# Any word on the Eagletac D25 series clickys?



## belomeclone (Apr 6, 2012)

I was told they would be released yesterday, but I cannot find them anywhere. I have buying plans for these and this lack of information is only helping my wallet.


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## sadboy (Apr 7, 2012)

Wow. You just helped my wallet. I was literally just about to purchase a D25C. 

I really can't decide what I want right now, except I want something to replace my currently MIA Neutral-white Quark MiNi AA.


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## SLOCIVIC (Apr 7, 2012)

The official release from EagleTac was yesterday... They are going to be shipping by the end of the month! Make sure you hit up [email protected]


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## Danielight (Apr 7, 2012)

I've been waiting for EagleTac to come out with the clicky model so that I can swap the head from my D25LC2 twisty to a clicky body tube. I hope they are planning to make just the clicky body available.


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## SLOCIVIC (Apr 7, 2012)

Danielight said:


> I've been waiting for EagleTac to come out with the clicky model so that I can swap the head from my D25LC2 twisty to a clicky body tube. I hope they are planning to make just the clicky body available.



Nope.... Just buy a new clicky's model the pricing is still going to be really good!


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## Danielight (Apr 8, 2012)

SLOCIVIC said:


> Nope.... Just buy a new clicky's model the pricing is still going to be really good!


If the pricing is really good, then I'll consider getting the whole light. When I first began to inquire about the availablility of just the clicky body itself, I was told it might only be about $10. Since I have bought two other flashlights since then, I'm thinking I might do well to keep my next purchase price on the low side.


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## somnambulated (Apr 8, 2012)

sadboy said:


> Wow. You just helped my wallet. I was literally just about to purchase a D25C.
> 
> I really can't decide what I want right now, except I want something to replace my currently MIA Neutral-white Quark MiNi AA.



I hear ya. Seems like there's a distinct lack of availability of anything other than twisties in a small, single cell format, that aren't all (boring) anodized black.

Too bad these aren't coming out till the end of the month! I was told early this month when I emailed them, but if they're getting the kinks out of the switch I'm happy to wait.

Do we know for sure the clicky switch will be a direct fit to the single-cell bodies? The catalog only shows the 2-cell D25's with switches.


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## SLOCIVIC (Apr 9, 2012)

[email protected] is going to start a pre-order thread in the CPF Marketplace soon.. there is already a pre-order thread in the "cove" on USN...

as far as the switches go.. the proto-type that we had at Shot Show did not look to be interchangeable with the twisty... so we will just have to wait and see...


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## somnambulated (Apr 10, 2012)

Not happy to hear that. Did they change the threads on the rear tailcap, or what was the fitment issue?


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## MichaelW (Apr 10, 2012)

Have been eagerly awaiting this release.
From reading Italian/German, you do have 5 steady state output modes, but you only get 4 at a time, and only 3 when you are not in the turbo mode [speaking of which, why is the turbo mode with the head loosened? Ideally you'd have better head conduction with the head tightened. Your going to need it for the big time turbo lumen numbers]
Neutral-white fans will only have an xp-g R4 or xm-l T6, no xt-e R4-yet?
The bright stainless steel bezel is no longer bright, I think it looks more subdued, less conspicuous. 
Not positive, but the clicky switch might be a forward activated? [it is recessed] That just doesn't make any sense when you have to cycle through 13 modes to complete a loop (okay it repeats L-M-H before strobe, strobe2, flash, SOS, SOS2, beacon, flash2) A forward click is a deal breaker for me.
'mode memory' works between switching of head-tight/loose. That is supposedly on the "D25A2/C" (does that mean the single C model, or C2 & LC2?)
The moon mode needs clarification. Are you locked out of the high mode when you elect to use the moon mode function? or does Eagletac just rename high mode as 'medium'? Also the explanation of outputs of the 1st & 2nd cycling modes change dependent if you are not in moon. One says the lowest output increases 6x, and the 2nd lowest output increases by 2.5x.
and the prices look about 50% greater than the twisties.


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## lebox97 (Apr 10, 2012)

the D25 clicky specs were just sent out to the dealers late last week... 
so it will be a few more days I think before you see the detailed info posted online.
product won't be shipping from factory to dealers for a little while yet - probably end of month.

there will be 5 clicky models (*D25A, D25C, D25A2, D25C2, D25LC2*), 
with 5 LED choices *XM-L T6 CW, XM-L T6 NW, XT-E R5 CW, XP-G S2 CW, XP-G R4 NW* 
= *25 *total new D25 clicky models! :huh:

basically the clicky versions will be cost approx $7-11 or so (not 50%) more than than twisties depending on model, LED choice, and specific dealer pricing.

optional upgrade clicky tubes are also supposed to be available for upgrading the twisty models - but info has not been released yet - 

Dan (EagleTac owner) and I PERSONALLY took the clicky tubes and switched them out with the twisties at ShotShow and had no problems at all - 
which is why I suggested and Dan agreed to offer clicky tube upgrade options for twisty owners...

*Patience my friends!*
Cheers
Tod


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## BLUE LED (Apr 10, 2012)

Thank you for the good news. I am looking forward to the XP-G S2 and XT-E R5 versions of the D25 and D25LC2


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## Fitz (Apr 10, 2012)

I was really looking forward to the D25LC2 (18650) Clicky in neutral, now I see they changed the pocket clip so it's no longer screwed on like the non-clicky version and is lower on the body. What a bummer.


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## phantom23 (Apr 10, 2012)

@lebox97, do they plan to use XT-E emitter in D25 twisties?


MichaelW said:


> [speaking of which, why is the turbo mode with the head loosened? Ideally you'd have better head conduction with the head tightened. Your going to need it for the big time turbo lumen numbers]


It's not, you have Turbo with head tightened. Heat isn't an issue because it has stepdown after 3 minutes.


MichaelW said:


> The moon mode needs clarification. Are you locked out of the high mode when you elect to use the moon mode function? or does Eagletac just rename high mode as 'medium'? Also the explanation of outputs of the 1st & 2nd cycling modes change dependent if you are not in moon. One says the lowest output increases 6x, and the 2nd lowest output increases by 2.5x.
> and the prices look about 50% greater than the twisties.


Simplier explanation - you can choose how bright last two (the dimmest) modes can be. For example in D25A with XM-L you can choode between 176/107/10/1 and 176/107/20/4lm modes.


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## belomeclone (Apr 11, 2012)

Do we have any information on the UI for this?


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## orbital (Apr 11, 2012)

+

*Actual units now shown, *

available with XT-E R5 (industry first?)
Programmable settings & moon mode....:thumbsup:


http://www.eagletac.com/html/d_series/index.html


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## reppans (Apr 11, 2012)

Looks like running XML D25A & D25C on Li-ions is direct drive only... you'll lose the other lower lumen modes.


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## Danielight (Apr 11, 2012)

Fitz said:


> I was really looking forward to the D25LC2 (18650) Clicky in neutral, now I see they changed the pocket clip so it's no longer screwed on like the non-clicky version and is lower on the body. What a bummer.


Looks like that's true on the two-cell models. The single-cell models still have the nicer pocket clips screwed to the top of the tail. My guess regarding the pocket clip placement on the two-cell models is that the clicky switch may add enough length to the light to make it a little too long for deep-pocket carry if the clip is way at the top. (BTW, the clip on the two-cell models looks a lot like the clip in my Quark AA2, which is good & solid because it is held in place in the joint between the center and tail pieces.)


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## somnambulated (Apr 11, 2012)

reppans said:


> Looks like running XML D25A & D25C on Li-ions is direct drive only... you'll lose the other lower lumen modes.



This is true, it's straight direct drive. Been playing around with a rechargeable 14500, and it turns the D25AM into a single (very bright) mode light.


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## recDNA (Apr 11, 2012)

reppans said:


> Looks like running XML D25A & D25C on Li-ions is direct drive only... you'll lose the other lower lumen modes.



I'm very surprised and disappointed. You usually see that in cheap lights. I have always considered ET to be a quality manufacturer.


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## cave dave (Apr 11, 2012)

recDNA said:


> I'm very surprised and disappointed. You usually see that in cheap lights. I have always considered ET to be a quality manufacturer.



Its usually a lot more efficient to use current regulation designed for only one battery type. Your choices for broad voltage support are a Boost-Buck circuit that can do both which is more expensive and less efficient or a PWM circuit that is even cheaper but not efficient.


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## jonnyfgroove (Apr 11, 2012)

orbital said:


> available with XT-E R5 (industry first?)



Can't wait to see the lux readings for the LC2 with this new emitter...


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## orbital (Apr 11, 2012)

jonnyfgroove said:


> Can't wait to see the lux readings for the LC2 with this new emitter...



gotta say, new emitters spark a bit of excitement >>>>>>>>>>


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## belomeclone (Apr 11, 2012)

Now to find someone who has it for sale!


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## HIDblue (Apr 11, 2012)

A sales thread for the D25 series clickies was started in the CPF marketplace by one of the CPF dealers. 

Now I just need ET to introduce the clicky series in Titanium...


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## Glock 22 (Apr 12, 2012)

There up for pre-order available the end of april but all pre-orders are sold out. (Link remove I got a :whoopin: .)​


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## MichaelW (Apr 12, 2012)

Reading the US release info:
No moon mode [sub lumen] for the 'big boys' D25C2 & D25LC2. Don't know if the xm-l circuit has the 'lower-low' stuff?
Pricing is great, but not outstanding, but the feature set is outstanding

The Fenix P3D rb100 may have just earned its retirement.


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## zenbeam (Apr 12, 2012)

This is the first I've seen any images of these! Wow! My D25C soon to have a companion! I am so glad there is a rush on the preorders. I need some time to recover form my recent splurging on starting a flashlight collection in the first place! I will be ready by the time these new "Clicky-D's" are commonly available. And that will also give me time to really think about just which model/emitter setup I want.


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## SLOCIVIC (Apr 12, 2012)

maybe your not looking in the right place.... lots of pre-orders still available....



GLOCK 22 said:


> There up for pre-order available the end of april but all pre-orders are sold out.​


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## victorkonners (Apr 13, 2012)

Also waiting for latest news regarding that. I wish there is an update.


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## Glock 22 (Apr 13, 2012)

Had to remove my link I posted I got a :whoopin:. 



SLOCIVIC said:


> maybe your not looking in the right place.... lots of pre-orders still available....


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## zenbeam (Apr 18, 2012)

After careful consideration - I just pre-ordered my D25LC2rc! Earned a little unexpected OT this week - and voila!

Not sure if pre-orders are sold out or not? I pre-ordered from EagleTac USA and all the models have banners saying limited supplies, pre-order now for end of April, etc., etc. When I went through with the pre-order, the charge showed up on my payment method account and I received email confirmation and receipt right away - no notices about being sold out or delayed - so far! 

Man, after picking up a D25C twisty, I really, really wanted a D25LC2 twisty. I wound up holding off to explore other types of flashlights and makers - having no idea that just around the corner, these clicky beauties with updated LEDs and other kewl new features were about to make themselves available to us! I totally would have been bummed if had already bought the twisty version before knowing about the clickies!

I wound up deciding upon the XT-E R5 version for the throw and improved efficiency over the XP-G S2. Yeah, the XM-L U2 puts out lots-o more lumens and is floodier, but I feel that the lower settings on even a tighter, thrower-style beam will be fine for working with in close surroundings, etc. And while 344 lumens (OTF) isn't quite 548 lumens (OTF), the XT-E R5 is supposedly a much better thrower - and I can't help in this case but to want to have a small form factor light like this that will impressively "reach out and touch"!

Here are some specs on the LED choices for the D25LC2rc
(this info can be found at the EagleTac.com site / product page)

*CREE XP-G S2 LED*

344 O.T.F. lumen, Good far projecting performance, excellent beam profile
XP-G is the best well-balance LED for this flashlight in terms of beam profile, output, far projecting and up close beam performance.
*CREE XT-E R5 LED*

344 O.T.F. lumen, Excellent far projecting performance, good beam profile
New generation silicon carbidge-based XT-E LED offers approximately 10% higher efficiency than the XP-G LED at the same bin at 350mA LED current.
*CREE XM-L U2 LED*

548 O.T.F. lumen, Fair far projecting performance, excellent (relatively floody) beam profile
(Cool white LED beam profile shown above) Neutral white LED shares the same beam profile as its cool white version.

Now all I can do is periodically look at pictures (somehow that just doesn't quite sound right) -






Reversible clip -





The perfect size for EDC! Pocket, holster (the ever awesome rigid EagleTac nylon holster at that!) or lanyard - or all!






I become just like a kid with anxiety over these kinds of matters! I can't wait for this to ship out! But, the 50 year old in me tells me to be prepared in the event they send me notice of delay due to popular demand, etc. But if I do get this sucker in the first batch release... you know I'll be yelling "woot" around here! :thumbsup: And while still high on my new baby, I'll post up a :nana: to those who don't have theirs yet. :wave:


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## sspc (Apr 18, 2012)

The D25LC2 twisty is my favorite light for many reasons (smallish size, output, UI, pocket clip...). On the clicky version, I don't like the way the pocket clip is positioned as it would leave too much of light sitting outside of the pocket. So I'm leaning towards the D25A or C clicky because they use the pocket clip I prefer, but I would carry the D25LC2 clicky clipless if I went that route.


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## tjswarbrick (Apr 18, 2012)

HIDblue said:


> Now I just need ET to introduce the clicky series in Titanium...



+1 to that! As long as they keep the neutral emitter options.


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## tjswarbrick (Apr 20, 2012)

I just saw a "Coming Soon" at one of the popular dealers on

*EagleTac D25A CLICKY Ti Mini* TITANIUM 
(Select COOL or NEUTRAL in Cart)
*XM-L U2/T5* Limited Edition*

and

**EagleTac D25C CLICKY Ti Mini* TITANIUM 
(Select COOL or NEUTRAL in Cart)
*XM-L U2/T5* Limited Edition
I don't have any more info, but I'm waiting with baited breath.


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## Danielight (Apr 20, 2012)

tjswarbrick said:


> I just saw a "Coming Soon" at one of the popular dealers on
> 
> *EagleTac D25A CLICKY Ti Mini* TITANIUM
> (Select COOL or NEUTRAL in Cart)
> ...


This looks like our friends at illuminationGear. I started to e-mail them a while back when I learned that EagleTac was going to release just the battery tube portion with the clicky switch for those who might want to convert a twisty to clicky. CSS at illuminationGear was always good at sending e-mail updates, but made it clear that they, too, were waiting on updated info from the mfg. I'd just keep watching the illuminationGear website.


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## HIDblue (Apr 20, 2012)

tjswarbrick said:


> I just saw a "Coming Soon" at one of the popular dealers on
> 
> *EagleTac D25A CLICKY Ti Mini* TITANIUM
> (Select COOL or NEUTRAL in Cart)
> ...



Great find...I'm starting to love Ti lights to the detriment of my wallet.


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## CPFBiology (Apr 21, 2012)

I, too, am waiting for the next round of Eagletacs. I didn't like the bad news about the Nitecore multi- 18650's and was hoping for a more reliable offering from Eagletac.

Btw, danielight, nice pug!


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## somnambulated (Apr 23, 2012)

No way! So they are releasing a Ti clicky!


Via iPhone & Tapatalk


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## HIDblue (Apr 23, 2012)

Looks like lightjunction has the new Eagletac D25 clickies in stock! 

I'm going to try and show some restraint and wait for the D25 Titanium clickies to come out...


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## somnambulated (Apr 23, 2012)

I planned on grabbing an aluminum one and Legoing a Tuxedo light, but now... Hmm.


