# Review: Zebralight SC600w mkIII HI (XHP-35 HI, 18650)



## mhanlen (May 9, 2016)

*Review: Zebralight SC600 mkIII HI*
​
Ok, so here’s my review of the new Zebralight SC600 mkIII HI. I’ve been working on this review for a while, and finally got it done this morning. In the review I, go over the UI and programming modes, wander around outside and inside with the light, test brightness levels, test runtimes, and have tweaked the formula of the beamshot section that someone here had suggested to me, in my Nitecore MH20GT review.


Anyway, it’s long- I think my longest review to date- but it’s because there was a lot to go over. This light was purchased for full price from Zebralight and was sponsored by my debit card. 


Thanks!



​


edit: I misspoke on the 2nd runtime test. Just watch the clock and ignore the time I say... Or subtract an hour.


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## noboneshotdog (May 9, 2016)

:twothumbs:twothumbs Four thumbs up! Nice video review!


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## regulator (May 9, 2016)

Nice review. I liked the different approach and video - nice job.


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## Vothelo (May 9, 2016)

Just saw the review, always enjoy your videos, particularly the comments...maybe because I have the same sense of humor, or not. 
Keep the reviews coming.


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## mhanlen (May 9, 2016)

noboneshotdog said:


> :twothumbs:twothumbs Four thumbs up! Nice video review!



I'll take it, thanks!




regulator said:


> Nice review. I liked the different approach and video - nice job.



I try to make mine a bit different. So different that I got a thumbs down in the first 20 minutes it was posted!



Vothelo said:


> Just saw the review, always enjoy your videos, particularly the comments...maybe because I have the same sense of humor, or not.
> Keep the reviews coming.



Thanks! I will admit, sometimes it's hard to come up with flashlight jokes.


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## KITROBASKIN (May 9, 2016)

Useful review:comparison beamshots are great.

If you use a ZL nightly like some of us, the user interface slip-ups become very rare, with the possible exception of turning on and double clicking too fast after turn on. The fact that you do not use a ZL regularly, would understandably result in those valid issues you spoke of. 

Does your ArmyTek edc really give you the mode options you practically use? Care to comment on your ArmyTek UI?


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## mhanlen (May 9, 2016)

Yep! It has all the lows the Zebralight does, and just about everything in between. The Armytek has a harder to mash button, which I don't like as much... but I like the Press and hold shortcut to low, A quick press is "last mode," Double click is medium grouping, and 3 clicks is turbo. Honestly turbo is probably my least used mode, because most of my carry is indoors. I actually carry my zebralight often, several times a week. I own a ton of lights... and the Zebralights UI is unique, it is not what I'm used to in an electronic switch light. The single click turbo is the thing that trips me up most. I've set it to the 100 lumen mode, so when I accidentally press once (thinking to activate mode memory) my pupils don't dilate, when I'm reading paperwork at work in a dark room.


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## SG Hall (May 9, 2016)

Excellent video Mr. Hanlen, thanks. [emoji106] I liked the new format, but I'm a goldfish so I don't remember the old one.... 

I might have to consider this light after your review, in addition to the H600fw II that I have. I have accepted the UI confusion of that one. You don't need night vision with 1000 lumens strapped to your forehead anyway.


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## KITROBASKIN (May 9, 2016)

Many Thanks


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## kellyglanzer (May 9, 2016)

nice job on the video bro. i like your style 
Wish my light would hurry and get here. your vid helped tide me over until its arrival though.


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## TCY (May 10, 2016)

Thanks mhanlen, I've been waiting for a review on the HI version for a long time. Kudos!


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## tops2 (May 10, 2016)

Thanks for your review. The beams shots are super helpful. If it wasn't for the up coming high CRI version, I'd have gotten this light already.


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## neutralwhite (May 10, 2016)

Thanks from London !.


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## Equitymind (May 10, 2016)

Great review. I'm putting in my order when it's in stock next. No more flashlights until I can get this one, this is my next light.


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## eekazum (May 10, 2016)

Great review. I JUST ordered this light. The ui sounds crazy complicated. How long did it take you to grasp all that?


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## mhanlen (May 10, 2016)

TCY said:


> Thanks mhanlen, I've been waiting for a review on the HI version for a long time. Kudos!



Thanks! I got it because it was the light that interested me those most out of Zebralights new lineup of sc600s and 63s.



tops2 said:


> Thanks for your review. The beams shots are super helpful. If it wasn't for the up coming high CRI version, I'd have gotten this light already.



Whaaaaa... is it High Cri and HI? Or just High CRI. I didnt know this. 



neutralwhite said:


> Thanks from London !.



No problem!



Equitymind said:


> Great review. I'm putting in my order when it's in stock next. No more flashlights until I can get this one, this is my next light.



I've said that before!



eekazum said:


> Great review. I JUST ordered this light. The ui sounds crazy complicated. How long did it take you to grasp all that?



I make it sound way harder than it actually is. It's all shortcuts. A quick press to high. Double click to medium. Longer press to low. Each of those modes, also has a sub mode that you can double click to switch between when your in that mode. Does that make it sound easier?


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## TCY (May 10, 2016)

mhanlen said:


> Thanks! I got it because it was the light that interested me those most out of Zebralights new lineup of sc600s and 63s.



If there won't be a high CRI version like the others mentioned I'll probably get the HI version. The high CRI one is basically XHP50 instead of XHP35, 5000K, 93-95 CRI with frosted lens.


