# NiteCore D10 Comparison Review



## UnknownVT (Jul 8, 2008)

Through the kind courtesy of 4sevens (http://Fenix-Store.com) I have a new NiteCore SmartPD D10 on hand to try out. My understanding is that 4sevens is the official distributor for NiteCore flashlights in the USA.

this_is_nascar already has a wonderful review of the D10 
My Quick NiteCore D10-EX10 Review 
where he has has some very informative runtime graphs - 
my comparison review is supplemental/complementary to that - with lots of direct side-by-side comparsion photos.

Size -





The D10 is noticably shorter than the other single AA lights.

Head -




The D10 uses a very fine grained orange-peel reflector with the silver colored surround of the LED just behind the reflector. Whereas the NDI has it either flush or maybe just portruding into the reflector. The Fenix L1D-Q5 is just behind and the JET-1 IBS is protruding into their respective reflectors.

One of the most interesting features of this new NiteCore D10 is the Smart PD ("Piston Drive") system designed by McGizmo





the tailswitch of the D10 is a piece of machined metal (aluminum?) - it is a button/part of a bare metal tube that fits inside the D10 body - an O-ring acts like the piston head.

The current NiteCore front page has a good description and photos of the Smart PD "Piston Drive" system.

The feel of the piston drive switch is real good and just exudes quality - very nice indeed.

4sevens has also made a video of the operation - UI - user interface of the D10, and since a picture is already worth a thousand words - there is no way a word description can compete with a video :huh: 
- so go watch it......

pdf User Manual of D10 (& EX10)

instructions on how to set brightness level -




One can only set one single brightness level - tightening and loosening the head only sets the light for on/off mode or momentary mode - at the set brightness level. At first I thought this was a real disadvantage - since I am used to multi-level/mode lights. 

However there are shortcuts to get to Maximum and Minimum brightness levels - so in effect the light can be thought of as have 3 brightness levels. (caveat - although once Max or Min are accessed - the pre-set brightness is "lost" - however it is relatively simple to get back to any other level as per instructions above) 






- even though it would be nice to preserve any pre-set brightness level -
in a way I quite like having to set the brightness level again - 
as it means I can literally "tailor" the brightness level for any usage.

Specs from the manual -





I have already raised and questioned the lumens specs in NiteCore Defender Infinity Comparison Review where the spec'd 130 lumens seems rather low in comparison to other flashlights' claimed outputs. It was explained that the NiteCore uses the more "honest" actual lumens out of the front of the light as opposed to the LED spec'd (bulb) lumens........

However look and see -

NiteCore D10 on 3.7V Li-Ion 14500 -

vs. NiteCore Defender Infinity (NDI) also using 14500 both on Max -







pretty comparable - not surprisingly since the D10 is based on the NDI.

However notice the beam characteristics - my sample of the newer D10 has a much smoother beam with far less artifacts - although it still betrays the notorious Cree dark-halo - it is much less obvious than on the NDI - to me this is a great improvement.

vs. Fenix L1D-Q5 Turbo/max also on 14500 







again comparable. Just like above note the beam characteristics - other than the tint my sample of the new D10 is matching the Fenix in overall smoothness - and Fenix has been upto now one of the best in getting smooth beam and minimizing the dark-halo from Crees.

vs. JETbeam JET-1 MK IBS max also on 14500







the JET-1 IBS is brighter - but then it's spec'd at 225 lumens. The JET's beam is not as refined.

vs. Fenix P3D-RB100 turbo/Max primary CR123As







although the tints are different I think the output levels look similar - perhaps the P3D-RB100 might be just a shade brighter - 
the P3D-RB100 is spec'd at 200 lumens - so I would hazard that this NiteCore D10 is probably closer to the 190-200 lumens as other flashlight makers claim for their lights.

So again I think the spec of 130 lumens for the D10 - 
even if it is supposed to be "conservative" 
just seems a bit low to me.

More to come - next up the D10 on regular AA NimH.

*Index* -

Comparison of D10 vs. Fenix P3D-RR100 with tint/color removed in Post #*7* 

D10 on NiMH in Post #*9*

Stairway beamshots directly comparing D10 on Li-Ion with Fenix P3D-RB100 in Post #*19* 

Stairway beamshots D10 on both Li-Ion and NiMH compared to NDI and Fenix L1D-Q5 Li-Ion - Post #*24*

Minimum level on NiMH - Post #*36*

Minimum compared to true low level lights - Post #*37*


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## tennisplyr3 (Jul 8, 2008)

looks great! thanks for doing the review! i'll be looking forward to part ii :thumbsup:


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## chibato (Jul 8, 2008)

Very Nice. Thanks UnknownVT.