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## zenbeam (Apr 24, 2012)

HIDblue said:


> Looks like lightjunction has the new Eagletac D25 clickies in stock!
> 
> I'm going to try and show some restraint and wait for the D25 Titanium clickies to come out...



Woah! They do have a limited offering in stock! EagleTac-USA.com has already charged my credit card for my pre-order, but lightjunction doesn't have the D25LC2 with the XT-E R5 (which I want) only the XM-L T6 version... so I feel better..... sort of.... lol. 

If you go to each light's individual product page, they have the number of units in stock listed near the bottom. 

One can only hope that this is an indicator that the pre-orders are soon to be filled? :wave:


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## HIDblue (Apr 24, 2012)

Yeah, it's getting harder to resist. The D25LC2 looks to be about the same size as my 4Sevens Quark X 123^2 judging by the listed dimensions, but the D25LC2 not only has higher output, but is also compatible with 18650, RCR123 and CR123 battery configs. Very small form factor for a 1x18650 light. 

Must resist...


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## cyclesport (Apr 24, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> Woah! They do have a limited offering in stock! EagleTac-USA.com has already charged my credit card for my pre-order, but lightjunction doesn't have the D25LC2 with the XT-E R5 (which I want) only the XM-L T6 version... so I feel better..... sort of.... lol.
> 
> If you go to each light's individual product page, they have the number of units in stock listed near the bottom.
> 
> One can only hope that this is an indicator that the pre-orders are soon to be filled? :wave:



Zenbeam: FWIW I had the D25LC2 XT-E on order with another distributor when I noticed Illumination Gear had it in stock. I cancelled my existing order to place it with Illumination Gear when Todd told me that every single one of his D25 clickies with the XT-E emitter was full of undesirable tints of yellow and blue with a very splotchy overall beam. It was so bad he, being an honest merchant, sent them all back as defective and will show his website as being "out of stock" with any EagleTac D25 XT-E series clicky for the time being! Bummer, I wanted this light with this emitter too...now pondering the same light with XM-L?


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## Kevinkw1 (Apr 24, 2012)

HIDblue said:


> Looks like lightjunction has the new Eagletac D25 clickies in stock!
> 
> I'm going to try and show some restraint and wait for the D25 Titanium clickies to come out...



I wonder how long it will be till the titanium ones come out. Don't the manufacturers usually release the ti versions about one month later?


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## zenbeam (Apr 24, 2012)

cyclesport said:


> Zenbeam: FWIW I had the D25LC2 XT-E on order with another distributor when I noticed Illumination Gear had it in stock. I cancelled my existing order to place it with Illumination Gear when Todd told me that every single one of his D25 clickies with the XT-E emitter was full of undesirable tints of yellow and blue with a very splotchy overall beam. It was so bad he, being an honest merchant, sent them all back as defective and will show his website as being "out of stock" with any EagleTac D25 XT-E series clicky for the time being! Bummer, I wanted this light with this emitter too...now pondering the same light with XM-L?



Cyclesport:
Thanks for this heads up! I am going to have to write EagleTac-USA about this. I am going to directly ask them if they are in fact having such an issue. They should be honest and say so either allowing me to change my order or... assure me that they will ship a "fixed" unit with the XT-E. Hmmm... I'll post back with any results on this. I will be ticked if I get a splotchy flashlight shipped to me from a company I consider very high quality.

EDIT: That might very well explain why lightjunction had no XT-E versions for sale. I just wrote EagleTac to see about what to do with my pre-order. Will update. 

I would wind up going with the XM-L U2 if they don't say they will fix the XT-E issue quick enough. Man I hope it was just a bad batch?


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## cyclesport (Apr 24, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> Cyclesport:
> Thanks for this heads up! I am going to have to write EagleTac-USA about this. I am going to directly ask them if they are in fact having such an issue. They should be honest and say so either allowing me to change my order or... assure me that they will ship a "fixed" unit with the XT-E. Hmmm... I'll post back with any results on this. I will be ticked if I get a splotchy flashlight shipped to me from a company I consider very high quality.
> 
> EDIT: That might very well explain why lightjunction had no XT-E versions for sale. I just wrote EagleTac to see about what to do with my pre-order. Will update.
> ...



No problem zenbeam. I also email request/cancelled my order with EagleTac.usa and it was promptly credited. I'm sure you'll have no issues. Keep us posted as to EagleTac's response re: known problems with the XT-E emitter...be curious to hear their response?

I did order the D25C and D25LC2 both with the XM-L U2 from Light Junction (because I needed some other items that only they had in stock + a CPF discount) and all items shipped today! I have other lights with this emitter, and although the XT-E sounded like something I would have liked if it functioned properly, I do like the massive amount of seemingly consistant clean white floody light the XM-L U2 puts out when utilized in such a broad sampling of manfacturer's products. 

Seems I've been getting burned recently on new product releases eg: Sunwayman V10R Ti+...Sheesh! You'd think I'd wise up!? I just hope the crappy XT-E versions of these first gen EagleTac clickys don't turn out to be _just one_ out of a bunch of other problems with these lights...or these will be going back for a refund!


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## zenbeam (Apr 25, 2012)

I wrote illuminationgear as well. Want to see if I qualify for CPF discount and if so, heck I would cancel my D25LC2rc order with EagleTac-USA and order one from illuminationgear probably with the Neutral XM-L T6. 

Depends on the replies I get. 

But what I thought was cool at the illuminationgear site is that they have body tubes to convert existing twisty D's to clicky D's! Some models are not available yet, but they do have them in stock for the D25C - which I happen to own - $20 upgrade to clicky..... hmmmmmmm..... Man these guys know how to reach into your wallet. I will have to think about it though! lol


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## zenbeam (Apr 25, 2012)

Woot! Just cancelled my D25LC2 clicky XT-E R5 order with EagleTac-USA then turned around and ordered same from IlluminationGear with a Neutral XM-L T6. The CPF discount was enough to basically eliminate the added cost of going to XM-L - cool! (or should I say neutral? - yes, that was corny). 

And yes, I DID order the converter tube to convert my D25C twisty to a clicky! I already love the emitter on this light, so I don't mind not fully upgrading it, but making it a clicky in terms of operation is very cool. Plus, the holster with the exposed metal inside, underneath the button snap has worn a small place already on the knurling of month old D25C. This new clicky tube will be all new knurling - allowing me an opportunity to find a way to cover that metal in the holster to prevent the new tube from having a mark as well. 

BTW -
Since I cancelled the order with EagleTac-USA, they may or may not respond to my query about the funky beams with the XT-E R5 emitters. If they do, I will certainly post up their response here.

Can't wait to get this new light & tube too! This will have to be my last light for a little while - lol (ever said that to yourself?)

OK - enough rambling for now.


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## zenbeam (Apr 25, 2012)

IlluminationGear order shipped earlier today (everything that I've read about Tod and this site is true). I finally got a reply back from EagleTacUSA in an email response agreeing to cancel my order and credit my PayPal. The credit hasn't shown up yet. Tod's credit for the CPF discount showed up within moments of the order being placed. I think going straight to EagleTacUSA or PTS for that matter is like going to a busy factory for a single item. Probably not the best of ideas. Live and learn eh? 

When EagleTac replied btw, they only responded to my cancellation request and made zero mention to my query about the XT-E R5 emitter beam issues. Oh well.


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## salimoneus (Apr 26, 2012)

I sure hope it's true about the Ti versions of the clicky being available soon. I contacted EagleTac directly only a month ago and was told they were not doing one in Ti.


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## Danielight (Apr 26, 2012)

CPFBiology said:


> I, too, am waiting for the next round of Eagletacs. I didn't like the bad news about the Nitecore multi- 18650's and was hoping for a more reliable offering from Eagletac.
> 
> Btw, danielight, nice pug!


Thanks, CPFBiology. The pug's name is Duke ... he's 5 years old, and is a real mama's boy (really attached to my wife). He appreciates my flashlights more than my wife does, because I use one every morning & evening when I walk him. (We also have a 1-yr old black female pug, who appreciates the flashlights for the same reason.)


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## af112566 (Apr 26, 2012)

does anyone have one of these yet?? im interested in how they are...


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## zenbeam (Apr 26, 2012)

If all goes well with shipping, I should have my D25LC2 this Saturday. 

Cyclesport said he ordered one already through lightjunction so that should be arriving anytime now?


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## cyclesport (Apr 26, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> If all goes well with shipping, I should have my D25LC2 this Saturday.
> 
> Cyclesport said he ordered one already through lightjunction so that should be arriving anytime now?



USPS says I should have the D25C and D25LC2 both w/the XM-LU2 emitter tomorrow 4/27. I'll be kinda busy the next couple of days but if no others post any data, I'll try and post my observations of the lights, beam pattern & tint. I'm mostly concerned (1) about conflicting info I've seen re: direct drive with Li-ion's and if I'll have access to all functions _and_ realize full turbo output (700+lumens) with 16430's and 18650's respectively, and (2) if there are no quality issues with the XM-L emitters in view of Tod @ IlluminationGear’s refusing his entire shipment of XT-E lights due to poor beam quality. 

I admit I'm more tolerant of cool vs. warm tints than others on this board. As long as the beam isn't very ringy and relatively artifact free I'm happy. I just don't like extremely cool _or_ warm lights.


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## jhc37013 (Apr 27, 2012)

So from reading Eagletac D25 manual online here is a couple things that I think will put the reverse clicky back in favor and satisfy those of us who like quick access to multiple modes but have always been put off by a couple drawbacks of a reverse clicky.

First is mode memory or no mode memory - In the past in a new light sales thread or product announcement of a reverse clicky light one of the first questions you can count on a member asking is is there mode memory or not? There was and always will be two camps here those who don't like mode memory and those who will not by a light without it having mode memory.

With the ET Clicky you have the option to program the light to either enable or disable mode memory and if you change your mind or would like to experiment you have that option and are not held back by one or the other, big problem solved I think.

Next there has always been a discussion about moonlight mode on reverse clicky light's and many feel moonlight mode gets in the way and you have to click through to many modes to get to the higher outputs, but like mode memory there is another camp of members who will not purchase a light unless it has a true moonlight mode, and also like memory mode you can program the ET Clicky to either have a moonlight mode or not have a moonlight mode. 

So on paper it seems these models solves a couple large problems that would keep members away from a reverse clicky including me, in the past I really disliked mode memory but recently I've grown to like it somewhat. It comes down to this if I take the light outside at night I prefer to have mode memory because I'm probably going to only use one of the higher outputs.

On the other hand when I come inside at night I prefer quick access to moonlight mode for task around the house when most of my light's are off or when I wake at night, 2 lumens can seem like 2000 when you wake and take a trip to the fridge or restroom so having easy assess to a moonlight mode without a quick accidental splash of 300 lumens is always great to have. 

I should have a D25LC2 Monday and look forward to putting these issues to test and I wonder how many of you are buying the D25 Clicky because it has the ability to do the things mentioned above?


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## sspc (Apr 27, 2012)

Looking at the UI details, it looks like strobe in group 2 may not be hidden. What do you guys think? The UI seems interesting but too easily accessible strobe would not be a plus (IMO).


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## jhc37013 (Apr 27, 2012)

sspc said:


> Looking at the UI details, it looks like strobe in group 2 may not be hidden. What do you guys think? The UI seems interesting but to easily accessible strobe would not be a plus (IMO).



Well strobe is in the group with Turbo so with the head tight turning the light on will come on in turbo and you would need to tap the switch for strobe similar to many reverse switch light's of the past and present. So strobe shouldn't get in the way at all when the head is tight, you wouldn't need to cycle if the only other mode on that group is turbo.

However it seems the head loose is also same as past light's where the blinky modes get in the way of cycling the modes, that is where I wish this light has one more program option where I could program the blinky modes.


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## ViciousV (Apr 27, 2012)

sspc said:


> Looking at the UI details, it looks like strobe in group 2 may not be hidden. What do you guys think? The UI seems interesting but to easily accessible strobe would not be a plus (IMO).



Seems like strobe is another "camp" like JHC was talking about. Those who prefer a more tactical light want it easily accessible. Those who don't use it as part of a self defence option want it hidden. 

I have a few ET lights, 2 are D25's, I haven't decided if I'll get a clicky yet, tho the more I read the more I'm convincing myself.


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## jhc37013 (Apr 27, 2012)

jhc37013 said:


> However it seems the head loose is also same as past light's where the blinky modes get in the way of cycling the modes, that is where I wish this light has one more program option where I could program the blinky modes.



Never mind that part I almost forgot the blinky modes are hidden, it seems you have to cycle through all the outputs twice when the head is loose although I can still see myself accidentally activating them when I'm just toying around.

I have to admit though cheers to Eagletac for hiding the strobe modes, I've never found them useful what so ever.


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## sspc (Apr 27, 2012)

jhc37013 said:


> Well strobe is in the group with Turbo so with the head tight turning the light on will come on in turbo and you would need to tap the switch for strobe similar to many reverse switch light's of the past and present. So strobe shouldn't get in the way at all when the head is tight, you wouldn't need to cycle if the only other mode on that group is turbo.



Good point. The fact that only Turbo is on group 2 with the strobe kind of relieves my fears as I would only be twisting the head to enter group 2 to access turbo (90 times out of 100) so I would have no need to cycle in group 2 anyway...meaning I wouldn't be accidentally going into strobe.



jhc37013 said:


> I have to admit though cheers to Eagletac for hiding the strobe modes, I've never found them useful what so ever.


I also love how Eagletac tucks the blinky modes away. I like having them available on my lights, but always prefer they not be "out front" when cycling through the UI.


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## zenbeam (Apr 27, 2012)

My primary reason for wanting this model in clicky is because, while I have no real qualms with twisty lights (as I have several anyway) - in the case of my D25C twisty, there are times when initially turning it on one-handed, I don't quite catch it with a solid enough torque if you will and when I twist then let go, the light turns off. This is not because of poor contact or anything like that - it's just my technique. I find that I can operate it far more reliably by using two hands when initially turning it on - and then when I "know" where the stopping point is for for "tight", I can easily & reliably operate it one-handed.

So....... (takes deep breath) lol..... my primary reason to get this in clicky is to have a more reliable operation when I NEED to turn this light on quickly and with one hand.

Secondarily, I just dig the aesthetics of the D series in general, and I like the new "smoky, antiqued?" looking bezel on the clickies. What would you call that "color" anyway?

Thirdarily (hehe), and in spite of potential issues with the XT-E R5, I do like the upgraded emitter choices (XM-L T6 Neutral!) and pretty much all of the newer operational benefits pointed out by JHC. And thanks JHC for pointing all that out!



One thing I didn't quite understand with the programmable moonlight mode thing - the manual said that you can either bright OR dim all the outputs in mode 1? Sounds like you can customize the output levels? The manual tells you how to get to that option, but it doesn't elaborate on how to choose brightening or dimming of the outputs? Or is that just not quite what it was trying to say anyway? lol :duh2:
EDIT:

Okay - here, the manual says it a lot better than I -

*Programmable Features*
1) Moonlight output - *dim or*
*increase the entire output range*
*of the group 1 output*. Toggle this
setting starting with head loosen,
turn on the light, and then repeat
tight and loose for three times.
2) mode memory* - remebers the
last output in group 1. To toggle
this setting, with head tighten,
turn on the light, and repeat loose
and tight for three times.
* This feature does not apply for D25A clicky model

*Ah ha!* It also make a lot more sense to just do this while holding the actual light in your hands! It does exactly what it says it does - by doing the tight/loose thing 3 times with the light on in group 1 mode, the overall output of any of the 3 brightness levels with be dimmed a little. And once dimmed, do the tight/loose thing 3 times again and you make the output just a tad brighter for the 3 brightness modes in group 1 - or perhaps actually just back to default. :thumbsup:


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## nullmodem (Apr 27, 2012)

Well, I received my D25LC2 clicky from illuminationgear yesterday. A few quick observations:
-the build quality seems a little lower than my D25LC2 twisty (subjective)
-threads not anodized
-flickers when turning head loose with light on until ~ 1/4 turn...annoying
-using the rear clicky to change modes requires a relatively light touch. I am afraid I might accidentally switch modes frequently (time will tell)
-loosening the rear cap does NOT prevent battery connection! you can start to twist the rear cap off and the light will come on/stay on all the way until the cap comes off! This is the biggest drawback I see as the light can come on accidentally in a pack/bag.

