# Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5



## ernsanada (Dec 20, 2007)

I just got the Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 from Nitecore Defender Infinity CPFMP Thread

I was able to get in the special CPF group one buy at $40.00. I paid extra for $10.00 for EMS Shipping.

EMS shipping took 8 days.

Box was slightly crushed during shipping.

The Type III Hard Anodize is excellent. Slight color differences between Lens Bezel Assembly and Battery Tube.

Unfortunately the dreaded " Strong Light" printing on the bezel.

Fit is excellent.

Anti-roll design.

Uses Cree Q5 WC.

Uses 1AA Battery. Can use 14500 Lithium Rechargeable Battery.

Forward clickie.

NiteCore® Defender InfinityTM adopts unique infinitely variable digital-controlled brightness technique, which enables customers to set the brightness levels by themselves only through rotating the bezel of the light. And the switching between brightness levels is smooth, no longer with limitation of preset brightness levels. Customers will be able to choose the output level they need according to different environment; also, they can set a really very low output level in order to achieve prominent long time of continuous using.

I still have to figure out how to use the UI. I just got the light.

From my lux readings the Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP gets some high lux readings for using a Nimh battery. The Fenix L1D CE has slightly higher lux readings due to it's SMO Reflector.

















Comes with Warranty Card and Instruction Booklet.






Also comes with 2 o-rings, 500 Parachute Cord Lanyard and rear rubber boot cover.































Inside view of the back of the Cree Q WC Module.











Inside view of the forward clickie.






















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Size comparisions.

Left to Right, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5, Jet Beam CLE V2, Jet Beam MKII X, Jet Beam CLE, Fenix L1P CE






Left to Right, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5, Jet Beam CLE V2, Jet Beam MKII X, Jet Beam CLE, Fenix L1P CE







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I also took lux readings of the lights above. These are the lux readings I got. I am using a Meterman LM631 Light Meter measured at 1 meter. I waited 2 minutes before taking the readings. I am using Duracell 2650mAh Nimh AA Rechargeable Batteries which were fully charged. I used AW's Protected 14500 in the Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 to take lux readings. It's the only light that can run the 14500 out of lights shown above.












Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, 14500 - 1960 lux @ 1 meter

Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, Nimh - 1350 lux @ 1 meter

Jet Beam CLE V2 OP Nimh - 550 lux @ 1 meter

Jet Beam MK IIX OP Nimh - 400 lux @ 1 meter

Jet Beam CLE OP Nimh - 680 lux @ 1 meter

Fenix L1D CE SMO Nimh - 1400 lux @ 1 meter 




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Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, 14500 @ 90"






Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, Nimh @ 90"






Jet Beam CLE V2 OP Nimh @ 90"






Jet Beam MK IIX OP Nimh @ 90"






Jet Beam CLE OP Nimh @ 90"






Fenix L1D CE SMO Nimh @ 90"






Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, 14500 @ 90" Stepped down exposure






Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, Nimh @ 90" Stepped down exposure






Jet Beam CLE V2 OP Nimh @ 90" Stepped down exposure






Jet Beam MK IIX OP Nimh @ 90" Stepped down exposure






Jet Beam CLE OP Nimh @ 90" Stepped down exposure






Fenix L1D CE SMO Nimh @ 90" Stepped down exposure






Left, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, Nimh. Right, Jet Beam MK IIX OP Nimh @ 90"






Left, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, Nimh. Right, Jet Beam CLE V2 OP Nimh @ 90" 






Left, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, Nimh. Right, Jet Beam CLE OP Nimh @ 90" 






Left, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, Nimh. Right, Fenix L1D CE SMO Nimh @ 90" 






Left, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, Nimh. Right, Jet Beam MK IIX OP Nimh @ 90" Stepped down exposure






Left, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, Nimh. Right, Jet Beam CLE V2 OP Nimh @ 90" Stepped down exposure






Left, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, Nimh. Right, Jet Beam CLE OP Nimh @ 90" Stepped down exposure






Left, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, Nimh. Right, Fenix L1D CE SMO Nimh @ 90" Stepped down exposure


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## Miciobigio (Dec 20, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> NiteCore® Defender InfinityTM adopts unique infinitely variable digital-controlled brightness technique, which *enables customers to set the brightness levels by themselves only through rotating the bezel of the light. And the switching between brightness levels is smooth, no longer with limitation of preset brightness levels*. Customers will be able to choose the output level they need according to different environment; also, they can set a really very low output level in order to achieve prominent long time of continuous using.
> 
> I still have to figure out how to use the UI. I just got the light.
> 
> ..CUT..


 
*I'm a little confused , can you confirm this sentence ?*


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## ernsanada (Dec 20, 2007)

Miciobigio said:


> ernsanada said:
> 
> 
> > NiteCore® Defender InfinityTM adopts unique infinitely variable digital-controlled brightness technique, which *enables customers to set the brightness levels by themselves only through rotating the bezel of the light. And the switching between brightness levels is smooth, no longer with limitation of preset brightness levels*. Customers will be able to choose the output level they need according to different environment; also, they can set a really very low output level in order to achieve prominent long time of continuous using.
> ...


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## WadeF (Dec 20, 2007)

With the Nitecore you have tactical mode, and user set mode. With the bezel fully tightened you have tactical mode, full output. If you quickly loosen and tighten you engage STROBE, if you quickly loosen and tighten again you go back to constant full output.

If you loosen the bezel for over 0.5 seconds it will go into user set mode. Once in this mode a quick tightening and loosening of the bezel will start the light dimming, or getting brighter. If it's dimming, and you want brighter, you tigthen and loosen quickly again and it will reverse the direction the light intensity was going. Once the desired output is seen you click the light off. Then when you turn it back on, it will remember that setting until you change it again. 

If you have the bezel loose and you turn the light on, it will come on in the user set mode. What I have noticed is, if you turn the light off in user set mode (say it's set to max low), then tighten the bezel and turn the light back on, it will start briefly in the user mode (max low in this example) and then in about half a second switch back to tactical mode, full power or strobe (depending on what mode you last used in tactical mode). 

I find the interface to be very easy once I figured it out. If anything could be improved it would be to have it so if you turned off in user mode, and then tightened for tactical, it comes right on in tactical mode, rather than starting in user mode and then switching to tactical (probably in that 0.5 seconds). You only have 0.5 seconds to tighten-loosen or loosen-tighten to activate strobe or light level adjustment, etc.


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## Derek Dean (Dec 20, 2007)

Excellent review ernsanada. Thank you so much for the wonderful photos of the light, and especially for the comparison beamshots with the other 1xAA contenders. This makes the waiting just a bit more tolerable as I can see that this will be a fine EDC companion for my NovaTac, since we all know that lights travel better in pairs.


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## ernsanada (Dec 20, 2007)

WadeF,

Thanks for the instructions on how to use the UI. Makes it easier for me.


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## djblank87 (Dec 20, 2007)

ernsanada great review as always. The pictures are very clean and really give us none-owers a good idea of what we could expect from this light. 

Thank you for taking the time to get it posted up...it is appreciated.


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## swxb12 (Dec 20, 2007)

ernsanada, I'm glad that you finally received your light as well. Think EDGE will refund me and you on EMS costs? heh - I think someone on the east coast received theirs today via non-ems...(/rant off)

My NDI came paired with a lanyard braided out of black paracord - care to trade? 

Anyways, thanks for the pictures and standard review as always. Those lux readings are making me drool...I need to get some AW cells! Thankfully some US dealers appear to have them in stock.


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## x2x3x2 (Dec 20, 2007)

From your pics, the PCB on the production version seems to have an additional hole along the solder trace right before the word "Light".

Wonder if this means any changes to the electronics...


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## ernsanada (Dec 20, 2007)

swxb12 said:


> ernsanada, I'm glad that you finally received your light as well. Think EDGE will refund me and you on EMS costs? heh - I think someone on the east coast received theirs today via non-ems...(/rant off)
> 
> My NDI came paired with a lanyard braided out of black paracord - care to trade?
> 
> Anyways, thanks for the pictures and standard review as always. Those lux readings are making me drool...I need to get some AW cells! Thankfully some US dealers appear to have them in stock.



8 days EMS. Maybe it's because of Christmas. I have a feeling the lights were sent out of order. How can somebody on the east coast get their lights before me. I EMS'd on the west coast.

The Horus Titanium FD-1.3 I received took only 2 days from Taiwan EMS.

The Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 and Raidfire Spear Q5 came from Shanghai, China.


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## WadeF (Dec 20, 2007)

When I EMS my items from China come into NYC. Do they also come into the west coast as well? Or do they all come into NYC, and then have to be rushed over to the west coast? I went with EMS and I had my lights on Monday.


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## ernsanada (Dec 20, 2007)

This is a close up of the "Stong Light" and "Nitecore" Logo.


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## ernsanada (Dec 20, 2007)

WadeF said:


> When I EMS my items from China come into NYC. Do they also come into the west coast as well? Or do they all come into NYC, and then have to be rushed over to the west coast? I went with EMS and I had my lights on Monday.



My packages made a stop in Customs at San Francisco. Then to Socal (Gardena, California).


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## ernsanada (Dec 20, 2007)

Look out! It's a ................


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## vincebdx (Dec 20, 2007)

Very nice, thank you ernsanada for all reviews


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## PhantomPhoton (Dec 20, 2007)

Yea EDGE Tac definitely needs to consult a native English speaker for their "warning" signs next time. Unfortunately while it is a correct statement the context translates differently. Makes the light seem very much like a toy with that written on there. I'm sure I can come up with a way to remove it though.
Thanks for the review. Too bad shipping got screwed up. It is hard to say whether it was EdgeTac or EMS or Customs that did the screwing, but at least the light made it. I personally think EDGE Tac is doing a fairly decent job of pulling off the NDI and the Spear. I can think of a couple other highly anticipated lights that didn't go nearly as well.


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## Thujone (Dec 20, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> Look out! It's a ................



I see this becoming many an avatar if the light continues to perform as well as it has thus far for me. This could just be the next "All your base are belong to us"


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## selfbuilt (Dec 20, 2007)

Great shots as always Ernie!

On my pre-production sample (post #41), throw on Duracell 2650mAh NiMH was just slightly higher on the NiteCore compared to the Fenix L1D Q5. But the real difference was in overall output - quite a bit higher according to my lightbox and ceiling bounce test. Judging from your pics, it looks like the spill of the NiteCore is noticeably brighter than the L1D (it certainly is on my sample). Do you have the same subjective impression?

Looking forward to receiving my shipping version to directly compare to the pre-production one. 

P.S.: I'm sure it won't take you long to figure out the interface - it's really quite intuitive once you play with the switching.


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## whc (Dec 20, 2007)

Very nice review, thanks ...

Also got my NDI today a nice little and very bright flashlight. I found one little "funny" thing with the UI.

1. Turn on the DI and set it to User-defined mode (head loosened).
2. Turn off the DI (still in User-defined mode).
3. While off tighten the head to Tactical mode.
4. Press the switch to momentary on. 
5. It is now in User-defined mode for at least 0.5 sec.

Don't know if it is a bug, but seems that the DI requires power for it to register when switching from User-defined mode to Tactical mode. When going from Tactical to User-defined mode it does not matter if the flashlight is off or on, no delay here...


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## Tremendo (Dec 20, 2007)

Has anyone compared the output of an Energizer Lithium AA compared to the 18650?


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## selfbuilt (Dec 20, 2007)

Tremendo said:


> Has anyone compared the output of an Energizer Lithium AA compared to the 18650?


I haven't done runtimes on L91 lithiums (x2x3x2 has), but initial output is basically the same as NiMH or regular alkaline (which is less than 14500). See link in my sig for pre-production review.



whc said:


> Don't know if it is a bug, but seems that the DI requires power for it to register when switching from User-defined mode to Tactical mode. When going from Tactical to User-defined mode it does not matter if the flashlight is off or on, no delay here...


Yes, I've noticed the exact same thing on my pre-production sample (but didn't think to mention it my review, since it was getting pretty long ).


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## ernsanada (Dec 20, 2007)

WadeF said:


> With the Nitecore you have tactical mode, and user set mode. With the bezel fully tightened you have tactical mode, full output. If you quickly loosen and tighten you engage STROBE, if you quickly loosen and tighten again you go back to constant full output.
> 
> If you loosen the bezel for over 0.5 seconds it will go into user set mode. Once in this mode a quick tightening and loosening of the bezel will start the light dimming, or getting brighter. If it's dimming, and you want brighter, you tigthen and loosen quickly again and it will reverse the direction the light intensity was going. Once the desired output is seen you click the light off. Then when you turn it back on, it will remember that setting until you change it again.
> 
> ...




