# Finally got a Maxabeam



## Echo63 (Aug 19, 2011)

I finally got my Maxabeam !

Since i saw Jurassic Park when it came out in the cinemas, and since i joined here and found out what the light was called (in 2004), i have always wanted a Maxabeam.
I snagged one about a month ago from the Marketplace, with Ushio UXL-75XE and Adapters, USPS managed to lose it, and finally it arrived at my doorstep yesterday.

I took it to work last night, shone it around the industrial area i work, and cant find a range longer than 800 metres to test it (and 800m isnt really working it hard either)


A few quick pics 
Bulb cooling down





Tape in the next two is holding the battery box together, the previous owner cracked the box open, replaced the dead pack with a 9ah SLA and superglued it back shut, it cracked open in transit and i have reglued and taped it (also had to adjust the bulb position screws to get a nice tight hotspot too)










Im loving this light, when i find a nice long range to do some beamshots i will post them for everyones viewing pleasure


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## bickford (Aug 19, 2011)

Very good purchase !

BICK


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## SHADE02 (Aug 19, 2011)

SO.......
THIS IS THE MODEL FROM THE MOVIE JP???


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## Walterk (Aug 19, 2011)

Beamshots are always great !
Have fun


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## Echo63 (Aug 19, 2011)

SHADE02 said:


> SO.......
> THIS IS THE MODEL FROM THE MOVIE JP???


 
Not sure which version was used in JP
This one is a gen2 I believe

The Maxabeam lights have been used in a number of movies and TV shows, Jurassic Park, NCIS and X files are 3 I can think of easily, I am sure there is many more


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## BVH (Aug 19, 2011)

Congrats Echo. I picked up a pair of Gen2 MB's that were modified and solid bracketed together and used for about 20 years as a searchlight on a Robinson R22 helicopter that was in police service. As such, they had no handles but were controlled by a joystick. Sent them to Peakbeam to convert back to conventional configuration. Upgraded one to Gen3.


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## DM51 (Aug 19, 2011)

Excellent! :thumbsup:

It will be interesting to hear how that SLA battery performs. If it is below expectations, and seeing it has already been opened up, you could consider modding it again by giving it a Li-Ion upgrade - LuxLuthor had a thread about doing that.


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## Echo63 (Aug 19, 2011)

DM51 said:


> Excellent! :thumbsup:
> 
> It will be interesting to hear how that SLA battery performs. If it is below expectations, and seeing it has already been opened up, you could consider modding it again by giving it a Li-Ion upgrade - LuxLuthor had a thread about doing that.


 
It seems to work ok, some of the older Maxabeam models had a 7ah SLA in them 
When I finally wear the SLA out I will probably put some 14ah F sized nimh in it (for double the runtime over the stock 7ah nicad pack)

The Li-Ion looks interesting, but I am happy with just using protected AW cells in my smaller lights, the seller did give me the option of a custom Lithium pack, but I don't have a balance charger, and I am not 100% comfortable with big lithium packs


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## ebow86 (Aug 20, 2011)

Is the lens on this model glass or plastic?


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## Walterk (Aug 20, 2011)

You can use 4 x A123 AHR32113 cells, they give me 40 minutes runtime. They fit the housing very well.
Rebalancing now and then would be smart with any cell type.


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## Echo63 (Aug 20, 2011)

ebow86 said:


> Is the lens on this model glass or plastic?


 
Pretty sure it's glass
I don't think a plastic lens would handle the heat generated by the bulb (the tungsten arc electrodes glow nice and red after running for 30 seconds or so)



Walterk said:


> You can use 4 x A123 AHR32113 cells, they give me 40 minutes runtime. They fit the housing very well.
> Rebalancing now and then would be smart with any cell type.


 I am thinking of getting a pack built up with 5000mah nimh subc cells, and then building/modifying a cable to work with the light, although those a123 cells look like a good alternative.
I did see a Maxabeam for sale ages ago using similar cells in a solderless tube, and a curlycord so the pack could be stuck in a pocket.
It's another battery chemistry I need to learn to use safely, but it may be worth it in weight savings.

You have me thinking now (which normally results in my wallet crying in pain)


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## CKOD (Aug 20, 2011)

You can get the A123 M1 cells from certain power tool packs. The dewalt 36V pack has 10 of them, and the 28V battery has 8 of them. ( http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-batteries-dc9280_2.aspx ) crack open the pack, and carefully remove the cells, reconfigure it to a 4s2P setup (if you have space, 2x 4S1P if you dont) and add a balance lead for using a hobby charger for charging.