Will add more thoughts/observations later.


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## nullmodem (Apr 27, 2012)

some more observations on my D25LC2 clicky ( XM-L U2 cool white):

-the light output is great!
-Turbo not much brighter than high in group 1
-15 hrs at 50 otf lm makes this a great camping light
-threads are rough in my light
-sealing not perfect...a light splash to clean the light and the lens is fogged on the inside! argh...this one may be going back.

Would love to hear other owners first impressions.


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## zenbeam (Apr 27, 2012)

OK then. Got my D25LC2 from illuminationgear today along with a body tube to covert my D25C twisty to a clickie (in operation). 

The D25LC2 (XN-L T6 Neutral):

+Fortunately, I did not have any connection issues like flickering when turning head or tail while on. And my threads (not anodized either) were actually quite smooth. I did clean it some though prior to use with a can of compressed air. 

+The overall build quality seems "very good", but like nullmodem said, my original D25C twisty feels better built still. 

+The output is awesome and I love the neutral tint (I have mostly been going with cool white and wanted to see more natural color outdoors). This light looks so beautiful lighting up my neighbors tall palm trees and my pine trees, etc. The natural color rendition is great - but then that's more a case for neutral tint than for the new D clickies. But the output is just as nullmodem described - and yes, the turbo doesn't seem much brighter than the high of mode 2, but it is distinctly brighter. 

- Mine does not tailstand very well. Too wobbly, the switch boot protrudes just a bit too far past the tail for a stable, flat tailstand. I am going to work with illuminationgear to get that fixed. Tailstanding isn't necessarily a deal breaker, but for this kind of money, I want the product to work as advertised at minimum. 






- One more note, the contact point where the positive terminal of the battery touches appeared rather dirty for a brand new item - and compared with the rest of the light's condition. I initially tried cleaning it with an alcohol patch and it would not clean up with that. In fact, it made it seem more like wear than dirt? I have some contact cleaner that I will try next - but at least the contact does work. It just seemed sloppy-ish.

- The snap on the holster broke right away. When I first opened the holster, I noticed that it unsnapped way too easily. So I closed it again and noticed that it snapped together way too easily and then once again opened way too easily. So I closed it again and applied moderate pressure and it snapped more firmly this time - and I thought that this fixed the issue and I will just have to apply a bit more pressure when snapping it closed.... and when I opened it this time, the "female" half of the snap broke away from the flap and remained snapped to the "male" half of the snap! Bummer. 





So, I called illuminationgear and spoke with Tod. He is ordering more holsters from EagleTac to have spares and will replace mine as soon as he can. I overlooked mentioning the tailstand issue when I spoke with him, but I mentioned it in my subsequent email to him that included some of the photos in this post - and I did ask him to go ahead and count me in for tailcap replacement if would (he had mentioned ordering a bunch of spare tailcaps too and I didn't ask why!).

While speaking with Tod, I was more concerned about the holster and another issue with the D25C clicky converter body tube as follows:
______________________________________________________________________________



The D25C "twisty to clicky" body tube for $20.99:

- It seemed kind of messed up from the get go. The first thing I noticed was that the rubber switch boot appeared to be "crooked" and you could see that part of it did not seem to be fully inserted inside the tail cap. I tried pushing that portion in some, but with limited success. It does function at least, but I highly doubt it helps with the waterproof design.








- On the inside of the tube, at the tailcap spring area, the usual two holes found intended to be used for opening the tail cap were covered in two small blobs of solder. It just plain looked sloppy compared with the few other EagleTac tail switch "innards" I've seen. And now how am I supposed to service the tailcap - like cleaning switch contacts or replacing the rubber boot?








When I was discussing this with Tod on the phone, I didn't really express that I would like to exchange it because I thought that by pushing that portion of the boot back in, things would be fine. But now when I look at the switch area, the boot is still not properly seated. Not to mention, I won't be able to open the tail cap to service or replace the boot either! I think something went wrong in production and they just salvaged this tube and let it slide. I have already re-emailed Tod to update the request to exchange this item. 

+ The body tube does successfully and very nicely so convert the function of an existing twisty D - to a very satisfying clicky D! And it does tailstand like it should too. 
______________________________________________________________________________


So, I've already sent an email to Tod with photos of some of the issues. I am sure he will work it out with me and all will be well in the end. But overall, my confidence in EagleTac has had its first jolt today. 

Please note that this does not reflect negatively on illuminationgear.com or Tod. So far, he has acted precisely as any good, honest merchant would. I am looking forward to having some of this resolved of course. :naughty:
________________________________________________________________________________

My initial impression of the EagleTac D25LC2 XM-L T6? In spite of the tailstand issue and the less than "spiffy new" looking contact point - the light, while somehow feeling rushed to market.... in the overall... kicks butt! :thumbsup:


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## jhc37013 (Apr 28, 2012)

Well thanks zenbeam for all that really good info and pics, I would never have believed that ET would release a body tube so shabby unless I scene those pics. That tailcap shocks me really, like you say how is someone suppose to maintenance the tailcap switch.

Does the new Clicky share the same tailcap design or does it actually have two holes to access the switch and boot? It's great Tod is someone you can count on and it sucks both you and him have to deal with this.


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## zenbeam (Apr 28, 2012)

jhc37013 said:


> Well thanks zenbeam for all that really good info and pics, I would never have believed that ET would release a body tube so shabby unless I scene those pics. That tailcap shocks me really, like you say how is someone suppose to maintenance the tailcap switch.
> 
> Does the new Clicky share the same tailcap design or does it actually have two holes to access the switch and boot? It's great Tod is someone you can count on and it sucks both you and him have to deal with this.



The new actual clicky D25LC2 I got has a beautiful tail cap with two very nice service holes and clean and shiny and spiffy new! lol But that converter tube sure skipped the QC dept.!
I didn't mention it here (but commented to Tod) that the clicky converter tube also had a good number of tiny, silvery spots throughout the anodization - we sort of concluded it was dust from machine work and some of it was - coming off with compressed air blasts, but some of it was actual missing anodization spots. The actual clicky D25LC2 body had solid, jet black anodization with no silvery spots at all. There was a distinct difference in build quality between the converter tube and the actual clicky model. 

Added plus note for the D25LC2 clicky - I really love the UI overall and man, did I mention this things blasts out the light!!! :thumbsup:


I'm trying to be objective in offering my initial experiences in this and hope not - at all - to dissuade anyone from enjoying themselves a new clicky model if they were intending to. :thumbsup:


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## jhc37013 (Apr 28, 2012)

Well I'm glad to hear the good news about the D25LC2 but don't understand why the spare tube has that funky tailcap.


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## shelm (Apr 28, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> The new actual clicky D25LC2 I got has a beautiful tail cap with two very nice service holes and clean and shiny and spiffy new! lol But that converter tube sure skipped the QC dept.!
> I didn't mention it here (but commented to Tod) that the clicky converter tube also had a good number of tiny, silvery spots throughout the anodization - we sort of concluded it was dust from machine work and some of it was - coming off with compressed air blasts, but some of it was actual missing anodization spots. The actual clicky D25LC2 body had solid, jet black anodization with no silvery spots at all. There was a distinct difference in build quality between the converter tube and the actual clicky model.
> 
> Added plus note for the D25LC2 clicky - I really love the UI overall and man, did I mention this things blasts out the light!!! :thumbsup:
> ...


i always ask my dealers to quality check the light before they wrap it up for shipment. imho dealers are the last front line of QC before a light should get shipped to the final destination, the retail customer. i am interested in Eagtac clickies too sent from my iphone using tapatalk.


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## ClassicGOD (Apr 28, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> - On the inside of the tube, at the tailcap spring area, the usual two holes found intended to be used for opening the tail cap were covered in two small blobs of solder. It just plain looked sloppy compared with the few other EagleTac tail switch "innards" I've seen. And now how am I supposed to service the tailcap - like cleaning switch contacts or replacing the rubber boot?


In normal D25 series you unscrew the part with lanyard holes and clip to get to the other end of the tube (just grab it and twist  ). There are no service holes near the spring. You should try that.


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## sspc (Apr 28, 2012)

Great details/info guys. I think I'll stay put with my twisty for awhile. I thought the only thing that would make the D25LC2 better would be a clicky, but the change in pocket clip combined with some of the QC issues mentioned here makes me think the twisty is still a better light than the clicky.


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## orbital (Apr 28, 2012)

+

Moon mode lumen estimation by eye?


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## sspc (Apr 28, 2012)

orbital said:


> +
> 
> Moon mode lumen estimation by eye?


I thought I saw on Eagletacs stat sheet that only the D25AA and D25C have moon mode


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## nullmodem (Apr 28, 2012)

zenbeam, can you try to loosen the tail cap to see if you can still turn the light on? On mine, it doesn't matter how much I loosen the tail cap, the contact is still maintained and I can turn the light on even with the tail cap _barely _screwed on.

Also, curious to see if your light can withstand a light dousing in water. Mine leaks into the reflector.

Thanks


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## orbital (Apr 28, 2012)

sspc said:


> I thought I saw on Eagletacs stat sheet that only the D25AA and D25C have moon mode



..from ET web page on the D25LC2 Clicky:

*Programmable settings
*

_Moonlight output (disable by default) - disable or enable the moonlight output. The entire output range of the group 1 output will be shifted to a brighter output set or a dimmer output set accordingly. Toggle this setting starting with head loosen, turn on the light, and then repeat tight and loose for three times._


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## lebox97 (Apr 28, 2012)

Hi Guy's n Gal's
good to hear the good-bad-ugly, this make for better products. 
And new products sometimes have little glitches that need to be worked out...

first off - the NON-HA threads is probably related to the lawsuit currently going on by another manufacturer claiming a patent related to HA threads, 
so until that is settled - I think many manufacturers are t*H*reading lightly.  
You can read up about it on CPFMP (thus leave comments good/bad about the patent lawsuit OVER ON CPFMP thread... so we can stay on topic here otherwise this thread will get locked)

Anodized threads allow a lockout ability due to anodizing not being electrically conductive (in our low voltage flashlight world) = 
*NO* anodize = *NO* lock out.
NO anodize = less smooth feel to the twisting as it is bare metal... this is where a good lube (we use super-lube) makes for smooth action, but being bare aluminum metal, the routine maintenance is also going to be a little higher on non-HA vs HA threads. (PS: biggest cause of non-smooth twisting regardless of thread type is a dry o-rings, so keep the o-rings lubed with a good synthetic lube for the best twist action)

I believe this added machining to the threads is source of all the aluminum dust/specks mentioned, we saw this ourselves - and were not happy until we realized most/all of aluminum dust/specks wiped off! 

I spoke with Dan (EagleTac Owner) about the snap concerns on the D25 holsters earlier this year, 
that is first one I have heard of that actually pulled apart, generally the comments are related to how easy it was to pop open the flap when pressure is applied from side...
thus begins the challenge - easy open snaps, or tight snaps that can cause damage to snap/holster? (some suggest Velcro instead of snaps - but that has it's own set of pro/con)

overall - after EDC carrying several of these models since the beginning of the week - *ME LIKEY!* 

FYI I have sent [email protected] the link to this thread so he can review the feedback.

but as always if there is a warranty or satisfaction concern with a product - contact your reseller for resolution.

Cheers
Tod


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## zenbeam (Apr 28, 2012)

ClassicGOD said:


> In normal D25 series you unscrew the part with lanyard holes and clip to get to the other end of the tube (just grab it and twist  ). There are no service holes near the spring. You should try that.



That isn't going to happen with this converter tube. Oddly enough though, I was in fact able to get part of the tail cap to turn about an 1/8th of a turn (doing just what you suggested), and that was not easy. It would not go any further. I also watched the spring part inside and it did not rotate at all as I did this. I turned it back to where it was. There is definitely no threading there for any kind of tail cap removal that way. I was actually surprised that it turned at all, albeit very stiffly at that.




nullmodem said:


> zenbeam, can you try to loosen the tail cap to see if you can still turn the light on? On mine, it doesn't matter how much I loosen the tail cap, the contact is still maintained and I can turn the light on even with the tail cap _barely _screwed on.
> 
> Also, curious to see if your light can withstand a light dousing in water. Mine leaks into the reflector.
> 
> Thanks



See lebox97's post above (Tod @ illuminationgear) regarding the lack of anodized threading. But FYI, mine won't lock out no matter what position I screw the tail cap to.

Douse in water.... hmmmmm..... lol. I'm a bit hesitant at this point to try that. Perhaps after I get my tail cap replacement? Yeah, I know it's supposed to be IPX8 and all that, but still. hehe... douse in water he says. 

In general, I don't mind not having a lockout ability and I think as long as the threads are kept clean and like lebox97 said, the o-ring (more especially) remains lubed - non-anodized threading shouldn't detract too much from the overall experience. However, I am not without understanding of the reasoning behind a lockout function and I do find the lawsuit situation interesting. I remember a similar thing with a safety lock for fully-automatic pocket knives - a manufacturer filed for copyright infringement and all others had to start leaving that feature off their knives. But if you ask me, this should lead to creative innovation yes? 

BTW - Tod @ illuminationgear has emailed me agreeing to replace the clicky converter tube, the holster _and_ the tail cap for the D25LC2 with one that will tailstand properly (as worthy replacement parts are received from ET). That's just good solid customer service right there. And I'm enjoying playing a small role in the correctional process - even if rather inadvertently.


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## zenbeam (Apr 28, 2012)

ClassicGOD said:


> In normal D25 series you unscrew the part with lanyard holes and clip to get to the other end of the tube (just grab it and twist  ). There are no service holes near the spring. You should try that.



And then I replied -



zenbeam said:


> That isn't going to happen with this converter tube. Oddly enough though, I was in fact able to get part of the tail cap to turn about an 1/8th of a turn (doing just what you suggested), and that was not easy. It would not go any further. I also watched the spring part inside and it did not rotate at all as I did this. I turned it back to where it was. There is definitely no threading there for any kind of tail cap removal that way. I was actually surprised that it turned at all, albeit very stiffly at that.



lol @ me - the "normal" D25 series lights (meaning twisties) don't have anything to service in the tail cap! No switch contacts to clean and no rubber switch boot to replace. No service holes for unscrewing because there is no hidden compartment beneath the spring. 

But still, it was worth a twist to see if the end of the tail cap would come off of the clicky converter tube. And in it's non-removal, this further seals the fact that with my tube at least, there is an issue with user serviceability. 

Sorry - hehe... I just had to point out that I did rather fall for that one. :devil:


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## zenbeam (Apr 28, 2012)

orbital said:


> +
> 
> Moon mode lumen estimation by eye?



I don't think I've gained enough experience to eyeball-judge lumens very well, so I have to give a range here and say maybe 5 - 12 lumens. Tint, emitter type and reflector type can throw that off I think at lower levels too. And that guess is after doing the tight/loose thing 3 times to dim the overall output of group 1. 

