# *new* Fenix PD22



## kj2 (Mar 5, 2012)

• Cree XP-G (R5) LED with a lifespan of 50,000 hours
• Uses one 3V CR123A battery 
• 89mm (Length) x 21.5mm (Diameter)
• 44-gram weight (excluding battery)
• Digitally regulated output - maintains constant brightness
• Reverse polarity protection, to protect from improper battery installation
• Anti-roll, slip-resistant body design
• Tactical tail cap switch with momentary-on function, press once for strobe
• Side mode switch button in the front, press once for brightness level selection
• Made of durable aircraft-grade aluminum
• Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish
• Toughened ultra-clear glass lens with anti-reflective coating

To bad- that this one only can handle 3V cr123 and not (3.2V)CR123R batteries. Other flashlight brands, like Eagletac, do support CR123R batteries.
Question is; why Fenix not? use of non-chargeble batteries is very expensive.


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## kj2 (Mar 5, 2012)

Fenix just said to me on FaceBook; "PD22 the input voltage is 1.5V-3.3V, if the voltage in this range can be used."


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## roadkill1109 (Mar 5, 2012)

kj2 said:


> Fenix just said to me on FaceBook; "PD22 the input voltage is 1.5V-3.3V, if the voltage in this range can be used."





kj2 said:


> Fenix just said to me on FaceBook; "PD22 the input voltage is 1.5V-3.3V, if the voltage in this range can be used."



Problem is, a freshly charged RCR123 is 4.2volts. This light will go "POOF". Same with the LD12, cant take a 14500.


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## candle lamp (Mar 5, 2012)

Thanks for the posting. kj2!
Fenix adds a side button switch to the existing models including PD20. It's just a shame 3.7V RCR123A can't be used.


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## roadkill1109 (Mar 5, 2012)

the only purposes i see for this light is for people with deep pockets to keep buying primaries and to be used as a forever backup light with 10-year lifespan primaries only to be used in emergencies.


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## shane45_1911 (Mar 5, 2012)

Pass.


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## varmint (Mar 5, 2012)

I would have really thought of this light if it used the recharagables but not now although at $1 each there is no problem there but I would like to have the battery option available. Agree with Shane PASS.


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## pinetree89 (Mar 5, 2012)

roadkill1109 said:


> Problem is, a freshly charged RCR123 is 4.2volts.



I think he's alluding to LiFePO4 Lithium chemistry which tops out around 3.3v albeit with less capacity than the 4.2v LiCo chemistry.


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## Swedpat (Mar 5, 2012)

I am a bit doubtful here. I think side button switch mainly is justified with larger sized lights, and it makes the light more sensitive.


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## DisrupTer911 (Mar 5, 2012)

The sidesiwtch on the PD32 doesn't change anything when the light is off.
It's not easily hit either IMO when the light is on and I hate having to double, double with a pause, triple click the tail switch to get the mode I want lol

I think this would make a great emergency glovebox light.


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## HIDblue (Mar 5, 2012)

Seems like they made some nice improvements, but why not add RCR123 capability? Doesn't make any sense. I'll just keep my 'ol PD20.


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## DisrupTer911 (Mar 5, 2012)

I think a lot of it has to do with most people are interested in building up 1 more battery specific compatible assortment of batteries and lights.

running on standard primaries, CR123s can be found in any lowes or home depot and now every drugstore, pharmacy, and grocery store sells CR123 "Photo Lithiums" these days.


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## calipsoii (Mar 5, 2012)

This is so weird. "Side mode switch button". 

It has the same graphic that Fenix uses to illustrate their UI's on it, so it doesn't look like it doubles as a power button, but it used only to change modes.

So you have to hold the light in a cigar/overhand grip to activate the tail button, then switch to holding it thumb-forwards in your palm to change modes?


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## bfksc (Mar 5, 2012)

calipsoii said:


> This is so weird. "Side mode switch button".
> It has the same graphic that Fenix uses to illustrate their UI's on it, so it doesn't look like it doubles as a power button, but it used only to change modes.
> So you have to hold the light in a cigar/overhand grip to activate the tail button, then switch to holding it thumb-forwards in your palm to change modes?


