# Need a custom (small) piece made out of Aluminum



## bstrickler (Jul 23, 2009)

I broke the foregrip ring on my airsoft gun (handguard is metal, so IMO, the grip ring should've been metal, too, since it had a fair bit of pressure on it.). I tried epoxying it, and I tried using my mill, but the damn thing is a piece of and the base piece (pardon my lack of knowledge in that area) kept moving around, even though I had used its metal clamp things.

Anyways, I tried using epoxy to fix it, but that worked for a whole 5 seconds before it snapped again. I was looking at casting one, but I don't have the time right now to put the stuff together. 

I just need some estimates on what some of you machinists would charge for 1-2 of these. I live in AZ,USA, if that helps any, regarding postage.

Here's a pic, with all the dimensions for it. If the pics break the rules/limits, let me know. I will fix them.

1.7" OD
0.6" ID
0.12" Thick outer wall
0.1" Thick base wall
0.21" thick nubs on either side, 0.31" wide
0.7" total thickness


Sorry for not being better quality. I can't find the memory card for my camera, so I had to use my cellphone.













~Brian


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## gadget_lover (Jul 23, 2009)

I'm not offering. I am always too busy and tend to flake out on these projects. Then I feel bad. I will, however, pose some questions that may help someone else decide to help you.

Are the nubs undercut?

Would you be adding the finishing touches like the extra little holes that we see here and there?

Is the current part a tight fit or does it barely hold on? Does the outside have to fit into a recess of any kind?

The top lip is beveled. Is that necessary to the design?

Although that looks like a simple part, the nubs mean that you can't turn it on a lathe and the inside curves require special setups (rotary table, for one thing).

Expect (at the very least) that you will need to send this part to whomever will work on it. It might help to have the gun to test fit it too.


Good luck

Daniel


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## wquiles (Jul 23, 2009)

Like Gadget I am not offering, since I am still working through my waiting list of projects for several forum members, but here is how I see this done with both the lathe and mill, assuming an Al part (6061):

- cut a suitable piece of AL to about 3 inches or so
- on lathe - get OD to size
- drill/bore the inner hole 
- bore to the second diameter on top of those two nobs
- take the piece to the mill and the RT, and mill the area around those two nobs
- come back to the lathe, part off the piece
- by hand, file the two notches and the small notch in the inside

Counting setup time (probably the most time consuming part on the mill), this could easily take 2-3 hours to make. I charge approximately at appox. $40/hour, you are easily looking at $100 or more for somebody to make a part like this from scratch.

Will


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## KC2IXE (Jul 23, 2009)

I'm not offering either - that's NOT an easy part to make because of those nubs - You know why that part is plastic and not metal? To get the sharp corner where those nubs meet the outside will either take "interesting" hand work, fabricating the final assembly out of 3 pieces of aluminum (probably easiest) or sinker EDM. Yet, making a mold for casting it would not be that big a job (based upon what I'm seeing) - say maybe the same amount of work as say making 10-15 of the parts. (inside vs outside cutting)


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## bstrickler (Jul 23, 2009)

Ouch..

I really appreciate the input guys 

I think I'll wait until I have the time to make the forge for casting (I could almost buy 1/2 the gun at the price wquiles estimated), or figure something else out.


If the nubs are the biggest pain in the rear, I could probably end up having the person skip on putting those in, then I could just make some out of scrap aluminum, and file them down to size, and epoxy it in, if that'd save a lot of hassle.

Also, I would be able to cut out that key-slot in the middle on the top part with a file or something, so you wouldn't have to worry about it.

Btw, the OD can be bigger than 1.6" if needed, and even unfinished. I'm not worried about looks, only functionality

As to what gadget_lover was asking, 

Are the nubs undercut? 
I'm not 100% sure what you mean by undercut

Would you be adding the finishing touches like the extra little holes that we see here and there?
Yes, I would be, to save hassle on the makers side. I would also be cutting out those square-ish chunks on the bottom (easily done with a jewelers saw)

Is the current part a tight fit or does it barely hold on? Does the outside have to fit into a recess of any kind?
It was a semi-loose fit, to allow the rail to go in easily, and slide off the barrel easily.

The top lip is beveled. Is that necessary to the design?
No, it's not. I think they did that just to make it look "pretty"

KC2IXE,


The maker could have gone a different route, and machined the end of the foregrip to use the foregrip ring from an actual M4. (I would think) That would have saved them time/money than making/buying the machinery to make the plastic ones, as it only cost me $5 to get the ring for an actual M4 (I figured it wouldn't hurt to see the difference, and if I could modify the real one to work). Or they could have bought a press that churned out the steel rings for the M4 (it's only like .025"-.030" thick plate steel).

~Brian


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## Tekno_Cowboy (Jul 23, 2009)

If you don't need the nubs or finishing done, just a fancy washer with a lip, I can make that for you. How's $20 shipped, $15 if you send me a 3" length of 2" round bar sound?


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## will (Jul 23, 2009)

Is the gun manufacturer still in business? I have had some success over the years getting small parts directly from the manufacturer. Can you try to contact them and send them a picture of the part you need? 

Second option - can you pick up a broken gun and use the part from that - buy a gun for spare parts.

here is a place that sells parts

http://www.airsoftbattlezone.com/internalairsoftgunparts.html


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## gadget_lover (Jul 23, 2009)

By undercut, I mean is there a gap under the nub? Is that how it locks onto something?

I was thinking that the nubs could be undercut using a slitting saw since theres a hole in the middle that the arbor can protrude through if needed.

In some cases, one could simply drill through from the other side with an end mill to provide the gap. You'd end up with an extra cutout but that would not effect the usability.

Daniel


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## bstrickler (Jul 24, 2009)

gadget_lover said:


> By undercut, I mean is there a gap under the nub? Is that how it locks onto something?
> 
> I was thinking that the nubs could be undercut using a slitting saw since theres a hole in the middle that the arbor can protrude through if needed.
> 
> ...



Oh! Now I understand. No, it doesn't have an undercut. It just uses compression to keep it on.




will said:


> Is the gun manufacturer still in business? I have had some success over the years getting small parts directly from the manufacturer. Can you try to contact them and send them a picture of the part you need?
> 
> Second option - can you pick up a broken gun and use the part form that - buy a gun for spare parts.
> 
> ...




THANK YOU!!!!! I was able to find the replacement piece! Although I had to go to a different website (I'm definitely bookmarking the site you gave me, though), I found the original plastic one for $5, and also a "steel" one for $9. I'm gonna buy the steel one, and see how that works out. It looks like it has the same dimensions, so I hope it works!

I just wish I had bought a P90 instead. Fewer parts to mess up. Only problem is that you can't really add much to it 



Tekno_Cowboy said:


> If you don't need the nubs or finishing done, just a fancy washer with a lip, I can make that for you. How's $20 shipped, $15 if you send me a 3" length of 2" round bar sound?



If I can't get the foregrip ring I'm gonna purchase, to work, I'll definitely pay you $20 to make it. 

~Brian

P.S. Thanks again for your help, everyone! It is much appreciated!


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