When you get in to low is the low very dim?

My light doesn't get very dim or it's not working.

I tried it with Nimh.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 20, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> When you get in to low is the low very dim?
> 
> My light doesn't get very dim or it's not working.


With the light on, loosen the head. After 0.5 sec, it will go into user defined mode.

From head loose, do a rapid tighten-loosen switch (in under 0.5 secs) and light will either ramp up to max or down to min, depending on where you are in the user defined mode. If the light ramps up to max, simply do another tighten-loosen switch to get it to start ramping down to min.

Once the light reaches min (or any other brightness you want), turn it off at the switch. You have now set the user defined mode (head loose), and it will always come back on at this level until you do another ramp.

P.S.: One piece of advice - be careful not to twist the tailcap while the light is ramping. The threads are anodized for tailcap lock-out, so twisting it will turn the light off and have the same effect as clicking the switch (i.e. will set the user defined level). If this happens, just perform a switch from loose to get the light ramping again ...

Low is quite low - lower than any other 1AA light I have except for the LF5 on its lowest setting.


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## Flic (Dec 20, 2007)

I'm anxious to see if this turns out be:
1) a QC issue
2) dirty threads / contacts, or
3) a user vs. UI issue - remember all the folks who could not get their LF2s sorted out. Darn, it took me a while to get terms with my LF2. Now if only Canada Post could hurry up!!


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## nexro (Dec 20, 2007)

does it come with a holster/pouch ???


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## V8TOYTRUCK (Dec 20, 2007)

Excellent review! Thanks for taking the time to take photos and post.

Is it just me or does the UI seem overly complicated?

I wish it would just be 2 modes. Titan style infinite adjustable from the front. and Full output via tailswitch from the back. I hate the unscrew and screw UI of the P1D CE...not to mention all the strobing and SOS modes.

Maybe I'll wait for Version 2.0 of this light


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## ernsanada (Dec 20, 2007)

The UI is a screwey on my light. I get can get it into low but only at one level. I try turning the bezel nothing. Sometimes it will jump back to high and stay on high. If I leave it in the only low the light goes to the light will go back to high without turning the bezel.


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## ernsanada (Dec 20, 2007)

V8TOYTRUCK said:


> Excellent review! Thanks for taking the time to take photos and post.
> 
> Is it just me or does the UI seem overly complicated?
> 
> ...




My light seems it wants to stay in high when I mess with the UI. I don't care though because I like one level lights.

My board behind the Cree Q5 module is getting scratches from the +ve battery contact. It seems in time you can start to wear through and start to actually "drill" a hole.


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## V8TOYTRUCK (Dec 20, 2007)

I was really hoping for a good looking poor mans Titan. When Tvodrd handed me his..I instantly knew how to use it. 

It is however one of the best looking AA lights. Looks mean with all that knurling. (Minus the ''Strong Light'') logo on the front. 

Deforming contacts kinda remind me of my old ARC AAA...the more you use it..the harder you have to tighten it to turn on.


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## Hondo (Dec 20, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> My board behind the Cree Q5 module is getting scratches from the +ve battery contact. It seems in time you can start to wear through and start to actually "drill" a hole.


 
My Jett C-LE started to get that, and I just tinned a small pool of solder at the center of the board for the battery to run against - permanent solution.

I am sure from all of the descriptions above that you are in fact turning your light's head from loose to tight and back to loose within one half second to try and initiate the level setting ramp up/ramp down. If you could get it to start the ramping sequence, you would then only need to turn off at the brightness you wanted. Must be a bad board.

Mine departed Shanghai yesterday .


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## cheapo (Dec 20, 2007)

a 14500 comparison would be a good adition. But once again, a great review by a great reviewer.


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## ernsanada (Dec 20, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> The UI is a screwey on my light. I get can get it into low but only at one level. I try turning the bezel nothing. Sometimes it will jump back to high and stay on high. If I leave it in the only low the light goes to the light will go back to high without turning the bezel.



After watching WadeF's video I was doing the UI incorrect.

When my light ramps up or down the light intensity jumps into high not very smooth. When the light ramps down it jumps from high to low also not very smooth.

Anybody else's NDI doing this?

WadeF's Video


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## EDGETAC (Dec 20, 2007)

Dear all,


To those who meet with UI issues, please find the following suggestions from our engineers, and see if the problem still exists with your NiteCore D-I, then you just contact us, thanks!


As each of the light goes through double strict QC work, they should perform well normally. 

So for operation issues maybe: 
1. replace the battery;
2. twist the light bezel a few times back and forth;
3. the loosen-and-tighten or tighten-and-loosen operation should be done within 0.5second, if not fast enough, the mode switching failed.

If the light bezel is too tight, it may not be switched into the tactical mode, so twist it a few times to make better contact should work. 

Also, if the light is 100% bright under user defined mode (loosened), then there might be confusion in the brightness changing, as it's not that obvious at first, so you may wait for 2-3seconds to see if the brightness changes.

Here we would like to link the vedio by WadeF, you may refer to it if interested. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daFqQjRYgMs


If any issues may occur with your light, please do not hesitate to contact us, thanks!


P.S. ernsanada, as to the smoothness of the brightness changing, you may refer to the review by selfbuilt here, https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/180378&page=2, there are graphs showing the rate of brightness changing. Also, please refer to your PM. thanks!



Best Regards,
Y.L.Wong


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## ernsanada (Dec 20, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> After watching WadeF's video I was doing the UI incorrect.
> 
> When my light ramps up or down the light intensity jumps into high not very smooth. When the light ramps down it jumps from high to low also not very smooth.
> 
> ...




I finally figured out how to use the UI. I had to watch the video about 4 times before I got it right.

I think it's because of yesterday. I spent about 7 straight hours doing 3 reviews yesterday.

I also had about 5 hours of sleep last night.

I think it's Flashoholics Non-Brain Absorption! :thinking:

A good :sleepy: should fix it.


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## robo21 (Dec 20, 2007)

V8TOYTRUCK said:


> Excellent review! Thanks for taking the time to take photos and post.
> 
> Is it just me or does the UI seem overly complicated?
> 
> ...


 
Don't worry, once you play with the UI for a few minutes it becomes simple. It just sounds complicated. 

I really like this flashlight. IMO much better than the P1D Q5. It's not like you have to go through strobe mode to access other modes. Once you set your user defined level you basically have max and user defined depending on the bezel position. All the way tightened is max and slightly loosened is user defined. You don't ever need to see strobe unless you want it. 

Overall feel is very high quality. The lens is exceptional. EdgeTac hit a homerun.


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## matrixshaman (Dec 21, 2007)

Thanks for another great review ernsanada! My wallet is not happy with you though  

:laughing:


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## letezac (Dec 21, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> I used AW's Protected 14500 in the Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 to take lux readings. It's the only light that can run the 14500 out of lights shown above.



MkIIX I think also can run 14500. A 14500 comparison could be interesting. As always great review and photos.

thx Ernsanada 

J.L.
Mx


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## Gatsby (Dec 21, 2007)

I like the way this light looks and the performance - but I'm not sure about the UI ... I'm not sure this is any less Byzantine than the Liteflux UI and may be a bit less so since the LF series operate out of the box as a simple two stage twisty. 

Anyway - I like the AA/14500 form factor so at some point I'll likely end up picking one up just to see how it works in my hands and test it out...


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## robo21 (Dec 21, 2007)

Gatsby said:


> I like the way this light looks and the performance - but I'm not sure about the UI ... I'm not sure this is any less Byzantine than the Liteflux UI and may be a bit less so since the LF series operate out of the box as a simple two stage twisty.
> 
> Anyway - I like the AA/14500 form factor so at some point I'll likely end up picking one up just to see how it works in my hands and test it out...


 
For the most part, the complaints about the UI are coming from those who have not experienced it first hand or those who have not taken the time to familiarize themselves with the UI. 

It is simple and elegant. It works. I like it. Edgetac has created an affordable, high-output, infinitely adjustable, AA/14500/NiMH flashlight. IMO the NDI is a winner in every area, including ease of use of the UI.


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## mchlwise (Dec 21, 2007)

Gatsby said:


> I like the way this light looks and the performance - but I'm not sure about the UI ... I'm not sure this is any less Byzantine than the Liteflux UI and may be a bit less so since the LF series operate out of the box as a simple two stage twisty.



The NightCore is a simple two-stage light out of the box too. Head tight = really bright, head loose = not. 

It's really quite easy and quick to get used to.


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## NoFair (Dec 21, 2007)

Got mine today. Build quality is excellent, the switch is very good and the UI is easy to use after using it a few times. 

Brightness is very good both on NiMH and Li-ions. Going to try EDCing this instead of my HDS for a few days 

Sverre


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## Gatsby (Dec 21, 2007)

mchlwise said:


> The NightCore is a simple two-stage light out of the box too. Head tight = really bright, head loose = not.
> 
> It's really quite easy and quick to get used to.


 
mchl (and robo) - many consider the UI on the Liteflux to be tricky but once used I don't find it cumbersome for how I actually use the light - sounds like this is the case here as well. I'll have to reread the instruction set... 

How is the step up/down compared to the Liteflux (since the linear setup on the LF series is that lights only real flaw that I can complain about)?


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## swxb12 (Dec 21, 2007)

Gatsby said:


> How is the step up/down compared to the Liteflux (since the linear setup on the LF series is that lights only real flaw that I can complain about)?



It's been hidden from view: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/180378&page=2

See post #41 by SelfBuilt - "Variable Output Rate" graph near bottom of his review.


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## whc (Dec 21, 2007)

Am beginning to have some problems with my DI:

1. The head/bezel is getting VERY hard to loosen/tighten, making it almost impossible to ramping up/down in user-defined mode, since it is hard to do it within 0.5sec when it is so tight. Tried to clean the threads completely several times, and then putting some new lube on the threads on o-ring, also tried to "break-in" the threads, but nothing helps, also sounds really "rough".
2. The switch is sometimes flicker when using it at tactical flashlight (half press), not a big problem, but kind of annoying. Also a couple of times had the switch failed on me .
3. This is purely cosmetic, but the battery tube seems almost completely black, while the rest (head and tail) is natural-grey. Normally I don't mine some variations in the color of the HA, but this is just too much, making is seems very cheap an almost like it is put together of two different flashlights, not happy with it at all.

Have tried to contact Edgetac about this, no reply yet (guess they are on weekend), but any other with similar problems?

Else it is a really nice flashlight, best 1xAA out there at the moment IMO.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 21, 2007)

Gatsby said:


> mchl (and robo) - many consider the UI on the Liteflux to be tricky but once used I don't find it cumbersome for how I actually use the light - sounds like this is the case here as well. I'll have to reread the instruction set...
> 
> How is the step up/down compared to the Liteflux (since the linear setup on the LF series is that lights only real flaw that I can complain about)?


I see swxb12 has already directed you to my thread.  The ramping is much better on the NiteCore, as you'll see there.

The UI on the NiteCore is simplicity itself compared to the Liteflux. I find it very intuitive and elegant, and nowhere near as finicky as my LF-5. 

In my extensive testing of the NiteCore over the last month, it has continued to work flawlessly (been my EDC since it arrived). In contrast, my LF-5 needed re-adjustment within mintues of arrival, and continues to be finicky to this day. 

There's really no comparison - the NiteCore is a fantastic light. :twothumbs


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## mchlwise (Dec 21, 2007)

selfbuilt said:


> The UI on the NiteCore is simplicity itself compared to the Liteflux. I find it very intuitive and elegant, and nowhere near as finicky as my LF-5.



Agreed. 

BUT... you have to take into account the vast number of "features" the LF5 has over the NiteCore. The NiteCore essentially has only 3 modes, and only 1 of them is programmable. The LF5 does a lot more, but it does take some patience to get it do to what you want it to. 

One problem I've had with the NiteCore's UI is unintentionally activiting strobe. I think this is most easily avoided by loosening the head aggressively so it doesn't "accidentally" make contact again and start strobing. 

I've also had it start slow strobing on occasion, and haven't figured out quite how or why it does that yet. :thinking:


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## swxb12 (Dec 21, 2007)

I've had a few issues with accidentally setting off strobe as well.



mchlwise said:


> I've also had it start slow strobing on occasion, and haven't figured out quite how or why it does that yet. :thinking:



Secret bike rider mode? :devil:


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## TITAN1833 (Dec 21, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> Look out! It's a ................


Or? rong, s ..light mistake? lol! :naughty:

Edit; btw, I am giving up hope on receiving this light.  strong light? lol.


