# New and upgraded Fraz Mechanical Smart Materials flashlights



## TheFraz (Jun 28, 2019)

Glad to be back and making a post like this finally 

My former homemade flashlight was based on a QTC design in a thread that can be found here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...C-flashlight-from-scratch-(non-battery-crush)

And then, an upgraded version of that design went on to sales in this thread: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...hts-(2nd-run-and-combo-package-now-available)

These new models below are the necessary evolution of the design described in those threads.


My original philosophy still stands as it did in that first homemade thread. I think people will always like (I know I do) a very durable, simple design that can retain the most important aspects of functionality normally brought by PCBs or electronics in modern LED flashlights. But do so without the vulnerability of the failure of these drivers. Enter QTC (and now other 'smart materials').

QTC and other compression sensitive 'electronic smart-materials' are a great and simple solution to have a variable brightness flashlight that lacks the fragility of electronic driven solutions. Adjustable brightness without solder and potting. The problem with QTC initially was that it was traditionally used in a battery-crush system, meaning it was placed directly below the battery in a flashlight, and when the light was twisted on the QTC became vulnerable to the shearing forces of this compression. 

The piston design that I used in that first thread eliminated those shearing forces and protected the QTC allowing it to last much longer than a pill simply placed below the battery. That is when I ran into other unforeseen issues.

-Complexity of the manufacture and assembly of the design
-Materials that I hated (solder and any epoxy or tape) were used
-The near impossibility of reliably subbing out parts to machine shops
-The difficulity of a layman trying to replace the QTC in a flashlight (complete dissemble was required)
-Abrasion wear in the piston system on the contact points

Problem number 3 on that list made it a necessity to explore all the other issues. I had to gain access to CNC machines to learn the most efficient manufacturing processes and design the light around those theories to make it the way I wanted. In doing so, I was able to eliminate the other design flaws listed above. The light still retains the functionality of the original QTC Qzark lights, but now the material is user-replaceable in less than 10 seconds. The design will allow us to sub parts out much easier (and make our own parts as needed). We also eliminated all epoxy and tape, getting the light one step closer to a LEGO solution as I envision.

The time taken between the last posts in that sales thread and now have been dedicated to acquiring access to CNC machines, learning how to use them, and changing the design accordingly to make it efficient as possible. Also, we wanted to finalize and put multiple models through prototyping before posting anything about them. Here are the 4 models:







The Big Nugget 18650, Big E 26350, Big Nugget 26350, and Tiny Nugget 18350. The 1st and 3rd have interchangeable battery tubes for multiple battery options. The 2nd model has the best throwing optic I've ever used with an XM-L.





Exploded view of the light components. Some of these pieces take the place of multiple ops on our old light. All machined in Arkansas.

I will be posting updates on Instagram regularly here: https://www.instagram.com/frazlabs/?hl=en

And I will update this thread regularly as well.

I am building inventory for a sales thread that I will post next. Please let me know which designs you like or if there are any changes you would like made - I can adapt much quicker with access to the machines now.

I will add much more shortly - videos and more info. I'll be back soon.

-Fraz


Update for 10/22/2020

The light design has come a long way and now looks like this:






with these internals:





(these are also outdated now...I'll have to update this again as soon as I get new pics).

Torture test of the small light on the right (TinyTank)


----------



## TheFraz (Jun 28, 2019)

Going to update this thread with new technical information as often as I can. I have a bit of a time constraint as we are machining these lights 2.5 hours away from home. Here is the first video demonstrating the QTC change out in the new light engine. I doubt many people ever attempted to change out the QTC in the old lights as it required a near complete disassemble. The new light is more like changing out the flint in a zippo...maybe a bit quicker than that.

The new light shown is a 26350 operating with a great new optic from Gaggione that I really like. Big throw for such a small light. Light measures in at less than 3".



A schematic showing the interaction between the new Engine and the Housing for the Pistons that allows us to eliminate anodizing for electrical paths and bring in a new palette of materials.


----------



## Zandar (Jun 28, 2019)

Welcome back, I was just thinking about you and your battery crush flashlights yesterday! subscribed


----------



## TheFraz (Jun 28, 2019)

Zandar said:


> Welcome back, I was just thinking about you and your battery crush flashlights yesterday! subscribed



Thankyou Zandar! Glad to be back! Hope you like this design better than the last one.

-Fraz


----------



## Zandar (Jun 28, 2019)

Definitely an upgrade, six years of evolutionary design coming together! Well however many years it really is, I'm still interested!!!


----------



## nbp (Jun 29, 2019)

Cool! Welcome back! I’ll take an 18350 in stonewash alu.


----------



## Zandar (Jun 29, 2019)

I'm partial to the 26350 size lights but open to anyone of the models really!


----------



## Eciton (Jun 29, 2019)

Never has the meme "shut up and take my money" been more appropriate. Totally in for an 18350. Great to have you back!