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## m16a (Jul 8, 2008)

Thats VT. I very much enjoy your comparison reviews because it gives me a chance to see the light next to lights I don't own myself. Very nice job:thumbsup:


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## Rzr800 (Jul 8, 2008)

Thanks for including the IBS Jetbeam; as many have not witnessed a Q5 driven any harder in comparison (nor an R2 for that matter in JB's other obsolete Pro version). 

Nice job.


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## mighty82 (Jul 8, 2008)

From the beamshots it looks pretty obvious to me that the P3D is brigher than the D10. Not just a little. How bout some lux readings? I can also see that my LF5XT is brigher on 100%. Looking forward to some measurements on total output from these lights, that's just as interesting as beamshots.


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## UnknownVT (Jul 8, 2008)

mighty82 said:


> From the beamshots it looks pretty obvious to me that the P3D is brigher than the D10. Not just a little.


 
Thanks for the input -

I think it could be perception - the different tints may make a difference on different monitors - 
so to remove that variable - I removed the color from the comparison beamshots by deSaturation which should leave only the luminance information (ie: brightness only)

Color deSaturation of the same comparison beamshots -







I think they they look pretty comparable with the Fenix P3D-RB100 slightly brighter?


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## mighty82 (Jul 8, 2008)

Hmm.. Most of the P3D's hotspot is over exposed. But only the very center of the D10's is. Not too much of a difference when it comes to the spill though. Would have been easier to tell if you took some pictures a little "less exposed", lol sorry, my english is bad tonight


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## UnknownVT (Jul 8, 2008)

Part 2 - 

NiteCore D10 using AA NiMH

vs. NDI (NiteCore Defender Infinity ) Max also on NiMH







very similar (other than the different beam characteristics) - the D10 might just have it also has a much smoother beam.

v. Fenix L1D-Q5 Turbo NiMH







the D10 looks brighter - Fenix L1D-Q5 is rated at 120 lumens - both beams are pretty smooth.

vs. JETbeam JET-1 MK IBS Max NiMH







these look about the same brightness - the JET-1 IBS is rated at 130 lumens

vs. Fenix P3D-RB100 Turbo primary CR123A







the Fenix P3D-RB100 is brighter - but not by as much as one might expect for the D10 130 lumens compared to rated 200 lumens of the P3D-RB100.....


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## primox1 (Jul 8, 2008)

Great comparisonsas always!:twothumbs

The Jetbeam is quite the contender with 14500 juicing it.


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## LG&M (Jul 8, 2008)

Thanks for the work. :thumbsup: In your opinion overall is it a " Keeper"?


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## UnknownVT (Jul 9, 2008)

LG&M said:


> In your opinion overall is it a " Keeper"?


 
Oh, yes, definitely. 

I am really enthusiastic about this D10 - once I got over that it is "not a multi-mode" light - but it is, since the max and min levels are so easy to access, and to get to any level of light is also pretty easy.

I can understand the enthusiasm on CPF for both the D10 and EX10.

see:

Introducing the NiteCore Smart PD System !!

Introducing the NiteCore Smart PD System !! PART 2


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## Wattnot (Jul 9, 2008)

How would you compare the D10 nimh to the D10 lion? Are they the same?


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## UnknownVT (Jul 9, 2008)

Wattnot said:


> How would you compare the D10 nimh to the D10 lion? Are they the same?


 
No they are not, the 3.7 Li-Ion 14500 is just a bit brighter (this was also for the NDI - NiteCore Defender Infinity ) 

I will have my standard stairway beamshots up later - for both Li-Ion and NiMH to compare.


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## Grateful Ned (Jul 9, 2008)

Super job, great review. 

:kewlpics:


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## wild68fury (Jul 9, 2008)

Nice review. Love the beam shots!

I really want to try the new PD interface but I was hoping for more output or at least the same as my Fenix P3D-RB100. Does anyone notice the flicker?


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## UnknownVT (Jul 9, 2008)

wild68fury said:


> I really want to try the new PD interface but I was hoping for more output or at least the same as my Fenix P3D-RB100. Does anyone notice the flicker?


