# SPA Defense SPL-120 (Novatac)



## xevious (Jan 14, 2008)

I just received my SPA Defense SPL-120. Not seeing the "P" suffix in the model number imprinted on the side got me worried that I didn't get a programmable. But it is. DEFINITELY. 

I don't know how many companies rebrand the Novatac EDC lights; SPA Defense is the first I've seen do it. The label is all that is different--everything else is pure Novatac. Also, the Novatac website is imprinted on the tail cap. I have to believe Novatac does the imprinting as it looks like the same paint and imprint quality with the regular Novatac brand. It's just a tiny bit uneven--a little paint missing in some of the lettering, but all rather small (you need a loupe to make it out). Overall, it looks clean from the naked eye.

The EDC-120 is very well made (proudly in the USA). The anodized finish is excellent and the knurling really works--good grip without feeling abrasive. The switch on mine is the flat version (not raised like on the tactical model). It has a very good tactile feel and exudes good quality, one of the best I've seen. It feels like you could click it 24 hours a day for weeks on end and it would keep working like it did fresh out of the box. I also like the shape of the light. It naturally curves just where your fingers would want it to. A+ on this design started by HDS. It's a little too thick for a pocketable EDC, though. The clip is meant to secure it to the outside of your trousers, shirt, or jacket. So if you work at a job with a suit, you won't be packing it on your person.

The UI is a little complicated and at first I was lost because there was no manual in the box. SPA Defense sends the light in a thick ziploc bag inside a plain brown box with a rather makeshift label on it. But the good thing is that Novatac provides a manual in PDF form on the website to download, so not all was lost. Before I even got to the manual, I started toying with it... double clicking, triple clicking, click and hold... and sure enough the UI started to reveal itself. I have to say that it's really very well thought out. I only needed to see the manual to learn about the programming and optional modes.

The programming is a bit trickier than accessing the 4 main brightness modes. But once you do it, it seems easy to remember. Just in case anyone is curious:
Off, Single click: On, primary mode.
On, double click: Next mode (factory is a few steps brighter)
On, triple click: Next mode (factory is almost the lowest setting)
On, double click-hold: Next mode (factory is maximum).

If you want to reprogram any of the 4 modes, while it is on you triple-click and hold. After a second, the light begins stepping up until it hits maximum, then goes through 3 of the primary signals, then cycles again from the dimmest setting. When you release the button, the light remains on at your selected setting. Switching off confirms it. If you triple-click and hold, the cycle goes in reverse, from bright to dim... repeating again will reverse the direction.  Got it? 

The options menu is a little more complicated. 4 rapid clicks and hold brings you into the menu. Single click advances you through each option. On a given option, click and hold until you see the brightness step up a few levels then go off. Now that option is active and will remain on until you click off your light. Each has their own particular uses, some very specialized to tactical use, others just plain fun. The dim-to-bright and bright-to-dim step up/down really well, because Novatac built in 22 light levels for the EDC-120. It's a very smooth graduation of levels.

Here are the 9 options:
1. Emergency strobe <flash>
2. Emergency SOS signal <SOS>
3. Locator flash <dim flash>
4. Force setting <long flash>
5. Automatic button lock <three rapid flashes>
6. Automatic turn off <bright-to-dim>
7. Simple momentary <short-long flash>
8. Tactical momentary <short-short-long flash>
9. Ramping/Options menu <dim-to-bright>

Some of these options affect how the light operates while others enable a special flashing mode. One of the modes I really appreciate is the ability to set memory or forced mode. When forced mode is set, the light will be in that mode every time you turn it on. Disabling that enables memory--every time you turn on the light, it resumes the previous brightness or mode setting. This satisfies virtually every user (those who wish to ramp down or ramp up, or want the same mode started every time). 

The brightest setting is 120 lumens. Not the brightest of the bunch these days for a 1xCR123, but it's a VERY usable beam. Super smooth... no rings. Well diffused spot. USABLE in every sense of the word. In this form factor and with all of the programming, this Novatac is a GREAT light.

