# DIY Maglite c/d led quads @ 500+ lumens with Cree XRE and SSC P4 leds: lotsa pics



## 3rd_shift (Aug 5, 2007)

I finally got this one done.
Now wouldn't it be nice to have a bright and white flashlight as bright as a 60 watt housebulb that runs good on regular unleaded batteries? :wow:

The technology is here at last to put one together thanks to Cree and Seoul Semiconductor. 

So let's get some tools out and have some fun.

Here we have a 2C and a big 6D.






You may use any Size maglite as long as the power source is around 7.5 - 9 volts as these flashlights will have.
For example, a 2D with 2 lithium ion batteries, or 6AA's in it will also work. 
Or a 6c with regular c cell batteries should also be just fine.
Both of these will have thier Led stars series parallel wired for this one.

You may also go for an all parallel setup using a 3C, or 3D light instead based on this pictorial modding adventure I did.

Here is a video showing the disassembly of the two lights. 
Broadband internet connection is recommended, and the video will automatically play as soon as you click the link.
If it won't play, grab the newest version of flash player with a google search.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v313/3rd_shift/?action=view&current=SANY0003.MP4.flv
Here is another video showing disassembly of an older pre 2001 C cell Maglite.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v313/3rd_shift/?action=view&current=SANY0088.MP4.flv

Here are the bulb holder guts removed with a 5/64rths allen wrench.





Make the bulb assemblies look something like this.





The head needs to be secured so that it won't turn anymore and tear up the wiring inside.  :mecry:
Drill an 1/8 hole about a quarter to a half inch in like this and put a metal plug in there that sits flush,
or slightly below the top of the hole once inside.
This will jam the threads and stop the head from turning anymore. 




A 2D was used to demonstrate this step, but this works with all C/D Maglites that I know of.
Here is another picture with the head removed again.





*This next segment is for the D cell*

For the D cell, install 4 inch long wires, 2 red (+) and one black (-).
The resistor in the picture is a 5 watt rated 1 ohm.





Re-install the wired switch assembly like this.





Here is a video showing how the resistor was secured.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v313/3rd_shift/?action=view&current=SANY0023.flv

Put in a D cell starsink (5mm thick) for so17 minireflectors, but use khatoid 17mm's instead with thier bottoms widened out for Cree XRE leds.

Khatoid reflectors bottoms can be widened out with a small, narrow knife, or one of the blades of a small pair of sharp scissors as I did.
Just make sure it is bullseye centered over the led after it's bottom is big enough to fit.
Try to keep fingerprints and any sharp objects clear of the insides of the reflectors.


Put thermal grease under the heatsink before putting it in.
Here is a video of that part of the assembly.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v313/3rd_shift/?action=view&current=SANY0026.flv

Q4 strength in this case at over 100 lumens at 350 milliamps.
File off thier sharpest edges until they all fit inside like this.






There is a choice here on whether to use thermal grease, or arctic alumina adhesive.
I used thermal grease under the Cree XRE stars in this case, and then wired them up just like so.
The (-) sides of the stars are nearest the wire inlet hole in the heatsink.





Load in some batteries with the tailcap off and try it out with a dc ampmeter and cross your fingers. :duck:





830 milliamps on some old batteries is quite nice and comfy as the leds are only seeing about 415 milliamps each.
With fresh batteries, this light tops out at 1.1 amps which is still not driving them too hard. More than 1.5 amps is hitting them kinda hard. 
We're aiming for relliability and runtime for this one this time around. 

Now let's make a mess to hold those reflectors still with.




I used black silicone gasket maker for this.
One may use whatever desired to keep the reflectors planted and centered with. 
Give that some time to cure.

Here is a picture of the completed business end. 
A little of that black stuff did ooze in, but is still out of reach of the relatively narrow beam angle of the leds. 





Here it is embarrassing a 60 watt vanity bulb. :laughing:





*Now to tackle the C cell*

Find and cut some 5/8ths heater hose from the local auto parts store and cut it to 4.5-5 inches in length, then slit it down one side.




3 cr123 batteries, or 2 18500 lithium ion batteries and charger from member AW in the dealers corner at cpf marketplace will also do.

Now cut and reshape the tailspring about a quarter inch shorter so it won't squash the batteries quite so hard.





