# iTP A1 EOS - another tiny Pocket Rocket delight



## matrixshaman (Dec 16, 2009)

I just got the A1 EOS from iTP and it is another fantastically bright tiny light utilizing Cree's XP-E Q5. This light is basically identical in size to the new Quark Mini 123 with the exception of the small nub on the tail for the short chain and clip. It also has a body clip that is a nice addition. To my eyes the hot spots of these two are very close in brightness but the A1 is smaller by far. Overall the Mini 123 may have more total brightness - i.e. on a ceiling bounce you'll probably have a bit more light with the Mini. The A1 is does not have the greenish tint that the Mini's seem prone to have in many cases. The A1 also has a smaller hot spot than the Mini. Both the tint and hot spot size are primarily due to the different emitter (XP-E vs XP-G). The A1 has 3 brightness levels and no strobe, SOS or other functions. It always starts on Low and goes to Medium and then High. Levels listed by iTP are:
Low 1.8 lumens (150 Hrs)
Med 35 lumens (8 Hrs)
High 190 lumens (1.6 Hrs)

The A1 is very smooth in it's twist action and appears to have very fine threads. I thought initially the lack of knurling like the Mini 123 has might make the A1 more difficult to twist one handed but I was gladly wrong as it's buttery smooth to twist even one handed. I'll post some pics soon of the light and will also do some beam shot comparisons between these two excellent tiny pocket rockets.


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## alfreddajero (Dec 16, 2009)

Cool cant wait to see the shots.


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## kramer5150 (Dec 16, 2009)

How is the PWM on low?


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## madmook (Dec 16, 2009)

Interesting impressions, matrix.

According to CampingLED in this thread: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/250312

the A1 should have a pretty floody beam. Is his beamshot very different from yours? Or is the Quark MiNi 123 just even more floody?

I've been interested in the A1's since I saw that floody beamshot from CampingLED, but if the MiNi 123 is floodier then I can skip the A1 because I want a floody CR123A light.

I'm also interested to see medium mode runtimes, as both manufacturers state 8 hours on medium mode.


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## matrixshaman (Dec 16, 2009)

PWM - didn't even notice it. I tried my usual test upon seeing your question and it must be quite high as all I see is a blur rather than a strobe like I see with lower frequency PWM. 
Hot Spot - compared to most lights with slightly larger reflectors this would be fairly floody but as I was comparing it to the very very floody Quark Mini 123 with it's even floodier XP-G it seems small but only in comparison to that light. I'll do some beam shots later tonight or tomorrow. CampingLED is comparing it to an XR-E in a light with a somewhat larger reflector. So in that case it's going to be more flood. But if you want a like a whole lot of flood the Quark Mini 123 is going to be better for you. You can find some beam shots I posted of it comparing it to the Surefire L4 (with it's Luxeon V) which in it's time was known for it's very bright 'wall of light'. The Mini 123 has nearly the same size spot as the L4 but is even brighter by quite a bit. Right now I think the iTP A1 EOS and the Quark Mini 123 are two of the best deals going and major 'WOW' lights that every flashaholic should have. So in CPF tradition I just gotta' say Get 'em both!


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## madmook (Dec 16, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> So in CPF tradition I just gotta' say Get 'em both!


 This place is evil.  :mecry:

At least it looks like nobody has any stock of the iTP A1... for now.


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## Joe Talmadge (Dec 16, 2009)

I don't think I've ever seen a side-by-side shot of the A1 and mini ... if you're shooting beamshots anyway, would you mind snapping one of those?


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## sol-leks (Dec 16, 2009)

madmook said:


> Interesting impressions, matrix.
> 
> According to CampingLED in this thread: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/250312
> 
> ...



I agree with everything you've said.


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## matrixshaman (Dec 16, 2009)

Joe Talmadge said:


> I don't think I've ever seen a side-by-side shot of the A1 and mini ... if you're shooting beamshots anyway, would you mind snapping one of those?



I'll be doing both side by side beam shots and side by side shots of the lights themselves. Other than the shape and finish they are extremely close in size.


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## mikeinrancho (Dec 16, 2009)

I received my A1 today and after playing with my MiNi123 for a few days and comparing the A1 to it, if I had to do it again, I would get 2 Mini123's rather than one MiNi and one A1. The beam on the A1 is nice, visually as bright as the MiNi on my ceiling, just a different tint. I actually thought my MiNi was fairly white until seeing the A1 beam. The A1 will not tailstand (that was known ahead of time - the keychain is nice though) and on my light the clip fits loose and moves around when you try to one hand the light, making the grip difficult. Coupled with the lack of knurling it's a pain to instinctively turn it on or off with one hand. Also... the part of the clip that presses up against the body will eventually wear a line on the body (through the logo) as it spins around. Even if you were tighten the clip up so it didn't rotate, the body will turn underneath the clip just turning the light on or off. I'll probably remove the clip. I wish it did have some knurling though... it's just not as 'grippy' as the A3, even though the A3 doesn't have knurling either.

