# Maglight refurbishing service?



## Grakken (Jun 21, 2017)

Does anyone know of a place that will take a maglight and clean/rebuild/refurbish it? Does Maglight industries do that? I have an older 6 cell ican with corroded insides and I can't even unscrew the retaining screw in the switch assembly. Or is it one of those things where it's just not worth it?


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## Ishango (Jun 21, 2017)

It's completely up to you if you want to spend that kind of money. I don't know of any of these services, but you could always contact Maglite directly. Or perhaps there is someone on here that would like to help you out. Does it have any sentimental value?


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## irongate (Jun 21, 2017)

Soak in vinegar first really good. Outside soap and water and a toothbrush. We have a mag light topic section here with a wealth of knowledge


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## bykfixer (Jun 21, 2017)

Maybe Liftd4R while chime in and share a tip or two. He has refurbished some bad off Maglites along the way. 

I'll say this though, if parts are needed z-battery is a good source for new switches and such. I think he has had to destroy a switch assembly at some point and replaced it with a new one.


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## Alone In The Dark (Jun 21, 2017)

Grakken said:


> Does anyone know of a place that will take a maglight and clean/rebuild/refurbish it? Does Maglight industries do that? I have an older 6 cell ican with corroded insides and I can't even unscrew the retaining screw in the switch assembly. Or is it one of those things where it's just not worth it?



Oh, it is definitely worth it.


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## alpg88 (Jun 21, 2017)

yea, defiantly not worth it, unless the light has some sentimental value, new 6d can be bought for 30-40 bucks


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## Grakken (Jun 21, 2017)

Yeah, it's a tough call, no real sentimental value, but they're such nice, hefty pieces, it seems a shame to just throw it away. I'm torn between spending time to get it up and running again and just buying a nice new one on amazon. 
I pumped a lot of Liquid Wrench into the hole where the screw lies but after a day, still no luck. I may just get medieval on its rear end and drill out the recalcitrant switch assembly. I thought about soaking it in vinegar, maybe I'll do that first actually.


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## aginthelaw (Jun 21, 2017)

If it was Duracell batteries that leaked and you can get some info off of them, they'll send a check to cover the cost of a new one


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## LiftdT4R (Jun 21, 2017)

Hey, sorry I missed this thread, I've been super busy at work lately. I've never run into a Maglite I couldn't fix. That being said, ohh my gosh, they can certainly can take up a lot of time. I did a 2D 1980 light that was bent with a stuck battery and I had about 20 hours total into it.

Did you say the retaining ring is stuck in the front up by the switch? If so you're in for a ton of work if it's the aluminum style retaining ring. I've fixed them before but it's literally hours of dremelling.

At the end of the day the cost in parts is going to be the same price as a new light so unless it's super rare or as the other posters said it has some sentimental value to you it's probably not going to be worth it.

Do you know what the serial number is? I can give you an approximate date on the light and the rarity. If the serial number is below 100,000 or so or it's red, blue or silver, don't toss it!! It's rare!!!! If it has the retaining ring it's a no-letter serial from before 1992 and if it has the aluminum retaining ring it's before 1990.

Maglite did away with service centers 2 years ago so you're only choice is to send a light back to them now and pay postage both ways but since it has battery corrosion they won't touch it. I have done restorations but I'm not aware of anyone else doing them right now. I don't take payment though I just do it for other collectors for the cost of parts and good leads on rare lights. It takes me forever to do a light though because I have a huge queue of Kel-Lites and Maglites plus a puppy and work so I'm not exactly quick.


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## Grakken (Jun 22, 2017)

Ok, so if I understand you correctly, I believe this light has the aluminum retaining ring. I am attaching two pictures. The serial number is 50213822.
Yeah it was definitely corrosion so I guess Maglite won't do anything?

Here is the retaining ring, right?




[/IMG]


Here is the switch with the wrench that will not budge 




[/IMG]


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## LiftdT4R (Jun 22, 2017)

That is the aluminum style retaining ring. The light is like from around 1985 and unless it has sentimental value to you it's not a rare light and it's probably going to be cheaper/easier to buy a new one.

