# MG PLI MC-E *review + beamshots*



## Linger (May 5, 2009)

I was lucky enough to get a MG pli mc-e! (pre-release, from Shiningbeam)





(I'd been checking daily, waiting on the MC-E l-mini and missed it b/c I presenting at a conference. Brain was sympathetic at hooking me up with the mc-e MG PLI). _It is adjustable see subsequent posts re: adjustment_

Packaged included clicky (presumably forward), lanyard, boot caps, o-rings, belt holster. Totally decent set of accessories.

The pli is heavy. The battery tube is square, so 4 flat surfaces, one inscribed 'MG Brighten your world,' the other with a small + and a small - at opposite ends. There is an aggressive strike bezel, edges properly ground and rounded so it won't cut the holster.
Double o-ring seals, very nice. The fit is excellent, the o-rings set such that the caps slides into place - this is important as the tail-cap spring is very prominent (presumably to accept the smaller 17xxx cell, there will be no issues with any 18650 cell) and really has to be compressed - however the fit + orings is so well placed there is no issues with threading at all.
No knurling at all. Very positive grip with the head/tailcap features, square tube. The light doesn't feel great in the hand, may take some getting used too. Minimal design / decorative features, overall impression is that the light is very plain. Body appears to have good heatsinking, prominent cooling fins around the engine area.

3 mode, low - med - high. (No strobe, no sos)
reverse clicky, 1/2 press to change modes.
The light does warm up quickly on high, but subjective impression is that it has heat does not rise during extended run-time. No cooling was used (light on table for beamshots), appears to have more then sufficient passive cooling for this output.

It's quite a different beast from the l-mini (or Ultrafire HCU-h7--Saberwolf modded mc-e mini-edc). Shiningbeam writes the pli is geared toward cycling. From some white-wall hunting, the deep reflector is effective at throwing the flood. It puts that multi-dye 'wall of light' a good distance out front. It's an intermediate light, projects a volume of light to mid distance.
Same 'white' as my jetbeamIII Pro ST, very white.
Fairly tight beam, no hot spot, but a large corona.
Slight darkspot (no donut, no traditional mc-e hole). _It is adjustable, from a 'large hotspot' to a pure flood, see subsequent posts re: adjustment_

Just took some beam-shot comparison pics, going out for a bike ride now (had to wait for night time) review upcoming.

Lights used for tonight




MG PLI mc-e (bin?)
JetIII ProSt
MCU-C7 (Saberwolf modified 'mini-edc,' a warm MC-E pocket sunburst, my favourite ligth!)
xZoom (Dx's flood to zoom light), an aspherical zoom light, p4 emittor, 18650, 1 mode
Packhorse modified IST, aspherical lens, 2 modes (~1050ma and 50ma, 18650)





MG Pli (high), (Jet off), (mcu off), xZoom (spot), Ist (high)






Pli, Jet, both on high. large bright corona of Pli dwarfs hotspot of Jetbeam. Lights angled up from hoizontal, ~3ft from off white wall






MG Pli (mc-e), JetIIIproSt, MCU mc-e, xZoom, Packhorse's Ist
with the mc-e's, we can see the Pli has a much more focues beam then the hcu which really fades near the edges. The Jetbeam (on max) is overwhelmed. The xZoom on full spot is incredible, that tiny spot won't be outdone, however that's all it's got. Ist is less focused and has a corona of some usable spill. All lights ~2.5feet from off white wall, comparison's are OK, absolute tones are not.






mc-e's, the deep reflector of the pli really showing off here with a concentrated bright center

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/linger_li/100_1627.jpg

*[over-size image replaced by link - DM51]*
(**edit - I'm sorry, thank-you for interveening for me. resized pic reosted)






Jetbeam (left), Pli (right). I love'd the jetbeam, thought it was a great thrower, until I met the PLI. Comparing the JetIIIst and the PLI mc-e isn't easy. PLI is an excellent multi-die light that puts this 'wall of light' +20, +60 feet out. You can't see from the piture but the PLI lit up the whole backyard. The jetIII has a small spot that goes far, the PLI lights up the whole area. It's beam seems to have some staying power, so instead of showing a spot on a tree it lights up the whole tree and the one on each side of it too. I will try to get distance figures tomrorow.


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## lightbug (May 5, 2009)

*Re: MG PLI MC-E*

Excellent beam shots :twothumbs

Actually PLI is adjustable on beam, you can loose or tighten the head and that'll change the output beam pattern. The threads of the body tube is long enough, you can easily loose up half turn without problem.
The modes are low>mid>high, exactly like the MC-E RX-1. The emitter is the M-bin WC MC-E.


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## Linger (May 5, 2009)

*Re: MG PLI MC-E*

thanx, will try this now!
Best,
L


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## sol-leks (May 5, 2009)

*Re: MG PLI MC-E*

this looks awesome, anyone know what the pricing on this guy is going to be?


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## Linger (May 5, 2009)

*Re: MG PLI MC-E*

Bike / walking tests - WOW. I'm very impressed with the PLI and large volume of light it manages to throw out.

If I can force manual settings, I'll get some better beam-shots tonight.

re: adjustable beam - OK, i've taken the suggestion and turned the bezel a bit, I'm just not to sure how much of an impact this is supposed to have.

Turning bezel, does succeed in eliminating darkness near center of beam. I was outside so perhaps not the best place to try this.,,,however also, I was outside and didn't notice that much of an effect so how much effect could their have been?
I'm undecided on the 'adjustible' feature of the pli.


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## TAIGERSX (May 5, 2009)

*Re: MG PLI MC-E*

Could you tell me how can I get one ?


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## greenLED (May 5, 2009)

*Re: MG PLI MC-E*

Holy poop, Barman! the day finally arrived...

I read the title of this thread and went :wth: is he talking about?


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## Linger (May 5, 2009)

*Adjustable beam explained*

The PLI goes normal (big corona) to pure flood.

The adjustment, as lightbug explained to me, is rotating the bezel b/c there is a lot of room on the threading. This draws the reflector up higher, eventually past the emittor. The result is a pure flood beam.

fully tightened (maximum reflector) there is a slightly darker center as a bright halo surrounds.
begin twisting, that the dark spot turns into a 'lit x' with a brighter cross pattern
keep twisting, progressively less bright center
fully open there is no brightness in the center, just a uniform flood / moon beam. (bezel still very secure)

This is a bit of a re-conception on adjustment; instead of focusing more light, it simply removes the focused light from play. It's very interesting. The PLI is so bright, the flood beam may be exceptional for riding. What got me was I was expecting the lost lumens to appear somewhere else, instead of just removing the bright center with-out re-distributing that output anywhere.


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## Linger (May 5, 2009)

*Re: MG PLI MC-E*



greenLED said:


> Holy poop, Barman! the day finally arrived...
> 
> I read the title of this thread and went :wth: is he talking about?



Heh, edited thread title. I knew I was lucky as hell to get one pre-release, so i've felt compelled to put as much information back out there to the cpf community.

I've tried beam-shots of the adjustment but they had not turned out yet.


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## Linger (May 5, 2009)

*Re: MG PLI MC-E*



TAIGERSX said:


> Could you tell me how can I get one ?


They'll be carried by Shiningbeam


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## sol-leks (May 5, 2009)

*Re: MG PLI MC-E*

Any ideas as to pricing?


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## TAIGERSX (May 5, 2009)

*Re: MG PLI MC-E*



sol-leks said:


> Any ideas as to pricing?


 
High 50. It should be listed by tomorrow.


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## sol-leks (May 5, 2009)

*Re: MG PLI MC-E*

Wow cheaper then the other mg mc-e light on shiningbeam? Wow this light sounds like a winner.


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## Linger (May 6, 2009)

yeah, should be cheaper than the MG RX-1 (the big thrower that's up there)


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## TSD (May 7, 2009)

Lumen output for each mode and the respective runtimes for the different battery options would be greatly appreciated! The output, size, and function of this light seem excellent for most general applications, I'm just waiting to make sure it is reasonably efficient before pulling the trigger. 

Just in case someone isn't aware, this light is now listed on shiningbeams site. I think this might be just the light I've been waiting for.


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## p1mrx (May 7, 2009)

TSD said:


> Lumen output for each mode and the respective runtimes for the different battery options would be greatly appreciated!



The specs claim this light is constant-current regulated to 2500mA on a single 18650 cell, down to 2.8V.

I also want to see some evidence to back this claim before I'll consider buying the light.

As far as I can tell, there are a lot of 18650 P7/MCE lights out there which claim to be 700+ lumens, and claim to be regulated, but in reality are neither.


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## Linger (May 7, 2009)

TSD said:


> Lumen output for each mode and the respective runtimes for the different battery options would be greatly appreciated!


 
Anyone able to do this?

I'll see what I can manage tonight. No lux / lumen ratings as I don't have a light box, but I may be able to pull some info off my camera with repeated beam shots over time.



TSD said:


> The output, size, and function of this light seem excellent for most general applications,.


I agree. I was thinking it would be a ~350 lumen light before I recieved it. Hopefully you still have the pleasent suprise when you buy yours and find the real thing out-performs your expectations.



TSD said:


> I'm just waiting to make sure it is reasonably efficient before pulling the trigger.
> Just in case someone isn't aware, this light is now listed on shiningbeams site. I think this might be just the light I've been waiting for.


 
hmmm. I'll see what I can do. I've used it riding two nights now and during the end of the ride it seems as bright (compaired to passing car headlights) as it is at the start. Of course my subjective impressions could be way off.


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## Forgoten214 (May 7, 2009)

I just ordered mine, I'd like to know the actually lumens and lux as well.


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## Linger (May 7, 2009)

TSD said:


> Lumen output for each mode and the respective runtimes for the different battery options would be greatly appreciated!



I mentioned I'd try a regulation run-time test. I charged two brand new AW's up and set up a MG PLI vs. JetIIIProSt. 




I set a camera to manual and thought I would have fixed levels allowing a comparison across shots in the series. Both lights set to maximum and tail-standing on a desk, camera laying on it's back for ceiling beamshots.










Unfortunately, after 10minutes I wasn't comfortable with the passive cooling. 














I switched them to medium to continue the test, deciding I'd switch them back up to high through-out the test. 
PLI ultimately drops out of regulation, spectacularly (**_edit: my observation was exactly as posted on Shiningbeam websight. PLI has amazing regulation, it maintained a constant high output as long as possible, then dropped straight to low. It accepted my button press and switched back up to medium but would not return to high)_. The PLI dims to low and blinks every few seconds (as if notification was needed to say the battery was low).

Unfortunately now that it's over, all the pics look the same....bust

Tomorrow maybe another shot.
Best,


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## TSD (May 8, 2009)

"Unfortunately, after 10minutes I wasn't comfortable with the passive cooling. I switched them to medium to continue the test, deciding I'd switch them back up to high through-out the test. 
PLI ultimately drops out of regulation, spectacularly...dims to low, blinks every few seconds (as if notification was needed to say the battery was low)"


Thanks for putting time into this! Were you able to estimate any runtimes from the tests you performed? If I understand you correctly, it sounds like you are saying you weren't able to determine runtimes this round because you were switching back and forth between the high and medium levels to guard against overheating concerns. However, I wasn't sure if you added up the intermittent periods you ran it on high or medium to estimate how long it would last if it were left on continuosly. Also, the last sentence above caught my eye, but I wasn't completely sure what you were saying. Sounds like when it can no longer sustain high, it jumps down to low mode. Did it take a while before dropping out of regulaion, or did it occur rather quickly?

If you decide to tackle this again, you might find it easier to focus on just the runtimes. Without a lightbox or other metering device, it might be too much of a headache to estimate regulation. Just a thought, thanks again for the effort you're putting into this!

One more thought: Shiningbeam has stated that "the inner guts of the PLI are the same as those of the MG RX-1 MC-E," which has been shown to run for about 1 hr on high. From this, I think it is safe to assume that the PLI runs for an hour or less on high, and probably less due to the decreased heatsinking.


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## 2brian0 (May 10, 2009)

Got one of these and I'm very pleased with it for the price. One question, how do you replace the switch? I can see the retaining piece with two small detents but can't figure out how to get it out. Is there a special tool or just some trick?


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## ernsanada (May 10, 2009)

I took some beam shots of my MG PL1 MC-E.

MG PLI MC-E @ 96"






MG PLI MC-E @ 32'


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## TSD (May 13, 2009)

Anyone have the runtimes or lumen outputs yet?


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## jabe1 (May 13, 2009)

ernsanada said:


> I took some beam shots of my MG PL1 MC-E.
> 
> MG PLI MC-E @ 96"
> 
> ...



Could you post some comparison pix?


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## Zeruel (May 13, 2009)

2brian0 said:


> Got one of these and I'm very pleased with it for the price. One question, how do you replace the switch? I can see the retaining piece with two small detents but can't figure out how to get it out. Is there a special tool or just some trick?



Use needle-nose plier to unscrew.


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## Linger (May 13, 2009)

Run-time test with black AW 18650, ~60min on High.

Light ran on High for just under 60min, dropped from regulation to very low output with regular blinks to signal deplete battery.


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## was_jlh (May 17, 2009)

ordered mine wednesday night and received yesterday ( thanks bryan ). third light i've ordered from shingingbeam, always very happy with their service.

i dont have any measuring equipment, and i only had a few minutes with the light last night before i had to hand it over, ( going to be my fathers day gift  ), but everything i've read in this thread is correct. wonderful bright flood. running on two surefire 123s.

i dont think you can beat this for the price.


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## CandlePowerForumsUser (May 18, 2009)

I ordered me one of these yesterday...

ITS MY FIRST Multi DIE LIGHT!

I can't wait for mine. I've been looking to replace my nightstand light (Q5 U2 Clone).

Now the wait begins.


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## Rexlion (May 23, 2009)

Hi, I'm new here. I'd like to thank Ernsanada for the great MG beamshots. :thumbsup: I got the ones for all 3 models on adjoining browser tabs for comparison. After comparing the 32' shots for the RX-1 and the PLI I knew I had have the PLI. It's here, but now I have to wait for the battery to arrive. :mecry: 

Speaking of batteries, is it just me or are these 18650 batts impossible to find except for on internet? It would be reassuring if the local Ace Hardware or Lowe's or some such carried these, but I haven't been able to pull up any mention of them at brick & mortars. So I'm stuck waiting for a batt & charger to arrive from an east coast ebayer (no way did I want to wait for Hong Kong mail on this!).

About the PLI... ok, I'm really not a person who has delved into inner workings of flashlights before. Um, how does one go about changing the switch out, anyway? I am guessing I need a spanner wrench for those 2 dimples on the inside surface, and it screws out...? Not sure.

It would have been nice if the PLI had an interchangeable 'turbo head' like the mini, to turn it into an RX-1 thrower. Oh well. I can't afford everything! For now I'll have to content myself with my 6,000,000 CP Cyclops from Bass Pro... a bit bulkier (!) but it sure does the job. 

I'm glad I stumbled upon the forum recently. I had 3 flashlights and 1 headlamp break or die in the last little few months so it was time to do some research and shopping (hee hee). This is a great resource!

Mike


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## sol-leks (May 23, 2009)

To change the switch you need a pair of needle nose pliers, you just get the tips in the holes and then twist. You are right about 18650's they are pretty much an internet only item, although the nice thing about the mg pli and the rx1 is that they can also use cr123's which are quite easy to find nowadays, so if you are ever stuck you should be ok. Just make sure you don't use rcr's it's too much for the light.


