# BEAMSHOTS ADDED How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D BEAMSHOTS ADDED



## TKO (Aug 28, 2008)

*The Sleeper*​

We are issued 5D's as a back up to our SL-20's at work. Like it's owner the 5D was a bit heavy and none to bright, so I decided to play a bit.

I took a couple of measurements and figured that five A123's would just fit in the barrel of the light.


After purchasing the cells, I ran to a local hardware and found that 1” Schedule 40 fit the inside of my 5D like it was made to be there and that the A123 fit inside the pipe with their provided cardboard covering off. So, I had my carrier. 









I had a local shop shrink wrap the cells. I then cut the PVC to a length just long enough to allow the tailcap to tighten the whole way down while leaving a couple of millimeters space, so I wasn't compressing the switch and threw it together for a test fit . . . no rattles or movement at all:




















I then, shamelessly, stole RichS's modification of Northern Lights original tailcap modification:









To finish the build I added one of AW's three level soft start switches, a FiveMega MOP reflector, a Borofloat lens and an Osram 150W 64633. I then topped off the A123's on my BC-6 charger threw the switch and WOW!


Some observations:


Five A123's weigh about ¾ pounds less than five alkaline D's. (70 grams vs 139), so this thing feels like a completely different light.


The 64633 floods like nothing I have ever seen. It is amazing the area this thing covers with white brilliant light.


This thing will light off dark print newspaper in all three gears.


Charging at 5 amps takes no time at all. I giggle with amazement when the BC-6 chimes to let me know that the cells are ready.


The A123's are amazing! There is no visible dimming and they hold the same level of light because of their flat discharge curve, so this light seems regulated. When things dim, the cells are around 2.9 volts and it is time to charge.


Many thanks to Lux for his research into what the various incandescent bulbs can handle, to Northern Lights and RichS for the tailcap mod, to FiveMega for a great reflector and to AW for his fine switch (and for telling me that I had the cells in backwards, dooh!).


Time to go burn some more stuff!


*BEAMSHOTS*


Okay, here are some comparison beamshots taken at 7ft:


Cocoa colored wall







Malkoff M60F







WA1164 @ 1300 + Lumens






The Sleeper at 7000 + Lumens (white thermostat disappears:thumbsup


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## lctorana (Aug 28, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*

That is a great mod. Up there with the best. You made it sound so easy...

If your going to carry something as big as a 5D Mag, make it bright enough to be worthwhile.


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## SafetyBob (Aug 28, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*

I have to agree that the reshrink wrapping of the cells really makes them look nice. So far I have left my Emoli's in the cardboard wrapper. It would be nice to make them look better. 

I had to bore my 1" PVC out in order for the Emoli's to fit. Your lucky you didn't have to have that fun.....

Bob E.


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## TKO (Aug 28, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*

lctorana,

Thank you for your kind words.

Even though the physical size is the same, the drastic reduction in weight makes the light seem "smaller".

On the lowest setting, the light is surprisingly usable (most likely due to flood characteristics), and the capability to ramp things up when needed is a nice option.



Bob,

I sure am glad that I didn't have to bore my PVC out. The fit was perfect.

Was your pipe schedule 40?


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## jeffosborne (Aug 28, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*

Wow - good job! That's thinking outside the box. What is the run time at various levels? And could we get a beam photo? We would all like to see. Cheers, Jeff


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## Shreknow91 (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*

Those are the 18650 cells correct?


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## TorchBoy (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*

Top job, well done. And nice write-up. I'm curious to know runtimes too.


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## VanIsleDSM (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*

Beamshots? I'm curious to see. Sounds amazing.

I don't know much about incans, but how do you get 7000 lumen from 150W? That's over 46lm/W. I know you can overdrive them for higher CCT and more efficiency, but to that extent? how long will the bulb last?


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## TKO (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*



jeffosborne said:


> Wow - good job! That's thinking outside the box. What is the run time at various levels? And could we get a beam photo? We would all like to see. Cheers, Jeff



Jeff,

I haven't really clocked it but doing the math using a 12 amp draw run times are approximately 11 minutes on high, 19 minutes on medium and 38 minutes on low.

I'll do beamshots after I invest in a welder's mask. :laughing:


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## TKO (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*



Shreknow91 said:


> Those are the 18650 cells correct?