Did you try using the actual Maglite tool to get it apart or just needle nose pliers? You may have marginally more success with the Maglite tool shown below but if it won't budge with needle nose pliers it's likely buggered up with alkaline. The tool is blue, in the middle and part # 112-000-001. Don't forget righty tighty, lefty loosey when turning.






If that doesn't work your only option is to dremel it out. Pretty much what I do is pick two spots directly opposite from each other and using a dremel I'll take the retaining ring down until I'm almost right to the threads. Then I'll us e a punch and bend and break the retaining ring out. It should look like below when done. It's a ton of effort though and you have to be super careful not to damage the threads when you're doing it.






Once apart it's just a matter of soaking it in vinegar, while changing out the old vinegar for new vinegar every few days for a week. Maybe longer. Then trying to drive the batteries out of the light. Make sure you place the light on wood when you drive the batteries out so you don't mushroom the end.


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## Grakken (Jun 22, 2017)

Ok this is good info, thanks LifdTR4. Actually, I haven't tried that part yet and the batteries are already out. I was stuck with the retaining screw of the light assembly. It won't unscrew. I'm wondering if soaking it in vinegar will help.


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## SoCalTiger (Jun 22, 2017)

You can contact Maglite Industries at their HQ in Ontario, CA. However, they will most likely give you similar advice to replace it. They have a "trade-in" program where if you send them your old light, they will sell you a brand new one for 50% off MSRP. Please note, however, that I compared the Maglite "trade-in" price to Amazon and the difference was only about $5-10. I asked about the ML300LX (3 cell) and it was $37 (50% off $75 MSRP). On Amazon is it $42 so you are only saving $5.

So, if you are paying to ship the old one to them, you are probably already at a wash if not a loss compared to just buying from Amazon.


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## Grakken (Jun 22, 2017)

That's good to know about the trade-in program but then your math checks out too. It's funny, I was thinking about the same pathway to an ML300LX, so yeah, you're right, just a washout, not really worth it.


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## LiftdT4R (Jun 22, 2017)

Grakken said:


> Ok this is good info, thanks LifdTR4. Actually, I haven't tried that part yet and the batteries are already out. I was stuck with the retaining screw of the light assembly. It won't unscrew. I'm wondering if soaking it in vinegar will help.



You got it! The soaking might help but it hasn't for me in the past. If you do soak it try to remove the plastic switch assembly first. There are many steel pieces in there which will corrode to high heaven after soaked in vinegar and they'll be ruined. If you loosen the allen head screw that goes through the switch button and remove the small hex head bolt that goes through the switch post and bulb housing the whole switch should slide out of the back of the light even if the retaining ring is in place. You'll need needle nos pliers to remove the allen head bolt from the bulb housing because a allen key won't get down in there between the barrel. Of course if there's a lot of corrosion or alkaline in the barrel that may not happen and you may end up breaking the switch or have it come out in pieces.

You're not near NJ or PA are ya? If so lemme know.


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## Grakken (Jun 22, 2017)

Hey LiftdT4R, actually I'm in Texas. But you know what? I think you could probably use this more than I and use it for parts for other builds or repairs if you're interested. I'll PM you.


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## LiftdT4R (Jun 22, 2017)

Grakken said:


> Hey LiftdT4R, actually I'm in Texas. But you know what? I think you could probably use this more than I and use it for parts for other builds or repairs if you're interested. I'll PM you.



Awesome, thanks!! I just picked up an original Maglite service kit with the much nicer aluminum spanner tool. If it's an easy fix I'll ship it back to you on my work's dime. If not I'll add it to my stockpile of restoration lights.


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## swampgator (Jun 25, 2017)

I've refurbished a few Mags over the years. 
Never a 6D but I have saved a few 2 & 3Cs and 3Ds. 
I've got a 3D I'm working on now, off and on. Going to probably end up drilling out the switch assembly in its entirety. It's strictly for fun. I don't really need another 3D.
As others have said, if no sentimental value, toss it and buy a new one. 
One the other hand, if it is sentimental (one of mine being Dad's last battery fed patrol light before the PD switched to rechargeables) or you have time and want a project, go for it!