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## Rexlion (May 23, 2009)

sol-leks said:


> To change the switch you need a pair of needle nose pliers, you just get the tips in the holes and then twist. You are right about 18650's they are pretty much an internet only item, although the nice thing about the mg pli and the rx1 is that they can also use cr123's which are quite easy to find nowadays, so if you are ever stuck you should be ok. Just make sure you don't use rcr's it's too much for the light.


 
Hey, thanks a bunch on the switch help. And for a minute there you had me thinking I was goofy for not noticing that I could use CR123s. (Wouldn't be the first time I missed a valuable detail... shhh, don't tell my wife, she thinks I'm perfect   ) But then I went back to look at shiningbeam's site one more time and here's what it says:
* Powered by a single 18650 or 17670 
* Voltage input 2.8-4.2V
*** Do not use 2 x CR123A/RCR123A batteries in this light***

Guess I'm still stuck waiting.


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## Forgoten214 (May 23, 2009)

Rexlion said:


> Hey, thanks a bunch on the switch help. And for a minute there you had me thinking I was goofy for not noticing that I could use CR123s. (Wouldn't be the first time I missed a valuable detail... shhh, don't tell my wife, she thinks I'm perfect   ) But then I went back to look at shiningbeam's site one more time and here's what it says:
> * Powered by a single 18650 or 17670
> * Voltage input 2.8-4.2V
> *** Do not use 2 x CR123A/RCR123A batteries in this light***
> ...



I use 2x123 in my PLI and it works fine. Gets hot at times. Those are the 3.0V primaries. Enegergizer E2 and Surefire primaries. :devil:


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## Rexlion (May 23, 2009)

Ok, now I see. As long as I don't run it for very long it shouldn't hurt. Thanks, I think I'll run to wally world and pick some 123s up just so I can try this thing out tonite!


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## Forgoten214 (May 23, 2009)

Rexlion said:


> Ok, now I see. As long as I don't run it for very long it shouldn't hurt. Thanks, I think I'll run to wally world and pick some 123s up just so I can try this thing out tonite!



Yes, Just DO NOT use 3.7V rechargeable 123s. Input is 6.0V max. It takes 2x3.0V primaries fine.


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## was_jlh (May 23, 2009)

rexlion, instead of walmart, go to lowes home improvement, they have surefire 123s at 2 for $5.


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## Forgoten214 (May 23, 2009)

was_jlh said:


> rexlion, instead of walmart, go to lowes home improvement, they have surefire 123s at 2 for $5.



yes same here at my walmart. 2x123 primaries.


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## Rexlion (May 23, 2009)

The Walgreens up the street was the closest, and I picked up a pair of 123s there (if I had seen your posts about Lowe's in time I might have saved a few bucks, thanks, but what's done is done). And I have to say that this PLI is great! For seeing all around me out to 100' or more, it illuminates such a nice wide area. Very useful. Great for the back yard. If we get any more possums I won't be able to miss seeing them. I have never had a flood that came anywhere close to this.

At some point I will probably have to have an RX-1 too. But in practical terms, I know I'll get way more use out of the PLI. I don't have that many opportunities, living in the city, to throw a beam that far (even though it's way fun to be able to do so). 

You know, I recall getting a 6V incandescent lantern back about 15 years ago or so. And I thought, "man, this is bright!" I still have that lantern. I put a fresh square battery in it a couple of days ago. My DX C30 (like XZoom but with plastic lens, $10) output makes the lantern beam look like junk. And the PLI makes the C30 look like junk! (Well, it _is_ junk, but it's relatively bright junk for the price.)



I will definitely pack the PLI on my camping trips!


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## Forgoten214 (May 23, 2009)

Rexlion said:


> The Walgreens up the street was the closest, and I picked up a pair of 123s there (if I had seen your posts about Lowe's in time I might have saved a few bucks, thanks, but what's done is done). And I have to say that this PLI is great! For seeing all around me out to 100' or more, it illuminates such a nice wide area. Very useful. Great for the back yard. If we get any more possums I won't be able to miss seeing them. I have never had a flood that came anywhere close to this.
> 
> At some point I will probably have to have an RX-1 too. But in practical terms, I know I'll get way more use out of the PLI. I don't have that many opportunities, living in the city, to throw a beam that far (even though it's way fun to be able to do so).
> 
> ...



Very nice, The PLI is a great flooder IMO. The walgreens by me has them for 7.99 for two.


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## gbleeker (May 23, 2009)

You can buy CR123 for $1.00 apiece at several online dealers. Much cheaper than Walgreens etc.


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## was_jlh (May 24, 2009)

rexlion, i only had a few minutes with mine. how hot did it get on the 123s?


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## was_jlh (May 24, 2009)

and if u need anymore possums, i've got plenty i'd love to send your way


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## Rexlion (May 24, 2009)

I only left it on for a minute or two at a time... guess I'm being overcautious. I could feel the front warm up noticeably in as little as a minute.

I think we've won the war on the possums for the time being. Haven't seen one in over a year... took quite a bit of live trapping. They love cat food! Just recently we have a cottontail eating the clover in the yard (I hesitate to call what I have "grass", if you killed the weeds it would be bare ground). That's enough wildlife for my yard.  Good luck with whatever eradication measures you're taking, but sending them here isn't an option!






Back to the PLI... if there were one thing I could change, it would be to have a side clicky instead of tailcap. (I'm just not a tailcap convert yet, not sure if I ever will be.) Oh, and I don't seem to have the hang of reliably switching modes yet... sometimes when I press it switches mode and sometimes it doesn't. Maybe I need more practice.

Mike


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## Rexlion (May 24, 2009)

gbleeker said:


> You can buy CR123 for $1.00 apiece at several online dealers. Much cheaper than Walgreens etc.


 
I've noticed. But I was looking for a quick way to try the PLI and I'm already waiting on a web seller for the 18650. It grinds me to think we can buy something for a buck on the web but have to pay 3x as much at a store; *how dare they?!*


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## Forgoten214 (May 24, 2009)

18650s in the PLI are regulated correct?


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## mikekoz (May 24, 2009)

What became of this light? I no longer see it on Shiningbeam's webpage. I was just getting interested in it!!:sigh:


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## Forgoten214 (May 24, 2009)

mikekoz said:


> What became of this light? I no longer see it on Shiningbeam's webpage. I was just getting interested in it!!:sigh:



Bryan is getting more in shortly.


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## was_jlh (May 25, 2009)

mike, around here we use lead poisoning ( .22 caliber )


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## Rexlion (May 25, 2009)

Oh yeah, I'm all in favor of lead delivery systems. :naughty: Regrettably I'm in city limits these days. Doggone ordinances! Why they won't let me shoot my .22WMR in the direction of the school behind my house, I just don't understand...


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## sol-leks (May 26, 2009)

*New MG RX-1 and PLI?*

I noticed today that the RX-1 and PLI were no longer listed on the shiningbeam website so I thought I'd drop Bryan an email and this is what he told me:
" They are back ordered. The PLI will be here around 2 weeks and with improvement. RX-1 MC-E going to take little longer, we are currently designing the new reflector for it as well and it will come with better anodizing."

New updated MG MC-E lights? Sounds nice. Anyone else know anything more about this?


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## skids625 (May 26, 2009)

*Re: New MG RX-1 and PLI?*

I rec'ed my pli ? if something amiss, will only stay on hi 3min. then blinks and goes to low! Not to useful, but love the large flood output,? if i keep?


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## Rexlion (May 26, 2009)

Any change to the PLI could only make a great light even greater. 

I changed out the switch and the forward-clicky is easier for me to change modes reliably. That switch stays in there.

I still would like to see someone measure the lux & throw. Even though it's not a thrower per se, it's so strong it gets out there pretty far.


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## Forgoten214 (May 26, 2009)

I would like to see this in a single stage, Coupled with a Forward clicky.


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## sol-leks (May 26, 2009)

Forgoten214 said:


> I would like to see this in a single stage, Coupled with a Forward clicky.



Well it comes with a forward clicky you can switch in, and I dunno, a single mode might not be the best idea for a light of this intense brightness. It does have a memory so it will keep whatever setting you use most after all.


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## Forgoten214 (May 26, 2009)

sol-leks said:


> Well it comes with a forward clicky you can switch in, and I dunno, a single mode might not be the best idea for a light of this intense brightness. It does have a memory so it will keep whatever setting you use most after all.



Yeah I noticed. Bryan stated that he will be receiving a single stage and a 5 mode edition I believe.


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## skids625 (May 26, 2009)

Guys i am a reptile collector and drunk and i luv the output but WTF, only 3-4mins of HI !- my TK -11 goes much-much longer I could fr,EAKin die,would a 18650 do much better?


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## skids625 (May 29, 2009)

Please- luv pl1- but runtime on high so short-wtf-!!!


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## Rexlion (Jun 1, 2009)

Skids, if you haven't talked to shiningbeam about your difficulty, I would do that. I'm sure he will have some ideas.

I am enjoying my PLI. Had a bit of trouble with the cheapo 18650, but after wiping the battery ends thoroughly it started making contact.

Right now I'm wearing my PLI on my head. Yup, turned it into a 700 lumen headlamp!  I sell stuff in schools and we had some cheap plastic no-name-brand 12-LED headlamps we sold. I was cleaning off the damaged item shelf and there were 8 bad ones, so I took 'em inside and tried 'em all with fresh AAAs... found 1 that worked! But I got looking at the other 7, wondering what I could do with them. They have an elastic strap around the head and another over the head that ends in a sewn loop around the other strap... it just slips thru the loop. I've been looking at the Jakstrap and the Nite Ize headbands, almost ready to buy one. And the idea came to me! 

I slipped the PLI through the stretchy elastic loop in back, and put the thing on my head _sideways_. BINGO! The brightest headlamp I've ever seen. It holds the PLI securely enough, although it wiggles up and down a bit when I walk. Angle is easy to adjust by moving the light forward or back in the loop, or side to side by moving the elastic harness a bit on my head. The PLI is long enough that the bezel is about even with my face so I don't get any spill glare. Works with my 2AA Romisen RC-P3 and even the tiny RC-C3 (although the latter must be worn higher up on my head at a rakish... stylish?... angle to avoid the glare).

If any of you have a cheap little headlamp, especially one that quit working, maybe you can put it to better use also!


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## Rexlion (Jun 13, 2009)

Hey Bryan, what does "PLI" stand for, is it an abbreviation for anything in particular? Any chance there will ever be a turbo head for the PLI?


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## lightbug (Jun 13, 2009)

Rexlion,
Frankly, I have no idea what it means. I didn't pick this name. L-mini is the name I picked myself. Later you'll see Q-mini and T-mini lights, also picked by me.


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## TooManyGizmos (Jun 14, 2009)

I don't think I can resist this PLI much longer !

.


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## Rexlion (Jun 14, 2009)

lightbug said:


> Rexlion,
> Frankly, I have no idea what it means. I didn't pick this name. L-mini is the name I picked myself. Later you'll see Q-mini and T-mini lights, also picked by me.


 
Ok, maybe PLI stands for Primo Luminary Instrument. 

Oooh, do tell, what will be the difference with the new Q-mini and T-mini lights? I have to know which one to hold out for! I was already excited to hear you found some more warm ones for the L-mini, I want to know when those come in.


----------



## was_jlh (Jun 17, 2009)

the new version is on the shiningbeam website. if anyone who has the older version buys the new version, i would love to see a comparison.


----------



## Zeruel (Jun 18, 2009)

After being informed that the head (1st batch) can be turned to refine the beam (ie, diffuse the donut to become a smooth spot), an idea popped up. I adhered an unused aspheric lens to the bezel after removing the reflector. It seems the distance from the emitter to the bezel is at the right focal point for it to be projected.












Underexposed


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 18, 2009)

.
Are you saying that is an improvement ?

If so .................... why ?


I like a broad flood beam and lots-O-spill on an MC-E emitter light. A wall fillin flood of light.

What happens if you reverse that lens ?
.


----------



## Zeruel (Jun 18, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> .
> Are you saying that is an improvement ?
> 
> If so .................... why ?
> ...



I didn't say it's an improvement. I'm just having fun with it, not seen a led projection with a MC-E before. 
Reversing the lens has a same effect, but with a more diffused and dimmer projection.

Whilst you prefer flood, I prefer throw. 
Seeing the projection is still weaker than my recoil led, I ended the fun and restore it back to it's original condition with a broad flood beam with lots-O-spill. :shrug:


----------



## recDNA (Jun 18, 2009)

Zeruel said:


> I didn't say it's an improvement. I'm just having fun with it, not seen a led projection with a MC-E before.
> Reversing the lens has a same effect, but with a more diffused and dimmer projection.
> 
> Whilst you prefer flood, I prefer throw.
> Seeing the projection is still weaker than my recoil led, I ended the fun and restore it back to it's original condition with a broad flood beam with lots-O-spill. :shrug:


 
Seller claims over 700 lumens. That can't be accurate can it?


----------



## Rexlion (Jun 18, 2009)

I can't take an accurate measurement but.... if you saw the beam you would believe the figure.  My PLI on high leaves everything else I own in the dust. Its medium is pretty close to the high of my Q5 lights. Those quad die emitters really put out.


----------



## protein_man (Jun 18, 2009)

MY MG PLI did not work out of the box. The body was way too short and the spring of the switches way too long even when using the different switches/shims given in the package. I ended up installing a 3rd party switch that was much smaller. The light is working good now but should have worked out of the box. I also tried 3 different typed of 18650's to make sure it wasn't the battery's.

I find it bright but nowhere near as bright as a P7 at 2.8A. I measured current at the tailcap and got 1.9A on high. My emitter is also a very blue colour. Not a bad light but not great.


----------



## Zeruel (Jun 18, 2009)

protein_man said:


> MY MG PLI did not work out of the box. The body was way too short and the spring of the switches way too long even when using the different switches/shims given in the package. I ended up installing a 3rd party switch that was much smaller. The light is working good now but should have worked out of the box. I also tried 3 different typed of 18650's to make sure it wasn't the battery's.
> 
> I find it bright but nowhere near as bright as a P7 at 2.8A. I measured current at the tailcap and got 1.9A on high. My emitter is also a very blue colour. Not a bad light but not great.



Sounds like you had some bad luck. Ought to contact the dealer. The emitter also should NOT be in blue. Ern's shot is pretty close, if not warmer.


----------



## recDNA (Jun 19, 2009)

Zeruel said:


> Sounds like you had some bad luck. Ought to contact the dealer. The emitter also should NOT be in blue. Ern's shot is pretty close, if not warmer.


 
So he has to send it back to China? What a pain.


----------



## Zeruel (Jun 19, 2009)

recDNA said:


> So he has to send it back to China? What a pain.



That is IF he bought it from China, not from Shiningbeam.


----------



## recDNA (Jun 19, 2009)

Zeruel said:


> That is IF he bought it from China, not from Shiningbeam.


 
Ahhh, DX is in China but Shiningbeam is in USA?


----------



## protein_man (Jun 19, 2009)

I'd rather just fix something then have to wait for it to be fixed. Shiningbeam was never told of the problems I had but if a battery was put it the light and turned on it would have been apparent, need better QA.

Shipping was very fast so I was pleased about that. I'm sure they are great lights, I just got the dud of the batch.