View of the clip and where it will rub over time as the body rotates under it, unless you bend it out a bit:


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## matrixshaman (Dec 16, 2009)

I guess my experience was a bit different in that the clip didn't seem to bother my one hand twisting at all and it seemed small enough to not be in the way. At least on mine the clip rotates fairly easily so I don't feel it gets in the way. As far as the A1 tail standing it CAN tail stand although it's a bit like building a house out of a deck of cards. If you put it on a flat table either with the split ring removed or if you leave it on you will need to set it very near the edge of a table it will tail stand. Just don't bump the table, breath on the light or jump on the floor or it will topple. I say that because if you have a heavy rock solid very flat surface then it can indeed tail stand. But it would be more practical to get a small thick washer or thick O-ring to set it on which would then make it easy enough to tail stand.


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## matrixshaman (Dec 16, 2009)

Beam shots coming up but here is a very interesting discovery - The heads and tails of these two lights - the iTP A1 and the Quark Mini 123 are *INTERCHANGEABLE!* Perfectly interchangeable and fully functioning using either tail with either head!

Here you go - first shot shows how similar in size they are (looking at my pic here you would think the A1 head is larger but they are identical in diameter when placed head to head - I assume it was my camera angle that makes the A1 look a little bigger):






Another perspective:






Looking into the reflectors you can see how similar they look here also - sorry but limited time so this shot isn't focused where I wanted it but it will give you an idea. This also shows that the A1 can _indeed_ tail stand. 






The A1 is on the left and Mini 123 on the right. This pic was shot in the dark using only the light from the flashlights so it does not really reflect how bright these look as they are both on high. I also can see the A1 hot spot does not show up as well here and it looks a bit bigger than it is but it is also apparent they both have fairly large areas of light -- maybe more so than I thought until I got them side by side. The Mini 123 still has a somewhat larger hot area.


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## mikeinrancho (Dec 16, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> This also shows that the A1 can _indeed_ tail stand.



Yeah... so can this egg. 






Unlike the A1, the egg doesn't need to be placed near the edge of a surface... but they're both destined to topple over without care.

The tailstanding is not a big deal by itself, but the overall build quality of the MiNi, to me, is noticeably better and justifies the slightly higher price.


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## applevision (Dec 17, 2009)

Hmmm!

Very interesting indeed!

I'm impressed that they basically got out a competing version of the MiNi 123 so quickly...

I will say that for those who are tempted by the ITP, it might be worthwhile to wait for the Neutral Quark MiNi 123 coming out next month--it will have a warm emitter but it will be XP-E just like the ITP only warm... and from 4sevens... and I can't wait!!!


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## mvyrmnd (Dec 17, 2009)

applevision said:


> Hmmm!
> 
> Very interesting indeed!
> 
> ...


I think I've decided that I prefer my EDC's in cool white... I have a few warm white lights now, and after a few days swapping back and forth, I find that when crawling under desks/behind server racks/inside pc's the cool white just seems to work better.

I'm glad I have the warm whites for outside at night, but during the day where i'll be using my A1 the most, I prefer the cool whites.


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## dandism (Dec 17, 2009)

mikeinrancho said:


> ...the overall build quality of the MiNi, to me, is noticeably better and justifies the slightly higher price.


 I wouldn't be surprised if they were put together by the same company and would expect the same quality.


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## brianch (Dec 17, 2009)

Hows the quality compare?​


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## derfyled (Dec 17, 2009)

dandism said:


> I wouldn't be surprised if they were put together by the same company and would expect the same quality.




+1


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## matrixshaman (Dec 17, 2009)

mikeinrancho said:


> .... clip...
> 
> The tailstanding is not a big deal by itself, but the overall build quality of the MiNi, to me, is noticeably better and justifies the slightly higher price.



I found the build quality to be very very similar and excellent on both. However I think the knurling on the Mini and the added semi-hidden features of strobe and so on definitely make it worth the little extra in price. I consider both a great value. The fact that the head and tail are interchangeable makes one think that at least the bodies _might_ have been made by the same place.


