# Surefire Lego?



## flash_bang

Well, I decided to make a thread for people with surefire Legos! I personally don't have any examples :shakehead but I hope to get some ideas and such!
HAGO,
Flash

:EDIT: I now have an example! yay! stock G2 + Z59 clicky. I will post pictures later, as time allows


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## Empath

Thread closed. Please consider content a bit more in your posts. I don't want to claim authority on whether every post contains any redeeming value, but some recent ones you've given us has me scratching my head and wondering. Fluff posts are heavily discouraged, and efforts to avoid posting of fluff is heavily encouraged. Should an unexpected moderation event occur, consider whether you've given these words merit.


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## Empath

After a bit of checking around, I find that there was more merit than I realized. Perhaps I need to keep track better of the lingo being used regarding Surefires; but then I'm a Rayovac man. 

It means also that I owe you an apology, 'flash_bang'.

Please do consider my words though in light of some of you recent posts, but on this particular one, I blew it. You have my sincere apology.


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## LukeA

I knew you guys could unclose threads!


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## flash_bang

Thank you Empath, after you closed the thread I was left scratching my head as well!
I was merely trying to put together a resource or gallery for people to show how they've customized their surefires with swapping parts and whatnot to serve the particular purpose that they need to fulfill.
Have a good one,
Flash
PS: Empath, Please PM as to what was in question as to the merit of this particular thread, thank you


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## jbosman1013

I guess i will go first, surefire C2 with DX sscP4 LED and ultrafire unprotected rcr123's


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## flash_bang

Thanks jbosman! that sounds coool!
Also, output, pictures, and other neat info about the modified light would be welcome.
btw, why do you use unprotected 123's? I'm curious as to why some preach only protected rechargeables, and some like the protected ones more. sorry to get the thread off topic!
TIA/HAGO,
Flash


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## jbosman1013

sorry should have added more info, the output is a good 100+ torch lumens regulated with about 2hours of runtime. I use unprotected batteries because thats all i have for now but i really don't see the point because when it drops out of regulation i just change the batteries. I had to file down the bezel to get rid of the gap in the head and i also changed the positive spring for a longer one so it would stop flickering. I really like this upgrade and it is my current EDC


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## flash_bang

sounds very nice, jbosman!
Have a good time EDC'ing that fine piece of gear!
HAGO,
Flash


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## DaFABRICATA

1.) L5 body with KT1 turbohead and SW02 tailcap running a SSC P4 tower module.
2.) KT4 modded with 3 SSC's & 3 Mcr27s reflectors with a shark on an M3T body with Detonator cell extender and SW01 tailcap.
3.) L4 head modded with 3 SSC's and a shark on an E1L body and Mce2s 2-stage tailcap.


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## LED Zeppelin

Unprotected cells have an advantage in high current applications since the protection circuit won't shut down the cell due to the draw. Other than that I'd recommend the protected cells.

As far as SF legos go, these are my building blocks (I'll forgo the E series):

Heads: 6P, C2, C3, M3, KT, M6, KL2s (modded w/ McR38, SSC, & multifunction converters), old KL3 (being modded w/ McR20S, SSC, multifunction), 3" SRTH, and a one-off McGizmo M4X4X2 (selectable 4 X Lux III McR20 or 4 X Lux III lambertian flood in an M4 head).

Tubes: 6P, C2, C3, M3, M4, and M6, cell extenders, and Detonators

Adapters: M to C, and C to E. Some TnC KT to E adapters on order.

Tails: Stock twisties and clickies, McC2S 2-stage, SW01, SW02, and RPM

Modules: Some Arcmania towers (Digital SSC, Lux V, and TTM (1 X AA Lux I)), Lighthound and DX Cree drop-ins modded for correct bezel seating.

Cells: CR123, RCR123, 17500, 17670, and an M6-R clone built by wquiles.

With the above parts I can pretty much cover all my needs and then some. Most are throw oriented except for the stock KL2, but all mine have been modded. I rarely use the incan heads except for the M6.

I didn't plan having a SF lego set like I did with the Alephs, but having aquired a light here and there, some conversion heads, and associated accessories, I can mix and match and build a variety of complete lights in different configurations.


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## jumpstat

Here is some lego's...

#1. Milky X464 KL2 Host/ Leef 1x18650/ SW02 TC





#2. Milky X464 KL2 Host/ Leef 2x18650/ SW01 TC





#3. Milky X464 KL2/ M3 body/ SW02





#4. KL5/ M2 body/ SW02.
#5. KL4/E2e BK/ E2D TC.


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## Owen




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## sysadmn

This is a great starting point:
MDs Lithium-Ion>Incandecent guide, +compatability/comparison chart

It includes Surefire, Surefire-compatibles, and other interesting CR123a based incandescent lights. It's the most comprehensive guide to mix-n-match I've seen.


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## kelmo

I don't have any pictures to post but I have the following;

9P+KT2 Turbohead+A19+MN60 LA+FM24 Diffuser. I also have a KL3 and MN15/16 LA plus a few SC2s. I have a stock 9P and a 6P with a BOG Cree Premium drop-in. I obviously like the P Series.

kelmo


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## Per Arne

Hi,

I just got an G&P Laser Product T12 Tactical Light (made in Hong Kong) w/ 12V Xenon Lamp useing 4x CR123A Lithium batteries. I removed the original bezel, tailcap and lamp and put on SureFire's 6PD Crenellated Strike Bezel and the Z41-BK tailcap. I use Lumens Factory's 12V Xenon Lamp 320 Lumen ~ 60 min. (208 surefire lumen...) instead of the 12V Xenon Lamp from G&P 220 Lumen (?) ~ 50 min.

Someone here on CPF mentioned that SureFire parts would not fit on the UltraFire 12P - 12V Xenon Lamp, 4x CR123A...

- SureFire L4 with McTC-HA 2-stage Tailcap switch...

NEW: Aleph-BK 1x 123A Body with SF ExE-BK Serie Bezel Head and McTC-BK tailcap switch.

PA


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## MikeM

Hello all.......new to the group and I'd like to add to the thread.Here are a few Frankensteined Surefires.






Here's an E2D body with McClicky tailcap and KL1 head,a Leef body and Grip with a Surefire clicky tailcap and KL3 head,and a Pineapple body with the head and tail from the E2D.






Here's an L6 with an SW02 tailcap,a Z2 with G&P strobe tailcap,strike bezel,and CREE drop in.And a 3 cell Leef body and Grip with a Surefire clicky and KL3 head.......the Turbo head is on the way.LOL

Mike


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## 65535

Scrounge around for Size15's SF collection he has organized bins full of SF parts, he could make an army of SF lego lights.


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## flash_bang

oh hey! I forgot about the pineapple bodies…
I should get one of those, get an E to C converter, then get a Z61 and get a G&P tac bezel. That would look cool, methinks.
HAGO,
flash


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## Unicorn

Mine is pretty tame. Just started out as a 9P, added the shock isolated bezel, then replaced that with KT2 turbohead, and a cheap Pelican pressure switch to make it a weaponlight.

And just so you don't have this problem in the future flash_bang, put more info in your opening posts. The stuff you said in your reply to Empath probably would have kept him from locking it originally if you'd have said it then.


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## flash_bang

I think I'll end up playing E series lego because it's cheaper(I think)
Does anyone know if the E2D strike bezel can be taken off(just the strike part, not the whole bezel) and be transplanted onto a KX2? If not, which ones will it go on?
What's a TW4?
Thanks much,
Flash


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## Kiessling

Hi Flash !
Yes, the E2D bezel can be taken off, but you'd need to break the sealing materials first, and that could be somewhat difficult.

No, it can be transferred to the KX2 as this one does not use a bezel in that style. 

The TW4 is the KL4 head on a 1-cell E-Series body. The name comes from Tactical Warehouse. They sold this configuration some time back.

bernie


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## KeyGrip

As of now the only Lego I have to play with is my L4 with an E series bezel an LF HO-E2A. I am now, however, working on making my 9P breathe fire...


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## Hoghead

flash_bang said:


> I think I'll end up playing E series lego because it's cheaper(I think)
> Does anyone know if the E2D strike bezel can be taken off(just the strike part, not the whole bezel) and be transplanted onto a KX2? If not, which ones will it go on?
> What's a TW4?
> Thanks much,
> Flash


 
I've seen pictures of the E2D strike bezel installed on black KL4's that had been taken from Surefire Scout lights. These were on black E1Es with a E2D tailcap. Sweet!!! 

It seems a few of us had the same idea. I put one of these together, but mine doesn't have the strike bezel. Mine is just a black KL4 on a black E1E with a E2D tailcap.


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## tussery

Here is my L4D as I like to call it.


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## flash_bang

awesome! Is that the same light that's in AZGB's avatar?
thanks,
Flash


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## tussery

It would look that way. Can't be 100% sure as I have never asked about it.


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## BoomerSooner

9P with 3 one cell extenders, KT4 with MN61 and 3 x 17670's. :naughty:

6P with 2 once cell extenders, P91 with 2 x 17670's.

With some CR123's RCR123's, 17500's, an HO-9, EO-9, P-60, P61, P-90, MN16, and MN15 that I have, I can make quite a few combinations with the above stuff. :thumbsup:


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## qarawol

Just one or two that I have...















Njoy...


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## flash_bang

WOW! nice collection there!
I was wondering…are the SW02's really worth the 65 bucks?
I was thinking of upgrading my G2 to a z46 with MN10 and an A19 and a clicky tailcap, or do that but sub the g2 body and A19 with a 3x123 leef body. 

I think I'll get an E2L, see how good the color rendition is, see what I need more of(flood, spot, or a combination thereof) and then purchase my next light accordingly. If the color rendition is good, I'll wait and get the KX5'd L5 when SF releases it. If not, I'll get an M3, M3T, or M4. I'm edging towards the M3T, and then I can get the Z46 later, and I think that's cheaper than getting the M3 and then the 175 dollar turbohead assembly.

Opticsplanet has a lot of the stuff I'm looking at, like the Z46, SW02 and some stuff for weapons lights like a Z46-CB and LU10 for using the universal weaponlight battery housing, the LU10 is just a male-male bezel-body one cell extender, I think, the LU20 is the same, but two cells, and the LU60 is just male-male, no extender, just recoil protection, I think.

Sorry for the rambling post, but yeah.

HAGO,
Flash


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## Monocrom

Had to ask....

Any of you guys experienced reliability issues with your legos?


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## The Porcupine

My only slightly LEGO'ed SF,




L4 with McClicky TC


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## Kiessling

The SW02 looks great and is very ergonomical. It is one of my preferred tailcaps. 
However, I recall Al saying something about more electrical resistance in the SW02 et al than in the new switches. I am not too sure about this though.

bernie


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## Paladin

Eventually you will evolve past SF Lego, and enter the world of Leef Guilt Free Lumens Lego (LGFLL). No Surefires were harmed creating the LGFLL system, _except for that one M972 which had it's (turbo) head chopped off._

Paladin


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## AzGB

That looks mighty familiar! 










tussery said:


> Here is my L4D as I like to call it.


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## flash_bang

Whoooooooo! :twothumbs 
I now enter the realm of surefire lego.
Today I got a Z59 tailcap from sportsman's warehouse. I figure, one clicky on my G2 is worth two in a warehouse 

So anyways, I'll prolly take a pic and post it sometime, maybe after I get home from boxing tomorrow.

HAGO,
Flash

PS, CLICKIES RULE!!!!!!!! I LOVE MY Z59!!!!!


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## lightr07

flash_bang said:


> Whoooooooo! :twothumbs
> I now enter the realm of surefire lego.
> Today I got a Z59 tailcap from sportsman's warehouse. I figure, one clicky on my G2 is worth two in a warehouse
> 
> So anyways, I'll prolly take a pic and post it sometime, maybe after I get home from boxing tomorrow.
> 
> HAGO,
> Flash
> 
> PS, CLICKIES RULE!!!!!!!! I LOVE MY Z59!!!!!



I've got a Sportsman's warehouse about 5 minutes away from me here in Phoenix, I'm going to be using my SF's alot as were moving so i'm going to get a few carded 2 packs of SF123A's and i might get a Z59 while i'm there. What are they charging? and how has the Z59 been so far?


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## djblank87

I do not have any Surefire legos yet. According to surefires website it states the P91 lamp is for the 9P, C3, D3 And Z3. I understand the difference between the P91 and the P61.

I'm just wondering would a P91 lamp fit into a 6P? I do not have any P91 lamps lying around or I would see for myself. Also would this just damage the hell out of the 6P or just suck down battery life like crazy?

Probaly not the right thread to ask this but I didn't want to start a new one for such a little quesiton?

:thinking:


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## AzGB

Easy answers for you...

The P60 and P61 are 6v (2 battery) lamps, making 65 lumens for an hour and 120 lumens for 20 minutes, respectively. The P90 and P91 are the 9v (3 battery) equivalents, 105 lumens for an hour and 200 lumens for 20 minutes, also respectively.

You could probably get light out of a P91 on a 6P, it just wouldn't be terribly strong or attractive, just not enough juice in 2 cells to make it magical.

Hope that helps... Funny, I would've said use the search function, but it takes forever to find anything around here lately. Answers just seemed easier.


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## labrat

P9x is for 9 Volts, P6x is for 6 Volts.
The C3, or other lights (D and Z,) with 3 in the name, is for 3 cells, giving 9 Volts.
The same for those with 2 in the name, for 2 cells, 6 Volts.
With the 9P and 6P the name refers to Volts, and since Surefire does not recommend or use rechargeable cells, this means 3 or 2 primary cells.
The bezels are interchangeable, so these are Surefire's original LEGO's!
I have not seen any product/model number on the bezels/heads for these lights.


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## Size15's

labrat said:


> The bezels are interchangeable, so these are Surefire's original LEGO's!
> I have not seen any product/model number on the bezels/heads for these lights.


The standard bezel is Z44-BK (Black) or Z44-HA (Hard Anodised)


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## djblank87

Thanks for the reply AzGB! I won't be doing that to my 6P, I was just curious, I run the P61 in my 6P defender for work purposes.


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## Dizos




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## Coop

My Lego isn't as spectacular as some of the already posted setups, but what the heck 

E-Series
- KL4 
- L4 body (=E2x)
- ExE bezel
- Z57 Clicky 
- Twisty switch (can't remember the type)
- Fivemega Strion bulb holder
- Various lamp assemblies
- AWs Protected 17670 Li-Ions

I also have an E2C converter (allows use of a C-series Bezel on E-series body), which brings me to:

C-Series
- Z44 Bezel
- Leef 1x18650 body
- Z58 tailcap
- Z48 tailcap
- Leefgrip
- WE 3.7v Lamp assembly
- WE Cree drop-in
- AWs protected 18650 Li-Ions

I used to have a KL1, E1x body and another Z57 too, but unfortunately, I lost it at Disneyland Resort Paris


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## matthewdanger

My latest lego:
6P Bezel
6PD Body
Lighthound Cree Module
Detonator
LOTC with McGizmo 2-Stage guts


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## Monocrom

Can any of you tell me what type of output I'd get with a KL5 head on a 9P body?


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## flash_bang

hey guys, any way I can avoid cross-threading my G2? I'm having an absurdly hard time threading the tailcap. BTW, if I end crossthreading the tailcap and the G2, which one's damaged, the G2 body or the tailcap?
Thanks much,
Flash


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## flash_bang

lightr07 said:


> I've got a Sportsman's warehouse about 5 minutes away from me here in Phoenix, I'm going to be using my SF's alot as were moving so i'm going to get a few carded 2 packs of SF123A's and i might get a Z59 while i'm there. What are they charging? and how has the Z59 been so far?


Z59's been awesome, kinda easy to crossthread when putting it on a G2 though  might end up getting an Al body and a bezel to fix that problem :devil:

the two packs of 123's are priced pretty crappy at the sportsman's warehouse near me, 3.99 for any two pack of 123. at GI Joe's, just a couple minutes down the road from the warehouse, though, are two packs of SF123's that are 3.60 for two. 

the selection of lights and accessories are pretty good at the sportsman's warehouse near me, lots of E-series, and around 40% is C series and M Series. A couple things(like the E2L) is 125, not 129, but everything else is pretty much MSRP. I figure, I might as well buy accessories there, I don't feel like waiting till christmas with my big order 

Toodles,
Flash


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## matthewdanger

The KL5s output will not increase on a 9V body. However, runtime will increase.

If you cross thread a tailcap on a G2 either the tailcap, the body, or mayb even both may be messed up. If it is a replacement metal tailcap then the body is the one that is likely messed up. To avoid cross-threading simple turn the tailcap backwards as if loosening until you hear or feel it drop into place very lightly. This will align the threads perfectly. Now tighten the tailcap.

Edit - I see that you are talking about a Z59 - if you are crossthreading a Z59 then you will mess up your G2 body.


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## Monocrom

matthewdanger said:


> The KL5s output will not increase on a 9V body. However, runtime will increse.


 
Thanks for replying!


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## flash_bang

matthewdanger said:


> If you cross thread a tailcap on a G2 either the tailcap, the body, or maybe even both may be messed up. If it is a replacement metal tailcap then the body is the one that is likely messed up. To avoid cross-threading simple turn the tailcap backwards as if loosening until you hear or feel it drop into place very lightly. This will align the threads perfectly. Now tighten the tailcap.
> 
> Edit - I see that you are talking about a Z59 - if you are crossthreading a Z59 then you will mess up your G2 body.



Okay, I will press the Z59 onto the body, and then unscrew the tailcap till it drops into place, this seems to be the most reliable way of putting the tailcap on. I think because this is such a PITA, I will hopefully acquire a Leef body of some sort and then give my G2 back its old tailcap.

Thanks,
Flash


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## Paladin

matthewdanger said:


> The KL5s output will not increase on a 9V body. However, runtime will increase.


 
Remember though, that on two primary cells you get an hour, with three cells 1.5 hours; _I consider that one cell per half hour either way_. My favorite KL5 host is the Leef 2x18650 for run time and free lumens. As mentioned no significant increase in output was noted.

Paladin


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## Chronos

A couple of other interesting alternatives... search on gnarmin's U2 shorty, which led me to play with a K2 shorty.

A couple of others I had:

KT2 + W-bin tower module + M2 body + TnC Detonator + SW02

Custom KL3 + Leef 2x18500 body + "fatty" SW01 (still have this one)

Custom KL2 + Leef 1x18650 body + "fatty" SW01


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## lightr07

flash_bang said:


> Z59's been awesome, kinda easy to crossthread when putting it on a G2 though  might end up getting an Al body and a bezel to fix that problem :devil:
> 
> the two packs of 123's are priced pretty crappy at the sportsman's warehouse near me, 3.99 for any two pack of 123. at GI Joe's, just a couple minutes down the road from the warehouse, though, are two packs of SF123's that are 3.60 for two.
> 
> the selection of lights and accessories are pretty good at the sportsman's warehouse near me, lots of E-series, and around 40% is C series and M Series. A couple things(like the E2L) is 125, not 129, but everything else is pretty much MSRP. I figure, I might as well buy accessories there, I don't feel like waiting till christmas with my big order
> 
> Toodles,
> Flash



I might get a Z59 for one of my G2's. My local store has the entire (almost) SureFire line. They have every light except for the M4 and L7 Lumamax. I also got to hold the all mighty M6 for a few minutes (Oddly enough the guy who usually works at the counter also likes flashlights. :devil Although trust me, Here its very hard to find 123A's in a retail store for under 13.00 for two. So that 3.99 for two (carded) is a steal. Which is probably why they have 5 of the wire "hooks" with just those at 3.99.

When you were there did you happen to see any of there new Cree Lights? I'm thinking of getting one soon so it would be nice if they had them. 

(P.S Remember! Christmas is only 4 month's away now! )


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## yaesumofo

Here is some of my surefire lego to look at:
A matched Pair. Even the beams are matched. No mean feat with the KL4.





Somthing else for hot wire fun:





More KL4 fun:




Yaesumofo


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## PetesTactical

Here is my only current LEGO.

C2 body and tailcap with 6PD bezzle, Malkoff P60 drop in, AW protected RCR123's. I love this light!


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## flash_bang

awesome, pete!
I think my lego will be M2 bezel on my G2, then when I get my 6PL, it'll be the M2 bezel on the 6PL and Z59 on the 6PL, then I will have the stock G2, but with the 6PL bezel.
HAGO,
Flash


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## flash_bang

well, I decided to go with an M2 HA-NAT bezel sometime, with a P91, mount that on my G2 maybe. Put that on my L5 when I get that if I feel like I need incan light.
This is what I have so far:
G2 with an FM35 red filter and Z59 clicky tailcap












yay, finally some lego that I can post!

HAGO,
Flash


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## AzGB

That's a great build, I did the exact same thing a few months back (sans RCR's) and specifically ordered a Malkoff for it. That drop-in was half the reason I did the extensive Beamshot shootoff. One of the best overall packages I've got. Nicely done... :thumbsup:



PetesTactical said:


> Here is my only current LEGO.
> 
> C2 body and tailcap with 6PD bezzle, Malkoff P60 drop in, AW protected RCR123's. I love this light!


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## NickDrak

Excellent thread goin on here!

Mine is a M2 bezel with a Malkoff P60 drop-in, Leef 3xCR123/2x18500 body and Leef grip, along with a SF Z48 clicky. I use regular (AmondoTech "Titanium") CR123's. This is the light I drive around with on-duty "At the ready" right between my legs for when I need to light someone/something up real quick!


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## flash_bang

does anyone know why the SW01 is so much rarer than the SW02?
Who carries one or both of those tailcaps???
What's the serial number(for the M2 bezel in HA-BK it's 13586-11, and I think the SW tailcaps have a number like that, but I don't know what it is…)

Thanks very much!
Flash


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## NickDrak

I just switched out the Leef body for a new C3 Centurion body that I snagged. I prefer the C3 because of the pocket clip.


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## DM51

@ flash bang, I don't know how rare SW01s & SW02s are, but they aren't impossible to find. CPFer brightspot may have some left - try sending him a PM.

@ NickDrak, I'm very glad indeed you decided to switch those bodies, lol!

Here's one of my SF FrankenLegos.


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## lightemup

Quick lego question guys: Is the older Surefire L1 tailcap the same one as the new Cree Tailcap? i.e. if i put an older L1 tailcap on a new Cree L1 and vice versa it'll work the same? Thanks


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## DM51

Yes, it will work just the same.


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## Hoghead

lightemup said:


> Quick lego question guys: Is the older Surefire L1 tailcap the same one as the new Cree Tailcap? i.e. if i put an older L1 tailcap on a new Cree L1 and vice versa it'll work the same? Thanks


 

Like DM51 said, it's the same switch and just for anyone that cares, it is the same switch as the A2 & L2.


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## lightemup

Actually I just got an A2 as well, thanks for the info


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## tenbears10

I have a couple of lego surefires which I use on duty:

an old yellow G2 with Z58 tailcap and lumens factory HO-4 bulb.

a new style M2 with SW02 tailcap and red filter.

Can anyone tell me if an LU10 head unit would fit on the M2 to make it a 3 cell? thanks in advance.


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## flash_bang

Haven't posted here in forever, but here's a quick pic of a lego I made to take a pic for a fellow CPF'er.






It's a G2 body with a P60L drop-in, and my 6PL bezel, and a Z59 tailcap.

EDIT: yay! 600th post!
HAGO,
Flash


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## Sgt. LED

I need a single RCR123 cell SF C series compatible tube. Can anyone give me a list of options? Other than a 3P body that is, a bit pricy to buy the light just for the tube.


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## KeyGrip

I don't think that particular tube is out there. A good alternative would be a single cell E series body (Aleph, Vital Gear) with an E to C adaptor.


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## Sgt. LED

Oh man, I really want to avoid making it any longer that I have to. How is it that amongst the members of CPF and their skilled machining talents that this product isn't being offered anywhere. Crap


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## flash_bang

I'm guessing it's because if people want it to be short, they also want it to be thin…
Maybe a Leef 1x18500 would work? with a spacer, of course

HAGO,
Flash


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## Greg G

Here is my Surefire L5. The forward, original portion of the body is bored for a 18650 battery, it has a Seoul P4 USWOH emitter in it (straight swap out with the Lux V), a Sandwich Shoppe SOB 1000ma driver, and I added an extender that I cut down and re-threaded from a Leef 1x18650 flashlight body. Depending on the configuration I decide to have it in, it will run on 2x 123's, 4x 123's, 1x 18650, or 2x 18650, which is what is in the light now. I also have two Inox lanyard rings (from Lighthound) sandwiched between the extender and body.


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## gottawearshades

flash_bang said:


> Haven't posted here in forever, but here's a quick pic of a lego I made to take a pic for a fellow CPF'er.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a G2 body with a P60L drop-in, and my 6PL bezel, and a Z59 tailcap.
> 
> EDIT: yay! 600th post!
> HAGO,
> Flash




Howdy. I have the same setup, a 6p head on a g2 body, and I was thinking of adding a Malkoff dropin to it. 

Would the heat-management be markedly better, or would the 20-minutes-and-it-melts rule still apply? The head is metal, but part of the plastic body still touches the LA.

Cheers.


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## KeyGrip

You shouldn't be able to damage the nitrolon, and if you somehow do, the emitter and electronics will be beyond toast. The metal will help sink the heat more than the nitrolon head.


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## flash_bang

ditto what keygrip said, also, with the pyrex lens you won't have to worry about it bubbling or anything.

HAGO,
Flash


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## gottawearshades

Cool. So, I'll able to occasionally run the light beyond 20 minutes.

Thanks!


----------



## 1wrx7

This is the reason I like Surefire lights. Out of all of the parts I've bought in the last year I have only one lego light that doesn't change. Sorry no pics but,

KT1 HA turbohead w/ :twothumbsscallops from KT4:twothumbs and seoul P4 tower mod @917ma
M2 body
M series LOTC w/ 30ohm 2stage guts

The rest of the lights get swapped around a lot. If you get the chance to put a M3 bezel on a M6 it should put a smile on your face:thinking:. I haven't tried running a bulb in it, but the MN15 9v M3T bulb works in the turbohead. Maybe the MN10 would work in the M3 head.

At least the interchanability of parts gives us an excuse for buying more. That's what I keep telling myself anyway:naughty:.


----------



## adamlau

Current and future SF lego lights:

G2L + Z44 + DL 2SD Q5 + 1x17670 + Z33 + Z59 (Or w/ DL 1S)
G2L + Z44 + WE 13V Q5 + 2xRCR123A + Z33 + Z59
G2L + Z44 + WE 2-Mode 6V Q5 + 1x17670 + Z33 + Z59 (Waiting on WE 2-Mode 6V Q5)
6PD + WE 13V Q5 + 2x17500 + Z33 + Leef McClicky
LeefBody C-C + KT1 + LF EO-9 + 2x18650 + Z41 (Waiting on LeefBody C-C + Z41)
LeefBody C-M + KT4 + LF EO-M3T + 2x18650 + Z41 (Waiting on LeefBody C-M + Z41)


----------



## flash_bang

awesome setups guys!
Does anyone know when leef is gonna start making his C-C and C-M bodies again?

Thanks,
Flash


----------



## adamlau

This should be how my Lego setup will look within two weeks:

G2L + FM34 + Z44 + Dereelight 1S R2 + AW 1x17670
G2L + FM34 + Z44 + Wolf-Eyes 2-Mode Q5 + AW 1x17670 + Z59
6PD + Glo-Ring + Dereelight 1SM-2 + Detonator + AW 2x17500 + Z33 + Leef McClicky
LeefBody C-C + FM34 + Z32 + UCL + Dereelight 3SD Q5 + AW 1x18650 + Z33 + Z59
LeefBody C-C + FM64 + M2 Bezel + Glo-Ring + Dereelight 3SD R2 + Pila 1x600P + Z33 + Z58
LeefBody C-C + FM24 + KT1-HA + MN16 + Pila 2x600P + Z33 + Z + Glo-Ring + 41 McC2S


----------



## Eric242

NickDrak said:


> I just switched out the Leef body for a new C3 Centurion body that I snagged. I prefer the C3 because of the pocket clip.


I just received a new C2 body. With the pictures NickDrak posted I assume I can put a new style M2 head on my C2 body as well?

Eric


----------



## umc

Tagging for later reference.

Lot's of nice setups here.


----------



## Lunal_Tic

Here are a few of mine. The aftermarket guys have really added some great parts to the Lego concept.

-LT


----------



## 2000xlt

Cool stuff here. this should be made a sticky


----------



## c0t0d0s0

NickDrak said:


> Excellent thread goin on here!
> 
> Mine is a M2 bezel with a Malkoff P60 drop-in, Leef 3xCR123/2x18500 body and Leef grip, along with a SF Z48 clicky. I use regular (AmondoTech "Titanium") CR123's. This is the light I drive around with on-duty "At the ready" right between my legs for when I need to light someone/something up real quick!



This is exactly what I have (with a P91 and 2 18500's) 

Gotta love the 3 cell form factor!


----------



## Monocrom

Eric242 said:


> I just received a new C2 body. With the pictures NickDrak posted I assume I can put a new style M2 head on my C2 body as well?
> 
> Eric


 
The M2, C2, and L5 have the same bodies. Only the heads are different. 

So, it should fit.


----------



## 270winchester

E1e bk head, tail cap, Aleph bk one cell tube, E-Micro Tower FT1


----------



## Eric242

Monocrom said:


> The M2, C2, and L5 have the same bodies. Only the heads are different.


Thank you Monocrom!

That´s my ******* => M2 head, C2 body, RPM tailcap, LED drop-in





Eric


----------



## Monocrom

Eric242 said:


> Thank you Monocrom!
> 
> That´s my ******* => M2 head, C2 body, RPM tailcap, LED drop-in
> 
> Eric


 
Glad I was able to help. 

Which LED drop-in are you using?


----------



## labrat

Sgt. LED said:


> I need a single RCR123 cell SF C series compatible tube. Can anyone give me a list of options? Other than a 3P body that is, a bit pricy to buy the light just for the tube.




Aleph 1x123 body and E2C-adapter:


----------



## labrat

Some other LEGO's, both with incandescent and LED-drop-ins.


----------



## stitch_paradox

Malkoff and LF HO incan lego.





My 14500 Sf lego, does not fit a cr123 but fits the AA size battery perfectly. I haven't found the suitable dropin yet.


----------



## 2xTap

Here's a couple of mine..........







Surefire 6P Defender with Detonator cell extender and a Leef McClicky, running a BOG Premium CREE Drop-In. The Surefire C3 has a SF-Z48 Clicky installed and is running a Ultrafire CREE Q4 Drop-In at the moment. I'm thinking of going with a Turbo Head for this in the near future.

And this one, while no longer a Surefire Lego as it has no SF parts on it, it did start life with a E2E head and tailcap when I first got it..........







PEU Pineapple body with a TLS CREE Q5 head and a McClicky single-stage McTC tailcap.

2xTap


----------



## Eric242

Monocrom said:


> Which LED drop-in are you using?


I keep forgetting about this thread..... it´s a Solarforce Cree R2 drop-in. The beam is not that nice and could have more spill but it´s still ok and bright. It´s a little brighter than a fenix T1. Before that I used a LumensFactory EO-9 bulb.

Eric


----------



## dmz

2xTap, I really like your lego with the 6PD. How does the Leef McClicky compare to the z59 tailcap that comes with the 6PD?


----------



## 2xTap

dmz,

The Leef McClicky is worlds better than the Z59 that comes on the 6PD, and the Leef will tailstand. Here's another pic of my 6PD Lego.......







Matter of fact the original Z59 that came on my 6PD stopped working the first week I had it. It locked up......clicked it to the full ON position and it stayed there, would not click OFF. Took some messing around with it to get it to work again, and then it would only work correctly every once in a while. Ordered another Z59 and that one has been fine, but saw these McClicky's and got one......never looked back. Function of the McClicky is much smoother and more quiet than the Z59 as well.

Though I do got a Z48 on my C3, these are real good Forward Clickies from SF. SF Z48/49 = Good.....SF Z58/59 = not so good.....Leef McClicky = better than both!

2xTap


----------



## seattlite




----------



## milkyspit

Seattlite, those are completely INSANE!

I LOVE 'EM!!! :naughty:


----------



## yankeefist

legos


----------



## dmz

2xTap, Thanks for the additional picture of your 6PD lego. Great looking flashlight.

How much taller is the Leef McClicky compared to the z59 tailcap? 

I'm going to get a Leef McClicky for my 6PD. I want to get another Leef McClicky for my G2. Does any one have a pic of the Leef McClicky on a G2?


----------



## litetube

Sure wish Leef would make more of the rounded non scalloped clickie tails. All that is left at the Hound is the black Scalloped. Anyone also know how to beg LEEF to make more ?


----------



## SimpleIsGood229

flash_bang said:


> Haven't posted here in forever, but here's a quick pic of a lego I made to take a pic for a fellow CPF'er.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a G2 body with a P60L drop-in, and my 6PL bezel, and a Z59 tailcap.
> 
> EDIT: yay! 600th post!
> HAGO,
> Flash


I have a set up very similar to that. Mine is a G3 body with standard clickie, P60L, and 6P Defender bezel. I find the Nitrolon body to give a much better grip. :thumbsup:


----------



## 2xTap

dmz said:


> 2xTap, Thanks for the additional picture of your 6PD lego. Great looking flashlight.
> 
> How much taller is the Leef McClicky compared to the z59 tailcap?
> 
> I'm going to get a Leef McClicky for my 6PD. I want to get another Leef McClicky for my G2. Does any one have a pic of the Leef McClicky on a G2?


 
The Leef McClicky is 1 3/8" tall, the Z59 is 1 1/4" tall......right at 1/8" difference between the two.

2xTap


----------



## generic808

Here's a few of my 6P's, my preferred platform.


----------



## thegeek

So will the 6p heads fit on a C2 or are they different?


----------



## seattlite

thegeek said:


> So will the 6p heads fit on a C2 or are they different?



Yes. The 6P heads will fit the C2 body.


----------



## thegeek

seattlite said:


> Yes. The 6P heads will fit the C2 body.



Great! I have an E2C adapter on the way and needed to know what heads I could use with it. Thanks!


----------



## Eric242

My current Legos:

* The Big *******:*
http://www.ea242.de/pic/lampen/surefire-*******01.jpg
M3 Head + Leef C2M + C2 Body + Z58 Tailcap + LumensFactory D36 LED Drop-In _(almost completed, just a SW01 is missing)_

* The Black *******:*
http://www.ea242.de/pic/lampen/surefire-black-*******.jpg
KL3-BK-BL (Blue LED) + C2 Body + U2 Tailcap

* E1D:*




E2D Head + E1e Body + E2D Tailcap + E-MT F2 LED Drop-In by [coala & yclo]


----------



## Stillphoto

Posted elsewhere but equally appropriate here:


----------



## Justin Case




----------



## elumen8

Stillphoto said:


> Posted elsewhere but equally appropriate here:


 
So glad this thread lived on, this Lego is exactly what I was thinking about. E1E with LU60A adapter and Malkoff M30. Now that I see it, I want it even more. Pictures really are worth a thousand words.

Thanks for the pics.

I've got:
-G2 body/Z59 tailcap/aluminum defender bezel/Malkoff M60L
-G2 body & tailcap/aluminum bezel/FM34 diffuser/Malkoff M60 (my favorite)
-6PD body & bezel/6P momentary twisty tailcap/P61
-E1L body & bezel/E2D tailcap
-E2D body & bezel/E1E tailcap
OT just a stretch...I rigged a surefire FM24 diffuser on a Mag2C mod. Looks funny and kinda cool at the same time.

No pics yet because I'm picture posting challenged. 

-JB


----------



## Blindasabat

My favorite Leggos are 
1) the original L1 head (upgraded by Milyspit to ML1 SSC) on E1e body with a McE2S 2-stage switch on RCR123 and 15degree luxeon optic from Photonfanatic
2) KX2b 2-stage head on E1e body with RCR123
3) E2DL 2-stage on 17500 Aleph body with 2xRCR2. Full power from the E2DL with the smallest size. Run-time? who needs runtime when you have that throw in your pocket?


----------



## Superdave

Here is one that will make U2 owners cringe... (mine has a bad driver so no lectures please  )







the KT1 screws right into the driver section of the U2 once the driver is removed, the MN15 lamp makes perfect contact and she works like a champ. 

I put this together just for kicks, i got the KT1 today for $40 brand new. 


i'll have a new lego soon, one that i'll actually use.. just waiting on one more piece.


----------



## Stillphoto

Superdave...Nice score on the KT1!


----------



## Superdave

Stillphoto said:


> Superdave...Nice score on the KT1!


 

Thanks!

I like it, Now to get Milky to build me a MC-E tower module for it. :thumbsup:


----------



## coyote223

Just a couple.


----------



## Kiessling

Superdave ... does that mean you gutted (gasp!) a U2 and can then use the upper section of the KT1 with the lower head section of the U2 ... and the incan lamps fit? Right?

You thus effectively use the KT1 with the U2 body, which is cool.

bernie


----------



## Superdave

Kiessling said:


> Superdave ... does that mean you gutted (gasp!) a U2 and can then use the upper section of the KT1 with the lower head section of the U2 ... and the incan lamps fit? Right?
> 
> You thus effectively use the KT1 with the U2 body, which is cool.
> 
> bernie


 

Yep. If i had a 6V lamp i'd use it and ditch the extender.. 

I still have the driver, it'll all drop right back in if/when I want to put it back together. The driver has mode issues and since i voided the warranty after a few beers one night i'm out of luck on it. I might repair it or wait till some U2 parts come up in the marketplace. 

For now I have a LU60 coming so i can run a 6PD head on the U2 with a Q5 dropin. :thumbsup:


----------



## bigchelis

This is my newest experiment. It is E1e with 700 Lumens. Yes, I have the AW 16340 protected cell, Malkoff P7, and EtoC adaptor. I currently use the P7 in my Pentagon PX1, but will soon add it to an E1B:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs

With my cr123's it ran for 15 minutes with no drop in output. 
At around 17/18 minutes the output droped and I stoped at 20 minutes.

Still very impressive runtime. Next, I will try it with my AW16340's.


----------



## mudman cj

I have only recently started buying Surefire lights, but I have taken a liking to the E series. 

Below from left: 
1) KL4 head modded with MC-E 5A on custom heat sink and stock circuit. Currently attached to an E1L body with Z57 tailcap and holding an IMR16340.
2) FM 18500 clicky body
3) E2E body (bored for 17670) with Z57 tailcap
4) FM 18650 clicky body
5) KL1 head modded with Seoul high CRI 4000K CCT LED at 750mA and IMS20 reflector above an L4 body (bored for 17670)
6) stock bezel






So, I can use the stock setup or put in the IMR16340 cells with my soon to arrive LF IMR-E2 for 350 bulb lumens. 

Then come the LED combinations. Either the KL1 or KL4 can run from a single IMR16340, 17670, 18500, 18650 or two CR123 and the KL1 can also run on two RCR123. I'm not sure what would happen with the stock KL4 circuit on two IMR16340 cells. :shrug: Add to this my Art Of The Hide holester that perfectly fits any of these heads and you have quite a lot of EDC options.


----------



## DaFABRICATA

mudman cj said:


> Then come the LED combinations. Either the KL1 or KL4 can run from a single IMR16340, 17670, 18500, 18650 or two CR123 and the KL1 can also run on two RCR123. I'm not sure what would happen with the stock KL4 circuit on two IMR16340 cells. :shrug: Add to this my Art Of The Hide holester that perfectly fits any of these heads and you have quite a lot of EDC options.


 


Running the KL4 on 2 X RCR123's will make it go .

Thats my experiance anyway.


----------



## SureAddicted

bigchelis said:


> This is my newest experiment. It is E1e with 700 Lumens. Yes, I have the AW 16340 protected cell, Malkoff P7, and EtoC adaptor.




The Malkoff P7 @ 700 lumens, isn't that with 2 cr123's?

