# L3 Illumination's L10 Nichia 219



## CarpentryHero (Dec 31, 2012)

I love finally having a Nichia 219 keychain. It's an AA light, with the choice of three or four modes. 
You can also get them in xpg and xpg2, also different body colours. I'll add more pics when the xpg2 arrive. 
But after a week with the Nichia 219 on my keys. I love Love LOVE it 
from SBFlashlights(Dot)com


---------------quote---------------
Nichia 219 version, disregard the description below for the time being
As of 12/25/12, Nichia 219 emitter with 4 modes in body colors White, Orange and Natural are BACKORDERABLE. Please order soon so we can guage interest and not cause any more complications in the future.

Specifications are for XPG version. XPG2 will have slightly more lumens
Cree XP-G LED (R5) with lifespan of 50,000 hours
Four modes of output: firefly(0.09lumens 147hours) -> Low (3 lumens, 30hrs ) -> Medium (30 lumens) --> High (120 lumens, 1.5hrs) -> (Tested with Ni-mh battery with actual capacity 2500mAh)
Note: 3 mode model removes Firefly mode of .09 lumens. Low, Medium, High only
Stable current regulated circuit, stable brightness
Uses one 1.5V AA battery (ni-mh, alkaline ). 14500 batteries are not recommeded, because they heat up quickly.
20-gram weight (excluding batteries)
Made of durable aircraft-grade aluminum
Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish
Waterproof to IPX-8 Standard
Toughened double ultra-clear glass lens
Reliable twist switch
Candle mode (Capable of standing up securely on a flat surface to serve as a candle)
Size: 79mm(length)x17.1mm(dia)
Mode switch: Tighten and loosen the head to switch between modes.
No mode memory, always starts on Firefly mode

----------end Quote-------------










Total darkness under a pool in the filter room below




Sheer awesome low light pic


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## CarpentryHero (Dec 31, 2012)




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## blackbalsam (Dec 31, 2012)

Just ordered one of these yesterday can't wait to get it


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## KuanR (Dec 31, 2012)

I really like the light too, gunga and I picked up the 10 pack. The mode spacing is good and the 219 tint is awesome, but the leds on all 10 of them were no where near center. 

If this gets fixed I will probably pick up another 10 pack for gifts


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## timbo114 (Dec 31, 2012)

I agree fully about the wonderful tint of these L10 219s.
I have the white and orange units.
Can't beat the price either.


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## CarpentryHero (Dec 31, 2012)

The tint looks a little lighter than the 219's I've gotten in the past. If my malkoff nichia is 4500k then both my L10's are somewhere around 4600-4700k to my eyes. I'll post a pic when I'm less busy getting ready for the party tonight.
Both my 219 three modes are well centered


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## BIG45-70 (Dec 31, 2012)

I'm really liking mine too, its been my beside night now since I scored it! I love the single AA form factor more and more and with cool lights like these coming out all the more reason!


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## diesel79 (Dec 31, 2012)

Looks like I need to order one tomorrow. I have never seen them before this thread.


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## gunga (Dec 31, 2012)

Yep, LED centering was mediocre at best. Still, awesome value lights. I kept a few after gifting!


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## jake25 (Dec 31, 2012)

You guys can stop busting my chops about centering, I'm fixing it


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## gunga (Dec 31, 2012)

Please read the second part: it's still an awesome value light and I still really like it. The centering s a pet peeve for fussy flashaholics but is not a deal breaker.


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## AnAppleSnail (Dec 31, 2012)

Mine is amazing. Why didn't I get the ten pack?

Note: I encountered trouble with a four year old energizer L91, but all good with eneloops.


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## jorgen (Dec 31, 2012)

Great lights at a fantastic price. I think everyone should own at least one.


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## InquisitiveInquirer (Dec 31, 2012)

Anyone know of a good place to get these? What's the price for them?


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## slntdth93 (Dec 31, 2012)

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Anyone know of a good place to get these? What's the price for them?



as per OP, sb flashlights sells them. They have a thread in CPF Marketplace too (dealer's corner) - L3 Illumination L10


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## ssri1983 (Dec 31, 2012)

SBflashlights (google) has them ( I am not sure naming the dealer is kosher, I think linking is not, Mods please remove the name if not allowed)

There was a promotion over at cpfmarketplace, but now they are going for $25. A second run is being done right now I think.
Just realized the first post has the info.



InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Anyone know of a good place to get these? What's the price for them?


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## Norm (Jan 1, 2013)

ssri1983 said:


> SBflashlights (google) has them ( I am not sure naming the dealer is kosher, I think linking is not, Mods please remove the name if not allowed)



SBflashlights thread, there is no reason not to link to the dealer, there are certain sub forums where you are asked not to link to dealers because of the problems there have been with shills in the past.

Norm


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## InquisitiveInquirer (Jan 1, 2013)

slntdth93 said:


> as per OP, sb flashlights sells them. They have a thread in CPF Marketplace too (dealer's corner) - L3 Illumination L10



Ooops. Totally missed that in the first post. I'm debating on getting this and a thrunite T10. hmmmm... Which to choose... I like the spacing btwn the 4 modes, but asides from that, they seem pretty similar!


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## ouchyfoot (Jan 1, 2013)

I got the Nichia in white and orange. I would have liked to have gotten white and pink, so I could swap heads and make a "Nichia Lipstick".


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## CarpentryHero (Jan 1, 2013)

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Ooops. Totally missed that in the first post. I'm debating on getting this and a thrunite T10. hmmmm... Which to choose... I like the spacing btwn the 4 modes, but asides from that, they seem pretty similar!



With the L10 there's no memory, choice of three or four modes AND the option of neutral tint.
The T10 has memory, three modes, and only one body color choice


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## dusty99 (Jan 1, 2013)

Jake: Any idea of when the next batch will be ready to ship out?


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## Brera (Jan 1, 2013)

So it's that good huh? OK, I'm going to get one or two..


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## tobrien (Jan 1, 2013)

thanks for posting this thread and the accompanying pics. looks like a good EDC candidate

and a good candidate for gifting to make other people tint snobs


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## InquisitiveInquirer (Jan 1, 2013)

The blue and green colours are reallllly attractive. I noticed that on the light i edc heavily (Fenix E01 black), i now have a silver bezel haha. There is absolutely no more black around the bezel and the aluminum is getting rather thin. How thick is the body on these?


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## cyclesport (Jan 1, 2013)

jake25 said:


> You guys can stop busting my chops about centering, I'm fixing it



I'm currently awaiting delivery of the 4 mode Nichia 219 from SB and am just now reading the many posts of badly centered LEDs w/this emitter, and am concerned mine too will also be badly positioned. If it is...what exactly does "I'm fixing it" mean?


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## Sector7 (Jan 2, 2013)

bear in mind the non centered Nichia 219 has very very little effect on the beam pattern...when saying "I'm fixing it" Jake is referring to addressing it in the 2nd batch along with the reduce timing (less then the present 5 secs) of the light resetting cycle rotation..these improvements come at higher price tag


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## cyclesport (Jan 2, 2013)

Sector7 said:


> bear in mind the non centered Nichia 219 has very very little effect on the beam pattern...when saying "I'm fixing it" Jake is referring to addressing it in the 2nd batch along with the reduce timing (less then the present 5 secs) of the light resetting cycle rotation..these improvements come at higher price tag



Forget the centering...five sec to reset?...FIVE SECONDS?!! How did I miss reading that? I guess this will teach me to practice due diligence prior to buying my next light!

If this 5 sec reset time is accurate I can't imagine keeping a light with a UI that cumbersome. IMO that feature alone is a true defect, not just a poorly designed UI.


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## CarpentryHero (Jan 2, 2013)

5 seconds before the light resets to no memory (I like that) if its back in my pocket I'm starting right from low Every time.

thats not a defect cyclesport, it's choosing to hit the market that the Thrunite T10 doesn't. Those of us that like a No memory light for our backup lights.


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## cyclesport (Jan 2, 2013)

CarpentryHero said:


> 5 seconds before the light resets to no memory (I like that) if its back in my pocket I'm starting right from low Every time.
> 
> thats not a defect cyclesport, it's choosing to hit the market that the Thrunite T10 doesn't. Those of us that like a No memory light for our backup lights.



I may be too hasty in my assessment as I don't yet have the light, and as I said it's merely my opinion and seemingly a few others on this thread that a 5sec reset time is entirely too long. Perhaps I'm wrong, but as I understand it the next batch is being changed to a shorter reset time, presumably since others have complained about this time lag. That would indicate to me this 5sec lag is at least a bad idea or even a defect, and not an intentionally implemented feature designed to distance itself from a competitors UI. 

I will allow that when I get my copy and have a chance to try it it may not be as big a deal as I'm assuming, but I'm guessing that if it was not a bad design feature in the first place, they would not be changing it to a shorter reset period like virtually every other light on the market. I can't imagine that given the choice, anyone would not choose a shorter reset..._and_ a centered emitter.


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## orbital (Jan 2, 2013)

^

5 seconds is too long, but you can do a couple quick twists to get to low anyway.
_
there is potential _


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## cyclesport (Jan 2, 2013)

Good to know there's a work-around. Still wish I would have done my research prior to buying. I get tired of being rewarded as an eary adopter with lights that initially seem to be bargains with good mode spacing, popular emitters, etc. and turn out to be half developed designs with the flaws corrected on the next production run. Makes one feel a little cheated.


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## reppans (Jan 2, 2013)

I'm very interested this light, love the tint pix of the Nichia 219. Couple of questions.. 

- I understand this light has a sponge spring at the head, what do you folks think of the durability of the material used?
- I read one report that firefly was much lower than the Thrunite T10, anyone have both and can compare?




cyclesport said:


> ... Makes one feel a little cheated.



I know what you mean. Despite being one of the best lights in the class, it's how I feel every time I buy a Zebralight. Either their marketing department needs to adopt the slightest sense of conservatism, or I'm batting 1000 with defective product.


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## CarpentryHero (Jan 2, 2013)

reppans said:


> I'm very interested this light, love the tint pix of the Nichia 219. Couple of questions..
> 
> - I understand this light has a sponge spring at the head, what do you folks think of the durability of the material used?
> - I read one report that firefly was much lower than the Thrunite T10, anyone have both and can compare?
> ...




So far the sponge spring seems a lot more durable and effective than the Thrunite ti so far. That could be do to the larger diameter of the L10, giving more sponge for use. 
I don't mind being the early buyer on these L10's as each batch seems to offer something a little different. The first xpg run had three mode lights with the moonlight mode, then came the xpg2 in the second batch (noticeably brighter) and now the nichia219 (grail led for tint snobs) in a production light. For the price, well worth it. 

2nd question, the firefly mode is almost the same as the Thrunite T10 but the T10 out throws both the xpg and nichia L10's, that's why it appears brighter. It probably is brighter than the nichia.
i got my xpg2's in the male Monday but haven't compared it too the t10 yet


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## AVService (Jan 2, 2013)

I just compared the low on the T10 with the L3 and they are similar maybe the L3 is slightly lower?
It is of course a 4th mode on that light but the 3rd on the T10.

But this is hardly the whole story to me between these 2 lights.
Everything about the L3 seems less nicely done to me than the T10.
The Machining,chamfering.fit and finish are all just not to the level of the T10.
It is also crucial to state here that O feel the same way about the Ti vs the T10 and I got the 2 together in a bundle in December.

My L3 is not the 219 but is the CW and the beam is nice enough,I have plenty of other 219 lights so I imagine I can picture the difference too.

For my money though I am not thinking I will try another L3 just for the 219,there are a lot of other lights around that price now and more showing up every day probably that are just better built to me.

Also Price is not Value every time.


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## cyclesport (Jan 2, 2013)

Just recv'd the 4-mode L10 and I was pleasantly surprised. The overall dimensions are smaller than I envisioned. The Nichia 219 was pretty well centered and only marginally off (much better than I feared), the tint is superb, and general beam quality is very good. The mode spacing is excellent and moonlight mode is just about perfect. Yeah, I do wish the reset time was less, but I'm so happy with the overall package I can live with it.

Like reppans, I'm a little concerned that the foam head material may not fare well w/repeated twists, but it is a fairly dense medium so perhaps it's another one of my unfounded concerns. I may go in search for some similar foam to have a replacement on hand though since it looks like one could replace it and fabricate a new homemade "doughnut" w/o too much trouble. Eneloops are a tight fit length wise and I hope I don't crush any batteries so I'll have to exercise some torque restraint.

Yep...my past disappointments may have caused me to negatively pre-judge this light. My apologies to SB and those I might have offended.


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## reppans (Jan 2, 2013)

Great input guys, thanks... helps set expectations.

I too have not been impressed with my Ti's but the quality, UI, and output of the T10s has shocked me for the price point... I really love it and it blows away my 47s Mini AA with the higher highs (metered nearly 2x) and lower lows. While I love moonlight modes, anything much lower than the T10 starts bordering on useless for my purposes, but having a 3 lms low would be very welcome too.

Think I'll have to try one, if only to experience my first Nichia 219.


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## Phaserburn (Jan 2, 2013)

When is the 219 v2 due in?


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## turkeylord (Jan 2, 2013)

Just wanted to add my experiences:


turkeylord said:


> Got mine today!
> 
> +K.I.S.S.
> +219, tint is beautiful <3
> ...



Also, I did get it to work with my TrustFire protected 14500. The button on the 14500 isn't as tall as a normal AA, so it needs to compress the foam more to make contact. I have to give it a pretty good tweak. Output is great! The moonlight mode is just slightly brighter, then it's like the modes have moved a notch. To my eye, 14500 low = AA med, 14500 med = AA high, and 14500 high is another step up from there. I've let it get fairly hot a few times, but nothing I'd call a torture test. Holding up great so far. :twothumbs


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## InquisitiveInquirer (Jan 2, 2013)

Is the LED centering issue endemic to just the nichia 219 version? For those who own the XPG R5 or XP-G2, do you notice any centering problems?


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## moshow9 (Jan 2, 2013)

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Is the LED centering issue endemic to just the nichia 219 version? For those who own the XPG R5 or XP-G2, do you notice any centering problems?


Nope, no issues with XP-G2/XP-G centering. Jake25 commented over on CPFMP that it was limited to the L10's that house the 219.


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## gunga (Jan 2, 2013)

I have an xpg2 that is also mediocre centering, so there is a bit of (expected) sample variation.


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## InquisitiveInquirer (Jan 2, 2013)

What's up with this battery crusher thing? Should i be concerned?


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## tatteredmidnight (Jan 2, 2013)

I ordered one of these a few days ago, quite excited to get my hands on a 219 light and check out the emitter. We have been screaming for years for tint and CRI, and here a manufacturer is making a premium tint and CRI emitter available at a very inclusive price point. 

I applaud what they are doing and I hope that the design is reasonably well executed.

-- Adam


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## dusty99 (Jan 2, 2013)

I agree. Can't wait to get my version 2.


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## AnAppleSnail (Jan 2, 2013)

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> What's up with this battery crusher thing? Should i be concerned?



Are you The Incredible Hulk? Like most small twisties, lighten up when you feel resistance. It's a distinct change from tightening to crushing. It's kind of similar to starting a car vs. twisting the ignition free.


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## Newuser01 (Jan 2, 2013)

Could someone do a bean shot shoot out of "xpg2 vs nichia " "nimh vs 14500" and also compare to other well know lights such as Q-mini AA or ET clicky?

regards.


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## Lithium466 (Jan 3, 2013)

I have a white XP-G2 with off centered led, but it is only visible on the beam in the two first modes (moonlight and low). Hope the situation will improve with Nichia 219 because I ordered two !


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## tatteredmidnight (Jan 3, 2013)

I am lucky to have one of the 47s Mini AA Hi CRI lights on my desk. I will try to take some shots and post some thoughts about the two when i get my L10. It just left TX yesterday on its way to NJ. I also have no problems trying them out on 14500's.

-- Adam


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## timbo114 (Jan 3, 2013)




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## Lithium466 (Jan 3, 2013)

Lithium466 said:


> I have a white XP-G2 with off centered led, but it is only visible on the beam in the two first modes (moonlight and low). Hope the situation will improve with Nichia 219 because I ordered two !


I answer myself, but this afternon I fixed the off centered led, very easy in fact, the head wasn't glued, and the led board not soldered. Now the beam is like the one on timbo114's picture


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## Newuser01 (Jan 3, 2013)

timbo114 said:


> Picture!


Thanks for this.
Nice representation of tint color differences. 
Could you may be tell me which is brighter assuming ruining on NIMH on hi (all the lights.) shinning it on to the ceiling ? 

And size comparison picture may be good too.

We all know pretty much the spec's on these lights but to the eye and to the person using it - it is different.


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## Brera (Jan 4, 2013)

Very nice timbo114! A picture tells a thousand words.


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## cyclesport (Jan 4, 2013)

Well, these are robust little lights. Mine has taken a fall from the top of the fridge to the ceramic tile floor, and other than a pin-head sized chip of ano off the bezel...absolutely no other damage, not even a rattle or broken glass. I had a knotted piece of paracord tied to a split ring on the end as an anti-roll device, with obviously less than adequate results.:shakehead


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## CreeCrazy (Jan 4, 2013)

I have the XP-G2 and the centering is horrible.