Beam shots? It's already been done... this is indeed an EDC-120P, so I won't bother with redundancy (plus, I probably wouldn't do a good job of it anyway).

Now I know what the attraction is all about, having the light in my hands finally. :twothumbs Me like! :goodjob: Novatac.


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## iTorch (Jan 15, 2008)

Wicked, I want to get a 120P as soon as I can raise the spare dosh-spent a bit much on xmas pressies plus vacation, but soon, in the next month or so...where did you get yours from and what was the price?


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## Beastmaster (Jan 15, 2008)

He got his from SPA Defense. Unfortunately, many orders (mine included) were rejected and the money returned.

-Steve


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## xevious (Jan 15, 2008)

Beastmaster said:


> He got his from SPA Defense. Unfortunately, many orders (mine included) were rejected and the money returned.
> 
> -Steve


Yeah, it may have been that because I was order #3, they let me through... It was held up on a inventory backlog for a while and I was anticipating that I'd receive a cancellation notice like others reported. It was a very good price--$125 shipped. However, you can buy slightly used ones from CPF members on average at $130. I made my decision to buy from SPA Defense before I knew about Novatac's warranty--you don't need to prove where you bought it. I'd rather buy one from a veteran board member who sells the light with honesty upfront about the characteristics (beam tint, function reliability, etc.), avoiding the chance of getting one that might have initial problems (who needs the hassle of sending it in when you can avoid it completely).

The other thing is, mine has the "SPA Defense" name on it... which could be good or bad depending on your perspective. One person might say "I want to see 'Novatac' on the side" while another would claim "I'm one of the few with a different brand on this EDC!" 

I'd prefer to have "Novatac" imprinted on it, but I like this light so much that I sincerely doubt I'll sell it anytime soon.


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## 9volt (Jan 23, 2008)

Could you post a pic of this light with its different label? Or email it to me and I'll host it?


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## 9volt (Jan 23, 2008)

Does it look like this?


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## xevious (Jan 23, 2008)

You got it--that's the light I received, with the exception of the clip; I have the more streamlined version. And on the tail cap, "www.novatac.com" along with "Made in USA" is imprinted. The SPA Defense website shows the shot you're displaying, and a bezel standing shot, but the tail cap inscriptions are photo edited out.

http://www.spa-defense.com/images/rollover images/page_content/slp120/slp_120_features_r1_c2_f3.jpg

http://www.spa-defense.com/images/rollover images/page_content/slp120/slp_120_overview.jpg

_Hot linked images changed to links_


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## xevious (Jan 23, 2008)

I finally got a response back from the NovaTac service director--the SPL-120 is definitely covered by Novatac's lifetime warranty. SPA Defense had claimed this, but I just wanted to be sure.


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## xevious (Jan 24, 2008)

Also, I had heard rumor that more recent versions of the EDC-120P have some kind of thread lock applied to the bezel threads, so it's extremely hard to remove it. But I was able to remove the bezel on my SPL-120 after using some heavy duty textured rubber (for opening jars), which of course was a relief--resorting to more risky means like vice grips and subjecting the light to extreme temperatures would make me nervous about doing damage beyond the bezel. My SPL-120 is from a new production batch, fresh from NovaTac.

Maybe NovaTac changed its methods on securing the bezel in the latest models? Certainly, it was mounted tight enough that it would never come off without strong deliberate force. Thread lock is overkill, IMHO.


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## troller_cpf (Dec 16, 2009)

I just received my SPL-120 (SPL-120 AWLK), but in NO WAY it is programmable.

I mean. It only has 3 modes: high (120 lum), low (10 lum), and CQB strobe.

I click once and it turns on into it's max setting.
Then from that mode:
if I click it turns off
if I double-click it goes into the low mode
from both modes if I press/hold it goes in momentary CQB strobe, while if I click and then press/hold it goes in continuos CQB strobe.

But that's all.
There is no way to program it, nor to find the 4 levels and the 22 levels programmable...


I ordered it from an E-Bay seller. The package seems original 100%, it came with the Picatinny rail mount, IR filter, Remote pressure switch...

what do you think?

thanks!


