# Nitecore SRT7 (XM-L2 White, 3xRGB - 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BEAMSHOTS+



## selfbuilt

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *











The SRT7 (aka "Revenger" ) from Nitecore is the first member of a new "Smart Ring Tactical" SRT series. As the title implies, these lights will use a magnetic control ring – with a continuously-variable output ramp feature. 

The SRT7 is a 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR model that is distinguished by several additional features, including multi-color secondary LEDs. I believe it is also the first Nitecore light I've tested with the latest XM-L2 white LED. Let's see how it compares to the competition … 

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


Utilizes the latest CREE XM-L (XM-L2 T6) LED for a maximum output of up to 960 lumens
Infinite brightness adjustment from 0 to 960 lumens
Boasts a peak beam intensity of 23,256cd and a throw distance of up to 308 meters (ANSI FL1)
High efficiency circuit board provides up to 200 hours runtime on lowest output level
Equipped with unique multi-colored (red, green and blue) tactical / signaling lights
Six rapidly switchable functions to select from
Multi-functional power indicator light displays low battery status
Patented spring-loaded impact absorption mechanism with reverse polarity protection
Stainless steel titanium-plated two-way clip
Stainless steel retaining ring protects core components from damage
Toughened ultra-clear mineral glass with anti-reflective coating
Constructed from aero grade aluminum alloy
Robust HAIII military grade hard-anodized
Waterproof in accordance with IPX-8 (two meters submersible)
Impact resistant to 1.5 meters
Tail stand capability
Purpose-designed for law enforcement, hunting and tactical applications.
The world’s first line of flashlights to feature third generation SSR (smart selector ring) technology
Smoothly and rapidly select brightness levels and function by rotating a smart selector ring
Second generation of ‘Crystal Coating Technology’ along with ‘Precision Digital Optics Technology’ provide extreme reflector performance

Dimensions: Length: 158mm, Head diameter: 40 mm, Tube diameter: 25.4mm
Weight: 173g (without battery)
Accessories: Quality holster, removable clip, tactical ring, lanyard, spare tail cap button and spare O-ring
MSRP: ~$110






The SRT7 comes in standard Nitecore retail packaging. Inside, you will find the light, holster, wrist strap, hard plastic grip ring, extra o-rings and tail boot cover, pocket clip, manual and warranty card. 













From left to right: AW Protected 18650; Nitecore SRT7, P25, MH25; Eagletac G25C2-II; Sunwayman T21CS; Armytek Predator Pro v2.5.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Nitecore SRT7*: Weight: 172.4g, Length: 158mm, Width (bezel): 40.0m
*Eagletac G25C2-II* (stock): Weight 141.0g, Length: 150.6mm, Width: 39.6mm
*Eagletac TX25C2*: Weight 93.6g, Length: 120.4mm, Width (bezel): 31.6mm
*Klarus RS11*: Weight 158.0g, Length: 160mm, Width (bezel) 34.9mm
*Nitecore MH25*: Weight: 145.4g, Length: 160mm, Width (bezel): 40.0m
*Nitecore P25*: Weight: 171.3g, Length: 160mm, Width (bezel): 40.0m
*Olight M22*: Weight: 148.4g, Length: 144.8mm, Width: 41.2mm (bezel)
*Sunwayman T21CS*: Weight 161.9g, Length: 154mm Width (bezel): 41.4mm

Overall size and weight is similar to the Nitecore P25. This is slightly longer and heavier than some other lights in this class – due in part to to control ring on the SRT7 (and the charging dock on the P25). 






























Anodizing is a shiny black, with no chips on my sample. Labels are bright white and clear against the dark background. The SRT7 has a number of grip elements, starting with bands of knurling over the tailcap and body tube (I would describe this knurling as medium aggressiveness, comparable to the P25). Combined with all the ridge detail, overall grip is good. With either the included grip ring or pocket clip installed, grip and anti-roll should be more than sufficient.

The control ring has a fair amount of knurling on it, and I found it easy to identify by touch. Control ring feel is excellent – not too stiff, not too loose. There are also very clear "detents" that ring enters into before switching into other possible output modes (more on that in a moment – see my User Interface section for a discussion).

The SRT7 build is very similar to the P25, and shares its "tactical" focus. For example, these lights both feature head and tail springs (i.e., to be able to handle weapon recoil without momentary breaking of battery contact). Nitecore has mounted a physical reverse-polarity ring on the positive contact spring in the head, so only small button-top cells will work in this light. All of my small-button cells worked fine, except my Eagletac 3400mAh cells were a bit inconsistent (i.e., didn't seem to work at first, but now seem to be working ok) :shrug: The battery tube is wide enough to take higher-capacity protected 18650 cells. 

Tail screw threads are standard triangular cut, and seem of good quality. They are also anodized at the tail for lock-out. :thumbsup: Interestingly, there are square-cut (or more precisely, trapezoidal) threads in the head region. Note that although the battery tubes look virtually identical, the P25 and SRT7 can only swap tailcaps, not heads (i.e., there is a different pattern to the thread design at the head-region of the body tube).

Tail switch is a forward clicky, with traditional feel, identical the P25. Lights can tailstand, and there are raised areas for the lanyard attachment. However, I found my sample fairly wobbly when tailstanding (although loosening of the tailcap retaining ring may help).

There is a low-voltage red LED warning indicator located on the head. This will flash to indicate when the batteries are running low.

The head is where things get really interesting:










The SRT7 has a very distinctive reflector/emitter combo. oo: Overall dimensions are similar to the Nitecore P25 (i.e., same size opening and bezel ring, with relatively deep reflectors with a smooth finish). But as you can see, there are three equidistant cut-outs along the periphery or the SRT7 reflector that house tri-colored LED diodes. These wells are quite deep, and well placed to minimize any beam artifacts for the main white LED beam (see beamshots later in this review).

I've seen a few other lights with this arrangement, although they usually sport 5mm colored LEDs. In this case, each cut-out has a multi-diode arrangement, and all three produce the color of interest. Check out the images below. 














The tri-LED effect is bound to produce some artifacts in the colored beam. Again, see the beamshot section later in this review for more info.

Note that the SRT7 uses a fairly common 40mm bezel opening diameter, so a number of possible beam diffusers will fit. Shown below is the Nitecore NFD40, but I personally find the Olight M21X/M22 is a more snug fit.






One comment here – the diffusers can also be useful for the tri-colored LEDs (as you will see in the beamshots below, artifacts can be an issue). However, depending the margin of the diffuser cover frame, this may block some of the colored output (i.e., the colored LEDs are at the periphery of the reflector).






Again, scroll down for some actual beamshots for this light.

*User Interface*

The SRT7 has a forward tailcap clicky - press and release for momentary on, click for locked on. 

Mode switching is controlled by the magnetic control ring in the head. As previously mentioned, the SRT7 features a continuously-variable interface for the main white LED. But there are actually quite a number of modes you can select on this model. Note that you can select your desired mode while the light is off, if you remember the sequence.

The various output modes on the ring are set or separated by very clear detents (i.e., the ring stays firmly in position, and needs a fair amount of force to move into the next mode). Starting at the far left (i.e., holding the light out in front of you, with the ring all the way to the left), as you turn the ring to the right (clockwise), you get the following outputs modes:

White Beacon > Police Strobe (flashing blue/red) > Blue > Green > Red > Standby off > Continuously-variable ramp (over ~110 degree turn of the ring between detents) > Max White > White Strobe.

Again, each mode is set in a clear detent of the ring, except for the continuously-variable ramp (which is between the Standby off and Max detents). This means that if you keep the ring between these two detents, you will never see any of the other modes. It is only if you exceed this range to the right (for Strobe) or left (for colored modes, and eventually Beacon) do you see any of these additional modes. 

An interesting feature of the light is that it shows a "soft start" if you click it On with the control ring set to any level except Max (i.e., comes on low, and quick ramps up to the set level in under a second). Note that the light doesn't do this once you reach the Max level - there, it simply jumps straight to Max from Off. if I were to hazard a guess, Nitecore may have done this for those who like to have immediate momentary access to max output (i.e., for the "tactical" crowd). As has been pointed out in the commentary below, this is the same pattern as the Sunwayman V20C.

But what I like here is that turning the control-ring in the continuously-variable portion while On similarly shows a soft-start-like pattern - i.e., there is a slight lag for the brightness to "catch up" to the new set level. Scroll down for a discussion of the continuously-variable ramping pattern – this too is rather unique. 

The video link below should help clarify the interface. I found it easy to get used to in practice – it is quite sophisticated, while being easy to learn.

*Video*: 

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

*Continuously-Variable Ramp*:

As if all that weren't enough, the ramping pattern is where things get particularly exciting for me.  Of course, if you aren't interested in all the technical explanation below, you can skip ahead to the beamshots - safe in the knowledge that the SRT7 ramp will seem quite "linear" to your relative perceptions. 

Long time readers of my reviews will know that I have spent a lot of time categorizing the ramping patterns of different continuously-variable lights. The control mechanism can either be time-based (i.e., ramps over a range in a set time, with the ability to stop at any point), or distance-based (i.e., turn a ring to specific point to select an output, along a set degree range of levels). The SRT7 falls into the latter category, like most magnetic control ring lights.

But what truly separates continuously-variable lights is the ramping pattern – is it "circuit-linear" (meaning output changes directly proportional to current), or is some sort of "visually-linear" correction used (so that the light appears to ramp evenly across our perceptual range)? Early lights were typically circuit-linear, but this makes it hard to select relatively low output levels (i.e., due to the non-linear way we perceive output, these lights seem to spend most of their ramp at the near-maximal levels).

The common way to "visually-linearize" a ramp has been do a logarithmic adjustment in the circuit. Logarithms have long been used to try to compensate for a number of non-linear systems, including our relative visual perceptions (e.g. the stops of camera are logarithmic). 

However, it turns out that a logarithmic adjustment is not accurate for our visual perceptions. While it may seem so over relatively narrow (and bright) output ranges, this relationship clearly breaks down when you go to more extreme levels (e.g., ultra-low levels). Extensive scientific research over the last several decades has revealed distinct power relationships that better correlate to our various relative sensory perceptions. For perceived brightness of a non-point source of light, the currently accepted linearization method is actually a cube root of output. For a full discussion of this - including detailed graphs and primary literature references - please see this post and the subsequent discussion. 

To put the SRT7 in context to other continuously-variable lights of the same class, here is what my lightbox reports as you turn the ring:






The Jetbeam RRT21 is a classic example of circuit-linear ramp, and the Sunwayman V20C is good example of a logarithmic "visually-linear" ramp. The Niwalker NWK600N1 seems to use a hybrid approach, with a mainly circuit-linear ramp, but with a correction factor to adjust relative outputs near the maximal levels. Among these three, I definitely prefer the logarithmic-ramp approach of the V20C.

But you should be able to tell that there is something different about the SRT7.  To help us figure out what that is, it is useful to correct the lightbox output by the actual correction factor that most closely correlates for how we perceive light (i.e., a cube-root). This is known as the Stevens’ power law relationship for perceived brightness, and is plotted below:






_This is what you can subjectively expect to see when you handle the lights._ As expected, the "visually-linear" V20C will subjectively spend a lot of time at the lower output levels, while the "circuit-linear" RRT-21 spends most of the range of the dial choosing between near-maximal outputs. While the V20C model is preferable, it likely won't seem consistently linear to you.

But notice how "linear" the SRT7 looks on this perceived brightness plot? That tells me that Nitecore is _presumably using a cube-root correction factor instead of a logarithmic one for the SRT7_ – as I have long argued for. It means that for practical purposes, the SRT7 will seem truly visually "linear" for your relative perceptions, at all levels.

It's nice to know that someone is actually reading these reviews. :laughing: I hope we continue to see more lights with a cube-root visual correction factor.

As an aside, you will notice that the SRT7 doesn't go quite as low as some other continuously-variable lights. See my detailed output/throw summary tables later in the review for more info. 

Also, if you turn the ring rapidly, keep in mind that there is a lag in how quickly it adjusts output (i.e., like the "soft start" effect from off). This wasn't a confound for my ramping analysis above, as I turn the ring very slowly to measure the ramp patterns.

*PWM/Strobe*

There is no sign of pulse-width-modulation (PWM), at any level. I presume the light is current-controlled.  

Police Strobe:

The signal is too low for my oscilloscope, but the Police Strobe pattern is interesting - it is a rapid strobe of numerous red flashes (over ~0.7 secs), followed by similarly rapid set of blue flashes (over ~0.7secs), in an infinitely repeating loop (i.e., alternating red and blue). It is apparently designed reproduce the effect of a police car's flashing red/blue lights. Maybe it's just me, but I don't think attempting to imitate a police cruiser is necessarily a very good idea for civilians. 

White Strobe:





The tactical strobe (white LED) is a very high pulse frequency strobe, of 22Hz frequency. But it also has an usual pulse width – as you can see above, there is a relatively short "on" phase (i.e. it is only on about ~25% of the time). This differs from most Strobes, which typically use a 50:50 pulse width (i.e., on for half the pulse, off for the half the pulse). But I often see shortened on-pulse durations in lights with really high strobe pulse frequencies.

In any case, you can rest assured that the strobe is extremely disorienting. 

Beacon:





The beacon mode a single rapid flash, once every ~2.3 secs or so.

*Standy Drain*

Thanks the to the tailcap clicky switch, you can always turn the light completely off (i.e., no standby current). :thumbsup:

There is a standby position on the control ring, just below the continuously-variable ramp. I measured the current at this standby level as 430uA on a 1x18650 (although it periodically jumps to just under 4mA every few secs when the standby indicator lights up). As such, it is hard to provide an estimate for the "average" current. For a typical 18650 battery, I would expect you should still get at least several months before it would be fully drained. This is not unreasonable for short-term use – but I recommend you keep the light clicked off (or locked out) at the tailcap when not in current use.

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences.





























































There really isn't much of a difference above - beam pattern of the SRT7 is very much in keeping with the other recent 18650 lights in this class. Note that overall output of SRT7 is not quite as high on 1x18650 as 2x sources (see output tables later in this review).

One thing that is quite impressive is the general lack of artifacts in the spill of the main white LED of the SRT7 (given those three colored LED cut-out wells). :thumbsup: The heavily recessed wells have clearly done the trick here – you would be hard pressed to notice anything amiss from the white LED beam alone.

But let's see how the individual colored beams make out:





































In a word, ugh. :tinfoil: To be fair, ~0.75m is a ridiculously close distance to be using the light. But I kept the common distance to show you the variable nature of the artifact/interference pattern of the multi-LED setup. As you go out the greater distances, these artifacts become less noticeable, but they remain present.

If you are going to use the colored beams extensively, you may want to consider a good quality diffuser. This will cut the output to some degree – especially around the periphery, depending on how much of a frame the diffuser cover has (as explained earlier).

For outdoor beamshots, these are done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground). FYI, any "streaks" you see across the images are bug-trails. Flying insects are often attracted to the bright lights, and their flight trails get captured as swirly streaks due to the long exposure time.  Also, ignore any tint differences below – they are mainly due to the automatic white balance setting on the camera.






There really isn't much difference between these three lights in practice, so I'm bit surprised at how the beamshots look (i.e., the G25C2-II appears to have a throw and output advantage, and the M22 seems a bit dimmer than the other two). I think this is mainly a combination of tint differences with the auto white balance (i.e. M22 is warmer), and the exact focusing (i.e., less corona reflected on the road with the M22). In real life, I was not able to discern any significant difference in throw between these three light.

Note as well that all lights were on 1x18650. I have observed that the SRT7 is brighter on 2x sources. See my direct output and runtime measures below for more info.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).
















First observation is that the SRT7 is brighter on 2x battery sources than 1x18650. Both max levels are still within a comparable range to other high-output XM-L2 lights in my collection. Note that my estimated lumens at this level are consistently under-reported for many lights – I had few high output lights when originally calibrating my lightbox. As always, I recommend you use my estimated lumens as a _relative_ guide to comparing lights in my collection, not as an absolute accuracy indicator. 

One thing I can confidently say is that my SRT7 does not go down to the report "0.1 lumens" specified by Nitecore. My sample is at least an order of magnitude brighter than that (i.e., >1 lumen). I believe my lightbox is very well calibrated at this low lumen scale.

In terms of throw, the SRT7 is also quite similar to other high-output XM-L and XM-L2 lights in my collection. Throw is definitely good for the class.

_UPDATE JULY 11, 2013: I've been asked to estimate the output of the colored LEDs. Note that my lightbox calibration is based on white LEDs, so I don't know if the relationship holds consistently for the specific colors. But using my standard white LED calibration, I get the following:

Lowest white level: 1.3 lumens
Red: 3.3 lumens
Green: 12 lumens
Blue: 6.1 lumens

These lightbox readings approximate what I see by eye, but again, can't say if the relative calibration holds for all specific colors._

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*

_Note: Unless otherwise stated, all my runtimes below are based on AW 2200mAh 18650 cells._
























Again, you can see that the SRT7 is not quite as bright on 1x18650 as 2x battery sources. The light is well regulated, and there is the same double step-down pattern on Max as the P25, on all battery sources (i.e., there are two distinct, yet gradual, timed steps down during the Max runs). As before, you can always click off/on to restore initial max output.

Overall, the output/runtime efficiency is very similar to defined-level Nitecore P25, and several of my other current-controlled lights. For a continuously-variable light, this is an excellent showing. 

_UPDATE JUNE 16,2013: I realize the graphs above are a little crowded, so here is a direct comparison of 2xRCR and 1x18650, on Max:






As you can see above, there is a gradual drop-off over the first 6 mins (although you would never be able to see by eye). After the first step-down, the light keep a regulated level (indifinitely for 2xRCR, for a short period on 18650). At 20mins, another step-down occurs.

It is interesting that the 1x18650 and 2xRCR both step-down to the same level. In terms of the 18650 results above, I expect the newer higher capacity 18650s would probably stay at a regulated level longer, after the first step-down. But I haven't tested that yet.

UPDATE JUNE 17, 2013: Ok, here are the extra 18650 runtimes:






As you can see, the 3100mAh cell is able to maintain flat regulation of the full first 20 mins (plus an extra half hour later). Interestingly, the 3400mAh started to drop out of regulation a couple of minutes before the 20min step down (but also does an extra half hour at the lower level). Overall runtime is longer with the greater capacity cells, as expected.

So it seems to be very dependent on the type of cell you are using, in terms of how long the light can stay regulated.
_

*Potential Issues*

There are no labels to indicate where you are on the control ring. If you want to turn the light on in a specific mode, you have to remember the mode sequence and count the number of detents before activation.

Flat-top cells will not work in the light. And even among small button top cells, you will need to have a significant protrusion. _UPDATE: I originally reported that my relatively short button-top Eagletac 3400mAh cells didn't work in the light, but they do seem to be working now. I suspect these cells are right at the border of what the contact plate in the head with accept, so you may experience some intermittent issues with these particular cells on some lights._

The light has a physical on-off switch, so no standby current is present when clicked off or locked out at the tailcap. There is a Standby off detent on the control ring, which would drain a 18650 in a few months (if not clicked off or locked out). 

As with the P25, the low-voltage LED indicator comes on within a few seconds on near-max output levels on a 1x18650 (even with a fully charged cell). This feature seemed to more accurately gauge power remaining with multiple cells, making me think it was confused by the high current drain on a single 18650 on Turbo.

*Preliminary Observations*

The SRT7 is an impressive light – both for its feature set, and its well-thought-out implementation. :thumbsup: Although there are a few minor points (see above), this inaugural member of the "Smart Ring Tactical" family shows a careful attention to detail on Nitecore's part.

I can clearly see the design heritage here – the SRT7 builds heavily on the physical frame of the P25 (which in turn drew from elements of the MH25). But the control interface is distinctive. I haven't seen a control ring with a visually-linear, continuously variable ramp on a Nitecore light since the IFE2 over 2 years ago. And I like the implementation here – the ring has a good feel, with sharp detents and smooth motion. 

The nice thing about a control ring is you can always tell where you are ahead of time – before you turn on the light.  That said, you do need to memorize the mode sequence here, which is a bit more complicated due to all the extra features. The only thing that might have helped is identifying mode labels on the head/ring, but I could see how that could clutter the look of the light (given the large number of modes available).

