# Introducing FluPIC V2.2 firmware - User Guide UP!



## goldserve (Jun 29, 2006)

In V2.2, I have incorporated a few changes. Some will be happy about it, some might not. Anyways, list of changes:

- PWM frequency 2 x of V2.1 (Might or might not help much with those people complaining)
- Strobe settings reduced to 9 from the 12 in V2.1 but it is able to go from 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 hertz
- Brightness settings reduced to 10 so each brightness level will be noticable compared to the old levels 15-20. The new ones correspond to the old ones by {1,2,3,5,7,9,11,14,17,20}
- Slowed down brightness adjustment mode
- Changed the way strobe is set (strobe, off, strobe, off...)
- Defaulted to 1s or 1000ms instead of the 800ms and 1200 ms option. (I can still take custom timeout requests for programming)
- Added a beacon mode and replaced all SOS with beacon in modes 2-4 but left SOS in mode 5. (Beacon is blink, pause 5 seconds, blink, pause 5 seconds...)
- Beacon mode linked to brightness level 2 so you can set the brightness of the beacon as well
- Finally, the SOS complies to the international standard. It is much slower but that's how it is. 1/3s on, 1/3 second off, 2 seconds between letters, 1 second for long, 3 second between s-o-s...










Cheers! That's it for now!

PS: ROM usage at 97% and RAM usage up to 86%. I can't fit anything else in...


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## mosport (Jun 29, 2006)

*Re: Introducing FluPIC V2.2 firmware*

Nice to see this evolution Kevin! Can't wait to try out the new firmware :thumbsup:


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## bombelman (Jun 29, 2006)

*Re: Introducing FluPIC V2.2 firmware*

COOL !! Great news Kev !!

EDIT: Beacon mode can give my ArcLS the capabilities of Arc4


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## Tom M (Jun 29, 2006)

*Re: Introducing FluPIC V2.2 firmware*

Is the micro OTP or reprogrammable? I have a Jil Intelli but would be interested in 2.2. Thanks!


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## goldserve (Jun 29, 2006)

*Re: Introducing FluPIC V2.2 firmware*

Yes, reporgrammable but I'd like to refrain from getting all these lights to reprogram because 

1. This is not my permant address and i'll be leaving in 1 month
2. Mail gets lost and I can not be responsible for all these lights coming to me. I say this but I usually feel sorry for lost items and make up somehow. I don't want a bunch of lost lights.


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## chanamasala (Jun 30, 2006)

*Re: Introducing FluPIC V2.2 firmware*

Does anybody know if you could mount 3 SXOH Lux 1s and run them with a FLuPIC on a 3.7v Li-on? And if so, would series or parallel be better?


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## goldserve (Jun 30, 2006)

*Re: Introducing FluPIC V2.2 firmware*

Parallel for sure. You should be able to drive all three to spec. Cheers!


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## Lips (Jun 30, 2006)

*Re: Introducing FluPIC V2.2 firmware*

Very nice work, Thanks


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## Planterz (Jun 30, 2006)

*Re: Introducing FluPIC V2.2 firmware*

The faster PWM pulsing makes a huge difference, IMO. Flicker is barely noticable in real-world use on low (level 5), and totally unnoticable unless you do the shakey thing in front of you on high (level 15). With the old, slower pulsing, the flicker would kinda bug me on low if I used it for walking around in the dark.


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## lightrod (Jun 30, 2006)

*Re: Introducing FluPIC V2.2 firmware*



Planterz said:


> The faster PWM pulsing makes a huge difference, IMO..... With the old, slower pulsing, the flicker would kinda bug me on low if I used it for walking around in the dark.


 
I am amazed that anyone can notice the flicker in normal use - I think your neurons fire a lot faster than mine! 

I actually have a lot of fun with the PWM, exploring the visual effect under different conditions (yes I am very easily amused).


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## goldserve (Jul 3, 2006)

Updated with user manuals. Please give your comments. Thanks!


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## chimo (Jul 3, 2006)

Kevin, great job on this revision! 

I think that you have made some excellent substitutions (10 vs 20 brightness levels), (Beacon vs SOS) and easier strobe setting. 

I even like the change to colour on your manual.  

