# Olight i3E EOS 6 Colors (Luxeon TX, 1xAAA) Review



## candle lamp (Jan 7, 2016)

I remember Olight produced their i3 EOS of i-series lights under their own name in 2011. They released the i3S EOS after that. The I3E EOS is the latest 1xAAA keychain light. Six colors (Black, Green, Purple, Blue, Red, Silver) are available for this model. 

Packaging is a small card with features & specifications printed on the front and back. Included in the blister pack is the light with a small split-ring (attached) and GreenMax AAA alkaline battery. 
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*Manufacturer Specifications* from user manual :
• Using a high performance Philips LUXEON TX LED which has a lifespan of 60,000 hours
• Paired with high quality PMMA TIR lens delivering a homogeneous beam
• Maximum output of 90 lumens (colors), 120 lumens (silver only)
• Powered by a single AAA Alkaline battery
• Aircraft-grade aluminum body with anti-scratch Milspec type-III anodizing (colors)
• Easily connects to a keychain or lanyard through a key ring on the lights tail cap
• Available in bight silver, black, red, blue, green and purple
• Waterproof IPX8
• Head diameter×Length : 0.55in×2.38in





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The green color was chosen as a sample for review. The finish is good with no flaws on my sample. There is no knurling. Instead, the light has grooves along the length of the head and body tube. The light has no tail switch (i.e., twisty-style light). On-Off switching single-handed is not easy. The lettering is clear and sharp on my sample.
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The light has 2 parts. The pocket clip is not supplied, but there is a groove-looking clip attachment part at the end of the body.
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The head has a clean looking cylindrical design with grooves. There is a circuit board in the head. The light has no reverse polarity protection function to protect from incorrect battery installation (i.e., you should be careful when inserting battery into the body tube). 
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The light comes with a PMMA (Poly Methyl MethAcrylate or Acrylic Glass ) TIR lens and uses a Philips Luxeon TX emitter. Centering is not perfect on my sample, but acceptable (i.e., it doesn't influence the beam quality in real life).
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There are grooves along the length of the head and body tube. Grip is not as grippy as actual knurling would be. I hope OLight could supply the pocket clip, as it not only does help with grip, but also serves as an anti-roll device. There's nothing to stop rolling. If you use the light with a key, you don't need to worry about that, of course. The wall thickness of the body is 0.9mm, it is not so thick for the class.
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The screw threads are square-cut of good quality. It seems threads were not well lubricated. But, screw threads action is smooth with no cross-threading or squeaking on my sample. 
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The i3E EOS has a built-in split-ring attachment point on the tail end, and come with an included split-ring, which means it prevent tailstanding. The light has a simple spring at the bottom of the body tube that can be manually removed.
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*User Interface* 

The UI is quite simple, as the light is a single-stage light.
Twist the head tight against the body to activate the light, loosen to turn off.

There is no strobe or SOS mode.
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From left to right, Panasonic Eneloop AAA (750mAh), Olight i3E EOS (LUXEON TX), Fenix E99 Ti (XP-E2), Ultratac K18 (XP-G2 S2), Skillhunt Ramble-I (XP-E R2). Lumintop Tool AAA Copper (Nichia 219B). 
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From left to right, Olight i3E EOS (LUXEON TX), Fenix E99 Ti (XP-E2), Ultratac K18 (XP-G2 S2), Lumintop Tool AAA Copper (Nichia 219B). 
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*Measured Dimensions*




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The i3E EOS is quite compact in size for the class. It's fairly good size for keychain light. *Overall build quality* is very high.
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*PWM*





The light shows no sign of PWM. I notice there is no buzzing sound. 
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*Runtime*





The runtime to fall to 10% of its initial output from 30 seconds after the point the light is first turned on (i.e., based on ANSI FL-1) for Max. is as follows :

The light on Eneloops maintains perfectly flat regulation for an extended period, followed by a dropping off. As expected, Eneloop AAA (900mAh) gives you the longest runtime. Note that 10440 li-ion is not officially supported.
Alkaline AAAs show also a excellent regulation before dropping off.

