# Work Order - It's easy I swear.



## 65535 (Feb 26, 2010)

I keep flopping ideas around for my little lathe. Current idea requires a larger bore than the pulley I have has.

I may need a aluminum pulley bored from 3/8 to 5/8 and a portion cut off to shorten it.

It's a 6 step for my Taig.

Removing the smallest pully groove only and facing it there.
http://www.lathesonline.com.au/estore/images/6-1162S.jpg

I can deal with any thread chasing on the setscrew.







Before and after cross sections.


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## kaichu dento (Feb 26, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*

Please add information to the title with information on what the thread is about.


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## Atlascycle (Feb 26, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*

I can do that for you. Might even have a Reamer that size. Let me know.

jfreyed at msn dot com

Jason


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## kaichu dento (Feb 26, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*

You could take a look at this thread by Carrot or just read this part:


> - *Use a descriptive thread title* - You don't need a catchphrase or a leading question, or worse a completely ambiguous title such as "Somebody help me please," "Newbie question here," or "Looking for a flashlight" -- instead, focus on the basics, and summarize in a short phrase what you are looking for. This helps you to target people who know what they are talking about. Good examples might be: "Small CR123A-based light, under $100?," "Please explain different LED types to me," "Need a serious headlamp for caving," or "Aspherics $200 and less."
> -- Also, in your post, try to make the first line as descriptive as possible. (thanks _Kestrel_)



If you do this it'll make the forums a lot more enjoyable for all of us.

It's easy, I swear!


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## chew socks (Feb 26, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*

i see atlascycle already replied, but ill reply as a backup that i can do it too if it doesnt work out with him.

Kirk


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## gadget_lover (Feb 26, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*

Hey 65535, are you asking for help, advice or just letting us know that you'll be doing what should be considered a big job on your lathe?



Looks like you will end up with a big pulley and a little one. Which are you keeping? 

Daniel


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## 65535 (Feb 26, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*

Actually the smaller part will be scraped, so I saw no point in keeping it, I actually think at a 5/8" bore the last smallest step would be mutilated.

But OH BABY. 3/4 Horse for a lathe that requires less than 1/4. It works out about $50 cheaper than a 1/4 horse and VFD, believe it or not.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250577361456&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

BTW I need it done, still have no power on my little guy.


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## gadget_lover (Feb 26, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*

What's the dimensions on that pulley? Diam will probbaly be enough.

Dan


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## 65535 (Feb 26, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*

Edit first post, it's pretty darn small, I could do the work if I had the power. Heh.


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## gadget_lover (Feb 26, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*

I'll be unavailable for a week, but if you want to wait that long, I'd do it for you. Well within the capability of the 7x12 lathe.

If someone else wants to do it, by all means go for it.

BTW, since the Taig is so small, you could acually power it with a corded power drill that is hose clamped to a piece of board. The existing pully would then fit on a mandrel clamped in the drill's jaws. That would work long enough to get the center hole bored.  It might even last long enough to face it too.

Daniel


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## 65535 (Feb 26, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*

That is true, but I still need to order an indicator and arm since I have a 4 jaw independent chuck. So I figured if someone could do a quick bore and face for me on the cheap it would be awesome, I considered getting a keyway cut, but that would lose me another groove or two, and probably require sending to Barry, and he's a busy guy.

Do to geographical location, I'll probably take you up on the offer Daniel, or see if dark_zero might be able to with his giant 12xomg huge size lathe.


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## gadget_lover (Mar 7, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*

Did you get this taken care of? I see no packages in the mail. Dark_zero doing it?

Daniel


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## darkzero (Mar 7, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*



gadget_lover said:


> Dark_zero doing it?


 
Nope, not me. I would have been more than happy to help out with this but I'm not the type to step on anyone's toes.


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## 65535 (Mar 8, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*

Sorry Daniel, waiting on a paycheck on the 10th then I'll get to the post office with a couple of things. I figured with your holiday and all the wait would be ok, if it's a problem we'll figure it out. Thanks for keeping up with it though.


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## gadget_lover (Mar 8, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*

Oh, it's no problem at all. I just wanted to make sure nothing had gone awry. 