Yup. That's why I'm not a fan of such designs, you have to change your hold on the light to change modes. I'm still waiting to find my perfect light:

High output 300+ lumens OTF in neutral white tint
Small form factor CR123x2 (RCR compatible or 17670 or 18650)
Black aluminum anodized finish
Tactical rear clicky to activate and change modes
3 output modes only low/med/high
Output levels spaced around 3-6, 30-60, 300+ (or variable levels that can be programmed within those ranges)
3 modes are low/med/high in that order of activation - resets to low after several seconds off
Fixed head - no twisty action - clicky changes modes
A "moonlight" output ~0.2-0.5 lumens would be nice but not essential - hidden with SOS, strobe, beacon but not essential to have those either
An antiroll feature of some kind, either squared head or pocket clip or similar
Reliable, I don't want a piece of junk that will fail within a month
I live in Canada, so it must be available here or can be shipped here at reasonable cost

Anyone know of a light that fits those parameters?
Picky I know, but that's the light I want.


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## HIDblue (Mar 5, 2012)

bfksc said:


> Yup. That's why I'm not a fan of such designs, you have to change your hold on the light to change modes. I'm still waiting to find my perfect light:
> 
> High output 300+ lumens OTF in neutral white tint
> Small form factor CR123x2 (RCR compatible or 17670 or 18650)
> ...



I saw in another thread that the Klarus XT11 and XT2C both utilize a two (2) switch mechanism at the tailcap. One forward clicky to activate the light with momentary on/off and another smaller button right next to it on the tailcap that changes the modes.


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## regulation (Mar 5, 2012)

calipsoii said:


> This is so weird. "Side mode switch button".
> 
> It has the same graphic that Fenix uses to illustrate their UI's on it, so it doesn't look like it doubles as a power button, but it used only to change modes.
> 
> So you have to hold the light in a cigar/overhand grip to activate the tail button, then switch to holding it thumb-forwards in your palm to change modes?



Just don't make conclusions so randomly. I have tried the LD12 a few days before, and it could be fully operated without changing the hold since its small size.

I can place my ohter fingers on the sidebutton to change the mode while my thumb on the tailswitch .

By the way, I don;t have two big hands, and the PD22 it;s much smaller. I can;t assure this would be also OK on it too.

Maybe *bfksc* you could still consider this one after someone review it.


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## roadkill1109 (Mar 5, 2012)

Swedpat said:


> I am a bit doubtful here. I think side button switch mainly is justified with larger sized lights, and it makes the light more sensitive.



+1 on this! Why are there so many lights coming out with side switches? this will be okay if the light was a T40CS or the SR90, yes to side switches, but for little lights? come on! plus im sure the light ships with an extra boot and not a side switch cover (which could be its primary cause of failure for its IPX8 rating from wear and tear using the mode switch)


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## roadkill1109 (Mar 5, 2012)

For lights with dual switch functionality, It's the Klarus line of lights which have the best application of these functions.

Side switches should be for large/long lights, not small EDC's. It's a bit of a fumble to locate and if you were wearing gloves, you might miss the mode switch most of all. 

Compared to the Klarus light which comes on in HIGH no matter what mode it was after it was turned off, is a better approach than a light which has a memory and a side switch that is not that easy to locate when wearing gear.

Just my two cents.


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## Chadder (Mar 5, 2012)

I love my ld10 and pd20 but I have always said I would love them more if they had monetary on. Even though these new lights have the momentary on I'm not so sure about the side switch. I like knowing before the light comes on if it will come on in low or turbo. That's easy now by checking the head of the light. With the side switch will I lose this ability? I don't want to turn the light on in high and cycle through or need high and it come on in low. I already have plenty of lights that do this.


