# Maratac AAA Q5 (Part 3)



## Patriot (Jul 24, 2009)

*Continued from **Part 1** and **Part 2*







Photo provided by Guyon





Photo provided by djshiner



*Ceiling bounce results (high)*

*Maratac AAA*
*Duracell Alkaline 12.6 lux*
*Energizer NiMH 13.1 lux*
*Energizer L91 16.9 lux*
*Ultrafire 10440 30.2 lux*


*Added:*
*LDO1 Q5 10440 29.2 lux*
*LOD Q4 10440 27.1 lux*


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## DM51 (Aug 17, 2009)

Part 2 was >400 posts, so it is continued here.


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## Tixx (Aug 17, 2009)

On the ITP versions, do both regular and upgrade versions have a shorter head on them than the Maratacs? Thanks!


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## Patriot (Aug 17, 2009)

Thanks DM51.






> *tixx
> *On the ITP versions, do both regular and upgrade versions have a shorter head on them than the Maratacs? Thanks!




GoingGear, recently verified in his sales thread that the upgrade version has a longer head by 3-4mm, so if you want the shortest version you'll have to get the single stage.


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## oronocova (Aug 17, 2009)

I just recieved my ITP single mode, against my Maratac AAA in Natural it is probably 3-4mm shorter overall, 2mm if you discount the keyring lug. I really like the Single mode on a L92, it's going to make a great work light, just clip it on the side of my leatherman sheat and never know it's there.


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## Woods Walker (Aug 17, 2009)

I should get the 3-mode ITP soon. Is it easy to remove the clip without messing up the finish? I am not a big clip fan and looking to place the light on a paracord loop.


Edit Just checked out a Youtube video and the clip just pops off.


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## StandardBattery (Aug 17, 2009)

Tixx said:


> On the ITP versions, do both regular and upgrade versions have a shorter head on them than the Maratacs? Thanks!


 
No only the Single Mode "Standard" iTP has the shorter head.


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## KDOG3 (Aug 17, 2009)

I just ordered 2 more black ones. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a lottery winner....


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## leukos (Aug 18, 2009)

I just ordered the new stainless steel version for a mere $6 more: http://www.countycomm.com/aaastainless.html


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## leon2245 (Aug 18, 2009)

You twist the head once for medium, then twist it off & twist it on again for low, & twist it like that three times for high?


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## EXCALIBUR1 (Aug 18, 2009)

leon2245 said:


> You twist the head once for medium, then twist it off & twist it on again for low, & twist it like that three times for high?


Roger that procedure, except just twist on once for medium, twist off/on for low, and twist off/on for high.


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## iandh (Aug 18, 2009)

Can any Fenix LD01 and Maratec AAA owners confirm that the LD01 does/doesn't have longer throw than the Maratec, as mentioned in the second one of these threads?

The longer throw would be a bonus to me... I just picked up a stainless LD01 to replace my tired P1 yesterday, and I am kicking myself in the rear now that I've seen this light.... I need some excuse not to be mad I didn't get this awesome little light instead.


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## Patriot (Aug 18, 2009)

leukos said:


> I just ordered the new stainless steel version for a mere $6 more: http://www.countycomm.com/aaastainless.html




You'll love the stainless leukos. The machining and knurling is very nicely done. The bead blast is nice but if you remove and install the pocket clip often it will show marks. The threads are nice but seem to like something a bit heavier than nyogel. I've been using a dap of lithium grease.


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## Lynx_Arc (Aug 18, 2009)

does the meratac have an attachment point for split ring or lanyard without using the clip?


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## coyote (Aug 18, 2009)

Lynx_Arc said:


> does the meratac have an attachment point for split ring or lanyard without using the clip?



no. and if both are removed it leaves sharp edges where the cuts are. i had to use an o-ring in the rear groove to keep from feeling the edges.


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## Lynx_Arc (Aug 18, 2009)

coyote said:


> no. and if both are removed it leaves sharp edges where the cuts are. i had to use an o-ring in the rear groove to keep from feeling the edges.


thanks for the info. I am curious to how well the matte SS finish stays after abuse on a keychain or in a pocket full of stuff for a few months. A shiny SS finish hides scratches and can be polished but bead blasted seems like less of a step up from anodized natural aluminum. I can imagine a nice big shiny scratch on one showing up and ruining the look of it.


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## Alaric Darconville (Aug 18, 2009)

Now, if they would only make it in brass!


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## sabre7 (Aug 18, 2009)

Lynx_Arc said:


> thanks for the info. I am curious to how well the matte SS finish stays after abuse on a keychain or in a pocket full of stuff for a few months. A shiny SS finish hides scratches and can be polished but bead blasted seems like less of a step up from anodized natural aluminum. I can imagine a nice big shiny scratch on one showing up and ruining the look of it.



Good point, never thought about that :thinking:


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## BRO (Aug 18, 2009)

iandh said:


> Can any Fenix LD01 and Maratec AAA owners confirm that the LD01 does/doesn't have longer throw than the Maratec, as mentioned in the second one of these threads?
> 
> The longer throw would be a bonus to me... I just picked up a stainless LD01 to replace my tired P1 yesterday, and I am kicking myself in the rear now that I've seen this light.... I need some excuse not to be mad I didn't get this awesome little light instead.



Is there anything wrong with your LD01? Mine is terrific, but I do have a SS Maratac on order to compare. It is going to have to be very good to replace my LD01. The key ring set up on the Maratac has me a little concerned because it looks like a weak point for key chain pocket carry. In the mean time the LD01 is one heck of a light regardless of how good the Maratac is. But time keeps no secret, so we shall see.


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## Lynx_Arc (Aug 18, 2009)

IMO the only two things the LD01 doesn't have the meratac does is a low low mode and cheaper price. I would love the 50 hour low mode myself and am waiting to see if someone figures out how to swap the circuits between the two of them the LD01 would be perfect. I find the low mode almost useless it is like a low medium.


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## iandh (Aug 18, 2009)

Well, my main gripe is the low mode, but fortunately I use mostly medium and sometimes high.

The keychain attachment does look like a possible miss, so we'll just have to see what happens. I work in a machine shop and am a pretty spiffy tig welder, so I may attach a tiny eyelet to the back of the light if I do end up getting one.

I like the LD01, it's just that this light is smaller, has some mean knurling, and has a superior low setting. If the LD01 has higher throw though, that is my preference.


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## Vikas Sontakke (Aug 18, 2009)

Do they have constant current or only boost converter? Does Fenix LD01 come with constant current converter?


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## Rexlion (Aug 18, 2009)

Lynx_Arc said:


> does the meratac have an attachment point for split ring or lanyard without using the clip?


The pocket clip, or the split-ring clip? The Maratac comes with two separate clips. Either or both can be removed, but some have commented that their split-ring clip broke upon removal, apparently it can't take much bending. (But if it isn't messed with, it seems plenty strong to support the light on a keychain or lanyard... as shown by someone early on who hung something like 40 pounds off of it.)

You don't find a low low useful? I think it's great for navigating around a dark house at night, especially for entering the bedroom without waking my wife. I even used it for illuminating the road ahead of me when walking in a dark campground... it was all the light I needed and I didn't want to totally spoil my night vision. It's odd, I spend all this money buying super bright LEDs and then I enjoy using LOW. Go figure... 

PS, if you want to come over and see mine, you can... PM for directions and stuff.


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## zozo (Aug 18, 2009)

I've got a SS LD01 and a natural Maratac AAA. They're really different lights. The LD01 is definitely a better thrower, has a tight hotspot, and screams sturdy construction. However, the low is at best a misnomer, and overall battery life is surprisingly short (esp. with the low mode).

The natural Maratac is more floody, has a wider hotspot that blends more into the whatever you call the not hotspot part of the beam. It's got a terrific low and really nice battery life on the lower levels. The high on mine is a little less bright than the high on my LD01, but not much. The keychain attachment is really flimsy and generally unpleasant. It has little prongs that stick out and snag pockets (and lips when mouth-holding). I took my keychain ring off and am happier with it, but have no way to attach it to anything now.

The LD01 is a superior flashlight in terms of general construction and finish. But it's not that much better--certainly not $40 better. 

I still haven't decided which is going to become the final EDC for me. I'm going back and forth. They really are different lights, and neither is an ideal replacement for the other.


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## BRO (Aug 18, 2009)

ZOZO, for me the difference between the SS Maratac and the SS LD01 was only $14.00. I had to pay the 9.25% tax on the Maratac and for some reason they charged me 8.00 to ship it, coming out to $38.+. By the way, the shipping is only 150 miles or so from my house for the Maratac.

In contrast, I paid $23.42 from Battery Junction for an upgraded ITP EOS and that included a $3.95 shipping charge all the way across the country. I am hoping the ITP comes out in SS down the road and if it does I will order it for evaluation. 

When I receive the SS Maratac if it cannot out do my LD01 it will become a good xmas present for someone in my family. My LD01 is a proven key chain performer and it's replacement has to be better than it's equal.


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## zozo (Aug 18, 2009)

That's going to be a tough comparison. I can't speak for the SS Maratac, but my natural Maratac, much as I'm impressed by its value is not better than the SS LD01. My LD01 really is a thing of beauty.

Another thing I forgot to mention. The PWM in the Maratac is pretty pronounced. The higher frequency PWM in the LD01 is significantly better, but that may also account for some of the lower battery life.


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## iandh (Aug 18, 2009)

zozo said:


> I've got a SS LD01 and a natural Maratac AAA. They're really different lights. The LD01 is definitely a better thrower, has a tight hotspot, and screams sturdy construction. However, the low is at best a misnomer, and overall battery life is surprisingly short (esp. with the low mode).
> 
> The natural Maratac is more floody, has a wider hotspot that blends more into the whatever you call the not hotspot part of the beam. It's got a terrific low and really nice battery life on the lower levels. The high on mine is a little less bright than the high on my LD01, but not much. The keychain attachment is really flimsy and generally unpleasant. It has little prongs that stick out and snag pockets (and lips when mouth-holding). I took my keychain ring off and am happier with it, but have no way to attach it to anything now.
> 
> ...


 
Thanks for the post.

I got the LD01 for $46 shipped from ebay BNIB, so it was actually only $10 more for the LD01 than for the stainless Maratec ($36 shipped).

I'll probably end up getting a Maratec anyways even though I don't need two EDC lights, I suppose my least favorite of the two goes to the GF (girlfriend), or the GB (glovebox).


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## Patriot (Aug 18, 2009)

zozo said:


> I've got a SS LD01 and a natural Maratac AAA. They're really different lights. The LD01 is definitely a better thrower, has a tight hotspot, and screams sturdy construction. However, the low is at best a misnomer, and overall battery life is surprisingly short (esp. with the low mode).




My SS with, which has the same reflector as the black Maratac, gives slightly higher readings on the light meter than the LDO1 despite the OP reflector. I this this is due to two reasons. First the XP-E emitter is smaller, and secondly because the Maratac's reflector is a bit larger, as least compared to the LOD Q4. I don't have the LDO1 since that got passed on to my brother. 

Here are the figures I got while at about a yard.

Maratac SS 13,800
LDO1 13,200
LOD Q4 12,100
Maratac nat. 11,400

Additionally, I like the Maratac because of it's lower low, knurling and overall lower price. Many of us asked for the LOD to be knurled for quite a while with no response. It's great to finally have an option to the Fenix. Unless they do something to radically improve the LDO1 in the areas that matter to me most, I don't forsee purchasing another LDO1 in it's current design. Nevertheless, both are great lights depending on preferences.


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## BRO (Aug 18, 2009)

Patriot, was your LD01 SS or aluminum? With the readings indicated, can the naked eye tell the difference in real world between those numbers?


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## Patriot (Aug 19, 2009)

BRO, mine was black aluminum but same LED and reflector as the SS. No, it's really not that apparent to the naked eye at all. Actually, the natural HA light with its floody beam almost seems to be the brightest light of all while inside of the house. Outdoors the SS version and LDO1 seems a bit brighter.


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## iandh (Aug 19, 2009)

Screw it, I'm just gonna buy the SS Maratac, tape it to my SS LD01, and EDC the whole ugly bunch!


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## applevision (Aug 19, 2009)

iandh said:


> Screw it, I'm just gonna buy the SS Maratac, tape it to my SS LD01, and EDC the whole ugly bunch!



:laughing: 

Literally *hundreds* *and hundreds *of posts (396 in the first post, 409 in the second post, and so far 31 in here = 836, but who's counting!) on this little beauty, but I think *iandh*'s post says it all! There is something magical about the little lights, the EDCs that become part of us; I am most interested in this aspect of flashaholism. I also am torn about which to carry... but I have to say, the Nat Aluminum is so light, so lovely... it really makes my keychain feel so much more manageable than when the SS LD01 was on there... so it kind of kills me to add weight with the SS... Ah, the joys!


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## Robocop (Aug 19, 2009)

I am really not sure how strong the key chain part of this light is however I will say that I believe the design is really well done. It is not permanent and allows for both pocket clip carry and or keychain....or simply remove it all for a slimmer profile in the pocket.

I think it is one of the better qualities of the light that make it unique and different. I am curious why so many feel the design is weak as after owning 3 of these I really feel it is just fine for daily keychain carry. I never really put that much stress on my small keychain lights and in day to day usage would probably not come close to the failure point of the clip anyway. 

I did give my 3rd one as a gift to a friend who manages an animal shelter and makes frequent trips outside at night. I made a break-away neck lanyard and gave her a few Lithium AAA cells and she says thus far the light has been perfect for her needs.

She did say during one of her trips a large dog in the shelter kept jumping up on her and his claws snagged the clip. She was advising me of this to say the lanyard did what it was designed to do and simply broke away. She picked it up and clipped it together and said the light and clip remained secure. Sure the keychain clip seems a little thin however they are really not designed to hold much weight anyway....and this little AAA light does not have much weight as is.


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## oronocova (Aug 19, 2009)

I too like the keychain attachment. I don't use it but it came in handy the other day. I had to go through a metal detector and before I got there I put it on the ring with my keys. I figured that might make it a little more obvious or at least be less likely to raise any questions if it just looked like part of a keychain. I'm sure they looked at the items on a keychain too (I hope they did) but it seemed like a good idea at the time.


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## f22shift (Aug 19, 2009)

i like the keychain attachment to. specifically because i'm assuming it's not made of aluminium(or is it?). the hole in the ld01 would just wear bigger and bigger til i assume it falls off.
there seems to be no wear but i guess time will tell.


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## davidt1 (Aug 19, 2009)

Isn't it liberating to break away from those big and heavy lights and carry something so light and small you hardly notice it's there? It's small and light enough to put in my wallet. How is that for small and light? Since I also use it as a headlamp, the tiny size and feather weigh make the light unnoticed on my head. I am going to buy the black version so I can keep one in my pocket and one in the wallet as a backup.

Still hoping they will make an aa version of this light.


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## Neill_Currie (Aug 19, 2009)

Took the keyring nub off of my EOS today. See a side-by-side with the Maratac here: http://blogericious.blogspot.com/2009/08/maratac-and-itp-eos-aaa-flashlights.html

Sorry about the poor pic. My camera won't focus down close enough.


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## Patriot (Aug 19, 2009)

Looks good. Did you just grind it off and then paint the exposed metal?


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## Neill_Currie (Aug 19, 2009)

Patriot said:


> Looks good. Did you just grind it off and then paint the exposed metal?



It's highly polished. Doesn't show in the pic.
Used a dremel with an emery board arbor, then 2 different grades of emery paper, final polish with Mother's.


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## MKLight (Aug 19, 2009)

I just received my 2 Maratac AAA SS' today. I took one out of the bag and polished it with a Dremel and some Simichrome. Before polishing, I took off the black pocket clip and key chain clip. I polished the light up to a nice shine. I even did the threads which didn't really need it, but made it smoother. This would happen over time anyway. Unfortunately, the key chain clip expanded. When I tried to gently unstretch it, it broke in half. I still have the clip...and the other light (which is still in its sealed, pink in-color, bag.

Other than that, other things I noticed were that it is very small for a AAA light. There is some haze under the AR coated lens (some sort of moisture) - it seems to have the coating on it, although it doesn't have a discernible tint (yellow, reddish, green or blue). The threads are good, but a little thinner in wall size versus the Fenix LD01 SS - shouldn't be a problem, but I did see a picture online here (http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2865756840103197293PmKrZN) that may say otherwise...I don't know. The knurling is very nice. It fits well in your hand and can easily be turned on and off with one hand. Kudos to County Comm, Maratac (is Maratac owned by County Comm?), and ITP! Very nice. :twothumbs

Pics here:
Trying to learn how to do close-ups better...





A little better close-up here...maybe...? 




Not so good here...especially with the broken clip...:shakehead




The unopened light with a few extra toys...




and the light by itself...more or less...





Take care,
MK


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## Flying Turtle (Aug 19, 2009)

Nice work, Neill. 

Geoff


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## slipe (Aug 19, 2009)

Both of my lanyard clips came off fine, although one required a search of the other side of the room where it landed.

How is heat conduction with SS? It seems that would be important if using a 10440 in the light.


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## Illumenaughty (Aug 19, 2009)

just picked my black one out of the dryer
It went through a 2 hour wash cycle.
I can not tell any difference.......


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## Patriot (Aug 19, 2009)

MKLight, yours looked so nice that I had to go do the same thing! :twothumbs

I even copied your keyboard shot..... you>:whoopin:<me. 

Sorry, couldn't resist. 









I didn't spend long on it, perhaps 20 minutes are so. Next time I'll do it in proper light polishing procedure with sand paper first.


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## dandism (Aug 19, 2009)

Illumenaughty said:


> just picked my black one out of the dryer
> It went through a 2 hour wash cycle.
> I can not tell any difference.......


 Maybe you need a better washer :laughing:


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## Patriot (Aug 19, 2009)

slipe said:


> How is heat conduction with SS? It seems that would be important if using a 10440 in the light.



I don't really know how to measure this but since the light gets hot very rapidly, I suspect that it pretty good.


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## flasherByNight (Aug 19, 2009)

MKLight said:


> Trying to learn how to do close-ups better...



Are you using "macro"?
*old dell 8500 I see


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## jabe1 (Aug 19, 2009)

I just got my 10440s... this little thing is stupid bright!! :devil:


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## MKLight (Aug 19, 2009)

Patriot said:


> MKLight, yours looked so nice that I had to go do the same thing! :twothumbs
> 
> I even copied your keyboard shot..... you>:whoopin:<me.
> 
> ...



Patriot - lol. Looks GREEEAAATTT to me! I agree, I should have used sand paper first, too. Oh well...next time  And it didn't take long at all. Maybe 20 minutes, like you said.




Patriot said:


> I don't really know how to measure this but since the light gets hot very rapidly, I suspect that it pretty good.



Just as soon as soon as I read this, I took a fresh 10440 and put it in. I turned it on high. It's been on for about 5 minutes now and I don't notice any heat. The temperature is about 80 degrees Fahrenheit and the overhead ceiling fan is on and creating a slight breeze. Its not any warmer than if I just turned it on...although it has noticeably dimmed.




flasherByNight said:


> Are you using "macro"?
> *old dell 8500 I see



Actually a 600m...and yest...old! lol :ironic: I upgraded to 2GB of RAM and use an external hard drive to back everything up...

