# Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!



## selfbuilt (Jun 5, 2012)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *











Rofis is a fairly new manufacturer. Their inaugural series was an innovative rotating angle-head design – the Jazz "Transformer" – originally in 1xCR123A (JR10) and 2xCR123A/1x18650 (JR20) formats. In this review, I will look at the new JR30, a 1xAA model Transformer (shown above). I will also look at their new budget offering, the two-stage 1xAA ER12 (shown below).










*Reported Manufacturer Specifications:* 

*Rofis JR30*

Cree XP-G LED (R5) with a lifespan of 50,000 hours
Uses one 1.5V AA (Ni-MH, Alkaline) battery 
Two modes and six types of output
Lumen/Runtime: Hi 120lm/2hr, Med 50lm/5hr40min, Lo 5lm/75hr
Beam Distance: 80m
Beam Intensity: 1620cd
Impact Resistance: 1.5m
Digitally regulated output - maintains constant brightness
Intelligent memory circuit, automatically memorizes the brightness level when switch off
Reverse polarity protection, to protect from improper battery installation
Waterproof to IPX-8 (underwater 2m)
Tactical tail cap switch with momentary-on function
Made of durable aircraft-grade aluminum
Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish
Toughened ultra-clear glass lens with anti-reflective coating
119mm (Length) x 22mm (Diameter)
75-gram weight (excluding battery)
Accessories: holster, umbrella rope, rubber switch boot and two spare o-rings
Notice: The above-mentioned parameters (tested in lab by using quality AA battery ) are approximate and may vary between flashlights, batteries, and environments.
MSRP: ~$50
*Rofis ER12*

Cree XP-G LED (R5) with a lifespan of 50,000 hours
Uses one 1.5V AA(Ni-MH,Alkaline) battery
Lumen Output: 110 Lumens (High, 2h 10min), 30 Lumens (Low, 9h 10min)
Beam Distance: 75m
Beam Intensity: 1420cd
Impact Resistance: 1.5m
Waterproof to IPX-8 (underwater 2m)
Digitally regulated output-maintains constant brightness
Reverse polarity protection, to protect from improper battery installation
Metal button switch in the tailcap
Capable of standing up securely on a flat surface to serve as a candle
Made of durable aircraft-grade aluminum
Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish
Toughened ultra-clear glass lens with anti-reflective coating
96mm (Length) x19.6mm (Diameter)
39-gram weight (excluding batteries)
Accessories: Carabiner key ring, spare o-ring
MSRP: ~$33






JR30 packaging includes a good number of extras, the same as the JR10 & JR30. Along with the light, you get a decent quality holster, thin paracord-style wrist lanyard, extra o-rings and boot cover, stainless steel clip (attached), manual and warranty card. 

Sorry, I slipped the wrong manual in the pic above. 






ER12 packaging is more basic - the box has a simple magnetic closing clasp, cut-out foam holding the light, a manual, caribiner-style clip ring, and one extra o-ring.





From left to right: Duracell AA NiMH; Rofis ER12, JR30; Nitecore EZAA; Zebralight SC51; Tiablo E2A; Thrunite 1A; 4Sevens Quark AA.

JR 30:












From left to right: Duracell AA NiMH; Sunwayman L10A; Rofis JR30

ER12:





All dimensions are given with no batteries installed:

*Rofis ER12*: Wright: 35.5g, Length: 96.2mm, Width (bezel): 18.6mm
*Rofis JR30*: Weight: 76.2g, Length (max): 119.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.3mm
*Sunwayman V10A*: Weight: 58.1g, Length 100.6mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Sunwayman V11R with AA extender:* Weight 59.70g, Length: 100.5mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Tiablo E2A*: Weight: 45.7g, Length: 101.2mm, Width (bezel): 19.9mm
*Thrunite Neutron 1A*: Weight: 60.4g, Length: 105.6mm, Width (bezel): 22.0mm
*Xeno E03:*: Weight: 48.1g, Length 96.7mm, Width (bezel): 21.5mm 
*Xtar WK25B*: Weight 42.9g, Length: 102.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.5mm

The JR10 is definitely larger than a typical 1xAA light, due to the rotating angle-head rotating mechanism. The ER12 is very slim for a 1xAA clicky light, but is still noticeably larger than the slim-lined twisty Nitecore EZAA.

