# Olight S10-L2 (S10 2013, XM-L2, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO+



## selfbuilt (Sep 7, 2013)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *

Olight has recently updated their S10 and S20 models for 2013, bringing in some of the features of the more recent S15. The new 2013 editions all sport XM-L2 emitters, and are thus sometimes known as the S10-L2 and S20-L2. 

This review will focus on the S10 XM-L2 2013 edition. Please see my S20 XM-L2 2013 review for info on that light.















Of course, there are few other differences as well – I'll go through all of those in the detailed discussion and testing below. 

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


LED: CREE XM-L2
Output (ANSI)/Runtime: High: 400 Lumens/1.25 Hours, Medium: 85 Lumens/7.5 Hours, Low: 5 Lumens/108 Hours, Moonlight: 0.5 Lumens/360 Hours
Peak beam intensity: 2,700 cd
Max beam distance: 104 m
Aviation grade aluminum body, with anti-scratch type III hard anodizing.
There are four brightness levels: Moon-light, low, middle and high. These levels can be memorized when the light turned off; one special mode: strobe.
Under off status, single click will turn on the light, quick double clicking can get high brightness, triple-click enable strobe mode, while long time press enable moon light.
With strong magnet in the end of tail, the flashlight can be stick on the iron surface. The magnet can be removed and replaced by users.
Invertible U-shape embrace clip.
Stainless steel head ring, which can bear higher tensile impaction
Flat tail cap, can be easily head stood.
S10 has high efficient synchronous boost-buck driver circuit, perfectly support CR123A & RCR123A battery.
IPX-8 water resistance
Impact resistant to 2 m (about 6.5")
Dimensions: Length: 2.8" (70.5mm), Diameter: 0.9" (23 mm)
Weight (w/o Battery): 1.48 oz (42g)
Standard Accessories: Flashlight x 1, Lanyard x 1, Spare O-RINGs x2 sets, Replacer of magnet x 1, User manual x 1.
Optional Accessories: TW10-W White Traffic Wand, TW10-O Orange Traffic Wand, FM10-G Green filter, FM10-R Red filter,
FM10-B Blue filter, DM10 Diffuser, OLB-123S One CR123A 1500mAh 3V Lithium Battery, OLB-123P 
MSRP: ~$50














The packaging has been updated, and the new 2013 editions all look the same (i.e., similar to my recent S15 review). Inside the clear plastic container are the light, extra o-rings, a simple wrist lanyard, replacement for the tailcap magnet, and manual. There is also an overview of specs on the bottom and back of the packaging.













From left to right: CR123A; Olight S10 (2013), S10 (2012); Nitecore EC1; Eagletac D25C; Jetbeam RRT-01; Sunwayman V11R; Nitecore MH1C.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Olight S10 (2013, XM-L2)*: Weight: 41.5g, Length: 70.8mm, Width (bezel): 23.2mm
*Olight S10 (2012 XM-L)*: Weight 41.1g, Length: 70.6mm, Width (bezel): 23.0mm
*ArmyTek C1 XM-L*: Weight: 43.0g, Length: 80.2mm , With (bezel): 23.1mm
*Lumintop ED11*: Weight: 44.1g, Length: 83.7, Width (bezel): 21.8mm
*Foursevens QTLC*: Weight 36.4g, Length 84.1mm, Width (bezel) 22.1mm
*Sunwayman C10R*: Weight: 57.3g, Length: 76.2mm (no lanyard plug), 82.3mm (with plug), Width (bezel): 25.6mm, Width (head at widest part): 28.6mm
*Eagletac D25C Clicky*: Weight: 30g, Length: 76.0mm, Width (bezel): 20.0mm
*Jetbeam PC10*: Weight: 50.5g, Length: 93.6mm, Width (bezel): 22.6mm

Overall dimensions are very similar to the original S10, and other compact lights in this class.













Physically, the new 2013 editions of the S10 and S20 look generally similar to the old ones. These lights are all quite petite for their respective classes. Lights come with black anodizing (matte finish) and bright white labels. Although still without typical knurling, the raised checkered patterns on the body help with grip. With the pocket clip attached, I'd say grip is reasonably good.

The pocket clip is comparable to the earlier models, no real change for the later-model S10a. It seems to hold onto the light fairly securely. I personally like it, as you can clip it on you in either orientation (i.e., bezel-up or bezel-down carry), although it might be rough on clothing given how tightly it fits.

The original S20 had a spring in the head, but the original S10 had a flat contact with reverse-polarity detectors beside it. The new S10 for 2013 has a small spring (but oddly the reverse-polarity detectors are still there). But this spring presumably also helps with maintaining battery contact stability in jarring environments.

Like the other Batons, the S10 2013 uses the same square-cut screw threads as before (anodized for tail lock-out, like the earlier S10/20). 

Light can tailstand, and there is a split-ring/lanyard attachment hole on the side of the tail cap as before. The tailcap in fact seems identical to the original S10, with the same removable strong magnet (i.e., firm enough for the light to stand horizontally off any vertical metal surface). I previously prepared a video of the S10, showing you how to swap out the magnet in the tailcap: 



Note that they seem to have improved the design, as I no longer notice any rattle on the tailcap (as I did on the original S10/S20 with the magnet installed). 

As before, the light uses an electronic switch, located near the head. However, the user interface has been updated from the earlier S10 (see below). And the button design has changed – no longer a soft silicone cover, the new cover is a much harder blue plastic. Note that there was never a low voltage warning sensor on this model (i.e., there was no LED under the switch), so this change is really more cosmetic than anything else.

As before, the light has a flat stainless steel bezel ring with a red o-ring, and a lightly textured reflector. One difference – the lens anti-glare coating is not as pronounced now. :thumbsup: This is actually good news, as I (and others) had found that the anti-glare on the original S10/S20 lens was contributing to the relatively greenish tint. Tint is therefore improved slightly on the new S10 2013.










The main build difference is that S10 has been updated with a XM-L2 Cool White emitter now. The plastic surround has been changed from black to white, but the emitter remains well centered. The reflector remains relatively smooth finish, like the older S10/S20 lights. 

BTW, here is what the old S10 XM-L looked like. 

S10 XM-L





Note the visible grid over the die, 3 bond wires, and green mask surround. These are all classic signs of the XM-L emitter that have been revised on XM-L2 (i.e., no grid, 2 bond wires, and silver mask on XM-L2).

*User Interface*

The S10 2013 interface has been updated from the previous S10, and is now the same as the recent S15. 

Like the other Baton lights, the S10 uses an electronic switch for on/off and mode control. As before, a quick press and release (i.e., click) turns the light on/ off. 

Mode switching is controlled by holding down the electronic switch. The light will cycle between Lo – Med – Hi, in repeating sequence. As before, simply release the switch to select your desired mode. The light has mode memory – if you turn it off/on, the light returns to your previous level.