----------



## id30209 (Jun 29, 2019)

In for each!
Would it be possi le to order one whole flashlight (18650) and just a tube for 26350?


----------



## id30209 (Jun 29, 2019)

I hope that body-to-QTC contact area will be made of much harder material than alu...
After some time of use, smooth operation is impaired due to worn area.


----------



## mk2rocco (Jun 29, 2019)

I'm still interested! Glad to see you're back with a new design.


----------



## TheFraz (Jun 30, 2019)

Zandar said:


> Definitely an upgrade, six years of evolutionary design coming together! Well however many years it really is, I'm still interested!!!



Six, but definitely feels like 30 mentally. I think you'll like the new ones :thumbsup:

-Fraz


----------



## TheFraz (Jun 30, 2019)

nbp said:


> Cool! Welcome back! I’ll take an 18350 in stonewash alu.



Thank you, nbp! We also anodize our own stuff now, and I like the brushed/stonewashed look better than the black I've found.


----------



## TheFraz (Jun 30, 2019)

Zandar said:


> I'm partial to the 26350 size lights but open to anyone of the models really!



I really am liking the 26350s now that I've been experimenting with the batteries. More than twice the capacity (typically) of the 18350s at not much bigger footprint. They pack some serious umph.


----------



## TheFraz (Jun 30, 2019)

Eciton said:


> Never has the meme "shut up and take my money" been more appropriate. Totally in for an 18350. Great to have you back!





id30209 said:


> In for each!
> Would it be possi le to order one whole flashlight (18650) and just a tube for 26350?



Thank you , and yes, that is possible id.


----------



## TheFraz (Jun 30, 2019)

id30209 said:


> I hope that body-to-QTC contact area will be made of much harder material than alu...
> After some time of use, smooth operation is impaired due to worn area.



I'm gonna address this issue and more of the technical details of the new engine up above, but here is a pic of the old engine (the one that wore that rut on the left) vs the new engine. You can see the small piston with a flat head on the left. The new engine uses a much larger piston with a smooth radius that interacts much better with the contact on the battery tube. Have had no troubles with wear using this new system.


----------



## TheFraz (Jul 12, 2019)

A video showing the difference between a big box 1500 lumen light and the new prototype we've been developing (shown it on Instagram a couple times). Highlights the difference between a twisty when it is like a dimmer switch versus the traditional clicky PCB design that rotates between low/med/high/strobe on clicks. The clicky shown is 9.5" and a '1500' lumen light from a big box store (I'm sure you've seen it). The twisty is just under 4" and our current 18650 design.



I will update the top posts with additional engineering information about the light tonight.

-Fraz


----------



## TheFraz (Jul 23, 2019)

Drop test for the new engines... May need to edit this

https://www.instagram.com/p/B0PpJ2WAQVg/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

https://www.instagram.com/p/B0PCrJ-AF6V/


----------



## KITROBASKIN (Jul 23, 2019)

What great news to see TheFraz back in town. Used to check your website occasionally years ago to see if you were still into your flashlights. 

Are we to understand that you are capable of different body sizes and builds because of your current machining capabilities?

Definitely interested in a single 18650 flashlight. Something other than black would be excellent.

Maybe it is early to speak of emitters that you will use, but it is obvious you were using something superior to the store bought flashlight in the comparison video.

Understanding that you have always prized rugged tough torches, perhaps you might offer a lighter model that still meets your minimum standards for durability.

Wife and I with our 9 year old son live off-grid now over 6 months and counting for probably a long time and use flashlights for all lighting. Ceiling bounce with one of your flashlights would be great. Perhaps you may go with a 26650 (actually closer to 26700) sized light?

Even if you are not willing to go with a lighter build or 26650 size, I'm still a go for an 18650. I even watched your lathe videos way back when. Thanks for your return!


----------



## id30209 (Jul 23, 2019)

And i’m waiting for drop date[emoji41]


----------



## TheFraz (Jul 24, 2019)

KITROBASKIN said:


> What great news to see TheFraz back in town. Used to check your website occasionally years ago to see if you were still into your flashlights.
> 
> Are we to understand that you are capable of different body sizes and builds because of your current machining capabilities?
> 
> ...



Thank you so much KITRO . I very much appreciate you checking my website - and I hated to take it down because of lack of manufacturing processes. But if anything I am stubborn. I was getting quotes for something like $35 for retaining rings, so I had to go back to the drawing board in a big way. Now I am capable of a lot of design flexibility. A single 18650 will also work on our 26350 (my favorite) engine designs - we have different battery tube options. The emitters used are either XM-L2 or XP-L. The engine is easy to modify by design, or I can put whatever emitter you want in it. I have plans for a 26650 tube, and hope to integrate it with the other engine designs for flexibility. I really appreciate your support.

