# Shop Nerd tricks, tips and tools



## McGizmo

Hi guys,

I remember when I first proposed this forum to Sasha and the admin that I thought it would be a nice place to keep the 3M's of its scope apart from the modding forum itself and a place for those working with machining and materials to share ideas and information. The forum has really taken off and there are so many CPF members who have been introduced to the subject and gotten into the smell of cutting fluid as well as so many new members coming on board who are expert in these fields that it certainly has become a great place!! :bow: :thumbsup:

This forum is about DIY but at levels of complexity and specialties that go well beyond the scope of the local hardware and tool store.

In the shop, we often need a tool or material handling system that is not readily available or something we know about. With our own ingenuity and needs coupled with what is on hand, we find solutions.

I think it might be cool and useful if we can share some of these solutions and ideas with each other.

I'll start with a few ideas I have come up with that have served me well and some may have merit for some of you.

I find that organization is always a requirement and temporary storage of some of the components, especially if you are working with multiples, can be a challenge in itself. I have identified two storage trays that have served me quite well and they stack nicely. One is the plastic lid from the Costco plastic jars of nuts. The other is the rectangular sushi trays that the sushi at the grocery comes in. Of course the commercial size egg crates are a must but I don't know where you can get them. I have a whole bunch of them because I used to get brass parts from a shop in NY and they used them exclusively for packing the parts in shipment.

Since I assemble my own light engines and I need lead wires for input as well as output from the converters, I need a bunch of lead wires all cut to similar length. This can be tedious when you want to have a hundred or two of one color on hand. I found that I could put my lathe on its slowest RPM and wind the wire on a rod or tube of appropriate diameter. While the wire is still wrapped and wound tight on the bar (Think of the thread on a fishing rod), I take a strip of tape down the length of the bar that holds the tape in place. I take a sharp razor and cut a line along the z axis through the tape and wire. This leaves me with a whole bunch of "C" shaped sections of wire all the same length and ready to serve as lead wires.

A lot of my bench tools have vacuum inputs and if I am going to do any extensive cutting or sanding/ grinding, I am willing to take the time to hook up the vacuum to the tool. I find myself at times using the flexible shaft or a hand file a lot and the dust from them is also something nice to catch from the get go. One of my vacuum attachments has a taper to a reduced and rectangular input. The kind for sucking out of cracks and such. I drilled a hole through it, perpendicular to the air flow so that I could put a #10 screw through it. On the edge of my work bench close to where I sit at it, I drilled a hole into the wood and I can mount the vacuum nozzle to the edge of the bench. I have a formed piece of screen that can slip over the front and serve as a grate in case the parts I am working on are tiny and could pass through the vacuum. (how many unwanted items have you sucked away in your vacuum! )

A final entry here is on dental tools. If you don't have a set of dental pics and chisels and other things that they use (heaven knows what for) you are missing out on some cool stuff!! Same goes for the jewelery trade.

So what shop tricks, tips and tools have you happened upon?


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## cmacclel

Where are the pics 


Mac


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## McGizmo

cmacclel said:


> Where are the pics
> 
> 
> Mac



In your mind's eye, hopefully! :nana:


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## precisionworks

Great idea, Don:thumbsup: Perhaps the moderators will sticky this, as it should be a really useful thread.

One thing I've found is that it pays to take the time to make a dedicated fixture for parts that are often run. This might apply to boring aluminum soft jaws that fit a specific Surefire head, or some other unique part. I make soft jaws for the mill vise from aluminum if the part runs often, or from hard maple if the part runs infrequently. These are made by drilling out first with a hole saw, followed by boring with the boring head. Split the block on the table saw & they're ready to use.

For really odd parts, especially one offs, V-blocks are worth their weight in gold. The photos below show a wing strut from a McLaren CanAm race car. The owner said he had the car insured for $1.5M, so this was a job where no mistake could be made


*Initial set up using large V-blocks, small V-blocks, step clamps & spacers*







*View of the bore after first roughing pass*






*Getting close to final ID (note cold air blower tip on left)*






*Erickson Tenthset head, so you can easily dial in almost nothing (.00005")*






*Blake Co-Ax indicator, which doesn't see lots of use but was nice for this job. A conventional dial test indicator would have worked, just more slowly.*






Not the hardest job in the world, as long as the right tools are available.


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## darkzero

I couldn't agree more on the dental picks. I have a case full of them but there are three specific ones I can't live without. 

"One can never have too many tools" & I agree with this saying. I've got tools that I've never even used yet or have only used once. Being a former auto "mechanic" I ended up with a nice set of tools that should last me a lifetime. Was expensive buying from the tool trucks but in the end well worth. Most of them don't apply to flashlight modding though of course. Being here has made me purchase a lot more tools that I would probably never use again if I left here.

Here's one tool that I've been using ever since I joined here, one of my most used & favorite tool:






Maybe I'll post some more later.


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## Dan FO

I have 12 different shapes and sizes of hemostats and use them all the time for assorted tasks.


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## McGizmo

Darkzero,
That engravers vise reminds me of the gravers block vise that I have. I haven't used it much lately but what a great work holder! Daily I use my third hand:






I have also found great utility in silicone kitchen tools and teflon tools as they are impervious to heat in soldering and heated up components.

I can't tell you how useful the plastic stir sticks that come with the Arctic Epoxy kits are or for that matter, a good round, ball headed tooth pick!!


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## Anglepoise

My most valued lathe tool is a 5" Kitigawa 3 jaw scroll chuck.
It is accurate through it's range of adjustment and I want to keep it that way.
To stop chips, dirt etc from getting into the exposed jaws and scroll, I keep a piece of round foam as a bung in the chuck through hole. Flush with the face of the chuck, it expands and contracts automatically as the jaws adjust and does not interfere with most clamping situations. Easily removed for boring.


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## DaFABRICATA

Heres my simple little set-up.

The jewelers vise' really make things a lot easier to work with.
The loc-line also helps out at times.
I'll be making a nicer stand this summer.


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## precisionworks

Sometimes, a special size twist drill is needed to adjust the thread percentage of a tap. Thread forming taps always use slightly larger holes than thread cutting taps. The photos show a slightly over sized drill bit being reduce to the needed size.


*Twist drill held in 5C collet in spin index*






*It takes two or three light passes to hit final diameter. I check with a Mitu electronic mic that reads to .00001", so it isn't hard to sneak up on the final diameter.*


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## darkzero

Don, I really like those magnectic bases you have there. They look like the expensive ones? Are those made to use with lathes or whatever? I've got a cheap HF one to hold a dial guage that I used when assembling engines. I guess I can use if for the lathe now.




DaFABRICATA said:


> The jewelers vise' really make things a lot easier to work with.


 

I forgot about that handle! I never used it though, wonder where mine is? Doesn't matter I can't use it anymore. I had the the square machined off on mine. I like it so much better without it. I find it more useful being able to lat flat on my bench & I highly recommend it.


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## G1K

I'm not sure what kind of bases Don has, but Noga manufactures probably the best base I've used, it blows the HF unit out of the water, but it's priced accordingly.

**Edit, looks like Don's bases may be made by Noga
R


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## wquiles

darkzero said:


> I like it so much better without it. I find it more useful being able to lat flat on my bench & I highly recommend it.
> [/IMG]










I just ordered one of those peg vises tonight - I have needed one of those for SO LONG now 

Will


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## Illum

darkzero said:


>



Where can I buy one of these little vices, looks good for holding PCBs for soldering
Better not to spoil this sticky, info via PM :thanks:


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## mdocod

Harbor freight sells some great yellow and grey colored multi-bin organizers. I have 5 or 6 of them last I checked to organize all the screws and nuts and copper pieces I need on hand for both production and prototyping. They sell 2 versions, one with a few large deep bins, the other with many smaller shallower bins, but they are both built surprisingly well. IIRC the smaller shallower one costs around $8, but they are well worth it. I forecast a few more of them in my near future as I have filled all of the bins and am desperately scrounging for more storage solutions.

This one is probably pretty obvious to many of you but is new to me and I am really liking them so far:
US made [read quality] screw machine length drill bits: If you don't need deep holes in something, these "stub" length drill bits run far more true than jobber length drills, especially in the smaller sizes. I was really frustrated with my jobber length chinese #30 and smaller drills as they always ran with a wobble at the end of em. The shorter length of the screw machine bits also cuts down on the need for as much clearance between the tool head and part for swapping tooling.

Something I am planning on doing but haven't done yet: Set up an old computer in the garage with internet access. This would allow me to go straight from working on something and being reminded I need to order something, to being able to add it to a wish-list or shopping cart somewhere. Also, one could confine their drill/tap charts to the computer if desired. Access to online triangle calculators and other java based math/trig tools is potentially more convenient than doing it by hand.


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## McGizmo

Will,
Yes, the magnetic bases are Noga. I am quite fond of the Noga arms and the bases seem to be the standard copied by many as well. Below is an old pic of a Noga arm that mounted directly to an Olympus stereo mic I had:


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## LLCoolBeans

www.littlemachineshop.com carries the Chinese versions of those magnetic bases. They are worth their weight in gold. I'm sure your Noga bases are better, but I have had NO issue with the copies. They work very well, I'm planning on ordering some more.

regular...
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2880&category=

and mini...
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2029&category=

EDIT: I should mention that I have not tried the regular size, I have the mini. I assume the regular size to be of the same quality, but you never know.


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## Anglepoise

Where Noga excels is in the articulated arms. These are 'the best' and lock ( and stay ) in any position with a gentle twist of the knob.
Made in Israel and on Ebay around $50 new.


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## darkzero

Illum said:


> Where can I buy one of these little vices, looks good for holding PCBs for soldering
> Better not to spoil this sticky, info via PM :thanks:


 
I purchased mine from Micro Mark back in 2003. I paid like $30. It's called the Universal Vise. They now have Chinese versions of them that can be bought for $15 or less. NitroZ recently posted on where you could purchase the cheaper versions. McMaster also sells them but at the higher price so I assume theirs are the made in India ones as well like the one I have. You can also find them on ebay if you search for jewler's vise.





McGizmo said:


> Will,
> Yes, the magnetic bases are Noga. I am quite fond of the Noga arms and the bases seem to be the standard copied by many as well. Below is an old pic of a Noga arm that mounted directly to an Olympus stereo mic I had:


 
Very nice. Thanks for the info Don. Looks like I will have to get me some Nogas too. Your bench reminds me of pics that I've seen of PKs office. Stuff everywhere yet I bet you still know where everything is located when needed. Hope my bench gets like that someday! Hmm or perhaps maybe that might be something to look foward too? :candle:

I do my builds in my room which has become my workshop. So much stuff piled up that I don't even sleep in my own bed anymore. Hmm, wonder what it feels like to sleep in my own bed? :laughing:


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## LLCoolBeans

Anglepoise said:


> Where Noga excels is in the articulated arms. These are 'the best' and lock ( and stay ) in any position with a gentle twist of the knob.
> Made in Israel and on Ebay around $50 new.



