# Logan Lathe ?



## las3r (Mar 22, 2012)

Hey guys i found lathe that looks nice that is near me, i need some input to see if its worth getting and how much should i try to get it for if its worth getting of course 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320871004159?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2648

feel free to post any comments about it thanks


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## precisionworks (Mar 23, 2012)

Here's a great place to start: http://www.lathes.co.uk/logan/index.html


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## las3r (Mar 23, 2012)

So since I don't no that much on lathes, it don't sound like a bad one from what I read


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## 350xfire (Mar 23, 2012)

That is one clean-looking machine with all the accessories! Bed looks good on the pics too.... If you can get it for a good price, probably a great machine.


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## las3r (Mar 23, 2012)

It's on eBay but very close to me and Its up to 1100, i think that's a good deal so fare, and the seller says it will fit a maglite in it and that's something I wanted


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## BVH (Mar 23, 2012)

In the ad, it lists the spindle bore as only 1 3/8". That will not accommodate a "D" Mag.


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## 350xfire (Mar 23, 2012)

BVH said:


> In the ad, it lists the spindle bore as only 1 3/8". That will not accommodate a "D" Mag.



Nope, but the chuck will be able to take in a few inches. Then you can use a bull nose center to support it.


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## precisionworks (Mar 24, 2012)

One huge benefit to the Logan is availability of factory parts from The Logan Actuator Company: http://store.lathe.com/

That's as clean a lathe as any I've ever seen. No evidence of a Krylon Rebuild or any other attempt to cover up something that might delay a sale. Probably worth at least $2000 USD especially since it will not cost $500 truck freight to get it delivered.


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## las3r (Mar 24, 2012)

Yea I think I'm going to take a chance at it, I was going to go and get a pm 1127LB but that's $2500 plus I'd have to buy tools, but I'd have to get a bullnose so I can cut fins into mag host


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## las3r (Mar 24, 2012)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LATE-MODEL-SOUTH-BEND-AMSTED-LATHE-QUICK-CHANGE-TOOLING-AND-EXTRAS-NICE-DROP-/280847792011?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4163d5378b

And there is this one.......what one would u machinest choose ?


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## precisionworks (Mar 24, 2012)

las3r said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/LATE-MODEL-SOUTH-BEND-AMSTED-LATHE-QUICK-CHANGE-TOOLING-AND-EXTRAS-NICE-DROP-/280847792011?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4163d5378b
> 
> And there is this one.......what one would u machinist choose ?


The Craigslist machine may be really nice & it may be a dog - those photos are terrible. It is worth your time to see it in person, take good photos, post them here, etc.

Best Offer on Craigslist sometimes means "I want $5000 USD for a lathe that would sell for $2500 USD on eBay". People who don't post the price are often fishing for a buyer willing to pay more than the machine is worth. 

With all that in mind, the machine is a SB 9-K, which is identical to the SB 10-K except that center height is 0.5" lower. Tons of accessories available for this machine. Consider by some to be the best small American home shop lathe ever produced. 

Only three things to look for when you pay a visit ... Condition, Condition, Condition :nana:

IMO you are paying for the lathe & the included tooling is worth nothing ... unless the condition of the tooling is pristine & the tooling is American/Japanese/European. If the tooling is Chinese it may or may not be of any value & you'll have to judge that - Phase II tooling is very good, No Name tooling is always suspect. 

FWIW a pristine SB 9-K with 3-jaw chuck is worth $2000 USD or more. Pristine means a score of 10 out of 10. Not many machines are like that.


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## gadget_lover (Mar 24, 2012)

precisionworks said:


> IMO you are paying for the lathe & the included tooling is worth nothing ... unless the condition of the tooling is pristine & the tooling is American/Japanese/European. If the tooling is Chinese it may or may not be of any value & you'll have to judge that - Phase II tooling is very good, No Name tooling is always suspect.



In this instance, I beg to differ. Las3r said that he is just learning, so he probably has no tools to speak of. When you are in that position you don't even know which tools are the right size or where to get them. In those cases having any working tooling is a plus. I'd not advocating that used tooling is worth thousands of dollars, but given two identical models I'd take the one with matching tooling and accessories. Those tools (even crappy ones) will save you a lot of time in getting started.