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## CreeCrazy (Jan 4, 2013)

Lithium466 said:


> I answer myself, but this afternon I fixed the off centered led, very easy in fact, the head wasn't glued, and the led board not soldered. Now the beam is like the one on timbo114's picture



Was you just able to unscrew the head? I've tried maybe mine is glued???


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## ToyTank (Jan 4, 2013)

I both love and hate that every run is slightly different. It's great to see obvious things being address quickly. Jake has done a great job getting feedback to the factory 

You can never please everybody-so many different runs in smaller numbers increases the cost per unit- causes confusion, and dilutes your own product. I'd like to keep seeing varied color and emitter options and steady improvements coming through even if that increases production costs. 

It does look like a great light and I have a XP-G2 and 219 set to deliver today


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## Lithium466 (Jan 5, 2013)

CreeCrazy said:


> Was you just able to unscrew the head? I've tried maybe mine is glued???


Yes, in fact mine was just slightly glued, so slightly I didn't noticed at first sight. I had to took a piece of clothe (to protect the finish) and a pair of pliers to unscrew it, anyway.

And after you fixed the uncentered led, you have to tighten the head very tight (or to glue it), otherwise it will unscrew when operating the light :/

There was some white "cheap" thermal grease under the led board, I was tempted but I didn't replaced it.


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## gravelmonkey (Jan 5, 2013)

Ordered a 10pk and carried a black 4 mode 219 L10 for the last week, just thought I'd add some of my thoughts/observations (as I can't bring myself to write what would be my first review )

1) Its been in the same pocket as my keys, slight wear occuring on the anodising already when I compare it with the black Peak eiger AAA that's been on the keychain for the last 2-3 weeks, not bothered too much by it though.

2) The mode sequence is L-M-H, with no mode memory BUT sequential mode changes. (my go-to light is L-M-H but after more than ~3 seconds at any one level always reverts to Low on the next mode change which I really like)

3) Re-set to low when switched off is c.5-6 seconds, tad too long in my opinion given the sequential L-M-H described in (2).

4) As stated before by *turkeylord*, 14500's will bump up each level but moonlight on the 4 mode is still very acceptable (MUCH less than the claimed 2.5lm of my Olight i2)

5) There is (I think) a very slight delay when switching on/mode changes (about .1 seconds?). Possibly how I've come to crush an eneloop (but that might be just be being ham-fisted... )

6) Using AW 14500's requires a fairly substantial twist- the button tops on mine seem to sit almost flush with the protection circuit so requires the foam to be completely compressed.

7) Foam seems fairly robust, it doesn't look like it would be too difficult to replace if it wore out.


Very few negatives so far- of the 10 lights I recieved, most had a fairly well centered 219 and only 2 had some sort of flakes (glue?) on the reflector/inside the lens.

GM


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## tatteredmidnight (Jan 5, 2013)

Just got mine today. Very impressed with the emitter and the overall feel of the light. The emitter on mine is acceptably centered, but the o-ring is visible next to the dome of the LED, this does not seem to effect beam quality and I'm very happy at this price point. 

*The tint on this emitter is awesome in every sense of the word!!!*

Overall, nice job L3 Illuminations. If you can work out the details on the emitter placement this will be a really top notch product in a class of its own, as it stands now i love it.

-- Adam


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## Beacon of Light (Jan 6, 2013)

I wish L3 Illuminations would incorporate the same UI the same XP-G2 or Nichia 219 the same spaced output 3 or 4 mode levels into a headlamp. I've been asking Thrunite to do this since they introduced their Ti light and they keep giving me the "coming soon" message even a year later.


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## InquisitiveInquirer (Jan 19, 2013)

CreeCrazy said:


> I have the XP-G2 and the centering is horrible.



My xp-g2 centering is quite decent, but the weird thing is that on that clear plastic dome on the LED, there is what appears to be a white paint smudge at one section. I don't know what it is and i wonder if it would afect anything? Anyone else have a white smudge on their LED? First time i've seen this on any of my lights.


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## CreeCrazy (Jan 19, 2013)

I had to open mine to re-center the led. It's probably the thermal grease they used. It is filled with white grease inside. After re-centering mine it is much better. I did scratch the black anodizing off a little because it had quite a bit of glue holding it on. Much better!


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## turkeylord (Jan 22, 2013)

My 219 L10 has become my EDC light, and for the record I've been running 14500 in it since I got it without a problem. It doubles as a hand warmer on high, lol...

One of the great things about this light is that it's relatively cheap, so I haven't had to worry about using and abusing it a bit. The tail end of the light was getting pretty chipped up, and through a failed attempt at adding a D-ring to the tailcap I had ripped out the lanyard attachment point. The tail had always been a little sharp on the edges, and now that I had beat it up some I figured I'd just remove the lanyard point and ring with a disk sander. Sanded it down flat, then juuust enough to remove the anno on the recessed part of the tail (I suspect it's pretty thin here). Chamfered the edge and it's good to go. More comfortable in and out of the pocket now, not to mention a tad shorter. Apologies for the awful picture, but you'll get the idea anyway...







Just thought I'd mention it in case someone else might be interested.


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## blackbalsam (Jan 22, 2013)

I've had a 4 stage Orange one ordered now for some time. I hope it shows up soon...Robert


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## InquisitiveInquirer (Jan 22, 2013)

Anyone know what the runtime on the 30 lumen mode is? For the specs, it's the only one with runtimes omitted. 

Specs say the following: firefly(0.09lumens 147hours) -> Low (3 lumens, 30hrs ) -> Medium (30 lumens, *???hrs*) --> High (120 lumens, 1.5hrs)


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## turkeylord (Jan 23, 2013)

turkeylord said:


> I did get it to work with my TrustFire protected 14500. The button on the 14500 isn't as tall as a normal AA, so it needs to compress the foam more to make contact. I have to give it a pretty good tweak. Output is great! The moonlight mode is just slightly brighter, then it's like the modes have moved a notch. To my eye, 14500 low = AA med, 14500 med = AA high, and 14500 high is another step up from there. I've let it get fairly hot a few times, but nothing I'd call a torture test. Holding up great so far. :twothumbs


Now that I own two of these, I'd like to amend this post, lol...

As far as I can tell, the moonlight mode is identical on either a primary or 14500. One of my L10's is ever so slightly brighter than the other, regardless of battery. The other modes are all higher than previously estimated as well - I'd put 14500 low above AA medium, and 14500 medium above AA high. Maybe I can get some pictures taken to make it more clear. Still no issues on a 14500 cell, even after letting it get quite warm several times.


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## tatteredmidnight (Jan 23, 2013)

I've only used 14500's in mine since i got it, no problem so far, but i haven't been that brave in the heat department.

-- Adam


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## turkeylord (Jan 24, 2013)

And now, the answer to the question no one was asking...

A comparison between different cell chemistries in the 219 L10. I don't have the best camera for beam shots, but the relative brightness is what I'm trying to illustrate anyway. 

*Cells used, all new or freshly charged*






Alkaline is always on the left, and modes are placed as follows:

Moonlight Low
Medium High


*Alkaline vs. Alkaline (control)*





*Alkaline vs. 1.5v Lithium*





*Alkaline vs. Eneloop*





*Alkaline vs. NiMH*





*Alkaline vs. 14500*






Observations:
-The left L10 has a very slightly creamier and brighter beam than the right one.
-Moonlight on both 1.2V cells is quite a bit lower than either 1.5V or 3.7V cells.
-3.7V moonlight is surprizingly no brighter than the 1.5V moonlight. 
-The two 1.5V cells performed identically to eachother, as did both 1.2V cells.


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## KuanR (Jan 24, 2013)

That's a great comparison for relative brightness. Thanks for taking the pictures. I should add I tried an AW 14500 IMR cell and the light wouldn't turn on because the cell is slightly too short. It works fine with an Ultrafire cell like yours in my light


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## tatteredmidnight (Jan 24, 2013)

My protected AW14500 fits fine, as do my flame trustfire cells.

Thanks for the beamshots, nice job.

--Adam


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## turkeylord (Jan 26, 2013)

Thanks guys. One more to add, 3v Lithium from a CR-3V.

*Alkaline vs. 3v Lithium*




I expected it to be closer to the 14500, but it's just a marginal improvement over the max output of the alkaline in my estimation. Plus, the low mode is raised pretty significantly. IMHO, not a great option unless the long shelf life is your primary concern.


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## yoyoman (Feb 6, 2013)

I got mine in the mail yesterday. Nichia 219 and XPG2. Leds are centered - no issue. I threw in IMR 14500 and they are very bright. They get hot fast and I will switch to protected cells. The Nichia 219 is a little cooler than my other 219s. For the price, very cool lights.


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## tickled (Feb 8, 2013)

Is this a high CRI emitter?


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## MojaveMoon07 (Feb 8, 2013)

gravelmonkey said:


> 2) The mode sequence is L-M-H, with no mode memory BUT sequential mode changes. (my go-to light is L-M-H but after more than ~3 seconds at any one level always reverts to Low on the next mode change which I really like)
> 
> *3) Re-set to low when switched off is c.5-6 seconds, tad too long in my opinion given the sequential L-M-H described in (2).*



#1 May I ask the people receiving units from this second batch to comment if the time to reset has been shortened from the length of 5-6 seconds from the first batch ?

#2 Any ordered four stage lights are from the second batch with adjusted centering and adjusting reset time. If we order a three stage light now, will it too have adjusted centering and adjusted reset time ?


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## PCC (Feb 8, 2013)

tickled said:


> Is this a high CRI emitter?


Yes


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## tickled (Feb 8, 2013)

PCC said:


> Yes


 There's a few versions of the 219 emitter and high CRI is not mentioned anywhere on the product page or the CPMF thread...


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## blackbalsam (Feb 8, 2013)

Received my Orange N219 4-mode today with a perfectly centered LED. I think i am going to like this one alot...Robert


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## yoyoman (Feb 8, 2013)

I just tested mine - it is nighttime in Switzerland. I never noticed before, but the reset time is long. I usually cycle through the modes until I get what I want/need and then stop. Not a show stopper for me. Especially considering the price/value equation. Not the best lights I have, but cool and enjoyable.

Edit: My Nichia 219 is white and my XP-G2 is orange. Both have long reset times.


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## PCC (Feb 8, 2013)

tickled said:


> There's a few versions of the 219 emitter and high CRI is not mentioned anywhere on the product page or the CPMF thread...


I just ping'd Jason and he told me that he sourced the emitters from Craig. Craig only orders high-CRI 219s so that's the unofficial answer.


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## novice (Feb 9, 2013)

I'm not sure how long it will take to get, but I just ordered an orange (ORANGE!) 3-mode model.


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## stevieo (Feb 9, 2013)

yoyoman said:


> I just tested mine - it is nighttime in Switzerland. I never noticed before, but the reset time is long. I usually cycle through the modes until I get what I want/need and then stop. Not a show stopper for me. Especially considering the price/value equation. Not the best lights I have, but cool and enjoyable.



the long memory is my only complaint but I easily over look that small inconvenience. I own seven 3 & 4 mode xp-g2 and one 4 mode Nichia 219 lights. i buy them exclusively as gifts. for usd$20 they are great value flashlights. I always carry a 4 mode xp-g2 in my flight bag & keep a 4 mode Nichia (warm light lower lumen) at my bedside table.

great priced lights from an awesome seller.

jason goes above and beyond the call of duty to make available great lights at a great price to promote the sport of flashlightaholicism.


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## staticx57 (Feb 10, 2013)

novice said:


> I'm not sure how long it will take to get, but I just ordered an orange (ORANGE!) 3-mode model.




I ordered a 4 mode Natural Nichia 219. I can't wait.


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## Mr Floppy (Feb 10, 2013)

People in the marketplace thread have already received the second batch of 4 mode 219s. I got the shipping notice but the light has just passed Chicago on its way over the Pacific ocean (hopefully)


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## dusty99 (Feb 10, 2013)

The orange is a great color. I have the XPG2 in orange and the 219 in "natural."


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## MojaveMoon07 (Feb 10, 2013)

In the cpfmarketplace, Hondo reported _(posts # 340, 348)_ that his 4-mode Nichia 219 from the second batch still has the 5-6 second reset time.

dusty99 replied that his natural 219 from the second batch has a 2 second reset time

Maybe only certain colors of the second batch have the 2 second reset time ? When you receive your 219 from the second batch, could you tell us what your color and reset time are ?


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## Mr Floppy (Feb 14, 2013)

MojaveMoon07 said:


> Maybe only certain colors of the second batch have the 2 second reset time ? When you receive your 219 from the second batch, could you tell us what your color and reset time are ?



I have an Orange 4 mode and I have the 2 second reset time.


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## Lithium466 (Feb 15, 2013)

I just received a White and an Orange (4 mode), and they both have 5-6s reset time 
Too bad :mecry:


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## staticx57 (Feb 15, 2013)

I just got a natural 4 mode and it has the 5-6 second reset time. :\

On more use it seems excitement got the better of me, the reset time is actually around 2-3 seconds.


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## Southpaw1925 (Feb 16, 2013)

Does anyone know of a compatible pocket clip (preferably deep carry) for the L10?


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## sinnyc (Feb 16, 2013)

My orange 4 mode arrived yesterday and it has the 5-6 second reset. I don't see it as an issue at all. Had it not been mentioned, I probably wouldn't have noticed it


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## jabe1 (Feb 16, 2013)

My neutral: 5 seconds (first run)
orange: 2-3 seconds (second run)


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## Southpaw1925 (Feb 19, 2013)

Hey guys, I just got my L10 Natural xpg2 and I think there's something wrong. While unscrewing the head to put a battery in it, the head and the reflector is the only thing that came off. The emitter is still screwed on the body. Am I missing something here?


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## jake25 (Feb 19, 2013)

Get some loctite and loctite it shut. Let it sit and try unscrewing it again, everything should come off exposing the battery tube


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## reppans (Feb 19, 2013)

Got my Black L10/219 4 mode over the weekend. It has the 5 sec reset time and an off-center emitter, although the beam seems fine unless you roll the light. Tint is beautiful (always wanted to try the 219 emitter out) but I don't really like the sponge spring, or feeling of the twisty action - I hope it proves to be durable since the long reset will probably mean me always cycling forward through all modes to get back to low (more compression cycles). I might dab some grease at negative battery contact to minimize shear forces on the sponge spring.

The 0.09 firefly is way lower than the Thrunite T10 0.09 firefly, and that was about low as I care to go (and I'm a complete sub-lumen fan). I much prefer the ThruNite T10's steel spring, twisty action, memory mode and brighter firefly, but Nichia's tint is obviously tough to beat. Still, I think I'll be buying more T10s for gift lights since I don't feel tint will weigh that heavily with non-flashaholics.

FWIW, I took the following lumen measurements with my DSLR for both lights:

T10: 0.13, 13, 113 (coincidence?)
L10: 0.03, 2.5, 20, 80 

(DSLR calibrated off a D25A Clicky)


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## Southpaw1925 (Feb 19, 2013)

jake25 said:


> Get some loctite and loctite it shut. Let it sit and try unscrewing it again, everything should come off exposing the battery tube



Thanks jake25, it worked perfectly. What a nice little light!! It's a keeper


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## edpmis02 (Feb 21, 2013)

Yesterday I ordered a L10 Nichia 219 (4 mode) and a XPG2 (3 Mode).


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## Mr Floppy (Feb 23, 2013)

I have some comparative light meter readings of the L10 219 now. These are sort of ceiling bounce readings, although, really they were performed in the room under my staircase. Probably the last time I'll be using it as moving all the junk in and out is a bit of a pain. The room is 150cm high (5 feet) and 100x180 cm (~3'x8'). The colour of the walls and ceiling are a natural MDF coloured with a darkish grey concrete wall at the highest point and sloping down to the other end. Lights were put against this concrete wall about 20 cms off the ground and the light meter sensor was about 5cm above the ground. It's a small room, the reason for this was to get low readings. The regular bathroom I use to use would not give me a reading on low. 


L3 Illumin10 219Fenix LD10 R4Zebralight H51wlowest0.4 lux10.9 lux0.1 lux low7.2 lux45.7 lux0.4 luxmid40.7 lux110.1 lux19.8 / 68.2 luxhigh/turbo157.1 lux164.5 lux230 / 280 lux

With the last reading on the H51w, my light meter goes into x10 mode once any reading is above 200 lux. 

So estimated Lumens based of selfbuilts L10 R4 ceiling bounce max of 7.2, the ratio I'll use 22.8, so converting my LD R4 figures, I get 4.8, 2, 0.5. Now relative to his lightbox max, the multiplier I'll use is 10.1, so 48.8, 20.2, 5. Looking at the ROV values from his graph, you'll notice they are just a little under 53, 31, 12, so bear that in mind for any estimated lumens. Also bear in mind that my LD10 R4 was bought at the same time the LD10 R5 came out so there may be a circuit change, and my light meter is rather cheap .. 

so to be taken with a grain of salt, here are my estimated lumens
0.56 * (0.4 / 22.8 * 10.1)^1.3 = 0.06 lumens
0.56 * (7.2 / 22.8 * 10.1)^1.3 = 2.5 lumens
0.56 * (40.7 / 22.8 * 10.1)^1.3 = 24 lumens
0.28 * (157.1 / 22.8 * 10.1)^1.48 = 149.3 lumens (p.s. I dont like any of the high readings)


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## PCC (Feb 24, 2013)

My Nichia L10's emitter isn't all that badly off center, but, I decided to make a tool to make taking it apart a lot easier.