Cheers,

Paul


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## goldserve (Jul 3, 2006)

Thanks!

The colour in the charts took the longest as i'm no artist =P


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## yazkaz (Jul 3, 2006)

GS, if you could provide the instruction guides in PDF form that would be better.


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## goldserve (Jul 3, 2006)

You could print out the images. Sorry, my computer is biting the dust so I will not install adobe pdf maker. I'll see if I can get my friend to do something...


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## Hondo (Jul 3, 2006)

:twothumbs goldserve! This upgrade includes everything on my wish list except closer low level spacing, as in {1,1.5,2,2.5,3,4...}. Maybe when more memory becomes available. I like the beacon idea, but that SOS could still be reached on mode 5. Now I am going to be forced to buy one of the next run of FF3's to get the new FluPIC   .


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## goldserve (Jul 3, 2006)

You could get doug to offer som UWOJ, Flupic V2.2 trade-up program or something like that =D

1, 1.5, 2.5 is not possible due to technical limitations. But you may find the low levels are slightly lower than the V2.1.


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## lightrod (Jul 4, 2006)

Hondo said:


> :twothumbs goldserve! This upgrade includes everything on my wish list except closer low level spacing, as in {1,1.5,2,2.5,3,4...}. Maybe when more memory becomes available. I like the beacon idea, but that SOS could still be reached on mode 5. Now I am going to be forced to buy one of the next run of FF3's to get the new FluPIC   .


 
FWIW use of a primary CR123 cell in this light gives the option to go dimmer. MUCH dimmer. I'm warming up to the idea myself! 

With those cells I like a "dim" level (e.g. level 2), and a general "working level" (level 8). Then you always have the max (level 20) that's certainly not 70 lumens but a very decent amount of light at maybe 25 lumens, and without runtime worry (which keeps me from running burst on the rechargables much anyway!).

I have no data whatsoever but bet that in addition to getting excellent runtimes on max (the light does not get warm at all), you'd get killer runtimes on low or mid. Possibly a more practical/useful setup by trading in short bursts of max output capability.


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## Hondo (Jul 4, 2006)

goldserve said:


> You could get doug to offer som UWOJ, Flupic V2.2 trade-up program or something like that =D
> 
> 1, 1.5, 2.5 is not possible due to technical limitations. But you may find the low levels are slightly lower than the V2.1.


 
No complaints here, and a little lower low end sounds good too. Upgrading is indeed a practical idea, but may conflict with the core CPF value I have followed so well - buy both!

lightrod, spot on! I was very impressed with the utility of a primary while waiting for my first battery to charge, and indeed this creates the additional low levels from my "wish list". I really only use burst to show off how bright my tiny light is to friends, so this is a practical solution for daily use. I would definitely go with a primary, for the killer run time, if taking my FF3 on a backpacking trip, where a spare is actually a burden. I am sure this alternative would work equally well on all FluPIC lights.


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## Cabo (Jul 4, 2006)

Is there a "blink locator" mode available or is the beacon mode the same thing more or less? Wish strobe frequencies were user adjustable or are they?


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## goldserve (Jul 4, 2006)

The brightness of the beacon is linked to user brightness 2 so it can be set up as a blink locator. Blink every 5 seconds.

The strobe is user adjustable from 2hertz all the way to 18 hertz in 2 hertz increments.


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## Toons (Jul 4, 2006)

Looks cool! 

Can't wait to try it.

:thumbsup: Toons


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## sflate (Jul 4, 2006)

Great upgrade to an already great driver. Nice work!!

Can the new firmware be used in a FluPIG?


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## goldserve (Jul 4, 2006)

Yes, the firmware can be used on a flupig but i'd scale down the pwm rate back to 1x just incase the other driver can't handle it.


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## lightrod (Jul 4, 2006)

Hondo said:


> .....I would definitely go with a primary, for the killer run time, if taking my FF3 on a backpacking trip, where a spare is actually a burden.....


 
Funny you'd mention that - the FF3 has become my light of choice in the woods / on the trail. And so far - by a long shot! Flood/throw combo and transition is great/natural looking, with a great/natural looking tint to me as well. :thumbsup: 

(BTW I'm a single cell guy...... hmmm...... I mean..... I'm actually a lot bigger than a cell, in fact I've got lots of cells, millions of them..... I'm digging a hole here so I'll stop....)


