# Jetbeam tcr 01 is out



## swan (Apr 10, 2012)

Just noticed this on the jetbeam website- damn waiting on my sunwayman ti plus and this comes out.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 10, 2012)

Wow!

It looks gorgeous!!! I wonder how much it will cost.


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## mohanjude (Apr 10, 2012)

Looks nice. Wonder when it will be available for sale...


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## Theatre Booth Guy (Apr 10, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Wow!
> 
> It looks gorgeous!!! I wonder how much it will cost.



+1


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## Gilgamesh (Apr 10, 2012)

Hmm, can't find it. Got a link?


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## run4jc (Apr 10, 2012)

Gilgamesh said:


> Hmm, can't find it. Got a link?



http://www.jet-beam.com/links/pro/tcr1.aspx


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## Ilikelite (Apr 10, 2012)

I asked them last week if they were coming out with a ti xml light and they said no and here it is!

SENT FROM MY HTC THUNDERBOLT USING TAPATALK


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## Coup de Grace (Apr 10, 2012)

Great looking light. 
I'm guessing the price would be around the price of the SWM Ti+.
I just wondering how the "momentary on" feature work with this light.


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## HIDblue (Apr 10, 2012)

Oh for Christmas sakes...I'm waiting on my Sunwayman Ti+ to arrive and JB comes out with this? They're killing me. Couldn't they have come out with this light just a few weeks sooner? 

I was on the fence about the RRT-01, but it looks like a stunner in the Ti version. Interesting that they're using a SMO reflector in such a small light. Looks like April is going to be worse than I expected...

On the plus side, I'm hoping this means they'll come up with a Ti version of the RRT-0 XM-L. That would be even better. 

Photo is from Jetbeam's website:


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## F250XLT (Apr 10, 2012)




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## roadkill1109 (Apr 10, 2012)

ive been pushing my friend in Jetbeam to reveal the pricing for this limited edition light, but so far, no word yet as to how much it will go for.

what i do KNOW, is that there is only 1000 units manufactured, SO GET IN LINE PEOPLE!


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## fabienne (Apr 10, 2012)

isn't the feature pretty much the same as rrt-0 xm-l ?


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## Bigmac_79 (Apr 10, 2012)

Very nice looking.


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## Fitz (Apr 10, 2012)

Anyone notice the control ring looks exactly like the Sunwayman, down to the shape of the cutouts?


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## Bigmac_79 (Apr 10, 2012)

Fitz said:


> Anyone notice the control ring looks exactly like the Sunwayman, down to the shape of the cutouts?



I was about to say the same thing. It's possible the Jetbeam's grooves are slightly wider, but it's hard to tell from the pictures.


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## Sgt. LED (Apr 10, 2012)

Sunwayman semi-clone
Clip blocks control ring
Smooth reflector, be a pretty beam lol
No tailcap switch but they added the extra length anyway......
It's nice to see a Ti light I don't instantly want to buy


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## aflashinthenight (Apr 10, 2012)

what would be good to know it's when and where from it will be available....

I did a quick round of the dealers and it was nowhere announced yet


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## calipsoii (Apr 10, 2012)

Fitz said:


> Anyone notice the control ring looks exactly like the Sunwayman, down to the shape of the cutouts?



Not to rain on this for you, but Jetbeam has been using this aesthetic for a lot longer than SWM has even been around.

In not so many words: SWM "borrowed" the aesthetic from JB. Truth be told though, I have a sneaking suspicion that SWM is also owned by the same company that owns Nitecore and Jetbeam.


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## aflashinthenight (Apr 10, 2012)

that was already the case with the TC-R2


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## robeden (Apr 10, 2012)

Ilikelite said:


> I asked them last week if they were coming out with a ti xml light and they said no and here it is



that figures right?
I just emailed them last night asking about the possibility of an extender for the rrt-01 to fit an 18650 and they said no. Here's hoping they do the same thing and an extender comes out next week!!


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 10, 2012)

Sgt. LED said:


> Sunwayman semi-clone
> Clip blocks control ring
> Smooth reflector, be a pretty beam lol
> No tailcap switch but they added the extra length anyway......
> It's nice to see a Ti light I don't instantly want to buy



Considering that the RRT-01 in aluminum seems to be a better light than the Sunwayman V11R, this new titanium version of the RRT-01 looks beautiful.

Keep in mind that the RRT-01 has a number of advantages compared to a V11R or the V10R Ti+:
1. RRT-01 can be operated one-handed without having to flip the light around in the hand after pressing the button since there is no button to press. The only control is the ring.
2. RRT-01 has the lowest low of any light on the market, and a brighter high than the Sunwayman (514 lumens for V10R T+ compared to someone's measured 542 lumens for RRT-01).
3. RRT-01 holds a larger battery (18350 compared to 16340 for the Sunwayman). Hopefully this should mean it has longer battery life despite having a larger current draw than the Sunwayman.
4. RRT-01 is smaller than a V10R or V10R Ti+ / V11R.
5. RRT-01 has a wider spillbeam due to its shallower reflector. Great for close-in work.
6. RRT-01 does not have any metal tailcap binding issues like the V11R and V10R Ti+ seem plagued with.

In contrast, the main advantage of the V10R Ti+ / V11R seems to be:
1. Light orange peel reflector - the beam is still ringy, but not as ringy as the smooth reflector in the RRT-01.


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## Danielsan (Apr 10, 2012)

i guess those companys just giving their names and the flashlights from those companys were all build from the same factorys


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## F250XLT (Apr 10, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Considering that the RRT-01 in aluminum seems to be a better light than the Sunwayman V11R, this new titanium version of the RRT-01 looks beautiful.
> 
> Keep in mind that the RRT-01 has a number of advantages compared to a V11R or the V10R Ti+:
> 1. RRT-01 can be operated one-handed without having to flip the light around in the hand after pressing the button since there is no button to press. The only control is the ring.
> ...




I think #1 is a big plus, that is the first thing that I wasn't comfortable with when I used the Ti+.

As far as #4, I'm not sure if that's a good thing or not...I find the V10R to be too small without the AA extender installed.


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## somnambulated (Apr 10, 2012)

I find it really funny that the control ring without a tailcap switch is seen as a far better UI by some. I've seen it mentioned multiple times. I don't know about anyone else, but I find twisty lights annoyingly cumbersome compared to clicking a switch.The magnetic ring is only more ergonomic if you're used to holding lights in a traditional grip the entire time you're using them. I don't know about you, but cigar hold seems more practical and ergonomic to me, especially on smaller lights.

That said, I'm still waiting for my V10r+ preorder, and definitely keeping an eye on this one.


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## F250XLT (Apr 10, 2012)

somnambulated said:


> I find it really funny that the control ring without a tailcap switch is seen as a far better UI by some. I've seen it mentioned multiple times. I don't know about anyone else, but I find twisty lights annoyingly cumbersome compared to clicking a switch.The magnetic ring is only more ergonomic if you're used to holding lights in a traditional grip the entire time you're using them. I don't know about you, but cigar hold seems more practical and ergonomic to me, especially on smaller lights.
> 
> That said, I'm still waiting for my V10r+ preorder, and definitely keeping an eye on this one.




How do you work the ring one handed while using the cigar grip?


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## Mike75 (Apr 10, 2012)

Having all the Ti versions of JetBeam, I can say that this one is a beauty... Just what I need for my collection. I also have all the Ti models from sunwayman, save for the new Ti+, and they are very nice and all, but JetBeam has a better designer, that is for sure...


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## Mike75 (Apr 10, 2012)

Strange thing, the light is on JetBeam's website, but nobody has it for pre-order...


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## fabienne (Apr 10, 2012)

Mike75 said:


> Strange thing, the light is on JetBeam's website, but nobody has it for pre-order...


I've just been offered by my local seller. I'm quite surprised to know the price is over USD 200. Don't know how much he got it though.



F250XLT said:


> How do you work the ring one handed while using the cigar grip?


Probably the best example would be HDS rotary ?


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 10, 2012)

fabienne said:


> I've just been offered by my local seller. I'm quite surprised to know the price is over USD 200. Don't know how much he got it though.



Ouch! over 200? I might have to pass.


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## F250XLT (Apr 10, 2012)

fabienne said:


> Probably the best example would be HDS rotary ?




But the control ring on a Ratory is in the tail, isn't it?


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 10, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> But the control ring on a Ratory is in the tail, isn't it?



Yup.

With a light with the control ring up front like a Jetbeam or Sunwayman it's impossible to hold the light in a cigar grip and still access the control ring.

For such a light, omitting the button and just having the ring as the only control makes much more sense (Sunwayman M11R, Jetbeam RRT-01 / TCR-01). That way you can pickup the light with a conventional handshake hold and your finger and thumb will naturally fall onto the ring for easy access to power and all brightness settings without having to flip the light.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 10, 2012)

Duplicate post - please delete.


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## F250XLT (Apr 10, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Yup.
> 
> With a light with the control ring up front like a Jetbeam or Sunwayman it's impossible to hold the light in a cigar grip and still access the control ring.
> 
> For such a light, omitting the button and just having the ring as the only control makes much more sense (Sunwayman M11R, Jetbeam RRT-01 / TCR-01). That way you can pickup the light with a conventional handshake hold and your finger and thumb will naturally fall onto the ring for easy access to power and all brightness settings without having to flip the light.



That is my thought as well, I just didn't understand the previous post below...




somnambulated said:


> I find it really funny that the control ring without a tailcap switch is seen as a far better UI by some. I've seen it mentioned multiple times. I don't know about anyone else, but I find twisty lights annoyingly cumbersome compared to clicking a switch.The magnetic ring is only more ergonomic if you're used to holding lights in a traditional grip the entire time you're using them. I don't know about you, but cigar hold seems more practical and ergonomic to me, especially on smaller lights.
> 
> That said, I'm still waiting for my V10r+ preorder, and definitely keeping an eye on this one.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 10, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> With a light with the control ring up front like a Jetbeam or Sunwayman it's impossible to hold the light in a cigar grip and still access the control ring.


Unless you're gripping the light by the control ring itself.


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## Mike75 (Apr 10, 2012)

Over 200$? All this limited edition Ti lights thing is getting out of hand... Manufacturers must make 200% on this, and so are the dealers...
I want one, though... Let's see what will be the final price...


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 10, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> Unless you're gripping the light by the control ring itself.



I just tried that with my V10R XM-L. Didn't work at all. The ring lacks traction and is too stiff. And it's so far forward that if I have my thumb on the button, then the best I could do is my pinkie on the ring. It was very hard to turn the ring like this and I had little control over it. It felt vastly more awkward than just flipping the light to use the ring ... and enormously more awkward than the RRT-01's setup.


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## Ragnar66 (Apr 10, 2012)

Mike75 said:


> Over 200$? All this limited edition Ti lights thing is getting out of hand... Manufacturers must make 200% on this, and so are the dealers...
> I want one, though... Let's see what will be the final price...



Yeah.....I'm starting to think about that myself.....


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## kaichu dento (Apr 10, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> I just tried that with my V10R XM-L. Didn't work at all. The ring lacks traction and is too stiff. And it's so far forward that if I have my thumb on the button, then the best I could do is my pinkie on the ring. It was very hard to turn the ring like this and I had little control over it. It felt vastly more awkward than just flipping the light to use the ring ... and enormously more awkward than the RRT-01's setup.


Yes, exactly - not at all practical, but I enjoyed your post describing it!


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## recDNA (Apr 10, 2012)

No clicky at all? I wish they retained the tcr2 ui.


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## XFlash (Apr 10, 2012)

somnambulated said:


> I find it really funny that the control ring without a tailcap switch is seen as a far better UI by some. I've seen it mentioned multiple times. I don't know about anyone else, but I find twisty lights annoyingly cumbersome compared to clicking a switch.The magnetic ring is only more ergonomic if you're used to holding lights in a traditional grip the entire time you're using them. I don't know about you, but cigar hold seems more practical and ergonomic to me, especially on smaller lights.
> 
> That said, I'm still waiting for my V10r+ preorder, and definitely keeping an eye on this one.



I agree, its nice to have a level picked before you turn the light on also.


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## Mike75 (Apr 10, 2012)

I have no idea what will be the final price of this light, but it seems that the price is not correlated in any way to amount of titanium needed to make those, since the TCR2 was bigger and the TCR3 was a lot bigger, but the price was lower...
Not fair...


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## F250XLT (Apr 10, 2012)

Looks like I might opt for the aluminum version.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 10, 2012)

I will be watching this one closely. I can see it appealing to people who might've bought a Nautilus back when they were available -- minimal size, and a whole lot more adjustability. Plus it has a pocket clip. Almost certainly inferior runtime, but that's to be expected with a circuit complex enough to offer infinitely-adjustable brightness.

EDIT: Okay, it's quite a bit larger than the Nautilus, relatively speaking, but it's almost the exact same size as the Arc6, which is still my reference point for "really small CR123 light".


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## TEEJ (Apr 10, 2012)

If the ring is on the tail, you want a clicky to select on/off, so you can pick the brightness/mode ahead of time....otherwise, the UI is the same inconvenience as the classic twist to lock on/off or change modes, etc.

I like a tail clicky even if its redundant, simply for convenience.

I just DON'T like having to do so many clicks for this, and so many clicks for that...its like having to learn a morse code to use the light.


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## F250XLT (Apr 10, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> I will be watching this one closely. I can see it appealing to people who might've bought a Nautilus back when they were available -- minimal size, and a whole lot more adjustability. Plus it has a pocket clip. Almost certainly inferior runtime, but that's to be expected with a circuit complex enough to offer infinitely-adjustable brightness.
> 
> EDIT: Okay, it's quite a bit larger than the Nautilus, relatively speaking, but it's almost the exact same size as the Arc6, which is still my reference point for "really small CR123 light".



Kinda curious as to why they ran the clip down so low, looks like it would interfere with the ring?


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## PilotBart (Apr 10, 2012)

What a nice looking beamer!


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## fyrstormer (Apr 10, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Kinda curious as to why they ran the clip down so low, looks like it would interfere with the ring?


I suppose the pragmatic answer is: because they're using the same clip on a shorter light.

The clip _might_ interfere with the ring, but only if it touches the ring directly. Just coming close to the ring shouldn't make a difference. On my TC-R2, the clip ends just behind the ring, and that's close enough to require me to let go of the ring in mid-twist and readjust my grip on the ring to continue turning it, which doesn't pose any real-world hardship since I can only twist the ring so far before my fingers fall off the ring anyway. On the TC-R1, the clip does reach over the ring, but I don't anticipate that having any functional difference compared to the TC-R2.

If I had to level any criticism at the design, it would be threefold:
1. The keyring attachment is not useful on a light this large, so skip it and make the light smaller.
2. Put the knurled part of the body on the sides and put the smooth part of the body under the clip.
3. Use a textured reflector.

#3 should lend itself to a McR20 retrofit. #2 is a minor irritation that probably will have no real-world impact since it's not a tactical light, and I know from carrying my TC-R2 that the knurling under the clip poses no danger to pocket stitching. #1 is also a minor irritation and I suppose it at least appeals to lanyard enthusiasts; if the keyring attachment is removable, maybe someone can make a run of screw-in titanium trit holders. :devil:


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## Ilikelite (Apr 10, 2012)

I just dont like it. I dont want to have to use the ring everytime to get to the setting I want. It would be nice to leave it on a setting and then turn it on when needed. Jetbeam...make a TCU2. I want the tcr2 body form and function with an xml.

SENT FROM MY HTC THUNDERBOLT USING TAPATALK


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## fyrstormer (Apr 10, 2012)

I agree, being able to pre-set the brightness before turning the light on, and having the control ring "remember" its position after you shut the light off, is very handy. The TC-R2 is one of my favorite lights ever.

I'm just saying _this_ light looks like it'll do a good job of targeting a _different_ market segment that prefers twisty interfaces.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 10, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> I agree, being able to pre-set the brightness before turning the light on, and having the control ring "remember" its position after you shut the light off, is very handy. The TC-R2 is one of my favorite lights ever.
> 
> I'm just saying _this_ light looks like it'll do a good job of targeting a _different_ market segment that prefers twisty interfaces.



Just because it has a ring that turns and no button doesn't make it a twisty interface. The magnetic ring on my RRT-01 is much more precise and easy to control than any twisty interface. 

Personally, I hate twisty lights. I find them very difficult to control with one hand and awkward to use when you need it. And they tend to flop around and can even unscrew and fall apart. I tend to much prefer clickies for that reason. They feel like they have more control.

what makes the ring on the RRT-01 so great is that I have even more control than a clicky, with the light feeling nearly as secure in the hand as a side-switch light like the Zebralight SC80.


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## recDNA (Apr 10, 2012)

It's neither fish nor fowl. Either make.it small enough for key ring use or put a clicky on it for pocket carry.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 10, 2012)

recDNA said:


> It's neither fish nor fowl. Either make.it small enough for key ring use or put a clicky on it for pocket carry.



Personally, I think it's fine as-is. In my opinion, this is a much better light than the Sunwayman V10R for pocket EDC (I carry my light loose in my pocket). I'm glad it doesn't have a tailcap button.


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## scout24 (Apr 10, 2012)

This, and the "regular" RRT-01 are approaching my personal ideal in an EDC light. As long as I've been here, I wanted a Titan or T1A with a bunch more up top, and a pocketclip. Love the twisty UI, the on/off detents, and a big honkin' bunch of light up high, with a lower low than my beloved SF's. And a pocket clip! Runtime and thermal management are at user discretion, I don't mind charging batteries. Or heaven forbid, run a primary at 200lm and have your runtime! If I need more runtime, I'll carry it. If I need a thrower, I'll carry it. I can comfortably swing from off to max in one motion with fairly small hands, and the RRT-01 is the same length as a T1A, I got to stand them side-by-side last week. A Keeper, and a win for Jetbeam in my book. YMMV... :thumbsup:.


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## roadkill1109 (Apr 10, 2012)

The light will retail for at least $180, but this price will not include shipping yet. 

Also, FYI, the lights will be numbered from 0001/1000 to 1000/1000. 

Will be available to distributors soon.

Is this light worth it?


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## scottyhazzard (Apr 10, 2012)

Oh, momma! Here I go again...


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## fyrstormer (Apr 10, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Just because it has a ring that turns and no button doesn't make it a twisty interface. The magnetic ring on my RRT-01 is much more precise and easy to control than any twisty interface.


There are two kinds of twisty interfaces -- progressive-twist and multi-twist. Multi-twist is the kind cheap lights use where the user has to twist the light on and off repeatedly to change modes -- essentially a multi-click UI retrofitted to a twisty light to save space and cut cost. Progressive-twist is what the Muyshondt Aeon, McGizmo PD, Arc6, and Surefire T1 lights use, where the light gets progressively brighter as the user twists the head.

The RRT-01/TC-R1 may use an electronic sensor to adjust the brightness, instead of a pressure-sensitive mechanism like the other lights I listed, but it's still a progressive-twist interface -- it starts in the "off" position and gets brighter the more you twist the ring.


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## Z-Tab (Apr 10, 2012)

scout24 said:


> This, and the "regular" RRT-01 are approaching my personal ideal in an EDC light.



I agree completely. As much as I understand the value of having a clicky+rotary control, the simplicity of the T1A makes the UI far superior to the other variable options for me (not that the others I've tried are bad, just not as straightforward). I think a variable light is best for applications that tend toward the lows end of the ring anyway, so starting at low makes complete sense to me.

This is the first and only Jetbeam that appeals to me. I'm still a little nervous about them, having read plenty of complaints from people that were disappointed by broken or faulty lights that their QA department missed. I really hope they've sorted out their issues.


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## fabienne (Apr 10, 2012)

I agree regarding the simplicity of T1A UI. The thing about super-low flashlight because we seek the lowest output so as not to disturb others either in dark places or in bedroom and we tend to use the lowest as the first choice.



Z-Tab said:


> I agree completely. As much as I understand the value of having a clicky+rotary control, the simplicity of the T1A makes the UI far superior to the other variable options for me (not that the others I've tried are bad, just not as straightforward). I think a variable light is best for applications that tend toward the lows end of the ring anyway, so starting at low makes complete sense to me.
> 
> This is the first and only Jetbeam that appeals to me. I'm still a little nervous about them, having read plenty of complaints from people that were disappointed by broken or faulty lights that their QA department missed. I really hope they've sorted out their issues.


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## aau007 (Apr 10, 2012)

Wah!!! Glad I held off on the SWM Ti+. I might even consider selling my SWM Ti2 to get this.


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## F250XLT (Apr 10, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Wah!!! Glad I held off on the SWM Ti+. I might even consider selling my SWM Ti2 to get this.




I might be a buyer :naughty:


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## f22shift (Apr 10, 2012)

it's beautiful!

i think the key ring thing is fine. you need a wriststrap attachment point. i hope this is really expensive so i don't regret ti+ purchase. or do i not hope so i can pick this one up too..


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## aau007 (Apr 11, 2012)

There is a site in Germany listing the light at 199 Euro and the SWM Ti+ at 197 Euro.

If JB sells this at the same price as the SWM Ti+, I will definitely go for JB. JB has a lot more experience with Ti lights.


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## F250XLT (Apr 11, 2012)

I think this will be a $200+ light.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 11, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> There are two kinds of twisty interfaces -- progressive-twist and multi-twist. Multi-twist is the kind cheap lights use where the user has to twist the light on and off repeatedly to change modes -- essentially a multi-click UI retrofitted to a twisty light to save space and cut cost. Progressive-twist is what the Muyshondt Aeon, McGizmo PD, Arc6, and Surefire T1 lights use, where the light gets progressively brighter as the user twists the head.
> 
> The RRT-01/TC-R1 may use an electronic sensor to adjust the brightness, instead of a pressure-sensitive mechanism like the other lights I listed, but it's still a progressive-twist interface -- it starts in the "off" position and gets brighter the more you twist the ring.



Not quite. Even with a progressive twist light there aren't stops at each end of the turn. You can screw a QTC light with progressive twist in, but when you unscrew it, you'll have to stop on your own. If you don't stop on your own the top will unscrew completely and come off. Also the travel distance is probably much longer than on a the Jetbeam.

In contrast, with the magnetic ring, the Jetbeam has a fixed 120 travel distance. Even if you turn the ring fairly hard either direction, the light won't come apart. There's a hard stop at each end so you can't turn it too far. It doesn't feel at all like a true twisty light. It's a truly great interface.


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## aau007 (Apr 11, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I think this will be a $200+ light.


You might be suprised.

If the Euro dealer lists the same price between the tcr1 and ti+ and ti+ sells at $168 on this side of pond, what would you think? But then, even at $200, I think it is a good deal. At least history says JB's TI lights are not tweaker lights like the SWM ti2 and ti+.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 11, 2012)

Z-Tab said:


> This is the first and only Jetbeam that appeals to me. I'm still a little nervous about them, having read plenty of complaints from people that were disappointed by broken or faulty lights that their QA department missed. I really hope they've sorted out their issues.


I've never had a Jetbeam that was less than top-quality, and I've owned:

Jet-1
Jet-2
Jet-3 M
M1X
E2P
E3S
BK135A
PC-25
RRT-0
TC-R2 (3x, one gifted)

I've sold most of them, but that's because I get twitchy about possibly damaging anodized coatings. The steel and titanium lights I still have.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 11, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> If I had to level any criticism at the design, it would be threefold:
> 1. The keyring attachment is not useful on a light this large, so skip it and make the light smaller.
> 2. Put the knurled part of the body on the sides and put the smooth part of the body under the clip.
> 3. Use a textured reflector.


Yes, yes and yes.

I would love to have seen a switch back there rather than the attachment point myself, but nothing would be fine too. However my biggest personal gripe would have to be the reflector.


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## roadkill1109 (Apr 11, 2012)

JETBEAM UPDATE: ALL 1000 units are already accounted for. 

When I asked, most of the major Jetbeam distributors have already purchased them. 

So right out of the factory, directly shipped out. 

Check out your local distributor for availability.


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## jalal20 (Apr 11, 2012)

going gear has them on preorder, they are expecting them on the 17th


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## HIDblue (Apr 11, 2012)

jalal20 said:


> going gear has them on preorder, they are expecting them on the 17th



Good find jalal...tempting, very tempting...


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## Univtex34 (Apr 11, 2012)

jalal20 said:


> going gear has them on preorder, they are expecting them on the 17th



I preordered one. My first Ti light, and after getting my V11R, and being disappointed with the tail switch, I think this is just what the doctor ordered.


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## jalal20 (Apr 11, 2012)

Man I am keeping my self from ordering this since I went crazy this month with the ti+ , hds and tm11 plus batteries and other accessories so no place for this although its very tempting



HIDblue said:


> Good find jalal...tempting, very tempting...


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## dlmorgan999 (Apr 11, 2012)

Pre-ordered from GG - thanks for the pointer!!


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## aau007 (Apr 11, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I think this will be a $200+ light.



haha. I am right, you are wrong. I don't have to sell me Ti2 anymore. :naughty:


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## F250XLT (Apr 11, 2012)

aau007 said:


> haha. I am right, you are wrong. I don't have to sell me Ti2 anymore. :naughty:


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## HIDblue (Apr 11, 2012)

jalal20 said:


> Man I am keeping my self from ordering this since I went crazy this month with the ti+ , hds and tm11 plus batteries and other accessories so no place for this although its very tempting



You're one worse off than I am. I also went for the Ti+ and TM11 + batts, but no HDS. It's been a horrible month, but I'm very satisfied with the TM11 purchase. Don't have the Ti+ yet. 

As tempting as the TCR01 looks and sounds, I may have to show some restraint and hold off on this one...


----------



## fyrstormer (Apr 11, 2012)

Wow. Over a $60 price difference between vendors. I wonder if it's all because of profiteering or if the factory is doing what Chinese factories generally do: selling the out-of-spec units at a lower price than the top-quality units.


----------



## fyrstormer (Apr 11, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Not quite. Even with a progressive twist light there aren't stops at each end of the turn. You can screw a QTC light with progressive twist in, but when you unscrew it, you'll have to stop on your own. If you don't stop on your own the top will unscrew completely and come off. Also the travel distance is probably much longer than on a the Jetbeam.
> 
> In contrast, with the magnetic ring, the Jetbeam has a fixed 120 travel distance. Even if you turn the ring fairly hard either direction, the light won't come apart. There's a hard stop at each end so you can't turn it too far. It doesn't feel at all like a true twisty light. It's a truly great interface.