Mine wasn't all that bad, but, it did bug me. I made this tool to make it easier to dismantle the L10 head.







You unscrew the screws, thread in the L10 head, then tighten the screws. You can then grab the head by the knurling and unscrew it. If it puts up a fight then some heat from a hair dryer or heat gun will let you unscrew the head with just your fingers.















The result of some shimming is a centered emitter. A drop of Loktite and the head stays put when you twist the head.


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## gunga (Feb 24, 2013)

Nice tool. I used v jawed pliers and rubber strap wrench parts.


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## joelbnyc (Feb 26, 2013)

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Anyone know what the runtime on the 30 lumen mode is? For the specs, it's the only one with runtimes omitted.
> 
> Specs say the following: firefly(0.09lumens 147hours) -> Low (3 lumens, 30hrs ) -> Medium (30 lumens, *???hrs*) --> High (120 lumens, 1.5hrs)



I'm wondering the same thing, what is the runtime on medium?


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## Mr Floppy (Feb 27, 2013)

joelbnyc said:


> I'm wondering the same thing, what is the runtime on medium?



Well, I just did some tail cap readings, and I would have to say it is hard work trying to compress that foam ring to make contact and hold the probes.. 

anyway, with an Eneloop, 2000mAh first gen white which had min. rating of 1900 but last tested to be 1958 mAh I got the readings:
firefly: N/A, low: 0.04A, medium: 0.25A, high: 1.9A
so medium based on a 2000mAh battery would give you 8 hours. 

Funnily enough, low should actually give you 50 hours and high only 1 hour. Sorry, multimeter just couldn't get low enough for firefly, just a cheapie. 

The other strange thing, with an Ultracell 2000 LSD from Aldi, Imedion 2100 LSD, Turnigy 2200 LSD, Varta 2300 LSD, all readings were the same except high, which hovered around 1.5A and 1.6A. Voltage sag does seem to play a part. Might have to do some ceiling bounce readings.


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## bwm (Feb 28, 2013)

The light I received this week is a Natural Nichia. I put a fully charged eneloop in it and I am experiencing a 2 second reset time.


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## dusty99 (Feb 28, 2013)

2 sec. every time, and from every mode? As I posted elsewhere, mine seems to vary between 2-4 sec (mostly 3-4).



bwm said:


> The light I received this week is a Natural Nichia. I put a fully charged eneloop in it and I am experiencing a 2 second reset time.


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## joelbnyc (Mar 1, 2013)

Mr Floppy said:


> anyway, with an Eneloop, 2000mAh first gen white which had min. rating of 1900 but last tested to be 1958 mAh I got the readings:
> firefly: N/A, low: 0.04A, medium: 0.25A, high: 1.9A
> so medium based on a 2000mAh battery would give you 8 hours. .



Thanks for posting, not bad!


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## bwm (Mar 1, 2013)

Yes, 2 seconds from every mode. My eneloop is now probably 1/3 to 1/2 down in capacity from use in the light. 
Further info: my light is a 4 mode light.


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## markr6 (Mar 4, 2013)

I would like to get one of these but not starting in HIGH mode is a deal breaker


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## Lithium466 (Mar 5, 2013)

Not starting in low is for me a deal breaker  I use mainly my lights at night, and I hate lights that start in high, ruins my night vision...
I'd like to see a AAA version :twothumbs


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## yoyoman (Mar 5, 2013)

I prefer lights that start in L. I don't understand why I should cycle through modes to get to L. By the time I get to L, my night vision is ruined and I need M.

The only way to make everyone happy is to have a memory mode. I have a Tank 007 E09 and a Prometheus Ready-Made and they have memory mode. The problem is that no one is happy with memory mode because you actually have to think. So you can't make everyone happy unless you offer 2 versions - LMH and HML. Then the cost goes up.


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## markr6 (Mar 5, 2013)

Lithium466 said:


> Not starting in low is for me a deal breaker  I use mainly my lights at night, and I hate lights that start in high, ruins my night vision...
> I'd like to see a AAA version :twothumbs



I think it would be really ideal to have an option. One that starts in low for my night stand and one or more for in the car, home, etc. that start in HIGH

Right now I use my H51 on the night stand so I can start it in moonlight mode when I wake up - absolutely necessary in this case. Otherwise I'll probably always use high to start.


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## jcw122 (Mar 5, 2013)

I think I'm gonna order a Nichia 219 version.

Can someone describe the mode interface? Is it just a pure twisting from Off to Mode 1..2..3..etc?

Now comes the long decision between orange and white..hmm..


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## yoyoman (Mar 5, 2013)

Yes, twist on-off-on to go from L - M - H.

I have both the orange and white. The white is more like paint and is already chipping. The orange is fine. I don't have it, but the natural looks nice, too.


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## dusty99 (Mar 5, 2013)

My "natural" finish L10 is already chipping, but not much (yet). As for modes, starting on "low" or "high" will always irritate the other half of the buyers. At this point I like having memory in my 1xAA lights (like my Thrunite T10), but it shouldn't be that hard to program dual mode progressions (L-M-H & H-M-L) since Eagletac already provides two basic mode options on the clicky series (except it's Moon-low-med & Low-Med-High - you choose by tightening/loosening the head quickly three times after clicking it on).


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## gravelmonkey (Mar 6, 2013)

I've been playing around a bit with some nearly dead alkalines, just to see what the moonlight mode is like as a 'battery vampire'. It appears that the moonlight mode dims despite the fact I can bump it up to low and medium to get quite a lot more lumens. On my Olight i2, low mode only starts dimming when L,M,H modes are all similar brightness... :thinking:


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## JJohn (Mar 6, 2013)

Due to the way I use lights and night vision issues, I love L-M-H order. I thought that I would like memory in a light, but I learned that I do not. I turned off that function on my primary EDC. I would forget that last time I used it, perhaps a few days earlier, I had it on high. Then, with dark adapted eyes, I would blind myself and disturb others turning the light on in a tent, for example. I always want to start in low. 

I will try one of these L10's.


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## jcw122 (Mar 8, 2013)

Just got mine in white! I got the 4-mode version, I love it! Firefly mode is extremely dim, even more dim than the 4Sevens moonlight mode, but does still seem usable. I really like the FF-L-M-H order too. This light is surprisingly bright for just a single AA. Great light!

I love the white color, although I wish it was matte white not glossy white.

Here's a pic:


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## CarpentryHero (Mar 9, 2013)

My orange four mode with Nichia219 arrived late last week, I prefer the nuetral tint over the extra output of the xpg2


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## climberkid (Mar 9, 2013)

CarpentryHero said:


> My orange four mode with Nichia219 arrived late last week, I prefer the nuetral tint over the extra output of the xpg2



Hear! Hear!


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## Pilot (Mar 11, 2013)

Just received one of these in black due to the recommendations here. My LED is centered, and it works great. I got the four position, and glad I did. It is a keeper! I may like it better than my Quark Tactical.


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## turkeylord (Mar 11, 2013)

Still loving mine as well. Still no problems with running a 14500. I added a rubber grip off of a pen which makes it comfortable to bite and work with both hands...


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## sinnyc (Mar 11, 2013)

Love mine, too. When I get home and take off my leatherman/flashlight holster I slip this into my pocket. The tint is excellent and it's the right size - very small but not too small. The moonlight and low modes are perfect for getting around my house in the dark and checking on the little ones as they sleep while the high mode is bright enough to illuminate a small room with ceiling bounce. I've used it every day since it arrived and I have to say that, dollar for dollar, this my be the best light I've purchased.


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## Stereodude (Mar 16, 2013)

Apologies for the potentially stupid question, but is this light using the Nichia neutral white 219 LED with a CRI of 92 or just a more run of the mill 219? The product listings I've seen make no CRI or color temp claims, just that it's a Nichia 219.


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## jake25 (Mar 16, 2013)

It's a Nichia 219 4500k 92+CRI B10 bin


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## xevious (Mar 16, 2013)

jcw122 said:


> I love the white color, although I wish it was matte white not glossy white.
> 
> Here's a pic:




Hmmm... it looks matte to me here and in the OEM photos. I decided to try the L10 out with the XPG2 emitter first (it was on sale) and also ordered it in white (s/b here next week). I was really taken by the custom matte white cerakote photos floating around and started to crave it. The good thing about white is that scratches aren't as noticeable, although dark marks/stains will be evident (should have a chance of cleaning up though).


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## Stereodude (Mar 17, 2013)

jake25 said:


> It's a Nichia 219 4500k 92+CRI B10 bin


Thanks for the clarification.


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## burntoshine (Mar 17, 2013)

xevious said:


> looks matte to me here



...looks matte to me, too. I would much prefer matte white over glossy. If it is indeed glossy, I will get the orange instead.

I'm really content with my small collection of XPG high cri lights, but have been curious about the nichia 219 high cri tints from hearing so much about them on CPF. This light makes a lot of sense to me to try out at only $25.

Can any and/or several of y'all confirm whether the white is glossy or matte??

Thanks!


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## slntdth93 (Mar 17, 2013)

burntoshine said:


> ...looks matte to me, too. I would much prefer matte white over glossy. If it is indeed glossy, I will get the orange instead.
> 
> I'm really content with my small collection of XPG high cri lights, but have been curious about the nichia 219 high cri tints from hearing so much about them on CPF. This light makes a lot of sense to me to try out at only $25.
> 
> ...



It's a glossy finish


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## xevious (Mar 17, 2013)

A glossy finish can always be dulled... just a slight abrasive.


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## blackFFM (Mar 26, 2013)

turkeylord said:


> Still loving mine as well. Still no problems with running a 14500.



Do you still have all modes? Does it get significantly brighter?


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## yoyoman (Mar 26, 2013)

Yes, all modes. Yes, significantly brighter.


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## xevious (Mar 26, 2013)

I got mine, in white. The finish is glossy, but the knurling makes it look more matte (which is most of the body). The emitter is perfectly centered and the beam is smooth from spot to spill. I got the Cree XPG2 and I have to say it's a nice neutral tint with a touch of warm, especially when compared to my Fenix L0D Q5. The 3 modes are noticeably different. Nice quality light for the price. Anybody own both XPG2 and Nichia? How do they compare?

I'd been seriously considering one of the newer Peak LED Solutions lights, but I'm not all that keen on QTC (quantum tunneling composite). Seems like they've got a ways to go with increasing QTC durability and smoothness of brightness change. Frankly, I'd rather just have a few useful modes and this L10 delivers for a lot less.


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## burntoshine (Mar 27, 2013)

Thanks, slntdth93 and xevious! I'd like to get one soon. Still deciding between the orange and the white; and maybe natural..

What is the natural finish like? Any photos of different finishes together in one pic?


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## 85coke (Mar 27, 2013)

Anyone own this light and a xeno E03 with Nichia 219? Which do you prefer?


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## yoyoman (Mar 27, 2013)

I have a L10 Nichia in white, a L10 XP-G2 in orange, a Peak Eiger Nichia mule and a Peak Eiger large optic XP-G2 N. The white finish is chipping a little bit. The orange finish is fine. The XP-G2 is cooler and brighter. The Peak Eigers are from Oveready and both have QTC. I like the QTC because you can get very low. Very low. You can't repeat a setting and you need to be careful that you don't push down when you turn the head. You also need to be careful that you don't screw down too much when you want high. I haven't had a problem with the QTC and like it. The L10s are very good value. I'm running them on 14500 Li-ions. The Peaks are running on 10180 and 10440 Li-ons. The Peak Eiger Nichia mule in a small body with a 10180 is always in my pocket and is a great light. I'm getting a Peak Eiger AAA body with momentary switch without QTC for the large optic. I got it without QTC because I use the large optic on high most of the time. I also ordered an Xeno E03 with the Nichia - I like this emitter a lot because of the color rendition. It will be interesting to compare the L10 Nichia with the Xeno E03 Nichia. I'll report back when I get it.

My L10s are 3 mode and I almost wish I got the 4 mode (with moonlight) because even Low is fairly bright on the 14500 Li-ions. Just something to consider...


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## markr6 (Mar 27, 2013)

I finally purchased a 3-mode after months of trying to decide. I can't wait to finally see a Nichia 219 in action after all the positive feedback here!


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## Lithium466 (Mar 27, 2013)

85coke said:


> Anyone own this light and a xeno E03 with Nichia 219? Which do you prefer?


I Have both, and prefer the L10, mostly because of the low low (4 modes one). Xeno is bigger, clicky (I usually prefer clickies), but has no real low, which is for me a deal breaker. The Xeno has maybe a slightly better finish (the white on the L10 is very fragile, orange seems ok), we'll see in a few months !


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## yoyoman (Mar 27, 2013)

Lithium466 - I also like low low. Are you running your L10s on 14500 Li-ions?


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## Lithium466 (Mar 27, 2013)

No, only NiMh. And unfortunatly I don't have 14500, but I may try with a lab power supply to see what happened ! I'll try tonight


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## 85coke (Mar 27, 2013)

Lithium466 said:


> I Have both, and prefer the L10, mostly because of the low low (4 modes one). Xeno is bigger, clicky (I usually prefer clickies), but has no real low, which is for me a deal breaker. The Xeno has maybe a slightly better finish (the white on the L10 is very fragile, orange seems ok), we'll see in a few months !



I was impatient and ordered 3 Xenos. 2 with 219s and 1 with a neutral XM-L2. I plan to use the 219s indoors with eneloops, so the lows should be low eneough.

I already own a warm Xeno and lost a neutral version. The lack of a low mode using a 14500 is the major downfall of these lights, and I almost always find myself using eneloops.

Also, I saw some discussion about Peak QTC in this thread. I had oveready upgrade the qtc on my eiger nichia 119 and vesuvius. Both are very smooth and functional now.


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## Lithium466 (Mar 27, 2013)

yoyoman said:


> Lithium466 - I also like low low. Are you running your L10s on 14500 Li-ions?


I just checked, the moonlight mode is maybe slightly higher (very slightly !) with 14500, but you can still look direcly at the led, which is what I like for low low modes


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## yoyoman (Mar 27, 2013)

I may have to get a 4 mode L10. I thank you for your prompt answer.


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## edpmis02 (Mar 27, 2013)

Using a split ring kills the tail standing ability of the light. (I got a 4-mode, and it makes my High CRI quark look too bright).


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## Mr Floppy (Mar 27, 2013)

85coke said:


> Anyone own this light and a xeno E03 with Nichia 219? Which do you prefer?



I too have both and I prefer the L3. Lots of pros and cons of both but the size of the L3 tops it for me.


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## xevious (Mar 27, 2013)

The price on the L10 is better than the E03 on average, which is one bonus. I also just don't like the shape of the body on the E03. Sorry to hear the white coating on the L10 is sensitive to chipping. I'll have to make sure it doesn't ride alongside any metal objects when I pocket it. Probably best as a nightstand light, because white is easy to spot in very dim light. The natural finish looks terrific. I got the 3 mode because it seemed to me that the low would be enough and didn't want to deal with moonlight mode as the first mode, because in brighter light you'll be twisting at least 2-3 times instead of 1-2. But for a lower range task light, it might be better to have 4 modes with the Nichia.


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## burntoshine (Mar 28, 2013)

Just ordered an orange 4 mode! I should have it next week. So how is the quality of this light? Perhaps I'll read further back in the thread..

I've been wanting an AA light. I only have two. One's a headlamp and the other stays in my safe; so in a way, I have none. I might get a few of these for gifts if I like mine okay.


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## xevious (Mar 28, 2013)

^ The quality of the beam output is very good, nice and smooth without any rings. The threading of the head and body is very good, although it could probably use a little lube. You can still operate it one handed. The machining of the metal is excellent. I got the white glossy treatment which appears to be very good, but others say it tends to chip.

Overall, it's a very slim AA sized light, the smallest I've seen so far without the walls becoming too thin. Compared to my AAA Fenix I'd say it's very close, maybe a touch behind in quality. But then the Fenix costs quite a lot more. For $20 on the XPG2 version, you really can't go wrong. I've not yet seen any Chinese AA lights approach this kind of comprehensive quality. You could pick up one of theirs for half price, but you'll get half the quality if not less.


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## burntoshine (Mar 28, 2013)

xevious said:


> ^ The quality of the beam output is very good, nice and smooth without any rings. The threading of the head and body is very good, although it could probably use a little lube. You can still operate it one handed. The machining of the metal is excellent. I got the white glossy treatment which appears to be very good, but others say it tends to chip.
> 
> Overall, it's a very slim AA sized light, the smallest I've seen so far without the walls becoming too thin. Compared to my AAA Fenix I'd say it's very close, maybe a touch behind in quality. But then the Fenix costs quite a lot more. For $20 on the XPG2 version, you really can't go wrong. I've not yet seen any Chinese AA lights approach this kind of comprehensive quality. You could pick up one of theirs for half price, but you'll get half the quality if not less.