 
Hold on, although there is slight controversy - I think the NiteCore D10 on Li-Ion 14500 is about as bright as the Fenix P3D-RB100 on Turbo - see opening Post #*1* , to be fair this was called into question in Post #*6* - so I removed the tint/color to make the side-by-side comparison beamshots easier to judge in Post #*7* - the P3D-RB100 is slightly brighter - but there isn't enough to make any real practical difference - look at the pics yourself to judge.

I think this is fantastic performance from a single AA sized cell albeit a Li-Ion 14500 - that is why I called the rated 130 lumens into question - anyone just reading the specs would think that the D10 would be quite a bit dimmer than the P3D-RB100 - it is not, they are in a similar ballpark.

There is _NO_ flickering on my sample.

I'll post practical stairway beamshots that show illustrate this a bit better.


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## mighty82 (Jul 9, 2008)

wild68fury said:


> Nice review. Love the beam shots!
> 
> I really want to try the new PD interface but I was hoping for more output or at least the same as my Fenix P3D-RB100. Does anyone notice the flicker?


You were hoping the D10 rated at 130 lumens was brighter than the 2xcr123 light rated at 200 lumens?? Why? Hello! It's a 1xAA light. Isn't it enough that it beats all the other 1xAA lights?

And UnknownVT.. I don't know if I have a better monitor than you or what, but I can CLEARLY see that the P3D is brighter that the D10. I know you like the D10, I do too, but there is NO way it's 200 lumens.


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## UnknownVT (Jul 9, 2008)

mighty82 said:


> And UnknownVT.. I don't know if I have a better monitor than you or what, but I can CLEARLY see that the P3D is brighter that the D10. I know you like the D10, I do too, but there is NO way it's 200 lumens.


 
Just hold on a minute - 
at *NO* time did I say the D10 was brighter than the P3D-RB100 - 
in fact I have said:
in Post #*1* 


UnknownVT said:


> although the tints are different I think the output levels look similar - perhaps the P3D-RB100 might be just a shade brighter -
> the P3D-RB100 is spec'd at 200 lumens - so I would hazard that this NiteCore D10 is probably closer to the 190-200 lumens as other flashlight makers claim for their lights.


 
which you rightly challanged in Post #*6* 


mighty82 said:


> From the beamshots it looks pretty obvious to me that the P3D is brigher than the D10. Not just a little.


 
I tried to show the difference was not a lot by removing the tint/colors from the same beamshots in Post #*7* 


UnknownVT said:


> I think they they look pretty comparable with the Fenix P3D-RB100 slightly brighter?


 
in post #*17* 


UnknownVT said:


> the P3D-RB100 is slightly brighter - but there isn't enough to make any real practical difference - look at the pics yourself to judge.


 
So at *all times* I said the P3D-RB100 was slightly brighter.

Here are some stairway beamshots which helps solve the over-exposed hotspot problem -








My opinion is that these two practical stairway beamshots are close enough not to make much real-life practical difference. As for exact lumens readings I cannot say for sure - but they are close - with the P3D-RB100 slightly brighter (which is what I always maintained)

Here are the same beamshots with the tint/color removed by deSaturation -







yes, I do agree with you the Fenix P3D-RB100 is brighter - 
but by how much? and can one really see this difference in real practical usage?


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## mchlwise (Jul 9, 2008)

UnknownVT said:


> yes, I do agree with you the Fenix P3D-RB100 is brighter - but by how much? and can one really see this difference in real practical usage?



Amazing. 

Thanks for the review and great comparison beamshots.


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## blademan (Jul 9, 2008)

This is making me want a D-10 and I already have EX-10! Awesome comparison.


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## mighty82 (Jul 9, 2008)

Okay, they are not THAT different in brightness, but it looks to me that the P3D is at least 20 lumens brighter. The P3D hotspot is brighter, but the spill is about the same. And it looks like the spill from the P3D is a little wider. It's really amazing that a flashlight this small can compete with one of the brightest 2x123 lights.


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## TONY M (Jul 9, 2008)

Great pics Vincent!
The D10 is more impressive than I thought!


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## UnknownVT (Jul 9, 2008)

mighty82 said:


> Okay, they are not THAT different in brightness, but it looks to me that the P3D is at least 20 lumens brighter. The P3D hotspot is brighter, but the spill is about the same. And it looks like the spill from the P3D is a little wider. It's really amazing that a flashlight this small can compete with one of the brightest 2x123 lights.


 

Thank you for that.

I wish it were that easy to measure brightness with a photo - 
perhaps I should modify my guess/take to 180-190 lumens? 
BTW - that was actually what the NDI - NiteCore Defender Infinity was rated at in its manual for NiMH (180) and Li-Ion (190).

