# How many lumen for a indoor weapon light?



## Eagles1181 (Aug 18, 2015)

Hey guys, looking at mounting a light on a home defense shotgun. Want something bright enough to light up a room, but not going to blind myself if I accidently shine it at a wall. 

Is 500 lumens enough? To many?

Looking at the Olight M18 maverick specifically, but open to other options. Thanks.

Again this light (and the shotgun it is on) are for home defense, (wake up because the burglar alarm is going off type thing). 

Eagle


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## OnlyownEnergizer250lumen (Aug 18, 2015)

I'm also looking for something for this use (but a bit more passively.) I guess I'd mount it to a potato or something and beam it at them LOL. I'm quite into the Nitecore MH20, or the Fenix TK16. Have a look at both.


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## WarRaven (Aug 18, 2015)

Not to derail more then I normally do, but the MH20 is only sprung at one end, I think weapon lights are sprung at both ends. 
Just saying.


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## Lumencrazy (Aug 18, 2015)

Eagles1181 said:


> Hey guys, looking at mounting a light on a home defense shotgun. Want something bright enough to light up a room, but not going to blind myself if I accidently shine it at a wall.
> 
> Is 500 lumens enough? To many?
> 
> ...



The pros have been using weaons lights from 150 to around 200 lumens for years. And they still do. In the middle of the night in a dark room, after you eyes have completely adjusted to the dark (up to 30 min.) try turning on a 500 lumen flashlight and pay attention just how blinding it is to your own eyes. Then when you turn it off you will realize that you have lost all of your prior night vision. At a certain level you can blind your adversary. Above that you just start bleaching away your own retinas, taking away your own ability to see in the dark. More is not always better. This is where a tactical strobe works well. It functions somewhat like Pulse Width Modulation where the strobe allows you to run at a higher output with less strain on the eye. I am refering to a light that has instant strobe. These two-three-click or click and hold strobe features are for armchair collectors.


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## Grizzman (Aug 18, 2015)

Olight lists a pressure switch in the options section, so they seem to think it's weapon-rated. Having said that, 12 gauge 00 buckshot loads are supremely unfriendly towards lights.

Whether any lumen count is adequate or overkill depends entirely on how those photons are spread out. For shotty-mounted HD duty, a floody beam is your friend. This is typically accomplished via a large XM-L2 emitter and an orange peel (or light orange peel...LOP) reflector. Alternatively, optics designed for floody output are also useful, as offered by Elzetta.

Mounted on my HD shotty is a Surefire 6P with a 280 lumen Malkoff M61N sitting behind a frosted lens from flashlightlens.com (sourced from Oveready). It lights up a room very well, and the 4000K tint is less obnoxious bounced off light colored walls than 6500K cool.

I've actually never walked my house with strobe. I may do that this weekend with a FourSevens QT2L-X to see how well I can see.


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## Lumencrazy (Aug 18, 2015)

Grizzman said:


> Olight lists a pressure switch in the options section, so they seem to think it's weapon-rated. Having said that, 12 gauge 00 buckshot loads are supremely unfriendly towards lights.
> 
> Whether any lumen count is adequate or overkill depends entirely on how those photons are spread out. For shotty-mounted HD duty, a floody beam is your friend. This is typically accomplished via a large XM-L2 emitter and an orange peel (or light orange peel...LOP) reflector. Alternatively, optics designed for floody output are also useful, as offered by Elzetta.
> 
> ...



When I mentioned strobe I was referring to situations where the light is turned on temporarily and then off after the shot is made. Constant light will no doubt give better illumination. When using strobe somewhere between 15-18 thousand hertz has been shown to be optimal.


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## cland72 (Aug 18, 2015)

IMO, you'd be best served with a Surefire G2X Tactical. One mode, 2 hours of runtime, and 320 lumens of nicely dispersed light - it is stupid, simple, and perfect for a weapon. It makes an excellent weaponlight, and is only $50 online. Made in USA, lifetime warranty if something does go wrong. Lithium primary CR123 batteries in it mean the batteries will be ready to go for 10 years.