The S10 continues to features the ultra-low "Moonlight" level. You access this mode directly from off by a sustained (>1 sec) press-and-hold of the switch from off. This is a nice feature, as it means you can always turn the light on in the lowest possible mode if you want (i.e., no matter where you memorized it before). Mode cycling and memory works as before, once on.

_EDIT: There is another shortcut option here - a double-click from Off will jump you to Hi output level. This is different from a double-click from on, which will give you strobe._

Note that the S10 has a revised "soft lock-out" mode now - if you hold the switch down from off for >2 secs, the light shuts itself off (i.e., after one second of the Moonlight mode). You will not be able to use the light until you unlock it (by pressing-and-holding the switch for >2secs again). Note that this means that if you want Moonlight, you must release the switch before the lock-out takes effect (hold the switch between 1 and 2 secs). To unlock, simply press and hold the switch for more than 1 sec now.

There is still a "hidden" strobe mode, accessed by double-clicking the switch when on. Double-click again to return to constant on.

*Video*: 

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:

_Note that this video was prepared based on the pre-release samples I received (without the final packaging – scroll back up for details on it). The physical build and user interface is unchanged in the shipping samples, so the lights look and behave exactly as described below._



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

*PWM/Strobe*

As always, there is no sign of PWM at any output level – The S10 2013 is current-controlled like its predecessors.  






The strobe is a fairly typical fast "tactical" strobe, of 9.8Hz frequency (as before).

*Standby Drain*

As the switch is an electronic one, a standby current drain is always present when a battery is installed. 

I measured this standby drain at 6.2 uA for both 1xCR123A and 1xRCR on my new S10 2013 sample. This is pretty close to my original S10, which was 5.7uA/5.8uA respectively on those batteries. For a standard 1400mAh CR123A and 750mAh RCR, that would translate into almost 26 years and 14 years, respectively, before a battery would be fully drained. Hardly a concern – although I do recommend you lock out the switch at the tailcap to prevent accidental activation.

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences.

_The original S10 XM-L from 2012 is simply labeled as S10 below (with battery type), and the new S10-L2 is labeled as S10 2013 XM-L2._

1xCR123A





























































1xRCR





























































Beam pattern remains very similar to the original S10, as you would expect (i.e., the Batons are all relatively "floody"). The main differences are a little more output on Hi (due to the XM-L2), and a slightly improved tint (which you can't tell above, due to the auto white balance). 

The reduced anti-glare coating of the lens on all the 2013 Baton models has reduced the green tint-shifting somewhat, on all my samples. Note that it is common to see warm (i.e., green-yellow) tint shifting at lower outputs on current-controlled lights like these. The original anti-glare coating was exacerbating this tendency, however (by shifting more purple light to the beam fringes and allowing more green light through the center hotpot).

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).











As you can start to see above, there isn't much of a difference between the new S10 2013 XM-L2 and original S10 – aside from a little more output and throw on Hi.

Also as before, there also isn't a big difference in output levels between CR123A and RCR. 

To better illustrate the output differences between the old and new model, here is a detailed output comparison on 1xCR123A.






Overall, my lumen estimates are pretty close to Olight's specs. 

As always, it bears repeating that my estimated lumen scale is just that - an estimate, based on a consistent calibration of my lightbox. But even though the _absolute value_ correlation is unknown, the _relative_ comparisons still hold. All I can really say is that one light is higher or lower than another, by a certain relative percentage. So please don't get hung up on the absolute values of the estimates, or on small relative percent changes. 

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*



















Like many recent lights in this class, the S10 continues to have a defined step-down on Hi (after 4.5 mins of continuous runtime in this case). The difference on the Olight S10 series is that the step-down is gradual, taking about 4 mins to level off at the lower Hi level. This is unchanged from the original S10, and continues to mean that you are unlikely to notice the step-down on this series. Note that you can turn the light off-on to restore initial max output.

The output/runtime curves for the new S10 do not look appreciably different, except for a small bump in output on Med and Hi (thanks to the higher output bin XM-L2 used, presumably). As before, on all batteries, overall efficiency is excellent at all output levels tested.

*Potential Issues*

All Baton lights use an electronic switch, and therefore require a small stand-by current when fully connected. However, the standby drain on S10 remains at a ridiculously low 6.2uA, which would translate into decades before a CR123A or RCR battery would be drained. 

Accidental activation is always a potential concern with electronic switches. You can "soft" lock out the switch electronically, and you can always physically lock out the light at the tailcap. 

My earlier S10 and S20 samples had a noticeably green tint, especially so at the lower output levels. This is improved on the new 2013 Baton lights, thanks to a reduced anti-glare coating on the lens (which was exacerbating the problem). However, you are still likely to notice a green-yellow tint in the hotspot - it is just slightly less pronounced than the earlier S10/S20.

*Preliminary Observations*

The 2013 editions of the S10 and S20 are a nice update to the line. As you would expect, the changes are more evolutionary than revolutionary. My understanding is that these models will simply replace the old ones as dealers clear out inventory. As such, it's nice to see Olight has kept the price points consistent. 

In terms of the S10, the main headline change is the new XM-L2 emitter (which will give you a small bump in max output due to the output bin increase). Olight doesn't report exact output bins, but my testing results suggest you are looking at about two bin steps here. This will also translate into slightly better throw, simply due to the higher max output.

Otherwise, the beam pattern doesn't change much – except for the slightly improved tint. The original S10 and S20 lights were known for a particularly noticeable green tint shift at lower levels. While common in current-controlled lights, the situation was exacerbated by a heavy anti-glare coating on the lens (which seemed to preferentially diffract purplish light out to the side of the spill, and allowed the green to shine through with the hotspot). All the new 2013 models (including the S15) have a new anti-glare lens coating that is less prominent. While this doesn't completely resolve the issue, you are likely the find the new 2013 models an improvement. 

Another feature that has changed is the on/off button – it is now made out of a hard blue plastic instead of soft silicone (i.e., just like the S15 now). Note that there was never a low warning voltage feature on the S10 (i.e., there was no red LED underneath the switch previously). It is just the S20 and the earlier Baton lights (S35/S65/S80) that have this feature. 

Circuit function is similar to before, but there have been a few user interface changes. For example, the soft-lockout is now on sustained press >2 sec from off (which I suspect many will find better than the previous location of after three mode cycles). Unlocking the light requires only a 1 sec sustained press though, which may not suit everyone (i.e., it's really no different than entering Moonlight mode normally). But you can always physically lock-out the light by unscrewing the tailcap partially.

What hasn't changed is the over build feel. As before, you get a decent clip (reversible orientation), keychain attachment point, and reasonable grip. The magnetic tailcap is present as before, and you can swap out the magnet if you don't want it. 

