# clicky vs twisty



## twirky (Feb 18, 2010)

I have a clicky flashlight, a NovaTac EDC 120P, and a twisty flashlight, a Fenix P1D. They've been switching between kechains for a few months now.

I find I greatly prefer the Novatac for its clicky interface. I can turn it on, and to the desired brightness, with one hand. For keychain use this is saying a lot, because the P1D is a bit smaller.

To get the Fenix on requires two hands, and cycling through the entire range sometimes, which includes the strobe settings which are irritating at least. If It's not well-lubricated, it can be really fiddly to switch between settings.

Not a clicky vs twisty issue, but I like how I can set the NovaTac to allow me to turn it on to a dimmer setting before I turn on a really bright one. (and not ruin everyone's night vision. Reagardless of the clicky/button interface this is a key issue for me in the future.

Has anyone felt that their twisty flashglight was a preferable interface to a clicky one? One-handed operation about seals it for me.


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## FlashInThePan (Feb 18, 2010)

I generally prefer clickies as well, but twisties have their place. They're usually smaller, more reliable, and in some cases, can be more functional. Here's why...

First, the size issue. Clicky mechanisms take up extra space, so twisties are usually shorter than clickies - which helps people minimize the size of their EDC. Since there's nothing protruding on a twisty, they're also less likely to be turned on accidentally by a bump. With fewer moving parts, twisties are generally considered slightly more reliable than clickies. And it's really easy to implement a "high/low" setup on a twisty (think Surefire A2 or LX2, McLux III PD-S, etc.), which gives you immediate access to two different levels of light.

Hope this helps!

- FITP


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## spin1078 (Feb 18, 2010)

Yeah I know I'm rookie but it's not my first forum. I'll have to agree with the above statement. While I find I enjoy clickys better, twistys def have their place. Clickys can be really efficient depending on application. I got into the whole flashlight craze when I was camping with a friend but it really wasn't until I got into personal defense, and was introduced to surfefire and the defensive flashlight, that it really took off. 

When going for your pistol with your strong hand, the weak hand either secures itself on your chest, or it goes for the light. The light can be used to blind an opponent and make him look away briefly. This is usually taught nowadays with a clicky on mind. You use your weak had to grab the light and bang the clicky upon your chest. You then bring it to bear along with the pistol in one of many flashlight stances. Note, as massad ayoob stated, if you have an e2d defender or a recessed clicky, this may not work, and can even feel a bit uncomfortable with the crenallated bezel over the clicky, or youre not a cop with body armor. This can be helped by placing the thumb over the clicky before impacting it on you breastplate. 

Anyways, the clicky is even included in training for firearms so it definatly has it's place. Anyone with a protruded clicky has had the old heated pocket once or twice because their light has come on. My new everyday carry is on it's way to me. It's a fenix ldx200 leatherman (l1tv2) and it's a twisty. As much as I like clickys they can be a pain in a pocket full of stiff depending on the type of clicky. I recently purchased a Ultrafire c1 (landed getting one without th orange peel) and it has such a recessed and stiff clicky, it would probably be safe from accidental activation. It's a bit large for edc so I opted for a different light.

You just need to look at the application and also sear h for reviews on clickys. I have seen twistys that move with little or no effort that may be just as much of a pain if not more. I ordered a momentary on clicky from lighthound and it's a stiff cusomer as it's doesn't really click. Haven't received the 502b yet but it probably won't be wHat I wanted. Good luck in your hunt.


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## ragweed (Feb 18, 2010)

In a real survival situation, its single mode twisty for me. Anything else, a clicky is just fine. IMHO.


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## carrot (Feb 18, 2010)

I'm through and through a twisty person. I have my fair share of clickies but the large majority of the lights I use every day are twisties. Why? Because clicky lights are longer, are more susceptible to switch failure, and worst of all, are extremely easy to accidentally activate. More importantly, clicky lights only offer one mode available instantly -- you must click through to get other modes. On many twisties with multiple modes you can just twist a little bit for low and twist further for high (PD, Twisty, Aeon). I find it easy enough to manipulate twisties with one hand and rarely ever find the convenience factor of clickies to be useful enough to outweigh the drawbacks.


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## twirky (Feb 18, 2010)

I appreciate the reliability advice. Perhaps some of the "Piston Drive" lights mitigate this as claimed.