I know what the control-ring interface feels like; I own several and use them daily.

Not all twisty lights combine the twist mechanism with the opening to change the batteries, so not all of them will have the head fall off if you twist too far. I understand the point you're making, but it doesn't apply to twisty lights across the board.


----------



## jalal20 (Apr 11, 2012)

Whos selling it for more than 180? I was hoping to find it for less actually. And the no discount code is BAD



fyrstormer said:


> Wow. Over a $60 price difference between vendors. I wonder if it's all because of profiteering or if the factory is doing what Chinese factories generally do: selling the out-of-spec units at a lower price than the top-quality units.


----------



## fyrstormer (Apr 11, 2012)

jalal20 said:


> Whos selling it for more than 180? I was hoping to find it for less actually. And the no discount code is BAD


Bugoutgear is currently asking ~$234, "down" from a "normal" price of ~$260. It could be profiteering, or it could be they're getting a shipment of the best-quality units the factory has produced, or it could be some other reason. No way to tell without waiting for people to buy them and then doing a quality-control survey.

I'm not surprised there's no discount code on pre-orders. I mean really, discounts are for clearing old stock, and this isn't even _in_ stock yet. If they were offering a discount on it already, I'd be nervous that they know there's something wrong with the design and they're trying to sweeten the deal.

They'll probably sell just fine with no discount. By the time I found out the TC-R2 was available, all the US dealers were already sold out, and I had to track down a dealer in Canada that still had a few in stock.


----------



## jalal20 (Apr 11, 2012)

I dont think GG would settle for second grade lights but I will check with them to confirm it



fyrstormer said:


> Bugoutgear is currently asking ~$234, "down" from a "normal" price of ~$260. It could be profiteering, or it could be they're getting a shipment of the best-quality units the factory has produced, or it could be some other reason. No way to tell without waiting for people to buy them and then doing a quality-control survey.


----------



## aau007 (Apr 11, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> Bugoutgear is currently asking ~$234, "down" from a "normal" price of ~$260.



Don't know why BOG changed their price. When I checked early this morning, it was at $199.99. Maybe they are gearing for Euro buyers. Euro sellers are listing the light for 199 Euro but that's with a 19% VAT.


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## F250XLT (Apr 11, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Don't know why BOG changed their price. When I checked early this morning, it was at $199.99. Maybe they are gearing for Euro buyers. Euro sellers are listing the light for 199 Euro but that's with a 19% VAT.




Sooooooo, I guess I was right after all...:nana:


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## fyrstormer (Apr 11, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Don't know why BOG changed their price. When I checked early this morning, it was at $199.99. Maybe they are gearing for Euro buyers. Euro sellers are listing the light for 199 Euro but that's with a 19% VAT.


199 Euros = 261 USD, so...


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## somnambulated (Apr 11, 2012)

Damn. The Ti version of the Jetbeam RRT-0 retailed for about $280 iirc, so while I was hoping this one would be cheaper, $250+ is right in line with that. Then again, wasn't that run limited to 500 pieces instead of 1000? Not sure how that really impacts price.


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## aau007 (Apr 11, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Sooooooo, I guess I was right after all...:nana:



Hmmm. LCD, Lowest Common Denominator, is $180 now. Any lower, anybody, lower? Can we get this cheaper than the SWM Ti+?



fyrstormer said:


> 199 Euros = 261 USD, so...



US$261 - 19% VAT is about $219. Selling at $234, they are splitting the 19% VAT.


PS. I WANT AA EXTENDER ON THIS but I know JB is not going to do it, just like the TCR2.

BTW, why do they name their lights backwards? TCR3, TCR2, now TCR1. Will there be a TCR0 and then no more?


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## jalal20 (Apr 11, 2012)

Guys the coupon code applies for bugoutgear in case no one noticed, they are giving 15% discount on it which accounts for about $35.25 which makes it at roughly 200$


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## F250XLT (Apr 11, 2012)

Still $20 higher than GG.


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## jalal20 (Apr 11, 2012)

I don't think there are any bad and good versions of the light or low and high quality. And I just got an email from GG, they don't have any info on whether it is low or high quality which means its the same. 
Please someone hack my router and deactivate it for the coming 10 days


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## F250XLT (Apr 11, 2012)

I just can't fall in love with this light as long as it has a smooth reflector...


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## recDNA (Apr 11, 2012)

Even if were a tactical type forward button wih no click I would like it. I wouldnt consider a light this big with no button for instant on. I like to preset the level I want with the ring then turn on with a button. Obviously most of you disagree. The bright side is I won't be competing with you guys for the limited number of lights available.


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## scottyhazzard (Apr 11, 2012)

$180 at goinggear, no discount allowed. Should be out like the 17th.

goinggear(dot)com/newest/?utm_source=4Sevens%2FOlight&utm_campaign=March+Newsletter&utm_medium=email

Change the red (dot) to a dot and it becomes a link, if you copy and paste - I try to follow rules.


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## F250XLT (Apr 11, 2012)

scottyhazzard said:


> $180 at goinggear, no discount allowed. Should be out like the 17th.
> 
> goinggear(dot)com/newest/?utm_source=4Sevens%2FOlight&utm_campaign=March+Newsletter&utm_medium=email
> 
> Change the red (dot) to a dot and it becomes a link, if you copy and paste - I try to follow rules.




Please stop helping me spend my money...


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## F250XLT (Apr 11, 2012)

Alright damnit, you guys seriously need to stop helping me spend my money...I just pre-ordered one of these.


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## aau007 (Apr 11, 2012)

Is there any information as to whether this light is going to be numbered?


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## scottyhazzard (Apr 11, 2012)

1 to 1000


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## F250XLT (Apr 11, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Is there any information as to whether this light is going to be numbered?



I read in one of the threads here that they will be...


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## fyrstormer (Apr 11, 2012)

aau007 said:


> BTW, why do they name their lights backwards? TCR3, TCR2, now TCR1. Will there be a TCR0 and then no more?


It's because each one is smaller than the last. If they made a titanium version of the M2S or the RRT-3, I expect it would be called the TC-R4.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 11, 2012)

recDNA said:


> Even if were a tactical type forward button wih no click I would like it. I wouldnt consider a light this big with no button for instant on. I like to preset the level I want with the ring then turn on with a button. Obviously most of you disagree. The bright side is I won't be competing with you guys for the limited number of lights available.


I agree with your preference for a control ring + a clicky switch. This light is just targeted at a different market niche, that's all.


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## somnambulated (Apr 12, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> How do you work the ring one handed while using the cigar grip?



I don't believe I claimed you could, but pushing a button in cigar hold seemed more convenient than twisting a head ring. Now that I've had a chance to play with the SWM V10r+, I can see how just having the control ring is a better interface.

...Especially compared to the ridiculously stiff tail switch is on the V10r. Add to that the binding issues on the Ti switch cap, and the thin factory clip that came broken at one of the two screw holes, and I went ahead and preordered a Jetbeam TCR-01.


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## Ragnar66 (Apr 12, 2012)

double post


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## Ragnar66 (Apr 12, 2012)

So it looks like these are still available? Anyone know? I was able to get one yesterday evening from bj or gg but had heard that they were all out? Anyone try today? Curious to see how fast they move.....


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## F250XLT (Apr 12, 2012)

I preordered mine from LJ.


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## nakahoshi (Apr 12, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I preordered mine from LJ.



Me too, glad the discount worked :thumbsup: 

I just received the RRT01 today and I knew I had to get this in Titanium

-Bobby


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## Mtbmurf (Apr 12, 2012)

nakahoshi said:


> Me too, glad the discount worked :thumbsup:
> 
> I just received the RRT01 today and I knew I had to get this in Titanium
> 
> -Bobby


Same here... Damn these new shiney ti items....


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## fyrstormer (Apr 13, 2012)

Titanium is expensive, but assuming you find one you really like, you can keep using it basically forever. I've been carrying my TC-R2 for about 15 months and the only noticeable change is the surface is less shiny.


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## jalal20 (Apr 14, 2012)

I had to get one of those as well, got it from GG and I think its a keeper


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## LumensMaximus (Apr 14, 2012)

Could not resist, even though I'm not a twisty fan, I also love the TCR2.


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## tatteredmidnight (Apr 14, 2012)

Oh this is tempting. Just got a v10r Ti+ and taxes are kicking my *** (self-employment has its disadvantages). It looks really lovely and i like the twisty interface. Why do these companies have to keep doing this to me.


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## HIDblue (Apr 14, 2012)

tatteredmidnight said:


> Why do these companies have to keep doing this to me.



That's exactly what I was thinking. Everytime I buy a new light, thinking it will be my last purchase for a while, they come out with something irresistable. It's easy to resist some of the newer lights that come out since they aren't necessarily brighter or have a better UI than the lights I currently have, but when they bust out a Titanium version like the TCR01 with an unusual UI...wow, I feel my Paypal account dwindling. 

I missed out on the last Jetbeam TCR2 go around...so I may have to pull the trigger on the TCR01


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## LumensMaximus (Apr 15, 2012)

nakahoshi said:


> Me too, glad the discount worked :thumbsup:
> 
> I just received the RRT01 today and I knew I had to get this in Titanium
> 
> -Bobby



I have one in the mail but the suspense is killing me "I's gots to know" how is it?


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## F250XLT (Apr 16, 2012)

Received a shipping notice from LJ, looks like it's on it's way...


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## nakahoshi (Apr 16, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Received a shipping notice from LJ, looks like it's on it's way...



Mine Too.


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## Fitz (Apr 16, 2012)

Got mine this morning as well, good stuff!


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## F250XLT (Apr 16, 2012)

Should we get ahead of the game, and start the complaint thread now? :laughing:


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## nakahoshi (Apr 16, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Should we get ahead of the game, and start the complaint thread now? :laughing:



I cancelled my order for a V10Ti+ so I hope this one is better received.

I know for a fact the tail switch on this one wont be an issue 



-Bobby


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## jalal20 (Apr 16, 2012)

Fitz said:


> Got mine this morning as well, good stuff!



Photos or it didnt happen .. Kiddin but can you give us ur first impressions and some photos(when it arrives off course)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## aau007 (Apr 16, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Should we get ahead of the game, and start the complaint thread now? :laughing:



Not so much of a compain but I got a complete kicked of the shipping notice.

Status: delivered

Then it said delivered means shipped.


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## jalal20 (Apr 16, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Not so much of a compain but I got a complete kicked of the shipping notice.
> 
> Status: delivered
> 
> Then it said delivered means shipped.



Check the date of delivery that it states. Sometimes its an old tracking number that hasnt been updated yet, it happened to me with a recent package


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ZombieBrooke (Apr 16, 2012)

LJ uses a strange system that flags your order as delivered when it is shipped. Dunno why...

Edit: Got my email today as well!


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## Univtex34 (Apr 16, 2012)

Any of the GoingGear orders shipped yet?


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## senna94 (Apr 16, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Received a shipping notice from LJ, looks like it's on it's way...



+1


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## aau007 (Apr 16, 2012)

I just hope I can get it before Friday.


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## HighlanderNorth (Apr 16, 2012)

Granted it looks cool, its made of Ti, it's limited edition and all.............But it's way overpriced for what you get. Its just the Ti version of the RRT-01, which is made of aluminum and isnt new. Even the RRT-01 is overpriced for what it is. 

The TCR-01 is $180! You can get another Jetbeam FL with similar features and power for almost 1/3 that price....

Its for that reason I wouldnt buy it. I do like the look of it though, but I'd buy an RRT-21 for $110 or so. It gets better battery life and is infinitely adjustable.


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## F250XLT (Apr 16, 2012)

HighlanderNorth said:


> The TCR-01 is $180!




Not sure who paid that much, but I certainly didn't...


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## Fitz (Apr 16, 2012)

HighlanderNorth said:


> Granted it looks cool, its made of Ti, it's limited edition and all.............But it's way overpriced for what you get. Its just the Ti version of the RRT-01, which is made of aluminum and isnt new. Even the RRT-01 is overpriced for what it is.
> 
> The TCR-01 is $180! You can get another Jetbeam FL with similar features and power for almost 1/3 that price....
> 
> Its for that reason I wouldnt buy it. I do like the look of it though, but I'd buy an RRT-21 for $110 or so. It gets better battery life and is infinitely adjustable.



OK... that's the great thing about choices, you can choose something else! What's "way overpriced" to you may be worth every penny to someone else.

Couple things though:
1. The RRT-01 has only been out less than a month, that seems pretty new to me.
2. The RRT-21 is a 2 cell light, so yes, it gets better battery life than the 1 cell RRT-01/TCR-01.
3. Both the RRT-21 and RRT-01/TCR-01 are "infinitely adjustable", no difference there.
4. a $75.00 premium for a titanium version isn't much for the actual materials/machining costs.
5. It's titanium. TITANIUM SHINY!


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## aau007 (Apr 16, 2012)

HighlanderNorth said:


> Granted it looks cool, its made of Ti, it's limited edition and all.............But it's way overpriced for what you get. Its just the Ti version of the RRT-01, which is made of aluminum and isnt new. Even the RRT-01 is overpriced for what it is.
> 
> The TCR-01 is $180! You can get another Jetbeam FL with similar features and power for almost 1/3 that price....
> 
> Its for that reason I wouldnt buy it. I do like the look of it though, but I'd buy an RRT-21 for $110 or so. It gets better battery life and is infinitely adjustable.



The same logic can be applied to the SWM Ti+. Except the Ti+ is about 100% more than its AL version, V10r, which you can get for $82. Bet you did not buy the Ti+ if you have that logic.

rrt21 is infinitely adjustable, so is rrt0-s2, rrt0-xml, rrt01, tcr1.


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## nakahoshi (Apr 16, 2012)

Well said Fitz.


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## ZombieBrooke (Apr 16, 2012)

Fitz said:


> TITANIUM SHINY!



+1


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## kdhope1 (Apr 17, 2012)

I just ordered mine from LJ. disc. code worked..now the wait begins!..kelly


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## fyrstormer (Apr 17, 2012)

HighlanderNorth said:


> Granted it looks cool, its made of Ti, it's limited edition and all.............But it's way overpriced for what you get. Its just the Ti version of the RRT-01, which is made of aluminum and isnt new. Even the RRT-01 is overpriced for what it is.
> 
> The TCR-01 is $180! You can get another Jetbeam FL with similar features and power for almost 1/3 that price....
> 
> Its for that reason I wouldnt buy it. I do like the look of it though, but I'd buy an RRT-21 for $110 or so. It gets better battery life and is infinitely adjustable.


I can buy two TC-R1's for less than the cost of a McGizmo, and get a twisty interface with infinitely-variable brightness. McGizmo offers neither. And I can beat the hell out of it for years without it suffering at all. Seems like a good deal to me.


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## HIDblue (Apr 17, 2012)

I'm curious to see what the difference will be between the Sunwayman V10R Ti+ and the TCR-01 with regard to the Titanium fit and finish.


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## aau007 (Apr 17, 2012)

I might be getting ahead of myself.

As far as I understand, this is the titanium version of the rrt01. I read the rrt01 can be used with 18350 battery. Is it safe to assume that the tcr1 can be used with a 18350 also?

Then, if it fits a 18350, anyone think of making a 18650 extender? Or does it not make sense because you cannot run the light at max for extended amount of time because of heat anyways.


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## Ragnar66 (Apr 17, 2012)

mine did today


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## F250XLT (Apr 17, 2012)

Package was accepted at the PO, one step closer...


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## clintb (Apr 17, 2012)

Mine went from Going Gear today!


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## nuphoria (Apr 17, 2012)

clintb said:


> Mine went from Going Gear today!



Cool.... hopefully mine isn't too far behind


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## emu124 (Apr 17, 2012)

clintb said:


> Mine went from Going Gear today!



:thumbsup: mine is on it's way too


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## Larbo (Apr 17, 2012)

I just put my order in for one..


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 17, 2012)

emu124 said:


> :thumbsup: mine is on it's way too



Darn. Mine hasn't shipped from Goinggear yet


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## Larbo (Apr 17, 2012)

LJ is down to 24 left now......


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## jalal20 (Apr 17, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Darn. Mine hasn't shipped from Goinggear yet



Me too 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## kdhope1 (Apr 17, 2012)

aau007 said:


> I might be getting ahead of myself.
> 
> As far as I understand, this is the titanium version of the rrt01. I read the rrt01 can be used with 18350 battery. Is it safe to assume that the tcr1 can be used with a 18350 also?
> 
> Then, if it fits a 18350, anyone think of making a 18650 extender? Or does it not make sense because you cannot run the light at max for extended amount of time because of heat anyways.


Yes,that would be a really good idea ,we may have to lobby the company for that..kelly


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## kdhope1 (Apr 17, 2012)

kdhope1 said:


> I just ordered mine from LJ. disc. code worked..now the wait begins!..kelly


Received a. Shipping notice this AM.,that was quick.
Hopefully customs doesn't play with it for took long!..kelly


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## dlmorgan999 (Apr 17, 2012)

clintb said:


> Mine went from Going Gear today!



Mine too!  I suspect the flood gates are open now and others who have ordered from GG will see theirs ship today or tomorrow.


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## Fitz (Apr 17, 2012)

aau007 said:


> I might be getting ahead of myself.
> 
> As far as I understand, this is the titanium version of the rrt01. I read the rrt01 can be used with 18350 battery. Is it safe to assume that the tcr1 can be used with a 18350 also?
> 
> Then, if it fits a 18350, anyone think of making a 18650 extender? Or does it not make sense because you cannot run the light at max for extended amount of time because of heat anyways.



We should know by tomorrow if the TCR also accepts 18350's, I don't think anyone has one in their hands yet. An 18650 extender would be sweet but costly in Ti if someone where to take that project on and being a limited edition I'm not sure how many they expect to sell. I'd buy one if the price was right though!


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## Larbo (Apr 17, 2012)

Fitz said:


> I'd buy one if the price was right though!



Me to.


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## aau007 (Apr 17, 2012)

Fitz said:


> We should know by tomorrow if the TCR also accepts 18350's, I don't think anyone has one in their hands yet. An 18650 extender would be sweet but costly in Ti if someone where to take that project on and being a limited edition I'm not sure how many they expect to sell. I'd buy one if the price was right though!


Well, the SWM Ti+ AA extender is going for $18. Given a 18650 extender will be wider and longer, I guess up to $50 is acceptable to me. No need for any fancy knurling, just a simple extender, maybe with some flat surface as rolling stopper?


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## Ragnar66 (Apr 17, 2012)

Gonna be hard not to open the package...... I'm lookin to trade mine.....


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## Fitz (Apr 17, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Well, the SWM Ti+ AA extender is going for $18. Given a 18650 extender will be wider and longer, I guess up to $50 is acceptable to me. No need for any fancy knurling, just a simple extender, maybe with some flat surface as rolling stopper?



It would be ideal if Jetbeam were to make some 18650 extenders, but it seems like a longshot with setup cost for such a small batch. More likely it would take a small shop and resulting higher cost. Possibly MUCH higher cost looking at some previous and current projects for Ti battery tubes.


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## Helicycle (Apr 18, 2012)

Mine shipped today as well from goinggear. Looking forward to it, should be a nice edc light.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 18, 2012)

jvc55349 said:


> Gonna be hard not to open the package...... I'm lookin to trade mine.....


If it's packaged like every other Jetbeam then it will come in a cardboard box with a magnetic clasp, or a plastic box with a plastic clasp. Either way, you can open it to check proper functionality, then trade it or return it for RMA if it's broken.


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## HighlanderNorth (Apr 18, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Not sure who paid that much, but I certainly didn't...



How much did you get it for? If the price is right, I'd buy one. As I said in the 1st post, I like the way it looks, I like the fact that it's made of Ti and all, I just dont know if I want to spend an extra bunch of money, cause I have other, more pressing (garbage) to spend that money on right now. Like a plane ticket to FL for vacation next month, a better laser than the inexpensive 3 pack of green, red and violet lasers I got in a few days ago(30mW, 40mW, <100mW respectively), now I want a 200mW green one, a new picatinny scope mount adapter rail, and, I want(not need) an Eagletac G25C2, and thats all aside from my regular bills, which are high now.

If someone wants to help me pay for that other stuff, I'll gladly buy the Ti flashlight! Do we have a deal?


----------



## HighlanderNorth (Apr 18, 2012)

aau007 said:


> The same logic can be applied to the SWM Ti+. Except the Ti+ is about 100% more than its AL version, V10r, which you can get for $82. Bet you did not buy the Ti+ if you have that logic.
> 
> rrt21 is infinitely adjustable, so is rrt0-s2, rrt0-xml, rrt01, tcr1.



It wouldve been difficult to buy the SWM Ti+, considering I'd never heard of it til now.....But, I did try to look it up to see some info on it by doing a basic Google search for: "SWM Ti+ for sale", and I got nothing except 2 posts from here talking about it, but no sellers on the google list. I guess it just came out...... I looked up the Skilhunt lights a while ago, and they were so new I couldnt find any sellers for them either at that time.......


----------



## fyrstormer (Apr 18, 2012)

The official name is "Sunwayman V10R Ti+". It is currently experiencing reconstructive surgery after some birth defects.

Anyway, as I said before, the benefit of titanium is you can treat it like crap and it won't care. Even the cheap alloys are nearly as strong as steel and half the weight, and the good alloys are much stronger than steel and still half the weight. If that's worth something to you, great; if not, great.

For me, the advantage of titanium is I can buy a light I like the look of, use it for years, and still have it look good. Whereas, if I were to buy the aluminum version, I would have to buy at least two because the anodizing will wear off the one I use and it will look much worse for wear. Just buying another one in a couple years isn't a viable option because there is no guarantee there will be any lights I like at that point. I already went through that once with Arc Flashlight. So a single light I can enjoy using for years without concern is certainly worth the cost of multiple lights that will wear out faster and I might never be able to find again.


----------



## kaichu dento (Apr 18, 2012)

HighlanderNorth said:


> Granted it looks cool, its made of Ti, it's limited edition and all.............But it's way overpriced for what you get. Its just the Ti version of the RRT-01, which is made of aluminum and isnt new. Even the RRT-01 is overpriced for what it is.
> 
> The TCR-01 is $180! You can get another Jetbeam FL with similar features and power for almost 1/3 that price....
> 
> Its for that reason I wouldnt buy it. I do like the look of it though, but I'd buy an RRT-21 for $110 or so. It gets better battery life and is infinitely adjustable.





HighlanderNorth said:


> If someone wants to help me pay for that other stuff, I'll gladly buy the Ti flashlight! Do we have a deal?


It sounds like you're having a hard time making up your mind, but more importantly you probably shouldn't be looking for more things to add to your financial problems. This is the first time I've ever said this, but you may want to talk to someone about your buying habits.


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## Ragnar66 (Apr 18, 2012)

damn double


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## Ragnar66 (Apr 18, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> If it's packaged like every other Jetbeam then it will come in a cardboard box with a magnetic clasp, or a plastic box with a plastic clasp. Either way, you can open it to check proper functionality, then trade it or return it for RMA if it's broken.



I'm scared I might not want to trade it off if I start it up!


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## aau007 (Apr 18, 2012)

My tracking just changed status to "Out for delivery".

Frantically charging battery now.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 18, 2012)

aau007 said:


> My tracking just changed status to "Out for delivery".
> 
> Frantically charging battery now.


I have this mental image of you madly sprinting on a treadmill connected to a generator connected to a battery charger. That's the only way I can imagine anyone "frantically" charging a battery.


----------



## fyrstormer (Apr 18, 2012)

jvc55349 said:


> I'm scared I might not want to trade it off if I start it up!


That is an entirely different problem. :devil:

I would not buy a light from a private seller unless they could prove it works. Since I wouldn't be the original owner, I wouldn't have the option to RMA the light if it doesn't work. Admittedly not everyone thinks the way I do, but your pool of potential customers gets dramatically smaller if you can't guarantee the product you're selling actually works.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 18, 2012)

aau007 said:


> My tracking just changed status to "Out for delivery".
> 
> Frantically charging battery now.



GRRR

Still waiting for my shipping notice from Going Gear 

*taps foot impatiently*


----------



## jalal20 (Apr 18, 2012)

They told me that the batch they received was not enough to cover all orders so now we have to wait more and they didn't specify a time frame and this is actually a bit frustrating since I tend to be attached mentally on the date I was promised off 



Fireclaw18 said:


> GRRR
> 
> Still waiting for my shipping notice from Going Gear
> 
> *taps foot impatiently*


----------



## F250XLT (Apr 18, 2012)

aau007 said:


> My tracking just changed status to "Out for delivery".
> 
> Frantically charging battery now.




Mine still shows as leaving NC


----------



## Ragnar66 (Apr 18, 2012)

I think your right. I will have to check it out! I'll wear gloves.......


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## aau007 (Apr 18, 2012)

jalal20 said:


> They told me that the batch they received was not enough to cover all orders so now we have to wait more and they didn't specify a time frame and this is actually a bit frustrating since I tend to be attached mentally on the date I was promised off


Call LJ to see if they have stock to ship out today. If so, cancel GG and order from LJ.


----------



## jalal20 (Apr 18, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Call LJ to see if they have stock to ship out today. If so, cancel GG and order from LJ.



LJ doesnt ship to my country and I don't like their CS


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## aau007 (Apr 18, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> I have this mental image of you madly sprinting on a treadmill connected to a generator connected to a battery charger. That's the only way I can imagine anyone "frantically" charging a battery.


"Frantically" as in:

1. I have more lights than batteries, so I had to take them out from other lights, which were partially charged.
2. I had to leave for work so I had to quick charge the batteries to get as much mah in in the shortest possible time.
3. I don't like leaving batteries in the charger charging when no one will be around if s*** hits the fan.
4. Most importantly, I need to bring the batteries with me since the light is out for delivery to my work place and I don't have any batteries there.


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## aau007 (Apr 18, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Mine still shows as leaving NC


I think my order was in front of yours and I know mine was processed late on Monday. In fact, it may have JUST made the Monday shipping cutoff.

BTW, as of late last night, my tracking still said NC and this morning, there were like 5 trackings showed up with the last one saying out for delivery. I was very skeptical last night when I saw tracking info still at NC but ETA said 4/18.


