# quark mini AA & CR123 users thread



## ergotelis (Dec 7, 2009)

So, let the game begin!
Those guys that got already yours please tell us your impressions and give some beamshots. I will have mine also soon, i expect them this week. :naughty:


----------



## compasillo (Dec 7, 2009)

When did you place your order?


----------



## hron61 (Dec 7, 2009)

iv'e got my eye on one of these so im watching this thread closely. oh no not another light!! must resist. :thinking:


----------



## bansuri (Dec 7, 2009)

Mine's shipped!


----------



## madmook (Dec 7, 2009)

Some MiNi AA pics and beamshots have been posted in the MiNi thread on the 4sevens board...

Can't wait to get mine!!!


----------



## ergotelis (Dec 7, 2009)

madmook said:


> Some MiNi AA pics and beamshots have been posted in the MiNi thread on the 4sevens board...
> 
> Can't wait to get mine!!!



Yes, but it is time to continue the conversation here.



I ordered my flashlights the same day announced, can't remember exactly, so just check!Shipped in Friday, usually takes 1 week to come. So i hope i will have them by Friday!


----------



## compasillo (Dec 7, 2009)

ergotelis said:


> Yes, but it is time to continue the conversation here.
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered my flashlights the same day announced, can't remember exactly, so just check!Shipped in Friday, usually takes 1 week to come. So i hope i will have them by Friday!



You lucky guy... I'll have to wait a little more (ordered 26th/11) :sigh:


----------



## Federal LG (Dec 7, 2009)




----------



## Ian2381 (Dec 7, 2009)

Ordered mine.
Status: Back-ordered...:shakehead


----------



## zwerky (Dec 7, 2009)

i just got my mini123 today. it's ok, for the price. i think i still prefer my ez123. i compared the two and my particular ez123 is brighter than the mini123 ...also the tint on the mini123 seems to be a bit more yellow than the ez123, which is more on the cool white side.

over all the mini123 is a good little light. i just wish the lanyard hole was a bit bigger.


----------



## PCC (Dec 8, 2009)

I received mine today as well. MiNi AA. My daughter wants one now. She says that it's cute!

I have to say that I'm pretty happy with this light. I'm going to feed it a few alkaline batteries to begin with but will be switching to NiMH cells in a few days. Don't want a battery leaking all over the inside of my new light!

I tried an alkaline battery that read 0.9V on my multimeter and it would light up but high didn't work. I then tried a battery that read 1.04V and it would light up on high but it was about as bright as medium. A new battery really lights this little guy up and it will get a little bit warm after being left on high for about 10 or 15 minutes.


----------



## Solstice (Dec 8, 2009)

PCC said:


> I'm going to feed it a few alkaline batteries to begin with but will be switching to NiMH cells in a few days. Don't want a battery leaking all over the inside of my new light!



Does this light have a spring? I have the EZAA but I've been afraid to use eneloops because it seems like the twist action would crush the battery (not good for batteries that will be used over and over again). I'd like to switch to this one for the extra features and use rechargables, but just wanted some feedback to see if it was a battery crusher.


----------



## henry1960 (Dec 8, 2009)

My mini AA was sent out Monday, should have it by Thursday


----------



## hazna (Dec 8, 2009)

Solstice said:


> Does this light have a spring? I have the EZAA but I've been afraid to use eneloops because it seems like the twist action would crush the battery (not good for batteries that will be used over and over again). I'd like to switch to this one for the extra features and use rechargables, but just wanted some feedback to see if it was a battery crusher.



i believe 4sevens has said it has a spring


----------



## riva (Dec 8, 2009)

zwerky said:


> i just got my mini123 today. it's ok, for the price. i think i still prefer my ez123. i compared the two and my particular ez123 is brighter than the mini123 ...also the tint on the mini123 seems to be a bit more yellow than the ez123, which is more on the cool white side.
> 
> over all the mini123 is a good little light. i just wish the lanyard hole was a bit bigger.


 

R5 beaten by R2?
Almost incredible


----------



## ergotelis (Dec 8, 2009)

zwerky said:


> i just got my mini123 today. it's ok, for the price. i think i still prefer my ez123. i compared the two and my particular ez123 is brighter than the mini123 ...also the tint on the mini123 seems to be a bit more yellow than the ez123, which is more on the cool white side.
> 
> over all the mini123 is a good little light. i just wish the lanyard hole was a bit bigger.



This is really weird...Maybe you want to tell that ez123 is more throwy?Use a RCR123, a multimeter and check amp draw if you can. By this way we will be able to judge up to one point if all is ok.


----------



## steinstern (Dec 8, 2009)

some questions before i order.

- is the mini 123 (much) brighter on RCR123A than the mini AA on 14500? a beamshot would be great!

- can you use the mini AA for more than 5 minutes on 14500 without overheating?


i´m not sure which i should take. i have a couple of eneloops and would like it when i could use them. otherwise i will order 2 AWs 14500 / RCR123A anyway and i think the mini 123 looks better 

what shall i do?! :shrug:

(no, i only wont to buy ONE)


----------



## burntoshine (Dec 8, 2009)

i'd like to see pictures of a AA mini next to a regular quark AA and a 123 mini next to a regular quark 123. perhaps these pictures already exist, but i haven't found them.

i pre-ordered 2 neutral AA minis and have committed to a neutral 123 mini if the threshold is reached. since i don't buy cool whites, i won't be getting any minis for at least a couple of weeks.


----------



## burntoshine (Dec 8, 2009)

steinstern said:


> (no, i only wont to buy ONE)



...are you sure you're a flashaholic? i'm suspicious.


----------



## steinstern (Dec 8, 2009)

burntoshine said:


> ...are you sure you're a flashaholic? i'm suspicious.



don´t know  i just want the handiest of those lights. don´t need both, because they are basically the same (small and bright).

but to be honest: i´m a student and can´t afford both...

anyway.... how much brighter is the mini AA with 14500 (vs. nimh)​


----------



## Gatsby (Dec 8, 2009)

The mini123 is a promising light - I actually like that they ramped down the high level. The high on the EZ123 is truly a burst only mode as it gets hot really fast with such a small body and no mass. I'd rather have a lower high that I could use for extended stretches. If I need a flamethrower I'll carry a larger light for those purposes - I am willing to trade off a bit in a tiny pocket light for more utility. 

Size wise the twisty interface is the only way to go reliably but I have to admit that the twist on/off is one of my least favorite interfaces (only worse is the reverse clicky). But again it is a tradeoff for size and 3 levels - such is life but it seems well thought out.


----------



## Inliner (Dec 8, 2009)

zwerky said:


> i just got my mini123 today. it's ok, for the price. i think i still prefer my ez123. i compared the two and my particular ez123 is brighter than the mini123 ...


 
Are you running the EZ123 on Li-ion or primaries. It is only recommended for primaries and 4Sevens has stated that Li-ion will cause it to run on direct drive, thus increasing the output beyond it's ~130 lm rating AND getting a little on the warm side.


----------



## mon90ey (Dec 8, 2009)

I bought both, and bought both Lithium battery types as well. I plan to use the AA as my edc light (gonna replace my E01) and the 123 will be my night light aroud the house. The E01 will be relagated to house light backup (it certainly has earned it, after being an EDC for almost 2 years. Bought it when they first came out, and I have to say it has been the most dependable light I have ever owned, bar none!) Can't wait, but, I guess I'll have to. Ordered mine last week, so it'll probably be a while!  :hairpull:


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 8, 2009)

burntoshine said:


> i'd like to see pictures of a AA mini next to a regular quark AA and a 123 mini next to a regular quark 123. perhaps these pictures already exist, but i haven't found them.



There are some good comparison shots in  this post. One of them has a Quark AA next to the MiNi AA.

Also, the Quark 123 is very near in size to the Leatherman S3, which is shown in comparison to the MiNi 123.


----------



## EngrPaul (Dec 8, 2009)

Gatsby said:


> The mini123 is a promising light -such a small body and no mass.


 
_*No mass*_? How did they accomplish that! :huh:

That explains why it floats around my room until I put a cell in it...


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 8, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> _*No mass*_? How did they accomplish that! :huh:
> 
> That explains why it floats around my room until I put a cell in it...



I've heard that, if you throw them really hard in a total vacuum, they will eventually accelerate to the speed of light. :devil:


----------



## BVH (Dec 8, 2009)

NutSAK said:


> I've heard that, if you throw them really hard in a total vacuum, they will eventually accelerate to the speed of light. :devil:



Well, at least the light produced by them, anyway!


----------



## eddyg (Dec 8, 2009)

burntoshine said:


> i'd like to see pictures of a AA mini next to a regular quark AA and a 123 mini next to a regular quark 123. perhaps these pictures already exist, but i haven't found them.


I can accommodate your request for comparing the MiNi AA, but not the MiNi 123 since I don't have one of those. Yet. 



 



Here are some quick beamshots _with a Li-Ion 14500 cell_ (note at this exposure setting, the "Low" of the Quark MiNi and "Moonlight" and "Low" of the Quark AA don't even register.)


----------



## zwerky (Dec 8, 2009)

my ez123 is using a surefire cr123 (battery production date 2008)
my new mini123 is using the 4sevens battery it came with.

i'm still a newbie with these flashlights. so i'm not sure if i'm using all the flashlight terminology correctly. but to my naked eye, my ez123 is brighter. i had my gf doublecheck in case i was losing it and she also thinks that the mini123 isn't all that bright on the brightest setting in comparison. *shrug* i'm not sure if this is because the tint on the mini123 is a bit yellowish so it doesn't seem as bright. either way i may just gift my q-mini this season. 

i like it, but it didn't particularly wow me.


----------



## jamie.91 (Dec 8, 2009)

my 123 was shipped today, i cant wait:devil:

jamie


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 8, 2009)

Still waiting for both the aa and 123 to go off of back order status here in The GREAT WHITE NORTH(CANADA).

:mecry::mecry::mecry::mecry::mecry::mecry::mecry::mecry::mecry:


----------



## burntoshine (Dec 8, 2009)

eddyg said:


> I can accommodate your request for comparing the MiNi AA, but not the MiNi 123 since I don't have one of those. Yet.



excellent; thank you sir!

...sitting right next to my favorite light, the LF2XT. it's not much bigger than the 2XT. it's just a bit wider; maybe about 20% or 30% wider than the head of the 2XT. sweet! i can't wait for my 2 neutral mini AAs.

...those leatherman multi-tools are nice; i carry the micra in my pocket and the freestyle clipped to the inside of my pocket.


----------



## Marduke (Dec 8, 2009)

zwerky said:


> my ez123 is using a surefire cr123 (battery production date 2008)
> my new mini123 is using the 4sevens battery it came with.
> 
> i'm still a newbie with these flashlights. so i'm not sure if i'm using all the flashlight terminology correctly. but to my naked eye, my ez123 is brighter. i had my gf doublecheck in case i was losing it and she also thinks that the mini123 isn't all that bright on the brightest setting in comparison. *shrug* i'm not sure if this is because the tint on the mini123 is a bit yellowish so it doesn't seem as bright. either way i may just gift my q-mini this season.
> ...


I suspect a case of confusing lux and lumens. The EZ will almost definitely have a brighter hotspot, but the Mini will almost definitely be brighter overall, with a floodier beam.


----------



## EngrPaul (Dec 8, 2009)

Here's a comparison with locked exposures. Both are on high, running new L91 AA Primaries.












The EZ AA is a bit longer, and the reflector is deeper. Therefore, more focused. The emitter die is also smaller, resulting in a more focused spot.


----------



## compasillo (Dec 8, 2009)

Great comparison shots !

Thanks


----------



## PCC (Dec 8, 2009)

Solstice said:


> Does this light have a spring? I have the EZAA but I've been afraid to use eneloops because it seems like the twist action would crush the battery (not good for batteries that will be used over and over again). I'd like to switch to this one for the extra features and use rechargables, but just wanted some feedback to see if it was a battery crusher.


Yes, it's sprung. I'm next door to you in Daly City so PM me if you want to see it up close and in person.



steinstern said:


> some questions before i order.
> 
> - is the mini 123 (much) brighter on RCR123A than the mini AA on 14500? a beamshot would be great!
> 
> - can you use the mini AA for more than 5 minutes on 14500 without overheating?


I believe that they would be approximately the same output as the emitter and driver board are the same but the MiNi 123 has a larger reflector so its beam is more of a spot compared to the more floody MiNi AA. This little fact will make the MiNi 123 seem like it is brighter.

I think that David, of 4Sevens, said that you can probably keep a MiNi AA running a 14500 or MiNi 123 on high for about ten minutes before it becomes uncomfortable to hold.


----------



## EngrPaul (Dec 8, 2009)

Both my 123 and AA lights seem to have the same output on 3.7V. I would assume they are the same driver. I've only run them for about half a minute on high so far.


----------



## Burgess (Dec 8, 2009)

to EngrPaul --


Thank you for those great comparison photos.

Very helpful, indeed.

:goodjob:


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 9, 2009)

Excellent Job EngrPaul,

Just what I was looking for.

Another CPF Brother comes through again.:thumbsup::thumbsup:




lovecpflovecpflovecpf


----------



## steinstern (Dec 9, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> Both my 123 and AA lights seem to have the same output on 3.7V. I would assume they are the same driver. I've only run them for about half a minute on high so far.




thank you for that information!

can you describe the differences of the beams? is the 123 (much) more throwy?


----------



## EngrPaul (Dec 9, 2009)

steinstern said:


> thank you for that information!
> 
> can you describe the differences of the beams? is the 123 (much) more throwy?


 
The beams are essentially the same for the two MiNi's


----------



## Henk_Lu (Dec 9, 2009)

Thanks for those beams! :twothumbs

They clearly show the differences and why the MiNi123 will be my new EDC replacing the EZ123 neutral white. I also ordered an MiNiAA neutral white, and I guess its beam will me closer to the one of the EZ, as it will sport an XPE Q3-5A3. I like floody lights as EDCs, so the MiNi123 will probably be my best solution. A pity XPG aren't available in neutral white yet! :sigh:

For those who'd be interested in a MiNi123 with the beam pattern of the EZ123, we still need commitments for a MiNi123 neutral white (also XPE Q3-5A3) :

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=206437

The price is the same as the normal MiNi123 : 39,00$ minus CPF discount.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 9, 2009)




----------



## Tixx (Dec 9, 2009)

Henk_Lu said:


> Thanks for those beams! :twothumbs
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
How does that make up for the reflector dimensions?


----------



## madmook (Dec 9, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> Both my 123 and AA lights seem to have the same output on 3.7V. I would assume they are the same driver. I've only run them for about half a minute on high so far.


 Is the medium mode with 14500 on the MiNi AA also the same as the MiNi 123's medium mode?


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 9, 2009)

Tixx said:


> How does that make up for the reflector dimensions?



It doesn't. However, the smaller die size of the XP-E (vs. XP-G) will make a difference. The XP-E should be less floody.


----------



## regulator (Dec 9, 2009)

Thanks for the beam shots. I always thought the spill of the EZAA was lacking compared to other small lights. To me it fell short in a lot of areas. The main (first) output stage is too low for the level which will be used most often for task use - and the high level drains batteries too fast to use often.

I think the MiniAA beam will be great for this light - can't wait to receive mine. It is looking to be a great EDC.


----------



## IceRat (Dec 9, 2009)

I just got my both Mini's (123 and AA) today and just got to check them out.

They are perfect! I like! :thumbsup:

The AA beams and lower two levels are really close to the Maratac light. The high is brighter on the Mini. 

The 123 is just so cool, it is short, stumpy, and bright!! This is the light for people who like a tail standing light. The fit and finish is perfect, I even looked at it with a magnifier. Great job 4sevens!

It is truly nice to get something you have been waiting for and not be disappointed.


----------



## brianch (Dec 9, 2009)

Lightcrazycanuck said:


> Still waiting for both the aa and 123 to go off of back order status here in The GREAT WHITE NORTH(CANADA).
> 
> :mecry::mecry::mecry::mecry::mecry::mecry::mecry::mecry::mecry:


where did you purchase it if you don't mind me asking? i'm also thinking about this light.. god.. what light am i not thinking about..


----------



## Knife Boy (Dec 9, 2009)

Got notification that my Mini 123 shipped on the 8th, so I hope to have it in a couple days. My experience with 4 Sevens has always been very speedy delivery once things ship out. Really looking forward to this little light. Thanks everyone for sharing your thoughts so far.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 9, 2009)

brianch said:


> where did you purchase it if you don't mind me asking? i'm also thinking about this light.. god.. what light am i not thinking about..


 
I purchased both the AA and 123 from 4sevens Canadian website.


----------



## steinstern (Dec 10, 2009)

just orderd the mini AA, two protected AW 14500 and the Ultrafire 139 Charger.

some questions about the 14500 use:

i have to keep them between 4,2 - 3,5 V, right? and the best is to charge it at around 3,8V?!
That means i always have to check the voltage?
isn´t there any more comfortable way?
and how big is the damage if i (accidently) use them untill the PCB kicks in?
why dont they use PCBs that kick in before the cells lifecycle gets shortend?!?

becaus i don´t think its very nice to edc a little torch AND a multimeter


----------



## compasillo (Dec 10, 2009)

If you get a protected 14500 (the best option to choose) don't have to worry about voltage. The battery will stop charging at 4.2v and stop draining out at 2.8v (that's the typical working range).
If you use unprotected batteries you have to be carefull to not discharge them below 2.8v. 
Normally, the charger will stop automatically when the battery reaches 4.2v
For more reliable info look for a special threads about batteries


----------



## steinstern (Dec 10, 2009)

yeah, the aw 14500 are protected, but i thought you should never let it run down to 2.8 volt if possible!? (according to "those special threds")

never used li-ion in flashlights before. really want to know..


----------



## compasillo (Dec 10, 2009)

You don't have to worry about the voltage drop. The protection circuit just cuts off the battery current and prevents overdischarging. That's all. If you use the battery in a flashlight with a regulated circuit probably you'll notice a low battery charge when the high mode is not available. If the flashlight is not regulated you'll see the output decreasing as battery is discharging and then at 2.8v stops working. That's the moment to recharge it.
Get a quality charger and batteries and enjoy. However, be carefull with Li-Ion batteries and always use them with common sense.

Once again I suggest you take a look at the specific threads since I think this questions are off topic.


----------



## Tixx (Dec 10, 2009)

Got both yesterday.

Nice lights. Light weight. Easy pocket carry. Great UI. Bright!

AA is really green, even compared to my mini123. Mini123 battery tube thread end looks like someone chewed on it and the HAIII is coming off and has burs.


----------



## compasillo (Dec 10, 2009)

That's annoying to hear so much about the greenish tint on the Qmini AA... (the tint not to hear about)
I hope to be lucky on my both ordered (or one at least).
I only have received an email today from 4Sevens asking me to be patient as they're working on shipping out the pre-orders as quick as they can :sigh:


----------



## Henk_Lu (Dec 10, 2009)

steinstern said:


> yeah, the aw 14500 are protected, but i thought you should never let it run down to 2.8 volt if possible!? (according to "those special threds")
> 
> never used li-ion in flashlights before. really want to know..



It is OT and I suggest you have a look at the links in the sticky of the battery section. I made myself lots of researches as I'm starting with li-ion.

I reply, because it can never be said enough for all newbies : Compasillo isn't exactly right unfortunately. As Marduke wrote in another thread, the protection of the cell is to be considered like the airbag in a car : It's good to have it in case you need it, but it's not there for normal use. In fact, it isn't really to save the battery, but to save the user from getting hurt by a venting and exploding cell.

Li-Ion shouldn't be discharged under 3,5 Volt under normal conditions. They don't dislike frequent charging however. If you have a voltmeter (recommended), you may test at home how long you can normally use your MiNi until you reach about 3,6 Volt and top up your cells as often as needed, more often if you aren't sure. If you have a good charger like the Pila (recommended) or a newer AW-139 (some older models are known to slightly overcharge to 4,25 - 4,35 Volt), you don't have to worry about overcharging, the charger top cells offat 4,20 or just below. 3,8 Volt is not enough, that's 30% of the capacity, you may consider recharging at this level.

Have fun with your MiNi and stay safe! :wave:


----------



## run4jc (Dec 10, 2009)

Received my mini 123 yesterday - talk about your impulse purchases! Still, it is now hanging on my keyring and will always be with me. 
The spot is larger and the light is more floody overall. I like.


----------



## compasillo (Dec 10, 2009)

Henk_Lu

Thank you for your info/advise. However, let's keep the discussion on batteries/chargers out of this thread


----------



## Marduke (Dec 10, 2009)

compasillo said:


> You don't have to worry about the voltage drop. The protection circuit just cuts off the battery current and prevents overdischarging. That's all. If you use the battery in a flashlight with a regulated circuit probably you'll notice a low battery charge when the high mode is not available. If the flashlight is not regulated you'll see the output decreasing as battery is discharging and then at 2.8v stops working. That's the moment to recharge it.



The protection circuit is there to protect you (the user), not the battery. If you routinely let the protection circuit kick in and shut off the cell for you, you WILL permanently damage the cell. You should recharge BEFORE you engage the protection circuit.

The same should really go for charging too. Many of the cheap chargers rely on the overvoltage protection circuit to kick in and terminate charge. But if you want optimal battery life, you will use a charger that terminates <4.2v without having to engage the protection circuit. Charging to ~4.1-4.15v drastically increases cell life.


----------



## compasillo (Dec 10, 2009)

Marduke said:


> The protection circuit is there to protect you (the user), not the battery. If you routinely let the protection circuit kick in and shut off the cell for you, you WILL permanently damage the cell. You should recharge BEFORE you engage the protection circuit.
> 
> The same should really go for charging too. Many of the cheap chargers rely on the overvoltage protection circuit to kick in and terminate charge. But if you want optimal battery life, you will use a charger that terminates <4.2v without having to engage the protection circuit. Charging to ~4.1-4.15v drastically increases cell life.




OK, seems we definetely changed the topic. 
There's a lot of arguments regarding Li-Ion batteries and we may discuss on every point any poster said. In fact there are so many different brands and data sheets that could be a bit irrealistic to give a valid general data, IMO.

The protection circuit is either to prevent overdischarging and subsequently an unrecoverable loss of the battery chemistry, thus make it unrechargeable anymore, and overcharging, thus is avoiding an explosion or leaking. These are purely the facts, without any other consideration. The results of an overdischarge have nothing to do with your personal security. The battery ends up unusable. That's all. Overcharging is dangerous but I think most of the chargers (even the cheaper) have a standard protection feature to prevent this.

I didn't advise to let *routinely* the cell drop down to the cut off voltage (I don't do it but would like to know how long a battery will last if you do it though). 
I only pointed out if you do it nothing's gonna happen either you or your battery. That's all. My intention to this guy was: be cautious but don't fear. It ain't gonna blow up unless you do a nonsense.
In fact, my final advise was to use the common sense and have a look at specific threads.

BTW, my friend Henk_Lu, don't you think to compare the use of the protection PCB with an airbag is a bit out of proportion? 

I've been intensively using Li-Ion cells for the last 3-4 years along with a bunch of chargers and never had a problem, but that's only my experience. 

And now guys can we get back to the actual topic? 
The waiting for my Qminis AA is killing me! and they ever been shipped out yet :sigh:


----------



## IceRat (Dec 10, 2009)

Here are some picture of my current favorite lights 

The Mini123(stumpy), MiniAA, Quark123, EZAA, Maratac, QuarkAA body


----------



## IceRat (Dec 10, 2009)

I was comparing beam shots between the MiniAA and the EZAA last night on Max output. I was holding the Mini closer to the wall so the spill was about the same size as the EZ. Both beams appeared to have the same size spill and spot. The Mini was noticably quite brighter. Is this a fair way to compare output with two different lights with different output radius? (I hope explained it well enough)

I decided I like the Mini's levels better, the medium level is nice and bright and will be used most often.

EZ vs MiniAA vs Maratac


----------



## compasillo (Dec 10, 2009)

Nice pics !
The more I look at the mini AA the more I like it, though I'm afraid I'll get the 123 also... OMG what a pain to support this adiction


----------



## compasillo (Dec 10, 2009)

IceRat said:


> the medium level is nice and bright and will be used most often.



So that's why I (and many others) prefer M-L-H


----------



## IceRat (Dec 10, 2009)

compasillo said:


> So that's why I (and many others) prefer M-L-H


 
For me it is yes and no, I usually have a light on my night stand and prefer one with low first and use it often. I would prefer med first for everything else. It is much easier to grab a light and get low first when I am half-awake in the dark. I never put the Maratac on the night stand. I mostly had the QuarkAA there. I am not a big "low low level" fan but I use it when I have it .


----------



## IceRat (Dec 10, 2009)

compasillo said:


> Nice pics !
> The more I look at the mini AA the more I like it, though I'm afraid I'll get the 123 also... OMG what a pain to support this adiction


 
The Mini123 is just cool! I am so glad I got both :naughty: I didn't get it to use for any specific reason, I have a lot of rechargable AA's, but it is so cool!


----------



## Nitroz (Dec 10, 2009)

I used my M123 last night walking the dogs. I know this little monster pushes out some serious light for a tiny lsucker, I am very happy. Thanks David!

Deal of the year IMO.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 10, 2009)

Keep the info coming guys,this is the only thing I have untill my AA and 123 show up.:mecry::mecry:


lovecpflovecpflovecpf


----------



## dealgrabber2002 (Dec 10, 2009)

I remembered David said that he tried to make it as difficult as possibe for anyone to open the head and try to borrow his techonolgy... how hard is it to do a emitter swap to maybe a XP-E R2 (pure white) or other pure white emitters?

I asked this because many are worried about getting a green tint.

I used to care, but it don't bother me anymore because I been using my EO1 for 1 yr. already. I figured if I really need a light for emergency (which is why I purchased the AA)... I could careless if it's blue, green, or pink.


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 10, 2009)

Thanks for the pics IceRat! :twothumbs


----------



## compasillo (Dec 10, 2009)

IceRat said:


> For me it is yes and no, I usually have a light on my night stand and prefer one with low first and use it often. .



The same for me so I keep a few very dim flashlights in my night stand but the rest of the time I mostly use to need Mid mode.


----------



## USACelt (Dec 10, 2009)

Just got my mini123. whooohoo:twothumbs
The tint is s lightly greenish, but doesnt effect use.
It's so light. Makes my Nitecore PD EX10 I was carrying feel like a brick.
I can't wait til dark to play.


----------



## regulator (Dec 10, 2009)

Just received my MiniAA. It is about as pefect as a small AA light needs to be. I think the ouput levels are well chosen and I like them. The low works well in dark situations, medium will be used most and puts out plenty of light and has still has great runtime, and high is bright enough without worring that the battery is being drained too fast. I can see using the high more often because of this. I know that rechargables should eliminate the worry of a fast draining output level but I typically do not carry spare cells with me for my edc. 

Since the light is very efficient, I may just end up using primary lithium AA's due to thier light weight and high energy capacity. With 8 packs being relatively cheap and available, this light may not need rechargables! One less thing to worry about. On the other hand - My AW 14500's ( I believe mine are the older flat top ones) fit and work well in this light and offer some extra punch when needed. 

The wide hotspot works well for a small light.


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 10, 2009)

This is one of those lights that just is so cool I had to order another one. Even though I'm more of a clicky than twisty fan this light is so smooth in twist action and even works in the push button mode easy that you can do with twisties that are right on the edge of twisting on. Hopefully I don't get in trouble for posting these 2 pics here I put in the marketplace thread. Can you tell I'm excited about this light 

As I was taking some pics this ladybug presented itself. She said it's cute as a bug and had to check it out too  
And yes that's a real ladybug which may further give you a perspective of how small this light is.






And one for a familiar size comparison:


----------



## eljuez (Dec 10, 2009)

Just received mine and here's some quick thoughts. Given how bright it is on high, a terrific EDC light. Others may be smaller, but with the 123 format you're getting good runtimes and power in convienent package. It's very easy to operate one handed. It's nice to have the hidden features if you want them, without having to work around them if you don't. With such a low price you get a lot for your money. A winner! For those of you who haven't received a shipping notice, there's still hope. Mine was shown as back-ordered, but it arrived without any notification.:twothumbs


----------



## Beamhead (Dec 10, 2009)

eljuez said:


> Mine was shown as back-ordered, but it arrived without any notification.:twothumbs


Cool, I hope thats the case with mine.


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 10, 2009)

When I checked 4Sevens web site a day or two ago mine also said it would ship on 12/16 but it arrived today - also without USPS saying it was even at the local P.O. (which sometimes happens and sometimes not when it's got D.C.). Either way I'll bet we've all got them by Christmas if your orders in by now. :thumbsup:


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 10, 2009)

My lights have finally been shipped.


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 10, 2009)

For those who have been around a while you may know the reputation of the Surefire L4 and it's powerful 'wall of light' which it got by using a Luxeon V (much more expensive than the Lux III's - sort of like the difference between a Seoul P4 or Cree XR-E and a P7 or MC-E). I just put my L4 next to the Quark Mini 123. They both have a very similar wall of light at the 25 foot or so I was comparing them (on a white wall) except the Mini is BRIGHTER! And of course no donut hole like many L4's had. And it is brighter by a noticeable amount and the L4 was never any slouch. I may try to get some beam shots tomorrow.


----------



## koolranch (Dec 10, 2009)

Just got the email today!!! They are on the way! :twothumbs


----------



## windstrings (Dec 10, 2009)

Just got my Quark MiNi 123!
The main pocket light I have to compare it to is the Nitecore EZ123.

While I love the attractive looks of the Nitecore's gold band, I'm sorry but the Quark MiNi 123 simply outperforms it.

First of all let me say I'm using RCR123 rechargables in both lights.

The Quark is shorter and a tad fatter.... the reflector is fatter too.

Until I got this little lite, the nitecore was the brightest small light I've ever had.

1. The quark has 3 levels... on low, its dimmer than the nitecore on it lowest setting "has two settings"
2. the quark on medium is considerably brighter than the nitecore on low.
3. The quark on high is brighter than the nitecore on high.
Let me explain........

While the actual throw of both is very close.. I'm gonna have to give a very slight upper hand to the quark for pure distance throw... but very close.

Where the quark "really" excells is the actual square footage of illuminated area covered.... I'm gonna estimate it to be "twice" the area covered of the nitecore.

The beam is bigger.

While the nitecore looks like a pocket light with lots of throw in a nice tight beam.... the Quark has the same brightness and throw but the beam is easily twice the size if not more.

It covers more of the ground and actually looks like a full handsized light when estimated from looking at the beam alone.

That my impression... .I definitely recommend it.. the price is very good.
I love the twist type lights for small pocket lights that will be attached to keys as its too easy to accidentally push a button on as it presses and bashes into your keys while in your pocket as you sit, squat or bang around into things.

Its quite impressive what they have done with such a small package!

I got mine from 4sevens.com.. I recommend a claw clip they sell to have a quick connect/disconnect to your keys..... makes life very handy in the real world.


----------



## BVH (Dec 10, 2009)

Ahhh, so you sold your BarnBurner for a Mini 123!


----------



## windstrings (Dec 10, 2009)

BVH said:


> Ahhh, so you sold your BarnBurner for a Mini 123!




LOL!.... funny how that works!
Actually I got the Mule, but its so bright I really don't use it!.... LOL!


----------



## applevision (Dec 10, 2009)

I'm a little overwhelmed right now... just got home to see 2 packages from 4sevens: my black and blue Preon kits and my MiNi 123! 

Oh heaven!

So the MiNi 123 is now my favorite light. Period. I just took off my beloved IlluminaTi from the keychain and put it on. I don't ever want to be without it again! The beam is SO bright on high and so perfect on medium and so lovely on low... Mine is creamy white (but I can see how the tendency is towards green and can imagine that some could be greener) and I am in love. Comparing it with my favorite beams, it just has the smoothest, loveliest beam I've seen! The threads are so smooth it's ALMOST too smooth... almost. (I have the tiniest fear that it will unscrew in my pocket or activate in my pocket, but I think it will be fine). 

Build quality is rock-solid.

I am in love.

I put my thoughts on the Preons (which I am also really digging!) here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3195292&postcount=72

4sevens... thank you for this masterpiece!

Fellas, what a time to be a flashaholic!!!!!!!


----------



## HarveyRich (Dec 11, 2009)

> Originally posted by EngrPaul:
> Both my 123 and AA lights seem to have the same output on 3.7V. I would assume they are the same driver. I've only run them for about half a minute on high so far.


 
Just received my MiNi 123. Tested it using AW protected RCR123 (3.7v). It clicked off with the battery at 3.1v at 30 mins on high. Using primaries, the instructions indicated that it should stay on for 1.2 hr. The run time on high seemed somewhat short to me. Anyone else test theirs either on primaries or RCR123? 

The AW can be recharged after the PCB circuit kicks in, at least. I haven't had such luck with Ultrafire or Trustfire. They seem to kick off at a lower voltage too. I don't know what others have used to kick-start their Ultra or Trustfire batteries after the protection kicks in, but if one can't reuse them, they are useless as protection except to keep the battery from venting and exploding.


----------



## compasillo (Dec 11, 2009)

Finally I got my 2 Qmini AA's in the mail...

But I couldn't resist to your mini 123 praises so I've just ordered one (yes, only one), plus a black Preon kit (OMG I'm gonna be broken before Xmas!)


----------



## brianch (Dec 11, 2009)

beamshots or :whoopin:, I want mini 123 beamshots!


----------



## SuperTrouper (Dec 11, 2009)

brianch said:


> beamshots or :whoopin:, I want mini 123 beamshots!



Don't we all!!


----------



## windstrings (Dec 11, 2009)

HarveyRich said:


> Just received my MiNi 123. Tested it using AW protected RCR123 (3.7v). It clicked off with the battery at 3.1v at 30 mins on high. Using primaries, the instructions indicated that it should stay on for 1.2 hr. The run time on high seemed somewhat short to me. Anyone else test theirs either on primaries or RCR123?



I'm really not surprised... there has to be twice the total lumens going out the front as my Nitecore EZ 123


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 11, 2009)

We need more pics of the tiny 123!


----------



## JimF (Dec 11, 2009)

Got mine yesterday-AA. I am impressed with the size and weight. It isn't much bigger than a AA battery and is very bright. I need more time to eval but first impression is GOOD!!! 
Jim


----------



## windstrings (Dec 11, 2009)

NutSAK said:


> We need more pics of the tiny 123!




Its a cute little peckerwood...... must be a Freudian slip after seeing your name!


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 11, 2009)

HarveyRich said:


> Just received my MiNi 123. Tested it using AW protected RCR123 (3.7v). It clicked off with the battery at 3.1v at 30 mins on high. Using primaries, the instructions indicated that it should stay on for 1.2 hr. The run time on high seemed somewhat short to me.



30 minutes seems about right for 189 lumens on RCR123, considering this is a PWM regulated circuit.

The Quark 123 runs about 30 mins. on RCR123 at a slightly higher output, but it runs on a more efficient, current-regulated circuit.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 11, 2009)

NutSAK said:


> 30 minutes seems about right for 189 lumens on RCR123, considering this is a PWM regulated circuit.
> 
> The Quark 123 runs about 30 mins. on RCR123 at a slightly higher output, but it runs on a more efficient, current-regulated circuit.



Considering the medium mode is plenty bright for most jobs.. its no big deal to me.. thats why I use RCR's... I just change them out frequently when I have any use at all on them so I know I'm always walking around with a fresh battery... if I know the job will be long and nasty.. just use a lower mode.

But many of these lights you have to throw a ton of beamshots up and have all the experts look at them sideways to tell the differences.. not so with this... it will be quite obvious to your 5 year old!

so so much brighter.. just lots more light!


----------



## Nitroz (Dec 11, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> For those who have been around a while you may know the reputation of the Surefire L4 and it's powerful 'wall of light' which it got by using a Luxeon V (much more expensive than the Lux III's - sort of like the difference between a Seoul P4 or Cree XR-E and a P7 or MC-E). I just put my L4 next to the Quark Mini 123. They both have a very similar wall of light at the 25 foot or so I was comparing them (on a white wall) except the Mini is BRIGHTER! And of course no donut hole like many L4's had. And it is brighter by a noticeable amount and the L4 was never any slouch. I may try to get some beam shots tomorrow.



Great observation! IMO, this light is in the medium or so throw department without the narrow intense spot. To me this light is amazing and the output is a medium distant beam that lights up everything in it's path. 

My son came out of the house with it one night, and I had to tell him to quit blinding me even though he was not shining it directly at me, this was about 75'. I did not know that this was the Mini123, I thought it was one of my other lights.

I'll post up some pictures of my 47 firecracker soon.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 11, 2009)

Nitroz said:


> My son came out of the house with it one night, and I had to tell him to quit blinding me even though he was not shining it directly at me, this was about 75'. I did not know that this was the Mini123, I thought it was one of my other lights.




The cool thing about that story is that your eyeball is receiving only a tiny spot of that total light "like a light meter".. since we know it covers a much larger area, that goes to show you how much light its truly putting out!


----------



## passive101 (Dec 11, 2009)

Is the 123 mini and AA mini available in neutral LED?


----------



## windstrings (Dec 11, 2009)

passive101 said:


> Is the 123 mini and AA mini available in neutral LED?



The color was very close to the Nitecore I had... maybe the nitecore a teeny bit warmer.. but I think its perfect.


----------



## Link Archer VI (Dec 11, 2009)

There is a limited run of neutral AA minis here:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=203520
And possibly neutral 123 minis here:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=206437


----------



## Tremendo (Dec 11, 2009)

That's a great point that with the larger spill, it can be blinding even at sharp angles. I've already experienced that as well. The Mini AA has so many good points going for it. I will say it feel like I have nothing in my pocket EDC'ing the Mini AA. For EDC I went from a small 1xRCR123 (FF3), to a medium sized 1xAA (NDI) to a larger 1xAA (Quark Ti AA Tactical), now the Mini AA, the lightest of all.

Glad to see I'm not the only who bought 4.


----------



## lightsandknives (Dec 11, 2009)

passive101 said:


> Is the 123 mini and AA mini available in neutral LED?



The AA is available to pre-order now. Here's a thread about it.


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 11, 2009)

The mini just on medium I believe here:







Another admirer of the Mini:


----------



## shaneotool (Dec 11, 2009)

I've got a tree line about 30 yards behind my house. The Mini 123 on high lights it up better than my 2D Rebel maglight. Very impressive light.


----------



## applevision (Dec 11, 2009)

_Clarification: I have the MiNi 123 version!_

I am *so* with the sentiment here!

I will try to post beamshots tonight as well, but this is the first light in recent memory that I actually said "wow" outloud when turning it on! _[Others in that group for me include the Modamag Drake and the EagleTac M2CX4.]_

It is also the ONLY light in my collection where I honestly feel that medium is perfect because BRIGHT IS TOO MUCH.

Let me repeat that and make sure it is in the proper context, because, you see, I am a lumenophile and a luxwhore. I love light! And I am really saying that, somehow, the bright is TOO MUCH. Well, almost. I mean, I am in *•.•:*¨¨*:•♥*LOVE*♥•:*¨¨*:•.•* with it (!:kiss::twothumbs:naughty:!) but feel GOOD about staying at medium.

This has never happened to me. Ever. Not with the Fenix TK11 when it first came out, certainly not with my somewhat disappointing Pilot Whale with its highly-touted Ostar emitter... 

I am beaming with delight at this little guy. I am showing everyone I know (something I have also not done) and buying them as gifts now. 

This is a remarkable light, an inflection point of great little lights.

What's crazy? The small light realm is just starting to heat up with competition... so it will only get better. It is my daily mantra now: what a great time to be a flashaholic!


----------



## Nitroz (Dec 11, 2009)

windstrings said:


> The cool thing about that story is that your eyeball is receiving only a tiny spot of that total light "like a light meter".. since we know it covers a much larger area, that goes to show you how much light its truly putting out!



+1 Another thing I love is the long cord that comes with it for neck carry, this thing is light to me. Another great gift in the box I did not expect, especially for this price point.:thumbsup:


----------



## LightWalker (Dec 11, 2009)

Can someone post a photo of the neck lanyard?


----------



## da.gee (Dec 11, 2009)

This light is a winner. I just received the AA version. Small, good levels and spaced well, easy one hand operation, priced right. This is the light I will recommend to new users wanting a general use EDC for their pocket.


----------



## Nitroz (Dec 11, 2009)

LightWalker said:


> Can someone post a photo of the neck lanyard?



Ask and you shall receive. Mine measures 21 1/2 inches ior 54cm. Quick shot with a phone camera, much better photos later.

My mother-in-law wants a mini after seeing mine.


----------



## Ilikeshinythings (Dec 11, 2009)

HarveyRich said:


> Just received my MiNi 123. Tested it using AW protected RCR123 (3.7v). It clicked off with the battery at 3.1v at 30 mins on high. Using primaries, the instructions indicated that it should stay on for 1.2 hr. The run time on high seemed somewhat short to me. Anyone else test theirs either on primaries or RCR123?
> 
> The AW can be recharged after the PCB circuit kicks in, at least. I haven't had such luck with Ultrafire or Trustfire. They seem to kick off at a lower voltage too. I don't know what others have used to kick-start their Ultra or Trustfire batteries after the protection kicks in, but if one can't reuse them, they are useless as protection except to keep the battery from venting and exploding.



I'm no expert but in some of my travles I've noticed rechargeable batteries don't seem to hold as much juice as primaries?


----------



## jonnyfgroove (Dec 11, 2009)

da.gee said:


> This light is a winner. I just received the AA version. Small, good levels and spaced well, easy one hand operation, priced right. This is the light I will recommend to new users wanting a general use EDC for their pocket.



+1 on that.


----------



## compasillo (Dec 11, 2009)

@Applevision

Are you talking about the 123 or the AA? (you missed to say it )


----------



## HKJ (Dec 11, 2009)

Ilikeshinythings said:


> I'm no expert but in some of my travles I've noticed rechargeable batteries don't seem to hold as much juice as primaries?



That varies, alkaline has up to 3000mAh, but only at very low load, NiMH has 2000-2700mAh and the high capacity NiMH can only hold that capacity for a short time.

I.e. with a high power load that is expect to empty the batteries in less than a week, 2700 mAh batteries are the best.

With a high power load, that will empty the batteries in a few months, the 2000 mAh precharged NiMH batteries are best.

With low power loads alkaline batteries will last the longest time.

A high power load is a load that will drain the batteries in less than 10 hours when constant on.


----------



## LightWalker (Dec 11, 2009)

Nitroz said:


> Ask and you shall receive. Mine measures 21 1/2 inches ior 54cm. Quick shot with a phone camera, much better photos later.
> 
> My mother-in-law wants a mini after seeing mine.


 
Thanks, it is pretty long but that can be fixed.  I think I should hide mine when I get it from all the women I know because they will probably want it. :duh2:


----------



## smokelaw1 (Dec 11, 2009)

Just got a call from my wife that I got "another package." Woohoo!


----------



## Frank_Zuccarini (Dec 11, 2009)

Received my Mini-123 today, and I just want to add that I find it to be absolutely wonderful in terms of style, finish and output. I love it.

Frank


----------



## Nitroz (Dec 11, 2009)

LightWalker said:


> Thanks, it is pretty long but that can be fixed.  I think I should hide mine when I get it from all the women I know because they will probably want it. :duh2:



Lol! It has a button on it that allows one to adjust the tightness and desired circumference. Does that make since?


----------



## Nitroz (Dec 11, 2009)

My M123 has a nice vanilla/slight green tint to it which I think is excellent! I could not have asked for a better tint. Thank God it's not blue tinted.


----------



## LightWalker (Dec 11, 2009)

Nitroz said:


> Lol! It has a button on it that allows one to adjust the tightness and desired circumference. Does that make since?


 
Yes


----------



## Nitroz (Dec 11, 2009)

Wow! I just noticed the lanyard has two adjustable buttons on it. COOL!


----------



## windstrings (Dec 11, 2009)

applevision said:


> I am *so* with the sentiment here!
> 
> I will try to post beamshots tonight as well, but this is the first light in recent memory that I actually said "wow" outloud when turning it on! _[Others in that group for me include the Modamag Drake and the EagleTac M2CX4.]_
> 
> ...



I"m sorry you dont like it!


----------



## windstrings (Dec 11, 2009)

Ilikeshinythings said:


> I'm no expert but in some of my travles I've noticed rechargeable batteries don't seem to hold as much juice as primaries?



They dont... but I never get too far from my charger so I might as well have a million ah battery.... I dont like buying batteries and I dont like not knowing how much of a charge I have left.

With primaries... you want to run them down so you dont waste them, but that means you never know when your going to run out.

Its either buy batteries and carry spares, or run RCRs.

Besides RCRs usually give brighter performance. If it didnt have a medium and low mode, I would be more nervous.


----------



## Norm (Dec 11, 2009)

HarveyRich said:


> Just received my MiNi 123. Tested it using AW protected RCR123 (3.7v). It clicked off with the battery at 3.1v at 30 mins on high. Using primaries, the instructions indicated that it should stay on for 1.2 hr. The run time on high seemed somewhat short to me. Anyone else test theirs either on primaries or RCR123?
> 
> The AW can be recharged after the PCB circuit kicks in, at least. I haven't had such luck with Ultrafire or Trustfire. They seem to kick off at a lower voltage too. I don't know what others have used to kick-start their Ultra or Trustfire batteries after the protection kicks in, but if one can't reuse them, they are useless as protection except to keep the battery from venting and exploding.


Most rechargeables will have less than half the capacity of a good primary battery.

You shouldn't run you light until the protection circuit kicks in, a LIion cell is flat at 3.6Volts your shortening the life of the cell by running it down untill the protection kicks in.
The protection can be reset by placing it in your charger for a couple of seconds
Norm.


----------



## brianch (Dec 11, 2009)

why are there no beamshots yet :ironic::shrug::green::thinking::mecry:


----------



## dandism (Dec 11, 2009)

Anyone have a side by side comparison with the iTP variants (A1, A2)?


----------



## HarveyRich (Dec 11, 2009)

> Originally posted by Norm:
> You shouldn't run you light until the protection circuit kicks in, a LIion cell is flat at 3.6Volts your shortening the life of the cell by running it down untill the protection kicks in.
> The protection can be reset by placing it in your charger for a couple of seconds


Yes, I know it shortens the life. I was just doing a run time test on high until the protection circuit kicked in. There's an entire thread which asks how to reset your pcb protected battery:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/245032

One poster mentioned that AW batteries have no problems in chargers after they are triggered. I believe it is because they go off at 3.1v. The Ultrafire and Trustfire gray protected batteries seem to go lower, but I've not had luck overcoming the protection circuit the couple of times I've triggered them. The AW batteries can just be put back into a charger and recharged, no problem.


----------



## eddyg (Dec 11, 2009)

brianch said:


> why are there no beamshots yet


I posted some back on page 1, in post #28.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 11, 2009)

eddyg said:


> I posted some back on page 1, in post #28.




crap.. theres a turbo mode too?... how do you access that with the 123?


----------



## dealgrabber2002 (Dec 11, 2009)

windstrings said:


> crap.. theres a turbo mode too?... how do you access that with the 123?


 
I believed the "turbo" mode is on the Quark AA not the Quark MiNi AA.


----------



## eddyg (Dec 11, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I believed the "turbo" mode is on the Quark AA not the Quark MiNi AA.


Correct. My comparison photos are of a MiNi AA and a Quark Ti AA (same emitter). Sorry for any confusion. I wanted to show the highest output of each 
light.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 11, 2009)




----------



## windstrings (Dec 11, 2009)

Thats ok.. I honestly don't need it any brighter.. it already surpassed my expectations.


----------



## chibato (Dec 11, 2009)

Beam Shots! Beam Shots! Beam Shots!


----------



## dealgrabber2002 (Dec 11, 2009)

How come there is no reviews yet? 

Hey selfbuilt, where u at?


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 11, 2009)

Ok Ok just was waiting for the dark 

First is a control shot - everything shot at f5.6 and 1/15 sec. manual mode and camera at 24 feet from the white wall (still under construction in this room but it has a coat of very white paint) :






Next is the former title winner of "Wall of light" the Surefire L4:






This is the new winner of "Wall of light" Quark Mini 123"






And finally a shot of the Quark Mini bounced off the ceiling but still from behind the camera a few inches just to show how much it lights up the formerly totally dark room:





You can see the Surefire L4 with it's 2 x CR123 batteries powering a Luxeon V (at the time this came out it was by far the highest power LED on the market) has a fairly similar hot spot size - close to the same beam pattern as the new Quark Mini although I believe the Mini is even smoother especially at closer distances where many L4's suffered a donut hole. But the Quark clearly blows the L4 away is sheer brightness. Amazing.
I may get the chance to compare against some other lights here tonight also.


----------



## Nitroz (Dec 11, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> Ok Ok just was waiting for the dark
> 
> First is a control shot - everything shot at f5.6 and 1/15 sec. manual mode and camera at 24 feet from the white wall (still under construction in this room but it has a coat of very white paint) :
> 
> ...




Great shots! That 3rd one shows exactly why you get blinded by the little rocket, the spill is intense.


I said this once and just have to say it again. This little light is so smooth from spot to spill and is the most useful light in my aresenal. It's like having the MC-E beam profile with much less power consumed.

Cree and 47 nailed it with this LED and flashlight, IMO.


----------



## new-b (Dec 11, 2009)

Hey,

I pretty new to flashlights. I have a surefire e2e, a fenix T1, and I just got my mini123. All I can say is OH MY GOD! I didn't think this kind of light was even possible. It makes my surefire look dark. I keep going into a dark closet and turning it on and shaking my head in amazement! Not much else to say but WOW!

I am getting an Aeon in a day or two...it will be interesting to see how that compares.

Thanks for all the help and knowledge!
Josh Out


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 11, 2009)

As promised a few more comparisons: 

Ra clicky 140 on burst mode:






Nitecore Smart PD EX10 with a Q5 bin Cree on high:






LF2XT neutral tint model on high:






LF3XT on high:






Quark Titanium 123 XP-G on turbo:






Not intended to burst any bubbles as this is no $39 light. But I've been promising beam shots of this one for a long time. This is another single cell RCR123 light that not even the Quark Mini can touch in terms of brightness - it's a custom HDS in the Military body (looks just like a Novatac) Darkzero mod single RCR123 based P7 on high (guestimating 600 Lumens per darkzero) and requires an AW IMR cell to safely drive to this level:


----------



## brianch (Dec 11, 2009)

:twothumbs this light is awesome. It's so small and powerfullovecpf


----------



## Nake (Dec 11, 2009)

I put one of the newer AA NiZN batteries in mine and saw about a 25% increase in output compared to a NiMH. Nice if more output is desired without the blast of a 14500.


----------



## strinq (Dec 11, 2009)

Must...stop...visiting...cpf...


----------



## brianch (Dec 11, 2009)

strinq said:


> Must...stop...visiting...cpf...


 i feel ya. luckily this flashlight is priced properly


----------



## windstrings (Dec 11, 2009)

brianch said:


> i feel ya. luckily this flashlight is priced properly



Yea.. small enough to be stocking stuffers!... even for your kids!... the wife needs one too in case she gets a flat.. the kids need one to blind the dog! 
Grandma needs one too... Tis the season!... everybody gets one!


----------



## brianch (Dec 11, 2009)

windstrings said:


> Yea.. small enough to be stocking stuffers!... even for your kids!... the wife needs one too in case she gets a flat.. the kids need one to blind the dog!
> Grandma needs one too... Tis the season!... everybody gets one!


----------



## jabe1 (Dec 11, 2009)

Can someone post beamshots of the AA and 123 together?


