# Do you reflow? toaster, hot air, or reflow oven?



## flashlightGiggles (Jan 9, 2015)

Curiosity is going to get me killed some day. I want to build a P60 dropin using a Sinkpad because it looks like Sinkpads provide superior heat transfer compared to any other MCPCBs. My problem is that but I can't find anywhere that offers pre-mounted LEDs on Sinkpads. In fact, Sinkpads are kind of hard to find for sale anywhere.
SO, I've been reading up on reflow soldering.

There are kitchen toasters, hot plates, hot air stations, and reflow ovens.

Do many of you reflow your own LEDs?
How do you do your reflow soldering?


----------



## AndyF (Jan 9, 2015)

I think vestureofblood offers reflow service. I asked him about a year ago.


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


----------



## flashlightGiggles (Jan 9, 2015)

Thanks!
is vestureofblood a member here? I found him on ebay and the only places I've seen that offer Sinkpads are vestureofblood on ebay, 1 other ebay seller (very limited selection), and direct from Sinkpad.

I also realized that Noctigon boards offer a direct thermal path. mtnelectronics offers quite a few pre-attached LED/MCPCB combos.

I'm still curious as to what methods people here use for reflowing.


----------



## gunga (Jan 9, 2015)

I usually use a small frying pan. In a pinch I just clamp the board and use a soldering iron, but I'm not a huge fan of this method.


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Jan 9, 2015)

I use the hot air attachment on a Weller Pyropen. I hold the mPCB with tweezers just far enough away to not heat it too quickly. Takes a little practice but I get nice consistent results and I can adjust the heat for heavier copper mPCBs.


----------



## datiLED (Jan 9, 2015)

I use a hot air rework station. It is one of those purchases that I wish I had made years earlier. It makes reflowing an LED onto a MCPCB quick and easy. I use solder paste on the pads, and the LED simply floats into place when it is heated. I also build small PCBs with SMT components, and use the station often. I had to replace the element after about three years of frequent use, but it took less than 5 minutes to change. FWIW, I paid about $90 for the hot air station about 4 years ago, and bought it off of eBay.

I used to use my soldering station to reflow LEDs onto MCPCBs. I would apply solder paste on the pads, or pre-tin and use flux. Hold the tip of the clean iron directly under the LED, and it should flow into place in a few seconds. The direct thermal path LEDs take longer. You will want to use at least a 40W soldering station, turned to it's highest setting, but a 60W is much better. I have this soldering station which is a Hakko 936 clone, and it is absolutely awesome. I use Hakko 900M-T-I, or T18-I tips, which can also be found on eBay.


----------



## AB8XL (Jan 9, 2015)

When reworking components on aluminum or copper clad PCB's I use a Thermo hot plate set to around 240 degrees Celsius, a pair of forceps to hold or remove the board on and off from the hot plate and tweezers to remove and place the components on the board. Prior to re-flowing the new component I apply a small amount of flux to achieve proper wetting.


----------



## m4a1usr (Jan 10, 2015)

I use a narrow tipped heat shrink gun. Works perfectly and it takes all of 2 or 3 minutes from beginning to end. There are several you tube videos showing the technique. Has served me well over the years. International Outdoors has a large selection of reflowed Noctigon boards with whatever LED you desire.


----------



## jabe1 (Jan 10, 2015)

I use an upside down frying pan and a good pair of forceps.


----------



## kosPap (Jan 16, 2015)

I use a hot air gun of mediocre quality....
I keep the ELD on the airstream with a pair of long locking pliers.
It takes just 7 seconds to reflow and a bit longer woth the copper boards.

I laso use a thick metal surface to lay the LED on for cooling


----------



## revilo951 (Jan 16, 2015)

I just use a soldering iron. Not hard. Just make sure you have a blob of solder on your tip for efficient heat transfer. Works wonders.


----------



## Fireclaw18 (Jan 16, 2015)

I also use a soldering iron ... a very cheap 40w I got from Radio Shack 25 years ago. Doesn't even have an off switch.

I have a small table vice that sits on my desk. I put a wooden clothes clip in the vice, and then put the star in the clip. Then I hold the iron to the bottom of the star. The wooden clothes clip insulates the star and prevents heat from transmitting to the vice.

After reflowing is complete, I'll give the bottom of the star a few swipes with a file to wipe off any solder that may have transferred from the iron.

This method is quick and I can use the same vice and iron I use for soldering driver wires. It's very convenient.

I would like to get a hot air gun though. I've concluded that trying to remove the microprocessor from a Nanjg 105c with just a soldering iron doesn't work.


----------



## gunga (Jan 16, 2015)

Great idea on the clip! Might not work for my tiny stars, but I'll give it a go!


