# Quark Turbo XP-E R2 Mod



## ti-force (May 15, 2010)

This is a pretty basic mod really, but I thought I'd share it with anyone who's interested. I took my Quark 123-2 Turbo and swapped the XP-G R5 emitter for an XP-E R2 emitter. My reasoning behind this was to increase the throw, since that's what the Quark Turbo's are mostly for anyway right. I haven't had the time to take any outdoor beam shots, but if I get time I'll try to. I did take an indoor beam shot comparing my 123-2 XP-E R2 Turbo with my AA-2 XP-G R5 Turbo. Anyway, enough talking and on with the pictures:thumbsup::





*Head separated:*










*Different angle of head separated:*









*Head separated, plastic piece that centers the emitter removed:*









*You've probably seen this before, but I thought I'd throw it in:*









*The other half of the head:*









*Reflector and glass:*









*XP-E R2 emitter:*









*XP-G R5 emitter removed:*









*Everything put back together:*













* The lights were about 1ft from the wall in this picture. The XP-E is on the left and the XP-G is on the right:*






*I still need to take both of these lights outside and compare them side by side to see how much difference there is. Considering it gets dark at around 9:00pm here, it makes it more difficult to find the time to play in the dark.*


----------



## ^Gurthang (May 15, 2010)

Nice mod! Very interesting too, especially after looking at the beamshot. Source for the XP-E?


----------



## ti-force (May 15, 2010)

^Gurthang said:


> Nice mod! Very interesting too, especially after looking at the beamshot. Source for the XP-E?



Thanks. The XP-E R2 was borrowed from one of my Quark 123-2 lights, which worked out pretty good because I put the XP-G in place of the XP-E. I think the XP-E's can be purchased on a board from Cutter as well though.


----------



## choaticwhisper (May 15, 2010)

same plans for the AAx2 turbo you bought from me? LOL
Very nice looks like that is just what the turbo needed. Its always been a source of debate.

I thought about it, but just couldn't void that great 4seven warranty.

Im looking forward to some outdoor pics.


----------



## ti-force (May 16, 2010)

choaticwhisper said:


> same plans for the AAx2 turbo you bought from me? LOL
> Very nice looks like that is just what the turbo needed. Its always been a source of debate.
> 
> I thought about it, but just couldn't void that great 4seven warranty.
> ...



I'm not sure what plans are in store for the AA-2 Turbo, but I might mod the head with a Shiningbeam driver like I did my 123-2 XP-G R5 . That should wake it up a little :naughty:, but the only problem is, the head couldn't be used with the AA-2 body anymore if I do that.

I took both lights out last night to compare the two side by side. The XP-E Turbo is the clear winner, hands down. According to Google Earth, I was comparing at a distance of roughly 120 yards, and it was very clear that the XP-E had a brighter and smaller hot spot :thumbsup:.

I hope to find the time to take beam shots soon :thumbsup:.


----------



## gunga (Apr 27, 2011)

I know this is an old thread, but I just wanted to ask how you got the Turbo head open? I can't get a good grip on the fins with my strap wrenches...


----------



## ti-force (Apr 27, 2011)

gunga said:


> I know this is an old thread, but I just wanted to ask how you got the Turbo head open? I can't get a good grip on the fins with my strap wrenches...


 
I always use a heat gun to open the head, but be careful not to get it too hot or you can melt the plastic led centering piece. You can use two pairs of Channel Locks with something inserted into the jaws to keep from scarring the head. I always remove the clip from the body, then screw the head back onto the body before trying to clamp down and break the head halves loose. This isn't really an issue with the Turbo head because of the additional fins and thickness, but it's good practice for me because it's an issue on non-Turbo heads and will keep you from crimping the thin threaded part of the head on non-Turbo Quarks. You could use a piece of an old leather belt in the jaws to keep the jaws from contacting the head, or possibly some type of thick rubber hose with hose clamps screwed tight so the clamping pressure is spread more throughout the head. I will state that I tried the hose and clamp method without success, but you might have better luck. Let me know how it goes. The Turbo head is a little more difficult because of the angled head and fins, but with heat and patience it can be done.


----------



## gunga (Apr 27, 2011)

Blast! Thanks.