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## xevious (Feb 9, 2010)

You may have gotten the lesser version which is not programmable. However, there might be a way to "unleash" the programming.

See this thread, here:
NovaTac EDC T and E Models CRACKED! Back Door/Easter egg found!


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## southernstar (Apr 16, 2010)

troller_cpf said:


> I just received my SPL-120 (SPL-120 AWLK), but in NO WAY it is programmable.!



The Novatac SPL-120 AWLK was made for the US Army. At their request, Novatac removed the 0.3l (3 clicks) setting, and did not make it programmable. It can be hacked using the 250 click back door.

There are also 3 generations Novatac made for the US Army, each with a subtle change at the client's request.

Gen1 has a steel black-oxide bezel. Programming is [email protected] click, [email protected] clicks, Disorienting [email protected] 2click/press-hold

Gen2 has an aluminum bezel anodized to match the body. The Army also requested the head be locked to the battery tube to cut down on "movable parts". program remains the same.

Gen3 is the same as Gen2, but the bezel was elongated to accommodate a bezel up pocket clip, although no clip was requested or provided in the kit.


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## JohnnyBravo (Jul 23, 2017)

Just bought a new/old stock one for $40-something shipped. This will be my first Novatac. I don't plan to use the weapon hardware, just the light as part of my EDC rotation. I'm on a made in USA roll and trying to increase such lights in my collection...


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## Kazik (Aug 1, 2017)

I've had one in my collection for like 4 years - and bought it used. It's a great light and Novatac/HDS UI makes it unique. Changed SSC P4 (if I remember correctly) with XM-L2 and now it's about 400lm on max. It's got a nice floody beam, good for EDC tasks. The only downfalls are: it's size - bigger than other CR123 flashlights and second thing - quality. It's OK, but not top notch. HDS feels WAY more sturdy and I managed to damage one spring by just screwing down the cap (with battery inserted of course). The coating on bezel came off, the body coating is fine (I've golden version ). I've got a 18650 tube for it, but it's get BULKY with it, never used it. 
Generally - great light, it made flashlight history - especially when it comes to programmable lights


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## JohnnyBravo (Aug 20, 2017)

Just got back from a trip out of state to Utah. Left the Surefires at home; had to break in the new Novatac. Used the low setting 1-2 x to adjust the hotel's thermostat and once more to check under the bed before checking out. The tint/color of the light is borderline too cool for me, but I'll continue to rotate the light in my EDC stable...


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## ven (Aug 21, 2017)

LED swap Johny would be an option for you. The nichia 219b and 219c work very well with these little lights. The lumens bump up to double or even triple(my 120's anyway) presumably down to the lower vf. My SPA120 actuall had a nice cool white, pure white in tint so i could have lived with it as is. Still the 219c 5000k(ano strip has the 219b 4000k so wanted a different version) 80+ cri makes me want to use it more. Mine were done in the UK by CRX up Scotland, your side gunga is the man if you decide. 






SPA120 219c 5000k Ano stripped 120 219b 4000k..................love them! 









iirc(figures are on here in the history thread) , the SPA of mine measured around 60lm on high, after the 219c 5000k it measured over 200lm. The bare 120 measured around 100lm on burst, now over 300lm. Both the low levels bumped to a very usable 25lm ish(for me).


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## jon_slider (Aug 22, 2018)

ven said:


> LED swap Johny would be an option for you. The nichia 219b and 219c work very well with these little lights. The lumens bump up to double or even triple
> ...
> the SPA of mine measured around 60lm on high, after the 219c 5000k it measured over 200lm. The bare 120 measured around 100lm on burst, now over 300lm. Both the low levels bumped to a very usable 25lm ish(for me).



hmmm, my SPA seems to max out at 70 lumens.. add a Nichia 219b and get double?.. that cant be bad 

I must say, Im so glad its dark again,
really fun having access to ramp brightness on the fly

Im getting better at triple press hold (the way it says in the Tactical Manual), aka double click hold (in the Executive Manual)

almost as easy as dialing a Rotary.. 