The Chinese ones have the same articulating arms, that's what makes them so great. Loosen one screw position in any position imaginable, then re-tighten the screw to lock in place. You mention a "gentle twist" with the real Noga version. That may be where the main difference lies and where the Noga excels. The Chinese copy requires some moderate force to lock down, definitely more than a gentle twist, but it's still very useful.

I'll have to find a Noga for myself just to try one out.


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## precisionworks

> Where Noga excels is in the articulated arms. These are 'the best' and lock ( and stay ) in any position with a gentle twist of the knob. Made in Israel and on Ebay around $50 new.


+1

The wonderful thing about Noga arms is that it requires a high degree of precision to manufacture the sliding wedge lock mechanism ... and the Chinese (as yet) don't have this perfected. The bad part of owning a Noga base is that every other machinist in the shop wants to borrow yours

When you need a super rigid holder for a .0005" dial test indicator, nothing beats the Noga. Even at full extension. The clamp will hold both a plunger indicator as well as the dovetail on a dial test indicator.


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## LLCoolBeans

Anglepoise said:


> My most valued lathe tool is a 5" Kitigawa 3 jaw scroll chuck.
> It is accurate through it's range of adjustment and I want to keep it that way.
> To stop chips, dirt etc from getting into the exposed jaws and scroll, I keep a piece of round foam as a bung in the chuck through hole. Flush with the face of the chuck, it expands and contracts automatically as the jaws adjust and does not interfere with most clamping situations. Easily removed for boring.



So, you don't want to show us your bung?


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## PEU

LLCoolBeans said:


> That may be where the main difference lies and where the Noga excels. The Chinese copy requires some moderate force to lock down, definitely more than a gentle twist, but it's still very useful.



True, I have a copy and the other day I saw a real noga in action, you notice the difference exactly there, in the locking mechanism...


Pablo


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## Anglepoise

LLCoolBeans said:


> So, you don't want to show us your bung?



Well OK....if you insist, see #8 ^^^^^^^.


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## 65535

Can anyone post a pick of the bottom of a jewelers pin vice with the handle remove but nothing else chopped off?

I'm thinking a small milling vice and a pin vice would be great for small parts work, the milling vice for larger parts and as an extra sturdy base for the pin vise, assuming the pin vice has a square nub on the bottom that could be clamped.

Either way I think a mill vice is an excellent tool for holding parts, or especially lining them up.


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## darkzero

65535 said:


> Can anyone post a pick of the bottom of a jewelers pin vice with the handle remove but nothing else chopped off?
> 
> I'm thinking a small milling vice and a pin vice would be great for small parts work, the milling vice for larger parts and as an extra sturdy base for the pin vise, assuming the pin vice has a square nub on the bottom that could be clamped.
> 
> Either way I think a mill vice is an excellent tool for holding parts, or especially lining them up.



I don't have a pic but the pin vise I have did have a pretty large square on the bottom with a threaded hole in it for the handle. That's exactly what it was designed for, to be securely clamped in a larger vise.


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## 65535

darkzero said:


> I don't have a pic but the pin vise I have did have a pretty large square on the bottom with a threaded hole in it for the handle. That's exactly what it was designed for, to be securely clamped in a larger vise.




Common sense for the win.


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## darkzero

Ever since the thread about people's shops & this one, I've been admiring people's workspaces. I love tools & equipment even when I don't even know what the heck I'm seeing, like all the awsome pics Barry share's with us. I hope to have a nice workspace one day.

Right now my computer desk has turned into my workspace. I've been getting by but I'm running out of room. Wish I had a workbench large enough to keep all my necessities on hand. I'm sure things will just get messier when I do get one though.

Here's some of my tools that get used daily.












EDIT: I was going to post some of my favorite type of tools & what I use them for but my post got lost. I'm too tired to type it all again.


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## wquiles

darkzero said:


> Ever since the thread about people's shops & this one, I've been admiring people's workspaces. I love tools & equipment even when I don't even know what the heck I'm seeing, like all the awsome pics Barry share's with us. I hope to have a nice workspace one day.
> 
> Right now my computer desk has turned into my workspace. I've been getting by but I'm running out of room. Wish I had a workbench large enough to keep all my necessities on hand. I'm sure things will just get messier when I do get one though.
> 
> Here's some of my tools that get used daily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I was going to post some of my favorite type of tools & what I use them for but my post got lost. I'm too tired to type it all again.



Well, Will, I am disappointed. Big time. In that second photo, behind the soldering stations and the Fluke meter there is still some available table space that still is not covered with flashlights. I mean, if you are going to decorate the table with lights, might as well do a complete job, OK?   

Man, I wish my work space/bench looked half as decent/organized as yours look :twothumbs

Will


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## precisionworks

> I wish my work space/bench looked half as decent/organized as yours


+1

Even my shop dogs stay out of the machine room


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## LLCoolBeans

Darkzero,

What do you use the ultratec for? I've been trying to find a use for mine for years. Difficult to justify that impulse buy. Just had to have it at the time, but really, it's completely useless after you've played with it for about a week.


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## darkzero

wquiles said:


> Well, Will, I am disappointed. Big time. In that second photo, behind the soldering stations and the Fluke meter there is still some available table space that still is not covered with flashlights. I mean, if you are going to decorate the table with lights, might as well do a complete job, OK?
> 
> Man, I wish my work space/bench looked half as decent/organized as yours look :twothumbs
> 
> Will


 
LOL. Ok, ok, you got me. I tidied up a bit before taking the pic. 
Like all those LEs, I put them the side for the pic. And my soap holder that I use to hold my dental picks in order, well lets just say it doesn't get used much. :laughing:

And the space where I keep my lights (well at least it's where I try to keep them). I don't even want to go there. See all that dust? When ever I concince myself to do some cleaning, that area never gets touched. It's too much work moving all those lights otherwise I would have used it for something else. Too bad it's not twice that size otherwise I would've thrown my lathe right there.  I'm sure I would get yelled at if I could. I hate when reach for one of them & knock one over, half of them go down! I'm scared of that area now, it's the forbidden area.

Besides, I'm a noob, I work with what I got. Maybe someday I will learn how to make me a nice workshop like you guys so I can really get messy!




LLCoolBeans said:


> Darkzero,
> 
> What do you use the ultratec for? I've been trying to find a use for mine for years. Difficult to justify that impulse buy. Just had to have it at the time, but really, it's completely useless after you've played with it for about a week.


 
Do you mean the Microtech? I didn't even notice I had it there. It was a birthday gift. It's a UTX-70 with the California legal blade. I carry it everday along with my PD-S.


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## LLCoolBeans

darkzero said:


> Do you mean the Microtech? I didn't even notice I had it there. It was a birthday gift. It's a UTX-70 with the California legal blade. I carry it everday along with my PD-S.



Yes, ultratech is the model I have. UTX-70 is the mini version of the ultratech. It looked like an ultratech from the photo.


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## mdocod

darkzero said:


> ...
> 
> Besides, I'm a noob, I work with what I got. Maybe someday I will learn how to make me a nice workshop like you guys so I can really get messy!
> 
> ...



I don't see anything in that picture that suggests "noob" in any way.  Give your self some credit!!! 

Nice picts, I'm jealous 

-Eric


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## Stillphoto

I'm just a tinkerer...not a serious modder by any means, but I always love insight into the tools and tricks.

Funny all the talk about these various arms reminded me of arms I see in use every time I'm on a film set. I knew they were called israeli arms, and you'll never guess who makes them...

http://www.filmtools.com/noga.html

Don't get too distracted in their lighting department boys...though you can see how much the industry's crazy led setups cost.


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## Bruceter

precisionworks said:


> Sometimes, a special size twist drill is needed to adjust the thread percentage of a tap. Thread forming taps always use slightly larger holes than thread cutting taps. The photos show a slightly over sized drill bit being reduce to the needed size.
> 
> 
> *Twist drill held in 5C collet in spin index*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *It takes two or three light passes to hit final diameter. I check with a Mitu electronic mic that reads to .00001", so it isn't hard to sneak up on the final diameter.*



When you grind a drill down in diameter like this, how do you get the flute relief back onto the drill?

Bruceter


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## 65535

Flute relief isn't absolutely necessary, I would assume PW doesn't use much other than a drill press or mill with these special diameter drill bits so keeping everything in check along with proper cutting fluid/coolant makes the lack of relief a non issue.


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## LEDobsession

darkzero said:


> Here's some of my tools that get used daily.



 Holy Wow! I have nowhere near that much electrical stuff! You have what looks to me, a lot of P7's. I felt pretty cool with the eight in my room waiting to be let loose. I wish to someday have that many goodies. :thumbsup:


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## deebee

I hope this is the best spot to post this ebay listing-it looks useful:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=220325057878


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## LLCoolBeans

deebee said:


> I hope this is the best spot to post this ebay listing-it looks useful:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=220325057878



Assuming it works, it will be very useful. Just ordered one, from US eBay, thanks.


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## Anglepoise

I was using this home made tool recently, and realized how useful it has been.
It is designed to aid in aligning and attaching an LED emitter or star to its heatsink.
While the adhesive is setting up, an internal spring is keeping a constant force on the emitter 
thus guaranteeing alignment and just the right amount of adhesive to make a good contact for heat transfer.

The first picture should be self explanatory. Make the 2 aluminum pieces a nice sliding fit,
don't go crazy on the power of the spring and polish the inside of the 'business' end so that it fits the dome of the LED snugly.









Second pic shows the 'tool' gripped in a tail stock mounted drill chuck.
Dome of LED is inside tool, and along with the spring, not visible.


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## 65535

Anglepoise said:


> I was using this home made tool recently, and realized how useful it has been.
> It is designed to aid in aligning and attaching an LED emitter or star to its heatsink.
> While the adhesive is setting up, an internal spring is keeping a constant force on the emitter
> thus guaranteeing alignment and just the right amount of adhesive to make a good contact for heat transfer.
> 
> The first picture should be self explanatory. Make the 2 aluminum pieces a nice sliding fit,
> don't go crazy on the power of the spring and polish the inside of the 'business' end so that it fits the dome of the LED snugly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second pic shows the 'tool' gripped in a tail stock mounted drill chuck.
> Dome of LED is inside tool, and along with the spring, not visible.



That's a really clever design. I like it a lot.