The feature set is certainly distinctive. oo: The tri-colored LEDs for red, green and blue produce fairly bright output for this type of light (which is probably due to each of the three emitters containing all three diodes for each color). While there are significant artifacts in the colored beams, it is remarkable how little interference these provide for the main white LED. Frankly, I don't imagine users would notice any really difference in the main beam profile compared to the Nitecore P25.

The implementation of the various blinking modes is also good, placed at the extremes of the ring. If it were me, I would probably have placed Beacon next to Strobe, but that's a minor quibble. While I am not a "tactical" person myself, I expect those that value these sorts of things will generally like the versatility of this interface.

The ramping feature is probably unique in my testing, incorporating two novel features. The most obvious of these is a "soft-start-like" lag in adjusting output (i.e., the light doesn't jump with a quick flick of the ring, but ramps up to the new ring-set level). This isn't actually unique though - the Sunwayman V20C does the same thing. But more subtle and distinctive is the actual ramping pattern - based on my analysis, it appears that Nitecore is using a cube-root adjustment scheme to produce a visually-linear appearance. :bow: As I have long argued, modern perceptual science research has shown that this is more consistent with our actual perceptions of light (compared to the common logarithmic adjustment scheme, which is just an approximate attempt to "visually-linearize"). This is different from the V20C, which uses a logarithmic ramp.

Performance is also top notch – regulation pattern and overall output/runtime efficiency is comparable to the defined-level, current-controlled P25. That's an impressive showing for a continuously-variable light. :thumbsup: 

I know this has been a rather long review, but there is a lot to talk about here. Bottom line, I think Nitecore has done a good job with the implementation of their new SRT feature set. It has been a fun light to play around with. :wave:

----

SRT7 provided by Nitecore for review.


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## kj2

Thanks for the review  (yes, i'm first again  )

I wonder how the selector-ring will hold-up during months/years of usage.


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## NorthernStar

Outstanding review, as usual! :thumbsup:

The SRT7 really is a nice light.I am completly sold at this light,except for that i share Kj2s concern about the long term use of the selector ring.Can one do maintenance on the ring self(take it apart to grease it) or do one have to send it back to the dealer from one baught it?:thinking:


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## selfbuilt

kj2 said:


> Thanks for the review  (yes, i'm first again  )


You are on a streak. :laughing:



> I wonder how the selector-ring will hold-up during months/years of usage.





NorthernStar said:


> The SRT7 really is a nice light.I am completly sold at this light,except for that i share Kj2s concern about the long term use of the selector ring.Can one do maintenance on the ring self(take it apart to grease it) or do one have to send it back to the dealer from one baught it?:thinking:


The head seems sealed, so not sure how easy it would be for the user to access the ring internals. But this is pretty common on most lights with this sort of control ring.

As magnetic control rings become more common, I see this question coming up around here. It's really hard to predict. The control-ring lights that I have used the most extensively (including EDCing) have all been Sunwayman lights - and they have all held up fine for extended periods without maintenance. Based on my initial impression, I would say the control ring on the SRT7 has a particularly "quality feel" (i.e., on par with my various Sunwayman lights). Again it is subjective, but the control ring here feels improved to me, compared to some of the early control-ring-based Nitecore and Jetbeam lights. Action is smooth yet firm, with consistent activation in my testing so far (i.e. no hiccups or surprises).


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## Flashlightaholic

I bought one of these from the guys at Batterymax in Australia the official Nitecore agents over here. I love this light. So many options. Love the ability to have infinite brightness level by turning the magnetic ring from 0-960 lumen. fantastic construction. Bought it with the Nitecore i4 charger & they have genuine Keeppower panasonic 3400mAh 18650 batteries so my run times are sweet. I cant reaaly say anything bad about this light and i OWN LOTS of flashlights.


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## pinhead

Thank you for this nice review. Here is a video which shows the SRT-7 at night:


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## AbnInfantry

Another wonderful review by selfbuilt. When my SRT7 arrived several days ago, I was disappointed that it didn't appear any brighter than my P25 (both using a Panasonic 3400 mAh 18650 battery); selfbuilt's lumen figures confirm this. I just tried using a pair of 18350 batteries and, as per selfbuilt's tests, there was a slight (to the human eye) increase in brightness. I'm surprised Nitecore didn't incorporate some sort of index markers on the control ring. I'm also puzzled why Nitecore didn't include a crenulated bezel on the SRT7 as they do on the other SRT models. Overall, I think the SRT7 is a fantastic light and I'm really looking forward to receiving a SRT6.


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## whatswrongwithmee

Why did you have to spend so much time to do this amazing review just to make me want to buy one.......? I didn't even like it before but after this awesome review, I really do.


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## selfbuilt

Flashlightaholic said:


> fantastic construction. ... I cant reaaly say anything bad about this light and i OWN LOTS of flashlights.


Thanks for the comments. And I agree - the SRT7 stands out for me as well, especially among the recent spate of Nitecore releases. Not that I had any significant problems with any of the MT-, MH-, EA- or P-series lights I've reviewed this past year. It is just that the SRT7 seems to be a step up from the rest. Physically, I really do see it as an evolution from the MH25, to the P25, to this light.



AbnInfantry said:


> I'm also puzzled why Nitecore didn't include a crenulated bezel on the SRT7 as they do on the other SRT models. Overall, I think the SRT7 is a fantastic light and I'm really looking forward to receiving a SRT6.


If I were to guess (based on my comments above), I suspect they are re-using some of the same parts from the earlier series releases (i.e., SRT7 looks to have the same bezel as the P25). As the rest of the SRT-series comes out, we will probably see more consistently SRT-specific components.



whatswrongwithmee said:


> Why did you have to spend so much time to do this amazing review just to make me want to buy one.......? I didn't even like it before but after this awesome review, I really do.


It was certainly a long review.  I realize my reviews can have that "wanna get" effect though - not that I intend them to. In some cases, this surprises me (especially when I feel a light has a number of issues). In this case, I can understand the feeling - the SRT7 is distinctive, and well implemented. Of course, if you already have a light with equivalent output/throw, and don't need the colored modes ...  But it can be fun to play around with something new, which is what keeps me coming back to reviews.

Personally, I'm always glad to hear when my reviews have helped prevent someone from ordering a light they wouldn't be happy with. I also think its better for the field as a whole, as it helps manufacturers focus on the things people actually want to see (and avoid the things they don't). I recall one recent review where I found a decent build, but a lot of circuit issues during detailed testing - the manufacturer responded to me that the review was not going to help them sell lights, but they did appreciate hearing what the problems were (so that they could improve next time). 

But again, it is fun to play with light like this one - which has good performance and novel features, with relatively few limitations/drawbacks.


----------



## mhpreston

Detailed but readable review of a product I got a couple of days ago, which I am really enjoying learning to use. Thanks! Based on my very limited user experience, I think the control ring is an excellent feature and could force other manufacturers to look at similar intuitive controls. I like your point about having the modes labeled and hope we will see that on future enhancements.


----------



## Swede74

> An interesting feature of the light is that it shows a "soft start" if you click it On with the control ring set to a relatively high level (i.e., comes on low, and quick ramps up to the set level in under a second).



Thanks for the review! I always enjoy reading your reviews of more traditional lights, but it was refreshing to come across something a litte out of the ordinary this time. 

In the video (at ~4:15) you show the momentary on and click for on with the control ring first set to what looks like max output, then to a lower output. It is easy to tell that there is a "soft start" when the light is turned on at a lower output, but it is not obvious that it is there at the max output. You mention that the soft start is safer for the battery, so it would be puzzling if it is not there on max output, which I assume put the highest strain on the battery. Maybe it is there but the camera was unable to capture it?

On a jocular note, the photo of the business end of the light with the diffuser and the red LEDs on looks like something a doctor might solemnly present to a patient after an invasive examination.


----------



## NorthernStar

selfbuilt said:


> The light is well regulated, and there is the same double step-down pattern on Max as the P25, on all battery sources (i.e., there are two distinct, yet gradual, timed steps down during the Max runs). As before, you can always click off/on to restore initial max output.



Selfbuilt,i don´t follow the charts really. According to other reviewers and to Nitecores manual, to prevent overheating the SRT7 will step down to high mode after twenty minutes of use in highest mode. When reading your charts it looks like it does steps down in effect after 20 minutes,but before that it looks like it steps down a little in effect every minute when running it at highest mode. Can you please explain a little more how the double stepdown works? :thinking:

Another thing i was thinking about is the Throw/Output Summary Chart. According to it the SRT7 reaches max 790 lumens with 1xAW protected 18650 (2200mAH 3,7v) battery and max 870 lumens with 2x AW protected RCR(750mAh,3,7v) batteries. Does that means that the SRT7 can´t deliver the advertised 960 lumens?


----------



## selfbuilt

Hi all, just a quick update - I've been playing around my various 18650 cells, and I can get my two Eagletac 3400mAh to activate in the light. I had some difficulty at first, but they seem to be working now. :shrug:



Swede74 said:


> In the video (at ~4:15) you show the momentary on and click for on with the control ring first set to what looks like max output, then to a lower output. It is easy to tell that there is a "soft start" when the light is turned on at a lower output, but it is not obvious that it is there at the max output. You mention that the soft start is safer for the battery, so it would be puzzling if it is not there on max output, which I assume put the highest strain on the battery.


Good catch - you are right, there is no "soft start" when the light is dialed the max output level. But all the sub-max levels, it is indeed there. :thinking:

Interesting difference ... if I were to hazard a guess, it might have been designed that way for those who like to have immediate momentary access to max output (i.e., for the "tactical" crowd).



NorthernStar said:


> Selfbuilt,i don´t follow the charts really. According to other reviewers and to Nitecores manual, to prevent overheating the SRT7 will step down to high mode after twenty minutes of use in highest mode. When reading your charts it looks like it does steps down in effect after 20 minutes,but before that it looks like it steps down a little in effect every minute when running it at highest mode. Can you please explain a little more how the double stepdown works? :thinking:


Not exactly - there are two distinct steps: one at 6 mins, and one at 20 mins. I realize the graphs are a bit crowded, so here's a direct comparison of 1x18650 and 2xRCR:






As you can see above, there is a gradual drop-off over the first 6 mins (although you would never be able to see by eye). After the first step-down, the light keep a regulated level (indifinitely for 2xRCR, for a short period on 18650). At 20mins, another step-down occurs.

It is interesting that the 1x18650 and 2xRCR both step-down to the same level. In terms of the 18650 results above, I expect the newer higher capacity 18650s would probably stay at a regulated level longer, after the first step-down. But I haven't tested that yet.



> Another thing i was thinking about is the Throw/Output Summary Chart. According to it the SRT7 reaches max 790 lumens with 1xAW protected 18650 (2200mAH 3,7v) battery and max 870 lumens with 2x AW protected RCR(750mAh,3,7v) batteries. Does that means that the SRT7 can´t deliver the advertised 960 lumens?


As I mentioned in the review, I wouldn't take my lumen estimates to be good _absolute_ values at these levels. They are consistent for _relative_ comparisons only (i.e., in comparison to other lights in that table, and across batteries). My lumen calibration is based mainly on lower output lights, so it's quite possible my numbers underestimate actual output at these levels.


----------



## selfbuilt

deleted - duplicate post.


----------



## NorthernStar

Thank´s for explaining,selfbuilt! :wave:

Now i follow the charts and understand the way how the SRT7 steps down.

If one should use 1x18650 battery with 3400mAh 3,6V in the SRT7,could one also expect higher output besides of longer burntime?


----------



## Jon_tom

A thoughtful and helpful review. Thanks, selfbuilt. 

It seems the SRT7 may have what it takes to be a V20C and G25C2 killer.


----------



## frosty

Great light, great review. Thanks again.


----------



## phantom23

Jon_tom said:


> It seems the SRT7 may have what it takes to be a V20C and G25C2 killer.


Killer? I think it's just different. V20C is much smaller and floodier, G25C2 is slightly smaller, slightly throwier and has fixed modes - you know the runtime.


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## AILL

With 1x18650 I have measured a slghtly different habit, perfectly flat regulated wit steps, please see here:

http://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?118265-Nitecore-SRT-7&p=925810&viewfull=1#post925810

Below You find also a curve with 2XCR123 primaries.

Rgds,

Andreas


----------



## selfbuilt

NorthernStar said:


> Now i follow the charts and understand the way how the SRT7 steps down.
> If one should use 1x18650 battery with 3400mAh 3,6V in the SRT7,could one also expect higher output besides of longer burntime?


No, there will be no difference in output among different 18650 batteries - the effect of greater capacity will be longer runtime. In lights (like this one) where 1x18650 is partially regulated, higher capacity cells usually extend the flat-regulation phase as well as the overall runtime. I will see if I can do a runtime on 3400mAh to compare for you.



AILL said:


> With 1x18650 I have measured a slghtly different habit, perfectly flat regulated wit steps, please see here:


Thank for sharing. That is what I would expect for a higher capacity cell that could maintain longer regulation. What brand/type of 18650 were you using?



Jon_tom said:


> It seems the SRT7 may have what it takes to be a V20C and G25C2 killer.


Like phantom23, I wouldn't say that exactly  - more that the SRT7 has a lot going for it in this class. The G25C2 does have a regulation/runtime advantage, and some may prefer the interface. The G25C2 flip-top diffuser and colored filters can also replicate a lot of the functionality here - depends on your preference.


----------



## AILL

selfbuilt said:


> Thank for sharing. That is what I would expect for a higher capacity cell that could maintain longer regulation. What brand/type of 18650 were you using?




Here I used Keeppower 3100 cells.

Pls. notice also the excellent photos of the light that Zwick2 has taken (two posts above of mine).

Andreas


----------



## tubed

Thanks for the great review.
I find this a strange light in many ways - a whole bunch of new innovations all at once. I love the move towards control rings but the other stuff seems a bit gimicky and I generally steer clear of anything with a lot of gimicks.

One interesting use for these colored LEDs is boating. Having a red and green on your light gives you a backup for a busted navigation light (an all-too-common event for me). So boaters should consider this light. Other than that, I can't really see much use for the many colors.


----------



## mhpreston

Hmm - having lost a few things overboard I am not sure I'd want to add my new SRT7 to the list! Mind you, the strobing 'Port/Starboard' lighting would be fun to use. We confuse other boat owners at the best of times and this would just confirm it!


----------



## markito

So what the best battery choice for this flashlight? 1X18650 or 2x123A?
Thanks for one more excellent review!


----------



## Gryffin

Another excellent review, as always. 

This light was an anomaly for me: one that appealed to me so much, I bought it *before* your review. Trust me, that almost never happens! 

Just got it earlier this week, and so far I'm absolutely loving it. NiteCore hit this one outta the park. It ticks all of my boxes: forward-click/momentary-on, variable output, easy selection of modes while off... Many of the things I love about my ThruNite Scorpion, but done better, and with a more traditional forward clicky.

I think the "feel" of the control ring is the best yet: it's not as "viscous" as the Sunwayman lights, it turns smoother, but with more positive detents. What with the long gap in the variable-output section, it's pretty easy to find the Standby mode by feel, and I've found it easy to remember the rest from there. As for markings, you use a flashlight because it's dark; what good are printed markings in the dark?  

I'm surprised you find the "soft start" on low-to-middle modes unique, since you compare it to the SWM V20C; My V20C exhibits the exact same behavior, it's one of my favorite features. I don't think it has anything to do with reducing stress on the battery, I think it's to reduce stress on the eyes. For "tactical" use, where you want maximum output *now*, there's no soft-start on max output on either light, which makes perfect sense. 

But the SRT7 as a "V20C-killer"? While there may be some overlap in usage, I see these two lights as quite different. The other remarkable thing I admire about the V20C is that it's the same diameter and overall length as the compact P26-class 2xCR123A lights, like the Surefire C2 or Dereelight CL1H, despite the extra complexity of a control ring. The NiteCore SRT7 is a much bigger light, significantly longer and with a big honkin' 40mm bezel. Again, though, for what it offers, it's pretty compact; for instance, it's shorter than my Thrunite Scorpion, even moreso the Scorpion with the turbo head. 

And, "G25C2-II killer"? I dunno, Eagletac isn't shy about driving emitters hard, like they were rented mules. The SRT gets beat on raw output, but yeah, the more added utility of the RGBs plus the more elegant UI put it ahead in my book.

Speaking of the RGBs... I don't know how much use I'll make of those, but hey, they're there if I need 'em, no harm no foul if I don't. I agree though, using that "police strobe" in public might not be a great idea unless you've got a badge on your chest.


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## selfbuilt

markito said:


> So what the best battery choice for this flashlight? 1X18650 or 2x123A?
> Personally, I'm always willing to sacrifice a few lumens for conveninence and runtime, so 1x18650 is my preferred.





Gryffin said:


> I'm surprised you find the "soft start" on low-to-middle modes unique, since you compare it to the SWM V20C; My V20C exhibits the exact same behavior, it's one of my favorite features.


Ah yes, I had forgotten that (so many lights ... ). Yes, the V20C does indeed behave the same way (including the instant-on for max levels).

In terms of competing with the V20C, I agree they are different lights. The upcoming Nitecore SRT6 is probably closer in design, size and function to the V20C (but with updated emitter).

I'm doing a few more 18650 comparison runtimes on Max, and will post when ready ... probably tomorrow, as it's Father's Day dinner tonight. :wave:


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## Gryffin

selfbuilt said:


> I'm doing a few more 18650 comparison runtimes on Max, and will post when ready ... probably tomorrow, as it's Father's Day dinner tonight. :wave:



Enjoy your dinner! Shrimp Scampi's on the menu here. :{9

Any chance you could toss in a coupla 18350s for comparison, too? The SRT7 is one of the few 2xCR123A-class lights I have that takes them comfortably.


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## phantom23

selfbuilt said:


> In terms of competing with the V20C, I agree they are different lights. The upcoming Nitecore SRT6 is probably closer in design, size and function to the V20C (but with updated emitter).


I think SRT6 in terms of size and brightness (but not throw) will be closer to G25C2. SRT5 should be the closest to V20C (almost the same length, slightly thinner head but still more lumens and additional red-blue emitter).


----------



## Jared

I'll try and make this as concise as possible.. I'm real good at rambling. 

First off, thanks selfbuilt!! I don't know what more constructive things I could be doing but reading and cross referencing more of your reviews. :devil:

Like Gryffin, I too bought this light prior to reading your review. Impulse shopping isn't my thing, but I just couldn't resist. Anyway I will say that I'm pretty happy with the light. Few minor gripes though. Compared to my only other 18650 "tactical" light, the Mark I G25C2 NW, output and throw is visually just a small notch better, and build quality is about equal. Probably the worst thing about SRT7 for me is the tint. I wish wish wish they'd offer a NW version, but I'm left with a 6000K+ color with poor CRI. Next gripe is the accessories, I use pocket clips almost exclusively with my lights, but that may have to change. I don't like the clip on feature nor how it interferes with the grip ring... sigh.. speaking of which also really bothers me. It's slippery hard plastic and it never tightens up.. quite wobbly and spins freely. Also the holster isn't the greatest thing either, not allowing the light to be inserted smoothly with the grip ring attached. Compared to the Eagletac package, it really misses the mark. * Manufactures take note, Eagletac's accessories are top notch* 

Next is about the execution of the lights unique features and selling points. Here I will say the RGB's are nice but not great. They need to be at least 50% brighter to be fully useful. Also, their beam patterns are quite spotty. I love the control ring, but I'll still nit-pick. I feel the full travel of the ring wasn't utilized, and that the 'dead' space at either end should have been used to make a finer adjustment interval. Also, I have gotten some glitches out of it, but only at the ends of the ramping sequence and oddly enough_ depending on the physical orientation of the light i.e. relative to gravity._ When the light is switched between the Turbo and Strobe detent, while the beacon led is aprox at the 1-2 o'clock position, the strobe will become variable, i.e. fast, slow, randomizing, inverted duty cycle. I even had the blue and green LEDs come on simultaneously. Very strange. Additionally, when on the Turbo detent, sometimes the orientation of the light will induce random flickering. Move it left of the detent and that stops. And finally, at it's lowest setting, I can get the light to dim/go off by moving the light around in the same fashion. 

