# VFD in the CNC poo'd the bed



## sortafast (Jul 25, 2014)

Ran the program 20x, took a couple hour break for some chow and such, come back and the spindle won't spin. After a frantic day of phone calls, figure that the VFD is toast in some way or another and that fixing it or replacing it is the way to go. Drop in replacement is $2k. Repairs range fro $350 for just repairing the power board to $1800 for the full repair of the complete unit. I could put in a new Hitachi SJ200 or a Teco MA7200 VFD but I can't get a lot of info about the motor so I am leery to go this route. The motor is a Yaskawa rated for 3.9-5.5KW and has an RPM rating of 1500-8000rpm, and a 200v max. Outside of that I have no other info nor does it seem that I can get it out of Yaskawa or ZPS USA due to this machine being 20+ years old. Undaunted (and being a total cheapskate) I tore the thing down to look at it. Looks like 2-3 of the small electrolytic capacitors may have blown. There are small traces of oil around their bases. Its a $5 fix that I hope will solve the issue but I am taking it to a guy that is a computer engineer with a bunch of scopes and such to see if anything else is hosed on the board. Anyone else have any dealings with VFD repairs or have any insight into this issue I have? 

BTW the VFD is a Yaskawa/saftrontics/magnetec CIMR G3U27P5, motor is a Yaskawa UAASAK-06CA1. The caps were rated at 16v (for what I am assuming is some sort of control circuit) and 35V (for the 24V circuit for other stuff, I think, could be wrong). They were rated for up to 105°C and when I opened the cabinet after I found out the spindle didn't work the air inside was pretty close to ambient so I don't think the head killed them. However I was running it pretty hard on some roughing ops so maybe it did over heat and take out the caps? Thoughts? This is also x-posted to PM. Just thought there are more electronical types over here that might have some insight.


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## Jakefreese (Jul 26, 2014)

Magnetec drives are tough. If you wanted to try to have it sent out control concepts in Dallas is the place. Since it is an older drive I would try swapping the caps. That is one of the largest failures of older drives is the electrolytic caps failing. We have had a rash of abb drives failing as the pre charge caps dry out and if the drive is powered down it will not come back. Do you have any indication on the drive? Do you have any voltage on the control output terminals? Have you verified input power? Typically if drives have an scr failure it will trip breakers or blow fuses. Usually complete dead drives have a problem in the pre charge or bridge rectifier area. As the control power comes from there. I'll see if I have the tech manual for that drive.


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## Jakefreese (Jul 26, 2014)

Ha just saw you x posted at pm same user name?


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## sortafast (Jul 26, 2014)

Jakefreese said:


> Ha just saw you x posted at pm same user name?


its either sortafast or slapnuts. Those are the 2 I typically use.

Also, we replaced 2 caps yesterday. Both had leaked and one was very trashed. Reassembled and it no worky. My Father in law is going to come over this afternoon with his o-scope and stuff to see if we can make heads or tails of this. I have done some very rudimentary testing with my volt-o-meter and the board has power from the breaker, but when checking for the 15v ref across terminals 15 and 17 like the manual states, I only get 7-8v, not the 15v. I also get this same voltage for the cooling fan on the back which is a 24v fan. Also, the "charge" LED comes on so I am assuming the large caps in the back are getting powered up but nothing else is working at this point. I am going to go over the board again, maybe we will just replace all of the electrolytic caps. I didn't see any others that were bad, but who knows. I don't have or know of how to test the caps to see if they are working. We are going to give this one more shot then its off to get a new VFD. Most places I have talked to want $800-1000 to repair the drive. I can't swing that right now. I could probably sell off a bunch of stuff and pay for a new VFD as they are $500-650. I just got all of the factory parameters for the Magnetec/saftronics drive I have now, plus I have a nice manual for it so I should be able to set up a new VFD pretty easily. But if anothe $1.50 in caps would fix this drive, I would much rather do that. We shall see what today brings...


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## Jakefreese (Jul 26, 2014)

With only getting half the voltage on your controls you probably have part of the bridge rectifier diodes open. Check your rectifier diodes. I bet you have one open. Are you running single phase to your drive?


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## sortafast (Jul 26, 2014)

Jakefreese said:


> With only getting half the voltage on your controls you probably have part of the bridge rectifier diodes open. Check your rectifier diodes. I bet you have one open. Are you running single phase to your drive?


