# Trit Installation ?



## bigmark408 (Feb 17, 2010)

I need advice on how to install trits....what epoxy can be used ?


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## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2010)

Rockettomato is selling Norland 61 in the MP for it. It's UV curing clear epoxy for optical applications.


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## bigmark408 (Feb 17, 2010)

Is this the only type of epoxy that will work ?


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## SirJMD (Feb 17, 2010)

bigmark408 said:


> Is this the only type of epoxy that will work ?



Anything thats clear after curing will work  But the comes the question, if it needs to be water resistant too.


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## bshanahan14rulz (Feb 17, 2010)

go with the norland, it's enough for probably like, 10 trits at least. Plus it comes with a few pipettes free


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## Beamhead (Feb 17, 2010)

Devcon clear works but will yellow over time so Norland is the better option.


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## Norm (Feb 17, 2010)

bshanahan14rulz said:


> go with the norland, it's enough for probably like, 10 trits at least. Plus it comes with a few pipettes free


Very easy to use and if you make a mess of it (before exposing to UV) you can clean up easily and start again.
When you consider that the trit takes up most of the space in the slot you literally only need a drop or two. Buy here *Norland 61 Optical Adhesive*
You don't need a special light source, put it outside, even on a dull day there's plenty of UV to set the Norland.
Norm


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## divine (Feb 17, 2010)

I have used some 2 Ton clear epoxy that AW mentioned using in some thread. I don't remember where I got it. I read that it is thicker than the Norland product so it makes the trit look like it is floating.

It is clear, but it does wear and become somewhat cloudy. Which isn't really a bad thing, you can still see the light through it.


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## bigmark408 (Feb 18, 2010)

I have some Norland that a friend sent me but i noticed it is past the expiration date...should i bother with it ?


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## damn_hammer (Feb 18, 2010)

I bought the Norland from the MP, a D10 slotted piston, and the correct size trit, but haven't done it yet. I've never been able to determine if you just put a few drops of the Norland into the slot, and then put the trit in, or if you fill it half way so the trit is half submerged laying in a bed of Norland, or if you put some in, then the trit, and then cover it with more Norland so that it's completely submerged, and then if it's completely submerged do you fill the slot completely to where its even with the surface of the piston, just above, just below? Only questions, so have never done it.


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## DuncanHynes (Feb 18, 2010)

Good questions, I too would like to know the technique for filling up 'dead space' in a deep slot and or surrounding the trit in the adhesive.


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## Jay R (Feb 19, 2010)

I use Loctite Glass Bond. Seems to be the same as Norland but at a fraction of the price. Sets clear under sunlight, water resistant, etc...
Used it a few times now with no issues.


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## mikeymoto (Feb 20, 2010)

DuncanHynes said:


> Good questions, I too would like to know the technique for filling up 'dead space' in a deep slot and or surrounding the trit in the adhesive.



I've put trits in some HDS bezels and a D10 piston. I lay the tritium vials in place then glop the Norland on top of it with a toothpick and spread it until the cavity is filled with adhesive. I then slide the toothpick over the surface so it is flat and I can't see any bubbles. The Norland is pretty viscous so bubbles have not been a big issue for me. Then I wipe around the area with a paper towel and set the project in the sun to cure.

That's how I do it and have not had problems.

Edit:

My bottle of Norland is _2 years past its expiration date but is still good_. I keep it wrapped up in its paper info sheet, in a plastic bag, in my computer room closet. Basically it's in a cool DARK place.


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## pugga (Feb 21, 2010)

Hey all, 

I have read about using Norland and a few others but was wondering can i use something like Araldite ultra clear as i can buy it at hardware stores in Australia a lot easier and cheaper than Norland. I already have some and it dries pretty clear. Also should the trit be covered completley with a layer of product, if so i need to take a bit more of the piston of.

Cheers pugga


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## damn_hammer (Feb 23, 2010)

mikeymoto said:


> I've put trits in some HDS bezels and a D10 piston. I lay the tritium vials in place then glop the Norland on top of it with a toothpick and spread it until the cavity is filled with adhesive. I then slide the toothpick over the surface so it is flat and I can't see any bubbles. The Norland is pretty viscous so bubbles have not been a big issue for me. Then I wipe around the area with a paper towel and set the project in the sun to cure.
> 
> That's how I do it and have not had problems.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the explanation mikeymoto, this helps.


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## vudoo (Aug 23, 2010)

Anyone who has used Norland 61, can you tell me how thick it is?

I want to install some trits into the two grooves near the switch of a TI Quark 123. I plan to cover the outside of groove with some masking/electrical tape, put a small drop into the cavity, place the trit on top of the Norland (hopefully it is thick enough so it wil sit on top insteda of floating to the bottom) and then fill over the trit with some more Norland. Hopefull the trit will then be fully encapsulated in the Norland.

Is this the best way to do it? Has anyone used any other tape to block Norland?


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## tino_ale (Aug 23, 2010)

Before curing Norland is very thin. It flows and level itself easily.