I know some folks here consider 0.3 or so lumens a firefly mode. I'm not sure what output(s) fall within true moon mode range. It is simply the low setting in group 1 after doing the moon mode maneuver (did I just coin a new phrase? "the moon mode maneuver" hmmmm...). that I referred to for this.


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## ClassicGOD (Apr 28, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> lol @ me - the "normal" D25 series lights (meaning twisties) don't have anything to service in the tail cap! No switch contacts to clean and no rubber switch boot to replace. No service holes for unscrewing because there is no hidden compartment beneath the spring.
> 
> But still, it was worth a twist to see if the end of the tail cap would come off of the clicky converter tube. And in it's non-removal, this further seals the fact that with my tube at least, there is an issue with user serviceability.
> 
> Sorry - hehe... I just had to point out that I did rather fall for that one. :devil:


I don't have my D25Cs with me right now but if I remember correctly there is a peace of blank PCB under the tail cap with spring attached to it - that's why I got the idea that maybe Clicky version may have a similar method of tail cap dissasembly which would explain why there are no service holes. I didn't want to trick you, I just wanted to suggest a possible solution


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## orbital (Apr 28, 2012)

^

zenbeam, thanks for checking,..
the reason I ask, the Lowest on the D25LC2 twisty is a bit high to be a true Low {listed as 3lm,, its actually closer to 10lm}

Hopefully there is someone out there that has both clicky & twisty, for a Lowest mode comparison.:thumbsup:


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## zenbeam (Apr 28, 2012)

ClassicGOD said:


> I don't have my D25Cs with me right now but if I remember correctly there is a peace of blank PCB under the tail cap with spring attached to it - that's why I got the idea that maybe Clicky version may have a similar method of tail cap dissasembly which would explain why there are no service holes. I didn't want to trick you, I just wanted to suggest a possible solution



No problemo. I had to kid around a bit with that.

Actually, it was a good suggestion. It was just the after thought kind of made me scratch my head... like, huh? lol

Personally, I think EagleTac miscalculated what was destined to become a veritable outcry for rear clicky switched D-series flashlights. IMHO, they should've had the series rear-clickied from day one.


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## hatman (Apr 28, 2012)

First impressions:

Using EagleTac's 18650, the D25LC2 is bright!

This light is just a tad longer and wider than the Quark 123(2), which doesn't accept 18650s.
F&F is on a par with the Quarks.
The clip and the threads look the same as the Quark's and the Quark tailcap tool also fits the ET.

My ET did need just a bit of tightening, so I was glad I had the Quark tool.

At first try, the beam on my NW D25LC2 seems a bit whiter than the beam on my ZL SC600W.
I like them both. The output is comparable. The ET is much lighter and a lot easier to pocket-carry.

These are good lights and Tod's service was first-rate -- ordered Thursday afternoon, package arrived on Saturday.

I also got a NW D25A along with ET's 14500 batteries.
This little baby is screaming bright but quickly warms up and gets hot.

The D25A is comparable in size to the Nitecore D10, but is a bit shorter, thinner and much lighter in weight.
The D10 uses my favorite deep-pocket clip and the clip on the D25A looks very similar.
This clicky ET is a great size for EDCing

We're having storms tonight and I can hardly wait to give both these lights a try. First impression is that they look very promising.


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## reppans (Apr 29, 2012)

Too bad there's no moonlight (or sub-lumen level) on the high voltage ETs..



hatman said:


> I also got a NW D25A along with ET's 14500 batteries.
> This little baby is screaming bright but quickly warms up and gets hot..



Is it true that the D25A is direct drive on a 14500?... Do you lose the lower modes?


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## sspc (Apr 29, 2012)

hatman said:


> The D25A is comparable in size to the Nitecore D10, but is a bit shorter, thinner and much lighter in weight.
> The D10 uses my favorite deep-pocket clip and the clip on the D25A looks very similar.
> This clicky ET is a great size for EDCing
> 
> We're having storms tonight and I can hardly wait to give both these lights a try. First impression is that they look very promising.



How does the output of the D25A compare to the Nitecore D10 with both using NIMH batts? Im considering replacing my sometimes flaky D10 with the D25A so your thoughts of these lights side by side would be appreciated (Im excited about the D25A being slightly smaller and I love the deep carry pocket clip)


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## Jmantyger (Apr 29, 2012)

I received the D25LC2 Clicky Tube for my twisty from Illumination Gear. Todd shipped mine promptly-ordered Thursday received Saturday. My tube is perfect and performs flawlessly. It even tail-stands quite well.


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## hatman (Apr 29, 2012)

reppans said:


> Too bad there's no moonlight (or sub-lumen level) on the high voltage ETs..
> 
> 
> 
> Is it true that the D25A is direct drive on a 14500?... Do you lose the lower modes?



If the lower modes are there, I can't find them using a 14500!

Yes, I'd say you lose them.

As to comparison with my two Nitecore D10s (an R2 and a Tribute), there is no clear winner. Using 14500s, the D25A is quite noticebably brighter, and the beam is warmer and more filled in.

It is a lot of light from a very tiny, skinny flashlight. It would not surprise me to find that it measures 500 lumens. 

If weight and size are a consideration, this is what I want for emergencies or backup. I can see EDCing it in my pants pocket, especially on days when I get home before it starts to get dark, I am lightly dressed and don't want to carry anything heavy.

I'd call it the flashlight equivalent of my thin, 2.5 oz Spyderco Salt I.

The tradeoff is how quickly it gets warm and then hot! You will not be able to leave this light on, using lith ion rechargeables. I have not tried it with NIMH cells. It will be interesting to see if those give the little ET less light and heat with longer times.

FOLLOW-UP:

With a primary AA cell substituted for the 14500, the lower modes return. The output is decent but nothing special, closer to what you might expect for a small light.

The wow factor comes only with a 14500 -- but due to the heat, you'll soon be turning it off.


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## Animalmother (Apr 29, 2012)

I wanna see that XT-E in action.


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## sspc (Apr 29, 2012)

Thanks hatman for the details


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## sspc (Apr 29, 2012)

sspc said:


> I thought I saw on Eagletacs stat sheet that only the D25AA and D25C have moon mode





orbital said:


> ..from ET web page on the D25LC2 Clicky:
> 
> *Programmable settings
> *
> ...


Thank you...I had that confused with mode memory which is listed as available only on the D25A2 and D25C.


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## reppans (Apr 29, 2012)

sspc, I think your orginal post was correct. According to ETs comparison sheet, the 2.7-8.4v heads have a minimum of 5 lumens... So no moonlight, unless you consider 5lms to be it.


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## orbital (Apr 29, 2012)

reppans said:


> sspc, I think your orginal post was correct. According to ETs comparison sheet, the 2.7-8.4v heads have a minimum of 5 lumens... So no moonlight, unless you consider 5lms to be it.



If this is true, about not having a true Low mode using Li-ion, 
EagleTac dropped the ball.

......so many modes & not a true Low


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## af112566 (Apr 29, 2012)

could have sworn they advertised a .5 lumen moon mode,thats why i bought the d25a.if not im going to be really upset:thumbsdow
if this is the case in guess in sticking to 4 sevens and zebralight.


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## reppans (Apr 29, 2012)

af112566 said:


> could have sworn they advertised a .5 lumen moon mode,thats why i bought the d25a.if not im going to be really upset:thumbsdow
> if this is the case in guess in sticking to 4 sevens and zebralight.



You should be ok... I said the high voltage heads 2.7-8.4v have 5 lm minimums.... The low voltage heads 0.8-3.2v do have 0.5 lm minimums - the D25A is LV. Anyways, this just from the D25 clicky comparison chart on the main ET website, check it it for yourselves.

I want the the D25A for the smaller size, buried disco modes and screw in clip, but think I will stay with my Quark X AA since I run a 14500. Guess you just can't have everything.


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## zenbeam (Apr 30, 2012)

Some details I just can't help but be puzzled by. I ordered the Neutral tint. I'm just a little confused that on my D25LC2 clicky's box front cover it lists the emitter as "XM-L U2". On EagleTac websites and even at illuminationgear (where I ordered mine) the "XM-L U2" is associated with Cool White, not Neutral. At EagleTac websites, they associate the "XM-L T6" with Neutral tint and at illuminationgear, both the "XM-L T6 _and_ T5" are associated with Neutral tint. Probably just a typo on the T5 thing. Heck, with all these numbers and specs and stats, editing a website for this stuff would be a nightmare. So I can surely understand the variances. 







The side of my box however has a sticker "Neutral White 4300K LED". And my eyesight clearly tells me that this light has a lovely neutral tint that especially looks awesome on greens outdoors. And I have plenty of Cool Whites, so I know the difference. No doubt that I have a Neutral White LED.







So my puzzle is this:
I definitely have a Neutral White...
but do I have a U2 or a T6?  (I _think_ T5 was a typo at the dealer's site)
What I am about to say is corny, but it is a phrase I would normally use under these circumstances - 
Can anyone shed some light on this? 


BTW - The more opportunities I have to shine this light outside at night, the more I come to respect what this light does for its size!


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## orbital (Apr 30, 2012)

^ 

ET uses the little _Neutral Tint_ sticker at the side of the box, just a simple way to show you got the goods.
The T5/6 is irrelevant because its all about the *4300K*. {there is no neutral U2}

Just to save you an unnecessary message to Tod.

_Also, Tod is a straight shooter._


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## hatman (Apr 30, 2012)

I seem to recall Tod telling me my neutral was a T6.
It is most definitely a neutral. I just wowed a colleague with the detail of the dirt he could see on his desk.


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## zenbeam (Apr 30, 2012)

@ orbital
I totally believe Tod is a straight shooter. I've spoken with him on the phone and exchanged an email or two. I didn't mean to imply otherwise. I just happen to have an eye for little mismatching details and I get curious is all. Maybe I should proof read websites for a living. lol

So by process of elimination, if there is no Neutral U2 (which I don't doubt), then ET just doesn't have a "XM-L T6" box cover and just relies on the sticker on the side to differentiate tint. Or, they do have a "XM-L T6" box cover and mistakenly put on the U2 cover on mine. 

I wasn't concerned at all about possibly being misled. I ordered a Neutral XM-L and got just that. I was just curious why ET's labeling was somewhat conflicting. :naughty:


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## orbital (Apr 30, 2012)

+

EagleTac doesn't make special boxes for their Neutral tints.
On my two T100C2s' & my D25LC2 twisty all just had the sticker,..my first T100C2 was several years ago.

My D25LC2 box, note the Neutral sticker:


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## sspc (Apr 30, 2012)

I'm still confused a bit about the listed output levels of the D25A.

Per the Eagletac website there are 4 output regular levels for this light...but I also read that there is a moonlight, low, medium, and high for group 1 and then turbo for group 2. That makes 5 regular output modes. I understand that group 1 will only display 3 of these 4 available modes and the user can program group 1 to either display moonlight, low and medium (option A) or low, medium and high (option B). 

So if I programmed the light for option B above, does the output level for high in group 1 equal the output level of turbo in group 2? Or are there actully 5 regular modes?
Is it Moon<Low<Medium<High=Turbo (only 4 different regular modes) or
Is it Moon<Low<Medium<High<Turbo (5 different regular modes)

If there are actually different levels for turbo or high, I'm curious to know the OTF output for high as the website seems to list the Turbo output.

I'm about ready to buy this one, but I would like to understand this piece better.


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## phantom23 (Apr 30, 2012)

D25A XM-L, lumens:

176/107/10/1 LED; 122/75/8/0.5 OTF ("moon" mode on) or
176/107/20/4 LED; 122/75/16/3 OTF ("moon" mode off)

Red - Turbo mode from Group 2 (head tightened).


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## zenbeam (Apr 30, 2012)

orbital said:


> +
> 
> EagleTac doesn't make special boxes for their Neutral tints.
> On my two T100C2s' & my D25LC2 twisty all just had the sticker,..my first T100C2 was several years ago.
> ...



This. Thanks.


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## BLUE LED (Apr 30, 2012)

I am disappointed with the XT-E in the D25 series, as this has been rejected by a vendor here in the UK.


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## sspc (Apr 30, 2012)

phantom23 said:


> D25A XM-L, lumens:
> 
> 176/107/10/1 LED; 122/75/8/0.5 OTF ("moon" mode on) or
> 176/107/20/4 LED; 122/75/16/3 OTF ("moon" mode off)
> ...


Thanks but where is high? I'm still looking for clarification on if there are 4 regular brightness modes (moon, low, medium, with high and turbo as the same output level) or 5 modes (moon, low, medium, with high and turbo as separate output levels)...if there are 5 modes, the output for high appears not to be listed.


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## reppans (Apr 30, 2012)

I don't have the light, but my understanding of the UI is (XML version)

Moonlight off: 8/75/100 group1; 122/strobe group2
Moonlight on: 0.5/8/75 group1; 122/strobe group2

The footnote #5 (website spec sheet) leads me to believe the only difference between Turbro and High is a 20% boost for the first 90 seconds.

If this is correct, they are not very well spaced modes IMHO..


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## zenbeam (Apr 30, 2012)

BLUE LED said:


> I am disappointed with the XT-E in the D25 series, as this has been rejected by a vendor here in the UK.



I originally ordered an XT-E and since changed since issues were reported here in the states as well. Illuminationgear sent back a batch of XT-E's to ET as well. But I sure do like the XM-L after all!


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## sspc (Apr 30, 2012)

reppans said:


> I don't have the light, but my understanding of the UI is (XML version)
> 
> Moonlight off: 8/75/100 group1; 122/strobe group2
> Moonlight on: 0.5/8/75 group1; 122/strobe group2
> ...


Thanks for this. So High is not shown in the specs but might just be 20% less than the listed turbo output. That might very well be it.

I agree with you, if this is the case, the medium mode and high mode look to be too close in output...more specifically, the medium mode appears to be too much in comparison to the top output of this light. But I still want it.


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## phantom23 (Apr 30, 2012)

reppans said:


> I don't have the light, but my understanding of the UI is (XML version)
> 
> Moonlight off: 8/75/100 group1; 122/strobe group2
> Moonlight on: 0.5/8/75 group1; 122/strobe group2


It's not like that. With moon mode on group 1 is like you said. With moon mode off 0,5lm mode doesn't disappear - two lowest modes (0,5 and 8lm) just become brighter and group 1 looks like this: 3/16/75 lumens.


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## reppans (Apr 30, 2012)

phantom23 said:


> It's not like that. With moon mode on group 1 is like you said. With moon mode off 0,5lm mode doesn't disappear - two lowest modes (0,5 and 8lm) just become brighter and group 1 looks like this: 3/16/75 lumens.



Well that's good to know... Those numbers look much more useable. Although that confuses their description further.... Are up to 7 effective lumen modes?


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## sspc (Apr 30, 2012)

phantom23 said:


> It's not like that. With moon mode on group 1 is like you said. With moon mode off 0,5lm mode doesn't disappear - two lowest modes (0,5 and 8lm) just become brighter and group 1 looks like this: 3/16/75 lumens.


Based on the diagram below (for the D25A) on Eagletac's site, this is not the case unless the terms "medium" and "high" are interchangeable.


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## af112566 (Apr 30, 2012)

i got my d25a today and i really like it.it does have a true moon mode:thumbsup:its comparable to the low on my sc600.you can look directly at the led without it hurting you eyes.it has a beautiful floody beam too.
im just using a eneloop,havnt tried a 14500 yet.the overall quality is similar to my 4 sevens lights which i like.overall this is a winner.i would like one with a xp-g next..


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## jhc37013 (Apr 30, 2012)

I can't get my D25LC2 to program is anyone else having trouble? I turn the light on with the head loose and tighten/loosen 3x and nothing, I've tried to do it very fast and I've tried it by tighten/loosen 4x. I don't know what I could be doing wrong.