My 120P has a recessed enough (light can stand on its end) button that I'm not so worried about random pocket activation (Although I'm sure eventually it will happen).. More worried right now about the tiny cosmetic scrapes on it from my keys (black one), as I didn't think I'd love it enough to carry it on my keychain. I believe the 120T button is not recessed.

Certainly my expectation (hope I guess) is that I would be drawing a light before a weapon in most circumstances. But this is making me think about the reality of drawing both simultaneously in a non-fumbly manner. Weapon mounted lights are a wonderful thing though. I don't want to be forced to draw a weapon on someone to shine a flashlight on them, but if the bulk isn't a problem I certainly want as much light as possible shined on someone I needed to draw a weapon on

The Fenix P1D is so much smoother after lubricating... It can be turned off and on one-handedly with some exertion, but not comfortably by any means. Are any twisty ones actually comfortable? I like mention of some that have a click. The Fenix makes it really hard to tell whether you've passed the 'on' point and you can skip a level or end up hitting extra levels.

I do like the idea of twisty to continually adjust brightness, but clicky to turn it on (and even click-hold for brightest). Still, I can get to a desired brightness pretty fast with the NovaTac.


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## spin1078 (Feb 19, 2010)

Other than survival situations, the real concern is just activation and abttery cost. I know my ultrafire c1 is pretty tough on the clicky side. Havent received my Fenix TK11 yet but Im sure its too big for a EDC anyways. Right now my EDC is my small coleman max which has a recessed clicky thats tough even though the rubber cover sticks out a little. Its never come on before in my pocket and ive carried it for a year. I am going to replace it with that Fenix leatherman light (i think a l1t v2 re-badged) due to battery costs. The Fenix uses 1 AA as apposed to the mortgage-house CR2's.


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 19, 2010)

I've really been spoiled by the LiteFlux clickies. Never really had a problem with them or other brands either. Guess I'll feel different if one fails when I really need it to work. On the other hand twisties do keep the lights shorter.

Geoff


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## kramer5150 (Feb 19, 2010)

I haven't found a user interface yet that I couldn't get used to.

twist switches are my favs for the reliability, and I find a lockout feature a must have. As long as there is sufficient knurling and the light is not too small, I can easily operate it one handed.


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## well-lighted place (Feb 19, 2010)

I'm an equal-opportunity light bearer; I usually have a small twisty in my front pocket and a clicky in my back pocket. :twothumbs


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## pilote (Feb 19, 2010)

with regards on my surefire products; for me the added cost of a clicky is not worth its convenience...when you can buy a new g2 for the price of a new z59 clicky, i just say no to a clicky...


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## 289 (Feb 19, 2010)

clicky only for me, not interested in any light that you need to twist to turn on or access features.


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## jblackwood (Feb 20, 2010)

So people here on CPF usually say that twisty lights are more reliable thank clicky lights due to the slightly higher rate of failure of clickies. When I parroted this viewpoint (I can't explain why so that's really all I'm doing) I was confronted with "they're not more reliable. Using solder points as mechanical contact points is never a good idea." Like I said, I don't get it, does anyone here get it? Can someone explain. I ask this question purely from a reliability of the switch itself. One person did respond that even if one level of a twisty light failed, the other level(s) would still function. So what's more reliable, from those who understand better than I?  

And yes, I found this thread using the search.


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## carrot (Feb 20, 2010)

Well of course it is possible for twisty lights to fail. I have two Fenix twisties that failed and a third that appears to be threatening to fail. I could not discern failure mode but I can't exactly blame the switch for failure as the circuitry seems to have failed. However, even the best made clickies are more prone to failure than the best designed twisties. It's just the nature of the design, that clickies are more complicated both mechanically and electronically.


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## kramer5150 (Feb 20, 2010)

jblackwood said:


> So people here on CPF usually say that twisty lights are more reliable thank clicky lights due to the slightly higher rate of failure of clickies. When I parroted this viewpoint (I can't explain why so that's really all I'm doing) I was confronted with "they're not more reliable. Using solder points as mechanical contact points is never a good idea." Like I said, I don't get it, does anyone here get it? Can someone explain. I ask this question purely from a reliability of the switch itself. One person did respond that even if one level of a twisty light failed, the other level(s) would still function. So what's more reliable, from those who understand better than I?
> 
> And yes, I found this thread using the search.