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## KuKu427 (Aug 23, 2010)

I used a piece of Al foil on top on scotch tape to dam up the Norland. 
It's 4 seperate fill/cure operations. First tape the exterior side, fill, then slip in the trit. Once that cured then fill in the back side and cure. Repeat for the other slot.


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## vudoo (Aug 24, 2010)

Thank you for the picture, that is awesome!

Ideally I would like to have the trit fully encapsulated in the Norland to protect it. What I don't wan to happen is that I put in the layer of Norland, put the trit on top and then have it sink to the bottom where it will be on the outside.

When I drop the trit into the Norland, will it float on top or will it sink?


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## tino_ale (Aug 24, 2010)

Normally it doesn't really float but it has been noticed that sometimes the trit doesn't fully "sit" at the bottom either. Looks like it has almost a neutral buancy in Norland.

To avoid this you can cure a small amount of norland with the trit installed, in order to set the vial in the desired position. Then, top off with norland to the full level and cure.

KuKu427 I don't know what happened but the surface doesn't seem smooth at all in your picture ??


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## CKOD (Aug 24, 2010)

tino_ale said:


> KuKu427 I don't know what happened but the surface doesn't seem smooth at all in your picture ??


 


KuKu427 said:


> *I used a piece of Al foil on top on scotch tape to dam up the Norland. *
> It's 4 seperate fill/cure operations. *First tape the exterior side, fill, then slip in the trit.* Once that cured then fill in the back side and cure. Repeat for the other slot.


 
He got a nice mirror image of the aluminum foil. For something like that where both sides are acecssible, ideally you could do each insert in 3 cures, one to secure the vial, one skim coat/top off on the outside for a smooth finish, one on the inside for a smooth finish.


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## vudoo (Aug 24, 2010)

CKOD said:


> He got a nice mirror image of the aluminum foil. For something like that where both sides are acecssible, ideally you could do each insert in 3 cures, one to secure the vial, one skim coat/top off on the outside for a smooth finish, one on the inside for a smooth finish.



Could you elaborate on this in detail as itt is exactly what I want to do. I would ideally like a smooth,clear finish on both sides but am not too fussed if the inside is not as smooth


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## CKOD (Aug 24, 2010)

vudoo said:


> Could you elaborate on this in detail as itt is exactly what I want to do. I would ideally like a smooth,clear finish on both sides but am not too fussed if the inside is not as smooth


Use something like tape to hold the trit in place. But make it so that it wont be even with the inside surface, it needs to be concave so you can fill it later. If your slot is big enough, then something like metal foil tape can be used, because you can push on it to make the face concave, and stay in place and hold the trit. Make sure you clean off all the adhesive and you can add another layer of epoxy to top it off and make it even on both sides, being very careful and paying attention to if the drop is even, and not convex (unless thats what you want) 

I use envirotex lite/pour-on for various things, and in a thin layer it releases its own bubbles nicely without vacuum degassing. (In fact if you try to vacuum degas it, hope your container is HUGE this stuff foams up almost completely, ~1 oz of epoxy will foam up to fill a 32 oz mixing cup. ) As long as you can do multiple layers with norland there isnt any reason you cant do the same.


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## KuKu427 (Aug 25, 2010)

vudoo said:


> Thank you for the picture, that is awesome!
> Ideally I would like to have the trit fully encapsulated in the Norland to protect it. What I don't wan to happen is that I put in the layer of Norland, put the trit on top and then have it sink to the bottom where it will be on the outside.
> When I drop the trit into the Norland, will it float on top or will it sink?


Actually it sinks. Like Tino says, a three step fill will "float" your trit in the Norland.


tino_ale said:


> Normally it doesn't really float but it has been noticed that sometimes the trit doesn't fully "sit" at the bottom either. Looks like it has almost a neutral buancy in Norland.
> 
> To avoid this you can cure a small amount of norland with the trit installed, in order to set the vial in the desired position. Then, top off with norland to the full level and cure.
> 
> KuKu427 I don't know what happened but the surface doesn't seem smooth at all in your picture ??


LOL, that Quark has been to hell and back in addition to someone gouging at the norland saying something like "that's not going to hold, see"

I think it's about time I re-norlanded those trits...


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## vudoo (Aug 25, 2010)

Thanks for all the info, I can't wait for my trits and Norland to arrive.


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## KuKu427 (Aug 25, 2010)

Good luck!


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## vudoo (Sep 2, 2010)

Everything has arrived and I have installed the trit with Norland. Now I will have to wait until tomorrow so it cane cure in the sun...

I found I had some bubbles form. I used a pin to try and remove it but the bubbles do not simply pop. Instead I had to push the bubble to the surface and then push it 'out' to pop it.

If I manage to stuff it up, Can I boil it to separate the Norland form the trit to try again?


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## vudoo (Sep 27, 2010)

Here are some pics of my recently installed trits into some Quarks that I am giving away and also in the clip of a Surefire C2.

I found the Norland really easy to use due to its thickness. With the Quark, it was a 3 stage process without any use tape.