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## LiftdT4R (Jun 25, 2017)

swampgator said:


> I've refurbished a few Mags over the years.
> Never a 6D but I have saved a few 2 & 3Cs and 3Ds.
> I've got a 3D I'm working on now, off and on. Going to probably end up drilling out the switch assembly in its entirety. It's strictly for fun. I don't really need another 3D.
> As others have said, if no sentimental value, toss it and buy a new one.
> One the other hand, if it is sentimental (one of mine being Dad's last battery fed patrol light before the PD switched to rechargeables) or you have time and want a project, go for it!



Let's see some pics of that resto!! Is it the older style aluminum retaining ring switch? Those can be a pain!

I'll post up some pics of the resto on this one when I get to it. I've got a few other lights I'm working on but I'll get to this one in short order.


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## swampgator (Jun 27, 2017)

LiftdT4R said:


> Let's see some pics of that resto!! Is it the older style aluminum retaining ring switch? Those can be a pain!
> 
> I'll post up some pics of the resto on this one when I get to it. I've got a few other lights I'm working on but I'll get to this one in short order.



You know, having been a member here for over a decade, I've never posted a photo....lol

I'm home for a week starting Monday. I'll see what I can do..

None of the D cells have the aluminum retaining ring. Although one of the 2C lights did.


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## bykfixer (Jun 27, 2017)

I just sent Lift'd a Mag for parts, but I'm thinking he'll probably get it working again. As a bonus I included an old Pro-Light with some alkaleak that'll be a challenge but I know he is up for the task. I saw what he did with a Vari-Beam I decided was too much work. Turned out nice n bright.


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## LiftdT4R (Jun 27, 2017)

I got this light yesterday and sent Grakken a PM. Ohh my gosh it is going to be a lot of work. The retaining ring is stuck as well as the negative screw in the switch which means the whole switch can not be salvaged and it's about 4 hours worth or work plus soaking. This light looks like all the batteries corroded in it. Also, it's a 5D. I may not restore it only because it's not very rare and I have a bunch of other lights to do. 

But..... I have no plans for this weekend and I'm off Monday so it's a 4 day weekend. I'll probably at least try to liberate the switch then and post some pics. I think I have an easier method than using the dremel to grind away the retaining ring.


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## Grakken (Jun 27, 2017)

It's only a 5 cell? Man, it's so big I could have sworn it was the 6 cell version. Anyway, if it's interesting as a case study please post pics but don't waste any time on it if you don't think it's worth it. Feel free to cannibalize it for parts for your other projects.


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## alpg88 (Jun 28, 2017)

LiftdT4R said:


> The retaining ring is stuck as well as the negative screw in the switch which means the whole switch can not be salvaged and it's about 4 hours worth or work plus soaking. .



just take a big bit and drill right thru the switch, than hammer it out.


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## swampgator (Jun 28, 2017)

alpg88 said:


> just take a big bit and drill right thru the switch, than hammer it out.


That's what it going to happen on my current project..


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## LiftdT4R (Jul 4, 2017)

alpg88 said:


> just take a big bit and drill right thru the switch, than hammer it out.



Right, but how about the aluminum retaining ring? Hammering that out will destroy the light.

So.... here's what I came up with. In the past I've used a dremel but this method proved far easier. I had the retaining ring out in 10 minutes.

What I'll do is take a 5/32 drill bit and drill out the small indents that are made for the spanner tool. Be sure to hold the drill straight up and down. The object is to drill as close to the threads as possible without actually touching them.Once through I'll drill another hole close to the inner diameter of the retaining ring to effectively split the retaining ring in two. When done correctly it should look like the picture below.







Once there is little material remaining a brass punch can be used to break the retaining ring away from the threads. Be sure to set the light on a wooden surface so it is not damaged during the removal. I set the brass punch as far away from the threads as I can as the object is to bend the retaining ring and split it where it was ground down so it will pull away from the threads. Shown below is what the ring looks like after broken and removed. You can see how little material is left that had to break at the outside edge.






