# Nitecore EA4 Ballooned/Melted switch Repair Write-Up



## macgyver35 (Jun 14, 2013)

For everyone having issues with a ballooned/melted switch on the Nitecore EA4:

This switch melting problem seems to be a fairly common issue for these lights. Google search for "Nitecore EA4 melted switch" and you'll find several hits. It is unclear yet whether this is caused by air expansion due to heat, battery venting, or both. In my case I had the light off in its holster with Primaries in it and it swelled and deformed pretty quickly. I'd never had any issues before running primaries or rechargeables, so I'm inclined to think that it is trapped air inside the light expanding and causing the issue.


After about an hour inside my vehicle on an 87 degree day my switch swelled up and distorted badly to the point of being non-functional. It looked like a festering boil on a rhino’s backside. Mentioning this problem to Nitecore on their Facebook page got a dismal response. The text from the June 12th, 2013 post is as follows:


I left my Nitecore EA4 in the passenger seat of my car while I grabbed some lunch yesterday. It was about 87 degrees; not terribly hot. When I got back to work and pulled the light out of the holster, the power button was swollen and melted and the light no longer worked at all. The light was turned off and in its holster while it was in the car. I own over 60 different flashlights (I'm a member of www.candlepowerforumscom and edcforums.com), and this had quickly become one of my favorite lights. How do I go about getting it repaired/replaced? Thank you!
Like · · Wednesday at 3:35pm
Nitecore likes this.
Write a comment...


Nitecore: Hi Tom, you could try go back to where you purchased your EA4 and ask them if they have some spare parts to buy or repair.
Like · Reply · Yesterday at 7:50am



I bought mine on Amazon about two months prior, so I was past the point of returning it to them. Feeling like I had nothing to lose, I decided to see if I could fix the bugger myself. After an embarrassing attempt to unscrew what I thought were two different sections of the body, I figured it out. Everything comes out the front.


The other important part is that you will need some kind of rubber boot to take the place of the ruined one. Given the design flaw, I’m not sure that a factory part is your best option. In my case, I used the switch boot from one of my cheap AAA DX lights; specifically the Richuang RC-7001, which runs $2.90. Other AAA clicky boots may work as well.

_*Please note that I make no guarantees that you will not further damage your light be following these instructions. What worked for me may not work for you. Some force is required to dislodge the main board/LED assembly, and this force could crack the driver board. I will not be held responsible for anyone causing damage to themselves or their lights by following these instructions, which you do at your own risk.
*_

Now back to the Nitcore…


Referencing the excellent images in this post will help you understand the rest of the instructions.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?351365-Nitecore-EA4-Pioneer-review-(cool-white)&p=4111468&viewfull=1#post4111468





Unscrew the silver bezel at the lens. 
Take out the clear flat gasket. 
Remove the glass lens. 
Using a sharp point of some kind, carefully pry the black o-ring off the top of the reflector. Unless you take this off first, the reflector is hard to get out, and if forced out, could damage the o-ring. 
Remove the reflector. Be careful as there is a small round black disk at the base of the reflector, about 1/3 inch in diameter, with a square hole in the middle of it, the goes around the LED. 
Remove the large white ring that sits on top the heat sink board. It is beveled on the edges, so pay attention to which way it comes out. 
At this point, take a 6” extension for a socket wrench and insert it into the battery end of the light until it meets the black insulating plate that fits around the battery contacts on the back of the driver board. Using steadily increasing pressure, push the extension until the driver board, heat sink board, and LED and star come out as one unit. They are assembled onto a clear plastic housing that keeps them together. 
As you remove the above assembly, be careful to watch for a rectangular clear plastic piece and very small black plastic plunger that together make up the mechanical part of the switch. They may fall out. If not, you can remove them by applying pressure to the outside of your swollen switch cover until the pop loose inside the light housing. 
In my case, I had to carefully shave the base of the RC-7001 switch boot as it was about twice as thick as the factory boot. Patience and a very sharp single-edged razor blade worked for me. 
Now you can reassemble in the reverse order. The rectangular clear plastic piece has the very small black plastic piece inserted into its center hole from the top side (wide part facing up towards the boot). This little black plunger is what actually makes contact with and actuated the electric switch attached to the main board/LED housing. 
 Then slip the boot over the top and around the raised ring molded for it. Insert this assembly back in the main light housing and press it into the boot hole until it seats firmly. The clear plastic piece’s ends should be touching or nearly touching the metal light housing. 
Insert the black insulating disk that goes around the battery contacts, and be sure to orient it properly based on where the springs will be once the main board/LED assembly is reinstalled. 
Put the driver/LED assembly back in carefully. You have to get a straight on shot or it will hang up crooked on the threads. I found that rolling up a piece of paper and sticking it in the housing and using it a cylindrical shoehorn helped. 
Press the assembly in as far as it will go and test the action of the switch before putting the rest of the light together. It should feel something like the factory switch, with maybe a bit more travel before it engages. If you replacement boot is considerably taller than the factory boot, you may want to put some kind of hard spacer inside the boot to take up the slack. 


You should be good to finish on your own from here. Until Nitecore makes the decision to step up and address this gross design flaw on what is otherwise a simply stellar light, this may be of help to some. Hopefully they will see this post, among others of those having this same issue, and change the design.


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## shelm (Jun 15, 2013)

macgyver35 said:


> Given the design flaw, I’m not sure that a factory part is your best option.



ye.
why replace something which had failed on you with the identical Nitcore replacement part? 
spare third-party rubber boots can be purchased from online stores, no prob.


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## Trevtrain (Jun 15, 2013)

macgyver35 said:


> For everyone having issues with a ballooned/melted switch on the Nitecore EA4:
> 
> 
> .......The other important part is that you will need some kind of rubber boot to take the place of the ruined one. Given the design flaw, I’m not sure that a factory part is your best option. In my case, I used the switch boot from one of my cheap AAA DX lights; specifically the Richuang RC-7001, which runs $2.90. Other AAA clicky boots may work as well.........



Firstly, thanks macgyver35 for a very detailed post which should be useful to many other EA4 owners, if not right now then certainly the first time they forget and leave it in a car. 87F is certainly not hot compared to what we get here in summer. When it is over 110 in the shade, the inside of a car must be terrible and it isn't always possible to park in the shade or leave the windows down.

