# Review: Imalent HR20 XP-L HI Rechargeable Headlamp



## JohnnyMac (Nov 29, 2016)

*Imalent HR20 XP-L HI Rechargeable Headlamp*
* Imalent HR20 provided courtesy of Imalent in exchange for my unbiased honest review.




*
IMALENT'S MARKETING DESCRIPTION*
The HR20 is a versatile USB rechargeable headlamp with extensive runtime, extremely light weight and impressive output for outdoor use. A CREE XP-L HI LED delivers 1000 lumens impressive flood light. Powered by 1 pcs of 18650 Li-ion rechargeable battery or 2 pcs CR123 Lithium batteries which will provide the runtime of 360 hours to the headlight. Rotary infinite brightness adjustable, which practicality enhances outdoor applications. Utilizes patented reflector vacuum coating cup with floodlight and spotlight, can be called as “outdoor lighting artifact”.

Features
* An easy to carry light weight and compact aluminum headlight
* Utilizes CREE XP-L HI LED with maximum output up to 1000 lumens
* Powered by 1 pcs of 18650 Li-ion rechargeable battery or 2 pcs CR123 Li-ion 
batteries which will provide the runtime of 360 hours to the headlight
* Instant adjustable brightness, which practicality enhances outdoor applications
* With built-in USB charging port, the battery can be re-charged at any time so the 
battery will never running out of power
* Built-in thermal control module will automatically adjust the output of brightness 
according to the working state and outer temperature
* High efficiency constant power circuit will maintains constant brightness 
* Anti-reverse battery protection
* Combination of toughened ultra-clear mineral and anti-reflective coating glass
* Aerospace-grade aluminum alloy body
* Wear resistant Type III hard-anodized surface treatment
* By using the comfortable, breathable and elastic material in the making
of high quality nylon headband
* IPX-8 standard waterproof (2 meters submersible)
* 1.5m impact resistant
* Tail stand function

*AT A GLANCE*
PROS


Compact size
Excellent build quality with very good machining and anodiing.
NW beam tint and good throw for a small light with SMO reflector and Cree XP-L HI LED
AR coated lens
Super easy to use infinitely variable output
Welcome change to micro-switch instead of touch sensitive button used on Imalent's DM21
Zero visible PWM
Temperature controlled stepdown.
Waterproof
Included 18650 cell
Comfortable head band with both side and top straps for secure wear when active.
Safe internal charging to 4.19V via included USB cable.
Street price of under $50
CONS


Horrible pocket clip
Very small USB cover




^ Great looking EDC capable headlamp here!





^ Sweet SMO reflector and AR coated lens make good use of the Cree XP-L HI NW emitter.


*PERFORMANCE*
This little headlamp is a fantastic thrower for it's size. The "infinitely" variable control with the smooth rotary knob in the head is a joy to use. The HR20 (and the new DM21T) have their UI based off the older DM21 that had the same rotating knob to control output but used a touch sensitive electronic sensor instead of the more physical electronic micro-switch used in the HR20 and DM21T. This is a HUGE improvement over the old DM21 UI. The touch was unreliable, easy to accidentally turn off/on...I HATED it. I recall recommending to them at the time that I didn't like the touch controls and to switch to a physical switch that provided tactile feel. Wouldn't you know it? Along comes 2016 models and they create this awesome HR20 and added the DM21T, a variation of the touch controlled DM21 but with a tactile, physical switch. W00T!


Output is very competitive. The tint on my HR20 is NW (neutral white), especially compared to the tint of the XP-L HI in the DM21T (up for review in the near future) which is CW (cold white). The HR20 and the DM21T utilize the same controls and, I'd imagine, the exact same drivers as well but for some reason, my HR20 has ZERO visible PWM while my DM21T has barely visible PWM. I'm sensitive to PWM and even though the PWM on the DM21T is fast enough to be visible when viewed against a fan but not slow enough to bother my eyes, the HR20 and it's lack of any visible PWM is most welcome.


Let's take a look at measured output now. It's hard to get a headlamp of this type into the Integrating Sphere for an accurate reading but I think I managed to get pretty accurate readings. Measurements were taken with fully charged Imalent 18650 cell that comes with the HR20. The Integrating Sphere is calibrated for accuracy and highest output is measured at both startup and after 30 seconds of being On (ANSI/NEMA FL1 standards).





^ It is very important to note that measuring headlamps with the side-mounted LEDs is very difficult to do accurately in the IS. Readings will not be as accurate as with flashlights with regular front-mounted LEDs. The results should only be used for relative comparison with other side-mounted LED lights like the Skillhunt H03 for example. Throw measurements are as accurate as with any light I've tested and the HR20 is very close to the claimed lux and throw distance. The XP-L HI certainly helps keep the beam optimized for throw. The BLF A6 was chosen for its reflector which is very close in diameter and depth to the HR20.


Let's take a look at the beams next...



^ Here is a little white wall hunting with the HR20. The center spot is very tight and well focused. The NW tint of the XP-L HI used, while not high-CRI, is still very pleasing to the eyes indoors and out.





^ A look at the beam profile shows the pretty tight focus of the beam.





^ Now for a look at the HR20 outdoors. Due to the infinitely variable output I took shots at it's lowest output, 1/3 output, 2/3 output, and 100%. You can really see how well this throws for a headlamp.





^ Above we have some comparison beams with 2 other 18650 headlamps, the Skillhunt H03 and Ultrafire H6, as well as with the BLF A6 which has roughly the same size reflector.




 


^ There is a lot of debate on the forums as to the HR20 being waterproof with it's control knob and port cover. Even I had my doubts and one way to rule them out is to test it. I dropped my running HR20 into a container with 4" of water in it and left it there for 80 minutes (originally the plan was 30 minutes but I forgot about it).




 


^ So what was the result? A headlamp that was, as my dad would say, "dry as a popcorn fart" inside. Not a trace of vapor or moisture inside the lens and reflector and not any inside the battery tube either. I would not hesitate to get the HR20 wet. Not my sample anyway.


*USER INTERFACE (UI)*
The UI is about as easy to use as it gets and about the only thing easier to use would be a single mode light. The switch on the top of the light is small but easy to find by feel and activate. The switch (and charging port) is mounted right on the large rotating top of the light. This rotating knob allows for super simple output adjustment from a low of 1 lumen to a claimed 1000 lumens and any level in between. What I really like about this is that you can set the ouput of the light before you even turn it on. The grooved and ribbed texture macined into the sides of the knob make it easy to operate one-handed. Need extra modes? There are 3 hidden flashy modes: Strobe, SOS, and Beacon that are dead easy to activate when wanted. Here is a quick rundown on the UI...


From OFF


Click to turn On
Output can be adjusted before turning the light On.

Long press for instant access to Strobe
From ON


Click to turn off
Long press to activate hidden Strobe
Long press to switch to SOS
Long press again to activate Beacon
Long press once more to return to regular output
At any point a single click will turn off the HR20

To adjust output simply rotate the knob on the top end of the light.




^ The HR20 is super easy to hold in a reversed cigar grip. It allows your arm to hang freely at your side with hand relaxed and have the side-mounted LED shine right where you need it when walking in the dark. This, and the ability to tail stand and aim where needed from a few inches above the work surface, is why I love to carry this style of light for EDC use. It's especially handy when working in the garage/shop.


*A CLOSE LOOK*
Let's have a look at what you get if you purchase the Imalent HR20...





^ The HR20 arrived in a nice full color retail box.




 


^ Back and sides list details and specs.





^ Standard plastic tray. Mine was a bit torn up in the corner.





^ Included with the light is a head strap, pocket clip, USB charging cable, and spare O-rings. The dual strap head strap is very comfortable and secure.





^ Here is a shot of the included User Manual. Click for large image that is easier to read.