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## mhanlen (May 10, 2016)

Gotcha... I dont feel like I'm missing out then, as I wanted the extra throw of the high. Thanks!


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## markr6 (May 10, 2016)

Great review...great light!!


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## snowlover91 (May 10, 2016)

markr6 said:


> Great review...great light!!



Agreed excellent review thanks for taking the time and sharing your review with us!

As far as 18650 format goes I personally think the SC62 and MK3 HI have to be the two best lights ZL has made with the HI actually becoming my new favorite. It's that good.


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## tops2 (May 10, 2016)

Haha.. Yeah, just a high CRI version...not HI version. I think before I thought it's nice to have long throw, but for my purpose, even my SC5w throws far enough. But with all the raves the SC600 MKIII HI is getting, it's the one I have second most interest in (after the high CRI version).

Yeah, I like the new format too in comparing beamshots. It makes, especially when browsing on the phone, much easier to compare shots between the reviewed light (don't have to keep trying accurately scroll in youtube). I like how it gives you more time to educate/reiterate some points too.

As an aside, I like the comparison between the Nitecore MH20GT vs the SC600w MKIII HI. I guess for my preference, I'll take the SC600w MKIII HI for the larger spill at the expense of reduced throw (my eyes probably can't even see that far anyways..lol).



eekazum said:


> Great review. I JUST ordered this light. The ui sounds crazy complicated. How long did it take you to grasp all that?



Lol..to start out, learning from off the quick click for high, double click for medium and slightly longer click for low. Changing mode is just long click in low-medium-high order whether from off or on. The "pro-tip" is if you don't want to get blasted by the high "pre flash" before going into medium, then just long press to cycle from off until you cycle to medium. The trickiest for me (and sounds like for many) is getting the timing to the low level.

Don't worry about the sublevels (toggled by double click on any level) until you get the basic low-medium-high controls down.

Then when you're ready, you can learn to "program" the sublevels if you want. Programming is basically with the light on, you double click a bunch of times (6 times to enter programming mode) till you get the level you want, then turn off the light.

The UI is actually pretty easy for me when I learned it in these steps. Otherwise my head was spinning and felt like exploding when I tried to take in the UI when I first heard about it.


There was another Zebralight thread discussing the UI, which makes for an interesting read. I basically have to slow down when using my Zebralight otherwise I'll get into an unintended mode. I used to blast myself on high more often too, so I ended up cupping my free hand over the head when trying to get to the moonlight mode. But I'm used to the timing now that I rarely make mistakes. This UI makes it really hard for me to use other lights.


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## eekazum (May 10, 2016)

Thanks for the tips! Personally, I find it hilarious how it used to be a joke having instructions manuals in flashlights. The concept of solar powered flashlights used to be a joke too but they are becoming more and more common these days.

What's next? Extra-medium shirts?


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## Bullzeyebill (May 10, 2016)

Moving this to Flashlight Reviews.

Bill


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## easilyled (May 10, 2016)

In order to be more sure of accessing low-mode consistently from the off-position I press and hold and say or think "Zebralight" before releasing it. It nearly always works.


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## KITROBASKIN (May 10, 2016)

One of the beautiful aspects of a ZebraLight is the ability to program a sublumen mode pretty much ideal for fully-night-adapted eyes, during a middle of the night foray. Since a person may not be sure which setting the low mode is, it is easy to first turn on low mode with the beam shining away from the direction one is looking, such as toward one's feet. Then it is a simple matter of double clicking if the sub lumen mode is not activated. And then if a little more light is needed to achieve some objective, a simple double click takes it to a little bit brighter mode, and the eyes are usually not zapped too badly, having already adjusted to the sublumen level.

Just curious how your ArmyTek EDC handles that scenario. I think this question is in the spirit of your (somewhat) comparison review.


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## mhanlen (May 11, 2016)

That's basically how the Armytek works. It operates very very similarly to the Zebralight... but has last mode memory, shortcuts to low, medium, high, and strobe groupings. 

Armytek:
Press and hold and not let go to scroll through all 6 brightness modes.
Low grouping...press and hold. If you release during one of the two modes you'll be locked into low grouping when you press and hold again. 2 levels.
Medium. Double click. Pressing and holding locks you into a 3 mode grouping. 
Turbo. Click 3 times.
Strobe... click 4 times.

And it also has mode memory, if you give it a quick press from off. Since I mostly use low and mid modes, because most of my use is indoors, I don't use turbo much. So it's rarely saved into mode memory. Turbo (High) is always mandatory on a Zebralight with a short click. The UI's are very similar. Also when going directly to medium on an Armytek, unless you were using turbo last, and you double click you don't have to have a brief flash of turbo.


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## KeepingItLight (May 11, 2016)

Thanks for a great review!

I like the new format you are using for beam shots. Comparing five or six other flashlights, and showing the ZebraLight footage before and after each one, makes it easy to see how the ZL sizes up. 

With flashlights that have a little more throw, such as this ZL and the Nitecore MH20GT, the shed at 75 feet is probably too close. I would like to see you light up the shed first, and then the trees behind it (or some other distant target), afterwards. You did that for the MH20GT, but not for all of the other flashlights. 

CPF member fnsooner measured current draw for the *ZebraLight SC600w Mk. III HI* at 6 amps!



fnsooner said:


> I just ran some tailcap amp tests on my SC600w HI MK III using four Sanyo NCR18650GA cells. I ran the tests several times and topped the cells off during the tests just to double check things.
> 
> With cells at 4.20VDC I am getting a current reading of 6A on the MK III HI.



