# New Rebel Maglite Switch



## JamisonM (Nov 29, 2009)

During the recent black friday, I scored myself several of the new rebel maglites in the 3D variety. The last I had hands on with them was earlier in the year and only of the 2D versions. I didn't really get to take them apart, but now I do. Pictures below. I hope this answers questions about how they are different. From the looks of it, they changed the switch assembly, battery tube, tailcap spring and reflector.

First up is the battery tubes. I placed each one in parallel and flush at each end. In the picture below, one is the older style used in the krypton and luxeon maglites (bottom) and the other is the newer style used in the rebel maglites (top). The battery tubes are the same length, but the rebel tube has been altered. It doesn't have the amount of threading at the head end that the older style does. As a result, the o-ring has been moved up to meet it. The hole for the switch is the in the same place.






Next is the tail cap spring. It has also been changed. Please bear with the comparison as it's the only tail cap spring that I have that's this close to being stock. The rebel tail cap spring doesn't have as many coils and I feel it isn't quite as stiff.





Now for the switch assembly. As you can see, they've changed it quite a bit.

















Here's the new reflector besides the older style of reflector with the cams trimmed. The rebel reflector is on the right. Besides making them deeper, the bulb opening is now 13mm wide compared to the 15mm of the older style of reflector.


----------



## elumen8 (Nov 29, 2009)

Great side by side pics. I picked up a couple of the 2D MagLEDS on black Friday also. I was about ready to disect one...don't need to anymore. :thumbsup:

JB


----------



## csshih (Nov 29, 2009)

hey look.. slightly more heatsinking


----------



## darkzero (Nov 29, 2009)

Interesting, thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:

Had no idea the Rebel Maglites were redesigned, I simply thought it was just another drop in like the Luxeon but with a Rebel emitter. So is the reflector different? Are they multimode as well?


----------



## Dave 88 (Nov 29, 2009)

> So is the reflector different?



Ditto that, im curious if its a new design. Maybe something that can clean up the donut in my P7 beam... At least worth a try for $15


----------



## JamisonM (Nov 29, 2009)

Updated first post with reflector info and pictures. 



Dave 88 said:


> Ditto that, im curious if its a new design. Maybe something that can clean up the donut in my P7 beam... At least worth a try for $15


Earlier in the year, I got two of the 2D rebel maglites. I sold them, but still have the reflectors. I used one of them with a P7. It doesn't get rid of the hole, but it does tighten of the beam a bit. You still have to defocus a little or use a textured reflector for a hole free experience. From what I understand, it's just the nature of emitter like the P7 when used with a reflector to produce a hole when they are focused. Using an emitter like the SST-50 shouldn't produce a hole like the P7.


----------



## PCC (Nov 29, 2009)

You beat me to the punch. I was just about to do the same with my 2D MagLites. Saves me the trouble, I guess.

About the end of the tube having less threads, it allows the head to sit about a quarter inch further out, making the Rebel MagLEDs about a quarter inch longer than the incan/previous MagLED models. This is because the deeper reflector will hit the end of the battery tube if you thread it in all the way on an older battery tube. If you were to trim down the end of the tube an appropriate amount you can swap the switch assembly and reflector over from a Rebel MagLED over to an older MagLite and it will work. The tailcap is identical between the older and newer lights as well as the head itself, minus the reflector.


----------



## darkzero (Nov 29, 2009)

JamisonM said:


> Here's the new reflector besides the older style of reflector with the cams trimmed. The rebel reflector is on the right. Besides making them deeper, the bulb opening is now 13mm wide compared to the 15mm of the older style of reflector.


 

Oh man, I want one, or better yet some!


----------



## elumen8 (Nov 29, 2009)

Hey JamisonM, you did such a nice job on the photos of the 2D...do you think you could do the same photos with a 2AA mini mag? hint hint 

JB


----------



## JamisonM (Nov 29, 2009)

If you guys want an idea of what kind of beam the new rebel reflector produces, there are some beamshots I took in my XP-G maglite mod thread.


----------



## vestureofblood (Nov 30, 2009)

LOL, 

I just tore into mine last night as well. The reflector was the thing that got me the most excited. I did notice the other variations as well. Better heat sinking the switch etc. I took the pill out and slipped it into a 2aa magled and even on 2aa its still very bright. To be honest the output of the light blew me away, ( I guess I wasn't expecting much) The laser like beam and ultra small hot spot on full focus was a surprise too. 

I sure would like to get my hands on about 5 of these reflectors.

Hey did anyone else get serial numbers on theirs, I didn't:shrug:


----------



## jasonck08 (Dec 5, 2009)

I used a Maglite Rebel with one of FM's reflectors for a custom XP-G build.

Turns out the Rebel Maglites have a few less threads then standard mags in the head. This made it so I could not properly focuse the MOP Aluminum reflector from FM. I had to use a stock reflector. What a shame... Just a word of caution!


