# How to remove the INOVA X1/X5t bezel.



## belyo (Jun 3, 2004)

*Step1*
- Unscrew the tailcap and remove batteries.
- Dunk the body into water oo: 
- When the body is filled with water, close the tailcap.

*note*
You may push a positive battery contact using a stick so that the head 
part will quickly be filled with water.






-----------------------------------------------------------------------
*Step2*
- Put it into a freezer bag and FREEZE it.
- Wait until the water inside the body turns to ice.





-----------------------------------------------------------------------
*Step3* 
- When it's freezed, water expands and pushes out the bezel! You can 
see a gap between the bezel and body in the picture.





-----------------------------------------------------------------------
*Step4* 
- To widen the gap, melt the ice and repeat the steps. You may need 
to repeat two or three times to remove the bezel easily.





-----------------------------------------------------------------------
*Step5* 
- The bezel should have no scratch and be flawless with this method. 
You can disassemble other parts after you remove the bezel. Now you 
can mod it as you like  :thumbsup:






Translation support by kj. Thanks!


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## Wildcat (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

very interesting. never thought about that. thanks for posting. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif


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## Mister T (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

Amazing /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/huh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif


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## Doug S (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

Very clever! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif


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## red_robby (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

that's the best technique i've seen! simple and clean.
very nice.


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## Wildcat (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

Is this the weakest point in the light? As I think about this, I wonder if this could split the body or pop the tail cap off if the head were REALLY stuck in there good...


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## red_robby (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

that end is not threaded, the tail is. as far as splitting the body, not likely.


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## chrisse242 (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

Have you ever tried to do this with an X5t? I would love to have one of those with a nice 3Watt star. I fell in love with the body-design but I already have several multiple-5mm-led lights I never use, so finding a way to disasemble the x5t or one of the clones without damaging it would be great.

Chrisse


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## sotto (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

And how exactly might one mod the X1 to be brighter but still preserve the highly focused beam pattern??


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## red_robby (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

i've seen a post or two about a luxeon with the stock board, or maybe it was changed to a MadMax, i'm not sure but
it was put back together with the stock lens.


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## ZuluWhiskeyFox (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

I think I might have a go at that. One option to drive the luxeon would be to use a converter for any of the 2aa lights and power it with 1/2 of a duracell CR-V3. A little pricey though. Does any body have any other ideas. Cheaper would be good. Those CR-V3 batteries retail for about $15 each here in Canada. 

cheers,


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## Lux Luthor (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

[ QUOTE ]
*sotto said:*
And how exactly might one mod the X1 to be brighter but still preserve the highly focused beam pattern?? 

[/ QUOTE ]

Buy a T1 when it comes out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## shiftd (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

T1 is longer, right? and it uses 2 123 batteries. IIRC


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## Lux Luthor (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

Uses one 123 battery. 4.59" long. Specs and pic here . The T3 uses 2 batteries.


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## sidespill (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

If the T1 turns out to have an "unfavorable" beam as well and the bezel is fitted the same way then this technique might prove usefull for the T1 as well. And even better, No need to mod to luxeon or even mess with the converter just swap optics and reflectors to your liking. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif


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## jtice (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1 bezel.*

Very creative and simple way of doing that!
Great work, I have been wanting to mod my X1 for a while anyway, stock, its just not very useful.

Thanks for posting this.


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## belyo (Jun 4, 2004)

*Wildcat,*
I processed two X1 by this method, but there was not the problem at all.

*chrisse242,* 
I challenged separation of X5t, and succeeded. Of course it is a method same as X1. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## Kiu (Jun 4, 2004)

Very clever.
Great!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

My mod is atarting right now~~


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## chrisse242 (Jun 4, 2004)

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Very nice, now I'll go finding a clone and see if it works the same way.

Chrisse


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## ErickThakrar (Jun 4, 2004)

What does this do to the circuitry? Would it be an idea to use distilled water to forestall any unfortunate corrosion issues?

By the way, brilliant trick. Nicely done.


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## daloosh (Jun 4, 2004)

Wonderfully clever, thanks very much for the idea! 

daloosh


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## Xrunner (Jun 4, 2004)

Amazing... thanks for posting this. Do all the components work after this "freezer disassembly"?

-Mike


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## belyo (Jun 4, 2004)

After processing, a problem will not occur if you completely dry it. Now all components work normally.


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## tvodrd (Jun 4, 2004)

Belyo,

Awsome! I took an X5 apart the first time for conversion to UV in a lathe. I machined it apart! It worked, but your method is definately superior!