The Panasonic NCR18650B battery is not rated for such a high current draw. The "GA" is probably a better choice for this flashlight. Below is an excerpt from the datasheet for the Sanyo/Panasonic NCR18650B battery. As you can see, it is rated for a maximum continuous discharge current of 4.875 amps.


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## mhanlen (May 11, 2016)

Thanks! Let me address a few things. First the battery... When I purchased this light I purchased the Panasonic battery for this purpose. IN the Zebralight manual does it say there are built in voltage, current, and temperature protections. It also doesn't specify on the product page that you use a high drain, or in the manual either. At the bottom of the product page a 3500 high drain battery is pictured to buy, but that's about it. During all of my testing never did the light behave erratically, shut off abruptly, or had extremely short runtimes. In fact it behaved exactly like I expected it to. Also the brightness readings I got were slightly higher on some modes than the spec. 

As far as the beamshots go... The MT20GT had the exact same runtime section, so you must be remembering back to my brinyte or Acebeam video. The difference is that I replicated the Zebralight beamshot this time for every light I tested it against. 

There are a few reasons why I chose not to include the trees way in the distance, even though I had before (not recently though) So let me explain. For one... The trees are about 250 feet away, and unlike photo beamshots I'm running at a 24 or 48 a second shutter speed... So unless the lights are consistently getting over 50kcd... It won't be that impressive... Only 1 light does in this test. Even 50kcd isn't that great looking at that distance. 

Check out the brinyte video and tell me what you think. The beamshots are at around 8 minutes in. 

https://youtu.be/CCG6AvtZcZE

The second is time... He beamshot section got considerable longer in this review... And the review was nearly 15 minutes... All my analytics point to people watching an average about 2:30 of video. I know some people watch the whole thing ... But 15 minutes is stretching the patience of most people who aren't flashlight nerds. This added part would have given me probably another 3 or 4 minutes... And I've never had anyone say to me that they prefer 20 minute videos. 

I won't discount doing it in the future for "throwers" but look how that D40A in the brinyte video struggles with the black section which is 250 feet away in the center. If there was a distant object that was reflective (like the shed) it might be worth it... But honestly I don't do it a lot of the time because of length and because it doesn't add much. An 18kcd light isn't really a "thrower." And basically all I have to work with in my videos is my back yard. 

Anyway thanks, but I thought I should offer an explanation as to why I made the choices I did.


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## mhanlen (May 11, 2016)

By the way... Regarding my post directly above... I just sent an inquiry to Zebralights customer service regarding the battery I used. So I'll report what they say, when they respond. If they say not to use the Panasonic, I won't. Again, I've never experienced any performance problems by using this battery in the Zebralight.


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## shk (May 11, 2016)

Always enjoy watching your review video, great job and thank you


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## KeepingItLight (May 11, 2016)

I think the internal resistance and voltage sag of the Pany "B" are higher than those of the "G." In the *ZebraLight SC600 Mk. III HI*, the result is that the "B" supplies less current, and may actually run longer than the "GA." 

I do not recommend operating a battery right at its maximum. The discharge charts posted by HKJ show that voltage sag is generally greater there. The reason why batteries like the Panasonic NCR18650GA and the Samsung INR18650-30Q work so well with a flashlight like the Mk. III HI is because their maximum continuous discharge ratings are much higher than what the flashlight will draw. This puts you right in the sweet spot of the discharge curves, where the battery operates very efficiently.

Another reason has to do with a battery's characteristic as it ages. Internal resistance increases with age. Thus, a battery that can deliver 10 amps continuously when new, will have a harder time doing the same thing down the line.


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## mhanlen (May 12, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> I think the internal resistance and voltage sag of the Pany "B" are higher than those of the "G." In the *ZebraLight SC600 Mk. III HI*, the result is that the "B" supplies less current, and may actually run longer than the "GA."
> 
> I do not recommend operating a battery right at its maximum. The discharge charts posted by HKJ show that voltage sag is generally greater there. The reason why batteries like the Panasonic NCR18650GA and the Samsung INR18650-30Q work so well with a flashlight like the Mk. III HI is because their maximum continuous discharge ratings are much higher than what the flashlight will draw. This puts you right in the sweet spot of the discharge curves, where the battery operates very efficiently.
> 
> Another reason has to do with a battery's characteristic as it ages. Internal resistance increases with age. Thus, a battery that can deliver 10 amps continuously when new, will have a harder time doing the same thing down the line.





Hopefully this clears things up. This is directly from Zebralight.


Department: Sales

Subject: Battery question regarding sc600mkiii HI

Unprotected Panasonic 3400mAh is good enough for the SC600 Mk III HI. The current draw is less than the 6Amp mentioned (a typical multimeter won't give you accurate measurements because of the resistance introduced by the testing leads, etc.)

Sincerely,

ZebraLight, Inc.


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## KeepingItLight (May 12, 2016)

Thanks for the info. 

My own advise remains. If the current draws for this flashlight do not exceed the 4.875-amp maximum specified by the manufacturer of the NCR18650B, they come very close. You will get better performance using the NCR18650GA, _which is the battery sold by ZebraLight itself for this flashlight,_ or the Samsung INR18650-30Q, another good medium-draw battery, than you will with the "B."

It is one thing to say it's okay to use a certain battery. It is another thing to claim that same battery is the best or most efficient for the task.