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## Diode (Dec 21, 2007)

NoFair said:


> Brightness is very good both on NiMH and Li-ions.


That's good to hear. I expect nothing less from a strong light.


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## ernsanada (Dec 21, 2007)

I have been using AW's Protected 14500.

Top view of the +ve end.






The rear of my module is starting to look like this.


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## Paul6ppca (Dec 21, 2007)

I bought some ultrafire 14500 from DX,it had a normal top nipple like any other AA battery.I dont think it will gouge like that. Ill let you know how it works when my nitecore arrives!!


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## regulator (Dec 21, 2007)

I have AW's cells just waiting for the light when it arrives - can't wait. 

Paul - I wonder if the 14500 cells that you have from UF are protected? The extra tab that is shown on the AW cell is the protection circuit. I do know that UF has both a protected and non-protected 14500 cell that is offered.

I decided that I wanted to have the extra protection with the protected cells. I know that the DI is supposed to have the built in low voltage feature though.


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## ernsanada (Dec 21, 2007)

Left, Olight T15 Q5. Right, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5






Left, Olight T15 Q5. Right, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5







-----------------------------------------------------------------------

I also took lux readings of the lights above. These are the lux readings I got. I am using a Meterman LM631 Light Meter measured at 1 meter. I waited 2 minutes before taking the readings. I am using a Ultrafire Unprotected 14500 in the Olight T15 Q5. I used AW's Protected 14500 in the Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 to take lux readings. 












Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, AW Protected 14500 - 1960 lux @ 1 meter

Olight T15 Q5, Ultrafire Unprotected 14500 - 2510 [email protected] 1 meter


------------------------------------------------------------------------

Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, AW Protected 14500 @ 90"






Olight T15 Q5, Ultrafire Unprotected 14500 @ 90"






Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, AW Protected 14500 @ 90" Stepped down exposure






Olight T15 Q5, Ultrafire Unprotected 14500 @ 90" Stepped down exposure






Left, Olight T15 Q5, Ultrafire Unprotected 14500. Right, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, AW Protected 14500 @ 90" 






Left, Olight T15 Q5, Ultrafire Unprotected 14500. Right, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, AW Protected 14500 @ 90" Stepped down exposure






Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, AW Protected 14500 @ 32'






Olight T15 Q5, Ultrafire Unprotected 14500 @ 32'


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## selfbuilt (Dec 21, 2007)

mchlwise said:


> BUT... you have to take into account the vast number of "features" the LF5 has over the NiteCore. The NiteCore essentially has only 3 modes, and only 1 of them is programmable. The LF5 does a lot more, but it does take some patience to get it do to what you want it to.


Quite true - I was only speaking of the interface. The LF5 is certainly more versatile (and correspondingly more complex).



> I've also had it start slow strobing on occasion, and haven't figured out quite how or why it does that yet. :thinking:


x2x3x2 reported that as well (scroll back up to the previous page), but I've been unable to elicit it on mine.

And thanks for the extra comparison Ernie ... my O-light Q15 is on order.:thumbsup:


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## WadeF (Dec 22, 2007)

whc said:


> Am beginning to have some problems with my DI:
> 
> 1. The head/bezel is getting VERY hard to loosen/tighten, making it almost impossible to ramping up/down in user-defined mode, since it is hard to do it within 0.5sec when it is so tight. Tried to clean the threads completely several times, and then putting some new lube on the threads on o-ring, also tried to "break-in" the threads, but nothing helps, also sounds really "rough".


 
The different colored body sounds suspicious. Almost like you got something from another batch, and it doesn't quite fit the rest of the parts. What lube are you using?


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## Hondo (Dec 22, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> I have been using AW's Protected 14500.
> 
> Top view of the +ve end.
> 
> ...


 
Whoa, nasty! I had no idea those protected cells had a weld tab on the positive end. It looks like a little gentle tapping with a punch could flatten it better, it appears to have a corner sticking up that is digging into the board when twisting. The board is still easily remedied by adding a small pool of solder over the positive trace in the middle. It won't need to be too thick to do the trick, and probably can't be without starting to crowd the battery against the tailcap spring.


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## ernsanada (Dec 22, 2007)

whc said:


> Am beginning to have some problems with my DI:
> 
> 1. The head/bezel is getting VERY hard to loosen/tighten, making it almost impossible to ramping up/down in user-defined mode, since it is hard to do it within 0.5sec when it is so tight. Tried to clean the threads completely several times, and then putting some new lube on the threads on o-ring, also tried to "break-in" the threads, but nothing helps, also sounds really "rough".
> 
> ...



My light is also hard to turn but your light sounds lot harder than mine.

Not buttery smooth twisting action like some other lights I have.


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## WadeF (Dec 22, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> I have been using AW's Protected 14500.
> 
> Top view of the +ve end.


 
Yikes! Does it look like you have some kind of arcing going on? Why aren't you using the little magnet AW normally includes with those batteries? Without it, I can't imagine it making very good connection. He includes those magnets for a reason as they act as the nipple. 

I'm using a AW 14500 with the magnet and haven't had any issues.


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## Paul6ppca (Dec 22, 2007)

AW vs ultrafire 14500 Hope this helps.I know what Ill use. 900 mah, PROTECTED.


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## Paul6ppca (Dec 22, 2007)

WadeF said:


> Yikes! Does it look like you have some kind of arcing going on? Why aren't you using the little magnet AW normally includes with those batteries? Without it, I can't imagine it making very good connection. He includes those magnets for a reason as they act as the nipple.
> 
> I'm using a AW 14500 with the magnet and haven't had any issues.


 

Magnet and lion ,are not a good combo,i never rememeber Aw including magnetes with mine.I think I order from lighthound.Magnets can slip and shot out/thermal runaway and a meltdown.Burnining with toxic vaors. So Do NOT use manets and lion(my Opinion)battery.This is why I stick to single cell lights using lion.Multi cell I stay with NIMH.


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## ernsanada (Dec 22, 2007)

WadeF said:


> Yikes! Does it look like you have some kind of arcing going on? Why aren't you using the little magnet AW normally includes with those batteries? Without it, I can't imagine it making very good connection. He includes those magnets for a reason as they act as the nipple.
> 
> I'm using a AW 14500 with the magnet and haven't had any issues.



I have had a bad experience with a magnet on a 18650 in MR Bulks Chameleon. The light was setting on my desk. I accidently bumped the light and it fell on it's side. When the light fell over my board got fried. The light wasn't even on. After that I told myself that I would never use those magnets again. I only use the magnets to see if a rechargeable lithium will work if the light will not first light up with a lithium.


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## srvctec (Dec 22, 2007)

Paul6ppca said:


> AW vs ultrafire 14500 Hope this helps.I know what Ill use. 900 mah, PROTECTED.



I have a couple of AW protected 14500s I *was* going to use, but now I may go the Ultrafire route. Are the Ultrafires as good as or better than AWs?


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## Rzr800 (Dec 22, 2007)

I want to thank all of you (especially ernsanada) for your comments. Just received my AW14500's today; charged them and am now taking them out of the light permanently. Bar none and regardless of price...who makes the best protected cell out there? 

Thanks again for possibly preventing a very bad situation.


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## ernsanada (Dec 22, 2007)

This is +ve side on an Ultrafire Unprotected 14500. I'm not sure if the the Ultrafire Protected 14500 +ve side looks like this but this maybe a better alternative to the AW's Protected 14500.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 22, 2007)

srvctec said:


> I have a couple of AW protected 14500s I *was* going to use, but now I may go the Ultrafire route. Are the Ultrafires as good as or better than AWs?


AW's protecteds are generally regarded by most members here as among the best li-ion batteries you can find. Ultrafires are probably better than completely unbranded, but typically storage capacity is exaggerated and quality of protection circuits is unknown on cheaper batteries.

It's unfortunate that AW's 14500 don't come with a +'ve nipple, but I've never experienced any problems with any of the ones I own, in any light. The weld tab on Ernie's looks a little rough - mine are all much flatter and smoother. I've been running my NiteCore on these since it arrived (3 different AW 14500s in fact) - and the head still looks pristine.

I also do not recommend use of those magnets - too dangerous. Even with the light off, a strong jarring motion could short the +'ve terminal to the -'ve body, causing a potentially dangerous situation for Li-ion. Like Ernie, I only use them for testing situations under controlled conditions - never in actual usage.

Just my opinion, but I would tend to trust AW protecteds over no-name or ultrafire-branded batteries.


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## srvctec (Dec 22, 2007)

selfbuilt said:


> Just my opinion, but I would tend to trust AW protecteds over no-name or ultrafire-branded batteries.



Cool! Thanks for the info- just saved me some bucks!


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## Philbee (Dec 22, 2007)

[http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g189/Philbee3224/IMG_2556.jpg]
Ultrafire protected 14500

(First try at posting photos, apologies if it didn't work)




Thanks srvctec!


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## srvctec (Dec 22, 2007)

Philbee said:


> [http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g189/Philbee3224/IMG_2556.jpg]
> Ultrafire protected 14500
> 
> (First try at posting photos, apologies if it didn't work)



The link works :thumbsup: If you want the pic to show in the thread, just choose the "Direct Link" option on Photobucket and paste that in the window that pops up when you click the "Insert Image" button when posting in a forum.

Wish AW would make their protected like that.


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## robo21 (Dec 23, 2007)

I PM'd AW on this issue. He replied that he will go to work on a new batch of button top 14500 batteries that will eliminate this problem.


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## jsr (Dec 23, 2007)

I finally picked up my Nitecore Defender Infinity today and opened the package tonight. It was actually delivered Tuesday, but I didn't have time to pick up until today and couldn't open till about an hour ago. My first impressions are WOW! I took it apart and it's very well made, chemkoted throughout, smooth threads, good anodizing. The head is a bit lighter than the tail, which is a bit lighter than the body (the tail and body are closer together in color tho). The head is dark grey while the tail and body are really dark grey. The difference isn't huge and it still looks really nice! The clicky is a bit soft, but easy to press. I do wish it could tailstand, but that's a minor issue. Output is great and my stepping up and down of output works perfectly. Right now, I have it set to the lowest low, which is very low, especially with an alkaline. It's comfortable in the hand and all the knurling makes gripping and twisting the head pretty easy. As mentioned previously, the 3-point head does reduce stability when standing on the head, but it's not too bad. The size is pretty small too. Without the strike portion of the bezel and the protruding tailcap, it's similar size to my Jet1 MK1, which is amongst the smallest 1xAA lights. My L1D always felt so much larger than my Jet1 (which is was relatively). I really like the size and feel of the Nitecore DI. It's so much easier to grip than my L1D was also. Output on a 14500 is really bright! Overall, damn I love this light. It will definitely be in my EDC rotation.

EDIT: Played with it a bit more last night and noticed a notable characteristic: When in low and twisting the head to high (tighten head), output stays low for about 0.5s and then turns to high. Also, when in high mode and turning the DI on with the switch, it always starts in low mode for a split second (<<0.5s) and then turns to high. Mine does that reliably, so I'm assuming it's part of its design (how the driver works). I have no problem with it since it reliably gets into the mode I want.

P.S. Regarding 14500s, I have 14500 cells I purchased a while back from e-lectronics.net and they have a nipple, albeit one that protrudes less than the Ultrafire, and they work fine. The nipple definitely seems to aid in preventing gouging into the driver board. Has anyone tried the Trustfires from DX?...I read on DX (from users) that the Trustfires tend to be slightly shorter than the Ultrafires, which may help for the DI.


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## Bonky (Dec 23, 2007)

Strong light baby! Strong light!!


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## ankhbr (Dec 23, 2007)

Has anyone already tried to remove those inscriptions on the light? 

I hope it's not difficult...


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## Daniel_sk (Dec 23, 2007)

ankhbr said:


> Has anyone already tried to remove those inscriptions on the light?
> 
> I hope it's not difficult...


It's laser engraved, so you can't just remove it. It's going to be difficult. Maybe black paint? Or just a permanent marker?


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## Rzr800 (Dec 23, 2007)

robo21 said:


> I PM'd AW on this issue. He replied that he will go to work on a new batch of button top 14500 batteries that will eliminate this problem.


 
Thanks for doing so and getting back with us. It is also comforting to know that nobody on here feels that anybody in the entire world makes a better quality protected battery than AW, per my request above (I will wait for what he comes up with also).


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## WadeF (Dec 23, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> I have had a bad experience with a magnet on a 18650 in MR Bulks Chameleon. The light was setting on my desk. I accidently bumped the light and it fell on it's side. When the light fell over my board got fried. The light wasn't even on. After that I told myself that I would never use those magnets again. I only use the magnets to see if a rechargeable lithium will work if the light will not first light up with a lithium.