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## Eagles1181 (Aug 18, 2015)

cland72 said:


> IMO, you'd be best served with a Surefire G2X Tactical. One mode, 2 hours of runtime, and 320 lumens of nicely dispersed light - it is stupid, simple, and perfect for a weapon. It makes an excellent weaponlight, and is only $50 online. Made in USA, lifetime warranty if something does go wrong. Lithium primary CR123 batteries in it mean the batteries will be ready to go for 10 years.



Thanks for the advice. I will look into that one. Do you have a particular website you recommend?

Thanks.

Eagle


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## Eagles1181 (Aug 18, 2015)

Lumencrazy said:


> The pros have been using weaons lights from 150 to around 200 lumens for years. And they still do. In the middle of the night in a dark room, after you eyes have completely adjusted to the dark (up to 30 min.) try turning on a 500 lumen flashlight and pay attention just how blinding it is to your own eyes. Then when you turn it off you will realize that you have lost all of your prior night vision. At a certain level you can blind your adversary. Above that you just start bleaching away your own retinas, taking away your own ability to see in the dark. More is not always better. This is where a tactical strobe works well. It functions somewhat like Pulse Width Modulation where the strobe allows you to run at a higher output with less strain on the eye. I am refering to a light that has instant strobe. These two-three-click or click and hold strobe features are for armchair collectors.



Thank you. That is the information I have been looking for. I knew there was a point of to much light, but was not sure what it was (hence the question). Do you know of a light that has the ability to do instant strobe, everything I have seen starts in constant and then you have to manipulate to get to strobe.

Eagle


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## cland72 (Aug 18, 2015)

Eagles1181 said:


> Thanks for the advice. I will look into that one. Do you have a particular website you recommend?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Eagle



You're welcome. I find the best prices, in my experience, are usually from eBay sellers. Find one that has it for around $50 shipped, and that's about the best deal you'll find. Just make sure they have at least a 4 digit feedback number, and 99% or better, and you should be fine. 

I just did a quick search, and I think if you go to eBay and search for item 361341708189, you'll be well taken care of.


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## Search (Aug 18, 2015)

I've used everything from a 120 lumen to 500 lumen weapon light to clear buildings, a few factorys, and the occasional wooded area. 

Used to stand behind the 200 lumen max rule due to fear of white walling myself. 

Bought an X300 Ultra and can tell you that I have changed the max number I used to go by. I have used the 500 lumens in all of the above situations and csn tell you that it performed flawlessly. I never once had any backwash of light that deterred me. In fact, having that extra light was very useful when you are under stress. You tend to do a very bad job of not noticing things and having that extra light made it so much easier. 

We had to clear a pretty large factory a few times as training and it performed as you would want. It have me the ability to reach everything comfortably but not enough to have a negative effect.

I did use a 1200 lumen light in my room last night and cussed myself. So that's probably too much 

To wrap this post up: 200 is fine. 500 is fine. I prefer thr higher number now. Either will serve you well.. just get a dependable light. A screwed up light is 0 lumens despite what it's pretty box says.

Source: been there done that .. I'm on my cell and auto correct is a joke. Ignore my spelling.


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## xyadam (Aug 18, 2015)

The question is not how many lumens, but rather how many candelas. And the answer is more than 6-7000, if you want to go for sure, then >10000.
You want to use use a focused beam to blind the bad guys, making them unable to look into your direction. Surefire makes some nice weapon lights, but if you want some budget solution, you can go for Nitecore as well, they have we several 13000+ candela tactical lights with mounts for only 50-70$.


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## cland72 (Aug 18, 2015)

I always looked at a weapon light as a tool of awareness when speaking in terms of home defense. If you're in a typical home, you don't need a lot of candela to blind an attacker. Heck, I remember reading that a minimum of 60 lumens was needed to temporarily blind an assailant. If that is true, nearly any decent light will do. I would rather have a floody beam in my house than a narrow beam.


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## Search (Aug 18, 2015)

xyadam said:


> The question is not how many lumens, but rather how many candelas. And the answer is more than 6-7000, if you want to go for sure, then >10000.
> You want to use use a focused beam to blind the bad guys, making them unable to look into your direction. Surefire makes some nice weapon lights, but if you want some budget solution, you can go for Nitecore as well, they have we several 13000+ candela tactical lights with mounts for only 50-70$.



