# Surefire Titan T1A Pics & Info



## Sean (May 1, 2009)

*Surefire Titan T1A Review Pics & Info *Update* 90 lumen version*

*Surefire Titan T1A:*
*FEATURES*


Virtually indestructible microprocessor-controlled LED maximizes output and runtime 
Bezel switch provides continuous light output from 0 to 70 lumens 
Precision micro-textured reflector produces bright central beam with a gradually diminishing surround beam 
Corrosion-proof, scratch-resistant aluminum body is hard anodized 
Impact-resistant Borofloat® window protects LED and maximizes light transmission 
Coated split ring ideal for attaching to keys or lanyard 
*UPDATE (January 2014):
It looks like Surefire has discontinued the Titan T1A. I picked up the new version of this light which claims to have a high output of 90 lumens verses the original which had a high output of 70 lumens.
According to my measurements, the new 90 lumen version (at least the one I have) actually puts out 125+ lumens! Very nice upgrade overall! The tint (at least the one I have) is also better. Instead of very cool blue, it's slightly violet in the center with a hint of green in the corona.

Run time test 90 lumen version on high ~1 hour & 50 minutes to 50% (Surefire SF123A exp: 2018):
(hours)minutes)-(estimated lumens)
00:00-126 lumens (estimated)
01:00-124
01:10-124
01:15-124
01:20-124
01:25-120
01:30-117 
01:33-110
01:35-105
01:40-92
01:45-80
01:50-66 (~50% output @ 110 minutes)
01:55-54
01:56-ended test






















Jetbeam RRT01 on the left and the Titan T1A 90 lumen version on the right.

Pros:* Comes in a box with a lanyard and instruction book. Smooth, continuously variable light output operation with a twist of the bezel with detent in off position. One handed operation is not a problem. Light OP reflector. Beam is nice and diffused (kinda like a mini L4). Looks similar to an L1 with an F04 beam diffuser on. Tailcap lug for split ring attachment seems to be more reliable than original Titan attachment. My tests show that the T1A max output is 81 lumens. I was hoping for a bit more (like the 100 lumens the Saint will put out) but its still better than the 70 lumen spec. LED tint is pretty good. Only slightly blue. I was prepared for worse but it is pretty mild. The light output is diffused enough to where this does not matter much. That's saying a lot for someone like me who doesn't like blue LEDs. O-rings provide water resistance, but it is unknown how deep you can go. The body is not knurled but fluted. This seems to work well, especially on a light like this that requires the bezel to be turned. The fluted areas dig nicely into your hand without being overkill.

*Cons:* Split ring is not attached already. Light powers off after 5 minutes if light is within 0-25% range of the _bezel dial_ (not light output). This does not appear to be a major issue as I first though it would be, since 25% of the bezel dial seems to be less than 1 lumen. I've just finished doing a test with the dial turned at what I would say is roughly 25% and the light output does not even equal one lumen (but it's close). The result: the light did not turn off after >10 minutes. Maybe this should be a _pro _after all. I did a second test with the light at what I would consider slightly less than 25% range on the bezel dial and it did turn off. The nice thing is they inscribed caution HOT on the bezel so you can line up the hot wavy lines symbol, etc with the flutes on the body so you know exactly where your 25% cut-off is. The bad thing is all the "Caution HOT Surface" is a bit unnecessary (the light gets warm but not what I would call hot) and clutters up the finish a bit. 

Overall, I like it more than I thought I would. The beam reminds me of the original L4 The cons I had in mind are not the problem I thought they would be, and the nice diffused light output is exactly what I was looking for in a pocket light. 

*Run time test on high 1 hour & 48 minutes to 50% (Panasonic CR123A exp: 2018):*
_(hours)minutes)-(estimated lumens)_
00:00-*81 lumens* (estimated)
01:00-*78 *
01:10-*78 *
01:15-*75 *
01:20-*73*
01:25-*71*
01:30-*68 
*01:32-*66
*01:35*-63 ~ 58 flickering/pulsing begins
*01:40-*53*
01:45-*46*
01:48-*40* (*~50% output @ 108 minutes*)
01:50-*36*
01:55-*30*
02:00-*25
*02:01-*ended test*

At the 01:35 mark the light begins to pulse, I would guess to notify you the battery can no longer maintain full power. If you dial back the brightness the light stops flickering and works normally. While I guess this could be annoying to some, I actually like the idea that it lets you know the light can't achieve full power. Hopefully this "feature" is on purpose. Battery life seems to be an par with other Surefire single cell lights. Unfortunately, it's not 4 hours that Surefire lists on their website (note: The enclosed instructions state 1 hour run-time on high).

*Run time test #2 @ ~45 lumens. 4 hours & 54 minutes to 50% (Panasonic CR123A exp: 2018):
*_(hours)minutes)-(estimated lumens)
_00:00-*45.5 lumens* (estimated)
01:00-*45.5*
02:00-*45.5*
02:30-*45.5*
03:00-*45.9*
03:30-*45.9*
03:45-*46.0*
04:30-*46.0*
04:45-*44* *(light drops out of regulation)*
04:46-*42=>38*
04:47-*37=>35*
04:48-*34=>32*
04:49-*32=>30*
04:50-*29=>27*
04:51-*26*
04:52-*25=>24*
04:53-*23*
04:54-*22 *(*~50% output @ 4 hours & 54 minutes*)
04:55-*21=>20*
04:56-*19*
04:57-*18*
04:58-*17*
04:59-*16*
05:00-*15*
05:01-*ended test*

























































*Titan T1A & Fenix P1D CE:*











*T1A on max vs Fenix P1D CE on medium close up (My tests show T1A is 81 lumens and the Fenix is 67 lumens on medium):*






*Titan T1A max output vs Fenix T1 on low (my tests show 48 lumens):*





*Titan T1A (on the left) set to 9 lumens vs Arc AAA-P @ 9 lumens (per my tests):*






*Here's some shots taken at about 20 feet (manually fixed settings):*

*Fenix T1 on low:*





*Fenix P1D CE on medium:*





*Titan T1A on max:*





*Arc AAA-P:*





*Outdoor Pics **(manually fixed settings)**:*
*
Fenix T1 on low:*





*Fenix P1D CE on medium:*





*Titan T1A on max:*


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## regulator (May 1, 2009)

Sean - You Da Man! Thanks for the pictures! Thank you for putting this together and nice job. I can't wait to get one. I think this UI is going to be great.


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## nekomane (May 1, 2009)

At last! Pics (and very nice ones)! Thank you.


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## PetaBread (May 1, 2009)

:goodjob:


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## DM51 (May 1, 2009)

Fast work getting this up - thanks! Very good photos, providing us with a good look at the light and its capabilities. It looks very neat, with a nice smooth beam.


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## gunga (May 1, 2009)

Great stuff!

Glad the 5 miniute shutoff is less of an issue than expected.

I really like this light, just not the $240 price...

:green:


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## greenLED (May 1, 2009)

gunga said:


> Glad the 5 miniute shutoff is less of an issue than expected.


Ditto. Funny how CPF'ers tend to make a huge fuss over unconfirmed/unverified things that end up being non-issue when the real world feedback comes in. ...and yet, some will continue to complain about it.


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## MorpheusT1 (May 1, 2009)

Cool,


Now who is gonna do the first emitter swap on this thing?

:naughty:



I want mine with a warm white.


Benny


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## Splunk_Au (May 1, 2009)

That's the thinnest tail cap I've seen on a SureFire, hope it stands up to use.
Also it looks totally smooth with no knurling at all, not such a good idea for such a small light.

The blue tint really sucks though, seems like the result of poor heatsinking which causes tint shift.
Or is it generally poor tint selection of leds used for the T1A since other users report the same too?


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## MorpheusT1 (May 1, 2009)

definatively not poor heat sinking in a Surefire.
I have yet to see this.

I believe its the emitters fault...the Titanium TITAN were like this also.



Im hoping someone can open one up.
If its the same method as the Limited version it should be easy.


Benny


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## cy (May 1, 2009)

glad to hear ... the 25% 5 minute turnoff at 1 lumens is a non issue


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## Flying Turtle (May 1, 2009)

I wish they didn't feel the need to print stuff all over it. Kind of dilutes the classiness. Wonder if you could order one in a plain wrapper?

Geoff


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## 4EN[sic] (May 1, 2009)

I like the light and have been waiting for what seemed like forever for it to come out. However, and I would guess I'm not the only one, but I think all the crap inscribed in the top portion looks tacky. Especially for that price. What more do you really need than surefire and .com, and that is already on the side, where it belongs. I just think more black and plain would be classier. That being said, I wish I could afford 2 of them


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## 4EN[sic] (May 1, 2009)

damn turtle, I think we were typing at the same time! I sure would like to see photos of the two titan versions side by side. That would be hot.


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## DaFABRICATA (May 1, 2009)

4EN[sic] said:


> I sure would like to see photos of the two titan versions side by side. That would be hot.


 


*+1:thumbsup:*


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## The Coach (May 1, 2009)

4EN[sic] said:


> damn turtle, I think we were typing at the same time! I sure would like to see photos of the two titan versions side by side. That would be hot.





DaFABRICATA said:


> *+1:thumbsup:*




Be careful what you ask for...........






I don't have one, I swiped this from a review on another forum.


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## :)> (May 1, 2009)

I was concerned about the shut-off and was unsure of its purpose but my guess is that it is meant to stop the battery from being drained in the even the light is turned on accidentally.

If it is 1 lumen or less, I have no issue with it either as these levels are lower than what I would typically use.

I also have to say that I think the light looks great.

Now to get up the scratch to purchase one


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## AardvarkSagus (May 1, 2009)

I still am not sure that I see the point of the auto-shutoff. Those low levels are what I use on the Spartanian II when getting dressed in the morning before work, trying not to wake the wife. Excellent also for late night excursions to the kitchen that occasionally take longer than 5 minutes...

Hopefully someday I will get a chance to see for myself whether this is an issue. The rest of the light looks fantastic, I just am not sure I see the point.


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## cy (May 1, 2009)

T1A's tailcap is a huge improvement over Titan's unreliable rear end.

seems Titan still holds the title of world's best UI


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (May 1, 2009)

Great pictures, thanks Sean! Looks like you got a low serial number.



> That's the thinnest tail cap I've seen on a SureFire, hope it stands up to use.


 
I thought the same thing, the tailcap is so thin it almost looks like it was pressed rather than CNC machined.



> The blue tint really sucks though, seems like the result of poor heatsinking which causes tint shift.
> Or is it generally poor tint selection of leds used for the T1A since other users report the same too?


 
I've seen tint shift due to overdriving on some of my less successful 'experimental' mods. This looks more like a bin issue, the tint doesn't shift much, of course the tint disappears at the dimmest levels as your eyes loose color vision. It will be gone after five minutes then anyway.

I actually like the purple tint on my light after seeing the green alternative on another recent SF.



> Im hoping someone can open one up.
> If its the same method as the Limited version it should be easy.


 
Looking inside the head, there are a couple of phillips head screws on the battery side of the pill. Does this look similar to the Original?



> glad to hear ... the 25% 5 minute turnoff at 1 lumens is a non issue


 
Yep, if you don't need the low levels for more than five minutes at a time, it's not an issue.


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## chakrawal (May 1, 2009)

Is it safe to say that the T1A is capable of running on rechargable RCR123a?


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (May 2, 2009)

> Is it safe to say that the T1A is capable of running on rechargable RCR123a?


 
In my experience, no, it doesn't even light with a fully charged AW rechargeable. However, you might be able to use another chemistry with a lower voltage or partially discharged RCR's as other people have pointed out on the earlier T1A thread.

Anyone else care to 'smoke test' their T1A with a rechargeable?


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## Sean (May 2, 2009)

More pics added including some outdoor pics. Run time test completed as well.


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## DM51 (May 2, 2009)

Sean, thanks again - very good added info and photos. The beam shape is superb IMO. I think I can live with the rather blue-ish tint.

I think this thread belongs in the Reviews section, so if you don't mind I will move it there.


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## Kiessling (May 2, 2009)

Splunk_Au said:


> Also it looks totally smooth with no knurling at all, not such a good idea for such a small light.




The thin grooves on the TITAN are cleverly designed and offer all the grip you want. This was my concern, too, but grip was never a problem with my original TITAN, and I dare to guess it won't be with the new one either, once I get my hands on one.


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## Bucky (May 2, 2009)

Another 'thank you' for the great pics and review. We have all been waiting for a review like this and you have finally provided us all with a great idea of what this light looks like and how it performs.


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## Bucky (May 2, 2009)

Looking at those beamshots some more, if you wanted to carry two small 1X123A SureFire lights and wanted the best of both worlds for indoor and outdoor use, you would be pretty well covered with the flood and UI of the T1A and the spot beam and UI of the E1B.


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## boness (May 2, 2009)

Thanks for the review


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## Zeruel (May 2, 2009)

:thanks: for the review :goodjob:

The beam sure makes the room looked bluish. But I'm sure in the hands of a modder, this might become an ideal EDC. :huh:


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## DimmerD (May 2, 2009)

Nice review! Why does the color look different on the piece that divides the body and head?


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## gswitter (May 2, 2009)

Sean said:


> At the 01:35 mark the light begins to pulse, I would guess to notify you the battery can no longer maintain full power. If you dial back the brightness the light stops flickering and works normally. While I guess this could be annoying to some, I actually like the idea that it lets you know the light can't achieve full power. Hopefully this "feature" is on purpose.


This is a "feature" of the original Titan that I really like. It's indeed a good indicator of a low battery level, but you only have to dial it back slightly to get a constant beam, and you can continue the process as the battery drains further. Subsequently, the Titan has been great for depleting CR2s that will no longer power other lights.


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## EV_007 (May 2, 2009)

Yes, nice work on getting pics up. 

Love the look of the case. Not so crazy about the angry blue, but the smooth spill is very nice.