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## wquiles

Anglepoise said:


> I was using this home made tool recently, and realized how useful it has been.
> It is designed to aid in aligning and attaching an LED emitter or star to its heatsink.
> While the adhesive is setting up, an internal spring is keeping a constant force on the emitter
> thus guaranteeing alignment and just the right amount of adhesive to make a good contact for heat transfer.
> 
> The first picture should be self explanatory. Make the 2 aluminum pieces a nice sliding fit,
> don't go crazy on the power of the spring and polish the inside of the 'business' end so that it fits the dome of the LED snugly.
> 
> 
> 
> (snip)
> 
> Second pic shows the 'tool' gripped in a tail stock mounted drill chuck.
> Dome of LED is inside tool, and along with the spring, not visible.
> 
> (snip)



Very nice David. I do something similar, although I made my alignment adapter out of Delrin, and I typically use the body (or head) where the emiter will reside so that the emiter is centered to the body/head of the light. 







Get star in place:






place Delrin adapter in place, gently rotating it to get the emiter centered:






and momentarily apply light pressure to seat the emiter in place:





Will


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## wquiles

darkzero said:


> I couldn't agree more on the dental picks. I have a case full of them but there are three specific ones I can't live without.
> 
> "One can never have too many tools" & I agree with this saying. I've got tools that I've never even used yet or have only used once. Being a former auto "mechanic" I ended up with a nice set of tools that should last me a lifetime. Was expensive buying from the tool trucks but in the end well worth. Most of them don't apply to flashlight modding though of course. Being here has made me purchase a lot more tools that I would probably never use again if I left here.
> 
> Here's one tool that I've been using ever since I joined here, one of my most used & favorite tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I'll post some more later.



Well Will, you would be proud of me. I finally got my own, and already put it to good use yesterday!:






Will


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## gadget_lover

Here's a simple trick, but it requires a DRO. I found I was able to use the DRO memory to accurately duplicate hole layout.

I was mounting a DRO scale on the quill of my mill. It's one of those cheap Chinese units using the same technology as a HF caliper. As usual, all the brackets were cobbled together from bits and pieces.

The back of the reader's body was pre-drilled and tapped for 3mm .5 pitch screws. 6 of them. I could have used my transfer punches, but I did not want to disassemble the body in order to transfer the hole pattern to the bracket. In the past I had problems re-assembling the unit. The other common trick is to use screws that are filed to a point to transfer the locations. I did not feel like making 6 of them.

I have the X and Y axis of my DRO working, so I decided to try to use that. I loosely secured the DRO body in the vice, Then used my wiggler to center in the hole. I marked the X and Y in memory 1. I decided that 4 screws would be plenty. I repeated this with the other 3 corner holes, storing the location in memory 2 through 4.

The next step was to put the bracket in the same relative position and use the memory recall to accurately drill close tolerance holes at each location. After all were done I test fitted it to the reader. I held my breath as I screwed each one in, but they all fit perfectly.

Since that worked so well I decided to try my luck. I put the bracket back in the vise (minus the DRO body) and re-indicated on the first hole. I used the memory to accurately find each of the other holes. I then proceeded to countersink each of the holes so the screws were exactly level with the surface of the bracket. They came out beautifully.

I've never been any good at transferring holes using tracing paper. I do OK with transfer punches. I could have done the same thing with pencil, paper and the dials on the hand-wheels, but it would have been much slower and more error prone. The DRO makes it dead simple and hard to mess up.

Now I'm thinking of a DRO for my micro mill X and Y.

Daniel


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## darkzero

wquiles said:


> Well Will, you would be proud of me. I finally got my own, and already put it to good use yesterday!:
> 
> 
> Will


 
I sure am! :twothumbs

What's funny is I can literaly say the exact same thing word for word even down to the name! :laughing:

So let me say: Well Will, you would be proud of me. I finally got my own, and already put it to good use yesterday!













Cheers,

-Will-

:wave:


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## wquiles

Awesome dude :thumbsup:

Nice looking bikes in the back 

Will


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## darkzero

Well what do you know, HF sells the pin vises now: 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65007


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## wquiles

All I know is that thanks to you I now have one - it is awesome :twothumbs

I found an easy way to attached the pin vise to my electronics bench:











Will


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## darkzero

wquiles said:


> All I know is that thanks to you I now have one - it is awesome :twothumbs
> 
> I found an easy way to attached the pin vise to my electronics bench:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will


 
Cool, great idea Will!

Curious, the base on yours, is it round with two flat sides or something? Caught my eye as it looks different from when mine used to have the square end.

I love that Panavise attachment you posted earlier. I've been meaning to get one too. :thumbsup:


----------



## wquiles

darkzero said:


> Cool, great idea Will!
> 
> Curious, the base on yours, is it round with two flat sides or something? Caught my eye as it looks different from when mine used to have the square end.
> 
> I love that Panavise attachment you posted earlier. I've been meaning to get one too. :thumbsup:



Yup, also round with two flat sides. In the photo above is just happens to be aligned so that you can see the round part. At the beginning I was holding the pin vise with the Panavise (after removing the rubber inserts), but it was not sturdy enough since the Panavise has some flex. Bolting it to the table (which is of course removable) gives me a completely solid setup now 

Will


----------



## darkzero

Anglepoise said:


> I was using this home made tool recently, and realized how useful it has been.
> It is designed to aid in aligning and attaching an LED emitter or star to its heatsink.
> While the adhesive is setting up, an internal spring is keeping a constant force on the emitter
> thus guaranteeing alignment and just the right amount of adhesive to make a good contact for heat transfer.
> 
> The first picture should be self explanatory. Make the 2 aluminum pieces a nice sliding fit,
> don't go crazy on the power of the spring and polish the inside of the 'business' end so that it fits the dome of the LED snugly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second pic shows the 'tool' gripped in a tail stock mounted drill chuck.
> Dome of LED is inside tool, and along with the spring, not visible.


 

Anglepoise, thank you very much for sharing this. I think it's a very great idea. I like it so much I had to make one for a P7. :twothumbs

I stuck one of RocketTomatoe's low force PD springs in the tail end.


----------



## wquiles

darkzero said:


> Anglepoise, thank you very much for sharing this. I think it's a very great idea. I like it so much I had to make one for a P7. :twothumbs
> 
> I stuck one of RocketTomatoe's low force PD springs in the tail end.



Nice going dude 

Will


----------



## Illum

darkzero said:


>




I really need to get back in perspective....now that I looked at the picture again now I can see the flashlights behind the solder station.

When I saw this the first time I said to myself "If you need a bottle of Aleve under your solder station...then you are working way too hard"


----------



## iconoclast

OK, so on a quick scan of this thread two things stick out... Noga arm and Pin Vice.

Let's see if I have this right...















(ok, ok, the pin vice doesn't normally live there, a mitutoyo indicator does. But both pieces resulted from recommendations in this thread and others like it. And both pieces rock. So this is my feeble attempt to say "thanks guys!" and maybe resuscitate this thread a bit as well.)
:thumbsup:


----------



## wquiles

I have been working on a Streamlight TL3 LED conversion for well over a month but to finish it I had to do some operations on the mill. The problem is what when you have a chuck on a RT, if the item is "small" in diameter and you drop it inside the chuck, how do you get it out? Also, wouldn't it would be nice to have a way to hold the item from the bottom? As they say, necessity is the mother of invention ...

Here is the "problem, my 6" Buck Chuck on my Yuasa RT:






I came up with a piece of Delrin, fitted diameter-wise to the ID of the chuck, and barely smaller in height than the chuck jaws:











To make it adjustable (and to have a way to pull it out of the chuck when I am done, I threaded a 1/4-20 bolt:











and here it is in use. You can place the item to be cut/mill and slowly close the jaws, while the adjustable rest keeps it in place, with no fear of following inside the chuck, plus it makes for a very repeatable setup if you have to take the piece out and put back - the height stays the same:






For anyone interested, here is the full thread for the TL3 conversion:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2982822#post2982822


Will


----------



## sed6

gadget_lover said:


> The back of the reader's body was pre-drilled and tapped for 3mm .5 pitch screws. 6 of them. I could have used my transfer punches, but I did not want to disassemble the body in order to transfer the hole pattern to the bracket. In the past I had problems re-assembling the unit. The other common trick is to use screws that are filed to a point to transfer the locations. I did not feel like making 6 of them.


 
Hope I'm not too off topic here but...another common trick is to lay a piece of paper on the back of the body and use a pencil or chalk to rub the outline of the holes. You can then easliy transfer the pattern to another surface. Used this trick many times mounting powerstrips, etc.


----------



## gadget_lover

I like that stop Will. I was thinking that you'd be making a 'spider' to use as a stop. 

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=32701

But I like the simplicity of that idea.

Re: pattern transfers...
I've never been to good using the paper + rub technique to transfer holes. I always seem to be off or canted to one side. It IS a good trick if you have even the smallest amount of skill.

Keep 'em coming! 

Daniel.


----------



## precisionworks

The photos of the spider, referenced by Daniel, reminded me of a mod to the tips of my 3-jaw chuck, also for turning small parts close to the chuck. A small piece of rod stock, .500" IIRC, was chucked so that it was about 1/4" back from the face of the jaws. A solid carbide, 1/2" end mill was gripped in the Jacobs chuck in the tail stock. The spindle was started and the end mill plunged in about .100", then offset to the side to act as a boring tool.

Really handy for making quick spacers that don't need to be dead perfect - that would be done on the surface grinder.


----------



## darkzero

As you guys might have noticed, I use brass tabs for the battery contact in all of my later builds. I used to cut & sand these by hand which was time consuming & killer on the fingers. 

A while back I had asked wquiles if he could cut some for me so I sent him some brass rod. He wasn't able to turn them & said he needed to find another solution. Although I don't recall him saying why, now I think I know why. So I then found another solution, of course not recommended, I chucked the rod in my drill press & cut them using a mini hacksaw. Much easier & yielded much nicer results than my previous method but this was still very time consuming. I would spend two hour sessions cutting a bunch of them in various sizes. Many of them came out looking worse than what met my standards so I found myself only using a small precentage of the batches I made.

Now that I have a mini lathe I can make nicer ones & consistently. Problem I have now is after upgrading to a 6 jaw chuck I was no longer able to to hold suck a small workpiece. I think this is the reason why Will couldn't cut them at that time.

A CPF buddy advised me to just wrap the rod with some tape to give it a large enough diameter to hold. This would have worked fine but the problem is I would be cutting a number of tabs which would require me to remove & reapply the tape often which I wasn't willing to do.

I had an idea. I picked up a DA200 collet to chuck the rod as I chuck the collect in my chuck which allows me to quickly & easily readjust the length after cutting & chuck again. 


The problem...






The solution...












The result...
I'm using a Nickole Mini Systems grooving/cut off tool (thanks to Will!) & as you can see works great!


