# EDC Knife for my dad



## kuksul08 (Aug 7, 2010)

Hey guys, I'm looking for a knife for my dad. Been doing a lot of research but I thought I'd ask here for some opinions.

So far I have been looking at knives such as the Benchmade Griptillian, as well as the whole Spyderco line. We went and looked at the Griptillians in person. The MINI version is definitely the target size, so under 3" blade and under 4" closed would be nice. 

One thing we didn't like is how flimsy it feels when you bend it side to side. My dad uses the hell out of his knife (for the intended purpose as well as additional tasks eg. a prybar), so it needs to be tough. I currently own a Spyderco Mini Manix, probably the most quality folding knife I've seen to date and he likes the quality, not the size. I worry that the blade steel is so hard and brittle it would snap off if I used it to pry something.

That led me to the Spyderco Delica with G10 scales. People love it, but some other options would be nice, especially from different companies. It's just an option right now, but not 100%.

Basically:
-Under 3" blade, under 4" closed
-Quality is a must
-Under $100
-Lockback preferred, but open to anything other than liner lock. ew 
-Tanto blade geometry if possible

Thanks for any input you may offer. One thing to note is his favorite knife was a cheap Gerber we got for free from Cabelas about 10 years ago, until he lost it. 

:wave:


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## The Sun (Aug 7, 2010)

I'd recommend looking at the Benchmade 14210 here:

http://www.benchmade.com/products/14210

(this is basically a higher class Griptillian with better materials, and a better blade profile!)

one of the best production knives made. i personally like the full size version better (the 14205), but this is an excellent knife for the money. Another tank of a knife that is on the small side and is a great value for the money is the ZT 0350. Spyderco Paramilitary's are great knives, as well as the new Spyderco PPT (a great working knife).

i would check out the 14210 first and if it doesn't hit the mark shoot me a PM, knives are pretty much my life :laughing:

***the 0350 and PPT are technically liner locks, but they are as thick as some frame-locks out there and i would consider them just as strong, they are designed very well***


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## entoptics (Aug 7, 2010)

I use my 6 year old Kershaw Scallion many times every day.

Can't recommend it vs current blades (cause I've had no reason to research), but it is insanely good in my experience.

Whatever you choose, I would highly recommend assisted opening. It's safer, faster, and better than any "flip" models. Especially when you've got motor, olive, or 3 in 1 oil on your paws.


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## JimH (Aug 7, 2010)

The Sun said:


> I'd recommend looking at the Benchmade 14210 here:
> 
> http://www.benchmade.com/products/14210
> 
> (this is basically a higher class Griptillian with better materials, and a better blade profile!)



I have no experience with this particular model, but I'm a huge fan of the Benchmade Axis lock. It is rock solid and allows easy one hand open and close with just the flick of the wrist while holding the lock back with the finger tip. I own a number of Benchmade axis lock knives, and they are all outstanding knives and a great value for the money.


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## Gusto (Aug 7, 2010)

Hello.

Prying with any blade is not a good idea. I recommend the Spyderco Delica 4 FFG (the G-10 version is also great, like you mentioned) and get your dad a compact tool actually designed for prying... http://countycomm.com/WIDGYMICRO.htm

Just wrap some paracord around the handle and put it on a keyring or whatever. It'll save your blade.


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## Kingfisher (Aug 7, 2010)

The Benchmade Mini Grip is a good choice. Unlike it's big brother the full size Grip, it has full length liners inside the handles, so don' worry if the 'Valox' (I think that's what they call it) feels odd. They do a few versions of it too - including Tanto.

The Benchmade Mini Presido is a little tank, and may be woth a look. 
Remember knives are for cutting and not for prying - so a Multi-Tool could be a better choice.


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## kyamei (Aug 7, 2010)

I'd say give the Benchmade mini Bone Collector a look. Blade is pretty thick, tip included. G10 scales, D2 blade, and can be found for under $100.

http://www.benchmade.com/products/15030


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## jacktheclipper (Aug 7, 2010)

If your dad likes Gerber knives check out the Valletton .
I carry one everywhere .


