# looking for some VERY strong epoxy/glue



## milkyspit (Jan 31, 2004)

*Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

I'm doing a project soon where I need to glue a Radio Shack battery holder into one of those clear Otterbox cases that BatteryStation sells. I want the holder glued in there really securely, so whacks and drops won't dislodge it. But I've had bad luck glueing (sp.?) plastic to plastic, especially using the soft polyethylene (the "garbage bag" plastic) they make those battery holders out of.

What's my best bet for making a really GOOD bond between these parts? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif


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## JohnK (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

I am NOT an expert, but when I want to glue something forever, I use a two-part epoxy. 

This stuff will seal an engine block crack. Waterproof, etc.


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## paulr (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

There are different kinds of plastic and they need different kinds of glue. I think not much will stick to polyurethane, and the adhesives for it actually contain a solvent that partly dissolves the plastic, so that when it hardens again, the result is more like a weld than a glue bond.

For the battery holder to the otter box, your best bet is probably screws rather than glue, with RTV sealant or something similar around the screws to keep the holes sealed.


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## Bravo25 (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

Epoxy should work. I use hot glue in some situations.


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## darkzero (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

[ QUOTE ]
*JohnK said:*
I am NOT an expert, but when I want to glue something forever, I use a two-part epoxy. 


[/ QUOTE ]

Yup epoxy should work best. In your case with the battery holder, epoxy made for plastics or the durable/flexible type epoxy should work best. 

Local Walmart has the epoxy made for plastic called "Plastic Welder" and the durable epoxy is called "Super Poxy".


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## whiskypapa3 (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

Weld it in with Hot Glue. The hi temp yellowish kind made for wood from Home Depot, Sears etc.. Scrape good to remove left-over mold release. Work glue into parts with tip of gun.

Second best-- Generously score both parts with tip of knife held at flat angle and use GOOP (use contact cement method).


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## JohnK (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

Whiskey, I like that GOOP also.

It's worked on a myriad of projects Fairly long cure time though.


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## Floating Spots (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

3M makes some hot melts for olefins that can't be beat.
You would never get them apart again, but its not something that you can come by every day. 
If you have a gun that can accept 5/8" sticks, I can point them out to you.


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## bdl666 (Feb 1, 2004)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

You might want to try this . I use it a lot to repair speaker cones and never had any of the fail or separate after using this thing. It is a two part glue an activator and the bonding agent, you first use the activator to prepare the surface and then apply the bonding agent. It's kind of like superglue but the two pieces of plastic will never come apart. I bye it at a local supermarket for like $4.00 . 

P.S. Just notice you are from NJ if you have a Stop & Shop around you can find it there.


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## LitFuse (Feb 1, 2004)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

Scott- If the pieces are the same type of plastic, a superior glue can be made by dissolving the same type of plastic in a coffee can with some Xylene. It will take a while to melt though. Thinned to the consistency of molasses and applied, it will actually weld the pieces together. The only drawback its the time invoved in waiting for the mix to dissolve, and then re-cure after application. You won't *ever* have to worry about the assembly coming apart though. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Peter


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## milkyspit (Feb 1, 2004)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

[ QUOTE ]
*bdl666 said:*
You might want to try this . I use it a lot to repair speaker cones and never had any of the fail or separate after using this thing. It is a two part glue an activator and the bonding agent, you first use the activator to prepare the surface and then apply the bonding agent. It's kind of like superglue but the two pieces of plastic will never come apart. I bye it at a local supermarket for like $4.00 . 

P.S. Just notice you are from NJ if you have a Stop & Shop around you can find it there. 

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Turns out I bought some of that stuff a couple weeks ago at the local hardware store. I used it once to bond a plastic part to a metal part, and it failed. But more recently I glued plastic to plastic, and so far the bond seems to have worked fine!

Haven't tried it with polyethylene yet, though. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

Yes, I'll give it a try.


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## clicker (Feb 1, 2004)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

Finally something is my realm of expertise.