I have a bunch of newer style switches with the plastic retaining ring so I'll be installing one of those soon. Most folks probably don't have to worry about a retaining ring that's stuck. You could always leave it in place and try to insert the new switch through the back of the light. If there is heavy corrosion in the barrel through this may be difficult and you might end up damaging the switch. It's always easier to remove the switch through the front of the barrel.

Grakken, I'll be sending this light back to you in a couple of weeks. I've been working on it a little bit here and there and should have it up and running soon.


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## LiftdT4R (Jul 4, 2017)

Also, here's a pic of the drilled out switch. You can see how much corrosion is on the the screw that makes contact with the body. This is what wouldn't allow it to turn.


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## Grakken (Jul 4, 2017)

Haha wow, looks horrific, very interesting LiftdT4R, you're amazing. I meant for you to have the light for parts but if you restore it I'm going to send you some funds for this work. I'll pm you.


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## archimedes (Jul 4, 2017)

Threads like this remind me why CPF is my favorite forum ...
lovecpf


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## LiftdT4R (Jul 4, 2017)

Grakken said:


> Haha wow, looks horrific, very interesting LiftdT4R, you're amazing. I meant for you to have the light for parts but if you restore it I'm going to send you some funds for this work. I'll pm you.



Another collector gifted/donated me a bunch of Maglite parts including switches, seals, etc. so I have maybe an hour into it and no parts costs. The drilling made getting the retaining ring so much easier to get out vs. using the dremel. Just keep me in mind if ya know someone with a rare Mag they're looking to sell. I've been looking for a 7D for a few years now with no luck. :-(

Have a great 4th!!


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## LiftdT4R (Jul 12, 2017)

Alright, I didn't forget about ya. I've been soaking the light for the last week to remove all the alkaline corrosion. Well.... she's all done. Here's all the parts getting ready to put it back together. The reflector lost most of it's chrome so I put in a slightly used one that I pulled out of my 3D when I converted it to an aluminum camless reflector for my Malkoff upgrade. The new switch has the plastic retaining ring so if a battery corrodes it will be easily removable (All Maglite owners should try their best not to leave their lights with batteries in them for a long time unless they're lithium or rechargables.) Gotta love the Lubri-film too. I put this on all the threads and seals for extra waterproofness and because it makes operation of the light buttery smooth.






And she's all back together.






Lookin' good in the neighborhood. But does she work?






Ohh yeah!






I'm going to use this light over the next couple of days at work and over the weekend just to make sure I got all of the corrosion out and that it's all working just fine and I'll be sending it back to you next week. I had to replace the reflector, switch, and spring but all the seals and threads look good. Most of the parts I got for free. The longest art was soaking and scrubbing out all of the corrosion. The retaining ring came out surprisingly easy by drilling it. 10x faster than using the dremel like I have in the past.

Happy St. Incand's guys!!


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## Grakken (Jul 12, 2017)

Wow, that's fantastic. You're a star LiftdT4R. I can't wait to check it out in person, what a transformation. I'm going to compensate you somehow.


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## bykfixer (Jul 14, 2017)

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-How-to-re-assemble-pre-2001-C-Maglite-switch
Here's a thread I used today to solve a flickering when twisting the head of a 2C dilema. Post 5 still has pix and post 8 has a great description.

I removed the swich assembly and "boy-yoy-yoy-yoyng" parts went a flying as the assembly self destructed...
Hope it helps somebody else too.

Basically during the removal of the switch a bir on the opposite side of the switch dug a groove in the body as the assembly was being popped out. 
(I later learned this evening that it's the 5/64th's or Torx set screw that I had not loosened. Doh!) 
That screwed up the threads the retaining ring needs later. I took a small precision screwdriver and scraped the high spots off the threads. Then without the switch installed yet screwed the retaining ring in and out several times to get the threads normal again. 