*A CLOSER LOOK...*


 


^ The HR20 is only a few millimeters longer than the Skillhunt H03 and fits nicely in my front jeans pocket, clipped or loose inside. The clean simple design and roatary output design make it a joy to use. While not a potentiometer under that end knob, it seems to be a digitally controlled dimming circuit. While not true infinitely variable output, it has a lot in microsteps in output that make it very close to infinitely variable.





^ The Cree XP-L HI emitter is perfectly centered in the smooth reflector. Imalent makes fantastic smooth reflectors that give very focused hotspots and silky smooth spill and the reflector on the HR20 is no different. If you are looking for a super compact headlamp with great throw this is the only game in town. The HR20 is really mroe than a headlamp. It's a fantastic EDC light.





^ The sides of the head have a nice machined relief design machined into them. Looks very futuristic and reminds me of the styling cues on the Imalent DDT40.





^ The knurling is nicely done and provides adequate grip. The clip attaches very securely with no play.





^ Power switch, indicator LEDs, and USB port are all located on the end of the head. This is fantastic for the power switch but it doesn't leave much space for the USB port cover. It's very tiny and doesn't feel the most secure. You really need to make sure it is seated properly after charging the light or it may not be so waterproof. Some feedback I've seen from a couple other HR20 owners is that the control knob came off when they pulled in the rubber USB port cover. I tried several times and the control knob on my sample is extremely secure. I have no worries about it coming off in use.


^ Yes, you are seeing right...They misspelled "USB" as "USD". LOL.





^ The rotary output knob is my favorite feature on the HR20. It rotates smoothly on my sample and allows super easy adjustment of output with a turn of the thumb. The ultra fine knurling allow excellent grip and dead simple use with one hand..





^ The cover over the charging port lifts up to access the micro-USB charging port.








^ Micro-USB charging works well and shuts off when the cell is fully charged. Indicator LEDs glow red when charging and glow green once fully charged. The cell charges at around .86A and my cells stopped charging at 4.19V.





^ Threading is smooth as silk as I've become accustomed to in Imalent lights. The O-ring seals well and the threads came nicely prelubed from the factory.





^ A look at the driver end of the battery tube.





^ The tail spring is the new standard type seen in many lights these days.





^ The HR20 comes with a 2600mAh cell. I don't have any complaints with it but I do wish they would include a cll that had a bit more capacity to it.


*COMPARISONS*
I've chosen a few of my other headlamps I have with which to compare the Imalent HR20



^ The first two are 16340 lights, the Armytek Tiara C1 and Xtar H1. The others are the Skillhunt H03, Ultrafire H04, and Imalent HR20.





^ A look at the different AR coatings. The Tiara C1 has a more pure blue color to it while the Xtar has the more common purple. The HR20 looks tan or blue depending on how you see it.





^ A direct comparison with the other currently hot competitor, the Skillhunt H03. The charging circuit and rotary knob on the HR20 makes it a bit longer. Two completely different beam patterns though with the H03 being a pure flood. The HR20 is designed for more throw with a smooth spill.





^ The power switch on the HR20 is on the head making it much more pocket friendly than the H03. The H03 was always getting turned on in my pocket and once I got the HR20 it's taken the spot in my pocket for EDC use.





^ The shot above illustrates my biggest complaint with the HR20 - it's pocket clip. Worst clip ever. The friction bump is right where the lip for the clip is making it almost impossible to clip onto my jeans pocket (or anything for that matter). I don't know what they were thinking and they obviously didn't put much thought into it.





^ Fortunately the clip from the H03 fits perfectly on the HR20 making it perfect for carry. I use the H03 in the workshop as extra lighting. If it had the tail magnet of the H03 it would be nearly perfect all around.


*CONCLUSION*
Pocket clip aside, I love this light! It does everything well and is very well made. Great output and intuitive UI make it fun to use. No visible PWM and NW tint are easy on the eyes. Price point is good as well at under $50 online if you check around. Based on my review sample I am very comfortable recommending the HR20 to anyone in need of a focused headlamp or a very versatile EDC light.. Others have experienced issues that my sample does not exhibit. My DM21T has a CW XP-L HI emitter and as my HR20 does not claim to be NW but is, LED tint appears to be a lottery. Expect CW but be happy if it's more neutral? There are quite a few people who are unhappy with the issues on their HR20 but mine has been quite good and I'm not alone from what I've read. Take that however you wish when considering for purchase. I will say that Imalent has to tighten up on their QC when it comes to internal components.


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## jorn (Nov 29, 2016)

This is what it might look like when you yank that usb cord out in a hurry.





As you can see, the electronics are not protected against water at all. You can see two screws on the pic, one on each side of the usb port. One drop on glue on each is all that keeps the top from falling off. Like mine did... And some folks on the "other forum" had the same experience. Glued it back together, and still use the light every day at work.

Try to unscrew the tailcap, put your mouth over the tail and blow until your cheeks looks like Luis Armstrong's and see if you can blow air trough yours. If you can, then its not waterproof. If so, then it's just luck that no water got into the light. The same way if you hold a cup upsidedown under water. Water wont fill the cup, because its full of air. But we can't say " this cup is waterproof, there is no way to fill it up with water"


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## JohnnyMac (Nov 29, 2016)

I know you and a few others have had the knob come off but I wasn't able to duplicate that issue. I pulled hard on the USB several times attempting to duplicate it and it didn't budge at all. Mine laid on it's side for almost an hour and a half and not a hint of water ingress. Sideways cups fill with water. I've taken off the tail cap and blown into it and I look like Luis Armstrong until I hear any hiss come out the other end. Blow hard enough in any light and it will leak air. THis isn't a diving light but my HR20 is clearly more than water resistant enough to drop in water or use in the rain. It's not a swimming or diving light but it is far more waterproof than I expected after having heard stories like yours.

Believe me, if what happened with yours had happened with mine I would have torn it a new A-hole in my review with the worst recommendation possible. My sample works as advertised and that's all I can base my review on.


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## jorn (Nov 29, 2016)

JohnnyMac said:


> Blow hard enough in any light and it will leak air.


 No. Try that with any standard light with o-rings. You cant blow air trough them at all. I go frrediving to 10 meters with my cheap solarforce host without problems. I turn it on, off wave it around underwater etc.
The hr20 is rated to 2 meters depht. Pressure at 2 meters is 1.21 bar, you cant blow 1,21 bar with your mouth. So to put it simply, if you can blow air trough it, it aint waterproof, Thats just a simple rule of thumb. And if you look at my picture, there is nothing at all protecting the top side of the electronics. It's a metal ring around it held in place with two drops of glue. To waterproof the topside of the board, we have to use potting ,and glue everthing, including the brigtness wheel stuck. So i would go far in claming the design is NOT waterproof, and definitly not to 2 meters.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 1, 2016)

Thanks for doing this review! It takes a good deal of effort to review stuff so appreciate your work.


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## Tejasandre (Dec 1, 2016)

Nice review. Mine has been flawless too.


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## Jomohr84 (Jan 15, 2017)

Nice review, I ordered one, seems like a pretty decent headlamp for the price.


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## Genzod (Apr 27, 2017)

jorn said:


> No. Try that with any standard light with o-rings. You cant blow air trough them at all. I go frrediving to 10 meters with my cheap solarforce host without problems. I turn it on, off wave it around underwater etc.
> The hr20 is rated to 2 meters depht. Pressure at 2 meters is 1.21 bar, you cant blow 1,21 bar with your mouth. So to put it simply, if you can blow air trough it, it aint waterproof, Thats just a simple rule of thumb. And if you look at my picture, there is nothing at all protecting the top side of the electronics. It's a metal ring around it held in place with two drops of glue. To waterproof the topside of the board, we have to use potting ,and glue everthing, including the brigtness wheel stuck. So i would go far in claming the design is NOT waterproof, and definitly not to 2 meters.



