# Olight M20 Warrior Premium R2 Review



## ernsanada (Sep 19, 2008)

Uses a Cree XR-E R2 WH Bin. The tint on this light has a slight yellow tint to it's beam. Reminds me of tint that the limited run of Dereelight's R2 Bins had.

3 level light goes from low, medium, high then strobe by turning the bezel back and forth. The UI is very easy to use. Whatever light level is used last the M20 will turn on to that level.

Uses a forward clickie.

The M20 can be be locked out by turning the rear tail cap 180 degrees counter-clockwise,

Can use 2 CR123's, 2 RCR123's, 1 18650 and 1 17670. There is a included Battery Magazine that will hold 2 CR123's to keep the batteries from rattling.

Has a low battery level. Will blink every 20 seconds when battery is low.

The Type III Hard Anodize finish is excellent. I give the grade A.

The fit is good smooth threads. I had an o-ring by the front of the battery tube get cut and the other one is also smashed on one side. I give the grade B.

This M20 came with an OP relfector.


Pros

Uses a forward clickie.

Very easy to use UI.

Finish is top notch.

Comes with a very nice holster and lanyard.

Can accept many different battery sizes.


Cons

Beam is slightly off centered.

Cut o-ring.


_______________________________


The lettering on the Olight M20 is done very good.






















Comes with an operators manual.






Comes with o-rings , rear rubber tailcap, lanyard, Battery Magazine, and holster.









































Uses a Cree XR-E R2 WH Bin.











Rear of the Cree module.






The Strike Bezel can be unscrewed off.






The reflector can be removed. Threads are on the back of the reflector.






Uses a forward clickie.






Inside view of the rear clickie.






Uses 2 o-rings on both sides of the battery tube.





















The M20 has a Tactical Ring.







_______________________________


Size comparsions.

Left to right, Olight M20 Premium R2, JetBeam Jet-Pro III IBS Q5, Fenix T1 Q5






Left to right, Olight M20 Premium R2, JetBeam Jet-Pro III IBS Q5, Fenix T1 Q5







________________________________


I also took lux readings of the lights shown above. These are the lux readings I got. I am using a Meterman LM631 Light Meter measured at 1 meter. I waited 2 minutes before taking the readings. I am using AW's Protected Black 18650 for the JetBeam Jet-Pro III IBS Q5. AW's Protected (Black) RCR123's and AW's Protected (Black) RCR123's for the Olight 20 Premium R2. AW's Protected (Black) RCR123's for the Fenix T1 Q5 which were all fully charged.


2 AW's Protected RCR123's

Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (High) - 8670 lux @ 1 meter

Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (Medium) - 3530 lux @ 1 meter

Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (Low) - 280 lux @ 1 meter


1 AW Protected 18650

Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (High) - 7610 lux @ 1 meter

Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (Medium) - 3450 lux @ 1 meter

Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (Low) - 290 lux @ 1 meter


JetBeam Jet-Pro III IBS Q5 OP 1 18650 - 7340 lux @ 1 meter

Fenix T1 Q5 OP - 5950 lux @ 1 meter


________________________________


Olight M20 Premium R2 OP @ 96"






JetBeam Jet-Pro III IBS Q5 OP 1 18650 @ 96"






Fenix T1 Q5 OP @ 96"






Left, Olight M20 Premium R2 OP. Right, JetBeam Jet-Pro III IBS Q5 OP 1 18650 @ 96"






Left, Olight M20 Premium R2 OP. Right, JetBeam Jet-Pro III IBS Q5 OP 1 18650 @ 96" Stepped down exposure






Left, Olight M20 Premium R2 OP. Right, Fenix T1 Q5 OP @ 96"






Left, Olight M20 Premium R2 OP. Right, Fenix T1 Q5 OP @ 96" Stepped down exposure







Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (High) @ 32'






Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (Medium) @ 32'






Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (Low) @ 32'






In real life the medium and low @ 32' looks a little brighter.


Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (High) @ 32'






JetBeam Jet-Pro III IBS Q5 OP 1 18650 @ 32'






Fenix T1 Q5 OP @ 32'







Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (High) @ 32' Stepped down exposure






JetBeam Jet-Pro III IBS Q5 OP 1 18650 @ 32' Stepped down exposure






Fenix T1 Q5 OP @ 32' Stepped down exposure


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## BMF (Sep 19, 2008)

Nice review :thumbsup:

Do you have SM reflector to compare?


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## sx250xl (Sep 19, 2008)

Nice review on an even nicer light. I also received mine via UPS today. I got the olive one, and couldn't be happier. First thing I did when I got it was unscrew everything and cleaned out the threads and orings with qtips. I then coated all the threads, orings, and electrical contact points (as well as the rim of the GITD switch cover for water tightness) with dielectric grease. I did this to aide in waterproofing it, as well as making all the threads nice and smooth. It worked wonders, and I did not notice any of the orings having any cuts or chips out of them. My last light was the 160lm LumaPower M1-T. This reminds me a lot of that light, but with all the features I wanted which it didn't have. My only complaints about the M20 are the internal springs, which I think should be of a more substantial thickness (gauge) and the orings (which also seem a little thin, altough there are replacements and they are doubled up in most places). Something I really like about lumapower lights is their very heavy and GITD oring selection. Other than those 2 things this light is impressive. I even gave into curiosity of it's durability and tossed it around a little to see if it could take some abuse. I took a shower with it, submerged it in the clean toilet and flushed 3 times, then I went into the kitchen (I live in a garden level apt, so cement floors underneath carpet/tile) and tossed it onto the floor with it on. From about waist height it dropped, It slammed pretty hard and kept running. I changed through it's modes and it worked fine. I then got a little more ballsy and tossed it almost to the ceiling and it slammed onto the floor so hard that I cringed, in fact I had to look away in order to let go of it. It still worked perfectly and not a scratch on it. I know some people love this light, but doubt it's durability. I can tell you.... it's durable. lol. Anyways, I apologize for the rant, but I am on percocet due to recent shoulder surgery and could care less for gramatical ettiquete right now. THankS!

As for light performance. I first had the OP reflector in and was shining it around my place, went out back by some trees and such, and was disappointed, so I put the SMO one in. It definitally throws further with a smaller hotspot. However, when I had traded out the OP for the SMO on my M1-T in order to get good enough throw, I lost a lot of flood. This thing throws and floods perfectly with the OP in place. I came to my senses and realized that this is a 6" long flashlight no bigger than a minimag and not a handheld HID system. I put the OP back in, and after thinking about it... It is very bright, and even with the OP has enough throw to be used in almost any situation I can imagine. With the OP, at about 50-75 meters objects are CLEARLY illuminated by a swath of light that I estimate to be about 10-15 feet in diameter. I have 20/10 vision and I am expecting to see things at 300 meters in pitch black night (get real... I know). Upon further testing, I am extremely happy with this product and it is going to make it hard for me to buy anything that comes out in the near future due to this thing being almost 100% on the money.