No. The drive is a 10hp model and the motor is 5hp continuous and 7.5hp max. So I am running a RPC to get the 3rd leg. I went back through and checked for balance on the legs of the RPC and it seems a bit more "unbalanced than I remember. Looks like between each leg I am at +2%, -3%, and +0.8% of the average of all 3 legs. So I am kind of wondering if the 4-5% swing between the 2 worst legs may have caused the issues here? I don't know. The RPC is supposed to be balanced. Its one of the nicer American Rotary boxes with a 7.5hp motor I bought used to keep the costs down.


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## Jakefreese (Jul 26, 2014)

Typically the balance does not affect vfd, as many shops still have open delta power sources which have no reference to ground so one phase could have anywhere from 0 to full phase to phase voltage on one phase.


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## sortafast (Jul 26, 2014)

Pulled the board again and found 2 maybe 3 more caps that look suspect. Gonna replace those. I am not sure how to test diodes on the board. For some reason almost all of the diodes register current both ways. But my skills in electronics are a bit sub par.


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## Jakefreese (Jul 26, 2014)

Do you have a meter with diode check on it? Voltage should flow from one side to the other of the diode. Depending on your meter ohm check can do it also. I have done them with a 9 volt battery and a light. Depending on the board architecture you may or may not be able to check the bridge diodes individually.


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## sortafast (Jul 26, 2014)

Jakefreese said:


> Do you have a meter with diode check on it? Voltage should flow from one side to the other of the diode. Depending on your meter ohm check can do it also. I have done them with a 9 volt battery and a light. Depending on the board architecture you may or may not be able to check the bridge diodes individually.


I am thinking that I can't check them individually. I checked probably 9 or 10 different diodes across the board and found 1 that worked as it was supposed to. My father in law was going to bring over his O-Scope today to help but I was out when he stopped by. So that will have to wait until monday probably. I am going to try swapping out the rest of the caps that look bad, but I think I will wait on firing it back up just incase the diodes are causing some of the problems. 

On a side note, what is the failure mode for a regular diode? Are there and outward signs that one has gone bad? I found one that looks like it is on (what I think is) a rectifier circuit. There is some green looking build up around one of the metal legs. Kind of looks like oxidized copper. But from my little bit of knowledge of them i don't think there would be a visible failure unless it was some sort of huge surge that caused it to physically blow out.


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## gadget_lover (Jul 27, 2014)

Diodes in the circuit are hard to diagnose simply because your test voltage may be flowing through other parts of the circuitry. There are some tests that work when it's in the circuit. If a diode does not show a low resistance in at least one direction, then it is open.  It can show a low resistance when open if the current flows via the surrounding circuits.

A diode that fails "open" will sometimes show a physical crack in the plastic or ceramic case. I've also seen them burn the circuit board when they overheat.

Good luck, and remember that the circuitry in a VFD outputs high voltages. Be careful.

Dan


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## precisionworks (Jul 27, 2014)

Jakefreese said:


> Typically the balance does not affect vfd, as many shops still have open delta power sources which have no reference to ground so one phase could have anywhere from 0 to full phase to phase voltage on one phase.


+1

Really common on a 240v high leg Delta to read voltage to ground at:

124 
124 
210 
Even with the large voltage variations one of my customers runs more freq drives than I can count & rarely ever does one go down.


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## inetdog (Jul 27, 2014)

Jakefreese said:


> Typically the balance does not affect vfd, as many shops still have open delta power sources which have no reference to ground so one phase could have anywhere from 0 to full phase to phase voltage on one phase.


Open delta should not be confused with ungrounded delta or high leg delta. All "open delta" means is that only two transformers are used, not three. The open delta does lead to poorer voltage regulation with unbalanced loads on the open side, though.


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## Jakefreese (Jul 27, 2014)

That was exactly my point that drives survive the poor voltage regulation of the open delta it can survive just about anything. I hate open deltas with a passion.


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## inetdog (Jul 27, 2014)

Jakefreese said:


> That was exactly my point that drives survive the poor voltage regulation of the open delta it can survive just about anything. I hate open deltas with a passion.


With appropriate derating because of the current imbalance in the rectifier bridge, VFDs can quite nicely survive being driven by only one of the three phases. In some cases that makes them the most practical single phase to three phase converter, with the reduced starting current being a free benefit.


