# Adjusting an AXA holder for the 8x Lathe ...



## wquiles (Sep 27, 2009)

This is for forum member *Tekno_Cowboy*, but it might be useful for anyone with the 8x lathe. The problem is that sometimes the holders will not go low enough in the AXA tool post, so cutting a little bit of the holder is all that is needed to get clearance.

Here is what I mean:












I actually had to work hard on this one. The main adjusting bolt was seized in position!. I tried first with my new-to-me Heinrich vise, now modified with the PA (pumping action - thanks to Barry for another great buy!), but it would not budge:






I actually had to use a propane torch to get the screw free!:






I had no diagrams nor notes on how I cut them before, but for some reason (luck?) I had "some" pictures of when I did it last time. As luck would have it, one of the photos (second one above) was of the side view, so I printed a hard copy. Here you can see Travis' AXA holder in th left, and one of my own BXA holders in the right:






My taking some measurements I discovered that the hard copy was almost exactly a 2:1 of the actual holder!. By using a good ruler I was able to get the dimensions I needed for the mill:






I also got the thick squared bushings that Barry recommended, and like he said, they do a MUCH better job of clamping down stuff:











Now, before I get to cut metal - a question. How do you guys align the vise to the table? I use a machinist 90deg square, and align the edge of the vise to the edge of the table - is there a better way?:
















OK, more tool porn! - I finally got the quick handle for my Kurt vise - man what a difference!
















OK, finally(!), we are cutting Travis' holder. It took like 5-10x more time to set up than to cut it - just 3 pases and it was done:
















Then a quick job on the vise with a sharp file, and it was done:
















Leaves tomorrow with the Trigon holder/inserts 

Edit: Opps, forgot to add the pics of the modified tool as well (being 5/8" is too tall for the 1/2" holder). This cutter is great and tough, but does not leave a "pretty" finish:

























Will


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## gadget_lover (Sep 27, 2009)

Looks good. I never take such good pictures.

Aligning the vice is usually done by indicating off the fixed jaw of the vise. The indicator is fixed to the head (or in the spindle) and the vice is tapped till you can run across the face and get the desired deflection.

Many use a 'key' on the bottom of the vise to locate it the same every time. That assumes that your slots are true and you put it back the same every time.

Daniel


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## darkzero (Sep 27, 2009)

Will nice work & documentation as always! Thanks for originally posting in that thread. I followed it & got my parting blade holder milled the same way. :twothumbs










One thing I'd like to add, only my parting blade holder is milled that way. When the holders are notched this way you are limited in having to use the compound set at 90deg. I find that with the 8x14 since the bed length is limited I find it more comfortable with the compound set at 60deg to give a bit more breathing room for the tailstock. So whenever I need to use that parting blade holder I have to readjust to 90 deg. I use another parting blade more than this one but I still do use it occassionally. Here's the problem when the compound is not at 90deg.









I don't use anything smaller than 3/8" so I decided to have all my holders (except the v notched ones) milled across the entire face of the bottom. This allows me to use 1/2" tools at any angle I want. Especially important as my external threader is 1/2". The cutter height of all my 1/2" tools runs along the same line as the top of the shank so I never need the holders notched as deep as my parting blade holder. I had all my holders milled 0.040" off the bottom. This gives just enough room to allow the cutter go just below the centerline of the work piece if needed. My v notched holders I use for boring bars & even the 1/2" bar does not require the holder to be milled. 









Since the LM holders are alreader shortened, I thought about the loss in integrity of the holder with an aditional 0.040" removed. I'm not worried as I haven't noticed any signs of rigidity. It's only a mini so I don't beat on it anyway.












Hmm, maybe I should send you that parting blade holder to get modified so I can use it how I want?


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## Tekno_Cowboy (Sep 27, 2009)

One solution I've been considering is to have the compound milled down anywhere that the QCTP can touch. If I can lower the QCTP, then all the tools will be lowered too.


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## precisionworks (Sep 27, 2009)

> How do you guys align the vise to the table?


Exactly what Daniel said - indicate the fixed jaw until there's no more than .001" difference from one end to the other. If you have an Interapid, the adjustable stem will fit in either a drill chuck or a small collet. Or clamp an Indicol holder to the spindle & mount the dial test indicator on that.


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## modamag (Sep 28, 2009)

will, while your're at it with indicating your vice, also tram the head.


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## wquiles (Sep 28, 2009)

gadget_lover said:


> Looks good. I never take such good pictures.
> 
> Aligning the vice is usually done by indicating off the fixed jaw of the vise. The indicator is fixed to the head (or in the spindle) and the vice is tapped till you can run across the face and get the desired deflection.
> 
> Many use a 'key' on the bottom of the vise to locate it the same every time. That assumes that your slots are true and you put it back the same every time.





precisionworks said:


> Exactly what Daniel said - indicate the fixed jaw until there's no more than .001" difference from one end to the other. If you have an Interapid, the adjustable stem will fit in either a drill chuck or a small collet. Or clamp an Indicol holder to the spindle & mount the dial test indicator on that.


Thank you - I will do that next time.




modamag said:


> will, while your're at it with indicating your vice, also tram the head.


Yup, I think you are right, and probably why the finish was not as good as it could be.




darkzero said:


> Hmm, maybe I should send you that parting blade holder to get modified so I can use it how I want?


Send it over - I will "fix" it for you. Send me an email


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## Tekno_Cowboy (Sep 30, 2009)

Got the tool and holder today :twothumbs:

It just barely fits, even with the modifications. It looks like I'm going to be taking in my compound to have it ground down...


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## wquiles (Sep 30, 2009)

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> Got the tool and holder today :twothumbs:
> 
> It just barely fits, even with the modifications. It looks like I'm going to be taking in my compound to have it ground down...



I guess doing it from pictures alone was almost OK 

If you let me know from where to cut, and now much, I will be more than happy to cut some more, for free of course 

Will


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## Tekno_Cowboy (Sep 30, 2009)

No worries, it's not anything to do with the work you did. 

The problem is that there's less than 1 full thread of engagement between the locking nut and the height adjustment screw when the tool is set to the correct depth. 

A longer screw, or an "adjusted" compound will do the trick.


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