Overall output-runtime efficiency seems very good, as expect for a current-controlled light.
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*Beamshot*

1. White door beamshot (about 50cm from the white door) on max. output on 1xPanasonic Eneloop AAA (750mAh) 
- ISO125, F/8.0, 1/25sec, Auto white balance 














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- ISO125, F/8.0, 1/100sec, Auto white balance














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- ISO125, F/8.0, 1/800sec, Auto white balance














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- ISO125, F/8.0, 1/2000sec, Auto white balance















Thanks to TIR optics, beam pattern is the focused hot spot for throw with minimal side spill (i.e., not flood light). The light shows reasonably good beam quality. The overall tint is slightly close to cool white.
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2. 3.5m Indoor Beamshot on max. output on 1xPanasonic Eneloop AAA (750mAh) 
- ISO125, F/2.8, 1/10sec, Auto white balance




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The above picture make it look like all lights are not brighter than they actually are. So I took a picture with 1/5sec as below.
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- ISO125, F/2.8, 1/5sec, Auto white balance




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3. 4m Indoor Beamshot on max. output on 1xPanasonic Eneloop AAA (750mAh) 
- ISO125, F/2.8, 1/10sec, Auto white balance




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The above picture make it look like all lights are not brighter than they actually are. So I took a picture with 1/5sec as below.
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- ISO125, F/2.8, 1/5sec, Auto white balance




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4. 7.0m Indoor Beamshot on max. output on 1xPanasonic Eneloop AAA (750mAh) 
- ISO125, F/2.8, 1/10sec, Auto white balance




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The above picture make it look like all lights are not brighter than they actually are. So I took a picture with 1/5sec as below.
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- ISO125, F/2.8, 1/10sec, Auto white balance




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*Overall Impressions*

• Very high build quality
• Fairly compact for this class of light (very good for a keychain light)
• No anti-roll indentations on the body
• Physical lockout function (i.e.,head)
• No reverse polarity protection function
• 10440 Li-ion is not supported
• No pocket clip is included
• Only one output mode
• No flickering due to PWM and no buzzing sound (i.e., current-controlled circuit)
• Output-runtime efficiency seems very good
• Beam pattern is the focused hot spot with minimal spill 
• Overall beam tint is slightly close to cool white

Olight i3E EOS provided by Olight for review.


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## zs&tas (Jan 7, 2016)

Awesome review , very comprehensive for a little light, I have the green and love it , I will def get more.
Someone has tried 10440 and it worked over on led forum thread.


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## AbnInfantry (Jan 7, 2016)

Thank you for the excellent review.


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## candle lamp (Jan 8, 2016)

zs&tas said:


> Awesome review , very comprehensive for a little light, I have the green and love it , I will def get more.
> Someone has tried 10440 and it worked over on led forum thread.



Thanks for your support and information. If he use 10440 Li-ion cells, he probably won't be able to to use other cells such as Ni-MH and Alkarine. It means he can only use 10440 cells in the light (i.e., the light is driven directly from 10440 due to the fried circuit). 



AbnInfantry said:


> Thank you for the excellent review.



Thanks!


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## Mr. Tone (Jan 8, 2016)

Thanks for the great review. I bought a couple of these from Goinggear a few weeks ago and really like them. I put one on my keychain and one on my wife's. I really like the single output for this use, too. This light is going to make a great gift option for many flashaholics to give to their friends and family.


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## holygeez03 (Jan 8, 2016)

Seems like a winner... mine is still on the way from China... should also make the world's greatest spare AAA carrier!


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## RI Chevy (Jan 8, 2016)

Absolutely awesome review! Extremely thorough. Thanks for taking your time to do this for all of us.


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## bltkmt (Jan 8, 2016)

Do they still make the 3-level version?


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## lightmyfire13 (Jan 8, 2016)

candle lamp said:


> Thanks for your support and information. If he use 10440 Li-ion cells, he probably won't be able to to use other cells such as Ni-MH and Alkarine. It means he can only use 10440 cells in the light (i.e., the light is driven directly from 10440 due to the fried circuit).
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> Thanks!


Not so ....still works fine with eneloops as does my thrunite ti3s


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## RI Chevy (Jan 8, 2016)

bltkmt said:


> Do they still make the 3-level version?


They do, but not the i3e.