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## kuksul08 (Aug 7, 2010)

Definitely appreciate the responses! I will look into every one of these knives mentioned.

A few notes - I said he likes to use it as a prybar. Well, not like that happens often, but if he does, it would be better for the blade to bend instead of snapping. I'm not sure what these modern blade steels tend to do. 

Also, I'm not sure what it's called, but he really likes the extra finger cutout at the base of the blade. Some knives have it and some don't - I think it's great because you can choke up a lot more.


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## carrot (Aug 7, 2010)

kuksul08 said:


> Definitely appreciate the responses! I will look into every one of these knives mentioned.
> 
> A few notes - I said he likes to use it as a prybar. Well, not like that happens often, but if he does, it would be better for the blade to bend instead of snapping. I'm not sure what these modern blade steels tend to do.
> 
> Also, I'm not sure what it's called, but he really likes the extra finger cutout at the base of the blade. Some knives have it and some don't - I think it's great because you can choke up a lot more.


It's called a choil.

It's possible to choke up on the Delica4 despite it lacking a choil.


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## jacknife (Aug 7, 2010)

Spyderco Delica in ZDP steel.. Great steel keeps an edge.. The Delica is a small enough blade to come out in public like to cut a hole in your coffee cup lid to vent it and no one will get freaked out , the blade steel is relentless with keeping an edge,, I shave down wine bottle corks with The ZDP and dont have to sharpen the blade,,, and it will still shave hair ...


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## jacknife (Aug 7, 2010)

No folder for a prybar , And thats just how it is, get a small fixed blade then,, if you are interested in that prybar stuff, I will help you also.


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## The Sun (Aug 7, 2010)

what will your dad be using to sharpen the knife with? A sharpening system (ie. Spyderco Sharpmaker, etc.), or free-hand on wet-stones etc.?

that makes a big difference. 

if he's not using a sharpening system i wouldn't recommend a steel like ZDP to anyone that's not a "knife person." i would even go as far to say that some manufacturers S30V is a little much for non-knife people (and by this i mean people that aren't enthusiasts).

i would stick close to Spyderco's VG-10, or any of Benchmade's 154CM. they've been working with these steels for a pretty good while now and they have their heat-treating processes down on both. they are outstanding choices from each company. 

also, where he lives is a pretty big factor. i live in San Antonio, TX and the climate here eats steel for breakfast. the only steel that i don't have a problem with corrosion on the blade here is Duratech 20CV (of Rick Hinderer fame). Even Strider's S30V will start to pit lightly if i carry the knife for more than three or for days without applying some tuf-glide to the blade (either stone-washed, or bead-blasted).

if he lives in a humid environment i would stay away from the tool steels, high carbon's, and the Sandvik offerings (unless you plan to force patina the tool steel, which takes maintenance).

if your father really isn't a knife enthusiast i would think that you  would want to get him a low maintenance, great user, daily carry knife and there are quite a lot of great knives right around the price range you are looking for.

a lot have been mentioned here, but like i said i would stay away from the higher grade enthusiast type steels and go for a more maintenance friendly high quality "user" steel that won't rust as easily with neglect, and won't take your dad three days to sharpen. 

i'm producing my knives with the Dura. 20CV and it's a shame not more manufacturers use it, it's just about the perfect steel IMHO. 

also, stay away from the powdered steels if you don't want the blade to snap with light prying. like said above, you should never pry with a knife, but the reality is that it happens very often, again very often with non-enthusiasts.

try to stick to the smelted steels (ie. 154CM, VG-10, 440 from a good manufacturer). D2, M4 (a lot more costly), and 3V are great tool steels that can stand up to light, to heavy prying (depending on tip strength), but what you gain in toughness, you lose in corrosion resistance. you can force patina D2 very easily but you have to maintain the patina (re-apply once a month of so depending on how heavily the knife is used). this isn't hard, you just soak the blade in vinegar until you see the patina form then your done. you just have to figure out if that something your Dad will want to do. it's a little more difficult to patina the 3V i can be done, but the easiest way to maintain it is to oil it, or apply tuf-glide on it once a week. M4 is terrible with corrosion and usually comes coated, but it probably won't even come into play here because of it's high cost. i don't think there's a M4 knife out there for around $100...but i could be mistaken.

