# The Maratac AAA "Cu"



## fyrstormer (Jun 9, 2010)

A light like this needs no introduction. There are plenty of brass lights floating around, but I've never seen a copper light before, so I told County Comm to send me a couple, so I can decide if I like them or not. 

There's already a review on CPF, so instead of writing a new one, here's a link to the original: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/240639

Pics!


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## Black Rose (Jun 9, 2010)

Is it a copper body or simply copper coloured?

If it's copper, does it make your hands smell from holding it?


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## Snow (Jun 9, 2010)

I want one.


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## calipsoii (Jun 9, 2010)

Black Rose said:


> Is it a copper body or simply copper coloured?
> 
> If it's copper, does it make your hands smell from holding it?



I remember another CPF'er posting that yes, it does make your hands smell like copper. It'll tarnish as well, so get out your toothpaste and toothbrush once in a while and give it a good scrubbin'.


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## fyrstormer (Jun 9, 2010)

Black Rose said:


> Is it a copper body or simply copper coloured?
> 
> If it's copper, does it make your hands smell from holding it?


It's copper through and through; it weighs 2.5x as much as the aluminum version (all of an ounce, ye gods!). It only smells like pennies ever so slightly right now, because the finish is still freshly polished. I'm sure it will smell more like loose change once the surface layer degrades a bit.

- - -

Actually, I take it back, there ARE a couple of notable differences between this one and the original aluminum version:

1. the PWM is much higher-frequency;
2. the modes are Low/Medium/High instead of Medium/Low/High.

Other than that, it's the same.


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## fyrstormer (Jun 9, 2010)

calipsoii said:


> I remember another CPF'er posting that yes, it does make your hands smell like copper. It'll tarnish as well, so get out your toothpaste and toothbrush once in a while and give it a good scrubbin'.


For some reason I can't adequately explain, I don't mind tarnish on copper nearly as much as tarnish on brass. Something to do with the whitish film that forms on brass as it tarnishes, which copper doesn't do because it's not alloyed with any other metals.


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## Ragiska (Jun 9, 2010)

fyrstormer said:


> For some reason I can't adequately explain, I don't mind tarnish on copper nearly as much as tarnish on brass. Something to do with the whitish film that forms on brass as it tarnishes, which copper doesn't do because it's not alloyed with any other metals.



copper is almost never used pure, and is almost always alloyed with other metals.


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## fyrstormer (Jun 9, 2010)

Ragiska said:


> copper is almost never used pure, and is almost always alloyed with other metals.


Fine, then it's present in a large-enough percentage that the effect of the other metals on the nature of the oxide layer is insignificant compared to, for example, brass.


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## Ragiska (Jun 9, 2010)

alloys don't necessarily have even remotely similar properties of it's constituent metals. that's the whole point of alloys, they are completely DIFFERENT materials, with unique properties.

example: brass is mostly copper too


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## fyrstormer (Jun 10, 2010)

Of course they have similar properties. Atomic bonding and chemical reactivity are primarily governed by interactions in the outermost electron shell, hence why metals in the same column in the Periodic Table have similar chemical properties. In alloys, electrons are constantly bouncing around from one atom to the next, so the valence of each atom in the alloy is best described as a weighted average of the natural valences of the pure constituent metals.

Thanks for derailing the thread, btw. The tiny amounts of dopants that may or may not be present in the body of my Maratac AAA Cu are irrelevant to the original point of the thread and you know it.


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## Beacon of Light (Jun 10, 2010)

Ragista is good for derailing threads, this is true.


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## kaichu dento (Jun 10, 2010)

fyrstormer said:


> Of course they have similar properties. Atomic bonding and chemical reactivity are primarily governed by interactions in the outermost electron shell, hence why metals in the same column in the Periodic Table have similar chemical properties. In alloys, electrons are constantly bouncing around from one atom to the next, so the valence of each atom in the alloy is best described as a weighted average of the natural valences of the pure constituent metals.
> 
> Thanks for derailing the thread, btw. The tiny amounts of dopants that may or may not be present in the body of my Maratac AAA Cu are irrelevant to the original point of the thread and you know it.


I know this was a serious post but it made me laugh nonetheless. :twothumbs


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## waddup (Jun 10, 2010)

Snow said:


> I want one.



me too, i WILL have one.:twothumbs

i dont care about the exact chemistry of the atoms of the metal/s bonding properties. 


sure is purdy


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## paulr (Jun 10, 2010)

Nice pics, but how do you like using it? Does it feel weird in your hand?

If you've got $600, Photon Fanatic is making an AAA Killer in sterling silver...


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## Flying Turtle (Jun 10, 2010)

Thanks for the pics and info, fyrstormer. This is the first I've heard that the PWM frequency is higher in this light. 

A very needed improvement.

Geoff


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## recDNA (Jun 10, 2010)

Snow said:


> I want one.


 

$38? Doable. Anybody use a 10440 in one of these? Does it toast the LED? L-M-H is good with 10440 if it doesn't ruin the flashlight.


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## fyrstormer (Jun 11, 2010)

They recommend not using 10440s in it. Some have, supposedly with acceptable results, but considering the driver in this version is at least slightly different than in the original version, someone would need to test the new driver to make sure it isn't more susceptible to damage than the original one.

I like using it, and thus far the tarnish layer is just bright pink, not the dark matte coating brass develops. I like it.


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## recDNA (Jun 11, 2010)

Only one website carries Maratac now?


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## nbp (Jun 11, 2010)

To be honest I had no real desire at all to get any of the alu Maratac lights. I already have an LD01 in SS that I love and keeps on ticking for me. HOWEVER, there is something very cool about this all copper light and I really like the look of it. Plus I like a light with a little heft to it, makes it feel sturdier. I could be persuaded to get one of these I think. I'll be watching the MP for the first round of them to go up for sale after some decide they don't like them.


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## kaichu dento (Jun 11, 2010)

fyrstormer said:


> I like using it, and thus far the tarnish layer is just bright pink, not the dark matte coating brass develops. I like it.


Here's a pic showing patina changes over the years, which of course would be much different for an item getting handled as our lights will, but it would be nice to see you buy enough of them to let them age in different environments and preserve them over the centuries for the rest of us to enjoy!


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## recDNA (Jun 11, 2010)

To be honest I wish there were some sort of plasticky anti-oxidizing coating I could put on it to prevent tarnishing and reduce the smell.


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## purelite (Jun 11, 2010)

Copper is so beautiful!! Its such a shame it tarnishes so quickly. Although I do like the patina up to 1 yr!! I though these were clear coated? 

You could clear coat it yourself with something although I dont know how durable it would be . I havnt had much luck on steel parts like clips and such


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## fyrstormer (Jun 11, 2010)

recDNA said:


> Only one website carries Maratac now?


As far as I know, Maratac is a brand-name of County Comm. I bought a couple stainless steel skull beads from them too, with the Maratac name on them. So, if they own the brand and they have their own website, there isn't much reason for them to sell through other vendors unless nobody can find their website.


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## fyrstormer (Jun 11, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> Here's a pic showing patina changes over the years, which of course would be much different for an item getting handled as our lights will, but it would be nice to see you buy enough of them to let them age in different environments and preserve them over the centuries for the rest of us to enjoy!


