# Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!



## Phaserburn (Nov 21, 2005)

For various reasons, which I won’t belabor (well, not now, anyway…), I have always liked the SL-20X. It’s stock lamp, however, well… sucks! Its output has always made me think “anemic”, a real letdown. What would’ve been great is WA1160 brightness, but with a MOP type of beam. Enter our hero… js.



I sent my light to Jim, and he performed “Un-Suck” surgery on it: an 1160 ring-potted lamp installed in a Carley orange peel reflector. Aaaah, finally! After long lamenting, my SL-60 was born! Once the lamp was fixed into the reflector and tooled a bit by Jim, it dropped in nicely to the stock SL-20X.



Seriously, folks… this light has gone from “pretty good” to “awesome”. Now, realize that I was running a 35X lamp in my 20X already, which wasn’t bad at all. Not stupendous, but a major improvement over the 20X LA when being driven by my 4Ah nimh battery stick. The 35X gets left in the dust by the 1160/Carley combo. MC60 output but with a wider, virtually artifact free beam. I can’t say enough about the improvement to the SL-20X. And, it still gets over an hour runtime. Far more output and throw than the 35X and with a whiter beam to boot.



Now the very best part: js is selling the ring potted 1160/Carley reflector combos for your SL-20X! Even with the stock battery, this drop-in is jaw-dropping! This is THE mod you’ve been looking for if you own an SL-20X and want to just drop in some major improvement. Jim liked the results in my SL that he went out and bought one for himself right away.



Note: I have the dimmer/flasher tailcap from Streamlight on my SL-60. This has been a total CPF sleeper. This tailcap is great; it offers electronic continuous dimming/brightening, flashing, and the ability to turn the light on at it’s lowest setting without having to dim it. No one else makes anything like this. The SL-60 is so bright that even on it’s dimmest setting, you’ll have plenty of light to navigate, perform close up tasks, etc. Also makes a great candle mode as it’s flat and stable.



Jim may be able to provide pics for this mod, and more info for availability. This mod gets two thumbs waaaay up and the Phaserburn seal of approval.

:rock:


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## Schuey2002 (Nov 21, 2005)

*Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!*

>>"I sent my light to Jim, and he performed “Un-Suck” surgery on it:"<<

Hahahaha! :laughing:


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Nov 21, 2005)

Just when I thought it was safe to go back to saving...

Any idea how it compares with the brightest (750-lumen) version of FiveMega's 3x168 Stinger HP Mod?


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Nov 21, 2005)

The digital tailcap is Streamlight Part Number 20271, Digital Flasher/Dimmer Tailcap. Under $30!


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## KevinL (Nov 22, 2005)

NO NO NO!!!! 

All of you leadeth me into temptation and my Paypal accounts are violently objecting!

Now wait, what were you saying about the digital dimmer? That is really interesting... variable power control has always been a Good Thing(tm).

How does the SL20 body compare to the Magcharger body? Does it have charge-in-place capability like the Magcharger has? It seems, that for me, it's just going to come down to which body I like, because if I get either of them, I'll be modding them anyway.


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## Unicorn (Nov 22, 2005)

*Re: Make Your SL-20X Un-Suck – KILLER Mod!*

It does charge in place, but it's not as easy as the Mag for that. You can't just slap it in any 'ole way. You have to put it in a certain way. Not a big disadvantage.
The MC does seem to have an advantage if you want/need a spot beam for further throw, or an adjustable beam. If not then either fits the bill. I think you can get stipled or orange peel reflectors for the MC as well. I personally would prefer the Mag because either way, stock reflector or aftermarket modded one, you just have to get the bulbs, and bare bulbs are going to be cheaper than ones that you have to have potted. Just my opinion.


Quick question about those dimmers. Do they reduce the life or brightness of the bulb? I don't mean do they do their job of dimming, I mean the dimming of a bulb due to undervolting it so it builds up that black inside the glass. The lack of a complete halogenisation cycle or something like that.


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## js (Nov 22, 2005)

First off, I should mention that bwaites was the first person to do this mod. He got me to pot up some 1160's into fixture-rings for him, then modded a couple Carley 1940 reflectors to fit the SL-20X head. He also bought some of the 4AH 5 1/2 D sticks. This all went into upgrading some LEO friends SL-20X lights, and they were very pleased with the results.

So I knew this was something I could do, and when Phaserburn PMed me many months ago about upgrading his SL-20X, I told him I could do the same thing. Well, after all those months went by, I decided to go ahead and see if he still wanted me to do this mod. I knew it wouldn't require much time on my part, and I needed to do at least a little something different than M6-R work and USL packs, if only for a few hours. Plus, I already had to ring-pot some lamps for a TL mod owner, so I just filled in the rest of the jig spots with 1160's. The mod for the 1940 just involves turning down the outside radius of the rear nub, and rounding off the transition to the side. Note that I do NOT reduce the length of the nub, nor touch the rim, nor widen the bore. The bore must remain untouched in order to accept a ring-potted lamp.

The end result is just a drop-in LA for your SL-20X using an 1160. The geometry of the 1940 isn't as tight as the MC reflector, and the 1940 has more divergence, so it won't throw as far, but the beam has fewer artifacts and is smoother and broader, while still throwing quite far. Phaserburn has a MOP 1940.