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## HarveyRich (Dec 17, 2009)

While I don't have the itP A1, I have the A2 and A3. Using these lights and others next to the MiNi123 that I've had for about a week, I find the beam to be ever so slightly more yellow. On high I don't notice it to be different from a nice white at all. There undoubtedly is some variation from MiNi123 to MiNi123, but mine is just the way I like it, not too cool and not too warm.


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## matrixshaman (Jan 9, 2010)

Mine seems to be cooler and whiter than either of the 2 Quark Mini 123's I've got now. iTP has now come out with an A1 in stainless steel! Just ordered one of these too for heavy duty pocket carry - I expect it will withstand even my pocket junk but I might have to find a lens cover. The new SS version has an R2 bin now rather than the Q5 bin so it should be just a little brighter. I think they are saying 203 Lumens  I'm guessing the SS may not dissipate heat as well so it may not be good to run it all out on high for a long time. But that is not how I typically use these small lights and I find I'm using them more and more for short times. BTW I believe HKJ measured the PWM at 2.4 Khz which is so high that I don't believe anyone will be able to notice it.


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## mcnair55 (Jan 22, 2010)

Just received my ITP A1,US to the UK in 3 days,that is fast.Put a battery in and wow like it already,going up the lane in the dark for a proper play.

Have now the A1 and A3,should I buy the A2 to make it a set?


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## shark_za (Jan 23, 2010)

mcnair55 said:


> Have now the A1 and A3,should I buy the A2 to make it a set?



Is a ducks ... watertight?

I am appreciating the A2 a lot more these days. The A1 is next to my bed on a lanyard, the A3 on my security/ID lanyard and the A2 is a general use backup torch. 

Get it for sure.


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## Dan FO (Jan 23, 2010)

I would get the A1 over the Quark Mini simply because the A1 can safely run RCR123's and the Mini can't.

http://www.batteryjunction.com/itp-a1-flashlight-ss.html

http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=297_355&products_id=2176


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## matrixshaman (Jan 23, 2010)

From what I understand I think 4Sevens is being conservative on the Mini's and did say they can run on RCR123's at one point but I don't think either one of these lights should be run on high with an RCR123 for very long. I'd limit it to 30 seconds or so. OTOH if you are holding it and its still not too warm I wouldn't be afraid to run them a bit longer. They both have about the same heat sinking mass and both claim the same lumen output on high so I wouldn't use that as a deciding factor for a purchase.


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## flashwaver (Jan 30, 2010)

To matrixshaman, or who have both the A1 and mini 123. How does the outer spill of both lights compare? Does the mini has larger area of spill? how about throw distance of the two?

Thx!


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## DigMe (Jan 30, 2010)

Anyone know OTF lumens on the A1? I'd like to know R2 and Q5 so either one. 

brad


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## mvyrmnd (Feb 1, 2010)

The A1 has just been updated with a Stainless Steel model.

Much prettier and sturdier than the original, it now has an XP-E R2, for a max output of 206 Lumens!

I just bought one of these, and love it to bits!


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## ragweed (Feb 1, 2010)

Thank you for the info! Got to check it out. Stainless steel is really tough to beat in an EDC light.


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## xcnick (Feb 1, 2010)

mvyrmnd said:


> I just bought one of these, and love it to bits!



Do you know how much it weighs? The only stat I have seen has it at the same weight as the regular version.

thanks


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## brianch (Feb 1, 2010)

I also have both and find the value of the iTP to be great. I would't say the Quark Mini 123 is "better quality" then the iTP. They are actually very similar. I like the iTP because you can fit 16340s in them. AW's sort of fit in the Mini123 but its a tight fit. Other brands don't fit at all and the battery station rcr123as fit fine. The mini123 is floodier then the iTP. Both of them put out pretty much the same amount of light.


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## Apollo Cree (Feb 2, 2010)

mvyrmnd said:


> The A1 has just been updated with a Stainless Steel model.
> 
> Much prettier and sturdier than the original, it now has an XP-E R2, for a max output of 206 Lumens!
> 
> I just bought one of these, and love it to bits!



Grumble, grumble, right after I buy mine...

Isn't someone going to pipe in and comment that stainless is x times less thermally conductive than aluminum?