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## Bucky (May 2, 2009)

DimmerD said:


> Nice review! Why does the color look different on the piece that divides the body and head?



A lot of times different pieces of a flashlight will have slight anodizing variations, especially with HA Type III. As you can see from the pics, it is more apparent from some angles and not so noticeable from other angles. Some companies are better than others at matching, and SureFire is actually one of the best. It's not a perfect science though.


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## Patriot (May 2, 2009)

Sean, great review man! You're pictures and beam comparisons are first class. 


I think my favorite thing about the light is the beam...how smooth it is. I think my least favorite thing about the light is the beam...how blue it is. I'm really jaw dropped that this light came from SF. It's possibly one of the blu-est non-5mm LED's that I've seen in years. Besides that one fairly big concern I like everything else about it.

Thanks for taking the time to put together such a nice review.


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## McGizmo (May 2, 2009)

Thanks for your efforts and the review! :thumbsup:


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## The Coach (May 2, 2009)

Yeah, thanks Sean. :scowl: I had pretty much talked myself out of this light, but now it's back on my lights to get list. :devil:


Seriously, thanks. :wave:


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## Hedgehog (May 2, 2009)

Thanks for the writeup.

Blue beam
Mismatched anodization
$239

I'll definitely pass on this one.


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## Hitthespot (May 2, 2009)

Very Nice looking light. Thanks for the review. It does have a very diffused beam. Perfect for an emergency pocket light in my opinion. I may re-think this one.

Thanks

Bill


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## Phredd (May 2, 2009)

Hedgehog said:


> Thanks for the writeup.
> 
> Blue beam
> Mismatched anodization
> ...



Mostly white beam - very nice flood - great task light - superior UI
Consistent finish in natural lighting
CPF discount or free batteries

Just placed my order.
Are we in the same thread?


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## MorpheusT1 (May 2, 2009)

Whats not to like....

I have ordered one.


Should be shipping tomorrow or tuesday from OpticsHQ


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## Splunk_Au (May 2, 2009)

Every other beamshot aside from the one against a Fenix T1 on low shows the T1A having blue tint, not "mostly white".

Nice flood, true. Very good for indoors but bad for outdoors.

SureFire advertises is as providing "tactical level" light, what kinda tactical tasks do you mean?

Superior UI? Comapred to what?
The GatLight and Spy had this implemented years before this.
You could hardly call using the same method years later "superior" to any length.

Consistent finish in natural lighting? LoL what's that about, sounds like a marketing line from an advert.
Black HA is the easiest to get a match with, much easier than HA Nat. Fenix even managed to match their Olive HA, so SureFire is not "one of the best" with regards to this. But you can't fault SureFire for this I suppose, cos their core users don't really care about such minor issues. They care more about the functionality and durabiity.

Free batteries and CPF discount are available for other lights as well, so no compelling reason there.

I guess it does have some good points, but more are bad. The price point help tip the scale to an overeall negative for me.


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## MWClint (May 2, 2009)

Looks like a very cool white U bin.

swapping a U2SWOH or U2SVOH would be brighter and warmer.

4000K high cri p4 would appear to work very well with that op reflector.


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## Phredd (May 3, 2009)

Splunk_Au said:


> Every other beamshot aside from the one against a Fenix T1 on low shows the T1A having blue tint, not "mostly white".



It can be difficult to judge fine variations in tint based on a digital camera that may be adjusting the photo's white balance, so I'm basing that on the comments, including those comparing this Titan to the original Titan, which I have and know is mostly white.



Sean said:


> LED tint is pretty good. Only slightly blue. I was prepared for worse but it is pretty mild.





Splunk_Au said:


> Superior UI? Comapred to what?
> The GatLight and Spy had this implemented years before this.
> You could hardly call using the same method years later "superior" to any length.



Even if others have had continuously variable output, that doesn't mean it's not a superior UI when implemented again, even perhaps implemented better than before. It is certainly superior to twisting back and forth, clicking and holding, clicking and turning the bezel, etc.



Splunk_Au said:


> Consistent finish in natural lighting? LoL what's that about, sounds like a marketing line from an advert.



Again, he said it looks worse in some photos at certain angles. I take that to mean it will be less noticeable in real life than it appears in the photos.



Splunk_Au said:


> Free batteries and CPF discount are available for other lights as well, so no compelling reason there.



My point here is that it's not really $239. That other lights also cost less than MSRP doesn't change that.

Sheesh! Seems like I hit a nerve.


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## gswitter (May 3, 2009)

Splunk_Au said:


> Superior UI? Comapred to what?
> The GatLight and Spy had this implemented years before this.
> You could hardly call using the same method years later "superior" to any length.


To each his own, I guess. The Titan has the most intuitive and smoothest variable brightness implementation that I've tried to date. I don't know where they get the tactical designation. Further proof that the term "tactical" has become effectively meaningless.

The GatLight did preceed the Titan, though not by that much - the Titan's been out for a year (year and a half?). The Gatlight V3 also combines the radial dial with a forward clicky, which I like. But having owned both, the Titan has a much better ramping implementation. The ramping on my GatLight was not consistent in both directions, and tended to "settle" (for lack of a better term) when I stopped rotating the dial. It also had a tendency to flicker and was very sensitive to too much lubrication.

I'm not sure why you include the Spy. If anything it copied the U2's UI. (Nothing against the Spy - just stating.)


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## cybersoga (May 3, 2009)

I really like the look of this light, but what will it look like after its been on a keychain, rubbing against keys, money in my pocket and dropped a few times? Every aluminium anodised light i've had wore pretty fast in my pocket even with HA, the only light that still looks new is my stainless steel Fenix LD01. How about a comparison with the LD01?


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## Sean (May 3, 2009)

Hedgehog said:


> Thanks for the writeup.
> 
> Blue beam
> Mismatched anodization
> ...



Honestly, while I can understand anyone not liking the bluish tint, I don't understand the comment about the mismatched anodizing. I would like it to match perfectly as well but having owned many HA lights (take a look in my sig line and look at some of the flashlights I have owned in the past). I've rarely found anodizing to match. No matter who makes it. So if this is your criteria, that ok. Unfortunately, you will own few lights. 



cybersoga said:


> I really like the look of this light, but what will it look like after its been on a keychain, rubbing against keys, money in my pocket and dropped a few times? Every aluminium anodised light i've had wore pretty fast in my pocket even with HA, the only light that still looks new is my stainless steel Fenix LD01. How about a comparison with the LD01?



Sorry, I don't own an LD01. As far as the anodizing wearing off, I'm sure that will happen. I wish this light was HAIII-Natural but oh well. I'm going to EDC this light on my keychain but I've only got one other key on there. My car key/remote combo. So it should hold up pretty well like that. I don't like carrying a lot of keys around. 



Splunk_Au said:


> Nice flood, true. Very good for indoors but bad for outdoors.



I'm not sure why. Friends of mine who walk in the dark to their tree stand to hunt use the old ArcAAA 3 lumen model and see fine. So an 80 lumen wall of light is bad outdoors? I've been pleasantly surprised with mine outdoors. 



Splunk_Au said:


> Fenix even managed to match their Olive HA, so SureFire is not "one of the best" with regards to this.



Oddly enough, my Fenix T1 and the P1D CE pictured on the first page with the T1A don't have matching Olive HA







P1D CE head is lighter and dull. Body is a litter darker and noticeably shiny:







To all: Thanks to all for your kind words. I really enjoyed reviewing this light. A mini "L4" in my pocket. How could I not like it. :twothumbs


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## cave dave (May 3, 2009)

Splunk_Au said:


> ...
> Nice flood, true. Very good for indoors but bad for outdoors.
> 
> SureFire advertises is as providing "tactical level" light, what kinda tactical tasks do you mean?...



Depends on your usage. If by "outdoors" you mean sitting on your deck and spotting deer, impressing friends and annoying neighbors, then yes the T1a's floody beam will be bad.

If on the other hand by "outdoors" you mean hiking a trail, finding a good spot to make camp, setting up a tent, rigging up a bear bag, and taking a pee at 4am then the Titan should be just about ideal. Too bad you can't leave it on low for easy location.

Tactical according to surefire is > than 60lm, and I agree with gswitter that the term is pretty much useless in today's market place, heck the TA doesn't even have a spiky bezel or epileptic strobe mode.


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## TITAN1833 (May 3, 2009)

I'm not impressed one bit it,s horrible  :shakehead






























J/K :devil: I'm sure it's a great light but! I just can't afford one ATM :mecry: :mecry:


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## :)> (May 3, 2009)

I have noticed that most of the newer Surefire's that I have owned and do own including U2A's, E1B's, E2DL's, 6PL'S, E1E's and E2E's all have a tint that is biased to the cooler end of the the spectrum. It looks to me that they have decided to focus on the cooler tinted LED's.

I plan to own one eventually after I hear more from the first owners regarding water resistance and performance. I did like the runtimes that were posted in this thread; good regulation and efficiency.


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## dcycleman (May 3, 2009)

not for me, I'll take that P1D


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## TITAN1833 (May 3, 2009)

dcycleman said:


> not for me, I'll take that P1D


You do know Cpfer's take Both right!!! unless it's  out of your price range  that said I have just snagged a LF3XT


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## dcycleman (May 3, 2009)

lol, yeah you are correct, if given unlimited funds I probably would take both. but really, tell me that P1D in olive doesnt look sweet, man I like that for some reason. Too bad, I dont think you can get those anymore. (in olive)


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## TITAN1833 (May 3, 2009)

dcycleman said:


> lol, yeah you are correct, if given unlimited funds I probably would take both. but really, tell me that P1D in olive doesnt look sweet, man I like that for some reason. Too bad, I dont think you can get those anymore. (in olive)


Like I said take a look at the LF3XT for a alternative


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## dcycleman (May 3, 2009)

will do


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## gottawearshades (May 3, 2009)

Sean, 

Thanks for the review of a much-anticipated light.

Smaller than I thought. Nice flood. Nifty box.

Tempting, but with the wintry economic climate and all, I personally can't see dropping that much cash on it right now.


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## DimmerD (May 5, 2009)

I finally got mine yesterday and am really liking it. I was disappointed at first because it wasn't as bright as my EX10, but that quickly diminished after using it a bit. I have noticed a discrepancy between the Surefire website and the instruction manual concerning runtimes. Website claims 4 hours on high, 60 hours on low, instruction manual says max output 1 hour, 1 lumen 60 hours. It appears Sean's review shows it can produce max output for 1 hour, then the brightness starts to diminish. No lanyard here, straight into the pocket for me. I didn't really notice a blueish tint unless you whitewall hunt with it on a lower setting. Also it seems to get pretty warm on high after a few short minutes. And the anodizing looks great in person, it only looks off in pictures.


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## EV_007 (May 5, 2009)

I was playing with my Arc AAA the other day and imagine the T1A to be similar to the floody qualities but with infinite levels. Based on the photos, I may be correct.

The Arc on its own did not look too blue, but white wall hunting or compared to warmer tints side by side it does. Maybe I may have to get a hold of this just for the smooth beam and UI.

Can someone put up a video demonstrating the smooth levels in action?


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## Sean (May 5, 2009)

EV_007 said:


> Can someone put up a video demonstrating the smooth levels in action?



How about this one (start at the 1:40 mark): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poZbsdOUtx8


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## sbebenelli (May 7, 2009)

I got mine today. I think I'll like this light a lot. 

The auto shutoff is a complete non issue. For me personally I will never use the light at the low output that is part of the shutoff. It is very very low. 

Mine has the purple tint like the others seem to have. This is always a disappointment with a new light but in real world use is a non issue. My first HDS EDC was very purple and I carried it for a couple years and always forgot about the tint until I would compare it to a new light I had gotten.

I can see this light being my most used and hard to compete against because I can set it to any level I want.


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## sbebenelli (May 7, 2009)

I've been playing with the auto shutoff to find where the magic spot is and it's at least half as bright as my RA Clicky on it's lowest factory setting.

I can't see how the shutoff feature would affect anyone. It's so low I can't fathom any use for it. 

This of coarse is my personal opinion. :wave:


----------



## RobertM (May 7, 2009)

sbebenelli said:


> I've been playing with the auto shutoff to find where the magic spot is and it's at least half as bright as my RA Clicky on it's lowest factory setting.
> 
> I can't see how the shutoff feature would affect anyone. It's so low I can't fathom any use for it.
> 
> This of coarse is my personal opinion. :wave:



Thanks for the info on the low shutoff. Can you post a picture of your T1A and Ra Clicky side-by-side? I'm kinda debating between the two. I like the fact that the Ra will soon be offered with the High-CRI Seoul  but I love the idea of the Titan's user interface (simple and sweet :twothumbs). Which do you prefer of the two for EDC?

Thanks,
Robert


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## richardcpf (May 7, 2009)

It is just me or the tailcap looks kinda weak, and the spring looks cheap? 

Other than that I like the size and simple design.


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## tygger (May 7, 2009)

sbebenelli said:


> I've been playing with the auto shutoff to find where the magic spot is and it's at least half as bright as my RA Clicky on it's lowest factory setting.
> 
> I can't see how the shutoff feature would affect anyone. It's so low I can't fathom any use for it.
> 
> This of coarse is my personal opinion. :wave:



If so, thats great. According to the manual, the Ra low low factory setting is .33 lumens (120 Clicky). So the Titan auto shutoff point is equal to the lowest setting on the Ra Clicky? Thats pretty darn low.


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## sbebenelli (May 7, 2009)

RobertM said:


> Can you post a picture of your T1A and Ra Clicky side-by-side? I'm kinda debating between the two.
> Robert



Here you go....













RobertM said:


> Which do you prefer of the two for EDC?
> 
> Thanks,
> Robert



I haven't had the Titan for a day yet but as of now I see it replacing the Clicky as my EDC.


----------



## cy (May 8, 2009)

had a chance to play with P1D shown below. a very nice light, but UI is no where near nice as Titan. note comments are base on original Titan, not T1A. 