The one issue was that the 1940 is too loose in the SL-20X head for my taste. It can be used as is, but would be more prone to breakage due to shock and vibration. So I tried a number of different methods to find a good way to secure it in the head and protect it against vibration and shock. Strangely, the best performing solution was to take an overly large o-ring and push it down inside the head. Imagine looking down on the SL-20X head from above, and superimpose compass points on it. I pushed down the o-ring at the N and S, making it catarpillar up at the W and E. (I used a 2 1/4" o.d. 1/8" thick buna-n o-ring, BTW). These catarpillar loops hold the reflector in place and push it up against the lens and prevent it from contacting the head. And the buna-n will take the heat just fine.

The SL-20X has wires with molex type connectors on the end which just grab the .028" pins of a WA or stock SL lamp. Thus, just like the TL, there is no plastic pedestal or socket to melt, and the lamp doesn't wander in position with every bump of the head. *You can run your SL60 non-stop for a full burn (or more) and not melt anything or have any heat issues whatsoever*. This, in my opinion, is its major advantage over the MC60.

The other MAJOR advantage of the SL60 is that flasher/dimmer cap! I have to say that when I first pulled Phaserburn's SL-20X out of the box and saw that dimmer cap I was like "Eh. I probably won't use that at all. Oh, well. It can't hurt, I suppose." But boy did I have a change of opinion. This dimmer cap is one of the most useful accesories I have ever experienced. People talk about "**** yellow" incans all the time, but I have to say that I found the dimmed down light to be "golden yellow" and "sunset orange". It was simply very, very useful to be able to dim the light down to only a small orange glow. I could see the rocks at my feet and still not ruin my night vision, and I could operate in stealth mode and not call attention to myself. People are quite aware of a spot-light level powered light being beamed around, but hardly notice a mag-a-like dim beam. This can be very useful at times. And having a dim beam that you KNOW can turn almost instantly into 450 lumens of bright white light is much different than having a dim, artifact filled beam that you know will not ever get any better. It just is.

So anyway, all you need to do to get your own SL60 is just buy some ring-potted 1160's from me, and a modded 1940 in MOP or Smooth. I will provide the o-ring needed to secure the 1940 in the head, and the allen wrench needed to focus and secure the ring-potted lamp in the 1940. (Although the first 1160 will already be installed and focused in the 1940 for you). The rest is just pushing in an o-ring, connecting the lamp lead wires, and turning down the bezel.

Oh, and you will of course need to get one of the shock isolated 55 mm UCL's or other appropriate glass lens for your 20X or 35X in order to avoid melting the stock lexan lens.

Also, a better NiMH stick is recommended over the stock pack, but is not necessary. I will be back later tonight with pictures of the 1160 LA and o-ring installation and to provide more info and discussion.

But for now, that's an intro to the SL-20X.

Oh, one advantage of the 20X over the MC that I just remembered, and which I was first clued into by Phaserburn is that it is MUCH easier to operate the switch with winter gloves on.

Oh, and the dimmer/flasher cap can be used to either dim the light down after you've turned on normally, or--and this is SO cool--to TURN ON in dim mode. If you push the tailcap membrane switch and hold and then turn on the light, it comes on in dim mode. If you want to go as fast as possible to full brightness, just turn off and turn right back on again --a "double click" as it were-- and this can be done rather quickly once you get used to it. Also, a double click on the membrane switch puts you into a flashing mode, which will get attention in a hurry, I'm sure.

Turning on in dim mode would also be great for those considering an SL85! A 9 1/2D stick in an SL-35X with a ring potted 1185 and modded 1940 would make the SL85 (!). And the dimmer tail cap would allow you to avoid the instaflash issues associated with running the 1185 on 9 1/2D's.

I have a report on the charging circuit situation, too, but I'll save that for later.


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## js (Nov 22, 2005)

Unicorn said:


> It does charge in place, but it's not as easy as the Mag for that. You can't just slap it in any 'ole way. You have to put it in a certain way. Not a big disadvantage.
> The MC does seem to have an advantage if you want/need a spot beam for further throw, or an adjustable beam. If not then either fits the bill. I think you can get stipled or orange peel reflectors for the MC as well. I personally would prefer the Mag because either way, stock reflector or aftermarket modded one, you just have to get the bulbs, and bare bulbs are going to be cheaper than ones that you have to have potted. Just my opinion.
> 
> 
> Quick question about those dimmers. Do they reduce the life or brightness of the bulb? I don't mean do they do their job of dimming, I mean the dimming of a bulb due to undervolting it so it builds up that black inside the glass. The lack of a complete halogenisation cycle or something like that.



Running the 1160 in dim mode will not cause darkening of the glass envelope. The lower the temperature the less the halogen cycle works to pull tungsten atoms from the glass, BUT the lower the temperature, the less the filament vaporizes and spews out tungsten atoms in the first place. In most modern "halgoen" lamps, these two factors have been balanced against each other. I have run a good amount of dim time on my 1160 and so far, I can see absolutely no darkening. So no. No problem.

Also, I'm betting the AWR is going to show up here and say how inefficient an underdriven incan is. Well, yes, that is true, but you still gain in runtime in a significant way. You can extend your runtime to 3+ hours in dim mode, at least, although I suspect it will be even more. This is something I will leave others to test.


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## TonyBPD (Nov 22, 2005)

My SL-20X is collecting dust in my closet right now. I would definitely be interested in this mod. Where do I sign up?


