# Mac's Custom SST-50 EDC Custom Light Clones in Stainless Steel



## ma_sha1 (Nov 3, 2009)

*Mac's Custom SST-50 EDC Host DIY* I Like the look of Mac's custom EDC host used in his recent SST-50 run here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=242182
so I made up a DIY clone myself using simple tools, hope Mac doesn't mind 

Right now it's just a host, when I have some time, I'll finish it up in the next few days. 
Here are some quick snap shots using my P&S camera, pardon me for the poor photos.


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## griff (Nov 3, 2009)

*Re: Mac's Custom SST-50 EDC Host DIY*

Cool!
let's see what you can do !


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## jasonsmaglites (Nov 3, 2009)

*Re: Mac's Custom SST-50 EDC Host DIY*

cool, but do one with an 18650 and im in!


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## Hill (Nov 3, 2009)

*Re: Mac's Custom SST-50 EDC Host DIY*

How 'bout a pictorial? Or at least some hint of how you pulled it off?

Nice custom job!

Hill


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## ma_sha1 (Nov 3, 2009)

*Re: Mac's Custom SST-50 EDC Host DIY*

OK, Hint #1, it's stainless steel.


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## icaruz (Nov 4, 2009)

*Re: Mac's Custom SST-50 EDC Host DIY*

This must be one of your Ultrafire C3 SS...
Care to share some know how..i have a few of this too..tail cap conversion, emitter swap and so on..


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## ma_sha1 (Nov 4, 2009)

*Re: Mac's Custom SST-50 EDC Host DIY*

Good job, I didn't expect being busted so quick 

I'll post some photos on the steps later. 
This is now a CR2 sized clicky, less than 3" long. 
Running on AW 14250 or 14270 Li-ion.

I don't think it'll make sense to put in SST-50. 
I have other mods with SSR-90 & SRR-50 runing on C li-ion, 
they are battery hogs.

I think the maximum upgrade that make sense would be XPG R5 direct drive, 
which should be >300 lumens, given these small LI-ion 300/310mAH capacity, we are talking about 20min run time.


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## ma_sha1 (Nov 4, 2009)

*Re: Mac's Custom SST-50 EDC Host DIY*

First, a SS family photo next to Quark 123 Ti.
The Mac Custom clone is achieved by simply cutting down that tail end of Ultrafire C3 SS.






This photo shows that you also need to grind down the threads on teh battery tube close to the o-ring. The remaining tail cap end has only 
1/5 inch but has just enough thread to allow the retaining ring to screw
back-on. The retaining ring will hold the switch in place.


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## ma_sha1 (Nov 6, 2009)

*Re: Mac's Custom SST-50 EDC Host DIY Stainless*

Finally finished this mod, some beam shots to close-up the thread.

I put the trimmed stock switch back-in with a yellow switch cover to match-up the copper ring.






Both are running on stock 5 mode driver. 
Right: Mac clone on 14250 li-ion 
Left: Stock Ultrafire C3 on 1.7V Enegizer Li AA.





Reduced Exposure by one:





Reduced exposure by 2.
Mac clone wins:twothumbs


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## ma_sha1 (Dec 19, 2009)

*Re: Mac's Custom SST-50 EDC Custom Light Clone in Stainless Steel*

I still love the look of this light & the toughness of Stainless Steel,
then I noticed that Mac's custom light now has a Clip option.

I figure that I need to make a clone with a clip too:devil:

The clip is Quark Ti AA removable Clip, which is SS, that why
the TI Quark so easy to get scratched up. 

I grind down the area just below the tail cap area & installed the clip,
then cut down the light to make it into another Mac Clone. 

Interestingly, the new C3 SS has a fatter battery tube & I was able to fit in a real RCR2 (15266) in there, which gives higher mah than 14250. 

From left to Right:

C3 SS 14250 Twisty; C3 SS 14250 Mac Clone; Mac Clone with SS Clip; Stock C2 SS (AA).


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## Techjunkie (Jan 21, 2010)

*Re: Mac's Custom SST-50 EDC Custom Light Clone in Stainless Steel*

I really like what you've done here, and I want to duplicate it. Which DX sku C3 fits the 15266 battery, is it 26122? Also, does a 16mm driver board fit? Thanks!



ma_sha1 said:


> Interestingly, the new C3 SS has a fatter battery tube & I was able to fit in a real RCR2 (15266) in there, which gives higher mah than 14250.
> 
> From left to Right:
> 
> C3 SS 14250 Twisty; C3 SS 14250 Mac Clone; Mac Clone with SS Clip; Stock C2 SS (AA).