Here is a video of the new 26350 design from tonight. A new optic and a comparison of one of my favorite old lights. My best old thrower...the MRV. As I've said before, all the shorty throwers, aka the D-Mini, are awesome. This new Lumenite that we made tonight is my favorite light so far.


----------



## Obijuan Kenobe (Jul 24, 2019)

I'd love one of these. Well done sticking to it!

obi


----------



## TheFraz (Jul 28, 2019)

Obijuan Kenobe said:


> I'd love one of these. Well done sticking to it!
> 
> obi



Thank you Obi - and I appreciate it! If anything, I'm stubborn.

-Fraz


----------



## TheFraz (Jul 28, 2019)

https://www.instagram.com/p/B0cmTuOAFN6/

Some beamshot testing of the 26350 under an interstate bridge. Tested 17 lights against the new design.


----------



## Glenn7 (Jul 28, 2019)

Great to see you back buddy. Been waiting for these for years, how long do we have to wait and where's the sign up list?


----------



## TheFraz (Aug 21, 2019)

Glenn7 said:


> Great to see you back buddy. Been waiting for these for years, how long do we have to wait and where's the sign up list?



Thanks Glenn . Hopefully not long at all. I was working on material for the sales thread last night and hope to have it up tonight in the custom and modified sales section. I have a few units ready to go right now. They will be in smaller batches until I can gradually scale up manufacturing. I will update this thread again right before I publish the sales thread.

-Fraz


----------



## TheFraz (Aug 21, 2019)

Here is a beamshot comparison video of the Lumenite 26350 vs. some other pretty well known lights. I always like to use this location because I think it gives a good usable real-world feel of the lights and how they perform.


----------



## id30209 (Aug 21, 2019)

[emoji1690][emoji1690]


----------



## TheFraz (Aug 22, 2019)

Sales thread up in WTS section. Currently only have one Lumenite for sale. There will be all 4 models available shortly as we anodize and assemble them.


----------



## borealis (Aug 23, 2019)

Sooo... with no chips is this the only _variable output_ flashlight that could survive an EMP?


----------



## usdiver (Aug 23, 2019)

borealis said:


> Sooo... with no chips is this the only _variable output_ flashlight that could survive an EMP?



I do know of one other that will survive an emp attack


----------



## TheFraz (Aug 26, 2019)

borealis said:


> Sooo... with no chips is this the only _variable output_ flashlight that could survive an EMP?





usdiver said:


> I do know of one other that will survive an emp attack



This is one test I've always wanted to try. In theory it should as the body should act as a Faraday cage and the light has no PCB to fry. Where it could get interesting for any light including the hardened ones is if it were unlucky enough to take a shot from an EMP or huge sun flare with the lens facing the source. I'd like to know how the actual LED would hold up. But yes, I would think it would hold up in 99% of cases as long as you don't go around with the emitter facing the sky all the time.

-Fraz


----------



## nbp (Aug 26, 2019)

Well guys, I have the Lumenite in hand; this is a pretty nifty little light Fraz has built for us! I didn’t realize that I had the first one out in the wild, as I thought there might have been a few other Prototypes floating around. But I think you guys will be very pleased. I like the natural/clearcoat type anodizing very much. The machined flutes on the body are clean and simple but effective. I think that the finish is very good for the fact that these were more or less finished by hand in the shop. I have had the opportunity to use one of the older black 26650 lights that my buddy has. I liked that one, but this one is even better. I definitely think that the improved light engine allows for a much cleaner and more predictable ramping sequence than what was possible with the previous design, especially at low outputs. I’d be keen to grab one of the 18350 models when they’re available. It sounds like Fraz is building some more lights, but in the meantime while you guys wait if you have any specific questions from a user perspective I will do my best to answer.


----------



## Glenn7 (Aug 27, 2019)

It seems that standard 26350 batteries don't have protection, that could be a problem running down the battery too low and killing it - I see Imalent do a protected 26350, it's a bit longer tho I wonder if they fit, also with 18650/18350 batteries in the other models. 
But seems funny that you put electronics back into a non electronics light.


----------



## TheFraz (Aug 27, 2019)

Glenn7 said:


> It seems that standard 26350 batteries don't have protection, that could be a problem running down the battery too low and killing it - I see Imalent do a protected 26350, it's a bit longer tho I wonder if they fit, also with 18650/18350 batteries in the other models.
> But seems funny that you put electronics back into a non electronics light.



That is correct, there is no overdischarge protection in the light itself - and also correct that I avoided it to keep any extra electronics out of the design. So I do recommend using a protected cell or a cell with chemistry that allows safe low discharge levels (like the green 26650 used in my last light). A lot of the newer cells can handle voltages as low as 2v.

That being said, I've discharged all my li-ion cells (for the various sized lights) down to where the lights stop functioning. The battery usually stops draining at the 2.3-2.6v point which hasn't damaged any of the cells I've used.