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## Phaserburn (Nov 22, 2005)

Also, remember that dimming an incan cannon is for either a) an emergency where you suddenly need longer runtime and have no other options b) brief periods where full output is blinding, like up close work or c) using the light in candle mode indoors. All three circumstances are extremely useful to have as an option and really makes your SL much more than just a single dimension light. The rapid flasher feature, by the way, is extremely attention getting, blowing away any strobing led lights.


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## js (Nov 22, 2005)

TonyBPD said:


> My SL-20X is collecting dust in my closet right now. I would definitely be interested in this mod. Where do I sign up?



Signup in the 1185, 1111, 1160 & 1274 ring-potted lamps for TL & SL upgrades B/S/T thread.

But please keep in mind that my M6-R and USL work will take priority over filling these orders. I will be able to fill the first handful of orders right away, but after that I can't give a time frame. There could be a delay of up to 2 or 3 weeks, depending. Especially if this mod becomes really popular, because then I will need to order more 1160's, and that will delay things. I think I have more than enough reflectors on hand, though.


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## js (Nov 22, 2005)

Paul_in_Maryland said:


> Just when I thought it was safe to go back to saving...
> 
> Any idea how it compares with the brightest (750-lumen) version of FiveMega's 3x168 Stinger HP Mod?



I wish you hadn't asked me this.

I am very tired of being the CPF fair and equal lumens assessment gadfly and I will no longer play that role. If people want to go around thinking that their 1185 mag mods are 1200 or 1300 lumens, or that 3 rechargable 123 li-ion batteries will power an 1185 to 10.8 volts, they can do so, unhampered by my attempts to bring things back to reality.

Here's what I will say: you need to find out the following information, in my opinion, in order to make a best guess at how many lumens any given mod is putting out the front of the torch:

1. Mid-point voltage under load of the batteries. What are they actually delivering to the load, --and I'm not talking about voltage loss through switches even. Just what you would measure across the battery pack or battery holder halfway through the run, while driving the given lamp.

2. Rated lumens and voltage of the lamp. Re-rate according to Lr = (Va/Vd)^3.5 * Ld. Where Va is the MPV from (1) and Vd is the design voltage and Ld is the design lumens and Lr is the re-rated lumens.

3. Take the re-rated lumens and multiply by 0.65 to arrive at torch lumens.

That is how I would figure out a lumens total that would start to approach reality. I am, apparently, one of the few people to do things this way. And I don't know why everyone just ignores me. Because, I'm sorry NT, but no, your Mag35 with "Super" reflector is not 1200 lumens. Not if the SF M6 is 500 lumens. I'm refering to this post.

It's fine if people choose to use bulb lumens, but they can't also then compare them directly to SureFire lumens. Please! Let's be fair and real, here!

So in that spirit, I would rate the 1160 on 6 good NiMH or NiCd cells at 450 lumens. It is not as bright as the M6 HOLA, but is just noticeable brighter than the M6 LOLA. So, yes, SureFire under-rates their lights, even going by torch-lumens.

Or if you don't trust my estimates, let me just put it this way: the SL60 is about a 24 watt light, and its driven reasonably hard, but not as hard as the SF M6 or A2 or Tiger11.


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## TonyBPD (Nov 22, 2005)

Paypal sent! Thanks js


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## bwaites (Nov 22, 2005)

Come on Jim, you are uniquely qualified to BE the CPF "fair and equal lumens gadfly"!!

You work or have worked on all the series of lights that are most commonly modded, you have, uniquely, created mods no one else has considered or that no one else has felt possible, and you are familiar with all the the lamps!!

My vote is that you, and you only, remain the "CPF fair and equal lumens gadfly".

In fact I confer upon you the title "*CPF Fair and Equal Lumens Monitor*". 

If you desire though, I will be happy to change your title to "*CPF Fair and Equal Lumens Fairy*" or "*CPF Fair and Equal Lumens Guru*" or "*CPF Fair and Equal Lumens Angel*" or even "*CPF Fair and Equal Lumens Gadfly Extraordinaire*"!

However, someone with your standing MUST continue to carry the torch of equal and fair measurement and statements, and I vote for you!!!

Bill


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## js (Nov 22, 2005)

Bill,

Well. Alright. But only if my title is "CPF Fair and Equal Lumens Ogre."

On another note, I realized that I forgot to mention how the SL-20X/35X dimmer cap actually works!

If you turn on the light just like normal, it comes on at full brightness, just like normal. If you then push the button on the end of the dimmer cap, (which is a membrane type button, but which also has a definite positive "click" feel when you activate it) then the light begins to dim, continuously and moderately, until after about 5 or so seconds, it has reached its dimmest point. This is pretty dim, but I wouldn't be able to say about how many lumens it is or anything. I think Phaserburn has a better idea about this than me. Now if you keep holding on to the button, it starts to brighten until after 5 seconds it is at full brightness again. If you were feeling psychedelic you could just keep holding it and trance out to the dimming and brightening cycle. hehe.

If at any point you let go, the light stays at whatever brightness you had reached. If you push again, it will pick up where it left off, going in the same direction as it had been going.

If you hold the tailcap button while you turn on, it starts at the dimmest setting and will begin to get brighter.

If at any point you want full brightness for sure without having to think about it, just turn off the light, then turn on.

If at any point you want to really freak yourself and others out with a light show, just click twice on the tailcap switch. Turning off or double-clicking again will return the light to normal running at full brightness.