I appreciate your warning about the cap issue, and I'm not questioning your sincerity in disclosing the problem. I'm wondering however if your "Louis Armstrong" test is flawed in design. Pressure from water comes from outside the headlamp and pushes down on the sealed USB boot reinforcing the seal. Air pressure from within the unit would tend to push the boot out.


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## Genzod (Apr 27, 2017)

Hi, I was curious if you have been using your H20 much, and if it was still holding up after all this time? Any problems yet? 

I was also wondering how the rotory control works. Is it linear? That is, does it produce 50% of it's brightness with a 50% turn of the knob?

I'm curious about the weight of the unit sans battery and headband. Have you had a chance to weigh the stripped down unit?


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## jorn (Apr 28, 2017)

Genzod said:


> I appreciate your warning about the cap issue, and I'm not questioning your sincerity in disclosing the problem. I'm wondering however if your "Louis Armstrong" test is flawed in design. Pressure from water comes from outside the headlamp and pushes down on the sealed USB boot reinforcing the seal. Air pressure from within the unit would tend to push the boot out.


Dont matter, there is no sealing around the knob or ring itself. You clearly can tell on the picture. So there is no difference at all if you have the boot open or closed. Water will reach the electronics going on the sides of the knob. I do make boats for a living, so i know some stuff about keeping water out of electronics, and the hr20 wont get a ip68 or even ip-x8 waterproof stamp in my book


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## Genzod (Apr 28, 2017)

jorn said:


> Dont matter, there is no sealing around the knob or ring itself. You clearly can tell on the picture. So there is no difference at all if you have the boot open or closed. Water will reach the electronics going on the sides of the knob. I do make boats for a living, so i know some stuff about keeping water out of electronics, and the hr20 wont get a ip68 or even ip-x8 waterproof stamp in my book



Okay, I see what you're saying. I must admit. I've read the poor English plagued literature of Imalent. I've seen the mispelling of USB on the boot. (That's no longer an issue though as they have corrected it.) They can't seem to see the value of hiring an American or British firm to sort out their Chinese to English translation problems. That lack of attention concerns me. It makes me wonder if they are cutting corners in design and quality control as well. So I can see and believe what happened to you was very likely real.

I like the light. The control feature is a spectacular idea and perfect for long distance mountain trail runners whose continually changing speed requires lamp intensity variation in order to extend battery life, reduce the need to carry a lot of batteries and thus lower pack weight, a grievous concern when ascending slopes. A little 3M tape and you've got decent dispersed light for running through the entire night. Take the tape off and you have a cannon for detecting trail blazes on distant trees when you get a little lost. (A _little_ lost, hehe..a kinder adjective for a _big_ mistake.)

But the lamp in this review doesn't seem to concur with your warning that the control knob isn't sealed. It doesn't seem to be a design issue--more likely a quality control issue. They may have addressed this problem and it's no longer an issue.

Maybe you have a defective lamp that got by the inspector, and Imalent read your post and compensated by giving attention to the issue. Besides, clearly they don't all leak, so it looks like you had an incompetent assembler make yours. The cap issue itself is not evidence of poor design by virtue of the fact it is not pandemic across the entire production. There are others who seem to have a good seal.

How did Imalent address your warranty claim? Did you get a response from them? Did you get any satisfaction or were you ignored? Can you seal the product with something like silicone? I'd buy it if its easily repairable.


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## jorn (Apr 28, 2017)

The review dont mention it, most likely because you need to tear it apart to see the unprotected eletronics. And the top is held with 2 drops of glue, so you cant take it apart unless it just falls off like mine did. Norway got one of the higest shipping rates in the world, it would cost me more to send it back than to buy a new one. So i did not care about a warranty claim. I just fixed it on the spot after taking the pic. It happend at work, and i always got a glue gun within arms reach, so 2 new dops of glue and it was good as new. Others have had the ring falling off, read about it on blf before i ordered mine for 21$ (if i remember correcly) at a group buy. 

It's a design issue. If they put a o-ring both outside and inside of the control ring, that is tight enuf to seal the light around the brigness dial. You wont be able to effortlessly turn the knob. And the knob is serated, so it's definitely not designed to be a o-ring there. It's a reasnon why other makers of waterproof lights like the v10r uses a magnetic ring system.
My biggest problem with my light is not waterproofnes, but flickering output at certian output levels. I use mine indoors at work with some tape on the lense for more flood so waterproofing is no issue at all for me. Outdoors, i use a floody zebralight. For the price i paid i can live with the flaws. I did not expect zebralight quality from a ~20$ light where the battery was included in the price. But the flickering when the knob is set between two brightness steps is annoying. They might have fixed that problem, but alot of pepole were complaining about the same flicker issue at blf some time ago. It's not all bad. I like the control ring ui, even if it flickers at some spots. And the reflector is fantastic for the xp-l hi. Have modded a lot of lights with xp-l hi leds, and nothing comes close to the reach the hr20 has, nothing with the same size reflector anyway.


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## Genzod (Apr 28, 2017)

jorn said:


> The review dont mention it, most likely because you need to tear it apart to see the unprotected eletronics. And the top is held with 2 drops of glue, so you cant take it apart unless it just falls off like mine did. Norway got one of the higest shipping rates in the world, it would cost me more to send it back than to buy a new one. So i did not care about a warranty claim. I just fixed it on the spot after taking the pic. It happend at work, and i always got a glue gun within arms reach, so 2 new dops of glue and it was good as new. Others have had the ring falling off, read about it on blf before i ordered mine for 21$ (if i remember correcly) at a group buy.
> 
> It's a design issue. If they put a o-ring both outside and inside of the control ring, that is tight enuf to seal the light around the brigness dial. You wont be able to effortlessly turn the knob. And the knob is serated, so it's definitely not designed to be a o-ring there. It's a reasnon why other makers of waterproof lights like the v10r uses a magnetic ring system.
> My biggest problem with my light is not waterproofnes, but flickering output at certian output levels. I use mine indoors at work with some tape on the lense for more flood so waterproofing is no issue at all for me. Outdoors, i use a floody zebralight. For the price i paid i can live with the flaws. I did not expect zebralight quality from a ~20$ light where the battery was included in the price. But the flickering when the knob is set between two brightness steps is annoying. They might have fixed that problem, but alot of pepole were complaining about the same flicker issue at blf some time ago. It's not all bad. I like the control ring ui, even if it flickers at some spots. And the reflector is fantastic for the xp-l hi. Have modded a lot of lights with xp-l hi leds, and nothing comes close to the reach the hr20 has, nothing with the same size reflector anyway.



Well Jorn, thank you again for calling my attention to this issue. I'm not sure exactly why this reviewer's lamp didn't leak if it is as you say a design flaw. I'll take a closer look at how this knob is attached.


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## Genzod (Apr 29, 2017)

Jorn, what is that ring inside the cap...do you know what is is made of? It looks like more of a spacer than a rubber gasket of some kind. I imagine that is where the glue comes in contact with the screws? Is it likewise glued on the opposite side onto the cap? Is there any other analysis of the cap design going into more detail that you can direct me to?


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## jorn (Apr 29, 2017)

Its metal. And yeah. The two drops of glue was on the screws. You only see one screw in the picture, there is one on the oposite side. Other pepole have taken pictures of the topless hr20 at budgetlightforums, with the head disasemeled.


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## Genzod (Apr 29, 2017)

I found a better view of the internals here: http://i64.tinypic.com/6p0tux.jpg The screws are flathead and recessed below the rim. It seems if one uses a waterproof glue around the rim and excess on the screw heads, the electronics would be sealed. Maybe that was the designed intent. The way this lamp was put together http://i.imgur.com/BxLVBfY.jpg tells me the issues are poor workmanship and quality control.

