# Orange/Yellow 2D Industrial/Safety Flashlights



## EscapeVelocity (Feb 14, 2013)

Who made the best?

Fulton
Bright Star
Mallory/Duracell
Rayovac
Energizer
Other

I see that there are some LED models now and also that there are a few 3D versions.


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## EscapeVelocity (Feb 15, 2013)

Paging ericjohn. You out there?


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## YAK-28 (Feb 17, 2013)

pelican, streamlight and underwater kinetics make some pretty good "indusrtial" lights you might look at.


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## ericjohn (Feb 19, 2013)

Sorry I haven't been on here in the past few days. My sincere apologies.

I would say that the Bright Star 22xx incancescent and LED models are the best. Also the Rayovac Industrials from the 1990s and the Eveready/Energizer 125x, 135x and 1151 Industrials from the 1990's and 2000's are also excellent choices. I have had no good experience with Pelican. Also I forgot to mention in the PM I sent you that I also have a UK Mini Q40 (xenon model.) I didn't list it as industrial, because I consider it more of a diving flashlight. It is also a VERY good flashlight; made in USA, waterproof, rugged, long lasting bulb.

The Fultons I have had were the MX military lights, and I have had NO luck with them. I have only owned tactical Streamlights, so I have no idea about their industrial line.

I hope I have been helpful.


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## EscapeVelocity (Feb 19, 2013)

Thanks ericjohn for sharing your experience with these class of flashlights with me. If you dont mind, Ill post the PM you sent me, so that others may benefit from your knowledge that you took the time to share with me. 



> Well, I like the explosion proof models most. I don't know why except for the fact that they are common in my area (South Louisiana.) We have plenty of sugar refining, oil production, grain storage, chemical processing and people working on boats. Incandescent explosion proof flashlights are significantly dimmer than a flaslight with a Krypton bulb. This is because the surface temparature of a bulb filled with a noble gas is much hotter than a vacuum bulb. This keeps the flashlight's temparature below the ignition point of the hazardous dust or vapor that it is approved to be used in. I try to buy only American Made lights, but I have experience with both. IMHO I find smooth reflectors out preform faceted ones. I don't know who brilliant idea (sarcastic) was it to start making those damn things. I will attempt to list, describe and review every industrial flashlight I have ever owned or used.
> 
> Rayovac Industrial 2D (1990's version.) I have had mine for 13 years and counting. It is actually the flashlight that I have had the longest. It has always preformed wonderfully and has a uniform beam. It came with a powerful, high quality PR Krypton bulb. American Made. Bought it from Wal-Mart when I was 13. smooth reflector.
> 
> ...


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## EscapeVelocity (Feb 19, 2013)

Do any of these use metal reflectors, ericjohn? Or are they all plastic?


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## StarHalo (Feb 19, 2013)

I had a UK back in the incan days, would still rate it my all-time fave of all the incans I ever owned.

Been watching lots of X-Files on Hulu lately, Scully and Mulder used the UK 3C model constantly..


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## EscapeVelocity (Feb 19, 2013)

It's difficult to discern which of the Rayovac, Energizer, and Duracell lights are made in the USA. So Im sticking with Brightstar or Fulton.

I have 3 Pelican 4AA Stealthlites that for years were my favorite flashlights. I also like the Pelican 2C Sabrelite. Underwater kinetics looks to have some nice lights too, I like the looks of the 4AA model. But I class these are more akin to dive lights than industrials.

Great that there are so many US manufacturers of flashlights! I thought things were more dire!


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## StarHalo (Feb 19, 2013)

I've always liked the look of the Fulton NRG series - full GITD body!


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## EscapeVelocity (Feb 24, 2013)

StarHalo said:


> I've always liked the look of the Fulton NRG series - full GITD body!



Pretty cool!


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## mcnair55 (Feb 24, 2013)

Try Wolf Atex for those type of lights.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Feb 24, 2013)

Interesting UK company...never heard of them. 

Here is their site with detailed specs:

Link


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## EscapeVelocity (Feb 25, 2013)

I have an earlier (perhaps 80s or early 90s) version of the Bright Star 2224 3D cell light coming...


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## StarHalo (Feb 25, 2013)

"Circuit Breaker equipped"? What's that?


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## LEDAdd1ct (Feb 25, 2013)

If the incandescent bulb breaks, instead of arcing and potentially causing an explosion in a methane rich environment,
it breaks the circuit.

Very important if using an incandescent in an atmosphere with volatile gases; 
of little to no importance for the general public.


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## StarHalo (Feb 25, 2013)

Ah, well that'd be more impressive if it weren't for the metal switch and lanyard, but a nice safety feature none the less..


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## LEDAdd1ct (Feb 25, 2013)

I suppose they felt the danger from a flashing filament was greater than a metal switch and metal loop/hanger.


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## EscapeVelocity (Feb 26, 2013)

Maybe that is why they went to plastic switches and rings.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Feb 26, 2013)

That is a noble ideal, but I am far more inclined to believe it was a matter of reducing expenses
rather than increasing safety.