What.. It's been so long since I've heard candela used I've actually forgot how to translate any of that.



cland72 said:


> I always looked at a weapon light as a tool of awareness when speaking in terms of home defense. If you're in a typical home, you don't need a lot of candela to blind an attacker. Heck, I remember reading that a minimum of 60 lumens was needed to temporarily blind an assailant. If that is true, nearly any decent light will do. I would rather have a floody beam in my house than a narrow beam.



I agree. My previous post wasn't to say that you NEED 500 lumens. I'm basing that off my use of the X300 Ultra. I'm saying that I used/use it and have not have any negative effect.

Could I have done the same thing with less? Yes.


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## cland72 (Aug 18, 2015)

Search said:


> What.. It's been so long since I've heard candela used I've actually forgot how to translate any of that.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I was responding to xyadam since he advocated a minimum candela figure which, IMO, isn't as important and flood and lumens. In fact, it goes to show you that a 500 lumen X300U is probably more useful than a 200 lumen TIR beam from a scout light or LX2, for example. It isn't about candela, beam profile, or lumens alone - it is a happy combination of the three.


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## Search (Aug 18, 2015)

cland72 said:


> I was responding to xyadam since he advocated a minimum candela figure which, IMO, isn't as important and flood and lumens. In fact, it goes to show you that a 500 lumen X300U is probably more useful than a 200 lumen TIR beam from a scout light or LX2, for example. It isn't about candela, beam profile, or lumens alone - it is a happy combination of the three.



Oh I know I was just agreeing with your point :thumbsup:


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## Str8stroke (Aug 18, 2015)

In my house, I find 200 lumen Surefire light is more than ample. I always have a flame thrower in arms reach. No pun intended. I find if I get too far past 300 or so lumen I have too much bounce. I want to light the perp, not the whole room. I have 200 lumen heads on Scout lights or 860 pump forends. 

Don't think 200 or 300 is bright enough for your mansion? At night, once your eyes are adapted, have a friend blast you from across the room/parlor with 200 or 300 lumen when you are not expecting it. This test should be a real eye closer. 

I also don't want to blind my big scary dog that is gonna be heading towards the unlucky criminal. Truth is, with the dogs I don't need much of a light. They are gonna get there first and handle business. Maybe I could put a Picatinny rail on the dogs collars and mount a Scout on them? They would have a Scout by their snout. I am getting carried away. Better stop here.


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## Eagles1181 (Aug 18, 2015)

See, I am looking for something that will light the room, because on occasion I will have to clear a room. (Very not ideal, but if somebody breaks in I have to ensure the kiddo is secure, which means going to get her.) Therefore I want something that will light up the entire room, including the target hiding in the corner. Can anybody suggest a good floody light in the 200 - 300 lumen range that runs on 18650 batteries? 

Eagle


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## Grizzman (Aug 18, 2015)

I performed my FourSevens strobe test earlier this evening, after dark adjusting my eyes. I'd forgotten whether I changed strobe to head tight or loose, and guessed wrong as I bounced it off the light colored wall by the front door. I then shone it into the opposite corner. Even with 750+ lumens, I had no problem focusing on the imaginary perps. This is because it's got a huge hot spot with very bright spill. I've recommended Quark Tactical CR123 lights several times in the past for duty use, but they seem to now be discontinued.

Eagletac and ArmyTek lights are reported to be durable, but as far as I know they have smooth reflectors for intense hot spots, not floody room lighting profiles.

What's your budget? Does it need to have a 1" diameter body to use your intended mount?

The G2X Tactical Cland recommend is an outstanding suggestion. The 6PX Tactical, which has an aluminum body and somewhat higher price tag is also worth considering. It shouldn't be too difficult to locate beamshots of them on youtube.