It doesn't matter. Although it's evident Imalent has taken notice and they are trying to correct issues (new batch with blue head and no "USD" appears to be a better build--I read at a Russian forum review of this lamp in the comments that blowing into that particular build doesn't leak air) the flicker issues created by sloppy anodization interfering with the tail cap connection and poor heat conductive path created by anodization and a shabby thermal paste has killed my confidence in this lamp and the company itself.


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## jorn (Apr 30, 2017)

I notice the wire with the broken insulation on pic 2. Noticed the same ting on mine when i first took the reflector out to check how it was buildt, and see if a led swap for a neutral led was a easy task. Mine had 2 wires with broken insulation. Tought it was a lemon thing, so didnt tink it was worth mentioning. But now when i see mine is not the only one with stripped wires inside.. Now thats just sloppy qualitycontrol.


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## Genzod (May 1, 2017)

jorn said:


> I notice the wire with the broken insulation on pic 2. Noticed the same ting on mine when i first took the reflector out to check how it was buildt, and see if a led swap for a neutral led was a easy task. Mine had 2 wires with broken insulation. Tought it was a lemon thing, so didnt tink it was worth mentioning. But now when i see mine is not the only one with stripped wires inside.. Now thats just sloppy qualitycontrol.



Author on Reddit did a rebuild with a Nichia 319A. Thre are numerous photos linked to his review.

A certain popular retailer online is selling the HR20 without choice of cap color (random blue and black). I wonder if they are intentionally mixing in the old batch with the new because the black cap batch was the one plagued with all sorts of issues. I'm not playing the lottery with my headlamp purchase. If I'm ever to buy one of these just for the novelty of the rotary dial, it will be neutral white in the blue cap. No choice, no money. That simple.


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## Offgridled (May 1, 2017)

Great review. Thx


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## degarb (May 2, 2017)

COMMENT: Looks very similar to my ideal single 18650. Except the 1000 lumen target, 10 watts, would mean the led is slammed at super high current - low efficiency - even as you pwm downward toward a light that isn't just a wow toy. The high is more a strike against the light than a plus. Drivers are cheap enough, they can include 2 drivers, one infinitely variable with efficient sane high for work and another wow toy driver. . 2x18650 xpl buck driver is my work horse. This is a good design for belt, momentary on when loading basement garage tools, or backup worklight for the real workhorse. 


QUESTIONS : Where can we buy this ramping driver for our own designs? Also, what does this gobbdy gook mean: Utilizes patented reflector vacuum coating cup with floodlight and spotlight, can be called as “outdoor lighting artifact”??


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## degarb (May 2, 2017)

I guess not even owners know what the vacuum cup, outdoor artifact means. Probably, a bad Google Translation from Chinese. 

The one modder on reddit was swapping lenses for frosted. This makes no sense. Think about it: a glass AR lens is fragile and expensive. By default, it should have a plastic flip frosted diffuser, to protect lens when carrying it around. So, make your own. There may be better designs, until then, I cut a lens sized circle with tabs from frosted part of milk jug. Amazing goop one strip of black Walmart elastic to tabs, glue elastic to back of head. Flip back your diffuser for throw. I also played around with hole in center of diffuser for less loss and center heavy beam. 

Cc driver? I could not make much of the reddit numbers as he lacked labeling details, making his tables unintelligible. Already, purchased from gearbest, now I see the coupon codes for bang good. Bang selling bad batch of these? Seems low.


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## degarb (May 12, 2017)

Got mine last night. My opinions. Smallest lightest single 18650 I have seen, which is great. Much smaller than my single cell convoy, and other lights I have made and purchased. Design is nearly flawless. For purposes, of an edc and aid in loading stuff in morning, it is best design. Worked great as a reading light with my daughter last night. The xpl-hi should also have an acceptable lux to wattage ratio that allow me to use the light for 8 hours at work, inspecting, when I forget my real work lights.

I wouldn't trust the waterproofing: there is an obvious, acceptable, trade off of water resistance for the usb port and infinite variability. Presently I can foresee buying some black water proof vinyl and glue on a foreskin-cut to shape- to surround the ring and usb port. I would need to cut a slit to allow ring control. ..I hope they fixed the glue in electrinic area, as I see nowhere to put glue to prevent this.

My own single 18650 builds use a xp-l hi V5 5300 Kelvin, which seems to me-not only a way better tint- but much more efficient. My guess is they use a V2 bin 6500 Kelvin, rather than shelling out an extra $4 for a better bin of led. ... However, as a morning light, the cooler color, with more blue in key wavelength, will wake my brain up better. It is a very narrow band of blue that are needed to reset the circadian rhythms.

I will give this light a 9.5 (1 to 10 scale) on design where better shrouding of electronics appears necessary, and 8 on execution (apparent low bin led and glue production issue)--at this point in time. My opinion could change, if it breaks. I should add that the light's head band, as well as the light, simply looks cool.

Now, back to main reason that I bought this light: the driver. Anyone figure out if this is a true Buck driver, and the ring is a sense resistor? Or is it another piece of 7135 pwm junk, with %75 efficiency at a watt, unless used on 100%?... (Uses at a wattish, the head got hotter than the convoy, so maybe some sense resistor. Need to reproduce test.)

Next test is tail cap ma reading. Than lux over 10 hours to see if it stays cc, at an acceptable lux that isn't all out high.


----------



## Genzod (May 12, 2017)

degarb,

Could you do the leakage "blow test" recommended in this thread, and tell us the results? Also, what color is the cap and where did you buy it from?


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## degarb (May 12, 2017)

Just did one mod. I cut a 1 inch by 2 inch piece from (peanut can foil) pie pan, painted it black, and glued at one point onto light, for rain, paint, and dust protection of ring and usb port. Being metal foil nature, I can shape and wrap around as desired.

I will replace this piece with a more durable one, coated in 100% loxon s1 black polyurethane caulk, for tear resistance. I may attach it with epoxy loaded with copper, aluminum, or zinc dust.


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## degarb (May 12, 2017)

Genzod said:


> degarb,
> 
> Could you do the leakage "blow test" recommended in this thread, and tell us the results? Also, what color is the cap and where did you buy it from?



I don't swim with my lights, I don't work in the rain. I will always trade function for water proofing. I can buy a $10 water proof light anywhere. Just won't have led, electronics, runtime, weight, or brightness I need.

So, I never expected this light to be anything more than quick rain downpour resistant--if that. 

And yes, if I take off tail cap, remove battery, I can force air through the ring and head.

But in return, I have infinite brightness (absolute best runtime possible) and usb charging (for seldom used edc, I found I am too tired to daily pull out cells and charge in tin).

I will wear this light on my belt. I do daily get splashed with water, and work in dusty environment. So, I will shroud the electronics with black piepan foil material. However, I have worn my homemade edc single 18650 belt light for last 6 months in a harsh environment, yet it is far less water proof. Yet probably the driver was better buried inside the light. Still works, but size, comfort, durability, nor driver, can compete with this light.


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## degarb (May 12, 2017)

The black foil looks fine. I was worried it would ruin the appearance. But don't think any outsiders will notice it.


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## degarb (May 12, 2017)

To put it into perspective, it is more waterproof and crushproof than my $300 to $800 smartphone. Both, carried into my extremely wet, dusty, and atomized wet resin filled environment. I do force my groin against heavy objects daily with force over 150 lbs, which is more worrying than the moisture.... I cannot think of a better way for waterproofing this design, that is practical-can you?

I got it from gearbest, $38 expedited shipping. Will check color (remember blue) after epoxy dries. Attaching black foil now.


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## degarb (May 12, 2017)

Were I the Imalent engineer, I would have put the electronics at opposite end from the emitter. Then, a removable rubber boot could have used to double protect the electronics, during carry and rainstorms. 

The problem with engineering, is too much memorization during training. Then, cometh the bean counters during design. And as I see it, professional beta testers are a HUGE problem. By definition, the professional needs to get paid, because they don't use the product in the real world.