P1D's UI includes two flashing modes and 3 levels. which has to be cycled thru to find what level light one actually needs. a pita to use, especially in a lowlight situation like a tent. (twist, once for high, twice for turbo, 3 for low, 4 for fast blink, 5 for SOS, then back to high)

vs Titan.. twist to what ever level of light desired instantly. 

Surefire could have easily used a design like Larry's for good attachment point and tailstand too. 



Sean said:


> P1D CE head is lighter and dull. Body is a litter darker and noticeably shiny:


----------



## RobertM (May 8, 2009)

sbebenelli said:


> Here you go....
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks for the comparison pics! That really helps a lot. This new T1A Titan is so tempting  Am I correct in assuming that the Titan has a much floodier beam than the Ra?

Thanks,
Robert


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## sbebenelli (May 8, 2009)

RobertM said:


> Am I correct in assuming that the Titan has a much floodier beam than the Ra?
> 
> Thanks,
> Robert



Yes it's floodier and not as bright as the Ra.

Just buy them both. :nana:


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## Edwood (May 8, 2009)

MWClint said:


> Looks like a very cool white U bin.
> 
> swapping a U2SWOH or U2SVOH would be brighter and warmer.
> 
> 4000K high cri p4 would appear to work very well with that op reflector.



No kidding. I prefer custom and modified lights because at the $240 mark, a premium binned emitter should be a given.


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## Grumpy (May 8, 2009)

How many degrees does the ring turn? I am just wondering if you want a quick maximum blast of light can you get it almost instantly?


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## sbebenelli (May 8, 2009)

270 degrees or 3/4 a turn


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## Phredd (May 8, 2009)

Grumpy said:


> How many degrees does the ring turn? I am just wondering if you want a quick maximum blast of light can you get it almost instantly?



It looks like about 240 degrees. It's not difficult to turn it full blast with one quick turn using two hands.

EDIT: sbebenelli might be right. My method might not be accurate. I put it on my watch and it seemed to go from 12 to 8.


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## sbebenelli (May 8, 2009)

Phredd said:


> It looks like about 240 degrees. It's not difficult to turn it full blast with one quick turn using two hands.
> 
> EDIT: sbebenelli might be right. My method might not be accurate. I put it on my watch and it seemed to go from 12 to 8.




Mine was an estimate eyeballing it.


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## Grumpy (May 8, 2009)

Thanks for the info on how far the control ring moves.


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## kaichu dento (May 8, 2009)

Grumpy said:


> How many degrees does the ring turn? I am just wondering if you want a quick maximum blast of light can you get it almost instantly?


I can go from off to max easily with one twist and in three twists one-handed.


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## tygger (May 9, 2009)

Has anyone tried LiFePO's in the Titan yet? What a shame they didn't make it compatible with rechargeables.


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## sbebenelli (May 9, 2009)

tygger said:


> What a shame they didn't make it compatible with rechargeables.



It shouldn't be no surprise that Surefire does no support rechargeables.


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## brighterisbetter (May 9, 2009)

Thanks for making this review and providing the nice pics in the first post. I'd like to see a higher resolution photo of the original titanium one side-by-side with a T1A. Will probably pick one of these up eventually. I may be the only one, but I _*much prefer*_ the older style swivel/lanyard attachment point than the newer style eyelet.


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## Xanteen (May 10, 2009)

Here's a side-by-side. My Ti Titan is still going strong as my EDC light, btw. Oh, that's a Merkava glow-thingy on there.


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## chakrawal (May 10, 2009)

tygger said:


> Has anyone tried LiFePO's in the Titan yet? What a shame they didn't make it compatible with rechargeables.


Tenergy RCR123A 3V 750mAh works fine but AW LiFePO4 3 Volt does not work could not turn on.


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## DimmerD (May 10, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> I can go from off to max easily with one twist and in three twists one-handed.


I can do it in 2 twists 1 handed, I have large hands.


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## regulator (May 10, 2009)

Thanks Xanteen - thats cool seeing the two side-by-side. Is the brightness the same on the two? both high side and low.


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## jhanko (May 10, 2009)

I have a feeling that the issue with some rechargables not working is a mechanical function, not electrical. Is it possible that some of these rechagables have a larger/shallower + button, and the light design will not allow contact?


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## chakrawal (May 10, 2009)

JHanko said:


> I have a feeling that the issue with some rechargables not working is a mechanical function, not electrical. Is it possible that some of these rechagables have a larger/shallower + button, and the light design will not allow contact?


 That might be the problem because I just look at Surefire and Tenergy RCR123A button compare to AW and it seem that both Surefire and Tenergy appear to be a bit taller. May be the AW button might not make a contact. Any of you that have all these batteries please confirm.


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## MY (May 10, 2009)

What place has the best price for the T1A?


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## sbebenelli (May 10, 2009)

MY said:


> What place has the best price for the T1A?




I think they are all $239. The only way you can get a better deal is free shipping or batteries that some dealers offer.

It's against Surefire policy to sell under retail price.


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## MY (May 10, 2009)

What dealers offer CPF discounts for the light?


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## Xanteen (May 10, 2009)

regulator said:


> Thanks Xanteen - thats cool seeing the two side-by-side. Is the brightness the same on the two? both high side and low.



The total output is similar. The Ti has a slightly more noticeable center spot, but the T1A has a smoother center but its beam is barely tighter overall, like 5% smaller at the edges.

The UI is about the same, I can get the ring spun up to about 95% with one twist on both. The off detent is nice, but I've only had one case of pocket activation with my Ti. The low level auto-shutoff seems like it'll be a drag, but time will tell.

What's funny is that the head of the T1A was warm to the touch after 30 seconds on high, while the Ti remains cool.


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## munchs (May 11, 2009)

Does T1A work on a rcr123(3.7v)? :thinking:

Can anyone confirm if it does? lovecpf If it does it's the one for me, I guess


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## chakrawal (May 11, 2009)

munchs said:


> Does T1A work on a rcr123(3.7v)? :thinking:
> 
> Can anyone confirm if it does? lovecpf If it does it's the one for me, I guess


It does not work with AW both RCR123 3.7V and LiFePO4 3V but it works with Tenergy RCR123A 3.0V 750mAh LiFePO4.
Just found out that it is a contact issue. Just put a small piece of magnet on top of AW button and the problem solved. Both 3.7V and 3V works fine with T1A Titan.


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## munchs (May 11, 2009)

chakrawal said:


> It does not work with AW both RCR123 3.7V and LiFePO4 3V but it works with Tenergy RCR123A 3.0V 750mAh LiFePO4.


 
I wonder if it's the circuit issue or contact isssue...?


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## chakrawal (May 11, 2009)

munchs said:


> I wonder if it's the circuit issue or contact isssue...?


It is a contact issue because I just put a small piece of magnet on top of the button and both AW 3V and 3.7V work fine with Surefire T1A Titan.
I tried both 3.7V and 3V with T1A and it seem that 3.7V give a bit more output.


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## jhanko (May 12, 2009)

chakrawal said:


> It is a contact issue because I just put a small piece of magnet on top of the button and both AW 3V and 3.7V work fine with Surefire T1A Titan.
> I tried both 3.7V and 3V with T1A and it seem that 3.7V give a bit more output.



Thanks for confirming this. Does it still go as low with the 3.7v cell as it does with a primary?


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## chakrawal (May 12, 2009)

JHanko said:


> Thanks for confirming this. Does it still go as low with the 3.7v cell as it does with a primary?


 Yes, it still go as low as a primary.


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## joema (May 12, 2009)

Xanteen said:


> ...What's funny is that the head of the T1A was warm to the touch after 30 seconds on high, while the Ti remains cool.


That's likely because thermal conductivity of Ti is about 1/10th that of Al. There are pros & cons to each. Ti has a aesthetic "warm" feel to the touch, whereas Al is often cold feeling. 

However heat dissipation is a crucial issue for LED lights, so that's a greater challenge for Ti. The heat must go somewhere. If the surface feels cool after 30 sec on high, that means the heat is just trapped inside.


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## Bullzeyebill (May 12, 2009)

Sean, like I said in another thread, I am glad to see you posting more. Thanks for this review. Question, would you do a runtime with the T1A running at about 60 lumens? I think that we would see a nice flat runtime at that lumen number.

Bill


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## Sean (May 12, 2009)

Bullzeyebill said:


> Sean, like I said in another thread, I am glad to see you posting more. Thanks for this review. Question, would you do a runtime with the T1A running at about 60 lumens? I think that we would see a nice flat runtime at that lumen number.
> 
> Bill



Thanks for the kind words. I could do another runtime test this weekend but are you sure you want it to be 60 lumens? The difficulty is in finding any specific value twice. You know what I mean? You would need to put a mark on the light to show you where 60 lumens is (once you found it), otherwise you would never find it again. Even though I can find 60 lumens, it is still estimated since I don't have an IS.


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## richardcpf (May 12, 2009)

Yeah the tailcap looks weak...


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## sbebenelli (May 12, 2009)

richardcpf said:


> Yeah the tailcap looks weak...



With the tailcap off it would bend if you stepped on it. With it screwed on the light how would or could the tailcap be a problem?


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## Bullzeyebill (May 12, 2009)

Sean said:


> Thanks for the kind words. I could do another runtime test this weekend but are you sure you want it to be 60 lumens? The difficulty is in finding any specific value twice. You know what I mean? You would need to put a mark on the light to show you where 60 lumens is (once you found it), otherwise you would never find it again. Even though I can find 60 lumens, it is still estimated since I don't have an IS.



Estimated is ok with me. I do bounce with a lightmeter for my estimated lumen numbers, comparing to other lights with known lumen numbers. It does not have to be 60 lumens, but some output level below the highest level, though not too low. Thanks,

Bill


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## munchs (May 13, 2009)

chakrawal said:


> It is a contact issue because I just put a small piece of magnet on top of the button and both AW 3V and 3.7V work fine with Surefire T1A Titan.
> I tried both 3.7V and 3V with T1A and it seem that 3.7V give a bit more output.


 
Thanks a lot! That is a great news to me:twothumbs

Now I have a saving money issue...:green:


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## Sean (May 13, 2009)

richardcpf said:


> Yeah the tailcap looks weak...


 
It's certainly not as strong as an M series tailcap, but I don't know how strong a light this small really needs to be. I'm personally not concerned because: 
(1) I want the light as small & light as possible, so I wouldn't expect it to be super thick. 
(2) Surefire's warranty will cover any issues I may encounter with the tailcap.


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## Sean (May 13, 2009)

Bullzeyebill said:


> Estimated is ok with me. I do bounce with a lightmeter for my estimated lumen numbers, comparing to other lights with known lumen numbers. It does not have to be 60 lumens, but some output level below the highest level, though not too low. Thanks,
> 
> Bill


 
As long as I get time this weekend and don't forget, I'll do another test. I may do 60 lumens but I'm also curious about 45 lumens. I might just do 60 so I don't have to wait as long.  We'll see.


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## regulator (May 13, 2009)

I like the 45 lumen idea. But the 60 is ok too. Once the light is backed off to a range that the emitter is working at a more efficient point, the runtime goes up without loosing much noticable brightness. More energy is output as light rather than heat.


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## AvidHiker (May 15, 2009)

joema said:


> That's likely because thermal conductivity of Ti is about 1/10th that of Al. There are pros & cons to each..


 
Ah, but the thermodynamics don't end there! Ti also has about half of the heat capacity of Al, which means for a given amount of energy absorbed, Ti will heat up considerably more (I'm not a physics expert, but these two factors will both influence the rate of heating - capacity accelerating it, conductivity slowing it). In my experience, it doesn't take very long for Ti to heat up (even with my S27PD, which is quite a brick of Ti compared to the Titan).



joema said:


> Ti has a aesthetic "warm" feel to the touch, whereas Al is often cold feeling.


 
I have several Ti lights, can't say I've really noticed this. A bare Al surface maybe, but most Al lights are anodized which I feel might slow the conductivity a bit. Anyway, IMO, the difference must be fairly subtle.



joema said:


> However heat dissipation is a crucial issue for LED lights, so that's a greater challenge for Ti. The heat must go somewhere. If the surface feels cool after 30 sec on high, that means the heat is just trapped inside.


 
Indeed, the cooler you keep your emitter, the more efficient. Most designers of Ti lights take this into consideration though, so my impression is that it's much less of an issue that many make it out to be (of course, nobody is designing barnburners in Ti).

Interestingly, I recall reading some users report that their Ti Titan heated up very quickly on high, while others reported just the opposite. There may have been a manufacturing issue there with heat sinking, my Ti Titan heats up pretty quickly on high (I would be concerned if it didn't).


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## Sean (May 16, 2009)

Run time test #2 @ ~45 lumens added to first post. 4 hours & 45 minutes in regulation. 4 hours & 54 minutes to 50%.


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## regulator (May 16, 2009)

Thanks Sean for the second runtime test. The regulation is nice and flat and the runtime looks good as well. I see myself using this light more in the low and medium settings and like to get good runtime. 

Now I just need to get my hands on one! I wonder how long before Surefire starts shipping them in numbers. Since this is a production piece that has been in development for some time, I wonder why only a small amount was shipped to dealers rather than a complete shipment. That doesn't seem cost effective. I wonder if they are still concerned about issues poping up? Oh well, I have to wait.


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## Sean (May 16, 2009)

regulator said:


> Thanks Sean for the second runtime test.


 
No problem. :thumbsup:



regulator said:


> Now I just need to get my hands on one! I wonder how long before Surefire starts shipping them in numbers. Since this is a production piece that has been in development for some time, I wonder why only a small amount was shipped to dealers rather than a complete shipment. That doesn't seem cost effective. I wonder if they are still concerned about issues poping up? Oh well, I have to wait.


 
You can now purchase these directly from surefire.


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## bmstrong (May 18, 2009)

Wait, they made a Titanium version of this new one? Or am I not reading this right?