No, they are 26650.


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## TKO (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*



TorchBoy said:


> Top job, well done. And nice write-up. I'm curious to know runtimes too.



Thanks. See my response to Jeff for approximate runtimes.


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## Raoul_Duke (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*



Shreknow91 said:


> Those are the 18650 cells correct?



I'm guessing they are 26650 A123's


Good Effort TKO! 
The AW switch obviously takes care that these fully charged, as A123 start at 3.6V, but drop to 3.3V almost instantly. I always liked the look of the flat A123 discharge curve...and matched to the 64633 you coulden't be driving it harder in a DD set up. One of my favorite lamps also!!:thumbsup:

Very good.:devil:

The other nice things about A123 is they can be run flat ( only if its a suitably high drain such as 64633, and , and charged up by a Ram instead of a battery charger. 

How long ~ roughly ~ does the BC6 take to charge them?... And is that just in series all in the one PVC Tube/ holder?


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## TKO (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*



VanIsleDSM said:


> Beamshots? I'm curious to see. Sounds amazing.
> 
> I don't know much about incans, but how do you get 7000 lumen from 150W? That's over 46lm/W. I know you can overdrive them for higher CCT and more efficiency, but to that extent? how long will the bulb last?



I don't know much about incans, either. If it wasn't for the people I mentioned in the original post, this thing would never burned it's first newspaper.

Osram lists the bulb at 150 watts at 15 volts. I am overdriving the bulb with 16.5 volts ish.

Check out Lux's thread : 

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/179748

and look up the 64633 for bulb life at different voltages and lumen out put.


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## TKO (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*



Raoul_Duke said:


> I'm guessing they are 26650 A123's
> 
> 
> Good Effort TKO!
> ...



Raoul,

Thanks!

It took around 20 minutes to full charge from 2.5 volts on a single cell at 5 amps. I haven't charged them in series, yet, but I will as soon as I build a "battery clamp".

The next time I charge I will write down the starting voltage and record the actual time and let you know.

The 64633 is an awesome thing at 16.5 volts!


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## Raoul_Duke (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*



TKO said:


> The 64633 is an awesome thing at 16.5 volts!




Your not wrong, 

I guess I will have to get some A123's for my 7C and beat the hell out of my AW C switch. ( AW C is rated lower than D )
I was to concerned the 64633 would  on 5 emoli so never tried that lamp on the current 7C set up.


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## TKO (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*



Raoul_Duke said:


> Your not wrong,
> 
> I guess I will have to get some A123's for my 7C and beat the hell out of my AW C switch. ( AW C is rated lower than D )
> I was to concerned the 64633 would  on 5 emoli so never tried that lamp on the current 7C set up.



I would be interested to see how the AW C switch handles things as it officially rated for up to 100 watts. It will certainly be screaming for mercy with the 64633 on top of a bunch of A123's.

I bet 5 emoli would blow the bulb in any DD setup. 18.5 nominal voltage would be a bit much


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## vestureofblood (Sep 1, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*

Nice light,

I have a couple of noob questions though. I have heard that what you guys are doing to get those batteries is take them from a battery pack. So question one is which pack do you get the 26650s like this from? And more importantly do they have an individual PCB on them?


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## TKO (Sep 1, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*



vestureofblood said:


> Nice light,
> 
> I have a couple of noob questions though. I have heard that what you guys are doing to get those batteries is take them from a battery pack. So question one is which pack do you get the a123s like this from? And more importantly do they have an individual PCB on them?




The cells that I used were not from a pack. I purchased individual cells here: http://aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=5041

If you want to salvage them from a pack, look for a Dewalt DC9360 36 volt battery. There will be ten cells inside.

There is no individual PCB on these cells and one is not needed as LiFeO4 is a safe lithium chemistry that does not exhibit thermal runaway.


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## vestureofblood (Sep 1, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*

Thanks TKO,

So do I need to use a smart charger for theese or will my exsiting charger due? Also does draining theese below a certain voltage harm the cell?


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## Raoul_Duke (Sep 1, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*

A couple of threads to wade through.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/203788

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2611608#post2611608

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/185950

what's your Current charger V.O.B?


A123 are cool....you can run flat & and recharge no problem at high loads, ( however discharge them slowly, say over a Fet switch, and you risk killing them.)

