# Part request?



## kuksul08 (Feb 1, 2010)

I don't know where this type of thread would go.

I am working on my backup light upgrade, and came to a point where I think a custom made heatsink would be much better than hacking together pieces that don't fit.

What I'm thinking of is extremely simple - a 1" diameter slug of aluminum about 3/8" thick - that's it. I might want a small recess on one side, and an extruding lip on the other. In theory it could be done in 2 or 3 steps on a lathe, but I don't have one. 

Here's the thread about the thing I'm working on: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/257087


So... what does it take to have something like this done? I could model it up quickly to give an idea of what would work best. In my experience, machine shops charge A LOT for even the simplest of parts, since it's all in the setup. Thanks!!! Also MODS, please move if this is in the wrong subforum.


----------



## gadget_lover (Feb 1, 2010)

I have not helped anyone for a while, so if you are not too critical  you can send me the specs and a drawing, then I will make one for you.

Daniel


----------



## kuksul08 (Feb 1, 2010)

gadget_lover said:


> I have not helped anyone for a while, so if you are not too critical  you can send me the specs and a drawing, then I will make one for you.
> 
> Daniel



PM Sent :wave:

Something like this is what I was describing:












although something like this would work better... it's a little too complex


----------



## StrikerDown (Feb 1, 2010)

+/- .0002.


----------



## Torque1st (Feb 1, 2010)

Setting tolerances is the hard part of mechanical design.


----------



## gadget_lover (Feb 1, 2010)

That's .0002 mm, right Ray? 

Seriously, Are there any dimensions that are critical Patrick? If any part needs to be matched to another piece, the tolerance will depend on whether the part fits inside or outside of the heatsink.

Daniel


----------



## StrikerDown (Feb 1, 2010)

gadget_lover said:


> That's .0002 mm, right Ray?
> 
> Daniel



That would make it a piece of cake then! :nana:

Almost looks like the "more complex" part would be easier to build except for the lack of dimensions.


----------



## kuksul08 (Feb 1, 2010)

gadget_lover said:


> That's .0002 mm, right Ray?
> 
> Seriously, Are there any dimensions that are critical Patrick? If any part needs to be matched to another piece, the tolerance will depend on whether the part fits inside or outside of the heatsink.
> 
> Daniel



The only interfacing dimension is with the lower heatsink,

BUT

I just noticed something critical. I accidentally attached the wrong drawing. :mecry:






Notice the dimension .76 is now .88. I created the previous one based off another part. The actual OD of the interfacing part is .875, so a few thousandths tolerance will work.

Phew...


----------



## StrikerDown (Feb 1, 2010)

That just made the whole thing more difficult! 

Seriously, nice drawings.


----------



## kuksul08 (Feb 1, 2010)

StrikerDown said:


> That just made the whole thing more difficult!
> 
> Seriously, nice drawings.



Haha :laughing: Here I am already making REV02... do I need a redline?

Thanks. I actually have a hard time doing drawings because I have worked with both Solidworks and ProE. It's hard to go back and forth - they're similar, yet very different.


----------



## gadget_lover (Feb 2, 2010)

You just need to finalize it before I cut the part 

Bottom cavity is .875 +.005, -0.0. Got it.

I'll play with it tomorrow evening, if my wife allows. It's our anniversary.

Daniel


----------



## kuksul08 (Feb 2, 2010)

gadget_lover said:


> You just need to finalize it before I cut the part
> 
> Bottom cavity is .875 +.005, -0.0. Got it.
> 
> ...



Yep, exactly! All other dims can be +/- 0.01, if that's reasonable. Oh boy... that's funny :laughing:


----------



## gadget_lover (Feb 4, 2010)

All done. Now I just need an address for the envelope.

Like all good projects, this was about as simple as possible. Cut off a 2 inch chunk of 1.125 diameter 2011 aluminum rod (I had it in stock). Swap to the 4 jaw and roughly center the rod in it. Face the exposed end. An end mill creates a starting bore for the boring bar. 

And then find the DRO for the compound has a dead battery, Swap it out with a fresh one and... it's screwy. The DRO has gone belly up. The DRO install removed the scales from the hand crank. 

So the rest of the project is done the old fashioned way, with a dial indicator mounted to the bed to tell me bit location. I now realize that I've been spoiled. A lot.

But I got it fairly close to the right dimensions. It should work 

Daniel


----------



## wquiles (Feb 4, 2010)

gadget_lover said:


> And then find the DRO for the compound has a dead battery, Swap it out with a fresh one and... it's screwy. The DRO has gone belly up.
> 
> ....
> 
> I now realize that I've been spoiled. A lot.


Don't feel bad. I would be completely and utterly lost without the DRO on my 12x lathe. I am 110% dependent on the DRO, for every operation, no matter how simple ... pretty pathetic, isn't


----------



## gadget_lover (Feb 4, 2010)

It would have been easier if I were not suffering from a cold. Double and tripple checked and still made a rookie mistake or two. 

Fortunately, Patrick set some VERY loose tolerances. 

Now I have to decide if I want to try replacing the dro unit or try to mount one of those capacitance scales like the cheap digital calipers use. Decisions, decisions.

Daniel


----------



## kuksul08 (Feb 4, 2010)

Awesome! I will PM you my address 


What does DRO stand for? From the little work on a lathe I have done, it was all done with the indicators on the cross slide and tailstock(?). Having to deal with all that backlash was annoying, but understandable considering the lathes were from the 1940's.


----------



## StrikerDown (Feb 4, 2010)

Digital Read Out. It makes backlash much easier to live with.


----------



## gadget_lover (Feb 5, 2010)

Yeah, a typical DRO will read the actual movement so that you know where your tool tip really is. The one that I have on my lathe is not quite that good, it just reads the leadscrew turns VERY accurately. 

With a DRO you don't have to count the number of complete revolutions when you move an extended distance.

Daniel


----------



## wquiles (Feb 5, 2010)

And a DRO can do some more useful stuff on a lathe:

- keeps accurate track of your depth while treading
- can show you actual radius or diameter as you are cutting the piece
- can have stored memory up many, many tools (up to 100-200 in many DRO's) so you would not have to reset each time you put a new tool in the toolpost.

A DRO for a milling machine can even do more stuff, like figuring out for you where to make holes in a circle, finding centers, etc..

It basically makes everything in the lathe or mill much easier, far more consistent, and allows you to concentrate more on the actual cutting job at hand. 

Will


----------



## StrikerDown (Feb 5, 2010)

Some even do espresso... but I can't find that function either!


----------



## gadget_lover (Feb 8, 2010)

Fortune smiled on me.

I dis-assembled the DRO last night and was able to clean the connector between the display and the circuit board. It uses one of those foam blocks to connect the LCD to traces on the face of the board. A quick rub with a Popsicle stick and a wipe with ProGold and it works like new again.

I suspect the out-gassing of the cheap alkaline LR44 battery caused some corrosion.

Life is good. 

Daniel


----------



## kuksul08 (Feb 8, 2010)

Why, look what I got in the mail  Thanks Daniel, it's going to be PERFECT for my prototype.

(yes I know it's not soldered)


----------



## gadget_lover (Feb 8, 2010)

Cool pictures!

Glad the dimensions were OK. It sure looks pretty sitting there.

Oh, thanks for the Latte. Enjoyed it today. 

Dan


----------