i'm not a fan of lock-back knives so i'll try to be a biased as possible. i've always liked Spyderco's Delica and Endura models, but nor the Endura because of the thicker blade stock. they are great knives, with great steel, and great value...but, as i said i'm not a lock-back knife kinda guy.

however, i do like Spyderco's compression lock that would be familiar to someone that's been using a lock-back knife. the difference is in lock strength. the compression lock is tremendously stronger than that of a lock-back design. the only way for the knife to fail with a compression lock if for the blade to break. the lock will not fail with any pressure a grown man could put on it. The caged ball lock from Spyderco is another super strong design.

again, as mentioned above, the AXIS lock is very strong, smooth, and predictable. i'm not a huge fan of Benchmade knives (personally), but i have always been a fan of the 14204/14255/14210 series knives because i'm a fan of Mike Snody and his designs. adding an AXIS lock to his design was a genius idea and made a tank of a folder. The Benchmade Persidio series is also a great tank of a knife, but you get thick blade stock in the 14205 series. and, the Persidio's are notorious for chewing up pockets and spitting them out, they also show wear very easily on the aluminum scales, as opposed to the 14205 series G10 scales that can be cleaned up with wahl clipper oil (what i use after machining G10), 3-in-1 oil, or WD-40, or really any other common household petrolium based lubricant.....even cooling oil works well. Likewise, the new BM Bone collector series are great knives (VERY similar to the 14205, and Persidio), but you get D2 tool steel for the blade material...which is excellent, but you have the corrosion resistance issues, and maintenance to think about. i carried my large Bone Collector folder here in SA for about a week and just from the humidity, and it being next to my body in my pocket made the whole surface of the blade pit before i added the patina.

Also, another few knives to look at would be the new folder offerings from Boker Plus' CLB line (Chad Los Banos). they are great little (small) knives that are tough (many with frame-locks), quality 440 steel, G10, and easily maintained. but, again because they are small you will get thinner blade stock, so he'd have to lay off the prying. Also, the small Boker/Vox colaboration fixed blades are AWESOME knives! if you want to get something for him to pry with and cut things, check out the Bocker/Vox Prymate


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## Gusto (Aug 7, 2010)

Excellent post, The Sun; top advice. VG-10 is very easy to maintain the edge just by stropping a little bit on a leather strop with some fine compound. Doing that takes very little steel off; of course, eventually you have to resharpen on waterstones every so often.

Do you not bother with tuf-cloth? How exactly do you apply the tuf-glide to the blade and how much to use?


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## The Sun (Aug 7, 2010)

updated with a little more info. above.

thanks 

i don't bother with tuf-cloth. it's just a cloth with tuf-glide on it. i use tuf-_glide_ for A LOT of lubrication and preventative maintenance. 

i buy the large bottles of tuf-glide becuase with the amount of modifying, etc. i do for people i go through it quickly.

to apply it i squirt it on a micro-fiber cloth (you can get a pack of 40 at Sam's club for $10, and they're washable...i've got 100's of them  ), and wipe the blade down.


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## Gary123 (Aug 7, 2010)

I don't know how much you want to spend and how hefty a knife your dad would want to carry around, but you could try to find an Extrema Ratio small folder. They are hard to find, not imported any more. One of the most robust folders made, blade around 1/4 inch thick. Made in Italy and a favorite of the Italian military.


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## Vortus (Aug 7, 2010)

Heh, if you do choose the Extrema route, buy from a reputable dealer. Or you may end up with a fake like I did.


