# Brake Motor + VFD Help



## olephart (Aug 19, 2010)

I'm thinking about changing the 220V single phase motor on my mill/drill to a 3 phase AC motor controlled by a VFD. A friend has a Baldor BM 3556T "Brake Motor" that he wants to sell me cheap. I'm not looking for specific hook up info (yet). Just want know if this motor and an inexpensive controller will work together and power the mill.

All I have been able to find out about brake motors is they stop fast when power is removed and are recommended for machine tools. The Baldor info seems extensive, but it's all Greek to me. I did notice that it's 1140 RPM. I should get a max RPM of about 1700 with the existing pulley system. That is OK for me.

I wonder if there is some down side to this type motor and if there any special requirements for the VFD used to control it? Would a Hitachi 200 series controller be OK?


Baldor Specs:
http://www.baldor.com/products/deta...BrakeMotor&winding=35WG1272&rating=40CMB-CONT


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## 65535 (Aug 19, 2010)

If it's a truly smoking deal. (Under $200, since you can get at least a 1HP Baldor for that on eBay) then go for it, you should be able to remove the brake, you won't really need it. IMO it'll just add issue since VFD's allow for braking as it is.


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## precisionworks (Aug 19, 2010)

Not trying to be negative about that motor, BUT ...

It is a 1hp motor *at full rpm*, meaning that if or when you slow it down to 10% of full speed (which I often do) you have only 1/10 hp. Think sewing machine motor. 

When sizing a motor for VFD use, first determine what you want the lowest speed to be - either motor shaft speed or machine spindle rpm. That's the reason I've always replaced 1hp motors with a 3hp motor ... even at 10% of full speed, you have 3/10 hp working, plus you also have 300% of the torque of the 1hp motor.

The biggest mistake I see people making is to go too small on the horsepower & then find out the machine cannot do the job at the slowest speeds.



> Would a Hitachi 200 series controller be OK?


If you mean the current model X200, it isn't suitable for machine tool drive. It's a *volts per Hz *design, well suited for pumps & fans where the load decreases as the rpm decreases. For a machine tool, look for a *vector drive*, which often costs little more than a V/Hz drive.

My current favorite drive, and the one that Will Quiles used on his mill, is the ACTech SMVector. Well made (in the USA ), easily configured, awesome tech support. Three SMVectors are in my shop, plus one Hitachi. http://www.wolfautomation.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=19500

The Hitachi's are very nice, made in Japan. On a per horsepower basis, their price is quite a bit higher than ACTech. Configuring (programming, or parameter setting) the Hitachi is a genuine pain, and I always end up calling tech support.

Hard to go wrong with the SMVector, although the Teco/Westinghouse EV Series does a nice job at a very low cost: http://www.wolfautomation.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=28926

Lots of VFD (and rotary converter) info on the PM forum: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/transformers-phase-converters-vfd/


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## olephart (Aug 19, 2010)

Thanks for all the info. The motor is $100 - its new in da box. I was planning on continuing to use the belt system to keep the motor in the 50 to 100% range to minimize heat. I can produce 100% power at 8 settings between 80 and 1700 RPM. I am mostly drilling and making fairly light cuts in aluminum, so I wouldn't be changing belt settings too often.

I'm rethinking the whole thing. I can do the above for about $250. Going to 3hp with similar quality is around $450. That's more than I want to spend on this. I guess I need to find out what amount of work can be done at 1/2 hp and go from there.


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## precisionworks (Aug 19, 2010)

> keep the motor in the 50% to 100% range


As long as the motor speed is not lower than 50% (30 Hz), the 1hp motor should be fine. Buy a vector drive VFD, like the SMVector ESV751N02YXB for $184.25, or the Teco JNEV-201-H1 for $140.98. Both will do a great job for your application.

http://www.wolfautomation.com/Category.aspx?CategoryID=823


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## olephart (Aug 20, 2010)

That is encouraging. I am looking at the Telco unit you recommended and will probably go with that if I continue. I ran across information that said the motor brake can't be used with a VFD. Apparently it will draw more current than the VFD can supply.