File, or lightly grind off the sharpest edges off of some SSC P4 led stars.
An adjustable heatsink from member download is used this time.
Mount and glue the stars with thier (-) closest to the center hole with arctic alumina.
Let that cure.
Then file, or shave off any overhanging edges from the stars so that the heatsink can drop right in.





We need to find out what height to adjust the heatsink to.
Put some heatsink grease into it's threads to improve thermal contact between the 2 pieces of the heatsink.
Here is a video of it being adjusted in another, but older pre-2001 2c Maglite.
Even I'm still a bit new to this. 
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v313/3rd_shift/?action=view&current=SANY0089.MP4.flv

Loosely assemble everything like this and adjust the heatsink height until everything fits ok.
Be careful not to damage or destroy the fragile gelatin domes from doing this.
Some older obsolete luxeon1 stars can be used instead for this step if preferred.





Once that's done and everything fits good in the Maglite head, we need to stop the heatsink from turning any more. 
I used blobs of silicone gasket maker for this and let it cure.





Now apply plenty of heatsink grease at the bottom of the Maglite head, it's threads and the sides inside for best possible thermal contact and conductivity from the heatsink's bottom and top pieces.





Perfect. There is heatsink grease there to catch and transfer heat from the top piece of the 2 piece adjustable heatsink assembly. 





Reinstall the wired switch assembly (see the D cell assembly for more on this) with your 5/64ths allen wrench and arctic alumina a 2 watt rated 1.5 ohm resistor just like so.
The two 4-5 inch long red (+) wires are coming from it.
It's other end is soldered to the center tab contact of the switch assembly.





Too much heatsink grease just isn't enough is it? :laughing:





Here is a blurry photo of the C cell's wiring. :huh2:
See the D cell assembly for a clearer picture of the same series parallel wiring, my bad. 





Load in some batteries and try it out with a dc ampmeter.
This one pulls about 1.2 amps from 2 lithium ion 18500 batteries.
This is a healthy power draw for this light with these leds at 600 milliamps per led. 
This light is close to 600 lumens and can still be left on for quite a while without getting too hot. :twothumbs

This next step is a good idea to keep those metal 17mm reflectors from sliding around and scraping off the soft gel domes from the SSC P4 leds. :green:
Regular 2 part epoxy was used in this case.






Apply it to the tops of the emitter flanges without it getting onto the domes themselves.
Then apply it to the bottoms of the reflectors and set them down on top of the led shoulders and "bullseye" center them as you do.
Let it cure hard 1st with the flashlight standing straight up.
Do not install the bezel yet.
If some excess runs down onto the stars, that is actually good.
We want that to happen in this case for a good adhesive grip to hold the reflectors still and centered when the bezel is put back on later. 





Beamshots! :naughty:

Here it is also embarrassing a 60 watt vanity bulb. 





On the right is the 6D 4x Cree XRE at 9 volts x 1.1 amps.
Center is a 2c MiniMonsterQuad with 4 WWOT Luxeon5 leds at 7.5 volts x 3.5 amps.
Left is the 2c 4X USWOH SSC P4 led at 7.5 volts X 1.2 amps. 





Same lights versus a Thor 15 million candlepower rated cordless gelcell spotlight. 





Happy modding! :thumbsup:


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## Lighthouse one (Aug 5, 2007)

*Re: Maglite c/d led quad modding with Cree XRE and SSC P4 leds: lotsa pics*

Thanks for the good pictorial...I've been wanting to make a 3 or 4 cell Seoul- with 2 18650 cells in a 3 c cell mag. I didn't understand what to do with the switch to make it work. Usually no one says where to get various parts..but all I guess I need is the heatsink from Download (?) and reflectors from (?). What are and where do the reflectors come from? Everything is easy once you do it, but it sure is confusing first time around.


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## 3rd_shift (Aug 6, 2007)

Download has the reflectors too.
Otherwise member Photonfanatic in the cpf marketplace dealers corner has 17mm reflectors for the SSC P4's and they can also be used with the Cree XRE's once thier bottoms are widened out with a small knife, or even a good scissor blade works.
I'll update this thread with a few more pictures and tips as time goes on.
Yes, by all means, if there are any questions, let me know and I'll be happy to try to clarify things more.
I have some spare parts to take pictures of if I need to back track any in this DIY guide.


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## Essexman (Aug 6, 2007)

Thanks 3rd shift. Nice job (nearly as good as my own mag tutorial )

Joking aside, it was your first tutorials (Mag with a cree or K2) that gave me the idea to write my own. 