Right on! Thanks for your thoughts! It seems like everyone's been pleased with theirs'.

I have plenty of eneloop fuel ready to try it out. I've been regretting selling my neutral white SS Preon Revo, but this should fix that. And I will finally be able to check out this revered 219 tint.


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## Racer (Mar 28, 2013)

I started with an Orange XP-G2 4 mode, and I'm really impressed. So today I ordered a black Nichia 4 mode. The 4 mode is great with a 14500.


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## markr6 (Mar 29, 2013)

Uh oh! I didn't do my research. While looking back thru some threads I realized what this "delay" thing was all about. I really wish there was NO reset like the Olight i3s I just received. I would much rather go thru the L-M-H cycle for consistnecy every time. I'll know how it works out for me very soon...


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## markr6 (Mar 29, 2013)

Well I don't even know what to say. This Nichia 219 is just unreal. I always knew cool whites were BLUE no matter how much people want to flaunt high numbers and stats. But damn, I totally screwed myself with this one because...

*ALL I want now is NICHIA 219!! 
*
As for the L10, I'm not impressed unfortunatley.

Cons:
Cheap tinny feeling metal
Foam ring that I don't trust after much use; can peel off with no effort. This just seems rediculous on a light that must be constantly tightened and loosened to change modes.
Weak, dry threads give twist a gritty feeling (lube helped a bit)
Battery rattles a bit
Only got about 75 minutes on high running an Eneloop. Even then, the last 20-30 minutes were substantially less (estimated 60% less output measuring with iphone app - sorry that's all I have)

Pros:
Of course, an AMAZING tint
Very nice beam, especially for it's size
Lightweight
Hardly any bigger than the AA battery
Tail stands

Overall, the cons will keep me from getting 4-6 more of these or else I would stock up and have these all over the house, in car, at work, etc. Too bad 

Edit: Update after a couple days - I really want to like this light but it's just too impractical; I'm constantly grinding the threads three times to get max output. I mean the Nichia 219 doesn't give a ton of output to start with so I'm always going to the high mode. Maybe I could handle it if the operation was as smooth as something like the Olight i3, but it's not.


----------



## Racer (Apr 1, 2013)

The threads on my second unit are much better than the first unit I got. The new L10 is a gunmetal grey Nichia 4 mode, and it's a pretty sweet light, especially considering that it was only 25 bones.


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## burntoshine (Apr 1, 2013)

Racer, thanks for the pic! So that's the natural there that's gunmetal grey? It looks a bit Olive Drab to me. I had briefly considered going with that finish. I was hoping to get the 4 mode version, but someone at SB flashlights decided for me...





This sucks; renders the light less useful to me. I use sub-lumen light quite often and unfortunately my L10 will be sitting out most games. I will not be buying much more from SB.

The light is pretty decent quality for the price. There's an annoying chunk of something stuck to the inside of the lens which I think I may try to get out. But that's not a big deal. I have a HDS that cost 8 times as much and had a HUGE chunk about 8 times the size behind its lens.

The LED is mostly centered; only very-slightly off. I'm still playing around with the 219 4500k tint. Build quality is not bad.

Overall, great for $25.

SB, double check your shipments!!


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## gravelmonkey (Apr 1, 2013)

burntoshine said:


> Racer, thanks for the pic! So that's the natural there that's gunmetal grey? It looks a bit Olive Drab to me. I had briefly considered going with that finish. I was hoping to get the 4 mode version, but someone at SB flashlights decided for me...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I had a mix-up from SB Flashlights too, I think its going to be all sorted out now though which is good.

Interesting you had a fleck of glue(?) too, out of 10 lights I only had it on one.


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## Mr Floppy (Apr 1, 2013)

markr6 said:


> Cons:
> Only got about 75 minutes on high running an Eneloop. Even then, the last 20-30 minutes were substantially less (estimated 60% less output measuring with iphone app - sorry that's all I have)



It's pulling 1.9A from the battery on high. It's about right for an Eneloop. What I would be interested to know is what the LED is getting. I'm guessing that it'll be 350mA. Going by the XP-G R5 specs, 120 lumens is sort close enough for 350mA with the loss etc.


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## Racer (Apr 1, 2013)

Yep, it's the natural finish. I think my camera gave it a green tinge, it's a pure, gunmetal grey to my eyeballs. It sucks you got the wrong one. I'm sure they'll take care of you.


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## climberkid (Apr 1, 2013)

Finally was able to use the low low on a night flight. It is absolutely the most perfect level for lighting up my checklist in the back of the plane.


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## burntoshine (Apr 2, 2013)

Yeah, SB wrote me back quite quickly. I'm just not sure if I want to go through the hassle of returning it.


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## Mr Floppy (Apr 5, 2013)

I've just done some tail cap current readings for the 4 mode 219 on alkaline batteries. Fresh alkaline will pull 1.9A from the cell. Drops almost within 10 seconds below 1.9A and to a minute it is just above 1.8A. About 25 minutes later, it still manages to pull 1.5 -1.6A from an alkaline. 

It looks like this little thing does pretty well with alkalines even on the high mode. I did use a Varta industrial alkaline but they aren't that special and still sags more than NiMH.


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## bob4apple (Apr 6, 2013)

_Finally was able to use the low low on a night flight. It is absolutely the most perfect level for lighting up my checklist in the back of the plane.
_
My checklist says: Avoid sitting in the back of the plane because the restroom reeks.


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## joelbnyc (Apr 9, 2013)

Got mine today, 3 mode Nichia 219. Led is not 100% perfectly centered but it's pretty close, maybe less than a mm off.. The spot is not noticeably off center against a wall.

I'm a fan of the 219, it's my first high cri and it's like an incandescent bulb, maybe better. Using this as a tailstanding bedside light for when I'm on my tablet b4 going to sleep, and it's pleasant.

After 15 min on high it is getting rather hot though, (using Sony Cycle Energy NiMH 2100 mAh, which are supposed to be same as eneloops). This seems a bit odd.

Overall for $25 I am happy with the light, usu will have it on medium anyway, but would be nice to know that leaving it on high for the duration will not cause any damage, despite the heat.

Sent from Winterfell using a Raven


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## Mr Floppy (Apr 9, 2013)

joelbnyc said:


> After 15 min on high it is getting rather hot though, (using Sony Cycle Energy NiMH 2100 mAh, which are supposed to be same as eneloops). This seems a bit odd.



Mine gets hot on an Eneloop too but I guess it depends on what you mean by hot. I think the heat dissipation is pretty good on such a small thing with a tiny head.


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## Imon (Apr 9, 2013)

joelbnyc said:


> ...
> I'm a fan of the 219, it's my first high cri and it's like an incandescent bulb, maybe better. Using this as a tailstanding bedside light for when I'm on my tablet b4 going to sleep, and it's pleasant.
> ...



That's interesting. 

One reason the 219 is so popular on CPF is because it's unlike an incandescent. Of all high CRI LEDs out there the 219 has the coolest CCT and is most like daylight.


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## joelbnyc (Apr 10, 2013)

Mr Floppy said:


> Mine gets hot on an Eneloop too but I guess it depends on what you mean by hot. I think the heat dissipation is pretty good on such a small thing with a tiny head.



Would an eneloop heat up more than an alkaline, due to the same amt of current at a lower voltage or something?

I'm just going by the only other 1xAA light I've owned which was a 4sevens Mini MA which I could leave on high for an hour with an alkaline and it didn't get anywhere near this hot.

Can't test the mini w/ a NiMH tho bec I gave it to my Dad...

Sent from Winterfell using a Raven


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## Photon (Apr 16, 2013)

Woo-hoo! I just got a 4-mode, Nichia 219 today. Outstanding little light.

All the features I've been looking for:


Current regulated -- no PWM.
Lighting Sequence: LL-L-M-H
Ideal Moonlight low-low.
No memory. Always comes on in Moonlight.
Well spaced output levels.
Excellent tint.
Excellent price.

The only other lights that met my most important features are the Foursevens Quarks, and the sadly defunct Preon Revo. Between the lower cost and smaller form factor, I think this little light beats the Quarks.

Tip 'o the hat to Sanjin at SBFlashlights. He quickly emailed about the unavailability of the first color choice. I thought "Hey, with all those features, I really don't care about the body color at all!" I wound up with Natural, which I think I like better than the original black. It is reminiscent of the first Arc AAA's for those who remember.

There is no issue with the LED being off-center. 

When I first saw a post for the light (on CPF Marketplace I think), it said something like "...Battery: AA Alkaline or NiMh". I misread it and thought it was a AAA battery, which I prefer because of the smaller form factor. After ordering, I was somewhat disappointed when I reread it and saw it was really a AA battery. But now that I see how nice it is, and the form factor for a AA is about as small as you can get, I may change my preferences.

Now, when will they make a AAA version?


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## Mr Floppy (Apr 16, 2013)

joelbnyc said:


> Would an eneloop heat up more than an alkaline, due to the same amt of current at a lower voltage or something?



I don't really know. I've only run an alkaline in this thing for a max of 10 minutes. It did get hot but without a thermometer, I can't tell if it was hotter or not. There is a big difference in current draw after 5 minutes at the tail but what the difference to the LED is would only be a guess. Still, after driver loss etc, I don't think it would be that much unless the driver is the source of the heat

When I did the measurements, I wrapped rubber bands around the battery and head so it was tubeless and the head got pretty warm. The fact that when I run it in the tube and tube gets warm as well suggests very good heat sinking.


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## markr6 (Apr 17, 2013)

Mr Floppy said:


> When I did the measurements, I wrapped rubber bands around the battery and head so it was tubeless and the head got pretty warm. The fact that when I run it in the tube and tube gets warm as well suggests very good heat sinking.



I never really thought about this until last night. I pulled 4 Eneloops off the charger and they were warm but nothing out of the ordinary. I let them sit for a few minutes and put one in the L10. I immediately used it to take my dog outside. The whole body of the L10 heated up right away from the battery before I even turned it on. I'd agree with the very good heat sinking!

Even when I did a runtime test on high (75 minutes or so), the L10 didn't seem excessively hot.


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## gravelmonkey (Apr 17, 2013)

Has anyone worked out a sensible pocket clip solution yet? Or a tail-standing compatible lanyard attachment? Maybe I just need thinner cord...


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## Lithium466 (Apr 17, 2013)

Pocket clip should be available soon, if not yet available  See CPF marketplace thread.


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## markr6 (Apr 17, 2013)

gravelmonkey said:


> Has anyone worked out a sensible pocket clip solution yet? Or a tail-standing compatible lanyard attachment? Maybe I just need thinner cord...



Clips are all ready to go. I have 2 on order!

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...st-THIS-ONE!&p=4740207&viewfull=1#post4740207


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## dansciurus (Apr 17, 2013)

http://www.sbflashlights.com/Pocket-clip-for-L10-flashlight-p313.html
Here is the link for the clips guys! 
I ordered one just now


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## gravelmonkey (Apr 17, 2013)

markr6 said:


> Clips are all ready to go. I have 2 on order!
> 
> http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...st-THIS-ONE!&p=4740207&viewfull=1#post4740207



Ah haa! Spot on, thanks very much!

Now I just need to order some 1 or 2mm dyneema cord to see if I can make an acceptable lanyard!

Thanks!


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## markr6 (Apr 17, 2013)

I was a little critical at first, but I really love this light!!! I just can't get over how small and bright it is...and I'm talking about the lower output Nichia 219! I would like to see the XP-G2 in person, but I swore I would never buy another cool white.

A few more comments:

1. Just like when I had some Fenix E11's, there's a grayish or black residue on the threads. I read this was from the aluminum actually wearing. Is this a big concern regarding the life of the light? I use Super Lube on my lights and the operation seems nice and smooth.

2. The 3 mode version is definitely too bright on low for me after waking up in the dark. I tired it this morning and it still lit my room with ceiling-bounced light. I knew this before purchasing but 4 modes just seemed like too much to cycle thru to get to high. I like the 3 mode, but I may get just one 4 mode to keep on the night stand or when staying in a hotel.

3. No offense, but I think that orange color is nasty...and everyone seems to love it!! I'm really surprised by that. Are people choosing this so it's easier to find in the dark or in a pack?


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## turkeylord (Apr 18, 2013)

4 months in using a 14500 and still no issues. Carry and use it daily.


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## Bill S. (Apr 18, 2013)

How is the pocket clip attached/secured?


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## markr6 (Apr 18, 2013)

Just slips over the body. Here's what I posted in CPFMP:

Got my second L10 and two clips. FAST SHIPPING! The light looks and works perfect just like the first one I purchased.

The clip slides over a pocket very easily so you don't have to force it on like some I've tired. But the attachment to the flashlight itself is pretty weak and I actually pushed the L10 right thru when pushing it into my pocket. This is hard to avoid without having a decicated groove in the flashlight body. I will try to squeezing the clip to bend the metal and make a tighter fit.

I purchased the clips to simply serve as an anti-roll device, so I'm happy! They're small and hardly add any bulk to the light which is great.







Edit: I just noticed this clip looks just like the one in one of selfbuilt's reviews (Titanium Innovations Illuminati)


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## low (Apr 20, 2013)

I got 2 orange one's (4 mode) and for someone that hates twistys I love these! The tint just rocks, like someone else said the modes are very well spaced and with a very smooth twist. A happy camper indeed, just ordered 2 more with clips for gifts.


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## bkb (Apr 21, 2013)

I got two l10s about a month ago after reading about them on this forum ( been buying a lot of flashlights lately because of this forum). One is an xpg2 in green and the other a Nichia 219 in orange, wanted to see the difference between the two. I have to say the 219 does put out a much more pleasent light when walking around the house at night. Iuse the Xpg one to walk around outside because its brighter. Its my first high cri light and I'll probably be buying more CRIs to try out.


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## amanichen (Apr 23, 2013)

I keep hearing about "battery crushing" and a "foam pad" ...does this light actually crush or do the contacts have some spring to them?

I haven't been able to find any photos of inside the head or tail.


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## turkeylord (Apr 23, 2013)

There is no spring, the foam donut is to separate the +contact on the battery from the contact on the driver when you unscrew the head.

I've been using my L10 for 4 1/2 months now and I've never "crushed" a battery.

I don't mean to stir the pot here, but I don't think anyone ever has. I'm not sure it would be possible to cause any real damage to a cell unless you're a complete oaf and tighten the head to a setting of "gorilla". You're more likely to damage the driver board IMO. I think people that worry about such things are wasting their time. 

The head contact is simply a PCB with a big pad exposed and foam donut. The tail contact is just a small post machined into the bottom of the tube that is very similar to the positive bump on a AA.


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## gravelmonkey (Apr 23, 2013)

amanichen said:


> I keep hearing about "battery crushing" and a "foam pad" ...does this light actually crush or do the contacts have some spring to them?
> 
> I haven't been able to find any photos of inside the head or tail.








[/URL][/IMG]









turkeylord said:


> .... I don't think anyone ever has. I'm not sure it would be possible to cause any real damage to a cell unless you're a complete oaf and tighten the head to a setting of "gorilla"...



I've managed to put a tiny dent into the -'ve end of a battery, its probably just aesthetic though. (And it _might_ have been a little bit deliberate to see how gorilla proof it was before giving any as gifts...)


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## amanichen (Apr 23, 2013)

Cool, thanks for the info guys!


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## markr6 (Apr 23, 2013)

After getting into 18650 batteries and lights my Eneloops went into storage. I still have some AA lights including two L10s but hate having this huge pile of unused batteries. Now I just ordered my first 14500!  I'll probably still run Eneloops in these L10s, but I'm interested to see the increase in output just for fun.


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## janko.hrasko (Apr 24, 2013)

this will probably my new edc for keys, in orange with 219 -I don't have this hicri sweet emitter yet
firefly mode would be useful for dark adapted eyes I guess and I carry some other lights outdoors with me most of the time (sc52)


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## markr6 (Apr 26, 2013)

I got my Zebralight 14500, but realized it won't work in the L10 due to its flat top. OOPS!

Not a complete waste though; I mostly planned on using it in the SC52w when I comes out.


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## lintonindy (Apr 26, 2013)

Just ordered two with the nichia, natural and white (For me and the wife), and two with the XP-G2 Blue and Black (again, for me and the other one for my daughter) all four will be four mode. The only other AA lights I have are a Balder HD-1 I think its called and a OSTS Thrunite T10. The Thrunite is nice but its all throw and I was looking for a light to walk the house at night. 

The firefly mode mixed with the 3 lumen low seems almost perfect. When you first wake up a .5 lumen mode is great and when you have been watching TV or reading on your tablet/phone in the dark (semi adjusted eyes) the 3 lumen mode seems ideal. I don't think I will use the higher modes much unless to find another light. LOL. Ideally, this light would be infinitely adjustable and made out of Titanium with the Nichia (I think) LED. I would pay a hundred dollars for that light. 