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## Capolini (Jan 8, 2016)

THANKS FOR THE REVIEW! 

I like the light. I got it on the 15th of DECEMBER. It is powerful, nice beam pattern,nice and compact. 


The problem I have been having is that it comes on inconsistently. Sometimes it activates, sometimes it will flicker, sometimes it won't come on until several head tightening attempts! Very frustrating! That started happening within a week. The last TWO DAYS IT SEEMS OK,,,,,,,,,,,,,,not sure what is going on!

I have cleaned the light a few times to remove whatever dirt could build up in so short of a period of time.

As long as it keeps working and will be durable...[7 miles/day walking my HUSKY W/ IT ATTACHED TO MY CARABINER!],,,I will be happy!


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## Swedpat (Jan 8, 2016)

Thanks for the review! 

This looks like a nice keychain light. But no low mode! With a single mode it would be better with ~20lm and much better runtime.


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## RI Chevy (Jan 8, 2016)

No light will ever please everyone!


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## candle lamp (Jan 9, 2016)

Thanks for your interest and support! 




lightmyfire13 said:


> Not so ....still works fine with eneloops as does my thrunite ti3s



Oh! It is good news for users and prospective buyers. Look like the light has much higher working voltage than expected. 



Capolini said:


> THANKS FOR THE REVIEW!
> 
> I like the light. I got it on the 15th of DECEMBER. It is powerful, nice beam pattern,nice and compact.
> 
> ...



I'm sorry to hear that. I found my some Eneloops (HR-4UTG : 1'st generation, HR-4UTGB : 3'rd generation) don't work. But 4th generation (BK-4MCC) work just fine. I don't know why some cells don't work. It seems this issue is related to length (4UTG is very slightly longer than newer generation). I'm not sure. Hope yours keeps working well.


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## Capolini (Jan 9, 2016)

candle lamp said:


> Thanks for your interest and support!
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> 
> 
> ...




Thanks,,,,,,,,,,,,mine is getting sporadic again! Your tip about different ENLOOP generations may be the reason.......Mine are HB-4UTGB 750mAh,,,,,,,,I guess that is the 3rd generation from what you posted.

I would guess that the primary batteries[aaa alkaline] are shorter,have to check when I get home!


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## moodysj (Jan 9, 2016)

Why does no one test lights with energizer ultimate lithium primaries but instead always insist on testing with alkalines?


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## RI Chevy (Jan 9, 2016)

Cost? They are expensive.


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## greenlight (Jan 9, 2016)

*Square cut threads*



[*=1]


> [*=1]The screw threads are square-cut of good quality



The square cut threads look fantastic. Everybody's looking for the square cut threads. Are they really just _good_ quality or can we get some input on that?


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## candle lamp (Jan 10, 2016)

*Re: Square cut threads*



moodysj said:


> Why does no one test lights with energizer ultimate lithium primaries but instead always insist on testing with alkalines?



Sometimes I did with the batteries, but it's not easy to get it (or somewhat expensive).



RI Chevy said:


> Cost? They are expensive.



No, it's not. The light is good value for the money, in my view.



greenlight said:


> The square cut threads look fantastic. Everybody's looking for the square cut threads. Are they really just _good_ quality or can we get some input on that?



If screws threads action is smooth with no cross-threading or with no peeling anodizing from their repeated twisting actions, we can say it's good quality. And that is case for all types of screw threads (triangular, trapezoidal, square cut). Also it's good for me to feel with minimum play on the screw threads.


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## RI Chevy (Jan 10, 2016)

I was responding to the question of why testing wasn't done with Energizer Lithium batteries. Not the light.


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## Capolini (Jan 10, 2016)

Mine is definitely defective.It malfunctions with primary batteries also.


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## Steve Curtis (Jan 11, 2016)

I've ordered five which should be with me on Thursday. I'll check they all operate correctly and check for consistency. 
For the record I'll have 4 black and one purple.


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## zs&tas (Jan 11, 2016)

Mine works flawless, used it last night for the trip to the car in a dark restaurant car park. Sure chucks out alot of light. Looking in the head of the light, there are two chips right on the edge of the outer contact ring my bet is the batt tube is shorting on one of those chips and causing you issues. Lets be honest theres not a lot of room for tolerances in this thing, and for ever thousand they get right cap gets the one that dosnt !