*Rofis JR30*: Weight: 76.2g, Length (max): 119.3mm (angled) 102.1mm, Width (bezel): 22.3mm
*Rofis JR10*: Weight 75.0g, Length (max): 110.6mm (angled): 92.9mm, Width (bezel): 24.8mm
*Rofis JR20*: Weight 907.g, Length (max): 144.4mm (angled): 136.6mm, Width (bezel): 24.8mm

As you can see above, the JR30 has a narrower width than the earlier JR10/20 (which had to be wider to accommodate the thicker CR123A/18650-sized cells). Overall length is intermediate, as you would expect.

JR30:

























The build of JR30 is very similar to the earlier JR10/20 – but there are a few notable differences. 

As before, the build is fairly robust, and the light has a very solid feel. The body wall thickness seems similar to before – but the overall body width is narrower, due to the need to only support 1xAA batteries. 

The JR30 also has significant knurling, of good aggressiveness (for good grip). However, the knurling has a finer pattern now, and is not quite as deeply cut compared to the earlier JR10/20. Anodizing remains a matte black, and seems of good quality (i.e. no dings or scratches on my samples). Labels are bright white against the black background, as before.

One noticeable change internally - there is no longer a spring in the head, and the reverse polarity ring would prevent you from using flat-top cells. But since the JR30 is only rated for standard AA batteries, this shouldn't be an issue.

Also, the head on the JR30 can now separate from the battery tube (i.e., appeared to be sealed on my earlier JR10/20). Note these threads are anodized (more on this in a moment), and I found the head unscrewing enough to shut off the light sometimes when applying twisting force to the angle-head. You need to hold the base of the head down when transforming now. :shrug:

The clip design has changed, as has the attachment point. The new clip attaches in a similar manner to most other clip-on style clips, below the tail threads on the body tube (i.e., the JR10/20 had a distinctive attachment style and location). Note that I recommend you oil this area before trying to get it off – on my JR30 sample, it severely scratched the anodizing when I tried to remove it. Note that this new clip has a raised area before the initial bend, allowing you to still carry it in at least a partial "deep pocket" style way. 

This clip is no longer reversible in the sense of the original model. But it turns out the body tube is now reversible (i.e., you can reverse the head and tail on body tubes). :thumbsup: Note threads are anodized at both ends of the body tube, maintaining lock-out in either orientation. This presumably explains the change in the head connection noted above. Note that a bezel-up clip orientiation is important if you want to use the light hands-free in angle-mode (e.g., clipped on you), so I am glad to see this functionality.

As before, tailcap switch is a forward clicky, with traditional traverse and firm click. Even with the tailstanding flanges, I found it easy to access with any finger or thumb. The head mode-changing switch is an electronic switch, with a good click-feel for this type of switch.

Light can tailstand, no sign of wobble on my sample. Note that tailstanding also works when in the angle-head position (i.e., weight distribution is fine). 

Light has a slightly beveled aluminum bezel, as before.

Lights use square-cut screw threads, anodized for lock-out. But threading diameter has change from the JR10/30, and the threads seem smaller and more finely cut now.

While the initial impression is that the JR30 doesn't look very different from the early JR10/20, there are a fair number of subtle build differences when you look closely. 

ER12:














The ER12 has a surprisingly substantial-feel light for a light this size. While not as small as some 1xAA offerings, it is definitely slimmer than most. 

The light lacks knurling as such, and has instead some fluted ridges on the body and head to help with grip. The body also has a slightly raised white pattern along two sides, which also helps with grip. Styling is a matter of personal preference, but I find all the white side labeling a little peculiar looking. 

The head has a pronounced brass heatsink, with traditional triangular-cut screw threads. As with the JR30, there is a reverse polarity ring in the head (i.e., only button-tops can be used).

Head has a flat aluminum bezel.

Tailcap has a reverse-clicky switch under a labeled metal switch cover (which is smaller than typical). Switch feel is good, and the light can still tailstand. Note there are split ring attachment points in the tail, allowing the light to hang or tailstand stably even when connected to a keychain/caribiner.

*User Interface*

JR30: 

The dual-switch UI is unchanged from the JR10/20, and is similar to that used on some of the Klarus and Fenix lights.

Turn the light on by pressing the tailcap forward clicky (press for momentary on, click for locked on).

