# Sealed Beam questions and Burgess Radar-Lite



## thunderlight (Jul 30, 2008)

Hi,

Picked up a Burgess Radar-Lite. What I know about it is that it uses a 928 6 volt lantern battery and it incorporates a sealed beam unit. I don't know at the moment whether it works. So a few questions:

The sealed beam filament seems to be intact, so does this mean the sealed beam component is likely to work?

Is the sealed beam component replaceable -- can I use an energizer sealed beam as a replacement?

How do I replace the sealed beam, do I disconnect the wires from the old sealed beam component and reconnect them to the new sealed beam component?

Etc.

Thanks,
Bob

EDIT: Removed "help" icon as it is no longer applicable.


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## lctorana (Jul 30, 2008)

thunderlight said:


> The sealed beam filament seems to be intact, so does this mean the sealed beam component is likely to work?


Yes. Unequivocally. Try across the terminals with an ohmmeter if you'tre not sure. If the filament is intact, it will work.



thunderlight said:


> Is the sealed beam component replaceable -- can I use an energizer sealed beam as a replacement?


Yes.
The best sealed-beam light bulbs are the following GE bulbs:
GE 4546 (4.7V 0.5A 6300MSCP)
GE 4547 (4.75V 1.25A 20000MSCP)
But any PAR-36 bulb with a nameplate rating around the 4.8V mark will work - just check that the screw terminals on the back look right.



thunderlight said:


> How do I replace the sealed beam, do I disconnect the wires from the old sealed beam component and reconnect them to the new sealed beam component?


Short answer is yes. Not sure how you get the bulb out mechanically in this model; the bezel may be threaded, or there may be a nut&bolt at the back of the head. Examine closely and be gentle!



thunderlight said:


> Etc.


The answer to this question is the switch. 99.99% of all sealed-beam lantern issues revolve around getting the switch working properly.

Assume the contacts are corroded, and have gone high-resistance. The Radar-Lite looks like it has a slide switch, so it's not really replaceable without destroying originality. Blast the internal contacts, as best as you can reach them, with "Switch Cleaner/Lubricant" until it is nice and low-resistance (less than 0.4 ohms) in ther ON position.
Then hit it with De-Oxit. Once you are down to 0.2 ohms or less, give it a shot of ProGold, and you are good to go.

But if even after all that, the switch still has too much resistance to light the bulb enough, all is still not lost.

Anyway, get yourself a battery and try it out and let us know.


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## thunderlight (Jul 30, 2008)

Hi lctorana,

Thanks. Will keep everybody posted. I definitely want to see how this works.


Note: Flashlight / Lantern appears identical to:

http://www.flashlightmuseum.com/Bur...d-Plastic-Switch-and-Trim-Sealed-Beam-6V-1956


Edited: Corrected link to picture on the Flashlight Museum.


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## lctorana (Jul 30, 2008)

Yup, that's what Google found for me, too.

(Showed me the switch but not how the head or bezel is fastened.)


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## thunderlight (Jul 30, 2008)

To get to the bulb, you just unscrew the red bezel and the bulb comes right out. I silicone greased this bezel. Fortunately, the one I've got seems to be very clean and lightly used, so hopefully the switch will be ok.


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## thunderlight (Aug 1, 2008)

Obtained a 918 battery and works like a charm.

Thank you Ictorana :thumbsup:


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## audai (Aug 2, 2008)

THANK U VERY MUTCH ..


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