EDIT 600- 700 lumens with a 18650 or 17670...wondering how you fit one of them inside a E1E.


----------



## bigchelis

The P7 runs on a single cell whether it be a cr123 or an 18650. As long as the cell can handle the 2.8amp draw. There will be differences in runtime. As long as you use an E to C adaptor you can put any 6P head on any E series body.


----------



## SureAddicted

bigchelis said:


> The P7 runs on a single cell whether it be a cr123 or an 18650. As long as the cell can handle the 2.8amp draw. There will be differences in runtime. As long as you use an E to C adaptor you can put any 6P head on any E series body.




So you can get 700 lumens from one cr123?
According to Gene, the P7 is only suitable for 18650 and 17670 rechargeable cells.
I think this is a similar case to the L4 and TW4. With 2 cells you get 100 lumens, in the one cell configuration you get half of that, I'm guessing.


----------



## gswitter

It should run fine on a CR123A, but with reduced output.

For full output, you'll need a 2.8A @ 3.6-4.2v - so either a high current Li-ion/LiPo cell (AW "C", 18650, 17670, IMR16340, etc) or 3x NiMH cells.


----------



## SureAddicted

Thanks gswitter.


----------



## bigchelis

gswitter said:


> It should run fine on a CR123A, but with reduced output.
> 
> For full output, you'll need a 2.8A @ 3.6-4.2v - so either a high current Li-ion/LiPo cell (AW "C", 18650, 17670, IMR16340, etc) or 3x NiMH cells.


 
I ran it with ebay version 16340 and it ran with no drop in output for 15minutes, but by 20 minutes it was probably about half the output. I also have AW16340, which are designed for this 2.8amp draw safely.

For practicality I use it with a single 18650. For pure amazement I use it in a single cell 16340 (3.6v-4.2v) set-up/lego and although it's amazing the runtime is compromised.


----------



## gswitter

Still a work in progress, but here's the first cut of my E-series, L6 Porcupine homage... _*The Pineapple Killer*_

Assault bezel ring from a SolarForce A001 bezel
SolarForce L2 bezel (I'd rather it was a 6P bezel)
Vital Gear E2C
Peu Pineapple
McGizmo McTC...


----------



## Superdave

Nice!

yah, it's too bad the Solarforce crowns have a finer thread than the SF ones.


----------



## KDOG3

This thread is sick. Just sick I tell you...


----------



## kungfumo

My EDC


----------



## Superdave

Here is my new EDC Lego..













Of course the SF switch failed yesterday.. this is the 2nd one i've had go bad on my U2. :shakehead


----------



## Stillphoto

Nice legos Superdave. Man what is it with those U2 tailcaps? I guess the intricacy of the build is a bit fail prone?

We can just call those _Vista_ tailcaps :naughty:


----------



## Superdave

thanks!

Not sure.. I have a few that i've repaired in the past but this one is stubborn. It's even the newest style white plastic one. 

I guess it's now just a twisty


----------



## flash_bang

Well, I think I've started to hit the motherlode with this whole Surefire Lego thing.






I threw my BC8 and my SC1 in there just for S&G. 

The top one is a G2, with a Z59 clicky, and a P60L dropin, and the combat hook.

The bottom one is a 6PL, with an A19, FM35 red filter, and a combat ring.

Any ideas on some REALLY high powered LED stuff? I'm looking at the D26 LED by LF, but I'm not sure if it will be bright enough.

Thanks much!
Flash


----------



## tx101

A pair of sharp pointy things


----------



## flash_bang

tx101 said:


> A pair of sharp pointy things
> ...picture cut...


ooooooh, I like the bezel on the left one. Esp. the look of the heatsinks. What's it called?


----------



## tx101

flash_bang said:


> ooooooh, I like the bezel on the left one. Esp. the look of the heatsinks. What's it called?



It came off a Spiderfire light :naughty:


----------



## DHart

Surefire "clones" allowed? No "actual" Surefires were injured or dismantled in creating my first Surefire "clone" lego...

Fivemega 18650 body, Solarforce crenulated head & clicky tail, Malkoff P7 lamp assembly, AW IMR 18650 cell. 

Wonderful, brilliant, "wall of light", great for general indoor use and for "in-your-face" defensive encounters.






















After seeing Bigchellis' wonderful P7 blasters, I'm inspired to dismantle my old E2...


----------



## Monocrom

DHart said:


> Surefire "clones" allowed? No "actual" Surefires were injured or dismantled in creating my first Surefire "clone" lego...
> 
> Fivemega 18650 body, Solarforce crenulated head & clicky tail, Malkoff P7 lamp assembly, AW IMR 18650 cell.


 
Ironically, you created something that I had toyed with.... A light put together from different aftermarket, Surefire-compatable, parts. 

Must admit, you ended up with a better one than what I had envisioned creating. :twothumbs


----------



## Eric242

I always wanted to use a FM18500 body but wasn´t quite sure what else to attach to it. Inspired by DHart´s "roomsweeper" I built my new EDC lego today:

Surefire 6PD head + FM 18500 body + SW01 slim knockoff I took off my G&P Scorpion R500 (replaced it with the Solarforce switch DHart´s using on his light).
The bright part is a LumensFactory 3.7V R2 LED dropin. I have two Novatac EDC clips coming from lighthound and one will go on this lego. 
Unfortunatelly there´s a small gap (~2mm) with the dropin installed. So I´ll try a file on this one. [Edit: Now the gap is gone!]
http://www.ea242.de/pic/lampen/18500-*******1.jpg

I wish I´d have some modding skills! I´d mod the KL3-BK with a newer LED and make it my EDC light. I like the look of the KL3 much better than the 6PD head on this lego:
http://www.ea242.de/pic/lampen/18500-*******2.jpg


----------



## coyote223

Just a few spare parts.


----------



## DHart

Eric242 said:


> I always wanted to use a FM18500 body but wasn´t quite sure what else to attach to it. Inspired by DHart´s "roomsweeper" I built my new EDC lego today:
> 
> Surefire 6PD head + FM 18500 body + SW01 slim knockoff I took off my G&P Scorpion R500 (replaced it with the Solarforce switch DHart´s using on his light).
> The bright part is a LumensFactory 3.7V R2 LED dropin. I have two Novatac EDC clips coming from lighthound and one will go on this lego.
> Unfortunatelly there´s a small gap (~2mm) with the dropin installed. So I´ll try a file on this one. [Edit: Now the gap is gone!]
> 
> I wish I´d have some modding skills! I´d mod the KL3-BK with a newer LED and make it my EDC light. I like the look of the KL3 much better than 6PD head on this lego:
> ]




Eric... cool little blaster! I like it... especially with the KL3 head. Nice pics too! 

I, like you, would like to have the skills and knowledge to do some modding rather than just play lego. Well.. you can always send that KL3 head to someone like Milky to have it just as you want it!


----------



## DHart

Here's my latest lego... sure love this combo... really brilliant light with a great beam and the little E1e body is so nice!

TLS Cree Q5 Head on E1e body





No SF parts here, but I guess this could be called "clone-lego" 

TLS Cree Q5 Head w/Fivemega E1 body & Clickie


----------



## Eric242

Wow, the TSL head looks really good on the E1e body :thumbsup:. Pretty good colour match too.


----------



## Eric242

Btw., is that a plain bezel or impact bezel on your TLS head?


----------



## Monocrom

Eric242 said:


> Btw., is that a plain bezel or impact bezel on your TLS head?


 
Definitely plain bezel. Impact bezel on the TLS heads are very aggressive in style.


----------



## herbicide

I don't seem to have actually posted this here. Shocking, I know.




[E1e head, LF EO-E1R, E1 body, McTC]




[Here it is in bits]

Clicky to see it in it's stock form.


----------



## Justin Case

Eric242 said:


> Wow, the TSL head looks really good on the E1e body :thumbsup:. Pretty good colour match too.



Color match probably depends. The TLS head is clearly lighter than the E1L body in my case. You can also see color variations within the SureFire parts as well.


----------



## Eric242

That´s true. I have to admit I really like it when Surefire lights have some parts with different colour variations like the one on the left. According to OpticsHQ the anodizing of the E-series TLS heads match the Surefire bodies better now.

Eric


----------



## TMedina

coyote223 said:


> Just a few spare parts.



Alright, I'll bite - what's that tail from?

I'm really liking that lego. :twothumbs

-Trevor


----------



## herbicide

Looks like it's from a Nitecore extreme - if the head from one will fit on an E1 bodyooo: ), it stands to reason the converse is true.


----------



## DHart

Eric... yes, my TLS head is the NON-crenelated bezel.



Justin Case said:


> Color match probably depends. The TLS head is clearly lighter than the E1L body in my case. You can also see color variations within the SureFire parts as well.



Justin... I have a new L1 I just bought that has three distinctly different color anodized areas... and not because it's lego'd... looks pretty cool.


----------



## DHart

herbicide said:


> Looks like it's from a Nitecore extreme - if the head from one will fit on an E1 bodyooo: ), it stands to reason the converse is true.



Herbicide... are the Extreme parts and E-series parts basically plug'n'play with each other?


----------



## herbicide

DHart said:


> Herbicide... are the Extreme parts and E-series parts basically plug'n'play with each other?



So I read today. Or yesterday. Can't remember where though.
*searches*

Here'll do.


----------



## DHart

herbicide... THANK YOU! Looks like I may have an NEX inbound before too long... like I need another light. [email protected]! I appreciate your help.


----------



## maxilux

Sorry, that i must ask, what means "lego" i dont understand this, Thanks


----------



## Size15's

maxilux said:


> Sorry, that i must ask, what means "lego" i dont understand this, Thanks


LEGO is the term we use when we create a new or novel flashlight by mixing and matching parts and component combinations.
This is achieved through interchangeability; usually through the components using of the same threads so various components can be swapped and screwed together.
Why use the term?
The LEGO company's flagship product, "Lego", consists of colourful interlocking plastic bricks and an accompanying array of ... various other parts. Lego bricks can be assembled and connected in many ways... Anything constructed can then be taken apart again, and the pieces used to make other objects.
[quoted an spell-checked from Wikipedia]

Why SureFire?
SureFire continued to be one of the strongest proponents of interchangeability - the ability to create a flashlight or WeaponLight tailored to the task and/or situation is something SureFire pioneered.
With the advent of a Flashaholic community here on CPF many companies have developed products using SureFire as the standard to be interchangeable with. This 'aftermarket' as I call it covers almost every aspect of flashlights and is the source of much interest and enjoyment as people find they can often indulge their desires to have a flashlight 'just the way they want it' rather than be forced to have a flashlight as the manufacturer intends (usually as result of using completely different design criteria)

Al


----------



## maxilux

Oh, thanks, i know LEGO, but i did not know that the answer is so easy, thanks.


----------



## Justin Case

Eric242 said:


> That´s true. I have to admit I really like it when Surefire lights have some parts with different colour variations like the one on the left. According to OpticsHQ the anodizing of the E-series TLS heads match the Surefire bodies better now.
> 
> Eric



See this CPF post for example, showing a better color match with the new TLS heads. You can also see that they changed the design vs my older version from early 2008.


----------



## DHart

Based on Justin's recommendation in another thread, I decided to try the TLS head on the E1e. And I could not be happier with it! Thank you, Justin!

More pics of the TLS head on my new E1e body... both from Mike @ OpticsHQ.com. Awesome, very compact set up and bright as heck! E-series legos are great fun.












I like this E1e NAT so much that I had to order a black E1e from Mike as well... for $60 shipping included, I was powerless to resist! They make such a great host for E- legos and mods.


----------



## boudeou

each parts are interchangeable , i love lego


----------



## rtt

boudeou....nice collection! What are the components on the Backup body? Can you measure the overall length and post the measurement?


----------



## boudeou

thank you rtt

the head is an aleph mule : http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=1128

tailcap is aleph flat : http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=556

overall length is 73mm (2,87inch)


----------



## DHart

very cool stuff, boudeou! Thanks for the pics and the info.


----------



## foxtrot824

Here is one I'm working on. I had a tail cap failure on my L1 so I requested one from SF and they promptly sent one out. This left me with a tail cap to play with. I found that the threads that hold the rubber boot on are same as an e series head. I'm currently working on finding the proper LED to place in there. I'm open to suggestions, keep in mind that the "bezel" is 19mm in diameter and maybe 10mm in height including the LED.


----------



## gswitter

DHart said:


> ...are the Extreme parts and E-series parts basically plug'n'play with each other?


The Extreme *head* has worked on every E-compatible body I've tried to date. It's a little flaky on switchless twisty bodies (like the original Vital Gears or Arc 2AA) but some of the features will still work.

The Extreme *body* is hit-or-miss with other E-compatible heads. The inner diameter of the Extreme body isn't quite as wide as most E-series bodies, so some heads can't screw down all the way.


----------



## DHart

gswitter... thank you for that information... very helpful!


----------



## Illum

boudeou said:


> each parts are interchangeable , i love lego





:lolsign: love that backup, aleph parts gets good use I see:huh:


----------



## Braddah_Bill

Some Old School lego...........




 

KL1/Balrog3/McClicky 3 cells for long runtime
KL1/Vital Gear 2AA For in a pinch
3P/M30/RPM tail cap this is a little pocket rocket 

Both KL1s were modded to reflectors.​ 



Braddah_Bill


----------



## SUREFIRED

Mine is nothing too special, I just switched my E2D's tailcap with my E1B's tc. The result is a Backup with better grip and the tailstand ability.


----------



## QtrHorse

Braddah_Bill said:


> Some Old School lego...........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> KL1/Balrog3/McClicky 3 cells for long runtime
> KL1/Vital Gear 2AA For in a pinch
> 3P/M30/RPM tail cap this is a little pocket rocket​
> Both KL1s were modded to reflectors.​
> 
> 
> 
> Braddah_Bill


 
Is that white looking ring on the 3P clone a glow ring or some kind of spacer?


----------



## Braddah_Bill

The 3P is not a clone, and yes it's a glow ring by the tail.



QtrHorse said:


> Is that white looking ring on the 3P clone a glow ring or some kind of spacer?






Bill


----------



## QtrHorse

Braddah_Bill said:


> The 3P is not a clone, and yes it's a glow ring by the tail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bill


 
Thank you,

I only called it a clone because it had the RPM tailcap on it.:twothumbs


----------



## Blindasabat

Long overdue to put a picture in this thread...




A low quality cropped picture, but representative of some of my favorite E-series legos. I swap parts on these daily.
Left - Aleph 17500 with L1 head direct drive. My Cree L1 is a screamer in this configuration and draws just over an amp. It can handle and Amp, right?
Middle - 1st Gen L1 head with Milky modded SSC goodness. Over 150 lumens DD on an RCR123, but with a nice low available on the McE2S TC. Great pocket light. I have an optic in it that gives me the perfect blend of throw and flood with a massive corona that makes it a wall of light.
Right - Wolf in sheep's clothing. You know something isn't quite right if you know E-series. A KX1 can't even FIT on an L1 body... but there it is. This is another bit of Milky mixed with some of bigboy's magic. Milky bored & stroked the L1 tube to fit a 17500 with a floating spacer at the tail end so the two stage TC works like SureFire intended. The KX1 has been worked over by bigboy with a sweet neutral Cree Q3 3A emitter and SOB1000 buck circuit that can handle up to 16V. So I have... wait for it... two RCR2's in the body driving the SOB at a voltage level it likes so it can breathe it's fire. This is an awesome setup. 
I had a few more I cropped out of this picture that I just didn't have time to write about, but here is a better picture of the Minime in the center above. That is a rough cut section of bike inner tube on the Aleph TC. I put it on out of necessity one day to mouth hold - meaning to replace it with a straigher cut section later, but I just never did. Now it is an indelible part of this light's character. It doesn't say 'bite here' it says 'bite me!'


----------



## herbicide

[McTC w/ GID boot, SF E1 body, Valiantco extender, E1e head, running an LF EO-E1R on a 17670 (sorry about the dust)]

The black thing on it's own is a TnC E2C waiting for a head.

The clip's looking a bit superfluous now.

Just waiting for a Solarforce head, reflector module and E-series IMR lamp now...


----------



## Stillphoto

Just scored an oldschool round body 6p from the 'bay - The lego hoard grows stronger!

Now I'll finally have a "proper" looking 3p.


----------



## bullfrog

Eric242 said:


> http://www.ea242.de/pic/lampen/18500-*******2.jpg



Hey Eric - great looking lego and great pics!

Just wondering, where did you get those flat-round cordlocks? Been looking for them everywhere but can only find em wholesale direct from China...

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Eric242

I bought these at a german shop, Sierra 313. Might help if you search for "National Molding Zipper Pull" if you didn´t already. 

Slight update on my LegoLight. I scrapped the Surefire Lanyard ring and attached a Novatac EDC clip. The clip fits perfect! As if made for a 6PD head on a FM 18500 body. 

http://www.ea242.de/pic/lampen/18500-*******5.jpg


----------



## bullfrog

Thanks Eric for the quick response and guidance - appreciate it!

Also, what a sick combo!


----------



## DHart

*Fun with Legos!*

Here are some of my latest lego goodies... I am leaning heavily toward 1-cell lights these days.

A "TW4" - KL4 head on E1e body (the stock KL4 head kicks up a nice flood w/ a RCR123 rechargeable!)





P7 Goodness - Malkoff P7 head (turns the little 3P body into a tiny TIGER!)





Malkoff P7 in 6P head on FM 3P body w/Z59 Tailcap, powered by AW IMR16340 (pocketable TIGER!)





M30 lamp in 6P head with E2C adaptor on FM 1*16340 body















E1B w/Z68 tailcap (not much of a lego, but I like the change for candle mode)





TLS Head on E1e body (this head really rocks with a rechargeable RCR123!)


----------



## AzGB

I'm pretty sure your E1B has a Z68 on the end of it, and not a Z49. If memory serves, a Z49 is a C series clickie with a rubber guard surrounding the button, and a Z68 is the non-crenelated E2D tailcap included with the M600 Scout series.

Either way, I'm a fan of that configuration, since that's been my primary EDC since the light came out on the market.

_Very_ nice photography, by the way.


----------



## DHart

AzGB.... thank you so much! You are absolutely right.... my mistake, it's a Z68 tailcap for sure! I appreciate the correction. Your E1B looks well loved! They're nice lights for sure. And glad you like the pics. (My business is portrait and commercial photography.)


----------



## bigchelis

Here I go again. I been working on a lego Hope you guys like it.

It is a 3in Surefire 3P parts. It can house any P60 from as high as 700 lumens to 235 lumens with a M30. Currently; I just traded my P7 P60 but it still has plenty of usefullness with the Malkoff stuffed in it.

Okay folks now I know some of you have some sub 3in P60 Surefire Lego's out there. Please post some pictures...


----------



## soup_monger




----------



## herbicide

More lego == more fun.





[Torch food, Solarforce head w/ E2C adapter, Valiantco extender, E1 body and twisty switch, McTC, Lamp Assemblies]





[Lamps]





[E2C on the head]





[Early model? - w/ aftermarket dust...]





[Really bright, not as tight]





[90lm]


----------



## gallonoffuel

Just got the parts in for this this afternoon. Just in time too, since I'm going to a trade show this week that Surefire will be attending  Gotta see what they think of this, and try out an F04 and F05 on it.


----------



## bigchelis

gallonoffuel said:


> Just got the parts in for this this afternoon. Just in time too, since I'm going to a trade show this week that Surefire will be attending  Gotta see what they think of this, and try out an F04 and F05 on it.


 
The E1e w/ Defender bezel and clickie is amazing. It screams quality and with IMR incan drop-ins there is more potential than meets the eye. 

Very nice..


----------



## gallonoffuel

bigchelis said:


> The E1e w/ Defender bezel and clickie is amazing. It screams quality and with IMR incan drop-ins there is more potential than meets the eye.
> 
> Very nice..



Thank you for the compliments. I do wish I started with an E1B body though. I really prefer bezel-down clips, since most of the weight sits in the bezel end.


----------



## soup_monger

My E1E was too heavy with the stainless steel bezel.. so I picked up an $8 aluminium one and ground the "teeth" off it.

The bezel is still thick.. and long enough to protect the window.
















The TNC clicky is much higher quality than the Surefire one.... imo.


----------



## kungfumo

doesnt quite work but its still cool









This one works, I swaped the tail cap out for a m4 tail and plan to work on it some more later.


----------



## angelofwar

Here's my C4T, from my thread in the incan forum. C3 w/ A19, two combat grips, KT1 w/ MN60. SCHWEEEETTTTTT!!!:nana:


----------



## Blindasabat

Also from the "This doesn't quite work" department:




On the right next to an E1L for size comparison: Mini "Zero-P" with KL3 - battery not yet made to fit it. Unless a few CR2032's will work.


----------



## DM51

OK, how about this one? LOL


----------



## soup_monger

DM51 said:


> OK, how about this one? LOL



That one makes me laugh every time I see it.

There's no battery in there... right?


----------



## DHart

soup_monger said:


> That one makes me laugh every time I see it.
> t?



Yeah, me too.


----------



## kungfumo

Come on find a way to make it work


----------



## gswitter

I like how this one came together...






Ganp A19 head (reminiscent of 1st gen KL1), XR-E Q4 _engine_ from a McGizmo "dumb" Mule head, round L1 body, Oregon Shooter tail shroud.

I prefer the length of the L1 Cree body with this head, but I couldn't pass up the ano match with this round body.


----------



## Owen

Does the 2 stage tail still work on that?

Guess I need to read up on L1 mods. I'm considering a circuit board switch for Li-ion use, but don't want to lose the tail function. edit: missed that that was the older and longer body, and realize the circuitry's probably different
I kind of like the way that head looks-similar to when I put my Gen 1 KL1 on the L1 to see what it looked like.


----------



## gswitter

The functionality of the L1 is unchanged. This A19 head houses an LED module sans converter that McGizmo made for a run of L1 Mule heads.

I too always liked the original KL1 (even have a couple waiting to be modded), and when I saw this KL1-style A19 for sale, I had to jump on it. This light previously used a standard, Aleph 19 head with the same module. Everything swapped right over, and the ano match was a bonus.


----------



## Justin Case

Old E2 Executive with OpticsHQ/TLS M2E adapter and a SureFire M900A 1.62" head, MN11 lamp, 2xIMR16340 cells






Exploded view of the above light





SureFire 6P with SRTH, AW LED tower, 2S2P Cree MC-E, SOB1200 driver, 2xIMR16340 cells (G2 and E2 for size comparison)


----------



## euroken

Dhart,

As always, those are some beautiful pics. :thumbsup:

Just out of curiosity, how does TLS head look with e1B body? Seen plenty of e1e and TLS but curious with slightly larger e1B or even e1L.


----------



## DHart

euroken said:


> Dhart,
> 
> As always, those are some beautiful pics. :thumbsup:
> 
> Just out of curiosity, how does TLS head look with e1B body? Seen plenty of e1e and TLS but curious with slightly larger e1B or even e1L.



No pics with my E1B as yet... but here's how it looks on a Fivemega E- 16340 body:






Right now my TLS head is on a Fivemega 18500 E-body, but no pics yet.


----------



## euroken

Thank you Dhart!

I like e1e and TLS but that 16340 body seems a bit more proportional with the TLS head.


----------



## LIGHTSMAD

there are some real beauties here


----------



## DUQ

Surefire U2 + Surefire FM64 + one cell extender = U2F1 













I added a Lion Cub pocket clip. Works great!


----------



## allburger

G2 + AN-14 + 2xAW17670 + R2

I love this set up. It is by far my favorite light. Yes I have many more expensive but this will run for hours, still fit in pocket, and really throw some light. This is a great set up for my eo-9 as well.


----------



## Lunal_Tic

allburger said:


> G2 + AN-14 + 2xAW17670 + R2
> 
> I love this set up. It is by far my favorite light. Yes I have many more expensive but this will run for hours, still fit in pocket, and really throw some light. This is a great set up for my eo-9 as well.



I like that setup but where did you get the AN-14? I just looked on the Surefire site and didn't find it (edit: found it listed as AN14 no hyphen). I've been running a similar arrangement in my modded G3 but wouldn't mind the extra juice the larger cells would provide.

-LT


----------



## allburger

I have read so many threads where people on here say that 2x17670's will not fit in a g2 an14 combo. Now this is true, expect when you install an aftermarket switch such as the deal extreme 6p/g2 clicky and gut your switch and simply thread in the new clicky ( costs $3.50 by the way). 

I absolutely love this set up. This will be my summer light for camping, bonfires, or whatever. I have 4 g2's and i still grab this one because i know the batteries aren't going to die on me.


----------



## MarNav1

6P, M30, 17670/18650. Bulletproof, simple, and quite bright. Long running too.


----------



## herbicide

*resurrects thread*

Just showing off my two latest bits of lego - a Vitalgear FB3 and a fourth gen KL1 (which, if only I could get it open, would be soon putting out ~200lm...), which don't seem to play well together. *shrug*





[Vitalgear FB3, Valiantco extender, TnC E2C, Solarforce head w/cheapie ~500lm lamp on 2x 17670]





[KL1, E1 body, McTC, on AW 16340 - my current EDC]





[FB3, KL1 on 2x AA or 17500 (if they worked together...)]





[KL1, Valiantco extender, FB3 on 2x 17670 (doesn't work if I screw the tailcap on...)]





[KL1, Valiantco extender, FB3, on 2x 17670]





[FB3, Valiantco extender, TnC E2C, Solarforce head w/cheapie ~500lm lamp on 2x 17670 in hand]


----------



## Justin Case

SureFire KT1/KT2 TurboHead
AW Turbo Tower
Cree K-bin MC-E in 4P
GD1000 driver
FiveMega 3xC body
Accupower low self-discharge NiMH C cells


----------



## Lunal_Tic

Justin Case said:


> SureFire KT1/KT2 TurboHead
> AW Turbo Tower
> Cree MC-E in 4P
> FiveMega 3xC body
> Accupower low self-discharge NiMH C cells




I was wondering if someone had done that, very slick. You got beam shots posted somewhere? How's the heat dissipation?

-LT


----------



## Justin Case

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/232684

There is zero heat issue since the MC-E is very underdriven at 250mA per core using a GD1000 boost-buck driver. With the big capacity NiMH C cells, I should get around 5 hours of run time. I can also use alkalines if necessary.


----------



## Meganoggin

Hi Herbicide - great resurrection job - I love this thread!

Where did you get the Valiantco extender?

Thanks - Pete


----------



## bigchelis

Justin Case,

The KT fivemega 3C is awesome. With the MC-E you must be getting some great throw out of that quad emitter. Looks really good.

I have a secret build identical to yours, but with 3 "D" li-on cells in the works. It will be a KT-4 bezel instead. I hope to have it together in 3 weeks.

bigchelis


----------



## Justin Case

I didn't have the goal to build a thrower, and this light isn't one. I'm underdriving the MC-E using a GD1000, not direct driving the emitter. SSC P4 towers have better throw since they focus better for a given reflector. This build was all about low voltage, low power consumption, low heat, long run time, and flexibility to use NiMH or alkalines. Still, I'd estimate about 15% greater lumens output vs an SSC P4 U2xxxH-bin driven at 1000mA, while using about 10% less power than the P4. If I wanted to drive the 4P MC-E harder, I could have used a GD1500 to run the LED at 375mA per core. But then the MC-E would be burning about 4.8W instead of 3.1W, which is contrary to my goals for this build. The light draws 0.865A at the tailcap. With about 5Ah capacity for the Accupower NiMH C cells I'm using, that gives me a run time of almost 6 hours. I measured a hot spot of 5000 lux at 1 meter and a midpoint spill of 140 lux at 1 meter. The hot spot is brighter than my Malkoff M30 and my old Gladius, so the underdriven MC-E is no slouch. The spill is huge and also very bright. It puts the so-called SureFire L4 "wall of light" to shame (of course, this lego is also much bigger than the L4).


----------



## Blindasabat

My newest Legos

Nice mix of E & C series. Moddoo made an 18500 body with E-bezel threads for me. Here it is with a KX1 modded by Bigboy with an SOB1000 driver & Cree Q3 3A and a McC2S modded tailcap.





Here is my recently RE-Milky modded L1 bezel (2nd time to Milky for this one) with a K2 TFFC TVOD on an E1 body with a 60ohm McE2S. Runs 2.0 Amps on IMR16340 measured at 3.8V no load. Not tested fully charged to 4.2V yet.
(Ignore the non-SF SuperNova high-CRI in the pic below, the 18500 bodied light in the middle, the new K2 TFFC ML1 is on the right with it's new tape):


----------



## Justin Case

bigchelis said:


> Justin Case,
> I have a secret build identical to yours, but with 3 "D" li-on cells in the works. It will be a KT-4 bezel instead. I hope to have it together in 3 weeks.
> 
> bigchelis



I wouldn't expect a huge throw from this setup. The best I can get for hot spot lux is about 7400 lux at 1 meter using an SRTH. With a KT4, I get about 6500 lux using the same tower (2S2P K-bin MC-E driven by an SOB1000 at 500mA per core). In comparison, I get about 14,000 lux at 1 meter for a tower with an SSC P4 U2SWOH-bin driven by an SOB1000.


----------



## soup_monger

Here is my updated collection of Surefire's.

The M2 has gone to a good home.


----------



## Search

I probably wont have to take a picture as mine isn't very complex like the rest.

I've got a Single-Mode E2DL and an E1B.

I swapped tail caps so the E1B wasn't as easy to turn on (EDC, don't want it on in my pocket) and the E2DL was easier to turn on under stress as it can be used as a backup tactical light.

About as interesting as my lego is


----------



## SUREFIRED

Search said:


> I probably wont have to take a picture as mine isn't very complex like the rest.
> 
> I've got a Single-Mode E2DL and an E1B.
> 
> I swapped tail caps so the E1B wasn't as easy to turn on (EDC, don't want it on in my pocket) and the E2DL was easier to turn on under stress as it can be used as a backup tactical light.
> 
> About as interesting as my lego is



I love the E1B with my E2Ds tailcap also. Increases grip, protects the button from being turned on in pocket, and just plain looks cool.


----------



## Search

SUREFIRED said:


> I love the E1B with my E2Ds tailcap also. Increases grip, protects the button from being turned on in pocket, and just plain looks cool.



+1

Once I got passed the VERY slight color difference and the fact that the tailcap is the only part with knurling, I was very pleased.

My E2DL works as a backup duty light if need be, so the more tactical tailcap is a plus.


----------



## Justin Case

I just received a 2C FiveMega body and moved the KT1/MC-E/GD1000 to that body. The overall length is shorter than a 2C Maglite. For the 3C FM body, I attached a 6P anti-roll bezel (Pyrex window) and a modified DX11836 P60 drop-in. I removed the stock driver from the DX11836 and replaced it with a 3xAMC7135 single mode driver. When driven by 3xC Accupower NiMH cells, I measured 1.05A current draw at the tail. For the MC-E tower on the 2C FM body, it is now running in boost mode and has the same output it did in buck mode on the 3C body.


----------



## soup_monger

I finally managed to score an SW02 for my WA1111 blaster.


----------



## Meganoggin

soup_monger said:


> I finally managed to score an SW02 for my WA1111 blaster.



Mean looking - I like it! :devil:


----------



## Blindasabat

OK, somebody actually got the one on the right to work in the Homemade & Modified forum. It is a two-piece Solarforce L2 body.


Blindasabat said:


> Also from the "This doesn't quite work" department:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right next to an E1L for size comparison: Mini "Zero-P" with KL3 - battery not yet made to fit it. Unless a few CR2032's will work.


----------



## Meganoggin

:bump:

Finally got my TLS head....... little Lego


----------



## Monocrom

Yeah, those TLS heads kick @$$! 

I've got a couple of the E2 versions. Nice combo of flood & throw. 

I thought about getting a Surefire 3P clone. Clone as in, z41 tailcap and 6P bezel along with either a Solarforce, or FM custom body. But since money is a bit tight, I think I'll just get an E1 TLS head and use that on my E1E.

*Edit:*

Who am I kidding. I'll likely get the 3P clone soon too.


----------



## DHart

Monocrom said:


> Yeah, those TLS heads kick @$$!
> 
> I've got a couple of the E2 versions. Nice combo of flood & throw.
> 
> I thought about getting a Surefire 3P clone. Clone as in, z41 tailcap and 6P bezel along with either a Solarforce, or FM custom body. But since money is a bit tight, I think I'll just get an E1 TLS head and use that on my E1E.



Monocrom.. have you thought about checking these out... I think there's a good chance the heads on these may be about the same if not the same as the TLS heads that sell for $80 here. Might well be worth the twenty some odd dollars to find out... they are made by TLS!

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=7339

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=7337


----------



## Monocrom

Thanks for the links, DHart. But that site has gotten one too many Jeers over at the MarketPlace. Honestly, it's gotten so bad, I'd rather pay the extra over at Optics HQ. Also, something about that deal that just seems too good to be true.


----------



## DHart

Monocrom said:


> Thanks for the links, DHart. But that site has gotten one too many Jeers over at the MarketPlace. Honestly, it's gotten so bad, I'd rather pay the extra over at Optics HQ. Also, something about that deal that just seems too good to be true.



I'd have to say that I haven't brought myself to buy anything from Kai myself... I'm leery of them also... though I have had a number of excellent purchases with DX. I still think there's a decent chance of getting a great head for a very low price, if one is willing to skate out closer to the thin ice.


----------



## Monocrom

DHart said:


> I'd have to say that I haven't brought myself to buy anything from Kai myself... I'm leery of them also... though I have had a number of excellent purchases with DX. I still think there's a decent chance of getting a great head for a very low price, if one is willing to skate out closer to the thin ice.


 
A very good point. However, for personal reasons, I'll play in the house located down the street from the frozen lake.


----------



## QtrHorse

Good find DHart,

I will be the guinea pig and order one. Compared to the TLS price, this is one heck of a deal. 



DHart said:


> Monocrom.. have you thought about checking these out... I think there's a good chance the heads on these may be about the same if not the same as the TLS heads that sell for $80 here. Might well be worth the twenty some odd dollars to find out... they are made by TLS!
> 
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=7339
> 
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=7337


----------



## DHart

QtrHorse said:


> Good find DHart,
> 
> I will be the guinea pig and order one. Compared to the TLS price, this is one heck of a deal.



YEAH! QtrHorse :twothumbs Way to go, my friend. Please do report back... if these lights do use the same TLS head, that would be AWESOME!


----------



## ElectronGuru

Got a little carried away today:








C2D


----------



## Owen

ElectronGuru said:


> C2D


Looks great:thumbsup:


edit:
Meganoggin,
Need to edit that quote(hit enter between the [/img]


----------



## Meganoggin

Owen said:


> Meganoggin,
> Need to edit that quote(hit enter between the [/img] brackets), so it's not screwing up the whole page.[/QUOTE]
> 
> Thanks for the heads up Owen, think I have sorted it.
> 
> Pete :twothumbs


----------



## Meganoggin

What do you think about this one?







:devil:


----------



## bigchelis

Meganoggin said:


> What do you think about this one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :devil:


 


Folks, we have a winner. How does it feel in the front pocket?:nana:


----------



## Meganoggin

bigchelis said:


> Folks, we have a winner. How does it feel in the front pocket?:nana:



Pretty chunky! A bit like a hand grenade  either way up it wont stay in or feel comfortable...... Best to just keep it in the hand.


----------



## gswitter

Pshaw!

Millennium Turbohead w/CR2 twisty body...





And it works...


----------



## Meganoggin

So does mine.... really needs a rechargable (this is with a primary)


----------



## Illum

Blindasabat said:


>



Surefir?

Sounds like a tree company


----------



## QtrHorse

Where did you get that what looks like a C to M or E to M adapter? Is that a GID blue or green oring? If it is blue, where did you get that from?

That light looks just a tad too large to be pocketable.



Meganoggin said:


> What do you think about this one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :devil:


----------



## Meganoggin

QtrHorse said:


> Where did you get that what looks like a C to M or E to M adapter? Is that a GID blue or green oring? If it is blue, where did you get that from?
> 
> That light looks just a tad too large to be pocketable.



QtrHorse it has a TLS E2C stacked with a TLS C2M (comes with a brass spacer to take up the slack) The O ring is a blue / green job from KD.

You're right - too chunky for pockets :sick2:


----------



## QtrHorse

DHart said:


> YEAH! QtrHorse :twothumbs Way to go, my friend. Please do report back... if these lights do use the same TLS head, that would be AWESOME!


 
I placed my order tonight. I will let you know when it gets here.

I'm sad to see that they no longer offer the M3T type light any longer. It was also very reasonably pricedcompared to the TLS counter part. I wonder if OptiqsHQ had anything to do with that.


----------



## mdocod

playing lego is just too much fun


----------



## Meganoggin

QtrHorse said:


> I placed my order tonight. I will let you know when it gets here.
> 
> I'm sad to see that they no longer offer the M3T type light any longer. It was also very reasonably pricedcompared to the TLS counter part. I wonder if OptiqsHQ had anything to do with that.



The Turbohead part from OpticsHq is Type III anodized, but the complete TLS T5 flashlight is Type II anodized - that should explain at least some of the price difference (the rest being duty and tax I would assume).

:shrug:


----------



## Justin Case

bigchelis said:


> Justin Case,
> 
> The KT fivemega 3C is awesome. With the MC-E you must be getting some great throw out of that quad emitter. Looks really good.
> 
> I have a secret build identical to yours, but with 3 "D" li-on cells in the works. It will be a KT-4 bezel instead. I hope to have it together in 3 weeks.
> 
> bigchelis



What is the status of this secret build? You might check out this post of mine containing some thermocouple measurements of various AW LED Turbo Towers in the KT1 and KT4 THs, and this post measuring hot spot lux vs time for the 4P MC-E/GD1000 tower.


----------



## Justin Case

Top: FiveMega 2xC body, KT1 TH
Middle: FiveMega 2xIMR-C body, KT1 TH
Bottom: FiveMega 1xIMR-C body, SF 6P bezel





Top: FiveMega 1xIMR-C body, KT1 TH
Bottom: Standard SF 6P


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic

*This should be a sticky!!*


----------



## Meganoggin

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> *This should be a sticky!!*



+1 Good call :thumbsup:


----------



## DHart

Meganoggin said:


> The Turbohead part from OpticsHq is Type III anodized, but the complete TLS T5 flashlight is Type II anodized - that should explain at least some of the price difference (the rest being duty and tax I would assume).



Ah... good to know. Does the head design, emitter, and output appear to be about the same? If so, the TLS complete flashlights would be a great bargain, even with Type II ano.


----------



## alantch

My most recent lego.








U2A with A21 adaptor

Some of my previous setups


----------



## Meganoggin

DHart said:


> Ah... good to know. Does the head design, emitter, and output appear to be about the same? If so, the TLS complete flashlights would be a great bargain, even with Type II ano.



Yes the design is the same, but I have some 'specials' with R2 and MC-E emitters. The original was with a Q5. They all have forward clicky's and 2 or 3 stage drivers.... I will have a bunch of them in a few weeks time :devil:


----------



## Bushman5

is there a list of all the SF lights that can be "lego'ed"? 

Ie; a cross compatibility chart ?

whats the most lego'able surefire light? 

this looks like fun and i want to start! :twothumbs


----------



## DHart

Meganoggin said:


> Yes the design is the same, but I have some 'specials' with R2 and MC-E emitters. The original was with a Q5. They all have forward clicky's and 2 or 3 stage drivers.... I will have a bunch of them in a few weeks time :devil:



Are you getting these from KD?


----------



## Meganoggin

DHart said:


> Are you getting these from KD?


No KD have stopped selling them - I have gone direct to the manufacturer.

So far I am very impressed, not quite Surefire quality machining, but very good for the price. I will try to keep you guys posted as I get more info :naughty:


----------



## DHart

Meganoggin said:


> No KD have stopped selling them - I have gone direct to the manufacturer.
> 
> So far I am very impressed, not quite Surefire quality machining, but very good for the price. I will try to keep you guys posted as I get more info :naughty:



Hey... please tell us how to order TLS directly from the manufacturer.