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## cave dave (Jul 4, 2006)

Wow, sounds great, Its nice when someone listens and incorporates the ideas presented on CPF.
I wonder if there will be a drop in replacement module for the FF3? I'll take one! 

That flicker does bother me on v2.1, and the rest of the changes sound like a nice refinement of an already good interface.


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## KDOG3 (Jul 4, 2006)

Ok, I'm an idiot. Whats' this for? What lights will this power....


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## marcdilnutt (Aug 1, 2006)

Can i run a lux v to about 750-1000mA with a flupic board? Would it be ok in that power range? marc


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## goldserve (Aug 1, 2006)

The flupic driver will not drive a luxV because the the max input is 5.5V.

Consider using a flupig PWM driver with a DD + resistored setup to drive the luxV.

Cheers!


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## vortechs (Aug 1, 2006)

goldserve said:


> The flupic driver will not drive a luxV because the the max input is 5.5V.



Hi goldserve, 

Did you ever get a chance to stress test the FLuPIC with 6V driving a K2?


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## goldserve (Aug 1, 2006)

I didn't get any K2s yet but I will try that when I get a chance!


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## marcdilnutt (Aug 1, 2006)

goldserve said:


> The flupic driver will not drive a luxV because the the max input is 5.5V.
> 
> Consider using a flupig PWM driver with a DD + resistored setup to drive the luxV.
> 
> Cheers!


I must have got my wires crossed, i thought the flupic was a boost driver. I think its worth a go as i wont be running at over 6 volts from 2 cr123. Unless you think the components would be damaged.


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## marcdilnutt (Aug 1, 2006)

goldserve said:


> I didn't get any K2s yet but I will try that when I get a chance!


You can have a couple of mine if you want, just drop me a pm with your address and i will put a couple in the post. marc


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## prasinos (Aug 5, 2006)

Great work goldserve!

Do you have any Q3 sized boards with the new firmware available for sale?


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## goldserve (Aug 6, 2006)

I am happy to say I have 50 Q3 boards in stock again. Cheers!


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## marcdilnutt (Aug 9, 2006)

Hi Goldserve,
Just to let you know that i havent forgotten about your leds, i couldnt get to the post office last week because i foolishly worked for about 80 hours but i will get them in the post at the weekend. Are there any of the sammie sized boards available with the new firmware?
marc


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## goldserve (Aug 9, 2006)

marcdilnutt said:


> Hi Goldserve,
> Just to let you know that i havent forgotten about your leds, i couldnt get to the post office last week because i foolishly worked for about 80 hours but i will get them in the post at the weekend. Are there any of the sammie sized boards available with the new firmware?
> marc



Sure...you can sammie sized boards with new firmware.


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## TranquillityBase (Feb 19, 2007)

I'm lost in FluPIC land...


I have a standard LE, red Lux led, and a Rev. 4 FluPIC...This is all it will do;

1 OFF

2 LOW

3 FAST BEACON

4 MED

5 SLOW BEACON

6 OFF

7 SOS

8 2 BLINKS, then nothing.

It started out with BURST in the number 1 spot...now I can't seem to get it back to that mode, and I can't find any user guide that matches what I have now.....HELP.... 

Thanks,

TB


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## bombelman (Feb 19, 2007)

So TB, clicking once gives [low], clicking twice [fast beacon], etc.. ?
So unless you have a custom interface, I suspect you have a v2.2 firmware
because there are 2 different strobe-frequencies (beacon & strobe).

However, if you say it "once" started with burst at the first click, it could only
have been you once set high-bightness to a low-level function, or maybe
have a custom interface...

Aanyway, assuming you are not in UI1 (default), try clicking 8 times to
switch from UI, e.g. go back to UI1, or UI2...