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## mvyrmnd (Feb 2, 2010)

xcnick said:


> Do you know how much it weighs? The only stat I have seen has it at the same weight as the regular version.
> 
> thanks



My very inaccurate kitchen scales put it somewhere around 50g with battery installed.
EDIT:
Official specs for Original A1: Size and Weight: A1 EOS: L 59.8mm (2.35’’) x D 20.4mm (0.8’’), 22g (Excluding Battery)
Official specs for SS A1: Size and Weight: A1 EOS: L 59.8mm (2.35’’) x D 20.4mm (0.8’’), 45.9g (Excluding Battery)



Apollo Cree said:


> Grumble, grumble, right after I buy mine...
> 
> Isn't someone going to pipe in and comment that stainless is x times less thermally conductive than aluminum?



It was right after I got mine too. Fortunately I had a friend that took one look at my original A1 and bought it from me there and then!

I couldn't give a toss about the thermal conductivity of SS . All I know is it's shiny, looks great, and gives this tiny little light the weight and solidness that I though the original was lacking. 

The threads on the SS are much smoother, and much tighter. My original needed to be loosened an extra 1/2 turn to stop it from turning on if the head was pressed on. This one is off as soon as it's off, and no amount of pressure will turn it back on.

My only issue is that the SS has a really nasty donut hole when close up, but I'll get over it.


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## space-time (Feb 3, 2010)

I just ordered one of the stainless steel A1s. Couldn't resist. 

I use my pocket lights right on a keychain with 10 keys (scrapes the heck out of it), a pocket knife, a tape measure, metal objects in the pocket - sort of industrial day to day use. 

I wanted something in stainless to take the abuse, something with a solid & centered key chain attach point (I never have need to tail-stand), something with PWM that isn't visible, and something with a low-medium-high sequence with a really low low and a really high high. I use mine as much in dark rooms (that need to stay mostly dark) as I do lighting up large malfunctioning objects at night. I needed something that can use non-rechargeable batteries in a pinch so I'm never left with dead light for any extended period if the rechargeables die, and can use lithiums to handle temperature extremes.

This little guy seems like it will cover all the bases! I'll be curious to see how it matches up when it arrives.


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## space-time (Feb 8, 2010)

My iTP A1 EOS Stainless Steel arrived today and the verdict is... I love this light! :twothumbs

http://www.itplight.com/product_show.asp?id=213

For anyone consider buying one of these, the good stuff:

* Low mode at 1.9 lumens is what I was hoping for. Low enough not to to bother other people in dark/dim rooms, but bright enough to find parts I accidentally drop on the floor. 

* Medium mode at 37 lumens looks visually about 3x brighter than my previous single-mode EDC, an old 1-AA Inova X1, which just wasn't bright enough at the estimated 12 lumens (Inova apparently never published the lumens on the V2, just a guess I've seen posted). 

* The beam looks visually even whiter than the X1, which is already a fairly white light. I like white light. 

* The high mode at 203 lumens absolutely rocks. It looks easily about 2x or more brighter than my 3-AA MAG LED (I've seen a guess of 55 lumens for those, MAG won't say). That MAG is what I've been carrying around at night. Although pretty good for my needs, the MAG still could be brighter and I wanted to get an upgrade light. Now I won't need to.

* The light is floody but still has a pretty good hotspot, which is what I was hoping for. The MAG is more of a "throw" light with the deep reflector. This one seems to throw about as far, but good spill all around for a larger over-all illumination.

* Doesn't get as hot has I was afraid it would on high, given the small size. So far have only had it on about 10 minutes on high, but just the top 1/2 inch or so of the head gets warm. For my purposes 10 minutes is about as long as I would ever need it on high anyway.

* The stainless case looks just great. The diameter is so close to that of the 1-AA Inova X1 that I barely notice the difference. Maybe a millimeter or two bigger in diameter. I was worried that a 123A light would be a lot bigger around. 

* The X1 is long enough to be annoying for my pocket since I keep it on a keychain. This one is about 3/5 as long, just perfect for keychain carry and a pocket. Doesn't hang down on the key ring any further than the 3' tape measure or pocket knife I carry on the key ring. I was first considering getting a 1-AAA light to shrink down from the X1, but now I'm thinking this may have worked out better. I guess the diameter of the 1-AA X1 light wasn't bothering me as much as the length.

Only one problem of any kind so far, and even then for my purposes it won't matter:

* A dark donut hole at distances less than 5 inches. Past that no hole at all, a really nice solid hotspot with good surrounding fill. So if you light up things at distances less than 5 inches, this probably isn't the light for you.

Now all I need to do is pick up one of the new Olight SR90 2,000 lumen Luminus SST-90 lights to keep on the shelf as a backup. :laughing:

I hope this review helps someone else considering this light!