TLS makes great stuff - much of it Surefire E-series compatible! I love the TLS Q5 head on my various E-series bodies... takes the E-series lights to a comparable performance level of the larger lights made by all the hot current light manufacturers.


----------



## angelofwar

Bushman5 said:


> is there a list of all the SF lights that can be "lego'ed"?
> 
> Ie; a cross compatibility chart ?
> 
> whats the most lego'able surefire light?
> 
> this looks like fun and i want to start! :twothumbs


 
Probably the 6P...get an A19, you have any 3 cell set-up:

-Add a A19, you have a 9P
-Add a combat ring, you have a C3
-Add a turbo head to either, you have a 9T, or an M3T
Add another A19 and a turbo head, you have a "Suburban M4"
Add an A14, you have any rechargeable 2-Cell option
Get an A21, and turn it into a 9 or 12 volt weapon light, regualr, or turbo.

And all while keeping it MATCHING and STOCK!

With a 6P, two A19's, and a KT1 (BK), you can run the following SF LA's:

P60
P61
P90
P91
N1
N2/MN15
MN16
MN60
MN61
P60L
KL5A's
KL3

Did I miss any???


----------



## cenz

My thrower Lego ^^


----------



## angelofwar

One of the best Lego's I've assembled...it's kinda like a C9, if you will...






Take 1 ea. 6P, add the "Trigger Combat Ring" where the T/C goes, add an A19 to that, and a TC. The combat ring fits in almost the same location as the ring on the C2/C3. Needless to say, this is the one that I keep in my safe with my S&W 40...

Not the best picture, but if you have the parts, try it, and you'll see what I'm talking about.


----------



## Sgt. LED

Is that a G2 head?


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic

Sgt. LED said:


> Is that a G2 head?


It looks like. Nice way of cooking an LED...


----------



## angelofwar

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> It looks like. Nice way of cooking an LED...


 
Not sure if the G2have it yet, but that's the latest hexagonal nitrolon head from a G3 I bought when I was in Iraq. I'm using a P90 in it, and it has the improved lens, so no chance of melting the lens...and this is an Incan only set-up, unless I put a regualr 6/9P bezel on it. But since i only have 1 malkoff (so far), I use this for my "stand-by/shtf light", and my malkoff with my EDC.


----------



## Crenshaw

Something that is unique as far as i know











If above is a C2D, mine can be....L1D (sounds familier....lol)

Two modes with ANY P60 dropin.

Thats a G&P head.i actually intend to use it with a C2(on loan to a friend-flashaholic) head, and looking into either an M30 or ill be making my own dropin. Also, ill be using it with my Dx mce drop in when it comes. 

Crenshaw


----------



## Lunal_Tic

Some legos from four cells down to single celled lights.





The black tailcap end pieces are Nekomane Delrin clickie protectors, they've come in really handy on the Z57s.

-LT


----------



## Owen

What kind of bodies are those on the left?!?

Here's my latest, an Aleph 2x123 body, McTC w/McClicky, and E2DL bezel. Actually keeping the TIR optic in this one...and maybe even the stock emitter for awhile


----------



## Justin Case

I got tired of looking at this junk in my KL4 head:





So, I opened up the KL4 and transplanted a 2S2P MC-E (TW4 configuration using an E1L body and Aleph flattop tailcap with McE2S):


----------



## Lunal_Tic

Owen said:


> What kind of bodies are those on the left?!?



Those are Balrog Bodies and are what pushed me over the edge from being a lurker to a member back in 2004. He didn't have an email listed so I could only order via forum post and PM. The first one on the left is a BE4, 4 cell E series on both ends but I'm using an E2C adapter to use a C series head. The "natural" anodize came out really light as you can see but that never bothered me much. They were my introduction to Surefire Lego.

-LT


----------



## Owen

Thank you. I'm familiar with them, just didn't recognize them for some reason. Guess I was hoping it was something currently available somewhere:sigh:
Another maker like Fivemega should get into these, since apparently noone else is making longer bodies that are E series compatible at both ends.


----------



## QtrHorse

DHart said:


> YEAH! QtrHorse :twothumbs Way to go, my friend. Please do report back... if these lights do use the same TLS head, that would be AWESOME!


 

I received my package today from Kaidomain. 

I don't have a TLS head from Opticshq.com to compare it to but it looks the same as what they offer and what you took pictures of. It has TLS on the bezel as well. The body is junk and does not match the head but the head is perfect. It has a nice satin finish to it, not quite matte or gloss. 

Great deal for the price if you ask me. 

I messed with it a little at lunch. The pill comes out and a deerlight type pill screws right in. I could not get it to light up though. I think it is a grounding/ spring issue. The T1 light has a outer compression spring and copper type oring that I believe makes contact with the body. I removed the larger outer spring from all my other pills and need to re-install one to see if they will work. 

The good part about this is that one of Nailbenders pills may work in this reflector and that would make for a great little light. I currently have the head mounted to a Vital Gear B1 body.

I will try to take some good close-up pictures tonight.


----------



## DHart

The TLS head for use on E-bodies has a silver colored spring attached to the center of the pill and two leaf-type springs - one on each side - on the circumference of the pill to contact the E-body. Looking forward to your pics!


I ordered a T1 myself last week... looking forward to checking it out.


----------



## QtrHorse

Dhart,

Can you post a picture of the backside of your TLS bezel/ pill that you have?

It took about two weeks to get mine it from Kaidomain. It does not come with the box that it shows to on the site or the extra switch (not sure if it's supposed to be extra or just showing you what it looks like) and it was black even though the picture looks to be natural.

I'm not sure if you noticed but they also sell the Fire kylin M3T complete light now for a reasonable price. The head does not look to match the body, it looks brown compaired to the natural color of the body.

I may order one of them as well.


----------



## DHart

OK... TLS Head for E-series bodies.


----------



## QtrHorse

As promised, first the Lego. It's not a Surefire Lego at the moment but it will be. I could not find my black E1 body. 

I also included a link to a new thread that has a lot more pictures of the actual internals of the T1/ TLS head. I did not want to clutter up this thread. Link below the picture.







T1/ TLS Kaidomain Light


----------



## DHart

QtrHorse said:


> As promised, first the Lego.




QtrHorse... how does the head compare to the pics of my TLS head?

And how does she ride?


----------



## QtrHorse

I included a link to a new thread with more pictures in the post above yours. 

She rides well.

My head has the same spring as yours but it does not have those leaf type springs. It has a larger spring around the pill and then what looks like a washer with a lip on it that is used instead of those leaf springs.


----------



## Justin Case

My first gen OpticsHQ/TLS TX2 does not have those leaf springs either.











From the photos, it doesn't look like the later gen TX2 heads have any o-ring seals under the glass window. I got a lot of junk infiltrating into my TX2, so I disassembled the head, cleaned it, and put in an o-ring under the glass.


----------



## QtrHorse

This one does not have a o-ring behind the glass either.


----------



## Justin Case

If you pocket carry the TLS, I would suggest installing an o-ring. My TX2 looked like one of those Christmas paperweights with the snowstorm flakes inside that you shake and then watch the flakes settle. In my case, at least the junk adhered to whatever surface they landed on instead of flying about.


----------



## Monocrom

Justin Case said:


> If you pocket carry the TLS, I would suggest installing an o-ring. My TX2 looked like one of those Christmas paperweights with the snowstorm flakes inside that you shake and then watch the flakes settle. In my case, at least the junk adhered to whatever surface they landed on instead of flying about.


 
I've got the same issue, only to a lesser degree. My main EDC light is a black Surefire E2E w/ E2D tailcap, and a single-output TLS head (without scallops). All black, good combination of throw and flood. Every now & then, I take the head apart and clean off the dust that is attracted to the inside of the lens like a bum to a bottle of Jack. 

Requires a bit more maintenance than a Surefire KX2C head. But much less expensive, and with useful sidespill.

Despite the dust that gets inside, the head is capable of performing in a heavy downpour. (Found that out, during a couple of heavy downpours). 

Like it so much that I made sure to put together two such Surefire E2E / TLS lights. If I lose my main EDC, got another one similar to it; waiting at home.


----------



## Meganoggin

QtrHorse said:


> My head has the same spring as yours but it does not have those leaf type springs. It has a larger spring around the pill and then what looks like a washer with a lip on it that is used instead of those leaf springs.



My two are the same (one direct from TLS and one from KD) no O rings at the window either. Curiously the crenilated bezels are slightly different, one is slightly longer by no more than 1mm.

Both work great with my E1e body / switch


----------



## DHart

Meganoggin said:


> My two are the same (one direct from TLS and one from KD) no O rings at the window either. Curiously the crenilated bezels are slightly different, one is slightly longer by no more than 1mm.
> 
> Both work great with my E1e body / switch



Meganoggin.... good to hear!

How do you buy directly from TLS? Can you give us a link?


----------



## QtrHorse

DHart said:


> Meganoggin.... good to hear!
> 
> How do you buy directly from TLS? Can you give us a link?


 
I'm guessing he received it as a sample but if not, I would like to know how to buy direct as well.:wave:

Good to hear that they are the same from either source. I'm a little dissapointed that the mark-up is so high from Opticshq but the worth of something is measured by what people will pay for that said item.


----------



## DHart

QtrHorse said:


> I'm guessing he received it as a sample but if not, I would like to know how to buy direct as well.:wave:
> 
> Good to hear that they are the same from either source. I'm a little dissapointed that the mark-up is so high from Opticshq but the worth of something is measured by what people will pay for that said item.



All businesses have to charge enough to cover all expenses and then a reasonable amount for profit. OpticsHQ is probably pricing reasonably for the costs they have to cover to keep their doors open and the profit they desire. That said, if a relatively comparable head can be obtained elsewhere for a 1/4 of the price, that's ok with me too!  Looking forward to getting my KD T1 and checking out that head!


----------



## QtrHorse

That came accross incorrectly. 

I would love to get those types of margins in the industry I work in but our customers and competition dictate a much lower margin. We import items from China and Korea. The initial puchasing costs look great until you figure in import fees, shipping and etc.. There is always the great customer service and quick ship times that Opticshq offer that add an additional value to the product.


----------



## DHart

QtrHorse said:


> That came accross incorrectly.
> 
> I would love to get those types of margins in the industry I work in but our customers and competition dictate a much lower margin. We import items from China and Korea. The initial puchasing costs look great until you figure in import fees, shipping and etc.. There is always the great customer service and quick ship times that Opticshq offer that add an additional value to the product.



QtrHorse.... I gotcha... totally understood.


----------



## Meganoggin

DHart said:


> Meganoggin.... good to hear!
> 
> How do you buy directly from TLS? Can you give us a link?



TLS won't deal direct for retail sales, I am negotiating with them to become a dealer in the UK. KD must buy in massive quantities, because the price i have been offered is the same that KD retails for the T1!

QtrHorse - you are right, once you have factored in the duty and tax it is not quite the deal you at first think...:shrug:


----------



## Justin Case

For my OpticsHQ/TLS TX2, I measured the following:

- 1xAW16340, E1L body, old E2 Executive twisty tailcap: 6400 lux hot spot at 1 meter. 0.62A tail current draw

- 2xIMR16340, E2 Executive body and twisty tailcap: 8200 lux hot spot at 1 meter, 0.54A tail current draw

I also put the TX2 on my bench power supply. At 3.8V in, I got 0.65A in, which corresponds to the 1xAW16340 case fairly well. At 8V in, I got 0.52A in, which also seems to match the 2xIMR16340 case reasonably well.

Based on the bench power supply data, the TX2 head draws about 4W of power when running in regulation. The driver reaches full regulation at about 4V in.


----------



## Blindasabat

Only sort of.. I have a milky L1 17500 body that can run a VG F2 head with a P60 drop-in. All I have is an M60W. I'll snap a picture if I can.


Crenshaw said:


> Something that is unique as far as i know


----------



## Crenshaw

Blindasabat said:


> Only sort of.. I have a milky L1 17500 body that can run a VG F2 head with a P60 drop-in. All I have is an M60W. I'll snap a picture if I can.


Oooo, so there ARE other people out there with modified L1 bodies. 

Crenshaw


----------



## milkyspit

Crenshaw said:


> Oooo, so there ARE other people out there with modified L1 bodies.
> 
> Crenshaw



Only a few like yours, Crenshaw... but going farther back, one of my early mods, the Optimator, used a combination of KL3 rev1 head with bored-out L1 or L2 four-flats body. Here are photos of each...


----------



## Sgt. LED

Hey Ol' bloody finger can still type huh? LOL





I like the looks of those KL3's


----------



## Meganoggin

Here we go again!






Anyone got some more?


----------



## Justin Case

SureFire E2 Executive host with twisty tailcap, OpticsHQ E2M adapter, SureFire Z46 bezel, and SureFire MN11 lamp assembly driven by 2xIMR16340.


----------



## Meganoggin

Fantastic :thumbsup: Keep them coming - I need some more ideas!!!!


----------



## Justin Case

12ZM with SRTH vs SF 3P with T-62 TH






The same 12ZM with SRTH vs. SF L4 (and Aleph flattop tailcap) with T-62 TH





SF 6Z body with SRTH, a different 12ZM with T-62 TH, and a 12ZM body with the 6Z bezel


----------



## Meganoggin

Awesome - keep on swapping and messing till they work and post 'em!


----------



## cenz

um.. there is mine on my bed...






Top left: N62 / FM3X(HAIII) / FM2x26500 / LF"C-M" neck / McClicky
Top right: WA1111 / FM2x26500 / 3"TH(T2) / AW softstart

from left to right:

WA1185 /SRTH / FM2x18650 / extender(SolarFor..) / AW softstart;
HO-M6R /SRTH / L2 body / 2 extenders(SolarFor..) / Z41;
HO-M3T /SRTH / 12ZM body / vintage tailcap;
MN16 / KT2 / FM1x18650 / extender(SolarFor..) / Z41;
IMR-9 / 6P bezel / UF C1 body / 2 A19s(bored) / vintage tailcap;
LF 3.7 R2 special / 6P bezel / UF C1 body / stock tailcap;


----------



## Superdave

Here are 2 fun lego lights..

Z2 with a C to M, M to D and a Megalennium head..






and the same setup except on a LU60 adapter with a modified 1 cell extender. 







I had the N1 lamp in both, the spring on my tailcap is crushed so i couldn't get good battery contact though.


----------



## Meganoggin

Good work Superdave - that's mental :twothumbs


----------



## DHart

QtrHorse said:


> As promised, first the Lego. It's not a Surefire Lego at the moment but it will be. I could not find my black E1 body.
> 
> I also included a link to a new thread that has a lot more pictures of the actual internals of the T1/ TLS head. I did not want to clutter up this thread. Link below the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> T1/ TLS Kaidomain Light



QtrHorse... My KD TLS T1 flashlight arrived today. 

The $29 TLS T1 Q5 head appears nearly identical (with some slight variations) to the Optics HQ TLS head I bought for $80. Output as measured in ceiling bounce test is identical and beam is pretty much a dead ringer as well. I think it's a great buy to upgrade a Surefire E-body to a Q5 LED for $29.

Here are pics showing my Optics HQ TLS head on a Fivemega 18500 body and the KD TLS T1 head on a Surefire E1e body.





















Edited to add... it's become pretty clear to me that upgrading an E body to LED, while fun and interesting, the result really has a tough time competing with such lights as Quark 123 or Quark AA, which are much smaller, brighter, offer a huge range of variable output levels, and a couple of other output features... for less expenditure. 

I've done a lot of tweaks and legoing with Surefire 6P, 3P, and E lights and honestly, rarely use them now that I have acquired a NiteCore D10 R2, several Quarks, LF3XT, LF2XT, two L-Mini IIs, and Jet I Pro. Not that the Surefires aren't great lights, but widely variable output levels, ability to run with a wider variety of cell types, lower pricing, higher highs, lower lows, and typically smaller form factors all combine to make for some very compelling flashlights overall vs. Surefires. I still respect and enjoy the Surefires and play with them occasionally, but some of the more recent flashlight designs really have won me over.

In spite of that.... I'm glad I got this $29 TLS head for my E1e. I had been running a floody KL4 head on this E1e and found the heat issue a little bothersome... this TLS Q5 head is bigger than the KL4, of course, but really offers a more useable light, in my view.. especially for the price.


----------



## Meganoggin

You raise some good points there DHart. I actually like the heft of the smaller Surefire lights and find them 'good in the hand' if you know what I mean.

I tend to use smaller lights in the summer and revert back to big monster lego's for the winter, when carrying them about in a big jacket pocket is less of a chore.

BTW great photography as usual :devil:


----------



## angelofwar

I'll have the most "versatile" lego here in a few day's, and post a some pic's...it uses a 6P/A19/A20...


----------



## DaFABRICATA

Going through photobucket and realized I should add these to this thread.


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic

That's some pretty serious poop son!!


----------



## gswitter

DaFABRICATA said:


>


Is this functional (if so, how 'bout some details), or just a Lego creation?


----------



## Meganoggin

DaFab & your Lego army :bow: Come on guys there must be more....


----------



## Blindasabat

Defab has the best and most complete SF collection I have ever had the good fortune to see. 
Is that an A2 bezel on an M1 body?


----------



## csshih

DaFABRICATA said:


>




uh....what the bird?
- I want one! -


----------



## DimeRazorback

I love Surefire Lego!

I gotta get some myself :devil:


:thumbsup:


----------



## Monocrom

csshih said:


> uh....what the bird?
> - I want one! -


 
The bird or the light?

Light looks to be a Surefire E1E, (head, tailcap, and clip) but with an E1B body.


----------



## alantch

Does this qualify as an SF lego?


----------



## Monocrom

alantch said:


> Does this qualify as an SF lego?


 
LOL

No! :nana:


----------



## Meganoggin

Monocrom said:


> LOL
> 
> No! :nana:



Mega-Lego-nium???????


----------



## Monocrom

Meganoggin said:


> Mega-Lego-nium???????


 
Yes! :twothumbs


----------



## QtrHorse

Monocrom said:


> LOL
> 
> No! :nana:


 
What about this one? It uses a genuine SF C to M adapter.


----------



## Monocrom

QtrHorse said:


> What about this one? It uses a genuine SF C to M adapter...


 
Yup, that's good enough to count.


----------



## QtrHorse

Monocrom said:


> Yup, that's good enough to count.


 
:twothumbs I am finally able to contribute to this thread.:twothumbs


----------



## angelofwar

I feel the need to start a thread titled "Stock SF lego's...let's see them"...but then again, I have OCD to the umpteenth degree...


----------



## brighterisbetter

gswitter said:


> Is this functional (if so, how 'bout some details), or just a Lego creation?



+1


----------



## cenz

Just my little sharing...

I use N62 bulb with FM3X and 2xFM26500(IMR-C), it seems that 2 cells are able to fully power the 3.7A bulb, now it really performs 500+ lumens in rechargeable format.

besides, FM3X gives an impressive throw with N62, sharp parallel beam, strong and clean, it is better than wa1111 and 5761.

Although N62 is a type of collection item and not practical, but I could not resist to use it to play with the turbohead, it is a quite interesting incan. lego for throw.


----------



## jp2515




----------



## Meganoggin

Nice C2 - really digging the extender / grip ring


----------



## SarcoBlaster

*SureFire lego question*

So I was really bored just now and decided to see if the head on my L1 (Cree) would fit on an L4 or LX2 body, and was pleasantly surprised to find that it did. The output on the L1 head is quite a bit higher when it is used on the L4 and LX2 bodies, and I get the dual output when it is used on the LX2 body.

That having been said, is it safe in the long run? I have no clue whether it is being overdriven or if it's regulated on either the L4 or LX2 bodies.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## Viper715

*Re: SureFire lego question*

The Driver for the L1 Cree is in the body so it is being ran in direct drive if I am not mistaken. It will not be regulated and may burn up because of this. I ran my L1 on a E1 body with an RCR at 3.7v but 6v may be too much. but I am by all means not all knowing and may be full of huey and could work just fine. Lets see if more informed people way in here.


----------



## angelofwar

*Re: SureFire lego question*

I did extensive research on this, and it's not good...it will make your L1 head brighter, but will eventually burn it up...sooner rather than later...the only e-Series head safe one to use with 1 or 2 cell's is the old KL1 and the KL4.


----------



## SarcoBlaster

*Re: SureFire lego question*

I was afraid it wasn't the best idea. Thanks for the info!


----------



## angelofwar

*Re: SureFire lego question*

However, if you prefer the 2 cell form factor, you can always get a Z20 battery spacer, and still safely use it your L1 head on a 2 cell body.


----------



## DM51

*Re: SureFire lego question*

There's already a well-established thread about Surefire Lego, so I'm merging this one into it.


----------



## angelofwar

angelofwar said:


> I'll have the most "versatile" lego here in a few day's, and post a some pic's...it uses a 6P/A19/A20...


 
Here it is...a 6Z w/ A19 and an A20 with a Malkoff M60F

How it's carried (6Z w/ A19 and A20):






Or 3 Cells (6Z + A19) for longer runtime:







Or 2 cells, (Stock 6Z) if that's all you have...






The good thing about the 6Z is it can be mounted to an M78 or an M79 mount, due to the cut down body...talk about versatility!


----------



## mudman cj

You can run the L1 head on a two cell body if you use a 17670 cell. Of course, the body has to accept a 17mm battery or you have to convince it to do so. :devil: This will overdrive the LED a little, depending upon the Vf of the particular LED it will likely be around 1.2A give or take. This is not a terrible thing to do to a cool white Cree or a Lux III and it will not burn up.


----------



## ElectronGuru

Having a little fun with the new M2:


----------



## Jumi

Does this fit the category?
C2 only for size reference.









:naughty:

Juha


----------



## brighterisbetter

So I'm wanting to mate an M2 head to a Kroma/U2 body. What is the best option to do this and maintain some type of color match? Aren't all LU60 adapters HA and not available in black? And isn't the LU60A for mating an E-series body to a C-series head?

Thanks for any advice. Obviously Kroma/U2 bodies only come in black but M2 heads come in either black or natural. I'm thinking no matter which route I go there'll be some mismatch (ie. black head, black body, natural adapter)


----------



## angelofwar

brighterisbetter said:


> So I'm wanting to mate an M2 head to a Kroma/U2 body. What is the best option to do this and maintain some type of color match? Aren't all LU60 adapters HA and not available in black? And isn't the LU60A for mating an E-series body to a C-series head?
> 
> Thanks for any advice. Obviously Kroma/U2 bodies only come in black but M2 heads come in either black or natural. I'm thinking no matter which route I go there'll be some mismatch (ie. black head, black body, natural adapter)


 
The LU60A's (?) that come with the scout light's are black HA, and will work.


----------



## gswitter

angelofwar said:


> The LU60A's (?) that come with the scout light's are black HA, and will work.


The LU60A is threaded for E-series bodies, not K2/U2 bodies.

The LU60 adapter is threaded for the K2/U2 and the like.


----------



## brighterisbetter

Whoops, gswitter beat me to it. So I take it that the regular LU60 isn't available in HA-BK then right?


----------



## Superdave

Nope, but you could have it re-anodized. 


I did my 9P body a few weeks ago and it came out pretty good. 


If you want the LU60 to fit anything other than the Surefire or Incan lamps it'll need to be bored out. I took a stepper bit to mine and now it fits the aftermarket LED dropins. They won't work with 18650 batteries though.. unless you bore out the other side.


----------



## Solscud007

I dunno if any one has tried this lego. I picked up a display 8NX for $50. After researching I found out there is very little potential for it. So I played with the LA and figured it could work with my G2Z. I forced the head onto the G2Z body. using the big spring from an old P60 bulb, and a spacer I got the G2Z-8NX hybrid to work with a 17500.

I need to work on my spacer so that I can squeeze two primaries in. right now the spacer is too long.


----------



## chrisWELD

DaFABRICATA said:


>




DaFAB,

amazing photos!

What is this one btw?

Cheers!

Chris


----------



## Solscud007

That is a L72 laser with A21 adapter and SW01 tailcap.


----------



## chrisWELD

^^ thanks Solscud007

Neat and potent looking little thing it is. A flashlight with a similar chunky but short form factor would be interesting - SW01 slim, 1x123, short milky modded head...


----------



## mdocod




----------



## KeyGrip

Very nice, what are your impressions of it?


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic

ElectronGuru said:


> Having a little fun with the new M2:


That's a fantastic pic of a fantastic set of lights.

Cheers.


----------



## Monocrom

Very nice, mdocod. :thumbsup:

Any initial thoughts / impressions of the Lumens Factory P7 M-series head?


----------



## ElectronGuru

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> That's a fantastic pic of a fantastic set of lights.



Thanks!

Just got my first G2. Decided to play around:


----------



## Monocrom

ElectronGuru said:


> Just got my first G2. Decided to play around...


 
Damn! That's a surprisingly good-looking lego. :huh:


----------



## brighterisbetter

Monocrom said:


> Damn! That's a surprisingly good-looking lego. :huh:


+1 I'm really liking the black M2 head lately. It's got a certain pizazz to it.


----------



## mdocod

KeyGrip said:


> Very nice, what are your impressions of it?



Not bad at all really...


----------



## sween1911

I'll throw in my SF Lego . . .





Z32 + P60 + L30 adaptor + cut-down A19 + Lighthound Detonator + Standard LOTC


----------



## angelofwar

I like the older M2-BK head (L60 for the scoutlight)...wish i never sold it...


----------



## ElectronGuru

Monocrom said:


> Damn! That's a surprisingly good-looking lego. :huh:





brighterisbetter said:


> +1 I'm really liking the black M2 head lately. It's got a certain pizazz to it.





angelofwar said:


> I like the older M2-BK head (L60 for the scoutlight)...wish i never sold it...



Yea, its funny. I originally found the M2 bezel because my large tailcapped FM 1C looked odd with a normal size bezel. 
But now that I have them, I can't stop putting them on other lights!

Here's the original vision:


----------



## QtrHorse

The first up is a SF 6P body, finned head (Nailbender sells these), stainless bezel ring, generic one cell extender (detonator) and Solarforce L2-S4 clicky. I know two combat grips is kind of redundant but I thought it looked interesting. The head and one cell extender match the SF color very well. The Solarforce is more satin.








Next is a Fivemega/ Nite SF clone 3P body, SF turbohead, generic one cell extender (detonator) and SF Z41 switch.


----------



## frankiej

QtrHorse said:


> The first up is a SF 6P body, finned head (Nailbender sells these), stainless bezel ring, generic one cell extender (detonator) and Solarforece L2-S4 clicky. I know two combat grip is kind of redundant but I thought it looked intersting. The head and one cell extender match the SF color very well. The Solarforce is more satin.
> 
> Next is a Fivemega/ Nite SF clone 3P body, SF turbohead, generic one cell extener (detonator) and SF Z41 switch.



Is that extender from the Aurora XO-6?


----------



## QtrHorse

frankiej said:


> Is that extender from the Aurora XO-6?




It is not.


----------



## frankiej

QtrHorse said:


> It is not.


Thanks for the reply. I thought it looked like the extender from DX SKU 2076. I have a couple of them and they are great.

Do you mind me asking where you secured that extender? Thanks again!


----------



## QtrHorse

frankiej said:


> Thanks for the reply. I thought it looked like the extender from DX SKU 2076. I have a couple of them and they are great.
> 
> Do you mind me asking where you secured that extender? Thanks again!


 
I looked at that DX light. This extender looks very similar. There is a slight difference in the knurling and the threads and inside of this tube has a yellowish coating. That tube looks to be uncoated.

How well does it match Surefire black? This one matches very well and the knurling is close to what SF has.

I got a couple in a trade from a member on another forum. I will see if I can find out where he got it from. He said they were around $30 shipped when he bought it new.


----------



## Solscud007

Here are my E-Series Legos.




















more to come


----------



## Superdave

Nice!


i can't wait to get my silver E1B..


----------



## tx101

Here are my SF Frankensteiners







If only they could standardize HA NAT  :shakehead


----------



## Meganoggin

Oooh TX - how do you like the LF head on the M6?


----------



## tx101

money well spent


----------



## Meganoggin

tx101 said:


> money well spent



In terms of horsepower how does it rank? - it seems a real useful lego tool!


----------



## Solscud007

Here are some more.










C2 HA-BK with U2 tailcap all HA-BK!!!










































3BL from lego parts


----------



## angelofwar

Solscud007 said:


> Here are some more.
> C2 HA-BK with U2 tailcap all HA-BK!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3BL from lego parts


 
Nice solscud...does a great job of showing the modularity of SF's...BTW, wanna get rid of one of those kroma heads???


----------



## Solscud007

haha sorry no. I need them. they go well with their matching bodies.


----------



## angelofwar

I like those Patriot parts on that A21...it's like "Red, White, and I'm gonna kick yer...". Looks like somethnig Chuck Norris would carry around. How long did it take you to do all these? (in days???)


----------



## Solscud007

angelofwar said:


> I like those Patriot parts on that A21...it's like "Red, White, and I'm gonna kick yer...". Looks like somethnig Chuck Norris would carry around. How long did it take you to do all these? (in days???)




I did them all in one sitting. took a few hours haha. just didnt have time to upload them til now.


----------



## Monocrom

Solscud007 said:


>


 
My KL5 will likely soon be without a body. Those are two good looking options. I recognize every part, except for the single-cell body in the top pic. Which one did you use?


----------



## Solscud007

Monocrom said:


> My KL5 will likely soon be without a body. Those are two good looking options. I recognize every part, except for the single-cell body in the top pic. Which one did you use?




A21 adapter but you need an LU60, see the Nat-HA anti-roll hexagon right behind the KL5 head?


----------



## Monocrom

Solscud007 said:


> A21 adapter but you need an LU60, see the Nat-HA anti-roll hexagon right behind the KL5 head?


 
Missed that. Thought it was part of the body. Thanks for the very quick response. Is the SF finger-grip a good, tight, fit?


----------



## Solscud007

Monocrom said:


> Missed that. Thought it was part of the body. Thanks for the very quick response. Is the SF finger-grip a good, tight, fit?



Yeah if it is new. The grip ring I mean. I have swapped this one back and forth so the rubber is a little oily and dirty.


----------



## Solscud007

An update on the G2Z-8NX hybrid. I got my R2 dropin to work. I used a spare large spring from another dropin, a 17600 and a RCR123. It works perfectly.


----------



## Monocrom

Solscud007 said:


> An update on the G2Z-8NX hybrid. I got my R2 dropin to work. I used a spare large spring from another dropin, a 17600 and a RCR123. It works perfectly.


 
Thanks again for the reply. Also good to hear that you got your Franken light to work.


----------



## Blindasabat

What is the cable attachment? What did you use to do that. ...and how? I plan to use an E-head as a bike helmet light and that looks interesting.


Solscud007 said:


> Here are my E-Series Legos.


----------



## Solscud007

Blindasabat said:


> What is the cable attachment? What did you use to do that. ...and how? I plan to use an E-head as a bike helmet light and that looks interesting.



Cable attachment? I think you are talkin about the ST07 weaponlight remote tape switch. That is plugged into the UE07 scoutlight tailcap.


----------



## Blindasabat

I admit I know NOTHING about weaponlights. I may have to get one of those.


Solscud007 said:


> Cable attachment? I think you are talkin about the ST07 weaponlight remote tape switch. That is plugged into the UE07 scoutlight tailcap.


----------



## Solscud007

Blindasabat said:


> I admit I know NOTHING about weaponlights. I may have to get one of those.




I dont think you need the tape switch. The tape switch, on a weaponlight, is to help activate the light without having to move your hand position. It is momentary only. no constant on.

There is an SR07 that has momentary on and a constant on click switch, however what is your intent on user interface for an eseries helmet light?

The tape switches are only 7 inches long so it is not like it is long enough to reach down to your hand. Depending on how the light is mounted to your helmet, couldnt you just reach up and press the tailcap switch to activate the light?


----------



## Blindasabat

I would use just the attachment to the body of the light, cut the cable and tap it into a larger external battery. I would drop a "dummy" cell into the light itself. I have a broken Z57 I was thinking about doing that very same thing to, but the SR07 with switch may be even easier so I don't have to sort out sealing the cable.
The intention is to have minimal weight on top of the helmet with battery in the Camelbak.


Solscud007 said:


> I don't think you need the tape switch. The tape switch, on a weaponlight, is to help activate the light without having to move your hand position. It is momentary only. no constant on.
> There is an SR07 that has momentary on and a constant on click switch, however what is your intent on user interface for an eseries helmet light?


----------



## Meganoggin

Here is my current favourite... I call it the Lumamax L4.5 :naughty:







The two stage tail makes it really useful.


----------



## ElectronGuru

100% factory HA:


----------



## gsxrac

The E1 has an E series twisty and works with the LX2 head but I have to run an RCR. The LX2 body turns the old KL1 into a 2 stage light but ive gotta run a battery spacer  Both are pretty cool. Ive got some more legos but no pictures yet. Il post those later!


----------



## ElectronGuru




----------



## dcycleman

Meganoggin said:


> Here is my current favourite... I call it the Lumamax L4.5 :naughty:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two stage tail makes it really useful.


 where can you get a 2 stage switch for an L4??


----------



## BSBG

dcycleman said:


> where can you get a 2 stage switch for an L4??



That looks like an Aleph TC, likely with a McE2S. No longer available new, but used ones turn up once in a while.


----------



## ElectronGuru

Just when you thought yellow = yellow:


----------



## jp2515

ElectronGuru said:


> Just when you thought yellow = yellow:



Head and tail reminds me of safty yellow and the body reminds me of florescent yellow.


----------



## manoloco

I think i can see that color even if i close my eyes.


----------



## Meganoggin

BSBG said:


> That looks like an Aleph TC, likely with a McE2S. No longer available new, but used ones turn up once in a while.



Correct :thumbsup:


----------



## Monocrom

manoloco said:


> I think i can see that color even if i close my eyes.


 
Two-tone yellow does take a bit of getting used to.


----------



## ElectronGuru

manoloco said:


> I think i can see that color even if i close my eyes.





Monocrom said:


> Two-tone yellow does take a bit of getting used to.




Its rather trippy in person. You start off with the normal yellow looking like yellow. But as you watch the florescent yellow, the normal yellow seems to change to a mustard and eventually to what looks like tan.

Its like with spicy food overwhelming taste buds until flavors go away. The 'florescentness' seems to overwhelm your yellow receptors, washing out the yellow in your eyesight. As with taste, the effect is temporary.


----------



## novice

I'm going to put together what Electronguru just posted (just bought one of his canary yellow fluorescent G3 bodies), but I'm going to use an SF G2L yellow aluminum bezel I just bought here on the CPF marketplace, then add a Malkoff M60LL drop-in, and run it off 2XAA lithium primaries. I wouldn't have known about this possibility of running SFs off of AA cells if it had not been for the brethren (and sistren?) here who have posted threads about this possibility in the past (thank you). FWIW, if you are going to try something similar, most of you already know that you don't really need an aluminum bezel to use the Malkoff M60LL, but they don't come up that often, and I thought it would be fun to get one.


----------



## Solscud007

Anyone know what the Lego capabilities are for he new A2L and LX2? Can you put the new A2L body onto a 4flat sided A2 body?


----------



## Tempest UK

Solscud007 said:


> Can you put the new A2L body onto a 4flat sided A2 body?



Only the tailcaps are interchangeable between the A2 and A2L. The threads for the heads are different. 

Regards,
Tempest


----------



## manoloco

ElectronGuru said:


> Its rather trippy in person. You start off with the normal yellow looking like yellow. But as you watch the florescent yellow, the normal yellow seems to change to a mustard and eventually to what looks like tan.
> 
> Its like with spicy food overwhelming taste buds until flavors go away. The 'florescentness' seems to overwhelm your yellow receptors, washing out the yellow in your eyesight. As with taste, the effect is temporary.


 

Nice analogy, its very strong and will definitely stand out above everything in your FOV, which is its intended purpose, specially with the reflective stickers.

in a "rescue me" scenario, it would definitely be the host to have.


----------



## Solscud007

Success!! Lego history has been made. For a while I have tested and proven that KL5 and Kroma lens retaining rings are compatible. I had a hypothesis that the U2 would be the same. But i dont own a U2. But Since the OD of the bezel is the same across all three lights: L5, K2, & U2. 

Given this hypothesis, it had been my dream to "Porcupine" a Kroma. Thanks to Jason on the MP I have found a U2 Porcupine spiked bezel ring. 

It fits the Kroma bezel and KL5. I cannot post pics at the moment but will try to get some up ASAP.


----------



## Tempest UK

Solscud007 said:


> It fits the Kroma bezel and KL5. I cannot post pics at the moment but will try to get some up ASAP.



Good work :thumbsup: I'm looking forward to the pictures.

Regards,
Tempest


----------



## Solscud007

Here are the pictures.

This Porcupine bezel ring is a LOT sharper than my L6-PK and the least sharp of all is the Bugout Gear Jetbeam bezel on my C2 Taurus.




























Here it is on the KL5


----------



## Tempest UK

That's very cool, especially on the K2. 

You don't see Porcupine bezels coming up for sale on their own very often 

Regards,
Tempest


----------



## Solscud007

Tempest UK said:


> That's very cool, especially on the K2.
> 
> You don't see Porcupine bezels coming up for sale on their own very often
> 
> Regards,
> Tempest




Are you stalking me? haha I jsut posted that and you replied. 

anyway, yeah you are right. I have always wanted to try this combo out. But I didnt feel like paying out the money for an entire U2 Porcupine. Since all I care about is the business end. 

According to Jason, who I bought it from, he got this from someone who is in SF R&D. Chances of another Porcupine Bezel on its own is slim and none.

I had always kept this idea in my mind. I was actually thinking of having one made from scratch by a machinst. but the amount of labor and CAD to make the design would be almost as much as the real light. 

So I am happy that I was at the right place at the right time with the right ideas for this unique piece of SF lego.


----------



## bigchelis

Solscud007 said:


> Are you stalking me? haha I jsut posted that and you replied.
> 
> anyway, yeah you are right. I have always wanted to try this combo out. But I didnt feel like paying out the money for an entire U2 Porcupine. Since all I care about is the business end.
> 
> According to Jason, who I bought it from, he got this from someone who is in SF R&D. Chances of another Porcupine Bezel on its own is slim and none.
> 
> I had always kept this idea in my mind. I was actually thinking of having one made from scratch by a machinst. but the amount of labor and CAD to make the design would be almost as much as the real light.
> 
> So I am happy that I was at the right place at the right time with the right ideas for this unique piece of SF lego.


 

I like the sharklike bezel on the 3P parts. I have seen some used on KL4 bezels too, but don't know where to get one.


----------



## rtt

novice said:


> I'm going to put together what Electronguru just posted (just bought one of his canary yellow fluorescent G3 bodies), but I'm going to use an SF G2L yellow aluminum bezel I just bought here on the CPF marketplace, then add a Malkoff M60LL drop-in, and run it off 2XAA lithium primaries. I wouldn't have known about this possibility of running SFs off of AA cells if it had not been for the brethren (and sistren?) here who have posted threads about this possibility in the past (thank you). FWIW, if you are going to try something similar, most of you already know that you don't really need an aluminum bezel to use the Malkoff M60LL, but they don't come up that often, and I thought it would be fun to get one.


 
I am using an old school (round body) 9P with two AA alkaline batteries and a Lumen Factory D26 3.7V Special tint drop in. This combination provides more throw than the M60LL with a warm tint. The LF drop in cost is $28.00. I use a half inch drip system tube which is available at any hardware store cut to the proper length as a insert to prevent battery rattle. This tubing outside diameter and outside diameter is perfect. The tubing is a press fit into the flashlight tube and the AA battery is a slip fit into the drip system tubing. I paid 7 cents for a six inch length of tubing. I really like this setup!