IMHO dedicated throw lights like the DBS and Spear are kind of stupid due to the spot being so small. In a real world situation, a light like the M20 buys the farm. I understand if your an old farmer who wants to count all his cattle from his porch without moving, maybe a DBS or spear would be good then, but.... who really does that?

P.S. Big thanks to Jeff at Battery Junction for the M20 and my new pocket light Olight T10 (which is very nice). Jeff also threw in a neat little keychain LED light. These things are only like 2 bucks, but still... it's a nice thought. Great customer service and great products from these guys. I don't think I would buy from anywhere else.

Those are my 2 cents.

Evan

Edit: Also have the R2 Premium. Now all I want is a light with the same form factor, but with 500 lumens instead of 250. With the way things are going, in about 2-3 years that should be a reality.


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## woodrow (Sep 19, 2008)

I always look forward to your reviews ernsanada... Great job as always and Thanks!


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## ginaz (Sep 19, 2008)

hmmm... good looking light. nice warmer tint too!


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## Monocrom (Sep 19, 2008)

Nice review as always. :thanks:

One thing I keep noticing whenever I see pics of the M20.... The checkering somehow comes out looking more aggressive in every pic than it actually is. Not a deal-breaker for many folks. But my M20 can sometimes get a bit slick in the hand.


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## RainerWahnsinn (Sep 19, 2008)

Thank you, very nice review, I am allways waiting for your reviews.


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## Scott Green (Sep 19, 2008)

Nice Review! Thanks for sharing


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## ernsanada (Sep 19, 2008)

BMF said:


> Nice review :thumbsup:
> 
> Do you have SM reflector to compare?



Sorry no SMO to compare.


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## ernsanada (Sep 19, 2008)

ginaz said:


> hmmm... good looking light. nice warmer tint too!



Thanks for pointing out the warmer tint.

The M20's beam did remind me a lot of when Deerelight came out with limited run R2's. Dereelight light also used the R2 WH's.


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## TONY M (Sep 19, 2008)

Another nice review!

A good light but I think the OP reflector could be more heavily textured as the beam still has a noticeable cree ring.


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## 1dash1 (Sep 19, 2008)

Good point about the warmer tint.

_I was expecting my M20 R2 to be cooler, it was a pleasant surprise to see that it was just the opposite._


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## etc (Sep 19, 2008)

How do you switch modes?

I understand you rotate the bezel, but in which direction, and how far? Does it click when you rotate it? Do you have to move it one way and then back to lock into a level?


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## ernsanada (Sep 19, 2008)

etc said:


> How do you switch modes?
> 
> I understand you rotate the bezel, but in which direction, and how far? Does it click when you rotate it? Do you have to move it one way and then back to lock into a level?




Rotate the bezel counter-clockwise about 1/8 of a turn. Then rotate back to it's original position.

It does not click.

Whatever level you leave the M20 on and then shut the light off the M20 will turn on to that same level.


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## torpeau (Sep 19, 2008)

etc said:


> How do you switch modes?
> 
> I understand you rotate the bezel, but in which direction, and how far? Does it click when you rotate it? Do you have to move it one way and then back to lock into a level?



About a quarter turn counter clockwise and then back moves it up a level -- no clicking. It remembers the last level.


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## etc (Sep 19, 2008)

It seems to me like rotating the bezel back and forth is a nuisance, if you have to move up several modes.
I am not sure I like that User Interface vs. Fenix's UI (Even though it has too many modes)

All else seems pretty interesting, even though myself I am most interested in 2xAA Olight.


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## Sector7 (Sep 19, 2008)

etc said:


> It seems to me like rotating the bezel back and forth is a nuisance, if you have to move up several modes.
> I am not sure I like that User Interface vs. Fenix's UI (Even though it has too many modes)
> 
> All else seems pretty interesting, even though myself I am most interested in 2xAA Olight.


 
if you don't like the M20 UI then you're not going to like Olight 2XAA. The T25-T works similar to the M20 while the T25-R has 5 light levels to twist through. For me its not so bad because I just lock in the light level I favor the most.


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## Chao (Sep 20, 2008)

Good job as always! and thanks for compared with Fenix T1, will you buy smooth reflector then?


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## Tohuwabohu (Sep 20, 2008)

Thanks for the review and the nice photos.

Is it possible that you mixed up the _Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (High) @ 32'_ and _JetBeam Jet-Pro III IBS Q5 OP 1 18650 @ 32'_ photos?



ernsanada said:


> Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (High) @ 32'
> 
> 
> 
> ...



In all your other photos the Olight has a greener tint than the other lights.
And, according to my own experience with the Olight M20 and the Jetbeam Jet-III Pro IBS OP, the Olight has a tighter hotspot than the Jetbeam.
That's what makes me think the _JetBeam Jet-Pro III IBS Q5 OP 1 18650 @ 32'_-photo shows the Olight M20 and not the Jetbeam.


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## cunglee (Sep 20, 2008)

Thanks good review..
Your review tell me almost everything that i was wondering.
But there is one thing i'd like to know.
That is whether the steel bezel of m20 fits to the forehead of jet3 pro.
If it is possible to chage the bezel each other, i will have the light what i really want to.


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## Tohuwabohu (Sep 20, 2008)

cunglee said:


> That is whether the steel bezel of m20 fits to the forehead of jet3 pro.
> If it is possible to chage the bezel each other, i will have the light what i really want to.



I just tried it - it doesn't fit.
The diameter of the thread of the ss-bezel is about 1mm to big for the Jet-III Pro IBS.

By the way, this is how I use the holster:




.
Flashlight bezel down, battery tube in one side pocket, Fenix P1 as backup at the other side.


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## ernsanada (Sep 20, 2008)

Tohuwabohu said:


> Thanks for the review and the nice photos.
> 
> Is it possible that you mixed up the _Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (High) @ 32'_ and _JetBeam Jet-Pro III IBS Q5 OP 1 18650 @ 32'_ photos?
> 
> ...



I just double checked and the photos are correct.

If you check my photo sequence of the 3 shots at 32' by right clicking and checking properties, check the 3 sets of photos of the M20 in high, medium then low. I shot the first sequence with #39 being high followed by #40 medium then #41 low.


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## powernoodle (Sep 20, 2008)

I just received the Q5 version, and am happily surprised how throwy it is even with the LOP reflector. The user interface (head twisty) works well and I like having the strobe (missing on the similar Fenixes). And its ability to eat an 18650 is great. Not much of anything to dislike on this one.


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## Monocrom (Sep 20, 2008)

Tohuwabohu said:


> By the way, this is how I use the holster:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Nice! 

Is the P1 a tight fit, loose fit, or just right?


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## Tohuwabohu (Sep 20, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> Nice!
> 
> Is the P1 a tight fit, loose fit, or just right?