I am using "macro." I've played around with the white balance a bit, but it doesn't seem to help. I need to read up online and/or take a class to refresh my skills...or lack thereof! 

Back on topic...the more I play with this light, the more I like it! Thanks Patriot for pushing me over the edge. I almost bought the Aluminum versions and had them in my shopping cart...but safely didn't pull the trigger. Right when I saw the SS model...I ordered a couple right away. It took a week to get here. I wish I was living back in AZ, then it would have only taken 2-3 days! :thumbsup:


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## KDOG3 (Aug 19, 2009)

Wow, those polished ones look fantastic! I wonder if that could be done to the aluminum ones.


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## iandh (Aug 19, 2009)

STOP posting these polished SS Maratec pics you JERKS! 

I just finished convincing myself that I was satisfied with sticking to my SS LD01, then you start posting all that garbage! :shakehead



I'm going to contact admin and tell him to IP block me from CPF so that I don't end up broke and single living under an overpass, resting my head on a pillowcase full of flashlights...


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## Patriot (Aug 19, 2009)

...lol. That's funny you guys.

Sorry to report that I have to post a couple more pics though for a different reason.

I removed the C-clip from my SS light to do some minor polishing and I decided to leave it off. I noticed that there were some sharp corners at the C-clip detents which I did soften up a bit with sand paper. Still, the light had and unfinished look to is so decided to find and o-ring to fit the groove back there. 



The perfect size turned out to be the #60 which I picked up a Ace Hardware.





Here is a picture showing the C-clip, original spare o-ring (for head) and the #60 that I just picked up and installed (fat one)





Alternately, someone would use a glow ring if they desired and so you'd want to use one that's 7/16ths.

The o-ring is nice because you don't feel any of the rough edges or get it caught on fabrics.


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## Woods Walker (Aug 19, 2009)

I got the ITP 3-mode from battery junction today. I was happy with the dealer as being from my home state shipping was fast and got a free button cell keychain light with the order.  Faced the usual long wait until dark to test it. The LED is centered and the tint a bit on the cool side but totally acceptable. About the same as the S2 and it has a very nice creamy white tint. I hate and fear **** green tint and this didn’t happen.  The LED looks small and has a nice beam. The threads are nice. Not sloppy and no gritty feeling. Came lubed I think but added a bit more Silicone grease after the customary alcohol pad contact cleaning. Not sure if the glass is coated but don’t care. The size is spooky small. Even smaller than the E01. I think the battery overhang when loading has something to do with the size but don’t know.

I tested it against my Leatherman S2 (LOD-Q2-Q4) using an Energizer 900 mAh NiMH fresh off the charger. The S2 has a greater flood beam that is apparent in the woods however the ITP beam is darn nice too and this light has some throw. Never thought I would use 1xAAA and throw in the same sentence. Come to think of it never believed I would be walking in the woods with two 1XAAA flashlight doing a comparison. CPF can really mess with your head.  The low seems a bit brighter than 1.5 lumens. The only light I have to compare is my ZL H501 and H50 for a true low. Somehow I feel the ITP low is around 3-lumens but how the heck would I know. Anyways it is a nice low that works very well. I could even hike with it when night adjusted and on a wider part of the trail. A nice low is something that my S2 and my friend’s LOD-Q4 lacks. It is very bright and kind of shocking considering the light’s size when used in a pitch black field. Brighter than the S2 even when the greater flood is taken into account per my eye. Also there is no indicator hum as is the case with the S2. But to be fair the S2 needs to be almost in my ear to hear it.

I removed the key chain, metal ring and clip. I think the extras are heavier than the light. I am going to add some Kevlar line for a loop and toss on a small lanyard as the crazy small size makes me think I will drop it as this happened already. The extra O-rings are nice. Possible concerns are the thin AL walls and heat. The light gets hot fast on high but not so much when held and in motion. The light is good enough that I am considering a SS Maratac as SS is much stronger than Al and with such a small light the weight really shouldn’t be an issue. The ITP and guessing Maratac seem nearly custom made for my Jak strap head band. This would allow use as a backup camp headlamp just in case my ZL fails.


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## sabre7 (Aug 19, 2009)

The polished SS looks excellent! Is there any way to get the same great polished finish without using a dremel or other mechanical device?


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## Patriot (Aug 19, 2009)

sabre7 said:


> The polished SS looks excellent! Is there any way to get the same great polished finish without using a dremel or other mechanical device?



Yeah but the corners will take more time. The good part is that it will look even better than polishing with the dremel alone.

Start with 400 grit sand paper (go easy), then 600, then 800 grit. Depending on how much shine you want to can go to 1200 grit, or finish it with some #0000 steel wool. This will probably take a good 1-2 hours to do right in total.


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## CaNo (Aug 20, 2009)

Patriot said:


>


 
Wow, the SS version is actually pretty nice looking! This pic makes me want to get one now! :kewlpics: (*pic) lol


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## ichoderso (Aug 20, 2009)

Hi all, I own a maratac AAA and this is a great light, and now I think, I must have this ITP EOS too who is the best place to buy a ITP EOS light with shipping to Germany??
Jens


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## ergotelis (Aug 20, 2009)

ichoderso said:


> Hi all, I own a maratac AAA and this is a great light, and now I think, I must have this ITP EOS too who is the best place to buy a ITP EOS light with shipping to Germany??
> Jens



Shiningbeam, i guess you know him. Believe it or not, it took 3 days after placing the order to come to Crete/Greece from US!(i guess that if you are in Germany you might know Crete)
Needless to say it is wonderful!


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## banana_clip (Aug 20, 2009)

I got the aluminum model and you guys got me convinced to get the stainless model too. It looks great!!


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## DaFABRICATA (Aug 20, 2009)

I knew these were small but didn't fully realize just how small they were until I actually had it in my hand.....(thats what she said)

I have the HA and SS versions...suprised at the heft of the SS version!
Great lights for the price!

Can't wait till night to actually use them.


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## slipe (Aug 20, 2009)

These numbers are about average for several references I found:
heat transfer coefficient
• Stainless steel - 21 W/mK
• Aluminum - 221 W/mK

One thing SS has going for it is that sandblasted it radiates about half as much heat as HA III, which is pretty good. Polished it radiates only about 20% as much.

*MKLight*’s experience with the light not even getting warm after 5 minutes would give me pause. The light is producing the heat unless something is wrong with it. 

I just put my black Maratac under a fan about two feet away blowing directly on it – much more than a light breeze. After two minutes on high (10440s) it was warm approaching hot. Not nearly as hot as it gets in still air, but it was quite warm. Most of the cooling is obviously from conduction since it is greater than in still air. But the HA III is also radiating more heat. I wouldn’t be comfortable running a polished SS for five minutes on high with 10440s knowing all that heat was being trapped inside. I’m not comfortable running my black model for more than a couple of minutes on high with both better conduction and emissivity.

I don’t think I would polish a SS Maratac and put 10440s in it. But not being a certified flashaholic I think of a light as a tool.

This is an interesting read: http://www.molalla.net/~leeper/coatbar.htm 

I take issue with his saying high solids white paint has the same emissivity as black within a percent. Unless he has found a white paint he can put beside something black in the sun and get just as hot he is violating a basic law of thermodynamics. Kirchhoff's law says emissivity equals absorptivity.


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## Patriot (Aug 20, 2009)

*Slipe,* I can't speak for *MKLight's *experience but I can demonstrate with an instrument that the idea of SS Maratac supposedly "not getting warm" isn't the case. 

SS
start temperature 79F
1 minute 85F
2 minutes 89F
3 minutes 93F
4 minutes 97F
5 minutes 100F

Nat HA
start temperature 81F
1 minute 88F
2 minutes 93F
3 minutes 99F
4 minutes 102F
5 minutes 104F 

This test was done with a 10440 on medium, while sitting on the desk. These readings are nearly identical to what I recorded before I polished the light. Besides, the light is 75% covered with knurling so sanding down the micro abrasion left by the bead blasting just isn't going to have much of an effect if any In any case, as you can see by the numbers, the difference in material doesn't play an extraordinary role in this case.


All of this thermodynamic information is great but it's not representative of how we typically use these lights, as we're usually hold them on our hand. This keeps them cool enough that we don't have to worry much about the issue of heat to begin with. If we're using the light on high with a 10440, we shouldn't be worried about the heat, we should instead be worried about the cell. Two minutes of high on the 10440 is really placing a load on the cell. I would personally keep under a minute if you're doing this regularly. I use a "beater" cell when doing my testing.


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## slipe (Aug 20, 2009)

Mine gets pretty hot in my hand on high – maybe I have poor circulation. It seems that is still a function of conductivity.

Maybe the SS is easier on the battery by retaining a little more heat.


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## SkunkWerx (Aug 20, 2009)

Recived my Maratac-AAA and the 9290-AA in the mail. Happy light day!

I like both of these lights quite a bit. Will probably go for the SS version of the AAA soon now that I can see the AL in person.
Here they are pictured with the Fenix E01 for a visual comparison.


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## StandardBattery (Aug 20, 2009)

The SS Version is quite impressive, and those polished ones look great. I guess everyone needs 2 so that they can polish one of them.

The Driver Pill is the new design like the iTP Extended/Enhanced light, where the PCB is flush with the top of the pill and knotched into the pill. No indents at the edge of the pill for assembly/disassembly, need to use holes in PCB. This is actually good because standard tools will work better, so if they did not seal it too tight we should be able to open them. I have not opened mine yet.

The weight is really nice, but I also like the light aluminum one for shirt pocket and ultimate light weight travel.

*Electrical Issue:* I do seem to be having some electrical issues with my SS, and I can't put my finger on it yet. Cleaning seemed to make it worse. I'm beginning to think it is some coating or contact issue with the spring in the bottom. Assemble the light and if it works it stays working. Disassembling (completely open) and reassemble, if it does not work then only completely opening and closing the light seems to get it working again. Very Very Strange. So don't panic if the light is DOA, it may not be DOA.


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## Patriot (Aug 20, 2009)

That 9290 looks ginormous for an AA light! What they need to do is make a AA version of the AAA light. Funny how small the Maratac is, even next to the EO1.


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## MKLight (Aug 20, 2009)

I will have to more tests. I fully charged the 3 10440's I have and only 1 actually fully works. One was dead off the charger and the other doesn't seem much better. The third seems fine. I'll have to get more 10440's. I've always been told I have asbestos hands, so I don't feel heat all that much. I guess I'm also more used to the tiny lights that get very HOT!!! I love my Lummi Raws, but on high, they can get so hot in your hand you have to put it down and/or turn it off...the latter being what I usually do...


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## sabre7 (Aug 20, 2009)

Just received the iTP EOS 3 mode natural and did a quick comparison with my Maratac natural. The EOS came lubed, and has a darker, equally durable looking finish, but is much more slippery compared to the aggressive knurling on the Maratac. The pocket clip is the same on both models. They seem to be the exact same length & diameter except for the split ring nub on the EOS. The Maratac tail is a larger diameter than the EOS. The EOS split ring hole is very small, and cannot accept split rings much larger than the rather thin one it comes with, no room to bore it out larger, but seems thick enough not to wear through. There is no smooth recessed area for reversing the clip on the EOS like there is on the Maratac. 

Emitter on EOS is centered, slightly cooler tint than Maratac, but both have very nice white tints. EOS has the "shinier" OP reflector that has been reported on the black Maratacs. Both seem to be very close in brightness on all 3 levels in ceiling bounce tests, but EOS hotspot is more pronounced, probably because of the reflector, making it seem slightly brighter and capable of more throw.


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## Woods Walker (Aug 20, 2009)

Yea the reflector in the Black 3-mode ITP seems like the black Maratac photos I have seen here. The back of the box says highly water resistant but didn't give anything more than that. The O-ring is smaller than the E01 but the threads came lubed and seem well done so guessing it would be dunkable for sure. Also they could have done without the crazy key chain in my view. It is larger than the light.:laughing:

Still looking for those cool runtime charts. With the interest in the light someone is going to do it.

edit. It does have good throw in my view.


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## DaFABRICATA (Aug 20, 2009)

StandardBattery said:


> *Electrical Issue:* I do seem to be having some electrical issues with my SS, and I can't put my finger on it yet. Cleaning seemed to make it worse. I'm beginning to think it is some coating or contact issue with the spring in the bottom. Assemble the light and if it works it stays working. Disassembling (completely open) and reassemble, if it does not work then only completely opening and closing the light seems to get it working again. Very Very Strange. So don't panic if the light is DOA, it may not be DOA.


 



I'm having the exact same issue...except when I clean the threads and reinstall the head it works correctly.
I was going to give the SS one to my brother because he is hard on his tools. 
I'm going to keep it and give him the HA version so he doesn't complain about the issue.
I hope there is a way to fix this...:ironic:


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## sabre7 (Aug 20, 2009)

Yes EOS has more throw than Maratac.


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## Woods Walker (Aug 20, 2009)

sabre7 said:


> Yes EOS has more throw than Maratac.


 
Yea I was night hiking today and seen some glowing eyes. Had the Rebel EOS headlamp on high but couldn't make out the critter. Guessed it was a deer based on the hight but well yea know how it is. Took out the ITP for kicks and was able to make out the animal's shape. So out threw my headlamp. Kinda happy with the light.


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## MKLight (Aug 20, 2009)

MKLight said:


> I will have to more tests. I fully charged the 3 10440's I have and only 1 actually fully works. One was dead off the charger and the other doesn't seem much better. The third seems fine. I'll have to get more 10440's. I've always been told I have asbestos hands, so I don't feel heat all that much. I guess I'm also more used to the tiny lights that get very HOT!!! I love my Lummi Raws, but on high, they can get so hot in your hand you have to put it down and/or turn it off...the latter being what I usually do...



Just took the good 10440 battery off the charger and set the timer for 5 minutes. Interestingly, after about 45 seconds the light dimmed dramatically...and not surprisingly, it was cool to the touch. So, it obviously my UltraFire 10440s. I've tried L92 Energizer Lithiums and they work at a higher brightness longer. Haven't checked heat/temperature, though. I'll have to eventually get more 10440s...


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## StandardBattery (Aug 21, 2009)

DaFABRICATA said:


> I'm having the exact same issue...except when I clean the threads and reinstall the head it works correctly.
> I was going to give the SS one to my brother because he is hard on his tools.
> I'm going to keep it and give him the HA version so he doesn't complain about the issue.
> I hope there is a way to fix this...:ironic:


 
I've heard a couple others having the issue as well. On these lights only the end of the tube/outer-pill-contact, battery+/Pill-contact, Battery-/Spring-contact, and Spring/body contact are required to provide the electrical path. So the Threads are technically not an issue. The lube though could be getting on the end of the tube, or even small debri loosened by lub might prevent contact. 

In these type of lights it's usually the end of the tube that needs to be properly maintained, but that does not appear to be the source of the problem (could be though, it's not a nice flat surface for mac area). 

Ha even a minor issue like this could affect their 'gifting' status to a non flashaholic.


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## SkunkWerx (Aug 21, 2009)

Patriot said:


> That 9290 looks ginormous for an AA light! What they need to do is make a AA version of the AAA light. Funny how small the Maratac is, even next to the EO1.


 

Excellent idea! I'd buy a 1AA version of the AAA, in a heartbeat!

No electrical (or any) issues at this end. 
I tested, re-tested, reseated the batteries a couple of times, Both the AAA and 9290 seem solid. 
I must have gotten ones made on Wednesday, beginning fo the day, not Friday afternoon, after paychecks were handed out.


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## Nake (Aug 21, 2009)

StandardBattery;
[B said:


> Electrical Issue:[/B] I do seem to be having some electrical issues with my SS, and I can't put my finger on it yet. Cleaning seemed to make it worse. I'm beginning to think it is some coating or contact issue with the spring in the bottom. Assemble the light and if it works it stays working. Disassembling (completely open) and reassemble, if it does not work then only completely opening and closing the light seems to get it working again. Very Very Strange. So don't panic if the light is DOA, it may not be DOA.


 
I had a similar issue with mine. When I opened it up, the spring was loose and near the opening of the tube. I pushed it down with a battery and it flickered when on. So, I took another battery and pushed on the battery already in the light to try and seat the spring into the bottom better. That seemed to do it as it works fine now.


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## Patriot (Aug 21, 2009)

The only problem I've encountered was a poor contact fault. I mentioned the remedy in Part 2 of the Maratac thread and it worked great. Here's a copy of that post. 




> *Patriot*
> Remove the head and battery. Place some 600-800 sand paper on a flat surface and rotate the battery tube face on the flat surface a 3 or 4 times to clean up the bare, flat contact edge of the tube. Clean good with a dry rag. Use a Q-tip or rag and clean the contact plate/circuit board on the inside of the head then lube and reassemble. Let us know if that helps.


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## AFAustin (Aug 22, 2009)

Just got back from one week in Mexico for my daughter's wedding (she married a Canadian so they decided on neutral territory ). The only lights I took with me to this happy event were a Maratac natural, and a Peak Matterhorn for back-up. I gotta say this little Maratac has now moved up to my current all time best-bang-for-the-buck light. It performed beautifully---everything from nighttime walks along the beach with my wife, to reading in bed, to you name it. I just popped in an e2 and took a few extra cells---no need to bother with NiMH and charger for a short trip.

As many others have commented, the Maratac manages to combine so many desirable features in one tiny, inexpensive package: 

*3 well-chosen levels; 

*a beautiful, floody beam with a nice neutal tint; 

*easy one-hand operation, thanks to the great knurling but even more so to the elongated head (simple, brilliant concept---I wonder why so many AAA twisties have short, hard-to-grip heads?); 

*simple, no-manual-required UI; 

*tiny size and featherlight wt.; 

*the good clip, together with the smooth twisty action, makes it so easy to whip up from your pocket, shoot a quick blast, and have it back in your pocket faster than Wyatt Earp!; 

*reversible clip allows for headlight function; 

*wide tailcap makes for stable tailstanding; 

*great runtime---an informal test I did a while back yielded around a solid hour on high with little dimming; 

*and best of all---the bargain price means I wasn't fretting about the chance it would get lost (though it didn't, and not even a second look from TSA ). 

The only negative I've seen so far is the very noticeable PWM on low---it is so strong at times that I think I have a flicker issue, but, given other CPFers' comments along this line, I imagine it is indeed the PWM. 

The only mishap at the wedding was when my daughter, the beautiful bride, was cutting up with her bridesmaids on the beach during their "bachelorette party", and managed to break her little toe on a rock (ouch! :mecry. My wife, never interested in flashlights herself though she's grown accustomed to my addiction, remarked, "Well, I'm just glad that when Dad and I walked on the beach, we always had a flashlight!" :candle:

So, here's one more toast (after the wedding, I'm still very much in "toast mode"), to my nominee for 2009 Best Bang-for-the-Buck Light, the *Marvelous Maratac*! :buddies:


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## oronocova (Aug 22, 2009)

^odd I haven't noticed the PWM. I have one other light that uses PWM or at least has noticeable PWM and my Maratac is not that noticeable. It might be somewhat subjective though. Only difference is I am using L92 lithiums, dunno if that matters or not. If I wave my hand in front of mine you can barely tell.