EDIT: one more bit of information to add after finally receiving some (3.7v) RCR123As (16340s). The light runs hotter in "high" mode with the RCRs than with a CR123A primary cell. The light might be a tiny amount brighter with the RCRs, but its hard to tell. Since my use is occasional I'm staying with the CR123A's.

Here it is after about a month's use on the key chain now, a half dozen keys removed at the moment, holding up very well.


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## mvyrmnd (Feb 8, 2010)

I love this this in SS. Goes beautifully with my Leatherman Sekeletool :twothumbs

(Click pic for bigger one)


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## space-time (Feb 8, 2010)

Hmmm.... I'm going to have to take a look at that Leatherman! I've carried a small multifunction tool in a pocket in a pouch for a long time. Just this last week I've been thinking about finding a good replacement that I could move to the key ring.


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## Ska-T (Feb 26, 2010)

mikeinrancho said:


> I received my A1 today and after playing with my MiNi123 for a few days and comparing the A1 to it, if I had to do it again, I would get 2 Mini123's rather than one MiNi and one A1.



Hi, if not loo late to ask I'd like some clarification on the differences between the iTP A1 and the MiNi123. mikeinrancho said he prefers the MiNi123, but his reasons seemed to be centered on the clip of the A1 that he doesn't like. I would remove the clip for my purposes. I'm more interested in the beam pattern and, to a lesser extent, the light tint.

I'm looking for a handheld flashlight for night time backpacking and have some criteria in mind. I like to carry as little pack weight as possible and this flashlight is intended as an emergency backup, so small size and light weight are important. My main light is a tiny headlamp for camp chores. I'm frequently off trail above treeline and will usually be able to get back to a trail also above treeline that I can follow back to the car, so I figure I need about 30 to 40 lumens of sustained light. A run time of at 8-10 hr at that output seems reasonable. I probably need a combination of flood and throw and this is where most of my unfamiliarity/indecision with the various makes & models comes in.

Compared to AAA the CR123 format is attractive because the brightness is better at a slight cost of weight. I have an iTP A3 Eos that I haven't yet tried for night hiking. So far I've only used it for night jogging on streets and sidewalks. I may find it's all I need for backpacking. That said, it puts out 18 lumens for 4hr on 1 AAA battery. Carrying a spare Li battery would bring the total weight to 25g (0.88oz) and the run time to 8hr. In comparison, the MiNi123 is 40 lumens for 8hr at 35g (1.23oz). The big differences are the higher medium brightness of the 123 as well as the brighter max for route finding.

Does anyone have a recommendation on a specific flashlight for my ultralight purpose? Thanks.


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## cistallus (Feb 28, 2010)

Ska-T said:


> Hi, if not loo late to ask I'd like some clarification on the differences between the iTP A1 and the MiNi123. mikeinrancho said he prefers the MiNi123, but his reasons seemed to be centered on the clip of the A1 that he doesn't like. I would remove the clip for my purposes. I'm more interested in the beam pattern and, to a lesser extent, the light tint.



My ITP A1 EOS has a whiter light than my 4Sevens Quark Mini 123, which has a somewhat greenish tint. OTOH, the Mini is a bit brighter, and in practice I don't notice the tint. The lights are very similar in general; to me their beam patterns are almost the same; if you just want to try one of this size and type, the ITP is less expensive so you might get that; however the Mini has a better warranty (and strobe etc. if you need it). Both run fine (and very bright) on a rechargeable LiIon 16340 but you can't run them too long on High (about a minute) with that cell simply because they overheat.



Ska-T said:


> I'm looking for a handheld flashlight for night time backpacking and have some criteria in mind. I like to carry as little pack weight as possible and this flashlight is intended as an emergency backup, so small size and light weight are important. My main light is a tiny headlamp for camp chores. I'm frequently off trail above treeline and will usually be able to get back to a trail also above treeline that I can follow back to the car, so I figure I need about 30 to 40 lumens of sustained light. A run time of at 8-10 hr at that output seems reasonable. I probably need a combination of flood and throw and this is where most of my unfamiliarity/indecision with the various makes & models comes in.
> 
> Compared to AAA the CR123 format is attractive because the brightness is better at a slight cost of weight. I have an iTP A3 Eos that I haven't yet tried for night hiking. So far I've only used it for night jogging on streets and sidewalks. I may find it's all I need for backpacking. That said, it puts out 18 lumens for 4hr on 1 AAA battery. Carrying a spare Li battery would bring the total weight to 25g (0.88oz) and the run time to 8hr. In comparison, the MiNi123 is 40 lumens for 8hr at 35g (1.23oz). The big differences are the higher medium brightness of the 123 as well as the brighter max for route finding.
> 
> Does anyone have a recommendation on a specific flashlight for my ultralight purpose? Thanks.