----------



## Larbo (Apr 18, 2012)

Order mine yesterday afternoon and got a tracking number this morning. 
Cannot wait.


----------



## Fireclaw18 (Apr 18, 2012)

Larbo said:


> Order mine yesterday afternoon and got a tracking number this morning.
> Cannot wait.



Where did you order from?


----------



## Fitz (Apr 18, 2012)

I didn't order from GG because they weren't accepting their discount for this light where other dealers were. Mine should hopefully arrive today.


----------



## Larbo (Apr 18, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Where did you order from?



LightJunction


----------



## Z-Tab (Apr 18, 2012)

I didn't get a tracking number from Going Gear, but Marshall told me that my light shipped. I guess it might depend on how you check out.


----------



## Fitz (Apr 18, 2012)

Mine just arrived, 18350's fit just fine. Lovely little light.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 18, 2012)

Just got a call back from Going Gear.

My light shipped out yesterday!! 

Hopefully I'll get it by the end of the week


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## fyrstormer (Apr 18, 2012)

aau007 said:


> "Frantically" as in:
> 
> 1. I have more lights than batteries, so I had to take them out from other lights, which were partially charged.
> 2. I had to leave for work so I had to quick charge the batteries to get as much mah in in the shortest possible time.
> ...


Your reasonable explanation is less funny than my imagined scenario. I win.


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## F250XLT (Apr 18, 2012)

Looks like mine was shipped via USPS First Class snail mail, not expected until the 20th :shakehead


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## Fitz (Apr 18, 2012)

I have to say, the tint isn't nearly as nice as my SWM V10R Ti+ U2 (or regular V10R T6). Very green compared to those two. Also the control ring isn't as smooth on mine, it has a little grittiness that hopefully will smooth out over time. The pocket clip is very sturdy, although the top sticks up a little higher that the chamfer on the tail of the light so there's a lip there. All in all it's still a nice light.


----------



## Larbo (Apr 18, 2012)

Green??? Noooooo, I hope they are not all green.


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## jalal20 (Apr 18, 2012)

Fitz said:


> I have to say, the tint isn't nearly as nice as my SWM V10R Ti+ U2 (or regular V10R T6). Very green compared to those two. Also the control ring isn't as smooth on mine, it has a little grittiness that hopefully will smooth out over time. The pocket clip is very sturdy, although the top sticks up a little higher that the chamfer on the tail of the light so there's a lip there. All in all it's still a nice light.



Can u please do like a comparison shot of the tints between the 3 of them . Nothing fancy just a quick one 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## F250XLT (Apr 18, 2012)

Larbo said:


> Green??? Noooooo, I hope they are not all green.




Gosh, I hope not....Not a huge fan of ringy green beams...


----------



## Fitz (Apr 18, 2012)

jalal20 said:


> Can u please do like a comparison shot of the tints between the 3 of them . Nothing fancy just a quick one
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I tried, crappy camera on my phone doesn't work well for beamshots. It's not awful, just noticeably greener than than those other lights. Midway between the SWM lights creamy white and my Zebralight SC600 green tint

They do have the xxx of 1000 laser etched on the head although it's a little hard to see.


----------



## jalal20 (Apr 18, 2012)

Fitz said:


> I tried, crappy camera on my phone doesn't work well for beamshots. It's not awful, just noticeably greener than than those other lights. Midway between the SWM lights creamy white and my Zebralight SC600 green tint
> 
> They do have the xxx of 1000 laser etched on the head although it's a little hard to see.



Well i have some time now to get more info since GG just notified me that its 1 to 2 weeks untill the next batch arrives


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## senna94 (Apr 18, 2012)

Larbo said:


> Green??? Noooooo, I hope they are not all green.



Worry not, some of them are purple. ))


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## nakahoshi (Apr 18, 2012)

How is the finish on these? (Compared to the V10R Ti+)

Tint wont bother me (Hint, Don't compare it next to another light, just USE it!) , and the gritty ring can be smoothed out with use (like my RRT-01). Tints are not nearly as bad as they used to be like original Luxeon 1w leds.

Should get mine tomorrow.

Pictures anyone??

-Bobby


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## HighlanderNorth (Apr 18, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> It sounds like you're having a hard time making up your mind, but more importantly you probably shouldn't be looking for more things to add to your financial problems. This is the first time I've ever said this, but you may want to talk to someone about your buying habits.



You've never spent money on a flashlight, or anything else that you didnt absolutely need? Do you think most people here truly need every flashlight they've bought over the years? I was joking around, because I realized that maybe my original post might've sounded a bit judgmental, when I said I thought the Ti light was overpriced. 

Thanks for your concern though, as I'm sure it was geniune, but I usually dont spend money on much stuff I dont need, it's just that my business has picked up big time for the 1st time in 3.5 years, and I'm making good money now, so I splurged a bit, and I'm taking my 1st vacation to my Florida condo in 4 years.


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## Fitz (Apr 18, 2012)

Finish looks great, my V10R Ti+ finish was great too other than some minor machining marks in the flats which don't bother me all. The two look almost identical to my eye, no difference in polish level at all.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 18, 2012)

Does the TC-R1 have any brass internal parts like the TC-R2 and TC-R3 have?


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## Fitz (Apr 18, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> Does the TC-R1 have any brass internal parts like the TC-R2 and TC-R3 have?



The module/heatsink is brass, no brass in the body portion. I don't have either of the others to compare what else might be brass in them.


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## aau007 (Apr 18, 2012)

Finally. One of those days I wish the postman would arrive early and he actually got here late today.

First 5 minutes observations and opinion.
1. The machining quality is better than the Ti2.
2. PLEASE keep the box. It has a label with model and serial number that matches the number on the light.
3. When you put the battery in, make sure the control ring is turned all the way to the left (off). Left as is emitter point away from you. Otherwise, you might get sparks from your battery. Also clean the screw threads.
4. With the SMO, there are some rings in the beam pattern.
5. The light gets HOT fast on max.
6. When I insert a 16340, there is a big gap in between the tube and the battery. I guess that's why the 18350 will fit. I was worry that the battery would rattle but it does not. I can hold the light and shake it sideways pretty hard and no rattle.
7. I got green tint but they seem to be more noticeable when the led is hot.


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## F250XLT (Apr 18, 2012)

What # did you get?

Did it arrive Priority, or First Class?


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## senna94 (Apr 18, 2012)

Mine has a snowy white tint. The best thing about these lights is that not only can you use 18350 cells but can also turn the wick extremely low on RCR cells. Most other lights will only go to their lowest output on primaries at the expense of a diminished high output. The only other light that I have seen with a low this low is the second generation SPY 007 with the newer board. However, the SPY 007 must be programmed with said output on a specific level. This baby can access all levels on the fly.


----------



## run4jc (Apr 18, 2012)

senna94 said:


> Mine has a snowy white tint. The best thing about these lights is that not only can you use 18350 cells but can also turn the wick extremely low on RCR cells. Most other lights will only go to their lowest output on primaries at the expense of a diminished high output. The only other light that I have seen with a low this low is the second generation SPY 007 with the newer board. However, the SPY 007 must be programmed with said output on a specific level. This baby can access all levels on the fly.



Thanks for the info, Paul. Mine should be here Friday - 

I know others have already reported, but how do _*you*_ assess the threads and the smoothness of the control ring? And do you also see the rings in the beam? I ordered a couple of reflectors from Wayne (following Scout24's lead) and plan to do a transplant anyway.

Snowy white sounds GREAT to me. Although I continue to love neutral tints, I have a real fondness for white tints like the Haiku XPG and the Malkoff M61s...

thanks!


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## senna94 (Apr 18, 2012)

run4jc said:


> Thanks for the info, Paul. Mine should be here Friday -
> 
> I know others have already reported, but how do _*you*_ assess the threads and the smoothness of the control ring? And do you also see the rings in the beam? I ordered a couple of reflectors from Wayne (following Scout24's lead) and plan to do a transplant anyway.
> 
> ...


----------



## kaichu dento (Apr 18, 2012)

HighlanderNorth said:


> ...I usually don't spend money on much stuff I don't need, it's just that my business has picked up big time for the 1st time in 3.5 years, and I'm making good money now, so I splurged a bit, and I'm taking my 1st vacation to my Florida condo in 4 years.


I used to make a purchase on the MarketPlace at such a rate that a couple other members got upset, but nowdays I hardly buy anything at all, as I still have too many lights, but more importantly, have very few needs.

It takes a pretty enticing product anymore to get me interested, and this light is one I'm very, very interested in. I hate to risk sending someone a bad suggestion, but I think if you get one of these you'll not regret it. In the case that you actually didn't like it, this will be one of those lights that you'd probably not have any trouble moving on the MarketPlace in short order, and then you'd at least have satiated your curiosity about it too.

Congrats on the upswing in your business - you must be doing more than one thing right, and should get this light too!


aau007 said:


> Finally. One of those days I wish the postman would arrive early and he actually got here late today.
> 
> First 5 minutes observations and opinion.
> 1. The machining quality is better than the Ti2.
> ...


Very welcome short review here and I'm glad you noted the battery loading procedure.

I think I'm going to get a couple 18350's, a new reflector and change the emitter, but still hope for a tint that's usable until I get around to feeling like sending it away - maybe I need to get two...


senna94 said:


> Mine has a snowy white tint. The best thing about these lights is that not only can you use 18350 cells but can also turn the wick extremely low on RCR cells. Most other lights will only go to their lowest output on primaries at the expense of a diminished high output. The only other light that I have seen with a low this low is the second generation SPY 007 with the newer board. However, the SPY 007 must be programmed with said output on a specific level. This baby can access all levels on the fly.


Snowy white tint sounds good, and having not thought about whether the light would go as low on the RCR cells am relieved to hear that it has no problems there.

The absolute low capability of this light is the exact reason I got rid of my RRT-0 right away, and the reason I ordered one (two?) of these.


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## aau007 (Apr 18, 2012)

senna94 said:


> Mine has a snowy white tint. The best thing about these lights is that not only can you use 18350 cells but can also turn the wick extremely low on RCR cells. Most other lights will only go to their lowest output on primaries at the expense of a diminished high output. The only other light that I have seen with a low this low is the second generation SPY 007 with the newer board. However, the SPY 007 must be programmed with said output on a specific level. This baby can access all levels on the fly.


Mine was also snow white when 1st lit up. The green tint starts showing when the light started to heat up after about 30 seconds to 1 min.


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## nakahoshi (Apr 18, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Mine was also snow white when 1st lit up. The green tint starts showing when the light started to heat up after about 30 seconds to 1 min.



Does it go back to snow white on lower output or has it permanently become green?


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## aau007 (Apr 18, 2012)

nakahoshi said:


> Does it go back to snow white on lower output or has it permanently become green?


After I let it cool down, it goes snow white, then heats up and green tint. Green tint seems to stay there as long as the light is hot. White wall only for now. Will have to wait till dark to test outdoor more.


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## Univtex34 (Apr 18, 2012)

Pictures????


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## Fitz (Apr 18, 2012)

In the real world, some green in the tint isn't going to be real noticeable, I'd rather that than angry blue or pink any day! My SC600 is greener than this one, it's not really noticeable unless you're pointing it at a white wall or comparing it directly with another light with a whiter tint. Neither of which is likely to occur when you actually need to use them. 

The search for the perfect light goes on, and that's half the fun of this crazy hobby.


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## aau007 (Apr 18, 2012)

Dang. I got my first titanium cut on my thumb.

I was trying to clean the black stuff out from the screw threads. So I wrap a towel paper around the threads and started turned the towel paper back and forth. Next thing I know, i felt something cut into my skin on my thumb and it still feels like crap like a paper cut after 30 min.


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## HIDblue (Apr 18, 2012)

Photos? Anyone? Please...


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## nakahoshi (Apr 18, 2012)

HIDblue said:


> Photos? Anyone? Please...




Most of the time people cant wait to get their pictures on here, I want to see one of these in the wild! 

If nothing shows up ill take some pictures of mine when it comes in tomorrow.

-Bobby


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## HIDblue (Apr 18, 2012)

nakahoshi said:


> Most of the time people cant wait to get their pictures on here, I want to see one of these in the wild!
> 
> If nothing shows up ill take some pictures of mine when it comes in tomorrow.
> 
> -Bobby



Thanks Bobby. Mine isn't expected until Friday so I'm a little antsy...


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## fyrstormer (Apr 18, 2012)

Fitz said:


> The module/heatsink is brass, no brass in the body portion. I don't have either of the others to compare what else might be brass in them.


The TC-R2 and TC-R3 have brass threads on one side, Ti threads on the other. After the brass breaks-in and mates with the Ti threads, it's smooth as silk. I'm hoping the TC-R1 has one set of brass threads as well, but I won't be heartbroken if it doesn't.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 18, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Dang. I got my first titanium cut on my thumb.
> 
> I was trying to clean the black stuff out from the screw threads. So I wrap a towel paper around the threads and started turned the towel paper back and forth. Next thing I know, i felt something cut into my skin on my thumb and it still feels like crap like a paper cut after 30 min.


You might have a titanium sliver caught under the skin.

Next time, clean the threads with Scotch Brite the first time, to scrub off any sharp bits. Titanium is notorious for producing razor-sharp ribbons during machining processes.


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## Fitz (Apr 18, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> The TC-R2 and TC-R3 have brass threads on one side, Ti threads on the other. After the brass breaks-in and mates with the Ti threads, it's smooth as silk. I'm hoping the TC-R1 has one set of brass threads as well, but I won't be heartbroken if it doesn't.



No brass threads, but the only time you'd be unscrewing the head is to swap/charge the battery so not sure it's a big deal. No noticeable galling when screwing the head on with my sample.


----------



## aau007 (Apr 18, 2012)

Some quick pics: I am not posting the tcr1 alone, you can get that everywhere.


TCR1 vs Sunwayman Ti2 in size









This is the lowest I can get to on both lights without turning them off or visually thinking it is off.












Now I am not going to tell you and you can guess which one is ti2 vs tcr1. The light bulb is my 50W equ. LED bulb in warm. Both lights have the same age Ultrafire 16340 with similar charge level.


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## Z-Tab (Apr 18, 2012)

That's low! Gotta say, if that tint is the biggest thing to complain about, I'm not at all worried about the quality of this light.


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## F250XLT (Apr 18, 2012)

I'm hoping to win the tint lottery...


----------



## peterharvey73 (Apr 18, 2012)

aau007, is the TCR1 the white wall shot beam on the right???


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## aau007 (Apr 18, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> aau007, is the TCR1 the white wall shot beam on the right???


Yes. The hotspot on the TCR1 is more defined, plus the ring but that does not bother me.


----------



## aau007 (Apr 18, 2012)

One more thing I experienced.

When unloading battery, grip the body and the top of the head. If you have too big of a grab in the head, you will end up turning on the light as the control ring turns the same direction to turn on the light as unscrewing the head from body.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 18, 2012)

Do I lose points if I can't guess which one is which?

It's reassuring to see that the beam looks okay in that picture.


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## aau007 (Apr 19, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> Do I lose points if I can't guess which one is which?
> 
> It's reassuring to see that the beam looks okay in that picture.


No, no points lost. Just mean you don't have a SWM Ti2, nor you have a TCR1. :naughty:

Since the beam shot was only about 5 feet from the ceiling, you don't really see the ring of the TCR1, which is more pronounced than the Ti2.


----------



## kaichu dento (Apr 19, 2012)

aau007 said:


> TCR1 vs Sunwayman Ti2 in size
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'll say that the TCR-1 is on the right in the bottom pic - several posters had reported greenish tint, but it looks good enough for now.

Like the comparison of the lights and there's something much more 3-dimensional about the TCR-1 that I'm liking, not to mention the Gollum-like ultra-low setting!


----------



## aau007 (Apr 19, 2012)

You can see the rings comparison better in these photos.

TCR1:








Ti2:


----------



## aau007 (Apr 19, 2012)

TCR1 pics with the head and body with 16340. You can see the space still available. Then there is that plastic ring around the positive contact that any flat top battery probably won't work with the light.








I don't have any 18350 but I put a 18650 in the body tube just to show how a 18xx0 battery will fit, width wise. Someone should really make a 18650 extender or just another one piece 18650 battery tube for this.


----------



## fyrstormer (Apr 19, 2012)

Oh well, it has Ti-on-Ti threads. Too bad, the brass-on-Ti threads in the TC-R2 and TC-R3 are very nice. Not a dealbreaker though.

Looks like I'll get to play with my stockpile of reflectors to come up with a cleaner beam.

For those of us (like me) who won't be using 18mm batteries, Oveready sells 16-to-18mm shims.


----------



## kaichu dento (Apr 19, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> Looks like I'll get to play with my stockpile of reflectors to come up with a cleaner beam.
> 
> For those of us (like me) who won't be using 18mm batteries, Oveready sells 16-to-18mm shims.


I wonder if any of the OP reflectors from Jetbeam would work as drop-ins - say the RRT-0?

I'm planning on getting a couple 18350's for mine, as I can't see any reason other than proliferation of battery sizes to opt out of the greater capacity, and longer runtime for high.


----------



## Z-Tab (Apr 19, 2012)

Nice to see that the 18350 will fit. I think an 18500 extender (maybe with a ring of trits) would be the sweet spot, as I worry that it might get a bit too long with an 18650. With an 18500, it looks like it will be just about the same length as the Sunwayman.


----------



## nakahoshi (Apr 19, 2012)

Just got it! 

Some Quick things to note:
-Tint is awesome (No Green)
-Control Ring is Smmooooth, Way nicer than my RRT-01. I was expecting a gritty ring but its great!
-Finish is perfect

Here is #120














Very Satisfied! :devil:

-Bobby


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## peterharvey73 (Apr 19, 2012)

Marshall has a lovely youtube video showing the performance of the RRT-01 on both primary disposables, and an AW RCR 16340:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbK2iiF6qpQ


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## Theatre Booth Guy (Apr 19, 2012)

Mine (0078) arrived one day early - thank you (not so) snail mail! Having been dreaming about a Ti light for a long time, this seemed like the perfect "first step" thank's to the LJ discount and the fact that a few days with my RRT 01 had me quite happy. Just like Bobby noted above, the control ring on the TCR 01 is far smoother than that on the RRT 01. The detent for "off" is much softer on the TCR 01. Compared to the aluminum version, I much prefer the style of the Ti with pineapple to grip, notches/shallow grooves in the control ring and everything else smooth. One extra note of happiness is that my 0078 Ti tailstands perfectly - no protrusion of the center post in the tail!

Have to head to work now but this is going with me


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## HighlanderNorth (Apr 19, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Some quick pics: I am not posting the tcr1 alone, you can get that everywhere.
> 
> 
> TCR1 vs Sunwayman Ti2 in size
> ...




Was gold anodizing an option on the Sunwayman Ti flashlight? Also, the Jetbeam Ti light there looks almost chrome dipped. Most of the Titanium stuff I've seen always has that brownish, grayish Ti color to it. But in that picture it doesnt look brownish at all. It looks like polished aluminum.


----------



## F250XLT (Apr 19, 2012)

nakahoshi said:


> Just got it!
> 
> Some Quick things to note:
> -*Tint is awesome (No Green)*
> ...




There is still hope, that is great news.


----------



## aau007 (Apr 19, 2012)

HighlanderNorth said:


> Was gold anodizing an option on the Sunwayman Ti flashlight? Also, the Jetbeam Ti light there looks almost chrome dipped. Most of the Titanium stuff I've seen always has that brownish, grayish Ti color to it. But in that picture it doesnt look brownish at all. It looks like polished aluminum.


That the Sunwayman Ti2 in Gold color. They sold them in Gold and Black anodizing a little while back. I chose the Gold color because there were fewer and I don't have gold color light. 

I think the TCR1 is polished titanium. I have another AAA titanium light that is also polished. There is absolutely no brownish anything color on the light.


----------



## fyrstormer (Apr 19, 2012)

Honestly I wouldn't worry too much about the possibility of green tints. Unless it looks like pool water, it's all a matter of perception anyway. Human vision (optical and neurological combined) is 10x more sensitive to green light than red or blue light, so differences in retinal sensitivity will show up just as strongly as differences in actual tint. I've sold lights that I described as snow-white or even yellow-white and had the buyers complain to me that the tint was nasty green.

Titanium does have slight brownish hue. Steel has a slight bluish hue. Polished aluminum and silver are probably the most color-neutral metals I can think of. The brownish hue of titanium isn't immediately obvious unless you have steel to compare it to, though. I just so happen to have a TC-R2 with a stainless "mini blunt" bezel from an RRT-0, and there is a noticeable difference in color between the two metals.

Titanium is hard to anodize with any real strength, but at least one company offers high-strength Ti anodizing, and one of two colors they offer is "Brown Fluffy Oxide". So I suspect the brownish hue comes from the oxide layer on the titanium. Doesn't bother me any, I actually like it.


----------



## kaichu dento (Apr 19, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> I wonder if any of the OP reflectors from Jetbeam would work as drop-ins - say the RRT-0?


Still wondering this as it would be the easiest fix for anyone preferring OP enough to go through the motions of changing them out.


----------



## fyrstormer (Apr 19, 2012)

From the look of it, the RRT-0/TC-R2 reflector is much deeper and a bit narrower than the TC-R1's reflector is.


----------



## senna94 (Apr 19, 2012)

Second day with this beauty and I love it more by the minute. The size is perfect for pocket EDC carry. I went up into an attic today at work and it felt like I could shine a spot on the moon. Being able to dial in the exact amount of light you need on the fly is awesome. Jetbeam has certainly raised the bar and thrown down the gauntlet to other manufacturers with this light. I think an 18350 cell provides more than adequate runtime and an 18650 extender almost defeats the purpose of this little pocket rocket. Not having a tail switch makes this light the perfect length. If needed I would much rather carry a spare 18350 cell rather than a cumbersome 18650 body and cell. While trits would be nice they are not necessary. Just turn this puppy down to a level equal to or dimmer than a trit and set it on the night stand. Very easy to find at night. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## kaichu dento (Apr 19, 2012)

Oh well, looks like the McR20 or possibly McR18 then.


----------



## F250XLT (Apr 19, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> Oh well, looks like the McR20 or possibly McR18 then.



I think I have a 20 in my parts box...


----------



## kaichu dento (Apr 19, 2012)

senna94 said:


> Second day with this beauty and I love it more by the minute. The size is perfect for pocket EDC carry. I went up into an attic today at work and it felt like I could shine a spot on the moon. Being able to dial in the exact amount of light you need on the fly is awesome. Jetbeam has certainly raised the bar and thrown down the gauntlet to other manufacturers with this light.
> While trits would be nice they are not necessary. Just turn this puppy down to a level equal to or dimmer than a trit and set it on the night stand. Very easy to find at night. Just my 2 cents.


I fully expect this light to see a lot of service in my hands, but would still like to see a TCR-1s with a switch at the tail.

One thing that getting lights with ever lower lows made me lose some of my interest in trits, as they can become quite distracting, especially with multiples in the tailcap. That was one of the main reasons I sold off my Steve Ku switch from my V10R Ti.

Trits toward the front of the light shouldn't be a problem though, so I'll be watching for those options. 


F250XLT said:


> I think I have a 20 in my parts box...


I know someone else already put one in and said all they had to do was a little filing.


----------



## F250XLT (Apr 19, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> I know someone else already put one in and said all they had to do was a little filing.




Would be great if that's the case.


----------



## jorgen (Apr 19, 2012)

My TCR 01 #0084 got here today from LJ. I like it. The beam is smoother than my XPG Sunwayman v10r. I did not install the clip because it looks like it will interfere with the ring.
The light is really too pretty to carry so I think I might buy the aluminum version as my edc.
EDIT: I tried out an RCR16340 and the light got hot quickly on high. Since I don't need 500 lumens in an EDC, 220 lumens is plenty, I switched to a cr123 and the light now suits me much better, since myu reasons for purchase were the UI and the larger hotspot rather than the output.
After watching the GG vid I did install the clip since it doesn't touch the ring.


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## Dan FO (Apr 19, 2012)

jorgen said:


> I might buy the aluminum version as my edc.


I didn't but the titanium one because it was heavier than I wanted in a light like this so I ordered the aluminum one and it will be here tomorrow for $94.50 shipped from GG. I really like the SS bezel and lanyard stud on the aluminum light. Function wise and spec wise they are identical right down to the titanium clip and the heat sinking should better on the aluminum. The titanium clip will not scratch the HAIII anodizing either.


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## F250XLT (Apr 19, 2012)

#158 arrived today, and I am less than impressed. Not a bad light, but I like the V10R Ti+ better.


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## Larbo (Apr 19, 2012)

I was hoping there was a spot to stick a trit on.


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## F250XLT (Apr 19, 2012)

Well, that was a short lived love affair...


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## senna94 (Apr 19, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Well, that was a short lived love affair...




What a bummer. I have not heard of this happening to anyone else yet and hope this is an anomaly. I am sure Light Junction will swap it for you. I would send them an e mail now and call in the AM. Looks like they have 16 still in stock. Keep us posted on what happens.


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## jorgen (Apr 19, 2012)

What kind of battery were you using?


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## F250XLT (Apr 19, 2012)

jorgen said:


> What kind of battery were you using?



AW RCR123 @ 3.87v


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 19, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> AW RCR123 @ 3.87v



Couple possibilities:
1. Light might have overheated. My RRT-01 gets very hot and starts to blink from overheating after about a minute when left tailstanding. Running at max power the light really should be carried in the hand so your hand can wick off excess heat. Titanium conducts heat worse than aluminum so any heat issues would presumably be worse on the TCR1 compared to the RRT-01. In the video in your post... was that a completely cold light? Or had you been using it right before you shot the video? The loss of power could be the driver turning off the emitter to preserve the light from permanent damage caused by overheating.

2. Another possibility is it could be your battery. Based on the light output, my guess is that the TCR1 / RRT-01 pulls considerably more than 1.5 amps at max power, and your 16340 ICR cell is only rated to 1.5 amps max draw. You might have better results with a fresh IMR cell that can handle the current draw. Jetbeam has a habit of making their lights pull more amps than ICR can handle. They did it with the RRT-0 as well.

However, I agreed with Senna94 that you should try exchanging it immediately while there's still stock left. Nobody else has reported problems of this kind so hopefully it is just a bad light that can be fixed with a simple exchange.


