# P4'ed Myo XP - worlds easiest mod!



## AndreasB (Feb 21, 2007)

Just put a Seoul P4 in my Myo XP. Fits like a glove - seems as if the optics will work fine with the P4 as well.

The mod went smooth. I got my P4 from AW today and AAA'ed/soldered it onto a K2-star which seem to work fine.

Gonna test the Myo in a couple of hours when daylite fades.

Off to P4 my Tikka XP now. It seems even easier.

AndreasB


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## Dutch (Feb 21, 2007)

Oooo. Can't wait to see how this turned out!!

I love my Myo XP.


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## boef800 (Feb 21, 2007)

Dutch said:


> Oooo. Can't wait to see how this turned out!!
> 
> I love my Myo XP.



I too can't wait....planning to put a Seoul Star into mine.If it's really driven at around 350 mA on high,we could see almost a doubled output at ~90 lumens.


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## AndreasB (Feb 21, 2007)

I'm sorry I forgot to measure the current when I put in the star.

Did measure the current on the Tikka however - heres the numbers:

Tikka XP
High 65 mA
Optimal 50 mA
Low 22 mA
Boost 190 mA

These are the numbers using 70% full rechargeables.
As far as I can gather from using Tikka/Myo over a couple of weeks these headlamps doesn't run at constant-current since they dimm as the batteries goes flat. 

AndreasB


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## Edro (Feb 21, 2007)

AndreasB said:


> Off to P4 my Tikka XP now. It seems even easier.


Please let us know how your Tikka XP mod goes, with pictures if possible.


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## AndreasB (Feb 21, 2007)

Ok, so I just did the Tikka XP mod.

When I had mounted the P4 to the star the mod itself took about 5 minutes. Yes, really - only 5 minutes.

It takes quite some heat to unsolder the old star but apart from that its a walk in the park.

Right now we got a snowblizard here so I dont know if I'll step outside for some beamshots this evening or tomorrow instead. My friend is going to step over one of these days with a regular Myo XP, so I hop to take some comparing shots.

Edro: Do you want beamshot or mod-shots? Really the mod-shots would be a bore since there's really nothing to show...

AndreasB


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## boef800 (Feb 21, 2007)

But what is your rough estimate?Lets say in a dark room/ceiling bound test,etc.Would you say it's a significant plus or even doubled?


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## Edro (Feb 21, 2007)

AndreasB said:


> Edro: Do you want beamshot or mod-shots? Really the mod-shots would be a bore since there's really nothing to show...


Both if possible. 
I haven't pulled apart a Tikka XP and would like to see it before I try it.
I'm a newbie so anything you share (pictures or instructions) would be appreciated.
Thanks.


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## TMorita (Feb 22, 2007)

AndreasB said:


> ...
> As far as I can gather from using Tikka/Myo over a couple of weeks these headlamps doesn't run at constant-current since they dimm as the batteries goes flat.
> 
> AndreasB


 
Yep, they are not regulated.

This is why I prefer the BD Zenix IQ over the Tikka XP/Myo XP.

The Zenix IQ is fully regulated, and the same price (~$50).

Toshi


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## AndreasB (Feb 22, 2007)

boef: I think its significant but not doubled. But thats just me guessing - I'm really not good at comparing. In a week or so I hope to get a stock Tikka to compare with. 

edro: I'm done with modding both lights and sadly didn't take any modshots. Its really easy modding the light (especially the Tikka) so I dont really think you'll need any guiding from me. Nevertheless if it would make you feel better opening your own light I can reopen my Tikka and take some reconstruction-shots.

AndreasB


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## Scattergun (Feb 22, 2007)

+1 on Edro´s question


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## chris_m (Feb 22, 2007)

AndreasB said:


> Did measure the current on the Tikka however - heres the numbers:
> 
> Tikka XP
> High 65 mA
> ...


As I reported before, I got 120mA on high in a Tikka XP with almost new alkalines, and a whopping 450mA on boost! It does make a huge difference the state of the batteries in Tikka series lights (and AFAIK in all Petzl lights), as they aren't actually regulated as such - I believe the various levels are all fixed proportions of the current available power. Certainly when I use these for racing with I always make a point of putting fresh batteries in to maximize the light output.