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## regulation (Mar 5, 2012)

Chadder said:


> I love my ld10 and pd20 but I have always said I would love them more if they had monetary on. Even though these new lights have the momentary on I'm not so sure about the side switch. I like knowing before the light comes on if it will come on in low or turbo. That's easy now by checking the head of the light. With the side switch will I lose this ability? I don't want to turn the light on in high and cycle through or need high and it come on in low. I already have plenty of lights that do this.



This one has a memory function, and I think this could solve the old problems on the LD10 and PD20.
And it also means that it can;t be the high mode everytime you turn it on like the Klarus, so, this may cause a new problem: difficult to locate the side button when wearing gloves.
Actually, compared to the bigger flashlight, like the TK41, a small flashlight with sidebutton is not as bad as I first thought.
Anyway, you can;t satisfy everyone's need in a sole product.


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## roadkill1109 (Mar 5, 2012)

regulation said:


> Anyway, you can;t satisfy everyone's need in a sole product.



That's true, you should just choose the light which works for you.


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## bfksc (Mar 6, 2012)

regulation said:


> I can place my ohter fingers on the sidebutton to change the mode while my thumb on the tailswitch .
> Maybe *bfksc* you could still consider this one after someone review it.


Thanks for the suggestion, but unfortunately there are more specifics for my ideal light - neutral white tint, revert to low mode not high when off, etc. I already have several lights that I like, but none of them are my ideal light with the specs I mentioned above. I haven't found it yet...
:scowl:


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## pinetree89 (Apr 14, 2012)

So does anybody have one of these yet? Looks like they've been out for a bit now. 

If so what are your impressions? Also any photos?

Not sure but looking at the pics it looks like the tailcap and battery compartment are a single piece or in other words you can't remove the tail cap from the battery holder?


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## LightWalker (Apr 14, 2012)

Does this light use the same head as the LD12?


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## Labrador72 (Apr 14, 2012)

I've checked both the LD12 and PD22 user manuals and they don't say anything about voltage range. I think the only quick way to find out if they use the same head is to drop a mail to Fenix.


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## lightwait (Apr 14, 2012)

I was just researching. I have the LD12. I am considering adding the LD22 and/or PD22 to the collection. In comparing the lumen levels of each mode, I'm thinking all 3 have a different head. if they were the same head, I would expect at least medium and high would match up between the PD22 and LD12. I'm just guessing of course.

max, high, medium, low:

LD12: 115, 60, 27, 3

PD22: 190, 95 ,46, 8

LD22: 190, 92, 42, 3


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## Labrador72 (Apr 14, 2012)

lightwait said:


> I was just researching. I have the LD12. I am considering adding the LD22 and/or PD22 to the collection.


Unless size is critical, out of the PD22 and LD22, I'd personally go for the LD22: better runtimes and uses AA batteries like your LD12.
The PD32 looks like a good option though: works with both CR123s and 18650s!


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## pinetree89 (Apr 14, 2012)

LightWalker said:


> Does this light use the same head as the LD12?





lightwait said:


> I was just researching. I have the LD12. I am considering adding the LD22 and/or PD22 to the collection. In comparing the lumen levels of each mode, I'm thinking all 3 have a different head. if they were the same head, I would expect at least medium and high would match up between the PD22 and LD12. I'm just guessing of course.
> 
> max, high, medium, low:
> 
> ...



I suspect they all use the same head. The differences in the PD22 vs the LD22 probably comes from the fact that Fenix uses 2500mAH NiMH cells to test the LD22 which gives a starting voltage of around ~2.4 volts. The CR123A starts at 3.0v or even a little above that.


So nobody has a PD22 yet?


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## BullsEyeLantern (Apr 14, 2012)

You could always use the Tenergy rechargeable CR123 rated at 3 volts in this light if you are worried about the cost of regular primaries.


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## tatteredmidnight (Apr 14, 2012)

Tenergy Rechargable 123's have a higher initial voltage, closer to 3.5 volts i think.

The dual button setup is not my cup of tea. I like front switches when applied well, but having to operate 2 switches to use the light seems like unecessary complexity.