----------



## sunny_nites (Jan 16, 2015)

I've used a soldering iron, when there is enough room and a cheap Harborfreight heat gun and a 1' square ceramic tile. Have to be careful with the heat gun as it puts out a lot of air and can blow components around if not facing directly down.


----------



## think2x (Jan 16, 2015)

Emitter board clipped in my "helping hands" with heat gun under it, followed up with a damp sponge to cool.


----------



## chance91 (Jan 17, 2015)

flashlightGiggles said:


> Curiosity is going to get me killed some day. I want to build a P60 dropin using a Sinkpad because it looks like Sinkpads provide superior heat transfer compared to any other MCPCBs. My problem is that but I can't find anywhere that offers pre-mounted LEDs on Sinkpads. In fact, Sinkpads are kind of hard to find for sale anywhere.
> SO, I've been reading up on reflow soldering.
> 
> There are kitchen toasters, hot plates, hot air stations, and reflow ovens.
> ...



Are you just looking for a sinkpad (10mm, 16mm, or 20mm?) with an LED mounted on it, in the end? I buy mine this way, commonly enough. And in some of my lights, mod them to 14mm.

One site I get good luck with, http://www.leddna.com/cree-led-mounted-on-sinkpad/ should also have XP-L as well on Sinkpad 16mms. As well, check ebay, I purchase mounted ones there, from time to time. On one site, you have to search the LED you want, then there are 4 options usually, 16mm alum, 20mm alu, 16mm copper sinkpad, 20mm copper sinkpad from a drop down menu. BTW, what LED are you looking for? I just did 2 XM-L2 and 3 XP-L on sinkpads. I'm currently making a rig to cut them to 14mm more easily.

Not to take away from the great tips here, because I learned something from reading them :-D

XP-l on sinkpad
http://www.leddna.com/cree-xp-l-led-warm-white-u5-7a-3000k/


----------



## louie (Jan 18, 2015)

I reflow on an upside-down travel iron - here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...pe-for-led-s&p=4138405&highlight=#post4138405

I have a hot air rework station, hot air gun, etc, but this works for me!
(note-I cheap out by using normal solder, smashed flat and chopped into teeny bits. Paste would probably be easier.)


----------



## flashlightGiggles (Jan 18, 2015)

I kind of gave up on Sinkpads because they're difficult to find. I ended up ordering a couple of XML2s on Noctigon MCPCBs from Mountain Electropnics.

These will be for solarforce dropins, so 16mm.

Someday, when I save up extra money, I may pickup a hot air station, but it's encouraging to see so many people "MacGyver-ing" their LEDs with frying pans, soldering irons, and clothes irons.


----------



## chance91 (Jan 18, 2015)

flashlightGiggles said:


> I kind of gave up on Sinkpads because they're difficult to find. I ended up ordering a couple of XML2s on Noctigon MCPCBs from Mountain Electropnics.
> 
> These will be for solarforce dropins, so 16mm.
> 
> Someday, when I save up extra money, I may pickup a hot air station, but it's encouraging to see so many people "MacGyver-ing" their LEDs with frying pans, soldering irons, and clothes irons.



I mean, the one place I use, leddna has them, and maybe dealextreme and ebay, but not seeing them too many other places. Nothing wrong with noctigon, though.

This thread has been educational on reflowing, though. Going to be using that one day.


----------



## Mr Floppy (Jan 19, 2015)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> I use the hot air attachment on a Weller Pyropen. I hold the mPCB with tweezers just far enough away to not heat it too quickly. Takes a little practice but I get nice consistent results and I can adjust the heat for heavier copper mPCBs.



I don't know why more people don't report using this method. Those hot air attachments work great.


----------



## KDM (Feb 1, 2015)

I use this two burner hotplate and IR temperature gun. I set one burner for my preheat temperature and the other for my flow temperature. Following the manufacturer flow times and temperatures along with solder paste I've had great results. Picked it up from Walmart for about $20-30 bucks.


----------



## jason 77 (Feb 25, 2015)

I just got this in the mail today. After testing it out on some cheap LEDs and stars I had lying about, it looks like it will work great!


----------



## jason 77 (Feb 27, 2015)

getting better at it...


----------



## KDM (Feb 27, 2015)

Looking good! I really like my hot plate setup, one thing I want to do is put a thermostat controller on it. The cut in and cut out temperature differential is a bit to spaced apart. I just keep a check on the surface temperature with the infrared gun and adjust it accordingly for now.


----------



## jason 77 (Feb 28, 2015)

KDM said:


> Looking good! I really like my hot plate setup, one thing I want to do is put a thermostat controller on it. The cut in and cut out temperature differential is a bit to spaced apart. I just keep a check on the surface temperature with the infrared gun and adjust it accordingly for now.



Yeah my set up could use a thermostat controller on it, I use a infrared gun on mine as well. It is still way better than my old way of using my soldering iron, Thanks for the idea!


----------

