# What should I put in this beauty?



## DM51 (Feb 3, 2008)

This is a beautiful-looking light, made up from 3x 26700 BigLeef body units, BigLeef tailcap, BigLeef Mag-neck, and a Fivemega FM3V-2 turbo-head. The quality of all the components is superb.









Note how the ‘tear-drop’ pattern on the BigLeef body complements the fluting on the Fivemega turbo-head. The gray color is a very good match too. 

The one jarring note is the neck module, which is black, not gray. For some reason which totally baffles me, Leef did not produce any gray ones. (_Where do I find that small round yellow cartoon face thing scratching its head in perplexity, so I can insert it here?_)








This is a BIG light. Here it is compared in size to a Surefire M6. It makes the M6 look pretty small, which of course it isn’t. 














However at this stage it is still EMPTY.

This brings me to question #1: what should I put in it? The body would take either 3x A123 cells, or 3x Emoli, or maybe 4x AW ‘C’ Li-Ion cells. The A123 or Emoli options sound good, as either of these could run a high-current bulb. 

I also have a couple more of these 26700 BigLeef body modules on the way from Lighthound, so it could be a 4x 26700, or even a 5x! This could turn into a pretty serious light. What combinations would be best for it? 

Question #2 is where it all gets a bit technical (for me, anyway). Here is the inside of the neck:








Somehow, a bulb-holder (etc) goes in there. The question is, which one? Kiu? What do I need? Has anyone else fitted out one of these necks, and if so, how did you do it? 

Advice will be gratefully received!


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 3, 2008)

I don't have much (if any) help for you, but I had to comment on this bad boy. That is one of the nicest looking flashlights I've ever seen! The black section really doesn't detract from the overall look of the light, although it does seem a little odd that he would make all the parts gray but make that one section black. 
I couldn't find the hair scratch iron either, must be gone. :laughing:

I suggest you make this thing is absolutely bright as possible! Mag623 maybe.


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## Kiessling (Feb 3, 2008)

This is one of the most elegant lights I have seen. Really great :thumbsup:

Something great should be in there. Maybe wait for the 4-die Seoul emitters?

bernie


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## Icebreak (Feb 3, 2008)

How ever you configure it to be it would make an outstanding torch for the Olympics. Looks like industrial art to me. Very nice.


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## Illum (Feb 3, 2008)

*twitch* *twitch"
how did you uh...acquire such a...uh

totally speechless at the moment :bow:


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## glockboy (Feb 3, 2008)

Put 10 Crees in it.:twothumbs


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## Mash (Feb 3, 2008)

Maybe give Milky a call??
Im sure he would be able to recommend something that will amaze us all!


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## Kiessling (Feb 3, 2008)

The idea for the perfect sleeper: put some M&M's in there. I bet it takes a boatload of them. Then everybody thinks you got a bad *** light, but instead you've got better


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 3, 2008)

Man, what a spectacular light. Probably the best thing is just let me take if off your hands, then you won't hve to worry about what to do with it. 

I would start with 3 Emoli and put a '625 in it, or maybe see if you can fit an AW C driver multi-level which would give a nice variety of light. Is it essentially a C Mag diameter, or a little larger?


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## DM51 (Feb 3, 2008)

Thanks for the comments – at nearly 15 inches long, the light is certainly quite a head-turner. The parts are available - all I did was get hold of them and put them together. The Fivemega FM3V-2 Turbohead and BigLeef body could have been made for each other.

As to what to put in it, at the moment I'm inclining towards a BIG incan bulb - a 623, or maybe a 458 when I get the extra body modules. Another 2 would make it 20 ins long.

Lux - the body sections are 73mm long x 26.5mm ID, so they are 'C' diameter. There's ~5-10 mm play at each end, head and tail, as the springs are quite long. The tail switch is good for 10A, I believe.


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## Radio (Feb 3, 2008)

I'd put an Ostar in it but then I'm an LED guy


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## Carpenter (Feb 3, 2008)




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## paulr (Feb 3, 2008)

It is beautiful and I like the accent of the black ring in the middle. IMO this light is too refined-looking to put in a direct drive bulb holder, resulting in what amounts to a tarted up mag85. If you're going to fit it with an incan, it should have something like an LVR. If you want to go led, I agree with the idea of contacting Milky about something like a 10-Cree setup.