The KD buckle V4 is to thin, the Nitecore EX10 to thick but the Fenix P1 is just right.
It is a bit short but you can easily push it up from the bottom and then pull it out.


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## Zefiryn (Sep 20, 2008)

Erns,

Would You be so kind and add 18650 lux readings???

Thanx,


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## shomie911 (Sep 20, 2008)

Tohuwabohu said:


> The KD buckle V4 is to thin, the Nitecore EX10 to thick but the Fenix P1 is just right.
> It is a bit short but you can easily push it up from the bottom and then pull it out.



I find the KD Buckle V5 is a perfect fit on mine.


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## Burgess (Sep 20, 2008)

Thank you, ernsanada, for yet another fine review !


:thumbsup:
_


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## ernsanada (Sep 20, 2008)

Zefiryn said:


> Erns,
> 
> Would You be so kind and add 18650 lux readings???
> 
> Thanx,




2 AW's Protected RCR123's

Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (High) - 8670 lux @ 1 meter

Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (Medium) - 3530 lux @ 1 meter

Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (Low) - 280 lux @ 1 meter


1 AW Protected 18650

Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (High) - 7610 lux @ 1 meter

Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (Medium) - 3450 lux @ 1 meter

Olight M20 Premium R2 OP (Low) - 290 lux @ 1 meter


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## cunglee (Sep 20, 2008)

Tohuwabohu said:


> I just tried it - it doesn't fit.
> The diameter of the thread of the ss-bezel is about 1mm to big for the Jet-III Pro IBS.
> 
> By the way, this is how I use the holster:
> ...


 


Thanks Tohuwabohu ..!
You save my time and money!
I was trying to buy both m20 and jet3 pro only to change the head bezel.


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## Monocrom (Sep 21, 2008)

Tohuwabohu said:


> The KD buckle V4 is to thin, the Nitecore EX10 to thick but the Fenix P1 is just right.
> It is a bit short but you can easily push it up from the bottom and then pull it out.


 
Excellent news!

:thanks:


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## radu1976 (Sep 21, 2008)

Great review Ernie and wonderful pics - as usually -





Have you done a complete run with RCR123s ? 
I am wondering which would be the runtime on those or on primaries...
I hope there's a flat regulation on RCR123s at least as with 18650s the light dropped to about 70-75% from its initial output after 2:30hrs , not too bad in fact !
As far as I am concern that and the lack of the replacement ring for the grip ring are the factors which holding me to buy the light - yet ! I might still do it as it throws awesome and it looks amazing !


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## etc (Sep 22, 2008)

Sector7 said:


> if you don't like the M20 UI then you're not going to like Olight 2XAA. The T25-T works similar to the M20 while the T25-R has 5 light levels to twist through. For me its not so bad because I just lock in the light level I favor the most.



I might just have to learn to like it.


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## ernsanada (Sep 25, 2008)

A very short demonstration of Olight M20 Warrior Premium the User's Interface.

Olight M20 Warrior Premium User's Interface


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## crazee horse (Sep 25, 2008)

im thinking of getting this torch t go with my fenix tk10. the only thing that puts me off is the very slow strobe and the clip. who the hell wants a sodding clip on there torch? :sick2:
also where is the cheapest place in the uk............. i still may get one lol


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## shomie911 (Sep 25, 2008)

crazee horse said:


> im thinking of getting this torch t go with my fenix tk10. the only thing that puts me off is the very slow strobe and the clip. who the hell wants a sodding clip on there torch? :sick2:



Slow strobe? It's an extremely fast strobe, faster than my Gladius. It works better than the Gladius strobe too, thanks the increased output.

The clip works great and is very sturdy.


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## crazee horse (Sep 25, 2008)

shomie911 said:


> Slow strobe? It's an extremely fast strobe, faster than my Gladius. It works better than the Gladius strobe too, thanks the increased output.
> 
> The clip works great and is very sturdy.


 
i just saw a clip on youtube ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcHTJqYm0N8 ) and wasnt that impressed. looked quite slow, i"ll have another look! whered you get yours?


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## shomie911 (Sep 25, 2008)

crazee horse said:


> i just saw a clip on youtube and wasnt that impressed. looked quite slow, i"ll have another look! whered you get yours?



Cameras don't have the same "refresh rate" as our eyes. The camera can't capture what the strobe actually looks like in real life. Some cameras can capture strobes correctly but most don't.

I got mine through Battery Junction.


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## crazee horse (Sep 25, 2008)

thanks for the reply, i never knew that, and it was putting me off! now to justify it to my partner.................


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## shomie911 (Sep 25, 2008)

crazee horse said:


> thanks for the reply, i never knew that, and it was putting me off! now to justify it to my partner.................



Just show them a custom $700 flashlight and say that you want it for a week or two and then "compromise" with them and say your going to get a $100 flashlight instead. :twothumbs


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## MoreLumens4Me (Sep 25, 2008)

Thanks for the video, I had been waiting for someone to put one on, now I can't wait until I see one showing beam shots


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## Burgess (Sep 26, 2008)

Yep, it's easily removable.


Without tools.


Without scratching or damaging anything.


No need to put up with the clip, if you don't wanna'.



And, if you later change yer' mind,
it easily snaps back on. (very securely)


Very nice design. :thumbsup:



In fact, my ONLY complaint about that clip . . . .


I prefer it to be a Bezel-*Up* carry.


Since it's not, i simply removed it.


This is a *Very* nice flashlight !

:twothumbs

_


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## Monocrom (Sep 26, 2008)

crazee horse said:


> im thinking of getting this torch t go with my fenix tk10. the only thing that puts me off is the very slow strobe and the clip. who the hell wants a sodding clip on there torch? :sick2:
> also where is the cheapest place in the uk............. i still may get one lol


 
I no longer buy 2xCR123 lights, unless they come with a pocket clip. Just won't do it. Clip-carry is just so much more comfortable, compared to carrying a light on a belt; in a holster. 

Battery Junction is likely your best bet for an M20, if you want one right away. This light is still on pre-order status at some other online shops. Seems Matt scored a huge shipment from Olight.


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## 1996alnl (Oct 21, 2008)

I had a choice between the Fenix TK11 or the M20 after reading this review i decided to get one and all i can say is wow! What a powerful light,the brightest in my collection i put it up against my Surefire E2DL (which can compete pretty good with this light) and it has a tighter brighter beam.
Don't care too much for the tactical ring,i find it uncomfortable to hold.I also removed the strike bezel now the light is a bit smaller and pretty good for EDC

Take care.


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## n1ch0 (Oct 28, 2008)

shomie911 said:


> Slow strobe? It's an extremely fast strobe, faster than my Gladius. It works better than the Gladius strobe too, thanks the increased output.
> 
> The clip works great and is very sturdy.



Shomie, hows the size compared to gladius? I'm planning on getting a blackhawk hard holster (Niteops holster iirc) and wondering if it will fit this light...