For this part of your post, it might be worth it to start a new thread for your "ultra lightweight backpacking" question. My take: there are nice lights smaller and lighter than the Mini or A1 (such as the Drake) but consider that they usually cost more, they usually use less-common cells, and you are saving only maybe half an ounce, usually at the expense of brightness or runtime. I also have an ITP A3 EOS Upgrade Edition and it's pretty lightweight (without the keychain or clip, and with a lithium battery) and is pretty bright (and runs fine and much brighter on a LiIon 10440 battery - same warning about running on High).


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## shortstack (Feb 28, 2010)

got my itp a1 SS great little lite nice white beam!!!


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## applevision (Feb 28, 2010)

cistallus said:


> ...My take: there are nice lights smaller and lighter than the Mini or A1 (such as the Drake) but consider that they usually cost more, they usually use less-common cells, and you are saving only maybe half an ounce, usually at the expense of brightness or runtime...



I think this is very wise and sound advice.

There is another thread on necklights here that talks about when that size and half-ounce weight savings makes a difference, but for a pocket rocket, the Mini 123 or A1 are extremely hard to beat!


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## Ska-T (Mar 1, 2010)

cistallus said:


> The lights [iTP3 and MiNi123] are very similar in general; to me their beam patterns are almost the same; if you just want to try one of this size and type, the ITP is less expensive...


Thanks. That the two lights have similar brightness and beam patterns is just the type of info I'm looking for. Further, an inexpensive solution, especially to the unemployed, is helpful.



cistallus said:


> For this part of your post, it might be worth it to start a new thread for your "ultra lightweight backpacking" question.


After I try out my iTP A3 and perhaps the A1 or MiNi123 I'll do that.



cistallus said:


> My take: there are nice lights smaller and lighter than the Mini or A1 (such as the Drake) but consider that they usually cost more, they usually use less-common cells, and you are saving only maybe half an ounce, usually at the expense of brightness or runtime.


Thanks. I followed up on your advice and read about the Drake and similar lights. They seem great, but for the reasons you give, I don't think they meet my specific needs. For example, to get 8-10 hr of run time I'd have to carry more batteries, which may or may not (I couldn't find the info) negate the initial weight savings.

Like you, I've stripped the "unnecessary" keychain and clip off my A3 and made a simple wrist strap from lightweight nylon cord. I'll soon give this light a try at night in the local mountains, but will have to wait for the full moon to subside. :laughing:



cistallus said:


> I also have an ITP A3 EOS Upgrade Edition and it's pretty lightweight (without the keychain or clip, and with a lithium battery) and is pretty bright (and runs fine and much brighter on a LiIon 10440 battery - same warning about running on High).


Do you know what is the relative run time is of a 10440 battery vs a primary Li at, say 37F with the A3 powered at medium?


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## Ska-T (Mar 1, 2010)

applevision said:


> ...but for a pocket rocket, the Mini 123 or A1 are extremely hard to beat!


Thanks, I appreciate you answering my question on this old thread. I'm going to give my A3 a chance first before springing for an A1 or Mini123.


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## joe1512 (Mar 1, 2010)

Consider though that the A1 with a RCR123 is going to be well over 200 lumens. (4.2V).

The A3 is only 80 lumens, which is probably sufficient for most. However, dont be too biased by those that use 10440s in their lights. This causes a 1.something volt light to be driven at 4.2 Volts.

This isn't anymore of a problem heatwise than the A1 (which is shorter but fatter). However, the problem is that you are pulling a lot of current out of the 10440.

People have measured it at 1.1Amps. A 10440 only has like what? 400mAHs, and at high loads, you get even less aH.

So the maximum safe current to pull is 800 mA, and likely even less with high loads (since your max maH rating will drop at 1.1 Amps).

This exceeds the 2C general rule for lithium ions, which is that you don't want to pull more than twice the current of its amp-hour rating.

The 16340 on the other hand have almost double the capacity which gives them a safe current draw.


In my opinion from what I have read, I think the A1 with a 16340 battery is safer than an A3 with a 10440.


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## Ska-T (Mar 2, 2010)

joe1512 said:


> ...In my opinion from what I have read, I think the A1 with a 16340 battery is safer than an A3 with a 10440.


Thanks for the clear explanation. I hadn't read that before.


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## cistallus (Mar 2, 2010)

Ska-T said:


> Do you know what is the relative run time is of a 10440 battery vs a primary Li at, say 37F with the A3 powered at medium?