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## jhc37013 (May 1, 2012)

After cleaning the light and re-lubing I'm still not able to get to moonlight mode or memory mode, also I noticed the output drop while on turbo does not throttle back until around 3 minutes, not 90 seconds like described in the manual or ET website.


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## reppans (May 1, 2012)

jhc37013 said:


> After cleaning the light and re-lubing I'm still not able to get to moonlight mode or memory mode, also I noticed the output drop while on turbo does not throttle back until around 3 minutes, not 90 seconds like described in the manual or ET website.



specs say no moonlight on the high voltage (2x123) heads?


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## phantom23 (May 1, 2012)

reppans said:


> specs say no moonlight on the high voltage (2x123) heads?


Well, there is, it's just quite bright. In D25LC2 two lowest modes have 7/61 lumens, with "moon" mode off - 18 and 100 lumens.


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## reppans (May 1, 2012)

af112566 said:


> i got my d25a today and i really like it.it does have a true moon mode:thumbsup:its comparable to the low on my sc600.you can look directly at the led without it hurting you eyes.it has a beautiful floody beam too.
> im just using a eneloop,havnt tried a 14500 yet.the overall quality is similar to my 4 sevens lights which i like.overall this is a winner.i would like one with a xp-g next..



Moonlight ~ SC600? Does that mean about 0.1 lumen, or less than a Quark's ML... not 0.5 lumens as the specs suggest? Also, could you comment on the above discussion on how the modes are different between the two group 1 settings? Do they shift ML/L/M > L/M/H, or does on the latter group just dim, effectively creating new lumen levels?


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## reppans (May 1, 2012)

phantom23 said:


> Well, there is, it's just quite bright. In D25LC2 two lowest modes have 7/61 lumens, with "moon" mode off - 18 and 100 lumens.



Oh yeah, forgot the ET semantics thing...


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## jhc37013 (May 1, 2012)

phantom23 said:


> Well, there is, it's just quite bright. In D25LC2 two lowest modes have 7/61 lumens, with "moon" mode off - 18 and 100 lumens.



Well I guess I guess I got confused I was thinking with moonlight on it would have 4 modes instead of 3.

I was thinking it would go moonlight - low - medium- high but I guess I was wrong, so does the 2xcr123 not have memory mode because I can't get that to work.


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## af112566 (May 1, 2012)

reppans,,i dont know if the monlight mode is .01 or .05 but they are close.too close to really tell much difference with my eye.as far as the groups shifting not sure whats going on there but they all get brighter except turbo,that stays the same i think.one thing they didnt get quite right is there isnt much difference between the hi and turbo.but no biggie,its still alot of features in a very slim,small light.


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## phantom23 (May 1, 2012)

jhc37013 said:


> Well I guess I guess I got confused I was thinking with moonlight on it would have 4 modes instead of 3.
> 
> I was thinking it would go moonlight - low - medium- high but I guess I was wrong, so does the 2xcr123 not have memory mode because I can't get that to work.


1. D25 clickys always have 3 modes in group 1.
2. Only D25A2 and D25C have memory.


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## zenbeam (May 1, 2012)

jhc37013 said:


> I can't get my D25LC2 to program is anyone else having trouble? I turn the light on with the head loose and tighten/loosen 3x and nothing, I've tried to do it very fast and I've tried it by tighten/loosen 4x. I don't know what I could be doing wrong.



I am able to do the moonlight thing with mine (I have now dubbed that the "moonlight maneuver") - which is considered a programmable action. 

I have not actually tested out the memory function just yet. I find the instruction not so much confusing, but rather lacking information.


*Memory Mode Questions -*
So for memory mode, once you have "toggled" the memory function, will it always remember the last mode you were in when turning the light off - and therefore turn back on in that mode (low, med, high of group 1)? And being a "toggled" mode itself, this function will remain until you "undo" it?


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## sspc (May 1, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> I have not actually tested out the memory function just yet. I find the instruction not so much confusing, but rather lacking information.
> 
> *Memory Mode Questions -*
> So for memory mode, once you have "toggled" the memory function, will it always remember the last mode you were in when turning the light off - and therefore turn back on in that mode (low, med, high of group 1)? And being a "toggled" mode itself, this function will remain until you "undo" it?


Based on Mike's (from Pacific Tactical Solutions) ad on the marketplace forum, mode memory is only available in the D25A2 and D25C.

"2) Mode memory* - remembers the last output in group 1. To toggle this setting, with head tightened, turn on the light, and repeat loose and tight three times. (* D25A2 clicky and C clicky only)"


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## zenbeam (May 1, 2012)

sspc said:


> Based on Mike's (from Pacific Tactical Solutions) ad on the marketplace forum, mode memory is only available in the D25A2 and D25C.
> 
> "2) Mode memory* - remembers the last output in group 1. To toggle this setting, with head tightened, turn on the light, and repeat loose and tight three times. (* D25A2 clicky and C clicky only)"



Glad I didn't spend any time yet experimenting with this! lol. Since I hadn't really focused all that hard on memory mode instructions, when I glanced at the (* D25A2 clicky and C clicky only), I took it to mean that it was NOT available in those lights - because heck, I have the deluxe model after all... lol. Well that's kewl, I didn't care if I had that ability or not. I like the UI just fine as is. 

Thanks for the clarification!


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## BlackhawkB (May 1, 2012)

I currently have the D25A mini twisty (with XPG-S2 then), and I am wondering if I should move to the clicky in order to get the XM-L led.
But the old one looks nicer to me, mainly because of the stainless steel ring in front in metal color, while the new one get it black.
Do you think the same ?

Is the XM-L a great improvement compared to the XPG-S2 ? (more flood but less throw ? Or same throw ? Greenish light due to the XM-L U2 ?)


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## jhc37013 (May 1, 2012)

phantom23 said:


> 1. D25 clickys always have 3 modes in group 1.
> 2. Only D25A2 and D25C have memory.



Ok thanks I guess I missed that info at CPFM, so the D25LC2 has no real moonlight or memory which is kind of a bummer but it's still a good light very bright and not much bigger than a Quark 123x2.

Now about the the turbo mode output drop, ET says on their website under the D25C2 it drops 20% after 90 secs. but I've checked it several times and it always drops in output just after 3mins, maybe the larger 2xcr123 models are 3mins because of their larger mass.

Waiting for someone else to confirm when their turbo mode drops in output, btw the drop appears to be the exact same output as high.


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## zenbeam (May 1, 2012)

@blackhawkb
I have an original twisty (D25C) and at first, I thought I would really like the blackened stainless bezel and clips of the new clickies. But for sure, I always liked the natural stainless steel colored bezel and clip on my twisty. I thought it gave the series a very nice, unique look. When I first received my D25LC2 clicky, I had to more or less convince myself that the darkened stainless was a cool effect. But in being honest with myself, after some of the "oh cool my new clicky" effect calmed down, I have to say that without the natural stainless steel accents, it doesn't feel unique anymore. Instead it feels more or less like a whole new series but with an almost generic feel rather than a unique, if not fashionable feel like the twisty. You have to be secure in your macho to use a word like "fashionable" in a forum like this. 

I don't want to field the XM-L U2 question. I will say that my twisty is an XP-G S2 and I love that beam - moderate flood, great throw for a tiny light, beautiful creamy white tint. My Fenix TK-21 has an XM-L U2 and with a much larger reflector, it throws damn great, but there is green in them thar lumens... lol. But I still love it. My D25LC2 clicky has a Neutral XM-L and is pretty floody I think because of the smaller head/reflector (as compared with the TK-21) - the throw isn't as significant and probably not as good as XP-G S2. So in general, with these D-series lights, the XM-L is more light, less throw. IMHO. And I opened this paragraph stating I didn't want to field the question... lol. 

@jhc372849 (j/k)
I haven't experimented yet with my D25LC2 turbo mode in terms of how long before the drop, but I can confirm that while it may not have the memory mode feature, it does have the moon mode effect (actually able to dim all outputs in group 1 as per instructions) - it's just a question of opinion as to how many lumens equate to "moon mode" and therefore as to whether or not the programmed dimming of the group 1 outputs should actually be called "moon mode". But dimmed they can be. :thumbsup:


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## jhc37013 (May 1, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> @jhc372849 (j/k)
> I haven't experimented yet with my D25LC2 turbo mode in terms of how long before the drop, but I can confirm that while it may not have the memory mode feature, it does have the moon mode effect (actually able to dim all outputs in group 1 as per instructions) - it's just a question of opinion as to how many lumens equate to "moon mode" and therefore as to whether or not the programmed dimming of the group 1 outputs should actually be called "moon mode". But dimmed they can be. :thumbsup:



Yes now that know what I'm looking for I can see the difference in the low and medium mode when the moonlight mode is enabled but I wouldn't call it a moonlight mode, more of a energy saving mode. Thanks


----------



## jhc37013 (May 2, 2012)

I don't really like strobes and blinky modes but I'll have to say this light has one of the most annoying strobes I've ever seen in a light, it's the second one that really gets me, it's very very quick bright and slows it's frequency after a couple seconds and then a a second or two later picks back up to that really fast frequency.

I'm not even going to try and annoy my wife with this one.


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## Danielight (May 2, 2012)

jhc37013 said:


> Ok thanks I guess I missed that info at CPFM, so the D25LC2 has no real moonlight or memory which is kind of a bummer but it's still a good light very bright and not much bigger than a Quark 123x2.
> 
> Now about the the turbo mode output drop, ET says on their website under the D25C2 it drops 20% after 90 secs. but I've checked it several times and it always drops in output just after 3mins, maybe the larger 2xcr123 models are 3mins because of their larger mass.
> 
> Waiting for someone else to confirm when their turbo mode drops in output, btw the drop appears to be the exact same output as high.


I have the D25LC2, running on an Orbtronic (Panasonic) 18650 3100mAh protected, and mine drops down from Turbo to High in about 90 seconds (per specs).


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## jhc37013 (May 2, 2012)

Danielight said:


> I have the D25LC2, running on an Orbtronic (Panasonic) 18650 3100mAh protected, and mine drops down from Turbo to High in about 90 seconds (per specs).



Well there seems to be some variation between samples for some reason because I've checked mine probably 7 or 8 times on primarys and 18650 and every time it goes from turbo to high at exactly 3mins 20secs.


----------



## cyclesport (May 2, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> I am able to do the moonlight thing with mine (I have now dubbed that the "moonlight maneuver") - which is considered a programmable action.
> 
> I have not actually tested out the memory function just yet. I find the instruction not so much confusing, but rather lacking information.
> 
> ...


----------



## af112566 (May 2, 2012)

blackhawkb,,,the d25a with the xm-l is very,very floody and a bit green on the lower setting,but pretty white at hi and turbo.its a great inside the house light,but theres no way it will out throw the xp-g version. i cant wait for the clicky xp-g to come out....


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## af112566 (May 2, 2012)

zenbeam,,,the bezel on my d25a comes off very easily.im going to lightly sand and polish it to make it look more like the twisty version.ill try to post pics when im done..


----------



## BlackhawkB (May 2, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> @blackhawkb
> I have an original twisty (D25C) and at first, I thought I would really like the blackened stainless bezel and clips of the new clickies. But for sure, I always liked the natural stainless steel colored bezel and clip on my twisty. I thought it gave the series a very nice, unique look. When I first received my D25LC2 clicky, I had to more or less convince myself that the darkened stainless was a cool effect. But in being honest with myself, after some of the "oh cool my new clicky" effect calmed down, I have to say that without the natural stainless steel accents, it doesn't feel unique anymore. Instead it feels more or less like a whole new series but with an almost generic feel rather than a unique, if not fashionable feel like the twisty. You have to be secure in your macho to use a word like "fashionable" in a forum like this.



Thanks for the reply! Indeed the original D25 is like no other flashlight with its stainless steel bezel, that's why I bought it.




af112566 said:


> blackhawkb,,,the d25a with the xm-l is very,very floody and a bit green on the lower setting,but pretty white at hi and turbo.its a great inside the house light,but theres no way it will out throw the xp-g version. i cant wait for the clicky xp-g to come out....



I see, I guess XP-G leds might be better for small flashlight, it provides the best throw/flood ratio.



af112566 said:


> zenbeam,,,the bezel on my d25a comes off very easily.im going to lightly sand and polish it to make it look more like the twisty version.ill try to post pics when im done..



Oh really ?
In my D25A twisty, everything is glued together. There is no way to remove anything.


----------



## zenbeam (May 2, 2012)

af112566 said:


> zenbeam,,,the bezel on my d25a comes off very easily.im going to lightly sand and polish it to make it look more like the twisty version.ill try to post pics when im done..



Could be interesting... but be careful. Good luck!


----------



## salimoneus (May 2, 2012)

BlackhawkB said:


> In my D25A twisty, everything is glued together. There is no way to remove anything.



That's incorrect, the stainless part of the D25A twisty bezel does indeed screw off by itself. It's tough to grip but it will come off allowing access to the lens, etc. At least that's how mine is.


----------



## sspc (May 2, 2012)

Originally Posted by *af112566* 

 
zenbeam,,,the bezel on my d25a comes off very easily.im going to lightly sand and polish it to make it look more like the twisty version.ill try to post pics when im done..




BlackhawkB said:


> Oh really ?
> In my D25A twisty, everything is glued together. There is no way to remove anything.



Try it again with a little more force. The ss bezel should unscrew. I have removed mine and placed a piece of color film over the lense to change the tint on mine.


----------



## zenbeam (May 2, 2012)

jhc37013 said:


> I don't really like strobes and blinky modes but I'll have to say this light has one of the most annoying strobes I've ever seen in a light, it's the second one that really gets me, it's very very quick bright and slows it's frequency after a couple seconds and then a a second or two later picks back up to that really fast frequency.
> 
> I'm not even going to try and annoy my wife with this one.



I think the theory behind that highly erratic strobe is to prolong the effect of disorientation on a would be assailant or aggressor. And if they happen to be prone to epileptic seizure... they're going down!

But that erratic strobe is one of the hidden ones in group 1 yes? I still don't understand the tactical advantage of having hidden strobe modes - but I suppose there are other uses for strobe than just disorienting attackers. 

I DO love how easy it is to access both Turbo mode AND the Strobe in group two (bezel tightened). Now _that_ is tactical.


----------



## salimoneus (May 2, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> But that erratic strobe is one of the hidden ones in group 1 yes? I still don't understand the tactical advantage of having hidden strobe modes - but I suppose there are other uses for strobe than just disorienting attackers.



A moderate/slow strobe can be very useful as a directional/location device. For instance when nature calls at 3am on a camping trip, you can strobe out a tent light so you can easily find your way back without having to actually wake up and think 

I personally find little value in a fast/tactical strobe mode, a simple defense for that is for the attacker to put a hand up blocking the direct light but leaving the target illuminated, plus it also disorients the holder/target/victim when they should be arming themselves with a real weapon or taking evasive action.


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## BlackhawkB (May 2, 2012)

sspc said:


> Originally Posted by *af112566*
> 
> 
> zenbeam,,,the bezel on my d25a comes off very easily.im going to lightly sand and polish it to make it look more like the twisty version.ill try to post pics when im done..
> ...



Awesome, I will try it again then.
Does it mean we can access the driver, and boost it ? :naughty:


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## jhc37013 (May 3, 2012)

cyclesport said:


> Since my copy of the D25LC2 can’t access moonlight, I’m unable to see if it retains its memory if indeed I could get it to go into moonlight mode. The D25C _does_ retain its memory whether it’s in low or moonlight. A very desirable feature in my IMO…so I’m hoping EagleTac will replace my defective light or head. BTW both of my lights are XM-L U2 in case that has an impact of their functionality.