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## mhanlen (May 12, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> Thanks for the info.
> 
> My own advise remains. If the current draws for this flashlight do not exceed the 4.875-amp maximum specified by the manufacturer of the NCR18650B, they come very close. You will get better performance using the NCR18650GA, _which is the battery sold by ZebraLight itself for this flashlight,_ or the Samsung INR18650-30Q, another good medium-draw battery, than you will with the "B."
> 
> It is one thing to say it's okay to use a certain battery. It is another thing to claim that same battery is the best or most efficient for the task.



Thanks. I'm pretty happy with the performance of the Panasonic. I didn't see any serious deficiencies or anomalies during my testing.


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## mhanlen (May 18, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> Thanks for the info.
> 
> My own advise remains. If the current draws for this flashlight do not exceed the 4.875-amp maximum specified by the manufacturer of the NCR18650B, they come very close. You will get better performance using the NCR18650GA, _which is the battery sold by ZebraLight itself for this flashlight,_ or the Samsung INR18650-30Q, another good medium-draw battery, than you will with the "B."
> 
> It is one thing to say it's okay to use a certain battery. It is another thing to claim that same battery is the best or most efficient for the task.




I really hate to beat a dead horse... But something didn't sit right. Panasonic claims this cell on their own data sheets that the 3400 is capable of 6.8a max discharge. So I have no idea where that figure comes from. If you check on vape forums- a lot of people also report the 6.8a too. 

Now who knows what Zebralights response meant. Does the light draw 6 amps or doesn't it. They say the battery is fine, as does my testing. 

Here is the spec sheet to which I'm referring which contradicts the 4.8 on the Sanyo data sheet.

https://industrial.panasonic.com/cdbs/www-data/pdf2/ACA4000/ACA4000CE417.pdf


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## markr6 (May 18, 2016)

mhanlen said:


> I really hate to beat a dead horse... But something didn't sit right. Panasonic claims this cell on their own data sheets that the 3400 is capable of 6.8a max discharge. So I have no idea where that figure comes from.



People assuming 2*Capacity (2 * 3.4Ah = 6.8A). But is that always the case for every battery? I honestly don't know.


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## KeepingItLight (May 18, 2016)

mhanlen said:


> Here is the spec sheet to which I'm referring which contradicts the 4.8 on the Sanyo data sheet.
> 
> https://industrial.panasonic.com/cdbs/www-data/pdf2/ACA4000/ACA4000CE417.pdf



4.875 amps is the only published rating for maximum continuous discharge current. _The datasheet you linked is silent on the subject._

Sanyo is the designer and original manufacturer of the NCR18650. The datasheet released by Sanyo is the only one that explicitly states what the maximum continuous discharge current is. I posted an excerpt from that datasheet above. It gives the maximum as 4.875 amps.

When Panasonic bought Sanyo, it released a datasheet under the Panasonic logo. Frustratingly, that datasheet has less detail than the original. It does not explicitly provide a maximum continuous discharge current.

Orbtronic has promulgated much of the confusion. It took the Panasonic datasheet, and from it, _guessed_ that 2C was the maximum continuous discharge current. Given the absence of data, there was little else it could do. I discuss Orbtronic's derivation in this CPF post. Orbtronic continues to post 6.8 amps on its web site. 

I am glad you brought this up. It helps get the word out. Too many people now believe that a continuous 6.8-amp draw is okay with the NCR18650. It is not.

CPF member fnsooner measured current draw on his *ZebraLight SC600w Mk. III HI* at 6 amps. He reports that here. If you read through the discussion that follows, you will see that his methods are good. He appears to know what he is doing. 

When ZebraLight discounted fnsooner's report in its reply to your email, it cited reasons why he might have measured a lower value. Thin test leads do not give you an artificially high reading. The only explanation ZebraLight has for fnsooner's measurement is that his equipment or methodology is defective. In reading his descriptions of the procedure he uses, however, I did not get that feeling.

Be that as it may, I think we can safely say that the new ZebraLight driver is capable of pulling in excess of 5 amps. Given those current levels, it is wise to have a little headroom. Don't buy a battery rated at 5 amps. Try something higher. 

As a Li-ion battery ages, its internal resistance (IR) can increase. Increased IR means increased voltage sag and lower currents. A new Pany "B" that can deliver 5 amps will have trouble doing that when its IR has increased. A battery such as the "GA," which is rated for a 10-amp continuous draw, should be able to pump out 5 amps even when its IR has increased a little bit.

If we ignore what happens as a battery ages, the "GA" is still a better choice than the "B." When both are new, the "B" sags more than the "GA" at 5 amps.


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## mhanlen (May 18, 2016)

You're assumption is entirely based upon one of two data sheets being wrong. Is that fair to say? And your criteria that one is correct is based upon Panasonic buying Sanyo, and one having a number instead of a graph. Is this fair to say?

And the word "tentative" on the original spec sheet or the early date are just anecdotal?


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## KeepingItLight (May 18, 2016)

I don't think either datasheet is wrong. One of them provides the maximum continuous discharge current. The other does not. 

Current maximums are like the red lines on a tachometer. Your high-performance engine is not going to blow up the first time you go past the red line. The fact that Panasonic posts a 2C chart does not mean that 2C is above or below the maximum continuous discharge current. It only means that Panasonic tested it there. If you think about it, how else might Panasonic be able to establish the maximum? It has to test.

In addition, the 2C chart helps establish battery behavior under a pulse discharge. It shows the voltage sag you can expect.