Lastly, and this could be said about almost every light. The low needs to be lower. I was really hoping for the claimed 0.1 lumens. :shakehead

Pushing all that aside, and repeating what has been said before, the overall build and UI is excellent. Namely the linear, current controlled, efficiently regulated, soft-start ramping sequence. WE NEED MORE LIKE THIS!!!
PS: Do I see a review for the Armytek Predator v2.5 coming up?  It may very well be my next poor financial decisicion pending test results... That and their soon to be released headlamps.


----------



## Crenshaw

Amazing review as always thanks! :thumbsup: . a buddy of mine bought it and THATS how I found out about this light. its a pretty neat little light, if a tiny bit bright in the low modes.....

Crenshaw


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## selfbuilt

Ok, here are the extra 18650 runtimes:







As you can see, the 3100mAh cell is able to maintain flat regulation of the full first 20 mins (plus an extra half hour later). Interestingly, the 3400mAh started to drop out of regulation a couple of minutes before the 20min step down (but also does an extra half hour at the lower level). Overall runtime is longer with the greater capacity cells, as expected.

So it seems to be very dependent on the type of cell you are using, in terms of how long the light can stay regulated.



Jared said:


> Also, I have gotten some glitches out of it, but only at the ends of the ramping sequence and oddly enough_ depending on the physical
> orientation of the light i.e. relative to gravity._ When the light is switched into between the Turbo and Strobe detent, while the beacon led is aprox at the 1-2 o'clock position, the strobe will become variable, i.e. fast, slow, randomizing, inverted duty cycle. I even had the blue and green LEDs come on simultaneously. Very strange. Additionallly, when on the Turbo detent, sometimes the orientation of the light will induce random flickering. Move it left of the detent and that stops. And finally, at it's lowest setting, I can get the light to dim/go off by moving the light around in the same fashion.


Interesting, thanks for sharing. I haven't observed any issues wih my control ring yet, but I haven't carried it extensively so far.

And yes, I do plan to do an updated Predator review ... but it will be in awhile, as I have a number of light reviews to post before that. :wave:


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## NorthernStar

Selfbuilt,great diagram showing 18650 batteries at max output. It´s easier to read the data this way in a separat diagram.


----------



## phantom23

I think with 3400mAh cell brightness drops to 50% in a little bit more than 1h27min


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## selfbuilt

phantom23 said:


> I think with 3400mAh cell brightness drops to 50% in a little bit more than 1h27min


Haha, yes, that was a cut-and-paste error. I've fixed it, just re-load the specific image. It was 2hr 19mins to 50%.


----------



## Gryffin

Jared said:


> Next gripe is the accessories, I use pocket clips almost exclusively with my lights, but that may have to change. I don't like the clip on feature nor how it interferes with the grip ring... sigh..


 
Yeah, I forgot to mention that, it was a minor disappointment for me, too. Seems it was designed for you to use the clip, OR the grip ring, but not both. I can't even get the clip to stay on if the grip ring is installed, and even with the grip ring off, the clip is pretty scrawny for this size of light.

However, even though I typically like pocket clips on my lights, when I get to this size of light, a sheath is the only way to go. A P26-size light might clip semi-comfortably in a pants pocket, but 40mm? Oh HAIL no. Too dang bulky for this guy.



Jared said:


> speaking of which also really bothers me. It's slippery hard plastic and it never tightens up.. quite wobbly and spins freely.



Weird, mine's pretty solid. No movement at all. I'm OK with the hard plastic, rubber ones tend to catch on everything.



Jared said:


> Also the holster isn't the greatest thing either, not allowing the light to be inserted smoothly with the grip ring attached.



I do wish NiteCore used a heavier, stiffer cordura, but so far I haven't had much trouble getting the light sheathed with the grip ring installed. It's not a "no look" operation, but I've rarely dealt with a flashlight sheath that was.



Jared said:


> Also, I have gotten some glitches out of it, but only at the ends of the ramping sequence and oddly enough_ depending on the physical orientation of the light i.e. relative to gravity._ When the light is switched between the Turbo and Strobe detent, while the beacon led is aprox at the 1-2 o'clock position, the strobe will become variable, i.e. fast, slow, randomizing, inverted duty cycle. I even had the blue and green LEDs come on simultaneously. Very strange. Additionally, when on the Turbo detent, sometimes the orientation of the light will induce random flickering. Move it left of the detent and that stops. And finally, at it's lowest setting, I can get the light to dim/go off by moving the light around in the same fashion.



Whoa. Seriously weird. I think your's might be defective, I've been using mine nightly on "canine exercise and sanitation duty" since I got it, fumbling around with it along with a leash, dropping it occasionally (finally installed the #$%^&* lanyard yesterday), and I've never had mine change modes except when I mean to. Sounds like something's loose in yours, friend.


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## selfbuilt

Gryffin said:


> Yeah, I forgot to mention that, it was a minor disappointment for me, too. Seems it was designed for you to use the clip, OR the grip ring, but not both. I can't even get the clip to stay on if the grip ring is installed, and even with the grip ring off, the clip is pretty scrawny for this size of light.


Likewise, there is no play on my sample with the grip ring when the tailcap is fully tightened down (i.e., it is held firm). For those who may not be used to these sorts of rings, please note that you have to remove the tail o-ring first to mount the grip ring (and then replace the o-ring after it is on). Don't try to force the grip ring over the o-ring, it's not a good idea. And as always, be careful when remvoing the o-ring to not damage it.

I actually find this grip ring design to work well on my sample. But I do agree it can interfere with properly seating the clip, if you wanted to have both on concurrently.


----------



## Gryffin

I discovered a "stupid SRT trick" I can do with the SRT7: with the tailcap switch off, switch to Beacon. Now, every time you do a half-press, you get the equivalent of a camera flash. Even though the beacon normally is on a 2-second cycle, in momentary it *doesn't* take 2 seconds to "reset." Useful? Dunno. Kinda fun for freezing motion at night? Kinda. 

Also forgot to mention that I got the NiteCore 40mm diffuser with mine. Without a diffuser, the SRT7 is a little too throwy for indoor use, the tight hotspot makes you feel you're looking around the room through a toilet paper tube. 

The NiteCore diffuser is big and rubbery, and fits very snuggly, but it diffuses *too* well: you get a very even wall of light with no noticeable hotspot at all. I was hoping for just a broader, softer beam that still had a *little* throw, mostly for indoor use.

Selfbuilt mentioned the Olight M22 diffuser fits; I found another YouTube review that confirmed that, and showed comparative beamshots for both. The M22 diffuser looks more like what I was going for, and it's more compact, too. Just ordered one, should be here Thursday, I'll report back then.


----------



## selfbuilt

Gryffin said:


> Also forgot to mention that I got the NiteCore 40mm diffuser with mine. ... The NiteCore diffuser is big and rubbery, and fits very snuggly, but it diffuses *too* well: you get a very even wall of light with no noticeable hotspot at all. I was hoping for just a broader, softer beam that still had a *little* throw, mostly for indoor use.
> Selfbuilt mentioned the Olight M22 diffuser fits; I found another YouTube review that confirmed that, and showed comparative beamshots for both. The M22 diffuser looks more like what I was going for, and it's more compact, too. Just ordered one, should be here Thursday, I'll report back then.


Yes, I agree with both sentiments - the Nitecore NFD40 is big and bullky, and provides an extreme amount of diffusion. The Olight M21X/M22 diffuser fits more snuggly, and provides a somewhat milder diffusion (similar to the Eagletac diffuser covers). I personally prefer the Olight/Eagletac level of diffusion.

Another option to consider is that discussed in my Nitecore EA4 thread (which shares the same 40mm opening) - the Butler Creek scope cover #5 (for 1.60 to 1.69 inch diameters). This makes an excellent flip-top diffuser option, with the bonus that you can use whatever film you want, for a custom level of diffusion. 

One comment though - while the #5 cover is the only one that fits, I find there is a little more wiggle-room on the SRT7 than there was on the EA4. So you may want to put a bit of electrical tape on the inside of the cover, to help with firm fit.


----------



## Gryffin

Got the M22 diffuser. *Much* more useful beam pattern for indoors use, just ad I'd hoped. It's also much slimmer, and while flexible, it's a harder sort of rubber, not as "grabby" as the much larger Nitecore diffuser. Think I'm gonna belay it to the light with the included lanyard slot.

One bit of weirdness: if I push it on all the way, the bezel stretches the rubber housing to the point that, when I pull the diffuser off, the diffuser lens falls out. Not fun. The lens is held in place by six raised bosses; if I just push the diffuser on until the light's bezel hits those bosses, but doesn't stretch them, the lens stays in place... but the diffuser then sits about 1/4" further forward, making the overall light somewhat longer. It still fits into the sheath that way, so I'm not gonna worry about it too much.



selfbuilt said:


> Another option to consider … the Butler Creek scope cover #5 (for 1.60 to 1.69 inch diameters). This makes an excellent flip-top diffuser option, with the bonus that you can use whatever film you want, for a custom level of diffusion.



Yeah, I saw that, and have been giving it some serious thought; someone else on the thread mentioned Weaver's covers, too. In fact, I'm gonna try to sit down this weekend with some of my favorite lights and a caliper, and see if I can figure out which three or four scope cover sizes might be handy to have.


----------



## selfbuilt

Gryffin said:


> One bit of weirdness: if I push it on all the way, the bezel stretches the rubber housing to the point that, when I pull the diffuser off, the diffuser lens falls out. Not fun. The lens is held in place by six raised bosses; if I just push the diffuser on until the light's bezel hits those bosses, but doesn't stretch them, the lens stays in place... but the diffuser then sits about 1/4" further forward, making the overall light somewhat longer. It still fits into the sheath that way, so I'm not gonna worry about it too much.


Yes, that can happen with these kind of diffuser covers - although I find the Nitecore one is far more likely to have this problem (given just two large "bosses" hold the lens in place). For the M22, I recommend just prying it off slighly, from side-to-side (instead of a direct pull).


----------



## evolution80

great review!

i ordered the srt7 along with a sunwayman t21cs after reading this review! - and registered on cpf - this is my first post actually

i bought my last three flashlights in 2005/2006 nightops gladius, surefire L5, surefire e2d led defender - :duh2:


never thought so many new makers would come up with so many great innovations  - thinking about a tiny monster or something similar now...

my new lights should arrive today - i cant wait to compare them to the old ones i got and see how flashlights evolved in the last years!


----------



## selfbuilt

evolution80 said:


> i ordered the srt7 along with a sunwayman t21cs after reading this review! - and registered on cpf - this is my first post actually


:welcome:

I saw your post in my T21CS thread as well ... and I agree, SWM seems to be experimenting with a lot of different user interfaces these days. Personally, I _much_ prefer the SRT7 and D40A interfaces over the T21CS.


----------



## evolution80

ok - i got both lights today - i will return the T21CS for another SRT7 or SRT6!!!

btw the light is AWESOME! i just compared the output to my older SF and nightops models


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## ash9nine

Thanks for the review. I just placed an order for one.


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## InquisitiveInquirer

In-depth review as usual! Thanks for taking the time, selfbuilt.

I was wondering how many lumens each of the red, green and blue modes have?

Do you plan on review any of the others in the series? SRT3 maybe or SRT5?


----------



## Valmet62

How many mA is the LED being pushed to get to 960 lumens ? 

Valmet62


----------



## Tatanka88

Hi guys!
Could someone do a photo comparison between the beams of SRT7 and the new TD15X with XM-L2? 
Can't decide between them, looking for the one which is closer to a thrower with more narrow beam!


----------



## selfbuilt

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> I was wondering how many lumens each of the red, green and blue modes have?


That's an interesting question. My lightbox calibration is based on white LEDs, so I don't know if the relationship holds consistently for the specific colors. But using my standard calibration, I get the following:

Lowest white level: 1.3 lumens
Red: 3.3 lumens
Green: 12 lumens
Blue: 6.1 lumens

I've just experimented with the light in a dark closet, and I would say these lightbox readings approximate what I see by eye. But again, take them with a big grain of salt, as I don't know if I can trust the relative calibration for specific colors.



> Do you plan on review any of the others in the series? SRT3 maybe or SRT5?


Don't know yet. I typically leave it up to manufacturers to suggest lights, and I respond based on my availability at the time.



Valmet62 said:


> How many mA is the LED being pushed to get to 960 lumens ?


To determine that, you would have to measure current directly at the LED, which I have not done. Tailcap current draws would be misleading, since I know from experience my DMM introduces enough resistance at high drive levels to affect current and output.


----------



## WadeF

Got a SRT7. I love it, but wish there was a bit more range in the low. It's certainly over 1 lumen. Kind of wish there was 1 more click on the selector ring for an ultra-low/moon mode. Can't have it all I guess.  Also wish the max output was available with a 18650 and didn't require 2 cells.


----------



## Fulaeetoy

Planning to get a diffuser cone on this one. Don't know which one to get aside from NDF40. My cigar grip ring used to be tight but now it's pretty loose. Overall the light is great.


----------



## selfbuilt

WadeF said:


> Got a SRT7. I love it, but wish there was a bit more range in the low. It's certainly over 1 lumen. Kind of wish there was 1 more click on the selector ring for an ultra-low/moon mode. Can't have it all I guess.  Also wish the max output was available with a 18650 and didn't require 2 cells.


Hi Wade, it's been awhile - hope all is well. :wave:

I agree that a separate position for a true moonlight mode would have been great (e.g. as seen on my recent X40 review). But I guess that might have been tough to squeeze in with all the other modes.

As for the output, I'm personally fine with the slight drop on 1x18650 ... you can't really notice it in practice, and it does help extend the runtime.



Fulaeetoy said:


> Planning to get a diffuser cone on this one. Don't know which one to get aside from NDF40. My cigar grip ring used to be tight but now it's pretty loose. Overall the light is great.


As I mentioned in the review, I find the Olight M22 diffuser to be a better fit. They are available online for <$10. 

But another option, if you want a flip-top style cover, is the Butler Creek Blizzard Scope Cover, size 5 (1.60-1.69" 40.84-42.92mm). It can be converted into a flip-top diffuser, as described in this post of my EA4 review. Also available for ~$10. One thing is that you may want to add a layer of electrical tape to the inside of this particular cover, to enhance the tightness of fit on the SRT7.


----------



## Fulaeetoy

selfbuilt said:


> Hi Wade, it's been awhile - hope all is well. :wave:
> 
> I agree that a separate position for a true moonlight mode would have been great (e.g. as seen on my recent X40 review). But I guess that might have been tough to squeeze in with all the other modes.
> 
> As for the output, I'm personally fine with the slight drop on 1x18650 ... you can't really notice it in practice, and it does help extend the runtime.
> 
> 
> As I mentioned in the review, I find the Olight M22 diffuser to be a better fit. They are available online for <$10.
> 
> But another option, if you want a flip-top style cover, is the Butler Creek Blizzard Scope Cover, size 5 (1.60-1.69" 40.84-42.92mm). It can be converted into a flip-top diffuser, as described in this post of my EA4 review. Also available for ~$10. One thing is that you may want to add a layer of electrical tape to the inside of this particular cover, to enhance the tightness of fit on the SRT7.



I meant a diffuser cone for tailstand mode. I much prefer xeno's diffuser but they don't have for 40mm heads. I think NDF40 is the only option for now.


_______________________________________________
••• Sent from GT-P6800 using Tapatlak HD •••


----------



## selfbuilt

Fulaeetoy said:


> I meant a diffuser cone for tailstand mode. I much prefer xeno's diffuser but they don't have for 40mm heads. I think NDF40 is the only option for now.


Ah, sorry. Nitecore didn't do itself any favours when it called the cone the NDF40 and the diffuser the NFD40. 

Something like this might fit and work well, but I don't know off-hand of a Xeno-style diffuser for 40mm, sorry.


----------



## lancerobbins24

I believe it was touched on, but want to clarify. The forward clicky does have momentary on if you don't engage the click all the way?  I've been looking at the SRT3 and would imagine all the functions translate down to the smaller model? Thanks for the awesome reviews you do...incredibly informative!


----------



## bokeh

lancerobbins24 said:


> I believe it was touched on, but want to clarify. The forward clicky does have momentary on if you don't engage the click all the way? I've been looking at the SRT3 and would imagine all the functions translate down to the smaller model? Thanks for the awesome reviews you do...incredibly informative!



Both SRT7 and SRT3 will give momentary light for any selected mode. (So on the SRT7 you could use momentary standby )


----------



## Average Joe

evolution80 said:


> ok - i got both lights today - i will return the T21CS for another SRT7 or SRT6!!!
> 
> btw the light is AWESOME! i just compared the output to my older SF and nightops models



Get the *SRT6* (or 5). I got the grey version of the SRT6 and it's terrific. I took an immediate liking to it the moment I turned it on.
If things go well for me I might get the 5 as well. It's slimmer and should be a bit more floody (for indoor use)


----------



## Fulaeetoy

selfbuilt said:


> Ah, sorry. Nitecore didn't do itself any favours when it called the cone the NDF40 and the diffuser the NFD40.
> 
> Something like this might fit and work well, but I don't know off-hand of a Xeno-style diffuser for 40mm, sorry.



Never heard of that site before. I hope it's a good diffuser. Thanks!


_______________________________________________
••• Sent from GT-P6800 using Tapatlak HD •••


----------



## lancerobbins24

bokeh said:


> Both SRT7 and SRT3 will give momentary light for any selected mode. (So on the SRT7 you could use momentary standby )



Thanks Bokeh...I've been thinking about picking up a pair of SRT3's. One for EDC and one for mounting on an AR-15. The momentary on is ideal for clearing rooms in a tactical setup on a rifle.


----------



## rickypanecatyl

I played with one for a while today at a "flashlight store"... compare it to about 20 other lights.

I really liked the feel of the magnetic control ring on the variable output... I just didn't like that that really cool section of control ring was sandwiched between the "mall cop wanna be" strobe mode and the colored modes.
We spent a while seeing how low it could go... comparing it to the Army tech predator's 3 firefly modes etc. My thought was yes it can do .1 lumen BUT that was holding the control ring with 2 hands and trying our darndest to not let it jump up to the lowest mode it felt comfortable resting in which was about 1-2 lumens. 

I really liked the beam and though it would make the perfect "XL EDC" light for me if:

1.) It really went down to .1 lumen comfortably.
2.) It didn't have the colored LED's or strobe and the control ring was just an uber simple all the way left is lowest low and all the way right was highest high with no counting or memorizing.
3.) To make it super duper uber cool... put some some THUMB size notches in the control ring, shrink it and move it to the very back of the light!


----------



## rickypanecatyl

I just checked out the SRT6 as it doesn't have the colored modes which I don't need but has this same control ring that I love!

I was so frustrated looking at the specs on that light... I know I must be in the minority in my UI desires otherwise manufactures wouldn't make their UI's the way they do but I do wonder why? Why do people want a simple, logical, intuitive control ring sandwiched between SOS and other funky modes on one end and strobe on the other end? 
When setting up a control ring light to turn on in the dark, TO ME, the positions of all the way left and all the way right are the easy/most reliable to access. Who needs SOS as the easiest mode to access?


----------



## NorthernStar

Selfbuilt:
I saw in the charts that when you run the SRT7 at Hi on 2xAW protected RCR it took 26 min to 50% output. Did your batteries continously keep on running after that? I tried the very same sort of batteries in my SRT7(2xAW protected RCR batteries) and after 31 minutes the light just stoped running. I guess it was the protection circuitry that stoped the battery,but it was without any visible decrease in effect. Did the protection circuitry kicked in when testing your light with these batteries?


----------



## selfbuilt

NorthernStar;4253006I saw in the charts that when you run the SRT7 at Hi on 2xAW protected RCR it took 26 min to 50% output. Did your batteries continously keep on running after that? I tried the very same sort of batteries in my SRT7(2xAW protected RCR batteries) and after 31 minutes the light just stoped running. [/QUOTE said:


> That's right, that's how most multi-power lights handle 2xRCR (i.e., you get full regulated power until one of the protection circuits trip). So in this sense, "time to 50%" is the same as "time to 0%" (or "time to 10%", etc.) - the light abruptly shuts off without warning. It is a limitation of 2xRCR in these lights.