I will be loathe to carry my damned EA4 out of the house in summer for fear of this nonsense. It's a great light let down by a stupid flaw. Even more stupid of Nitecore to dismiss or minimise the issue. I even read in here that they advise putting pinholes in the boot as a means to address the problem. Don't know how this would help with the melting part though.

One thing I'd really like to know is the dimensions of the boot you used. It's helpful of you to say where you found one, but if it was possible to get exact measurements I think this would be even better.

No offence to shelm, but simply saying "oh yeah you can get boots online no problem" is not much of a contribution.

It may be too late for you to do this for us now if you've already fitted the replacement, but I had to ask.

Thanks again for this info.

I can't understand why more people haven't taken an interest in this thread even to say a simple thank you. :shrug:


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## Cereal_Killer (Jun 15, 2013)

Thankfully my EA4 hasn't shown any signs of having this problem but I'm bookmarking it. Thank you for the write up. With how popular the EA4 is I vote for making this a sticky.

I wish this problem would have been more talked about before I purchased mine, had it been I wouldnt have ever bought it. Even tho mine hasn't ballooned yet how can I trust it not to after all of them that are.


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## Showmethelight (Jun 15, 2013)

Trevtrain said:


> I can't understand why more people haven't taken an interest in this thread even to say a simple thank you. :shrug:



I think it has to do with the ratio of working EA4's vs those that balloon, has anyone done a count of how many reported balloonings/malfunctions of the switch have actually occurred? Is it like 8 over a 43 page thread? The reason why many are not being as fast to give thanks is most likely the majority are working well... Add in the fact a person with a negative experience is doubly likely to report it than one with a positive. Just food for thought, people go so far now on the forum as to say the EA4 can barely handle heat, really? My two have been near too hot to hold in hand when running for 20 minutes+, no issue, my cool white had to be one of the first 1000 off the line, my NW same for the tint.


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## macgyver35 (Jun 16, 2013)

Showmethelight said:


> I think it has to do with the ratio of working EA4's vs those that balloon, has anyone done a count of how many reported balloonings/malfunctions of the switch have actually occurred? Is it like 8 over a 43 page thread? The reason why many are not being as fast to give thanks is most likely the majority are working well... Add in the fact a person with a negative experience is doubly likely to report it than one with a positive. Just food for thought, people go so far now on the forum as to say the EA4 can barely handle heat, really? My two have been near too hot to hold in hand when running for 20 minutes+, no issue, my cool white had to be one of the first 1000 off the line, my NW same for the tint.



As the person who wrote the write-up, I think the fact that more people haven't jumped on this thread is due more to the fact that, at this point, it's only been up for 48 hours. And on Father's Day weekend to boot. I don't know what the percentage of switch failures has been, but part of my drive for doing the write-up is to eventually try and capture those numbers in a more meaningful and accurate way.

I do appreciate the feedback and kind words from those thus far. I only ask that if you hear of anyone else having this problem that you kindly direct them to this thread and ask them to chime in so we can hopefully get some response out of Nitecore on this.


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## Light Brite (Jun 16, 2013)

Yup, similar story here. Left my EA4 which is about 2 months old in the car with an outside ambient temp of about 90 degF. I went to grab the light to do a home inspection and sure enough a ballooned switch. So frustrating because I really was looking for this to be my go to work horse light. Now I have the light apart, easy enough to do once you remove the pressed in Heat Sink. Now the question is how do I want to repair it. It would be nice if Nitecore stepped up and made available some type of repair option available to at least to those willing to give it a go. I am not to thrilled about putting the same inferior switch design back. My brother was looking to buy an EA8 and my advice was stay clear.


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## Verndog (Jun 17, 2013)

Showmethelight said:


> I think it has to do with the ratio of working EA4's vs those that balloon, has anyone done a count of how many reported balloonings/malfunctions of the switch have actually occurred?



Agreed. I've watched this issue pretty closely and am pretty confident there are less then 10 persons reporting this issue here on CPF. By far the majority of users are not. Both mine are working well, and this light takes heat just fine, run on high a while and temps will far exceed the temps a couple with problems posted here. Mine however will NEVER balloon as I poked 3 small holes with a hot needle in mine to avoid the possibility.


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## sticktodrum (Jun 17, 2013)

I had the exact same issue on my EA4, finding it melted in the trunk of my car on the road trip down to Blade Show. My buddy and I got to a rest stop at around 3 a.m. and decided to play with the lights I brought with me, and the EA4 came right out of the holster with a molten wart where the button used to be. So, this write-up is quite valuable, and I thank you for it sir.


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## Light Brite (Jun 17, 2013)

I will add for informational puposes only that I used a different method of dissassembling my EA4. I make no assertion that it is a better method or less likely to create an issue when dissassembling the light. After removing the bezel and reflector, I unsoldered the two LED leads from the star. I then lifted the star off the heat sink. I placed a small hook shaped tool behind the cut out on the heat sink and pulled the heat sink out. It did take a fair amount of force to free it but it did not bend the heat sink. The circuit board assembly is then free to lift out with your fingers. The switch piston (offending part) will then just press out of the body tube with your finger. Hope this helps with different ideas. Now the fix! I do wonder with the warmer months comming if we will hear more about this issue. Althought it was 90 degF outside my car, I am sure it was considerably warmer inside it when the switch failed. I would also note that the light was loaded with Eneloops for FWIW


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## markr6 (Jun 17, 2013)

86° and sunny right now...I'm real tempted to throw my EA4 in the Jeep to see what happens. Hmm...do I satisfy my curiosity or possibly become irate and ruin my night?


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## Divine_Madcat (Jun 17, 2013)

markr6 said:


> 86° and sunny right now...I'm real tempted to throw my EA4 in the Jeep to see what happens. Hmm...do I satisfy my curiosity or possibly become irate and ruin my night?



I sure wouldn't risk it....


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## Light Brite (Jun 18, 2013)

Divine_Madcat said:


> I sure wouldn't risk it....



I wouldn't risk it either at least without placing a needle hole in the side of the boot as was the suggested fix by others. Would be nice to know the switch is no longer an issue and never having to think twice about is my light in a cool enough environment...


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## bgyen (Jun 18, 2013)

Be cool if you could film it too. Actually, you probably could just keep an eye on it, and if it starts ballooning a bit, you could stop (or for science/documentation keep going).