Caution: anecdote follows: My first lathe came with no tooling, and it took many hours to determine that I'd need 1/4 inch HSS bits and shims to get it to the 5/16 centerline of the lathe. Then I had to find bits in that size, and that took days. I had the lathe for over a week before I could cut the first chips. Even then, I did a poor job of grinding the tool and it was painful to use. It took all evening to turn two short tapers on a AAA flashlight.

I'm saying that the learning curve is steep enough when starting out. If you start with tools that should fit and should work, then that's something you can learn about later AND you can compare the new tools to the ones that you already have. It's easier to learn to use the lathe if you have the proper tooling to begin with.

Daniel


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## las3r (Mar 24, 2012)

all great info guys and thanks for posting, witch ever one i decide to go withe im sure ill have many more questions on what tools to buy next 

first thing im going to do is get a bull nose to support a mag body so i can cut/make some fins


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## precisionworks (Mar 25, 2012)

gadget_lover said:


> I'm saying that the learning curve is steep enough when starting out. If you start with tools that should fit and should work, then that's something you can learn about later AND you can compare the new tools to the ones that you already have. It's easier to learn to use the lathe if you have the proper tooling to begin with.
> 
> Daniel


I agree totally with what you said. Being able to plug n play is a great advantage. Just be cautious that the appropriate amount is being paid for the quality of tooling that's provided. 



> get a bull nose to support a mag body so i can cut/make some fins


I have a couple of pipe centers and rarely use them on aluminum lights since it takes so little time to turn a Delrin "centering plug" that is used with any live center. Dimensions aren't critical, on the OD leave it about .0005" - .0010" (.01mm-.02mm) under bore diameter so the plug easily slides in but has no wiggle. Make the length at least as long as the diameter (see orange dotted line below). Use a center drill to make a "center" support hole:












The photos show a SF light gripped in the indexer & supported by the tail stock on the mill but the identical setup is often used on the lathe for OD turning. Aluminum is butter soft & a Delrin plug is much safer than a pipe center.


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## las3r (Mar 25, 2012)

very nice photo's, i got a good idea on how to set up my mag body when i get the lathe this week  Thanks PW for the photo's


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## precisionworks (Mar 25, 2012)

las3r said:


> very nice photo's, i got a good idea on how to set up my mag body when i get the lathe this week  Thanks PW for the photo's


TYVM - Will Q gets the thanks (or the blame) for my photos. The equipment has progressed from an inexpensive compact camera to a DSLR with macro lens & tripod. It would be hard to explain the plug concept without images.


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## las3r (Mar 25, 2012)

Well guys here is the one i got  i like it and i think it will work for my needs, came with few starting tools witch is a little plus for me but u guys can still put comments on what u think of it will have it on Friday or Saturday 


Its a Power Matic comes with a set of IIndexable Boring Bars, Turning tools and a AXAQC Tool Post Holder, it cuts Inch and Metric Threads, HS 5PC Holerset, Turn Face Bore Knurl CutOff and its 110V Forward and Reverce


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## gadget_lover (Mar 25, 2012)

Congrats! 

It sure looks pretty, and appears to be a Logan, but not the one that was on eBay in the original post.

What size is this one? Is it also an 11 inch swing? 

You will find that the QCTP is much better for a beginner than the lantern style that was used in the original post. 

What did it set you back?

Daniel


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## brickbat (Mar 25, 2012)

I had a "powermatic 1885TH" lathe. It was 10 x 36", on a cabinet like yours. As I recall, the model number (1885 in my case) was stamped on the tailstock end of one of the ways. It was made by Logan, as was yours. 

Model numbers here:

http://www.lathe.com/models.htm


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## precisionworks (Mar 25, 2012)

las3r said:


> Its a Power Matic





> It was made by Logan, as was yours. Model numbers here:
> 
> http://www.lathe.com/models.htm


+1

Which model is yours?


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## las3r (Mar 25, 2012)

ill email the guy and ask for the modal number ect........it did not set me back nothing yet i have to pay when i get there but he was asking 2200 and got him down to 1800 

the guy is a retired machinist and he said if anything goes wrong down the road that he can repair it for me also


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## las3r (Mar 26, 2012)

Do u guys think that's lil to much for that machine ?