----------



## Mikellen (Dec 11, 2009)

windstrings said:


> Yea.. small enough to be stocking stuffers!... even for your kids!... the wife needs one too in case she gets a flat.. the kids need one to blind the dog!
> Grandma needs one too... Tis the season!... everybody gets one!


 
Please don't let the kids blind the dog.:mecry:


----------



## edc3 (Dec 11, 2009)

passive101 said:


> Is the 123 mini and AA mini available in neutral LED?



http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=207647


----------



## AFAustin (Dec 11, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> Next is the former title winner of "Wall of light" the Surefire L4:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



matrixshaman,

As an "old guy" around here who had---and loved---an L4 for its great "wall of light", thanks for the comparison. I see a Quark Mini in my future....


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 11, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> matrixshaman,
> 
> As an "old guy" around here who had---and loved---an L4 for its great "wall of light", thanks for the comparison. I see a Quark Mini in my future....



They are quite a fun light and at a fraction the cost of the L4. The only thing my L4 would win out at now is as a kubaton  I will say that to my eyes it didn't look like it was as big of a difference in brightness as the pictures show but all pics were on manual mode at the same setting so that's at least how the camera sees it. I also didn't think my Quark Titanium is as noticeably green as the pic shows so my white balance may be off a bit. But my Quark Mini is definitely the whiter between those 2 Quarks.


----------



## heathen (Dec 11, 2009)

Anybody got a shot of a mini123 next to an old school Fenix P1 that they wouldn't mind posting? Thanks in advance!:twothumbs


----------



## Stress_Test (Dec 11, 2009)

Dang you guys. I was holding out for the neutral Mini AA, but now I may pull the trigger on the R5 version just for the heck of it! (and for the higher lumens, of course!)

The low price is the real kicker. If these had been $59 instead of $39, I wouldn't have been interested, but man $39 is just too good! :huh:


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 11, 2009)

heathen said:


> Anybody got a shot of a mini123 next to an old school Fenix P1 that they wouldn't mind posting? Thanks in advance!:twothumbs



I'll try to dig one up tomorrow but I think you'll find they are extremely close in overall size both length and diameter IIRC. The Mini however has excellent knurling so it's far easier to turn than the P1.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 11, 2009)

Thanks Matrixshaman for taking the time to do the beamshots.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

You are Awsome.:twothumbs

4sevens has a real winner here with is one.


lovecpf


----------



## BVH (Dec 11, 2009)

new-b said:


> Hey,
> 
> I pretty new to flashlights. I have a surefire e2e, a fenix T1, and I just got my mini123. All I can say is OH MY GOD! I didn't think this kind of light was even possible. It makes my surefire look dark. I keep going into a dark closet and turning it on and shaking my head in amazement! Not much else to say but WOW!
> 
> ...



Ahhhhh....another newby going into and coming out of the closet. How does it feel to be revealed?


----------



## windstrings (Dec 11, 2009)

I'm still waiting for my pocket HID!.....

thats the only thing thats gonna beat this small of a package!


----------



## michaelmcgo (Dec 11, 2009)

I got my Quark Mini 123 and Preon today after a long time of waiting. They were both well worth the wait! 4Sevens is putting out some serious flashlights with the newest tech at unbelievable prices. I got the Quark AAx2 when it came out (XP-E, but I don't really care it's bright enough for me) and the Quark Mini and Preon just add to the quality and inginuity that I noticed in the orginial Quark.

The Quark Mini 123 in unbelievably small! I knew it was going to be small, but it is ridiculous how tiny this thing is. The modes are perfectly spaced and I thought I wouldn't like the UI (3 preset modes without memory), but I guess it just takes the right brightness levels to appreciate a simple UI.

The Preon is very nice to hold and fits well in the front left pocket (knife is in the front right and bigger light in the back right next to the wallet). The brightness levels are also great on this guy and the high is incredibly bright for a 2xAAA light. The button is great (aluminum model) and it is very easy to get to high right away (click press, soft press, soft press). The anodizing on this light is very unique and exudes quality. I do not think I have ever seen a piece of aluminum with better anodizing than my Preon. The price is amazingly low for 2 bodies and the option of clicky or twisty.

If you are in the market for a new light with a cutting edge emitter, Quark has it.


----------



## applevision (Dec 11, 2009)

compasillo said:


> @Applevision
> 
> Are you talking about the 123 or the AA? (you missed to say it )



Hi *compasillo*! Sorry--I have a 123!


----------



## FroggyTaco (Dec 11, 2009)

I have been using tenergy RCR123 3V versions & use them till they drop due to protection for about 1 year with no ill effects. 




HarveyRich said:


> Just received my MiNi 123. Tested it using AW protected RCR123 (3.7v). It clicked off with the battery at 3.1v at 30 mins on high. Using primaries, the instructions indicated that it should stay on for 1.2 hr. The run time on high seemed somewhat short to me. Anyone else test theirs either on primaries or RCR123?
> 
> The AW can be recharged after the PCB circuit kicks in, at least. I haven't had such luck with Ultrafire or Trustfire. They seem to kick off at a lower voltage too. I don't know what others have used to kick-start their Ultra or Trustfire batteries after the protection kicks in, but if one can't reuse them, they are useless as protection except to keep the battery from venting and exploding.


----------



## strinq (Dec 12, 2009)

Really want to see a comparison between the Mini 123 and the ITP A1. Size and beamshots. 
Does anyone have both?


----------



## paulr (Dec 12, 2009)

heathen said:


> Anybody got a shot of a mini123 next to an old school Fenix P1 that they wouldn't mind posting? Thanks in advance!:twothumbs



I don't have a mini 123 yet but I have a P1CE which I measure at 68.5mm long when turned off, about 1.5mm when cranked down. The mini 123 (if the 2.3" claim is accurate) is almost 1cm shorter, pretty amazing. Thickness is about the same. In my subjective opinion the P1CE looks better. I don't understand why the mini 123 is narrower in the batt compartment part, and its knurling looks sort of crude. But it seems like an awesome light in other regards and I'm about to order at least one, I think.


----------



## riva (Dec 12, 2009)

What I care about most is the number of thread grooves mini AA & 123 have? The number of Fenix ld01 is six so it won't become two parts in pocket while shut off.


----------



## heathen (Dec 12, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> I'll try to dig one up tomorrow but I think you'll find they are extremely close in overall size both length and diameter IIRC. The Mini however has excellent knurling so it's far easier to turn than the P1.


 Thanks man! Yeah I'm actually looking to get a comparison with the original P1. I think as far as size, that the original P1 was perfect for the keychain. The P1D was just a little too large for use on a keychain. I'm hoping that the Mini compares favorably to the original P1.


----------



## passive101 (Dec 12, 2009)

For the Quark Mini's can you swap the body to switch from AA to 123A? 

I'd like to have an ultra small 123A, but if necessary I could switch to a AA?


----------



## davidt1 (Dec 12, 2009)

passive101 said:


> For the Quark Mini's can you swap the body to switch from AA to 123A?
> 
> I'd like to have an ultra small 123A, but if necessary I could switch to a AA?



You want to use a twisty light that starts on low on a gun? Might as well say, "shoot me" in a combat situation.


----------



## Nake (Dec 12, 2009)

passive101 said:


> For the Quark Mini's can you swap the body to switch from AA to 123A?
> 
> I'd like to have an ultra small 123A, but if necessary I could switch to a AA?


 
No, too big a difference in diameters.


----------



## michaelmcgo (Dec 12, 2009)

Here is a review I just posted of the Quark Mini123 and Preon. Lots of pics to oodle:

I got my Quark Mini 123 and Preon today after a long time of waiting out the preorders. They were both well worth the wait! 4Sevens is putting out some serious flashlights with the newest tech at unbelievable prices. I got the Quark AAx2 when it first came out (Cree XP-E emitter, but I don't really care it's plenty bright enough for me) and the Quark Mini and Preon just add to the quality and ingenuity that I noticed in the original Quark. I have carried my Quark AAx2 since I got it and really like the quality that this light was made with. It is obviously very similar to the Fenix line of AAx2 lights, but many improvements have been made to the Quark that I've always felt lacking in the Fenix line.

All 4Sevens lights now come with Cree's newest XP-G emitter. This is there most efficient LED, which allows the maximum brightness for the power used. All 4Sevens flashlights have square cut threads, glass lenses, and Type III Anodizing to name a few perks. The two lights I'm reviewing today both work on a 3 brightness UI. On the Preon you click to cycle through the leves, on the Mini you twist and untwist to cycle. A big selling point of the 4Sevens line for me is the simplicity of all of the UI menus. It's clicks and twists and that's it. The useless modes like SOS and Beacon are very buried on all 4Sevens lights, so if you don't want to use them, you will never see them. If you do want to use them, there's a little more clicking than usual, but they're all there.

Quark Mini 123:
The Quark Mini 123 in unbelievably small! I knew it was going to be small, but it is ridiculous how tiny this thing is. The modes are perfectly spaced and I thought I wouldn't like the UI (3 preset modes without memory), but I guess it just takes the right brightness levels to appreciate a simple UI. I am still up in the air as to weather the high is too high . This thing is extremely bright on high and would be perfect in a defensive situation, but the three twists kind of eliminates that option for many situations. The high level may have been better suited a little lower (for a longer runtime), but I'd most likely be complaining about not having a brighter high if that were the case. I think I will grow to like how bright the high it is only because the medium level is perfectly adjusted for working at night at close range. There are definitely times when I can use a light that is so bright it requires a warning.

Preon
The Preon is very nice to hold and fits well in the front left pocket (knife is in the front right and bigger light in the back right next to the wallet). I have never owned a 2xaaa light before because I always thought it was stupid to have a light that was only a little smaller than a 2xAA. The Preon gives up very little in brightness and runtime for the real life benefit of a much smaller full size light. This thing hides in the pocket, yet it is easy to hold and shines much brighter than any 2xAA I had last year. The brightness levels are also great on this guy and the high is incredibly bright for a 2xAAA light. The button is fantastic (aluminum model) and it is very easy to get to high right away (click press, soft press, soft press). I am very glad that 4Sevens went with an all metal button instead of a rubber boot, it gives this light a very unique character. The anodizing on this light is very well done and exudes quality. It has a texture you can't exactly feel but you can sense, almost like it's rubber coated. I do not think I have ever seen a piece of aluminum with better anodizing than my Preon. The price is amazingly low for 2 bodies, 2 clips, and the option of clicky or twisty.

If you are in the market for a new light with a cutting edge emitter, Quark has it in any battery type now. I have an Ra Twisty in the mail and these two lights have taken away a lot of the anticipation that the Ra Twisty had created.



















































A few simple beam shots. These were taken on the same settings on my camera, but it still adjust to the light and they all look the same brightness. This mostly shows that the two lights are somewhat similar in brightness and beam pattern. The Quark Mini123 is on the left and the Preon is on the right.

Both lights on High:





Both lights on Medium:





Both lights on Low:


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 12, 2009)

riva said:


> What I care about most is the number of thread grooves mini AA & 123 have? The number of Fenix ld01 is six so it won't become two parts in pocket while shut off.



It's got very fine threads so that won't likely be a problem.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 12, 2009)

Thanks for the pics Michaelmcgo.:twothumbs

lovecpflovecpflovecpf


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 12, 2009)

heathen said:


> Thanks man! Yeah I'm actually looking to get a comparison with the original P1. I think as far as size, that the original P1 was perfect for the keychain. The P1D was just a little too large for use on a keychain. I'm hoping that the Mini compares favorably to the original P1.



Here you go:

I didn't have a battery in the P1 and it was twisted all the way closed in this first pic whereas the Quark was about 1 full twist loosened:






This pic I still have a battery in the Quark but tightened it down close to turning on:






It may be hard to tell here but the Quark is a little bit smaller in diameter:






The light on the left is the one that took the last beamshot where the entire room is lit up like a 100 watt bulb.


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 12, 2009)

strinq said:


> Really want to see a comparison between the Mini 123 and the ITP A1. Size and beamshots.
> Does anyone have both?



I don't think the A1 has landed in any U.S. members pockets yet but I got word mine may be shipping today or Monday. 

michaelmcgo, In your beam shots the Preon almost looks brighter than the Mini123. I'm wondering if that could be just a slight difference in angle of lights hitting the wall and producing more glare to the camera. Does the Preon look brighter to your eye than the Mini? Thanks for the detailed review and pics. Preon's are pretty !


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 12, 2009)

Thanks again Matrixshaman for the great pics.

I'm still waiting for my lights too show.This tread is the only thing keeping me going.



lovecpflovecpflovecpf


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 12, 2009)

Lightcrazycanuck said:


> Thanks again Matrixshaman for the great pics.
> 
> I'm still waiting for my lights too show.This tread is the only thing keeping me going.
> 
> ...



You're welcome - I'll bet the postal guys up your way will be moving a little faster just to stay warm from the way things look. Hopefully they'll get their soon :thumbsup:

BTW I can tell from my pic above where the Fenix P1 is head to head with the Mini that you might not think the Mini is smaller so I just grabbed my digital Micrometer. 
Fenix P1 head = 20.40 mm
Mini 123 head = 20.28 mm


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 12, 2009)

windstrings said:


> I'm still waiting for my pocket HID!.....
> 
> thats the only thing thats gonna beat this small of a package!


 
+1


----------



## Zendude (Dec 12, 2009)

strinq said:


> Really want to see a comparison between the Mini 123 and the ITP A1. Size and beamshots.
> Does anyone have both?



Don't forget the A2! 

I ordered one with some A3s for gifts but the black A3 was back ordered.:mecry:
I'll order the MiNi AA for myself and maybe the wife.:naughty: 
I'm still holding out for Ti or NAT HA but it doesn't look like it's going to happen any time soon.:mecry:

Matrixshaman, 

Any word on your clip solution?


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 12, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> You're welcome - I'll bet the postal guys up your way will be moving a little faster just to stay warm from the way things look. Hopefully they'll get their soon :thumbsup:


 
Yep,

The dog teams seem a little slow this year.


----------



## BVH (Dec 12, 2009)

I really like my Preon and had expected my Mini123's (due today) to replace the 2-year old RAW that has been in my pocket every day. But I just realized that neither light has "last level memory". This is a deal-breaker for me - for EDC uses. 95% or more of the time, I use the high level of light. I'll still use them around the house, garage and in the cars. They are very nice lights and are at a great price point. I wonder if a couple or five dollars more would have bought the exact same UI but with memory?


----------



## Knife Boy (Dec 12, 2009)

I got my Mini 123 yesterday......What a tremendous value!! The light is superb. Great finishing, built well, smooth operation, great levels (low is good and low, medium is perfect for all around use, and high is really high when you need it). I love the fact that the strobes/beacons are available if needed, but tucked away. The packaging was a real treat, and unexpected in a $39 light. Tint on mine was really good. Ididn't note any green at all. I love this light...I think I need 1 or 6 more. Great job 4 Sevens!!


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 12, 2009)

Zendude said:


> Don't forget the A2!
> 
> I ordered one with some A3s for gifts but the black A3 was back ordered.:mecry:
> I'll order the MiNi AA for myself and maybe the wife.:naughty:
> ...



Unfortunately still likely a ways off time wise as I haven't got my shop set back up yet. Working hard towards that goal though - maybe one or 2 months yet.


----------



## Russz (Dec 12, 2009)

Both of my Minis arrived today! What a couple of GREAT lights! I'm sure I'll be ordering more although I'll probably wait till after the holiday.
Great Job 4 Sevens!
Russ Z:twothumbs


----------



## Zendude (Dec 12, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> Unfortunately still likely a ways off time wise as I haven't got my shop set back up yet. Working hard towards that goal though - maybe one or 2 months yet.



Good luck!:thumbsup:

I'm looking forward to see what you come up with.


----------



## heathen (Dec 12, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> Here you go:
> 
> I didn't have a battery in the P1 and it was twisted all the way closed in this first pic whereas the Quark was about 1 full twist loosened:
> 
> ...


 Thanks very much, my friend!! Great shots! It's exactly what I hoped to see.:twothumbs


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 12, 2009)

lovecpflovecpflovecpf


----------



## jamie.91 (Dec 12, 2009)

i cant wait till some of the modders get there hands on these, any chance of an aspheric ? i would love to see that, a real pocket thrower lol

jamie


----------



## jonesy (Dec 12, 2009)

Anyone else notice that you can turn the light on by pressing down on the head when it's turned to almost being on? I'm not sure if this is common with this kind of light or not. Doesn't really matter too much to me, if you back it off a bit more it won't occur.

I also just ordered a neutral tint 123, it will be cool to compare the two when it arrives. :twothumbs


----------



## pobox1475 (Dec 12, 2009)

> They dont... but I never get too far from my charger so I might as well have a million ah battery.... I dont like buying batteries and I dont like not knowing how much of a charge I have left.
> 
> With primaries... you want to run them down so you dont waste them, but that means you never know when your going to run out.
> 
> ...


 *+100%*

_+ my 2 cents; Protected AW's and a Pila IBC._

Really looking forward to my Q3-5A3 Mini AA. 

lovecpf


----------



## HKJ (Dec 12, 2009)

jonesy said:


> Anyone else notice that you can turn the light on by pressing down on the head when it's turned to almost being on? I'm not sure if this is common with this kind of light or not.



This is common to all twisty lights.


----------



## jonesy (Dec 12, 2009)

HKJ said:


> This is common to all twisty lights.



Thanks! I just tried it with my Aeon and it did the same, although the threads on the Aeon are quite a bit tighter.


----------



## vali (Dec 12, 2009)

Waiting for the neutral AA too. Just a question for those who got the "regular" version. Does it feel fail-proof enough to trust your life to? Right now the only light I dont think it will fail is the E01 and I wonder if the Mini is in the same reliability level?

I am asking that not to try to bash the Quark, but the opposite. It seems good enough in the pics to set a benchmark like the Ra-twisty set for CR123 powered lights.


----------



## koolranch (Dec 12, 2009)

Just got my 123 today and I love it! My question is does it have a memory
funtion? And if so how does it work.


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 12, 2009)

vali said:


> Waiting for the neutral AA too. Just a question for those who got the "regular" version. Does it feel fail-proof enough to trust your life to? Right now the only light I dont think it will fail is the E01 and I wonder if the Mini is in the same reliability level?
> 
> I am asking that not to try to bash the Quark, but the opposite. It seems good enough in the pics to set a benchmark like the Ra-twisty set for CR123 powered lights.



I think it's very well built and fairly fail safe but it's not built like a tank like a Ra. You probably won't be able to run over it with a semi and expect it to be fine as it's a fairly thin body. And being a twisty means it may not be as quick as a tail switch but within the inherent limitations of a very small and lightweight flashlight I trust 4Sevens products are top quality.


----------



## BVH (Dec 12, 2009)

koolranch said:


> Just got my 123 today and I love it! My question is does it have a memory
> funtion? And if so how does it work.



Unfortunately "no" is what I've been told and experienced on the Preon which uses the same UI.


----------



## jonesy (Dec 12, 2009)

Personally, it seems not quite as bombproof as my Muyshondt Aeon, as it weighs less than the Aeon even though it's slightly bigger. From the front you can see that the walls are thinner. There also seems to be a bit more play in the threads in my version (123) versus the Aeon. 

Of course, for the price, I would expect the Aeon to be built better, and it is. The 123 has a much more usable and I think nicer beam, with a more pleasing (less green) tint with no rings. It's a solid feeling light though.

As for whether it will last for the long haul, I plan to abuse mine as usual on a daily basis of it living on my keys. I hope it can handle it (it should). If I break it (which I doubt), I'll report in. So far, I am very impressed with it from top to bottom and it's now my new EDC. 

The worst part about it is that many of my bigger lights are nowhere near as bright as the 123. Now I'm on the hunt for another that it brighter and throwier (is that a word) to complement the quark mini. Kudos to Dave for such a great light!


----------



## koolranch (Dec 12, 2009)

Well that's to bad, I love the light but would of prefered it to start on high. But that's just me. 



BVH said:


> Unfortunately "no" is what I've been told and experienced on the Preon which uses the same UI.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 12, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> I think it's very well built and fairly fail safe but it's not built like a tank like a Ra. You probably won't be able to run over it with a semi and expect it to be fine as it's a fairly thin body. And being a twisty means it may not be as quick as a tail switch but within the inherent limitations of a very small and lightweight flashlight I trust 4Sevens products are top quality.


 

+1:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

For a $39 Flashlight it is Top Notch in my books.


lovecpf


----------



## Beamhead (Dec 12, 2009)

This thread is killing me, my minis have yet to ship..........................:hairpull: rasanfrasanflugglefrick


----------



## Nitroz (Dec 12, 2009)

Beamhead said:


> This thread is killing me, my minis have yet to ship..........................:hairpull: rasanfrasanflugglefrick



I have my sweet little mini.:nana:


----------



## csshih (Dec 12, 2009)

a Q123 mini that sgt. LED generously offered to me has arrived.. but it is going to a more needy friend very very soon.

I am currently doing a runtime test with a IMR 16340.. will do a primary later this evening. 

any requests for any specific comparisons?


----------



## ZRXBILL (Dec 12, 2009)

csshih said:


> a Q123 mini that sgt. LED generously offered to me has arrived.. but it is going to a more needy friend very very soon.
> 
> I am currently doing a runtime test with a IMR 16340.. will do a primary later this evening.
> 
> any requests for any specific comparisons?




Is the IMR 16340 a 3.0V because I assume these will not use RCR123 3.7V cells correct?


----------



## Marduke (Dec 12, 2009)

ZRXBILL said:


> Is the IMR 16340 a 3.0V because I assume these will not use RCR123 3.7V cells correct?



No, IMR is a 3.7v chemistry, and yes, the Mini's can use Li-Ion's.


----------



## Stress_Test (Dec 12, 2009)

So, how are you guys feeling about the PWM? (for those who already received their mini's)

The PWM on the Fenix L0D doesn't really bother me, but on the Rebel MiniMag low mode the PWM tends to make me a little motion sick :sick2:

Any comments or comparisons?


(btw I already ordered the Mini R5 AA, so I'm stuck with it either way, I just want to know what I'm getting myself into!  )


----------



## vali (Dec 12, 2009)

Thanks for the answer, guys. I forgot the only way to make it so small was with thin walls. In the pics they seem very strong, but physics are physics. Anyway, I dont plant to use it under truck wheels...


----------



## vali (Dec 12, 2009)

Stress_Test said:


> So, how are you guys feeling about the PWM? (for those who already received their mini's)
> 
> The PWM on the Fenix L0D doesn't really bother me, but on the Rebel MiniMag low mode the PWM tends to make me a little motion sick :sick2:
> 
> ...



You should be fine since the frequency in the mini is way higher than the L0D.


----------



## csshih (Dec 12, 2009)

ZRXBILL said:


> Is the IMR 16340 a 3.0V because I assume these will not use RCR123 3.7V cells correct?


the manual states it can use RCR123, :shrug:
the runtime test has ended, though the light is still glowing.. when I turned it off and tried to turn it on again, it refused to light. (on that dead battery). (new batt =  )

going to upload the data later.

PWM is very high.. unnoticeable under normal use.


----------



## Marduke (Dec 12, 2009)

Stress_Test said:


> So, how are you guys feeling about the PWM? (for those who already received their mini's)
> 
> The PWM on the Fenix L0D doesn't really bother me, but on the Rebel MiniMag low mode the PWM tends to make me a little motion sick :sick2:
> 
> ...



It's 2600Hz, WAY beyond human perception.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 12, 2009)

BVH said:


> I really like my Preon and had expected my Mini123's (due today) to replace the 2-year old RAW that has been in my pocket every day. But I just realized that neither light has "last level memory". This is a deal-breaker for me - for EDC uses. 95% or more of the time, I use the high level of light. I'll still use them around the house, garage and in the cars. They are very nice lights and are at a great price point. I wonder if a couple or five dollars more would have bought the exact same UI but with memory?




I like cast memory too... but on the other hand, I"m always reminded that a lower setting may do the job this way...... just trying to look at the bright side!.... no pun there.....


----------



## BVH (Dec 12, 2009)

Windy...Shame on you! You're a Lumens junkie like me so what are you doing saying that low or medium might do the job!


----------



## windstrings (Dec 12, 2009)

pobox1475 said:


> *+100%*
> 
> _+ my 2 cents; Protected AW's and a Pila IBC._
> 
> ...




yep.. ..thats the combination I use...


----------



## windstrings (Dec 12, 2009)

BVH said:


> Windy...Shame on you! You're a Lumens junkie like me so what are you doing saying that low or medium might do the job!




 OK.. you got me... I'm reminded, but I "never" use the lower settings!.... just gives me a warm and fuzzy knowing they are there. :thumbsup:


----------



## moldyoldy (Dec 12, 2009)

just received my miniAA and red Preon kit. 

I like the Preon styling and the red color and the kit to mix/match 1AA/2AA and the clicky switch as well as a twist possibility. I also have no problems with the clicky. The 1AA body o-ring for the head is a bit large and can be pinched when screwing on the head. Some lube helped that. The brightness with 1AA is about the same as the latest Fenix LD01 as determined by a ceiling bounce test. The Preon 1AA beam shape is a bit wider than I like when on lower powers. The beam spread of the Preon 1AA is noticeably wider by comparison with a Fenix LD01. The highest power gives some "punch" to the beam. The brightness with 2AAs is impressive. I suspect that the 2AA format will be the most used. Jury is still out on clicky vs twist. I am also not sure how I would attach the Preon to a key ring w/o wearing out my pocket by leaving the clip on. Have to think about the EDC style.

The MiniAA is amazingly small. The brightness on 1AA Ni-MH is, uh, disappointing in the midst of it's present competition. ie: The MiniAA is definitely less bright than a D10R2 when both are on NiMH. However, switch to 14500 in both lights and the MiniAA is very obviously brighter than the D10R2. The MiniAA also heats up quickly with 14500 cells, so if long run time is desired, stick with NiMH cells. and yes, my MiniAA can be twisted on/off 1-handed.

A comment about the beam pattern in the 4Sevens lights: I also have the Quark AA2 as well. I definitely like the broader beam on higher powers. However on the lowest powers the pattern is rather "thin". That is a design compromise with the intent to cover the near distances better. In my case, if I want to reach out, I will pick up my TK40.


----------



## csshih (Dec 12, 2009)

hm. this is on the lower capacity IMR battery.


----------



## koolranch (Dec 12, 2009)

csshih said:


> hm. this is on the lower capacity IMR battery.


 

Thanks for the info, did you get your light to come back on?? Are you telling me that after you ran it for 30 minutes it would not turn back on?? :thinking:


----------



## csshih (Dec 12, 2009)

no.. what i meant is that at the end of the runtime.. the light was still glowing, but after a on/off.. the light didn't glow.

fresh batt =  light!


----------



## PCC (Dec 12, 2009)

riva said:


> What I care about most is the number of thread grooves mini AA & 123 have? The number of Fenix ld01 is six so it won't become two parts in pocket while shut off.


 
I just counted 5 full turns from loose to "on". 3.5 of those turns before the O-ring engages.



Stress_Test said:


> So, how are you guys feeling about the PWM? (for those who already received their mini's)
> 
> The PWM on the Fenix L0D doesn't really bother me, but on the Rebel MiniMag low mode the PWM tends to make me a little motion sick :sick2:
> 
> ...


I did the "waving my light while looking at the wall" thing to see if I saw a bunch of spots or not. No spots seen! I did notice that I get a minor whine when in low and a slightly louder whine when on medium but no whine whatsoever on high.

Anyone else hoping that 4Sevens makes a 2XAA body for either of these flashlights? I sure am!


----------



## koolranch (Dec 12, 2009)

csshih said:


> no.. what i meant is that at the end of the runtime.. the light was still glowing, but after a on/off.. the light didn't glow.
> 
> fresh batt =  light!


 

ok......... I was starting to worry...:thumbsup:


----------



## BVH (Dec 12, 2009)

csshih said:


> no.. what i meant is that at the end of the runtime.. the light was still glowing, but after a on/off.. the light didn't glow.
> 
> fresh batt =  light!



"Moon" mode, maybe?


----------



## madmook (Dec 12, 2009)

csshih said:


> hm. this is on the lower capacity IMR battery.


 Thanks for the data, not a lot of reviews test runtime with the lower-capacity "safe" RCR123A's. I have recently decided to jump into the world of CR123A's & RCR123A's, and I am waiting for delivery of some AW LiFePO4's. Guilt-free lumens, indeed!


----------



## koolranch (Dec 12, 2009)

"Anyone else hoping that 4Sevens makes a 2XAA body for either of these flashlights? I sure am!"

Wouldn't that kind of defeat the whole principal behind the MINI concept?


----------



## applevision (Dec 12, 2009)

jonesy said:


> ...Of course, for the price, I would expect the Aeon to be built better, and it is. The 123 has a much more usable and I think nicer beam, with a more pleasing (less green) tint with no rings. It's a solid feeling light though...The worst part about it is that many of my bigger lights are nowhere near as bright as the 123. Now I'm on the hunt for another that it brighter and throwier (is that a word) to complement the quark mini. Kudos to Dave for such a great light!



+1 on all counts! I agree the Aeon seems a bit tougher but I like the MiNi 123 so much more for its beam color, beam shape and smoothness and raw power! I also prefer the MiNi interface as it's faster to high with 1 hand...



koolranch said:


> Well that's to bad, I love the light but would of prefered it to start on high. But that's just me.





BVH said:


> Windy...Shame on you! You're a Lumens junkie like me so what are you doing saying that low or medium might do the job!



You guys, I hear you and am also a lumens junkie--but wait til you see how bright this thing is! Just shining it into your hand--the reflection is blinding. This is a light that best starts on low I think... :twothumbs


----------



## brianch (Dec 12, 2009)

This thread has cost me more money


----------



## Csp203 (Dec 12, 2009)

koolranch said:


> "Anyone else hoping that 4Sevens makes a 2XAA body for either of these flashlights? I sure am!"
> 
> Wouldn't that kind of defeat the whole principal behind the MINI concept?



I to would like to see a 2XAA body for my mini AA. I like the output (throw vs spill) on the mini. My mini now lives on my keychain, e01 given to my ten year old. A 2xAA body mini would be a perfect pocket light IMHO.


----------



## photonstorm (Dec 12, 2009)

me too. :mecry:

not a single person disappointed with the mini 123.

if that's not marketing i don't know what is.

Thank you David & 4sevens. You deserve to be richly rewarded.


----------



## passive101 (Dec 12, 2009)

davidt1 said:


> You want to use a twisty light that starts on low on a gun? Might as well say, "shoot me" in a combat situation.



I should have read closer. I thought this was a clicky that could use a tactical switch


----------



## applevision (Dec 12, 2009)

photonstorm said:


> Thank you David & 4sevens. You deserve to be richly rewarded.



And how! I just ordered 2 MiNi 123 neutral tints and 2 more regulars... OMG.

Basically, everybody I know is getting a MiNi!


----------



## sabre7 (Dec 12, 2009)

I thought I read where it is OK to use 14500s in the Mini AA, if so would all the levels still work? 

Would 14500s make the Mini AA just as bright (or brighter) as the Mini 123?


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 12, 2009)

Beamhead said:


> This thread is killing me, my minis have yet to ship..........................:hairpull: rasanfrasanflugglefrick


 
I feel for you man,I'm still waiting for mine to show up too.

lovecpflovecpflovecpf


----------



## kimck99 (Dec 12, 2009)

Hi All,

Well, I received my Q-MiNi 123 today and I like it a lot. As others have stated, this light is very small. Smaller than I expected. For the size, with RCR123, this is an incredible pocket rocket. I like the styling where the narrow (recessed) part of the body makes for a very comfortable cigar-grip.

LIGHT/BEAM - Compared to the Nitecore D10 R2 (my favorite light), the hotpot is much wider and the transition from the hotpot to the overall spill is smoother. I like beam pattern better on the QM123 better because of the larger hotspot and wider spill. As for which is brighter, it's difficult to say as because the D10 has a tighter hotspot so the preception is that it's brighter I think they are about same. Just subjective eyeballing.

Also, I have the blue Preon kit and I am happy to report that the tint is WAY LESS green than the Preon. (I dislike my Preon beam color....) There is a hint of green tint but not much. Although, I like my D10 R2 color better but the QM123 is a good tint.


BUILD - With regards to the build, the Nitecore D10 is by bar much tougher. I have the Quark AA R2 and the 18650 body and the build quality of the Quarks are nowhere near Nitecore's build. I get that for the cost difference, that's a trade off.

QUESTION - for you Q123 owners, how do you attach the light to your key ring? The key ring hole (or lanyard hole) is very small. There is no way my key ring fits through the hole. Also, the bottom (or top) part of the key ring hole is rather thin and I am concerned that if you use a ring that is any bit of abrasiveness, the material will just wear through. If you have a solution, it would be great if you can post some pictures as I am stumped as to how or what I would use to tether this light to my car key ring.


----------



## jhc37013 (Dec 12, 2009)

I'm still trying to decide to get a mini123 or not and just wondering if its possible to operate the twisty head with one hand.
I have always had no problem with the PD10 or LD01 but since this light is smaller idk. Thanks for your input and I wish this light came on in medium but to each his own. Maybe a programmable model in future.


----------



## Nitroz (Dec 12, 2009)

kimck99 said:


> QUESTION - for you Q123 owners, how do you attach the light to your key ring? The key ring hole (or lanyard hole) is very small. There is no way my key ring fits through the hole. Also, the bottom (or top) part of the key ring hole is rather thin and I am concerned that if you use a ring that is any bit of abrasiveness, the material will just wear through. If you have a solution, it would be great if you can post some pictures as I am stumped as to how or what I would use to tether this light to my car key ring.



The mini comes with a little ring that you will attach to your key ring.


----------



## Nitroz (Dec 12, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> I'm still trying to decide to get a mini123 or not and just wondering if its possible to operate the twisty head with one hand.
> I have always had no problem with the PD10 or LD01 but since this light is smaller idk. Thanks for your input and I wish this light came on in medium but to each his own. Maybe a programmable model in future.



I have no problems changing modes on my mini with just one hand, the knurling is just right!


----------



## branespload (Dec 12, 2009)

^ Yeah.. I'm not sure if everyone pulls out the foam insert to see the lanyard, o-rings and split ring underneath.


----------



## jhc37013 (Dec 12, 2009)

Nitroz said:


> I have no problems changing modes on my mini with just one hand, the knurling is just right!




Thanks Nitroz I thought I might be able to because of the head being half of the light.


----------



## kimck99 (Dec 13, 2009)

Nitroz said:


> The mini comes with a little ring that you will attach to your key ring.


 
I was a bit too excited to play with the QM123 that I didn't even noticed it on the lanyard clip!

Thanks

PS - Just charged up AW RCR123 and Trustfire 14500. Re-tested the beam brightness and the D10 R2 on 14500 is brighter than the QM123 on RCR on fresh batteries.


----------



## brianch (Dec 13, 2009)

I dont think I cant stand waiting 2-3 more weeks for this to arrive. I want my mini now!! :devil::hairpull:


----------



## csshih (Dec 13, 2009)

the moon mode ended at 170 minutes, at roughly 1% brightness.


----------



## paulr (Dec 13, 2009)

Good useful graphs. I just placed an order for a mini 123 neutral tint, supposedly arriving in january. It's not absolutely clear to me that they will be made at all, but I guess I'll worry about that if and when it becomes an issue. I'm playing with the idea of ordering the xp-g version as well, just for the outrageous brightness for a light that small, but I'm not too keen on the xp-g tint lottery, and I think a light that bright should be set up as a thrower.

I go back and forth on the issue but these days I'm not too interested in the concept of a powerful 1aa light. If I want something compact with good output on rechargeable or lithium cells, 1aaa lights have gotten amazingly capable and they are smaller than 1aa's. If I want something brighter than a 1aaa light, the cr123 lights are quite a bit more powerful than 1aa's, smaller, more electrically efficient, and can get a bit more throw from the slightly larger reflector diameter. And if I want something with maximal battery interoperability and simplicity, that requires lower power draw for use with zinc-carbon AA's, and no multiple modes or levels. I just gave a Peak Pacific "HP" setup (Seoul P4 running at 100 mA or so for maybe 20 lumens) to a friend who lives overseas. It would be great to have something like that with an XP-G, once they get the tint sorted out.


----------



## PCC (Dec 13, 2009)

koolranch said:


> Wouldn't that kind of defeat the whole principal behind the MINI concept?


In a sense, yes, and in a sense, no. I can see using the MiNi AA while commuting by bicycle strapped to my helmet but the run time isn't enough to get me home if I use high. Medium will get me home but isn't bright enough. Yes, I'm using NiMH cells. Even the MiNi 123 won't do it because of the even shorter run times on RCR123 cells. No, I'm not about to buy a bunch of CR123 primaries! That leaves the 2 X AA option that is not available to us. 2AA should give longer run times and brighter output.

I guess I should just build that Mini-MagLite that I've been wanting to build for this purpose.


----------



## mr.snakeman (Dec 13, 2009)

Boy, did I loose the tint lottery in a big way. Both my 123 and AA MiNi lights have the worst green tint of all (about 25) my lights :shakehead. Everything else with the lights is fine, but the green tint is a real turn-off for me. Also, I´ve read that some people have been using a 14500 LiIon battery in their MiNi AA. Is this possible, as the manual states the voltage rang for the AA to be 0.9 - 1.5v.? I´d hate to try and see my emitter go!


----------



## Lite_me (Dec 13, 2009)

sabre7 said:


> I thought I read where it is OK to use 14500s in the Mini AA, if so would all the levels still work?
> 
> Would 14500s make the Mini AA just as bright (or brighter) as the Mini 123?





mr.snakeman said:


> Also, I´ve read that some people have been using a 14500 LiIon battery in their MiNi AA. Is this possible,



Yes & yes.


----------



## moldyoldy (Dec 13, 2009)

kimck99 said:


> I was a bit too excited to play with the QM123 that I didn't even noticed it on the lanyard clip!
> 
> Thanks
> 
> PS - Just charged up AW RCR123 and Trustfire 14500. Re-tested the beam brightness and the D10 R2 on 14500 is brighter than the QM123 on RCR on fresh batteries.



...and the MiniAA on 14500 is much brighter than the D10R2 all on high. I suspect that the brightness of the MiniAA on 14500 is about what the Mini123 would be. 

Actually, my copy of the D10R2 does not vary that much in brightness between a NiMH and 14500 AA cells. I had one other D10R2 that I gifted, and that was about the same - not much change between NhMH and 14500. However, only 2 copies is a degrees of freedom of 1...


----------



## riva (Dec 13, 2009)

moldyoldy said:


> The MiniAA is definitely less bright than a D10R2 when both are on NiMH. However, switch to 14500 in both lights and the MiniAA is very obviously brighter than the D10R2.


 
Is the brightness estimated in luminous flux or luminous intensity of the hotspot? The luminous flux of D10R2 is 145lm, but this number will somewhat decrease while measured by OTF.


----------



## riva (Dec 13, 2009)

PCC said:


> I just counted 5 full turns from loose to "on". 3.5 of those turns before the O-ring engages.


 

That seems to be a good news.
Fenix ld01 has six rounds of threads but only 4.5 full turns from loose to "on". So Quark mini AA has got a better "anti-loose" capability than ld01.


----------



## Nitroz (Dec 13, 2009)

kimck99 said:


> PS - Just charged up AW RCR123 and Trustfire 14500. Re-tested the beam brightness and the D10 R2 on 14500 is brighter than the QM123 on RCR on fresh batteries.



Where did you test the two lights? Inside against a wall?

If you really want to see what the M123 is capable of, take it outside and compare the two one at a time.(Of course at night) This will give you a better idea of the useful beam of the XP-G emitter.


Another thing is that you are comparing two totally different LEDs. The XR-E in the D10 has more throw, the XP-G has more evenly distributed light.


----------



## PCC (Dec 13, 2009)

Just to clarify, when I said "loose" I meant not threaded on at all. It is at this point that the head comes off of the body. After 3.5 complete turns the O-ring engages and the resistance goes up. 1.5 turns more and the light turns on (head stops turning). You can completely disengage this light with just a quarter turn from on, though I give it a bit more than that, more like 3/8 turn. At 1/8 turn from on but with the light off you can compress the head and the light will turn on momentarily.


----------



## Tremendo (Dec 13, 2009)

My Mini AA's have the perfect tightness with their twisty action. Twist great, I couldn't be happier right now. 14500 fits perfect.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 13, 2009)




----------



## CallMeDave (Dec 13, 2009)

Noise?

Any whine on the lower levels???


----------



## gbelleh (Dec 13, 2009)

You guys! Now you made me go and order a Mini 123! 
I'm a little worried about getting a bad tint though.

I don't mind a slight bit of yellow or green, but I really hope I don't get a crummy, blue tint!


----------



## get-lit (Dec 13, 2009)

It sure is something how everyone is reporting such differences in tint for these things. Mine is particularly awesome. It is the purest whitest LED light I have, and it's my favorite color of them all. It really brings out the truest colors in everything. I actually use the light a lot more just because I really like the white light it puts out. I really couldn't be any happier.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 13, 2009)

kimck99 said:


> QUESTION - for you Q123 owners, how do you attach the light to your key ring? The key ring hole (or lanyard hole) is very small. There is no way my key ring fits through the hole. Also, the bottom (or top) part of the key ring hole is rather thin and I am concerned that if you use a ring that is any bit of abrasiveness, the material will just wear through. If you have a solution, it would be great if you can post some pictures as I am stumped as to how or what I would use to tether this light to my car key ring.



I really like the lobster claws.

Here is a pic that shows what it looks like. it connects just as easy to the Quark Mini 123....


----------



## compasillo (Dec 13, 2009)

Windstrings,

Would be great if you resize pics to 800x600 according to CPF rules so It won't be necessary to continously scroll forth and back to read posts.


----------



## michaelmcgo (Dec 13, 2009)

compasillo said:


> Windstrings,
> 
> Would be great if you resize pics to 800x600 according to CPF rules so It won't be necessary to continously scroll forth and back to read posts.




Or buy a monitor that is bigger than your watch face...


----------



## windstrings (Dec 13, 2009)

compasillo said:


> Windstrings,
> 
> Would be great if you resize pics to 800x600 according to CPF rules so It won't be necessary to continously scroll forth and back to read posts.




I had to delete it..... I resized it all the way down to 320 X 240px... deleted and kept relinking and it still shows the bigger one even though it doesn't exist on photobucket anymore.... so I don't know if its cached on cpf or what.... anyway....

Im a member of many forums... two of which are camera and cell phone forums which really love as high a resolution as possible to show the maximum quality.
so my default settings in photobucket are as high as you can go....

I also assume if someone is trying to see the little details of how the claw hooks up, that would appreciate the larger resolution.

the cpf rule of max file size was made quite a while ago and while its still a rule, it is pretty antiquated as compared to most monitors now a days....
Whether the limit is set at 800 X 600 or 320 X 240, there will still be some people who have problems.

Even my cellphone "the droid" has 854 X 480 resolution but I realize most people are not serious about photo quality they just want to see a quick picture.

Now a days if your monitor does not see bigger than 800 X 600, your going to be scrolling on virtually every web page you go to anyway..... it should not be startling to see a picture that size too.


----------



## madmook (Dec 13, 2009)

compasillo said:


> Windstrings,
> 
> Would be great if you resize pics to 800x600 according to CPF rules so It won't be necessary to continously scroll forth and back to read posts.


What resolution are you browsing at? I agree that the 800x600 rule should be followed, but it intrigued me to read that a 1024x768 pic would make you need to scroll horizontally.

Again, I agree with what you said and also agree with the image resolution restriction, so this is just a point of curiosity for me.


----------



## Beamhead (Dec 13, 2009)

If you use Imageshack you can post a thumbnail that leads to a higher res(larger than 800x600) pic.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 13, 2009)

thats a thought


----------



## compasillo (Dec 14, 2009)

madmook said:


> What resolution are you browsing at? I agree that the 800x600 rule should be followed, but it intrigued me to read that a 1024x768 pic would make you need to scroll horizontally.
> 
> Again, I agree with what you said and also agree with the image resolution restriction, so this is just a point of curiosity for me.




I'm using the most common 1024x768, but an image in that resolution won't fit the screen without scrolling horizontally. There's more side info that needs room to be displayed.


----------



## HKJ (Dec 14, 2009)

windstrings said:


> I had to delete it..... I resized it all the way down to 320 X 240px... deleted and kept relinking and it still shows the bigger one even though it doesn't exist on photobucket anymore.... so I don't know if its cached on cpf or what.... anyway....



This may be due to you own browser cache, try pressing F5.


----------



## ergotelis (Dec 14, 2009)

got them both just a few hours ago!Time to play!


----------



## moldyoldy (Dec 14, 2009)

riva said:


> Is the brightness estimated in luminous flux or luminous intensity of the hotspot? The luminous flux of D10R2 is 145lm, but this number will somewhat decrease while measured by OTF.



Sorry for the delayed response - I missed your question - too many other interesting threads to read with too little time. 

My only measurement system(s) for brightness of a flashlight is my perception using my pair of Mk-1 Eyeballs. I do not have a lightbox, etc. For general total output, I use a ceiling bounce from a white ceiling and light beige walls and alternate quickly uncovering/covering up one light or the other with something fairly dense or nearly opaque. For a practical usage, my neighbor has a gazebo some 30 meters away from my back door. The area generally is wooded. My "near-outside" test is the visually perceived brightness on the gazebo building plus the amount of gazebo covered by the spot or spill. My "far-outside" test is simply into the woods and then into the park bordering on my back yard. So far no one has complained about my TK40 although I am careful while walking where I point that output....


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 14, 2009)

ergotelis said:


> got them both just a few hours ago!Time to play!


----------



## bansuri (Dec 14, 2009)

CallMeDave said:


> Noise?
> 
> Any whine on the lower levels???


If I stuff it into my ear canal I can hear whine on low and med, nothing on high. BTW, you'll know when it's on high when it's in your ear as there is a sudden warming sensation. So, that qualifies as almost no whine. Definitely couldn't hear it at arm's length.

Awesome little light.
Easy 1-handed operation.
Useful levels.
Strobe modes if you want them.
Nice knurling and anodizing.
Comes with huge lobster claw lanyard that can be cut down to make 2.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 14, 2009)

Just recieved my 123 and AA from the Postal guy.:twothumbs

The -50c temps the last couple of days must have had an effect on the dog teams I guess.

All I can say is I love the lights.

The 4sevens team did a outstanding job on these lights.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

What else can I say.

Goodbye Fenix P1D,Hello 4SEVENS Mini 123.:naughty:


----------



## madmook (Dec 14, 2009)

Just got my MiNi AA, and I love it! It will now be my "main" edc due to its size (though I'll always have other lights with me lol).

Got some gripes with using an AW 14500, however: slightly longer length of 14500 makes the twisty require more force to engage, and the high-pitched electronic whine when on medium mode is MUCH more pronounced when using a 14500 than it is with a NiMH.

Looks like I'll stick to using good ol' NiMH's for it. Can't wait to get the neutral-white version!

I also pre-ordered a neutral white MiNi 123, does that make a loud high-pitched whine on medium mode?


----------



## ergotelis (Dec 14, 2009)

Some interesting numbers:

Amp reading on Mini123 with AW123:
High: 1,1amp
Med: 0,19amp
low: 0,01amp

3188 lux on high at 1m for Mini123 with AW123.

Amp reading on Mini AA with eneloop:

high: 0,85amp
med: 0,35amp
low: 0,05 amp

Lux reading on high at 1m MiniAA with eneloop: 756 lux

Is there anybody that does not like minis? I am totally amazed! Awesome deal!
I love a lot mini123, top performance! MiniAA is more practical, waiting for a 14500 to arrive!


----------



## henry1960 (Dec 14, 2009)

Lightcrazycanuck said:


> All I can say is I love the lights.
> 
> The 4sevens team did a outstanding job on these light




I just recieved my AA light and love it. Five Stars 4 Sevens!!!! :twothumbs


----------



## recDNA (Dec 14, 2009)

I'm a little disappointed with the brightness of my 123 mini (on high) as well as the color. Although the hotspot and spill are smaller in my EZ CR12 they both appear brighter in high than the 123 in high. Granted the mini 123 has a MUCH bigger hotspot and spill but the spill looks dim compaired to the high spill of the EZ Cr2. The EZ CR2 looks whiter too. I suppose the Mini would be better if you want to light an entire room and it's certainly brighter if used as a candle but if you're trying to find something under a table in the dark I'll take the EZCR2.


----------



## alanjeep (Dec 14, 2009)

I am not a member on CPF MP so i will post this here.
In 4sevens first post it states "*We used a high powered laser to carved out an embossed image of our logo! " *
Mine is not carved out like in the picture. It is just flat with a very faint 4 sevens logo. Is everyones light
like this ?

Besides this the ony thing I dislike about my mini 123 is the very mini lanyard hole. I have a hard time trusting the thin included split ring. Tried to use a Lighthound SS split ring, but the wire size is to large. I can get the size 5 and 6 on the light, but once on, it has to stay on the single wire of the ring.


----------



## madmook (Dec 14, 2009)

Lookin' at my MiNi AA right now, and I guess it's not as pronounced as that photo...





But the 4 7 is plenty visible... dunno exactly what you mean by "very faint"


----------



## qip (Dec 14, 2009)

FLAT OUT AWESOME  best keychain light ever


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 14, 2009)

recDNA said:


> I'm a little disappointed with the brightness of my 123 mini (on high) as well as the color. Although the hotspot and spill are smaller in my EZ CR12 they both appear brighter in high than the 123 in high. Granted the mini 123 has a MUCH bigger hotspot and spill but the spill looks dim compaired to the high spill of the EZ Cr2. The EZ CR2 looks whiter too. I suppose the Mini would be better if you want to light an entire room and it's certainly brighter if used as a candle but if you're trying to find something under a table in the dark I'll take the EZCR2.



Are you running the Mini 123 on primaries or rechargeables? If you are using a primary then try a rechargeable (I believe you can_not_ use rechargeables on the EZ but then we aren't really trying to compare batteries here just trying to get you the MAX brightness) and I don't think you will be disappointed. And as far as color tint goes the brighter these get the whiter they tend to get.


----------



## passive101 (Dec 14, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> Are you running the Mini 123 on primaries or rechargeables? If you are using a primary then try a rechargeable (I believe you can_not_ use rechargeables on the EZ but then we aren't really trying to compare batteries here just trying to get you the MAX brightness) and I don't think you will be disappointed. And as far as color tint goes the brighter these get the whiter they tend to get.



Are these lights not working as well with primary cells that rechargeables are brighter?


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 14, 2009)

passive101 said:


> Are these lights not working as well with primary cells that rechargeables are brighter?



They work fine with primary cells and were designed for them. However they are able to safely use a higher voltage rechargeable as long as you hand hold it or keep it from overheating some other way. And like most lights if you feed them a 3.6 volt Li-ion versus a 3 volt primary you will get more light out with most driver circuits.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 14, 2009)

recDNA said:


> I'm a little disappointed with the brightness of my 123 mini (on high) as well as the color. Although the hotspot and spill are smaller in my EZ CR12 they both appear brighter in high than the 123 in high. Granted the mini 123 has a MUCH bigger hotspot and spill but the spill looks dim compaired to the high spill of the EZ Cr2. The EZ CR2 looks whiter too. I suppose the Mini would be better if you want to light an entire room and it's certainly brighter if used as a candle but if you're trying to find something under a table in the dark I'll take the EZCR2.




are you shooting against a wall up close or across a yard?

Unless the EZCR2 if brighter than the Nitecore EZ 123, I can't see how its brighter than the mini 123.

I found the mini was just as bright if not brighter with twice the size of corona and hotspot... "covered twice the area"....

Much more usable light.