Those of you that have read through this ramble and have this and other AA lights I want to know if you think I have made a bad choice here or not? Time will tell I guess..........If I don't like them I can always gift them. Anyone know of a good deal on some AAs and a charger? I have some 14500s but for my wife and daughter I want to put in some Eneloops or something.


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## Photon (Apr 26, 2013)

lintonindy said:


> [...]
> The firefly mode mixed with the 3 lumen low seems almost perfect. When you first wake up a .5 lumen mode is great and when you have been watching TV or reading on your tablet/phone in the dark (semi adjusted eyes) the 3 lumen mode seems ideal. I don't think I will use the higher modes much unless to find another light. LOL. Ideally, this light would be infinitely adjustable and made out of Titanium with the Nichia (I think) LED. I would pay a hundred dollars for that light.
> 
> Those of you that have read through this ramble and have this and other AA lights I want to know if you think I have made a bad choice here or not?



I think you made an excellent choice. The vast majority of flashaholics know and appreciate the value of a nice low-low.

I agree with you about the 0.5 lumen mode for dark-adapted eyes, and the 3 lumen mode when semi-dark-adapted.

There are some Sunwayman lights that are infinitely adjustable. They too have a nice low-low. My main objection to them is that the runtimes on the lowest modes, while longer than on high mode, are nowhere near the several-day runtimes seen with current regulated lights.

I have the 4 mode light and the spacing of the intervals seems just right. To me this is absolutely the perfect light (except, perhaps, for the Titanium), but between the Firefly mode, no mode memory, Firefly > L > M > H lighting sequence, no PWM and perfect tint, no other light packs all the same features.


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## markr6 (Apr 26, 2013)

What are people using for 14500s? Any quality cells WITH button tops that DON'T completely crush the foam washer?


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## gravelmonkey (Apr 26, 2013)

markr6 said:


> What are people using for 14500s? Any quality cells WITH button tops that DON'T completely crush the foam washer?



I've been using an Intl-outdoor pair, one button top is slightly more pronounced than the other but both are the same length :shrug:. Both cells _just_ about fit in the light (length wise) but this is with the foam mostly crushed. I've been meaning to get different set to use in my Olight i2 that has physical reverse polarity protection and means only the more pronounced button fits!


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## reppans (Apr 26, 2013)

Photon said:


> I agree with you about the 0.5 lumen mode for dark-adapted eyes, and the 3 lumen mode when semi-dark-adapted.



Where are you folks getting 0.5 lms? I collect AA sub-lumen lights and my L10 N219 4 mode measures about 0.04 lms or about 1/3 my T10 which measures 0.12 lms.

I moved over to the 3 mode instead, which measures 2 lms for me.


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## lintonindy (Apr 26, 2013)

I was going off the manufacturers specs. The first one arrived today and I LOVE it! It fits my needs almost perfectly. I'm using an Eagletac cell with no problems. My worries are completely gone. I have a OSTS t10 and the low on it is slightly brighter. Maybe the low is 0.05 lumens. I don't know. Did I mention that I LOVE this light.


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## Photon (Apr 28, 2013)

reppans said:


> Where are you folks getting 0.5 lms? I collect AA sub-lumen lights and my L10 N219 4 mode measures about 0.04 lms or about 1/3 my T10 which measures 0.12 lms.


0.04 lumens is much closer to the manufacturer's spec of 0.09.

Just out of curiosity, did you also measure the other modes of the N219 4 mode?


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## MarNav1 (Apr 28, 2013)

I use a 14505 cell in mine .......


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## reppans (Apr 28, 2013)

Photon said:


> 0.04 lumens is much closer to the manufacturer's spec of 0.09.
> 
> Just out of curiosity, did you also measure the other modes of the N219 4 mode?



Post #94.

Measured my 3 mode quick and dirty:

Eneloop - 2/15/80 
14500 - 30/100/160 

(Note this on a "conservative" Eagletac/Foursevens scale - which my SC52 meters at 200)

As a low lumen/runtime fan, guess I'll be sticking to Eneloops for this one.


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## jds1 (Apr 29, 2013)

A natural four-mode version is headed my way!

Jeff


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## bansuri (Apr 30, 2013)

The L10 is such an easy choice for EDC. I've got the 4 level with a Nichia, the low level is perfect and the threads have no measurable* play which means none of the typical mode jumping that occurs on lots of twist heads. 
A little rough around the edges here and there, but at this price it's acceptable, I've seen as much on more expensive lights. 
Titanium was mentioned, off to see if this is an option or a wish!

*​probably some, but you'd need a micrometer to read it.


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## xevious (May 1, 2013)

^ There's no titanium option with the L10 that I've seen and no mention of it being a forthcoming option... but sometimes random chance can turn things around.

*Reppans*, thanks for taking those measurements. It's nice to know that with a quick battery change one can outfit the L10 for dual purposes. :thumbsup:


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## markr6 (May 2, 2013)

Of all the lights on my table, this seems to be my goto light 9/10 times. I tried taking my Xeno E03 to walk the dog last night, but it's just so darn throwy you end up with a tiny 12" wide hotspot on the ground in front of you. I can't tell you how annoying it is to have to "sweep" the walkway back and forth 100 times to keep from stepping in goose poop and whatever else is around the pond by me.

The L10 has such a perfect beam. I can just point it and illuminate everything in front of me without the usual tiny hotspot surrounded by a weak spill. I love these lights!


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## jonnyfgroove (May 3, 2013)

My L10 arrived today. Emitter is off but it doesn't matter unless you are white wall hunting. The twisty action is crappy with the foam ring/battery crusher design. Seems to have the 2 second reset time. The tint is excellent of course. The light is ok for the price I guess.:shrug:

ETA: This light falls into the "wish I'd saved that money towards something better" category for me. Not impressed.

Another EDIT 5/7: I replaced the stock foam ring with a cut to size "corn pad" and it has made a massive improvement. The action is easy and smooth, I'll be buying more of these in the future now.


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## gravelmonkey (May 4, 2013)

Knocked this together today, I'd already cut a second slot opposite the stock lanyard notch to for the lanyard to 'splay' out opposite sides and allow tail-standing. Hacksaw blade, leatherman and a clip from intl-outdoors (~$5).

I'd originally planned on drilling holes but decided that there was insufficient material at the tail, the slots seem to work okay, I'll update if it drops off or something!





Slot detail:







Still tailstands!


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## xevious (May 4, 2013)

*Forget about getting an L10 in white, unless you want a shortcut to raw aluminum*



jonnyfgroove said:


> My L10 arrived today. Emitter is off but it doesn't matter unless you are white wall hunting. The twisty action is crappy with the foam ring/battery crusher design. Seems to have the 2 second reset time. The tint is excellent of course. The light is ok for the price I guess.:shrug:
> 
> ETA: This light falls into the "wish I'd saved that money towards something better" category for me. Not impressed.


After using this light a bit more, I'm finding that I don't warm up to it as much as I did initially. I take it you bought the Nichia 219 version, seeing as you're pleased with the tint. The XP-G2 is good enough for most purposes. Frankly, the overall design is plain and uninspiring. For the discounted price it's OK and it's nice to have unusual colors available. I got mine in white, because it's very hard to find that elsewhere. Sure makes it easy to find it when nearly dark.

Anyway, this is OK for simple tasks and night wanderings around the house. But for outdoors, I'd rather bring along an RRT-01 or NovaTac for pocket sized power lighting.



By the way... the white anodizing is terrible. Not even HA-I. Looks fine when you get it, but it chips _EXTREMELY_ easily. I carried my L10 for the first time in a front pocket with some loose change in it, only for a half-day. Chipped all to hell and back. My Fenix L0D wouldn't show any blemishes with short exposure like that. So, I'm probably going to sand off the rest and keep it as raw aluminum.

Bottom line--DON'T bother with white. It's completely useless unless you plan on babying the light or you'd like a raw aluminum version after scraping the white off (see photos below).


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## janko.hrasko (May 13, 2013)

markr6 said:


> I tried taking my Xeno E03 to walk the dog last night, but it's just so darn throwy you end up with a tiny 12" wide hotspot on the ground in front of you. I can't tell you how annoying it is to have to "sweep" the walkway back and forth 100 times to keep from stepping in goose poop and whatever else is around the pond by me.



you could use some semi matte scotch tape on the glass of that xeno to diffuse the light, from the inside if you want it to last or from the outside if you want to remove it more often
or even hair spray *should* work


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## MarNav1 (May 14, 2013)

I really like mine. Run it on a 14505 3v cell and its great. I have had or owned probly 1000 lights and for the money its one of the best ......


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## sticktodrum (May 14, 2013)

I tried the Titanium Innovations 14505 3V cell in my Nichia 219, and it doesn't make full contact when fully tightened... Anyone run into that problem or have a possible fix?


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## yoyoman (May 14, 2013)

I haven't had this problem (I'm running AW 14500 Protected in mine) but you can try a washer in the bottom or a little magnetic spacer on top.

I like this light because it is good value. I have both the Nichia and XP-G2 versions and the beams are ok, the tints are what I expected and the fit and finish are reasonable. I have one white body and it is chipping. The chipping is from use and not from sitting on a shelf I use this light a lot and I don't hesitate to throw it in a pocket or knapsack and I wouldn't cry if I (or one of my kids) lost it. I have another AA Nichia 219 light on the way. I hope it inspires me because it costs a lot more.


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## gravelmonkey (May 14, 2013)

sticktodrum said:


> I tried the Titanium Innovations 14505 3V cell in my Nichia 219, and it doesn't make full contact when fully tightened... Anyone run into that problem or have a possible fix?



I sliced ~1/3 off the foam ring which made my 14500's with short button tops fit better. It does mean there is a bit of battery rattle and the light comes on easier with Eneloops though. 

For a non-destructive 'test' you could (carefully) peel the foam ring off and see if the 14505 fits.

*Edit: Maybe put some sort of insulation (electrical tape etc) on the outer ring of the head to prevent it shorting.*


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## yoyoman (May 14, 2013)

Someone in this thread suggested using a Dr. Scholl's corn pad for a thinner pad. Just cut a hole in the middle...


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## xevious (May 16, 2013)

Here's what L10 Illumination says in their L3 product description on the SB Flashlights web page.
"Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish". This is definitely not the case with white. I wonder how many other of the colors are not truly HA III (or even HA I for that matter).


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## dc38 (May 16, 2013)

xevious said:


> Here's what L10 Illumination says in their L3 product description on the SB Flashlights web page.
> "Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish". This is definitely not the case with white. I wonder how many other of the colors are not truly HA III (or even HA I for that matter).


Somebody said that white is not anodized...forgot who. But I think the other colors are anodizeable....right?


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## xevious (May 16, 2013)

I just corresponded with Jason (of SB Flashlights) and he said that he had mentioned on CPF that the white is painted on, not HA III. But, it was never updated on the product description on the website... 

I have heard in the past that black and natural are the only colors possible for true HA III, but it's possible the technology has improved to accommodate other colors without reducing to HA II. I'm hoping we can get some clarification on this.


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## Southpaw1925 (May 17, 2013)

Any chance we'll be seeing a AAA version with pocket clip?


"Fortune favors the prepared mind." -Louis Pasteur


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## Racer (May 17, 2013)

Southpaw1925 said:


> Any chance we'll be seeing a AAA version with pocket clip?



+1


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## flatline (Jun 5, 2013)

Any chance of getting this light or one very similar to it (high CRI emitter, FF->L->M->H with excellent spacing, no memory, 1xAA) but with a reverse clicky in the tail?

Try as I might to get used to twisties, I just don't like them.

--flatline


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## CarpentryHero (Jun 5, 2013)

flatline said:


> Any chance of getting this light or one very similar to it (high CRI emitter, FF->L->M->H with excellent spacing, no memory, 1xAA) but with a reverse clicky in the tail?
> 
> Try as I might to get used to twisties, I just don't like them.
> 
> --flatline



Not sure about me more but edc+ from cpfmp has a few XenoCube nichia219's left. The Xeno e03 had them for awhile too, the UI might not be exactly what you want though. 

Four mode AA light with a hi cri clicky and no memory, limits your options. You may need to get a light modded. VinhNyugen might be able to help you out.


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## parametrek (Jun 15, 2013)

I've been searching for a reasonably priced Nichia 219 light to add to my index of flashlights. The L10 looks to be the one! However after much googling I can not find a website for L3. (I don't think these guys are it.)

My only requirement for listing a flashlight is that somewhere there is an official product page to source information from. I'll probably loosen my requirements and link to this thread instead but something more authoritative would be nice.

Does L3 Illumination have a website with a product listing?


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## dansciurus (Jun 15, 2013)

Pretty sure the only place to buy L3 is on sbflashlights.com 
IRC, I think that they are also the manufacturer? Not sure though.
But yeah thats the only place you can get l3 illumination lights. I think it might be a sub-branding of solarforce or something like that.


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## Larbo (Jun 15, 2013)

I have 4 of these now, 2 black a natural and an orange, going to try a 14500 and a 3v 14505. A aaa version would be nice...perhaps a clicky??


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## PCC (Jun 15, 2013)

dansciurus said:


> Pretty sure the only place to buy L3 is on sbflashlights.com
> IRC, I think that they are also the manufacturer? Not sure though.
> But yeah thats the only place you can get l3 illumination lights. I think it might be a sub-branding of solarforce or something like that.


I'm pretty sure that SBFlashLights.com is not the manufacturer, though, I'm pretty sure they're the exclusive distributors.


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## CarpentryHero (Jun 16, 2013)

Supbeam is the primary manufacturer, sbflashlights is ordering custom runs. I don't think you can get a nichia219 from supbeam directly. 

http://www.supbeam.com/en/120lums-cree-xp-g-led-l10#.Ub3ROqa9LCQ

They are a recognized manufacturer on cpfmp. 
They only offer it in xpg on there page


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## markr6 (Jul 1, 2013)

Dammit! I finally lost a flashlight and it was one of my L10's. I just moved into a new home so it's a mess of boxes, but I'm still surprised it's missing since I keep all my lights in one box. I'm sure it will turn up but don't know where to start looking. Another reason to be thankful for the relatively low price!


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## grev (Jul 3, 2013)

Deciding between this and the Xeno for the Nichia 219... leaning towards the Xeno unless you guys can persuade me!


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## markr6 (Jul 3, 2013)

grev said:


> Deciding between this and the Xeno for the Nichia 219... leaning towards the Xeno unless you guys can persuade me!



Here's some info to chew on; not necesarily pros or cons:

*L10*
Smaller, especially when carrying in a pocket
Nicer beam IMO (a bit more flood but still useable throw)
Available clip for about $2, but comes off easily. More of an anti-roll device for me.
Can use 14500, but get's hot and many don't fit well. Needs to be a button top.
Many people don't like twisty heads; very annoying if you use high mode alot.

*Xeno E03*
Sturdier but much larger
Beam has more throw
Better 14500 support and fit, but all three modes are close in output. Definitely lose a useable low mode.
Reverse clicky, hidden strobe (3 fast clicks while on)

Overall, I think the L10 wins due to the small size and price


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## yoyoman (Jul 3, 2013)

I have both lights and mainly agree with markr6's comments. The L10 is smaller and, IMO, has a better beam. I use 14500 Li-ions in my L10 and, while it does get hot on H, it is fine on L and M. Not all 14500 Li-ions are a perfect fit in the L10. If you use a 14500 Li-ion in the Xeno E03 you basically lose the modes, which is a deal breaker for me. I run my E03 on Eneloops. I'm also not crazy about the reverse clicky and mode sequence on the E03.

The only other thing I would add about the L10 is don't get the white. It is painted and not anodized. The white paint chips easily. The other colors are anodized and are fine.


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## figuy (Aug 8, 2013)

I don't recall seeing any post on actual run time so I tested my XPG2 with a 2500 mAh Energizer (Sorry I don't have any eneloops). Mine ran for a bit over 3 hours


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## yoyoman (Aug 8, 2013)

^ What mode?


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## psychbeat (Aug 21, 2013)

I'm a little disappointed with my DQG tiny 18650 and would love to see an 18650 version of the L10 

I bought 3mode for a gift & a 4mode for me. 
Not really using the firefly personally - probably stick to the 3 mode if I buy any more. 

Has anyone tested the water resistance?


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## reppans (Aug 22, 2013)

figuy said:


> I don't recall seeing any post on actual run time so I tested my XPG2 with a 2500 mAh Energizer (Sorry I don't have any eneloops). Mine ran for a bit over 3 hours



I ran a side-by-side test on low with a FourSevens Mini AA HCRI, since they both measured about 2.5 lms.... the L10 N219 flat out doubled the Mini - I think it was something like 48 hrs to 22 hrs. Current controlled vs fast PWM?


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## turkeylord (Aug 27, 2013)

turkeylord said:


> 4 months in using a 14500 and still no issues. Carry and use it daily.


Just wanted to add a quick update - I did notice recently that the light no longer functions on an alkaline AA. Could be related to the months and months of 14500 use, or the drop onto concrete it got a couple weeks ago. Not terribly surprising, and no fault of the light itself obviously.