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## The Sun (Aug 7, 2010)

well guys the OP isn't gonna find an Extrema with a blade under 3", or in the $100 price range . but, _I _agree with you in that they are definitely heavy duty! they are a bit awkward though. but, you can't beat them for chopping timber, or opening doors the hard way, hahaha! 



BTW, to the OP the Spyderco Paramilitary is a great knife with a small blade, but a full-size handle. it has the same blade thickness as your Mini-Manix you were talking about (if you were talking about the original 83mm Mini-Manix), also the same blade steel. BUT, since it uses S30V (again like your MManix), if used hard enough will snap (prying at the tip). BUT, BUT!!! i've owned quite a few Para's (they're one of my favorite designs) and i'm pretty tough on knives in the shop and i've never snapped the tip on one. I've used my "shop" Para to pry industrial staples out of commercial tri-wall cardboard boxes, cut the boxes (they're like .250" thick), take frayed edges off small parts of G10 after cutting, etc., etc. and it's HELD UP!

great thing about them too is that you can find them BNIB on many forum B/S/T areas (including CPF) for $100 or less (they generally average about $90). the MSRP for them is $199, and the retail is roughly $150 depending on the configuration. so, they are to be had for under $100, same with the 14205/14210, you can generally find them in B/S/T's for $80


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## jacknife (Aug 7, 2010)

Good Post SUN... But I have Yet to dull out a Spyderco ZDP with heavy work. And A spyderco Tri- Sharpener and a little maintance and he wont have to become a professional knife sharpener, thats why for a a daily carry its so nice . Most people abuse the edges of blades and dont tune them up daily , the tri sharpener is perfect for that. They dont have to learn how to use the " stone " and ruin their edge, forget the secondary edge., Keep your edge sharp dont let it become dull, a little touch up is fine . I agree A folder is not what sounds right here, If prying is already in the thought pattern.


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## The Sun (Aug 7, 2010)

that is very true with ZDP, but i've dulled mine quite a bit (but, like i said i tend to use my knives heavily). it will touch up well with regular maintenence like you said....but if you ever get it dull....stand by, to stand by. i have the luxury of using a belt grinder to resharpen my knives with belts down to very fine grits, but most people wouldn't appreciate re-sharpening a knife for an hour that they just want to use everyday.

i gave my dad a lightweight Delica a couple of years ago for fathers day, he's not a knife guy...like to use them, but doesn't like to maintain them. he was impressed with how easily he could maintain the VG-10. if i gave him a ZDP knife he'd throw it in the trash (because he doesn't appreciate what ZDP is of course), the first time he would go to re-sharpen it. 

i don't know anything about the OP's father other than what the OP said he was looking for in a knife, and that's what i've based my opinion on. i agree with you that ZDP is an AWESOME steel, but not really for someone that doesn't keep up with an edge. i don't know if thats the case here, but i would think low maintenance would be an advantage in this case. if there would ever be a "prying" situation with ZDP and the edge was even slightly damaged it would take forever to fix it with anything other than a grinder with a few different grit belts.

i would never turn anyone away from ZDP-189, but everyone has their own perfect user, and depending on the experience that a person has with a knife has a lot to do with that.


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## jacknife (Aug 8, 2010)

Well Said SUN, And now whomever reads these posts know that they should maintain an edge, And not use a knife for a prybar, just get an old chisel if thats what you want, and carry both, A knife is made for cutting, keep your edge tuned up and it will cut what your cutting-- and not you. a dull knife is a knife-- you force to cut-- and then the person gets cut. No folders for prying.


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## The Sun (Aug 8, 2010)

That's absolutely right!

Those little Stanley mini prybars they sell at Target, and Lowes are perfect for that kind of thing, or an Atwood Bug Out Bar!

The most dangerous knife is a dull one! One, because, like you said you have to force it. And, two because if it cuts you it tears the flesh instead of cutting clean. A clean cut will heal three time faster than a torn cut, Also, the cleaner the cut, the less you bleed. Some shark attack victims barely bleed at all because the razor sharp teeth actually cauterize the wound. 

Hahaha, fun fact for the day!