You guys want the llllong explaination and low down on plastics? or the uick cheat sheet of what works for most plastics we play with????

OH good the long version


Ok There are two types of "Glueing" the first is called adhesion. Which is what it sounds like taking two similar or dissimilar materials and bonding them together. 

The second type of bonding is called cohesion. That's where you take two similar materials and fuse them together. Usually using a solvent...I.E. xylene, acetone, and methylene chloride.

Typically done correctly cohesion is a stronger bond them adhesion-typically.

Anyway back to the science of glueing.

Polyolefins hate absolutely hate pretty much all chemicals....that's why we use them for gas cans and such. So trying to use xylene to melt ethylene or propylene won't work. So using two parts and other glues doen't work out so well. but there are some tricks to help with it.

Stuff like acrylic(Plexiglass), polycarbonate, and styrene based plastics love absolutely love solvent bonding. But you do have to what for whitening and stress cracking.

So we come back to polyethylene. How do we bond it???

Hot glue is a good choice (Most of the hot gule is either nylon or olefin based.) Dbl sided tape also works, using a soldering iron to actually weld the plastic can be done...if you know how to do it. and finally mechanically fastening it.



There are some things you can do to get better adhesion on polyolefins.

The first and someone already said it. Rough it up with sandpaper. The more nook and crannys the you have for the glue to get into the better. The second is called flame treatment. >>>>THIS IS ONLY FOR POLYOLEFINS<<<< But you can take a propane torch and set it on low flame them pass the flame over the surface of the plastic. You know you hit gold when you see tiny little bubbles from on the surface, the texture of the surface will get slightly bumpy.

But you have to watch it because too much and you have a meltdown.

Ok that's a shortened version of the long version. If you want more info just PM me or email me I can give you the rundown


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## kitelights (Feb 2, 2004)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

Scott I had the exact same problem when I was prototyping kitelights. Nothing would work permantly. 

When I contacted a plastics suppier, they told me that it had to be welded with a plastic welder. I not only sanded the surface, but took a Dremel to it with a coarse wheel. I drilled some holes that I got glue to ooze through. 

The problem is further complicated by the fact that the holders flex when you put batteries in and take them out. 

Cliker seems to be in the know. I guess I screwed up in reverse because I tried the flame treatment (I was trying ANYTHING) but it always messed up the holder. If it didn't warp it too badly, then it still made it very ridgid and not flexible enough to hold the batteries securely. 

Hot glue did the best job (I was VERY surprised at that), but still it would eventually fail. I PMd Floating Spots for info on the 3M product that he referred to. I ended up using a velcro strap in addition to the glue. 

I would suggest using screws or rivets if you really want it to hold up.


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## Floating Spots (Feb 2, 2004)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

I'm going to reply in this thread because more than one person asked. It will also allow more knowledgeable people to correct my (presented) deficiencies.

The one I ended up using was 3M's 3748 hot melt.
This one is a good bonder and ends up off white.
It's specifically says "A high performance hot melt adhesive for bonding many plastics including polyethylene and polypropylene."
Now, I didn't select it for this property specifically.
I selected it because it is also non corrosive to copper (which is good when tacking PCBs /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif ). However, I played with it some and it didn't exhibit a lot of adhesive failure. I saw more substrate failure and cohesive failure. (I'm an electrical engineer. Why do I know this? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

Looking around, 3M have one I have never tried. Its their 3796, which looks to be their high end plastic bonder.
It’s listed with the description of "High performance adhesive for bonding many metals, plastics, leather, and other non-porous substrates. It has good heat and oil resistance with a long bonding range."

