# Want to upgrade my old Executive E1



## 1911pro (Aug 11, 2010)

I have a mint E1-HA from around 2000 that I am wanting to upgrade from the 15 lumen setup to a Lumen Factory HO-E1R or a HO-E1A. Is the extra 10 lumens from the HO-E1R worth having to go with a rechargable battery. I am lazy and do not want to mess with recharging unless it is really a noticable difference. I am trying to do this cheap because I am going to buy a LX1 or a 4sevens tactical later on. Thanks for any help you can give. I am kind of flashlight stupid at this stage in the game.


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## cm_mtb (Aug 12, 2010)

I can't speak from experience with those specific bulbs, but the difference between the HO-E1A and HO-E1R is likely pretty small. 

Also realize that the Lumens Factory ratings are bulb lumens, while the Surefire ratings are out the front lumens, the actual amount of light that comes out of the flashlight after the light reflects through the lens. Multiply bulb lumens by 0.65 to approximate OTF lumens. The difference between the HO-E1A and HO-E1R is less than 7 OTF lumens.

If you want a noticeable difference, look at the EO-E1R.


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## 1911pro (Aug 12, 2010)

Thanks. Great info!


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## Zeruel (Aug 12, 2010)

Check this out. :naughty:


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## 1911pro (Aug 12, 2010)

Zeruel said:


> Check this out. :naughty:



Looks good,but I am confused. Single cell stock E1what do I need? How many lumens is it? What batteries do I need to run? Is it a simple drop in and what is the run time? Thanks


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## Zeruel (Aug 12, 2010)

You may want to enquire from the maker himself, kuku427, for the lumens and runtime. It's a customised tower that's easy to install and you can use either CR123 or rechargeable li-ion. More details can be found at the first post of the MP link.


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## swrdply400mrelay (Aug 12, 2010)

1911pro said:


> Looks good,but I am confused. Single cell stock E1what do I need? How many lumens is it? What batteries do I need to run? Is it a simple drop in and what is the run time? Thanks



You can use either a rechargeable or primary 123. The 500 ma driver should run almost 3 hrs, while the 1 amp will run almost 1.5 hours.

An R5 will get about 139 lumens from 350 ma, while an R4 will get about 130 lumens from 350 ma.


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## 1911pro (Aug 13, 2010)

Thanks guys.


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## Justin Case (Aug 13, 2010)

Better make sure that your E1's head is compatible with that Kuku tower. See the discussion on pp. 2-4 of the original sales thread, starting with post #40.

I have a LF HO-E1A. The output is unimpressive. I realize that you are asking on the incan forum, but I'd probably go with an OpticsHQ/TLS TX2 E2 conversion head and power it with 1xLi-ion.


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## pwatcher (Aug 13, 2010)

I run a LumensFactory EO-E1R in my E13, with a RCR123, and it makes a very noticeable difference over stock!

http://www.lumensfactory.com/product_detail.php?id=23

http://www.lumensfactory.com/e_series_specification.htmhttp://www.lighthound.com/Lumens-Fa...bly-for-SureFire-E1-and-E2-Series_p_1022.html


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## jp2515 (Aug 13, 2010)

Justin Case said:


> *Better make sure that your E1's head is compatible with that Kuku tower.* See the discussion on pp. 2-4 of the original sales thread, starting with post #40.



Very important to take a look at your head before you buy. I have about 5 E series heads and my tower would fit in 3 of them.


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## 1911pro (Aug 13, 2010)

pwatcher said:


> I run a LumensFactory EO-E1R in my E13, with a RCR123, and it makes a very noticeable difference over stock!
> 
> http://www.lumensfactory.com/product_detail.php?id=23
> 
> http://www.lumensfactory.com/e_series_specification.htmhttp://www.lighthound.com/Lumens-Fa...bly-for-SureFire-E1-and-E2-Series_p_1022.html



I have been thinking of going with this setup. How long will it run for?


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## cm_mtb (Aug 13, 2010)

1911pro said:


> I have been thinking of going with this setup. How long will it run for?



The Lumens Factory runtime ratings generally seem to be pretty accurate. The EO-E1R is rated for 30 minutes.

EDIT: from this thread:


> LF EO-E1R -*1.3A* 4.5W (1x17670 69min/1xRCR123 23-30min)


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## 1911pro (Aug 13, 2010)

cm_mtb said:


> The Lumens Factory runtime ratings generally seem to be pretty accurate. The EO-E1R is rated for 30 minutes.
> 
> EDIT: from this thread:


 
Thanks. Thats what I was afraid of.