Dump the cell cappacity at crazy current draws. ( I dont know of amy mag mod lamp that need as much current.)

You can charge them at silly rates ( realy quick...you'd pay alot of money for a charger to match output /what they a123 can take.)

They don't blow up ( always nice )




But they have lower overall V & cappacity than Emoli etc. ( but Emoli have their down sides also.)


We switched to these type of cellss ( A123 & moli etc.) when we needed more current supplied to our hotwire lamps, and their inherant saftey 9 and availability at the time) over Li-ion cells.

On the subject of saftey though, if you had a stack of five A123 like this build in question, and managed to short one of the the pin holders with the body of the light ( unanodised section) the results would be impresive to say the least. 

( I did the same with a stack of 7 emoli, the big ones 26700, and the wire I was using on a V meter probe turned bright white and realy realy hot, in a split second before i pulled off.

I have also heard of a tailcap spring shorting between the +ve, and -ve of the base of one A123 cell, whilst screwing in the tailcap heat was felt, and before they could unscrew the tailcap again the mag spring had melted.

Lots of power...use wisely. :devil:


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## vestureofblood (Sep 1, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*

The charger I use the most is my 7.2v 1A charger that came with the KD 2x32500 D cell pack. I also have some cheap ones I use for my 18650s but none of them are a "smart" so right now all my cells are protected.

I thought I should look into some new cells because I My AW cells flash the bulb on my M*g 61 on a full charge, and I dont have a 100$ to buy a soft start. Mostly theese cells interest me bucause I just orderd some Osram 62475 (the 6v 35 watt) bulbs and Im not sure my AW Cs will do the job.


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## TKO (Sep 1, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*



vestureofblood said:


> The charger I use the most is my 7.2v 1A charger that came with the KD 2x32500 D cell pack. I also have some cheap ones I use for my 18650s but none of them are a "smart" so right now all my cells are protected.
> 
> I thought I should look into some new cells because I My AW cells flash the bulb on my M*g 61 on a full charge, and I dont have a 100$ to buy a soft start. Mostly theese cells interest me bucause I just orderd some Osram 62475 (the 6v 35 watt) bulbs and Im not sure my AW Cs will do the job.



If I remember correctly, AW recommends that you not exceed a 5 amp draw from his C cells. (Someone please correct me if this is wrong) If this is the case, you would probably be pushing them pretty hard with a 6v 35 watt bulb. A123's and Emoli, on the other hand, will handle the amp load of any bulb that you would try to put in a light.

Emoli would probably be a better option for you . . . they will handle big amp loads, still have a decent discharge curve and don't require a special charger like A123's do (3.6 volt termination).


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## bgiddins (Sep 2, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*

Would a mod like this be possible for a 4D maglight? Found one the other day while cleaning out moving boxes - was going to through a plain LED upgrade module in it, then I discovered this thread


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## TKO (Sep 2, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*



bgiddins said:


> Would a mod like this be possible for a 4D maglight? Found one the other day while cleaning out moving boxes - was going to through a plain LED upgrade module in it, then I discovered this thread


 
It would most certainly work! 

Four A123's would actually fit a 4D with quite well with the tailcap modification.

Then pick a bulb from here

Take a look at the following:thumbsup:: 62138, 64623, 64610, 64625

The schedule 40 PVC pipe would have to be cut to the correct length, but that's about it as far as changes go.

Good Luck and let me know how you make out.


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## Flipside (Sep 4, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*



Raoul_Duke said:


> Lots of power...use wisely. :devil:


 
Indeed... These 'little' cells will do 120A in a burst mode... That'll start your car. Easily.


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## TKO (Sep 4, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*



Flipside said:


> Indeed... These 'little' cells will do 120A in a burst mode... That'll start your car. Easily.


 

When I started this mod I first tried shortening the existing tailspring, I was excited about the prospect of 7000+ lumens and began playing around with the cells without the shrink wrap or cover  and I managed to short things out. I heard a nasty crackling noise and quickly unscrewed the couple of threads I had just managed to engage. The tailspring was so hot I had to drop it. I am quite sure it would have been glowing in no time.

That little incident prompted me to go with the tailcap mod pictured, as the contact patch will always remain centered with no chance of shifting and to quit all testing until those cells were shrink wrapped.