----------



## bokeh

rickypanecatyl said:


> I just checked out the SRT6 as it doesn't have the colored modes which I don't need but has this same control ring that I love!
> 
> I was so frustrated looking at the specs on that light... I know I must be in the minority in my UI desires otherwise manufactures wouldn't make their UI's the way they do but I do wonder why? Why do people want a simple, logical, intuitive control ring sandwiched between SOS and other funky modes on one end and strobe on the other end?
> When setting up a control ring light to turn on in the dark, TO ME, the positions of all the way left and all the way right are the easy/most reliable to access. Who needs SOS as the easiest mode to access?



This has been discussed for the SRT3 recently as well.

My conclusion: *if* you want strobe modes available, they are arranged perfectly. The standard strobe as a panic feature must be available without thinking. If bundled with the other strobe modes, it's too easy to get wrong. And it must be on the high end, because you don't want to go temporarily over low when in a panic situation. You want more attention or more brightness.

I use my SRT3 and SRT7 daily now, and I don't get into strobe by accident. Most of the time, you use the light in the variable range, or you have it in low or standby mode. The clicks give enough feedback for me to always know what will happen if I turn the ring. Don't make it an issue before it proves to be one.  

I totally agree that there could be more lights with that simple ring. So much easier than all the push button UIs, where you never know what mode you're in, are limited to some ranges, and must cycle through all higher modes to get to a lower one. Also never have a good feeling when loosening (unscrewing) head just to use it regularly.


----------



## WilsonCQB1911

I second bokeh. I really like the UI and the mode layout.


----------



## NorthernStar

selfbuilt said:


> That's right, that's how most multi-power lights handle 2xRCR (i.e., you get full regulated power until one of the protection circuits trip). So in this sense, "time to 50%" is the same as "time to 0%" (or "time to 10%", etc.) - the light abruptly shuts off without warning. It is a limitation of 2xRCR in these lights.



Thank´s for clarifying this. Well then my RCR batteries behaves normal and 31 minutes at highest mode which i had is what one can expect from this power source.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

Just curious if anyone has done a runtime tests on the 3 coloured modes? Though i cannot imagine using these modes for too long a period, i reckon it'd be useful to know how much their runtimes are to better gauge, if outdoors, how much juice you've left in the battery when you don't have any measuring instruments.


----------



## pppppp

I have the srt3... Not sure how similar they are, but mine feels like a tank, compared to my previous rrt-01


----------



## pppppp

This is a flawless layout... Emergency strobe @ the high end, and safety (beacon & sos) @ the other... Perfect...


----------



## pppppp

If it's anything like my srt3, they use very little juice... Specialty modes, with very low lumens...


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

pppppp said:


> This is a flawless layout... Emergency strobe @ the high end, and safety (beacon & sos) @ the other... Perfect...


SRT3 has SOS? That's neat. My SRT7 only has beacon, police mode and strobe in addition to regular light & RGB colours.


----------



## mudcamper

Jared said:


> Also, I have gotten some glitches out of it, but only at the ends of the ramping sequence and oddly enough_ depending on the physical orientation of the light i.e. relative to gravity._ When the light is switched between the Turbo and Strobe detent, while the beacon led is aprox at the 1-2 o'clock position, the strobe will become variable, i.e. fast, slow, randomizing, inverted duty cycle. I even had the blue and green LEDs come on simultaneously. Very strange. Additionally, when on the Turbo detent, sometimes the orientation of the light will induce random flickering. Move it left of the detent and that stops. And finally, at it's lowest setting, I can get the light to dim/go off by moving the light around in the same fashion.



I have similar glitches. First time I turned it on, in the brightest setting detent, the light flickered just a little bit. I could wiggle the ring within the detent and it stops. (The detents are quite loose. I can rotate the ring about 1/16th of an inch inside a detent. I also have the SRT3 and it does not do this - it is very tight by comparison.) 

Then, seemingly randomly at first, it would sometimes flicker in the brightest detent, but not always. Eventually I figured out that it was dependent on the orientation of the light. I took some video to demonstrate. I just rotate the light and it starts to engage the strobe. I'll try and post that here tomorrow.

For me, this is enough of a problem that I will try and return the light for an exchange. The mode that I plan to use the most is currently unreliable.


----------



## jonwkng

Hi, mudcamper. Think there might be something wrong with your SRT7. The detents on mine are crisp and have almost no play at each stop. Should be like your SRT3 as you've mentioned. I've had no glitches on mine so far.


----------



## mudcamper

mudcamper said:


> Eventually I figured out that it was dependent on the orientation of the light. I took some video to demonstrate. I just rotate the light and it starts to engage the strobe. I'll try and post that here tomorrow.



Here is a short video clip of the odd behavior. Sorry for the poor video quality and lighting.


----------



## markito

Is it locked at turbo mode? What battery do you use?


----------



## mudcamper

markito said:


> Is it locked at turbo mode? What battery do you use?



Yes. It's in the turbo detent, which is just before the strobe mode. It's as though the detents are slightly out of alignment with the control ring, bringing the ring just a bit too close to the strobe mode. It won't happen if I take up the slack in the detent, rotating it away from the strobe direction. Problem is, when using it outside, I kept accidentally putting it into this pseudo-strobe mode, and would have to turn the ring back just a bit. Yeah, it's not a major problem, but it's an annoyance, particularly with a brand new light.

I bought it from eliteflashlights.com, and Jerry there has already set aside a new one for me and will warranty the one I have. He even opened a bunch up and tested them to be sure I'd have no more trouble. :thumbsup:

The battery is a Nitecore branded protected 18650, with a full charge.


----------



## nickso

I have the SRT5 and SRT7 and love them both. Thinking about getting the SRT3 as well.
Would love to have the SRT5 in Ti !!


----------



## mudcamper

Got my replacement SRT7. Control ring works fine. The problem with the other one was as I suspected. The detents were rotated just a little too far to one side in relation to the control ring "under" them. That's the best way I can describe it. 

As for the weird gravity behavior, I bet I can replicate that just by turning the ring just a bit past Turbo, in-between Turbo and Strobe, just to where strobe is about to engage, and then rotate the whole light. I was getting it in the Turbo detent just because the detent was manufactured or assembled in the wrong location.


----------



## EngrPaul

I just received mine and think it's a fantastically well thought out torch.

It's worth highlighting that this standby indicator works as a subtle "find me" beacon for locating the light in complete darkness. The mode twisting to the right starts at (white) low, to the left you get red. I find this perfect because either mode is what you would want to select coming from a pitch dark situation.

I also appreciate how the cigar grip and pocket clip can be used together. The cigar grip is plastic - the pocket clip fits in any scallop, and nicely covers the gate vestige from molding if you choose that particular side. I keep the pocket clip turned to the red LED indicator. The anti-roll of the cigar grip is very effective, and because it is plastic it does not dink or scratch the tabletop.

It would be cool if the indicator would flash the voltage when first turned on with the tail switch. Oh well, you can't have EVERYTHING. 



selfbuilt said:


> I measured the current at this standby level as 430uA on a 1x18650 (although it periodically jumps to just under 4mA every few secs when the standby indicator lights up).


----------



## whatswrongwithmee

Just got mine and wow, this strobe is crazy!


----------



## blerkoid

Hello CPF!

Awesome review Selfbuilt!

I have a concern, though - my strobe kind of sucks. Tested with multiple people and everyone can just walk straight at the strobe with no issues at all. It is far less bright than the 960 lumens. All of the color modes are extremely dim, too.

Is it possible that mine is different than the ones you guys have purchased? I would like to exchange my product if this is the case. I only have 2 more days to return it, so please let me know 
I purchased it from jetbeamcanada.com

Thanks


----------



## nickso

My strobe seems fine, but less than the max lm. I think this might be typical of many of the strobes. I might be wrong.


----------



## blerkoid

nickso said:


> My strobe seems fine, but less than the max lm. I think this might be typical of many of the strobes. I might be wrong.



It's possible, but a lot of the lights I looked at had a strobe that was on par with the max output. I would say my strobe is around 400-500lumens. I can't find anywhere on the Nitecore site or any review that specifically says how many lumens the strobe is. Or I completely missed it. Does anyone happen to know how many lumens the strobe is?

Thanks!


----------



## selfbuilt

nickso said:


> My strobe seems fine, but less than the max lm. I think this might be typical of many of the strobes. I might be wrong.


It's a good point - the strobe on the SRT-series lights seem to be running at something less than max output. I can't really quantify this though, as I don't have an output measuring device that samples at greater than the strobe frequency (i.e., the oscilloscope can't be used to measure output).

That said, my subjective impression is that most lights do in fact run their strobes at max output - the SRT-series is thus in the minority. Note that it may not always seem that way - really fast strobes (i.e., >~15 Hz) tend to look less bright by eye than slower ones. This is an area where subjective experience can be highly variable.

I also agree that the color modes are not very bright (and so, the flashing color modes are not very useful).


----------



## MrFunk

Hi, 
Can u please tell me if in this flashlight there's the possibility to check fake documents like passports or fake money, maybe with green or blue led? 
Thanks in advance


----------



## Best Flashlight

I just purchases one of these for my collection. I did notice a slight lag in response time when I first started turning the ring. I got about 1/2 way before it kicked in and started working. Not sure if that is because I was clicking and turning really fast and the chip could not respond quick enough or if I got a lemon. Any thoughts?


----------



## JetskiMark

MrFunk said:


> Hi,
> Can u please tell me if in this flashlight there's the possibility to check fake documents like passports or fake money, maybe with green or blue led?
> Thanks in advance



Ideally, you should use a 365nm UV light for that. Do not bother with a cheaper 395nm UV light. I have both and the 365nm really fluoresces the strip in currency and the hidden UV printing in credit cards and driver's licenses quite well.


It would be really nice if the SRT series had 365nm LEDs incorporated in them.


----------



## selfbuilt

MrFunk said:


> Can u please tell me if in this flashlight there's the possibility to check fake documents like passports or fake money, maybe with green or blue led?


I agree with JetskiMark - I don't think you'll find the SRT-series blue LED very useful for that task.


----------



## Noxinal

Thanks selfbuilt. Good review. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on one.


----------



## xo1tech

First off I want to say thanks selfbuilt for the great review of the SRT-7. 
 
I agree it would be neat if they had a fully active temp circuit. My guess is that the rise in output we saw when you put the fan on it might just be a drop in the internal resistance of the battery and the circuitry as the light cooled. Let us know if you can confirm that. 
 
 With my Smart Ring in the off position, the blue led’s illuminate for approx. 250-300 ms every time I turn the tailcap switch on (only visible in total darkness). Would that be considered normal? One time out of approx. 25 cycles the red and blue came on together.
 
I tried entering the off detent position (on the smart ring) from both sides (left and right) thinking maybe the smart ring calibration was off slightly, but I would really expect the red leds or lowest output white to be coming on if it was a calibration issue. The blue leds come on for such a short duration and at such a low level it really is not an issue for me, as long as it does not indicate some kind of problem to come later.
 
Could you put yourself in the total darkness and see if your blue leds do the same? As I said earlier it happens for a very short period of time and at a very low output but it is very consistent with mine. 
 
THANKS for your time and keep up the great reviews!


----------



## selfbuilt

xo1tech said:


> I agree it would be neat if they had a fully active temp circuit. My guess is that the rise in output we saw when you put the fan on it might just be a drop in the internal resistance of the battery and the circuitry as the light cooled. Let us know if you can confirm that.


That's a likely supposition. It's certainly a common enough phenomenon, but I don't see any way that I can investigate it further.



> With my Smart Ring in the off position, the blue led’s illuminate for approx. 250-300 ms every time I turn the tailcap switch on (only visible in total darkness). Would that be considered normal? One time out of approx. 25 cycles the red and blue came on together.


I just checked, and mine does occassionally do a very brief flash of the colored LEDs when in activated in standby mode. I only saw it about every fifth click or so. Sometimes it was just red, some times it was tri-colored (i.e., red, green, and blue flashed in each LED). On that basis, I would think this is normal enough (or at least, common). It's probably some residual current in the circuit when the switch is pressed - much like the pre-flash you see on some current-controlled lights.


----------



## xo1tech

selfbuilt said:


> It's probably some residual current in the circuit when the switch is pressed - much like the pre-flash you see on some current-controlled lights.


 Thanks for the prompt reply selfbuilt. This is my first current controlled light so I have a lot to learn about them and appreciate all the help I can get.

I have to say I am very impressed with the SRT-7. I was concerned that it might be too big to EDC in my pocket head-up (no clip), but as it turned out it's actually a little smaller than I thought it would be. 

Thanks again!


----------



## EKinOR

Does anyone know if it's possible to mod this light to a 2x18650 configuration to get longer run times?


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

You would need to have an extension tube made, but there is not reason why not. It does run just fine off of two 16340's.


----------



## TSD

Selfbuilt, what reasons if any would you have for choosing a sunwayman v20c over the SRT7 (actually the SRT6 as I like prefer it's beam and lack of colored lights)? I am going to pick up a magnetic control ring light and I am between the V20C and SRT6. I know you are fond of the V20C and briefly mentioned that it is different from the SRT7 (and probably less so from the SRT6) in earlier posts, but I am only really noticing differences in size and tint. Otherwise, it seems like the SRT6 is sort of like an update to the V20C.


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

The V20C has a lower overall output, a more floody beam profile, and it has a lower low.

Tried both the srt6, and srt7. The SRT6 is definitely more ergonomic, because of the smaller head, but aside from that the SRT7 wins out... more throw, and yes the colored LED's which are mostly useless, but kind of fun.


----------



## TSD

Do you notice differences in the feel/function of the control ring between the V20C and SRT6? From what I was able to gather from selfbuilt's review the control rings seem fairly similar. I have been searching for beamshot images and youtube videos, but I would prefer to hear from folks who have first hand experience. How big a difference (in meters perhaps) is there between the effective throw range (I realize this is subjective) of these lights? I know the lux ratings, but I am wondering what you feel the useful/effective throw ranges are in field use. Lastly, the NW tint of the V20C looked quite nice to my eyes from the videos I watched, while the SRT6/7 looked a bit bluish white (not bad, but not as nice). Would you agree, or do you find the SRTs to be more white than bluish white? Thanks.


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

I don't have a V20C, so can't say what the difference with the ring would be. I expect they would be about the same. Aside from those on BlackShadow padme and darth all control rings I tried so far have been very smooth.

The tint of the SRTs is supposed be neutral white, but it's really on the border. I think a true NW tint would be nicer. I wouldn't say it's bluish, but it is certainly white.

There is no question that the V20C gets killed, on both lumens and throw. For close up work, that's actually better in my experience, to have a floody beam. If your goal is to light something up 5-30 feet away the V20C should work great. If you want more range I'd suggest one of the SRTs.


----------



## TSD

Thanks. I have to say I am surprised at your optimal/useful lighting estimate for the V20C (though again I realize this is subjective). I would have guessed that it could light things up relatively clearly to 30 meters no problem. For the Nitecore SRT6/7, I was guessing they could do 50 meters well, and probably stretch out to 75-100 meters with decent visibility.


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

For 30 meters, I think it would do quite well. Not far past that though. That's not to say you won't be able to see further, probably even out to ~100meters, but not as clearly.

The SRT7 is an excellent small thrower... it lights things up 100 meters away easily, but at the cost of having a bright hotspot up close. Of course turned down to a low setting it's still very useful flose up.

What light you get really depends on what you plan to do with it. Personally for actual use, I haven't found anything better than a Zebralight SC600II. I have the xml2 version on order already. It's not much of a thrower, but very practical up close, and insane run times on low.


----------



## TSD

That seems more like what I expected for throw. I am intrigued by the selector ring UI, and am strongly leaning towards that right now. The SRT6 and V20C seem like the most appealing options in that category to me, so I am curious of their differences. My use will be strictly outdoor, and will include walking through fields and woods on trails, and being paired with a headlamp in camping applications to give me a bit more throw when needed. I do not think I have much need for throw over 100 meters, but at least 50 meters is preferred. I am also considering the PD35 and Zebralight SC600II, but I have a few fenix lights and I prefer to try a different UI as I am not in love with multiple button pushing to cycle through modes, or low levels over 1 lumen. The Zebralight looks great, and I prefer the UI to fenix, but the selector ring system seems like it could be better/more versatile to me.


----------



## TSD

How far does the SC600II beam reasonably illuminate objects on the 500 lumen H2 setting? I am curious how it would compare to the 550 lumen (upgraded to L2) high of the V20C. Anyone have these two? IE, would you choose the SRT7 over the SC600II for any other situation beside one where longer throw is needed?


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

Not sure how the V20C would compete against the SC600II. I expect they would be about the same, maybe a bit floodier for the SC600II, so slightly shorter range. Both have shallow orange peel reflectors.

Yes, I'd pick the SRT7 also for ease of use. 

Tailcap to turn on, ring to change output. That's it, there is no learning curve. So if someone else might need to use the light, I would seriously consider taking along instead of another light.

Personally I love the UI on the zebralights, because assuming you put in a fresh battery, you can know how much time you have left. This is not the case with infinitely variable lights.

For everyday use, like to look under the hood, in a dark closet, dog walking, I think the SC600II is the better choice. It's also so small that you're likely to actually have it on you.

Outdoors, where you might want to light something up that's farther away, the SRT7 is the clear winner, but that does come at the price of being much larger.

Edit: Personally I've gone to a bit of an extreme and carry two lights. A zebralight SC602W for close up stuff... it's ALL flood, and a modded, dedomed eagletac tx25c2 for more range.


----------



## TSD

Thanks for the input IE. The SC600II definitely seems to be a great light, loved by nearly all who own it. Does anyone own a V20C and a SRT6/7 that would like to give their take on them? I've read selfbuilt's reviews and a few brief comments from folks who own both in this thread and others, but most people seem to like both. Has anyone found that the their V20C has largely been replaced by their SRT6/7? Also, does the 110 degrees of selector range of the SRT feel like it gives you more selectability compared to the 90 degrees of the V20C?

Edit: I think I'll post further questions in "Recommend Me A Light."


----------



## selfbuilt

Haven't handled the SRT6, but I would think the comments above are reasonable for the difference to the V20C. Most people would probably consider the SRT6 to have replaced the V20C, due to the higher highs. But if lower lows matter more to you (and a floodier beam), the V20C is still quite a nice light.


----------



## TSD

Thanks for the input everyone. I got a good deal on a V20C so I went with that, but in the spirit of CPF, I'm thinking I might get both and sell or trade whichever one I find myself using the least.


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

InfinitusEquitas said:


> Not sure how the V20C would compete against the SC600II. I expect they would be about the same, maybe a bit floodier for the SC600II, so slightly shorter range. Both have shallow orange peel reflectors.
> 
> Yes, I'd pick the SRT7 also for ease of use.
> 
> Tailcap to turn on, ring to change output. That's it, there is no learning curve. So if someone else might need to use the light, I would seriously consider taking along instead of another light.
> 
> Personally I love the UI on the zebralights, because assuming you put in a fresh battery, you can know how much time you have left. This is not the case with infinitely variable lights.
> 
> For everyday use, like to look under the hood, in a dark closet, dog walking, I think the SC600II is the better choice. It's also so small that you're likely to actually have it on you.
> 
> Outdoors, where you might want to light something up that's farther away, the SRT7 is the clear winner, but that does come at the price of being much larger.
> 
> Edit: Personally I've gone to a bit of an extreme and carry two lights. A *zebralight SC602W *for close up stuff... it's ALL flood, and a modded, dedomed eagletac tx25c2 for more range.



what light are you talking about? The H602W? There is no SC602W although I REALLY wish they'd make a forward version of the H600 AND H602.


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

Yup, H602W.


----------



## Gryffin

TSD said:


> Does anyone own a V20C and a SRT6/7 that would like to give their take on them? I've read selfbuilt's reviews and a few brief comments from folks who own both in this thread and others, but most people seem to like both. Has anyone found that the their V20C has largely been replaced by their SRT6/7? Also, does the 110 degrees of selector range of the SRT feel like it gives you more selectability compared to the 90 degrees of the V20C?



I own both, I use both regularly. Despite similar UIs, I feel they're rather different lights.

*Complexity:* The SRT7 has a lot more functions than the V20C: three color LED modes, flashing "police strobe," tactical strobe. If you need those features, the SRT is the obviously better choice. But there are advantages to the V20C's simpler UI; it's never going to come on in some "disco mode," and the variable brightness is so simple that anybody can use it.