If another pocket light had considerably better throw it may be worth a discussion, but lets face it... we are not going deer coon hunting with our pocket lights... a pocket light that lights up a large area "plus" still has the same throw is an awesome combination.


----------



## passive101 (Dec 14, 2009)

I saw someone talked about a neutral LED mini 123 quark. When will this be available and will it be as bright as the current mini 123 I can order? 


Will the neutral LED mini quark use the same LED as the original 2x123 neutral quark that I already have? Or is there a newer upgraded neutral LED on the market? 

I'm debating ordering a current mini 123 or waiting for the neutral version.


----------



## jhc37013 (Dec 14, 2009)

I believe the Mini order's will not ship on the 16th. I ordered a R5 1xAA Tac. and got a e-mail today saying it was on back order so i called to find out how long they said hopefully they will ship next along with with everyone's Mini's she said they have not received a sipping notice from the manufacture but expect to still ship to us sometime next week . Just FYI maybe its already been said idk.


----------



## defloyd77 (Dec 14, 2009)

passive101 said:


> I saw someone talked about a neutral LED mini 123 quark. When will this be available and will it be as bright as the current mini 123 I can order?
> 
> 
> Will the neutral LED mini quark use the same LED as the original 2x123 neutral quark that I already have? Or is there a newer upgraded neutral LED on the market?
> ...



The neutral MiNi's ship out January 6th, they will not be as bright as the regular MiNi's and the tint is Q3-5A3, Cree now has further divided tint bins so you can be more specific as to what you want, the neutral Quarks used Q3-5A's, which is a general grouping so to speak that the neutral MiNi's use, so it will be similar, but it may or may not be identical.

I don't think I did the best job explaining this, hopefully someone else here will do a better job if I just confuse you.


----------



## passive101 (Dec 15, 2009)

I just ordered the Quark 123 mini light for batch 2. In a light I'm going to put on my key chain I'll take as many lumens as I can in a great small package! lovecpf :twothumbs


----------



## lenny (Dec 15, 2009)

Just received my Mini 123 yesterday.
All I can say is WOW!
It's quite a bit smaller than my Fenix P1D, both in dia and length.
Also brighter.
I think the 3 major modes are nice and evenly spaced.
And, as other's have mentioned, the hole for the split ring needs to be larger.
Finish on the light is perfect.
The only negative is that I have to back the head out quite a bit to keep the light from turning on from inadvertent bumps. And with it backed out so far, the head is a little loose on the body.
Perhaps, when the spring relaxes, this won't a problem any more.
Any input on this?
(forgive me if it's already been mentioned in this thread, but I didn't have the time to read thru all 10 pages)
Lenny


----------



## Thujone (Dec 15, 2009)

Wow. Got the AA in the mail yesterday. Perfect tint, tiny, good action, top notch quality. This thing should be on store shelves.


----------



## Nitroz (Dec 15, 2009)

Thujone said:


> Wow. Got the AA in the mail yesterday. Perfect tint, tiny, good action, top notch quality. This thing should be on store shelves.



+1 I'm sure that might happen one of these days, or a least it should.


----------



## LightOnAHill (Dec 15, 2009)

You need some top notch sales men/women to approach the distributors of the companies you want to hit.

But you have to watch out for one thing. CONTRACTS. They will want you to sell it to them at their price, and they'll write into that contract when and how you can raise your price in the future, or if you even can. Say, for example, your input costs go up, and you won't make money any more with the product being sold to that company at that cost, then you're screwed. Your only option to get out of a contract like that is to discontinue your product and re-release it under a new name with some modifications.

Only the big box stores pull this stunt; it's a classic k-mart, walmart, and target move.

Best to negotiate hard to not have these types of terms in the contracts. In the past, the box stores would walk away when somebody tried to get the terms out of the contracts, but in this day of internet sales and shipping, the box stores are learning that they can't screw the other companies and still expect to survive with somewhat quality products. :devil:

Personally, there are some local sporting goods stores (not chains) up here where I live that if I could take in a selection of 4sevens lights, I might be able to get them interested in carrying them. Of course, I'd send back the lights to 4sevens after making the sale, and would only want a small percent of the gross as commission...


----------



## 4sevens (Dec 15, 2009)

LightOnAHill said:


> You need some top notch sales men/women to approach the distributors of the companies you want to hit.
> 
> But you have to watch out for one thing. CONTRACTS. They will want you to sell it to them at their price, and they'll write into that contract when and how you can raise your price in the future, or if you even can. Say, for example, your input costs go up, and you won't make money any more with the product being sold to that company at that cost, then you're screwed. Your only option to get out of a contract like that is to discontinue your product and re-release it under a new name with some modifications.
> 
> ...


This is exactly what we're encountering. Big boxes are so lame. We've been chasing over a dozen and it's been a big fight. Now that we're gaining some momentum (thanks you guys' grassroots-word-of-mouth efforts) they are starting to listen. They are just like banks... When you don't need money, they send you all these credit cards and offers to make loans. When you need money, they are nowhere to be found. At a certain point I think the tide will change for us. Instead of us banging on doors all over the country only to be rejected, they will start knocking on our doors 

Have you ever noticed that maglites at target versus maglites at walmart have different sku's? I wonder if that is one way to get around contracts. Same products, different sku's. :thinking:


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 15, 2009)

4sevens said:


> This is exactly what we're encountering. Big boxes are so lame. We've been chasing over a dozen and it's been a big fight. Now that we're gaining some momentum (thanks you guys' grassroots-word-of-mouth efforts) they are starting to listen. They are just like banks... When you don't need money, they send you all these credit cards and offers to make loans. When you need money, they are nowhere to be found. At a certain point I think the tide will change for us. Instead of us banging on doors all over the country only to be rejected, they will start knocking on our doors
> 
> Have you ever noticed that maglites at target versus maglites at walmart have different sku's? I wonder if that is one way to get around contracts. Same products, different sku's. :thinking:


 
Interesting,very Interesting.

lovecpf


----------



## applevision (Dec 15, 2009)

4sevens said:


> This is exactly what we're encountering. Big boxes are so lame. We've been chasing over a dozen and it's been a big fight. Now that we're gaining some momentum (thanks you guys' grassroots-word-of-mouth efforts) they are starting to listen. They are just like banks... When you don't need money, they send you all these credit cards and offers to make loans. When you need money, they are nowhere to be found. At a certain point I think the tide will change for us. Instead of us banging on doors all over the country only to be rejected, they will start knocking on our doors
> 
> Have you ever noticed that maglites at target versus maglites at walmart have different sku's? I wonder if that is one way to get around contracts. Same products, different sku's. :thinking:



Yay! Go 4sevens! 

I have to say that I feel like part of the family/company since we've been following you guys from the start and supporting the "efforts"... and enjoying the fruits of your labors! It's so cool to see the success come and I know one day we'll see 4sevens' lights at quality box stores... won't that be amazing?! 

Just keep up the great work and keep making awesome, innovative products with high quality and great customer service... and I can promise that we'll keep buying and spreading the word!

I've given our 4 4sevens lights out this Xmas so far... and have 2 more on the way!


----------



## dealgrabber2002 (Dec 15, 2009)

I believed someone asked if there's whining. I recalled hearing whining on the medium mode on my MiNi AA. I didn't find any whining on L or H... only medium.

I got the MiNi AA with a slight greenish tint. But like I said, I carried my E01 for about ~1yr, so the MiNi AA tint is MUCH better than the E01. If you don't wall hunt, you won't notices the greenish tint that much.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 15, 2009)

4sevens said:


> Have you ever noticed that maglites at target versus maglites at walmart have different sku's? I wonder if that is one way to get around contracts. Same products, different sku's. :thinking:



I think sometimes so... but also Walmart will have "slight" modifications made "usually towards being cheaper" so they can advertise that they will match any competitors price "because there is no competition when you make a unique product that has a different sku number"......

You have to be very careful buying TV's or major electronics from them.. they will slightly alter the sku number and it will have lesser ratings and guarantee's and lesser grade parts but look just like the competition and be made by the same manufacturer.

So in answer to your question.. its buyer beware.. sometimes you can get the same thing for cheaper... while other times you get what you pay for... so be careful and do your homework!


----------



## PayBack (Dec 15, 2009)

windstrings said:


> I really like the lobster claws.
> 
> Here is a pic that shows what it looks like. it connects just as easy to the Quark Mini 123....



They're also great for hooking on a belt loop when you keep your EDC in your fob pocket. Those pockets are perfect for EDCs.


----------



## LightCannon (Dec 15, 2009)

Got my Mini123 yesterday!

Came with a slight ding/blemish in the knurling, and as people mentioned above, sometimes one-handed use is impeded by the fact that when i apply a little bit of pressure to one side at a certain time, it activates momentarily, just enough that when I twist it, I miss the low mode altogether.

On the plus side, I LOVE the small form factor, and the knurling. Overall, very happy with this little light.


----------



## Huz (Dec 16, 2009)

Does someone own both 123 and AA? how does the beam compare? is AA more floody?


----------



## ergotelis (Dec 16, 2009)

AA is a bit more floody on hotspot. Not by much but it is. And it logical, its reflector is smaller. I will post in a few minutes lux reading with an 14500 for AA.
Nimh readings for MiniAA as long as RCR123 readings for MINI123 can be read on my previous post.


----------



## Zeruel (Dec 16, 2009)

Got my Mini AA today.
From these beamshots, can anyone guess what battery I was using? :huh:


----------



## jdb (Dec 16, 2009)

rechargeable Ni_MH 1.2V, primary 1.5V, 14500 ?:thinking:


----------



## Zeruel (Dec 16, 2009)

None of the above mentioned.

It's this......


----------



## madmook (Dec 16, 2009)

Enjoy the rattle?


----------



## Zeruel (Dec 16, 2009)

No rattle at all, well, not unless you shake it hard.
Btw, sarcasm is very unbecoming.


----------



## THE_dAY (Dec 16, 2009)

Good to know that in a pinch you can feed it AAA's. Thanks!


----------



## compasillo (Dec 16, 2009)

Zeruel,

Thanks a lot for that useful info. Good to know. :thumbsup:


----------



## ninjaboigt (Dec 16, 2009)

at first glance i thought " hey...why is there sucha big gap between that energizer AA batt and the body tube....then i looked again and it was a AAA LOL...im slow..thats awsome that a AAA can fit in there, i guess the spring is long enough?


----------



## jdb (Dec 16, 2009)

lol - I think your beamshots were with 3 different AA...


----------



## ergotelis (Dec 16, 2009)

Mini AA on high with 14500 lux reading @ 1m : 2370 lux


----------



## Tremendo (Dec 16, 2009)

ergotelis said:


> Mini AA on high with 14500 lux reading @ 1m : 2370 lux


I believe you're reading the spot brightness, not the overall, correct? The Mini AA's focus is on overall light, huge spot and spill.


----------



## HarveyRich (Dec 16, 2009)

> Originally posted by Tremendo:
> I believe you're reading the spot brightness, not the overall, correct? The Mini AA's focus is on overall light, huge spot and spill.


That would be correct. Lux measures point intensity, while lumens measures overall brightness. When the spot is large and the spill is wide, the lumens would be greater.


----------



## ergotelis (Dec 16, 2009)

Exactly,as i said, i posted top lux reading at 1m at the spot. This is a good data for everyone to know how well it throws, not about the total output. Total output is already known by manufacturer.
if you look the previous pages you will see other lux readings i posted about minis AA and 123.


----------



## Tremendo (Dec 16, 2009)

ergotelis said:


> Exactly,as i said, i posted top lux reading at 1m at the spot......if you look the previous pages you will see other lux readings i posted about minis AA and 123.


Gotcha. Since not everybody sees your post from 2 pages before, I put your results here along with the 14500.

SPOT LUX READINGS:
Amp reading on Mini123 with AW123:
High: 1,1amp
Med: 0,19amp
low: 0,01amp
3188 lux on high at 1m for Mini123 with AW123.

Amp reading on Mini AA with eneloop:
high: 0,85amp
med: 0,35amp
low: 0,05 amp
Lux reading on high at 1m MiniAA with eneloop: 756 lux

Mini AA on high with 14500 lux reading @ 1m : 2370 lux


----------



## Stress_Test (Dec 16, 2009)

Sweet! I received my Mini AA in the mail today! Wow, I am REALLY impressed by this light, fantastic performance bargain at only $39!! This is like the flashlight version of the 'ol Pontiac GTO back in the day. Stuff the baddest engine you can into a small body and sell it cheap! 

I've read the "wall of light" comments before describing other lights, and now this light as well, and always rolled my eyes thinking about how exaggerated those descriptions probably were. But no joke, when I kicked this thing on high, the words "wall of light" perfectly describe the feeling! 

I was walking from room to room in my apartment with this light on high and all I could think was "Holy $#!%" and "OMG!!". And this was on a NiMH cell! I'd be afraid to try it on Li-ion, not out of fear of damaging the light, but fear of blowing my mind!  I'm really pumped about this light. I suddenly feel it renders my other 1AA lights almost moot, especially with the inherent reliability of the twist activation. 

The fit/finish of the light is very good as well, with nice thread action. Definitely a step up over the AA Quark Tac that I have. Has 4Sevens been working on improving threads due to customer feedback? Either way, good job on the mechanical aspects of the light. 

For anyone reading and still trying to decide, just buy one. Seriously, it's only $39; it probably cost you more than that to fill your gas tank. Skip the dinner and a movie night a couple of times and you'll have saved enough money to buy this light.


Why are you still reading this? Go. Buy one. Now. You'll like it. :devil:


----------



## ninjaboigt (Dec 16, 2009)

Stress_Test said:


> Why are you still reading this? Go. Buy one. Now. You'll like it. :devil:


 
i came to this thread to see if theres any cons in buying a mini, but once i saw this line i said " ahh forget it, ima just buy it and not waste my time reading.

:twothumbs thanks for saving my time *stress test*!


----------



## Denix (Dec 16, 2009)

Just got my Mini 123 today. Like almost everyone else I'm totally blown away. Tint is on par with my Firefly III, EZAA and Longbow Micra, which means very white, but slightly on the warm side, compared to my Fenix E1 and Arc AAA which are very bluish.

Amazingly bright on RCR123's. The AW cell fits perfectly, but my older RCR123's are a tight fit. In fact one of them got stuck and I was worried that I wouldn't be able to remove it, but the pliers did the trick:twothumbs.

It throws slightly more than my EZAA. It easily lights up objects 25-30 meters away which is pretty good. It might not be a super thrower, but probably more useful in real world usage.

All in all, a remarkable light in a tiny package:thumbsup:

Guy


----------



## madmook (Dec 16, 2009)

I'm waiting on batch 2 of the MiNi's, and I will be using AW 3.2v LiFePO4's. Will the brightness levels be lower than using a 4.2v li-ion RCR123A?


----------



## recDNA (Dec 16, 2009)

windstrings said:


> are you shooting against a wall up close or across a yard?
> 
> Unless the EZCR2 if brighter than the Nitecore EZ 123, I can't see how its brighter than the mini 123.
> 
> ...


 
On high against a wall 2 meters away or across my backyard the mini has a MUCH bigger hotspot and a MUCH bigger spill but the smaller hotspot and spill of the EZ CR2 look brighter. The Mini is more effective at lighting an entire room but the CR2 lights up its smaller spill and hotspot more brightly. 

I Know the Mini is putting out more lumens because used as a candle against the ceiling the room is brighter than the EZ CR2 but for aiming at my car in the parking lot or my contac lens under a table the CR2 is brighter.

At any distance the spill of the Mini is so huge that it is ineffective. From the end of my driveway the spill of the Mini is larger than my entire house. The EZCR2 the size of the garage door. That's why it looks brighter. The OTF lumens are so much greater that I expected Mini to blow away the EZ CR2 in every regard including throw. Keep in mind the EZ CR2 has an even smaller head than the Mini.

Many here have said they can't wait for a warm version. Personally, I can't wait for a white version (warm looks yellow to my eyes). If there were some trick to concentrate the light from the Mini into a smaller radius without making the flashlight bigger that would be great IMO. 

Right now it's the Mini on my keychain but I may switch back to the EZCR2. Not sure yet.

Don't get me wrong. For $39 the Mini is the best bargain of any flashlight I've ever owned or even heard of.


----------



## HeyGuysWatchThis (Dec 16, 2009)

So has anyone come up with a way to put a pocket clip on the Mini 123 yet?


----------



## Flying Turtle (Dec 16, 2009)

Hopefully I got in on batch 2 for a Mini123, but not sure. Ordered last night and status says "backordered". Until arrival I'll just eagerly soak up all this good info from you owners.

Geoff


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 16, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> Hopefully I got in on batch 2 for a Mini123, but not sure. Ordered last night and status says "backordered". Until arrival I'll just eagerly soak up all this good info from you owners.
> 
> Geoff


 
I love my Mini123.You will not be disappointed.:thumbsup:


lovecpf


----------



## passive101 (Dec 17, 2009)

I received an email saying mine is back ordered as well. I'm not sure what that means exactly. I guess we'll find out if we get tracking ID's after the 18th or so.


----------



## Pummy (Dec 17, 2009)

Got my AA and 123 today.

Had an issue with running trustfires in the body and determined it was due to the spring sitting on a "lip" at the bottom of the barrel.

What was happening was that the trustfires are quite long so the order of the items is...

Quark Lip
Spring
Cell

And this was making the pressure to turn the head quite high.

I tried to roll the spring round into a tighter loop so that the spring sat at the very bottom but could not do it easily so opted to cut the spring to reduce the diameter at the botton so it sits inside the pit so to speak.

Now the components are

Quark pit
Spring in pit
Cell.

Now the spring makes full contact with the bottom of the barrel with greater surface area in contact and allows slightly longer cells to be used without undue pressure on the threads. The spring sits approx 1 / 2mm lower now but still has enough give to allow the head to be turned on and off.

Hope that helps anyone who is running cells which are longer than the CR123 standard cell size.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 17, 2009)

Pummy said:


> Got my AA and 123 today.
> 
> Had an issue with running trustfires in the body and determined it was due to the spring sitting on a "lip" at the bottom of the barrel.
> 
> ...


 
Thanks for the info Pummy,

I will give this a try.:twothumbs

lovecpf


----------



## AnAppleSnail (Dec 17, 2009)

Ya'll are making me very sad that my Q35A MiNi AA ships on the 30th. Better shiny than never, eh? This'll kick me to pre-order sooner in the future.


----------



## hron61 (Dec 17, 2009)

ah damn...could'nt resist. ordered my last night. ships on 12/22, guess i just missed batch 2. damn its small, its only 2/3 the size of a bic lighter.
if that aint the definition of a pocket light, i dont know what is. :candle:


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 17, 2009)

AnAppleSnail said:


> Ya'll are making me very sad that my Q35A MiNi AA ships on the 30th. Better shiny than never, eh? This'll kick me to pre-order sooner in the future.



I don't think it would have helped to order the Q3 5A3 earlier than you did. The first neutral MiNis don't ship until the end of the month or beginning of January.


----------



## AnAppleSnail (Dec 17, 2009)

NutSAK said:


> I don't think it would have helped to order the Q3 5A3 earlier than you did. The first neutral MiNis don't ship until the end of the month or beginning of January.



I feel silly. Perhaps my regret should be that I failed to order a regular as well


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 17, 2009)

hron61 said:


> ah damn...could'nt resist. ordered my last night. ships on 12/22, guess i just missed batch 2. damn its small, its only 2/3 the size of a bic lighter.
> if that aint the definition of a pocket light, i dont know what is. :candle:


 


lovecpflovecpflovecpf


----------



## madmook (Dec 17, 2009)

hron61 said:


> ah damn...could'nt resist. ordered my last night. ships on 12/22, guess i just missed batch 2. damn its small, its only 2/3 the size of a bic lighter.
> if that aint the definition of a pocket light, i dont know what is. :candle:


 Well crud from the looks of their website it looks like batch 2 will not be able to ship this week... the chances of getting a MiNi 123 in time for Christmas is looking slimmer and slimmer.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 17, 2009)

madmook said:


> Well crud from the looks of their website it looks like batch 2 will not be able to ship this week... the chances of getting a MiNi 123 in time for Christmas is looking slimmer and slimmer.


----------



## bondr006 (Dec 17, 2009)

Well, I'm joining the waiting party also. Ordered Mini 123 today, ships the 22nd...And, I won't get to lay my hands on it til after I get back from Fla the end of the week after xmas....:ironic:

At least I'll have it before New Years...


----------



## Beamhead (Dec 17, 2009)

Well I can finally join the user club, one of mine showed up today and the other is on deep backorder.
I can see why there is a deep backorder, this Mini 123 is just flat out *BADA$$!!!*
Nothing else to say.


----------



## bondr006 (Dec 17, 2009)

Beamhead said:


> Well I can finally join the user club, one of mine showed up today and the other is on deep backorder.
> I can see why there is a deep backorder, this Mini 123 is just flat out *BADA$$!!!*
> Nothing else to say.







* I want mine! I want mine now...*


----------



## SoCalMan (Dec 17, 2009)

Ordered my MiNi AA on Monday and received it on Wednesday. That's from Georgia to So. Cal with the holiday Postal crunch!!!
Guess I ordered in the nick of time in more ways than one.
It's a real sweet little light, so bummer if you all don't get one before Christmas, otherwise I would just say that it's worth the wait.


----------



## Yapo (Dec 17, 2009)

Just got my mini AA today! Was hoping i would get it today before the weekend and i did! Turns out customs had a peek at it or else i might've gotten it yesterday.

The box for it looks amazing and the light itself is tiny, although i already knew it would be and it doesnt feel like it's a AA light!

I was expecting that it would come with a small key chain clip but instead it came with the regular sized quark lanyard which i cant see why i would attach it to such a tiny pocket light!

As for the beam, the hotspot is fairly smooth and a nice size for normal short-medium range use.

As for the tint of the beam i found that the hotspot is a little on the warm side(especially near the edge of the hotspot) whereas the spill is on the cool side. Does anyone else notice that or is it just me?


----------



## LightWalker (Dec 18, 2009)

Yapo said:


> I was expecting that it would come with a small key chain clip but instead it came with the regular sized quark lanyard which i cant see why i would attach it to such a tiny pocket light!
> 
> 
> > To wear it around your neck.


----------



## lenny (Dec 18, 2009)

Sounds like I'm the only one who got a lemon Mini 123
As I've said earlier, the threads on mine were very loose.
When unscrewing the head to shut off the light, there was enough slop that side to side movement could happen which would turn the light on.
Wouldn't want that happening in my pocket!
And if I backed off the head enough so there was no chance of accidental turn on, the head felt like it was gonna fall off!
Finally, to add insult to injury, the lens rattled like crazy:scowl:
Anyway, I called Mary at 4 Sevens and explained the situation to her.
She very nicely gave me an RA # and said to ship it back for replacement.
Hope I get it before the New Year
Merry Christmas everybody!
Lenny


----------



## get-lit (Dec 18, 2009)

Yapo said:


> As for the tint of the beam i found that the hotspot is a little on the warm side(especially near the edge of the hotspot) whereas the spill is on the cool side. Does anyone else notice that or is it just me?


 
My spill is on the cool side and my beam is pure white. I think the color difference is just a matter of perception. It's probably all the same tint, but the higher intensity of the beam appears whiter. For instance, the sun is a bluer tint than any of these lights, but the sun seems like a much warmer tint than it is because it's so bright. I think the color on mine is as perfect as you can get in a light. I love it.


----------



## HeyGuysWatchThis (Dec 18, 2009)

HeyGuysWatchThis said:


> So has anyone come up with a way to put a pocket clip on the Mini 123 yet?


 
Here's one option. It's interesting, but out of stock right now. I'm also interested in the more traditional clip that actually attaches to the light, too.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 18, 2009)




----------



## combinatorix (Dec 18, 2009)

I'm thinking of getting a mini AA for keychain use. I've never gotten a Quark before though- can anybody speak up for how their anodizing holds up to everyday carry with with keys in the pocket?

I've have a fenix on my keychain for the past few months (hard anodized)- it looks fine from a distance but the corners are pretty beat up on close inspection and the knurling is somewhat worn.


----------



## Stress_Test (Dec 18, 2009)

One thing regarding runtime...

On the 4Sevens web page for the Mini AA, it shows the runtime on medium as 18 hours! That's gotta be a misprint; especially since someone measured a 350mA draw on medium... 

That should give about 5.5 hours of time (roughly), which seems to be close to what I just got tonight. I wasn't really timing it though, and the battery wasn't quite fresh, but still pretty close.

We need some official runtime tests :thinking:


----------



## passive101 (Dec 19, 2009)

Stress_Test said:


> One thing regarding runtime...
> 
> On the 4Sevens web page for the Mini AA, it shows the runtime on medium as 18 hours! That's gotta be a misprint; especially since someone measured a 350mA draw on medium...
> 
> ...




Were you running lithiums or alkalines?


----------



## Stress_Test (Dec 19, 2009)

It was a Nimh; Rayovac Hybrid


----------



## Flying Turtle (Dec 19, 2009)

You must be right, Stress_Test, about the misprint. Comparing it to the Maratac AA, which is rated at medium for 7 hr. @ 18 lumens it's tough to believe it could do 18 hr. @ 25 lumens.

Geoff


----------



## regulator (Dec 19, 2009)

My MiniAA current readings were pretty much the same as Tremedo's. So I would guess at medium runtime of about 5.5 hours on an Eneloop and about 8 hours with an Energizer lithium - at regulated output. Not bad considering the amount of output.

You would probably get over 3 hours on high with an lithium and over two with on Eneloop. Not bad IMO. I like the levels choosen for this light.


----------



## Stress_Test (Dec 19, 2009)

Yeah, the current draw on high was less than I expected. (Was it 850 mA? can't remember)

Anyway, that would be great to get about 2 hours on the high mode.

If I get the chance tonight I'll face off the Mini AA versus my Fenix L1D Q5. That should be a pretty good comparo, because for a while, the Q5 Fenix lights really set the standard for efficiency.

In theory, in a matchup between Mini and L1D, the R5 should slay the Q5 easily (either longer runtime or brighter), but we shall see


----------



## compasillo (Dec 19, 2009)

I've just got my two minis AA. 
The greenish tint is very very noticable, much more when compairing to a Maratac AAA or a Nitecore PD/EX.


----------



## Stress_Test (Dec 19, 2009)

Yeah, I was surprised by the tint too. With pretty much all my other lights I'm indifferent to the tint, but this was noticeable even to me. 

Maybe these were discount R5s. j/k

Anyway, for the light's intended mission I don't consider the green tint to be much of a liability.


----------



## gbelleh (Dec 19, 2009)

I haven't gotten my Mini 123 yet. I'm still hoping for white, but I'd much rather have a greenish tint than bluish. 

I kind of like the greenish tint of my LF3XT.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 19, 2009)

So does anybody else have the same foreign substance on the inside side of the lens of your Mini AA?

Inquiry minds want to know.:naughty:


----------



## compasillo (Dec 19, 2009)

Lightcrazycanuck said:


> So does anybody else have the same foreign substance on the inside side of the lens of your Mini AA?
> 
> Inquiry minds want to know.:naughty:



Don't worry too much. I don't think that's a common issue at all.
Lenses in both mine are OK


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 19, 2009)

Unfortunately I have one


----------



## compasillo (Dec 19, 2009)

Lightcrazycanuck said:


> Unfortunately I have one



Bad luck!
Send it back for an exchange (after Christmas though...)


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Dec 19, 2009)

This light is obviously a bigtime smash hit, we've got a twelve page thread, and no OUTDOOR BEAMSHOTS yet?!

I think I'll probably buy this light even if I don't see any though!


----------



## ikelo (Dec 19, 2009)

i'm planning on buying one, but would love to see a comparison between the 123 and a p1d Q5.


----------



## recDNA (Dec 19, 2009)

Stress_Test said:


> Yeah, the current draw on high was less than I expected. (Was it 850 mA? can't remember)
> 
> Anyway, that would be great to get about 2 hours on the high mode.
> 
> ...


 
I've complained about brightness in my mini 123 and I just noticed it doesn't get hot on high - only warm. I wonder if I'm getting the draw I should on high. Is my mini defective?


----------



## windstrings (Dec 19, 2009)

recDNA said:


> I've complained about brightness in my mini 123 and I just noticed it doesn't get hot on high - only warm. I wonder if I'm getting the draw I should on high. Is my mini defective?



Thats such a subject feedback element, its hard to determine what your asking...... those little lights have very little mass... therefore it doesn't take long for the light to get warm.....

If your holding it, you hand should dissipate heat well enough that it doesn't overwhelm the heat dissipation abilities of your hand and get hot.

Whats the outside temperature?... how long is it left on?
Is it laying by itself on a counter while its on?

All those make a pretty bid difference on how hot it will get......

I haven't tested mine, but laying it on a counter on full power on a hot day with 80+ ambient temperature with no wind, I would expect it would be pretty hot in 10 minutes.... but thats rarely the case... usually we are holding them or turning them on and off or even.


----------



## Burgess (Dec 19, 2009)

Let's see if 4Sevens' website *corrects* the MiNi AA run-time on Medium.

:sigh:
_


----------



## edc3 (Dec 20, 2009)

Dude Dudeson said:


> This light is obviously a bigtime smash hit, we've got a twelve page thread, and no OUTDOOR BEAMSHOTS yet?!
> 
> I think I'll probably buy this light even if I don't see any though!



I didn't take any beamshots, but I got a chance to use my MiNi 123 "for real" outdoors last Friday. I walked down a trail in the dark to replace a geocache that needed maintenance. Medium was perfect for navigating and I used the low level to stealthily place the cache. High lit up the trail from side to side and far ahead. This was the only light I needed (although I brought three others with me). Don't wait for the beamshots, buy one! :twothumbs


----------



## compasillo (Dec 20, 2009)

edc3 said:


> .../... Don't wait for the beamshots, buy one! :twothumbs



Or even two...
The form factor, smooth operation, well spaced modes (including hidden strobe/beacon), XP-G, etc... make it a winner


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Dec 20, 2009)

compasillo said:


> Or even two...
> The form factor, smooth operation, well spaced modes (including hidden strobe/beacon), XP-G, etc... make it a winner



Yeah, pulling the trigger on this one tomorrow (payday).

This will be my third "CPF made me do it" light since I joined up here. I think my resistance to the disease is falling lol!


----------



## dealgrabber2002 (Dec 20, 2009)

I would be very disappointed if the MiNi AA runs only 5.5 hrs on medium. The main reason I purchased it is for the long runtime on medium. 

I remembered 4sevens corrected the runtime on high for the MiNi CR123... 4sevens should of caught such a big different in runtime on medium for the AA... I really want to know which is the right runtime on medium for the AA.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 20, 2009)

compasillo said:


> Bad luck!
> Send it back for an exchange (after Christmas though...)


 
Yep after Christmas it will be.:shakehead


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Dec 20, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I would be very disappointed if the MiNi AA runs only 5.5 hrs on medium.


 
Seriously? Considering the battery mentioned with that number (and the fact that it wasn't fully topped off) it doesn't sound all that bad to me...


----------



## Burgess (Dec 20, 2009)

Until you realize 4Sevens claimed it would last* 18* hours on an Alkaline.


I'm very disappointed, also.

:sigh:



What's the "inside story", David ?

:candle:
_


----------



## MS3 (Dec 20, 2009)

HeyGuysWatchThis said:


> So has anyone come up with a way to put a pocket clip on the Mini 123 yet?


I ordered an ITP A1 today that I read in another thread can be lego'd with the mini123. It has a clip. I hate to do this to my first quark, but my edc is always with a clip. 

I think I am now a confirmed flasaholic. I thought I had gotten myself sobered up as my collection has been steady at 13 lights for a few months now. Then my wife was using one of my lights for a play at church and mentioned she really needed another just like it. Well, I had to order another light - she said we needed it - and after I ordered that one then I read about the mini123 and had to order that - it is christmas afterall - then I needed a clip for the mini123 and so I ordered the ITP A1..... I fell off the wagon. Hello, my name is Mark and I am a flashaholic


----------



## Tremendo (Dec 20, 2009)

Burgess said:


> Until you realize 4Sevens claimed it would last* 18* hours on an Alkaline.


I'm not defending anyone, but I'm happy with my 3 1/2 hours on the Mini AA on Medium with 14500 because it is still very bright. Maybe they decided to boost up the Medium level a bit after he had the early runtime numbers.


----------



## get-lit (Dec 20, 2009)

*My impressions of the Mini 123 have changed.* It's funny how my initial impressions of something new can change with some time. When I first got it, I thought it was an immediate replacement for my favorite Fenix P1D CE Q5 for EDC. After using the new Mini for a good while (long enough to forget what my P1D was like), I picked up my P1D and immediately preferred it over the mini. There are some things that really struck me much differently this time that made me pull a 180. Each of the differences were very significant to me.

The first thing that I noticed with the P1D this time is that I didn't have to struggle with skipped modes. With each twist of the P1D, it did exactly as I expected, without having to finagle it, or twist it a certain exact way and hope.

The second thing I noticed this time around is that I really prefer much more the threads on the P1D. They feel consistent and reliable, whereas the Mini threads felt a bit sloppy. As I un-twist the Mini, it gets looser and looser (I know looser is not a word but I don't care), it gets looser until the head wobbles. And you have to turn the Mini to the point at which it becomes wobbly in order to ensure that the light remains off when being pressed on the head.

That's another huge difference. The P1D is much less sensitive to inadvertently turning on when pressed on the head. Overall, it feels much more solid, consistent, and reliable. The threads are noticeably tighter on the P1D, but with a bit of lithium grease the threads on the P1D are perfect. With the Mini, I worry that the threads are becoming more and more loose as I use it. I don't get the impression when using the P1D, and it's been used for long time already.

I also prefer the beam of the P1D over the Mini. Not everyone is a fan of a tight thrower beam, but I am. The P1D is very much noticeably better in that area. It lights up a shed down the road that the Mini can't even touch. Of course the Mini has better spill, but that's not my deal. I like throw. With a ceiling bounce test, they both seem to light the room roughly the same. If there is any advantage to the Mini in the ceiling bounce test, it's not enough for me to notice.

Now as for tint this time around, this is where I realized that talking about tint is always like comparing apples to oranges. Because the tints vary so much from sample to sample of the same LED, there's not much point to comparing tint. I have two lights with the XPG bin 5; the the Quark Mini and the Quark Ti 123. The differ drastically. The Ti is very much green and the Mini seems purely white in comparison. I also have three Fenix P1D CE Q5 lights, and they vary even more. Among the three P1D's, the tint of one in particular stands out as the best by far among all of my lights. The other two P1D's have tints that are better than the Quark Ti, but not as good as the Mini, so it's all a big gamble. I'm just lucky to have gotten such a great tint from one of my three three P1Ds. That one has been my EDC before I got the Mini, and it is again now that I've compared it to the Mini again.

The Mini is generously smaller than the P1D, but the P1D is already plenty small enough for me to not know I even have it in my pocket. Also, the Mini has a much better use of brightness levels than the P1D. The first two modes on the P1D seem almost the same. The Mini has very nicely spaced brightness levels. Some people also like how the Mini starts on low, then medium, then high. I actually prefer Medium first because it's the level I use most, so I don't have to do mode changes for most typical use with the P1D.

After having a few XPG lights now, I don't feel that they are an improvement. It's more of a lateral move from tight throw to a great medium flood. The Mini surely can't be beat in price, but after a long enough time to compare, I don't feel that the Mini is an improvement over the P1D CE Q5, and I will be sticking with the P1D CE Q5 for my EDC. I've modded one of my P1Ds to use direct mode for ultimate throw, and I may do it with my favorite P1D as well.

Although the Mini is not the ticket for me any longer, 4Sevens always has something up their sleeves, and I will always be watching because I have a feeling that they will soon change the game and blow everyone's minds with the next big thing. It's only a matter of time.


----------



## jhc37013 (Dec 20, 2009)

get-lit said:


> "I picked up my P1D and immediately preferred it over the mini"



Have you tried the PD10 yet?


----------



## compasillo (Dec 21, 2009)

Burgess said:


> Until you realize 4Sevens claimed it would last* 18* hours on an Alkaline.
> 
> 
> I'm very disappointed, also.
> ...



I think 18 hrs. runtime is a typo that no one at 4Sevens did take care to correct (why? - that belongs to the "inside story" as you call it).
If you compaire it to another very similar flashlights (i.e. Maratac AA, ITP A2) with an XP-E, the runtime is 7 hrs, wich leads me to think the true data, at least in the data sheet, for the Qmini AA could be 8 hrs as an ideal max value, and not 18... (that's just a theory).
However, is not bad for me 6 - 8 hrs runtime at 25 lm


----------



## lenny (Dec 21, 2009)

get-lit said:


> The second thing I noticed this time around is that I really prefer much more the threads on the P1D. They feel consistent and reliable, whereas the Mini threads felt a bit sloppy. As I un-twist the Mini, it gets looser and looser (I know looser is not a word but I don't care), it gets looser until the head wobbles. And you have to turn the Mini to the point at which it becomes wobbly in order to ensure that the light remains off when being pressed on the head.
> 
> That's another huge difference. The P1D is much less sensitive to inadvertently turning on when pressed on the head. Overall, it feels much more solid, consistent, and reliable. The threads are noticeably tighter on the P1D, but with a bit of lithium grease the threads on the P1D are perfect. With the Mini, I worry that the threads are becoming more and more loose as I use it. I don't get the impression when using the P1D, and it's been used for long time already.


 
This is exactly why i sent mine back for replacement.
Wonder if the replacement will be any better?
Lenny


----------



## Frank_Zuccarini (Dec 21, 2009)

I agree with Get-Lit's comments.

My P1D remains a very nice light, superiour in many ways to the Mini 123.

Frank


----------



## get-lit (Dec 21, 2009)

jhc37013 said:


> Have you tried the PD10 yet?


 
No, I only have 5 fingers on my hand so I can't deal with twisting the tail. I still think the Quark Mini is the keycahin king. It's insanely small and much lighter than the P1D which are HUGE pluses, but the P1D is already small and light enough for me for in my pocket. I've already spent too much money this year on EDC lights. I'm very happy with what I've got after playing the tint lotto so much already, and I think I'll save some money for now and wait for the next big thing to come out over the next few years. The Mini will make a wonderful Christmas gift. I really have to end my EDC madness for a bit :naughty:


----------



## passive101 (Dec 21, 2009)

My Mini 123 shipped today. Received the tracking number. :twothumbs


----------



## gbelleh (Dec 21, 2009)

Me too. But I doubt mine will arrive by Wednesday.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 21, 2009)

My Mini came apart in my pocket when I pulled my keys out, my battery fell on the ground leaving the head in my pocket.

I agree, the threading it not quite as superb as the Nitecore or the P1D, but the final performance outweighs that little issue for me.....

Its true its not an all in all light, but its close.. given the small size and exceptional output... especially with Lithiums in it.

Its not like this cost 70.00+ dollars or anything, as would be expected for most cutting edge lights with this type of performance.

A little think lithium grease would probably do the trick to sure things up anyway if I have another problem.

I expect Nitecore will follow suit in the near future..... the beauty of free enterprise and the American Way!.... better enjoy it while we can!


----------



## Flying Turtle (Dec 21, 2009)

Woo Hoo. Mine went out today, too. Keeping my fingers crossed for tight threads and no green. I think we'll have them by Wed. or Thurs.

Geoff


----------



## parnass (Dec 21, 2009)

windstrings said:


> My Mini came apart in my pocket when I pulled my keys out, my battery fell on the ground leaving the head in my pocket.
> 
> I agree, the threading it not quite as superb as the Nitecore or the P1D, but the final performance outweighs that little issue for me.........



Have you tried wrapping teflon plumber's tape around the threads to take up the slack?


----------



## windstrings (Dec 21, 2009)

parnass said:


> Have you tried wrapping teflon plumber's tape around the threads to take up the slack?




Not a bad idea!... I'll start checking more often and if its getting loose, I like that idea better.

While its smooth when in contact with the O ring, it only takes one full turn from when the light turns off to be off the O rings and then it turns quite easily.... the tape may do the trick.

Since you can't have it too close to on or it turns on with pressure due to the coarse threads, I have it backed off about 1/4 turn to prevent the light from accidently coming on in my pocket.. that leaves only 3/4 turn of grace before it will easily turn without the friction of the O ring.

I think the solution fix for the next generation is to have finer threads.. this will allow more turns before loosing contact with the O ring and it will also take out the the forward/ backwards slop that makes it turn on with pressure if its not turned back at least 1/4 turn.

I think a little plumbers tape will fix this one though for a more snug fit in the threads until it makes contact with the O ring.

thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## LightWalker (Dec 21, 2009)

windstrings said:


> My Mini came apart in my pocket when I pulled my keys out, my battery fell on the ground leaving the head in my pocket.
> 
> I agree, the threading it not quite as superb as the Nitecore or the P1D, but the final performance outweighs that little issue for me.....
> 
> ...


 
If you use the gray Ultrafire 880mah Li-ion battery it puts enough tension on the head that you don't have to back the head off as much and it will not activate in your pocket as easily as some of the shorter batteries such as AW and primaries. The longer Ultrafire battery prevents mode skips better also.


----------



## HarveyRich (Dec 21, 2009)

> Originally posted by *Lightwalker*:
> If you use the gray Ultrafire 880mah Li-ion battery it puts enough tension on the head that you don't have to back the head off as much and it will not activate in your pocket as easily as some of the shorter batteries such as AW and primaries. The longer Ultrafire battery prevents mode skips better also.


There must be variation across samples, since my MiNi123 works fine. The light is off when the threads are quite tight and I've had no problems with skipped modes either. It won't go on with pressure on the head and I've used it with protected Trustfire, Ultrafire, and AW batteries. Personally, it's just great, and puts out a huge amount of light. Granted the throw isn't quite as far as some other lights, but at 70 feet, in my back yard, it clearly lights up an much larger area in the back than the tightly focused throwers.


----------



## passive101 (Dec 21, 2009)

Would the teflon plumbers tape stop the connection to make the light not work or would that not be a problem for this design?


----------



## HKJ (Dec 21, 2009)

passive101 said:


> Would the teflon plumbers tape stop the connection to make the light not work or would that not be a problem for this design?



I do not have the minis yet (Due to a shipping error), but I would expect the connection to be from the top of the tube, directly to the circuit board (That is the way twisties usual are designed). I.e. the threads does not carry any current and as long as you do not put any tape on the top of the tube, the light will work.


----------



## LightWalker (Dec 21, 2009)

HarveyRich said:


> There must be variation across samples, since my MiNi123 works fine. The light is off when the threads are quite tight and I've had no problems with skipped modes either. It won't go on with pressure on the head and I've used it with protected Trustfire, Ultrafire, and AW batteries. Personally, it's just great, and puts out a huge amount of light. Granted the throw isn't quite as far as some other lights, but at 70 feet, in my back yard, it clearly lights up an much larger area in the back than the tightly focused throwers.


 
The only mode skipping I have experienced is when I twisted very slowly and there was a double contact, it does not happen with a quick twist.


----------



## dealgrabber2002 (Dec 21, 2009)

I got an email from 4sevens/Trevor. Regarding the runtime on MiNi AA on medium is not a typo. That is the result the factory got when they did the runtime test.


----------



## defloyd77 (Dec 21, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I got an email from 4sevens/Trevor. Regarding the runtime on MiNi AA on medium is not a typo. That is the result the factory got when they did the runtime test.



WOW, did they mention what kind of battery they used?

How the heck is the MiNi getting 25 for 18 when the regular R5 AA gets 22 for 6?


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Dec 21, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I got an email from 4sevens/Trevor. Regarding the runtime on MiNi AA on medium is not a typo. That is the result the factory got when they did the runtime test.


 
As much buzz as there is here surrounding this light I figure someone will do an exhaustive review before long.

It'll be interesting to see how that pans out.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 21, 2009)

passive101 said:


> Would the teflon plumbers tape stop the connection to make the light not work or would that not be a problem for this design?



Thats a fair question... since the spring at the bottom that makes contact with the negative portion of the battery and then conducts through the casing to contact with the positive touching the top circuit board.

One wrap stretched thin is what I plan to try.... if only one thread contacts that will be enough as this is very low amperage respectively.

this would be a cool light in a stainless version... with a gold ban of course!

The PD10 Ti looks tasty!

As my good buddy Clint one said.. only "For a few dollars more"!.... 


> • Cree XP-G LED (R5) with lifespan of 50,000 hours
> • Optimized circuit with large reflector throw 96 meters long lighting beam
> • Exquisite appearance with compact size
> • Three levels of brightness:
> ...


----------



## Tremendo (Dec 21, 2009)

It seems there are some issues with the Mini 123 and the threads. I have 7 Mini AA's and the threads are perfect. My Mini AA EDC gets used and abused already, and the threads are as good as they could be still, nice and tight like day 1, and also very smooth. I can't even imagine any wobbling on any of my Mini AA's.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Dec 21, 2009)

defloyd77 said:


> WOW, did they mention what kind of battery they used?
> 
> How the heck is the MiNi getting 25 for 18 when the regular R5 AA gets 22 for 6?


 
The AA Quark medium runtime is wrong on 4sevens listings. The runtime on medium is more like 11-13 hours depending on the battery used, of course. Selfbuilt among others have done runtime tests confirming this. The Quark review by Selfbuilt has runtime graphs for the AA quark. The R5 Quarks runtime should be roughly the same because the circuit hasn't changed from the regular Quark line and the Vf is almost the same as well.


----------



## kwkarth (Dec 21, 2009)

I currently have a mini-123 and a mini-AA and the 123 has a very wobbly head, and the AA does not. The AA model does jump modes quite often if I'm not careful with it.


----------



## JWP_EE (Dec 21, 2009)

A picture of my latest LED flashlight next to my first LED flashlight I purchased about 10 year ago. Can you tell which is which? :nana:


----------



## 4sevens (Dec 21, 2009)

^^ Hey! I used to have one of those!


----------



## alanjeep (Dec 21, 2009)

get-lit said:


> No, I only have 5 fingers on my hand so I can't deal with twisting the tail. I still think the Quark Mini is the keycahin king. It's insanely small and much lighter than the P1D which are HUGE pluses, but the P1D is already small and light enough for me for in my pocket. I've already spent too much money this year on EDC lights. I'm very happy with what I've got after playing the tint lotto so much already, and I think I'll save some money for now and wait for the next big thing to come out over the next few years. The Mini will make a wonderful Christmas gift. I really have to end my EDC madness for a bit :naughty:


 From what I understand, the PD10 is a head twisty just like the P1D.


----------



## alanjeep (Dec 21, 2009)

JWP_EE said:


> A picture of my latest LED flashlight next to my first LED flashlight I purchased about 10 year ago. Can you tell which is which? :nana:


 I like the large lanyard hole. Wish the Mini had one.


----------



## dealgrabber2002 (Dec 21, 2009)

defloyd77 said:


> WOW, did they mention what kind of battery they used?
> 
> How the heck is the MiNi getting 25 for 18 when the regular R5 AA gets 22 for 6?



IIRC, the runtime was stated using alkaline.


----------



## JWP_EE (Dec 21, 2009)

4sevens said:


> ^^ Hey! I used to have one of those!




A Q MiNi AA? I would hope so.


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Dec 21, 2009)

I hope these'll be in stock tomorrow like the website says. Was going to pull the trigger today until I saw that - I'm just not a pre-order type of guy.


----------



## photonstorm (Dec 21, 2009)

The MiNi 123 are in stock. Mine shipped early today.
Guess they didn't update the website.


----------



## regulator (Dec 21, 2009)

I still have the first CMG Infinity but it does not work anymore. I remember how cool it was to run a white LED on only one AA battery. Back in those days you had to use multiple batteries to get the required voltage for the LED because there were not yet step up regulators.

It is amazing how far the technology has come. The MiniAA is quite remarkable when you compare it to the Inifinity.


----------



## Beamhead (Dec 22, 2009)

I just got my back ordered mini 123 and the tint is a hair greener compared to the other and the spot a hair tighter. The green tint in these from my experience is no where near the cat urine green of LED's past, in fact it is rather warm and pleasant in real world use.

As for complaints of sloppy threads causing mode skipping, go out to your garage and grab a nut and bolt, I know you all have some, observe that even on fine threaded pairs until the nut turns tight against something there is play, that is the nature of machined threads.

On flashlights, particularly twisty with modes that play can be 1 of 2 factors that cause mode skipping.

The mini uses a weak spring that must collapse completely into itself due to the lack of room. You can stretch the spring (being careful not to deform it) causing greater resistance against the threads in most cases curing the mode skipping issue, just make sure to lube the threads well to prevent wear. I like the loctite krytox grease.

If that still hasn't cured the mode skipping you can use 2 wraps of teflon tape on the threads, it fills the voids that allow play, just make sure to carefully cut any telfon that covers the very end of the body so the electrical path can be unimpeded.

I love my 2 mini123's.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 22, 2009)

Beamhead said:


> As for complaints of sloppy threads causing mode skipping, go out to your garage and grab a nut and bolt, I know you all have some, observe that even on fine threaded pairs until the nut turns tight against something there is play, that is the nature of machined threads.



Good points Beamhead....thanks


----------



## Joe Talmadge (Dec 22, 2009)

I just got mine yesterday (123A version). Spent a bunch of time absent-mindedly turning it on and off, trying to get it to skip modes, but couldn't get it to do so in anything like real use for me (YMMV). Then I specifically looked for the "noisy spot", and when I did so I found it, just a little jiggle across that spot sends the light across all modes and out into the hidden modes. But as long as I never hit that spot in real use, I have no worries; time will tell. 

The threads are a little loose, but not alarmingly so, so again, as long as the thing never unscrews itself in my pocket, I'm fine... time will tell. I do like the fact that I can operate the thing one-handed versus my P1D which requires two. 

Balancing that is very well-placed and well-chosen levels, tiny size and amazing output. It's one of those things where the first time I put it on high, I had to smile ... I might've actually audibly giggled, I'm not sure  One day isn't nearly enough to come to a firm opinion, but a tentative two thumbs up right now.


----------



## scintillator (Dec 22, 2009)

A nice carrying option is AW's little holster,it fits the mini-Q 123 with a little stretching.



:thumbsup:


----------



## JeffN (Dec 22, 2009)

Beamhead said:


> As for complaints of sloppy threads causing mode skipping, go out to your garage and grab a nut and bolt, I know you all have some, observe that even on fine threaded pairs until the nut turns tight against something there is play, that is the nature of machined threads.


 
Yesterday I received the Mini AA I ordered after receiving a Mini 123 last week, and the threads on the lights match those described by other users. The 123 has significant play while the AA is nice and tight (and turns nicely with one hand).

I can turn the AA just past the "off" point and flexing the head will not turn it on -- the 123 has to be turned much further to keep it off. When I first received the 123, putting it back in the box compressed the threads and turned it on -- to prevent that it had to be twisted far enough to where it would not fit in the box without being pressed in. That is not the case with the AA. It's not that the 123 threads are poorly cut -- the AA threads are just much better. Really amazing considering how thin the walls are.

Both lights put out crazy amounts of light using AW black rechargeables -- the AA has already replaced a Jet-1 MK IBS as my EDC.


----------



## HarveyRich (Dec 22, 2009)

> Originally Posted by* JeffN:*
> the 123 has to be turned much further to keep it off. When I first received the 123, putting it back in the box compressed the threads and turned it on -- to prevent that it had to be twisted far enough to where it would not fit in the box without being pressed in.


 
On my MiNi 123, the light does come on when pressing the head to the side after twisting it off just past the turn on point. However, it only takes about 1/4 turn to get past that point. So, a 1/4 turn past the on point will prevent one from accidentally pushing it on. That's really not that far IMHO. In my "paranoia" about lit pants and hot lights, I always turn my twisties a bit to make sure they don't accidentally turn on in my pocket.