Fewer moving parts. For the SF-Z41 its just a metal plate and a spring that touches the end of the tube. No parts to fail. its track record over the past ~3 decades, and _ONE _CPF report of failure speaks for itself. 

SF-Z41 gutts:




McClicky gutts:




If someone told you solder points are the main weakness of a click switch, I think they are wrong. My Fenix and Eagletac switches are very WELL soldered to their circuit boards. The complication (and higher rate of failure) comes from the sliding / rotating ratcheted parts inside. There is a plunger inside the switch that rotates and moves in and out as you press the button. Its the in-out-rotating movement that opens and closes the circuit.... but its also the complexity of the mechanics that can fail.

The plastics used in these mechanics are a very hard material, to prevent wear and seizing. Unfortunately they are also very brittle and can crack/break easily. The older white plastic SF-E series switches for example have a well documented CPF history of failure from plastic fracture. the new ones can be easily identified by the black plastic inside.







I think the McClicky switches are the most robust, reliable and have the best track record. I think his plastic is not as hard/brittle as the others, and he uses a very robust grease/lube to help increase longevity.


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## Roberts30 (Feb 20, 2010)

I love my Nitecore EX10, I can use it as a clicky or a twisty.. Just whatever I'm feeling like.


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## bansuri (Feb 21, 2010)

A twisty is absolutely more reliable. Kramer5150 explained it well. As far as a switch mechanism goes, the contact points could get oxidized, but it's a lot easier to clean a twisty tube end than take apart a tailcap switch.
HOWEVER, manufacturers haven't been making twistys like they are switchys. Recent twist lights like the 4sevens Quark MiNi and Maratac AA and AAA may reverse that trend. Especially if they see fewer units returned for warranty work. 
Also, there are plenty of other things to go wrong downstream of the switch mechanism so remember the axiom regarding flashlight failure: 1=none, 2=1.

I love my twistys, Liteflux LF2X, LF2, LF3, and Quark MiNi. If you have an LF5 sitting around please see my WTB post in marketplace! The Liteflux twisty interface, borrowed from another famous twisty, is perfect. The entire line operates the same, unlike the newer models, and once you get used to it one-handed operation is simple and programming is a breeze. I've been upgrading the emitters in the LFs to get them up to par with the new lights, neutrals and warmish emitters have really made a difference. 

I'm no hipster purist though, I still enjoy my Novatac 120 and Quark AA Regular immensely! Also, many manufacturers are including replacement switches in their packages which is a great value. They're "getting it" that we use the heck out of these things!

Edit: The lack of twistys has me looking elsewhere, got a Nitecore D10 Tribute on order and thinking about a *JetBeam Jet-III PRO ST*. The Nitecore is a great light that is somewhere between twisty and clicky, and the Jetbeam, well.... I just want one!


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## loszabo (Feb 21, 2010)

This discussion somehow reminds me of tip-down or tip-up carry with knives, which I never understood too...

I have and also owned several flashlights with totally different systems, from the Insight H2X (one of the best GUIs ever, IMHO!) to several stock SureFires.

- I love SF click-on (click-off) tailcaps the most. Be it my M2/L5 or E2D, they always work as they should. Still, I'm looking forward to the incoming G2D-FYL with the three-stage click-on tailcap.

- The best click-on tailcap is on my LensLight. Awesome!

- I sometimes have problems using my McGizmo LunaSol in low settings. I either press too hard instead turning the piston. As it is my "gentlemen's EDC light" it doesn't matter, though. I use the light for looking cool and bragging most of the time! ;-)

- My favorite twisty (twist-only) is a Muyshondt Enterprises Nautilus, where the foam ring is falling off. So much for reliable twisty designs...

- I owned several A2 and currently EDC a LX2: I hate those two-stage turn- and/or click-switches. I can't really lock out my LX2 though it worked fine on the A2s. So great the LX2 is, I'm already looking/hoping for an after-market switch that protects the light from being activated without intent. Same goes for the LX1, which is next!


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## Zeruel (Feb 21, 2010)

Definitely clicky for me. It's instantaneous, it's easily one-handed or should I say one-thumb. Should it fail, that's where my back-up comes into play, not that I have a failed switch before. Twisty is more suitable only if I prefer a light to be as small as possible. Piston drive is a great compromise for size and function IMO, but it's a pity very few lights use it.


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## carrot (Feb 21, 2010)

loszabo said:


> - My favorite twisty (twist-only) is a Muyshondt Enterprises Nautilus, where the foam ring is falling off. So much for reliable twisty designs...