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## kuksul08 (Aug 8, 2010)

The Sun said:


> what will your dad be using to sharpen the knife with? A sharpening system (ie. Spyderco Sharpmaker, etc.), or free-hand on wet-stones etc.?
> 
> that makes a big difference.
> 
> ...



:twothumbs Great info! I will try to address all the questions you posed. For sharpening the blade, he has an old Lansky system with 3 different stones that you use with oil, and I have a Sharpmaker. So, he will use either one, but mostly the Sharpmaker.

As far as the level of enthusiast he is, he is not the type to go collecting them, and he'd probably damage the knife if it means getting the job done. (I, on the other hand, wouldn't want to wreck my precious haha). That being said, he will definitely maintain it - clean, lubricate, and sharpen it fairly often. 

We don't live in a humid or salty environment, so corrosion isn't that much of an issue. I have left my S30V blade untouched for a month (before I was aware of keeping them lubricated) and only then it developed a few pinpoint sized rust spots, which rubbed off fairly easily.

Great info on the steel types as well, I will definitely stick to those mentioned.

Why are you biased against the lock-back design? I was under the impression that it was one of the strongest out there. I just watched a Youtube video describing the compression lock. It looks pretty cool. Do the liners ever wear out where they get compressed between the tang and the pin?

I will check out all those knives you mentioned. I showed him the paramilitary and he likes that style, but I have a feeling it's a bit big.

Thanks again everyone.


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## jacknife (Aug 8, 2010)

When someone mentions prying with a knife ,to a knife person ,we automatically say NO.. And in the same thought pattern- we see- that if this person is even considering prying then he is the type of person who MAY overuse a lockback to the point of failure and get cut, lose some fingers or the use of fingers. Folders are strong in a lot of cases... BUT never ---as strong as a fixed blade period..People have been severly injured when the lock in their folder gave way. Its that simple!! we know ,,and we care for your or their health.


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## Soulrack (Aug 8, 2010)

You can't go wrong with a Delica but for $106 you can get the new Paramilitary 2. It's got the greatest ergonomics of any knife I've ever held. Plus s30v is much better than vg10 and easier to sharpen than zdp-189.


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## Gusto (Aug 8, 2010)

Soulrack said:


> You can't go wrong with a Delica.



true.



Soulrack said:


> s30v is much better than vg10.



false.


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## The Sun (Aug 8, 2010)

There really is no steel that's better than the other, only better suited for the situation it will be used for. VG-10 has great characteristics, as well as S30V, but it all comes down to what the knife would be used for most often.

Like mentioned above, VG-10, 154CM, and even good ol' 440C are wonderful everyday user steels that are easily maintained. Also, steel can only take a blade so far, the heat teat does the rest. You could have super premium steel, but a terrible heat treat and not get anywhere. Properly treated VG-10, or 154CM will hang with the best of them, and in hard use I'd choose either over S30V any day. But, that's just my opinion.


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## Gusto (Aug 8, 2010)

The Sun said:


> in hard use I'd choose either over S30V any day. But, that's just my opinion.



Very interesting. Care to elaborate?


Here's what I've gathered:

VG-10 has a very fine grain structure, so it takes a finer edge than s30v. It tends to roll the edge instead of chip, so stropping will bring back the edge easily. It also sharpens very easily.

S30V will hold a decent edge for a very very long time. It's harder and a little bit more corrosion resistant than VG-10. It might chip a bit at first, but after a few times sharpening, it will chip much less. It takes longer to sharpen than VG-10.


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## kuksul08 (Aug 8, 2010)

Soulrack said:


> You can't go wrong with a Delica but for $106 you can get the new Paramilitary 2. It's got the greatest ergonomics of any knife I've ever held. Plus s30v is much better than vg10 and easier to sharpen than zdp-189.




I am really digging the Paramilitary design and features, but too bad it's so big.