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## Hallis (Feb 3, 2008)

I say sent the neck out for re-plating  Or order the bare one and send it to FM to have it matched. 

As far as what to put in it im not sure. Depends on what you can get in the body. I've got a lot of impressively bright lights but nothing with intergalactic runtime. Think LuxLuthor could probably hook you up with a nice combo parallel/series pack for it. Although i dont know what you could fit inside the bodies as i have not researched them.

Edit: forgot to add that your host is VERY pretty. 

Shane


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## stitch_paradox (Feb 3, 2008)

Looks like a piece of art from the museum! This is one of the nicest looking light I have ever seen! :thumbsup: IMHO, a powerful incan bulb would suit better the light. LEDs seems to be more modern where as this light looks like it came from the Victorian era. This would make a great "antique" sleeper light.


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## SafetyBob (Feb 4, 2008)

Whether you go with a multiple LED setup or an incan setup, it will be a very, very nice light. I have to agree with everyone so far, that is a beautiful flashlight. That, unfortunately, has given me another reason to go blow some more money on......darn hobby!!

Bob E.


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 5, 2008)

DM51 said:


> Thanks for the comments – at nearly 15 inches long, the light is certainly quite a head-turner. The parts are available - all I did was get hold of them and put them together. The Fivemega FM3V-2 Turbohead and BigLeef body could have been made for each other.
> 
> As to what to put in it, at the moment I'm inclining towards a BIG incan bulb - a 623, or maybe a 458 when I get the extra body modules. Another 2 would make it 20 ins long.
> 
> Lux - the body sections are 73mm long x 26.5mm ID, so they are 'C' diameter. There's ~5-10 mm play at each end, head and tail, as the springs are quite long. The tail switch is good for 10A, I believe.



That ID should allow Emoli to fit....I think C mags are like 26.1mm. I know my Emoli with Kapton is 26.2mm Looking at the BigLeef now.

One reason to go with 625 is less voltage, shorter length.

Just ignore the "LED Jockeys" LOL!!  :nana:

Also, looking at all those Leef parts, can you say which parts you got, cause I already have a couple of those FM heads? It looks like they have gray and black sections, so did you just get that black section, or is that the only color for that joining piece?


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## Hallis (Feb 5, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> That ID should allow Emoli to fit....I think C mags are like 26.1mm. I know my Emoli with Kapton is 26.2mm Looking at the BigLeef now.
> 
> One reason to go with 625 is less voltage, shorter length.
> 
> ...




The jointing pieces i think only come in black and bare


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## ElectronGuru (Feb 5, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> Also, looking at all those Leef parts, can you say which parts you got, cause I already have a couple of those FM heads? It looks like they have gray and black sections, so did you just get that black section, or is that the only color for that joining piece?



Hey Lux,

I'm just getting into incans, but I spent the weekend studying Leefiness for another project. I believe this is what you want:


1 *mag d neck, black*

2 *mag d neck, unfinished*

3 *body piece, black*

4 *body piece, gray*

5 *tailcap, black*

6 *tailcap, gray*

I believe DM51 has *1*, *4* (xQTY), and *6* (mostly gray)
*1*, *3* (xQTY), and *5* would be all black


**Grayed out in favor of post 51, the complete recipe*
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2365773#post2365773


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## ElectronGuru (Feb 6, 2008)

On the greatness of DM51's creation and the *possibility* of LuxLuthor's participation, I just spent more on a flashlight part (FMs turbo head) than I have ever imagined spending (never mind actually spend) on an entire flashlight.

Lux,

I will be following this thread with great interest and would love to duplicate whatever you end up doing with yours.


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## ernsanada (Feb 6, 2008)

DM51,

Smilie list at Smilie List

I keep it in my "Favorites" lists so I can refer to it when needed.


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## DM51 (Feb 6, 2008)

Thanks for the links, ElectronGuru, I meant to do something about that last night, but I ran out of time to deal with it. BTW, I see you just snapped up the last black FM3V-2, so I think I can guess what you are planning! Excellent – go for it!