Performance of the light remains excellent in my testing, in keeping with the good current-control circuitry (i.e. very long relative runtimes). :thumbsup: Combined with the very serviceable user interface, I can see a lot of people finding much here to suit their needs.

Again, at the end of the day, this is a thoughtful update to the Baton line. A strong contender for those looking for a portable basic purpose flashlight. :wave:

----

S10 2013 XM-L2 was supplied by Olight for review.


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## Badbeams3 (Sep 7, 2013)

Lol...I was just reading the review of the S-20...and was getting ready to ask if you were doing one of the S-10...no kidding.


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## Badbeams3 (Sep 7, 2013)

S10 is still a/the run time champion...and a bit brighter now.


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## Ryp (Sep 7, 2013)

2nd again?! Ahhh. Good review, thanks!


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## selfbuilt (Sep 7, 2013)

Badbeams3 said:


> Lol...I was just reading the review of the S-20...and was getting ready to ask if you were doing one of the S-10...no kidding.


Yes - the S20-L2 and S10-L2 reviews are nearly identical in their descriptions and text, but of course all the testing results and pics are different. But the conclusion is comparable - both are leading performers for their respective classes.


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## Ryp (Sep 7, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> the S20-L2 and S10-L2 reviews are nearly identical in their descriptions and text


Did you copy and paste the S20 review and change things where needed?


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## selfbuilt (Sep 8, 2013)

Ryp said:


> Did you copy and paste the S20 review and change things where needed?


Pretty much. Normally, I would do a combined review for members of the same family. But that would mean a lot of graphs, charts and beamshots to scroll through, so I figured it was easier to have two separate reviews in this case.


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## Flanagan (Sep 8, 2013)

I just discovered this site and based on this review, which was great, I just ordered the Olight S10 XM-L2. I appreciate all the work that you put into these reviews and have found them to be very useful.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 9, 2013)

Flanagan said:


> I just discovered this site and based on this review, which was great, I just ordered the Olight S10 XM-L2. I appreciate all the work that you put into these reviews and have found them to be very useful.


Thanks, and :welcome:


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## MattSPL (Sep 10, 2013)

Thanks for the review


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## jeffsf (Sep 12, 2013)

I'm very impressed by this light and its general usability. It has great beamwidth for general-purpose use, easily lighting up a 20'x30' yard when I was trying to figure out what was making the dogs bark so much. You don't need a "super-secret, magic decoder ring" to figure out how to use it, which is a big plus for me. 

I definitely wouldn't trust the soft-lock feature to keep the light off if you are clipping it inside a pocket or tossing it in a bag. Twisting the tail cap is straightforward and the threads move smoothly, but with enough "stickiness" to trust that they won't loosen or tighten unexpectedly. On the upside is that it will turn on to the "moonlight" setting if it does get accidentally turned on (though it _can _cycle up from there).

If you're a first-time LED-flashlight buyer looking for a general-purpose light, I wouldn't hesitate to buy this. I just got our second one :thumbsup:


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## selfbuilt (Sep 13, 2013)

jeffsf said:


> If you're a first-time LED-flashlight buyer looking for a general-purpose light, I wouldn't hesitate to buy this. I just got our second one :thumbsup:


Yes, I think that's a fair assessment - and the same goes for the S15 and S20 (it just comes down to your preferred battery type).

I just had someone over looking to borrow a general purpose light for an over seas sight-seeing trip, and they quickly settled on the S20 (due to size, runtime, and ease of use).


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## stevieo (Sep 14, 2013)

EDIT: or a quick double click after tailcap tightened to go straight to high & also from regular off from switch (without switch lock) from last mode memory other than high. from electronic switch lock out you still have to go through the low modes to get to high.



jeffsf said:


> Twisting the tail cap is straightforward and the threads move smoothly, but with enough "stickiness" to trust that they won't loosen or tighten unexpectedly. On the upside is that it will turn on to the "moonlight" setting if it does get accidentally turned on (though it _can _cycle up from there).
> 
> If you're a first-time LED-flashlight buyer looking for a general-purpose light, I wouldn't hesitate to buy this. I just got our second one :thumbsup:


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## sspc (Sep 15, 2013)

Thank you selfbuilt. Can you confirm if a double click from off takes you directly to high on this S10?


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## kj2 (Sep 15, 2013)

sspc said:


> Thank you selfbuilt. Can you confirm if a double click from off takes you directly to high on this S10?


Yes


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## Flanagan (Sep 15, 2013)

I've had this light for several days now and am very pleased with it. I'm a pressman on a web offset press and I use it for checking ink/water balance, roller settings and general troubleshooting. It has all the power I need for my job and it is very convenient to carry in my pocket. I'm surprised by the amount of light from such a small flashlight.


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## sspc (Sep 17, 2013)

kj2 said:


> Yes


Thank you


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## zs&tas (Oct 19, 2013)

great review ! ive become a big olight fan and use them more than others now. i have a bit of a strange question but im wondering what the total runtime on rcr in strobe would be ??


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## selfbuilt (Oct 20, 2013)

zs&tas said:


> great review ! ive become a big olight fan and use them more than others now. i have a bit of a strange question but im wondering what the total runtime on rcr in strobe would be ??


Well, the strobe mode is a 50:50 on: off cycle. So, presuming output Is a full power strobe, that would mean about twice the runtime of max on RCR. But I don't have the light in front of me at the moment, so can't confirm the output level.


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## zs&tas (Oct 20, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Well, the strobe mode is a 50:50 on: off cycle. So, presuming output Is a full power strobe, that would mean about twice the runtime of max on RCR. But I don't have the light in front of me at the moment, so can't confirm the output level.


thanks SB. about 1hr40 then ish. would you off the top of your head know of a light that dosnt use 100% brightness on strobe ?


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## selfbuilt (Oct 20, 2013)

zs&tas said:


> thanks SB. about 1hr40 then ish. would you off the top of your head know of a light that dosnt use 100% brightness on strobe ?


It is not something that I have ever set out to measure, but I have on occasion noticed a few strobes that don't seem to be full power. Can't think of a specific light off hand - if you do a search here, you may find some examples.

Note also that most strobes are indeed 50:50 pulses, but some are not (especially among the really high frequency ones). The S10 is definitely 50:50.


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## zs&tas (Oct 21, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> It is not something that I have ever set out to measure, but I have on occasion noticed a few strobes that don't seem to be full power. Can't think of a specific light off hand - if you do a search here, you may find some examples.
> 
> Note also that most strobes are indeed 50:50 pulses, but some are not (especially among the really high frequency ones). The S10 is definitely 50:50.



thanks yeah my ex11 strobe is REALLY juicy !


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## A.O. (Oct 30, 2013)

Well, I came back to CPF's today doing research on a general purpose EDC light.. I think this is the one.. thanks for the great review!!