Click and release the side switch to change output levels. In standard General mode, the output will change in the following sequence Lo > Med > Hi > Turbo, in repeating order. The light will memorize the last mode used, and return to it upon re-activation (turn off/on by the tailcap switch).

To access the blinking modes, press and hold the side switch for about 1 sec. You now have Strobe > SOS > Beacon modes, in repeating order. Note there is no memory feature for the blinking modes – the light will always come on in the last memorized General constant output mode.

ER12:

The ER12 is a simple two-output stage light. Turn the light on/off by the reverse clicky in the tail (i.e., press and release to turn on, press to turn off).

Fully tighten the head against the body for Hi mode, loosen slightly for Lo mode.

And that's it – no blinky modes, hidden or otherwise. 

For a more detailed examination of the build and user interface for the two lights, please see my video overview: 



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

*PWM*

There is no sign of PWM, at any output level on either light. The lights are either current-controlled, or there is PWM at frequency that is too high for my setup to detect.

JR30 Strobe:






As before, strobe on the JR30 is an alternating "tactical" strobe, switching between 15.5 Hz and 6.7 Hz (for ~2 secs at a time each freq, in a repeating loop). 

JR30 Beacon:






As before, beacon mode is one flash every half a second (i.e., 2 Hz).

Again, there are no blinking modes on the ER12. 

*Beamshots:*

JR30:










The relative shape of the reflector hasn't changed much from the earlier JR10/20 lights – but the JR30 reflector is smaller overall (due to the narrower body width). There is also less of an opening around the emitter (which was well centered on my JR30 sample – better than on the JR10). The reflector has light texturizing, but it is less pronounced than before (i.e., now a light orange peel = LOP)

ER12:










The ER12 has a smaller reflector than the JR30, but overall relative design/shape seems similar. The texturing is even milder (more of a very light orange peel).

And now, the white-wall beamshots.  All lights are on Max output on Sanyo Eneloop AA NiMH. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 





























































The beam patterns of both lights are similar, with fairly well-defined center hotspots. While there are a few beam rings visible in the corona, these are not distracting.

And don't worry about the beam tints – that is largely just the camera's auto-correction.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 
*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables.






ANSI FL-1 output specs for the JR30 and ER12 both seemed very consistent with my testing, at all levels. 

ANSI FL-1 throw measures seemed pretty accurate for the JR30, but my ER12 was less throwy than claimed. Frankly, the ER12 was reasonable given the size of the head and the output level (i.e., about what I would have expected).

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*




















Like its predecessors, the JR10 was a top-notch performer for the XP-G class. Output/runtime efficiency was excellent at all levels tested, and regulation patterns were typically fully stabilized. Performance was quite comparable the Klarus ST10 overall.

The ER12 had lower output/runtime efficiency than the JR30, but still as good as many other lights in this class. Efficiency seemed quite comparable to the Xeno E03 XP-G, for example.

Reported runtimes (from the specs) seem at least slightly optimistic, even taking into account ANSI FL-1's lower time to 10% standard (presumably on alkaline in this case). But runtimes are certainly quite reasonable, given the overall efficiency.

*Potential Issues*

There is no mention of 3.7V Li-ion support for either light. 

The JR30 clip is the common clip-on style, and feels slightly less stable to me than its predecessor models, the JR10/20. Note that bezel-up orientation is still permitted now, but by exchanging the head and tail on the body tube instead of reversing the clip.

JR30 is longer than typical for this class, due to the angle-head mechanism.

Make sure you hold the base of the head when "transforming" the JR30 between straight-through or angle-head – otherwise, you are likely to inadvertently unscrew the head from the body tube, temporarily cutting contact. This is a side effect of the anodized threads at both end of the body tube (required to maintain lock-out and reversibility of the body/clip).

On the ER12, overall efficiency is lower than the JR30 (but still acceptable relative to its budget peers).

ER12 could be slippery when wet, due to the lack of knurling

*Preliminary Observations*

Like the earlier JR10/20, the JR30 is a versatile and well-made light, with top-of-the-line performance. The ER12 balances form and function in a more budget offering, and competes well in that space. 

The JR30 is generally similar to the earlier JR10/20, but there have been a few build differences. The clip design has changed (more common attachment style now), and you reverse the orientation by swapping the head and tailcaps on the body tube (made possible by the user-removable head - another build change from the JR10/20).