They are powerful indeed.


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## Burgess (Sep 4, 2008)

*Re: How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*

Wow, that's awesome !


_


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## TKO (Sep 10, 2008)

Beamshots added in original post.


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## HarryN (Sep 10, 2008)

That is a nice and easy mod - thanks for posting it.

I will admit that I am not entirely comfortable that people routinely put cells inside of plastic and paper tubes, then draw hard on them. By nature, cells get warm when charging and discharging - it seems like their should be a thermal path for some of that heat to get away from the cells.

At the risk of added mass, perhaps consider wrapping the cells in shrink wrap, then mounting them inside of an Al tube instead of a plastic one.


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## TKO (Sep 10, 2008)

HarryN said:


> That is a nice and easy mod - thanks for posting it.
> 
> I will admit that I am not entirely comfortable that people routinely put cells inside of plastic and paper tubes, then draw hard on them. By nature, cells get warm when charging and discharging - it seems like their should be a thermal path for some of that heat to get away from the cells.
> 
> At the risk of added mass, perhaps consider wrapping the cells in shrink wrap, then mounting them inside of an Al tube instead of a plastic one.



HarryN,

Thanks!

I charge the A123's (individually for now) at 5 amps and they do not feel warm when I disconnect them from the BC6. I have, however, felt quite a bit of warmth with NiMH and LiIon. A123's have an operational range of -30C to +60C.

I just ran the light on high (11.7 amp draw) for 2 minutes and removed the rearmost cell and it did not seem noticeably warm. Maybe someone with a thermistor and A123's can chime in here with an actual measurement as my hands are out of calibration.

Lux measured 198 degrees F 8mm below the bulb envelope when 16.5 volts was applied, so the head of the light definitely gets hot and some of this this heat, of course, eventually migrates down the body of the light. Due to the construction of the switch almost all of the heatsinking would be found between the flashlight body and the cells, so I feel that the PVC actually insulates the cells from heat from the body, which is far hotter than the heat in the cells.


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## N10 (Sep 10, 2008)

i was just wandering...about the runtimes you posted..the soft start AW switch isn't regulated from what i've read about it...are your runtimes kind of "regulated"..or as they usually say it here.."flat"?..very nice light though..!


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## TKO (Sep 10, 2008)

N10 said:


> i was just wandering...about the runtimes you posted..the soft start AW switch isn't regulated from what i've read about it...are your runtimes kind of "regulated"..or as they usually say it here.."flat"?..very nice light though..!



You are right that AW's switch is not regulated. Runtimes are approximate. 

The light behaves in a "regulated fashion" in that it runs with the same apparent output (with no discernible dimming) because of the LiFeO4 flat discharge curve they hold their voltage with very little "sag" until they are spent and then output drops off indicating time to charge. No gradual dimming.


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## TorchBoy (Sep 10, 2008)

TKO said:


> Okay, here are some comparison beamshots taken at 7ft:
> 
> Cocoa colored wall
> ...
> The Sleeper at 7000 + Lumens (white thermostat disappears:thumbsup


Ah, that's the kitchen in there. It was a bit too dim in the other pics. :twothumbs 

I would imagine that because of their very low internal resistance they wouldn't get very warm even at high currents.


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## lctorana (Sep 11, 2008)

What did the wife say about the huge burn mark you left on the wall?


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## Raoul_Duke (Sep 11, 2008)

I love the simplicity of this mod.

Just went into the "plant Room" at work and found some PCV pipe....might have to speak to my manager about him making a small donation to the cause. 

I like the idea that the PCV may isolate the cells from the heat of the body.

I may choose to run this in a 5D over the 7C as you may have a point there.

I guess the cell to check would be the one closest to the switch.

Not sure on the internal make up of the AW switch, but if it was a kiu switch the wires are directly connected and a direct heat path to the +ve on the front cell.
also heard of high resistance in the tailcap area at high current draws causing heat build up.