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## Jakefreese (Jul 27, 2014)

I had originally run my big equipment and well pump off a rotory phase converter and have swapped everything to vfds over time. I setup one of the cranes at work on single phase due to it being so far from the 3 phase, saved us 200k going that route.


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## precisionworks (Jul 27, 2014)

inetdog said:


> All "open delta" means is that only two transformers are used, not three.


Lots of Delta 3 phase variations:


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## sortafast (Jul 31, 2014)

OK, looks like the VFD is a total loss. Not worth the time to try to find the problem. So its time to source some funds and get a new one. Looking at either a Teco MA7200 or a Hitachi WJ200. I am leaning towards the Teco as I have dealt with them in the past and they have been very helpful Plus I can get it for a bout $80 less than the Hitachi. But I also see a lot of people liking the Hitachi's. Cost will be a pretty big factor in this. Anyone have any input? I can post the parameters for the old Drive if need be. It just sucks having to figure all this stuff out myself as I can't afford to pay a controls company a buck twenty an hour to do it for me.


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## precisionworks (Jul 31, 2014)

Please take this FWIW ...

TECO-Westinghouse has historically been the lowest price among name brand drives. Solid build quality, unit is huge compared to every comparable drive but that isn't all bad as it may help with component ventilation & cooling (or heat dissipation in a 4X drive). 2 year warranty.

Hitachi is usually one of the higher price point units. Made in Japan (last time I bought one but be sure to check on this). 18 month warranty. The WJ Series is a newer model built to compete with lower priced drives so this may (or may not) be a Chinese unit. 

ACTech SMVector is the drive I continue to buy for my shop & the drive I install when a customer asks me to pick one out. Price comparable to Hitachi, components sourced globally & assembled in the USA. 2 year warranty.

Tech support from all three is excellent.

In my humble & somewhat biased opinion the choice would be in the following order:

ACTech SMVector
Hitachi WJ200
TECO MA7200

YMMV


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## sortafast (Aug 1, 2014)

Looked into the ACtech. To match up the amperage I would need a 15HP drive. I can't swing that. I am fire selling some gun stuffs to pay for this mess. Just decided to go with a Teco MA7200 10HP drive. Its the least expensive and will do everything I need for it. The Teco rep said he used to either fix, sell or otherwise deal with the Saftronics drive I have and said that the MA7200 should be pretty simple to install and get running. Only thing left is to figure out if I can use my existing braking resistors or if I will have to buy new ones. I need to track down the Wattage rating on them. I think it will be find but last thing I need is a resistor going out due to it being inadequate for the job at hand. I need to tear apart the reisistor array and see what they are. All I can find is that they were made by Milwaukee and are 100Ohms ea x 4 resistors. Only other #s on them are 10/92, which may have been when they were made (machine was made in 1992). Hopefully will have some time this afternoon to tear into it. But at best I am still a week out on getting the VFD so I have some time to kill.


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## precisionworks (Aug 2, 2014)

sortafast said:


> Looked into the ACtech. To match up the amperage I would need a 15HP drive.



A few posts back you mentioned that _the motor is 5hp continuous and 7.5hp max._ Before you decide on the brand & model of VFD you'll need to consider what you want the machine motor to do. 

If you need not more than 5hp continuous then any of the 5hp single phase VFD's will work fine, as will any 10hp VFD unless it has phase loss detection. TECO, Hitachi, ACTech, Siemens, Toshiba, Yaskawa, Mitsubishi, Baldor, ABB, etc. are all good candidates. 

If you need a drive to support 7.5hp the game changes abruptly. No 5hp 1-ph or 10hp 3-ph drive will supply the amps/watts necessary to run a 7.5hp motor except for a brief time (which varies by brand & model). Running a 7.5 hp motor requires a 15hp 3-ph drive & there's no way to work around that. 



> Only thing left is to figure out if I can use my existing braking resistors or if I will have to buy new ones.


Tech support should be able to figure out exactly what the drive needs to function properly.


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## sortafast (Aug 2, 2014)

precisionworks said:


> A few posts back you mentioned that _the motor is 5hp continuous and 7.5hp max._ Before you decide on the brand & model of VFD you'll need to consider what you want the machine motor to do.
> 
> If you need not more than 5hp continuous then any of the 5hp single phase VFD's will work fine, as will any 10hp VFD unless it has phase loss detection. TECO, Hitachi, ACTech, Siemens, Toshiba, Yaskawa, Mitsubishi, Baldor, ABB, etc. are all good candidates.
> 
> If you need a drive to support 7.5hp the game changes abruptly. No 5hp 1-ph or 10hp 3-ph drive will supply the amps/watts necessary to run a 7.5hp motor except for a brief time (which varies by brand & model). Running a 7.5 hp motor requires a 15hp 3-ph drive & there's no way to work around that.