Hope this helps, if not, you could always send it in an assembled Ti body to me 
(not that you would be getting it back.... )

More info about the different interfaces shown here:

Firmware v2.1:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/88623

Firmware v2.2:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/123520


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## vortechs (Feb 24, 2007)

goldserve said:


> - Brightness settings reduced to 10 so each brightness level will be noticable compared to the old levels 15-20. The new ones correspond to the old ones by {1,2,3,5,7,9,11,14,17,20}
> - Slowed down brightness adjustment mode



Can anybody tell me how long (in seconds) it takes the "Set User Brightness" setting to cycle from min to max brightness in the V2.2 FLuPIC firmware?


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## bombelman (Feb 24, 2007)

vortechs said:


> Can anybody tell me how long (in seconds) it takes the "Set User Brightness" setting to cycle from min to max brightness in the V2.2 FLuPIC firmware?



I think it stays a second or something on each level, and then goes on to the next all the way to max, then goes back to low... 
So maybe 10 secs more or less from Dimmest to Max...

The steps are different from previous firmware but it works quite good.


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## KDOG3 (Feb 24, 2007)

Are there any boards with this interface that will fit right into the G&P 1W & 3W modules?


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## bombelman (Feb 24, 2007)

Can you post pics of you light or can you provide exact measurements for the G&P modules ? 

Board sizes currently being sold are:
0.42" 1.2mm thick
0.55" 0.6mm thick
0.55" 1.6mm thick
0.60" 0.9mm thick
0.60" 1.2mm thick
0.77" 1.2mm thick

(Source: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1341098&postcount=1)


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## KDOG3 (Feb 24, 2007)

Well I can't measure thickness since I don't want to take them apart (yet) but they seem to be 18mm wide and have a negative contact edge/ring around the outside edge.


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## KDOG3 (Feb 25, 2007)

Bump, I'm tempted to try one of these. I think I could make an adaptor to make it fit. I am a complete NOOB when it comes to these things. How do you program them? Do they require a separate ground wire or will contact with the heasink suffice?


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## bombelman (Feb 25, 2007)

KDOG3 said:


> Bump, I'm tempted to try one of these. I think I could make an adaptor to make it fit. I am a complete NOOB when it comes to these things. How do you program them? Do they require a separate ground wire or will contact with the heasink suffice?


That will depend on the sink you use.
It has a "ground ring" but also had a ground-contact. Either will do..

Pic showing the outher ground-ring on the bottom side:
(can be soldered on to also )


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## goldserve (Feb 25, 2007)

My agent here is correct. The flupic system uses a common ground with LED -'ve so if your heatsink is connected to the body and the body of the flashlight is ground, all you need to do is make connection to the heatsink and led-
ve also to the heatsink.


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## KDOG3 (Feb 25, 2007)

Ok, so let me get this straight. You change modes by turning on/off less than a second correct? And I tell you what programming I want and you program it for me, correct? I'm thinking of going Interface 5, but not sure yet.
Do you have to go thru all the settings to get to Off, or just wait more than a second and tap the button? This will be probably going in a Surefire C2 Centurion.


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## bombelman (Feb 25, 2007)

KDOG3 said:


> Ok, so let me get this straight. You change modes by turning on/off less than a second correct? And I tell you what programming I want and you program it for me, correct? I'm thinking of going Interface 5, but not sure yet.
> Do you have to go thru all the settings to get to Off, or just wait more than a second and tap the button? This will be probably going in a Surefire C2 Centurion.


May I ?  
You can have all 5 interfaces programmed. You can switch to use any interface. (read on)
Given you have an on/off clicky and given light is set at UI1 now.
Your light is [off]. 
Click once [on] it will be on [Level1].
If you click your light [off] the light will turn off.
If you click twice, like [on]-[off]-[on] within a second, the light will be on [Level2].

If you want to use UI5, click 5 times [on], with no more then 1 sec paise between [on]clicks and you will get a series of flashes.
Flash 1 - UI1
Flash 2 - UI2
...
...
Flash 5 - UI5
This is where you click [off] your light and it is now saved to turn on on UI5 the next time you use it...

My advice, get it, play with it, you'll love it... :rock:


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## bombelman (Feb 25, 2007)

May I ? 

You can have all 5UIs on the board
and switch to them whenever you want. (read on).

Given you have a clicky-switch (click on, clock off)
and given you have the light on UI1 now.

Your light is [off] and you click it [on] once;
Light turns [on] on [Level1]
Click again (to off), light will turn off and "reset".
Next time you turn it on, same story.