They come in vacuum-sealed foil pouches. They'll be preserved for all eternity anyway. :thumbsup:


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## fyrstormer (Jun 11, 2010)

purelite said:


> Copper is so beautiful!! Its such a shame it tarnishes so quickly. Although I do like the patina up to 1 yr!! I though these were clear coated?
> 
> You could clear coat it yourself with something although I dont know how durable it would be . I havnt had much luck on steel parts like clips and such


Regular use will keep the tarnish layer thin without any special care. Just look at pennies; the only ones that do anything other than darken are the ones that get left in someone's junk drawer for a couple of decades.


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## recDNA (Jun 11, 2010)

I wonder if silver tarnish remover would work?


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## dafeichu (Jun 11, 2010)

That is one nice light. Like it a lot. Both my wife and I have the ITP A3 version and we're happy with them but the copper looks great.

When I moved into my house six years ago, the pipe for the faucet in the backyard was just regular copper pipe used for plumbing. I was going to remove it and put in steel pipe but instead I polished it up and sprayed it with a pcb clear protector. The pipe still looks great. I wonder if something like that could be done with this light or would it affect the heat dissipation.


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## easilyled (Jun 11, 2010)

I like the look of that. 

You said you had a couple, right fyrstormer?

So would you part with one of them?

If not where can a poor old UK CPFer acquire one of these?


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## JNewell (Jun 11, 2010)

What a unique light - thanks for posting this thread! I'd missed the review.

As far as this goes:


recDNA said:


> To be honest I wish there were some sort of plasticky anti-oxidizing coating I could put on it to prevent tarnishing and reduce the smell.


 
You can use spray laquers that are intended for things like keeping brass lamps from tarnishing, if that's a concern. Personally, I think the copper patina is cool. My grandparents had a copper (copper plated?) bullet flashlight when I was a young kid in the 1960s. This sort of brings back memories of that!


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## fyrstormer (Jun 11, 2010)

easilyled said:


> I like the look of that.
> 
> You said you had a couple, right fyrstormer?
> 
> ...


Not quite yet; one is still in the mail. Do they not ship to the UK? I would've thought NATO allies would be safe enough to trust with penlights.

I could be persuaded to part with one, if you can't order direct from them.


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## Patriot (Jun 12, 2010)

Good thread! 

There has been ongoing discussion about the CU in the Maratac AAA thread, Part 4.


The differences in PWM and UI sequence have been discussed there. 10440 use has been discussed and demonstrated there as well.


Here's a little video I made about the CU.


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## easilyled (Jun 12, 2010)

fyrstormer said:


> Not quite yet; one is still in the mail. Do they not ship to the UK? I would've thought NATO allies would be safe enough to trust with penlights.
> 
> I could be persuaded to part with one, if you can't order direct from them.



I tried to order one from Countycomm.com only for the website to say that "the recipient doesn't accept payment from non-US customers" once I tried to Checkout with Paypal. 

So I'd be very grateful if you could help me out.


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## recDNA (Jun 12, 2010)

What is the emitter now? Have they upgraded to R5 yet?


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## Black Rose (Jun 12, 2010)

fyrstormer said:


> Do they not ship to the UK?


They will ship anywhere in the world, as long as it's in the USA 

That's why there have been several Maratac group buys for us non-Americans.


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## fyrstormer (Jun 13, 2010)

Well, isn't that annoying. :ironic:


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## calipsoii (Jul 16, 2010)

Csshih is starting a group buy on Maratac items to be shipped internationally. If you're interested in one of these gorgeous little lights, now is a good time to get one.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=231877


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## JHCANDLEPOWER (Jul 25, 2010)

*Wear durability*

Hi,
I'm interested in the unique application of solid copper in this flashlight. For those who have used this regularly how are the threads holding up? While reviewing key chain style lights, I read several posts describing loose threading. Either poor machining or wear and tear. Since copper is considered a soft metal, has anyone noted an increase in tolerance (i.e. wobbling of the two parts)? 

Appreciate any input,
Cheers.

PS. Tried to post in the WTB forum but told I don't have rights. Is this due to lack of posts/history?


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## Paul6ppca (Jul 26, 2010)

*Re: Wear durability*



JHCANDLEPOWER said:


> Hi,
> I'm interested in the unique application of solid copper in this flashlight. For those who have used this regularly how are the threads holding up? While reviewing key chain style lights, I read several posts describing loose threading. Either poor machining or wear and tear. Since copper is considered a soft metal, has anyone noted an increase in tolerance (i.e. wobbling of the two parts)?
> 
> Appreciate any input,
> ...


 
Ive had mine for about a month and can compare to SS version, I have NOT noticed any sloppy threads,no poor machining,it is holding up very well,it does tarnish a bit,but polishes up like new in 2 min!


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## WadeF (Jul 26, 2010)

How do we order one? Didn't see a link for it on their site.


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## kaichu dento (Jul 26, 2010)

WadeF said:


> How do we order one? Didn't see a link for it on their site.


Here you go Wade!


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## WadeF (Jul 26, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> Here you go Wade!



Thanks Kaichu!


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## kaichu dento (Jul 26, 2010)

I need to post my order too!


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## Beacon of Light (Jul 26, 2010)

Let's hope this goes on sale for those that haven't ordered one yet.


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## AMD64Blondie (Jul 28, 2010)

I have to say.. that is one beautiful light. In copper,it stands out in a way the normal version wouldn't.


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## WadeF (Aug 3, 2010)

My Copper Maratac AAA came today!


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## Patriot (Aug 4, 2010)

It's a beauty Wade!


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## Buddy L (Aug 5, 2010)

My copper Maratac has not been handled enough yet to begin tarnishing. Can I maintain the bright finish with an automotive metal polish? What is recommended for polishing copper? BTW I had to return my first one due to a defective UI, has anyone else had similar problems with the UI?


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## spydie fanatic (Aug 5, 2010)

fyrstormer said:


> As far as I know, Maratac is a brand-name of County Comm. I bought a couple stainless steel skull beads from them too, with the Maratac name on them. So, if they own the brand and they have their own website, there isn't much reason for them to sell through other vendors unless nobody can find their website.




Maratac is actually formed from the words Marathon and Tactical...as what % countycomm holds in the business I have no idea, but I'm sure Marathon watch company from Canada is a partner in the venture.


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## Paul6ppca (Aug 5, 2010)

Mine has worked flawless for a few months now.The threads must be clean and dry.
Did you try any lube on the threads? if so it seems that it will not switch modes properly.



Buddy L said:


> My copper Maratac has not been handled enough yet to begin tarnishing. Can I maintain the bright finish with an automotive metal polish? What is recommended for polishing copper? BTW I had to return my first one due to a defective UI, has anyone else had similar problems with the UI?


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## Buddy L (Aug 5, 2010)

I always apply Nyogel #760G to my lights' threads & O-rings. I don't know if it is the best product out there, but it has worked pretty well for me. :wave:


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## calipsoii (Aug 5, 2010)

Buddy L said:


> My copper Maratac has not been handled enough yet to begin tarnishing. Can I maintain the bright finish with an automotive metal polish? What is recommended for polishing copper? BTW I had to return my first one due to a defective UI, has anyone else had similar problems with the UI?



Posted earlier in this thread with the same problem. Light skipped UI levels, jumped around and just generally behaved strangely. Regardless, I stuck in on my keychain. About 2 days later it started working perfectly, hitting every level, every time. 