----------



## Stillphoto

bigchelis said:


> I like the sharklike bezel on the 3P parts. I have seen some used on KL4 bezels too, but don't know where to get one.



Here you go! 
http://www.gggaz.com/index.php?id=96&parents=130


----------



## Solscud007

Stillphoto said:


> Here you go!
> http://www.gggaz.com/index.php?id=96&parents=130




or you can use a E2D bezel on the KL4.

as seen in the picture look at the middle light. It is a KL4 with E2D bezel ring.

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/507/img2962z.jpg


----------



## Eric242

I just finished my latest Surefire Lego. Well almost, there´s still a nailbender SST-50 D36 dropin en route.

Surefire Z46, FiveMega 1x18650 c-M Body, Surefire Lanyardring, Novatac EDC Clip, Ganp Tailcap:


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic

WOW! Very nice FrankeinFire!


----------



## ElectronGuru

By request:


----------



## Dioni

ElectronGuru said:


> Just when you thought yellow = yellow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ​


 
my eyes... :duck:


----------



## Kestrel

Dioni said:


> my eyes... :duck:


That's what this smiley is for:


----------



## Dioni

Kestrel said:


> That's what this smiley is for:


 
Haha.. :laughing:
yep, I think I also should use sunglass.


----------



## Solscud007

Here is a true SF HA 3P (well as close as possible) All parts are 100% original SF parts. no custom annodizing.

Left=3P TypeII
Right= Lego 3P TypeIII


----------



## Eric242

Since I just took these pictures a few days ago....


----------



## gswitter

Makes me want to track down more Leef bodies.


----------



## angelofwar

angelofwar said:


> Here it is...a 6Z w/ A19 and an A20 with a Malkoff M60F
> 
> How it's carried (6Z w/ A19 and A20):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or 3 Cells (6Z + A19) for longer runtime:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or 2 cells, (Stock 6Z) if that's all you have...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good thing about the 6Z is it can be mounted to an M78 or an M79 mount, due to the cut down body...talk about versatility!


 
I though this was the ultimate lego...well, now I have an L60 and an A21 enroute...(thanks dafab), which when paired with this will truly make the ultimate SF lego. So, with only 4 pieces, the light in it's full factor will be:

1. The L60, A21, A19, and A20, running off a B65 w/ Malkoff M60/60L/60F

2. Take the A20 off and run it off 3 primary 123's/2xAA's

3. Take the A19 off, run it on two primaries.

4. Attach the L60 w/ A21 to my 918FA for a 9-Volt weapon light.

5. Attach the L60 w/o A21 to my 918FA for a 6-Volt weapon light.

The Z20 spacer also opens up more options to run it off 2 RCR123's...I'll be able to take this light anywhere and run it off various cell configs, etc. with out have to bring more than one light...not that I would only bring one, but this is the ultimate in flexability! Will post pic's of the different set-ups once I get the other parts in.


----------



## angelofwar

Here it is...

Left-to-right: 
-6Z Tail Cap
-A20
-A19
-A21
-L60







And 






As well...






Lastly...


----------



## ElectronGuru

Surefire 6P, Steampunk Edition:


----------



## WESBC

I'm still waiting on parts, but its basically going to be an E2DL head with E1B guts, E1E body, and E2D tailcap, making it a E1DL. It might or might not replace my E2DL as my primary EDC.


----------



## ElectronGuru

Nitrolon + Nitrolon + Nitrolon + SS/TiAlN:


----------



## WESBC




----------



## BIGLOU

6P with $12 Moddoo "Thin Run" Tumbled Z59 SS Clip, Tactical HID's Xeno RG03 V3 SS Bezel and Malkoff M60 on AW RCR123s








G2Z with ElectronGuru McClicky, Matte Delrin Shroud, Xeno ST03 V2 Blacked Out SS Strike Bezel, GID O-rings, Lighthound Novatac New Style Clip and P60L.








Very Happy. Thanks Tom and Dan. :bow:


----------



## red02

Is there any extension that would fit a G2Z and let me use 3xcr123?


----------



## ElectronGuru

red02 said:


> Is there any extension that would fit a G2Z and let me use 3xcr123?



Thats a tricky one. SF makes two 'lengths' of extender:

A19 - 34mm
A14 - 50mm

A19's are only available in metal (matches 6P) and these don't work (in my testing) with Nitrolon bodies. A14's _are_ available in Nitrolon, but give more length than you need.

So its easy to add an A14 to a G3 and run 3x17500's, but you'd need some kind of half cell (~15mm) spacer to add one cell to your G2Z with an A14.


----------



## red02

Its good to hear that there are options. I have a 17mm wf-139 spacer. I think lighthound carries a 15mm charging spacer. 

How about the L2-ECR? will it lego with a G2Z?


----------



## ElectronGuru

G's have shorter tailcap threads so the key issue is the metal liner touching the inside rim of an extender before it can't go on any farther. Other designs may not have this issue.

Careful with the spacers. 17mm is probably fine but unless they are wrapped, there is a risk of them shorting with the sides of the tubes.


----------



## Solscud007

I have been playing around with my SF M910 vertical grip weaponlight.

I discovered that the tailcap is similar to my LU60, A21, and K2/U2 head threading.

only the incan head works as I can run reversed polarity. anyone know of any P60 led dropins that can run reverse polarity?





















I like to call this lego, the Porcuipine boomerang of death!!!!


----------



## kosPap

huh? that beats my "hammer" flashlight design!

you got an angle iron!


----------



## DM51

Is that for mounting on one of those new rifles I've heard about that shoots round corners? :duh2:


----------



## Solscud007

haha sure!! it is called the Corner Shot. no joke. the gun that shoots around corners is the Corner Shot.


----------



## Dioni

Solscud007 said:


>



LOL... :sick2:


----------



## Solscud007

Dioni said:


> LOL... :sick2:




I like to think of it as my SF water proof capsule haha.


----------



## DM51

Solscud007 said:


> the gunt that shoots around corners


Phew - that was a near one.


----------



## Monocrom

Solscud007 said:


> haha sure!! it is called the Corner Shot. no joke. the gunt that shoots around corners is the Corner Shot.


 
Nothing new. There was one created during the Wild West. But limited technology meant that the barrel was slowly bent ever so slightly until it curved, but only in one direction. If you were on the wrong side of a corner, you'd have to fire the weapon upside down. Apparently it worked, but carrying it on a horse with your other rifles proved to be horrible impractical. It fell out of favor.

Now the concept is back again. 

(I guess you could just toss a grenade around the corner, but sometimes you want to take chances. :tinfoil


----------



## kosPap

Solscud007 said:


>


 

Dead End flashlight....or blind as a Bat!


----------



## Solscud007

Monocrom said:


> Nothing new. There was one created during the Wild West. But limited technology meant that the barrel was slowly bent ever so slightly until it curved, but only in one direction. If you were on the wrong side of a corner, you'd have to fire the weapon upside down. Apparently it worked, but carrying it on a horse with your other rifles proved to be horrible impractical. It fell out of favor.
> 
> Now the concept is back again.
> 
> (I guess you could just toss a grenade around the corner, but sometimes you want to take chances. :tinfoil




yes but thanks to technology, the Corner shot has a camera and viewscreen. The camera relays what the gun is pointing at and has a reticle so you can actually aim. the object of course is to keep the shooter completely covered and not have to reveal any part of the body.


----------



## aioria

KT1+C3 body+Z58






M4+Seraph P7 head;M3T+JET M2S Adapter






L4+MC E2S


----------



## Dioni

Solscud007 said:


> I like to think of it as my SF water proof capsule haha.


 
Indeed! I didn't think on this. Hahaha.. :thumbsup:
PS.: I "bit" expensive though, but... it's a Surefire! 



aioria said:


> M4+Seraph P7 head;M3T+JET M2S Adapter


 
Very nice! Just a question, whats this M2S adapter?


----------



## alantch

Another one of mine


----------



## angelofwar

alantch said:


> Another one of mine


 
WOW, Alan!!! That's one sweet looking get-up. Looks a little more "Robust" than using it with the standard KT1-HA. How's the balance in the hand??? Does the tail-cap help off set the weight of the head? And are ya running a N1 in there or a Lumens Factory bulb?


----------



## aioria

Dioni said:


> Just a question, whats this M2S adapter?


Pls look at this site:
http://jetbeam.com.cn/links/pro/m2s.aspx,
The M2S adapter can apply to SUREFIRE.


----------



## alantch

angelofwar said:


> WOW, Alan!!! That's one sweet looking get-up. Looks a little more "Robust" than using it with the standard KT1-HA. How's the balance in the hand??? Does the tail-cap help off set the weight of the head? And are ya running a N1 in there or a Lumens Factory bulb?


It balances very nicely in the hand, which was quite a surprise to me as I thought it'll be front-heavy due to the KT4. I guess the SW02 balances it due to it's bigger mass. It's running a warm 3 mode NB tower module.


----------



## Dioni

aioria said:


> Pls look at this site:
> http://jetbeam.com.cn/links/pro/m2s.aspx,
> The M2S adapter can apply to SUREFIRE.


 
Oh yep... you mean the extender! I was thinking you were using a adapter to fit the Surefire TH on the Jet body.  So didn't you need it? Are they compatible? Nice!

Cheers,
Dioni


----------



## Kif

Here are the Surefire Legos I recently built. 

*Surefire KL1 w/ VG FB3 body*
Fit either CR123 primaries or AA. Great back-up light :thumbsup:





*Surfire Z44 bezel w/ FM 1x16340 body & Solarforce R2 drop-in*
Nice pocket rocket


----------



## kosPap

Kif said:


> Here are the Surefire Legos I recently built.
> 
> *Surefire KL1 w/ VG FB3 body*
> Fit either CR123 primaries or AA. Great back-up light :thumbsup:


 
cannot tell from my screen but this body is 2xAA...so you can run the head with 3CR123s too?


----------



## Kif

kosPap said:


> cannot tell from my screen but this body is 2xAA...so you can run the head with 3CR123s too?



Actually the FB3 body is designed for 3xCR123, but 2xAA will be fine.
The KL1 working voltage is 3v-9v, so I think this combination is great.


----------



## Eric242

Here´s my latest Surefire lego. A KL3-BK-BL (blue LED), FiveMega 1x16340 Body, Z41 Switch with NetKidz Clicky Conversion and an Overready Tailcap Shroud with Clip.


----------



## Monocrom

Kif said:


> *Surfire Z44 bezel w/ FM 1x16340 body & Solarforce R2 drop-in*
> Nice pocket rocket


 
Which Solarforce drop-in is that?


----------



## bigchelis

Monocrom said:


> Which Solarforce drop-in is that?


 

It is a Low Voltage R2 drop-in by Solarforce. It makes full 220ish OTF with a li-on 4.2v input, but as you put less voltage the lumens drop. With 2 AA cells it does 150ish and with 1 AA cell 88ish OTF.

The good thing is it allows for you to use a primary till you drain all the juice out of it. The bad news is the lumens drop as you use up the juice.

bigC


----------



## Monocrom

Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Solscud007

SF KM2 on VTAC-L4 I call it E2V


----------



## kosPap

great idea....dressed in black/red like any real vampire!


----------



## alantch

Not sure if this combo has been posted here before. This is another one of mine.


----------



## carl

1) Can the SF SW01 lookalike tailcap made by G&P be purchased separately?
http://www.gp-web.com/en/productspop.php?pid=991

2) Can it be fitted with a McClicky switch?


----------



## Eric242

Yes, you can fit a McClicky into the SW01 slim clone from G&P. I actually have one in mine. I can´t remember what retaining ring I used but I am pretty sure you can get the Netkidz or Oveready clicky conversions for the tailcap. I don´t think these clones are available separately (I took mine from my Scorpion R500).

Eric


----------



## carl

thanks for the info


----------



## carl

Eric242 said:


> Yes, you can fit a McClicky into the SW01 slim clone from G&P. I actually have one in mine. I can´t remember what retaining ring I used but I am pretty sure you can get the Netkidz or Oveready clicky conversions for the tailcap. I don´t think these clones are available separately (I took mine from my Scorpion R500).
> 
> Eric



Eric,
Just a few more questions:

1) How is the quality of the G&P tailcap in general?
2) Does it mate up well with the SF tailcap threads?
3) Does the McClicky fit in well and work well?
4) Does it add any more length to the light?
5) Are you happy with the overall function of the G&P tailcap on your C2?

thanks


----------



## Solscud007

My latest Lego. my PK-K2 (Porcupine Kroma) Now with PK BODY!!!!


----------



## Dioni

Solscud007 said:


> My latest Lego. my PK-K2 (Porcupine Kroma) Now with PK BODY!!!!


 
Its just awesome!


----------



## Sgt. LED

:thumbsup:
That does look very nice, good to see it working.


----------



## Solscud007

Sgt. LED said:


> :thumbsup:
> That does look very nice, good to see it working.



Thanks for selling it back to me hehe.

as I suspected, it was my original PK body. see my old post from 11/7/08

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2691718&postcount=398


----------



## Master-chip

Hi,

Here's mine of SureFire lego: head is a Turbo, body of a Z3 and a tailcap of a black G2.

Here you go,






Regards to all!

Master-chip.


----------



## angelofwar

Nice master chip! Those are some nice classic pieces you have! :welcome: BTW! (PM me if ya ever decide to get rid of the Z3...LOL)


----------



## Solscud007

Wow a month and nothing?

Well thanks to Sgt LED again, I got my PEU pineapple body. FINALLY I have made my 2x cell porcupine.


----------



## Meganoggin

Lookin' good! :thumbsup:


----------



## angelofwar

SOLSCUD007's catching up to my post count...I have to stay one step-ahead of the game...

Um, Yeah...Lookin Good! :thumbsup:


----------



## Solscud007

angelofwar said:


> SOLSCUD007's catching up to my post count...I have to stay one step-ahead of the game...
> 
> Um, Yeah...Lookin Good! :thumbsup:



Post count? Haha. It's all about the lights.


----------



## alantch




----------



## ninemm

Wow those is really nice looking alantch. :thumbsup:


----------



## red02

Is there any way to fit an E head on to a G body?


----------



## SuperTrouper

Don't think I've posted these here yet:


----------



## BIGLOU

Classic L60 (Z32, L60 body, A13 adapter) with U0505B Universal Housing Dual On/Off Switch





L60 with A13, A21 adapter and Z41 TC running a B65 Ni-Cad


----------



## spydie fanatic

I have an outdated L5 lumamax, so I took the tail off and put it on a 6P that has a malkoff dropin; I prefer the forward clicky to the one you have to twist to keep the light on.


----------



## Kestrel

Here's a ready-to-go *SureFire Lego* that I picked up in a recent parts purchase:

A first-gen SureFire KL1 E-series head (previously modded with an improved optic and a slightly warmish Luxeon3), combined with a 3xCR123 E-series-compatible body (I don't know who made this body - any suggestions?).

The cool thing is that the (relatively low output current) buck-boost driver in the SF KL1 head can run satisfactorily from ~2.4v all the way up to ~9v. So together, this makes for an elusive 2xAA *&* 3xCR123 SureFire:






~7.5 Vin from 3xCR123:_____________________~2.4 Vin from 2xAA Alkalines:









My guestimate is ~60 lumens w/ 3xCR123:_____~50 lumens or so from the 2xAA's:___________~240 lumens from my Malkoff M31W as a comparison:


----------



## Raoul_Duke

Kestrel said:


> (I don't know who made this body - any suggestions?).



Is it an early vertion of a Vital Gear body? ( twisty?)


----------



## etc

cool, I want one of these.


----------



## mudman cj

etc said:


> cool, I want one of these.



Ah, a succinct summary of my history surfing CPF.


----------



## DM51

etc said:


> cool, I want one of these.


 


mudman cj said:


> Ah, a succinct summary of my history surfing CPF.


LOL!! Perfect - it sums us up, all of us!


----------



## Dioni

ElectronGuru said:


> By request:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ​


 
Hey Dan

I liked it so much that now I have my own! I bit different though :twothumbs

- G2 Tan body
- G2L head
- SS crenelated bezel
- Z41 Ni
- Inox lanyard ring
- Nitecore lanyard
- Malkoff M61
- 2xRCR123


----------



## ElectronGuru

Dioni said:


> I liked it so much that now I have my own!



Sweet! :goodjob:


Here's one from today. I was messing around with parts, took an overexposed image (no photoshop trickery here) and this happened:


----------



## Dioni

ElectronGuru said:


> Sweet! :goodjob:


 
Thanks! 




ElectronGuru said:


> Here's one from today. I was messing around with parts, took an overexposed image (no photoshop trickery here) and this happened:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ​


 
eeeek


----------



## Dioni

Just to look more like your! 


 



ElectronGuru said:


> ​


----------



## ElectronGuru

Dioni said:


> Just to look more like your!




*Awesome!*


----------



## Kraid

Lol! Great pics!:thumbsup:


----------



## angelofwar

Ok, My camera Sucks, but I thought the "SF Black & Tan" Looked really sweet, (thanks *EG* and *DIONI*!!! Ya bunch of "pushers") so here's my additions...

Here it is with the new KX3 (too big for 2-cell lights IMHO)






And here with an old Z32 Shock Isolated Bezel...






And lastly, my favorite set-up with the G2-TN, is with an old KL3 (Fresnel)...






I currently only have one Tan G2, but after seeing several of these, I think I'm gonna grab another, and put a dedicated KX4-BK-HA on it and a clickie.


----------



## Dioni

Very cool man!! :rock:

I also have a M2-HA-BK. I'll take some shot of it!


----------



## LightJunk

Here's my humble Lego. Weird thing is it's brighter than Kuku's E-series XP-G drop in. 






Pic resized. Thanks Dioni


----------



## Eric242

The last few days I was reassembling my legos and that´s what I ended up with (the light on the left is a stock L5 - managed to smuggle it´s way into the picture somehow). 






Surefire C2 with Oveready black SS bezel, tailcapshroud with clip, McClicky upgrade and Triple XP-G R5 dropin. And the icing is the red o-ring beneath the tailcap. I think red looks really cool on surefire HA.





Surefire M2 body, M3 head, Z41, Surefire C-M adaptor (taken off a KL3) and inside it´s head a D36 Nailbender MC-E dropin.





The Twins: Surefire C2, Ganp tailcap, Oveready black SS bezel, Novatac EDC Clip and inside their heads a Lumens Factory dropin (1x IMR-9, 1x XP-G R5)





This one didn´t change very much: Surefire M3 head with Netkidz SS bezel, Leef 2x18500 HA body, Leef C-M adaptor, Ganp Tailcap and again a Nailbender D36 MC-E dropin.





And the little one: Surefire 6PD head, Fivemega 1X16340 body, Surefire Z41 with Netkidz Clicky upgrade, Oveready tailcapshroud with clip & green tritium vial, Nailbender D26 warm white MC-E dropin.




*
Now I really need to know where I can get a few more of these red o-rings. Unfortunatelly I only had three of them.*


----------



## foxtrot824

Gotta love the Legos, especially the single cell ones.









My current EDC triple


----------



## Dioni

LightJunk said:


> Here's my humble Lego. Weird thing is it's brighter than Kuku's E-series XP-G drop in.


 
Almost a E1DL 

PS: Please resize your pic.


----------



## Dioni

Eric, your Centurions are great!! 

Foxtrot, how many lumens does it put out? :devil:


----------



## angelofwar

Dioni said:


> Very cool man!! :rock:
> 
> I also have a M2-HA-BK. I'll take some shot of it!


 
That'll look awesome! Is it factory HA, or is it a re-done one?


----------



## Dioni

angelofwar said:


> That'll look awesome! Is it factory HA, or is it a re-done one?


 
Its a factory HA one that came from a LU60a. Pic soon!


----------



## angelofwar

Dioni said:


> Its a factory HA one that came from a LU60a. Pic soon!


 
Thanks Dioni! Can't wait to see a pic! I had an old ribbed M2-HA head that I sold awhile ago...need to get another one...


----------



## foxtrot824

Dioni said:


> Foxtrot, how many lumens does it put out? :devil:



600ish on a cloudy day , I'm going to do this build for a third time (3rd time is the charm) using XP-Gs and at least a 2.5A driver.


----------



## jamesmtl514

To those with the Tan G2 Legos I dislike you in the nicest way possible....

I've been wanting a tan G2 for a while now, I just didn't see myself using it, mostly because it was 'too tan'. Now that i see you legoing it with the black tail and cap I NEED a tan body.

Thanks bud.


----------



## jellydonut

Greetings esteemed Surefire legoers,

My first Surefire is on its way, a Milky-modded U2. I know the tailcap is 6P-compatible, but I am wondering which bodies and heads, if any, it'll interchange with.

The Kroma looks very similar. The V2 Vampire looks kinda similar but that one is E-series or Millennium compatible, isn't it, so maybe not?

Anyone know? I'd search but 'ultra' gives no results and 'U2' gives none either, I can only assume it is too short.


----------



## Dioni

angelofwar said:


> Thanks Dioni! Can't wait to see a pic! I had an old ribbed M2-HA head that I sold awhile ago...need to get another one...


 
Here it is man! 

PS: I dont where did this purple tint came from.. :sick2: by naked eye it does not look anything purple.


----------



## Dioni

foxtrot824 said:


> 600ish on a cloudy day , I'm going to do this build for a third time (3rd time is the charm) using XP-Gs and at least a 2.5A driver.


 
Nice!!! :thumbsup: 



jamesmtl514 said:


> To those with the Tan G2 Legos I dislike you in the nicest way possible....
> 
> I've been wanting a tan G2 for a while now, I just didn't see myself using it, mostly because it was 'too tan'. Now that i see you legoing it with the black tail and cap I NEED a tan body.
> 
> Thanks bud.


 
haha.. I love these legos


----------



## ElectronGuru

Dioni said:


>




Nice, here's a type II/yellow version!:


----------



## Dioni

Exactly based on this your that I took my pic! :nana:


----------



## BIGLOU

You guys are sick. I was never into Tan but thinking about getting one now. Do you guys also have the OD one laying around that would look awesome too. Angelofwar I believe you have a KT2 can you throw up a photo of it with the Tan body. Nice BM AFO by the way.


----------



## angelofwar

BIGLOU said:


> You guys are sick. I was never into Tan but thinking about getting one now. Do you guys also have the OD one laying around that would look awesome too. Angelofwar I believe you have a KT2 can you throw up a photo of it with the Tan body. Nice BM AFO by the way.


 
I'll get some OD pic's for ya Lou. I just sold my KT1/2 though.... Yes, that BM AFO is the best all-around knife I've ever owned. Just like SF...the difference in quality is just there...


----------



## angelofwar

jellydonut said:


> Greetings esteemed Surefire legoers,
> 
> My first Surefire is on its way, a Milky-modded U2. I know the tailcap is 6P-compatible, but I am wondering which bodies and heads, if any, it'll interchange with.
> 
> The Kroma looks very similar. The V2 Vampire looks kinda similar but that one is E-series or Millennium compatible, isn't it, so maybe not?
> 
> Anyone know? I'd search but 'ultra' gives no results and 'U2' gives none either, I can only assume it is too short.


 
The Kroma Head and V2 Head will fit on the U2 body...but, the U2 body is the same as the Kroma. BUT, the U2 and Kroma heads will fit in weapon light bodies...I've made U2/Kroma weaponlights using my stuff. The coolest thing is the Kroma Tail-Cap...dual stage P-Series compatible tailcap. It'll work with direct drive LED modules at 6volts, like the Kroma. The U2 will aslo fit on an A21 weapon light adpater, effectively making a U1??? LOL! Lots of fun stuff to do with the Kroma/U2 bodies/heads.


----------



## jellydonut

Ohh, this is why I'm confused; http://www.surefire.com/LEDConversions

Surefire makes three different threaded variants of their Vampire head.

So, basically, http://www.surefire.com/660-Classic <- this one is compatible with the U2/Kroma? I guess I gotta be on the lookout for that one.. It looks much more streamlined compared to the factory bodies.

Hm, according to your chart all the Millennium weaponlights are compatible as well? I guess that's worth a shot too, although they're usually very pricy.


----------



## skwei

just started with Surefire addiction lately.......
this is my Surefire 'tool light'...

e2dl tailcap + e1e body + vital gear E to C adapter + solarforce l2p head + xeno bezel + Malkoff M60


----------



## angelofwar

jellydonut said:


> Ohh, this is why I'm confused; http://www.surefire.com/LEDConversions
> 
> Surefire makes three different threaded variants of their Vampire head.
> 
> So, basically, http://www.surefire.com/660-Classic <- this one is compatible with the U2/Kroma? I guess I gotta be on the lookout for that one.. It looks much more streamlined compared to the factory bodies.
> 
> Hm, according to your chart all the Millennium weaponlights are compatible as well? I guess that's worth a shot too, although they're usually very pricy.


 
Check out the drawing on this link:

http://www.opticsplanet.net/surefire-universal-housing-body-a21.html

The A21 (about 1" long) is the piece between the tape switch (XM07) and the L60 (main light body), with your choice of C/G/P/Z series bezel on that. It acts as an adapter, as the L60 would normally be screwed into a dedicated forend, like the one's for the shot-guns/HK MP5, etc. The A21 allows you to take the L60 off your dedicated forend, and mount it on a rifle the conventional way, and makes up the space for that last battery.

The U2/Kroma/KM3 heads have the same threads at there ends as the L60, and will screw directly into the A21 or any weaponlight dedicated forend, or a millenium weaponlight body (such as those on the M95x/M96x series).

Check the images at the bottom of this for a good idea of the Millenium weaponlights:

http://www.opticsplanet.net/surefire-weaponlights-m962xm07.html

The KM2 will screw onto any scoutlight body or E-Series flashlight.

Hope this helps clear some stuff up.


----------



## Dioni

skwei said:


> just started with Surefire addiction lately.......
> this is my Surefire 'tool light'...
> 
> e2dl tailcap + e1e body + vital gear E to C adapter + solarforce l2p head + xeno bezel + Malkoff M60
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [...]


 
I love these Black/Gray HAIII legos. Very nice E-series!
Just a question: How does this M60 go on only one RCR123? Wouldn't better a M30?

Cheers


----------



## angelofwar

jellydonut said:


> Ohh, this is why I'm confused; http://www.surefire.com/LEDConversions
> 
> Surefire makes three different threaded variants of their Vampire head.
> 
> So, basically, http://www.surefire.com/660-Classic <- this one is compatible with the U2/Kroma? I guess I gotta be on the lookout for that one.. It looks much more streamlined compared to the factory bodies.
> 
> Hm, according to your chart all the Millennium weaponlights are compatible as well? I guess that's worth a shot too, although they're usually very pricy.


 

Here you go *Jelly Donut*






The *A21* is in front (left) of the 2ea. SF123's, just to show you some of your compatibility options. Show's how the *L60* (used in the 660 weaponlight) and the U2/Kroma heads will fit the A21. You can run the Kroma off an RCR123, but I'm not sure about the U2.

The adpaters to the top/right of the A21 are (starting from the bottom)
1) *A20*; Converts 9V body to accept B65 R/C's
2) *A19*: 1 cell extender; Used with the L60 and A21, it give you a 9V light instead of a 6V one.
3)* A14*: Converts a 2-Cell/6-Volt body to accept B65 R/C's.

*L60* (above the U2 head): Can be screwed into a dedicated fore-end housing, or conventionally mounted by attaching to the A21, then a tape switch, and a weaponmount (M79 works good). Can also be used as a handheld. Will accept any C/P/G/Z Series Bezels/Heads/Etc. (voltage limited by lamp/LED assy).

Hope this helps or at least gives you some ideas/shows the TRUE flexibilty of SF Lego's. I'll snap some pic's of the MU (Millenium Universal) parts and some lego's when I get out of here.

The heads/bezels/LED assy's are (starting from bottom): KL3, Z32, Z44-BK, and the last is a G3 Nitrolon bezel (model slipped my mind).


----------



## jellydonut

Great stuff, thanks! I owe you.lovecpf


----------



## Kestrel

AOW, your post makes me wonder: At what point does CPF's collective knowledge of SureFire products exceed that of the SureFire company itself? :huh:


----------



## skwei

Dioni said:


> I love these Black/Gray HAIII legos. Very nice E-series!
> Just a question: How does this M60 go on only one RCR123? Wouldn't better a M30?
> 
> Cheers



Not too sure about running this with RCR123...cos i'm powering up this with AW 16340 IMR :thumbsup:. I have not done the proper runtime test with this setup, but for 30 minutes of continuous usage wasn't an issue as i just did it last night :twothumbs

hmm.....M30 vs M60 ? i would always go for the M60 as i do love high lumens output :devil: . Not too sure whether i like the M30 cos i only have M60 and M61 atm...


----------



## Monocrom

Kestrel said:


> AOW, your post makes me wonder: At what point does CPF's collective knowledge of SureFire products exceed that of the SureFire company itself? :huh:


 
We might have honestly reached that point already.


----------



## DM51

Monocrom said:


> We might have honestly reached that point already.


Al reached it years ago, all by himself, lol.


----------



## angelofwar

Kestrel said:


> AOW, your post makes me wonder: At what point does CPF's collective knowledge of SureFire products exceed that of the SureFire company itself? :huh:


 
What monocrom said Kestrel...LOL!


----------



## ANDREAS FERRARI

angelofwar said:


> What monocrom said Kestrel...LOL!



What DM51 said about Size15's....LOL.


----------



## Kestrel

Monocrom said:


> We might have honestly reached that point already.





DM51 said:


> Al reached it years ago, all by himself, lol.





angelofwar said:


> What monocrom said Kestrel...LOL!





ANDREAS FERRARI said:


> What DM51 said about Size15's....LOL.


What Size15's said about Monocrom, LOL.


----------



## Monocrom

Kestrel said:


> What Size15's said about Monocrom, LOL.


 
Hey! Al didn't say anything about me. Yup . . . Nothing at all. 

p).


----------



## Dioni

DM51 said:


> Al reached it years ago, all by himself, lol.


 
+1


----------



## Solscud007

Jelly Donut:

If you are gonna buy a KM3 I recommend that you just buy the Surefire V2 Vampire. You get a body and tailcap for only $11 more. 

It is much better to get the whole light than just the head.

If you want more options browse the Marketplace for a LU60 adapter. This allows you to use a 6P style head and P60 size drop-in (however some dropins require the LU60 adapter to be ground a bit inside to make clearance) but you can make a 6P style light using a U2 body and LU60 adapter on a 6P head.


----------



## Dioni

Hey Jelly!!!!!

Do not listen to him!
Take a look what he did with this poor Kroma! :mecry:

||
\/



Solscud007 said:


>


----------



## Solscud007

Dioni said:


> Hey Jelly!!!!!
> 
> Do not listen to him!
> Take a look what he did with this poor Kroma! :mecry:
> 
> ||
> \/




quiet you!!!!! haha


----------



## ARA

Thanks guys for explaining the lego systems so well, really appreciate it. The info in this thread is priceless. I wonder why this thread is not a sticky yet.


----------



## jellydonut

Solscud007 said:


> Jelly Donut:
> 
> If you are gonna buy a KM3 I recommend that you just buy the Surefire V2 Vampire. You get a body and tailcap for only $11 more.
> 
> It is much better to get the whole light than just the head.
> 
> If you want more options browse the Marketplace for a LU60 adapter. This allows you to use a 6P style head and P60 size drop-in (however some dropins require the LU60 adapter to be ground a bit inside to make clearance) but you can make a 6P style light using a U2 body and LU60 adapter on a 6P head.


Hey

Nope, not getting the vis/IR head. I just brought that into my question since it looked like it was one of the few compatible with the U2 and Kroma, and since it was also a weaponlight I assumed U2's and Kromas would be weaponlight compatible. Which they were! 

Of course, in a world where I laid golden eggs, I'd buy the Vampire just for fun but I have slightly above zero need for IR so I can't justify it even to myself.

What IS that thing on the Kroma anyway?:duh2:


----------



## Solscud007

jellydonut said:


> What IS that thing on the Kroma anyway?:duh2:




M900 series vertical grip weaponlight tailcap


----------



## angelofwar

BIGLOU said:


> You guys are sick. I was never into Tan but thinking about getting one now. Do you guys also have the OD one laying around that would look awesome too. Angelofwar I believe you have a KT2 can you throw up a photo of it with the Tan body. Nice BM AFO by the way.


 
Here ya go Big Lou...
















:thumbsup:


----------



## Dioni

Very nice AOW. I like the last one!


----------



## BIGLOU

Thanks AOW I know you had it. I call it "Army Style". I also like the KX3 Head is that from a G2D and the G-specific Z59 clicky (115L-60L-15L).


----------



## angelofwar

BIGLOU said:


> Thanks AOW I know you had it. I call it "Army Style". I also like the KX3 Head is that from a G2D and the G-specific Z59 clicky (115L-60L-15L).


 
No prob...The KX3 is from a G2D, but I use it on a black G3 (G3D-BK!). Also, it's the head (the KX3) that's 3 levels...the tail cap is a single-stage. The head can switch modes with a regular twistie, but it's a pain in the butt.


----------



## Eric242

Here are two additional familiy pictures of my Surefire Legos:


----------



## angelofwar

Nice Eric! Now THAT is a C-2 Collection!


----------



## angelofwar

by mOk, want to get make an end-all one stop shop for what parts attach to what, etc. What do you guys think of this color coded diagram? Make sense? If so, I'll finish adding the other parts and get measurements next to the images and stuff. Thoughts? opinions? Recomendations? If you find it useful, say so, and maybe we can get one of the mods' to a) make it a sticky (once it's finished), or b) place it an already existing sticky. If not, I'll link to this post in my sig, so all you have to do is find a post from me.

NOTE: UPDATED 30 Mar 11
















Here's a pic of the pieces as they fit together and some battery configs...






And the Millenium Weapon-Lights...











And the Hand-Helds...






The Adapters by them selves for easy ID...






Like I said, if ya like it, say so, and I can add some more tail-caps with model numbers, the weapon light bodies, etc. so people can stop posting "Can the A21 fit the Z49?" and the endless "Lego" question postings. I will include underneath a quick detail of what the item "essentially" does, e.g.

A14=Converts 6P to 6R/to accept B65's
A19=One cell extender for "P" Series lights. (i.e. 6P to 9P, etc.)
A21=Converts L60 to side weapon mounted (instead of attaching to dedicated fore-end., and/or converts it to a handheld.

(Al, I have some corrections to make name wise, etc. and will try to have them updated on my next post...I'll just update the pictures here instead of posting new pic's on a new post, for example the LU10 being the body part AND bezel, etc.)

???


----------



## ARA

AoW, thank you for your excellent posts. The chart is a great idea. I am a little unsure about the battery configurations that the different setups offer. Maybe the chart could elaborate a bit further on it. :wave:


----------



## jellydonut

I just have to make sure I got this right. The blue part means the blues fit into each other - so a U2/KROMA body would go into an L60, LU10, LU20 or LU60A extender?

If I managed to understand it correctly then yeah, I say go for it. It would make a pretty sweet reference.:thumbsup:

Will you include the A2/A2L and all the E-series compatibles like the LX2 along with the various tailcaps?


----------



## angelofwar

jellydonut said:


> I just have to make sure I got this right. The blue part means the blues fit into each other - so a U2/KROMA body would go into an L60, LU10, LU20 or LU60A extender?
> 
> If I managed to understand it correctly then yeah, I say go for it. It would make a pretty sweet reference.:thumbsup:
> 
> Will you include the A2/A2L and all the E-series compatibles like the LX2 along with the various tailcaps?


 
The first part is correct...the second part is the other way around...an L60 will screw into a U2 body, and not vice-versa, but essentially, yes, the lighter blue (male) goes into the darker blue (female), and so-on. 

I will work on the E-series/scoutlight parts as well...it will help me remember as well, when I'm trying to do all my lego'ing, and coming up with a new "invention".


----------



## PCC

So, where does the LU60 fit on the chart?


----------



## Solscud007

I think he confused the LU60 with the LU60A. 

The LU60 is kroma body to c/p head

The LU60A is e-series to c/p head


----------



## PCC

No, I have an LU60. Not an LU60A. The larger threads are C/P bezel compatible but the rear are the same as the C/P threads but much shorter. I've seen these sold on eBay with an M2 bezel and P60. It looks like a LU60A or a very short L60.


----------



## jamesmtl514

excellent idea for a sticky AoW.
I've been thinking of creating something similar, I just haven't had time to sit down and work on it yet.

If you need help, in any capacity, let me know.


----------



## angelofwar

Chart updated...thanks for the feedback guys.


----------



## angelofwar

PCC said:


> So, where does the LU60 fit on the chart?


 
The LU60A is *the M2 Bezel with E-to-C adater for the scout lights.* The LU60 is the M2 bezel with the male/female adapter that screws into the MH90 Body. Not sure what the part is that attaches to the bezel on that...

I will point it out on the next interation of the of it though, PCC.


----------



## angelofwar

jamesmtl514 said:


> excellent idea for a sticky AoW.
> I've been thinking of creating something similar, I just haven't had time to sit down and work on it yet.
> 
> If you need help, in any capacity, let me know.


 Thanks james! Yeah, I'm doing this while I'm "over here", but will definitely work on it more when I can concentrate on it at home (and with a cold beer!) But, yeah, if anything's missing that you know of (I know there's alot), just shoot me a PM. Thanks again!


----------



## Mikeg23

Eric242 said:


> Here are two additional familiy pictures of my Surefire Legos:



What body is the black one on the end is that a P series head or E series?


----------



## Stillphoto

Looks like a 1x123a fivemega body with a p series head.


----------



## Mikeg23

Stillphoto said:


> Looks like a 1x123a fivemega body with a p series head.



Oh I thought it looked like the tailcap was built into the body


----------



## bigchelis

Leef C to C 18650 HA bodies are hard to get. So, I did one better.

Oveready.com Surefire Z2 in natural Type III. Its Super thin and 18650 compatible.














That is an Nailbender tower with XR-E R2 EZ900


----------



## Mikeg23

Stillphoto said:


> Looks like a 1x123a fivemega body with a p series head.



After looking again I think you are right so then what are the two different types of clips in his picture


----------



## Eric242

Stillphoto is right, it is a 1x123A body from five mega. Regarding the clip: It is an oveready tailcap shroud with clip (same shroud on one of the C2s). The other non surefire clips on the C2s are novatac edc clips.

Eric


----------



## PCC

angelofwar said:


> The LU60A is *the M2 Bezel with E-to-C adater for the scout lights.* The LU60 is the M2 bezel with the male/female adapter that screws into the MH90 Body. Not sure what the part is that attaches to the bezel on that...
> 
> I will point it out on the next interation of the of it though, PCC.


Thanks!


----------



## 1wrx7

Awsome chart A.O.W. 

I love legoing SF parts, and I use an old SF catalog to try to keep the parts straight. I love the color coding to try to make it more simple. Since SF only uses a few different thread types... it's not too hard to figure it out, but when I quit playing lego's for awhile... I forgetWhen you're looking into the universal weaponlight parts it can get tricky.


----------



## LightJunk

Here's the hard to get Leef C - C 18650 body with KT1 head and SW01 with AW soft start switch. Leef body was bought at lighthound.com beginning of this year.
















Another small lego of mine. A2L head, E1E body and E2DL tail cap.


----------



## ElectronGuru

jamesmtl514 said:


> To those with the Tan G2 Legos I dislike you in the nicest way possible....


----------



## jamesmtl514

and now more than before :twothumbs


----------



## LightJunk

Another lego of mine.


----------



## Kestrel

Edit: Thanks.
I really like that last one, BTW.


----------



## Loyen

LightJunk, what body is that?


----------



## jamesmtl514

looks to be the surefire 3P.


----------



## LightJunk

Loyen said:


> LightJunk, what body is that?



It's an L60 body.


----------



## Solscud007

jamesmtl514 said:


> looks to be the surefire 3P.