----------



## wquiles

Yup, that was exactly the problem I had. I am glad you found a solution, and that you shared it, so now I know how to do it as well. Thanks :thumbsup:


----------



## ICUDoc

Niiice pics- thanks. I think I need a collett system- supposed to be excellent for reproducibility.


----------



## tino_ale

>



I have purchased one of these too!

The concept of this little "universal" vise is great, I only wish I could say the same about the built quality. Mine is very badly machined, with an impressive "backlash" in the tightening screw and remarkably awefull surface finish.

It'll see some use though, it's still functionnal and does what it does.

For those who have one, I suggest using some heatshrink or RC fuel tubing over the pins to make them anti-slip and non scratching, if needed.


----------



## wquiles

Same here. Mine is not the greatest quality (you get what you paid for - mine was about $15), but it does surprisingly well and it is an awesome 3rd and 4rd hand around the bench


----------



## precisionworks

> I think I need a collet system- supposed to be excellent for reproducibility.


For making multiples, it's hard to beat a collet closer in the lathe. Every now & then a Hardinge HL-V will show up for sale with a full set of 5C collets ... seems like someone posted one recently on this forum for under $5k.


----------



## dom

I made this many years ago for when i was knifemaking (short career).
The knife is added to the picture to show the usefulness of the vise.

It is a compound angle vise which can be rotated to any angle you like.

I based it off a Niigata compound angle head manual mill and can also use the chart that is used with that machine to get the same angles on the vise.

I'll be using it to make some LED light parts -so i thought i'd put it in this thread just in case someone might want to make their own.:huh:

Though it was ALOT of work to make -it was well worth it. 
Not sure if you can buy anything similar.

AA battery to show how big the vise is










Cheers
Dom


----------



## wquiles

If you can find them used, you can buy something "similar", the Delta Rockwell Univise (thanks Barry!):






















Somebody in Ebay (maybe 800watt) now has a very cheap clone of it, but Barry's advice was to try to buy the real one used instead. 

Will


----------



## saltytri

Here's one:

http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=univise

"Out of Stock" though.


----------



## Nitroz

Subscribed.

This is a great thread!


----------



## Nitroz

While I was browsing the Harbor Freight site I found some picks. I did not know they carried these.


----------



## Alan B

Nitroz said:


> While I was browsing the Harbor Freight site I found some picks. I did not know they carried these.



I purchased some of (what looks like) those at HF and they were junk. Destroyed them on first use. They were pretty soft.


----------



## gadget_lover

Every once in a while I need to drill or mill something close to the edge while it's clamped in a vise. I have parallels and I have thin parallels. I also have a set of wood parallels. Those are the tool of choice in this case.

You may know these as 'craft Popsicle sticks'. A pack of 100 for a few bucks. You can get them in various widths. They are often pretty close to the same dimension. If I need them more parallel I skim the top of a pair (or 3 or 4) stacked on a commercial parallel and held in the vise.

Daniel


----------



## McGizmo

Some of those vise shots remind me of a graver's vise that I think has been mentioned in some past threads but definitely a handy bench vise and part holder! (no good for machining of course)


----------



## choffman

> Nitroz said:
> 
> 
> 
> While I was browsing the Harbor Freight site I found some picks. I did not know they carried these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alan B said:
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased some of (what looks like) those at HF and they were junk. Destroyed them on first use. They were pretty soft.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

+1

If anyone knows where to get a good set of picks or even a good brand name to hunt for, I'd be very grateful for the recommendation.


----------



## precisionworks

I ask my dentist to save the worn picks that he would throw away, and he always has one or two every six months.


----------



## Nitroz

Alan B said:


> I purchased some of (what looks like) those at HF and they were junk. Destroyed them on first use. They were pretty soft.



Bummer! But it's good to know that they are junk rather than waste money. Thanks!

Looks like I will have to hit the dentist up for some old ones like precisionworks suggested.


----------



## gadget_lover

The HF picks are usable, but it depends on what you want to use them for. Fishing a part from a hole, teasing a wire out of a bundle, etc.

I also get 'used' picks from my dentist along with 'dull' carbide dental burrs. I find the picks are too fine for much of what I do.

For scraping I use plaster sculpting tools. For special use probes, I cut a length of piano wire and drill it into the end of a 1/4 inch hardwood dowel. 

Daniel


----------



## precisionworks

> I cut a length of piano wire and drill it into the end of a 1/4 inch hardwood dowel.


I do sort of the same thing, but use small diameter (1/8") W1 drill rod. Grinds to shape easily as long as you don't let it get warm enough to change color. When the shape is what you want, heat it glowing red with a propane torch & quench in cold water, which yields a super hard but delicate tool. Temper with propane torch if you want less hardness but greater toughness.


----------



## choffman

precisionworks said:


> I ask my dentist to save the worn picks that he would throw away, and he always has one or two every six months.




Great idea, thanks.


----------



## McGizmo

On the subject of pics and probes, the real dental stuff as well as good jeweler's tools are "real tools" and quite handy. I also have found countless uses for some NITINOL wire and rod. I wanted to mess with some 1/16" rod a number of years ago and had to buy a minimum order which was a number of 6' sticks. In short lengths they make real handy picks and prods and probes. Good for fids for splicing small diameter lines too. A full length stick makes an awesome electrical fish tape. The NITINOL can bend significantly and still return to original shape.

I more recently determined that the fancy fish leader wire sold as titanium is in fact NITINOL and here you can get some small diameter wires which have great physical properties that will blow you away.


----------



## BoarHunter

precisionworks said:


> I ask my dentist to save the worn picks that he would throw away, and he always has one or two every six months.



I do that too and also ask for their used diamond coated bits ! 
Comes very handy to sharpen, makes carbide tools.

Most of chinese made handtools are junks but note they are OK to hold pieces you need to solder or grind. You don't care if they get damaged.


----------



## darkzero

I was at the fishing section at Walmart the other day with a buddy & saw this cool tackle box for holding fishing line. BTW, many of my storage & tool boxes for small stuff are by Plano for fishing. They make great tackle boxes & small cases. So I had an idea, grabbed the fishinng line box, walked over to the craft section & picked up some wooden dowels. After a few days of searching without any luck, I finally decided to drive by the local fishing store & was very happy to find what I needed. Picked up some empty spools for fishing line. Here's what I came up with......



















I felt very lucky to find the empty spools that I had a hard time finding. The guy at the fishing store was cool & I explained what I needed them for. Flashlight modding came up & he was interested. So now it looks like I might be making him a Mag mod in return for the favor. He let me have the spools for free! :twothumbs

I got tired storing my spools of wire in a shipping box from the Shoppe. BTW, those shipping boxes from the Shoppe come in handy too, 90% of my parts are stored away in them. Since wire gets used most frequently I find my new wire caddy very handy even though it's a bit larger than I would have liked but I'm loving it. 

And in case any one was wondering, no I didn't sit there & wind the wire onto those spools by hand, that would've taken for ever. I chucked the large spool in the lathe & just flipped the switch.


----------



## wquiles

Very good idea Will


----------



## wquiles

I am working on an LED Head for a canister diving light project, and I am again using a thin copper disk on the Barbolight head to mount the MC-E LED. The problem is that when I cut-off the disk, the side where the cutter was used was not nice nor even. The first time I patiently use sandpaper and got it nice and flat, but this time I borrowed a trick I learned here in the forum and used a "collet" to hold the thin disk while I get it "flat" on the lathe:

Here is the clean side:






Here is the "other" side:






I made the collet out of scrap piece of Delrin, a few mills smaller than the disk, and then slit it:






Here is the copper disk tightly held in place - depth of the "pocket" is about 70 thou, and the disk is about 85 thou thick:






and here is the resulting after facing off. I went very slowly as I was not sure how well the collet would grab the disk, but it was completely solid and stable:






a light pass on wet 600 sand paper and it will be ready!






Man I love how much one can learn from this subforum alone :bow:

Will


----------



## darkzero

Cool! Wish you had posted an hour ago!  

I find myself having to make thin spacers/discs like this too. I just finished another one today. Not knowing a better way to do it (learned this from someone here), the way I've been doing it is after I part off the disc, I face the stock that it was cut off from. I then epoxy the disc back onto the stock backwards. Give just enough time for the epxoy to set. Then I face the disc (must do light passes only otherwise it will fall off but not much is needed to be removed anyway). When I'm done, depending on which epoxy I use or how long it has set, I can just easily pop the disc back off with a razor blade or apply a little heat then pop it off.

I'll have to try your method sometime but I find myself having to make these discs in various sizes so I would have to make a new "collet" everytime. I'm pretty used to the method I use so I can do it farly quick.

Thank you for sharing! :thumbsup:


Here's an example of a brass ring that I had to make using the same method:


----------



## wquiles

I like your method as well, thanks for sharing it. I know it will surely come handy to have this other option, specially since I would not have to make a custom collet for each disk, and specially since the collet would not work well on a "very" thin disk, while your method would 

Will


----------



## Atlascycle

Another tip for parting off pieces (this will not work if you are using a carbide insert cut-off tool) is to sharpen the parting blade at an angle so that it cuts through on the part side before it parts it off of the bar. I seem to remember seeing something in the msc catalog the other day also about inserts that have an angle on them for just this purpose also.

Jason


----------



## precisionworks

You'll probably think this sounds crazy, but the easiest way to separate a piece where the parting tool is deeply buried in the cut is with a 5# brass hammer 

This works really well on tube stock, where the parting tool sometimes catches as the tool goes through the inside wall. Run the tool in until you can just see the bulge that indicates the tool is about to break through. Stop the lathe, withdraw the tool, strike the tube at the top, just in front of the parting cut. You do have to be selective where this technique is used, as you can damage a thin walled steel tube or a thicker walled aluminum tube, but it is a nice method for some parts.


----------



## gadget_lover

This tip is sort of embarrassing.

I bought a knock-off of a NOGA indicator arm. One thumb screw locks all pivot points at once, so you can adjust it easily with one hand.

As I made a post with a dovetail to to fit the lug on the back of the dial indicator, I realized that the hole in the clamping end of the arm was close to the diameter of the stem on the DI.

Sure enough.










The stem of the indicator fits right through the hole. I had thought the hole was there to remove enough material to provide some give when the screw is tightened to clamp down on the dovetails. It appears to be there to hold DI. The dovetail fits a DTI.

DUH!


----------



## gadget_lover

While I'm at it... 

A small lathe has less room for things like magnetic holders. You still need full size tools like dials, but a standard magnet mount can be a hassle.







So I made up a dovetailed holder for a 'mini' knockoff of a NOGA indicator arm. 
The knock off arm was less than $15 and works quite well with this light load.


----------



## wquiles

Daniel,

I need one of those cheap full-size Noga copies for an LED lamp that I want to build for my mill - can you please let me know where you got yours from?