-Fraz


----------



## KITROBASKIN (Aug 27, 2019)

usdiver said:


> I do know of one other that will survive an emp attack


Is that a demonstrated claim or forum talk? Are the first three letters of the flashlight brand HDS?


----------



## peter yetman (Aug 27, 2019)

Hi Kit.
If it is an HDS that Steve's on about, Henry himself said it will survive.
But if it happens, I think we may have more to worry about....
P


----------



## TheFraz (Aug 27, 2019)

peter yetman said:


> Hi Kit.
> If it is an HDS that Steve's on about, Henry himself said it will survive.
> But *if it happens, I think we may have more to worry about*....
> P



Very much concur


----------



## TheFraz (Aug 27, 2019)

nbp said:


> Well guys, I have the Lumenite in hand; this is a pretty nifty little light Fraz has built for us! I didn’t realize that I had the first one out in the wild, as I thought there might have been a few other Prototypes floating around. But I think you guys will be very pleased. I like the natural/clearcoat type anodizing very much. The machined flutes on the body are clean and simple but effective. I think that the finish is very good for the fact that these were more or less finished by hand in the shop. I have had the opportunity to use one of the older black 26650 lights that my buddy has. I liked that one, but this one is even better. I definitely think that the improved light engine allows for a much cleaner and more predictable ramping sequence than what was possible with the previous design, especially at low outputs. I’d be keen to grab one of the 18350 models when they’re available. It sounds like Fraz is building some more lights, but in the meantime while you guys wait if you have any specific questions from a user perspective I will do my best to answer.



Glad you got the light! Please let me know any comments you may have about the design, likes/dislikes etc. I'll be going back in next week to machine some more of these and I try to change the design a bit for the better every time I go in.

Thanks,
Fraz


----------



## nbp (Aug 27, 2019)

Is there an o-ring seal under the front window on this light? I can’t quite tell by looking.


----------



## TheFraz (Aug 27, 2019)

nbp said:


> Is there an o-ring seal under the front window on this light? I can’t quite tell by looking.



Yes, and one of the trickier parts is getting the right seals on the various optics. That is why currently I don't recommend going below bathtub level or so submersion until I can test them in a lake. Although all these early lights will certainly be fine dropping them in a creek or in a heavy storm or whatever. My ultimate goal is 50 feet.

The o-ring seal under that top optic is a seal type I've never tried before in order to make the light as small as possible. The seal is actually created on the sidewall and bottom press-fit seat of the optic instead of the top lip. This also allows the optic to perform better by having a larger topside diameter.

-Fraz


----------



## nbp (Aug 27, 2019)

Ok awesome, thanks. I think I can picture what you mean; I have seen some seals like that before where it sits on a shelf and kind of cups the edge of the optic or lens. I can see where it’s more compact than the “sandwich” style.


----------



## nbp (Aug 30, 2019)

So far the only thing I noticed that some of us nerds might fuss over is the kinda weird square beam pattern from this optic. HOWEVER, it seems to only be noticeable when wall hunting. At any distance the beam is diffused enough that it dissipates and isn’t really seen. Also, just a question: is it possible to tighten the head enough to do damage to the light engine or will the threads bottom out before you smush something? With most twisties, you stop twisting when the light turns on. With this light you keep twisting to get more light. I went until it seemed like it was getting hard to turn and wasn’t getting much brighter but didn’t want to over torque it.


----------



## gunga (Aug 30, 2019)

Heya. How stable are the low output, moonlight levels? Do they drift a lot?


----------



## id30209 (Aug 30, 2019)

gunga said:


> Heya. How stable are the low output, moonlight levels? Do they drift a lot?



I have old Fraz, 26650 tank and low levels are rock solid. I believe new engine is even better


----------



## gunga (Aug 30, 2019)

Oh. Great to hear!


----------



## nbp (Aug 30, 2019)

I agree, I feel the new design is even more stable. It ramps more smoothly and predictably, and when a given output is selected it seems to stay put.


----------



## TheFraz (Aug 30, 2019)

nbp said:


> So far the only thing I noticed that some of us nerds might fuss over is the kinda weird square beam pattern from this optic. HOWEVER, it seems to only be noticeable when wall hunting. At any distance the beam is diffused enough that it dissipates and isn’t really seen. Also, just a question: is it possible to tighten the head enough to do damage to the light engine or will the threads bottom out before you smush something? With most twisties, you stop twisting when the light turns on. With this light you keep twisting to get more light. I went until it seemed like it was getting hard to turn and wasn’t getting much brighter but didn’t want to over torque it.