*Performance:* Yes, the SRT7 is a lot brighter, and throws a ton further. But as was already pointed out, a floodier beam is more useful when working close up. (To that end, I keep an Olight M22 diffuser on my SRT7, which makes it much more useful indoors.) But performance comes with a cost: the V20C will run a lot longer on max output than will the SRT7.

*Size:* There's no getting around it, the SRT7 is a big honkin' light. Right now mine's sitting next to a Thrunite Scorpion v2 and an Eagletac G25C2, and they're all pretty comparable in size; the relatively narrow bezel of the Scorpion actually makes it the only one I consider pocketable. The V20C, on the other hand, is remarkably compact in comparison; it's dimensions are just about the same as the Dereelight CL1H and Surefire C2, which are compact D26-dropin-based lights. Heck, it's hardly bigger than the JETBeam RRT-0, which is a *1xAA* light. So if portability is important to you, the V20C has the edge.


----------



## oKtosiTe

I have previously expressed interest in the EagleTac GC25C2 MkII, mainly for its flip-up diffuser. Are you (or anyone else) aware of a similar diffuser for the 40mm lights like this one, the M22, or the Viking Pro 2.5?


----------



## TSD

Gryffin said:


> I own both, I use both regularly. Despite similar UIs, I feel they're rather different lights.
> 
> *Complexity:* The SRT7 has a lot more functions than the V20C: three color LED modes, flashing "police strobe," tactical strobe. If you need those features, the SRT is the obviously better choice. But there are advantages to the V20C's simpler UI; it's never going to come on in some "disco mode," and the variable brightness is so simple that anybody can use it.
> 
> *Performance:* Yes, the SRT7 is a lot brighter, and throws a ton further. But as was already pointed out, a floodier beam is more useful when working close up. (To that end, I keep an Olight M22 diffuser on my SRT7, which makes it much more useful indoors.) But performance comes with a cost: the V20C will run a lot longer on max output than will the SRT7.
> 
> *Size:* There's no getting around it, the SRT7 is a big honkin' light. Right now mine's sitting next to a Thrunite Scorpion v2 and an Eagletac G25C2, and they're all pretty comparable in size; the relatively narrow bezel of the Scorpion actually makes it the only one I consider pocketable. The V20C, on the other hand, is remarkably compact in comparison; it's dimensions are just about the same as the Dereelight CL1H and Surefire C2, which are compact D26-dropin-based lights. Heck, it's hardly bigger than the JETBeam RRT-0, which is a *1xAA* light. So if portability is important to you, the V20C has the edge.



Thanks for the follow up. I ended up buying a SRT6 (due to simpler UI and smaller size compared to SRT7) shortly after purchasing my V20C. I have only used both lights a few times so far, but I do like both of them for different reasons. I thought the Nitecore SRT6 would be more or less an update/replacement to my V20C, but I am not so sure that is the case. For me, the three biggest differences are the size, tint, and output, probably in that order. I find the beam to be reasonably similar between the two, although the spot to flood transition is smoother in the V20C. I started a thread titled Sunwayman V20C or Nitecore SRT6 (or other) that no one replied to, so I think I will post my comparison there after I have used each light a bit more. These are both great lights, but I am hoping to choose one, sell the other, and buy another light.


----------



## selfbuilt

oKtosiTe said:


> I have previously expressed interest in the EagleTac GC25C2 MkII, mainly for its flip-up diffuser. Are you (or anyone else) aware of a similar diffuser for the 40mm lights like this one, the M22, or the Viking Pro 2.5?


There is a DIY solution - using a Butler Creek Blizzard rifle scope clear flip-top cover (and adding your own diffuser film). See my Nitecore EA4 thread for a discussion of how this works.


----------



## oKtosiTe

selfbuilt said:


> There is a DIY solution - using a Butler Creek Blizzard rifle scope clear flip-top cover (and adding your own diffuser film). See my Nitecore EA4 thread for a discussion of how this works.


D'oh! I really thought I only posted that question in the other thread. My apologies and thanks again.
(In my defense, it was pretty late. )


----------



## NorthernStar

EKinOR said:


> Does anyone know if it's possible to mod this light to a 2x18650 configuration to get longer run times?



This is an interesting question that i have thought about to. Do you mean an extension tube with space for an extra 18650 battery? Me to would like to have that feature to get longer runtime,or even better a handle shaped like the one on the Sunwayman T45C which is non bulky and yet contains 2x18650 batteries placed in a side by side configuration.


----------



## bram005

Also was thinking to buy this flashlight i end up with the nitecore tm26 really nice flashlight. I think Nitecore is a really great flashlight brand, hope they can keep it that way


----------



## wheelsonly

I bought both the srt7 and the pd35 not sure what one to keep..any thoughts?


----------



## valravn

first of all, i want to to thank you, selfbuilt, for this excellent review. it made my purchase decision.

what i wanted to add is, that if you loosen the head slightly, the max current drops from 2.75A to 1.5A. (on full, 2.600A Sanyo battery)
only the maximum brithness is affected by that, and i'm not completetly sure if thats a hidden feature or not.


anyway, i'm perfectly happy with it, and it did the first test like a charm, when i checked the unlit area around the firework batteries i set up in 150m distance before remotely detonating them. 
perfect spill, great throw. especially considered the size. 
it's not that much larger than the fenix ld20 i used before, but that one only went about 70m i'd estimate. 
I especially love the green light, because i'm slightly color blind, and it make distinguishing green and red wires much easier in dim conditions. the red one works less good for that, but shines when it comes to blue and purple. i dont have any use for the blue. sadly it does not make markings on Euro bills glow. no UV it seems. what it does make glow are some text markers. maybe my bills are all fakes?? :thinking:


----------



## tedscossie

So the SRT7 is a good tactical flash light and can withstand drops and heavy work?

Thanks,
Ted


----------



## tedscossie

Also does anyone have any comparison or test the SRT 7 with the Olight M22?

Thanks,
Ted


----------



## wheelsonly

the m22 Is in this comparo.


----------



## selfbuilt

valravn said:


> what i wanted to add is, that if you loosen the head slightly, the max current drops from 2.75A to 1.5A. (on full, 2.600A Sanyo battery)
> only the maximum brithness is affected by that, and i'm not completetly sure if thats a hidden feature or not.


Interesting, I hadn't noticed that. I'll double-check my SRT7 later and see if it does the same.
_
EDIT: No, if I loosen the head at all, the light just shuts off._



tedscossie said:


> So the SRT7 is a good tactical flash light and can withstand drops and heavy work?


Hard to say how well any light will withstand drops and heavy work. Unless the electronics are potted (and few are), I would proceed with caution with any light.

As for a comparison to the M22, as wheelsonly said, that is included in this review.

And :welcome: everyone!


----------



## wheelsonly

Ever plan on reviewing a pd35 ? I have both but I love your stats very informative


----------



## selfbuilt

wheelsonly said:


> Ever plan on reviewing a pd35 ? I have both but I love your stats very informative


I may ... not sure yet.
_
EDIT: PD35 review is now up._


----------



## Krayte

Just ordered the SRT7, my first proper flash-light, I had a Nebo Redline but it clearly wasn't what it was advertised to be and it also burned out in about a week. When the SRT7 arrives, hopefully before the winter camping trip I'm wanting to make it floodier and I've heard the "best" way to do this is by using the diffuser from Olight's M22. Now i live in the uk so things are slightly harder to come by and i was curious as to what the actual diffuser i'd need to order is called. When i go to Olight's UK website, click on the accessories page and select the M22 it brings up the suitable accessories for that light, however the Diffuser is listed as "Diffuser (S Series)". Logic is telling me this is incorrect as a google search tells me the S Series is 23mm, the site also has a "Diffuser (M Series)" and "Diffuser (M20 Series)", none of which list the models which they fit though i can only assume both would fit the m22 considering it's both in the M series and an upgraded version of the M20, also meaning both would fit the SRT7. I've also found a UK site that offers M series filters for cheaper and just wanted to confirm my suspicions before i order from it. In short, if i order a filter from HERE will it fit the SRT7?


----------



## selfbuilt

Krayte said:


> In short, if i order a filter from HERE will it fit the SRT7?


Maybe not. The dimensions of the Olight M-series lights changed over time, from ~36mm on the original M20, to ~41mm on the current M22. To make matters worse, some vendors sell the newer diffuser covers, but still list them by the old model lights. So you have to make sure of the dimensions of the specific one you are ordering. I recommend you contact the vendor to confirm the dimensions.

And :welcome:


----------



## Krayte

selfbuilt said:


> Maybe not. The dimensions of the Olight M-series lights changed over time, from ~36mm on the original M20, to ~41mm on the current M22. To make matters worse, some vendors sell the newer diffuser covers, but still list them by the old model lights. So you have to make sure of the dimensions of the specific one you are ordering. I recommend you contact the vendor to confirm the dimensions.
> 
> And :welcome:




I'm glad to be here, good to see some high quality and objective reviews!
So the Flashaholic.co.uk store contacted me back and it seems the internal dimensions are 35mm, so i just took the plunge and ordered the filter from Olight themselves. 
Thanks for the advice though!


----------



## Alfred143

wheelsonly said:


> I bought both the srt7 and the pd35 not sure what one to keep..any thoughts?


Sold my PD35 to get the SRT7.

I'm glad I did. Two reasons. 1) higher output with longer throw. 2) Smart Magnetic ring is amazing. I don't have to cycle through the all the modes to get to a desired brightness like the pd35. Just twist to the left or right.


----------



## BronzeLincolns

i'm really considering getting this light. it was between this and the streamlight protac HL 3 which apparently isnt available anywhere and is on backorder at the stores. from the ANSI stats the protac is brighter and has more throw but the STR7 is pretty bright too on paper and has many more modes and the adjustable light ring which is awesome. i'll probably be going with the SRT7 for variety of features and that its still pretty compact.

while reading the user manual scan for the STR7 on nitecore's website, it mentioned that the ANSI tests were ran while using 1x 18650 2600mah nitecore batteries and 2x CR123 1550mah nitecore batteries. seems like the batteries you get make a noticable difference but don't know if it would be enough to make up for the 60 to 170 lumen discrepency the SRT7 is getting from these tests.

the reviewer mentioned that batteries get pricey so maybe the recommended batteries are pricey or hard to come by. 

excellent review regardless. i've learned a lot in the short time i've been looking at these threads and researching flashlight info in general.


----------



## selfbuilt

BronzeLincolns said:


> while reading the user manual scan for the STR7 on nitecore's website, it mentioned that the ANSI tests were ran while using 1x 18650 2600mah nitecore batteries and 2x CR123 1550mah nitecore batteries. seems like the batteries you get make a noticable difference but don't know if it would be enough to make up for the 60 to 170 lumen discrepency the SRT7 is getting from these tests.
> the reviewer mentioned that batteries get pricey so maybe the recommended batteries are pricey or hard to come by.


It is not uncommon for multi-power lights to show somewhat higher max output on 2xCR123A and 2xRCR, compared to 1x18650. The SRT7 is one of the lights that does. The brand of batteries won't make a difference - it is simply a factor of how the circuit responds to different voltages. Stick with quality brand cells and you will do fine (i.e., no xxxxfire rechargeables).

And :welcome:


----------



## BronzeLincolns

thank you for the replay.

i've seen the SRT7 bundled with a battery and charger. the batteries were rated for 3100 and 3400mah. will getting a higher mah than the 2600mah batteries recommended by the manufacturer help or hurt my lights performance?


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

It won't do either. The mAh rating relates to battery capacity, so the light will just run a little longer on the 3400mAh battery vs the 2600mAh one.


----------



## soul347

Hi everyone. I received my Nitecore SRT7 which is my very first flashlight. I noticed that there are some extra "rings" outside of the main spill area of the beam. It's most prevalent on turbo, but can be seen it dimmer settings as well. Is this normal for the SRT7?


----------



## selfbuilt

Some degree of rings in the spill are common on more "throwy" lights like the SRT7. :shrug:


----------



## soul347

selfbuilt said:


> Some degree of rings in the spill are common on more "throwy" lights like the SRT7. :shrug:



Thanks for the response selfbuilt. The rings are not in the main spill area, but is just outside the spill and it is quite prevalent especially at close distances. Not sure if it's normal


----------



## selfbuilt

soul347 said:


> Thanks for the response selfbuilt. The rings are not in the main spill area, but is just outside the spill and it is quite prevalent especially at close distances. Not sure if it's normal


Hard to say without pics. :shrug:


----------



## soul347

selfbuilt said:


> Hard to say without pics. :shrug:



Here is a link where you can see the picture: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...uthkey=!AM57lzk5Z1tJtSM&v=3&ithint=photo,.jpg

The bright spot is the main spill area. You can clearly see the rings a few inches from the main spill area and extends for another few inches.


----------



## selfbuilt

Yes, I would say that is within a "normal" range. There is a noticeable ring on my SRT7, with some subtle ones underneath. There is a bit more of a tint variance on your sample, but that is also something that is quite variable.


----------



## soul347

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, I would say that is within a "normal" range. There is a noticeable ring on my SRT7, with some subtle ones underneath. There is a bit more of a tint variance on your sample, but that is also something that is quite variable.



Appreciate the response again. Surprised to know that that tiny can vary noticeably on the same flashlight. Would you say yours is warmer or colder in color?


----------



## y260

soul347 said:


> Appreciate the response again. Surprised to know that that tiny can vary noticeably on the same flashlight. Would you say yours is warmer or colder in color?



If I can chime in, I've seen a few different SRT7's and the beam almost always pulls neutral on the hotspot and turns a little purple at the extremity. As far as artifacts- on my light, I have one ring around the outside of the beam and three triangles making up a perfect "nuclear radiation" logo


----------



## selfbuilt

soul347 said:


> Would you say yours is warmer or colder in color?





y260 said:


> If I can chime in, I've seen a few different SRT7's and the beam almost always pulls neutral on the hotspot and turns a little purple at the extremity.


Yes, this a good way to describe it for most throwy lights. The point is that the tint is rarely entirely consistent across the beam. 

As a general rule, tint is often relatively warmer in the hotspot/corona, and cooler toward the end of the spill. This presumably has something to do with the actual emission pattern of the emitter, and its interaction with the base of the reflector. I have found tint shifts across the beam to be relatively more noticeable in throwy-style lights, making me think the reflector design and position play a fairly important role.


----------



## selfbuilt

Following up on some discussion in one of my other threads, I thought I would update this thread with some relevant comments.



oKtosiTe said:


> True, although that's a bit final. The point would be to easily change between diffused and non-diffused.
> I'm also looking into diffusing the SRT7.


There are removable diffuser films (although these don't typically work as well as the more permanent type). Glad press-n-seal comes to mind, for ex.

For the SRT7, the standard Olight M22 diffuser is a perfect fit - nice and snug. Of course, it's not a flip diffuser. You could build your own flip-top diffuser using the Butler Creek Blizzard flip-open scope cover (size 5 - 1.6-1.69 inch, 40.64-42.92mm), as described in my Nitecore EA4 thread. The SRT7 is the same opening as the EA4, and I can confirm that flip-top scope cover works fine. :wave:



oKtosiTe said:


> That (the Butler Creek Blizzard solution) was exactly my plan. I just love the implementation of the flip-top diffuser on the G25C2, but feel the SRT7 could help me somewhat with my color-blindness (e.g.: point a red light at a red and a green pen, and only the red one will light up). Right now money is still a restricting factor, but I can't help constantly scouting for what would be the perfect EDC for me. Both those lights meet most of my requirements (e.g.: 800+ lumens, fairly throwy, diffusible) , but the SRT7 right now looks a bit more attractive due to it's multi colored LEDs, reversible pocket clip and variable output. As always, thank you for your time and your hugely helpful insights.


Happy to help. One comment I would make is that SRT7 is using standard 5mm tri-colored LEDs, which are relatively low output. You might want to also consider the Nitecore Chaemeleon series, as these have at least one proper dedicated colored XP-E (in addition to the 5mm tri-colored ones).

Also, if going the Blizzard Creek scope cover route on the SRT7, note that you will slightly affect output (due to the rim of the cover, which partially blocks some of the emitters on the periphery). It's not much though - and well worth it in my books to smooth out the less-than-attractive overlapping 5mm beam patterns.


----------



## oKtosiTe

selfbuilt said:


> One comment I would make is that SRT7 is using standard 5mm tri-colored LEDs, which are relatively low output.


I know, but it seems a reasonable compromise for the convenience of not having to swap filters. 



selfbuilt said:


> You might want to also consider the Nitecore Chaemeleon series, as these have at least one proper dedicated colored XP-E (in addition to the 5mm tri-colored ones).


I have, as well as the D25LC2 Color, but due to my nightblindness I'm looking for something with at least about 800 lumens of white output, which neither of them offers. :candle:



selfbuilt said:


> Also, if going the Blizzard Creek scope cover route on the SRT7, note that you will slightly affect output (due to the rim of the cover, which partially blocks some of the emitters on the periphery). It's not much though - and well worth it in my books to smooth out the less-than-attractive overlapping 5mm beam patterns.


I've read about that elsewhere as well. Another reasonable compromise.


----------



## selfbuilt

oKtosiTe said:


> I have, as well as the D25LC2 Color, but due to my nightblindness I'm looking for something with at least about 800 lumens of white output, which neither of them offers. :candle:


Ah, I see. Yes, I can see how nightblindness could offer challenges in that regard. Hopefully the SRT7 will fit the bill. If you are looking for something a lot brighter, there's always the Powertac X3000 Gen II (3xXM-L2, and separate colored XP-Es for RGB). Of course, not exactly cheap, and it's hardly an EDC-sized light.


----------



## oKtosiTe

selfbuilt said:


> Ah, I see. Yes, I can see how nightblindness could offer challenges in that regard. Hopefully the SRT7 will fit the bill. If you are looking for something a lot brighter, there's always the Powertac X3000 Gen II (3xXM-L2, and separate colored XP-Es for RGB). Of course, not exactly cheap, and it's hardly an EDC-sized light.


Ooh, that's neat. Would have probably been very interested if I didn't already have my TM11. The TM11 on medium/high has helped me identify that approximate sweet spot for a minimum max output level for my prospective EDC. Since that level is now attainable in at best (size v.s. runtime) single 18650 lights, that's where I'm focusing my attention at the moment. But I digress.


----------



## selfbuilt

oKtosiTe said:


> The TM11 on medium/high has helped me identify that approximate sweet spot for a minimum max output level for my prospective EDC. Since that level is now attainable in at best (size v.s. runtime) single 18650 lights, that's where I'm focusing my attention at the moment.


Makes sense. In that context, the SRT7 is probably one of your best bets.


----------



## serikus

I want to buy SRT7, when i showed it to my friend - he started to want too. Now there will be stupid question. Really stupid. 

* This question asked friend. Really friend. I swear.



Spoiler: this is the question



Does blue light of this light ( Nitecore SRT-7 ) detect blood.. and.. sperm 



As i understood he want to check his room 

Thank you, i hope you wont trolling me


----------



## selfbuilt

I personally have not tried detecting biological fluids with the blue light, but typically you need something with a strong UV wavelength presence. :shrug:


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

You would also need goggles to go along with a UV light, to block out the light, so the fluorescence would stand. 

The color LEDs on this light are a nice bonus, but they are not really something you'll use. Still, it would have been nice if they went with a 390nm led, instead of the blue 450nm, or in place of the green one.


----------



## oKtosiTe

InfinitusEquitas said:


> You would also need goggles to go along with a UV light, to block out the light, so the fluorescence would stand.
> 
> The color LEDs on this light are a nice bonus, but they are not really something you'll use. Still, it would have been nice if they went with a 390nm led, instead of the blue 450nm, or in place of the green one.


As a colorblind person, I do expect to use the colored LEDs to help me tell apart colors that I can't using regular white light.


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

oKtosiTe said:


> As a colorblind person, I do expect to use the colored LEDs to help me tell apart colors that I can't using regular white light.



I'm suddenly reminded of a scene from the third hangover movie. Hope it helps


----------



## oKtosiTe

InfinitusEquitas said:


> I'm suddenly reminded of a scene from the third hangover movie. Hope it helps


 While that's not exactly how colorblindness generally works (I do see color, just can't tell which one), the SRT7 would definitely help me should I ever find myself in that situation.