----------



## Zeruel (Jun 19, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Ahhh, DX is in China but Shiningbeam is in USA?



Yup.



protein_man said:


> I'd rather just fix something then have to wait for it to be fixed. Shiningbeam was never told of the problems I had but if a battery was put it the light and turned on it would have been apparent, need better QA.
> 
> Shipping was very fast so I was pleased about that. I'm sure they are great lights, I just got the dud of the batch.



Yeah, all dealers should check lights before sending out. I'm impressed at the delivery speed too.


----------



## LEDAdd1ct (Jun 19, 2009)

As TMG noted, I think they're sold out again.


----------



## recDNA (Jun 19, 2009)

LEDAdd1ct said:


> As TMG noted, I think they're sold out again.


 
Just as well...I'm only interested in the 3 mode version and the post about the light that didn't work makes me worry about the QC at the plant and the distributer. I HATE to send things back.

I just wish Fenix or Olight or Eagletac made something as bright that can run on only 2 CR123.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 19, 2009)

recDNA ,

Have you seen any other PLI problem reports in this thread ?

.


----------



## zoe17 (Jun 19, 2009)

I ordered mine Thursday. Hope it works well. Will report back


----------



## recDNA (Jun 19, 2009)

zoe17 said:


> I ordered mine Thursday. Hope it works well. Will report back


 
I'll be curious to read about it. Item not on website now.


----------



## zoe17 (Jun 20, 2009)

recDNA said:


> I'll be curious to read about it. Item not on website now.


 
I got my shipping confirmation and order conf, as well as the paypuke. So, I hope it gets here soon. This will be my first high lumen LED.

Should I buy some of the 18650 cells to run this instead of the 123's I already have? And if so can anyone point me to a good deal? And yes, I am a newb with a flashlight addiction.


----------



## recDNA (Jun 20, 2009)

zoe17 said:


> I got my shipping confirmation and order conf, as well as the paypuke. So, I hope it gets here soon. This will be my first high lumen LED.
> 
> Should I buy some of the 18650 cells to run this instead of the 123's I already have? And if so can anyone point me to a good deal? And yes, I am a newb with a flashlight addiction.


 
"Paypuke"! LOL I thought I was the only one who didn't like having anything to do with them!

As for your question...anybody here would be more competent than I to answer it. I'm sure someone will. I love this forum. Somebody here is bound to own and know all about ANY light you chose!

My comment about the poster who mentioned his light didn't work was me consoling myself to missing the chance to try what sounds like a great deal! Good luck with it...and I will wait to hear what you think when it arrives.


----------



## apontes (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: New MG RX-1 and PLI?*



sol-leks said:


> I noticed today that the RX-1 and PLI were no longer listed on the shiningbeam website so I thought I'd drop Bryan an email and this is what he told me:
> " They are back ordered. The PLI will be here around 2 weeks and with improvement. RX-1 MC-E going to take little longer, we are currently designing the new reflector for it as well and it will come with better anodizing."



OMG!!! oo:

I was already planning on getting another L-Mini. Now I'll have to grab 2 more lights. 

Damn CPF!


----------



## recDNA (Jun 23, 2009)

*Re: New MG RX-1 and PLI?*



apontes said:


> OMG!!! oo:
> 
> I was already planning on getting another L-Mini. Now I'll have to grab 2 more lights.
> 
> Damn CPF!


 
Ya, let me know if these are ever in again.


----------



## apontes (Jun 24, 2009)

According to Bryan, PLI should be available in 2 more weeks. 
RX-1 will take longer.

L-Mini R2 is in the mail... lovecpf


----------



## recDNA (Jun 24, 2009)

apontes said:


> According to Bryan, PLI should be available in 2 more weeks.
> RX-1 will take longer.
> 
> L-Mini R2 is in the mail... lovecpf


 
Do you have A PLI?


----------



## recDNA (Jun 24, 2009)

zoe17 said:


> I ordered mine Thursday. Hope it works well. Will report back


 

Hey! How about that report?


----------



## Forgoten214 (Jun 24, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Hey! How about that report?



Yeah report is,

It sux.


----------



## Linger (Jun 25, 2009)

re: report - MG PLI is a great light. I've had it on my bike for months, i'm never giving it up.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 25, 2009)

Forgoten214 said:


> Yeah report is,
> 
> It sux.


..............................................................


Why do you say it sux ?

Did you get a bad one ?

Did you discuss it with ShiningBeam for resolution ?
.


----------



## Forgoten214 (Jun 25, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> ..............................................................
> 
> 
> Why do you say it sux ?
> ...



I'm just playin. It's a good light. :thumbsup:

No where near 700 lumens though. Yes I have one. Original batch.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 25, 2009)

Ugh ...... we don't play like that here .

We are all here for truthfull information.


Say what you mean ....... and mean what you say ..... please .

TMG


----------



## Forgoten214 (Jun 25, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Ugh ...... we don't play like that here .
> 
> We are all here for truthfull information.
> 
> ...



Oh ok. So sorry. I like your avatar btw.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 25, 2009)

Thank you ........... and you're not forgoten .



I'll remember you . :kiss:


----------



## recDNA (Jun 25, 2009)

Has anybody here ever figured out the lumens from the led?


----------



## needforspeed (Jun 29, 2009)

any more news on this light???


----------



## recDNA (Jun 29, 2009)

needforspeed said:


> any more news on this light???


 
I'm still waiting too...


----------



## LEDAdd1ct (Jun 30, 2009)

needforspeed said:


> any more news on this light???





recDNA said:


> I'm still waiting too...



Like this sort of news?

http://cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showpost.php?p=2325724&postcount=139


----------



## recDNA (Jun 30, 2009)

LEDAdd1ct said:


> Like this sort of news?
> 
> http://cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showpost.php?p=2325724&postcount=139


 

Thanks. Just 2 weeks. This time I'll know to move faster.


----------



## LEDAdd1ct (Jul 1, 2009)

You're quite welcome. I am waiting, too.


----------



## Forgoten214 (Jul 1, 2009)

LEDAdd1ct said:


> You're quite welcome. I am waiting, too.



yes, So if anyone wants to sell me their new reflector let me know 

.

I am curious to see some beam shots with this new updated version as well.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jul 2, 2009)

forgoten ,

I doubt you would see much difference in the two .... 

Beamwise






I have NOT forgoten you


----------



## Forgoten214 (Jul 2, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> forgoten ,
> 
> I doubt you would see much difference in the two ....
> 
> ...



Heh, Good to hear I guess.


----------



## PLI (Jul 2, 2009)

Hi people :welcome:
I've bought one of this wonderful light
and I'm really satisfied. lovecpf
I use it for my nightnike and as thrower I use 
a classical EDC light a fen*x LD20 , which is
another wonderful light. :thumbsup:

I have cut the spring inside the tailcap because
it is a too strong spring and , in front of it ( inside
the body tube ) , a tiny little spring - not really
a relevant choice if you use unprotected cells
( which are 3mm longer than protected )

The pics: first cut 




Second cut :twothumbs


----------



## Diabolo1 (Jul 2, 2009)

HI,
The top of the accumulator spring hurts.​ 
Must be cut 2 coils at the base of the spring​


----------



## bourmb (Jul 3, 2009)

Is there any MC-E pills that perform similiar to this flashlight and don't cost a ton of money (ie. Malkoff)? I would like to purchase a Solarforce L2 and buy a MC-E pill that is regulated.


----------



## PLI (Jul 3, 2009)

bourmb said:


> Is there any MC-E pills that perform similiar to this flashlight and don't cost a ton of money (ie. Malkoff)? I would like to purchase a Solarforce L2 and buy a MC-E pill that is regulated.


Believe me 
It's worth it!! 
May be you'll find a cheaper mc-e flashlight but
don't forget that the amount you save by doing that must be forcefully catched elsewhere up by a 
decreasing of the component quality!! :thinking:
Oops a little confusing explanation 

In other words , the less you pay the less you get 
and it seems to me harder to pay less than the price
you pay for this mce flashlight. :twothumbs

And I have no MG stocks to say that ...
just my opinion.


----------



## DM51 (Jul 3, 2009)

Welcome to CPF, PLI.

Please could you resize your photos to comply with Rule 3 - they are much too large.


----------



## bourmb (Jul 3, 2009)

Does anyone know if the construction of the body is as good as a Solarforce L2? Can upgraded pills be installed in this light when new technology evolves?


----------



## PLI (Jul 3, 2009)

DM51 said:


> Welcome to CPF, PLI.
> 
> Please could you resize your photos to comply with Rule 3 - they are much too large.


Imagez resized :twothumbs


----------



## Diabolo1 (Jul 4, 2009)

Hello, 

Some L-Mini with protected Li-Ion are concerned, always changing through the shortening (1mm) of the spring plate driver.​


----------



## PLI (Jul 4, 2009)

bourmb said:


> Does anyone know if the construction of the body is as good as a Solarforce L2? Can upgraded pills be installed in this light when new technology evolves?


To install new pills you need to remove the head 
I guess ? 
Well : It's impossible because the head is not
removable :wave:
So I think that an upgrade is not possible.


----------



## LEDAdd1ct (Jul 4, 2009)

I'd like to know the answer to that one, too:

How does the construction of the light's body/head/tail compare with the Solarforce line? Better, I hope?


----------



## Zeruel (Jul 4, 2009)

LEDAdd1ct said:


> I'd like to know the answer to that one, too:
> 
> How does the construction of the light's body/head/tail compare with the Solarforce line? Better, I hope?



In my opinion, Solarforce is better. This is especially so for the ano. But MG PLI is still worth getting as a compact MC-E flooder.


----------



## bourmb (Jul 5, 2009)

I'd like to buy a Solarforce L2 18650 body/head and purchase a MC-E pill that performs similiarly to this flashlight for around the same dollars. Any suggestions? I know DX has a MC-E pill, but I wonder if it is as good as this one. I want to be able to update the flashlight when new technology evolves.


----------



## Zeruel (Jul 5, 2009)

bourmb said:


> I'd like to buy a Solarforce L2 18650 body/head and purchase a MC-E pill that performs similiarly to this flashlight for around the same dollars. Any suggestions? I know DX has a MC-E pill, but I wonder if it is as good as this one. I want to be able to update the flashlight when new technology evolves.



If you wish to know more about Solarforce alone, you could check out or ask in Solarforce threads. But if you're wondering about the performance between the Solarforce MC-E pill and MG PLI, MG PLI definitely has a better and brighter beam profile.


----------



## bourmb (Jul 5, 2009)

Zeruel said:


> If you wish to know more about Solarforce alone, you could check out or ask in Solarforce threads. But if you're wondering about the performance between the Solarforce MC-E pill and MG PLI, MG PLI definitely has a better and brighter beam profile.



I am just looking to buy a flashlight host for a MC-E pill.


----------



## Linger (Jul 5, 2009)

Zeruel said:


> MG PLI definitely has a better and brighter beam profile.



Totally agree. I've got the solarforce L2 with an mc-e drop and I still prefer the MG PLI for what I use it for. The PLI lives on my bike, secured by a two-fish block with a pipe-clamp re-inforcing the velcro strap. It severs me very well every night.

re: PLI upgrades - I suspect it will be easy enough to mod. I'm not sure how the pill is secured, even if it is.


----------



## DM51 (Jul 5, 2009)

Zeruel said:


> If you wish to know more about Solarforce alone, you could check out or ask in Solarforce threads


Correct. This thread has nothing to do with Solarforce. Please would members stay on topic.


----------



## LEDAdd1ct (Jul 7, 2009)

I searched, but I could not find someone who measured the current at the tailcap on high. Has anyone/could someone do this [please?]


----------



## apontes (Jul 8, 2009)

I remember reading somewhere that the current draw was the same as the MG RX-1 MCE, but I don't remember the exact figures. 

Maybe 300mA --> 1000mA --> 2500mA?


----------



## LEDAdd1ct (Jul 8, 2009)

No, I mean:

I know what they are *supposed* to be according to their published specifications, but what I would like to know is what they actually *are* in the real world. Occasionally, there are very real differences between the stated specs and what actually is the case, especially depending on heatsinking/conductivity etc.


----------



## underconstruction (Jul 8, 2009)

I don't see this on the shiningbeam website. Where can I buy it and how much is it?


----------



## LEDAdd1ct (Jul 8, 2009)

Bryan is currently out of stock, but should have more any day. Check out his thread in the MP.


----------



## Rexlion (Jul 8, 2009)

Mid 50s is a bargain for something that can put out this much light.

My meter does voltage but not current, otherwise I would take a measurement.


----------



## apontes (Jul 14, 2009)

Just a heads-up: there are some units available. US$ 57.75 before discount. 
Just placed my order.  
Had been camping the website for more than 2 weeks now. 


I'm interested in the current measurement too. If anyone who has the light could check, I'd be grateful. Otherwise, I'll try to measure myself, if someone could show me how to do it.


----------



## slate (Jul 14, 2009)

I just placed my order for another PLi MC-E. For the money, I don't think there is a better light out there. I really enjoy the way this lights up a room.:thumbsup:


----------



## recDNA (Jul 14, 2009)

slate said:


> I just placed my order for another PLi MC-E. For the money, I don't think there is a better light out there. I really enjoy the way this lights up a room.:thumbsup:


 


How long to orders from Shiningbeam to U.S. usually take?


----------



## recDNA (Jul 14, 2009)

Rexlion said:


> Any change to the PLI could only make a great light even greater.
> 
> I changed out the switch and the forward-clicky is easier for me to change modes reliably. That switch stays in there.
> 
> I still would like to see someone measure the lux & throw. Even though it's not a thrower per se, it's so strong it gets out there pretty far.


 
Why wouldn't the forward clicky be standard? Does anybody prefer reverse clicky? Why would they?


----------



## Rexlion (Jul 15, 2009)

recDNA said:


> How long to orders from Shiningbeam to U.S. usually take?


 
Shiningbeam is in the U.S. So... not long.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 15, 2009)

Rexlion said:


> Shiningbeam is in the U.S. So... not long.


 
Grrr...just noticed I can only do 15 minutes on high with CR123a's. I don't like to bother with rechargeable batteries like 18650's. I wonder what happens after 15 minutes?


----------



## recDNA (Jul 15, 2009)

slate said:


> I just placed my order for another PLi MC-E. For the money, I don't think there is a better light out there. I really enjoy the way this lights up a room.:thumbsup:


 
I ordered one. I just hope I get the chance to buy more (before they're sold out) if they're as good as most folks say! Just the right price for nice gifts.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 15, 2009)

recDNA said:


> I ordered one. I just hope I get the chance to buy more (before they're sold out) if they're as good as most folks say! Just the right price for nice gifts.


 
I ordered last night at midnight and already received confirmation that the Mg Pli has been sent. Bryan was even nice eough to install the tactical clicky for me first! That's service!


----------



## apontes (Jul 15, 2009)

recDNA said:


> I ordered last night at midnight and already received confirmation that the Mg Pli has been sent. Bryan was even nice eough to install the tactical clicky for me first! That's service!



Indeed. Have only good things to say about Bryan and ShiningBeam. Super fast shipping, very reasonable shipping fees, top notch customer service and communication. :twothumbs

Back to topic, when the light arrives and you get a chance, please post your impressions of how the forward clicky works with multimode/memory.

Can't wait for mine to arrive!


----------



## recDNA (Jul 15, 2009)

apontes said:


> Indeed. Have only good things to say about Bryan and ShiningBeam. Super fast shipping, very reasonable shipping fees, top notch customer service and communication. :twothumbs
> 
> Back to topic, when the light arrives and you get a chance, please post your impressions of how the forward clicky works with multimode/memory.
> 
> Can't wait for mine to arrive!