Thanks
Nicholas


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## MarkIAlbert (Oct 28, 2008)

ginaz said:


> hmmm... good looking light. nice warmer tint too!


 
Guys, I just received my M20 R2. While the review is dead on, there is one small adjustment I'd make: The 'warm' color is more a yellowish green than a yellow. When I received the light and fired it up, I thought that the light had a mis-binned LED. Looking at the picks in this review, I see that this is likely the case with all of the R2s - The 'WH' bin is actually a bit yellow-green. Not a huge issue, but not what I had expected with a 'White' bin.


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## 4Pigs (Oct 28, 2008)

Tohuwabohu said:


> I just tried it - it doesn't fit.
> The diameter of the thread of the ss-bezel is about 1mm to big for the Jet-III Pro IBS.
> 
> By the way, this is how I use the holster:
> ...



Same here, pouch fits JetBeam III Military too (bezel down).


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## picard (Oct 28, 2008)

Tohuwabohu said:


> I just tried it - it doesn't fit.
> The diameter of the thread of the ss-bezel is about 1mm to big for the Jet-III Pro IBS.
> 
> By the way, this is how I use the holster:
> ...



where did you buy the holster?


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## picard (Oct 28, 2008)

Tohuwabohu said:


> I just tried it - it doesn't fit.
> The diameter of the thread of the ss-bezel is about 1mm to big for the Jet-III Pro IBS.
> 
> By the way, this is how I use the holster:
> ...



where did you buy the holster?


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## 4Pigs (Oct 28, 2008)

I didn't buy it......its from my dad's M20 package


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## 1996alnl (Oct 28, 2008)

MarkIAlbert said:


> Guys, I just received my M20 R2. While the review is dead on, there is one small adjustment I'd make: The 'warm' color is more a yellowish green than a yellow. When I received the light and fired it up, I thought that the light had a mis-binned LED. Looking at the picks in this review, I see that this is likely the case with all of the R2s - The 'WH' bin is actually a bit yellow-green. Not a huge issue, but not what I had expected with a 'White' bin.


 
Hmm that's strange,mine seems pretty white on high.Now my E2DL seems a bit on the yellowish green side.The tints don't really bother me though.

Take care.


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## Monocrom (Oct 29, 2008)

My M20 R2 is bright white.


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## phantom23 (Oct 29, 2008)

My is slightly yellowish, especially on lower modes.


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## divine (Oct 29, 2008)

I got an olive M20 Premium from Batteryjunction, the tint is yellowish. Looks like the WH pictures I've seen.

I got a black M20 Premium from 4sevens, the tint is much whiter. It looks very close to my WC lights.

I actually placed the 4sevens order first, got in on the first 10 on the batteryjunction contest. I didn't want to cancel my 4sevens order because I didn't win the 100 CR123 batteries, and figured that $75 average per light was reasonable. :thinking:

I really haven't seen anyone post about a difference between the lights from the two different dealers or a difference between the different colored lights... and maybe that's because no one else actually bought a light from both dealers or one of each color!


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## MiniLux (Oct 29, 2008)

divine said:


> I got an olive M20 Premium from Batteryjunction, the tint is yellowish. Looks like the WH pictures I've seen.
> 
> I got a black M20 Premium from 4sevens, the tint is much whiter. It looks very close to my WC lights.


 
Exactly the same for me: an olive M20 from Batteryjunction with yellowish tint, a black M20 from 4Sevens with much whiter tint.

Interesting :thinking:

MiniLux


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## woodrow (Oct 29, 2008)

Burgess said:


> Yep, it's easily removable.
> 
> 
> Without tools.
> ...


 
I don't know.... I thought the Fenix T1's clip came off easily enough....just a few bends back and forth...and snap! Putting it back did take a little bit of work though






I am still really happy with my M20, and like the beam with the smooth reflector. I have noticed that the beam looks whiter (less green) on 2x123a's than on a 18650...even when pretty fresh.


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## daimleramg (Oct 29, 2008)

ernsanada said:


> Cons
> 
> Beam is slightly off centered.


 

Dont know if you already realized the cree die itself is off centered not the whole LED


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## woodrow (Oct 30, 2008)

daimleramg said:


> Dont know if you already realized the cree die itself is off centered not the whole LED


 
I wondered if that was the case....mine is a little off too....but I like it enough that it is not a super big deal....I just chucked it up to the R2 as well.


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## 1996alnl (Oct 30, 2008)

I think the manufacturers should be held accountable.
I would tolerate this kind of quality in cheaper off the shelf lights,but not expensive lights which are locked up behind fancy glass display cases.
I've been pretty fortunate with my lights,all Surefires exept my new Olight M2 Premium.
If someone goes out and pays $150,000 for an automobile and one of the panels is misaligned i'm sure they wouldn't tolerate it (chances are the car wouldn't leave the assembly plant) ,but if it were a $25,000 car it wouldn't really be a big deal.

Just my opinion,not trying to offend anyone.

Take care


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## Xak (Oct 30, 2008)

I'm considering the non-R2 version. It will be a nice white tint and only 20 lumens less (probably not noticable). Not so sure I like the UI, though.

Decisions, decisions.


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## Monocrom (Oct 30, 2008)

Xak said:


> I'm considering the non-R2 version. It will be a nice white tint and only 20 lumens less (probably not noticable). Not so sure I like the UI, though.
> 
> Decisions, decisions.


 
The UI doesn't get in the way. You just set the light to turn on in which ever mode you prefer, before heading out the door. Then just use it like a normal forward clickie light.


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## Xak (Oct 31, 2008)

Hmmm. I would love to see a comparison between the Q5 WC bin and the R2 bin. I want a snowball white beam, if there is a hint of any color at all I could deal with a hint of blue. 

Green would be terrible. Is it really that much brighter? How noticeable is the green tint?


----------



## 1996alnl (Oct 31, 2008)

Xak said:


> Hmmm. I would love to see a comparison between the Q5 WC bin and the R2 bin. I want a snowball white beam, if there is a hint of any color at all I could deal with a hint of blue.
> 
> Green would be terrible. Is it really that much brighter? How noticeable is the green tint?


 
I have the R2 and on low and medium it has a noticably green tint but on high the beam looks very white to me.Much whiter than my E2DL's hot spot.
This sucker can throw,i'd say it's about two thirds of the DBS's throw.

Take care


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## woodrow (Nov 1, 2008)

Xak said:


> Hmmm. I would love to see a comparison between the Q5 WC bin and the R2 bin. I want a snowball white beam, if there is a hint of any color at all I could deal with a hint of blue.
> 
> Green would be terrible. Is it really that much brighter? How noticeable is the green tint?


 

I have the R2 version...so I cannot be sure, but I doubt it. The Fenxi T1 (acording to Selfbuilt's ceiling bounce tests) is just about (no way to notice with the human eye) as bright overall as the M20 R2. Also, I remember reading a number of DBS comparisons with R2 and Q5 leds with minimal differences. I would try the Q5 if you like white to cool white beams.