Larry


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## Kiu (Jun 4, 2004)

mine's X5T worked!
There is no any expansion on the tailcap.
Thankyou belyo~


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## nexro (Jun 4, 2004)

Great idea! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif
I am going to remove my X1 straight away!
Hmm, I wonder if this method will work with the xnova 5LED clone? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/poke2.gif

nexro


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## sstrauss (Jun 5, 2004)

Wow. I am humbled by your brilliance /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif


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## arewethereyetdad (Jun 5, 2004)

Very, very, very cool. Thanks for the insight. Ya learn something every day on CPF, I tell ya! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif


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## bald1 (Jun 5, 2004)

belyo,

Okay, next question: what are you choosing to modify your X1 and X5T with?

Best!

--Bob


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## yclo (Jun 5, 2004)

Absolutely brilliant Belyo!


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## belyo (Jun 5, 2004)

Thank you for many interest. Everybody enjoys it, and I am glad, too.

bald1,
I wanted to disassemble it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif So I think about it from now on. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## alexgian (Jun 5, 2004)

This is just brilliant!
The creativity of this forum still amazes me... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif


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## arewethereyetdad (Jun 7, 2004)

Does anybody think this same methodology could be used to separate the bezel and body of a Surefire M1? I'm thinking probably not, but what does everybody else have to say about it? Still trying to determine a safe way to mod an M1 into a regular light.


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## chuckolson (Jun 7, 2004)

I bought an X5-Blue yesterday at our local electronics emporium, and found it quite a bit different from the frosty X5T you photographed. Inova has decided to put 8 grooves in the round tube instead of 8 flats, and the one I got had rather sharp edges where the groove meets the circumference. I took it back - - it was uncomfortable to handle. But more to the point of this thread, it may be a weaker wall design than the octagonal flat, and so might burst instead of just pushing out the bezel as the water freezes. I didn't try it so maybe it won't happen, but it might be worth the effort just on the basis of handling comfort to snap up octagonal tube X5 flashlights before they are completely replaced by the grooved design.


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## ErickThakrar (Jun 7, 2004)

They don't make the X5T like that anymore. That's the old design. Must have been a leftover.


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## chuckolson (Jun 8, 2004)

Yes, I too thought the octagonal shape was old, but my latest info is that it's the grooved shape with the handling problem that's old and being superceded by the octagonal. So there's no rush needed - - the octagonal shape is the one that will be around for a while - - just be aware that the goooved flashlights are out there and might be a problem for water freeze method of bezel removal.


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## greenlight (Sep 22, 2004)

I have opened several x1s this way, some more than once. None were sacrificed. Some even worked better after re-assembly.


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## andrewwynn (Sep 22, 2004)

I was thinking of doing an X1 mod, this information will be beyond useful,, amazing thought.

-awr


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## hotbeam (Oct 1, 2004)

A BTTT for a BRILLIANT idea! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif


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## Netpatrol (Oct 1, 2004)

I just successfully removed the bezel from one of the older, grooved X5s with three consecutive trips to the freezer. No problem with splitting, it's a stout piece of hardware. The tailcap looks a little strange - I think I got some water inside the rubber boot - but I didn't have a chance to investigate it before work this morning.

- Tim


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Oct 1, 2004)

I took my X1 apart again via a couple freezer sessions. 

I puzzled and puzzled until my puzzler was sore, trying to figure out how to spread out the beam some.

I ended up putting a piece of satin tape under the focusing lense. All it does is fuzzy up the edges of the spot.


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## andrewwynn (Oct 1, 2004)

replacing the magnifying lens with flat glass probably the only way to un-spot the spot... it was suggested to me to put in an s017xa reflector (my favorite) so i'd probably also do that.


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## greenlight (Oct 1, 2004)

Maybe there's a replacement lens that focuses differently. You could try a flast glass lens.


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## oldtimer (Oct 5, 2004)

Knowing how I'll probably screw something simple like this up.. I'm going to try it on an Xnova first. =P


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## TrueBlue (Oct 5, 2004)

The same method of freezing water works on Xnova too. I've opened a couple of Xnova lights this way.


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## Krit (Oct 5, 2004)

I use freezing method and the head is easy to remove.
Be careful to unfreez before reassembly the part.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Oct 7, 2004)

The way everything is machined, threaded etc. in the X1, that's what made my puzzler sore!

Also using flat (in my case plastic) glass lense will fuzzy up the spot more, but the distance the LED is from the end of the body is the big problem.

Anyone?