----------



## JeffN (Dec 22, 2009)

You might want to edit your post so Beamhead doesn't take any heat for words I posted.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 22, 2009)

Well, I couldn't resist the beauty of the Fenix PD 10 ti.... when I arrives Ill do a mini review "no pun intended" of it verses the Mini 123.


----------



## Purpleorchid (Dec 22, 2009)

I got my MiNi 123 yesterday and I love it! It's more powerful than any of my other 9 flashlights! Cheers to 4Sevens and CPF for introducing me to this awesome mini pocket rocket!


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 22, 2009)

Beamhead said:


> As for complaints of sloppy threads causing mode skipping, go out to your garage and grab a nut and bolt, I know you all have some, observe that even on fine threaded pairs until the nut turns tight against something there is play, that is the nature of machined threads.




There should be tolerance differences between well machined products and cheap nuts and bolts. I have owned MANY lights from one particular american flashlight company and none of them have ever had slop in the threads, so you can't tell me that it's just the nature of threads. Nuts and bolts are designed to be tightened down and left alone, so the product doesn't require tight tolerances, it just has to meet torque specs. To function properly, a twisty flashlight switch requires tighter tolerances and, from my experience, that can be accomplished.


----------



## Beamhead (Dec 22, 2009)

NutSAK said:


> There should be tolerance differences between well machined products and cheap nuts and bolts. I have owned MANY lights from one particular american flashlight company and none of them have ever had slop in the threads, so you can't tell me that it's just the nature of threads. Nuts and bolts are designed to be tightened down and left alone, so the product doesn't require tight tolerances, just torque specs. A twisty flashlight switch requires tighter tolerances and, from my experience, that can be accomplished.


 
Agreed but please give examples of lights with tight threads.


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 22, 2009)

Beamhead said:


> Agreed but please give examples of lights with tight threads.



Peak McKinley, Peak Pacific, Peak First Responder, Peak Carribean, etc. I think you see the pattern here...

You can turn the heads of all of these flashlights out about 1/8 of a turn, and they will never come on due to side or frontal force on the head.


----------



## Beamhead (Dec 22, 2009)

Are they tight without the o ring installed? Do they use foam rings? No play at all?


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 22, 2009)

Beamhead said:


> Are they tight without the o ring installed? Do they use foam rings? No play at all?



I didn't say the threads were "tight". On the contrary, they are smooth, but have much tighter tolerances than any Quark I've handled. There is much less "slop" in the threads of the Peak when no orings are installed. A spring or foam ring will make no difference in these tolerances. For instance, the Q123 I have on my person today requires more than 1/4 turn out to ensure the head doesn't contact the body with force and change modes. 

Do I think the tolerance of my Q123 is bad? No. But, many of the people here are complaining that the MiNi 123 head has to be twisted out quite far to ensure that the switch doesn't engage when force is applied to the head. That is a tolerance issue that can be remedied with proper machining.


----------



## Beamhead (Dec 22, 2009)

NutSAK said:


> I didn't say the threads were "tight". On the contrary, they are smooth, but have much tighter tolerances than any Quark I've handled. There is much less "slop" in the threads of the Peak when no orings are installed. A spring or foam ring will make no difference in these tolerances. For instance, the Q123 I have on my person today requires more than 1/4 turn out to ensure the head doesn't contact the body with force and change modes.
> 
> Do I think the tolerance of my Q123 is bad? No. But, many of the people here are complaining that the MiNi 123 head has to be twisted out quite far to ensure that the switch doesn't engage when force is applied to the head. That is a tolerance issue that can be remedied with proper machining.


 
I have many US made even custom lights with loose threads.
I disagree that foam rings don't help, they provide the needed back pressure to make some twisty lights ride the inner edge of the threads, like the Fenix p1, and NC EZ series.

The mini's suffer because of no foam ring and a weak spring, which is why I posted 2 things that would help.
Could they be machined better, sure but at what cost and what true help with a weak spring.
Do you have a mini? Those who find their mini to be too loose can get an rma, I was just pointing out some remedies.


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 22, 2009)

Beamhead said:


> I disagree that foam rings don't help, they provide the needed back pressure to make some twisty lights ride the inner edge of the threads, like the Fenix p1, and NC EZ series.



So, a stiffer spring or foam ring in a twisty light gives enough back pressure against the head, so that if I pushed down on the head towards the body, it would prevent the light from coming on? Yes, we certainly disagree on that point. Will it increase the force required? Yes, slightly, but not to a degree that it would ensure the light didn't come on in a pocket while you're sitting down, for example. Not to mention a negative effect of a stiff spring, which is to increase the effort required to rotate the head.

No, I don't have a MiNi. I was just commenting about your comparison of flashlight threads to nuts and bolts. I also have other American and custom-made lights with loose thread tolerances, but I don't think loose tolerances are something that you just expect from all machined threads.


----------



## Beamhead (Dec 22, 2009)

NutSAK said:


> So, a stiffer spring or foam ring in a twisty light gives enough back pressure against the head, so that if I pushed down on the head towards the body, it would prevent the light from coming on? Yes, we certainly disagree on that point. Will it increase the force required? Yes, slightly, but not to a degree that it would ensure the light didn't come on in a pocket while you're sitting down, for example.
> 
> No, I don't have a MiNi. I was just commenting about your comparison of flashlight threads to nuts and bolts.


 
Well it has, in my experience it works. :shrug:
And on most lights regardless of where they are manufactured my comparison still stands.


----------



## parnass (Dec 22, 2009)

:welcome: Welcome to CPF, Purpleorchid.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 22, 2009)

Purpleorchid said:


> I got my MiNi 123 yesterday and I love it! It's more powerful than any of my other 9 flashlights! Cheers to 4Sevens and CPF for introducing me to this awesome mini pocket rocket!



Yes, welcome to cpf!.....

I hope you saved some money for your after Christmas appetite!

As awesome as the Mini 123 is for a very tiny pocket rocket, there are lots of lights that are of equal quality but much bigger and more powerful...
We don't want to even talk about the HID world!

boy do I feel sorry for you!... I'm glad I'm not your accountant!... :laughing:

You see my signature... I just keep upgrading and upgrading and giving away or selling my refuse!.... LOL!.... its a sick maddening disease... Help! :sick2:


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Dec 22, 2009)

Finally just ordered mine, can't wait!

Unfortunately it'll probably show up while I'm out of town for Christmas - assuming they're actually in stock as of now that is.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Dec 22, 2009)

I just got my 123 yesterday, I am guessing from the second batch.

There are no smudges on the window, the threads arent sloppy at all, they wiggle a lil bit, but no more than any other light. 

The tint on mine doesnt seem green to me, it is quite nice. 

I love this light, for the price, it cannot be beat. :naughty:


----------



## Purpleorchid (Dec 22, 2009)

Thanks for the welcome. My 9 flashlights are a wide range:
D Maglite for bedroom
C Maglite for car
AA Maglite w/ LED upgrade for glovebox
Emergency crank flashlight
Another smaller emergency crank
Inova X01
Petzl Tikka XP headlamp
Solar powered flashlight
A hand crank pig flashlight
A FisherPrice monkey flashlight I got as a gift (it's fun, you squeeze it's tail, the mouth opens to reveal the light while it makes monkey sounds)
A couple Photon-Xs
AAA Maglite which I gave to my mom so I wouldn't feel as guilty buying...
Quark MiNi 123!

So far, the most expensive light I own is the Quark and the Petzl headlamp, but if there's a Quark MiNi Titanium made, that would be the most expensive light! 

I saw a post on how to upgrade the Petzl...too bad I don't have a soldering gun. 

Off to play with the MiNi!


I guess that's more than 9...oops.


----------



## kaichu dento (Dec 23, 2009)

Beamhead said:


> Agreed but please give examples of lights with tight threads.


Just grabbing a couple lights in front of me, my Arc-P, Quark RGB and especially my SS Maratac! 


NutSAK said:


> There should be tolerance differences between well machined products and cheap nuts and bolts.


There are huge differences indeed! 


Beamhead said:


> I have many US made even custom lights with loose threads.


Me too; my titanium LF2XT has the loosest threads of any of the lights within reach at the moment, but it doesn't matter since it's not a twisty.

I think you guys both made some good points here and am really hoping that my MiNi AAw's are tight like prom night! :huh:


----------



## strinq (Dec 23, 2009)

:welcome: Purpleorchid!

Glad u like the mini. 
I'm still waiting for stable finances before i nab one.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 23, 2009)

strinq said:


> Glad u like the mini.
> I'm still waiting for stable finances before i nab one.




Sounds like your newly married!


----------



## T-3 (Dec 23, 2009)

JUST ordered two of the 123 MiNi's!!! Will ship out at lunchtime today... can't wait! Got them with the Li-Ion RCR123 kits. Just needed something to carry around on my two keychains!!! lovecpf


----------



## suivant7 (Dec 24, 2009)

lovecpf


----------



## reflecyion (Dec 24, 2009)

hi guys - _total_ newb here,

any reason why i should get the 123 instead of the AA ?


----------



## compasillo (Dec 24, 2009)

@SUIVANT7

Nice pics ! :thumbsup:


----------



## Haz (Dec 24, 2009)

reflecyion said:


> hi guys - _total_ newb here,
> 
> any reason why i should get the 123 instead of the AA ?





higher output
longer runtime
shorter length


----------



## recDNA (Dec 24, 2009)

HarveyRich said:


> On my MiNi 123, the light does come on when pressing the head to the side after twisting it off just past the turn on point. However, it only takes about 1/4 turn to get past that point. So, a 1/4 turn past the on point will prevent one from accidentally pushing it on. That's really not that far IMHO. In my "paranoia" about lit pants and hot lights, I always turn my twisties a bit to make sure they don't accidentally turn on in my pocket.


 


I carry mine on a keychain hanging from a belt clip. Only a matter of time before the head falls off and I lose it. :-(


----------



## fisk-king (Dec 24, 2009)

I have to agree w/ DNA. I am sitting at work right now w/ my mini123 in my button shirt pocket next to my iphone. It worked pretty well yesterday being buried in my pocket but for keychain duty I have my reservations (tried it a few times & was scared the head might accidently screw off). As others stated before, I have also back the head enough so the light cannot be activated by mere pressing of the head. But everything has its own drawbacks considered, but I still enjoy this little gizmo & it helps that this light is a POCKET ROCKET!.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Dec 24, 2009)

Got my Qmini 123 yesterday and have thoroughly enjoyed its company. First reaction, like most folks, was "wow, this is tiny!". I think its volume and weight may be less than my LF2XT. Beam slightly warm with maybe a hint of green against a pure white freezer door. And it lights up my backyard better than anything else I have. The threads on mine seem normal, or maybe a bit too tight. I do have to crank it down tighter than I'd like to get it to come on without a flicker. Tried cleaning and deoxit to no avail. Not really a problem, but it makes one-handing tough.

That aside it's just a great little light. The low seems well chosen and gives about all I usually need. The medium covers the rest. And the high is perfect for grins. I didn't realize the beacon was 10 sec. Kind of like that too. Knurling and grip is just right.

Kudos, again, to 4Sevens for bringing us what we want. We'd be stumbling in the darkness without you. I hope you forsee many future generations of this gem.

Geoff


----------



## recDNA (Dec 24, 2009)

It's too bad Quark didn't do the tight is "off" loose is "on" type head. That way there is less risk of losing it.


----------



## Zendude (Dec 24, 2009)

reflecyion said:


> hi guys - _total_ newb here,
> 
> any reason why i should get the 123 instead of the AA ?




What Haz said is true. The only drawback is the battery price(try to buy them online).

Merry Xmas and :welcome:


----------



## ZRXBILL (Dec 24, 2009)

I was checking my Fenix E01 and it takes 3 3/4 turns to come off and 2 turns before the head gets past the o-ring and gets loose. Once my E01 is a 1/2 turn out it wont come on by pressing the head.

I'm wondering how the mini quarks compare.


----------



## JeffN (Dec 24, 2009)

Haz said:


> higher output
> longer runtime
> shorter length



True for primaries. Running on Li-on rechargeables, I've found that only your third point applies. Offsetting that, I find the smaller diameter of the Mini AA fits my pocket better.

My Mini 123 runs on an AW 16340 and my Mini AA on an AW 14500, both 750 mAh. The 123 throws a little tighter, too. Both are crazy bright for the size. :twothumbs definitely applies.


----------



## henry1960 (Dec 24, 2009)

JeffN said:


> True for primaries. Running on Li-on rechargeables, I've found that only your third point applies. Offsetting that, I find the smaller diameter of the Mini AA fits my pocket better.
> 
> My Mini 123 runs on an AW 16340 and my Mini AA on an AW 14500, both 750 mAh. The 123 throws a little tighter, too. Both are crazy bright for the size. :twothumbs definitely applies.




Dito on that...I do not have the 123 but the AA with the 14500`s great pocket light and run time and like you say crazy bright for a small light!!! :tinfoil:


----------



## AFAustin (Dec 24, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> The threads on mine seem normal, or maybe a bit too tight. I do have to crank it down tighter than I'd like to get it to come on without a flicker. Tried cleaning and deoxit to no avail. Not really a problem, but it makes one-handing tough.
> 
> Geoff



Geoff,

Have you tried sanding the o-ring a bit? I prefer a fairly fast twisty action, and I end up doing that on most of my head twisty lights. It usually works like a charm, and even an unhandy guy like me can handle this simple mod.

Andrew


----------



## DanTSX (Dec 24, 2009)

Just got mine 10 minutes ago!

Well, it is for my wife, but I had to "test" it first.


Absolutely amazing. Very impressed with light and overall package. Big thanks to 47's for getting this to many of us in time for Christmas. This is my first light from them and I am more than impressed so far. Wife will be blown away too I'm sure.


I think I'm getting a SF LX2 from her, so I had to get her something bright in return. Good trade-off as she needs something for keyring.


----------



## Elliot (Dec 24, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> I do have to crank it down tighter than I'd like to get it to come on without a flicker. ... but it makes one-handing tough.



What battery are you using? Mine is only like that with the extra long DX protected TrustFires. The threads in my Mini 123 are great with everything else I've tried, including the shorter DX protected TrustFires. They are both grey in color TrustFires.


----------



## passive101 (Dec 24, 2009)

So this plumbers tape will just add more friction to the threads so I won't have to worry about the light coming apart in my pocket? 

What stores sell it?


----------



## aarong50 (Dec 24, 2009)

Anyone here have a video of the strobe in action?

Kinda wondering how fast/slow it is.


----------



## recDNA (Dec 24, 2009)

passive101 said:


> So this plumbers tape will just add more friction to the threads so I won't have to worry about the light coming apart in my pocket?
> 
> What stores sell it?


 
Loews does...but I havn't gotten a straight answer about whether the flashlight will work with non-conductive tape wrapped around the threads.

If you try it and it works please pm me or at least be sure to post it.

I think there is some kind of grease that tightens it up a little too but I forget what it's called. I don't want to use the wrong grease and make it even looser.


----------



## MS3 (Dec 24, 2009)

I received my mini123 and ITP A1 Wed. via first class USPS after placing orders for both on Sunday - just in time for Christmas! Amazing order turn around by 4Sevens and Going Gear! 

This is my first purchase with the "buy 'em" both approach since I couldn't decide which one to get. Some compairson highlights for me are: 
1. my trustfire 16340's fit fine in the ITP A1, but are too long for the mini123 to operate. 
2. The ITP A1 has a clip which I like, but it's actually little weak. These lights are so small, I may just throw one in my pocket and not use the clip.

3. The head on the ITP A1 fits better than the mini123. This can be remedied, but the ITP A1 is better out of the box.

4. The knurling on the mini123 provides a much more secure grip than the ITP A1, but both can be operated with one hand.

For me, neither one really beats the other. They are both keepers


----------



## combinatorix (Dec 24, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Loews does...but I havn't gotten a straight answer about whether the flashlight will work with non-conductive tape wrapped around the threads.
> 
> If you try it and it works please pm me or at least be sure to post it.
> 
> I think there is some kind of grease that tightens it up a little too but I forget what it's called. I don't want to use the wrong grease and make it even looser.



Most hardware stores should have it, just ask for teflon tape or plumber's tape.

If you look at Zeruel's photo here you can see that contact is made between upper lip of the tube and a gold-plated PCB surface. So if you're careful to only wrap the threads and not spill over the top it'll be fine.

Note on the teflon tape- in plumbing applications you're supposed to replace it every time you re-seal the fittings, I'm not sure how well it will stand up to repeated use in a twisty light. Since the threads aren't pipe threads, they won't crush the teflon to the same degree, but it might eventually get cut up with repeated re-threading. Also, remember to wrap the tape clockwise!



Zeruel said:


>


----------



## JeffN (Dec 24, 2009)

passive101 said:


> So this plumbers tape will just add more friction to the threads so I won't have to worry about the light coming apart in my pocket?
> 
> What stores sell it?



You ought to be able to find it at any hardware store for less than a buck. Here's what it typically looks like: 

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemaintenance/plumbing/general/teflon.php

It's indispensable stuff.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Dec 24, 2009)

Just got back from field testing the QMini 123 while last minute shopping and taking a short hike. I'm pleased to report it rides in the pocket just as well as a AAA, maybe better being shorter.

Concerning the balky switching I use a Surefire battery and have also tried a Tenergy. I think what's happening is the battery tube is just barely reaching the pill, which maybe had been screwed in a tiny bit too far. The action on mine is very smooth over the o-ring. At that point it stops turning easily and requires a good bit more force to lock it on. I don't think o-ring sanding would help. It's not really much of a problem.

Geoff


----------



## reflecyion (Dec 24, 2009)

one more question from the noob...

having a low-low that doesn't disrupt my nightvision is important to me. 
will the AA mini be too bright in the 'low' setting?


----------



## Pummy (Dec 24, 2009)

MS3 said:


> ...
> 1. my trustfire 16340's fit fine in the ITP A1, but are too long for the mini123 to operate...



Take a look at post #315 (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3203616&postcount=315) as I had the some tightness with mine. This may help you if your cells are just a little too long. My trustfires are sku 19627 which was what I had issue with. Whilst my steps may not make the head as easy to operate, it may allow you to make use of your cells. The other suggestion is to use another spring altogether. You have a small pit available in the bottom of the body to place a smaller spring in there. If it still does not operate with maybe a little foil or very small spring then the cells are way too long.


----------



## jabe1 (Dec 24, 2009)

Just got my Mini 123. This thing is ridiculously bright for a light smaller than my thumb! oo:
I have noted the mode skipping, and all I can say is _twist faster_. The tint when using an RCR123 I find quite acceptable, even though I'm now used to my 6P with a Q4 5B, and my Quark AA neutral. With this amount of light in such a small package, I'm not going to complain, although mine doesn't show a hint of green :thumbsup:. I recommend not to white wall it before using it outdoors, real life application is great!

Now back to cooking for tomorrow...


----------



## get-lit (Dec 24, 2009)

*Tint lotto in effect*

Second Mini 123 just arrived for a gift. My first one had no hint of green, it was very much white. This one has the greenish tint to it. It's not all that bad, it's still definitely a nice light. The first one with the whiter tint sure is nice though. No doubt, there is a tint lotto with these.


----------



## MS3 (Dec 24, 2009)

Pummy said:


> Take a look at post #315 (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3203616&postcount=315) as I had the some tightness with mine. This may help you if your cells are just a little too long. My trustfires are sku 19627 which was what I had issue with. Whilst my steps may not make the head as easy to operate, it may allow you to make use of your cells. The other suggestion is to use another spring altogether. You have a small pit available in the bottom of the body to place a smaller spring in there. If it still does not operate with maybe a little foil or very small spring then the cells are way too long.


Pummy - Thanks, I hadn't noticed that. The ITP A1 has the bottom end of the battery cavity milled flat, so that's the difference. Maybe the mini123 couldn't be milled flat due to the way the lanyard/ring attachment was made ( better since it allows tail stand ). I have some battery station RCR123's on order - if those aren't a little shorter, I'll certainly use your suggestion.


----------



## pobox1475 (Dec 24, 2009)

> having a low-low that doesn't disrupt my nightvision is important to me.


 I had these thoughts in mind and in actual use at night around house have found low-low's to not be highly really beneficial. IMHO having ample illumination is more beneficial. I have had to get up middle of night a few times and found that my Quark tac set on high as it's primary output is about ideal. Secondary mode is max should I need to possibly attempt to blind an intruder or venture outside at night. In actual use my eyes seem to adjust to the light even though they have a few years of use in them. Also _for what it's worth _when I first activate a light upon waking I tend to not look directly at it's hot spot till my eyes have quickly adjusted. Please understand this in in no way an attack on anyone's personal preference. Just *my *$0.02 and experience


----------



## kaichu dento (Dec 24, 2009)

reflecyion said:


> one more question from the noob...
> 
> having a low-low that doesn't disrupt my nightvision is important to me.
> will the AA mini be too bright in the 'low' setting?


This is something I've really been wanting to hear more about too. Since all my MiNi AA's are from the neutral tint run I have yet to receive them and it's been like sitting on pins an needles waiting!

At any rate I assume the low will at least be lower than my present back pocket light, the EZAAw and I go to my LF2XT or my MillerMods Arc-P when I don't want much light.


----------



## regulator (Dec 25, 2009)

At any rate I assume the low will at least be lower than my present back pocket light, the EZAAw and I go to my LF2XT or my MillerMods Arc-P when I don't want much light.[/QUOTE]

The Mini low is definately lower than the low of the EZaa so I don't think you will have any problem.


----------



## kaichu dento (Dec 25, 2009)

regulator said:


> The Mini low is definately lower than the low of the EZaa so I don't think you will have any problem.


Being a three level light as opposed to two levels I'd assumed as much, but it's nice to hear confirmation! 

I wonder how soon we'll be seeing the neutral tint MiNi's...


----------



## 4sevens (Dec 25, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> I wonder how soon we'll be seeing the neutral tint MiNi's...


They're in transit. They left the factory at 12/23


----------



## jamie.91 (Dec 25, 2009)

the day before christmas eve the postie dropped a note through the door saying i had a package that a i had to collect from the depot

i go there not wanting to have to wait till after christmas to find out that i had to pay a customs fee of £10.97 ( or 17.34usd ) 

WTF ?

obviously i paid it to get my light but i wasnt happy !

off to a bad start!

BTW, although it is floody it still throws considerably well !

jamie


----------



## kaichu dento (Dec 25, 2009)

4sevens said:


> They're in transit. They left the factory at 12/23


Thanks David!

Oh and by the way, Merry Christmas!!


----------



## 4sevens (Dec 25, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> Thanks David!
> 
> Oh and by the way, Merry Christmas!!


Thanks! Happy new years!

Jamie - sorry to hear about the customs duty. My brother is moving to UK and I hear they pretty much tax everything! I heard theres an annual tax on the number of TV's in your house!


----------



## Burgess (Dec 25, 2009)

Wow !


Let's hope no Government decides to tax* Flashlights* ! ! !



_


----------



## compasillo (Dec 25, 2009)

4sevens said:


> Jamie - sorry to hear about the customs duty. My brother is moving to UK and I hear they pretty much tax everything! I heard theres an annual tax on the number of TV's in your house!



That's an old story in the UK. Just listen to The Beatles song "Taxman" (Harrison), 40 years back...


----------



## compasillo (Dec 25, 2009)

I've just received my minis AA (2) and have to say they are absolutely top notch. What a great mini!
Firstly, the box is much better than expected for a flashlight in this price. Really nice for a gift. But the best is inside it.
The light is a beauty and has the perfect dimensions and lightweight to become your main EDC. Easily one hand operated.
Knurling is something special. It works better with wet hands!
As other users do I'm running 14500 on it and it's a pocket rocket with a broad beam and a wide spill w/o artifacts and a slightly greenish tint, noticeably when compairing with others flashlights, but not annoying at all as I was afraid it could be. Nothing important in normal use.
Can tailstand...
But these are just a few first impressions. 

Thank you David. Superb service from 4Sevens and Good job :thumbsup:
and Merry Christmas to you and your team


----------



## MarkW (Dec 25, 2009)

I have followed this thread with interest since ordering a mini AA, and as far as I can tell, no one has yet come up with a TRADITIONAL CLIP for this beast--home-made or otherwise. (Note to 4-sevens: I would gladly trade the battery in the box for such a clip, and even throw in an extra dollar or two. If you made this an option, you could still keep the base price below the $40 barrier. . .) 
Anyone have a low-cost solution to share?


----------



## LightOnAHill (Dec 25, 2009)

I gifted one of my AA mini's to my father-in-law today. he loved it. He especially loved the L-M-H interface, because he would like to use it camping and not want a blast of light when turning it on after sleeping. 

He most likes that he can just get 1 AA battery and it's brighter than any other flashlights he has. It's on his keyring now... where it should be. :twothumbs


----------



## gbelleh (Dec 25, 2009)

My Mini 123 was waiting for me when I arrived back home today. I've had a chance to play with it for a while, and I have to say that I really like it! It is amazingly small, and the XP-G really does pump out a lot of light, with a large, bright hotspot. The light levels are well chosen, and nicely spaced. I also like having the strobe modes available.

But, I did notice some of the problems others have reported. The mode skipping can be a problem if twisting without a firm grip, or at a slowish pace. This doesn't seem to happen when twisting quickly and firmly with a good, solid grip. The tint is slightly green, but I don't mind green tints. It's less green than my LF3XT, but it's definitely not pure white. I'm just really thankful it's not blue! With the head loosened enough to not activate the light be pressing on it, the threads on my specific light are still pretty tight. I really doubt they're loose enough that it would easily unscrew in a pocket. But, I can see how this could be a problem on some examples. I like the idea mentioned earlier of head tightened being the off setting. These small issues are not a big deal to me, but hopefully, all this feedback will help make this light even better.

I don't plan to EDC this light because it doesn't have a pocket clip. So, I'm very happy with it for my intended purpose (general, occasional use around the house/yard). The quality seems high and everything is lined up and centered. Overall, this is a very nice light at a good price. It looks like I might have to go ahead and get the Mini AA in the near future too. Nice job 47s.


----------



## get-lit (Dec 25, 2009)

Burgess said:


> Wow !
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


Didn't you hear? There's the upcoming omnibus luminance tax, the personal EDC tax with accompanying surcharge and annual mandatory registration fees, the environmental impact study fee, the renewable energy/photon transition tax based upon the standard of estimated annual light output, and of course the portable energy storage excise tax along with disposal fees. You will also have to complete your yearly personal carry course and pass your evaluation which will run you a few bills. Be sure to maintain your acquisition/disposition forms for yearly review and approval. Then all you have to do is get your official law enforcement EDC certification along with your completed approval form from your local public school, which will allow for you to certify for your federal H8-2-EDC stamp. And I almost forgot, mandatory EDC comprehensive and liability insurance, which if you don't pay, you have to pay a penalty fine with your tax return. But don't worry, you will get a free pen, just pay shipping, handling and tax.
This wonderful new bill is being heralded as the great new fair light use act. Against public support, it's now passing on a bare margin with the help of the permanent Nebraska exemption.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 25, 2009)

Yep... .that sounds right... I remember when the gov was rewarding me a credit with one hand to buy a hybrid car and with the other trying to tax me more because I got such good mileage they weren't getting their gas tax from me per mile that they got from other people!......


----------



## jorn (Dec 26, 2009)

4sevens said:


> They're in transit. They left the factory at 12/23


Thank you, i have been searching for that comment


----------



## Flying Turtle (Dec 26, 2009)

Seems like my 123 is loosening up some, or I'm just learning to drive it smoother. Really liking it for sure. I'm on the lookout for a small plastic red or orange lens cap/diffuser for night light work. I did find that the WalMart match case is a perfect fit.







Geoff


----------



## recDNA (Dec 26, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Loews does...but I havn't gotten a straight answer about whether the flashlight will work with non-conductive tape wrapped around the threads.
> 
> If you try it and it works please pm me or at least be sure to post it.
> 
> I think there is some kind of grease that tightens it up a little too but I forget what it's called. I don't want to use the wrong grease and make it even looser.


 
Still hoping for an answer on this one....


----------



## jorn (Dec 26, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Still hoping for an answer on this one....


easy, just pop out the spring and stretch it. that should give more pressure/friction on the the threads, making it harder to twist.


----------



## diggity (Dec 26, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> Seems like my 123 is loosening up some, or I'm just learning to drive it smoother. Really liking it for sure. I'm on the lookout for a small plastic red or orange lens cap/diffuser for night light work. I did find that the WalMart match case is a perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Geoff - does it fit snug?


----------



## kwkarth (Dec 26, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Loews does...but I havn't gotten a straight answer about whether the flashlight will work with non-conductive tape wrapped around the threads.
> 
> If you try it and it works please pm me or at least be sure to post it.
> 
> I think there is some kind of grease that tightens it up a little too but I forget what it's called. I don't want to use the wrong grease and make it even looser.



I went down to Home Depot last week and picked up some plumber's tape to try on the mini's. In a word; awesome! It worked so well, I'm going to use it for every light for which it will work! Only lights whose threads are already anodized and therefore do not rely on current conduction through the threads will work.

On my M123, it pretty much solved the wobling problem, and on the MAA, it made the thread action smoother as well. I also stretched the spring on th AA model, and that coupled with another application of Caig Pro gold has improved the mode bounce a great deal!!


----------



## Beamhead (Dec 26, 2009)

kwkarth said:


> I went down to Home Depot last week and picked up some plumber's tape to try on the mini's. In a word; awesome! It worked so well, I'm going to use it for every light for which it will work! Only lights whose threads are already anodized and therefore do not rely on current conduction through the threads will work.
> 
> On my M123, it pretty much solved the wobling problem, and on the MAA, it made the thread action smoother as well. I also stretched the spring on th AA model, and that coupled with another application of Caig Pro gold has improved the mode bounce a great deal!!


 
So it worked for you?


----------



## Flying Turtle (Dec 26, 2009)

The match case is a snug fit. If you force it in past a bit of knurling it holds very tight.

Geoff


----------



## gbelleh (Dec 26, 2009)

These lights really are small. It's hard to believe that these two lights use the same battery configuration!  And put out close to the same amount of light! :twothumbs

Nitecore SR3 and Quark Mini 123


----------



## windstrings (Dec 26, 2009)

Mini CR123 verses Fenix PD 10 ti.....

I had to try out the Fenix PD 10 ti and mine just arrived.

My preliminary findings are good... although slightly bigger, a real performer.

The beamshots are "all" with RCR's.

Unfortunately the Fenix PD 10 ti does not have modes when using RCR's.... only high... I did try it with a non rechargeable and the modes do exist, however unlike the Mini 123, the rechargeables render it a really bright pocket light and nothing else.

BTW..I did put about 3 wraps of plumbers tape on my MINI and as others reported.. smoothed it right up, still works perfect and doesn't get loose.

Anyway.. back to the review.... the Ti looks like polished stainless... very pretty! Its a tad longer but also a tad less diameter.
I was concerned the brightness my suffer in comparison ever so slightly with the less diameter but I was wrong.

I haven't done across the yard backyard shots yet, but in my large livingroom, it appears the Ti is hotter and not quite as spread out as the Mini... also the Ti is a tad bluer... but only noticed with both are on at once to compare...it still is a very nice white.

Is it worth 2.5 times the cost?.... humm... well I think it is or I wouldn't have bought it... performance wise alone.. maybe no, but it looks like it will still look perfect 50 years from now.
The 216 lumens does not appear to be an exaggeration based on comparisons with the Mini..... it really does punch a hole out there.

Both use the same type of LED I believe and both perform outstanding.... I just think the Ti has more throw and condenses the light a tad more for distance.

Does it get hot?.. Oh yea!.. the Ti gets stinkin hot in not too much time... starting at the head. I never have these on for too long anyway... but I don't know if I should get concerned in an emergency when I really needed to leave it on or not?.. Maybe a dip in water since its waterproof!.... I wouldn't advise any bright ideas of sticking it in your mouth unless you like blisters!... LOL!

Here are some pics and beamshots...


First a few showing the size difference from the sides and top.
















Now some beamshots.. about 25 feet shots....

First has Mini123 on Left and Fenix PD 10 ti on right





Second has Mini on top and Fenix PD 10 ti on bottom





Third the opposite... Fenix PD 10 ti on top and Mini on bottom


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Dec 27, 2009)

Grrrrr, my mini 123 was delivered, and promptly stolen out of the mailbox by an ex roommate.

Worst of it - I have 100% proof of this to MYSELF, but zero proof that would suffice for anyone else (police, postmaster, etc).

Lesson learned - unless it's exclusively my own residence I'm never shipping to a house again. PO box for me from now on.

First time in 22 years of renting this has ever happened to me.


----------



## da.gee (Dec 27, 2009)

Dude Dudeson said:


> Grrrrr, my mini 123 was delivered, and promptly stolen out of the mailbox by an ex roommate.
> 
> Worst of it - I have 100% proof of this to MYSELF, but zero proof that would suffice for anyone else (police, postmaster, etc).
> 
> ...



Nice roommate. Steal it back? Pound him? Hold his dog hostage? Confront him and he'll be reasonable? Probably not since he stole it in the first place.


----------



## dive4air (Dec 27, 2009)

I received mine (CR123) on Christmas as a gift. I was told that when the person ordered, they were told it was on back-order but then an order confirmation came through that it was being shipped, so who knows what happened there. Anyway, I am lucky in that sense. In any case, he said that customer service at 4sevens was EXCELLENT.

Ok, as far as the light, I LOVE it. I have never had a tiny light like that so it's hard to compare to similar sizes, however it blows away some of my bigger ones like Pelican and a Surefire U2 Ultra. I have no doubt that it would also blow away the new Surefire Titan at a fraction of that cost.

The beam is clean and floods nicely. It doesn't throw but in this size, you really aren't buying it for throw. The size, oh the size, AWESOME!!! This light will never leave your pocket because it's so easy to carry. I do believe the 180 lumen OTF rating because next to my 180 lumen Cabela's XPG xenon, it held its own in flooding. I am using the battery that came with it.

Presentation was very nice. Good box, good package with lanyard and extra O ring. I think the lanyard is WAY to big and long unless you plan to wear this light around your neck. I chose not to use it. The laser engrave on the tailcap is classy. Instructions were good and acceptable.

My only suggestion is to introduce a tail cap switch/click or programming to keep on last setting. Also, introducing RGB filters would be nice. I use red and green a lot when i need subtle light.

Conclusion: Worth every penny and worth the wait. Makes your 5 inch 180 lumen other light look goofy. Buy one for sure, you won't regret it. I plan to get one for my dad and brother next.


----------



## Strauss (Dec 27, 2009)

When is the next batch of Mini123's supposed to arrive? I am interested in ordering a pair of them but would like to know when to expect them.


----------



## Joe Talmadge (Dec 27, 2009)

After playing with mine 123 for a week ... I have indeed found that it's pretty easy to hit the spot that causes the light to jump levels. Very easy to hit it one-handed, and occasionally I even hit it two-handed. Teflon tape on the threads has very much helped the action and thread looseness, and even seems to have somewhat mitigated the level jumping

I'm as thrilled as ever about the performance on rcr123, paying careful attention to the heat on high ... I'm rethinking whether I should switch to a lifepo4 rechargeable, or primary, though so far I haven't had to use high for long enough time for it to matter


----------



## se4g4e (Dec 27, 2009)

Strauss said:


> When is the next batch of Mini123's supposed to arrive? I am interested in ordering a pair of them but would like to know when to expect them.


I asked 4Sevens that question on 12\22, and was told they'd be back in stock "next week".


----------



## get-lit (Dec 27, 2009)

windstrings said:


>


 
Your thumbnail looks painful! Let it be, you can do it.


----------



## u238 (Dec 27, 2009)

I want to pick one of these up, but I'm concerned about the size of the lanyard hole. How sturdy is the split ring that can fit the light?


----------



## fisk-king (Dec 27, 2009)

from 47's customer service


 do not use rcr123's for the mini123!

it may have been posted here (using dial-up couldn't check)

check Henk Lu's post at #963


----------



## kwkarth (Dec 28, 2009)

Beamhead said:


> So it worked for you?



Yes, works great!


----------



## kaichu dento (Dec 28, 2009)

I got my MiNi AA today and I'm looking forward to my neutral tint versions even more!

Evidently I won the tint lottery too as I got a slightly cool emitter and I love the UI.


----------



## reflecyion (Dec 28, 2009)

is it safe to use rechargable cr123's and 14500's in the mini's?


----------



## Gregozedobe (Dec 28, 2009)

reflecyion said:


> is it safe to use rechargable cr123's and 14500's in the mini's?


 
Officially: No (see post #482 above)

Some people have decided that they are going to run theirs on high with Li-ion batteries, but it is critical to monitor the heat build-up very carefully, and switch to Low/Med/Off to stop heat damage to the emitter before it gets too hot (which may be quite quickly, depending on circumstances).


----------



## windstrings (Dec 28, 2009)

reflecyion said:


> is it safe to use rechargable cr123's and 14500's in the mini's?



I agree.. .just dont run it on high for so long that it feels like a firecracker in your hand.. just turn it down... use the high for a few minutes at a time and your good.


----------



## computerpro3 (Dec 28, 2009)

Using a 14500 in the Mini AA, does the brightness of medium compare to the high mode on alkalines?


----------



## jonnyfgroove (Dec 28, 2009)

computerpro3 said:


> Using a 14500 in the Mini AA, does the brightness of medium compare to the high mode on alkalines?



In my experience, the medium on 14500 is close, but not quite as bright as high on alkaline.


----------



## pobox1475 (Dec 28, 2009)

> stolen out of the mailbox by an ex roommate.


 Locked or open access box?


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 28, 2009)




----------



## Dead_Nuts (Dec 28, 2009)

I bought 2 for Christmas (1 went to me). I love it. I always kept. my P1D around because of it's size, but the MiNi 123 is much smaller! Threads are smooth and head is easy to twist with one hand. Beam shape is very nice and the tint slightly warmer than my P1D.

I did not expect to like this light this much, as I have come to believe that you get what you pay for. And that may still turn out to be true. But, so far, this little light is impressive.


----------



## recDNA (Dec 28, 2009)

I can't tell from your beamshot...how would you describe the color of the mini compared to the Fenix? I don't like the greenish tint of any of the 
Quark XP-G(reen).

The hotspot of the Fenix LOOKS smaller and brighter than the Mini. Is that a fair assessment?


----------



## recDNA (Dec 28, 2009)

jonnyfgroove said:


> In my experience, the medium on 14500 is close, but not quite as bright as high on alkaline.


 

How does the high of the 14500 compare to the high of the Mini123?


----------



## jonnyfgroove (Dec 28, 2009)

recDNA said:


> How does the high of the 14500 compare to the high of the Mini123?



Hmm, I don't have a 123 to compare to. From what I've read, the overall output would be very similar if both were running li-ion rechargeable.

OK, here is the official answer.


----------



## kaichu dento (Dec 28, 2009)

After spending a bit more time with my MiNi AA I'm surprised there is such a small incremental change between levels. 

I don't think I can get rid of this light because it is so nicely done but the low is high enough that it works as a regular light and would have been almost bright enough to be the medium level.

Everyone else happy with the levels? 

One final note has to do with the issue of loose threads; mine is perfect in that regard and no problem whatsoever changing levels. I'm definitely keeping this light!


----------



## gadgetnerd (Dec 29, 2009)

I got the 123 and AA Minis just before Christmas and have been using them regularly since. My observations:

Both are so incredibly tiny and compact, and very well constructed.

The interface is nice and simple, and the levels well set. I'd still have liked a moon mode.

The 123 has nicer (smoother) threads and changes modes consistently, the AA is a bit rougher and will skip modes if not engaged firmly

Nice smooth beams, both are unfortunately green tinged.

My AA has a dirty great thumbprint *inside* the lens, and I can't get the pill out to clean it.

All in all, they are great torches and unbeatable value. The only real sticking point for me is the green tint, I think I might have to invest in the nuetral versions.


----------



## kaichu dento (Dec 29, 2009)

gadgetnerd said:


> I got the 123 and AA Minis just before Christmas and have been using them regularly since. My observations:
> 
> Both are so incredibly tiny and compact, and very well constructed.
> 
> ...


Obviously there are some noticeable discrepancies between individual units. Just comparing my MiNi to yours, I got very smooth, tight threads, no mode skipping and as near as I can tell, no fingerprints or smudges.

Tint is where I really won out. Although I prefer sunlight/incandescent/campfire tints, the cool tint I got is so subtly blue that it's very simililar in appearance to moonlight, and how can you not like moonlight! Someday I'd love to see a special variable tint led that was just like moonlight on it's lowest level, gradually warming to sunlight on high. 

Really wish this light had more difference between levels, especially the moon mode that the bigger Quarks got.


----------



## burntoshine (Dec 29, 2009)

kaichu dento, are the levels on the minis really that close together?

my main complaint about the Fenix LOD is the levels are all practically the same; especially my LD01 SS. the LOD and LD01 desperately need a moonmode and the current lowest mode is almost bright enough to be the medium level. and my P1D CE's medium and high are indiscernible. all 3 of these lights i have converted to neutral!  my other complaint with the Fenix LOD is the PWM which is very noticeable to me; just using the flashlight normally, my eyes can detect that weird strobe effect. i wonder if the better circuitry on the new versions is significantly better.

the think the regular Quarks are visibly spaced out quite perfectly. that's one of the things that i think makes them better than a lot of other flashlights.

i still have yet to see a mini in person. no cools for me. i hope the neutrals ship soon. i also hope that maybe one day, neutral versions of lights will be available at the same time as the cools. i understand that ordering quantities accurately every time is impossible. you can't predict future demand with brand new products. you can get a little better with experience, but you always end up having to make your best guess in the end.


----------



## Connor (Dec 29, 2009)

burntoshine said:


> kaichu dento, are the levels on the minis really that close together?



I may be able to help you out here. My MiNi 123 arrived yesterday and I am still completely in awe .. this thing is damn near perfect.

I consider the levels to be VERY nicely spaced - 3 lumens is perfect for inside the house, 40 is perfect for the outsides and 189 is a BLAST. The only things I would wish for is an additional moonlight mode hidden away with the other extra modes and perhaps a more useful "emergency blinking mode" with ~2 quick flashes per second or so.

-Connor


----------



## kaichu dento (Dec 29, 2009)

It's not as bad as an L0D, but I'd really hoped for some wider spacing and had especially hoped that the low would be at least close to the moon mode of the Quarks.

Just doing a quick visual comparison with an L0D RB80:
Low is just a little under the L0D, medium is just a little higher and high is notably higher.

...and an SS LD01:
Low is a lot lower, medium just a little lower and high looks about the same in the middle, but since both the hot spot and flood are noticeably wider, the MiNi is definitely the winner there.

In summary, I'm very happy with the high, especially considering the beam pattern, and just wish the medium was a little lower and the low a lot more so.

Can't wait to get my neutral tints as I'm hoping they will be noticeably lower. No plan on getting rid of any of these though and I suspect the neutral tint version will become my primary AA giveaway light!


----------



## kaichu dento (Dec 29, 2009)

Connor said:


> I may be able to help you out here. My MiNi 123 arrived yesterday and I am still completely in awe .. this thing is damn near perfect.
> 
> I consider the levels to be VERY nicely spaced - 3 lumens is perfect for inside the house, 40 is perfect for the outsides and 189 is a BLAST. The only things I would wish for is an additional moonlight mode hidden away with the other extra modes and perhaps a more useful "emergency blinking mode" with ~2 quick flashes per second or so.
> 
> -Connor


This is one reason I refuse to condemn the spacing, and also one of the main reasons I plan on giving them away. It probably is perfect for a good number of people, especially non-flashaholics in particular. 

It also begs the question, at least in my mind, how closely the spacing of the 123 compares with the AA...?

Although I would have preferred the moon mode at the start, at least hidden away would be far better than non-existent.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 29, 2009)

Well one thing is for sure.. the price is right... nothing can touch it at that price......I just bought the Fenix PD 10 ti at 2.5 times the price and even though the beam is a tad more concentrated the Mini is about as smooth and even a pattern as I've seen... its without flaws!.


Now can they make one in Titanium?


----------



## applevision (Dec 29, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> Someday I'd love to see a special variable tint led that was just like moonlight on it's lowest level, gradually warming to sunlight on high.


 
*kaichu* this is brilliant! Gosh, now I totally want this! I wonder if it could be done with a setup like the Quark RGB and some fancy programming... 

Folks have been saying it for a bit now, but tints are the next frontier!
lovecpf


----------



## Flying Turtle (Dec 29, 2009)

I agree a moonlight mode would be nice. Seems like the low on mine must be a bit more than 3 lumens. While I'm making my wish list for version 2 how about a soft touch tail switch and programming like LiteFlux. To remove that added length chop the reflector and use some clever optic for the perfect beam. That's all for now.

Geoff


----------



## EngrPaul (Dec 29, 2009)

windstrings said:


> Now can they make one in Titanium?


 
OMG, the emitter would FRY at full output on Li-Ions:candle:


----------



## Launch Mini (Dec 29, 2009)

For Xmas, our family had the "gift steal" game in place this year.
To my daughters chagrin, I bought a Mini123 for my contribution.
So, we all open our present, before the stealing begins. My nephew got the light, put the battery in, and almost blinded everyone in the room
From that point on, this was the hottest gift to be stolen. I even stole it back at one point.
In the end, after countless steals, his girlfriend had the "last steal" of the night, and promptly grabbed the light , so she could give it to him.
Well , that kept him occupied the rest of the night. He had the hidden features figured out right away.
This was perfect for him, as every year, he hikes the "West Coast Trail" and has to pack light. (pun intended)
Now I want one.:thumbsup::sick2:


----------



## gordonshowers (Dec 29, 2009)

Sorry if it's already been mentioned, but the neutral MiNi AA is now shipping. Mine was put in the post today


----------



## ergotelis (Dec 29, 2009)

Just to add that most of 14500 fit the MiniAA, but only AW RCR123 fits Mini123.
All other protecter RCRs don't fit, only the unprotected ones, though i won't recommend that to you.


----------



## cafezeenuts (Dec 29, 2009)

Just got my Q Mini123 today, damm is small didnt realise it was that small till i had it in hand :thumbsup:.

No problems with my Mini123 from Batch 2, thread is tight and mode does'nt skip, lucky one i guess. 

Im using AW RCR123A on my Mini123, the High mode is OMG bright for such a little size. Good for showing off :lolsign: But it does get hot rather quick. Ok for a few minutes of use or you might cook your LED....


----------



## defloyd77 (Dec 29, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> OMG, the emitter would FRY at full output on Li-Ions:candle:



I think the 123 might fry too in a titanium body.


----------



## Sgt. LED (Dec 29, 2009)

POWWWW!!!!!!


----------



## kaichu dento (Dec 29, 2009)

applevision said:


> *kaichu* this is brilliant! Gosh, now I totally want this! I wonder if it could be done with a setup like the Quark RGB and some fancy programming...
> 
> Folks have been saying it for a bit now, but tints are the next frontier!
> lovecpf


Hopefully we're not the only ones wanting one! 

I'm wondering if it might not be easier than it sounds since a lot of emitters kind of do this naturally already, just not to the extent that I'm dreaming of. 

If tints really are the next frontier, I wonder what the star date will be... :thinking:


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 29, 2009)

gadgetnerd said:


> I got the 123 and AA Minis just before Christmas and have been using them regularly since. My observations:
> 
> Both are so incredibly tiny and compact, and very well constructed.
> 
> ...


 
Funny, mine has the same something on the inside of my lense too.

Wonder who's fingerprint it is??


----------



## windstrings (Dec 29, 2009)

defloyd77 said:


> I think the 123 might fry too in a titanium body.




I don't know... I now also have the Fenix PD 10 ti and it gets pretty hot.

Is that because its conducting poorly and cooking to death inside?
Or is it because its built well and transfers most of the heat to the shell therefore allowing you to feel the heat in your hand?

Since it doesn't take long at all to feel, I think its the latter and its conducting very well.. otherwise it would take a while to reach the surface and by then it would be cooking inside!

I see no problem with titanium, unless its built poorly.


----------



## Sgt. LED (Dec 29, 2009)

Combine the Ti and an Rcr123 and high will harm the light. Drop down the drive level for high mode and you'd be OK.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 29, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> Combine the Ti and an Rcr123 and high will harm the light. Drop down the drive level for high mode and you'd be OK.



I don't think the RCR will hurt as long as extended run times aren't used and then like you say... just drop the mode to medium or low.

Heat is the only enemy and these LED's are pretty tough.... it its uncomforable to hold you will know its hot... the danger is leaving the light on high without holding it.

The hand acts as a nice heat sink to not only monitor levels, but draws away much of the heat.

Of course if its 20 degrees outside, it won't be as much of an issue!


----------



## defloyd77 (Dec 29, 2009)

windstrings said:


> I don't know... I now also have the Fenix PD 10 ti and it gets pretty hot.
> 
> Is that because its conducting poorly and cooking to death inside?
> Or is it because its built well and transfers most of the heat to the shell therefore allowing you to feel the heat in your hand?
> ...



It's because the heat mostly stays in the head, you know there is a thread on this somewhere, I'll find it for you.

EDIT: Here it is https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/248274


----------



## Burgess (Dec 29, 2009)

Now, when will these little gems be available in COLORS ?


:wow:

_


----------



## jsholli (Dec 30, 2009)

That is an awesome thread with the IR/heat imaging, defloyd77! I was typing up my thoughts with the links to thermal qualities as you posted, but as the referenced thread illustrates, Ti is indeed on the low end of the scale for good conductors.

Here are some examples descending in efficiency:
Silver [429 W] is a better conductor of heat than copper [401 W], which is better than aluminum [237 W], which is better than iron [80.4 W], which is still better than titanium [21.9 W]...so even according to the stats on the wiki site, the Ti bodies don't seem to be very efficient for heat removal as has been said, but man, they sure are lightweight and pretty!


----------



## Sgt. LED (Dec 30, 2009)

Makes me want a silver flashlight!


----------



## Burgess (Dec 30, 2009)

_


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 30, 2009)

Burgess said:


> Now, when will these little gems be available in COLORS ?
> 
> 
> :wow:
> ...


----------



## gadgetnerd (Dec 30, 2009)

Lightcrazycanuck said:


> Funny, mine has the same something on the inside of my lense too.
> 
> Wonder who's fingerprint it is??



If I could get the pill and lens out, I'd take it to the cops to fingerprint and find out


----------



## jsholli (Dec 30, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> Makes me want a silver flashlight!


 
Too bad diamond is out of the question...it is at least twice as good as silver ranging from 900 to 2300 W. I wonder if something could be done with diamond powder that would be econimcally feasible but still thermally efficient? This thread touches on it in heat sinks, but it sounds like putting the powder in a substrate might dampen its properties...IR photo time again anyone?!?


----------



## burntoshine (Dec 30, 2009)

Lightcrazycanuck said:


> Funny, mine has the same something on the inside of my lense too.
> 
> Wonder who's fingerprint it is??



i think there's one guy in the factory that's always eating potato chips. he assembled the first RGB light that i received that was a defect. it had a greasy smudge on the dome of the LED. luckily, i think someone else assembled the 2nd one i received, as there's no finger prints or smudges on this one.


----------



## burntoshine (Dec 30, 2009)

Burgess said:


> Now, when will these little gems be available in COLORS ?
> 
> 
> :wow:
> ...



i want mine made out of transparent aluminum. :huh:


----------



## bondr006 (Dec 30, 2009)

burntoshine said:


> i want mine made out of transparent aluminum. :huh:



Now you know that only exists in the Star Trek universe...