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## precisionworks (Mar 26, 2012)

las3r said:


> Do u guys think that's lil to much for that machine ?


 the question to ask yourself is what else can I find for that amount of money that would be better. IMO It looks like a very well maintained machine with enough tooling to easily justify the price.


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## 350xfire (Mar 26, 2012)

I trhink $1800 for a "name brand" American lathe is not bad. Remember this thing has the potential of making money for you! Sure there is always the one ******* bragging about his free machine but those are very rare...


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## gadget_lover (Mar 27, 2012)

Money is not tight for me at the moment, so I can afford to use a strange measure of value. 

First the background: No matter what I buy I always find a better deal later. The problem is that these deals never surface (when I have money) until I commit to buying "the best deal that I've seen in a year". The very next week I will see the same or better model on sale, or the same price with every accessory known to man. The same thing happens with cars, houses, etc. 

My way of coping is to decide if I'm satisfied with the price while ignoring all the invisible competition. I ignore the resale price, since I almost never sell. If I'm satisfied that I will enjoy the tool and can afford it, I go for it. If I'm not 100% sure I pass. 

The reason that this works is that if you pay $1800 for it and it's a good buy, you will enjoy it. If no one ever tells you that you overpaid, you will enjoy it. It only loses value when you are told that you overpaid.

That's a nice looking lathe. If I were in the market I'd certainly entertain buying for that price. 

Daniel


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## precisionworks (Mar 27, 2012)

> $1800 for a "name brand" American lathe is not bad.


+1

It took a long time for me to forget the beautiful sculptured look of my South Bend. I try hard not to look at my Chinese lathe as it is ugly as sin ... and that is understated. It doesn't even qualify for homely. If an American/Japanese/Euro machine had been available when I got rid of the South Bend I'd have been more pleased. Big Ugly does what she's supposed to & isn't really fussy but she's still disappointing to look at.

Buy the Logan & enjoy it. It is classic 1950's Art Deco in an industrial device.


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## las3r (Mar 27, 2012)

Thanks guys I'll go with that one, and the money I will save I can buy tools with


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## 350xfire (Mar 27, 2012)

WOW! I just found one on Craigslist. The guy said it's in working condition, restored about 1 year ago, with all the tooling and he will deliver it for FREE... Not only that, he will pay me $50 to help him unload it at my house....

OK, just kidding!


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## las3r (Mar 27, 2012)

hahaha that will be my luck


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## StrikerDown (Mar 27, 2012)

If it's in as good of shape as it looks in the pics it looks like a good deal to me.

Also in the pics I see the chuck key is in the chuck... Bad place to store it. Just hit the power button to find out why! Best case it will launch into the chip pan and scare the crap out of you... worst case I don't want to think about!!


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## las3r (Mar 27, 2012)

Yea I don't no why he has it there, like u said bad spot


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## brickbat (Mar 27, 2012)

las3r said:


> Do u guys think that's lil to much for that machine ?



Yes, I do.

[TOOLGLOAT *******] I bought mine for $250 at a school auction - it came with a 6" Buck Adjust True, but no other tooling [/TOOLGLOAT *******]

But, it's hard to be in the right place at the right time, and if you want a lathe now, you should go for it. Otherwise, scan local auctions, wait up to a year or two, and you'll find a better deal, almost certain about that...


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## precisionworks (Mar 28, 2012)

> it's hard to be in the right place at the right time, and if you want a lathe now, you should go for it. Otherwise, scan local auctions, wait up to a year or two


I wasted at least 10 years looking for "a deal". Finally found the right machine, paid little for it, etc. Not a bad option IF you already have a working lathe in your shop & you want a second lathe or a replacement machine. 

One of the best brands in the world is Mori Seiki. Mori started building lathes in the late 1950's, taking the best designs in the world (American & European) & improving upon that base. I ran one for a year or so in the 1970's & the old-timers refused to use it, calling it "Jap Crap". That Mori consistently held much closer tolerances than the American Pacemaker sitting beside it & eventually the old guys gave it a try. Mori licensed their patented design to Hwacheon & those Korean machines were imported into the USA under the names of Webb or Cadillac. Parts are 100% interchangeable with Mori & quality is very nice on the ones I've seen. 