----------



## soul347

serikus said:


> I want to buy SRT7, when i showed it to my friend - he started to want too. Now there will be stupid question. Really stupid.
> 
> * This question asked friend. Really friend. I swear.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: this is the question
> 
> 
> 
> Does blue light of this light ( Nitecore SRT-7 ) detect blood.. and.. sperm
> 
> 
> 
> As i understood he want to check his room
> 
> Thank you, i hope you wont trolling me



lol though I've never tried spotting those 2 specific fluids, I can attest that the blue LED does indeed make certain markings and stains more visible by making them appear darker and more contrasted with the surface where the mark is on.


----------



## soul347

So I was playing around yesterday with my SRT7 while screwing on and off the tail cap, and I noticed right after that the tail clicky switch became more squishy feeling and even makes a noticeable squishy sound, where as before the button felt quite firm. Any idea how to fix this? 

Also I noticed that the package came with a spare clicky switch cap. If ever I wanted to use the spare, how would I replace the original one?


----------



## selfbuilt

Most likely it Is just the switch retaining ring that had loosened up. You need to tighten it back down, using firm tweezers or snap ring pliers. Sometimes even a paper clip will do. Look for the holes in the ring, located around the spring inside the tailcap.


----------



## soul347

selfbuilt said:


> Most likely it Is just the switch retaining ring that had loosened up. You need to tighten it back down, using firm tweezers or snap ring pliers. Sometimes even a paper clip will do. Look for the holes in the ring, located around the spring inside the tailcap.



Okay how would I do that? Do I just press down against that metal plate inside the tail cap?


----------



## selfbuilt

soul347 said:


> Okay how would I do that? Do I just press down against that metal plate inside the tail cap?


No, turn it clockwise to tighten. This is why you need to have something you can insert into the holes, to let you turn the disc.


----------



## soul347

Ah alright makes sense! Thanks for the help I'm completely new to the whole flashlight scene


----------



## electromage

Thanks for the review *selfbuilt*. I finally got an SRT7, and I'm having a control ring issue, very similar to what *mudcamper* described. My issue is between blue and "police" strobe. When I turn the ring counter-clockwise (down), it will seemingly jump from red to green, to police. If I back off a little, or rotate the light, it activates blue. Short Video.

I've done a few mods, and I'm not afraid of opening it up, but is this a simple issue that I can fix, like a rotated PCB inside the head, or a defect in the hall effect sensor? Has anybody successfully repaired it?

Thanks!


----------



## selfbuilt

Hmmm, I would be interested to hear if others have experience correcting. Personally, I would be inclined to return it for a replacement, unless the fix is simple and reliable.


----------



## electromage

I'd be happy if none of the SRTs had that mode. It seems pointless, it could get a civilian in trouble for impersonating law enforcement, and it's not nearly bright enough to be useful to real law enforcement in any way.

I'll try opening up the head with my strap wrenches so I don't mar it, and see if there's anything obvious.


----------



## carl

I was just looking at a German YouTube review by Arthur Konze (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpcvKxVhYeM) which shows bare threads inside the tailcap (at 3:02 minutes into the video). This is the same situation with another control ring light, the latest Sunwayman V25C, which also has bare threads inside the tailcap. 

Why are they avoiding HAIII coating the threads inside the tailcap?


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

Three reasons, in no particular order;

-They want to reduce resistance as much as possible.
-Reduction in cost.
-Those threads are not meant for extensive use, they expect you to use the tailcap when putting in and taking out batteries.


----------



## carl

On the Nitecore site (http://www.nitecore.com/productDetail.aspx?id=84#.U1L2AHlOWUk), the SRT6 tailcap picture shows dark HA coating on the inner tailcap threads. Yet, on the Youtube video of the SRT7 by Arthur Konze, that video shows bare inner tailcap threads. Are they using different tailcaps on the SRT6 and SRT7?


----------



## soul347

carl said:


> I was just looking at a German YouTube review by Arthur Konze (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpcvKxVhYeM) which shows bare threads inside the tailcap (at 3:02 minutes into the video). This is the same situation with another control ring light, the latest Sunwayman V25C, which also has bare threads inside the tailcap.
> 
> Why are they avoiding HAIII coating the threads inside the tailcap?



I am not sure why it shows that way in the video, but I can tell you with absolute assurance that the threads inside the tail cap of my SRT7 are black anodized as well as the threads on the tail of the light itself.


----------



## thedoc007

I can also confirm both my SRT7s had anodized threads at the tail cap (I sold one of them). The threads at the head are not anodized, but they don't need to be. If the tail cap threads were not anodized, that would be a deal-breaker for me...I like to be able to lock out my lights.

Edit: did a high speed scan through the YouTube video...I think he only showed the threads at the head. So in fact, there is no discrepancy here at all, unless I missed it.


----------



## Richwouldnt

Just received mine today. As an amateur astronomer it looks to me like the red LED light level is very good for reading star charts without loss of night vision. This, combined with the continuously variable white light output adjustable from very low to 96o lumens, makes this a very versatile light. The size makes it fall well within the upper end of two 16350 and one 18650 battery size lights and the standard 1" diameter barrel makes it readily weapon mountable with standard 1" scope rings. Overall a very nice light IMO.


----------



## purple hulk

Hi. Got myself an srt7 recently ... n just wanna chexk w u guys why in e world is there alot of free play w e tactical ring even when the tail cap is fully screwed in. U guys facing e same problems as well or im just unlucky to get a dud. Many thanks


----------



## selfbuilt

Richwouldnt said:


> Just received mine today. As an amateur astronomer it looks to me like the red LED light level is very good for reading star charts without loss of night vision.


Good to know, thanks for sharing. :wave:



purple hulk said:


> Hi. Got myself an srt7 recently ... n just wanna chexk w u guys why in e world is there alot of free play w e tactical ring even when the tail cap is fully screwed in. U guys facing e same problems as well or im just unlucky to get a dud. Many thanks


No, that is quite common with metal grip rings. Unless they are thread in, there is usually a fair amount of play. Part of the reason why I prefer rubber ones generally.

And :welcome:


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

Richwouldnt said:


> Just received mine today. As an amateur astronomer it looks to me like the red LED light level is very good for reading star charts without loss of night vision.



Red lights in general, if you make the effort not to look at the LED itself, are really very very good at preserving night vision. I like keeping mine on just the red by default. Really wish nitecore would update the driver a bit with a lower "low" but I doubt that will ever happen.


----------



## electromage

If I could change the mode layout for the SRT7, I would do away with the "police" strobe, as it seems to serve no useful purpose. I would tighten up the dead zone in the white dimming between standby and low, set the low for much lower, and I would incorporate the same voltage meter that their other lights have. (Selecting standby or turning the light on in standby would blink to indicate battery voltage).


----------



## rickypanecatyl

electromage said:


> If I could change the mode layout for the SRT7, I would do away with the "police" strobe, as it seems to serve no useful purpose. I would tighten up the dead zone in the white dimming between standby and low, set the low for much lower...



+1 up to this point. I wonder if they'd be interested in doing a simple version of this light with no red and green, no disco modes and a straightforward turn the ring all the way one way for high and the other direction for low/off. 

I'd certainly buy it and all the more if they incorporated your tune ups in the ring!


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

You mean like the SRT6? Or you might want to take a look at the sunwayman V25C.


----------



## Kyle J

Does this flashlight ship with a Nitecore battery? Mine will be delivered tomorrow, however the panasonic batteries won't be here for another few days. 

I chosePanasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh. Was that a good choice?

I also chose NiteCore IntelliCharger i2 Charger? Was that good also?


----------



## thedoc007

Kyle J said:


> Does this flashlight ship with a Nitecore battery? Mine will be delivered tomorrow, however the panasonic batteries won't be here for another few days.




Not unless it specifically stated that, i.e. it was a bundle with batteries included. Generally speaking, lights don't ship with 18650s. 



Kyle J said:


> I chosePanasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh. Was that a good choice?
> 
> I also chose NiteCore IntelliCharger i2 Charger? Was that good also?



I never recommend the bare green Panasonics, simply because they are some of the very longest cells in existence, which means they are incompatible with many lights. Not sure whether you got a button top, either, but you do need a button top cell with the SRT7. It has a physical polarity protection that won't work with true flat top cells. The cells are quality, though, so if they do work at all, they will work well.

The Nitecore i2 is a fine choice. It is a bit slow, but it terminates properly and is dead easy to use. Good choice for a first charger!


----------



## Kyle J

thedoc007 said:


> Not unless it specifically stated that, i.e. it was a bundle with batteries included. Generally speaking, lights don't ship with 18650s.
> 
> 
> 
> I never recommend the bare green Panasonics



I got the protected ones, forgot to add that. So am I okay?


----------



## thedoc007

Kyle J said:


> I got the protected ones, forgot to add that. So am I okay?



I can't guarantee it, but I think so. The protected ones all look like they have button tops, so you should be fine.


----------



## Blueman

This was the first TRUE Flashlight I ever bought. I have bought ALOT of the Chinese cheap imitation flashlights.... 20.00 with batteries and chargers... Good but cheap.
The SRT-7 has proved it's worth over and over, no fuss, less the little light that says battery is going dead has never showed white. And yes, I do have Nightcore Batteries, 3800ma. Still don't know why the thing won't turn white, or stop showing red. But, no fuss, still works great.


----------



## ACruceSalus

Isn't it a red LED? How can it turn white? My understanding is that it blinks faster as the voltage drops not that it changes color. Also don't you mean 3600 not 3800 mAh cells? I don't think they make 3800s. I've found my 7 very useful and I'm generally happy with it.


----------



## Blueman

I wrote that... lol Nitecore 2600mah. Geeze... I must have been tired.... Sorry.


----------



## Fumer Tue

kj2 said:


> Thanks for the review  (yes, i'm first again  )
> 
> I wonder how the selector-ring will hold-up during months/years of usage.



Are KJ2 and KJ75 the same guy. Like the reviews of KJ75:twothumbs


----------



## ice_man

Hi everyone, this is my first post and I also got the SRT7 as my first LED flashlight. This review is pretty helpful and very thorough. 

Thank you! :wave:


----------



## selfbuilt

ice_man said:


> Hi everyone, this is my first post and I also got the SRT7 as my first LED flashlight. This review is pretty helpful and very thorough.


Glad you found it useful ... and :welcome:


----------



## ice_man

selfbuilt said:


> Glad you found it useful ... and :welcome:




Thanks selfbuilt. I have been watching your video reviews since last week. Very informative! 

Anyway, I am now planning on getting a good and sturdy flashlight for the house. I am looking into the Nitecore EA8, is it complicated to use? I want it to be intuitive as my wife and in-laws are not pretty techie when it comes to gears. 

I also plan on getting an EDC, and I am torn between the Thrunite TN12 and the Nitecore P12. Any advice?


----------



## ice_man

selfbuilt said:


> Glad you found it useful ... and :welcome:




Yes, your reviews are very informative! I have been watching your video reviews on Youtube as well. 

Anyhow, I wanted to get a good and sturdy flashlight for the house and saw your review of the Nitecore EA8. Do you think it's simple enough to use? My wife and my in-laws are not that too techie and they want something intuitive and easy to use.

Also, I want to get an EDC flashlight but I am now torn between the Thrunite TN12 and the Nitecore P12. Any advice?


----------



## selfbuilt

ice_man said:


> Anyway, I am now planning on getting a good and sturdy flashlight for the house. I am looking into the Nitecore EA8, is it complicated to use? I want it to be intuitive as my wife and in-laws are not pretty techie when it comes to gears.


I probably wouldn't start newbies with the EA4/EA8 style user interfaces (as it requires getting used to partial/full presses, different timings of holding down the switch, etc.). I personally am a fan of control ring interfaces combined with a physical clicky switch. That's pretty rare in the AA market though.

Something like the Eagletac GX/SX series lights might do well. Or the Sunwayman F40A or Jetbeam SRA40 two button interface might be good choices. 4x or 6x cells is fine (8x is overkill for most applications). 



> I also plan on getting an EDC, and I am torn between the Thrunite TN12 and the Nitecore P12. Any advice?


I provide common comparison comments in the second post of each review ... it really comes down to your preference on the those various criteria..


----------



## ice_man

selfbuilt said:


> I probably wouldn't start newbies with the EA4/EA8 style user interfaces (as it requires getting used to partial/full presses, different timings of holding down the switch, etc.). I personally am a fan of control ring interfaces combined with a physical clicky switch. That's pretty rare in the AA market though.
> 
> Something like the Eagletac GX/SX series lights might do well. Or the Sunwayman F40A or Jetbeam SRA40 two button interface might be good choices. 4x or 6x cells is fine (8x is overkill for most applications).
> 
> 
> I provide common comparison comments in the second post of each review ... it really comes down to your preference on the those various criteria..



Thanks again for the recommendations. I will look into the Eagletac and SWM brands.  

Nitecore SRT7 has got to be the best looking LED flashlight for me. I admit, what attracted me was the looks when I was looking into getting an LED flashlight. The extra features was just icing on the cake after I learned about its features.

Anyway, I decided to get both TN12 and P12 just to try it out. Will keep the one that would suit my EDC needs.

Also, before I found the SRT7, I was looking into Surefire but was put-off by the price and the low lumens they use on their LED flashlights. I guess the pricing is higher because it is made in the US? Are they worth the price you pay for? Their quality should be really great since the SRT7 is already pretty great for me.


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

Question... why not the SRT3? It runs off of a AA battery, and while quite a bit dimmer, it is still more than bright enough for most applications. Toss in a 14500 and it puts out 400-500 lumens. Only real minus to it, is that for a AA light it's big.


----------



## selfbuilt

InfinitusEquitas said:


> Question... why not the SRT3? It runs off of a AA battery, and while quite a bit dimmer, it is still more than bright enough for most applications. Toss in a 14500 and it puts out 400-500 lumens. Only real minus to it, is that for a AA light it's big.


Yes, I'm surprised the SRT3 has not gotten more attention here. Nitecore never sent me one for review, so I don't have have detailed tests. I have handled one, and it is a good quality light. A bit long in 1xAA/14500 form (and only a single 5mm LED, so lower output color modes), but still a good one to consider. Especially since it also runs CR123A/RCR.


----------



## mikemild13

Thank you selfbuilt for another great review. It convinced me to get one.

I have been interested in trying a variable ring light for a while and this light seemed to be the right one to give a try. After using it for a short time and comparing it to my G25C2, I can't decide which I prefer. That's not to say I dislike either, I love them both. While I like that the SRT7 has a much lower brightness level I find the ring slightly more difficult to operate, just slightly. Maybe it's because I'm more used to turning the head (I also have the TX25C2) and I need to get more familiar with the new UI. The beams are very similar with a slight personal preference to the Eagletac. But, being able to tailstand with the Nitecore is a very big plus. All in all, both lights are great and I will have to decide daily which one carry and which to have on standby. Not a bad dilemma to have at all. 

I've read through this entire post and didn't see anyone explain the real function of the red/blue strobe. Did I miss it? My only guess is that it's a gimmick but there must be a logical reason for it being there, right? Bueller?

While I like the RBG, as others have said, it's of limited use but nice to have. Why not? One comment I read indicated that red made reading star charts easier on the eyes. Quite a few years ago we used to change the lighting in the submarine control room to red lights during night hours. It was called "Rig for Red". It was always the thought that the red lights made it easier for the Officer of the Deck to see through the periscope at night, if needed. Somewhere along the line the red lights were not used and instead it was "Rig for Gray", which was a very, very low level of normal lighting, followed by "Rig for Black" or, lights out. I don't remember when that happened, or why. If anyone knows more about the differences, I'd be interested in hearing it. Probably not the right forum for this and if not, I do apologize.


----------



## thedoc007

mikemild13 said:


> I've read through this entire post and didn't see anyone explain the real function of the red/blue strobe. Did I miss it? My only guess is that it's a gimmick but there must be a logical reason for it being there, right?



I think Nitecore put it there for the gimmick, actually. But I think it COULD be useful, given the right circumstances. In a real emergency, few things grab attention like a red and blue strobe. If there was a car accident, for example, and you needed to warn other drivers to slow down, it would work quite well. And unlike a full power strobe, it wouldn't blind those drivers in the bargain. It has no reach, and only a few lumens, but if you point at directly at someone, it is visible from a long way off. 

Just remember to use common sense...don't use it in any way that could be misconstrued as impersonating a police officer, and only use it if there is a genuine emergency.


----------



## mikemild13

thedoc007 said:


> I think Nitecore put it there for the gimmick, actually. But I think it COULD be useful, given the right circumstances. In a real emergency, few things grab attention like a red and blue strobe. If there was a car accident, for example, and you needed to warn other drivers to slow down, it would work quite well. And unlike a full power strobe, it wouldn't blind those drivers in the bargain. It has no reach, and only a few lumens, but if you point at directly at someone, it is visible from a long way off.
> 
> Just remember to use common sense...don't use it in any way that could be misconstrued as impersonating a police officer, and only use it if there is a genuine emergency.



Never thought of using it for the emergency situation you described. I guess that could work but I wonder if people would stop to help or keep on going thinking there must be an emergency service person on scene.


----------



## selfbuilt

mikemild13 said:


> I've read through this entire post and didn't see anyone explain the real function of the red/blue strobe. Did I miss it? My only guess is that it's a gimmick but there must be a logical reason for it being there, right? Bueller?


I didn't post one, because I don't have one. 

In the early days of LED lights, I used to recall a lot of commentaries about why one color was better than another for a specific task - but this was typically before good quality white LEDs were made. White LEDs quickly surpassed dedicated colors in pretty much every use, although the technology exists (as demonstrated here) to bring back RGB.

I can can appreciate red light - I used to do darkroom work before digital cameras came along. So it's helpful when you have (and want to keep) dark-adapted vision (i.e. rods, not cones). It's also good for field work in the summer, since it doesn't attract bugs the way white light does. I still use a red LED headlamp when heading out to do my outdoor beamshots (i.e., the only white light is the few secs each flashlight is on).

I recall some discussion of green for map reading or hunting applications, but have no first hand knowledge. Can't see much use for blue, unless it is more into the UV range used for detecting biological materials (but that would need additional filtering). I would consider RGB more of a novelty item than anything else ... except for the R, which is why you see more dual red and white light models.


----------



## oKtosiTe

selfbuilt said:


> I didn't post one, because I don't have one.
> 
> In the early days of LED lights, I used to recall a lot of commentaries about why one color was better than another for a specific task - but this was typically before good quality white LEDs were made. White LEDs quickly surpassed dedicated colors in pretty much every use, although the technology exists (as demonstrated here) to bring back RGB.
> 
> I can can appreciate red light - I used to do darkroom work before digital cameras came along. So it's helpful when you have (and want to keep) dark-adapted vision (i.e. rods, not cones). It's also good for field work in the summer, since it doesn't attract bugs the way white light does. I still use a red LED headlamp when heading out to do my outdoor beamshots (i.e., the only white light is the few secs each flashlight is on).
> 
> I recall some discussion of green for map reading or hunting applications, but have no first hand knowledge. Can't see much use for blue, unless it is more into the UV range used for detecting biological materials (but that would need additional filtering). I would consider RGB more of a novelty item than anything else ... except for the R, which is why you see more dual red and white light models.



I'm hoping to use it to aid with identifying colors (pencils, wires, etc.) because of my colorblindness. It probably wouldn't help much with secondary colors like brown and purple, but should be useful in many situations.
As for the red-blue strobe... :thinking:


----------



## mikemild13

Thank you for the reply selfbuilt. I also appreciate the red light and will probably use that color more than I think. The green for hunting is something I've heard but have not tried. Since there are green laser sights there must be something to it.


----------



## ACruceSalus

mikemild13 said:


> But, being able to tailstand with the Nitecore is a very big plus. All in all, both lights are great and I will have to decide daily which one carry and which to have on standby. Not a bad dilemma to have at all.



I like the versatility of this light and tail standing is my main use. The first time I dropped it while trying to to carry it in my pocket as an EDC one of the lanyard holes on the tail cap slightly deformed and it doesn't tail stand now without assistance. Just a word of warning.


----------



## mikemild13

ACruceSalus said:


> I like the versatility of this light and tail standing is my main use. The first time I dropped it while trying to to carry it in my pocket as an EDC one of the lanyard holes on the tail cap slightly deformed and it doesn't tail stand now without assistance. Just a word of warning.



I bent one of the fins on my P12. I was able to bend it back so it still stands but, if it happens again in the same place it will probably crack. Not sure how to go about reshaping the lanyard hole though. Must have hit hard.