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## Sean (May 18, 2009)

bmstrong said:


> Wait, they made a Titanium version of this new one? Or am I not reading this right?



A few years ago they made a limited run of 1000 of these in titanium using one CR2 cell and retailed for $500. The newest version (T1A) is made of aluminum and uses one CR123 cell.


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## DM51 (May 18, 2009)

I just received mine. I'm very impressed with it - it has a very solid feel to it, and the operation is nice and smooth. Overall finish is excellent.

As Sean has pointed out, this uses a CR123A cell, compared to the Titanium version's smaller CR2. Despite that, the T1A is not much larger. As a comparison, the T1A is almost exactly the same size as a Nitecore EX10 - the 2 lights are same length, but the EX10 is 1 mm thicker.


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## cy (May 20, 2009)

here's a pic of titan next to Li14430 for size comparison
original titan had a unreliable magnetic lanyard attachment. 














bmstrong said:


> Wait, they made a Titanium version of this new one? Or am I not reading this right?


----------



## THE_dAY (May 20, 2009)

cy said:


> here's a pic of titan next to Li14430 for size comparison...



For size comparison?!
LOL, I'm pretty sure 99.99% of us have never seen a Li14430 before.

You show off!:nana:


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## tsl (May 20, 2009)

THE_dAY said:


> LOL, I'm pretty sure 99.99% of us have never seen a Li14430 before.


 
Here's some info on the Li14430:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/59911

Looks like it's long gone (custom run from 2004?)


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## THE_dAY (May 20, 2009)

Hey thanks for the link, they have some great pictures!

I'm actually one of the .01% that do know about it :nana:

I was just messing with Cy, I thought is was kinda funny to use for a size comparo pic.. great pic nonetheless!


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## TITAN1833 (May 20, 2009)

hi guys I think you will find it's a flashlight,not a battery  and FWIW it's from a run of Muyshondt Aeon BTW andrewwynn loved them nuff said


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## jeffb (May 20, 2009)

Actually Cy's Li14430 was a "custom" light made in very small quantities by a 
highly regarded CPF member TVODRD. Larry's creations were the inspiration
for both Endeavours (Muyshondt) and Doug Specks "Firefly" series of lights.

click here

I have received the Surefire T1A and it has become my EDC, due to size and variable brightness. I enjoyed the Ti Titan 005, but prefer the new T1A


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## Frenchyled (May 21, 2009)

REceived mine yesterday...here my first impressions :

PROS :Nice finished, smoother operation than Titanium Titan, nice black look.

CONS : At low distance, black hole in the beam (not in the titanium Titan). I dislike the cold white vs my Titanium warm one. More floody than the Titanium, seems that the Titanium is brighter than the T1A (just an illusion ? )

I like them both, but I am a little disappointed by the beam quality of the T1A. I am sure that with a R2 led it would be better


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## Bullzeyebill (May 21, 2009)

Sean, would you please post lux at one meter reading for the Ti Titan, and the T1A?

Bill


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## Frenchyled (May 21, 2009)

I did it...and I am not happy with the result...it's a proof that the T1A is more floody than the Titan ... or I am not lucky at the Led lotery ...

T1A at 1meter = 350 lux 
TiTan at 1 meter = 730 lux


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## Bullzeyebill (May 21, 2009)

Frenchyled said:


> I did it...and I am not happy with the result...it's a proof that the T1A is more floody than the Titan ... or I am not lucky at the Led lotery ...
> 
> T1A at 1meter = 350 lux
> TiTan at 1 meter = 730 lux



Thank you.

Bill


----------



## Kiessling (May 21, 2009)

My T1A is also way more floody than the ti Titan and it also has a donut for about 50cm downrange until it blends and is gone.

I am not sure if this intended or not though. I like the floody beam, but as Frenchy said, the to Titan has a way brighter hotspot.

bernie


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## Sean (May 21, 2009)

Strange, my T1A does not have a donut/black hole at all. Hotspot is very diffused but it is there. This is definitely not a light for people who want a lot of throw.


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## regulator (May 21, 2009)

Boy I am a little concerned about all the mention of the flood beam. I don't want something that is too floody. Anyone have any comparision to a Bitz? To me the Bitz was about the floodiest I prefer in a beam. It was a good balance. I don't expect the Titan to be a thrower by any means but I like a little bit of throw/hotspot too.


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## jeffb (May 21, 2009)

I compared to an Alum. Bitz. T1A is slightly more floody, however the Titan T1A does have a hot spot at shorter distances. Bitz seems marginally brighter with a primary. The tint of the Titan is much more toward blue, when comparing and making comparisons difficult to my eyes.


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## regulator (May 21, 2009)

jeffb said:


> I compared to an Alum. Bitz. T1A is slightly more floody, however the Titan T1A does has a hot spot a shorter distances. Bitz seems marginally brighter with a primary. The tint of the Titan is much more toward blue, when comparing and makes comparisons difficult to my eyes.


 
Thanks for the comparison to the Bitz. Maybe it wont be too bad if it is only slightly floodier than the Bitz.


----------



## willrx (May 21, 2009)

Kiessling said:


> My T1A is also way more floody than the ti Titan and it also has a donut for about 50cm downrange until it blends and is gone.
> 
> I am not sure if this intended or not though. I like the floody beam, but as Frenchy said, the to Titan has a way brighter hotspot.
> 
> bernie



Mine has the donut also. I'd like to know if it was intended or if it should be sent to SF for replacement/adjustment.


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## sbebenelli (May 21, 2009)

Mine has no donut hole at all. The T1A is a FLOODY light. If you don't like flood this isn't the light for you.


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## dtsoll (May 22, 2009)

Just spoke to cust serv over at surefire, if I had ordered from them directly the estimated ship date would be mid june. I'm thinkin about it! Doug


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## RobertM (May 23, 2009)

So has anyone opened up his or her Titan T1A yet (inside the bezel)?


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## regulator (May 24, 2009)

Does the top part of the bezel twist off to get at the reflector? It looks like the bezel is two pieces. Also, someone mentioned that there is screws for the pill. Does anyone know if it looks like it can be opened/modded? Thanks.


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## Kilovolt (May 28, 2009)

The tint of T1A is definitely cooler than the one of my original Titan, there's no trace of a donut even at short distance and no artifacts can be seen in the beam. Surely floodier than the titanium sibling, the hotspot is much less defined.









I am very happy I got them both.


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## tygger (May 30, 2009)

Mine has a doughnut hole as well and the LED is noticeably off center. I'll probably seek a replacement, something I never do. Other than that it seems like a great light. Just a little disappointed with something as simple as emitter placement slipping through QC.


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## Bullzeyebill (May 30, 2009)

regulator said:


> Does the top part of the bezel twist off to get at the reflector? It looks like the bezel is two pieces. Also, someone mentioned that there is screws for the pill. Does anyone know if it looks like it can be opened/modded? Thanks.



Maybe change out the reflector to a smooth one. Shame to waste all of those lumens on flood, as it won't be doing well in ambient lighting. Really close in would be ok, but lots of AAA lights can do that.

Bill


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## regulator (May 30, 2009)

Bullzeyebill said:


> Maybe change out the reflector to a smooth one. Shame to waste all of those lumens on flood, as it won't be doing well in ambient lighting. Really close in would be ok, but lots of AAA lights can do that.
> 
> Bill


 
That is what I was thinking. The SSC LED is pretty smooth to begin with and ALL flood and no throw is not a good thing. Then again, I do not even own a T1A to make a judement. I do like a good amount of flood in a small light. But there were a couple that I used to own (with Seoul LED) that I did not like at all because they were all flood and seems dim because of this.

I have recently purchased a UK 4C SL4 that uses a Seuol LED with smooth reflector and the beam is very smooth and throws very well. I will post a write up soon on that one since I have never seen one done here on that light before. It is the newest version rated and 116 lumens (which is probably out the front).

Anyways, I really like the UI and style of the T1A. I also like the way the light operates and there is no gap between the head and body when in Off or On. No way of the head comming off when in off position.


----------



## joema (May 31, 2009)

Bullzeyebill said:


> Shame to waste all of those lumens on flood, as it won't be doing well in ambient lighting. Really close in would be ok, but lots of AAA lights can do that...Bill


I have a T1A and to a certain point I agree. I don't understand why Surefire made the beam so floody. 

Beam design of any light is a compromise. The T1A beam works very well for close-range tasks. E.g, reading a book, looking in a dark closet, etc.

However more general-purpose beams can still do that, while retaining some longer-range characteristics. E.g, the original U2 beam was a masterpiece -- it had a hotspot, but the spillbeam was so bright it worked decently at close range, while retaining mid and medium-long range capability.

Personally I would have tweaked the T1A beam to be _slightly_ more throw-oriented. This could have been done with minimal impact to its close-range capability.

On a positive note, the T1A beam is aesthetically nice -- very smooth with no artifacts (except below about 12 inches). The brightness control is totally smooth and visually linear. Control feel isn't gritty or sticky. The low level is incredibly low -- I'd estimate about 0.003 lumens. There's no flicker at all.

The T1A is a great EDC light, especially strong for shorter-range tasks. Anything requiring dim illumination with fully dark-adapted eyes is another strong point.

The problem is "EDC" implies you might use it for anything. Statistically you're more likely to need short-range illumination. But say you need to illuminate your car across a dark parking lot -- that kind of thing. The T1A is weak on that, whereas other common EDC lights (say the Ra) have some medium/long-range capability while retaining close-range ability.

I think Surefire could have retained 90% of its close-range capability with a slightly more general-purpose, throw-oriented beam design. Say about 1/2 way between the current T1A and U2, or 1/2 way between the T1A and Ra lights. It just needs a _little_ more distinct hotspot, while retaining a very bright spillbeam.

Maybe after I use my T1A several more weeks I'll change my mind, but that's my current opinion.


----------



## Kiessling (May 31, 2009)

I agree with joema. The beam of the original Titan would have been ideal.
I don't think the focussed and narrow spill of the U2 could have been achieved with the small refelctor in the Titan.
bernie


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## Frenchyled (May 31, 2009)

+1 !!

I would be very happy if my T1A had my Ti Titan beam....Because I prefer the smooth action of the T1A and the beam of my Ti Titan...  Never happy isn't it


----------



## regulator (May 31, 2009)

I wonder if the reflector can be removed. And if it can be removed, is there anything available that would provide just a bit more focus. This is the only thing that has me in a holding pattern right now.


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## MattK (Jun 2, 2009)

Nicely done - I really like that you put in some 'real world' beamshots along with the white wall stuff.


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## EV_007 (Jun 17, 2009)

You guys suck. lovecpf

Bad influence ya'll are I tells ya. 

I just placed an order with Mike to get my hands on my own copy. 

I'll post impressions and beamshots possibly added to this thread if its ok with the OP as not to clutter the boards with Titan TIA posts? Or a separate one started is fine with me as well. 

The non flickering and low low is gonna be awesome.


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## Sean (Jun 18, 2009)

EV_007 said:


> I'll post impressions and beamshots possibly added to this thread if its ok with the OP as not to clutter the boards with Titan TIA posts?



By all means, post away!


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## Palestofwhite (Jun 18, 2009)

Just ordered one from BugOutGear. I sure hope mine turns out fine.


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## tygger (Jun 19, 2009)

Returned my T1A due to a severely off-center emitter but Surefire (fixed/replaced?) it pronto with great customer service. The replacement emitter is still off center but much better than before. Man, the UI on this thing is pretty amazing and so easy to use one handed. It may not be a hardcore thrower but its definitely not pure flood. Just about perfect beam profile for close to medium range tasks.


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## tygger (Jun 19, 2009)

Does anyone know the dimensions of the tailcap O-ring? I like to have spares on hand just in case.


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## EV_007 (Jun 22, 2009)

So I just received mine in the mail today. I haven't been this excited about a new light since the U2 came out.

Multi-level, small, compact light that I can have on me at all times is my requirements for LEDs. This may be the ticket.

I was preparing myself for the angry blue I've heard reported from some owners. So I twisted it on and held my breath... WOW! No angry blue here folks. Looks very white, not blue, or purple or green for all that matter. Best way to describe the beam color is clean. The low is very low, which is awesome. Ramping it up with smooth gradation of brightness is just excellent. The indent to the lowest before shutting off is genius.

I was really worried about the angry blue and the low not being low enough.

The lowest light I have is a photon with a low low, but the Titan T1A goes much lower. And no PWM flickering crap either. 

Floody, clean beam with smooth regulated brightness levels. This may be my new EDC. It won't replace my incans for long range full specturm duty by any means, but then again that's not what it was designed to do. 

Being able to use the low level and twisting it as needed for more light from the off position will be the biggest benefit. Especially when at the theater or restaraunt. My other three level light defaults to the medium PWM mode which is too bright and I would often times have to shield the light until I bumped it down to the low mode, which was still a bit too high and flicker city, which attracted attention.

Stay tuned for pics coming soon.


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## Bullzeyebill (Jun 22, 2009)

EV_007, if you have a lightmeter would you check lux on highest setting at one meter. I have been on the fence regarding this light as it apparently has well under 1000 Lux at one meter on high, and I am thinking that with 60-70+ lumens that I want some ability to use in daylight under the hood, for example, or in high ambient light areas for at least close up work. I would think that decent lux on high would really complement the T1A making it more EDC able, from a low low to a not too bright, but practable high, or am I just shooting in the dark and expecting too much?

Bill


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## EV_007 (Jun 22, 2009)

Bullzeyebill said:


> EV_007, if you have a lightmeter would you check lux on highest setting at one meter. I have been on the fence regarding this light as it apparently has well under 1000 Lux at one meter on high, and I am thinking that with 60-70+ lumens that I want some ability to use in daylight under the hood, for example, or in high ambient light areas for at least close up work. I would think that decent lux on high would really complement the T1A making it more EDC able, from a low low to a not too bright, but practable high, or am I just shooting in the dark and expecting too much?
> 
> Bill



I have a camera light meter, not a sphere or any specialized light meter ala CPF style.