Stairway matrix -
















Color removed/deSaturated versions of same stairway beamshots -


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## Wattnot (Jul 9, 2008)

About this "how much brighter" debate, you might want to get more DISTANCE and/or maybe just go outside. At just a few feet, a "slightly" brighter hotspot might BLOW AWAY the other one when you increase the "challenge," especially if there is THROW involved.

So in other words . . . TAKE IT OUTSIDE, FELLAS!!! :devil:

I agree that the P3D looks slightly brighter but you will probably see a much larger difference at 30 or 50 feet. But still . . . a single AA holding it's own in that contest is VERY impressive! Well done Nitecore and good job on this review!


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## UnknownVT (Jul 9, 2008)

Wattnot said:


> you might want to get more DISTANCE
> I agree that the P3D looks slightly brighter but you will probably see a much larger difference at 30 or 50 feet.


 
Appreciate the pun.

But according to my school physics intensity varies with distance by the inverse square law - so DOUBLE the intensity is equalled only by an increase in distance of about 41%.

mighty82's estimate of 20 lumens difference - that is only 10% of the rated 200 lumens of the Fenix P3D-RB100 - so the difference in distance would then only be about 5% - so at 30 feet the 10% brighter would reach an extra 1.5 feet, and at 50 feet the 10% extra brightness would reach an extra 2.5ft - 
I think that would easily be in experimental/judgement error.

This highlights 2 major points here - 

1) my comparison photos are NOT there for measuring lumens levels - 
if it were that easy everyone would just be taking photos instead of using expensive integrating spheres. 
My side-by-side comparison beamshots are merely there for a "look-see" and a sort of qualitative judgement - yes, of course it is always open to interpretation "slightly" vs. "a lot" etc.

2) when it is hard to judge which is brighter, or if the photos seem to show there is very little difference then in all practicality there is very little difference - a light will _NOT_ magically perform better outdoors - when a distance of about 15 feet shows there wasn't much difference between the D10 and the P3D-RB100 even in their hotspot intensity.

Here are 2 rated 225 lumens lights to compare - look specifically at the two hotspots -







both these light probably will out-throw either the D10 or the P3D-RB100 - but the TK10 will do better as its hotspot is a lot more intense - but then it has a much bigger and better reflector than the D10, P3D, or JET-1.


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## wild68fury (Jul 9, 2008)

So here is my real dilemma. I need a new light. :shakehead OK, OK, OK, my P3D-RB100 works great but I have been dying for a new light ever since I shot up the T1. The Q5 can put out 225 lumens at the emitter but the RB-100 puts out 200. Not enough by itself, only 10% brighter. So if I can get lets say 240-250 lumens, or 20%, that would be a good reason for me to buy another light. OR if I could get 10% brighter and a cool interface. Well, I would not be able to keep the $$$$ in my wallet. I was hoping the EX10 (similar output to the D10) would make me happy. Still waiting.... Nitecore, how about a 18650 light with piston drive.


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## Wattnot (Jul 9, 2008)

UnknownVT said:


> Appreciate the pun.
> 
> But according to my school physics intensity varies with distance by the inverse square law - so DOUBLE the intensity is equalled only by an increase in distance of about 41%.
> 
> ...


 
Blah blah what did you say? What pun? All of your scientific blah blah is based on someone's observation of your photo and guessing a 20 lumen difference? You can't be serious. I was trying to be funny and make an obvious point but it was obviously lost with you!! 

The proof will be outside. The reason I'm saying get distance is because you CANNOT TELL the difference in the hotspot on your door up the stairs from that photo but the distance will let your inverse square law take over and give a more accurate rendition. Now do you get it?


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## WildChild (Jul 9, 2008)

By a ceiling bounce test, I find the D10 is about the same brightness as my SureFire L1, way less brighter than the 120 lumens E2DL. But I know that SF are often underrated so it can probably be explained. Still I really like the way the D10 works, its brightness for a 1 AA and the quality of the machining. Those threads shouldn't wear and crossthread anytime soon!

Be careful, by blowing dust with a compressed air can, the cool air caused condensation to appear under the warm lens (the light was turned on). This condensation left a stain on the lens... See this: 

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/4277/img3627hs7.jpg


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## jbviau (Jul 9, 2008)

That would be so easy to wipe off with the EX10. I've taken the head apart three times on mine already. Hopefully the tool for the D10 will be made available at some point.