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## candle lamp (Jan 11, 2016)

RI Chevy said:


> I was responding to the question of why testing wasn't done with Energizer Lithium batteries. Not the light.



Oh! I did make irrelevant answer. I'm sorry for that and thanks for your answer.



Capolini said:


> Mine is definitely defective. It malfunctions with primary batteries also.



I think so. You need to replace yours.


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## RI Chevy (Jan 11, 2016)

No problem.


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## markr6 (Jan 11, 2016)

Those threads!!! And the size...I may have to try one. $9.99, free 2-day shipping with Prime. Why not.


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## Capolini (Jan 11, 2016)

zs&tas said:


> Mine works flawless, used it last night for the trip to the car in a dark restaurant car park. Sure chucks out alot of light. Looking in the head of the light, there are two chips right on the edge of the outer contact ring my bet is the batt tube is shorting on one of those chips and causing you issues. Lets be honest theres not a lot of room for tolerances in this thing, and for ever thousand they get right cap gets the one that dosnt !




That may be true! The strange thing is it took about 4 to 6 days before this started to happen.Now it is basically useless! It is just the law of averages,that is why it is important to have trust in the dealer! Illumns have NEVER failed me.:thumbsup:

It is a great little torch when it works!

Illumns is sending me another one.That one should work fine!


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## Capolini (Jan 12, 2016)

zs&tas said:


> Mine works flawless, used it last night for the trip to the car in a dark restaurant car park. Sure chucks out alot of light. Looking in the head of the light, there are two chips right on the edge of the outer contact ring my bet is the batt tube is shorting on one of those chips and causing you issues. Lets be honest theres not a lot of room for tolerances in this thing, and for ever thousand they get right cap gets the one that dosnt !



I think he is on to something! Although it is too early to tell, I believe that[ outer chips] is my issue. One of my chips- [12 O'clock chip in his photo below][sorry no pics of mine] seems to be further on the edge than it should be,further and slightly outside the edge of the contact ring which probably did cause it to short out. 

My light was completely tightened,,,,I loosened slightly and put pressure on the light, bending and pulling towards me w/ both my thumbs on either piece of the light! Somehow I did something[wore the edge of the chip a bit?!] and the last 20 or so activations have been successful!:laughing:

We will see what happens from here!






Bottom Right pic. on his review,,,,the 12 o'clock chip on mine is NOT inside the CONTACT RING like his is. Mine is on the outside border and slightly outside of the ring.


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## wolfgaze (Jan 13, 2016)

Thank you for the review! I plan on ordering one of these very soon...


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## 1DaveN (Jan 13, 2016)

moodysj said:


> Why does no one test lights with energizer ultimate lithium primaries but instead always insist on testing with alkalines?



I agree. And I was just wondering to myself how much money the world would save if quality lights didn't come with batteries that informed consumers won't use in them. This Olight is $10 so probably a lot of people will be reluctant to use an almost $2 L92 in it, but what about $40 or $50 lights that come with no-name alkalines?


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## GordoJones88 (Jan 13, 2016)

Needs more Silver.


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## wolfgaze (Jan 13, 2016)

I do like the idea of a little keychain 'blaster' light with a single high output mode (even with a reduced runtime). I do not use my keychain light regularly as I have a primary EDC light on me that gets used as a first option - so having an extended runtime capability is not a major concern to me. The light on my keychain is my backup/reserve for the most part. It's nice to know that you can still have the option have get high illumination output from a tiny light residing on your keys. Right now I'm using a Fenix E05 (2013 version) which puts out 27 lumens.... It's not bad and I like it, but it's also not ideal either...

For the record I am not a huge fan of twisty lights that require two-handed operation and for you to cycle through multiple modes...


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## firsttothescene (Jan 14, 2016)

Why no silver yet? I initially had an order for one and it is no longer on battery junction site.


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## wolfgaze (Jan 18, 2016)

I received mine today... This thing is a little keychain powerhouse of a light... I love how small it is - has to be one of the smallest AAA lights on the market (and I thought my Fenix E05 (2013 edition) was small (this Olight is smaller)...