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## degarb (May 12, 2017)

Also, testers need a background in invention, else they will be blind to problems. Simply having a math and science background, while a plus, is not enough.


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## degarb (May 12, 2017)

Genzod said:


> degarb,
> 
> Could you do the leakage "blow test" recommended in this thread, and tell us the results? Also, what color is the cap and where did you buy it from?



What does blue end mean again? Did I get the batch after better glued in electronics?


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## Genzod (May 13, 2017)

degarb said:


> What does blue end mean again? Did I get the batch after better glued in electronics?



The blue cap came along with a newer batch. The black cap with the rubber boot USB designation misspelled as "USD" was the original production. That was corrected in later batches, perhaps with attention to other issues they had missed in the first.


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## jorn (May 13, 2017)

mine is spelled usb, and i got flickering issues, and it's far from waterproof..


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## Genzod (May 13, 2017)

jorn said:


> mine is spelled usb, and i got flickering issues, and it's far from waterproof..



I have to say that it is obvious that Imalent has applied attention to issues but it's also clear the battle is far from over with.


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## Genzod (May 13, 2017)

jorn said:


> mine is spelled usb, and i got flickering issues, and it's far from waterproof..



I read in the reddit review that the flickering issues were due to careless anodization at the end of the tube and removing that roughness help alleviate it. The link I believe was supplied earlier in this article, so look that up and maybe you can resolve that.


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## degarb (May 13, 2017)

So, I got the newer. I paid a little more. I have no flicker, even at lowest moonlight. 

I did have one heck of a time getting any tail cap reading. If a true buck, any resistance might drop voltage below a 3.2 or needed 3.3v. My final ma reading was so low, while led was so bright, I don't believe the readings could be accurate. May need head off and clips to measure ma. I keep buying $40mm, perhaps I should pay more. I measured lux over 2 hour runtime using ergonomic length, roughly 1 watt eye balling brightness. Fairly cc, but I suspect I was seeing a 5 to 7 percent drop per hour in lux. I would need to test again, using table vice. 


Another solution for those that fear water, use sugar or cornstarch and silicone caulk to make your own boot for head, mold or cut opening for the lens. . http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/

But trust me the light is more water proof than your average Walmart or home Depot light. 


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/ . Also has interesting instructions on conductive glue and fabric.


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## degarb (May 13, 2017)

Has anyone dissected the battery to verify that it is indeed protected? I can't feel anything under the vinyl. https://m.banggood.com/1pcs-IMALENT...ted-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-p-985739.html


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## Genzod (May 13, 2017)

degarb said:


> So, I got the newer. I paid a little more. I have no flicker, even at lowest moonlight.
> 
> But trust me the light is more water proof than your average Walmart or home Depot light.



I think it would be okay in rain and a quick dunk in the creek where I grabbed it back out quickly. Those are the situations I would be worried about. But I wouldn't put it in a bowl of water and leave it there for two hours while on.

The other issue with flicker is when you get between two points on the digital dimmer. Apparently just moving it off that fine point solves the problem.


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## degarb (May 13, 2017)

Genzod said:


> I think it would be okay in rain and a quick dunk in the creek where I grabbed it back out quickly. Those are the situations I would be worried about. But I wouldn't put it in a bowl of water and leave it there for two hours while on.
> 
> The other issue with flicker is when you get between two points on the digital dimmer. Apparently just moving it off that fine point solves the problem.




Yes, likely existing air pressure would keep water out for a few seconds. I would imagine the USB port would need to be a Qi wireless charge antenna, and the variable ring would need to be magnetic, to be truly water proof. Qi antenna this small might not be possible. Then, there is cost.... On the other hand, I have purposely unwaterproofed many lights adding dimming resistor. That is how important it is to me. 

I have not noticed stepping or flicker, yet. I have noticed if I reverse the head and tail on the tube, she doesn't conduct electricity. Odd, and only makes sense if unannodized surface is so thin that a minor thread difference is enough to lose contact. 

I finally was able to get a brief credible milliamp reading by taking off head and using a kid for assistance. Got 2 to 2.1 amp reading for high, on fully charged cell. Which probably means 2.4 amps for 900 lumen? 6xamc7135 350s equals 2100 ma... A 6x380 ma amc7135 is 2280. My bet is 900 lumen 2100 ma, until heat builds up and thermal protection kicks in. These amc7135 chips can only be pwm, or so I believe. I think I killed mine by changing, lowering the voltage on the ref pin. It was a considerable amount of components to 555 dim the AMC s. Still, interested in how they did it in such a small space, if truly constant current. 

As far as I could tell it has a descent lux at 260 to 300 ma, as measured. I hate to post the tenative numbers here, since a minor bump of head during reassembly, could dramatically change current. I set it to 280, or was it 300 ma, reassembled then measured lux at 1 meter. By definition, double the xpl convoy lux at same current. Measuring, crudely, seemed to confirm a healthy lux, and then some.

Due to compact optic, likely not nearly as throwy as a 26mm. I don't consider it throwy. The only guess that I have, as to meaning of the "artifact" "throw and flood" claim, is that the corona is rather bright, as it is narrow. I have not measured and done the trig calculation, but guess it is only 70 degrees. Please correct me if I am far off. 

All measurements were a struggle and need to be reproduced, with better setup. I did notice at 400 ma, it seemed quite bright. My convoy needs the 800 ma setting to seem as bright. Xpl hi and variable advantage.... Also, the Convoy insists on the OP reflector, which I don't get. The smo does fine, no artifacts. Also, if you loose even 1 percent absorbed into each bounce on the polished aluminum, wrinkle, many photon bounces before escape, does mean more loss--assuming the Polish of OP can even match the Polish of the smo.


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## degarb (May 13, 2017)

I forgot to measure the low milliamperage. My guess, based on past lights: going out on a limb... got to be comfortably below 4 ma., maybe below 2ma. My low is very dim.

It doesn't take much to unscrew tail cap to prevent parasitic drain. It always seemed a practice that would defeat the purpose of o-rings and waterproof claims.


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## degarb (May 13, 2017)

If qi charging is practical on a light this size, let me know. 

I get home tired, daily pull light off belt. I have no desire to top off the cell of an edc. Fiddling with the use port, inserting the male end, with no assistance of the light, is less a pain than using an intellicharger--removal, reassemble, insert cell into charger, close cookie tin, reverse above steps next day. But, qi charging at night would be easier, than a daily USB plug fiddle. Downside for qi is it is slow. But unlike your cellphone, I can remove the 18650 for a faster charge.


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## degarb (May 13, 2017)

I read the Moto 360 smart watch uses a custom qi receiver. So, a flashlight maker might look to what they are doing with tiny qi receivers.


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## degarb (May 13, 2017)

Also, working crews of people using aaa headlamp lights, 1 light per month would dissappear, at least. People would forget they were wearing and drive home, get attached to light, and keep it. Aa rear packs too, but less likely to forget they are wearing. 2s18650 haven't dissappeared at any similar rate- mostly because no one has home charging capability. Now, this standard built in USB port goes back to ubiquitous charging options that we all have. Since consumers in the USA are ignorant of qi, theft of a qi light would be lower. 

Anyway, just been doing side by side with my convoy. It is way brighter at lower current, both, 20 mm lens. This light should be a beast of runtime in the single 18650 class (if ring is used wisely for lowest useful current) , reliability, and availability, due to the USB, size, variable driver, smoother reflector, and choice of the xpl-hi over the xpl.


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## degarb (May 13, 2017)

Genzod said:


> The blue cap came along with a newer batch. The black cap with the rubber boot USB designation misspelled as "USD" was the original production. That was corrected in later batches, perhaps with attention to other issues they had missed in the first.



Is bang good selling the first "usd" batch? 

Probably, would buy several more, (if glued in properly) at $30 level. Maybe, 3 or 4.