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## Patriot (Aug 23, 2009)

I'm fairly sensitive to picking up on PWM but it's not something that bothers me. I usually I'm just happy having the light when I need it. Comparing the Maratac's PWM to the LOD Q4, the Maratac's is a little bit faster. It would be really nice if they increased the frequency like Fenix did with the LD01, but I have no complaints with this little gem. The polished SS has really grown on me and I'm glad MKLight gave me the idea.


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## [email protected] (Aug 23, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> Yea I was night hiking today and seen some glowing eyes. Had the Rebel EOS headlamp on high but couldn't make out the critter. Guessed it was a deer based on the hight but well yea know how it is. Took out the ITP for kicks and was able to make out the animal's shape. So out threw my headlamp. Kinda happy with the light.



I'll gladly take that headlamp off your hands.


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## *Dusty* (Aug 23, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I'll gladly take that headlamp off your hands.


 

I think Woods Walker meant the Maratac Beam out threw his headlamps beam, not that he was throwing out the headlamp.......


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## [email protected] (Aug 23, 2009)

*Dusty* said:


> I think Woods Walker meant the Maratac Beam out threw his headlamps beam, not that he was throwing out the headlamp.......



'twas worth a try.


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## *Dusty* (Aug 23, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> 'twas worth a try.


 

Opportunistic Optimism FTW!!!


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## pyromaniac (Aug 23, 2009)

> great runtime---an informal test I did a while back yielded around a solid hour on high with little dimming;


I can confirm that!
Can't belive that nobody did a runtime test, yet.
Here is a quick and dirty one:

Maratac on High with Eneloop


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## WadeF (Aug 23, 2009)

Patriot said:


> I'm fairly sensitive to picking up on PWM but it's not something that bothers me. I usually I'm just happy having the light when I need it. Comparing the Maratac's PWM to the LOD Q4, the Maratac's is a little bit faster. It would be really nice if they increased the frequency like Fenix did with the LD01, but I have no complaints with this little gem. The polished SS has really grown on me and I'm glad MKLight gave me the idea.



I can detect the PWM with the Maratac, but it doesn't really bother me in use the way the PWM on my Fenix LOD Q4 does. Wouldn't hurt if they improved on it, but I feel it's perfectly acceptable the way it is for the price of the light.


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## andrew123 (Aug 23, 2009)

Does the Maratac have an inducter whine on any of the levels? My LD01 drives me nuts on medium and low.


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## *Dusty* (Aug 23, 2009)

I haven't heard any.

I have the same noise with my L1D but only on med and high.


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## geepondy (Aug 23, 2009)

Thanks for the graph. I'm hoping at some point to see how well it does in high with a alkaline and lithium. I may give out the one level version as a couple of Christmas gifts. I find multiple level lights tend to confuse or annoy a lot of casual users who won't be reading this forum.



pyromaniac said:


> I can confirm that!
> Can't belive that nobody did a runtime test, yet.
> Here is a quick and dirty one:
> 
> Maratac on High with Eneloop


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## Patriot (Aug 23, 2009)

andrew123 said:


> Does the Maratac have an inducter whine on any of the levels? My LD01 drives me nuts on medium and low.



Funny that you asked this but it's a good question. I've never picked up on it before so I went and had a listen. I've got pretty good ears and the only way I could hear it was to stick the head of the light in my ear like a q-tip...lol. In doing the same thing with the LOD, it was about 2-3 times louder.


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## andrew123 (Aug 23, 2009)

Thanks Patriot!


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## Woods Walker (Aug 23, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I'll gladly take that headlamp off your hands.


 

LOL. Not in this life. The Rebel EOS headlamp is great. I used the ITP 3-mode on its first AT trip. Yup the light has a WOW factor given the size. Everyone at the shelter wanted one.


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## Woods Walker (Aug 23, 2009)

pyromaniac said:


> I can confirm that!
> Can't belive that nobody did a runtime test, yet.
> Here is a quick and dirty one:
> 
> Maratac on High with Eneloop


 

Nice regulated output. Hope the see the some charts for the low and med modes. :twothumbs


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## MKLight (Aug 23, 2009)

Patriot said:


> I'm fairly sensitive to picking up on PWM but it's not something that bothers me. I usually I'm just happy having the light when I need it. Comparing the Maratac's PWM to the LOD Q4, the Maratac's is a little bit faster. It would be really nice if they increased the frequency like Fenix did with the LD01, but I have no complaints with this little gem. The polished SS has really grown on me and I'm glad MKLight gave me the idea.



LOL...you're welcome, Patriot. I am enjoying mine more and more every day. I like it polished and still haven't opened the second one yet. I may keep or gift it...haven't decided yet. 




WadeF said:


> I can detect the PWM with the Maratac, but it doesn't really bother me in use the way the PWM on my Fenix LOD Q4 does. Wouldn't hurt if they improved on it, but I feel it's perfectly acceptable the way it is for the price of the light.




I notice the PWM, too. It is definitely less than my L0Ds, but more so than my LD01. The spacing of levels is much better, though. 

Take care,
MK

PS I like the graphs! I really need to get rid of my no-runtime 10440s (they're old) and stick in an Energizer Lithium L92 AAA (or L91...always forget the exact number...lol


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## timbo114 (Aug 23, 2009)

I like your O ring idea.
Would it be silly to think that an O ring at each end of this light '_may_' save some damage from a drop or mishap threatening the corner edges?



Patriot said:


> ...
> 
> I removed the C-clip from my SS light to do some minor polishing and I decided to leave it off. I noticed that there were some sharp corners at the C-clip detents which I did soften up a bit with sand paper. Still, the light had and unfinished look to is so decided to find and o-ring to fit the groove back there.
> 
> ...


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## Patriot (Aug 24, 2009)

timbo114 said:


> I like your O ring idea.
> Would it be silly to think that an O ring at each end of this light '_may_' save some damage from a drop or mishap threatening the corner edges?





I'm not even sure it was my idea. I think one of the members clips broke and they put one on there a while back. If it offers any protection from bumps it's not much.








My latest pictures:


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## TONY M (Aug 24, 2009)

Thanks for runtime graph pyro!



Woods Walker said:


> Nice regulated output. Hope the see the some charts for the low and med modes. :twothumbs


+1


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## [email protected] (Aug 24, 2009)

Mhm speaking of run-times. When is selfbuilt's review gonna be published?


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## Mr. kydex (Aug 24, 2009)

andrew123 said:


> Does the Maratac have an inducter whine on any of the levels? My LD01 drives me nuts on medium and low.



Not sure about any "whining", But I have noticed a slight buzz. mostly on Med and Low. As Patriot said, It's not very loud though and you will not notice it unless it's very close to you ear.


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## IceRat (Aug 24, 2009)

I ran a enloop down in mine to see what it would do. It only gave me the lower two modes. High would be on for a split second then it would shift to a lower mode. I am glad it just didn't cut out dead. 

I can't wait to use it on my Labor Day camping trip to blow away all of the mag lights my brothers like to use.:naughty:


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## davidt1 (Aug 24, 2009)

Any news on the aa version of this light?


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## Patriot (Aug 24, 2009)

davidt1 said:


> Any news on the aa version of this light?



As far as I know, nothing is in the works though many people have suggested it.


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## StandardBattery (Aug 24, 2009)

I just got in the Natural iTP AAA Upgraded version. I can't find my black one right now, but this one has lazer etched "UPGRADED" on the head. A little tacky, they should have just called it EOS 2 if they could not come up with a new name. [_*Update:* found the Black one (taken apart), it too has UPGRADED etched opposite the iTP EOS etch on the head. missed that the first time._]

The finish is significantly darker than the Maratac natural, but it still looks good. It's dark enough to look quite grey, it looks darker than an old Fenix L1D Olive (although the Fenix could vary quite a bit). At a distance it definetly looks grey. Sorry no picture.

It sort of looked like a slightly upgraded spring as well, but it might just be sample variation. The threading was very nice and the LED tint was also very nice.

Overall this sample seems better than my pervious iTP samples, but that could just be the manufactering variation due to tolerances.

One more fun light to add to the collection. Keychains are going to upgraded in mass this holiday season.


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## davidt1 (Aug 24, 2009)

Which version of the Maratac lights does the ITP light have more throw over? I was thinking about buying a black Maratac to complement the natural one I have. However, if the ITP has more throw than the black Maratac, then I might go for that one instead.


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## Patriot (Aug 25, 2009)

davidt1 said:


> Which version of the Maratac lights does the ITP light have more throw over?




The both ITPs and Black Maratac have more throw than the natural Maratac.


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## adnj (Aug 25, 2009)

This thread is HUGE. Has anyone tried to put the Maratac head on a Streamlight body?


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## KDOG3 (Aug 25, 2009)

Just got my 2 black ones in today. (That makes 5 I've ordered LOL) Looks like I finally won the lottery with one of them. Great tint and nice beam profile. Gotta wait till its dark to know for sure. The other one I'll keep as a spare or for spare parts.


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## pyromaniac (Aug 25, 2009)

> Mhm speaking of run-times. When is selfbuilt's review gonna be published?


I would say soonish!
First runtime graph with the Maratac is already viewable in the Tikey review:
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/selfbuilt/TiKey-Runtimes.gif


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## gorn (Aug 25, 2009)

adnj said:


> This thread is HUGE. Has anyone tried to put the Maratac head on a Streamlight body?



The Maratac fits the Streamlight body, but it leave a gap of about 1/8th of an in from seating all the way.


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## CGD08 (Aug 25, 2009)

wow nice stuff Patriot. :thumbsup:
Very nice knurling from the looks of it! :huh:
Never heard of Maratac. 

And KDOG3 that was my old avatar  until I made this one


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## AlexD (Aug 26, 2009)

I'v just received my natural Maratac (thanks to StandardBattery). The reflector isn't set strictly vertically and therefore looks off-center something like here https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3038799&postcount=148. It doesn't affect the beam significantly, but such a maratac could be less waterproof due to absence of tight contact between the o-ring and lens on the side the reflector leans towards which.


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## Nake (Aug 26, 2009)

AlexD said:


> I'v just received my natural Maratac (thanks to StandardBattery). The reflector isn't set strictly vertically and therefore looks off-center something like here https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3038799&postcount=148. It doesn't affect the beam significantly, but such a maratac could be less waterproof due to absence of tight contact between the o-ring and lens on the side the reflector leans towards which.


 
An off center LED doesn't mean the reflector isn't vertical. Look around the edges of the lens to see if there is a gap anywhere between it and the edge of the reflector.


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## AlexD (Aug 26, 2009)

Nake said:


> An off center LED doesn't mean the reflector isn't vertical. Look around the edges of the lens to see if there is a gap anywhere between it and the edge of the reflector.


I am saying about the reflector, not about LED (it is off-center BTW). You can see a part of the silverish reflector's face end on the south-east on the citing photo, i have the same thing. And the width of the o-ring is about (by eye) 0.5 mm on one side and more than twice as much on the other.


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## Nake (Aug 26, 2009)

AlexD said:


> I am saying about the reflector, not about LED (it is off-center BTW). You can see a part of the silverish reflector's face end on the south-east on the citing photo, i have the same thing. And the width of the o-ring is about (by eye) 0.5 mm on one side and more than twice as much on the other.


 
Got it.


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## recDNA (Aug 26, 2009)

I read that the Maratac head fits with the Streamlite tail clicky. I wonder if a Mara-Stream would be smaller than the Fenix-Stream? I really want a good bu small AAA with a clicky.


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## Lynx_Arc (Aug 26, 2009)

it the meratec head will fit the LD01 then it is a good chance it will fit the streamlite


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## slipe (Aug 26, 2009)

davidt1 said:


> Which version of the Maratac lights does the ITP light have more throw over? I was thinking about buying a black Maratac to complement the natural one I have. However, if the ITP has more throw than the black Maratac, then I might go for that one instead.


 
My iTP standard has better throw than either the black or natural Maratac. The black Maratac might have slightly better throw than the natural, but there isn’t a lot to choose between them. The iTP standard has a very definite throw advantage.

I prefer the Maratac beam. The iTP is my EDC only because Maratac doesn’t make a light that starts on high.


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## Patriot (Aug 26, 2009)

recDNA said:


> I wonder if a Mara-Stream would be smaller than the Fenix-Stream? I really want a good bu small AAA with a clicky.




I believe it would be, by about 4mm. I decent reduction imo.


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## Lite_me (Aug 26, 2009)

Yes, once assembled, I measure the difference at ~ 3.5mm shorter w/ the Maratac head. The Maratac head doesn't screw on as far as the Fenix, so you don't gain all of the difference in size of the two heads.


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## iandh (Aug 27, 2009)

Any update comments on the c-clip for those that have been carrying using it on their keychain?

I'm strongly considering replacing my EDC polished stainless LD01 with the SS Maratac, for the lower low and easier one-handed turn-on.


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## kaichu dento (Aug 27, 2009)

I just got an ITP Upgrade and it has a very noticeable delay between modes, which I'm hoping is just a anomaly.

Has anyone noticed this problem with the Maratacs?


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## oronocova (Aug 27, 2009)

Mine doesn't have a delay but I have noticed you don't have to be super quick with the on/off to change modes. Seems like it gives you a couple/few seconds, which is nice I think. Is that what you are talking about or does yours take a while to change once you have twisted it back on? Mine is the Maratac not the iTP.


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## old4570 (Aug 27, 2009)

Maratac gives you 3 seconds to change modes , if you twist faster thats ok , but you have 3 seconds to change modes , after that 4 seconds it starts @ medium .


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## SkunkWerx (Aug 27, 2009)

After-one-week review:

The time they allow (on-off) to change modes is plenty, no extreme quickness needed at all, it's a very casual process.

Most of my usage has been short amounts of time, such as, walking to the workshop to lock it up for the night. I've used it quite a bit for doing close up inspection of parts and some intricate work.

Low mode is plenty for lighting the way immeidately in front of you when walking.
High mode is still pretty impressive for such a small light. If you need more High than this offers, then you are grabbing a light substantially larger and heavier.

No complaints, it's a top notch little light.

I'm waiting for a battery change, not dimming yet. No quantitative time measurements, but I can say I'm happy with the battery life given my usage so far.

Get one, it's a no brainer.
If you don't have an AAA light then it's almost mandatory you order one.

No complaints.

No regrets.


----------



## f22shift (Aug 27, 2009)

oronocova said:


> Mine doesn't have a delay but I have noticed you don't have to be super quick with the on/off to change modes. Seems like it gives you a couple/few seconds, which is nice I think. Is that what you are talking about or does yours take a while to change once you have twisted it back on? Mine is the Maratac not the iTP.


 i'm glad you mentioned this. actually if you try to twist too quick, it won't change to the next level. if you do it slowly it will consistently change.


----------



## tbenedict (Aug 27, 2009)

iandh said:


> I'm strongly considering replacing my EDC polished stainless LD01 with the SS Maratac, for the lower low and easier one-handed turn-on.


 
After being married for a while.....I have learned to take it however I can get it. :lolsign:


----------



## slipe (Aug 27, 2009)

f22shift said:


> i'm glad you mentioned this. actually if you try to twist too quick, it won't change to the next level. if you do it slowly it will consistently change.


 
Neither of my Maratacs work that way.

From off you can pull the head back to turn the light on momentarily. As fast as I can pull it changes modes. I can’t switch quite that fast twisting, but they both also change modes as quickly as I can twist.


----------



## tsask (Aug 27, 2009)

I give up! lovecpfI had been ignoring this thread/light because I have several quality AAA lights from Fenix & Arc.

I now need not one but TWO of these (one as gift for nonflashaholic who admired my PD 20 Q5 LED)!

If 4 Sevens or BatteryJunction or Lighthound does not have these, where do I go?

I know there's a link out there someplace but since this light is so liked by so many, it should be a simple pleasant purchasing experience, even if it did not come from 3 of my favorite sources.


----------



## leukos (Aug 27, 2009)

I wonder if the right sized split ring exists out there that could replace the current lanyard ring, something like this:http://www.lighthound.com/Inox-Two-...Fire-C-D-M-P-Z-series-flashlights_p_3054.html It would probably inspire a bit more confidence for the key ring. 

Also, it was probably mentioned in one of the previous 100 pages of this thread, but if you are using conductive silicone lube with this light, you can create some flickering and contact problems if the lube works its way onto the contact strips on the circuit board. Just wipe clean and problem solved. Other than that, this was a fantastic puchase for an AAA sized stainless steel light.


----------



## Mostly (Aug 27, 2009)

tsask said:


> I give up! lovecpfI had been ignoring this thread/light because I have several quality AAA lights from Fenix & Arc.
> 
> I now need not one but TWO of these (one as gift for nonflashaholic who admired my PD 20 Q5 LED)!
> 
> ...



CountyComm is the only place you can get the Maratac: Professional Flashlight Index 

There are three CPFMarketplace vendors, including BatteryJunction, selling the ITP EOS equivalent, which is very similar except for not as well-knurled and can't tailstand (but stronger keychain attachment). I went with ShiningBeam, mainly because of low shipping. If you were getting more than a couple, though, GoingGear's shipping would be cheaper. (Both have 5% discount codes, too). 

Thanks to this forum I also spent three dollars yesterday on three sticks of crappy Chapstick Classic :green: that I'll never use, just to get the fourth "natural" one with the translucent cap. It fits very tight compared to older Chapstick cap on my LOD, and won't fit my EO1 at all, but maybe the older one has just stretched over time. Nice diffuser, though.  

This is the first time I've had a DREAM about a flashlight before I've received it. I dreamed I was showing it to my brother and it was the size of a Streamlight Nano. Which is funny because I've never held or seen an actual Nano.


----------



## tsask (Aug 27, 2009)

Thanks! looks like a popular design.


----------



## pyromaniac (Aug 27, 2009)

I love these little lights!
One of them has largely replaced the LF2X as my keychain light.


----------



## Lite_me (Aug 27, 2009)

Ok, fess up! Did you paint that clip on that stainless, or what?


----------



## *Dusty* (Aug 27, 2009)

So i received my SS today thanks to Standardbattery and now being night time 'n all I've had a wee play.

The tint is a little different to my brother's natural Alu Maratac, and the hotspot is more defined, I actually prefer the slightly floodier beam but I am putting it down to the emitter being slightly more centered.

The head is a lot stiffer, or I should say it is a more positive action if that makes sense. I gave the threads a clean, and while they did yield a little of the black stuff it wasn't worth worrying about.

I also had a black one arrive in the same package so that brings the total to 5. I'm done!!!

4 of which have been either given away or "claimed" on the basis that posession is nine tenths of the law or something. :shrug:

Where my 2 year old learned that I'll never know......:nana:


----------



## jahxman (Aug 27, 2009)

iandh said:


> Can any Fenix LD01 and Maratec AAA owners confirm that the LD01 does/doesn't have longer throw than the Maratec, as mentioned in the second one of these threads?
> 
> The longer throw would be a bonus to me... I just picked up a stainless LD01 to replace my tired P1 yesterday, and I am kicking myself in the rear now that I've seen this light.... I need some excuse not to be mad I didn't get this awesome little light instead.