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## F250XLT (Apr 19, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Couple possibilities:
> 1. Light might have overheated. My RRT-01 gets very hot and starts to blink from overheating after about a minute when left tailstanding. Running at max power the light really should be carried in the hand so your hand can wick off excess heat. Titanium conducts heat worse than aluminum so any heat issues would presumably be worse on the TCR1 compared to the RRT-01. In the video in your post... was that a completely cold light? Or had you been using it right before you shot the video? The loss of power could be the driver turning off the emitter to preserve the light from permanent damage caused by overheating.
> 
> 2. Another possibility is it could be your battery. Based on the light output, my guess is that the TCR1 / RRT-01 pulls considerably more than 1.5 amps at max power, and your 16340 ICR cell is only rated to 1.5 amps max draw. You might have better results with a fresh IMR cell that can handle the current draw. Jetbeam has a habit of making their lights pull more amps than ICR can handle. They did it with the RRT-0 as well.
> ...




I appreciate your feedback, but the light was not overheated. The length of time you saw it run, was the max time it ran about 3-4 times before I recorded it. As far as the cell, I really doubt that it's drawing too much to shut down this one...But I'm not genius either. Hopefully I will be getting a refund in leu of a replacement, some lights you just aren't meant to own...and this must be one of them.


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## Z-Tab (Apr 19, 2012)

That is a bad burn. I'm guessing that's the last Jetbeam you'll buy...


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## jorgen (Apr 19, 2012)

Darn shame, Tim. I think LJ will treat you right. They have always been fair with me.
As a matter of curiosity, would your light remain on at a lower output?


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## Nake (Apr 19, 2012)

Mine draws 1.87A with a AW RCR123, 2.07A with an Ultrafire 18350, and 2.57A with an IMR 18350. All fresh batteries. With an older protected Ultrafire only 1.27V, but it doesn't kick out.


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## aau007 (Apr 19, 2012)

Nake said:


> Mine draws 1.87A with a AW RCR123, 2.07A with an Ultrafire 18350, and 2.57A with an IMR 18350. All fresh batteries. With an older protected Ultrafire only 1.27V, but it doesn't kick out.



Were you able to get the battery voltage at those current draw?


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## aau007 (Apr 19, 2012)

Nake said:


> Mine draws 1.87A with a AW RCR123, 2.07A with an Ultrafire 18350, and 2.57A with an IMR 18350. All fresh batteries. With an older protected Ultrafire only 1.27V, but it doesn't kick out.



Were you able to get the battery voltage at those current draw?


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## F250XLT (Apr 19, 2012)

Z-Tab said:


> That is a bad burn. I'm guessing that's the last Jetbeam you'll buy...



Definitely a disappointment, but I won't hold it against JB...



jorgen said:


> Darn shame, Tim. I think LJ will treat you right. They have always been fair with me.
> As a matter of curiosity, would your light remain on at a lower output?



No doubt, I'm sure they will do the right thing.


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## Nake (Apr 19, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Were you able to get the battery voltage at those current draw?



No, my multimeter won't do that.


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## Dan FO (Apr 19, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> AW RCR123 @ 3.87v


It's the battery.


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## F250XLT (Apr 19, 2012)

Okay, so I tried a primary (new SF @ 3.11v), and it is functioning the same way...shuts off after about 20 seconds.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 19, 2012)

In theory, it should be possible to sense LED temperature by measuring current flow at a given voltage. If the driver is doing this, it could be sensing that the emitter is overheating and it's shutting off the light. If the LED isn't "heatsunk" properly that would certainly cause it to overheat in a few seconds.

In any event, I just ran mine for 5 minutes straight on high with an AW RCR123 and it behaved fine, so I think yours was just defective. Should be no trouble to exchange it for one that works better.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 20, 2012)

In other news, holy crap this thing can go low. You have to turn it up to a certain point before the light will turn on at all, but then you can back it down to the point it's barely possible to see the emitter glowing even in a pitch-black room. The upper part of the control ring's range is actually useful too, because the electronics don't max-out before the ring reaches its hard-stop. Definitely the best control ring UI I've used yet, though I think I still like the TC-R2 a little better overall.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 20, 2012)

Yet another thought: the bezel is damn near impossible to remove -- in fact, I still haven't removed mine. Has anyone else gotten theirs loose yet? It must be Loc-Tite-d in place.

EDIT: Okay, got it loose. All it took was a combination of boiling for several minutes followed by a pair of rubber-jawed lockjaw pliers to loosen the bezel. Man, that was a pain.

Anyway, the reflector is interestingly enough a dead-on match for the Arc6 reflector. 18.8mm wide x 12.5mm deep. The Arc6 reflector will need a little sanding to make it fit the reflector-mounting lip just inside the front of the head, but that's a relatively minor issue.


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## HighlanderNorth (Apr 20, 2012)

Which Ti light is better: This Jetbeam TCR-01 or the Sunwayman V10R Ti+?

I was just looking at the Ti+, and these 2 seem really similar. They both supposedly go to 500L, they both have "magnetic control rings". The Ti+ can run on 16340's, and needs to to go to 500L, but I think the TCR-01 only takes 123's, as says batteryjunction....

After saying I think it's too expensive, I will probably end up buying the Sunwayman Ti+, if it seems better than this one, because it is about $22 cheaper. If not, I'll buy this one. Since they both go up to 500L, that can justify my decision to skip buying an 18650 light right now. Not that I'll probably need the 500L any time soon, but as long as its capable, then its not too much different than the 18650 one, except its smaller and more compact and therefore more practical!


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 20, 2012)

HighlanderNorth said:


> Which Ti light is better: This Jetbeam TCR-01 or the Sunwayman V10R Ti+?
> 
> I was just looking at the Ti+, and these 2 seem really similar. They both supposedly go to 500L, they both have "magnetic control rings". The Ti+ can run on 16340's, and needs to to go to 500L, but I think the TCR-01 only takes 123's, as says batteryjunction....



TCR-01 takes CR123s, 16340s and 18350s.


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## scottyhazzard (Apr 20, 2012)

I returned by Ti+ and purchased the RRT-01. I don't have the TCR-01 but feel very comfortable in saying that the TCR-01 will be much better. The RRT-01 has a better feel and function than the Ti+. The jetbeam in this case is more polished and refined.


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## F250XLT (Apr 20, 2012)

HighlanderNorth said:


> Which Ti light is better: This Jetbeam TCR-01 or the Sunwayman V10R Ti+?
> 
> I was just looking at the Ti+, and these 2 seem really similar. They both supposedly go to 500L, they both have "magnetic control rings". The Ti+ can run on 16340's, and needs to to go to 500L, but I think the TCR-01 only takes 123's, as says batteryjunction....
> 
> After saying I think it's too expensive, I will probably end up buying the Sunwayman Ti+, if it seems better than this one, because it is about $22 cheaper. If not, I'll buy this one. Since they both go up to 500L, that can justify my decision to skip buying an 18650 light right now. Not that I'll probably need the 500L any time soon, but as long as its capable, then its not too much different than the 18650 one, except its smaller and more compact and therefore more practical!




I think Dealextreme might have some lights in stock that you will love...


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## F250XLT (Apr 20, 2012)

Here's a question for you...

Does anyone else hear crackling sounds when twisting the ring? When I twist mine, I hear crackling sounds, like when live wires are touching each other. I know it's magnetic, but I hear crackling.


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## enomosiki (Apr 20, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> But the control ring on a Ratory is in the tail, isn't it?



Hence why it would be easier to adjust the ring with one hand.


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## aau007 (Apr 20, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Here's a question for you...
> 
> Does anyone else hear crackling sounds when twisting the ring? When I twist mine, I hear crackling sounds, like when live wires are touching each other. I know it's magnetic, but I hear crackling.



I do. Not sure what it is but I seriously doubt they are sparks.


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## F250XLT (Apr 20, 2012)

aau007 said:


> I do. Not sure what it is but I seriously doubt they are sparks.



Sounds like the crackling sound heave grease makes when pulled apart.


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## aau007 (Apr 20, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Well, that was a short lived love affair...



OK. So I played your video while holding my light and did exactly you did. My light did not turn off for the entire duration of your video. I then turned off the light after your video stopped and my light was hardly warm to the touch. Using Ultrafire 16340.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 20, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Here's a question for you...
> 
> Does anyone else hear crackling sounds when twisting the ring? When I twist mine, I hear crackling sounds, like when live wires are touching each other. I know it's magnetic, but I hear crackling.


I think it's bubbles in the lube under the ring.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 20, 2012)

enomosiki said:


> Hence why it would be easier to adjust the ring with one hand.


How do you figure? If the ring is on the tail, there's nothing behind the ring for you to hold on to while you turn the ring. You'd have to jam the ring into the palm of your hand to hold it still, and rotate the rest of the light with the tips of your fingers. Alternately you'd have to point the light at your own wrist so you could hold the light with your ring/pinky fingers and twist the ring with your thumb/forefinger.


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## Theatre Booth Guy (Apr 20, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Sounds like the crackling sound heave grease makes when pulled apart.



I have the aluminum version also and it seems like the ring has a very thin coat of grease (maybe not enough since it is gritty when turned). The Ti light feels packed and damped with grease and makes popping/cracking sounds at parts of the rotation. I think it is air bubbles popping in the heavy layer of grease (at least it feels much less gritty!).


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## somnambulated (Apr 20, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Here's a question for you...
> 
> Does anyone else hear crackling sounds when twisting the ring? When I twist mine, I hear crackling sounds, like when live wires are touching each other. I know it's magnetic, but I hear crackling.



I saw i was beaten to it, but just confirming you're hearing the air bubbles in the thick grease used to give the ring the smooth bearing action. Same as on the SWM V10r. 

...Tripped me out for a bit too till I figured it out.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 20, 2012)

Pics! And mods! And pics _*of*_ mods! (okay, just one mod.) 

First of all, the Jetbeam TC-R1 benefits from a textured reflector just as much as every other flashlight ever made. Why anyone even tries to make a flashlight with a smooth reflector is beyond my comprehension, because if you really want a dedicated thrower you'll use an aspheric lense, and for all other applications textured reflectors produce nicer beams. So here's a TC-R1 with the stock reflector and another TC-R1 with a slightly-modded Arc6 (McR-18?) reflector:







I don't need to tell you which is which. Now, here's a picture of the reflectors themselves.





It looks like the custom-fitted reflector is off-center, but that's an optical illusion; it just so happens _the silicone dome on the LED_ is off-center while the emitter itself is perfectly-centered, which basically means there is zero effect on the beam pattern. It's a slight visual defect that has no functional consequences, so...meh.

Moving on, here's a comparison shot with my TC-R2 that I've been carrying for a year.





And here's another comparison shot, also including an Arc6, to show just how small the TC-R1 is.





Remember when Piston-Drive was the only way to make a light this small that wasn't a battery-crusher? Time will tell what the real penalty is (i.e. shorter battery life) for ditching the hardware switch, but it sure saves space, and presumably eliminates the one moving part that might actually fail and cause the light to stop working

My only complaint is the clip. I didn't realize until I got the light that the head screws _over_ the body, not _into_ the body, so the clip scrapes against the surface of the head as you loosen and tighten the head. A light this small might not need a clip, but I see a market for a super-short clip that doesn't touch the head at all. In fact, I'll say in advance that I'll buy two if someone can make them.

And now...I should try some of this "sleep" I've heard so much about. :tired:

EDIT: The tints do *not* look like my beamshot shows them; I just couldn't find a color balance that captured the tints accurately. They look like typical XM-L tints, warmer in the middle and cooler around the edges.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 20, 2012)

jorgen said:


> The light is really too pretty to carry so I think I might buy the aluminum version as my edc.


That's the coolest aspect of titanium vs. aluminum - the former gets more beautiful the more it's used, the latter goes through a slow transformation into ugly. If you prefer beauty, use the Ti, if you like ugly, get the aluminum. :thumbsup:


Larbo said:


> I was hoping there was a spot to stick a trit on.


There is plenty of room for trits between all the pineapple knurling on the tube!


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## run4jc (Apr 20, 2012)

senna94 said:


> What a bummer. I have not heard of this happening to anyone else yet and hope this is an anomaly. I am sure Light Junction will swap it for you. I would send them an e mail now and call in the AM. Looks like they have 16 still in stock. Keep us posted on what happens.



It happened to my RRT01 - I even mentioned it in my sales post HERE. Like F250XLT, it did it regardless of cell - IMR16340, IMR18350, AW RCR 123, primary. It was a mild irritant, but not the reason I sold the light - I sold it because I LIKED IT SO MUCH duh2 .......... that I ordered a TCR1 (due to arrive today.) And I have a couple of reflectors to play with to try and do what Scout and Fyrstormer (and others?) did to theirs - smooth the beam out.

How long do you really want to leave a tiny light on - on HIGH - 2+ amps? Little guy is bound to get really hot. Maybe it is supposed to switch off - who knows.

Maybe everyone who owns one can do what F250 (and I) did? Just rotate to max and wait? Incidentally, mind did it whether holding the light (extra heat sinking) or letting it sit untouched.

I'll be testing my TCR1 when it arrives and reporting back in. Whatever the case, this is an amazing little light, as much for how LOW it goes as for its blinding brightness!!

EDIT - my new light does not switch itself off...


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## HIDblue (Apr 20, 2012)

Wow, great pics fyrstormer. That TC-R2 still looks pristine after a year of carry. I'm kicking myself for not grabbing one when they were offered. Hopefully, JB follows up with a TC-R2 XM-L version. 



fyrstormer said:


>


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## F250XLT (Apr 20, 2012)

My recent experiences with the last two new lights I ordered (Ti+ & TC-R1), has reinforced my thoughts as to why I typically don't buy new lights. I'd rather buy a like new on the secondary market...At least then you typically know what you're getting.


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## F250XLT (Apr 20, 2012)

So here is my attempt this morning, I put in a fresh Battery Station CR123 @ 3.2v. It stays on for a little more than 2 minutes, but if you skip to the end you'll see it comes back on right before I end the video.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 20, 2012)

HIDblue said:


> Wow, great pics fyrstormer. That TC-R2 still looks pristine after a year of carry. I'm kicking myself for not grabbing one when they were offered. Hopefully, JB follows up with a TC-R2 XM-L version.


The TC-R2 is a great light, to be sure. There is still the option of the Sunwayman V10R Ti+ though. Just need to get one of wquiles' delrin switch retaining rings to smooth-out the switch action, and that should be the end of any problems.


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## F250XLT (Apr 20, 2012)

Well, mine is heading back to LJ tomorrow, I hope this is an isolated issue.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 20, 2012)

I just ordered a couple spare Arc6 reflectors over the phone, so they _are_ still available. $5 apiece from Arc.


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## F250XLT (Apr 20, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> I just ordered a couple spare Arc6 reflectors over the phone, so they _are_ still available. $5 apiece from Arc.




With their less then stellar CS history, I hope you actually get them...


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## Larbo (Apr 20, 2012)

Pretty.... Shiny


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## fyrstormer (Apr 20, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> With their less then stellar CS history, I hope you actually get them...


This isn't really customer service, it's sales. I bought a product and they are contractually obligated to deliver it. Sticking some parts in a box and taping a label to it is a couple orders of magnitude easier than servicing a faulty microcontroller; I'm not too worried about their ability to handle it.


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## F250XLT (Apr 20, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> This isn't really customer service, it's sales. I bought a product and they are contractually obligated to deliver it. Sticking some parts in a box and taping a label to it is a couple orders of magnitude easier than servicing a faulty microcontroller; I'm not too worried about their ability to handle it.



Wouldn't be the first time they said they were mailing something out, only to drop the ball multiple times. So like I said, I hope they get you taken care of.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 20, 2012)

So do I, but if they drop the ball, it's not the end of my world. I actually have multiple spare Arc6 reflectors already; I'm just getting these so I can offer them to people who don't have spare parts lying around all over the place.  The fact that the Arc6 reflector is the _exact_ same diameter as the TC-R1 reflector makes it super-easy to retrofit; just sand 1mm off the front and it drops in.


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## F250XLT (Apr 20, 2012)

That is awesome, gotta love an easy fix.


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## senna94 (Apr 20, 2012)

I hate that the clip rubs against the head instead of resting against the body so I didn't install it. However,I did install the screws for anti roll purposes and to keep dust out of the threads. The allen wrench included is crap but a Wiha 267 T6 X 40 or equivalent works perfectly on these screws.


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## Larbo (Apr 20, 2012)

Wonder if this thing will turn itself on in a nylon holster....


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 20, 2012)

Just got my TCR1.

Preliminary observations:
1. Beautiful looking light with excellent fit and finish.
2. Weight: 3.1 oz with AW 18350 installed. For comparison the RRT-01 weighs 2.3 oz with an AW 18350 installed.
3. The ring doesn't feel grindy like in the RRT-01. Instead it feels very smooth almost like a Sunwayman. Requires more pressure to turn than my V10R XM-L but less than my V10A XP-G. I tried flicking the light from off to max and noticed that it is slightly harder to do that with the TCR-01 than with the RRT-01. I'm not sure if this is because of the thicker grease used in the TCR-01 or the lack of knurling on its control ring compared to the RRT-01.
4. Tailstanding doesn't have the minor wobble of the RRT-01.
5. Pure white tint with no hint of green.


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## robeden (Apr 20, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> I'm just getting these so I can offer them to people who don't have spare parts lying around all over the place.




YES PLEASE! :huh:


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## tsask (Apr 20, 2012)

Looks great! This light also made me aware of the PA10. (and another hit to the wallet!)


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## F250XLT (Apr 20, 2012)

I'm really kinda torn...Do I get a refund, or a replacement? I really want to like this light, but I'm not sure.


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## senna94 (Apr 20, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I'm really kinda torn...Do I get a refund, or a replacement? I really want to like this light, but I'm not sure.



Tim,

This is a gorgeous light and I am sure you will regret not getting a replacement sooner or later. Think of it like this. There was probably 1 dud out of a thousand lights and sadly you got it. The probability of you getting another faulty one are astronomically low.


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## HighlanderNorth (Apr 20, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I think Dealextreme might have some lights in stock that you will love...



Ha ha, thats funny, cause they have cheap lights! Wow thats creative! Did you come up with that on your own? They do have 2 Skilhunt lights there for $81 and $78. But I guess you were referring to the cheaper ones right? LMAO!


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## HIDblue (Apr 20, 2012)

Just received my TC-R1 (94 of 1000) and I am very impressed. This is only my 2nd Titanium light, the other being a SWM V10R Ti+, and IMHO I think the fit and finish is much better on the Jetbeam. On my sample, the machining marks are barely visible and the Titanium was polished very nicely. Just comparing the two, the TC-R1 just has a much more refined look and feel.

The control ring on the Ti+ is much smoother than the control ring on TC-R1, but I do like the fact that the TC-R1 control ring feels like it has detents in the 'off' and 'max' output positions. So it takes just a bit of effort to turn it on...which is probably best to prevent accidental activations. 

To my eyes, the Ti+ definitely seems brighter on an RCR123 and has a very nice cool white tint while the TC-R1 has just the slightest bit of green to it...nothing like the green of the Quarks, but when comparing the Ti+ and the TC-R1 side by side you see the difference. And although the SMO reflector on the TC-R1 does produce some rings, the beam pattern is still pretty good and I don't notice the rings in actual use outside of a white wall.

For those interested in very, very low outputs...the TC-R1 is the clear winner. I did a side by side shot of the TC-R1 and Ti+ on their lowest settings. 

As others pointed out, plenty of room in the body for an 18350 and the TC-R1 tailstands without a wobble, unlike the RRT-01. 

I actually bought the TC-R1 for the Mrs. to use since it has a very simple UI, is compact, and since it's made out of Titanium, it should last quite a long time...I hope. Plus, she thinks the TC-R1 is pretty. Not sure I'd describe it as such, but it sure is a looker. 

I think Jetbeam's got a winner in this limited edition TC-R1. Now, I just hope that they start producing the TC-R2 (Titanium version of the RRT-0) again. 

*Close up of my SWM V10R Ti+ body: 
*





*Close up of the TC-R1 body: *





















*Side by side of the TC-R1 on the left and the Ti+ on the right on the lowest settings: 
*


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## F250XLT (Apr 20, 2012)

Nice pics...


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## fyrstormer (Apr 21, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I'm really kinda torn...Do I get a refund, or a replacement? I really want to like this light, but I'm not sure.


Replacement. You can always sell it later. Unless I missed something, you're the only person who's reported a problem thus far, so the chances of getting a second defective unit are very small.


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## somnambulated (Apr 21, 2012)

Mine came in today, and I have to agree the fit & finish on the TCR-1 is far superior to the V10r+.











The TCR-1 is finished and polished without any noticeable machining marks, almost flawless compared to the unfinished, sharp edges on the V10r+.

In fact, the only noticeable flaws were some specks on the tail:






Don't get me wrong, both lights are nice, and I may end up keeping both. But side-by-side, the Jetbeam has the definite edge in F&F.

As far as the control ring, the V10r+ is smoother than the TCR-1, but I believe that mostly has to do with the type and quantity of grease used. On the TCR-1 the control ring milling is deeper and the ring is more pronounced, so it's easier to grip.

I do notice be same (loud!) crackling reported by another member, from the air bubbles in the grease on the TCR-1. The same sound came from my V10r+ but was quieter and worked itself out. 






The low on the Jetbeam is definitely lower. 






There is a very slight greenish hue to the Jetbeam, but the beam iswarmer than the SWM, and it's not the cool green tint I've seen in other lights and don't really like. Side-by-side the SWM is a cold white with a very slight purplish tint. I have to say, I prefer the beam and tint of the Jetbeam over the Sunwayman, even with the rings. Others may prefer cooler tint.






Overall, very impressed with my TCR-1. I can honestly say I don't miss the tail switch at all. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Jetbeam light. The only real dilemma I'm facing is whether or not I should buy the Aluminum version, or another TCR-1


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 21, 2012)

Couple other observations with my TCR1.
1. No crackling when control ring is turned. I'm not experiencing any crackling from air bubbles in the grease popping.
2. Because the TCR1 is not anodized it has no tailcap lockout. The only way to prevent the standby current dry is to physically remove the battery from the light. Not an issue for everyday use, but could be an issue if you plan on storing the light for very long periods. This is different from the RRT-01 which can be locked out by unscrewing the tailcap 10 degrees or so.


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## Larbo (Apr 21, 2012)

Anyone have pics with trits installed?? Like a few small ones would fit around the lanyard hole on the tailcap.....


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## aau007 (Apr 21, 2012)

So I used a watt meter to test the light. I used a hot off the charger Ultrafire 16340 that started off at 4.18v. When blasting it to max, the current draw was 1.8A at 3.6v. That's almost 6.5W draw at the battery. Then as the loaded voltage dropped to 3.3v, the current draw was about 1.3A, that's only 4.3W at the battery. At 3.1v, 0.9A, at 3.0v, 0.85A. Then at about 2.45v, the light went into rapid flashing and shut down. The supposedly protected Ultrafire 16340 did not cut off voltage soon enough before the light's rapid flashing. I wish the battery would cutoff at no less than 2.5v though. The bright side is, I manage to get *over 700mah *out of the battery before it dropped below 3.0v, pretty much driving the battery starting at 1.8A all the way down to 0.85A at 3.0v.

Does that mean this light is direct drive?

I am going to try to hook up a 18650 later to see.


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## MY (Apr 21, 2012)

Just received three lights today: TCR1, RRT01, and SWM Ti+. I am sad to say that I am not impressed with the TCR1 and will be sending it back. The main concern is the control ring is loose, wiggles up and down and sideways. If the ring is in a detent and is pushed up on one side, it will almost jam and need extra effort to release. The tint is too green and the finish has scratch marks. I really don't care about the scratches as that will happen anyways. The ring on the RRT01 has just a slight amount of wiggle room but is gritty - I can live with it though. On the other hand, other than the terrible switch on the Ti+, I think the SWM quality is greater than the jet beams. The Ti+ control ring is just about perfect in feel and action and the tint is white. So two out of three but unfortunately the one that I was most excited by was the TCR1. Not sure if I should exchange for another or wait for the Niteye 10Ti which is an improved TCR1 with OP reflector, U2 bin, cooling fins, and multiple detents on the control ring. (Niteye makes the TCR1).

Regards


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 21, 2012)

MY said:


> Just received three lights today: TCR1, RRT01, and SWM Ti+. I am sad to say that I am not impressed with the TCR1 and will be sending it back. The main concern is the control ring is loose, wiggles up and down and sideways. If the ring is in a detent and is pushed up on one side, it will almost jam and need extra effort to release. The tint is too green and the finish has scratch marks. I really don't care about the scratches as that will happen anyways. The ring on the RRT01 has just a slight amount of wiggle room but is gritty - I can live with it though. On the other hand, other than the terrible switch on the Ti+, I think the SWM quality is greater than the jet beams. The Ti+ control ring is just about perfect in feel and action and the tint is white. So two out of three but unfortunately the one that I was most excited by was the TCR1. Not sure if I should exchange for another or wait for the Niteye 10Ti which is an improved TCR1 with OP reflector, U2 bin, cooling fins, and multiple detents on the control ring. (Niteye makes the TCR1).
> 
> Regards



You might've gotten a dud. Or just have really high standards. The control ring on my TCR1 isn't loose at all. However, I have noticed that with both it and the RRT-01 to get maximum control turning the ring I need to hold the light in my palm and use both my thumb and index finger on opposite sides of the ring to turn it. Trying to turn the ring with just 1 finger doesn't work. I could see how if you're used to the extremely loose ring of a V10R XM-L and are used to turning it with 1 finger, you would not be happy with the Jetbeams which require 2 fingers.


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## jorgen (Apr 22, 2012)

I love this light, and have purchased both the HA & TI versions. I never seriously considered the V11 as it doesn't seem like a step forward from the V10.


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## Theatre Booth Guy (Apr 22, 2012)

senna94 said:


> I hate that the clip rubs against the head instead of resting against the body so I didn't install it. However,I did install the screws for anti roll purposes and to keep dust out of the threads. The allen wrench included is crap but a Wiha 267 T6 X 40 or equivalent works perfectly on these screws.