3P bodies do not have knurling. At least mine doesnt.


----------



## Monocrom

Solscud007 said:


> 3P bodies do not have knurling. At least mine doesnt.


 
Possibly a 1xCR123 FiveMega round body?


----------



## KuKu427

Nothing really special. Just a combination I find particularly appealing.


----------



## LightJunk

Monocrom said:


> Possibly a 1xCR123 FiveMega round body?



It's a knurled L60 body with an old style Z32 head. 

An aluminum ring is added to the tail caps internally and I add a spacer on top of the RCR123A :naughty:


----------



## Solscud007

Here is my latest Lego thanks to my recently acquired M962.

This is a 2xcell M3


----------



## Solscud007

Actually I must retract my previous statement. Well partially. The 3P does not have knurling. However my 3BL does.

Here are some pictures of my 1xCell legos. 











My "round 6P"









2way Solarforce clip on U2


----------



## Solscud007

Got some new toys today. G2X Pro. I love the nitrolon clicky tailcap. It works so well on my frankenstein G2Z


----------



## angelofwar

1wrx7 said:


> Awsome chart A.O.W.
> 
> I love legoing SF parts, and I use an old SF catalog to try to keep the parts straight. I love the color coding to try to make it more simple. Since SF only uses a few different thread types... it's not too hard to figure it out, but when I quit playing lego's for awhile... I forgetWhen you're looking into the universal weaponlight parts it can get tricky.



Thanks WRX! I updated the pic's to include the A13 and the dedicated fore end housing.


----------



## BIGLOU

Just got this Solarforce L2M from CPFer Roadie. Poormans 3PDL :naughty:
Here it is with a 6PDL strike bezel, SF Z59 with Moddoos "Thin Run" SS Clip, MD M61 on a AW RCR123.


----------



## PCC

Is this the ultimate Surefire Lego? Cut down Solarforce L2 bezel with stainless steel bezel ring, bored out LU60 to allow both an LED drop-in and an 18mm diameter battery, slightly shortened A21, and a stock Z41 twisty tail cap. The drop-in is a ThruNite XP-G reflector combined with a pill that came from a TLS TX-3 with an XP-G emitter purchased from KD and a Shiningbeam "perfect regulation" driver. Unfortunately, a CR123a primary doesn't have enough voltage to drive that driver in anything other than low mode. When I put on the Solarforce L2 rear body section (you get one if you take a Solarforce L2 body, boil it, then separate the two halves) I can then fit an 18650 Li-Ion and I get all three modes.






With the Solarforce L2 rear body section it's shorter than your average 6P. Here it is beside my G2X Pro and the G2XP is the same size as my 6PL.






I originally started this project to make the entire front section fit a modified Solarforce L2 tail cap that would be wired to an external battery pack to make a bike headlight. I still need to put those parts together to complete the project.


----------



## Kestrel

C'mon folks, this is the SureFire Lego thread.
*One* (out of three major) components *Solarforce*, ehhh...
*Two* out of three ...


----------



## Solscud007

Kestrel said:


> C'mon folks, this is the SureFire Lego thread.
> *One* (out of three major) components *Solarforce*, ehhh...
> *Two* out of three ...




Hey all my lego is all Surefire. "100% Surefire, Accept No Substitutes"


----------



## RobertM

Solscud007 said:


> Got some new toys today. G2X Pro. I love the nitrolon clicky tailcap. It works so well on my frankenstein G2Z



That looks really cool. What head is on this?


----------



## Solscud007

It is from a Surefire 8NX.


----------



## red_hackle




----------



## ronac

Here's my Surefire for now. I'll have a C2 body coming soon and hopefully I'll pull the trigger on a nicer drop in as well.


----------



## angelofwar

Awesome looking light Red-Hackle! I want an C-toM adapter so bad, but don't want to thrash a perfectly good KL3 to get one...the regualted runtime is too good.

Ronac, what alien spaceship did that head come from?


----------



## ronac

Shameful plug :shakehead

Cryos Cooling Head

Here's my other Surefire Lego. It's only kinda lego though.. Its like drilling holes in the bricks and screwing them together... Not sure if that still counts :nana:


----------



## angelofwar

Very nice! An HA Nat would look awesome on a C3/SWxx set-up!


----------



## ronac

Personally, I like the black HA a lot more so I'll probably make the C2 black. I'm not entirely decided on the tail cap yet though but its Lego! so I can change it whenever I want!


----------



## Captain Spaulding

Here are a couple of mine:

SF LX2 body with C2 HA head, Vital gear E to C adapter, and Malkoff M60 (Two speed now)






SF E2DL body (White Cerakoted) with 6PDL head, Xeno bezel, LX2 long reversible clip, Vital Gear E to C adapter and ThruNite XM-L


----------



## angelofwar

I know these pics got lost, cause the post got deleted since when I was in Iraq, so, here it is again:

This first one is for Al/Size-15

A 12Volt millenium series weapon light (These used to be known as M98x's), and basically uses what was then an LU20.






Here's a KL3 on a Kroma






And a KL5 on an MH90 (M951L???) (P.S. I Love making up my own SF model numbers BTW!)






M961L? (KL6 with LU10/15 adapter and KL6 head)






Heres a Lego I'm really proud of...I'll call this a 9ZR (9Z w/ A20)






And a 918L??? LOL!






Since the P60L's weren't out at the time, this could be called a 9ZL (9Z w/ KL3)






This one looks awesome...too bad I got rid of my Z32...probably my most visually appealling lego to date...






G2D-OD Mil-Spec???






G2D-TN Mil-Spec






G3T






318K






G-Elmo-DF-BK-RD (DF=Double Fist)





(OK, that one was just a joke..BUT, the Elmo was my sons first flashlight!!!)


----------



## Eric242

I just finished this one about two weeks ago:


----------



## red_hackle

Eric242 said:


> I just finished this one about two weeks ago


 
You continue to inspire me, Eric! That's an awesome combination.


----------



## Kif

I finally got all parts I need for this M3 pocket rocket.
NB SST50 D36 dropin + Z46 + LU10 + A21 + Z58


----------



## angelofwar

Nice Kif! Now you just need to send your A21 off to EG to get it finished in HA-NAT! Do you have a combat ring you could throw on the A21? I'd like to see a pic of that if you do. Never thought to build a 2-Cell M3!


----------



## angelofwar

A few "real" diagrams added to my post in my sig since the "Big Bang"

660/L60 compatibility






And Millenium Weapon Light Configs...
















And handhelds...


----------



## angelofwar

Just got my old-school KL2, so figured I'd do some LEGO pics of it...

First up (and the best looking) is on an M4 (this will work with a CR123 spacer)






And on the M6...Horrible Looking...but, if you get 3 batteries in there the right way, you can run it (or even off of 2 with a spacer...






And finally, the only light this KL2 belongs on (Since it's probably as old) is my Laser Products M3 (w/ Cross Hairs), S/N A00308. (Turned out crappy...will try to get a better pic...)






Will also try to get some pics of this on my M96x and 918FA. Oh, this head runs fine on a B65 BTW...not sure of the specs though...


----------



## Z-Tab

E2B?





E1B Clip and Tailcap on an E2D body. VME head with Malkoff M61HCRI.


----------



## Kestrel

Z-Tab said:


> E1B Clip and Tailcap on an E2D body. VME head with Malkoff M61HCRI.


That's a really nice-looking combination of parts, visually very striking. :thumbsup:


----------



## Tempest UK

Nice M3 and KL2 combo, AOW 

Here's mine: an old M3 with a KL2-CB:






The lights in the background were just the ones sitting on my bedside table. I kid you not. You can never have too many lights on your bedside table.


----------



## angelofwar

Nice Tempest! Looks even better with the CB! I've seen two versions of this M3 body with that etching. One has the new(er) SF Logo and one has the Cross hairs. Which is yers? Just tryin' to gauge how many of these were made with the Cross Hair "Laser Products" Etchings on the other side.

Here's a better picture of mine (and my failed attempt to make it look as good as yours...my camera sucks, but I do have 4 years of Photography...LOL)


----------



## Tempest UK

It's the newer one without the crosshairs. I really like the old SureFire anodising like on your M3. Almost a sand colour. Interestingly some of the newer lights have gone back to something similar to that, like the M3LT behind it in your photo


----------



## ElectronGuru

angelofwar said:


> (and my failed attempt to make it look as good as yours...my camera sucks



You're already there, just turn off the flash!


----------



## angelofwar

ElectronGuru said:


> You're already there, just turn off the flash!


 
I think my light sensor is jacked...it doesn't have an over-ride, and it will say "not enough light" or the image stabilizer makes the pic all blurry without the flash. I drink alot of coffee...LOL! But thanks for the compliment!

@ Tempest, I'm with you on the Bronze Colored Surefires, and glad to see some of these new batches coming out that way.


----------



## Eric242




----------



## BIGLOU

Up playing Legos with my bored out LU60. I know probably this one has been done. I didnt feel like going through 20 pages.

Bored LU60 on A21 with Black Xeno bezeled HA C2 head and SW02 rocking a M60


----------



## Kif

Here is my another Surefire LEGO
I like the funny "big head" looking
I am thinking to get a Malkoff M31 in this LEGO, but I like brighter. :devil: Any suggestion?


----------



## angelofwar

Nice Kif!!!


----------



## shao.fu.tzer

Kif said:


> Here is my another Surefire LEGO
> I like the funny "big head" looking
> I am thinking to get a Malkoff M31 in this LEGO, but I like brighter. :devil: Any suggestion?



If you want bright, go for a Manafont XM-L 3-mode, although I'm not sure the tailcap could withstand the current for too long. I have a similar light that uses a Vital Gear FB1, E2C adapter, and Z44 with a Solarforce XP-G R5 3-mode low voltage drop in and it performs admirably... Much brighter than a Malkoff, with, of course, lowered reliability. Although honestly if you have the time, resoldering, recentering, repasting and potting a cheap drop in will make it perfectly bomb proof.


----------



## LightJunk

Here's another lego of mine. LM2-BK and SW02 tail cap.


----------



## Solscud007

Due to Carrot's Incan challenge, I was testing to see if I could dual stage an incan. I used my teardrop E1E head, MN02, and my L1 body. Sadly no stepping of light output. But it works.


----------



## Meganoggin

Just tried my two stage Aleph tail cap on an Incan E2E and no dimming either. Worked fine otherwise.


----------



## Solscud007

Im not surprised. Incans, afaik, are not that flexible with varying currents as LEDs are known for. It would be cool but necessary.


----------



## red_hackle

My latest creation toying around with some newly acquired parts... :huh:


----------



## LE6920

red_hackle said:


> My latest creation toying around with some newly acquired parts... :huh:



Nice, C to M body? What are you running in there for batteries and bulb?


----------



## Eric242

Gorgeous Leef body :thumbsup: I guess it´s the reason why the 1x18650 C2M Fivemega had to go.

Eric


----------



## red_hackle

LE6920 said:


> Nice, C to M body? What are you running in there for batteries and bulb?


 
Yep - the head is the older ribbed version of the M3 head and holds a Nailbender D36 XML drop-in with two modes. Runs on 1 protected cell only. 



Eric242 said:


> Gorgeous Leef body :thumbsup: I guess it´s the reason why the 1x18650 C2M Fivemega had to go.
> 
> Eric



Indeed - can't hold on to them all!


----------



## Sparky's Magic

E2E Old Body (three flats) 1X17670 AW. Z68 Tail. Malkoff VME Head with M61L. HA111. Bright & efficient! :thumbsup:


----------



## Solscud007

Finally got my hands on a c-m adapter. Bring out the goofy 3P mutations!!!


----------



## jdboy

Here's my 6P host, A19 extension, Triad tail cap, Z44 bezel w/Oveready ring, SolarForce lanyard ring, and an Oveready Triple/P60 3 mode drop in!!


----------



## JKL

My SF Lego 





















_JKL_


----------



## bigchelis

E-series Incandescent bezel with E-18650 hosts.


----------



## Dioni

Solscud007 said:


> Finally got my hands on a c-m adapter. Bring out the goofy 3P mutations!!!



Very nice! :thumbsup:


----------



## Eric242

Not much left of the Surefire part...but hey, at least it has a 6PD head on it´s shoulders  Skullcandy (this one is waiting for a black cryos...)


----------



## angelofwar

Eric242 said:


> Not much left of the Surefire part...but hey, at least it has a 6PD head on it´s shoulders  Skullcandy (this one is waiting for a black cryos...)


 
Verynice Eric! I really like the Red on black!


----------



## jdboy




----------



## Solscud007

Eric242 said:


> Not much left of the Surefire part...but hey, at least it has a 6PD head on it´s shoulders  Skullcandy (this one is waiting for a black cryos...)



What body is that?


----------



## Eric242

It´s a Fivemega body.

Eric


----------



## flashmenow

This tiny one count ? It's a E2D head on a Vital Gear 1 cell body . :naughty:








Excuse the dirty hand doing some yard doing some cleaning !


----------



## LightJunk

Here's another lego of mine.


----------



## LightJunk

Sorry. Double post.


----------



## ebow86

I don't mind a little bit of mismatched ano but thats a little too much for my tastes, the KT turbohead that is.. Lightjunk, what LA are you running in there?


----------



## LightJunk

Originally running a LF HO-M3T lamp together with a 2X18650 Leef body. With a single RCR123 in a 3P body the output is dim.


----------



## Captain Spaulding

Trying to track down a black triad for this Z3 with KT1/2 2X IMR 1850 with LF IMR M3T. Then get the whole thing cerakoted graphite black. My ultimate incan lego :thumsup:


----------



## seattlite




----------



## Sparky's Magic

"



An excellent pair: Malkoff VME heads, M31W., M61L., Z61, Z68, CR123, AW17670. :thumbsup:


----------



## Viper715

@seattlite, How did you get the E2DL head on the Z2 body? Very interesting!


----------



## DimeRazorback

It is an AZ2 body :thumbsup:


----------



## Viper715

Awesome makes sense now.


----------



## jamesmtl514

Left to right.
Bored Cerakote C3 3x16340 with Z59-HA clicky and Defender head with M91W 
G2-FYL with Cerakote tail and head, M61
G2-Tan with black nicrolon head and tail.
C2 with Z59-BK clicky and KT1 with Nailbender CREE XP-G HIGH CRI dropin. 2x16340





Will be sure to post pics of my MONSTER lego project....


----------



## seattlite

DimeRazorback said:


> It is an AZ2 body :thumbsup:





Viper715 said:


> Awesome makes sense now.


 
Yeah...it is an AZ2-S body. C-tailcap, and E series head.


----------



## Terai

Solscud007 said:


> Finally got my hands on a c-m adapter. Bring out the goofy 3P mutations!!!


 
I'm kind of new to the surefire scene, Could someone care what the body of this is ?
i can see the SW01 tailcap , the C-M converter, KT4 turbohead, but can't make out the rest


----------



## Size15's

Terai said:


> I'm kind of new to the surefire scene, Could someone care what the body of this is ?
> i can see the SW01 tailcap , the C-M converter, KT4 turbohead, but can't make out the rest



The photo shows a Millennium TurboHead NOT the KT4 TurboHead Kit. Theoretically it could a KT4 since it's not possible to be certain based on the photo that there isn't either an MN15 or MN16 Lamp Assembly inside. That said, since the Kit features both the MN15 and MN16 and given that the Millennium TurboHead can only hold one Lamp Assembly at a time, it is technically wrong to refer to the Millennium TurboHead and MN15 or MN16 as the KT4 since the KT4 is a Kit and you can't make use of all the parts of the kit at the same time on the same flashlight.

The KT4 TurboHead Kit is the TurboHead Kit No.4 consisting of the Millennium TurboHead and MN15 & MN16 Lamp Assemblies.


----------



## Terai

Size15's said:


> The photo shows a Millennium TurboHead NOT the KT4 TurboHead Kit. Theoretically it could a KT4 since it's not possible to be certain based on the photo that there isn't either an MN15 or MN16 Lamp Assembly inside. That said, since the Kit features both the MN15 and MN16 and given that the Millennium TurboHead can only hold one Lamp Assembly at a time, it is technically wrong to refer to the Millennium TurboHead and MN15 or MN16 as the KT4 since the KT4 is a Kit and you can't make use of all the parts of the kit at the same time on the same flashlight.
> 
> The KT4 TurboHead Kit is the TurboHead Kit No.4 consisting of the Millennium TurboHead and MN15 & MN16 Lamp Assemblies.



Thnx for the heads up about the head  but could you tell me what the body is ? i haven't seen anything like this before ==


----------



## teach9213

My lego~~~


----------



## red_hackle

teach9213 said:


> My lego~~~


 
Very cool! :thumbsup:


----------



## Solscud007

Terai said:


> Thnx for the heads up about the head  but could you tell me what the body is ? i haven't seen anything like this before ==


 

I used a Surefire 3P. If you read the first sentence of that post I said "goofy 3P mutations" in reference to the SF 3P body.


----------



## Xacto

Although it is still missing a dropin, I finally got a Surefire 3P a few weeks ago. And I am more then pleased with the feel of the light. Small, round, slick (in a positive way), I really look forward to getting my first OG Surefire 6P (with the old head and hopefully the old tailcap with the big button and an the loose inner parts).

It just feels great in your hand, even though I do have quite some 6P, 9P, Z2 hosts, the 3P is just a pleasure to grab while browsing the web.

Cheers
Thorsten


----------



## Terai

Solscud007 said:


> I used a Surefire 3P. If you read the first sentence of that post I said "goofy 3P mutations" in reference to the SF 3P body.


 
sorry >< didn't pick up on that d: great looking mutants though


----------



## LightJunk

My latest lego LM20 CB and M6 tail cap spotting an FM MN Bi pin with WA1185 powered by 3 AW IMR16340.


----------



## red_hackle

That is so cool...!


----------



## teach9213

* SUREFIRE M961 Head & Adaptor
* Custom CR123 Extender
* TNC Detonator Extender
* SW01 Clicky Tailcap


----------



## 2000xlt

what head is that


foxtrot824 said:


> Gotta love the Legos, especially the single cell ones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My current EDC triple


----------



## Kif

LightJunk said:


> My latest lego LM20 CB and M6 tail cap spotting an FM MN Bi pin with WA1185 powered by 3 AW IMR16340.



What battery holder do you use?


----------



## LightJunk

Kif said:


> What battery holder do you use?



Surefire MB10. You will need the spacer(wrapped in black tape) and a spacer ring to make contact with the body.


----------



## Kif

Wow, MB10 is hard to get now


----------



## Kestrel

LightJunk said:


> My latest lego LM20 CB and M6 tail cap spotting an FM MN Bi pin with WA1185 powered by 3 AW IMR16340.


That is very very cool. An M6mini


----------



## Eric242

With the arrival of the last missing part, the Moddoolar TL34 body, I was able to finish this little bugger yesterday.





















Surefire Z41-HA + Z44-HA, Moddoolar TL34 Body + Triple XP-G R5 V3 Dropin, Oveready McClicky Upgrade + Delrin Tailcap Shroud with SS-Clip, GG&G TID.


----------



## Helmut.G

LightJunk said:


> My latest lego LM20 CB and M6 tail cap spotting an FM MN Bi pin with WA1185 powered by 3 AW IMR16340.


That's incredibly cool!


----------



## T45

SPECIAL REQUEST!!!.....Could someone post a picture of 9P body with the old version M2 head? Pretty Please? Cherry on top?


----------



## angelofwar

Time to add to the LEGO thread once more...

Here's a few Weaponlight Lego's I recently concocted. All are functional, BTW.

Scout light with L1-Red head (actually thought about putting this on my AR for a "Nav light")






Since the KX9 IS compatible with 12 volts...an M4L-S???






An M981L???






M961L






A 12-V 660 something or another with an old school TH and a nail bender tower :devil:






An M961 w/ KL2






Shown here set-up to run off a B65






Not a lego back then, but with the discontinuing of the M97x series, here it is for old times sakes:






Another 660 variant, running off a B65!






And, finally, my Nailbender 3PTL, I guess? Funny thing is, is that it works!






Enjoy! :shakehead


----------



## jamesmtl514

Some very nice and rare legos here.
How are you getting the 3PTL to work?


----------



## angelofwar

Thanks James. The 3PTL, or 3PTLM, etc. al., is using special tower I had nail bender build for me...Runs off 3.2-14.9 volts, and is very effecient on 6 volts (i.e. my B65's that I like to run it on). So, with a tail-cap, LU10 adapter, and an M-Series Turbo-Head, I have a very short, low lumen, pocket rocket...that is very impractical, to say the least.


----------



## jamesmtl514

I put on a little 3P fashion show this afternoon.


----------



## tx101

Surefire M1 Novatac Lego















:naughty:


----------



## Meganoggin

That looks really nice TX, how's the beam?


----------



## tx101

Not had a chance to ask the chap who modded the light but it appears the reflector
is a McGizmo one. I supplied a XPG R4 5C tint LED which gives out a lovely vanilla/yellow beam
The board is a 1400mA AMC 7135 and I find the high output is a little too bright for my tastes.
Other than that, the beam is nice and smooth.


----------



## jamesmtl514

And the award for most over the top bombproof E1e goes tooooooooo.


----------



## s85sss

one of my favorite thread! 








Eric242 said:


>



what is that switch?


----------



## DM51

s85sss said:


> what is that switch?


SureFire SW01. 

Yours, in the pic above, is an SW02.


----------



## s85sss

in black?
looked like a copy...


----------



## DM51

Very good point! I haven't heard of a black SW01. That could be the photo, I suppose, but you are right - it definitely looks BK.

I think we'll need Size15's expertise and knowledge to resolve this one!


----------



## Monocrom

DM51 said:


> Very good point! I haven't heard of a black SW01. That could be the photo, I suppose, but you are right - it definitely looks BK.
> 
> I think we'll need Size15's expertise and knowledge to resolve this one!



Hope Al chimes in as well. 

There might be another possibility though . . . It could be the momentary tailcap off of an old Solarforce L600 model. I have the light. (Piece of junk.) But the tailcap is actually excellent, and looks exactly like the one in the pic.


----------



## jamesmtl514

I remember him saying it was a solarforce tail a while back.


----------



## Monocrom

That's most likely it. I recall Solarforce made a clicky variation of the same tailcap design. It had a longer base than the momentary version though. The clicky was sold seperately, and was also a piece of junk. The excellent momentary version though was never sold as a seperate item and soon vanished when Solarforce stopped selling the L600 model. 

Judging by the pic above, that's the shorter-base momentary tailcap.


----------



## angelofwar

I wanted it say it wasn't an SF, just by looking at the ano. It looks like "textured" type-II (meant to look like type-III).


----------



## Eric242

jamesmtl514 said:


> I remember him saying it was a solarforce tail a while back.


Liar  I never said such a thing and never owned a Solarforce light :nana:

Actually it is not a SW01 but the switch of the G&P Scorpion R500. An exact copy of the SW01 slim, press for momentary - turn for constant on, just in black. 

Eric


----------



## Monocrom

Eric242 said:


> Liar  I never said such a thing and never owned a Solarforce light :nana:
> 
> Actually it is not a SW01 but the switch of the G&P Scorpion R500. An exact copy of the SW01 slim, press for momentary - turn for constant on, just in black.
> 
> Eric



Yup, forgot about that. Solarforce and Ultrafire did blatantly rip off the G&P Scorpion model. Apparently even right down to the SureFire based tailcap.


----------



## Kif

Built this Lego recently
Surefire M2 matte black bezel + Moddoolar 2x18650 body + Z59 matte black tail cap + Malkoff M60 drip-in


----------



## angelofwar

Sexy Kif!


----------



## LightJunk

My Mini U2 Ultra.
















Enjoy.
LJ


----------



## angelofwar

Nice Light Junk! And it actually powers up??? Is there a CR2 in there? Or a coin cell?


----------



## angelofwar

s85sss said:


> one of my favorite thread!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what is that switch?



Whoa! What bezel is that??? Looks liek a factory HA-Nat Z32. Was that from a weaponlight?


----------



## LightJunk

Thanks AOW.

Yup this baby lit up but more on the dimmer side. It uses 2 1616 lithium coin cell at 3V each.


----------



## angelofwar

LightJunk said:


> Thanks AOW.
> 
> Yup this baby lit up but more on the dimmer side. It uses 2 1616 lithium coin cell at 3V each.



I guess when the zombies come and you burn thru all your primaries, you can scavenge coin cells and still have light! LOL! I've done this with an A21 and 1 primary, and was able to get light. SF legos...gotta love it!


----------



## ElectronGuru

angelofwar said:


> Whoa! What bezel is that??? Looks liek a factory HA-Nat Z32.



To my knowledge there are three generations of the z32

The one shown above (snap in lens)
The 'ribbed' version
The current version


----------



## angelofwar

ElectronGuru said:


> To my knowledge there are three generations of the z32
> 
> The one shown above (snap in lens)
> The 'ribbed' version
> The current version



Thanks EG...I've seen his version...I have two of them..but they're black...I've never seen a factory HA verion...plus, my black ones don't have that "dip" between the vertical grip like his does...this must be from a VERY early version of the M95Xxx I'm guessing??? Or an old pistol light???


----------



## DaFABRICATA

angelofwar said:


> Thanks EG...I've seen his version...I have two of them..but they're black...I've never seen a factory HA verion...plus, my black ones don't have that "dip" between the vertical grip like his does...this must be from a VERY early version of the M95Xxx I'm guessing??? Or an old pistol light???




A.O.W. is correct.:thumbsup:
The bezel is from the W-series 6 volt weaponlight, such as the W117 pistol light.
It looks really nice on a first generation HAIII round body 6P.:naughty:


----------



## Tana

One of the best threads ever...







From left to right:

Nailbender XML U2 2x18500
EDC+ X60L T6 1x18650
Malkoff M61 2xCR123 (host from all genuine SF parts except for TnC E2C)
LX2 head 2xCR123 (host from all genuine SF parts)
Malkoff M91 2x17500 (host from all genuine SF parts except for bezel to allow no gap)


----------



## Kestrel

Tana said:


>



Hello, wait a minute. An LX2 with Z-series grip rings? That combines two of my three favorite SureFire features into a single light, what a great idea. :thumbsup:


----------



## Monocrom

Kestrel said:


> Hello, wait a minute. An LX2 with Z-series grip rings? That combines two of my three favorite SureFire features into a single light, what a great idea. :thumbsup:



The LX2 head is over to your right. That's a Z44 bezel on that LX2 body.


----------



## Tana

Tell me about it... it's been my fav EDC for the past 5-6 days, I just swapped M61 with M61W for better tint...

What's your third favorite Surefire feature ??? Hope it's not CLICKY MODE... :naughty:


----------



## nein166

Great thread can't believe I've missed it all these years
Time to play Lego






U2 modded with 4 xp-e, mh90, and solarforce tape switch with forward clicky


----------



## Helmut.G

Voila, the two-headed 9AN P60 LED conversion:












Running a warm-white XR-E direct drive + the incandescent low beam on 1xCR123+1xRCR123 (the big bulb is blown on that LA).
I didn't know how far I could go voltage wise until , 2xRCR123 would likely work as well, just didn't want to risk anything.

Using a DD drop-in because i suspect the bulb wouldn't be too fond of a regulated driver in series.

When running 1x18650 only the LED is lit up, the incan bulb glows slightly when the battery is 100% but fades away while current drops.


----------



## nein166

Wow Helmut.G thats like a Conjoined Heteropaternal superfecundation of Surefires


----------



## Helmut.G

I don't have any surefire turboheads  but I think it would look cool with a KT3-Turbohead at the front and a KT1/2-TH at the back end.


----------



## Eric242

Equal rights to the people on both ends of the light: the one who´s getting the "usual" business end into the face as well as the one who´s holding the light are getting blinded 

Definitly an interesting and unusual mod!

Eric


----------



## CLBME

Here are a couple of mine thanks to TNC products and Bugsy714 for the C2. The E1e has a M31 in it and the C2 a M61. The TNC bezel is my first aftermarket bezel. It's awesome.


----------



## cland72

It's not the fluorescent yellow, but the flash in the 2nd pic made it look like it!


----------



## jamesmtl514

nice Chris. It almost tan in the first pic


----------



## ficklampa

Z41 tailcap, Z44 head and 3BL body. Lumens factory D26-LED (CREE XR-E R2) drop in. And a SF combat ring. A bit brigther than the 6PLD I have actually.


----------



## cland72

Poor man's M3


----------



## CLBME

Well my E1e and Z44 morphed into this................not sure if it still qualifies because there isn't any Surefire left. Thanks Oveready (Moddoolar slim body, P60 interface, triad tail) and TnC (Bezel)!


----------



## TMedina

Two part question:
1. Does anyone know of someone who modifies the old, stock pocket clips into the lanyard attachment points?
2. Does anyone know of anyone who makes aftermarket pocket clips for the old, stock clips? Perhaps the newer recurve clip in ti?

Thanks,
-Trevor

Eta: This lanyard modification was developed by McGizmo - posted to CPF. A link to the concept is here. Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment, tools, or skills to do it myself.


----------



## T45

Hmmm.....now that's an idea.


----------



## T45

My first Surefire Lego: 9P with a M2 Ribbed head.


----------



## brucejiang

the most difficult part in legoing is find a matching tailcap or bezel

the 4-Flat L1 seems do not qualify for a lego in this thread, however, the bezel is the latest 6th generation with 65/10lm output


----------



## Solscud007

My mini porky killer.


----------



## warubozu

CLBME said:


> Here are a couple of mine thanks to TNC products and Bugsy714 for the C2. The E1e has a M31 in it and the C2 a M61. The TNC bezel is my first aftermarket bezel. It's awesome.



What type of head is on the C2?


----------



## archimedes

warubozu said:


> What type of head is on the C2?



I believe that's the TnC bezel....


----------



## CLBME

Archimedes nailed in on the head..... It's made by Chris at TnC. 



warubozu said:


> What type of head is on the C2?





archimedes said:


> I believe that's the TnC bezel....


----------



## warubozu

Thanks, some very cool SF legos in this thread.


----------



## ficklampa

Had to put the original 3BL-head on my lego since the Z44 almost crushed the drop in. Didn't want to risk damaging it if I dropped the light or overtightened it.


----------



## eg1977




----------



## bouncer33441

g2 body
cryos crenulated head
z58 clicky and cree xml dropin
soon to be a bored 6P or c2 body


----------



## bouncer33441

bouncer33441 said:


> g2 body
> cryos crenulated head
> z58 clicky and cree xml dropin
> soon to be a bored 6P or c2 body


AND I FORGOT I WILL ALSO ADD A TRIAD TAILCAP WITH EITHER A MCLICKY FETTIE OR ZERO REZ SO A A P60 TRIPLE OR QUAD CAN BE DROPPED IN


----------



## Eisenhower

Just have a normal E1D ... My favorite EDC ..


----------



## cland72

Has anyone done a Malkoff VME head & M61 on a Surefire A2L? I'm thinking the two stage switch would work well with it. 

I really need to get my A2L bored for 17670. It's a great light, but I rarely use it since I'm running mostly rechargeables.


----------



## Helmut.G

cland72 said:


> I really need to get my A2L bored for 17670. It's a great light, but I rarely use it since I'm running mostly rechargeables.


off-topic here but have you seen the 16 mm diameter Li-Ions?
tested here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...iew-of-Intl-outdoor-Sanyo-16650-2100mAh-(Red)


----------



## Solscud007

A new option for Lego. E1B-AA body by Fire Kylin. The E1B like head and tailcap are on the E1-BK body below.


----------



## It01Firefox

cland72 said:


> Has anyone done a Malkoff VME head & M61 on a Surefire A2L? I'm thinking the two stage switch would work well with it.


I tried a VME with M61w on my A2L last night and it worked fine with two levels. Unfortunately I don't have an MD2 with two stage ring, so I can' tell if the levels are the same.


----------



## brucejiang

my latest one


----------



## RI Chevy

Looks like the engraver needs to learn how to spell!


----------



## red_hackle

Just took a picture of the current state of my M2 lego lights...


----------



## LE6920

red_hackle said:


> Just took a picture of the current state of my M2 lego lights...


 
Nice, what adapter are you using to get those M3 bezels on the C2 bodies? Details on bulb setup?


----------



## red_hackle

LE6920 said:


> Nice, what adapter are you using to get those M3 bezels on the C2 bodies? Details on bulb setup?








This one has been assembled with a Surefire adapter that was removed from a KL3 head (before you order one to do the same, please note that these are glued and removal will not always work). The bezel is still in stock condition and runs a LED tower instead of a bulb.






This one uses a Leef adapter. It's actually without light engine at the moment - I am still undecided on the perfect setup and have a WTB out for another LED tower.


----------



## cland72

E1B body with E2DL tailcap and E2D head. Just need a Veleno Designs drop in to go with it...


----------



## brucejiang

My latest projects

6P-BK customized to a golden colour...., this time, I use a genuine one


----------



## brucejiang

red_hackle said:


> This one has been assembled with a Surefire adapter that was removed from a KL3 head (before you order one to do the same, please note that these are glued and removal will not always work). The bezel is still in stock condition and runs a LED tower instead of a bulb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one uses a Leef adapter. It's actually without light engine at the moment - I am still undecided on the perfect setup and have a WTB out for another LED tower.



fantastic LEGO projects!:thumbsup:

Try XP-E tower will gain reasonable throw


----------



## brucejiang

RI Chevy said:


> Looks like the engraver needs to learn how to spell!



:shrug:you are right, infact, it is a replica...made by JETBEAM...

The only advantage is its HAIII finish, and of course a good 18650 host


----------



## red_hackle

brucejiang said:


> fantastic LEGO projects!:thumbsup:
> 
> Try XP-E tower will gain reasonable throw



Thanks for the kind words! Any idea where to source a XP-E tower from? I've been looking for a while...


----------



## Helmut.G




----------



## Mikeg23

Solscud007 said:


> A new option for Lego. E1B-AA body by Fire Kylin. The E1B like head and tailcap are on the E1-BK body below.



Never heard of them that's pretty crazy...


----------



## Kestrel

Helmut.G said:


>


_*Finally*_ we have a Nitrolon light that could actually melt. :thumbsup:


----------



## Helmut.G

Running a 3W XR-E warm white drop-in so there's not really a danger


----------



## brucejiang

red_hackle said:


> Thanks for the kind words! Any idea where to source a XP-E tower from? I've been looking for a while...



I think KUKU still selling the XPG version, you may ask him for a replacement of XPE.


----------



## fresh eddie fresh

cland72 said:


> Has anyone done a Malkoff VME head & M61 on a Surefire A2L? I'm thinking the two stage switch would work well with it.



When I used to have an A2L I did it with the VME, and the different levels worked, they were pretty close to each other in brightness (same results with my LX2.) Using an AZ2 tailcap on a 9P, you can put an M91 in it and it has the same brightness as an M61 on low (a different beam pattern, though.)


----------



## tobrien

is there any difference whatsoever between the C2 and M2 bodies except for the printed text?


----------



## archimedes

tobrien said:


> is there any difference whatsoever between the C2 and M2 bodies except for the printed text?



No, I don't believe so ... nor the L5 tube, for that matter


----------



## beach honda

Body wise, no difference...but methinks the M series lights come with dual tail o rings.


----------



## ElectronGuru

+1

From an original purchase standpoint, 

the C2 came with:
Z44, body, Z41, P60, batteries, lanyard

the M2 came with
Z32, body, Z41, P60, P61, batteries, lanyard


----------



## tobrien

thanks guys!


----------



## eg1977

*9P Lego with XML Drop-in*


----------



## T45

Solscud007 said:


> A new option for Lego. E1B-AA body by Fire Kylin. The E1B like head and tailcap are on the E1-BK body below.



I really like that KM2 head!


----------



## think2x

*Re: 9P Lego with XML Drop-in*



eg1977 said:


>



Love this setup, had one like it over a year ago and miss it.


----------



## eg1977

*Re: 9P Lego with XML Drop-in*



think2x said:


> Love this setup, had one like it over a year ago and miss it.



I have it listed for sale on marketplace


----------



## tobrien

*Re: 9P Lego with XML Drop-in*

can yall answer what may be my last question: so besides supposed shock absorption, is the M2 bezel much different from the Z44 bezels? iirc i've heard yall mention there's a lot more room in the M2 combat bezels and no cutoff on the beam like a z44 might have?

and is there a difference insofar as function between the Malkoff and Oveready M2 adapters for P60 drop-in modules?


----------



## ElectronGuru

*Re: 9P Lego with XML Drop-in*



tobrien said:


> can yall answer what may be my last question: so besides supposed shock absorption, is the M2 bezel much different from the Z44 bezels? iirc i've heard yall mention there's a lot more room in the M2 combat bezels and no cutoff on the beam like a z44 might have?



The M2/32 bezel is both longer and wider than the 44. The shock absorber protects incan bulbs from the recoil introduced by weapon mounted use. Lamps are 'recessed' from the glass (providing the compression space), increasing cutoff vs the 44. Its the Cryos/32 that reduces cutoff (no recoil protection).




tobrien said:


> is there a difference insofar as function between the Malkoff and Oveready M2 adapters for P60 drop-in modules?



Malkoff adapters push against the factory shock absorber, pre compressing it. This is enough for the springs on most drop ins. Dropins with powerful springs (like the Triple) push against batteries to much force for this setup, so the OR adapter replaces the factory shock absorber (harder to install/remove), keeping the drop in properly seated in the socket.


----------



## shao.fu.tzer

*Re: 9P Lego with XML Drop-in*

No one's posted any legos in awhile so I thought I'd post one that I made last night for my daughter to carry while we searched for our missing cat... Surprised no one's posted it... Plain old E2D with Surefire E2C (from LU60A) and KX3 head... Horrible balance but the ano matches pretty nicely and it works...


----------



## tobrien

*Re: 9P Lego with XML Drop-in*



ElectronGuru said:


> The M2/32 bezel is both longer and wider than the 44. The shock absorber protects incan bulbs from the recoil introduced by weapon mounted use. Lamps are 'recessed' from the glass (providing the compression space), increasing cutoff vs the 44. Its the Cryos/32 that reduces cutoff (no recoil protection).
> 
> Malkoff adapters push against the factory shock absorber, pre compressing it. This is enough for the springs on most drop ins. Dropins with powerful springs (like the Triple) push against batteries to much force for this setup, so the OR adapter replaces the factory shock absorber (harder to install/remove), keeping the drop in properly seated in the socket.



thanks for the in-depth response, sorry i'm so late on this. so is there no real layperson benefit to an M2 bezel unless you like the looks?


----------



## jamesmtl514

I find the M2 head on a 2 cell light ads nice weight. It's more comfortable to hold and it looks nicer.

It does feel like it's stronger than the z44


----------



## 880arm

*Re: 9P Lego with XML Drop-in*



tobrien said:


> thanks for the in-depth response, sorry i'm so late on this. so is there no real layperson benefit to an M2 bezel unless you like the looks?



Not much. I suppose it would be a little bit more resistant to rolling due to the slightly longer flat surfaces but that's about it (aside from the appearance).


----------



## ElectronGuru

From the stand point of P60 drop ins, it's major plus is the extra heat sinking mass. Even without direct contact, heat goes drop > body > bezel.

Real functional advantage though requires something custom with a larger reflector.


----------



## Eric242

*Re: 9P Lego with XML Drop-in*



shao.fu.tzer said:


> Horrible balance but the ano matches pretty nicely and it works...


....and doesn´t look too bad either. I like it!

Eric


----------



## Silgt

ElectronGuru said:


> Real functional advantage though requires something custom with a larger reflector.



M2-50?


----------



## jamesmtl514

I want an M2-50!


----------



## 880arm

Picked up a beautiful KL3-BK and Z49 on the marketplace (thanks eg1977!). They are just the ticket to give a Z2 a little attitude :thumbsup:








fresh eddie fresh said:


> When I used to have an A2L I did it with the VME, and the different levels worked, they were pretty close to each other in brightness (same results with my LX2.) Using an AZ2 tailcap on a 9P, you can put an M91 in it and it has the same brightness as an M61 on low (a different beam pattern, though.)