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## WildChild (Jul 9, 2008)

jbviau said:


> That would be so easy to wipe off with the EX10. I've taken the head apart three times on mine already. Hopefully the tool for the D10 will be made available at some point.



The D10 isn't easy to open... I managed to break mine. I bent the brass ring and it cracked on the angle. I tryed to form it back but now the level switching action isn't reliable anymore...


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## UnknownVT (Jul 9, 2008)

Wattnot said:


> Blah blah what did you say? What pun? All of your scientific blah blah is based on someone's observation of your photo and guessing a 20 lumen difference? You can't be serious. I was trying to be funny and make an obvious point but it was obviously lost with you!!
> 
> The proof will be outside. The reason I'm saying get distance is because you CANNOT TELL the difference in the hotspot on your door up the stairs from that photo but the distance will let your inverse square law take over and give a more accurate rendition. Now do you get it?


 
I got it -

Just took both the D10 (Li-Ion) and the P3D-RB100 outside and at a distance of approx 35 big paces which would be something like 100-105 feet - and shone them both on a solid fence, then one after the other - and they were about the same - 
this stands to reason since their outputs are similar (no, not the same, but similar) and both the reflectors are about the same size - there is no reason why the P3D would have noticably better throw unless it was a lot brighter. Sorry - so distance did not make a difference.


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## Wattnot (Jul 9, 2008)

UnknownVT said:


> I got it -
> 
> Just took both the D10 (Li-Ion) and the P3D-RB100 outside and at a distance of approx 35 big paces which would be something like 100-105 feet - and shone them both on a solid fence, then one after the other - and they were about the same -
> this stands to reason since their outputs are similar (no, not the same, but similar) and both the reflectors are about the same size - there is no reason why the P3D would have noticably better throw unless it was a lot brighter. Sorry - so distance did not make a difference.


 
Cool . . . thanks for checking. That is all I was saying. It was too hard to tell the difference from a hotspot a couple of feet away.

So we're back to . . . . DAMN! That's IMPRESSIVE for a single AA light!!


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## wild68fury (Jul 10, 2008)

Yes, very impressive for a AA light. Might buy one for my brother.


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## UnknownVT (Jul 10, 2008)

Wattnot said:


> It was too hard to tell the difference from a hotspot a couple of feet away.


 
The standardized stairway beamshots are 15 feet, and neither the D10 or the P3Drb100 have burnout hotspots - that is why I included the stairway beamshot of the Fenix TK10 in my earlier post to illustrate the difference.

A really good thrower is the cheapo Dorcy 1watt 3D - based on a mere old fashioned 1watt Luxeon - the total output as expected is not that high, probably in the order of 45 lumens - at the bulb at that..... BUT its big polished/shiney reflector is designed in such a way to throw really well.

Outdoors compared to the legendary "ultra bright" SureFire 9P - that's a 3x lithium CR123 Xenon light (rated at 105 lumens)









But the stairway shot shows that the total output is not that great -











but look at the Dorcy's hotspot!

I also shone the D10 and P3Drb100 at some tree tops later on last night - est. distance about 140 feet, they were both about the same for illuminating. I shone the lights side-by-side - then crossed them over, then tried one after the other - for all intents and purposes they were the same.


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## UnknownVT (Jul 10, 2008)

I know that people have WoW'ed the bright light level of the NiteCore D10 for a single AA light - but to be fair others have matched it like the Fenix L1D-Q5 and even bettered it JETbeam JET-1 MK IBS . But for me one of the WoWs is the minimum low level - 

D10 on Minimum level -

NiMH -

vs. NDI NiteCore Defender Infinity also Min on NiMH







pretty obvious that the D10 has a lower minmum level than the NDI

vs. JETbeam JET-1 MK IBS Min NiMH








vs. Fenix E01 NiMH







the E01 is substantially brighter than the D10 on minimum - NiMH.

vs. classic Arc-AAA (~2003) NiMH







again it's pretty obvious that even the older ArcAAA is brighter.


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## UnknownVT (Jul 11, 2008)

UnknownVT said:


> D10 on Minimum level -
> NiMH -


 
It can easily be seen from the post above that the minimum low level of the D10 is noticably lower than any of the lights compared.

How about some seriously low level lights - that were more purpose built to give low outputs?