Yes, I have a gray tailcap, black neck and 5 body sections. It was 3 body sections, but the extra 2 arrived today from Lighthound. I screwed them all together and this thing is now hee-uuuuge, lol. 

Actually, I think 3 or 4 sections is a nicer size – the proportions somehow look better (3 is the version in the photos in post #1). The great thing is that it is flexible that way – you can change the length whenever you want to, for different bulbs and power packs.

3 or 4 body sections means it could take 3 or 4 emoli or A123s, so LuxLuthor’s idea of a 64625 bulb is a good one, or maybe a 64623 with 4 sections. I’m still completely undecided, and in no hurry. 

The neck comes in black or unplated (raw) only. No gray available. Getting a raw one, then having it plated gray, would probably be the best solution, as Hallis suggests. I haven’t heard that Leef is going to do any of these himself. 

Lux, I see from the FM sales thread that you are also one of the select few who has a FM3V-2 turbohead in black – so black BigLeef parts might be a good way for you to go, the same as ElectronGuru, if you are going to put one of these together.

Thanks for all the comments.


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 6, 2008)

Yeah, I noticed that I had one of those turbo's sitting on the desk. Does leef have all the pieces in black, or is it always gonna need a mix/match of gray/black?


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## DM51 (Feb 6, 2008)

You get the pieces from Lighthound, at the links given by ElectronGuru in post #19 - or just do a search for 'BigLeef' on the LH website. Leef sells all his stuff through them - not direct.

If you try to order something that is out of stock, you get an immediate onscreen message to that effect. Alternatively, just e-mail or talk to John there - he'll tell you what they have in stock.


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## ElectronGuru (Feb 6, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> Yeah, I noticed that I had one of those turbo's sitting on the desk. Does leef have all the pieces in black, or is it always gonna need a mix/match of gray/black?



Lux, stick with these three and you'll have all black Leef's:

1 of these, in stock: Y
http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3164

1 of these, in stock: Y
http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3167

1+ of these, in stock: Y
http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3157


Add them to your black FiveMega head and you'll have a completely black light.


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## ElectronGuru (Feb 6, 2008)

DM51,



> I see you just snapped up the last black FM3V-2, so I think I can guess what you are planning! Excellent – go for it!



I spent most of my weekend studying Leef options, and nothing even remotely like this came to mind. Since seeing yours. Wow, I can think of little else.




> The neck comes in black or unplated (raw) only. No gray available. Getting a raw one, then having it plated gray, would probably be the best solution, as Hallis suggests.



If you go that route, I would be honored to buy the black neck from you...




> Yes, I have a gray tailcap, black neck and 5 body sections. It was 3 body sections, but the extra 2 arrived today from Lighthound. I screwed them all together and this thing is now hee-uuuuge, lol.



Adding leefs to the middle to make something longer, hmmm 





> Actually, I think 3 or 4 sections is a nicer size – the proportions somehow look better (3 is the version in the photos in post #1). The great thing is that it is flexible that way – you can change the length whenever you want to, for different bulbs and power packs.



Would you mind posting pictures of each length option?


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 7, 2008)

ElectronGuru said:


> Lux, stick with these three and you'll have all black Leef's:
> 
> 1 of these, in stock: Y
> http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3164
> ...



Perfect! Thanks VERY much for making this easy to sort through gray and black. Just ordered all 3 parts with 4 of body....to get a 4 x Emoli setup.


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## Gryloc (Feb 7, 2008)

I am a big LED dude, however, I do not think that this beauty should have a bunch of modern LED emitters in it (Even though a few dozen Rebel 0100's and McR12-R emitters would be hella-cool). How about a single Luxeon I Low dome powered at 300mA to err on the side of safety? Lol. Please don't stone me... :duck:

Actually, would placing the typical incandescent bulb in there be the easy way to mod the light. There isn't enough uniqueness to it, IMHO.