No problems with my 2 EA4 so far (knock on wood [hope I didn't just jinx myself by saying that]). If my buttons balloon, I hope Nitecore will be courteous enough to send out a new button.


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## Divine_Madcat (Jun 18, 2013)

Light Brite said:


> I wouldn't risk it either at least without placing a needle hole in the side of the boot as was the suggested fix by others. Would be nice to know the switch is no longer an issue and never having to think twice about is my light in a cool enough environment...



Again.. the way the boots are melting suggests it is only heat,not so much pressure causing the failures. The rubber on these are very thin, and it wouldn't take much to melt these things (as I have already found) . 

I mean, poking a hole may help at first.. but as the rubber melts, it may reseal any hole like that anyway..


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## dougw (Jun 18, 2013)

I do hope Nitecore is actively seeking a different material for the button cover and will supply the upgraded one to any who encounter a failure or who ask for a replacement for that matter just in case it should happen. So far I have not had mine in a "hot car" but can understand the temps reached in full sun on a hot day even here in Canada.


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## HighlanderNorth (Jun 18, 2013)

I don't own one of these, because although no psychic, I have had a slight bad feeling about this light. Maybe it's because of the lower price than normal for a light of this caliber. But up til now most reviews have been good. However, I can't understand why these boots would be swelling or worse yet, melting at temps that would occur in a car on a day in the mid to high 80's! Is it made of chocolate? 

I just can't understand how rubber would melt at low temps like this, and I can't figure out what phenomenon would cause pressure to build up inside the light on a hot day. Now, if a car is parked in the sun on an 86 degree day(F), then the interior temp may rise to around 100 degrees or so, but that's still nowhere near hot enough to damage decent quality rubber or plastic, and shouldn't cause pressures to build inside the light, unless these lights are powered by hydrogen peroxide like the torpedoes in the Kursk, and it leaked onto some internal steel and reacted, causing high pressures. But last I checked, they still run on AA batteries, so I'm baffled. Unless the batteries are somehow swelling and leaking causing high pressure, which is extremely unlikely, excessive pressure doesn't seem likely.....

think about all the rubber and plastics inside the average auto, which experience high heat all summer long for years with little to no degradation for a long time. When you realize that, isn't it strange that just a short amount of time in that situation can cause degradation to the boot in this light?


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## Showmethelight (Jun 19, 2013)

HighlanderNorth said:


> I don't own one of these, because although no psychic, I have had a slight bad feeling about this light. Maybe it's because of the lower price than normal for a light of this caliber. But up til now most reviews have been good. However, I can't understand why these boots would be swelling or worse yet, melting at temps that would occur in a car on a day in the mid to high 80's! Is it made of chocolate?
> 
> I just can't understand how rubber would melt at low temps like this, and I can't figure out what phenomenon would cause pressure to build up inside the light on a hot day. Now, if a car is parked in the sun on an 86 degree day(F), then the interior temp may rise to around 100 degrees or so, but that's still nowhere near hot enough to damage decent quality rubber or plastic, and shouldn't cause pressures to build inside the light, unless these lights are powered by hydrogen peroxide like the torpedoes in the Kursk, and it leaked onto some internal steel and reacted, causing high pressures. But last I checked, they still run on AA batteries, so I'm baffled. Unless the batteries are somehow swelling and leaking causing high pressure, which is extremely unlikely, excessive pressure doesn't seem likely.....
> 
> think about all the rubber and plastics inside the average auto, which experience high heat all summer long for years with little to no degradation for a long time. When you realize that, isn't it strange that just a short amount of time in that situation can cause degradation to the boot in this light?



Seems like there is three camps, one has 10 members with melted rubber switches, the other has thousands without issue and the third is other people who don't own it...


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## Trevtrain (Jun 19, 2013)

Showmethelight said:


> Seems like there is three camps, one has 10 members with melted rubber switches, the other has thousands without issue and the third is other people who don't own it...



I think quoting your numbers is a bit flippant. 

Your attitude puzzles me a little - there is a clearly documented issue here with a faulty switch boot. It may be a statistically insignificant number in your opinion, but it is obviously a very real problem for those experiencing it. Just because you haven't had a problem (yet) doesn't make it an issue that Nitecore shouldn't be looking at. After all, have you ever heard of a similar problem with any other brand/model of light?

There seem to be two separate issues here. Some have reported ballooning of the switch and some have reported actual melting. But in either case, what type of company marketing an IPX-8 (two meters submersible) light would advise users to put holes in a rubber seal as a "solution?" What kind of answer is "see if your dealer has some spare parts to buy"!

Yes, it is very hard to understand or even speculate about the process that might be causing this. As HighlanderNorth points out, vehicles are full of other rubber and plastics that survive for years. I'm sure we all have other lights that are left in vehicles and haven't had melting rubber switch boots. So why the EA4? 

It could be that a small batch of switch boots or the rubber used to make them was contaminated or unintenionally exposed to some chemical that affected them. 
NiMH cells can vent hydrogen if reverse charged or overheated. Is there some weird combination of environmental/cell factors causing the cells to vent? The very thin rubber boot on the EA4 would obviously swell more readily than the thicker material used on the typical tailcap clicky. Doesn't really explain the melting rubber though unless some combination of heat and hydrogen is at play. I'm not sure how/what the primaries the OP had would vent.

I don't think anyone is saying "all" EA4s have this issue. But I'm willing to bet that more will show up over time.

Let's just hope your two lights keep on working for you.


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## markr6 (Jun 19, 2013)

I'm totally puzzled as well. Think of all the cheap plastic and rubber you put in your car...and even keep there ALL summer without touching it. For me, this includes $.99 rubber gloves, less-than-paper thin shopping bags, rubber on cheap keychain flashlight my local bank handed out (cheapest thing in the world)...yet all these hold up just fine.

Any chance people having issues are putting them in a warm car from a cold building? I wouldn't think it would cause that much pressure, but I noticed my empty orange juice carton expaned a TON after sitting out of the fridge for a few minutes this morning.


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## __philippe (Jun 19, 2013)

dougw said:


> _*I do hope Nitecore is actively seeking a different material for the button cover *_and will supply the upgraded one to any who encounter a failure or who ask for a replacement for that matter just in case it should happen...



