# Connection (??) problem with FM Megalennium



## nfetterly (Apr 17, 2009)

Looking for some help - no one else has seem to had any problem but I cannot get mine to work.

The batteries (3 x 18650 AW) are at 4.1 v - oriented to markings 
The bulb is a stock surefire bulb - works with M6 body
The AW switch works on a "C" body.

The only thing that seems strange is that when I put the switch in it is a little loose - see photos below where I have put it in the "in" and "out" position - the locking ring won't go down anymore without the switch there.

Suggestions?


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## senna94 (Apr 17, 2009)

*Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega*



nfetterly said:


> Looking for some help - no one else has seem to had any problem but I cannot get mine to work.
> 
> The batteries (3 x 18650 AW) are at 4.1 v - oriented to markings
> The bulb is a stock surefire bulb - works with M6 body
> ...



I had a problem with mine not working initially. For me the problem was that the AW 18650 cells I was using were the older style without the raised positive terminal. On mine they were flat and thus were not making good contact. Tiny pieces of aluminum foil balled up will verify this as the problem. I would not use this method for anything other than testing to verify this is the problem. The permanent fix for me was to purchase some new AW cells that have the raised + terminal. I hope this helps.


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## DM51 (Apr 17, 2009)

*Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega*



nfetterly said:


> I cannot get mine to work... The bulb is a stock surefire bulb - works with M6 body


Which bulb are you using? Unless it is an MN60 or MN61, you've simply blown the bulb with too much voltage. Even either of those could have blown straight away if you were unlucky.


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## nfetterly (Apr 17, 2009)

*Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega*

The bulb is an M20 or M21 - but I did run it over on the M6 body after I did not get it to work.

The cells are ~4 to 5 months old. 

I guess the next step is to take my one WA1185 and put it in my FM bi-pin holder - and check my cells (I have IMRs as well).


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## DM51 (Apr 17, 2009)

*Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega*

Well in a way, you were lucky! You've got an open circuit somewhere, or that MN20/21 would have blown immediately, so you've saved yourself ~$30. 

Maybe the switch is loose somewhow, or quite likely as Senna94 suggests, the flat-top cells aren't making proper contact.


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## nfetterly (Apr 18, 2009)

*Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega*



DM51 said:


> Well in a way, you were lucky! You've got an open circuit somewhere, or that MN20/21 would have blown immediately, so you've saved yourself ~$30.
> 
> Maybe the switch is loose somewhow, or quite likely as Senna94 suggests, the flat-top cells aren't making proper contact.



No luck. Cells aren't flat top (IMRs didn't work either). WA1185 in bi-pin holder didn't work either with Megalennium - works with M6 body.

Anyone have a link to troubleshooting basics (search is my friend... found it).


From suggestions below - threads on body all anodized except last one and no ano at the top. I tried some foil in the end of the cap (no luck). Cannot tighten any more. Need to search on removing ano (oven cleaner?)

Don't understand the suggestion with solder (which I don't have right now). Retaining ring is tight, but switch has some play with how much it can move - are you suggesting soldering switch to ring?


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## jslappa (Apr 18, 2009)

*Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega*

With my Megalomanialennium, I have to have the tail COMPLETELY tight. Not even 1/16th of a turn and my light doesn't work. Based on your pics, there seems to be enough bare metal showing, so maybe the ano wasn't removed enough from the tail thread of the body. All my body tail threads are anodized, but there's no ano at the top. Maybe a little ano needs to be removed from the top 1 or 2 threads.

Good luck


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## Cheesy (Apr 18, 2009)

*Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega*

If you have some solder, try putting a ring round the stepped area of the switch so the retaining ring screws down tight. In lieu of solder you could also try some foil.

I'm not convinced this is where the problem lies as the cells should push the switch into the tailcap but it's worth a go.


Kev.


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## nfetterly (Apr 18, 2009)

*Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega*



nfetterly said:


> No luck. Cells aren't flat top (IMRs didn't work either). WA1185 in bi-pin holder didn't work either with Megalennium - works with M6 body.
> 
> Anyone have a link to troubleshooting basics (search is my friend... found it).
> 
> ...