I didnt realise/ remember that the A123 cells were rated to 60 deg C

If the lamp has been measured a 95 deg C then with it being enclosed there may be more heat than we realised :thinking:

I doubt it makes that much difference, as 10~12A is not a big drain on these cells.....(having run 4 and 5 emoli in 6C 7C for some time and measuring cell temps ( by hand) they were warm but comfortable after a long run and HOT head) but it would be nice to know;
I think my cells were a little warmer after the light was turned off for a while, indicating that the close fit of the C body on the cells the cells were soaking up some of the heat not dissipated by the body.

Sorry to wander of topic but does anybody know Emoli 26700 temp ranges off the top of their heads?

Love this mod...Will have to build one just like it. :twothumbs


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## TKO (Sep 11, 2008)

lctorana said:


> What did the wife say about the huge burn mark you left on the wall?



LOL

Wall? What wall, honey? Now we can see into the kitchen.

She is used to me running around lighting things up.


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## TKO (Sep 11, 2008)

Raoul_Duke said:


> I love the simplicity of this mod.
> 
> Just went into the "plant Room" at work and found some PCV pipe....might have to speak to my manager about him making a small donation to the cause.
> 
> ...



Raoul,

If this mod wasn't simple, I wouldn't have been able to come up with it.

I checked LuxLuthor's Most Powerful Maglite Mod List and found that The Sleeper would rank #4 and hold the distinction of being the most powerful mag bodied mod on the list (#1 through #3 are Elephant body based mods) at least until someone comes up with something brighter.

There is flexibility with the mod, also. I plan on popping in an Osram 64447 IRC 65 watt for twice the runtime and still over 3700 lumens and only 100 or so degrees F at the bulb.

I have not noticed any heat issues in the tailcap area. Even with protracted use on High with the 64633 (11.7 amp draw).

Here is a thread that talks about insulating the heat in the bezel and potentially away from the cells using this material. I am going to order some and try it, as the head of the light gets quite hot and I can see where this heatsinks into the body.

There is some temperature data on page two of this pdf file concerning Emoli 26700. I am not sure if it will answer your questions, but I hope that it is helpful.

If you should build a Sleeper, let me know and good luck!


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## BVH (Sep 11, 2008)

Maybe a little expensive for just shrinkwrap, but the MEC Solderless Power Tubes come with what looks to be the exact same, ultra-thin wall shrink tubing you can install yourself. Works on the A123's and the Emoli's.

Search: Solderless Power Tubes


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## Raoul_Duke (Sep 11, 2008)

Dude...I'd go easy on the fibra frax or whatever insulation you use.

I would think a bit ( a circle or ring) around the base of the Kiu lamp holder/ wires / posts..would help keep the IR & heat that spills back from the reflector at bay...but I wouldent wrap the reflector in it or go to nuts.

It does hold back the heat...but that heat has to go somewhere.

I have seen (photos of) reflectors that melted on High heat lamps, that were packed with ceramic insulation and we are in that temp range.

I've been running the 64633 enough now in a 15.6V ( starts of hot some where in the 16V~17V region on a hot pack) 2D pack to be satified that the 2" aluminium reflectors can take the heat from the lamp...but they do use the air space betwwen that and the head to move some of that heat away.

On my modded switch under the Kiu socket was packed with fiber frax, and a bit on top of he kiu could haver been added, but I swapped it ot with an AW for the 3 levels and never got round to it.

Runs well enough on low for extended periods. 

Prehaps a bit between the cells and swich may help a bit...but then you still need a direct connection to the switch base...so unsure of the heat there.

I will do some testing when I get home in 2 weeks.





TKO said:


> Raoul,
> 
> If this mod wasn't simple, I wouldn't have been able to come up with it.
> 
> ...


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## TKO (Sep 11, 2008)

Raoul,

Thanks for the tip. I appreciate the advice and will forgo the insulation.

It was more an experimentation thing, anyway, as I have not had a real issue with heat.


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## Flashlight Aficionado (Jan 16, 2010)

TKO - I found D sized LiFePO4


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## TKO (Jan 16, 2010)

Nice find . . . I will have to look into these for the additional runtime and options that they may hold.

Thanks!


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## Conte (Jan 26, 2010)

Just tried this mod in a 6D with a specially made spacer. Sweet.

Try it in a 3D with 4xIMR26500 and you get the same effect. 