I would like to believe it, but wouldn't hold my breath.

As of today, Nitecore appears to be in complete denial a problem even exist.

So far, all we have heard from Nitecore about the numerous EA4 melting switches cover incidents documented on CPF and other specialised forums worldwide is a deafening silence...except for their one inane suggestion to prick bulging covers with a needle...which is at best a cheap dodge to sidestep a potentially costly but essentially required redesign of a faulty component, and at worst a guaranteed way to compromise forever the switch water seal, never mind their formerly loyal customer's confidence. 

Idly musing about the number of flashlights enthusiasts who might, from now on, think twice before acquiring or recommending any more Nitecore products, until this issue is resolved in a professional way by the manufacturer ?

__philippe


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## Dirtbasher (Jun 19, 2013)

__philippe said:


> I would like to believe it, but wouldn't hold my breath.
> 
> As of today, Nitecore appears to be in complete denial a problem even exist.
> 
> ...



Well , I was lining up to buy the EC2, the SRT7 another EA1 and the SRT3.
Not any more!


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## Cereal_Killer (Jun 19, 2013)

__philippe said:


> I would like to believe it, but wouldn't hold my breath.
> 
> As of today, Nitecore appears to be in complete denial a problem even exist.
> 
> ...


i don't think they care, this isnt a first for them, I recall several other major problems with other lights of theirs, in those situations people were saying the same thing- "nitecore is forever tainted, people are going to stop buying their products" or this and that. Yet here we are again, same situation, people sayin the same thing. You know what's going to happen? Nitecore is going to come up wih a new light as good as the EA4, people are going to love it (even normal, non-flashlight people) and buy the poop out of it, then a new problem will come up just like this and the process will repeat. 

You know the best thing you can do to "show them"? DONT BUY THEIR PRODUCTS!


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## Divine_Madcat (Jun 19, 2013)

Cereal_Killer said:


> i don't think they care, this isnt a first for them, I recall several other major problems with other lights of theirs, in those situations people were saying the same thing- "nitecore is forever tainted, people are going to stop buying their products" or this and that. Yet here we are again, same situation, people sayin the same thing. You know what's going to happen? Nitecore is going to come up wih a new light as good as the EA4, people are going to love it (even normal, non-flashlight people) and buy the poop out of it, then a new problem will come up just like this and the process will repeat.
> 
> You know the best thing you can do to "show them"? DONT BUY THEIR PRODUCTS!



I got into flashlights after any previous problems.. not knowing about them. You can be certain that this is my one and only, and i will recommend against them in the future.


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## macgyver35 (Jun 19, 2013)

Having some experience working with different kinds of materials in different jobs, I'll offer up some observations/opinions:

1) Nitecore is, in the realm of those companies that you can actually get in touch with, now the worst I have ever dealt with on customer service. That doesn't help me fix my light, but if a company is going to build technologically advanced lights, play with the big boys in this market, and tout their products on a forum like this, and expect to be taken seriously, they need to get their crap together and start acting like they give a damn about their customers. That BS may fly in communist China, but not here.

2) Melting and deforming is heat. Ballooning is pressure. Now, the ballooning due to pressure may be helped along by heat making the plastic more pliable, but it still won't swell outward to three times it's normal size without some kind of pressure behind it. Since we have both, we have heat and pressure. It is a black light, in a black case, sitting in direct sun. It will get plenty warm. This is why I don't think they could have tested this in real-world conditions without realizing this would be a problem. You know, search a rescue folks are sometimes working forest fire situations, or other high temp environments. 

3) I really don't think this is a battery issue. Again, I had primaries in at the time. They were not leaking or melted.

4) There are dozens, if not hundreds of different types of commonly used plastic and rubber. There are thermo-forming plastics and thermo-setting plastics and rubbers. There are tumescent plastics that are actually designed to expand rapidly above a certain temperature. I have no idea what kind of plastic the factory switch cover is, but I can tell you that the top of it is pretty darn thin; likely around .0040 of an inch or less. Now add some swelling and it stretches even thinner, thus making it that much easier to permanently deform.

5) How hot the inside of a car gets in a given ambient temperature involves other factors. Like how much direct sunlight is entering the vehicle, what color the interior is (dark colors convert light to heat much better), if/how much window tint is present, and how much UV is in the light (different latitudes will vary even on the same day of the year). Two summers ago, Texas (where I live) had a record-breaking heat wave that lasted for weeks. It would regularly get up to 105-17 on those days, and coupled with 85%+ humidity, it was truly unbearable. Heat indexes in the 115-125 range. I actually hung an oven/grill thermometer from the rearview mirror of my Jeep Wrangler (tinted windows), and it got above 150 degrees in there every afternoon! I can tell you that on an 85 degree day here, the inside of my white Jeep Cherokee can probably get up to about 110-115 degrees. But still, none of my other lights are affected. Not even the cheap DX ones. Not to mention the backpack full of sensitive electronics I carry with me. I'm in IT and have a laptop, tablet, various portable hard drives, thumb drives, SD cards, network switches, cables, etc. Nothing has ever been damaged by staying in my car all day every day, for months or years on end. A freaking plastic Big Gulp cup, which is probably only about 3 thousands of an inch thick can sit in there all day unscathed.

At any rate, I would expect a $60 light to hold up better than that. And as others have pointed out, ruining the IPX integrity by poking holes in the switch boot, fixing one problem by creating another, is an insult to the product owner and an embarrassment to the manufacturer. Imagine if Honda told owners they could fix a melting power steering hose themselves by wrapping aluminum foil and duct tape around it!


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## macgyver35 (Jun 19, 2013)

I just started making some noise on Nitecore's Facebook page.


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## h2oflyer (Jun 19, 2013)

I like the AA format and looked at the EA4, but felt uncomfortable about the switch boot problem. Made the smartest flashlight buying decision ever and bought the Eagletac GX25A3. Better quality, smaller diameter, one less AA, same if not better throw. You get what you pay for, Nitecore has turned into crap.


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## Slazmo (Jun 19, 2013)

Argh - I find myself using my 2AA LED Maglite more these days than my EA4... Biggest flop purchase I've done in a long time. Pointless buying a torch like this for the typical Australian camper... I am going to put 4 pin pricks in the button cover to see if that helps.

macgyver35 - looks like they deleted your post mate - typical of a company that is on the denial train. Hope people see Nitecore for what it is - cheap Chinese crap.