StreamLight, or whoever they contracted to do this dimmer cap, really got this one right. It is a PWM, uC controlled, rather sophistacted piece of work, and has got to be about 99 percent invisible in normal running. At first I was confused as to how it must get its power to operate because it is only connected to batt - and has no direct connection to batt +. Or so I thought. Then I realized that when you first turn the light on, it has a connection to batt+ through the filament (!). This must, I suspect, charge a capacitor which is used to power the uC and raise and lower the FET gate. When the voltage of the capacitor falls enough, the FET must stay closed again just long enough to charge the capacitor. And so on. Although it is probably happening very many times a second, but only for a fractional percentage of total on time.

Anyway, however it works, it works well and I was pretty impressed with it. So much so that, just as Phaserburn says, I ordered my own SL-20X and dimmer cap after I sent his back. I just missed it too much. It's a great walking light. I also strong armed bwaites into giving me one of the much coveted and now rare 4AH Aero sticks for it. :devil:


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## dano (Nov 22, 2005)

Some time ago, received a potted WA bulb and a smooth reflector and a peeled reflector from someone on CPF. This was supposed to be used in a Tigerlight.

Anyways, I just put it in my aging SL-20x (and I have a dimmer tailcap) and it works fine. :rock: 

I'm using a stock battery stick (6v, 2500MAH). I was using a hi-cap. stick, but it was too unreliable and "dumped" too early; one of the cells is bad.

I have some of the powerstream 1/2D cells, but haven't had the chance to use them, lately, or with this combo.

--dan


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## moraino (Nov 23, 2005)

Phaserburn said:


> Note: I have the dimmer/flasher tailcap from Streamlight on my SL-60. This has been a total CPF sleeper. This tailcap is great; it offers electronic continuous dimming/brightening, flashing, and the ability to turn the light on at it’s lowest setting without having to dim it. No one else makes anything like this. The SL-60 is so bright that even on it’s dimmest setting, you’ll have plenty of light to navigate, perform close up tasks, etc. Also makes a great candle mode as it’s flat and stable.
> 
> :rock:


 
I have been waiting for two years of this switch review. Many thanks to you and Jim for the good report.

I am wondering if the thread of the tail cap the same as Mag D. I am pushing my luck I think. But it would be good news for those who has Mag1160 if it fits...

Henry


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## KevinL (Nov 23, 2005)

You sickos are making me want an SL20X.. WITH the upgrades.


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## js (Nov 23, 2005)

The SL-20/35X dimmer/flasher cap will NOT fit any of the mags. Sorry. But someone like DSpeck or McGizmo or tvodrd or FM could make a thread adaptor ring probably.

dano,

Yes. That was me. It is a 1274, which is a 7.2 volt lamp. It will be rather underpowered at 6.0 volts, I'm afraid. You will be MUCH happier with an 1160, and since you already have the reflector, that's all you need: one ring-potted WA1160 from me. I will also provide the fit o-ring. Do you still have the 5/64th allen wrench? That will be needed to install and focus, and/or remove a ring potted lamp into or from the reflectors.

Drop me a PM or something (or post here).


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## Phaserburn (Nov 23, 2005)

The tailcap is slick, elegant and works like a champ, no question about it. Especially when you consider what many of us do burrowing tailcaps with resistors to get a simple two stage light. 



moraino said:


> I have been waiting for two years of this switch review. Many thanks to you and Jim for the good report.


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## Phaserburn (Nov 23, 2005)

KevinL said:


> You sickos are making me want an SL20X.. WITH the upgrades.


 
:devil:


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## Phaserburn (Nov 23, 2005)

I wanted to say officially that this work done by Jim is first-rate. Jim considers, ponders and then solves problems that not only didn't I see, but didn't even know existed. Major kudos to an engineering job well done, and done creatively!

:rock: 

On minimum setting, I estimate the SL-60 puts out maybe 20-30 lumens or so. This is completely subjective on my part, but will give you a good ballpark. At least you know you're not getting L4 output on min (too much) and you're not getting Arc AAA output (too little) either. You can definitely use it for upclose work without blinding or glare problems. Is it lower color temp? Yes, but in a "major throttling back of a powerful monster" kind of way, instead of an "weak, decrepit orange my light sucks" kind of way.

The FELO = Fair & Equal Lumens Ogre


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## NotRegulated (Nov 23, 2005)

Will this bulb and reflector work in an old SL-20 or just the SL-20X?
I think the bezels and lamp assemblies are the same.

I'm looking to breathe new life into an old light and this is just the ticket.


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## js (Nov 23, 2005)

NotRegulated said:


> Will this bulb and reflector work in an old SL-20 or just the SL-20X?
> I think the bezels and lamp assemblies are the same.
> 
> I'm looking to breathe new life into an old light and this is just the ticket.



NotRegulated,

I don't know, but I suspect that if the lamps and bezels are the same that, yes, it would have to work. But I can always put it back on the lathe again and trim it a little if it doesn't (free of charge). Or you can send me your whole light to begin with just to be sure. I've never seen (or even heard of until now) an SL-20. Interesting. What actually IS the difference, anyway?


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## js (Nov 23, 2005)

OK. One day late, but here are the pictures! First I have a pic of the modded 1940 with WA1160 ring-potted lamp installed next to a head-on view of the SL-20X head with fit o-ring installed. Notice that it is pushed down at the top and bottom and catarpillars out towards the camera at the left and right, sort of like the peremiter of a lays potato chip. The 1940 is modded more or less the same as for the TL head except that I don't have to touch the rim, and I remove more thickness from the outside of the nub/bore. Note that the inside is NOT touched, nor is any LENGTH removed from the reflector. This is necessary in order to allow use of my ring-potted lamps.