At just $10, I think I will order two more of these... One to keep as a spare and one to gift to a friend...


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## chf (Jan 18, 2016)

Any news about silver i3E?


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## lightmyfire13 (Jan 20, 2016)

I was told by Amazon seller early February. ..


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## bob4apple (Jan 24, 2016)

I've had a red one for a few days now, and I like it a lot. The tint on mine is snow white. It's so tiny and light as a feather, so it won't add any noticeable weight to your keychain. I tried a 10440 battery, and it roared with that lion, but I could feel the heat in just 5 seconds, so I won't be doing that again. It is more than bright enough with an eneloop anyway.


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## ronako (Jan 25, 2016)

Does this take a 10440 battery and how bright is it?


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## RI Chevy (Jan 26, 2016)

See the post just above you.


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## Steve Curtis (Jan 28, 2016)

I've had a black and purple versions for the past few weeks and have been impressed. The guys I purchased from emailed me today to let me know the silver is now available for order. 
Bravolight store on Amazon have them - or they did have some today.


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## lightmyfire13 (Jan 28, 2016)

Got my silver one today not tried against the black version yet....very shiny .....makes it look a bit cheap IMHO. ...


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## jon_slider (Feb 1, 2016)

candle lamp said:


> … The light shows no sign of PWM. I notice there is no buzzing sound.



thank you
also:
Olight i3E EOS (AAA keychain light) measurements


maukka said:


> *Spectral distribution*


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## cancow (Feb 1, 2016)

I don't get the popularity of these lights. The L3 L08 is FAR higher in quality imo. As I have said before, these feel like a dollar store checkout item.




lightmyfire13 said:


> Got my silver one today not tried against the black version yet....very shiny .....makes it look a bit cheap IMHO. ...


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## Rob Babcock (Mar 15, 2016)

cancow said:


> I don't get the popularity of these lights. The L3 L08 is FAR higher in quality imo. As I have said before, these feel like a dollar store checkout item.




Seriously? Maybe because it's ten freakin' dollars? I just picked on up from Amazon, showed up yesterday. Often I'm behind the times on the little lights since I have been focusing on the Elzetta & Malkoff stuff lately. I can't say much about the long term quality since I just got it but so far I love this light! It does everything I want a keychain light to do and nothing I don't. It's considerably smaller than my Fenix E01 which I've been using for years due to it being one of the smallest AAA lights I've been able to find. The little Olight is vastly brighter than my little Fenix, although obviously run time won't be in the same league. The best part is the tint! It's not as white as my M61 219B Nichia but it's not embarrassed by the comparison.

I'm probably going to pick up a couple more.


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## wolfgaze (Mar 15, 2016)

cancow said:


> I don't get the popularity of these lights. The L3 L08 is FAR higher in quality imo. As I have said before, these feel like a dollar store checkout item.



Well no one buying the I3E EOS for $10 is under the impression that they are getting one of the higher quality AAA lights. That being said, you may get a lot of bang for you buck at the $10 price point. You referenced another model - that model is *0.6 - 0.7* inches longer in length and $10-15 more expensive.... I3E EOS was intended to be a budget light (minimal price point)... If someone is looking for a higher quality AAA light with more features - obviously they would look elsewhere. As for my keychain preferences, I want a AAA light that is as small as possible while still providing good performance. A 3 inch light would not work for me as it relates to my preferences. My I3E replaces my Fenix E05 (2013/14 edition). I do not need long runtimes from my keychain lights as I only use them sparingly in short bursts and have a primary EDC used for 99% of my flashlight needs. 

If I wanted a high quality AAA light with more features I would opt for the Maratac AAA Rev 3 for $35.... (which I just received recently)...


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## KeepingItLight (Mar 15, 2016)

Rob Babcock said:


> Seriously? Maybe because it's ten freakin' dollars?



Lol! I can't argue with that.

In the same category, there are now two budget flashlights that feature high CRI Nichia 219B emitters. The *BLF-348* costs $7 USD in the group buy at BLF, and sports at 5000K emitter. The *Astrolux A01* is around $9 in the group buy at BLF, and has a CCT of 4000K. Of the two, only the Astrolux A01 is a true keychain light. The BLF-348 does not have any attachment point for a keychain.