Nowhere on the chart does Panasonic say that one of the lines represents the maximum continuous discharge current.

Don't worry too much about the "tentative" marking. A lot of these datasheet have it.


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## mhanlen (May 18, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> I don't think either datasheet is wrong. One of them provides the maximum continuous discharge current. The other does not.
> 
> Current maximums are like the red lines on a tachometer. Your high-performance engine is not going to blow up the first time you go past the red line. The fact that Panasonic posts a 2C chart does not mean that 2C is above or below the maximum continuous discharge current. It only means that Panasonic tested it there. If you think about it, how else might Panasonic be able to establish the maximum? It has to test.
> 
> ...






Ok, well it's kind of speculation then. Alright. It was tested there and three other places, but it doesn't say maximum or minimum or anything. Got it. The light doesn't discharge at 6.87 amps, but it was posted it discharges for an unknown number of minutes or seconds at 6amps. I don't think there's anything more to discuss.


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## KeepingItLight (May 18, 2016)

mhanlen said:


> Ok, well it's kind of speculation then. ... <snip>



Right. 

It requires assumption or speculation to say that any of the lines on the Panasonic chart represents the maximum continuous discharge current. Panasonic makes no such claim, either on the chart, or anywhere else in its datasheet.

I have wondered why Panasonic does not post an absolute limit, or number, to describe maximum discharge current. I do not know its reasons. Part of it may style. After all, any number you choose is somewhat arbitrary. 

Consider, for instance, the NCR18650GA ("GA"). How do you think Sanyo arrived at its 10-amp rating? My understanding is that it chose that value after analyzing the discharge tests it made. It was chosen as a reasonable compromise between performance and voltage sag. I don't believe there is any magic formula that output exactly 10 amps. Sanyo simply chose that number.

Perhaps Panasonic would rather let the graphs speak for themselves. Rather than setting an arbitrary limit, it wants engineers to make their own analyses. It is also possible that Panasonic's larger customers have access to technical information that Panasonic does not publish on the Internet.

Speaking of the "GA," are you comfortable saying it has a 10-amp continuous-discharge specification? If so, you should know that it comes from a Sanyo—rather than a Panasonic—datasheet. The Sanyo document has the same format and "tentative" marking as the one it released for the "B." If you are happy with the GA's rating, you should probably be willing to accept the rating for the B, as well. 

They come from the same source.


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## GaryRanson (May 19, 2016)

Enjoyed the review and have one in transit. Will be trying LG IWR18650-MJ1, Sanyo NCR18650GA and Panasonic NCR18650B to see if there is any noticeable difference.


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## markr6 (May 19, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> Speaking of the "GA," are you comfortable saying it has a 10-amp continuous-discharge specification?



Depends who you ask. Keeppower or Efest would probably be comfortable calling it a 60A


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## mhanlen (May 19, 2016)

GaryRanson said:


> Enjoyed the review and have one in transit. Will be trying LG IWR18650-MJ1, Sanyo NCR18650GA and Panasonic NCR18650B to see if there is any noticeable difference.



Cool man! Let me know what you find. I have about 20-30 batteries.... Even some high drain, but none flat top and high drain... I bought the 3400 mah hour- because Zebralight hasn't necessarily specified the operating tolerance the light required and I've used that battery a lot- which is why I bought it. 

I've ran the light continuously for longer than probably most- and it worked fine. I'd be interested to know if someone experienced issues with it. I don't think you will, but sometimes lights can be finicky. 

But by all means... Use high drains instead.


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## tops2 (May 19, 2016)

Yeah, forgot which Zebralight thread (too many for the new models!), think ~2 members mentioned they're light flickered on H1 mode with their non-high drain batteries. I think one then tried a high drain battery and it was fine after. But can't seem to find the posts..but from my bad memory...I think one had tried with a 2600 mah battery (not the 3400 mah battery). To me, this isn't conclusive evidence the newer MKIIIs and SC63 require high drain. But I'd still go with a high drain battery if I don't have one already.

Ok..found it.. I don't know how to directly link to the correct post but on the SC63(w) thread from post #1006:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ke-the-SC63w&p=4899371&viewfull=1#post4899371


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## scs (May 19, 2016)

mhanlen said:


> Cool man! Let me know what you find. I have about 20-30 batteries.... Even some high drain, but none flat top and high drain... I bought the 3400 mah hour- because Zebralight hasn't necessarily specified the operating tolerance the light required and I've used that battery a lot- which is why I bought it.
> 
> I've ran the light continuously for longer than probably most- and it worked fine. I'd be interested to know if someone experienced issues with it. I don't think you will, but sometimes lights can be finicky.
> 
> But by all means... Use high drains instead.



Based on your empirical experience, the B cell can power the light. There's no denying that, but I thought your discussion with KIL was regarding whether it was still a good choice when compared to the GA cell. The parameter of IR then came up and appears to be a deciding factor. And I don't think KIL "chastised" you as you noted on BLF.


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## mhanlen (May 19, 2016)

scs said:


> Based on your empirical experience, the B cell can power the light. There's no denying that, but I thought your discussion with KIL was regarding whether it was still a good choice when compared to the GA cell. The parameter of IR then came up and appears to be a deciding factor. And I don't think KIL "chastised" you as you noted on BLF.



Forgive me if I think your comment is sort of designed to stir the pot, instead of add to the discussion... But I'll address this anyway.