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## ericjohn (Feb 27, 2013)

Some metals when struck against any surface, don't produce a spark "hot" enough to cause an explosion. At least that is what I read. An Aluminum switch or ring would produce a much hotter spark than say a stainless steel one. Stainless steel is possibly safer, depending on the characteristics of the hazardous material. I prefer a plastic switch since it is much more impact forgiving AND I would want a plastic hanger ring just to be on the safe side. I have never worked in those type of environments and as far as I can see, I probably never will. However, since I would like to consider myself to be more intelligent on flashlights than the average person, I would like to use that knowledge for the common good of anyone else. I would definitely want to protect our American workers who keep this country afloat the best I could, given the opportunity. 

The Bright Star 2217 LED is all plastic on the outside, and no metal piece is exposed. The only real danger is from the optional S-biner that comes with it. It is mostly plastic, but has two metal latches. They appear to be stainless steal, which again produces a cold spark. It is the safest flashlight out there at the moment and the S-biner can easily be removed completely from the light itself. Much better to carry the light in your back pocket. Hope I have been helpful.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Mar 5, 2013)

ericjohn, could you please recommend to me _one_ 2D flashlight which meets the following criteria:

1) Reasonably sealed against rain and puddles
2) Heavy duty, tough, impact resistant plastic
3) Extremely reliable switch 
4) Switch which can still be operated under slippery conditions
5) Comfortable to hold for extended periods of time

In essence, I am looking for _the_ flashlight to own of this type. 

Is the Bright Star 1618 "it" even though they may be expensive?

Or a different unit altogether?

I've noticed there are yellow 1618 lights out there marked "Continuity" tester. The hole in the bottom would obviously let water in.

There is also a black version of the 1618 with a red bezel. 

Impact resistance, switch reliability, durability, operation of switch in slippery conditions:

Which is _the_ light to own?


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## foreman (Mar 9, 2013)

one of the top makers ..... pelican.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Mar 9, 2013)

foreman said:


> one of the top makers ..... pelican.



+



ericjohn said:


> I have had no good experience with Pelican.



ericjohn, could you please explain?


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## ericjohn (Mar 10, 2013)

LEDAdd1ct said:


> +
> 
> 
> 
> ericjohn, could you please explain?




Well; I have owned several Pelican flashlights and they gave me nothing but trouble. I have purchased 3 Mity Lite 1900's. The first one's lamp module burnt out way too early. The second one had a gasket that kept coming out of place, making it nearly impossible to turn the head. The third one I bought for my wife's purse and it works fine (keep in mind that it is hardly ever used.) I owned a Super Sabre Lite 2000 and used it when I was an HVAC tech. It worked well for a while and came in handy in attics and under houses, but physical shock killed the bulb one day (I thought these damn things were supposed to be rugged.) I had a Mity Lite 2 AA. (I don't remember the exact model number.) It over heated and burned out the same day I bought it. I also had the diver's version of the Mity Lite 1900, but it was stolen. Finally; I had a Mity Lite 1960 LED. The pocket clip broke off and the light engine had flickering issues. Frankly; have had by behind full of Pelican and probably never will buy one again.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Mar 10, 2013)

Thanks, ericjohn. With respect to this post here, what do you think?


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## ericjohn (Mar 11, 2013)

LEDAdd1ct said:


> ericjohn, could you please recommend to me _one_ 2D flashlight which meets the following criteria:
> 
> 1) Reasonably sealed against rain and puddles
> 2) Heavy duty, tough, impact resistant plastic
> ...



Even if you could find a KBS 1618, I would ONLY recommend it for collection purposes. Of course you could use it for light duty applications, BUT I seriously doubt it to be waterproof.

I received a 2217 LED from KBS a few weeks back and I must say I am impressed. It is also explosion proof and probably the brightest explosion proof 2 D flashlight.

1.) If it can seal out potentially explosive gasses, so it should keep water out.
2.) High impact Polypropylene 
3.) Read the earlier posts in this thread about the switch (it preforms wonderfully.)
4.) "" ""
5.) Easy to grip, but still very smooth. Also could fit into your back pocket, but won't slide out like the vintage 1618.

I hope I have been helpful.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Mar 11, 2013)

That was helpful, thank you.

I will be using one of the Bright Star lights as a host for an LED mod.

Since the Bright Star 2217 incandescent has the following attributes:

1) Cheap
2) Widely available
3) Waterproof

I think it would make a very good host for an LED mod.

Two more questions:

1) Are the Bright Star flashlights with plastic switches inherently more robust/reliable than the ones with metal switches?

2) Would you choose a 2217 model with metal switch, or, the newer iteration with plastic switch?


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## EscapeVelocity (Mar 12, 2013)

Ive decided to sell the Brightstar 2224 older vintage with the metal switch and ring if anyone is interested. It is the 3D model. Made in USA. Comes with box.

Pretty cool light.


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## Motorhead (Apr 6, 2013)

I have taken 3 Brightstar 2D flashlights and converted them with a 4.5 amp hour Enercys cyclon D tall battery. They are fully rechargable and have a 10 year use life. I have one in my shop.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Apr 6, 2013)

Interesting, cheap mod.