I also suggested before that it's worth checking whether the current changes after doing the mod, as I have a suspicion they may be voltage "regulated" rather than current "regulated" given the way they seem to work.


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## peteybaby (Feb 22, 2007)

AndreasB said:


> boef: I think its significant but not doubled. But thats just me guessing - I'm really not good at comparing. In a week or so I hope to get a stock Tikka to compare with.
> 
> edro: I'm done with modding both lights and sadly didn't take any modshots. Its really easy modding the light (especially the Tikka) so I dont really think you'll need any guiding from me. Nevertheless if it would make you feel better opening your own light I can reopen my Tikka and take some reconstruction-shots.
> 
> AndreasB



Hi AndreasB. I've posted in the PT Apex thread that I own an Apex and would like detailed instructions on how to do the Cree/Seoul mod for it, but it just so happens that my partner's headlamp is the Tikka XP so I've been watching to see how you fared in your mod attempts as well. So now that you've succeeded, (does the Tikka XP behave the same way it used to? All modes work? Run-time is as good or better, but the light is brighter?) would you be able to give me some specific instructions? I may not understand the jargon that people use at CPF so if you could write steps like the following, it would be much appreciated:

1. Buy <model name, #> LED from where?
2. any other mechanical or electrical bits required?
3. Open Tikka XP how?
4. Remove old LED how?
5. Solder which wires to which terminals/tabs on the LED?
6. Re-install new LED how?
7. any other mechanical steps necessary
8. Put Tikka back together.

Thanks!


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## AndreasB (Feb 22, 2007)

Petey (and others),

OK, here goes. I'll update this post later with more info and pictures. I'll have to keep it short for now. Mind my spelling.

1. Buy one Tikka XP and one star-mounted Seoul P4 led (AW will probably be selling these in a couple of days/weeks - check out his thread in the Sellers-section, otherwise you can buy a bare emitter and solder it onto a star yourself. I wouldn't recommend reusing the stock star).

2. Tools: You'll need a small torx-screwdriver (size=6) and a soldering iron

3. Turn the head of the light all the way up

4. Remove the backside (using your nails will do the trick)

5. Remove batteries

6. Unscrew the three small torx-screws on the backside of the light

7. Gently retract the light-electronics from the frontcover of the light (using a flat screewdriver if neccessary)

8. Remove the black plastic-cap from the LED-star (no tool required - this is where the optics-plate sits)

9. Unsolder the stock star (you'll have to use quite a lot of heat but eventually you'll get it)

10. Presolder the P4-star and the two wires

11. Solder the P4-star (remember to check for polarity first)

11b. You might have to put some thermal-grease on the backside where the heatdiode sits. I didn't since there was more than enough left on mine.

12. Place the black plasticcap on the P4-star

13. Gently replace the light-electronics back into the front-cover (remember to place the optics-plate into the black plastic cap first)

14. Screw the 3 torx-screws back in

15. Put batteries back in light

16. Replace backside of the light

17. Your good to go

AndreasB


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## AndreasB (Feb 22, 2007)

Petey,

And to answer your questions:

Yes, the Tikka XP behaves exactly the same way it used to. All modes work.

I haven't tested the runtime yet but since the current hasn't changed I'm quite sure the mod *won't *change the run-times.

I definately think it's brighter but I would like to get back on that when I get the time to test it some more.

AndreasB


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## peteybaby (Feb 22, 2007)

AndreasB said:


> Petey (and others),
> 
> OK, here goes. I'll update this post later with more info and pictures. I'll have to keep it short for now. Mind my spelling.
> 
> ...



Wow, thanks AndreasB. that's great! Looking forward to your pictures too if you post some.


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## Edro (Feb 22, 2007)

Fantastic write up AndreasB! Thank you! Thank you!
Looking forward to pics too.
Sorry for the newbie questions: #10 and #11 seem to be the same. I know they are not but maybe you (or someone else) can clarify.
#10: does this mean soldering the P4 star's + and - contacts to the + and - wires of the Tikka XP?

#11: or is this the soldering I just described above?

Thanks for your help.


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## AndreasB (Feb 22, 2007)

Thanks guys.