 
I've often wondered about that. Looking at my 14500 it would seem the plastic sleeve around the battery would prevent the magnet from slipping off the + terminal. Did the 18650's you were using have as much of a "lip" from the plastic wrap as the 14500's do? I guess it's still possible for the magnet to get around it, and you've had it happen with 18650's.


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## Paul6ppca (Dec 23, 2007)

My prtected cell looks the same.Ultrafire.
If Aw does come out with a good button top Ill get some for sure!




ernsanada said:


> This is +ve side on an Ultrafire Unprotected 14500. I'm not sure if the the Ultrafire Protected 14500 +ve side looks like this but this maybe a better alternative to the AW's Protected 14500.


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## grinsekatz (Dec 23, 2007)

Hi, I've tried to use UltraFire protected but they are too long.
So there is no contact between the end of the battery tube and the switch.

1st picture: AW LiIon protected.





2nd picture: Eneloop.





3rd picture: UltraFire protected.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 23, 2007)

grinsekatz said:


> Hi, I've tried to use UltraFire protected but they are too long.
> So there is no contact between the end of the battery tube and the switch.


Thanks for posting the pics. I was afraid that would be the an issue (and likely why there is no nipple to start with on AW protected 14500s, I suspect). Given the extra length of protected cells, the added height of the nipple could be a problem on many lights. As it is, I know there are some light that can't even handle the height of regular protected cell without the nipple.


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## CandlePowerForumsUser (Dec 23, 2007)

awe man... to think I ordered some AWs for use with this light. thanks for the heads up. i guess i need to find another 14500 light for my AWs


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## selfbuilt (Dec 23, 2007)

CandlePowerForumsUser said:


> awe man... to think I ordered some AWs for use with this light. thanks for the heads up. i guess i need to find another 14500 light for my AWs


Don't worry about it - give 'em a try. As I said, all 3 of mine work without problem. :thumbsup: And as grinsekatz posted, its protected ultrafires that don't fit.


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## grinsekatz (Dec 23, 2007)

selfbuilt said:


> Don't worry about it - give 'em a try. As I said, all 3 of mine work without problem. :thumbsup: And as grinsekatz posted, its protected ultrafires that don't fit.


 
I agree with that. My 2 AWs work quite fine in my 3 NiteCores.
Well, not at the same time of course. 

The UltraFires have the same length as the AWs but the positive nipple gives them too much length (please apologize my bad english ).

Best regards

Alex


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## CandlePowerForumsUser (Dec 23, 2007)

thanks selfbuilt and grinsekatz. I guess I just overreacted . I haven't received the light or the batteries. I'll try them out and see if they dig into pill. if it does, I'm sure I can make it better.


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## jsr (Dec 23, 2007)

Ok, I couldn't resist posting a few pics. I really love this light. Along with the lack of tailstand capability, I think the only other con is the lack of a clip (why is it so hard for companies to understand the need for a clip on an EDC? They have clips for 1xAAA lights, which can just be attached to my keychain, but for 1xAA lights where you don't have the keychain option, a clip would be perfect). Anyways, I resolved that with the addition of a clip from one of my Gerber IUs (a fellow "Infinity"). I think the clip matches the DI quite well.











The bad thing is that the Gerber clip is quite difficult to get on, so it resulted in two small nicks in the teeth of my DI (at 2 and 9 o'clock positions).


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## jayke (Dec 23, 2007)

Hi,

My Ultrafire protected 14500 were way too fat to fit in the tube. I am using unprotected Ultrafire 14500 in it now. I have not had any problems with any type of Ultrafire batts (protected or unprotected). Does anyone have Protected Ultrafire batts that will fit and have the positive nipple?


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## Paul6ppca (Dec 23, 2007)

My 2 ultrafire were too long to fit in a mini mag hot wire,So they are definitly longer.I would have thought the spring would make enough difference to fit.I guess not.Ill try mine when it arrives.


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## Rzr800 (Dec 23, 2007)

grinsekatz said:


> Hi, I've tried to use UltraFire protected but they are too long.
> So there is no contact between the end of the battery tube and the switch.
> 
> 1st picture: AW LiIon protected.
> ...


 
Is the upcoming buttoned AW14500 going to poke us out just as far (or close to it) as the UltraFire does (above) anyways?


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## ernsanada (Dec 23, 2007)

WadeF said:


> I've often wondered about that. Looking at my 14500 it would seem the plastic sleeve around the battery would prevent the magnet from slipping off the + terminal. Did the 18650's you were using have as much of a "lip" from the plastic wrap as the 14500's do? I guess it's still possible for the magnet to get around it, and you've had it happen with 18650's.




No lip fron the plastic sleeve. Actually it does have a lip but it was even with the +ve anode.


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## regulator (Dec 23, 2007)

On the AW cell, you could just tap the tab completly flat if it is sticking up a little and even file/sand any sharpness off of the tab so that it would not cause any scratches to the underside of the light.


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## MiniLux (Dec 23, 2007)

Got UltraFire 14500 protected cells from batteryjunction some weeks ago.
Comparing these with Eneloops, they're about the same length, maybe at most one or two 10th of mm difference.
I do have TrustFire 14500 protected too, and these are indeed a bit longer (several mms)!
So maybe *grinsekatz* does have another version of UltraFire 14500 protected cells?


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## ernsanada (Dec 23, 2007)

I decided to see what I could do to the +ve anode of the AW Protected 14500.

I hit the top with a file and some sandpaper.

Before.






After.


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## ernsanada (Dec 23, 2007)

I think a burr towards the center caused by a spot weld may have been cutting into the rear of the module.











File and sanded the +ve anode.


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## Flic (Dec 24, 2007)

I received three DIs last week and finally got around to spending time with them. After lubing o-rings and threads all units work perfectly! Switch, bezel, UI - all perfect! Did I just luck out? Ernie, my AW 14500s have a strip that runs across the entire + end and I have had no problems in the DIs to date. Just in case I have reverted to Energizer lithium primaries and the performance has been great. To be on the safe side (given the amount of twisting the DI is likely to see) I'll be ordering AW bateries with buttons as they become available.

NiteCore, this is a great light!!! I'll gladly buy another when they are made without all the markings, and maybe with an R2 or higher emitter.


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## grinsekatz (Dec 24, 2007)

MiniLux said:


> Got UltraFire 14500 protected cells from batteryjunction some weeks ago.
> Comparing these with Eneloops, they're about the same length, maybe at most one or two 10th of mm difference.
> I do have TrustFire 14500 protected too, and these are indeed a bit longer (several mms)!
> So maybe *grinsekatz* does have another version of UltraFire 14500 protected cells?


 
Hi,
Mine came from DealExtreme and it is the positive nipple that gives them the 'extra-length' - unfortunately. Without this detail they would have the same length as the AWs and would fit.
Also I'm afraid that the new AWs - with positive nipple - will be too long as well.
If the NiteCores batterytube would be only 2 mm longer the UFs would work I think - maybe in the future.


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## phantom23 (Dec 24, 2007)

Get Trustfire protected 14500. Fits fine.





PS. Lens in my NDI are very very dirty.


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## lebox97 (Dec 24, 2007)

cuz there are people like me who have absolutely no use or desire for a clip on their EDC? 



jsr said:


> ... I think the only other con is the lack of a clip (why is it so hard for companies to understand the need for a clip on an EDC?


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## jsr (Dec 24, 2007)

lebox97 - haha, no problem. But it'd be great if companies included a detachable clip to cover both parties.

BTW, for those interested, the parts from my Jet1 MKI all fit onto the NDI, all threads match. The Jet1 tailcap won't work on the NDI body as it doesn't make contact, but you can use the whole Jet1 body/tailcap on the NDI head and it works. The UI gets a bit strange as it easily enters a hidden beacon mode then, but it still does work. Plus, I have a 2-stage Jet1 tailcap, so there's another way to get to low (tho using a resistor for low with Li-Ions is not efficient).


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## robo21 (Dec 24, 2007)

@ ernsanada Big improvement. That looks safe now. :thumbsup:


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## matrixshaman (Dec 24, 2007)

For anyone with a hard to turn head (as mine was a bit hard and gritty upon arrival) the solution seemed simple enough. Put on the magnifiers, use a q-tip and a sharp toothpick to carefully clean all the aluminum grit off and re-lube with Nyogel or similar stuff. Now it's easy turning and smooth. I'm guessing most of you know this but sometimes it might take a good magnifier and some careful 'toothpicking' to get it all really clean. This is truly one sweet light! Thanks for another great review ernsanada!


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## Paul6ppca (Dec 24, 2007)

Mine ARRIVED today! They made it before xmas as promised!:twothumbsFirst impression WOW,very bright on both NIHM and lion.Beautiful white beam

My Ultrafire 14500 fit and work no problem as does AW14500.

Mine arrived NO ems in RI(USA)

A big thanks to Nitecore!:twothumbs Great product!


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## ernsanada (Dec 25, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> I think a burr towards the center caused by a spot weld may have been cutting into the rear of the module.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I think if I used a Dremel Tool and just grinded down the spot weld a very little the job would have been a lot nicer looking. I don't have Dremel Tool. I think I may have to pick one up.


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## Paul6ppca (Dec 26, 2007)

selfbuilt said:


> I haven't done runtimes on L91 lithiums (x2x3x2 has), but initial output is basically the same as NiMH or regular alkaline (which is less than 14500). See link in my sig for pre-production review.
> 
> 
> Yes, I've noticed the exact same thing on my pre-production sample (but didn't think to mention it my review, since it was getting pretty long
> ...


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## TOOCOOL (Dec 26, 2007)

You can lego the tailcap onto a Rexlight :thumbsup:


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## regulator (Dec 26, 2007)

Got mine this afternoon! I am extremely happy and mine is pefect.

I have been doing some comparisons to other small lights I have and adjusting brightness by eye to match and then taking current measurments to get an idea of how efficient the light is. I can tell you that the DI is a pretty efficient light. I consider the Fenix P3D to be an efficient light and the DI is matching output/current. 

I can set the brightness of the DI to the medium output on the P3D and they require approximately the same current. This is about 150 mA and puts out a nice amount of light (P3D using a 17670 cell and the DI using a AW 14500 cell both fully charged to just over 4 volts). I can probably expect about 4-5 hours of bright output with the DI at this "nice" output level which is great. I am very happy with this light!!!


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## nanotech17 (Dec 27, 2007)

Ernie,
i use mine with DX protected 14500 and so far so good.
Smooth as silk  while twisting


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## GarageBoy (Dec 27, 2007)

Anyone have a P2D Q5 handy? Seems that mine is brighter than the Infinity I just received.


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## matrixshaman (Dec 27, 2007)

GarageBoy said:


> Anyone have a P2D Q5 handy? Seems that mine is brighter than the Infinity I just received.



Are you using a 14500 in your DI? If not it's not quite a fair comparison although I believe it's been stated that Edgetac didn't make this light to run much brighter on the 14500 than the lower voltage batteries - that they didn't want to have it run too hot on the Li-ions. 
BTW I found another use for my NDI - the teeth on the bezel are sharp enough along the sides to make a good hangnail clipper


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## p1fiend (Dec 27, 2007)

GarageBoy said:


> Anyone have a P2D Q5 handy? Seems that mine is brighter than the Infinity I just received.


 
Yup, the P2D Q5 is much brighter than the Nitecore. The P2D Q5 is my EDC light and the first one I compared the Infinity to. 

Can't really complain though, I didn't expect it to be as bright as the Fenix: it is quite bright for what it is though.


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## phantom23 (Dec 27, 2007)

Remember that NDI has 50% longer runtime on highest mode.


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## Philbee (Dec 27, 2007)

Both my REX2.1 Build 0001 and DX X.1 are brighter than the NDI by a fair margin.
Both have a nice white tint compared to the NDI's greenish yellow.

NDI on high with AW Li-ion 14500 compares to the REX2.1 on high with an Eneloop.

I still prefer the REX2.1 as I find it quicker to get to the level needed with just a couple of clicks compared to the NDI where initially it takes 5 or 6 quick turns of the bezel just to free it up so it can be easily turned to start the ramping process.

In theory it sounds good but in actual use it's complexity for the sake of complexity, just my opinion anyway.

The REX2.1 remains my EDC for the time being.