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## spark001uk (Nov 16, 2013)

Quick question: S10 on full whack draws ~960mA according to a review I read. In contrast the Trustfire mini-02 with the same battery and emitter draws over 2A. Am I correct to assume this limiting in the Olight was done to balance brightness with runtime?


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## selfbuilt (Nov 16, 2013)

spark001uk said:


> Am I correct to assume this limiting in the Olight was done to balance brightness with runtime?


Yes.


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## Capolini (Nov 16, 2013)

Thanks SB for the very informative and thorough review!! Also thanks to the people who posted! 

I am glad to see that people really like this mini torch!! I will be getting mine on Monday! :thumbsup:

I got the Nitecore SENS CR first, before I noticed/evaluated the S10! The sens is a "Novelty" and a neat little light. However, I have a feeling I will like this S10 more! It has a bit more than twice the output. 

All of the sudden I will have Three[3] Olights! M22, M3X and S10[L2] on Monday!


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## spark001uk (Nov 17, 2013)

Does anyone know what bin the L2 used in this model is?? (From what data I can find I would guess about a T6 or U2?)


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## selfbuilt (Nov 17, 2013)

spark001uk said:


> Does anyone know what bin the L2 used in this model is?? (From what data I can find I would guess about a T6 or U2?)


Olight doesn't usually disclose output bin info (in fact, they may not even purchase defined bins). If defined bins are sued, I would presume a T6 is most likely, but U2 is possible.


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## spark001uk (Nov 17, 2013)

Ok thanks for the info. Would you happen to have carried out any running current measurements on this light at all?


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## A.O. (Nov 17, 2013)

My B-day is Saturday, the Ti version is on my list... fingers crossed..


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## RetroTechie (Nov 17, 2013)

Also own this light, and did some current measurements on it. Posted results in this other thread on the S10-L2.

Not with 'scientific rigor' of course,  but should give a pretty good idea. Also note I have *no idea whatsoever* about variation between specimens. So YMMV (as usual) ... In practice, lumens output + actual power draw on "high" (ehm, turbo  ) mode very much depends on the properties of the battery used.


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## selfbuilt (Nov 17, 2013)

RetroTechie said:


> Also own this light, and did some current measurements on it.


Thanks for the post, and the qualifications (in both locations). I'm glad to see you covered a number of important points, in regards to the challenges of doing accurate current draws. I no longer report them - having only entry-to-mid range DMMs and cables, I've determined that the resistance is high enough to alter output significantly (i.e., I can simultaneously measure both), and variation between samples can be quite high (when I know actual runtime isn't). :shrug:

In any case, I'm not quite clear why people want these where full output/runtime graphs exist :thinking: Certainly, without a full time course (which I see you took some pains to do, at least until step-down), it is likely to be very misleading. If people are looking to use initial tailcap current readings to try and predict runtime performance compared to other lights, they are in for some nasty surprises. Which is again why I appreciate the clarity of your posts.


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## Capolini (Nov 19, 2013)

It is a great little torch. UI is simple. It has amazing output for such a little guy! I love the fact that it can take rechargeable batteries. That was a huge part in my decision to get it.

The only thing I do not prefer is the "Yellowish" tint. Most of my torches are Cool White.


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## spark001uk (Nov 25, 2013)

Tell me about it, mine arrived this morning from HK. Went outside and turned it on and I had a two word reaction, and the second word was "ME" !!


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## A.O. (Nov 25, 2013)

Got my "old" version in Ti Saturday.. nice light!


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## Capolini (Nov 25, 2013)

spark001uk said:


> Tell me about it, mine arrived this morning from HK. Went outside and turned it on and I had a two word reaction, and the second word was "ME" !!


 So what is the first word??!!! Hope it was a positive reaction! Not ,,,,


I like the little torch[I have the new L2 version],,,,,,,,,,,I just wish they would have kept the "Low battery/voltage indicator! Mine shut off a few times and now I am vigilant about checking it on the voltage meter every 15 minutes or so of use!

Oh ya,,I forgot the Yellowish tint" already!! 

Overall I am glad I have it!!

It is dark!! Olight M3X tonight with M22 as backup and the Siberian keeping the Squirrel and Deer population under control!!!


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## spark001uk (Nov 27, 2013)

What cells are people using in these? I put a new fully charged ultrafire 880mah in and after about 10mins of light it was down at 2.7v! Half expected it to be honest. So I'm open to recommendations on something better? (and good value for money hopefully!)

I'll keep the WF-138 charger as I gather from what I've read it's not too bad. Shame about their batteries though.


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## selfbuilt (Nov 27, 2013)

spark001uk said:


> What cells are people using in these? I put a new fully charged ultrafire 880mah in and after about 10mins of light it was down at 2.7v!
> I'll keep the WF-138 charger as I gather from what I've read it's not too bad. Shame about their batteries though.


The Ultrafire charger is fine, but Ultrafire-brand rechargeable cells should be avoided - they typically don't meet stated specs, and often do not hold their charge.

I use AW RCRs exclusively, but other "name" brands (including known light manufacturers) should be fine. Check out the electronics/battery forum here for reviews and discussions on this topic.


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## Capolini (Nov 27, 2013)

spark001uk said:


> What cells are people using in these? I put a new fully charged ultrafire 880mah in and after about 10mins of light it was down at 2.7v! Half expected it to be honest. So I'm open to recommendations on something better? (and good value for money hopefully!)
> 
> I'll keep the WF-138 charger as I gather from what I've read it's not too bad. Shame about their batteries though.




The Nitecore NL166 also works. Flashlion told me about it. That is the one I am using.

Some of the RCR[16340] do not fit!! One of them is the "KeepPower 700 Mah ICR 16340.

Now you have Two for certain that work!

The AW RCR that SB mentioned and Nitecore NL166- 16340.

The problem with these batteries is that the "Specifications" in regard to L x W are not mentioned too often like the 18650 are. HKJ does mention all the specs. for about a half dozen or so of the 16340 on his website.

Here is his website:
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/CommonSmallSummary UK.html


----------



## A.O. (Nov 27, 2013)

Mine came with Edisonbright's I imagine some sort of rebranded primaries, but I'm using Nitecore rcr123's (NL166) in it... they both work fine..


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## Capolini (Nov 27, 2013)

A.O. said:


> Mine came with Edisonbright's I imagine some sort of rebranded primaries, but I'm using Nitecore rcr123's (NL166) in it... they both work fine..



Same here!!!! I will be using the Edisonbrights for my Nitecore SENS when my Titanium Innovation CR123 supply run out.

I think we bought it from the same place and dealer!


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## A.O. (Nov 27, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Same here!!!! I will be using the Edisonbrights for my Nitecore SENS when my Titanium Innovation CR123 supply run out.
> 
> I think we bought it from the same place and dealer!