I say you should call up Ra and do a super high-power HID mod! Sure the reflector could be bigger (like a searchlight), but would that matter if you have many thousands of lumens spewing out of this light in a relatively tight beam? Might as well take advantage of the greater current handling of the light body and the choice of batteries, AND take advantage of the great efficiency of the HID bulb. I am sure you can fit a nice sized ballast in the neck, right? Come on... do it! :devil:

Well, if you think that HID is boring, then what about a tri or quad high powered light? How big is that Turbo head? I am not very familiar with the Leef body parts (unfortunately too much $$ for me). What about three or four decent sized reflectors placed in there, then you use 3 or 4 10-25W HID bulbs in there? That would be very unique, and still awesome. If it would not make sense to do that due to beam shaping (reflector size) or efficiency, then I still stand behind the idea of a super high power HID light. Ra said in one of his threads that a 50W HID would produce ~5500 lumens. I read that short arc lights are far less efficient, but they have a very high arc surface brightness. Too bad they are an utter danger to work with. Even a nice HID bulb from an automotive headlight or an after market off-road light would be amazing! :candle:

What do you think? It is a little more difficult and expensive than the typical light bulb, but it is amazing (something LEDs cant touch in a practical manner for a few more years).

Oh yeah, my LED side keeps jumping out: What about replacing the head with Data's Data Bank 72? That thing uses 72 Q5 XR-E's at 1800mA each, producing over 30,000 lumens of light! I can see how weight may be an issue...

Ra's Maxablaster (1st thread):
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=125819
Ra's Maxablaster (2nd thread):
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/139958
Data's Data Bank 72:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/178130



-Tony


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 7, 2008)

I was going to use mine for a battery powered, retractable dog leash. Or maybe I'll set it up with exploding dye cartriges, and sell it to PETA so they can walk up to ladies wearing fur coats. The FM 3" head would surely give a wider spray pattern.


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 7, 2008)

How do I get a hold of Leef? 

Maybe he will see this post. I sent him a PM here with no response, also suggesting that he make a modular system like this that would be a bit wider (& smaller I.D. than Elephant) to fit 3 wide 18650 cells. Not sure if Leef owns Lighthound, but sent same message to them.


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## ElectronGuru (Feb 7, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> How do I get a hold of Leef?
> 
> Maybe he will see this post. I sent him a PM here with no response, also suggesting that he make a modular system like this that would be a bit wider (& smaller I.D. than Elephant) to fit 3 wide 18650 cells. Not sure if Leef owns Lighthound, but sent same message to them.



Leef is a great builder who uses Lighthound (another great guy) to handle all his sales. I PM'd him last week about another request (complete M60 hosts) and he said we was swamped for a least a few months more and couldn't take on another project.

Here is the thread for the modular BigLeef system (what you just bought). The system did not originally include Maglite compatibility, but added it after the fact (hence the no gray D-neck):
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/165252

This is the thread for the non modular 18650 bodies, designed to work with Surefires:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/142976

My take is that he would take on a third line if 1) he has the time and mind space and 2) he sees enough demand that they won't sit on the shelf.


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## ElectronGuru (Feb 8, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> Perfect! Thanks VERY much for making this easy to sort through gray and black. Just ordered all 3 parts with 4 of body....to get a 4 x Emoli setup.





DM51 said:


> As to what to put in it, at the moment I'm inclining towards a BIG incan bulb - a 623, or maybe a 458 when I get the extra body modules. Another 2 would make it 20 ins long.


 

Awesome! :thumbsup:

My 'high power' incan building experience is limited to a single ROP and I only just read about Emoli's. Can't wait to see what we come up with!


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## DM51 (Feb 10, 2008)

EG, you asked me for a pic of the light with the extra body sections in place - here is one with all 5 of them. The M6, 3x A2 and L1 are in the shot for scale comparison. As you can see, when configured like this it is a l-o-o-o-o-o-ng light - 20½ inches.


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## 65535 (Feb 11, 2008)

Did you guys forget about a 35-50 watt HID???


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 12, 2008)

Here is my blackie. I think I better get one more black body segment. Also, I like how you can fit the Emoli cells even with original cardboard tube. Nice job Leef !!!


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## Icebreak (Feb 12, 2008)

ooooo. Prettier than a 12Z. Really nice.