Other folks say it can be used independent of the VFD. The motor brake has to be powered with a separate service and the VFD set to coast rather than brake. I can't find any info about disabling the motor brake, but it may be as simple as removing the power leads from the coils.

I need to research all this and determine the best option. I would really prefer to use the motor brake rather than spending more on resistors for the VFD.


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## precisionworks (Aug 20, 2010)

Some Baldor brake motors are set up for VFD control, but this model does not appear to be. Baldor states:



> Spring-set brake. Power off operation manual release. Resets automatically. Brakes internally connected to motor on 215T and smaller.


The BM3556T is built on a NEMA 145T frame, so it falls into the "215T and smaller" classification. Since the brake is internally connected, it does not appear that it can be disabled or controlled by VFD. If you phone Baldor & ask for tech support, they'll be happy to discuss this at length & help you determine if this motor is suitable.

http://www.baldor.com/pdf/501_Catalog/Section14_BrakeMotors.pdf

If not, 1hp 3ph motors are both common & cheap, either on eBay or Craigslist. My local scrap dealer sells them by weight, and I paid $50 for a 10hp motor ... a 1hp motor would sell here for around $20. These are used (surplus) motors, meaning some may need bearings & all will need cleaning & painting. They are cheap, and rarely will you get one that is DOA. My dealer does allow return for exchange if a motor is DOA.


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## wquiles (Aug 20, 2010)

precisionworks said:


> My current favorite drive, and the one that Will Quiles used on his mill, is the ACTech SMVector. Well made (in the USA ), easily configured, awesome tech support. Three SMVectors are in my shop, plus one Hitachi. http://www.wolfautomation.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=19500


+1

I have one used in my 3HP Mill and a second one used in my 5HP (used as 3 HP) Quincy compressor. Definitely first class hardware, great customer support, and fairly easy to setup 

My next one will also be an ACTech SMVector when I convert my 12x lathe to Variable Speed sometime (I hope) this year


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## precisionworks (Aug 20, 2010)

> My next one will also be an ACTech SMVector


+1

The easiest VFD to configure is the SMVector ... based on my own experience setting up over two dozen different brands, models, etc. Hitachi is far and away the worst, Square D - TeleMechanique ranks a close second, some Allen-Bradley are easy & some are nightmares (same with Siemens), most Baldor are OK, WEG has terrible documentation (as does T B Woods), Teco isn't bad but is more difficult than the SMVector.

There are (sometimes) great buys on larger drives like Yaskawa, Leeson, Tosvert, Reliance, etc. Research any drive carefully, especially older ones, as there may be limited or no documentation. Also, if a drive has not been powered for a number of years, the caps will need to be "re-formed" ... here's one suggested way to do this (from ABB):

http://www05.abb.com/global/scot/sc...$File/Guide_for_capacitor_reforming_Rev_G.pdf


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## olephart (Aug 20, 2010)

I called Baldor. Very nice people and quite helpful. 2 options. To use the motor brake, cut 2 wires from the stator to the brake coil and attach them to an independently powered (230V) normally open relay triggered by the VFD.

To disable the brake, snip those wires and remove some brake parts. This seems to be the best choice.

Here's a mildly interesting fact I picked up while chatting with the Baldor guy. The various Baldor models have different ratings for speed ratios. Seems that exceeding these ratings will be very hard on the windings. Some are 4:1 which means you should not slow a 60 cycle motor to less than 15 cycles. Many are 10:1 and the premium motors are 20:1. There is supposed to be a chart on p. 189 of their catalog with the ratings if it is of any interest for your application.

I think I'm gonna get the motor even with the required surgery. I place a premium on it's new condition rather than using a cheaper motor in unknown condition. For a bigger motor, I'd probably go the used route and factor in a rebuild.


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## 65535 (Aug 20, 2010)

eBay does have smoking deals on new motors.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Baldor-2HP-3-PH...-RPM-NIOB-/220593798947?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

Don't know where you are located, but you may be able to pick up. Even at $200 shipped that's a good deal in my book.