3M's website is one of the worst I have ever worked with.
The info is scarce and hard to find.
The search utility brings back sheets from all countries, even though one must first specify where they are starting...
A few links are provided:
Hot Melt Selection Guide 
3748
3748 PDF 
3796 
3796 PDF


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## milkyspit (Feb 2, 2004)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*

Wow. This is getting better and better, guys. I appreciate the info! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## karlthev (Jul 7, 2007)

Not sure this is the right spot but, here goes anyway. I have a pair of binoculars which have rubber lens barrel protector guards (not sure this is the technical terminology!) onto which plastic lens caps are attached. My difficulty is with the rubber guards which should be more firmly attached to the plastic lens barrels. I almost lost one the other week when I took the lens caps off and the rubber protector fell into high grass on a hike. Now the question--I have tried Shoe Goo (traditionally used for running shoe and sole repairs) and Devcon rubber adhesive to try to more firmly attach the rubber guards to the plastic lens barrels, both without much success. Any ideas of what may be more useful so I don't end up trying to replace a part which is non-descript and possibly unobtainable? 


Karl


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## cy (Jul 7, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

try superglue first... amazing range of what it will successfully hold together. 
for instance superglue works great for holding foam washers on ARC's. 

used for shoe repairs, comes in large bottle in gel form. my bottle purchased from shoe repair shop dried up before I could use it all. great stuff!

3M plastics and emblem adhesive would be another candidate.


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## karlthev (Jul 7, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

Thanks CY! Jeez, you've got all the answers today haven't you?:wave:


Karl


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## bfg9000 (Jul 7, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

Some plastics are just notoriously hard to glue. If the cyanoacrylate (_Super Glue_) fails, I'd try a silicone glue (_Elmer's Stix-All_) or polyurethane (_Gorilla Glue_) next.

The _3M Plastic and Emblem Adhesive_ is a solvent-based flexible glue similar to _Shoe Goo/Goop_ or _Devcon Rubber Adhesive_.


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## dom (Jul 7, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

Also marine silicone "Sikaflex" will stick alot of things and remain flexible.


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## BIGIRON (Jul 7, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

Locktite "BlackMax" works on lots of stuff other things don't. But it also doesn't work on some things, like handheld shower holders.

Hard to find, but I've been able to get it here. www.grainger.com


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## McGizmo (Jul 7, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

Some good suggestions here to my untrained eye. If you use any type of cyanoacrylate, make sure you have cleaned the optics and you have some good air circulation so you don't get the white precipitate on the glass after it cures. 

Out of curiousity, is the adhesives you have tried sticking or bonding to one of the materials and not the other? There are some plastics as stated that don't accept a bond very well. Polypropelene for instance needs to be oxidized for any hope of bonding. A pass of an open flame over the surface can oxidize the surface and make the difference between adhesion and not.

The Sikaflex is a polyurethane adhesive and quite effective as suggested. 3M makes a "5200" polyurethane ashesive that is some of the most tenatious stuff around!


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## karlthev (Jul 7, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

Thanks gentlemen, most appreciated! :twothumbsI will give some thought and give one a try! Maybe the Sikaflex to start (and end!). Don, the glue won't hold on the plastic. I'm a bit antsy about heat treatment :duh2: so maybe with the right "stuff" I won't have to go that route.


Karl


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## McGizmo (Jul 7, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

Karl,
I expected it was the plastic. Years ago, I took RC glider kits designed and made by Hobie Alter (Hobie Cat fame) and finished them up as turn key planes ready to fly. Hobie taught me how to spray paint. The fuselage was a 3 piece affair with molded polyproplene nose and front end section, a tapered fiberglass tube for mid section and then a molded ABS tail section. These needed to be fared at the joints and then primed and painted with a durable polyurethane top coat. Although a good epoxy primer was used, it simply would not stick to the nose section unless it had been oxidized first. You had to take a propane torch and lick the surface with the flame. It didn't require extensive contact and I never melted one of these which would have been very easy to do. In your application, I would bet a bic lighter would suffice and again, just a quick brushing of the surface with the flame is all it would take. This is IF the problem is lack of oxidation of the surface. :shrug:

You might want to consider using one of the PVC or ABS primers you get for plumbing pipe and use it to treat the plastic first. The other consideration would be to do a good job of scuffing the plastic and going for a purely mechanical bond. I suspect that there are primers or "tie coats" developed for the plastic you are working with but doing the research needed may not be worth the effort.