 
Will do!

What size batteries do you plan to use?


----------



## apontes (Jul 16, 2009)

recDNA said:


> What size batteries do you plan to use?



Since the quoted max current draw is 2.5A, I'm thinking of using a Panasonic 2900 mAh. Other option would be the Trustfire 2400 mAh red/black. These 2 reportedly perform better at higher drain than the Ultrafire 3000 mAh that I use in my L-Minis.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 16, 2009)

apontes said:


> Since the quoted max current draw is 2.5A, I'm thinking of using a Panasonic 2900 mAh. Other option would be the Trustfire 2400 mAh red/black. These 2 reportedly perform better at higher drain than the Ultrafire 3000 mAh that I use in my L-Minis.


 
These are all 18650 size right?


----------



## apontes (Jul 16, 2009)

recDNA said:


> These are all 18650 size right?



Yup. 18650 form factor.

The Ultrafire 3000 mAh is rather longish. I had to really shove it in the L-Mini, otherwise the tailcap spring would get jammed, effectively making the light a twisty. The "effort" should be worth it, though: according to tests, at low drain, these have the highest capacity among the most common 18650s.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 16, 2009)

I'll probably use the MG Pli on medium with primaries.


----------



## Linger (Jul 16, 2009)

recDNA said:


> There is no doubt in my mind I will forget the 18650's on the charger at some point and the concensus seems to be I will burn my house down when I do.


 
Really? I'll give you it's not a great idea, but it's far from a sure thing the protection circuit would fail on both the cell and on the charger and then that it'd overcharge to the point of combustion.
Sure, being safe is fine. you'd better not forget to keep that PLI off High for too long with primaries eh?...


----------



## recDNA (Jul 16, 2009)

The heat in my hand is likely to remind me not to leave it on high too long. I don't leave flashlights on and walk away...I'm bad but not that bad.


----------



## litetube (Jul 16, 2009)

Well there you have it. There are Li-Ion batteries in our cell phones/laptops/ipods etc etc etc. Those occasionally blow up also. 
You are correct that sooner or later you will forget and leave the batteries on the charger and plugged in overnite or something, I have a cpl times myself. Could it have caused a problem? maybe. You may also get into an accident in your car (God forbid) in fact the chances you will get hurt in your car are exponentially greater than the chance a li-ion battery will explode and burn your house down. You probably have a bettere chance of getting hit by lightning. So there have been a cpl stories on CPF about batteries venting and such, google/search youtube for cellphone explosions and see what you find. Dont let it get you skewed way out of porportion. Use your head and a decent charger and you will be fine. 

If you worry about everything like this you wont leave your house in fear . 
I bet you will get in your car tomorrow to go to work even if I tell you I have been in 6 motorvehicle accidents in my life. Thats SIX TIMES in less than 50 years. How crazy dangerous is THAT!!!


----------



## DM51 (Jul 16, 2009)

The thread is veering rather off topic here with the discussion about Li-Ion safety issues. The dangers discussed above are greatly exaggerated - incidents with Li-Ion cells are very rare and only occur when there has been serious and reckless abuse of the cells. 

Now back on topic, please.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 16, 2009)

AND I'M STILL EXCITED ABOUT MY MG PLI! Maybe it will come tomorrow! 

I'm under the same time restraint on turbo in my Fenix TK40 and I've yet to need it on turbo for more than 15 minutes anyway.


----------



## Mjolnir (Jul 16, 2009)

Don't worry about it; hundreds of thousands of people charge lithium ion batteries of some kind every single day, and very few "explode." I would say that this belongs in the batter/electronics section, but you are already having a few discussions about this there.

If you want maximum runtime with a high output light like this, then you want the highest capacity batteries, which are 18650s. CR123s probably have just as much chance of being dangerous as a protected cell charging in a PILA IBC.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 16, 2009)

Well I certainly have food for thought....

I missed the chance last time MG Pli was available. I'm glad I'm in on it this time. Nice to have the tactical clicky already installed.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 16, 2009)

DM51 said:


> The thread is veering rather off topic here with the discussion about Li-Ion safety issues. The dangers discussed above are greatly exaggerated - incidents with Li-Ion cells are very rare and only occur when there has been serious and reckless abuse of the cells.
> 
> Now back on topic, please.


 

Sorry, I tend to write in stream of consciousness. I edited some of my content to get it back on topic. If I had the option of deleting my own posts sometimes I would!


----------



## DM51 (Jul 17, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Sorry, I tend to write in stream of consciousness. I edited some of my content to get it back on topic. If I had the option of deleting my own posts sometimes I would!


Just before I had to log off last night, I saw the content of that post before you edited it; and actually I rather wish you had left it there unchanged, as it was quite good. It did belong in the Batteries section, but despite that it made some good points which deserved answers... 

If you can recall what you said there, it would certainly have a useful place in the Batteries section.


----------



## litetube (Jul 17, 2009)

I could not resist and have one on the way myself. I will be using 18650 in this with primaries being for backup only and know I wont be getting 700lumens off 3.7volts but even if I get 400lumens on high regulated for 1hr I will be happy for now. Though I really cant get excited about the looks of this light, the performance/dollar value are what sold me. Circuitry is now becoming more important than window dressing for me it seems now.

I am thinking the warning about limiting high to 10-15 mins when using 2 primaries is similar to Fenix always warnings. I dont think I would leave it tailstanding on high /primaries for extended periods but holding the light and being active ie. walking/moving around it will probably get quite warm but be ok. This is all unproven opinion of course.


----------



## jankj (Jul 17, 2009)

I'm hoping there will be a warm white version of this...


----------



## recDNA (Jul 17, 2009)

Received my MG PLI right on time with the tactical clicky installed as I requested. It's every bit as bright as I hoped. The low is low enough to use in the pitch dark as I hoped. Exactly as advertised and reviewed in this thread.

On primaries it does warm up on high but never got too hot to hold. I shut it off at 10 minutes to make sure I wasn't risking damage to the LED.


----------



## konut (Jul 18, 2009)

:thumbsup: Ordered 7/14, sent 7/15, recieved 7/17. A PLI, 2-2500mAh 18650s, and a charger for, with CPF discount and shipping, $84.14. Works perfectly, and with a loosening half turn of the head, no donut. The perfect wide spill bike light I've been waiting for. Thanks Bryan! :wave: And just to contribute SOMETHING not commented on before, the torch with battery weighs 163 g.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 18, 2009)

konut said:


> :thumbsup: Ordered 7/14, sent 7/15, recieved 7/17. A PLI, 2-2500mAh 18650s, and a charger for, with CPF discount and shipping, $84.14. Works perfectly, and with a loosening half turn of the head, no donut. The perfect wide spill bike light I've been waiting for. Thanks Bryan! :wave: And just to contribute SOMETHING not commented on before, the torch with battery weighs 163 g.


 
I had to untwist the head a little as well for the same reason.

What kind of charger did you buy?

Darn, when I bought the MG PLI I searched "batteries" and got no answer so I didn't think Bryan sold them. After reading this I went back and searched "battery" (singular) and I found Trustfires and a charger. I would have bought the batteries and charger and saved the extra shipping charge had I noticed them on Bryan's website. (I don't know if I can say the name of the website here without getting in trouble with the moderators.)


----------



## konut (Jul 18, 2009)

This one
HXY Digial Li-Ion Battery Charger for 18650 and 17670 listed on Shiningbeams site.
It did take a bit of searching to find it.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 18, 2009)

konut said:


> This one
> HXY Digial Li-Ion Battery Charger for 18650 and 17670 listed on Shiningbeams site.
> It did take a bit of searching to find it.


 
Please let me know how you like it.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jul 18, 2009)

I told him before , he needs to make batteries and chargers more obvious on his site , if he intends to sell them.

There needs to be a catagorie for them on the left column.

The list on the left should include ALL items available.


Oh well ....................................
.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 18, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> I told him before , he needs to make batteries and chargers more obvious on his site , if he intends to sell them.
> 
> There needs to be a catagorie for them on the left column.
> 
> ...


 
Ya, too bad (for me). Shipping is expensive when only buying one or two batteries but probably would have been very low cost when added to my previous order.

The PLI is the only flashlight I have that requires 18650's so one Trustfire or AW is probably all I would buy. Picking out a charger is another kettle of fish. I hate to spend $50 on a charger but want to be safe.

Do you have a PLI?


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jul 18, 2009)

Yes I do have a PLI..... and recommend them.
.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 18, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Yes I do have a PLI..... and recommend them.
> .


 
Ever use it with primaries? I wonder how long people have run it with primaries on high without problems. 

I know the TK40 is also supposed to only be used on turbo for 15 minutes but folks have gone much longer without problems.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jul 18, 2009)

Oh ...... I thought you were asking if I had a PLI charger ... which I do.

I do not have a PLI light ..... as of yet .

Plan on getting one soon.
.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 18, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Oh ...... I thought you were asking if I had a PLI charger ... which I do.
> 
> I do not have a PLI light ..... as of yet .
> 
> ...


 

Did we ever discuss the PLI charger in the battery forum? SO many discussions about chargers I've forgotten the PLI charger...if I ever heard of it in the first place.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jul 18, 2009)

It has been discussed many times in batt. section.

I think it was called PLI charger for Pila 18650's.

Strange ...... being same name .... PLI charger and PLI light ?

Maybe I'm wrong about the initials - but I only see it sold on BugOutGearUSA now days.
.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 18, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> It has been discussed many times in batt. section.
> 
> I think it was called PLI charger for Pila 18650's.
> 
> ...


 

Oh yes, I'm familiar with the Pila.

Since you already have the charger and the batteries the PLI flashlight is a very small investment and it is very bright. Perhaps not as refined as the premium brands but about half the expense. It makes a nice backup light in the car or night stand.


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## recDNA (Jul 18, 2009)

Anybody else here have experience using the PLI flashlight with CR123A's?


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jul 18, 2009)

Was just waiting for it to be perfected. (springs and such)

Bryan was supposed to PM me when he got one that would satisfy me. He knows how picky-finiky I am.

And I'm not fond of donut holes - unless they're from DunKin donuts - in a box.

.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 18, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Was just waiting for it to be perfected. (springs and such)
> 
> Bryan was supposed to PM me when he got one that would satisfy me. He knows how picky-finiky I am.
> 
> ...


 
You may be more of a premium brand guy. I'd love a Malkoff MCe in an MD2 or MD4 but they're just too expensive for me. I do have a TK40 but I don't plan on buying any more flashlights that cost over $100....for a while anyway.

Anyway, by adjusting the bezel the donut hole can be eliminated. We're not talking perfection here but for any purpose but beamshots this flashlight does the job. I'm more concerned about how long I can run it on high without toasting the LED or the CR123A lithiums I have in it. Medium is bright enough for all practical purposes but high is more fun!

Bryan installed the tactical clicky for me and it seems to work very well. No complaints at all about springs, brightness, or beam so far.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jul 18, 2009)

I'm not a premium brand guy .

Bryan can satisfy me with premium MG PLI .... MC-E

.


----------



## Aaron (Jul 19, 2009)

I just got my MG PLI, and while I generally like it (lots of power for it's size), it does not appear to be working properly. The modes are not changing properly. When I press the power button, sometimes the light will flash, but not change modes. It just goes off while the button is pressed inward, but stays on the same mode. Other times it will change just fine. The fact that the light always flashes when the button is pressed would indicate to me that it's probably not a problem with the switch. The biggest problem that I have with it, however, is that sometimes (actually most of the time), it will go to the next mode when it is turned off. If I leave it on high, when I turn it on again, it will be on the lowest setting. This isn't good, as I wanted it to be a "bump in the night" flashlight, but when it comes on in low mode, it's totally unacceptable. 

Has anyone else had this problem? I hate returning things, but I won't have a choice if I can't fix it myself. 

Thanks


----------



## Rexlion (Jul 19, 2009)

Mine sometimes goes to low like that too, but for me it is more of a minor annoyance. I can understand your position, though.

My reverse clicky sometimes didn't seem to change the mode, again like your experience... I changed it out to the forward clicky and that one seems to work fine, changes mode every time.

The failure to remember mode would probably be in the head, AFAIK, not in the switch...


----------



## recDNA (Jul 19, 2009)

Aaron said:


> I just got my MG PLI, and while I generally like it (lots of power for it's size), it does not appear to be working properly. The modes are not changing properly. When I press the power button, sometimes the light will flash, but not change modes. It just goes off while the button is pressed inward, but stays on the same mode. Other times it will change just fine. The fact that the light always flashes when the button is pressed would indicate to me that it's probably not a problem with the switch. The biggest problem that I have with it, however, is that sometimes (actually most of the time), it will go to the next mode when it is turned off. If I leave it on high, when I turn it on again, it will be on the lowest setting. This isn't good, as I wanted it to be a "bump in the night" flashlight, but when it comes on in low mode, it's totally unacceptable.
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem? I hate returning things, but I won't have a choice if I can't fix it myself.
> 
> Thanks


 
2 suggestions:

1) I find that unless I wait a SEVERAL minutes after shutting off the light it goes to the next mode when I turn it back on. In other words...get it to the mode you want ...leave it in that mode for a while to make sure it is set....then turn it off....LEAVE it off....turn it on at least 10 minutes later and see if it stays in the desired mode. That always works for me.

2) Mine works as long as I follow the directions above BUT Bryan installed the forward clicky for me. Try installing the forward clicky and see if you get better results.

Good luck. I hope that works for you.

I keep mine by my bed but I keep it locked out (by unscrewing the tail 4 turns). With the forward clicky installed I'm afraid the light could turn on when the cat knocks it off the night stand (ya it's WHEN not IF). If it turns on high I don't know if it could get hot enough to start a fire. I wish I didn't have to lock it out because I'd like to be able to grab and go but I don't want to take a chance. 

I lit up the woods tonight when I got back from the movies....unbelievably bright little light...I can't get over it. Just wish I didn't have to worry about the heat issue. Chances are the LED would pop before it got hot enough to ignite the batteries or environment but I'm not taking any chances.

I was keeping it in my car but I decided the car might get too hot in the summer for the lithium primaries. Ya, I know...paranoid to the bone. It's never the thing you worry about that gets ya...it's the thing you don't THINK of worrying about!


----------



## recDNA (Jul 20, 2009)

Fun experiment for PLI owners...if you take off the head completely and turn it on indoors it lights up a room very evenly without any hotspot. Perfect for indoors imo.

Now without the heat sinking of the head I didn't dare do it long. The LED might get overheated. If you accidentally touch it I suppose you'd be burned too. The reflector is nice outdoors for a little throw but the light id better without it indoors IMO. I would like to think of a way to retain the heatsink yet get that beautiful hot spot free light for lighting a room.


----------



## jhc37013 (Jul 21, 2009)

So just to recap is the general consensus this light is a thumbs up? I'm considering ordering one.

At 5.5 inches running on one 18650 at around 700 lumens with fair quailty for $55, sounds to good to be true. Oh yeh it includes a holster and lanyard. Am I missing anything?


----------



## apontes (Jul 21, 2009)

Well, the 700 lumens part may be a little exaggerated. 

Apart from that, you got it right. :twothumbs


----------



## jhc37013 (Jul 21, 2009)

Well I had to order one just put in the order would have done it last night but shiningbeam was down for maintenance.