The high is pretty bright actually. Close up work within a few feet should be fine. Although the narrower spectrum nature of LED may get washed out in shaded areas under daylight.


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## Splunk_Au (Jun 22, 2009)

Any of you titan owners experienced this? How common is it?


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## Kilovolt (Jun 23, 2009)

Bullzeyebill said:


> EV_007, if you have a lightmeter would you check lux on highest setting at one meter. I have been on the fence regarding this light as it apparently has well under 1000 Lux at one meter on high, and I am thinking that with 60-70+ lumens that I want some ability to use in daylight under the hood, for example, or in high ambient light areas for at least close up work. I would think that decent lux on high would really complement the T1A making it more EDC able, from a low low to a not too bright, but practable high, or am I just shooting in the dark and expecting too much?
> 
> Bill


 
My reading at one meter is 550 lux. I am not sure though that this is a right way of measuring a light that practically has no hotspot.


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## Bullzeyebill (Jun 23, 2009)

Kilovolt said:


> My reading at one meter is 550 lux. I am not sure though that this is a right way of measuring a light that practically has no hotspot.



If that is the highest reading then you did your best. If lux remains fairly high in the flood then that is good. I would prefer more lux, but the reflector and fairly small head probably do not allow much in the way of high lux. Just the way it is.

Bill


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## DimmerD (Jun 23, 2009)

Splunk_Au said:


> Any of you titan owners experienced this? How common is it?



No. Only flickering is when I had it on hi and the battery got low, it was just the battery warning.


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## Sean (Jun 23, 2009)

Splunk_Au said:


> Any of you titan owners experienced this? How common is it?



Never had any problems and I've been through several battery changes. Maybe this was the problem that delayed the T1A originally?


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## Splunk_Au (Jun 23, 2009)

It's kinda wierd though, seems like this wasn't from the first run. Otherwise why wouldn't it have been posted till now.


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## Palestofwhite (Jun 25, 2009)

Hello everyone,

How do you guys carry your T1A? Besides the given keyring and lanyard? What could be a better way to attach your keys to this light?

Thank you.


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## tygger (Jun 25, 2009)

Mine rides in the loose change pocket every day. Too big and heavy for the keychain. A small (horizontal) belt holster would be nice.


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## Palestofwhite (Jun 25, 2009)

I was thinking if a shorter strap with another hook at the end will make it better... Not too sure if the dangling keys will scratch it up.


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## DimmerD (Jun 25, 2009)

Right hand pocket with my rubber coated USB flash drive. It's only fallen out twice, luckily both times in my car. Only falls out of gym shorts pockets, never work atire.


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## Rossymeister (Jun 25, 2009)

This Light Looks Very Interesting... But Regarding The Cool Tint..

Does Anyone Have Beamshots Comparing The LS20 And The T1A Titan?


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## brighterisbetter (Jul 13, 2009)

cy said:


> here's a pic of titan next to Li14430 for size comparison


I was almost fooled for a moment. Thought this was a Muyshondt Nautilus till I re-read the description and noticed how slender it was, also the head was a giveaway. 

Speaking of the Nautilus, anyone who owns both a Nautilus and a T1A care to take a side-by-side pic for size comparison?


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## redryder (Jul 14, 2009)

*SF Titan T1A tints?*

Other threads mention the Titan T1A having a bluish tint. Is this the tint to be expected(most common)? Also, has anyone tried to get Surefire to exchange their Titan for another tint? Thanks.


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## DM51 (Jul 14, 2009)

*Re: SF Titan T1A tints?*

I'm merging your post into another recent Titan T1A thread.


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## dchao (Jul 14, 2009)

*Re: SF Titan T1A tints?*

Most T1A's come with a cool tint LED.

Cooler tint is useful as a working light in a fixed lighting environment (tungsten, fluorescent, street mercury light), it helps to create a stark contrast.

It works quite well for a light that has flood beam and not a lot of throw.


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## Andrey (Jul 19, 2009)

Any ideas where to get filter attachment compatible with T1A?
I am thinking of using it as a headlamp (on the side of headband) with optional red filter.


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## Size15's (Jul 19, 2009)

Andrey said:


> Any ideas where to get filter attachment compatible with T1A?
> I am thinking of using it as a headlamp (on the side of headband) with optional red filter.


So-called "white" light LEDs produce very little red light.
Using a red BeamFilter to remove everything except for the red light will result in a very dim red light.
I think it'd be more effective to purchase a dedicated Red LED light such as a Princeton Tec Pilot (Red) which is specifically designed to attach to a headband.


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## Andrey (Jul 20, 2009)

Size15's said:


> So-called "white" light LEDs produce very little red light.
> Using a red BeamFilter to remove everything except for the red light will result in a very dim red light.
> I think it'd be more effective to purchase a dedicated Red LED light such as a Princeton Tec Pilot (Red) which is specifically designed to attach to a headband.



Thank you for your advise, Al. I did not know that Pilot is available with red LED. Will definitely get one.
I understand inefficiency of using a filter instead of emitter of desired color and already waiting for arrival of ZebraLight H501R.
The idea of continuously regulated red light fascinates me and I really like to experiment with it.
Usually the amount of red light required is very low. Thus dim output with filter should not be an issue in this case.


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## Dude Dudeson (Jul 20, 2009)

Andrey said:


> Thank you for your advise, Al. I did not know that Pilot is available with red LED. Will definitely get one.
> I understand inefficiency of using a filter instead of emitter of desired color and already waiting for arrival of ZebraLight H501R.
> The idea of continuously regulated red light fascinates me and I really like to experiment with it.
> Usually the amount of red light required is very low. Thus dim output with filter should not be an issue in this case.



Depends. It's said that LED's put out monochromatic light - well I doubt it's as monochromatic as a laser pointer, but if it IS truly monochromatic you'd be getting practically nothing once you slapped a filter on there.

Long ago I tried putting a piece of blue glass in front of a red laser pointer - it may as well have been opaque black...

EDIT: I still don't understand how white light could be monochromatic though - "not full spectrum", yes, but IIRC you can't get white light without mixing colors...


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## zven (Jul 20, 2009)

Dude Dudeson said:


> Depends. It's said that LED's put out monochromatic light - well I doubt it's as monochromatic as a laser pointer, but if it IS truly monochromatic you'd be getting practically nothing once you slapped a filter on there.
> 
> Long ago I tried putting a piece of blue glass in front of a red laser pointer - it may as well have been opaque black...
> 
> EDIT: I still don't understand how white light could be monochromatic though - "not full spectrum", yes, but IIRC you can't get white light without mixing colors...



White light is indeed not monochromatic. Your average white LED is putting out a basically continuous spectrum - it's just not an evenly balanced spectrum. Rather than sunlight, which puts out a lot of green/yellow light, and a bit less blue and red, white LEDs put out a bunch of blue, less green/yellow, and fairly little red. Our brains still blend this to (basically) white, but the use of different color filters will show you that different parts of the spectrum are lit with different intensities.

For a visualization of what I'm saying, go to the LED forum here (straight up LEDs, not LED flashlights), and go to the thread for spectrographic analyses of different lights.


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## Bullzeyebill (Oct 3, 2009)

I am using Sean's thread to talk about my T1A's. Today I got my second T1A, yesterday I got my first one. One is from LA Police Gear, and the other from one of our fellow CPF'ers. My first one surprised me, and I kept looking for the purple, or blue that everybody was talking about, and found none in this light. A very nice, sort of warm white, bringing out the reds in colors very well. My second T1A has a rose tinted beam, not unpleasant but noticeable compared to some of my other lights using the Seoul P4. I am having no problems with the 5 minute cutoff. The 25% of so of the head rotation that has that feature is almost useless for output anyway. The beams are nice and full, and just perfect for closeup work with no bothersome high lux, sort of a mini L4, and I have had three of them. Lux at 1 meter for both lights is about 500 lux, not a lot, but excellent for close up work, and easy on the eyes. 

My overall impression is that the T1A's are great little lights, and I finally have some small light(s) where I can control the output easily. Right now I am wearing one of the around my neck, using the supplied lanyard. I did remove the two movable keepers.

Bill


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## run4jc (Oct 14, 2009)

I finally gave in and ordered one yesterday. Due to the amazing customer service of that 'junction' that sells batteries (as one other CPFer so cleverly put it) I will have the light tomorrow. Hoping it is worth it - after being a flashaholic for a while I'm beginning to see the the value in a light that has a really, really low output. My Quark 123 has a great moonlight mode and is my 'night light', but there's just something about that T1A that I finally couldn't resist.

We'll see what the tint looks like - also, as time goes by, I find myself enjoying the 'warm' tint - and again, my neutral white Quark 123 is the warmest I have. 

I'm sure it'll be great - it's a Surefire! :twothumbs


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## run4jc (Mar 25, 2010)

UPDATE - this light has been in my pocket every night since I received it. The interface, size, uber low - all make it an indispensable tool for me. The low is great if I need to get up in the middle of the night - I can see, even on the lowest setting, without disturbing my wife. I like the fact that it will turn itself off - there have been a few occasions where, in my sleepy stupor, I didn't turn it off.

Found a modded version - Defabricata updated a number of these with high CRI LEDs - bought one on the custom B/S/T - and now I have TWO of these little lights. Thought I'd sell the non modded originally, but there's just something about it that I like - more flood than the modded version. They both have their places.

Interesting how this hobby is consuming, and how many of us purchase lights, keep them a while, then sell or trade them. This light, however, remains a keeper and I hold it in the same esteem as my E2DL and some of my McGizmos. IMHO, it is worth every penny.


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## sledhead (Mar 25, 2010)

I feel the same way- love this light. Just have to find a tailcap that it will tailstand with and a diffusor for lantern mode- still looking.:thumbsup:


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## Kestrel (Jul 12, 2010)

Bullzeyebill said:


> I am using Sean's thread to talk about my T1A's. [...]


Same here, I've went through the various Titan T1A threads and thought this was the best one for adding my experience & thoughts with my new light.  






The obligatory 'frontal shot' on its lowest setting: 






A quickie side-by-side comparison to a SF P60 incan:
(I'm not overly troubled by the slightly bluish tint (common to the SSC P4 LED), but check out that donut in the T1A's hotspot. :sigh: )






It's a great light and has been my EDC for ~1 week now (the SureFire L1 is back to bedside duty for the moment), and the low is excellent for a roaming around-at-night light - incredibly low but still actually useful, just perfect for night-adapted vision indoors.

----------

So I just registered this light on SF's website, and at the end of the survey, they have a comment box, so I threw together the following:

As has been noted a number of times online on Candlepowerforums.com, I believe that the SSC P4 emitter is not focused correctly in this model. Apparently (from what I've read), the heatsink for this light may be configured for the previous model (the Titan), with which emitter focus is correct. Many users are reporting incorrect focus with this current model (the T1-A), apparently the LED needs to be ~1mm further into the reflector (i.e. closer to the focal point of the reflector). This has been corrected by others by shimming the LED slightly higher off the heatsink, but it would be far far preferable to have the correct configuration done during manufacture.

My unit exhibits a severe 'donut' at close range (0 to ~18 inches) due to this poor focus - I like to think of it as "exactly wrong". There have been many reports of this behavior from others, so I believe that it is a design issue and not a manufacturing tolerance / QC issue.

(Also, the Cree XP-G is an excellent emitter and would be a far better choice for this light: somewhat higher output, better tint than the current model (the SSC P4 LED), and better efficiency - less heat generation.)

For more information on emitter focus issues, check these links:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/241035
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/244860
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/246317
(The poster "DaFabricata" may be the most knowledgeable person on the T1-A outside of SureFire, he has modded more than 20 of the T1-A's for others by now and from all reports they are greatly improved.)

I'm generally pleased with my new T1-A, but I do wish that the beam didn't have that severe donut during close-range use. It would be very nice if the T1-A was slightly redesigned to eliminate the focus issue and possibly to use the Cree XP-G or even better the upcoming Cree XM-L.

Thank you for your time,

----------

Well, I know SF doesn't worry that much about our little troop of flashaholics over here, but I figured I'd lob a suggestion over just for the attempt. :shrug: *I really do like this light*, but it would be so easy for SF to perfect it at the manufacturing level rather than folks having to do it here.


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## ninemm (Jul 12, 2010)

Kestrel said:


> Same here, I've went through the various Titan T1A threads and thought this was the best one for adding my experience & thoughts with my new light.
> ----------
> 
> Well, I know SF doesn't worry that much about our little troop of flashaholics over here, but I figured I'd lob a suggestion over just for the attempt. :shrug: *I really do like this light*, but it would be so easy for SF to perfect it at the manufacturing level rather than folks having to do it here.



Thanks for your post Kestrel! My T1A is sitting on my door step as we speak. Missed the mail man by a half hour.  Going to run home during my "dinner hour" from work to pick it up. 

I hope mine doesn't exhibit the donut in the beam you're referring to, but if it does I'll now be prepared. I think providing feedback to manufacturers, even when we feel like it won't be heard, is extremely important. If no one ever tells them then it *definitely won't* be fixed. So pumped to check out this light!!!!!


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## Kestrel (Jul 12, 2010)

That's cool. And I agree, if a manufacturer isn't fully aware of what users think, there is little chance of any changes/improvements.


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## Bullzeyebill (Jul 12, 2010)

ninemm said:


> I hope mine doesn't exhibit the donut in the beam you're referring to, but if it does I'll now be prepared. I think providing feedback to manufacturers, even when we feel like it won't be heard, is extremely important. If no one ever tells them then it *definitely won't* be fixed. So pumped to check out this light!!!!!



I am looking forward to your comments after you turn your T1A on. Both of mine had the focusing issue, and I sent one off to "Laser" for a fix, and a more neutral tint Seoul. Turned out really nice, but it would be nice if the fix was not needed. 