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## HarryN (Jul 8, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question - Al to Al*

While we are on the subject of adhesives, I am looking for a really high peel strength one for Aluminum to Aluminum - bare - not anodized.

Many of the adhesives at the hardware store specifically state that Al adhesion is poor, and on some other forums (machining ones) there are discussions about this being a challenging bond.

Suggestions are most welcome.

Thanks


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## jch79 (Jul 8, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question - Al to Al*



HarryN said:


> While we are on the subject of adhesives, I am looking for a really high peel strength one for Aluminum to Aluminum - bare - not anodized.



Harry,

I use Lord 406/19 Acrylic Adhesive for just that - I'm a photographer, and sometimes mount my photos on large sheets of aluminum (around 6' long) which need backframes built from 1" square aluminum tubing to keep the sheet straight, and for hanging purposes.. as I can't solder the frames on, since it'd burn the paper on the other side, I was talking with a fellow who did this for other artists for a living, and he recommended this stuff.

It's extremely toxic (and stinky... to say the least) - so it needs to be done outside, or in a highly ventilated room. It dries a light tan color, if that matters to you. :shrug: But once it's set, it's SET.

I bought it from Elsworth Adhesives here. And here's the PDF product sheet at Lord's website. (if that download doesn't work, you need to register with them - which is free - to read their literature).

Hope it helps!
 john


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## HarryN (Jul 8, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

Thanks for that link - I have used some products from Lord and Ellsworth - usually pretty good stuff. Looks perfect for that bonding application.


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## TrekJeff (Aug 3, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

I'd second/third superglue. I carry a tube when bike riding in the event of having a cut tire. It works great as an initial temp fix on small cuts, preventing the tube from blowing out the hole/cut. I've had various rubber compounds in the tires I ride, I've always had good results.:thumbsup:


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## Marlite (Aug 6, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

Karlthev et al

I lost one cap and found a camera cover match at the swap meet, also bought 4 new holsters for $2.00 in a huge pile. You may be able to work your fix backwards and thicken the barrel of the binocs with PVC 3M 1/4" signwriters tape sold in 5-6 colors with a turn or two.

I have used super glue for impossible fixes. A glass bird with glued tail piece from Yucatan was received loose in box. Super glue alone failed as the pieces were not flat and bearing surface was poor. I remembered my old pal (a magician repairman) teaching me this trick: 
1.) Apply super glue to one surface and lightly dust the stationary piece with _baking soda, _carefully position wetted piece to dusted piece.*Voila!* 
2.) Another fix, wet both pieces for more strength and buildup add soda last. Dries instantly relatively clear. Invisible in fix one. Baking soda works the same way as costly accelerators. Same thing? 
*
Please use gloves, I use plastic bags for hand protection. Protect eyes, desks and clothing too! Murphy's Law.*

Enjoy, marlite


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## karlthev (Aug 9, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

Boy, I lost track of my initial question/thread! Thanks for all of the help folks, most appreciated. I tried rubber cement and some plastic-type (off the shelf) glues to no avail. I finally have attached it with Superglue. So far, so good. I hope this is "permanent" since losing this cap will probably mean I have lost it for "good" considering whre I generally hike. Thanks again!


Karl


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## LuxLuthor (Aug 9, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

This thread reminds me how technical and important it is to use the right adhesive. Sort of like before I started learning about flashlights or batteries, with glue I also have had very little understanding of the variety and features.


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## KWillets (Aug 9, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

http://www.thistothat.com/cgi-bin/glue.cgi?lang=en&this=Rubber&that=Plastic


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## crackerkorean (Sep 14, 2007)

*Plastic Welding*

Got a couple questions about plastic welding.

Where do I get the stuff to weld plastic?

Is this the best way to bond plastics or can some glues work?

If I can just use glue what kind should I use?

Thanks


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## Shovelrider (Sep 14, 2007)

*Re: Plastic Welding*

What kind of plastic is it? I glued the switchs back together on my car with the 2 part kit from loctite worked great. Eastwood has a plastic welding kit as does snap on and others. It all depends on the plastic.