By #10 I mean preparing the wires and the star by soldering some solder to the wires and star-contacts. This way both parts will be ready for the attachments of the star in number #11. Strictly speaking both #10 and 11 is parts of the solderingproces.

If you are used to soldering - just do as you're used to.

I tried to make a mod-movie but failed miserably. My soldering skills are bad but my camerahandlingskills are even worse.

I did manage to take these fotos. I know they're not good. Hope they can help you.


















Btw - another great thing which makes modding the tikka a walk in the park is that the black plasticcap goes on top of the emitter and keeps the optics-plate completely centered (even if the emitter is a little off center on the star).

AndreasB


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## Dutch (Feb 22, 2007)

Good stuff!

Thanks!


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## AndreasB (Feb 22, 2007)

Oops, its actually PhotonFanatic that has a feeler-thread with P4-stars:

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=152021

AW will most likely be supplying some emitter though:

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=151476

I got some K2-stars, which work fine for P4 as well from this guy on e-bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminium-star-for-luxeon-K2-LEDs_W0QQitemZ180062344345QQihZ008QQcategoryZ33713QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

And you should make sure you get U-bin P4's. As far as i remember the T-bin is lower quality.

Happy modding!

AndreasB


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## Edro (Feb 22, 2007)

Great shots AndreasB! :goodjob:
Your camera skills are really good. Those pictures are very clear.
Thanks a ton! You have inspired me to mod my Tikka XP.
I get the #10 and #11 now. Put some solder on the P4 star contact and then some solder on the XP wires before mounting. Then mount and then heat them together.
Thanks for your patience.


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## Jiffy (Feb 22, 2007)

Well done. I've got a MyoXP so this is very interesting. Is they MyoXP harder to mod?


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## AndreasB (Feb 23, 2007)

Jiffy,

I don't like to use the word 'hard' when modding Tikka or Myo because both mods are just soooo easy. 

But modding the Myo you'll have to remove the heatssink before you get to the electronics. This i really no problem at all.

So on a difficulty-scale from 1 to 10, 1 being the easiest and 10 be the hardest I would say the Tikka mod is a definate 1 and the Myo XP I would put at 1½.

AndreasB


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## AndreasB (Feb 23, 2007)

For all the old school Tikka owners I got a cree-mod.  

Tried this mod on an old 2001 Tikka with succes. Only problem is soldering the wires to the battericontacts (which are aluminium or such) so I ended up modding a Silva light instead.

The mods a bit more difficult (4'er or a 5'er) but the light will blow away any modded Tikka XP or Myo XP.

Oh, and yeah I know the light is ugly.... 







AndreasB


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## cmacclel (Feb 23, 2007)

There's not much of a heatsink there.......


Mac


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## AndreasB (Feb 23, 2007)

Actually the heatsink works perfect and the lights weight is still not more than the Tikka XP's.

It's a cree driven directly with 3 AAA's. With fresh batteries it runs at around 400 mA. I got a total runtime with decent light at around 4 hours.

In a 30 min test in roomtemparature the heatsinktemperature was only around 36 degrees celcius.

In a 4 hour test at 0 degrees celcius the heatsink only reached about 5 degrees celcius.

AndreasB


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## abvidledUK (Feb 23, 2007)

No it's not !!

The DX Elly is the Worlds easiest mod...

Seoul or CREE (I prefer the CREE version)

Pre & post figrures here...
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/153283

(How to do it elsewhere, in detail, if you need the detail)


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## Scattergun (Feb 27, 2007)

I´d have to agree with abviedledUK, but this one isn´t far behind. I put a Seoul in my friends XP yesterday, and it´s like ten minutes of work. The best thing about it is the black holder wich centers the LED perfectly!


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## AndreasB (Feb 27, 2007)

Well, I'll just have to get me an Elly then... 

Until then I urge every Petzl XP owner to P4-mod their lights.

Btw - I hope to get a stock Myo XP here today or tomorrow. I'll post some before/after beamshots then.

AndreasB


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## Scattergun (Feb 27, 2007)

Thats perfect! I think the difference will be quite obvious when compared!