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## MarkIAlbert (Nov 8, 2008)

Xak said:


> Hmmm. I would love to see a comparison between the Q5 WC bin and the R2 bin. I want a snowball white beam, if there is a hint of any color at all I could deal with a hint of blue.
> 
> Green would be terrible. Is it really that much brighter? How noticeable is the green tint?



On mine, it's passable, but just so. Candidly, for the price, I would have expected better bin control. It's one thing to have all of the lights put out a particular color, another for one light to be white, another yellow, another green.

I personally would have preferred a less green R2 (I know they are available. I have a few Milky R2 mods and a couple of R2s from Allen at DereeLight that are quite neutral).

I came pretty close to RMA'ing the light but decided one 'warm' light in my collection would be fine. Just for giggles, I fired up a few of my HID lights to consider them with respect to color. Their color variations were by and large much more noticeable than the yellow green 'hew' of the R2 in the Warrior.

That being said "Matt, If you have any Warrior R2's that are in the 4000-5000 degree range, I'd be happy to do a swap..."

With regard to the LED being a bit off-center, yes, mine has that picadillo as well and can be seen across the wall.

All in all, this light has a lot of things going for it with regard to ergonomic design, utility, fit and finish, but has two noticeable flaws that really need to be addressed at the manufacturing plant - Bin control and LED position.


----------



## MarkIAlbert (Nov 8, 2008)

woodrow said:


> I have the R2 version...so I cannot be sure, but I doubt it. The Fenxi T1 (acording to Selfbuilt's ceiling bounce tests) is just about (no way to notice with the human eye) as bright overall as the M20 R2. Also, I remember reading a number of DBS comparisons with R2 and Q5 leds with minimal differences. I would try the Q5 if you like white to cool white beams.



As far as the DBS goes, rumor has it that the next DBS could be packing an MC-E


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## MarkIAlbert (Nov 8, 2008)

Xak said:


> Hmmm. I would love to see a comparison between the Q5 WC bin and the R2 bin. I want a snowball white beam, if there is a hint of any color at all I could deal with a hint of blue.
> 
> Green would be terrible. Is it really that much brighter? How noticeable is the green tint?



Given a few discussions I have had, it seems that the higher availability of the Q5s has made it easier for manufacturers to be 'picky' about which bin they use. R2s can get quite white, provided you are lucky enough to get one from the right bin.


----------



## MarkIAlbert (Nov 8, 2008)

Xak said:


> I'm considering the non-R2 version. It will be a nice white tint and only 20 lumens less (probably not noticable). Not so sure I like the UI, though.
> 
> Decisions, decisions.



Interesting. I think the UI is one of the strong points. Most of my lights have a forward clicky that has to be clicked numerous times to get the light doing what you want. While I would probably have preferred a U2 type interface, this one seems to work pretty well - you don't inadvertantly change the mode because you clicked temporarily or too fast.


----------



## phantom23 (Nov 8, 2008)

MarkIAlbert said:


> As far as the DBS goes, rumor has it that the next DBS could be packing an MC-E



I'm wondering why. MC-E is more flooder than P7...



MarkIAlbert said:


> With regard to the LED being a bit off-center, yes, mine has that picadillo as well and can be seen across the wall.
> All in all, this light has a lot of things going for it with regard to ergonomic design, utility, fit and finish, but has two noticeable flaws that really need to be addressed at the manufacturing plant - Bin control and LED position.



Off center emitter or die inside? If emitter it's rare - reflector is screwed in in one steady position. But there was many complaints about off-centered parts inside LED and that's Cree's fault. 
My M20 has nice slightly yellowish tint with no green hue:
M20 - VB-16 SWO






M20 - RF Spear


----------



## MarkIAlbert (Nov 8, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> I'm wondering why. MC-E is more flooder than P7...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Agreed, the issue is not with the assembly of the LED to the mirror, but the position of the die behind the lens. While that may not be Olight's fault, at the end of the day, it is their light. If their supplier is sending them quirky parts, they should work it out with the supplier...

As far as the color goes, the above pictures are dead on for what I see against my white wall. Yellow vs. Yellow Green? who's to say ... It's a warm light. 

As far as the MC-E goes, I fired off a note to Allen inquiring about an MC-E pill. I wanted a 'wall of light' for one of my CL1s and for a SF M2. I also asked if he had any plans to do a version of the DB2 with an MC-E. He said he is looking into MC-E drivers and would then look into implementation options once the power supply issue was resolved. Just a guess, but I'm thinking the MC-E over P7 may be more related to power consumption/lumen than throw vs flood...

To your point about flood vs. throw, neither the P7 nor the MC-E are designed for throw, but they can thow quite well, with the right mirror and/or lens.

This Halloween, I took my P7 Mag and my R2 Dereelight trick or treating. The P7 was a lot floodier. It had a bigger hot spot. It also out threw the R2 CL1. Net net, the P7 mag lit up a house a yard, the driveway and the road, while the CL1V4 lit up the front door. Sometimes you want a tight beam. Sometimes you want that tight beam plus flood. The P7 Mag cleared a well lit path for the whole clan stomping down the street. The light screamed "Make a hole. Make it wide" It also had enough throw that I could light up my kids a block away. With all the toys in my light collection. That P7 mag is one of the most useful.

But the P7 mag weighs a ton. I'm hoping that A DBS with an MC-E should be able to yield a similar result in a much smaller, lighter package. That works for me. Lot's of flood augmented by a reasonably tight, long-throwing beam.


----------



## phantom23 (Nov 9, 2008)

DBS with MC-E won't behave like P7 Mag. Mags reflector is great thrower even with P7. P7 installed in DBS gives bright but still quite floody beam. With MC-E it's going to be even worse.


----------



## MarkIAlbert (Nov 9, 2008)

I imagine Alan would need to address that... or limit the MC-E to P-60 pills.


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## EngrPaul (Nov 9, 2008)

daimleramg said:


> Dont know if you already realized the cree die itself is off centered not the whole LED


 
Mine's much worse than his


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## phantom23 (Nov 9, 2008)

It doesn't look good. Try the warranty service.


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## EngrPaul (Nov 9, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> It doesn't look good. Try the warranty service.


 
I've returned it for a refund, may come back and try again sometime in the future.


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## Xak (Nov 10, 2008)

Hmmm. I'm gonna look into the Deerlight CL1H v4 and the EagleTac T10C2. Have heard too many complaints so far about the M20. Would love to be able to compare some beamshots of all 3.


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## 1996alnl (Nov 10, 2008)

My M20 has a very nice beam with the OP reflecter, but with the smooth one the beam is smaller and tighter with a shadowy ring around it.
It certainly looks like it would throw farther with the smooth reflecter.
This light is rated to throw a beam 250m (832ft.) according to the descrition on the box.
Does anyone know if it's with the OP reflecter,it's what came with the light.The smooth one is an accessory.