Will


----------



## gadget_lover

I got them from Shars.com.
http://www.shars.com/product_categories/view/5/Measuring_Tools Note that that page only has their featured tools.

The mini arm is http://www.shars.com/products/view/1456/Test_Indicator_Holder_Arm_Only

The bigger ones manage the heavier parts quite well. I even set one up to hold my larger digital camera. It's over a pound. http://www.shars.com/product_categories/view/51404/Hydraulic



Daniel


----------



## wquiles

Thanks much 

Will


----------



## TranquillityBase

Best flashlight accessory, bar none...A "must have" shop tool 

NiteIze Fiber Optic Adapter


----------



## PhotonFanatic

wquiles said:


> I am working on an LED Head for a canister diving light project, and I am again using a thin copper disk on the Barbolight head to mount the MC-E LED. The problem is that when I cut-off the disk, the side where the cutter was used was not nice nor even. The first time I patiently use sandpaper and got it nice and flat, but this time I borrowed a trick I learned here in the forum and used a "collet" to hold the thin disk while I get it "flat" on the lathe:
> 
> . . .
> 
> 
> Man I love how much one can learn from this subforum alone :bow:
> 
> Will



You can simply buy the right tool--an angled parting tool from, say, Sandvik, that leaves your parted piece clean and the pip remains on the chucked piece. Further sanding on a sheet of sandpaper is an option, if you didn't have the tool height correct, of course.


----------



## wquiles

PhotonFanatic said:


> You can simply buy the right tool--an angled parting tool from, say, Sandvik, that leaves your parted piece clean and the pip remains on the chucked piece. Further sanding on a sheet of sandpaper is an option, if you didn't have the tool height correct, of course.



Excellent point Fred. I am pretty sure that the cut-off tool I used had a neutral cut (plus the cutting edge is not as sharp as an HSS can have), so I created the problem for myself. In fact I think I "do" have an angled HSS parting blade somewhere in my "shop". I just have to find it now. Thanks :thumbsup:


----------



## precisionworks

> I think I "do" have an angled HSS parting blade


If you have a diamond wheel, you can quickly reshape an insert to give the angled point. Diamond wheels aren't expensive on eBay if you shop a little, and they are invaluable for making a custom shaped insert. Mine mostly gets used to sharpen a grooving tool that sees nothing but grey cast iron - a few seconds on the diamond & the insert is like new again.

Which is really nice since those inserts are $15 each :mecry:


----------



## wquiles

precisionworks said:


> If you have a diamond wheel, you can quickly reshape an insert to give the angled point. Diamond wheels aren't expensive on eBay if you shop a little, and they are invaluable for making a custom shaped insert. Mine mostly gets used to sharpen a grooving tool that sees nothing but grey cast iron - a few seconds on the diamond & the insert is like new again.
> 
> Which is really nice since those inserts are $15 each :mecry:



Barry,

This is the tool grinder that I have (which I got lucky in that it is really well balanced and purs like a kitten!):
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46727

From the description it says 6" wheel, with 1.25" arbor, but looking at this online-manual, it looks like the wheels are attached via a plate and screws:
www.finelinehair.com/home/Tool_grinder_manual.pdf

What diamond wheel (and what grit) from Ebay would fit on it?

Will


----------



## precisionworks

This one looks just like the one I have, and the grit is the same IIRC:

http://cgi.ebay.com/6-DIAMOND-PLAIN...in_0?hash=item3ef70c21cc&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

The four bolt hole pattern is universal (pretty much) among tool grinders, so it should go right on. If you ever start TIG welding, a diamond wheel is the best way to sharpen tungstens.

My approach was to use a $49 Ryobi bench grinder (don't laugh, it runs without vibration). Since the diamond wheel hole is 1.250", and the shaft is .625", an aluminum hub adapter was turned on the lathe. This allowed me to use a tool grinder wheel on a bench grinder.











The hub adapter is 2" until it touches the back of the wheel, then necked down to 1.250" to center the diamond wheel on the shaft. A large washer lets the nut clamp the wheel to the shaft.


----------



## KowShak

precisionworks said:


> a few seconds on the diamond & the insert is like new again


 
You're not the only person I've heard of resharpening "throw-away" carbide inserts, my Dad had only had one lathe tool that took inserts and he only ever bought one insert for it but kept sharpening that single insert, unfortunately the insert got chipped late in it's life and he's back to his brazed tools and HSS.


----------



## precisionworks

Everyday inserts, like the CNMG-4xx that cost a dollar or two, get tossed into a can when used up. The grooving inserts are different, as they are expensive & no longer made (Circle Tool Groove-It). Circle lost a lawsuit with another maker & agreed to no longer make either the holder or inserts. The inserts are long enough that I can regrind one for quite a few dozen parts before there's nothing left to grind - pretty much a rectangular carbide bar on edge. They are the easiest insert possible to sharpen, almost like working with HSS lathe tooling.


----------



## wquiles

gadget_lover said:


> The bigger ones manage the heavier parts quite well. I even set one up to hold my larger digital camera. It's over a pound. http://www.shars.com/product_categories/view/51404/Hydraulic
> 
> Daniel



Daniel,

Something I missed - how exactly do you hold/attach your camera to the end of the holder?

Will


----------



## gadget_lover

The standard thread for a camera tripod is 1/4 x 20 tpi.

I use a 1 inch bolt with a 1/2 inch sleeve. The sleeve fits into the hole where the dial indicator stem fits. A nut cinches up against the bottom of the camera..

I shoud make a nicely threaded stud, but I don't use it THAT often. I need to edit the slow motion clips of turning a piece of steel so I can post it.

Daniel


----------



## wquiles

Thank you - that helps a lot. I am waiting for my order from Shars - I will let you know how it works out 

Will


----------



## Bruceter

precisionworks said:


> Everyday inserts, like the CNMG-4xx that cost a dollar or two, get tossed into a can when used up. The grooving inserts are different, as they are expensive & no longer made (Circle Tool Groove-It). Circle lost a lawsuit with another maker & agreed to no longer make either the holder or inserts. The inserts are long enough that I can regrind one for quite a few dozen parts before there's nothing left to grind - pretty much a rectangular carbide bar on edge. They are the easiest insert possible to sharpen, almost like working with HSS lathe tooling.



If you are looking for more of that type of insert, try Thin-Bit.
I hadn't heard anything about the lawsuit, but those inserts look a lot like the ones that Thin-Bit makes.

Bruceter


----------



## precisionworks

I believe that Thinbit was the company that sued Circle Tool (now a division of KennaMetal). Their designs are _almost _identical but Circle uses a V-shaped lower contact area, so neither one will interchange with the other. MSC/J&L had one of their 35% off sales right about the time that the lawsuit settled, and I bought a large quantity of the insert that gets run the most - even on sale, they were just over $10 each.

This particular job is pretty high profit, and pays about 3X my normal shop rate. It did require half a days investment to make the dedicated fixturing, plus the special grooving inserts & holder, but those costs were quickly recovered. If the inserts could not be sharpened, the profit margin would be a lot less.


----------



## Clark

TranquillityBase said:


> Best flashlight accessory, bar none...A "must have" shop tool
> 
> NiteIze Fiber Optic Adapter



I inspect rifle barrels with long Nite Ize accessory.


----------



## wquiles

precisionworks said:


> If you have a diamond wheel, you can quickly reshape an insert to give the angled point. Diamond wheels aren't expensive on eBay if you shop a little, and they are invaluable for making a custom shaped insert. Mine mostly gets used to sharpen a grooving tool that sees nothing but grey cast iron - a few seconds on the diamond & the insert is like new again.
> 
> Which is really nice since those inserts are $15 each :mecry:



Well, you were right once again :nana:

I got the Diamond grinding wheel from Ebay, did some free hand grinding on the carbide insert in my DoGrip parting tool (neutral cut), and I think it is now working just fine ...
















here is a close-up of the very sharp and angled (my guess around 7-10 deg) cutting edge:






Thank you again 

Will


----------



## wquiles

tino_ale said:


> I have purchased one of these too!
> 
> The concept of this little "universal" vise is great, I only wish I could say the same about the built quality. Mine is very badly machined, with an impressive "backlash" in the tightening screw and remarkably awefull surface finish.
> 
> It'll see some use though, it's still functionnal and does what it does.
> 
> For those who have one, I suggest using some heatshrink or RC fuel tubing over the pins to make them anti-slip and non scratching, if needed.



I have been using this pin vice for about a year now and I too have been really disgusted with how poorly made it is, and how much slop there is on the sliding surfaced. So instead of buying a premium vice from Otto Frei for $350-500, I simply rebuild my pin vice with fitted Delrin sleeves - the difference is like day and night. Once I finish the "project" I will create a new post with all of the photos and details


----------



## wquiles

I just finished - here is the link:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/273500

Will


----------



## sosemot728

darkzero said:


>



Random question, what is the name of that green desk protector mat and where can I get one!? I have been looking everywhere for something like that


----------



## snoboy

Try a local fabric or crafts store. They sell them for cutting on with rotary cutters.


----------



## darkzero

matthewm said:


> Random question, what is the name of that green desk protector mat and where can I get one!? I have been looking everywhere for something like that


 
What I have is actually not prefered. I was originally going to use ESD matting which is appropiate for the work I do like I have on my bench at work. But the stuff I want is expensive & it doesn't make sense to buy a roll of it now for my current desk which is not cheap.

It's a self healing mat & as snoboy mentioned can be found at any craft store. This one replaced my old beat up Xacto brand self healing mat that I got more than 15 years ago. The one I have now is made by Alvin, the other side is black.








OLFA is another popular brand of self healing mats. That light blue piece under my pin vise is also a self healing mat which was a left over piece of the Craftsman one I used for my tool box/rolling service cart.


----------



## ICUDoc

matthewm said:


> Random question, what is the name of that green desk protector mat and where can I get one!? I have been looking everywhere for something like that



Jaycar has them. A3 benchtop work mat. They are good. Not resistant to soldering irons 'though!


----------



## wquiles

These guys also have a great variety of cutting mats, accessories, etc.: http://www.cutting-mats.net/

I just placed an order for an 12x18 mat from them


----------



## sosemot728

wquiles said:


> These guys also have a great variety of cutting mats, accessories, etc.: http://www.cutting-mats.net/
> 
> I just placed an order for an 12x18 mat from them



I just wasn't searching for "Cutting Mats" now I can find them everywhere! :candle:

I found a source for mats in Australia finally, if anyone is interested 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BN-A1-Self-Healing-Craft-Cutting-Mat-RRP-89-95-/160428941004?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Scrapbooking&hash=item255a4f5ecc#ht_4414wt_960


----------



## darkzero

wquiles said:


> These guys also have a great variety of cutting mats, accessories, etc.: http://www.cutting-mats.net/
> 
> I just placed an order for an 12x18 mat from them


 
Exactly where I got my 12x18 mat.