----------



## CelticCross74

For such a deep reflector I would think it should have a good bit more lux. The RGB feature on mine are all nearly useless. Still love the control ring.


----------



## selfbuilt

CelticCross74 said:


> For such a deep reflector I would think it should have a good bit more lux.


Actually, the SRT7 is quite consistent with others in this class. The Eagletac G25C2-II has similar reflector dimensions, and the same relative profile of throw to overall output.

I realize that it can be misleading, as we tend to equate reflector depth with throw. But in reality, it has more to do with the size and over shape/design of the reflector (e.g., I've seen "throwier" lights with reflectors that weren't as deep but wider overall). For a given reflector size class, what really changes with depth is the pattern around the hotspot. To really enhance throw, you typically need a bigger reflector (or conversely, a smaller emitting source).

And :welcome:


----------



## Tapis

InfinitusEquitas said:


> The V20C has a lower overall output, a more floody beam profile, and it has a lower low.


I am debating whether I should get a Nitecore SRT6 or a V20C. I don't mind about the lower output of the latter and would actually prefer a floodier beam and a lower moonlight, if this is indeed the case. But what is more important is the precision of the controle ring in lower modes. Which one of these lights has a better ring in that regard?


----------



## Tapis

Double.


----------



## selfbuilt

Tapis said:


> I don't mind about the lower output of the latter and would actually prefer a floodier beam and a lower moonlight, if this is indeed the case. But what is more important is the precision of the controle ring in lower modes. Which one of these lights has a better ring in that regard?


This figure from the review should help you decide:







The V20C spends a lot longer at its lower modes than the SRT7 does (and output is indeed lower). Depends on whether or not you consider that preferable.


----------



## Tapis

Thanks selfbuild. I promise to not overlook these charts next time. That being said, does SRT6's ring follow more or less the same curve than SRT7's?


----------



## selfbuilt

I suspect so, but haven't tested the SRT6.


----------



## phantom23

Tapis said:


> I am debating whether I should get a Nitecore SRT6 or a V20C. I don't mind about the lower output of the latter and would actually prefer a floodier beam and a lower moonlight, if this is indeed the case. But what is more important is the precision of the controle ring in lower modes. Which one of these lights has a better ring in that regard?


I owned both and I think SRT6 has much better ring. Feels more solid and much more precise.


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

The SRT6 has the same curve as the SRT7.

IMO the SRT6 feels better vs the sunwayman. Both are good lights, but I sold my V20C, and V25C, the SRT6 is sticking around... for the moment at least.


----------



## Tapis

Thanks. I ended up ordering the SRT6. Can someone please confirm that the Keeppowers 3400 mAh batteries fit in this light?


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

I'll check tonight.


----------



## Tapis

That would be nice. I have a couple of KP batteries, I prefer to avoid to buy new ones.


----------



## ACruceSalus

I have the KeepPower 2600 mAh batteries and they fit my SRT7. Looking at this I see that the 2600 is .5mm longer and .1mm shorter than the 3400.


----------



## radiopej

Hi,

My girlfriend's brother has the torch and batteries. They work fine


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

Just checked, they work fine.


----------



## Tapis

I just got my SRT6 and was impressed by the look and body colour in grey. I was expecting a dark metallic grey colour, but there's actually some brown mixed into it. Very nice. And I love the design too. 

My big disappointment comes from the overall balance of the light and the ring at lower settings. I don't feel comfortable holding the light in my hand, not because of it's a bit on the heavy side, but because it doesn't have like a fine chief knife a good balance. The weight of the head is pulling the light forward and down, what makes holding the light uncomfortable. If one holds the light the other way around and pretends that the tailcap is actually the head, all of sudden it becomes more comfortable to hold.

Regarding the ring, from off to the minimum lumens, there is a 5mm rotation gap before it starts shining. Is it normal? Also, the minimum lumens is supposed to be 0.1, but how come the Sunwayman V11R which starts at 1 lumen has a much lower output? Can somebody please check and tell me whether my SRT6's ring is working properly in the lowest settings?


----------



## selfbuilt

Tapis said:


> Regarding the ring, from off to the minimum lumens, there is a 5mm rotation gap before it starts shining. Is it normal? Also, the minimum lumens is supposed to be 0.1, but how come the Sunwayman V11R which starts at 1 lumen has a much lower output? Can somebody please check and tell me whether my SRT6's ring is working properly in the lowest settings?


Hard to say - my SRT7 has a ~2-3mm range after the Off detent before any light is produced, so this could just be natural variation. My V11R goes MUCH lower than 1 lumen (depending on battery), and certainly lower than my SRT7 on any battery. So what you describe sounds believable to me for the SRT6.


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

The balance of the light is unavoidable. Almost all smaller lights aren't really balanced, but at that scale it's not too much of a bother imo.

Definitely not .1 lumens on low for mine, stock or modded, and Jetbeam, Sunwayman, and Zebralight all have much lower lows.

There is some space on the turn where there doesn't appear to be any change in output... this is the same on all four SRT models, and imo normal.


----------



## oKtosiTe

To be fair, Sunwayman's website does state a 1 lumen minimum. Whether that is accurate is another question.


----------



## Tapis

Thanks all for your observations. What I like with the V11R is that the ring brings the light down to the minimum lumens and the tailcap switches it off. On the SRT6, one never know if the light is off or just on stand by. A few times I picked up the light and turned it on, only to realize that I actually forgot previously to turn it off. Has this "stand by" option have any use?


----------



## InfinitusEquitas

Standby drain would take a while to deplete any 18650, and with a protected battery even that is not much of a concern.

I like the off standby since it means I don't have to click it back on every time.


----------



## Taz80

I use the standby on my SRT7 all the time when I,m walking, most of the time I don't need light but when I do It's just a quick twist away. No turning the light back and forth in your hand to get to the clicky. The battery indicator is also a standby indicator.


----------



## ACruceSalus

The red battery indicated as Taz80 said also tells you when it is in standby mode by blinking about every five seconds. I've come to depend on it for this and I really like that it blinks when the battery is low. My SRT7's ring moves about 5mm before the light comes. The brightness stops increasing about 5mm before it reaches the turbo indent. At least to my eyes I don't notice any difference for the last 5mm. Also I don't know if you know it but it is not infinitely variable like the Sunwayman V11r but has, I believe, 32 step from lowest output to turbo. I was surprised by this when someone mentioned it in another thread. I but don't really notice it unless I really look for it.


----------



## Tapis

ACruceSalus said:


> Also I don't know if you know it but it is not infinitely variable like the Sunwayman V11r but has, I believe, 32 step from lowest output to turbo. I was surprised by this when someone mentioned it in another thread. I but don't really notice it unless I really look for it.


I didn't know that, but now that you have mentioned it, I can see by lighting a close wall and very slowly turning the ring that indeed they are steps. I really like the ring on the V11R. Is the V20C using 18650 batteries similar to the V11R, just bigger?


----------



## selfbuilt

Tapis said:


> Is the V20C using 18650 batteries similar to the V11R, just bigger?


The ring function is similiar, but the V20C spends a little longer at the lowest levels before noticeably increasing output. Checked out the Stevens' power law "perceived brightness" graphs in each of these reviews, to compare the ring turn to output.


----------



## Taz80

The V20C doesn't go as low as the V11R, at least in my sample. But it does go lower than my SRT7


----------



## CelticCross74

My SRT7 and SRT6 really seem to hate CR123's. I can put a fresh set into either and within 30 minutes or less the voltage indicators go crazy. My SRT6 does this in 15 minutes or less. Anybody got any ideas? Im using Panasonic 1550mah cells that are fresh so IDK what the problem is. They dftly make my SRT7 brighter though as well as my SRT6...anybody got any ideas?


----------



## Tapis

I complained before about the terrible balance of the SRT6. Now I wonder if the same flashlight with a fatter body using 26650 batteries instead of 18650, and with a maximum output of 2000+ lumens wouldn't be a very nice and logical upgrade to the SRT6. It would certainly improve the balance though


----------



## JohnH123

*Question for SRT7 owners*

I just got the SRT7, and I like it a lot. One minor thing bugs me, and I wonder if it is a defect in mine, or if they are all like that. When I turn the ring all the way to the left, right before the off position, it flashes a bright light once. Then from that off position, when I turn it to the right it flashes a bright light once (same position on the bezel when it flashes). Is mine a defect, or is this normal?

Thanks.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Question for SRT7 owners*



JohnH123 said:


> I just got the SRT7, and I like it a lot. One minor thing bugs me, and I wonder if it is a defect in mine, or if they are all like that. When I turn the ring all the way to the left, right before the off position, it flashes a bright light once. Then from that off position, when I turn it to the right it flashes a bright light once (same position on the bezel when it flashes). Is mine a defect, or is this normal?


You mean, all the way to the left of the white light continuous ramp (and not all the way to left of the ring, which is the beacon flash)?

Assuming you meant the detent at the left end of the continuous ramp, then no, that is not normal. My sample goes from off (at the detent) through the lowest levels as you start to to turn to the right. A flash here would be very annoying indeed. 

It sounds like yours either has some sort of pre-flash issue with the entering the minimum output state, or more likely there is some misadjustment with the ring. Either way, I would personally see about getting a repair/replacement.

And :welcome:


----------



## JohnH123

Oops, it is the beacon light. I just didn't look at it long enough to realize that. Thanks for pointing it out.


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## Night Glow

Mine is on order and look forward to using the SRT7 in the mountains of Colorado to see what goes "bump" in the night.


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## selfbuilt

JohnH123 said:


> Oops, it is the beacon light. I just didn't look at it long enough to realize that. Thanks for pointing it out.


Ah good, that is a relief.


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## selfbuilt

rrs said:


> An amazing amount of information and detail!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> Thank you very much for all of this!!!!


My pleasure, and :welcome:


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## CelticCross74

My SRT6 and 7 saga continues. Thank god for CPF and Selfbuilt reviews! Ever since I got both woefully underperfoming lights (vs Nitecores Specs) I have been on a quest to get the most performance out of the lights as I can. Ive had my SRT7 since it was first released and used it heavily until the chintzy plastic "tactical ring" broke in half. Once lights like the M22, G25C2 MkII etc came along and flat out smoked my expensive SRT7 the Nitecores had their cells pulled and were shelved. Then I read this review and was amazed at the output results between 1x and 2x power sources. So I ordered up some Orbtronic 16340's and the difference in performance in the SRT7 to my eyes is incredible. The 16340's also made an obvious performance improvement in my SRT6 just not as drastic a jump as my SRT7. I actually use the SRT7 again! Why output wise it is now a stones throw from my excellent G25C2 MkII which is saying a lot.

Also I wish Nitecore would stop saying that the SRT6 and 7 can use standard CR123 cells. They can but the low voltage sensor goes nuts as soon as you turn on a SRT6 or 7 running on standard CR123's as the sensor cannot tell the difference between fresh 3v primary cells and a very depleted 18650 or RCR. Annoying as hell and a design flaw that sticks out like a sore thumb. Nitecore hypes its SRT line very heavily they could at least do what their competition does and back it up. Yes the smart rings are very very nice. But as overall flashlights they are second rate unless you are in the know and have access to enthusiast info like CPF. Now....and only now nearly two years after I blew $110+ on what was supposed to be this 960 ANSI lumen RGB smart ring super light is it finally coming close to what it was hyped to be. 

My SRT6 is a better performer with RCR cells but the jump isnt as drastic as on the 7. I would pay Vinh handsomely to modify either light to where they actually put out Nitecores rated output alone. Nothing super special. I understand that the only Nitecores he works with is the Tiny Monster series and I have read that he would rather stay away from any of the regular mass produced Nitecores. Leaves me thinking Nitecores mass produced lights all just have cut rate everything when it comes to the actual electronics. I am thinking that for Vinh to mod say my SRT6 he knows he would have to change, upgrade and re solder every aspect of the electronics. I did read in JMPauls IS results thread that there is at least 1 SRT6 out there that is Vinh modified...

It is now Feb 2015 a good couple years since the release of the SRT line. Nitecore actually seems to be stepping it up with upgrades across most of their product lines. If they actually revamped the SRT series it would be the wisest move they could make. Oh and thank god for Eagletac. If it wasnt for Selfbuilt and this forum I would have never discovered them. ET seems to be just incapable of making bad lights and they smoke Nitecore in nearly every aspect besides ability to mass produce. I now have 6 ET's. Eagletac has made me a believer in high end high powered Chinese LED lights again after my SRT debacle. Lastly, why is the SRT6 so seemingly unpopular on CPF? Aside from its woeful actual output vs Nitecore BS marketing claims it is a very solid light and it has the better of the SRT smart rings like on the 7. I guess everybody that wanted a higher end SRT bought the 7 as most folks seem to have also swallowed the BS output claims as I did. Would love to see a member with any kind of testing equipment review the supposedly 930 out the front lumen SRT6 just so I can have a better idea on how much better of an idea it would have been to buy something else lol...


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## thedoc007

CelticCross74 said:


> But as overall flashlights they are second rate unless you are in the know and have access to enthusiast info like CPF.



I totally disagree with your conclusion. I appreciate your point about the marketing...it would be nice if every light did what the box claims...but exaggeration is hardly unique to Nitecore. And frankly, I don't see even a couple hundred lumen drop making it from the best thing ever into a second-rate product, which is what you seem to be implying. The human eye is not a good light meter, and 760 to 960 lumens is not an enormous difference. Noticeable, to be sure, but not worth getting so worked up about.



CelticCross74 said:


> I understand that the only Nitecores he works with is the Tiny Monster series and I have read that he would rather stay away from any of the regular mass produced Nitecores. Leaves me thinking Nitecores mass produced lights all just have cut rate everything when it comes to the actual electronics.



This is just not true. Vinh has worked on a ton of different Nitecore lights, including the SRT6 and SRT7. He stopped working on those particular lights because when he boosted current, sometimes he would fry the 5mm color LEDs. If you want it that bad, you should contact him by e-mail...just because he isn't making them in numbers, doesn't mean you can't work something out. In any case, Vinh choosing not to work on a particular model doesn't mean it is low quality, and choosing to work on it does not make it high quality, either. If you are so concerned with one person's opinion, why don't you ask Vinh what he thinks about the build quality? He has had a number of them opened up, and can give you a more informed opinion than most.

I'm also not sure what you mean by "mass-produced". You seem to be thinking that the TM-series is not mass-produced, while most other Nitecore lights are. The fact is that ALL of Nitecore's lights are mass-produced...and that is true of Eagletac, and Zebralight, and Armytek, and Ultrafire, and Surefire. The question is, what standards are maintained, not how it is produced.


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## Taz80

I still really like my SRT7 and use it often. I bought it because I wanted a magnetic ring light with more output and throw than my V20C. It does and I,m happy with it, I don't worry about the specs. so much as long as it does what I want. I don't like the plastic tactical rings either, I take them off and replace them with O-rings. The only tactical rings I like are the rubber type that are used on surefires and sunwayman T20 and T40 lights. I think that anyone looking for a magnetic ring light would be happy with the SRT7, as far as underperforming there really isn't that much difference between 800 and 900 lumens.


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## more_vampires

CelticCross74 said:


> Also I wish Nitecore would stop saying that the SRT6 and 7 can use standard CR123 cells. They can but the low voltage sensor goes nuts as soon as you turn on a SRT6 or 7 running on standard CR123's as the sensor cannot tell the difference between fresh 3v primary cells and a very depleted 18650 or RCR. Annoying as hell and a design flaw that sticks out like a sore thumb.



Why are you running the light on [email protected] (with a spacer I assume) when Nitecore says [email protected] when your not using 18650?
Page 1 of the manual: http://www.nitecore.com/UploadFile/Files/download/1-1_SRT7_UM_EN.pdf

Also, I've had more RMA with Eagletac than Nitecore.

Here's my list of Nitecore failures and nitpicks:
1. i4 Intellicharger lost 1 bay of 4.
End of list.

I think they're a good company. I like their stuff. NC Chameleon and Smilodon are the shizzle!


----------



## CelticCross74

No spacer. 2xCR123's powers the light just fine but the low voltage sensor cannot tell the difference between fresh 3v 123's and heavily depleted 3.7v 18650's and 16340's causing the low voltage sensor in the head to start flashing at full speed within a minute or two maybe less. The specs claim the light can use CR123 cells....there is just no forewarning about the low voltage led light going crazy because of the use of primary cells. 

Vinh has done tons of Nitecore lights? Okay I believe you I guess I just have not gone far enough back into his catalog. The only Nitecore lights I am aware of that he currently mods is the Tiny Monster series. The only non TM series Nitecore I am aware of him modding is a single SRT6. When he did that I have no clue I am just going by JMPauls IS results thread. Think Ill send Vinh an email and ask. Might as well try to end this BS quest about trying to get the lights to perform as advertised.

As for the gap between 780 lumens and 960 not being noticeable to each his own. To my eyes the jump in performance from running the light on 16340's alone is pretty drastic of an improvement. In my individual experience it has only been once a light hits the 1200+ lumen range that 100+ lumen gaps become pretty imperceptible. I could go on all day about how clearly my eyes see the differences in my many LED lights in the under 1000 lumen range. 

As for BS marketing claims and everybody does it I disagree. ALMOST everybody does it. Nitecore is notorious for BS specifications. Whenever a Nitcore light even comes anywhere near claimed specs I am amazed. Their new 2x18650 MT-G2 light (G36 I think?) has tested out here on the forum to be dead on manufacturer specs which is the first time I can recall ever having seen that happen with a Nitecore light. I dont believe they test the majority of their lights at all they just guess some specs and if the marketing dpt wants "sexier" numbers than what they actually get then that is what gets printed on the box. I am actually pretty impressed by the P12. Having tested out to over 900 OTF lumens here on the forum was pretty impressive coming out within 100 lumen of spec. 

Yes many makers inflate their claims and specs some more than others. Fenix has been pretty dead on on the other hand with their specs and claims over the years. If anything most Fenix lights I have seen come through the forum actually exceed manufacturer specs. My intro to being a flashaholic was with Fenix lights and I got used to them testing out to specs or better over the years. Olight has been pretty consistent as well. My problem is spending hard earned money on a light that is supposed to be able to do X Y and Z as the manufacturer claims only to end up maybe 3/4 the claimed performance. It is a big deal to me it obviously is not to some people but to each their own.

If most folks who bought the heavily hyped SRT7 are happy with what they got then that is fine they got what they paid for then. Then there are informed flashoholics like on this and other flashlight forums that are pretty damn unhappy about NOT getting what they paid for. Most CPFers have at least a small collection of decent LED lights to compare and contrast other lights to. I dont have a huge collection only roughly about 3 dozen. But I know which ones meet specs, which ones exceed specs and which ones fall short of specs and the couple that fall so short of specs I cannot help but investigate as to why that is. Surprise both the lights that fall into that last category are Nitecores the other light being the EA41. I really like the EA41 I think its an awesome light, to bad it also comes nowhere near claimed specs. 780 OTF lumens vs a claimed 1020 is pretty bad but I still use the light.

Perfect example of dealing with Nitecore personally-I emailed them several times trying to get new tactical rings to replace the ones the broke in half....I have yet to hear anything back from them on that issue at all and that all started over a year ago. The other day I emailed them asking about when the release date for the MH12 in the US was going to be......I received an email back from them in less than 24 hours. 

Call me bitter? Damn straight. I dont like being ripped off especially on my lights. Not as bitter about it now that I have had CPF as a resource. With the RCR upgrade I learned about here I actually use the SRT7 again it feels great to finally get real use out of it.

....now to email Vinh and offer him what I paid for the light just to modify it. I am willing to pay handsomely and willing to wait for months as I know Vinh is one busy guy...


----------



## thedoc007

CelticCross74 said:


> Vinh has done tons of Nitecore lights? Okay I believe you I guess I just have not gone far enough back into his catalog. The only Nitecore lights I am aware of that he currently mods is the Tiny Monster series. The only non TM series Nitecore I am aware of him modding is a single SRT6. When he did that I have no clue I am just going by JMPauls IS results thread. Think Ill send Vinh an email and ask. Might as well try to end this BS quest about trying to get the lights to perform as advertised.



Off the top of my head, he has worked on the SRT6, SRT7, P25, P12, TM36, HC90, Tube, TM11 - that is by no means an exhaustive list, but you get the idea. A wide variety of models, from throwers to flooders, from keychain to lumen monsters. 