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## crackerkorean (Sep 14, 2007)

*Re: Plastic Welding*

Not really sure for a particular project that I am working on. Its just hard and black. 

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=245737

Its for that bike light, who knows what the future will hold.
Do epoxys do a good job of holding fast for a long time?


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## will (Sep 15, 2007)

*Re: Plastic Welding*

Items like that are sometimes made with nylon impregnated plastic. There are lots of different kinds of plastic, each with it's own type of adhesive. You may end up trying out different types of adhesive until you find the one that works best.


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## TexLite (Sep 15, 2007)

*Re: Plastic Welding*

Plastic Welders can be found here http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/plstweldgate.aspx and here 
http://search.cartserver.com/search...databaseDescript&maxhits=5&keywords=URE5500HT
As far as plastic bonding goes these are some excellent products.We used some of the twin tube stuff for gluing on body panels(structural) when I worked in an auto-body shop.
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/c-594-automix-sealers-adhesives.aspx
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/c-564-duramix-plastic-metal-repair.aspx.
If you dont want to buy the special gun then these two can be mixed without a gun.
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pc-10380-513-4132-3m-structural-adhesive-kit-08101.aspx
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pc-11165-594-3m-automix-e-z-sand-flexible-parts-repair-kit.aspx.
The Automix 5895 is great for semi flexible parts,and even some rigid stuff.I think the 3M 08101 is more rigid.Both come in regular squeeze tubes.Just remember to clean the plastic first with lacquer thinner or some other solvent.Hope this helps.
P.S. If You only need a very small amount,I have some of the 5895,I can probably send you enough for a repair in zip-loc bags.


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## yellow (Sep 16, 2007)

UHU endfest will do a very fine job on most everything.

"glueing" plastic works best if You find the correct (dont know the english word: "weichmacher").
I had best results with *Methylenchlorid*, a "glue" used for plastic - looking like water and applied with a brush - works on many materials.

I do not really see what/why to glue at that light there? :thinking:
only that cable holder on the back side seems to have to be glued (but imho small screws should also work - better)


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## Wok (Sep 16, 2007)

*Re: Plastic Welding*

I use these

[SIZE=-1]www.3m.com/intl/kr/img/adh/adhesives/dpseries/*DP8005*.pdf
http://www.sika-industry.de/sikafast-5215_d.pdf

They are for different plastics.
[/SIZE]


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## crackerkorean (Sep 16, 2007)

*Re: Plastic Welding*

I have an idea to make it better astheticly and for my means easer to mount to the handle bar clamp.

Thanks for the help guys. Looks I like should be able to find a glue that will work.


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## VidPro (Sep 16, 2007)

*Re: Plastic Welding*

it might be ABS? when we "glue" plastic here which we do lots of stuff in plastic, we FAR prefer to "Solvent" the plastic itself then "Meld" the parts together as a single piece, as opposed to "weld" if you get the right solvent for a plastic, it softens it into goopey liquid, then once the solvent leaves, you have the plastic itself holding it.
with ABS (i am not sure it is that) we let the solvent SIT on it for a while, and rub a second piece of ABS into the solvent, making a sloppy goop that when dried forms a bond that is the material itself.

same thing with acrylic, they have acrylic solvents, and THICK acrylic solvents, but i am sure that isnt acrylic.

if you have to use a glue that is not Solventing the plastic itself, the LEAST is to sand it harshly with 60-120Grit sandpaper to get Gouges in the plastic for the glue to grip onto, and cleaning the outside of the plastic with alcohol and tri-clor. whatever it takes to get rid of the oily smooth surface, and to a highly porus gripable surface.


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## welderguyy (Sep 17, 2007)

*Re: Plastic Welding*

i do a ton of welding myself. for plastic welding i'd use something like this...

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/search/search.aspx?keywords=plastic+welder

you will see 2 different products. both of them are relatively cheap yet highly effective. or at least, they were effective for me.