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## Search (Aug 19, 2015)

Str8stroke said:


> In my house, I find 200 lumen Surefire light is more than ample. I always have a flame thrower in arms reach. No pun intended. I find if I get too far past 300 or so lumen I have too much bounce. I want to light the perp, not the whole room. I have 200 lumen heads on Scout lights or 860 pump forends.
> 
> Don't think 200 or 300 is bright enough for your mansion? At night, once your eyes are adapted, have a friend blast you from across the room/parlor with 200 or 300 lumen when you are not expecting it. This test should be a real eye closer.
> 
> I also don't want to blind my big scary dog that is gonna be heading towards the unlucky criminal. Truth is, with the dogs I don't need much of a light. They are gonna get there first and handle business. Maybe I could put a Picatinny rail on the dogs collars and mount a Scout on them? They would have a Scout by their snout. I am getting carried away. Better stop here.



For whatever reason.. this post made me think of something. All the times I had to use my 500 lumen X300U indoors I was wide awake and on duty. I never really tried this when I was awoken in the middle of the night.

I think in the morning when I wake up for work at 4:30 I'm going to use my E2DLU to try to find the bathroom and see if I change my mind about a very close quarters light.


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## Eagles1181 (Aug 19, 2015)

Grizzman said:


> I performed my FourSevens strobe test earlier this evening, after dark adjusting my eyes. I'd forgotten whether I changed strobe to head tight or loose, and guessed wrong as I bounced it off the light colored wall by the front door. I then shone it into the opposite corner. Even with 750+ lumens, I had no problem focusing on the imaginary perps. This is because it's got a huge hot spot with very bright spill. I've recommended Quark Tactical CR123 lights several times in the past for duty use, but they seem to now be discontinued.
> 
> Eagletac and ArmyTek lights are reported to be durable, but as far as I know they have smooth reflectors for intense hot spots, not floody room lighting profiles.
> 
> ...


I looked at the G2X, and it looks great. My only complaint is that I would like to be able to drop an 18650 battery in then training. 

As far as mounts go, 1 in or 30 mm would be nice, but I don't have a problem putting a shim in there to make it work.

As far as budget, the olight M18 I was looking at is available for $70 with pressure switch and mount. Would like to stay in that range, but certainly willing to go used to get there.


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## cland72 (Aug 19, 2015)

The G2X will fit a 16650 cell just fine. It won't have the capacity of a 18650, but it'll get you guilt free lumens nonetheless.


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## Eagles1181 (Aug 19, 2015)

OK Cland, I think you are bringing me around. Can you recommend a pressure switch, do I need to go Surefire, or are the secondary brands reliable?

Eagle


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## Grizzman (Aug 19, 2015)

Without an operational switch, the light is useless, so I definitely wouldn't go with a bargain solution. While Surefire's XM-0x tailcap and pressure switch used to be priced at around $100 used, they seem to have come down a lot lately. I've got two of the tailcaps in my misc box, and would happily ship one of them to you practically nothing. I've moved away from pressure switch activation, so I definitely don't need two of them. If you posted a WTB thread for the pressure switch in the correct length, you should be able to snag one for a very reasonable price.


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## cland72 (Aug 19, 2015)

Eagles1181 said:


> OK Cland, I think you are bringing me around. Can you recommend a pressure switch, do I need to go Surefire, or are the secondary brands reliable?
> 
> Eagle



I agree with Grizzman in that if you MUST have a pressure switch, go with the Surefire XM tailcap. Do not go with any aftermarket pressure switch/tailcap assembly.

Is your shotgun semi auto or pump? If pump, a pressure switch might not work because of the fore end movement. If semi auto, then you should just mount the light in a position where it is easily accessible with your support hand.

Can you tell I'm not a fan of remote switches? :thumbsup:


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## more_vampires (Aug 19, 2015)

I saw a setup where tac light came on strobe and laser dot lit automatically on draw from a locking retention holster.

Guy wouldn't tell me squat about it. Any thoughts on this setup, cpf? Looked top shelf.


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## Eagles1181 (Aug 19, 2015)

Remington 870 express tactical with Speedfeed furniture. 

Is reliability the main complaint about pressure switches, or is there some other downside that my inexperience is not seeing? 

Thanks.

Eagle


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## Grizzman (Aug 19, 2015)

After taking care of a couple work details, I was going to say basically exactly what Cland just did. 