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## boef800 (Feb 27, 2007)

AndreasB said:


> Well, I'll just have to get me an Elly then...
> 
> Until then I urge every Petzl XP owner to P4-mod their lights.
> 
> ...



cool,that's what I'm most courios looking forward to:naughty:

alex


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## AndreasB (Feb 27, 2007)

So finaly got my hands on a stock Myo XP for some comparison.
I would say the P4 modded Myo XP is significantly brighter than the stock XP. The output doesn't seem to be doubled however.

I took these beamshots. Sadly the shots doesn't really show the difference in ligth output between the two lights. It must be because I suck at taking pictures. Anyone got a writeup on how to take beamshot using a Canon S2? 



























AndreasB


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## dixemon (Feb 27, 2007)

great beamshots!


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## AndreasB (Feb 27, 2007)

Maybe I should take some outside beamshots.
Just tested the lights outside.
Based on that I would say the output of the modded light on medium setting is about the same as the stock one running on high. Also the modded light has much more flood and a wider spot.

AndreasB


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## AndreasB (Feb 27, 2007)

Ok, these outside shots shows the difference a little better.









And as a little bonus a shot using my oldschool Silva mod:






AndreasB


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## boef800 (Feb 27, 2007)

You are right,it seems the shots show no difference at all.You should use the Manual Exposure Mode of the cam.Turn the dial on the right top side of the camera onto "M" and choose an appropiate aperture opening,let's say the most lowest number possible,3.5 for example and the exposure time.And then you would shoot all the shots with this same fixed exposure parameters.It isn't difficult at all.Just a two minutes look into the manual would do it already if my explanation wasn't quite enough.

greetz,Alex


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## boef800 (Feb 27, 2007)

boef800 said:


> You are right,it seems the shots show no difference at all.You should use the Manual Exposure Mode of the cam.Turn the dial on the right top side of the camera onto "M" and choose an appropiate aperture opening,let's say the most lowest number possible,3.5 for example and the exposure time.And then you would shoot all the shots with this same fixed exposure parameters.It isn't difficult at all.Just a two minutes look into the manual would do it already if my explanation wasn't quite enough.
> 
> greetz,Alex



P.S.: on the outside shots there is a difference discernible.


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## AndreasB (Feb 27, 2007)

Alex,
I agree, the shots are all POS.
Just tried taking some wallshots using manual exposure. Didn't get any better.
I give up.  

AndreasB


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## Edro (Feb 27, 2007)

The outside shot is easier to see the difference.
Since it's not much brighter I would expect the run time would be longer.


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## AndreasB (Feb 27, 2007)

Edro,

The current shouldn't have changed from the mod. So the runtime shouldn't change either. 

But as I wrote the modded light puts out just as much light on medium as the stock one on high. So you could put the modded light on medium to get app. the same output but longer runtime.

The difference in light output is really quite significant though I'm aware that the shots don't do the modded light justice.

AndreasB


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## boef800 (Feb 27, 2007)

Thanks for trying it anyway Andreas.:rock:

Alex


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## cave dave (Feb 27, 2007)

I haven't done a mod yet but here is a pic of the insides of a Tikka XP. There is just a standard Star board under the black plastic optic holder.

Are the P4s available on a compatible star board, or do I have to reuse the Lux board?


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## Edro (Feb 27, 2007)

AndreasB, thanks for that clarification.

cave dave, I'm not sure if this is a compatible star board but PhotonFanatic just got some P4's on stars and is selling them:
Seoul P4 Stars - USW0H

Not to be confused with the P4 emitters he's also selling. He uses almost the same info for each posting, even though one is the emitter and the other is the emitter + star...it took me a while to get that, then I finally looked at the titles and saw that one is the emitter only.


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## AndreasB (Feb 28, 2007)

Dave,
I wouldn't recommend reusing the lux-star when you desolder the star you'll se why.
You can mount your P4-emitter to a star yourself or just bye a star from Photonfanatic from the link Edro gave you.

AndreasB


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## Rigor (Mar 20, 2007)

Just modded my MYO with SSC P4 star bought from dealextreme...

Just nice  
Old SV1K luxeon was dimmer than my L1P... Seoul? Much brighter


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## Curious_character (Mar 21, 2007)

I just put a SSC P4 into a Myo XP. The Myo looks entirely different inside than the pictures of the Tikka in earlier postings.