----------



## burntoshine (Dec 30, 2009)

bondr006 said:


> Now you know that only exists in the Star Trek universe...



aw crap!! :mecry:


----------



## windstrings (Dec 30, 2009)

burntoshine said:


> i want mine made out of transparent aluminum. :huh:




I hear absolutely pure Gold is transparent!


And that may only exist in Heaven!


----------



## friedspam (Dec 30, 2009)

bondr006 said:


> Now you know that only exists in the Star Trek universe...



Actually, they're working on it in real life...

http://science.howstuffworks.com/transparent-aluminum-armor3.htm


----------



## windstrings (Dec 30, 2009)

friedspam said:


> Actually, they're working on it in real life...
> 
> http://science.howstuffworks.com/transparent-aluminum-armor3.htm




Ok.. you twisted my arm... I'll take one! 



> Not only can the aluminum armor deflect rounds from small-caliber weapons and still be more clearly transparent than bullet-resistant glass that's been shot, it also passes a much more important test -- it resists .50-caliber armor-piercing bullets and anti-aircraft weapons that typically use .30-caliber rounds.


----------



## burntoshine (Dec 30, 2009)

friedspam said:


> Actually, they're working on it in real life...
> 
> http://science.howstuffworks.com/transparent-aluminum-armor3.htm



oh heck yes!



windstrings said:


> Ok.. you twisted my arm... I'll take one!



*+1*



> Not only can the aluminum armor deflect rounds from small-caliber weapons and still be more clearly transparent than bullet-resistant glass that's been shot, it also passes a much more important test -- it resists .50-caliber armor-piercing bullets and anti-aircraft weapons that typically use .30-caliber rounds.



nice!

...sounds good enough for my flashlights.


----------



## ZRXBILL (Dec 30, 2009)

Oh boy, a $50 light with a $500 transparent alum. lens.:laughing:


----------



## brianch (Dec 30, 2009)

Mines is taking forever to arrive. :tired::sigh::thumbsdow:mecry::sick2:


----------



## defloyd77 (Dec 30, 2009)

brianch said:


> Mines is taking forever to arrive. :tired::sigh::thumbsdow:mecry::sick2:



UGH! Mine too, I've already waited 3 days and I'm going to have to wait like another 18 hours:shakehead


----------



## brianch (Dec 30, 2009)

defloyd77 said:


> UGH! Mine too, I've already waited 3 days and I'm going to have to wait like another 18 hours:shakehead


WHAT? I am at 12 days!!:shakehead

I am a bit confused on battery options for this light. Not sure if I should stick to expensive 3V primaries or use 3.6V RCR123a's or crappy 3V RCR123a's (which are really 3.5V after charge)


----------



## defloyd77 (Dec 30, 2009)

brianch said:


> WHAT? I am at 12 days!!:shakehead



Sorry man, I was just kidding with you, good luck with the wait.


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Dec 30, 2009)

brianch said:


> Mines is taking forever to arrive. :tired::sigh::thumbsdow:mecry::sick2:



Well my first one got stolen out of the mailbox before I even saw it, and now I'm waiting on my "second" one lol!

Actually the first one MIGHT be headed back to 4sevens - I just got hit with Craigslist rental scam/foreclosure thing, but I know the "homeowner" still had a key to the mailbox, and I know the light was indeed delivered to that mailbox. It's a pretty safe bet that jerk got a nice Christmas present from me on top of scamming me.


----------



## windstrings (Dec 30, 2009)

brianch said:


> WHAT? I am at 12 days!!:shakehead
> 
> I am a bit confused on battery options for this light. Not sure if I should stick to expensive 3V primaries or use 3.6V RCR123a's or crappy 3V RCR123a's (which are really 3.5V after charge)




I you already have RCRs try them and see how quick it gets too hot.... too hot being uncomfortable to hold in your hand.

Me personally, I never use the light that long... but if you found you needed a light for an extended period... just drop it down a notch.

The Mini has this advantage using RCRs that the Fenix PD10 ti does not.

Its a bit harder for that light because if your using RCRs with that one... youve got what youve got and if it gets too hot, your only option is to turn it off to cool down as RCRs kill the mode options as you only have full high.

This decision is a no brainer for the MINI....

Every light I've ever had warned against RCR's "my first PD 1" because the manufacturer knows if they don't put that disclaimer in... someone will turn it on high with RCRs and leave it on a counter "no heat sink" while they work on a project and fry it.

Its hard to factor common sense with warranty policies so it has to be written in such a way so that nothing can go wrong.


----------



## brianch (Dec 30, 2009)

Yea I'll try it out with both 3V and 3.6V RCR123a's to see if it really does get too hot for my usage. It's not meant to be a heavy duty light for me, I'm just using it as a pocketlight for emergencies. I am sure the RCRs will be fine. :twothumbs I just hope this thing arrives soon! All this hype has gotten me all hyped up


----------



## Duluth Diesel (Dec 30, 2009)

A good friend of mine gave me a brand new Quark Mini 123 as a Christmas gift. Yeah nice friend, I know!:thumbsup:

I had it home for all of 10 minutes and something went terribly wrong. My wife saw it and said, "hey, you said you were going to get me a brighter light, right? I like that one."

So I lost it. My wife now has a very nice Quark Mini that was mine for only a moment. So what did I do? :devil:

I jumped on 4sevens.com and ordered one for myself. 

As for the light, I'm impressed. Even when my wife went through the modes she honestly said "holy $h!t" when she put it on HIGH. It doesn't have the throw that my Fenix P3D Q5 has, but throw isn't a big deal when you use the light for getting around at night. The flood factor is actually preferable for what this light will be used for. With such a small form factor, and plenty of power, I think this will be my new EDC light for a while and my P3D will stay in the drawer for a bit. 

You know you have good friends when they lurk on CPF and shop on 4Sevens for you.


----------



## burntoshine (Dec 30, 2009)

ZRXBILL said:


> Oh boy, a $50 light with a $500 transparent alum. lens.:laughing:



no, not just the lens, the whole flashlight.

you thought we were serious? :laughing:


----------



## defloyd77 (Dec 30, 2009)

Duluth Diesel said:


> I had it home for all of 10 minutes and something went terribly wrong. My wife saw it and said, "hey, you said you were going to get me a brighter light, right? I like that one."
> 
> So I lost it. My wife now has a very nice Quark Mini that was mine for only a moment. So what did I do? :devil:
> 
> I jumped on 4sevens.com and ordered one for myself.



LMAO!!! As much as that does suck, that is awesome!!! You're a lucky man.


----------



## kaichu dento (Dec 31, 2009)

Dude Dudeson said:


> Well my first one got stolen out of the mailbox before I even saw it, and now I'm waiting on my "second" one lol!


So you went ahead and ordered another one? Send me your PayPal address and I'll split it with you. :thumbsup:


----------



## wojtek_pl (Dec 31, 2009)

OK.
My impressions.

Very small and nice finish.
But (there is ALWAYS one or three... or four.).

LED color is ugly green. OK, that's my fault, I could order warm white one.

Then I would really prefer Hi --> Med --> Lo . I wish I could program it to turn on with the level I like...

Then it is durability. Like all recent Fenix flashlights this one is switched on by screwing the head to battery tube hard . This means that internal contact field on the head WILL wear out pretty soon as it is contact between hard battery tube alloy and quite soft printed circuit material. Which is wearing out already. Especially when using the flashlight means (for me) switching it on three times per one use ( ON to Lo, then Med, then Hi). 

And no RCR123 for it...

As I'm using Fenix P1 as my primary EDC with RCR123 (I swapped Luxeon (anybody remember those?  ) to SSC P4 with about 100 Lumens - it is enough) which gives nice floddy beam for three years now (amazing!) I'm looking for newer replacement. And Quark MiNi 123, although smaller than P1, is not going to be one. Pity...

I think I'll replace SSC P4 to the new one, replace o-rings and stick with P1 .


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 31, 2009)

wojtek_pl said:


> OK.
> 
> Then it is durability. Like all recent Fenix flashlights this one is switched on by screwing the head to battery tube hard . This means that internal contact field on the head WILL wear out pretty soon as it is contact between hard battery tube alloy and quite soft printed circuit material.



If you're handy with a soldering iron, you could always put a thin layer of solder on the pcb trace. As that wears, just refresh it as you please. You can ad a little to the positive contact too, if you wish.

I used to do this with Fenix lights, but now I realize that I will always upgrade to another light long before the trace wears.


----------



## recDNA (Dec 31, 2009)

Is the high output noticeably greater with AW RCR123 compared to 4sevens CR123?


----------



## burntoshine (Dec 31, 2009)

just got my 3 neutral minis!

left my comment in the MP, but had to give a shout out here to tha finest little flashlights around town.

the neutral tint is so very nice.

these minis are a must have for flashaholics and the perfect gift for muggles.

just dang amazing!


----------



## EngrPaul (Dec 31, 2009)

*Suspended pocket carry of the 123*

Using a "P-7 Suspension Clip", and the stock split ring.


----------



## compasillo (Dec 31, 2009)

That's a really good idea ! 
Worthwhile post indeed :thumbsup:


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Dec 31, 2009)

Wow, that's a great idea for more than just a Quark mini!


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 31, 2009)

Nice one Paul. I have a P-7 just waiting for my neutral minis. 

That really puts the size of the 123 in perspective for me. Yikes those things are tiny!:thumbsup:


----------



## burntoshine (Dec 31, 2009)

just a quick note:

the lens appeared to be scratched on 2 of my 3 NW minis. a quick look at the case of the minis lead me assume it got scratched in the box. well, they're not scratched.

one time i had an empty water bottle and hit it against a window of my car and it left a little streak; it almost looked like a scratch, but it was just some of the bottle that rubbed off and left a "mark" on the window. it comes off fairly easily.

i think this is similar to what happened with the mini lenses.

the marks came right off with some alcohol prep pads and some moderate-to-light pressure. rubbing alcohol and q-tips would most likely work about as well.

just thought i'd put it out there in case anyone else had some marks on their mini lenses. they might be easily removable marks, like mine had.

cheers


----------



## speedyg (Dec 31, 2009)

I just got my Quark Mini AA, but am a little disappointed in the beam brightness. My Fenix L1D is brighter. Both lights use 1 AA battery, but I was expecting the new Cree XP-G R5 in the Quark to be brighter than the Cree 7090 XR-E premium Q5 in the Fenix. Was my expectation wrong? What is the advantage of the XP-G R5 over the 7090 XR-E Q5?

The width of the beams and the low intensity part of the beam seem about the same. But the center part of the beam in the L1D is brighter and I can see it at longer distances than the center part of the Mini's beam. I am new here, apologies if my syntax is not good.


----------



## 4sevens (Dec 31, 2009)

speedyg said:


> I just got my Quark Mini AA, but am a little disappointed in the beam brightness. My Fenix L1D is brighter. Both lights use 1 AA battery, but I was expecting the new Cree XP-G R5 in the Quark to be brighter than the Cree 7090 XR-E premium Q5 in the Fenix. Was my expectation wrong? What is the advantage of the XP-G R5 over the 7090 XR-E Q5?
> 
> The width of the beams and the low intensity part of the beam seem about the same. But the center part of the beam in the L1D is brighter and I can see it at longer distances than the center part of the Mini's beam. I am new here, apologies if my syntax is not good.


The Mini puts our more total light (28%) due to the difference between Q5's and R5's. 

1) the hotspot you see is brighter in the L1D because it has a deeper reflector and the XR-E has a different emission profile.

2) Not only is the light distributed more in the "flood" area but the hotspot is much much bigger with the mini too so the amount of light is spread out more.

One example is - those little laser pointers are bright right? Well, yes the "spot" is bright because all the energy put focused on the tiny dot. It doesn't take much energy to light a laser - sometimes less than an LED - but the laser has more reach.

These lights are designed to light up a broad area - not to be like laser pointers.

Try this, go for a walk at night with both lights. You'll see that a broader spot will avoid the effect of seeing "tunnel vision." When you have most of your light in the hotspot and the hotspot is small, you pretty much destroy your peripheral vision. The intensity of the spot will saturate your eyes and mess up your night vision. Sure if you're hunting possium, you need a spotlight, but for general use, the mini does exactly what it's designed for. If you need a light with a tight hotspot, take a look at the Quark Turbos.


----------



## Sgt. LED (Dec 31, 2009)

Got my AA neutral.

No beam flaws.
PWM? What PWM, I don't see any!




Great tint.
Great annodizing.
Good throw for a small reflector.
Good threads.
No mode jumping.
Quiet, IE: no squealing or inductor whine I can hear on any level.
Low mode is low enough for me.
Decently spaced levels too.

There are no problems with my light at all. Nothing to whine about here! Thank you for your efforts 4sevens.


----------



## Connor (Dec 31, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> G
> PWM? What PWM, I don't see any!



Really not? 
I can clearly see the PWM in low/medium mode with my QMiNi 123 - but only when watching it out of the corner of my eye (or when I quickly move the light and deliberately look for it).

-Connor


----------



## Stress_Test (Dec 31, 2009)

speedyg said:


> I just got my Quark Mini AA, but am a little disappointed in the beam brightness. My Fenix L1D is brighter. Both lights use 1 AA battery, but I was expecting the new Cree XP-G R5 in the Quark to be brighter than the Cree 7090 XR-E premium Q5 in the Fenix. Was my expectation wrong? What is the advantage of the XP-G R5 over the 7090 XR-E Q5?
> 
> ........




I was curious how the Mini (R5) compared to the L1D (Q5) that I also have. The results are found here:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/253730

I won't ruin the suspense by telling you who won here


----------



## Sgt. LED (Dec 31, 2009)

Connor said:


> Really not?


Nope.

Can't see it on this neutral.


----------



## recDNA (Dec 31, 2009)

speedyg said:


> I just got my Quark Mini AA, but am a little disappointed in the beam brightness. My Fenix L1D is brighter. Both lights use 1 AA battery, but I was expecting the new Cree XP-G R5 in the Quark to be brighter than the Cree 7090 XR-E premium Q5 in the Fenix. Was my expectation wrong? What is the advantage of the XP-G R5 over the 7090 XR-E Q5?
> 
> The width of the beams and the low intensity part of the beam seem about the same. But the center part of the beam in the L1D is brighter and I can see it at longer distances than the center part of the Mini's beam. I am new here, apologies if my syntax is not good.


 
Even my EZCR2 is brighter at its brightest point than the Mini 123 but I have no doubt the Mini is putting out many more lumens. I bet the max candlepower is higher in the EZCR2 though. 

Despite the Q5 vs. R5 issue you mentioned I just saw that the lumens output of the TI CR3X2 is the SAME as the Eagletac T10C2 according to the sphere readings in the sticky thread at the top of the forum. THAT is a surprise. 4 sevens apparently isn't really pushing the XP-G to its limits.


----------



## jsholli (Dec 31, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Even my EZCR2 is brighter at its brightest point than the Mini 123 but I have no doubt the Mini is putting out many more lumens
> ...
> 4 sevens apparently isn't really pushing the XP-G to its limits.


 
Wow, thought the reference to the XP-G was a type-O...I've got a mini 123 coming in the mail and didn't even realize that it had an XP-G! I would have thought it could get better ratings out of the next-gen CREEs, also. Oh well, more output would just mean less runtime


----------



## recDNA (Dec 31, 2009)

jsholli said:


> Wow, thought the reference to the XP-G was a type-O...I've got a mini 123 coming in the mail and didn't even realize that it had an XP-G! I would have thought it could get better ratings out of the next-gen CREEs, also. Oh well, more output would just mean less runtime


 
I'd be happy with 15 minutes of high if there were a commensurate increase in output. 95% of the time I'll use low anyway but when I want high I WANT *HIGH!*


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Dec 31, 2009)

Connor said:


> Really not?
> I can clearly see the PWM in low/medium mode with my QMiNi 123 - but only when watching it out of the corner of my eye (or when I quickly move the light and deliberately look for it).
> 
> -Connor



Wow! I am really sensitive to PWM, I cant notice it in my MiNi. You must be really really sensitive to it!


----------



## Connor (Dec 31, 2009)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Wow! I am really sensitive to PWM, I cant notice it in my MiNi. You must be really really sensitive to it!



Well, like I said, I only see it when the light moves somewhere in the corner of my eye and it is pulsing very fast. I actually noticed it first without looking for it at all, I was like "huh? did this just flicker?". :candle::duh2: 
No worries, though .. in practical use you will never notice this.

Try shaking the light on low in front of you while looking somewhere else and you should be able to see it too.

-Connor


----------



## Stress_Test (Dec 31, 2009)

I can see the PWM too, but only when I sweep the light very fast, or if the light is stationary and I sweep my eyes past it very quick (if that makes sense), then I can see a quick streak of individual flashes. It's very very subtle though. I think I may be more sensitive than most because the PWM on the new Rebel Mini-Mag light is enough to make me slightly nauseous when I use that light on the low mode.


----------



## MarkW (Dec 31, 2009)

Anyone else who has received and can comment on a neutral mini? I'm waiting for my AA but the postman has a long walk from Atlanta. Flood/spot mix, tint, mechanics, ergonomics, anything ? (Waiting is SUCH a pain in the ***).


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Dec 31, 2009)

I remember having a few flupic lights that made me sea sick. :green:


----------



## Duluth Diesel (Dec 31, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> *Suspended pocket carry of the 123*
> 
> Using a "P-7 Suspension Clip", and the stock split ring.



Where can I buy that clip?


----------



## Sgt. LED (Dec 31, 2009)

http://www.jsburlysflashlights.com/...p&cat=keychainitems&catstr=HOME:keychainitems
Says backordered but he can get them back in the store in about a week.
Buy now and wait less believe it or not.  I have 2 of those and made a third from a broken LX2 clip. Great item!

Jon just can't stock that store well enough.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Dec 31, 2009)

Just checked my 123 and can also notice the PWM on both low and medium. It does take some fast fanning to see it. I hadn't seen it in normal use. Has the frequency been mentioned?

Geoff


----------



## Duluth Diesel (Dec 31, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> http://www.jsburlysflashlights.com/...p&cat=keychainitems&catstr=HOME:keychainitems
> Says backordered but he can get them back in the store in about a week.
> Buy now and wait less believe it or not.  I have 2 of those and made a third from a broken LX2 clip. Great item!
> 
> Jon just can't stock that store well enough.



Thank you.


----------



## branespload (Jan 1, 2010)

EngrPaul said:


> OMG, the emitter would FRY at full output on Li-Ions:candle:



oh boy.. I just actually bought he Mini123 Titanium with Q3-5A3 and I intended to use AW RCR123s in it. :[

4sevens gave me the safe answer that the high mode is not supported.

I'm worried about using higher voltage in such a small light made of titanium.. but I wonder -- if I got the Q3-5A3 head, would that get just as hot even if it's not as bright? That's what I would think at first, but it doesnt seem to make sense.. A brighter light given the same circuitry would mean the LED is more efficient and puts out more light and less heat, right?

Anybody care to chime in? I want guilt-free warm shiny lumens :[


----------



## defloyd77 (Jan 1, 2010)

branespload said:


> oh boy.. I just actually bought he Mini123 Titanium with Q3-5A3 and I intended to use AW RCR123s in it. :[
> 
> 4sevens gave me the safe answer that the high mode is not supported.
> 
> ...



Neutral would be worse, lower efficiency, the XP-E has a lower max current off 700 ma vs 1000 ma of the XP-G and I want to say the neutrals have an even lower max current. Not a good idea in my opinion.


----------



## branespload (Jan 1, 2010)

Alas, as expected. Thanks for your input, though. It looks like this beauty will be more of a shelf queen...


----------



## kaichu dento (Jan 1, 2010)

branespload said:


> oh boy.. I just actually bought he Mini123 Titanium with Q3-5A3...


There's a titanium MiNi 123 now?!? Where's the AA version??? :huh:

While we're at it, I want a titanium MiNi CR2!! :naughty:


----------



## lightsandknives (Jan 1, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> There's a titanium MiNi 123 now?!? Where's the AA version??? :huh:
> 
> While we're at it, I want a titanium MiNi CR2!! :naughty:



AA you want......right here


----------



## kaichu dento (Jan 1, 2010)

lightsandknives said:


> AA you want......right here


Lights, thanks for the link, but I already searched and found them! I got two on the way!


----------



## hoongern (Jan 1, 2010)

branespload said:


> oh boy.. I just actually bought he Mini123 Titanium with Q3-5A3 and I intended to use AW RCR123s in it. :[
> 
> 4sevens gave me the safe answer that the high mode is not supported.
> 
> ...



If you're willing to part a few more $s, I would think that the AW LiFePos (3V rechargables) would do perfect? Safe chemistry, and honestly I'd think 500mAh should be about the same as the 16340s.


----------



## mwaldron (Jan 1, 2010)

Sgt. LED said:


> Got my AA neutral.
> ...PWM? What PWM, I don't see any!
> 
> 
> ...





Connor said:


> Really not?
> I can clearly see the PWM in low/medium mode with my QMiNi 123 - but only when watching it out of the corner of my eye (or when I quickly move the light and deliberately look for it).





PoliceScannerMan said:


> Wow! I am really sensitive to PWM, I cant notice it in my MiNi. You must be really really sensitive to it!





Flying Turtle said:


> ...Just checked my 123 and can also notice the PWM on both low and medium....



I think the presence/absence of PWM might be related to the Neutral/Cool tint. 

The way the LED MFG's get warm tints (and presumably neutral) is with a very heavy coating of phosphorescent material deposited on the emitter, much heavier than a typical cool emitter. This is also why warm/neutral tints are less efficient than cool tints. 

When you combine this with PWM, it can lead to a phenomina called Phosphor Persistence which essentially works as an analog debounce circuit to "calm" the harsh PWM. The heavy phosphor layer hasn't finished emitting it's charge before the next PWM cycle recharges it. 

This same principle (although different materials) is why you will seldom/never see the PWM of an incandescent bulb. In the incandescent world the filament just can't cool off fast enough to stop emitting light before the next jolt warms it up again, I think this is the same thing, only now applied to LEDs due to the heavier coating.


----------



## Dead_Nuts (Jan 1, 2010)

Why, oh why do I keep coming back to these pages?!?

I was perfectly happy with my little MiNi 123 -- until I found out they had a very affordable Ti version.

D'oh!


----------



## pobox1475 (Jan 1, 2010)

Do you guys think the Ti's are worth the additional $30?


----------



## mwaldron (Jan 1, 2010)

pobox1475 said:


> Do you guys think the Ti's are worth the additional $30?



Probably not, but I've never owned a Ti light before so I bought one. 

I have a Ti watch I've worn it for over 10 years, and I love it. I loved it so much I bought a 2nd just like it after a poor jeweler broke it and I realized I might not have it someday. I have a few other Ti things, and there's is some geek factor in the metal as well. 

Honestly, I'm sure that 4Sevens's Ti alloy is probably nowhere near as nice as McGizmo's (someday LS20, I'm coming for you...) but I didn't pay $600+ for it either. I like that it has no coating at all, it thus it can't wear off. Just being in my pocket wears off anno, and after a few months lights start looking worn. I'm talking about HA3 too, not maglite anno. I'm pretty sure this won't replace my Ra 100ww as my EDC, but who knows. 

And the MiNi is a cheap enough light to begin with, that the extra few bucks splurge didn't kill me. 

So I get to check out Titanium in a flashlight. I'm sure I'll like it, but I doubt it will start a Ti buying spree in 2010.


----------



## Dead_Nuts (Jan 1, 2010)

pobox1475 said:


> Do you guys think the Ti's are worth the additional $30?



I do. Ti is not as necessary to me as it seems to be to some, but there are advantages to it. My daily watch is Luminox Ti watch and band. But, even though I am a HUGE Ra lights fan and user, there was no way I was going to pay the premium asked to get a Ti version of that light. [Keep in mind that I am one of the crazies who ponied up for the ultra-short production run 200-Cn.]

But when the additional cost is reasonable, I'll consider Ti. And think it is reasonable here.


----------



## mwaldron (Jan 1, 2010)

Dead_Nuts said:


> I do. Ti is not as necessary to me as it seems to be to some, but there are advantages to it. My daily watch is Luminox Ti watch and band. But, even though I am a HUGE Ra lights fan and user, there was no way I was going to pay the premium asked to get a Ti version of that light. [Keep in mind that I am one of the crazies who ponied up for the ultra-short production run 200-Cn.]
> 
> But when the additional cost is reasonable, I'll consider Ti. And think it is reasonable here.



+1 on the Ra, +1 on the Mini TI, but which Luminox do you wear? I wear a Seiko from many years ago and I love the light feel and _thin well formed _case. I got so used to it The only other watch since I'll wear is a Traser P6805 in carbon fiber with a nylon strap band. Not nearly as nice looking as the Seiko but I do like the trits!


----------



## parnass (Jan 1, 2010)

lightsandknives said:


> AA you want......right here



Appears that the titanium AA version web page still has the misprinted runtime of 18 hours at 25 OTF lumens. Hmmm....


----------



## Ian2381 (Jan 1, 2010)

I Just ordered another Mini AA (titanium version).

I already ordered 3 Mini AAs on separate dates and has yet to receive any of them.

Do any of you think I made the right decision?

The Titanium version is my most expensive buy so far.

I'm crossing my fingers.


----------



## Tixx (Jan 1, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> There's a titanium MiNi 123 now?!? Where's the AA version??? :huh:
> 
> While we're at it, I want a titanium MiNi CR2!! :naughty:



CR2! CR2! CR2!


----------



## JeffN (Jan 1, 2010)

Ian2381 said:


> I Just ordered another Mini AA (titanium version).
> 
> Do any of you think I made the right decision?



I don't understand -- didn't you start a thread SUGGESTING a Ti Mini AA? You sound pretty positive in that thread...

EDIT: Correction, I see you started ANOTHER thread stating how "excited" you are about your Ti Mini AA purchase. :thinking:


----------



## applevision (Jan 1, 2010)

Hey guys,

Just posted my comparison between the warm vs. cool here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3221017




:twothumbs


----------



## PerttiK (Jan 1, 2010)

This mini AA being my first xp-g light, I find the tint quite greenish.
Here's a comparison between the mini AA and itp A2.






Atleast for my eyes the difference is much larger IRL than in the picture.
Here's the same picture after applying color enhance with GIMP.






Besides the tint, I quite much like the mini AA.

Just had the light on HI for 1:50 before dropping to medium, using gp recyko that wasn't even a fresh charge.


----------



## patycake57 (Jan 1, 2010)

Flying Turtle said:


> Just checked my 123 and can also notice the PWM on both low and medium. It does take some fast fanning to see it. I hadn't seen it in normal use. Has the frequency been mentioned?
> 
> Geoff


 
4sevens mentioned 2.6khz. I can see also, but it takes a bit of work. I can't see it normally (unlike lights at 200hz).


----------



## bob_ninja (Jan 1, 2010)

I am using mini AA with AW 14500 for about 2 weeks now.
I use the max mode sometimes. The longest episode was for about 3 min walking outside around 0F. I got the 14500 cell for winter use when temperatures outside are below freezing and NiMH doesn't work very well.

As already stated at max mode on 14500 it does warm up fast. However cold below freezing temperature also helps cooling so that it never reached hot temps that would make it uncomfortable to hold. Also I found that it cools down fast once max mode is turned off. So I believe using the max mode is safe(er) during winter when used outside. I will still use medium level most of the time just due to the limited runtime on max mode. However I believe that 4'7 stated that LED and electronics can handle the max mode on 4V so long as the heat doesn't build up too much.

Of course for summer I will switch to NiMH as temperatures are higher and nights are shorter so I don't need the super high output as much. NiMH cell still produces fantastic output.

So use rechargable Lithium cells, albeit within safe limits: short time spans and/or use in cold.


----------



## pobox1475 (Jan 1, 2010)

Any idea of lm output levels 14500 v.s. Eneloop?


----------



## bob_ninja (Jan 1, 2010)

pobox1475 said:


> Any idea of lm output levels 14500 v.s. Eneloop?



It was stated that 14500 produces the same output as 123.
Simply compare the AA and 123 specs.


----------



## ZRXBILL (Jan 1, 2010)

pobox1475 said:


> Any idea of lm output levels 14500 v.s. Eneloop?




4Sevens told me that with the regular Quark AA the lumens go from 109 to 206 with a 14500 battery so I would suppose the jump with the mini would be the same.


----------



## JeffN (Jan 1, 2010)

ZRXBILL said:


> 4Sevens told me that with the regular Quark AA the lumens go from 109 to 206 with a 14500 battery so I would suppose the jump with the mini would be the same.



The Mini AA puts out 90 lumens with a 1.5v battery, per 4Seven's specs. My Mini AA with 14500 appears just a hair brighter than my Mini 123 with the 3v primary (which per 4Seven's specs puts out 189 lumens), but that could be attributable to the calibration of my (aging) Mark I eyeball. Similar jump with a touch lower output than the regular Quark spec you mentioned.


----------



## get-lit (Jan 2, 2010)

Wow all you people that can see that high of a frequency is amazing! I've studied a lot about human temporal acuity and I've never seen anything like these frequencies that some of you are able to see. Maybe the driver circuits are reducing the frequencies for the lower output modes?


----------



## get-lit (Jan 2, 2010)

Regarding aluminum vs titanium, in a flashlight I will take aluminum any day. It's *TEN* times more effective at cooling the LED.


----------



## kaichu dento (Jan 2, 2010)

get-lit said:


> Regarding aluminum vs titanium, in a flashlight I will take aluminum any day. It's *TEN* times more effective at cooling the LED.


Still a personal choice, especially since I hardly ever run on high for more than a few seconds. The incredible array of titanium lights available now is testament to the excellent viability for making lights to the point that I just see the comparisons between aluminum and titanium when it comes to heatsinking as non-issue. If a little's good a lot's better? Maybe for those who run high powered lights on high for extended periods.


----------



## branespload (Jan 2, 2010)

zwerky said:


> my ez123 is using a surefire cr123 (battery production date 2008)
> my new mini123 is using the 4sevens battery it came with.
> 
> i'm still a newbie with these flashlights. so i'm not sure if i'm using all the flashlight terminology correctly. but to my naked eye, my ez123 is brighter. i had my gf doublecheck in case i was losing it and she also thinks that the mini123 isn't all that bright on the brightest setting in comparison. *shrug* i'm not sure if this is because the tint on the mini123 is a bit yellowish so it doesn't seem as bright. either way i may just gift my q-mini this season.
> ...



beam profile and the way the human eye perceive brightness is probably what you're experiencing. the EZ series have much smaller, tighter beams so the lumens are sort of "concentrated" and appear brighter in a more intense way, whereas the mini123 has a wide beam pattern that floods a larger area. the difference in beam pattern makes the mini seem dimmer, but its just less intense, with more overall light OTF. try a ceiling bounce test with both to avoid beam profile differences for a better comparison...


----------



## jorn (Jan 2, 2010)

get-lit said:


> Wow all you people that can see that high of a frequency is amazing! I've studied a lot about human temporal acuity and I've never seen anything like these frequencies that some of you are able to see. Maybe the driver circuits are reducing the frequencies for the lower output modes?


I can see it, but not in normal use. Take it with you into the shower and point the light upwards. All the droplets of water flying trough the beam looks very nice. Looks like a string of 50 droplets in a row when one droplet is passing the beam.. Try to focus on the droplets and you will see it too. :twothumbs


----------



## PerttiK (Jan 2, 2010)

Here's a picture of the pwm compared to itp A3.


----------



## compasillo (Jan 2, 2010)

Great pic! Perttik :thumbsup:


----------



## bob_ninja (Jan 2, 2010)

In case of the regular Al body Mini, which lasts longer, LED or body (assuming average use, LED not pushed too hard)?
What about Ti body Mini, which lasts longer body or LED?

Is there any other reason for Ti body besides the appearance and bragging rights? I supposed if the head died eventually then a replacement head could be mounted on a still intact Ti body?


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Jan 2, 2010)

bob_ninja said:


> Is there any other reason for Ti body besides the appearance and bragging rights?



Lighter weight.

Not enough for me to want Ti over aluminum.


----------



## PeaceOfMind (Jan 2, 2010)

Dude Dudeson said:


> Lighter weight.
> 
> Not enough for me to want Ti over aluminum.


 
That is not correct. Aluminum is lighter than Titanium. Titanium is stronger however, and has better strength-to-weight ratio.


----------



## Connor (Jan 2, 2010)

One more reason against Titanium: If there is no surface treatment, Titanium becomes scratched *really* fast.

I don't deny those Titanium Quarks look *very* nice, but at least in the case of the QMiNi 123 on high it will be a real LED killer too .. all the heat generated stays in the head and has nowhere to go.
That being said, I wouldn't mind a QMiNi 123 made from rhodinized sterling silver. 

-Connor


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Jan 2, 2010)

PeaceOfMind said:


> That is not correct. Aluminum is lighter than Titanium. Titanium is stronger however, and has better strength-to-weight ratio.



DOH!

A lot of times Ti is used to get away with lighter weights without losing strength, but in this case I was completely wrong.

I wasn't actually saying Ti itself was lighter, just that many items made of it are lighter than the alternatives.


----------



## combinatorix (Jan 2, 2010)

Connor said:


> One more reason against Titanium: If there is no surface treatment, Titanium becomes scratched *really* fast.
> 
> I don't deny those Titanium Quarks look *very* nice, but at least in the case of the QMiNi 123 on high it will be a real LED killer too .. all the heat generated stays in the head and has nowhere to go.
> That being said, I wouldn't mind a QMiNi 123 made from rhodinized sterling silver.
> ...



There's a huge variety of titanium alloys, many of which can be solution treated, heat treated to pretty high hardnesses (RC 50+), without surface treatment. 

I think the issue is just that most flashlight manufacturers use softer alloys and don't heat treat (or use alloys that can't be heat treated) due to manufacturing costs.


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jan 2, 2010)

Passing on the Ti.

In this case of a tiny lightweight light *my uses* will be hampered by both the higher weight and the decreased heatsinking. I admit it does look very nice and the neutral tint option is great to have.


----------



## Connor (Jan 2, 2010)

combinatorix said:


> There's a huge variety of titanium alloys, many of which can be solution treated, heat treated to pretty high hardnesses (RC 50+), without surface treatment.
> 
> I think the issue is just that most flashlight manufacturers use softer alloys and don't heat treat (or use alloys that can't be heat treated) due to manufacturing costs.



Hi combinatorix,

I am aware that there are plenty of "hardening treatments" available for Titanium - titanium watch bracelets are a good example for this. Unfortunately there seem to be only 2 alternatives: relatively cheap bracelets without any hardening that scratch very easily .. and expensive bracelets which are way more scratch resistant than stainless steel. 

I really like Titanium for many of its features but I still don't think it has a place in small high-powered flashlights, scratch-resistant or not. I am a strong believer in the "form follows function" mantra, or in this case "material follows function" and Titanium just doesn't cut it when there are hot LEDs involved. :-(

-Connor


----------



## recDNA (Jan 2, 2010)

How about a nice silvery brushed aluminum then?


----------



## Connor (Jan 2, 2010)

recDNA said:


> How about a nice silvery brushed aluminum then?



Unfortunately it will not stay silvery for long without anodizing or another surface treatment - aluminum oxidizes quickly and forms a nasty black oxide. :|


----------



## HKJ (Jan 2, 2010)

Connor said:


> Unfortunately it will not stay silvery for long without anodizing or another surface treatment - aluminum oxidizes quickly and forms a nasty black oxide. :|



It might form a black oxide in a pocket, but untreated aluminum does not always do that.


----------



## Beamhead (Jan 2, 2010)

If you don't like Ti don't buy. :shrug:
These forums are riddled with the debate whether Ti is good for use in flashlights. At least there is an Al offering in regards to these lights.


----------



## kaichu dento (Jan 2, 2010)

Beamhead said:


> If you don't like Ti don't buy. :shrug:
> These forums are riddled with the debate whether Ti is good for use in flashlights. At least there is an Al offering in regards to these lights.


+1

Everyone makes up their own mind; enough of trying to decide for others...


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Jan 2, 2010)

FINALLY just got my mini 123. (personal problem, not 4sevens)

I too ended up with the loose head thing, but I really have to look for it to notice. That is, I have to physically rock the thing with decent force to feel it. It is in no way loose enough to come unscrewed on it's own. I also did have to find the sweet spot to turn the light off and not have it activate from the head being pressed down.

That didn't take more than a minute to figure out.

My tint is greenish compared to my M60, this is something I couldn't care less about though. I really couldn't notice it until I made a direct comparison on a white wall.

The light is obviously not a Surefire in terms of construction, but it's clearly no POS either. For the money it RULES OVER ALL OTHERS as far as I'm concerned.

Even if it breaks in six months I'll probably still buy another one. I figure it'll most likely last a lot longer than that though.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Jan 2, 2010)

lovecpflovecpflovecpf


----------



## SoCalMan (Jan 2, 2010)

Connor said:


> I am aware that there are plenty of "hardening treatments" available for Titanium - titanium watch bracelets are a good example for this. Unfortunately there seem to be only 2 alternatives: relatively cheap bracelets without any hardening that scratch very easily .. and expensive bracelets which are way more scratch resistant than stainless steel.
> 
> -Connor


 
A "watchaholic" would also be aware of a titanium treatment used by Citizen watch company called Duratect. IIRC, its a glass resin coating applied to the case of their titanium watches. 

My wife and I have some watches with this coating and after five years they have, so far, resisted all scratches in normal wear.

Obviously, I don't know how this treatment would strand up to a light scraping against keys on a key chain, etc.

Interestingly, Duratect was a proprietary coating, and Citizen *USA*, Inc, never applied this coating to the titanium watches that they imported into the U.S. So if you wanted a watch with this coating, you had to typically order one through an Asian reseller.


----------



## PerttiK (Jan 2, 2010)

I like ss and titanium because there is no surface treatment to wear of.
Doesn't look so used after few months.


----------



## get-lit (Jan 2, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> +1
> 
> Everyone makes up their own mind; enough of trying to decide for others...


 
I wish politicians would hear that...
http://news.yahoo.com/video/us-15749625/new-year-new-laws-17406295


----------



## kaichu dento (Jan 2, 2010)

PerttiK said:


> I like ss and titanium because there is no surface treatment to wear of.
> Doesn't look so used after few months.


That's what I like about them too, if they get any wear, it shows as additional beauty, which of course is in the eyes of the beholder, but flaked and scraped anodization just looks... not good to me... 


get-lit said:


> I wish politicians would hear that...
> http://news.yahoo.com/video/us-15749625/new-year-new-laws-17406295


Yeah, no kidding!


----------



## Mr. Shawn (Jan 2, 2010)

EngrPaul said:


> *Suspended pocket carry of the 123*
> 
> Using a "P-7 Suspension Clip", and the stock split ring.



Thanks for the great tip, EngrPaul! I have a NW MiNi AA and found that the Fenix clip that came with my L0D Q4 fits the MiNi well. It takes a little stretching but it's secure and makes me happier since I need clips on my EDC lights.

http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_27_38&products_id=184


----------



## Blades (Jan 3, 2010)

I just received my mini Quark 123 today. 
The light it is replacing, a Fenix P1:





I like the UI. I think it will make a nice spare battery carrier for my Ra Clicky. 


Jason


----------



## HeyGuysWatchThis (Jan 3, 2010)

Mr. Shawn said:


> Thanks for the great tip, EngrPaul! I have a NW MiNi AA and found that the Fenix clip that came with my L0D Q4 fits the MiNi well. It takes a little stretching but it's secure and makes me happier since I need clips on my EDC lights.
> 
> http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_27_38&products_id=184


 
Finally! I've been waiting for someone to find something like this! Can we get a picture of this setup? Can the Fenix logo be easily be taken off with sandpaper, or something?


----------



## Mr. Shawn (Jan 3, 2010)

HeyGuysWatchThis said:


> Finally! I've been waiting for someone to find something like this! Can we get a picture of this setup? Can the Fenix logo be easily be taken off with sandpaper, or something?



I'm still working on my photo skills, but all I did was pull apart the clip with my hands to widen its diameter to get the clip on the tail, and then push it down onto the body, where it's totally secure in a bezel-down position. The only thing I've noticed is that since the top of the clip rests on the light's larger-diameter tail (and the clip's body is on the smaller-diameter section of the light), the clip is somewhat canted forward. However, this position seems to make the clip more resistant to extreme bending due to its closer proximity to the tail when opening the clip.

I have not tried to remove the Fenix logo from the clip and don't know how yet; I don't mind the logo as long as the clip works.

On another note re: clips, has anyone tried installing the clip from the River Rock 1AA light on the MiNi 123 light? I would like to know if the clip fits prior to ordering the 123 version. The RR clip is too big for the AA light.


----------



## HeyGuysWatchThis (Jan 3, 2010)

Mr. Shawn said:


> I'm still working on my photo skills, but all I did was pull apart the clip with my hands to widen its diameter to get the clip on the tail, and then push it down onto the body, where it's totally secure in a bezel-down position. The only thing I've noticed is that since the top of the clip rests on the light's larger-diameter tail (and the clip's body is on the smaller-diameter section of the light), the clip is somewhat canted forward. However, this position seems to make the clip more resistant to extreme bending due to its closer proximity to the tail when opening the clip.
> 
> I have not tried to remove the Fenix logo from the clip and don't know how yet; I don't mind the logo as long as the clip works.
> 
> On another note re: clips, has anyone tried installing the clip from the River Rock 1AA light on the MiNi 123 light? I would like to know if the clip fits prior to ordering the 123 version. The RR clip is too big for the AA light.



Ummm, oops, I didn't read your post properly. I have the 123 version. Has anyone found a third party clip that will work on the Mini 123?


----------



## pobox1475 (Jan 4, 2010)

> Has anyone found a third party clip that will work on the Mini 123?


 I really like the suspended in pocket clip idea.


----------



## ELDRAW (Jan 4, 2010)

Received my Mini AA today and couldnt be more happy. Great little light with a very nice UI. The tint seems fine, tried a white wall test and to my untrained eyes the light is pure white and didn't seem to have any kind of blue or green tint. Thank you 4sevens for such a sweet little light!


----------



## ZRXBILL (Jan 4, 2010)

Got my mini AA today as well & I love it.
Absolutely no head wobble or mode skipping and the threads are perfectly smooth.
Very slight amount of green to the tint which I don't mind at all.:twothumbs
The 14500 in there makes it MUCH brighter, and warmer as well, but since high wont be used for more than 5 or 6 minutes at a time that's no problem.
I'm happy with it.

Also no finger print on the inside of the lens.


----------



## Duluth Diesel (Jan 4, 2010)

I received my second Quark Mini 123 today. Now me and the wife both have one for EDC. These are great little lights. Smaller than my Fenix P1 and P1D CE (which are still working perfectly fine). :twothumbs

Next I'll be ordering one of the new Zebralight clickys when they start to ship.


----------



## bondr006 (Jan 4, 2010)

Got my Mini 123 on Friday, and it has not left my person since. It displays none of the problems that some others have mentioned. It has a beautiful white beam with just the very slightest hint of green if you compare it with other lights on a white wall. The threading is beautiful and smooth, and I don't have to loosen it much t keep it from coming on. I also love the finish and knurling. I could not be happier and more wowed that a light this small has such a BIG personality. When I set it next to my other 123 lights, I am simply amazed at just how small it is by comparison.

SF Milky ME1B, SF E1L, JB RRT-0, LF LF3XT, Mini 123


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Jan 4, 2010)

Duluth Diesel said:


> I received my second Quark Mini 123 today.



I think this will be the first flashlight to earn that honor with me - and I never thought I'd buy two of the same ever.

It's just unbeatable for it's price - I really want a few of these lying around in various places.


----------



## Beamhead (Jan 4, 2010)

Dude Dudeson said:


> I think this will be the first flashlight to earn that honor with me - and I never thought I'd buy two of the same ever.


I say you lose your posting privileges.:nana:


----------



## kaichu dento (Jan 5, 2010)

Dude Dudeson said:


> I think this will be the first flashlight to earn that honor with me - and I never thought I'd buy two of the same ever.
> 
> It's just unbeatable for it's price - I really want a few of these lying around in various places.





kaichu dento said:


> So you went ahead and ordered another one? Send me your PayPal address and I'll split it with you. :thumbsup:


Didn't you see this post a while back? Since you got ripped for your first light I was going to split the loss with you; all I need is a PP address! 

I'm sure liking my first MiNI AA and hope that I'll have five more neutral tint and titanium ones waiting for me at the post office this week! Can't wait to give some of these away to my friends and family!


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Jan 5, 2010)

^^^PM sent^^^

Many thanks and a definite CPF cheer forthcoming!


----------



## brianch (Jan 5, 2010)

Any Canadians here ordered the lights from 47's US? I've been waiting for this thing to arrive since the 20th of Dec. I'm starting to become a bit worried...


----------



## AFAustin (Jan 5, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> Didn't you see this post a while back? Since you got ripped for your first light I was going to split the loss with you; all I need is a PP address!



Very generous gesture, k.d.! :thumbsup:

Andrew


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Jan 5, 2010)

brianch said:


> Any Canadians here ordered the lights from 47's US? I've been waiting for this thing to arrive since the 20th of Dec. I'm starting to become a bit worried...


 

One word=CUSTOMS:naughty::naughty::naughty:


lovecpf


----------



## applevision (Jan 5, 2010)

AFAustin said:


> Very generous gesture, k.d.! :thumbsup:
> 
> Andrew



+1!!!


----------



## swrdply400mrelay (Jan 5, 2010)

HeyGuysWatchThis said:


> So has anyone come up with a way to put a pocket clip on the Mini 123 yet?



+1


----------



## alpha788 (Jan 5, 2010)

brianch said:


> Any Canadians here ordered the lights from 47's US? I've been waiting for this thing to arrive since the 20th of Dec. I'm starting to become a bit worried...



Why didn't you order from 4Sevens Canada? Got mine within a week from Eric in Toronto. Better yet since you're in TO, you might have been able to pick them up at their TO store.
lovecpf


----------



## PeaceOfMind (Jan 5, 2010)

alpha788 said:


> Why didn't you order from 4Sevens Canada? Got mine within a week from Eric in Toronto. Better yet since you're in TO, you might have been able to pick them up at their TO store.
> lovecpf


 

+1

Eric is good to deal with. Worth the few extra bucks to get it locally. During the non-Christmas season I get stuff from him in <24 hours.


----------



## brianch (Jan 6, 2010)

The purchase was very spontaneous and impulsive for me. If I waited till the next day I probably would have changed my mind. I have already changed my mind but I JUST GOT IT IN THE MAIL. And I actually like it very much. Is it worth it for double the EOS A1 price? No I don't think so.. But it is a very neat light. Knurling is not bad, threads are good, light came lubed, emitter perfectly centered, I'm a happy camper. The light is much smaller then I would have thought as well very light. The light is floodier then my single 123a cell lights. My Q5s offer more flood but I was expecting that. I got a whole bunch of stuff in the mail, its like a second christmas for me. Got some watches in, a bunchhh of DX stuff I've been waiting for since last year (literally). One item from DX that suprised me was sku.26122. I quickly jumped on and ordered 3 more as gifts to others. It is decent brightness for a AA light and it looks pretty darn cool in person. Plus the quality is not bad for $15, it seems to be real stainless steel. Well back to the topic. I GOT MY MINI 123~! YAY


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Jan 6, 2010)

swrdply400mrelay said:


> +1



Hardly original, and not a clip, but this worked so perfectly for the Mini 123 I thought I'd post it. I realized this light is so small and lightweight that were it to fall to the ground I'd likely not hear it, so I decided something more secure was in order. This carabiner is pretty small and unobtrusive - I put a dime on the Quark lens for scale...


----------



## T-3 (Jan 6, 2010)

Great idea... I like it! :laughing: I received my two mini 123's from Eric in Toronto a little over a week ago and I am very impressed with them. I got the Li-Ion's with them and they work great! Haven't had any problems (yet) with over-heating... I just don't leave it on high mode too long. One light went to my wife for her purse and one on my key chain. BTW... Eric at 4Sevens in Toronto has been nothing short of amazing so far with stuff I've bought from him. Excellent delivery and superb customer service... THANKS ERIC!!!

Gotta be honest and say that the twisty interface does take a little getting used to, but not too bad at all. Just gotta make sure when turning it off to twist enough so it doesn't come on if it's bent a little, as there is slight play in the thread. :thinking:


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Jan 6, 2010)

T-3 said:


> Gotta be honest and say that the twisty interface does take a little getting used to, but not too bad at all. Just gotta make sure when turning it off to twist enough so it doesn't come on if it's bent a little, as there is slight play in the thread. :thinking:



This is an issue I hope they improve on with future batches. Very minor issue, but an issue nonetheless.

It's a small enough issue (for this price level anyway) that it won't stop me from buying a few more though.


----------



## recDNA (Jan 6, 2010)

I'm mad. If the titanium mini had been available first - or had I known it was going to become available I never would have bought the aluminum Mini. I'd rather have the titanium but I'd have absolutely no use for the origninal one if I did. Too many tiny flashlights now.


----------



## branespload (Jan 7, 2010)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnLcR2LNPpQ

A comparison/review of the Quark Mini 123 Aluminum XP-G R5 vs the Quark Mini 123 Titanium Q3-5A3

I'm not a super flashlight expert, especially compared to the members here, but I made this video for another forum and also to practice my speaking skills/review videos.


----------



## Ian2381 (Jan 7, 2010)

I just receive my Quark mini AA today together with some other lights I also ordered.

Its a great light and I have nothing to complain.:thumbsup:


----------



## photonstorm (Jan 7, 2010)

recDNA said:


> I'm mad. If the titanium mini had been available first - or had I known it was going to become available I never would have bought the aluminum Mini. I'd rather have the titanium but I'd have absolutely no use for the origninal one if I did. Too many tiny flashlights now.


 
You can always sell or trade your original Quark MiNi if the Ti is the version you really want. I'm sure it wouldn't take too long. 
I also bought an aluminum MiNi but was thrilled to hear that a Ti model was going to be availalbe at a slight premium. Especially with a neutral tint. Most Ti lights are about $30 more. I just hope when I order mine they are still available since they're selling fast.


----------



## windstrings (Jan 7, 2010)

recDNA said:


> I'm mad. If the titanium mini had been available first - or had I known it was going to become available I never would have bought the aluminum Mini. I'd rather have the titanium but I'd have absolutely no use for the origninal one if I did. Too many tiny flashlights now.



All lights that are outdated and I know I will never use.... I give away to people I know will use them and be blessed.

Unlike many who love to collect... I avoid having similar lights that do the same thing..... I upgrade and pass down!.....

The aluminum mini would be a great gift for your Dad or Son or even wife in an emergency.........

If the light is a high dollar light... I sell those and suck up my losses and figure its money for time enjoyed.


----------



## PerttiK (Jan 7, 2010)

Am I the onlyone who would like to see these lights with Q5?
I find the Q5 tint quite pleasing.


----------



## LightWalker (Jan 7, 2010)

PerttiK said:


> Am I the onlyone who would like to see these lights with Q5?
> I find the Q5 tint quite pleasing.


 
There is a bit of a tint lottery with the Q5 also. My Quark Mini CR123 with XP-G R5 has a nice warmish tint and is very bright. The XP-G will be brighter and more efficient than a Q5 but a Q5 may throw a little better. I believe the XP-E will throw the best due to a smaller/tighter focused hotspot.


----------



## PerttiK (Jan 7, 2010)

Maybe the AA version is a bit underdriven?
Can we assume the driver is the same on both versions?
I'm thinking the lower levels of the AA version tricks my eyes and makes the tint look more greenish.
Does anyone have a comparison beamshot of both versions side by side, both running on primaries?