Take care


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## esskay (Nov 18, 2008)

Has anyone measured how many amps the M20 draws? Thanks.


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## Burgess (Nov 18, 2008)

Perhaps i can help answer this one.



On an AW 18650 protected cell, at full charge (4.2 volts),


i recorded the following measurements:


Low 24 mA current

Medium 220 mA

High This was more difficult. Perhaps about 750 mA.


Hope this is helpful.

_


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## KiwiMark (Nov 19, 2008)

esskay said:


> Has anyone measured how many amps the M20 draws? Thanks.



Surely you could calculate the approximate amp draw based on the battery capacity and resulting runtime. i.e. if a 2000mAh battery can run the light on high for a hour and a half then that would suggest the average current draw was somewhere in the region of 1.2amps (give or take - you would need to calculate the exact capacity at a similar current draw to get an accurate value).


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## esskay (Nov 19, 2008)

Thanks guys. My knowledge of volts/amps/resistance/etc is very rusty!!

I have one of these lights inbound and was thinking about which primaries might be well suited to it.


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## druidmars (Nov 29, 2008)

Hello fellow users of the CPF. This is my first post! I usually like to read posts thoroughly (and even several times) because they normally answer my questions.
If anyone has the patience to respond to my post it will be deeply appreciated as I am torn between two lights. Let me quickly explain my situation (and I hope it's ok to post my experience in this thread; or maybe I should have created a new thread? I will see from the replies I get):
I have a 10year-old Maglite, which takes 6D cells. It always worked wonders but it's heavy and long and I believe that lights have evolved a lot since then. Therefore I decided that I want a new, smaller light, still powerful (namely throw, although some spill can always come in handy) and regulated. After perusing the forum (which btw is superb) I have a final with these two contestants: Olight M20 Premium R2 and the Eagletac T10C2.
From my point of view, acquired from reading the forums rather than from experience, this is how I see the face to face:

M20 pros 
- better throw (how much better can anyone say?)
- longer runtimes
- three output levels
- takes 18650

M20 cons
- lots of problems with off die or emitter
- more expensive
- some reported problems with o-rings, flickering light as a low power indicator and almost useless warranty (although I think the two last have been or are on the verge of being corrected)

T10C2 pros
- good throw (how good compared to M20?), very good spill and beautiful bright beam
- half the price
- tailstands

T10C2 cons
- couldn't find out about the warranty
- no 18650

I searched the forum for a comparison between both but found none. Do anyone have both lights? What's your thoughts?
Thank you all very much


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## Jeffa (Nov 30, 2008)

I am very new to this forum and find it so informative that this has been the first place that I have come for many days now. 

The efforts by members are astounding and I have made four purchases all due to the reviews performed here. I also realize that I only need a couple flashlights for my job but find myself looking for that "holy grail' of lights. Heck I have even thrown away all of my old Christmas tree incandescent lights for LED's.

Now to the question at hand. One of the lights that I did purchase is the M20 Premium R2. I am currently running it on a 18650 re-chargeable battery. It is approximately the same size as my TK-11 and my Gladius which I have two of and received a few years ago. 

I do not seem to have the same issues with it as others are having. I have no green color in the hue at any setting, the LED is not off center, and there is no flickering at low battery level. I guess this is because that feature has been eliminated.

Like the TK-11 and Gladius the "cigar" shaped finger grip or collar is too small in my opinion. However, I do like this feature and use it quite a bit for syringe style techniques. 

The light is easy to use, it is small and not cumbersome at all but I prefer my Gladius especially with the LED upgrade. I like being able to select my settings with the light in the off position but am not crazy about the TK-11 either because I do not like the indefinate loosening and tightening of the head. I find the TK-11 is not always exact especially under pressure.

All of these lights are very durable and well made.

If you have time and are not under pressure all of these lights are great. Off duty I do not need a strobe setting but do like variable settings from very low (Novatac low) to high.

On duty I need the same lows and highs but also require momentary on and off ie: Novatac setting #7 and I like the strobe but so far have only ever used it in training. Realistically I have never had the ability to turn to it but have only had enough time to shine the existing bright light into someones eyes.

For me all other emergency settings are useless SOS, slow strobe etc. I would just use my quick disorienting strobe if I had to signal someone. I am undecided as to low battery power indication but probably would like it.

I am extremely interested in the new Inova Inforce white, and the Surefire Invictucs or Optimus. I believe these two lights have the switch that rotates like my Gladius, although in a different location, to exact settings in advance of turning them on.

I would also like to know of any other lights similar to the Gladius.

A bright light with long runtime is important but I carry extra batteries and a spare flashlight anyway and the difference between my TK-11 and Olight are negligable. My Pelican 7060 (terminology) shines a better light beam at a distance for identification purposes (throw and also has good spill) than all of my others lights at this point and is vehicle friendly re-chargeable. I do have a Inova T4 but it doesn't have the hot spot of the pelican.

Right now my perfect combonation is my gladius and Pelican 7060. The Gladius does not have a long run time but for duty carry is perfect.

Hope this helps. Stay Safe. :thumbsup:


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## Burgess (Nov 30, 2008)

to Jeffa --


Welcome to CandlePowerForums !


:welcome:



Thank you for your comments and remarks.


Good Luck in yer' search for the perfect Flashlight.


_


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## Jeffa (Nov 30, 2008)

Thanks Burgess.

I re-read my response and see that I was all over the map and was a little confusing. Point is, is that I like all of the lights for brightness, durability, and finish, but I like simplicity with a few options thrown in.

You guys keep up the excellent reviews and I will keep learning. :twothumbs


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## divine (Dec 1, 2008)

Thujone said:


> To be fair your math is off a bit, it works out to be 0.833% Thats about 1 out of every 120. (Worst case using info given) .01% would be 1 in 10,000. I wouldnt have said anything but you were almost two orders of magnitude off


He forgot to multiply by 100 to make it percent. 0.0083 is <1%. Yes, that is off quite a bit. A factor of 100 is significant.


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## jdong (Dec 1, 2008)

MattK said:


> Geek.




Using a 1200 degrees of freedom t-distribution one can construct a 99.5% confidence interval in which less than 2.015% of the lights shipped would have an off-center die.... ;-)


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## MattK (Dec 1, 2008)




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## MarkIAlbert (Dec 22, 2008)

druidmars said:


> Thank you for your prompt reply MattK. At least now I am more convinced about the M20. I wonder if there is someone out there who can provide me with a real life experience of both



Druidmars,

I was one of the handful that had an off-axis emitter.

One of the reasons I like doing business with Battery Junction is that they stand behind their products. I called them up about the issues I had with the light and they asked me what I'd like to do (e.g. refund, credit, etc). I asked them to replace the head with one that was a little less warm and had a properly aligned emitter.

I sent back the M20 and about a week later, I had one that met my needs (nice tint, aligned emitter). I imagine someone there took the time to look at a few lights until they found one that I'd be happy with.