I got mine for my birthday, but it came from amazon.. they list it with the Edisonbrights..

As I get enough RCR123's I'm relegating the rest of my primary lithiums to my SHTF stash..


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## spark001uk (Nov 27, 2013)

Ok I think it's going to have to be the Nitecores then. Not cheap here in UK though, £8.49 each! ($13.82). That's on ebay, haven't checked online stores yet.

Talking of ebay, just saw some newer versions of the ultrafire 123s. Wow, they're now a whopping 1200mAh!! As if.


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## A.O. (Nov 27, 2013)

spark001uk said:


> Ok I think it's going to have to be the Nitecores then. Not cheap here in UK though, £8.49 each! ($13.82). That's on ebay, haven't checked online stores yet.
> 
> Talking of ebay, just saw some newer versions of the ultrafire 123s. Wow, they're now a whopping 1200mAh!! As if.



Here is where I got mine... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitecore-RC...US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item4abd13266b

$14.95 a pair... not sure on shipping to the UK though..


----------



## spark001uk (Nov 27, 2013)

How about these? http://www.flashaholics.co.uk/batteries/aw-rcr123a.html


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## A.O. (Nov 27, 2013)

spark001uk said:


> How about these? http://www.flashaholics.co.uk/batteries/aw-rcr123a.html



*BINGO!!!* We have a winner!


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## spark001uk (Nov 27, 2013)

A question on these AW - They do a 750mAh protected cell (black wrapper with a silver label and red stripe), or they do a safe chemistry LiMn 550mAh IMR (red wrapper) for the same price. Which would I be better off getting?


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## Capolini (Nov 27, 2013)

spark001uk said:


> A question on these AW - They do a 750mAh protected cell (black wrapper with a silver label and red stripe), or they do a safe chemistry LiMn 550mAh IMR (red wrapper) for the same price. Which would I be better off getting?



If I were choosing one of those, I would go with the 750mAh protected cell. The same one SB used for his test.


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## spark001uk (Nov 28, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> The Ultrafire charger is fine, but Ultrafire-brand rechargeable cells should be avoided - they typically don't meet stated specs, and often do not hold their charge.
> 
> I use AW RCRs exclusively, but other "name" brands (including known light manufacturers) should be fine. Check out the electronics/battery forum here for reviews and discussions on this topic.



I just did a quick set of measurements at work discharging one of the Ultrafires with a 10R load (about 370mA) and knocked a chart up. Speaks for itself I guess! I make that about half hr @370mA so that equates to about 185mAh. That's shocking!!


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## A.O. (Nov 28, 2013)

Well apparently its not "shocking" enough!!


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## Capolini (Dec 2, 2013)

Does anyone know the approximate lumen output after the "Defined Step down" when It levels off to the "lower high"?

SB?

Thanks


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## spark001uk (Dec 2, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Does anyone know the approximate lumen output after the "Defined Step down" when It levels off to the "lower high"?
> 
> SB?
> 
> Thanks



Looking at the graphs, assuming "relative output" is a linear value, I would say about 80% on a primary which would be about 320 ish lumen, and about 75% for rcr, which taking into account the slightly extra power from the cell would probably be about the same? Just a guess though, as I say assuming the value is linear. 

On another note, I'm on my AW blacks now, (thanks to Flashaholics for a speedy service), and they're holding up way better than the ultrafire-risk !


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## selfbuilt (Dec 3, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Does anyone know the approximate lumen output after the "Defined Step down" when It levels off to the "lower high"?





spark001uk said:


> Looking at the graphs, assuming "relative output" is a linear value, I would say about 80% on a primary which would be about 320 ish lumen,


It's not linear, but rather a power relationship (as described in the links in the methods section of the review). In any case, your estimate is pretty good - it is indeed around 320 lumens on my estimated scale.


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## Capolini (Dec 3, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> It's not linear, but rather a power relationship (as described in the links in the methods section of the review). In any case, your estimate is pretty good - it is indeed around 320 lumens on my estimated sale.




Thanks SB  "Estimated sale"???!!! I am busting your shoes!  I know you meant "scale"!! Like I never made a mistake!!

I have been on an EDC binge lately. I just ordered the S10's older brother, the S20,,,,,,,,,,,,Black Friday/Cyber Monday Flashaholic Mania!!


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 4, 2013)

Just received my Black Friday S10 and have been putting it through it's paces. All seems good, though the moonlight seems a bit brighter than 0.5, and is fairly green. On higher levels the tint is better. Very pleased with the UI and side switch operation. One curious difference in mine is that the reflector is quite smooth. I see no orange peel at all. It's like the pic in Nordicflash's review from a while back. All other reviews I've seen show a light orange peel reflector. I'm not sure it makes much difference, as the beam looks good. I wonder if it's been unofficially changed, since, as usual, I'm late in the S10 game.

Now I must wrap it back up and wait for Christmas morning to play with it again.

Geoff


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## AbbyY (Dec 5, 2013)

Flying Turtle said:


> ... One curious difference in mine is that the reflector is quite smooth. I see no orange peel at all. It's like the pic in Nordicflash's review from a while back. All other reviews I've seen show a light orange peel reflector. I'm not sure it makes much difference, as the beam looks good. I wonder if it's been unofficially changed, since, as usual, I'm late in the S10 game...



You're right Geoff. I bought yesterday S10 and S20 and both of them had SMO reflector. As you said, it's about an unannounced switch from OP to SMO reflector because even my dealer didn't know that. When I told him about the difference he brought from warehouse two older S10 L2 and S20 L2 (an older batch I mean) and both of them had OP. Although I could change the two Olight for OP version, I did not because I am confortable with SMO. IMO, OP is good for more lumens (less losses) but SMO throws better (we compared both of them and SMO was better focused than OP).


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## NorthernStar (Dec 5, 2013)

AbbyY said:


> You're right Geoff. I bought yesterday S10 and S20 and both of them had SMO reflector. As you said, it's about an unannounced switch from OP to SMO reflector because even my dealer didn't know that. When I told him about the difference he brought from warehouse two older S10 L2 and S20 L2 (an older batch I mean) and both of them had OP. Although I could change the two Olight for OP version, I did not because I am confortable with SMO. IMO, OP is good for more lumens (less losses) but SMO throws better (we compared both of them and SMO was better focused than OP).



Did not know that!  Mine S20-L2 has the OP reflector and at Olights website the S10-L2 and the S20-L2 displayed there are also OP.


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## Capolini (Dec 5, 2013)

My S10 is also SMO.I got it a few weeks ago. The S20 will be here tomorrow!

I see what your saying about getting SMO instead of the OP reflector.

Overall I like the torch.

What matters more to me is I wish I could change Two things.

The Yellowish tint[I like Cool white] and the lack of a "Low Battery Indicator" on this S10 L2 version.