So when I tested this light and purchased the cell... It hadn't been tested to death... I hadn't read countless posts about the light or whatever. So I had no idea about the 6amp pull or anything. Again Zebralight says one thing a CPF member says another. I have used the Panasonic many times in other reviews and in lights that pull over 1000 lumens on a single cell without ill effect. Again based upon the perfectly normal operation and behavior of the light, there was never any indication the light was too much for the battery. In my review I mentioned what cell I use... Like I do in all my reviews... and I'll note if there are any specific manufacturer recommendations of "high drain" cells- and use those of course. None was mentioned by Zebralight so there was no reason to make a note. Now when I read the quote from KIL below forgive me if maybe I overreacted a bit to what he said. 



> It is one thing to say it's okay to use a certain battery. It is another thing to claim that same battery is the best or most efficient for the task.



Do you think this is kind of a misrepresentation of anything I've said? I do. Never did I say it's the "best choice" for the light. My review was done and completed before anyone brought this to my attention. Never did I claim the 3400 mah Panasonic was the "best battery" for anything. Just that it worked fine and I saw no performance anomalies compared to Zebralights specs. All I ever implied was it's "ok" for me to use. Nothing more.


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## Bullzeyebill (May 19, 2016)

I think that enough has been said about batteries, and then re said. Let's move on to the topic, the SC600w.

Bill


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## KeepingItLight (May 20, 2016)

As we move off the subject of batteries, please let me apologize to MHanlen. 



> It is one thing to say it's okay to use a certain battery. It is another thing to claim that same battery is the best or most efficient for the task.



When I wrote that, I was referring to what ZebraLight had written. After you posted ZebraLight's statement that the Pany B was "good enough," I was trying to point out that ZebraLight did not say that the Pany B was best. I did not say—nor mean to say—that it was your claim.

Reading it now, I can see how you might have thought I was referring to you. 

Sorry.


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## mhanlen (May 20, 2016)

Thanks man! We're good. I updated the video with an annotation and description to include the Panasonic on Zebralights website as the best option. Just so everyone is clear. Nothing to see here... Just saying love the light. I'm carrying it today!


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## fnsooner (May 20, 2016)

Great review, thanks.




mhanlen said:


> ...but it was posted it discharges for an unknown number of minutes or seconds at 6amps.



I was getting high amp readings up close to 6A, but after looking at varied amperage readings from others, I would say that my meter was giving me too high of a reading. I am still not certain what the 600 HI draws but looking at what others were getting in their tests, I would guess 4A to 4.5A. I keep meaning to get a clamp on DC amp meter and to test again.


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## mhanlen (May 20, 2016)

Honestly I've tried getting accurate readings from my DMMs, but I have never found good consistency from them. I don't think any data I would gather from them would be reliable enough to include in my reviews- so I don't. Plus, many lights are different, so you need to often modify your testing methods to get readings at all. I have seen many people get off the wall readings... and I don't know how useful they even are on some lights which vary the current the pull from the light at any given time. Then there's upgrading to better leads... 

I know that my lumens ratings are also subject to variance too, but at least they're a good indicator of their relative brightness to other lights I test and own.

Anyway I would tend to agree with the 4.5 to 5 a bit better... because if I was at or near or above the maximum amp draw for the SC600MkIII HI, my readings, runtime tests, and general function of the light would have been noticeably affected. I've used standard drain batteries with high drain lights before... and they generally act weird or just plain turn off.


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## FMKeith (May 25, 2016)

I absolutely love your videos. I stumbled upon your YouTube a week or so ago and subbed right away. Keep the reviews coming.


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## mhanlen (May 25, 2016)

FMKeith said:


> I absolutely love your videos. I stumbled upon your YouTube a week or so ago and subbed right away. Keep the reviews coming.



Thanks man! I've got plenty more coming!


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## keithhr (Jul 6, 2016)

I purchased the zebralight MKII and the MKIII and it was a huge mistake. both of theses lights don't come anywhere near their advertised light
output. the thing that attracted me to these lights was the superior head side switch which is easy to find in the dark. The Run time on these lights is the worst I've ever had from any conventional edc light ever. It goes from turbo mode in a couple of minutes down to the next lowest mode,pathetic really. I've got some sunwayman c20c lights which are 2 to 3 times brighter at 1/3 the advertised output, Damn. I've been on the candlepower forums for 13 years, since the beginning and I found out when I tried to contact ths company, they are 
simply unavailable, This is not acceptable.The MKII light is so under powered that without using my light meter I'm guessing that the output is just
about 25-30% of the 1100 lumen stated output. With batteries fresh off the charger neither light will cycle to the high mode, I feel like I've been ripped off and there is nothing I can do because Zebralight is not available. More money down the drain, sound familiar guys?
I purchased 4 of the olight baton series and the side switches have all failed. Initially within the first 3 weeks for one, and I got a return number at first but I didn't call amazon within the first 30 days, so can't go to them and the first one I got I was out in my car and I was so irritated I wound up tossing it out the window, now I've got 3 lights left and the place I called in Smyrna Georgia first , 678-424-1116 20 rings, no message machine doesn't pick up. I've got a lot of money over these years since I got hooked like the rest of us here and I'm stuck and really irritated about that but I keep trying, stupid me.