I'm going to have to save up and make a tri or quad mag soon, there's just too many ways to make these, I can't decide what to do.
Cheers again.


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## nanotech17 (Aug 6, 2007)

thanks 3rd shift.
nice really nice piece of work.
where can i get that 5 watt rated 1 ohm resistor?


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## 3rd_shift (Aug 7, 2007)

Fry's Electronics had it and the 2 watt unit as well.

The reason I arctic alumina glued the resistor to the aluminum flashlight body was because I lost a ballast resistor to overheating in my 1974 Dodge Dart.
When that $3 part fried, the car would not start until I installed another one. 

Here is what a google search turned up on these resistors after I finally entered the right keywords. 
http://www.google.com/search?client...cial&channel=s&hl=en&q=NTE&btnG=Google+Search


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## 3rd_shift (Aug 7, 2007)

Essexman said:


> Thanks 3rd shift. Nice job (nearly as good as my own mag tutorial )
> 
> Joking aside, it was your first tutorials (Mag with a cree or K2) that gave me the idea to write my own.
> 
> ...


The triple led versions are more forgiving and easier to drop in.
Plus these can be driven in series with every led getting the same exact current with a simple badboy, or Fatman type of boost converter installed. 
There is much more coming this weekend as I get time for more photos and another video, or two to make this look even easier and more fun.
I'll simply update the 1st post with the updates. 

Cheers.


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## LuxLuthor (Aug 7, 2007)

With this wonderful mod display, I'm starting to see the day when I might begin thinking about doing some LED mods. Still addicted to incands, but this post moved me down the field a lot. Thanks!


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## nanotech17 (Aug 7, 2007)

3rd_shift said:


> Fry's Electronics had it and the 2 watt unit as well.
> 
> The reason I arctic alumina glued the resistor to the aluminum flashlight body was because I lost a ballast resistor to overheating in my 1974 Dodge Dart.
> When that $3 part fried, the car would not start until I installed another one.
> ...



Thx 3rd_shift,
when i look at the parts number,
you must have used the silicone
coated wirewound resistor then.
and also do you think 19mm fraen reflector would fit?
what about these resistor is it the same?
http://cgi.ebay.com/5-Watt-Power-Re...oryZ4660QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem


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## FredM (Aug 8, 2007)

Could you post a few places where I could aquire these items such as the drivers (that you mentioned but did not use) the reflectors, and heatsinks?

I think I can figure the rest out.


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## 3rd_shift (Aug 9, 2007)

nanotech17 said:


> Thx 3rd_shift,
> when i look at the parts number,
> you must have used the silicone
> coated wirewound resistor then.
> ...



These resistors in the link are .1 ohm instead of 1.0 ohm.



> From FredM:
> Could you post a few places where I could aquire these items such as the drivers (that you mentioned but did not use) the reflectors, and heatsinks?
> 
> I think I can figure the rest out.



Will do. 
I should have that mostly done this Saturday afternoon.
I'll be spending an hour, or two polishing up post #1.
Any questions, or suggestions will be welcomed before I sit down then and make it into an even better read.


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## Aircraft800 (Aug 10, 2007)

Thanks 3rd_shift for the great tutorial,

I saw your MiniMonsterQuad at the DFW meet, and it sparked my LED interest. I never thought a LED could throw such a nice white blanket of light, I only own one LED for close-up things, a Coast LED Lenser V6

Once I gather some funds, I will have to build one of these using your tutorial, and hopefully have it in time for the 2007 DFW meet.

Great Job!


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## my-smokepole (Aug 10, 2007)

Need some Ideas tryed to remove the gut of my 4c mag as discribed. but had no luck on the remove part. Does the ellan sreew come out or just lossen up. 
Thanks 
My-smokepole


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## 3rd_shift (Aug 10, 2007)

The allen screw inside only needs to loosen up counterclockwise, and then the bulb assembly can easily drop right out the bottom of the light.

If your light is older and lacks the "C" in front of the serial number, it's an older pre-2001 unit who's assembly comes out the front.
There is a retainer ring in there on top that needs to be taken out before the bulb assembly can come out the front of the light.

Both lights featured in this are newer than 2001. 

Update:
The 2c actually pulls about 1.4 amps with 3 disposable, primary cr123 batteries.