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## wallyrulz (Feb 12, 2008)

DM51 said:


> EG, you asked me for a pic of the light with the extra body sections in place - here is one with all 5 of them. The M6, 3x A2 and L1 are in the shot for scale comparison. As you can see, when configured like this it is a l-o-o-o-o-o-ng light - 20½ inches.



:wow:

That is just awesome. It is amazing that it looks like those were all made to go together.  I always thought the FM head looked much classier than the mag bodies on which they resided. Looks like the Leef system is a match made in heaven.

Seems like 4 emoli's could give a 64623 better than the typical 10 minute runtime it sees in the gee wizz lights. That would be pretty awesome, because it could actually be used, not just shown off burning paper. That could seriously mess with your perception of all other lights though oo:. 

Can't wait to see what you do with it.


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## DM51 (Feb 12, 2008)

wallyrulz said:


> Can't wait to see what you do with it.


I shall be observing Mr Luthor very closely, to see what he does with his black one. He knows far more about building these things than I do. 

It looks like a '623 may be what he has in mind for his. However he is talking about getting a 5th body section, so one cannot really be sure. That could just be a cunning ploy, to throw the rest of us off track, lol.


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 12, 2008)

DM51 said:


> I shall be observing Mr Luthor very closely, to see what he does with his black one. He knows far more about building these things than I do.
> 
> It looks like a '623 may be what he has in mind for his. However he is talking about getting a 5th body section, so one cannot really be sure. That could just be a cunning ploy, to throw the rest of us off track, lol.



:naughty::kiss::naughty: Now I just have to retrieve some of that Black Kryptonite.


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## Raoul_Duke (Feb 12, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> Here is my blackie. I think I better get one more black body segment. Also, I like how you can fit the Emoli cells even with original cardboard tube. Nice job Leef !!!



& I remember a time when you wouldn't go any larger than a 4D mag length Lux because they were to cumbersome... :naughty: 

The demand for more power and capacity = big lights  

Nice looking light you have there BTW!

I run with 4 emoli on the 623 and 5 emoli on the 458

Is that your plan also? :thumbsup:


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## shroomy (Feb 12, 2008)

DM51 said:


>



DM51, you have to many beautiful lights. :nana:

I really can't wait to see what both you and LuxLuthor do with those things. 

BTW, I do think that it looks better in silver than in black.


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## Illum (Feb 13, 2008)

shroomy said:


> DM51, you have to many beautiful lights. :nana:



you should see what DM51 keeps in his cigar box :naughty:

DM51, Lux...you two should go and bump the big gun's thread
*BIG GUNS Collections - Weenies need not apply*


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 17, 2008)

First, we need to take apart the Leef neck, as his setup with tracing contact is not adequate/secure enough for our hotwire. Pictures show removal of retaining clip, PCB taken out. Spring will be removed, and tracing contact sanded off.

First thing we want is to fit a KIU pedestal inside top of Leef neck....but wouldn't you know it....I.D. is 33mm, and outside diameter of KIU is 34.15mm.

So we do a quick reaming out with our KD Brake Hone to enlarge it.

Next step will be a workable way to anchor KIU....stay tuned.


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## DM51 (Feb 17, 2008)

Is that a Kiu D kit? Did you consider using a C kit instead, or would that make fixing it in place more of a problem?


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 18, 2008)

DM51 said:


> Is that a Kiu D kit? Did you consider using a C kit instead, or would that make fixing it in place more of a problem?



The difference is very close with a D KIU pedestal, and I would rather do a KD Hone quick bore for a few minutes to get a tighter fit, than deal with the slop of a 25mm C size in a 33mm I.D.


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## bfg9000 (Feb 18, 2008)

Osram Halostar IRC 65w on 5+ cells. The same power consumption as the 64625 at ~120w, only with ~4000L instead of 3000 because it's the world's most efficient incan at near 50L/w (was actually pushed to 59L/w before flashing here).


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 18, 2008)

That is a classic old thread...especially starting out with the certainty of LM/W limits on page one....but also represents some of the best history of CPF.