The innovative rotating angle-head design is unchanged, and works as before. I find this mechanism to be quite robust, with appropriate stiffness (i.e., won't turn on its own). However, due to the reversive body with anodized threads, you may wind up breaking contact with the battery unless you hold the base of the head when "transforming". 

But one thing that hasn't changed - circuit performance on the JR30 remains excellent, with output/runtime efficiency on par with (or exceeding) the best current-controlled circuits I've seen in this class. :bow:

Similarly, the JR30's dual-switch interface works as before, with comparable feel. I find this UI to be intuitive, and well implemented (i.e. good switch feel, at both ends). 

The ER12 is obviously intended as a more budget offering. The design and user interface is much simpler than the JR30, but the ER12 still has a quality feel for such a slim-lined model.

On the topic of build, I like the general compactness of the ER12. The inclusion of the tail-standing reverse clicky is a nice touch, and switch feel is good despite the small size and metal button cover. I also like the brass heatsink in the head, which contributes to an overall quality feel for the price. I do wish the light had actual knurling though, as I find it can be a bit slippery.

Circuit performance has dropped somewhat from the JR30, but the ER12 is still very much in keeping with other lower-cost offerings from other makers (e.g., performance is very similar to the Xeno E03).

As an aside, I have recently had the opportunity to physically compare the ER12 to the budget Fenix offering, the E11. These two lights have very similar overall dimensions and specs (i.e., output levels look comparable, but of course I haven't done runtime comparisons yet). But with the exception of knurling/grip, the ER12 appears to be a physically superior build in every other way (i.e. beam quality, brass heatsink, tailstanding, etc.). 

Ultimately, I find that both of these lights are generally well suited for their intended target audiences. It's nice to see manufacturers paying continued attention to the 1xAA class, as this is where a lot of "mainstream" interests lies. The JR30 and ER12 and welcome additions to this space.

----

Rofis JR30 and ER12 supplied by SBFlashlights.com for review.


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## shelm (Jun 5, 2012)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*

Thanks for your efforts. Hopefully their lights become well-sellers (unlike Lumintop lights, see EDC+ stock reduction) one day!
i fear that rofis lights are a total niche product with little mass appeal.


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## selfbuilt (Jun 5, 2012)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*



shelm said:


> i fear that rofis lights are a total niche product with little mass appeal.


The transformers are a distinctive solution for those looking for both traditional and angle-head design (but I agree, the latter is a niche market).

The ER12 is a nice basic two-stage light though.


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## Gryffin (Jun 6, 2012)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*



selfbuilt said:


> But the main issue with this change is that the clip is no longer truly reversible. Although you could try to flip it the other way, the end of the clip barely makes contact with the raised tailstand area on the tailcap (it certainly doesn't reach the thumb cut-outs at all). While technically do-able, this does not inspire confidence for stable bezel-up carry. This change is very disappointing, since you would want a secure way to clip it on to you for hands-free use when in angle-head mode. :sigh:



Potentially dumb question, but: can you reverse the *body*, so that the clip fits bezel-up?


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## selfbuilt (Jun 6, 2012)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*



Gryffin said:


> Potentially dumb question, but: can you reverse the *body*, so that the clip fits bezel-up?




Not a stupid question at all - turns out it works! This is presumably why the body tube is anodized at both ends (should have clued in on that point). I will update the review.


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## Gryffin (Jun 6, 2012)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*



selfbuilt said:


> Not a stupid question at all - turns out it works!



Cool! Sometimes I push right through "dumb" until I come round again to "smart"!


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## Kharson45 (Jun 9, 2012)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*

Great review! Interesting little light. I like the idea of a right angle light and can see one of these in my future.


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## tobrien (Jun 9, 2012)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*

if that strip of lines on the ER12 was like a variable, touch-sensitive control "dial" like SWM, that'd be so cool


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## kavawava (Jun 13, 2012)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*

Great review SelfBuilt! I really enjoy your reviews both here and on YouTube, excellent information.


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## shelm (Jul 17, 2012)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*



selfbuilt said:


> Like its predecessors, the JR10 was* a top-not* performer for the XP-G class. Output/runtime efficiency was excellent at all levels tested, and regulation patterns were typically fully stabilized. Performance was quite comparable the Klarus ST10 overall.



a typo?
was "*not a top*" performer?