----------



## kaichu dento (Jan 7, 2010)

windstrings said:


> All lights that are outdated and I know I will never use.... I give away to people I know will use them and be blessed.
> 
> Unlike many who love to collect... I avoid having similar lights that do the same thing..... I upgrade and pass down!.....
> 
> ...


Windstrings, great post and it should automatically come up anytime some complains that their newly purchased light got trumped.

Like you said in closing, any losses we incur while buying lights we decide to sell later are less than the 100% loss if we'd spent the same money on beer!


----------



## thedeske (Jan 7, 2010)

Mini 123 arrived today. Wow, tiny little thing.
I didn't know if I'd like the twist UI, but it's very well done on this light. A quick A/B against my PD30 really shows the greenish tint, but I see it as different, not bad. 
Decent knurling and the inset battery tube makes it easy to twist with one hand.

My mechanic neighbor has been interested in my Fenix PD30 for some time, but after handing him this little guy and the lanyard he was all over me for a link (especially after a quick test under the hood of an Alfa) He wants something to wear and shine into engines. He thinks the twist is better suited to endure oily hands over a switch. We'll see soon enough.

I think the tiny size charmed us both... for the moment


----------



## NutSAK (Jan 7, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> any losses we incur while buying lights we decide to sell later are less than the 100% loss if we'd spent the same money on beer!



A beer buzz is worth something.... isn't it? :drunk:


----------



## kaichu dento (Jan 7, 2010)

NutSAK said:


> A beer buzz is worth something.... isn't it? :drunk:


A buzz is worth something... I stand corrected! :laughing:


----------



## LightWalker (Jan 7, 2010)

PerttiK said:


> Maybe the AA version is a bit underdriven?
> Can we assume the driver is the same on both versions?
> I'm thinking the lower levels of the AA version tricks my eyes and makes the tint look more greenish.
> Does anyone have a comparison beamshot of both versions side by side, both running on primaries?


 
I have a Fenix light with a Q5 that is a little green and have read reports of XP-G's with greenish tints. I think the only way to guarantee a certain tint is to get a warm tint.

A bit of green tint is not so bad outside where the grass and leaves are green.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Jan 7, 2010)

NutSAK said:


> A beer buzz is worth something.... isn't it? :drunk:


 




lovecpf


----------



## thedeske (Jan 7, 2010)

Lightcrazycanuck said:


> lovecpf



Sillyness - Partial to Scottish fluids here - a nice 21 soothes the cold 

:devil:


----------



## Beamhead (Jan 7, 2010)

NutSAK said:


> A beer buzz is worth something.... isn't it? :drunk:


 
Many a child are the result of the above.


----------



## recDNA (Jan 7, 2010)

windstrings said:


> All lights that are outdated and I know I will never use.... I give away to people I know will use them and be blessed.
> 
> Unlike many who love to collect... I avoid having similar lights that do the same thing..... I upgrade and pass down!.....
> 
> ...


 
Me too...worked my way through my relatives and closest friends. Next will be the guy asking for spare change! Seriously, I don't like everyone to know how many flashlights I buy. "Normal" people (like my relatives) would think I was NUTS


----------



## bondr006 (Jan 8, 2010)

Thought I'd post a couple shots of my Mini 123. I really like this light a lot. 

 Think I'm going to have to get the Mini AA also.


----------



## JeffN (Jan 8, 2010)

bondr006 said:


> Thought I'd post a couple shots of my Mini 123. I really like this light a lot.
> 
> Think I'm going to have to get the Mini AA also.


 
I really like my Mini 123 and added a Mini AA. The Mini 123 went back in the box, the Mini AA went in my pocket with a 14500. Added a Mini AA Ti -- on a 17 ft. ceiling comparison, the difference between the two AA lights is virtually imperceptible to my MkI eyeball.

The Mini 123 does throw a bit tighter and therefore has a brighter hot spot. The AA got the nod for EDC because it fits in my pocket better.


----------



## Dead_Nuts (Jan 8, 2010)

Got my Ti MiNi 123 yesterday. It is a beautiful little light!


----------



## lenny (Jan 8, 2010)

A while back I posted that I'd gotten my Mini 123 and that I loved it except for the loose threads. I had to back it off quite a ways so it wouldn't come on in my pocket.
I emailed 4 Sevens and they said to send it back for replacement.
Got the new one like 3 days later and all I can say is wow. The threads have much less slop. Now, I only have to unscrew it about 1/4 turn so it doesn't come on in my pocket. Plus, it's very easy to use 1 handed now.:twothumbs
This would be a great light at twice the price! (well maybe 1.5 times the price)
My Fenix P1D CE is very lonely.
Lenny


----------



## Simon520 (Jan 8, 2010)

I Tested a MINI-AA Titanium with XP-G (not warm) with a bench power supply at 4 volts. This can supply up to 35 AMPS but I did see some sag in the voltage. I did this to simulate a typical 14500 Li-Ion voltage. I don't have a DMM that will measure current without introducing severe losses, so I used an inline device that I've used on RC models and Ham radio stuff: a Watt's Up meter. It has a resolution of 0.01 amp with worst case 2% error.

Current draw at 4.0 volts (14500 approximation):

LOW: too low to measure with my equipment (below 0.01 amps or 10 mA draw at 4.0 volts).

MED: 0.02 to 0.03 amps or 20 to 30 mA (approx. 0.1 watt).

HIGH: 0.99 to 1.01 amps or 990 to 1010 mA (3.89 watts with a voltage sag to 3.89 volts).

I had the bare head exposed, so I didn't do the high power tests for very long but I didn't notice any trend toward amp rating changing with temperature (most I held it for was 10 seconds). I could hear a whine on low and medium at times. 

Another CPF'er, ergotelis noted the following:

Amp reading on Mini AA with eneloop:

high: 0,85amp
med: 0,35amp
low: 0,05 amp

Lux reading on high at 1m MiniAA with eneloop: 756 lux


At high on an Eneloop, it appears to be pulling between 1.02 and 1.19 watts depending on the Eneloop's actual voltage (somewhere between 1.2 and 1.4 volts, I would asssume under load).

My take on this is that the XP-G is pretty darn efficient, because at high on an AA at 1 watt it's putting out 90 claimed emitter lumens.


----------



## dandism (Jan 8, 2010)

I also did a little testing and compared my mini AA to my dad's iTP A2:

with Eneloop:
. low med high (Amp)

mini: 0.06 0.34 0.87

A2: 0.04 0.28 0.84

The Mini appears to use more current throughout the range.


----------



## gbelleh (Jan 8, 2010)

Finally, I can practically carry my Mini 123! This is such a handy little clip! And it works just as well on all these lights. :thumbsup:


----------



## fisk-king (Jan 8, 2010)

where did you get it at?


----------



## defloyd77 (Jan 8, 2010)

Simon520 said:


> My take on this is that the XP-G is pretty darn efficient, because at high on an AA at 1 watt it's putting out 90 claimed emitter lumens.



Not 90 emitter lumens, 90 out the front lumens.


----------



## gbelleh (Jan 8, 2010)

fisk-king said:


> where did you get it at?



If you mean the clip, I got mine from Tec Accessories (their price + shipping was the lowest I found). It's the P-7 suspension clip.

The McGizmo nano clip is from lighthound.


----------



## burntoshine (Jan 9, 2010)

the mcgizmo nano clip is perfect for keychains.

...i need to get me one of those little suspension guys.


----------



## PerttiK (Jan 9, 2010)

If you're having trouble fitting protected 14500 in AA mini, bend the spring to a smaller diameter so it fits in the recess on the bottom.
Not pretty but now does't crush the cell.


----------



## jorn (Jan 9, 2010)

PerttiK said:


> If you're having trouble fitting protected 14500 in AA mini, bend the spring to a smaller diameter so it fits in the recess on the bottom.
> Not pretty but now does't crush the cell.


I cut off 3mm at the base of the spring. When fully compressed the first 3mm of he spring went under "the base of the spring" making it lay on top of itself. Now the spring builds 50% less fully compressed. (that gave me about 0,5mm more space for battery i guess, and now i don't crush my aw 14500 :twothumbs)


----------



## PerttiK (Jan 9, 2010)

I had trouble fitting trustfire in there.
Used to fit nicely without the spring, but the thickness of the first rounds of the spring itsef was too much when it was sitting on top of that ridge.


----------



## computerpro3 (Jan 9, 2010)

AW 14500's fit without a problem or any modifying.


----------



## SoCalMan (Jan 9, 2010)

computerpro3 said:


> AW 14500's fit without a problem or any modifying.


 
If I may, what brand are you using?


----------



## se4g4e (Jan 9, 2010)

SoCalMan said:


> If I may, what brand are you using?


The brand is AW: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=200812


----------



## pobox1475 (Jan 9, 2010)

> AW 14500's fit without a problem or any modifying.


 +1 in Mini Ti AA.


----------



## rayman (Jan 9, 2010)

Just bought the MiNi 123 NW after think for 2 days wether buying the Al or Ti version . I think the Al-version will be better for EDCing. The time will tell if it'll replace my EX10 .

rayman


----------



## windstrings (Jan 9, 2010)

recDNA said:


> Me too...worked my way through my relatives and closest friends. Next will be the guy asking for spare change! Seriously, I don't like everyone to know how many flashlights I buy. "Normal" people (like my relatives) would think I was NUTS




yes, your right.... I have one older guy I've given 3 lights and a charger too.... he's just as big a junkie as me, but can't afford the expense.... he carries his light everywhere and I know he appreciates and loves them so he gets most of my goodies I don't use... the rest go to my relatives..... I keep or sell all the really expensive stuff... expensive being anything over 200.00 bucks or so.


----------



## paulr (Jan 10, 2010)

I was away for the holidays and when I picked up the mail today, my new Mini 123 in neutral tint was there waiting for me. I had pre-ordered it in December and gotten an email around January 3 saying it had been shipped. Kudos to David for getting the light out ahead of schedule (I think the "advertised" date was around January 7 but frankly I expected it to slip).

The light is certainly small, noticibly smaller and lighter than my Fenix P1CE (that's the one-level P1 successor, not the slightly larger digital version). In "high" mode by eyeball ceiling bounce test, it seems around half a stop brighter than the P1CE. I like the flat tail with the radiused lanyard hole, though I wish the hole was a tad larger with more relief, even if it made the light a tiny bit bigger. The beam has a slightly larger hotspot and larger spill than the P1CE. I can't really compare the hotspot brightness. The tint is definitely warmer and this is very noticable and nice. On the other hand, I don't think the tint matters that much for a reflectored, narrowbeam light. Tint matters for close-up applications which call for a wide beam. So the McGizmo Sundrop is still my favorite light of all time, but for the mini-123, I might order the XG version sometime once they get the tint lottery sorted out. The beam itself is nice and smooth due to the orange-peel reflector. 

Re the UI, it is of course a subjective matter and I realize I'm not following the popular choice, but I'm afraid I don't care for the L-M-H activation sequence. One doesn't buy a 100+ lumen light to use it in 3 lumen mode. I think the Fenix LD01 is more sensible in using M-L-H. Medium is bright enough for most things, low is a battery stretcher for long steady illumination, and high is a battery stomping "turbo" mode. For that matter, I'd be happy to get rid of "medium" an just have high-low (in that order) like the Icon lights or Surefire E1B. I'm unimpressed by concerns that having it activate "high" first will wipe out your night vision or whatever. Just put your thumb over the bezel when you turn it on, or use a dimmer light or headlamp or something, if night vision is a concern. My own tendency is to use a wide-beam light or headlamp for most close-up stuff, and a 123 light as a backup when I want to spot something in the distance, which means the "low" mode is just an annoying obstacle almost all the time. I'm fine with its existence but it should be tucked away behind the other modes, not the first mode that the light activates. I also think I'd have preferred a smooth reflector for more throw, even if that caused artifacts in the beam.

It is good that the strobe and SOS modes are tucked away where they're hard to trigger accidentally. I could do without them but I know some users wanted them. I notice the SOS mode uses PWM, i.e. doesn't run at full brightness, which is fine. The stated runtime is 7.2 hours, which seems a bit bogus. If you're going to have an SOS mode at all, I think it should run long enough to signal through a long winter night starting from a not-completely-fresh battery, even if that means backing off the brightness some more.

I'm also not too impressed with the construction. The spring in the battery tube is thin and maybe susceptable to snapping off easily (I've seen this happen in some other gadgets), causing complete failure of the light. The anode contact is just a spot on the PC board. The aluminum is quite thin and there is slop in the threads. The light heats up rather quickly in high mode. The multiple diameters may save a few cubic mm in volume but they look a little cheesy. Overall this light feels like an economy, "deal extreme" type of light rather than a Fenix-level (i.e. semi-premium) light like I was hoping for. I do agree that the price is quite low and the light is good value for the money, but I'd rather pay more and get something of higher quality, if it was available.

The light came with rather bulky semi-fancy packaging (waste of money), a battery (can always use one I guess), a spare O-ring (nice touch), and a neck lanyard (non-breakaway paracord, ouch!) with a cheesy imitation McGizmo mini-clip and very thin, cheesy split ring. Frankly I would have offered the lanyard as an optional accessory since it doesn't seem useful enough to be worth shipping with the light. At least, the included lanyard should have a breakway tab. It could also be thinner, in keeping with the ultralight scheme. The thin breakaway lanyard that came with the old CMG Infinity lights was quite nice, for example.

The design of this light was driven at least partly by the wishes of ultralight hikers, who want a single light that does many tasks adequately. There is always a tension between doing multiple tasks adequately, and doing just a few tasks perfectly. I think this light will be more satisfying for those seeking the "multi-function" approach than the "perfection" approach. As a user/carrier of multiple lights I prefer the "perfection" approach so I hope 4x7 will offer some lights in that direction as their product line expands.


----------



## jsholli (Jan 10, 2010)

I was quite pleasently surprised with my lanyard; true, it's not the most proportionally suited for the mini, but I was needing one  It just so happens to be attached to the mini right now---with an even smaller oval split ring


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Jan 10, 2010)

paulr said:


> Overall this light feels like an economy, "deal extreme" type of light rather than a Fenix-level (i.e. semi-premium) light like I was hoping for. I do agree that the price is quite low and the light is good value for the money, but I'd rather pay more and get something of higher quality, if it was available.



I'd gladly do both!

That is, I'd gladly pay more for a more hardy version of this light, but I also like the current version as is mainly for the price.

I regard my mini 123 as being SOMEwhat "disposable". For the money, if it breaks within a year I'm not going to feel too bad. If I lose it I'm not going to feel too bad. If it breaks because I drop it off a roof I'm not going to feel too bad.

Well, relatively speaking anyway lol!


----------



## da.gee (Jan 10, 2010)

paulr - sounds like you have some fairly specific requirements and expectations. Nothing wrong with that but they seem a little unrealistic for this light. I see the MiNi as a general purpose light whose uses apply to a _general_ audience. If you were looking for a single speed high output light this clearly wasn't the design intent of the MiNis. At the price point it is a lot of bang for the buck. I'm guessing perfection will cost a bit more than $39. For the price of your Sundrop you could buy a lot of MiNis. There are a few annoyances with the light, mainly the thread thing on the 123, (not a problem on the AA), but there's a lot to like particularly when cost is considered. Threads on the Ti 123 are better in the slop regard.


----------



## pobox1475 (Jan 10, 2010)

_In a nut shell;_

I have had my Mini warm Ti AA for several days now. Yes it's threads are a little gritty as I anticipated from other posts. Seeing that it only has to be twisted quarter turn or so to use not an issue to me. Yes it gets hot on high with 14500 in short order. Intend to use mid mode mostly and respect the use of high. Finish appears flawless to me. Did not have any issues with the spring. Beam is surprisingly nice from it's small head. Very tight hot spot with ample spill. Lanyard is too thick and long for the light's stature. It however *is* an added accessory and I did even know it was below packaging until I looked for the split ring someone posted that they ship with. Lanyard can be shortened and made to _break-away_ by simply cutting it and utilizing one of the spring secured cord locks as a termination point at the absolute end of cord. Overall completely satisfied with what it is and does. Intend to pocket carry with a suspended clip when a larger light is not warranted. Like during warm months and traveling light or wearing semi formal attire.


----------



## paulr (Jan 10, 2010)

da.gee said:


> paulr - sounds like you have some fairly specific requirements and expectations. Nothing wrong with that but they seem a little unrealistic for this light. I see the MiNi as a general purpose light whose uses apply to a _general_ audience. If you were looking for a single speed high output light this clearly wasn't the design intent of the MiNis. At the price point it is a lot of bang for the buck. I'm guessing perfection will cost a bit more than $39. For the price of your Sundrop you could buy a lot of MiNis. There are a few annoyances with the light, mainly the thread thing on the 123, (not a problem) on the AA, but there's a lot to like particularly when cost is considered. Threads on the Ti 123 are better in the slop regard.



da.gee, I'm not comparing the Q-mini with a Sundrop (a super expensive, semi-custom light) but rather with the Fenix P1CE that I have had for a while, another low cost 1x123 reflector light that was sold into exactly the same space. I think the Fenix was about $5 more expensive than the Q-mini but that it is better made, and I'm happy to pay an extra $5 for the better build. Also, omitting the Q-mini's fancy packaging and lanyard would save a buck or so of that $5 (the Fenix didn't come with those). The UI issue is just a matter of firmware programming and listening to experience rather than polls, and doing it differently wouldn't have added anything to the light's cost. The recent 3.6v li-ion debacle is another example of where I see the Q-mini going wrong. This is a light with a 3.3 volt (or so) led and no buck-boost converter, so it looks to me like someone dropped a 3.6v cell in it, saw that the light didn't fry, and then claimed the light was ok with such cells. That is not a proper engineering approach. Later they had to withdraw the claim once the lights started overheating in the field. The advice from some smart-alecks to hold the light in your hand and monitor the temperature is again shifting responsibility to the wrong place. The light is designed with a flat end so you can tail-stand it and run it WITHOUT holding it in your hand, except that using that feature with a 3.6v cell can apparently destroy the light. Well-designed lights should not depend on specific user behavior to not self-destruct. The right way to use 3.6v cells with a 3.3v led is by engineering the light properly for higher voltage cells in the first place, with a 2-way converter, even if that increased the cost a little bit. Alternatively, with a boost-only converter, do what Fenix and others did and say that the higher voltage cells are not supported--which is what 4x7 has wound up doing anyway.



Dude Dudeson said:


> I'd gladly do both!
> 
> That is, I'd gladly pay more for a more hardy version of this light, but I also like the current version as is mainly for the price.
> 
> I regard my mini 123 as being SOMEwhat "disposable". For the money, if it breaks within a year I'm not going to feel too bad. If I lose it I'm not going to feel too bad. If it breaks because I drop it off a roof I'm not going to feel too bad.



Dude Dudeson, again, I'm not talking about paying 3x as much or 10x as much, I mean $5 more or so (or even $10-15 more, but not $50 more). That difference is just not going make much change in most users' financial situation even if they lose the light.

I'm not trying to trash the light (it's a good value, and my "rating" for it is about 3.5/5, not bad at all, and I'm happy about 4x7's entry into making lights) but it definitely has shortcomings and I hope that future 4x7 offerings can learn from them.

Edit: on closer examination, it looks like the anode contact is an actual raised button (0.3mm or so), not just a PC trace, so that fixes one of my complaints. I'm still not crazy about the tail spring.


----------



## da.gee (Jan 10, 2010)

Understood paulr. I also wish I didn't have to worry about the overheating aspect and already whined about the backtracking on Li-ion support so I'm with you there. Seems like thermal considerations would be (are) a big challenge in small packages like the MiNi. Either we'll have to quit expecting pocket rockets or you engineers will have to come up with some better thermal management techniques/materials.


----------



## applevision (Jan 10, 2010)

I just want to chime in on the whole overheating issue. I certainly hear what folks are saying and I understand where they are coming from.

However, I'd like to place my vote firmly in the camp of more lumens is _worth_ having to use some caution in some situations.

To wit, the fact that this light can blast out lumens with an RCR123 but at the risk of damage if let to get to hot is actually a GREAT thing, IMHO. I am also pushing for the rumored 2000 lumen 4sevens light to have a "turbo" or "burst" mode that can do this, but I certainly do not expect to be able to let it tail stand and light the room for 45 minutes... Now perhaps this legendary light will have thermal protection (which would be awesome) and perhaps in theory the MiNis should also have this if they want to claim compatibility with the rechargeable cells, but my point is this: at the bleeding edge of technology (which is where I want to be) there are trade-offs we must accept. To get this much light in this price point and size is pretty astounding, and having the ability to push it to the limit is both exciting and welcomed by me. I think that for the masses one has to say that this is not RCR compatible, but then again, the "masses" do not use RCRs in general.

Not to rant, but you just hate to see a light maker get chastised for doing something that at least some of us feel is a good thing. 
lovecpf


----------



## LG&M (Jan 10, 2010)

paulr said:


> I'm also not too impressed with the construction. The spring in the battery tube is thin and maybe susceptable to snapping off easily (I've seen this happen in some other gadgets), causing complete failure of the light. The anode contact is just a spot on the PC board. The aluminum is quite thin and there is slop in the threads. The light heats up rather quickly in high mode. The multiple diameters may save a few cubic mm in volume but they look a little cheesy. Overall this light feels like an economy, "deal extreme" type of light rather than a Fenix-level (i.e. semi-premium) light like I was hoping for. I do agree that the price is quite low and the light is good value for the money, but I'd rather pay more and get something of higher quality, if it was available.
> 
> .


OK I was about to order the AA but this has me a little worried. I EDC a nightcore D10 and am very happy with it can I hear from people who have both. Is the build / quality close to the same. I know the D10 is a completely different light but I am thinking overall build and quality. Or how does it compare with the others in the Quark Or Fenix line.


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Jan 11, 2010)

LG&M said:


> OK I was about to order the AA but this has me a little worried. I EDC a nightcore D10 and am very happy with it can I hear from people who have both. Is the build / quality close to the same. I know the D10 is a completely different light but I am thinking overall build and quality. Or how does it compare with the others in the Quark Or Fenix line.



I'll say this: I think the Quark Mini's would hold up to NORMAL use/abuse just as well as anything else.

Things like a drop to the pavement, dunk in a puddle, etc.

Start talking IED's in Iraq, being run over by a semi-truck, well then you'd better go higher end...


----------



## da.gee (Jan 11, 2010)

applevision said:


> I just want to chime in on the whole overheating issue. I certainly hear what folks are saying and I understand where they are coming from.
> 
> However, I'd like to place my vote firmly in the camp of more lumens is _worth_ having to use some caution in some situations.



Yes definitely. I did not mean to give that impression. I am more than happy with my four MiNis and the mere fact they don't explode on RCRs. The tradeoff is well worth it when you turn it to high. Of course I'd favor not having to think about it 'cuz that's just easier but in no way should people be scared off. With a modicum of common sense., which is just what I have, the MiNi will live a long and bright life.


----------



## kaichu dento (Jan 11, 2010)

LG&M said:


> OK I was about to order the AA but this has me a little worried. I EDC a nightcore D10 and am very happy with it can I hear from people who have both. Is the build / quality close to the same. I know the D10 is a completely different light but I am thinking overall build and quality. Or how does it compare with the others in the Quark Or Fenix line.


Go ahead and get one; I think you'll be happy with the build, UI and ergonomics. I have had one in my hand most of the time lately and as one who is not all that thrilled about the rest of the Quarks, I like the MiNi's a lot!
As for the comparison with the D10, I will say I've had several, will always have a soft spot for them, and I think the MiNi series, EZ series and the D10/EX10 seem to be very alike build/quality wise.


----------



## defloyd77 (Jan 11, 2010)

applevision said:


> I think that for the masses one has to say that this is not RCR compatible, but then again, the "masses" do not use RCRs in general.



If one feels they should not need to have to monitor the heat in a light, such a person shouldn't be using RCR's and 14500's in the first place, there is far greater a risk of not paying attention to the voltage of the cell and possible failure of the cell's protection circuitry resulting in KAPOWIE!!! than the LED just being overheated and the light no longer working.

Here's a bit of food for thought for those who are aware of these risks and want a MiNi to run on LiIons, the regular AA would be the best choice, it's really a bit trivial, but it has slightly more mass than the 123 version. The worst would be the neutral Ti 123.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Jan 11, 2010)

da.gee said:


> Yes definitely. I did not mean to give that impression. I am more than happy with my four MiNis and the mere fact they don't explode on RCRs. The tradeoff is well worth it when you turn it to high. Of course I'd favor not having to think about it 'cuz that's just easier but in no way should people be scared off. With a modicum of common sense., which is just what I have, the MiNi will live a long and bright life.


 

+1:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


lovecpf


----------



## Simon520 (Jan 11, 2010)

LG&M said:


> OK I was about to order the AA but this has me a little worried. I EDC a nightcore D10 and am very happy with it can I hear from people who have both. Is the build / quality close to the same. I know the D10 is a completely different light but I am thinking overall build and quality. Or how does it compare with the others in the Quark Or Fenix line.



Speaking from experience, since I also EDC a D10...

The Mini makes a great backup. I love my D10 because of the piston and the UI. I grab it, thumb the piston and voila! Instant lumens at whatever setting I've left it (usually full rip). That fast action is why I will always carry my D10.

The mini takes some time to get into action; the twisty is better done with 2 hands and then you have to twist it a few times to get to high. I have little use for low settings on a day to day basis, so it rarely gets used.

I carry my D10 as my EDC and keep the Mini (either AA or 123, depending on my mood) as a backup. I take the mini out and fiddle with it during the day; the twisty is somewhat relaxing as I ruminate about the goings-on in cyberland.

I'm extremely happy with the Mini. I couldn't EDC it as my solo light because it takes a while to get into action with a full power beam, but it makes IMHO the perfect backup or 2nd light. 

I like it so much I ordered a Ti 123. So, I have a Ti AA, aluminum 123 and a Ti 123. Oh, and a Titanium Preon II for the lab jacket.
:twothumbs


----------



## psychbeat (Jan 11, 2010)

lovecpf just ordered a mini 123 and also some RCRs 
just for kicks n short bursts since Ill mostly use it on low n med
I understand that the RCR isnt supported on high but am hoping it wont ruin the light if I use if occasionally for 5 min or less..
I mainly use headlamps but figured this would
be a perfect hand held to start my collection..
Im saving for a surefire host n nailbender drop in.
this is gonna have to tide me over till I save some $crilla
here here for CHEAP THRILLZ!!!
eating potatoes for a week to offset the cost of the light n batts.
$2.99 for 10lb bag.
cheers!


----------



## LG&M (Jan 11, 2010)

I dropped a on a AA mini today. Thanks for the reassurance all. I am sure I will be happy with it, now if only it had a pocket clip.


----------



## pobox1475 (Jan 11, 2010)

> now if only it had a pocket clip.


 Suspend it;

http://www.jsburlysflashlights.com/...p&cat=keychainitems&catstr=HOME:keychainitems


----------



## Light11 (Jan 12, 2010)

That suspension clip might be the way to go.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Jan 15, 2010)

Man, this thread had really gotten buried. Anyway, I've rigged another a couple more ways to suspend the old Quark. It was time to tart it up a bit. Hated to cover up the tail art, but utility and happening to have just the right size magnet won out. Decided to spare a foot of paracord for a longer handle.

Let's see some of your modifications.







Geoff


----------



## Purpleorchid (Jan 15, 2010)

I put a 1/2" Glo-Ring (from Sigman) between the head and body of both my MiNis. 

For the Al MiNi, I made a monkey fist using reflective cord (the loop by the flashlight is GITD embroidery thread knotted around the reflective cord). 

The Ti has the same reflective cord tied with a diamond knot and then figure-eight knotted to the center bar of a Nite-Ize S-biner (size #1).

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/2592/p1020211y.jpg


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Jan 15, 2010)

Simon520 said:


> Speaking from experience, since I also EDC a D10...
> 
> The Mini makes a great backup. I love my D10 because of the piston and the UI. I grab it, thumb the piston and voila! Instant lumens at whatever setting I've left it (usually full rip). That fast action is why I will always carry my D10.
> 
> ...


 
I'm doing the opposite - my Mini 123 has become the EDC, and my 6P/M60 is the backup. Of course if I'm walking down the street (or trail) at night the "big" light is in an easily accessible pocket, often with my hand quite nearby, but the Mini is the main utility light. And if necessary their roles could be reversed at any time too.


----------



## recDNA (Jan 15, 2010)

I wish that using an RCR battery would direct drive the mini at high only. I hate having to go on-off, on-off, on just to get to high...and half the time it skips a mode and I go beyond it back to low....and then I have to be careful or I end up with STROBE!

Too many modes!

Give me a one or two mode mini PLEASE


----------



## Woods Walker (Jan 15, 2010)

I broke down and ordered a mini AA warm tint. First 4/7 light. Not sure what to expect but for 35 bucks shipped not like I have the house on the line and if there are any issues 4/7s has good CS. A twisty and warm tint was very hard to pass up. Tried to read thought this thread but at 20+ pages, it was kinda hard to keep track of everything. So have a few questions. I prefer more throw to flood sometimes so thinking the Q3 would be a bit better than the XP-G cooler tint. Is this right? Also fear and hate angry blue or squid **** green so this was another factor for the warm. Don't care for the lottery thing. I pack a few headlamps and backup single battery light when camping so it doesn't have to be bomb proof just able to take normal EDC drops etc. I am looking to turn the mini into a hanging warm tinted lantern for the shelter, another reason for the warm tint so does anyone know of a make shift stick type diffuser for the mini? I use a crazy glue cover for the E01 but know that will not fit. I know the warm tint Q3 has a bit less output but didn't see the numbers reflected on 4/7s site rather the same as the cooler tint. I would gladly take a lower output for a warmer tint but just wondering the true numbers. Does the min AA take lithium primaries? Think so but just wanted to ask.

Thanks for any help.


----------



## Tixx (Jan 15, 2010)

Woods Walker said:


> I broke down and ordered a mini AA warm tint. First 4/7 light. Not sure what to expect but for 35 bucks shipped not like I have the house on the line and if there are any issues 4/7s has good CS. A twisty and warm tint was very hard to pass up. Tried to read thought this thread but at 20+ pages, it was kinda hard to keep track of everything. So have a few questions. I prefer more throw to flood sometimes so thinking the Q3 would be a bit better than the XP-G cooler tint. Is this right? Also fear and hate angry blue or squid **** green so this was another factor for the warm. Don't care for the lottery thing. I pack a few headlamps and backup single battery light when camping so it doesn't have to be bomb proof just able to take normal EDC drops etc. I am looking to turn the mini into a hanging warm tinted lantern for the shelter, another reason for the warm tint so does anyone know of a make shift stick type diffuser for the mini? I use a crazy glue cover for the E01 but know that will not fit. I know the warm tint Q3 has a bit less output but didn't see the numbers reflected on 4/7s site rather the same as the cooler tint. I would gladly take a lower output for a warmer tint but just wondering the true numbers. Does the min AA take lithium primaries? Think so but just wanted to ask.
> 
> Thanks for any help.




I have both warm and cool. Definitely sounds like the warm is going to work for you. I believe the Q3 has 60% of the output of the R5 from reading the entire MiNi thread myself. And the Q3 has a more concentrated hot spot so a little better throw than the R5.

Heard Write Right PDA screen protectors work as diffusers. Have not tried myself, they are made by the company Fellowes.


----------



## Woods Walker (Jan 16, 2010)

Tixx said:


> I have both warm and cool. Definitely sounds like the warm is going to work for you. I believe the Q3 has 60% of the output of the R5 from reading the entire MiNi thread myself. And the Q3 has a more concentrated hot spot so a little better throw than the R5.
> 
> Heard Write Right PDA screen protectors work as diffusers. Have not tried myself, they are made by the company Fellowes.


 
Thanks. I think those are more of a film type cover and would still blind me if looking up in the shelter. I was more thinking some something like this:

https://www.fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_38&products_id=339

Going to work out somekinda homemade job like was done with the E01.


----------



## MarkW (Jan 16, 2010)

I got the Mini AA neutral for a camping/ backpacking light and am quite happy with it. Have used mostly eneloops, but after trying a 3v lithium, ordered some lithium-ion 14500 rechargeables--the high voltage adds a LOT of brightness to medium and high; low is about the same. 

I find high-voltage medium makes a really nice trail light, though medium on regular voltage is also adequate. High would be comforting in bear country, and is fun to play with. Low is fine for close tasks, but needs a diffuser for reading. I think a lower low would be useful, but would make the UI more complicated--3 levels is about as many as I want to deal with. On a trip where runtime matters, I would definitely go with lithium primaries. Overall, with almost any battery, a great light to throw in a pocket or a pack and forget about until you need it, and at $35, a bargain.


----------



## jsholli (Jan 16, 2010)

Woods Walker said:


> Thanks. I think those are more of a film type cover and would still blind me if looking up in the shelter. I was more thinking some something like this:
> 
> https://www.fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_38&products_id=339
> 
> Going to work out somekinda homemade job like was done with the E01.


 
The diameter of my P1D measures 22mm and the mini is about 20.5...a dedicated fenix diffuser tip with a few drops of glue on the inside should stay on pretty good. [wait for the glue to dry...its just for a spacer, not to actually adhere anything]. If you wanted to go the multi-use route, you could cut a few strips of tape to put on the inside of the diffuser to reduce its diameter as needed. Even a spare O-ring may work if its small enough to fit between the mini and the tip---The mini is just so close to the other 1 cell lights' dimensions that I know the diffuser could work without too much effort.

I don't know how brittle the plastic is that composes the diffuser, but one may even be able to just bend the opening some to make it oval-shaped. This would also offer the required tension to keep the tip on but with no mods at all.


----------



## se4g4e (Jan 16, 2010)

MarkW said:


> I got the Mini AA neutral for a camping/ backpacking light and am quite happy with it. Have used mostly eneloops, but after trying a 3v lithium, ordered some lithium-ion *14500 rechargeables--the high voltage adds a LOT of brightness to medium and high*; low is about the same.
> ...


Just as a note, the Mini AA manual states the operating voltage is 0.9 - 1.5 V. There have been a few reports of 14500's damaging Mini's.


----------



## Dan FO (Jan 16, 2010)

I think I am going to fill my gas tanks with diesel and see how it works. I mean fuel is fuel isn't it?


----------



## bondr006 (Jan 16, 2010)

Guess I don't get the analogy. Gas engines and diesel engines are not compatable at all....But the mini's will work with lithium rechargeables with no problem. They even keep all 3 levels. I use AW rcr123's in my mini just like a lot of other people with no ill effects. I use mostly low and medium to which is fine with a rcr123. It is also alright to use high....just not for extended periods. So, if you use discretion....rcr123's and 14500's won't be a problem.....



Dan FO said:


> I think I am going to fill my gas tanks with diesel and see how it works. I mean fuel is fuel isn't it?


----------



## pobox1475 (Jan 16, 2010)

> the Mini AA manual states the operating voltage is 0.9 - 1.5 V.


 I have been under the impression that the AA and 123 share the same emitter and internal components. Wish we could know for sure.


----------



## bondr006 (Jan 16, 2010)

They do share the same emitter and circuitry....4Sevens has stated this. They have just changed their position that it's ok to use rechargeable lithiums. They did not say they will not work, but the light will not be covered under warranty if something does happen. Just use discretion and don't use high for extended periods of time....

4Sevens satement on the subject....

And here....

And here....



pobox1475 said:


> I have been under the impression that the AA and 123 share the same emitter and internal components. Wish we could know for sure.


----------



## MarkW (Jan 16, 2010)

Dan FO said:


> I think I am going to fill my gas tanks with diesel and see how it works. I mean fuel is fuel isn't it?



Yes, it is. FourSevens says the problem with lithium-ion 14500 voltage is the potential for heat build-up, not inadequate circuitry. At my end of the woods, it's about 15 degrees outside (up from -5), and heat build-up seems like a very pleasant fantasy. I am hoping when the 14500s arrive, the Mini will serve as a backup handwarmer.

Of course, I am the kind of bozo who actually does put diesel in my gas tank. In small quantities, it helps lube the valves. (Don't tell the EPA).


----------



## psychbeat (Jan 16, 2010)

yeah I used my mini123 last night with an RCR and it got warm on 
high but I only used it in that mode for a few min then switched to 
med.
I used the lanyard to secure it to the handle bars on my bike while I was riding- THESE LIGHTS ARE AWESOME!!!
now Im going to have to get a maelstrom instead of the other
lights I was planning... unless theyre crazy expensive.
mini 123 + maelstrom sst90 will be perfect bookends for
my beginning collection?


----------



## Woods Walker (Jan 17, 2010)

jsholli said:


> The diameter of my P1D measures 22mm and the mini is about 20.5...a dedicated fenix diffuser tip with a few drops of glue on the inside should stay on pretty good. [wait for the glue to dry...its just for a spacer, not to actually adhere anything]. If you wanted to go the multi-use route, you could cut a few strips of tape to put on the inside of the diffuser to reduce its diameter as needed. Even a spare O-ring may work if its small enough to fit between the mini and the tip---The mini is just so close to the other 1 cell lights' dimensions that I know the diffuser could work without too much effort.
> 
> I don't know how brittle the plastic is that composes the diffuser, but one may even be able to just bend the opening some to make it oval-shaped. This would also offer the required tension to keep the tip on but with no mods at all.


 
Thanks, I will work out something. Right now use a jak strap, E01 and crazy glue cover for a backup headlamp, area camp/marker light and backup flashlight when using AAA so going to see how the mini fits on the Nitecore headband when packing AA. Maybe it will be a bit loose like the iTP A2 1XAA which was given away as a X-mass gift but that was workable so who knows. Would have gotten another A2 but with the warm tint and all couldn't pass this up. The XP-G sure sounded nice too and don't own that LED yet however fear and hate green tint and it seems the lottery is still alive, no fault of 4/7s however given there is no tint specified plus like warm tinted light. Has anyone heard any indicator hum or whatever people call this? If so would forgo the headband idea and stick to the hanging lantern app.


----------



## defloyd77 (Jan 17, 2010)

Woods Walker said:


> Has anyone heard any indicator hum or whatever people call this? If so would forgo the headband idea and stick to the hanging lantern app.



I hear a slight hum on medium, but it's nowhere near as loud as my L2T's.


----------



## Woods Walker (Jan 17, 2010)

defloyd77 said:


> I hear a slight hum on medium, but it's nowhere near as loud as my L2T's.


 
That doesn't seem too bad. I have a few lights that do this and the TK20 on high is the loudest going but it's in my hands not near the head. Now if a company made a headlamp that was as load this would be a no go. Think I used the E01 as a headlamp just a few times and the mini isn't sold for this app so wouldn't hold that against it rather looking for info on what to expect. Heck it's Saterday night and hangin out on CFP. :laughing:


----------



## bondr006 (Jan 17, 2010)

Here's a new picture of my 123. I was wearing it around my neck with the supplied lanyard, but decided to do something different. The fob is from my NDI, and this all hangs off my belt loop on a small black carabiner with a Fenix lobster claw. This setup works very well for me.


----------



## JeffN (Jan 17, 2010)

se4g4e said:


> Just as a note, the Mini AA manual states the operating voltage is 0.9 - 1.5 V. There have been a few reports of 14500's damaging Mini's.



Somehow, I've missed all of these reports. Other than 4Seven's warning that use of a 14500 _may_ cause damage, I'm unaware of such damage actually being done. Could you please provide links to at least _some_ of these reports.

Note that I'm not disputing 4Sevens' warning.


----------



## bondr006 (Jan 17, 2010)

+1 on that. I would like to see those reports also...


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Jan 17, 2010)




----------



## jonnyfgroove (Jan 17, 2010)

MrGman's actual lumens readings for the MiNi AA:


Quark AA mini_High___________68__turn-on_____________1AA Tenergy NiMH___________________________,
Quark AA mini_High___________65__60 sec_____________1AA Tenergy NiMH___________________________,
Quark AA mini_High___________64__120 sec____________1AA Tenergy NiMH__________________________

Does that seem low, or am I not understanding something here? I thought the MiNi AA was 90 OTF lumens.


----------



## Stress_Test (Jan 17, 2010)

Ditto. ~60 Lumen out the front for the AA Mini on high just doesn't seem right. Especially since I compared it to my Fenix L1D Q5 on turbo, and the two lights were about the same brightness (but the Mini ran longer).

Maybe Mr.Gman got a dud Mini?


----------



## Morelite (Jan 17, 2010)

Stress_Test said:


> Ditto. ~60 Lumen out the front for the AA Mini on high just doesn't seem right. Especially since I compared it to my Fenix L1D Q5 on turbo, and the two lights were about the same brightness (but the Mini ran longer).
> 
> Maybe Mr.Gman got a dud Mini?


 
Was that the neutral tint XP-E or the cool white XP-G?


----------



## jonnyfgroove (Jan 17, 2010)

Morelite said:


> Was that the neutral tint XP-E or the cool white XP-G?



Hmm, that would make sense. The numbers for the Preon 1 and 2 seem low also though...:shrug:

Stress_Test, I agree. The 90 OTF figure seems reasonable when I compare my mini (XP-G) to some of my other lights.


----------



## 4sevens (Jan 17, 2010)

jonnyfgroove said:


> MrGman's actual lumens readings for the MiNi AA:
> 
> 
> Quark AA mini_High___________68__turn-on_____________1AA Tenergy NiMH___________________________,
> ...


Two things, 1) we don't know if it's a NW or CW 2) he used a nimh battery. The starting V is 1.25v at best under load so it will have a lower output. The driver is a voltage boost circuit - so the current to the LED is directly proportional to V(in). I was also told some of the runs (specifically 4sevnes) used nimh with unknown charge state! ?!?!?!?


----------



## csshih (Jan 17, 2010)

4sevens said:


> Two things, 1) we don't know if it's a NW or CW 2) he used a nimh battery. The starting V is 1.25v at best under load so it will have a lower output. The driver is a voltage boost circuit - so the current to the LED is directly proportional to V(in). I was also told some of the runs (specifically 4sevens) used nimh with unknown charge state! ?!?!?!?



ok, time to clear up some stuff.. *It's all my fault.*
I neglected to tell MrGman what cells to run in the lights when testing.. and I left the original batteries in the lights (ones that were rather used)

thus, the alkaline readings were skewed.

MrGman did not have any fresh alkalines or a primary CR123A the next time around.. he could only use the Ni-Mh, which skewed the readings because of a lower voltage. 

I am sorry for this trouble! 

Don't worry about the minis and preons, I am sure they'll deliver the correct OTF lumens with fresh correct batteries!


----------



## LG&M (Jan 17, 2010)

Were they cool white or neutral?


----------



## jonnyfgroove (Jan 17, 2010)

Cool, thanks for the info guys - makes perfect sense. :thumbsup:


----------



## Monocrom (Jan 18, 2010)

A bit late to the party, but I've got a Ti Quark Mini CR123 model that should arrive in just a handful of days.


----------



## windstrings (Jan 18, 2010)

Dang.. I didnt know those were out!.. they look sweet!... 
I already have the PD-10.. but I would like the variable modes available with RCR 123s and being shorter too!

At least Im assuming all the circuitry is the same as the non-Ti.

Is the circuitry exactly the same as the original?...
The thing I don't like about my PD-10 is I lose all my modes when using RCRs but with my regular mini I don't.

I hope the titanium is the same.. can anyone confirm it has all modes with rechargables?


----------



## bondr006 (Jan 18, 2010)

@ windstrings.... Calm down, take a few deep breaths, do some meditation, and bring your pulse back to normal. And yes, they are exactly the same...just prettier. I feel the same. I have the regular mini123, but want that TI soooo bad.


----------



## windstrings (Jan 18, 2010)

Thats ok.. its all good! :twothumbs

Well I solved the problem... just called up 4Sevens and they confirmed they are the same "sorry didnt see your post first".

Although it was clear they are a bit paranoid about encouraging RCR use as these lights are so small there is not much heat sink, they do work with all modes.

Funny... IMO, the Mini 123 circuitry is more better "?" than the PD-10ti.... at least if you want to use RCRs!

I assured her I wouldnt be running it long on high and the beauty is that if I feel its getting warm, I can just drop down a mode.... something I cant do with the PD-10.

Not slamming the PD-10... just a bit peeved that I spent that much money assuming it would be as good if not more functional than the lesser expensive Mini.... guess I was wrong and I guess my son gets a really cool light "the PD-10 ti" as I wont be using it once I get my Mini ti.


----------



## eljuez (Jan 18, 2010)

windstrings: I guess it depends on your needs. I have both the ti-mini 123 and the pd-10 ti. Having spent some time using both, I much prefer the pd-10. With the mini you have to deal with the skipping mode problem or going into the hidden programs by accident, especially using it one handed. In my case I apparently lost the tint lottery, as mine has a obvious green tint. Plus, the light doesn't feel that robust. On the plus side it is bright. The pd-10 seems to be more robust, is very smooth and easy to operate with one hand, is just as bright and has a nice white tint. It is slightly larger. I might keep both, but if I don't, it's the mini that will go. I only use primary cells. JMO


----------



## jsholli (Jan 18, 2010)

MarkW said:


> Yes, it is. FourSevens says the problem with lithium-ion 14500 voltage is the potential for heat build-up, not inadequate circuitry. At my end of the woods, it's about 15 degrees outside (up from -5), and heat build-up seems like a very pleasant fantasy. I am hoping when the 14500s arrive, the Mini will serve as a backup handwarmer.
> 
> Of course, I am the kind of bozo who actually does put diesel in my gas tank. In small quantities, it helps lube the valves. (Don't tell the EPA).


 
I wouldn't hold my breath for the hand warmer perk...I spent the morning in a freezer warehouse with my mini on high periodically and couldn't tell that it was anything but cold [I purposefully held it to my lips after long periods of use to check. And, before you ask why---my face was the only exposed part; I don't make a habit of kissing my lights]. I'm ordering a Ti version to take advantage of the excellent heat removal at low temps  BTW, my collegues were quite impressed that my mini kept up with my Fenix T1s that we were also using. I was also quite impressed as I forgot my DX special $35 p7 and had to rely soley on my mini...it performed impressively throughout the day. I can't wait for my Ti version to arrive!


----------



## windstrings (Jan 18, 2010)

Does the temp make a difference between AL verses TI?

I had my PD-10 when it was in the 20s and it wouldn't even get warm.... but I'm sure it would still help a freezing numb hand while fishing!


----------



## jsholli (Jan 18, 2010)

windstrings said:


> Does the temp make a difference between AL verses TI?


 
I'm not sure how the Ti will do, but I know the Al version gets warm within about 20 seconds at room temp on high, but was not ever noticeably warm in a zero degree envoronment. If the light is already cold, the LED has more room to work---as in stress tests where guys freeze the lights for max performance. However, since my lights stay cold, I seem to experience shorter battery runtimes...


----------



## csshih (Jan 18, 2010)

LG&M said:


> Were they cool white or neutral?


whoop. forgot to answer that. Cool White.


----------



## Monocrom (Jan 18, 2010)

windstrings said:


> Does the temp make a difference between AL verses TI?


 
From a pragmatic viewpoint, Aluminum is better than Ti. Costs less, and generally offers better heat-dissipation. Ti flashlights are basically Bling. (Nothing wrong with that.)


----------



## joshconsulting (Jan 18, 2010)

Would someone with a DMM, Quark 123, and AW RCR123As please measure tailcap current on high with a freshly charged battery for me? I'd like to make guesses at runtime and output


----------



## Burgess (Jan 19, 2010)

Gee, aren't there any *Run-time graphs* yet ? ? ?

:candle:


BTW, Happy 35th Birthday to Monocrom.


_


----------



## Monocrom (Jan 19, 2010)

Burgess said:


> BTW, Happy 35th Birthday to Monocrom.
> 
> 
> _


 


Thank you. Your comment is truly appreciated.


----------



## Sector7 (Jan 19, 2010)

Happy B-day Monocrom... :wave:


----------



## Monocrom (Jan 19, 2010)

Thanks. 

Now let's get back to admiring those sweet Quarks.


----------



## pobox1475 (Jan 19, 2010)

> Ti flashlights are basically Bling.


 Also _much_ stronger and durable.


----------



## windstrings (Jan 19, 2010)

Monocrom said:


> From a pragmatic viewpoint, Aluminum is better than Ti. Costs less, and generally offers better heat-dissipation. Ti flashlights are basically Bling. (Nothing wrong with that.)



Oh yea.. I'm into Bling!...

Mine still looks exactly like the day I pulled it out of the box.. not a scratch on it!... , nor tarnish and no noticeable fingerprints...and its been playing with my keys everyday.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Jan 19, 2010)

My Mini 123 on turbo is a perfect handwarmer at -30F.

No heat issues either I may add.


----------



## bullfrog (Jan 19, 2010)

Received my Mini CR123 in neutral today - this is the first Quark I have owned. Overall pleased for the $36 I paid - would not have paid much more though.

Here are my initial impressions:

A+ on the emitter and internals: Tint is GORGEOUS, beam is very nice and the output levels are perfect as well.

C+ on the external portion: TON of play in the threads - they seem thin, gritty and cheap. The threads have so much play that when the light is off, I can push the head to the side and the light will turn on (momentary on - awesome!!! ) - its also frustrating trying to turn the light on w one hand as if the head is pressed against the side, that makes it jump a level... Really wish the threads were thicker.

HATE the small size of the lanyard hole - its tiny!!! I cant even fit a small surefire split ring in there or any type of cordage. Looks like the included splitring was specially made to fit the tiny opening... O ring seems a bit cheap too - would like it to be beefier.

I guess I am spoiled by my Maratac AA and AAA - the fit and finish on them are in another league in my opinion and they are cheaper and come in two colors.

Like I said, I think it was worth absolutely worth the $35.88 I paid (which included the cpf discount and shipping), but not sure if I would have paid too much more... Perfect example of getting what one pays for. I guess I was expecting more since reading all the praises, but just not feeling it...

Was going to pick up a Quark AA, but will be sticking with my Maratac AA - seems like a much better made light....

To end on a positive note - again, I really REALLY love the tint, level spacing and output :twothumbs


.


----------



## applevision (Jan 19, 2010)

bullfrog said:


> Received my Mini CR123 in neutral today - this is the first Quark I have owned. Overall pleased for the $36 I paid - would not have paid much more though...
> 
> To end on a positive note - again, I really REALLY love the tint, level spacing and output :twothumbs




Hey *bullfrog*, thanks for sharing your thoughts. I agree with everything you've said and I realize that the main problem is that (for me at least) the neutral falls a little short and ends up feeling a bit more like a "get-whacha-payfor" light... I whole-heartedly recommend that you get a regular MiNi and check it out. The XP-G is a powerhouse with a gorgeous, unique and useful beam... it honestly changes the whole dynamic of this light! If I had received the neutral first, I would have been feeling just as you are now... Seriously, check out the "cool" white option and prepare to drink the Kool-aid!


----------



## bullfrog (Jan 20, 2010)

applevision said:


> Hey *bullfrog*, thanks for sharing your thoughts. I agree with everything you've said and I realize that the main problem is that (for me at least) the neutral falls a little short and ends up feeling a bit more like a "get-whacha-payfor" light... I whole-heartedly recommend that you get a regular MiNi and check it out. The XP-G is a powerhouse with a gorgeous, unique and useful beam... it honestly changes the whole dynamic of this light! If I had received the neutral first, I would have been feeling just as you are now... Seriously, check out the "cool" white option and prepare to drink the Kool-aid!



Thanks for the info and nudge - I was thinking about ordering the Mini CR123 in XPG and this confirms it for me. I will place my order tonight.

How do you think the AA XPG compares? Worth it? I am pretty happy right now with my Maratac AA, but the lack of small and powerful AA lights out there is driving me to buy all and any that are released....