Now, if you click twice, like [on]-[off]-[on]
and the [on]-clicks being no more then 1 sec apart,
the light will be on [Level2].
Click again for [off] and light will turn off and reset.

Click 5 times in UI1 [on]-[off]-[on]-[off]-[on]-[off]-[on]
and it will flash 5 options:
1 Flash - UI1
2 Flash - UI2
3 Flash - UI3
4 Flash - UI4
5 Flash - UI5

If you let go (click off) after any number of flashes,
you light will be in that mode. So if you let go after
5 flashes, you're in UI5 

My advice, get a FluPIC, play with it and fall in love with it.

:lolsign:

Cheers mate !


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## bombelman (Feb 25, 2007)

WOW... My browser (read: CPF) crashed after writing the whole story once !!
I checked to see if it had posted and is was not there....

I rewrote the whole stuff again... Sorry for the "double" post... Not my fault...
Find any differences ? lol


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## KDOG3 (Feb 25, 2007)

Hmmm. Well I would be using the standard Z41 twisty/momentary push on tailcap. So if I press once and let go, it won't stay on in whatever mode I leave it? So lets say I want to get to the third setting in a given interface. I would press the button 3 times on/off ( each time less than a sec) and then have to hold the button down to stay in a particular mode, or could I release the button and it would stay on in that mode?


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## doc_felixander (Feb 25, 2007)

no, it'll go off. the best switch type for this purpose is a reverse clicky in my opinion.


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## nein166 (Feb 25, 2007)

KDOG3 you've just about got it. yes 3 quick momentary pushes and click the third will stay on in third level. Now if you were to do 3 momentary pushes and not hold on the third for more than 1 second the chip remembers your about to go to 4th level. It doesn't matter how long its off. So lets say your in Mode 5 (Tactical) 3, 1/2 second pushes and off, now when you click on (or push) and you'll be at User brightness Level 1. See the chart.

Doc I totally dissagree reverse clickies are real tough to get a momentary push out of and momentary pushes are how you get through the levels not on/off clicks


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## nein166 (Feb 25, 2007)

Sorry kdog3 didnt read your z41 is an original non clicky

So you'd need to push and twist to keep the level on
Or twist on/off/on/off/on it works but not as easy like the Fenix twisties.
I couldnt stand it I love clickies see my Kooter modded P1D-CE in my sigline


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## KDOG3 (Feb 26, 2007)

Well If I have to get a Z58 clickie, then I will. I just want to understand this correctly before I jump into it. Now how are the current levels set. By the maker? Will the current levels be the same throughout all interfaces? I'm probably going to go with 850 for max, 450 for Med/Primary and 100 for low.


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## KDOG3 (Feb 26, 2007)

Wow, this thing has alot of features. You guys need to make a "FluPIC for Dummies" guide for people like me. Where do we order the new 2.2 version from?

And just to clarify, I don't need a separate (third) ground wire and long as the negative contact ring/side is making contact with the heatsink/module body, correct? 

Just got home from midnight shift so I'm gonna take a nap and check back later. I might order one then....


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## goldserve (Feb 26, 2007)

Order here:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/112678

Basically any size flupic board for $20 + $3 shipping. Cheers!


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## Nake (Feb 26, 2007)

KDOG3 said:


> You guys need to make a "FluPIC for Dummies" guide for people like me.


 
Here's one.

http://www.cones-stuff.co.uk/FluPIC%20JIL%20DD.htm


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## KDOG3 (Feb 26, 2007)

But again, how are the current output levels set? I'm ready to order just need to clear a few things up.


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## hank (Feb 26, 2007)

I'm really enjoying mine (mod by Mosport); got another coming.

I hope eventually to put the User Guide into a format that I can read on my Clie PDA screen so I don't have to carry around these sheets of paper all the time (grin) .... 

For anyone _not_ seeing the User Guide, it's two very colorful pages -- I have Firefox defaulted not to display all images; I had to View Source for the first posting in the thread to find the paths, then permit them specifically. It's the two 'imageshack' URLs.


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## KDOG3 (Feb 26, 2007)

If get one, I'm going to make a business card sized "cheat sheet" and laminate it.