> Tenergy RCR123A 3.0V 750mAh Rechargeable LiFePO4 Li-Ion Batteries
> Working Voltage:3.2V and Peak Voltage: 3.6V


from the BatteryJunction description

-- Adam


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## lightwait (Apr 14, 2012)

tatteredmidnight said:


> Tenergy Rechargable 123's have a higher initial voltage, closer to 3.5 volts i think.
> 
> The dual button setup is not my cup of tea. I like front switches when applied well, but having to operate 2 switches to use the light seems like unecessary complexity.
> -- Adam



Yeh, 3.2v - 3.6v, I'm wondering if this could be a problem. Fenix can be very touchy about over voltage. I read 2 mentions of the LD22 losing low mode with fresh regular batteries. Maybe the PD22 is sensitive as well.

I did not care for the two buttons at first, but I have come to like it a lot. I use the light mainly for repair work and other projects. No critical use where I must know it that it will always come on high or low, so it has not been a problem to use 2 switches. I now like being able to bounce around through the levels without the light turning off or strobing and the memory is handy for frequent on/off work.


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## lightwait (Apr 14, 2012)

Labrador72 said:


> Unless size is critical, out of the PD22 and LD22, I'd personally go for the LD22: better runtimes and uses AA batteries like your LD12.
> The PD32 looks like a good option though: works with both CR123s and 18650s!


Normally the PD32 would be the perfect compromise, but I'm trying to get away from 2 cell cr123 lights and Li-ion. I love the extra brightness in the small size, but sometimes I feel uneasy about them when my family might use the lights. 

The LD22 would make a nice light for use around the house and night time outdoor use. The PD22 is cute too. But the only benefit would be some extra brightness for the occasional times I need to see something distant at night and don't have one of my other lights with me. So I might as well edc the single AA light with eneloop. 

I shouldn't think so hard about it, lol. In a year or two I end up gifting them or selling anyway so I can get something new.


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## BullsEyeLantern (Apr 14, 2012)

Just checked the stats:

[h=2]Tenergy Rechargable CR123A 900mah Li-ion (Protected)[/h]Modified Voltage to achieve 3.2v at full voltage; once loaded, cell voltage drops to 3.0v.

Wouldn't these be fine?


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## Yamabushi (Apr 20, 2012)

Just got my PD22 and, so far, love it. It will definitely be one of my EDCs.

As regulation suggested in his post, holding it overhand with thumb on the tailswitch and operating the sideswitch with another finger works nicely.


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## Labrador72 (Apr 21, 2012)

Yamabushi said:


> As regulation suggested in his post, holding it overhand with thumb on the tailswitch and operating the sideswitch with another finger works nicely.



That's interesting. If it works well with the PD22 it must work for the PD32 and LD12! The only one that would require two hands must be the LD22 then... unless someone has huge hands I don't see the ring or little finger reaching out to the side switch when holding the light in ice-pick grip.


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## RobCob (May 9, 2012)

How durable do you think the light is? Side mode selector possible fail point? I think they should get rid of the high mode and only have low, medium, and turbo.


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## Labrador72 (May 9, 2012)

So far a lot of people have questioned the durability of the side switch but I've never seen a post where somebody owning a LD12/LD22 or PD22/PD32 was reporting problems with the switch. 

The high mode has its purpose - i.e.: when the medium is not bright enough the high could do and still give you a much better runtime than the turbo.
If you prefer a light with only a Low, Med and "Turbo" check out the Klarus XT1C.


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## RobCob (May 9, 2012)

Anybody doing a review of this light? Would love to see some beam shots (outdoor).


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## lightwait (May 10, 2012)

RobCob said:


> How durable do you think the light is? Side mode selector possible fail point? I think they should get rid of the high mode and only have low, medium, and turbo.


I have the LD12 since it came out and recently got the LD22. I don't have any bad feelings about the side switch. The rubber boot is low profile and seems sturdy and the switch has a nice 'silent click' feel to it. I have not experienced any jumping of modes that sloppy contacts might produce. Only time will tell for sure. I would worry more about the tail cap. My LD22 came with defective tail cap. (quickly replaced by Fenix Outfitters) My original very first Fenix had a bad tail switch and I have had a bad switch on a Surefire too. So I worry about clickies in general. I think the PD22 would be as solid as any other Fenix lights.
As for 'High' mode, I would not eliminate that. For most tasks, it's as useful as turbo, but twice the run time.