Beside more output, more run time[18650 battery], I got the S20 L2 because it Does have the low Battery Indicator! I am sure it will still have the "Yellowish" tint,,,,,,I am learning to over look that!


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## spark001uk (Dec 7, 2013)

It does have a low batt indicator - the beam brightness drops! 

No seriously, I get a significant drop in the brightness, then it starts flickering, then the battery protection cuts in I guess (not let it get that far as yet).
Could even be why they decided the red light wasn't entirely necessary, who knows?


----------



## RetroTechie (Dec 7, 2013)

More likely a simplification to help make it an affordable light (just speculating here!). Personally I would have preferred a low batt. indicator.

But cycling modes low -> medium -> high -> low etc works too. The difference in output between medium and high is a good indicator:
Big jump from medium -> high: battery in good condition.
Little difference from medium -> high: battery is largely depleted.
High mode is skipped entirely: battery is near empty. With an RCR123 you should read this as: "swap battery ASAP.  If you can't right now (but need the light), switch to moonlight or low to prevent over-discharge".


----------



## xcnick (Dec 8, 2013)

Flying Turtle said:


> Now I must wrap it back up and wait for Christmas morning to play with it again.
> Geoff



I will keep playing until the last minuet before wrapping it back up to see what will break. 

I know this about the flashlight, but I also got the diffuser or traffic wand as they call it. It cracked the first day. A review on battery juction mentioned his cracked so I am obviously not the first. Searching other threads I saw mention of another brand that might work. Has anyone tried this one?

http://www.manafont.com/product_inf...er-for-flashlights-23mm-inner-diameter-p-4442

I guess manafont is a dealextreme or kai type store. I have never order from them, anybody else?

Direct to moonlight and the diffuser is the greatest thing since sliced bread for a motivational speaker who lives in a van down by the river (or Wal-mart). I have a small army of lights and this is the best EDC for me. It is as if they tried to add everything anybody ever posted and I like all of it. 

Mine came with the new reflector too.


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## NorthernStar (Dec 8, 2013)

xcnick said:


> I will keep playing until the last minuet before wrapping it back up to see what will break.
> 
> I know this about the flashlight, but I also got the diffuser or traffic wand as they call it. It cracked the first day. A review on battery juction mentioned his cracked so I am obviously not the first. Searching other threads I saw mention of another brand that might work. Has anyone tried this one?
> 
> ...



Mine traffic wand also got cracked within a few days of use,so you are not the first user to experience this! I have both the traffic wand and the filter for my S20-L2. My traffic wand even had small cracks right out of the box. The filter that i have got cracked in half after i dropped the flashlight to the woodfloor. These acessories are of low quality! The plastic is to thin to be durable to impacts. The diffuser tips for example from Fenix is made of thicker plastic and are more durable.

The diffuser showed in the link you posted are of the same inner diameter(23mm) as the S10 and S20, so i think it will fit.


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## xevious (Dec 10, 2013)

Great review, sb!

I love mine. One of my best flashlight buys. I just wish the switch cover was a good quality GITD. The material they use is too dim and doesn't last long. But of course, in the new version they did away with it completely.

If there's one thing I really like about the new one, it's the instant high beam by double clicking from OFF. VERY nice and intuitive.


----------



## caucasion (Dec 18, 2013)

awesome review! i ended up purchasing the M10 due to having a need for the rear tail cap switch, but will be purchasing the s10 as a "throwdown" light shortly :thumbsup:


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## Hostil1 (Dec 24, 2013)

Nice. I have the 2012 S10 because of your review last year.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 25, 2013)

Hostil1 said:


> Nice. I have the 2012 S10 because of your review last year.


:welcome:


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## xcnick (Dec 25, 2013)

xcnick said:


> It is as if they tried to add everything anybody ever posted and I like all of it.



Yes, I said that. However after opening my Christmas present I did talk about one more thing.

I had to wrap up an old Fenix diffuser I hogged out to 23 mm to include in package because as mentioned the Olight one was broken before I could even wrap it. While showing off how it worked I came up with what I really wanted in a diffuser.

The suggestion is a diffuser that could fit over the back of the light when not in use. Something shaped more like a chapstick cap that fit over both ends. Genius? or just one more idiotic suggestion the manufacturers should ignore.


----------



## Gene (Dec 26, 2013)

This light to me seems to be one of the best EDC's ever. Side switch, (which I love), simple UI, quality build and very small and powerful. Good stuff!


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 26, 2013)

I agree with all you said, Gene. Now that I've unwrapped this present to myself it's been spending a lot of time in the pocket. 

Geoff


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## Capolini (Dec 27, 2013)

It is a very nice, petite and powerful torch!

I just wish they would have kept the "Low Battery Indicator" from the original! It bothers me that the light will just shut off and I am always wondering what the Voltage is!! So I test it several times. 

HJK told me that the battery will not last as long if it keeps using its protection.

I bought the S20 also because that torch RETAINED its Low Battery indicator". Plus I like 18650 batteries much better for several reasons.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 27, 2013)

Capolini said:


> I just wish they would have kept the "Low Battery Indicator" from the original! It bothers me that the light will just shut off and I am always wondering what the Voltage is!! So I test it several times.


There was no low voltage readout on the original S10 - only the S20 (which is maintained in the 2013 version).



> HJK told me that the battery will not last as long if it keeps using its protection.


Yes, it is not good to repeatedly run a cell down to the level where the protection circuit kicks in. I would recommend you periodically stop and recharge - that's what I do with all my EDC lights on rotation.


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## Capolini (Dec 27, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> There was no low voltage readout on the original S10 - only the S20 (which is maintained in the 2013 version).
> 
> 
> Yes, it is not good to repeatedly run a cell down to the level where the protection circuit kicks in. I would recommend you periodically stop and recharge - that's what I do with all my EDC lights on rotation.



I mixed them up!! :shrug: Thanks for clarifying that SB.

I wish the S10 was like the S20 in regards to a "Low battery/voltage indicator"!

I only use the light around the house[inside and last dog break b/4 bed!]. I am constantly checking the voltage!! I usually charge it b/w 3.5v and 3.7v. I have charged the battery about 20 times[less than a month of use] and the protection shut it off twice!


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## Gene (Dec 27, 2013)

Flying Turtle said:


> I agree with all you said, Gene. Now that I've unwrapped this present to myself it's been spending a lot of time in the pocket.
> 
> Geoff



Funny Geoff because that's exactly what I did too. It hasn't arrived yet, but the S10 was MY Christmas present to ME!


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## n00blumen (Dec 29, 2013)

Just got this light for Christmas it's perfect EDC light for me. As my name states I'm new to this flashlight world. Anyone try the color filters on this yet? I work outside at night. 