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## degarb (May 13, 2017)

On a side note, this isn't my first single 18650,infinitely variable headlamp. 

There is my http://m.gearbest.com/headlights/pp_251155.html which ramps infinitely, uses a tir for throw, xpg. However, the aluminum Composite is heavy like steel, optic is inferior, larger head, poor runtime using it. The electronic variability is inferior to a mechanical ring as it constantly forgets setting, especially after lockout. I strapped it to my sweeper, taking my Boruit RJ - 02 R5 out of regular use. But, at the price, not a bad light.


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## Genzod (May 13, 2017)

degarb said:


> It doesn't take much to unscrew tail cap to prevent parasitic drain. It always seemed a practice that would defeat the purpose of o-rings and waterproof claims.



I'm glad someone else was wondering about that beside's me.


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## Genzod (May 13, 2017)

degarb said:


> Is bang good selling the first "usd" batch?
> 
> Probably, would buy several more, (if glued in properly) at $30 level. Maybe, 3 or 4.



Can't remember which, Gear Best or Banggood was selling black and blue tailcaps at random--you can't choose. Says so right on the product page. I wonder why?:thinking:


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## Genzod (May 13, 2017)

degarb said:


> On a side note, this isn't my first single 18650,infinitely variable headlamp.
> 
> There is my http://m.gearbest.com/headlights/pp_251155.html which ramps infinitely, uses a tir for throw, xpg. However, the aluminum Composite is heavy like steel, optic is inferior, larger head, poor runtime using it. The electronic variability is inferior to a mechanical ring as it constantly forgets setting, especially after lockout. I strapped it to my sweeper, taking my Boruit RJ - 02 R5 out of regular use. But, at the price, not a bad light.



62,000 cd. oo: Bet you could slice butter with that beam!

Luminous Flux: 300Lm 
Color Temperature: 5500K 
Switch Type: Clicky 
Battery Type: 18650  
Waterproof: IP-65 Standard Waterproof 
Working Time: 4h (max) 
Lens: Plastic Convex Lens 
:hahaha:Beam Distance: 400-500m 
Body Material: Aluminium Alloy


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## degarb (May 13, 2017)

Genzod said:


> 62,000 cd. oo: Bet you could slice butter with that beam!
> 
> Luminous Flux: 300Lm
> Color Temperature: 5500K
> ...



They claim 62k cd? I don't recall the boruit as anything special. Bright enough when running full blast on new cells, but dims as cells drain. On high, runtime isn't great. 

300 to 400 meters does seem high. I never was excited about it enough to measure its lux. I think the tir does unscrew, so did verify it was an xpg. Not a fan of bulky, heavy lights, tir, the non cc electronics. I also think the xpl hi beats the xpg2, xpg3, and especially, the xpg1. I am willing to pay extra for the xpl hi, especially in a v5 neutral. BTW, The xpl2hi should be out by now. Higher cri or efficiency....


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## degarb (May 13, 2017)

I did purposely use the HR20 tonight in an unforecast heavy downpour, for about 10 minutes, as I emergency tarped things outside. 

I did epoxy black foil as described earlier. I cannot imagine the designer didn't do similar test. On my next HR20 I will make a Oogru boot, with a hole for lens and, perhaps, a flap for ring operation.


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## degarb (May 14, 2017)

Also, based on 2600 battery, 360 max claimed hours, means 7.22 ma on low. I guess that isn't moonlight. I used to put 2 Aa cells in the 3 Aa lights to get these kind of lows for the child lights. Kids always fall asleep with lights on, so 100s of hours are needed, not scores.


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## degarb (May 14, 2017)

The HR20 uses a copper star! 

This guy does an excellent review, https://youtu.be/2_Blt-p-uyk
Video.


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## jorn (May 14, 2017)

it uses 1/3 of a copper star. 1/3 of the top and 1/3 of the bottom is cut off to make room for all the wires inside it.


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## degarb (May 14, 2017)

jorn said:


> it uses 1/3 of a copper star. 1/3 of the top and 1/3 of the bottom is cut off to make room for all the wires inside it.



Well, to be expected: this is the first light that has good edc size, lux per watt for inspection, and runtime full workday or weeks between charge when used sporadically. And safe USB charging. 

Did you find a video with the teardown? Or, did you see the insides? I ask, because I am interested in the driver. 


Enough heat transfer to head that it can inflict pain if touched to sensitive skin, on high. However, I regard high modes as more a liability than asset. The high modes create more issues than solve.


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## maniac78 (May 14, 2017)

HR20 XP-L is really good headlamp. I use this model since 5 years and is working without any problems. I need one more, someone can recommend something?


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## jorn (May 14, 2017)

Opened it up myself. Just unscrew the bezel and the lense and refector falls out. Easy to do a led swap in this one, but i dont think its worth my effort. Tint is ok for work anyway. If i had used it outdoors for fishing camping ect. I would have swapped the led out for one with warmer tint.


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## degarb (May 14, 2017)

maniac78 said:


> HR20 XP-L is really good headlamp. I use this model since 5 years and is working without any problems. I need one more, someone can recommend something?



Hmm. I am new to imalent. This variable ring, USB port, design has been around 5 years? If so, would you not mean xml? 

If so, how wet did you get it?


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## Genzod (May 15, 2017)

degarb said:


> They claim 62k cd?



To claim 500m throw is to claim 62,000 cd. I = (R^2)/4 = (500^2)/4= 62,500 cd. Clearly though, it's a typo. 50m is closer to the truth.


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## jorn (May 15, 2017)

They claim 200 meter throw. Hotspot is intense, so i dont doubt 0,25 lux at 200 meters.


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## Genzod (May 15, 2017)

jorn said:


> They claim 200 meter throw. Hotspot is intense, so i dont doubt 0,25 lux at 200 meters.



He mentioned a different flashlight than the Imalent. I went to look at it and saw the range spec as 400-500m and had a good chuckle.


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## degarb (May 28, 2017)

Got the banggood hr20 neutral 2 days ago. Shipping was fast (blue end cap) . I am unsure, but suspect, a bad battery : came at 2.5 volt and can't get it over 3.7 volt, in two days, including hours on the Intellicharger. Also, clicking 'on', sometimes takes 2 tries. And, 'ring dialing' often turns off light. Will try a Panasonic tonight in it. 


The temperature is 4300 kelvin in this one, while 6500k in the first one from gear best. 

Now, light makers, I say unto you: 6500 kelvin isn't cool white, it is blue white!! 5700k is cool white. 4500 k to 5500 k is neutral. 4000k is yellow, as is 4300k. Lights should be sold from 4000k to 5700k, maybe down to 3800k, and up to 5800k. Throw all the others away-- the yellows and the blues! 

Dogma aside, The 6500k is actually ok--renders colors ok! However, blue scatter is tiny bit over powering. The blue should be polished down to the outdoor white of at least 5800 k. The 4300k (and I have made a few lights, using same led tint and warmer) does have a yellow appearance. Indoors, the cool hr20 looks way brighter; outdoors, the 6500k offers much better peripheral vision. Indoors, yellow and red are way more vivid with 4300k, but blues and purples are better for the 6500k. Green shirt is a tie: The yellow in the green shirt, better in the 4300k, the blue component in the green, better in the other light. (After matching a few thousand paint colors, you see the component colors, not composite colors. ) Outside the cool, honestly, does grass just fine, maybe a bluish bias. While the warm has yellow bias in the grass. In daylight there is much yellow in the grass around my neighborhood..... Now, onto tree bark. An amateur would exclaim there is no, zero, nada, comparison with brown!!!! The 4300 kelvin kicks the aspen out of the 6500k light, on wood!! Indeed mixing, making my own brown paint, I was amazed 25 years ago, how much red goes into brown. Also, the dead brown grass at root base of green grass, is rendered way better. Shining into woody forest canopy, the warmer light actually looked brighter than the cool, as more brown was reflected back to the eye. .... Now, on closer bark inspection for the pine trees that looked grey with cool 6500k and brown under 4300k, the mold, dirt, and underlining bark color is indeed grey. So, the cool light did have a right to emphasize this hue. While the 4300 k emphasis was on the warm hue. 