===

SPA Defense SPL-120 Tactical with 16340 battery, high mode drain test, to verify Novatac LiIon overdischarge protection

starting with a half depleted battery, at 3.67v the light ran on maximum of 71 lumens hi for 31 minutes then stepped down to 40 lumens at 3.2 volts

about a. minute later it stepped down again, to 19 lumens @ 3.11v and I ended the test and reloaded a fresh 16340

this confirms the light is properly configured to recognize the LiIon battery and implements Low Voltage warnings at 3.2 volts. I like it. 

and I agree with bansuri, and you, that the SSC P4 has a nice tight beam
he has a very detailed post about it here


bansuri said:


> The beam profile of the old SSC P4 lights was beautiful despite the blue tint. The P4 emitter lent itself perfectly to a great beam by allowing the reflector to sit down on the emitter body and get the dome right where it needed to be



Im a bit disappointed the light does not meet the 120 lumen spec.. sounds like ven's copy is actually similar.. oh well, lumens are overrated.. lol


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## ven (Aug 22, 2018)

Lumens are just a number Jon, 70, 120, 240....................end of the day, its quality of beam, how it is put down field(figure of speech.............could be garden). Just a number, most of the time, outside with a decent designed reflector(like these for size) puts out a good all rounder imo. Maybe 25-35lm is enough tbh. 

My memory is useless....................well almost, i remembered i had posted the exact numbers(well which relate to each other) in hondo's awesome thread.

As follows
Ano stripped 120e
Previous measurements
Low – 10 lm, 140 cd
High – 30 lm, 420 cd
Turbo – 106 lm, 1520 cd

[FONT=&quot]
Now with 219bt 4000k
[/FONT]Low – 26 lm, 280 cd
High – 100 lm, 950 cd
Turbo – 310 lm, 3100 

Copy and paste from here Jon.....................fantastic read, if not read already get stuck in!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?426231-A-brief-history-of-the-HDS-universe


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## ven (Aug 22, 2018)

The SPA was actually worse than my memory(gold)
Before 
High – 54lm 
Low – 8lm
After Nichia 219C D280 5000k 80CRI
High – 220lm 
Low – 38lm

A jump from 54lm to 220lm which is quite a jump.


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## ven (Aug 22, 2018)

I put it down to the lower vf, newer emitter.......................and witch craft. Either way, measurements might not be exact, but they are measured on the same set up which shows the difference.


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## Lithium466 (Aug 22, 2018)

I think Novatac must have used the cheapest emitters they could get, at the end of their life...coupled with no calibration.


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## jon_slider (Aug 22, 2018)

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...HDS-universe&p=5085788&viewfull=1#post5085788


ven said:


> Good thing for me now is i can just click and every time i get around 26lm of usefulness. As i dont do sub lumen, it works out pretty much perfect as a general user.


your SPA @54 lumens is even more pathetically out of spec than mine @70 lumens.. but, like you, I mostly use about 20 lumens.. I do also enjoy the option to use 3 lumens at times..

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...HDS-universe&p=5115333&viewfull=1#post5115333


ven said:


> Even more proof Hondo, that a more to date LED does give out more lumens.
> ...
> The actual cool LED in originally was imo quite good. By that i mean it was a pure white



I agree the stock P4 in the SPA is pretty nice and white, not too green, not too blue.. but, the promise of 3x the lumens from a 219b and the CRI increase.. well.. you definitely got my attention.. thanks for digging up the data



Lithium466 said:


> no calibration.



very true!
of course that means double the runtime :thumbsup:

I feel an urge for a Nichia swap into my SPA.. great conversations, thanks to everyone contributing


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## Lithium466 (Aug 22, 2018)

54 or 70 lumens instead of 120, even if we're talking about "uncertified" measurements is indeed pretty pathetic - not that Novatac is still around though, only thing to do is change the led^^
Would you have the opportunity to measure the tailcap current on lowest and highest mode ?


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## jon_slider (Aug 22, 2018)

Lithium466 said:


> Would you have the opportunity to measure the tailcap current on lowest and highest mode ?