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## DaveL (Feb 26, 2007)

goldserve said:


> The flupic driver will not drive a luxV because the the max input is 5.5V.
> 
> Consider using a flupig PWM driver with a DD + resistored setup to drive the luxV.
> 
> Cheers!


Thanks for all your work! Could you explain that a little more to me? I'm trying to replace the guts on my Nuwai alx352l (2x 3v lithium, luxV) that bit the dust. I know what PWM is, what's DD? Also, are you talking about using a fixed resistor?


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## goldserve (Feb 26, 2007)

Sorry, I don't make the flupigs anymore. Not an option anymore. Mod that nuwai to use a seoul led and use 17650 li-ion =D SWEET


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## KDOG3 (Feb 26, 2007)

Goldserve PM incoming...


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## DaveL (Feb 27, 2007)

goldserve said:


> Sorry, I don't make the flupigs anymore. Not an option anymore. Mod that nuwai to use a seoul led and use 17650 li-ion =D SWEET


THanks for the reply! OK, how would that be done?


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## goldserve (Feb 27, 2007)

Just a regular flupic board like the 0.77" one, buy a battery from AW and change the led to a seoul. Might have to tweak the reflector to make a nice beam pattern. This would be a nice mod and good to get your hands into..


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## cmaylodm (Feb 28, 2007)

edit - problem solved, user error


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## bombelman (Feb 28, 2007)

DaveL said:


> THanks for the reply! OK, how would that be done?


A 17670 cell has about the same sice as 2xCR123 and will provide you
with 1600mA of Juice @ 3.6volts.

The Seoul will run excellent on a FluPIC driven by such a cell.
For 90+ lumens, you only need to drive 350mA to the emitter
and that will give you at least 2 hours of runtime...

Cheers !


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## DaveL (Feb 28, 2007)

bombelman said:


> A 17670 cell has about the same sice as 2xCR123 and will provide you
> with 1600mA of Juice @ 3.6volts.
> 
> The Seoul will run excellent on a FluPIC driven by such a cell.
> ...


Hmm. The original specs with 2 cr123's were 115 lumens at full blast (though who knows how accurate that was), but I guess 90 is better than nothing! Will such a setup run on cr123's?


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## chadwide (Mar 1, 2007)

Hey Goldserve, would the FluPic be alright on 4 Nimh AAs?


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## Tronic (Mar 1, 2007)

chadwide said:


> Hey Goldserve, would the FluPic be alright on 4 Nimh AAs?


Hi chadwide, 

This would be alright. See this post from Goldserve:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1048226&postcount=15


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## Long John (Mar 1, 2007)

I think, this post is obsolete, since he canceled his recommendation for 2xCR123 cells.
4xnimh cells will come with nearly 6Volts out of the charger and so far I know, the Flupic can handle up to 5Volts.
To be sure wait until Goldserve will confirm the possibility.

Best regards

_____
Tom


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## goldserve (Mar 1, 2007)

I would put 3 x 1.5V to be safe but i think the cells will sag a little if you put 6V. Aren't nimh cells rated at 1.2V anyways? I'd give it a try!


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## chadwide (Mar 1, 2007)

How about a small resistor? Theres plenty of room in the light. Any idea what value?


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## Long John (Mar 1, 2007)

chadwide said:


> How about a small resistor? Theres plenty of room in the light. Any idea what value?



Resistor will work. 
Take a look here:

http://www.metku.net/index.html?path=mods/ledcalc/index

Best regards

_____
Tom


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## cmaylodm (Mar 1, 2007)

With a freshly charged (4.2v) 14500 Li-Ion rechargable cell and a USWOI binned SSC P4, I am reading a 1.09A draw from the battery on level 10, and a 1.19A draw from the battery on maximum. Did I hit the LDO lottery, or is there something funky going on here? It's hard to see any difference between level 10 and maximum without having a lux meter at hand.

With a battery at 3.96v, I see a draw of 0.8A at level 10 and a draw of 0.85A at maximum. Any idea as to whats happening here?


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## goldserve (Mar 1, 2007)

I guess because of the high vf of the ssc, all you'll get is 1A . If you get a H vf ssc, maybe you can get 1.2A at burst.