Still works perfect on 14500.


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## gravelmonkey (Aug 27, 2013)

turkeylord said:


> Just wanted to add a quick update - I did notice recently that the light no longer functions on an alkaline AA. Could be related to the months and months of 14500 use, or the drop onto concrete it got a couple weeks ago. Not terribly surprising, and no fault of the light itself obviously.
> 
> Still works perfect on 14500.



How are NiMh AA's? Is it a length thing?


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## turkeylord (Aug 28, 2013)

gravelmonkey said:


> How are NiMh AA's? Is it a length thing?


I tried that too, no go. Maybe the boost section of the driver is fried.


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## thedoc007 (Aug 29, 2013)

xevious said:


> Here's what L10 Illumination says in their L3 product description on the SB Flashlights web page.
> "Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish". This is definitely not the case with white. I wonder how many other of the colors are not truly HA III (or even HA I for that matter).



Direct from sbflashlights.com:

"White color L10 is not anodized, rather it is painted on. Underneath the coating is a silver color Type III HA anodization."


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## BigBluefish (Aug 31, 2013)

I recently bought a Nailbender drop-in with this emitter and like it so much, I just ordered two of the L10s with the Nichia 219, one 3 mode and one 4 mode.


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## markr6 (Sep 6, 2013)

FYI, I was walking the dog last night with my L10. He saw something, ran after it and jerked the leash knocking the light out of my other hand. The L10 hit the sidewalk HARD! This scared me because it turned off, but I turned it back on and it's just fine. More surprising is the finish - just a very tiny nick or two on the bottom end! Love these things!


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## yoyoman (Sep 6, 2013)

^ I bet you don't have a white one. I have a white one, never dropped it and it has a lot of chips.

None-the-less, I like this light a lot. Really nice beam, wonderful tint from the Nichia 219 and a good value.


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## turkeylord (Sep 6, 2013)

I've been carrying mine like this for about a week or so, liking it...


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## markr6 (Sep 6, 2013)

yoyoman said:


> ^ I bet you don't have a white one.QUOTE]
> 
> LOL I knew I would get that repsonse! No, mine is black.


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## Starik1 (Sep 6, 2013)

Does anyone have a white one that has taken a lot of wear and tear? I'd like to see a picture of a really chipped/scratched one.


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## wjv (Sep 13, 2013)

Got mine today.

*Pros:*
Nice Nice Nice Tint!
Did I mention the tint is NICE! NO hint of green, purple, blue or yellow. Just natural!
Candle stands
Well built
Very centered LED

*Cons:*
They sent me a black one even though I ordered a neutral one
The clip I ordered is worthless
5 second reset

I ordered the 4-mode as I do not have any sub-lumen lights. I had a sub-lumen one at one time (SC52w) but sent it back because of the horrible tint.

At first I thought the 0.09L would be worthless. But now that it is dark out, I really can navigate the house with it set on super low. Tonight I will try it as a night light and see how that works. . .

It's a nice little pocket/backup light. . .


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## Bronco (Sep 15, 2013)

I'm starting to see posts indicating that the clip sold for this light is worthless. That's a little concerning to me since I recently ordered two of them. 

Anyway, my question is, are they worthless because the clip comes off the body of the light too easily, or does the actual clip portion bend and/or deform too easily when you have the light clipped to something?


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## wjv (Sep 15, 2013)

Bronco said:


> Anyway, my question is, are they worthless because the clip comes off the body of the light too easily, or does the actual clip portion bend and/or deform too easily when you have the light clipped to something?



Yes & Yes

And when I squeezed the clamp to make it tighter, and put it back on, it scratched the finish


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## Bronco (Sep 16, 2013)

wjv said:


> Yes & Yes
> 
> And when I squeezed the clamp to make it tighter, and put it back on, it scratched the finish



Ah, wonderful. A double dose of good news. 

Had it only been that the clip pops off too easily, I was going to consider a more permanent attachment solution - like maybe experimenting with a little two part epoxy. But if the clip itself is weak and prone to bending, then there wouldn't be much point in that.


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## markr6 (Sep 16, 2013)

Yes the clip is pretty weak and can bend but it's OK for me. But of course more importantly, you can lose this thing very easy. Clipped in a pocket, it will just fall into your pocket but that's still annoying. They're cheap, so I just use them for an anti-roll device. I would like to figure out a nice clean way to attach it though - no tape, rubber, zipties, etc. that look like crap. The epoxy idea could be something to try.


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## Mr. Shawn (Sep 16, 2013)

I installed the clip from a Streamlight Stylus Pro on my ThruNite T10, which is about the same diameter as the L10. I had to stretch the clip to get it on the T10, but it's secure, so I would think the clip would also fit the L10 with a little stretching. It's a stout, low-profile clip, which I've also installed on a Fenix E01 and ThruNite T1.


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## stevieo (Sep 16, 2013)

the L10 clips are pretty cheesy. I use a clip from a streamlight protec ems on one of my L10's. it holds tight & is a double clip -- head down in pocket or clipped to a ball cap bill. I took the clip off the protec ems & gave the light away but I ended up with a great clip. Maybe streamlight will sell just the clip.


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## yoyoman (Sep 17, 2013)

I use the clip from the Streamlight Stylus Pro on my Peak Eiger AAA body and it is great. I know you can buy the clip as a spare part from the bright guy. May have to pick some more of these clips for other lights.


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## turkeylord (Sep 17, 2013)

I wonder if you could make a clip that mounts on the butt of the L10. Shaped sort of like a washer, and then use a roll pin in the keyring hole to secure it...


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## doctordun (Oct 19, 2013)

Just ordered a natural 4 mode. It will be my first CRI. I've got a clicky on order from HDS as well.
I hope my order doesn't get mixed up as it has with some on this thread. It would be disappointing to have to send it back.
I am excited about the Nichia 219. I've heard great things about it.


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## Mr Floppy (Oct 20, 2013)

Here's another option for a clip. If anyone has one of those clips for the Zebralight H501w, it fits this light perfectly. Ok, it is a bit bigger and stranger than most clips but it securely clips on the peak of a baseball cap and instant head lamp.


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## doctordun (Oct 23, 2013)

Just got my natural 4 mode with a clip today.
I am impressed with the quality of the light and the Nichia 219.
The clip is not robust, but it keeps my light in my shirt pocket just fine.
I love the four modes. This is my first Hi CRI and my first light with a moonlight mode.
I am happy.


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## Photon (Oct 23, 2013)

doctordun said:


> ... This is my first Hi CRI and my first light with a moonlight mode.
> I am happy.



doctordun, 

I share your sentiments about this light.

Many flashaholics appreciate the importance of a moonlight mode. That and the LL > L > M > H lighting sequence are at the top of my desired features list.

And no PWM for the low modes makes this the perfect ECD for me.

Enjoy!


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## reppans (Oct 23, 2013)

I'm just curious, what do you folks use your L10 N219 moonlight mode for, and what percentage of runtime does that represent? 

Don't get me wrong, I love and collect moonlight mode lights but the L10 N219s is lowest I have, and for me, really only useful for the middle of the night bathroom run.


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## gravelmonkey (Oct 23, 2013)

reppans said:


> I'm just curious, what do you folks use your L10 N219 moonlight mode for, and what percentage of runtime does that represent?
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I love and collect moonlight mode lights but the L10 N219s is lowest I have, and for me, really only useful for the middle of the night bathroom run.



:laughing: Hang on, you're saying it's .... TOO LOW?! Of all the hardcore moonlight mode enthusiasts! 

On a serious note, in order of use is probably L>LL=M>H. Mine is a bed-side table light that doubles as back-up/AA holder when camping so the LL mode is only used briefly for bathroom trips or trying to find something with night adapted eyes/without waking others up whereas the L is used for much more general tasks. Although it's a highly specialised mode, I wouldn't want it any brighter, I find my ZL H51c moonlight to be too bright. That said, I do have reasonably young eyes, which might account for something.

On a related note, for people who don't have this light and are trying to get their head around how low this mode is- Comparing it to moonlight (clear night, full moon) shining through the window onto a whitewall, at ~1m the patch of moonlight and the hotspot were (to my eyes) the same brightness.


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## Photon (Oct 23, 2013)

reppans said:


> I'm just curious, what do you folks use your L10 N219 moonlight mode for, and what percentage of runtime does that represent?


If my eyes are dark-adapted and I need to read something or see something up close, moonlight mode is essential.

I don't often use it, but bright lights with dark-adapted eyes actually hurts my eyes. For that reason both the moonlight mode *and * the lighting sequence are of great importance. I do not mind at all cycling through low modes to get to a higher mode when needed.


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## psychbeat (Oct 24, 2013)

I rarely use the moonlight mode - I'm glad I have it for emergencies etc

I've given a couple of the 3modes as gifts - much better for non-flashaholics 

I'm still hoping for an 18650 version. ...


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## Starik1 (Oct 24, 2013)

psychbeat said:


> I rarely use the moonlight mode - I'm glad I have it for emergencies etc
> 
> I've given a couple of the 3modes as gifts - much better for non-flashaholics
> 
> I'm still hoping for an 18650 version. ...


I have 2 of these lights. I originally got the 4-mode, but I found it was annoying to have to make that extra twist every time to get to my most used modes - low and medium. I'm still glad I have a moonlight 219 light around though. I agree the 3 modes make great gifts.


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## sinnyc (Oct 24, 2013)

reppans said:


> I'm just curious, what do you folks use your L10 N219 moonlight mode for, and what percentage of runtime does that represent?
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I love and collect moonlight mode lights but the L10 N219s is lowest I have, and for me, really only useful for the middle of the night bathroom run.



I use mine almost every night. It allows me to check on my 18 month old without disturbing his sleep or ruining my night vision. I also use it to navigate around my bedroom on the nights my wife goes to sleep before I do. Moonlight, Low low modes, and low modes in general are so useful. I love 'em.

- Tim


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## doctordun (Oct 24, 2013)

The twisting doesn't bother me at all. What I mostly in awe of is the High CRI. 
I've stopped lusting after more lumens. 
I suppose I am becoming a tint/HCRIi nut. I don't need a spotlight for EDC. I like something to help me see better.
I also do a lot of grilling and sometimes in the dark. This light will be very nice to have.


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## reppans (Oct 24, 2013)

Thanks for the comments guys, I really appreciated it. Once again, I'm huge sub-lumen mode nut and almost exclusively buy lights with it. Having use them for years now, I've personally grown to love "bright" sub-lumen modes of 0.3 lms and perhaps up to 0.5 lms if I could find a AA light with it (forget manufacture specs, most tend to be very inaccurate with LLs). I find the L10 N219 LL to be just too low (I measure at 0.02 lms) and it became an annoyance to cycle through and so I moved to the 3 mode N219 now. 

I see most of you consider this L10 LL to be an infrequently used "specially mode" (as Gravelmonkey has aptly named), and I completely understand why. My sub-lumen spin is a bit different - a 0.3 lumen mode is bright enough to be considered my general use "low" mode followed by a 3 lumen "medium" which I would guess are used about equally or 40/40% with various higher modes making up the last 20%. Camping, with less artificial light around, and more continuous use, my 0.3/3 ratio goes up to 60/30%. With out much trouble, I could happily only use 0.3 around the campsite, assuming I'm not hiking - can't with the L10's 0.02 lm though.

For me, 0.3 is bright enough to comfortably read a novel (ideal reading illumination IMHO - can you guys comfortably/continuously read with the L10 219 LL?) and therefore is also enough to perform just about all my close task work. For me it boils down to this - during the waking dark hours (dusk through midnight) I can really only attain/maintain partial dark adaptation - I'm always doing something with artificial light around - room lighting, TV/web surfing, driving, campfire, etc. and so for those moments in between I need to use my lights, I just don't have enough dark adaptation to make 0.02 lms useful as an extended use mode, other than for the simplest indoor navigation.

However, during the sleeping dark hours (midnight to dawn), when we do attain full dark adaptation, I do agree that 0.3 lms is searingly painful, and 0.02 is perfect... but how much do we really use our lights during these hours? For the few minutes I need a light for a bathroom run, glass of water etc, I'd rather just use a too-bright 0.3 mode and just bounce or muffle the bezel in my fist, than have to constantly step-up to a 3 lm mode for general camp chores.

What do I get by using 0.3 lumens as my general use low mode as often as possible? About 150 hrs more runtime than my 3 lm mode per AA, something I find exceptionally important as a camper.... btw, did I mention I hate charging/changing/carrying batteries?



gravelmonkey said:


> ..On a related note, for people who don't have this light and are trying to get their head around how low this mode is- Comparing it to moonlight (clear night, full moon) shining through the window onto a whitewall, at ~1m the patch of moonlight and the hotspot were (to my eyes) the same brightness.



BTW, I think this description is actually quite accurate and in comparison, would say that the spill of a 0.3 lumen mode is the equivalent of moonlight (or the L10 hotspot). For those that are interested HERE is a side-by-side comparison of some popular sub-lumen lights and their listed spec vs my meter reading.


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## doctordun (Oct 24, 2013)

reppans........May I ask what meter you are using? My understanding of this subject was that it required an integrating sphere to get accurate readings, but my information is most probably lacking.
I have thought about getting a meter myself, but was deterred by pricing.

I have found that in my home with near total darkness the moonlight on the 4 mode is just fine. If there is a lot of ambient light, not so much.


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## reppans (Oct 24, 2013)

I use a DSLR and ambient bounce approach (except for <0.2 sub-lumen levels). My set-up/technique is admittedly not the finest nor most granular in the higher lumen ranges, but I'm quite confident with it in the lower-lumen, sub-lumen ranges (all I really care about anyways). Also, that's where the side-by-side photo comes in.... 1) let the reader see relative differences with his own eyes and 2) perhaps I have extreme sample variations that you don't (Selfbuilt and I have both run into this with the Olight S15). For the record, I also calibrate my light meter (DSLR) using a lumen scale ~ 25% more conservative than Selfbuilt since that happens to match most of my light collection (I later found out that this scale closely matches Ti-force's scale, and he does claim lumen accuracy and calibration consistent with a professional laboratory).


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## melty (Oct 25, 2013)

reppans said:


> I use a DSLR and ambient bounce approach (except for <0.2 sub-lumen levels). My set-up/technique is admittedly not the finest nor most granular in the higher lumen ranges, but I'm quite confident with it in the lower-lumen, sub-lumen ranges (all I really care about anyways). Also, that's where the side-by-side photo comes in.... 1) let the reader see relative differences with his own eyes and 2) perhaps I have extreme sample variations that you don't (Selfbuilt and I have both run into this with the Olight S15). For the record, I also calibrate my light meter (DSLR) using a lumen scale ~ 25% more conservative than Selfbuilt since that happens to match most of my light collection (I later found out that this scale closely matches Ti-force's scale, and he does claim lumen accuracy and calibration consistent with a professional laboratory).



I'm curious about the 0.06Lm reading for the SC52 in your test. L2 has three different levels (0.34Lm, 0.06Lm, and 0.01Lm). Are you certain you had the light set to 0.34Lm during that test? What were your measured values for the other sub-lumen levels?


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## reppans (Oct 25, 2013)

melty said:


> I'm curious about the 0.06Lm reading for the SC52 in your test. L2 has three different levels (0.34Lm, 0.06Lm, and 0.01Lm). Are you certain you had the light set to 0.34Lm during that test? What were your measured values for the other sub-lumen levels?



Yes, I know how to program the ZLs, I have not bothered measuring the lower two modes as they're worthless to me. In all fairness, I think we should agree that the "0.01" mode was intended only as a locator/tritium fob/GITD function, which is does quite well. A picture is worth a thousand words, HERE'S what the three modes look like in comparison to a Thrunite T10 0.09 firefly (which I consider accurate, and about the lowest I care to go with sub-lumen) and the L10 N219 (to keep this on topic). The room-lit control pix is at 0.34, and the 0.01 mode is shown tail-standing as the projection is too low for my iPhone to register. 

It is quite possible, as I alluded to above, that my SC52 is defective or just sample variation, and I have solicited others, including Selfbuilt, to submit comparisons photos of their SC52s with other sub-lumen lights in the same pix, but so far to no avail. However, I actually do believe my SC52 is normal though, due their runtime specs. The SC52 and Quark AAX both have 0.3 and 3.0 lumen modes (my most often used as mentioned above), but ZL claims 3x and 2x (respectively) the runtime/efficiency of the Quark. That runtime does make sense given their output differences CLICKY and I find the Quark lumens to be accurate (it is my primary calibration light). I find ZL to have some of the most exaggerated specs of any light I own, but all of my sample's L modes.... well, they take the cake.


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## wa4vec (Oct 26, 2013)

reppans said:


> I find the L10 N219 LL to be just too low (I measure at 0.02 lms) and it became an annoyance to cycle through and so I moved to the 3 mode N219 now.
> 
> There must be some sample variation in the L10 N219s as the one I purchased about 3 weeks ago is slightly brighter in the LL mode than is my T10 and is about the same as my TN12 in LL.


