# few machine questions



## las3r (Dec 2, 2012)

hey guys i just have a question on threading..................how did u learn ?? im going to be getting a lathe in the next few months  i read that few people went with the PM1236 

i owned a mini lathe 9x19 but nothing as big as the PM1236 and im wanting to learn how too thread ect.....and dont no where to start ??? i have a small trades school near me is that something i should look to see if they do classes ?

and is there a lathe smaller than the PM1236 that can accept a MAG D body ???


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## ANeat (Dec 2, 2012)

I just learned from reading and trying years ago, The South Bend book how to run a Lathe is excellent in that regard.

These days I would recommend watching the videos from MrPete222 or Tubalcain on youtube. Not much better on a "how to"


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## gadget_lover (Dec 2, 2012)

I am also self taught. 

On thing to remember is that in just about every way, a 9x19 lathe will do the same things in the same way as a bigger one. Even a 7x10 will do the same kinds of operations. It's often a matter of depth of cut. A 7x10 lathe will trim a 3 inch diameter rod down to 1 inch if you need to. It will just take more passes than a 12x36 since it does not have the power to cut as deep.

Bigger lathes frequently have more features, but those features are implemented differently in each brand/model so you have to learn what works for the lathe you are using. Most of the features are not essential to the job, but do make the job easier or faster. 

I learned by reading this forum and by reading copiously. Eventually I found some good videos from MIT. That was a while back. Now you can find a ton of videos on youtube.

The biggest hurdle is to learn the jargon. Then you have to test to make sure you understand it. It took weeks for me to find out what direction the bit moves when 'facing', and then some more time to find out what surface of the bit actually cuts. Learn the vocabulary first and the rest will make a lot more sense.

The seconds biggest hurdle was understanding what tooling I should use. A 7x10 may use 1/4, inch, 3/8 or or 5/16 inch tools. Eventually I figured out how they work and that allowed me to use all three. If you buy a QCTP you can use a wide variety of tooling sizes. 

Learning by yourself is quite doable. You might not be as proficient as a professional, but you can definitely make precision parts.

Daniel


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## Tiresius (Dec 2, 2012)

This video is quite useful but to an extent. I took a look at it and was completely confused because that lathe has a *quick-change gearbox*.

Mines did not have that gearbox and have to manually change the gearing to obtain the thread pattern desired. What really helped me the most is three members here on the machining that contribute greatly:
Gadget Lover
wquilles
Precision Works

Refer to your booklet for threading...Mines allowed me to forward and reverse without engaging the half-nut lever.

Edit: And gadget lover beat me to the punch


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## 350xfire (Dec 3, 2012)

Quick Change Gear Boxes are the best!


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## las3r (Dec 3, 2012)

Thanks for the great info guys ill look into some books and vids on youtube,also I was looking into the PM1127LB but as I read the 1.5" bore can't fit a mag body in it  most of my work when I get the lathe will be on mags 

and on my 9x19 grizzly I don't like it sticking out of the chuck that fare,seams like u can't do much work like that


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## 350xfire (Dec 3, 2012)

Get a bull nosed live center and you can support the end while you thread it. This will allow you to thread the mag while it hangs out.


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## gadget_lover (Dec 3, 2012)

las3r said:


> I was looking into the PM1127LB but as I read the 1.5" bore can't fit a mag body in it  most of my work when I get the lathe will be on mags
> 
> and on my 9x19 grizzly I don't like it sticking out of the chuck that fare,seams like u can't do much work like that



I've said it before, but it bears repeating: Items larger than your headstock are routinely cut in the lathe. That's why they have tailstocks, steady rests, mandrels and other support tools. Virtually any work can be done on the outside of the mag using a live center in the tailstock to support the right hand side. 

Will has done some beautiful Mag work on an 8x12. He's posted a lot of threads about it.

But please don't let that dissuade you from getting a bigger-better-faster lathe. Bigger is often better.

Daniel


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## las3r (Dec 3, 2012)

Thanks Daniel ill do lil more reading the reviews on the PM1127lb and the PM1236 if I think the PM1127lb would work ok ill get it and save some extra cash for tooling


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## moderator007 (Dec 3, 2012)

Las3r, here is a similar thread on threading alot of good info there. Some of the best learning experiences I have is through trial and error. You never, never forget the really bad ones.


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## gadget_lover (Dec 3, 2012)

moderator007 said:


> Las3r, You never, never forget the really bad ones.




Wait till you get a bit older. I find that I can forget anything, good, bad, or planned. 