----------



## wquiles

darkzero said:


> Exactly where I got my 12x18 mat.



I got the mats today - awesome quality. Here is my updated bench with it.

Thanks much Will


----------



## Illum

how melt resistant are these mattes? if I accidentally dropped a ball of solder on it will it leave a crater?:thinking:


----------



## wquiles

Illum said:


> how melt resistant are these mattes? if I accidentally dropped a ball of solder on it will it leave a crater?:thinking:



Definitely not designed for soldering. I would bet money that they will leave at least a "mark" if not a "crater"


----------



## 65535

Illum said:


> how melt resistant are these mattes? if I accidentally dropped a ball of solder on it will it leave a crater?:thinking:



What are you soldering that you would have a ball built up? Copper pipe?

Seriously though if you solder sloppily then the best solution is a ceramic plate under your work surface.


----------



## darkzero

65535 said:


> What are you soldering that you would have a ball built up? Copper pipe?
> 
> Seriously though if you solder sloppily then the best solution is a ceramic plate under your work surface.


 
+1

I've soldered over my mat for years (old & new one) & I can't say that I've ever dropped a ball of solder on it to cause damage to it. I'm sure a good size blob of solder would cause some very minor melting but even on an ESD mat it would.


----------



## cmacclel

65535 said:


> What are you soldering that you would have a ball built up? Copper pipe?
> 
> Seriously though if you solder sloppily then the best solution is a ceramic plate under your work surface.


 
I get solder splatter / balls when trying to solder larger wire as in superflex 12ga. You just feed the solder as fast as you can to try to transfer the heat  It does not harm my ESD Mat.

Mac


----------



## precisionworks

After launching two parts from the standard jaws on the lathe chuck I decided to machine custom jaws to fit the part. Initial machining took 6 hours & 2 additional hours were needed for final shaping. Since the parts will run for 30 hours on the lathe, the soft jaws weren't hard to justify. And the customer only pays one time for them, so the cost is not recurring. 












The part is about 6" diameter, made of HDPE. There are two outside turns, two bevels, one bore & one counter bore, plus two parting cuts. It takes 6 hours to make 10 of these. 






Now if someone can figure out how to make the chips break


----------



## wquiles

Those are very nice soft jaws you have there dude!


----------



## precisionworks

wquiles said:


> Those are very nice soft jaws ...



TYVM 

I told the customer these were necessary to run his job & he said "will it cost more?" I replied no, that since the job could not be run without the soft jaws it would cost no more ... if I did not run his parts :nana: He understood. Many of the jobs that are run in my shop are similar, requiring specialized fixturing, tooling & setup.

FWIW, those jaws were cut from a piece of 1"x4" aluminum flat bar, but not the ordinary material that is most often seen. This material is Mic-6 cast aluminum tooling plate, Blanchard ground on both sides & really nice to work with. Using a fine point Sharpie marker the design was laid out on the flat bar which was 10" long. The rear slots were cut, first the "long" slot that runs in a radial direction on the chuck. Then the rest of the back side machining, including drilling a 3/8" hole for the bolt. The parts were rough cut on the Delta band saw & then milled to near net shape. 

A compression disc of the correct diameter was gripped tightly at the very back of the jaws & the jaws were bored to match the radius of the parts to be held. With the compression disc still in place, the angle was cut on the front of the jaws to allow clearance for an angle bevel operation.

Only one bolt secures each jaw, as the second bolt hole could not be drilled because of the jaw design. The jaws cant slightly inward when relaxed, but flatten out under compression.


----------



## wquiles

precisionworks said:


> This material is Mic-6 cast aluminum tooling plate, Blanchard ground on both sides & really nice to work with.



Where do you get/buy this "neat" tooling material?


----------



## rmteo

wquiles said:


> Where do you get/buy this "neat" tooling material?


Try your local metals supplier. I have used a lot of K100S (same thing, different name). They are available in sizes up to 12x4ft. and thickness from 0.25-4.00in. Here is more info http://www.speedymetals
.com/information/Material8.html


----------



## indadark

darkzero said:


>


 
Don't have any fancy machinery so...until I have time to buy a replacement, how can I explain to my wife why I've re-purposed the Toilet Paper Dispenser Rod? 

Awesome work guys! I love to tinker and love cool tools. I wish there was a machine shop you could by membership to learn and use the equipment like a gym.


----------



## evilc66

Actually, there are some places like that. They are commonly refered to as "hackerspaces". They have cropped up all over the country with the upsurge in inexpensive DIY components in electronics, machining, and rapid prototyping. I have a hackerspace near me that has numerous machines, electronics supplies, and 3D printers available to members. They have multiple payment options, depending on how often you plan on using the facilities, and what you want to use.


----------



## indadark

evilc66 said:


> Actually, there are some places like that. They are commonly refered to as "hackerspaces". They have cropped up all over the country with the upsurge in inexpensive DIY components in electronics, machining, and rapid prototyping. I have a hackerspace near me that has numerous machines, electronics supplies, and 3D printers available to members. They have multiple payment options, depending on how often you plan on using the facilities, and what you want to use.


 
One of the downsides to living on an island, it's almost certain a hackerspace will not be cropping up anytime soon.


----------



## precisionworks

wquiles said:


> Where do you get/buy this "neat" tooling material?


 
$1. 50/# at the local metals scrapyard. He had only 100# of Mic-6 but I also bought 300# of round, square & rectangular stock.


----------



## wquiles

precisionworks said:


> $1. 50/# at the local metals scrapyard.



I need to find me a place like that here in Dallas area


----------



## precisionworks

The cost of Mic-6 plate at the recycler is 1/4 the price of either the online sellers or my regular metals supplier. Because it is continuous cast there are no residual stresses. Milling & drilling are not difficult but tapping is a bear. The best former I've used is the Balance BX-Cast.


----------



## wquiles

I love my Metabo angle grinder !!!


For the ER40 collet on my knee-mill, I have been using a very large mouth Crescent wrench, but the setup was less than ideal, and the mouth keep moving, so I had to open it up everytime I picked it, etc... After doing this for 8-10 months, I tried to find locally a cheap wrench, but nothing big enough. So I bought this cheap wrench (like $8-9) at Northerm tool (finally one close by that opened 4-6 months ago), with the idea of grinding it somewhat to fit the collar on my ER40 collet. But, the wrench is HUGE, so I decided to trim it, with the help of my Metabo grinder (thanks Barry!).

It needed to be around 40-41mm wide, mine is about 42 and 1/2mm or so:










After a very easy couple of minutes:











Here it is, next to my old wrench:











Since the end of the wrench is slippery, specially after working around machinery, I decided to coat the end of it:






This is after the first heavy coat (3x back to back immersions):











And after it dried up, 4-5 hours later:






This is after the second heavy coat (3x back to back immersions):






And after it dried up, 4-5 hours later:







The second project where I used my Metabo grinder was to cut/trim a fully hardened steel knife (RC 61-62). Here it is "before":






So here I started:











Even the hardened steel was no match:






I have been using my "trow away" restored vise a lot since I finished its restoration:






and for those interested, here (on top) is the final "shorty" version of the Spyderco Mule (MT11 - M390 steel):






Will


----------



## darkzero

I'm also a fan of PlastiDip, moreso the stuff that comes in the can & not the spray. Dipping provides a much better & thicker coating. I've coated numerous of tools & surprising the coating held up very well in the auto/race shop. My can always dries up before I can use it all though. 

Although it looks like you've already got it covered, Armstrong & Proto make very nice large single ended opened end wrenches. Not sure if Enco carries them, I got my Armstrong wrench that I use for my tool post from MSC. I like using this wrench much more than a combination wrench or ratchet with a socket.







BTW, nice rework on that Spyderco.


----------



## precisionworks

> So I bought this cheap wrench ... with the idea of grinding it somewhat to fit the collar on my ER40 collet.


I also started with an inexpensive combination wrench but used a solid carbide end mill ... not as good a method to use. Even the cheap wrenches are sometimes very hard & it took forever to open it up. I would grind the next one :devil:

Although PlastiDip is used for some handles in my shop I wanted a thicker & more cushioned handle on the collet wrench. I welded a piece of 1/8" mild steel on each side of the rear of the handle & then wrapped that with Rubber Splicing Tape. 
















That material is really durable & lasts a long time. Mine came from Ace Hardware.


----------



## wquiles

darkzero said:


> I'm also a fan of PlastiDip, moreso the stuff that comes in the can & not the spray. Dipping provides a much better & thicker coating. I've coated numerous of tools & surprising the coating held up very well in the auto/race shop. My can always dries up before I can use it all though.


Thanks for the heads-up on the spray version. I actually bought one can which I plan to use to give a light coating to my soft-jaws on my restored Wilson vise 





darkzero said:


> BTW, nice rework on that Spyderco.


Thanks much. It is not "pretty", but the shorty version feels MUCH better in the hand, and a lot more balanced (still a little bit handle heavy). Usually short handled knives have a smallish blade size, but my shorty Mule has a shorty handle and a relatively big blade - nice combo. I should have started this project before putting handles, I would had picked a different handle material, maybe use mosaic pins instead of the screws, etc., but honestly the idea came to me "after" I had expoxied the handles in place 





precisionworks said:


> I also started with an inexpensive combination wrench but used a solid carbide end mill ... not as good a method to use. Even the cheap wrenches are sometimes very hard & it took forever to open it up. I would grind the next one :devil:


That was exactly my first idea as well - to use a carbide end mill, but after I though it through some more, including how to hold the wrench securely, etc., I figured grinding it would be much easier and safer - and sure enough, it was slow, but easy to do. Now after the PlastiDip, the wrench is a welcome addition to my tool box 


Will


----------



## Clark

TranquillityBase said:


> Best flashlight accessory, bar none...A "must have" shop tool
> 
> NiteIze Fiber Optic Adapter



I take mine on vacation with me.


----------



## wquiles

OK, bumping a GREAT thread with my latest, super useful tool, not only for the machining area of my "shop", but also for my electronics bench.