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## moviles (Jan 21, 2010)

nice mods

the uf c3 ss in your picture its the large version (98mm not 93)







I received one of these 98mm c3 ss (the 93mm version its much better )and i received it with ez600 chip


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## Techjunkie (Jan 21, 2010)

moviles said:


> nice mods
> 
> the uf c3 ss in your picture its the large version (98mm not 93)
> 
> ...


 
DX has three stainless UF C3's, a five mode 93mm for ~$14, a single mode 94mm+ for ~$19 and an older five mode P4 94mm for >$20. I've just ordered the shortest, cheapest one. Is that the one with the fatter battery tube that fits the CR2? It looks like the shorter one is fatter in the pic.

Also, what's the best way to cut SS? Based on the tools I have on hand, I'm considering either using a dremel with a cutoff disc or possibly putting it in a vise and using a reciprocating saw with metal blade. Either cut is going to be uneven and require filing afterward, which I expect to be a real pain with SS. I wish I had a lathe for this kind of work.


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 21, 2010)

Techjunkie said:


> DX has three stainless UF C3's, a five mode 93mm for ~$14, a single mode 94mm+ for ~$19 and an older five mode P4 94mm for >$20. I've just ordered the shortest, cheapest one. Is that the one with the fatter battery tube that fits the CR2? It looks like the shorter one is fatter in the pic.



I have ordered total of 4 C3, they are all the $14 version. But I got different lights. The first two were smaller, only fit 14250. The second two are larger (by a few mm only) but fit CR2. At first, I didn't like the second version seems not as finely machined (The smaller one has superb workmanship, extremely well build) but after I found it fit real CR2 & After I put on the Ti clip, I really love it now, looks so cool, clip for deep pocket carry & with longer run time. So yes, I believe you'll be getting the CR2 version.



Techjunkie said:


> Also, what's the best way to cut SS?



My way is not the best way , that why I never posted it. I use table saw, the only tool I have that could cut it. Then grind it with grinding wheel. It's scarry, one of my collagues got his hand cut off by table saw & had to get to emergency room, they reconnected it back. Every time I turn the saw on, I think of that poor guy. 

That's why I am not going crazy & making more of these SS lights, even thou, the SS CR2 Clicky with Ti Quark clip is one of my fav. of all time among all the different lights I made. I am lucky I still have all my fingers,
you can see my table saw here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/229455


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## Techjunkie (Jan 21, 2010)

I remembered you saying that you used a table saw in an earlier post. I assumed you had a masonary blade on it or at least a fine toothed metal blade. That's a rip-cut wood blade in the pic! And you used it to cut that tiny glass lens too?! That's nuts! (I'd have used my dremel with a stone bit.) The grinder to file the SS edge flat sounds like something I'd try though. Here's hoping I get one that fits an RCR2. Too bad AW doesn't sell the protected P-RCR2 anymore.

That reminds me, DX has 3.0V RCR2 very cheap. Do you know how well the included driver boosts from 3.0V input? I have 14500 LiFePO4 I can try it out with first, but if I have to replace the driver with a better boost driver to use 3V batteries, will the C3 fit a 17mm board? The outside diameter is 20mm+, so I'm hoping the answer is yes.

Last but not least, the DX pics show course threads, but some of the owner submiitted pics show fine threads. Which do you have? I'm thinking that might be crucial when leaving very little thread to grab at the cut down tube & tailcap.


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## moviles (Jan 22, 2010)

ma_sha1 said:


> I have ordered total of 4 C3, they are all the $14 version. But I got different lights. The first two were smaller, only fit 14250. The second two are larger (by a few mm only) but fit CR2. At first, I didn't like the second version seems not as finely machined (The smaller one has superb workmanship, extremely well build)https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/229455



I ordered 2 c3 ss (14$ / 5 modes / "q5") I got different lights too, The first one are smaller 93mm. The second are large 98mm ... and with ez600 chip the first gives 35% more light than the second

I prefer the size and the body of the smaller version


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 22, 2010)

Techjunkie said:


> I remembered you saying that you used a table saw in an earlier post. I assumed you had a masonary blade on it or at least a fine toothed metal blade. That's a rip-cut wood blade in the pic! And you used it to cut that tiny glass lens too?! That's nuts!