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## crackerkorean (Sep 17, 2007)

*Re: Plastic Welding*

Thats the best source of all the stuff that I would need in one place so far. I just cannot justify spending that much on some cheap lights.

What to do?? I guess I will start with different epoxies.


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## Tritium (Sep 25, 2007)

*Re: Plastic Welding*

You can do a bit of plastic welding with a SMD hot air repair gun. Just set it for the temp that your particular plastic fuses. I use mine on HDPE all the time.

Thurmond


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## Lyndon (Sep 25, 2007)

*Re: Plastic Welding*

It can depend a lot on the type of plastic you have. Some types can't really be glued. This is a good guide to identifying plastic materials:
http://www.modernplastics.com/how_to_identify_plastics.htm


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## 2000xlt (Oct 7, 2007)

what do you reccomend, its for glueing plastic. A friend of mine gave me some AC-615 class A-2, but i found out from their website it wont work, i also tried some of that 2 part putty epoxy that comes in two film type cans, that did not work..also tried some devcon plastic welder "high strenght" it says working time 4 min handling time 15 min full strength in 24 hours. that did not work.


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## swampgator (Oct 7, 2007)

Depends on the type of plastic. Some polyethelenes have to be welded together with polyethelene, epoxies won't work on them.


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## Diesel_Bomber (Oct 7, 2007)

It's been my experience that the longer the curing time = the stronger the epoxy. 2 hour epoxy will be stronger than 15 minute, and 24 hour will be stronger than 2 hour. When joining plastic this may be a moot point, as most epoxies are stronger than most plastics.

Are you having a problem with the strength of the epoxy itself, or with adhesion to the material you're trying to join?

:buddies:


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## legtu (Oct 7, 2007)

here's a couple of threads that came up with a forum search... 

_(Moderator note: Thanks for the links, I merged them all together & removed the inactive links.)
_


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## 2000xlt (Oct 7, 2007)

it the adhesion, what i am trying to do is put some plastic clips on the fuel tank of one of my rc trucks they are for "fuel" and "exhaust pressure", each time and glue/epoxy after 24 hours cure i go to pop in the fuel lines and the clip pops off the tank, 6 in total, the glue remains on the plastic clips once they "detach from the tank, it comes off clean so the adheasion problem is with the tank


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## jtr1962 (Oct 7, 2007)

Lacquer thinner works as a great glue on many types of plastics. Try it first and see if it dissolves the plastic. If so, then you can use it as a glue (but only on closely mating surfaces since it won't fill gaps). Put the two pieces to be glued together, apply the lacquer thinner with a small brush. If should flow in by capillary action. Within an hour the joint should be dry.


EDIT:Never mind-I just tried it. Lacquer thinner is useless for polyethylene. It works great for styrene, acrylic, and polycarbonate though.


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## Diesel_Bomber (Oct 7, 2007)

Your r/c tank is probably polyethylene, which is a very inert plastic. The alcohol in your fuel won't eat polyethylene like it will most plastics, and nearly no glue will stick to it. Superglue bottles are made out of polyethylene for a reason. I think it was Bigiron that suggested looking for a water tank patch kit for RV's the last time this subject came up, as most RV water tanks are made of polyethylene too. Good luck, and let us know what winds up working.

:buddies:


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## Sigman (Oct 7, 2007)

Merged like threads...

Now back OT...my favorite "all around" glue for sometime has been "Gorilla Glue" (Elmer's has a similar product - "Ultimate Glue")
---> Both are polyurethane based and WORK GREAT!!


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## 2000xlt (Oct 7, 2007)

i found this

http://www.3mestore.com/62449526318.html

works on polypropylene, polyethylene, and high-impact polystyrene


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## 2000xlt (Oct 7, 2007)

oh gorilla glue you say.. huh, let me tell you its not good for locks, at the school where i work the kids did a "prank" and squirt gorilla glue into 30 locks on the outside locks. they had to work the summer to pay the damages


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## Burgess (Oct 8, 2007)

just a thought . . . .