When I swapped the battery for a new one, it started skipping levels again. I left it overnight and the next morning it switches fine. There's a suggestion further down to leave the threads bare and unlubed - I may give that a shot. I think the act of unscrewing the head is re-coating them and after a day or so the lube redistributes so it's metal-on-metal again.

Try leaving it for a bit, see if the same thing happens with yours.


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## Let It Bleed (Aug 5, 2010)

Mine was a little "jumpy" when I got it, but a little cleaning and it has been okay - "knock on wood."

I've let mine "age" and just like a penny it's darker and doesn't shine, which I personally prefer. Now when it starts to turn green, then I'll polish it! I don't know for sure if it will ever turn green, as it's not exposed to the elements, but rather get darker and darker. Time will tell.

The SC State House has a copper clad dome and it takes a long time for it to turn green. IIRC the dome was renovated in the mid 90's and it's not green yet. Hopefully it will never be allowed to become green again, but that's the way I remember it looking when I was a child. We iz po'er!


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## WadeF (Aug 5, 2010)

I need to pick up some more Bar Keeper's Friend. It works wonders on stainless steel (use it on my pots and pants) and it claims to work on copper. I'm going to try some on my CU Maratac with a tooth brush to get into the knurling.


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## Alaric Darconville (Aug 5, 2010)

Buddy L said:


> What is recommended for polishing copper?



Brasso or Nevr-Dull is good for me. I also use Brasso on my Marathon Navigator to take out light scratches on the crystal.


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## recDNA (Aug 5, 2010)

If the copper would stay shiny w/o maintenance I'd buy one.




WadeF said:


> My Copper Maratac AAA came today!


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## easilyled (Aug 5, 2010)

recDNA said:


> If the copper would stay shiny w/o maintenance I'd buy one.



If you kept it in a vacuum-sealed pack it would.


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## kaichu dento (Aug 5, 2010)

Let It Bleed said:


> I've let mine "age" and just like a penny it's darker and doesn't shine, which I personally prefer. Now when it starts to turn green, then I'll polish it! I don't know for sure if it will ever turn green, as it's not exposed to the elements, but rather get darker and darker. Time will tell.
> 
> The SC State House has a copper clad dome and it takes a long time for it to turn green. IIRC the dome was renovated in the mid 90's and it's not green yet. Hopefully it will never be allowed to become green again, but that's the way I remember it looking when I was a child. We iz po'er!


As long as you're using it, it'll only darken. Turning green would only happen if it weren't getting handled and the darkest it'll ever get is like an old penny still in circulation. 

I'm looking forward to mine!


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## ypsifly (Aug 5, 2010)

I too am seriously considering buying one.

I like the look of tarnished copper. If I bought one, I would like to accelerate the tarnishing process. That light would look very cool in a "Statue of Liberty" shade of green .


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## saabgoblin (Aug 10, 2010)

Really nice light so far, originally I had a little bit of a jumpy clutch when changing modes which wouldn't go into high on the first couple of tries but it now changes perfect every time. IMHO, the tarnish makes this light look even better because it visually softens the angles of the light especially where the tube diameter decreases. As for the key ring attachment, I was a little skeptical because the ring on the end wasn't properly seated in their two cutout setting grooves. With a little elbow grease and gentle coaxing, I have found that the key ring attachment seats *very* securely and the two small 90degree locking posts do not protrude far enough past their grooves to snag or catch on clothing, very nice.:thumbsup: I have yet to coax the secondary pocket clip onto the light but I am confident that this clip will fit just fine and it may even be reversible for clipping to the brim of a hat for use as a headlamp, time will tell later this evening.

The best thing about this light and clip design is that it is easy to key chain carry, has a removable clip and or clips to use or remove at will, and the light can tail stand as well. Overall, a very nice synthesis in design and while at first glance, I found the design to be a little awkward aesthetically, the benefits and engineering of this little light is really impressive, giving me an incredibly bright, flexible, and best of all, a copper flashlight.:twothumbs

So far the MaratacAAA has every flexible option that I have ever wanted in a key ring light.


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## fannin (Aug 11, 2010)

fyrstormer said:


> It's copper through and through; it weighs 2.5x as much as the aluminum version (all of an ounce, ye gods!). It only smells like pennies ever so slightly right now, because the finish is still freshly polished. I'm sure it will smell more like loose change once the surface layer degrades a bit.
> 
> - - -
> 
> ...


i like the mode sequence a lot but not enough to offset the weight


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## saabgoblin (Aug 11, 2010)

saabgoblin said:


> I have yet to coax the secondary pocket clip onto the light but I am confident that this clip will fit just fine and it may even be reversible for clipping to the brim of a hat for use as a headlamp, time will tell later this evening.


Well, as expected, the clip works bezel up or down and it allows the user to to clip their light to the brim of a for use as a headlamp. Great design with incredible flexibility!:thumbsup:


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## WadeF (Aug 11, 2010)

Barkeeper's Friend works great! It's a powder you can buy at Walmart and other stores. I just mixed some with some warm water and dropped in the Maratac. It came out looking much better. I went the extra mile and took a brush to the knurling, rubbed it with my fingers, etc, then rinsed it off in a bowl of clean water. 

You may not want to hold it under running water as depending on the stream, it could potentially get into the light. 

My Maratac Cu may now be shinier than when it was new out of the package. Less copper smell on my fingers too!


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## Paul6ppca (Aug 12, 2010)

I am going to try this tonight.Thanks for the tip!




WadeF said:


> Barkeeper's Friend works great! It's a powder you can buy at Walmart and other stores. I just mixed some with some warm water and dropped in the Maratac. It came out looking much better. I went the extra mile and took a brush to the knurling, rubbed it with my fingers, etc, then rinsed it off in a bowl of clean water.
> 
> You may not want to hold it under running water as depending on the stream, it could potentially get into the light.
> 
> My Maratac Cu may now be shinier than when it was new out of the package. Less copper smell on my fingers too!


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## Toohotruk (Aug 12, 2010)

Mine showed up today! 

I'm a big fan of copper (and brass), in fact, I've worn a copper bracelet for more than a decade, and I haven't taken it off for about five years. I just was the green off my wrist every day. I love the way it looks tarnished, so I'm letting my Maratac tarnish naturally.


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## WadeF (Aug 14, 2010)

Well, it didn't take long, but my copper Maratac is MIA. I had it in my cargo shorts pocket, maybe not the most secure place. I know I had it last night, let my kid use it at bed time, but pretty sure I returned it to my pocket after that. It could be at my inlaws in their yard as I was down there today running around with the kids. Maybe I'll run down tomorrow to take a look around.


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## Flying Turtle (Aug 14, 2010)

Hope you find it. That day in the yard will help it get that nice patina.

Geoff


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## MojaveMoon07 (Aug 15, 2010)

WadeF said:


> Well, it didn't take long, but my copper Maratac is MIA. I had it in my cargo shorts pocket, maybe not the most secure place. I know I had it last night, let my kid use it at bed time, but pretty sure I returned it to my pocket after that. It could be at my inlaws in their yard as I was down there today running around with the kids. Maybe I'll run down tomorrow to take a look around.




When I bought my Fenix L0D, I was concerned about
- protecting the body and the lens from being scratched by other things in my pocket
- making it harder either to accidentally lose it or for the flashlight to accidentally fall out of my pocket

I keep it inside this pouch -- _(link)_. The model is called "_Marsupial Keychain Wallet_". The brand name was originally "_Chisco_" and is now "_Chums_". The pouch has a zippered compartment in which I keep the L0D and a Fenix E01; there's also still room for one or two spare batteries. The pouch is light enough that I either don't know or barely know that the pouch is in my pocket; but more important than that is that I'm hoping it'll be easier to spot a pouch that got dropped out of my pocket than a tiny flashlight that got dropped out of my pocket.