That's what I had before I bough a grinder, so I won't need that for grinding a 10mm lens anymore :laughing:




Techjunkie said:


> Do you know how well the included driver boosts from 3.0V input? I have 14500 LiFePO4 I can try it out with first, but if I have to replace the driver with a better boost driver to use 3V batteries, will the C3 fit a 17mm board? The outside diameter is 20mm+, so I'm hoping the answer is yes.



Stock driver is find, it does 1.5v to 4.2v no issues. I used Dx RCR2, works great. Don't know about 17mm board fit or not, but I don't think you need one.


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 22, 2010)

moviles said:


> I ordered 2 c3 ss (14$ / 5 modes / "q5") I got different lights too, The first one are smaller 93mm. The second are large 98mm ... and with ez600 chip the first gives 35% more light than the second
> 
> I prefer the size and the body of the smaller version



For stock light, I like the smaller one better too but the larger one (current shipments) is the one that can fit CR2 after cut-down.


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## Techjunkie (Jan 22, 2010)

ma_sha1 said:


> For stock light, I like the smaller one better too but the larger one (current shipments) is the one that can fit CR2 after cut-down.


 
Thanks for clearing that up. I couldn't tell if larger was referring to barrel ID or length.

As long as the CR2 fits, I'll be happy. I ordered an XPG R5 from KD to replace the XRE Q5 with, so I'm not concerned with which emitter it ships with.

I also ordered KD's 1000mA 17mm driver while I was at it. I like that one because it can be configured as a two-mode (High/Med) driver and I know that one definitely pushes 1A to the emitter on a single 3.0V input from primary or LiFe cell. I hope it fits and the XPG focuses well in that reflector. I'll probably just orde the 15266 cell from AW being that the DX 3V RCR2 cells aren't protected anyway. (If I'm correct, those are actually Li-Ion cells with a step-down PCB, not safe chem LiFe cells. I wouldn't know whether to use the charger in 3.0V or 3.6V mode either.)


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 22, 2010)

Techjunkie said:


> Thanks for clearing that up. I couldn't tell if larger was referring to barrel ID or length.
> 
> I'll probably just orde the 15266 cell from AW being that the DX 3V RCR2 cells aren't protected anyway. (If I'm correct, those are actually Li-Ion cells with a step-down PCB, not safe chem LiFe cells. I wouldn't know whether to use the charger in 3.0V or 3.6V mode either.)


 
Tech, you are welcome. The ID are about the same between the too, the new one is just longer & has thin wall. 

I remember (I could be wrong) read a post somewhere that the DX RCR2 is actually safe chemistry LiFePO4, no need for protection, but I can't find the link. You need to get RCR2 charger max=3.6v.


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## moviles (Jan 22, 2010)

Ma sha1,what you think? the 98mm version its older or new?

for your mods the 98mm its nice but I want another 93mm c3 ss and I don't want order another and receive the 98mm version


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 23, 2010)

The longer 98mm is the new one. don't think you'll get the shorter one anymore.


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 23, 2010)

I decided to make another clone in 18350 format, see separate post here:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/258719

.

.


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## Techjunkie (Feb 3, 2010)

I got mine today - it's the larger diameter one and the AW RCR2 that I received a few days ago slips right in no problem. Wish I had ordered two RCR2s.

It has a CREE XR-C, not an XR-E. It's no wonder that it's just as bright on on NiMH AA as on a 3.0V LiFePO4 cell, the boost circuit doesn't have nearly as much heavy lifting to do as if it were meant to drive an XR-E to 1A. CREE's spec for the XR-C sets the max forward drive current to 500mA. In other words the amount of current that the emitter would draw in direct drive from a 3.6v cell is only ~500mA. (So 500mA is all it has to push to drive the XR-C to the max, as opposed to 1000mA for an XR-E.)

I took some measurements, and there's almost enough room for a second RCR2 in there. I'd have to trim the switch just a bit (0.6mm) for a perfect fit. Now I'm thinking instead of cutting this one down, I might just use the 14mm XP-G board I had originally intended, but instead of the the 1A boost driver and a single RCR2, I can use the 16.5mm 1.2A buck driver that I ordered from KD (that'll also fit, I measured with calipers) and two RCR2s. Decisions, decisions... (I'll order a second RCR2 from AW just in case.)


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