 
The 1 meter throw lux readings I just got with my Amprobe LM631A, using the same 10440 battery in both lights, and measuring three times swapping the battery between them and averaging the results:

LD01................2113 lux
ITP A3 EOS.......1904 lux

Ceiling bounce:

LD01................112 lux
ITP A3 EOS........98 lux


----------



## kanarie (Aug 27, 2009)

I have run some numbers on my cheap lux meter and compared the ITP A3 to an Fenix LOD-CE and a Fenix e0. I thought it also would be helpful for this thread.

estimate [email protected] meter
AAA Ni-MH:
lod-ce/ itp a3/ eo1
M 120/ 190
L 40 / 22
H 340 / 740/ 44

10440 Li-ion:
lod-ce/ itp a3 
M 470/ 620
L 180/ 55
H 1100/ 2100  (not really)
hotspot lod-ce and the itp are about the same size , less artifacts on the itp.
This time how much juice they draw:
AAA Ni-MH:
lod-ce / itp a3
M 0.27A / 0.22Ah
L 0.11A / 0.03Ah
H 0,8A / 0,8A

10440 Li-ion cell:
lod-ce / itp a3
M 0.4A / 0.3Ah
L 0.14A / 0.03Ah
H 1,10A / 1,12A

It is amazing what a few more years (new bin's and circuits) can do for efficiency 
for example look at high on Ni-MH twice the output at the same current draw. 
So twice the runtime/brightness for half the price that's how I like it!


*btw anyone knows who is selling/shipping the Maratac's internationaly* these days? (CountyComm does not ship int.)


----------



## Patriot (Aug 27, 2009)

Lite_me said:


> Ok, fess up! Did you paint that clip on that stainless, or what?




That's 100% polished out man! :naughty:


Nice job pyro! :twothumbs


----------



## AFAustin (Aug 27, 2009)

kanarie said:


> *btw anyone knows who is selling/shipping the Maratac's internationaly* these days? (CountyComm does not ship int.)



Contact StandardBattery and see if he is going to do yet another group buy.


----------



## Patriot (Aug 27, 2009)

leukos said:


> I wonder if the right sized split ring exists out there that could replace the current lanyard ring, something like this:http://www.lighthound.com/Inox-Two-...Fire-C-D-M-P-Z-series-flashlights_p_3054.html It would probably inspire a bit more confidence for the key ring.




Great thought leukos! I'm sure there is a clip this size but it would probably stick out from the groove quite a bit. The other consideration would be the amount of flex needed to get it over the groove and the possibility of there not being enough movement to allow it up and over. In any case it's worth the try. If I'm near Home Depot this weekend I'll look.


----------



## Blindasabat (Aug 27, 2009)

I gave three Maratac AAAs to my groomsmen at my wedding and I never opened the packages even though I had them for almost a month. What restraint. I never even got to touch them. I only briefly saw one groomsman playing with his the next morning. I think they like them.


----------



## kaichu dento (Aug 28, 2009)

oronocova said:


> Mine doesn't have a delay but I have noticed you don't have to be super quick with the on/off to change modes. Seems like it gives you a couple/few seconds, which is nice I think. Is that what you are talking about or does yours take a while to change once you have twisted it back on? Mine is the Maratac not the iTP.


Mine is actually going dark between mode changes. If all it did was take a moment to change while staying on the previous mode it wouldn't be nearly as disturbing, but to lose all output is not what I buy lights for.

Going Gear said he hasn't heard of this complaint but that he's sending me out a replacement. :twothumbs


----------



## gorn (Aug 28, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> Mine is actually going dark between mode changes. If all it did was take a moment to change while staying on the previous mode it wouldn't be nearly as disturbing, but to lose all output is not what I buy lights for.
> 
> Going Gear said he hasn't heard of this complaint but that he's sending me out a replacement. :twothumbs



Mine go off when changing modes. Isn't that how they are designed? You break the connection and reconnect to switch modes. I don't find that fraction of a second of darkness too alarming. I guess you could get another and leave it on during mode changes.


----------



## Patriot (Aug 28, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> Mine is actually going dark between mode changes. If all it did was take a moment to change while staying on the previous mode it wouldn't be nearly as disturbing, but to lose all output is not what I buy lights for.




If I'm understanding correctly, that's very typical for this style of light. Most of the twisties operate this way. :thumbsup:


----------



## kaichu dento (Aug 28, 2009)

gorn said:


> Mine go off when changing modes. Isn't that how they are designed? You break the connection and reconnect to switch modes. I don't find that fraction of a second of darkness too alarming. I guess you could get another and leave it on during mode changes.





Patriot said:


> If I'm understanding correctly, that's very typical for this style of light. Most of the twisties operate this way. :thumbsup:


As an avowed L0D fan I'm not new to twisties! :nana:

However, I'm not good at putting my intentions into words at times, like now! My light is staying dark, even after turning back on. With the L0D or other twisties I'm so accustomed to the brief downtime between mode changes that I don't even notice it, unless the light refuses to turn back on when set to the on position.


----------



## oronocova (Aug 28, 2009)

^ Yeah, I don't think that's normal. As soon as I have twisted mine off and then tightened it back to where it should be "on" there is instant light. No delay after fully tightening.

GoingGear seems to be really good to deal with in my experience so at least you are getting another.


----------



## kaichu dento (Aug 28, 2009)

I'm not at all concerned about getting them exchanged and mostly brought up the issue just so there would be record of the problems and also to find out if it was common or not. 

Hopefully a plus is that I'll end up with the newer VersaTi that starts on low first! All of you AAA fans may want to take a good look at it too!


----------



## Patriot (Aug 28, 2009)

oronocova said:


> ^ Yeah, I don't think that's normal. As soon as I have twisted mine off and then tightened it back to where it should be "on" there is instant light. No delay after fully tightening.





+1


It appears to be broke--ted..... :sigh:

Sorry kaichu dento, that's a bummer.


----------



## sabre7 (Aug 28, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> I'm not at all concerned about getting them exchanged and mostly brought up the issue just so there would be record of the problems and also to find out if it was common or not.
> 
> Hopefully a plus is that I'll end up with the newer VersaTi that starts on low first! All of you AAA fans may want to take a good look at it too!



The Versa Ti looks nice, but at $75 it is not in a comparable price range as the Maratac.


----------



## leukos (Aug 29, 2009)

Patriot said:


> Great thought leukos! I'm sure there is a clip this size but it would probably stick out from the groove quite a bit. The other consideration would be the amount of flex needed to get it over the groove and the possibility of there not being enough movement to allow it up and over. In any case it's worth the try. If I'm near Home Depot this weekend I'll look.


 
I discovered the 1/2 inch snap ring fits pretty well. I polished the edges a bit to keep it from snagging. If anyone wants to try this more secure lanyard option, it costs about 19 cents at your local hardware store :thumbsup:


----------



## StandardBattery (Aug 29, 2009)

AlexD said:


> I'v just received my natural Maratac (thanks to StandardBattery). The reflector isn't set strictly vertically and therefore looks off-center something like here https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3038799&postcount=148. It doesn't affect the beam significantly, but such a maratac could be less waterproof due to absence of tight contact between the o-ring and lens on the side the reflector leans towards which.


 


AlexD said:


> I am saying about the reflector, not about LED (it is off-center BTW). You can see a part of the silverish reflector's face end on the south-east on the citing photo, i have the same thing. And the width of the o-ring is about (by eye) 0.5 mm on one side and more than twice as much on the other.


 
Yesterday I received the light referenced in the original post back from Centropolis. AlexD is right, as can be seen from the photo and the beam shot the reflector was skewed (sitting at a bit of an angle actually as well as off center).

I was able to open the light with out too much trouble after I found the right tool (a special pair of small very robust SS needle nose). It turned out the lens was skewed and this the reflector sitting on top of that was skewed. I removed all the pieces and reassembled. Fixed, better than ever, everything is nice and centered. I think the lens was skewed because one edge got past the o-ring.

That lucky *** Centropolis however got a new light as I did my postal stuff before taking the time to look at this. I'm happy though because I know I can open the early Maratacs, or at least some of them. These could be really great mod hosts as new emitters are released, or if I get myself a warmer tinted xp-e. 

Anyone who as not seen *Selfbuilt's iTP/Maratac AAA Review *should head to the Reviews section.


----------



## StandardBattery (Aug 29, 2009)

Nice leukos!

Does that size spin, or is it a tight fit?


----------



## leukos (Aug 29, 2009)

Mine spins, and I think I prefer it that way. It is by no means loose, it would take a bit of torque to get it off unlike the stock lanyard.


----------



## StandardBattery (Aug 29, 2009)

leukos said:


> Mine spins, and I think I prefer it that way. It is by no means loose, it would take a bit of torque to get it off unlike the stock lanyard.


 
Ya I think I would prefer it to spin as well. My stock attachment seems very tight and strong, but some people seem to receive loose ones, and I don't actually use it so I'm waiting for some long term reports to see how reliable the stock on is. 

The snap ring would be easier to get on and off if you have the pliers, so that's nice.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Aug 30, 2009)

Where can this Maratac AAA be bought in stainless steel version ?

I like it better than the iTP A3 model , cause I like agressive knurling .

I can't find it . .... or is it not avail. in SS ?
.


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## StandardBattery (Aug 30, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Where can this Maratac AAA be bought in stainless steel version ?
> 
> I like it better than the iTP A3 model , cause I like agressive knurling .
> 
> ...


 
If you're in the US then from County Comm, they own the Maratac name.


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## gunga (Aug 31, 2009)

leukos said:


> I discovered the 1/2 inch snap ring fits pretty well. I polished the edges a bit to keep it from snagging. If anyone wants to try this more secure lanyard option, it costs about 19 cents at your local hardware store :thumbsup:


 
That is a fabulous idea, I'll have to try it out!
Really glad to see a possible solution to the iffy keychain attachment.


----------



## SkunkWerx (Aug 31, 2009)

leukos said:


> I discovered the 1/2 inch snap ring fits pretty well. I polished the edges a bit to keep it from snagging. If anyone wants to try this more secure lanyard option, it costs about 19 cents at your local hardware store :thumbsup:


 
Leukos, Excellent idea, thanks for the great pic.

I just checked my Maratac groove with dial calipers, it measures .468

Checked a snap ring chart, and it says this:
For Shaft Diameter1/2" Fits Groove Diameter 0.468"

Looks like it's made to spec. for that 1/2" snap ring!

I'm going to the hardware store tomorrow at lunch break! :twothumbs

And, for the curious, they DO make stainless steel snap-rings. :rock:


----------



## mbiraman (Aug 31, 2009)

I got my black AAA today. Thanks very much to Standard Battery for making this happen. I'm a bit of a late comer to these lights and have nothing new to add that hasn't been said already and i've had the same response as many have which is , "boy this is small". Then comes, "this is a bright light for its size". Then comes, "seems very well made". Then comes, "almost unnoticeable in my pants". Then comes," real easy to turn on and adjust. And lastly the the fateful phrase, "I want more of them". Well i'll have to wait for a while till some work comes through but i'm real pleased with the light. Great idea about the snap ring as well.


----------



## Patriot (Sep 1, 2009)

leukos said:


> I discovered the 1/2 inch snap ring fits pretty well. I polished the edges a bit to keep it from snagging. If anyone wants to try this more secure lanyard option, it costs about 19 cents at your local hardware store :thumbsup:





Outstanding leukos! Thank you very much for trying and posting this. I'll be at the hardware store on my lunch hour tomorrow. 

You're the man! :thumbsup:


----------



## *Dusty* (Sep 1, 2009)

I gave one more away to my mate who is a non-flashaholic with potential!! I had noticed he carried a mag solitaire on his keys last winter and remember thinking to myself how his was as bad as mine for light!!

I gave him the little light unopened and untested, along with a nice energizer lithium primary, and phoned last night to check it worked 

"Its a bright little bugger ain't it??!!!"


----------



## SkunkWerx (Sep 1, 2009)

Performed the LLC (Leukos Lanyard Conversion) on the Maratac AAA today. It worked like a champ using the 1/2" snap ring.

My first reaction after installing was, "This thing isn't going anywhere!"







Say goodbye to the Fenix EO1 on my keyring, hellooooo, Maratac.


----------



## Patriot (Sep 1, 2009)

I picked up a couple of 1/2" snap rings (inside diameter) and they're very loose. I guess I've got the wrong size?

Where did you guys pick up your snap rings?

Thanks.


----------



## leukos (Sep 1, 2009)

Mine rotates pretty freely on my SS Maratac, but it would take quite a bit of force to get it off without some pliers. I bought mine at Menards.


----------



## Patriot (Sep 2, 2009)

Thanks leukos, it must be something else since mine is not only loose, it sticks out from the light a lot more than in the previous pics. I think I'll go back and see if there's a smaller size tomorrow. Their bins were a bit mixed up but I did measure it at a 1/2" with the calipers. Maybe it's a different style too. 

Still love your idea though.


----------



## leukos (Sep 2, 2009)

I'll send you some if you can't find the right size. Let me know.


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Sep 2, 2009)

you could try a 12mm if they have metric rings


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## SkunkWerx (Sep 2, 2009)

Patriot,

Mine came from Ace hardware.

A 1/2" snap ring is called such because it's made to fit a 1/2" shaft with a groove cut into it. The ID of the snap ring should be approx. .468"

If your snap ring's ID is approx .50" then perhaps you got a 9/16" snap ring by mistake, since they were mixed up? That's my uneducated guess. :thinking:

Mine spins like Leukos' does. 
If yours can "rattle" it back and forth a little, laterally, then yes, I'd say it's a size too big.

Good Luck. :thumbsup:


----------



## shadeone (Sep 2, 2009)

i dont have the light yet and have never dealt with these snap rings... how do they go on there?

shade


----------



## flasherByNight (Sep 2, 2009)

awesome find!

This is the one big thing holding me back from the maratacs....

For everyones reference, where are you finding these snap rings (specific names)?

Part#?


----------



## DoctaDink (Sep 2, 2009)

For those of you that have ordered Maratac SS from CountyComm:
How long do they usually take to ship? I ordered 4 on 8/25 and got the receipt notice, but have not heard from them since, except for automated responses to my inquiries last week and this week:
_County Comm will be closed Friday Saturday and Sunday. During these
days, staff members will be away from the office and will not have
access to telephones or email. Shipping will resume Monday Thanks
County Comm Inc._


----------



## leukos (Sep 2, 2009)

shadeone said:


> i dont have the light yet and have never dealt with these snap rings... how do they go on there?
> 
> shade


 
Do a google search for snap ring pliers and you'll see what tool you need. A snap ring is a "u" shaped ring that is streched open to fit on a bolt.


----------



## __philippe (Sep 2, 2009)

flasherByNight said:


> awesome find!
> 
> This is the one big thing holding me back from the maratacs....
> 
> ...


 
Look under "fasteners" - "retaining rings" in any decent hardware supplier's catalog.

Here is an exemple:

http://images.google.be/imgres?imgu...bv=2&hl=en&safe=off&ei=YayeSrLwNtqe_AaOpdXdAg


Cheers,

__philippe


----------



## Patriot (Sep 2, 2009)

Very kind of you *leukos*, thank you for the offer. I'll see what I can do here first. If Ace doesn't have the correct size I'll likely stop at Home Depot tomorrow. 




I'll keep and eye out for the 12mm, thanks *lynx*.





*Skunkwerx*, the inside diameter of my rings is .500 exactly so I'm guessing I did indeed get a 9/16" ring. Since they were mixed up I simply measured it not thinking that the diameter has to actually be smaller than the shaft it's going onto, (.468 in this case) but what you said makes perfect sense. On the down side, I don't think they have 1/2" rings left because I was already looking for the next smaller size which I didn't see. The 7/16 size was too small I believe. I'll have to give the Home Depot a try. If it's not there I'll take *Leukos* up on his kind offer.


----------



## Patriot (Sep 2, 2009)

DoctaDink said:


> For those of you that have ordered Maratac SS from CountyComm:
> How long do they usually take to ship? I ordered 4 on 8/25 and got the receipt notice, but have not heard from them since, except for automated responses to my inquiries last week and this week:




It seems that if you're in the states shipping takes less than a week. You may give them a call if your concerned though.


----------



## davidt1 (Sep 2, 2009)

Don't forget to ask Countycomm for the aa version of this light.


----------



## DoctaDink (Sep 2, 2009)

davidt1 said:


> Don't forget to ask Countycomm for the aa version of this light.


?? Do you mean, ask them to produce an AA version of this light?


----------



## davidt1 (Sep 2, 2009)

DoctaDink said:


> ?? Do you mean, ask them to produce an AA version of this light?



Yes, that too.


----------



## DoctaDink (Sep 2, 2009)

I'd consider it if I could get them on the phone. Everytime I call I get a busy signal. ...guess I'll just wait a while longer.


----------



## SkunkWerx (Sep 2, 2009)

DoctaDink said:


> I'd consider it if I could get them on the phone. Everytime I call I get a busy signal. ...guess I'll just wait a while longer.


 
DoctorDink,

I'm on the east coast, it took about 5 business days.


----------



## SkunkWerx (Sep 2, 2009)

Here are the stainless steel snap rings at McMaster-Carr.
shows dimensions also.

We would have to buy 10 of them in a pack.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#91590a122/=3gn0dm

When I order my SS version of this light, I will be looking into getting the stainless steel snap rings. :twothumbs


----------



## Flying Turtle (Sep 2, 2009)

Here's a pic of some snap ring pliers that I found at Northern Tool. Was going to use them to put a pocket clip on the LF3XT, but never did.







Geoff


----------



## DoctaDink (Sep 2, 2009)

Wooohooot! UPS just arrived with 4 new SS Maratacs. 7 days from order to arrival. Wish CountyComm would "comm" better, but no complaints otherwise. All are in perfect working order.


----------



## leukos (Sep 2, 2009)

SkunkWerx said:


> Here are the stainless steel snap rings at McMaster-Carr.
> shows dimensions also.
> 
> We would have to buy 10 of them in a pack.
> ...


 
Nice find, SkunkWerx. I think that has "groupbuy" written all over it!


----------



## zenlunatic (Sep 3, 2009)

Can the clip be turned around, for example to clip to a hat bill and work like a headlamp?


----------



## gunga (Sep 3, 2009)

Yep!

Just wander through this thread for pix!


----------



## Alaric Darconville (Sep 3, 2009)

An aspheric lens for this (maybe one with a collar so that it slips on and off easily) would really be something, I'd expect.


----------



## fixitman (Sep 3, 2009)

zenlunatic said:


> Can the clip be turned around, for example to clip to a hat bill and work like a headlamp?



Most definitely can be worn on the hat. Works on a plastic hard hat if you put some O-rings on the body. I have been using mine this way for the last 2 weeks. The wide beam pattern makes for a good headlamp.


----------



## gunga (Sep 3, 2009)

Darn it. My home depot only has 3/8" snap rings. I guess it's time to try Rona or Cdn tire...


----------



## djshiner (Sep 3, 2009)

Yup, ... Rona does have 1/2" though.


----------



## dougmwpsu (Sep 3, 2009)

Just got my ITP Upgrade. This thing is great! The threading and machining look very good to my eyes and the tail clip reverses just like the Maratac. The keychain attachment is rock solid, which if I have to choose, I prefer over being able to tail stand (though having both would be a nice bonus). The only real downside I can see Vs. the Maratac is the lack of real knurling, but hey, can't have everything... especially not for $20 shipped.

This light is going to be so fun!


----------



## Patriot (Sep 3, 2009)

For those who don't know, the SS ITP light is scheduled to ship out on the 10th.


----------



## Bodach (Sep 4, 2009)

BRO said:


> I paid $23.42 from Battery Junction for an upgraded ITP EOS and that included a $3.95 shipping charge all the way across the country.