+1 about the included wrench. it seems undersize and spun in one of my screws before it was really tight. Monday will be a trip to the local fancy fastener store for some torx drive screws!


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## fyrstormer (Apr 22, 2012)

MY, I suppose everyone is entitled to their opinions. It's odd that you find the TC-R1 to be lacking in quality compared to the SWM V10R Ti+, since that's the opposite of what most people have seen thus far. I suppose you're just the lucky guy who got a marginal TC-R1 _and_ an above-average Ti+. Do you feel special? 

Anyway, it's better for the control ring to be slightly loose than slightly tight, because slightly loose will allow grit to work its way out eventually, whereas slightly tight would be unusable. I can't explain the tint, though; everyone's eyes work a little differently. I suggest using the light for a few days, though, instead of just comparing it to the SWM. You may decide that the comparative differences are only noticeable when you're comparing the two lights to each other instead of using them for their intended purpose.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 22, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Then at about 2.45v, the light went into rapid flashing and shut down. The supposedly protected Ultrafire 16340 did not cut off voltage soon enough before the light's rapid flashing. I wish the battery would cutoff at no less than 2.5v though.


Try it with an AW protected cell. AW's protection circuits should work better.

I don't think the light is direct-drive. Rather, I think the light is designed to achieve maximum brightness using the most powerful cell it can hold, fully-charged, and output starts drooping as the cell wears down. That is different from direct-drive because direct-drive doesn't control the voltage going to the emitter, and there would be a noticeable change in tint between an emitter being driven by a 3V primary vs. a 4.2V rechargeable battery. I just compared the two TC-R1s I have, and while there is a difference in brightness between primaries and rechargeables, there isn't a difference in tint.


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## Z-Tab (Apr 22, 2012)

I'm sorry to hear that some people feel let down by the TCR1. I'm very happy with mine. It's quite a bit thicker than my T1A, though the fact that it can handle 18350s without an expensive mod partially makes up for it. 

I'm surprised that Jetbeam went with a smooth reflector, as a flashlight this small is probably not going to be anybody's go-to when they need a real throwy light. As far as "real world" use, this is a great indoor light, which is exactly where that ringy beam is going to be the most visible. That's my only real gripe with the light, though.

The low-low is sort of ridiculous, but really pushes the idea of "infinitely variable" control. You can actually get it dim enough that the only evidence that it is on is that the reflector stands out in a pitch black room.

I like mine so much, that I considered getting another one. Looking at the Niteye 10Ti, it seems that there might not be any real rush, as these might not be so limited after all.


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## aau007 (Apr 22, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> Try it with an AW protected cell. AW's protection circuits should work better.
> 
> I don't think the light is direct-drive. Rather, I think the light is designed to achieve maximum brightness using the most powerful cell it can hold, fully-charged, and output starts drooping as the cell wears down. That is different from direct-drive because direct-drive doesn't control the voltage going to the emitter, and there would be a noticeable change in tint between an emitter being driven by a 3V primary vs. a 4.2V rechargeable battery. I just compared the two TC-R1s I have, and while there is a difference in brightness between primaries and rechargeables, there isn't a difference in tint.



So I tapped a 800mah high drain LiPo battery to the light. After about 5 seconds, my watt meter shows 2.25A at 3.75v. That's about 8.4W at the battery.

Not sure if "direct drive" is the right term. My observations with the watt meter is that output drops when the voltage under load starts dropping. Different battery types also exihibit different A vs V behavior. May be "not regulated" is the right term? What do you call it when the output varys when battery amp/voltage under load changes and the setting at light is the same (max).


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## OneBigDay (Apr 22, 2012)

Z-Tab said:


> ...Looking at the Niteye 10Ti, it seems that there might not be any real rush, as these might not be so limited after all.



I just saw this too. A lot of copying going on but this is really blatant. If the quality is in the same category it takes the edge off the LE quality of the Jetbeam. On the other hand if the Niteye comes with a OP reflector a lot of people might jump ship.


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## OneBigDay (Apr 22, 2012)

Duplicate Post


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 22, 2012)

OneBigDay said:


> I just saw this too. A lot of copying going on but this is really blatant. If the quality is in the same category it takes the edge off the LE quality of the Jetbeam. On the other hand if the Niteye comes with a OP reflector a lot of people might jump ship on the Jetbeam.



It was explained that a single designer licensed the design to both Jetbeam and Nighteyes. Both are fully licensed to sell the design. As such, the Nighteyes isn't really a "blatant copy" of the Jetbeam.

The Nighteyes looks like an interesting light. Compared to the Jetbeam it has:
* U2 emitter for higher max output. (someone on the forum measured the RRT-01 at 542 lumens on IMR 18350. Compared to over 640 lumens for the Nighteyes EYE 10).
* Orange peel reflector
* extra detentes midway through the ring travel. This might be good or bad.
* extra hidden strobe mode.


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## peterharvey73 (Apr 22, 2012)

The only thing holding me from the Niteyes, is that personally I find the Jetbeams much more attractively styled.
One detente on the standby is really all that is needed; they didn't need to have a turbo detente, because it is a chore twisting the ring out of any detente.
Personally, I wouldn't want any more detentes in the middle...


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## OneBigDay (Apr 22, 2012)

I did see and read the review/post from subwoofer that explained the design was licensed to more than one shop. It's not that I don't believe it but it doesn't make much sense from Jetbeam's perspective. Why market a Ti "Limited Edition" light when you know the shop next door is going to mass produce essentially the identical light at roughly the same time. It makes the consumer feel like somebody is pulling your chain.

All semantics aside about what one would consider a copy...

The OP reflector alone is enough to consider one over the other. I agree with the previous posters who have said there is no good reason for a SMO reflector on an EDC type light like this. OP is the way to go. If you need real throw you'd reach for a different light.

Any way you slice it up this is an interesting game to watch between the tcr01, v10rTi+, and now at the edge of the frey, the Niteye 10Ti.


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## juplin (Apr 22, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> I don't think the light is direct-drive. Rather, I think the light is designed to achieve maximum brightness using the most powerful cell it can hold, fully-charged, and output starts drooping as the cell wears down. That is different from direct-drive because direct-drive doesn't control the voltage going to the emitter, and there would be a noticeable change in tint between an emitter being driven by a 3V primary vs. a 4.2V rechargeable battery. I just compared the two TC-R1s I have, and while there is a difference in brightness between primaries and rechargeables, there isn't a difference in tint.


The circuit of TCR01 (RRT01) should be same as RRT0.
RRT0 was proved to be direct drive using RCR123A with voltage higher than 3.8V.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-of-Pictures&p=3701869&viewfull=1#post3701869


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 23, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> The only thing holding me from the Niteyes, is that personally I find the Jetbeams much more attractively styled.
> One detente on the standby is really all that is needed; they didn't need to have a turbo detente, because it is a chore twisting the ring out of any detente.
> Personally, I wouldn't want any more detentes in the middle...



I agree on the detentes. They should have skipped the detente at max power. All they really needed was the detente at minimum to prevent the light turning on accidentally.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 23, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> It was explained that a single designer licensed the design to both Jetbeam and Nighteyes. Both are fully licensed to sell the design. As such, the Nighteyes isn't really a "blatant copy" of the Jetbeam.
> 
> The Nighteyes looks like an interesting light. Compared to the Jetbeam it has:
> * U2 emitter for higher max output. (someone on the forum measured the RRT-01 at 542 lumens on IMR 18350. Compared to over 640 lumens for the Nighteyes EYE 10).
> ...


You're not going to get 100 more lumens from a higher-binned XM-L. Niteye is doing something to drive the emitter harder too. Longevity is questionable, though it's not in any of these companies' best interests to make products that will last decades on purpose.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 23, 2012)

juplin said:


> The circuit of TCR01 (RRT01) should be same as RRT0.
> RRT0 was proved to be direct drive using RCR123A with voltage higher than 3.8V.
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-of-Pictures&p=3701869&viewfull=1#post3701869


The RRT-01/TC-R1 is over a year newer than the RRT-0/TC-R2. It's possible the circuit is the same, but there's no guarantee. For one, when I expose my TC-R1 to an external magnetic field it simply shuts off instead of going crazy like my TC-R2 does.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 23, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> You're not going to get 100 more lumens from a higher-binned XM-L. Niteye is doing something to drive the emitter harder too. Longevity is questionable, though it's not in any of these companies' best interests to make products that will last decades on purpose.



I agree. The extra 100 lumens, if accurate, isn't just from going to a higher bin emitter. It would mean that Nighteye is driving the emitter harder, which could mean heat could be more of an issue and battery life would be reduced.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 23, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Not sure if "direct drive" is the right term. My observations with the watt meter is that output drops when the voltage under load starts dropping. Different battery types also exihibit different A vs V behavior. May be "not regulated" is the right term? What do you call it when the output varys when battery amp/voltage under load changes and the setting at light is the same (max).


That's a good question. I suppose "direct drive" is a form of "unregulated", where "unregulated" means that neither the voltage nor the amperage is held at a specific value, but "direct-drive" specifically means the power coming out of the battery goes straight into the emitter without any control at all.

I don't think that's what's happening; I think the XM-L emitter just has such low resistance due to its size that it can tolerate a massive amount of amperage at its rated input voltage, and only a very powerful battery can deliver it for more than a few seconds. Unless the voltage drop across the emitter is higher than Cree rated it for, it's not being direct-driven.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 23, 2012)

Z-Tab said:


> I'm sorry to hear that some people feel let down by the TCR1. I'm very happy with mine. It's quite a bit thicker than my T1A, though the fact that it can handle 18350s without an expensive mod partially makes up for it.
> 
> I'm surprised that Jetbeam went with a smooth reflector, as a flashlight this small is probably not going to be anybody's go-to when they need a real throwy light. As far as "real world" use, this is a great indoor light, which is exactly where that ringy beam is going to be the most visible. That's my only real gripe with the light, though.
> 
> ...


Lots of great points in your post and it's enjoyable reading about them while I wait for mine as it gives me plenty of food for thought before actually laying hands on one. One problem I face at present is that daylight is getting progressively shorter and if mine doesn't get here soon I may have to test it in the closet.

Since you've compared the TCR-1 with the T1A, I assume the TCR-1 is easier to hold without slippage?

I also wish they'd gone with an OP reflector, which has essentially become the standard anymore, but I'm already planning on an Arc6 reflector, which Fyrestormer has verified to be and easy swap with very little work.

The super low level is really what I've been hoping to see from all lights with a sweeping UI, as there is no problem in simply running right past the levels felt to be too low, but for those of us who have real problems with lights that only go as low as the Clicky, V10R or worse yet, Haiku, the super low level is what really pushed me to buy my first new light in a while. The Haiku belongs in comparison the least, since it doesn't have a sweep interface, but the low on it makes it almost impossible to use in mid-winter for a great many of my tasks, while the TCR-1 should prove a blessing.

I rushed to buy one because of the limited availability like you, but am now pretty curious about the soon to come Nighteye product.


Fireclaw18 said:


> It was explained that a single designer licensed the design to both Jetbeam and Nighteyes. Both are fully licensed to sell the design. As such, the Nighteyes isn't really a "blatant copy" of the Jetbeam.
> 
> The Nighteyes looks like an interesting light. Compared to the Jetbeam it has:
> * U2 emitter for higher max output. (someone on the forum measured the RRT-01 at 542 lumens on IMR 18350. Compared to over 640 lumens for the Nighteyes EYE 10).
> ...


*The higher output is probably not that big a deal, as an extra 100lumens when you're already over 500 is not going to be nearly as noticeable as the difference between a 100 and 200lumen light.
*Orange peel is good!
*Don't know how I feel about the extra detents until trying one, but while I like them on a light with set points, they may prove to be annoying or useless, as others have pointed out.
*If the hidden strobe is truly hidden then no harm, but I don't want to see it come on just because I turned the ring too far.


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## senna94 (Apr 23, 2012)

I did a search and can't find any info on the Niteeye. Can someone post a link to info on this light?


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## run4jc (Apr 23, 2012)

senna94 said:


> I did a search and can't find any info on the Niteeye. Can someone post a link to info on this light?



Didn't see anything on a ti version, but here's the manufacturer's product page on the aluminum version...

http://www.niteyelight.com/product/?type=detail&id=58


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## Z-Tab (Apr 23, 2012)

Look familiar? Link (in Chinese). That's the only site that I've found with any info at all.


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## Z-Tab (Apr 23, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> Since you've compared the TCR-1 with the T1A, I assume the TCR-1 is easier to hold without slippage?



It is definitely less slippery and much easier to operate one-handed.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 23, 2012)

Z-Tab said:


> Look familiar? Link (in Chinese). That's the only site that I've found with any info at all.


Wow. Really? Oh well.


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## Samy (Apr 23, 2012)

Haha that's funny. Twins?


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## petr9999 (Apr 23, 2012)

sadly no, the nite eye has a u2 and OP reflector...


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## fyrstormer (Apr 24, 2012)

Don't worry about the bin, petr. It won't make enough of a difference for anyone to notice. Also, newer bins are usually less-predictable in regards to quality; better to stick with a slightly older bin in a high-quality light, to make sure there's less for people to complain about.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 24, 2012)

I bought a couple of Oveready's 18mm-to-16mm battery adaptors, and it works perfectly in the TC-R1. I wrapped mine with a couple layers of clear tape for an extra-snug fit inside the battery tube, but it didn't really need it. Great accessory for someone (like me) who intends to use 16340s or CR123s.


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## F250XLT (Apr 24, 2012)

Received my refund from LJ this morning, I really wanted to like this light.


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## Tain (Apr 25, 2012)

Here are some photos of TCR1 disassembly






Unsolder the the LED first before crack it open, or you will rip the wires out of the driver. Copper based PCB. The led is swapped with a warm tint XML.


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## aau007 (Apr 25, 2012)

Tain said:


> Here are some photos of TCR1 disassembly



Tain,

That's very nice to see all the internals of a light. I am not good at taking apart lights. Do you have some stepping photos on how to remove the control ring? My control ring feels gritty. I am thinking of taking it out, clean it and regrease it with something not so thick (for a looser turning).


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## fyrstormer (Apr 25, 2012)

aau007, keep using the ring for a while. The biggest factors in reducing the gritty feeling of Ti-on-Ti are:

1) Grind off all the microscopic burrs on the surface of the metal, which you can do by twisting the ring a lot;
2) When you change the grease, make sure all the surfaces are super-clean afterwards, to remove all the ground-off metal bits;
3) Don't keep changing the grease frequently, because the tiny titanium bits that grind off and mix into the grease actually act like a rolling agent to reduce further grinding.

- - -

Tain, how did you loosen the back part of the head? Do you have to remove the retaining screw first?


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## jojobos (Apr 25, 2012)

I just got mine. Very good fit and finish. High draws about 1.7A and the lowest draws 10mA at AW [email protected] Very happy so far!

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2


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## F250XLT (Apr 25, 2012)

The ring on the one I received was not very smooth, but I suppose it would have gotten better over time.


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## senna94 (Apr 25, 2012)

I bought two of them and one ring was silky smoothe out of the box. The other one was grity but as stated above it has gotten way better by playing with it. I took the battery out and worked it back and forth while watching the boob tube over a couple of nights and is now very nice and smoothe.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 25, 2012)

Tain said:


> Here are some photos of TCR1 disassembly


Mine showed up today, and thankfully were already assembled!


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## Tain (Apr 26, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> aau007, keep using the ring for a while. The biggest factors in reducing the gritty feeling of Ti-on-Ti are:
> 
> 1) Grind off all the microscopic burrs on the surface of the metal, which you can do by twisting the ring a lot;
> 2) When you change the grease, make sure all the surfaces are super-clean afterwards, to remove all the ground-off metal bits;
> ...



It is very much like taking V10R Ti apart. The only thing is that you need to remove the LED and driver out of the housing first.
V10R Ti has LED and driver installed on the same housing, while TCR1 has the LED and driver on 2 different housings. 

Be really careful when taking selector ring and driver housing apart. There is a tiny metal ball and a tiny spring between these parts. 

The selector ring is very loose without the grease. I guess if you can re-apply the grease the ring will go very smooth. Mine did not have a grinding issue.


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## Tain (Apr 26, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> Mine showed up today, and thankfully were already assembled!



I hope mine came in un-assembled, so I didn't have to go through the hassle taking it apart. :naughty:


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## kaichu dento (Apr 26, 2012)

Tain said:


> I hope mine came in un-assembled, so I didn't have to go through the hassle taking it apart. :naughty:


LOL - Good point! oo:


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## juplin (Apr 26, 2012)

My TC-R1 with trits installed :naughty:





Trits lighting at midnight


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## fyrstormer (Apr 26, 2012)

Damn, son. oo: Nice to know there's enough room for so many.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 26, 2012)

As I've been playing with this light the past few days, it's occurred to me that this may be the most durable light design ever created -- not the TC-R1 specifically, but the general paradigm the TC-R1 is based on. It's made of a strong metal with no surface coating to chip off, and all of the electrical parts are non-moving. There is no clicky-switch to wear out, the threads are not used as part of the twisty-switch mechanism, and the brightness control operates by way of a contactless magnetic sensor. No matter how much the moving parts wear down, they won't stop working, and there are no small parts to break. Even if the spring-loaded-ball that provides friction for the ring were to wear down completely and fall out, the magnetic sensor that senses the position of the ring would continue to work. This light could very well last for decades of daily use.


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## F250XLT (Apr 26, 2012)

juplin said:


>




I'd fill that with Norland...looks nice.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 26, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> ...This light could very well last for decades of daily use.



Decades? Yikes!!

Decades from now I hope to be using a 50,000 lumen 2" long finger-sized flashlight with 1 month of battery life, focusing beam and variable tint.:devil:


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## fyrstormer (Apr 26, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Decades? Yikes!!
> 
> Decades from now I hope to be using a 50,000 lumen 2" long finger-sized flashlight with 1 month of battery life, focusing beam and variable tint.:devil:


A flashlight like that wouldn't need tritium markers, because it would already be powered by plutonium.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 26, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I'd fill that with Norland...looks nice.


Filling an opening that big with Norland would be very tricky, because Norland strongly absorbs UV light, and even McGizmo's 365nm UV light will only penetrate a couple millimeters. I tried to use Norland to pot some electronics once, and after about 30 minutes of continuous UV exposure, I only succeeded in hardening a thin film on the surface of the Norland.

You might be able to apply and harden the Norland a thin layer at a time, but I don't know if fresh Norland will stick to hardened Norland.


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## dlmorgan999 (Apr 26, 2012)

juplin said:


> My TC-R1 with trits installed :naughty:



Very nice!!! :goodjob:

Did you just glue them directly to the light? Also what size are those trits and where did you get them? I thought that KuKu was the only one who sold pink, but I also thought he only sold them in markers? I'm asking because I'd like to give my light a similar treatment.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 26, 2012)

juplin said:


> Trits lighting at midnight


Just a word of caution to super low level fans - I've started shying away from trits on the back of my lights because they can seem unexpectedly bright when your eyes are used to the dark.

Holding up some trits next to the TC-R1 emitter last night and the trits were way brighter than the emitter at it's lowest levels. Not a concern for everyone, but just a word of caution...


fyrstormer said:


> As I've been playing with this light the past few days, it's occurred to me that this may be the most durable light design ever created -- not the TC-R1 specifically, but the general paradigm the TC-R1 is based on. It's made of a strong metal with no surface coating to chip off, and all of the electrical parts are non-moving. There is no clicky-switch to wear out, the threads are not used as part of the twisty-switch mechanism, and the brightness control operates by way of a contactless magnetic sensor. No matter how much the moving parts wear down, they won't stop working, and there are no small parts to break. Even if the spring-loaded-ball that provides friction for the ring were to wear down completely and fall out, the magnetic sensor that senses the position of the ring would continue to work. This light could very well last for decades of daily use.


Excellent points all and even though comparisons have been made with SWM lights, these definitely have a beefier feel to them, all the while showing incredible attention to finish quality as well.


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## trgrhppy (Apr 26, 2012)

I received TC-R1 s.n. 0308 today. Initially, I like it a lot! Excellent fit and finish, no popping sounds from the control ring. It doesn't cut out on high, and no extra colors in the beam, but has a few rings. Rings aren't noticeable unless I'm looking for them. I'm considering an RRT-01 next. trgrhppy


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## kdhope1 (Apr 27, 2012)

I received 0113 today amazingly bright for such a small light really well put together.Really glad mine arrived assembled!...kelly


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## cubebike (Apr 27, 2012)

I wanna to ask anyone of you have problem with the TCR01. I am from Hong Kong and I bought the TCR01 a week ago. Last night when i replaced the battery with freshly charged AW R123R strange thing happened. The flashlight started to blink on and off with low to medium intensity even I turned the ring to the "off" position. I tested it with normal CR123 battery and another AW battery, the flashing/blinking problem remains the same. I called the shop I bought it and he asked me to return to him. 
I hope this will not happen to you guys. FYI- I had problem with my SUNWAYMAN M11R when it first came to the market as well. I don't know it was my bad luck or what, I am having troubles with the newly released products frequently. The bright side is it is quite convenient to go to the dealer/shop since Hong Kong is a small place.


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## juplin (Apr 27, 2012)

dlmorgan999 said:


> Very nice!!! :goodjob:
> 
> Did you just glue them directly to the light? Also what size are those trits and where did you get them? I thought that KuKu was the only one who sold pink, but I also thought he only sold them in markers? I'm asking because I'd like to give my light a similar treatment.


I brushed the transparent nail polish on the the circular slot of the tail, then placed 6 pcs of 1.5 x 5 mm trits on the nail polish to glue them. After several minutes, brushed transparent nail polish on the the trits again to coat and protect these trits. You can continuously brush the transparent nail polish in several iterations after the nail polish applied in the previous iteration has been hardened to increase the thickness of transparent protection film.

My trits were bought from a local dealer in Taiwan, who might has the same source as KuKu.


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## f22shift (Apr 27, 2012)

cubebike said:


> I wanna to ask anyone of you have problem with the TCR01. I am from Hong Kong and I bought the TCR01 a week ago. Last night when i replaced the battery with freshly charged AW R123R strange thing happened. The flashlight started to blink on and off with low to medium intensity even I turned the ring to the "off" position. I tested it with normal CR123 battery and another AW battery, the flashing/blinking problem remains the same. I called the shop I bought it and he asked me to return to him.
> I hope this will not happen to you guys. FYI- I had problem with my SUNWAYMAN M11R when it first came to the market as well. I don't know it was my bad luck or what, I am having troubles with the newly released products frequently. The bright side is it is quite convenient to go to the dealer/shop since Hong Kong is a small place.



where is the best place in HK to shop for flashlight stuff?


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## juplin (Apr 27, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> Just a word of caution to super low level fans - I've started shying away from trits on the back of my lights because they can seem unexpectedly bright when your eyes are used to the dark.
> 
> Holding up some trits next to the TC-R1 emitter last night and the trits were way brighter than the emitter at it's lowest levels. Not a concern for everyone, but just a word of caution...


You must have super sensitive eyes. :naughty:
But I agree with you as single trit is bright enough for identification marker at midnight.
Extra trits arranged in hexagonal configuration are purely added for the artistry of this little beauty.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 27, 2012)

juplin said:


> You must have super sensitive eyes. :naughty:
> But I agree with you as single trit is bright enough for identification marker at midnight.
> Extra trits arranged in hexagonal configuration are purely added for the artistry of this little beauty.


Fairly sensitive possibly, but I think that my eyes are pretty typical, but my light usage is not, and as such, I have a tendency to be more sensitive at lower levels due to my habit of putting myself in such a situation on a regular basis.

I love the beauty of the trit encrusted lights, but as low levels dropped ever further and further, I realized just how bright trits could appear at times. 

Keep the trit artistry coming!


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## dlmorgan999 (Apr 27, 2012)

juplin said:


> I brushed the transparent nail polish on the the circular slot of the tail, then placed 6 pcs of 1.5 x 5 mm trits on the nail polish to glue them. After several minutes, brushed transparent nail polish on the the trits again to coat and protect these trits. You can continuously brush the transparent nail polish in several iterations after the nail polish applied in the previous iteration has been hardened to increase the thickness of transparent protection film.
> 
> My trits were bought from a local dealer in Taiwan, who might has the same source as KuKu.



Thanks for the detailed answer!  I tested it last night with some trits I have (soon to be installed in another light). I found that 7 of them fit perfectly in the tail and it looked great. Time to place another trit order!


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## F250XLT (Apr 27, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> Filling an opening that big with Norland would be very tricky, because Norland strongly absorbs UV light, and even McGizmo's 365nm UV light will only penetrate a couple millimeters. I tried to use Norland to pot some electronics once, and after about 30 minutes of continuous UV exposure, I only succeeded in hardening a thin film on the surface of the Norland.
> 
> You might be able to apply and harden the Norland a thin layer at a time, but I don't know if fresh Norland will stick to hardened Norland.




I was thinking just high enough to cover the trits, wouldn't be a problem with that.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 27, 2012)

True. It would also partially fill the keyring hole, though.


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## Ragnar66 (Apr 27, 2012)

Any issues with using an 16340 in this light?


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## F250XLT (Apr 27, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> True. It would also partially fill the keyring hole, though.




That's the one feature on this light I really didn't agree with, too big for keychain carry. I guess it can be used as a lanyard attachment point...


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 27, 2012)

jvc55349 said:


> Any issues with using an 16340 in this light?



16340 works fine in this light. The tube is wide enough that there will be a little play around the sides, but the spring is stiff enough the cell shouldn't rattle.

The tube is wide enough it will even fit 18350s.


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## Z-Tab (Apr 27, 2012)

LiIons work fine in the light, letting it get significantly brighter. The only downside is that when you run it at full power on a LiIon, it heats up fairly quickly.


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## Ragnar66 (Apr 27, 2012)

Cool.....thanks for the replys......


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 27, 2012)

Z-Tab said:


> LiIons work fine in the light, letting it get significantly brighter. The only downside is that when you run it at full power on a LiIon, it heats up fairly quickly.



Yes. I wouldn't recommend tailstanding the light and letting it sit on max power on an IMR 18350. The heat could damage the light. For that kind of cell, the light is best run at max power in short bursts. And preferably in your hand so your hand can help wick off heat.