I have no experience or training, but if this meter is capable, and youre avaible to coach me, I would be happy to learn how






additional SPA trivia

when I did the battery discharge on high mode, I was impressed that the light held constant flat regulated output of 71 lumens the entire time until the stepdown.. there were just small continuous fluctuations +- 1 lumen on my meter, not visible with naked eye


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## Lithium466 (Aug 22, 2018)

Yup the Novatac is ok-regulated. The HDS is supposedly better, but the Novatac is already good.

The meter could do it, but you'll need an extra set of hands, and some more wires. Let me try to figure it out first


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## jon_slider (Aug 23, 2018)

ven said:


> Lumens are just a number Jon, 70, 120, 240....................end of the day, its quality of beam, how it is put down field(figure of speech.............could be garden). Just a number, most of the time, outside with a decent designed reflector(like these for size) puts out a good all rounder imo. Maybe 25-35lm is enough tbh.
> 
> My memory is useless....................well almost, i remembered i had posted the exact numbers(well which relate to each other) in hondo's awesome thread.
> 
> ...



4 times more output with the 219c 5k 

I look forward to hearing you managed to ramp down your SPA to 20 lumens on first click.


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## ven (Aug 23, 2018)

jon_slider said:


> I look forward to hearing you managed to ramp down your SPA to 20 lumens on first click.



I am not sure how old you are Jon, how many roughly and to be expected years left to enjoy............................I wish you luck in what your looking forward to hearing


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## bigburly912 (Aug 23, 2018)

ven said:


> I am not sure how old you are Jon, how many roughly and to be expected years left to enjoy............................I wish you luck in what your looking forward to hearing



hahahaha i feel the same way ven. Ive given up on programming mine. Ill carry it, (carrying it today actually along with another HDS I bought, LE edition 200.) but I will just have to enjoy it for what it is. 250 clicks I do not have the patience for.


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## ven (Aug 23, 2018)

I have some lights that are single mode(high), some come on in high with lower modes(EDC+ for one). I have lights that come on in low, or ones that are programmed at a set level chosen by me. I like choices /options/variety, so it’s all fine for me as it is. It’s not like it’s an eye searing 3000lm single mode. It’s just 250, less than a typical Malkoff single mode p60(other than the lows). It is actually a useful al round type of output I use outdoors. I would say out of the h17f drivers, most will be there or about in output(although different beam type).


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## jon_slider (Aug 23, 2018)

southernstar said:


> The Novatac SPL-120 AWLK was made for the US Army. At their request, Novatac removed the 0.3l (3 clicks) setting, and did not make it programmable. It can be hacked using the 250 click back door.
> 
> There are also 3 generations Novatac made for the US Army, each with a subtle change at the client's request.
> 
> ...



Apparently Novatac and their SPA Defense line, was a US company selling the US Govt lights made in China :



Hogokansatsukan said:


> All of the SPA Defense lights were made in China.



The same happens with the Maratac lights, a California company has them made in China, and sells them to the US Defense Dept.


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## Lithium466 (Aug 23, 2018)

Where does the 120M fit in these different gens?


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## jon_slider (Aug 23, 2018)

Lithium466 said:


> Where does the 120M fits in these different gens?



I believe it came after the SPA models, and is the only one with a pocket clip, more details here
but it is not marked Spa made in USA


Lost Hawaiian said:


> Below you can see the differences in tailcaps, springs, contacts, etc.
> From left to right: 120P, 85P, SPL-120, 120M


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## xevious (Feb 21, 2019)

Interesting. There must have been an early transition period where SPA Defense received essentially unbranded NovaTac 120P's and just engraved their name on it. So for all intents and purposes, it would actually be a NovaTac 120P... until later on, when production changes were made. Because when I look at my SPL-120 taken apart, the tail cap matches the NovaTac branded 120P, not the SPL-120 shown in the photo. Mine also happens to be colored in dark green, not that desert sand color.