As expected, the total light output (lumens) is just about exactly *twice* what it was before the mod. But the center beam (lux at one meter, or "throw") measures just about exactly the same as before. This means that the new LED isn't as sharply focused, so I've got a larger central beam and/or brighter spill. In my opinion, these are assets for a headlamp.

c_c

(edit: added word "twice", accidentally left out in original posting)


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## dixemon (Mar 21, 2007)

Curious character, glad to see you got your new headlamp modded. Sounds like a worthwhile improvement.


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## peteybaby (May 21, 2007)

I just modded my girlfriend's Tikka XP with a Seoul P4. Incredibly easy mod, and great results. The most difficult step in the entire process for me was finding a Torx T6 screwdriver.


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## Jiffy (Jul 26, 2007)

I've got a Cree Xre Q5 coming from DX. How easy would it be to mod my Myo XP with this?


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## tnuckels (Aug 19, 2007)

I bought 2 SSC P4 USV0H stars from Fred at PhotonFanatic. This was indeed an easy mod. Followed the instructions, used a 3/32 hex screw driver as my Torx only go as small as #10, be careful of the black rubber cylinder (see post 18, 2nd pic, lower left corner of the light) as it will try to get away from you, removed to old heatsink goo and replaced it with a bit of Artic Silver 5 leftover from a PC upgrade, got to use my new Wahl IsoTip iron, and the results are outstanding … what’s not to love, I’m ready to start building flashlights … NOT. I can only hope that my next upgrade, my old LongBow Micra, goes as smoothly. Cheers, and thanks for the info!


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## Gaffle (Aug 19, 2007)

Myo Xp Mod

This guy has good pictures of his Xp mod.


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## krushed (Aug 19, 2007)

What do you guys think of using lithium AAA's for the headlamp after modding the light to a Q5 CREE? Won't that provide higher current and a significantly brighter light?


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## msxtr (Aug 31, 2007)

Gaffle said:


> Myo Xp Mod
> 
> This guy has good pictures of his Xp mod.



:twothumbs

Thanks!!!! 

msxtr


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## stansbrew (Oct 7, 2007)

Nice mod!! I just ordered the Cree LED to mod the Tika Xp that I have had for a year and a number of power outages, (getting ready for the storm season now) and I just can't wait for this mod to be done, Exciting!!
Thanks for the great info and insperation.:thumbsup:


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## Szemhazai (Oct 13, 2007)

Thanks for the manual, I've made Myobelt XP mod for a firend of mine... 

here you can see effects *Luxeon III SX0JW* vs *SSC P4 USWNH*
LOW




MID




HIGH


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## yycho2 (Oct 15, 2007)

hi, i have a myo xp and would like to mod it.

where can i purchase the SSC P4 online? 

i was reading some reviews on Deal Extreme, it seems that the Star connected to the P4 is not OEM.


Szemhazai, is it possible to mod a CATEYE HL with a more powerful LED?


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## Szemhazai (Oct 16, 2007)

yycho2 said:


> Szemhazai, is it possible to mod a CATEYE HL with a more powerful LED?



For good quality SSC, you have to look for a local distributor... 

Can you be more precisely about this Cateye ?? HL ELXXX means only front light...


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## yycho2 (Oct 21, 2007)

Szemhazai,

There is no local distri for SSC products in my country, most probably i'll get it from DX or Kaidomain.... 

anyone has bad experience with these online stores?

the cateye that i have is HL- EL510, possible to mod it? if yes, with which LED?


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## boef800 (Oct 21, 2007)

A very good source for the emitter is PhotonFanatic,right here in the forums' dealers section.

Greetings,Alex


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## Szemhazai (Oct 22, 2007)

It's a bit OT but nobody is screaming so .

It's possible but it's very hard to dismount the head - there is emitter so you have to replace it. I have never moded this light so you are on your own this time – I don’t like head locking system.


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## chris_m (Oct 22, 2007)

Came to this thread looking for info on what current the LED is driven at in a Tikka XP, and what should I find 



chris_m said:


> As I reported before, I got 120mA on high in a Tikka XP with almost new alkalines, and a whopping 450mA on boost!