Daniel


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## precisionworks (Dec 3, 2012)

las3r said:


> ... the 1.5" bore can't fit a mag body in it


Pull out that dusty old checkbook & you'll easily find a 14" or 16" that will swallow Mag bodies all day long. New prices run $10k & up, good used machine for about half that. 

Or purchase a set of internal expanding arbors for about $100 ...


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## Gtamazing (Dec 3, 2012)

Cutting fine threads in soft material is pretty easy. I did an internal thread on my at home lathe. it was the first one I did on that machine and it went surprisingly well for being an old Chinese belt drive.


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## las3r (Dec 3, 2012)

Or purchase a set of internal expanding arbors for about $100


that would be nice so I don't damage the end of the mag body by the lathe jaws and would hold it in better


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## darkzero (Dec 3, 2012)

> las3r said:
> 
> 
> > is there a lathe smaller than the PM1236 that can accept a MAG D body ???
> ...



WillQ has probably posted this some where but even on the PM1236 a Mag D will not fit all the way through the spindle. It only fits through the nose of the spindle where the inside taper is. Both the PM1127LB & the PM1236 are listed as having a 1.5" spindle bore.

Mag D for reference.







This is the farthest it will fit on my spindle.






But most 6" chucks will swallow a Mag D allowing it to be worked on comfortably assuming you are not dealing with a long Mag such as a 6D. 


Same Mag D above with a 6.25" chuck.


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## vestureofblood (Dec 3, 2012)

Hi las3r,

The Tubalcain youtube vids are an excellent way to learn. Between that, a few tips from CPFers and some practice is how I learned to do it.

I 100% recomend getting a lathe big enough to throat the D mag ( if you can afford it). It can be done on the little guys but its much harder and carries a bigger risk to the finish.



precisionworks said:


> Pull out that dusty old checkbook & you'll easily find a 14" or 16" that will swallow Mag bodies all day long. New prices run $10k & up, good used machine for about half that.
> 
> Or purchase a set of internal expanding arbors for about $100 ...



Got any idea where I can find one for the Grizzly G4000? That looks like a great option.



darkzero said:


> Same Mag D above with a 6.25" chuck.



Thanks for sharing, I didnt realize that.


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## las3r (Dec 3, 2012)

What's the difference between the 1127LB and the 1236 ? Just power and few more options ? if that's the case ill go with the 1127 and use that extra money and buy tools needed 

few extra passes on my project won't kill me


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## darkzero (Dec 3, 2012)

las3r said:


> What's the difference between the 1127LB and the 1236 ? Just power and few more options ? if that's the case ill go with the 1127 and use that extra money and buy tools needed
> 
> few extra passes on my project won't kill me



I had originally purchased a 1127VF (the LB version wasn't available then) but it was not the spindle bore that changed my mind as I don't work on Mags. The number one reason for changing my decision was threading. I owned a HF814 & I hated changing gears between thread pitches & feed rates. Less then a year I out grew that lathe. The 1127VF has a gearbox but you still have to make gears changes between most pitches & feed rates. 

The cam lock spindle & ability to use a BXA tool post were also important factors. Chuck adapters for the 1127VF aren't readily available. Matt says he has them, but who else? I swap between three chucks somewhat often & it's so much nicer being able to quickly change the chuck & not affecting TIR much at all if anything. BXA size TP allows wider range of tool options. There were many times I had looked for tools that were not available in the 1/2" size & even if I got the shanks milled down to fit, rigidity was an issue. There's a reason why they do not make those tools for smaller lathes. Size, rigidity, & spindle power was also a plus, allows you to work faster. You can work on small stuff most of the time on a larger lathe but you can't work on larger things as easily on a small lathe. Having the 1236 now I know I would have out grew a 1127 as well. The 1236 will keep me happy for a very long time but I eventually would like a 14X one day. 

There are other little things that i'm glad I have but the things I mentioned is what set me over. Don't get me wrong, smaller lathes have their place, I learned alot on the HF814, & it was a great lathe. I miss it but it's not gone, it resides at my brother's house now. Maybe one day it will come back home so I can use it again. Space, noise, & power requirements were initially concerns for me but I'm glad I ignored them & went with the 1236.

With smaller lathes, some might have a feature I want but not have another. And another lathe vise versa. Looked around for quite sometime & it seems like the 1236 size is the smallest size available to have most of the features I wanted.