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## nMotion96 (Dec 27, 2007)

p1fiend said:


> Yup, the P2D Q5 is much brighter than the Nitecore. The P2D Q5 is my EDC light and the first one I compared the Infinity to.
> 
> Can't really complain though, I didn't expect it to be as bright as the Fenix: it is quite bright for what it is though.



the p2d is suppose to be 180 lumens and the nitecore is 180-190 lumens but the p2d is brighter in person? so does that mean the p2d is putting out more or is the nitecore putting out less?


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## matrixshaman (Dec 28, 2007)

nMotion96 said:


> the p2d is suppose to be 180 lumens and the nitecore is 180-190 lumens but the p2d is brighter in person? so does that mean the p2d is putting out more or is the nitecore putting out less?



What it means is that HIS Nitecore does not appear as bright as HIS P2D. There are always these variations in even the most expensive lights. Side by side the same exact model in some of the finest built production lights you are going to see tint and lumen output variations that are clearly noticeable. My NDI is putting out as much as a light that I've got claiming 200 Lumens - and it was my brightest LED light but now it's got a rival that appears the same. However that claimed 200 Lumens is probably more like 140-150 out the front. I still am just ballparking that too based on other lights with fairly well known outputs. 
If I could find my P2D I'd give you a beamshot comparison but it seems to be another temporary casualty of recent light shuffling - I know it'll show up sometime though.

I was trying a test with my Nitecore tonight to try to get the low battery warning to come on. I put a used Alkaline in it that was reading low on the voltmeter. I then shorted the Alkaline out several times for a few seconds to get it lower. Once it got down to about 1.15 volts I put it in the Nitecore. At first it didn't want to come on but after several tries it lit up. I left it on at least 90 minutes and it kept getting just a little dimmer than where it started (a lot dimmer than a fresh battery). But I never saw a low battery warning before I gave up as I wanted it for another test. When I pulled the battery out it was reading 1.04 volts! Just before pulling it out I switched it off and back on. It would not light and I tried several times as well as waiting while it was on but it did not come back on. So if you are in a situation where you are running on a low battery and you need light but don't have anything else (if you're a real flashaholic that won't happen  ) then don't turn this light off or you may not get it to come back on if the battery is really low - and you'll know that because it will be way less bright than a fresh battery.


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## Philbee (Dec 28, 2007)

Mine is behaving very strangely.
Ocassionly starts in a slow strobe of once every 3 seconds, requires 2 or 3 goes before it stays on, the same thing happens sometimes when switching off, it wont switch off but goes into slow strobe mode, once again 2 or 3 goes before final shutdown.
Happens in both tactical and user mode.

A few times tonight it has come on of its own accord when placed bezel down on the table, this was after it had been switched off.

Once I lightly touched the tailcap and the light started flickering without turning off, required a hard press to stop.

Just a while back switched it on in user mode (low setting) and the light starts low strobe in tactical high.

Never know what to expect each time I click that button! :thinking:


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## Paul6ppca (Dec 28, 2007)

Id take a look at the swithc,maybe try a replacement


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## Jay T (Dec 28, 2007)

matrixshaman said:


> Are you using a 14500 in your DI? If not it's not quite a fair comparison although I believe it's been stated that Edgetac didn't make this light to run much brighter on the 14500 than the lower voltage batteries - that they didn't want to have it run too hot on the Li-ions.
> BTW I found another use for my NDI - the teeth on the bezel are sharp enough along the sides to make a good hangnail clipper



It is a 100% fair comparison. Nightcore claims 180 lumens from a standard AA battery and 190 from a Li-Ion. IF they are going to claim 180 then their light should be compared to other 180 lumen lights. If their light does not make the claimed amount then they should be called out.


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## thermal guy (Dec 28, 2007)

All light is not created equal.there is no perceived difference between 150 and say 180 LM also one light that puts out 180LM may not look like another light that puts out 180LM. Emitter,reflector and other parameters play a roll in this.I think sometimes we get to hung up on LM just my opinion


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## MetalZone (Dec 29, 2007)

matrixshaman said:


> I was trying a test with my Nitecore tonight to try to get the low battery warning to come on. I put a used Alkaline in it that was reading low on the voltmeter. I then shorted the Alkaline out several times for a few seconds to get it lower. Once it got down to about 1.15 volts I put it in the Nitecore. At first it didn't want to come on but after several tries it lit up. I left it on at least 90 minutes and it kept getting just a little dimmer than where it started (a lot dimmer than a fresh battery). But I never saw a low battery warning before I gave up as I wanted it for another test. When I pulled the battery out it was reading 1.04 volts! Just before pulling it out I switched it off and back on. It would not light and I tried several times as well as waiting while it was on but it did not come back on. So if you are in a situation where you are running on a low battery and you need light but don't have anything else (if you're a real flashaholic that won't happen  ) then don't turn this light off or you may not get it to come back on if the battery is really low - and you'll know that because it will be way less bright than a fresh battery.



Apparently the low battery warning was only designed for Li-Ion?

I was looking around the forums to see if anybody experienced the same thing i experienced while I was in work today and I found your post. Looks like I'm not alone.
I use eneloops on my NCDI, and was using the same battery(same charge) since I got the NCDI. While I was at work today and using the light (a lot of momentary's and short turn-on's), suddenly the right refused to turn on. I thought, oh crap... I don't want my favourite light to fail. I tightened, loosened, disassembled and wiped the contacts and reassembled. Phew, it worked when i pressed the momentary click, but it was short lived as it immediately refused to light up again in the second momentary click. To cut the long story short, in my attempts, I had to wait a few minutes before the light would light up again. I soon realized that my battery was low when I realized the light isn't as bright as it used to be. When it does light up, it will stay lit until you turn it off. You can still change modes and ramp brightness, until you turn the light off. Momentary flashes will only flash on the first press. My lowest brightness user set brightness won't even come on until you wait for a few minutes from the last light. I estimate the brightness at which this problem happens is around 40-60% brightness. All the runtime tests to this date are thus POINTLESS. Because we never realized the light refuses to even turn on when there's still adequate power to at least light up at a lower mode.

I don't know how many other people experience this but this is the biggest downside of this light for me. I really do love this light, but this problem has degraded my confidence of this light being a life saver. In a state of emergency when the light decides for itself that it won't light up because of low power (on non-Lithiums) thats gonna be a real big bummer when you really need it.
This feature may prevent Li-Ion/LiPo fireballs but I don't need this with my NiMH's.

Now I'm just hoping that only a few of our lights are affected by this problem and it can be fixed with an RMA


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## illusion (Dec 29, 2007)

Just got my light today and i liked it. Can any of you explain to a noob what a "eneloop" battery is? (English isnt my first language)


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## MetalZone (Dec 29, 2007)

It's the Sanyo Eneloop NiMH battery


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## illusion (Dec 29, 2007)

MetalZone said:


> It's the Sanyo Eneloop NiMH battery



Ok, so there is only one battery called "eneloop" and thats the sanyo!?!


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## MetalZone (Dec 29, 2007)

illusion said:


> Ok, so there is only one battery called "eneloop" and thats the sanyo!?!



Yep


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## matrixshaman (Dec 29, 2007)

Right - the Eneloop is their name for their LSD (low self discharge) NiMh battery.


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## cmacclel (Dec 29, 2007)

V8TOYTRUCK said:


> I was really hoping for a good looking poor mans Titan.



+1 I thought everone said this was the poor mans Titan? The Use interface is nothing like the Titans. 

The Flupic that has been around for years has fully user adjustable levels just like alot of the other boards out there.

I was going to buy one a few minutes ago...I'm glad I said "Hmm let me look at the reviews again".

Great Review as always :thumbsup:

Mac


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## Darell (Dec 29, 2007)

cmacclel said:


> +1 I thought everone said this was the poor mans Titan? The Use interface is nothing like the Titans.


Wrong and right.

Not everybody has called this the Poor Man's Titan. And you are correct - the UI is NOTHING like the Titan's.

I just recieved my Nitecore, and fooled with it last night. I would SO love to edit the manual into real English! Is it that hard to find a native English speaker to just make a pass over the printed materials before publishing?

The light itself is no different than folks have said many times on this thread. Good quality and finish. The UI is relatively easy to operate, and is quite novel. What I do NOT like is the delay between "low" and "tactical." I also don't like the fact that when in "tactical" mode (this just means full output) that using the momentary feature means the light first comes on in low, and quickly goes to high. You can NOT just flash in high. Then try this for fun: Run it in low, then turn the light off, and twist the bezel tight for high. Now use momentary for a quick shot. It will be low. It will ALWAYS be low until you leave it on for longer than about one second.

Anyway - It is a great first offering, and I'm happy to say that it is not a rip-off of somebody else's UI. It is refreshing to find something "new" even if it has its quirks.


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## [email protected] (Dec 29, 2007)

The fraction of a second it takes to switch to full isn't bothering me, it's hardly noticable. It only takes about half a second when the light isn't shut off in high to switch to full, if it is shut off in full mode it's barely a flicker to full.
Are you saying yours takes longer? :shrug:


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## ernsanada (Dec 29, 2007)

These lights are all using freshly charged 14500's. All lights except the Olight T15 Q5 are using AW's Protected 14500's. The Olight T15 Q5 is using an Ultrafire Unprotected 14500, this was the only 14500 that could fit the Olight T15 Q5.


Left to Right, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5, Olight T15 Q5, Dex Light, Rex Light, Jet beam MKII X







Left to Right, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5, Olight T15 Q5, Dex Light, Rex Light, Jet beam MKII X







Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, AW Protected 14500 @ 32'






Olight T15 Q5, Ultrafire Unprotected 14500 @ 32'






Dex Light, AW Protected 14500 @ 32'






Rex Light, AW Protected 14500 @ 32'






Jet Beam MKII X, AW Protected 14500 @ 32'


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## jsr (Dec 30, 2007)

The Olight almost looks like a 2x123A/17670 light next to the other lights. It definitely as more throw, but for something that small, I'd rather have compactness.

Damn, that Dexlight looks bright!

Any pics of your awesome 1xAA collection ersanada?


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## ernsanada (Dec 30, 2007)

jsr said:


> The Olight almost looks like a 2x123A/17670 light next to the other lights. It definitely as more throw, but for something that small, I'd rather have compactness.
> 
> Damn, that Dexlight looks bright!
> 
> Any pics of your awesome 1xAA collection ersanada?


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## swxb12 (Dec 30, 2007)

ernsanada, sorry to go OT but what light is the one between the two LM F1s? The one with lots of knurling and a wide head. Nice collection...


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## ernsanada (Dec 30, 2007)

swxb12 said:


> ernsanada, sorry to go OT but what light is the one between the two LM F1s? The one with lots of knurling and a wide head. Nice collection...



TNC's Key Lux AA


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## Dreamer (Dec 30, 2007)

ernsanada said:


>


 
Awesome AA collections. So, which one is your fav?


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## 4sevens (Dec 30, 2007)

ernsanada said:


>



Awesome collection! 

A little bit of history... did you know the Fenix L1P debuted in August 2004 as 
the world first luxeon flashlight using the single AA?


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## Rzr800 (Dec 30, 2007)

4sevens said:


> "...A little bit of history... did you know the *Fenix* L1P *debuted* in August *2004* as
> *the world first* luxeon flashlight *using the single AA?*


 
November 2nd *2007*:
Is Edgetac the first company in world history to debut a single AA like this?









 A Genuine AA Tactical Light--NiteCore® Defender Infinity from EDGE Tactical Light Co. (



1 2 3 4 5 ... Last Page) 

*Posts Views*
by mandrake 

​*1,594** 106,638*


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## lebox97 (Dec 30, 2007)

I think it is the first single AA using a Q5?


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## robo21 (Dec 30, 2007)

Darell said:


> Wrong and right.
> 
> Not everybody has called this the Poor Man's Titan. And you are correct - the UI is NOTHING like the Titan's.
> 
> ...


 
While it is true that the UI is unlike the Titan the infinitely varaible output is valuable - to me anyway. 

As far as the quirkiness goes, if you simply tighten the bezel before turning the light off the momentary user defined issue disappears.


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## jeffb (Dec 30, 2007)

Hi Razr.........

I don't quite know what you mean by "is Edgetac the first company in world history to debut a single AA like this?".

There have been discussions regarding "tactical" on this board, and I won't go there...........perhaps the UI? Fenix has manufactured AA multi-level lights, as have others.

Arc (AA) and TnC Keylux (AA) were and are very popular among CPF'ers, however in their "original" form, they were single level lights.

TnC is now producing a 700ma version that uses a flu-pic.....I have one that has a Seoul P4 flu-pic that I sometimes carry, as I really like the machining and Seoul beam and dual level.