Bill


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## ecallahan (Jul 12, 2010)

I purchased a T1A off Sffanman, here on CPFM. It was modded by Dafabricata with a warm white xp-g. The tint is actually what I would consider more neutral, and perfect to my likings. The craftmanship of the mod is evident. I don't have a stock T1A to compare it to, but I'm told it puts out approximately 100 lumen. This is almost a perfect light for me. I love the variable output, and floody beam. I even use the lowest low at night sometimes to look around the top of my nightstand when needed. The adjustable output makes it perfect for bathroom runs at night, or working on an electrical outlet during the day. The max output has plenty of output for taking the dog out at night. 

The only change I would like to see, would be a flat tailcap so that it could tailstand.

If you are unhappy with the tint of your stock T1A, consider dropping Dafabricata a line. Not sure how often he does these mods, but I'm extremely happy with my T1A.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Jul 12, 2010)

+1 on DAFABRICATA mod, he did a perfect job, and the light is 200% more useful, and the low is still low low.






Heres the low:






And high:


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## DM51 (Jul 12, 2010)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> +1 on DAFABRICATA mod, he did a perfect job, and the light is 200% more useful, and the low is still low low.


Agreed 100% - DaFAB did mine as well. Bernie (Kiessling) had his done too. HUGE improvement!


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## Kestrel (Jul 12, 2010)

PoliceScannerMan said:


>


 
Attempting to get a similar shot to PSM:
(A handkerchief is on my leg since he's wearing khakis/shorts and I've got blue jeans on. )








ecallahan said:


> If you are unhappy with the tint of your stock T1A, consider dropping Dafabricata a line. Not sure how often he does these mods, but I'm extremely happy with my T1A.


 
It's actually not that big of a deal currently (any distances more than 18 inches and the donut goes away), I'll probably use this for a year or two to make sure the driver is burned in and the light is 100% reliable (i.e. warranty concerns). Then maybe I'll go for an XM-L or something... :shrug:


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## ninemm (Jul 12, 2010)

Bullzeyebill said:


> I am looking forward to your comments after you turn your T1A on. Both of mine had the focusing issue, and I sent one off to "Laser" for a fix, and a more neutral tint Seoul. Turned out really nice, but it would be nice if the fix was not needed.
> 
> Bill



Well, ran home to pick up the T1A. First off, totally crazily delighted that it came with original box, paperwork, and is in mint condition. Thanks fisk-king! :thumbsup:

My first few impressions are: 
1. Wow, talk about the perfect size! When I was EDC'ing my RA Clicky I frequently felt like it was too bulky in my front pants pocket. This light I barely feel at all. 

2. Is this thing on?? The low is so extremely low. I went into a bank vault, closed the door and gave my eyes a minute to acclimate. I could *barely* see the low setting on this light. Nuts! 

3. Angry blue? My T1A is definitely not warm by any means, but I find it to be just on the cool side of neutral. The tint is perfectly acceptable to me. 

The only thing that kind of bothers me is the donut in the beam when it is within 12-18 inches of a surface. My beamshot would look just like Kestrels above. I kind of want to send it to Surefire to have them fix it, but I worry about getting an emitter that has a cooler tint and/or some other issue. 

Also, has anyone wished/thought the light should turn on by rotating in the opposite direction? When I'm turning it on one handed (right hand) I wish it would rotate clockwise instead of counter clockwise. 

This will definitely be my EDC!


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## Kestrel (Jul 12, 2010)

ninemm said:


> 1. Wow, talk about the perfect size! When I was EDC'ing my RA Clicky I frequently felt like it was too bulky in my front pants pocket. This light I barely feel at all.
> 
> 2. Is this thing on?? The low is so extremely low. I went into a bank vault, closed the door and gave my eyes a minute to acclimate. I could *barely* see the low setting on this light. Nuts!
> 
> ...


1. Yes, I changed out my SF L1 EDC for this, and that may be (roughly) the same size differential as you note with your Ra.

2. Gotta love that low low. After 15 minutes of 'lights out' @ night, turn it on to 'lowest' and walk around the house. Perfect! The first stock light I've had that wasn't too bright. :thumbsup:

3. Tint. Yup, just a bit on the cool side of white but definitely not angry blue. (Those beamshots make it look a little bluer than it actually appears.) Not very much interested in a SF exchange since this tint is quite acceptable, and as you, I wouldn't want to risk a worse tint.

re: turn on by rotating in the opposite direction? Yes! That was my instinct as well, and I'm not sure as to why. Of the 3-4 people I have handed it to, only one tried to turn it on in the correct way the first time. (My Fenix LD01 head would turn on the same way as this T1A, so I was wondering if it was just me... :thinking I think that by holding it in my right hand and grasping it, my thumb is naturally oriented to rotate the bezel by pushing away - i.e. the wrong direction.

If you hold it in your *left* hand, the thumb seems to rotate it to 'on' completely naturally, doesn't it? :huh:


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## Bullzeyebill (Jul 12, 2010)

Kestrel said:


> If you hold it in your left hand, the thumb seems to rotate it to 'on' completely naturally, doesn't it? :huh:



Left handed designer. :laughing:

Yeah, I was just playing with mine too, and it is more natural to rotate counter clockwise with my left hand. BTW, it was well worth it to have mine fixed, better beam, brighter, and nice mostly neutral white. I sent mine out for fix before DAFAB was doing them. I might have opted for the Hi CRI, or maybe his XP-G mod. 

Bill


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## Kestrel (Jul 12, 2010)

What would folks' opinions be regarding another (slightly longer) tailcap for the T1A that could hold a McClicky?

It would be sort of like having a mini- U2, and I'd love to have a 'momentary' on the end. :huh:

Maybe not better, but just different? :shrug:


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## ninemm (Jul 12, 2010)

Kestrel said:


> What would folks' opinions be regarding another (slightly longer) tailcap for the T1A that could hold a McClicky?
> 
> It would be sort of like having a mini- U2, and I'd love to have a 'momentary' on the end. :huh:
> 
> Maybe not better, but just different? :shrug:


 

Holy crow. Are you reading my mind? I was just thinking on the T1A and saying how it's like a mini U2 except with less throw and no clicky. It would be a pretty neat mod to have a clicky on there.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Jul 12, 2010)

Pardon my laziness, anyone run R123's in theirs? :tired:


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## ecallahan (Jul 12, 2010)

I've been using Tenergy 3.0V, 750maH. I saw one thread where someone used a rcr123 3.7V and it worked, but don't think they powered it up for long that way. I'd be interested in knowing if anyone uses 3.7V R123's. Tenergy makes a 3.0V that is a 3.7V that is is 'necked down' to 3.2V I think, it is 900 maH, not sure if anyone has tried that either.



PoliceScannerMan said:


> Pardon my laziness, anyone run R123's in theirs? :tired:


----------



## Bullzeyebill (Jul 12, 2010)

Kestrel said:


> What would folks' opinions be regarding another (slightly longer) tailcap for the T1A that could hold a McClicky?
> 
> It would be sort of like having a mini- U2, and I'd love to have a 'momentary' on the end. :huh:
> 
> Maybe not better, but just different? :shrug:



I like the idea, but might be too bulky for me. I carry mine around my neck 24/7, except showers.



PoliceScannerMan said:


> Pardon my laziness, anyone run R123's in theirs? :tired:



Been using RCR123's, Powerizers, not protected, since I got mine. No issues, and I measured current draw and there is only a slight increase over a primary CR123. Also, the the factory set current to the LED is not high, so no danger overpowering the LED.

Bill


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## ninemm (Jul 14, 2010)

Here's a pic of my T1A with a lanyard I rigged up. Bought another T1A for my wife this morning thanks to a fellow CPF member. :thumbsup:


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## gottawearshades (Aug 13, 2010)

I just bought one of these on the Marketplace. Tiny scratch, but that's what I get for buying cheap. Anyhow, nice light, it's going to come in handy. My only complaint is the tail-cap.

Some enterprising CPF member needs to fabricate new tail caps with a lanyard attachment _and_ a flush bottom.

Volunteers?


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## Kestrel (Aug 13, 2010)

gottawearshades said:


> Some enterprising CPF member needs to fabricate new tail caps with a lanyard attachment _and_ a flush bottom. Volunteers?


I'd be in for one of those if the new tailcap base was thick enough to be drilled through to take a McClicky. :devil:


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## ecallahan (Aug 13, 2010)

I'd be in for one, I love to be able to tailstand, and I don't use the lanyard anyway.



gottawearshades said:


> I just bought one of these on the Marketplace. Tiny scratch, but that's what I get for buying cheap. Anyhow, nice light, it's going to come in handy. My only complaint is the tail-cap.
> 
> Some enterprising CPF member needs to fabricate new tail caps with a lanyard attachment _and_ a flush bottom.
> 
> Volunteers?


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## ninemm (Aug 13, 2010)

I had been talking to Steve Ku (Kuku427) about a tailcap for the T1A. Something simple just to allow tailstanding. We weren't sure if there would be enough interest.


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## scout24 (Aug 14, 2010)

Ninemm- I'd be in for one. If I am not mistaken, the biggest impediment is going to br the square cut threads. That, and the very thin walls on the tailcap.


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## ninemm (Aug 14, 2010)

scout24 said:


> Ninemm- I'd be in for one. If I am not mistaken, the biggest impediment is going to br the square cut threads. That, and the very thin walls on the tailcap.



Cool! :thumbsup:

Steve wanted me to send him my T1A so he could check out the threads in person and maybe show it to some of the shops he works with. But, now that I've got an XPG in it I think I would miss it too much if it were overseas for awhile. I'll check with him and see if we can work something out. 

Anyone else be down for a simple cap that would allow for tailstanding and still possibly incorporate a lanyard attachment point?


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## DeLionKing (Aug 14, 2010)

ninemm said:


> Cool! :thumbsup:
> 
> Steve wanted me to send him my T1A so he could check out the threads in person and maybe show it to some of the shops he works with. But, now that I've got an XPG in it I think I would miss it too much if it were overseas for awhile. I'll check with him and see if we can work something out.
> 
> Anyone else be down for a simple cap that would allow for tailstanding and still possibly incorporate a lanyard attachment point?



I would be very interested to get a pair for my 2 T1As


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## ninemm (Aug 14, 2010)

DeLionKing said:


> I would be very interested to get a pair for my 2 T1As



Noted! Nice avatar btw DeLionKing.


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## Phredd (Aug 14, 2010)

ecallahan said:


> I'd be in for one, I love to be able to tailstand, and I don't use the lanyard anyway.



I made a tail-standing tailcap. I was considering making more, but I can't use the machines anymore unless I sign up for more classes. I'm planning to sell one of my Titans with the flat tailcap as soon as I get around to taking pictures.

Phredd


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## gottawearshades (Aug 14, 2010)

ninemm said:


> Anyone else be down for a simple cap that would allow for tailstanding and still possibly incorporate a lanyard attachment point?



I'm not too interested. I probably wouldn't buy more than two or three.


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## tsl (Aug 21, 2010)

Kestrel said:


> ... but check out that donut in the T1A's hotspot. :sigh: )


 


ninemm said:


> The only thing that kind of bothers me is the donut in the beam when it is within 12-18 inches of a surface. My beamshot would look just like Kestrels above.


 
I just received a T1A and it has the same donut at the same distance. Is this because of the focus of the emitter? Would it make any sense returning to SF for a replacement or is this a characteristic common to all stock T1A's?


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## Bullzeyebill (Aug 21, 2010)

tsl said:


> I just received a T1A and it has the same donut at the same distance. Is this because of the focus of the emitter? Would it make any sense returning to SF for a replacement or is this a characteristic common to all stock T1A's?



Yes.

Bill


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## tsl (Aug 22, 2010)

Bullzeyebill said:


> Yes.
> 
> Bill


 
Bill, is the "yes" to it's a characteristic common to all stock T1A's or "yes" to returning it to SF for replacement? My thought is the former (i.e., it's a characteristic common to all stock T1A's), but I thought I'd ask.


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## Bullzeyebill (Aug 22, 2010)

tsl said:


> Bill, is the "yes" to it's a characteristic common to all stock T1A's or "yes" to returning it to SF for replacement? My thought is the former (i.e., it's a characteristic common to all stock T1A's), but I thought I'd ask.



It is a characteristic common to stock T1A's. Some people live with it as it is not a problem at distance, and some people end of having their's modded with a more neutral, or Hi CRI Seoul P4, or another type of LED, and all have the focus adjusted for a "no donut beam". I had mine modded with a nice neutral P4, and the focus adjusted. Cost some for the mod, but worth it to me, in the long run.

Bill


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## tsl (Aug 29, 2010)

Does anyone know the mA draw by the emitter on high?


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## Kestrel (Aug 29, 2010)

tsl said:


> Does anyone know the mA draw by the emitter on high?


and on 'low' as well?
Edit: I'd be interested in current at the emitter or at the tailcap.


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## Bullzeyebill (Aug 29, 2010)

I got 750mA's at the tailcap with a SF CR123 on high, and 590mA's with an RCR123 charged to 4.10. Looks like a buck circuit. That was an original T1A unmodded.

Bill

Correction, probably buck/boost.


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## tsl (Aug 30, 2010)

I bought a second T1A. I have noticed some residual sticky stuff on the outside of the lens. I had what was probably the same thing on the body in a couple places, but some lighter fluid took care of that easily. This stuff may be due to the foam packaging that the light was in.

The SF website says that the lens is coated. Does anyone know if it is coated on the outside, inside, or both? I am hesitant to do anyting to the lens if it is coated on the outside. I'll be emailing SF, but I thought it appropriate to ask here.


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## Kestrel (Aug 31, 2010)

Bullzeyebill said:


> I got 750mA's at the tailcap with a SF CR123 on high, and 590mA's with an RCR123 charged to 4.10. Looks like a buck circuit. That was an original T1A unmodded.
> Correction, probably buck/boost.


I agree that your data suggests a buck/boost driver, but why wouldn't SF just use a simpler boost driver for this light?