Yes, one of the first things I noticed as well. The beam has a round center with squared outer spill. And this beam changes with different emitters. I am using two different optic types in the Lumenite with the throwier one giving the more squarish spill edges. And like you, I only really noticed it on the wall. You can see the squared edge on the beam in the youtube beamshot video of the light at frazlabs youtube channel. I am also working to eliminate that squared edge as much as possible - very small incremental changes of the optic seat above the emitter slightly change the pattern.

You do not have to worry about damaging the engine or smashing something through over compression. The first few prototypes I tested to failure and then changed the design to eliminate the failure point (no engineered obsolescence here). You will get an idea of when the light is at max brightness when it becomes difficult or impossible to turn. The piston will protect the QTC from too much pressure, and the internals above the piston are protected as well. The new piston also keeps the QTC more self-centering to prevent pinching on the edges.

Also, much thanks for answering all these questions about the light

-Fraz


----------



## TheFraz (Aug 30, 2019)

gunga said:


> Heya. How stable are the low output, moonlight levels? Do they drift a lot?





id30209 said:


> I have old Fraz, 26650 tank and low levels are rock solid. I believe new engine is even better





nbp said:


> I agree, I feel the new design is even more stable. It ramps more smoothly and predictably, and when a given output is selected it seems to stay put.



One of the things that drove me most crazy about the old design was the seeming unpredictability of the QTC when it became old and worn or frayed around the edges. These small worn pieces and frayed edges on the QTC could make contact prematurely with the upper piston or become sandwiched in the walls or pinched causing some strange artifacts especially at very low levels where there isn't much amperage traveling through the system. Also you couldn't get to the QTC to change it or adjust it (without some pliers and an allen wrench and about 10 min).

These problems were solved by the new engine and piston system by having better piston cavity geometry and a self-centering QTC magnet in the center of the piston. I now have some prototype lights that have a pile of worn and unrecognizable QTC remains at the center of the piston that still ramp well because they are kept away from the edge and the pinching that causes flickering. And any QTC in the new system can be adjusted, flipped, or replaced by simply tapping the engine into your hand or on a table to get at the piston.

-Fraz


----------



## nbp (Aug 30, 2019)

That is great news about the relatively “dummy proof” design. I should take mine apart to see how it goes and how simple it is. I like the idea of the easy maintenance of the QTC.


----------



## mk2rocco (Aug 30, 2019)

Have you tested a Nichia 319 with this optic? It may round out the square shaped spill.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## nbp (Aug 30, 2019)

I did the hand whack with the head to see what falls out, haha. I was very impressed to see the little brass nubbin fall out with the QTC magnetted to the backside! What a cool idea! It is super easy to put a new piece in if needed, but after a few days of a fair amount of twisting and playing I don’t see any wear on the QTC dot at all. It looks like this design allows for the pressure to just be concentrated on the QTC pill just along one axis vs tossing a piece in a battery crusher style light where it is compressed but also twisted and physically abraded. Neat!


----------



## DIWdiver (Aug 30, 2019)

TheFraz said:


> Yes, and one of the trickier parts is getting the right seals on the various optics. That is why currently I don't recommend going below bathtub level or so submersion until I can test them in a lake. Although all these early lights will certainly be fine dropping them in a creek or in a heavy storm or whatever. My ultimate goal is 50 feet.
> 
> The o-ring seal under that top optic is a seal type I've never tried before in order to make the light as small as possible. The seal is actually created on the sidewall and bottom press-fit seat of the optic instead of the top lip. This also allows the optic to perform better by having a larger topside diameter.
> 
> -Fraz



I have a pressure tank, and could test them to any depth (I tested my dive light to 500 ft) if you want to send me something to test. Maybe a handful of empty bodies?

Personally, though, I think most designs are more prone to leaking at shallow depths. High pressures, IMHO, are most useful for verifying implosion resistance. Of course there are exceptions to every rule.


----------



## TheFraz (Aug 31, 2019)

nbp said:


> I did the hand whack with the head to see what falls out, haha. I was very impressed to see the little brass nubbin fall out with the QTC magnetted to the backside! What a cool idea! It is super easy to put a new piece in if needed, but after a few days of a fair amount of twisting and playing I don’t see any wear on the QTC dot at all. It looks like this design allows for the pressure to just be concentrated on the QTC pill just along one axis vs tossing a piece in a battery crusher style light where it is compressed but also twisted and physically abraded. Neat!



Glad you liked it. That little magnetic piston seems so simple after the fact, but it took some serious head scratching to come up with that (not to mention those small pieces are my least favorite to machine).


----------



## TheFraz (Aug 31, 2019)

DIWdiver said:


> I have a pressure tank, and could test them to any depth (I tested my dive light to 500 ft) if you want to send me something to test. Maybe a handful of empty bodies?
> 
> Personally, though, I think most designs are more prone to leaking at shallow depths. High pressures, IMHO, are most useful for verifying implosion resistance. Of course there are exceptions to every rule.



That would be great! I'll definitely send you some parts to test as soon as I catch up on this waiting list for light orders.