Preference for me is the yellowish 4300 k hr20, since 4000k to 5800kelvin is my preferred temperature range-6500k is above my tolerance. Really, 4500 to 5500k. Though, I am old enough to be brain washed for 10s of thousands of hours under 2700 Kelvin incan light, lest i forget my struggle to escape the life sucking winter lighting of my youth..... I swapped my 50 watt cob 6500 kelvin wake up light for a 4000 kelvin emitter. What a huge difference: the 6500 was way, way better at waking me up! So, 6500 k, does have some use. I suspect better peripheral vision and distant focus, is the other benefit of 6500kelvin.


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## degarb (May 28, 2017)

Genzod said:


> To claim 500m throw is to claim 62,000 cd. I = (R^2)/4 = (500^2)/4= 62,500 cd. Clearly though, it's a typo. 50m is closer to the truth.



First, I wish to scrap book this post to pull out 3 years from now. Likely, not a thread tool. 

Secondly, doing the math what percentage, roughly, of lights have accurate throw v. Candela claims, off shelf and webstore lights? 

I am over buying poorly driven worklights, preferring to make my own, so can no longer do the math for practice. The Imalent hr20, may be the last light i buy for a long time, unless a better, higher energy, battery is released. Though i may buy a cheap astrolux nichia for a toy.


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## Genzod (May 28, 2017)

degarb said:


> First, I wish to scrap book this post to pull out 3 years from now. Likely, not a thread tool.



I'm not sure what you mean exactly when you say _"likely, not a thread tool"_ or how that applies to the mentioning of a hilarious typo?

Edit: Oh, I get it, the option to archive or bookmark this thread for later viewing. Curious though, why would you want to archive it?


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## degarb (May 28, 2017)

Two other notes on this light. 

The ring holding lens end was loose on the banggood version, so I hand screwed tightened it in. Is there a tool for ring? I dont see any divit, like in covoy pill. (Ground down pliers...) 

I dropped in a fresh Panasonic 3400, and it seems brighter than ever. Doesn't seem right for a true cc light. I haven't got around to full 8 hour lux test to see how cc this light really is. But am suspicious. I did measure a 14% drop over 2 hours, at a roughly 300 ma setting. 


I am now noticing a slightly larger hotspot on the warm. I don't see reflector sitting differently. Not sure why this is. I want to tighten the lens retaining ring to be sure of seal. But presently, can only finger tighten. 


On a side note. If I took it fishing, I would just bring hi viz duct tape, and tape over electronics end. Tested, and passes blow test. Used the hr20, unmodified, in rain, twice. But fishing is where you risk a dip.... I did cast one end cap from silicone caulk and cornstarch. I failed to make
It long enough, so, it fell off and got lost after a day. Also, will try amazing goop or 100 percent polyurethane caulk next time for tear resistance. I used packing tape as the non-stick surface, during the cast.


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## degarb (May 28, 2017)

Edit: Oh, I get it, the option to archive or bookmark this thread for later viewing. Curious though, why would you want to archive it?[/QUOTE]

Every few months there is such an educational or inspiring post. Unfortunately, often complicated or not immediately relevant. Sometimes, just an incredible articulation.... Thus, scrapbook or archive. 

Hopefully, i will remember r^2 over 4, two years from now when making a buying choice. But i have a keen enough memory to know my limitations. 

I go by rule of 3. Tell me once, i remember 3 minutes, remind me in 3 minutes and i remember 3 hours. Remind me in 3 hours and i am good for 3 days. Remind me in 3 days for 3 weeks. Remind me in 3 weeks and i am good for 3 months. Remind me in 3 months and i am good for 3 years. Remind me in 3 years, i am good for 30 years. Remind me in 30 years, ask me again in 300.... Other people are like this. Emotional event need not this pattern.


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## Genzod (May 28, 2017)

degarb said:


> Every few months there is such an educational or inspiring post. Unfortunately, often complicated or not immediately relevant. Sometimes, just an incredible articulation.... Thus, scrapbook or archive.
> 
> Hopefully, i will remember r^2 over 4, two years from now when making a buying choice. But i have a keen enough memory to know my limitations.
> 
> I go by rule of 3. Tell me once, i remember 3 minutes, remind me in 3 minutes and i remember 3 hours. Remind me in 3 hours and i am good for 3 days. Remind me in 3 days for 3 weeks. Remind me in 3 weeks and i am good for 3 months. Remind me in 3 months and i am good for 3 years. Remind me in 3 years, i am good for 30 years. Remind me in 30 years, ask me again in 300.... Other people are like this. Emotional event need not this pattern.



Okay, you value the intensity/throw formula.

I find that when needing to memorize something, use the deep delta sleep memory grafting ability to your advantage. Work with the equation I= R*R/4 with a few headlamp specs from manufacturers, go to sleep, graft it. Work the next day again, sleep and graft it. 

Or, you could associate the memory with an emotionally evoking event, like the absurdity of an $8 headlamp having a 500m/62500cd throw/intensity.

62,500cd is intensity in candella (lumens/steradian) at 1 meter (at that point it's 62,500 lm/sr _and_ lux lm/m^2 since there, 1sr=1 m^2). At 500 meters, that intensity would drop to moonlight or 0.25 lux which is pretty much the standard manufacturers are referring to when they state a range.

You have a lux meter, so you can measure center spot lux at 4 meters, and use the equation to bring it to 1 meter to get the candella intensity and see if it matches manufacturer's claims (multiply measured lux @4m by 4^2=16). Then you can move that cd value to 0.25 lux and determine the theoretical range (ignores atmospheric effects) R=sqroot(4*I@1m) 

If you have the new ZL H53c or plan to get the new H53w, I would love to learn the lux at 4m. That would give me the theoretical range to 0.25 lux.


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## degarb (Jun 1, 2017)

I think the charge Circuit not working on the second banggood hr20. Can't get green led overnight,charging a fresh Panasonic 3400. 400 or 500 ma charge rate? Over 9 hours, no green. The gearbest hr20 charges fine,as expected.

I wonder if I can unscrew head and measure charge voltage. Or if protection on charger would prohibit. Will try later when have a chance.


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## Genzod (Jun 1, 2017)

degarb said:


> I think the charge Circuit not working on the second banggood hr20. Can't get green led overnight,charging a fresh Panasonic 3400. 400 or 500 ma charge rate? Over 9 hours, no green. The gearbest hr20 charges fine,as expected.
> 
> I wonder if I can unscrew head and measure charge voltage. Or if protection on charger would prohibit. Will try later when have a chance.



With LED flashlights in general, you have the "tint lottery", with Imalent you have the "reliability lottery". I wonder how much it will cost you to mail a $35 headlamp back to China to replace it under warranty? :thinking:


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## degarb (Jun 3, 2017)

Genzod said:


> With LED flashlights in general, you have the "tint lottery", with Imalent you have the "reliability lottery". I wonder how much it will cost you to mail a $35 headlamp back to China to replace it under warranty? :thinking:



I think it may be charging, but at a far slower rate than it should. Putting a multimeter in volt mode on head (tube removed) both jumped around. But the second seemed to be lower. Though in practice, taking days to recharge for a day's few minutes, just isn't going to work. New Imalent battery and new Panasonic cell.

As far as warrantee, who knows what banggood would do.


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## Genzod (Jun 3, 2017)

degarb said:


> As far as warrantee, who knows what banggood would do.



I mean, with the cost to ship it to China, I imagine it just wouldn't be worth sending it in for warranty.