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## Sensination (May 21, 2012)

Just got my PD22 and I must say this is lovely little light! I will address the main points and concerns raised in this thread here:

1. Side button - I must say I really like it due to memory option. Once I choose the brightness I don't use it very often. 
2. When using Tenergy LiFePo4 there are only two modes High and Medium. Difficult to say how many lumens but close to primaries (maybe even bit brighter)
3. It's a real bummer you can't use regular LiIon's 
4. Light is really small, well built and with nice beam.

That's all in my opinion


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## DisrupTer911 (May 21, 2012)

GoingGear has a youtube review up on the PD22, LD12 and LD22.


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## kj2 (May 21, 2012)

It's a very nice light, to bad though that it only can handle(according Fenix) 3V 123. Fenix should begin supporting 3.2V 123


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## LightWalker (May 21, 2012)

Is the PD22 head legoable with other Fenix lights such as L1D/L2D?


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## Sensination (May 22, 2012)

According to Fenix it can take 3.3V max. My batteries are 3.34V and the flashlight works however I have only two modes.


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## kj2 (May 22, 2012)

Sensination said:


> According to Fenix it can take 3.3V max. My batteries are 3.34V and the flashlight works however I have only two modes.


So, it doesn't work correctly.


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## lightwait (May 22, 2012)

LightWalker said:


> Is the PD22 head legoable with other Fenix lights such as L1D/L2D?


I don't have the PD22, but I do have the LD12/22. For them, no, the threads are more course on the newer lights and they won't thread with the L1D. I'm assuming the PD22 is the same threads as the LD12/22.

I did some checking here with the LD10: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...D12-and-LD22&p=3944797&highlight=#post3944797


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## Sensination (May 22, 2012)

kj2 said:


> So, it doesn't work correctly.



Nope, it doesn't. What is even worse, when using Tenergy LiPo4's you get only max 30 minutes on high output (lower is barely lower) and you have to turn it off to prevent the battery discharging over 2.2V terefore primaries are your only option. I guess this light is only good for backup using good primary with long expiration date. It's a shame as it would be a brilliant light if it could take regular 4.2V LiIon's. 

I guess I just sell it...


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## LightWalker (May 22, 2012)

lightwait said:


> I don't have the PD22, but I do have the LD12/22. For them, no, the threads are more course on the newer lights and they won't thread with the L1D. I'm assuming the PD22 is the same threads as the LD12/22.
> 
> I did some checking here with the LD10: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...D12-and-LD22&p=3944797&highlight=#post3944797



Thanks.


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## JBrown50601 (Nov 4, 2012)

I was also looking at this light for an EDC light and so far this is the best one I've found with all the things I want


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## appliancejunk (Aug 4, 2013)

lightwait said:


> I was just researching. I have the LD12. I am considering adding the LD22 and/or PD22 to the collection. In comparing the lumen levels of each mode, I'm thinking all 3 have a different head. if they were the same head, I would expect at least medium and high would match up between the PD22 and LD12. I'm just guessing of course.
> 
> max, high, medium, low:
> 
> ...




Fenix has changed low setting from 8 lumens to just 3 lumens on the G2 version of the PD22.
IMHO a much more useful low setting...

PD22 (G2)
3 lumes/120 hours
45 lumens/12hours 30min.
105 lumens/5hours
210 lumens/2hours

I had one of the first PD22's and found the 8 lumens just to high as I was use to using the 3 lumens on my LD12 so I returned it.

After seeing the specs on the new G2 version and confirming with Fenix that in fact low setting was now only 3 lumens and it was not a typo I bought the new G2 version. IMHO that spacing from low to high is much more useful now.


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## donjoe (Sep 20, 2013)

Does anyone know what the strobe frequency is on this thing? All I'm seeing in all promotional materials is "rapid strobe".