Read back through the thread starting at post #113 through about post #127, there is nothing wrong with our light's it's just the "moonlight" mode is onot really a true moonlight but only slightly dimmer than the other low mode. I think it was said one is 7 lumens and the other is 18, also with moonlight enabled you will notice a slightly dimmer medium mode.

The best way to see the difference is do a ceiling bounce test, also our light's are not suppose to have memory we just thought they did. I had it all wrong as well, for some reason I though the single cell D25's running on Li-ion was the one's which did not have a moonlight or memory.


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## zenbeam (May 3, 2012)

Welper... Here is an update to my "clicky-D issues"... lol. 

Disclaimer:
Illuminationgear.com is doing a great job and Tod is just left holding the ball after ET dumped some sloppy work on him and I'm sure other online retailers. My disappointment is with ET and specifically this new line of clicky-D's.

Today I got an email from Tod at IG stating that my replacement holster for the D25LC2 has shipped - along with a replacement D25C clicky converter tube. For those who missed it earlier in this thread, I'm the one who had the button pop off the holster and received the unservice-able clicky converter tube for my D25C twisty (the switch boot was bunched up under the tail cap and the switch plate had solder blobs right where there should be service holes used to unscrew the plate). 

So far so good, but in that email Tod also had to give me the unfortunate news that ET had given to him regarding the unstable tailstanding. ET was going to ship Tod replacement tail caps to ship to those of us with the issue... was. ET it seems had deemed that the flaw was simply that the switch plate cover had been over tightened in lights with the issue causing the rubber switch boot to protrude enough to prevent stable tailstanding. So Tod had no choice (and believe me, I could tell he was not happy with ET's response to this issue) but to give me ET's brilliant suggestion to "unscrew the switch plate in the tail cap about 1/2 to 1 full turn" to restore tailstanding capability.

Well... it is easier for me now to paste in here my response to that after arriving home tonight and trying that suggestion out:



> I managed to get that tail cap switch plate loosened enough to get a good tailstand. BUT.... it was a bear to get it to start to loosen in the first place and I did get some very minor scratches on the metal at and around the access holes. I had to turn it about a full turn to get a secure tailstand, but then the light started flickering from poor contact. So I tightened the switch plate somewhat and got a "mildy wobbly yet better than before" tailstand - and no flicker. But even at this adjustment, I don't feel that the switch plate is secure enough to prevent coming loose with some use and the light flickering again, wash rinse repeat. A tail cap switch plate should be tight and secure anyway - no?
> 
> Quite frankly, I believe the engineering is off. The D25C twisty and theP20A2 MKII that I own are both perfectly engineered from top to bottom. And for the price of this light, I expect to NOT have to either give up an advertised feature that factored in to my overall purchase decision (secure tailstand) or go around re-tightening the tail cap switch plate periodically to maintain proper contact for light function.
> 
> ...




Again - I hope you can tell by the tone of my email response above that I know Tod and illuminationgear is not at fault whatsoever and I totally appreciate everything Tod has done in the name of customer service - he has done excellently for that matter and this is my first transaction with him - and it won't be my last (if he will have me as a customer after all this... lol). 

So at this point, I am really hoping that the clicky converter tube replacement that is on the way to me now, will be in great shape. I really liked having my twisty D25C converted to a clicky - very kewl. And if Tod will let me exchange that D25LC2 Clicky, I will get a tried and true product from his store. Maybe never to re-consider another clicky-D model? Hmmmmmmmm.......


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## Erik1213 (May 3, 2012)

Have any of you pre-ordered from eagletac-usa.com? If so, have you received a shipping notice for your lights? I ordered 4/16 and have not received any word yet.


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## jhc37013 (May 4, 2012)

ET could probably have a fix with just a new switch and boot or maybe even one or the other with just a newly designed boot possibly a little thinner, but unfortunately this is nothing new, well maybe new to ET but it's happened over and over again with other manufactures.

Just like ET there was always word a fix will come but I don't recall it ever happening, I've never understood how this could pass as ok especially if it is announced as a feature of the light. btw my D25LC2 wobbles as well


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## zenbeam (May 4, 2012)

And I almost forgot in all this that I started by ordering a D25LC2 with the new XT-E R5 emitter - which as we know was rejected by more than one retailer and shipped back to ET. That was a disappointment from the start.

ET USA now has all of their XT-E R5 clicky-D listings labeled as "sold out". I saw that and thought, "oh... right". None of the other emitter models are listed as such. Why not just post up that they're having technical difficulties with that emitter? 

BTW, it took almost a solid week from the time ETUSA (aka PTS) agreed to cancel and refund my pre-order to the time I actually got credit back to my PayPal account. I wonder how much scrambling they'e had to do to deal with pre-orders for models with the XT-E R5? They should learn a lesson from Amazon and not charge anything until the unit ships to the customer.


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## BlackhawkB (May 7, 2012)

I finally succeded in removing the bezel of my D25. I can also remove the reflector and get to the LED.
Anyone knows how to remove the driver ? It seems it has to be removed from the battery size, not the front size, but how ?
I definitely would like to boost my D25 on AA


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## Animalmother (May 7, 2012)

What was wrong with XTE emitter??? I had such high hopes for this emitter.


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## zenbeam (May 8, 2012)

Animalmother said:


> What was wrong with XTE emitter??? I had such high hopes for this emitter.


According to illuminationgear, they returned their whole batch of XT-E models to ET due to splotchy beam patterns with yellow and other off colors strewn about in the beam. Okay... so that's based on general recollection, not an exact quote - but I think the original post is in this very thread a few pages back.


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## zenbeam (May 8, 2012)

And this whole saga has worked out with a happy ending. Tod with illuminationgear is a verified merchant of excellence. And EagleTac hasn't completely lost my faith in them.

I got my D25C clicky converter tube replaced and the new one seemed to be of EagleTac quality this time around - the switch boot was properly seated and there was very little machine-dust on the finish (and no signs of worn anodizing). The little bits of solder that seemed to prevent user service inside the tail cap are still there, but you know.. I think it is just part of the design and if you take good care of it, you may never really need to go in there anyway. My D25C "twisty" is now a "clicky" and I get to continue using that great XP-G S2 and enjoy those wonderfully silver colored stainless steel bezel and clip parts!

And so since I now have a "custom clicky", it made it even easier to return my D25LC2 clicky for a refund. Yup. It turned out there simply was no solid fix for the tail stand issue. I originally wanted the XT-E R5 anyway and it turned out I didn't care too greatly for the new color of the stainless steel parts after all. So I returned the whole thing, including the replacement holster that Tod w/illuminationgear had shipped out to me so lightning fast!

So how do I fill the void left by returning the D25LC2 clicky? Oops... too late... Once I knew I was shipping it back (it went out tonight as a matter of fact), I turned around and ordered a Zebralight SC600 in Cool White from illuminationgear.com - also shipped lightning fast and as of today in fact, it is sitting right in front of me as I type. :thumbsup:

And he rode off into the sunset in search of his next quality control dilemma to solve... :wave:


And seriously... many thanks to Tod @ illuminationgear.com for dealing so very straightforward with me in resolving these issues! 

And EagleTac.... I haven't given up on you just yet... After all, I still read at night with my diffused P2OA2 MKII. But let's get that QC dept. back on track eh? 




zenbeam said:


> Welper... Here is an update to my "clicky-D issues"... lol.
> 
> Disclaimer:
> Illuminationgear.com is doing a great job and Tod is just left holding the ball after ET dumped some sloppy work on him and I'm sure other online retailers. My disappointment is with ET and specifically this new line of clicky-D's.
> ...


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## Animalmother (May 8, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> According to illuminationgear, they returned their whole batch of XT-E models to ET due to splotchy beam patterns with yellow and other off colors strewn about in the beam. Okay... so that's based on general recollection, not an exact quote - but I think the original post is in this very thread a few pages back.



I just read it, that's a bummer
I hope they get worked out, well... whatever is going on that is. I was very curious about the beam profile but can understand why they sent them back.
I hope it all gets worked out. I still have hopes for the emitter. 

Thank you for the reply.


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## belomeclone (May 8, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> And EagleTac.... I haven't given up on you just yet... After all, I still read at night with my diffused P2OA2 MKII. But let's get that QC dept. back on track eh?



Their T20 is a very solid flashlight, probably closer to what you wanted.

I wanted a new keychain light. EagleTac USA has ignored my emails however, and I'm at a loss as to what to do right now. They have my money and are not giving me even a response on my light, or a response on what they will do to make up for this to me.


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## jhc37013 (May 8, 2012)

After carrying and testing the D25LC2 XM-L clicky the this past I'm very happy with this light, yes at first I was terribly bummed it did not have a true moonlight mode, ET calls it moonlight but as it's been said the 2xcr123 models only get as low as about 7 lumens.

It's kind of funny actually I use to be one of the members that loathed the moonlight modes but the past few months it's grown on me and I find it very useful.

So getting past the no moonlight mode issue the Eagletac D25LC2 offers so much for a EDC light. 

D25LC2 Clicky 

Pro's - 
: Over 500 lumens
: Pretty decent throw for a XM-L because of the rather deep reflector (for a small light). You guys waiting on the XT-E to get sorted should get a good throwing pocket light in a compact size.
: The size, it's only slightly longer than a Quark 123x2 and about the same size at the bezel, because of the deeper reflector on the D25 it really out throws a Quark X 123x2
: Secure pocket clip, not just another snap on.
: Stainless steel bezel and a nice lanyard attachment point that also double's as a anti roll devise.
: Good holster and lanyard, if you've bought a ET light over the past year and half you know what quality the lanyard is which I think is one of the better out there.
: Multiple output mode's at the click of a rear switch, yes it's a reverse clicky so this comes with the territory but with the head loose the high mode is about as bright as the turbo mode when you tighten the head so there is rarely a need to tighten the head. You can basically have all the outputs without changing your grip on the light.

CON's (just a couple) 

: Again no true moonlight mode, ET can call it what that like I will call it a power saver mode.
: When I first got the light I noticed there was a heck of a lot a lube so I removed a good 80% of it, wow I never felt such gritty threads on a light it was like sand was trapped in between my thread.

Some alcohol, q-tips, tooth brush and some Super Lube took care of that so now twisting the head is buttery smooth.

Bottom line I don't think you'll find many light's as small as this in a 18650 format if any and it works really well as a EDC light, it's incredibility bright with quick access to multiple mode's. :thumbsup:

I almost forgot to mention a little more beam detail, my sample has nice white tint slightly cool of course but no blue and certainly no green. The beam profile is fantastic with a nice focused hotspot with bright spill, even though it throws well for a compact XM-L the spill intensity does not suffer.


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## zenbeam (May 8, 2012)

@ jhc37013
Although I returned mine, I do have to say that the good parts about that light, were really very good. And who knows, I may turn my head in that direction again when the XT-E emitters are put back into production with quality issues resolved. 


So, how about others? Anyone else not getting their pre-ordered clickies? Any one got your clicky? The word was "end of April". I am interested in hearing more about a variety of the other clicky D's.


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## af112566 (May 8, 2012)

i have a d25a clicky and like it very much,,no issues at all.its the xm-l version and is very floody.perfect for runs to the kitchen or bathroom at night.on hi its pretty bright and with the 14500 li-ion its very bright,but only has a hi and lo mode.


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## zenbeam (May 8, 2012)

af112566 said:


> i have a d25a clicky and like it very much,,no issues at all.its the xm-l version and is very floody.perfect for runs to the kitchen or bathroom at night.on hi its pretty bright and with the 14500 li-ion its very bright,but only has a hi and lo mode.



That's not good to hear! How am I supposed to stick to a budget around here? lol

I JUST got two 14500's to test out my Xeno E03 and I am super impressed. I didn't realize the D25A clicky can run those! Is there any restriction that you know of? Or are 14500's listed as simply another compatible battery type? 

I do so love me some small, quality flashlights. I've been interested in a D25A for some time now - even before the clickies. But with already owning a D25C, I could not justify getting something so similar yet not quite as bright. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm....


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## orbital (May 11, 2012)

+

Mev at _light-reviews_ has done a review of the D25C Clicky,
...spoiler, he doesn't hate it


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## reppans (May 11, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> That's not good to hear! How am I supposed to stick to a budget around here? lol
> 
> I JUST got two 14500's to test out my Xeno E03 and I am super impressed. I didn't realize the D25A clicky can run those! Is there any restriction that you know of? Or are 14500's listed as simply another compatible battery type?
> 
> I do so love me some small, quality flashlights. I've been interested in a D25A for some time now - even before the clickies. But with already owning a D25C, I could not justify getting something so similar yet not quite as bright. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm....



Unfortunately, the light goes into direct drive on 14500s and you will lose some of the lower modes. Discussed back on post 87.


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## zenbeam (May 11, 2012)

reppans said:


> Unfortunately, the light goes into direct drive on 14500s and you will lose some of the lower modes. Discussed back on post 87.



Yeah, but if I went this route, I'd just want the "wow" factor with the 14500 anyway. Ultimately, the D25A is too similar to my D25C to merit getting one anytime soon. Not to mention I already have 3 other single AA lights as it is... lol. But still...


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## OneBigDay (May 12, 2012)

Anybody know what is going on with orders from PTS for the D25 clicky series?

Delays go down a lot easier with good communication. Obviously some dealers are already shipping these lights.


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## zenbeam (May 12, 2012)

OneBigDay said:


> Anybody know what is going on with orders from PTS for the D25 clicky series?
> 
> Delays go down a lot easier with good communication. Obviously some dealers are already shipping these lights.



I've been wondering why there's hardly any more feedback on the new clicky-D's. I've re-opened my eyes to the D25A clicky and am now actually eyeballing the D25A2 clicky. Not ready to move on one or the other soon... waiting for "dust to settle" on this whole new series release.

Any ideas knowledge out there about delays to share? Any first impressions from others who have received clickies that we haven't heard from so far?


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## cyclesport (May 12, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> @ jhc37013
> Although I returned mine, I do have to say that the good parts about that light, were really very good. And who knows, I may turn my head in that direction again when the XT-E emitters are put back into production with quality issues resolved.
> 
> 
> So, how about others? Anyone else not getting their pre-ordered clickies? Any one got your clicky? The word was "end of April". I am interested in hearing more about a variety of the other clicky D's.



Thought I’d post an update regarding the D25C clicky. When I received mine from Light Junction the end April, along with the D25LC2 (both w/XM-L U2 emitters) I threw an EagleTac 3100mAh 18650 and 16430 Li-ion in each respectively and started familiarizing myself with the operation of each. As jhc37013 pointed out in post #141, the D25LC2 does program, but the low vs. moonlight are so close as to be almost indistinguishable from each other. I finally realized this after much switching back and forth, but I’m unsure why they didn’tmake this light with a true moonlight mode as in the case of the D25C Clicky which does indeed have a moonlight mode probably less than a lumen…its lower than the low in my 4Seven Quark 123Mini, and I thought that was low!

Back to the D25C though, and _I’ve experienced a problem with this light that I haven’t readanywhere else yet._ When I first powered mine on in the low mode (not Moonlight) with any 16430 Li-ion it would very noticeably “flicker” (like a candle flicker)…however in moonlight or any other mode it was fine, and with CR123 primaries all modes worked perfectly, although with overall lower output. This was a truly annoying and unacceptable trait IMO, so I contacted Jeff @ LJ, and after examining his stock to try and find a light to exchange for my flickering D25C it turned out _all of his stock flickered too!_ At this point we both initiated emails to EagleTac corporate to ask why this issue. A very helpful Customer Service rep, Christina replied (from China I believe) the very next day 4/28 and asked me to fully describe the problem and send a video of the flicking, which I did. On 4/29 she once again responded that EagleTac did indeed discover that some (maybe all?) of their lights exhibited this as well, however their engineers had found the problem and would be updating their inventory and send me a new head to correct the flicker.