Was looking to compare with an Eos, and noting that is driven at 300mA on high would explain the difference in brightness! To think I used to be a Tikka XP fan!


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## Papa Lima (Oct 24, 2007)

*Cree Xr-E 7090 led in Myo XP - worlds easiest mod!*

Hello all

I modded my myo XP with a cree XR-E 7090 led and got about a third more light at any level. But the pattern of the light is very different from the original. It has a very high angle of about 30 degrees and there are very visible rings in the beam. Its almost as if I was using the diffuser in the light before the mod.

This is a picture with the light app. 7 cm from a white wall.







But I like it a little more now because of the higher output


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## gunga (Oct 24, 2007)

I think that is expected because the cree has a very different beam angle than the orginal luxeon.

That is why most people mod with a seoul, it is very close and can be done as a straight swap in many cases.

DOes the Myo use an optic like the Tikka XP, or is it a reflector?

If it's an optic, you would have to change optics to get somethng that works with cree.

If reflector, you have to do a lot of filing away, even then the beam may not be optimal.


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## Papa Lima (Oct 25, 2007)

*More about the cree XR-E 7090 mod myo XP...*

The Myo XP uses an optic and it seems to be integrated into the design, so it may be hard to change.

The light now give a wide beam (without the diffuser), and a very good illumination out to about 20 - 30 meters. So the throw of the original myo xp is totally lost. But it´s impressive to see how large an area that the light now can illuminate. The diffuser is now just a plastic flab that is only used for close-up work.

I uses a Fenix L2D-Q5 for longer range illumination. At least I have ordered one, so I look forward to see if it will match my requirement for long range lighting


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## spinkid (Nov 7, 2007)

I finally got around to modding my XP with the spare assembly they sent me. I put my P4 on the original star and used the original optics and this worked great. I tested this against my replacement XP and the P4'd one blows it away. The P4'd MYO makes the original beam look like dying incan beam, horribly yellow. I could never see that alone though. The modded XP has a nice beam in every setting, but the high beam burst is just amazing. It is so friggin' bright I can't believe it. This is definetely a worthwile mod. Total time to assemble the headunit I received with my original battery pack and swap the LED's was maybe 15-20 minutes. A star for star swap would haev saved time, but that's not what I had. Can't wait to do some winter backpacking with this!!


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## Papa Lima (Nov 8, 2007)

Hello Spinkid

Is the beam on your modded XP still concentrated in a small spot or is it like mine very wide and with only a small centered spot?. Could you post a beamshot.

I have used the Cree XR-E 7090 led and it seems to have a lightpattern that do not fit the lens of the XP that well. I would like to have the original lightpattern of the Luxeon star, but with the Cree´s output and color.


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## spinkid (Nov 8, 2007)

Papa Lima, I will do my best to get a beamshot of the light for you up tonight. When I shined it on my cieling, I believe the beams were realively similar. I know someone mentioned the characteristics of the beam were different between the Cree and P4, and I confirmed that as well with different mods. You really have to play with the spacing of the LED and optics to get the cree to work with LUX optics. This is not easily done with the MYO. I modded my swiss army (inova) AA the same night with another P4 I ordered, and the before and after brghtness seem identical, although the P4 is whiter but not any brighter to my eye.


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## spinkid (Nov 8, 2007)

Papa Lima, Here are the photos I have of my lights. I am horrible with the camera, so please forgive. The first photo is my un-modded MYO XP, and the 2nd photo is of the P4'd XP. I hoppe these help you a little.

Original:




P4'd:


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## Papa Lima (Nov 9, 2007)

Spinkid, that looks much more nice than mine. The Cree led seems not to match the myo XP that well. Yesterday I too re-modded my XP and cut of some of the internal black ring that holds the led in place. This made more space for the square base of the cree led. So now the led is a little closer to the lens and the light is more concentrated in a spot. I will make some beamshots in the start of next week.

It would be nice if it were possible to get a reflector that would fit inside the XP housing. I think that that would send more light out instead of into the inside of the housing.


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## CampingLED (Nov 13, 2007)

Hi, new to the forum.