Next is a picture of the old and new tail caps. The new, dimmer/flasher cap is on the right in front of the package in which it came.






And here is a not so good picture of the inside of the dimmer cap (with spring removed). It was hard to light it without getting either glare or shadows. I chose some glare. It was lit by my USL, by the way. hehe. :devil:






As for the (so-called) charging system of the SL-20X and 35X, I really don't feel like going over how lousy it is right now. So I won't.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Oh, and Phaserburn, thanks so much for the kudos! I don't deserve such high praise. Really. Just doing my part to spread the lumens. But thanks!


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## NotRegulated (Nov 23, 2005)

js said:


> NotRegulated,
> 
> I don't know, but I suspect that if the lamps and bezels are the same that, yes, it would have to work. But I can always put it back on the lathe again and trim it a little if it doesn't (free of charge). Or you can send me your whole light to begin with just to be sure. I've never seen (or even heard of until now) an SL-20. Interesting. What actually IS the difference, anyway?



Jim,
Streamlight's SL-20X was preceded by the SL-20 model. I bought mine in 1982. It's pretty banged up with nicks, gouges and scratches but it works perfect. It has a different on/off switch than the 20X but the switch is in the same location.


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## John N (Nov 24, 2005)

Can someone point me to a source for the 4k mah battery packs, or higher capacity 1/2 D cells from which to make one?

Thanks,

-john


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## bwaites (Nov 24, 2005)

John,

There aren't any. Ginseng is working on a group buy in the Group Buy forum, but it's been delayed several times, since the distributor had to change manufacturers.

Bill


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## 1331 (Nov 24, 2005)

SL20x & SL20 use the same lamp assemblies and battery packs. The SL-20 swith was a push down for monentary, and slide forward for continous. It's charger had a piece of double sided circuit board that slid into the slot at the rear of the switch under the movable part.

SL20X left, SL-20 Right





Very nice upgrade JS.


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## lastdefender (Nov 28, 2005)

Jim,


Do you have any beam shots of an SL-20X before and after the modification? Also, if I were to send you my SL-20X along with the tail cap you mention, how much would it cost and how long would it take to modify my light?

Thanks,
Gary


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## js (Nov 29, 2005)

lastdefender said:


> Jim,
> 
> 
> Do you have any beam shots of an SL-20X before and after the modification? Also, if I were to send you my SL-20X along with the tail cap you mention, how much would it cost and how long would it take to modify my light?
> ...



Gary,

You don't need to send me your SL-20X. The "mod" is a straight drop-in lamp assembly. The tailcap is a standard StreamLight product. It just screws in place, and the new LA just drops in place. Plus the UCL just replaces the stock lexan lens. No modding necessary. I don't sell either the UCL or the dimmer/flasher tailcap. www.flashlightlens.com sells the UCL, and www.brightguy.com (among others) sells the dimmer cap. I only sell the 1160 ring-potted lamps and reflectors, and only for as long as my current stock lasts. I won't be ordering more reflectors or 1160's. All I will be doing is potting the rest of the lamps I have into fixture-rings.

Right now, all the ring-potted 1160 lamps I had made up are spoken for, so it will be a couple weeks before I have time to do some more, probably. Check out the link above for the ring-potted lamps thread for more info.


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## lastdefender (Nov 29, 2005)

Thank you. I am awaiting a new SL-35x lamp for my SL-20X light. From what I have read, I should see a noticeable improvement. I guess time will tell. 


Regards,
Gary


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## snugs4911 (Nov 1, 2008)

Jim,

Do you still have the drop in mod available for the SL20X? It seems I'm a few years behind the curve in terms of upgrading my trusty old light.


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## lebox97 (Nov 1, 2008)

and revived a 3 year old thread!
:huh:



snugs4911 said:


> Jim,
> Do you still have the drop in mod available for the SL20X? It seems I'm a few years behind the curve in terms of upgrading my trusty old light.


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## Parker VH (Nov 1, 2008)

I might be interested also.


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## PhillyRube (Nov 1, 2008)

Where do I sign up? Twice??


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## NotRegulated (Nov 2, 2008)

Good to see this topic revived. I have been a long-time user of the SL20/SL20X Flashlight with standard lamp and many years using the SL-35X lamp for more output at the expense of battery life. For the last year and a half or so I have been using JS's SL60 lamp. I like it better than either of the stock offerings. It's got better throw and is brighter than stock. If you already have a SL-20X you use regularly look into this upgrade.


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## EvilPaul2112 (Nov 2, 2008)

Im also in for a SL20 upgrade if they are available....


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## russthetoolman (Nov 2, 2008)

Im also in for 2 SL20 upgrades if they are available


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## Bullzeyebill (Nov 2, 2008)

Good luck guys. 

Bill


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## js (Nov 4, 2008)

Hey guys,

Sorry, but not available right now! However, given the level of interest expressed here, I will see about ordering another 10 or 15 Carley RF1940 reflectors. That's the limiting factor in the equation right now. I have the 1160 lamps and I have the potting material and fixture-ring tubing, but what I don't have is 1940 reflectors.

Of course, ordering from Carley is like dealing with the buerocracy (does anyone know how to spell that damn word?) from HELL . . . so who knows when I might get the order delivered to my door.