Took off tailcap and used a circuit tester (2 leads w/light) to connect center of battery connection & end of body with no threads. No light / connection.

So I looked up at the head connection - M6 has no ano on threads, Megelannium has ano on threads.... is this the problem? 

The head with WA1185 still works on the M6 body.


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## Cheesy (Apr 18, 2009)

*Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega*



nfetterly said:


> M6 has no ano on threads, Megelannium has ano on threads.... is this the problem?



No, the circuit is through the lamp ***'y inner and outer springs, no current flows in the head.

EDIT: Stupid question but you do have the front connection board fitted? Third pic down.

It is possible to use a bulb ***'y without the head if you are careful, you need to use something like long nose pliers to push it down into the body enough to make contact with the brass spike on the battery plate (+ve) and the bare Al ring on the body (-ve).


Kev.


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## niner (Apr 18, 2009)

*Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega*

I just received the new Megalennium w/ the clicky switch. I have the same problem, can't get it to work. I swap with my other Megalennium holder to test things out. Seems like the problem is in the head contact piece. The contact is recess just a little bit too much into the white plastic, or the brass bar is too short..


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## DM51 (Apr 18, 2009)

*Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega*

I've separated the above posts from FM's sale thread.


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## nfetterly (Apr 18, 2009)

Thanks for breaking it out.

Front board is fitted. 

From my testing the problem is in the head connection which kind of puzzles me - I think I'll have to look into making the connection without the head piece as suggested above. But I need to push the switch too.....


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## niner (Apr 18, 2009)

In my case, if I try to measure voltage like this pciture, I got nothing.





The problem seems to be at the brass bar that connects P to N (right hand side of the picture below). N is not making contact to the neg side of the battery.






I put a UltraFire (in stead of AW's) battery there, and it makes contact with the brass bar without problem. The UF battery uses slightly thinner shrink warp plastic. AW on th left, and UF on the right.





I don't have any problem with AW batteries in my other two "older" Megalennium's.


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## nfetterly (Apr 18, 2009)

That was one thing I wondered about in the back of my mind - when I looked in it didn't appear like there was much of a high spot for the negative end to connect to.

So I gave it a try - with only very light pressure there was no connection - pushing down harder I got 4.1 V.

So I though this cannot be it - so I put all the batteries back in, put it on it's tail - measured voltage across the head of the barrel - 11. something V - so then I looked at the head / bi-pin holder and thought then why doesn't it work???

So I put the head on & now it works. Without me really doing anything - (from my perspective).

Thanks for all the help - obviously I had a poor connection but I'm not quite sure what I did to make it better! Any insight from anyone I would appreciate.

Neale


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## fivemega (Apr 18, 2009)

*Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega*



nfetterly said:


> The bulb is an M20 or M21 - but I did run it over on the M6 body after I did not get it to work.


*I have no idea how you match the voltage of 3x18650 with MN21 or MN21*



nfetterly said:


> The cells are ~4 to 5 months old.
> I guess the next step is to take my one WA1185 and put it in my FM bi-pin holder - and check my cells (I have IMRs as well).


*It's a good idea to test with different batteries or different bulbs such as WA1166 before posting and confusing others.
There is a chance that your brand new batteries are not healthy or your bulb is burnt. *



nfetterly said:


> So I looked up at the head connection - M6 has no ano on threads, Megelannium has ano on threads.... is this the problem?


*No,
M6 and Megalennium get negative contact from buttom of lamp assembly outer spring seat.
It's meaningless to remove anodizing from threads.
Remember, anodizing is not only for cosmetic purpose. It's protection against corrosion and friction.*



niner said:


> In my case, if I try to measure voltage like this pciture, I got nothing.



*Try pushing red lead harder down. If you get voltage, then heat shrink of battery might be too thick at negative end.
Protected 18650 cells are longer than IMR and tail pressure will be greater to make good contact.*



niner said:


> The head contact piece is not working correctly. Either the recess for the brass is too deep, or the brass bar is too short. I have verify it with multimeter and caliper.
> 
> Seems like someone else on the forum has the same problem. Please advice of a solution.





fivemega said:


> *What lamp assembly are you using?*


 


nfetterly said:


> I tried both MN21 and LZ's LED module. But that doesn't matter. I measured with multimeter, and there's a break somewhere in the head contact. I stuck my finger there, I can feel the brass contact is just barely above the white plastic. Hosts from your previous batch are different.