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## LeukTech (Jul 6, 2016)

keithhr said:


> I purchased the zebralight MKII and the MKIII and it was a huge mistake. both of theses lights don't come anywhere near their advertised light
> output. the thing that attracted me to these lights was the superior head side switch which is easy to find in the dark. The Run time on these lights is the worst I've ever had from any conventional edc light ever. It goes from turbo mode in a couple of minutes down to the next lowest mode,pathetic really. I've got some sunwayman c20c lights which are 2 to 3 times brighter at 1/3 the advertised output, Damn. I've been on the candlepower forums for 13 years, since the beginning and I found out when I tried to contact ths company, they are
> simply unavailable, This is not acceptable.The MKII light is so under powered that without using my light meter I'm guessing that the output is just
> about 25-30% of the 1100 lumen stated output. With batteries fresh off the charger neither light will cycle to the high mode, I feel like I've been ripped off and there is nothing I can do because Zebralight is not available. More money down the drain, sound familiar guys?
> I purchased 4 of the olight baton series and the side switches have all failed. Initially within the first 3 weeks for one, and I got a return number at first but I didn't call amazon within the first 30 days, so can't go to them and the first one I got I was out in my car and I was so irritated I wound up tossing it out the window, now I've got 3 lights left and the place I called in Smyrna Georgia first , 678-424-1116 20 rings, no message machine doesn't pick up. I've got a lot of money over these years since I got hooked like the rest of us here and I'm stuck and really irritated about that but I keep trying, stupid me.




When in doubt, ceiling bounce. You've been here long enough, you should be aware of the differences in floody vs throwy lights and their perceived brightness due to the hotspot size. 

Also I've contacted ZL many times in the past using the "contact us" link (https://zebralight.3dcartstores.com/crm.asp?action=contactus) and they always have gotten back to me. Might take a day or two but they have always replied regardless of my question.

Also I'm curious, did you get the XHP35 HI MkIII version? Cause that is what this thread is about...


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## oKtosiTe (Jul 6, 2016)

keithhr said:


> I purchased the zebralight MKII and the MKIII and it was a huge mistake. both of theses lights don't come anywhere near their advertised light
> output. the thing that attracted me to these lights was the superior head side switch which is easy to find in the dark. The Run time on these lights is the worst I've ever had from any conventional edc light ever. It goes from turbo mode in a couple of minutes down to the next lowest mode,pathetic really. I've got some sunwayman c20c lights which are 2 to 3 times brighter at 1/3 the advertised output, Damn. I've been on the candlepower forums for 13 years, since the beginning and I found out when I tried to contact ths company, they are
> simply unavailable, This is not acceptable.The MKII light is so under powered that without using my light meter I'm guessing that the output is just
> about 25-30% of the 1100 lumen stated output. With batteries fresh off the charger neither light will cycle to the high mode, I feel like I've been ripped off and there is nothing I can do because Zebralight is not available. More money down the drain, sound familiar guys?
> I purchased 4 of the olight baton series and the side switches have all failed. Initially within the first 3 weeks for one, and I got a return number at first but I didn't call amazon within the first 30 days, so can't go to them and the first one I got I was out in my car and I was so irritated I wound up tossing it out the window, now I've got 3 lights left and the place I called in Smyrna Georgia first , 678-424-1116 20 rings, no message machine doesn't pick up. I've got a lot of money over these years since I got hooked like the rest of us here and I'm stuck and really irritated about that but I keep trying, stupid me.


What cells are you using? The MKIII lives up to most people's expectations it seems, so either you got a lemon, or something else is going on.


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## mhanlen (Jul 6, 2016)

Something's got to be wrong. I've tested all outputs in the beamshot section myself... And the beamshots literally back up the figures I've listed on the screen. Did you watch the beamshot section? Does your light match what you see?


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## drummer132132 (Jul 6, 2016)

keithhr said:


> I purchased the zebralight MKII and the MKIII and it was a huge mistake. both of theses lights don't come anywhere near their advertised light
> output. the thing that attracted me to these lights was the superior head side switch which is easy to find in the dark. The Run time on these lights is the worst I've ever had from any conventional edc light ever. It goes from turbo mode in a couple of minutes down to the next lowest mode,pathetic really. I've got some sunwayman c20c lights which are 2 to 3 times brighter at 1/3 the advertised output, Damn. I've been on the candlepower forums for 13 years, since the beginning and I found out when I tried to contact ths company, they are
> simply unavailable, This is not acceptable.The MKII light is so under powered that without using my light meter I'm guessing that the output is just
> about 25-30% of the 1100 lumen stated output. With batteries fresh off the charger neither light will cycle to the high mode, I feel like I've been ripped off and there is nothing I can do because Zebralight is not available. More money down the drain, sound familiar guys?
> I purchased 4 of the olight baton series and the side switches have all failed. Initially within the first 3 weeks for one, and I got a return number at first but I didn't call amazon within the first 30 days, so can't go to them and the first one I got I was out in my car and I was so irritated I wound up tossing it out the window, now I've got 3 lights left and the place I called in Smyrna Georgia first , 678-424-1116 20 rings, no message machine doesn't pick up. I've got a lot of money over these years since I got hooked like the rest of us here and I'm stuck and really irritated about that but I keep trying, stupid me.



I have an mk iii hi and have found it to be a very good light. I don't have a light meter but I've owned enough lights to know what 1k lumen is and it definitely puts out 1k+ lumen when comparing turbo modes. Yes it does step down after a minute or two depending on ambient temperature but it's supposed to considering the size of the light which tells me the PID is working correctly which in turn will prolong the life of my light in comparison to the lights that stepdown later of equal size.

In terms of runtime I've seen nothing nor experienced anything to say the runtimes are off. I've ran M1 for about a week if not longer for about 4 hours a go and have not experienced any need to charge the battery yet.