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## Bullet Bob (Nov 4, 2008)

Put me in for one if you get this going.


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## russthetoolman (Nov 4, 2008)

Thanks for letting us know, I'm still in for two.

Russ


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## EvilPaul2112 (Nov 4, 2008)

Im in for (2) of these mods if and when they become available.....

Thanks,
PAUL


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## js (Nov 4, 2008)

It always surprises me how many people are still interested in this mod! Not that it isn't a great mod for the SL20-X. Add the flasher/dimmer tailcap, and you have a unique light, worthy of being in anyone's collection. No question. I guess it just surprises me that so many people still use such a large, incandescent light as the SL-20X. It's a pleasant surprise, though, and I suspect it may point to the LEO contingent, and the usefulness of an incan light like the SL-20X running the 1160 lamp, or maybe just to the desire for people to upgrade their old SL-20X's that have been gathering dust (???). Feel free to pipe in as to why you are interested in this mod!

I will call Carley tomorrow if I remember and post back here.


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## russthetoolman (Nov 4, 2008)

I have 3 SL20's, the first ones. they have history as they were purchased by me from a retired SERT team member here local. They are supremely simple, solid switch and already beat up so I don't feel guilty about using them. Their design of a potted bulb/ reflector is more rugged than say the magcharger with the bi-pin.
I like them because they are a bit of history. Streamlight offered me the newer ones in trade for these and I declined.
Russ
If the bulb burns out, is it a simple bulb replacement with a new potted one? Or is it the reflector and bulb assembly?


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## Bullzeyebill (Nov 4, 2008)

russthetoolman said:


> I have 3 SL20's, the first ones. they have history as they were purchased by me from a retired SERT team member here local. They are supremely simple, solid switch and already beat up so I don't feel guilty about using them. Their design of a potted bulb/ reflector is more rugged than say the magcharger with the bi-pin.
> I like them because they are a bit of history. Streamlight offered me the newer ones in trade for these and I declined.
> Russ
> If the bulb burns out, is it a simple bulb replacement with a new potted one? Or is it the reflector and bulb assembly?



See js's sig line in his last post, and click on appropriate link.

Bill


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## k9hutch (Nov 5, 2008)

I still have two SL-20s and am interested in upgrading the old-school workhorses!


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## PhillyRube (Nov 5, 2008)

I have 3 of these...an old SL15 (solid plastic large diameter case) and a SL20X (same diameter but has the plastic foam coating) and I'm running SL35 lamp assemblies in each one. Our department issues these, and all our cars have at least one charger in them (my command truck has 5 chargers, with 4 lights). I also have a SL20X-LED, that is my backup light (to my upgraded Tigerlight, my 9N with sharpie teeth bezel, a ThunderAX that is STILL at PTS, my newly acquired Mag 61/11 (for cutting through window tint, and my belt Gladius. Oh yea, I have a Maxabeam in the back seat for problem situations


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## Bullzeyebill (Nov 5, 2008)

PhillyRube said:


> I have 3 of these...an old SL15 (solid plastic large diameter case) and a SL20X (same diameter but has the plastic foam coating) and I'm running SL35 lamp assemblies in each one. Our department issues these, and all our cars have at least one charger in them (my command truck has 5 chargers, with 4 lights). I also have a SL20X-LED, that is my backup light (to my upgraded Tigerlight, my 9N with sharpie teeth bezel, a ThunderAX that is STILL at PTS, my newly acquired Mag 61/11 (for cutting through window tint, and my belt Gladius. Oh yea, I have a Maxabeam in the back seat for problem situations



Man oh man, talk about a flashaholic, by vocation, and interest. That SL15 must be struggling under the load of the SL35 LA. Runs on a subC pack, but it is nice and light. I have one somewhere, also one of the older SL35's not SL35X.

Bill


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## lebox97 (Nov 5, 2008)

as a thump in the night, or LEO/security use light - one reason is the "option" of using it as a :whoopin: or,  if all else fails... 
(it works much better than most other EDC lights for such defensive activities) 




js said:


> ...I guess it just surprises me that so many people still use such a large, incandescent light as the SL-20X...


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## NotRegulated (Nov 6, 2008)

I think that these lights are still in heavy use by LEO's, security and many tradesmen. They are a real workhorse of a light. You can't beat the runtime and output for the price. If you take care of an Streamlight SL-20X it will provide you with many years of trouble free runtime. My early model SL20 (model prior to the SL-20X) underwent daily charging and nightly discharging for years before I need to replace the battery. Of course my bulbs needed to be replaced not because they burnt out but because I usually dropped the light and broke the bulb. I used the SL35 bulb for years which discharged my battery pack at a faster rate and IMHO broke down the battery faster. This was acceptable to me for the increased brightness. JS's SL60 is a better combination for brightness and throw than the SL35 bulb. I have the SL60 in my current SL-20X. I also like being able to change out the bulb while keeping the reflector even though I haven't had to change my bulb yet. The SL60 is not something you need but adds more functionality to an already good reliable light.


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## Policetacteam (Nov 8, 2008)

My SL-60 is now officially over 1 year in service and I can tell you that its worth the money and completely amazing!! JS does an incredible job and my SL-60 is still asked about by other officers. Just the other night we were doing some building checks, approx 0300 hrs, and my back-up spotlighted the building (from approximately 100yards, with his cruiser's spotlight. I then hit the same building with my SL-60 from the same distance! NO COMPARISSON!!! JS, I still have another SL-20X that needs a drop-in as well...put me down for (1). Thanks for the great work sir!!!