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## selfbuilt (Jul 17, 2012)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*



shelm said:


> a typo?


Yes, a typo. Should have been top-notch.


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## mactavish (Sep 6, 2013)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*

Another fantastic review "selfbuilt", and these usually cost me money! 

Wondering if you are able to get anohter, more current sample to update your review. Now that according to the Rofis website, they have updated the LED to a "CREE XP-G2", with an advertised "max 210 lumen" output, I'm trying to find one to buy. I see this updated model on a few Austrian websites, but living in the US, that may not be a great option. The "sbflashlights" website is still showing the now OLDER "XP-G (R5)", same on other easier to find sites. Anyone see the new "updated" model anyplace other then the AUS sites? Thanks!


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## selfbuilt (Sep 6, 2013)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*



mactavish said:


> Wondering if you are able to get anohter, more current sample to update your review. Now that according to the Rofis website, they have updated the LED to a "CREE XP-G2", with an advertised "max 210 lumen" output, I'm trying to find one to buy.


I haven't seen one, but typically XP-G2 models are ~2 bin steps up from XP-G. That would mean on average ~14% more output on max then what I tested (i.e., for a XP-G2 R5 compared to a XP-G R5). Note that in practice, it could be anywhere from ~8-20% between any two samples (given natural variation between samples).


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## mactavish (Sep 7, 2013)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*

Thanks, now if I can only find one of these "updated" versions someplace. I've email two AUS web sites to see if they deliver to the US and what the shipping costs may be.

Forgot to mention the update G2 model supports Li-ion 14500 batteries:

*Battery:* Uses 1 x AA(Ni-MH, Alkaline)or 1 x 14500 Li-ion battery


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## nickso (Sep 15, 2013)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*

Has anyone found a US supplier for the Rofis units ?
I'm interested in the JR30.


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## mactavish (Sep 15, 2013)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*



nickso said:


> Has anyone found a US supplier for the Rofis units ?
> I'm interested in the JR30.



GoingGear.com now has the NEW model in stock. If the mail comes on time, I should have it by tomorrow night. Not sure how the regulation works on this model as they claim over 200 lumens from the AA lithium, the LED change while an upgrade can't be responsible for almost 2x the quoted output now from the last model, though I'm not sure the last model published supporting a lithium AA, as this one does now. Perhaps when it sees the higher voltage battery it is able to deliver more current to the bulb?


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## nickso (Sep 15, 2013)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*

Thanks for the reply.
Looks like GoingGear has most if not all of the Rofis lights. I did not see where the JR30 would take a lithium AA, as least not on the GG site. 

One interesting thing I noticed about the JR10 is that the XP-G R5 costs more than the XP-G2. Not sure why that would be.


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## mactavish (Sep 15, 2013)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*

You can see the "updated" specs for the G2 model here:
http://www.rofislight.com/_d276112344.htm


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## nickso (Sep 15, 2013)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*



nickso said:


> Thanks for the reply.
> Looks like GoingGear has most if not all of the Rofis lights. I did not see where the JR30 would take a lithium AA, as least not on the GG site.
> 
> One interesting thing I noticed about the JR10 is that the XP-G R5 costs more than the XP-G2. Not sure why that would be.



Correction, the Rofis site does show the JR30 taking a 14500. That is what they are quoting the 210 lm with. GG and sbflashlights have not updated their sites yet.

I know these are not popular and well studied/used lights, but I am interested. 

Another light on order :duh2:


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## nickso (Sep 15, 2013)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*



mactavish said:


> You can see the "updated" specs for the G2 model here:
> http://www.rofislight.com/_d276112344.htm



thanks Mac, you beat me.


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## mactavish (Sep 30, 2013)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*

The Rofis JR30 is a decent light, I only bought it because of the rotating head, I already have a Fenix MC-11, that head only tilts "down", and NO Lithium support like most if not all Fenix lights so far. 