To aid I used a silicone grease as a lube (and alkaleak bond preventer later) then a pair of poultry shears acted as a "bung" of sorts.
(footnote: a bung is a round wedge used to plug leaks in boats or old wooden keg filler hole plugs) By using a bung it added grip to the inside of the retaining ring when grip was needed to get past bad spots in the threads. After tightening/loosening several times the threads were like new and once the switch assembly was installed the ring screwed down easily. Oh and I dremel'd off that little bir on the rear of the assembly. (The retainer screw 'spike')

I used a couple of dabs of E6000 glue to hold the halves of the assembly together after reassembling the switch assembly. A temporary adhesive that will prevent parts-a-flying in the event the assembly has to be removed and repaired again. 

The wife has a friend who heard I'm a flashlight nut and she owns 2 Mags that wouldn't light. It turns out they both needed bulbs. I stuck a modern bi-pin 3 cell in her 3D and a nice WhiteStar in the 2C. An elderly lady whose husband recently passed and he kept those old lights from the 90's looking and working like new. So when the 2C flickered or turned off when changing beam shape I had to solve that... just had to. 

Turns out the contact strip between the switch and bulb fastener was dirty in spots and when the bulb assembly moved up or down contact was broken. (Mag reccomended buying a new asssembly or send the light to them so the lady asked my wife if I'd fix it.)

I donated a new poly ultraclear lens, a button cover and gave it a good cleaning/lube. The wife was instructed to tell the lady I owe her $10 for letting me disect her flashlight in my lab all afternoon.... and it was fun learning how disassemble/reassemble a 2C Maglite as that was the first time I had worked on their switch assembly. What took hours will take minutes next time...

Here's another basic how to thread. How to disassemble a Maglite D cell. 
https://www.takeitapart.com/guide/50
This helped me get a stuck battery out tonight and get my 80's 2D going. 




Shown glowing with the formerly stuck Enercell

A few good whacks to a 3/8" x 8" long ratchet extension with a deep well (6pt) 19mm socket to the battery that was in upside down ⊙▁⊙ got that sucker out quickly. 





I soaked the barrel in warm water a few minutes and scraped off high spots of alkaleak gel from the wall. Then a paste of Bar Keepers Friend (an ajax type powder that is a mild acid I use to get baked on brake dust off alluminum wheels) was rubbed on in circular motions with a toothbrush clamped to vice grips and the walls were soon smooth as new (minus the anodizing at those areas. 

I placed silicone grease on the retainer screw and the set screw as bond inhibitors just in case. (Learned that from bicycle seat posts and pedals.) Then I dremel'd a slight groove on the inside of the retainer ring so it would easily pass over that brass screw on the sliding bulb fastener. 

I considered re-hab-ing the switch assembly but decided not to... not tonight anyway. Then I used my handy-dandy home made spanner wrench via two precision screwdrivers clamped to a needle nose vise grip at the proper spacing. 
Later I will cut about 1/3 of a coil off of the spring so it won't be so dam hard to put the tailcap back on. Maybe 2/3 total... 

Some ano is gone on the outside thanks to alkaleak-age but that was a boon. It spilled onto the outside instead of crawling all over the inside. None had reached the between the switch assembly housing and the inside wall of the barrel. That was a stroke of luck there. 

Note: My switch assembly csme out of the bulb end of the light.


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## bykfixer (Jul 19, 2017)

For those who want to repair their Maglite from the 80's forward, knowing their neighbors, friends and relatives have learned you can fix their Maglite...




Maglite refurbishing kit ASXX124

Comes with o-rings (for old and new; read on barrel or inside head), switch covers (cat and plain), switch assemblies (w/tools for old and new) reflectors, lenses and a spanner tool for your incan C and D sized relics. No springs though. 





Prices vary, but can be found for about $45 and up with or without shipping cost. 
Mine was $46 with 2 day shipped. Bought it Saturday evening, had it Tuesday.


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## LiftdT4R (Jul 19, 2017)

Where did ya get the kit from? I didn't know Mag had a new one out. $46 is a little steep, there's a few old service centers clearing out stuff on fleabay. A lot of this you can get from Maglite for free too with some effort. Seals and o-rings they'll usually send you for free if you legitimately need them and had them fail or wear out on a light. They won't send reflectors, switches, lenses and stuff like that though but there's better lenses and reflectors for sale elsewhere.