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## macgyver35 (Jun 19, 2013)

Slazmo, my post on their page is still up; just have to scroll down a bit. I chose my words carefully based on a post I remembered them making a few days ago, and wanted to throw their own words back at them. If they do delete my post, I'll go ballistic on them!! I'll start posting 15 times a day. If they block me, I'll send private messages with a link to this thread to all their page visitors; they can't stop me from doing that. 

And as an aside, I sincerely hope to visit your country one day. From what I can tell and have been told (I have an uncle that spends his winters (your summers) there, and he loves it. It seems to be a far better place in many respects than what the US has become over the last 20 years. I'd consider retiring there, but I wouldn't be able to keep my small collection of firearms  

h2oflyer, that Eagletac looks nice, but almost $100 on Amazon is a bit steep right now. Especially since I just spent $60 on the EA4.


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## Slazmo (Jun 19, 2013)

Mac - looking but cant find it at all in the feed? Went all the way back to Aug 2012?


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## HighlanderNorth (Jun 19, 2013)

Nitecore and Jetbeam are owned by the same parent company right? So why not just use the same quality boots in the EA4 that they use in Jetbeam lights? Hmmmm

Isnt that the logical solution to this issue for them? I have owned or given away as gifts 5 Jetbeam lights and none of them have had these types of issues to my knowledge. 

Also, although I haven't left a light in my vehicle all day when it was hot(as far as I can remember at least), but I have left them in the sun on a hot day when I'd removed it from my pocket, and I haven't had problems with any internal pressure building up. So why would that be an issue with this particular light but not others? Most other lights are waterproof, and therefore air tight, so if there was a common heat related pressure increase, then shouldn't it be noticeable with other lights?


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## Slazmo (Jun 19, 2013)

While thinking quietly to myself - has anyone thought about automotive Sikaflex? Its black, sticks to just about anything and can be shaped and reapplied umpteen times if it peels off.

I was thinking if you could remove the boot that ballooned - scrape as much of the old boot out from that gap around the body - squeeze some all the way around - and dome it at the top with your finger dipped in water & washing dish liquid that should make a nice switch boot once dried.

It still doesnt fix the problem with gas venting but would make a good reliable simple boot fix?


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## macgyver35 (Jun 19, 2013)

It appears there are several pages related to Nitecore. I went with the one with the most 'likes". Perhaps I'm not on their official page, but it looks legit.

https://www.facebook.com/nitecorespecialist?fref=ts


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## Slazmo (Jun 19, 2013)

This looks like the official page which I am on - http://www.facebook.com/NitecoreFlashlight?fref=ts

Not as many likes but certainly the right customer feedback within regards to posts. No "bro's" and a lot of pigeon english in their replies. That other FB page seems to be someone acting upon their own will to have a FB page for Nitecore - maybe a distributor or retailer just pushing the product? Doesnt seem legit at all...


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## Trevtrain (Jun 20, 2013)

Slazmo said:


> While thinking quietly to myself - has anyone thought about automotive Sikaflex? Its black, sticks to just about anything and can be shaped and reapplied umpteen times if it peels off.
> 
> I was thinking if you could remove the boot that ballooned - scrape as much of the old boot out from that gap around the body - squeeze some all the way around - and dome it at the top with your finger dipped in water & washing dish liquid that should make a nice switch boot once dried.
> 
> It still doesnt fix the problem with gas venting but would make a good reliable simple boot fix?



I'm not familiar with this stuff but it sounds interesting.

Only thing that occurs to me is that replacing the boot with something from another light, or using the product you mentioned here may make the blue LED difficult/impossible to see.

I guess the blue indicator under the switch is not essential but too much goop covering it would probably render it invisible.

I wonder if this is why Nitecore made the rubber so thin in the first place?


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## Slazmo (Jun 20, 2013)

Trevtrain - have you been under a rock for the last 20 years lol... Everyone knows Sikaflex!?!? I get asked 20 times a day if we stock it at my local hardware store...

Like they say "It's simple... Overspecialise and you breed in weakness. It's slow death. Overspecialise and you compromise".

They made the rubber so thin so that they could gloat about this in switch voltmeter and 'see me' light which is pathetic in the first place... I have Nite Ize Maglite AA upgrades with the IQ switch - that rear clicker is rubber and see through, that rubber plastic is possibly 1000 times stronger / sturdier than the material found on the Ea4 switch...

Poor form Nitecore!


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## Light Brite (Jun 20, 2013)

I have a very extensive flashlight collection that I have put together over the years. Of all the lights I have and there are lots..this was initially one of my favorites for a number of reasons. Out of all of them this is now my biggest disappointment light! I am an Engineer and have access to machining equipement, etc and I will fix this problem. The time and effort it will take on my part to do this the way it should have been done by Nitecore from the start will be significant..Nitecore needs to step up and take a position, one way or the other.


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## Trevtrain (Jun 20, 2013)

Slazmo said:


> Trevtrain - have you been under a rock for the last 20 years lol... Everyone knows Sikaflex!?!? I get asked 20 times a day if we stock it at my local hardware store...



Well, I have been told I aughta get out more........


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## regulation (Jun 20, 2013)

HighlanderNorth said:


> Nitecore and Jetbeam are owned by the same parent company right? So why not just use the same quality boots in the EA4 that they use in Jetbeam lights? Hmmmm
> 
> Isnt that the logical solution to this issue for them? I have owned or given away as gifts 5 Jetbeam lights and none of them have had these types of issues to my knowledge.



They are not owend by the same parent company any more, thus, nitecore products are made from other manufacturer, not the same with jetbeam.


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## Slazmo (Jun 21, 2013)

Trevtrain said:


> Well, I have been told I aughta get out more........



Ha ha - its pretty cold here at the moment 12 degrees on the GC - could guess its freezing down there. Stay inside... Its safer!!!


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## Trevtrain (Jun 21, 2013)

Slazmo said:


> Ha ha - its pretty cold here at the moment 12 degrees on the GC - could guess its freezing down there. Stay inside... Its safer!!!



12 degrees - I wish!

At half past midnight last night there was a layer of ice over the roof of the car. Should make for motivation not to fall out of the canoe in tomorrow's downriver race! 