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## greenlight (Oct 7, 2004)

What would be an easy way of increasing the x1's light output?


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## greenlight (Oct 21, 2004)

It was fairly easy to replace the lamp assembly. It takes some force to re-seat the bezel. My body weight didn't do it, so it must be more than 200lb/sqin. I put the x1 vertically under a bookshelf, with the body parallel to where the support panels come together. A little weight then... presto!


I did this several times to 3 x1s. A couple still had moisture in them and I had to re-open them. Also, a few times I had to knock the light hard to get it to fire up the 1st time. All in all it's been a success. I haven't sacrificed any lights ( they all still work ).

The reason for opening the x1 (besides curiosity) was to apply glow paint to the inside of the bezel. It now glows mysteriously behind the lens. I had to scrape off the black coating from the brass housing because it reacted with the glow polish. An unintended result of this mod is that there is more side-spill now. A lot of light was being wasted/absorbed by the black coating. There were always sidespill artifacts, now they are less obvious because they 'fill out' with more light. 
--------------------
x1 poll


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## greenlight (Nov 3, 2004)

I'd like to try to make one of my x1s brighter. Is there a stock board with luxI that one could buy to replace the emitter with? And can it be reassembled easily?


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## d'mo (Nov 23, 2004)

THAT is bloody brilliant!!


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## Kevin Tan (Nov 26, 2004)

Works on X0 too! First freeze, the bezel came out 4mm. Now doing the second freeze. 

Actuall the first success was preceeded by a failure. First failure was because I did not fill the inner cavity after the brass rod. Tried pumping it, but the trick is to compress it and then snap it - sort of like releasing a spring under tension. Then small bubbles started to come up....ooooOOOOOO

Thanks for a blemish free way to open up the Innova series lights for mods.


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## greenlight (Dec 7, 2004)

Kevin Tan: This post refers to this thread. tiros You might want to post there the results of your experiment. No one has posted about this yet and probably didn't want to ruin their flashlight. The flashlight still worked afterwards? My guess was that the tiros series uses the same press-fit method for the bezel and would succomb to the freezing method. We'll see.


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## Kevin Tan (Dec 7, 2004)

I am opening the light up because I accidently put in 2x123 batts +ve first and burnt the electronics!! Bummer. 

Well, the Bbezel and lens and the tiros came out but the pcb is stuck in the tube and try as i might, I cannot get the pcb out. Also, I think I bursted the LS because of the freezing expansion., but cannot conmfirm because the pcb is [email protected]!


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## Doug Meister (Dec 7, 2004)

The frunt bezel on my Inova XO unscrews - revealing a black threaded mother that holds the glass frunt. So be careful with your ice freeze method or you will pop the glass into pieces.

This entire thread reminds me of "slow dynamite" used by some miners. You drill a hole in the rock and pack it with dry wood chips or saw dust that has been wet just before packing. Then ram a wooden stick or plug in hard. A tapered peg works fine. As the wood expands the rock cracks. My guess is that cornmeal would also work well.
<font color="blue">*--Ðøug*




2004.12.7.17.41.23 PT


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## greenlight (Dec 8, 2004)

When I opened my T1 parts got stuck... it didn't work.


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## Kevin Tan (Dec 8, 2004)

The ss bezel was pressed fitted. The bezel came out, the lens and the Tiros. Looks just like the one somebody cut out. The pcb is friction stuck to the body and cannot come out. I tried using the barrel of a ball point pen that clears the brass rod to whup the pcb out, but no go.


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## greenlight (Dec 8, 2004)

Thanks for the good information. Were you able to reassemble the light so that it worked? I only want to extract the tiros, not the pcb. How do you think they were able to cause the pcb to stick so tight? I imagine that the parts are dropped in to the body then press-fitted together. The base of the tiros should press up on the pcb and keep it tight, with the lux hiding inside the base. If they can get it in, it should come out again, right?

I know a lot of people have problem with their lenses rattling. Hopefully this will be something one could fix at home.


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## greenlight (Dec 9, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1/X5t bezel/TIROS*

Differences:
X1: completes dc through the brass bezel and the pcb.

T1:tiros not conductive so dc must travel from the body to the pcb somehow. Is there a wire visible or a solder spot? Or is the edge of the pcb coated to complete the circuit? If this is the case, that may be why it is wedged in so tightly.