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## Empyfree (Feb 18, 2008)

This deserves somthing really really special fitted into the front of it. I feel it calls for a collaboration (spelling?) between the "Big Guns" of the LED and Incandescent worlds to create a "best of both" solution. Is there space in a FM head like that to fit a slightly smaller reflector in the centre for the Incandescent monster, leaving space around the outside for a ring of LED's, To be able to run both together would be amazing!


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## easilyled (Feb 18, 2008)

I actually think that the black neck piece sets off the light
very nicely. It still looks as if its all meant to go together because
of the tear-drop pattern but gives it a welcome contrast at the same time.

I agree with Bernie about the Seoul-P7.

It could be driven really hard because there would be terrific heat-sinking
with such a large surface area of metal to draw the heat away.

If the right reflector could be used, maybe this could be a modern type
of MRX with a really intense, throwy beam.

I guess you can tell from my CPF name that I'm more of an led guy.

I also like the idea of a powerful HID though.


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 18, 2008)

Raoul_Duke said:


> & I remember a time when you wouldn't go any larger than a 4D mag length Lux because they were to cumbersome... :naughty:
> 
> The demand for more power and capacity = big lights
> 
> ...



I know....I just finished heating up a generous portion of Hot Humble Pie in the microwave...now a scoop of Häagen-Dazs Vanilla, and I'm all set. 






I was leaning towards the IRC 50/65. I can't imagine using something this long, with such high current Emoli cells for an LED. It seems with a light this big, that it needs to have some balls. :naughty:


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## ElectronGuru (Feb 19, 2008)

*Roman Candle -> Recipe*

With a nod from DM51, I'm calling this the *Roman Candle*. Here's the recipe:

*Ingredients*

*1)* FiveMega Turbo *Head* (FM3V-2), black or gray x1
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/174247​

*2a)* black 

BigLeef *Neck* x1
http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3164

BigLeef *Tail* x1
http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3167

BigLeef *Body* x5
http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3157​

*2b)* gray 

BigLeef *Neck* x1 (only available in black and unfinished)
http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3165

BigLeef *Tail* x1
http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3168

BigLeef *Body* x5
http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3158​

*3)* E-moli *Batteries* x5
Source (yields 7 cells)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009F5E5M/?tag=cpf0b6-20​
Extraction (technique for non light application)
http://www.swift-tuning.com/emoli.pdf
http://www.swift-tuning.com/video/V28 Tutorial.mov​
*4)* KIU D pedestal *Bulb Mount* x1
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/171607​
*5)* OSRAM 64447 IRC 65w 12v *Bulb*

Specifications
http://catalog.myosram.com/?~language=EN&~country=COM&it_p=4050300785400

Source 1
http://www.svetila.com/eProdaja/pro...42f&currency=USD&products_id=4050&language=en

Source 2
http://www.servicelighting.com/catalog_product.cfm?prod=QQ64447

Performance Graph
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h75/pike444/bulbs/64447-IRC-65W.jpg​
*Supplies*
4/40 1/8" cone point set screw (x2)

solder

Fiberfrax (glue)

closed-loop crimp-on wire lead (x1)

rubber washer (x2)

contact disc (x1)​
*Tools*
Power Drill + KD Brake Hone
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt265.html
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2351368&postcount=11

Dremel + tungsten carbide cutting bits

1/8" drill

1/8" tap

allen/hex wrench for set screws

narrow tip felt pen

wire cutter/stripper

angled plyers

slotted screw driver​
*Directions*
Post 43
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2362449&postcount=43

Post 53
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2366145&postcount=53

Post 58
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2381585&postcount=58​

*Images*
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 
21 22 23 24 ​

*Notes*
1 cell = 3.7 volts
2 cells = 7.4 volts
3 cells = 11.1 volts
4 cells = 14.8 volts
5 cells = 18.5 volts​

Please shout corrections and I'll update.


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## ElectronGuru (Feb 19, 2008)

DM51 said:


> EG, you asked me for a pic of the light with the extra body sections in place - here is one with all 5 of them.



:wow:​
Ironically, I found this thread while looking for a Leef body to upgrade SF 9Ps - because I wanted something SMALLER than a Mag 2C. Now I'm prepping to build something 10x more powerful than anything even on my radar before this month (well done guys!). 