Edit: Just checked - same again now. Brrrrr...


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## Light Brite (Jun 21, 2013)

Maybe I missed this but does the EA8 have the same switch? Have there been reported problems with it?


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## Trevtrain (Jun 21, 2013)

Light Brite said:


> Maybe I missed this but does the EA8 have the same switch? Have there been reported problems with it?



I haven't heard of any yet but there was some controversy on "another forum" about the integrity of the heatsinking. The jury is still out for many people.

It's entirely likely that the problems with the EA4 will stop people considering the EA8. I know it did for me.


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## HighlanderNorth (Jun 21, 2013)

So from what you guys can tell, is the boot the primary problem here, and if they replace the boot with a better one, would that solve this particular problem altogether? Aside from that, are there any other reasons not to buy an EA-4?


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## Trevtrain (Jun 22, 2013)

HighlanderNorth said:


> So from what you guys can tell, is the boot the primary problem here, and if they replace the boot with a better one, would that solve this particular problem altogether? Aside from that, are there any other reasons not to buy an EA-4?



It seems no-one is quite sure about where the "pressure" causing the ballooning is coming from. Battery venting _*seems *_to have been ruled out so we are left with "trapped air" expanding. The melting issue is something else again.

Other than the boot issue, the EA4 is a great light. The beam is very nice and the light doesn't suffer thermal sag after the stepdown despite the apparent deficiencies in the design of the heatsinking.

The main reason some don't like it is the lack of a true low mode. Minimum (Micro) mode is still 65 lumens which is way too bright for those who like "moonlight". But to be fair, the EA4 _*is *_marketed as a "compact searchlight".

If I had to really nitpick, I'd mention that the lanyard attachment point makes tailstanding a bit wobbly as the light sits on the lanyard thread. This could probably be solved with a split ring.

Current opinion seems to be in favour of the Sunwayman D40A which is very similar in output and price point.


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## Dirtbasher (Jun 24, 2013)

Trevtrain said:


> It seems no-one is quite sure about where the "pressure" causing the ballooning is coming from. Battery venting _*seems *_to have been ruled out so we are left with "trapped air" expanding. The melting issue is something else again.
> 
> Other than the boot issue, the EA4 is a great light. The beam is very nice and the light doesn't suffer thermal sag after the stepdown despite the apparent deficiencies in the design of the heatsinking.
> 
> ...



I changed my lanyard to a thinner one that you can move , it now tail stands nicely.


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## Slazmo (Jun 25, 2013)

Trevtrain said:


> If I had to really nitpick, I'd mention that the lanyard attachment point makes tailstanding a bit wobbly as the light sits on the lanyard thread. This could probably be solved with a split ring.



If anyone wants a picture of how to do the lanyard - I can email you a picture I have of how I did my EA4. Email - why? Because I edit the image to 800x800 then put it on that photo website paste it to CPF and then be told that the image is larger than 800 x 800 and have it removed 2 seconds later... Argh lament...


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## arnold ziffle (Jun 25, 2013)

this fix was well beyond my capabilities. the rubber boot came off in one piece. I wrapped a narrow piece of blue duct around the light. it works and can still see the blue light. it's a little hard to find the button so I might glue a small piece of the old boot on it.


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## macgyver35 (Jul 4, 2013)

I find it sad and just a bit frustrating that not a single person involved with Nitecore has responded to this thread, any of the other threads related to this issue, or to my posts on their Facebook page. I'm buying a new house and met with the inspector earlier this week. While we were looking through the attic and inside cabinets and such, I noticed he was using an older incan Streamlight, and struck up a conversation about lights. As I pulled my Quark QPA and Akoray K-106 out of my pocket, and also showed him the Olight i2 EOS on my keychain, it occurred to me that here was a person who would use a flashlight every single day at work, and tell all their buddies and fellow inspectors about it, and I had no desire to even mention Nitecore to him. But I bragged like hell about the Quark and Olight, making sure to mention the 10 year warranty on the Quark. In this level, high end lights get popular, and thus bought, largely through word of mouth from people who have, use, and love them. If you said the name "Nitecore" to anyone in the general public in the US, 999 people out of 1000 would have no idea what you were talking about. By not responding to product issues within this group, Nitecore is hamstringing their primary channel for increased sales. If they would just do the right thing and address this issue, or even acknowledge it in any meaningful way..


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## Trevtrain (Jul 9, 2013)

Bumping this thread just to say that a new problem has surfaced with the switch boot. As these lights get older and having had more use, it seems the boot may develop cracks as the rubber deteriorates.

This issue was posted, with a photograph on another site. Unfortunately, I cannot say where lest my post be deleted.

Anyone know of a response from Nitecore yet?


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## atbglenn (Jul 9, 2013)

Here's a picture of my less than 1 year old lightly used EA4. Calvin from Illumination Supply told me he'd contact Nitecore. Lets see what happens. BTW, I've never experienced the ballooning problems others have had.


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## Trevtrain (Jul 9, 2013)

Thanks for posting this picture here as well.


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## __philippe (Jul 10, 2013)

Trevtrain said:


> ...a new problem has surfaced with the switch boot. As these lights get older and having had more use, it seems_* the boot may develop cracks as the rubber deteriorates. *_This issue was posted, with a photograph on another site...Anyone know of a response from Nitecore yet?



Great, the EA4 comedy of switch cover defects keeps marching on ...
.....first,....switch cover *ballooning*, then,...*melting*, ...and now *cracking* !...:shakehead

With each new failure report, it becomes more obvious the EA4 boot cover material was never designed/tested to withstand 
the constraints of *heat, pressure *and* abrasion *likely to be sustained under real life usage conditions.

Instead, the overriding design criteria was a membrane thin enough to let the blue LED shine through the switch cover...
(Case of marketing/cosmetic concern prevailing over engineering neccessity ?)

How much longer will Nitecore keep mum about their disastrous EA4 switch cover design, before finally 
coming clean about the problem AND offering a lasting remedy to what is just plain incompetent engineering design ?

__philippe


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## Bumble (Jul 10, 2013)

hi, well according to nitecore they have changed the material of the switch from a TPR to silicon dioxide. how you tell the difference between the materials i dont know ? a GOOD manufacturer would recall the lights effected by the sub-standard switch material, nitecore probably wont.