Thanks, candle lamp, for another excellent review!


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## magellan (May 17, 2016)

holygeez03 said:


> Seems like a winner... mine is still on the way from China... should also make the world's greatest spare AAA carrier!



Yes. I really like mine and bought a couple of extras including one for the wife who likes hers too (especially the purple color ).


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## magellan (May 17, 2016)

A question for the emitter experts, is the Luxeon, being considered to be a "daylight white" tint, warmer than a typical neutral white?


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## RI Chevy (May 17, 2016)

A combination inbetween. It is a nice little emitter.


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## jon_slider (May 17, 2016)

magellan said:


> A question for the emitter experts, is the Luxeon, being considered to be a "daylight white" tint, warmer than a typical neutral white?



The Olight CCT in the graph from Maukka, also posted above:




says the LED tested at 5770K CCT (Kelvin, Color Corrected Tempterature) and 72 CRI. That is in the Cool White and Low CRI categories.

for contrast, here is a 4400K (Neutral White), AND High CRI graph





Notice how much wider the Red spectrum is, and how much taller overall the color bands are. The LED is a Nichia 219b rated for 4500K and 90+ CRI (it actually tested below 90, but specs are allowed 5 points of slop, or "range").

I would not say that daylight is warmer than neutral. Usually people who say daylight, or white, are actually talking about Cool White. Those terms, the way you wrote them are confused, and the terms are not specific, they are just generalizations. Better to know the actual Kelvin Color Temperature.

3000K CCT is Warm, the Olight is definitely not that
4500K CCT is Neutral, again the Olight is definitely not that
5500K+ CCT is Cool, and that is what the Olight tested as.

Tint is not really the accurate term for an LED Color Temperature. Tint is a separate category, it refers to whether the light is tinted green, blue, yellowish or Pink. Tint is separate from Color Temperature, and any color temperature can have a tint shift in any of the shadings above or below the ideal Black Body Curve.

I hope I got all those terms right, or that someone corrects me.

Bottom line, the Olight is a Cool White light. 

here are two 3000K LEDs (Warm White). One has yellow tint, the other has magenta tint





here is the color chart with the ideal blackbody curve, and the various CCT. You can see how green tint sits above the curve, and pink or magenta is below the curve.






here is a more basic representation of Color temperatures.. the Moonlight portion is what we commonly call Neutral White, the blue portion is Cool White, and the yellow portion is Warm.





based on that chart, I would say Neutral White is at 4000K, above is Cool White (Blue), below is Warm (golden or orange). fwiw, a Candle is below 2000K.


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## magellan (May 17, 2016)

Hi Jon, great info, thanks. I saw the color temperature on that graph after I posted. Since 6000 isn't that far from 5700, it's in the cool range as you said. I was thinking that daylight might be in between CW and NW. But of course the common English terms aren't very good as you pointed out. But then, how many flashlight users have some knowledge of spectral analysis? LOL

Anyway, please excuse another possibly noob question, but I was wondering what accounts for the narrow peak in the violet part of the spectrum? Could this emitter then be said to have a violet tint?


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## jon_slider (May 17, 2016)

magellan said:


> please excuse another possibly noob question, but I was wondering what accounts for the narrow peak in the violet part of the spectrum? Could this emitter then be said to have a violet tint?



no need to excuse your interest in learning, I greatly respect that

all our LEDs have that huge blue spike. In their uncoated state, LEDs are basically a blue electric flame. To get more red from an LED, since they do not naturally produce red, a phosphor coating is added. This coating emits red in response to the stimulation from the energy being emited by the LED. The coating increases Color Rendering, but it also lowers the raw brightness.

That is why the Nichia LEDs are less bright than the more typical Cool White LEDs most lights use. Brightness is what marketing promotes to advertise their products, and consumers are trained to compare brightness when considering a flashlight purchase. High CRI is never as bright as low CRI, and Low CRI is never as Red as High CRI. 

A Low CRI LED will always be brighter. Olight sells to the brightness specification. They make zero effort to be able to show natural colors that include red. They dont offer High CRI, which is also less bright.