Back on the subject of lumen count, I woke up at 4:30 with a hardcore thirst, so picked up an E2D LED Ultra off the night stand, stood up, bounced the light (well, the emitted photons, not the light itself) off the hardwood floor at the bedroom/hallway junction. It was so uncomfortable I was basically unable to keep my eyes open. Not cool at all. 

I set down that self-torture device and went to my desk to retrieve a Malkoff MD2. This particular light is outfitted with an M61 with XM-L emitter that outputs approximately 400 lumens, with a very large hot spot, bright spill, and a gradual transition between the two. I stopped at the kitchen for a drink, and by the time I returned to the bedroom, my vision was ready for the next test. This time, I was easily able to floor bounce the light, and didn't even have issue with shining it down the hallway.

Not so much for your benefit as my confirmation, I then picked up an Elzetta Alpha with spot optic. Powered by the IMR 16340, this one easily outputs 400-500 lumens, in an extremely floody profile, with very little difference between spot and spill. I was able to comfortably bounce it directly off a light-colored wall less than 10 feet from me. Even with completely dark adapted eyes, I'm absolutely confident (because I've done it before) that there would be no problem lighting up any room in the house.


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## Grizzman (Aug 19, 2015)

Eagles1181 said:


> Is reliability the main complaint about pressure switches, or is there some other downside that my inexperience is not seeing?



Yes. 

For outdoor usage, snagging the wire on a tree branch or something similar, and ripping the pad off the fore-end can also occur. The XM tailcap does have a dedicated forward clicky switch that works whether the pressure switch is attached or not. This is the only pressure pad setup I'd use.


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## cland72 (Aug 19, 2015)

Grizzman said:


> After taking care of a couple work details, I was going to say basically exactly what Cland just did.
> 
> Back on the subject of lumen count, I woke up at 4:30 with a hardcore thirst, so picked up an E2D LED Ultra off the night stand, stood up, bounced the light (well, the emitted photons, not the light itself) off the hardwood floor at the bedroom/hallway junction. It was so uncomfortable I was basically unable to keep my eyes open. Not cool at all.
> 
> ...



This is why I laugh when I hear people recommend 500 lumen lights for home defense. Granted, beam profile, as you indicated, has a lot to do with it, but I've found my A2-YG to be the perfect nightstand light. The YG LEDs are perfect for navigating in the dark with night adapted eyes. When I need it, the high beam (80 lumens) is EXCELLENT to light up ANYTHING within the confines of my house, and do it with enough lumens to properly identify and engage if necessary. There is no need to have a 500 lumen light, and certainly not a TIR 500 lumen light. I remember when 80 lumens was the minimum tactical standard for disorienting an opponent, and that likely hasn't changed even as technology has evolved and improved. I'm actually currently in a "disagreement" with a user on arfcom about this exact matter.



Grizzman said:


> Yes.
> 
> For outdoor usage, snagging the wire on a tree branch or something similar, and ripping the pad off the fore-end can also occur. The XM tailcap does have a dedicated forward clicky switch that works whether the pressure switch is attached or not. This is the only pressure pad setup I'd use.



+1. The redundancy of operation on the XM tailcap is the sole reason why I would *possibly* consider using a remote switch. It is inevitable that a remote pressure switch will come unglued, get ripped off, snag on gear or the environment, etc. The click aspect of the XM will save your bacon in a scenario like that, but for me, I skip the remote switch altogether.


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## insanefred (Aug 19, 2015)

Lumencrazy said:


> The _*pros have been using*_ weaons lights from 150 to around 200 lumens for years. And they still do. In the middle of the night in a dark room, after you eyes have completely adjusted to the dark (up to 30 min.) try turning on a 500 lumen flashlight and pay attention just how blinding it is to your own eyes. Then when you turn it off you will realize that you have lost all of your prior night vision. At a certain level you can blind your adversary. Above that you just start bleaching away your own retinas, taking away your own ability to see in the dark. More is not always better. This is where a tactical strobe works well. It functions somewhat like Pulse Width Modulation where the strobe allows you to run at a higher output with less strain on the eye. I am refering to a light that has instant strobe. These two-three-click or click and hold strobe features are for armchair collectors.