I have a Surefire "Titan" that IS truly variable brightness and from my reading of this thread.....EdgeTac states

"Unique Infinitely Variable Digital-controlled Brightness System"

seems a stretch.......to me (Infinitely), as does their specification

"Maximum output 190 lumens".........quite a claim??

Have handled and owned Fenix and other lights that I (note I) consider in this category and none come close to the machining of the TnC light. (The cost reflects this, as well). 

So, like Mac, I will pass on Edge lights as personally the "advertising" deters me from buying. 

Obviously, others like Edge's lights and perhaps for their "category "(my definition) they are "good" lights.

Here is another picture HA Nat is 350ms and "Red" is 200ma (Keylux AA)





jeffb


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## ernsanada (Dec 30, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> These lights are all using freshly charged 14500's. All lights except the Olight T15 Q5 are using AW's Protected 14500's. The Olight T15 Q5 is using an Ultrafire Unprotected 14500, this was the only 14500 that could fit the Olight T15 Q5.
> 
> 
> Left to Right, Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5, Olight T15 Q5, Dex Light, Rex Light, Jet beam MKII X
> ...



Added Fenix L1D CE, AW Protected 14500 @ 32'


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## Rzr800 (Dec 30, 2007)

jeffb said:


> "Hi Razr......
> I don't quite know what you mean by "is Edgetac the first company in world history to debut a single AA like this...EdgeTac states
> 
> "Unique Infinitely Variable Digital-controlled Brightness System"
> ...


 
Thanks for the opinion and the specs./pics. of those other lights, Jeff (I can see why you'd be partial to them). My earlier reference to 4seven's mention of Fenix light debuts and 2AA world history concerned what has transpired here on CPF in relation to the NDI; post counts/views and overall hype history. I thought it was 'quite a claim' (also) for the LODQ4 to be putting out 75 lumens and bought 10 of them...only to find out from Wade (and others here at CPF) that a 50% claimed jump in lumen output was pretty much par for the course in the flashlight industry (got all worked up over the A1 and bought/enjoy that one also)

Anyways, got both of them; love 'em both...and (as you mentioned above) that's all that really matters.


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## 4sevens (Dec 30, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> Nitecore Defender Infinity Q5 OP, AW Protected 14500 @ 32'
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks pretty close to me...
The L1D's spot is slightly more intense. I've noticed that too.

I just did a runtime and eyeball test between my L1D Q5 and DI Q5 with
fresh enloops and both on max. The L1D Q5 is slightly brighter and after 15
minutes, the L1D Q5 is cool to the touch while the DI is noticably warm.

The DI does have an advantage in that it is able to have a low mode with 14500's.


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## greenstuffs (Dec 30, 2007)

Good thing i did not live up the hype of this light. It does not look special to me. The UI seems pretty complicated too much twisting back and forth. I really thought this would be like the titan yet again it is not. 

The big question is that there are lots of this being on sale at the BST wonder whats the real reason behind it. Light looks cool may be the UI is bad like the MKIIx from Jetbeam. :thinking:


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## srvctec (Dec 30, 2007)

greenstuffs said:


> Good thing i did not live up the hype of this light. It does not look special to me. The UI seems pretty complicated too much twisting back and forth. I really thought this would be like the titan yet again it is not.
> 
> The big question is that there are lots of this being on sale at the BST wonder whats the real reason behind it. Light looks cool may be the UI is bad like the MKIIx from Jetbeam. :thinking:



 It's one of the simplest and most perfect UIs there is IMO- couldn't be much easier. I've only twisted mine a couple of times to set my user defined mode and will only need to twist it again when I need to set a different level or go to high- not that big of a deal really, but to each his own.


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## qadsan (Dec 31, 2007)

srvctec, I agree with you. The UI is very simple and quick to operate. My wife and my kids have no trouble with it. It's definitely the best AA + 14500 light I've owned or played with and I really like the action of their forward clicky. There's good reason for them to be snapped up quickly at close to full retail in the BST section. If they were duds, you'd see them selling for a lot less momey.


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## matrixshaman (Dec 31, 2007)

greenstuffs said:


> Good thing i did not live up the hype of this light. It does not look special to me. The UI seems pretty complicated too much twisting back and forth. I really thought this would be like the titan yet again it is not.
> 
> The big question is that there are lots of this being on sale at the BST wonder whats the real reason behind it. Light looks cool may be the UI is bad like the MKIIx from Jetbeam. :thinking:



UI too complicated? Hmmm. If you own one you probably won't think so. I think it is a special light in many ways. I can't put it down and I've got a lot of great lights including customs. 
Lots on sale on B/S/T because IMO a huge interest like this generated got some people who had extra money excited enough to buy 5 or 10 and give some away and then cherry pick the best for themselves. Then sell the rest and make a few bucks - especially with the way the pricing on these was promoted. I even counted on this happening and that's why I got one fast while others were still waiting. 
IMO this light truly stands out from the crowd of production lights.


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## cd-card-biz (Dec 31, 2007)

I think I have a problem with my DI.

Using a fully charged AW 14500, the DI goes into 2-second "low battery" warning when on high. At that point, I have no control over the UI by twisting bezel, etc. I have to turn the light off to get back to low mode or use the UI again. Tried using two different new 14500's.

Anyone have a possible explanation?


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## kenzo (Dec 31, 2007)

greenstuffs said:


> Light looks cool may be the UI is bad like the MKIIx from Jetbeam. :thinking:




Hmm.. i know this is knida offtopic ;p (dont want to start a thread just to ask this...) But.. can i ask why people think the MKIIx UI is very bad? 
(i've received a mkIIx for the christmas present thing~thanks again btw) and i really like the UI alot. 
After you change it to advanced mode, It always starts in advanced mode high and all the modes i need are the first 3 [ High > strobe > low ] . Once turned off it resets to high again.

I don't know ;p but i really like the UI of jetbeam for some strange reason (even though i've read that alot of you guys hate it).


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## Patriot (Dec 31, 2007)

After having used this light for a week now I do find the UI more complicated than it needed to be. I think the mode changes would have made much more if they were actuated with soft switch presses instead of bezel rotations. I also don't like the speed of the programmable sweep as I believe it's too fast. I can tell that it's one of those lights that's easy to forget if it's been put away for a few weeks or longer. I wasn't overly impressed with the output either and it was surprising to me that so many other AAs are on par with this light while the Dex light is far brighter. I personally feel that this is a $40-$50 light and would not purchase it again unless I got the same deal. That said, I'd like to see an improvement in the output and UI.

Great review and pictures. Thanks ernsanada for all the comparison and collection pics. Those were really great.


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## AFAustin (Dec 31, 2007)

cd-card-biz said:


> I think I have a problem with my DI.
> 
> Using a fully charged AW 14500, the DI goes into 2-second "low battery" warning when on high. At that point, I have no control over the UI by twisting bezel, etc. I have to turn the light off to get back to low mode or use the UI again. Tried using two different new 14500's.
> 
> Anyone have a possible explanation?



c-c-b,

I really like my DI, but have continued to see some erratic behavior with the UI. selfbuilt advised that he thought lube on the head threads was the likely culprit, and both he and 4sevens made some good suggestions to counter this: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/180378&page=11

I'm now trying selfbuilt's "dry" method, and it seems to be the best so far, but I still have intermittent problems. However, they're not so serious as to prevent me from enjoying this very nice light.

Don't know if any of this will help in your situation, but might be worth a try.


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## cd-card-biz (Dec 31, 2007)

Many thanks AF!

I did put some Nanolube on my DI.

I'll get it good and clean tomorrow and see how it works after that.

I do like the light alot and find the UI easy enough.

Thanks again,
Bill


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## frisco (Dec 31, 2007)

I took the front O-ring out and put heavy lube on the threads..... Awesone.... one hand operation.

The light is clumsy if you have to use two hands.

After a couple days with this light...... I really like it! Very well made!

frisco


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## Rzr800 (Dec 31, 2007)

qadsan said:


> "..There's good reason for them to be snapped up quickly at close to full retail in the BST section. If they were duds, you'd see them selling for a lot less money..."


 
As there is good reason that the mod's advice in the closed thread is often not being followed here on the *last* major review thread that we have left for this light. It was bad enough that a sale couldn't even hardly take place without the negative crap that we've already witnessed; yet heaven help this light (and Edgetac) if the damn thing actually _worked_ or indeed sold like wildfire on the B/S & T immediately afterwards.

Here's my review:

I'd buy it simply because it _is_ the poor man's Titan....*it works like a champ* for the average Joe who can't afford one....and it beat the _snot_ out of every other American or overseas company owner/distributor sorry that they didn't produce or sell the same damn thing sooner.  

Oh and uh...*Happy New Years* everybody! (I've been waiting to use that little guy....).


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## srvctec (Dec 31, 2007)

cd-card-biz said:


> I think I have a problem with my DI.
> 
> Using a fully charged AW 14500, the DI goes into 2-second "low battery" warning when on high. At that point, I have no control over the UI by twisting bezel, etc. I have to turn the light off to get back to low mode or use the UI again. Tried using two different new 14500's.
> 
> Anyone have a possible explanation?



Sounds like exactly the problem I was having and it turned out to be operator error on my part. See my post and EdgeTac's response here. This took care of my problem.


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## greenstuffs (Dec 31, 2007)

The reason we don't like the Jetbeam UI is because we don't need the advance mode, my light would get into advanced while trying to switch modes in user mode. Just like people don't need a programable toaster we don't need increments of 10% on the light which are barely perceived by the eye only 2 or 3 steps you could see a difference. 

The UI of the nitecore IMO it's complicated because you need to twist and tight all in a very fast sequence under .5 secs twist some more and get into user mode and more twists... i've seen the video made by a fellow CPF and this light is not for me. It sounds fun to play but the main reason i discarded this light is the usage of 14500 a battery that is not available over the counter and the need to carry a charger if you want premium output. 2 x CR123 or 1 x CR123 would been the choice for me. 

Another point i would like to add is that I don't think the lanyard is made with premium 550 paracord as they claim because premium paracord is made in the USA with 7 inner strands. The lanyard provided by nitecore probably has 5 inner strands like most overseas paracords. There is a difference between the feel and touch of imported and premium paracord. I just wanted to add this point because this light seems very serious about tactical gear but if you are not using premium tactical paracord made with premium paracord then its something else. Tactical lights do use CR123 batteries as well. 

After saying that i do believe this is a good light but i don't think there is a value like surefires where you can sell them a yr later around the same price you paid for. There is just no value in Chinese Lights these will be in the bst for $50 in the next couple month at bst and people would hardly buy them. How much are you willing to pay for a MKXII now $40? 




kenzo said:


> Hmm.. i know this is knida offtopic ;p (dont want to start a thread just to ask this...) But.. can i ask why people think the MKIIx UI is very bad?
> (i've received a mkIIx for the christmas present thing~thanks again btw) and i really like the UI alot.
> After you change it to advanced mode, It always starts in advanced mode high and all the modes i need are the first 3 [ High > strobe > low ] . Once turned off it resets to high again.
> 
> I don't know ;p but i really like the UI of jetbeam for some strange reason (even though i've read that alot of you guys hate it).


----------



## LightJaguar (Jan 1, 2008)

greenstuffs said:


> The reason we don't like the Jetbeam UI is because we don't need the advance mode, my light would get into advanced while trying to switch modes in user mode. Just like people don't need a programable toaster we don't need increments of 10% on the light which are barely perceived by the eye only 2 or 3 steps you could see a difference.
> 
> The UI of the nitecore IMO it's complicated because you need to twist and tight all in a very fast sequence under .5 secs twist some more and get into user mode and more twists... i've seen the video made by a fellow CPF and this light is not for me. It sounds fun to play but the main reason i discarded this light is the usage of 14500 a battery that is not available over the counter and the need to carry a charger if you want premium output. 2 x CR123 or 1 x CR123 would been the choice for me.
> 
> ...


 
I don't quite get it. It seems like you have not had the chance to actually handle the DI and yet you have all this negative things to say about it. 
Output on my DI with an eneloop is about the same as when using a 14500. Using an eneloop on my DI the brightness level is almost the same as my Dexlight X1 on a 14500. Impressive me thinks. It is also much brighter then most SureFires that I own but I won't go there.
By the way where did you get the idea that so called "tactical" lights only use CR123s (if that is what you are implying)? I was in the US Armed Forces for a number of years and in my humble opinion the DI is more then qulified to be used in "tactical" situations.


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## greenstuffs (Jan 1, 2008)

Try to switch from max to strobe 1 handed with a weapon in another hand. Not very tactical IMO. I've seen the video and the UI it's just too much. Gladius is better alternative with a solid grip and a great holster. I have nothing against the light I did buy a Raidfire and looking forward to get it. 