I've always been able to test these lights well at shallow depth (by swimming with the light and twisting it under the water a lot lol), but at deeper depths I'm just typically relying on a rope and depth finder and/or measuring tape. The deeper depths are also the only way I've gotten water to get past the o-rings. I'll be very interested to see what it can hold up to under a more controlled testing environment. Much appreciated DIWdiver!

-Fraz


----------



## nbp (Sep 1, 2019)

Some fun for you guys. I was at a friend’s house out in the dark woods tonight for a bonfire so I brought my BOSS and Lumenite. As I was leaving I had to play out on their empty road along the river. The first pic is the BOSS. I think it’s set at about 1900 lms. The second is the Lumenite cranked up. The output must be within a couple hundred lms of the BOSS. BOSS clearly is more floody with the triple, and illuminates the foreground and nearby trees more. But the Lumenite is no slouch and definitely has more throw, as you can see the trees as the road curves more clearly. Not bad!

Edit: Why is there suddenly PB logos on the pix?! Grrrrr. That obscures the beamshots. 🙁


----------



## id30209 (Sep 1, 2019)

Holly .... That’s no joke for sure[emoji15]


----------



## TheFraz (Sep 2, 2019)

nbp said:


> Some fun for you guys. I was at a friend’s house out in the dark woods tonight for a bonfire so I brought my BOSS and Lumenite. As I was leaving I had to play out on their empty road along the river. The first pic is the BOSS. I think it’s set at about 1900 lms. The second is the Lumenite cranked up. The output must be within a couple hundred lms of the BOSS. BOSS clearly is more floody with the triple, and illuminates the foreground and nearby trees more. But the Lumenite is no slouch and definitely has more throw, as you can see the trees as the road curves more clearly. Not bad!
> 
> Edit: Why is there suddenly PB logos on the pix?! Grrrrr. That obscures the beamshots. 
> 
> Thanks for the beamshots nbp! :thumbsup:


----------



## TheFraz (Sep 2, 2019)

Added a video in the 2nd post showing some of the CNC ops we use to make these lights. All the components are made in Jonesboro Arkansas and assembled at our house in Little Rock, AR.

Here it is if you don't want to scroll:


----------



## TheFraz (Sep 17, 2019)

Upgraded design and some new info at the sales thread here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...-Flashlights-(formerly-QTC-Non-Battery-Crush)


----------



## Lane32x (Sep 23, 2019)

TheFraz said:


> Upgraded design and some new info at the sales thread here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...-Flashlights-(formerly-QTC-Non-Battery-Crush)



Absolutely awesome. Love the design(s). 
How much of a “hotrod” is the nugget? Have you checked temperatures at all at the head or the body?

*edit* meant to ask about the Lumenite. But the nugget looks fun too.


----------



## TheFraz (Sep 23, 2019)

Lane32x said:


> Absolutely awesome. Love the design(s).
> How much of a “hotrod” is the nugget? Have you checked temperatures at all at the head or the body?



Thank you. No, I have not checked the actual temp on the Tiny Nugget. I suspect it is somewhere in the 700 - 1000 lumen range on a fresh 18350. It seems to be a bit dimmer than the bigger lights and so far I attribute that to the battery chemistry of the 18350 batteries I've used, and the smaller/floodier optic. The Tiny Nuggets use the same emitter as the Lumenite and Big E.

All 3 lights will get quite hot if left on full bright and unattended for long periods (which I don't recommend). They will only get warm if left on high in the hand. They are all heat-sinked well with machine screws anchoring the copper MCPCB to the heat sink, and there is a little extra 'beef' in all of them because of the mechanical nature (lack of circuitry or temp cutoff modes) of the light.

That being said, the Lumenite 26350 and Tiny Nugget are very bright for their size. Especially the Lumenite 26350 - I suspect it'll do north of 1200 lumens and much more throw than my original Qzark designs.

-Fraz


----------



## Lane32x (Sep 23, 2019)

I looked at the pictures a second time and the Lumenite was definitely the one I was thinking of. 
Someone posted a pic of it over on a Mark Zuckerberg site and I can’t stop thinking about it. Ha ha.


----------



## TIP AND RING (Oct 4, 2019)

I'm looking forward to this design and it's evolution. Simple works and simple lasts. Most folks who have never machined anything, don't understand the scale of whats involved. It's time and money consuming to say the least. The devil (and profit margins) is in the details. It's not a easy road. Thanks for the time and effort.


----------



## TheFraz (Oct 4, 2019)

Lane32x said:


> I looked at the pictures a second time and the Lumenite was definitely the one I was thinking of.
> Someone posted a pic of it over on a Mark Zuckerberg site and I can’t stop thinking about it. Ha ha.



Glad it catches the eye :thumbsup:. Making more right now!