Also I'm seeing that the aw rcr123 black protected batteries are the best way to go, that true?

Sorry for the stupid questions it's a bit over whelming reading all these posts.


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## Capolini (Dec 29, 2013)

n00blumen said:


> Just got this light for Christmas it's perfect EDC light for me. As my name states I'm new to this flashlight world. Anyone try the color filters on this yet? I work outside at night.
> 
> Also I'm seeing that the aw rcr123 black protected batteries are the best way to go, that true?
> 
> Sorry for the stupid questions it's a bit over whelming reading all these posts.



Welcome!!!! 

AW is a good battery. I am using a Nitecore NL166. From what I remember as far as RCR/16340 Batteries go the Nitecore and AW batteries fit best for this light. There was another type someone from Europe mentioned, I can't remember it!

Anyway , Selfbuilt[flashlight reviewer] uses AW. It is a shorter battery and good quality so you can not go wrong!

In regards to the "color filters", I have no experience with that.

There are a lot of helpful and knowledgeable people on here who will certainly chime in and give you suggestions!


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## n00blumen (Dec 29, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Welcome!!!!
> 
> AW is a good battery. I am using a Nitecore NL166. From what I remember as far as RCR/16340 Batteries go the Nitecore and AW batteries fit best for this light. There was another type someone from Europe mentioned, I can't remember it!
> 
> ...


Thanks for the fast reply! I think I'll be trying the aw ones. I only need 2-3 spares just in case. 
I noticed something else interesting everyone on these reviews shows their s10 having a reflector with an orange peel like finish and mine is completely smooth in there.


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## NorthernStar (Dec 30, 2013)

n00blumen said:


> Thanks for the fast reply! I think I'll be trying the aw ones. I only need 2-3 spares just in case.
> I noticed something else interesting everyone on these reviews shows their s10 having a reflector with an orange peel like finish and mine is completely smooth in there.




The color filters/diffusers are available in four colors, white,red,green and blue and fits the S10,S20,M10 and M18. I have the white diffuser and it spreads the beam wider beuatifuly and makes the light softer to the eyes. If you work outside at night i think you will find the filters very useful. For ordinary use when preservation of nightvision is not a priority the white is great,but if you have to preseve your nightvision you should try the red filter.I have the traffic wand as well.

However, a little word of caution regarding these accessories is that they are not solid build.






The traffic wand scattered after a few days of use, and the filter cracked in half after i dropped in on the floor while attached to my S20-L2. I did receive replacement new ones from my dealer, but they are a bit fragile so know. I have filters and wands from other manufacturers that are made of thicker plastic and more solid that has not cracked like the Olights.

Regarding the OP reflector that was standard on all S10 and S20, Olight has now made a design change and they now come with smooth reflectors. Both my old S20 and my S20-L2 has the OP reflector, so i can´t do any comparsion between the beams of the OP vs the SMO reflector. The OP reflector should give a little more flood, while the SMO reflector should give a little better throw.


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## mightysparrow (Dec 31, 2013)

Great review - helpful for me in helping me determine that I should probably invest in a different light. The Olight S10 appears to be a fantastic light and a great value compared to other similar lights, as many have commented. I would love the tiny size. However, for my use, it is more useful to have a lower "high" light output level that has a longer runtime. Having a burst of 400 lumens for a few minutes is less useful to me than a longer runtime of a lower output level. I would also benefit from having light levels a tad more spread out -say 250 or 200 for high, 100 for medium, 50 or 40 or 30 for low and 5 or lower for low-low, if possible.


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## Gene (Jan 6, 2014)

Well, I just received my S10-L2 a couple of days ago. It's a neat little light but there is a slight green tint in ALL modes. It's not horribly green but you can definitely see it.


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## Capolini (Jan 6, 2014)

Gene said:


> Well, I just received my S10-L2 a couple of days ago. It's a neat little light but there is a slight green tint in ALL modes. It's not horribly green but you can definitely see it.


 I have the S10-L2 and the S20-L2 and they both have a "Yellowish" tint. My other Olights[M22 and MX3] are a cool white which is my favorite.

It is a neat little torch. I am starting to get use to the tint,,,,,,my only complaint is I wish it had a low battery indicator like the S20!

Overall, I am glad I have both of them!


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## Petir (Jan 14, 2014)

I have just received my S10-L2 which is Neutral White, and max 360 lumens. Inside the packaging, additionally I also got a plastic S-biner and two small Olight brochures. The flashlight has smooth reflector, the clip and magnet is strong, and the anodizing looks great. However, the Olight name, serial number, and the S10 Baton marking are stamped very poor (faded and blurred). The tailcap thread does not feel smooth, but probably it just need some grease on it. The tailcap needs to be screwed in really tight before the flashlight can be turned on. 

I bought it from ebay. What do you think? Is this an authentic S10?

Another thing, I have 2 Nitecore 16340 batteries and found out that one battery does not fit. The other one is tightly fit, I was able to remove it only by shaking the flashlight.
Surefire CR123 works fine though.


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## n00blumen (Jan 14, 2014)

*Olight S10-L2 (S10 2013, XM-L2, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VI...*

The threading is kinda gritty feeling and it does need to be tight to turn on. I will say my olight is marked well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Capolini (Jan 14, 2014)

Petir said:


> I have just received my S10-L2 which is Neutral White, and max 360 lumens. Inside the packaging, additionally I also got a plastic S-biner and two small Olight brochures. The flashlight has smooth reflector, the clip and magnet is strong, and the anodizing looks great. However, the Olight name, serial number, and the S10 Baton marking are stamped very poor (faded and blurred). The tailcap thread does not feel smooth, but probably it just need some grease on it. The tailcap needs to be screwed in really tight before the flashlight can be turned on.
> 
> I bought it from ebay. What do you think? Is this an authentic S10?
> 
> ...



Are your Nitecore 16340 batteries have NL166 on them? I have that battery and it fits fine,no need to shake light with mine!


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## Petir (Jan 15, 2014)

*Re: Olight S10-L2 (S10 2013, XM-L2, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VI...*



n00blumen said:


> The threading is kinda gritty feeling and it does need to be tight to turn on. I will say my olight is marked well.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Battery Junction is selling S10-L2 NW version and has some pictures of it. The marking on my flashlight is really poor as compare to their pictures.
One of their picture shows that there is serial number printed on the head, my flashlight does not have it. The serial number is only on the body.
I have sent an e-mail to Olight asking if they can help to identify my light. Hope they will reply soon.


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## Petir (Jan 15, 2014)

Capolini said:


> Are your Nitecore 16340 batteries have NL166 on them? I have that battery and it fits fine,no need to shake light with mine!



Yes, NL166 with yellow-black blister packaging. I have just bought an Energizer CR123A and it fits fine. 

It looks like the NL166's circuit protection metal tab and the wrapping are causing the diameter variances.