LightJaguar said:


> I don't quite get it. It seems like you have not had the chance to actually handle the DI and yet you have all this negative things to say about it.
> Output on my DI with an eneloop is about the same as when using a 14500. Using an eneloop on my DI the brightness level is almost the same as my Dexlight X1 on a 14500. Impressive me thinks. It is also much brighter then most SureFires that I own but I won't go there.
> By the way where did you get the idea that so called "tactical" lights only use CR123s (if that is what you are implying)? I was in the US Armed Forces for a number of years and in my humble opinion the DI is more then qulified to be used in "tactical" situations.


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## Rzr800 (Jan 1, 2008)

greenstuffs said:


> "Try to switch from max to strobe 1 handed with a weapon in another hand. Not very tactical IMO..."


 
Not sure if you have actually used the light or if yours is maybe different..but the amount of effort needed to toggle between strobe and max on mine (with nanolube on the threads) could be described as pretty much a 'micro-twist' (very easily done, imo). Not arguing with your opinion; just pointing out how mine seems to work.


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## wwglen (Jan 1, 2008)

greenstuffs said:


> Try to switch from max to strobe 1 handed with a weapon in another hand. Not very tactical IMO.



And most of the TACTICAL lights don't even have strobe or multiple levels.

I bought mine to use when I get my carry permit.

Works just as good in high power "TACTICAL" mode as my streamlights and the surefires I had.

Works better as an EDC with the addition of the low/variable output.

Works with AA batteries which are cheaper than 123's and easier to find.

Rechargables are a safer technology than rechargable Lithiums.

Weighs LESS than the streamlights and surefires and is brighter.

The ONLY drawback I can see for a TACTICAL use is durability as they don't have the track record of the surefire/streamlights.


wwglen


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## WadeF (Jan 1, 2008)

I can switch from strobe to high with either hand. Not sure if I would ever need to do this, but I can manage it easily. Maybe try better lube or you may not have a strong enough grip (no offense meant).


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## bltkmt (Jan 2, 2008)

I have had mine for about a week now and must say that I love it. I was lucky enough to get in on the $40 deal and wish I had been able to purchase more of them at that price. I really like the fit and finish of this light, and LOVE that I can set it for a really low low that will come on with a click (great for bedside light). This is now my favorite AA light.


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## bltkmt (Jan 2, 2008)

mchlwise said:


> The NightCore is a simple two-stage light out of the box too. Head tight = really bright, head loose = not.


 
Precisely why I love this light. Can you (or anyone) suggest any other AA or AAA lights that operate in this manner? A nice low, and a useful high?

Thanks.


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## MetalZone (Jan 2, 2008)

Patriot36 said:


> I think the mode changes would have made much more if they were actuated with soft switch presses instead of bezel rotations. I also don't like the speed of the programmable sweep as I believe it's too fast.



What you requested here is a reverse clicky. Which means you can't do momentary on. If thats what you're looking for. The Fenix P*D and L*D models fits your description as they have a reverse clicky. One of the reasons why I bought the NCDI is because of the forward clicky. It's technically impossible to switch modes with a soft touch and yet have a forward clicky.

It seems that some users here have to twist their light's bezel really fast, within 0.5 secs. But mine seems to have no problem doing it slower, at about 1 second.

Did anyone read me and matrixshaman's post on page 4 about the light not turning on when the battery is low? Interested to know if others experience the same thing and what are your thoughts.


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## LightJaguar (Jan 2, 2008)

MetalZone said:


> What you requested here is a reverse clicky. Which means you can't do momentary on. If thats what you're looking for. The Fenix P*D and L*D models fits your description as they have a reverse clicky. One of the reasons why I bought the NCDI is because of the forward clicky. It's technically impossible to switch modes with a soft touch and yet have a forward clicky.
> 
> It seems that some users here have to twist their light's bezel really fast, within 0.5 secs. But mine seems to have no problem doing it slower, at about 1 second.
> 
> Did anyone read me and matrixshaman's post on page 4 about the light not turning on when the battery is low? Interested to know if others experience the same thing and what are your thoughts.


 

Hmmm now that I think about my DI did that with two sets of eneloops so far. At the time I assumed that the eneloops where very low and they could just not power up the light. The light would go off with no warning but I could get it back to work if I turned it on and off a few times. With a fresh new battery it would work properly and not have problems at all. Now that I read this I went back and checked my eneloops and they are both at 1.2V. I'm not quite sure why it might be doing that but I'll check on it further.


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## srvctec (Jan 2, 2008)

LightJaguar said:


> Hmmm now that I think about my DI did that with two sets of eneloops so far. At the time I assumed that the eneloops where very low and they could just not power up the light. The light would go off with no warning but I could get it back to work if I turned it on and off a few times. With a fresh new battery it would work properly and not have problems at all. Now that I read this I went back and checked my eneloops and they are both at 1.2V. I'm not quite sure why it might be doing that but I'll check on it further.



It might be something as simple as a bad connection between the head/tailcap and body. When I got mine a week ago, I was having similar issues. I checked the resistance between the ends of the tube and it varied considerably from 1 or 2 ohms to several ohms- don't remember exactly what the high reading was, but I remember thinking "dang that's high". So I sanded the ends of the tube with 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper and then used De-Oxit on all conducting surfaces. I've had no issues at all with it since and use it daily. It's still on the first 14500 I put in it (a week ago) with a starting voltage of 4.0V.


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## MetalZone (Jan 3, 2008)

srvctec said:


> It might be something as simple as a bad connection between the head/tailcap and body. When I got mine a week ago, I was having similar issues. I checked the resistance between the ends of the tube and it varied considerably from 1 or 2 ohms to several ohms- don't remember exactly what the high reading was, but I remember thinking "dang that's high". So I sanded the ends of the tube with 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper and then used De-Oxit on all conducting surfaces. I've had no issues at all with it since and use it daily. It's still on the first 14500 I put in it (a week ago) with a starting voltage of 4.0V.



I'm absolutely sure mine wasn't due to contact issues. (see my post on page 4). I use deoxit as well.
It just won't turn on the second time after turning it off / or second momentary press if the battery is low enough. This is the only thing I hate about this light.


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## MetalZone (Jan 7, 2008)

Okay it's confirmed that the light won't light up when the battery is too low on non-Li-Ion's. EdgeTac told me this:

"When you use Li-ion battery, it will perform low-voltage alarming system when the voltage is low and for other batteries, it will not light up when the power is low."

I just wish it won't refuse to turn on with low battery power though (on Ni-MH, non-Li-Ion's). You just might really need it.


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## daich (Jan 8, 2008)

didn't know if anyone did this yet but here's my beamshot comparison with two different types of cells

camera was set to complete manual so the parameters were constant.

with 14500 Li-Ion






with NiMH


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## kilgor (Jan 8, 2008)

I'm guessing that's on low? :thinking:


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## daich (Jan 8, 2008)

no, I just had my aperature way up and my shutter speed very fast so you can see the light output without blown out highlights.


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## srvctec (Jan 8, 2008)

daich said:


> didn't know if anyone did this yet but here's my beamshot comparison with two different types of cells
> 
> camera was set to complete manual so the parameters were constant.
> 
> ...



Exactly why I'm running a 14500 in mine. Super bright if I need it (only occasionally) and super run time on a medium/low setting (what I use 95% of the time). There is also the added benefit of the Li-ion holding it's charge without use much better than NiMh, with the exception of Eneloops, of course. I absolutely love this light for my EDC!!


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## lukestephens777 (Jan 8, 2008)

i received my Nitecore DI yesterday, it's fantastic!!

Great even HA, and very bright output!! :thumbsup:
I had to apply some Nyogel, as it was a bit squeaky, but other than that it's sweet!


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## Tremendo (Jan 8, 2008)

Finally got mine today. Incredible 1xAA light. Simply amazing. I am only using an Energizer Lithium AA. It is brighter than my FF3, my Rex 2.0 (was my brightest AA light), my Jet-C LE (by far), and seems even in overall output with my P2D P100 (CR123) which was hand picked out of 12 to be the best and brightest beam. Also right there with my good U2.

The beam quality is absolutely fine, even for us wall white hunters. The color is a little blueish, I picked the P2D P100's that were less blueish. But it's still very white and great spill.

The finish is very nice. Feels great in the hand, evenrything works as it should. Maybe because of all the complaints, I was ready and the lettering doesn't bother me much. I do wish it could tail stand though.

I got in at $60 and am very happy with it. This is all with a single AA Lithium. Wow!


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## Lobo (Jan 9, 2008)

MetalZone said:


> Okay it's confirmed that the light won't light up when the battery is too low on non-Li-Ion's. EdgeTac told me this:
> 
> "When you use Li-ion battery, it will perform low-voltage alarming system when the voltage is low and for other batteries, it will not light up when the power is low."
> 
> I just wish it won't refuse to turn on with low battery power though (on Ni-MH, non-Li-Ion's). You just might really need it.



Very Interesting.

I ordered one for a friend and play around with it for a couple of days, but didn't notice what you described. It worked fine on lower levels after I used up must of the cell on high, allthough I did never measure the cells afterwards. My friend hasn't noticed anything either and he uses only primaries so he's prone to use up his batteries completely(but he hasnt measured his cells after use either, or I'm assuming, he's not that kind of guy...).

I'm wondering how the low-voltage system is supposed to work.
Shouldn't 14500 have way higher voltage when they are supposed to cutoff than regular AAs? So if the light is detecting that the voltage is around 3.7V(or whatever the voltage is when 14500 are out of juice) it cuts off. But if the voltage is a lot lower, like 1.5V (regular AAs) it doesnt cut in? So the low voltage shouldnt affect regular AAs that are almost depleted?

And does the low-voltage system turn of the light when the voltage is low or does it just now allow the light to be turned on when off if the voltage is to low? Cause if it is the earlier, it doesn't sound like your symptoms. 

Weird thing is that Edgetac confirms it. Has a lot of people had this problem or could anyone explain how the cutoff is supposed to work on two cells with that varying voltages?

But if the light is designed to not turn on regardless of cell, it reallys seems like a designflaw IMHO.

EDIT: How low was the voltage on the cell you couldnt get to light up again? Someone mentioned 1.2 V but isn't that around the point when NiMH should be recharged?


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## MetalZone (Jan 10, 2008)

@Lobo,
I believe the NCDI knows how to detect what kind of battery it is fed with. If you feed it with Li-Ion's, it will perform a low battery warning flash when the voltage is low. I don't have 14500's with me so I don't know first hand.

If you feed it with 1.2-1.5V batteries like NiMH's, NiCD's, Alkalines, Non-rechargeable Lithiums etc, it will not turn on when the voltage is too low. I believe low voltage here means pretty low as my light was already at like approx 30-40% brightness (just guessing as it was dim enough that I could look into the light with daytime adapted vision) at tactical mode before it refuses to turn on after turning off. If you do keep it on, I think the light will just continue to be lit till the battery is completely drained. This is why runtime tests were able to be performed coz you don't turn off the light. But once you turn it off, if the voltage is too low, it simply won't turn on even on the lowest brightness mode. But, after turning off the light for a while for the voltage to "recover" you can once again turn it on. And the cycle repeats, till the "recovered" voltage is too low to turn it on anymore. I don't know what's the voltage at which it refuses to turn on again but I'll measure it the next time it happens.

I'm not the only one that discovered the light won't turn on at low voltages. LightJaguar and matrixshaman also experienced the same thing.

I personally think that this is a design flaw. It should at least have some feature that switches the light to maybe 30% brightness or smtg instead of disabling it altogether when the voltage is low.

Oh well, perhaps it would at least prevent Lithium fireballs.


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## kilgor (Jan 10, 2008)

MetalZone said:


> @Lobo,
> I believe the NCDI knows how to detect what kind of battery it is fed with. If you feed it with Li-Ion's, it will perform a low battery warning flash when the voltage is low. I don't have 14500's with me so I don't know first hand.
> 
> If you feed it with 1.2-1.5V batteries like NiMH's, NiCD's, Alkalines, Non-rechargeable Lithiums etc, it will not turn on when the voltage is too low. I believe low voltage here means pretty low as my light was already at like approx 30-40% brightness (just guessing as it was dim enough that I could look into the light with daytime adapted vision) at tactical mode before it refuses to turn on after turning off. If you do keep it on, I think the light will just continue to be lit till the battery is completely drained. This is why runtime tests were able to be performed coz you don't turn off the light. But once you turn it off, if the voltage is too low, it simply won't turn on even on the lowest brightness mode. But, after turning off the light for a while for the voltage to "recover" you can once again turn it on. And the cycle repeats, till the "recovered" voltage is too low to turn it on anymore. I don't know what's the voltage at which it refuses to turn on again but I'll measure it the next time it happens.
> ...