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## ma_sha1 (Aug 20, 2011)

This is what I used:
http://www.batteryspace.com/Custom-LiFePO4-26650-Battery-12.8V-6.6Ah-84Wh-14A-Rate-w/-PCB.aspx

8x26650 Lifepo4. 6.6AH
Cheaper, lighter, safer, current protected & almost plug in & play


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## Echo63 (Aug 20, 2011)

ma_sha1 said:


> This is what I used:
> http://www.batteryspace.com/Custom-LiFePO4-26650-Battery-12.8V-6.6Ah-84Wh-14A-Rate-w/-PCB.aspx
> 
> 8x26650 Lifepo4. 6.6AH
> Cheaper, lighter, safer, current protected & almost plug in & play


 
That looks like the way to go
Protection circuit, similar capacity to stock packs, fairly easy to build into a pack (plastic box with some holes milled into the top)

Just need a voltage display and a connector (and I don't really have to worry about some Wally plugging it into the wrong charger, so I can use the same plug connector, assuming I can find one)

Does anyone have the parts numbers for the battery box connector, and both ends of the power lead ? 
I assume they are Amphenol connectors, and would be pretty easy to get hold of, but the amphenol connector range is rather large and difficult to navigate.
I might just email Amphenol Australia and send them some pics and measurements, and see if they have any ideas


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## DM51 (Aug 20, 2011)

Echo63 said:


> Does anyone have the parts numbers for the battery box connector, and both ends of the power lead ?
> I assume they are Amphenol connectors, and would be pretty easy to get hold of, but the amphenol connector range is rather large and difficult to navigate.



LuxLuthor referred to a source for the connectors in that thread I linked above, in this post.


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## CKOD (Aug 20, 2011)

DM51 said:


> LuxLuthor referred to a source for the connectors in that thread I linked above, in this post.


 
Unfortunately Tyco has changed names to TE connectivity, which makes it confusing and breaks some searches online, but from other pics I found, they resemble the CPC connectors 

http://www.te.com/commerce/Document...EnglishENG_CS_82021_CPC_sections1-5_0807.pdf

Is the product series catalog. They are pretty commonly available from the usual suspects (Digikey, Mouser, Newark, Allied) And even though they are crimp connectors, you can solder to the pins just fine and still stuff them into the connector body. 

The connectors on 10-11 are probably some of the ones in use, but they arent waterproof, so either they sealed up the back side of the battery/light connectors with silicone, or they used the waterproof ones on Page 44-48.

You should be able to get a part number off the connector body most likely

If someone is confused about if some parts numbers will work together etc... post what your looking at and I'll look over it.


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## ma_sha1 (Aug 20, 2011)

Echo63 said:


> That looks like the way to go
> Protection circuit, similar capacity to stock packs, fairly easy to build into a pack (plastic box with some holes milled into the top)
> 
> Just need a voltage display and a connector (and I don't really have to worry about some Wally plugging it into the wrong charger, so I can use the same plug connector, assuming I can find one)
> ...


 
you only need a charging system with 2 wires.

This is what I used, 
http://www.batteryspace.com/smartch...ls152vcut-offwith55mmx21mmmalebarrelplug.aspx

It even comes with a spare female connector, just drill a hole to mount the female connector on the battery box next to the 4 pin female, wire it in parallel with the 4 pin connector on the stock battery box. The 4 pin has 4 wires but two "+" & two "-" are connected on the inside, once you open the battery box, study the wiring, you'll figure it out.


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## Echo63 (Aug 21, 2011)

I had a look at the plugs today, and spent a bit of time at the TE connectivity site
I'm fairly sure I have this right, but take no responsibility if you order these part numbers and they don't fit (I will order some in the next few weeks, and ensure they fit before saying they will fit)

The connector on the battery end of the power lead is marked 206429-1 which is a size 11/4 cpc connector
From that I was able to determine it fits The battery box connector which is 211102-1
The other end is the opposite gender so they are as follows
Spotlight connector is 206061-1
And the spotlight end of the power lead is 206060-1

Both ends of the power lead need a backshell 1-206062-3

Now I just need to get the right part numbers for the pins and sockets inside the connectors

I just need to get a battery pack and charger, then build a box
I have the feeling this is the top of a slippery slope into super lights and building packs


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## CKOD (Aug 21, 2011)

Echo63 said:


> I had a look at the plugs today, and spent a bit of time at the TE connectivity site
> I'm fairly sure I have this right, but take no responsibility if you order these part numbers and they don't fit (I will order some in the next few weeks, and ensure they fit before saying they will fit)
> 
> The connector on the battery end of the power lead is marked 206429-1 which is a size 11/4 cpc connector
> ...