Would double-sided tape work ?


Watched a History Channel special on "Glues and Adhesives",
and they mentioned that 3M's product called


*VHB double-sided tape*


is one of the world's strongest adhesives.



Perhaps somebody here has experience with that product ?



BTW --
Wow, i'm *always impressed* that CPF has members
who *really* know their stuff !

:bow: ___ :goodjob:


_


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## Burgess (Oct 8, 2007)

oh, by the way . . . .


This thread should be made a STICKY.



:nana:

_


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## UncleFester (Oct 9, 2007)

*Re: Adhesive Question*

I've discovered that what's sold as "plastic welder" is actually methylmethacrolate. While it's good at sticking plastics together, it will also stick just about anything to anything. It's surprisingly strong too. It makes ordinary epoxy look like elmers's glue. Just my 2¢

Edit: this is probably some of it. It's available at home depot or just about any drug store..


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## 2000xlt (Oct 9, 2007)

unclefester

That is the exact one i tried first, it did not work, after 24 hours of cure, i went to pop the line into the groove of the clip and the glue let go.

thanks for the replies everyone


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## CM (Oct 9, 2007)

I've had great luck with JB Weld. For plastic, I would rough up the surface. I know it's probably not supposed to work on some surfaces but I have not found it yet. This stuff is great.


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## UncleFester (Oct 9, 2007)

Well dang, I tried. I've had pretty good luck with it. I"m sorroy it didn't work in this case.


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## VidPro (Oct 9, 2007)

CM said:


> I've had great luck with JB Weld. For plastic, I would rough up the surface. I know it's probably not supposed to work on some surfaces but I have not found it yet. This stuff is great.


 
JB is some great stuff, the SLOW stuff is much better than the Kwic stuff, depending on need, and you would definatly have to rough/gouge up the surface and remove oils, that includes your fingerprints 
its a epoxy but much stonger than the clear stuff, i have repaired pot-metal breakages with it, and it withstood more pressure than the metal did originally.
i also have used it for Potting stuff (not plants curcuits)
Kwic is unworkable in less than 5 minutes, and hard as a plastic in 1 hour, the normal is workable for 20-30minutes, and takes 12+ hours to fully cure and hold something.


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## Scott Packard (Oct 9, 2007)

Maybe Bondo 806?

Easy Finish® Black Flexible Bumper Repair is an easy-to-use, two-part epoxy adhesive used to repair flexible parts, including interior plastic parts, dashboards and bumpers. Produces professional-looking results. Compatible with all bumper, trim and paint parts, including TPO and Urethane bumpers. Cures fast. Ratio is 1 to 1 (equal parts).

They claim you can call them at 800-421-2663 for technical info.

By the way, I have an old light made out of that plastic. I think it machines well but doesn't take to adhesives. I think it holds up well to high heat, almost like Bakelite.


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## 2000xlt (Oct 9, 2007)

uncle fester, 


I have used that product b4 for other quick fixes ad it worked great, no problem at all.

Thanks again


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## Diesel_Bomber (Oct 9, 2007)

I've used JB Weld on polyethylene gas cans, doesn't work.

:buddies:


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## VidPro (Oct 9, 2007)

Diesel_Bomber said:


> I've used JB Weld on polyethylene gas cans, doesn't work.
> 
> :buddies:


 
i can imagine, the plastics in those gas cans are Slick as snot, worse than vinyl, designed to insure nothing Solvents them into plastic goop too.

you would have to use a "polyethlene" solvent , whatever that would be?
plus if you were trying to Patch a hole in one, you would have gas oils all permiated into it, insuring nothing sticks like Pam for cooking 

mabey its Trichlorobenzene or DIchlorobenzene , PLUS higher temps, ( totally evil stuff, gets into water tables, makes people ill etc)

them white papers make my eyes Google


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## 2000xlt (Oct 9, 2007)

here is poly bonder from mistersticky.com, it is reccomended to not try to repair fuel containers since this particular bonder requires a brief flame treatment of the damaged item, this said process allowes the polyethlyne molecules to be receptive to the glue.

http://video.google.com/url?docid=-...ndex=0&usg=AL29H22BrYYRiIH4lVxLamYfsKAmscYRXg


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## Diesel_Bomber (Oct 9, 2007)

Agreed on repairing fuel tanks/gas cans. I didn't think JB-Weld would work, but I was hoping that if I prepared the surface enough it might.