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## lightwait (Sep 20, 2013)

donjoe said:


> Does anyone know what the strobe frequency is on this thing? All I'm seeing in all promotional materials is "rapid strobe".



I don't know real numbers, but it alternates from fast to slow every second. Fast is an annoying blur to me, I'm guessing maybe 20hz. Its tough to look at. Slow is almost countable, maybe 8hz. Very rough guesses. Maybe there is a you tube video that shows it.


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## donjoe (Sep 20, 2013)

Meh. Then I already know I don't like it. I prefer a constant-frequency strobe because I found I could also occasionally use it as a dancefloor light at house parties  (which I actually did with my PD30 three times in the three years I had it).


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## Teno (Jan 8, 2014)

Is there a way to know if you just buy G1 or G2?
I just buy one n Argentina today, but not sure.

Entering serial number in Fenix website claims to be just PD22...

Thanks,

Marcelo


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## kj2 (Jan 8, 2014)

PD22 - PD22 S2 - PD22 XP-G2
How many lumens does the box say?


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## Labrador72 (Jan 8, 2014)

That's strange: usually the tool on the Fenix website always specifies the emitter, much more so for the more recent lights.

Yes, it's easily possible to tell if you get a G1 or G2. First it will be on the box and if you are still unsure, just google images of the CREE XP-G2 and XP-G: you'll see the older XP-G has 4 horizontal filaments while the new XP-G2 does not!


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## Indexmill (Jan 26, 2014)

I just bought the Fenix PD22 from REI.

Is there any rechargeable battery that will work with this light?

If not, it will serve as a backup / emergency light.


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## Scooby214 (Jan 26, 2014)

Indexmill said:


> I just bought the Fenix PD22 from REI.
> 
> Is there any rechargeable battery that will work with this light?
> 
> If not, it will serve as a backup / emergency light.


Tenergy makes a 3.0 volt rechargeable battery, but the battery requires a special charger. The batteries have a shorter runtime, as they are either 750 mAh or 900 mAh. I just looked at Amazon. A set of four 900 mAh batteries with the charger from Tenergy currently sells for $27.99. Just search Amazon for Tenergy rcr123a 3.0v 900mah.

The PD22 is one of my regular lights for EDC. I get good enough runtime from primary lithium batteries that it's not worth the expense for me to go with the rechargeables. I currently am able to buy CR123a primaries online for about $1.00 each, and can buy Surefire batteries locally for about $2.25 each at Batteries Plus.


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## Joeymt3 (Jan 27, 2014)

I haven't used a rechargeable battery yet and I'm a little scared too. I love this light too much to risk damage. Rechargeable would be nice though. This is the only light I have that takes the CR123's except for weapon mounted lights and I'm half way thru my second box of SF CR123's. 

I can tell you that this light is very tough. It's been dropped many times. Under water, grease, oil, etc. it rides on my leatherman pouch and many times gets knocked on things as I walk by. 

I usually keep it on power level two. The memory function is really nice. I also keep the clip lined up with the side button so I know exactly where it is in the dark. When I need a headlight, I just pop the clip off and reinstall it backwards. I can then clip it to the bill of my hat. 

As for the durability of the buttons... They show little to no wear. They have always functioned perfectly.


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## Joeymt3 (Jan 27, 2014)

Here are some pics of a battle tested light. 

It fits nicely on my leatherman pouch





The fenix logo is almost wore off the lanyard.


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## Joeymt3 (Jan 27, 2014)

The lens still looks new!






The edges are pretty dulled. Nothing done intentional.


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## 5S8Zh5 (Jun 16, 2016)

My 200 lumen PD22 just went back into my pocket as EDC. This was my first (pre-CPF) LED light that was a birthday gift. I started carrying it before I knew what EDC was. Post CPF, I got and carried my HDS Exec 250 for a few days, but due to it's weight, and non-intuitive modes, I got a Malkoff MDC HA 1AA and carried it for months, until now - where I've come full circle back to my PD22. Next to a 4seven frankenlight:


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