The Olight T15 is the exact same way.


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## Lobo (Jan 10, 2008)

MetalZone said:


> @Lobo,
> I believe the NCDI knows how to detect what kind of battery it is fed with. If you feed it with Li-Ion's, it will perform a low battery warning flash when the voltage is low. I don't have 14500's with me so I don't know first hand.
> 
> If you feed it with 1.2-1.5V batteries like NiMH's, NiCD's, Alkalines, Non-rechargeable Lithiums etc, it will not turn on when the voltage is too low. I believe low voltage here means pretty low as my light was already at like approx 30-40% brightness (just guessing as it was dim enough that I could look into the light with daytime adapted vision) at tactical mode before it refuses to turn on after turning off. If you do keep it on, I think the light will just continue to be lit till the battery is completely drained. This is why runtime tests were able to be performed coz you don't turn off the light. But once you turn it off, if the voltage is too low, it simply won't turn on even on the lowest brightness mode. But, after turning off the light for a while for the voltage to "recover" you can once again turn it on. And the cycle repeats, till the "recovered" voltage is too low to turn it on anymore. I don't know what's the voltage at which it refuses to turn on again but I'll measure it the next time it happens.
> ...



Hm, I dont think it's necessarily the low voltage alert for 14500 that is the culprit here. It should only kick in for 14500 cells (I'm assuming since the voltage is so different from regular cells). There would be no point in having this alert for regular batteries also, since there is no chance of explosion. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

Reading your post I recalled that my my Fenix L1D CE behaved the same way first time I tested it. I usually don't totally empty out cells since I use NiMH(not good for the cells), but I tried some alkalines in my L1D CE today again, and it behaves the same way. When the cell is really low, and if you turn off the light, it wont come back on. I tried the same cell in a cheap single AA single mode light, and it lit up, allthough very weakly. But still enough light to navigate to. The voltage was around 1.05 when the L1D refused to lit up. I'm gonna try to measure the voltage when my friends Nitecore DI gives up.

Seems like this is a design flaw that is not just restricted to Nitecore DI. Looks like many multi lvl AA-lights has it. Which brings me to the question, are the Nitecore DI and Olight current regulated(Fenix L1D is)? Does this flaw exist in PWM-lights or is it a problem that only exists in current regulated lights?


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## selfbuilt (Jan 11, 2008)

Lobo said:


> Seems like this is a design flaw that is not just restricted to Nitecore DI. Looks like many multi lvl AA-lights has it. Which brings me to the question, are the Nitecore DI and Olight current regulated(Fenix L1D is)? Does this flaw exist in PWM-lights or is it a problem that only exists in current regulated lights?


According to EDGETAC, the NiteCore DI uses PWM >1 kHz (it must be at least that high, since I cannot detect it with my setup). The Olight and Fenix are both current controlled. 

In fact, the Olight circuit seems to be virtually identical to the Fenix. I've just updated my NiteCore DI review with runtime comparison to the Olight T15 Q5, and you'll see its characteristics mirror the Fenix L1D Q5.

NiteCore Defender Infinity: shipping vs pre-production (Olight T15 Q5 added)


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## kilgor (Jan 11, 2008)

Lobo said:


> Hm, I dont think it's necessarily the low voltage alert for 14500 that is the culprit here. It should only kick in for 14500 cells (I'm assuming since the voltage is so different from regular cells). There would be no point in having this alert for regular batteries also, since there is no chance of explosion. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> Reading your post I recalled that my my Fenix L1D CE behaved the same way first time I tested it. I usually don't totally empty out cells since I use NiMH(not good for the cells), but I tried some alkalines in my L1D CE today again, and it behaves the same way. When the cell is really low, and if you turn off the light, it wont come back on. I tried the same cell in a cheap single AA single mode light, and it lit up, allthough very weakly. But still enough light to navigate to. The voltage was around 1.05 when the L1D refused to lit up. I'm gonna try to measure the voltage when my friends Nitecore DI gives up.
> 
> Seems like this is a design flaw that is not just restricted to Nitecore DI. Looks like many multi lvl AA-lights has it. Which brings me to the question, are the Nitecore DI and Olight current regulated(Fenix L1D is)? Does this flaw exist in PWM-lights or is it a problem that only exists in current regulated lights?



My Nitecore will still come on weakly with a dead battery. There is just a 2-3 second delay between clicking the switch and the light coming on. Click the switch on and give it a few seconds.


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## AFAustin (Jan 12, 2008)

I continue to really like this light---for its terrific output, sleek and handsome looks, solid build quality, momentary switch, clever yet simple UI, etc., etc.

And yet I continue to be a bit stymied by its fussy UI. Most of the time it works properly---and I can always get to where I want to go by fooling with it a bit. But....the ideal state of affairs continues to elude me---works right, all the time, every time.

It is interesting to me how many different combinations of: this lubricant vs. that lubricant (vs. dry), placed here but not there; faster twist technique; smaller o rings; etc., have achieved the holy grail of consistent proper operation for different CPFers. But for some unlucky souls, nothing does the trick.

My latest attempt at UI nirvana is selfbuilt's dry-as-a-bone method (as to both tail and head threads), combined with a smaller o-ring at the head (thanks to extras supplied with my original Rexlight). My initial impression is that this is an improvement---both as to consistency of UI operation and ease of one-handed operation---but a good bit more usage will be required to know for sure. I'll report back later.


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## MetalZone (Jan 12, 2008)

Lobo said:


> Reading your post I recalled that my my Fenix L1D CE behaved the same way first time I tested it. I usually don't totally empty out cells since I use NiMH(not good for the cells), but I tried some alkalines in my L1D CE today again, and it behaves the same way. When the cell is really low, and if you turn off the light, it wont come back on. I tried the same cell in a cheap single AA single mode light, and it lit up, allthough very weakly. But still enough light to navigate to. The voltage was around 1.05 when the L1D refused to lit up. I'm gonna try to measure the voltage when my friends Nitecore DI gives up.
> 
> Seems like this is a design flaw that is not just restricted to Nitecore DI. Looks like many multi lvl AA-lights has it. Which brings me to the question, are the Nitecore DI and Olight current regulated(Fenix L1D is)? Does this flaw exist in PWM-lights or is it a problem that only exists in current regulated lights?



That's interesting. I haven't really drained cells in my Fenix L2D before so I haven't experienced it on my Fenix yet.

kilgor. You're right! I pulled out one of my dying sanyo 2500mah, and it does like you say. Not bad after all. At least I know I can still have a little light when I need it. After turning it on for a while, i promptly took it out and measured the voltage: 1.128V. and as usual, the voltage keeps climbing immediately after use. When turning on the light it it flashes bright for a just moment and immediately becomes dim.


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## Paul6ppca (Jan 12, 2008)

I feel the same 90% of the time its fine,I sanded o ring cleaned/deoxed it.But once in a while I get strange output or no output or jump into strobe mode etc. Maybe Nitcore will staighten it al to be perfect and ship new heads!

My litflux has never faked me out.A pain to program but rock solid once done ,super low,med and 2 twists to max burst.




AFAustin said:


> I continue to really like this light---for its terrific output, sleek and handsome looks, solid build quality, momentary switch, clever yet simple UI, etc., etc.
> 
> And yet I continue to be a bit stymied by its fussy UI. Most of the time it works properly---and I can always get to where I want to go by fooling with it a bit. But....the ideal state of affairs continues to elude me---works right, all the time, every time.
> 
> ...


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## PurpleDrazi (Jan 12, 2008)

Paul6ppca said:


> My litflux has never faked me out.



Do you by any chance have a LF5?

If so, how does it compare (max brightness) to the DI?

Francis


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## srvctec (Jan 12, 2008)

PurpleDrazi said:


> Do you by any chance have a LF5?
> 
> If so, how does it compare (max brightness) to the DI?
> 
> Francis



selfbuilt put all that info including beam shots in his review a couple of months ago. It's the pre-shipped version of DI, but as it turns out virtually identical in output to the shipped version. See here


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## selfbuilt (Jan 12, 2008)

srvctec said:


> selfbuilt put all that info including beam shots in his review a couple of months ago. It's the pre-shipped version of DI, but as it turns out virtually identical in output to the shipped version. See here


Thanks for the plug srvctec, but that thread has been replaced by a new one where I also compare the pre-production to current shipping version and the Olight T15 Q5. 

NiteCore Defender Infinity: shipping vs pre-production (Olight T15 Q5 added)


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## srvctec (Jan 13, 2008)

selfbuilt said:


> Thanks for the plug srvctec, but that thread has been replaced by a new one where I also compare the pre-production to current shipping version and the Olight T15 Q5.
> 
> NiteCore Defender Infinity: shipping vs pre-production (Olight T15 Q5 added)



I knew about that thread also, but was thinking it just compared NDI to NDI and no other lights.  Oh well, that's what I get for thinking.


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## Paul6ppca (Jan 16, 2008)

PurpleDrazi said:


> Do you by any chance have a LF5?
> 
> If so, how does it compare (max brightness) to the DI?
> 
> Francis


 
I have the LF3 CR123
I use RCR123.

Pics in the other post are acurate to what I see. Liteflux has a little less brightness and a smaller hotspot. Twisty vs Momentary. Both are nice,LF 3 is smaller and really 3 levels available. PIA tp program but once set to your likeing it just stays there.


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## Darell (Jan 18, 2008)

I've got to ask if anybody has attempted to have a warranty repair done on this light?

My quick story: I'm quite interested in new UI implementations, and so wanted to give the Infinity a try for the express purpose of checking out the interface. When the light arrived, I was pleasantly surprised at how it worked, the quality and the output. For an EDC, I really liked the UI. Set it once, and just use it. GREAT! Less than two days later, the UI would not function. I get high, and sometimes it'll strobe for no particular reason. I've done everything at my disposal to get it working right again, and nothing helps. I have tried to contact the various dealers that are to be offering local support, and have heard nothing back in the three weeks that I've been trying.

Where'd everybody go?


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## kilgor (Jan 18, 2008)

From Tadgear's website:




> *Due to the high volume of orders there are longer than usual delays in response times and in order fulfillment. We apologize for the delays, but please know we are working hard to bring on new staff and operational systems to improve customer service and processing times. TAD Gear will be launching a new website and ecommerce system in the first quarter of 2008 to improve our service to you. You have our many thanks and appreciation for your patience and long years of support. We are here to get you the best gear and doing everything we can to get you the best service. ~ TAD Gear Staff.*




Call them at 415-318-8252. I hope they take care of you. Keep us informed please.


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## srvctec (Jan 18, 2008)

kilgor said:


> From Tadgear's website:
> 
> 
> 
> Call them at [/color][/size]415-318-8252. I hope they take care of you. Keep us informed please.



Either that or PM/email Ms. Wong (EDGETAC). She's been super with getting back to me with my questions/problems. One of the best customer service responses I've seen on any light I've ever bought on CPF so far.


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## LightJaguar (Jan 18, 2008)

srvctec said:


> Either that or PM/email Ms. Wong (EDGETAC). She's been super with getting back to me with my questions/problems. One of the best customer service responses I've seen on any light I've ever bought on CPF so far.


 
Yea I contacted her and told her about my problem with the switch on my DI. She was very helpful and I will be getting a replacement part soon. 
I really like this light and even though the switch is stuck in the on position I'm still using it as my EDC. I'm currently using it as a twisty.


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## robo21 (Jan 18, 2008)

Darell said:


> I've got to ask if anybody has attempted to have a warranty repair done on this light?
> 
> My quick story: I'm quite interested in new UI implementations, and so wanted to give the Infinity a try for the express purpose of checking out the interface. When the light arrived, I was pleasantly surprised at how it worked, the quality and the output. For an EDC, I really liked the UI. Set it once, and just use it. GREAT! Less than two days later, the UI would not function. I get high, and sometimes it'll strobe for no particular reason. I've done everything at my disposal to get it working right again, and nothing helps. I have tried to contact the various dealers that are to be offering local support, and have heard nothing back in the three weeks that I've been trying.
> 
> Where'd everybody go?


 
"Everybody" didn't go away. Edgetac has been posting in follow up threads and has been easily reachable via PM's or emails for me and others. Perhaps you haven't tried contacting Ms Wong yet? 

I agree with srvctec, "One of the best customer service responses I've seen on any light I've ever bought on CPF so far."


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