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## download (Aug 11, 2007)

Wonderful pictorial! :twothumbs
Here is the picture from head side, see the different from old & new C size.


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## 3rd_shift (Aug 11, 2007)

Here is a disassembly video of one I just did and uploaded. 

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v313/3rd_shift/?action=view&current=SANY0088.MP4.flv
Also updated the 1st post in this thread with this video and another, plus a couple more pics for the C cell.


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## my-smokepole (Aug 12, 2007)

Iguess that is a good reason for it not to come out thanks I do have the pre 2001 Thanks 
my-smokepole


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## 3rd_shift (Aug 23, 2007)

The 6D is sold.
I'm keeping the 2c for my own use on the road.

If there are any questions on this modding adventure, fire away.


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## 3rd_shift (Aug 25, 2007)

Bumped back to the top for an important update.
The 6D is back in my hands for repair after it's owner handed it to someone else and came back teary eyed to him and said; "I broke your flashlight!" 
After I looked at it, I found the head was turned and it had torn up the wiring inside.
Now the light does not function.

So, I added this to post #1
The head needs to be secured so that it won't turn anymore and tear up the wiring inside.  :mecry:
Drill an 1/8 hole about a quarter to a half inch in like this and put a metal plug in there that sits flush,
or slightly below the top of the hole once inside.
This will jam the threads and stop the head from turning anymore. 




A 2D was used to demonstrate this step, but this works with all C/D Maglites that I know of.
Here is another picture with the head removed again. 





Now I'm off to fix the 6D and do the same step to it.

Edit: done 

This all just came right out without a fight.





Here's the inside of the light.





Made an 1/8 inch diameter plug out of a nail.





Here it is installed after drilling a hole for it.





Fixed it. 
IT'S ALIVE AGAIN!!!! :wow: 
Here it is versus 3 60 watt equivalent 13 watt cfls.
3 mediocre fixtures versus one good handheld light evened things up a bit.


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## nanotech17 (Aug 26, 2007)

just sent me one of those resistor will you


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## Cerberus (Aug 28, 2007)

The six D in for repairs was mine:naughty: The six D is a beast!:thumbsup:

Also, I can't recommend dealing with 3rd_shift enough, great work and way accommodating, both times the light was delivered to me at work. I am lucky enough to be somewhat near to him and have been able to get the added personal delivery. Great guy.

Can't wait for the forthcoming CPF get together. It should be fun

These things BRIGHT!

Cerberus


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## 3rd_shift (Aug 30, 2007)

The upcoming get together is now all set.
Look in the trade shows and get togethers part of the forum below for more info. 

Also, here is the same pic heavy topic as this one at another forum I go to with that membership's reaction to it. 

http://flashlight-forums.com/index.php/topic,5119.0.html


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## Aircraft800 (Aug 30, 2007)

Great 3rd_shift!

I hope you bring a few for us to play with.

I added a link in my sig line, maybe everyone else interested could to. I hope it's huge.


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## 3rd_shift (Sep 16, 2007)

Ahh, I forgot this one.
Those Khatoid reflectors bottoms can be widened out with a small, narrow knife, or one of the blades of a small pair of sharp scissors as I did.
Updated 1st post.


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## Ganp (Sep 18, 2007)

Thanks for a great step by step guide.:thumbsup:

I still haven't got round to a [email protected] mod, but when I do this info, and your other how-to posts, will be invaluable.


Colin.


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## jasonck08 (Sep 18, 2007)

How much did it cost you to make this?


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## 3rd_shift (Sep 18, 2007)

jasonck08 said:


> How much did it cost you to make this?


I honestly lost track,
but I think they each set me back around $100 a piece using premium grade parts. :thinking:
The 6D is long gone, the 2c is the one that goes with me on the road on my daily 600 mile round trip deliveries.