The first reason that I can think of: ensuring *R*CR123 compatibility with the electronics (which however is generally a low priority with SF).

But the only other reason that I can think of is a bit more 'out there'. What if SF ever wanted to make a *2*xCR123 T1A? Call it a T2A maybe? :huh:


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## scout24 (Aug 31, 2010)

Kestrel- I like the way you think... I've banged the drum for a 0-200 lumen version since I held one for the first time... 2x123 would seem more than able to accomplish that, or at the very least double the current runtime and allow a redesign for tailstanding since you are no longer in the keychain realm. I'm only a little excited by the possibilities here...


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## Bullzeyebill (Sep 1, 2010)

I suggest that going buck/boost was a good idea. Paul Kim would know that a whole bunch of CPF'ers would be putting RCR's in the T1A. Sort of a hedge against potential repairs.

As far as a long T1A (T2A), it certainly would not good around my neck. 

LOL.

Bill


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## tsl (Sep 1, 2010)

tsl said:


> I bought a second T1A. I have noticed some residual sticky stuff on the outside of the lens. I had what was probably the same thing on the body in a couple places, but some lighter fluid took care of that easily. This stuff may be due to the foam packaging that the light was in.
> 
> The SF website says that the lens is coated. Does anyone know if it is coated on the outside, inside, or both? I am hesitant to do anyting to the lens if it is coated on the outside. I'll be emailing SF, but I thought it appropriate to ask here.


 
I talked with SF Product Support. They said that the lens is coated on both sides with an anti-reflective coating. They suggested a dry Q-tip and if that did not work then to use a Q-tip lightly dipped in a water/mild dishwashing liquid solution. The water/dishwashing liquid solution worked, and the lens is now clear of any residue.


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## V8TOYTRUCK (Jan 4, 2012)

Is the Titan going to be updated anytime soon?


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## pjandyho (Jan 4, 2012)

I doubt so. Don't think the Titan has garnered in enough sales to warrant an upgrade. In what ways are you expecting the upgrade to come in? If it is a change of emitter, maybe some CPFers can help you modify it at a cost?


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## tobrien (Jan 4, 2012)

what an awesome review/OP!


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## V8TOYTRUCK (Jan 4, 2012)

Yup..emitter upgrade. I rather not have a CPFer do the upgrade though, I don't want to end up with a $300+ Titan that can't be warrantied. Sucks since I really like the UI.


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## leon2245 (Jan 5, 2012)

Supporting the T2A idea, as well as a T1AA.


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## Kestrel (Jan 5, 2012)

leon2245 said:


> Supporting the T2A idea, as well as a T1AA.


A T2A would be great if it got a clicky tailcap, sort of like a mini-U2. I'd buy one.
As long as we're dreaming, one T1AA*A* please.


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## DM51 (Jan 6, 2012)

leon2245 said:


> Supporting the T2A idea, as well as a T1AA.


I'd like to see a TCR2A


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## Kestrel (Jan 6, 2012)

DM51 said:


> I'd like to see a TCR2A


I'm in for a TLR44A :devil:


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## vikingz2000 (Mar 2, 2012)

Great post, and thanks to all for a lot of great input (and the original review, of course).

I’ve wanted one of these for a long time. Current I have a one purchased at ‘county com’ and it’s called a ‘Maratac - AAA’. I have one in stainless and one made of pure copper (my favorite). They have three modes of light out-put and appear to be very well made AND very affordable, and so compact for EDC.

But what I want in a low intensity light to read by. I often sit in my vehicle at night and like to read with a ‘book light’ but even those are too bright (as is the Maratac as well).

I want to know if at a very low out-put, the light on the T1A is even (no rings or bright spots, etc), i.e., a true flood a low levels. And how ‘warm’ is the light, really?

Thanks a lot!


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## Brasso (Mar 3, 2012)

The T1A has very cool tint. I call it blue. I think this is the primary reason it hasn't sold well. Who want so spend that much on a light who's beam looks like a blue tinted 5mm led? That and it can't tail stand.


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## MrBenchmark (Mar 3, 2012)

> I think this is the primary reason it hasn't sold well.


I have one, and I like it. I don't think it has sold well because:
1. How much call is there for a keychain light that is as big as this one and uses CR123As?
2. How many people really need an infinitely variable brightness light of any size, as cool as this is? (And it is WAY cool.) My guess is that most people have no clue how to effectively use this because not many people practice seeing in the dark. (If you crank it up to the max brightness everytime you turn it on, it is a complete waste of money to own this light.)
3. Price. For a backup light that serves no specific specialized purpose that I can discern, this light is expensive. (Keep in mind I say this with love - I really love my T1A and use it all the time.)
4. <CPF Only> Other than the very low-low, floodiness, and a slight size advantage, the HDS lights are superior to this light. I would venture that from the perspective of most CPF'ers, the HDS lights are way better. They are certainly less expensive. (I also carry an HDS light - it is superb. Actually, the two lights complement each other pretty well - having a tiny flood light and a tiny throw light is kind of handy sometimes...)
5. <everyone else in the universe> the E1B is more affordable, and while less flexible, is likely a better choice as a backup for every LEO, and perceived as a better choice by dang near everyone else. The E1B is an awesome light - they compete with themselves on this one. (BTW, I hate the E1B, I also have one of those - just not for me - but I can appreciate that it is very well designed and awesome. It is also totally unsuitable for your purpose.)

BTW, lest anyone think that I am bashing the T1A - I really, really love this light. If it cost $150, I'd think it was a good deal, and at < $100 I'd give one to everyone I know... At $250 - it is expensive in my opinion. On the other hand, it is superbly well made, functions flawlessly, and is a joy to use. 



> I want to know if at a very low out-put, the light on the T1A is even (no rings or bright spots, etc), i.e., a true flood a low levels. And how ‘warm’ is the light, really?



The beam is an even flood light - and this has the lowest low of any light I own, which is a big part of the reason I really like it. It is usable for navigation with dark adapted vision. I haven't tried reading with it, although I'm sure you could - at least as well as you can read anything with dark adapted vision. You will not have a problem with it being too bright. As for warmth - it is a cool / neutral beam, with emphasis on cool, like Brasso said. (I'm being nice - it is quite cool, not as bad as a 5mm LED, but it is definitely a cool tint.)


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## jonesy (Mar 3, 2012)

I'm hoping that the upgraded 100 lumen version will fix my two main beefs: in every review I've seen it has that nasty blue tint and the out of focus LED, which are completely unacceptable to me on a $250 light. Despite the trick variable nature, those problems are deal killers. Granted, I'm not expecting a high cri LED (I can dream) like in my Eiger QTC but I'd be happy with the tint on my E1B, which is a nice white. That's not asking too much, is it?


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## chris975d (Mar 3, 2012)

jonesy said:


> I'm hoping that the upgraded 100 lumen version will fix my two main beefs: in every review I've seen it has that nasty blue tint and the out of focus LED, which are completely unacceptable to me on a $250 light. Despite the trick variable nature, those problems are deal killers. Granted, I'm not expecting a high cri LED (I can dream) like in my Eiger QTC but I'd be happy with the tint on my E1B, which is a nice white. That's not asking too much, is it?



A solution to this (even though it throws away your factory warranty) is to buy one of the current T1As since they have now dropped to around $175 new, and have one of the modders on CPF here put in the high CRI emitter of your choice. I just recently did this, and it's become my favorite light. It's around my neck daily. And the total price isn't much different than what the "old" MSRP was just a few months ago ($249).


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## Kestrel (Sep 17, 2012)

ninemm said:


> [...] has anyone wished/thought the light should turn on by rotating in the opposite direction? When I'm turning it on one handed (right hand) I wish it would rotate clockwise instead of counter clockwise.





Kestrel said:


> [...]Yes! That was my instinct as well, and I'm not sure as to why. Of the 3-4 people I have handed it to, only one tried to turn it on in the correct way the first time. (My Fenix LD01 head would turn on the same way as this T1A, so I was wondering if it was just me... :thinking I think that by holding it in my right hand and grasping it, my thumb is naturally oriented to rotate the bezel by pushing away - i.e. the wrong direction.
> 
> If you hold it in your *left* hand, the thumb seems to rotate it to 'on' completely naturally, doesn't it? :huh:





Bullzeyebill said:


> Left handed designer. :laughing:
> 
> Yeah, I was just playing with mine too, and it is more natural to rotate counter clockwise with my left hand. BTW, it was well worth it to have mine fixed, better beam, brighter, and nice mostly neutral white. I sent mine out for fix before DAFAB was doing them. I might have opted for the Hi CRI, or maybe his XP-G mod.



Just wanted to bump this 'issue' now that I finally have a SureFire U2 to compare this with. So yes, the U2 gets brighter via a *clockwise* rotation of the control ring. Why again was the T1A designed to get brighter via a *counterclockwise* rotation?


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## tobrien (Sep 18, 2012)

Kestrel said:


> Just wanted to bump this 'issue' now that I finally have a SureFire U2 to compare this with. So yes, the U2 gets brighter via a *clockwise* rotation of the control ring. Why again was the T1A designed to get brighter via a *counterclockwise* rotation?



for real? that's crazy!


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## Kiessling (Sep 18, 2012)

Just checked mine, it is real.
Damm! Now I won't be able to forget this while using the thing.
What was read cannot be unread


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## nbp (Sep 18, 2012)

Hi Bernie,

Haven't seen you around in a looong time. :welcome:


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## Flucero28 (Sep 18, 2012)

Just turn the body tube instead of the head and it will get brighter with clockwise rotation ; )


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## nbp (Sep 18, 2012)

Or point it at your face. Clockwise! :nana:


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## Kiessling (Sep 19, 2012)

nbp said:


> Or point it at your face. Clockwise! :nana:




I think you are onto someting there .. 

:wave:


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## bluebonnet (Nov 30, 2013)

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> In my experience, no, it doesn't even light with a fully charged AW rechargeable. However, you might be able to use another chemistry with a lower voltage or partially discharged RCR's as other people have pointed out on the earlier T1A thread.
> 
> Anyone else care to 'smoke test' their T1A with a rechargeable?



I had made several stabs at getting my T1A to light up with a K2 Energy LFP without success, until I read on CPF that it was a contact issue. Yes, the positive terminal is too short on the K2 Energy LFP 123A to complete the circuit, but placing a very thin shim in the positive contact cavity area inside the battery tube allowed the T1A to light up.


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## AVService (Dec 18, 2013)

I know this is a old thread but I just snagged 2 new in box for $99.00 each o that auction site.
Seems like in my range now!

Hoping I get them in a few days too?


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## bluebonnet (Dec 25, 2013)

AVService said:


> I know this is a old thread but I just snagged 2 new in box for $99.00 each o that auction site.
> Seems like in my range now!
> 
> Hoping I get them in a few days too?


 I hope you enjoy your T1A purchases as much as I have mine... I own a couple of these, too. One thing I noticed is the UI is much, much smoother after some use. As others have stated, truly a one-handed operation. A night-light companion.


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## tobrien (Dec 25, 2013)

I got one from Amazon, too, for around $100. ETA of Friday!


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## AVService (Dec 25, 2013)

Well mine came in the other day and I have been carrying one to get familiar with it before saying anything here,I LIKE!

I was worried it would be too big from the varying descriptions that I have seen but it is EXACTLY the same size as an ET D25C Clicky which is already one of my favorite lights.

It is much smaller than an HDS and the same diameter but shorter than a Peak 17500 Logan.

The beam is more flood than throw and it seems made for indoor use to light a room up or for close in outside,seems great for an around camp light when camping.
Not the brightest I have seen on a 123 but brighter than I thought and perfect for crawling around a dark attic the other day in my mouth!

The control ring though is so much nicer than any others I have tried,it is smoother and yet firmer too. There is a nice solid detent at the off position and if it does somehow come on when not expected it times itself off in 5 minutes a brilliant idea. The bottom third of the turn is pretty much useless though and after you can see that it is on it takes a while before it will throw any light. It does seem stepless though and much easier to get a level than any Peak I have tried and I love me some Peak!

The 2 that I got have 2 different tints too,not even close to the same?
One is just white and the other is more warm but neither are really blue as I was expecting. I don't know why they are so different it is not tough see it at all?

Overall it is an impressive light and I am excited to have it for the new lower price. 
I can't decide if it is twice as nice as a D25C which is brighter but it is a Surefire and it does bear a strong family resemblance in quality construction and finish.

Overall I really like them and am glad they have dropped in price,it is a keeper for me.

Ed


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## tobrien (Dec 25, 2013)

^ thanks for posting all that! You've quelled my concerns now (which were the same as yours)!


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## sledhead (Dec 25, 2013)

I received a new T1A yesterday also. B and H has the 90 lumen version for 143 and free shipping. Glad I went for it. Great light and tint.


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## glg20 (Dec 29, 2013)

I got in the same deal from B&H. Really like it a lot.


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## Tracker II (Dec 30, 2013)

I got mine a few days ago and am very impressed. If I didn't know better, I would swear that there was no way a CR123 was in it, it's that small and light.


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## leon2245 (Dec 30, 2013)

Although I'm used to tighten for on, I actually prefer the less common tighten-for-off setup. Instead of turning it an arbitrary distance past off to lock it out, you return it to the same obvious fixed point every time. And it's like a little canister of light whose lid you unscrew to get the product out, then seal back up before pocketing!

Thanks for the heads up on B&H. Great deal, shipped & with a couple of batteries. BTW can you put a surefire LFP 123a rechargeable in this thing?


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## AVService (Dec 30, 2013)

These are $99.00 at Botach Tactical,why pay more?


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## Sean (Dec 30, 2013)

Yep, at that price I might get another one. Are the ones from Botach the 90 lumen version?


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## tobrien (Dec 30, 2013)

Sean said:


> Yep, at that price I might get another one. Are the ones from Botach the 90 lumen version?



they are, at least mine was though. it even had the latest version of Surefire branded CR123a cells (the redesigned one with with the red and black color theme)


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## leon2245 (Dec 30, 2013)

AVService said:


> These are $99.00 at Botach Tactical,why pay more?