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## Chrontius (Aug 13, 2010)

1911pro said:


> I have a mint E1-HA from around 2000 that I am wanting to upgrade from the 15 lumen setup to a Lumen Factory HO-E1R or a HO-E1A. Is the extra 10 lumens from the HO-E1R worth having to go with a rechargable battery. I am lazy and do not want to mess with recharging unless it is really a noticable difference. I am trying to do this cheap because I am going to buy a LX1 or a 4sevens tactical later on. Thanks for any help you can give. I am kind of flashlight stupid at this stage in the game.



1911pro, can you post a picture of your light? Inquiring minds want to fact-check the compatibility of your light with the LED module. 

That said, the extreme-output rechargeable modules from Lumens Factory are pretty awesome, if you like incandescent lights.


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## 1911pro (Aug 13, 2010)

Chrontius said:


> 1911pro, can you post a picture of your light? Inquiring minds want to fact-check the compatibility of your light with the LED module.
> 
> That said, the extreme-output rechargeable modules from Lumens Factory are pretty awesome, if you like incandescent lights.


 
Sorry about the Iphone picture. Hope this helps. It has A56309 on the bezel.


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## Chrontius (Aug 14, 2010)

Exactly what I needed to see, 1911pro, serial number not required. You will either need a new bezel, making your light both sterile and clipless (did they print anything on the tailcap? Not entirely sterile, then) to mount that LED we were talking about earlier.

On the other hand, the extra heat-sink mass pairs well with a Lumens Factory incandescent lamp in short burns (long runs will warp the lexan window up front, but that really doesn't slow you down much, and once you do melt it, Surefire will send you a new, sterile E1 head with heat warnings on it -- so write down your serial number and email it to yourself or something. All my Surefire serials go in GoogleDocs in case I misplace a serialized head or the house burns down or something stupid.)

Also, nice classic E1. Wish I could still track one like that down, they're classy.


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## 1911pro (Aug 14, 2010)

Thanks. Lumens Factory it is. Do you know if the 50 lumens lamp will melt the lense? Also when did they quit putting seriel #s on the light? honestly I thought it was a model #. Tailcap is marked. Thanks for all the help.


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## Chrontius (Aug 14, 2010)

It's an E1 Executive, and they've moved on to the E1e Executive Elite. The E1 had a serial on the head, the E1e has the serial on the body tube.

Also, the Elite versions moved the clip from the head to the body tube, and made it user-replaceable instead of riveted.

Oh, 50 lumens should be fine - most people who have trouble are running P61 and especially P91 lamps with lexan windows. (On the other hand, the window is closer to the bulb... letting the whole battery go in one big long glorious burn is probably a bad idea, but replacement kits go on eBay fairly frequently.)


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## 1911pro (Aug 14, 2010)

Chrontius said:


> It's an E1 Executive, and they've moved on to the E1e Executive Elite. The E1 had a serial on the head, the E1e has the serial on the body tube.
> 
> Also, the Elite versions moved the clip from the head to the body tube, and made it user-replaceable instead of riveted.


 
Thanks. Great info.


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## Justin Case (Aug 14, 2010)

Chrontius said:


> Also, the Elite versions moved the clip from the head to the body tube, and made it user-replaceable instead of riveted.



Is the E1e head different from an E2e head? All of my tear-dropped, Lexan-windowed E2e heads use a clip that is attached via a hex head screw, not riveted.


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## ampdude (Aug 14, 2010)

At different times they had made them with either rivets or hex screws. Doesn't have anything to do with it being an E1 or E2 though, I've seen plenty of both.


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## Chrontius (Aug 15, 2010)

Good to know, guys - my E2 is riveted, and has error engraving that goes over one of the rivets. (Aftermarket engraving, it doesn't look like typical Surefire etching)

There was also a transition model, which was technically an E2e with a round teardrop head with no clip, and a body-mounted E2e clip. These are somewhat rare and desirable, and a few here love using these clipless teardrop heads on the old-pattern clipless bodies to make "smoothie" E2s. 

Lessee... I can also tell you that's the Z52 lock-out tailcap; later models switched over to the Z57 clicky which was less reliable (we're on revision four now) capable of less current, and they were made available as an option for Z52 owners. The older tailcaps were shorter, and did not lock out; no matter how loose the tailcap, enough pressure would turn it on. Your Z52 is taller, the easiest indication of lockout versus not, and the Z57 is taller still and also locks out.

The Z52 is considered by snobs, connoisseurs, the merely opinionated, and those who build high-powered hotwires (350-900 lumen incandescent powerhouses that run rather hot) out of lights like yours to be better, but it's a personal preference thing IMHO; I've tried both and I can go either way depending on my mood and attitude. Z52s in good condition tend to fetch a higher price than Z57s since they're discontinued and availability sucks - nearly or exceeding original retail, in fact.

That's everything I can tell you about your light, I think. By the way, nice Kahr in the background.