I was attempting to add an air vent to one of the new "improved" (hah!) ventless fuel cans by drilling a hole, JB-Welding a nut to it, and adding an O-ringed thumbscrew with a slot cut partially down the side. Unscrew enough to expose the slot and the can would vent. Screw down against the O-ring and the can would seal. After the polyethylene/JB-Weld failure I started buying metal jerry cans and doing the same thing, but I tig weld the nut in place instead. Works a treat.


:buddies:

Edit: Fuel tanks can still be flame treated if they're drained and filled with water first. I've welded on fuel tanks using this method. Insert standard disclaimer here, if you blow yourself up it's not my fault and I take no responsibility.


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## TedTheLed (Oct 10, 2007)

for cracks in plastics I find a polyamide hot melt glue works, sometimes..

"..
Ultra-Tac Polyamide Glue Sticks
Formulated for ultra high demand adhesive applications, this polyamide based glue stick stands up to high temperature, harsh climates and sticks like crazy to anything it touches! 
Great for auto repair, high stress joints, construction and hot, humid environments. Will join PVC, nylon, wood, metal, and urethanes. Resistant to plasticizers.."

http://www.glu-stix.com/shop/page/product_detail/Product/67136cccf00d511637cd2e7ece2b38b7.html


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## snipinglight (Oct 10, 2007)

2 part epoxy works on hard plastic like ABS or polycarbonate. It will not work on PE, PP, PTFE, or telfon, its hopeless.


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## TedTheLed (Feb 13, 2008)

http://www.marinetex.com/

was just reviewing this thread and thought I'd add marine tex; I just patched some big rusty holes (from the screws penetrating the roof in the roof-rack) in the roof of my car with it.
I've used it to patch big holes in PVC pipe too. makes bone-dry repairs in a few hours..
it's made to repair holes in boat hulls, underwater even! 
highly recommended.


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## BassClefJeff84 (Feb 13, 2008)

*Re: Best Plastic to Plastic Glue?*



milkyspit said:


> I'm doing a project soon where I need to glue a Radio Shack battery holder into one of those clear Otterbox cases that BatteryStation sells. I want the holder glued in there really securely, so whacks and drops won't dislodge it. But I've had bad luck glueing (sp.?) plastic to plastic, especially using the soft polyethylene (the "garbage bag" plastic) they make those battery holders out of.
> 
> What's my best bet for making a really GOOD bond between these parts? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif


 
I have found that hot glue is ideal to use in addition to epoxying parts together when the parts are hard to keep together while curing. The hot glue dries really quick to hold stuff in place, while the epoxy cures with no wobbly parts. Just a couple of small drops of hot glue does the trick. 

JB weld is great for metal

Goop is good for shoes and rubbery stuff

Good ole silicone II is more versitle than most think

white elmers school glue is good for.......nothing.


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## 2000xlt (Feb 13, 2008)

I ordered this so that i could adhere some plastic pieces to a polyethelyne surface, although i have not yet used it, its supposed to be very good short of solvent welding
works well on polypropylene, polyethylene, and high-impact polystyrene

3m scotch grip plastic adheasive 4693 H ;product link is below

http://www.3mestore.com/3m-scotch-grip-plastic-adhesive-4693h.html


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## darkhanger18 (Feb 14, 2008)

well, if you are are serious about really getting a good bond, then mechanically bonding them is one of the better choices, but the problem is that you don't get a large surface area for the bond. This plastic welder works great for this. http://www.hejet.com/plasticwelder.html


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