I bought the pouch at REI, and I think that Sports Authority carries it; I mention this in case anyone would like to check out the pouch in person.


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## recDNA (Aug 15, 2010)

Anybody using a 10440? Are you losing the low modes?


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## WadeF (Aug 15, 2010)

Update! My Maratac AAA is no longer MIA, but for now a POW at my inlaws.  They found it in their driveway, which is where I thought it could be since I was racing my son there. I'll have to remember not to "run" when I have a flashlight in my pocket like that. Hopefully they didn't run it over a few times with their car. I guess I'll see what kind of condition it is in when I get it back.


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## Burgess (Aug 15, 2010)

That's good news !


_


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## Beacon of Light (Aug 16, 2010)

Maybe let them enjoy it and we will have a few more flashaholics... your inlaws that is.


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## Icanman (Aug 16, 2010)

Wow a copper flashlight that's amazing!

I really don't like aluminum lights, it's cool that some manufacturers are doing different things like using copper, titanium, steel, etc 

Really want one of these... just for the curiosity value...


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## DaveTheDude (Aug 16, 2010)

recDNA said:


> $38? Doable. Anybody use a 10440 in one of these? Does it toast the LED? L-M-H is good with 10440 if it doesn't ruin the flashlight.


 
I've used a 3.6v li-ion cell (protected) in the Maratac AA (aluminum version) for over a year without any problems, and without any noticeable change in the tint. At low and medium levels, there is a noticeable increase in light output compared with 1.5v cells, but since the low and medium levels are still well below the maximum current draw for alkaline cells, the light happily purrs along, untroubled. I don't recommend using a 3.6v cell at the light's high setting for extended periods (unless you don't mind a brown tint to your emitter, and noticeably yellowing light :devil: ), but I've gone five minutes or so on high without problems.


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## recDNA (Aug 16, 2010)

DaveTheDude said:


> I've used a 3.6v li-ion cell (protected) in the Maratac AA (aluminum version) for over a year without any problems, and without any noticeable change in the tint. At low and medium levels, there is a noticeable increase in light output compared with 1.5v cells, but since the low and medium levels are still well below the maximum current draw for alkaline cells, the light happily purrs along, untroubled. I don't recommend using a 3.6v cell at the light's high setting for extended periods (unless you don't mind a brown tint to your emitter, and noticeably yellowing light :devil: ), but I've gone five minutes or so on high without problems.


 
Heck, I'm surprised runtime is much more than 5 minutes on high with 10440. I'd only use it for a couple of minutes at a time to frighten people. LOL People don't expect 200 lumens from a light that size. Too bad there is no way to make a protected 10440.


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## recDNA (Aug 16, 2010)

Icanman said:


> Wow a copper flashlight that's amazing!
> 
> I really don't like aluminum lights, it's cool that some manufacturers are doing different things like using copper, titanium, steel, etc
> 
> Really want one of these... just for the curiosity value...


 
Gold would be nice!


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## Hellbore (Aug 21, 2010)

DaveTheDude said:


> I've used a 3.6v li-ion cell (protected) in the Maratac AA (aluminum version) for over a year without any problems, and without any noticeable change in the tint. At low and medium levels, there is a noticeable increase in light output compared with 1.5v cells, but since the low and medium levels are still well below the maximum current draw for alkaline cells, the light happily purrs along, untroubled. I don't recommend using a 3.6v cell at the light's high setting for extended periods (unless you don't mind a brown tint to your emitter, and noticeably yellowing light :devil: ), but I've gone five minutes or so on high without problems.



I use 3.6v lithium-ion 14500's exclusively in my Quark Mini Titanium AA, and since the lights appear to use the same circuit, I think the Maratac should be fine too.

I don't know how but somehow these 2 lights are connected.. they are nearly identical designs and they even both have that black piece that centers the emitter in the reflector, exactly the same on both lights. The bottom side of the board where the battery touches looks identical too, the spring looks the same, etc. etc.


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## recDNA (Aug 21, 2010)

I wish there were a copper or brass AA or CR123a version. I don't like using unprotected lithium ion batteries.


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## mhphoto (Jun 2, 2011)

Got mine today!

Unwrapping:












This thing is so freaking beautiful. The pictures really don't do it justice.











And yeah, this thing is solid copper:











XP-E (notice the plastic aligning things on all four sides. Looks like a 4Sevens):














































It was a lot smaller than I had expected, even with it being a AAA light. 
















It's gorgeously machined. I can't wait for the patina to start in. My only gripe is that the threads were dirty when I got it and it was mode skipping worse than any light I've ever had. But after I deep cleaned them and re-lubed them it was working a whole lot better, though it still skips every once in a while. I have a feeling that with use they will smooth out. 

Output is great. The low is low and the high is very respectably bright. 

Overall I'd say it was definitely worth the money.


----------



## StandardBattery (Jun 2, 2011)

I have a couple of these around just because I love the copper color. I only remember a few custom LF2-XT bodies in copper and a couple custom lights. We should have more copper. A copper preon revo with M-L-H and a decent LED would be a lovely light.


----------



## AlphaZen (Jul 14, 2011)

StandardBattery said:


> We should have more copper. A copper preon revo with M-L-H and a decent LED would be a lovely light.


Strong agree on all accounts.

Also, absolutely beautiful photos, mhphoto!


----------



## Streamer (Aug 2, 2011)

Hi all. Cool lot of copper torches. The info at County Comm states clip not installed at factory to preserve finish. That said, is there a clip included in shipment?


----------



## stoli67 (Aug 2, 2011)

Can u still buy these?

If so then where?


----------



## leon2245 (Aug 2, 2011)

fyrstormer said:


> It's copper through and through; it weighs 2.5x as much as the aluminum version (all of an ounce, ye gods!). It only smells like pennies ever so slightly right now, because the finish is still freshly polished. I'm sure it will smell more like loose change once the surface layer degrades a bit.
> 
> - - -
> 
> ...




:rock:

This one isn't tighten-for-off by chance is it?


----------



## geckoblink (Aug 2, 2011)

OT:

Did anyone else look at this picture and think "Is that some kind of green FRN handle on a knife?"




mhphoto said:


>


----------



## john-paul (Aug 2, 2011)

Streamer said:


> Hi all. Cool lot of copper torches. The info at County Comm states clip not installed at factory to preserve finish. That said, is there a clip included in shipment?


 
Yes simply snap it on, does leave a couple of small scratches.




stoli67 said:


> Can u still buy these?
> 
> If so then where?


 
http://www.countycomm.com/aaacopper.html


----------



## Sparky's Magic (Aug 2, 2011)

This is a great little 'light!

If you must polish your Cu. 'Simichrome' will keep it bright and shiny or a less expensive option, 'Toothpaste'; simply apply the toothpaste to the thumb and forefinger and roll - But Why? 

A more attractive finish can be achieved by simply putting it in your pocket and using it: A pocket without keys, knives (various), coins etc. is best as the 'light will darken beautifully without getting dented, or scratched up etc. :thumbsup:


----------



## leon2245 (Aug 5, 2011)

leon2245 said:


> fyrstormer said:
> 
> 
> > 1. the PWM is much higher-frequency;
> ...