Heads -





vs. eternaLight Ergo 3 Red/White on lowest level - white







this shows that the D10 can't go quite as low as the eternalight - but then the ergo3 is kind of purpose built for its adjustable low levels.
note: my ergo3 is a Red/White option which means the lowest level is a single 5mm white LED controlled by PWM.

vs. Rigel SkyLite Mini Red/White on lowest white level







this only goes to show that the Rigel Mini SkyLite can go even lower - 
but Rigel Systems purpose build their lights mainly for astronomers who need to perserve their night adaption - they mosly use red - but the SkyLite has a switchable white option which has an extremely low level.
In comparison the NiteCore D10's lowest level would be "dazzling" - but most of us are not astronomers even if some of us are - white probably would not be used - so this comparison although interesting is really academic - the D10 has a very useful low level that most probably already would find a bit too low for general usage. Kudos to NiteCore for providing a true low level. :thumbsup:


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## mighty82 (Jul 11, 2008)

Only thing I know for sure is that the low level is NOT 5 lumens as advertised. Neither is it 3 lumens. I think it's about 1 or below. This is a good thing, it's just wierd they could miss by that much.

Also, one thing to remember about the "high" level on 14500 is that it drops 25% the first 20 minutes. It will stabilize first when the battery voltage get's below the vf voltage. So, it's only the first minutes it can compete with the P3D.


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## UnknownVT (Jul 12, 2008)

mighty82 said:


> Also, one thing to remember about the "high" level on 14500 is that it drops 25% the first 20 minutes. It will stabilize first when the battery voltage get's below the vf voltage. So, it's only the first minutes it can compete with the P3D.


 
Yes, I saw that too in selfbuilt's wonderful review - 
I don't think the drop is quite 25% - more like 18%?

Anyway I did not use freshly charged Li-Ion 14500 - 
but cannot say exactly how long the 14500 had been used for - 
probably less than 20 minutes, but more than 5 mins.

To help investigate this further - I found a pretty well (partially) discharged 14500 - 
open-circuit voltage of 3.81V which I believe is pretty low - well over 1/2 discharged? 
so the battery would definitely be well into the flat part of selfbuilt's runtime graph.

Li-Ion 14500 over half discharged - o-c = 3.81V







I'm a bit surprised that it is hard to see that much difference between the D10 and P3D-RB100 - yes, of course the P3D is brighter - but not by as much as I thought it would be.....

However the Stairway beamshot was more telling - this was taken after the above set of beamshots - 
by then the 14500 was down to 3.80V o-c














this shows the D10 on an over half discharged 14500 is not as bright as one that had been used for only a few minutes or obviously the P3D-RB100 - the level on the over half-discharged 14500 (3.80V o-c) looks closer to that of the NiMH. 

However having said that - the difference is not that great to make any real practical difference - 
but the D10 does drop in brightness on a partially discharged Li-Ion 14500

Just a comment: like others I have found the D10 does heats up pretty quickly on Li-Ion 14500 on max level - so to run it continuously for over 10 minutes probably is not that advisable


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## UnknownVT (Jul 12, 2008)

I also "took it outside" 
shining the light(s) on tree tops - est. 140 feet -
the D10 with the mostly discharged Li-Ion 14500 was not as bright as with a recently charged 14500 (with only a few minutes use) or the Fenix P3D-RB100, and about the same as the D10 on NiMH.

The difference was not that great - but noticable - I am not too sure how much difference it would make practically - I thought I could see as well with all these combinations.


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## UnknownVT (Jul 13, 2008)

Some further observations -

"Extra" feature in Momentary mode (head partially unscrewed/loosened) -
As selfbuilt observed in his admirable review of this light pressing the piston button down as far as it will go makes the D10 jump to its Max level.

However there is another "feature" - in momentary mode - press the piston button lightly to activate the momentary On - wait for at least 1 sec (might be 0.5 sec) then press further to as far as it will go - the light will start ramping upwards to allow one to set the light output level - this is quite consistent and repeatable on my sample - so it was not just a one-time, or accidental thing.

I could not get the light to ramp in the other direction (ie: go down to a lower level). So obviously it is only good for getting a brighter level - but nevertheless I would think for those who like to keep the D10 at a low level this is quite a nice feature.

Feel of the piston button -
D10 in the momentary mode - ie: head partially unscrewed - obviously the more unscrewed the further one has to depress the piston button to activate the momentary. The manual says to loosen the head one turn - I found I prefer only about half a turn - as the throw is shorter to activate the momentary, and makes it easier to use the twisty action one-handed (although the head twist action on my sample is pretty stiff)

This also affects the feel of the piston button even in the On/Off mode - on my sample there is just under 1/4 turn when the light remains on from fully screwed down - if one backs the head off to the just On position the button feels softer and like there is more travel - I like this feel better than the fully tightened position.


