# Lumens Factory E series bulbs



## NotRegulated (Mar 26, 2007)

Do you know of any Stateside retailer selling he Lumens Factory E series replacement bulbs?
It seems that the only place I can find them is from the manufacturer themselves. Of course there is nothing wrong with that! I know that Pacific Tactical Solutions carries their other bulbs but not the E series.


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## Flash007 (Mar 26, 2007)

Buy them directly from Lumens Factory !
Great service, and fast shipping.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Mar 26, 2007)

Flash007 said:


> Buy them directly from Lumens Factory !
> Great service, and fast shipping.


 +1


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## GeorgePaul (Mar 27, 2007)

NotRegulated said:


> I know that Pacific Tactical Solutions carries their other bulbs but not the E series.


I called PTS a couple of weeks ago and they told me that they will carry the E series bulbs starting in April. You might want to give them a call and see if they will confirm this.


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## CLHC (Mar 27, 2007)

I just ordered direct from Lumens Factory the HO-E1A (3V, 40 Lumens) High Output Lamp Assembly. Something simple for my Lego-SF.E1. I'm Also awaiting the EO-6 (6V, 200 Lumens) Extreme High Output Reflector Module for my SureFire.M2.

When PTS has in-stock the E series, then I'll go ahead and order the rechargeable LAs from them.

Enjoy!


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## GeorgePaul (Mar 27, 2007)

CHC said:


> I just ordered direct from Lumens Factory the HO-E1A (3V, 40 Lumens) High Output Lamp Assembly. Something simple for my Lego-SF.E1.


I did the exact same thing. I hope this gives my E1e some oomph.


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## Flash_Gordon (Mar 27, 2007)

I have tried a number of LF lamps. All have been excellent.

However, the most startling improvement has been the HO-E1A added to my E1E. Excellent beam quality and it gives my E2E a good run.

If you have an E1, I would get one of these lamps.

Mark


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## NotRegulated (Mar 27, 2007)

So you recommend the HO-E1A (3V, 40 Lumens) lamp? I was going to try out the EO-E1R (3.6V, 90 Lumens) lamp so I could use it in my E1 with R123 and in my E2e with one 17670.

If you have tried them both, how did the E1A (3V, 40 Lumens) work compared to the stock MN01 (3V, 15 lumens) bulb?


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## cernobila (Mar 27, 2007)

NotRegulated said:


> So you recommend the HO-E1A (3V, 40 Lumens) lamp? I was going to try out the EO-E1R (3.6V, 90 Lumens) lamp so I could use it in my E1 with R123 and in my E2e with one 17670.
> 
> If you have tried them both, how did the E1A (3V, 40 Lumens) work compared to the stock MN01 (3V, 15 lumens) bulb?



I have the EO-E1R 90 lumen lamp in my E1E with a RCR123 cell. It compares to my G2 with P60 lamp/regular cells and my other G2 with W/E 3.7V lamp/17670 cell. These three combinations are very similar in output but the run time varies.

Dont forget that the lumen rating on the L/F lamps is not the same as the rating stated by S/F for their lamps.


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## Flash007 (Mar 27, 2007)

For better brightness with only little less runtime, it's better to buy the HO-E1R (50 lumens), and runtime is about ~45 minutes with a RCR123 3,7V and ~100 minutes with 17670 cell.

Some people says that this 3,7V 50 lumens is much bright than the 3V 40 lumens. Do a search in the forum about the Lumens Factory E series bulbs. You'll see.

In addition, you have the advantage tu use rechargeable cell.


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## GeorgePaul (Mar 28, 2007)

NotRegulated said:


> If you have tried them both, how did the E1A (3V, 40 Lumens) work compared to the stock MN01 (3V, 15 lumens) bulb?


I've tried them both in my E1e. Just got the HO-E1A today. As Flash_Gordon stated, the HO-E1A is much brighter and has excellent beam quality.


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## CLHC (Mar 28, 2007)

Great to know that. I just got an email from LF stating that my order has been Airmailed. Now I'm looking forward to seeing it with my own eyes!


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## leukos (Mar 28, 2007)

LF lamps are a good replacement for SF lamps. I have several of the HO-E1R lamps and all of the D26 9 series. The only downside is lamp life. I had my first HO-E1R burn out on me after about 15 hours, but it was only rated for 18 hours anyways. I do like with SF lamps though that they will rate them for 35 hours, but they will last more like 75.


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## CLHC (Mar 28, 2007)

On Lumens Factory's Specifications website for the E series; the HO-E1A/R is rated for 15 hours while the EO-E1R is 18. Not that I'm tend to be using it for consecutive extended periods of time, though I'm guessing your methods may vary accordingly.