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## Weld Inspector (Jun 15, 2019)

I just received an SPL120 today and I'm surprised by how pleased I am with a 120 lumen light the knurling is very grabby, the size is great, tint and beam are very pleasant, UI is dif from the majority of my lights but 2 levels is actually very usable


makes me even more interested in hds which I have yet to get my hands on


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## Lithium466 (Jun 15, 2019)

The rabbit hole!

Or a bottomless illuminated pit ?

Unlock your Novatac/SPA with the 250 clicks trick and get a taste of HDS UI


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## Weld Inspector (Jun 15, 2019)

250 clicks? Really?

Also I cant seen to remove that battery tube from the head


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## Bullzeyebill (Jun 15, 2019)

Head does not come off. Battery change only through tail.

Bill


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## Weld Inspector (Jun 15, 2019)

Bullzeyebill said:


> Head does not come off. Battery change only through tail.
> 
> Bill



So those are both other models in the last pic in this thread?


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## Lithium466 (Jun 15, 2019)

I's glued with red thread locker, apply enough heat and you can remove it...but remove the electronics before.

Yes 250 clicks will allow you to enter the customization menu and enable programming, see LLcoolbeans Novatac cracked thread (sorry no link not very talented with smartphone).


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## thermal guy (Jun 16, 2019)

It’s in post 11 of this thread. 😁


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## xevious (Jun 16, 2019)

Weld Inspector said:


> So those are both other models in the last pic in this thread?


Both the original NovaTac 120P and the SPA Defense SPL-120 have the same basic parts design. Battery is changed by removing the tail cap, as BullzeyeBill mentioned. Just be mindful of the screw threads. I always rotate CCW for a bit until I find the "lead in" and start rotating CW. Also, because of the tension from the spring, it's a good idea to press down a little as you turn to help alleviate stress on the threads. If you have some o-ring lubricant, apply a little the threads to help keep them smooth.

The NovaTac is the first "high volume" sold programmable flashlight. It was a major milestone in LED flashlights. 

EDITED for corrections, thanks to Hogokansatsukan.

Henry Schneiker, the original creator of HDS Systems had conceived of it and was approached to take it to a more mainstream market (predominantly tactical). It was branded NovaTac at that time. Unfortunately it wasn't managed well and fell apart. Henry broke away from the initiative and then NovaTac fell apart not long after. In picking up the pieces, some enterprising people licensed the design to a company in China that churned out the "NovaTac Storm" and a number of other form factors to include different battery types. It was a cheaper version of essentially the same light (internally). 

The NovaTac was released in 85 and 120 lumens options, and came in several models, "E" (executive), "P" (programmable), and "T" (tactical). The Spa Defense SPL-120 is essentially the tactical NovaTac 120T with just a few brightness levels. But like it was already mentioned, the "Easter Egg" is that these lights all have the programming inside, released by doing 250 consecutive clicks. It's a pain in the butt, but you do it one time and that's it. The programming UI is not intuitive and you need to read through the topics to find a link to the manual. Most people don't really bother much with it. You can "reprogram" brightness levels rather easily, without having to go into the full programming menu.

If you do decide to get into the programming menu, it is a bit of a rabbit hole. You'll be amazed at all the things you can set with this flashlight. And if you're intrigued, but a little put off by the complexity, there are newer flashlights out today with even better programmable user interfaces. NarsilM and Anduril are some of the most popular right now (I prefer Anduril).


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## Hogokansatsukan (Jun 17, 2019)

xevious said:


> The NovaTac is the first "high volume" sold programmable flashlight. It was a major milestone in LED flashlights. Henry Schneider, the original creator, broke off from NovaTac and formed his own company called HDS Systems that's still making lights today based on this technology..



Actually, Henry Schneiker has owned and run HDS Systems since the 90's, designing, manufacturing, and selling flashlights long before NovaTac. Henry designed the NT light based upon his previous work when he was approached by someone promising venture capital and streamlined manufacturing, however this quickly fell apart before the first NovaTac shipped. Henry went on to continue to design and build lights. NT did not last long after this.