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## reppans (Oct 26, 2013)

wa4vec said:


> There must be some sample variation in the L10 N219s as the one I purchased about 3 weeks ago is slightly brighter in the LL mode than is my T10 and is about the same as my TN12 in LL.



Are you one of those folks that prefer really dim LLs? Wanna trade ?? ;-)


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## wa4vec (Oct 26, 2013)

No, I find the level on my L10 to be quite useful. I have never given much thought to less light than that -- think I will experiment with masking it to observe a really dim LL.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Oct 26, 2013)

I wonder if reppans has a 2012 edition model with 2012 in the serial number. A handful of customers have reported that their 2013 model has a firefly mode that they are more sastisfied with compared to the firefly mode of the 2012 model.

In the L3 thread at the cpf marketplace, *ToyKeeper* summarized the changes he has observed between the two models:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...st-THIS-ONE!&p=4763927&viewfull=1#post4763927

I have the orange four mode 2013 Nichia model and find the firefly mode to be about identical to the firefly mode of our Thrunite Neutron 2A with the exception that the Neutron has a brighter spill. I am satisfied with the level of brightness for the firefly mode from the 2013 model and would probably feel that anything dimmer than that would be useful in too uncommon of a situation for me.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Oct 26, 2013)

> > http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...ly-3-Lumen-Low-Try-to-resist-THIS-ONE!/page13
> >
> > *[referring to the 2012 model]*
> > I may be the only one to complain of a too-low moon mode. The problem is really only with one light - and I have seven, two XP-G and five Nichia. The problem is they vary from light to light, especially on my Nichia lights. You don't notice a difference on the other modes, but on moon, they vary by what appears to be about a factor of two between the 4 brighter Nichias, and the two XP-G's are probably 5 x brighter. My XP-G's are the early ones with the 60 lumen PWM medium mode. The really dim one appears way less than 1/4 the brightness of the next dimmest and way less than 1/10 of the XP-G lights. I find them all to be very useful moon mode levels except that really dim one, which even when waking in the middle of the night in a pitch dark room, I can't see well right in front of my feet. It really only is ideal for checking your watch at one inch in a darkened movie theater. Really, I would call it a locater glow, like on the SafeLights. It is just slightly brighter than one of those.
> ...


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## reppans (Oct 27, 2013)

Hey thanks for the link Mojave, I think mine is a 2012 and I do understand the sample variation issue. I don't have other copies of the 4 mode, but I do have multiple copies of other moonlight mode lights and the consistency between them seems quite high. Might be worth trying again, although the Thrunite firefly is still really at the line of what I consider useful.


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## Photon (Oct 28, 2013)

doctordun said:


> I've stopped lusting after more lumens.



Ah, an enlightened soul.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Nov 20, 2013)

I guess sbflashlights.com and illuminationsupply.com made an arrangement ? Illuminationsupply is now selling the L10 Nichia 219.


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## Mr Floppy (Nov 21, 2013)

MojaveMoon07 said:


> I guess sbflashlights.com and illuminationsupply.com made an arrangement ? Illuminationsupply is now selling the L10 Nichia 219.



Perhaps Jake gets the 219's from Craig. I believe they are friends, at least on the market place they are. Good partnership as far as I can see.


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## markr6 (Nov 21, 2013)

MojaveMoon07 said:


> I guess sbflashlights.com and illuminationsupply.com made an arrangement ? Illuminationsupply is now selling the L10 Nichia 219.



Hey that's good to know!

BTW, why doesn't anyone refer to these as the Supbeam L10? Even the non-Nichia 219 models? Seems like they just got lost in the mix. Maybe there was a mod over the Supbeam model I am missing.


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## selfbuilt (Nov 29, 2013)

Hi guys,

Thought you might be interested to know that I have just published a full review of the L10. Jason sent me the full set of anodizing colors, half in Nichia 219 and half in XP-G2 R5. Half of each group were the 4-level model and half were the 3-level. As a result, I have been able to do much greater sample variability testing than ever before - hopefully you will find the results interesting. :wave:

L3 Illumination L10 (XP-G2 R5 or Nichia 219, 1xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS, VIDEO+


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## yoyoman (Nov 29, 2013)

Thank you for the informative review.


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## tobrien (Nov 29, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Thought you might be interested to know that I have just published a full review of the L10. Jason sent me the full set of anodizing colors, half in Nichia 219 and half in XP-G2 R5. Half of each group were the 4-level model and half were the 3-level. As a result, I have been able to do much greater sample variability testing than ever before - hopefully you will find the results interesting. :wave:
> 
> L3 Illumination L10 (XP-G2 R5 or Nichia 219, 1xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS, VIDEO+



thank you!


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## billy_gr (Dec 15, 2013)

Does anyone knows the o-ring size used ? Mine was cut after a 2 weeks of use and i cann't locate the replacement one...


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## jonnyfgroove (Dec 15, 2013)

Just got another L3 last week during their sale at SB. Orange 4 mode 219 this time. These lights have _perfect_ level spacing, IMO. Plenty bright with an eneloop as well. :thumbsup:


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## doctordun (Dec 15, 2013)

jonnyfgroove said:


> Just got another L3 last week during their sale at SB. Orange 4 mode 219 this time. These lights have _perfect_ level spacing, IMO. Plenty bright with an eneloop as well. :thumbsup:


I picked up an extra one as well. It's a very good light at a very good price.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Dec 15, 2013)

billy_gr said:


> Does anyone knows the o-ring size used ? Mine was cut after a 2 weeks of use and i cann't locate the replacement one...



I have the same question. Upon taking delivery of it, I lubricated the threads with Superlube and have cleaned and lubricated the threads after every two to three weeks. Despite that, after about the first three weeks of daily use I saw that a chunk of the oring had been torn out of the oring. Somehow there has not been any further tearing since then. My observation is that it took at least a month of daily use before the head could be twisted on/off smoothly. I know where the spare oring is; but after the surprise of the oring being partially torn, I would like to have a few spare orings.

Furthermore, during the first two to three months the threads were darkly discolored after about two weeks of daily use following the previous thread cleaning. After about two to three months the threads are finally only lightly discolored following the previous thread cleaning. What does this mean ?

People have worried out loud about this model crushing their battery. But after daily use, I still have not seen any signs of a crushed battery.


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## markr6 (Dec 16, 2013)

MojaveMoon07 said:


> Furthermore, during the first two to three months the threads were darkly discolored after about two weeks of daily use following the previous thread cleaning. After about two to three months the threads are finally only lightly discolored following the previous thread cleaning. What does this mean ?
> 
> People have worried out loud about this model crushing their battery. But after daily use, I still have not seen any signs of a crushed battery.



Both of mine are always pretty dirty too. I was worried about the threads wearing down, but seem to be fine after ~6 months of use.

And I have no idea how people are CRUSHING batteries or why they're worried about it with a simple twist light. Twist it until the light comes on, stop. Maybe I could crush a battery with a vise and some pliers though.


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## TMedina (Dec 16, 2013)

I'm still kicking myself for missing the sale.


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## PCC (Feb 21, 2014)

My AA work EDC recently failed. That light had a pocket clip attached to it and the L10 would need a clip in order to replace it. Here's what I came up with:







The brass piece was bored out a bit and epoxy mixed with glow powder filled this in.


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## cyclesport (Feb 21, 2014)

Great mod PCC! Is the epoxy filler flat enough to still tail stand?


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## PCC (Feb 21, 2014)

Not the way it is now. It could have been had I put less epoxy in there.


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## Lucky Duck (Feb 21, 2014)

PCC, What light did the clip originally come from?


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## PCC (Feb 21, 2014)

It's actually a titanium clip that Dark Sucks sells for the Peak Eiger. I could have used the one for the Preon as well, but, this one was handy since I removed it from the T10 that died on me.


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## reppans (Feb 21, 2014)

^^ I love it... a clip worth as much as the flashlight itself


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## PCC (Feb 22, 2014)

I've gotten so used to using a clipped AA light that it was the logical thing to do.


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## turkeylord (Feb 25, 2014)

PCC, really nice work on that clip! I had thought about that location too, but I had just planned on securing the clip with a roll pin through the keychain loop. Did you have to modify the clip at all? Or just make the tail cut wider on the L10?

:twothumbs


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## markr6 (Feb 25, 2014)

Love this light. But this thing needs a once-and-for-all, sturdy built-in clip sooo bad! Well done on all the mods though. We've seen some clever ideas so far.


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## JedSmith (Feb 25, 2014)

Got my L10 Nichia 219 coming this week & I'm looking forward to getting it :thumbsup:
After reading on CPF I decided not to bother with the optional clip.

Now if they would come up with a clip attached with screws like many folding knives, that would be nice.


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## jake25 (Feb 25, 2014)

The 2xAAA Penlight will have a sturdy clip and I'll try my best to implement a sturdy clip on all future lights


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## markr6 (Feb 25, 2014)

The clips are inexpensive enough to be worthwhile as an anti-roll device at the very least. If I stand the lights up on the counter, they'll just get knocked over...roll...then hit the floor.


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## marinemaster (Feb 25, 2014)

Ordered neutral finish with 3 modes Nichia 219. Can't wait to get it.


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## TMedina (Feb 25, 2014)

JedSmith said:


> Got my L10 Nichia 219 coming this week & I'm looking forward to getting it :thumbsup:
> After reading on CPF I decided not to bother with the optional clip.
> 
> Now if they would come up with a clip attached with screws like many folding knives, that would be nice.



The pocket clip isn't especially helpful for staying clipped, but it serves its purpose as an anti-roll device, which made the extra $2 and change worth the effort.

At least for me it did.


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## PCC (Feb 25, 2014)

turkeylord said:


> PCC, really nice work on that clip! I had thought about that location too, but I had just planned on securing the clip with a roll pin through the keychain loop. Did you have to modify the clip at all? Or just make the tail cut wider on the L10?
> 
> :twothumbs


I had to remove the keychain loop and drill/tap a hole in the middle of the resulting flat area. The U shaped notch was widened to accommodate the clip. The clip itself was just unceremoniously placed on the body, the brass piece placed over it, then a set screw placed in the tapped middle hole of the brass piece though the hole in the body. I then just had to tighten the brass piece against the body. Loctite on the threads before assembly should hold it all together.


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## marinemaster (Feb 26, 2014)

Received my L10 Nichia today. This light is awesome  Really nice tint and the 3 levels are space nicely. The hotspot is perfect, LED is centered, beam is beautiful. Just awesome !!! I measured and is just about the same length as my keyring Peak Eiger. So I could use it as a keyring. Very happy with it, Nichia 219 makes all the difference. 
I am hoping is reliable in the long run.


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## Charles L. (Feb 26, 2014)

Received two L10 Nichias today: one orange and one black. LEDs are well centered if not perfectly so. The opening for the emitter at the bottom of the reflector is noticeably larger in the orange than the black -- curious. Threads are kind of rough -- will lube when I get home and see if that helps. I agree that the levels are spaced quite nicely, and the beam is stronger on alkalines than I expected. Tints are not identical -- black light is slightly cooler than orange -- but both make my Zebralight look like my dog cocked his leg on the glass.


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## JedSmith (Feb 26, 2014)

Got my Nichia orange 4 mode today. I'm very impressed with it, especially the tint. I placed an order for another one - natural color with 3 mode for more day time use. I put a short wrist strap on mine - the kind on pocket cameras & that use a strong but thin nylon loop on the end that attaches to the light. Doesn't interfere with tailstanding. If you lay the wrist strap on a table and lay the flashlight across it, it won't roll anywhere.


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## Etsu (Feb 27, 2014)

JedSmith said:


> Got my Nichia orange 4 mode today. I'm very impressed with it, especially the tint. I placed an order for another one - natural color with 3 mode for more day time use. I put a short wrist strap on mine - the kind on pocket cameras & that use a strong but thin nylon loop on the end that attaches to the light. Doesn't interfere with tailstanding. If you lay the wrist strap on a table and lay the flashlight across it, it won't roll anywhere.



I think the L10 with Nichia 219 is one of the best deals available in the flashlight market today. Small, twisty works well, fantastic tint, decent run times, and goes from moonlight to fairly bright. All for less than half the price you'd expect to pay with a similar clicky.

I do wish I got the 3-mode rather than the 4-mode. I may buy another with just 3 modes. I simply don't use it as a middle-of-the-night moonlight mode light. A clicky is easier to turn on with one hand, which means no fumbling to turn it on. So 3 modes would have made more sense for my usage... one less twist.



TMedina said:


> The pocket clip isn't especially helpful for staying clipped, but it serves its purpose as an anti-roll device, which made the extra $2 and change worth the effort.



I put a very small drop of clear glue on the body near the end of the light. Doesn't show up, but it prevents rolling. Easy to remove if you later decide to do something different.


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## markr6 (Feb 27, 2014)

Charles L. said:


> -- but both make my Zebralight look like my dog cocked his leg on the glass.



LOL!!!


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## JedSmith (Feb 27, 2014)

I'm so used to bluish tint LED lights that it was like the movie "Wizard of Oz" when the screen goes from black&white to full color, when I first turned on my L10 Nichia 219 at night.


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## TMedina (Feb 27, 2014)

Etsu said:


> I put a very small drop of clear glue on the body near the end of the light. Doesn't show up, but it prevents rolling. Easy to remove if you later decide to do something different.



Huh. Now that's a neat idea.


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## zeally (Feb 27, 2014)

Is Nichia going to release something brighter than the 219 soon?

Where can I get a 2AA or 3AA battery tube and clicky switch for this?


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## Lithium466 (Feb 27, 2014)

Nichia recently released the 219B, brighter than 219A, but questionable high CRI


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## markr6 (Feb 27, 2014)

I don't think the 219B is any brighter, just slightly more efficient. Also some reports about tint variations, but I never put much faith into this until I see it for myself.


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## Lithium466 (Feb 27, 2014)

More efficient means brighter at same current ? As far as my limited experimentations go, it appears brighter to the eye at the same current :thinking:
But I agree, there isn't much difference.


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## markr6 (Feb 27, 2014)

Lithium466 said:


> More efficient means brighter at same current ? As far as my limited experimentations go, it appears brighter to the eye at the same current :thinking:
> But I agree, there isn't much difference.



I figured it would just give a little longer runtime at same brightness. But I can't say from any experience. I would be nice to have one with the 219B and do a side-by-side test. Even if these don't get the updated 219B, I plan on purchasing more in the future.


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## Lithium466 (Feb 27, 2014)

That can be an idea... i guess i know what to do tomorrow


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## neutralwhite (Feb 27, 2014)

thanks. 



Lithium466 said:


> That can be an idea... i guess i know what to do tomorrow


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## Lithium466 (Feb 28, 2014)

So, as promised:

Here is the "original" pill with Nichia 219A on 10mm board from Illumination supply installed.




(This is one of the very first coloured L10, preordered, at the time only XP-G2 were available, end of 2012 I think) I modded it with a Nichia 219A, but the board was too thick, so the focus wasn't optimum and I wasn't able to screw the reflector retainer completely...so with this 219A vs 219B discussion, it was the time to upgrade/update/better the mod of this L10 

Now these are the original XP-G2 board that came with the L10, the 14,5mm board with the Nichia 219B, which came from a Chinese seller which name starts with a K (they are supposed to be Nichia CRI92 NVSL219B-E R85 B220, according to the seller), and the L10 driver. I took the opportunity to replace the wire too...mmm, I should really buy some thin silicone wire, mine are too thick to fit on small flashlights like that.





 

This is the original XP-G2 board with Nichia 219B on it...please note I am not a professionnal modder, I tried my best to reflow the led properly but it is not perfectly aligned. Since the contacts and the thermal pad appeared to be quite good, I let it that way :sigh:
The soldering is not perfect, my soldering iron was a bit too big for the pill, I should have soldered the wires to the led first, than to the driver 

The 219B appears to have a slightly bigger die than 219A. Since I almost destroyed the centering piece in my first attempt to mod the light with a Nichia 219A, it only covers 2 of the sides of the led. I did my best, centering is fairly good but not perfect (note the centering is better than my "stock" 219A L10) :ironic:





And now the comparative beamshots between modded 219B L10 and stock 219A L10: (both on freshly charged gen2 Eneloop, white balance set on daylight)
Sorry for the crapy beamshot that doesn't show much...it was the best I could do with my crappy camera.




disappointing isn't it? 219B on the left...to my eye the hotspot appears bigger and a bit brighter, but with a yellowish corona, whereas the 219A has a tighter hotspot with the lovely tint we all like 
Note this may be due to the fact I focused a bit differently the 219B, I did my best to center it and what remains of the centering piece is thinner than the stock one. Nichia 219A is also a bit off center on the stock 219A L10.

To conclude, I prefer the 219A tint in these L3 illumination L10. I am a bit disappointed because the 219B tint appeared very nice on my test bench! Maybe the way I focused it isn't perfectly suitable for the L10 reflector, don't know. The power difference between the two is not big, not noticeable on real use, except like I said the slightly bigger hotspot. Also please note that the stock Nichia 219A L10 is one of the preordered 219A L10 when they came up, it has a shorter reset time, and also a brighter moonlight. So maybe this isn't a fair comparison? 