I could not have asked for more.


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## 1996alnl (Dec 23, 2008)

Nice.
That's first class service.
I know where i'll be making my next purchase


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## Tim B (Dec 25, 2008)

I just got this light and I have noticed that the brightest setting appears to be dimmer with an 18650 than it is with CR123A's. I am using Tenergy 2600 mAh 3.7V rechargeable 18650's. In fact the brightest setting is only very slightly brighter than the medium setting with this battery. With the 123's however, it is noticeable much brighter. Has anyone else made the same observation?


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## Kalvix (Dec 26, 2008)

My M20 doesn't seem to want to switch to hi mode. When switching from low to medium it switches normally, then when i try to switch it again the beam doesn't get any stronger (or weaker for that matter) then on the next switch it goes into strobe.
I'm wondering if it might be that my batteries are getting old. I am currently using CR123s (until i can get a 18650).
Anyone have any ideas or ever encounter this as a problem?

update: purchased new batteries and answered my question =)


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## ken_p1972 (Dec 28, 2008)

Anyone have's both the TK11 R2 and the M20 Warrior R2? and whats better of both


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## Mikellen (Mar 12, 2009)

Please forgive me if this question has been asked already, but is there an aftermarket diffuser that will fit on the M20 Warrior? I really like this flashlight, its just I would like to have the beam to be a little more floody.
Any recommendations?

Thanks.


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## ernsanada (Mar 13, 2009)

I purchased a SMO for the M20.


Lux reading.

Olight M20 R2 18650 SMO (high) - 8,380 lux @ 1 meter

Olight M20 Premium R2 18650 OP (high) - 7610 lux @ 1 meter


Beam shots were done with AW's Protected 18650.



Olight M20 Premium R2 OP @ 146' or 44.5 meters







Olight M20 Premium R2 SMO @ 146' or 44.5 meters


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## MattK (Mar 14, 2009)

Did you test lux with CR or RCR? Assuming the same ~10% increase?


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## ernsanada (Mar 14, 2009)

I just used !8650's for the lux measurements and the above beam shots. 

When I get some time I can check it with some RCR123's.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Mar 14, 2009)

Bottom of Page 1 here.

Another GREAT review Em! I could be forced to desire one of these for the R2 WH!

The UI leaves me slightly cool, but my Fenix TK10 has low and high by twisting bezel so it wouldn't be a deal breaker.

Funds now could VERY WELL be a deal breaker!


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## ernsanada (Mar 14, 2009)

Added the lux measurements and beam shot for AW's Black Protected RCR123's.



Olight M20 R2 SMO 2RCR123's (high) - 9,220 lux @ 1 meter

Olight M20 R2 SMO 18650 (high) - 8,380 lux @ 1 meter

Olight M20 Premium R2 OP 18650 (high) - 7610 lux @ 1 meter



Olight M20 Premium R2 SMO 18650 @ 146' or 44.5 meters






Olight M20 R2 SMO 2RCR123's @ 146' or 44.5 meters


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Mar 15, 2009)

2xRCR SEEMS to make a noticeable difference!

I tend to be an 18650 guy though!

It's all good, and I WANT one of these M20s!!!!


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## sardian (Mar 15, 2009)

I like the M20 a lot myself. It's a fun light to play with and offering two different reflectors is a big plus (although I like the OP over the SMO). I do notice my M20 is brighter with 2 RCR's than with an 18650, but I tend to use the 18650 for longer run time.

Here are a few beam shots I took last night messing around while it was raining. Nothing scientific, just taken for fun.

First is the M20, 2nd is the TK11, and then in the final shot the TK11 is on left/M20 on right. All of the streaks are the rain. I would guess the trees are about 30 to 40 yards away.


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## Kevin1322 (Mar 27, 2009)

I got mine about a month ago and absolutely love it! :twothumbs

I have both reflectors but use the SMO because of the extra throw and tight hot spot. I play around with it all the time, but I really can't wait to get up to the mountains with it. It's pretty close to the same size as the SF 6P, but the bezel and cigar ring make it a little bit broader. No question it is the best flashlight I have ever had, including my SF. Then again, I've never paid that much for one. Actually, I guess I should clarify. Everyone knows SF makes a top notch product, but even with my R2 5 mode drop in, I still like my Olight M20 better.


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## StrictlyAmateur (Mar 30, 2009)

I just ordered one from Battery Junction and I can't wait.

Thanks for the great in-depth review.:thumbsup:


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## Burgess (Mar 30, 2009)

Hope you enjoy yours as much as i like mine. 

:thumbsup:


Please let us know what you think of it.



Oh, and Welcome to CandlePowerForums !


:welcome:


You're starting off with a *Great* flashlight !


_


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## jimmiceman (Apr 2, 2009)

COuld someone post pics of the M20 Warrior and the M20 Warrior R2 beams side by side for comparisions? Thanks!


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## shankster (Apr 13, 2009)

Newb here.....been lurking for a couple of weeks now.Great site and people with knowledge about lights. I want one of these lights. I have some questions as I don't know alot about the choices of battery's. Would you guys recommend the 18650 or the CR123 battery's for this light ?
Thank you for your replies and suggestions !


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## 1996alnl (Apr 13, 2009)

shankster said:


> Newb here.....been lurking for a couple of weeks now.Great site and people with knowledge about lights. I want one of these lights. I have some questions as I don't know alot about the choices of battery's. Would you guys recommend the 18650 or the CR123 battery's for this light ?
> Thank you for your replies and suggestions !


 
I've used a 18650 cell in mine it lasts a lonng time..almost three hours but it isn't regulated.
I've tried AW RCR123's in it and it's insanely bright for one hour and ten min. and it's regulated.
The choice is yours ,there's no right or wrong.


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## shankster (Apr 14, 2009)

Thank you 1996 ! I appreciate your help.


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## 1996alnl (Apr 14, 2009)

shankster said:


> Thank you 1996 ! I appreciate your help.


 
Your welcome.

What i find impressive about this light,besides it's throw capability is how efficient it is.
Almost all my RCR123 lights run for about 30-45 min.
This one surpasses 1hr and it's brighter.


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## shankster (Apr 14, 2009)

Thats why I came here looking for answers. I knew someone would help. Thanks again.


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## De-Lux (Apr 14, 2009)

> I've tried AW RCR123's in it and it's insanely bright for one hour and ten min.



How do your AW RCR123a's fit in the magazine. My AW's fit very tight and they are a bit too long to where the cap doesn't screw down all the way. Furthermore the light has a tendency to flicker ON and OFF (as though there is a bad connection) when using AW protected cells with and without the use of the magazine. I do not experience this with primary CR123's. Have you experienced this with your M-20. Thanks in advanced.


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## gunga (Jun 6, 2009)

Does anyone know of a way to remove the low battery detect feature? Will Olight exchange the light engine or anything like that?