Basically, whatever colors the LED puts out, can then bounce back to our eyes when they illuminate an object. An LED that puts out very little red, will show very little red on an object that normal sunlight will reflect red from. The sun, and incandescent bulbs, are much more full spectrum, including red, than LEDs. That is why I abandoned LED home lighting, in favor of incandescent. It is also why I carry High CRI lights, and avoid Cool White and low CRI.

disclaimer: I am not an expert, just a slightly educated consumer. Some of what I write could be not completely technically accurate, and I invite better education. These are just my current understandings, of a subject I find interesting, and that I have spent time learning about, from others on this forum.


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## magellan (May 17, 2016)

Again, thanks for the great info; that really helps.

It sounds like if it weren't for the added phosphor the narrow blue band would be the actual spectrum. And so the phosphor adds a lower range that otherwise wouldn't exist.

As for myself, I have cool, neutral, and warm white lights just to try the different emitters and see what they're like. I don't have a strong preference. Since I'm a bit color blind though like a lot of guys color may not be as big a factor for me as it is for others since I might not notice.

interestingly a very small number of women basically have a fourth color cone in their retinas who can see millions of colors. Even a normal person though can see 2000 different shades of yellow-green which is a human's most sensitive area of the spectrum.

One wonders what reptiles and fish see as they can have up to 7 different cones. That must be one riotous visual field.


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## phosphor22 (May 20, 2016)

View attachment 2785


The new copper i3E is beautiful - I wasn't sure i would want one when the light first came out in aluminum, but decided to go for it because I love copper lights; it is fun to have a VERY TINY copper light - even the single blast mode is fun. 
I3S clip fits it fairly well


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## khaleeq (Aug 10, 2016)

Great review. Thankyou. I bought the red one. It does flicker if I make half-hearted attempt to switch it on. But when I am quick, it never flicker. Simply amazed by the performance of such a tiny light. Put my Fenix E01 and E05 to rest for a while after getting spoilt by the size, quality and output of this red Olight I3E. Ordered a copper one. Awaiting delivery. Thanks again for the awesome review.


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## candle lamp (Aug 10, 2016)

khaleeq said:


> It does flicker if I make half-hearted attempt to switch it on. But when I am quick, it never flicker. Simply amazed by the performance of such a tiny light. Put my Fenix E01 and E05 to rest for a while after getting spoilt by the size, quality and output of this red Olight I3E. Ordered a copper one. Awaiting delivery.



If you twist the head (very) slowly, the light may flicker. Please try to clean the threads on the body tube and head. Also close the circuit board in the head tightly by using the tweezers. These may be helpful to solve the flickering.
Thanks for your support and welcome to CPF. khaleeq! :welcome:


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## flips712 (Aug 10, 2016)

Can anyone comment on how these compare to the Lumintop Worm, which I've seen for between $15 to $20?


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## phosphor22 (Aug 10, 2016)

khaleeq said:


> Great review. Thankyou. I bought the red one. It does flicker if I make half-hearted attempt to switch it on. But when I am quick, it never flicker. Simply amazed by the performance of such a tiny light. Put my Fenix E01 and E05 to rest for a while after getting spoilt by the size, quality and output of this red Olight I3E. Ordered a copper one. Awaiting delivery. Thanks again for the awesome review.



I think you will really like the copper; still tiny but the weight of the copper gives it a presence and heft. I have a green one and find the copper easier to use, not to mention the cool patina it has developed.

View attachment 3324


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## khaleeq (Aug 22, 2016)

Dear thankyou for your welcome. I did lubricate the threads, now it is butter smooth and does not flicker.


candle lamp said:


> If you twist the head (very) slowly, the light may flicker. Please try to clean the threads on the body tube and head. Also close the circuit board in the head tightly by using the tweezers. These may be helpful to solve the flickering.
> Thanks for your support and welcome to CPF. khaleeq! :welcome:


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## khaleeq (Aug 22, 2016)

Dear my copper version arrived today. Sadly I am disappointed with it. The light output looks clearly less than my regular red one. When I looked into the face of the light, compared to my red one, its glass looks hazy. Plus when I shine it on a white wall from about 5 feet away, I can see a sort of black dot near the center.


phosphor22 said:


> I think you will really like the copper; still tiny but the weight of the copper gives it a presence and heft. I have a green one and find the copper easier to use, not to mention the cool patina it has developed.
> 
> View attachment 3324


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## phosphor22 (Aug 22, 2016)

khaleeq said:


> Dear my copper version arrived today. Sadly I am disappointed with it. The light output looks clearly less than my regular red one. When I looked into the face of the light, compared to my red one, its glass looks hazy. Plus when I shine it on a white wall from about 5 feet away, I can see a sort of black dot near the center.