 

Or aint it?


----------



## Toohotruk (Aug 5, 2011)

When it's tightened, it's on.


----------



## Beacon of Light (Aug 6, 2011)

Love mine. I got a nice patina going on it and I keep it from getting dinged with coin or keys also. I try to consciously avoid that with any light I own though. I even tried a piece of the QTC material and it sort of worked but it mode skipped most of the time. It did however have a nice low low when it did work.


----------



## weklund (Jan 12, 2012)

*
I would like to see one of these in brass. Very nice little lights. Satin SS version is on the way.









*​


----------



## mhphoto (Jan 12, 2012)

weklund said:


> *
> I would like to see one of these in brass. Very nice little lights. Satin SS version is on the way.
> 
> *​



If you could get the pill and lens out, you could coat the copper in zinc and then heat it to force the zinc and copper into a layer of brass. It would be the same procedure that science teachers use to turn pennies into "silver" (coated with zinc) and then turning them to "gold" (brass).


----------



## Toohotruk (Jan 12, 2012)

Cool video! oo:


----------



## Patriot (Jan 12, 2012)

Mine is still going strong and has a light patina going on. I kinda like the character of the aged copper overall, although I really do like to see the gleaming pictures of lights that are fresh out of the foil.


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Jan 12, 2012)

recDNA said:


> To be honest I wish there were some sort of plasticky anti-oxidizing coating I could put on it to prevent tarnishing and reduce the smell.



Renaissance wax ...once on, almost impossible to get off. seals out oxygen and contaminants. good stuff. will keep copper pink luster for loooong time


----------



## Burgess (Jan 12, 2012)

to mhphoto --


VERY cool video !

Thank you for sharing that.

:thumbsup:


----------



## microtech d/e (Jan 29, 2012)

County comm just discontuned them. Dose anyone know where I could find one?


----------



## Gregozedobe (Jan 29, 2012)

microtech d/e said:


> County comm just discontuned them. Dose anyone know where I could find one?



You could try a WTB ad over at the CPF Marketplace (it is a completely separate forum, so you'll need to register and make some posts before you can start a new thread -don't bother asking why, just do it).


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Feb 25, 2012)

Let's bump this up and see some tarnish! 

Here's mine.


----------



## kaichu dento (Feb 25, 2012)

Nice! :thumbsup:


----------



## Patriot (Feb 26, 2012)

Great picture PSM. Love the copper!


----------



## mhphoto (Feb 27, 2012)

I've been carrying my Mini AA for the past few months, so the copper AA has been on a shelf since. Odd thing is, before I left it be, I polished it throughly, and it hasn't tarnished all that much. I try to keep myself from touching and ogling at it too much, but sometimes the temptation is hard. _It's so darn pretty_…


----------



## fyrstormer (Feb 27, 2012)

I think copper patinas (is that a verb?) better than brass; the zinc content in brass makes the oxide layer hazy in appearance. As a purely functional metal it's stronger and somewhat lighter, but I prefer the appearance of aged copper if I have to choose between the two.


----------



## mhphoto (Feb 28, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> I think copper patinas (is that a verb?) better than brass; the zinc content in brass makes the oxide layer hazy in appearance. As a purely functional metal it's stronger and somewhat lighter, but I prefer the appearance of aged copper if I have to choose between the two.



+1

I'm a huge all-around fan of copper and its alloys. I'd have to say that, of the big three, brass is my least favorite. Aside from copper, bronze is one handsome metal, and the history behind the alloy only adds to its allure for me. Copper would still top my list, though.


----------



## fyrstormer (Feb 28, 2012)

I'm not sure I've ever seen aged bronze and recognized it as distinct from brass. Pics?


----------



## mhphoto (Feb 28, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> I'm not sure I've ever seen aged bronze and recognized it as distinct from brass. Pics?



IIRC (from the depths of my fuzzy mind), bronze seems to patina more consistently than brass (disregarding enameled brass). It also seems deeper, but it's a deeper looking metal anyway, so I doubt the patina is any darker. I mean, give anything with a fair amount of copper long enough and it'll turn to verdigris.


----------



## mhphoto (Feb 28, 2012)

For those who are curious about forced patinas, this site has a ton of "recipes". 

http://www.sciencecompany.com/patinas/patinaformulas.htm


----------



## kaichu dento (Feb 28, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> I think copper patinas (is that a verb?) better than brass; the zinc content in brass makes the oxide layer hazy in appearance. As a purely functional metal it's stronger and somewhat lighter, but I prefer the appearance of aged copper if I have to choose between the two.


I love the look of brass on some items, but definitely copper or bronze for me when it comes to appearance.


mhphoto said:


> +1
> 
> I'm a huge all-around fan of copper and its alloys. I'd have to say that, of the big three, brass is my least favorite. Aside from copper, bronze is one handsome metal, and the history behind the alloy only adds to its allure for me. Copper would still top my list, though.


Copper has such a great beauty to it and I love it, but bronze in it's many useful forms has me from so many perspectives. Swords, cymbals, raw castings and an Ion!


fyrstormer said:


> I'm not sure I've ever seen aged bronze and recognized it as distinct from brass. Pics?


If any of your friends have drums sets with some older cymbals you can see aged bronze and how deep the patina goes. 

Zildjian, Paiste and Sabian are only three of the leading brands but definitely the oldest ones that have been handled a lot will present the best examples.


----------



## SAKplumber (Apr 4, 2012)

Okay, I thought hey were too pretty before but now that I've seen that they age so well I WANT ONE! Maybe we'll get lucky and they'll come back with some more at CC.


----------



## campingnut (May 21, 2012)

I know that I can post in the Marketplace, but does anyone know of a retailer that currently has these in stock. I would love to buy one or two more of these little beauties. I have mine on a keyring that I EDC. What a great light :candle:


----------



## tobrien (May 22, 2012)

campingnut said:


> I know that I can post in the Marketplace, but does anyone know of a retailer that currently has these in stock. I would love to buy one or two more of these little beauties. I have mine on a keyring that I EDC. What a great light :candle:



i don't think anyone has these in stock. post a WTB thread in the marketplace and you may get a bite


----------



## 97catintenn (May 22, 2012)

That's a sweet light. It looks to be very collectible. Wish I had one!


----------



## TheCleanerSD (Aug 10, 2012)

FYI, the new version of these with the rev.2 driver are now in stock at County Comm


----------



## Toohotruk (Aug 10, 2012)

I had to order one...


----------



## calipsoii (Aug 10, 2012)

TheCleanerSD said:


> FYI, the new version of these with the rev.2 driver are now in stock at County Comm



I really wish CountyComm would ship internationally. Maybe someone in the US will start a group buy or something.


----------



## benzz (Aug 10, 2012)

Woo hoo! I've been wanting one of these to go with my copper tri edc for a while. Can't wait till payday!


----------



## msim (Aug 10, 2012)

The UI is reversed from the non copper version - now it's low-high and the low is lower too.


----------



## UpstandingCitizen (Aug 10, 2012)

calipsoii said:


> I really wish CountyComm would ship internationally. Maybe someone in the US will start a group buy or something.



Miles at "endtimesreport" ships internationally and should have them pretty soon.