 Your part numbers look good, but both 206430-1 and 211102-1 are the same thing, but the last one has threaded inserts, so you could use a machine screw without a nut. If you are planning on using a nut and bolt, use the first number for the panel mount on the battery box. Slight difference, not a show stopper either way. 


For pins, you could use 66099-4, 66099-3, or 66099-1. Those are all either selective gold or full gold plated which helps it resist oxidization vs the bright tin contacts. 

For sockets, 66101-3 or 66101-4 are both good. They are all crimp pins and sockets, but like I said, its not a problem to solder to them and still stuff them into the housing anyway

They have a high current contact which is rated at 25A instead of 13A, (rating for a single connection, you cant actually do a whole connector with each pole passing 13 or 25A )
pins : 1-66361-4 sockets: 1-66360-4


They have ones meant for soldering also, unsure if those would be as available as the crimp ones or not, but the part numbers are 66180-1 for pins, 66181-1 for solder sockets. 

Your part number for the backshell looks like the right thing, even though its not in the catalog ( :ironic: )
1-206062-4 is what they have listed, and may give different results on various stock house websites. 

For those that want to play around. 1546347-2 is a right angle backshell that can be used. 207490-1 is a cable grip which screws onto the connector, and 207489-1 is a cable boot which goes over the cable grip to make a strain relieved and nicer looking backshell. 


Though none of these are water proof or water resistant as they come from the factory, so if you want to do so, some neutral cure RTV silicone (not acid cure, that will corrode the contacts!) may be in order. "Sensor safe" RTV from the auto parts shop would work.


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## Echo63 (Aug 22, 2011)

Thanks CKOD, I love the helpful community here at CPF
I just have to figure out how many pieces and which bits I want to order.
I'm planning on making a coil cord type power cable, so I can put the battery in my bag rather then carry it with the light
I also want to do a connection point in the car and a longer extension lead
And have a go at making a smaller lighter battery using one of those packs linked a few posts up.

I managed to play with the light over a kilometre, it put a nice spot on the side of the Perth Convention centre, from south perth (from memory around 1100m measured with google earth)


I'm going to try and get a tripod locking plate made up too, I can't see how an aluminum plate with a few keyholes in it is 50-60 dollars (of course mine will be plastic instead)


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## Echo63 (Sep 2, 2011)

Ok these arent "beamshots" as such
but i managed to fog up the bathroom pretty good, and the beam showed up really well (Note - you may be a flashaholic if - you have a shower by torchlight so the extractor fan isnt on, just so you can laugh like a loony at the beams)

Maxabeam at spot setting





Flood setting




and just for a laugh - Flashaholics midnight snack (and first photo of me to appear on CPF)




I will redo this one and try to get the beam to show up a little better (im thinking of buying a smoke machine now)

The Maxabeam reached out and touched the clouds tonight too - will hopefully be able to do some beamshots of that soon

I also finished building my Charger Cable
Banana Plugs on one end, and a Tyco 206429-1 plug on the other end and Jaycar Response Professional Speaker cable (4x 18AWG cores) in the middle
The cable is actually really nice and flexible, coils nicely, and is built to be used hard on a stage, the actual conductors are about the right size for building an actual power cable too (which will see a higher current than charging) having 2 conductors means a bit more reliability too.
I am planning on getting hold of some more plugs and building a few different cables too





The battery on charge





GITD tape around the switch and across the rocker


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## Colonel Sanders (Sep 3, 2011)

Saaaaaweeeeeet! I'm jealous. 

And yes, I take showers by flashlight sometimes too....my wife thinks it odd for some reason but she's weird like that. :ironic:


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## Patriot (Sep 8, 2011)

Congrats on your new spotlight and the fun project tied to it! They sure are unique and interesting devices. I sort of miss owning one when I see fun threads like this.