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## Gravitron (Aug 15, 2010)

I have found a website that boasts 250 OTF lumens for around $60 dollars. I emailed the website to ask if they are available for sale and they replied very soon. Below are the specs and info for their drop in. If it is true this should be a great upgrade for an E1E.

Convert your SureFire E Series incandescent flashlight to brighter and longer running LED models with a simple drop-in.
* No soldering, no modification needed.
* Constructed from solid brass for superior heat sinking of LED heat. 
* Premium tint and output bin Cree XP-G LED
* Independently tested to provide 250 lumens of actual output.
* Input voltage range 2.8V to 6V (2 x CR123 or 1 Li-Ion)
* Two and three mode electronic driver with memory function. 
** Single CR123 / RCR one mode version also available.


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## Gravitron (Aug 15, 2010)

Found a review for this new E series drop in on CPF with the title:*Veleno Designs E-Series Tower Dropin Review*. So, it looks like it is the real deal.


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## Zeruel (Aug 15, 2010)

Gravitron said:


> I have found a website that boasts 250 OTF lumens for around $60 dollars. I emailed the website to ask if they are available for sale and they replied very soon. Below are the specs and info for their drop in. If it is true this should be a great upgrade for an E1E.
> 
> Convert your SureFire E Series incandescent flashlight to brighter and longer running LED models with a simple drop-in.
> * No soldering, no modification needed.
> ...





Gravitron said:


> Found a review for this new E series drop in on CPF with the title:*Veleno Designs E-Series Tower Dropin Review*. So, it looks like it is the real deal.




Which brings us back to post #4.


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## 1911pro (Aug 15, 2010)

Chrontius said:


> Good to know, guys - my E2 is riveted, and has error engraving that goes over one of the rivets. (Aftermarket engraving, it doesn't look like typical Surefire etching)
> 
> There was also a transition model, which was technically an E2e with a round teardrop head with no clip, and a body-mounted E2e clip. These are somewhat rare and desirable, and a few here love using these clipless teardrop heads on the old-pattern clipless bodies to make "smoothie" E2s.
> 
> ...


 
Thanks. I had no idea they changed the tailcap. The Kahr is my summer carry. Hope to go back to my 1911 once it cools down in a few months.


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## Chrontius (Aug 15, 2010)

Gravitron said:


> I have found a website that boasts 250 OTF lumens for around $60 dollars. I emailed the website to ask if they are available for sale and they replied very soon. Below are the specs and info for their drop in. If it is true this should be a great upgrade for an E1E.



Sadly, this won't fit older E1 heads - or E2 heads, or I'd have thrown one in mine. :shrug:

The new ones removed some material behind the reflector to save mass, and the Veleno heat sink extends into this cavity. If you're pretty incredibly good with a dremel, you could mod the heat sink, buuuuut... if I wanted to be sure that the job got done right, I'd be inclined to have Milkyspit (arguably CPF's best one-off modder for hire) chop the heat sink and nobody else.


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## 1911pro (Aug 17, 2010)

Chrontius said:


> Sadly, this won't fit older E1 heads - or E2 heads, or I'd have thrown one in mine. :shrug:
> 
> The new ones removed some material behind the reflector to save mass, and the Veleno heat sink extends into this cavity. If you're pretty incredibly good with a dremel, you could mod the heat sink, buuuuut... if I wanted to be sure that the job got done right, I'd be inclined to have Milkyspit (arguably CPF's best one-off modder for hire) chop the heat sink and nobody else.


 
Do you know if it will work with the Surefire warranty replacement Bezel? They are sending me one. Thanks for the info on that. I would have never known about it.


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## Chrontius (Aug 18, 2010)

It will work without any trouble.

That said, there's a little slop in the spacing on the modern E-heads. The heat sinks on the Veleno dropins are made a liiiitle oversized; you may end up having to take a little metal off the surface with sandpaper. Once you get it right, you could put in a dab of heat-sink paste (Arctic Silver is one of the best, but certainly not cheap) to transfer heat to the light's head even better. Don't put it between the dropin and the body, though - but some silicone grease on the threads is always a good idea. (I use Magic Lube, teflon-bearing silicone bought at the local pool store)


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## 1911pro (Aug 19, 2010)

Chrontius said:


> It will work without any trouble.
> 
> That said, there's a little slop in the spacing on the modern E-heads. The heat sinks on the Veleno dropins are made a liiiitle oversized; you may end up having to take a little metal off the surface with sandpaper. Once you get it right, you could put in a dab of heat-sink paste (Arctic Silver is one of the best, but certainly not cheap) to transfer heat to the light's head even better. Don't put it between the dropin and the body, though - but some silicone grease on the threads is always a good idea. (I use Magic Lube, teflon-bearing silicone bought at the local pool store)


 
Thanks. Got the bezel today. Going to order the Veleno dropin tonight.


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