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## Trevtrain (Jul 10, 2013)

The thread at the site in question has more detail.

Basically, Calvin from IS has mentioned (as posted above) that the switch cover was upgraded to a different material on "the newer lights." Unfortunately, we don't yet have any way of knowing which serial numbers that covers.
His take is that it is up to the individual retailers to deal with the issue and to his credit, IS are apparently doing this and exchanging any affected lights.

Whilst Nitecore will apparently discuss the issue (well, someone lower in the command chain will anyway) with dealers, we'll just have to wait and see if they offer any kind of solution to end users.

As the OP began this thread by offering advice on how to replace the boot, an upgraded material on the "new" buttons gives some hope that replacing them with the current version would be a fix.
Then again, would you trust Nitecore to have gotten it right this time?


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## markr6 (Jul 10, 2013)

I posted some info in another thread about the second EA4 I got thru a trade. Here are a few things I noticed.

EA4w - preordered during initial release
• It is the warm version but says "EA4" on body. Nitecore seemed to change this shortly after initial release.
• Everything seems perfect, good tint, bezel is straight, quiet button
• Button is almost flush with body and still looks/functions fine
• The blue led blinks slow. Illuminates for about 1 second which uses up more battery in standby, but no big deal

EA4 - just received via trade so I'm not sure of the date
• Nice tint, even for a tint snob like me!
• Bezel is ever so slightly crooked and I can hardly tell
• Button is raised about 1.5x compared to my old EA4w. Also appears to be a softer, shinier rubber. It also looks like it's loose or coming out around the edge of the body
• Button has a quite loud "click" when fully pressed

Which one has a better button? Who knows. I'm tempted to test them both in a hot car (if that's even the cause of ballooning)


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## Sarratt (Jul 12, 2013)

I just checked mine and I have a crack too *sigh* ....And I had promised myself not to buy another light until I had seen how reliable it was.


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## __philippe (Jul 17, 2013)

Yet another distressing EA4 switch cover ballooning incident report (CPF post #1247, dated July 17th, 2013) ...
(..._*ballooned switch and gunk all inside the light*_... this time )

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?347951-&p=4245237&viewfull=1#post4245237

Chalk another one up Nitecore's Hall-of-Shame...:shakehead

__philippe


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## Likebright (Jul 20, 2013)

Red the thread went to my car took out my EA4 and sure enough the switch had swelled up and come out of its socket. 
I tried to fix it but it was bent out of shape and I lost a part of the switch when I took it off. So into the dumpster went the light. 
Very unhappy about this. I think two things happened. One the light got worm 100º or so and the air in the switch expanded. Two the rubber the switch is made of a rubber which deformed as the heat pressure inside bulged it out -the rubber cooled and remained in its deformed shape. 
I looked at my EA8 and it has the same type of a switch. I wonder if I should put a small hole in it. Putting that hole in it may not be as goofy an idea as suggested as a preventive measure. The switch would not undergo the deforming pressure even though the rubber might turn to Nutty-Putty. The rubber would remain in its original shape upon cooling. Humm should I poke the hole?
Mike


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## climberkid (Jul 20, 2013)

Well mike, let me ask you. Did you really throw the whole light in the trash?
If you have I will gladly pay for shipping of your trash to my door. If thats not rude to ask. 
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## Likebright (Jul 21, 2013)

Naa,
Well I did (got a bit of a temper) but I pulled it out and am still messing with it. 
I have written NiteCore to see what they say about it. Let you all know if I get a reply.
Still wondering if I should poke a hole in the rubber of the switch of my EA8 for now I am just keeping it cool.
Mike


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## atbglenn (Jul 25, 2013)

I got rid of my second EA4 because design and QC issues. No more Nitecore branded flashlights for me....


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## Slazmo (Jul 26, 2013)

atbglenn said:


> I got rid of my second EA4 because design and QC issues. No more Nitecore branded flashlights for me....



Becoming completely frustrated with all this going on - I like the torch for the light output and design (size and shape) however find myself always going back to smaller and better designed torches even... my MT7...

Should start bombarding the Nitecore FB page with pictures of ballooning and start seagull mobbing them for fixes and replies to our issues!!


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## Badbeams3 (Jul 26, 2013)

Slazmo said:


> Becoming completely frustrated with all this going on - I like the torch for the light output and design (size and shape) however find myself always going back to smaller and better designed torches even... my MT7...
> 
> Should start bombarding the Nitecore FB page with pictures of ballooning and start seagull mobbing them for fixes and replies to our issues!!



I agree. But look at all the 5 star reviews on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-EA4-...sr_1_1_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1


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## Shur (Aug 23, 2013)

I've just discovered that my switch boot is so deforme that the little plunger is able to rattle around and come out of position. The light doesnt want to come on when the plunger is sideways. 


Has anyone found a source for a working boot that doesnt involve buying a DX light?


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## Kueh (Aug 23, 2013)

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/367156


Read post #1

Sent from my SGH-I317M using Tapatalk 4


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## theFLASH12 (Oct 30, 2013)

*


macgyver35 said:



For everyone having issues with a ballooned/melted switch on the Nitecore EA4:

Click to expand...

*


macgyver35 said:


> *Unscrew the silver bezel at the lens.*




*
Macguyver, I'm stuck on the first Step of possibly trying this out on one of my EA4's, how can I take this bezel off somewhat easily, avoiding damage? Tools that would help?

Help is Much appreciated!!!*


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## markr6 (Oct 31, 2013)

theFLASH12 said:


> [/LIST]
> *
> Macguyver, I'm stuck on the first Step of possibly trying this out on one of my EA4's, how can I take this bezel off somewhat easily, avoiding damage? Tools that would help?
> 
> Help is Much appreciated!!!*



I wrapped some duct tape around a 2x4 (sticky side out). Then I pushed the bezel down tightly and turned it. Came off pretty easily. I think others said they used something rubber like the back of a mousepad.


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## Slazmo (Nov 3, 2013)

Yeh thats how I cracked open my EA4 to get that plastic washer first aligned and then secondly out of the lense... I just used a silicone sheet which is like a baking tray thing you can pick up at K Mart for $2 (Aus).

I pushed down on the mat with the bezel pretty well and gave a quick turn and it just came right off easily enough.