The M20 is a very nice light!


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## 1996alnl (Jun 6, 2009)

gunga said:


> Does anyone know of a way to remove the low battery detect feature? Will Olight exchange the light engine or anything like that?
> 
> 
> The M20 is a very nice light!


 
Why would you want it removed?


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## Burgess (Jun 6, 2009)

Hello, Gunga --

:wave:


Yes, indeed, Olight (or their dealers) will gladly

replace any M20 flashlight which (still) has the infamous

"Low-Battery-Blink" feature. :hairpull:




This "feature" was only in the First Production Run of M20's.

When folks (like me) complained that even "almost new" batteries

are quickly going into "Low-Battery-Blink" warning mode,

Olight promptly updated the programming, to correct this problem.

( Big *Thank You* to Olight, for doing this ! ) :goodjob::thanks:




Apparently, Gunga, you must have one of the Original Models.



BTW, i really Love my New, Improved version.

:kiss:



Hope this helps.

_


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## gunga (Jun 8, 2009)

Thanks Burgess.

Yes, this one is one of the earlier ones.

I do like it a lot. Fenix store is unable to do much without a pruchase order (understandable) even tho I know it was purchased there (got it in a trade).

Olight website is down! I tried emailing them a few times last week, but they seem to have exceeded quota and I can't reach them!




EDIT: scratch that, website just came back up with new email address...


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## ARA (Jun 24, 2009)

Just recently bit the flashlight bug, credits to CPF for increasing my knowledge and interest. I recently got the M20 warrior premium and am really impressed with its output, build quality and size (its smaller than my AA Led Minimag). A little pricey compared to similar featured light but its got a great combination of features.


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## K_2828 (Jun 27, 2009)

hey Burgess!
is that means the Olight M20 R2 warrior now has no "low-battery-blink" problem? does it mean they completely remove the "low-battery-blink"? because i planning to get one!


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## gunga (Jun 27, 2009)

K_2828 said:


> hey Burgess!
> is that means the Olight M20 R2 warrior now has no "low-battery-blink" problem? does it mean they completely remove the "low-battery-blink"? because i planning to get one!


 

Yes, the latest ones have this "feature" removed.


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## Xak (Jun 27, 2009)

De-Lux said:


> How do your AW RCR123a's fit in the magazine. My AW's fit very tight and they are a bit too long to where the cap doesn't screw down all the way. Furthermore the light has a tendency to flicker ON and OFF (as though there is a bad connection) when using AW protected cells with and without the use of the magazine. I do not experience this with primary CR123's. Have you experienced this with your M-20. Thanks in advanced.



I don't think you should use the battery magazine with rechargeable cells, they don't fit right, which is why you are probably getting flicker. 2 RCR's fit just fine w/o the magazine and don't really rattle unless you shake the light like you are trying to choke someone to death, and even then it is a muffled sound. What the magazines are great for is having CR123 primaries loaded in them as back-up for when your rechargeable cells die. They are easy to load, even in the dark, due to the tab on the positive end.
I mounted a, M20 on my rifle with pressure switch and everything. They really thought of everything when they designed this as a tactical light. I loved the light so much I left it on my rifle and bought another one to carry. Got the WD tint for both, because I love the cool tint's better for my applications (mostly urban). I would choose the WH tint for the woods, though.


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## ARA (Jun 28, 2009)

The new ones do not have the blinking low battery indicator. They have also removed the mention of this feature from the user manual. 

They also include an extra ring to cover the cigar ring threads incase you choose not to use it. 

Just check the box before purchasing, if possible


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## bradw177 (Jul 19, 2009)

can anyone tell me if this light can fit into a surefire holster? pretty much the only holster allowed by regs on our belts and i am not overly impressed w/ sf. but want something comparable in size and functions.


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## harkamus (Jul 21, 2009)

Stupid question, but where are Olights manufactured in? I'm really interested in the Olight M20 warrior (or whichever model of the M20 comes in aluminum), and was curious as to the country of origin.


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## Igor Porto (Jul 21, 2009)

Olights are made in China, but with extreme care and quality. Just like a lot of other great brands like JetBeam, Fenix, NiteCore, Darktort, Eagletac, Edgetac (which makes Nitecore and Darktort), Dereelight, Tiablo and many others.


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## adept1 (Jul 21, 2009)

I recently sent my M20 back to 4sevens for the second time.

The first time it was the low battery flicker, except it would happen with fresh batteries.

The second time it was for unreliable mode switching and the head contact spring coming unsoldered.

I've also decided I'm not a big fan of the twist action for mode setting. That said, it's got a great fit & finish, feels nice in the hand, and has a very nice beam.


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## KiwiMark (Jul 21, 2009)

adept1 said:


> I've also decided I'm not a big fan of the twist action for mode setting.



For a tactical torch the twist action is a huge advantage. When you push the button the light comes on - it is a simple forward clicky switch and works much easier than a switch that not only turns a torch on but also switches modes. You could use the forward clicky switch for signalling without the torch changing modes.
I kinda like the idea of separating the on/off mechanism from the mode switching mechanism. Click to turn on and twist to change modes seems to work well for this.

But if you don't like this then there are many other torches with a variety of UIs available.


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## palomino77 (Sep 7, 2009)

I can't decide between the M20 and jetbeam military, can some one help

I like M20 more, but how tough is the M20? 

Here is a link of the jetbeam http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82JLxaRvAAQ


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## KiwiMark (Sep 7, 2009)

palomino77 said:


> I can't decide between the M20 and jetbeam military, can some one help
> 
> I like M20 more, but how tough is the M20?



I own both - I can't see either having any trouble with normal use & abuse. If you like the M20 more than I don't think you will regret buying one.


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## palomino77 (Sep 9, 2009)

Thanks,,, What would you suggest? with the 500 lumen titanium out,, Do you think there is a more powerful M20 in the making I should wait for??​


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## Billy Ram (Oct 14, 2009)

Well I've had my M20 Worrior premium for about a year now and can give it a good report. Shortly after putting it in service I had a faulty switch that I had to replace. "A good reason for a back up light." I go nowhere without having more than one light. No problem I sent a email to Battery Junction and was quickly answered. I had a new switch in hand shortly. So far this light has seen quite a bit of use reason being it's very bright, rugged and easy to use. I'm not too easy on lights like this and bought it to use. I take better care of my Surefire L5. "A fine light" The M20 Worrior Premium has been taking every day use without giving any more problems and isn't too hard on batterys. I've only used the CR123As in it so far but looking at rechargables. I would buy this light again and like Olights so well I bought a M30 a couple of months back. 
Edit: My wife has found the M20 to be the ideal light for her. She doesn't wear belts much and the clip is just right for her to clip on the pocket. With her taking possession of this light it will see plenty of use. So I cleaned up and lubed the O-rings on my trusty old TK10. I don't use clips on this size light. I just drop it in my pocket.
Billy


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