Oh yes, because the foam donut is so important for the utility of the switching mechanism. It isn't. It's only there to prevent battery rattle. That's like saying, the boot of my clicky has lost some of its texturing, looks like it's failed.


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## wyager (Feb 21, 2010)

The only clicky to have ever failed on me is some cheap POS DX flashlight I was using as a laser host... that said, I keep a few twisties around. My main light (LD20) is a clicky, and I really like that interface. I hardly ever need turbo mode, so it's no problem to turn the head when I do. I EDC a maratac AAA twisty, because of it's super tiny size. I keep some incan twisties around for loaner lights and just in case there's an EMP and the non-metal part of my LEDs are pointed the wrong way . It's really up to user preference.


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## luke_DF (Feb 22, 2010)

interesting to hear these perspectives. I think it's largely a matter of personal preference.

I like the clickys because they are simple and responsive. for the really small keychain lights twisty is probably better - but hey I don't use any of those, so clicky gets my vote!


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## TKC (Feb 23, 2010)

*I very much prefer clickies over twisties.*


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## chartwell99 (May 17, 2011)

twirky;3283684
N
Has anyone felt that their twisty flashlight was a preferable interface to a clicky one? One-handed operation about seals it for me.[/QUOTE said:


> Clickies are easiest to use but it's unnerving that, other than Leupold, none of the manufacturers' warranties cover switches. Says something, doesn't it?


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## JWRitchie76 (May 17, 2011)

A quality Twisty light is a thing of beauty! No mode skipping or sloppy threads. Some quality Twisties that have passed through my hands include a Ra Twisty, Muyshondt Nautilus, Peak Logan, SS Preon Revo and SS Maratac AAA. The only one that required two hands was the Ra. I'd take a progressive twisty UI like the Ra or Muyshondt over a clicky light anyday. On the flip side a McGizmo McClickie is as good as it gets for clicky lights IMO .


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## LedTed (May 17, 2011)

NiteCore D10 clicky for me!
One handed operation
Reliable
Fast
Ergonomic


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## flame2000 (May 18, 2011)

I prefer clicky for one hard operation. Just curious, will the constant twisting compromise the o-ring seal in a twisty?


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## elgarak (May 18, 2011)

There are good and bad clickys, and good and bad twistys. IMO, a bad clicky beats a bad twisty, but a good twisty beats a good clicky


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## bshanahan14rulz (May 18, 2011)

Which of the two keeps resistance down more as you bump up the current?

I know there is at least one electronic clicky too, those don't count, obviously those would be the least resistance.


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## ringzero (May 18, 2011)

Twisties for keychain use, because of compactness and resistance to accidental turn ons.

Forward clickies with momentary capability for penlights and small tasklights, because of the ease and rapidity of bringing them into action.

My theory is that a forward clicky, if used nearly exclusively in momentary mode, will last a long, long time because of lack of wear and tear on the latching mechanism.

Probably 95% of the time my forward clickies are momentarily activated and used without being clicked fully on. Maybe 1 in 20 activations result in them being clicked to fully latch them on.

.


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## Sparky's Magic (May 18, 2011)

My current EDC. has the best of both worlds - S/F E2E with Malkoff VME. head and Z68 Clicky Tail. It can be used as a clicky.
Click on. Used as a Twisty, leave clicked on and deactivate the 'light by twisting the front section clockwise a small amount (about an eighth of a turn) and back again for on. This is the stealthy option and is how Malkoff designed the VME. head to be used with his Twisties...:thumbsup:
Properly cleaned and lubed this VME head affords effortless one handed operation.


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## thospress (May 18, 2011)

*Re: Clicky vs Twisty*



pipspeak said:


> Twisties are fine IMO if there's also a momentary on (call it the "Surefire method"). And I'd rather trust my survival to a twisty than a clicky.


 
I agree. It's interesting that the Surefire warranty no longer covers switches (it previously excluded only switches on Weapons Lights), presumably because of reliabilty issues with Surefire clickies.


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## jdboy (May 18, 2011)

*Re: Clicky vs Twisty*

For me I seem to prefer a clicky. Although I don't mind a twisty as long as it has a momentary on the tail cap. I did find (with a new light) that if the tail cap thread don't have enough tension and it's a twisty make sure you back it off enough so that it don't turn on in your pocket. I had my new to me Elektro Lumens in my pocket the other night and it got warm enough to get my attention very quickly, !!!