Cost of a Mori, even the smallest 12x50, runs around $12,000 USD for one in nice shape. Webb & Cadillac are less, often in the $6000-$8000 range for the 12x50. My Chinese lathe is larger, heavier, more capable, more ugly, and costs half what a Webb or Cadillac sells for. 

Why the ramble? Buy what you can afford today, run it hard, hone your skills, make some money with it, trade up when you can. Waiting for a great deal produces no chips & lots of frustration.

Mori Seiki eye candy


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## 350xfire (Mar 28, 2012)

brickbat said:


> Yes, I do.
> 
> [TOOLGLOAT *******] I bought mine for $250 at a school auction - it came with a 6" Buck Adjust True, but no other tooling [/TOOLGLOAT *******]
> 
> But, it's hard to be in the right place at the right time, and if you want a lathe now, you should go for it. Otherwise, scan local auctions, wait up to a year or two, and you'll find a better deal, almost certain about that...



hahaha... Yeah "*******".. lol!


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## darkzero (Mar 28, 2012)

precisionworks said:


> I wasted at least 10 years looking for "a deal". Finally found the right machine, paid little for it, etc. Not a bad option IF you already have a working lathe in your shop & you want a second lathe or a replacement machine.
> 
> One of the best brands in the world is Mori Seiki. Mori started building lathes in the late 1950's, taking the best designs in the world (American & European) & improving upon that base. I ran one for a year or so in the 1970's & the old-timers refused to use it, calling it "Jap Crap". That Mori consistently held much closer tolerances than the American Pacemaker sitting beside it & eventually the old guys gave it a try. Mori licensed their patented design to Hwacheon & those Korean machines were imported into the USA under the names of Webb or Cadillac. Parts are 100% interchangeable with Mori & quality is very nice on the ones I've seen.
> 
> ...





Mori Seiki is all my retired shop instructor talked about & often said "if you can even find one" (let alone afford one), the conventional machines that is. After I searched on them.....those are what I dream of.


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## precisionworks (Mar 29, 2012)

darkzero said:


> Mori Seiki is all my retired shop instructor talked about & often said "if you can even find one" (let alone afford one), the conventional machines that is. After I searched on them.....those are what I dream of.


+1

Mori has it all - stunning styling, incredible quality of build, incorporation of the best features from Europe & the USA during the Post WWII era. If price doesn't matter it's one of the top three manual machines ever built. Webb & Cadillac aren't cosmetically as nice but the price is way lower than Mori & all parts interchange. There are Asian knock offs of Mori but those have zero parts interchange & fall short of either Webb or Cadillac.

I'd be thrilled to have either a Mori or an American Pacemaker in the shop. Another candidate is Koping (Swedish) whose massiveness reminds many of a Pacemaker:







A 24" swing S24 was the main lathe in the mine repair shop where I worked. Not the largest swing - the big Niles held that distinction - but certainly the most versatile machine in the shop. http://www.lathes.co.uk/storebro/

If you've never worked around a Niles or other huge lathe here's how one is set up ...


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## precisionworks (Mar 29, 2012)

darkzero said:


> Mori Seiki is all my retired shop instructor talked about & often said "if you can even find one" (let alone afford one), the conventional machines that is. After I searched on them.....those are what I dream of.


+1

Mori has it all - stunning styling, incredible quality of build, incorporation of the best features from Europe & the USA during the Post WWII era. If price doesn't matter it's one of the top three manual machines ever built. Webb & Cadillac aren't cosmetically as nice but the price is way lower than Mori & all parts interchange. There are Asian knock offs of Mori but those have zero parts interchange & fall short of either Webb or Cadillac.

I'd be thrilled to have either a Mori or an American Pacemaker in the shop. Another candidate is Koping (Swedish) whose massiveness reminds many of a Pacemaker:






A 24" swing S24 was the main lathe in the mine repair shop where I worked. Not the largest swing - the big Niles held that distinction - but certainly the most versatile machine in the shop. 

If you've never worked around a Niles or other huge lathe here's how one is set up. The machinist's right hand is resting on one of the clamping nuts on the tool post. Can't remember the exact shank size of the tools, seems like 6" square (152mm). That machine would swing 72" (1.8m).


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