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## HKJ (Jul 13, 2008)

UnknownVT said:


> I could not get the light to ramp in the other direction (ie: go down to a lower level). So obviously it is only good for getting a brighter level - but nevertheless I would think for those who like to keep the D10 at a low level this is quite a nice feature.



It is possible, but your have to be careful not to release the button to off.

As long as your keep the button pressed to on, your can do the same clicks as when twisted on, your just has to be very careful, not to release to off!


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## UnknownVT (Jul 13, 2008)

HKJ said:


> It is possible, but your have to be careful not to release the button to off.
> As long as your keep the button pressed to on, your can do the same clicks as when twisted on, your just has to be very careful, not to release to off!


 
Thank you, you're right, I can now do this, but not that consistently - 
often my release does flick to off, therefore the next press to as far as it will go, will go to Max. However taking your advice I can get it to ramp down from Max - again not that consistently but it can be done.

For me part of the trick is to loosen/unscrew the head more - so that there is more travel. Whereas my previous favored position for momentary mode was 1/2 turn out as opposed to the suggested full-turn - with a full-turn or more the action for ramping then does become easier.

Thank you for the advice.


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## UnknownVT (Jul 14, 2008)

Comparison with the other NiteCore 123 lights - using Li-Ion

vs. NiteCore EX10 - Max Li-Ion RCR123








these look about the same level - the D10 has a smoother beam with fewer artifacts.... maybe the EX10 might be very slightly brighter - but it is hard to tell, others may call it differently.

vs. NiteCore NEX Extreme - Max Li-Ion RCR123







again close.. hard call to say if either is brighter.

I am a bit surprised since the (NEX) NiteCore Extreme has been tested as one of the brightest single 123 lights on the market - and the Li-Ion RCR123 was freshly charged. 

So as a sort of control I compared the EX10 with the Extreme -

EX10 vs. Extreme both Max Li-Ion RCR123







hmmm.... these do look about the same level - again it is hard to say if one is brighter than the other - so my call is that they are about the same.

This doesn't seem to corrolate to selfbuilt's findings in his very admirable review of the D10 & EX10 - where he measured the Extreme as significantly brighter than the EX10, and also the D10 was a bit brighter than the EX10 - 
my comparsion beamshots seem to show that the 3 lights seem about equal...... 
Surely sample variations can't be by that much?
Or perhaps there is measured brightness difference, which for some reason I can't see either in photos or in real-life?


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## bdws1975 (Jul 14, 2008)

NICE SHOTS!!! thanks so much for doing that. i tried the feature you detailed in post 41.

LOVE IT!

thanks,
brett


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## UnknownVT (Jul 14, 2008)

UnknownVT said:


> Comparison with the other NiteCore 123 lights - using Li-Ion
> This doesn't seem to corrolate to selfbuilt's findings in his very admirable review of the D10 & EX10 - where he measured the Extreme as significantly brighter than the EX10, and also the D10 was a bit brighter than the EX10 -
> my comparsion beamshots seem to show that the 3 lights seem about equal......
> Surely sample variations can't be by that much?
> Or perhaps there is measured brightness difference, which for some reason I can't see either in photos or in real-life?


 
Because of this discreprency - 
I just did my standardized stairway beamshots using the Niteore Extreme (NEX) and EX10 - both on Max and those recently charged Li-Ion RCR123.

Here's a matrix comparing the D10, Extreme and EX10 and using the Fenix P3D-RB100 as a control -
















Just to make sure that tint/color didnt make the comparison harder - I removed the color by deSaturation -














These are all close - there are, I am sure, bound to be measurable differences - 
but I would say these are close enough there would probably be very little practical difference in real usage?


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## wild68fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Thanks again for the beamshots. They allow us to see for ourselves how the lights perform. If I did not have a P3d, I would buy a ex10 without hesitation.


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## jbviau (Jul 15, 2008)

wild, you could justify buying a 1XCR123A light as a battery killer to finish off your single cells, no?


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## wild68fury (Jul 15, 2008)

I use rechargeable batteries with a solar charger.


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## THE OFF (Jul 17, 2008)

superp review Thanks:thumbsup:


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## LED-holic (Jul 17, 2008)

Excellent review and beam shots, Vincent!!


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## JKL (Jul 17, 2008)

Excellent review.


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## UnknownVT (Jul 23, 2008)

Further observation - perhaps an anomoly.... 
or trivia :huh:.