----------



## TheFraz (Oct 4, 2019)

TIP AND RING said:


> I'm looking forward to this design and it's evolution. Simple works and simple lasts. Most folks who have never machined anything, don't understand the scale of whats involved. It's time and money consuming to say the least. The devil (and profit margins) is in the details. It's not a easy road. Thanks for the time and effort.



Thank you! It's been a lot of fun/stress designing this thing. The thing I've noticed most is how hard it is to make things simple. If I come across a problem I always try to redesign rather than add a new part (a band-aid), to make sure the possible failure points stay minimal.


----------



## TIP AND RING (Oct 5, 2019)

TheFraz said:


> Thank you! It's been a lot of fun/stress designing this thing. The thing I've noticed most is how hard it is to make things simple. If I come across a problem I always try to redesign rather than add a new part (a band-aid), to make sure the possible failure points stay minimal.



“The most complicated skill is to be simple.”
― Dejan Stojanovic

:goodjob::thanks:


----------



## lion504 (Nov 10, 2019)

Will the tiny nugget run ok (maybe just lower lumens) with a CR123 in an 18 mm spacer? Thanks.


----------



## TheFraz (Nov 12, 2019)

lion504 said:


> Will the tiny nugget run ok (maybe just lower lumens) with a CR123 in an 18 mm spacer? Thanks.



Yes, it will run (at much lower lumens) with a CR123. With an SST20 and it's 3ish forward voltage it should work decently well actually....something I will try out. Probably won't even need the spacer. I'll report back when I try it out!


----------



## TheFraz (Feb 14, 2020)

Posted this in the sales thread, but figured it would be good content for here too. The new wireless design - being able to 'lego' in a new LED with no wires and minimal time, much like replacing an old incandescent bulb (not to mention the durability advantages). The pic below is shown next to a traditional wired-contact-point LED which was the old design of my smallest light. I'll post more details soon in both threads.






-Fraz


----------



## peter yetman (Feb 14, 2020)

Good thinking Batman.
P


----------



## TheFraz (Feb 14, 2020)

peter yetman said:


> Good thinking Batman.
> P



Thanks Pete! I just hope the wires aren't ra's al ghul or supes or even something more nefarious.


----------



## Bimmerboy (Feb 15, 2020)

TheFraz said:


> The new wireless design - being able to 'lego' in a new LED with no wires and minimal time, much like replacing an old incandescent bulb (not to mention the durability advantages).


Now THAT'S freakin' cool. Will the optic be just as easy to change?

With something like this, it'd be great to experiment with various emitter/optic combos.

Nice body designs too. Good looking lights.


----------



## id30209 (Feb 16, 2020)

Oh yeah...if design of optic retaining ring is changed for more user friendly tools, i could go for another one


----------



## TheFraz (Feb 17, 2020)

Bimmerboy said:


> Now THAT'S freakin' cool. Will the optic be just as easy to change?
> 
> With something like this, it'd be great to experiment with various emitter/optic combos.
> 
> Nice body designs too. Good looking lights.



Thanks . The light is machined for that particular optic (it has a very specific focal point above the LED it has to hit, so it has a self-seating shelf machined into the body of the light). Changing the LED out will be a simple process - I'll post a video of it when I get some time.



id30209 said:


> Oh yeah...if design of optic retaining ring is changed for more user friendly tools, i could go for another one



This one will be very user-friendly to access the internals of the light. No specialty tools required.


----------



## TheFraz (Mar 2, 2020)

Here are a couple pics of all the components of the new Tiny Nugget. This is definitely a breakthrough design for me (and even looks a bit weird without any wires). This light will be capable of complete disassembly with the pictured tools (pliers and an allen wrench). Most of the components are CNC machined specifically for this light. The assembly process should greatly reduce our production time and hopefully allow us to catch up on orders very soon. I've got some footage of me assembling one of these lights which I will edit and post soon.

This light is finally meeting my original vision of a 'lego-assembly' type light that maintains the brightness-variable functions of a PCB driven light. Also, the solder connection points were some of the only things I've ever been able to get to fail in torture tests. No worry about that anymore.






-Fraz


----------



## Agpp (Mar 2, 2020)

That's VERY interesting. 
I also dreamed about a flashlight that could be assembled without soldering, I really like what I see...though I don't fully understand what fits where and why.


----------



## TheFraz (Mar 4, 2020)

Agpp said:


> That's VERY interesting.
> I also dreamed about a flashlight that could be assembled without soldering, I really like what I see...though I don't fully understand what fits where and why.



Thanks . It was a long time in development to get this to work. Here is a video of me assembling the components so you can get a better idea of how it fits together. I'm gonna try to keep this thread updated more on the development of these lights (along with YouTube and Instagram content). The sales thread will also be updated with content but less tech info.



-Fraz


----------



## Agpp (Mar 4, 2020)

Thanks, the video explains everything, though I had to watch at quarter speed. 
Really, I haven't seen a concept this nice for a long time.