So I'm new to MG and have a PLI, Mini II with turbo head on the way. Can hardly stand the wait!


----------



## briteflite (Jul 21, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> So just to recap is the general consensus this light is a thumbs up? I'm considering ordering one.
> 
> At 5.5 inches running on one 18650 at around 700 lumens with fair quailty for $55, sounds to good to be true. Oh yeh it includes a holster and lanyard. Am I missing anything?


 
Gave one to my son who's training for a century ride .. he took it out last night on his training ride. Said it worked very well, light up everything out to about 50 feet or so. The spill is so wide that he didn't have any need for a light on his helmet.


----------



## CandlePowerForumsUser (Jul 21, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> So just to recap is the general consensus this light is a thumbs up? I'm considering ordering one.
> 
> At 5.5 inches running on one 18650 at around 700 lumens with fair quailty for $55, sounds to good to be true. Oh yeh it includes a holster and lanyard. Am I missing anything?




I think its a pretty good deal, used mine at a camping trip and its a pretty good flood light. I like it for its size, its small enough for me to pocket. No regrets getting one.


----------



## Corvette6769 (Jul 23, 2009)

Based on this review and thread, I ordered my MG PLI Cree MC-E from Shining Beam yesterday - $57.03 including postage and CPF discount. Tracking shows shipped yesterday and should arrive here Saturday. That's what I call service. Thank you Bryan.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 23, 2009)

Aaron said:


> I just got my MG PLI, and while I generally like it (lots of power for it's size), it does not appear to be working properly. The modes are not changing properly. When I press the power button, sometimes the light will flash, but not change modes. It just goes off while the button is pressed inward, but stays on the same mode. Other times it will change just fine. The fact that the light always flashes when the button is pressed would indicate to me that it's probably not a problem with the switch. The biggest problem that I have with it, however, is that sometimes (actually most of the time), it will go to the next mode when it is turned off. If I leave it on high, when I turn it on again, it will be on the lowest setting. This isn't good, as I wanted it to be a "bump in the night" flashlight, but when it comes on in low mode, it's totally unacceptable.
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem? I hate returning things, but I won't have a choice if I can't fix it myself.
> 
> Thanks


 
Did you ever get this straightened out?


----------



## recDNA (Jul 23, 2009)

What is the longest anybody has run their MG PLI on high using CR123a primaries? I really don't want to buy a charger and 18650's unless a REALLY have to. If I have to buy a charger I've defeated the purpose of buying a low cost alternative to a WE sniper.


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## Tempsho (Jul 24, 2009)

Is there a reason why I don't see that flashlight on shiningbeam.com?


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## TooManyGizmos (Jul 24, 2009)

:laughing:...........................

No see ............. means SOLD OUT


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## Zeruel (Jul 24, 2009)

For the 3rd time! oo:


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## Hondo (Jul 24, 2009)

Phew! Mine shipped Wednesday, I almost missed this for a third time. I kept procrastinating ordering, and could not get one with my L-Mini II's, and then missed the second batch too. This time I finally jumped on two of these. I am hoping I can replace two standard 18650 Cree lights on my bike bars with one of these. Hopefully I will get to try it out this weekend, Monday for sure.


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## recDNA (Jul 24, 2009)

Tempsho said:


> Is there a reason why I don't see that flashlight on shiningbeam.com?


 
It's sold out. Bryan said there should be more in about 30 days.


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## recDNA (Jul 24, 2009)

I really like the MC-E bin. I wish I had a P7 to compare it to.

Anybody ever try to see how long they could use their MG PLI on high?


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## Corvette6769 (Jul 25, 2009)

As expected, my MG PLI Cree MC-E arrived in the mail today from Shining Beam. 

Little disappointed that there were no operating instructions, warranty papers, or retail box included - just a bubble mailer containing the MG PLI Cree MC-E flashlight and a small zip-lock packet containing the additional tactical switch, lanyard, 3 O-rings, green G.I.D switch boot, and a .7835 O.D x .4115 I.D x .060 thick washer.

When I first powered it on, it had 5 modes: Low > Mid > High > Strobe > SOS (and what seemed like an extended runtime locater beacon slow flash 6th mode), however a few minutes later all I get are 3 modes: Low > Mid > High.

Anyone know how to activate all 5 or 6 modes?


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## apontes (Jul 25, 2009)

Err... What 5/6 modes?

The PLI has only 3 modes (low > med > high).


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## recDNA (Jul 25, 2009)

Corvette6769 said:


> As expected, my MG PLI Cree MC-E arrived in the mail today from Shining Beam.
> 
> Little disappointed that there were no operating instructions, warranty papers, or retail box included - just a bubble mailer containing the MG PLI Cree MC-E flashlight and a small zip-lock packet containing the additional tactical switch, lanyard, 3 O-rings, green G.I.D switch boot, and a .7835 O.D x .4115 I.D x .060 thick washer.
> 
> ...


\
If I were you I'd email Bryan at Shiningbeam.

It's funny, Bryan and I recently exchanged emails in which I asked he do a limited run with strobe included (I don't want the SOS or Flash). ANyway, he told me the modes WERE once in the PLI but they annoyed people so he had them removed. The fact you accessed them albeit only once is weird. Be sure to post your answer because I would love to access strobe. My PLI only had low-med-hi since day 1.

*If you would be interested in a PLI with those modes be sure to tell him. He's thinking of doing one run of PLI's with strobe. I know I'd want one. I wish he could do the same UI as Olight T20 where you rotate the bezel to get strobe.*


The key question is how do you like all that light from a nice small flashlight for $57!


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## Corvette6769 (Jul 25, 2009)

apontes said:


> Err... What 5/6 modes?
> 
> The PLI has only 3 modes (low > med > high).


 
Actually, there are 3-mode and 5-mode versions of the MG PLI MC-E. See below quote from: http://cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showpost.php?p=2308565&postcount=30



shiningbeam said:


> Hi Guys,
> I have two *5-mode PLI* available. It uses same circuit board as the 3-mode, but with the SOS and Strobe enabled. If anyone is interested please let me know. The price is $53.
> 
> I also have one with only 1 mode (high), I think when they try to customize the 5 mode into 3, they accidentally turn off the low and medium modes as well. This one will only be selling for $40.
> ...


----------



## recDNA (Jul 25, 2009)

Corvette6769 said:


> Actually, there are 3-mode and 5-mode versions of the MG PLI MC-E. See below quote from: http://cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showpost.php?p=2308565&postcount=30


 

Ya but that was May. I just asked Bryan for the 5 mode version 2 days ago and he didn't have any.

If there is a trick to access those modes I think he would have mentioned it to me.


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## Linger (Jul 25, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Anybody ever try to see how long they could use their MG PLI on high?



Yeah, I got ~60min on an AW 18650.

When I'm cycling with it though my run-time is much longer, infact i've never had to swap out a cell during a ride. Medium and even low are often enough. And then, being a flashaholic, there are times when put it on high and I light up my 'back-up' p7 too


By the way recDNA, I'm glad you finally got one of these. I've been reading you debating it for sooo loooong.

Best,
Linger


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## recDNA (Jul 26, 2009)

linger said:


> Yeah, I got ~60min on an AW 18650.
> 
> When I'm cycling with it though my run-time is much longer, infact i've never had to swap out a cell during a ride. Medium and even low are often enough. And then, being a flashaholic, there are times when put it on high and I light up my 'back-up' p7 too
> 
> ...


 
Thanks

I'll probably buy another one too.

I'm also curious what the longest anybody has gone on primaries (CR123) (shh) even though we're not spose to..


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jul 26, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Thanks
> 
> I'll probably buy another one too.
> 
> I'm also curious what the longest anybody has gone on primaries (CR123) (shh) even though we're not spose to..



........................

Voids your warranty tho ............

Bryan told you there is a time limit.


You should get 18650's for long runs.

.


----------



## Forgoten214 (Jul 26, 2009)

This is for RecDNA that wanted to know if primaries where ok to store in excess heat conditions.


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## recDNA (Jul 26, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> ........................
> 
> Voids your warranty tho ............
> 
> ...


 
True, but I still wonder what the longest anybody has tried. I'm not recommending they go out and burn out their MG. I don't NEED to go over 10 minutes on high with mine. I'm just curious. It seems like lots of people here "break the rules". I doubt the Surefire warranty holds up when you put a P60 drop in in it either!

I MAY purchase a couple of 18650's and a charger the next time I buy a flashlight that requires them. I don't use my flashlight for a living. I just play with them and use them to find things. The cost of rechargeables and a charger would never be recouped at the rate I use batteries.

Until 18650's and chargers become safe enough so that retailers like Radio Shack or Batteries Plus are willing to carry them I am reluctant to bother with them. Even the low risk of a problem is a greater risk than I have any reason to bear. 

Currently my MG PLI is in my car and it is my understanding that the high temps in summer can compromise even AW brand rechargeables. In one of the theads in the battery section a poster mentioned that the heat had caused the voltage of his AW Li-Ion to drop to 0 volts (scratch $16)! My Energizer Lithiums are supposed to have great shelf life up to 140 degrees. Shelf life is really the most important factor for me since I use my flashlights so little.

Funny, recently I shined my MG PLI for about 3 minutes on high in a Multiplex parking lot to check out the throw. Nothing but woods on the other side which had to be 300 yards away...and a police car pulled up to see what I was doing! I mean THREE MINUTES! Another poster mentioned it took the police 2 days to investigate a break in at his home but the police are right on the case when somebody shines a flashlight in an empty parking lot! No chance to void my warranty with the constabulary on the job.


----------



## Linger (Jul 27, 2009)

recDNA said:


> The cost of rechargeables and a charger would never be recouped at the rate I use batteries.



yeah, but if you had rechargables you'd use it so much more often.
When I got my first 16340 flashlight (and also my first 16340 cell) I ran through a full cycle every night, made excuses to go walk the dog


----------



## jahxman (Jul 27, 2009)

linger said:


> yeah, but if you had rechargables you'd use it so much more often.
> When I got my first 16340 flashlight (and also my first 16340 cell) I ran through a full cycle every night, made excuses to go walk the dog


 So true - with rechargeables it's almost free lumens. When I have primaries in the light I'm always in the back of my mind aware that when that battery is spent it's done; with the rechargables I can shine my lights all I want, and it's no problem, just charge 'em up again, which costs almost nothing in electricity.


----------



## LEDAdd1ct (Jul 27, 2009)

I was/still am out of town, and it appears I missed this batch as well. Perhaps the new batch will be even better!


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## recDNA (Jul 27, 2009)

linger said:


> yeah, but if you had rechargables you'd use it so much more often.
> When I got my first 16340 flashlight (and also my first 16340 cell) I ran through a full cycle every night, made excuses to go walk the dog


 
I don't walk my cat.

My fish freak out when I use the PLI in the playroom in the dark.

My neighbors freak out when I use it in the woods behind my house.

The police freak out when I use it in theater parking lot...or at least they tell me to cut it out.

I'd have to go to Yellowstone to use my MG PLI more often.

When charger/18650 combos are cheap AND safe I'll get one. Heck, it costs more for one AW 18650 and a Pila than it cost for the MG PLI!


----------



## jhc37013 (Jul 28, 2009)

Anybody know the best way to get the head off mine has a milky residue on the inside of lens and I would like to try and get the donut out of the hotspot like you use to be able to do on the older batch.


----------



## Zeruel (Jul 28, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> Anybody know the best way to get the head off mine has a milky residue on the inside of lens and I would like to try and get the donut out of the hotspot like you use to be able to do on the older batch.



Bryan said to bang the head hard.


----------



## jhc37013 (Jul 28, 2009)

Zeruel said:


> Bryan said to bang the head hard.



Ok I will let you know how that work outs for me


----------



## Zeruel (Jul 28, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> Ok I will let you know how that work outs for me



Better wrap it with something first, don't want the ano to go flying all over the place.


----------



## jhc37013 (Jul 28, 2009)

Zeruel said:


> Better wrap it with something first, don't want the ano to go flying all over the place.



I don't about that this thing is built so well with it's HA IV I think I will use a large mallet to make the job a little quicker.


----------



## Zeruel (Jul 28, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> I don't about that this thing is built so well with it's HA IV I think I will use a large mallet to make the job a little quicker.



Here's Bryan's suggestion.


----------



## jhc37013 (Jul 28, 2009)

Zeruel said:


> Here's Bryan's suggestion.



I though you was messing around but after seeing that I think both of your are are serious.lol


----------



## Zeruel (Jul 28, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> I though you was messing around but after seeing that I think both of your are are serious.lol



Of course we're serious, even this reply he gave....


----------



## recDNA (Jul 28, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> Anybody know the best way to get the head off mine has a milky residue on the inside of lens and I would like to try and get the donut out of the hotspot like you use to be able to do on the older batch.


 
I have one of the NEW batch. It has no milky residue. The donut is eliminated by untwisiting the head about 1/4 turn. If the lens is discolored that is something else. You might want to get in touch with Bryan before you do something that could void the warranty.


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## recDNA (Jul 28, 2009)

Zeruel said:


> Bryan said to bang the head hard.


 
He also said it would void the warranty!


----------



## Zeruel (Jul 28, 2009)

recDNA said:


> He also said it would void the warranty!



Yes, that was quoted in the link as well. It's up one to make the decision. For me, I think it's worthwhile.


----------



## jhc37013 (Jul 28, 2009)

Well I have done some banging and heated the head with a lighter and its a no go on getting the head off. I don't think this is just some regular old krazy glue.


----------



## recDNA (Jul 28, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> Well I have done some banging and heated the head with a lighter and its a no go on getting the head off. I don't think this is just some regular old krazy glue.


 
I've got some lint/dust in mine too but it doesn't seem to affect the beam at all. My fav. is the pure flood you get if you unscrew the head (no need to bang mine). Of course I only tried it for a few seconds because without the heat sink in the head I'm afraid of frying the chip. I wish I could heat sink it with no reflector to get that beautiful full flood with no hotspot at all.


----------



## jhc37013 (Jul 28, 2009)

recDNA said:


> I've got some lint/dust in mine too but it doesn't seem to affect the beam at all. My fav. is the pure flood you get if you unscrew the head (no need to bang mine). Of course I only tried it for a few seconds because without the heat sink in the head I'm afraid of frying the chip. I wish I could heat sink it with no reflector to get that beautiful full flood with no hotspot at all.



I can live with the milky lens i don't think it affects performance but I want to unscrew it some to get the donut out of the hotspot.

I'm usually pretty good at getting lights apart but this one is kicking my arse


----------



## recDNA (Jul 28, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> I can live with the milky lens i don't think it affects performance but I want to unscrew it some to get the donut out of the hotspot.
> 
> I'm usually pretty good at getting lights apart but this one is kicking my arse


 
Oh, I didn't stop to think that you wouldn't even be able to focus. I would think you could always return it due to the milky lens. That's a flaw. I'd love to put a nice saphire lens in mine but if I start blowing money on it it defeats the purpose of buying an inexpensive MG. If I added the AW 18650's and a Pila and a better lens I might as well buy a WE sniper!


----------



## jhc37013 (Jul 28, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Oh, I didn't stop to think that you wouldn't even be able to focus. I would think you could always return it due to the milky lens. That's a flaw. I'd love to put a nice saphire lens in mine but if I start blowing money on it it defeats the purpose of buying an inexpensive MG. If I added the AW 18650's and a Pila and a better lens I might as well buy a WE sniper!