Thank you to the original poster on the P4 mod. Based on the article I ordered 2 x P4 LEDs (one for my Myo and one for my son's Myo). Still waiting for these to be delivered, but received the CREE Q5 bin LED in the mean time.

I modded the one MYO with the Q5 in the mean time and was very dissapointed in the outcome. I played around with the disassembled MYO that was working with the CREE and and my findings were as follows:

- Original MYO was more yellow, but had nice focus. Beam was also brighter
- Cree without lens was very bright and had a wide patern (nice for a headlamp)
- Cree with lens pressed right against emitter was much brighter and had a great focus (lens was used without black plastic guide to get closer to lens)

I think the Cree will do very well with some mods to the lens assembly, but decided to wait for the P4's to mod our MYOs. I do not wish to mod the MYOs too much from the original state and am also not sure what the heat effect will be if the lens is placed directly against the Cree for extended periods of time.

Regards
Johan


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## yycho2 (Nov 27, 2007)

i've managed to upgrade my MYO XP to Seoul P4....

Good news is:- 
much brighter than before...

Bad news:-
after i switch on the LED on high (not Blast mode), the battery indicator light will start to blink just after 30 sec, i've tried on a few completely new ENERGIZER alkaline, still same... :mecry:

And i notice the heat sink is pretty hot... i've actually mod it using a PC heat sink which is chunkier and with fins

Question:-
1) Wat can i do to prolong the battery life?
2) wat input voltage can the MYO XP circuitry accept? 
3) now is 3x AA, can i mod it to accept 4x AA?


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## hirby (Nov 28, 2007)

yycho2 said:


> i've managed to upgrade my MYO XP to Seoul P4....
> 
> Good news is:-
> much brighter than before...
> ...



As to the 3AA battery life.. It should be pretty unchanged from the original LED. Installing a P4 should not change the circuitry's power output to the LED (at least in any significant manner). It should be brighter with the Seoul P4, simply because the P4 is more efficient in kicking out light at the same power levels as the orignal Luxeon. Are you sure you didn't screw something up?

Check out my 4AA Myo XP and Myo 3 mix/match mod. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/174538


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## StillKeen (Oct 24, 2009)

Hi,

I've found lots of threads on moding a Tikka XP with a SSC P4 Ubin on a star, but havent been able to find exactly that to buy. Is it the same as these z-power ones? (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445)

I see dealextreme also sell a ubin ssc p4 without the star board, but I dont know which star board I'd need to buy to mount it on to fit into the tikka. I've read a few people saying not to reuse the one that's already in the tikka.

I need to buy a head torch, and everything I read points me to buying a Tikka XP and doing the mod, rather than a Tikka2 Plus or Tikka2 XP.

I live in the UK, so the dealextreme thing works well with their free shipping, but I'll consider other stores if the shipping is also free or close to it.

Thanks,


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## tnuckels (Oct 25, 2009)

I’m sorry, but I just wouldn’t buy one of these stars from DE or Kia. The P4 emitters come either loose or mounted to a star from SSC, the mounted emitters being less than a dollar more. DE’s site shows pictures of SSC stars, but when you roll over for a larger view you see some poorly soldered “P4” (yes, there are counterfeits of even LEDs) stuck on a cheap star. For the few pennies difference I’d much rather buy a neatly soldered, centered, tested unit.

You can reuse the old star, but the time and effort involved are just not worth it, which is why most recommend that you don’t.

Follow the last few posts in THIS thread for information on where to buy and a tint chart to help you decide what to buy.

Good Luck!


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## CampingLED (Nov 1, 2009)

:welcome: StillKeen. The LED that you are refering to is the same one that I used in three mods to date. My son's and my Myo XP long ago and recently one for a friend of mine. The only disadvantage is that the new star is thinner than the original one and you need to make sure that you have a good contact to the small heatsink. Imho a must do mod if you already have the blue Myo XP. Unfortunately I do not have or know enough about the Tikka XP. Back to the Myo XP, the gray one already has the P4 U-bin LED inside and should not be modded.


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## blitz-schlag-mann (Nov 19, 2009)

AndreasB, thank your for your detailed instruction. It still works. lovecpf

Regards
Ingmar


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