Thanks AVS, yeah that could be good too. Just be aware of their reseller rating & yelp scores (1.3 & 1.5 out of 5), ripoffreport/pissedconsumer history etc. Hopefully they've since improved in that respect, but either way it's more a discussion for the cpfm at this point.


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## AVService (Dec 30, 2013)

Sean said:


> Yep, at that price I might get another one. Are the ones from Botach the 90 lumen version?



Yes.


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## AVService (Dec 30, 2013)

leon2245 said:


> Thanks AVS, yeah that could be good too. Just be aware of their reseller rating & yelp scores (1.3 & 1.5 out of 5), ripoffreport/pissedconsumer history etc. Hopefully they've since improved in that respect, but either way it's more a discussion for the cpfm at this point.



Huh.
I have ordered a few times from them without problems and I think I am glad that I didn't know about the ratings,ignorance is bliss here!
So Far!

I got the Titans I ordered in 2 days during the Christmas rush and there are a few things I still have not received that I ordered before them too.


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## Stainz (Dec 30, 2013)

I ordered a 90L variant from a CA evil-bay vendor for $99.95 yesterday - I can't wait!


Stinz


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## AVService (Dec 31, 2013)

I made a diffuser cap from a clear film canister for mine and it turns it into a nice little lamp as I was hoping,this one with adjustable dimmer too!

I really like this little light.


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## bluebonnet (Dec 31, 2013)

AVService said:


> I made a diffuser cap from a clear film canister for mine and it turns it into a nice little lamp as I was hoping,this one with adjustable dimmer too!
> 
> I really like this little light.


 +1


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## Stainz (Jan 2, 2014)

Well, my T1a arrived in the nearby Birmingham sorting hub in the wee hours of New Years Day - I expected it today. I recently checked the tracking number - it was 'out for delivery' this AM - in Childersburg, AL - fifty odd miles away. The rural guy put it back in their sort system minutes later - it has to go back to Birmingham - then to Pinson. Maybe Saturday. I am like a spoiled child awaiting his new toy! My last USPS Priority Mail delivery went from CA to Anchorage, AK for five days, barely making it here before Christmas. For this they raised their rates?

Stainz


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Jan 3, 2014)

Mine came before I got home from a trip to Asia. It has a nicer tint than my earlier T1A, a little green shift at the lower levels as is common on other LED lights. The emitter is visibly off center giving a very asymmetric donut beam at close range. It's a flood beam with the shallow reflector so the defect is mostly cosmetic and probably wouldn't be noticed by non-CPF types.

The markings on this S/N 9XXX light are positioned somewhat differently from the ones in Sean's pictures in the first post on this thread. The box has a 90 lumen sticker, a common SF packaging practice with emitter upgrades to existing LED lights. I tried to patiently open the outer box with the picture and multilingual flap, then ripped it to shreds when my patience wore thin. I'll probably harvest the matte black clip off the included lanyard and leave it on the light.

I like these T1A ultra low levels for stealth dog walks in the country and maneuvering around sleeping colleagues in a darkened room or aircraft. And sneaking to bed after opening yet another SF box in the basement. :devil:

Nice light for $99, when my original T1A went missing I chose not to replace it at the original price. I'll probably leave the new T1A in the pocket of some winter coat and find it again next October.


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## Stainz (Jan 3, 2014)

Mine arrived 2 hr ago. It has the 90L sticker on the box front - the back and side panels still say 70L. The info pamphlet included is correct, brightness and time-wise, except for the mentioned <25% 5 minute autoshutoff - mine stays on. White and centered beam, too. It's what I wanted - a handheld version of my S-F Saint Minimus headlamp. Mine was $99.95 delivered - a bargain. S/N A101XY - battery dated 06-2023. Standing next to my Christmas present - an M3LT-s bought locally by my wife for <$200 with s/t - the T1A looks diminutive. Neat lights.

Stainz

Edited to add: To get the 5min cut-off to work, you must go to a level <25% - not over and then back! Oops - it tells you that. Mine works. When all else fails, read the instructions. My fault!


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## AVService (Jan 3, 2014)

Stainz said:


> Mine arrived 2 hr ago. It has the 90L sticker on the box front - the back and side panels still say 70L. The info pamphlet included is correct, brightness and time-wise, except for the mentioned <25% 5 minute autoshutoff - mine stays on. White and centered beam, too. It's what I wanted - a handheld version of my S-F Saint Minimus headlamp. Mine was $99.95 delivered - a bargain. S/N A101XY - battery dated 06-2023. Standing next to my Christmas present - an M3LT-s bought locally by my wife for <$200 with s/t - the T1A looks diminutive. Neat lights.
> 
> Stainz



I am really liking mine and they do turn off after 5 minutes,it is tough to decide though were 25% is and it took me a few tries to get it there I guess.


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## nbp (Jan 3, 2014)

I have to say, I am really happy to see many new T1A converts popping up. Let us know how you like it after a little time with it. It seems to really grow on people as they see the practicality and usefulness of the light. It really is a unique and very functional little light. It is my go-to light every night for bedside use and once in my "jammies" for general prowling of the house and small tasks.


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## AVService (Jan 3, 2014)

nbp said:


> I have to say, I am really happy to see many new T1A converts popping up. Let us know how you like it after a little time with it. It seems to really grow on people as they see the practicality and usefulness of the light. It really is a unique and very functional little light. It is my go-to light every night for bedside use and once in my "jammies" for general prowling of the house and small tasks.



I imagine I can speak for most of us recent "Converts" about this light?

I knew all along that I would like the light but I would not try one until the price dropped which has expedited and enhanced my appreciation. Otherwise I would have just continued admiring hearing about them I am sure.


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## archimedes (Jan 3, 2014)

Recent "close-out" pricing is likely behind the sudden increase in T1A posts 

Really great control ring interface, suuuuuper-smoooooth .... I just wish mine had a white LED


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## ganymede (Jan 3, 2014)

Com'on guys! Some photos of your new toy please? 

I passed on the T1A but ordered a UB3T and E1B anniversary set instead.


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## tobrien (Jan 3, 2014)

yeah how much was the T1A when it first came out? something like $250 iirc?


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## 880arm (Jan 3, 2014)

tobrien said:


> yeah how much was the T1A when it first came out? something like $250 iirc?



I think it started out with a MSRP of $239. It was bumped up to $249 in 2011.


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## Stainz (Jan 4, 2014)

Ganymede,

FYI - the Invictus and Combat Light are larger than the Titan!







Gads - $530 on Surefires since October!! Well - at half price or less, good deals.

Stainz


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## ganymede (Jan 4, 2014)

Stainz,

Nice group shot of your year end haul!

I didn't get the T1A because of my limited budget, I sure hope I won't kick myself later for this decision.


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Jan 4, 2014)

Stainz said:


> The info pamphlet included is correct, brightness and time-wise, except for the mentioned <25% 5 minute autoshutoff - mine stays on. White and centered beam, too...
> 
> Stainz
> 
> Edited to add: To get the 5min cut-off to work, you must go to a level <25% - not over and then back! Oops - it tells you that. Mine works. When all else fails, read the instructions. My fault!



Hmmm, a while back I posted about my earlier frustration with the autoshutoff on my original T1A. It seemed to sometimes work, sometimes not. Hopefully, you have broken the code on this one. When I need that ultra low setting to preserve night vision when doing star shots with a DSLR, I like to have the light stay on so I can double check manual focus and fiddle with other settings while trying not to topple the tripod. If you bump something on the camera in the dark you can waste a lot of shots before you realize it. Don't ask me how I know. 

Earlier, from inspiration here on CPF, I successfully modded an SSC P4 Surefire U2 with an XP-G. Since my new T1A has an off center SSC P4 LED, I might just try to mod it as well if I can find some guidance on disassembly.

Or perhaps not, I look at the T1A as mostly a low level light. For $99 kind of a poor man's HDS Rotary.


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## Kestrel (Jan 4, 2014)

Wait, hello, what? There's a way to avoid the auto shutoff?


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## archimedes (Jan 4, 2014)

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> ....Since my new T1A has an off center SSC P4 LED, I might just try to mod it as well if I can find some guidance on disassembly....



Supposedly a rather challenging mod ...

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?246317-Surefire-T1A-XP-G-TITAN-Mod


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Jan 4, 2014)

archimedes said:


> Supposedly a rather challenging mod ...
> 
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?246317-Surefire-T1A-XP-G-TITAN-Mod



Thanks for the reference! I probably have an XP-G or Nichia 219 on a 10 mm board somewhere, and copper foil for the shim. Now, if I can figure out the disassembly...

Some clues here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Taken-Apart&p=3071507&viewfull=1#post3071507


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## Stainz (Jan 4, 2014)

Kestrel,

Yep - just turn to over 25% - make it 50% to be safe - then back down to <25%. You are then in 'Auto-shutoff Mode 2', where it goes off when the battery dies (... or you turn it off!).

Stainz


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## Stainz (Jan 4, 2014)

VCiD,

Star pix on a DSLR? You need an A2 LED (Red) Aviator! I got mine locally <$100 on closeout 2 yr ago. Check around for old stock.

Stainz


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Jan 4, 2014)

Stainz said:


> VCiD,
> 
> Star pix on a DSLR? You need an A2 LED (Red) Aviator! I got mine locally <$100 on closeout 2 yr ago. Check around for old stock.
> 
> Stainz


Thanks for the suggestion. :thumbsup:

Actually, I've got red, green and blue A2L's and a Kroma Milspec. But the low levels on the T1A and HDS Rotary are even dimmer to my eye and help keep night vision on a dark moonless night. The yellow-green on the Kroma seems to give me the best acuity in dim light. Whether red is best for night vision has been debated here for years and elsewhere for decades. Half a century ago many airline and military cockpits had red lighting, now I don't see it much on more modern flight decks.

Recent DSLR's can image stars and the Milky Way with an exposure of a few seconds with good results with a wide angle lens. Earlier you had to track the stars with an equatorial mount or get star trails with a long exposure.

That T1A emitter swap has really got me thinking. The heat sink looks similar to the one that holds the SSC P4 in the SF U2 and I was able to cut the XP-G board with a Dremel tool and make it work.

Then again, for low light, efficiency is not much of a concern and I've got a hundred aging CR123A's from free battery deals before SF allowed actual discounting and I switched to RCR's for most lights. :thinking:


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## Sean (Jan 24, 2014)

I updated my original post (#1). I received the 90 lumen version from Botach via ebay. It's brighter than 90 lumens, more like 125+ according to my measurements. And the tint is better than the original one I had as well. Not bad for $90! I also did a runtime test at max output:

*Run time test 90 lumen version on high ~1 hour & 50 minutes to 50% (Surefire SF123A exp: 2018):
(hours)minutes)-(estimated lumens)
00:00-126 lumens (estimated)
01:00-124
01:10-124
01:15-124
01:20-124
01:25-120
01:30-117 
01:33-110
01:35-105
01:40-92
01:45-80
01:50-66 (~50% output @ 110 minutes)
01:55-54
01:56-ended test*

















*




Jetbeam RRT01 on the left and the Titan T1A 90 lumen version on the right.*


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## kj2 (Jan 14, 2017)

The one and only SF dealer here, has still a few left and sells them now for €50 (about $50). Not bad, but I would rather pick a brand-new Sidekick or Titan alu or Titan Plus.


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## WarriorOfLight (Jan 14, 2017)

kj2 said:


> The one and only SF dealer here, ...


Sounds like a stupid question but who is "the one and only SF dealer"?


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## kj2 (Jan 14, 2017)

WarriorOfLight said:


> Sounds like a stupid question but who is "the one and only SF dealer"?


Noorloos


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## AVService (Jan 14, 2017)

kj2 said:


> The one and only SF dealer here, has still a few left and sells them now for €50 (about $50). Not bad, but I would rather pick a brand-new Sidekick or Titan alu or Titan Plus.




Not me,I think the T1A is still my most used light all the time.
I use them over night as they are the lowest output light that I have that is usable and thus I never have to change batteries in mine,well OK once in 3 years from overnight use.

After the Titan my HDS on the lowest setting look like the Sun almost?


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## WarriorOfLight (Jan 24, 2017)

kj2 said:


> Noorloos


Btw. I grabbed a T1A, for 50€ I could not resit 

Thanks for that hint :twothumbs


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## kj2 (Jan 24, 2017)

*Re: Surefire Titan T1A Review Pics & Info *Update* 90 lumen version*

Saw that one missing 
I like old school SF lights, but like newer ones more[emoji14]


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## Tribull (Jan 24, 2017)

Warrior, I didn't see any there. Did you score the last one.


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## WarriorOfLight (Jan 24, 2017)

kj2 said:


> I like old school SF lights, but like newer ones more[emoji14]


The T1A is Special. It is my 2nd T1A.  Btw. I'm also fan of the old School SF lights. and I have a lot older ones, but I also have a lot newer ones. I like the Furys with the new knurled Body design. The last Surefile I bought was a P3X with Intellibeam 



Tribull said:


> Warrior, I didn't see any there. Did you score the last one.


Yes it seems the T1A I grabbed was the last one. I ordered my T1A 15th January and received the light last friday.

The AZ2 / AZ2-S is also interesting, but I own a AZ2, and I think one is enough....


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## cy (Jun 27, 2019)

cy said:


> here's a pic of titan next to Li14430 for size comparison
> original titan had a unreliable magnetic lanyard attachment.




Li14430 still lives .. but my Surefire Titan orginal titanium model has died and Surefire has no parts to fix .. bummmmmer ..


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## nbp (Jun 27, 2019)

*Re: Surefire Titan T1A Review Pics & Info *Update* 90 lumen version*

Oh no! Can someone here fix it? I think DaFabricata modded a few but I don’t recall how extensively. 

Seems odd they would run out of parts considering only like 500 were made. How many came back for repairs I wonder?


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