Perhaps we can also use lighter bulbs (pun intended) with fewer batteries/sections.


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 20, 2008)

*Step One - Assess Project; Disassemble Leef Neck - Done

Step Two - Honing you skills - Done* 



 

 

 


Obviously, a lathe is the ideal tool to do things like this, but I don't have one. I may eventually get one, but don't really need it yet. 

Actually, the KD Hone will take too long by itself, so I used the two Dremel Tungsten Carbide Cutting bits shown in pix to shave a bit off outside of KIU, and inside of Leef Neck. You have to take your time and keep the cutting bits parallel to the edges as you rotate the KIU/Leef Neck around. After you get the inside of the Leef Neck shaved down, THEN the KD Hone works its magic at smoothing out all the rough groove marks.

The problem in my experience with using any sanding/grinding stones with soft aluminum is that it clogs the grit very quickly. These carbide cutting bits do *not *get clogged, and hold up extremely well with aluminum. These two surfaces I worked on do not have to be mirror/polished, since they are not visible in your light.

Eventually we get the room we need, and after trying KIU with pedestal up/inverted with bulb holder, I choose inverted. Adjustments for bulb length/position in reflector can be made with mounting pedestal legs and/or spacer.

Tools shown. This step took about 45 mins.

*Step Three:* Anchoring the KIU

*Step Four:* Wiring the KIU

*Step Five:* Adjusting bulb height

*Step Six:* Resistance/Voltage Spike Assessment & Correction.


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## DM51 (Feb 20, 2008)

Lux, many thanks for your step-by-step guide here. This is going to be a very useful tutorial for anyone else interested in building a big light, and I shall certainly be following it myself.

ElectronGuru, yes - one of the beauties of this system is that by using different numbers of body sections, you can choose almost any bulb and battery combination you like. 2 sections would give you the basis for 2x Emoli and WA1111, or 2x A123 and 5761; 3 sections could give you 3x Emoli and WA1185; etc, etc. But with that wonderful Fivemega head and reflector, it seems a shame not to go the whole hog and put something with truly spectacular punch in it.

I built two other lights using BigLeef 26530-size body sections and SF KT4 ‘Millenium’ turboheads (same head as the SF M4 and M6). Those body sections are shorter, being designed to take AW's 'C' Li-Ion cells (which have been out of stock, but more on the way soon). 

Those two lights use the WA1111 and WA1185 bulbs respectively, and they are absolutely superb. It was an extremely simple build, with absolutely zero skills required – no soldering, drilling, anything. In case you didn’t see the thread, I did a full review of them, comparing them to the SF M6 / MN21.

But this one is going to be in a different league…


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## ElectronGuru (Feb 20, 2008)

...agreed. Little point in starting if I'm not going all the way.

Building my ROP, I quickly learned how much cheaper incan bulbs are than LEDs. So en'route to Lux's masterpiece, I want to familiarize myself with the bi-pin line up and Lego the finished product when the mood strikes. Provided all the bulbs are KIU socket compatible, this works. I'll do some homework and add a voltage/bulb table.

I've been reading about legendary AW C's since signing up here, but apparently not enough. What makes them better than Emoli's in a given application?



DM51 said:


> Those two lights use the WA1111 and WA1185 bulbs respectively, and they are absolutely superb. It was an extremely simple build, with absolutely zero skills required – no soldering, drilling, anything. In case you didn’t see the thread, I did a full review of them, comparing them to the SF M6 / MN21.



Did I mention how contagious your enthusiasm and attention to detail is?

*DM51 Design + LuxLuthor Engineering = *:devil:


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 21, 2008)

ElectronGuru said:


> I've been reading about legendary AW C's since signing up here, but apparently not enough. What makes them better than Emoli's in a given application?



They are different, but "better" is relative to your application. AW's C is shorter, and smaller diameter so they fit right into a C Mag. His protection circuit PCB at the bottom of his cell adds a few mm to length, so you may need a wider tailcap for the cells to back into.