Found this mammoth for $200 free shipping.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-BALDOR-ELEC...220503321929?pt=BI_Electrical_Equipment_Tools


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## olephart (Aug 20, 2010)

Not bad. I wonder what it would cost to get 460V power to my house?


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## precisionworks (Aug 20, 2010)

> To use the motor brake, cut 2 wires from the stator to the brake coil and attach them to an independently powered (230V) normally open relay triggered by the VFD.


That's a nice option, as there are quite a few VFD outputs that can be used for relay control. Set up the drive so that hitting the stop button engages the brake & you'll have instant stop 



> eBay does have smoking deals on new motors.


The 2hp motor would be a decent deal for about $75 IF they would ship using my own UPS account (which gets 40% off list price).

The 3hp motor is nearly identical to those that power four of my machines with VFD control - the eBay motor is a M3611 (NEMA 182 frame) and my motors are M3611T (NEMA 182T frame). With free shipping that's a good price, especially if they accept an offer of $150-$175.

Motor prices don't go up much as the horsepower goes above 3hp, but VFD prices almost double if a 5hp (single phase input) is needed. The sweet spot for drives is 3hp max, where they aren't expensive.



> wonder what it would cost to get 460V power to my house?


Most motors are able to be wired for low voltage (208-230v) or high voltage (460v). A few machines, especially those from Europe, require 460, 480, 550, etc. For those, a step up (boost) transformer is the least expensive way to go.


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## wquiles (Aug 20, 2010)

precisionworks said:


> The 3hp motor is nearly identical to those that power four of my machines with VFD control - the eBay motor is a M3611 (NEMA 182 frame) and my motors are M3611T (NEMA 182T frame). With free shipping that's a good price, especially if they accept an offer of $150-$175.


As you know, that is what I did 

I followed your advice and bought brand new 3HP Baldor for about $150 shipped (used in the mill), and the big 5HP Baldor for about $175 shipped (planned for the 12x).

The key is to have patience. And wait. And wait some more. Until the right deal comes through


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## olephart (Aug 20, 2010)

I was happy to learn that you could use the motor brake, but I can't figure out why I want to. It's more cost and complexity and I don't know why I need the mill to stop instantly - hardly any of them do that. The VFD should stop it a little faster than coasting, anyway. I was also thinking about having to go around back and manually releasing the brake every time I want to rotate the spindle by hand.

This project could easily escalate to the point that trading up for a Bridgeport would be a good idea. Anything beyond the KISS principle is out of place with this equipment. Lipstick on a pig.

So far it looks feasible. I'll need to make a bushing for the motor sheave (24mm to 7/8), disable the motor brake and attach the line in and out wires to the VFD. The Teco unit already has the variable speed pot and the motor mounts are the same. That should do it. No additional switches, relays, pots, etc.


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## 65535 (Aug 20, 2010)

You could wire the brake into a kill switch. For most applications a VFD will stop the motor fast enough. 

If you crash and the spindle picks up the workpiece having a kill switch that locks the motor brake and kills VFD power would be a good thing.


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## olephart (Aug 20, 2010)

"You could wire the brake into a kill switch."


That seems to be the case. Once ya run a separate 220V line with relay to the brake coil, the VFD can do anything it can do for a "regular" motor.


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## precisionworks (Aug 21, 2010)

> The VFD should stop it a little faster than coasting, anyway.


+1

A drive (without any braking resistors) will stop the motor quickly when the motor speed is very slow ... if the motor is running at 1/10 of full speed (114 rpm @ 6 HZ) the stop is instant. That allows tapping with instant reverse, a very nice feature of VFD control for a drill press.

As motor speed is increased, stopping time increases as well. Same applies if you add heavy tooling (which is rarely the case while drilling or tapping). Stops are still quick at 2/10 speed (228 rpm @ 12 Hz), but are noticeably slow running much above that. Play with the decel setting & you'll find a number that works most of the time, worst thing being that too fast a decel will fault the drive & you'll have to reset the drive - no big deal.