Twisting the light to _just_ On, the piston does not seem to want to switch the light Off. 

Even a very slight twist anti-clockwise obviously will turn the light Off 
- but in this permanent On state, even a very slight twist clockwise will then allow the light to be turned Off with the piston.

The position is pretty sensitive - it has to be when the light only _*just*_ twists On

I first discovered this strange anomoly on the EX10 - but found that I could also do it with this D10.

This is really pretty inconsequential for any real practical usage, but it is there, and I found I can do it pretty consistently with the EX10, and slightly less so with this D10.

My _GUESS/speculation_ is that it might perhaps have something to do with a tiny bit of "stick-tion" on the split brass ring in the head, that is the contact switch. If there is a tiny bit of stick-tion when the light just twists On - then there might not be enough travel on the piston action to turn the light Off? Whereas even a slight twist clockwise will allow the piston to switch the light Off (ie: act normally again)


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## flash99dark (Jul 23, 2008)

Vincent....I just picked up my 2nd Nitecore product..The D10..preliminary inside, 2 to 3 meter
on a section on very white painted wood panel shows a very noticeable difference in the EX10 and the D10 in that the EX10 is brighter that the D10 and that the color/tint of the D10 is more like my Fenix LD2 Cree Q2 in that it leans more towards a yellow incandescent than the bright cool bright white of most of my current Led torches.

I would like to state that I love both of these lights and the quick test was done with used Enloop AA's and used Sanyo 2700mah battery. I am waiting for 4sevens to get in some R14500 AW batterys so I can try those also.

A couple of further points. There were no discernible "Cree black rings" in the D10 at any range [12" to about 7 feet]. The EX10 had a very slight black ring at about 12" from the wall
only. When I backed away from the wall no signs of any rings.
The beam shot quality of both of these lights is so good I almost thought that some new type of Cree led was used. [I am not normally a "white wall hunter type"]

I will edit/amend this post upon getting some more new batteries..William


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## UnknownVT (Jul 23, 2008)

flash99dark said:


> 2 to 3 meter
> on a section on very white painted wood panel shows a very noticeable difference in the EX10 and the D10 in that the EX10 is brighter that the D10


 
Thank you very much for your observations - this is what I found too the D10 on NiMH is less bright than EX10, or D10 on Li-Ion 14500 - please see the comparison of stairway beamshots in post #*24* .

However one should be aware that the D10 on Li-Ion does gradually decline from its initial brightness over the first 25 minutes - see selfbuilt's admirable review, and stairway beamshots using an over half discharged 14500 in post #*39*


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## dmonay (Aug 16, 2008)

I've been looking at all kinds of lights for my first bright flashlight.
Nitecore PD 10, or Nitecore Extreme Defender, Jetbeam I OR II PRO, Fenix L1D Q5 or the P3D Q5, Surefre E2D LED Defender.

How does the Nitecore build quality compare with some of these other lights ? I'm thinking of the Surefire E2D LED Defender for a thrower and the Nitecore D10 for an edc to go with or possibly replace my Arc AAA 5.5 lumen pocket light. (But I do love that little light.)

I also carry a Mini Maglight AAA with a Terralux TLE 20 led conversion only at work.

Basically I want a bright simple to use light that uses a single battery 4" or less in length that's pocketable.


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## UnknownVT (Aug 16, 2008)

dmonay said:


> How does the Nitecore build quality compare with some of these other lights ? I'm thinking of the Surefire E2D LED Defender for a thrower and the Nitecore D10 for an edc to go with or possibly replace my Arc AAA 5.5 lumen pocket light. (But I do love that little light.)


 
The build quality of the NiteCore Smart PD series (ie: D10 and EX10) are very good and probably has a similar feel to the Arc-AAA - full checkering/knurling and dark gray HA3.

Of course the D10 is going to be signifcantly larger than the Arc-AAA being an AA light - but it is very compact for a single AA light.

D10 is nice but kind of a "single mode/level" light. That single level can be selected from a very wide range of brightness levels - and one can pretty quickly get brightest or lowest levels - however this means losing the pre-set custom level one has chosen - but it is not that hard to get back to that or any other level.

I like this light a lot - but sometimes wish it had the ability to have multiple (3) pre-set levels.


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## fenixflashaholic0537 (Mar 27, 2009)

I haven't really been a big fan of the nitecore d10. But after reasearch I'm a big fan of the nitecore pd system. Great comparison by the way.lovecpf


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