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## pmath (Mar 1, 2007)

Four fully charged NiMHs run very close to 5 V when freshly charged. Running into a TV1J, well heat sinked, I have found the FluPIC gets a bit challenged. Switches on and of jumps modes and generally dispalys signs of extreme unhappiness. 

But once it cools down it seems OK again. 

Three fully charged 4500 mAh NIMHs also get it grumpy, unless it is on the bike and very well cooled.

I love the FLUpic and am producing bicycle lights with a single TV1J and using a 6 AA cell pack (2x3 in parallel) can guarantee enough good light for a whole overnight event (road). 

I love the FluPICs and Kevins customised interface is really sweet.

Peter.



Long John said:


> I think, this post is obsolete, since he canceled his recommendation for 2xCR123 cells.
> 4xnimh cells will come with nearly 6Volts out of the charger and so far I know, the Flupic can handle up to 5Volts.
> To be sure wait until Goldserve will confirm the possibility.
> 
> ...


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## goldserve (Mar 1, 2007)

Really...it is not supposed to get upset like that. Can anyone else confirm? Maybe heatsinking the board, especially the LDO regulators.


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## cmaylodm (Mar 2, 2007)

goldserve said:


> I guess because of the high vf of the ssc, all you'll get is 1A . If you get a H vf ssc, maybe you can get 1.2A at burst.




I guess I should rephrase my question. I understand that once the battery dies down below the Vf of the LED that the current will drop, however, I do not understand why level 10 is drawing ~1A from a fresh 14500. I thought level 10 was one LDO running at 100%, which should be 600-700mA.


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## martonic (Mar 3, 2007)

Hi Goldserve, awesome stuff!

I got a light with one of these recently and it's very cool. Only pocket light I've got with "really low" as well as "really bright" and something in the middle too!

The only thing I don't get is, how do you set the strobe rate? In the diagrams for modes 1 thru 5, there is no "SET STROBE" box anywhere, so ?


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## Nake (Mar 3, 2007)

It's in mode 5 at the bottom. If you're using another mode, you have to change to 5, set strobe, then go back to where you were.


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## martonic (Mar 3, 2007)

Nake said:


> It's in mode 5 at the bottom. If you're using another mode, you have to change to 5, set strobe, then go back to where you were.


Aha - missed it - thank you!


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## cage (Mar 3, 2007)

Just for curiosity's sake. Is the electrical circuit schematic of this thing available anywhere?


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## bombelman (Mar 3, 2007)

cmaylodm said:


> I guess I should rephrase my question. I understand that once the battery dies down below the Vf of the LED that the current will drop, however, I do not understand why level 10 is drawing ~1A from a fresh 14500. I thought level 10 was one LDO running at 100%, which should be 600-700mA.


I think the LDO's can be 500 and up to 600 maybe...
Expect bursts in the 1~1.2amps...

Don't think schemetica will be released, however, it's not that difficult to find how the stuff is cinnected I think ?

Cheers !


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## KDOG3 (Mar 3, 2007)

Ok, I *WILL* be ordering one Thursday depending on the answers to the following questions. I would like the following configuration programmed, with NO other Interfaces in the firmware if possible: (It will be a modified Interface 5)

Strobe - 8Hz
Max - 1000mah ( I will be using USWOH bin Seoul P4 - can they handle an amp? If not, set to 900mah for safety's sake)
Primary (Level 2) - 500mah
Low (Level 1) - 100mah
SOS
Beacon

In that order. Now for some questions.

Whats LDO?

Do you recommend gooping the Arctic Silver all over it before installing into the heatsink, or will it be ok by itself?

What current level does the SOS and Beacon run at? Level 2?

Hows' the regulation? By that I mean if you could chart the output curve would it be nice and flat? I'm really only concerned with the Primary setting, since I realize Max is going to be really hard on the batteries anyway.

Am I annoying everyone yet?


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## goldserve (Mar 3, 2007)

These boards are not current regulated so I can't just set 500ma and 100ma.

I don't think this board is for you if you want to run primaries. There is a much more simple board Piglet that will be current regulated but only two levels. For primary usage, I suggest 50ma and 500ma or something like that. You won't get the 1A burst though.