----------



## tobrien (Aug 10, 2012)

msim said:


> The UI is reversed from the non copper version - now it's low-high and the low is lower too.



some people do prefer that. it's a hassle, I agree, but the low-high will keep from blinding you at night like high-low :/


----------



## Rees (Aug 11, 2012)

just ordered 2!


----------



## tobrien (Aug 11, 2012)

Rees said:


> just ordered 2!



good man. i ordered one so far, but i need another i'm betting. i want one to keep polished well and one to tarnish for looks


----------



## UpstandingCitizen (Aug 11, 2012)

Can anyone who bought the first Maratac Cu comment on the smoothness of the threads? Does the copper gall in a way that is similar to titanium threads?


----------



## kaichu dento (Aug 11, 2012)

They're reasonably smooth, but the nature of copper is such that galling is not the problem it is with titanium, and if you have any roughness, will smooth out much more easily.


----------



## shado (Aug 11, 2012)

UpstandingCitizen said:


> Miles at "endtimesreport" ships internationally and should have them pretty soon.



Just ordered one, Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## gunga (Aug 11, 2012)

Too bad the new ones only have 2 modes. They are also very hard to open without messing up the board. NIce Signature pic Shado!

Love the composition!


----------



## tobrien (Aug 11, 2012)

gunga said:


> Too bad the new ones only have 2 modes. They are also very hard to open without messing up the board. NIce Signature pic Shado!
> 
> Love the composition!



what'd the old ones have? three modes?


----------



## gunga (Aug 11, 2012)

Yep, something like 2, 25, 90 lumens or so...


----------



## tobrien (Aug 11, 2012)

gunga said:


> Yep, something like 2, 25, 90 lumens or so...



ah gotcha. I will say I do prefer two modes _for twistys_. if it's a _clicky_ i can deal with more than two modes lol


----------



## visigoth (Aug 13, 2012)

Any word on the beam quality? The other Rev 2 Maratacs got mixed/bad reviews, but this seems to have an OP reflector, which may change things. (I believe the others are smooth?)


----------



## msim (Aug 13, 2012)

visigoth said:


> Any word on the beam quality? The other Rev 2 Maratacs got mixed/bad reviews, but this seems to have an OP reflector, which may change things. (I believe the others are smooth?)




My Black Maratac AAA Rev2 does indeed have a smooth reflector.


----------



## tobrien (Aug 18, 2012)

mine comes tomorrow


----------



## tobrien (Aug 21, 2012)

so can these be swapped to a Nichia 219 or XP-G2?

or would it be better to just install a NW XP-E in place of the CW XP-E?


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Aug 21, 2012)

Ohhhhhh yeah, no chemicals, just my hands from EDC! :rock:


----------



## dolphincry (Aug 21, 2012)

UpstandingCitizen said:


> Miles at "endtimesreport" ships internationally and should have them pretty soon.



Just ordered from Miles....this will complement my Mac Copper Tri EDC


----------



## visigoth (Sep 15, 2012)

Help! Got my Maratac AAA Rev 2 Copper from Miles. Gorgeous. It worked perhaps six times, and now it won't turn on. I did the recommended thing: searching for copper flakes, chasing the threads with a toothpick, etc. Nada. 

Advice? I'd rather not send it back if I can figure this out myself.


----------



## leon2245 (Sep 16, 2012)

> The New Orange Peel Reflector is aluminum alloy.






> Length: 2.6" ( Smaller than Rev 1 )


----------



## eh123456 (Sep 16, 2012)

Just want to confirm about the UI before I place an order, is it high-->low or low-->high ?
Thanks very much.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Sep 16, 2012)

Low/high


----------



## eh123456 (Sep 16, 2012)

One more question about the Rev 2 Cu : Is it cool, neutral, or warm ?


----------



## visigoth (Sep 16, 2012)

*HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

Nobody have any idea how I can get this to turn on?


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Sep 16, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



visigoth said:


> Nobody have any idea how I can get this to turn on?



I hate to state the obvious, have you tried different batts?


----------



## visigoth (Sep 16, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

Yes -- and tested the batteries in other lights. When it arrived, the head was tightened down pretty hard -- would that have been sufficient to damage things? (I was under the impression that twisties are not supposed to be overtightened.)


----------



## Toohotruk (Sep 16, 2012)

How do the contacts in the head look? Are they damaged?


----------



## 97catintenn (Sep 16, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



PoliceScannerMan said:


> I hate to state the obvious, have you tried different batts?



I would start with a freshly charged battery too!

Also, according to the instructions, if light fails to turn on, any oil on the threads must be removed.


----------



## visigoth (Sep 16, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

Tried all this. Freshly charged, clean threads. The contacts in the head look pristine. It seems to me that it may be a blown emitter. Is that possible? That it would turn on a few times, then the emitter would fry? (I was using a standard Duracell rechargeable AAA -- NiMH.)


----------



## leon2245 (Sep 16, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

SEND IT IN!!

:rock:


----------



## 97catintenn (Oct 9, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

Hey, did you figure it out?? what did you end up doing?


----------



## visigoth (Oct 9, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



97catintenn said:


> Hey, did you figure it out?? what did you end up doing?



I sent it back. I was going to wait until the replacement arrived before posting, but I'm sure it will be fine. Miles Stair has been a real pleasure to deal with, by the way: he immediately offered to replace it. My sense is I just got a bum unit. Hey, it happens.

A question to all of you, though: is it even possible that over-tightening a twisty like this could do damage? To the circuit board, say?


----------



## bob4apple (Oct 9, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

I wonder if this gem of a light would be able to handle the heat produced by a 10440 battery.
Being made of all copper, it would have an advantage, but the big question is, would it 
be enough to keep the LED and driver from going up in smoke?

I know lots of us have tried them for short bursts in the aluminum and stainless versions,
but does anyone use a lithium ion battery in the copper version exclusively?


----------



## tobrien (Oct 10, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



bob4apple said:


> I wonder if this gem of a light would be able to handle the heat produced by a 10440 battery.
> Being made of all copper, it would have an advantage, but the big question is, would it
> be enough to keep the LED and driver from going up in smoke?
> 
> ...



in all honesty I think it works perfect with a regular primary, just needs better tint, but i'm not against _someone else_ trying a 10440 haha


----------



## AlphaZen (Oct 10, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

I run a 10440 in mine, but never for extended periods, and I keep the battery topped up since there is no voltage cutoff. Works great and probably puts out 300 lumens on high.


----------



## bob4apple (Oct 10, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

Thanks for your answers, guys. I know it works great on alkaline and NIMH.
I was hoping that some brave souls risked using lions on high for extended periods and got away with it.
Realistically, it would be too costly to replace if the experiment failed.


----------



## jorn (Oct 10, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

Try a shorter battery if it wont turn on. Had some issues with Energeizer ultimate lithiums. They are a tad too long the times the outer end of the spring coils on top of itself. At fist the light worked, then it dident, then i worked again and so on. When the outer end of the spring coils on top of itself (when fully compressed), the spring is suddenly twice as thick. The maratac is tiny, and has a short tube. The tube won't make contact with the outer ring on the driverboard if this happens (if you are using a long batt). I ended up crushing the battery instead of turning the light on. See if you can press the +nipple on the batt a mm or so deeper than the shoulder of the tube.


----------



## visigoth (Oct 12, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

UPDATE: The replacement arrived today. Lovely. Works perfectly. The threads are smooth, emitter centered, all good. And Miles threw in a free Pico Widgy Bar to make up for my troubles. (Kind of a great keychain tool: miniature pry bar.) All in all, The Survival Shop is highly recommended.