While I don't anticipate running the mill to full load, I have run it pretty hard. I was running it really hard right before the VFD croaked. Was pulling 70ipm at 3200rpm in aluminum with a carbide aluminum rougher with pretty good amount of material being removed (like .375" DOC at .2" wide on a 1/2" endmill). I think this was taxing the machine more than it every really had been before. Anyway, I am not looking at keeping this machine long term. I would like to upgrade to a better machine with a 15-20 tool ATC. But this will have to get me by until I get there. So I want to be able to have a drive in this machine that will be as close to the factory drive as possible. I don't need a lot of fancy features, just need it to be able run as it used to. From my limited knowledge and looking, the SMV drive might not have enough inputs and out puts. My machine controls the VFD via analog signals from what I can gather. I do not believe there are any digital signals coming from the cnc control. I have a list of what is needed, but I do know that the Teco has everything I need. I am less certain about the ACTech. Also, I am basing the HP rating on the amps required. In the parameters for my dead drive it put the max amps at 32. The motor is rated up to 39A but I think they derate it for longevity. The 10hp SMV will go to 28A so I think that would be acceptable. But if it lacks the inputs that I need I would rather get the Teco. But then again I found a 10hp SMV for $540 delivered which very much appeals to my inner cheapskate. I really need to get this all figured out and soon. Should have most all of the $$ by next week and need to get this done ASAP as I was just at the front end of a rather large and very critical run of parts.



> Tech support should be able to figure out exactly what the drive needs to function properly.


For the Teco I know I need a 780W 200ohm braking resistor. What I have in my mill is an array of 4 very large 100ohm resistors that I am having trouble locating the wattage rating. If I can make what I have work with the new drive I will be very happy as it would save me some coin. Not sure if it will or not though. I need to tear it apart further to see if I can find a part # to reference or something.


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## precisionworks (Aug 2, 2014)

sortafast said:


> ... the SMV drive might not have enough inputs and out puts. My machine controls the VFD via analog signals from what I can gather...


The drive has 4 digital inputs (1 run/stop and 3 programmable), a Form A digital relay output switch, will accept both 0-10 VDC, 2-10 VDC and 4-20 mA analog inputs & will also supply a 0-10 VDC analog output. The drive also has a 10 VDC potentiometer reference, a 12 VDC 20 mA power supply for digital inputs, and a 12 VDC 50 mA supply. It also supports PID loop control.

Parameter P150 lists the analog selections for 0-10 VDC control & 2-10 VDC control. A 2-10 VDC signal can be converted to 4-20 mA with a total circuit impedance of 500 Ω. Tech support can confirm whether the SMV control will work in your application.

FWIW most of the analog controls I see are either 0-10 or 4-20.

0 None
1 0-10 VDC Output Frequency
2 2-10 VDC Output Frequency
3 0-10 VDC Load
4 2-10 VDC Load
5 0-10 VDC Torque
6 2-10 VDC Torque
7 0-10 VDC Power (kW)
8 2-10 VDC Power (kW)
9 Network Controlled Requires optional communication module


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## sortafast (Aug 2, 2014)

precisionworks said:


> The drive has 4 digital inputs (1 run/stop and 3 programmable), a Form A digital relay output switch, will accept both 0-10 VDC, 2-10 VDC and 4-20 mA analog inputs & will also supply a 0-10 VDC analog output. The drive also has a 10 VDC potentiometer reference, a 12 VDC 20 mA power supply for digital inputs, and a 12 VDC 50 mA supply. It also supports PID loop control.
> 
> Parameter P150 lists the analog selections for 0-10 VDC control & 2-10 VDC control. A 2-10 VDC signal can be converted to 4-20 mA with a total circuit impedance of 500 Ω. Tech support can confirm whether the SMV control will work in your application.
> 
> ...



yeah, I am going to call on monday and get all of the details. This whole mess is making my brain hurt. On top of all this I have some other business related things that just came up that have a major potential to be a headache. Hopefully this coming week starts out a lot better than that last one did. Ugh...