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## HotWire (May 18, 2011)

Depends on the light....An M4 with SW01 is one-handed, swift and reliable. For a smaller light like the M3 I prefer the Z-58. For a super small light a twisty fits the watch pocket in my jeans better. For me, it just depends on which light.


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## Bullzeyebill (May 20, 2011)

Two current posts moved from older Clicky vs Twisty thread to this one.

Bill


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## Nicrod (May 27, 2011)

Clickies are my favorite and all my best lights are. But there are some lights that can only be twistys and that's there character. Maratac,itp, arc aaa,ect.

Nick


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## Borad (May 29, 2011)

If I was buying a flashlight as a gift for a non-flashlight enthusiast (I forgot what you call yourselves), I'd get a clicky with a button on the side that's easy to feel (and fairly easy to press) so there would be less confusion about how to turn it on in the dark and no danger of accidently unscrewing anything. I grew up with cheap sliding switch flashlights, so even with a side button I'd be worried that some people wouldn't know how to turn it on in the dark.


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## Borad (May 29, 2011)

Do any twisties give some indication of when you've twisted well into the on or off zone? Otherwise I could imagine a seldom used EDC turning on in your pocket or bag and the batteries draining or overheating. Do any twisties snap in place?


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## Cataract (May 30, 2011)

I think that the reliability argument is way over-rated. There was a thread not long ago asking about the reliability of clickies and almost no one could report a switch failure. Sure, it might happen, but these switches are tested for thousands and thousands of operations. I personally never had a switch failure. I don't have anything against twisties, I own quite a few, but for work I definitely need a clickie - I wouldn't want to drop a light in a 5 gallon tank of acid while lifting a 30 pound rack out because it became too hard to operate of my other arm is getting tired, but that's just part of my job. 

If clickies don't have a switch to fail, it is my opinion (and please do correct me if I'm wrong) that the o-ring might need to be changed more frequently (ok, probably after X many years of operation) and more frequent lubing to help keep it alive longer and easy to operate. Even if your o-ring does not show any cacks, it could be thin enough to let water in. How can you know without testing it directly and risking water infiltration?? Worse yet, find out when you actually need the light...

On the other hand, if a battery leaks in a twistie, there is no risk of ruining a perfectly good switch. Less parts to break, less o-rings, less moving parts and much more compact. I EDC twisties on the weekend when I know I won't need a sophisticated light. I like the fact that they are small enough to ride in my pant pockets, but when comes time to do more than find a key hole or tie my shoes, I'm a clickie guy.

I think that both have their advantages and disadvantages and none is really superior to the other in the long run - just different sizes, different interfaces and even different uses in some cases. It is just natural that preferences differ from one person to the next, everyone uses what he thinks is the absolute best, but the reality is that 95% of that belief is based on personal preference.


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## KVoimakas (May 30, 2011)

I much prefer clickies. I have a couple 4 Sevens clickies (aa tactical and aa2 turbo) and I would much rather have the aa tactical over my mini aa. I usually have all three anyway (love my leathers. Pockets everywhere!) I reach for the clicky first.


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## Zorzi (Apr 12, 2018)

Hello flashaholic friends, I know this is a really old thread, but I gess it is still a relevant one. I don't have a prefered type of switch, I like both and have several flashlights of both types. At first, I tend to think that the twisties are more reliable, due to less moving parts. Currently my main EDC flashlight is a Jetbeam Jet-I Mk, which is a great AA twisty flashlight. But one concern that I have, if the thread anodizing wears out for any reason (lack of lubing, cleaning, care or all of them), then that could render the flashlight useless, at this would cause it to make contact through the threads and stay on all the time. On clickies, on the other hand, you always have the option of replacing the switch. Has anyone ever had this issue with a twisty?

Thank you!!


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## eh4 (Apr 12, 2018)

Generally speaking, a twisty would be optimal for a light with a really useful set of firefly, low, and medium light levels, with long runtimes and with a design premium on simplicity and reliability; 
failing reliability, less parts and easy fixes in random situations i.e. "the field". 
A clicky would be most useful when your priority is instant light with one hand, probably not with firefly or low coming in first either. 