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## Ragnar66 (Apr 27, 2012)

so ya figure there is an extender comin?


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## fyrstormer (Apr 27, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> That's the one feature on this light I really didn't agree with, too big for keychain carry. I guess it can be used as a lanyard attachment point...


I agree, I'm just pointing out that the keyring hole's usability would be compromised by partially filling the tail with Norland.


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## jorgen (Apr 27, 2012)

18350 batteries do not work for me. My light functions perfectly with a cr123 or 16340 but today I received my order for an Ultrifire 18350 and the light malfunctioned with it in. First it would not go on then it blinked a few times and finally when it did come on it went out after about 10 seconds. 
Frightened that I might have damaged the light I removed the battery and installed a 16340. Happily, no damage was done.
The 18350 fit perfectly but I will not be trying this larger battery again. It is not worth the risk.
I have not seen anyone post that they are successfully using the 18350s but if they do work for anyone I'd like to know because that would mean my light has a problem that could worsen.


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## F250XLT (Apr 27, 2012)

jorgen said:


> 18350 batteries do not work for me. My light functions perfectly with a cr123 or 16340 but today I received my order for an Ultrifire 18350 and the light malfunctioned with it in. First it would not go on then it blinked a few times and finally when it did come on it went out after about 10 seconds.
> Frightened that I might have damaged the light I removed the battery and installed a 16340. Happily, no damage was done.
> The 18350 fit perfectly but I will not be trying this larger battery again. It is not worth the risk.
> I have not seen anyone post that they are successfully using the 18350s but if they do work for anyone I'd like to know because that would mean my light has a problem that could worsen.




See post # 277, I hope it's not the same problem I was having.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 27, 2012)

jorgen said:


> 18350 batteries do not work for me. My light functions perfectly with a cr123 or 16340 but today I received my order for an Ultrifire 18350 and the light malfunctioned with it in. First it would not go on then it blinked a few times and finally when it did come on it went out after about 10 seconds.
> Frightened that I might have damaged the light I removed the battery and installed a 16340. Happily, no damage was done.
> The 18350 fit perfectly but I will not be trying this larger battery again. It is not worth the risk.
> I have not seen anyone post that they are successfully using the 18350s but if they do work for anyone I'd like to know because that would mean my light has a problem that could worsen.



It might be a good idea to invest in better quality batteries. AW IMR 18350s work perfectly in both my RRT-01 and TCR-01


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## jorgen (Apr 27, 2012)

I was thinking about what you described when my light began acting in a similar fashion on the 18350,Tim, but so far no problems with a cr123 or 16340 for me.
Sam


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## jorgen (Apr 27, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> It might be a good idea to invest in better quality batteries. AW IMR 18350s work perfectly in both my RRT-01 and TCR-01


I appreciate the info.
AW doesn't sell a li-on 18350 and I don't need the boost of an IMR so I think I'll stick with the 16340s


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## jorgen (Apr 27, 2012)

Well, I think I now understand what happened. Fireclaw18 is correct. The Ultrafire battery read 4.17 volts on my multimeter just before I installed it, i just checked it again and it read 0.97 volts. 
It seems that crappy batteries purchased on ebay are worthless and I will not make that mistake again.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 27, 2012)

It could be a protection-circuit malfunction. Have you tried recharging it?


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## Nake (Apr 27, 2012)

Sounds like the amp draw was too much for the battery and the protection circuit kicked in, I've had cheap batteries do this.


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## jorgen (Apr 27, 2012)

These orange color wrap batteries are not protected. I just tested it, twice, again. It has been resting since my last post. The first reading was 3.9 volts. One minute later it read 0.87 volts. It is going into the recycle bin and I'll ask the seller for a refund and dispute the $9 charge with paypal if that fails.


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## Nake (Apr 27, 2012)

I understand, I have the orange ones with no problems. You must have got a bad one.


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## jorgen (Apr 27, 2012)

Yep, that's what I think too. This isn't a popular size and they probably sat on the dealers shelf for too long without a charge.
I have purchased protected Ultrafire 18650s, in the past, and never had a probem with any of them, Popular sizes sell more quickly.


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## nakahoshi (Apr 27, 2012)

I picked up some of the Orange 18350's from BJ and they work great in my TCR01. Did you charge them before you used them? 

-Bobby


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## Theatre Booth Guy (Apr 28, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> It might be a good idea to invest in better quality batteries. AW IMR 18350s work perfectly in both my RRT-01 and TCR-01



Same here. No problems with the exact same batts & lights. I love that the 18350 cells fit perfectly in such a small light.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 28, 2012)

I gotta be honest, the IMR18350s don't really appeal to me. They hold the same charge as an RCR16340 in a larger package. RCRs are perfectly safe as long as the protection circuits aren't bypassed and they aren't allowed to sit and self-discharge for months on end. I only use IMRs when I need super-high output.


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## Larbo (Apr 28, 2012)

juplin said:


> My TC-R1 with trits installed :naughty:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Very nice! Did you use norland? I have some on the way, gonna see what I can do with 2x8s, or maybe just use 1.5x5s, Not going to use a lanyard so it wont be a factor.


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## skatenut (Apr 28, 2012)

Received my TCR-1 today at an introductory price limited to the first few orders. Nice, light, smooooth, in short, Ti! I love Ti lights and much prefer the TCR-1 over my recently received Sunwayman V10R Ti+ with the truly galling pita switch, which tuned out to be a disappointment. JetBeam proved to be smart enough to go for a pure rotary switch with no galling of Ti on a Ti clicky, smart move! 

Really look forward to night-time today!

Might have to buy a second TCR-1, to have one as a display-case queen. 

I will certainly refrain from buying a Sunwayman Ti light for a long time, especially after the disappointment with the Ti+ and the Ti².


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## JPHIII (Apr 28, 2012)

Do not forget to Check-out that stellar Jetbeam "Do Not Drop" Warranty policy before you invest 200 Bones on this flashlight...I'm, just sayin...


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## F250XLT (Apr 28, 2012)

JPHIII said:


> Do not forget to Check-out that stellar Jetbeam "Do Not Drop" Warranty policy before you invest 200 Bones on this flashlight...I'm, just sayin...



INACCURATE COMMENTS DELETED.


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## juplin (Apr 28, 2012)

Larbo said:


> Very nice! Did you use norland? I have some on the way, gonna see what I can do with 2x8s, or maybe just use 1.5x5s, Not going to use a lanyard so it wont be a factor.


I use transparent nail polish to glue the trits.
Details in the following
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...cr-01-is-out&p=3933511&viewfull=1#post3933511


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## aau007 (Apr 28, 2012)

JPHIII said:


> Do not forget to Check-out that stellar Jetbeam "Do Not Drop" Warranty policy before you invest 200 Bones on this flashlight...I'm, just sayin...


You must enlighten me on this. I downloaded the TCR1 manual from JB's main web site and there is nothing I can find in the warranty section about any sort of "Do Not Drop" warranty policy.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 28, 2012)

skatenut said:


> Received my TCR-1 today at an introductory price limited to the first few orders. Nice, light, smooooth, in short, Ti! I love Ti lights and much prefer the TCR-1 over my recently received Sunwayman V10R Ti+ with the truly galling pita switch, which tuned out to be a disappointment. JetBeam proved to be smart enough to go for a pure rotary switch with no galling of Ti on a Ti clicky, smart move!
> 
> Really look forward to night-time today!
> 
> ...


The problem with the V10R switch has less to do with the metal on metal contact than it does with poor execution - too short a distance for contact to keep it from tilting, too loose on the fit, exacerbating the first problem, and poor finishing.

If JetBeam were to have done the V10R design I'm 100% positive there would be few if any complaints over their switching.


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## aau007 (Apr 28, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> If JetBeam were to have done the V10R design I'm 100% positive there would be few if any complaints over their switching.



Doesn't the JB TCR3 have the Ti button at the tail? Did people ever complain about it for something similar?


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## kaichu dento (Apr 28, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Doesn't the JB TCR3 have the Ti button at the tail? Did people ever complain about it for something similar?


Had a couple TCR2's, but don't remember much about them since I got rid of them right away. I can definitely say though that the titanium finish work that JetBeam does is light years ahead of what Sunwayman turns out.


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## senna94 (Apr 28, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> Had a couple TCR2's, but don't remember much about them since I got rid of them right away. I can definitely say though that the titanium finish work that JetBeam does is light years ahead of what Sunwayman turns out.



+1


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## fyrstormer (Apr 28, 2012)

skatenut said:


> I love Ti lights and much prefer the TCR-1 over my recently received Sunwayman V10R Ti+ with the truly galling pita switch, which tuned out to be a disappointment. JetBeam proved to be smart enough to go for a pure rotary switch with no galling of Ti on a Ti clicky, smart move!


The ring on the TC-R1 is Ti-on-Ti, and the threads are Ti-on-Ti as well. There is plenty of opportunity for galling on this light, if it isn't lubricated properly.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 28, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> The problem with the V10R switch has less to do with the metal on metal contact than it does with poor execution - too short a distance for contact to keep it from tilting, too loose on the fit, exacerbating the first problem, and poor finishing.


The V10R needs an O-ring around the switch cover, to keep it centered in the retaining ring. That would eliminate the problem completely. I have a couple other lights with Ti switch covers and this is the way they prevent the switch scraping against the retaining ring.


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## somnambulated (Apr 29, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> The V10R needs an O-ring around the switch cover, to keep it centered in the retaining ring. That would eliminate the problem completely. I have a couple other lights with Ti switch covers and this is the way they prevent the switch scraping against the retaining ring.



Sounds like that would be the simplest, most fool-proof fix for Ti on Ti. 

Also, I have to agree with the other forum members who said it: I don't really see the point of a keychain attachment on a light this size. Sure, you can put a split ring in it and add a lanyard (I like short lanyards on small lights, just a piece of Paracord with a knot), but the lights ported large enough to accept a strand of Paracord seem more practical to me. 

Oh, and the only other drawback to owning a TCR-1: I really need to order a safe queen like I keep saying. The light is just too nice not to use, and too nice to not have a backup!


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## fyrstormer (Apr 29, 2012)

That's how I feel about my TC-R2 and my Ti Aeon; I've got backup lights chilling in my fire safe, just in case. The TC-R1 is a nice light and I think it will prove to be very durable, but using it for a few days has confirmed that I really prefer my EDC to have a button and a clip. My TC-R1 will definitely get used, but I'll have to hunt around for the perfect spot to put it so I can use it on a regular basis.

I like the way polished titanium looks, but I think it's actually counterproductive to polish a tool that's meant to be used, if the polish isn't necessary for proper functioning. The polished finish makes the TC-R1 seem like it's more delicate than it really is; I doubt you'll actually need a backup, except in case of loss of course.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 29, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> The V10R needs an O-ring around the switch cover, to keep it centered in the retaining ring. That would eliminate the problem completely. I have a couple other lights with Ti switch covers and this is the way they prevent the switch scraping against the retaining ring.


That would be one way to address the problem, but sufficeient linear bearing surface with better finish and tolerances would work well enough too.


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## Darksoul (May 3, 2012)

Hello everbody! A week ago i received my TC-R1. Here are some pictures:

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/1101/0001bm.jpg
http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/2135/0002dp.jpg




http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/5462/0005re.jpg
The low is indeed really low!


[url]http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/8228/0007al.jpg[/url]


I use AW ICR123, but if i put him from off tho the highest output the light goes off.
Is this because the led need more amp's then te battery can deliver?

I'm waiting for my AW IMR 18350's, will that solve the problem?

But what a little nice light is this! Overal very happy with it! :)

[COLOR="blue"]
Your images are too large and have been replaced with links Please resize and repost.
See [URL="http://www.candlepowerforums.com/Rules.html#siglines"]Rule #3[/URL] If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. - Thanks Norm[/COLOR]


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## fyrstormer (May 3, 2012)

Yes, the battery will shut off if you pull too much power from it. However, I use the same battery and I have no issues. Try an unprotected battery to see if it also causes the light to shut off on the highest setting.


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## ClassicGOD (May 8, 2012)

Got my TCR1 (#264/1000) the same day the forums went down so I hadn't had a chance to share my first impressions.

I didn't like how it looks in the photos but it looks much better in person. Finish on the light is almost perfect but when I got mine the ring was very stiff and gritty. In fact it was so gritty that it was impossible to feel the notches at the beginning and end of the rotation and the brightness regulation was jumpy. Thankfully it gets better with use and with some hot soapy water and few drops of Krytox the stiffness is gone and the ring is almost buttery smooth. I've tested the light in my pocket through entire day of walking and had no accidental activations even with the loosened and smoothed out ring.

The light seems to have no problem with staying on on the highest brightness. I've tested it for 2 minutes with freshly off the charge AW ICR 16340, used AW ICR 16340 and with new Sanyo primary CR123. It got quite hot with 16340s but it didn't shut off. I had battery contact issues (the flashlight would blink when shaken) and had to clean the contacts in the flashlight, after that everything was ok. At one point while playing with it I thought that it is shutting off but it turns out I accidentally accessed SOS mode 

Overall I'm very pleased with the light and It seems to be much higher quality than V10R Ti+ that I got before the JetBeam and had to send it back because of the damaged reflector (I was willing to overlook the rest of this light problems but glue on the surface of the reflector is hard to ignore.) Now I'm happy it was damaged because if I didn't send it back I would not have bought a great little light that is TCR1.


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## mohanjude (May 8, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> Had a couple TCR2's, but don't remember much about them since I got rid of them right away. I can definitely say though that the titanium finish work that JetBeam does is light years ahead of what Sunwayman turns out.



I have the TCr3 and it does have a titanium switch with a trit slot. It does not grate - it is engineered better than the SVM switch.


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## Darksoul (May 8, 2012)

What is the best way to lube the selector ring...?

I have tried nyogel 779zc and bluelube. But both don't work very well.
Nyogel 779zc is to thick to penetrate, and blue lube is to thin..

What lube do you suggest me to make the ring very smooth? And
what is the best way to lube it?


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## pobox1475 (May 8, 2012)

Darksoul said:


> What is the best way to lube the selector ring...?
> 
> I have tried nyogel 779zc and bluelube. But both don't work very well.
> Nyogel 779zc is to thick to penetrate, and blue lube is to thin..
> ...


 My go to is NyoGel 760G.


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## Triac (May 9, 2012)

FWIW, the Protected Trustfire 18350's (black, red & gold label) don't fit the TC-R1. Diameter is fine but they are too long. With the head fully tightened, half of the red o-ring on the body is still exposed.


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## correspondent (May 9, 2012)

I got my TC-R1 about three weeks ago and am currently using AW 16340's and AW IMR 16340's for it. I've been considering acquiring a couple of AW IMR 18350's. Will this fit? It's also good that i read the post of Darksoul about Nyogel779zc not working on solving the gritty Ti on Ti control ring issue of the TC-R1. I was about to try to lube it with my Nyogel.


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## Fitz (May 9, 2012)

correspondent said:


> I got my TC-R1 about three weeks ago and am currently using AW 16340's and AW IMR 16340's for it. I've been considering acquiring a couple of AW IMR 18350's. Will this fit? It's also good that i read the post of Darksoul about Nyogel779zc not working on solving the gritty Ti on Ti control ring issue of the TC-R1. I was about to try to lube it with my Nyogel.



AW IMR 18350's fit and function just fine.


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## aau007 (May 9, 2012)

correspondent said:


> I got my TC-R1 about three weeks ago and am currently using AW 16340's and AW IMR 16340's for it. I've been considering acquiring a couple of AW IMR 18350's. Will this fit? It's also good that i read the post of Darksoul about Nyogel779zc not working on solving the gritty Ti on Ti control ring issue of the TC-R1. I was about to try to lube it with my Nyogel.


I got the AW IMR 18350 and it fits fine in the light. In fact, I think they should advertise this light for 18350 with 16340 compatibility. AW protected 16340, AW IMR 16340, AW IMR 18350 and Ultrafire 16340 all work.

JB should make 2 extenders. 
1. AA extender to use AA size batteries, including the 14500.
2. 18650 extender or replacement body, for those who want extended runtime to trade for a slightly long body.


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## correspondent (May 10, 2012)

Thanks guys for the info! Just wanted to be sure. And i agree that they should mention the IMR 18350 compatibility on the spec sheet of the the TC-R1. AA and 18650 extenders would be ideal in making it a lot more versatile.


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## petr9999 (May 10, 2012)

Does anyone else experience the same?
-flashes off randomly (every 10-60 seconds) when it is at full or near full brightness on rechargables, i have tried 4 different batteries including AW IMR 16340 and Ultrafire 18350


here is a short demonstration http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXUKxTF5ZXQ


-Low voltage cut off does not work, when i tried unprotected rechargable lion batteries, the flashlight has drained them to 1.8v~ before i interupted


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## dlmorgan999 (May 10, 2012)

petr9999 said:


> -Low voltage cut off does not work, when i tried unprotected rechargable lion batteries, the flashlight has drained them to 1.8v~ before i interupted



Yeah - I discovered this the hard way yesterday. Put the light in my pocket for EDC. Went to use it and got nothing. Realized that it wasn't actually completely off when I went to turn it on. Measured the battery when I got home - .5 volts. :mecry:


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## petr9999 (May 10, 2012)

at least it can be used in an emergency situation better... fortunately my batteries charged up no problem(under constant watch)...

but i guess i would not even dare to charge a .5v battery... what brand was it?

so does anyone have a problem with their lights flashing off?


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## fyrstormer (May 10, 2012)

petr9999 said:


> Does anyone else experience the same?
> -flashes off randomly (every 10-60 seconds) when it is at full or near full brightness on rechargables, i have tried 4 different batteries including AW IMR 16340 and Ultrafire 18350
> 
> 
> ...


I bought two lights. One shows the flickering behavior, the other works perfectly. The flickering one is being replaced by the vendor.

Does the TC-R1 actually have a built-in low-voltage cutoff? I wasn't aware.


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## aau007 (May 10, 2012)

fyrstormer;3941120Does the TC-R1 actually have a built-in low-voltage cutoff? I wasn't aware.[/QUOTE said:


> If it does, it is so low that it will kill your lithium rechargeables. I tapped an Eneloop to the light and it would keep the light was still on when the Eneloop dropped to 0.8v.
> 
> So, the way to tell. If the brightness does not increase any more after you turn your control ring half way, time to recharge your battery.


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## fyrstormer (May 10, 2012)

Or just use a protected battery.


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## dlmorgan999 (May 10, 2012)

petr9999 said:


> but i guess i would not even dare to charge a .5v battery... what brand was it?



Unfortunately, it was an AW IMR 18350 - so no slouch. I've learned my lesson and I'm ordering a replacement soon.


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## petr9999 (May 10, 2012)

Ah, thank you, it is assuring that not all of them have this problem, 


i guess it does not have a low voltage cutoff, i probably got confused by

post 301: At 3.1v, 0.9A, at 3.0v, 0.85A. Then at about 2.45v, the light went into rapid flashing and shut down


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## fyrstormer (May 10, 2012)

I've seen my TC-R1 rapidly flicker and then shut off when a _protected_ battery was run down to the point of needing a recharge. However, I think the rapid flickering may actually be caused by "voltage bounce" as the battery's protection circuit kicks in for a split second, allowing the voltage to recover a tiny bit, and then the battery's protection circuit shuts off again for another split second before the power drain drops the voltage once more. I say this because when it happens, I can shut the light off for a few seconds, then turn it back on, and it will run for a few seconds before repeating the flicker-then-shutdown behavior again. Repeat 2-3x, and then the light won't turn on at all. I haven't seen similar behavior with an unprotected cell.


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## aau007 (May 10, 2012)

petr9999 said:


> i guess it does not have a low voltage cutoff, i probably got confused by
> 
> post 301: At 3.1v, 0.9A, at 3.0v, 0.85A. Then at about 2.45v, the light went into rapid flashing and shut down





fyrstormer said:


> I've seen my TC-R1 rapidly flicker and then shut off when a _protected_ battery was run down to the point of needing a recharge.



Ah yes. That was using a protected battery. I think it was the protected battery circuit cutting in that turned off the light, NOT any low voltage cutoff by the light. As I stated also, I tapped an AA Eneloop and the light was still on when the voltage dropped to 0.85v on the Eneloop.


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## Darksoul (May 11, 2012)

If i understand it right:

If the brightness does not increase any more after i turn my control ring half way, and i use a AW IMR 18350,
i need to immediately put off my light? Because i will damage my battery then?

I thought a AW IMR 18350 was protected against that?


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## aau007 (May 11, 2012)

Darksoul said:


> If i understand it right:
> 
> If the brightness does not increase any more after i turn my control ring half way, and i use a AW IMR 18350,
> i need to immediately put off my light? Because i will damage my battery then?
> ...


AW IMR batteries are not circuit protected.

You don't NEED to immediate turn off the light but that's a good indicator you battery is at least half way drained. Keep in mind this half drained battery guesstimation has no relation to turning the control ring half way.

The general idea is that if your light refuses to brighten up even half way to max, that tells you you need to go charge the battery.


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## Flucero28 (May 18, 2012)

Got mine (#096) On Wednesday this week. After a little make-over it is now one of my favorite lights! I went with a 3000K XML for a beautiful tint. While I had the light dis-assembled I tried a lot of different kinds of grease/oils in the selector ring to see which gave the best feel. What I observed was that no matter what I used, the ring would still have a slight gritty feel to it. I suspected the gritty feeling I was observing was the small spring loaded ball bearing used for the detents. I removed the ball bearing and spring, and brushed on some thick grease. The end result is an extremely smooth feel to the selector ring with a perfect amount of resistance, very similar if not better then that of the sunwayman lights I have. I like it so much, I left the bearing and spring out. 


This is now one of my favorite lights, with a beautiful tint. Has a low mode so low, that I can hardly tell that its even on, with a high level thats very impressive! Id say that the TCR-1 is a real winner, and Im glad that I picked one of these babies up while they are still available!


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## fyrstormer (May 21, 2012)

I consider a little "metal on metal" sensation in the ring to be worthwhile in exchange for a ring that will always have a definite minimum amount of force required to turn it. I don't like control rings that can "drift" as I move the light in my hand because there isn't enough friction holding the ring still.


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## nbjly (May 21, 2012)

I searched this thread -

is it alright to use IMR 18350's in this light?


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## petr9999 (May 21, 2012)

yes, just watch out for heat


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## Flucero28 (May 29, 2012)

Just loving this light! Especially now that its 3000K 





















It will go even lower then this!






Stock SWM V10A T6 XML on left, T3 3000K TCR01 on right.


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## peterharvey73 (May 29, 2012)

That's what I like about the new RRT-01/TCR-01 combo over my Sunwayman V10R XM-L T6 - I thought the Jetbeams with their very shallow reflectors have a much wider spill.
These days, I'm into lights with a wide spill surface area...


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## Doug (May 29, 2012)

Just found out about this light, available any where?


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## aau007 (May 29, 2012)

Doug said:


> Just found out about this light, available any where?




They are still available at popular dealers that register over at cpfmarketplace.


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## kaichu dento (May 30, 2012)

Doug said:


> Just found out about this light, available any where?


Get on that TC-R1 soon Doug - they're a limited run and have been out for a while now. My TC-R1 has both the highest and lowest output of any of my lights!


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## aau007 (May 31, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> Get on that TC-R1 soon Doug - they're a limited run and have been out for a while now. My TC-R1 has both the highest and lowest output of any of my lights!


Why you said out for a while? I see a popular dealer in the Carolinas still shows 8 in stock.

BTW, are you saying the brightest light you have is 500lms?


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## kaichu dento (May 31, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Why you said out for a while? I see a popular dealer in the Carolinas still shows 8 in stock.
> 
> BTW, are you saying the brightest light you have is 500lms?


I guess out can have both the meaning of released to the public as well as no longer available - I meant the former, and only 8 left means that anyone interested should buy soon.

Yep, and up until my TC-R1 my brightest light was probably 200 or so. I'm not one that worries about numbers or impressing others and I get my job done and only ask the same of my lights. Now if I was into boating, then I'd be looking for a lot more output, but yeah, 500 is my brightest light, and I since I can do anything I need with 100 or so lumens, 500 is just icing on the cake.

Funny how you don't see posts ridiculing the Nichia 119 Haiku for its measly 90 lumens...


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## run4jc (May 31, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> I guess out can have both the meaning of released to the public as well as no longer available - I meant the former, and only 8 left means that anyone interested should buy soon.
> 
> Yep, and up until my TC-R1 my brightest light was probably 200 or so. I'm not one that worries about numbers or impressing others and I get my job done and only ask the same of my lights. Now if I was into boating, then I'd be looking for a lot more output, but yeah, 500 is my brightest light, and I since I can do anything I need with 100 or so lumens, 500 is just icing on the cake.
> 
> Funny how you don't see posts ridiculing the Nichia 119 Haiku for its measly 90 lumens...



+1


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## Magsybaby (Jun 7, 2012)

So, late to the game but number 899 arrived today and completes my TCR collection 

Did anyone get the serial number card like they had with TCR 2 or 3? None here

Full brightness for over 3 mins and then I gave up, so it seems to work ok.

At cold the twisty is very smooth, after the 3 min run though it is hot and clearly the grease has altered or metal expanded because it is now gritty (and taking ages to cool.) That said it is a million miles better than the TCR3 

The finish is bit dull and matt, a very even machined look and only the top of the head/bezel is fully polished. My TCR2 and 3 are super smooth and heavily polished from the factory, the TCR1 is not so. My TCR3 is bought second hand on CPF, so I cannot be sure the previous owner didn't do it but it looks like JB skipped a step to me. If you didn't have JB's previously you would not know...Not exactly upset about it but the TCR2 is devoid of almost all machining marks and thats what sets it apart from the Sunwayman to me.

Very bright on AW18350, actually in terms of shock value 'small package-big light' it might be a pretty good one to show off to non torch-aholics. Horrible beam pattern, yellow inner ring and white outer rings; I hate yellow but its much whiter overall than the TCR2 (which is crying out for a LED swap) Have only played with it quickly in daylight...

The clip is lazy, it is the TCR2 clip and too big.