Sorry, no I don't, I didn't test that while I had it (recently gave the A3 away as a gift). But this thread has some runtimes: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/240639


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## mvyrmnd (Mar 28, 2010)

Just for a little fun... My A1 SS recently went through a bit of a stress test...

Introducing my 6-month-old son.






He's about to test the water-tightness of the A1 SS






Don't look in the end!






It was on low, don't worry!

After 30 mins of this, he got tired of chewing on it. It came out the other end with no problems, and a little shinier!


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## alfreddajero (Mar 28, 2010)

Now that is just too funny, my daughter does the exact same thing with my lights.


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## MarNav1 (Apr 1, 2010)

Just got my A1 in SS, very nice for $32 and change. The threads are very nice, not gritty at all. It doesn't really feel heavy either, not a huge difference from aluminum. I think low and medium will be most used by me, high is more of a turbo setting. Great lite. Bring on the SS CR2 version iTP, you have a customer here!


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## Ska-T (Apr 1, 2010)

MarNav1 said:


> Bring on the SS CR2 version iTP, you have a customer here!


I want the aluminum CR2 version. Small and light as possible. :laughing:


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## Tesla (Apr 1, 2010)

I'm standing by to see if County Comm comes out with a Maratac version. I prefer their knurling/pocket clip format...here's hoping!


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## TITAN1833 (Apr 20, 2010)

mikeinrancho said:


> Yeah... so can this egg.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



This egg wont fall over and it makes for a good lantern


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## HIDblue (Apr 20, 2010)

Just received the ITP A1 EOS in stainless steel. This is a great little EDC light that basically disappears in the pocket and is about as noticeable as a tube of chapstick. SS finish was much nicer than I expected for a light that only cost $32, and it was much brighter than I expected. For my purposes, I removed the key chain and the clip since I think they tend to get in the way of the twisty on/off UI...but that's just me. 

Anyways, selfbuilt has some beamshot comparisons of the ITP A1 and the Quark Mini123:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/270917


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## don.gwapo (Apr 20, 2010)

TITAN1833 said:


> This egg wont fall over and it makes for a good lantern


What is that thing you use as a lantern on your A1? I like one too for my A1.


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## TITAN1833 (Apr 20, 2010)

@don.gwapo AFAIK it's a evidence tube,I got my two from Lummi with lights from rob at orb lights :thumbsup:



[EDIT] BTW guys mine is a SS version tho not evident from that photo.


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## TITAN1833 (Apr 21, 2010)

Today I decided to take the lug off as I like my lights to tail stand :twothumbs


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## Tuikku (Apr 22, 2010)

I think I have lost my CR123 Romisen, just cannot find it anywhere 
Too bad!


Could this be just GREAT excuse to order A1 SS? 

Yes, I have A3 but... Somehow it "feels" a bit to small to operate by one hand with ease. I have rather dry skin, not very good grip in fingers if you hold something small. A1 could be better, more lumens can´t be bad thing either.
Does A1 have better or deeper knurling? 

Where to order A1 & AW RCR123, any place that sells these both? (Yup, lost battery too and no spares...)


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## mvyrmnd (Apr 22, 2010)

Tuikku said:


> I think I have lost my CR123 Romisen, just cannot find it anywhere
> Too bad!
> Could this be just GREAT excuse to order A1 SS?
> Yes, I have A3 but... Somehow it "feels" a bit to small to operate by one hand with ease. I have rather dry skin, not very good grip in fingers if you hold something small. A1 could be better, more lumens can´t be bad thing either.
> ...



Sounds like the perfect excuse!

The knurling on the A1 SS is more or less the same as on any other model.

I find that the threads on the SS are tighter than the Al. I still have to use two hands to operate my SS, as my weak little girly fingers appear not to man enough for the task of one handed operation!


On another note: Titan, how did you go about cutting off the keyring knob? I've been thinking of doing that aswell...


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## Tuikku (Apr 22, 2010)

mvyrmnd said:


> I find that the threads on the SS are tighter than the Al. I still have to use two hands to operate my SS, as my weak little girly fingers appear not to man enough for the task of one handed operation!



I´m quite sure, that it will be mostly a two-hander for me also...
Batteryjunction seems to have SS in backorder.
Goinggear says in stock !

Both of them seem to lack AW´s :shrug:


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## Tuikku (Apr 23, 2010)

Romisen was found from my Lady´s purse.
Luckily, I have already ordered iTP


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## ky70 (Apr 23, 2010)

Tuikku said:


> Yes, I have A3 but... Somehow it "feels" a bit to small to operate by one hand with ease.