This Rofis on a 14500 bat, this is of course brighter. Be CAREFUL when twisting the head, the edges are very SHARP, to make the head blend into the body when in the straight position, but you can CUT your finger on these edges, not a big deal if you are aware of it. I've grown tired of my twisty's, as well as my lights that have rear & side buttons, as you have to change your grip on the lights. So after all the positive reviews and suggestions here, I broke down, and bought the latest ZebraLight SC52w. And indeed the interface with ONE button, is the BEST so far of all my recent 12 flashlight purchases, including the EagleTac 25A clicky, which is a one button on tailcap design. While I plan to keep and use all the others for various special purposes or just for fun, the Zebralight is as bright or brighter then all my others, and it's so easy to access all the modes with a simple one button interface that falls naturally under your thumb.


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## mike280z (Oct 13, 2013)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*

Recently purchased the rj30 in hopes of finding a way of clipping it to me to and angle the head to light my way hands free at night.. I deliver food and showing up to the door with a head lamp wasnt all that cool. Well after some experimenting I found more than one way to do it... Clipped to shirt collar, chest pocket, or belt. Clip it upside-down and then just angle the head forward to the right angle. Good balance of flood and throw it seems.. 

I have the gen 2 that can use a 14500.. however I have cheapo protected cells that are to long to use. I can't screw the end back on.. and considering my rookie status with li-ion I probably won't be getting any unprotected cells. Especialy because I have a cheapo quick charger that I'm sure would only aid in me suffering a meltdown lol... 

My first decent aa light.. yes more of a specialty light I guess.. but perhaps more people should give this light a go.. its not like you HAVE to twist the head. seams very under-rated to me. Or I could still be in honeymoon faze. 

Side note. (I like that I have the options of the blinking stuff, but really love that its hidden.) 
The sk68 blew me away when I went to 14500.. am dying to see the rj30 on it... Probably just like the sk68 I wouldn't go back to aa though.


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## mactavish (Oct 14, 2013)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*

Bought (2) of "AW14500P AW 14500 Protected LIMN Battery", they fit in the Rofis, as well as all my other AA lights.

BTW: "gramar" is spelled "grammar".


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## mike280z (Oct 14, 2013)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*



mactavish said:


> Bought (2) of "AW14500P AW 14500 Protected LIMN Battery", they fit in the Rofis, as well as all my other AA lights.
> 
> BTW: "gramar" is spelled "grammar".



Haha. Thanks! So do you agree the transformer / rofis line is a little under-rated. 
And I'm dying to see what the jr30 is like on 14500... Is it brighter than a sipik 68? 
I just hit the stage where I'm hunting down rechargeables and a decent charger. 
Prefer to buy local.. but the only set of duraloops I found are 17.99 for 4. 
Any recommendations on charger brands that could handle lithium and enloops? Then maybe a reputable site to get the charger and batteries. I hate getting knockoff products.. $50 for charger and a couple AA and AAA is what I have set aside


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## mactavish (Oct 14, 2013)

*Re: Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!*



mike280z said:


> Haha. Thanks! So do you agree the transformer / rofis line is a little under-rated.
> And I'm dying to see what the jr30 is like on 14500... Is it brighter than a sipik 68?
> I just hit the stage where I'm hunting down rechargeables and a decent charger.
> Prefer to buy local.. but the only set of duraloops I found are 17.99 for 4.
> Any recommendations on charger brands that could handle lithium and enloops? Then maybe a reputable site to get the charger and batteries. I hate getting knockoff products.. $50 for charger and a couple AA and AAA is what I have set aside



The specs show an increase on the "high" mode from 130 lumens, to 210 lumens when run on a 14500, with of course less run time, heat, etc. Lights like the AA Zebra SC52W, actually step down from the highest setting in 60 seconds, to save the light from heat. Nice to have the extra brightness, as a short time option. My Rofis does NOT Tail sit that well, the rounded edges of the tail cutouts for your thumb or finger, are small and well, "rounded" so it rocks a bit, and is very unsteady unless placed on a perfectly FLAT surface, like a marble countertop. I also own another adjustable head light, the Fenix MC11, though it's NOT lithium compatible. 

For my lithiums, I have a PILA charger, for Nimh I use a MAHA MH-C9000. Eneloops ONLY here, now owned and branded by Panasonic. I don't believe there is a dual charger, maybe some hobby charger out there, I'll let others chime in if there is such a charger? 

For now I believe the Zebra is the BEST all around AA LED light, due to size, output, and features, but the Rofis has it's place for special purposes, though the rocky tail standing does detract from it's usefulness when you angle the head to illuminate something and you want to place it on a table, not hold it.


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