While I had the 6D rigged up, I tried 6xA123, hoping the current would sag it below 18volts (as rated on Lux's charts) using a softstart, but 

Another offering to the Gods of Lumens. :bow:


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## Raoul_Duke (Jan 27, 2010)

Conte said:


> Just tried this mod in a 6D with a specially made spacer. Sweet.
> 
> Try it in a 3D with 4xIMR26500 and you get the same effect.
> 
> ...




I stuffed 6 A123 into a 6D also, a while back but used the 64458, as knew 64633 would pop from lux's charts, 458 works well, but got to hot and melted the mag ( Kiu'd) switch after several long runs...., have Jimmy M regulator on the cards for a 6D 6 x A123 M1's, and 64633 :devil:


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## Paul1976 (Oct 14, 2012)

Hi, since i'm new here I cant send TKO the questions in a PM.
So I have to ask here.
I have a old Magcharger I want to bring back to life, and I want
to try this awesome mod. 

1. Can i use the original tailcap or do i need
a tailcap modification?
2. Should I use one of AW's three level soft start switches?
3. Can I use the original lens and reflector?
4. Is it possible to continue using the original charging system, maybee
by hocking it up with my imax B6 charger? I guess that the original
charger is out of the question, since we're talking about much more power
than the 6volt's it used to be.
5. Are A123 battery's the same as CR123A?
6. Where can I buy these parts?

I hope someone can be helpfull with these questions, that whould really make my day  I will be using the magcharger at work, working at night as a security officer. So the weight and the size of the mag are perfect for me, because I am not allowed to use any kind of weapon at my kind of work in Norway.

I will be happy for every response i get.

Paul.


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## darkknightlight (Oct 15, 2012)

*Re: BEAMSHOTS ADDED How To Lose 3/4 Pound and Gain 7000 Lumens in a 5D*



Paul1976 said:


> Hi, since i'm new here I cant send TKO the questions in a PM.
> So I have to ask here.
> I have a old Magcharger I want to bring back to life, and I want
> to try this awesome mod.
> ...



Welcome 

May i recommend that you read the threads of interest sticky in the flashlight electronics-batteries included section; some of your battery questions will be answered there. Also, using the google search function in the upper left of this window search for mag charger mods lineage. That thread offers some good ideas for incan mods to your light.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## Paul1976 (Oct 16, 2012)

Hi darkknightlight, I found outthe battery question from wikipedia.
I allready googled for this mod, and this is the mod i would like to try out.
It looks like this is the most effective mod that I can do without a
machine shop. 

This really is a great forum, I am learning a lot from this site. Yesterday I bought a drop in module for my old Peli M6 lithium, I bought a Ultrafire XM-L 750 lumen T6 CREE LED module. Cant wait to test it out   I did order some AW and some Nitecore batteries for the Peli also, wanted to try some more expensive batteries. Because most of the batteries ive tried from ebay was china junk.

Paul.


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## darkknightlight (Oct 16, 2012)

I'm glad to read that you were able to find out some information on batteries. I recommend reading around a few more threads, because I am unsure of my answers to some of your questions. If you are set on doing this particular mod, I assume you are going to source 4 IMR26500 batteries? If so, you will likely see only a few (8 or 9) minutes of runtime from this mod; though it could be even lower because of the 10+ amp draw on the batteries. To be completely honest, I'm not sure this is a mod you can actually do in a Magcharger. I know you'll need a new bulb holder assembly to do it in the Magcharger, but I don't know if there are any made that are compatible with your host. You will also need to shorten the tail spring or remove it entirely in order to fit 4 IMR 26500 batteries in there. I believe the Magcharger has an aluminum reflector already, so you might be able to use the original reflector with some boring of the entrance to allow the 64633 bulb to fit. Also, using a soft-start with a bulb this powerful is probably a good idea. Like I said, I'd read around on a few more threads to see if you can find better answers than the ones I am giving you. Good luck!


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## fivemega (Oct 16, 2012)

Paul1976 said:


> I have a old Magcharger I want to bring back to life, and I want
> to try this awesome mod.
> 
> 1. Can i use the original tailcap or do i need
> ...



*This mod is for 5D M*g and does NOT work for M*gCharger.
Body size, head, switch, bulb holder, head and reflector of M*gCharger is totally different than 5D M*g. Tail caps are identical.
AW never made any three level soft start switch for M*gCharger. 
Google search for M*gCharger mod will give you better result.*


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