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## grayhighh (Sep 9, 2011)

Nice pic, like that night snack pic alot !!


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## Echo63 (Sep 9, 2011)

Ok, finally had a chance to do beamshots tonight.
Im not 100% sure where i stood along the bank of the river, so the range may be between 950 metres, and 1050 meters 
the map below shows approximately where the pics were taken (from Gloucester Park on the left - looking at Burswood resort on the right)




All pics shot with a Canon 1dmk4 and 70-200mm lens (not 100% sure of settings as it changed for each pic, but the EXIF is there if you want to have a look)
They have been modified slightly to better represent what my eye saw, the pics make the spot look a little brighter than it appeared to the eye so i have tried to darken it off a little

(oh, and these are all in standard power mode too - i couldnt hold the switch for high and take pictures)

Burswood Casino




A closer look




and some of the Light itself (with a shift in Focus between the building and the light)









Really having fun with this light, i am going to take it out into the forest for a car rally in the next few weeks, hopefully i should be able to get some interesting pics of it then too (not shining it at the cars though, that would be dangerous)


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## DM51 (Sep 9, 2011)

That's a great beamshot, Echo63! 

I'm glad I wasn't in one of those rooms on the 5th floor trying to get some sleep, lol.


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## Echo63 (Sep 10, 2011)

DM51 said:


> That's a great beamshot, Echo63!
> 
> I'm glad I wasn't in one of those rooms on the 5th floor trying to get some sleep, lol.


 Thanks !
It was still pretty early when those pics were taken, around 8:30
It's hard to find a nice place to do beamshots for a light that throws like this one, especially somewhere nice and dark, but thins location looked pretty good (and I was at gloucester park, with the Maxabeam and my camera gear)


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## Walterk (Sep 10, 2011)

Nice pictures, thx


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## Parker VH (Sep 11, 2011)

Glad to see you're likin' the light.


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## Ra (Sep 11, 2011)

Very nice beamshots echo..

I very much like the 'midnight snack' picture!


All the best,

Ra.


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## Echo63 (Sep 11, 2011)

Parker VH said:


> Glad to see you're likin' the light.


 
Thanks again ParkerVH
It's a fun light, seeing that beam pierce the darkness makes me giggle every time.
I have been taking it to work too, I know it will be needed one day (I have needed a good thrower before, only had an SF L2 on me)

Walterk, RA, grayhighh,

Thanks for the comments, I am going to try and continue to do longer and longer beamshots (need to find somewhere with approx 2km of space)
I would also love to do a Lux/CP measurement on this light, from what I understand it's a 75w Gen2, but has one of ParkerVH's adapters and a Ushio UXL75-XE, which i believe is around the same brightness, but because of the bulb shape has less optical arc distortion than the stock bulb, so may have a slightly higher CP

Edit - Just measured my maxabeam (on low - indoors, at 8m - so not a great measurment, will try and do a better one at 100m tonight) Converting from EV to Lux and then to CP gave me a measurement of a little over 3.3 million CP


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## Echo63 (Aug 21, 2012)

A package arrived yesterday





what could it be ?





a Maxabeam - for me ?





2x Maxabeams, the original Gen 2 i purchased months ago before i started this thread, and now a Gen 3, with hard case, spare bulb and 25ft power lead (that conveniently fits both maxabeams)





New Beamshots and New Vs Old comparo to come.

also - the orange cat "Lector" in the pics loves anything bright with a small spot, Lasers, the Maxabeam, SF M4, Ultrastinger - he will chase the spot from them all, even jumping up the walls to chase the spot (he can jump 6 foot in the air easily)


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## fiberguy (Aug 22, 2012)

Looking forward to it!!


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## Colonel Sanders (Sep 4, 2012)

Non-flashaholics always love my Maxabeam the most of everything I show them.


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## Echo63 (Sep 4, 2012)

Colonel Sanders said:


> Non-flashaholics always love my Maxabeam the most of everything I show them.


Everyone who sees mine says either "holy s**t that's bright" or "wtf is that thing"

They are very impressive lights - that needle thin beam of light reaching out for miles is just awesome.


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## FRITZHID (Sep 4, 2012)

I've found that people love mine .......... until they see the price tag. Lol


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## Litbobber (Sep 15, 2012)

Echo63 said:


> A package arrived yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Still waiting for some comparison beam shots.