The AZ2 was the first light I used with my VME head. Like you said, the brightness levels aren't drastically different with an M61 but they are noticeably different. I suspect that it does make a fair difference to battery life though I haven't tested this.

The neck of the VME is actually smaller than the AZ2 body where they meet so it's not as nice a fit as it is on other lights. It doesn't look bad but you can tell there's a little mismatch.


----------



## Solscud007

Does this combo provide two modes?





880arm said:


> Picked up a beautiful KL3-BK and Z49 on the marketplace (thanks eg1977!). They are just the ticket to give a Z2 a little attitude :thumbsup:
> 
> The AZ2 was the first light I used with my VME head. Like you said, the brightness levels aren't drastically different with an M61 but they are noticeably different. I suspect that it does make a fair difference to battery life though I haven't tested this.
> 
> The neck of the VME is actually smaller than the AZ2 body where they meet so it's not as nice a fit as it is on other lights. It doesn't look bad but you can tell there's a little mismatch.


----------



## 880arm

Solscud007 said:


> Does this combo provide two modes?



Yes, there are two modes but they are more like medium/high than low/high. In a ceiling bounce test, "low" mode on the AZ2 was about 63% of high mode. Running the same test with an LX2, "low" mode is lower at 38% of high mode. By comparison, low mode on an MD2 w/ Hi/Lo ring is about 10-11% of high mode.

Doing some simple math, the results seem to indicate that the low modes on the AZ2 (260 * 63% = 161 lumens) and LX2 (260 * 38% = 97 lumens) would be in the ballpark of the M61L and M61LL respectively. However, I don't own either of those Malkoffs so I have no way of verifying this.


----------



## beach honda

880,

that C2/SW01/KL3 setup looks killer. Can I get a clear shot of it?

thanks... Here's what I've been lugging around this week:


----------



## 880arm

beach honda said:


> 880,
> 
> that C2/SW01/KL3 setup looks killer. Can I get a clear shot of it?
> 
> thanks... Here's what I've been lugging around this week:



That's a cool set-up. I was just looking at those bezels and thinking about getting one to use on one of my C2's but I hesitated because I'm concerned about it not working with the pocket clip. I hadn't thought about a Z2 but I like the look and I wouldn't have that problem. Thanks for sharing it.

Here's some more pics of the C2+SW01+KL3. I hope they are what you wanted.


----------



## beach honda

Rugged! Thanks for sharing! Put a handle on it and that thing is a Buck Rodgers disintegrating pistol!

Take some pictures if you end up grabbing the Cryos bezel, they are sweeeeet!


----------



## tobrien

880arm said:


> That's a cool set-up. I was just looking at those bezels and thinking about getting one to use on one of my C2's but I hesitated because I'm concerned about it not working with the pocket clip. I hadn't thought about a Z2 but I like the look and I wouldn't have that problem. Thanks for sharing it.
> 
> Here's some more pics of the C2+SW01+KL3. I hope they are what you wanted.
> 
> http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff388/880arm/Flashlights/C2_KL3_SW01_a.jpg[/IM]
> 
> [IMG]http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff388/880arm/Flashlights/C2_KL3_SW01_b.jpg[/IG]
> 
> [IMG]http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff388/880arm/Flashlights/C2_KL3_SW01_c.jpg[/MG]
> 
> [IMG]http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff388/880arm/Flashlights/C2_KL3_SW01_d.jpg[IMG]
> 
> [IMG]http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff388/880arm/Flashlights/C2_KL3_SW01_e.jpg/IMG][/QUOTE]
> 
> amazing!


----------



## RI Chevy

Looks a little heavy. But nice.


----------



## 880arm

beach honda said:


> Rugged! Thanks for sharing! Put a handle on it and that thing is a Buck Rodgers disintegrating pistol!
> 
> Take some pictures if you end up grabbing the Cryos bezel, they are sweeeeet!



I've got to be honest, I didn't know what the Buck Rogers Atomic Disintegrator looked like so I had to Google it. Now that I've seen it, I believe you're right!


----------



## RI Chevy

LOL. Nice


----------



## eg1977

C2 body, KT1 turbo head, Z48 tailcap, MN16 lamp, 2 AW 16340 IMRs


----------



## jamesmtl514

Very nice! 
That's one of my favorite Legos


----------



## erehwyrevekool

880arm said:


> I've got to be honest, I didn't know what the Buck Rogers Atomic Disintegrator looked like so I had to Google it. Now that I've seen it, I believe you're right!


:laughing: so beautiful!


----------



## kelmo

I just put together a few Frankenlights. EB1 head/E1e tube/Z68 and a KX1A head/EB1 tube and clicky!


----------



## Tana




----------



## jamesmtl514

Nice lights Tana!


----------



## DAN92

......


----------



## Tana

jamesmtl514 said:


> Nice lights Tana!



Thanks James...
Except for cerakoted 6P's on top, all of them are users with different emitter/driver/modes combos... and not a scratch on a single one...
Who says users have too look worn out ???


----------



## RI Chevy

Tana said:


>



The head on the black C2/M2 (bottom row 2nd light) looks a lot like the Solarforce A001, or vise versa.  Nice collection.


----------



## jamesmtl514

theres a _little _lego action going on here....


----------



## Tana

RI Chevy said:


> The head on the black C2/M2 (bottom row 2nd light) looks a lot like the Solarforce A001, or vise versa.  Nice collection.



Hehehe... thanks... that C2/M2 is actually AZ2 body with first gen ano Triad, genuine Surefire E2C adapter (well, part of certain upgrade but still made by Surefire and sold to me by OR) and even if original plan was to use Z41-BK-HA like those other C2's, I figured out that I just love the combo with A001 head, 2012 revision... running Nichia 219 at 1.5A on high, 3 modes, able to run on 2xCR123 or 2xRCR123, able to tailstand, just love this light...


----------



## Tana

jamesmtl514 said:


> theres a _little _lego action going on here....



It's really true... all Surefires are going to Canada and Australia...


----------



## RI Chevy

And Bosnia/Herzegovenia too I guess!


----------



## Tana

I just counted 33 Surefires in collection... not a SINGLE ONE without some kind of "mod"... at least McClicky and Xeno bezel ring... But I'm going to put some of them together to close to original form and try to sell them somehow to try to cover some of the expenses I'm going to invest in small lathe... pics to follow, I'm looking for camera...


----------



## Tana




----------



## Silgt

jamesmtl514 said:


> theres a _little _lego action going on here....



James, that one right at the bottom with LU10...what battery configuration could you run it with?


----------



## Tana

So last pic has my hottest candidates that will turn into TripleXPE2 or TripleXPG2 (or Triple219) and will try to compensate for my new lathe's partial expenses... there will be more candidates but I consider them "boring" compared to soon-to-be-triples...


----------



## jamesmtl514

Shyan, the tail cap is press fitted. It doesn't actually stay on. It was for illustration purposes only 






I'LL TAKE IT!!!

very nice collection. Some fine e1 lights among other SF greatness.


----------



## pyro1son

Just wondering if any body has a photo of a 6P with a Z49 tailcap and a Z32 (M2) bezel?


----------



## ElectronGuru

Havn't tried it on a P, but here are C and Z:


----------



## BIGLOU

Here is a photo of a 6P with a Z49 tailcap and a Z32 (M2) bezel and custom SS bezel.

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc167/lorozco91803/6pz32z49_zps652b9823.jpg



Your image is too large and has been replaced with a link. Please resize and repost.
See Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. - Thanks Norm


----------



## pyro1son

ElectronGuru said:


> Havn't tried it on a P, but here are C and Z:




 Oh my god! They're beautiful! I need that set up, my wallet is already feeling the pain! They're on top of my to-buy list! Thank you gentlemen for the photos!


----------



## Silgt

jamesmtl514 said:


> Shyan, the tail cap is press fitted. It doesn't actually stay on. It was for illustration purposes only



Haha you are not the only one...I recently bought one with a longer screw thread that will screw on a SF tailcap, but are still trying to figure out the ideal lego & battery config for it. Anyone with some ideas?


----------



## think2x

While not as "mini" as yours LJ, the feel of this 1xRCR U2 Ultra is quite nice. I may keep it like this if I can find a good way to carry it.


----------



## tobrien

I hope this is the correct place to ask, but what are my options for tail cap shrouds?

I want to gift two Surefires to my parents and another to my godmother and plan on installing McClickys (hardpress boots) but McClickys are pretty sensitive so I wanna find some delrin or something shrouds, where do I get them?

For what it's worth, one is gonna be a Nitrolon tailcap and the other a Z41 tailcap. does anyone still make the shrouds I've seen at times here?


----------



## think2x

tobrien said:


> I hope this is the correct place to ask, but what are my options for tail cap shrouds?
> 
> I want to gift two Surefires to my parents and another to my godmother and plan on installing McClickys (hardpress boots) but McClickys are pretty sensitive so I wanna find some delrin or something shrouds, where do I get them?
> 
> For what it's worth, one is gonna be a Nitrolon tailcap and the other a Z41 tailcap. does anyone still make the shrouds I've seen at times here?



You have a PM.


----------



## Mikeg23

The Malkoff MD2 switch would work already has a McClicky and shroud


----------



## Eric242

I put this one together a few days ago. I never liked Surefire´s Nitrolon lights, but when I saw the G3D-FYL body I thought it might work on a M3. Has a Cree XP-G dropin and a AW softstart switch in a Z58 shell.


----------



## tobrien

think2x said:


> You have a PM.


thanks 


Mikeg23 said:


> The Malkoff MD2 switch would work already has a McClicky and shroud


oh good idea!


Eric242 said:


> I put this one together a few days ago. I never liked Surefire´s Nitrolon lights, but when I saw the G3D-FYL body I thought it might work on a M3. Has a Cree XP-G dropin and a AW softstart switch in a Z58 shell.



that looks spectacular, good work!


----------



## jamesmtl514

That's a really cool G3!


----------



## Monocrom

Eric242 said:


> I put this one together a few days ago. I never liked Surefire´s Nitrolon lights, but when I saw the G3D-FYL body I thought it might work on a M3. Has a Cree XP-G dropin and a AW softstart switch in a Z58 shell.



NICE!

Which adapter did you use to conect the M3 head to the body?


----------



## Eric242

A surefire adapter, salvaged from a KL3.

Eric


----------



## Monocrom

It looks seamless.


----------



## think2x

I thought the thread could use a fully functional 1xRCR Kroma Mini.


----------



## Eric242

Monocrom said:


> It looks seamless.


Yes, the adapter looks like it was made for the Z46 and the colour matches perfectly.



think2x said:


> I thought the thread could use a fully functional 1xRCR Kroma Mini.


What did you use for the body? Looks pretty cool.

Eric


----------



## tobrien

think2x said:


> I thought the thread could use a fully functional 1xRCR Kroma Mini.



I've got a Kroma on the way, how does one replicate this (other than an RCR of course haha)?


----------



## think2x

@ Eric and Tucker,

It's a Surefire A21 Classic weapons light extension (between the body and tail in pic below). I recently picked up an L60/Z32, A21 classic tape switch and rail mount from Ebay. I'm now trying to find another A21 so I can have one on my Kroma and another on my U2.

FYI: Basically the L60,Z32,A21 plus C series tail of choice makes a smoothy 6P.






Jamie


----------



## jamesmtl514

That's a very nice light! 

Here are 2 i recently threw together.


----------



## tobrien

think2x said:


> @ Eric and Tucker,
> 
> It's a Surefire A21 Classic weapons light extension (between the body and tail in pic below). I recently picked up an L60/Z32, A21 classic tape switch and rail mount from Ebay. I'm now trying to find another A21 so I can have one on my Kroma and another on my U2.
> 
> FYI: Basically the L60,Z32,A21 plus C series tail of choice makes a smoothy 6P.
> 
> [IG]http://imageshack.us/a/img819/9060/dsc04036p.jpg[/IMG]
> 
> 
> Jamie



gotcha, thanks for the explanation. 

I may have to try that sometime lol


----------



## LightJunk

Here's mine.


----------



## jamesmtl514

Very nice threesome! 
That SW02 looks great


----------



## Silgt

Sweet vintage C2 & M3 bodies LJ :thumbsup:


----------



## bb863828

new logo looked better.


----------



## el_Pablo

Surefire Z2, bored for 18650, Mclicky hardpress, C to M from LF, M3 bezel with D36 drop-in from NB with XPE2 @ 1.7a (nice thrower)


----------



## think2x

Here's one I've been wanting to do for a while. L1 with E1E head and KUKU XP-G tower . I had to shorted the driver cavity and create a positive post so it would fit and make contact with the stock driver. In the pic it is running from a 2.35V cell, nice vampire IMO.


----------



## PCC

think2x said:


> Here's one I've been wanting to do for a while. L1 with E1E head and KUKU XP-G tower .


Doh! I was going to do almost the same exact thing with my L1! Nice and short like they should have done it to begin with (in my humble opinion).


----------



## think2x

PCC said:


> Doh! I was going to do almost the same exact thing with my L1! Nice and short like they should have done it to begin with (in my humble opinion).



I like it alot, runs on a super dead primary or pulls 1.1A from an RCR with a more usable light than the TIR IMO.


----------



## el_Pablo

Surefire M2.5 with RPM Ti bezel ring!


----------



## jamesmtl514




----------



## cland72

jamesmtl514 said:


> http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/10/bama9eru.jpg



Now what in the heck is that?


----------



## jamesmtl514

it's a bead blasted Titanium Mcgizmo body with the head from a titanium prototype Surefire. :devil:


----------



## cland72

jamesmtl514 said:


> it's a bead blasted Titanium Mcgizmo body with the head from a titanium prototype Surefire. :devil:



Holy crap, I bet that is worth a nice chunk of change


----------



## UVvis

Some oddities.

M1 with an XM tailcap
Scoutlight with a tls head
Mellinium weaponlight with a malkoff/vme head
660 classic weaponlight with a clicky, adapter an kx2c
Z2 with the shrouded clicky and a M2 bezel
A21 Z59 with a vme/malkoff M31
Messed up M3... Z46, LU10, A21, A19, regular twist...


----------



## T45

UVvis said:


> Some oddities.
> 
> M1 with an XM tailcap
> Scoutlight with a tls head
> Mellinium weaponlight with a malkoff/vme head
> 660 classic weaponlight with a clicky, adapter an kx2c
> Z2 with the shrouded clicky and a M2 bezel
> A21 Z59 with a vme/malkoff M31
> Messed up M3... Z46, LU10, A21, A19, regular twist...



The XM tailcap is interchangeable with a Z41 tailcap? I did not know that. Hunh.


----------



## Espionage Studio

jamesmtl514 said:


>



That is the hottest thing I have seen all day


----------



## jamie.91

Love this thread! Can't wait till I can contribute 

Edit : just ordered an L60  a few bits to go before its worthy of this thread though😝


----------



## jamesmtl514

I threw this guy together, looks really cool, feels great in hand.
VME head, E1 body and scout tail.
Mule and E1E for scale.


----------



## jamie.91

el_Pablo said:


> Surefire M2.5 with RPM Ti bezel ring!



Is that a blue o ring before the tail cap?

I need blue o rings 😜😝😃😊


----------



## archimedes

jamesmtl514 said:


> ....VME head, E1 body and scout tail....



One of my favorite setups, especially with an M30W and an McE2S


----------



## HydroDynamic

The light Surefire should make. 
900 single mode clicky dual 17670 or primaries.


----------



## tobrien

HydroDynamic said:


> The light Surefire should make.
> 900 single mode clicky dual 17670 or primaries.



is this a modded light?


----------



## think2x

tobrien said:


> is this a modded light?



M6LT head on an M4 body I think.


----------



## tobrien

think2x said:


> M6LT head on an M4 body I think.



i think you're right. good eye


----------



## kongfuchicken

How did you get your head to come off the body?
Even with a heat gun, I think I pulled a muscle trying to get mine off...


----------



## HydroDynamic

Hold head neck flats toward lens side in vise with wood jaw protectors. Insert pipe or solid into battery compartment so the body does not crush then wrap body in leather then use a large pliers or pipe wrench to turn.


----------



## tobrien

HydroDynamic said:


> Hold head neck flats toward lens side in vise with wood jaw protectors. Insert pipe or solid into battery compartment so the body does not crush then wrap body in leather then use a large pliers or pipe wrench to turn.



dang, it sounds like you put tooth and nail effort into that!


----------



## Rat

HydroDynamic said:


> The light Surefire should make.
> 900 single mode clicky dual 17670 or primaries.



Nice lego looks great. Like how you used the latest M4 body with the currant logo matching the modern head. Sounds like a hard job to get the head off M6LT. You have some balls as it could of went south very easily.

Thanks for sharing :thumbsup:


:wave:


----------



## jamie.91

New aquasitions 

L60 and SW02 

The L60 still needs to be bored out to finish my shortie


----------



## jamie.91

I have a question!! 

Has anyone got a good way to remove the anodising from the threads inside a 6p tailcap?

Because ye threads on the l60 are short the cap doesn't bottom out do electrical conductivity needs to be through the threads!

I'm currently using a solarforce tailcap but it's so ugly compared to the surefire 

Thanks
Jamie


----------



## Meganoggin

Some of the aggressive oven cleaners will remove ano', but be careful, it's nasty stuff.


----------



## yoyoman

Sodium hydroxide (lye) also removes anodizing. There is a thread on this, but they removed the anodizing from the whole head and body. I guess you could carefully hang tailcap so only the threads are impacted. Also nasty stuff - use gloves.

Here's the thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...p-Sodium-Hydroxide&highlight=sodium+hydroxide


----------



## jamie.91

Thanks for that, I've searched but there's no definitive answers


----------



## jamesmtl514

Found o-rings for my proto E1 bodies, made this cutie with spare parts.


----------



## T45

jamie.91 said:


> New aquasitions
> 
> L60 and SW02
> 
> The L60 still needs to be bored out to finish my shortie



Just curious, but does that Oveready tail cap make the tail cap a twisty only? no momentary or click?


----------



## jamie.91

T45 said:


> Just curious, but does that Oveready tail cap make the tail cap a twisty only? no momentary or click?



Yes, twisty only.

It's a solid brass part that screws into your surefire tailcap.

Mines not set up properly yet though and I can't find any info from other people how they have set theirs up 

When switched off/ untwisted the battery rattles because there is a gap. My only idea was a fibre washer or a plastic spring but I'm not sure weather it would work and I can't find the parts I need to try it


----------



## Mikeg23

Maybe wrap the batteries with a piece of paper or tape them together... I would think that any kind of a plastic washer would keep it from making contact when tightened, but I have never used one.

One thing to keep in mind that we learned back when the first z57 tailcaps were not working to well. There is a plastic washer under the wrapper on the negative side of your cr123 batteries.


----------



## jamie.91

Mikeg23 said:


> Maybe wrap the batteries with a piece of paper or tape them together... I would think that any kind of a plastic washer would keep it from making contact when tightened, but I have never used one.
> 
> One thing to keep in mind that we learned back when the first z57 tailcaps were not working to well. There is a plastic washer under the wrapper on the negative side of your cr123 batteries.



I'm using a single 17500, it's about 5mm to 10mm to short so a cr123 is way too short,I've not got one to try but I think a 17650 would be 5mm to long.

The threads are shorter on the L60 body and the Z57 bottoms out 10mm before making contact with the cell, I did consider putting the Z57 on the lathe and shortening it seen as the first 8mm or so has no threads anyways, hopefully this would solve everything but I'm not sure how it would look and I'd guess you'd see the silver shiny ring where there's no ano which I wouldn't like.

Thanks
Jamie


----------



## yoyoman

jamie.91 said:


> Mines not set up properly yet though and I can't find any info from other people how they have set theirs up
> 
> When switched off/ untwisted the battery rattles because there is a gap. My only idea was a fibre washer or a plastic spring but I'm not sure weather it would work and I can't find the parts I need to try it



The ZRS adds 15 mm. I have an Oveready TL20 body with a 18350. You can do a TL34 with a 18500 or a TL50 with a 18650 (or 2x18350). Oveready puts o-rings at the top to help with rattle. A lot depends on the spring of the dropin. A longer spring will give you more play. You can also use a spacer (TL50, ZRS, spacer and either a 16340, 18350).


----------



## jamie.91

yoyoman said:


> The ZRS adds 15 mm. I have an Oveready TL20 body with a 18350. You can do a TL34 with a 18500 or a TL50 with a 18650 (or 2x18350). Oveready puts o-rings at the top to help with rattle. A lot depends on the spring of the dropin. A longer spring will give you more play. You can also use a spacer (TL50, ZRS, spacer and either a 16340, 18350).



Length isn't te real problem, I can alter that to fit, it's the rattle that bothers me, when the light is off there needs to be a gap between the battery and brass and that's my gripe. I was thinking a fibre washer would hold in place but compress enough under pressure to allow contact.

I don't feel like I can "trust" this light like I do with others.


----------



## yoyoman

Is the rattle from diameter or length? To stop rattle from diameter, you can wrap the cell in light cardboard. To stop rattle from lenght, you can use an o-ring or lengthen the spring from the dropin. I don't have these issues with my set ups that use the ZRS and I find them very robust and reliable. Another random thought - are you unscrewing the tail too much? Also, see the Oveready site (>Upgrades, >Body Upgrades) for the Battery Bumpers.


----------



## jamie.91

yoyoman said:


> Is the rattle from diameter or length? To stop rattle from diameter, you can wrap the cell in light cardboard. To stop rattle from lenght, you can use an o-ring or lengthen the spring from the dropin. I don't have these issues with my set ups that use the ZRS and I find them very robust and reliable. Another random thought - are you unscrewing the tail too much? Also, see the Oveready site (>Upgrades, >Body Upgrades) for the Battery Bumpers.



It's length. When untwisted to turn the light off there needs to be a break in the circuit, done by separating the cell from the zero Rez, this gap then produces rattle.

To prevent a million turns between on and off the spring needs to be stiffer too.

If I didn't want to run a 17500 so bad I'd go to a clicky


----------



## ElectronGuru

The ZRS is expecting 1) a spring at the top to push against, 2) an insulated tailcap to confine connection to just the brass and 3) separation from the body to break contact from the bottom of the body shortly after unscrewing. With all of the above, you should not need to unscrew so far that the battery is loose.

How far past the bottom of the body does the battery stick out, with the cap off and no pressure on the cell?


----------



## jamie.91

The threads on the L60 body are shorter than usual, so body to brass contact is not an option, electrical path must go through the threads I'm afraid

I might have fixed it with the use of an O ring and a magnet or two, if it works ill let you know


----------



## Donkeykong

Hi all, Does anyone know what other striking bezel ring fits the L6 Porcupine from surefire ? i'm looking for a smaller one or one with holes in it's side.


----------



## jamie.91

Hey Cpf!

Finally Finished Phase one of my first Surefire Lego 

I decided i wanted a shortie/3P type light so i set about finding parts, i didnt want to go the oveready/fivemega route as thats what most do, i wanted something as close to 100% genuine surefire as possible.

I first sourced a surefire L60. For anyone who doesnt know, a p60 type drop in wont fit an L60 without machining





Heres a pic to show how close it is to fitting.





as this is "phase one" i wanted to use as many stock parts as possible, so although it could be machined i wanted to avoid surgery for now, it may come later though  

so keeping within the stock parts parameters and as usual on a budget i found a Kx4 on the MP for the right money, the reason for this is it's a straight fit because of the spring/reflector arangement.





Im making another lego aswell at the moment which isnt finished yet but the standard tailcap on th 6P is being replaced so seen as i had a Z41 spare i decided to use it. Now seen as all my other surefires have mcclickys i decided i was going to use a ZeroRez for a change, that and it looks nice lol





By this point i had a light that i was happy with looks wise





















I also tried it with a clicky out of curiosity, now im tort between the two :duh:

Now i had to get light from the handsome fella

I ran a 17500 at first with some magnets for spacers as it was slightly too short but the 4'ish volts wasnt quite enough to get full power (120 Lumens)





As you can see here two Cr123a's are way too long





Then i had an idea, why not run 2 Cr2's? that would give 6 volts and fit :YAY:





I should mention at this point that when trying new ideas you NEED a parts box to play with, heres mine 





After fiddling with the spring on the KX4 and spacers another amazing idea came from nowhere, instead of cutting the spring to get the desired length, because remember we want to keep it stock for now, i decided that the light would be easier to operate if the head was the tiwisty rather than the tail seen as the anti roll bezel lands perfectly in your hand just between your thumb and finger! this would also make life easier in setting the battery length and stop rattle.

i added an o ring at the front as a damper.





as you can see its blue so ten times more amazing

as i tried it i realised the spring is a little long but in keeping with the stock parts thing for now i decided not to cut it down and save that for "phase two" if i decide to do so, but for now i added an o ring to fill the gap and keep the crud out.
This is the size of the gap





And with O ring





This is the end of "phase one" as it stands.













Concluding the first stage of the light my thoughts are mixed so i've decided to leave it as it is for a while and try it, if i think it could be better i will move onto phase two that will involve machining the body. i wanted to do it this way first to show its possible without machining as some people dont have access to lathes and such.

Over all i'm happy with the outcome, even though the gap between the body and the head is a little big its silky smooth and EASILY operable with one hand, this makes it easier to hold the light in and EDC way rather than a tactical grip. This was an unexpected game changer but i love it, i never planned it initially but i'm so glad that it turned out this way.

My ideas for the second stage i'm not sure on yet, and id love to hear your feedback and suggestions!

My first thought was to machine the body to use a p60 but im in love with the KX4 beam pattern :LOVE: its such a shame it has a nasty tint and ever so slightly under powered for me, id imagine 200 to 300 neutral lumens would be perfect for me.
I also considered machining the bottom of the tailcap ( the part before the threads ), the threads on the L60 are shorter than usual so i would benefit from more thread contact and a shorter overall length, even though i could shorten the spacer i'm not sure how it would look as there would be a silver band visible between the tailcap and body.

sorry for the long post and i hope its of interest to someone

Thanks 
Jamie


----------



## kelmo

My latest creation is a KX9-A + M3 tube+ SW02. It's long but it has the beam to back it up. It looks like a light saber handle. One of these days I'll sign up for a picture hosting site so I can post pictures...


----------



## jamie.91

Ive never seen a KX9-A, I'd love to see a pic 

I also acquired an SW02 recently, it's going to be paired with an M2 bezel and either a 6 or 9P body 

Depending on the body is the drop in,an EDC+ tripple for the 6P bored to use a 18650 or a malkoff M61 HCRI in the 9P.


----------



## kelmo

Hello my friend from across the pond. PM me an email address and I'll send you a picture of the setup to post!


----------



## T45

Photo courtesy of KELMO







KX9-A on a Surefire M3. The styling is a bit odd. My personal preference would have been an Upgraded LED in a KL6 Head.

Recently on Ebay there was a nice Surefire Lego for sale with a KL6 Head, a M4 body and a SW02 tail cap. If the funds had been available, I would have bought it. That setup was SEXY!


----------



## kelmo

T45 said:


> Photo courtesy of KELMO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> KX9-A on a Surefire M3. The styling is a bit odd. My personal preference would have been an Upgraded LED in a KL6 Head.
> 
> Recently on Ebay there was a nice Surefire Lego for sale with a KL6 Head, a M4 body and a SW02 tail cap. If the funds had been available, I would have bought it. That setup was SEXY!



Thanks TK45!

Next to the M3 (Mega3) is a E2O +Malkoff E2 bezel, E1B bezel + Malkoff body/switch, EB1 bezel + E1e tube + Z68 ("Abbie Normal"), and E1B bezel + E1B body w/shrouded clickie ("The Eel").

The lanyards are made with glow in the dark/reflective PMI chord. 

The KX9-A is big, take the last M3 bezel variant and add an inch!

kelmo


----------



## jamesmtl514

Really nice setup kelmo! 
Here's a little Lego,


----------



## jamie.91

My M2 head finally arrived it looks waay better on the L60 but I don't want to sacrifice my 3P rep so it's on a 6P body for now


----------



## T45

jamesmtl514 said:


> Really nice setup kelmo!
> Here's a little Lego,






Thats IT! the ULTIMATE Surefire Lego!...for me anyway. Love that SW02 Tail Cap/M4 Body/KL6 Head


----------



## T45

I have to ask. The Zero Rez Shorty...that turns your flashlight into a twist only to turn on?


----------



## 880arm

T45 said:


> I have to ask. The Zero Rez Shorty...that turns your flashlight into a twist only to turn on?



That is correct


----------



## jamesmtl514

I find it feels too long. Something about it doesn't feel right,i like the L6 with the SW02.


----------



## jamie.91

T45 said:


> I have to ask. The Zero Rez Shorty...that turns your flashlight into a twist only to turn on?



Mine is a twisty at the head, not the tail


----------



## yoyoman

At least one piece on each light is Surefire.


----------



## AndyF

I like the one on the left, can you describe it?. Thank you.


----------



## yoyoman

Ronac's Smoothie Bezel with Brass ring, Moddoolar C Series Interface, TL20 shorty body, SureFire Z41 tailcap with ZRS and MD61N L dropin. Very Small. The usual set up is with the A19 extender and a 18650 for very long runtimes.


----------



## jamie.91

Just finished my new EDC


----------



## Meganoggin

That's a cool looking little light Jamie.91. Nice.


----------



## jamie.91

Meganoggin said:


> That's a cool looking little light Jamie.91. Nice.



Thanks!

It's a "rig up" of parts I had spare! It's not the best condition but its an EDC so it's only going to get worse haha


----------



## Eric242

I recently finished these two:







A C2 Mutant with a bored and ceracoated body, McClicky upgrade, Cryos cooling bezel, Tailcap Shroud with SS-Clip and EDC+ X60-L3
















A LU10 Mutant with Z48, RPM Ti Bezel and a D36 reflector with XP-G pill (soon to be replaced with e Cree MC-E RGB pill). Could only be completed and perfected with a SW02 or SW01 fatty. Even the LU10 bodies that have enough threads to actually accept a switch will only work with a spacer ring to make contact between body and switch!


----------



## Mr.Freeze

WoW! Eric, this is a really cool setup. Thanks for share!


----------



## jamie.91

Very nice indeed! I've been wanting a lathe for a while now for projects just like this, spacers and such.

I've been using p60 springs between the body and tailcap on my L60 Legos


----------



## Tana

New addition to my evergrowing line of EDC's being used all the time... "E1B Backup"... XPG2, Neutral White, Reflector, 2-Mode (High/Low, 360 lumens / 10 lumens), No Memory... tactile switch (McClicky), soft boot, tiny shroud to allow for boot protection and tailstand... LX2 head instead of KX1B for sharper look... The only thing - wish it was BLACK...


----------



## jamie.91

That's pretty cool!


----------



## Chodes

Good tailstander


----------



## flash_bang

Chodes said:


> Good tailstander



Looks pretty slick! What's the tailcap you have on that one? Also did you refinish it with a glossy topcoat or something? Cool look, even if it turns out to be stock HA on there.


----------



## Chodes

flash_bang said:


> Looks pretty slick! What's the tailcap you have on that one? Also did you refinish it with a glossy topcoat or something? Cool look, even if it turns out to be stock HA on there.



That is an FM Octa tail. (new product couple of weeks ago) FM says "mill spec hard anodized"
It (and the KL3 head) look glossy due to the Z2 host which is an oveready re anodized host is is very matte.


----------



## UVvis

All surefire and malkoff parts.


----------



## 880arm

Nice job. I had been eyeballing those Malkoff forend kits due to their LEGO potential. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## tobrien

can you lego guys tell me what one might need to make an M952V into a regular light?

I've been seeing the tan M952V weaponlights at CPFMP and it's been real tempting, but I don't know what part(s) I would need to put the infrared/white head on a usable carry light

would I need a specific neck or adapter?

any particular body?


----------



## UVvis

Tobrien,

The KM3 head will fit in an A21 weaponlight adapter, I'm bit sure what the voltage requirements are, but an A19 one cell extender and a standard tailcap plus 2x123a cells would work just fine. It should also fit the U2 body and would be a vampire light.


----------



## tobrien

UVvis said:


> Tobrien,
> 
> The KM3 head will fit in an A21 weaponlight adapter, I'm bit sure what the voltage requirements are, but an A19 one cell extender and a standard tailcap plus 2x123a cells would work just fine. It should also fit the U2 body and would be a vampire light.



gotcha, thank you! so the A19 looks like it's much more readily available (Oveready has 'em for example). by itself is the A19 a single cell length? based on the photo at Oveready (purely eyeballing it), the A19 really does look too short to make a 2x CR123 setup. I'm assuming the head and tailcap add the necessary length? 

I apologize I'm probably making this more complicated than it needs to be lol.


----------



## UVvis

The A21 is the adapter for the head. The A19 adds one cell of length (make a 6P a 9P more or less).

The A21 would be needed to attach to the KM3 but you'd have one CR123a of length. An A19 would make it 2X123a as it was designed to run.

So you'd have; KM3, A21, A19, choice of tailcap for a two cell set up.


----------



## tobrien

UVvis said:


> The A21 is the adapter for the head. The A19 adds one cell of length (make a 6P a 9P more or less).
> 
> The A21 would be needed to attach to the KM3 but you'd have one CR123a of length. An A19 would make it 2X123a as it was designed to run.
> 
> So you'd have; KM3, A21, A19, choice of tailcap for a two cell set up.



ohhh okay, I see. I was misinterpreting that as either/or an A21 or A19. gotcha, thanks!


----------



## Helmut.G

9Z + A20 running 17670s.
I think this one is gonna be a user :thumbsup:


----------



## Dingle1911

Helmut.G said:


> 9Z + A20 running 17670s.
> I think this one is gonna be a user :thumbsup:



Nice, so it is now like an M3?


----------



## Helmut.G

Dingle1911 said:


> Nice, so it is now like an M3?


It's not really meant to be like any other light. I set it up the way I felt I could like.

I just love the feel of the round-bodied combatlights. You can see my G2Z in the picture, I set it up with the masterpiece head a long time ago and never changed it back.
I play around with it a lot, even though to this day I have never really needed the throw it gives. It is not practical as a primary light, but I have lots of others for that. I use it around the house, bouncing the beam off the ceiling and I bring it when I go to a dark place.

So, some weeks ago I got that 9Z for a low price. It came with a new-style surefire turbohead, no original bezel. I don't have a LA to go with that head, and sure as hell am not going to buy one at a ridiculously high pricetag. I could never enjoy it without being afraid of instaflash. I only became an active flashaholic after LEDs crossed 100lm/W so I never trained myself to burn through expensive bulbs, even though incan beams are so beautiful.
Anyway the 9Z sat around unused for a while, like most of my surefire collection does most of the time. And one fine day I was in Lego mood and it struck me to build an extended runtime copy of the beloved G2ZT. I had the A20 and the masterpiece head sitting around anyway.
I was lucky to find that the masterpiece head leaves enough space for 2x17670 with an original surefire twisty tailcap, many drop-ins don't. I now have a very old tailcap on it from before surefire started to put model numbers on them. The one that reads 9Z is in good collectible condition and I want it to stay that way.


----------



## el_Pablo

Surefire/OR 

RGBW with TIR optic (rebels LED)

700ma/color 7 modes


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

jamie.91 said:


> Thanks
> Jamie



Hi Jamie,

This is my first time viewing this thread* I couldn't move-on without telling you how enamored I am with your Light. Thanks for the pictures, and sharing the decisions you made creating it.

*A big thumbs-up to flash bang for this great thread. :thumbsup:

~ Chance


----------



## jamie.91

Chauncey Gardiner said:


> Hi Jamie,
> 
> This is my first time viewing this thread* I couldn't move-on without telling you how enamored I am with your Light. Thanks for the pictures, and sharing the decisions you made creating it.
> 
> *A big thumbs-up to flash bang for this great thread. :thumbsup:
> 
> ~ Chance



Why thank you kind sir, not much interest In it otherwise but I'm super glad you like it 

Thanks
Jamie 

BTW I was so happy with the how it turned out I've not changed it since, instead I got another l60 or two haha


----------



## 880arm

Something a little different. A SureFire U2 runnning a Mac's Customs Triple XP-G Neutral drop-in with a Cryos M2 Cooling Bezel






All made possible by OVEREADY's new LU60 adapter designed for the 951/961 weapon lights but it works just as well with the K2, U2, and V2 bodies.


----------



## Kestrel

880arm said:


> Something a little different. A SureFire U2 runnning a Mac's Customs Triple XP-G Neutral drop-in with a Cryos M2 Cooling Bezel
> [...]
> All made possible by OVEREADY's new LU60 adapter designed for the 951/961 weapon lights but it works just as well with the K2, U2, and V2 bodies.


Pretty cool, not many folks LEGO the U2 bodies. :thumbsup:


----------



## jamie.91

Where did you get the red o rings buddy? I've searched to the ends of the earth for red o rings and a red switch boot!

Jamie


----------



## 880arm

Kestrel said:


> Pretty cool, not many folks LEGO the U2 bodies. :thumbsup:



That's one of the reasons I wanted to do it in the first place. You don't see it too often.

The U2 isn't the best LEGO candidate out there but it was one of my first SureFire's so I like having some options to expand its usefulness.



jamie.91 said:


> Where did you get the red o rings buddy? I've searched to the ends of the earth for red o rings and a red switch boot!
> 
> Jamie



They are expensive at $38 per pair but they do come with a nice LU60 adapter 

They came with the adapter when I ordered it from OVEREADY. I just checked the site and didn't see the o-rings available separately but you might send them an e-mail and see if they can help you out.


----------



## cland72

880arm said:


> Something a little different. A SureFire U2 runnning a Mac's Customs Triple XP-G Neutral drop-in with a Cryos M2 Cooling Bezel
> All made possible by OVEREADY's new LU60 adapter designed for the 951/961 weapon lights but it works just as well with the K2, U2, and V2 bodies.



What's your impression of the LU60 adapter? Worth the money? How is the quality compared to factory Surefire products?


----------



## jamie.91

880arm said:


> That's one of the reasons I wanted to do it in the first place. You don't see it too often.
> 
> The U2 isn't the best LEGO candidate out there but it was one of my first SureFire's so I like having some options to expand its usefulness.
> 
> 
> 
> They are expensive at $38 per pair but they do come with a nice LU60 adapter
> 
> They came with the adapter when I ordered it from OVEREADY. I just checked the site and didn't see the o-rings available separately but you might send them an e-mail and see if they can help you out.



lol thanks buddy!


----------



## 880arm

cland72 said:


> What's your impression of the LU60 adapter? Worth the money? How is the quality compared to factory Surefire products?



I like it and it was worth it to me so I had a better LEGO option than the SureFire version. The machining and finish look great and and it is more compatible with LED drop-ins. I don't know what alloy it is machined from but it seems to be durably made.

The only downside, if you want to call it that, is that it could be hard to remove if it were *really *tightened into the bezel. You definitely will want to make sure it's lubricated before assembly. On the other hand, the SureFire version has the hex collar and the later ones had the slots cut into each end to help with removal.


----------



## cland72

Thanks for the info. Is this more suited for the Nailbender/VN P60 drop ins, or the Malkoff/EDC/Overready P60 size?


----------



## tobrien

what advantages do we have with using U2/Kroma bodies for LEGO stuff as opposed to a 6P body?


----------



## Redhat703

tobrien said:


> what advantages do we have with using U2/Kroma bodies for LEGO stuff as opposed to a 6P body?


I can only think of two things: 18650 ready and clicky tail cap.


----------



## Grizzman

My LU60 adapter arrived a couple days ago. I initially tested it with a Malkoff M61, but got sporadic contact until I wrapped the M61 with some soda can material. That solved the issue completely.

I then put in a Nailbender module, with extra spring, and didn't experience any contact issues. 