Wow they wanted 11.43 shipping to ship to Kansas found one at going gear for 20.50 with 1.43 for shipping:twothumbs


----------



## Woods Walker (Sep 4, 2009)

Bodach said:


> Wow they wanted 11.43 shipping to ship to Kansas found one at going gear for 20.50 with 1.43 for shipping:twothumbs


 

You need to pick USPS first class I think.


----------



## gunga (Sep 4, 2009)

djshiner said:


> Yup, ... Rona does have 1/2" though.


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## Patriot (Sep 5, 2009)

Nick at CC sent me and email today saying that four lights were sent back from one or more CPFers, for the reason of.... "they just quit working." Upon receiving the lights and inspecting them, each one of them had mangled circuit boards from people trying to unscrew the engine with snap ring pliers. What's interesting is that CPFers are always modding and tinkering with lights but I can't imagine what person would actualy tamper with and then send back lights for warranty replacement. It's a bit embarassing for our community if you ask me. :thumbsdow

I'm trying to get either pictures of the damaged lights or get my hands of them to show you guys. He asked me to pass along the message that if you try to remove the light engine and it ends up damaged, they're not going to be able to replace it under warranty, obviously. When we attempt to mod lights, that's the gamble we take. :duh2:


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## dandism (Sep 5, 2009)

Don't know about the Maratacs, but the ITP EOS comes with spare O-rings which may imply given permission to change the light's O-rings (one requiring the removal of the pill). Maybe they should provide intstructions on how to remove it without damaging the circuit.


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## JohnR66 (Sep 5, 2009)

dandism said:


> Don't know about the Maratacs, but the ITP EOS comes with spare O-rings which may imply given permission to change the light's O-rings (one requiring the removal of the pill). Maybe they should provide intstructions on how to remove it without damaging the circuit.



The Maratac comes with two spares as well. I would think they are to replace the one that seals the body and head since it is subject to wear from turning the head to turn on/off the light and change modes. The lens O ring being permanent since there is no movement there.


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## davidt1 (Sep 5, 2009)

When is the aa version coming out?


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## Woods Walker (Sep 5, 2009)

Patriot said:


> Nick at CC sent me and email today saying that four lights were sent back from one or more CPFers, for the reason of.... "they just quit working." Upon receiving the lights and inspecting them, each one of them had mangled circuit boards from people trying to unscrew the engine with snap ring pliers. What's interesting is that CPFers are always modding and tinkering with lights but I can't imagine what person would actualy tamper with and then send back lights for warranty replacement. It's a bit embarassing for our community if you ask me. :thumbsdow
> 
> I'm trying to get either pictures of the damaged lights or get my hands of them to show you guys. He asked me to pass along the message that if you try to remove the light engine and it ends up damaged, they're not going to be able to replace it under warranty, obviously. When we attempt to mod lights, that's the gamble we take. :duh2:


 
I was going to say something but changed my mind.


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## Patriot (Sep 5, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> What I find embarassing is the fact they sent you the email in the first place.



I occasionally chat with or exchange email with CC. It seems this particular email was sent primarily to ask if I knew why people were trying to take the pill out, that's all. Basically I replied, because we're CPFers and it's in our nature but at the same time indicating that most of us recognize that damage isn't a warranty issue.


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## kramer5150 (Sep 5, 2009)

Patriot said:


> Nick at CC sent me and email today saying that four lights were sent back from one or more CPFers, for the reason of.... "they just quit working." Upon receiving the lights and inspecting them, each one of them had mangled circuit boards from people trying to unscrew the engine with snap ring pliers. What's interesting is that CPFers are always modding and tinkering with lights but I can't imagine what person would actualy tamper with and then send back lights for warranty replacement. It's a bit embarassing for our community if you ask me. :thumbsdow
> 
> I'm trying to get either pictures of the damaged lights or get my hands of them to show you guys. He asked me to pass along the message that if you try to remove the light engine and it ends up damaged, they're not going to be able to replace it under warranty, obviously. When we attempt to mod lights, that's the gamble we take. :duh2:



Oh man thats lame.
Come on guys, where's your integrity. Manufacturers offer warranties, don't abuse them!!


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## sabre7 (Sep 5, 2009)

Patriot said:


> I occasionally chat with or exchange email with CC. It seems this particular email was sent primarily to ask if I knew why people were trying to take the pill out, that's all. Basically I replied, because we're CPFers and it's in our nature but at the same time indicating that most of us recognize that damage isn't a warranty issue.



There were earlier threads saying the reflector was not positioned properly and references made about correcting the problem by removing the pill with split ring pliers.

Apparently this fix didn't work out too well for some, and they felt the light was flawed to begin with and deserved a refund or replacement. Attempting to take the light apart would void the warranty though.


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## Patriot (Sep 5, 2009)

> *sabre
> *There were earlier threads saying the reflector was not positioned properly and references made about correcting the problem by removing the pill with split ring pliers.


I didn't think about that particular issue when I emailed them, but thank you for the reminder. I'll remind them of that also. Thanks sabre.


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## dandism (Sep 5, 2009)

sabre7 said:


> There were earlier threads saying the reflector was not positioned properly and references made about correcting the problem by removing the pill with split ring pliers.


 Mine is currently like this, it looks like part of the o-ring is in front of the lens and the other part is around it. There is not chance for water resistance the way it is now and the relecter is not straight. I'd rather try to fix it myself than have to send it back and wait longer to get it back, but it seems they have put some kind of glue on there :/


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## Woods Walker (Sep 5, 2009)

Patriot said:


> I occasionally chat with or exchange email with CC. It seems this particular email was sent primarily to ask if I knew why people were trying to take the pill out, that's all. Basically I replied, because we're CPFers and it's in our nature but at the same time indicating that most of us recognize that damage isn't a warranty issue.


 
This isssue is only related to the 4 people involved. No one else. Just sayin..... But this is off topic. More on topic is the fact my iTP got tossed onto the road today by mistake. The little Fenix lanyard I am using got hung up on my fingers geting the keys and somehow tossed the little light far into the air. Only a few dings and both battery and light worked great. Guessing the Maratac would also be able to take a similar hit. My EDC stuff gets banged around a good bit. But if I got something that couldn't take even a mild drop then for me this is a warranty issue. If a light can't change modes or flickers off this too needs repair. If the reflector is not centered so as to affect the water resistance then this would also apply. An off centered LED that does not effect the field use of a light, well who cares. If I messed around with the head which is something I wouldn't do then clearly this is my bad. But that goes without saying.


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## Patriot (Sep 5, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> This isssue is only related to the 4 people involved. No one else. Just sayin.....





Good point....  

Maybe because I talk with those guys it seemed a bit closer to home. I did find out that it was for separate people though and not just one person sending for lights back. In any case on to other things.....



I'm glad that your light survived the little toss you gave it. It always amazes me how well small lightweight lights hold up so well when dropped.


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## Woods Walker (Sep 5, 2009)

Yea I think it it the low mass of the 1XAAA lights that helps given there is nothing wrong with the guts. I was worried about this one however. Only 9 grams and with those thin walls compared to my other 1XAAAs. I almost wanted to toss it up and see what happened but knew my butter fingers would take care of that sooner or later. The price for these falls into my "I don't care level" much like the E01. But still money is tight so only got one. Guessed if it held up then maybe in another month I would get a SS Maratac or iTP. Didn't want to buy a bunch of them only to discover durability issues. The reflector on mine is perfect. Same goes for LED and tint. So far durability seems fine for EDC, and if it gets lost and this happens to everyone sooner or later well so what.


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## StandardBattery (Sep 5, 2009)

That is pretty lame, but yes it has little to do with this community, and is about the people who thought to do this. If in fact their analysis was correct and the individuals did such a thing. Who is to say the individuals are even part of this community. 

I can say is I'm glad to be able to open them, and manufactures that make something for a niche market like this should not make it difficult for us to do so. The great thing about these lights is if you bugger one, you can get another without much trouble or hit to the pocket book. The advantage off messing with a low cost light. 

Warranty abuse is everywhere, I don't even know why it was mentioned here, if the lights were tampered with they don't have to honor any warranty. There was no need to mention the possible actions of some people we may or may not know. If they wanted to let people know what their warranty covers they have other means.

CC seem like great guys and I don't think they intended in any way to label the community.


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## LumenHound (Sep 5, 2009)

StandardBattery said:


> That is pretty lame, but yes it has little to do with this community, and is about the people who thought to do this. If in fact their analysis was correct and the individuals did such a thing. Who is to say the individuals are even part of this community.
> 
> I can say is I'm glad to be able to open them, and manufactures that make something for a niche market like this should not make it difficult for us to do so. The great thing about these lights is if you bugger one, you can get another without much trouble or hit to the pocket book. The advantage off messing with a low cost light.
> 
> ...


Well said SB. You bring up some good points.


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## Patriot (Sep 6, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> Yea I think it it the low mass of the 1XAAA lights that helps given there is nothing wrong with the guts. I was worried about this one however. Only 9 grams and with those thin walls compared to my other 1XAAAs. I almost wanted to toss it up and see what happened but knew my butter fingers would take care of that sooner or later. The price for these falls into my "I don't care level" much like the E01. But still money is tight so only got one. Guessed if it held up then maybe in another month I would get a SS Maratac or iTP. Didn't want to buy a bunch of them only to discover durability issues. The reflector on mine is perfect. Same goes for LED and tint. So far durability seems fine for EDC, and if it gets lost and this happens to everyone sooner or later well so what.






I dropped my SS Maratac on a epoxy deck with a sandpaper type grit on its surface and it scratched it up a bit. I re-polished it and it looks as good as new. Nice part about not having a finish.


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## MKLight (Sep 6, 2009)

Patriot - thanks for keeping us up to date with CC and their thoughts!

SB - I thought these lights were originally made by ITP for Maratac directly for the US government...then the surplus (and probably majority of it current and future sales) are to the public (mainly us CPFers). So is this more of a niche item for CPF or was it originally thought about for the government? :shrug

Patriot, Leukos - I think the clamp is an awesome idea! I need to go to a hardware store and pick one up. :twothumbs

David - there is a AA version...it's model 9290 (or something similar, it may be 9260?). It's an infinitely variable light...


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## davidt1 (Sep 6, 2009)

No, that is not the aa light I am talking about. That light is a tank for an aa light. I want the aa version of the aaa light. What I am talking about here is Countycomm having the wisdom and business smart to take their aaa light to the logical next level. Never underestimate the James Bond appeal of toys/tools by making things small yet functional. They did it with the aaa light. Now they just need to do the same with an aa version of their aaa light.


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## DoctaDink (Sep 7, 2009)

A couple of my new Maratac AAA. One Polished, One Original:


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## Patriot (Sep 7, 2009)

Nice work on that polished SS light *Docta*. You did such a thorough job that it almost looks chromed.


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## Lite_me (Sep 7, 2009)

When I scrolled down to that pic, I uttered a verbal Wow! Nice! :thumbsup:


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## DoctaDink (Sep 7, 2009)

Thanks for the nice words! I used a buffing wheel on my bench grinder/buffer to do the final polishing. An easy job, as long as you use a firm grip to keep the little light from catching on the wheel and being thrown ( ...the voice of experience  )


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## JNewell (Sep 7, 2009)

DoctaDink said:


> Thanks for the nice words! I used a buffing wheel on my bench grinder/buffer to do the final polishing. An easy job, as long as you use a firm grip to keep the little light from catching on the wheel and being thrown ( ...the voice of experience  )


 
Echoing the "nice job" comment - and wondering how you worked around the lettering? (Is the lettering laser-etched, engraved/paint-filled, or what?)


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## DoctaDink (Sep 7, 2009)

I think the lettering must be etched. It didn't come off with my buffing, though, I suspect that it would if one got too agressive.


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## Flying Turtle (Sep 7, 2009)

Really nice work there. Makes that SS model even more tempting.

Geoff


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## MKLight (Sep 7, 2009)

davidt1 said:


> No, that is not the aa light I am talking about. That light is a tank for an aa light. I want the aa version of the aaa light. What I am talking about here is Countycomm having the wisdom and business smart to take their aaa light to the logical next level. Never underestimate the James Bond appeal of toys/tools by making things small yet functional. They did it with the aaa light. Now they just need to do the same with an aa version of their aaa light.



Understood. 

DoctaDink...one more...NICE WORK!!! :twothumbs

Still looking for the snap ring...Home Depot didn't have it - they looked at me like I was crazy...oh well...


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## TNRonin (Sep 7, 2009)

Link

Gee I wonder why CC would think somebody on CPF might attempt to mod one of the lights. I hope people take the responsibility due for messing up a light.

Mitch


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## DoctaDink (Sep 7, 2009)

MKlight,
Thanks. 
I looked for SS snap ring (retaining clip) at Lowes today...No luck. They said check with NAPA Auto parts.


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## MKLight (Sep 7, 2009)

DoctaDink said:


> MKlight,
> Thanks.
> I looked for SS snap ring (retaining clip) at Lowes today...No luck. They said check with NAPA Auto parts.




Thanks! :twothumbs Will do...will also try to check Ace and True Value, too.


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## tbenedict (Sep 8, 2009)

MKLight said:


> Thanks! :twothumbs Will do...will also try to check Ace and True Value, too.


 
I doubt they will have a stainless one, I worked at one for years.

I would check a motorcycle shop for stainless/chrome.


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## 762x51 (Sep 8, 2009)

Great job on the polishing, even better job on the photography. Great shot.


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## sabre7 (Sep 8, 2009)

According to Going Gear, the Stainless Steel iTP EOS will have a polished finish, not bead blasted like the Maratac.


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## Patriot (Sep 8, 2009)

sabre7 said:


> According to Going Gear, the Stainless Steel iTP EOS will have a polished finish, not bead blasted like the Maratac.





There's a pretty good picture of it here.


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## hogger (Sep 8, 2009)

would the snap ring mod work on the ITP? does it have the same groove that is on the tail end of the Maratac? If not possibly captavate the ring with an o-ring. I know it has the lug. but some people like to remove it.


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## Patriot (Sep 8, 2009)

Correction:

No groove on the ITP version.


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## EngrPaul (Sep 8, 2009)

*Re: Tailcap spring*

The light twists a tad bit easier if you replace the stainless steel spring with a gold-plated copper alloy spring. (Not that it's too stiff)

This puts less force on the (+) circuit board, improves contact resistance at the (-) electrode, and provides a more conductive path for electricity through the copper alloy coil.

These can be readily found in Fenix lights, even the most lowly model.


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## TNRonin (Sep 8, 2009)

Got the retaining ring for .37 from Ace Hardware today. Great MOD! I have mine attached to the Alox, and a small SAK on the other hole. I like how the light will swivel now. Thanks for the info.


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## Patriot (Sep 9, 2009)

*Re: Tailcap spring*



EngrPaul said:


> The light twists a tad bit easier if you replace the stainless steel spring with a gold-plated copper alloy spring. (Not that it's too stiff)
> 
> This puts less force on the (+) circuit board, improves contact resistance at the (-) electrode, and provides a more conductive path for electricity through the copper alloy coil.
> 
> These can be readily found in Fenix lights, even the most lowly model.




Thanks for the idea.... I wonder if there is another good source for this spring besides robbing it from my Fenix?


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## Lynx_Arc (Sep 9, 2009)

*Re: Tailcap spring*



Patriot said:


> Thanks for the idea.... I wonder if there is another good source for this spring besides robbing it from my Fenix?


sometimes you can just cut the spring shorter and stretch it to be the same link


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## Patriot (Sep 9, 2009)

*Re: Tailcap spring*



Lynx_Arc said:


> sometimes you can just cut the spring shorter and stretch it to be the same link




:thinking: do you mean the same width/diameter? 



Btw Paul, it worked perfectly just like you said. Slightly less resistance to turn the head now, which is especially nice on the SS light.


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## Lite_me (Sep 9, 2009)

This didn't work for me. I had an unused LOD body in my parts that I have the head on a Microstream, so I tried the spring out of it and it made my SS Maratac even harder to turn. The LOD spring is both longer and stiffer than the one in my SS Maratac. :shrug:

After a little lube on the threads, my stock SS Maratac feels about right to me. Just enough resistance that I know it won't come on in my pocket, but still twists smoothly when activating.


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## Lynx_Arc (Sep 9, 2009)

*Re: Tailcap spring*



Patriot said:


> :thinking: do you mean the same width/diameter?
> 
> 
> 
> Btw Paul, it worked perfectly just like you said. Slightly less resistance to turn the head now, which is especially nice on the SS light.


if you cut off some of the bottom of the spring and if needed stretch it some to both be the right length and maybe diameter if needed you have a spring with less power to it. Look at the bottom of your battery for scratching, if it is scored you may need to file/cut the top end of the spring so it doesn't catch on the bottom of the battery.


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## Patriot (Sep 9, 2009)

*Re: Tailcap spring*



Lynx_Arc said:


> if you cut off some of the bottom of the spring and if needed stretch it some to both be the right length and maybe diameter if needed you have a spring with less power to it. Look at the bottom of your battery for scratching, if it is scored you may need to file/cut the top end of the spring so it doesn't catch on the bottom of the battery.





ah..ok, I'm with you now. 

Actually I didn't hae to do anything special. It was a straight exchange with my LODs. Very easy and it probably has slightly less resistance too.





> *Lite_me*
> This didn't work for me. I had an unused LOD body in my parts that I have the head on a Microstream, so I tried the spring out of it and it made my SS Maratac even harder to turn. The LOD spring is both longer and stiffer than the one in my SS Maratac.




Sorry that it didn't work for you Lite_me. One of the springs came out of a LOD luxIII and the other I pulled from my original LOD CE. Both has slightly less spring pressure than the stock Maratac springs.


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## MKLight (Sep 9, 2009)

tbenedict said:


> I doubt they will have a stainless one, I worked at one for years.
> 
> I would check a motorcycle shop for stainless/chrome.





TNRonin said:


> Got the retaining ring for .37 from Ace Hardware today. Great MOD! I have mine attached to the Alox, and a small SAK on the other hole. I like how the light will swivel now. Thanks for the info.




Thanks...I'll try both...I'll hopefully be able to stop by one this week. 

TNRonin - which section was it in?


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## gunga (Sep 10, 2009)

djshiner said:


> Yup, ... Rona does have 1/2" though.


 

Hey, thanks for the tip, I had to hit a bigger Rona to get one. Home Depot and Cdn Tire, KMS tools did not have em.

Costs a bit more than I thought ($0.78 each!) but WTH, I got a few.
They even had some cool small o-rings I'll use on everything.


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## djshiner (Sep 10, 2009)

gunga said:


> Hey, thanks for the tip, I had to hit a bigger Rona to get one. Home Depot and Cdn Tire, KMS tools did not have em.
> 
> Costs a bit more than I thought ($0.78 each!) but WTH, I got a few.
> They even had some cool small o-rings I'll use on everything.


Glad to hear you found one at your Rona.

Last year I changed the transmission out in my Honda lawnmower. The axel reqiured 4 1/2" regular snap rings (Honda part no. 90651-VE2-800). I just reused the old ones as they were OK; besides the parts supplier wanted $0.80 each.
A lawnmower/small engine repair shop may be a source for those who can't find them anywhere. They could have them in their general shop supplies.