Thanks


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## Echo63 (Sep 16, 2012)

Litbobber said:


> Still waiting for some comparison beam shots.
> 
> Thanks



Still trying to find the time to do them

Im currently 4000km away from both lights.

i can explain the difference pretty easy - the Gen 2 with ParkerVH adapters and Ushio UXL-75XE throws a very tight intense hotspot - with a slightly dimmer corona - i would imagine there is a hotspot in the arc (the tiny spot) and the rest of the arc forms the tight corona
the Gen3 has a stock Peakbeam bulb and throws a nice even spot a similar size to the corona on the Gen2 

I will hopefully be able to get some pics towards the end of the week (there is some beamshots of the Gen2 at the start of the thread to tide you over)


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## Echo63 (Sep 30, 2012)

Ok heres a Comparo
Gen2 - with Ushio UXL-75XE on the left, and on the right - Gen3 with stock bulb (looks like a rounded arc chamber, but i havent removed it so cant be sure)

This first one shows the difference in beam shape - the Gen2 focuses down to a tiny little spot, with a dimmer corona, whereas the Gen3 doesnt focus down as tightly - i have tried adjusting the bulb focus limits, but it doesnt get any tighter (the Gen2 doesnt have programmable focus limits)





the spots look the same when out of focus


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## BVH (Sep 30, 2012)

Somethings going on with your Gen3. It should out-focus the Gen2 with the Ushio. As you're focusing down, is the hotspot continuing to reduce in size and then you reach the limit?


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## Echo63 (Sep 30, 2012)

BVH said:


> Somethings going on with your Gen3. It should out-focus the Gen2 with the Ushio. As you're focusing down, is the hotspot continuing to reduce in size and then you reach the limit?


BVH - thats as tight as it gets - then it gets bigger again.


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## Ceya! (Oct 1, 2012)

E63, 

Have you found or think what the reason for the issue?

Maybe the seller you got it from may know.

I may get one so Im curious to see why the difference.

S/F,
CEYA!


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## [email protected] (Oct 1, 2012)

BVH said:


> Somethings going on with your Gen3. It should out-focus the Gen2 with the Ushio.



BVH is definitely right here. If you have already tried to override the programmed spot stop (holding the power button followed by rocking the 4-way switch twice forward and attempting to zoom in further) and that is as far forward as it goes, then there is definitely something wrong. There are several possible causes for this but the best place to start would be with the serial number on your searchlight. I'm a new user so I can't send/receive PMs just yet but you could email it to me (just add .com to my username) and I should be able to get you a lot more info on the history of your light.

-Matt


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## Echo63 (Oct 1, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> BVH is definitely right here. If you have already tried to override the programmed spot stop (holding the power button followed by rocking the 4-way switch twice forward and attempting to zoom in further) and that is as far forward as it goes, then there is definitely something wrong. There are several possible causes for this but the best place to start would be with the serial number on your searchlight. I'm a new user so I can't send/receive PMs just yet but you could email it to me (just add .com to my username) and I should be able to get you a lot more info on the history of your light.
> 
> -Matt



Yes i have already tried overiding the programming, it did go a tiny bit smaller, but still not as tight as the Gen2
I am sending you an email now.

as for the photos, that tiny little hotspot in the centre of the Gen2 beam is a smidge over a brick and a half high - maybe 2-3inches across, and the hotspot in the gen 3 beam is 2 bricks across at around 100ft from the light to the wall.

[email protected] - im sending you an email now


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## BVH (Oct 2, 2012)

Hi Matt. Welcome aboard and thanks for participating here! Say hi to Annie for me.


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## [email protected] (Oct 2, 2012)

BVH said:


> Hi Matt. Welcome aboard and thanks for participating here! Say hi to Annie for me.



My pleasure to help out, and I'll let Annie know you said high.

Echo63 - E-mail with some specifics about your lights is on the way.


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## Echo63 (Oct 3, 2012)

Thanks [email protected] 

Matt helped me troubleshoot my light and now it is throwing a spot similar to the my Gen2 

PeakBeams service is great - even for a 6 year old second hand Maxabeam.


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## BVH (Oct 3, 2012)

Glad you got it fixed!


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## Parker VH (Oct 3, 2012)

Peak Beam has always been top notch in their customer service to me as well. Glad it wasn't anything serious.


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