CelticCross74 said:


> As for the gap between 780 lumens and 960 not being noticeable to each his own. To my eyes the jump in performance from running the light on 16340's alone is pretty drastic of an improvement. In my individual experience it has only been once a light hits the 1200+ lumen range that 100+ lumen gaps become pretty imperceptible. I could go on all day about how clearly my eyes see the differences in my many LED lights in the under 1000 lumen range.



If you are going to reference what I say, please quote me, or at least summarize it accurately. I did not say the difference was not noticeable, I said it wasn't a huge difference. The human eye is a terrible light meter, and a well-accepted rule of thumb is that it takes four times the brightness for a beam to appear twice as bright. Therefore a ~20-25% difference, like you describe with the SRT7, is fairly minor. Doesn't mean you can't tell the difference, and I never said that.



CelticCross74 said:


> As for BS marketing claims and everybody does it I disagree. ALMOST everybody does it. Nitecore is notorious for BS specifications.



Once again, you are referencing what I say, but inaccurately. I didn't say everybody exaggerates their claims...I merely said that the problem is not UNIQUE to Nitecore. And I totally disagree that every Nitecore is over-rated - some are, and some are not.



CelticCross74 said:


> Their new 2x18650 MT-G2 light (G36 I think?) has tested out here on the forum to be dead on manufacturer specs which is the first time I can recall ever having seen that happen with a Nitecore light.



I think you mean the P36?

Just because you don't recall it happening before, doesn't mean it hasn't happened. The TM11, TM26, Tube, have all been at or above the rated specs, for the most part. The TM36 was actually under-rated, especially the throw. Mine tested out way over 400kcd, as opposed to the 310kcd rating by Nitecore.

I'm not trying to apologize for Nitecore, they have had a number of models with unrealistic ratings, and quality control issues with some lights as well. I don't like that any more than you do. But you are doing the same thing that Nitecore sometimes does...exaggerating. Fighting false claims with more false claims of your own is not going to help the situation.


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## more_vampires

CelticCross74 said:


> 780 OTF lumens vs a claimed 1020 is pretty bad but I still use the light.



Easy, easy, there. Calm. It's cool. We're flashy people. Yes.

Around an 85% is not that outrageous when you blindly throw in emitter lumens versus OTF lumens. Even a crappy lens will ding the output more than you'd (possibly) believe. Throw in improper led centering and focus, then dogs become cats and we're fighting over cans of beans in the Zombie Apocalypse.

Yes, many (ahemchinaahem) makers make stuff. Somewhere between that and the eBay listing becomes ZOMG11billionlumenzZOMG!!!one!121!

Really. Crap components can really comprimise OTF lumens down to 85% or less.

There's already a thread open on this sort of topic. No maker of anything, anywhere is immune.


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## oKtosiTe

CelticCross74 said:


> No spacer. 2xCR123's powers the light just fine but the low voltage sensor cannot tell the difference between fresh 3v 123's and heavily depleted 3.7v 18650's and 16340's causing the low voltage sensor in the head to start flashing at full speed within a minute or two maybe less...



I still find this odd, since two CR123A’s in series put out 2x3=6V.


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## CelticCross74

time for me to stop hating on the SRT6 and 7. I do indeed love the actual smart ring interface the two lights have. That is correct, the low voltage LED in the heads of both lights start flashing full speed within a minute of turn on with fresh CR123's despite the light working fine. Just tried fresh CR123's in my 2015 P12 and the low voltage sensor is flashing at its full speed within a minute or less despite the light working fine. 

Done with my SRT7 rants. With new 16340s I enjoy using the light for the first time in a long time...now if I could only find a metal tactical ring to replace the plastic one that broke in half lol...


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## Beckler

Too bad 18340's don't seem to exist. Because 2xRCR123(16340) doesn't have much energy compared to 1x18650 3.4 Ah.


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## thedoc007

Beckler said:


> Too bad 18340's don't seem to exist. Because 2xRCR123(16340) doesn't have much energy compared to 1x18650 3.4 Ah.



You can get 18350s easily enough. Much better capacity than 16340, but still not as much capacity as a single 18650.


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## Beckler

thedoc007 said:


> You can get 18350s easily enough. Much better capacity than 16340, but still not as much capacity as a single 18650.



I wonder, would they fit SRT7? That's now 5mm longer than 18650. Also did a quick search, didn't see any reputable-brand ones; not sure I'm ready for Ultra/Trustfire junk.  AW IMR ones are only 800mAh.


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## thedoc007

Beckler said:


> I wonder, would they fit SRT7? That's now 5mm longer than 18650. Also did a quick search, didn't see any reputable-brand ones; not sure I'm ready for Ultra/Trustfire junk.  AW IMR ones are only 800mAh.



In theory, you are right. But since most protected 18650s are actually closer to 69mm, it isn't much of a stretch. I'm pretty sure they would work OK in the SRT7, mine has a little room to spare with 18650.

You can find Efest, Keeppower, AW, and Nitecore 18350s pretty easily. Check Illumination Supply and/or Mountain Electronics. Also Fasttech has SoShine 18350s...I have a bunch of their 18650s, and they work well.

No matter what, though, you are going to take a huge hit going from 18650 to a pair of smaller cells. Nothing to be done about that. Still, 18350s would give you higher capacity than 16340s.


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## InfinitusEquitas

18350's vary quite a bit in length however. For example protected keeppower ones are nearly 2mm longer vs AW 18350's... no harm in trying some light can accommodate them, some can't. For the SRT7 it's better to just go with an 18650 imho.


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## thedoc007

InfinitusEquitas said:


> For the SRT7 it's better to just go with an 18650 imho.



I agree completely. The difference in output is not even remotely worth the sacrifice you make in runtime, and using 2 x cells (of whatever type or size) is inherently riskier too. You also often get no warning at all when the cells are low. One second, you are OK, and the next second a circuit trips, and you get no output at all. Not ideal.


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## Taz80

Keeppower 18350 protected will be to long, they just barely fit with the protection circuit removed. AW and Efest IMR fit fine. With my SRT7 I find the difference between one and two batteries isn't really noticeable, unlike my RRT26 where it's very noticeable.


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## radiopej

My cousin saw my UC35 over the weekend and decided he wanted a USB rechargeable light. Messaged me yesterday telling me about all these cool lights that he has since found. He asks me about Nitecore and the SRT7, I tell him the people I organised some for loved theirs. He tells me he ordered one with a battery. 

Then this:
Me: Did you get a charger?
Him: For?
Me: Charging the battery
Him: It's USB rechargeable
Me: ... no it isn't
There's a delay of a few minutes where I just know he is Googling like nuts

I think he forgot what he was looking for. On the bright side, he has discovered there's a store 10 minutes from his office where he will pick up a VP2 and he has a lovely new SRT7 on the way.

He was so excited about his rechargeable torch.


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## T_zero

Hello

Anyone know where I can get the SRT7 tailcap ??

I'm not looking for the MTC1 model, I'm looking for the tailcap with ears.

Thanks


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## CelticCross74

good luck with getting a tail cap. Ive been trying to simply get a replacement cigar ring for my 7 for over a year. Best bet is to repair the one you already have.


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## ACruceSalus

June of 2014 I was looking to replace the same tail cap that you are looking for. At that time the Nitecore service department quoted me $13 including shipping. I elected not to do it. I don't know how much it would be now and whether [email protected] is still the place to inquire about it but you may want to give that a try.


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## gnolivos

*Nitecore SRT7 (XM-L2 White, 3xRGB - 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BE...*

Well I received my SRT7 AND it is a great light. It has a tighter hot spot than what I would have preferred, so the use indoors is rather limited for me. Have a m22 diffuser on its way. 

Anyway, I hope NiteCore follows this thread because the light could be perfected in some ways:
-Strobe mode is too fast. Also it is not throwing full lumens. I don't think this is as useful or effective as it could have been. 
-Cannot tail stand easily. It is actually not even possible if you attach the lanyard. 
-Cigar grip is extra cheap plastic. 
-I wish for a version of this light with more flood, or a zoom lens. 

Nice light. Love the beacon . Could be a life saver.


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## LAMPARITA

*Re: Nitecore SRT7 (XM-L2 White, 3xRGB - 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BE...*



gnolivos said:


> Well I received my SRT7 AND it is a great light. It has a tighter hot spot than what I would have preferred, so the use indoors is rather limited for me. Have a m22 diffuser on its way.
> 
> Anyway, I hope NiteCore follows this thread because the light could be perfected in some ways:
> -Strobe mode is too fast. Also it is not throwing full lumens. I don't think this is as useful or effective as it could have been.
> -Cannot tail stand easily. It is actually not even possible if you attach the lanyard.
> -Cigar grip is extra cheap plastic.
> -I wish for a version of this light with more flood, or a zoom lens.
> 
> Nice light. Love the beacon . Could be a life saver.


 
I completely agree when it comes to the SRT7 not throwing full lumens. I used both, a 18650 and CR123A/RCR and compared it to my Surefire P2X Fury (500 lms) and both lights have quite similar high-output, can't see any difference.


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## gnolivos

*Re: Nitecore SRT7 (XM-L2 White, 3xRGB - 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BE...*

Well to clarify, what I noticed was reduced lumens on the STROBE mode only. Full power it seemed consistent with my other ~1000 lumen lights.



LAMPARITA said:


> I completely agree when it comes to the SRT7 not throwing full lumens. I used both, a 18650 and CR123A/RCR and compared it to my Surefire P2X Fury (500 lms) and both lights have quite similar high-output, can't see any difference.


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## gnolivos

One thing I will admit, this light was larger than I anticipated.  I have also a smaller Nitecore MH20 on order... and was wondering:
Does anybody own these 2 lights, that can provide a brief comparison of the beam pattern? I'm hoping the MH20 is more floddy or same as SRT7. But NOT less!


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## CelticCross74

I have had the 7 since it came out and the MH20 since it came out. The pattern out of the 7 is a good width with a tight hot spot. MH20 pattern is impressively close to being as wide, MH20 hot spot is nearly twice as large. You should really like the MH20 mine is incredible. The two stage switch in the 20 takes a bit of getting used to but is well done. CD out of the 20 is advertised I believe at 12 or 12.5 k which is half the 7. In tests here on the forum it turned in an impressive 14k+ CD. The 20 is also thermally regulated which is awesome. My 20 and new MH27 are the most well designed and built NC's Ive used. For beam pattern with the 20 think P12 with a fatter hot spot, throws a touch further with a bit wider overall profile.


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## gnolivos

Thanks Celtic! This is the information I was looking for. Looks like the MH20 will serve me better for my particular use. Will be getting it next week, hope it is to my liking!

Btw, temperature/color differences? Warmer, colder? I ordered the Cool White Mh20. Same for the srt7 I think.


----------



## LAMPARITA

*Re: Nitecore SRT7 (XM-L2 White, 3xRGB - 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BE...*



gnolivos said:


> Well to clarify, what I noticed was reduced lumens on the STROBE mode only. Full power it seemed consistent with my other ~1000 lumen lights.



_The __SRT7 __ and the __P2X Fury (500 lms) also __have quite similar high-output on full power, not just STROBE. Can't see any difference at night._


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## CelticCross74

*Re: Nitecore SRT7 (XM-L2 White, 3xRGB - 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BE...*

color temp out of the 7 is very cool almost blue but even across the profile. MH20 CW is still cool but leaning back from the 7 as the 20 is a XML2 U2 the 7 is the older XML2 T6. MH20 hot spot is a bit warmer than that of the 7. As for there ever being a NW SRT7 I am not aware of that ever have happening. MH20 is far far easier to EDC than the 7....


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## selfbuilt

gnolivos said:


> One thing I will admit, this light was larger than I anticipated. I have also a smaller Nitecore MH20 on order... and was wondering:
> Does anybody own these 2 lights, that can provide a brief comparison of the beam pattern? I'm hoping the MH20 is more floddy or same as SRT7. But NOT less!


Standardized white wall beamshots are given in my MH20 review. You can directly compare them to the ones in this review. :wave:


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## T_zero

Hello.

I managed to put a Surefire ST07 pressure switch on the RSW1 tail cap.

it was like this:






ready to assembly:





final:











what do you think??

bye


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## CelticCross74

good job on the pressure switch! If that light combo does the trick for you then it does the trick. For a long gun Id use my TK32 and get the pressure switch for that as TK32 was designed to be mounted on a long gun and has a very well done 40k CD yet wide in diameter beam. 

Been following this thread since it was first published. I STILL swear by 2x16340 as the superior power source. To my eyes the 100 lumen increase also translates into better throw and beam definition as well but do admit to taking a hit in the run time dpt. I also run my SRT6 off of 2x16340 sources and got just as impressive a result in power increase and better beam definition. Im not certain but after having had both the SRT6 and 7 since they came out I am convinced that aside from the secondary LED design of the 7 that the main emitter electronics in both the 6 and the 7 are exactly the same.

I dream of a revamped SRT line....


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## Xiphex

I discovered a hidden mode on the SRT7. I nickname it 'Slow Strobe. To activate it, turn the SRT and set it between Turbo and Strobe. How safe it is on the flashlight and mechanics, I'm not sure.

Cool though.


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## CelticCross74

once again the SRT7 thread just will not die!!! I have now given my SRT7 to a friend in need of a good light. He freaking loves it. He also made the huge mistake of turning on the cop strobe mode at some guy that cut him off in traffic one night which got him pulled over by military police. Amazingly they did not take the light and let him off with a warning. I have this creeping feeling a SRT line revamp is coming soon the current line up is old tech now.....


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## TEMPA

Hi all,
I only recently discovered this light (I know.... I'm late to the party....) as I was first looking at the MH27 and that research lead me here. Now I am stuck in the no man's land of indecision between going for an MH27 or the SRT7. Looking for some opinions and guidance on this decision if possible please. It looks on the face of it that the SRT ring is more user friendly than the side buttons on the MH27 but I am happy to be convinced either way.
Thanks!


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## Taz80

The magnetic ring on the Srt7 is a great U.I., its still one of my favorite lights. I leave it in standby when I walk, because its a ring its always under your fingers, no feeling around for a button. Its also good with winter gloves on. If they upgrade this light I would get another in a heartbeat. On the other hand the up and down U.I. of the MH27 is nice, but its sometimes hard to find the buttons even harder with gloves on. The MH27 also throws more than twice as far and the colored leds are much brighter, which makes them more useful. I guess it comes down to which would be more useful to you, greater throw or a more user friendly U.I. When I go out on my walk tonight I'll have them both on me.


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## CelticCross74

The only advantage the SRT7 has on the MH27 is the control ring on the 7 is just superior to the multifunction UI buttons on the MH27. Aside from that the MH27 stomps the 7 in every category. MH27 is thermally regulated the SRT7 is timed. The MH27 has easily twice the throw range of the 7. With a good 18650 the SRT7 actually puts 780 lumens out the front. The MH27 is pretty close to being dead on advertised specs. The secondary colored LEDs in the MH27 are easily twice as bright than those on the 7. Of course the MH27 also features built in micro USB charging I never use it on my MH27 just takes to long but its nice to have that option. The grip ring on the 7 does not screw down. No matter how tightly you tighten the tail cap the cheap plastic grip ring is always very loose. The much higher quality grip ring on the MH27 does screw tightly down and is nice and solid feeling. Holster for the MH27 is a bit nicer than the one that comes with the 7. The SRT line is old tech now. As much as I love my SRT6 the line needs a revamp badly.


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## TEMPA

Thanks for the input guys. Certainly looks like the MH27 is the winner then. MH27 with the SRT control ring would be unbeatable by the sounds of it! I must admit I was leaning towards to the MH27 as it is the newer of the two but damn I like the idea and function of that control ring!


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## Glenn7

*Nitecore SRT7 (XM-L2 White, 3xRGB - 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BE...*

Yeah just waiting for SRT7GT....... Now that would be a winner!
But seriously I just bought a second srt7 for my wife as she loves hers so much and knows the UI so well. I was thinking of getting her an MH27 but I know she won't find the buttons in the dark as she uses it every day and night around the house and doesn't care if it puts out 780 or 1000 lumens, UI wins every time.

A couple of other lights I have had my eye on are Klarus RM10 has control ring and waterproof charge port, Klarus FH10 zoom to flood aspheric with a piston type switch in head that moves red green or white LEDs past optics, jetbeam RRT2-color red green blue with selector ring, and maybe Fenix TK32 red green blue but done by tail switch.


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## CelticCross74

*Re: Nitecore SRT7 (XM-L2 White, 3xRGB - 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BE...*

SRT7GT would be awesome. The control rings on both my SRT6 and 7 still work flawlessly and are a pleasure to use. RRT2 and TK32 colored emitters are literally half as bright as those of the MH27. Although still full of artifacts the MH27 colored beams are not as big a train wreck of artifacts as the 7.


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## Taz80

*Re: Nitecore SRT7 (XM-L2 White, 3xRGB - 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BE...*

If I had to choose between the SRT7 and the MH27, it would be the SRT7. For me the U.I. of the SRT7 trumps the extra throw and brighter colors of the MH27. The USB charging is a negative to me, as it just adds another potential failure point. Besides the grip ring and heat management the builds are pretty much the same, the tail caps are even interchangeable. It all comes down to how you are going to be using the light, maybe you should get both. SRT7GT:twothumbs


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## Glenn7

*Re: Nitecore SRT7 (XM-L2 White, 3xRGB - 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BE...*

thats good to know as I was interested in the brightness of these coloured leds - SRT7 is good enough for my wife, BTW her's has been dropped on concrete way too many times to count and looks beat up but all works like new - I was wondering on the brightness of that Klarus RM10 it says 240mW for the red leds. It's hard to know unless you see these lights in person.


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## Taz80

*Re: Nitecore SRT7 (XM-L2 White, 3xRGB - 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BE...*

I would have picked up the RM10, but whomever designed the U.I. must have been drinking that day. Putting the strobe between low white and red, really!! why would anyone do such a thing?


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## CelticCross74

*Re: Nitecore SRT7 (XM-L2 White, 3xRGB - 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BE...*

yuck that is a bad layout. If the MH27 had the magnetic control ring of the 7 it would be one of the last lights I buy for a long time. That being said the multi function switches on the MH27 are not horrible they do what they are supposed to do. I cant stand the police strobe out of either the 7 or the 27. Why is it there? Here it could easily get me into trouble with the law. A fourth colored emitter for say a yellow emitter would have been nice instead. As good as the 27 is the beam still has some artifacts around the edge of the profile from the secondary LED wells but they are not severe. Overall a great light.


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## SG Hall

Regarding the police strobe, I have a mate that is a policeman so I asked him if it's legal in Australia. It is as long as it is not mounted on the dashboard. Guess what lots of people do!


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## CelticCross74

use the police strobe in a car while driving here and its illegal does not matter if its mounted or not if it is on and you are driving you will get busted. Still a far more useful feature could have been in the place the police strobe is


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## williamcandra

One of the best light ever... Nite shall make SRT7GT instead of MH27


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## CelticCross74

oh NC will 100% come out with new SRT models just who knows when and what size and what kind of output will they have. Current SRT line is old tech now. Even though they remain strong sellers NC is 100% working on 4th gen smart ring technology. Vinh will not modify the SRT7 because he says whatever he does would end up blowing the secondary emitters. He has done the SRT6 before came out amazing.


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## 2moley

Bought one of these April last year.

1st one had an overheating fault and and a few months failed although was replaced swiftly.

My 2nd unit, the colours are still working but the white LED does not turn on at all.

First it needs a firm tap between hand and palm to go from minimal intensity to fill intensity and would remain so until the timedelay lowered the intensity. But once turned off this would repeat.

Anyone found similar faults and if so a fix?


FYI I'm a marine engineer using this torch daily, so it has had a hard life but I expected it to last longer.

cheers all


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## CelticCross74

take the light apart head tube and tail. Buy a can of DeOxit D100. If you cannot do that use rubbing alcohol. With either use Q tips and clean all the contact points from the tail to the exposed metal ends of the tube to the inside of the head itself. Also check the tightness of the ring in the tailcap. What battery are you using? Remember, with both the SRT6 and 7 2xsources ie 2x16340 or 2x18350 will give you a 100 lumen boost beam definition increases as well.


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