The natural anodizing color is an exact match to that of my M951 head. The comment about it being potentially hard to remove is definitely true. I ended up needing to use a leather glove to get enough friction to remove it from the head one time.

I'm very happy with it so far, and it's put my M951 back into a fully serviceable condition. All I need is a rifle onto which to mount it.


----------



## 880arm

cland72 said:


> Thanks for the info. Is this more suited for the Nailbender/VN P60 drop ins, or the Malkoff/EDC/Overready P60 size?



It should work fine with any of them. Just like Grizzman, I had intermittent contact with a Malkoff drop-in but I just added a small piece of outer spring from my spare parts bin. Worked fine after that. The Mac's triple fits like a glove without the use of a spring.

I haven't measured it but I suppose the pocket may be just a little bit deeper than a 6P/C2/Z2.



Redhat703 said:


> I can only think of two things: 18650 ready and clicky tail cap.



And a pocket clip if you're into that kind of thing.


----------



## UVvis

880arm,

I hate you in a kind loving sort of way.

I'll have to order one of the LU60 type adapters now. Maybe we should ask if they will plan to put the remove slots similar to the surefire ones on their for removal.


----------



## KeyGrip

880arm said:


> And a pocket clip if you're into that kind of thing.



I was thinking that as well. The U2 clip is one of my all time favorites.


----------



## tobrien

so is the LU10 what I need to run, say, an M3 head on a Z3?


----------



## 880arm

tobrien said:


> so is the LU10 what I need to run, say, an M3 head on a Z3?



For that you just need a C to M adapter. The LU10 is a 1 cell extender that is meant to be used with SureFire weapon light housings. 

It has C "tailcap" threads (sort of) at one end and M bezel threads at the other. You can see a fine example of this in Eric's post from a few months ago. However, the fitment of C style tailcaps is not a sure thing as the threaded tail of the LU10 is not as long as the C2/6P/Z2 etc.


----------



## tobrien

880arm said:


> For that you just need a C to M adapter. The LU10 is a 1 cell extender that is meant to be used with SureFire weapon light housings.
> 
> It has C "tailcap" threads (sort of) at one end and M bezel threads at the other. You can see a fine example of this in Eric's post from a few months ago. However, the fitment of C style tailcaps is not a sure thing as the threaded tail of the LU10 is not as long as the C2/6P/Z2 etc.



gotcha, thanks for the response and the link! so I guess there's no truly graceful way to do a C body to M bezel?

I ask because I'm looking at buying a Milky modded M3 head in January but I don't have an extra M3 body laying around


----------



## 880arm

I don't think I have one myself but I have seen a lot of LEGO'd lights that have used C to M adapters.

You could try here or take a look at LightHound or OpticsHQ


----------



## cland72

tobrien, check out Lumens Factory. They have a C to M adapter for around $15 and I think it's the cleanest solution you'll find.


----------



## tobrien

880arm said:


> I don't think I have one myself but I have seen a lot of LEGO'd lights that have used C to M adapters.
> 
> You could try here or take a look at LightHound or OpticsHQ





cland72 said:


> tobrien, check out Lumens Factory. They have a C to M adapter for around $15 and I think it's the cleanest solution you'll find.



thanks guys! 

@cland72: do you know if the LF adapters make good contact with the parts it's connecting for conductivity?

@88arm: how about Leef stuff?


----------



## Eric242

Tobrien, Leef has very good locking C/M adapter which is rather expensive nowadays if you can get one at all. Also the anodizing is much better compared to the lumens factory adapter (which certainly is good for it´s price). Surefire has a C/M adapter included in the KL3/KL5 heads (though not the old ribbed KL3!) . The part that screws onto the body is actually a C/M adapter. But they usually used thread look (the unbreakable one) and it is very very hard to seperate the adapter from the head itself. I was lucky with a KL5 that had no threadlock at all but I also tried my luck with a black KL3 and ruined it for good!

Eric


----------



## AndyF

FiveMega has C/M adapters on sale I think.


----------



## cland72

tobrien said:


> thanks guys!
> 
> @cland72: do you know if the LF adapters make good contact with the parts it's connecting for conductivity?



I had one for a while that I used on a 9P body with a M3 non-turbohead, and it worked just fine, no problems whatsoever. I really regret selling the adapter - it really made some good legos possible.


----------



## 880arm

tobrien said:


> @88arm: how about Leef stuff?



Everything I have seen has been real nice. Like Eric said the biggest problem is the lack of availability.


----------



## Mr.Freeze

Not very special but i still love it!

KT1-HA on C2 Body with SW02 Tailcap


----------



## jamesmtl514

Very nice lineup Gunter


----------



## Glock19carrier

Can I put a eb2t head on a eb1t body and get 500lum with less run time? Or is there any way to get the eb2 head to work with a single 16340 or 18350?


----------



## Mr.Freeze

M2 Bezel on 3P Body with Z49 Tailcap - still lovely:


----------



## tobrien

Glock19carrier said:


> Can I put a eb2t head on a eb1t body and get 500lum with less run time? Or is there any way to get the eb2 head to work with a single 16340 or 18350?


i don't have that setup but i'm guessing a 16340 might work 


Mr.Freeze said:


> M2 Bezel on 3P Body with Z49 Tailcap - still lovely:



very nice! classy and tasteful setup there!


----------



## tobrien

so I figure this'll be an OK thread to ask in, but I've admittedly never been clear on this:

what was the purpose of the KT1 turbohead? looking at old product pages, it used the "_SureFire N1 xenon/halogen gas-filled lamp assembly with 65 lumens output for 60 minutes_" but the P60 lamp produced the same output and runtime, so was the P60 lamp not that spec at the time?

Was the KT1 something of a niche product? it looks like you also needed an adapter to use it, no?

and the KT2 was the 3-cell version of the KT1, right?

thanks guys! I guess it's shameful for a CPF member who's a Surefire lover to not know this lol


----------



## RI Chevy

Surefire makes far too many products for someone to know everything about them. I do not know either, and am awaiting the answer.


----------



## archimedes

TurboHead has (much) larger bezel & reflector ... for more throw in the beam 

... and it looks cool


----------



## archimedes

KT1 - for C2 (& similar)
KT2 - for C3 (& similar)
KT3 - for 9AN
KT4 - for M3 (& similar)
KT5 - for 8AX / 8NX

All but the KT4 (EDIT - and KT3) require an "adapter" (collar fitting), which is included in each assembly. The KT4 uses standard M-series threads (as found on the M3 / M6, but _not_ several other "M" models).

Lamps used, of course, will need to appropriately match voltage, current, reflector, & fitment.


----------



## 880arm

archimedes said:


> TurboHead has (much) larger bezel & reflector ... for more throw in the beam
> 
> ... and it looks cool



Exactly. They actually used the same lamp as their non-turbo counterparts which is why the outputs and runtimes were the same. Of course the lamp assemblies were different with the P60, P90, etc. having their own reflectors while the N1, N2, etc. used the reflector in the turbo-head.

The designations KT1, KT2, KT3, KT4 and KT5 all referred to the complete kit consisting of the turbo-head, adapter collar (if needed) and the appropriate lamp assembly. From a LEGO perspective, the kits broke down like this . . .


KT1 and KT2 were identical other than the lamp assembly (N1 for KT1, N2 for KT2)
KT1, KT2 and KT5 all had the same head/reflector. The only differences were the adapter collars and the lamp assemblies.
The KT3 shared no common parts (at least from a LEGO standpoint) with the other kits and did not use an adapter collar.
The KT4 was a completely different animal than the others and, as already mentioned, was for use with the M series lights.

These turbo-heads were preceded by the "T" family of Turbo-heads which generally corresponded to the same models with the exception of the T4. 

T1 - 6P
T2 - 9P
T3 - 9N
T4 - 6R (there was no "M" series when this was introduced)
T5 - 8X


----------



## archimedes

880arm said:


> ....The KT3 shared no common parts (at least from a LEGO standpoint) with the other kits and did not use an adapter collar.....



Thanks for the correction on the KT3 .... The stock advertising photo I saw was erroneous, and I've never seen a KT3 in person. That's the one with the funky N3 "double-lamp"


----------



## jamie.91

Don't think I've added this yet


----------



## jamesmtl514

What 880 said, it throws a very tight beam incredibly well.

One of my favorite setups is KT with MN60 on a C2 with detonator extender and 3x IMR16340


----------



## tobrien

archimedes said:


> KT1 - for C2 (& similar)
> KT2 - for C3 (& similar)
> KT3 - for 9AN
> KT4 - for M3 (& similar)
> KT5 - for 8AX / 8NX
> 
> All but the KT4 (EDIT - and KT3) require an "adapter" (collar fitting), which is included in each assembly. The KT4 uses standard M-series threads (as found on the M3 / M6, but _not_ several other "M" models).
> 
> Lamps used, of course, will need to appropriately match voltage, current, reflector, & fitment.





880arm said:


> Exactly. They actually used the same lamp as their non-turbo counterparts which is why the outputs and runtimes were the same. Of course the lamp assemblies were different with the P60, P90, etc. having their own reflectors while the N1, N2, etc. used the reflector in the turbo-head.
> 
> The designations KT1, KT2, KT3, KT4 and KT5 all referred to the complete kit consisting of the turbo-head, adapter collar (if needed) and the appropriate lamp assembly. From a LEGO perspective, the kits broke down like this . . .
> 
> 
> KT1 and KT2 were identical other than the lamp assembly (N1 for KT1, N2 for KT2)
> KT1, KT2 and KT5 all had the same head/reflector. The only differences were the adapter collars and the lamp assemblies.
> The KT3 shared no common parts (at least from a LEGO standpoint) with the other kits and did not use an adapter collar.
> The KT4 was a completely different animal than the others and, as already mentioned, was for use with the M series lights.
> 
> These turbo-heads were preceded by the "T" family of Turbo-heads which generally corresponded to the same models with the exception of the T4.
> 
> T1 - 6P
> T2 - 9P
> T3 - 9N
> T4 - 6R (there was no "M" series when this was introduced)
> T5 - 8X


thanks you two! I'll write that stuff down for future ref!


jamesmtl514 said:


> What 880 said, it throws a very tight beam incredibly well.
> 
> One of my favorite setups is KT with MN60 on a C2 with detonator extender and 3x IMR16340



that sounds like a nice setup!

*another question for yall*: is the shroud the same on the Z49 and SW02? I did, at one point, have a Z49 but it was pretty hard for me to use in all honesty. the shroud seemed pretty narrow for my fingers and I sold that switch. is the SW02 wider in its opening to the clicky switch boot?


----------



## el_Pablo

Tobrien,

Yes both SW02 et Z48-49 share the same rubber boot, keep in mind that these switches were designed to be used with weapon lights, and get lot of abuse. Most importantly, shouldn't be able turn the light on by mistake, this could compromise your position and your safety.

they weren't designed for the same purpose as a z41 or other clicky.


----------



## tobrien

el_Pablo said:


> Tobrien,
> 
> Yes both SW02 et Z48-49 share the same rubber boot, keep in mind that these switches were designed to be used with weapon lights, and get lot of abuse. Most importantly, shouldn't be able turn the light on by mistake, this could compromise your position and your safety.
> 
> they weren't designed for the same purpose as a z41 or other clicky.


perfect answer, thank you


----------



## Rat

Just got one of Vinh's lasted drop inn's the 3000lm MT-G2 crazy flood. I like it so much I made a new EDC SF lego for it. The MT-G2 has been my favorite LED ever since I got one of Vinh's first Direct Drive MT-G2 drop inn's about 6 months ago. I just wish they would come up with a driver that could run them on 3v.


Tan bored C2, Snub nose M2 cryos bezel, [FONT=&quot]FETtie rear switch[/FONT] and wrapped 3-mode MT-G2 drop inn.







:wave:
**


----------



## jamesmtl514

Very nice! 
Any shots of the business end?


----------



## tobrien

that's sick Rat!


----------



## tobrien

I saw some LU10 parts in the MP and is the LU10 basically a way to make a 3P combatlight of sorts?


----------



## cland72

Not really - the LU10 is made to convert a 6v weaponlight to a 9v weaponlight (using a KT4 or Z46 bezel). It is longer than 1x123. I've seen people successfully use it for custom mods, I suppose with LED drop ins that work in the voltage range they want. I think you might be able to use a 17500, or a RCR123 with some sort of spacer, but I'm sure someone will be long shortly to nail it down.

edit: found what I was looking for: page 29, post 863



Eric242 said:


> I recently finished these two:
> 
> A LU10 Mutant with Z48, RPM Ti Bezel and a D36 reflector with XP-G pill (soon to be replaced with e Cree MC-E RGB pill). Could only be completed and perfected with a SW02 or SW01 fatty. Even the LU10 bodies that have enough threads to actually accept a switch will only work with a spacer ring to make contact between body and switch!
> 
> http://www.ea242.de/pic/lampen/lu10-mutant-1.jpg
> 
> http://www.ea242.de/pic/lampen/lu10-mutant-2.jpg
> 
> http://www.ea242.de/pic/lampen/lu10-mutant-3.jpg
> 
> http://www.ea242.de/pic/lampen/lu10-mutant-4.jpg


----------



## Eric242

And I have to use a battery spacer (~5mm) in addition to the spacer ring (between switch & body) mentioned in the quoted post above. xx500 cells wouldn´t work in mine since they are lightly too long.

Eric


----------



## Mr.Freeze

M2 Bezel on Z2 Body with Z41 - all black - currently my favorite


----------



## Kif

Just put this LEGO recently
I love this set up so much
very handy


----------



## AndrewKelley

Kif said:


> Just put this LEGO recently
> I love this set up so much
> very handy



That is a sweet looking light. Excuse my SureFire ignorance, but which head is that?


----------



## Monocrom

Crenallated turbo head off of an M3T, M4, or M6.


----------



## tobrien

kif that is beautiful!


----------



## RI Chevy

It is a cool light, but it does not look "very handy." It looks like a good specific user, but not very handy due to its size and bezel heavy weight. But I agree it is a cool looking light.


----------



## cland72

RI Chevy said:


> It is a cool light, but it does not look "very handy." It looks like a good specific user, but not very handy due to its size and bezel heavy weight. But I agree it is a cool looking light.



Ha, since when has CPF been about practicality? If that were the case we'd all post about the one flashlight we have


----------



## RI Chevy

True Dat.


----------



## tobrien

cland72 said:


> Ha, since when has CPF been about practicality? If that were the case we'd all post about the one flashlight we have



very well put lol


----------



## Grizzman

RI Chevy said:


> It is a cool light, but it does not look "very handy." It looks like a good specific user, but not very handy due to its size and bezel heavy weight.



I recently got the chance to briefly use an M4 with turbo head and was surprised at how light the head actually was. It balanced quite nicely, but sure won't allow for jeans pocket carry.


----------



## novice

Deleted. I struggle with images if I can't just copy and paste. I will review the photobucket info again.


----------



## think2x

Eric242 said:


>



Just looking back through the thread and this is STILL one of the best looking ones IMO.


----------



## novice

"Deleted". I _am_ sorry for wasting the airspace. When I try to link to photobucket (by entering the URL to the photobucket page), the "image" is always "broken". I apologize for the chronic_ verklempt_ behavior. In any event, the picture was a KL1 bezel attached to one of Fivemega's 1x18350 body/tailswitch products, and it is _significantly_ more comfortable in my hands than my E1EW winelight. Carry on...

[Edit: I think the link is working now, even if the image itself didn't post. Many thanks to all who assisted. I had to do some "updating" in Photobucket.

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p618/nuubee1/KLI_18350_800pix_zps16b5db58.jpg


----------



## 880arm

novice said:


> "Deleted". I _am_ sorry for wasting the airspace. When I try to link to photobucket (by entering the URL to the photobucket page), the "image" is always "broken". I apologize for the chronic_ verklempt_ behavior. In any event, the picture was a KL1 bezel attached to one of Fivemega's 1x18350 body/tailswitch products, and it is _significantly_ more comfortable in my hands than my E1EW winelight. Carry on...



Don't give up. PM Incoming!


----------



## cland72

novice said:


> "Deleted". I _am_ sorry for wasting the airspace. When I try to link to photobucket (by entering the URL to the photobucket page), the "image" is always "broken". I apologize for the chronic_ verklempt_ behavior. In any event, the picture was a KL1 bezel attached to one of Fivemega's 1x18350 body/tailswitch products, and it is _significantly_ more comfortable in my hands than my E1EW winelight. Carry on...



Maybe this will help.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...M2RU3SviXLMudHoo2rDt3bg&bvm=bv.60444564,d.aWc


----------



## novice

Thanks to everyone who offered aid. At the very least, I have a functioning live link up, in post #942.


----------



## RI Chevy

Cool little light there. I'll help ya post it up for viewing pleasure.


----------



## kmart356

Well you have to start with something... this is my start for a C2 based lego ->






Now I need a SS or Ti clicky tail cap. I will update the post with progress.


----------



## el_Pablo

kmart356 said:


> Well you have to start with something... this is my start for a C2 based lego ->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need a SS or Ti clicky tail cap. I will update the post with progress.




well done, was it a black model that you stripped in acid solution?


----------



## kmart356

el_Pablo said:


> well done, was it a black model that you stripped in acid solution?



It came to me as shown...it does look stripped down to raw AL, but the method is not known. At least it was a gentle method as the KL3 markings are still clearly visible.

Here it is on a 6P-GM body... pretty *close* match. I polished it up with Flitz and soft cloth.


----------



## tobrien

kmart356 said:


> It came to me as shown...it does look stripped down to raw AL, but the method is not known. At least it was a gentle method as the KL3 markings are still clearly visible.
> 
> Here it is on a 6P-GM body... pretty *close* match. I polished it up with Flitz and soft cloth.
> 
> http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t400/pasaje8/Surefire6P-SGw_KL3polished_zps9ade8015.jpg[/IG][/QUOTE]
> holy cow, nice work!


----------



## Eric242

It´s been a while since I built/posted a Surefire Lego light. Recently I bought an EB1 Tactical from maxbelg - originally I bought it only to sntach up the clip, attach a regular e-series clip and resell the light again. But I really liked the head - not so much with it´s original body and tailcap. So I sold the body/tailcap and put the head on an Aleph 123 power pack with a McTC tailcap and attached an Overady SS clip (from one of their delrin tailcap shrouds). Looks much better that way and I like the UI with the McClicky better than the original two way twisty. And the little gap the McTC leaves is perfect for a GITD o-ring.


----------



## Tana

Eric242 said:


> It´s been a while since I built/posted a Surefire Lego light. Recently I bought an EB1 Tactical from maxbelg - originally I bought it only to sntach up the clip, attach a regular e-series clip and resell the light again. But I really liked the head - not so much with it´s original body and tailcap. So I sold the body/tailcap and put the head on an Aleph 123 power pack with a McTC tailcap and attached an Overady SS clip (from one of their delrin tailcap shrouds). Looks much better that way and I like the UI with the McClicky better than the original two way twisty. And the little gap the McTC leaves is perfect for a GITD o-ring.



Beautiful lego there, Eric... I like the simple solution of how to attach the clip to Aleph tailcap...


----------



## kmart356

Surefire L1 lego - removed electronics, modded tailcap for a smidgeon more space, added E2C + Malkoff M61 XP-G. L1 twisty makes this a 2-mode (med/high)


----------



## Mikeg23

I've got an L2 that I did something similar with and I wonder what kind of amperage/voltage that switch is good for. If I run a lumens factory single mode with 9 volts the switch gets pretty warm... Note that the switch is not in the tail cap currently I have the tail cap apart and just holding the switch in my fingers


----------



## tongkang

Very best good looking pocket thrower u having there sir :twothumbs...are the lens came in frosted or crystal clear please..Thanks




Eric242 said:


>


----------



## Eric242

Thanks  The lens on this one is slightly frosted.

Eric


----------



## tongkang

Nice...the frosted will out throw the crystal clear for sure



Eric242 said:


> Thanks  The lens on this one is slightly frosted.
> 
> Eric


----------



## cenz

Found a machinist to made 26XXX extenders, convert 26500 to 26650! (as AW26500 is discontinued,26650 is more poplular)






and made some smoothly 26650 extenders...


----------



## erehwyrevekool

Good job, for sure much more versatile! :thumbsup:


----------



## Eric242

Does it take bananas instead of the 26650 as well? just kidding

Eric


----------



## Bullzeyebill

tongkang said:


> Nice...the frosted will out throw the crystal clear for sure



Usually a smooth reflector will out throw a orange peel reflector, even a LOP.

Bill


----------



## UVvis




----------



## jamesmtl514

Very nice!


----------



## GhostReaction

Anybody could advise me how I could make nailbender D36 dropin work in the M3 head and C2 body? I m using lumens factory collar C/M adaptor but can't seem to get proper contact for the module to light up :tinfoil: 
I was too inspired by Eric's C2 legos and just went ahead hunting down parts. But can't get it to work 
Appreciate any advise.


----------



## cenz

GhostReaction said:


> Anybody could advise me how I could make nailbender D36 dropin work in the M3 head and C2 body? I m using lumens factory collar C/M adaptor but can't seem to get proper contact for the module to light up :tinfoil:
> I was too inspired by Eric's C2 legos and just went ahead hunting down parts. But can't get it to work
> Appreciate any advise.



Any gap appear from M3 head <-> C to M adaptor ?
Is the D36's spring exactly for C head?
Is your C2 head inner surface coated HAIII? 

I guess the negative spring is abit fat for your C2 head.


----------



## cland72

GhostReaction said:


> [URL]http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l187/zulsairi/DSC_1599_zps9f6d7dba.jpg[/URL]
> Anybody could advise me how I could make nailbender D36 dropin work in the M3 head and C2 body? I m using lumens factory collar C/M adaptor but can't seem to get proper contact for the module to light up :tinfoil:
> I was too inspired by Eric's C2 legos and just went ahead hunting down parts. But can't get it to work
> Appreciate any advise.



How did you insert the NB drop in to the Z46? Did you remove the bezel and drop it in, then replace the shock foam, o-rings, and finally the bezel ring?


----------



## Eric242

GhostReaction said:


> I was too inspired by Eric's C2 legos and just went ahead hunting down parts. But can't get it to work


Usually the contact issue is the positive spring which doesn´t reach far enough down into the body due to the c/m adapter. You´ll need a spacer magnet between the cells. Make sure the magnet can not touch the walls to prevent a short. You could glue it into a plastic washer for example. Also, as chris already mentioned, make sure the dropin is inserted first (from the front) and then the shock foam and all the other crap. Sometimes people insert the shock foam first, dropin then which is not only bad for heatsinking but also let´s the dropin sit too high in the head. Sometime the outer spring for the negative contact is too thick and should be replace by a thinner one or cut down until it fits. But try the spacer magnet first.

Hope that helps.
Cheers
Eric


----------



## GhostReaction

After several more attempt to put the M3 head onto the adapter and C2 body, it does seems that the drop in was specifically made for the M3. 
The stock M3 body could easily fit in the D36 dropin. The collar bore is definitely much wider than the C2. 
Chris, the NB D36 was fitted drop in first and so forth as what was shown in the D36 sale thread. 
The lumens factory collar is slightly narrow for the NB D36 reflector. Everytime I tried to tighten everything together,the shock foam will start to get squished and further tightening results in the foam to pop out of place.

Having said and done all those. I had finally managed to very slowly tighten the pieces together without the shock foam popping out place.
Ended up with a gap between the M3 head and LF C/M adapter. 
And yes! You are right Eric, once fixed it's the positive contact spring that doesn't touch the batts.  will DIY some spacer.
Till then the NB drop in stays in my stock M3. 
Thank you all for the help :thumbsup:


----------



## Eric242

GhostReaction said:


> Everytime I tried to tighten everything together,the shock foam will start to get squished and further tightening results in the foam to pop out of place.


Right, I forgot that one.....had this issue as well and I was simply cutting the shock foam.... I´d say probably in half until it was ok. Of course that´s a no go if one wanted the mod to be reversible.

And I have to mention I never used the LF adpter. I only used the leef c/m adapter (had two of these once) and a surefire (from a KL3).

Eric


----------



## UVvis

Random stuff.


----------



## tobrien

UVvis said:


> Random stuff.


that's legit. nice Z3 above btw


----------



## tongkang

Not not gonna happen with this SF EB1 new vs 1st batch..IIRC saw the new catalog they rated the new at 6k cd only..that's why I think..or maybe Its just me




Bullzeyebill said:


> Usually a smooth reflector will out throw a orange peel reflector, even a LOP.
> 
> Bill


----------



## GhostReaction

Alright, finally manage to complete my lego. 

Totally removed the shock foam from the M3 head. Fits in nicely. Positive contact via 5 stack magnets and foam sleeve cut out off Nerf dart. It worked well and loving the setup.







Thanks to all SF lego masters for the tips on C2 with M3 head setup.


----------



## tobrien

that's an amazing looking LEGO setup GhostReaction!


----------



## kmart356

E-series legos are fun 
oo: ...some modern and some retro, it all fits together so nicely.


----------



## erehwyrevekool

Hey *kmart*, very nice legos! :thumbsup:
What about the bezel ring of Backup head in the second pic, is it SS or bare Aluminum?

:wave:


----------



## kmart356

erehwyrevekool said:


> Hey *kmart*, very nice legos! :thumbsup:
> What about the bezel ring of Backup head in the second pic, is it SS or bare Aluminum?
> 
> :wave:



i stripped the ano off and polished it up... "in situ". It is not perfect but I like the look of two shiny ends.


----------



## erehwyrevekool

Good job, I like it.


----------



## think2x

-LU60 Collar
-G2 tail
-AN14 trimmed slightly
-Solarforce L2T Bezel
-SS bezel ring
-17mm to 14mm sleeve
-Nailbender 0.8-3.0V module
-1xAA cell


----------



## tobrien

think2x said:


> -LU60 Collar
> -G2 tail
> -AN14 trimmed slightly
> -Solarforce L2T Bezel
> -SS bezel ring
> -17mm to 14mm sleeve
> -Nailbender 0.8-3.0V module
> -1xAA cell



now THAT is creativity!


----------



## think2x

Thanks Tucker, feels GREAT in the hand too.


----------



## Kif

More Legos:

KT4 + LM90 adapter + A21 + Z58










Z44 + L60 adapter (older type) + A21 + Z59


----------



## Tana

Took me a while to source all parts but... finally !!!


----------



## jamesmtl514

She's a beauty!


----------



## Bullzeyebill

Tana said:


> Took me a while to source all parts but... finally !!!



KL4, Lux V or Seoul P4?

Bill


----------



## Tana

Bullzeyebill said:


> KL4, Lux V or Seoul P4?
> 
> Bill



It's LuxV (so works on single CR123)... but not for long... :devil:


----------



## Treeguy

Well, this seems like the place to ask; is there a not too expensive way to make my 320 lumen 6PX Defender into a thrower with a nice tight hotspot and not the flood that it is?

Thanks.


----------



## beezwaxx

Maybe try a different drop-in? Maybe something with a smooth reflector, and an XM-L2?

Here are my legos:







E1 Executive I've had for years, original Xenon lamp/head blown after inserting a 3.5v cell in it. VME head, Nailbender Nichia 219 drop-in, McClicky. Any ideas for a glass lens?






Fivemega 18650 body, Surefire bezel and tailcap, McClicky, Nailbender Nichia 219, Prometheus clip, AR glass lens.


----------



## jamesmtl514

Really liking that Fivemega light Beez


----------



## andyz

Not sure if this qualifies but I will call it Green Lego


----------



## jamesmtl514

Definitely qualifies. Can you provide some info?


----------



## andyz

I will, its a mod I did a while ago now along with some other green lasers. Will take some more pics of the insides and some info when I get back tonight.


----------



## andyz

Picture showing modified head and CR123 Battery




Front face machined from solid Deralin Plastic




Contact to battery surface is a wide ring which only allows contact with the negative side of battery.




Aluminium heat sink surrounds Laser Module, Deralin mid section separates positive body from negative battery connection point. Access hole for trim pot adjustment.


----------



## Tana

andyz said:


> Picture showing modified head and CR123 Battery
> 
> Front face machined from solid Deralin Plastic
> 
> Contact to battery surface is a wide ring which only allows contact with the negative side of battery.
> 
> Aluminium heat sink surrounds Laser Module, Deralin mid section separates positive body from negative battery connection point. Access hole for trim pot adjustment.



Now, THAT is cool... not a fan of lasers but wouldn't mind having a black E2E laser... wow... great work, andyz !!!


----------



## RI Chevy

Cool! I was always wondering if there was such a thing as a P60 type of laser drop in that I could add to my collection. :thumbsup:


----------



## tobrien

that green SF laser is pretty sick.

"hey man, can you give us some light here?"
"uhhm, no, not safely..."


----------



## Dingle1911

RI Chevy said:


> Cool! I was always wondering if there was such a thing as a P60 type of laser drop in that I could add to my collection. :thumbsup:



I like the idea of a P60 laser module. Does anyone know where I can get one?


----------



## cland72

I've had a LU60, Z44, and Z41 laying around for quite some time now with no real idea what to do with them. I checked out a couple of posts earlier in this thread, and I now have an A21 on the way to make a knock off 3P :naughty:


----------



## Tana

Surefire E1T


----------



## jamie.91

This is CPF's best thread!

I'm I'm super happy! Just scored two parts I've been wanting for a while now on eBay! A z59 and a turbo head!

Edit: it's here!


----------



## T45

jamie.91 said:


> This is CPF's best thread!
> 
> I'm I'm super happy! Just scored two parts I've been wanting for a while now on eBay! A z59 and a turbo head!
> 
> Edit: it's here!



I like your collection!


----------



## jamie.91

Thanks me too haha! Still a few more I'd like though!!


----------



## Tana

Surefire U2 is coming back in style with recent mods but also lego-bility with certain parts...





EDIT (30-Jun-2014):

After the threads are sanded down to proper height, the complete lego looks like this:


----------



## Monocrom

For a second there, I thought that was a cheap Chinese knock-off.


----------



## Bullzeyebill

Tana, what is that piece between the U2 body and the head. Some type of adapter,no doubt?

Bill


----------



## Tana

Bullzeyebill said:


> Tana, what is that piece between the U2 body and the head. Some type of adapter,no doubt?
> 
> Bill



That is a stock LM1 Forend WeaponLight on stock U2 body/tail... threads need to be cut for 2-3mm to leave no gap between head/body but that's after the LM1 is modded...

As for adapter, I'm negotiating with one company to try to make a run of brass adapters (18mm cell compatible) that would turn any U2 body into e-head/c-tail setup... then modded KL4 and KX2 heads can be combined for similarly slim black HA lego... like cland72 said in the other thread, bulletproof pocket clip, HA finish and a nice knurled body...


----------



## Tana

Monocrom said:


> For a second there, I thought that was a cheap Chinese knock-off.



:twothumbs


----------



## tobrien

tana if you get those adapters made I'll be up to buy one if the price is right


----------



## RI Chevy

What battery are you using in there? Host looks small for 2 x CR123's.


----------



## Tana

tobrien said:


> tana if you get those adapters made I'll be up to buy one if the price is right



As soon as I have more info I'll post either here or somewhere in my threads... really have no idea about pricing, I always do everything on my own (one man army) but threads are still above my league and my lathe...



RI Chevy said:


> What battery are you using in there? Host looks small for 2 x CR123's.



Hard to believe but both 2xCR123 and 1x18650 cell configuration fits (this is one of those 18650-friendly from the factory body)... the secret is in the modded head - there is a positive contact spring installed there which compensates for slightly shorter body... no battery crushing... Stock Surefire heads like KL4 and KX2 would deform the cells for sure...

EDIT:
Oh wait, which pic are you referring to ??? The one with LM1 fits like a glove and even if threads get cut down to proper length there should be enough space for 2xCR123 w/o crushing...


----------



## RI Chevy

The light in post 1006. The digital u2 ultra. Thank you for the description. You do very nice work! :thumbsup:


----------



## 46Alpha

tobrien said:


> tana if you get those adapters made I'll be up to buy one if the price is right



+1. That looks great!


----------



## 46Alpha

Tana said:


> As soon as I have more info I'll post either here or somewhere in my threads... really have no idea about pricing, I always do everything on my own (one man army) but threads are still above my league and my lathe...
> 
> 
> 
> Hard to believe but both 2xCR123 and 1x18650 cell configuration fits (this is one of those 18650-friendly from the factory body)... the secret is in the modded head - there is a positive contact spring installed there which compensates for slightly shorter body... no battery crushing... Stock Surefire heads like KL4 and KX2 would deform the cells for sure...
> 
> EDIT:
> Oh wait, which pic are you referring to ??? The one with LM1 fits like a glove and even if threads get cut down to proper length there should be enough space for 2xCR123 w/o crushing...



Tana,

If I were looking around, you know, just in case 

What other lights use the U2 body?

The bodies for the Korma and Vampire look the same, save for the switch. Am I correct in this?


----------



## cland72

46Alpha said:


> Tana,
> 
> If I were looking around, you know, just in case
> 
> What other lights use the U2 body?
> 
> The bodies for the Korma and Vampire look the same, save for the switch. Am I correct in this?



I'll confirm the heads from the Kroma, U2, and Vampire are interchangeable (not sure on the tailcaps since the Kroma and Vamp are diff than the U2). As are LU60 adapters (typically used with the M951/M952) if you wish to use a Z44 bezel.


----------



## 46Alpha

cland72 said:


> I'll confirm the heads from the Kroma, U2, and Vampire are interchangeable (not sure on the tailcaps since the Kroma and Vamp are diff than the U2). As are LU60 adapters (typically used with the M951/M952) if you wish to use a Z44 bezel.



Thanks Chris, that's what I thought. 

If Tana gets a few of the adapters, I'm thinking a KL4 head modded to a T1000 triple on a U2 body with an 18650 cell.


----------



## Tana

I also believe U2, Vampire and Kroma bodies to be exactly the same - tailcaps differ but then we all have our own personal favorite to replace the stock; I'm rather emotionally tied to 6PX tailcap upgraded with OR McClicky kit... 

KL4 head with TripLED T1000 on U2 body (already 18650-friendly) is also my goal here... plus - I can take the Reflector head from my single-cell EDC, use on that same body with 18650 for some extra runtime... gotta love lego...


----------



## Tana

LEGO !!!





I believe that this set from Malkoff has this type of adapter but probably not wide enough to accept 18650 cells...

http://www.malkoffdevices.com/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=135


----------



## AndyF

Tana said:


> LEGO !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe that this set from Malkoff has this type of adapter but probably not wide enough to accept 18650 cells...
> 
> http://www.malkoffdevices.com/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=135



I'm curious how a VME would look on your U2 lego.


----------



## Tana

AndyF said:


> I'm curious how a VME would look on your U2 lego.



I'll try to post a pic tomorrow of it...


----------



## 46Alpha

Tana said:


> LEGO !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe that this set from Malkoff has this type of adapter but probably not wide enough to accept 18650 cells...
> 
> http://www.malkoffdevices.com/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=135



So should I just send you money now? :thumbsup:

That came out great. PLEASE tell me you're going to do a run of these.


----------



## AndyF

UVvis said:


> All surefire and malkoff parts.



Can someone explain the body/battery configurations of these?. Thanks.


----------



## think2x

AndyF said:


> Can someone explain the body/battery configurations of these?. Thanks.



I'll give it a go and if if miss something someone else chime in to correct me.

Top to bottom and head to tail.

Top light: (3x123 size but likely running 2xAA?) KX2C, body from a 2 cell Malkoff forend light, Surefire A21, A19, Z41

Middle light2x123) Surefire EB2 head, 2 cell Malkoff forend body, A21, Malkoff Tail cap

Bottom light1x123) Malkoff 1 cell forend light, A21, Z49


----------



## AndyF

Thank you sir. So the A21 is the common link.


----------



## tobrien

nice, those three legos are awesome IMO


----------



## UVvis

Think2X has it!

Yep, A21 is very versatile.


----------



## cenz

My newest M*gfire feat. 64275/1160







sorry,no any SF thing in this one...


----------



## jamesmtl514

Cool light, but this iiisss the surefire Lego thread.


----------



## cenz

jamesmtl514 said:


> Cool light, but this iiisss the surefire Lego thread.



yes you're right, so the light is Surefire "system" lego (C head and M head inside)


----------



## 880arm

Haven't seen these combinations on here yet . . .









These were built using the head from an M600P Fury Scout Light which works fine on E-series lights. Cosmetically it's not a perfect fit as the head tapers down narrower than the outer edge of the E-series body but that has no affect on function. 

Something a little bit different :thumbsup:


----------



## Monocrom

Woah! Those look NICE!


----------



## Dioni

wow... very nice! :thumbsup::rock:


----------



## jamie.91

MN20 and cells finally showed up to complete this

http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss141/jamie91_2009/FF8257AB-6287-4ED4-AE99-EA893A469441.jpg

http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss141/jamie91_2009/0F52C51B-6206-415A-B56B-445FDD14FBF4.jpg


----------



## Lomandor

jamie.91 said:


> MN20 and cells finally showed up to complete this
> 
> http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss141/jamie91_2009/FF8257AB-6287-4ED4-AE99-EA893A469441.jpg
> 
> http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss141/jamie91_2009/0F52C51B-6206-415A-B56B-445FDD14FBF4.jpg



Just thought I'd fix the links for ya bud! :thumbsup: Looks sweeeeet! What body is that.


----------



## jamie.91

Thanks 
It's a 2x18650 by fivemega, top quality!


----------



## Lomandor

jamie.91 said:


> Thanks
> It's a 2x18650 by fivemega, top quality!



Looks awesome, Batman will be proud! Wow only 4 surefires and you already have a KT1 and Z49...


----------



## jamie.91

Lomandor said:


> Looks awesome, Batman will be proud! Wow only 4 surefires and you already have a KT1 and Z49...



I should update my sig lol
Got a few more now including an SW02


----------



## Lomandor

jamie.91 said:


> I should update my sig lol
> Got a few more now including an SW02



Well you can tell which one is The king on that chess board! 

They are all Nicely showcased I see! :thumbsup:


----------



## think2x

I finally finished IMO my Ultimate SF LEGO and Battery Vampire.

Here are the goodies.
-Malkoff M31*LL*
-Yellow Nitrolon G2 head
-Yellow Nitrolon G2 tail fitted with a McClicky
-LU60
-A21
-Slightly Modded AN14 in yellow
-17mm to 14mm delrin sleeve for 1xAA epoxied into AN14 to isolate the ITP adapter from internals.
-ITP Ti A3 body with tail post and threads filed off. Also internal neg spring shortened (not required)





Using A21 and 1xcr123 power.




Using AN14 and 1xAA power.




Showing an AA beside the ITP adapter with AAA in it.




And finally, using the AN14, ITP adapter and 1xAAA power


----------



## cland72

Golf clap. Well done think2x.


----------



## Dioni

Ugly... C3 with SW02 and P116c bezel






Most ugly ever... 5x18650! :sick2:


----------



## RI Chevy

LOL... Also a little hard to find a drop in that won't blow up!


----------



## tobrien

think2x, that is absolutely incredible. nice work man!! is that a Budweiser nitrolon head? hahah

Dioni, we'll have 5x 18650 drop-ins one day


----------



## think2x

tobrien said:


> think2x, that is absolutely incredible. nice work man!! is that a Budweiser nitrolon head? hahah



Thanks Tucker. Yes it is a Budweiser Nitrolon head. It was from a G2 that I got in trade from Viper715.


----------



## Dioni

RI Chevy said:


> LOL... Also a little hard to find a drop in that won't blow up!





tobrien said:


> Dioni, we'll have 5x 18650 drop-ins one day





haha.. :laughing:


----------



## RI Chevy

It would have to have a voltage range of 12.5 to 21v. :thumbsup:


----------



## tobrien

think2x said:


> Thanks Tucker. Yes it is a Budweiser Nitrolon head. It was from a G2 that I got in trade from Viper715.


ah that's really pretty cool!