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## Capolini (Jan 15, 2014)

*Re: Olight S10-L2 (S10 2013, XM-L2, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VI...*



Petir said:


> Battery Junction is selling S10-L2 NW version and has some pictures of it. The marking on my flashlight is really poor as compare to their pictures.
> One of their picture shows that there is serial number printed on the head, my flashlight does not have it. The serial number is only on the body.
> I have sent an e-mail to Olight asking if they can help to identify my light. Hope they will reply soon.




From what you described your S10 may be an imposter[fake]! Between the serial number and the tube being too small for the NL166 does not make sense. That is one of only a few 16340 batteries that will fit according to one of the reviewers, I think it was Flashlion.


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## Petir (Jan 15, 2014)

*Re: Olight S10-L2 (S10 2013, XM-L2, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VI...*



Capolini said:


> From what you described your S10 may be an imposter[fake]! Between the serial number and the tube being too small for the NL166 does not make sense. That is one of only a few 16340 batteries that will fit according to one of the reviewers, I think it was Flashlion.



I have only two 16340 which is NL166 and one CR123 flashlight so I can't really make a comparison. I going to borrow a good camera to take some pictures to be sent to Olight.

Does your S10-L2 Neutral White have its serial number on the head?

I compared a few S10-L2 pictures I found on the web. It seems that for the Cool White version the serial number is on the head whereas for the Neutral White version it is on the body.


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## Capolini (Jan 15, 2014)

*Re: Olight S10-L2 (S10 2013, XM-L2, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VI...*



Petir said:


> I have only two 16340 which is NL166 and one CR123 flashlight so I can't really make a comparison. I going to borrow a good camera to take some pictures to be sent to Olight.
> 
> Does your S10-L2 Neutral White have its serial number on the head?
> 
> I compared a few S10-L2 pictures I found on the web. It seems that for the Cool White version the serial number is on the head whereas for the Neutral White version it is on the body.


 Yes, mine is Cool White and serial # is on head.Same w/my S20.


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## selfbuilt (Jan 16, 2014)

*Re: Olight S10-L2 (S10 2013, XM-L2, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VI...*



Petir said:


> I have sent an e-mail to Olight asking if they can help to identify my light. Hope they will reply soon.


That is really the best course of action. It's hard to know from our end, since manufacturers can change labeling styles and patterns (and can have bad batches). Some manufacturers also have regional variances, depending on the market a light is sold in. I am sure Olight will be able to clarify for you.


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## RLROCK (Feb 14, 2014)

An awesome review and great comments made me purchase this little beauty. It arrived 2 days ago, and I am very happy with the "honeymoon" period so far. 

I want to read your review of the S20-L2 and see if it might be my next purchase for camping carry.

Thanks.


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## coltchris (Mar 12, 2014)

Have the new S10-L2 on the way. I know the AW RCR's are highly recommended. I have a few AW IMR 16340's I use in my Incendio and wonder if anyone has used them in the new S10-L2. Thoughts on using them?


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## selfbuilt (Mar 12, 2014)

coltchris said:


> Have the new S10-L2 on the way. I know the AW RCR's are highly recommended. I have a few AW IMR 16340's I use in my Incendio and wonder if anyone has used them in the new S10-L2. Thoughts on using them?


There is no need for IMR cells in the S10-L2 - it isn't driven hard enough to take advantage of IMR chemistry. You are best sticking with standard protected ICR.


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## tallboybass (Apr 29, 2014)

I ordered an S10-L2 in Neutral White from Going Gear....anyone else have one? What's the tint like? Thanks!


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## Richwouldnt (May 12, 2014)

My new S10 XM-L2 arrived today and I am impressed. Getting a side switch setup in a package only 10mm longer than my several years old Titanium Four Sevens Q Mini 123 with it's twist operation is impressive. So is the maximum output of this little monster compared to the older light. Definitely my new go to EDC light.


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## tallboybass (May 15, 2014)

tallboybass said:


> I ordered an S10-L2 in Neutral White from Going Gear....anyone else have one? What's the tint like? Thanks!


Finally got it, they sent the cool white version so it took a while to get that straightened out. The tint seems closest to a 4C, which is about my favorite tint!


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## gkbain (Jun 19, 2014)

I know this thread is getting a little long in the tooth but I thought I would share my experience with the S10. I really like this little light. It is almost perfect for me for night stand duty. I got the NW version which I really like for close quarters. The color is very near the TK20 I also have. When I compare the S10 to my SC52L2 CW it is not quite as bright as the Zebralight. Due to tint and and slightly lower lm it is still my choice. I like memory, magnet, size, and of course tint. If you are looking for a very small light you might want to look at the S10. SB review was for a CW model so all the numbers will be a little lower again because of tint. This is my 3rd NW light in my collection and I am sold.


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## AbbyY (Jun 19, 2014)

I am totally agree with you *gkbain*
I like it so much that I have 5 of them: 3 CW and 2 NW. I also make a present other 2 for some friends.


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## donaudi (Jun 23, 2014)

I am looking at getting the S10 nw or a S20 which do you guys prefer. Also compared to d25c, v11 or similar.


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## Ryp (Jun 29, 2014)

Would you say the 0.5 lumen mode on the S10 is drastically different than the 1 lumen mode on the P12?


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## selfbuilt (Jun 29, 2014)

Ryp said:


> Would you say the 0.5 lumen mode on the S10 is drastically different than the 1 lumen mode on the P12?


There is likely some variation between samples (and potentially over time), but my S10 2013 was ~0.3 lumens, and my P12 was ~0.8 lumens in my lightbox. Certainly enough to notice in the dark with dark-adapted eyes. But either is likely fine for most tasks.


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## stew77 (Feb 2, 2015)

Hi, I just have a simple question about the S10 which one or two of you may be able to help with - the only retailer in my area selling this light is still stocking the older 320Lm version. I realise that the new L2 chip has greater lumens, but is the old one still a good purchase? I mean would I be mad to buy the old model as the newer one has been out for a while or is there a significant improvement with the newer L2 model? Does the extra 80 lumens make that much difference in the real world and does the new model do anything extra that the old one didn't? 

Thanks in advance!


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## selfbuilt (Feb 2, 2015)

stew77 said:


> I realise that the new L2 chip has greater lumens, but is the old one still a good purchase? I mean would I be mad to buy the old model as the newer one has been out for a while or is there a significant improvement with the newer L2 model? Does the extra 80 lumens make that much difference in the real world and does the new model do anything extra that the old one didn't?


As detailed in the review, the 2013 edition was more evolutionary than revolutionary. I think the old model is still quite serviceable. However, Olight kept the price the same when they updated, so there was no incentive to buy the older model. Unless your local vendor is offering a really good price, you might want to see what you can find online.

:welcome:


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