They sent me the new head on 5/3, and it arrived on 5/10 and it now functions perfectly in every way! Any manufacturer can have a problem with their product but it seems that both EagleTac and Light Junction really jumped on this issue, admitted up front there was a problem, and proceeded to make it right…well done to both the dealer and supplier! I wanted to share this incident in case others on this forum might also have noticed the flicker withthe D25C on low using RCR123/16430 Li-ion’s and either decided to live with it or return the light since there now appears to be a solution. I’m really happy since not only is my light fully functional but the turbo output on Li-ion’s of 700+ lumens is truly astonishing! It is on par (for 1 to 2 minutes anyway) with the Klarus XT11 on high, and that is really amazing!


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## MichaelW (May 13, 2012)

Does anyone know if the CCT of the neutral xm-l is the same as the neutral xp-g?


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## melty (May 14, 2012)

I received the D25LC2 XML clicky over the weekend along with a Jetbeam Intellicharger i4 and an Eagletac 3100mah battery. This is my first "real" flashlight (well... larger than AAA anyway) so I'm not really qualified to do a full review. My thoughts are pretty much the same as zenbeam stated in his review anyhow. I really like the 18650 form factor; it seems to be well-balanced in terms of size, current, capacity, and rechargeability.

One problem I'm having is that the light randomly refuses to turn on. It happens only once or twice a day (once today so far). When this happens the light won't operate at all until I unscrew one of the ends and completely remove contact with the battery. At this point the flashlight operates normally.

I have only one battery at the moment, so I'm unable to rule the battery out as the cause. The positive contact was a little messy (as zenbeam stated) and I just now cleaned it... don't know if or why that possibly would have been the issue. Anyone have any ideas? Seen this behavior before?

I love the light, output is incredible! I do wish it had a lower low mode. Moonlight mode is somewhat of a joke; barely discernable from the regular low, but that's what other lights are for :thumbsup:.


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## Danielight (May 14, 2012)

I already have the *D25LC2* twisty and really like it, but for some time I have been interested in converting it to a clicky model. Had to wait until EagleTac released the battery tube for it, which eventually they did. Now I know that illuminationGear offers it (*OPTIONAL D25LC2 "CLICKY" Switch Body Tube*) for about $24, and I've been thinking seriously about buying it, but would really like to get some input from fellow-CPFers here to see if anyone else has converted the twisty to a clicky using this body tube?


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## melty (May 14, 2012)

Danielight said:


> I already have the *D25LC2* twisty and really like it, but for some time I have been interested in converting it to a clicky model. Had to wait until EagleTac released the battery tube for it, which eventually they did. Now I know that illuminationGear offers it (*OPTIONAL D25LC2 "CLICKY" Switch Body Tube*) for about $24, and I've been thinking seriously about buying it, but would really like to get some input from fellow-CPFers here to see if anyone else has converted the twisty to a clicky using this body tube?



Check out zenbeam's review a few pages back

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ries-clickys&p=3934166&viewfull=1#post3934166


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## Johnnyt (May 14, 2012)

melty said:


> I received the D25LC2 XML clicky over the weekend along with a Jetbeam Intellicharger i4 and an Eagletac 3100mah battery. This is my first "real" flashlight (well... larger than AAA anyway) so I'm not really qualified to do a full review. My thoughts are pretty much the same as zenbeam stated in his review anyhow. I really like the 18650 form factor; it seems to be well-balanced in terms of size, current, capacity, and rechargeability.
> 
> One problem I'm having is that the light randomly refuses to turn on. It happens only once or twice a day (once today so far). When this happens the light won't operate at all until I unscrew one of the ends and completely remove contact with the battery. At this point the flashlight operates normally.
> 
> ...



I ordered the exact combo of lc2 clicky, charger and eagletac 18650 battery from light junction. I love this light. I have the same experience of sometimes it won't turn on but it seems to only occur when I've been turning it off and on frequently in succession messing with the modes etc. one thing I think is that the tailcap has to be very very tight. Seems to not happen as much if I really tighten it. My first light and great brightness and three modes and wonderful runtimes and form factor for this price. Really a sweet spot to me for quality and function for the money. Personally I too would like a fourth mode of a lower low and would be more than willing to forego most of the flashing modes this light has ( maybe 5 of them?).


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## zenbeam (May 15, 2012)

melty said:


> I have only one battery at the moment, so I'm unable to rule the battery out as the cause. The positive contact was a little messy (as zenbeam stated) and I just now cleaned it... don't know if or why that possibly would have been the issue. Anyone have any ideas? Seen this behavior before?



The only other thing I could think to check would be the tightness of the switch cover plate inside the tail cap - where the spring is attached. If that isn't reasonably snug, the contact will be poor. Take some tweezers and see if it can be tightened a partial turn clockwise.





Danielight said:


> ...(*OPTIONAL D25LC2 "CLICKY" Switch Body Tube*) for about $24, and I've been thinking seriously about buying it, but would really like to get some input from fellow-CPFers here to see if anyone else has converted the twisty to a clicky using this body tube?



While yes, I had a small issue with my first clicky-verter tube (I love coining new phrases!) and had to exchange it, once I received the replacement, all was well. I've been EDC'ing my "converted" D25C about a week now with the new tube and just love it! What I especially appreciate is that the new tube's attached clip matches the silver color of the stainless steel bezel, retaining the original style. It totally tail stands too. And if you ever just need to twist, you can still twist to change modes after clicking to turn it on or you can always just switch tubes if you really have the need to do so. Of course you can soft tap the clicky switch to change modes and never have to twist again. While yes, I did this with my D25C, I would have to imagine you would have similarly great results with your D25LC2 twisty. 


@cyclesport - that's great that you got that flickering resolved! Hopefully that was just a rare fluke.


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## cyclesport (May 16, 2012)

_@cyclesport - that's great that you got that flickering resolved! Hopefully that was just a rare fluke. _ 

Yeah, thanks. But considering it was present on all of Light Junction's D25C's...I gotta think this was a wide spread problem on all of, at least the first production run lights? Maybe ordering this light a few weeks/months from now will insure EagleTac has fully addressed this issue.


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## jhc37013 (May 16, 2012)

Johnnyt said:


> I ordered the exact combo of lc2 clicky, charger and eagletac 18650 battery from light junction. I love this light. I have the same experience of sometimes it won't turn on but it seems to only occur when I've been turning it off and on frequently in succession messing with the modes etc. one thing I think is that the tailcap has to be very very tight. Seems to not happen as much if I really tighten it. My first light and great brightness and three modes and wonderful runtimes and form factor for this price. Really a sweet spot to me for quality and function for the money. Personally I too would like a fourth mode of a lower low and would be more than willing to forego most of the flashing modes this light has ( maybe 5 of them?).



I have not had this problem with the D25LC2 but have the same issue with a T20C2 MKII, sometimes it just won't turn on when I hit the switch but if click the switch right after that it will turn on. I've always thought it was just a faulty switch.


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## ClassicGOD (May 16, 2012)

Just remember that going two times through the normal modes it goes into flashy modes and in slow blinking mode it has 15sec pause between flashes. It can look like light did not turn on if you quickly press the switch.


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## Danielight (May 17, 2012)

zenbeam said:


> The only other thing I could think to check would be the tightness of the switch cover plate inside the tail cap - where the spring is attached. If that isn't reasonably snug, the contact will be poor. Take some tweezers and see if it can be tightened a partial turn clockwise.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the feedback, zenbeam. I ordered my "clicky-verter"  tube from illuminationGear this week. Should arrive this weekend. I'm anxious to give it a try.


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## melty (May 17, 2012)

Johnnyt said:


> I have the same experience of sometimes it won't turn on but it seems to only occur when I've been turning it off and on frequently in succession messing with the modes etc. one thing I think is that the tailcap has to be very very tight. Seems to not happen as much if I really tighten it.





zenbeam said:


> The only other thing I could think to check would be the tightness of the switch cover plate inside the tail cap - where the spring is attached. If that isn't reasonably snug, the contact will be poor. Take some tweezers and see if it can be tightened a partial turn clockwise.



Thanks for the replies. I haven't been able to reproduce the problem for the past couple of days, so perhaps the messy contacts or tightening things down had something to do with it. I didn't try opening the tail cap... hopefully that won't be necessary. I really like the light, the only thing I would want to see added is a true moon mode.


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## royjohnson77 (May 17, 2012)

Any word on the Eagletac D25 series clicky in Titanium?

Have any ETA on them?


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## bon1 (May 17, 2012)

Do this new EagleTac D25 clickys have a good fit between the head and the main body? I'm asking this because my D25A has some freeplay between the two threaded parts--the O-ring makes it feel more solid though.


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## Danielight (May 17, 2012)

I received my "clicky-verter tube" (to quote zenbeam's new word) in the mail from illuminationGear. They mailed it USPS 1st Class on Tue from FL, and it arrived today, Thu, in OH. Only two days to arrive: impressive! I removed the twisty tube, replaced it with the new clicky tube (after inserting the 18650 and applying a thin coat of Super Lube to the threads). Clicked it on, and it's working like it should. What's interesting is that if you turn the light on with the tail switch, you can still run thru the different modes using the old twisty motions. Of course, now that I have a clicky tail switch, why would I want to do that?  

A few observations: 

- Cosmetically, the clicky tube looks nice: white lettering spelling D25LC2 on one side, and EAGTAC (with the logo) on the other.
- The light can still tailstand, but it's a little wobbly due to slight protrusion of the rubber tail switch. 
- The pocket clip isn't quite as attractive as the original one screwed to the top of the twisty tube. However, it is firmly attached as a complete ring held in place in a joint about an inch below the top. 
- Being able to run the light with just the clicky switch makes one-handed usage a lot easier. 

All-in-all, I think this new clicky tube is a keeper. :thumbsup:


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## zenbeam (May 17, 2012)

@Danielight - 
Nice to hear that overall you like the clicky-verter tube! I very much like mine.
The main thing is that it truly does make the light that you already loved... "even more"! 

Yes, I'm not only corny... but melodramatic too. :thumbsup:


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## zenbeam (May 17, 2012)

bon1 said:


> Do this new EagleTac D25 clickys have a good fit between the head and the main body? I'm asking this because my D25A has some freeplay between the two threaded parts--the O-ring makes it feel more solid though.



For the brief time I had my hands on the D25LC2 clicky, there was no such play at the head/body connection. It was solid.


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## jmpaul320 (May 18, 2012)

i just got my d25c and have the flicker problem as well, contacted both light junction and eagle tac


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## shelm (May 18, 2012)

tjswarbrick said:


> I just saw a "Coming Soon" at one of the popular dealers on
> 
> *EagleTac D25A CLICKY Ti Mini* TITANIUM
> (Select COOL or NEUTRAL in Cart)
> ...



"mini" is associated with TWISTY (because their twisty is really mini)
"clicky" is associated with D25 series with CLICKIES (and they arent mini anymore)
look on the retail boxes of the clickies. doesnt say "mini" anywhere

sorry for being smart aleck. it's just em


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## cyclesport (May 18, 2012)

jmpaul320 said:


> i just got my d25c and have the flicker problem as well, contacted both light junction and eagle tac



That sucks dude...know how you feel but they will take care of you. Jeff Francour @ LJ is aware of this problem. Its good you contacted EagleTac too and I'm guessing they will expidite a new head to you from China. They did this for me and I had it with 10 days or so.


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## jmpaul320 (May 19, 2012)

cyclesport said:


> That sucks dude...know how you feel but they will take care of you. Jeff Francour @ LJ is aware of this problem. Its good you contacted EagleTac too and I'm guessing they will expidite a new head to you from China. They did this for me and I had it with 10 days or so.



i sent out the head today to china, im not in a rush for this light, it will get here when it gets here 

ET cust service was very prompt and courteous... i wonder if they are just going to send me a new head or wait till they receive mine...


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## cyclesport (May 19, 2012)

jmpaul320 said:


> i sent out the head today to china, im not in a rush for this light, it will get here when it gets here
> 
> ET cust service was very prompt and courteous... i wonder if they are just going to send me a new head or wait till they receive mine...



FWIW EagleTac just sent me a new head after seeing the video they asked for documenting the flicker. They didn't ask for the defective head back.


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## jmpaul320 (May 21, 2012)

interesting.... oh well.. i am prepared to wait about a month... thats usually how long stuff takes to get to china and back lol


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## fogacho (May 23, 2012)

Must say that I'm not really happy with my D25LC2 clicky. Although it is a great light, the fact that it does not memorize the last output used is a real drawback for me. The Eagletac website does not make it clear, and the Instruction manual says it has the programmable mode memory, where you can read: "this feature dos not apply for D25A clicky model", which is not the case ...


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## ZombieBrooke (May 23, 2012)

Titanium models are ready for preorder at Illumination Gear. Can't seem to decide on CW or NW.

Edit: So I ordered both CW and NW. These shiny titanium lights are starting to cost me some money, LOL!


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## Labrador72 (May 24, 2012)

ZombieBrooke said:


> Titanium models are ready for preorder at Illumination Gear. Can't seem to decide on CW or NW.
> 
> Edit: So I ordered both CW and NW. These shiny titanium lights are starting to cost me some money, LOL!



That's the best way to cure any indecision and prevent any potential regrets: undecided between two lights? Get both! Makes life so much easier...


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## jhc37013 (May 24, 2012)

ZombieBrooke said:


> Titanium models are ready for preorder at Illumination Gear. Can't seem to decide on CW or NW.
> 
> Edit: So I ordered both CW and NW. These shiny titanium lights are starting to cost me some money, LOL!



Looks like the Ti models have new circuits, the circuit in the regular D25C clicky is called A950RC and the Ti model has the A950RC II. I wonder what the performance difference is suppose to be.


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## kaabob (May 27, 2012)

cyclesport said:


> Thought I’d post an update regarding the D25C clicky. When I received mine from Light Junction the end April, along with the D25LC2 (both w/XM-L U2 emitters)...


Few questions regarding the two (_as I'm also eyeballing this D25 clicky line too - they're a beaut!_) 

1) Does the D25LC2 have memory of last used mode? _fogacho posted earlier that his did not, even tho EagleTac says only the D25A lacks this feature._
2) How do you like color ouput of Cool White U2? Fairly accurate color rendition? _I've been hearing good things, but the more feedback, the better _
3) Which 16430 Li-ion did you experience flicker with the D25C? _I'd like to double check my emitter if I indeed purchase a D25C_
4) D25C vs D25LC2 - which one feels better in your hands (more natural, or firm grip). _Clearly the two are entirely different configuration, but this is important to me._


Any feedback would be great! 
Thanks in advance :twothumbs


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## ClassicGOD (May 27, 2012)

ad 1) EagleTac does not mention mode memory in D25LC2 Clicky specs. It does not have one.
ad 2) My D25LC2 Clicky U2 Cool White has a very nice color to it, no unwanted tints and a little bit more towards neutral than cool-cool white.

ad 3) I prefer D25C - it smaller, lighter and better fits my hand. D25LC2 Clicky has little bit too many 'bells and whistles' on the body for my taste and I prefer the lanyard attachment method of D25C. On the other hand D25LC2 is very compact for a 18650 light and it is hard to beat its runtimes.