In the end you know you will probably do it anyway so might as well go ahead to give into it and do it.


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## recDNA (Jul 28, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> In the end you know you will probably do it anyway so might as well go ahead to give into it and do it.


 
Maybe at Christmastime. The one light I might still buy is the Quark MC-E. I'd rather buy the Quark than mod the MG.


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## jhc37013 (Jul 28, 2009)

Yeh I know what you mean I really dont even want to spend the money for shipping back for my little problems, hopefully somehow I can get the head off.


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## recDNA (Jul 28, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> Yeh I know what you mean I really dont even want to spend the money for shipping back for my little problems, hopefully somehow I can get the head off.


 
I hate to send stuff back too. Can you get ahold of 2 strap wrenches? That's your best shot. 

I have a crazy idea and no idea if it will work but I wonder if you freeze it then heat it quickly (you could even use liquid N2 from wart remover spray) if the contraction and expansion would break the adhesive bond? Of course it might also cause your led to fall of or even crack the aluminum. I'm not recommending it...just occurred to me. I get odd ideas late at light. I'd probably think it was stupid in the morning....and you'd still need the strap wrenches to untwist the head once the adhesive is cracked. Of course the most likely scenario is a broken flashlight...*in fact now that I think about it the temp change would probably crack your* *milky lens*!

BTW, take out the battery first!


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## jhc37013 (Jul 28, 2009)

Yeh I wish I had a couple strap wrenches or someone who has a set. I'm willing to try just about anything not sure about freezing/heating, I get crazy ideas late at night to if you have any more let me know.


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## recDNA (Jul 28, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> Yeh I wish I had a couple strap wrenches or someone who has a set. I'm willing to try just about anything not sure about freezing/heating, I get crazy ideas late at night to if you have any more let me know.


 

Here's a NOT so crazy idea...until you can borrow the right tools live with it as is. It's STILL very bright and outdoors the dark spot isn't as noticeable. Heck, 5 years ago MOST flashlights had TERRIBLE spots and rings...or put some diffuser film over the lens.


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## jhc37013 (Jul 28, 2009)

I can live with that's why I won't send it back but when I want to fix something it becomes almost a personnel mission to me if you know what I mean.


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## recDNA (Jul 29, 2009)

I'm such a wise guy. I was POSITIVE that tactical switches are ALWAYS best...and Bryan was nice enough to install the tactical switch for me...well after a while I decided I might prefer the reverse clicky after all. The way the UI is set up when you use the tactical switch it's hard not to change modes.

Anyway, I took out the tactical switch and installed the reverse clicky that was included in the pkg. It worked fine but was a little hard to push it in all the way. Oh I know...I forgot to change the colored clicky. I knew the hardware was different but assumed the clickies were the same in different colors. Well...as most of you already know the rubber clickies ARE different. There is a smaller bulge in the tactical one.

Ok, so I installed the correct one (orange) and put everything back together. Much easier to click now BUT ...you guessed it...the light won't turn on. So now I take it apart yet again (this is getting old I know). Now I'm panicky. Have I somehow ruined my light? Will I have to reinstall the tactical clicky? Will it even work now?

Well, I took it apart again. Everything LOOKED fine. Darn. One last try. Put it all together and my goodness what a relief - now it works. No idea what was wrong. I tried changing modes and so forth and everything is everything. I hope I like the reverse clicky cause no way I'm going through THAT again...and you guys modify perfectly good 100 dollar Surefires? I give you credit for guts!


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## jhc37013 (Jul 30, 2009)

Is it possible you didn't tighten the tailcap retaining ring down good?

When I turned my light on for the first time I thought I had a bad one, no light. I unscrewed the tailcap and found the ring was ready to fall out on its own. I tightened down so I thought, I turned it back on and it flickered and only came on randomly.

So I took the tailcap back off and realized I did not tighten it down tight enough. Turns out I needed to apply alot of force more than most lights to get the ring tightened down once and for all. 

Its been fine since and hasn't worked its way back lose.


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## recDNA (Jul 30, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> Is it possible you didn't tighten the tailcap retaining ring down good?
> 
> When I turned my light on for the first time I thought I had a bad one, no light. I unscrewed the tailcap and found the ring was ready to fall out on its own. I tightened down so I thought, I turned it back on and it flickered and only came on randomly.
> 
> ...


 
No idea. It seemed to me I did it the same both times. Anyway the first time - nothing. Now it's fine. I think I tightened it the same both times but I didn't count threads. I just tightened it until it felt tight. It's good now so I won't mess with it again.

The key is Bryan is right. You're better off with the reverse clicky with this UI. I thought tactical was ALWAYS the way to go but not with the MG PLI. If there were a way to lock it down to one mode tactical would be best but the same soft press that causes tactical "on" also advances to the next mode so it's too weird.


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## recDNA (Aug 2, 2009)

My keyring light is my trusty Fenix P1D and I wouldn't part with it due its small size and bright output BUT the flashlight I find I use most is my MG PLI. When I need to run out to the garage or find something in a cabinet or check outside for critters on the roof it's the PLI I use. 

I have several more expensive flashlights. Some are brighter but bigger and I can't stick them in my pocket. Some are fancier and do more tricks but they just aren't as bright and don't project that big circle of light. Even sitting on my sofa it's the PLI on low for finding things in my basket of remotes, goodies, clips, pens, and all sorts of stuff.

My TK40 is certainly my best flashlight but most of the time it's locked out in its case. The PLI is my workhorse. My new Eagletac T20C can't hold a candle to it. 

With the right UI (IMO bezel switches are best) :thumbsup:the PLI could be the best flashlight around IMO.


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## jhc37013 (Aug 3, 2009)

I'm finding the PLI to be very useful in the exact places you are. Very good utility light for inside and outside the house, I find myself grabbing it more and more often than other lights.


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## slate (Aug 3, 2009)

+1

That is why I own 2 of them. One as my bedside companion and one next to me by the PC as I type this.


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## recDNA (Aug 3, 2009)

slate said:


> +1
> 
> That is why I own 2 of them. One as my bedside companion and one next to me by the PC as I type this.


 

I'm thinking of getting another myself. It depends how expensive the Quark MC-E is.


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## jhc37013 (Aug 4, 2009)

I wonder what the real OTF lumens on it is? The brightest light I have is a 700 lumen Olight M30 and by comparing the two I think its somewhere around 450-500 lumen.

I'm by no means bashing it heck for $55 built very well and extremely bright flood I'm like some of you others I'm thinking of ordering another. Having to be realistic though it's not 700 lumen.


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## recDNA (Aug 4, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> I wonder what the real OTF lumens on it is? The brightest light I have is a 700 lumen Olight M30 and by comparing the two I think its somewhere around 450-500 lumen.
> 
> I'm by no means bashing it heck for $55 built very well and extremely bright flood I'm like some of you others I'm thinking of ordering another. Having to be realistic though it's not 700 lumen.


 
I can tell you it is more than my new Eagletac T20C (supposedly 300) and less than my Fenix TK40. I'd GUESS about 450. It doesn't have great throw but is excellent at lighting up a room. Very large beam. Floody. It's not a "show off" light. It's the light you end up using every day.


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## Mjolnir (Aug 4, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> I wonder what the real OTF lumens on it is? The brightest light I have is a 700 lumen Olight M30 and by comparing the two I think its somewhere around 450-500 lumen.
> 
> I'm by no means bashing it heck for $55 built very well and extremely bright flood I'm like some of you others I'm thinking of ordering another. Having to be realistic though it's not 700 lumen.



I doubt that the M30 is 700 lumens either; it probably isn't even more than 600.


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## Phaserburn (Aug 7, 2009)

How is the heat from this light when running it on high for extended time (20+ mins), using an 18650 and holding it in your hand?


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## jahxman (Aug 7, 2009)

Phaserburn said:


> How is the heat from this light when running it on high for extended time (20+ mins), using an 18650 and holding it in your hand?


 
It will get pretty warm, but not hot in my experience. Possibly if the ambient temp is very hot already it might feel hot, but holding it in your hand and moving around with it it is just fairly warm.


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## recDNA (Aug 7, 2009)

Phaserburn said:


> How is the heat from this light when running it on high for extended time (20+ mins), using an 18650 and holding it in your hand?


 
Mine gets hot but I use CR123


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## moses (Aug 12, 2009)

Greetings, Went to Shiningbeam but they don't seem to stock this. Where are you guys getting the PLI?

Thanks,
Mo


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## recDNA (Aug 12, 2009)

moses said:


> Greetings, Went to Shiningbeam but they don't seem to stock this. Where are you guys getting the PLI?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mo


 
He only shows them when they are in stock. Eventually you will read a notification here or in CPF Marketplace that they are in. Then the item will appear on the website. I've often wondered why he removes it entirely when it is out of stock but that's what he does.


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## moses (Aug 12, 2009)

Ah....is there another source for these? And reading the comments here, it seems like these are about 450-500 lumens out of the bulb...?

Thanks again,
Mo


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## slate (Aug 12, 2009)

recDNA said:


> He only shows them when they are in stock. Eventually you will read a notification here or in CPF Marketplace that they are in. Then the item will appear on the website. I've often wondered why he removes it entirely when it is out of stock but that's what he does.



I prefer this method o frunning an online store. I hate ordering stuff and then being told, "Oh it is out of stock or backordered". With Shiningbeam, if it is on the site, it is ready to ship.

The MG-PLI is a great light at a great price. Not sure about 500 lumens but it is very bright


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## recDNA (Aug 12, 2009)

slate said:


> I prefer this method o frunning an online store. I hate ordering stuff and then being told, "Oh it is out of stock or backordered". With Shiningbeam, if it is on the site, it is ready to ship.
> 
> The MG-PLI is a great light at a great price. Not sure about 500 lumens but it is very bright


 
Ya, I don't like to get to the ordering stage before I find it is out of stock but a listing of the item with a clear out of stock message next to it along with an estimated date of new arrival is ideal in my book. Just a matter of personal preference.


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## Diabolo1 (Aug 22, 2009)

Hello,
Power consumption :
- 2500 mA with 18650 protected Trustfire gray 2400 mA
- 2800 mA with 18650 unprotected Ultrafire blue 2500 mA.


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## flatline (Sep 11, 2009)

I've only seen discussion so far on the High setting...

...how bright is the Low setting?

...how bright is the Medium setting?

...what kind of runtimes can be expected for Low and Medium with a single 18650?

Thanks!

--flatline


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## zzzarkt (Sep 11, 2009)

Just ordered myself an MG PLI and was wondering, will the new AW 2600mah 18650 http://www.lighthound.com/AW-18650-...able-Lithium-Battery--New-Version_p_3125.html without the button top have any problem running the MG PLI? Or should I stick with the older AW 2200mah 18650?

Thanks.


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## jhc37013 (Sep 11, 2009)

zzzarkt said:


> Just ordered myself an MG PLI and was wondering, will the new AW 2600mah 18650 http://www.lighthound.com/AW-18650-...able-Lithium-Battery--New-Version_p_3125.html without the button top have any problem running the MG PLI? Or should I stick with the older AW 2200mah 18650?
> 
> Thanks.



The 2600mah work fine in mine you should have no trouble with them size wise.


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## zzzarkt (Sep 11, 2009)

That's good to hear, thank you very much.


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## DanguS (Sep 13, 2009)

hi

im just wondering if it is possible to get one of those MCU-C7 (Saberwolf modified 'mini-edc,' a warm MC-E pocket sunburst) that you have in this review? any help would be appreciated.

thank you


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## waddup (Sep 19, 2009)

just thought id add my impression of the new (improved reflector and switches) mg pli that i received yesterday from shining beam.

3 levels are very well spaced, low is maybe 25 lumens? med 200, high 450+

im guessing as i dont measure anything, but i have several other lights rated from 100-500 and am comparing by 'eye'

very solidly and well built light, i doubt i could break it with normal abuse.

$60 to my door.

FLOODER, my first real flooder (which is why i got it) *the beam profile is very similar to my old novatac 120,* except much more light.

after a year of flasaholicism and 15+ good lights (jetbeam wolf eyes custom mags etc) id say this $60 light is as well built, as bright and as useful as any light ive owned.

throwers are cool and all, but being able to light up an area the size of a large house like daylight, or completely light up a room, instead of just a 1 foot circle on the wall, is far more practicle imo.

nice to have both :candle:


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## ToTo (Sep 19, 2009)

is the mgpli better than the mg rx-1 for riding a bike?
and how far does it throw?


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## recDNA (Sep 19, 2009)

ToTo said:


> is the mgpli better than the mg rx-1 for riding a bike?
> and how far does it throw?


 
It's a flood light. It does not throw far. Do you want to see EVERY obstacle withing 100 feet or a bright spot 100 yards away?


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## recDNA (Sep 19, 2009)

waddup said:


> just thought id add my impression of the new (improved reflector and switches) mg pli that i received yesterday from shining beam.
> 
> 3 levels are very well spaced, low is maybe 25 lumens? med 200, high 450+
> 
> ...


 
Pick the spot in your home where you sit. Put the MG PLI right next to you. Very easy to go from low to medium in a second. High is to freak people out. (fun) 

It is the light you will end up using the most. From finding the remote to flipping a circuit breaker to checking an odd noise on the roof it does the trick. You may want one by the bed too. For EDC I prefer the P1D. Best value for the buck I've found here....but I must confess I love floods and have little use for throwers.


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## waddup (Sep 19, 2009)

ToTo said:


> how far does it throw?



id say on low about 40 feet, medium 80 feet, high 150 feet.

but it lights up wide, at 40 feet away the width is 40 feet, at 80 feet away its 100 feet wide.

ive spent a lot of time on a bike at night,

this is the best light for night riding a bike i have ever owned. (or seen)

maybe there are some $350 custom bike lights out there that *claim* to be better, but i doubt it.

this light is variable (low med high) wide spill and 3 x cheaper then a custom bike light, and as bright as the sun if you want to use it on high :thumbsup:


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## waddup (Sep 19, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Pick the spot in your home where you sit. Put the MG PLI right next to you. Very easy to go from low to medium in a second. High is to freak people out. (fun)
> 
> It is the light you will end up using the most. From finding the remote to flipping a circuit breaker to checking an odd noise on the roof it does the trick. You may want one by the bed too. For EDC I prefer the P1D. Best value for the buck I've found here....but I must confess I love floods and have little use for throwers.



yea, ive only had it for 24 hours and im thinking about getting a couple more.:thumbsup:

its too bright, to well built and to cheap to ignore.


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## waddup (Sep 19, 2009)

recDNA said:


> It's a flood light. It does not throw far



it produces A LOT of light on high (350-500 lumens)? 

in the dark all that light does throw a long way.not as far as a dedicated thrower, but still a long way.


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## recDNA (Sep 19, 2009)

waddup said:


> it produces A LOT of light on high (350-500 lumens)?
> 
> in the dark all that light does throw a long way.not as far as a dedicated thrower, but still a long way.


 
Tomahtoes. tomaytoes. I said 100 feet. You say 150. Split the dif and say 125. It's still a flood and not a thrower but to ME that's a compliment! There may be a use for throwers in specialized jobs or situations but I've never had any use for one. I want to light up the area I'm actually IN. I'm not a policeman nor a lineman for the county.