I've been able to open most quark heads with no heat, just good strap wrenches, but the Turbo does not offer a good place to grip, what with the fins. Thanks for the tips!


----------



## ti-force (Apr 27, 2011)

gunga said:


> Blast! Thanks.
> 
> I've been able to open most quark heads with no heat, just good strap wrenches, but the Turbo does not offer a good place to grip, what with the fins. Thanks for the tips!


 
No problem :thumbsup:. Also, if you're swapping an XP-E emitter into your Turbo head, see the following link for some comparison beamshots of one of my XP-E modded Turbo heads against XP-E Quarks, XP-G Quarks, etc. It is picture heavy, though, so the page may not load correctly if you're viewing from a cell phone, plus the images are .gif's, which don't seem to work correctly on cell phones: Click here


----------



## gunga (Apr 27, 2011)

I was going to put in a neutral XP-G. I thought about an XP-E, but decided it wasn't worth the decrease in output.

What is your opinion?


----------



## ti-force (Apr 27, 2011)

My opinion is that if you're looking for more throw you may not actually notice the difference in decreased brightness of the XP-E vs the XP-G. It definitely tightens the beam up quite a bit. Hey don't they have R3 or R4 flux binned XP-E's now? Seems like I remember seeing or reading that somewhere. If you're not planning to change the driver to deliver more current to the XP-G, I'd say try to find a higher flux binned XP-E and give it a shot. You could always re-assemble the head without glue to test, then if you don't like it all you really have to do is desolder the leads and replace with an XP-G. Just an idea.


----------



## bigchelis (Apr 28, 2011)

ti-force said:


> My opinion is that if you're looking for more throw you may not actually notice the difference in decreased brightness of the XP-E vs the XP-G. It definitely tightens the beam up quite a bit. Hey don't they have R3 or R4 flux binned XP-E's now? Seems like I remember seeing or reading that somewhere. If you're not planning to change the driver to deliver more current to the XP-G, I'd say try to find a higher flux binned XP-E and give it a shot. You could always re-assemble the head without glue to test, then if you don't like it all you really have to do is desolder the leads and replace with an XP-G. Just an idea.



I always thought those Quark Turbo lights should have come with XR-E R2's and would love to purchase a new Quark Turbo X just to put a XR-E R2 in there.

May I suggest you put an XR-E R2 instead. The view angle is 90 degrees vs. 130 right? So, while it may be ringy you should have more throw/lux. The XP-E IMHO has a nicer beam but alot less throw then XR-E.

I always enjoy reading all your Quark mods

bigC


----------



## recDNA (Apr 28, 2011)

An EZ900 and a Shiningbeam 1.5 amp driver might be nice too.


----------



## bigchelis (Apr 28, 2011)

recDNA said:


> An EZ900 and a Shiningbeam 1.5 amp driver might be nice too.



True, but those EZ900 at 1.5A with awesome heatsink will be hard pressed to hit 220ish real OTF lumens. I have been experimenting with them lately, with even copper to LED bonding and lumens still stay low.

bigC


----------



## screennamie (Mar 14, 2013)

Ok old thread, SORRY.

I have the quark AA2 turbo xpg R5, just got w/ dead head. I took it apart and the led lights up when I apply my am meter to check resistance. I know it does this by passing a small current. but with the regular batteries nothing. It's not the tail cap, tested that on another light.

Soooo, can anyone recommend a board/driver to replace with, or even know which it has in it?


----------



## ti-force (Mar 14, 2013)

screennamie said:


> Ok old thread, SORRY.
> 
> I have the quark AA2 turbo xpg R5, just got w/ dead head. I took it apart and the led lights up when I apply my am meter to check resistance. I know it does this by passing a small current. but with the regular batteries nothing. It's not the tail cap, tested that on another light.
> 
> Soooo, can anyone recommend a board/driver to replace with, or even know which it has in it?



I've used the Shiningbeam 1.4 amp drivers with xpg and had good results. Only thing is that with linear regulators like the Shiningbeam, voltage in must be higher than led voltage forward to operate correctly. If you switch to a 2x cr123 tube you could use that driver with a 17670 li-ion (provided the battery fits in tube. I've never had a problem, but I've read about others having problems). I would suggest AW liions if you go that route. You could also use 2x cr123 primaries, but the driver gets hot and efficiency goes way down. The manufacturer claims you can use them, though. I belive it's a 17mm od driver so you might find something else that would work with 2x aa batteries l. Shiningbeam may have one or you could try the sandwich shoppe. Taskled also makes great, high quality drivers, but I don't know if he has anything small enough to fit a Quark.