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## sortafast (Aug 6, 2014)

precisionworks said:


> A few posts back you mentioned that _the motor is 5hp continuous and 7.5hp max._ Before you decide on the brand & model of VFD you'll need to consider what you want the machine motor to do.
> 
> If you need not more than 5hp continuous then any of the 5hp single phase VFD's will work fine, as will any 10hp VFD unless it has phase loss detection. TECO, Hitachi, ACTech, Siemens, Toshiba, Yaskawa, Mitsubishi, Baldor, ABB, etc. are all good candidates.
> 
> ...



Haven't heard back from ACTech about the SMV working for this application. And the more I look through the manual the more it looks like it won't work with out some serious doing that far exceed what I want to put into it. I am looking very strongly at the Teco at this point. It looks like the easiest to wire in with what I have for connections from the controller and with what the old Drive was set up with. I am just torn as to the size of the unit to get. Right now I am getting my 3ph from a 7.5hp American Rotary RPC head unit with a used 7.5hp motor. Works pretty good. So I am not using the VFD to go from 1ph -> 3ph. 

So I am looking at the #'s on the teco brochure here and I am torn between the 7.5hp and the 10hp 230v 3ph MA7200's, part numbers MA7200-2007-N1 and the MA7200-2010-N1. Not sure what the deal is with Variable Torque vs Constant Torque for this application (Tree 325J cnc knee mill). I am seeing that the VFD size should be based on the FLA of the motor. FLA of motor are listed at 39A . The Parameters list the Amps being limited to 32A but the plate on the back of the machine says the max current draw is 20A, so I am a bit confused. Since I am being told constant torque is the way to go, With the 7.5hp MA7200 the CT amps are 24A and VT are 32A. With the 10hp MA7200 its 32A for both CT and VT. I did some rough calcs for some of the machining I do and it says that I shouldn't be over 3hp for even the nastiest machining I currently do or plan on doing. Due to chip containment, I doubt I would push much harder than I already am. So, with the De-rated Amps of the 7.5HP MA7200 would I have issues? That is where I am stuck. With lower amps being input, would that just lower the amount of Torque/Horespower I would have? Or is there some other negative consequence that I am missing there? I don't want to end up constantly faulting out the drive when machining hard, and I also don't want to have to go out and buy the 10hp unit after the fact. Limited funds + limited VFD installation and application knowledge = much headaches. I just want to get this right the first time and not have to do it again.


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## precisionworks (Aug 7, 2014)

You may want to post your question in the Phase Converter & VFD Section on PM.

Regarding hp requirements, try figuring a 3" face mill, 6 inserts, .125" DOC, 800 sfpm, in 4140HT, running all the ipm the machine can stand. I've runs Bridgeport's with 3hp motors us those parameters & the ipm is limited by the low hp & torque. 

It all depends on what you machine & how it's set up. If time isn't an issue & smaller DOC or lower ipm is acceptable the smaller motor may be adequate.


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## Jakefreese (Aug 7, 2014)

Variable torque is often fine in milling machines as you are not changing speeds while your engaged in cutting. Constant torque is often required when speeds and loads are dynamically changing (material positioning such as cranes and mobile equipment).

So the old drive parameters limited the current to 32a? How many kW was the spindle? 

When we run into challenges on drive selection control concepts in Dallas has been our go to. I deal with crane, water pump, conveyor, equipment drives. I have limited experience in the fabrication tool vfd design.


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## sortafast (Aug 7, 2014)

I already x-posted this to PM. I like to spread the love around . 



> You may want to post your question in the Phase Converter & VFD Section on PM.
> 
> Regarding hp requirements, try figuring a 3" face mill, 6 inserts, .125" DOC, 800 sfpm, in 4140HT, running all the ipm the machine can stand. I've runs Bridgeport's with 3hp motors us those parameters & the ipm is limited by the low hp & torque.
> 
> It all depends on what you machine & how it's set up. If time isn't an issue & smaller DOC or lower ipm is acceptable the smaller motor may be adequate.