I talked to him a bit more and showed him my knife (Manix 83mm). He says the weight is at the max limit, length is okay, and width is at the maximum limit for what he would want. Alas, the requirements have slackened up a bit:

Max Closed length of 4.625"
Blade length ~3"
Max weight of 5.5oz

He even said "do they make _these_ anymore?"  So I supposed I want something similar to the Manix now...

Can anyone comment on the locking mechanism of the Spyderco Manix 2? I understand it's pretty similar to the Axis lock...

Also - what's your guys' preference on tip up/down carry in your pocket? I always carry tip down, it seems safer to me.

edit: Anyone know if the Manix2 liners are milled/drilled out for weight? 

And here's an interesting picture I took just to add some color to the thread


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## Gusto (Aug 8, 2010)

kuksul08 said:


> I am really digging the Paramilitary design and features, but too bad it's so big.
> 
> I talked to him a bit more and showed him my knife (Manix 83mm). He says the weight is at the max limit, length is okay, and width is at the maximum limit for what he would want. Alas, the requirements have slackened up a bit:
> 
> ...




sure... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xdJUhgwrWQ

Personally, I wouldn't go with the Manix 2 just because of that video.  It's a shame because it's a great design, I just think that spring holding the lock bar in place is just too weak.

I know you said you don't like liner locks, but the Spyderco Sage 1 is definitely worth a look. It's very similar to the Manix 2 in design, but a much better lock and a 3" blade. The CF scales are 'peel-ply' so they have good texturing and grip.

I prefer tip up carry, but it doesn't matter really. It's very safe because the blade is pressed against the seam of your pocket when carried that way.


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## Illum (Aug 8, 2010)

My dad's not a knife person, hes totally against carrying such a device...until he tried out my Spyderco Cricket, since then that became his EDC...its noninvasive and oddly enough to be something of a cute knife despite it being a very prifessional tool:thinking:

Perhaps you could consult your dad regarding styles?


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## kuksul08 (Aug 8, 2010)

Illum said:


> My dad's not a knife person, hes totally against carrying such a device...until he tried out my Spyderco Cricket, since then that became his EDC...its noninvasive and oddly enough to be something of a cute knife despite it being a very prifessional tool:thinking:
> 
> Perhaps you could consult your dad regarding styles?


 

Haha that's funny. I have heard a lot of people like those crickets - they're kind of funny looking IMO.

I did just consult him and it seems his view is changing a bit. He liked the Manix 2 when I showed it. I'm still looking into all the pro's and cons of the knife though.


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## kuksul08 (Aug 8, 2010)

Gusto said:


> sure... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xdJUhgwrWQ
> 
> Personally, I wouldn't go with the Manix 2 just because of that video.  It's a shame because it's a great design, I just think that spring holding the lock bar in place is just too weak.
> 
> ...



Wow, not sure what to think of that video. That guy really thrashed that knife way harder than most people would use it. He definitely pried on it a lot. Not sure what it says about the lock mechanism either.


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## The Sun (Aug 8, 2010)

Gusto said:


> Very interesting. Care to elaborate?
> 
> 
> Here's what I've gathered:
> ...



Sure, no problem!

In a hard use knife, like a feild knife for example, a knife that I know I will be using hard and will need to maintain I would choose a steel that is easily sharpened, resists chipping, has decent corrosion resistance, and bends rather than breaks. 

This is one reason you see more field knives made out of steels that are easy to "field" sharpen. These are also good characteristics in a "shop" knife. Not to mention they are usually fairly inexpensive steels so if you completely destroy it it's easy to replace. 

To the non-knife enthusiast I would be surprised if they could tell the difference in edge retention between properly heat treated 154CM, and S30V. Same between VG-10 and 154. It all comes down to what steel serves the use better.

I carry Dura 20CV because it has high corrosion resistance, holds an edge longer than S30V, is easier to sharpen by far, and has never chipped on me. I use that steel hard because innate confidence in it. I also use thick stock S30V because you really have to give it hell before it will break, but the corrosion resist. is down from the 20CV. 

So, in my situation the 20CV is perfect for me. But, that's not the case for everyone.....that's why there's all the questions!