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## sparkie (Oct 27, 2007)

G'day.
long time snooper first time poster.
The output of that 6D Maglite seems to be very powerfull.I am wondering if it would be possible to set up something like it for say a set of car spotlights. 
I am interested to know if something like a aluminium block with X amounts of 3/5W luxeon stars could be set up for a 4WD spot lights? Would it be possible? I dont need to see miles ahead but would like to have a 250/300m field covered so I can see the kangaroos and other nasties coming 

I have looked around at the other parts of the forum and have found a post of interest
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/117661

Basically I would like to ask your opinion about the brightness and throw distance of these led's. do you think with enough led's and proper heatsinking could I get enough light for a decent spot light?
I realise you have sold your 6D Maglite but how far did that throw?
TIA Sparkie


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## 3rd_shift (Oct 28, 2007)

It wasn't my best thrower for distances like that.
However, with 20-27 millimeter reflectors, the throw will improve quite a bit.
For maximum throw, several Maglite C/D cell flashlight reflectors can throw quite some distance.
There are several Maglite modders here with a stash of leftover 52mm Maglite relflectors that should blind any baddies from the distances that you need.
The hard part will be cropping off thier focusssing cams and fitting them into some kind of a housing with an aluminum heatsink backing to hold everything together with.
Some metal working skills may be needed to pull something like that off.

If I were you, I would stay with Star type leds for ease of installation and use either Seoul P4 leds, or Cree XRE leds as these are very, very efficient.
The ones I used are about as efficient as car high intensity discharge lamps are, but in a smaller cordless package at nearly 100 lumens per watt with no fussy ballasts to worry about. :wow:


Hey folks, you may substitute that 1.5 ohm resistor in the 2c for a 1.0 ohm for more wow factor.
It should be ok. 
The 2c is the one that has been going with me on the road and it is still just kickin' rump! :rock:


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## snipinglight (Nov 2, 2007)

3rd_shift said:


> It wasn't my best thrower for distances like that.
> However, with 20-27 millimeter reflectors, the throw will improve quite a bit.
> For maximum throw, several Maglite C/D cell flashlight reflectors can throw quite some distance.
> There are several Maglite modders here with a stash of leftover 52mm Maglite relflectors that should blind any baddies from the distances that you need.
> ...


 
The Maglite stock reflector is sure a thrower, I did mine
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=172476


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## beetleguise (Nov 2, 2007)

I like the pin keeping the head from roataing idea. I am picking up my download multisink from the post office tomorrow and I will definitely steal this idea! My mod will be shark driven, so as a led newb, I am looking for another great tutorial like this! Very nice tutorial third shift! I wish there was someone out there who could and would put one out like this for the shark/remora board multi led mods. I am scared to ruin my extremely expensive mod. I guess I just planned on going all out and getting it out of my system! Nothing like jumping before you look.


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## Monkeyboab (Feb 3, 2008)

Nice mods, would the 6D have worked with a 1 ohm 3w or 10w resistor?

Thanks Rob


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## 3rd_shift (Feb 5, 2008)

Monkeyboab said:


> Nice mods, would the 6D have worked with a 1 ohm 3w or 10w resistor?
> 
> Thanks Rob


I think it would have worked with either one in the 1-1.5 ohm size.
5 watt rated is ideal, but something as small as a 2 watt rated has worked fine in all my luxeon5 2c builds too.
Those used the same amount of power as this 500+ lumen monster does.


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## Monkeyboab (Feb 9, 2008)

Thanks 3rd Shift got some 1 Ohm 3 watt resistors same type as your 5watt, I can get them in 3 watt, 7 watt, and 10watt just wasnt sure which one was best to use.

Rob


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## rizky_p (Feb 9, 2008)

Hi there nice mod. 

Why did you stop at 4 Crees? why not go further with 5 it looks like that you still have more room for more reflectors..

I did mine:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/186978

but with 5 Cree and 5 watt resistor(like you) with 15 Sanyo 2700 AA and Bored-out Mag4D. But now i have moved it to 3D mag body and Maxflex Driver..

1 question though, how could you run 4 LEDs+resistor from 9v source? is it SSC LEDs?
I have to go for 15 AA because of 5 LEDs i am using are Cree..

mine look like this...















Entire room lights up source only from the MagCree.

thanks.


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## Jarl (Feb 10, 2008)

his setup is 2s2p, meaning he can run them on a lower voltage than 4 in series.


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## divelights (Feb 1, 2009)

Sorry for the question, but I am a complete newbie!! Who/what is is Download. I would like to get the heat sink you show and mount Cree MC-Es to it.

Thanks for any help you can give.


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## Icarus (Feb 1, 2009)

divelights said:


> Sorry for the question, but I am a complete newbie!! Who/what is is Download. I would like to get the heat sink you show and mount Cree MC-Es to it.
> 
> Thanks for any help you can give.


 
:welcome:

*download* is a member of this forum. He is offering various Maglite related parts.
Here's the link to his thread for the Multi-Sink.


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