I've been using your 5D and it works great!! I've been working super long hours this week but I'm off Friday and I have a small fishing trip in the morning so I'll get it out in the afternoon.


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## Grakken (Jul 19, 2017)

Awesome, thanks LiftdT4R!


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## bykfixer (Jul 20, 2017)

I did not mention it's like 9 each of some stuff, 6 of others and such. 





I thought it a nice price for a lifetime supply of repair parts. And no "welp my switch broke, let me see if Mag will send me one" or "dratz my switch cover just split, maybe freeBay will get me one in a few days"...


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## LiftdT4R (Jul 20, 2017)

Neat-o. If you got 3 old D switches and 3 new D switches you didn't do half bad because they are $8 a piece so you have $48 right there. Is this whole kit a standard Mag order or was it something someone made up or had leftover from an old service center?


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## bykfixer (Jul 20, 2017)

LiftdT4R said:


> Neat-o. If you got 3 old D switches and 3 new D switches you didn't do half bad because they are $8 a piece so you have $48 right there. Is this whole kit a standard Mag order or was it something someone made up or had leftover from an old service center?



The panther logo on the packing tape caused me to think it's a Mag kit that was sold to service centers at one point.


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## lumen aeternum (Jul 24, 2017)

Do the lights from the last 10 years or so have a different retaining ring? I swear mine does not have a nice bit 1/8" hole in it for a spanner wrench, just slots.


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## bykfixer (Jul 24, 2017)

No more retainer ring. 

They were made to remove the switch from the tailcap end but stuck batteries made that difficult so removing the retainer ring was a blessing. 

That new thingy that acts as a retainer can pop out and back in if need be. Right angle'd needle nose pliers and patience will get it out. Grab it with your right angle'd needle nose on each side (one side at a time) and pull inwards and up. When both sides are above the slot it should slide on out.


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## LiftdT4R (Jul 24, 2017)

The 3 D cell switches Maglite has used on Incan lights are shown below. The aluminum ring switch was used from 1979 to 1989, the plastic ring switch was used from 1990 to 1991 and is the only replacement switch currently available for non-letters serial lights, the retaining clip switch on the right is the current one and has been used since 1992. The clip is shown removed but it's a little difficult to get out and under most circumstances doesn't need to be removed.







C Cell switches are similar except there was never a plastic retaining switch and the changeover from the ring to clip happened in 2003 when the lights added a letter to the serial.

Do you have a pic of the switch is question? I mainly have Incans but the LEDs I've seen use a retaining clip switch also.

Also, Grakken, sorry for the delay, I got super busy over the weekend but I am heading to the post office to send out your light as we speak. I'll send you the tracking number via PM. Everything came out great but the end cap had a lot of corrosion. It worked fine for me but you may have to play with it a little when you get it if any new corrosion popped up on it.


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## Grakken (Jul 24, 2017)

Interesting stuff. 
Ok, thanks LiftdT4R


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## Grakken (Jul 27, 2017)

I got my Maglight back from LiftdT4R and it's great! He did a fantastic job, it's super smooth, all greased up in the right places and works like a charm. He obviously knows what he is doing and I appreciate the rebuild. I'm glad to have this old flash light back in action. Thanks LiftdT4R, there's no way I could have done this the way you did!


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## LiftdT4R (Jul 31, 2017)

Hey, thanks for the kind words and the $$$. You didn't have to send anything, I really enjoy messing with these lights. I will put it towards beer though so it's much appreciated. Enjoy the light and remember to leave the batteries out if you're storing it.


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## Rminnium (Feb 2, 2018)

I am in South Jersey. I have 3 cell I got at Goodwill, replaced bulb and new batteries. It still does not work. Can you take a look at it?


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## LiftdT4R (Feb 2, 2018)

Absolutely! I see you just joined so I can't send you a PM, please feel free to e-mail me at [email protected].


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## novice (Feb 3, 2018)

If anyone is interested, here are some photos of the most recent switch, disassembled (scroll down to post# 164):

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?275264-new-set-screw-tool-for-Mag-D-switch/page6


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