During my tests I also noticed the max current drawed by the L10 is higher than the max of my lab power supply (which is around 2,25A)...so in high mode the light appears to be like direct drive, current limited by what the battery can sustain? Or are my measurement wrong / my power supply too weak? Selfbuit review show perfect regulation on high...

Edit: my prefered L10 for the moment is the one I mod with an XP-E P4 high CRI led. Tight hotspot, warm tint, not very powerful but way enough for my needs


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## markr6 (Feb 28, 2014)

Thanks for all the effort! From the photo I wouldn't say the 218B is bad, but definitely not as nice as the 219A.


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## Lithium466 (Feb 28, 2014)

I have to agree with you 
I should try further with these 219B to be sure, but it doesn't look as promising as the 219A for the moment...


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## reppans (Feb 28, 2014)

+1 thanks for the post Lithium... the bigger die of the 219B, plus perhaps a little brighter, interests me for a mod on different light with larger reflector. I have a 219A in one now but it's a bit throwy for my tastes.


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## neutralwhite (Feb 28, 2014)

thanks so out of the A & B, which would you say is closest to pure white?.
hds have the 219B in their neutral. maybe that is saying something good?
thanks,


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## Etsu (Feb 28, 2014)

neutralwhite said:


> thanks so out of the A & B, which would you say is closest to pure white?.
> hds have the 219B in their neutral. maybe that is saying something good?
> thanks,



You can download the datasheets for the Nichia 219A and 219B and have a look at the spectrum for each. They both have a strong peak in the blue (not surprising given the source of light is a blue LED), then an approximate bell-shaped curve that peaks around the green wavelength. It's this bell-shaped curve that simulates a "white" source of light radiation such as the sun (close to bell shaped when looked at logarithmically).

The 219A curve appears to be a bit fatter, with more energy in the red, yellow, and cyan part of the spectrum. So in theory, this should result in the 219A making colors appear brighter and more saturated than the 219B. I think this explains why most people seem to like the 219A better.

But is it "whiter"? Well, neither gives a spectral match to "white" sunlight, nor any other black-body radiation source. However, IMO, the 219A looks like a closer match. Both are much better than Cree's offerings, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. Both are nice LEDs.


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## neutralwhite (Feb 28, 2014)

thanks, wonder why HDS chose the 219B over the 219A . any idea?.




markr6 said:


> Thanks for all the effort! From the photo I wouldn't say the 218B is bad, but definitely not as nice as the 219A.


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## Lithium466 (Feb 28, 2014)

He did a very limited run with 219A, but 140 lumens only, 90+ CRI. 219B were as it appears not qualified for 90+ CRI, so they used it as a "neutral" 85 CRI, and pushed them to 170 lumens...maybe the 219A was unable to produce 170 lumens within the power limit of the HDS (regarding battery life, thermal limit, etc...). Maybe also because the 219A are becomming harder to source (don't know)?


Regarding power consumption on high, can anyone measure the current in high?

And also, does anyone has problem with the lube they use? I opened (after a while, I admit) my white "stock" 219A L10 (preorderd from the very first batch of 219A too), the o-ring was dead/melted, and there was a thick yellow goo on the threads, very sticky and smelling strange. My other L10 (I got 5) don't have this problem!


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## markr6 (Feb 28, 2014)

Lithium466 said:


> And also, does anyone has problem with the lube they use? I opened (after a while, I admit) my white "stock" 219A L10 (preorderd from the very first batch of 219A too), the o-ring was dead/melted, and there was a thick yellow goo on the threads, very sticky and smelling strange. My other L10 (I got 5) don't have this problem!



I haven't had any problems. I use either NyoGel or Superlube...usually Superlube. I do find that the threads are dirty every time I clean them. I believe this is the actual metal breaking down and not outside dust/dirt getting in. So I wonder how long the light will last and operate smoothly with light-moderate use?


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## Lithium466 (Feb 28, 2014)

I believe the same thing regarding worn and threads... I have cheap lights whose threads are thin and well worn...but they still do what they have to do for the moment.
as for my white L10, bad luck maybe? It was the stock lube. I should have taken a picture


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## doctordun (Feb 28, 2014)

I use superlube on all my lights.


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## Etsu (Feb 28, 2014)

markr6 said:


> I haven't had any problems. I use either NyoGel or Superlube...usually Superlube. I do find that the threads are dirty every time I clean them. I believe this is the actual metal breaking down and not outside dust/dirt getting in. So I wonder how long the light will last and operate smoothly with light-moderate use?



I've noticed this on a lot of lights. I just assume it is small particles of the o-ring, which gets worn down with use. As long as you keep the threads lubricated, there shouldn't be so much wear on them that they break down.


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## doctordun (Feb 28, 2014)

Found this online:
Unfinished aluminium doesn’t rust but it does oxidize. This type of corrosion actually protects the metal from the elements.


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## revscott (Feb 28, 2014)

Mine is not near as smooth twisting as the 47 mini ma or olight i3s. I wondered if it had more to do with the foam piece rubbing against the battery. It's not that bad, but I wish it was smoother.

My threads get dirty quickly as well and I'm using Tri Flow Clear Synthetic Grease


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## jonnyfgroove (Mar 1, 2014)

revscott said:


> Mine is not near as smooth twisting as the 47 mini ma or olight i3s. I wondered if it had more to do with the foam piece rubbing against the battery. It's not that bad, but I wish it was smoother.
> 
> My threads get dirty quickly as well and I'm using Tri Flow Clear Synthetic Grease



I got my L10s nice and smooth by using nyogel on the threads and replacing the stock foam pad with a cut to fit Dr. Scholls "corn cushion". They are now easy to operate with one hand. The pad has to be replaced every month or two, but it's worth it IMO.


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## markr6 (Mar 1, 2014)

revscott said:


> Mine is not near as smooth twisting as the 47 mini ma or olight i3s. I wondered if it had more to do with the foam piece rubbing against the battery. It's not that bad, but I wish it was smoother.
> 
> My threads get dirty quickly as well and I'm using Tri Flow Clear Synthetic Grease



Yeah I thought the same thing. The threads on the i3s are just so huge compared to this L10, so they'll never feel the same.


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## Mr Floppy (Mar 2, 2014)

Lithium466 said:


> During my tests I also noticed the max current drawed by the L10 is higher than the max of my lab power supply (which is around 2,25A)...so in high mode the light appears to be like direct drive, current limited by what the battery can sustain? Or are my measurement wrong / my power supply too weak? Selfbuit review show perfect regulation on high...



I don't know but the battery does make a difference. When I measure mine on tailcap readings, an Eneloop could sustain 1.9A where as other NiMH could only do 1.5A - 1.6A. I need to find some Elite 1700's


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## Lithium466 (Mar 3, 2014)

I got hands on a better power supply (so it isn't the bottleneck here), set it @ 1,3V and measured my 4 working L10...

The two that came with XP-G2 draw about 1,6-1,7A in max mode (one of these has the shorter reset delay). They are both modded with XP-E P4 and Nichia 219B
One that came with Nichia 219A draws 1,45A, the other 2,20A. (these are unmodded)

There something I don't understand, or is it because of different driver revisions, etc? Or quality check ?


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## Mr Floppy (Mar 3, 2014)

Lithium466 said:


> One that came with Nichia 219A draws 1,45A, the other 2,20A. (these are unmodded)
> 
> There something I don't understand, or is it because of different driver revisions, etc? Or quality check ?



That is quite some difference. Outputs the same? What about volts?


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## psychbeat (Mar 3, 2014)

Lithium466 said:


> I got hands on a better power supply (so it isn't the bottleneck here), set it @ 1,3V and measured my 4 working L10...
> 
> The two that came with XP-G2 draw about 1,6-1,7A in max mode (one of these has the shorter reset delay). They are both modded with XP-E P4 and Nichia 219B
> One that came with Nichia 219A draws 1,45A, the other 2,20A. (these are unmodded)
> ...



It's probably just the regular variation of the VF of each emitter Id guess.


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## Lithium466 (Mar 4, 2014)

I hope you are right. Unfortunately I can't tell much about output, though I am under the impression that the one that draws the more current is also the most powerful. Maybe it is a Vf variation and it will settle down a bit after a burn in?

Moonlights mode are also a bit different, with current from 0,004 to 0,006A. Low and medium are almost the same for the four L10, but I have to double check that.

Regarding volts, what do you mean? I've set the power supply to 1,3V...I thought it was the medium voltage of a freshly charged NiMh, but under ~2A I think its voltage is a bit lower.


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## psychbeat (Mar 4, 2014)

Lithium466 said:


> I hope you are right. Unfortunately I can't tell much about output, though I am under the impression that the one that draws the more current is also the more powerful. Maybe it is a Vf variation and it will settle down a bit after a burn in?
> 
> Moonlights mode are also a bit different, with current from 0,004 to 0,006A. Low and medium are almost the same for the four L10, but I have to double check that.
> 
> Regarding volts, what do you mean? I've set the power supply to 1,3V...I thought it was the medium voltage of a freshly charged NiMh, but under ~2A I think its voltage is a bit lower.



The power supply isn't sagging under the increased draw the way a battery would so I think the variation would even out a tad.


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## Mr Floppy (Apr 17, 2014)

Back on to clips, the Fenix LD15 is quite similar, well identical really and I recall a clip for the LD15 yet can't seem to find it now. Was I mistaken?


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## BuDn3kkID (May 5, 2014)

Hi there, flashlight newb here. Anyone can suggest where i can still grab the L10 Nichia 219s?


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## sassaquin (May 5, 2014)

BuDn3kkID said:


> Hi there, flashlight newb here. Anyone can suggest where i can still grab the L10 Nichia 219s?



SBflashlights (dot) com


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## neutralwhite (May 5, 2014)

Illumination supply



BuDn3kkID said:


> Hi there, flashlight newb here. Anyone can suggest where i can still grab the L10 Nichia 219s?


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## BuDn3kkID (May 5, 2014)

Ah… appreciate the quick pointer, going with SBflashlights cos Illum-Supply is on backorder


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## markr6 (Jun 17, 2014)

My L10s are lonely...so I just ordered an L10C! Looks like a great light.


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## doctordun (Jun 17, 2014)

After several months, I still love the two I have.


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## gravelmonkey (Jun 17, 2014)

doctordun said:


> After several months, I still love the two I have.



Couldn't agree more, the novelty sometimes wears off on new lights after a few months but now mine has a decent pocket clip, it gets carried in preference to my much more expensive lights for the usual day-to-day jobs.


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## Mr Floppy (Jun 17, 2014)

markr6 said:


> My L10s are lonely...so I just ordered an L10C! Looks like a great light.



two more days! I don't know why I'm waiting. I will get it as a priority. Guess I want to see what the initial reports are like but unless there is something horribly wrong with the clicky, I can't see why this one won't make it into my possession.


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## rpm00 (Jun 17, 2014)

Oh! I didn't realize there was a clicky out! I definitely like my two L10s. I think I'll need to pick up a L10C Natural 4-mode 219.


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## CarpentryHero (Jun 17, 2014)

Clickie with thread on clip? Daaaaannnnnnng That'd be sweet for a backup. Anyone have one yet?


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## Mr Floppy (Jun 17, 2014)

CarpentryHero said:


> Clickie with thread on clip? Daaaaannnnnnng That'd be sweet for a backup. Anyone have one yet?



Expected to be in stock on the 20th of this month. For those not following the Marketplace, forward clicky, new clip design, heads can be interchanged with the twisty. Dimensions to be confirmed still.


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## dansciurus (Jan 30, 2015)




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## Lithium466 (Jan 31, 2015)

Yes, the white paint is very fragile. Mine only got bedside use, and paint is stripping like yours (maybe not so badly at the end though).


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## GordoJones88 (Jan 31, 2015)

To be fair, they give a very honest up-front warning when ordering the white model.


*Note: White model is a Type II finish meaning it is not anti-abrasive and will chip away.
Underneath the coating is a HA III silver anti-abrasive finish.*


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## gunga (Jan 31, 2015)

I don't think it's type 2 finish. It's paint. 


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


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## Lithium466 (Feb 1, 2015)

I think it is simple paint too, not type II, but the grey finish under the paint may be anodizing, don't know.

Ano usually wear, don't chip away.


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## GordoJones88 (Feb 1, 2015)

Protip: Don't order the white model.


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## psychbeat (Feb 1, 2015)

I love my chipped up white one. 
Has gray ano underneath.


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## Lithium466 (Feb 1, 2015)

Lol, love the white finish too, even if it's fragile.


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## timbo114 (Feb 1, 2015)

I purchased a white and an orange color.
Orange is perfection!
White is 100% painted - mine felt tacky when received, like that enamel paint had not fully cured yet.
It's been a year+ ... still has a slight tacky feel, but truthfully, it helps with grip.


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## Martin L (Feb 2, 2015)

I have 3 lights of the L10 4-mode 219B Nichia version in natural finish. This is my most used light for the moment and for the passed 3-4 months or so. It is my first EDC choice up to date and is always ready to help me with beautiful shining light, placed in my left front jeans pocket. I love the overall tint (spill to hotspot), the beam profile (nice big hotspot that fades away quite good into the spill), the format, the useful spacing, the perfectly weighted moon mode. The tint must be experienced IMO :naughty: There are non to very little blue-ish spill in the outer edges of the spill (I am a picky ******* ) and that is not something that I am spoiled with in this business. The tints are exactly the same on all of my samples - please learn Cree manufactures! The tint looks 4500-ish which is a good medium choice IMO.

The cons: The threads are only good on 2 of my 3 L10's. One sample has that gritty feel when you twist through the modes. Put on some lube will only help a bit... They will are share the common dirty threads due to the non anodized threads, but that is standard on all flashlights with naked aluminum threads. Clean and re-lube now and then are a must and will help to keep the threads as smooth as possible. The stock clip is not reliable, but I have made an solution to that (please see picture). The o-ring makes the twist operation hard and slow with one hand. The sharp edges around the tail is cutting into your palm. The emitters (or the reflectors) are only centered on one of the three samples.

Evolution:
I have fitted a titanium clip with threads (M2,5mm) in the tail area which makes the clip reliable and relatively sturdy. This makes the L10 easier to grab/handle and it covers the sharp edges at the tail. It can still tail stand, but will lean a few degrees. I have removed the o-ring which makes it very easy to twist and handle with one hand. The down side to that is that it is no longer 100% water prof (but I don´t need that in my environment) and it has happened that the battery and head has unscrewed itself when it is in my pocket. It has only happened a couple of times so it is worth the risk IMO. No parts has been lost. It will also help not "crushing" the battery as you will feel when the head and battery pool are connected much easier. The operation is a treat now even if it has its down sides... I should try to find a o-ring with half of that stock thickness, I guess... But it is OK, not bothering me.

I want to thank you by letting me know how to unscrew the head and by that make my two worse centered emitters get centered :twothumbs. I just grabbed the threaded part wrapped with some paper and unscrewed the head with my bare hands. It was easy. I will have to see if I need to put some locktite on the threads in the future or not. The LED itself was kind of centered but the reflector was not because of the gap between the reflector and the wall inside the lens (hard to explain). I wrapped one to two revs with tape around the outside of the reflector which make it center itself when you put back the reflector into the head again. It helped me.




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I think I have one of the best suited EDC's for my needs that come around right now. It has a great ratio of size vs runtime vs cheap price with a gorgeous tint. With some tweaks you are near the EDC heaven IMO.


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## gunga (Jul 27, 2015)

Hey folks, I have no pics at the moment, but I have found a fabulous clip for the L10 (twisty).

The clip off a Lumapower LM31 (a pretty good AA edc light itself) IS GREAT.

- Deep carry.
- Holds firm.
- Looks pretty good.
- Does not rotate/slide.
- Well priced.*

*I'm not sure Ricky sells the clip by itself. I got mine from my LM31 light.

Anyways, if you can get it, it is the BEST (available) clip for the L10. Doesn't require drilling or tapping, though it can scratch the finish like any slide on clip.


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## markr6 (Jul 27, 2015)

One thing I hate is a big beefy clip on a tiny AA light. Too bad there isn't a sleek clip included like the L11C. I only had one of those for a brief time but thought it was just fine.


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## gunga (Jul 27, 2015)

Oh right, might be too beefy for you... Not too bad...


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## markr6 (Jul 27, 2015)

gunga said:


> Oh right, might be too beefy for you... Not too bad...
> 
> View attachment 819



Yeah, that would be too much for me. On the other hand, the clip-on I got from SB flashlights is too weak. But I partially blame the light itself for that, not having a groove for the clip to sit in. But it wasn't designed for that in the fist place, so it would be nice to eventually see an *L11 *come into play...please


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## gunga (Jul 27, 2015)

I agree. A properly designed light with clip make more sense. If you can live with the appearance, this is good clip, but it is quite bulky. I previously used a modded Fenix AAA clip with a few o-rings, and it worked by was a ghetto hack solution. This is better.


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## markr6 (Jul 27, 2015)

*L11 Nichia 219C* with screw-on clip. PRETTY PLEASE!!!!


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## gunga (Sep 25, 2015)

Different light but this is the clip I'm using.


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