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## Patriot (Sep 10, 2009)

A question for the snap-ring mod guys. The individual holes on ear ear of my snap-rings are rather small in diameter and a bit hard to attached all but the smallest split rings to. I thought I'd open them up a size or two because there would still be plenty of metal left surrounding the two snap-ring holes. Unfortunately the snap-ring is apparently made out of kryptonite because I dulled 2 drill bits just trying to enlarge a single hole. :laughing:

So, finally, the question... has anyone else tried to enlarge the snap ring holes and if so did they use a special bit? I may have to ask over in the "materials and machining section" but thought I'd start here.

Thanks


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## Calina (Sep 10, 2009)

The rings are spring steel. You might be able to drill them at slow speed using a cobalt bit. Use water or an other coolant if necessary.


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## leukos (Sep 10, 2009)

Yeah, they're probably made of 1095 spring steel. If you have a dremel, a diamond bit should do the trick.


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## Patriot (Sep 10, 2009)

The cobalt bit at slow speed was one of the techniques that didn't work so well but perhaps that was due to my technique or maybe it really wasn't a cobalt bit as advertised.

I didn't think of the dremel but I may have a diamond bit for it. I'll go look. 

Thanks for the advice guys..

Paul


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## *Dusty* (Sep 11, 2009)

Just sharing some more real usage stories with you.

My wife was given the SS Maratac AAA to use at night, I showed her the different modes etc and she found low perfect for when the baby woke in the night wanting a feed. 

Basically she tail stood the little light on low, fed the child (she's breast feeding) and found it allowed her to see what she was doing perfectly well without being so bright as to waken the little fella after he had fallen asleep again.

However, last night,just before going to bed she switched the SS on, and it wouldn't change modes, and then wouldn't switch off without completely removing the head. I gave her my other standard maratac and all was well.

Took the SS this morning and gave it a good old clean round the threads and inside the head with cotton buds (cue tips to our american cousins :nana after spraying them with electrical contact cleaner, and relubed the o-ring and threads very lightly and all is fine again 

She's happy to have "her own" light back, I'm happy it works, everyone's happy because last night he slept right through the night for the first time!!!

Hopefully though if anyone else has a similar problem this will help them out with a relatively simple fix.


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## Patriot (Sep 11, 2009)

Good story *Dusty* and funny that she became attached to it. "Cotton buds" huh, that's a new term for my vocabulary.


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## SkunkWerx (Sep 11, 2009)

Dusty, that's good info on the clean out! 
Thanks.

Patriot, you could also try annealling the end of the ring with a microtorch, or even a butane lighter. might take away some of the tempering/hardness. try to drill it while it's still somewhat hot.

They probably contain some chromium and/or molybdenum, making them hard and slippery to drill. the bit is proibably just spinning round and round and not biting.


PS: I just ordered my AAA SS version!!! Will be here next week. now to find the polish....

.


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## Patriot (Sep 11, 2009)

SkunkWerx said:


> Patriot, you could also try annealling the end of the ring with a microtorch, or even a butane lighter. might take away some of the tempering/hardness. try to drill it while it's still somewhat hot.
> 
> They probably contain some chromium and/or molybdenum, making them hard and slippery to drill. the bit is proibably just spinning round and round and not biting.




Yeah the bit was spinning no matter how hard I pressed or how slow I went. I'm reminded that when I found this particular ring, it was a slightly different color than the rest too. I wonder if it's a more exotic material than all the others that were there. I've never before come up against a metal that I was unable to drill through. :thinking: I'm a lit bit leery of heating it substantially because I don't want it to lose any percentage of it's spring qualities and thus fit more loosely on the light. My dad has a larger selection of bits and a huge drill press, so next time I'm over we'll give it another shot.


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## *Dusty* (Sep 11, 2009)

Patriot said:


> Good story *Dusty* and funny that she became attached to it. "Cotton buds" huh, that's a new term for my vocabulary.




Just as cue tips was to mine 

Regardless, yet another example of 2=1, 1=0 !!


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## Lite_me (Sep 11, 2009)

*Dusty* said:


> Just as cue tips was to mine


 It's not cue tips. That would be Q-tips. 

A cue tip might be considered as the end of a pool stick. But more accurately, the stick is called a pool cue. :thumbsup: 

I really like my SS Maratac. The emitter is centered, nice tint, smooth beam, works great! And it's cue_t!


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## *Dusty* (Sep 12, 2009)

Looks like I spoke too soon, for some reason my SS has decided to drop the high mode and will only select med and low.

Fresh eneloop, any thoughts?


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## Lynx_Arc (Sep 12, 2009)

*Dusty* said:


> Looks like I spoke too soon, for some reason my SS has decided to drop the high mode and will only select med and low.
> 
> Fresh eneloop, any thoughts?



could be there may be some unknown extra resistance in the circuit that is dropping the voltage on high low enough the boost circuit may be throttling to medium but not enough to drop medium to low.


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## *Dusty* (Sep 12, 2009)

Not as far as i can tell, I'm wondering if it is the eneloops.

I'll maybe try an alkaline. It is fairly intermittent, but only of recent days.


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## leukos (Sep 12, 2009)

What kind of lube did you put on the threads?


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## timbo114 (Sep 12, 2009)

maybe try a dab of dielectric grease ?


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Sep 13, 2009)

*Dusty* said:


> Not as far as i can tell, I'm wondering if it is the eneloops.
> 
> I'll maybe try an alkaline. It is fairly intermittent, but only of recent days.



could try the usual, open the light, use a piece of wire to complete the circuit to see if there is a problem in the connection.


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## AlexD (Sep 13, 2009)

AlexD said:


> I'v just received my natural Maratac (thanks to StandardBattery). The reflector isn't set strictly vertically and therefore looks off-center something like here https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3038799&postcount=148. It doesn't affect the beam significantly, but such a maratac could be less waterproof due to absence of tight contact between the o-ring and lens on the side the reflector leans towards which.


I was trying to disassemble the head of my Matatac to fix the skew reflector but tore off the contact plate.








The reflector was skewed because the driver pill was glued at an angle of about 20-25 degrees.


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## Patriot (Sep 13, 2009)

That one was pretty tweaked *Alex*. Too bad these lights aren't easily fixable by owners. 

Does anyone know if people are seeing ITP AAA's with cocked reflectors too?


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## Woods Walker (Sep 13, 2009)

Patriot said:


> That one was pretty tweaked *Alex*. Too bad these lights aren't easily fixable by owners.
> 
> Does anyone know if people are seeing ITP AAA's with cocked reflectors too?


 

My 3-mode iTP reflector and LED look perfect to my eye,


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## dandism (Sep 13, 2009)

Patriot said:


> That one was pretty tweaked *Alex*. Too bad these lights aren't easily fixable by owners.
> 
> Does anyone know if people are seeing ITP AAA's with cocked reflectors too?


 My ITP was the same and I also broke the driver off when removing it. It took a lot of effort to get the rest of the pill out to resolder the wires and align everything together. For others with the same problem, I would recommend that you just send it back.


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## Patriot (Sep 14, 2009)

Thanks dandism. I didn't know if this sporadic problem was unique to the Maratac but it sounds as if it isn't. I know they're all made by ITP anyway but sometimes batches differ. Appreciate the info man.

Thanks.


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## davidt1 (Sep 14, 2009)

*Diffusers are good reasons to have a hidden beacon/strobe mode*

What's the number one reason some people hate strobe mode? IMHO, the inexperienced and uninformed mind. But officially, it's something like "Oh, it's so annoying. It bothers my eyes. Help me! My eyes hurt!" Anyway, I was playing with my hand sanitizer diffuser and it occurred to me that the light diffuser would greatly reduce strobe annoyance. The reason I thought about all this is all the stories I read about people who became lost and stranded in snow storms and died days/weeks later as SAR looked for and couldn't find them. In all of these cases the people who died did not have any signaling devices with them. Something as simple as a small flashlight with strobe mode, I believe, would make it so much easier for SAR to spot them. So now I wish my Maratac light has a hidden beacon mode.


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## Patriot (Sep 14, 2009)

*Re: Diffusers are good reasons to have a hidden beacon/strobe mode*



davidt1 said:


> What's the number one reason some people hate strobe mode? IMHO, the inexperienced and uninformed mind. But officially, it's something like "Oh, it's so annoying. It bothers my eyes. Help me! My eyes hurt!" Anyway, I was playing with my hand sanitizer diffuser and it occurred to me that the light diffuser would greatly reduce strobe annoyance. The reason I thought about all this is all the stories I read about people who became lost and stranded in snow storms and died days/weeks later as SAR looked for and couldn't find them. In all of these cases the people who died did not have any signaling devices with them. Something as simple as a small flashlight with strobe mode, I believe, would make it so much easier for SAR to spot them. So now I wish my Maratac light has a hidden beacon mode.






Perhaps some fairly broad assumptions going on in there David.....

Well, strobe doesn't hurt my eyes, nor do I hate it but outside of a "tactical" or "flagging down" application I don't have many uses for it. I'm reasonable experienced in the flashlight arena and also somewhat experience in the outdoors having spent many nights in the woods or desert, from a backpack, during various activities such as archery hunting, back backing, and mountain biking. I think that in this case, it's just that most don't like or need that feature on a practical, everyday basis, which seems to be what people are carrying this light for. The Maratac is budget light that's attractively sized and has features that are geared for the average user with "everyday" needs, based on what a AAA battery is capable of doing.

With regards to this feature's useful advantage, I'd also have to question how much of this notion is based verifiable data as compared to what just sounds good to you. While it may be true that a strobe feature could help a stranded person to be found the comment also misses the point that a flashlight is the signaling device which is absent in your example story, aside from any special mode, like strobe. Of this group who could have supposedly been located by rescuers had they possessed a signaling device, how many of these rescues failed not because they didn't have strobe but because they didn't have a flashlight, period? In other words, a person could make do with a flashlight as long as they have one to begin with. 

Let's grant the idea that a strobe in the wilderness did help in some circumstances. In this case I would propose that a AAA battery itself is a bad choice in this scenario. While running the strobe on high, as most are set to do, run-time for a AAA is only going to be 1-2 hours. You could reduce the output by half and increase the run-time to 4-5 hours but I'm not sure how this is going to improve an extended situation much. The little battery just doesn't pack the energy density and capacity to run for days or weeks, while flashing with enough energy to attract aircraft for example. Running the a strobe feature at 5-10 lumens to increase the run-time to 24-36 hours just doesn't sound very effective and after that time is up you're left with a dead battery and no signaling device at all for the near by, 48th hour helicopter. Additionally, I'm having to guess that you're actually talking about strobe mode and not a beacon type of mode. This could be made to flash longer than strobe because the cycle is slower and the percentage of off-to-on time raised. Still there is the fundamental problem of capacity. If I only had one light and one battery to start with, I'd likely be saving that battery for the most important tasks, including signaling actual seen or heard rescuers.

Certainly in our urban and rural settings the AAA light can still serve as an emergency signally device used during high probability or opportune instances. For those who venture into the wilderness or off the beaten path, I would hope that they're more prepared than to only have a AAA light in their pocket. Hopefully they have other emergency equipment such as extra batteries, a spare light and a way of lighting a fire if it should actually come to that. I just don't think that the addition of this one feature provides some decided advantage in this size application. In a "larger" flashlight, even something 18650 sized, a strobe that could run for days might help in that it could continue to signal even if you fell to sleep or were otherwise unable direct a beam of light toward a potential rescuer. Smaller lights would have to be saved and used at specific times though unless you had lots of spare batteries, in which case, why not just carry a more suitably dedicated light for strobing?


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## DM51 (Sep 14, 2009)

*Re: Diffusers are good reasons to have a hidden beacon/strobe mode*

davidt1... the strobe vs. no-strobe debate has been done to death in hundreds of stultifyingly boring and repetitive threads, and we're not going to pursue it here.

Back on topic, please.

_Edit: nicely and comprehensively answered by Patriot while I was posting._


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## Patriot (Sep 16, 2009)

Update on drilling out snap ring holes to a larger size.

I was eventually able to drill it using a diamond coated drill bit which went through it like is was nothing. I borrowed the bit, but after seeing how well it worked I might have to acquire my own basic, small set. I'll post pictures of the drilled and polished ring sometime this week. 

Thanks for the guidance guys. :wave:


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## abuhannibal (Sep 16, 2009)

Got myself two black Maratac's and an ITP upgraded version... love 'em all.  Has anybody found a mini-holster that fits well? I know it's kinda stupid, but I can't stand the thought of carrying them in my pocket and having them get scratched up by keys or whatever... TIA!

-- Bob


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## oronocova (Sep 16, 2009)

I wonder how it would fit in one of the little pouches for the Vic. Classic knives? Like http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=VN33550

Someone with both the light and knife/pouch might be kind enough to test.


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## SkunkWerx (Sep 16, 2009)

Patriot said:


> Update on drilling out snap ring holes to a larger size.
> 
> I was eventually able to drill it using a diamond coated drill bit which went through it like is was nothing. I borrowed the bit, but after seeing how well it worked I might have to acquire my own basic, small set. I'll post pictures of the drilled and polished ring sometime this week.
> 
> Thanks for the guidance guys. :wave:


 
:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs
Good Job!


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## abuhannibal (Sep 16, 2009)

Oronocova: Interesting, that might work. For $2.95 I might give it a try. If I do I'll post the results!


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## __philippe (Sep 16, 2009)

You might also try AW's small leather pouch originally designed for the JIL light.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=112729&highlight=leather

The Maratac AAA fits in *snugly*.

The Maratac's light diameter (14mm) allows for a perfect fit within the pouch..

However, because the Maratac is longer than the JIL (67mm vs 60mmm), 
the flap closure will not overlap the velcro grip quite completely.

Still, very serviceable, IMHO.

Cheers,

__philippe


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## Patriot (Sep 16, 2009)

abuhannibal said:


> Oronocova: Interesting, that might work. For $2.95 I might give it a try. If I do I'll post the results!



The Maratac is quite a bit longer than the mini Vic and may stick out beyond the pouch more than you might prefer. It's 9-10mm longer if that helps any. 

I'd probably lean towards *philippe's *idea in this case.


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## davidt1 (Sep 16, 2009)

Just get a glove and cut off a finger that fits the Maratac and use the keychain attachment of the Maratac to attach to the key chain. You will save money and more importantly space cos it will fit like a glove with no wasted space. Otherwise it's a $1 and 10 minute DIY job using either elastic band or bag strap if you want something fancier. But the glove finger would still give the best fit.


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## yammy (Sep 17, 2009)

Couldn't help but to get in on this clearly soon-to-be legendary thread on the Maratac AAA. I picked up a natural finish at first, then realized it was perfect for an application I had been thinking of, in which I needed (or wanted?) two of them:







The size and weight of these lights prove to work pretty well as mounted headlights. I have plans to upgrade the frames into some vintage safety glasses soon (these are just a pair of my old frames).

Of course, since these two lights were tied up I ended up having to get the stainless version to keep loose for carry purposes. :naughty:

Also, first post!!! 

Regards,
Sammy


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## nsx (Sep 18, 2009)

:welcome: 

Nice "mod"


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## davidt1 (Sep 18, 2009)

Good stuff there, yammy!


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## Flying Turtle (Sep 18, 2009)

Welcome to CPF, yammy, from just down the road. Nice use for those Maratacs.

Geoff


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## leukos (Sep 18, 2009)

Don't wear those in public too often.....


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## Patriot (Sep 18, 2009)

Nice job Yammy!

:welcome:


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## [email protected] (Sep 18, 2009)

Just discovered theses are reverse thread compactible with the e01. Body threads onto body and head threads onto head.


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## daytec (Sep 18, 2009)

me too flying turtle, and welcome yammy!


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## Patriot (Sep 18, 2009)

*


[email protected] said:



Just discovered theses are reverse thread compactible with the e01. Body threads onto body and head threads onto head.

Click to expand...

* 

Good info Random. This is a nice piece of information to have. With the popularity of the E01 being what it is, it's good to know that a head will work on an alternate body should anything ever happen to the original. Also good if one simply wants to play lego. It seems the E01 has a slightly more robust body for those desiring a more "tank-ish" AAA.


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## EngrPaul (Sep 18, 2009)

Patriot said:


> Good info Random. This is a nice piece of information to have. With the popularity of the E01 being what it is, it's good to know that a head will work on an alternate body should anything ever happen to the original. Also good if one simply wants to play lego. It seems the E01 has a slightly more robust body for those desiring a more "tank-ish" AAA.


 
What good is it if the head fits on a head? You need to put a battery in there, no?

Actually, the head fits the tail of an E0...


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## Patriot (Sep 18, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> What good is it if the head fits on a head? You need to put a battery in there, no?
> 
> Actually, the head fits the tail of an E0...





:thinking: Of course....  I read the words but it translated it in my brain that they were interchangeable.


Thanks Paul


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## Lynx_Arc (Sep 19, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Just discovered theses are reverse thread compactible with the e01. Body threads onto body and head threads onto head.



so now you can have a half SS E01 :laughing:


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## [email protected] (Sep 19, 2009)

Lynx_Arc said:


> so now you can have a half SS E01 :laughing:



Actually more of a waterproof 2aa carrier and a weird looking 2 headed thing. I wonder if some coin cells, cling wrap and tin foil would make a awesomely mini erm.... Thing.


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## abuhannibal (Sep 20, 2009)

Philippe: Thanks, I had spotted the AW holster but didn't think it would quite fit. Looks like I was wrong, happy to hear it!


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## gunga (Sep 21, 2009)

A quick question for all you folks polishing your SS Maratac. Did you polish the knurling too, or did you mask it off?

I can see how you would want to polish it to maintain the finish, but then is softens the knurling...


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## DoctaDink (Sep 21, 2009)

gunga said:


> A quick question for all you folks polishing your SS Maratac. Did you polish the knurling too, or did you mask it off?
> 
> I can see how you would want to polish it to maintain the finish, but then is softens the knurling...



I lightly sanded, then polished it on a buffing wheel which doesn't remove much metal. Just be careful 'cause that knurling can grab the wheel and......Zzzinnnng.


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## MKLight (Sep 21, 2009)

DoctaDink said:


> MKlight,
> Thanks.
> I looked for SS snap ring (retaining clip) at Lowes today...No luck. They said check with NAPA Auto parts.





MKLight said:


> Thanks! :twothumbs Will do...will also try to check Ace and True Value, too.




Any luck finding the snap rings? I think I gave up...oh well...lol
MK


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## Patriot (Sep 21, 2009)

Both Ace and Home Depot have them, they're just not SS. I would think that a SS snap ring would be a very rare thing to begin with since their function almost requires them to be made of spring steel. 







*gunga*, I originally masked my off and polished it but later performed another polishing which included the knurling. I went straight to the buffing wheel with mine but it didn't soften them very much. Next time I'll sand them slightly first and then buff.


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## [email protected] (Sep 21, 2009)

I just used thin strips of sandpaper. Since I accidentally removed the BB finish with a Dremel grinding wheel high polish looks really bad on it. So I gave it a satin finish with 400 grit.


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## Patriot (Sep 21, 2009)

Here's the most recent polishing attempt. You can see it's highly reflective yet the knurling was very much preserved. I also polished the snap ring so that it matches the light. Given that it's high carbon steel it may eventually show signs of light rust from pocket carry. If that happens I'll cold blue it next time. 