Google "Cyclon DT Cell (0860-0004 Tall D) Sealed Lead Acid Battery, 2V 4.5Ah" to find.

At 2.0v nominal, two in series would be 4.0v, perfect for single cell LiCo applications. 

Two should fit in many 3D hosts with a simple spring mod. 

Thanks for the tip!

NOTE: I prefer LiFePO4 chemistry cells, but these look like a neat, cheap alternative!

* * *

ericjohn, I meant to purchase the 2217 since you like it so much, 
but I wasn't thinking clearly and bought the 2117 instead.

What are the differences?


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## ericjohn (Apr 15, 2013)

LEDAdd1ct said:


> ericjohn, could you please recommend to me _one_ 2D flashlight which meets the following criteria:
> 
> 1) Reasonably sealed against rain and puddles
> 2) Heavy duty, tough, impact resistant plastic
> ...



Sorry, its been so long since I have been able to get on here.

The Bright Star 1618 is no longer made. It has been discontinued since the 1980s (maybe before that.)

The 1618 lights that you saw online are NOT actual 1618s but 2618s. They just used the wrong picture. The CT model would be EXTREMELY difficult to find as it is VERY RARE (even for the 2618.)

IF indeed you come across a 1618; keep it. I wouldn't advise to edc it, because it is really a collector's item now. HOWEVER: I have read many stories about people who used them back in the day and people have dropped them underwater and on metal/concrete. One person found a working one alongside the road while hitchhiking and said it was 35 years between the time he found it and when he was writing the post. According to all of these stories I would recommend it for all of those applications, except for slippery conditions. The 1618 is very smooth as it is and not only will it be hard to push the switch up and down but it could easily slide out of your hands. So: If you are willing to spend the time searching and the big bucks to get it, it will preform wonderfully. Try ebay because they pop up on there from time to time.

A more effective alternative would be the Bright Star 2217 or 2217 LED BUT it would be very hard to find (you could probably find them online only and they would charge you an arm and a leg to ship.) Bright Guy might have some for a reasonable shipping price.

Of course it would be much easier to go to your local hardware or grocery store and get an Eveready IN251 or Energizer 1251 (2D yellow, polypropylene industrial flashlight.) The Eveready would be your best bet, just have extra batteries and bulbs handy. 

Here is the link to the aforementioned Eveready:
http://www.eveready.com/lighting-products/Pages/work-flashlights.aspx

NAPA Auto Parts and Do It Best store chains both carry these Eveready lights. Your local grocer or mom and pop store might have some too. Wal-Mart, Family Dollar and Dollar General do NOT carry these lights.


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## ericjohn (Apr 15, 2013)

LEDAdd1ct said:


> Interesting, cheap mod.
> 
> Google "Cyclon DT Cell (0860-0004 Tall D) Sealed Lead Acid Battery, 2V 4.5Ah" to find.
> 
> ...




The 2217 has a much better switch mechanism. The 2117 has the same crappy switch as the 2618. See if you can get a return.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Apr 16, 2013)

Okay, thank you.

I will inquire about a return/swap. 

EDIT: Thanks again. I am returning the 2117.


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## vicv (Apr 26, 2013)

I have an energizer yellow 2d torch. Run with a 4 cell magstar bulb and 2s2p 14500 makes a nice bright light


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## ericjohn (May 21, 2013)

LEDAdd1ct said:


> That was helpful, thank you.
> 
> I will be using one of the Bright Star lights as a host for an LED mod.
> 
> ...



Sorry I took so long to answer.

1) The 2217 LED already comes with a 40/200 Hour Cree engine
2) Only the vintage Bright Stars come with metal switches and they are getting harder and harder to find. The 2217 (specific model number) only comes with a plastic switch. I think the 2217 incandescent model is being phased out, but they are still widely available online and at some industrial suppliers. The 2217 LED is taking their place. I carries more approvals and is much brighter.


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## ericjohn (Jun 28, 2014)

This is a decent time to revive this thread, because I have some important information to give:

First of all; I take back ALL of the positive statements that I have made about the Bright Star 2217 LED. I thought it was a rugged light, but one fall from ~6' killed it. The body still works, but the LED lamp is dead. I have had incandescent flashlights of the same form factor stand up to the same (and sometimes worse) use and abuse.

On a similar note:
I was able to score a Bright Star 1618 flashlight as new-old-stock off ebay from an electrical equipment dealer. It is the strangest thing because the body of the flashlight is just like the 1960s 1618, but the lens ring is that of the 2618. I am guessing this was made around 1990. This one is built like the 1960s version inasmuch as it is more rugged. The light doesn't flicker and the batteries don't shake like they do in the 2618. The switch also seems much more durable. I was trying it out and accidentally dropped it on concrete. It still worked, but the filament in the bulb was knocked out of place so the beam isn't neat and even anymore. It still gives off useful light, though. Why can't Bright Star use at least this design in their modern models. Methinks their LED lamps should be much more durable as well. I was NOT around in the 1960s and too young in the 1980s and 1990s to have actually used the 1618 when it was on the market, but I am basing my information off of several peoples' stories and experiences.


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