I had the A3 and though I really liked that light, I didn't resist when my sister asked for a keychain light. My one complaint with the light is the lack of grip...I wish the knurling was similar to the maratac lights.

With that said, I'm seriously considering the A1 light. CR123 lights are my favorite format and I just love the size of that light. I have the quark mini 123 but. I'm thinking of getting the ITP light in Stainless...the only holdup, is the fact that I don't love twisty and that this particular one does not have great knurling.


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## Pacecar (Apr 23, 2010)

Can the pocket clip be installed in reverse (at the front), so that it can be clipped to the bill of a baseball cap? Could it serve as a good headlamp that way?


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## don.gwapo (Apr 23, 2010)

Pacecar said:


> Can the pocket clip be installed in reverse (at the front), so that it can be clipped to the bill of a baseball cap? Could it serve as a good headlamp that way?


Yes you can. I tried it on mine and it works. Just be careful not to scratch the anno.


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## mvyrmnd (May 20, 2010)

Just a quick pic, after making a quick modification with a hacksaw and some 320 grit sandpaper, my A1 SS is now the perfect pocket light...







Not as polished as other efforts, but it won't be long before the rest of it looks like that aswell!


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## Tuikku (May 20, 2010)

ky70 said:


> I had the A3 and though I really liked that light, I didn't resist when my sister asked for a keychain light. My one complaint with the light is the lack of grip...I wish the knurling was similar to the maratac lights.
> 
> With that said, I'm seriously considering the A1 light. CR123 lights are my favorite format and I just love the size of that light. I have the quark mini 123 but. I'm thinking of getting the ITP light in Stainless...the only holdup, is the fact that I don't love twisty and that this particular one does not have great knurling.



Finally, I got the A1 SS.

Well well well... It´s a disappointment.:sigh:

It´s almost a great cheap light by all means but one thing ruins the whole light.
Threads.
When I opened box, it was like there was a bucketfull of sand in threads.
With my hand and the "grip" in knurling, it was impossible to operate by one hand.

After cleaning with acetone and oiling and repeating, still quite bad. 
Clearly worst twisty what I have now. Last 1mm of threads is quite hard, it squeaks and the O-ring seems to be a bit too large or the space for it too small.

All my Romisens, Tanks, Fenix L0D and iTP A3 have far better threads.
RC-C3 has the smoothiest threads yet most threadplay...


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## PapaLumen (May 20, 2010)

Weird, my A1 SS has great threads, smooth as silk. I cleaned them anyway and applied a little silicone grease. Ask for a replacement?

I went to argos today to pick-up a 4d mag for a project. Got half way home with the box and suddenly thought to inspect it - big scratch right down the bezel 
Needless to say it went back but was the only one they had grrr, gota wait until sat now.


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## Tuikku (May 20, 2010)

PapaLumen said:


> Weird, my A1 SS has great threads, smooth as silk. I cleaned them anyway and applied a little silicone grease. Ask for a replacement?



Maybe I should but there´s few things... 
First, it took a month to get here. So, sending takes a month or $$$ for express.
Then, another month back here.
Second, I didn´t apply a condom over clip before turning the light on = instant scratch round the light, so seller can assume it to be used. 

Still, maybe I just will email Goinggear, just ask a few things...
It can´t hurt :shrug:


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## PapaLumen (May 20, 2010)

Yeh i stopped short of turning it on until i'd removed the clip...
Sounds like a lot of trouble to send it back  Im honestly surprised as the good threads on mine are its best trait apart from being nice n bright with an aw rcr123. Good luck. Bought mine in UK so cant comment on goinggear.


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## Tuikku (May 20, 2010)

Well, I could always sell it away as partially defected ans get some funds back.


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## Tuikku (May 21, 2010)

Goinggear gave a fast response, its most likely the SS as a material in these threads making it not as smooth as in aluminium. Recommended proper lubing.

Also offered an exchange, but as it takes so long and there´s nothing else wrong in this light... :shrug:

Have been reading some lubrication threads. Going to get some silicone grease or PTFE grease from nearby car equipment store :thinking:


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## TwinBlade (Sep 1, 2010)

I noticed on my A1 that the threads and o-ring were a little stiff to rotate. I added a light layer of white grease (not sure what it is...might be a lithium base but it is very thin grease) to the threads and o-ring and it is silky smooth now. 

I can't say enough about this little light. I have owned it for about 7 or 8 months and it is pleasant to carry and bright enough for 95% of what you need a flashlight for.:thumbsup:


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