The NovaTac was a redesigned HDS Systems EDC Ultimate with a couple minor changes to the user interface which is why the back door 250 click was still in the NovaTac as it had been in the HDS Systems EDC Basic. The NovaTac electronics were an inferior constant current system, not constant power.


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## xevious (Jun 17, 2019)

Hogokansatsukan said:


> Actually, Henry Schneiker has owned and run HDS Systems since the 90's, designing, manufacturing, and selling flashlights long before NovaTac. Henry designed the NT light based upon his previous work when he was approached by someone promising venture capital and streamlined manufacturing, however this quickly fell apart before the first NovaTac shipped. Henry went on to continue to design and build lights. NT did not last long after this.
> 
> The NovaTac was a redesigned HDS Systems EDC Ultimate with a couple minor changes to the user interface which is why the back door 250 click was still in the NovaTac as it had been in the HDS Systems EDC Basic. The NovaTac electronics were an inferior constant current system, not constant power.


Thanks for the correction. I checked back to verify and you're mostly correct. HDS Systems has been in business since the 1980's but incorporated its name in 1997. A few years after that, Henry had set aside his business for the NovaTac venture. But when that didn't go the way he wanted, he bailed out and restarted HDS Systems. At least according to the "Brief History of the HDS Universe."


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## Hogokansatsukan (Jun 17, 2019)

xevious said:


> Thanks for the correction. I checked back to verify and you're mostly correct. HDS Systems has been in business since the 1980's but incorporated its name in 1997. A few years after that, Henry had set aside his business for the NovaTac venture. But when that didn't go the way he wanted, he bailed out and restarted HDS Systems. At least according to the "Brief History of the HDS Universe."



I'm getting my info directly from Henry (who is sitting next to me right now) and as the previous Production Supervisor of NT in Tucson.


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## bigburly912 (Jun 17, 2019)

I thought everyone knew who you were Hogo. Haha enjoying this thread regardless


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## thermal guy (Jun 17, 2019)

“Your information is mostly correct “ 

😂😂😂😂. I’m peeing now. I’m actually peeing!!!


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## xevious (Jun 17, 2019)

Hogokansatsukan said:


> I'm getting my info directly from Henry (who is sitting next to me right now) and as the previous Production Supervisor of NT in Tucson.





Bigburly912 said:


> I thought everyone knew who you were Hogo. Haha enjoying this thread regardless





thermal guy said:


> “Your information is mostly correct “





thermal guy said:


> I’m peeing now. I’m actually peeing!!!



:shrug: 
Wow ok. Guess that write-up has some erroneous info. No emoticon for foot in mouth. I'll go now...


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## thermal guy (Jun 17, 2019)

No no. Just good old boys having fun. Don’t take it personal.


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## archimedes (Jun 17, 2019)

thermal guy said:


> “Your information is mostly correct “ ....





Bigburly912 said:


> I thought everyone knew who you were Hogo. Haha enjoying this thread regardless



Yeah, I was kinda thinking, hmmmm ... :thinking:


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## Hogokansatsukan (Jun 17, 2019)

xevious said:


> :shrug:
> Wow ok. Guess that write-up has some erroneous info. No emoticon for foot in mouth. I'll go now...



LOL! Don't worry! It's not a big deal. There are a lot of folks on the forum and it's not possible to know everyone.
NT was actually some dark days for Henry and myself, but it is how we met and formed our friendship. Henry and I work together at HDS every Monday (sometimes other days of the week as well). He told me to put up or shut up about production delays (and other things) that I often bitched about regarding HDS, and so we partnered up about a year and half ago. He now gets to ***** at me about production delays and lack of parts... Rotary 18680 tube cough cough! I also run the HDS FB page, moderate (and I use that term very loosely) the HDS Section here in CPF. Feel free to join us in that section! We are an odd lot, and I can get cantankerous, but I mean well.

Edit just to add photo:
Here are some lights I took a photo of today from Henry's shelf (except the Rotary is mine).


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## InvisibleFrodo (Jun 17, 2019)

I didn’t realize you where ever at NT, Hogo. Guess I haven’t been around here that long. Interesting...