Trevtrain said:


> If I had to really nitpick, I'd mention that the lanyard attachment point makes tail standing a bit wobbly as the light sits on the lanyard thread. This could probably be solved with a split ring.










I borrowed the torch lanyard attachment off a MT7 and opened it up and clamped it into that EA4 lanyard hole - worst design for a lanyard hole!!! But before doing that I got a 200lb ball bearing swivel and deleted its bottom welded ring and threaded it on.

Most of you will understand whats happening. You can get those triangle things similar to what Led Lenser have off those key ring fob's.


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## SCEMan (Nov 3, 2013)

Trevtrain said:


> If I had to really nitpick, I'd mention that the lanyard attachment point makes tailstanding a bit wobbly as the light sits on the lanyard thread. This could probably be solved with a split ring.



Just loosen the lanyard loop at the attachment point and slip it to the side when tailstanding... voila, sits completely flat.


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## BongC36 (Dec 3, 2013)

I too had my EA4 button balloon for no apparent reason. It's always kept in my office, never been exposed to heat yet the accursed rubber rubber button cover swelled until the plunger inside the switch is out of position and cannot operate the light anymore.

My quick, cheap and very effective solution? I cut a ring from a black bicycle inner tube about 1 cm wide and stretched it over the button. Voila - back in business, no disassembly required:thumbsup: The rubber ring fits within the grooves around the flashlight and so it looks neat


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## mannam166 (Mar 22, 2014)

*my experience with Nitecore EA4*

I am so glad I have found this excellent thread from macgyver35! It worked for me perfectly but what I can add is this:
-make sure you push LED housing real hard when assembling back the flashlight. I looked around my house for a round and strong plastic pipe that
has the right size and won't damage the center where LED is located (suggested paper tube was not strong enough). Before that the flashlight simply did not work -even after trying a dozen of times or so. Oh and if you contact Nitecore service in China they will send you replacement factory boots for like $1 each + S/H. Try this address: [email protected].
It seems these new boots are better built and if anyone is interested I have 1 to spare (bought 3 from them)
mannam166


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## __philippe (Mar 23, 2014)

*Re: my experience with Nitecore EA4*

_*@Mannamm166 & @BongC36

*_Do you think a Nitecore factory spare switch boot could be replaced *from outside the EA4, without disassembly*, 
by just prying out the defective old boot and pushing the new one into the boot retaining groove?

(Just like BongC36 appears to have done with his DIY rubber ring replacement?)

__philippe


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## kevleee1 (Mar 24, 2014)

*Re: my experience with Nitecore EA4*

Did they include instructions on how to replace the switch boot or does that cost extra?


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## mannam166 (Apr 2, 2014)

Philippe: no way-factory boot cannot be replaced from outside in my opinion. 
Kevleee1: no inst. from nitecore.com. Actually they don't want you to replace this yourself claiming it is a job for "qualified" technicians only. However if you follow the inst. from macgyver35 who started this thread you will be fine.
mannam166


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## Hamilton Felix (Apr 24, 2014)

Thanks to macgyver35, I managed to repair my EA4W tonight. 

When I got home today, parts were in my mailbox, from:
Hong Kong Dafang Logistics Limited
Nitecore
P.O. Box No. 68107
Kowloon East Post Office
Hong Kong

It was a bit of a challenge getting it apart and back together, but it's working again. The bezel seems to be sitting a bit higher, so I'll keep an eye on it.

For me, it wasn't a melted or bubbled switch cover. It just came apart, "rubbed off" about the time I started using the nice custom holster from Thor's Hammer. For a while, I just kept Scotch tape over the button and used the light that way. Eventually, the tape got a bit too tired before I noticed and replaced it. As I was walking into a store one evening, I lost the little black plastic piece from the center of the switch.

i contacted Nitecore via email. After some back & forth and me explainng I had mail ordered the light, they sent me some parts, including the actual switch (which I didn't need). The possibility (and possible inconvenience) of mailing the light back to Hong Kong was mentioned, but I decided to try fixing it here first.

i think Nitecore may have changed more than the switch cover. The little round black plastic part that has to pass through the clear plastic part to reach the switch did not fit (either the clear piece they sent me or the one I had). I had to carefully enlarge the hole in the clear piece to just a hair over 9/64" but it worked out fine. 

I am glad to have the light back in service. It's my daily "big" light at work, and I use NiMH batteries.

Now to contact 4 Sevens and see about getting my Preon II fixed so I can stop carrying my wife's Preon II for my daily "small" light (mine acted up, but hers and two others I bought for co-workers have worked fine). 

I guess if I truly want reliability above all, I should save up and buy HDS. But I do like this EA4W.


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## Flashlight World (Jun 20, 2014)

h2oflyer said:


> I like the AA format and looked at the EA4, but felt uncomfortable about the switch boot problem. Made the smartest flashlight buying decision ever and bought the Eagletac GX25A3. Better quality, smaller diameter, one less AA, same if not better throw. You get what you pay for, Nitecore has turned into crap.



The Eagletac GX25A3 does look like a much better light, except for one thing - the UI. I can't stand lights where you have to loosen the head to access the other modes. But I agree, Nitecore has terrible customer service and their lights do seem to break easily. I wish they would fix those two issues because they come up with some of the most innovative lights.


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## lswindell4 (Jun 22, 2014)

Parinoid now! Have had my nitecore EA4 about 4 months and used it a lot with no issues. I've been experimenting with the batteries for best runtime, etc, but no bad issues with the light. Have also used with success the Vostro bk fa02. I live on a hill overlooking a river and my dock and boatlift is approximately 100 meters down from my porch. Both lights illuminate the pier but the bk- fa02 lights it up like daylight. Hopefully I got a light w/o the defects.


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## Wolf359 (Jun 24, 2014)

I have acouple of the EA4 lights, one cool, one warm not had any issue with then but with all the reported prolems i have removed the batteries and dropped them in my junk light draw. I did this purely because i do not feel i can trust the lights 100% anymore. I work nights and use a flashlight often and i need to be able to trust them. The knock on is i will no longer buy nitecore, there have been several i fancied but thought "sod that not worth the risk" instead bought acouple of the D40a which are cracking lights and an LD41 which was good too.

Anyone know of a replacement 2 level switch for the nitcore 100lm low 500lm high for example ? Or should i just rip out the LED as salvage.


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