Most of us have a cheap set of loupes, typically a 2x, a 4 or 5x, and a 10x. I have tried for a couple of years to use the 10x for close up work, but I always felt it was crap. Thanks to one of my threads in the Spyderco forum, I learned about this little beauty from Europe - the Belomo Triplet 10x loupe:






Without exaggeration, it is literally a night and day difference between the image and clarity on the Belomo and the 10x "cheap" one from the kit, and even compared to a more fancy 10x one that I got at a coin collector's store (which was supposed to be a more premium unit). This thing is awesome and a true joy to use


----------



## precisionworks

My shop gets darker with each passing year (no way my eyes need more light). Shop lighting is upgraded as needed & more task lighting is used than ever before. Every machine has a mag base light & sometimes two but the lathe didn't need one ... until I started groove mods on the SWM V10R. The light is a 1xCR123 & the details are pretty small. IMO the two critical details are the 90° on the face of the ridge & the 135° bevel on the back side (orange arrows below):







If the tip of the insert is stopped short of either feature the end result looks pretty awful. In addition to those details being small sized the tube is covered in a film of vegetable based oil from the Accu-Lube which hides small features. Googled around & found that most of the lights that looked good were $120+ and my budget was $50. Enco surprisingly had nothing on sale. Finally ran across this:






Seller was Windy City Liquidation, not a confidence inspiring name but the price was $60 delivered. The light arrived a few days later, very well packed & brand new. Problem now is that most small lathes have few areas for a mag base - so I made one (see orange arrow above). Mild steel plate from the scrap pile is installed with pop rivets. It may be in the way when the 3-jaw or 4-jaw goes on but it's easy enough to trim. And I can once again see 

This is where the light came from: Electrix light closeouts.


----------



## Kestrel

precisionworks said:


> Perhaps the moderators will sticky this, as it should be a really useful thread.



Well, better late than never? 



wquiles said:


> Most of us have a cheap set of loupes, typically a 2x, a 4 or 5x, and a 10x. I have tried for a couple of years to use the 10x for close up work, but I always felt it was crap. Thanks to one of my threads in the Spyderco forum, I learned about this little beauty from Europe - the Belomo Triplet 10x loupe:
> 
> Without exaggeration, it is literally a night and day difference between the image and clarity on the Belomo and the 10x "cheap" one from the kit, and even compared to a more fancy 10x one that I got at a coin collector's store (which was supposed to be a more premium unit). This thing is awesome and a true joy to use



Thanks for posting this, Mrs. K uses an el-cheapo one of these for one of her hobbies and it sounds like it's time for an upgrade.


----------



## wquiles

Kestrel said:


> Well, better late than never?


Thanks much 




Kestrel said:


> Thanks for posting this, Mrs. K uses an el-cheapo one of these for one of her hobbies and it sounds like it's time for an upgrade.


You are definitely going to get brownie points with the Mrs as these are truly much, much clearer. Details are so much easier to see with this Belomo it is incredible.

Be sure to use a drop of very light lubricant on the swing-out hinge so that it is not as stiff to open/close. I use nano oil #10 weight, but anything similar will work well 

Will


----------



## PEU

I just looked for it at amazon, interesting this comment in the first review:



> I bought this loupe to replace a Bausch and Lomb Hastings triplet 10x loupe that I lost. *Although this loupe cost $13* (compared to $45 for the B&L) I like this one better. It has a much larger viewing area and is just as clear.



Now its $40...


Pablo


----------



## wquiles

PEU said:


> Now its $40...



Yes, as more and more have found out how clear the image is, the price of the Belomo's have continued to go up (unfortunately). You still get your money's worth


----------



## precisionworks

The BelOMO Hastings triplet runs around $40 & is rated by many as the best overall value. Bausch & Lomb makes a very similar Hastings triplet for about the same price.

Zeiss & Nikon make superb models for around $100. Top dog in this arena is the Original Schneider Loupe 10x. I never had $260 to spare but my jeweler has one that I am allowed to drool over


----------



## BVH

I bought a 3-piece set from Ebay - 10, 20 and 30x. I use the 30 a lot - use it to initially establish that my tool holders and cutting inserts are vertically aligned with the tailstock dead center. The images are obviously not very good but it works. Is there a reason no one who has the Belomo 20x? and if not, do you not have a need for more magnification and the 10x suffices? I see the 20x Belomo is obtainable for $32.00.


----------



## wquiles

BVH said:


> I bought a 3-piece set from Ebay - 10, 20 and 30x. I use the 30 a lot - use it to initially establish that my tool holders and cutting inserts are vertically aligned with the tailstock dead center. The images are obviously not very good but it works. Is there a reason no one who has the Belomo 20x? and if not, do you not have a need for more magnification and the 10x suffices? I see the 20x Belomo is obtainable for $32.00.



If you go and read the various reviews on the Belomo 10x, you will find that most folks say that the 10x is so darn clear that there is no need to deal with the 12x, 15x, or higher magnifications since those are (naturally) darker and also have an even shallower depth of view. The "one" to get is the 10x 

Will


----------



## precisionworks

BVH said:


> Is there a reason no one who has the Belomo 20x?


A 10X Hastings triplet already has a pretty small FOV (field of view) and a focusing distance of 1" (25.4mm). At 20X the FOV is cut in half and the focusing distance also halved. 

The second issue is distortion or correction of the image. At 10X this is hardly noticeable to most users of a Hastings triplet. At 20X it can be irritating to some users & the cost of correction (for chromatic aberration, fringing, distortion, etc.) can be steep. One of the best 20X magnifiers is the Eschenbach 1184-20 ... just under $200 on Amazon 

Click here & don't worry about the price :nana:


----------



## PEU

Cool video showing how to use bearing skates and a car jack to move heavy machinery:




Pablo


----------



## tino_ale

wquiles said:


> If you go and read the various reviews on the Belomo 10x, you will find that most folks say that the 10x is so darn clear that there is no need to deal with the 12x, 15x, or higher magnifications since those are (naturally) darker and also have an even shallower depth of view. The "one" to get is the 10x
> 
> Will


I'm not sure what you guys are using the magnifier for but I have the Belomo 10x too and it's already more than enough! Wouldn't bother with more than that. DOF can be an issue too.


----------



## precisionworks

> I'm not sure what you guys are using the magnifier for but I have the Belomo 10x too and it's already more than enough! Wouldn't bother with more than that. DOF can be an issue too.


10X is enough for most work but more magnification (or younger eyes) may be needed to see really tiny details. The chart below compares different magnifications:






My OptiVisor has the 10-diopter lens (3.5X) when used alone. Swing down the OptiLoupe and the magnification is 8.75X. Not nearly enough for me to inspect the .0625" (1.59mm) end mills used used to mill trit slots. Either a 2X or a 4X magnifier, placed between the work & the OptiVisor, gives 17.5X or 35X.

17.5X is sometimes enough if the lighting is just right. These are 4-flute tools & it's tough to pick up the tiny edge details that determine if the tool is good for another go.

Both my welding helmets have an OptiVisor lens plate attached to the inside of the viewing window. For in-shop welding a 2.5X plate is used. For portable welding a 2.0X plate gives less magnification but wider field of view:


----------



## Kestrel

wquiles said:


> You are definitely going to get brownie points with the Mrs as these are truly much, much clearer. Details are so much easier to see with this Belomo it is incredible.



Thanks for all the info, I just ordered one of those Belomo 10x loupes this morning.

(BTW, I found a considerably better price than what's posted on Amazon, anyone who's going to order one, please feel free to PM me first for more info.)

Edit: There is a pretty good overview on loupes here:
How to choose a loupe or magnifier

Regards,


----------



## Kestrel

So did anybody else end up purchasing one of those Belomo loupes?

I bought a pair of them and I'm impressed, as well as the resident microscopist / optics nut here at work. Excellent optics, very substantial in feel, and a teriffic bargain @ $55 for two of them including shipping. Another doodad to keep in my briefcase, it's already come in handy at work. Thanks again for the recommendation. :thumbsup:


----------



## wquiles

Kestrel said:


> So did anybody else end up purchasing one of those Belomo loupes?
> 
> I bought a pair of them and I'm impressed, as well as the resident microscopist / optics nut here at work. Excellent optics, very substantial in feel, and a teriffic bargain @ $55 for two of them including shipping. Another doodad to keep in my briefcase, it's already come in handy at work. Thanks again for the recommendation. :thumbsup:



I have two as well (one in my office, one in my "shop"), but you got a better price than I did


----------



## BVH

I bought the 10 and 20x's and am very happy with both.


----------



## precisionworks

If you often use a 5C collet chuck you may want to pick up a set of internal expanding collets. My 5C chuck stays on the spindle about 3/4 of the time and sees lots of use so the internal expanders were a natural fit. Shown below holding a SWM Ti Extender:






Look closely at the image above & just visible is the allen head screw that is drawn into the split collet when the chuck wrench is tightened. For this short part only half the length of the collet was machined away & the back half (nearest the chuck) is still at the full 1" (25.4mm) diameter. The collets are turned to fit each job & eventually they are used up.

Another view:






If the collet is carefully preloaded & machined for an almost size on size fit the TIR is about .0001"-.0002" (.0025mm-.0050mm). These are USA made & sold on eBay by Breakhart Tool Co


----------



## precisionworks

Metal shelf provides place to hang mag base upside down. Lots of room to work around the chuck.


----------



## precisionworks

Close view.


----------



## precisionworks

This is the fastest & easiest way I've found to set the QCTP at 90° to the chuck & almost exactly parallel to the bed. Really useful when boring a hole that's the minimum diameter for the bar being used. Loosen the QCTP bolt so it rotates freely, place a 1-2-3 block against a piece of round stock that is freshly faced off and move the carriage forward until the QCTP is in full contact with the 1-2-3 block. 

I've checked this method by traversing an indicator along the length of a boring bar & it's more than close enough for everything I do. Bar will likely still be out of square by .005"-.010" over 6" but that's about as small as a pimple on a elephant's butt.


----------



## darkzero

precisionworks said:


> Metal shelf provides place to hang mag base upside down. Lots of room to work around the chuck.





I like that Barry!


----------



## ICUDoc

precisionworks said:


> This is the fastest & easiest way I've found to set the QCTP at 90° to the chuck & almost exactly parallel to the bed. Really useful when boring a hole that's the minimum diameter for the bar being used. Loosen the QCTP bolt so it rotates freely, place a 1-2-3 block against a piece of round stock that is freshly faced off and move the carriage forward until the QCTP is in full contact with the 1-2-3 block.
> 
> I've checked this method by traversing an indicator along the length of a boring bar & it's more than close enough for everything I do. Bar will likely still be out of square by .005"-.010" over 6" but that's about as small as a pimple on a elephant's butt.


Barry that is AWESOME! So quick and elegant- I'm going to go try it right now!!
Thanks!
EDIT: Ooops and I like the steel shelf too- light over / mag base under: nice use of space...


----------



## precisionworks

Thanks Will & David 

Wanted to endorse a product I've used for the past few months - an aerosol grease called Fluid Film. Made from processed wool wax (lanolin). So far it's the best grease I've tried for the three jaw chuck scroll & jaws.

http://www.fluid-film.com/


----------



## archer6817j

Darn this thread! I just bought a Belomo Triplet 10x loupe:


----------



## precisionworks

Needed an industrial strength paper towel holder & found a small flat piece & some 3/4" pipe in the scrap pile. Tack welded the pipe to the plate in three places with the TIG torch:


----------



## precisionworks

Slipped the roll over the pipe:


----------



## precisionworks

And screwed a Tee on the end to retain the roll:






Cost ... about 10 minutes.