The red "mushroom" switch is the E-stop or kill switch. Mount one where it's easy to hit when things start flying & crashing  That's about the only time you'll need it, unless you get a shirt sleeve or glove hung up in the tool. Since none of us _ever _wear gloves around machinery, that shouldn't be an issue ...


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## olephart (Aug 21, 2010)

Nice setup. Do you need extra resistors for the E-stop?


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## wquiles (Aug 21, 2010)

olephart said:


> Nice setup. Do you need extra resistors for the E-stop?



Nothing extra for the E-stop. The E-stop is really a "logic" signal to the VFD controller - think of it as the "enable" signal. You can program/design so that it is normally open or normally closed - very easy to do.

You can even have more than one, having then wired in series, so that either all of them have to be closed/open for the machine to run (I did that already in my mill VFD conversion). That is also how I am going to wire my lathe, so make sure that all of the safety interconnect/switches are still active/working when I do the VFD conversion, plus I am (at least right now) planning to add an E-stop on the carriage itself for redundancy.

It will be a great/fun project if I "ever" get the time to start :devil:


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## olephart (Aug 21, 2010)

So, the E-stop is just another "off" switch. It doesn't provide any additional braking other than what is programmed into the VFD.

I will have to mount one on the floor in line with the nearest exit. In the event of a major crash, that will be very convenient for me.


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## wquiles (Aug 21, 2010)

olephart said:


> So, the E-stop is just another "off" switch. It doesn't provide any additional braking other than what is programmed into the VFD.



You got it 

In fact, if you look at Barry's wiring for the E-stop, you will note it is not a "thick" wire - there is no motor-type current flowing. On my own setup for the mill, although I do have a thicker outer jacket for protection, the actual conductor is actually Ethernet wire


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## olephart (Aug 21, 2010)

I'm getting more comfortable with the idea of using the motor brake. I don't have a clue about selecting a relay for the job. The Baldor guy said to use a 220V normally open relay. Can you point to a part number somewhere for an appropriate relay?


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## precisionworks (Aug 21, 2010)

> The Baldor guy said to use a 220V normally open relay. Can you point to a part number somewhere for an appropriate relay?



220v refers to the voltage across the relay contacts that activate the brake. The "other" side of the relay (the coil) will need to work at low voltage, usually called control voltage. A common relay is the P&B (Potter & Brumfield) KRP series ... been around for at least 50 years & continues to do a good job. 

Click on this link & scroll down (& click on) KRP: http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/pnb.asp


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## olephart (Aug 21, 2010)

Thank you. I still clueless. Don't know how many poles and throws I need. Can you select a complete part number? Also, how you connect all those prongs? Is there another part that this relay plugs into?


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## precisionworks (Aug 21, 2010)

The relay connection is an octal socket (8 pins), available wherever the relay is sold. For the E-stop, a single pole, single throw switch is needed ... unless Will Q says differently :nana:


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## wquiles (Aug 21, 2010)

precisionworks said:


> ... unless Will Q says differently :nana:


Nah - am with you on this one


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## olephart (Aug 21, 2010)

Thanks. Its seems like start, stop and emergency stop all need a relay and separate power feed. Will one relay do it all?


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## wquiles (Aug 21, 2010)

olephart said:


> Thanks. Its seems like start, stop and emergency stop all need a relay and separate power feed. Will one relay do it all?



The switches or buttons used to start, stop, and E-stop are "all" logic signals and require no power (unless you are using a "lighted" switch that requires separate power for the bulb/filament). There is also no need for a relay for these - there is no power being switched, so the switch/button connects directly to the VFD control unit.

My Mill VFD conversion starts here in post #135, and shows some of the details.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/223336&page=6

Barry also has some diagrams (see post #152), which are helpful. I describe how I wired my Forward/Stop/Reverse in post #153.


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## precisionworks (Aug 21, 2010)

> seems like start, stop and emergency stop all need a relay and separate power feed.