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## greenlight (Dec 9, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1/X5t bezel/TIROS*

Sorry for burning this thread up. It may be possible that the pcb is not moving because there is a hole in it and the water is expanding on both sides. Maybe if you could put a barrier in that would keep the water in the battery chamber it would work better. Try a slice of apple or orange peel and press the threaded section down to make a spacer. I didn't try this but it might work. 

Kevin Tan: "I did not fill the inner cavity after the brass rod. Tried pumping it, but the trick is to compress it and then snap it - sort of like releasing a spring under tension. Then small bubbles started to come up....ooooOOOOOO"

You held your x0 under water and filled the head chamber with water by pressing the neg contact? Did the water actually go past the pcb into the tiros section? (was there ice there?) Or did it just fill the space between the battery spacer and the pcb? It's possible that after the tiros is ejected, additional freezing sessions will release the pcb, if that't what you want. I just want to eject the lens and then replace it.


I noticed that when I froze my x1, there was no ice on the led or in the bezel chamber. The pcb pushes on the brass bezel to eject it. That is why I thought it might be the same with the t series. There was ice in the spring section, although I think this just keeps the spring from compressing.


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## greenlight (Dec 9, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1/X5t bezel/TIROS*

I noticed that the t1 beam is unfocused. It doesn't cast clear shadows at all. I tried holding another lens a few inches in front of it and was able to focus the light so that it showed a perfect image of the surface of the tiros. The fresnel ridges, imperfections, and dust show up perfectly. I don't think it is something you can change, just something cool to check out.


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## Kevin Tan (Dec 9, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1/X5t bezel/TIROS*

Sorry for the delay. The project is currently on the back burner as i have a massive flu attack. I htink that the side of the pcb is the ground thereby making the removal of said pcb difficult. I think the pcb is fried but the rest of the light is in perfect condition. I think I cracked the LS by the freeze cycle but because the pcb is halfway down the tube I cant test the theory unless I make some long probes attached to a 123 batt holder to test it. 

Was just looking for the xo for further nexperimentation but seems to have pispalced it! bE BACK...


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## greenlight (Dec 9, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1/X5t bezel/TIROS*

What makes you think the pcb is fried? Does it look broken? Or just didn't fire up after removal of the tiros? It may take reassembly before it works again. Or just push in the tiros against the pcb so the battery makes contact.

The freezing doesn't affect the pcb of the x1, so I don't see why it would be a problem here. Maybe the luxeon pushing against the tiros was bad. But I wonder: How does inova take apart their lights? I assume they have a clamp with a piston that forces the whole thing out. I don't think they replace the lux each time, either.


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## Kevin Tan (Dec 9, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1/X5t bezel/TIROS*

In the volume that they make, I just just replace and not repair. I fried the pcb BECAUSE before attempting the disection, I put in 2x123 the wrong way and I tested the lights using 17670 and 2x123 put in the right way but it no longer works.

Yes, ther tiros pushing the ls might be why the ls is cracked because I read that the silicon fluid used in the ls is very dimentionaly stable and does not expand and contract much.


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## greenlight (Dec 10, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1/X5t bezel/TIROS*

Thanks for all the info, kevin.


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## greenlight (Dec 10, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1/X5t bezel/TIROS*

Does the X0 have reverse polarity protection? The new T tailcaps are built differently than the X1/X5/X0 because the battery is reversed. On the X series the reverse polarity is built into the anode section inside the body. On the T series the reverse polarity is built into the tailcap. But X0 could have the new plunger cathode inside, so is it protected? Or are the batteries inserted head first ala X1?
--------------------
x1 poll


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## Kevin Tan (Dec 12, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1/X5t bezel/TIROS*

No, X0 batts inserted -ve first.


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## Mags (Dec 12, 2004)

*Re: How to remove the INOVA X1/X5t bezel/TIROS*

Has anyone tried putting a MadMax sandwich in place of the normal board and LED? 
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=704033&fpart=1&PHPSESSID=
Someone did a mod and it seems that in the picture of all the parts, a MadMax is similar in size with the Light Engine of the X1.


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## Weylan (Mar 21, 2005)

You opened your X1 by puting water in it and freezing.

You also managed to put glow paint behind the lens. You also scrapped off some of the black paint inside the X1. 

After doing all this, how is the glow now? Does the glow paint glow good or poorly?

After you scraped off some of the black paint on the inside, did that help add some side spill to the light? I like th size, but have issues with using the x1 for any kind of navigation, because the spot is so shartly focused. I would like the spot to be just a a bit wider.

So freezing, opening and glow paint are what I am looking to do if the proccess can add side spill?