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## thermal guy (Jun 18, 2019)

Not wanting to get off track but Something I’m not clear on. HOGO was Henry “forced “ to make the twisty light after he left NT? I’m thinking thats what I heard. Something about he needed to make a light unlike his old design first. Could be way off here.


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## Hogokansatsukan (Jun 18, 2019)

He wasn't forced to but lawsuits were flying around like food in Animal House. It is also why for a year or so, HDS Systems went under the name Ra Lights.


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## thermal guy (Jun 18, 2019)

Makes sense. Thanks


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## xevious (Jun 20, 2019)

thermal guy said:


> No no. Just good old boys having fun. Don’t take it personal.


Oh... alright. :ironic:   The dampening field of the Internet can often make it hard to tell, depending upon how well you know folks.


Hogokansatsukan said:


> LOL! Don't worry! It's not a big deal. There are a lot of folks on the forum and it's not possible to know everyone.
> NT was actually some dark days for Henry and myself, but it is how we met and formed our friendship. Henry and I work together at HDS every Monday (sometimes other days of the week as well). He told me to put up or shut up about production delays (and other things) that I often bitched about regarding HDS, and so we partnered up about a year and half ago. He now gets to ***** at me about production delays and lack of parts... Rotary 18680 tube cough cough! I also run the HDS FB page, moderate (and I use that term very loosely) the HDS Section here in CPF. Feel free to join us in that section! We are an odd lot, and I can get cantankerous, but I mean well.
> 
> Edit just to add photo:
> Here are some lights I took a photo of today from Henry's shelf (except the Rotary is mine). PHOTO


Quite alright -- I just felt like an idiot... 3rd party write-ups are seldom completely correct and can at times mislead. Very interesting to know about your history with Henry! A long while back I once had an Ultimate 60 but let it go... and in hindsight, wish I'd kept it and just had the emitter upgraded. It's great to see Henry's creation are still in strong demand. Really solid lights compared to what's out there (I'd take an HDS Rotary with me in the field over a Jetbeam RRT-01 any day).


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## desert.snake (Jun 6, 2020)

And a little necroinformation about Novatac "SPA Defence" SPL-120 - I have a version with 3 modes - strobe, 120 lm, 10 lm. But today I found that there are 4 modes. If the modes are indicated as A (strobe) B (120 lm) C (10 lm) and D, then C and D are the same and = 10 lm. Found it this way - if I make 1 click from off, I will turn on the flashlight in mode B, if I make 2 clicks, then I’ll go into C mode. If I make 3 clicks from mode B, I will go to D, and if I make 2 clicks, then return with B. If I make 3 clicks from C, then the brightness will not change. If I make 2 clicks from D mode, then the brightness will not change - I returned to C. That is, mode D exists and does not differ from mode C.


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## Lithium466 (Jun 6, 2020)

Good piece of information, it actually makes sense that they did it that way, when we know their limited budget for these models.


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## desert.snake (Jun 6, 2020)

Yes, and I hacked it now with 250 clicks according https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...E-Models-CRACKED!-Back-Door-Easter-egg-found!
My fingers are not very hardy, so I just put the button on the table and worked with 2 hands at the same time. Now reconfigured all 4 levels as I want


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## Lithium466 (Jun 6, 2020)

That's exactly the light I have on my desk right now  SPL-120 "250 clicked", with a Luxeon high CRI emitter. The UI is still very nice after all these years!


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## desert.snake (Jun 6, 2020)

Cool! Luxeon has a beautiful beam  I found Seoul here - 3000K and 93 CRI, 30 thousand in stock https://www.digikey.com/product-det...or-inc/N42180-06-S2/N42180-06-S2CT-ND/4356544 and I’m thinking, is it worth it?


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## Lithium466 (Jun 6, 2020)

That Seoul would be a nice drop in replacement, but you'll loose power. They also have a "wide variety of tint" in the beam, not unpleasant, but it's there. I still miss my Seoul High-CRI HDS...bought two used, first one needed warranty repair and I ended up with a new light (high Noon)...second one I haven't sent yet for warranty  (but it needs to)


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