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## Patriot (Mar 28, 2007)

cernobila said:


> I have the EO-E1R 90 lumen lamp in my E1E with a RCR123 cell. It compares to my G2 with P60 lamp/regular cells and my other G2 with W/E 3.7V lamp/17670 cell. These three combinations are very similar in output but the run time varies.
> 
> Dont forget that the lumen rating on the L/F lamps is not the same as the rating stated by S/F for their lamps.


 
As far as the lumen rating goes, what would be the approximate Surefire equivelent rating for a Lumens Factory 150 lumen 7.2V E series lamp. Would it be close to P61 outpute or am I dreaming?


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Mar 28, 2007)

Patriot36 said:


> As far as the lumen rating goes, what would be the approximate Surefire equivelent rating for a Lumens Factory 150 lumen 7.2V E series lamp. Would it be close to P61 outpute or am I dreaming?


 That would be around 100 SureFire lumens. Yes, it's almost like the P61, but not quite there.


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## EV_007 (Mar 30, 2007)

I tested three LF LAs and I'm very impressed with the results. Shorter runtime and heat would be the only drawbacks. But then again, that cannot really be avoided for such high output. 

The EO-E1R putting out 90 lumens in my SF E1E 
About as bright as the P60.

The EO-E2R putting out 150 lumens in my SF E2E 
Sightly brighter than the P60, Best combo for size and output for me.

The EO-9 putting out 380 lumens in my SF 9P with 2x17670s
Brighter than the P91. Round hotspot rather than ovalish. 

I'm impressed with LFs offerings.


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## CLHC (Mar 31, 2007)

EV_007 said:


> Round hotspot rather than ovalish.


I'm curious to know if the EO-Exx series that you have have that "perfect/flawless" hotspot of a beam?

Can't hardly wait for mine to arrive already.

Thanks!


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## EV_007 (Mar 31, 2007)

I wouldn't say flawless, but it does give the SF LAs a run for their money. I mean my money that is. I'll have to take some comparison beamshots of the LF vs. SF LAs I have. I don't mind the oval shape of the P91 at all. Turned sideways, it gives me good horizontal coverage.


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## CLHC (Mar 31, 2007)

Thanks! I too don't mind the SF.9P's oblong shaped hotspot. Gives me that Cyclops FOV.

Enjoy!


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## CLHC (Apr 2, 2007)

EV_007 said:


> I wouldn't say flawless


Okay, I just received my HO-E1A this afternoon. I installed a brand spanking new SF123 in my SF.E1 with the new LF/LA, and the battery reading on my Meterman DM7 was 3.28—

Turned the light on and it is brighter than the stock SF.LA, but white enough it is. The hotspot isn't "flawless" as *EV_007* stated, but purposeful in real world use, so no problem there.

Here's the funny thing though. It was on for only about 15~20 seconds before it turned off. Would not turn on again. Discon/Recon and still would not light up. This time I took a reading of the SF123 battery and it read 1.98 from about a minute earlier of 3.28. Is that correct? Any ideas as to what is going on?

By the way, I noticed that the LF/LA started flickering before it turned off.

Thanks in advance!


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## GeorgePaul (Apr 2, 2007)

CHC said:


> ...took a reading of the SF123 battery and it read 1.98 from about a minute earlier of 3.28. Is that correct? Any ideas as to what is going on?


It's certainly not good. I bet you have a defective bulb.


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## tussery (Apr 2, 2007)

Check to see if the bulb has continuity if not you have a blown bulb.


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## Glen C (Apr 2, 2007)

I would check continuity on the bulb, if that is ok you may be unlucky and have a defective battery. Do you have another battery to check against?


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## CLHC (Apr 3, 2007)

It seems that it's working with another battery in there and with OEM SF.TC. But how come when I use the McClickyTC it does or doesn't work at times?


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## Glen C (Apr 3, 2007)

CHC, check your tailcap for continuity, both on and off. You may have a short in there which might be draining the battery.


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## CLHC (Apr 3, 2007)

Excuse me, but I'm ignorant regarding these matters. How do I "check. . .tailcap for continuity"?


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## Glen C (Apr 3, 2007)

CHC, I am not familiar with your tailcap, but most tailcaps complete the circut between the battery and the body. Put the test probe on the point where the battery normally connects (often a button in the centre) and where you believe the circuit is completed to the body (sometimes a disc, threads). I would test it both on and off, as it seems a big voltage drop in 20 seconds of running, maybe a short when you think it is off.

There may be another reason to do with the tailcap, I am not familiar with yours, maybe someone else knows something?


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