The PCB limits cell from overdischarging, and overcharging which are concerns for cell life and explosive danger, respectively since it is the Lithium Cobalt chemistry. It also has a limit of 5.2 to 5.5A output to protect the cell...but that can be a limit to many high power hotwires. It has a 3300mAh capacity, so more than the 2600mAh Emoli capacity. The protection PCB that AW uses on the Lithium Cobalt cells is not as important with the safer emoli (& A123) chemistries.


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## Illum (Feb 22, 2008)

DM51 said:


>



can you post a pic of your royal-navy-cast-iron-dive-light-modded-hotwire with that?


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## LuxLuthor (Mar 2, 2008)

OK, did Steps 3-5 today which took about 90 mins. I'll just let the (too) many pictures do the talking: 

*Step One - Assess Project; Disassemble Leef Neck - Done

Step Two - Honing you skills - Done* 

*Step Three:* Anchoring the KIU * - Done* 
 
*Step Four:* Wiring the KIU* - Done* 
 
*Step Five:* Adjusting bulb height* - Done* 
 
*To Do: *
*Step Six:* Resistance/Voltage Spike Assessment & Correction for Osram 65W IRC 64447 bulb (Svetila purchase site)



 

 





 

 





 

 





 

 





 

 





 



Whew!


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## DM51 (Mar 3, 2008)

That's an amazing job, Lux - bravo! 

I will be carefully following this _extremely_ helpful guide when I do mine, although it will test my (limited) skills way above any level they have been taken to before. At the moment, I'm waiting for my Kiu socket. 

Interesting choice of bulb - just looked it up on your test sheet. What will you be running it with?


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## LuxLuthor (Mar 3, 2008)

I have always loved the IRC bulbs....although the only economical place to buy them from is Svetila.com in Slovenia. If you get 10 or 12 bulbs, the shipping is very reasonable...but adding one more bulb at around 11 to 13 bulbs more than doubles the shipping....I add them in their invoice system until I see where their shipping trips over, than back down one.

I want this bulb to operate in a 17 to 19V range.

I'm planning on using 5 x Emoli's, because this bulb needs more than 4 cells. 4 x 3.5V to 4.15V gives a direct drive range of 14V to 16.6V which isn't quite enough. However, 5 Emoli gives a range of 17.5V to 20.75V which is a bit too high without some risk to the bulb.

OK, now I have set up a way to measure milliohm readings with my Power Supply (thanks to AWR), and I am seeing some problems with the tailcap setup that Leef has.

First, the total resistance of the entire light as measured in the bipins with switch turned on is 286 milliOhms. The tailcap spring without having a wire doing a low resistance fix is going to carry too many watts to hold up in this range of application.

When I measure the resistance on the top of the tailcap spring, and the contact ring on PCB (isolating the tailcap/switch) that is 238 millOhms. A Judco switch alone has about 11 milliOhms.

So, I need to remove the spring in the tailcap, run switch lead to top of tailcap spring, and then will likely need to add one or two 0.1 Ohm resistors to get my voltage delivered to the bulb where I want it. I'm not sure I want to use the NTC for this, as I need a total light resistance of 0.23 Ohms (230 milliohms) to get a 1.5V drop. 

Despite this 230 milliohms being close to the 238 mOhms of total light at bipins, almost all of it is in the tailspring which will not work. That spring would heat up, so it must be resistance fixed for this mod....then need to add resistance back.

(Ohms Law) R=1.5V/6.4A which is 0.23 Ohms So now my Emoli will deliver a range of 16V to 19.25V


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## Illum (Mar 4, 2008)

65535 said:


> Did you guys forget about a 35-50 watt HID???



well, dunno, do ballasts come that small?


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## ElectronGuru (Mar 10, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> despite this 230 milliohms being close to the 238 mOhms of total light at bipins, almost all of it is in the tailspring which will not work. That spring would heat up, so it must be resistance fixed for this mod....then need to add resistance back.
> 
> (Ohms Law) R=1.5V/6.4A which is 0.23 Ohms So now my Emoli will deliver a range of 16V to 19.25V



When I've carefully reviewed these posts AND built the light, I hope to understand half of what you're saying. Thank you for taking point on this and sharing so much information.

Take your time with the rest of the build and please keep the info coming!


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