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## greenlight (Mar 21, 2005)

Yes, yes, and yes.
I think a flashlight needs a good glow mod unless it is going to be used stealthly. I don't go stealth, so I like a good glow mod. Don't let the freezer stop you. The led can withstand those temps. Do you have any glow paint? That can be had cheaply here on bst, plus I have some in different colors. The color of the paint will affect the sidespill. You might want to just go to the walgrns and buy shiny silver polish. This will make a good reflective surface for your bezel. But no cool glow effect.

Interestingly, the nail polish itself reacts with the a-r coating inside the bezel. Apply, then scrape off what you can. Then re-apply. For an even coating, be prepared to turn and monitor your creation constantly. Rotating the bezel should allow the fluid to flow evenly, although in real life the results aren't perfeclty even. You want to get it just right and need to apply several coats.


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## greenlight (Mar 21, 2005)

Has anyone tried replacing the lens with just a flat glass lens? Or one that is convex to spread the light? That might help a lot. I think it would be pretty easy to change, too.


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## markdi (Apr 1, 2005)

I am going to replace the current sense resistor - go fron .39 ohm to .22 ohm and put a uncut mj led in my x1.


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## ICUDoc (Apr 6, 2005)

Hi all

Has anyone tried replacing the X5T LEDs with the 26kmCd variety as available in the GB forums??


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## wquiles (Apr 11, 2005)

markdi,

Please let us know how that turned out. Sounds like a good mod to try.

What about the optics, are you going to leave as is for now?

Will


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## wwglen (Apr 11, 2005)

I took the bezel off of mine to replace the LED's with the 26K ones.

The LEDs are potted in the Bezel and I didn't feel like going any further and put it back together.

wwglen


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## greenlight (May 10, 2005)

One last thought... If I were going to mod more than one inova X1, it might be prudent to have a single tailcap available for freezing. That way, if the tailcap is damaged somehow, you still have virgin ones available for your mod. A broken tailcap would still work for the disassembly process, so you would only end up sacrificing one. The disadvantage would be freezing the lights one at a time (using the same tailcap) would take longer than doing them all together.

This is just precautionary. I have opened several x1s and the tailcap was not damaged. Nevertheless, I think it is wise to err on the cautious side.


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## blog (May 10, 2005)

Once you open the X5T, how do you get new 5mm leds in it?
Do you need a new circuit board?
What are the best parts to buy? 
Where do you get the parts?
How much are the parts?


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## bbc5 (Jul 27, 2005)

i managed to remove everything including the PCB in the X03.
However I now realize i jumped the gun and am unsure how to replace everything. Any opinions on putting everything back once mods are complete?


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## knot_lover (Oct 4, 2005)

Erm.. I removed the bezel.. But now it wont get back in.
How did you fit the pieces together again... The bezel is too stubborn to move into the tube.


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## nemul (Oct 4, 2005)

i covered my vice and used that to press it back in...


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## Patrick (Jan 22, 2006)

nemul said:


> i covered my vice and used that to press it back in...



Another way is to leave the bezel in your freezer compartment for a couple of hours. Theory is HEAT EXPAND whilst COLD CONTRACT.

Haven't tried it myself though............pretty sure it will work.


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## justin (Feb 6, 2006)

Newbie to modding.

I am sure I can get the light apart.

But, how do I actually accomplish a mod in this case? I am interested in getting a little brighter, whiter light out of my X1. I actually need the nice, focused beam. 

So, do you buy an entire new bulb and board? If so, how do you decide on size, etc.

If it is just the LED bulb itself, it is straightforward to remoce the existing one and replace it with another?

If I want whiter or even warm white light, and a bit brighter, what LED would be recommended? A snow29? 

Now, assuming I know what I want, where do I find a place to buy something like that?
Pretty sweet idea on how to get the thing apart.


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## Brlux (Feb 25, 2006)

I did the freez pop disasembily on my x1 today and I cracked my lense in half during the second freeze. I believe that the desired pushing force actually comes from the frozen water in the battery tube. I worked very hard to get the head compleatly full of water and I think this was my down fall. These little guies don't take long to freeze maby an hour at most. I checked it once and saw that it had expanded a bit but I but it back in and 30 minuts later when I checked it again, it had expanede more but also cracked the lense. I replaced the stock led with a CS and soldered the spring to the PCB and reasembled with the cracked lense. Actually it did not split in to 2 pieces but it did have a huge crack down the center. Even with the crack it seems to work well and is now a much more usable light. 