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## js (Nov 9, 2008)

Policetacteam,

Wow! Thanks for your kind words! The real credit should go to Welch Allyn for making such an awesome lamp in the 01160, though.

Everyone,

OK. Been on the graveyard shift, and not making the transition very well, not getting much sleep, day after day after day. So, I haven't been very motivated (or verbally functional) to call Carley yet. But I will do so and will report back here.


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## Policetacteam (Nov 9, 2008)

JS,

Slightly off topic but what would you recommend, in terms of batteries, to power this thing. I have been using the stock Streamlight battery with fairly good results but would be willing to spend a little more if there is a battery that you would recommend or feel is much nicer!


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## Bullzeyebill (Nov 9, 2008)

Policetacteam said:


> JS,
> 
> Slightly off topic but what would you recommend, in terms of batteries, to power this thing. I have been using the stock Streamlight battery with fairly good results but would be willing to spend a little more if there is a battery that you would recommend or feel is much nicer!



Google generic Streamlight SL-20X batteries, and Streamlight SL-20X batteries. There are some after market high capacity battery packs out there. Or, you can order some 1/2D loose cells and stack them in the SL-20X. There are some pretty high cap 1/2 out out there also. Google 1/2D batteries. 

Bill


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## Policetacteam (Nov 10, 2008)

Thanks. I will check that out! JS seems to have the skinny on some crazy stuff. I'm waiting for him to construct some custom battery for my SL-60 made of depleted uranium and other components which are classified! JS...are you up to the task!?!


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## js (Nov 10, 2008)

Policetacteam,

Well, the pack made from Aero NiMH cells has been really great, and has been the standard high quality go-to recommendation for a MagCharger or SL-20X for years. But, as you can see if you click on the link and scroll to the bottom, their 5 cell 1/2D pack for MC has been unavailable for a long, long time, and the promised availability date is long since past. And the last time I tried to send them an email it bounced back. Or I had some other issue. This whole saga is probably chronicled in earlier posts in this thread, I suspect!

But, what you are looking for is good quality 1/2D cells, and a pack maker.

For the cells, www.powerstream.com offers a 3.8AH 1/2D cell (NiMH) and can make them into packs for us, but the catch is that the minimum order (for the cells alone) is $200. They are $7.90 ea. So there would need to be a lot of interest to float a group buy of these things. They do offer a NiCd 1/2D for "retail" sale, with no minimum buy, and that cell does indeed freaking ROCK, but it's capacity isn't that high. It's the same capacity as the stock pack, in fact. But, on the other hand, the voltage under load would be phenomenal.

If you want me to make you up a pack from these cells, I can do it. I would end-to-end solder the cells, however, which is great for performance, but not the best in terms of toughness and resistance to breakage when dropped onto concrete, and etc.

Lux Luthor could make up any cells into a welded pack for you, however. Send him a PM. In fact, he may even have some good NiMH 1/2D's lying around, or may know of a source for same. I've never seen his packs, but I would bet he does good work as he is very conscientious and thoughtful.

But, anyway, the stock pack actually does a decent job of driving the 1160, so there's no real _need_ to upgrade the pack . . .


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## Policetacteam (Nov 10, 2008)

Thanks JS,

Like I stated earlier in this post..even with my tired old pack this light performs amazingly!!! I could only imagine what it would look like with a custom pack. Thanks for the info. I may stick with the stock battery for now. If any group buys come open please PM me! Same goes for any new Carly lamps. Take care. Paul


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## EvilPaul2112 (Nov 17, 2008)

Any updates? I have (2) SL20s waiting for new life (Other than the SL35 lamp)....No hurry, just curious....


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## LuxLuthor (Nov 18, 2008)

In response to PM from Paul, other than a group buy order of 1/2D NiMH 3,800mAh ($7-8 each) from Powerstream, these are the only other "easy" and relatively affordable NiMH solution. I'm not vouching for the quality, but the price is right:

http://www.batteryjunction.com/streamlight-fb-5h1.html

They don't have individual cells in stock. I'm not sure how old these are, and/or condition of individual cells, balance with each other, actual mAh at needed discharge rate, etc. etc. , but at $5/cell assembled, that's worth a try.


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## Policetacteam (Dec 7, 2008)

JS,

Any news on whether you will be doing another run of your mods? Thanks, Paul


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## js (Dec 7, 2008)

Policetacteam said:


> JS,
> 
> Any news on whether you will be doing another run of your mods? Thanks, Paul



I've been preoccupied with the whole USL fiasco lately, but I did make an enquiry to litho123 to see if he had an stock 1940 reflectors. No joy there. So, sadly, that only leaves Carley Lamps itself. It could be months before they plate them and ship them to me, but we shall see. I think I will have them send me 10 or maybe 15 and go from there. Does that sound reasonable?


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## russthetoolman (Dec 7, 2008)

Sounds good to me  Thanks for inquiring about the parts for this great mod.
Does our original "chime in" hold our place in line for the first 10-15???


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## Policetacteam (Dec 7, 2008)

Sounds great JS! Please PM when things fall in line. I'm in for 1 as well! Thanks for the great work!


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## russthetoolman (Dec 8, 2008)

js said:


> I've been preoccupied with the whole USL fiasco lately, but I did make an inquiry to litho123 to see if he had an stock 1940 reflectors. No joy there. So, sadly, that only leaves Carley Lamps itself. It could be months before they plate them and ship them to me, but we shall see. I think I will have them send me 10 or maybe 15 and go from there. Does that sound reasonable?