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## degarb (Jun 3, 2017)

As far as tint lottery goes, Cree is on sic 2, at least. This xpl hi tint looks identical to one on Star I bought last year.


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## degarb (Jun 11, 2017)

Sadly, The HR20 is not constant current, constant output. I am also concluding the optic needs to be doubly disciplined to function as an emergency worklight with ample lux for 8 hours.

I chose a setting that looked to me to be 1 watt. 44 inches 2050 lux to start.


TimeHourLux11:470205012:4000:53180013:0001:13172013:2501:38167015:1303:26148017:3305:46116018:1606:29240


I am not sure how this can be called constant current. Crashed at 6 hr. Maybe I could have dragged another 1.5 hours out of substandard light with a panasonic 3400. 

This is second test. The first only went 2 hour, but I saw a drop there too. For science, I may try again with the warm version. But will need a full day with projects going on at the house, like today...Also, I did duct tape ring down to avoid any accidental ring movement....

I am also wondering how well the amc7135 does in these tests at 1 watt. I mostly use buck drivers and high voltage arrangement: buckpuck, fenix tk35/hp11--both have near zero lux drop in 7 or 8 hours. I have noticed drop in convoy and another brand. Though a home built test of a naked amc7135 in December, using a pwm dimmer and 555 circuit, I recall doing very well on the constant lux test over 8 hour range.

I would post the graph, however, the x axis is only plotting samples, not time. I have not now the knowledge to convert the time into the x axis. (Libre office)

I wonder is some other reflector or lossless tir could be epoxied in place to seriously increase the throw and allow less drain while working. (What tool can be employed in the ring unscrew to free the glass?) This is the throwiest light in its class, but the 20 mm still falls far short of the discipline of a 35 mm smo xml headlamp.


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## Genzod (Jun 17, 2017)

oops already answered this question


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## degarb (Jul 2, 2017)

I owe it to Banggood to report they fixed the problem I had with their Imalent. I would not hesitate buying from them.

They are concerned for their reputation. Being a company not in control of all factors on the planet that may affect their customers, they seem to do what they can. 

I am trying to leave positive feedback on the panda score for them, but getting lost in the Javascript. No luck yet.


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## elcidroyale (Aug 1, 2017)

degarb said:


> I owe it to Banggood to report they fixed the problem I had with their Imalent. I would not hesitate buying from them.
> 
> They are concerned for their reputation. Being a company not in control of all factors on the planet that may affect their customers, they seem to do what they can.
> 
> I am trying to leave positive feedback on the panda score for them, but getting lost in the Javascript. No luck yet.


Anyone else can confirm the issues have been resolved? Not sure where to buy this from as who knows which version they're selling. I'd like the most up to date "fixed" version. Don't want the hassle of shipping back and forth to China.


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## degarb (Aug 1, 2017)

I got lucky with gearbest, and banggood made it right. I wouldn't hesitate ordering again from them. Probably stay away from ebay or Amazon with this one.


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## elcidroyale (Aug 2, 2017)

degarb said:


> I got lucky with gearbest, and banggood made it right. I wouldn't hesitate ordering again from them. Probably stay away from ebay or Amazon with this one.


Thanks!


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## degarb (Aug 20, 2017)

I cleaned up my threads with sandpaper. Still having to hand tighten tube every day to stop flicker caused by electrical contact. Variable resitor endemically may cause flicker, since it is just a brush touching a metal ring with wedge of varying resistance. Using these, playing with dial, fixes the innate flicker. Apart from threads, I don't think the temporary flicker is a manufacturing flaw, just a feature,state of the art. Probably a real buck, since based on my lux/runtime test, it ain't cc, but clearly regulated. Then i never been impressed with the cc of amc7135,which is linear. But this is less cc, even. 

I need cc for extreme detail inspection at work. Don't need cc for home and recreation. I am using these hr20 for home, recreation, and backup (forgetting to bring my home built 700ma to xpl v6 nw in a 35mm via buckpuck off 2p18650 balanced in rear. What bothers me the most about this light is the wasteful 20 mm smo. With a 26 mm and xplhi, i can work and inspect just as well at a fraction of the current. Hotspots don't need to exceed 12 degrees, 15 in theory, based on cone distribution. More, wasted precious runtime. 

Maybe someday someone will redo this light with a true cc and 555 timer, and allow a 24 or 26 mm smo with ar glass to inter change the 20 mm smo. Yeah if i only camped or read with the light i would make or buy a red or clear diffuser. 

I probably will never again buy a manufactured light simply because that target of 10 hours, workday, at 1k lux minimum at 2 meters, seems so hard for people to grasp. At least, ramping light levels, infinitely variable will allow me to find the correct level without idiotic 10,30,100 defaults that simply are usually too dim or too short runtime. Only the hp11 ever stumbled on a correct lux and runtime level of 4 k candela for 9 hours cc. And it came with a diffuser,which protected lens during transport. Old tech, but still using the lights, despite my 300 lumen 5400 candela 9.5 hour builds, simply because as long as most eye cones are covered with hotspot at 1000 reflected lux, this is what is important for task lighting. Reading, navigation, jogging, camping, folding clothes, flood is the ticket. Just don't like the drive level, nor led bin, choices of the hp25 from fenix.


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## Mattole (Aug 24, 2017)

I recently bought two of these headlamps. First one was the "Neutral White" version and the tint was way too yellow-orangish - it was quite dramatic. I returned that one for the Cool White version and the tint is fine as far as I'm concerned. This is by no means a perfect headlamp but it seems to be the best in its class in terms of a small form factor rechargeable headlamp with useful spill and pretty good throw. I also just purchased a Fenix HP30R for more heavy duty search and rescue type stuff but for everyday around the ranch work, this Imalent HR20 is pretty good...


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## elcidroyale (Oct 7, 2017)

Mattole said:


> I recently bought two of these headlamps. First one was the "Neutral White" version and the tint was way too yellow-orangish - it was quite dramatic. I returned that one for the Cool White version and the tint is fine as far as I'm concerned. This is by no means a perfect headlamp but it seems to be the best in its class in terms of a small form factor rechargeable headlamp with useful spill and pretty good throw. I also just purchased a Fenix HP30R for more heavy duty search and rescue type stuff but for everyday around the ranch work, this Imalent HR20 is pretty good...


I agree too yellow for neutral white. Is the cool white closer to true neutral or actual cool white?


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## degarb (Oct 8, 2017)

elcidroyale said:


> I agree too yellow for neutral white. Is the cool white closer to true neutral or actual cool white?




My cool white is not bad at all. Not blue or purple. Reds look fine (unlike older leds, 2012 and before), until done head to head with the 219 and the xpl 4300K. Very good at baby blue. I like the cool because it wakes me up (cool works way better than 4000k), using it to load and get out door in morning, and seems noticeably more efficient than the warm (stays brighter longer). The tint beats my xml u2 on older lights.

The 4300K seems much more noticeably efficient than my Nichia 219 (ajax?). Probably because the xpl has double the surface brightness, but in the 20 mm smo, still over 15 deg on center hotspot which covers all the eye cone sharp vision. Both the xpl 4300 and the 219 butcher baby blue, but the nichia does much better. (All my upstairs are different shades of babe blue, as well as back door, while my down stairs is reds, purples, yellows and greens). Deep red is rendered much better by the Nichia. But outside, looking at trees and bark, the HR20 4300K wins hands down at any distance greater than 6 foot/2 meters, since color perception is CRI + GAI + Luminance (per studies, confirmed by my thousands of jobsite tests over last 27 years by me). Though truth be told that looking at tree bark outside, there is underlying grey dirt and mold that is rendered better by the cool, at the expense of the brown and red.


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## kingjohn (Feb 3, 2018)

Does this light have a low voltage protection?
I need to know if it will kill my unprotected cells...


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