*Never ever think of using this bulb in this flashlight.
I don't have or familiar to LED module and as far as I understand, they may not work in Megalennium because don't have positive and negative electrical spring contacts.*


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## niner (Apr 18, 2009)

*Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega*



fivemega said:


> *Try pushing red lead harder down. If you get voltage, then heat shrink of battery might be too thick at negative end.*
> *Protected 18650 cells are longer than IMR and tail pressure will be greater to make good contact.*


 
The one in the picture is IMR battery. I pushed pretty hard, but no good. Again, all AW batteries that work with last batch of Megalennium don't work with this one. Did you change the design? or I'm unlucky and got another bad one. (I have a bad 4x18650 holder and waiting for a replacement)


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## fivemega (Apr 18, 2009)

*Re: Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega*



niner said:


> The one in the picture is IMR battery. I pushed pretty hard, but no good. Again, all AW batteries that work with last batch of Megalennium don't work with this one. Did you change the design? or I'm unlucky and got another bad one.


*If none of batteries work, you may send it back for replacement.*


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## niner (Apr 18, 2009)

I "enhanced" the contact by putting a little bit of silver solder on the contact. Now it works as it should be.


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## QtrHorse (May 5, 2009)

Ok, it seems as if I'm having this same problem now. The light worked fine for about 20 cycles and then nothing. The bulb works in other M heads and the AW switch works in SF tailcaps. I am using AW protected cells, not IMR's.

Tell me if this makes any sense. 

I can take a DC reading from the one positive cell top and one of the negative cell bottoms in the body and get a reading of 8.3V. I then try the other negative cell bottom and get nothing. I get 4.15V when I touch this same negative bottom that did not work with the other positive top and then touch the outer edge of the of the body. 

I also did the same as Niner by testing a cell in each slot and they all gave a good reading without applying any pressure to them.

I'm guessing this is correct? Are there some other readings I should be taking? 

What else could be wrong with the light that would keep it from working?


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## Cheesy (May 6, 2009)

QtrHorse said:


> Are there some other readings I should be taking?



Try measuring between the pointy bit on the lamp ***'y contact plate and the cup on the tail plate where the tailcap spring sits, you should get ~12V


Kev.


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## QtrHorse (May 6, 2009)

Cheesy said:


> Try measuring between the pointy bit on the lamp ***'y contact plate and the cup on the tail plate where the tailcap spring sits, you should get ~12V
> 
> 
> Kev.


 
If you mean like below, I get just what the meter shows in that picture unless I apply a lot of even pressure to that tailcap plate. After doing this and having to apply that much even pressure with both hands, I'm guessing the tailcap plate is not making contact with all the cells. There is no way the tailcap spring could be applying as much pressure as I did.

I guess my only option is to do as niner did and apply a little solder to those brass tabs on the tailcap plate?


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## DM51 (May 7, 2009)

QtrHorse, I had a brief problem with one of my Megalenniums (should that be Megalennia? lol) and there could be 2 things causing it. 

First: It is possible that the shrink-wrap on the battery is preventing a proper contact, where it wraps round the –ve end of the cell. FM’s brass contacts on the tail and head plates do not stand up very “proud” of the delrin plate. This is well illustrated by niner in posts #14 and #19 above, and his “solder blob” fix is a very good solution. Another solution would be a thin neodymium magnet on the –ve end of each cell.

Second: The head contact-plate may not be fully “home” against the head end of the body tube. A solution that worked for me: I loaded the tube with 3 cells and screwed the tailcap fully on, as normal, then without the bezel attached, I whacked the head end down quite sharply on to my mouse-mat (i.e. with the tailcap upwards). The jolt must have seated the head contact-plate better, as it worked perfectly after that and continues to do so. I recommend a mouse-mat for this, rather than a hard surface that might cause damage.

One or other of these 2 solutions (or possibly both) may work for you – please let us know.