Brlux


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## schrenz (May 24, 2006)

bbc5 said:


> i managed to remove everything including the PCB in the X03.
> However I now realize i jumped the gun and am unsure how to replace everything. Any opinions on putting everything back once mods are complete?


How??
My PCB sill stuck in the X0, Tiros and lens come out with the freezer method.


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## Changchung (Aug 10, 2008)

How long I have to keep the flashlight in the freezer??? Right now I have it for almost 6 hours with not visible results... :candle:


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## darkzero (Aug 10, 2008)

Changchung said:


> How long I have to keep the flashlight in the freezer??? Right now I have it for almost 6 hours with not visible results... :candle:


 
Long enough for ice to freeze. If the water has frozen already, either the light was not completely filled with water or your tailcap is leaking.

Did you fully submerge the light under water & make sure there were no more air bubles coming out before putting the tailcap back on tightly? Tapping it helps to get all the air out.


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## Illum (Aug 10, 2008)

there usually isn't going to be any visual change in the first freeze...which doesn't add up considering the expansion of water. I popped my XO3 on the 3rd freeze and while everything came out the PCB is still stuck firmly in place.I can't use the freezer method again because water leaks right through the PCB area from the battery tube

I think its possible to pound it out from the tail end through the head, I haven't done it yet

Its a YA tint, bought for $30 about 2 years ago so theres no tears on this one


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## Changchung (Aug 10, 2008)

Hi, thanks for the replays, well, I take out and put it a little in hot water to open and fully submerge again, now just two hours later I saw like 1mm the head out, I do the same again, I hope in the next two or three times the head come out... I hope the PCB come out too... I will keep informed about my project...


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## cyberspyder (Aug 10, 2008)

Here's my contribution:



> Took mine apart to epoxy the interior, as the lens fell off. Note to people using the freeze and pop method...compress the contact spring on the head a couple of times under water in order to fill it up completely...also, most of the time the LED will break off, so be prepared to replace the LED (with a GS ).
> 
> 
> 
> ...



My Inova mod: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/203925

Brendan


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## Changchung (Aug 11, 2008)

Ok, open the T2 take me two days...  in the process I saw some rare things, first the long time to take to start to come out, then the switch tail cap come out too, I think because some water inside. Well, the lens and tiros come out, not the Led and the driver, it is in the freezer yet, with a little of luck this come out in some days... 

Check the pics...

One day of process






Second day






The tail cap coming out...






Out already...






The Led and driver is inside yet...






Tiros and Lens...


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## Sgt. LED (May 4, 2009)

:thumbsup:


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## Illum (May 5, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> :thumbsup:




I take it that it worked out for you sarge:nana:


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## Sgt. LED (May 5, 2009)

Well................
Sort of! The lens and optic came out just fine but the LED, heatsink, and the driver didn't budge. 

I hammered them out and replaced the Luxeon with a U2 Seoul. Since the driver was toast I ripped apart a P60L and used that driver. I stuck the negative path straight to the heatsink and so far it's doing great. I also reversed the polarity back to traditional. I think it turned out pretty well focus wise. I just have to make a tiny raised negative for the tailcap now and I'm done, it's bridged with a small bit of metal at the moment.

Thank you very much for the host. :thumbsup: I am not up to modding anything and everything yet but I am getting more competent. The brightness went up and the runtime has increased, can't ask for much more!


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## choombak (Oct 3, 2010)

Patrick said:


> Another way is to leave the bezel in your freezer compartment for a couple of hours. Theory is HEAT EXPAND whilst COLD CONTRACT.
> 
> Haven't tried it myself though............pretty sure it will work.



There is a slight problem with this method - once it is taken out, the air will condense, and start forming water droplets on the surface of the bezel. As long as the bezel is cold, it will probably get in, but may have moisture inside the compartment.

I recently had a task to press-fit the bezel of X1 (gen 1, TIROS). Manual pushing did not help as it is very tight. I have no special tools at home, so vice, etc. was out of question. I did this:
(1) Remove the tailcap
(2) Have the tube standing on the tailcap end, on a slightly soft surface (a mat on tiles is good). This is to cushion the impact, and avoid damaging the tube or the lens.
(3) Fit the bezel on the top, and gently with a flat surfaced hammer start hammering it down.
(4) Give very measured and firm blows with the flat surface touching the entire bezel ring - this will avoid the lens from cracking due to an uneven blow.
(5) About 6 blows and the bezel was all the way in!
(6) Screw the tailcap back, and check functionality - it should work mostly, unless any of the above steps has gone wrong. 

Job done. :thumbsup:

-Amarendra


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