It would still be nice to know whether I have to worry about over-tightening -- can anyone tell me whether that will damage the circuit?


----------



## calipsoii (Oct 12, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



visigoth said:


> It would still be nice to know whether I have to worry about over-tightening -- can anyone tell me whether that will damage the circuit?



I wouldn't sweat it too much, this light is no more likely to be damaged by over-tightening than a 4sevens or Nitecore or any other brand. The electronics aren't free-floating in the head, they're encased in a brass can that is threaded in until it sits against the reflector.


----------



## visigoth (Oct 13, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

Okay, perhaps I'm just having bad luck with this flashlight, or perhaps this is normal behavior. When I turn the light on, after turning it off for a minute or two, it pre-flashes (high) before coming on low. Then it works properly: L/H/L with no flashes. If I turn it off for ten minutes or so, I get no pre-flash.

Does anyone else see this behavior? Any fix for it?

(I'm not sure it was doing it when I first got it -- it seems as if it may have just started today. I've tried it with a few batteries.)


----------



## Tete (Oct 14, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



visigoth said:


> Okay, perhaps I'm just having bad luck with this flashlight, or perhaps this is normal behavior. When I turn the light on, after turning it off for a minute or two, it pre-flashes (high) before coming on low. Then it works properly: L/H/L with no flashes. If I turn it off for ten minutes or so, I get no pre-flash.
> 
> Does anyone else see this behavior? Any fix for it?
> 
> (I'm not sure it was doing it when I first got it -- it seems as if it may have just started today. I've tried it with a few batteries.)



Yes!
I seem to have the same problem, too! I have a Philips lithium battery in it and I haven't tried it with other batteries.. I have cleaned the threads but it doesn't seem to help...:sigh:
I thought about returning it, but decided not to, it would just be too much hassle. After all it's not really a light I use all the time, mainly just bought it for the copper...


----------



## visigoth (Oct 14, 2012)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



Tete said:


> Yes!
> I seem to have the same problem, too! I have a Philips lithium battery in it and I haven't tried it with other batteries.. I have cleaned the threads but it doesn't seem to help...:sigh:
> I thought about returning it, but decided not to, it would just be too much hassle. After all it's not really a light I use all the time, mainly just bought it for the copper...




Is yours precisely the same issue: a pre-flash only if the light's been turned off for a minute or two?

That makes it less of an issue -- generally, when you want a light to turn on low, it's been off for at least a few minutes. But I must confess, this pre-flash is BRIGHT. It's enough to signal with.


----------



## StudFreeman (Nov 18, 2012)

*Head/pill disassembly*

Has anybody disassembled the Rev.2 Cu's head? Normally I'd try this myself but I like the light a lot and would rather not ruin it doing something stupid if someone else has been there and done that. However the tint is not my favorite, a special light like this one should have an emitter with perfect tint (e.g. XP-G2 3D or Nichia 219 Hi-CRI!)


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Nov 18, 2012)

*Re: Head/pill disassembly*



StudFreeman said:


> Has anybody disassembled the Rev.2 Cu's head? Normally I'd try this myself but I like the light a lot and would rather not ruin it doing something stupid if someone else has been there and done that. However the tint is not my favorite, a special light like this one should have an emitter with perfect tint (e.g. XP-G2 3D or Nichia 219 Hi-CRI!)



Vin has, so has Moddo.


----------



## tobrien (Nov 18, 2012)

*Re: Head/pill disassembly*



StudFreeman said:


> Has anybody disassembled the Rev.2 Cu's head? Normally I'd try this myself but I like the light a lot and would rather not ruin it doing something stupid if someone else has been there and done that. However the tint is not my favorite, a special light like this one should have an emitter with perfect tint (e.g. XP-G2 3D or Nichia 219 Hi-CRI!)



Hit up datiled. I'm gonna have him mod mine to a 219


----------



## jorn (Nov 18, 2012)

*Re: Head/pill disassembly*

I have a xp-g2 in mine. There is no threadlock holding the pill in the head, so modding it is really easy. Unscrew the pill, remove the led, add a dot of thermal paste, solder the new led in. Should take no more than some few minutes.


----------



## StudFreeman (Nov 20, 2012)

*Re: Head/pill disassembly*

Thanks for the replies, guys. That was fast!

Nice mod work, jorn.


----------



## tobrien (Nov 30, 2012)

*Re: Head/pill disassembly*

http://countycomm.com/aacu.html

AA version out now. thoughts?


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Dec 1, 2012)

*Re: Head/pill disassembly*

I bet its heavy! Nice light though.


----------



## jorn (Dec 1, 2012)

*Re: Head/pill disassembly*

I want one


----------



## S1LVA (Jan 12, 2013)

*Re: Head/pill disassembly*

Bump.

There is a CR123 XM-L version now....

S1LVA


----------



## tobrien (Jan 12, 2013)

*Re: Head/pill disassembly*



S1LVA said:


> Bump.
> 
> There is a CR123 XM-L version now....
> 
> S1LVA


holy cow, nice find man!

edit; would a GDuP driver fit in that Cu CR123? That new CR123A Copper Maratac could have some *serious* potential


----------



## StandardBattery (Jan 12, 2013)

*Re: Head/pill disassembly*



S1LVA said:


> Bump.
> 
> There is a CR123 XM-L version now....
> 
> S1LVA


Nice.... but every time I visit their website it costs me a lot of money.... and this time was no exception.


----------



## Toohotruk (Jan 12, 2013)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

DAMN! This is extremely difficult to resist!!! :shakehead

I'll wait until the next time I get drunk...that way I'll have a good excuse for caving in and buying one.


----------



## ZRXBILL (Jan 12, 2013)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



Toohotruk said:


> DAMN! This is extremely difficult to resist!!! :shakehead
> 
> I'll wait until the next time I get drunk...that way I'll have a good excuse for caving in and buying one.




So you'll be ordering later tonight?:laughing:
I would if it took RCR123 rechargables.


----------



## Esko (Jan 12, 2013)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



Toohotruk said:


> I'll wait until the next time I get drunk...that way I'll have a good excuse for caving in and buying one.



And now you have a good excuse for getting drunk, too. You can buy a light. Well played, dude! :thumbsup:


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Jan 12, 2013)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



ZRXBILL said:


> So you'll be ordering later tonight?:laughing:
> I would if it took RCR123 rechargables.



I run nothing but 3.7 Li Ions on my AAA Copper, just dont be foolish with heat.


----------



## jorn (Jan 13, 2013)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



PoliceScannerMan said:


> I run nothing but 3.7 Li Ions on my AAA Copper, just dont be foolish with heat.


Same. Use regular and imr 10440's.

Love the current controlled rev 2 aaa.
Dident like the new copper aa. pwm ruined it. It ended up as a gift some weeks ago.
Love the looks of the cr123, but will sit on the fence until I find out if it got pwm or not.


----------



## rjking (Jan 15, 2013)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



jorn said:


> , , , , will sit on the fence until I find out if it got pwm or not.



+1:candle:


----------



## Cairo (Mar 9, 2013)

I'm getting one of these for my 16th birthday. can't wait but it's so long away


----------



## smarkum (Mar 9, 2013)

Cairo said:


> I'm getting one of these for my 16th birthday. can't wait but it's so long away



Very great birthday gift. You will remember your 16th every time you use or admire the light. 
Congratulations and I hope time flies for you 

Sent from my SPH-L900


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 9, 2013)

Cairo said:


> I'm getting one of these for my 16th birthday. can't wait but it's so long away



Hopefully you will put it on a key ring!