I've never experienced, and have never heard of thread anodizing wearing until it created a constant on state. 
I think the light would fail from moisture and corrosion ingress first, once the O rings were gone and the water and grit were coming in
- to eventually wear down the anodizing. 

In a pinch, you can always use the grease that accumulates at the edge of your nose as a thread grease, it's the same quality as whale oil. There's no reason to have dry threads.


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## Guitar Guy (Apr 13, 2018)

While both types of switches may have pros / cons, I find it quite easy to use even the smallest of twisty switch lights with one hand. You simply hold it against the palm of your hand with your 2nd and / or 3rd finger, and rotate the head with thumb and 1st finger. Pretty simple.


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## KITROBASKIN (Apr 13, 2018)

Guitar Guy said:


> While both types of switches may have pros / cons, I find it quite easy to use even the smallest of twisty switch lights with one hand. You simply hold it against the palm of your hand with your 2nd and / or 3rd finger, and rotate the head with thumb and 1st finger. Pretty simple.



Perhaps under most circumstances one hand works. Rapid it is sometimes not, especially when in a hurry/stressed. Also for older people who have over-used their fingers, it can be painful or awkward to try to actuate a twist light with one hand.


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## bykfixer (Apr 13, 2018)

Clickies have their place. Side switch for example. Twistys have their place. Gas pedal type for example.

I like twistys when absolute reliability is in order and at times use a clicky with lockout like a twisty. But a clicky at the tail end sure is convenient and easy to use.

For some a side switch is best. 

My favorite is a slider on the side. One hand ease with a twisty reliability (with regular maintenance of course).


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## orionlightlight (Apr 16, 2018)

Twistys also provide the potential for infinite variability, which is better than non customizable modes.


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## MikeSalt (Apr 18, 2018)

ringzero said:


> Twisties for keychain use, because of compactness and resistance to accidental turn ons.
> 
> Forward clickies with momentary capability for penlights and small tasklights, because of the ease and rapidity of bringing them into action.



This is exactly how I carry, twisty on the keying (currently Wee SS) and clicky clipped in the lighter pocket (Zebralight SC52D, yes, yes, I know, not a proper clicky).


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## Croquette (Apr 18, 2018)

Some twisties allow more current than clickies for max output.


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## eh4 (Apr 18, 2018)

Another feature of twisties that isn't as common as it should be is that if the light head screws Into the battery tube, then the light is intrinsically water resistant when hanging down. 
Same situation with a clicky except there's the switch boot as a point for failure. 

Unfortunately many of not most lights have the tube screwing into the head, which means that if the light is hanging down then the only thing keeping water from being channeled directly into the light is the O ring. 
L3 Illumination is one brand who makes lights where the head screws into the battery tube.


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## Zorzi (Apr 18, 2018)

That is an interesting observation! But I guess that would make the battery tube (and the flashlight as a whole) a little bulkier, wouldn't it?


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## Toehead (Apr 19, 2018)

For EDC or typical flashlight use I prefer a clicky with access to the different modes. Of course the simpler the UI the better, I just need an easy way to click through the modes, or dial through the modes like a handfull of lights offer.

For weapons light/tactical flashlight I prefer momentary only with twist on. It is the only way to maintain control over the light. I have a rear clicky and there have been way too many times I've accidentally clicked it on when I didn't want to, would not want that at the wrong situation. I'm a firm believer of having separate EDC and tactical lights.


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## eh4 (Apr 19, 2018)

Zorzi, yes at least at the head-tube interface, but it only needs to be a collar, maybe more an issue of cost for a little extra machining than weight, also it might not have been considered as an important design feature; manufacturers going for waterproof ratings not water shedding design. 
I've noticed it carrying a AAA twisty as a necklace light for a few years, the Ti3 that I use will absolutely corrode from sweat if the o ring becomes at all compromised, the L3 Illumination L8 won't.


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## bykfixer (Apr 19, 2018)

Toehead said:


> For EDC or typical flashlight use I prefer a clicky with access to the different modes. Of course the simpler the UI the better, I just need an easy way to click through the modes, or dial through the modes like a handfull of lights offer.
> 
> For weapons light/tactical flashlight I prefer momentary only with twist on. It is the only way to maintain control over the light. I have a rear clicky and there have been way too many times I've accidentally clicked it on when I didn't want to, would not want that at the wrong situation. I'm a firm believer of having separate EDC and tactical lights.



Well put. Music to my eyes.

Welcome to CPF.


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