Check out the G4002. It's pretty much the same thing as a G4003 (12x36) but with a slightly shorter bed & smaller spindle bore than the PM1236. But for only a couple of hundred dollars more you could get the 12x36. WT's version of the 12x24 is comparable to the G4002 but with a slower spindle speed, less HP, but runs on 110V & is cheaper. Looks nice but I know nothing about the machines offered by WT, how their service/quality is, & how easy is it to get replacement parts. Everyone has a version of the 12x36 so replacement parts aren't much of an issue.


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## BVH (Dec 3, 2012)

I'll echo DZ's post above. I ordered the 1127 LB and a month or two later, changed it to the 1236. Glad I did. Twice the weight/more rigidity, BXA tooling, able to leap tall buildings in a single bound.


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## kuksul08 (Dec 4, 2012)

Someone posted this link before: http://www.discoverlivesteam.com/books/threads.pdf

It's very useful.


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## las3r (Dec 4, 2012)

kuksul08 said:


> Someone posted this link before: http://www.discoverlivesteam.com/books/threads.pdf
> 
> It's very useful.




Great link looks very Helpful, I think ill just go with the 1236 I don't want to outgrow the 1127LB down the road and more people is going with the 1236 and love it,


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## precisionworks (Dec 4, 2012)

The straight arbors (like the one in the 3-jaw chuck) are under $50 per set. Look closely at some of those in the wooden block & you'll see that the ends have been turned down to run a specific part. These can be turned down until they are all gone.

The 5C arbors (upper left) require a 5C collet chuck.

I never, ever grip any finished part in the jaws. Either an internal arbor (straight shank or 5C, depending on the part), a 5C collet or an external Delrin fixture is machined. 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/thirdwheelrider/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686


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## vestureofblood (Dec 4, 2012)

So for a D mag then I need a 1.5" turned down, or do you use an existing size for D/C maglites?

Are those made of HSS?


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## precisionworks (Dec 4, 2012)

I have zero Mag experience but 99% of the time the arbor to start with is the one that's over size by some amount. Turn it down about .001" under bore diameter & it's ready to go. They are not made of HSS but rather something like 12L14 which is very easy to machine.


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## vestureofblood (Dec 11, 2012)

Sweet, my arbors are on the way. Ebay seller thirdwheelrider sold me the exact pair I needed, gave me a great price on them, and they are made in the USA to boot!


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## las3r (Dec 11, 2012)

Nice post pics here once u get them, ill be ordering tons of things once I get my pm1236 lathe ordered


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## tripletap3 (Dec 13, 2012)

darkzero said:


> I had originally purchased a 1127VF (the LB version wasn't available then) but it was not the spindle bore that changed my mind as I don't work on Mags. The number one reason for changing my decision was threading. I owned a HF814 & I hated changing gears between thread pitches & feed rates. Less then a year I out grew that lathe. The 1127VF has a gearbox but you still have to make gears changes between most pitches & feed rates.
> 
> The cam lock spindle & ability to use a BXA tool post were also important factors. Chuck adapters for the 1127VF aren't readily available. Matt says he has them, but who else? I swap between three chucks somewhat often & it's so much nicer being able to quickly change the chuck & not affecting TIR much at all if anything. BXA size TP allows wider range of tool options. There were many times I had looked for tools that were not available in the 1/2" size & even if I got the shanks milled down to fit, rigidity was an issue. There's a reason why they do not make those tools for smaller lathes. Size, rigidity, & spindle power was also a plus, allows you to work faster. You can work on small stuff most of the time on a larger lathe but you can't work on larger things as easily on a small lathe. Having the 1236 now I know I would have out grew a 1127 as well. The 1236 will keep me happy for a very long time but I eventually would like a 14X one day.
> 
> ...



Darkzero and wquiles are a huge wealth of info on both of these machines. Probably the finest on the net! I too changed from the PM1127 to the PM1236. There were a few features on the Pm1127 that I didn't like such as the chuck mount and changing gears more often but I could live with it because it was what I had saved up and could afford. But after having one on order for almost 6 months I had stashed away more money on switched to the PM1236. Matt was great though the whole process but now I am into the 11th month and still no lathe. If I had made the decision to go the Pm1236 at first then I would be back in business by now. CAN NOT stress this enough.


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## las3r (Dec 13, 2012)

When it comes in and u don't want it ill buy it from ya  so I don't have to wait


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## tripletap3 (Dec 17, 2012)

las3r said:


> When it comes in and u don't want it ill buy it from ya  so I don't have to wait



Too Late my address label is already on it. Talked to Matt and it is ready to ship from QMT. It will go out today or tomarrow.


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## las3r (Dec 17, 2012)

Guess I'm to late  post pics once u receive it


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