----------



## spc (Dec 5, 2009)

jasonck08 said:


> I used a Maglite Rebel with one of FM's reflectors for a custom XP-G build.
> 
> Turns out the Rebel Maglites have a few less threads then standard mags in the head. This made it so I could not properly focuse the MOP Aluminum reflector from FM. I had to use a stock reflector. What a shame... Just a word of caution!



Sink the heatsink lower in the body and use the stock rebel reflector:devil:
unless thats what you meant when you said you had to use the stock reflector


----------



## bhds (Dec 5, 2009)

Are these new maglites focusable? Anyone have output comparisons to a malkoff dropin?


----------



## jasonck08 (Dec 5, 2009)

spc said:


> Sink the heatsink lower in the body and use the stock rebel reflector:devil:
> unless thats what you meant when you said you had to use the stock reflector


 
I had to use a stock "normal" mag reflector, because I didn't want to sink the heatsink down. The FM Aluminum OP reflector that I wanted to use is a few mm not as deep as a normal stock mag reflector, and it wouldn't go down far enough to focus the XPG to a spot. Perhaps I could have tried to raise up the heatsink 2mm or so, instead of it sitting flush.

Just wanted to point out that there are a lot of minor differences between a standard 3D mag and a rebel 3D.


----------



## JamisonM (Dec 5, 2009)

bhds said:


> Are these new maglites focusable? Anyone have output comparisons to a malkoff dropin?


They are. They focus just like the the older luxeon III and incan maglites. Output wise, they should be close. However, the Malkoff drop-in has much better heatsinking.



jasonck08 said:


> I had to use a stock "normal" mag reflector, because I didn't want to sink the heatsink down. The FM Aluminum OP reflector that I wanted to use is a few mm not as deep as a normal stock mag reflector, and it wouldn't go down far enough to focus the XPG to a spot. Perhaps I could have tried to raise up the heatsink 2mm or so, instead of it sitting flush.
> 
> Just wanted to point out that there are a lot of minor differences between a standard 3D mag and a rebel 3D.


 Maybe cutting and stripping a piece of 12awg or larger wire would fix the problem?


----------



## bhds (Dec 6, 2009)

JamisonM said:


> They are. They focus just like the the older luxeon III and incan maglites. Output wise, they should be close. However, the Malkoff drop-in has much better heatsinking.



Interesting, its nice to see maglite catching up with the current technologies. I love the output of my malkoff modded 2D and 3D but really hate the way you have to unscrew the heads to focus.


----------



## mrsinbad (Dec 7, 2009)

Hey JamisonM,

I snagged me a 2D and 3D [email protected] LED on a Black Friday deal too. I loaded both up with alkalines and found the 2D version to be brighter than the 3D version. Did you get the same results? Anyone else?


----------



## ledaholic (Dec 7, 2009)

mrsinbad said:


> Hey JamisonM,
> 
> I snagged me a 2D and 3D [email protected] LED on a Black Friday deal too. I loaded both up with alkalines and found the 2D version to be brighter than the 3D version. Did you get the same results? Anyone else?



Yes, the same results as you.


----------



## JamisonM (Dec 7, 2009)

mrsinbad said:


> Hey JamisonM,
> 
> I snagged me a 2D and 3D [email protected] LED on a Black Friday deal too. I loaded both up with alkalines and found the 2D version to be brighter than the 3D version. Did you get the same results? Anyone else?


I can't say. The last time I had one of the 2D rebel maglites was earlier in the year. I've since sold them, but kept the reflectors.


----------



## Aircraft800 (Dec 8, 2009)

vestureofblood said:


> Hey did anyone else get serial numbers on theirs, I didn't:shrug:


 
Hold on to that one! They now have the serial number and Patented in U.S.A laser engraved on the same side left of the switch opposed to being stamped in on opposite sides. Both of mine start with DLXXXXXXXXX, are all the LED Rebel start with DLXXXXXXXXX? Incan was just D.

I'm sad I only picked up 2 X 2D rebel, and 4 mode Mini rebel, I should have grabbed a bunch to share!!


----------



## Robin24k (Dec 9, 2009)

vestureofblood said:


> I took the pill out and slipped it into a 2aa magled and even on 2aa its still very bright.


Slightly off topic, but how did you remove it from the 2AA?


----------



## PCC (Dec 9, 2009)

Unscrew the tailcap and dump the batteries out. Unscrew the head and look at the top of the flashlight body. You should see a shiny metal can with an LED in the middle surrounded by a black plastic ring. The plastic ring is a retaining ring that holds the pill in place. Use a screwdriver and carefully press straight down on the metal part, avoiding the emitter in the middle. With enough pressure the pill will pop and fall out of the bottom. Be careful not to lose the black plastic ring that will fall out if you flip the flashlight body upside down.