The easiest way to control the motor is to use the touch pad switches on the VFD panel for FWD/STOP/REV.

The most simple way to wire the E-stop (but only for a brake motor like yours) is to not use the VFD at all, but make the E-stop circuit separate. Buy a low voltage control transformer (24v or less), buy the relay with coil voltage to match the control transformer, use the E-stop switch in series with one power lead to the coil. You can tap off the 220v that powers the VFD by placing a large junction box (like a 6x6x6 Hoffman box) in line before the VFD. The relay switches the 220v to the brake and the E-stop controls the 24v (or less) to the relay coil.

Probably takes less time to wire it than it does to describe it


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## olephart (Aug 21, 2010)

Thanks for hanging in there. I think I have the concept about how it works without the brake motor. My current confusion involves how to do it with the motor brake operational. Do the on, off and e-stop functions all go to a single relay or is there a relay for each function? I'll go and read the referenced post and see if the light comes on.

I think I'm gonna go back to the kiss method and disable the brake and use the controls on the VFD. After things are running, I'll see about adding things one at a time.


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## precisionworks (Aug 22, 2010)

> Do the on, off and e-stop functions all go to a single relay or is there a relay for each function?



FWD/STOP/REV are controlled by a single pole, double throw switch. Relays are not involved as the current & voltage are infinitesimally small.



> The Baldor guy said to use a 220V normally open relay.


A N.O. relay contact is needed IF the VFD is used to control the relay. Since you don't want to instant stop the motor every time the stop switch is pressed, and only want to instant stop the motor in an emergency, don't use the VFD to activate the brake. 

Either use a small E-stop switch to control a low voltage relay coil, or use a heavy duty E-stop and eliminate the relay all together. Relay contacts are needed only to take the place of switch contacts that cannot handle the voltage & current required of the brake. Ask Baldor how many amps the brake draws, and either buy a relay that will handle those amps or an E-stop switch of the same rating.


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## olephart (Aug 22, 2010)

I think it's finally sinking in. Thank you for persevering. By putting the brake stop on a totally independent system, the VFD can perform it's normal functions as though it is controlling a regular motor. 

I've been visualizing a system where the normal run and stop commands would control the motor with 220V from the VFD and the VFD would also control the brake through a relay using a separate 220V source. I thought the motor brake would unlock with every start and lock with each stop. This seems hard or impossible at this point. No worries. I'll just disable the brake and proceed like it's a regular motor. Should be fine.


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## wquiles (Aug 22, 2010)

The only friendly warning that I must give you is that there is always the small risk that something might not be wired perfectly, that the ground path might not be connected right, and that you might damage the motor, the VDF, or worst, get hurt in the process as dealing with 220V is a risk by itself. 

I am not trying to scare you from a good project, but it would be irresponsible of me not to warn you about the possible and real dangers involved. When you approach doing this project and the wiring, you have to be absolutely 100% sure you know what you are doing - going into this project to learn as you go might prove more dangerous than it is worth.

What I feel would be a good course of action would be for you not to attempt this alone. It would be great to create a detailed schematic of all of the wiring and components "before" touching any real wires. Do you have local buddy/friend experienced with electronics and 220V power?


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## precisionworks (Aug 22, 2010)

> dealing with 220V is a risk by itself.


+1

220v (more correctly called 240v) is no joke. 

120v hurts but but most persons will be able to “let go” of the wire or remove themselves from contact. 240v is a different story, as the victim can be paralyzed, or the muscles will freeze (will not be able to release a tool, wire, or other object). Really painful, and may not be possible to let go. Not a problem if you use the "buddy system" where a friend (or your wife, etc.) can push you away from contact _using an insulated object like a broomstick or a 2x4. _It can be a fatal problem if you work alone.

If you *ever *have to work on an energized circuit (even though the NEC states in the first sentence in the Code Book "never work on energized equipment") at least get a pair of Class 00 lineman's gloves, usually under $20 on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310222606321&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Make sure they fit into a pair of leather "glove protectors" as the rubber by itself is easily punctured. Mine get used once or twice a week, even when there's almost no chance of contact with a live conductor.