----------



## screennamie (Mar 14, 2013)

Ya I'd like to stick with AA because they're free at work. I'm new to this, what's the sandwhich shoppe?


----------



## ti-force (Mar 14, 2013)

screennamie said:


> Ya I'd like to stick with AA because they're free at work. I'm new to this, what's the sandwhich shoppe?



The sandwich shoppe builds and sells drivers. They make really good products, too. Sounds like you need a buck/boost driver if you want to stay with aa batteries. Here's a link to one with 3 modes: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_61&products_id=1153

Not sure if I'm supposed to post that link or not, so it may get removed. I think The Sandwich Shoppe is a dealer on here, so maybe it's ok. Only thing is it's just over a half in od, so you may have to use the bottom of the Quark driver as a contact point from the battery to the smaller driver board.


----------



## ti-force (Mar 14, 2013)

Just realized that driver is $40. Try this one: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_61&products_id=961 only thing is it's single mode.


----------



## screennamie (Mar 14, 2013)

Sweet thanks for the help!

Isn't there anywhere that I could puchase the 4sevens part, so I'd have all the modes? I've looked and I might as well just get a new light, or any where I can get a new head? :sigh:


----------



## ti-force (Mar 15, 2013)

You could ask Foursevens if they'll sell you the replacement driver. I doubt they would, but hey, it's possible. They may want you to send it to them as a customer pay repair. I have no idea how much that would cost. I think their 10 year warranty is only offered to the original purchaser, and only with proof of purchase, but even if that wasn't the case, you've most likely voided any warranty by disassembling the light. 

They do sell a replacement Turbo head for your light. The cost is $50 for a replacement head, and $75 for a new light. You could buy a regular Quark aa tactical head for $40 and remove the driver from it to install in your Turbo (same driver), but there's always a small chance that you could damage the driver getting it out of the new head, and still you're only saving $10, plus having to do the work (unless you enjoy working on things). 

If you have time, post a picture of the bottom side of the driver (where the battery makes contact with the driver) and post it here. Just want to make sure you didn't somehow end up with a high voltage Quark Turbo head and a 2aa body.


----------



## screennamie (Mar 15, 2013)

Will do. And I do actually enjoy working on this kind of stuff. I'm a pretty descent at soldering. Recently fixed an Xbox 360 disk drive. Had to swap the boards in that thing.

I'm pretty sure its not the high voltage one. There is no printing on it. But I'll get a pick after work. 

I just might go the replacement head route. I chewed this one up nice separating the halves  but just gives it character imo.


----------



## ti-force (Mar 15, 2013)

If you know it's not the high voltage head then no need to post picture. Yeah the scaring on the light definitely let's you use the light as a work light lol.... Not worried about scratching once it's already scratched. In the future, you may want to give some of these a try :






They work well for me with a little applied heat. Also, another option, I have a driver from a Shiningbeam s-mini (I think S-mini, I can check to make sure). You're welcome to it if you want to try it. Voltage range should be the same. Brightness is infinite adjustment, though, so you have to adjust every time you want to change brightness level.


----------



## screennamie (Mar 15, 2013)

That would be awesome! How much would you like for it? Shoot me a pm. The back looks exactly like the one you posted. :twothumbs

I did try to use a thick towel, but vise grips put a couple teeth marks. No harm no foul. This is my first tinkerer light.


----------



## ti-force (Mar 15, 2013)

screennamie said:


> That would be awesome! How much would you like for it? Shoot me a pm. The back looks exactly like the one you posted. :twothumbs
> 
> I did try to use a thick towel, but vise grips put a couple teeth marks. No harm no foul. This is my first tinkerer light.



pm sent


----------



## dafeichu (May 19, 2013)

Sorry to keep an old thread going  but I was wondering if anyone knew the size of the driver for a Turbo S2? I bought one yesterday with the intention of replacing the led with a XP-G2 R5 3C as well as the driver.


----------