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## QtrHorse (May 8, 2009)

I tried the whacking of the head end down a couple of times with no luck.

I will fire up the old soldering station this weekend and see if the little dab of solder helps.

I am just a very tiny bit dissapointed with this. I finally get my long awaited 1185 M6 clone and this happens.


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## Lunal_Tic (May 8, 2009)

I wonder if FM could have some new contact tabs made that would fix this problem. It'd be a more elegant fix than blobs of solder methinks. Is it only the second run of these with the problem? I've not had any problems with my first body and am waiting on the second one now.

-LT


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## QtrHorse (May 8, 2009)

Lunal_Tic said:


> I wonder if FM could have some new contact tabs made that would fix this problem. It'd be a more elegant fix than blobs of solder methinks. Is it only the second run of these with the problem? I've not had any problems with my first body and am waiting on the second one now.
> 
> -LT


 
I would prefer a new contact plate rather than a ball of solder as well but that most likely will not happen with only a handfull of us having this problem.

My host is from the first run.


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## brunt_sp (May 17, 2009)

nfetterly said:


> .........when I put the switch in it is a little loose - the locking ring won't go down anymore without the switch there.
> Suggestions?


 Mine was the same, the AW switch was not secured properly even when the locking ring was fully screwed down. 
I think we have ascertained in this thread that this is not the cause of the connection problem, but nevertheless I have to report that rubbing the tail end of the retaining ring for 10 seconds on a piece of sandpaper makes the switch secure.


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## jaundice (Jun 5, 2009)

*Help! My Fivemega Megalenium Won't Work*

I ordered a Fivemega Megalenium, which arrived recently. It's beautiful, as expected. However, I can't get it to work. I'm running an 1185 bulb in a Fivemega bi pin MN holder.

Along with the Megalenium body, I ordered 3 new AW 2200 Mah 18650 batteries. I just received them this afternoon, so I threw them in the Megalenium, and nothing happened. I re-checked the position of the cells, and they're correctly installed. I got out my voltmeter, and checked each position, and all have conductivity. The issue appears to be the negative contacts aren't tall enough to hit the (slightly) recessed negative terminal on the batteries. I had my wife push down on the tail battery holder, and with enough pressure, I was getting conductivity. But even with the tailcap screwed all the way in, there wasn't enough pressure to hit the negative terminals of the batteries, and no light.

Oh, I bought one of the Megaleniums with the installed clicky switches.

What should I do to get it working?

Thanks,

-John


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## Drywolf (Jun 5, 2009)

*Re: Help! My Fivemega Megalenium Won't Work*

You could put a solder blob on the three contacts. I think someone already described this fix. I'll search for it.
Frank


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## jaundice (Jun 5, 2009)

*Re: Help! My Fivemega Megalenium Won't Work*

Thanks, Drywolf, I appreciate it!

Btw, I'm not bummed out at all. I know that when you buy custom/bleeding edge stuff, sometimes you have to work out some glitches.

Also, are there any other fixes out there? I'm not very good with a soldering iron.

-John


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## Drywolf (Jun 5, 2009)

*Re: Help! My Fivemega Megalenium Won't Work*

I have one and it is great. When I ordered new 18650s from AW, I asked him for high buttons. He did find three and mine works without issues. But my three older 18650s have to be switched around to find the perfect connection. Good LucK!
Frank


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## Drywolf (Jun 5, 2009)

*Re: Help! My Fivemega Megalenium Won't Work*

Try this

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2924708&postcount=19


https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/229423


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## jaundice (Jun 5, 2009)

*Re: Help! My Fivemega Megalenium Won't Work*

Drywolf:

Wow, great advice! I ended up switching around my cells in an orderly fashion, and after a couple of rotations, IT WORKS! No additional tinkering needed.

My AW cells are brand-new, just got them today, so they're not old. But I didn't think to ask about getting high buttons. It never occurred to me, but next time I order, I'll ask.

Thanks again!

-John


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## DM51 (Jun 6, 2009)

*Re: Help! My Fivemega Megalenium Won't Work*

I'm merging this thread with the one linked by Drywolf, so we can keep a record of these problems in one thread.


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