----------



## kaichu dento (Jan 20, 2010)

bullfrog said:


> Thanks for the info and nudge - I was thinking about ordering the Mini CR123 in XPG and this confirms it for me. I will place my order tonight.
> 
> How do you think the AA XPG compares? Worth it? I am pretty happy right now with my Maratac AA, but the lack of small and powerful AA lights out there is driving me to buy all and any that are released....


For what it's worth, I'm really happy with my MiNi AA's，both the neutral and the xp-g but would hesitate to try selling you on one. If you get the 123 version ordered tonight then you might as well wait and see what you think of that tint before deciding on the AA. I will say though that my MiNi AA's have very good threads and the apparent output of the xp-g seems to be a fair bit higher due to not only the larger hotspot, but also the flood being noticeably lighter too.


----------



## applevision (Jan 20, 2010)

Nice!

I have to confess that as a luxwhore/lumenophile, I did not consider the AA model of these little buddies... The size/power ratio of the 123 is where it's at for me!

For that form-factor, I do love my IlluminaTi and my Maratac AAA which of course are a wee bit smaller given the AAA vs. AA but probably not that far behind on output, all things considered (maybe 70 lumens vs. 90ish? Probably difficult to tell with the naked eye)... compared to 189 out of the MiNi 123 cool!!

Please let us know how you like the cool version!
:wave:


----------



## windstrings (Jan 20, 2010)

Lightcrazycanuck said:


> My Mini 123 on turbo is a perfect handwarmer at -30F.
> 
> No heat issues either I may add.




Dang, maybe I should have ordered two!


----------



## compasillo (Jan 20, 2010)

applevision said:


> Nice!
> 
> I have to confess that as a luxwhore/lumenophile, I did not consider the AA model of these little buddies... The size/power ratio of the 123 is where it's at for me!
> 
> ...



I got my first mini 123 today and I have to say I like it very much. 
It's really a beauty (I don't know why I didn't buy it time ago)

But I also have the mini AA (and the Maratac AAA). If you use a 14500 in the
QmAA it can give more than the 189 lm (as the Maratac can reach 130 with a 10440) 
and has a wider and whiter beam comparing to the mini 123. 
Also the low mode is lower. 

Conclusion: I love them all


----------



## reflecyion (Jan 20, 2010)

> I also have the mini AA (and the Maratac AAA). If you use a 14500 in the
> QmAA it can give more than the 189 lm (as the Maratac can reach 130 with a 10440)
> and has a wider and whiter beam comparing to the mini 123.
> Also the low mode is lower.


glad i went for the AA version then!
cant wait for it to arrive(aswell as the 14500's and charger from DX that i ordered 3 weeks ago lol)


----------



## Pummy (Jan 20, 2010)

I am typing this on an iPhone so please forgive me if this has been covered already.

The low on a Qmini AA is lower than that of a Qmini 123 when used with the same battery chemistry? In this case Li ion is what I am referring to.

And when Li ion is used in the AA the high is higher and the low is lower?

I cannot reconcile how the low would be lower. Would you care to explain as I understood the driver in the AA to be a pwm voltage regulated type. This being the case I would expect all three values to increase by the same amount, if you get my drift.


----------



## Morelite (Jan 20, 2010)

Pummy said:


> And when Li ion is used in the AA the high is higher and the low is lower?
> 
> I cannot reconcile how the low would be lower. Would you care to explain as I understood the driver in the AA to be a pwm voltage regulated type. This being the case I would expect all three values to increase by the same amount, if you get my drift.


 
The low is brighter with Li-ion.


----------



## Launch Mini (Jan 20, 2010)

Got my first MiNi123 last night, thanks to Gunga.
Made the trade cash for a little white box, in a parking lot:shrug:

Got the neutral white version. Very impressed with this little guy.

Technically , it's my second, but I gave the first one away to my nephew for Christmas.


----------



## sol-leks (Jan 20, 2010)

I feel like this was already answered but I can't remember now, the cool white is floodier than the neutral white due to the XPG right? How do the transition from hotspot to spill compare on these two lights?

I was also thinking about it, and alot of people complain about the give in the threads and while it might be better if this was not the case, to be fair with 150 hours on low, you are in very little danger of sapping draining your battery in any significant sense. Of course some people have found the threads gritty too, although the threads on mine are perfectly smooth. After carrying my illuminati, which is also a great light, the threads on the mini have reminded me how much I like aluminum threads and how I will probably stick with aluminum, at least for twisty lights, from now on.


----------



## Launch Mini (Jan 20, 2010)

sol-leks said:


> I feel like this was already answered but I can't remember now, the cool white is floodier than the neutral white due to the XPG right? How do the transition from hotspot to spill compare on these two lights?
> 
> I would agree.
> My nephews was the cool white. In my living room, his really lit up the ceiling. Very bright & floody. My warm one does not do this.
> The neutral is not as floody and doesn't have that "wow it's bright' factor, but I like the warm light in general.


----------



## compasillo (Jan 20, 2010)

reflecyion said:


> glad i went for the AA version then!
> cant wait for it to arrive(aswell as the 14500's and charger from DX that i ordered 3 weeks ago lol)



Keep in mind when using 14500 not to "abuse" of high mode for a long time,
otherwise you may end up with a driver/led prematurely dead


----------



## compasillo (Jan 20, 2010)

Morelite said:


> The low is brighter with Li-ion.



From my experience, since I have 4 QmAA, I can say the low mode is the same
bright on 14500 and AA alkaline/lithium. Don't ask me why. That's a fact checked
repeatedly.
Medium is about 50% brighter on 14500 and High is 100% brighter.
That's all referred to my 4 lights.


----------



## compasillo (Jan 20, 2010)

sol-leks said:


> I feel like this was already answered but I can't remember now, the cool white is floodier than the neutral white due to the XPG right? How do the transition from hotspot to spill compare on these two lights?
> 
> I was also thinking about it, and alot of people complain about the give in the threads and while it might be better if this was not the case, to be fair with 150 hours on low, you are in very little danger of sapping draining your battery in any significant sense. Of course some people have found the threads gritty too, although the threads on mine are perfectly smooth. After carrying my illuminati, which is also a great light, the threads on the mini have reminded me how much I like aluminum threads and how I will probably stick with aluminum, at least for twisty lights, from now on.



I have a QmAA neutral white and the beam is tighter whereas transition from hot spot to side spill is quite noticeable. The beam is improved a lot If you use a 14500. I think that's the ideal power source for neutrals.

The threads in my titanium AA's are gritty, but grip is better than Al. Some lube and a little work may improve this quite a bit, but you won't get it as smooth as Al.
I agree Ti is not for twisties.


----------



## joshconsulting (Jan 20, 2010)

Anyone wanna get me tailcap amp readings on a Quark MiNi 123 with a RCR? :twothumbs


----------



## sol-leks (Jan 20, 2010)

Thanks for the responses. I have a cool white 123 and floodiness and smooth transition is very important to me, so it sounds like I went with the right light.

It's kinda funny, one other thing I really like is the logo on the tailcap. Normally, I don't really pay attention to branding, and I usually dislike any kind of branding on the clothes I wear, but that 47's logo on the bottom is super slick.


----------



## NutSAK (Jan 21, 2010)

sol-leks said:


> I was also thinking about it, and alot of people complain about the give in the threads and while it might be better if this was not the case, to be fair with 150 hours on low, you are in very little danger of sapping draining your battery in any significant sense.



With loose threads, there's no guarantee that it will stay on low.


----------



## Nake (Jan 21, 2010)

joshconsulting said:


> Anyone wanna get me tailcap amp readings on a Quark MiNi 123 with a RCR? :twothumbs


 
Mine shows 1.21A with an AW at 4.16V.


----------



## kaichu dento (Jan 21, 2010)

NutSAK said:


> With loose threads, there's no guarantee that it will stay on low.


They would have to be stripped with bad contacts too, to not stay once set and I don't think we've seen any evidence of that yet. 
I've experienced a couple skips so far too, but have been lucky that all my threads (AA's only) have been tight and I hope we find that the percentage of lights with bad threads stay low. although there are already more than there probably should have been.


----------



## chef4850 (Jan 21, 2010)

I recieved my mini 123 ti a few days ago and today I noticed something strange. Around the inside of the lense around the top rim of the reflector there seems to be an amber colored "something" there. I am not sure if it is rust. It looks like the reflector is rusting. I have washed it one time under mildly running water and dried it immediately. Has anyone else noticed this or have an idea of what it is. I do not want to try to take it apart yet and void the warenty so I sent an e-mail to 47's have not recieved a reply as of yet. 

I must say this is a great light! I really like it and want to get another but until find out something I will just hold off. 

Chef


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Jan 21, 2010)

Launch Mini said:


> Got my first MiNi123 last night, thanks to Gunga.
> Made the trade cash for a little white box, in a parking lot:shrug:
> 
> Got the neutral white version. Very impressed with this little guy.
> ...


 
Vancouver trading at it's finest.


----------



## LumaNaughty (Jan 21, 2010)

I just received a Quark MINI AA and a Quark MINI 123 today. Does anyone know if 4sevens uses the same type of lens and coating on the MINIs as the 123^2 and the AA^2?

On their site for the MINI:
"Lens: Optical-grade glass lens with anti-reflective coating on both sides"

On their site for the 123^2:
Impact-resistant glass lens with Dual-coating - sapphire coating on the outside and anti-reflective coating on the inside for optimal efficiency and durability.

Sounds like they went with a cheaper coating on the MINIs?


----------



## LightShine (Jan 21, 2010)

Hi all,
I just received my mini AA when I got home from work today and I am very impressed with this well made flashlight. I have read some recent posts that mentioned sloppy threads or tinting issues and was eager to check mine out and I'm happy to say it's perfect.:twothumbs

Great job 4Sevens, this may be my first purchase but surely won't be my last. 

Now that I have my EDC taken care of, and my nightstand flashlight (Fenix TA-30) I need to start thinking about putting something in my backpack.:naughty: I think my wife is starting to worry.


----------



## jsholli (Jan 21, 2010)

LumaNaughty said:


> Sounds like they went with a cheaper coating on the MINIs?



'don't know for sure, but it certainly holds up better than other AR coatings that I have in my MagLites...they rub off with good cleanings :shakehead


----------



## Quension (Jan 21, 2010)

LumaNaughty said:


> Sounds like they went with a cheaper coating on the MINIs?



Yes, no sapphire due to cost.


----------



## LumaNaughty (Jan 21, 2010)

bullfrog said:


> C+ on the external portion: TON of play in the threads - they seem thin, gritty and cheap. The threads have so much play that when the light is off, I can push the head to the side and the light will turn on (momentary on - awesome!!! ) - its also frustrating trying to turn the light on w one hand as if the head is pressed against the side, that makes it jump a level... Really wish the threads were thicker.
> .



I agree there is a tons of play in the MINI 123 threads and I am able to push mine on. My MINI AA has better threads and doesn't have play in them. I can't push the AA on like I can the 123.

I am loving the 14500 in the MINI AA, brighter then the 123...


----------



## Woods Walker (Jan 21, 2010)

I got my mini AA warm today and took it out for a hike. It's bright for sure but not crazy bright. Kinda like the iTP A3 and A2 however I wasn't looking for that rather in it for the tint and 4/7 came though. Wow great tint. Not too salmon pink etc, just nice and warm. The light throws great too given the size. The threads are very smooth with zero play. It is so much like the iTP on many levels in terms of build etc. This was what I expected so happy. The UI is good and the low, like the iTP is perfect. I think there could be somekinda PWM but not bad like the A3, more like the A2 so it's very hard to see. Yea have to work at it, if there is even a PWM in the first place? So once again I am happy. There is almost no indicator hum with mine. Maybe if placed almost inside my ear on med I could almost hear something but given I got good ears I am happy. It fits the Nitecore headband but a bit loose, however should be fine around camp and may loop a bit of cord, just incase needed for backup headlamp. Very UL and was smaller than expected. Good job 4/7s.


----------



## joshconsulting (Jan 21, 2010)

Does the Ti version of the 123 have tighter thread tolerances (i.e. no wobble) ? Anyone have experience trying RCRs in the Ti? Any issues with heat buildup?

I'm trying to justify paying more for the Ti version, if I wasn't planning on RCRs I'd have it in a heartbeat :twothumbs


----------



## NutSAK (Jan 21, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> They would have to be stripped with bad contacts too, to not stay once set and I don't think we've seen any evidence of that yet.
> I've experienced a couple skips so far too, but have been lucky that all my threads (AA's only) have been tight and I hope we find that the percentage of lights with bad threads stay low. although there are already more than there probably should have been.



I was interpreting what Sol-leks said differently. He was referring to loose threads, so I was interpreting his comment as "accidentally" selecting low due to those loose threads, for instance inside a pocket when the head might be "pushed" on. If skips to higher modes can happen when intentionally selecting a low level, they can accidentally happen also, in a case such as this. Therefore the light could come on in your pocket in med or high mode, and it wouldn't necessarily take 150 hours to drain your battery.

My interpretation could have been incorrect...


----------



## windstrings (Jan 22, 2010)

Well the thread job may not be perfect for first generation.. but the price is absolutely right for what you get.

About 3 tight wraps of plumbers tape fixes the threads right up and makes things smooth too.


----------



## bondr006 (Jan 22, 2010)

windstrings said:


> but the price is absolutely right for what you get.




I couldn't agree with you more windstrings. My mini123 is just as close to perfect as you can get in every way and well worth the $36.00 I paid for it. No play in the threads at all. Can only push it on if it is so close to turning on that the next slightest turn does it. Has the most beautiful smooth, white, creamy beam I have seen on any of my lights. The thing is a little dynamo that keeps up with most of my bigger lights. I couldn't have asked for a better little edc. Thanks David for such great work and giving us what we asked you for....:thumbsup:


----------



## pobox1475 (Jan 22, 2010)

> Does the Ti version of the 123 have tighter thread tolerances (i.e. no wobble) ? Anyone have experience trying RCRs in the Ti? Any issues with heat buildup?


 AA Ti here. Threads are tight. No one hand turning. I actually like them as are and would not be happy if they were loose. Li-Ion will heat it up to the point where you will want to back down within 10 minutes or less. I am fine with this as the increased mid output is adequate for most lighting tasks. Go for the Ti. IMHO you will not regret it.


----------



## joshconsulting (Jan 22, 2010)

My main concern with Ti is that the light WON'T heat up. I don't mind holding a hot flashlight in my hand to cool it off, but if the outside doesn't warm up much, the inside will fry the LED. I can run an Al Mini as long as I want if I hold it because the heat is dissipated. I'm afraid that output will drop with the potential for frying the LED\circuitry if I use the Ti version.


----------



## sol-leks (Jan 22, 2010)

NutSAK said:


> I was interpreting what Sol-leks said differently. He was referring to loose threads, so I was interpreting his comment as "accidentally" selecting low due to those loose threads, for instance inside a pocket when the head might be "pushed" on. If skips to higher modes can happen when intentionally selecting a low level, they can accidentally happen also, in a case such as this. Therefore the light could come on in your pocket in med or high mode, and it wouldn't necessarily take 150 hours to drain your battery.
> 
> My interpretation could have been incorrect...



You are a good interpreter nutsak. I did not realize that about the "push on". Just tried it out and you are indeed correct. Oh well, I'll just have to be more careful about loosening the head enough when I turn it off. Still doesn't really bother me.


----------



## kaichu dento (Jan 22, 2010)

NutSAK said:


> I was interpreting what Sol-leks said differently. He was referring to loose threads, so I was interpreting his comment as "accidentally" selecting low due to those loose threads, for instance inside a pocket when the head might be "pushed" on. If skips to higher modes can happen when intentionally selecting a low level, they can accidentally happen also, in a case such as this. Therefore the light could come on in your pocket in med or high mode, and it wouldn't necessarily take 150 hours to drain your battery.
> 
> My interpretation could have been incorrect...


 I we both understood what he was saying, but I mistook what you were saying! 

I've run into this problem enough times in the past that I've developed the habit of pushing to make sure my light won't come on, and thankfully, it is not a problem on any of my MiNi's.


----------



## pobox1475 (Jan 22, 2010)

> I've developed the habit of pushing to make sure my light won't come on


 *+1.

*


> I can run an Al Mini as long as I want if I hold it because the heat is dissipated. I'm afraid that output will drop with the potential for frying the LED\circuitry if I use the Ti version.


 Either material will get hot with a Li-Ion. Yes aluminum does dissipate a little better but the surface area of the light is minimal and the heat really has no where to go. If you _intend_ on using as much as the high mode as possible then the alloy is probably best for you. For me I have other lights to use for more uuummph if necessary. A Mini is a easily carried *just in case* light IMHO.


----------



## Woods Walker (Jan 23, 2010)

Ok I made my camp diffuser/lightstick/whatever out of my mini warm shown next to my E01. Hard to tell from the photos but the tint is still good using this as the homemade diffuser is semi clear. The bottom is thicker so I don't get a blinding beam. Works much like the E01 crazy glue diffuser but better.


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Jan 23, 2010)

Woods Walker said:


> I think there could be somekinda PWM but not bad like the A3, more like the A2 so it's very hard to see. Yea have to work at it, if there is even a PWM in the first place?


 
Mini 123 uses PWM, I assume AA version must too.

I didn't even notice it until I was working on a computer and lit up some fans.

It seems to use a different PWM frequency on low and medium mode too (no PWM on high of course). Switch modes, then a second later you see the PWM adjust to a different rate.

From what I can see the frequency must be quite high - I certainly don't notice it anywhere but on computer fans...

EDIT: The reason I remarked on the different PWM frequencies - different frequencies would seem obvious if PWM was the mechanism to control output levels. But when you switch between low and medium it seems to hold the SAME frequency at first, then it re-adjusts, yet it does change levels instantly, weird...


----------



## jsholli (Jan 23, 2010)

Woods Walker said:


> Ok I made my camp diffuser/lightstick/whatever out of my mini warm shown next to my E01. Hard to tell from the photos but the tint is still good using this as the homemade diffuser is semi clear. The bottom is thicker so I don't get a blinding beam. Works much like the E01 crazy glue diffuser but better.


 
Quite impressive W.W. I have a fenix tip en route to satisfy my curiosity, but you definitely get my :twothumbs for your ingenuity!

PS: my Ti version should be delivered today; quite the deal for free shipping IMO! :thumbsup:


----------



## windstrings (Jan 23, 2010)

Okey Dokey.... Just got my Mini ti 123 and its baaaad to the boowne!

The pic below is with fully charged RCRs in both with settings on high for comparison.....
* NOTE Crab claw clip on Mini purchased separately from 4 sevens.

Mini 123 ti on the left and Fenix PD 10 ti on the right


----------



## Ian2381 (Jan 23, 2010)

My Mini AAs is in the front row.:twothumbs


----------



## Beamhead (Jan 23, 2010)




----------



## Burgess (Jan 23, 2010)

Cool Photograph, Beamhead !


Musta' pumped it full of* Helium*, eh ?


__:goodjob:
_


----------



## Beamhead (Jan 23, 2010)

Burgess said:


> Cool Photograph, Beamhead !
> 
> 
> Musta' pumped it full of* Helium*, eh ?
> ...


 
:thanks: Did you see this one? Click me


----------



## Burgess (Jan 23, 2010)

My goodness !


That second photo looks like a Dream sequence.


This is what Flashaholics *Dream *about !


_


----------



## Pummy (Jan 23, 2010)

Has anyone spent time trying to figure out how to ensure the spring is held in at the bottom of the body?

I was thinking about solder, crazy glue and others but figured I would put the question out here with the true mad hatters to see what solutions can be had.

I carry a spare spring in case I lose mine in the dark when changing the cell but it would be best if I could simply leave the spares behind.

So any creative solutions already implemented yet?


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Jan 23, 2010)

Pummy said:


> Has anyone spent time trying to figure out how to ensure the spring is held in at the bottom of the body?
> 
> I was thinking about solder, crazy glue and others but figured I would put the question out here with the true mad hatters to see what solutions can be had.
> 
> ...


 
Um, don't lose the spring when changing the battery? Seriously, I'm not trying to sound like a smartbutt here, but seriously, how hard could it be to simply ensure not losing the spring?

Unless you're in a war zone or something - but then I wouldn't be relying on a Quark Mini in the first place...


----------



## Pummy (Jan 23, 2010)

Oh I assure you that I take due diligence when changing the cell to ensure the spring stays in place.

Due to the spring not being affixed to the body directly like clickies are or other models have, there is a risk, however small that I may be in the dark, get jostled, hit my elbow on something or some other small percentage event may happen which means I tip the body and the spring falls right out.

This also does not cover if the spring becomes a little disloged and settles on it's side. You then have to put your little finger in and fiddle it upright again before putting the cell in.


----------



## Morelite (Jan 23, 2010)

Pummy said:


> Has anyone spent time trying to figure out how to ensure the spring is held in at the bottom of the body?
> 
> I was thinking about solder, crazy glue and others but figured I would put the question out here with the true mad hatters to see what solutions can be had.
> 
> ...


 
Must be an 123 model issue, my AA model spring is nice an tight and it won't fall out even trying to make it come out. 
Anyway, can you stretch or expand the diameter of the bottom coil to make it fit tighter?


----------



## gbelleh (Jan 23, 2010)

The spring in my Mini 123 won't come out either, even when I try to shake it out. I didn't know this was an issue with some of these until just now.


----------



## Woods Walker (Jan 23, 2010)

jsholli said:


> Quite impressive W.W. I have a fenix tip en route to satisfy my curiosity, but you definitely get my :twothumbs for your ingenuity!
> 
> PS: my Ti version should be delivered today; quite the deal for free shipping IMO! :thumbsup:


 
Here is another. A 4 oz. narrow mouth Nalgene that needed no mods but one of my bottles was too loose for some reason so maybe others may have to use a bit of tape on the inside. Worked for me as is. 

4 oz. attached and 2 oz. with tape mode off to the left. Q3-5A3 tint works well for these as looking to use this as a hanging lantern.









The lanyard that came with the mini is not that good for my needs so made this one out of the parts. Sorry 4/7s but I cut yours up.  I have a small plastic hook around someplace to attach the yellow Kevlar line to orange paracord as a split ring is just too hard to work with my gloves. For now just got it looped to the paracord as is.


----------



## Nake (Jan 23, 2010)

Pummy said:


> Has anyone spent time trying to figure out how to ensure the spring is held in at the bottom of the body?


 
Gently squeeze the base of the spring with pliers to make it a little oval.


----------



## windstrings (Jan 23, 2010)

yes Sir... the Ti's are the cream of the crop IMO!.. very beautiful animals!

My Mini ti 123 threads are perfect... not quite as smooth as my ti PD 10, but not loose at all.

Quite a piece of art.


----------



## NutSAK (Jan 24, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> I we both understood what he was saying, but I mistook what you were saying!



I made a comment and didn't bother to explain myself. It's a character flaw of mine. :shrug: 



kaichu dento said:


> I've run into this problem enough times in the past that I've developed the habit of pushing to make sure my light won't come on, and thankfully, it is not a problem on any of my MiNi's.



I do the same, and I've not had any issues with lights coming on in my pocket. I practice it enough to "memorize" how far to turn the head back so that I don't have to test it every time. This works, but I view it as an inconvenience to have to always remember to turn the head back 1/2 a turn or so with one hand. 1/4 turn or so seems more natural to me.

It's not a problem with my MiNi AA or replacement 123 though, neither of them will "push on" when backed off 1/4 turn.

Beamhead, that's a beautiful pic of the 123 Ti!!


----------



## compasillo (Jan 24, 2010)

@Windstrings

Would you mind to resize your pics to 800x600?

Thank you


----------



## Nake (Jan 24, 2010)

compasillo said:


> Would you mind to resize your pics to 800x600?


 
800x800 is the new max.


----------



## compasillo (Jan 24, 2010)

Nake said:


> 800x800 is the new max.



Thanks for correcting me. Anyway, 800 is the max wide size still.


----------



## Pummy (Jan 24, 2010)

Nake said:


> Gently squeeze the base of the spring with pliers to make it a little oval.


Thanks for the tip! Will try it in a few mins.


----------



## Monocrom (Jan 24, 2010)

NutSAK said:


> Beamhead, that's a beautiful pic of the 123 Ti!!


 
You should see the one where he has it resting on several silver dollars. (The kind with actual silver in them).

That's the pic that caused me to get one of these beauties.


----------



## Pummy (Jan 24, 2010)

The tip about pinching the spring to make it oval worked a treat. If you have one that falls out when tipped over, this is the trick to use.


----------



## Beamhead (Jan 24, 2010)

NutSAK said:


> Beamhead, that's a beautiful pic of the 123 Ti!!


 


Monocrom said:


> You should see the one where he has it resting on several silver dollars. (The kind with actual silver in them).
> 
> That's the pic that caused me to get one of these beauties.


 
Thanks NutSAK, and glad I could entice you to get one Monocrom
I love mine.


----------



## bodhran (Jan 24, 2010)

Have there been any outdoor beamshots posted with the mini 123?


----------



## Monocrom (Jan 24, 2010)

Beamhead said:


> Thanks NutSAK, and glad I could entice you to get one Monocrom
> I love mine.


 
Yeah . . . My wallet hates you.


----------



## Woods Walker (Jan 24, 2010)

Seems like my AA is brighter with alkaline than LSD NiMH. I only used the one alky 4/7s sent. But also tested out a lithium primary and unless my eyes are playing tricks as don't have two to compare at the same time the Lithium Energizer seemed brighter than the other two. Good by me however wonder if this is the case.


----------



## Morelite (Jan 24, 2010)

Woods Walker said:


> Seems like my AA is brighter with alkaline than LSD NiMH. I only used the one alky 4/7s sent. But also tested out a lithium primary and unless my eyes are playing tricks as don't have two to compare at the same time the Lithium Energizer seemed brighter than the other two. Good by me however wonder if this is the case.


 
My observation is the same as yours and even brighter with 3v lithium primaries (from split apart CRV3s). The alkaline though is only brighter than a NiMh at first when fresh.


----------



## NutSAK (Jan 24, 2010)

Beamhead said:


> Thanks NutSAK, and glad I could entice you to get one Monocrom
> I love mine.



DAYUM! That _is_ nice! :twothumbs


----------



## 4sevens (Jan 24, 2010)

Morelite said:


> My observation is the same as yours and even brighter with 3v lithium primaries (from split apart CRV3s). The alkaline though is only brighter than a NiMh at first when fresh.


The Qmini and Preon drivers are voltage based boost circuits (plus PWM). The current to the LED directly correlates to the input V. Therefore fresh alkalines will have an initial advantage over nimh's. Thats why output tests should use the batteries they come with instead of nimh's. Even freshly charged nimh's will have lower initial output than alkalines


----------



## kaichu dento (Jan 25, 2010)

NutSAK said:


> I do the same, and I've not had any issues with lights coming on in my pocket. I practice it enough to "memorize" how far to turn the head back so that I don't have to test it every time. This works, but I view it as an inconvenience to have to always remember to turn the head back 1/2 a turn or so with one hand. 1/4 turn or so seems more natural to me.
> 
> It's not a problem with my MiNi AA or replacement 123 though, neither of them will "push on" when backed off 1/4 turn.


This is probably what everyone that carries a twisty light and has ever drained the battery because the light turned on in their pocket does! I guess most of the time I do what you're doing and just turn it back anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, knowing that I'm in the safety zone! 

I still think the threads (on the 7 MiNi's that I have) are pretty damn good, even if the they were more expensive. Heck, I can even push down on the head of my Ra Twisty and have it come on; it's just the nature of the beast when dealing with twisty's.


----------



## sugibdg (Jan 25, 2010)

Does Q mini 123 support RCR123?

_(Sorry if this question already asked)_

Sugiarto.


----------



## amigafan2003 (Jan 25, 2010)

Not officially.

The head is 0.9v to 4.2v rated but it's the heat that causes an issue. Many are using RCR's (I use 14500 cells in my MiNi AA) with only short bursts on high. If it goes pop though, don't expect 4Sevens to warranty it.


----------



## Roger999 (Jan 25, 2010)

If you're into DIY stuff and don't want to wait for the postman to deliver a pocket clip, you could try this: 

http://edcforums.com/index.php?topic=30430.0


----------



## jsholli (Jan 25, 2010)

Roger999 said:


> http://edcforums.com/index.php?topic=30430.0


 
Ahhh...hacksaw blade eh? I'd been pondering what would be the right size, but just thought that I'd have to buy some thin bar-stock from TSC. Thanks for the link Roger; you saved me some time and $$!


----------



## sugibdg (Jan 25, 2010)

amigafan2003 said:


> Not officially.
> 
> The head is 0.9v to 4.2v rated but it's the heat that causes an issue. Many are using RCR's (I use 14500 cells in my MiNi AA) with only short bursts on high. If it goes pop though, don't expect 4Sevens to warranty it.



Ok, thanks for the info.


----------



## reflecyion (Jan 26, 2010)

received my aluminum mini AA yesterday.
it has tight, smooth threads and a nice white tint.
on 14500 it seems brighter than my nkoray k106. haven't tested them outside yet, though..
i'm a happy customer.


----------



## Ian2381 (Jan 26, 2010)

I tried a Trustfire 14500 in my MiNi AA and it seems its too long, eventhough it still works it feels like it will destroy the light.

Is using a protected 10440 in MiNi AA better?


----------



## pobox1475 (Jan 26, 2010)

Try an AW protected. Fits perfectly in my Ti AA.


----------



## cistallus (Jan 27, 2010)

I got my Quark Mini 123 (not Ti, not neutral) a few days ago; some observations.

Mine seems to have loose threads. I can back it off 1/4 turn from tightened, and it still will go on if I press on the head. I have to back it off 1/2 turn to make sure it will stay off. Just past 1/2 turn is where the O-ring starts disengaging from the head, so at least that's easy to find by feel.

I tried the teflon plumber's tape trick, and it did work and reduced the loose thread problems, but didn't last long - tape transferred itself from the body threads where I'd applied it, to the head threads! Then with more use half of it fell off, so I removed it. One good thing about trying that: it seemed to remove the grittiness I felt in the threads when I first received the light.

Unintended mode switching is a problem so far - trying to use it one-hand, it's all too easy to flex the head a bit as I tighten it and it skips a mode or two. I hope I or someone in this group can figure out some way to do it reliably (without having to use two hands).

I can run it on high on AW RCR (at room temp) if I hold it fully enclosed in my hand, seems to be enough heat-sinking, plateaus after maybe 5 minutes - but when the battery is fresh, it's almost too hot to handle - I "hot potato" it between my hands - less of a problem after 10 minutes or so when the battery has run down a bit. It ran roughly a half hour. At the end it gave a fast flicker (like a fast strobe) for maybe 20 seconds and shut off; I took out the battery and measured it (within a couple minutes) at 3.14V. I was concerned that it was the light not the battery flickering, but putting in a primary lithium CR123A, it worked fine.

I'm glad I can use RCR123/16340 with this light. I'm moving towards rechargeables for most battery uses, and I want to use standard lithium ion batteries not special 3V-max lithium batteries/chargers, so I wouldn't have considered this light without the CPF comments saying RCR is OK other than heat.

Personally, I like the Low-Medium-High sequence, and I'm glad it has the additional flashing modes (though the SOS is a bit slow, and the beacon modes are really slow).

I happened to get an ITP A1 EOS at the same time as this - the lights seem almost identical in many respects, like the same manufacturer made them, other than the different LED type and tailcap/knurling; I can interchange the heads fine. One diff: the O-ring is situated slightly higher on A1 body so it's 1 1/2 turns before O-ring disengages vs. 1/2 turn for Mini.

Anyway, I tried the ITP A1 clip on the Mini - it's just held on the A1 with its semicircular arms - with some difficulty, it did fit snugly on rear of the narrower knurled part of the Mini, but then has a gap (maybe 1/16") between the low point of the clip and the body. So it might work on thick clothing, or probably you could bend it. Hopefully this group will find a better clip. I put the clip back on the A1, had to bend it back a bit; both lights slightly scratched up by this experiment.

I didn't notice the tint at first, was wowed by the brightness, but then comparing with my LiteFlux LF2X, and ITP A1, I could see it's greenish.

I checked PWM noise - on high, nothing; on medium, I can hear it only if head is within about 1/4" of my ear; on low, I can't hear it unless I actually stick the head in my ear, then can hear it faintly. Personally, I can't see the PWM visibly no matter how much I shake it around.

What is the recommended type of lubrication for the O-ring? For the threads? Is there maybe some really thick lubricant that would work kind of like the teflon tape?

Does anyone plan to do runtime vs. light output for the Mini, esp. for RCR? I don't have a light meter so can't do it.


P.S. the AW RCR123 I used for the light on-high test seems to now be partly bad - will only charge to 3.96V - but it still seems to work in a light - what does this mean?


----------



## Monocrom (Jan 27, 2010)

*To: cistallus ~*

If you want a thick lube, I have had excellent results using NyoGel 779ZC.

(Got a tube of it from Lighthound.com).


----------



## jsholli (Jan 27, 2010)

cistallus said:


> Unintended mode switching is a problem so far - trying to use it one-hand, it's all too easy to flex the head a bit as I tighten it and it skips a mode or two. I hope I or someone in this group can figure out some way to do it reliably (without having to use two hands).


 
My 2c: use the thread slack to your advantage by holding the head between your forefinger and middle finger and pushing the tail with your thumb to activate 'momentary on'. This works on my Al and Ti mini 123 models and my fenix P1D and PD10. Since the light must be very close to being activated to use this method, be sure to always back the light off some after you're done to avoid accidental use.


----------



## pobox1475 (Jan 27, 2010)

+1 NyoGel. I use the thinner 760G that is IMO better_ all around _light lube. Don't think the end termination at 3.96v is going to make any significant differance from 4.2v. I actually prefer mine to come off charger around 4.0 to extend their life over pumping the absolute most juice into them.


----------



## bullfrog (Jan 27, 2010)

Well, just got the replacement for my MiNi CR123 in neutral and I am happy camper :twothumbs

Nice tight threads and no issues skipping modes when using with one hand!

Makes a WORLD of difference regarding my impression of this little beauty.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Jan 27, 2010)

My 123 took a hard spill this morning and came up looking for more. As I pulled my keys out of my coat the magnet I'd glued to the light had a partial hold on the keys. So the light ended up hitting a hard faux-stone floor from about three feet. I thought at first the lens had popped out, but it was just the magnet breaking loose. If I look close the ano got scuffed, but it appears the magnet luckily took most of the hit. I must be more careful.

Geoff


----------



## nativecajun (Jan 27, 2010)

hron61 said:


> iv'e got my eye on one of these so im watching this thread closely. oh no not another light!! must resist. :thinking:


 

Get the CR123 version and you will not be disapointed. A light two and a quarter (approx) inches long that throws 189 lumens. Low is three lumens and can keep running at that setting for six and a quarter days. Awesome light. Awesome is to small a word. I have one and it works flawlessly. Beautifuly made. Build quallity is what I would call extreemly good. Better or as good as most top end lights I have or have seen.


----------



## windstrings (Jan 27, 2010)

nativecajun said:


> Get the CR123 version and you will not be disapointed. A light two and a quarter (approx) inches long that throws 189 lumens. Low is three lumens and can keep running at that setting for six and a quarter days. Awesome light. Awesome is to small a word. I have one and it works flawlessly. Beautifuly made. Build quallity is what I would call extreemly good. Better or as good as most top end lights I have or have seen.




The Ti version is a beautiful little jewel!.. I"ve had both and both are worth the money... either way you can't lose!


----------



## jsholli (Jan 27, 2010)

Flying Turtle said:


> My 123 took a hard spill this morning and came up looking for more...I must be more careful.
> Geoff


 
My aluminum version fell square on the warehouse floor [tempered concrete] several days ago with only scuffed ano as well...it appears to have hit bezel-first as the lanyard hit last and the bezel now has a small bare spot. The mini certainly seems to be tough enough to survive EDC'ing 

Since I've yet to say it: Thank you 4sevens!!! I currently have 3 mini 123 models and am very pleased with the UI, finish and output of them.


----------



## Morelite (Jan 27, 2010)

Here is a neat simple mod I did to my Ti AA.
I removed the tailspring and dropped in a 3/8" x 1/8" rare earth magnet then re-installed the tailspring and battery. The bottom coils of the spring fit over the outside diameter of the magnet and the battery still fits the same as before and there is no extra compression of the spring. The magnet is strong enough to hold the MiNi AA at a right angle on a verticle surface even though the magnet is on the inside. This should work just as well on the 123 model and maybe even better on the aluminum models. 

See for yourself, sorry about the blurry pic, my camara wanted to focus on everything but the light.


----------



## electromage (Jan 27, 2010)

I'm happý to say that I just joined the club! Got my Qmini-123 Q3-5A3 on Monday. Still on the original battery, but it's been getting a lot of use. Tint is very close to my Malkoff M30W.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Jan 28, 2010)

Great idea Morelite. I never really considered just putting the magnet down the battery tube. I might have to knock that magnet off the bottom again and try it as you have done. Hopefully it will be strong enough. Thanks for the tip.

Geoff


----------



## cistallus (Jan 28, 2010)

pobox1475 said:


> +1 NyoGel. I use the thinner 760G that is IMO better_ all around _light lube. Don't think the end termination at 3.96v is going to make any significant differance from 4.2v. I actually prefer mine to come off charger around 4.0 to extend their life over pumping the absolute most juice into them.



Thanks Monocrom and pobox1475 on the Nyogel - probably just get a tube of each (and pick up some batteries or a flashlight while I'm there to "round out" the order .

On the battery - I was concerned because it did charge up to 4.2V when I first got it. And the charger (Soshine SC-S1 mix) will charge up my other one to 4.2V, but this one only to 3.96V - it either just charges forever with a steady red charging LED, or at some point gives up and flashes red to indicate some problem has occurred. I've seen the warnings about batteries exploding - is there any danger of this one being bad that way since it will no longer charge up to its original max? It has no visible physical damage and has worked in the light fine at min/med/max for the few minutes I've used it since then.


----------



## cistallus (Jan 28, 2010)

jsholli said:


> My 2c: use the thread slack to your advantage by holding the head between your forefinger and middle finger and pushing the tail with your thumb to activate 'momentary on'. This works on my Al and Ti mini 123 models and my fenix P1D and PD10. Since the light must be very close to being activated to use this method, be sure to always back the light off some after you're done to avoid accidental use.



Thanks for the tip, it works! I guess this would be a "cigarette style" grip. For me it actually works better to just hold the body with my hand and press on the head with my thumb, because my keys hang off the light making the cigarette grip a bit awkward.

But the bigger message I'm taking away is: just use one of these momentary methods - instead of trying to tighten down the head, because in 90% of the cases I just need the light for 3-30 seconds and don't need that hand free. Given that, I don't mind carefully using two hands to carefully twist the light to the desired level when I need to leave it on for a while.

Interesting - while playing with this, at certain pressures pressing on the side of the head, the PWM noise on Medium level is much more audible - must be the threads resonating or something.


----------



## pobox1475 (Jan 28, 2010)

> is there any danger of this one being bad that way since it will no longer charge up to its original max?


 I don't think so. Throughout their service life Li-Ions begin to not accept as much of a charge as when initially put into use. For me since I generally *top off* my cells after and significant use.The _slight_ loss of capacity of an older cell affects performance little. Also top off's will extend their service life as the more you run them down toward the protection cut off will do the opposite.




> it either just charges forever with a steady red charging LED, or at some point gives up and flashes red to indicate some problem has occurred.


 *** *Second thought* ***

I would contact the maker or post that question in the batteries thread for one of our resident experts to address. I would not let it charge for long periods until you are sure it is safe. Sorry I kinda missed the _other one is fine_ statement.


----------



## Lightcrazycanuck (Jan 28, 2010)

Morelite said:


> Here is a neat simple mod I did to my Ti AA.
> I removed the tailspring and dropped in a 3/8" x 1/8" rare earth magnet then re-installed the tailspring and battery. The bottom coils of the spring fit over the outside diameter of the magnet and the battery still fits the same as before and there is no extra compression of the spring. The magnet is strong enough to hold the MiNi AA at a right angle on a verticle surface even though the magnet is on the inside. This should work just as well on the 123 model and maybe even better on the aluminum models.
> 
> See for yourself, sorry about the blurry pic, my camara wanted to focus on everything but the light.


 
Sweet tip Morelite. I will have to give it a try.


----------



## Dan FO (Jan 28, 2010)

I just received Ti 123 MiNi #194 and it's threads are as smooth as butter out of the box and one hand operation is no problem at all. it's perfect and there is enough tension to keep it from coming on in my pocket. I did put a beefier split ring on it though, the original is kind of thin.


----------



## LG&M (Jan 28, 2010)

Nice tip Morelite, Thanks.


----------



## cistallus (Jan 29, 2010)

Finally some runtimes and other good info on the Minis in new reviews:

http://www.light-reviews.com/4sevens_quark_mini_cr123/

http://www.light-reviews.com/4sevens_quark_mini_aa/


----------



## pobox1475 (Jan 29, 2010)

Just last night after fiddling with my Ti AA running a 14500 I decided to utilize Eneloops exclusively. Light became hot within a minute and made the decision that a three mode light is more useful than two mode. Do miss the nice mid Li-Ion level though.


----------



## jonnyfgroove (Jan 29, 2010)

cistallus said:


> Finally some runtimes and other good info on the Minis in new reviews:
> 
> http://www.light-reviews.com/4sevens_quark_mini_cr123/
> 
> http://www.light-reviews.com/4sevens_quark_mini_aa/



Holy smokes, 262 lumens out of the AA on 14500. I hope mine does not go 

I guess the only time you get the advertised 90 lumens out of the AA would be the first burst on a new alkaline? Kinda weak. Don't get me wrong though, I love my MiNi AA and would not even consider leaving the house without it on my person.


----------



## windstrings (Jan 29, 2010)

jonnyfgroove said:


> Holy smokes, 262 lumens out of the AA on 14500. I hope mine does not go



I suppose its the exact same story with the MINI 123 using "16340 = CR123".
I have no problems but I don't turn it to high an leave it that way.

I simply hold it in my hand and when I feel it getting to warm, I turn it off or turn it down.

The time it takes to do that varies on outside ambient temp.


----------



## mitro (Jan 30, 2010)

Those are interesting numbers. MrGman only got 200 otf with the MiNi 123 running an IMR 16340. (which should have less voltage sag)


----------



## lostinwv (Jan 30, 2010)

I'm considering picking up a rechargeable 16340 li-ion cell to use in my MiNi 123, to see what this reported 255 lumens on high looks like. My question(s):

I imagine that the output on the low and medium levels will also be bumped up if I am using a 16340 rechargeable. Is this true?

Also:

Does it make any difference if I use a 3.6v cell rather than the 3.7v that I have read can be used with this flashlight?

Sorry if these are dumb questions, but I don't know the answers! Thanks for any replies.

btw, I'm on my second MiNi 123. I sent the first one back because of the very frustrating mode skipping that I was experiencing. The second one works perfectly- absolutely no problem so far.

Dave


----------



## Morelite (Jan 30, 2010)

The Qmini drivers are voltage based boost circuits with PWM. The current to the LED directly correlates to the input voltage and so all the levels will be brighter with higher input voltage.

There is not really any difference between a 3.6v and 3.7 volt Li-ion cell and you won't see any difference in output between the two.


----------



## ctcfirearms (Feb 1, 2010)

HeyGuysWatchThis said:


> So has anyone come up with a way to put a pocket clip on the Mini 123 yet?


 
If you don't mind a little DIY and "tapping a hole" in this little gem, this "mod" is very sturdy and is working very well for me. If there is interest from my fellow CPF users, I'll be happy to post a list of parts and describe assembly. :wave:

ctcfirearms


----------



## Monocrom (Feb 1, 2010)

Here's my little Beauty, next to a non-Ti Benchmade Benchmite II.
(For some reason, the blade came out black and the handle looks grey. But the knife looks closer to silver in appearence in real life.)





*EDIT:*

*Almost forgot. Click on the thumbnail pic for a much better look at both EDC items. *


----------



## MarkW (Feb 1, 2010)

ctcfirearms said:


> If you don't mind a little DIY and "tapping a hole" in this little gem, this "mod" is very sturdy and is working very well for me. If there is interest from my fellow CPF users, I'll be happy to post a list of parts and describe assembly. :wave:
> 
> ctcfirearms



YES PLEASE!


----------



## Kilovolt (Feb 2, 2010)

The fastener of the lanyard supplied with the Mini has a very deep groove in which a tritium vial can be easily glued:







:wave:


----------



## SuperTrouper (Feb 2, 2010)

Kilovolt said:


> The fastener of the lanyard supplied with the Mini has a very deep groove in which a tritium vial can be easily glued:
> :wave:



 How did I not notice this?!


----------



## Jida (Feb 2, 2010)

Order in and shipped for the Mini 123.

Got my first box of (50) CR123 primaries a couple weeks ago and wanted a second light that could use them.

Staring on low, small size and easy tail stand = perfect storm light IMO.


----------



## TDL (Feb 2, 2010)

I like the clip design of CTCFIREARMS


----------



## bedazzLED (Feb 3, 2010)

Hi all.

I purchased a Mini 123 and AA a while ago, liked them so much, have another AA on the way at the moment and about to order another 123 for my brother-in-law.

I also thought I'd take the plunge and get a Mini 123 Ti. It finally arrived a few days ago, and I've just finished typing in a 'Contact Us' letter at the 4Sevens website.

First off, I think these lights are fantastic, especially the 123 Ti, but mine seems to be defective or it has some flaky connection, or is just plain demented!

First off, one-handed operation is out of the question, simply too tight, whereas my aluminium one is beautifully smooth and easily operated one-handed.

Next, the twisty head has to sometimes be twisted so hard to get it to turn on I'm afraid I'm going to damage something. I've tried cleaning and re-greasing but no luck.

Next it's the low-med-hi sequence. I wish I had one!. This thing goes from low to hi to strobe, sometimes hi to low, sometimes it simply turns off, will flicker once and go to hi, sometimes it will actually go low-med-hi, then turn off. Sometimes I actually get lo-med-hi in one sequence, then it will do a quick flash and it's off to the strobe.

It's a sick little puppy indeed.

I'll wait for the team at 4Sevens to get back to me as I've given up. There's is only so much I can clean and grease it, and there is basically nothing to tighten or loosen.

But it certainly looks great!.

Can't wait for the Quark Mini CR2, looks awesome!


----------



## kaichu dento (Feb 3, 2010)

bedazzLED said:


> Can't wait for the Quark Mini CR2, looks awesome!


Me too, I have really taken a liking to all my CR2 lights and this thing is going to be tiny! What he said, can't wait! :twothumbs


----------



## windstrings (Feb 3, 2010)

bedazzLED said:


> I'll wait for the team at 4Sevens to get back to me as I've given up. There's is only so much I can clean and grease it, and there is basically nothing to tighten or loosen.
> 
> But it certainly looks great!.
> 
> Can't wait for the Quark Mini CR2, looks awesome!




Sounds like you got a freak...... mine worked perfect right out of the box.... coolest little "and brightest for its size" light I've ever had.

Are you using strange batteries in it?..... just for size sake, have to you tried primaries or are you using CR123 batteries thats worked in any other light you've ever had?


----------



## eljuez (Feb 3, 2010)

bedazzLED said:


> Hi all.
> 
> I purchased a Mini 123 and AA a while ago, liked them so much, have another AA on the way at the moment and about to order another 123 for my brother-in-law.
> 
> ...


 You're not alone. Go over to 47s' forum in the manufacturers forums and read the thread about the minis' problems. While some may have no problems with the skipping modes, way too many have, including me. There are more than enough responses to indicate a glitch in the minis that 47s need to address without waiting for more complaints.


----------



## windstrings (Feb 3, 2010)

I bet thats a very small percentage...... as with any review... often the majority of the feedback comes from those with problems.

For the money you can take a chance and always send it back.

Or you can buy a more expensive light "like the PD 10 ti" or "nitecore ez123" and pay much more for the same abilities or even less with RCR's.


----------



## Monocrom (Feb 3, 2010)

eljuez said:


> You're not alone. Go over to 47s' forum in the manufacturers forums and read the thread about the minis' problems. While some may have no problems with the skipping modes, way too many have, including me. There are more than enough responses to indicate a glitch in the minis that 47s need to address without waiting for more complaints.


 
Looks like I got lucky. Was ordering a few items from Unique Titanium, and noticed they had Mini Quarks on their site. I wanted to get one anyway, and decided to get mine from them.


----------



## eljuez (Feb 3, 2010)

windstrings said:


> I bet thats a very small percentage...... as with any review... often the majority of the feedback comes from those with problems.
> 
> For the money you can take a chance and always send it back.
> 
> Or you can buy a more expensive light "like the PD 10 ti" or "nitecore ez123" and pay much more for the same abilities or even less with RCR's.


 To date 211 users have responded to that thread. 82 report issues, or just about 40%. That to me is significant and that's just in that thread on this forum.


----------



## Warp (Feb 3, 2010)

I agree. To me it appears significant. I have been following this and other threads for awhile.

I was really close to getting a MiNi 123 after falling in love with my 123^2 Tac R5 and seeing how small/bright these thigns are...but after reading about how many people have had these issues with the MiNis....especially the threads on the MiNi123....I will wait and pick one up if/when 4Sevens makes some changes to the light.

The perception of a quality issue is too much to ignore, and the risk seems to high to bother with at the moment.


----------



## windstrings (Feb 3, 2010)

Maybe I just see it from a different angle.... to me its a cool light for 39.00 bucks whether it skips modes, has no modes, or threads don't feel smooth... its 39.00 bucks.... the cpf crowd is a tough one!
And the titanium version is cooler yet!

Its not there is not a return policy either that allows total satisfaction to either return it or exchange.

Its just an inexpensive light that has an awesome LED that puts out a ton of light with great runtimes, is compact, and tough.

I guess I"m focusing on the positives instead of the negatives for that price.

When I pay several hundred or more I get picky!


I won't name names, but I feel sorry for some of the dealers who go through tremendous efforts to do a new thing.... mill out the prototypes in their own garage and when it finally comes to being, its cast away like yesterdays sandwich because its not perfect in every way regardless of price.
We on CPF are pretty spoiled with the constant flow of cool new items hitting the market from all over the world. Its getting to be a tough crowd!

Like I said, you can pay 90.00 to 300.00 for a small pocket light and then be picky, but for 39.00 bucks I have a little mercy.

Its a bargain that beats anything in its class in performance.

Yes its unfortunate that somebody didn't pay more for quality control and in turn charge us more... but we are still getting a bargain... and you can return it if you get one with issues.

But if someone has to try 10 times to get it to skip a mode one time, its pretty silly to get all bent out of shape when the whole light only cost 39.00 bucks!

I'm sure the next generation will be better "and more expensive"

But human nature wants it all for nothing.... cheaper is better, always go for the one easier on the pocketbook, and then complain.

There has to be a line in the sand somewhere concerning what is reasonable for a given amount of money.

I think the Mini has far surpassed that line to the side of excellence!

Of course it doesn't "feel" that way if your stuck holding one thats giving you problems....... Cutting edge stuff is always buggy unless you pay tons of money for up front quality control and testing.

We can always return or exchange for another as some have done and been delighted with the results!

I know some people are strapped for cash and even 40.00 bucks is a sacrifice!.... my advise is to go to walmart instead of a place where the latest and greatest cutting edge lights are being sold "before the public ever gets to see them" and think your going to pick up a steal.


----------



## Warp (Feb 3, 2010)

Perhaps it is a bargain for what you get. $37 or so, delivered, with the CPF discount is a great deal.