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## carrot (Aug 8, 2010)

kuksul08 said:


> Wow, not sure what to think of that video. That guy really thrashed that knife way harder than most people would use it. He definitely pried on it a lot. Not sure what it says about the lock mechanism either.


Don't think anything of the video. The pivot screw on the knife was loose when he destroyed the lock; it allowed the BB to jump out of the way of the blade tang and let the knife close. Keep a tight pivot and you can have good faith in the M2.


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## The Sun (Aug 8, 2010)

kuksul08 said:


> I am really digging the Paramilitary design and features, but too bad it's so big.
> 
> I talked to him a bit more and showed him my knife (Manix 83mm). He says the weight is at the max limit, length is okay, and width is at the maximum limit for what he would want. Alas, the requirements have slackened up a bit:
> 
> ...



The Military is big, the Para is the same size if not a bit smaller than your Manix 2 

I'll post a pic in a bit.


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## kuksul08 (Aug 8, 2010)

Here's a running list of potentials so far:

Benchmade 14210 ~$100, 154CM
Spyderco Manix 2 ~$75, 154CM
Spyderco Para-Military 2 ~$115, S30V
Spyderco Native ~$65, S30V
Spyderco Caly3 ~$115, ZDP-189 (another option?)

P.S. I may be slightly biased towards Spyderco


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## carrot (Aug 8, 2010)

M2 liners aren't drilled out, but as if by magic the M2 is 5.0oz.

As for the CBBL, it is a bit harder to unlock than on the AXIS (You need two fingers, not one) but still very easy to use.


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## The Sun (Aug 9, 2010)

Also, I'm talking about the Para 1 for specs, the updated Para 2 is a good bit longer than the older Para 1. Roughly 0.5" longer if I'm not mistaken.


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## kuksul08 (Aug 9, 2010)

We went today to a knife store and checked out a lot of knives! They carried a lot of the Spyderco and Benchmade lines, as well as many other companies.

My dad likes the Spyderco Native, except the handle being plastic and the riveted design.

He likes the Manix 2, but it's still a hefty knife for EDC.

The Benchmade Mini-Griptillian is still an option all along, but cheap feeling and the price doesn't really align with the material quality.

He also liked the Benchmade 930, :naughty: pricey!


I have a feeling the Manix 2 is a winner here, so far at least. I may just order one up.


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## Gusto (Aug 9, 2010)

If you're going for the larger blade, the Stretch 2 is great; the one in VG-10. It's much lighter than the Manix 2 and it has a full-flat grind.


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## xr4fun (Aug 9, 2010)

I've been carrying a Mini Grip daily for over 4 years now. I live on a farm and abuse it regularly. It may feel kind of light, but it's not weak. It is really a great knife and I can't say enough good things about it. I had to go buy one for my wife so I could have mine back. I don't think I'll buy another folder that doesn't have an axis lock. It has never failed to lock and is so smooth and easy to use.


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## Yang1815 (Aug 10, 2010)

Get the Mini-Grip and a prying device for your dad.


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## Gusto (Aug 16, 2010)

Let us know what you end up getting. :wave:


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## kuksul08 (Aug 19, 2010)

Gusto said:


> Let us know what you end up getting. :wave:



Will do - my dad is still undecided. I think it's coming down to Manix 2 and Mini-Grip


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## kuksul08 (Sep 12, 2010)

He wants the Spyderco Manix 2 Black Blade. As far as I can tell it's not even out yet. Anyone know?


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## The Sun (Sep 12, 2010)

no, there's no black bladed model for the Manix II yet.


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## kuksul08 (Sep 12, 2010)

The Sun said:


> no, there's no black bladed model for the Manix II yet.



Hmm. Their supplementary catalog says it is due for release Summer 2010, which is nearing an end. I will have to call them to see.

update: October/November release


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## fxhunter (Sep 15, 2010)

I vote for the all black Kershaw LEEK. It is sturdy, sharpens up easily and holds a good edge. I really like the all black, it looks cool.


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