 
I wrote Carly to inquire about reflectors to help with this project since I am wanting a couple and this is the reply I received in requesting 10 reflectors and pricing and availability:

Dear Mr. Schuchman,

I would like to thank you for your interest in Carley Lamps products.

There is a $50.00 minimum purchase required for all products except medical lamps.

Pricing and availability regarding our RF 1940 reflector as follows;
$6.44 each and in stock as of today.

Should you have any further questions, please feel free to contact me and I will gladly assist you.


Kind regards,
Michelle Lopez
Customer Services
310/325-8474 X24
310/534-2912 fax
[email protected]

Is there anything I can do to help this project, like buying the reflectors, you do the potting and we both mail out the items to those that want them? Or I buy and drop ship the reflectors to you and take that headache away of dealing with Carly? let me know if I can assist, it sounds as if you are committed to other projects and time is hard to find for all of it.


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## PhillyRube (Dec 8, 2008)

I don't mind doing a prepay for this......


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## Policetacteam (Dec 8, 2008)

Count me in!


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## js (Dec 10, 2008)

NO PREPAYS!!!! NO!

Money is not an issue. Nor is working with/ordering from Carley lamps. They know me quite well. The price they quoted you was for bare reflectors, BTW!

I have no problem paying for, and ordering 10 or more reflectors. I just wanted people to post their interest. But it occurs to me now that we can't do that in this forum. That needs to happen elsewhere.

So, do NOT post your interest! I have a good idea at this point (from looking at past PM's) that doing a run of 15 of these kits will be about right, or maybe a little under. Which is good.

I'll get on this, but it won't be right away. We're looking at February before I would have the reflectors and start working on them. I'm going to order Medium Orange Peel. It's a good compromise between throw and smoothness.


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## Policetacteam (Dec 10, 2008)

Medium orange peel would be cool because my other drop-in you created was a smooth reflector. I would love to see the difference between the two in terms of throw and flood. Just PM when you have them completed. Thank you in advance! JS...the next Gene Malkoff!?! Hmmm


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## wacbzz (Dec 29, 2008)

Quick question....will this setup (the SL60) work in a SL 20XP? I understand that this is not a sign up thread, but if it will work...:naughty:


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## Policetacteam (Dec 30, 2008)

I'm not 100% but I believe I read that the SL-20XP would not work. I reviewed the original thread but could not find it anywhere. I'm fairly sure I read that the SL-20XP would not jive! Research it yourself!


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## js (Dec 31, 2008)

No. This mod will not work with the XP. Sorry.


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## wacbzz (Dec 31, 2008)

Thanks for the info nonetheless.:thumbsup:


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## Policetacteam (Jan 5, 2009)

wacbzz,Keep in eye in the CPMP for used Sl-20X's. It would be worth it if you can find one.


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## Hotroddn19 (Feb 20, 2009)

I just got a pair of well used SL-20x's from my work. They were going into the garbage! they had been broke, and on a shelf for 5+ years. I just got a battery pack, and took the switches apart, and wow. I have 11.99 invested in a battery!!!

Now I need the upgraded bulb and reflector!!

I know this post has been revived a couple of times, but if you are still producing, or are working on putting them together, I would be interested!!

Thanks,
Andrew
[email protected]


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## Policetacteam (Feb 25, 2009)

Hotroddn19,

Interested in getting rid of one of those? 


JS,

Any new news on the drop-ins?


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## Rverdi (Feb 25, 2009)

My SL-20 is in if another run happens.


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## PhillyRube (Mar 28, 2009)

Any word???


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## russthetoolman (Mar 28, 2009)

I have three SL-20's for sale here, as I am waiting for this mod too...
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=191674


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## jaundice (Jun 18, 2009)

Any update on the SL60 mod?

Thanks,

-John


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## CWhitt (Apr 28, 2010)

I really hate bumping an old(er) thread, but is there ANY way that the SL-60 mods will make another appearance? 
My department requires that I use my issued SL20X on duty, but I'm less than impressed by the stock SL20 lamp. I've also tried the drop-in TerraLux LED, but it didn't really fit my needs either.

Would really love to get my hands on one of these.


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## Phaserburn (Apr 28, 2010)

CWhitt said:


> I really hate bumping an old(er) thread, but is there ANY way that the SL-60 mods will make another appearance?
> My department requires that I use my issued SL20X on duty, but I'm less than impressed by the stock SL20 lamp. I've also tried the drop-in TerraLux LED, but it didn't really fit my needs either.
> 
> Would really love to get my hands on one of these.



If you can't get this, try a SL SL-35X lamp assembly. It's a factory authorized upgrade that is alot brighter. Of course, runtime will suffer; the 35X draws over 3A, IIRC.


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## Bullzeyebill (Apr 29, 2010)

CWhitt, do you have to use the issued battery pack? If not you could buy some aftermarket higher mAh NiMh SL-20 battery packs, and run the SL-35* LA.

Bill
*


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## curtispdx (Apr 29, 2010)

A little off-topic (sorry): 

Anybody know if I can run the 35X bulb in the LED version of the 20X?


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## Wetterman (Apr 29, 2010)

no you can't


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## curtispdx (Apr 29, 2010)

Wetterman said:


> no you can't




Bummer. That would have been PERFECT...


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