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## tobrien (Mar 21, 2014)

sorry to bump this, but correct me if I'm wrong:

Rev. 1: Low --> Med --> High
Rev. 2: Low --> High
Rev. 3: (*TBD?*)

How was the mode spacing on rev. 1? I used to have a Rev. 2 but I think they must've used a lower grade copper or something because, despite me living and carrying it in the hot and humid Southern USA, it hardly got a patina.

Do y'all know if there was an actual weight difference between the two revisions that might explain the second revision I had not getting much of a patina?


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## mcbrat (Mar 21, 2014)

My rev2 has gotten a good patina. But it varies with use and carry method. It was supposed to be a bit shorter, but it's not. I belice your mode listing is correct. Some of the rev1 had M-L-H but that may have been the AL ones. On the cu the knurling length differs.


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## papageorgio (Mar 21, 2014)

My Aluminum Rev 3 is M-L-H.


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## fyrstormer (Mar 24, 2014)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



bob4apple said:


> Thanks for your answers, guys. I know it works great on alkaline and NIMH.
> I was hoping that some brave souls risked using lions on high for extended periods and got away with it.
> Realistically, it would be too costly to replace if the experiment failed.


I wouldn't go anywhere near a lion, especially if it were high. That's just asking for trouble.


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## tobrien (Mar 25, 2014)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



fyrstormer said:


> I wouldn't go anywhere near a lion, especially if it were high. That's just asking for trouble.



what kind of drugs do lions do these days?


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## fyrstormer (Mar 29, 2014)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

I wisely stay too far away to ask.


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## tobrien (Mar 29, 2014)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



fyrstormer said:


> I wisely stay too far away to ask.



haha I'm just giving you a hard time


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## smarkum (May 1, 2014)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

I really enjoy the ease of this light!


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## Dingle1911 (May 1, 2014)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

Smarkum, do you polish your light or is it still new? If you polish it what do you use?


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## GhostReaction (May 1, 2014)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

:lolsign:


tobrien said:


> what kind of drugs do lions do these days?


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## justanotherguy (May 1, 2014)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

Is this light available in single mode... Or can they be modded?


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## fyrstormer (May 2, 2014)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



tobrien said:


> haha I'm just giving you a hard time


Did I somehow give you the impression I was being serious?


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## easilyled (May 2, 2014)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



tobrien said:


> what kind of drugs do lions do these days?



Caninebis ........ at least that's the word on the Serengeti.


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## Lord Flashlight (May 2, 2014)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*

Can you still buy these?


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## mcbrat (May 2, 2014)

*Re: HELP! Re: The Maratac AAA "Cu"*



Lord Flashlight said:


> Can you still buy these?


 they show as still available at CountyComm


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## jaxxsun (May 3, 2014)

I had several Maratac flashlights and gave them out as gifts . The copper ages beautifuly. But to my dismay. The Maratac AA copper stopped working. I inquired about getting it fixed and recived a short email about sending me some information. That was over a week ago. So I am done. I just picked up a Zebra light and looking at Olight to fill all of my flashlight needs. If you really want a beautiful copper flash light. Get a AAA from Prometheus lights. They are better made than maratec and Jason will fix it if it ever just dies.That has been my edc for months.


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## turkeylord (May 28, 2014)

Finally got the nuts to go for it, and now I have an Illumination Supply Nichia 219B Preon 2 pill in my Maratac AAA Cu. 

I had tried to remove the pill the conventional way several times, but it proved impossible. Weighed my options and decided that I would sacrifice the Preon head to get the pill out without harm.

Couldn't find my big file so Leatherman it was. Filed down till I could see threads.





I wound up filing down 6 flats.





"Peeling" the head pieces off the pill.





Free at last! Look at all that glue.





Pill cleaned up and installed in Maratac head.





Head on the Preon 2 body.





And finally the Maratac.






Works perfectly


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## tobrien (May 29, 2014)

^^^^ that is amazing!


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## turkeylord (May 29, 2014)

Thanks! I run it on an Efest IMR 10440 and the output is just :rock:


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## mcbrat (May 29, 2014)

turkeylord said:


> Thanks! I run it on an Efest IMR 10440 and the output is just :rock:



Yep. I run a 14500 on my Cu AA clicky that has been moved to a 219.


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## turkeylord (Jun 2, 2014)

I'd like to convert my Cu AA clicky too, but I can't get the pill out for the life of me. I don't like the ramp down/up UI.


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## mcbrat (Jun 2, 2014)

turkeylord said:


> I'd like to convert my Cu AA clicky too, but I can't get the pill out for the life of me. I don't like the ramp down/up UI.



Vinh put the led in for me. I just keep the head tight and use it as a single mode light.


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## jorn (Jun 2, 2014)

Just put it in a plastic bag and boil it. Then use force. You need to heat the glue to have any chance to get the pill out. I like boiling it because it`s easy to over heat it with a lighter or blowtorch


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## turkeylord (Jun 2, 2014)

I had tried the stove burner I think, but that sounds like a better idea. I'll give it a shot.


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## racuda (Jun 28, 2014)

I have a Cu Maratac, about 2 1/2 years old. The threads have always been a little gritty, and when the battery died today I decided to clean them up. I simply wiped them with a paper towel, then lubed with synthetic light gun grease, then wiped some more. 

The grittyness was much improved, but now the light only has one mode - low. I cleaned up the end of the tube with 1000 sandpaper to bare metal and no change. What can I do?


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## racuda (Jun 28, 2014)

Also I should mention that I have cleaned out the head with an alcohol soaked toothpick, and looked at it with 10X magnification. I saw a metal sliver and removed it with a needle. No change.


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## mcbrat (Jun 29, 2014)

You just running AAA or li-Ion


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## greg c (Sep 23, 2014)

Were any of the Rev 2's made with high first? I'm trying to purchase a new in pouch one but the seller understandably does not want to open it up to check for me.


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## mcbrat (Sep 23, 2014)

greg c said:


> Were any of the Rev 2's made with high first? I'm trying to purchase a new in pouch one but the seller understandably does not want to open it up to check for me.


Nope, just low-high


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## greg c (Sep 23, 2014)

thank you for the quick reply sir!


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## magellan (Sep 29, 2014)

I just bought one from Countycomm. It's only my second Cu light (first one was the copper 1xRCR123A light from TnC).


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## rjking (May 7, 2015)

Beautiful.


PoliceScannerMan said:


> Ohhhhhh yeah, no chemicals, just my hands from EDC! :rock:


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## mcbrat (May 7, 2015)

here's the trio....

Revs 1,2,3

Rev 1: L-M-H. 
Rev 2: L-H. Head is slightly longer, knurling on head covers larger area. body appears identical to Rev 1.
Rev 3: M-L-H. Head almost identical to Rev 2, except larger "space" at edge of knurling. knurling on body covers smaller area than rev 1 or rev 2.


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## recDNA (May 7, 2015)

I wish they would make a single mode version - high only. I never use a triple A more than a couple of minutes at a time.


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## PoliceScannerMan (May 7, 2015)

rjking said:


> Beautiful.



Thanks, a few more gouges but still tarnished!


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## jon_slider (May 8, 2015)




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