----------



## DoctorSolo

I thought I would ask here:

So I have this little guy waiting on a Malkoff M61WL:






I received it as a gift somewhere around 1997. Do all of the heads and tailcaps for 6Ps still fit my old guy? I would like to put a Mclicky tail on it, but I'd like to make sure my 6P isn't too old to be compatible will all of these goodies....


----------



## cland72

DoctorSolo said:


> I thought I would ask here:
> 
> Do all of the heads and tailcaps for 6Ps still fit my old guy?



Yep! Nice light!


----------



## archimedes

cland72 said:


> Yep! Nice light!



... and be sure to save all of those old parts


----------



## DoctorSolo

Yeah it looks like these are the AR-15 of the flashlight world. Build one...Get some more parts here and there, then watch them multiply lol.


----------



## tobrien

Eric242 said:


> I put this one together a few days ago. I never liked Surefire´s Nitrolon lights, but when I saw the G3D-FYL body I thought it might work on a M3. Has a Cree XP-G dropin and a AW softstart switch in a Z58 shell.



hey man, this lego setup is one I've always admired and I wanted to ask, when you said "A surefire adapter, salvaged from a KL3." which adapter piece is that?

This setup is one I've wanted to make for myself ever since I laid eyes on it!


----------



## Up All Night

tobrien said:


> hey man, this lego setup is one I've always admired and I wanted to ask, when you said "A surefire adapter, salvaged from a KL3." which adapter piece is that? This setup is one I've wanted to make for myself ever since I laid eyes on it!


 C to M adapter. KL3, KL5 heads have them from the factory. Lighthound sells the Lumens Factory C to M adapter, not sure if theirs is available in black. Sent from my PS3! Ha! I could run a mile faster!!


----------



## Monocrom

Up All Night said:


> C to M adapter. KL3, KL5 heads have them from the factory. Lighthound sells the Lumens Factory C to M adapter, not sure if theirs is available in black. Sent from my PS3! Ha! I could run a mile faster!!



Even if it's not, a can of black spray paint will fix that.


----------



## Eric242

Yes, the lower part of both KL3 and KL5 are c2m adapters. But they come off very very hard. It appears that Surefire had way too mich loctite to get rid of when the produced the KL3 and KL5. I´ve destroyed another KL3 in the unsuccessful effort to salvage the adapter.

@Up All Night: Why do you assume Tobrien wants a black adapter?


----------



## Lomandor

Eric242 said:


> @Up All Night: Why do you assume Tobrien wants a black adapter?


. 
 Lol!


----------



## mcm308

I think I can put this here. Simple and effective. Leef 18500x2 body, Z44 head, Z41 tail. Soon to be a clicky. I have a Nailbender XRE R2 drop in and a P90 incan I can run. I think 18500x2 is the perfect size. And the XRE packs a little punch.


----------



## Up All Night

Eric242 said:


> @Up All Night: Why do you assume Tobrien wants a black adapter?



I hadn't assumed anything. The monitor and angle I viewed the pic on made the head/collar/tail appear more black than dark H/A green/grey. Far darker than similar components I have. Opposed to the image of the LF C2M on the lighthound site, which looks almost like raw Al.

If colour is/was any part of the interest in the set-up, the LF adapter isn't going to cut it.


----------



## Eric242

That´s certainly true. The LF adapter doesn´t really fit anything with it´s anodising.

Eric


----------



## ForrestChump

What would happen if you switched heads / tailcaps on an ED1L with and ED2L? I think I know the answer but just want to hear it.

There both true 2 mode lights ( in the head ) so I would think the tail caps would be Identical.


----------



## flashlight nut

Not really an original lego but it's what's inside that makes this unique. Just got the L1 body back from Barry at Precision Works. I had damaged the driver trying to take it out of the body (another story) so I sent the L1 to Barry to have it bored out for 18mm. Now I can run primaries or a variety of rechargeables with many head choices. Right now I am running a Malkoff M61 219 in a VME Head on 2 primaries in a Delrin sleeve. Also added the 2 way clip and attached a combat ring (rubber oring) to the lanyard ring. Everything fits perfectly. My hat off to Barry at Precision Woks.




[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## 880arm

ForrestChump said:


> What would happen if you switched heads / tailcaps on an ED1L with and ED2L? I think I know the answer but just want to hear it.
> 
> There both true 2 mode lights ( in the head ) so I would think the tail caps would be Identical.



The tailcaps are identical. As far as swapping heads is concerned I would expect the E2DL head wouldn't work very well on just one CR123 but would do so-so with an RCR123. Don't know about the E1DL head on the 2 cell body . . . I'm not willing to try it!



flashlight nut said:


> Not really an original lego but it's what's inside that makes this unique . . . .



That's a nifty rig there! :twothumbs


----------



## erehwyrevekool

flashlight nut said:


> ...... so I sent the L1 to Barry to have it bored out for 18mm. Now I can run primaries or a variety of rechargeables with many head choices.


Just curious to know if 18650 batteries can fit and, if the answer is yes, if that cells can be loaded only from the tail or from both sides!


----------



## flashlight nut

erehwyrevekool said:


> Just curious to know if 18650 batteries can fit and, if the answer is yes, if that cells can be loaded only from the tail or from both sides!



Yes, the 18650s are slightly shorter than 2 primaries in series so they fit just fine. Barry left a "lip" on the tail end so rechargeables need to be loaded from the head side. Primaries can still be loaded from the tail side.


----------



## BloodCleanSoul

Will a Fury head fit on a 6P original body and tail? How does the black anodizing match up? Are they noticeably different shade/types of black? I loved my Fury but it was a bit slippy, so if it would look half decent I would rock a Fury head on a 6P body…Thoughts anyone or an example?


----------



## cland72

BloodCleanSoul said:


> Will a Fury head fit on a 6P original body and tail? How does the black anodizing match up? Are they noticeably different shade/types of black? I loved my Fury but it was a bit slippy, so if it would look half decent I would rock a Fury head on a 6P body…Thoughts anyone or an example?



No, the Fury head is not compatible with the 6P body. The finishes are different enough you'd notice the difference.

You can buy one of FiveMega's $urefire bored Fury bodies. He has one or two offerings that have knurling on them, similar to the 6P.


----------



## BloodCleanSoul

cland72 said:


> No, the Fury head is not compatible with the 6P body. The finishes are different enough you'd notice the difference.
> 
> You can buy one of FiveMega's $urefire bored Fury bodies. He has one or two offerings that have knurling on them, similar to the 6P.



10-4! Thanks so much!


----------



## Hiro Protagonist

2015 bump!


----------



## Hiro Protagonist




----------



## Hiro Protagonist




----------



## Illluminator

Has anyone tried using a EB2 Tactical head on an A2L Body? Will it function with the two stage tailcap at 5 and 500 lumens? Also aesthetically how does tan look in real life on a Natural HA body? Sorry for the bad photoshopping skills...


----------



## AndyF

Malkoff forend kit/Surefire A21/Ronac Standoff tail.


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


----------



## AndyF

E2D body/Aleph3 bezel/RPM E-series tail cap.



Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


----------



## nein166

I'd like to play along with you guys but maybe I should stick to Lego building blocks, I think I'm doing this wrong :thinking:


----------



## Lomandor

nein166 said:


> I'd like to play along with you guys but maybe I should stick to Lego building blocks, I think I'm doing this wrong :thinking:



Lol!

Which way up do you prefer for EDC'n


----------



## Up All Night

I think you need to stop taking cues from your lab assistant nein166! What was his handle? . . . .Oh yeah, Eyegor.


----------



## cland72

nein166 said:


> I'd like to play along with you guys but maybe I should stick to Lego building blocks, I think I'm doing this wrong :thinking:



Haha, it reminds me of a double headed... something...


----------



## Lomandor

cland72 said:


> Haha, it reminds me of a double headed... something...



Im pretty sure I've seen it in Star Wars used by Darth Maul...


----------



## Tana

It does resembles something from Dr. Dolittle...


----------



## nein166

Lomandor said:


> Im pretty sure I've seen it in Star Wars used by Darth Maul...



Yes thats exactly what I was thinking...

The M1 is my EDC using an Armytec Wizard Pro Clip with a tab snapped off
Milky put a IMS20 reflector and XP-G + Acorn driver in it. UL-L-M-H memory


----------



## python

angelofwar said:


> by mOk, want to get make an end-all one stop shop for what parts attach to what, etc. What do you guys think of this color coded diagram? Make sense? If so, I'll finish adding the other parts and get measurements next to the images and stuff. Thoughts? opinions? Recomendations? If you find it useful, say so, and maybe we can get one of the mods' to a) make it a sticky (once it's finished), or b) place it an already existing sticky. If not, I'll link to this post in my sig, so all you have to do is find a post from me.
> 
> NOTE: UPDATED 30 Mar 11
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a pic of the pieces as they fit together and some battery configs...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the Millenium Weapon-Lights...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the Hand-Helds...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Adapters by them selves for easy ID...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, if ya like it, say so, and I can add some more tail-caps with model numbers, the weapon light bodies, etc. so people can stop posting "Can the A21 fit the Z49?" and the endless "Lego" question postings. I will include underneath a quick detail of what the item "essentially" does, e.g.
> 
> A14=Converts 6P to 6R/to accept B65's
> A19=One cell extender for "P" Series lights. (i.e. 6P to 9P, etc.)
> A21=Converts L60 to side weapon mounted (instead of attaching to dedicated fore-end., and/or converts it to a handheld.
> 
> (Al, I have some corrections to make name wise, etc. and will try to have them updated on my next post...I'll just update the pictures here instead of posting new pic's on a new post, for example the LU10 being the body part AND bezel, etc.)
> 
> ???



You can send these pictures again?


----------



## nein166

python said:


> You can send these pictures again?


Such a loss to this thread


----------



## RI Chevy

Agreed. We need those photos back. It was a great compilation. All the photos together in one place.


----------



## tobrien

RI Chevy said:


> Agreed. We need those photos back. It was a great compilation. All the photos together in one place.



CPF says he was last active July 2014


----------



## angelofwar

Sorry guys...Life happened, I had to give up most of my collection, but I still have a few of my beloved SF's, and they are still my go to light....so, here they are again in all there former gloy, this time to stay!

(EDIT: Gimme a few minutes...LOL!)

Hold on...one sec...







Wait a sec...wrong pic :0)

Nope, this isn't it either...






Here's one I did up showing the different adapters and how they can be configured...






Here we go!!!

M-Series adapters:






"P" Series adapters:





























And some physical pics:


----------



## Up All Night

Glad to see these back! Some of these "charts" were invaluable in helping me out along the way!
Thanks A.O.W.! :thumbsup:


----------



## python

Up All Night said:


> Glad to see these back! Some of these "charts" were invaluable in helping me out along the way!
> Thanks A.O.W.! :thumbsup:



Me too.
Thank you angelofwar.


----------



## Lomandor

Yup yup! Very happy


----------



## tobrien

hell yeah, AOW is back!


----------



## Lomandor




----------



## Eric242

Hey Jamali, what the hell did you to to that Emerson C2  Cool lego nonetheless :thumbsup:


----------



## Tana

Aesthetics check, please... how well does this Solarforce L2P go with Z2X ???

I'm not very fond of this idea but L2P is basically S1 tailcap - and Tofty's 10A switch (needed for Quad with DD driver) will probably only fit S1/L2P, not Z41 (still don't have switch with me)... so I'm playing with the alternative idea until I try Tofty and two other switches and their fitments in Z41 to handle up to 10A currents...


----------



## cland72

Normally I don't dig on inter-SF relationships, but in this case I will say that it doesn't look half bad...


----------



## Eric242

Yep, I think it doesn´t look too bad as well. Makes a good balance to the rather big head.


----------



## Lomandor

Eric242 said:


> Hey Jamali, what the hell did you to to that Emerson C2  Cool lego nonetheless :thumbsup:



lol! I must have to many sets...


----------



## DoctorSolo

Does anyone know if the X300 weapon light head can be swapped? Is it the same size as an M600 Scout? I cannot find any info on upgrading or changing the LED on those(plenty of info on the shotgun fore ends and the scout lights but not the X300).

Thought it was pertinent and didn't want to start a whole new thread just for that...


----------



## Tana

cland72 said:


> Normally I don't dig on inter-SF relationships, but in this case I will say that it doesn't look half bad...





Eric242 said:


> Yep, I think it doesn´t look too bad as well. Makes a good balance to the rather big head.



Thanks, guys... none of the three different sample switches that I will try to stuff inside Z41 even started their journey my way so it will be a while until I'm sure if I even have to use that Solarforce tailcap...


----------



## JohnSmith




----------



## Lomandor

Sweet looking M3!


----------



## willoughby1303

It's hard in the UK to obtain custom bits for Surefires, I'm current to running an z2 combatlight t6 bulb and an aw 17670 as my duty light,

Backup light is a g2 with r2 bulb and aw 123's

I have just bought an m6lt and am in need of a custom battery holder but have seen they are no longer available, if anyone can help me that would be great, either 2 x 18750 or 3 x 17670


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


----------



## DUQ

willoughby1303 said:


> I have just bought an m6lt and am in need of a custom battery holder but have seen they are no longer available, if anyone can help me that would be great, either 2 x 18750 or 3 x 17670



Look here Mr. Willoughby

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?397529-2x18650-urefire-M6-battery-holder-By-Fivemega

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?266142-M6-Deep-Tail-Cap-2x26500


----------



## Lion of Zion

Any way to turn a 6p or 9p into a 3-aa light?


----------



## cland72

Lion of Zion said:


> Any way to turn a 6p or 9p into a 3-aa light?



Put a Surefire A14 extender on a 9P and it'll fit 3xAA.


----------



## Lion of Zion

cland72 said:


> Put a Surefire A14 extender on a 9P and it'll fit 3xAA.



Thanks!! Just the info I was looking for. Already posted a WTB add.


----------



## mckeand13

JohnSmith said:


>



What head/belzel is this?


----------



## Up All Night

^^
KX9 LED head.


----------



## Str8stroke




----------



## Str8stroke

SureFire Backup LegoTurbo


----------



## Lomandor

Str8stroke said:


> SureFire Backup LegoTurbo



Wow poop! Nice & Deadly...


----------



## Dingle1911

flashlight nut said:


> Not really an original lego but it's what's inside that makes this unique. Just got the L1 body back from Barry at Precision Works. I had damaged the driver trying to take it out of the body (another story) so I sent the L1 to Barry to have it bored out for 18mm. Now I can run primaries or a variety of rechargeables with many head choices. Right now I am running a Malkoff M61 219 in a VME Head on 2 primaries in a Delrin sleeve. Also added the 2 way clip and attached a combat ring (rubber oring) to the lanyard ring. Everything fits perfectly. My hat off to Barry at Precision Woks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL][/IMG]



I know that your post was from November of last year, but how did you attached the rubber oring? Do you have any pictures of that side? Thanks


----------



## flashlight nut

[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## kmart356

previously...


----------



## recDNA

flashlight nut said:


> [/URL][/IMG]


I never saw one of those smaller L1 before


----------



## archimedes

recDNA said:


> I never saw one of those smaller L1 before


... Gen 6


----------



## tobrien

I have to say that this SF lego thread is _the best_ SF thread (imo)


----------



## kmart356

I'm a sucker for those E Series _Tears_.


----------



## Str8stroke

Nice Camo rig! I may duplicate that look. Lol. 

I concur with tobrien. Awesome thread here. The Legos options are endless.


----------



## FREI

kmart356 said:


>



What happened with this reflector?


----------



## kmart356

FREI said:


> What happened with this reflector?



That, my friend, is a recovery made when I messed up removing the bezel piece from the head. 
Once I finally got the bezel off, I came to realize that the reflector had been damaged. I removed all the remaining factory bezel finish, smoothed the surface and sprayed with a silver ceramic based paint. After curing in a homemade heat box, the glass was replaced and the polished bezel installed.

The result is very pleasing for me as it is now a floody beam with little hot spot. Not quite a mule as it does still throw using a KuKu 3-mode drop in. I use this little guy when walking the dogs so I see where they want to take me walking 

Good eye BTW


----------



## FREI

Ok, thanks. I´ll don´t try this


----------



## Tana

Three of my fav lego's:


----------



## Eric242

Three great legos Tana.... the U2 E-Series lego is really cool. I liked since I saw it the first time you posted that. Been looking for an U2 body ever since.

Eric


----------



## Tana

Eric242 said:


> Three great legos Tana.... the U2 E-Series lego is really cool. I liked since I saw it the first time you posted that. Been looking for an U2 body ever since.
> 
> Eric



Better look for complete good deal U2 then try to sell bezel/tailcap for whatever you can get... that's what I did for both of mines and I believe all guys who bought adapters to allow U2E2 conversion...

So... I call these:

U2E2
E1T
E1M (for MORTAR)


----------



## Eric242

Tana said:


> Better look for complete good deal U2.....


That´s what I´m after..... unfortunatelly I sold mine in a time where the price was rather low compared to what it fetches nowadays. I guess I´m not yet prepared to fork over what is needed and what other people are still buying for


----------



## ali31766

My lego, I bought it in Japan, I'm curious how much it worth in US 


DSC_0274


----------



## DellSuperman

ali31766 said:


> My lego, I bought it in Japan, I'm curious how much it worth in US
> 
> 
> DSC_0274


This looks like a M2, no?


----------



## ali31766

DellSuperman said:


> This looks like a M2, no?



Yes, It's M2 head and L5 digital lumamax body and tailcap


----------



## DellSuperman

ali31766 said:


> Yes, It's M2 head and L5 digital lumamax body and tailcap


Oh, i tot the whole flashlight host is a M2. Haha.. I have nv heard of L5 before, so sorry about my ignorance.


----------



## ali31766

DellSuperman said:


> Oh, i tot the whole flashlight host is a M2. Haha.. I have nv heard of L5 before, so sorry about my ignorance.



No problem guy, I have this lego because it looks like a Surefire C2


----------



## Tana




----------



## pk

_Some cute variations here. But remember, I had the ultimate SF Lego kit! _
_Most possible (and impossible) combinations were tried, either by me or my dedicated staff. Some even inspired new products (or cancelled ongoing R&D)._
_SORRY, I cannot answer individual questions about modularity, don’t have much free time these days!_


----------



## jamesmtl514

the man himself! [emoji144]


----------



## Tana

pk said:


> _Some cute variations here. But remember, I had the ultimate SF Lego kit! _
> _Most possible (and impossible) combinations were tried, either by me or my dedicated staff. Some even inspired new products (or cancelled ongoing R&D)._
> _SORRY, I cannot answer individual questions about modularity, don’t have much free time these days!_




:thumbsup:


----------



## RI Chevy

Where's the photos?


----------



## euroken

Does this count? Surefire, OR, Tana lego 

My new goto setup...


----------



## RI Chevy

Are you using an adapter to fit the WASP head?


----------



## euroken

It's actually using two adapters. One from OR to fit the Wasp to e-series threads and another adapter to turn U2 body to e series threads, made by Tana. Both adapters are brass with orings and they stay put together. Works great with 18650 (2800 ony so far) and 2x18350. Not sure of the Z59's ability to handle the current yet (I've only used bursts on high) but I may change it to a McClicky in the near future. 

The light has a solid feel to it and one of the best clips in my opinion. Cheers!


----------



## RI Chevy

Cool! Thanks.


----------



## ElectronGuru

euroken said:


> It's actually using two adapters. One from OR to fit the Wasp to e-series threads and another adapter to turn U2 body to e series threads, made by Tana. Both adapters are brass with orings and they stay put together. Works great with 18650 (2800 ony so far) and 2x18350. Not sure of the Z59's ability to handle the current yet (I've only used bursts on high) but I may change it to a McClicky in the near future.
> 
> The light has a solid feel to it and one of the best clips in my opinion. Cheers!



Very cleaver. Keep in mind, Z59's are not compatible with Z41 switch options.


----------



## jdboy

I just received my tailcap from Cryos today!


----------



## Str8stroke

PK, Thanks for stopping in! How cool.

jdboy, That is really gonna look cool in a few months! Now you just need to get you some illumination devices for that Cryos. Green works well with copper.


----------



## mckeand13

euroken said:


> Does this count? Surefire, OR, Tana lego
> 
> My new goto setup...



That is one sweet looking build!


----------



## kmart356

Here is a lego that was born this very day. The donor was an E2E- SG Satin Gray TripLED. Alas, idle minds + legomania took over and this little tyke was born.:naughty: 600 lumens in a small compact E1 package!

Front to back:

*Executive Elite - SG bezel w_TripLED - XPG2 R5 3C (5000K)
*
*E1e-BK body
*
*M I K modded tail cap w_McClicky switch*


----------



## FortyCaliber

kmart356 said:


> Here is a lego that was born this very day. The donor was an E2E- SG Satin Gray TripLED. Alas, idle minds + legomania took over and this little tyke was born.:naughty: 600 lumens in a small compact E1 package!
> 
> Front to back:
> 
> *Executive Elite - SG bezel w_TripLED - XPG2 R5 3C (5000K)
> *
> *E1e-BK body
> *
> *M I K modded tail cap w_McClicky switch*




Congratulations on the birth of your new Lego! He's stunning!


----------



## Str8stroke

BackUp 200 Lumen Vs. Vintage E2 Executive Tear Drop Tana Single Vital Gear Superleggeo


----------



## kmart356

:bow:_Vintage E2 Executive Tear Drop(s)_ RULE


----------



## Str8stroke

Yo Kmart356, I heard you like a Camo Lego.





Back that thing up!






I may have posted that firs pic before. But anyway... 
Oh yea, I resized the second one, but photobucket hasn't kicked in yet.


----------



## recDNA

Str8stroke said:


> Yo Kmart356, I heard you like a Camo Lego.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back that thing up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may have posted that firs pic before. But anyway...
> Oh yea, I resized the second one, but photobucket hasn't kicked in yet.


What's in that top picture? Gorgeous head whatever it is.


----------



## archimedes

Tain Corona ? ( and Thud? ) ....


----------



## Str8stroke

Yes arch is correct!


----------



## kmart356

Str8stroke said:


> Yo Kmart356, I heard you like a Camo Lego.
> .



You slay me with these enticements, sir!


----------



## m4a1usr

Always nice to keep these older threads alive and well. This guy here is a long time project that Eric inspired me to build. His and Milky's are good versions that just seem like they are cast in time.


----------



## archimedes

Amazing color match on the anodize ... I think the "olive/bronze" is my favorite among the many variation of SF HA Natural finish


----------



## Spade115

Im new to the Group and wanted to say page 3, post 61 is AWESOME!!!!


----------



## Eric242

m4a1usr said:


> Always nice to keep these older threads alive and well. This guy here is a long time project that Eric inspired me to build. His and Milky's are good versions that just seem like they are cast in time.


Nice  Are you using 2x CR123 with yours?


----------



## m4a1usr

How you doing Eric! You have inspired many a build of mine. Hope all is well. I'm using one of my custom M35 reflectors with a shock foam retainer ring attached. Takes standard P60 pills. Right now it's got an XML2 in 4500k and driven with a 105C. But I have another using an XML S6 in 3900k and a AK-101 so two primaries are better in that one. I'm now using a single 17670 with a spacer but sooner or later I'll have Barry bore it for 18650. Took me over a year just to find an Oveready extender with the right color match!


----------



## Spade115

I have got to ask what do you all do with the stock led/bulbs since you do heavy modified? 

I bought a surefire G2X Tac and its the 320 lumens if i want a replacement same lumens what would you all reccomend as a first mod? Would like to keep stock head on it?


----------



## derLichtschalter

X-series lights are not that easy to mod. I once did that to a 6PX Defender but I am not sure if I would do that again... http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...X-Pro-Thread&p=4394907&viewfull=1#post4394907


----------



## Spade115

derLichtschalter said:


> X-series lights are not that easy to mod. I once did that to a 6PX Defender but I am not sure if I would do that again... http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...X-Pro-Thread&p=4394907&viewfull=1#post4394907



That is...wow...yeah...o.0

I want to keep my G2X internals simple, I want to pick up at least 1 replacement stock LED from the new Single output 320 Lumen o.0


----------



## derLichtschalter

I would even consider it a heavy mod just to replace the LED board and/or driver board. Your best but probably not cheapest option would be to not only get a replacement LED but a complete replacement head if available.

Another option would be to get a G2L and upgrade it with some low-current aftermarket dropin. Malkoff Devices builds some nice modules.


----------



## Spade115

I didnt think the head came off the G2? Mine dosnt seem to budge. do I heat it up to loosen whatevers being used to keep it together?


----------



## cland72

Spade115 said:


> I didnt think the head came off the G2? Mine dosnt seem to budge. do I heat it up to loosen whatevers being used to keep it together?



You might want to start a new thread on this topic.


----------



## bykfixer

derLichtschalter said:


> I would even consider it a heavy mod just to replace the LED board and/or driver board. Your best but probably not cheapest option would be to not only get a replacement LED but a complete replacement head if available.
> 
> Another option would be to get a G2L and upgrade it with some low-current aftermarket dropin. Malkoff Devices builds some nice modules.



I found a used yellow incan for putting a black tactical head and a malkoff/macgizmo tail cap on.
Once it and the malkoff NL arrive...my first lego light.


----------



## Eric242

I already posted this one in Tana´s TripLED thread but it´s good here as well...... The best of three worlds in one little powerhouse: favourite modder (Tana) + favourite custom maker (McGizmo) + favourite production lights (Surefire). And look where the clip rests when the bezel is screwed tight, perfectly on one of the hex sides. It´s not like I´d throw away that light if it would not be that way :sick2: but these are the little things that make a cool light even a bit cooler.


----------



## archimedes

Eric242 said:


> I already posted this one in Tana´s TripLED thread but it´s good here as well...... The best of three worlds in one little powerhouse: favourite modder (Tana) + favourite custom maker (McGizmo) + favourite production lights (Surefire)....



Yes, I just recently tried two @Tana TripLED bezels on a McClickie Pak, a triple red XP-E and a triple Nichia 219 ... great combo, for sure :twothumbs


----------



## Spade115

Eric242 said:


> I already posted this one in Tana´s TripLED thread but it´s good here as well...... The best of three worlds in one little powerhouse: favourite modder (Tana) + favourite custom maker (McGizmo) + favourite production lights (Surefire). And look where the clip rests when the bezel is screwed tight, perfectly on one of the hex sides. It´s not like I´d throw away that light if it would not be that way :sick2: but these are the little things that make a cool light even a bit cooler.



I NEED this..... awesome


----------



## kmart356

Don't* cry* *a tear* for *me*


----------



## Eric242

You know, that teardrop bezel looks pretty cool on the E1B. I like it better than it´s original bezel :thumbsup: especially with the Z68 combined. Seeing how the Z68 and the teardrop bezel work together, I think a McTC would look really cool on the aleph body with the teardrop bezel. Cool legos!


----------



## kmart356

Thank you Eric. I like the E1B very much now with the "satin silver" teardrop. Notice the difference (below for B4 photo) some *acid washing* does to the factory -SG finish. It now looks much better with very close match


----------



## bykfixer

^^ my first Lego

A G2 incan gets a Malkoff/McGizmo blem cap and a 6P head. Wanted to see what it would look like.

I have a black G2 on the way that'll get the yellow head and the yellow twisty tail cap, along with a Malkoff M61WLL. (Or stay P60 outfitted)
The yellow light will have a Solarforce tac head and Sure Fire twisty switch (from the black G2) and an M61 WL.

The shown 6P got a Malkoff pocket clip to go with the Malkoff/McGizmo tail cap it has.


Edit: 
Decided on sticking with an all yellow G2 incan with a little bit of decorating, a simple lanyard trick and a Malkoff M61 WLL from my 6P that now has an M61 WL.





The black G2 incan got a Solar Force tac head, an Elzetta lanyard ring and an Olympus camera lanyard clone.




Right now it has a Malkoff M61 NL but since the head is now doubling as a heat sync I'm thinking a good ole 300+ lumen M61 N is in order.


----------



## Dioni

Sorry bad pics (cell phone)


----------



## LightJunk

M6 Mag Lego


----------



## Str8stroke

COOL Mag lego! Looks awesome.


----------



## bykfixer

LightJunk said:


> M6 Mag Lego



Lincoln logs n Legos!!!!
Nice!


----------



## flashlight chronic

My small collection of "E" lights.


----------



## FREI

L2 Head with XM-L2 U2 (no driver), E1 Body and Aleph 2-stage tailcap.


----------



## AndyF

FREI said:


> L2 Head with XM-L2 U2 (no driver), E1 Body and Aleph 2-stage tailcap.



I like this one!. Very nice lego.


----------



## Str8stroke

ewwww, some really nice Legos in 1174 & 1175! :twothumbs


----------



## Tana




----------



## FREI

@Tana, I think the upper part of the head is KL4, but what is the lower part? And which body is this?

Edit, is it possible the lower part and the body is one part???


----------



## Tana

FREI said:


> @Tana, I think the upper part of the head is KL4, but what is the lower part? And which body is this?
> 
> Edit, is it possible the lower part and the body is one part???



You're right, it is a single part... that's basically what's on one side of legoing LM2 and KL4... you get that lego and on the other end you can have this head (ignore LM1 on it, it's the same part as LM2 upper shell):


----------



## FREI

Cool light:twothumbs


----------



## Tana




----------



## Zemapeli

qarawol said:


> Just one or two that I have...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Njoy...



What light/accessories is the light that is in the lower right corner? What are the specs? Nice collection.


----------



## Monocrom

Tana said:


>



LOL

Where do you put the battery?


----------



## Tana

Monocrom said:


> LOL
> 
> Where do you put the battery?



EDIT: IN MY POCKET !!! Hahaha...


----------



## Str8stroke

Tana, lolz. Its a LMCR2!!


----------



## Tana

Str8stroke said:


> Tana, lolz. Its a LMCR2!!



Haha... well, I'm hoping to stuff 16340 and MAYBE even 18350 in there... sure will be fun... TripLED of course, light engine will have to be as shallow as possible...


----------



## Str8stroke

I call dibs on it if you get it working and sell it!


----------



## bykfixer

Tana said:


>



^^ this one runs off mind control? 

Top 10 must have for spoon benders.


----------



## write2dgray

I'm pretty sure somebody here needs this (not my auction):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-Surefi...-cag-/351603066341?rmvSB=true&category=0&rd=1

*RARE Surefire Aluminum Sign 21"
*


----------



## write2dgray

Here's a line-up of mostly 18350 e-series compatible legos. All of the Surefire are bored for 18350, there is one light that takes 15266 and three 16340s in there - see if you can guess .





_Note: The all copper Sinner (4th from left) and Mac (3rd from right) do not lego with the rest and some pieces of course fit together better than others or may require modification(s) ._


----------



## Hiro Protagonist




----------



## Mr.Freeze

Z2X with x to m Adapter and mini Turbohead from Lumensfactory:






D36 XPL-HI U4 inside :rock:
2.8 - 6 Volt, 2 Mode low/high


----------



## flashlight chronic

Mr.Freeze said:


> Z2X with x to m Adapter and mini Turbohead from Lumensfactory:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D36 XPL-HI U4 inside :rock:
> 2.8 - 6 Volt, 2 Mode low/high


Very nice. Where did u get the D36 drop-in from?


----------



## Mr.Freeze

thank you, sir!


take a look at customlites.com


----------



## flashlight chronic

Ah yes, nailbender's work. Thanks!


----------



## Dthoreson81

Here's my first.


----------



## Dthoreson81

This one throws a bit. Anyone know someone who would bore out the front section for 18mm cells? I'd love to see this thing using 3x18650 cells...... 📣


----------



## Str8stroke

PrecisionWorks here. Look under Custom Modified section in the forum.


----------



## BitGeek

I love this thread! It will indeed help me spend much more money on lights!


----------



## Dthoreson81

BitGeek said:


> I love this thread! It will indeed help me spend much more money on lights!



It got the ball rolling for me that's for sure


----------



## Offgridled

So much you can do with them.



image hosting gif


----------



## solloron1

Dthoreson81 said:


> This one throws a bit. Anyone know someone who would bore out the front section for 18mm cells? I'd love to see this thing using 3x18650 cells...... 📣



What are all the parts to this lego?


----------



## Dthoreson81

Starting from the bottom up: 

Malkoff MDM4 M91T

Surefire M961 front end (not sure what the designation is)

Solarforce l2t 1xcr123 extender

TnC "detonator" extender

Surefire sw02 tailcap


----------



## Genna

Dthoreson81 said:


> Surefire M961 front end (not sure what the designation is)



Surefire LU10 (collar)


----------



## Genna

A few e-series Lego


----------



## Dthoreson81

Genna said:


> Surefire LU10 (collar)



That sounds right.


----------



## Genna

Tana Triple/Aleph3, FiveMega 18650 body and Surefire tailcap/10+Amp switch


----------



## BitGeek

My first lego...e1E head with GG&G crenulated bezel attachment, fivemega e-head c-tail body, and surefire z58.


----------



## xdayv

if looks could kill? ^^


----------



## BitGeek

xdayv said:


> if looks could kill? ^^


Lol...Is it too ominous, just fugly, or both? I appreciate your feedback!


----------



## ven




----------



## Monocrom

BitGeek said:


> My first lego...e1E head with GG&G crenulated bezel attachment, fivemega e-head c-tail body, and surefire z58.



I've got a stock SF 9P with a GG&G T.I.D. on it. Absolutely excellent. Fortunately, I got mine before the company severely fell off in terms of customer service. I think they're in financial trouble now. Could explain why customer service has gotten so bad.


----------



## BitGeek

Monocrom said:


> I've got a stock SF 9P with a GG&G T.I.D. on it. Absolutely excellent. Fortunately, I got mine before the company severely fell off in terms of customer service. I think they're in financial trouble now. Could explain why customer service has gotten so bad.


Yes, I think their TID was one of their best products. They never could get a strong hold on their AR products and creating customer demand. I haven't looked at their offerings in years, but doesn't surprise me that they may be struggling.


----------



## ven




----------



## AndyF

@Ven, is the trit vial on the sharp edge recessed enough to protect it?. While it looks great it looks like it would be easy to damage it. Thanks.


----------



## ven

The corners have been milled , so it is not fully recessed(almost flush though) as its a tricky bit of work. iirc there are a handful done , due to the tricky time consuming work. Not for beater use basically.........


----------



## BitGeek

ven said:


> The corners have been milled , so it is not fully recessed(almost flush though) as its a tricky bit of work. iirc there are a handful done , due to the tricky time consuming work. Not for beater use basically.........


Love that light! Very nice.


----------



## ven

Thank you BitGeek


----------



## kmart356

This is the workshop light. Aleph 17500 + E1 head/tail with flood reflector. Two speed XP-G kuku drop in and grip enhancement O-rings.


----------



## Offgridled

A few Legos 



image url uploadcertificity.com


----------



## BitGeek

Offgridled said:


> A few Legos
> 
> 
> 
> image url uploadcertificity.com


That is a glorious sight!


----------



## ven

:rock:


----------



## Offgridled

BitGeek said:


> That is a glorious sight!


Thank you Bit...
Ven helped in creating my admiration for legos.. 


ven said:


> :rock:


----------



## Mattj96

Thought this was a good place for this... Brand new solarforce p1d and l2p switches


----------



## kelmo

500 lumen E2DL head on a AZ2 combat light tube. Works just like a L2/LX2. Soft push for low (15 lumens), all the way for high. The ideal self defense light when sweeping your house for uninvited guests!

kelmo


----------



## Mudrock12

This thread has me thinking... i have an extra m951, that i would love to make a handheld out of... what parts can i use, and what exactly do i need other than a new malkoff and some sort of tube with no mounts on it? Does anyone make a usable replacement body?


----------



## Rat

My favourite lego tailcap the Gamp tail cap.






:thumbsup:


----------



## Mudrock12

Wow, I just installed Photobucket hotlink fix extension for Chrome, and it sure made this thread more interesting to look at! I can see all the pictures now!


----------



## foxtrot824

A few legos

All TANA E series mods 











A few P series











M series






A little bit of everything


----------



## Eric242

Nicce! What clip is that on the Aleph body with RPM tailcap?


----------



## euroken

Love the legos...

M61 running on 2xAA


----------



## foxtrot824

I believe it was a Ti clip from wvaltakis2, picked it up a long time ago. 



Eric242 said:


> Nicce! What clip is that on the Aleph body with RPM tailcap?


----------



## Eric242

Ok, unobtanium basicaly.... thank you nonetheless.

Eric


----------



## Tribull

I’m running a KX1 head on a Malkoff 2XAA body.


----------



## Greenbean

This thread needs to be updated badly!

SW02 / LeeF raw 2X18650 / KX9T-B

Z48 HA / LeeF HA 2X18500 C to C / LF C to M adapter / KX4

Malkoff MDC / E2D body / McClicky w/GITD boot

E1B backup MV / E2L body

All work and function beautifully, esp the Incan goodness there. The dual output of the new Surefire MaxVision heads is appreciated in a close quarters area. It’s a real flood head with a snow white tint and the secondary low is a great touch. 

I have a single output MV head on a G2Z too but need to work on getting it off of the body to see if it’ll attach to something else.


----------



## PJ

Left to right:
Surefire KT2 OD head, black 9P body,A21 extender with the 9P tailcap running an N62 500 lumen bulb on 4 123 Surefire batteries.
Malkoff Bodyguard head on an E2L-AA body with Energizer lithium primaries
E2e bezel, MN02 25 lumen bulb,Aleph 2x123 body, 2 Duracell primaries with a Z57 clickie tailcap. ( Where did that Z52 go?)


----------



## euroken

Oveready E optic head running on E2D body and 16650.


----------



## akula88

seattlite said:


> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?170804-Surefire-Lego&p=3717444&viewfull=1#post3717444


^^ do these set-up really functionally worked?

I don't have an AZ2 or A2, but I have an L1 and LX2 -- somebody had posted that AZ2 tailcaps are the same with the L1 and LX2.

I tested my L1 with Z41 and tailcap from my U2... they DO NOT FIT.


----------



## id30209

akula88 said:


> ^^ do these set-up really functionally worked?
> 
> I don't have an AZ2 or A2, but I have an L1 and LX2 -- somebody had posted that AZ2 tailcaps are the same with the L1 and LX2.
> 
> I tested my L1 with Z41 and tailcap from my U2... they DO NOT FIT.


Z62 are the tailcaps on AZ2, A2, A2L, L1, L2 and Kroma. Tailcaps Z41 fit only 6P, C, M, U2...



Sent from Tapatalk


----------



## akula88

Thanks, G. for the clarification.

I always thought that Kroma and U2 had the same body.... thus the tailcap angle.

The 2010-released model nomenclatures still confuses me until now


----------



## akula88

id30209 said:


> Z62 are the tailcaps on AZ2, A2, A2L, L1, L2 and Kroma. Tailcaps Z41 fit only 6P, C, M, U2...
> 
> Sent from Tapatalk



Hi G, I found the post /thread which created my initial confusion between AZ2 and 6P.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...nd-beamshots&p=3533835&viewfull=1#post3533835


SuperTrouper said:


> I tested my AZ2 tailcap with my 6P with a Malkoff M61W in this evening.
> 
> Not only did it fit the 6P but it also seemed to give the M61W two stages of output. I guess it's a resistored tailcap!


----------



## id30209

That’s odd...


----------



## 5S8Zh5

6P and XENO TW02 diffuser.


----------



## ven




----------



## akula88

This thread really cheered me up over an otherwise disappointing day.

So -- also got me going to do these 16340s for lego photo-ops.


----------



## ven

Very cool akula


----------



## akula88

Thanks, Ven. 

Makes me think how would an E1e body looks with a Cryo M2 head. :naughty:


----------



## id30209

You guys have good taste. 
But the one that got my full attention is that E1 body with LX2 head and Aleph tailcap.
M...m...m


Sent from Tapatalk


----------