Their customer service is fine. I've received a response within 1-3 days if not sooner on all accounts of communication with them.

Personally I find the mk iii hi to be an excellent light and performs better than what zebralight advertises. Very content.


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## jonnyfgroove (Jul 6, 2016)

keithhr said:


> I purchased the zebralight MKII and the MKIII and it was a huge mistake. both of theses lights don't come anywhere near their advertised light
> output. the thing that attracted me to these lights was the superior head side switch which is easy to find in the dark. The Run time on these lights is the worst I've ever had from any conventional edc light ever. It goes from turbo mode in a couple of minutes down to the next lowest mode,pathetic really. I've got some sunwayman c20c lights which are 2 to 3 times brighter at 1/3 the advertised output, Damn. I've been on the candlepower forums for 13 years, since the beginning and I found out when I tried to contact ths company, they are
> simply unavailable, This is not acceptable.The MKII light is so under powered that without using my light meter I'm guessing that the output is just
> about 25-30% of the 1100 lumen stated output. With batteries fresh off the charger neither light will cycle to the high mode, I feel like I've been ripped off and there is nothing I can do because Zebralight is not available. More money down the drain, sound familiar guys?
> I purchased 4 of the olight baton series and the side switches have all failed. Initially within the first 3 weeks for one, and I got a return number at first but I didn't call amazon within the first 30 days, so can't go to them and the first one I got I was out in my car and I was so irritated I wound up tossing it out the window, now I've got 3 lights left and the place I called in Smyrna Georgia first , 678-424-1116 20 rings, no message machine doesn't pick up. I've got a lot of money over these years since I got hooked like the rest of us here and I'm stuck and really irritated about that but I keep trying, stupid me.



Did you ever read your thread and try any of the suggestions?


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## Bullzeyebill (Jul 6, 2016)

*keithhr has had activity this afternoon on CPF. Not sure why he is not responding.
*


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## CelticCross74 (Jul 7, 2016)

er....his expectations of lights may very well be on a level we cannot relate to. My HI is one of the best lights I have ever bought. Dont even notice the light stepping down to cool off a bit. Battery life of the unprotected GA I have in the light is stellar..


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## easilyled (Jul 8, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> er....his expectations of lights may very well be on a level we cannot relate to.



I don't think its unreasonable to expect to see the sun light up much more brightly when pointing the SC600w mkIII HI at it. :shrug:


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## CelticCross74 (Jul 8, 2016)

I guess to be fair maybe OP did get a bad light who knows? Hope it is not a case of another person not realizing they have to use a flat top unprotected cell in the HI and are cramming what have you into it. OP should be contacting ZL CS


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## markr6 (Jul 8, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> I guess to be fair maybe OP did get a bad light who knows? Hope it is not a case of another person not realizing they have to use a flat top unprotected cell in the HI and are cramming what have you into it. OP should be contacting ZL CS



Probably either a dud, or he's using PoopFire cells. Both can be solved easily.


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## carl (Jul 8, 2016)

thanks for the video - keep telling myself I gotta get a ZL. The Meteor still impresses with its huge output!


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## mhanlen (Jul 8, 2016)

carl said:


> thanks for the video - keep telling myself I gotta get a ZL. The Meteor still impresses with its huge output!




And it ain't much taller than the Zebralight! Yeah it's probably my favorite light.


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## mhanlen (Jul 8, 2016)

carl said:


> thanks for the video - keep telling myself I gotta get a ZL. The Meteor still impresses with its huge output!




And it ain't much taller than the Zebralight! Yeah it's probably my favorite light.


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## twistedraven (Jul 8, 2016)

I always fear the M43 might be a little thick for my liking. I would have loved for them to make an M33 version with 3x3 emitter son the front that runs on 3 18650s. That layout would be much more efficient in filling a circle, so way smaller diameter for head and tube. Nevertheless, the thought of something as small as the M43 putting out that much light with HI CRI option is super tempting.


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## drummer132132 (Jul 8, 2016)

twistedraven said:


> I always fear the M43 might be a little thick for my liking. I would have loved for them to make an M33 version with 3x3 emitter son the front that runs on 3 18650s. That layout would be much more efficient in filling a circle, so way smaller diameter for head and tube. Nevertheless, the thought of something as small as the M43 putting out that much light with HI CRI option is super tempting.



I have an M43 219C with 10508 Carclo optics that I bought from mountain electronics and find it to be a fantastic light. The optics spreads the beam out so that it's a pretty floody light of 80+ cri.

Here is a video that shows it in action that I did. It's the last light if one wants to fast forward :

https://youtu.be/r0gTBvCutoQ


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## CelticCross74 (Jul 19, 2016)

to afraid Ill mess something up on the Meteor and it well explode with the force of a grenade in my hand all that will be left of me will be a corpse that permanently in the blinded position with only one arm. I never thought of it but does the Meteor come with a holster? Doubt it. Amazing light though. Still quite content with the little ZL HI and the big bang new L6.


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## mhanlen (Jul 20, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> to afraid Ill mess something up on the Meteor and it well explode with the force of a grenade in my hand all that will be left of me will be a corpse that permanently in the blinded position with only one arm. I never thought of it but does the Meteor come with a holster? Doubt it. Amazing light though. Still quite content with the little ZL HI and the big bang new L6.





I got the L6 too... awesome light! Yes the Meteor comes standard with a short fat holster.


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