----------



## peter yetman (Mar 4, 2020)

Isn't it nice when it works first time?
P


----------



## TheFraz (Mar 4, 2020)

Agpp said:


> Thanks, the video explains everything, though I had to watch at quarter speed.
> Really, I haven't seen a concept this nice for a long time.




Thank you . Glad you like it. Sped it up so the assembly wouldn't seem too boring.


----------



## TheFraz (Mar 4, 2020)

peter yetman said:


> Isn't it nice when it works first time?
> P



Ha! Absolutely. Gives me great joy when people tell me 'that makes sense, it brightens when you tighten it because of connection - I can do that with my [email protected] too right?.'

I plan to post a vid soon of the 500 lbs of scrap prototypes I have. I love some of them.


----------



## Glenn7 (Mar 7, 2020)

Hi Paul,
Hope you don't mind me posting this here, I did try PM-ing you but it just didn't seem to work/send. 

Just wondering hows it going for a fix for the mashed spring on my 26350 light? Unfortunaly it has been sitting in my draw the whole time, I did buy some protected 26350 batteries but they don't fit :0( 

Also could I order an extra 26650/21700 body (that could use protected batteries) as well to fit the 26350 Big E light?

Thanks
Glenn


----------



## TheFraz (Mar 9, 2020)

Glenn7 said:


> Hi Paul,
> Hope you don't mind me posting this here, I did try PM-ing you but it just didn't seem to work/send.
> 
> Just wondering hows it going for a fix for the mashed spring on my 26350 light? Unfortunaly it has been sitting in my draw the whole time, I did buy some protected 26350 batteries but they don't fit :0(
> ...



Hey Glenn. Sorry about the inbox....I've gotta clear it out and buy more space for sure.

I have your spring (I'll send you a few extras) ready to go, I just have to machine the special tool for you to be able to open up the bezel of the Lumenite (I only have one). Sorry it has taken so long. 

Those protected batteries won't work with those battery tube designs because they were made specifically for the shorter, unprotected battery type. I'm sure that is what caused damage to that spring - the pinch and twist when the battery tube ran out of space for the battery and it bound up against the spring. It opened my eyes as I haven't had that happen before. The light is designed for the battery to 'float' between those 2 springs thus always maintaining contact. And when fully twisted to full on, the battery should be under no tension with the internals of the light.

I wanted the light to be as compact as possible. I have since lengthened the tubes as much as I can to accommodate for as may battery types as possible. I can definitely get you a 21700 battery tube type for the Lumenite, but I will need you to measure the thread diameter of the internal threads of your light - I update the design with each new run and slightly change the models as feedback comes in.

That internal retaining ring tool definitely has made me rethink the bezel designs of these lights for easier user access.

-Paul


----------



## Glenn7 (Mar 9, 2020)

Thank's for you're responce Paul,

The tube seems to mesure 39mm at the thread & the same diameter of inside of the head it screws into. 
Can the lights I got from you be upgraded to the new wireless set up? if you need, I could send them back for a tune-up and extra battery tube.


----------



## TheFraz (Mar 11, 2020)

Glenn7 said:


> Thank's for you're responce Paul,
> 
> The tube seems to mesure 39mm at the thread & the same diameter of inside of the head it screws into.
> Can the lights I got from you be upgraded to the new wireless set up? if you need, I could send them back for a tune-up and extra battery tube.



No problem at all Glenn. Yes, if you send them back I'd be happy to fix the issues - that would definitely be the best way to do it. I want to make sure I get the parts matched to your light as it was one of the older designs.


----------



## Tixx (Mar 20, 2020)

I've been watching for a while the development. I haven't been on here very much over the past year or so. Is there a quick place I can go to order? Just a lot to catch up on, sorry. Thank you! Cool manufacturing videos!


----------



## HarryN (Mar 25, 2020)

Tixx said:


> I've been watching for a while the development. I haven't been on here very much over the past year or so. Is there a quick place I can go to order? Just a lot to catch up on, sorry. Thank you! Cool manufacturing videos!



Here is the sales thread:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...lights-(formerly-QTC-Non-Battery-Crush)/page9

I am still working my way through the purchase details myself.


----------



## TheFraz (Oct 23, 2020)

Just updated the OP with some updated pics on the new look of the light. The internals have also continued to change. The wireless design is progressing nicely.

I keep saying it....but I'm really gonna try to start updating this thread along with the sales thread to show more development stuff.







Top down view of the internals on my EDC.

-Fraz


----------



## ma tumba (Oct 23, 2020)

Cant find ordering instructions


----------



## AstroTurf (Oct 23, 2020)

here ya go...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...-Flashlights-(formerly-QTC-Non-Battery-Crush)



ma tumba said:


> Cant find ordering instructions


----------