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## olephart (Aug 22, 2010)

Thanks for all the help and good advise. Wiring the current plan won't be a problem. There won't be any live circuits. My problems are with electrical things having funny names and lots of wires. I guess I'm a leftover from when mechanical things ruled.


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## olephart (Aug 23, 2010)

I've decided to proceed. I'll get the motor tomorrow and Wolf Shipped the TECO VM drive today. I'll disable the brake motor and plan to place a switch before the VFD to turn it off when not in use. The existing 220V 1 phase service to the mill is already properly fused.

I'd like to use the existing (constant contact) fwd/off/rev switch and control it from the VFD through the S1 and S2 terminals and F11. E-stop may happen later through the S4 terminal.

I spoke to a tech guy at Wolf today. Very nice guy. I wanted to confirm that activating the FWD command by connecting S1 and common (F11 set to 000) would cause the motor to start as well as determining rotation. He didn't know, but thought a separate switch/function was required to energize the motor. Unfortunately, he couldn't find said switch/function and has been assigned some homework.

How about it? Do I really need a separate switch to start/stop the motor and another one for fwd/rev? If so, what function controls the stop and start?


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## precisionworks (Aug 24, 2010)

Which Teco drive did you buy ... is it the JNEV-201-H1?

For tech support, the only place to go is to the factory authorized source, Teco-Westinghouse Headquarters in Round Rock, Texas. Call them at 800-451-8798, ask for VFD support & they'll answer any question you have.

Wolf is a fine distributor, and I've purchased three drives from them, but their "support" is pretty limited (as is Dealers Electric, FactoryMation, etc.) Their primary purpose is sales & distribution.



> E-stop may happen later through the S4 terminal.


I can't understand why you'd want to involve the drive to control a function best done by a separate circuit.



> Do I really need a separate switch to start/stop the motor and another one for fwd/rev?


If your drill press has a drum switch that already includes a FWD/STOP/REV function (like the one on Will's milling machine), use those contacts to control the drive. Most drill press controls are ON/OFF, which can only be used to control FWD/STOP on the drive. If you want three wire control, you'll need to install a drum-type switch that has the necessary contacts to allow FWD/STOP/REV.


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## olephart (Aug 24, 2010)

Yes, I got the JNEV-201-H1. Seems to be just what I need. Wolf shipped immediately and had an excellent price. I appreciate the recommendation.

I'm not that hard headed and usually follow good advise once I understand it. If I do the E-stop, I don't plan to use the motor brake - just whatever the VFD will give me. That's why I would use S4. If I should use the motor brake, I'll use a separate circuit as you described.

Yes, the existing switch is a FWD/STOP/REV Switch. It is constant contact, not a momentary switch. Very mechanical and low tech. My understanding is that I do not need a 3 wire configuration to operate this type switch. I could be wrong .

Currently the switch turns the motor on and provides the correct direction of rotation by selecting FWD or REV. That's what I'm trying to accomplish with this switch and the VFD. The manual seems clear that S1 with F11=000 does the FWD rotation thing. S2 with F12=001 for REV.

It's not clear if those parameters also start the motor. That's what I'm trying to find out. It appears that F6 - "external control operation mode" may be the answer. F6=001 is "Run/stop-Forward/Reverse". that might make it work like I want. I just donno. 

Thanks for the contact info. I'll give em a call if Wolf doesn't call back. Maybe I can just try it once all the stuff is here.


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## olephart (Aug 25, 2010)

Finally found this on the web. It's not from the online manual, but maybe from the CD version which is supposed to have more info.





I really had a hard time following the bits and pieces of info on the web. It's probably because information that seems obvious to the writer ain't obvious to me. Also, with my lack of understanding, it's easy to make things harder than they are. With the risk of offending less challenged folks, I'll try to translate from engineer speak. If ya want to wire an external switch on the TECO VM series, here's what I have learned.