One thing I learned, just because _*the pros use it*_, doesn't mean it is any good. Pros use certain items because they are either issued to them, they were cheap enough (sometimes through pro discounts) they were recommended by their peers that may not know any better. 

But I do agree to limit the brightness to prevent blinding ones self.


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## reppans (Aug 19, 2015)

Forgive my ignorance as I am much more of a practical (vs tactical) flashlight user, but I do possess a CCW permit and understand the flash-and-dash technique with momentary-on switches. However, the most likely self-defense scenario I can envision is that which the OP describes - investing a bump in the night when woken from sleep in my home.

Is it only me that finds momentary forward clickies, or firearm-mounting pressure switches, set on Max output, to be a liability in such instances? With deeply dark-adapted eyes, especially when woken from sleep, I find even 5 lumens to be searingly painfully bouncing around off white walls and light-colored carpets. I suppose the only way to clear rooms with a tactical momentary UI would be to use it as a constant-on and fry your night vision with hundreds of lumens. I can't imagine using momentary with max output to clear rooms - you'd be stumbling around with a negative imprint of the last room seared on your retinas during the off periods. Also, if there is a perp, he's going to see you coming from 3 stories away, and will retain a huge night vision advantage over you if he manages to surprise you, perhaps clubbing that light away as you round a corner.

My preference for room clearing would be lights that have a single-handed, momentary max from ON function - ie, choose a comfortable low mode to clear rooms, but then have an instant momentary max "switch" to light a perp up, just a car's high beam flasher. For practical purposes, I regularly use this "feature" with a loose/tight bezel work-around (Quarks), or pseudo-momentary (HDS), and it is my all-time favorite UI feature. Also, I understand Surefire 2-stage switches do this, and probably ideally for serious tactical situations, but I have no experience with it. Also have no idea what the pressure switch implications are either.

Anyways, just my $0.02.


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## cland72 (Aug 19, 2015)

reppans said:


> Forgive my ignorance as I am much more of a practical (vs tactical) flashlight user, but I do possess a CCW permit and understand the flash-and-dash technique with momentary-on switches. However, the most likely self-defense scenario I can envision is that which the OP describes - investing a bump in the night when woken from sleep in my home.
> 
> Is it only me that finds momentary forward clickies, or firearm-mounting pressure switches, set on Max output, to be a liability in such instances? With deeply dark-adapted eyes, especially when woken from sleep, I find even 5 lumens to be searingly painfully bouncing around off white walls and light-colored carpets. I suppose the only way to clear rooms with a tactical momentary UI would be to use it as a constant-on and fry your night vision with hundreds of lumens. I can't imagine using momentary with max output to clear rooms - you'd be stumbling around with a negative imprint of the last room seared on your retinas during the off periods. Also, if there is a perp, he's going to see you coming from 3 stories away, and will retain a huge night vision advantage over you if he manages to surprise you, perhaps clubbing that light away as you round a corner.
> 
> ...



This is exactly why I have one of the following lights on my nightstand at any given time: Surefire LX2 or Surefire A2-HA-YG. Low mode is good for dark adapted navigation, but in a split second you can access high mode.

However, for a weaponlight, I think high mode only is still the way to go. For a homeowner, IMO, the "flash and dash" method has merit, but you should know the floorplan/layout of your home enough to where you shouldn't need low light to navigate the hallways and rooms. I have LED night lights on in strategic places around my home (hallways and bathrooms), and leave a lamp on in the living room overnight. This way I don't need to activate my light until I see the threat and am ready to engage. I have enough ambient light to navigate most areas of my home, only needing my LX2/A2 for when I need to walk into the darkest corners of my home.


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## reppans (Aug 19, 2015)

cland72 said:


> ...you should know the floorplan/layout of your home enough to where you shouldn't need low light to navigate the hallways and rooms. I have LED night lights on in strategic places around my home (hallways and bathrooms), and leave a lamp on in the living room overnight. This way I don't need to activate my light until I see the threat and am ready to engage. I have enough ambient light to navigate most areas of my home, only needing my LX2/A2 for when I need to walk into the darkest corners of my home.



Clearing rooms by night vision, ambient moon/starlight, and night lights? I like that idea!