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## ToTo (Sep 20, 2009)

How is the beampattern compared to the H60w
Cause i dont need two extreme close range lights


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## jahxman (Sep 20, 2009)

ToTo said:


> How is the beampattern compared to the H60w
> Cause i dont need two extreme close range lights


 
It is nothing like the H6ow; this light does throw, and has a lot of spill, typical of most MC-E lights. It is ideal for an application like bicycling at night, where you want decent throw and good spill, similar to a car headlight.


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## liketotallyrandom (Sep 22, 2009)

I decided to get an MG PLI as my flood beam for caving. It will replace one of the three lights on my helmet, specifically a 2AA LED [email protected] (single mode version). I loosened the PLI's head one-half turn, and the hole in the center of the beam is almost completely gone.

To make the PLI easier to find in a cave, I removed the camo paint.






Here is a comparison. Both lights 20 feet from wall. (left: MG PLI on low setting, right: 2AA [email protected]).





Here is the MG PLI on high, 70 feet from the wall. Tree and caving rope are 45 feet from PLI. (exposure set to mimic subjective impression)


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## amigafan2003 (Sep 22, 2009)

Any tips for removing the paint? I really like the silver finish  Although I'd imagine it'd dull and pit over time.


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## waddup (Sep 22, 2009)

amigafan2003 said:


> Any tips for removing the paint? I really like the silver finish  Although I'd imagine it'd dull and pit over time.



dremmel?


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## amigafan2003 (Sep 22, 2009)

I'd have thought a dremmel would have left more marks. I'm thinking something like nitromoors.


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## liketotallyrandom (Sep 22, 2009)

I mostly just turned the light, by hand, in some 150 grit sandpaper. This kept the sanding lines circular around the flashlight. For the recessed areas, I used a Dremel with small emery grinding bit and also a sanding disc bit. The bare aluminum is soft, so yeah, it will get scratched easily, but it's for caving anyway so it doesn't really matter. Everything short of a diamond gets scratched in a cave.


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## flatline (Sep 22, 2009)

liketotallyrandom said:


> I mostly just turned the light, by hand, in some 150 grit sandpaper. This kept the sanding lines circular around the flashlight. For the recessed areas, I used a Dremel with small emery grinding bit and also a sanding disc bit. The bare aluminum is soft, so yeah, it will get scratched easily, but it's for caving anyway so it doesn't really matter. Everything short of a diamond gets scratched in a cave.



Thanks for the explanation. The naked aluminum looks great.

Personally, I don't mind at all when my tools show that they've had a history of being used (and abused) as long as the scratches and dents don't interfere with the function of the tool.

--flatline


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## KAR (Sep 25, 2009)

After reading this whole thread Tuesday night I went ahead and ordered one of these lights. I just got it today and it is a great light. It seems to put out as much light on medium as my P3D does on high. I'm gonna mount this thing on my bike. Thanks guys.


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## Stealth (Sep 26, 2009)

How exactly do you switch between the modes?

Does memory have a timer (example: 3 seconds off remembers last mode)

Does anybody find themselves accidentally turning it on in the wrong mode?

What happens if you just start rapidly clicking it on & off, would the mode change?



Its hard for me to trust anything but turn-bezel mode change nowadays.


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## KAR (Sep 26, 2009)

I think you have to leave it on for at least a few seconds for the memory to hold the last mode. So to switch modes, dont leave the light on long enough for this to happen before turning it off again. For changing modes the easiest way is to repeatedly press the button and release without clicking it in all the way.


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## Hondo (Sep 26, 2009)

It is based on time on. After about two seconds on, the mode is memorized. So, if you turn on and want to advance to the next mode, just tap once after clicking on. But, if you want to change modes after you have been on for more than two seconds or so, you will have to tap once to "unset" the mode, if you will, and then tap again to actually change. If you keep tapping, it will keep changing modes every tap, until you let it sit on one mode for over two seconds. I hope that helps. Personally, I find it to be a very reliable and intuitive system, once you get used to the need for the extra tap when you have been running a while and want to change modes. The other advantage of that method is that an accidental "tap" on the tailcap WON'T result in an unintentional mode change.


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## Stealth (Sep 26, 2009)

Big thank you Hondo and Kar. 


If i get this right, if you keep _clicking_ it on and off, it should stay put in your mode, if however you _tap_, it wont.

My AKO-Ray K106 has about a second of lag from when I click to the time it actually comes on, any delay like that on the PLI?

I dont suppose anybody has a pressure switch for this. Not a big deal.

How about nit picks, if you could change anything about the PLI.. it would be?


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## recDNA (Sep 27, 2009)

Stealth said:


> Big thank you Hondo and Kar.
> 
> 
> If i get this right, if you keep _clicking_ it on and off, it should stay put in your mode, if however you _tap_, it wont.
> ...


 

I would absolutely LOVE a MG PLI in bare aluminum, stainless steel, or Titanium. They all look the same to me. I do not want to pay more and aluminum seems to dissipate heat the best as well as being the cheapest so bare aluminum would be great. Whether it is brushed or glossy finish doesn't matter - I like both. Or even CHROME! I always had chrome flashlights as a kid ( I was hooked young). I wish I still had some of those old chrome beauties as hosts.

Heck, I'd love a rotating tail switch to change levels like the new Elzetta too but I suppose that would add to the price. The thing that makes the MG PLI great IS the price so I wouldn't want to add to it. How about making a rotating tail switch to control light levels an option for 10 bucks or so? Rotating tail switch is really ideal for mounted bicycle use IMO. Then the tactical momentary on feature could work without changing levels.

If it weren't for the need for a Li_ion battery and a charger and the hassle of explaining how to use them and the potential danger I'd buy one for all my co-workers in the lab. I think they are THAT good for use around the house. I have more expensive flashlights the the PLI is the one I actually USE all the time. It's especially good IN the house because it lights up an entire room on medium but can be used to work on the inside of electronics on low.

Now remember YOU asked for it but another option I would LOVE is a tritium tube mounted anywhere on the flashlight to help find it in the dark....again - to avoid price increase maybe a $20 option. I like tricked out flashlights but I have no time to do it.

I'll never understand why people spend over $100 on a host to add a $60 drop in that produces the same light as the MG-PLI! No, I don't work for them but if I were in the flashlight business it is the light I'd want to sell!


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## recDNA (Sep 27, 2009)

liketotallyrandom said:


> I decided to get an MG PLI as my flood beam for caving. It will replace one of the three lights on my helmet, specifically a 2AA LED [email protected] (single mode version). I loosened the PLI's head one-half turn, and the hole in the center of the beam is almost completely gone.
> 
> To make the PLI easier to find in a cave, I removed the camo paint.
> 
> ...


 
I don't know why but mine seems MUCH brighter on high than yours. Mine lights up my entire front yard. Maybe it's because I am in the country with absolutely no ambient light. As you know the darker it is the brighter the flashlight appears to be.

Great job on the paint removing. Your PLI looks to pretty to use now! 

Ever think of gluing on a tritium tube to make it easier to find in the dark?


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## liketotallyrandom (Sep 27, 2009)

To be sure, the image is just an approximation of my subjective impression while taking the picture. This is easily the brightest light I own, other than my 50 watt halogen spotlamp. I'm amazed I can finally put an affordable light this bright/floody on my caving helmet! :thumbsup: I'd love to see a mass-produced headlamp with an MC-E flood and an XR-E/XP-G spot. Tobias' thread says it all.

Also, a camera is incapable of recording, and a monitor incapable of displaying, the full dynamic range to which the human eye is sensitive (even High Dynamic Range Imaging, HDRI, only seeks to represent such a wide dynamic range through abstraction and optimum use of a compressed dynamic range via tone-mapping). In this non-HDRI image, you'll notice that the brightest and lowest areas of the image lack detail. The brightness of the closest blades of grass are washed-out, just as they would be if a car headlight was shining on them. Meanwhile, the darkest areas do not indicate the outer-spill of light that was falling on them. For this image, I was attempting to show the relative brightness of the wall, tree, and rope.


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## recDNA (Sep 27, 2009)

liketotallyrandom said:


> To be sure, the image is just an approximation of my subjective impression while taking the picture. This is easily the brightest light I own, other than my 50 watt halogen spotlamp. I'm amazed I can finally put an affordable light this bright/floody on my caving helmet! :thumbsup: I'd love to see a mass-produced headlamp with an MC-E flood and an XR-E/XP-G spot. Tobias' thread says it all.
> 
> Also, a camera is incapable of recording, and a monitor incapable of displaying, the full dynamic range to which the human eye is sensitive (even High Dynamic Range Imaging, HDRI, only seeks to represent such a wide dynamic range through abstraction and optimum use of a compressed dynamic range via tone-mapping). In this non-HDRI image, you'll notice that the brightest and lowest areas of the image lack detail. The brightness of the closest blades of grass are washed-out, just as they would be if a car headlight was shining on them. Meanwhile, the darkest areas do not indicate the outer-spill of light that was falling on them. For this image, I was attempting to show the relative brightness of the wall, tree, and rope.


 
I didn't mean to criticize your photography. I was afraid you were getting less output than I. I've never tried taking a picture of a beam so I'm sure it's just a matter of the difference between a photo and being there.


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## Vesper (Sep 27, 2009)

A few days ago I asked Bryan if they would have the black version of the PLI in again. His response:

"The new PLI most likely won't be here anytime soon. We might redesign it."

So I guess it'll be changing in some respect. Good light probably will get better.


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## recDNA (Sep 27, 2009)

Vesper said:


> A few days ago I asked Bryan if they would have the black version of the PLI in again. His response:
> 
> "The new PLI most likely won't be here anytime soon. We might redesign it."
> 
> So I guess it'll be changing in some respect. Good light probably will get better.


 
I hope so...if there were one serious flaw I'd complain about MG PLI it is the fleeting availability. I would think a light that provides so much more value/buck than some of the uppity long-time over priced brands so many swear by that PLI would sell by the boatload. Some of the threads about the ultra premium brands seem to have about many more complaints than I read about in this thread.


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## Stealth (Sep 27, 2009)

Has anybody got Low-Med-High runtimes yet?

Also, any delay from button click to turn on, or is it pretty much instant? My AKOray106 has about a 1 sec delay, annoys the crap out of me!


PS t/y to recDNA for his previous reply.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Sep 27, 2009)

Bryan, out of pure curiousity: why do you purchase these lights in such limited quantities, when they sell so well?


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## Hondo (Sep 28, 2009)

Stealth said:


> Has anybody got Low-Med-High runtimes yet?
> 
> Also, any delay from button click to turn on, or is it pretty much instant? My AKOray106 has about a 1 sec delay, annoys the crap out of me!
> 
> ...


 
There is no delay on this one, instant on to your last mode used.

I think you can expect, based on current draw, run times of at least one hour on high, two and a half hours on medium and over 10 hours on low, assuming at least a 2200 mAh 18650



Stealth said:


> If i get this right, if you keep _clicking_ it on and off, it should stay put in your mode, if however you _tap_, it wont.


 
No, actually. It does not matter whether you half-tap or click through the switch, only how long it has been on. Tapping is just easier on your thumb, and the switch. So, clicking repeatedly, not leaving it on for over two seconds _will_ advance modes just like tapping would. If you are hoping for an ability to tap out morse code at a fixed brightness, this is not the interface you want.


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## flatline (Sep 28, 2009)

Do people really use morse code with flashlights?


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## KiwiMark (Sep 28, 2009)

Hondo said:


> If you are hoping for an ability to tap out morse code at a fixed brightness, this is not the interface you want.




Of course you could always use the torch for morse code by covering and uncovering the light.

I got the E-Mail today saying mine has shipped, can't wait.


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## Stealth (Sep 29, 2009)

Vesper said:


> A few days ago I asked Bryan if they would have the black version of the PLI in again. His response:
> 
> "The new PLI most likely won't be here anytime soon. We might redesign it."
> 
> So I guess it'll be changing in some respect. Good light probably will get better.



Hope for the best

1) Turn Bezel mode change.
2) Warm Tint

I'd buy two. 



t/y for your response and clarification Hondo. I'm mostly worried about accidental mode change, I know there has been mention of it closer to the beginning of this thread. As it was put by a previous poster I too am looking for a 'bump in the night' light, so plenty of confidence in your mode is needed.

maybe I should bug Bryan for a single mode PLI.


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## KiwiMark (Sep 29, 2009)

Stealth said:


> Hope for the best
> 
> 1) Turn Bezel mode change.
> 
> maybe I should bug Bryan for a single mode PLI.




I wouldn't be interested in buying a single mode MC-E light. But a clicky on/off and bezel mode change Low-Med-High with memory (Like my Olight M20 but without strobe) would be something that I would be keen to part with money to own..


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## flatline (Sep 29, 2009)

Stealth said:


> Hope for the best
> 
> 1) Turn Bezel mode change.
> 2) Warm Tint
> ...



What is the appeal of turn-bezel-mode-change?

It seems a step backwards to me to require both hands for setting the desired mode when it's a simple one handed operation using the clickie.

--flatline


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## Stealth (Sep 29, 2009)

flatline said:


> What is the appeal of turn-bezel-mode-change?
> 
> It seems a step backwards to me to require both hands for setting the desired mode when it's a simple one handed operation using the clickie.
> 
> --flatline



For me, trust. (in the mode i am in)


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## KiwiMark (Sep 29, 2009)

flatline said:


> What is the appeal of turn-bezel-mode-change?
> 
> It seems a step backwards to me to require both hands for setting the desired mode when it's a simple one handed operation using the clickie.
> 
> --flatline



It only takes one hand to turn on or off the light. Click the button and the light turns on, click again and the light turns off. The idea is that you turn the light on and off far more often than you switch modes. Essentially this makes it like a single mode light that you can transform to a different single mode light by using both hands and doing a loosen-tighten of the head. This also means you could have a forward clicky switch and you could use the light for morse code if you wanted. You can also hand the light to a non-flashaholic and say "press here to turn it on or off", confident that they will be able to work your light.

For someone that leaves it in one mode a lot the turn-bezel-mode-change is really good.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Sep 29, 2009)

Stealth said:


> maybe I should bug Bryan for a single mode PLI.



Already tried that.  Bryan said it is not to be.


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## recDNA (Sep 29, 2009)

flatline said:


> What is the appeal of turn-bezel-mode-change?
> 
> It seems a step backwards to me to require both hands for setting the desired mode when it's a simple one handed operation using the clickie.
> 
> --flatline


 

I think the twist tail rather than the twist bezel is the perfect flashlight UI...especialy for bikes.


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## Ziemas (Sep 30, 2009)

recDNA said:


> I think the twist tail rather than the twist bezel is the perfect flashlight UI...especialy for bikes.


As a long time cycle commuter who uses flashlights I couldn't disagree more. You need two hands to twist, whilst just one to simply push the tailcap button. How would you change modes while riding or even while stopped with the light mounted on the bike if you needed to twist?


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## recDNA (Sep 30, 2009)

Why would you need two hands if the flashlight is mounted on the bike? Just reach and twist!


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## Ziemas (Sep 30, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Why would you need two hands if the flashlight is mounted on the bike? Just reach and twist!


You'd need two hands to keep the light from twisting in the mount.


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## recDNA (Sep 30, 2009)

Ziemas said:


> You'd need two hands to keep the light from twisting in the mount.


 
Nah..you can do a tail twist with one hand as easily as a push button....or at least I can. How loosely is your flashlight mounted anyway?


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## Mungon (Sep 30, 2009)

Well order one today and looking forward to brighten the masive darknes in Sweden now when its gettin pitch black  thanks for all opinions here , makes it easy to get what one need when all u ppl leaves feedback many thanks to u all / Micke


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## Ziemas (Oct 1, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Nah..you can do a tail twist with one hand as easily as a push button....or at least I can. How loosely is your flashlight mounted anyway?