I firstly spread a small amount of Norland on the bottom of the slot and placed the trit in place. Once I was happy with the positioning I sat it out in the sun to dry all day.
Next I filled the outer layer making sure that it was level with with the body and did not portrude out. Due to its thickness, it filled the gap between the trit and outside of the slot. Its also did not drip and I was able to still stand the light upright. Again left in the sun all day to cure.
Finally I filled the back and left that in the sun to cure.

Tips:
- If you have bubbles, its a PITA to try and pop with a pin. Instead used the pipette to suck it out and replace with some more Norland

- If you want to re-use the pipette, do not rinse it with water. It only mixes and forms a milky mixture that cannot be rinsed out and will mix with fresh Norland next time you use it. Instead wipe the outside and store like you would the Norland

- If you make a mistake, you can boil it out. Place the part in water and bring to the boil gently. for about 10 mins. Then use a pin or similar tool to pick AROUND the Norland. Do not pry it out straight away otherwise it may break. You may have to boil/pick a few times as when it cools it gets harder. Once you have removed most of it then you may try and pick it out.


Hope this helps everyone!


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## AlphaZen (Sep 27, 2010)

Those look wicked awesome vudoo!


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## vudoo (Sep 27, 2010)

Thanks for the kind words. I wanted to put a few more on the side of the C2 but do not know of anyone that can machine some nice neat grooves.

I have a Jetbeam RRT-0 on the way. It has 4 slots in the tail and I plan to fill three of them and leave the 4th slot for a layard. I will use 2 green and one yellow trit. Cant wait!


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## AlphaZen (Sep 28, 2010)

What size of trits did you use in the Quarks?


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## Tolip (Sep 28, 2010)

Is there a good source for slotted Nitecore D11 pistons?


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## vudoo (Oct 14, 2010)

AlphaZen said:


> What size of trits did you use in the Quarks?




1.55x5mm from Bart

I have installed 4 trits in a RRT-0. I will get some pics up soon once it it done.

Not having a UV light is a PITA


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## vudoo (Oct 21, 2010)

RRT-0 + Trits = :twothumbs


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## AlphaZen (Oct 21, 2010)

Once again, very nice! Thanks for putting those up.


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## CKOD (Oct 21, 2010)

Nice work. A little teaser for a triple P7 DW kit I'm working on. 





Little ambient light...








Black light makes the phosphor in the LEDs glow faintly and makes the trits glow a bit more too

Oh and Vudoo, get a dang black light  I got a cheap lamp for $10 and a CFL black light for like $3. Unless they are hard to find around you. I tested it out with a drop of norland on a penny, and its a pretty firm set after 3-4 minutes, an hour should be enough for the full cure, maybe a few more for good measure... depending on your layout. 

Oh and if youre really really desperate, set the NOA/trit/flashlight as close to a bare, plain fluorescent tube as you can. In about 3 hours you'll have what takes the black light or outside in the sun 3 minutes :duh2:


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## vudoo (Oct 22, 2010)

CKOD said:


> Oh and Vudoo, get a dang black light  I got a cheap lamp for $10 and a CFL black light for like $3. Unless they are hard to find around you. I tested it out with a drop of norland on a penny, and its a pretty firm set after 3-4 minutes, an hour should be enough for the full cure, maybe a few more for good measure... depending on your layout.
> 
> Oh and if youre really really desperate, set the NOA/trit/flashlight as close to a bare, plain fluorescent tube as you can. In about 3 hours you'll have what takes the black light or outside in the sun 3 minutes :duh2:



Do you have a link to these black lights? To install trits in the RRT-0 took me nearly 2 weeks as I left the light out on my window seal for each part of the installation :shakehead

I have got the trit bug. I want to install trits in everyone of my lights. Not only does it look cool but its also practical. I have also ordered 2 trit watches, a luminox and a Armourlite police blue watch


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## CKOD (Oct 22, 2010)

vudoo said:


> Do you have a link to these black lights? To install trits in the RRT-0 took me nearly 2 weeks as I left the light out on my window seal for each part of the installation :shakehead
> 
> I have got the trit bug. I want to install trits in everyone of my lights. Not only does it look cool but its also practical. I have also ordered 2 trit watches, a luminox and a Armourlite police blue watch



http://www.homedepot.com/Lighting-F...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

$5, I was wrong, it was the 2 pack of 100w equivalent CFL bulbs was what I picked up for $2.50 :laughing:

I cant find the lamp I got, but I just got the cheapest, smallest lamp that took medium base/ PAR-20 bulbs that they had in stock. I imagine it'd work in a hanging work light too. 

http://www.homedepot.com/Lighting-F...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

That looks like a good one, and metal shield too, so it wont get baked by the UV like plastic could. $15 for a nice curing lamp, not too bad :twothumbs 

It may not be the ideal frequency for curing the Norland but it certainly works. And for you doing the multi-stage curing you would just have to wait 5-10 minutes between stages, and once its all installed, hit it with a final cure for a few hours. Maybe an aluminum foil lined box to reflect the foil around to all the sides? the 13W CFL emits some heat, but not a ton like a 60-75W incandescent black light bulb would.


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