All points are super critical  It is awesome and I love it, excellent build quality, very bright and a beautiful overall package


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## fyrstormer (Jun 8, 2012)

Mine was polished all over. However, if the machining lines on yours are still visible, then even polishing won't make it super-shiny. You might be able to send it to one of the machinists here on CPF for a touch-up. Or you can do it yourself. Rub sandpaper _perpendicular _to the machining lines to flatten them as quickly as possible (though you don't need to remove them completely to get an improved appearance). Then rub sandpaper _parallel _to the machining lines to erase the perpendicular sanding marks. Then rub red polishing rouge parallel to the machining lines. That gives the best results, in my experience.

My TC-R2 never seemed to have an unpleasant tint. I suppose everyone's preference is different. The TC=R1 is definitely whiter though, and definitely brighter too. It also _assassinates_ batteries compared to the TC-R2. You don't realize how much brighter you're running the TC-R1 because so much of the extra light goes into the spill instead of the hotspot, but it can run batteries dry with the greatest of ease.

The ring grease is Nyogel or something similar, as I recall. The problem with Nyogel is it's a petroleum grease, and petroleum changes consistency pretty dramatically when it changes temperature. Silicone grease would be better for that. The control ring may be a Ti-on-Ti interface, but since the parts aren't load-bearing like the threads are, there should be no problem with using silicone grease even if silicone is not optimized for metal-on-metal lubrication. It's not being used for lubrication anyway, only damping.


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## kaichu dento (Jun 8, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> You don't realize how much brighter you're running the TC-R1 because so much of the extra light goes into the spill instead of the hotspot, but it can run batteries dry with the greatest of ease.


I've definitely noticed that my TC-R1 requires much more attention to keeping the battery charged than I've previously had to do with any of my other lights and I believe you may be right about the amount of light in the spill, but also the fact that I tend to use my lights mostly up to mid-point and there being so much more pulled from the battery at mid-point on these high output XM-L lights. Hopefully the 18350 will help get me a bit more runtime between charges.


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## Fitz (Jun 8, 2012)

After getting a Niteye TF25 I kinda wish JB and SWM would have designed the control ring the same way. It uses what I assume is a spring and detent, but instead of "smooth" travel using grease it has a series of about 30 closely spaced shallow detents that are clicked through when you turn the control ring. Always feels the same and no worries about the brightness getting changed accidentally. The detents are so close together it still has the same benefit of smooth ramping versus preset outputs.


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## mohanjude (Jun 9, 2012)

Fitz said:


> After getting a Niteye TF25 I kinda wish JB and SWM would have designed the control ring the same way. It uses what I assume is a spring and detent, but instead of "smooth" travel using grease it has a series of about 30 closely spaced shallow detents that are clicked through when you turn the control ring. Always feels the same and no worries about the brightness getting changed accidentally. The detents are so close together it still has the same benefit of smooth ramping versus preset outputs.



When you take apart the TCR1 there are 2 detents with a spring loaded ball. I actually took mine off. Not sure if I prefer it with the spring loaded ball on or off. It wouldn't be that difficult to drill 8 further holes along the path...


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## jake royston (Jun 10, 2012)

Ive received #0153 this week, and I love it!

this is the lowest it goes, but this picture was taken with a 15 second exposure, so it looks brighter than it is in person. Now that i know how to use the long exposure setting on my camera, i wish i didnt get rid of my V10R Ti with 15 trits!






and in the dark, (same 15 second exposure)


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## smarkum (Jun 12, 2012)

Awesome pics Jake!


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## F250XLT (Jun 21, 2012)

I caved, and ordered a replacement TCR1 today. Gonna keep my fingers crossed, that it doesn't show up defective like my first. Time to order an Arc6 reflector, and prepare it for the swap.


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## kaichu dento (Jun 21, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I caved, and ordered a replacement TCR1 today. Gonna keep my fingers crossed, that it doesn't show up defective like my first. Time to order an Arc6 reflector, and prepare it for the swap.


I hope you like this one better. Before putting a neutral emitter in it was one of my favorite lights. Now with the neutral emitter, even more, one of my favorite lights.

Now if they could just get rid of the tint shift across the beam of large emitters...


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## F250XLT (Jun 21, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> I hope you like this one better. Before putting a neutral emitter in it was one of my favorite lights. Now with the neutral emitter, even more, one of my favorite lights.
> 
> Now if they could just get rid of the tint shift across the beam of large emitters...



I really liked the light when I had it, so as long as it shows up in perfect working condition...I'm golden. 

And I agree about the tint shift, it is somewhat irritating.

BTW, for anyone interested...BJ said they still have 10+ in stock, and you can't go wrong with a price tag of $161.88 shipped.


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## gunga (Jun 21, 2012)

I have a very Stuck TCR1. Can do an emitter swap, but can't get the body halves apart. Tried strap wrenches, heating (boiling water). ANyone have any other suggestions?


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## F250XLT (Jun 21, 2012)

gunga said:


> I have a very Stuck TCR1. Can do an emitter swap, but can't get the body halves apart. Tried strap wrenches, heating (boiling water). ANyone have any other suggestions?




My suggestion would be, learn to love the emitter that's in it now :laughing:


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## gunga (Jun 21, 2012)

I already did an emitter swap. I mean I can't get the control ring section open (tried a lot!) so I can re-lube/change lube on the control ring.


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## F250XLT (Jun 21, 2012)

Sorry for the lack of reading comprehension 

Is the control ring bad enough to bother with it? Mine was great, not gritty, with just the right amount of resistance.


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## gunga (Jun 21, 2012)

It's good, but I like a bit more damping grease. Sometimes I can get ti on ti grinding (sounds sexy, but it isn't) and I like to minimize this with a bit more damping grease. Also good for future maintenance...


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## F250XLT (Jun 21, 2012)

gunga said:


> It's good, but I like a bit more damping grease. Sometimes I can get ti on ti grinding (sounds sexy, but it isn't) and I like to minimize this with a bit more damping grease. Also good for future maintenance...




I can appreciate a little Ti porn...


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## beach honda (Jun 21, 2012)

Just ordered one. What's the general consensus? How's the heat sinking? Any room for cutomization? Warranty? Water resistance?


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## Fireclaw18 (Jun 21, 2012)

beach honda said:


> Just ordered one. What's the general consensus? How's the heat sinking? Any room for cutomization? Warranty? Water resistance?



Not a light you'd want to run on IMR 18350 and leave on for a long period of time. The heatsinking is inadequate for prolonged running with that kind of power. Short bursts in the hand should be fine.


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## F250XLT (Jun 21, 2012)

Just ordered 4 AW IMR 18350's for the RRT-01 & TCR1 for $32.45 shipped, not bad. I figure, there is not sense having battery rattle if it's not necessary.


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## gunga (Jun 21, 2012)

I have not torture tested mine (water, drops, ice etc), I leave that to you! That said, it's one of my favorite lights, as I really like the no tail-switch UI. Like a SF titan but at a much better price point. It's pretty easy to do an emitter swap (I've done both of mine) and if you can get the rest of the body open (1 was easy, the other is still locked tight), you can change the grease etc to change the ring feel. Not much other customization yet (glow rings perhaps). It does have a thick tail section so trit slots can be added if you have the skills etc. Otherwise, nothing possible nor needed yet. 

Hopefully Kuku decides to add this to his customization list!


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## kaichu dento (Jun 22, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Just ordered 4 AW IMR 18350's for the RRT-01 & TCR1 for $32.45 shipped, not bad. I figure, there is not sense having battery rattle if it's not necessary.


Not to mention longer runtimes - I've never gone through batteries as fast as I have with this light!


gunga said:


> I have not torture tested mine (water, drops, ice etc), I leave that to you! That said, it's one of my favorite lights, as I really like the no tail-switch UI. Like a SF titan but at a much better price point. It's pretty easy to do an emitter swap (I've done both of mine) and if you can get the rest of the body open (1 was easy, the other is still locked tight), you can change the grease etc to change the ring feel. Not much other customization yet (glow rings perhaps). It does have a thick tail section so trit slots can be added if you have the skills etc. Otherwise, nothing possible nor needed yet.
> 
> Hopefully Kuku decides to add this to his customization list!


It's one of my favorites too, not only because it has a wider range of output than any other light I have, but it just rests in your hand perfectly and the ring is so much easier to find than the V10R's hidden approach.

This light is begging Steve to do some custom parts, like a scalloped bezel, or a longer head that would accept a throwier reflector.


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## smarkum (Jun 22, 2012)

Has anyone sent one to Steve? That might help with the begging. . . ! 

I agree , I love this light. Mine is out getting an emitter swap to a warmer XML . . . YEAH 
Many thanks to the CPF'r who told me about this little gem . . . :thumbsup:


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## F250XLT (Jun 22, 2012)

Received my shipping notice from BJ today, should have it by mid week.


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## jlomein (Jun 26, 2012)

With the TCR1 off, can you turn the light on all the way to max without adjusting your grip on the control ring?

I would like the ability to get the light to max output as instantly as possible. I like the clickie switch interface on the SWM V10R Ti+, but I would prefer the wider spill and fit and finish of the Jetbeam.


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## F250XLT (Jun 26, 2012)

jlomein said:


> With the TCR1 off, can you turn the light on all the way to max without adjusting your grip on the control ring?
> 
> I would like the ability to get the light to max output as instantly as possible. I like the clickie switch interface on the SWM V10R Ti+, but I would prefer the wider spill and fit and finish of the Jetbeam.



Yes you can.


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## guiri (Jun 27, 2012)

calipsoii said:


> Not to rain on this for you, but Jetbeam has been using this aesthetic for a lot longer than SWM has even been around.
> 
> In not so many words: SWM "borrowed" the aesthetic from JB. Truth be told though, I have a sneaking suspicion that SWM is also owned by the same company that owns Nitecore and Jetbeam.



Yeah, I was going to say something about that when I saw your reply but it sure looks like one of the Jetbeams I used to have and that's a year or two ago


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## F250XLT (Jun 27, 2012)

#203 arrived safely today...


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## 97catintenn (Jun 27, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> #203 arrived safely today...



Wow, very nice light!!


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## F250XLT (Jul 3, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> #203 arrived safely today...





The honeymoon is over, it's listed in the Marketplace...


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## gunga (Jul 3, 2012)

How come you didn't like it?


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## beach honda (Jul 3, 2012)

I sure do like mine!

Sure, not a very efficient light, but very neat and I love that low low!


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Jul 3, 2012)

So - I just started having a problem with one of the two TCR1s I have. Both have been operating fine for the past few weeks since I got them (1 new and 1 from CPFMP). I've warmed up the LED on both of them with no problems and really love the dynamic range on these lights.

Last night I picked up one of the lights that was sitting bezel down and noticed it was one - which struck me as weird since I thought I left it off. I checked the ring and it was set to off. Turned it up and back down, which appeared to be fine. The noticed the LED come back on a bit, brighten up, go back down, flash a few times, then go off. I looked real close at the LED and could see that it still had a touch of brightness to it. Then it came back up again. Took it apart and everything looked fine - back together - still doing the low glowing flashing thing.

Anyone ever seen this? A bit bummed as this is the used one I purchased so I doubt I'll get warranty repair on it. Can call and try, I guess.


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## beach honda (Jul 4, 2012)

Which battery chemistry do you primarily use with the light?


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## F250XLT (Jul 4, 2012)

gunga said:


> How come you didn't like it?



It's slippery, and difficult to operate one handed.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Jul 4, 2012)

beach honda said:


> Which battery chemistry do you primarily use with the light?



I don't see how that makes a difference, but mostly the UltraFire 1200mAh LiIons. A little bit of the IMR18350. I have tested it with a CR123a since I noticed the problem and it occurs with that too.


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## fyrstormer (Jul 5, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> It's slippery, and difficult to operate one handed.


Odd. I had no such issues with mine. The ring was very easy to turn. It's kinda short to hold with perfect security in a sub-optimal environment, but it's not really a SHTF light anyway.


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## F250XLT (Jul 5, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> Odd. I had no such issues with mine. The ring was very easy to turn. It's kinda short to hold with perfect security in a sub-optimal environment, but it's not really a SHTF light anyway.




I guess I'm comparing it to the ease of operation that the RRT-01 brings to the table. It's not that the ring is stiff, just no knurling.


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## fyrstormer (Jul 5, 2012)

Ah. Yeah, I've occasionally wished my control-ring lights had knurls instead of machined scallops.


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## kaichu dento (Jul 6, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> It's slippery, and difficult to operate one handed.


I definitely agree that the ring on the V10R is slippery and hard to get a good purchase on, but the wider grooves of the TC-R1 are very easy for me and I think that if you give it a little time you'll really click with it. I actually had more trouble holding the back of the light, until I realized I needed to forget about using my little finger and just grip it with my ring finger. Absolutely the easiest one-handed light I have, especially since I put the turk's head knot on the back of it.


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## fyrstormer (Jul 9, 2012)

beach honda said:


> Which battery chemistry do you primarily use with the light?


I primarily use secondaries.


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## nbjly (Jul 9, 2012)

Batteries - I've been using AW18350's and some Ultrafires 18350's that came with one I bought from the marketplace.
Ergonomics - I have medium hands so it works well, definitely not going to get the pinkie finger around it. My thumb and index finger move the control ring - it seems just right to me - any easier and I'd worry about inadvertently turning it on.

The clip could be a little shorter so it doesn't cover the control ring - I wonder how much is spent developing these lights, only to have them use a standard (and mediocre) clip?

Otherwise a useful light - low enough for the nightstand, bright enough for most anything


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## Larbo (Jul 21, 2012)

Well mine started to flicker and flash when its "off", looks like its going back.
Add another item to my list I hate that doesnt have a REAL on-off switch!


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## beach honda (Jul 21, 2012)

Larbo,

How long did the flickering take to present itself? How many battery cycles, how long have you owned, etc...

Sucks to hear, such a nice looking light!


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Jul 21, 2012)

Larbo said:


> Well mine started to flicker and flash when its "off", looks like its going back.
> Add another item to my list I hate that doesnt have a REAL on-off switch!



Mine was on it's way back to Jet Beam as of this past Tuesday. I expect maybe I will see it in a month or so.


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## Larbo (Jul 21, 2012)

beach honda said:


> Larbo,
> 
> How long did the flickering take to present itself? How many battery cycles, how long have you owned, etc...
> 
> Sucks to hear, such a nice looking light!



I got mine on April 18th. It was not used very much.


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## Espionage Studio (Jul 21, 2012)

I just got mine yesterday: *#198 *and it was love at first sight. What a great style! This thing has the most incredibly stupid dumb low you could imagine (in a _good_ way) and I great high on li-ion. I won the ting lottery for once too, mine is leaning towards neutral warm to me. I have my V10r Ti, and _had_ an original Titan which I thought went low, but man this thing is incredible! There is a "hiding-in-the-dark-and-needing-to-read-a-map-but-not-let-the-enemy-see-me-low" which is what I always hope for in a light whether I really ever need it or not, then there is the TCR1 which goes lower yet and is basically so low as to be completely useless other than to make my inner nerd senses tingle with delight. Way to go Jetbeam!


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## Espionage Studio (Jul 30, 2012)

After some confusion over a low battery and the sos coming on, I put a fresh Surefire battery in and ran as low as I could get it for 70.5 hours straight without any issues.


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## somnambulated (Aug 6, 2012)

Larbo said:


> Well mine started to flicker and flash when its "off", looks like its going back.
> Add another item to my list I hate that doesnt have a REAL on-off switch!



At least a ball bearing detent would have been nice to have on these lights, anything to keep it locked in the off position. Other than that, my only other gripe is that they didn't use a shorter clip.


• Mobile post


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## peterharvey73 (Aug 6, 2012)

The RRT-01 and the TCR-01 both have ball bearing detents in both the off position, and also in the maximum turbo position, from what I know.


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## Fireclaw18 (Aug 6, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> The RRT-01 and the TCR-01 both have ball bearing detents in both the off position, and also in the maximum turbo position, from what I know.



Correct.

I have both lights and both the RRT-01 and TCR-01 have ball-bearing detentes at the off and max positions.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Aug 6, 2012)

I think the detents on the RRT-01 feel a bit more locked in place. The ones on my TCR-01 are there but its a very subtle lock up.


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## somnambulated (Aug 7, 2012)

Interesting, the ones on my TCR-01 are definitely subtle.


• Mobile post


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## hjdca (Aug 13, 2012)

I just picked up a TCR1, 324 out of 1000. I bought the intelli-charger with it and the CPF discount worked at LightJunction, yea ! I saved like $26 ! I was able to add a small key ring to the back and still tuck it into the crater, so, the flashlight tailstands perfectly... It fits snug inside the light, and you just yank it out when you want to hang the light in your tent, etc.... I have a bunch of clips that I use, so, it is great that you can add a key ring and still get a nice tail stand... cool... the light is working great... My clip rests on the body of the light, not the control ring.. It starts curving up before it gets to the control ring... I like the clip.. I am running AW IMR 18350 batteries and it seems the light was made for these batteries.. They work great... My tint is nice... very neutral, more towards warm, then cool... Check pic for key ring... It seems like a very well made light... I was able to turn my bezel with my hand, so, changing LEDs should be easy... Note: I am strong and it was tight, but, I was able to unscrew it.. 






_*Update:*_ I got a chance to spend some time with the TCR1... The user interface magnetic ring is awesome... I did some normal camping tasks with it, and I found that I was intuitively adjusting the light as I changed distances to my desired object... It is so cool, you are constantly changing light output instantly to suit your need... I was definitely saving juice from my normal "med" mode.. I think this user interface is going to save lots of battery time... It is also nice to always have your eyes seeing the optimal amount of light for the distance you are viewing... I am running AW IMR 18350 and it is super bright.. It is floody, more than I thought, it is a wall of light... I compared it to my Fenix PD10ti Titan and the beam of the Titan is tighter (XPG-R5 premium).. With the IMR 18350 cell the TCR1 seems about double the brightness of the Titan, but with a surefire primary cell, it is just a little brighter. Interestingly, I dialed in the TCR1 with the IMR 18350 battery at the same level as the Titan on high (surefire primary battery), about 216 lumen... I ran them like that for a few minutes... the Titan was very hot, while the TCR1 was not even warm, it was room temperature, I mean, it seams like you can run it on 200 lumens all day long... I though that was great ! I guess the Titan is pretty overdriven at 216 lumens... It puts out some serious heat.. As for the TCR1, if you run it at full blast with a newly charged 18350 IMR battery, and grip it in your fist , within 3 minutes, it will be so hot that you will have to switch hands, but, when you switch hands, it will not seem that hot.. I think it is putting out every bit of 500 lumens. You cannot beat the magnetic ring interface, it is so fun and intuitive.. The low, lows are also very useful, especially when getting around when someone is sleeping or map reading etc... The low, lows are really very useful... I really like this light, I cannot even pick up my other twisties... 

*Note: *I did get thrown by one thing... Most of my lights are twisties, so, I twist from right to left to turn them on... The TCR1 is turned on the opposite way... Tonight, on a walk, I went to light up an owl that was flying by and I instinctively turned the ring on the TCR1 the wrong way, actually , twice, before I recovered and turned it the right way... by then, I only caught the rear of the owl, instead of the wingspan... I have to break that habit... If you turn the bezel correctly, you can go to instant on full blast just as fast as a one click clicky. You can turn the ring extremely fast !

*Note2: *To free both hands while camping, I frequently put my small lights in my mouth.. The TCR1 has a nice thick ring notched in the body about 10 mm from the back.. This allows you to hook your front teeth in there and hold the light during critical tasks... This is about the biggest light you can put in your mouth, so, having that notched ring that you can hook your teeth into will make it much safer and comfortable... 

_*Note3:*_ It is easy to tell when the 18350 batteries are losing power.. You have to move the ring a little more to get the TCR1 to turn on, and the brightness stops getting brighter on the top end when you are moving the ring the last few mm to full blast... when you see that happening, you pop in a new battery, no need to wait for the electronics to kick in... This will also save your batteries and you get them out at a safe voltage...


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## smarkum (Aug 18, 2012)

I love this light! It is one of my most used . I don't think I've posted any pics of mine . . . Here it is with some of its friends!


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Aug 18, 2012)

Nice Trits!

Boy, don't want to say that one wrong. 

Barry over at PrecisionWorks is going to do some work on a Haiku for me. After that I think I'll get him to do some stuff on my TCR1. I've already got a few trits down in the tail area so it would be nice to compliment them a bit.


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## dlmorgan999 (Aug 18, 2012)

Nice looking family!  I like the trits you added to the TCR1. :thumbsup:


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## CDR_Glock (Aug 25, 2012)

I'm a complete flashlight newbie and don't have any idea about the technical stuff. I have one of these TCR-1s and it's an incredible light. I love the adjustability of intensity, the waterproof and shockproof capability and styling.

I also own 3 TCR-2s. Again, I'm very pleased with that model, too.

They came in handy for the family when we lost power for several days.


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## kaichu dento (Aug 25, 2012)

Since yesterday I've once again started carrying my neutral modded TC-R1 and with it's ultra-low, and floody beam I'm sure looking forward to using it this winter.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Aug 29, 2012)

A sad day for my broken TC-R1 which was sent back to JetBeam for repair. I received the following information via email from the parent company SysMax Industry.

- I am told they cannot repair my TC-R1 and I ask why in return since it is just a driver swap.
- They reply that they do not make the light. They are only a distributor for the USA market. 
- The factory broke their contract and refuse to do warranty work or provide supply.
- They are trying to satisfy their customers and offering reprieve through the NiteCore line-up.


So - if anyone is wondering why the TC-R1 and the RRT-01 are now discontinued in the US market, there you go......

UGH - I don't really want a POS Nitecore light as a replacement for my TCR1.


----------



## gunga (Aug 29, 2012)

Ugh. That is horrible news! It explains a few things but in a bad way.


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## aau007 (Aug 29, 2012)

Why do I have that bad feeling that the whole Jetbeam brand is going to disappear and we will be left with Nitecore and Niteye.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Aug 29, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Why do I have that bad feeling that the whole Jetbeam brand is going to disappear and we will be left with Nitecore and Niteye.



That would be a real shame because the JetBeam lights are the best out of those three brands mentioned.


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## aau007 (Aug 29, 2012)

I thought I read somewhere that Jetbeam are being sued by SF. If that's the case, shutting down the Jetbeam brand would leave SF nothing to sue at.


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## Eric242 (Aug 29, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> That would be a real shame because the JetBeam lights are the best out of those three brands mentioned.


But I guess that´s the way it´s going to turn out. The german/european distributor mentioned that originaly two guys founded the jetbeam brand. Each one also owning his own brand, one nitecore, the other niteye. They apparently have fallen out with each other which led to the jetbeam, niteye, nitecore problem we are (mostly) aware of now. According to the european/german distributor Sysmax held the rights for the european/german market. Therefor jetbeam will not be available in germany (if not in europe - don´t remember exactly) anymore. I assume it´s the same problem with the US market.

Eric


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Aug 29, 2012)

Maybe we'll be able to buy them through Chinese websites.....


----------



## Labrador72 (Aug 29, 2012)

That's bad news. I'm more and more inclined to just go for Fenix lights and maybe one day for 4sevens if I really have the need.


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## fyrstormer (Aug 30, 2012)

Glad I stocked up on spare parts while I had the chance. This is exactly what I was afraid would happen when people started forming a lynch mob regarding the Cool Fall ripoff. It wasn't enough to just not buy that one product, they had to boycott the entire company and everyone affiliated with it. This is a predictable result of that kind of behavior.


----------



## Labrador72 (Aug 30, 2012)

I don't see any problems with stop buying products from a specific manufacturer if you are unhappy with unhappy with any of their policies, services, or products or business practices in general.

Not buying from a reseller just because they stock flashlights from a specific manufacturer is another story - I find that unfair as I see it as shooting at someone just because he/she got caught in the cross-fire. Still I have no right to tell people how, where or what to spend their money on.


----------



## aau007 (Aug 30, 2012)

Labrador72 said:


> I don't see any problems with stop buying products from a specific manufacturer if you are unhappy with unhappy with any of their policies, services, or products or business practices in general.
> 
> Not buying from a reseller just because they stock flashlights from a specific manufacturer is another story - I find that unfair as I see it as shooting at someone just because he/she got caught in the cross-fire. Still I have no right to tell people how, where or what to spend their money on.


I see this as the same reasons why some people go out and protest/boycott a restaurant just because the restaurant choose to sell a certain dish and some interest group is against the dish. They are against a particular product for sale but they go and punish the business selling it.


----------



## cancow (Aug 30, 2012)

When did people start buying $180 pocket flashlights? It looks like a nice light, but it is still a flashlight! Boy, I must be getting old...


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## JeffN (Aug 30, 2012)

cancow said:


> When did people start buying $180 pocket flashlights? It looks like a nice light, but it is still a flashlight! Boy, I must be getting old...



Um, some HDS models were going for that much, or more, when I joined CPF in 2006...


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## fyrstormer (Aug 30, 2012)

cancow said:


> When did people start buying $180 pocket flashlights? It looks like a nice light, but it is still a flashlight! Boy, I must be getting old...


I dunno, when did people start buying $500 telephones that could surf the internet and play movies? When they decided those features were worth the money, I guess.

The TC-R1 has a strong titanium shell, voltage regulation, and infinitely-adjustable brightness. These features cost money. You should try one, it's very useful.


----------



## fishndad (Aug 30, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> A sad day for my broken TC-R1 which was sent back to JetBeam for repair. I received the following information via email from the parent company SysMax Industry.
> 
> - I am told they cannot repair my TC-R1 and I ask why in return since it is just a driver swap.
> - They reply that they do not make the light. They are only a distributor for the USA market.
> ...



I apologize to those i am about to offend!
Damm IT! Damm IT! Damm IT!
I dont care about jet beam however every Chinese company can do this and we have no recourse.
We are at there mercy if there products are what we continue to buy.


----------



## hjdca (Aug 30, 2012)

What is going on? Why is Jetbeam having these problems ? Did they do something wrong with their lights?


----------



## fyrstormer (Aug 30, 2012)

Jetbeam's sibling company Niteye ripped-off Cool Fall's SPY design, and in the ensuing backlash a significant portion of CPF swore they'd never buy the parent company's products ever again. Also, lots of probing questions were asked, and it was discovered that the various companies involved didn't really agree amongst themselves about who owned the designs Jetbeam and Niteye use; this has caused some rather severe legal problems and now there's speculation that one or both brands might disappear.