It's in a Two Fish mount. I ride every day to work, so a permanently mounted light is out of the question. What do you use as a mount?


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## Ziemas (Oct 1, 2009)

Mungon said:


> Well order one today and looking forward to brighten the masive darknes in Sweden now when its gettin pitch black  thanks for all opinions here , makes it easy to get what one need when all u ppl leaves feedback many thanks to u all / Micke


You should get it very soon. SB has surprisingly fast shipping. I ordered mine on the 22nd of Sept and it arrived today in Latvia. Amazing.


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## skids625 (Oct 1, 2009)

HI: been using pli for 5months @ sheriff's dept it has pretty much taken the place of my fenix-tk11-r2 as a duty lite and @ my private reptile shop. The "intense" flood is just to much to believe, with 18650 i get weeks of lite, the three modes are icing on the cake!!


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## KiwiMark (Oct 1, 2009)

skids625 said:


> HI: been using pli for 5months @ sheriff's dept it has pretty much taken the place of my fenix-tk11-r2 as a duty lite and @ my private reptile shop. The "intense" flood is just to much to believe, with 18650 i get weeks of lite, the three modes are icing on the cake!!



It sound pretty darned good!



I hope mine arrives before the end of next week - should be so much fun to play with. I have a camping weekend and this should be a very impressive light due to the combination of fairly small light + incredibly bright output.

I have ordered some new 2600mAh 18650 cells from AW - should be good for plenty of run time.


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## recDNA (Oct 1, 2009)

skids625 said:


> HI: been using pli for 5months @ sheriff's dept it has pretty much taken the place of my fenix-tk11-r2 as a duty lite and @ my private reptile shop. The "intense" flood is just to much to believe, with 18650 i get weeks of lite, the three modes are icing on the cake!!


 
How do you decide when it is time to recharge?


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## Stealth (Oct 20, 2009)

My order is in, t/y to those who helped. I'll follow up with my impressions when it has arrived.


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## Stealth (Oct 26, 2009)

PLI has arrived. 




*Edit:* 1 day later, I turn it on and wth, Its flickering! All modes have a random flicker, very noticable. I tried reseating the battery and same effect. Whats going on with my new PLI?
*Edit 2:* 2 days later, flicker issue resolved, thank you lightbug(shiningbeam). Details are on the following page.

*


Condensed Short Review:*
Bright, Solid, Useful size and beam. 



*Better Review & Obsevations:*

Forward clicky was installed upon delivery, which was outstandingly speedy , from shiningbeam. I was worried about the UI before I got the PLI because I greatly favor bezel turn mode change, This UI hasent been such a problem like my AKO-ray 106. The 106 encourages you to leave the light off while it remembers the last mode (3 seconds off) the PLI encourages you to leave the light on while it remembers your current mode (3 seconds on), I find this setup much better and a big difference.. I'm not in the dark anymore.

Threads come pre lubed, dual orange orings seal the tailcap. The forward clicky is also orange. It can tailstand but barely, the button sticks out a hair so its the slightly leaning tower of Cree.

Overall shape fits great in my hand, better than my EagletacT100c2mk2, PLI seems more organic to hold, It also has roll stop feature. The finish is camo and just feels extremely durable, although im not sure other than that how to explain it. If I may use an analogy this feels like enamel paint vs normal paint (analogy only, I think its anodized?), I just get a 'feeling' however they did this finish it aint coming off, whereas oddly with the t100c2 it just feels like if I scratch it with my fingernail enough it will give, this dosent. Very smooth. Alittle lighter in weight than it looks, which is great.

The body has a square portion in the center instead of round all the way down the light.. I have an idea for mounting this square portion in a mount to a shotgun, If and when I do this we'll see just how much punishment this PLI can take.

The OP reflector looks as deep and round as the T100c2, 'defensive' bezel is slightly more aggressive than the eagletac and looks about par for the course.

This is my first multi die emitter. When compared to the eagletac, imagine the main 'cone' of light from the eagletac, even out the beam (t100c2 smo is laserishly tight focused) and up the power significantly. 

The spill to the sides is also multitudes brighter and much more useful than the ET, ultimatly I'd like some more spill straight to the sides as I intend this to be an up close light, but not everybody can afford a Malkoff MC-E (case in point:me). 

This light does actually throw quite good, despite the OP reflector and MC-E and the small shape of the light, It really is a pocket burner. Strangely out to 75ish yards (yes YARDS) with the very much flood oriented beam I would still actually take this over the narrow t100c2, even at that far distance it lights up objects (all of them lol) well enough. This is in pitch darkness though.

I was also worried about the WC Tint before it arrived as I'm outdoorsy and prefer warm -and I still would- over cool. However It dosent look cool to me, just very bright and I havent had any trouble seeing anything. You get a real sense of the amount of light it takes to project a solid cone of brightness, a sense I just dont get with the eagletac. This does have a bright hotspot center, which is phenomenal for such a floody beam, again.. thats a powerful light. 

Its 3 modes are in my opinion, Ideally spaced to encompass a variety of tasks, I do find myself blasting this on high most of the time.

*Conclusion:*

MG seems to have balanced this light so well.. I just may have to get another. They have balanced very usable spill, a supreme flood, plus a significant hotspot in a regulated 18650 rugged lighterweight body, and gave it all to me for under $55.





_stealth_


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## TooManyGizmos (Oct 26, 2009)

Very good and intresting report , Stealth .

So your light has a hot spot in the center , rather than a slight donut dark spot that some have reported .

I wonder , did you get a pick-of-the-litter , or if they have been improved and they all have a hotspot now ?

Can anyone else with a recent one confirm that the dark spot between the 4 dies is now gone from the beam ?


I don't see much dark spot in the beam centers in the beamshots on the first page , but some have reported it and say that loosening the bezel improves it. I'm hoping this adjustment is no longer necessary .
.


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## recDNA (Oct 26, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Very good and intresting report , Stealth .
> 
> So your light has a hot spot in the center , rather than a slight donut dark spot that some have reported .
> 
> ...


 

All you have to do is twist the head to the right spot and all of the Mg Pli's are donut hole free.


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## jhc37013 (Oct 26, 2009)

Stealth be sure the switch retaining ring in the tailcap is tightened down tight. I have the slightly older model and the ring comes loose every time I unscrew the tailcap. I'm sure you have a newer model so I don't know if those have that problem or not. Other than that not sure what to tell you besides try a different battery and clean the contacts.

Shiningbeam will take care of you if you still have problems.


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## Linger (Oct 26, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> I don't see much dark spot in the beam centers in the beamshots on the first page


 
I recieved the first PLI and the bezels were left for user adjustment. Backing it off a bit gives an excellent donut free beam.


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## TooManyGizmos (Oct 26, 2009)

But now they are not - we have to break them free.

Have to get out the strap wrenches


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## lightbug (Oct 26, 2009)

*Stealth,*
If the light flickers, it is most likely caused by the retaining ring or the steel ring under the switch. Please clean the threads, and tighten the retaining ring and the problem should go away. If the problem still there, than replace the steel ring with the thicker one that comes in accessory bag. Email me if this doesn't solve your problem. ([email protected]).


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## Stealth (Oct 27, 2009)

lightbug said:


> *Stealth,*
> If the light flickers, it is most likely caused by the retaining ring or the steel ring under the switch. Please clean the threads, and tighten the retaining ring and the problem should go away. If the problem still there, than replace the steel ring with the thicker one that comes in accessory bag. Email me if this doesn't solve your problem. ([email protected]).



I cleaned the threads off with my shirt, but couldnt figure out how to get the ring out or tighten it. Looks like the thread cleaning fixed it, for now. But for future reference how does one remove the ring?

Thanks for your help, *Lightbug*

*

TooManyGizmos*, 
I know I should have articulated my beam observations better, sorry. I meant to say although its flood is intense, there is still a bright and present center, I referred to that as a hotspot .. I'm not sure my terminology was right. The bright center is very large and seems to blend into the flood pretty good, very wide. 

There is a slight dark cross in the center as you were talking about. But that (to me) is only noticable when the light is 1 foot or closer to its target, also it basically takes a smooth wall surface to see. For all practical purposes I dont even see it in normal use. I was worried before I got it about the MCE 'black hole', but for me.. it is a non issue for sure, and I think you'd have to be pretty -err- picky to let it bother you. Heck, If I get close enough to a wall with my XPE EagleTac it too will have a dark center. I'd take a PLI Warm over a no 'black hole' PLI.





On a lighter note, I just blasted the closet in time to watch a spider (I had not seen before) drop its ladybug prey. Woops.


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## KiwiMark (Oct 27, 2009)

Stealth said:


> There is a slight dark cross in the center as you were talking about. But that (to me) is only noticable when the light is 1 foot or closer to its target, also it basically takes a smooth wall surface to see. For all practical purposes I dont even see it in normal use. I was worried before I got it about the MCE 'black hole', but for me.. it is a non issue for sure



This is also my experience with the MG - the darker cross is only visible on a flat white surface when close up, otherwise isn't visible. Totally not an issue at all!


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## TooManyGizmos (Oct 27, 2009)

Thank you for articulating ......... Stealth .

It helps


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## TooManyGizmos (Oct 27, 2009)

Thank you KiwiMark ...... also .


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## Stealth (Oct 27, 2009)

No problem. 

I forgot to thank jhc37013 for helping too.


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## lightbug (Oct 27, 2009)

Stealth,
I'm glad to hear the flicker problem is gone. To remove the retaining ring, you can use a pair of tweezers or a plier like the one below.


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## recDNA (Oct 27, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> But now they are not - we have to break them free.
> 
> Have to get out the strap wrenches


 
Oh I see...I had no idea they no longer adjusted. Mine was the last black run and it does adjust. I don't know if I'd mess with breaking it free if it isn't adjustable. Good luck!


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## Stealth (Oct 27, 2009)

t/y again lightbug. I'll try that sometime. 
Just curious, have the lubed threads been known to cause a flicker? Seems strange just cleaning them off solved my problem, like it did.



recDNA,
Yeah the new ones (camo) head wont twist, 'the spot' dosent bother me the least so I wont mess with it. From what I read twisting the bezel also decreases your brightness in the center, I think its just about ideal how it is. I don't see a reason to pursue them strap wrenches yet.



Another fun fact: Comes with a spare glow-in-the-dark button! Neat!

Also, this light has the habit of lighting up entire trees from top to bottom, and then also whatever you are looking at.. of course.

Question time: Who exactly makes the MG PLI, its not shiningbeam themselves is it?


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## recDNA (Oct 27, 2009)

Stealth said:


> t/y again lightbug. I'll try that sometime.
> Just curious, have the lubed threads been known to cause a flicker? Seems strange just cleaning them off solved my problem, like it did.
> 
> 
> ...


 
Ya, mine has the gitd boot and oring too. I assume Mg makes it. The flashlight company-not the car.


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## jhc37013 (Oct 28, 2009)

Stealth said:


> No problem.
> 
> I forgot to thank jhc37013 for helping too.



No problem and like lightbug shows above you can use needle nose pliers or even tweezers to loosen and tighten the retaining ring. The first time I ever needed to tighten one down I was caught without either pliers or tweezers so I took a dinner fork and bent the two middle prongs all the way down flush with the handle and used the other two prongs to reach the two holes in the ring. Sounds stupid but it worked until I got some skinny needle nose pliers.


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## Yucca Patrol (Dec 20, 2009)

How easy is it to completely dissassemble this flashlight. I simply cannot stand the green/black camo but really like the light itself. If it is easy to completely dissassemble, I might be willing to strip the paint/anodizing myself and have a silver colored version.

But having a color option other than camo would be really nice and would certainly boost sales from people like me who just don't want camo.


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## DArklite (Dec 29, 2009)

I got mine last week from Bryan - at first the head didn't want to budge, but after trying to loosen then tightening the head and repeating, it finally broke free in my hands. Using a fine-point Sharpie, I made reference dots on the body and head for re-alignment afterwards. The threads of the body and head are about halfway coated with the camo; I'll have to remove it with the Dremel. The body ends were also oxidized. I fine-filed the body ends; a quick cleanup later with Qtips and alcohol on all mating surfaces removed the remains. 
The reflector and lens are held in by a retaining ring with generous-sized detents; same for the tail switch although the retaining has smaller detents. A quick ring re-tightening and O-ring/thread re-lube with MagicLube (teflon) and it was good to go - for now.
That camo has GOT to go though; it can't be good for the heat-sinking and it looks and feels suspiciously like enamel paint and not anodization.
I'll disassemble and wire-wheel it down and hit the tighter areas with the Dremel's wire wheel.


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## joe1512 (Jan 7, 2010)

Any word on when more MG PLI's will be in stock? Looks like they are sold out as of today when I checked.


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## Egsise (Jan 8, 2010)

joe1512 said:


> Any word on when more MG PLI's will be in stock? Looks like they are sold out as of today when I checked.


I heard that this was the last batch for now, updated version is coming.

I did some runtime tests with my MG PLI MC-E warm white, tested with 2200mAh 18650 to 50% brightness.
I'll add the graph later.

High, 300 OTF ~50 min
Med, 110 OTF ~3 hours
Low, 40 OTF ~8 hours

Lumen readings are guessimates based on lightbox readings compared to Fenix TK11 R2, Fenix TK20 and Quark AA neutral white with 14500.

There was no difference in brightness between 18650 and 2xCR123.
With 18650 the light gets hot on high even though I used a fan.


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## sol-leks (Jan 8, 2010)

another update?
Any word as to what the new changes will be?


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## Egsise (Jan 11, 2010)

Egsise said:


> Lumen readings are guessimates based on lightbox readings compared to Fenix TK11 R2, Fenix TK20 and Quark AA neutral white with 14500.
> 
> There was no difference in brightness between 18650 and 2xCR123.
> With 18650 the light gets hot on high even though I used a fan.








Fenix LD10 Eneloop.........47 Quark AAw 14500......Fenix TK20...................MG PLI warm white


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## moses (Jan 11, 2010)

Is the warm white supposed to put out the same lumens as the regular cooler white?

Thanks


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## recDNA (Jan 11, 2010)

Egsise said:


> Fenix LD10 Eneloop.........47 Quark AAw 14500......Fenix TK20...................MG PLI warm white


 

Are these available again? Last time I checked they were all gone.


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## liketotallyrandom (Jan 11, 2010)

moses said:


> Is the warm white supposed to put out the same lumens as the regular cooler white?
> 
> Thanks



The 7C's are J bin, and the WC's are K bin. So WC's are a little brighter.


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## Egsise (Jan 11, 2010)

recDNA said:


> Are these available again? Last time I checked they were all gone.


No, read a few posts back.



moses said:


> Is the warm white supposed to put out the same lumens as the regular cooler white?



These were advertised 700 lumens for cool white and 600 lumens for warm white.


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## MrMom (Mar 22, 2010)

It has been a while. Is there any news on another production run? It is not listed on their website.


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## Corvette6769 (Jun 7, 2010)

MrMom said:


> It has been a while. Is there any news on another production run? It is not listed on their website.


Looks like https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/278285 will be the end of this thread.

Interestingly enough the **NEW** MG P-Rocket SST-50 Premium 800+ Lumens Compact LED Flashlight has the same dimensions as my MG PLI MC-E.


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