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## KDOG3 (Mar 3, 2007)

Argh. Well thanks for the input. I guess I'll look for another driver board for my needs...


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## pmath (Mar 4, 2007)

I have my FluPics recessed into the back of the al slug which acts as heat sink for the TV1J. The slug is about 25mm diameter and 18mm deep. It has several holes for fixings and routing of leads.

How tight a fit should it be? How close can the components on the board be to the body of the sink? I assume they should not touch? 

I've just made a couple of new ones up. Will try to post pics tonight.

My riding mates love them!

Peter.


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## Gannz (May 1, 2007)

Has this flow chart been updated? On interface 4 mine has option 6 to "set brightness" and option 7 is "set strobe".


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## goldserve (May 1, 2007)

I have updated the interface slighty and will post the new charts.


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## hank (May 3, 2007)

Let us know when the new charts are posted? Or, if that's the only change, I'll cut'n'paste my own.

I still haven't gotten the chart reduced to a small text file, which I need to do, unless someone else has already taken the trouble. Like wallet card sized, or PDA-screen-sized. My memory's not what it ... er ... what was I saying?


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## weedle256 (May 19, 2007)

Alright... new to the FluPIC...

How do I set the user brightness level 1 & 2?

From what I can tell it works like this:
1) enter set user brightness 1
2) wait for it to step through all level 1 (up and back down)
3) light enters user brightness level 2 setup
4) let go when the level is right - user brightness level 2 is now set
5) enter set user brightness 1
6) let go when the level is right

In english this means you 'set level 2 first, then set level 1'

Do I have this right??


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## bombelman (May 19, 2007)

In set brightness level mode, it bill blink once, indicating you are setting for low.
Once it steps in brightness, you turn it off at the desired level.

The same is true for when it blinks twice, you cen set a med/high level.

This can also be switched, putting a higher level at the first blink...


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## KrisP (Jun 28, 2007)

Quick question... I have ordered a SOB 1000 step down converter with 1A output to put in a Maglite to run a single Cree Q2, will the Flupic work with this or is 1A as the highest setting too high? If 1A is too high what is the max current this will accept as the highest setting? I could order a lower current converter if required.


Thanks


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## Gatsby (Oct 5, 2007)

Interesting functionality. About the only thing I can see that would be nice if for a mode like default mode where it remembers the last mode and max brightness is also available (Bacially mode one with memory)...


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## worldedit (Feb 13, 2008)

Does anyone know how efficient the beacon mode is? I read the HDS runs for years on beacon mode. I like this feature, so i programmed my lightflux to do it. Had it 2 weeks in my pocket blinking and the next time i used it the battery was dry. Id like to know if this driver does better.


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## PhotonAddict (Feb 14, 2008)

Post deleted.. my mistake..


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## easilyled (Aug 24, 2008)

I think its a pity that for Interface 3 (the one with memory), there is no maximum (burst) level.

I like being able to get to burst level and ideally would like to lock onto 3 levels (a bit like the GDuP)
ie. level one, level two, burst.

I'm using Interface 1 because burst is available there, but alas there's no memory on IF1.

So its a case of either having to sacrifice burst, or sacrifice memory, 
neither of which I really want to do.


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## Aepoc (Jun 27, 2012)

Where have you gone Goldserve?


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## BenChiew (Nov 18, 2012)

Are you still operating?


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## mcbrat (Nov 19, 2014)

does anyone have the V2.2 programming charts? I only have the old charts, and it doesn't show how to get into user brightness levels (1-10)for Low and High.


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## Nake (Nov 19, 2014)

Go here, about a 1/3 of the way down. http://milkyspit.com/kb/


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## mcbrat (Nov 19, 2014)

thank you! I had figured out it was in spot 7, but this will allow me to really dial it in!


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## kaichu dento (Nov 19, 2014)

I expect the answer to my question to be no, but just in case, is there any way to reprogram the FluPic in a Modmag Draco? I'd love to have the flash between modes disappear and to have the levels spaced further apart, especially the low being much lower.


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## Roboholic (Nov 19, 2014)

I am also looking for someone to do some work on a couple of lights. One flupic is dead and the other I would like to update the led


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