Tell the VFD ya want to use an external Switch by setting F4 to 001.

Tell the VFD how you want the switches to work. This is done with F6. Refer to the attached schematic to pick what suits you.

Tell the VFD what kind of signal input (NPN or PNP) you are using. You Choose either NPN or PNP by flipping Dip switch 1.

NPN is for regular contact switches - it uses ground to signal the selected terminal. PNP provides 24V DC for momentary switches (and other things to scary to mention).

Now ya need to tell the switches what their job is going to be. The 4 available switches, S1 through S4, are assigned their duties with F11 through F14. S1 is factory set to FWD, F2 = REV, F3 = JOG and F4 = E-Stop.

That about it except where all these things are located. Setting the functions are done using the Keypad. Most of rest is on the Control Signal Terminal Block. That's the thingy with 12 numbered screws on it. The NPN/PNP switch is just above the Terminal Block.

Here are the relevant Terminal locations:

T3- 24V power. Hooks to all PNP type (momentary) switches.
T4 - S1. FWD by default.
T5 - S2. REV by default.
T6 - S3. JOG by default
T7 - S4. E-Stop by default.
T8 - Common. Hooks to all NPN type (constant contact) switches.

So, ya have a regular old time toggle switch that has 3 positions, ON/OFF/ON. Ya want the machine to run forward in one position, stop in the middle and run in reverse with the other position.

Set F4 to 001, F6 to 000, Dip Switch 1 to NPN, F11 to 000, F12 to 001. Run a wire from T8 to the center of the switch and hook a wire from T4 to one end of the switch and a wire from T5 to the other end.

To add E-Stop with a contact switch to the previous setup: Leave all the previous settings alone. Set F14 to 006. Run a wire from T8 to one side of the E-Stop switch and hook a wire from T7 to the other side of the switch.


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## precisionworks (Aug 26, 2010)

I got lost immediately after "use an external Switch by setting F4 to 001." 

Before you do this, you may want to phone 800-451-8798, ask for VFD support. Tech support has done hundreds of these setups, & will quickly see if any of the command parameters cause a logic conflict with another value or setting. Most times, they change about half of what I think is correct :laughing:


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## olephart (Aug 26, 2010)

F4 allows the RUN command to work from the external switch and F6 determines how it works. F6 doesn't work unless F4 is set to 001. It looks like there is another way to do this using 3 wires and other functions. I have no idea how that is set up.

Since changing F4 to 001 is pretty intuitive and F6 defaults to 000, some folks are where they want to be even if they didn't know that F6 was the key to setting up the RUN, FWD, REV keys. 

Thanks for the phone number. I'll call them if necessary. First, I'm going to get everything set up and working properly using the keypad only. I may get this done by the weekend. I currently have a set screw stuck in the old motor pulley to deal with.


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## olephart (Aug 28, 2010)

*Re: Brake Motor + VFD Help - It Works!!*

It's up and running. No problems and it sure is swell. I tried a reasonable cut (for me) at 30Hz to see if the 1HP motor could take it. Used a 1" HSS mill and cut 3/4" wide by 1/2" deep. Like butter at 10 ipm. I don't know if heat will be excessive at low speed, but I really have no reason to do stuff like this when a simple belt adjustment will put it in a much better power range.

The wiring works as described in a previous post. Actually, all I had to do was change F4 to 001 and flip Switch 1 to the up position. Everything else was a factory default.

I have an ON/Off/ON toggle switch that works as FWD/OFF/REV. I also tested the E=Stop circuit although I don't have a switch, yet. In the photo, you can see the toggle switch hanging down to the right and below the VFD. The Yellow wire is T4 (S1), Blue is T5 (S2), Red is T7 (S4) and Black is T8 (Common).

I simulated the E-Stop switch by touching the Red wire to the Black wire and the machine came to a stop. It was a normal stop, so the switch is basically a way to mount an quick, easy to operate off switch.

I sure do appreciate all the help.


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