Pay no attention to the beam color as I had to photoshop some of the warmth out of the picture


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## MKLight (Sep 21, 2009)

Patriot - Nice pictures! I need to repolish mine!!! As for the snap rings, I haven't been successful in finding any material. I'll try again. Thanks for the suggestions! :twothumbs


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## leukos (Sep 22, 2009)

Very puurdy!! :thumbsup:


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## DoctaDink (Sep 22, 2009)

Patriot said:


> Both Ace and Home Depot have them, they're just not SS. I would think that a SS snap ring would be a very rare thing to begin with since their function almost requires them to be made of spring steel.
> 
> SS can be had, just hard to find locally in small quantities.
> 
> ...


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## Patriot (Sep 22, 2009)

DoctaDink said:


> SS can be had, just hard to find locally in small quantities.
> 
> http://www.saeproducts.com/retaining-rings.htmll





Wow! They even have beryllium and copper too. Should have known...:laughing:


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## gunga (Sep 22, 2009)

Group buy!


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## Lynx_Arc (Sep 22, 2009)

interesting ebay item
not sure what it looks like though


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## DoctaDink (Sep 22, 2009)

Lynx_Arc said:


> interesting ebay item



OUCH! $9 for one ring.


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## Lynx_Arc (Sep 22, 2009)

DoctaDink said:


> OUCH! $9 for one ring.



using a flat rate box though... probably expecting someone to order 1000 of them that way


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## Bort (Sep 28, 2009)

I bought a Maratac in ss, and love it. I did the Patriot snap ring deal for the keychain, and it makes a great back up edc.


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## davidt1 (Sep 29, 2009)

Finally found a great clip to replace the crappy factory clip.


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## javajoe (Sep 29, 2009)

Nice looking clip. I really like the Maratac AAA in the natural color. I'm hoping to make this my keychain light someday.


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## Calina (Sep 29, 2009)

davidt1 said:


> Finally found a great clip to replace the crappy factory clip.


 
Good for you but that doesn't help us a bit...
What is it? Where can we get it?


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## Paul6ppca (Sep 29, 2009)

Patriot,

What did you use to polish it to this level of brigh shinyness? My SS is on the way and i would like it to be polished to a mirror finish!



Patriot said:


> Here's the most recent polishing attempt. You can see it's highly reflective yet the knurling was very much preserved. I also polished the snap ring so that it matches the light. Given that it's high carbon steel it may eventually show signs of light rust from pocket carry. If that happens I'll cold blue it next time.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## davidt1 (Sep 29, 2009)

Calina said:


> Good for you but that doesn't help us a bit...
> What is it? Where can we get it?



It's this clip. It's no ordinary pencil clip. It's the strongest clip I have used. I broke a drill bit trying to drill through it. It makes the factory clip look like a piece of junk, which it is. If you buy it, make sure it's the metal one and made in Japan.


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## Patriot (Sep 30, 2009)

Bort said:


> I bought a Maratac in ss, and love it. I did the Patriot snap ring deal for the keychain, and it makes a great back up edc.




Thanks but can't take credit. Someone's else's good idea but I can't remember who without back reading pages.


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## Patriot (Sep 30, 2009)

Paul6ppca said:


> Patriot,
> 
> What did you use to polish it to this level of brigh shinyness? My SS is on the way and i would like it to be polished to a mirror finish!






Well, what I did use and what I'd use next time are two different things. If I had to start with a new light I'd sand the whole thing with 400 grit including the knurling. Then progress to 600, then 800, then I'd take it straight to the buffing wheel with the red jewler's rouge. Which was the final step on this light. It's not perfect so when it's get some scratches I'll put it in the chuck on the large drill press and take the sand paper to it. 

If you own or have access to a drill press or lathe, that really the best way of sanding them. You can cut strips of sandpaper to the exact width that you need in order to get to the difficult boundary between knurling and flats while letting is spin freely in the chuck.


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## applevision (Sep 30, 2009)

Late is the hour and late in this thread are we...

But I got my third Maratac AAA today and went for the Stainless this time.

I like it--I really do--but unlike the feeling I had when I went from LD01 aluminum to LD01 SS, this time I was not in love. I do think the way you guys have polished them is awesome and perhaps I should do this... but in truth, it's almost indistinguishable from my natural aluminum one! In fact, the main way I can tell which is which is by weight! And since the SS is heavier... it makes it just seem like a heavier version of my light!

So... the Aluminum stays on my keychain. Several months now and it still looks brand new. I'm glad they made the SS version for all the reasons we know and love, but I'm sticking with AL for now...

Okay, one other thought, perhaps slightly out of place... I compared the output with a new, freshly topped off Eneloop vs. an Energizer lithium batt... oh boy... Energizer Lithium all the way! Significantly brighter at all settings (which could be a negative in one respect since the low is now not as low) *and* much lighter to boot! 

It kills me b/c I want Eneloops to be the be all end all since they are guilt-free lumens (better for environment and for the wallet!) and since I have a bunch of them... but it's just not the case with this light.

For my Zebra headlight I use them and it is just right... but for this one, I just can't deal with the extra weight on my keychain (every ounce counts) now can I swallow the decreased lumens...

Oh dear...

Thanks guys!


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## Patriot (Sep 30, 2009)

...tried a 10440 yet applev?


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## AFAustin (Sep 30, 2009)

applevision said:


> I compared the output with a new, freshly topped off Eneloop vs. an Energizer lithium batt... oh boy... Energizer Lithium all the way! Significantly brighter at all settings



Well, maybe its just my old eyes, but, although there is clearly a difference in ny Maratac on an eneloop and on a 1.7v lithium, it's not very dramatic. (I only did a quick comparison on high, not med. or low.)


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## Patriot (Oct 1, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> Well, maybe its just my old eyes, but, although there is clearly a difference in ny Maratac on an eneloop and on a 1.7v lithium, it's not very dramatic. (I only did a quick comparison on high, not med. or low.)




I haven't found it to make much difference in my Maratacs either. In fact the lux readings on medium and low were about the same, although I never didn't anything but informal tests with them.


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## oronocova (Oct 1, 2009)

Patriot said:


> ...tried a 10440 yet applev?



Sorry, I know it was not directed at me but I searched this thread for 10440 and if you look at CC's website they don't recommend it.

That being said has anyone been running their light on 10440 for a while and if so how is it doing?


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## MojaveMoon07 (Oct 1, 2009)

Two part question. It would be handy for me to have the ability of this Maratac AAA to tail stand. But for myself I can't justify $ 8 for s&h. Is there *any* way to get countycomm to come down on the s&h price such as by asking them to use, say, USPS ?

So, if I end up having to get the ITP A3 EOS instead, could that be made to tail stand by putting the base in a cap such as a chapstick cap ?

Thank you in advance!


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## Lynx_Arc (Oct 1, 2009)

MojaveMoon07 said:


> Two part question. It would be handy for me to have the ability of this Maratac AAA to tail stand. But for myself I can't justify $ 8 for s&h. Is there *any* way to get countycomm to come down on the s&h price such as by asking them to use, say, USPS ?
> 
> So, if I end up having to get the ITP A3 EOS instead, could that be made to tail stand by putting the base in a cap such as a chapstick cap ?
> 
> Thank you in advance!


I don't know a lot about this place
http://www.endtimesreport.com/survival_shop.html
but shipping is a little cheaper at $4.95 for the SS version makes $34.90 instead of $36.00 or $1.10 cheaper.


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## Neill_Currie (Oct 1, 2009)

I have run my ITP and my Maratac on 10440 cells since new. Only issue is that they become hot on high (only), after a minute or so. All other levels the heat's the same as on a primary, but the lights are much brighter at all 3 levels on a 10440.


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## selfbuilt (Oct 1, 2009)

Neill_Currie said:


> I have run my ITP and my Maratac on 10440 cells since new. Only issue is that they become hot on high (only), after a minute or so. All other levels the heat's the same as on a primary, but the lights are much brighter at all 3 levels on a 10440.


Output and runtimes on various batteries are given in my review, although I only post the output level on 10440, not the runtime. Typically, ITP/Maratac output levels are slightly more than doubled when run on 10440 compared to standard batteries.

The reason I won't do the Hi mode 10440 runtime is that like the L0D/LD01, the ITP/Maratac lights are maximally driven direct-drive on Hi on 10440. Running this way is NOT recommended. 

In addition to heat on Hi (and the risk of thermal runaway destroying the emitter), I would estimate runtime is only ~10 mins to 50% (based on earlier L0D tests). By 15mins, you would be depleting the battery to dangerously low levels (i.e. <2.4V), and the cell should be discarded rather than attempting a recharge. But any way you look at it, you are drawing power faster than the battery was meant to deliver it (i.e. a >4C discharge rate, which is damaging to the cell). This means that over time, you would expect lower storage capacity to your 10440, and the risk of catastrophic failure increases. Just not worth the risk when dealing with Li-ion, IMO.

That being said, performance on Lo/Med on 10440 suggests these levels are safe for this battery source (i.e. output and discharge rates are acceptable). But again, the circuit doesn't have a low-voltage protection cut-off, so you risk over-depleting your cells if you don't top-up frequently (i.e. by the time you notice visible dimming, you are well below <2.7V and dropping fast.)


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## AFAustin (Oct 1, 2009)

I plum forgot to check selfbuilt's charts on the issue of eneloop vs. 1.7v lithium.  On high, there really doesn't seem to be much difference in output, just longer runtime on the lithium cell. 

applevision, use your eneloops with peace of mind!


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## tsask (Oct 1, 2009)

javajoe said:


> Nice looking clip. I really like the Maratac AAA in the natural color. I'm hoping to make this my keychain light someday.


 
Hope you can get the Maratac soon.:twothumbs It'll make your life in Howard County MD a lot better, especially at night!


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## applevision (Oct 1, 2009)

Patriot said:


> ...tried a 10440 yet applev?


Hee hee... trying to avoid more batteries... but I am tempted! 



AFAustin said:


> I plum forgot to check selfbuilt's charts on the issue of eneloop vs. 1.7v lithium.  On high, there really doesn't seem to be much difference in output, just longer runtime on the lithium cell.
> 
> applevision, use your eneloops with peace of mind!


Nice! Thanks! I feel better about it then.


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## SRC (Oct 1, 2009)

Yo! My first post.
Having read all about the Maratac I tried to order one only to find they aren't shipped out of the USA. So I've ordered an ITP one in stainless steel. I can't wait to get it!


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## Patriot (Oct 1, 2009)

Welcome to CPF *SRC* :wave:


Since the ITP is so close to the maratac it ought to work about great for you. They're sort of sister lights really.


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## javajoe (Oct 1, 2009)

tsask said:


> Hope you can get the Maratac soon.:twothumbs It'll make your life in Howard County MD a lot better, especially at night!


 
Indeed, are you in Howard County as well?


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## Patriot (Oct 2, 2009)

oronocova said:


> Sorry, I know it was not directed at me but I searched this thread for 10440 and if you look at CC's website they don't recommend it.
> 
> That being said has anyone been running their light on 10440 for a while and if so how is it doing?





I run my LODs and Maratacs on 10440's exclusively in daily use. The weak link in this case is the battery itself not the LED. It's not designed or tested to run at these discharge rates but evidently they're pretty darn robust. I still own my first 4 Ultrafire 10440's that I ever purchased about 3+ years ago. I used to operate one of those batteries in an original LOD luxIII. Obviously they don't perform like my newest batch of cells, but as long as they continue to charge to 4.1-4.2V I'm going to keep using them. Most of my charges have been performed with the Nano, but for the last year or so I've done about half of my 10440 charging on hobby grade thunderpower charger. 

Unless someone is well aquainted with unprotected li-ion use, I say don't use them until you've do a lot of reading on the subject. 

I believe there's also a lot of 10440 discussion in part 1 of this thread.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Oct 4, 2009)

Lynx_Arc said:


> I don't know a lot about this place
> http://www.endtimesreport.com/survival_shop.html
> but shipping is a little cheaper at $4.95 for the SS version makes $34.90 instead of $36.00 or $1.10 cheaper.


Thank you for your help and your suggestion!


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## Paul6ppca (Oct 8, 2009)

My polishing job,looks great in person,crappy camera.I just used polishing compound and my drill,looks great!


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## oronocova (Oct 8, 2009)

Thanks for the info on the 10440s ... I tried one in mine and yeah it's very useful on Med and low is still low, with High for spurts of "holy crap that little thing is bright." Just have to keep check on the voltage pretty often.


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## Patriot (Oct 8, 2009)

Paul, your SS Maratac looks great. Nice job! :thumbsup:


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## corvettesR1 (Oct 8, 2009)

Just wantd to jump in here and give a thumbs up on the maratac AAA light. I just picked one up in the natural color .Its got the 3 very useful light settings.i would recommend one to anyone looking for a small light .


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## davidt1 (Oct 10, 2009)

Just showing my Maratac some love with a new tactical clip. LOL


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## TNRonin (Oct 10, 2009)

I have a kydex sheath my buddy made for me. I love that I can take it off the keyring. 








I've got the clip off, I'll be putting it back on when I can remember.


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## max6166 (Oct 18, 2009)

I really, really want to swap the keyring on my Maratac for a 1/2" snap ring (retaining ring) like others have done. Unfortunately, I am having absolutely no luck finding someplace to buy the snap ring from. 

None of the hardware stores I have contacted carry snap rings, and it costs too much to order just one online from the places I have found. I am in Toronto, Canada.

Anyone have any pointers or suggestions?


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## syncytial (Oct 19, 2009)

Look for farm/industrial/automotive/fastener supply outfits, not just consumer-oriented hardware stores. I just looked at the *Princess Auto* web site, and there are three sets listed - 100 internal @ $4.99, 300 external @ $11.99 and 225 mixed stainless steel @ $24.99. Obviously, you'd like to buy one or two - not a lifetime supply, so off we go to...

*Acklands Grainger* shows a Dynaline 1/2" external for $0.42...

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AG...balProductDetailDisplay.do?item_code=DYL22931

It's not stainless, but it should do the job. If you want stainless, I'm sure you'll be able to find a supplier in the Toronto area.


Regards,

Syncytial.






max6166 said:


> I really, really want to swap the keyring on my Maratac for a 1/2" snap ring (retaining ring) like others have done. Unfortunately, I am having absolutely no luck finding someplace to buy the snap ring from.
> 
> None of the hardware stores I have contacted carry snap rings, and it costs too much to order just one online from the places I have found. I am in Toronto, Canada.
> 
> Anyone have any pointers or suggestions?


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## UpChUcK (Oct 19, 2009)

Here's some more Maratac AAA porn for ya. :wave:

A most excellent EDC light. It replaced my beloved Fenix L0D CE Q4 that I lost. The Chapstick cap diffuser idea was brilliant. I forget who gave me that idea here on CPF but thanks. I makes a wonderful nice micro-lantern. :thumbsup:

















More bars?


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## corvettesR1 (Oct 19, 2009)

Thats one light everyone should own :0 great pics:twothumbs


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## TooManyGizmos (Oct 19, 2009)

.
UpChUkIt ,

In pic No.2 .... your threads and contact points look a little dirty .

Got any ....... DeOxit on your work bench ?

.


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## max6166 (Oct 19, 2009)

syncytial said:


> Look for farm/industrial/automotive/fastener supply outfits, not just consumer-oriented hardware stores. I just looked at the *Princess Auto* web site, and there are three sets listed - 100 internal @ $4.99, 300 external @ $11.99 and 225 mixed stainless steel @ $24.99. Obviously, you'd like to buy one or two - not a lifetime supply, so off we go to...
> 
> *Acklands Grainger* shows a Dynaline 1/2" external for $0.42...
> 
> ...



Thanks very much for looking. Unfortunately, that still leaves me paying $12+ for a single retaining ring. 

Unless I am misunderstanding, internal snap rings won't work for this purpose, and Acklands Grainger doesn't sell to the general public. 

I have been able to find lots of distributors and manufacturers, but no retailers who sell them to the public at a reasonable price. The set of 300 for $11.99 you found at Princess Auto is the cheapest I have seen so far.

It's such a small, cheap thing. I would have thought there would be somewhere to order one online for a decent price.


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## gunga (Oct 19, 2009)

I found mine at a big Rona store (not the smaller ones). Costs a bit less than $1, so not cheap, but not bad.


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## Hack On Wheels (Oct 19, 2009)

max6166 said:


> Thanks very much for looking. Unfortunately, that still leaves me paying $12+ for a single retaining ring.
> 
> Unless I am misunderstanding, internal snap rings won't work for this purpose, and Acklands Grainger doesn't sell to the general public.
> 
> ...



I'm pretty sure that Acklands Grainger sells to the general public, why do you say that they don't? They have proper stores after all...


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## davidt1 (Oct 19, 2009)

That stock clip makes me cringe. What a mismatch!


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## max6166 (Oct 19, 2009)

Hack On Wheels said:


> I'm pretty sure that Acklands Grainger sells to the general public, why do you say that they don't? They have proper stores after all...



Their website stipulates that you must be a business to order. I'll check if the local branch is just an office or a full store. Still, 2 hours and $5 in transit for a 40 cent snap ring - aarrgghh... 

Ah well, thanks guys. I'll figure something out...


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## UpChUcK (Oct 19, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> .
> UpChUkIt ,
> 
> In pic No.2 .... your threads and contact points look a little dirty .
> ...



No DeOxIt yet.  But I did take that pic to show the dirtiness from the factory. :shrug: Any other chemicals that will be effective cleaning them?


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## TooManyGizmos (Oct 19, 2009)

A little alchohol ........ then DeOxit on the gold.

.


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## syncytial (Oct 20, 2009)

If you're not in a rush, I'll check the nearby Rona, and possibly other sources. No guarantees though.

I may be wanting a few for myself, since I seem to still be considering buying a few Maratacs. (What, more lights!!!)

PM me your address, and if I come up with a convenient source I'll mail one or two to you, unless Gunga gets there first! 

Regards,

Syncytial.

*Edit*: I dropped in at Rona tonight (tip of the hat to Gunga!) and picked up a few snap-rings. If you'd still like one (or two) I'll send you an envelope - assuming I get your address - no charge!






max6166 said:


> Their website stipulates that you must be a business to order. I'll check if the local branch is just an office or a full store. Still, 2 hours and $5 in transit for a 40 cent snap ring - aarrgghh...
> 
> Ah well, thanks guys. I'll figure something out...


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## max6166 (Oct 22, 2009)

syncytial said:


> *Edit*: I dropped in at Rona tonight (tip of the hat to Gunga!) and picked up a few snap-rings. If you'd still like one (or two) I'll send you an envelope - assuming I get your address - no charge!



Thank you very much, Syncytial! PM sent... :twothumbs


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## syncytial (Oct 22, 2009)

Got your PM. I'll pop the envelope in the mail in the morning before I head for the airport.

Syncytial.



max6166 said:


> Thank you very much, Syncytial! PM sent...


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## Patriot (Oct 23, 2009)

Great picture UpChuck. You reminded me to try the chapstick difusser, something that I keep forgetting about, thanks!



TNRonin, the kydex sheath is a trick little item, very nice. Tell you friend that if he started selling them he'd probably do well for himself.


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## applevision (Oct 24, 2009)

How does our little guy compare with the new 47s Preon I wonder? 