This is a semi-open CNC Knee mill. I doubt I will ever need to run a 3" facemill like that in steel. I mostly work in aluminum as that is easy to machine and my droplet coolant system works great for it. I am planning on more fully enclosing this mess and getting flood coolant so I *could* potentially cut the steel like that, but I don't know if/when I will. I don't really have a need to at this point, and if I did, I would take it over to my buddy's shop who is set up for cutting steel. At the end of the day though, I would much rather have 2 machines one for Aluminum and one for steel. Would make cleaning them up easier :naughty:



Jakefreese said:


> Variable torque is often fine in milling machines as you are not changing speeds while your engaged in cutting. Constant torque is often required when speeds and loads are dynamically changing (material positioning such as cranes and mobile equipment).
> 
> So the old drive parameters limited the current to 32a? How many kW was the spindle?


The spindle is 5.5kw max and 3.9kw continuous (i think its 3.9, I know its somewhere around there). Voltages go from 21V min to 160v max as indicated by the parameter sheet that I have for the old drive. Max Amps listed on the motor plate were 29A Cont and 39A max with a 200v max for the motor. It seems that everything has been toned down from max by 10-20% (max RPM for the motor is 8k while the machine runs it to a max of 7k on the RPMs and the Max Volts in the controller are 160v vs the 200v max, etc). I am thinking with this de-rating so to speak I think I am on the border of the 2 drives. I am all about saving money here as I have a Pistol suppressor I still need to pay the tax stamp on, so anything I can save $$$ wise here would be very nice indeed.


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## precisionworks (Aug 9, 2014)

Jakefreese said:


> Variable torque is often fine in milling machines as you are not changing speeds while your engaged in cutting. Constant torque is often required when speeds and loads are dynamically changing (material positioning such as cranes and mobile equipment).



Variable torque (or V/Hz) drives work best on motor loads where the required torque decreases as load rpm decreases. Pumps & fans are two examples of decreasing speed/decreasing torque loads. These drives cost less for a number of reasons including more simple control algorithms, less powerful µP chips, lower wattage rated components, etc. 

Constant torque (or vector) drives are designed to maintain 100% torque at motor speeds down to 0 rpm. These are most often chosen for machine tool speed control because they let the user choose the spindle speed most appropriate for the material.


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## sortafast (Aug 9, 2014)

Well I couldn't wait to raise the extra $$ so I got the 7.5hp VFD. Hopefully it works for what I need, but I think it will. Got the MA7200 and the corresponding brake resistor from Factorymation.com. Hopefully it shows up next week sometime so I can get back to work.


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## precisionworks (Aug 11, 2014)

The 7.5hp model will be fine as long as the motor load is 3.75hp or less on a continuous run. All currently manufactured drives are NEC-approved as overcurrent protection devices so if the load exceeds drive capacity the drive will fault out, just like a molded case circuit breaker. 

The MA7200 is rated at 150% over current for 1 minute & that allows pushing the motor load up to 5.6hp in short bursts. Thermal sensors in the drive constantly monitor component temp & the drive will fault out on over temp if pushed too hard for an extended time. Worst case is that you may need to reduce DOC or IPM on some ops.


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## sortafast (Aug 12, 2014)

I don't think I have ever gone above 3hp of use on my spindle, and even then when I did come close it was probably when I was crashing it. With the calc's I ran for most of the cutting I am doing, the most I saw was a 2.8hp requirement. So I am thinking this thing will work for now. IF it doesn't, I will just save some pennies and buy its big brother if/when the time comes.


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## sortafast (Aug 25, 2014)

Ok, got everything in and programmed and did my first tests with the spindle. Got full control of the motor via the Dynapath controller. Very happy. Had some issues with some parameters, but it was just stupid oversight from working too late at night on it. Changed a couple parameters having to do with motor overload faults and we are in business. Hopefully things will quiet down around here and I will get some time to see how it really performs.

On a side note, does anyone know how to set up the braking/decel times for the drive and the huge braking resistor? I don't want to fry things here but I would like to make my decel/stop times as short as possible so that I can go from cut to cut a lot faster.


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## precisionworks (Aug 25, 2014)

The quick answer is to start with a long decel time like 5 seconds. If that doesn't fault try 4, 3, 2, 1, .5, .25, .125, etc. Until it faults out. Then increase time slightly until there's no fault.


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## sortafast (Aug 26, 2014)

That was my thought on it. The factory parameter from the old drive was set at 10 seconds so I think going to 5 or something isn't out of the question. I just don't want to stuff too much heat into the cabinet from that resistor. But I am adding a couple fans to really throw some air throw the cabinet to keep things happy.


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