----------



## hjdca (Sep 1, 2012)

Too bad about Jetbeam.... To cheer things up, here are some pics of my TCR1 with Mohanjude custom made extension tubes.. Thanks Mohanjude !! One tube extension for a 18500 battery and add another tube extension for a 18650 battery... I only need one set of trits... So far, I like the feel of the 18500 setup for EDC... but, the 18650 give some awesome run times... ENJOY !! :twothumbs


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## SPNKr (Sep 6, 2012)

Can somebody post a tutorial on how to change the emitters on one of these? Thanks in advance.


----------



## hjdca (Sep 6, 2012)

SPNKr said:


> Can somebody post a tutorial on how to change the emitters on one of these? Thanks in advance.



http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...cr-01-is-out&p=3932139&viewfull=1#post3932139

I have not changed my emitter yet, but, I have changed a few (one on my draco) and this one seem easy... According to the pic above, you only have to unscrew the bezel, remove the glass and reflector and cover, then, you will see the LED star... This is a separate compartment from the light engine and there are two wires coming through the LED compartment that hook it up the light engine to the LED star... So, all you do is un-solder the wires on the star and pull the star out.. Once you have the star out, you can unsolder the LED by using a hot plate... You can see the process on you tube.. Or you can use a premade star with an LED that matches in size... You might have to grind the star to match the Jetbeam star size... There is probably also some thermal paste under the star to help with heat... Note: Because it has a separate compartment for the LED and Star, the TCR1 looks easy to upgrade. :twothumbs


----------



## Ualnosaj (Sep 6, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> A sad day for my broken TC-R1 which was sent back to JetBeam for repair. I received the following information via email from the parent company SysMax Industry.
> 
> - I am told they cannot repair my TC-R1 and I ask why in return since it is just a driver swap.
> - They reply that they do not make the light. They are only a distributor for the USA market.
> ...



What's wrong with it? I very recently got repair parts for my TCR1 and RRT-01 (not from Sysmax though).


----------



## SPNKr (Sep 6, 2012)

hjdca said:


> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...cr-01-is-out&p=3932139&viewfull=1#post3932139
> 
> I have not changed my emitter yet, but, I have changed a few (one on my draco) and this one seem easy... According to the pic above, you only have to unscrew the bezel, remove the glass and reflector and cover, then, you will see the LED star... This is a separate compartment from the light engine and there are two wires coming through the LED compartment that hook it up the light engine to the LED star... So, all you do is un-solder the wires on the star and pull the star out.. Once you have the star out, you can unsolder the LED by using a hot plate... You can see the process on you tube.. Or you can use a premade star with an LED that matches in size... You might have to grind the star to match the Jetbeam star size... There is probably also some thermal paste under the star to help with heat... Note: Because it has a separate compartment for the LED and Star, the TCR1 looks easy to upgrade. :twothumbs



Thanks so much for the information  I'm having trouble moving the bezel of my light (which is actually an eye10, I plan on getting a TCR1 once I'm sure I can put a few upgrades on it), what can I do to get it moving?


----------



## hjdca (Sep 6, 2012)

SPNKr said:


> Thanks so much for the information  I'm having trouble moving the bezel of my light (which is actually an eye10, I plan on getting a TCR1 once I'm sure I can put a few upgrades on it), what can I do to get it moving?



On my TCR1, I loosened my bezel by hand, it was not that tight..


----------



## fyrstormer (Sep 7, 2012)

SPNKr said:


> Thanks so much for the information  I'm having trouble moving the bezel of my light (which is actually an eye10, I plan on getting a TCR1 once I'm sure I can put a few upgrades on it), what can I do to get it moving?


The bezels are supposed to be Lok-Tite'd in place so you can't remove them. Not all of them actually are, though. I had two, one was easy to remove and the other required two rubber-jawed pliers to apply enough force to loosen the bezel.


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## hjdca (Sep 10, 2012)

*Re: Jetbeam tcr 01 is out - Maximum Brightness and Runtime..*

Hey TCR1 fans, I managed to get a few Panasonic NCR18650B cells, 3400 mah, from a CPF member selling them out of Dallas.. I soldered a big flat dome on the top of the batteries to get a connection on the TCR1 with the flat top batteries.. I tested them in my TCR1 with Mohanjude custom extension pieces.. These batteries work killer in the TCR1.. Brightness off the charger at 4.21 volts for both cells, the NCR18650B looked a tad brigher to my eyes than the super bright IMR 18650, 2000 mah.. To my eyes, it looked definitely brighter off the charger than the Eagletac 18650, 3100 mah... This should be the brightest, longest runtime setup for a TCR1 with Mohanjude extensions pieces.. Really Cool... :thumbsup:


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## gessky (Sep 12, 2012)

See Rule #3 Do not Hot Link images. Please host on an image site, Imageshack or similar and repost – Thanks Norm

really out


----------



## hjdca (Sep 12, 2012)

gessky said:


> See Rule #3 Do not Hot Link images. Please host on an image site, Imageshack or similar and repost – Thanks Norm
> 
> really out



Oops !! Sorry... I fixed my posts.. Thanks !


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Sep 27, 2012)

Ualnosaj said:


> What's wrong with it? I very recently got repair parts for my TCR1 and RRT-01 (not from Sysmax though).



Well - I finally got my TCR-01 returned to me from Sysmax today and spent some time working on it. I was VERY relieved to figure out that it is not broken after all. For some reason the re-flow of the LED on the mPCB wasn't quite right and was causing the issue. Took the LED off, cleaned up the mPCB and then re-flowed it again. Everything is working fine now. Woohoo!


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## Darksoul (Oct 4, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> A sad day for my broken TC-R1 which was sent back to JetBeam for repair. I received the following information via email from the parent company SysMax Industry.
> 
> - I am told they cannot repair my TC-R1 and I ask why in return since it is just a driver swap.
> - They reply that they do not make the light. They are only a distributor for the USA market.
> ...



Hmm that's to bad to hear! Because my TCR-01 is now for 4.5 month at the repair center....

_Hi,
We apologize for not getting back to your last e-mail.
Your light is current in China being repaired and as soon as we get it back we will send it
to you.
Thanks


On 9/10/2012 2:18 AM, Radboud wrote:
Hello,

A month ago I e-mailed you for some more information
about my Jetbeam TC-R2, but still I don’t have any response from you!

It’s now around 3.5 months ago that I send my Jetbeam for repair….
And I really like to have some more information about how it is going now.

Yours sincerely,


_So there is a change that i will never see my flashlight back...?


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 4, 2012)

What email address are you using?

My email communications were through both [email protected] and [email protected].


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## beach honda (Oct 4, 2012)

Yikes,

hate to hear about someone without their light because of repair issues at the factory. I mean, who knows if you are even getting the whole story?? Have you tried asking the dealer you purchased it from for a replacement in the meantime? Going on 4 months is a long time to be without your EDC. Unfair if you ask me.


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## Darksoul (Oct 4, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> What email address are you using?
> 
> My email communications were through both [email protected] and [email protected].


 
The communications go through the general e-mail from GoingGear, need to say I had 3 different employees mailed me.




beach honda said:


> Going on 4 months is a long time to be without your EDC. Unfair if you ask me.




Of course I don't walk outside without a flashlight in my pocket, I’m still a very satisfied owner of a Jetbeam TC-R2.


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## beach honda (Oct 4, 2012)

Lol @ Darksoul:

what kind of hobbyists would we be if we left the house with ONLY one light? muhahahah
but in all seriousness, i hope you get your light back soon. i very much enjoyed my TCR-01 while I had it. Sold it and purchased an RRT-01 and it gets carried quite a bit! I feel your pain!


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## Darksoul (Oct 5, 2012)

Hmm response from GoinGear,

_Hey,

I really apologize about the delay, but we are still waiting on JETBeam to send us back the warranty lights we have sent out to be repaired. We are hoping to have the lights returned to us soon, as they send them in with our shipments of restock. As soon as we get the light back, we will expedite it to you. Please let us know if you have any other questions.

Thanks,_


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 8, 2012)

So, what do you guys think about trying to put a XP-G2 into a TCR1? The overall coloration of the XML is just starting to bug me. The xpg2 looks so much better in tint and overall.

My only concern is the power output capabilities of the tcr1. It will likely be safe on a cr123, but on a 18350 I think it could possibly fry the poor xpg2.


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## Fireclaw18 (Oct 8, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> So, what do you guys think about trying to put a XP-G2 into a TCR1? The overall coloration of the XML is just starting to bug me. The xpg2 looks so much better in tint and overall.
> 
> My only concern is the power output capabilities of the tcr1. It will likely be safe on a cr123, but on a 18350 I think it could possibly fry the poor xpg2.



Why not just put in a neutral tint XM-L T6? That way you can still run on 18350 and you don't have to worry about frying an xpg2. You'll also get far more lumens than with the xpg2.

Main advantage of the xpg2 is if you want throw. But with a reflector optimized for XM-L you probably won't get much throw swapping to an xpg2 anyways. Might as well stick with XM-L.


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 8, 2012)

Ya know - it is for tint, but I would anticipate a bit more throw (or rather - the same amount of throw with a smaller spot).

Just to be clear - I've already tried the following LEDs in the light:
T6-E3 - a bit green
T4-E5 - best looking neutral overall
T3-E7 - way too yellow

I just still not completely satisfied. And, this is really an experiment. I just got a TCR2 off fleabay this weekend and I really like the light, but it's got it's issues as well (heavy, long, poor battery life, flickers on CR123, etc) but it's still pretty awesome. I'm trying to find the happy medium. I've been using a McR18S reflector to smooth out the beam for more indoor use and that reflector is really great with the XP-G and still has nice flood - so I anticipate it will still work well as long as I can shim it just right.

My main concern is frying the XP-G. Once I get the LED mounted I will put an ammeter at the tailcap and measure the current for both a CR123 and a 18350 (likely the UltraFire and not the IMR) to see where the limits are. I'll report back later with some results - and try to take a few pictures along the way.


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## gunga (Oct 8, 2012)

Interesting. Would love to hear about your results!


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 8, 2012)

*Jetbeam tcr 01 XP-G2 mod*

I spent about an hour working on the XP-G2 Neutral (R4 5B4) mod.

I removed the bezel and reflector and then un-soldered the mPCB. Test fit a few different PCBs and a 14x2mm round seemed to fit the best and was also the closest in thickness to the original. Re-flowed my XP-G2 onto the board. Added some Arctic thermal pasted under the PCB and soldered the leads back on. I placed the XML centering ring back in place - it's sitting loosely but held firm with the pressure from the reflector. Put in my trimmed McR18S reflector with a tiny o-ring at the top. Screwed bezel back in place.

First thing was some current measurements to make sure I wasn't going to fry the LED. 
CR123 - 1.1A at the tailcap. Very safe to run and plenty bright as you'll see below.
UF 18350 - ~1.8A. This is a strong overdrive but it is bright. The spot is just as bright as the stock light with the XML on high (neutral T4-E5 XML) but with much less light in the flood. I'm not too concerned about the overdrie because it wouldn't be used that high for any extended period of time and I am seeing 1.7A overdriven P60 XP-G2 drop-ins available in the custom BST threads.

Initial impressions: I love the tint much better than what any XML will produce. I'm not completely set on the reflector placement. I think the LED is sitting too high into the reflector because the spill is much too wide and I know the McR18S can produce a much tighter spot from the McGizmo Ti-PDS XP-G mods I've done in the past. A 0.5mm shim may just do the trick. I don't have a standard McR18, but that may also produce a very nice beam with a slightly tighter spot (very similar to a Spy007 XP-G)

Onto the pictures:
PCB soldered in place.






Full assembly.









TCR1 with T4-E5 neutral XML. CR123 on full power. Stock reflector.





TCR1 with XP-G2 R4-5B4 mod. CR123 on full power. McR18S modded reflector.





Comparison shot. TCR1 T4-E5 XML on left, XP-G2 R4-5B4 on right. Both running CR123 on full power. Distance approx 5ft.





Close-up comparison shot. TCR1 T4-E5 XML on left, XP-G2 R4-5B4 on right. Both running CR123 on full power. Distance approx 1ft.


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## gunga (Oct 8, 2012)

This could work with a nichia 219 as well right? They max out at 1.5A I think. 

Btw, how much modding/shimming is needed for the reflector?


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 8, 2012)

Right now the reflector is sitting right on the centering ring. I had to reduce the outer diameter of the top most ring. I am sure there are a few here with lathes that could turn it down quicker and prettier, but I did it by hand rolling it over a piece of sandpaper.


----------



## gunga (Oct 8, 2012)

Also, do you think an imr would fry the xpg2?


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 8, 2012)

I'm hesitant to try it. A fresh IMR may hold the voltage and really push it too far. So far so good with the UF18350 with short bursts (15-30s) on high.


----------



## fyrstormer (Oct 9, 2012)

I've been using IMRs in my TC-R1 since I bought it without any problem.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 9, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> I've been using IMRs in my TC-R1 since I bought it without any problem.



Yes - with the XML that should be no problem. Gunga was talking about IMRs with the XPG2 in there.


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## aau007 (Oct 9, 2012)

gunga said:


> Also, do you think an imr would fry the xpg2?



Correct me if I am wrong. I thought those drivers are designed to "give" the maximum of certain current, not pumping them out regardless of the draw. Therefore, it would depend on how much the xpg2 would draw maximum, not to exceed what the driver will give. In this case, if the driver will give up to 3A and the xpg2 will only pull a max of say 1.5A, the driver will only supply the requested 1.5A, not pumping the entire 3A where it is capable of. Think of constant voltage with current limiting.


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 9, 2012)

aau007 said:


> Correct me if I am wrong. I thought those drivers are designed to "give" the maximum of certain current, not pumping them out regardless of the draw. Therefore, it would depend on how much the xpg2 would draw maximum, not to exceed what the driver will give. In this case, if the driver will give up to 3A and the xpg2 will only pull a max of say 1.5A, the driver will only supply the requested 1.5A, not pumping the entire 3A where it is capable of. Think of constant voltage with current limiting.



No - not in this particular application. When you are running Li Ions in these lights they are basically driving the LED with direct drive. The LED will take as much current as the battery will supply. As the V of the battery drops the current tends to drop as well. It has more to do with the effective resistance of the LED than the driver itself in direct drive. 

Also in direct drive you need to take into account the internal resistance of the battery too. So the resistance of the LED, the circuit and the battery summed up over the voltage of the battery will determine the current of the system. IMR cells have significantly lower internal resistance so overall circuit resistance is less and less voltage will be dropped across the cell and more across the LED and circuit - thus causing higher overall circuit currents.

This is all basic circuit theory and why batteries heat up when you push them. It has nothing to do with the fact they are pushing a lot of current and has everything to do with the fact they act like a resistor in the circuit just like all the other components and absorb their own chunk of the energy which gets dissipated as heat.


----------



## kaichu dento (Oct 9, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> No - not in this particular application. When you are running Li Ions in these lights they are basically driving the LED with direct drive. The LED will take as much current as the battery will supply.


Sounds like someone needs to be pretty cautious not to run on high too long if they do go with an XP-G then. I'm staying with the XM-L for now myself.


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## aau007 (Oct 9, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> No - not in this particular application. When you are running Li Ions in these lights they are basically driving the LED with direct drive. The LED will take as much current as the battery will supply. As the V of the battery drops the current tends to drop as well. It has more to do with the effective resistance of the LED than the driver itself in direct drive.
> 
> Also in direct drive you need to take into account the internal resistance of the battery too. So the resistance of the LED, the circuit and the battery summed up over the voltage of the battery will determine the current of the system. IMR cells have significantly lower internal resistance so overall circuit resistance is less and less voltage will be dropped across the cell and more across the LED and circuit - thus causing higher overall circuit currents.
> 
> This is all basic circuit theory and why batteries heat up when you push them. It has nothing to do with the fact they are pushing a lot of current and has everything to do with the fact they act like a resistor in the circuit just like all the other components and absorb their own chunk of the energy which gets dissipated as heat.



Does that mean the LED itself does not have enough resistance inside so it would only draw up to 1.5A (for example) of current? Instead, it would draw whatever current the driver can supply until it blows itself up? Is that the reason why you can overdrive an LED?


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 9, 2012)

Are you referring to the max 1.5A rated current of the XPG2?


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## aau007 (Oct 9, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> Are you referring to the max 1.5A rated current of the XPG2?


Yes. Are you saying that even though the xpg2 is rated at 1.5A max, it will draw whatever current available in a direct drive to the point it just blows itself up?

What does the 1.5A max in xpg2 imply?
1. xpg2 has a maximum draw of 1.5A. Due to the internal resistance of the LED, xpg2 will not draw more than 1.5A at the max.
2. xpg2 is rated at 1.5A recommended max and if you supply more than 1.5A, you will start to overdrive the LED until at some point the LED will just blow up.


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 9, 2012)

#2 is correct. It's a max safe recommendation.

And now..... back to our TCR1 thread..... 

I put the stock reflector back in and the throw is pretty impressive but the beam is wicked ugly. It looks like the reflector itself had rings and ripples in it that I can't understand. 

I'm having some trouble focusing the McR18S and I think its just coming down to it being a bit of a floody reflector when used with a XPG2. I'm going to order a McR18 from Wayne and see if that can't produce a tighter beam. I remember some people talking about trimming a McR20 to fit with the XML (wow - that must've taken a while as that's a lot of material to remove.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 11, 2012)

The beam with the stock reflector and XP-G2 is pretty ugly, but I've added a light diffuser film to the lens with a >85% transmission and it looks a little better. No worse that the stock XML and reflector combo. The throw with the XP-G is way better that the stock XML (mind you this is a T6 XML vs R4 neutral XP-G2) and there is over 1A less current draw on the XP-G2.

Still going to try the McR18 when is comes in to see if I can get a nicer beam without any sacrifices.


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## aau007 (Oct 11, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> ... to see if I can get a nicer beam without any sacrifices.



Not sure if I am following. What's your expectation with "a nicer beam" and what are you not willing to sacrify? "Nicer" is really subjective. Can you quantify? Then we all know you are going to lose lumens over a xml so that does not count. Lower current you should get higher run time though so you actually gain something.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 11, 2012)

Sorry - that wasn't very clear overall.

The following is a given:
XP-G2 < XM-L for overall lumens
XP-G2 > XM-L for overall throw

By nicer I am referring to the XP-G2 in the stock SMO reflector vs. a LOP reflector that still produces a beam with a quality and throwy spot a smooth corona and a clean spill. The SMO reflector is VERY ringy (I'll post a pic later) but the McR18S produces too big a spot and the difference between the XP-G2 and the XM-L diminishes.


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## aau007 (Oct 11, 2012)

So we know the stock SMO won't get it. 

For LOP reflector, sounds like the McR18S gives the the smoothness but not the throw. Have you tried the one from the Niteye Eye10 or the ARC reflector that someone here on the board installed?


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## Fireclaw18 (Oct 11, 2012)

aau007 said:


> So we know the stock SMO won't get it.
> 
> For LOP reflector, sounds like the McR18S gives the the smoothness but not the throw. Have you tried the one from the Niteye Eye10 or the ARC reflector that someone here on the board installed?



Nite Eye10 reflector should fit perfectly, since internally I think they are the exactly the same light. However, buying an Eye10 just to salvage the reflector is rather pricey.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 11, 2012)

I had to look up the Eye10 just to see from the pics that it is nearly 95% the same light as the TCR1/RRT01. I agree that $80 for a reflector is a bit expensive. Maybe there's a way to get a replacement reflector.


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## aau007 (Oct 11, 2012)

I think frystormer and f250xlt tried the arc6 reflector on the rrt01, which is essential the AL version of tcr01.

Search the rrt-01 thread and you will find their posts about using the arc6 reflector.


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## fyrstormer (Oct 12, 2012)

I actually tried mine on the TC-R1, not the RRT-01. However, both lights are structurally identical, so the Arc6 reflector will work on both. The front edge of the reflector does need to be sanded-down to fit properly, though.


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## aau007 (Oct 12, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> ... The front edge of the reflector does need to be sanded-down to fit properly, though.



What do you mean by "front edge"? Do you mean the "front" as in the edge against the lens or the "front" as in the front of the LED side?


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 12, 2012)

Isn't the Arc6 reflector a McR18? I could be mistaken.


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## kaichu dento (Oct 12, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> I had to look up the Eye10 just to see from the pics that it is nearly 95% the same light as the TCR1/RRT01. I agree that $80 for a reflector is a bit expensive. Maybe there's a way to get a replacement reflector.


I swapped the reflectors the moment my EYE10 showed up in the mail - instant beam improvement, and the EYE10 still works too!


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 12, 2012)

What did you put in to the EYE10 for a reflector?
I sent an email to Niteye about getting a replacement reflector and they diverted me over to GoingGear as a distributor.


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## kaichu dento (Oct 12, 2012)

I just swapped the TC-R1 and EYE10 reflectors. I actually bought a couple of Arc6 reflectors when Fyrestormer offered them up, but sold one and still have the other sitting unused.


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## fyrstormer (Oct 12, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> Isn't the Arc6 reflector a McR18? I could be mistaken.


It's not a McR18. I measured the Arc6 reflector and compared its measurements to the published McR18 spec, and it was somewhat different.


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## fyrstormer (Oct 12, 2012)

aau007 said:


> What do you mean by "front edge"? Do you mean the "front" as in the edge against the lens or the "front" as in the front of the LED side?


The front is always the front. The front is never the back. The front of the reflector is the part closest to the front of the light.


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## Heywood Floyd (Oct 26, 2012)

Hello, anyone still here? I just purchased a new TCR1 and unfortunately for me it is faulty. It will wake from the slider control off position without input from the user. There's usually some flashing involved. Anyway it is defective and JetBeam have advised me there are no exchanges possible or spares available due to its limited production. So for all considering a new purchase at this late stage please beware.


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## beach honda (Oct 27, 2012)

After reading several reports similar to yours, I became worried about that particular issue happening with my unit. Although it displayed ZERO faulty behavior and despite me really enjoying that light, I sold it in fear of the exact situation you describe.

I eventually purchased an RRT-01, it's the aluminum version and still currently produced. ...Still one of my favorite lights.
:shrug:


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## Hidebo (Oct 31, 2012)

Hello. Anyone know if TCR1 can use 3.7V 16340 battery?


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## Fireclaw18 (Oct 31, 2012)

Hidebo said:


> Hello. Anyone know if TCR1 can use 3.7V 16340 battery?



Yes it works fine with 16340. It can even use the slightly larger 18350.

On AW IMR 18350 it will output around 550 lumens.


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## Hidebo (Oct 31, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Yes it works fine with 16340. It can even use the slightly larger 18350.
> 
> On AW IMR 18350 it will output around 550 lumens.



Thank you! I will get 18350.


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## kaichu dento (Nov 1, 2012)

Hidebo said:


> Thank you! I will get 18350.


You're going to like it, both the TC-R1 and the greater charge capacity of the 18350.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Nov 7, 2012)

I've been experimenting with stonewashing and my first actual light that I performed a run on was one of my TC-R1s. It took some time and a few runs with different stone combinations but I like the way the final result came out. Gives the light a bit of character.


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## KuanR (Nov 7, 2012)

Looks good. I was thinking of trying this with ceramic media in a bottle, tossed into the dryer for different timed tumbles but never got around to it


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Nov 8, 2012)

I tried it with some ceramic media but I don't think it was rough enough and didn't do much. I ended up using a mix of random gravel rock with some BBs mixed in for a polishing effect - blended with a bit of water and a squirt of dish soap. Did that for about 24 hours. The surface was a bit rough feeling so I then ran the light in BBs for about an hour to smooth it out. (Yes I know there are more ideal options to BBs, but they were cheap and locally available and I didn't have to order a 20lb box. Very interestingly I ran the light first with just BBs to see what would happen and I think it may be the best polishing mechanism I've seen to date - I mean the light came out smooth, sparkling and shining).

Be sure to remove the lenses, rubber gaskets, batteries and all electronics if you intend to do this.


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## Hacken (Nov 8, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Ouch! over 200? I might have to pass.



second that..


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## KuanR (Nov 8, 2012)

What kind of BB's did you use? I'm interested in the polishing aspect...


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Nov 8, 2012)

KuanR said:


> What kind of BB's did you use? I'm interested in the polishing aspect...



Nothing special. A package of 6000 Copperhead bbs purchased at Walmart.


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## Darksoul (Nov 9, 2012)

> _Hey,
> 
> I really apologize about the delay, but we are still waiting on JETBeam to send us back the warranty lights we have sent out to be repaired. We are hoping to have the lights returned to us soon, as they send them in with our shipments of restock. As soon as we get the light back, we will expedite it to you. Please let us know if you have any other questions.
> 
> Thanks,_



An we are now a month further! I have mailed GoingGear 3 times,:


> Hey,
> 
> I apologize for the delay in response, I just sent an email to JETBeam/Niteye right now to see if I can get them to track down your light.
> 
> ...





> On 11/8/2012 6:16 AM, wrote:
> Hello Andy,
> 
> Did you get a response from the E-mail je send to JETBeam/Niteye a week ago...?
> ...



Blaaahh i hate this! I'm waiting now more then 7 (!) months for my Jetbeam...


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## Ragnar66 (Nov 9, 2012)

That stinks man......hope you get em soon


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## RobME (Nov 18, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> I tried it with some ceramic media but I don't think it was rough enough and didn't do much. I ended up using a mix of random gravel rock with some BBs mixed in for a polishing effect - blended with a bit of water and a squirt of dish soap. Did that for about 24 hours. The surface was a bit rough feeling so I then ran the light in BBs for about an hour to smooth it out. (*Yes I know there are more ideal options to BBs, but they were cheap and locally available and I didn't have to order a 20lb box. Very interestingly I ran the light first with just BBs to see what would happen and I think it may be the best polishing mechanism I've seen to date - I mean the light came out smooth, sparkling and shining*).
> 
> Be sure to remove the lenses, rubber gaskets, batteries and all electronics if you intend to do this.


Nope, BB's are pretty much ideal. Otherwise known as *Steel Shot*; It's used as an industry standard for certain applications in vibratory metal finishing. You did better than good by adding the water and detergent. That's Pro.  True, a variety of different tumbling media can be used depending upon the workpiece and desired finish, but steel shot is widely used.


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