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## DesertNightOwl (Aug 20, 2015)

In my humble opinion less than 150. My TLR-1weight in with 300 lumens is binding when waking from a dead sleep where my Foxfury AWL-P at 140 +/- is much more tolerable. Previously I used a TLR-3 at 125 and it was also much better than the 300 lumens inside.


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## uofaengr (Aug 23, 2015)

I have the Surefire LED forend on an HD Shotgun that is 200 lumens, and I feel this is the sweet spot also having a TLR-1s that is maybe 160ish. More than 200 lumens bouncing off of white walls can be harsh. The Surefire creates a really tight, throwy spot (I think it may use the same head as the LX2 or one really similar) and I like it.


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## RobertM (Aug 25, 2015)

I've done some experimenting with various lights in the middle of the night to see how much light was enough or too much. For the distances I would be shining a weapon light in my house, I felt that 200 lumens was really the max I would really want. 200 is really quite bright when reflecting back at me off white walls down a hallway. Just my personal opinion from my experimenting. YMMV.


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## Bullzeyebill (Aug 25, 2015)

A few days ago, in the middle of the night, I took out my Surefure A2, and turned it on into my living room. With night adapted eyes it was quite bright and all I would need. I think. A2 is listed as 50 lumens, and one tested at 70 lumens in a lab sphere. Incan output is voltage regulated.

Bill

Robert, nice image of an A2.

Bill


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## more_vampires (Aug 26, 2015)

RobertM said:


> I've done some experimenting with various lights in the middle of the night to see how much light was enough or too much. For the distances I would be shining a weapon light in my house, I felt that 200 lumens was really the max I would really want. 200 is really quite bright when reflecting back at me off white walls down a hallway. Just my personal opinion from my experimenting. YMMV.





Bullzeyebill said:


> A few days ago, in the middle of the night, I took out my Surefure A2, and turned it on into my living room. With night adapted eyes it was quite bright and all I would need. I think. A2 is listed as 50 lumens, and one tested at 70 lumens in a lab sphere. Incan output is voltage regulated.


I play with night adapted vision and low lights frequently, as it's one of my main focuses as a flashaholic.

"Indoor Weapon Light" would hold 2 purposes:
1. Navigation
2. Identification and targeting

There would be a third, disorientation, but I feel this is not appropriate indoors. You'll blast yourself.

I love my Oveready/Surefire hybrid, but the thing is just too bright (IMHO) for playing the indoor navigation game. I feel something like a Foursevens low voltage Quark is more appropriate (when properly set) and you've even got a choice of tailcaps, headlamp kit, etc. Good accessory support. Something I did was to hack an extension on the "try me" switch of a coast headlamp. I ran it down my sleeve and had it as a palm switch. The infinitely variable wiper dimming of that light made it easy to set to the appropriate level of that exact time and the exact state of those batteries (as that particular hl did not really regulate, user did that with the variable resistor.) That headlamp was a fantastic low light vampire.

There are training folks who advocate two lights for indoors, one for navigation (A2 would be fine) and one mounted upon the "defensive item."

As mentioned before, you give yourself away with the blasters. You might as well light a road flare and walk around with that. My 55 watt HID is fun and all, but it's probably my LAST choice for house checking.

My 2 pennies, anyway.


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## cland72 (Aug 26, 2015)

Bullzeyebill said:


> A few days ago, in the middle of the night, I took out my Surefure A2, and turned it on into my living room. With night adapted eyes it was quite bright and all I would need. I think. A2 is listed as 50 lumens, and one tested at 70 lumens in a lab sphere. Incan output is voltage regulated.
> 
> Bill
> 
> ...



I've really taken to using my A2-YG as my night stand light. I was using my LX2, but the low mode is too bright for basic navigation with dark adapted eyes. Love that I can use the YG LEDs, and in an instant have a nice, bright (enough) high beam to illuminate an object/threat/whatever.


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## Cato (Aug 26, 2015)

To quote Steve Fisher: "all of them" 

You need lumens to see and identify


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## RobertM (Aug 27, 2015)

Bullzeyebill said:


> Robert, nice image of an A2.
> 
> Bill



Thank you.


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