Sorry to hear that. Perhaps there is a problem with this one - I have one and gave a friend one - neither copper has the issues that you mentioned. The copper should if anything seem the same or even brighter than the red.


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## sim1tti (Jan 15, 2018)

Thanks for the review (with runtimes). Wondering if you ever had a chance to test the silver or bronze versions with the higher output. Very curious about how the extra lumens effects runtime.


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## terryoregon (Jan 15, 2018)

zs&tas said:


> Someone has tried 10440 and it worked over on led forum thread.



Love the simplicity of this light, my wife has one in her purse. I've squirreled several of these lights, some as future gifts, some for personal use. I also tried a 10440 in one a couple of months ago. It ran much brighter and hotter for about 6 minutes, then it turned off. After that, it was dead. Nothing could revive it. Don't try this experiment unless you're willing to loose one.

Also, Olight may be in the process of discontinuing this light. Only some of the colors are still available on Olight's website. Furthermore, the silver 120 lumens version is VERY difficult to find anymore. Hasn't been available on Amazon or Ebay for some time. I know where they are still available if someone wants to pm me.


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## sim1tti (Jan 16, 2018)

cancow said:


> I don't get the popularity of these lights. The L3 L08 is FAR higher in quality imo. As I have said before, these feel like a dollar store checkout item.



Though it puts out quite a bit of light, seems like the L3 LO8 does pretty poor on runtime, and the levels don't stick around for long (referencing selfbuilt's review). Money aside, I'd still take the i3e over the LO8.


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## Swedpat (Mar 28, 2019)

More than 3 years since I posted in this thread and I recently ordered a bunch of this light at 60% sale. Only available in black. While I still would wish the output could have been lower(half or so) for better runtime I think it's still a good choice to the keychain. A keychain light is mainly used for short time and it can be long time between the occasions, but for these occasions the light can be very valuable! Therefore I consider a lithium battery is the best choice and I will run it with Energizer L92.


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## slipnfall (Apr 5, 2019)

Swedpat said:


> More than 3 years since I posted in this thread and I recently ordered a bunch of this light at 60% sale. Only available in black.



Same here - purchased my green I3E just about two years ago and went searching for a purple one as a gift. I got lucky and found some old shelf stock but super disappointed these seem to be no longer manufactured. Curiously they're on OLIGHT's product page but not listed in their store.


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## Brawny (May 1, 2019)

I guess I was blessed to buy a couple of blacks on the secondary market a few months ago. Still have one in an unopened package.


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## Groundhog (Nov 30, 2019)

*Olight is giving them away for free if you pay $5 shipping*. I had to sign in with Facebook. The e-mail address thing didn't work for me. Not bad for $5.

[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]https://www.olightstore.com/i3e-gift.html[/FONT]


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## db4rings (Dec 7, 2019)

Swedpat said:


> More than 3 years since I posted in this thread and I recently ordered a bunch of this light at 60% sale. Only available in black. While I still would wish the output could have been lower(half or so) for better runtime I think it's still a good choice to the keychain. A keychain light is mainly used for short time and it can be long time between the occasions, but for these occasions the light can be very valuable! Therefore I consider a lithium battery is the best choice and I will run it with Energizer L92.




I read some amazon reviews that some of them loosen up and head falls off. Since youve had them for a long time now, has this ever happened to you?

BTW I agree with you on the energizer ultimate lithium. After ruining a few fenix torches, I stocked up on energizer ultimate lithium $16 for an 18 count at sams club 2 years ago. I keep buying them when they have them on sale. This is the only type of batteries I run as they also nearly double the runtime of alkalines and rechargeables. 

thanks


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