Value ... priceless


----------



## PhotonFanatic

Can't wait to see the TP holder.


----------



## darkzero

PhotonFanatic said:


> Can't wait to see the TP holder.



Auto mechanics use red rags or blue towels to wipe themselves oily fresh clean. What do machinists use, WypAlls?


----------



## precisionworks

Not sure how many machinists cover up the lathe (or any other oily machine) but mine is either in use or it's covered. 
In addition to OCD crackup the cover keeps airborne dust & grit from settling on the ways. After every job & sometimes during a lengthy job the ways are re oiled. Without a cover they will attract & hold stuff that can shorten the life of the bed. 

The cover is made by HTC Products & it was purchased during the 1980's. Shows no wear at all, pretty amazing because it has been folded (when the lathe is in use) & unfolded (to cover the lathe) around a million times. If $25 or $30 is too much to spend there are any number of other covers that can work, something like an old bed sheet is better than nothing.

http://www.htcproductsinc.com/tsmc.html

The HTC ToolSaver has rubberized magnets sewn into each corner & the magnets are as weak as convenience store coffee. IMO a better solution for keeping the cover in place is the use of a few "blueprint magnets" (ceramic magnets in a steel cover with handle). McMaster has them for about $5 each.


----------



## darkzero

BBQ grill covers found at the local big box stores work great too. Probably not available for 13x & larger machines though. I just use old beach towels as they are on their way to getting thrown out.


----------



## wquiles

I use bed sheets once my wife decides they don't look nice enough, which means they are "perfect" for covering greasy machinery 

Will


----------



## kuksul08

precisionworks said:


> This is the fastest & easiest way I've found to set the QCTP at 90° to the chuck & almost exactly parallel to the bed. Really useful when boring a hole that's the minimum diameter for the bar being used. Loosen the QCTP bolt so it rotates freely, place a 1-2-3 block against a piece of round stock that is freshly faced off and move the carriage forward until the QCTP is in full contact with the 1-2-3 block.
> 
> I've checked this method by traversing an indicator along the length of a boring bar & it's more than close enough for everything I do. Bar will likely still be out of square by .005"-.010" over 6" but that's about as small as a pimple on a elephant's butt.



In the past I have run the qctp up against the face of the chuck in between the jaws, seems to work okay. The issue I have is when you tighten down the top nut, it tends to rotate the qctp, so you can't make it too tight.


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## archer6817j

I've never checked the accuracy of this method, but I normally extend the quill of the tailstock and bump the qctp (with tool) up against the quill. However, about 90% of the time ill just eyeball it


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## darkzero

kuksul08 said:


> The issue I have is when you tighten down the top nut, it tends to rotate the qctp, so you can't make it too tight.



Try applying a light coat of way oil under the nut or check if you have excessive oil or grease under the TP. My TP never moves no matter how light or hard I crank down on the nut. Even my China TP on my old lathe never moved when tightening the nut & it did not even use a flange nut & washer.


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## precisionworks

kuksul08 said:


> when you tighten down the top nut, it tends to rotate the qctp, so you can't make it too tight.


I'd bet a Diet Pepsi that your T-nut is a thou or two higher than the cross slide.


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## tino_ale

I don't think this has been shared before but I stumbled on an iPhone application called iEngineer and I think it's worth considering.
Had to pay for the Metric screws (you shouldn't need it, the US screws are free) but I think it's a good companion for drilling taping torquing etc.
The app itself is pretty neat IMO.


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## darkzero

Here's a simple & easy one that costs just about nothing. Whenever I part something that has a through hole, this is how I catch it.


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## wquiles

Good one - I like it a lot


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## PhotonFanatic

What's wrong with using a finger? Wuss. :devil:


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## archer6817j

darkzero said:


> Here's a simple & easy one that costs just about nothing. Whenever I part something that has a through hole, this is how I catch it.



Why do that when you can spend 15 minutes sifting through a pan full of razor sharp chips to find your part?


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## StrikerDown

PhotonFanatic said:


> What's wrong with using a finger? Wuss. :devil:



You beat me to it!  :devil:


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## darkzero

Haha! You should see how I catch it with my hand when there is _no hole_! :devil:


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## darkzero

Posting in this thread today reminded me of Barry's post about covering the lathe. Today while I was at HF I picked up one of the smaller & thinner movers blankets to replace the old raggedy beach towel that I use. Not bad for $4.07 OTD.


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## StrikerDown

Good idea Will, But what keeps your mill warm at night? :thumbsup:


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## darkzero

StrikerDown said:


> Good idea Will, But what keeps your mill warm at night? :thumbsup:



:laughing:

I only cover the lathe for the same reason Barry stated, to keep dust & other debris off the ways. Hate when I oil the ways after use, then all kinds off crap settles on it & I have to wipe it off then re-oil again before using.


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## MartinDWhite

There are lots of good tips in here


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## gadget_lover

I don't recall where I saw this mentioned; forgive me if it's already in this thread;


I present a 1904 version of this thread. A book titled "Shop Kinks" by robert Grimshaw. The link will bring you to a page that includes a PDF , plain text, online (a well done reader) or kindle. http://openlibrary.org/books/OL7055765M/Shop_kinks_...

The terms are sometimes archaic, but with a bit of puzzling you can figure them out. The "ring doctor" mentioned on page 38 in the paragraph "To take a Hog cut" appears to be in fact a steady rest. 

There is a lot of wisdom sprinkled around too. For instance, he talks the need for a large tool holder. His justification for demanding a 1 inch shank was simple; it dispersed heat better. Overheating was a major problems when using steel bits in the late 1800s. 

I have not read the whole thing, but I'm enjoying the read.

Daniel


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## Th232

And now for something completely different...


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## Tekno_Cowboy

It's been a while since I checked in, but here are some words of wisdom gleaned from my seasoned coworkers, and a few of my own.

-Shop the scrapyards and scrap bins of local CNC shops for material. The cost is usually the going rate for scrap.
-Ask around at your local CNC shops and see if you can browse through their scrap tooling. You can usually get inserts and drills that are still very useful in a hobby setup that are useless for a CNC setup. That goes double for shops that don't re-sharpen drills and mills. Many shops will give this away, or sell it cheap.
-Commercial egg cartons are supremely useful. Uline sells them here http://www.uline.com/BL_1907/Egg-Filler-Flats
-Iscar Picco tools are very handy. They come in a variety of styles, and are fairly easy to make a holder for.
-A good set of stones if invaluable. I use boride edm stones daily at work. I highly recommend the T2 variety for steel.
-Scotchbrite, Scotchbrite wheels, and cratex will fix most minor defects, such as chatter, clamping scuffs, and small steps.
-Don't waste money on cheap measurement tools. You get what you pay for.
-Check estate sales and craigslist for old machinist toolboxes. I got an original run Kennedy toolbox with about $1500 in tools for $300.
-Always check under the drawers when you buy a used toolbox. You never know what you might find. I found over $5600 in that $300 toolbox  (and about 1000 allen wrenches)


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## precisionworks

Got this today from one of my tooling distributors. Surprisingly good.

http://www.cutting-tool-supply.com/TechTips/Index.htm


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## erehwyrevekool

Thanks Barry, very interesting! :thumbsup:


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## wquiles

erehwyrevekool said:


> Thanks Barry, very interesting! :thumbsup:



+1


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## Nitroz

Well I finally retired my cheap third hand. I had planned on building a loc-line third hand, and then I bought this because of the price.(Picture below) To me it seems like a good deal considering what you get.

I paid $49 shipped. I will add more about the quality when I receive it.


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## wquiles

Wow, that looks like it would be very helpful. I love having that 3rd (and sometimes, 4th) hand available


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## Nitroz

I received the 4th hand tool and must say that I really like it! Here's some pictures.

Metal threads embedded in the concrete.




Holds things nice and snug!




Surefire C2 for size reference.




I also picked this up to replace the old soldering sponge. This is so much better!


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## darkzero

precisionworks said:


>



I purchased a few of these last year. Amazon has great prices on them. I'll throw them on if I know I won't be using a machine for a few days but mostly to keep dust of freshly oiled surfaces & but use them mostly when I need to protect them from grinding, sanding, overspray, etc. They really work great & I ditched that moving blanket, much more breathable but humidity isn't an issue here. Luckily the small one I had for my old bandsaw is still big enough of my new bandsaw.

Thanks Barry.


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## RedLED

precisionworks said:


> 10X is enough for most work but more magnification (or younger eyes) may be needed to see really tiny details. The chart below compares different magnifications:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My OptiVisor has the 10-diopter lens (3.5X) when used alone. Swing down the OptiLoupe and the magnification is 8.75X. Not nearly enough for me to inspect the .0625" (1.59mm) end mills used used to mill trit slots. Either a 2X or a 4X magnifier, placed between the work & the OptiVisor, gives 17.5X or 35X.
> 
> 17.5X is sometimes enough if the lighting is just right. These are 4-flute tools & it's tough to pick up the tiny edge details that determine if the tool is good for another go.
> 
> Both my welding helmets have an OptiVisor lens plate attached to the inside of the viewing window. For in-shop welding a 2.5X plate is used. For portable welding a 2.0X plate gives less magnification but wider field of view:


For 25 years, I have been looking thru some kind of lens, and I can say the Nikon 10X Loupe is just wonderful! I also have a $500 Schneider loupe which is just perfect. Also, for reading Nikon makes wonderful magnifying glasses. I have all of them around the studio, shop, briefcase and house so I can pick up one in a second. 

The Belomo, is from the former Soviet Union, stick with Japanese or German glass.

When it comes to optics and critical work, be it photography or machine work, always go with the best in glass.

To test a loupe or any lens, look at the edges and the sharper they are the better the glass. 

Hope this is some help.

Best,

NR

PS...if you want a nice crystal clear loupe for next to nothing, go to an old camera store, and find an old Nikon or any high quality manual 50mm lens, and use it backwards. You put it to your eye like ant loupe and bring the item up to you, or keeping it at your eye, go down to the item. Even with all the fancy loupes I have placed around my work areas, on my desk I still have the old Nikkor Nikon 50mm 1.4 I started with as a photographer. 

It it makes a first class loupe, and old camera stores must have tons of these. Don't get an auto Focus one, manual only. I say Nikon because if you can find one from the 70's, Nikon made the best glass back then. Try for a 1.4 from the 1970's last one I bought was $20.00.


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## dualsub

Thanks for these tips, can't wait to try one of these one day!


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