Daniel


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## 65535 (Mar 8, 2010)

*Re: It's easy I swear.*

Other than being broke until the 10th things are going ok.  I should get it off Wednesday or Thursday. I'll write a note but it needs to be a thou. or two over .626"


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## precisionworks (Mar 9, 2010)

> I considered getting a keyway cut, but that would lose me another groove or two,


Happy to do that if you want. In aluminum, as long as the bore is standard (inch) and the keyway is also standard, it's a ten minute job.

My Siberian Husky can almost do it by herself, but has trouble with those little shims


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## 65535 (Mar 9, 2010)

Having a keyway would be just awesome except the keyway would slice through another pulley or two. Which isn't quite acceptable in this situation but would be cool. Thanks for the offer.


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## precisionworks (Mar 9, 2010)

Another option is to use a transfer punch to mark the set screw locations on the shaft & drill shallow depressions that allow the set screw to seat. Anything around .100" deep seems to work well up to 3hp.


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## 65535 (Mar 10, 2010)

I figure since the motor has a keyway, that in the off chance the pulley tries to spin (normal power for this lathe is less than .25HP) the set screw will slide into the side of the keyway and bind there.

I like keyways, but I lack the room, unless there was a good way to cut a "blind" keyway.


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## gadget_lover (Mar 13, 2010)

I got a present in the mail today! A cute little pulley with one too many vbelt grooves was in a well packed box.

Time to get out to the garage to get it shortened and then bored.

Too bad I can't use my pretty 5/8 inch diameter solid carbide boring bar on it.  Fortunately I bought some smaller ones too.

Daniel


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## 65535 (Mar 13, 2010)

Hope you like the box it's a reused SF return box. Hehe.


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## gadget_lover (Mar 14, 2010)

Things are never as easy as they seem.  

For instance, did you know that the empty screw hole for a set screw causes a horrendous whistle as the pulley spins at 2,000 rpm? A simple piece of masking tape over the hole ended the noise, but I did not figure it out till the third pass.

As Mister Monk would say... Here's what happened:

The pulley was smaller than I expected. It is also aluminum, not steel. I took a shot next to a known measuring device, known to some as a mini-mag.







The first order of the day was to decide what to use for a reference point. My first instinct was to use the flat shoulder where the set screw was located, but that might have been turned at any point in the manufacturing process and might not be concentric. Instead I used the .0005 DTI on the bore for a reference. 

Once centered I ran it in and out to make sure the axis was aligned. The measurement did not change, so it was axially aligned.

Out





In





Then came the puzzling part; to double-check I indicated on a V groove of the pulley and found that it was slightly out of round.  Only a thou and a half, but I was glad that I'd not used that groove as a reference.

Boring it would cut through the V of the smallest step anyway, so I sharpened up my parting blade and went at it. It parted very nicely. The video I made came out fuzzy. 






The drill that I used to get it close to final size dwarfed the part, but it did the trick. The pulley material was very soft and made long strings as I drilled. I should have pecked so the strings would break. If they'd caught on the jaws of the chuck I'd have chips everywhere. They also had sharp edges.







I adjusted my small ( 3/8 ) inch carbide bar for minimal overhang and went to town, boring only .010 to .015 per pass. I used an expanding bore measuring device after each pass. I was extra cautious since last week I cheerfully cut an extra .015 off a bore because (based on eyeball measurements) I thought I had lots more to go. I was not going to make that mistake again.

Setting the boring bar.





Making a measurement.











The final pass was only .0008 per my dro. I had nothing but aluminum dust in the lubricant on the cutting edge. That seemed to be about as expected. 







The end result came out nicely. My target was .626 -0 +.003, and it measured out at .629 and looks smooth as a baby's skin.






The pictures were done with the wrong camera, and manipulated on a new laptop without any graphics programs. Hope they we not too boring.

Daniel


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## 65535 (Mar 14, 2010)

Very cool, and amazing turn around to machining. I was working on my idea for an adjustable motor mount using low profile nu-strut (uni-strut). Using CR plate was a horrible mistake, I'll be buying some aluminum and using that, as well as aluminum for my large strut t-nuts.

Can't wait to get that pulley mounted up.


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## HarryN (Mar 17, 2010)

Hey Daniel - next time invite me over to watch. :twothumbs


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## gadget_lover (Mar 18, 2010)

HarryN said:


> Hey Daniel - next time invite me over to watch. :twothumbs



I'll keep that in mind the next time that I have a planned project. This one was "got home, ate dinner, played in garage between dishes and chores". It's nice to be able to slip into the garage for a few minutes or hours.


Daniel


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