I can't wait for comparo! I ordered 2 of the new Preons... :twothumbs


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## Patriot (Oct 24, 2009)

I'm guessing the Preons ought to be pretty impressive. I'm not a 2 cell guy myself and will likely order one of the single cell versions. I'm guessing that, although not recommend that the 10440 should be as least as bright as the 2 cell version, which would make it one impressive light for short bursts. Judging from the pictures the Preon has a superior reflector to the Maratac but I reserve final judgement until I get my paws on one.


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## TooManyGizmos (Oct 24, 2009)

Patriot ,

Does it have a buck/boost circuit to allow the use of 4.2v ?

.


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## Gaius (Oct 25, 2009)

I love my Maratac it is so small I'm afraid to lose it. My latest buy is XTAR D30 Howitzer. Now I' have a Small light and a *Big* one in my collection.
The battery cell in the photo is a D size.


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## applevision (Oct 25, 2009)

Patriot said:


> I'm guessing the Preons ought to be pretty impressive. I'm not a 2 cell guy myself and will likely order one of the single cell versions. I'm guessing that, although not recommend that the 10440 should be as least as bright as the 2 cell version, which would make it one impressive light for short bursts. Judging from the pictures the Preon has a superior reflector to the Maratac but I reserve final judgement until I get my paws on one.



I'll be looking forward to your thoughts Patriot!


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## Patriot (Oct 26, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Patriot ,
> 
> Does it have a buck/boost circuit to allow the use of 4.2v ?
> 
> .





Sorry, don't know yet 2Many. The thread has already grown huge and I haven't taken the time to dig into that thread yet. I've only skimmed the surface posts. You're talking about the Preon I assume. 




AppleVision, ok but you might beat me to it. Nice to run into you over on the EDC forums btw. 





Nice picture Giaus. :wave:


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## TooManyGizmos (Oct 26, 2009)

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Patriot* 

 
_I'm guessing the Preons ought to be pretty impressive. I'm not a 2 cell guy myself and will likely order one of the single cell versions. *I'm guessing that, although not recommend that the 10440 should be as least as bright as the 2 cell version, which would make it one impressive light for short bursts.* Judging from the pictures the Preon has a superior reflector to the Maratac but I reserve final judgement until I get my paws on one._
......................................................................................................................
TMG Quote :
Patriot ,

Does it have a buck/boost circuit to allow the use of 4.2v ?
......................................................................................................................




Patriot said:


> Sorry, don't know yet 2Many. The thread has already grown huge and I haven't taken the time to dig into that thread yet. I've only skimmed the surface posts. You're talking about the Preon I assume.


...................................................................


Yep . Preon .
.


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## Flying Turtle (Oct 29, 2009)

Found a thin little magnet that's just right super glued to the tail of the Maratac.






Geoff


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## Lane (Nov 1, 2009)

I ordered my AL Maratac AAA yesterday (Saturday) and got my UPS shipping notice today (Sunday). Can't wait! California to Alabama...might take all week, dang it!:thumbsup:


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## Patriot (Nov 1, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Patriot*
> 
> 
> ...





Sorry *TooMany*, I don't know. I'm way behind the Preon curve and know very little about it at the moment. 



*Flying Turtle,* what does the magnet do? Just for sticking against metal surfaces and such?


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## Flying Turtle (Nov 2, 2009)

The magnet on the tail just gives me another way to hang it. I'd done this with an L0D and found it useful. 

I've noticed a slight flickering on low level. Doesn't seem to be contact related. It's not hardly noticeable, kind of like a real slow PWM. I don't think I've heard of anyone having this issue.

Geoff


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## Lynx_Arc (Nov 2, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> The magnet on the tail just gives me another way to hang it. I'd done this with an L0D and found it useful.
> 
> I've noticed a slight flickering on low level. Doesn't seem to be contact related. It's not hardly noticeable, kind of like a real slow PWM. I don't think I've heard of anyone having this issue.
> 
> Geoff



could be the magnet on the light is slightly disrupting the coil in it at low levels


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## JWP_EE (Nov 2, 2009)

Flying Turtle

My Matatac flickers on low just as you discribed it. About 20% of the time.


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## Patriot (Nov 2, 2009)

One of mine flickers occasionally on low also, but I suppose I always figured that was from using 10440's. Perhaps not though.


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## bansuri (Nov 8, 2009)

Now in a polished version!


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## Flying Turtle (Nov 8, 2009)

I'm happy to report the flickering seems to have stopped. Apparently it was a contact issue after all. 

Geoff


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## leukos (Nov 8, 2009)

bansuri said:


> Now in a polished version!


 
Now they just need to offer it with a warmer LED and it will just about be perfect!


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## AFAustin (Nov 8, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> I'm happy to report the flickering seems to have stopped. Apparently it was a contact issue after all.
> 
> Geoff



Geoff, 

Anything special you did to get the flickering on low to stop?

Thanks.

Andrew


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## EXCALIBUR1 (Nov 8, 2009)

bansuri said:


> Now in a polished version!


I just ordered three (3) Maratac Polished Stainless Steel AAA flashights. I think they will make excellent Christmas gifts.:thumbsup:


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## Patriot (Nov 8, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> Geoff,
> 
> Anything special you did to get the flickering on low to stop?
> 
> ...






Lay some 320 or finer grit sand paper on a solid, flat surface. Remove the head. Stand the body, open end first on the sand paper and give 2-3 gentle twists. Clean off with an alcohol rag. Q-tip the inside of the head with an alcohol swap. Re-lube with Nyogel or a bit of lithium grease for the stainless version and reassemble. That should take care of it.


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## Patriot (Nov 8, 2009)

Nick at CC sent me these larger pictures...


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## steamfish (Nov 8, 2009)

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet! ;p


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## AFAustin (Nov 9, 2009)

Patriot said:


> Lay some 320 or finer grit sand paper on a solid, flat surface. Remove the head. Stand the body, open end first on the sand paper and give 2-3 gentle twists. Clean off with an alcohol rag. Q-tip the inside of the head with an alcohol swap. Re-lube with Nyogel or a bit of lithium grease for the stainless version and reassemble. That should take care of it.



Patriot, 

Thanks for the suggestion. I gave it a try, but unfortunately the flickering is still there. It is only on low. Sometimes it doesn't start immediately, but only after maybe 30 sec. or so. Other times, it starts as soon as you turn it to low. Strange....


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## Flic (Nov 9, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> Patriot,
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. I gave it a try, but unfortunately the flickering is still there. It is only on low. Sometimes it doesn't start immediately, but only after maybe 30 sec. or so. Other times, it starts as soon as you turn it to low. Strange....



Mine has begun to do the same. Flickers only on low and may or may not flicker right away. Strange indeed! Still love the light though.


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## AFAustin (Nov 9, 2009)

Flic said:


> Mine has begun to do the same. Flickers only on low and may or may not flicker right away. Strange indeed! Still love the light though.



Hi, Flic. Yep, me, too---great little light.

If the low level flickering is something in the circuit, that is way beyond my abilities to repair. I was hoping for a simple fix.

Andrew


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## Flying Turtle (Nov 9, 2009)

The only thing I did to seemingly stop the flickering was crank down a bit harder when going into low. I think I need to check mine again. Reading these similar reports has me wondering if it's really okay.

Geoff


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## Patriot (Nov 9, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. I gave it a try, but unfortunately the flickering is still there. It is only on low. Sometimes it doesn't start immediately, but only after maybe 30 sec. or so. Other times, it starts as soon as you turn it to low. Strange....





Sorry Austin. Worth a try I guess. Now that you mention it, if it's only happening in low, that pretty much rules out a contact fault. One of my lights, the natural HA one, does it every now and then but I had always suspected it was due to the 10440 I use in it.


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## sabre7 (Nov 9, 2009)

Patriot said:


> Sorry Austin. Worth a try I guess. Now that you mention it, if it's only happening in low, that pretty much rules out a contact fault. One of my lights, the natural HA one, does it every now and then but I had always suspected it was due to the 10440 I use in it.



I noticed flickering in mine on low when using a weak NiCd but it disappears when using a fully charged battery. Haven't noticed problem with fully charged lithium either. Maybe it is a battery instead of contact issue?? :thinking:


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## bondr006 (Nov 9, 2009)

Well, I finally became a member of the exclusive Maratac club today. The UPS man brought me this beautiful little SS Maratac this afternoon. What a nice little light. I like having just the 3 levels with nothing else to cycle through. I also like the beam better than my LOD Q4. She's a keeper, and will be pulling EDC duty from now on.






About 2 feet from the wall


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## Patriot (Nov 10, 2009)

Nice pictures Bond006. My Maratacs replaced my LOD's also.



I received my electro polished SS AAA this morning and all I can say is "wow!" The finish is so smooth it looks chrome plated or perhaps like liquid metal. It makes my polishing job on my first AAA light look like garbage quite honestly. If you wanted a polished Maratac don't even bother trying to do is yourself, just buy the electro polished. It'll save you about half a day of labor and sore fingers.











The pics aren't the best, since they're from the small camera, but you get the idea.


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## TooManyGizmos (Nov 10, 2009)

That beam shot can be smoothed out a little with some diffuser material on the lens .... if you like ?


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## KDOG3 (Nov 10, 2009)

I like the new polished SS version. I am still leary of them cuz I just can't help thinking they will have heat issues being SS. Anyone report any issues from heat with them?


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## davidt1 (Nov 10, 2009)

All versions can not handle heat well cos of the thin battery compartment. I wish they made it even with the head like the LF2XT, new Preons, etc. There are several benefits to this even one tube design: more heatsink; fits in pockets better; easier to put clip on; easier to reverse clip. Still a good light. I have one.


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## KDOG3 (Nov 10, 2009)

Oh I have a black one. In my pocket all the time. But of course its aluminum which handles heat better than steel...


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## Patriot (Nov 10, 2009)

Sure, there are technical differences in materials but what does it really mean in real world use? I can testify to the fact that I pay little little difference between the aluminum and SS versions and they're all still working admirably. For those of you who don't know, I'm running all four of mine on 10440's and and sometimes on medium they get uncomfortably hot. One might argue, "they might be working but your degrading the LED." Well, that may be the case but so far that's not happening according to the light meter. During my ceiling bounce tests of my newest light, I found that my most used aluminum light is actually still the brightest of the bunch. The next brightest was another older light, my first one, and my newest light was the third brightest. Obviously one man's experience doesn't speak for all examples but take into consideration that we haven't heard reports of other failures either. Add to that the fact than SS LDO1 had a good reputation as well and I think the SS thermal concerns may be overstated in this application. 

One point to note regarding the thermal pathway from the head to the body, it doesn't seem to be slow for either material. If I turn the light on high and set it on the desk body temperature starts to rise within 5-10 seconds according the the infrared thermometer. This leads me to think that the pathway is sufficient.

A last observation of my new EP SS Maratac reveals a perfectly centered LED and a HOP, highly reflective reflector. My other lights have more of a frosted or matt finish. Even though this new one measured 1.4 lux less in the ceiling bounce test it's by far the best throwing AAA light that I own now. I'm very happy!

Keep up the great work County Comm! :twothumbs


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## Bearcat (Nov 10, 2009)

Crap! I got to have one.


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## sabre7 (Nov 10, 2009)

I had a polished iTP version. The stainless steel finish appeared to be some sort of plating, not mechanically polished. The difference can be seen in Patriots photos.


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## Patriot (Nov 11, 2009)

electro polishing


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## CampingLED (Nov 11, 2009)

With an extra 1mm in length the protected 10440's have surfaced. Question: will it fit in the Maratac, and will they design for the 10440 battery as well? Previously all designers were stating that the unprotected batteries should not be used. Now they need to relook their strategy and disclaimers.


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## Patriot (Nov 11, 2009)

CampingLED said:


> With an extra 1mm in length the protected 10440's have surfaced. Question: will it fit in the Maratac, and will they design for the 10440 battery as well? Previously all designers were stating that the unprotected batteries should not be used. Now they need to relook their strategy and disclaimers.




I don't own a protected 10440 so I'm not sure if the extra 1mm still works. I suspect that as long as it's only 1mm it should work fine.

I know that many manufacturers warn against unprotected batteries but many also warn against 10440 use specifically, mainly due to the voltage issue and not just the lack of protection circuit.


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## Patriot (Nov 11, 2009)

CampingLED said:


> With an extra 1mm in length the protected 10440's have surfaced.




Hey CampingLED, I just discovered over in the battery section that they're saying the protected Trustfire is 2mm longer. I'd say that's going to be pushing things and I sort of have my doubts. I suspect that a number of AAA lights are going to have difficulty with 2mm longer cells.


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## DoctaDink (Nov 11, 2009)

The new electro-polished one is nice. I like it better than my own hand polished veriosn. .. I could never quite get into the knurling. I wish they would sell the stainless clip so I could replace the original black one.


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## chokker (Nov 11, 2009)

i just ordered the ss and a natural :huh:


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## Patriot (Nov 11, 2009)

chokker said:


> i just ordered the ss and a natural :huh:





ss polished or blasted? I'm pretty sure this polished one is my new fav. It feels and looks like a $50 light.


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## Bearcat (Nov 11, 2009)

I just ordered a couple yesterday in black and natural. What's the deal I've been reading about the heads breaking off? http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2865756840103197293PmKrZN


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## HitecDrftr (Nov 11, 2009)

Wow! They must have torqued the hell out of that, given that it happened above the threads. Reminds me of some of the soda cans I have "torn" when I go to crunch them up before throwing them out. The metal looks pretty thin at that point in the light and I can see this happening if you are a bit too rough.

Did I just hear a collective "Oh [email protected]#"?


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## Patriot (Nov 11, 2009)

That's the second picture I've seen of one that broke there. I wonder how much force was required to do that?


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## Lynx_Arc (Nov 11, 2009)

maybe someone was trying to take it apart.....


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## sabre7 (Nov 12, 2009)

Lynx_Arc said:


> maybe someone was trying to take it apart.....



+1


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## d1337 (Nov 12, 2009)

DoctaDink said:


> The new electro-polished one is nice. I like it better than my own hand polished veriosn. .. I could never quite get into the knurling. I wish they would sell the stainless clip so I could replace the original black one.


+ l


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## Bearcat (Nov 12, 2009)

Patriot said:


> That's the second picture I've seen of one that broke there. I wonder how much force was required to do that?




Someone posted that the head broke off their light when it fell out of their pant's pocket and hit the floor. About a three foot drop.


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## Patriot (Nov 13, 2009)

Thanks Bearcat. Doesn't seem like much force if it's true.








Some various reflector shots.


....................Frosted.......................................Semi Frosted........................................OP.


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## lightcacher (Nov 13, 2009)

Bearcat said:


> Someone posted that the head broke off their light when it fell out of their pant's pocket and hit the floor. About a three foot drop.



This is one reason I got the stainless steel version.


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## Bearcat (Nov 14, 2009)

lightcacher said:


> This is one reason I got the stainless steel version.




I wished that I had not got caught up in the feeding frenzy and waited until there were some reliable reviews out. If I could have a do-over, I would order the stainless steel versions as well. :mecry:


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## Patriot (Nov 15, 2009)

Bearcat said:


> I wished that I had not got caught up in the feeding frenzy and waited until there were some reliable reviews out. If I could have a do-over, I would order the stainless steel versions as well. :mecry:





There have been many of opinions and reviews of the aluminum light and nearly everything about it is positive. You've got a great light. I don't know what the sales numbers are but I suspect the aluminum lights still outsell the SS lights by a good margin. Just because one or two people broke their lights doesn't mean yours is going to brake. You can always sell it and purchase the SS as well if you desire.


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## d1337 (Nov 15, 2009)

i think that Patriot is right. I've only seen two pictures of broken Maratacs in all of the pictures I've seen. I think that if these lights were fragile then we would have heard a ton more about it. I haven't had any issues with either of mine. I even dropped one of them with my keys off a third story porch onto tar without any problems. I would usually expect that a light survive this unscathed but it did. 
I prefer the light weight of aluminum and the thermal management properties it has over SS. Now if I could just buy a few of those clips that go on the new polished SS models that would rock.


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## Flying Turtle (Nov 15, 2009)

I wish I could come up with a logical reason to get a shiny one. Maybe I should see just how strong my black one is. No doubt a new model will emerge the minute I buy the stainless one.

Geoff


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## bondr006 (Nov 15, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> I wish I could come up with a logical reason to get a shiny one. Maybe I should see just how strong my black one is. No doubt a new model will emerge the minute I buy the stainless one.
> 
> Geoff




Oh jeeze Geoff! What the heck does logic have to do with it? Have you already forgotten our conversation we had last night? Quit hemming and hawing, and just get the dang thing...It's shiny! :laughing:


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## Flying Turtle (Nov 15, 2009)

You got me there, Rob. Logical reasons have never gotten in the way of a light purchase before. And, it is shiny.

Geoff


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## bondr006 (Nov 15, 2009)

I knew I was right....:nana:


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## TITAN1833 (Nov 15, 2009)

I can't seem to get Maratac here in the UK so I had to settle for ITP A3 EOS,I must try harder to get a shiny Maratac at some point, how? I don't know yet :thinking:

That said I'm loving the ITP EOS upgrade, simple light but dammed effective I must say and great bang for the buck :thumbsup:

One thing I really liked about the Maratac is its ability to tailstand,you wont miss this until you have a light like the ITP JMO these small lights should all have this option to tailstand as they can be used like little candles when needed 


Anyway for now I did a little mod that can be reversed if necessary and no damage to the light,I use a nylon spacer which BTW I can add a magnet to also if needed :thumbsup:

mag's dimensions are thus 10mm dia x 1mm thick,the spacer is one used in book binding it's 10 mm dia tapering to 12 mm dia and 4mm thick this is the main thing,you could use any spacer 12 mm dia x 4 mm thick without the taper it's just what I had around 



























Not ideal but it works,I would prefer the Maratac TBH but we cant have everything I guess :thumbsup: or can we


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## mccririck (Nov 15, 2009)

Are there any differences between the Maratac and ITP?


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## davidt1 (Nov 15, 2009)

mccririck said:


> Are there any differences between the Maratac and ITP?



I think the poster right above you said something about the Maratac can tail stand and the ITP can not. He even has pictures of his mod showing that he can make his ITP tail stand like the Maratac or something like that.


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## HKJ (Nov 15, 2009)

mccririck said:


> Are there any differences between the Maratac and ITP?



Lots of physical differences, but the electronic is the same. You can see photos of both in my Danish review.


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## Lynx_Arc (Nov 15, 2009)

davidt1 said:


> I think the poster right above you said something about the Maratac can tail stand and the ITP can not. He even has pictures of his mod showing that he can make his ITP tail stand like the Maratac or something like that.



The ITP has a lug on the end of it where the keychain attaches that has to be ground off if you want to tailstand it or you will have to mod it some other way


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## davidt1 (Nov 15, 2009)

Lynx_Arc said:


> The ITP has a lug on the end of it where the keychain attaches that has to be ground off if you want to tailstand it or you will have to mod it some other way



mccririck asked about the differences between the lights. Your response was probably meant for him.


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## Patriot (Nov 16, 2009)

Titan, I really like your flat base and magnet solution. Very useful.


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## Robocop (Nov 16, 2009)

This has became pretty large and lets close it to continue in part 4


----------