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## kaabob (May 27, 2012)

Awesome, thanks for the quick reply, ClassicGOD!
Now I'm leaning toward the D25C . mmm


That's funny... I thought I read about the memory mode somewhere also. Eh. Weird. You're right - I don't see it on the EagleTac official website. (What a beauty it is also - very Apple like but some links are still missing =P)
EDIT: ah ... now i see it on the D25C page... mode memory ..._indeed missing from the D25LC2 page_


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## cyclesport (May 27, 2012)

kaabob said:


> Few questions regarding the two (_as I'm also eyeballing this D25 clicky line too - they're a beaut!_)
> 
> 1) Does the D25LC2 have memory of last used mode? _fogacho posted earlier that his did not, even tho EagleTac says only the D25A lacks this feature. _
> 2) How do you like color ouput of Cool White U2? Fairly accurate color rendition? _I've been hearing good things, but the more feedback, the better _
> ...




(1) Mode memory only pertains to the D25C' s ability to remember moonlight or low depending which you last selected before shutdown. It always starts in moonlight or low and toggles up from there to medium...high...etc. As for the D25LC2 I don't know because the difference between low and moonlight is so small I can't determine one from the other...they both seem like low with no real moonlight mode as with the D25C.
(2) I like the XM-L U2 a lot because it does seem more neutral than most lights using this emitter and the beam pattern is one of the better ones I've seen in a while.
(3) I think I'm the one who originally posted the flicker problem using 3.7v 16340 Li-ion's in low on the D25C, and on my copy this occured with 4 diff brands of Li-ions I tried.
(4) I own the D25LC2 and D25C clickys and feel being subjective, I like the larger light simply because there is more to grab, but like the D25C for easier concealment with jeans or shorts.


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## jmpaul320 (May 28, 2012)

Labrador72 said:


> That's the best way to cure any indecision and prevent any potential regrets: undecided between two lights? Get both! Makes life so much easier...



first rule in flashaholic spending... why have one when you can have two at twice the price?


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## selfbuilt (May 29, 2012)

And my massive round-up review is now up: :sweat:

Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G) 

Enjoy!


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## jhc37013 (Jun 1, 2012)

Does anyone else who has the D25C2 or D25LC2 have an issue with always bending out the pocket clip when you EDC it. I don't know if it the design of the clip or because it is a little flimsy but I'd say 1 out of 10 EDC's I have to bend the pocket clip back to proper position.

I'm not sure what it gets hung up on I just find it like that at the end of the day but it's obviously getting hung on something and I'm afraid 'm going to lose it. I've never had a problem like this with any other light but looking at the clip it does raise up fairly high at the end of the clip where your finger goes to pull it out.


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## biglights (Jun 1, 2012)

jhc37013 said:


> Does anyone else who has the D25C2 or D25LC2 have an issue with always bending out the pocket clip when you EDC it. I don't know if it the design of the clip or because it is a little flimsy but I'd say 1 out of 10 EDC's I have to bend the pocket clip back to proper position.
> 
> I'm not sure what it gets hung up on I just find it like that at the end of the day but it's obviously getting hung on something and I'm afraid 'm going to lose it. I've never had a problem like this with any other light but looking at the clip it does raise up fairly high at the end of the clip where your finger goes to pull it out.



Yeah I have had this issue also!!


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## jhc37013 (Jun 2, 2012)

I'm going to have to find another solution maybe a 4sevens clip will fit it, I've never had one problem with those.


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## biglights (Jun 2, 2012)

jhc37013 said:


> I'm going to have to find another solution maybe a 4sevens clip will fit it, I've never had one problem with those.



Let me know if you find anything that works. Thanks..


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## jhc37013 (Jun 2, 2012)

biglights said:


> Let me know if you find anything that works. Thanks..



The 4sevens clips fit also that is good news for those who like deep carry clips because 47s sells one.


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## shelm (Jun 2, 2012)

screenshot from their webpage:






Has anyone tried 14500's in the D25*A* *Clicky *with the *XM-L U2*? (the D25A Mini has the XP-G S2 only, sorry for early adopters of the D25 line!). Must be crazy bright!!! Has someone compared against the Xeno E03 XML T6 with 14500 which produces 430 lumens?

Btw, apart from *selfbuilt*'s mammoth efforts there are also recent noteworthy reviews by *gearhounds* and *mev*!


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## melty (Jun 2, 2012)

jhc37013 said:


> The 4sevens clips fit also that is good news for those who like deep carry clips because 47s sells one.



Can you post a photo of the fit? Does it attach in place of the lanyard ring?


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## jhc37013 (Jun 3, 2012)

melty said:


> Can you post a photo of the fit? Does it attach in place of the lanyard ring?



I don't have a camera handy but the 47's clips fit's in place of the stock clip in the same spot, if your familiar with how Quarks pocket clip go on and off these model Eagletacs work the same way.

The lanyard attachment rotates so if you used a deep carry clip you could rotate the lanyard into a position where they would both work.


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## BLUE LED (Jun 3, 2012)

Does anyone know where I can buy the D25C clicky XP-G S2 ?


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## Danielight (Jun 3, 2012)

BLUE LED said:


> Does anyone know where I can buy the D25C clicky XP-G S2 ?


You can find them at *illuminationGear*. They seem to have all of the D25 models, both twisty and clicky.


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## BLUE LED (Jun 4, 2012)

Danielight said:


> You can find them at *illuminationGear*. They seem to have all of the D25 models, both twisty and clicky.



I couldn't find the D25C clicky XP-G S2 listed on illumination Gear


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## GordoJones88 (Jun 4, 2012)

BLUE LED said:


> I couldn't find the D25C clicky XP-G S2 listed on illumination Gear




EagleTac Dealer websites

EagleTac USA and Pacific Tactical Solutions appear to be the same stores, 
and both have all models of everything in stock including Neutral/Cool White.


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## BLUE LED (Jun 4, 2012)

GordoJones88 said:


> EagleTac Dealer websites
> 
> EagleTac USA and Pacific Tactical Solutions appear to be the same stores,
> and both have all models of everything in stock including Neutral/Cool White.



Thanks


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## Blackbeard (Jun 7, 2012)

I got the d25c2 last week, put in new batteries and was not able to get the primary mode to engage no matter how many times I loosened the head all I could get was high and strobe. After awhile, intermittently i could get low outputs to engage but only for a few minutes. took it apart cleaned the head, threads and relubed. Than it went crazy switching on its own for a few minutes. 

So I called the supplier who was very hard to talk with(maybe some of you know who I'm refering to but i'll keep it to myself for now) who mentioned tightening tailcap which was already as tight as you could get it without that special tool channelock makes. Anyway got an rma, had to pull teeth to get return shipping covered.

So I let the light sit with no batteries for a day, went back to it to try again and now it works perfectly, and I cant reproduce that failure, and its working great. Not sure if they would still exchange a working light, but it worries me down the road that it may fail again...any suggestions?


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## jhc37013 (Jun 7, 2012)

Blackbeard I'm pretty sure he wasn't talking about tightening up the tailcap itself but rather the metal retaining ring inside the tailcap, look inside the tailcap and see two dimples on the metal switch retaining ring, get some small needlenose pliers or tweezers and tighten it up.


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## jmpaul320 (Jun 7, 2012)

i got my rma back from hong kong today... total time from my door to hk, fixed head, and back to me less than three weeks... customer service was great!


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## shramj (Jun 7, 2012)

I ordered the EagleTac D25LC2 with the XP-G in Neutral. I really like the sound of the light, it sounds almost perfect except these few things....But we will see how I like it once I get it, I guess I am just excited to get it so I will post a couple of concerns I have.

1. I wish it had a forward clicky on it, I like to have the momentary option. Maybe in the future you will be able to get a different switch/tailcap? 
2. I hope the tailcap isn't as touchy as I think it will be, I hope it isn't too sensitive making it too easy to switch modes like my 4sevens RGB.
3. I also hope the moon mode is low, it doesn't have to be super low but I hope it is low.


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## Blackbeard (Jun 7, 2012)

jhc37013 said:


> Blackbeard I'm pretty sure he wasn't talking about tightening up the tailcap itself but rather the metal retaining ring inside the tailcap, look inside the tailcap and see two dimples on the metal switch retaining ring, get some small needlenose pliers or tweezers and tighten it up.



Yeah I know, that was what I was referring to, it was as tight as it could get, so its still a mystery as to what happened, but thanks for the response. Also not crazy about the snap on the holster seems to open up alot.


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## Up All Night (Jun 7, 2012)

Blackbeard,

On the female side of that snap there's two thin bars that apply friction to the male snap. Just take a small screwdriver and flare one out, gently!
you won't need to move it much, a little means a lot.
I've done this to a few of my "high mileage" snaps with good success.
Good luck!


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## Blackbeard (Jun 8, 2012)

Up All Night said:


> Blackbeard,
> 
> On the female side of that snap there's two thin bars that apply friction to the male snap. Just take a small screwdriver and flare one out, gently!
> you won't need to move it much, a little means a lot.
> ...



Yeah I was trying to do this a few hours ago with a swiss army knife, but was afraid to go too far and have it break, I'll give it another go in the morning, thanks


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## cbr400rr (Jun 8, 2012)

I have the same problem with my holster, it would open from the slightest touch I emailed the vendor I bought it fom and pretty much told SOL. So I emailed eagletac and they going to send me a new one.


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## jhc37013 (Jun 8, 2012)

Blackbeard said:


> Yeah I was trying to do this a few hours ago with a swiss army knife, but was afraid to go too far and have it break, I'll give it another go in the morning, thanks



You know now that I think about it I had the same thing happen with my D25C2L I had forgot all about it because I when I first got it I was to caught up trying to figure out why it had no memory or moonlight mode, of course latter I found out this model really has neither.

Anyway what it would do is only turn on in turbo even if I had the head loose, their was times I could get it to come on in low but when I started to cycle modes it would go to turbo and strobe, and the head was completely loose. This went away after a couple hours of playing around with it and cleaning it, Eagletac sends its with lots of lube I thought was wasteful until I took some off and felt the extremely gritty threads, I took a tooth brush and q-tips to the threads and now their plenty smooth even with just a little lube but I still tend to use more lube than really needed.

So yes it took me a little while to remember I did have the same issue and it did go away that first night I go it and I've used it hard every day and night since then with absolutely none of that problem I had that first night and the same problem you had Blackbeard.

I'm not sure why it happened I've never had nor heard of this problem with multiple samples and with both samples correcting itself.


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## Blackbeard (Jun 8, 2012)

jhc37013 said:


> You know now that I think about it I had the same thing happen with my D25C2L I had forgot all about it because I when I first got it I was to caught up trying to figure out why it had no memory or moonlight mode, of course latter I found out this model really has neither.
> 
> Anyway what it would do is only turn on in turbo even if I had the head loose, their was times I could get it to come on in low but when I started to cycle modes it would go to turbo and strobe, and the head was completely loose. This went away after a couple hours of playing around with it and cleaning it, Eagletac sends its with lots of lube I thought was wasteful until I took some off and felt the extremely gritty threads, I took a tooth brush and q-tips to the threads and now their plenty smooth even with just a little lube but I still tend to use more lube than really needed.
> 
> ...



I dont have the "L" clicky like you, its just the 2x123 version, but I agree on the grease being to heavy on the threads, and suspect this was the issue


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## cyclesport (Jun 8, 2012)

jmpaul320 said:


> i got my rma back from hong kong today... total time from my door to hk, fixed head, and back to me less than three weeks... customer service was great!



+1 re: ET's service! FWIW Tod @ IlluminationGear told me that ET had mis-tuned the circuit during assembly at factory which led to a number(?) of these going out to dealers. Since I also ordered and am awaiting the Ti D25C XM-L U2, I hope it functions as designed?


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## cyclesport (Jun 8, 2012)

shramj said:


> I ordered the EagleTac D25LC2 with the XP-G in Neutral. I really like the sound of the light, it sounds almost perfect except these few things....But we will see how I like it once I get it, I guess I am just excited to get it so I will post a couple of concerns I have.
> 
> 1. I wish it had a forward clicky on it, I like to have the momentary option. Maybe in the future you will be able to get a different switch/tailcap?
> 2. I hope the tailcap isn't as touchy as I think it will be, I hope it isn't too sensitive making it too easy to switch modes like my 4sevens RGB.
> 3. I also hope the moon mode is low, it doesn't have to be super low but I hope it is low.



I have the D25LC2 XM-L U2 version and am guessing the lowest you'll see on the XP-G is 15 to 25 lumens at best since the 2X 123/18650 clicky's just don't (unfortunately) share the same UI as the D25C that can go to -1 lumen in moonlight. Kinda sucks. Although there is hope you might get one of ET's ongoing "product improvement" versions with the tweaked driver that will have a true sub-one lumen moonlight mode...keep your fingers crossed.


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## shramj (Jun 12, 2012)

cyclesport, I just got my D25LC2 and it doesn't have the super dim moonlight but I am happy with the low setting. I just figured out the D25LC2 doesn't have a memory mode so my light always start on low when it is in the loose position. Anyways, happy with the light and like the UI on it. Just wish it had a forward clicky, memory mode, and a moonlight. If it had all that, I think this would be one of the best EDC lights out there. I also really like how you can get it in neutral white and how you can pick different emitters.


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## Blackbeard (Jun 15, 2012)

Just a heads up, I got 2 protected Ultrafire RCR123 for the D25C2, but they are a tad too long so you cant tighten the tailcap all the way with out the light turning on, they are 35mm each, anyone know the length of the AW version?


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## ClassicGOD (Jun 15, 2012)

Blackbeard said:


> Just a heads up, I got 2 protected Ultrafire RCR123 for the D25C2, but they are a tad too long so you cant tighten the tailcap all the way with out the light turning on, they are 35mm each, anyone know the length of the AW version?


My AW ICR 16340 750mAh are 34,3mm

@Down
Yes, thanks


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## shelm (Jun 15, 2012)

ClassicGOD said:


> My AW ICR 16340 7500mAh are 34,3mm


750?


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## EspionageStudio.Com (Jun 15, 2012)

oh noooooooooooo! that is what I have, the Ultrafire battery. Be nice to know which 16340 cells fit when more people start getting these lights in hand.


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## Blackbeard (Jun 15, 2012)

EspionageStudio.Com said:


> oh noooooooooooo! that is what I have, the Ultrafire battery. Be nice to know which 16340 cells fit when more people start getting these lights in hand.



They still work, but I'm not sure I would trust the water tightness(it does clear the o ring but not by much), and you have to now think about how far to unscrew cap so light doesnt turn on accidentally


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## cyclesport (Jun 15, 2012)

EspionageStudio.Com said:


> oh noooooooooooo! that is what I have, the Ultrafire battery. Be nice to know which 16340 cells fit when more people start getting these lights in hand.



EagleTac's own 16340/750mAh battery at 34.5mm, of course, fits.


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## Blackbeard (Jun 15, 2012)

ClassicGOD said:


> My AW ICR 16340 750mAh are 34,3mm
> 
> @Down
> Yes, thanks



Does that include the button top? I think I mearrsured mine wrong the first time, they're more like 36 mm, so the AW might do the trick.


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## Blackbeard (Jun 15, 2012)

cyclesport said:


> EagleTac's own 16340/750mAh battery at 34.5mm, of course, fits.



Do you know who sells those?

Nevermind, I see them on flashlightsngear


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## ClassicGOD (Jun 15, 2012)

Blackbeard said:


> Does that include the button top?


Yes


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## shelm (Jul 12, 2012)

( deleted )


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## salimoneus (Jul 12, 2012)

I picked up a D25A Clicky and it's been great, nice and clean inside and out, smooth threads, no protrusion of the rubber button boot (tail stands fine), a very nice little pocket light. I also prefer the brushed stainless look on the bezel, but it's such a minor gripe.


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