----------



## Robin24k (Dec 10, 2009)

Hmm, interesting. Good to know!

And to replace it you just push the batteries into the pill and screw on the tailcap?


----------



## PCC (Dec 11, 2009)

Flip the body tube upside-down, drop the pill in, LED down, carefully slide two AA batteries into the tube then put the tail cap back on then press the plastic ring on as far as it will go against the spring in the tail cap. Screw the head in all the way and the plastic ring will click into place.


----------



## Robin24k (Dec 11, 2009)

Cool, thanks for the info. Sounds like this could be of help if an alkaline leaked or something like that. Energizer E2 Lithiums are on the way, as well as Duracell Pre-Charged NiMHs, so I won't be using alkaline in my Mags for long.


----------



## TheInvader (Dec 15, 2009)

Has anyone dissected the switch tower yet?
The lower height may be useful in a normal Mag body, in a large bulb hotwire mod.


----------



## Robin24k (Dec 15, 2009)

Didn't the OP dissect it? I also took mine out and unscrewed the pointed screw too much, and it wouldn't go back in, so I had to remove the switch and put the screw back in from the outside.


----------



## elumen8 (Dec 19, 2009)

I'm doing the 2D to 2AA pill swap just for fun...but I'm not having any fun removing the 2D pill from its silver housing. Any easy method for popping it out, or do I just need to push down harder?

Thanks,
JB

edit: I pushed out the 2D pill...I guess I was too paranoid to break it at first. Its actually a pretty robust little pill.


----------



## Robin24k (Dec 19, 2009)

The 2D is pretty easy...remove the switch and use the 5/64 wrench to remove the screw, and the pill pops right out. No need to push anything...?


----------



## elumen8 (Dec 20, 2009)

Robin24k said:


> The 2D is pretty easy...remove the switch and use the 5/64 wrench to remove the screw, and the pill pops right out. No need to push anything...?


 
There is a little lip on the inner edge of the silver assembly that was slightly catching the thin black pastic liner piece. Mine didn't pop right out, took a little pressure to remove. I didn't want to force anything to break just in case. Its all good.

JB


----------



## Robin24k (Dec 20, 2009)

Oh. My 3D's jumped out and rolled onto the floor as soon when I removed the screw because of the spring underneath...


----------



## Linger (Dec 20, 2009)

switch tower is the same (i have several years old 2D, new 2D incan, new 3D rebel). Difference is the bottom contact plate as shown in picks above. And protrusion at the bottom of the cylindrical switching unit - it just makes the pieces incompatible until you trim the protrusion off.


----------



## Aircraft800 (Dec 20, 2009)

Linger said:


> switch tower is the same (i have several years old 2D, new 2D incan, new 3D rebel). Difference is the bottom contact plate as shown in picks above. And protrusion at the bottom of the cylindrical switching unit - it just makes the pieces incompatible until you trim the protrusion off.


 
:thinking: What, my rebel Mag is totally different height and diameter just like the OP's picture. I've even cut it off for my SST-50 mod.


----------



## FroggyTaco (Sep 9, 2010)

Did anyone ever figure out torx/star driver to use to loosen the switch assy in the 2D light?


----------



## wquiles (Sep 9, 2010)

FroggyTaco said:


> Did anyone ever figure out torx/star driver to use to loosen the switch assy in the 2D light?



It is all in this thread:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3515694#post3515694


----------



## FroggyTaco (Sep 9, 2010)

Thanks...I actually tried using a 5/64 & it worked perfectly even though it is definitely a torx screw in there. Bought from a brand new lowes during black friday.


----------



## Robin24k (Sep 9, 2010)

Torx? You sure? The one in my 3D is a 5/64 hex...


----------



## PCC (Sep 9, 2010)

5/64 hex is the old screw and T8 Torx is the new screw. Even though you bought your light today it could be either old or new depending on how well your store's stock moves. The 3D MagLED that I bought at Costco (with the 2AA Rebel MagLED) to mod for bigchelis came with the Torx screw.


----------



## Robin24k (Sep 9, 2010)

Interesting, looks like I'll be covered with the T5-T10 set I got at Home Depot a while back.


----------



## PCC (Sep 9, 2010)

Maybe not. Does your T8 fit inside of the hole in the Mag switch? The one that you would normally stick the 5/32 Allen wrench into? the biggest problem folks have is that almost all T8 Torx wrenches flare out above the part that makes contact with the head of the bolt and this makes them too big to fit into that hole. Try it.


----------



## Robin24k (Sep 9, 2010)

Good point, don't know. I was sort of being facetious because I probably won't be getting any new D-size lights since the new C-cell lights are coming out.


----------



## saltytri (Sep 10, 2010)

Robin24k said:


> since the new C-cell lights are coming out.



I must have missed this news. Details?


----------



## Robin24k (Sep 10, 2010)

Check the thread about the ML100, ML125, and ML150:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/262689


----------