But if it is going to annoy me with poor threads and skipped modes I'd rather keep chugging along with my tried and true Fenix P1D-Q5....the MiNi is not _enough _better to accept the possible issues.


That is just my opinion. Take it for what its worth, but I'll bet plenty of others have gone through the same thought process.




windstrings said:


> I know some people are strapped for cash and even 40.00 bucks is a sacrifice!.... my advise is to go to walmart instead of a place where the latest and greatest cutting edge lights are being sold "before the public ever gets to see them" and think your going to pick up a steal.


 

We are the public.

And I have pointed many non-flashaholics to 4Sevens site. Are you saying that these lights are not fit for consumption by the average person and I should stop telling people to buy them/sending them to his site unless they are CPF members or certified flashaholics?


----------



## Launch Mini (Feb 3, 2010)

IMO, it's is a great light for it's price point.
I plan on picking up 3 or 4 for guests at the cabin for the summer
It is great in that it has 3 levels of usefull light for them, and if the lose/break/take it home, it is not going to break my heart.

Like others have said, for $150, I want better tolerances. But for $40, doesn't bother me one bit if the threads are not perfect etc etc.

In a way, it is spoiling me on more expensive lights. Once I look at it's size, ease of use, output...., it makes it harder to justify spending more on something that does about the same or even less, but might have a bit better fit & finish.

I'm thinking about sealing one up with silicon, tying it to a fishing line with a weight and let it go to the bottom of the lake, to see what kind of glow I can get from it as it decends to the bottom. If I lose it or something fails, I won't be heart broken.


----------



## windstrings (Feb 3, 2010)

Warp said:


> Perhaps it is a bargain for what you get. $37 or so, delivered, with the CPF discount is a great deal.
> 
> But if it is going to annoy me with poor threads and skipped modes I'd rather keep chugging along with my tried and true Fenix P1D-Q5....the MiNi is not _enough _better to accept the possible issues.
> 
> ...




I"ve got the Fenix P1D-Q5 and the Mini Blows it away for brightness.... so I personally would take a chance with the worst that could happen is send it back and try again......

But you may not need another light at all, in that case its a value decision.

I don't consider CPF members to be the public... we are educated about lights, and informed about issues concerning the public... we are the go between... and excellent resource for manufactures to get a feel for what is wanted with some intelligent feedback for improvements etc.

While the issues need improvement, I can't recommend to improve it and then expect the price to be the same... I was shocked when I saw the low price.

The guy that walks into walmart and buys a light usually doesn't have a clue as to what he's getting, how to operate the modes, how to suggest improving it, or what factors come into play into making it for the price considered..... all he knows is it makes light.

Many people are that way about their car... they know they put a key in a hole and it goes but they have no clue as to how to even change the oil.... 

This is not the CPF crowd except for brand new members that are not educated yet.


----------



## Warp (Feb 3, 2010)

windstrings said:


> I"ve got the Fenix P1D-Q5 and the Mini Blows it away for brightness.... so I personally would take a chance with the worst that could happen is send it back and try again.......


 

Really. Damn.

I've tried to find first hand comparisons between the two without starting another thread or asking randomly in the middle of one.

I found one thread from a guy a couple months ago who had a new MiNi 123 and a P1D-CE (not the Q5) and in his estimation he would not think the MiNi worthwhile had his been the Q5.

That much brighter, really? The Q5 was rated for 180 lumens, the MiNi123 189. I know the 189 is OTF and the Fenix rating is, well, definately not, but still....I figured with the whole logarithmic view us humans have of light output and all that......


Really? That much brighter? I'm trying not to keep buying lights here, ya know.


----------



## bedazzLED (Feb 3, 2010)

windstrings said:


> Sounds like you got a freak...... mine worked perfect right out of the box.... coolest little "and brightest for its size" light I've ever had.
> 
> Are you using strange batteries in it?..... just for size sake, have to you tried primaries or are you using CR123 batteries thats worked in any other light you've ever had?



Hi Windstrings.

I simply used the battery that came with it, the 4Sevens one. I then tried a Titanium and another one I had. All are primaries. No luck with any.


----------



## mfm (Feb 3, 2010)

windstrings said:


> Like I said, you can pay 90.00 to 300.00 for a small pocket light and then be picky, but for 39.00 bucks I have a little mercy.
> 
> Its a bargain that beats anything in its class in performance.


Reality check: They are made by iTP which themselves sell their own equivalent models (iTP A1, iTP A2) with Q5s for half the price of the Quark Minis.


----------



## Beamhead (Feb 3, 2010)

mfm said:


> Reality check: They are made by iTP which themselves sell their own equivalent models (iTP A1, iTP A2) with Q5s for half the price of the Quark Minis.


They are not the same emitters nor half price.


----------



## 4sevens (Feb 3, 2010)

Beamhead said:


> They are not the same emitters nor half price.


The difference between R5 and Q5 is significant - it's about 7% per step - it's about 28% more efficient or 28% more light at the same power.

Also, all our lights come with batteries. Why would anyone sell a light without batteries?


----------



## Beamhead (Feb 3, 2010)

4sevens said:


> The difference between R5 and Q5 is significant - it's about 7% per step - it's about 28% more efficient or 28% more light at the same power.
> 
> Also, all our lights come with batteries. Why would anyone sell a light without batteries?


 
ITP is XP-E Q5, MiNI is XP-G R5 and you used to. :nana:


----------



## Zendude (Feb 3, 2010)

eljuez said:


> To date 211 users have responded to that thread. 82 report issues, or just about 40%. That to me is significant and that's just in that thread on this forum.



They responded that they felt the threads were loose (a VERY subjective topic). If the question was "Is the thread play causing problems" that would be different. I didn't vote but my Ti AA feels good to me. I can make it mode skip if I want to just like any other multi-mode twisty. Some people view it as a shortcut.

I checked the other lights I have and concluded they all had similar levels of thread play. 

That being said, One thing I've noticed with this style of light (MiNi and iTP A2,A3) is when you tighten the head it feels...squishy. The light is on but you can still tighten it a couple mm. Thinking it was because the body tube is so thin and there is not a whole lot of surface area making contact with the pcb, I filed the face of the body tube. This got rid of the inside bevel and increased the surface area to about 1mm. Didn't really help but there is more contact on the pcb. Oh well, not really a problem anyway.

Now I've got it in my head to turn this light into an anode isolated light like the EZAA. I'll let you know how it turns out.


----------



## 4sevens (Feb 3, 2010)

eljuez said:


> To date 211 users have responded to that thread. 82 report issues, or just about 40%. That to me is significant and that's just in that thread on this forum.


You also need to consider that thousands of mini's were sold - I'd say maybe a dozen contacted us about threads. There is a "fishbowl" effect in CPF - everyone starts to hyper-focus on some minute detail and obsess over it. Most of the ones sent back have no issue all.


----------



## bedazzLED (Feb 3, 2010)

Hi 4Sevens,

I think I have a 123 Ti with problems, and I have contacted you guys via your web-site and am currently waiting for a response.

It does not have thread play issues, it simply is a defective unit, with something not quite right, something loose inside, something broken or just not connecting and it is simply not usable. All my many other Quarks and torches from 4Sevens are absolutely fantastic, including my other Mini's, but this one is not a happy chappy. 

Regards,
bedazzLED.


----------



## 4sevens (Feb 3, 2010)

bedazzLED said:


> Hi 4Sevens,
> 
> I think I have a 123 Ti with problems, and I have contacted you guys via your web-site and am currently waiting for a response.
> 
> ...


I'm sorry about the problematic light. I just checked our email queue - it's been whittle down bit by bit and as of the end of today, emails through 1/30 should have been responded to. Perhaps by tomorrow they'll get to you


----------



## bedazzLED (Feb 3, 2010)

Hi 4Sevens.

No problem, I know how busy you guys are at the moment, what with all the new stuff coming out soon (I'll take 2 Mini CR2's please, 1 M500, .... ).

Look forward to getting my problem fixed soon.

Regards,
bedazzLED.


----------



## sabre7 (Feb 3, 2010)

Launch Mini said:


> I'm thinking about sealing one up with silicon, tying it to a fishing line with a weight and let it go to the bottom of the lake, to see what kind of glow I can get from it as it decends to the bottom. If I lose it or something fails, I won't be heart broken.



:thinking:


----------



## windstrings (Feb 3, 2010)

bedazzLED said:


> Hi 4Sevens.
> 
> No problem, I know how busy you guys are at the moment, what with all the new stuff coming out soon (I'll take 2 Mini CR2's please, 1 M500, .... ).
> 
> ...




You just got a bad one.... it happens


----------



## astcal (Feb 3, 2010)

Just got a Quark Mini 123 today, my first ever flashlight other than Costco Maglites.

It is ridiculously small and bright! thread works ok for me. the 3 twist routine is kinda less efficient if using the high most of times. 

Very nice little light given the price.


----------



## windstrings (Feb 3, 2010)

I too would like the modes the other way around... but at least this way, your reminded there is something besides bright!

Although I still never use the lower modes either unless I"m trying to not wake everybody.

I use rechargeables... always have.. even when I used to use my PD1.. but I have had several lights since that outshine the PD1... I know it was rated at 180, but its not true based on the way the MINI is rated.

Can anyone else confirm or deny the brightness differences between the Mini and the PD1?


----------



## PeaceOfMind (Feb 4, 2010)

eljuez said:


> To date 211 users have responded to that thread. 82 report issues, or just about 40%. That to me is significant and that's just in that thread on this forum.


 


4sevens said:


> You also need to consider that thousands of mini's were sold - I'd say maybe a dozen contacted us about threads.


 
4Sevens makes a really important point here. Statistically speaking, that poll is pretty much worthless. It is not a random sample. And having a random sample is pretty important if you want your poll to represent reality.

Basically, the poll is just sitting there and whoever wants to respond, will respond. However, some people are more likely to respond than others. In this case, it's extremely likely (pretty much a sure thing) that people with thread problems are more likely to respond, because they may be searching CPF for info about the issue and would be more likely to respond to such a poll if they saw it. I can pretty much gaurentee that the "40%" reporting issues is a gross overestimate of how many people have thread problems overall.

The poll may be interesting, but it's also pretty much meaningless as an indicator of how widespread the problem is. This is Statistics 101 stuff.

Combine this with the fact that what constitutes a "thread problem" is pretty subjective.


----------



## Warp (Feb 4, 2010)

Yes, it is stat 101 stuff. I have a basic stat course right now.....voluntary response bias is the big one.



I like the term "fish bowl effect" more, though. :laughing:


----------



## kaichu dento (Feb 4, 2010)

4sevens said:


> You also need to consider that thousands of mini's were sold - I'd say maybe a dozen contacted us about threads. There is a "fishbowl" effect in CPF - everyone starts to hyper-focus on some minute detail and obsess over it. Most of the ones sent back have no issue all.


Good point you've brought up and we do appreciate the fact that although we're small, you still come to feed us regularly!


----------



## Flying Turtle (Feb 4, 2010)

I remembered I had a clip (given to me by friend and flashaholic Rob) that once lived on a River Rock, or maybe Energizer AA light. It had been hiding on a Fenix body. I carefully eased it on to the QM 123 and it appears it will work like a champ. It's barely touching the knurling on the head and looks like it won't be scratching it up.

Rob might want the clip back when he sees this.







Geoff


----------



## Mr. Shawn (Feb 4, 2010)

Flying Turtle said:


> I remembered I had a clip (given to me by friend and flashaholic Rob) that once lived on a River Rock, or maybe Energizer AA light. It had been hiding on a Fenix body. I carefully eased it on to the QM 123 and it appears it will work like a champ. It's barely touching the knurling on the head and looks like it won't be scratching it up.
> 
> Rob might want the clip back when he sees this.
> 
> ...



Thank you, Flying Turtle! I've been wondering about this ever since the MiNis came out. I have some of the same clips and questioned how they'd fit. Looks like the light can't tailstand now, so have you tried pushing the clip farther onto the body to clear the tail?


----------



## LG&M (Feb 4, 2010)

I am posting to report my problem with my AA natural Mini...
None.. threads good, tint good, modes work.
Wish I had a clip but I knew it didn't when I ordered.
Thanks for the light.:naughty:


----------



## bedazzLED (Feb 4, 2010)

An up date to my Mini 123 Ti issue.

Got a response from 4Sevens and it's simply a case of me sending it back and they will be cross-sending one to me. I'm off to the post-office in a moment.

Thanks heaps to the fantastic team at 4Sevens, and full credit to their customer service.

Still waiting to order my Mini CR2 though :thumbsup:

Regards,
bedazzLED


----------



## windstrings (Feb 4, 2010)

Yep... thats why I don't see the big problem taking a risk...... I've done business with 4 sevens for years when they were only known as the Fenix-Store......... they are always great!

You can trust they will treat you right.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Feb 4, 2010)

Mr. Shawn said:


> Looks like the light can't tailstand now, so have you tried pushing the clip farther onto the body to clear the tail?



Actually it still tailstands just fine. I have a magnet glued to the end, so the clip can stick out a bit and still stand flat.

Geoff


----------



## bondr006 (Feb 4, 2010)

Flying Turtle said:


> Rob might want the clip back when he sees this.
> 
> Geoff




Just have it ready.....I'll be over tomorrow :nana:


----------



## ericvw (Feb 4, 2010)

I just received my order for one mini AA and one mini CR123 last night. The AA is original tint and the 123 is neutral tint. I bought both sizes/tints to decide which one I'd buy more of. Truth be told though, both are fantastic lights and I can't figure out which configuration I like best. There are some pretty strong opinions on this thread so I thought it would be an easy choice...but nope! Both sizes and tints are perfectly easy, small and bright. My opinion is that you can't go wrong with either shade of bulb color, and you can't go wrong with either form-factor.


----------



## pobox1475 (Feb 5, 2010)

> My opinion is that you can't go wrong with either shade of_ *bulb* color_


 Be careful calling it that  .... LOL


----------



## jorn (Feb 5, 2010)

Tried a AAA in my quark mini AA today, it works flawlessly:twothumbs It does rattle a lot, but if in a pinch i don't mind.


----------



## kaichu dento (Feb 6, 2010)

My friends just got in from Japan today and should have brought the lights I gave them, but my friends wife conveniently forgot her Arc-P because it was too heavy and bulky to carry! 

Then she told the truth and said that she figured I'd have some cool lights she could use, and twisty was her preference. Once glance at the beam of the neutral and the xp-g and she said in less than a second that she wanted the neutral! 
I find this pretty interesting because his dad noted how nice the neutral tint was when I gave him a Quark AAw. Upon seeing the tint, my friend bemoaned the fact that his LD01, although plenty bright, wasn't warm like the Quark and that he'd gladly give up a touch of brightness for the warmer tint.
Not sure if it's a tendency for all of them to pick the neutral tint because of cultural leanings, or because they're all country people!?! 

Oh, and they brought me an LED bulb with remote control for changing brightness and tint mixture all the way from warm to cool and everything in between!


----------



## cuttingedge (Feb 6, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> My friends just got in from Japan today and should have brought the lights I gave them, but my friends wife conveniently forgot her Arc-P because it was too heavy and bulky to carry!
> 
> Then she told the truth and said that she figured I'd have some cool lights she could use, and twisty was her preference. Once glance at the beam of the neutral and the xp-g and she said in less than a second that she wanted the neutral!
> I find this pretty interesting because his dad noted how nice the neutral tint was when I gave him a Quark AAw. Upon seeing the tint, my friend bemoaned the fact that his LD01, although plenty bright, wasn't warm like the Quark and that he'd gladly give up a touch of brightness for the warmer tint.
> ...


Please tell me more about the LED that changes tint! I am working on an idea to have a flashlight that you could switch between warm/cool tint. I would be very interested in how yours works. Feel free to PM if you like.


----------



## SuperTrouper (Feb 6, 2010)

cuttingedge said:


> Please tell me more about the LED that changes tint! I am working on an idea to have a flashlight that you could switch between warm/cool tint. I would be very interested in how yours works. Feel free to PM if you like.



I might be wrong but I think he's talking about a replacement for a household lightbulb which is a variable tint LED array.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Feb 7, 2010)

Discovered something of minor utility last night. The Mini 123 head will work on the old Rexlight body. A bit brighter I suppose and likely more efficient. The Rexlight head does not work on the Mini body.

Geoff


----------



## kaichu dento (Feb 7, 2010)

cuttingedge said:


> Please tell me more about the LED that changes tint! I am working on an idea to have a flashlight that you could switch between warm/cool tint. I would be very interested in how yours works. Feel free to PM if you like.


It's not an LED that changes tint, but a lightbulb which houses two separate emitters!


SuperTrouper said:


> I might be wrong but I think he's talking about a replacement for a household lightbulb which is a variable tint LED array.


Exactly!


----------



## FloggedSynapse (Feb 7, 2010)

Quark mini's look like some good lights!!

One question - is the regulator constant current or PWM??

Thanks


----------



## jonnyfgroove (Feb 7, 2010)

FloggedSynapse said:


> Quark mini's look like some good lights!!
> 
> One question - is the regulator constant current or PWM??
> 
> Thanks



Check out this post.


----------



## Green Lantern (Feb 7, 2010)

The Quark Mini (123) is still my "go to" flashlight. The honeymoon is over. I've had it now for a couple months and still use it much more than the nitecore ex10 or the fenix P3d.:twothumbs


----------



## Zendude (Feb 8, 2010)

Flying Turtle said:


> Discovered something of minor utility last night. The Mini 123 head will work on the old Rexlight body. A bit brighter I suppose and likely more efficient. The Rexlight head does not work on the Mini body.
> 
> Geoff




The MiNi AA is also interchangeable with the iTP A2. Hmmm, same board, same dimensions....same factory? :thinking:


----------



## windstrings (Feb 8, 2010)

Green Lantern said:


> The Quark Mini (123) is still my "go to" flashlight. The honeymoon is over. I've had it now for a couple months and still use it much more than the nitecore ex10 or the fenix P3d.:twothumbs




Yep.. I got two HIDs and a DEFT sitting on my nightstand... the Mini 123 is the go to.

See.. size "does" matter!


----------



## kz1000s1 (Feb 11, 2010)

I just got my Mini123 and so far I don't notice any problem with the threads or mode skipping. It would be nice if the lanyard hole was a little bigger. I'm using a wrist lanyard for a Fenix and I had to pull it through with piece of thread to get it in the hole.


----------



## Hobbs (Feb 18, 2010)

Just received my Mini AA today. Having only owned Mini Mag & 3C Mag Lights before, this thing blows my mind. I now want the AA/2 version, a Sure Fire AA (if ever released) and a RA Twisty if they make them again! At least collecting flashlights will be cheaper than the Cabernet Sauvignon I have been collecting, and they last longer too.


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Feb 19, 2010)

Green Lantern said:


> The Quark Mini (123) is still my "go to" flashlight. The honeymoon is over. I've had it now for a couple months and still use it much more than the nitecore ex10 or the fenix P3d.:twothumbs


 
For me the beauty of the Mini 123 is I rarely have to "go to" it - it is already on me.

That can't be said of any of my other lights - sure they get carried, and often, but only the Mini 123 is nearly ALWAYS on my person...


----------



## Pummy (Feb 19, 2010)

Dude Dudeson said:


> For me the beauty of the Mini 123 is I rarely have to "go to" it - it is already on me....only the Mini 123 is nearly ALWAYS on my person...



Seconded. The size factor is definately why this gets carried and used ALL the time. The issue which gets more attention is how to carry the spares in a box in a pocket rather than which torch to place into a pocket, round the neck, in the backup location, in the car and bag.


----------



## cistallus (Feb 20, 2010)

*Diffuser*: For the Quark Mini 123 (and the similar ITP A1 EOS), I want a lantern-type wand/diffuser (not a lens diffuser), for use as a tail-stand camping light. The travel size (trial size) aisle at the local drugstore has possibilities. The typical white cap from one of the small (2 ounce or so) bottles will often friction fit on the front of the light. Many are a bit too opaque, but I found one from a shampoo bottle that was translucent and works pretty well.

If that doesn't work for you, see this thread for lots of other ideas: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/261301

Thanks to this post for the basic idea (Chapstick cap for an AAA light diffuser, which does work nicely): https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3138553&postcount=37

*Clip*: I'm still looking for a clip for my Mini 123 - has anyone found anything? There seem to be lots of places to get assorted sizes of O-rings, lenses, key rings, etc. but not clips. I'm thinking of the type of removable clip with arms that would hug around the body of the light.


----------



## Beamhead (Feb 20, 2010)

cistallus said:


> *Diffuser*: For the Quark Mini 123 (and the similar ITP A1 EOS), I want a lantern-type wand/diffuser (not a lens diffuser), for use as a tail-stand camping light. The travel size (trial size) aisle at the local drugstore has possibilities. The typical white cap from one of the small (2 ounce or so) bottles will often friction fit on the front of the light. Many are a bit too opaque, but I found one from a shampoo bottle that was translucent and works pretty well.


 
I like the old white film canister diffuser.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Feb 20, 2010)

cistallus said:


> *Clip*: I'm still looking for a clip for my Mini 123 - has anyone found anything? There seem to be lots of places to get assorted sizes of O-rings, lenses, key rings, etc. but not clips. I'm thinking of the type of removable clip with arms that would hug around the body of the light.



Check out post #894 in this thread to see my QMini 123 clip.

Geoff


----------



## windstrings (Feb 20, 2010)

Dude Dudeson said:


> For me the beauty of the Mini 123 is I rarely have to "go to" it - it is already on me.
> 
> That can't be said of any of my other lights - sure they get carried, and often, but only the Mini 123 is nearly ALWAYS on my person...




Yep... I get in situations all the time where someone will need a light and they just look for me!


----------



## psychbeat (Feb 20, 2010)

I was on a long hike the other night and got caught at a higher tide than I
expected. I had my mini123 with an RCR in it and the BOOOST saved my a$$ from getting soaked when crossing a rocky point. I had a primary with me as backup incase the RCR died as the runtime is pretty short with them but having the SUPER high mode really made a difference when timing my sprint up the strand. 
anyways, FWIW the RCR and a backup primary is a pretty good combo:thumbsup:


----------



## gbelleh (Feb 20, 2010)

I was reading this thread, and noticed the bottle of Purell on my desk... the cap from these 2 oz. bottles fits perfectly on the Mini 123. :twothumbs


----------



## windstrings (Feb 20, 2010)

gbelleh said:


> I was reading this thread, and noticed the bottle of Purell on my desk... the cap from these 2 oz. bottles fits perfectly on the Mini 123. :twothumbs



LOL!.... tooo funny!


----------



## cistallus (Feb 20, 2010)

Beamhead said:


> I like the old white film canister diffuser.



Yes, I tried that and it's a good diffuser for tailstand when there's no wind - the canister sits nicely on the light. I wanted something more the size of the light, and that would friction fit. (Yes you can make a hole in the canister's cap to friction fit it, but the cap is part of what makes it a good diffuser - without it, not so good). So for EDC/camping a smaller friction fit cap is better for me.



Flying Turtle said:


> Check out post #894 in this thread to see my QMini 123 clip.



Thanks, I'll keep my eye out for something cheap in stores that might have a clip like that I could use. It still seems strange that there's no source for assorted clips.



gbelleh said:


> I was reading this thread, and noticed the bottle of Purell on my desk... the cap from these 2 oz. bottles fits perfectly on the Mini 123.



Yes, I found and tried that first, but for me (with a generic equivalent of the Purell), the cap absorbed a bit too much light, the more translucent shampoo bottle cap transmits more light and still diffuses well.


----------



## Beamhead (Feb 20, 2010)

cistallus said:


> (Yes you can make a hole in the canister's cap to friction fit it, but the cap is part of what makes it a good diffuser - without it, not so good).


 
The one in my pic has the cap cut/friction fit, the canister itself is the diffuser.
If wind is an issue then get a small lantern like the orbit.

Now I need to find a 2oz. bottle of purell.


----------



## jsholli (Feb 20, 2010)

If you heat the opening of the small fenix diffuser and bend the edge inward a few mm, it stays on quite well. If you're careful, it will still fit the fenix lights, too...


----------



## Blackbeard (Feb 20, 2010)

Got mine today, love the smooth threads and great spill.

Have the nitecore ez123 as well, and I'm contemplating the A1 eos SS to round off my growing micro collection


----------



## Andyy (Feb 22, 2010)

Can I use a 14500 in a neutral white mini AA without problems? (except for overheating)


----------



## recDNA (Feb 22, 2010)

bullfrog said:


> Well, just got the replacement for my MiNi CR123 in neutral and I am happy camper :twothumbs
> 
> Nice tight threads and no issues skipping modes when using with one hand!
> 
> Makes a WORLD of difference regarding my impression of this little beauty.


 

No longer available right?


----------



## recDNA (Feb 22, 2010)

eljuez said:


> You're not alone. Go over to 47s' forum in the manufacturers forums and read the thread about the minis' problems. While some may have no problems with the skipping modes, way too many have, including me. There are more than enough responses to indicate a glitch in the minis that 47s need to address without waiting for more complaints.


 
Mine skips modes sometimes too.


----------



## NutSAK (Feb 22, 2010)

Andyy said:


> Can I use a 14500 in a neutral white mini AA without problems? (except for overheating)



Yes.


----------



## AlphaZen (Feb 22, 2010)

Andyy said:


> Can I use a 14500 in a neutral white mini AA without problems? (except for overheating)


I have been using a 14500 in my Mini AA with no problems. It is incredible and I recommend it. Just don't leave it on high for long periods, especially out of hand. The low stays low, the medium gets bumped up to a very usable level and the high is just incredibly bright. Actually, it doesn't even heat up in your hand very fast. Just note that 4Sevens has changed their stance and no longer supports this.


----------



## AlphaZen (Feb 22, 2010)

recDNA said:


> Mine skips modes sometimes too.


+1


----------



## carrot (Feb 22, 2010)

The mode skipping is a side effect of the way mode switching works. Even intermittent contact will cause the light to switch modes, so if you aren't twisting it "purposefully" and firmly you will cause a mode skip.

In any case I have been carrying my MiNi lately and I have really taken to it. I love this little light.


----------



## pobox1475 (Feb 22, 2010)

Got a warm AA Ti. Skipped modes has not been an issue to me. It probably happens, but am happy as long as I have illumination when I want it. Threads are a little tight even with a good cleaning and NyoGel. Will see a lot of pocket time once weather starts to warm and I get my suspension clip http://www.jsburlysflashlights.com/cgi-bin/ccp51//cp-app.cgi?usr=51I8007914&rnd=1622841&rrc=N&affl=&cip=67.162.27.157&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=tecaccessoriedp7clip&cat=keychainitems&catstr=HOME:keychainitems


----------



## lostinwv (Feb 22, 2010)

carrot said:


> The mode skipping is a side effect of the way mode switching works. Even intermittent contact will cause the light to switch modes, so if you aren't twisting it "purposefully" and firmly you will cause a mode skip.
> 
> In any case I have been carrying my MiNi lately and I have really taken to it. I love this little light.



I'm no expert on mode switching technology, but I can tell you that I have had two Quark MiNi 123 lights - one had the mode skipping problem BAD, and the other is absolutely perfect.

With the "bad" one, I couldn't NOT have skipping issues, and with the "good" one, I can't get it to skip modes no matter what I do. Take that for what it is worth.

Dave


----------



## secarob (Feb 22, 2010)

Have had mine for about a week. Works great, It's an outstanding flashlight. I plan to pick one up for my dad


----------



## Blackbeard (Feb 22, 2010)

In bigchelis thread on actual lumens rating, Mini 123 came up almost 50 lumens short of specs. Any thoughts on this???


----------



## Dan FO (Feb 22, 2010)

Blackbeard said:


> In bigchelis thread on actual lumens rating, Mini 123 came up almost 50 lumens short of specs. Any thoughts on this???



Do you have a link?


----------



## PeaceOfMind (Feb 22, 2010)

Blackbeard said:


> In bigchelis thread on actual lumens rating, Mini 123 came up almost 50 lumens short of specs. Any thoughts on this???




I think it was later discussed in that thread or somewhere earlier here that the batteries used in that tests were questionable. There was a bit of discussion about it somewhere, not sure what the consensus was.


----------



## Blackbeard (Feb 22, 2010)

Dan FO said:


> Do you have a link?


 
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/260659

I didnt read any of those other threads regarding battery, so I dont know the verdict.

I do know that my mini123 has very similar output to nitecore ez123 which is 180 lumens,


----------



## windstrings (Feb 23, 2010)

I gave my Nitecore away, but as I remember the Mini123 is more floody than the EZ and has the same throw...... so the mini is better IMO.


----------



## kaichu dento (Feb 23, 2010)

pobox1475 said:


> Got a warm AA Ti. Skipped modes has not been an issue to me. It probably happens, but am happy as long as I have illumination when I want it. Threads are a little tight even with a good cleaning and NyoGel. Will see a lot of pocket time once weather starts to warm and I get my suspension clip


I keep wanting to get some of these too, but I wish they had them in AlTiN! :twothumbs


----------



## Raymond3 (Feb 23, 2010)

AlphaZen said:


> I have been using a 14500 in my Mini AA with no problems. It is incredible and I recommend it. Just don't leave it on high for long periods, especially out of hand. The low stays low, the medium gets bumped up to a very usable level and the high is just incredibly bright. Actually, it doesn't even heat up in your hand very fast. Just note that 4Sevens has changed their stance and no longer supports this.


 
I've been using a mini AA warm, a white and a ti white for several months on the 14500 and my experience is the same as above. No problems at all if left on high for only a reasonable amount of time.

One more thing that I am really enjoying about the mini AA is that I am able to use up the unused portions of both AA and AAA batteries that are "dead" for use in a camera, or remote, incans, or lots of other things. The light provides both low and medium (not high though), at somewhat reduced levels, but perfect for night use inside the home, and esp as a bathroom night light. It is amazing how long a "dead" battery will provide light on one of these effecient XPG-R5 LEDs.


----------



## vali (Feb 23, 2010)

Same here... I am almost unable to get rid of some alkies I have with my MiNi AAw and my K-106. They are "too efficient", lol.

A buddy gave me 6 "dead" cells a while ago and I got some more with the lights itself, plus some more I had around. The bad thing about saving my NiMH is that I am too worried about leaking and keep checking the lights constantly . At least those flashlights are not that expensive, but I like them both a lot.


----------



## Zendude (Feb 23, 2010)

Raymond3 said:


> One more thing that I am really enjoying about the mini AA is that I am able to use up the unused portions of both AA and AAA batteries that are "dead" for use in a camera, or remote, incans, or lots of other things. The light provides both low and medium (not high though), at somewhat reduced levels, but perfect for night use inside the home, and esp as a bathroom night light. It is amazing how long a "dead" battery will provide light on one of these effecient XPG-R5 LEDs.




+1:thumbsup:

Am I right in assuming it's the lower Vf that makes this possible? The runtime nut in me is very pleased with the performance of the xp-g in this regard. Seems everybody is to busy bitching about the tint to notice though. 

Would this be considered a bad thing for rechargeable batteries?:thinking:


----------



## AlphaZen (Feb 23, 2010)

Zendude said:


> Would this be considered a bad thing for rechargeable batteries?:thinking:


I am curious about this too.


----------



## applevision (Feb 23, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> I keep wanting to get some of these too, but I wish they had them in AlTiN! :twothumbs



*Kaichu*! I had to pull trigger on two of those clips! Soooo cool!!

Thanks, man!


----------



## kaichu dento (Feb 24, 2010)

applevision said:


> *Kaichu*! I had to pull trigger on two of those clips! Soooo cool!!
> 
> Thanks, man!


There's a few items like these that I keep wanting to buy but never getting around to.


----------



## gbelleh (Feb 24, 2010)

The suspension clips are great for the Minis. I use one for my Mini 123, and it's perfect! :twothumbs


----------



## pobox1475 (Feb 24, 2010)

As much as I want one of those Ti or SS McGizmo clips I have been not been willing to accept them due to reports of accidental openings. Being an avid fisherman I'm surprised I did not consider these sooner. Light, simple and secure...


----------



## schofer (Feb 24, 2010)

AlphaZen said:


> I have been using a 14500 in my Mini AA with no problems. It is incredible and I recommend it. Just don't leave it on high for long periods, especially out of hand. The low stays low, the medium gets bumped up to a very usable level and the high is just incredibly bright. Actually, it doesn't even heat up in your hand very fast. Just note that 4Sevens has changed their stance and no longer supports this.



+1

I switched to a 14500 on my mini AA and I LOVE it. The 3 different modes on a 14500 fit my needs much better, compared to alkaline or energizer lithium AAs. 

On standard AAs the performance was OK, but lackluster. I wasn't using it much, despite the great form factor and build quality, but now I absolutely love it. The improved performance is definitely worth any (small) potential risks of overheating or shortened lifespan, to me anyway.

Schofer


----------



## Joe Talmadge (Feb 24, 2010)

I agree also. I'm running IMRs in mine, minding the temperature (but it doesn't get hot very fast), enjoying the light a whole lot more this way. I usually run it in medium anyway, low and hi are just occasional


----------



## Andyy (Feb 24, 2010)

Awesome, my mini AA with neutral LED shipped yesterday, can't wait to receive it


----------



## Blackbeard (Feb 24, 2010)

Anyone else able to turn their 123 on high mode with one twist? I noticed it flashes sometimes when you push on the side of the head.....2 pushes and 1 twist and your on high.

Not designed for this but it works if you dont have the head screwed too far out.


----------



## PCC (Feb 25, 2010)

Zendude said:


> +1:thumbsup:
> 
> Am I right in assuming it's the lower Vf that makes this possible? The runtime nut in me is very pleased with the performance of the xp-g in this regard. Seems everybody is to busy bitching about the tint to notice though.
> 
> Would this be considered a bad thing for rechargeable batteries?:thinking:


I'm certainly no expert on this, but, from what I understand, you don't want to run your NiMH cells below 0.8VDC. I've noticed that my NiMH cells are at about 0.8V when the high and medium modes look about the same in terms of brightness. When it gets close I charge my battery. Then again, the single NiMH cell that I've been using in my MiNi AA is about 8 years old and is probably overdue to be disposed of properly.


----------



## psychbeat (Feb 26, 2010)

Ive been lashing my mini123alum to the one of the brake 
master cylinders on my mountain bike with two zip ties (works perfectly) 
tonight I was riding a long super tech down hill trail and needed
the blast mode (rcr123) for the full duration to supplement my
HL. I sprayed it with water from my camelback for some DIY FAUX ACTIVE
THERMAL MANAGEMENT and it stayed on high for the full 15 min or
so no problem. even with the cheapo ultrafire. the knurling traps a bit of water so it dosent all bead up. not sure if its any help or just voodoo YMMV for sure! just thought u guys might get a kick outta that.
I know I did.:candle:


----------



## applevision (Feb 26, 2010)

psychbeat said:


> Ive been lashing my mini123alum to the one of the brake
> master cylinders on my mountain bike with two zip ties (works perfectly)
> tonight I was riding a long super tech down hill trail and needed
> the blast mode (rcr123) for the full duration to supplement my
> ...



Awesome!! Can you post a photo of the setup? This is fantastic real-world use. I love your DIY Faux Active Thermal Management! Nice!


----------



## psychbeat (Feb 26, 2010)

yeah I need to get a photobucket acct so I can post.
Ill do it later tonight.
ZIP TIES might be close to surpassing duct tape as the ULTIMATE
survival tool 

I always have an assortment in my car bag or camelpak


----------



## HeyGuysWatchThis (Feb 27, 2010)

psychbeat said:


> yeah I need to get a photobucket acct so I can post.
> Ill do it later tonight.
> ZIP TIES might be close to surpassing duct tape as the ULTIMATE
> survival tool
> ...


 
Yeah! :twothumbs Zip ties FTW!!!


----------



## psychbeat (Feb 27, 2010)

sorry, the pics are with a bberry and kinda suck but you get the idea!
the only thing with zipties is you have to get the angle right using shims
or just finding the right spot and then commit to that angle- or go thru a bunch til you get er right.


----------



## burntoshine (Feb 27, 2010)

i love zip ties! the only problem is that you have to cut the zip ties off if you want the light off of the bike and use new ones to put the light back on.

these are a much better way to go in my opinion. only $7.49, or you can buy the 3-pack for $15.99. 

they're rubber with velcro straps; very sturdy. the only con is that you can't adjust the beam left or right, but i don't care because they aim straight ahead and that's where i want the light pointed anyway.

i have them and they work great. i use one for my wife's bike. i bought the 3-pack. gave one to my buddy. on my bike though, i have the dosun M1 bike light; that thing rules!


----------



## kaichu dento (Feb 27, 2010)

burntoshine said:


> i love zip ties! the only problem is that you have to cut the zip ties off if you want the light off of the bike and use new ones to put the light back on.
> 
> these are a much better way to go in my opinion. only $7.49, or you can buy the 3-pack for $15.99.
> 
> ...


That's definitely the better way to go, but just for what it's worth, I reuse zip ties all the time. There are multiple use zip ties available, but even the ones that aren't can be released using the tip of your knife blade. Just be careful not to slip and you'll seldom 'need' to throw them away again.


----------



## psychbeat (Feb 27, 2010)

yeah I use a mini screwdriver to release the zipties sometimes.
theyre like 3$ for a million of em 
Ive been looking at those velcro ones on the 7777 website and
might get a few my only reservation is that theyre kinda bulky looking.
I run riser bars so if it was mounted on the riser area its diagonal so
you could adjust the beam a bit more. I like it about 4 ft in front of my tire.
xpg is pretty much perfect for this beam wise. Im so stoked on my little 123mini! I wish there were an 18650 tube for it tho :huh::huh:


----------



## burntoshine (Feb 27, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> I reuse zip ties all the time. There are multiple use zip ties available, but even the ones that aren't can be released using the tip of your knife blade. Just be careful not to slip and you'll seldom 'need' to throw them away again.





psychbeat said:


> yeah I use a mini screwdriver to release the zipties sometimes.



neat! i never really tried to reuse them, but that makes perfect sense. i've seen the reusable kind, too. i guess since they're so cheap, i never thought about reusing them; i guess i'm guilty of having a typical consumer mind-set. 

lovecpf

p.s. in my opinion, the 7777 bike mount things aren't too bulky at all. it's a very simple, straight forward design.


----------



## burntoshine (Feb 27, 2010)

so are the neutral white Minis extinct now? i don't see them anywhere on the site.

i have 4 neutral white Minis (2 NW AAs, a NW 123 and a Ti NW 123)

i just ordered a cool white 123 Mini; i want to compare it to my NW 123.

are the cool whites really a lot brighter than the neutrals?

well i guess i'll find out monday either way. maybe i'll go try to find that one cool/neutral comparison thread.


----------



## carrot (Feb 27, 2010)

burntoshine said:


> are the cool whites really a lot brighter than the neutrals?



Yes, they make the neutrals look kind of dim.


----------



## LeifUK (Feb 27, 2010)

burntoshine said:


> these are a much better way to go in my opinion. only $7.49, or you can buy the 3-pack for $15.99.



You can buy those, and the Fenix bike mount, for a fraction of the price from DX.


----------



## vali (Feb 27, 2010)

burntoshine said:


> so are the neutral white Minis extinct now?



Extint? they are alive, at least mine. I would say better "they are in good hands now"


----------



## kaichu dento (Feb 27, 2010)

burntoshine said:


> neat! i never really tried to reuse them, but that makes perfect sense. i've seen the reusable kind, too. i guess since they're so cheap, i never thought about reusing them; i guess i'm guilty of having a typical consumer mind-set.
> 
> lovecpf
> 
> p.s. in my opinion, the 7777 bike mount things aren't too bulky at all. it's a very simple, straight forward design.


I've just always had a thing about throwing things away, even before it became politically correct. 


burntoshine said:


> so are the neutral white Minis extinct now? i don't see them anywhere on the site.
> 
> i have 4 neutral white Minis (2 NW AAs, a NW 123 and a Ti NW 123)
> 
> ...


I have 7 MiNi's, 2 of which are cool and I don't find there to be much of a difference in actual usage other than the xp-g looking brighter in some settings.


carrot said:


> Yes, they make the neutrals look kind of dim.


I don't think they make them look dim at all, unless comparing in an area that is not completely dark.


vali said:


> Extint? they are alive, at least mine. I would say better "they are in good hands now"


That's what I say too!


----------



## eala (Feb 27, 2010)

pobox1475 said:


> Got a warm AA Ti. Skipped modes has not been an issue to me. It probably happens, but am happy as long as I have illumination when I want it. Threads are a little tight even with a good cleaning and NyoGel. Will see a lot of pocket time once weather starts to warm and I get my suspension clip http://www.jsburlysflashlights.com/cgi-bin/ccp51//cp-app.cgi?usr=51I8007914&rnd=1622841&rrc=N&affl=&cip=67.162.27.157&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=tecaccessoriedp7clip&cat=keychainitems&catstr=HOME:keychainitems





applevision said:


> *Kaichu*! I had to pull trigger on two of those clips! Soooo cool!!
> 
> Thanks, man!



Just so you know, these clips are also available at 
http://www.tecaccessories.com/

I think the shipping is a bit cheaper. I paid about $3 to Canada.

This is the only way the MiniAA feels comfortable in my pocket.

eala


----------



## Andyy (Mar 1, 2010)

burntoshine said:


> so are the neutral white Minis extinct now? i don't see them anywhere on the site.


Seems the Polish site still has them.
At least, I ordered one last week, received a normal white version. I have contacted them today and they told me to send it back and they will send me a neutral white one.


----------



## Andyy (Mar 1, 2010)

I received a wrong version today but I've played with it today, I really like it but the output can be brighter (well, there are some 14500s on the way)


----------



## burntoshine (Mar 1, 2010)

man, the cool white version is not really much brighter than the neutral white version. the cool white version is a little bit brighter, but not by much; and yeah, mine has a weird green tint.

i knew there was a reason i stick with neutral white; not sure what i'm gonna do with this light now. maybe someone i know has a birthday coming...


----------



## jsholli (Mar 2, 2010)

Yeah, most 'normal' people are still under the impression that bright lights have to be tinted blue...if the green tint isn't overpowering, you may really blow someone away with this one!


----------



## windstrings (Mar 2, 2010)

The blue tint is the same frequency our brain associates really bright lights... like arc welders, lightening etc.. but in reality blue cast less lumens than the same wattage in a lower kelvin such as white or even into yellow... however then it becomes a game of which frequency our eye picks up the best...

Green is actually the sweet spot for what the eye can see.

Same is true in lasers, green will always 'appear" brighter to the human eye for a given wattage than any of the others.


----------



## was.lost.but.now.found (Mar 2, 2010)

While it would be nice, you can't have a watt for watt comparison b/c the warm leds have a greater amount of phosphor, blocking usable light. My presonal preference is not toward warms leds anyway; neutral white is nice.


----------



## windstrings (Mar 2, 2010)

was.lost.but.now.found said:


> While it would be nice, you can't have a watt for watt comparison b/c the warm leds have a greater amount of phosphor, blocking usable light. My presonal preference is not toward warms leds anyway; neutral white is nice.



Ah yes, your right..good point


----------



## was.lost.but.now.found (Mar 2, 2010)

Psychbeat, can you put a carriage return in between your two pictures? Thanks!!


----------



## psychbeat (Mar 2, 2010)

hmm I tried but it deleted one of the pics.
no big deal theyre pretty sucky pics anyways


----------



## recDNA (Mar 2, 2010)

windstrings said:


> The blue tint is the same frequency our brain associates really bright lights... like arc welders, lightening etc.. but in reality blue cast less lumens than the same wattage in a lower kelvin such as white or even into yellow... however then it becomes a game of which frequency our eye picks up the best...
> 
> Green is actually the sweet spot for what the eye can see.
> 
> Same is true in lasers, green will always 'appear" brighter to the human eye for a given wattage than any of the others.


 

Green is ugly. Can I use that word that is a nastier way of saying sips?


----------



## recDNA (Mar 2, 2010)

jsholli said:


> Yeah, most 'normal' people are still under the impression that bright lights have to be tinted blue...if the green tint isn't overpowering, you may really blow someone away with this one!


 
The slightest green or yellow makes me want to puke (especially if I've spent more than $2 for the flashlight)


----------



## kaichu dento (Mar 2, 2010)

recDNA said:


> The slightest green or yellow makes me want to puke (especially if I've spent more than $2 for the flashlight)


Yeah, green is no good, but as long as the yellow is not too strong I don't mind it.


----------



## joshconsulting (Mar 2, 2010)

Anyone know when neutral\warm XP-Gs will hit the quarks? It's the only thing holding me back...

That and the fact that my RCRs from DX will take a few weeks to get here. But I could probably milk the primary that comes with the Quark that long.


----------



## windstrings (Mar 2, 2010)

OK.. let me get this straight... green is puke and yellow green is yellow puke... its that about it?


----------



## carrot (Mar 2, 2010)

No, you forgot that there's also blue puke and purple puke.


----------



## burntoshine (Mar 2, 2010)

cool white LEDs make me feel like i have ghost vision; and then i ghost puke.


----------



## NutSAK (Mar 2, 2010)

windstrings said:


> OK.. let me get this straight... green is puke and yellow green is yellow puke... its that about it?



I've heard green referred to as squid urine. :thinking:


----------



## gbelleh (Mar 2, 2010)

I don't mind a little bit of green or yellow, but I can't stand blue or purple tints. 

My Mini 123 is a bit green, but I still like it.


----------



## windstrings (Mar 2, 2010)

NutSAK said:


> I've heard green referred to as squid urine. :thinking:




As long as it glows, i'll drink it!


----------



## kaichu dento (Mar 3, 2010)

gbelleh said:


> I don't mind a little bit of green or yellow, but I can't stand blue or purple tints.
> 
> My Mini 123 is a bit green, but I still like it.


I prefer warmer tints, but have a couple slightly blue lights that I like because they remind me of moonlight. :kiss:


windstrings said:


> As long as it glows, i'll drink it!


Bleah! :sick2:

Weirdo! :laughing:


----------



## Monocrom (Mar 3, 2010)

burntoshine said:


> cool white LEDs make me feel like i have ghost vision; and then i ghost puke.


 
Warm tints make me feel like I'm looking at things during the last few moments of a setting Sun.


----------



## toughCookie (Mar 3, 2010)

Could anyone tell me how does the MiniAA compare with the iTP A2 EOS R2? 
Apologies if this has been discussed before or if its in the wrong thread 

Cheers


----------



## windstrings (Mar 3, 2010)

Monocrom said:


> Warm tints make me feel like I'm looking at things during the last few moments of a setting Sun.




Yes, and its scientific fact that lower lumen outputs process better in the brain because thats what we are accustomed to as the sun sets.
Its very comfortable, pleasing, and our eyes interpret accuratly under those conditions.

But when the lumen output is intense the higher kelvins work better IE: 4200K to 5000K.... you get above that and your going for special effects and its hard for the brain to understand what it sees.... "shadows, rocks or a small animal or object on the road verses an oil stain etc".

I personally think higher kelvins into the blue and purples are fine for hand-held lights if that what someone wants but for headlights its distracting, irritating, and a bit more dangerous for the user as well as the other views IMHO.

But since we are talking keychain lights here, the warm is nice!.... you wouldn't think you would like it till you try it.


----------



## Monocrom (Mar 3, 2010)

I'll admit that I like my warm-tinted Malkoff MC-E M60 version. Then again, it pumps out about 470 lumens out the front. 

Warm is fine . . . 

As long as you pump up the lumens!


----------



## Quension (Mar 3, 2010)

I find a neutral tint more useful for a keychain light because of how it reflects off of colored text and diagrams. It's easier to read maps because of the increased contrast over cooler tints.


----------



## Zendude (Mar 3, 2010)

toughCookie said:


> Could anyone tell me how does the MiniAA compare with the iTP A2 EOS R2?
> Apologies if this has been discussed before or if its in the wrong thread
> 
> Cheers


They talk about the A2 here https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/263426. Pretty much the same light with different bells and whistles. Smaller hot spot, a clip but not as grippy.


----------



## toughCookie (Mar 4, 2010)

Zendude said:


> They talk about the A2 here https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/263426. Pretty much the same light with different bells and whistles. Smaller hot spot, a clip but not as grippy.


 
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I've been reading up on the iTP A2. I can't really see much different apart from one uese XP-E and the other XP-G. But what the big price difference?
iTP = $25
Mini = $39

Is the Mini worth the extra $14?? :shrug:


----------



## Woods Walker (Mar 4, 2010)

toughCookie said:


> Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I've been reading up on the iTP A2. I can't really see much different apart from one uese XP-E and the other XP-G. But what the big price difference?
> iTP = $25
> Mini = $39
> 
> Is the Mini worth the extra $14?? :shrug:


 
I believe they are all made by ITP as played around with the A2 and now own a Mini AAw. Just too much alike in so many ways not to be the same. I prefer the Mini as it can tail stand and can be had in warm or higher Bin LEDs. Both the ITP and Mini are easy to work with one hand. Both are great lights so yea gotta work out if the extra 14 bucks is worth it.


----------



## HeyGuysWatchThis (Mar 4, 2010)

Woods Walker said:


> I believe they are all made by ITP as played around with the A2 and now own a Mini AAw. Just too much alike in so many ways not to be the same. I prefer the Mini as it can tail stand and can be had in warm or higher Bin LEDs. Both the ITP and Mini are easy to work with one hand. Both are great lights so yea gotta work out if the extra 14 bucks is worth it.


 
It's not really $14 difference, because 4sevens includes the shipping. I checked, and for me, the difference with shipping and the CPF discount is only about $3.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Mar 4, 2010)

HeyGuysWatchThis said:


> It's not really $14 difference, because 4sevens includes the shipping. I checked, and for me, the difference with shipping and the CPF discount is only about $3.



That's exactly why I ordered the QMini AA for my brother a couple days ago. Tail standing and 4Seven's service for essentially the same price.

Geoff


----------



## ikelo (Mar 5, 2010)

I received my mini 123 today. I am very pleased. The threads seem the same as my P1D-Q5, and I wouldn't describe either as being loose.

I bought this as a replacement for my P1D-Q5, which has developed a light flickering on the high mode.

The P1D-Q5 is a nice cool white, the mini123 is more of a yellow color, but I am fine with the tint. I'm very happy with the light. Quality seems on par with the P1D.


----------



## Woods Walker (Mar 7, 2010)

HeyGuysWatchThis said:


> It's not really $14 difference, because 4sevens includes the shipping. I checked, and for me, the difference with shipping and the CPF discount is only about $3.


 
Yup 4-SEVENS offers 8% (CPF8) off to CPF and free shipping to everyone so mine was around 35.88. Price 39.00 minus 8% 3.12 + 0 for shipping = 35.88.

Going gear offers a 10% discount ggcpf10. The A2 is 24.95 minus 10% = 22.95, order 49+ of stuff shipping is free but to be fair lets say the order is only for the A2. The shipping is listed as 2.24 (same shipping method as 4SEVENS.) so the total would be 25.19. 

So the differance with discounts on both lights is 10.69. If yea get the free shipping by adding some items to the order it would be 12.93. My math could be off but believe if the Quark is only 3 bucks more someone paid way too much for the ITP A2.

All that being said for me the Mini was worth the extra (whatever) as it had the LED and features I wanted.I gave an A2 away as a gift and it was kinda nice too.


----------



## Stinger171 (Mar 7, 2010)

Why wife is very pleased with her quark Mini AA:thumbsup:.


----------



## vali (Mar 7, 2010)

Woods Walker said:


> Yup 4-SEVENS offers 8% (CPF8) off to CPF and free shipping to everyone so mine was around 35.88. Price 39.00 minus 8% 3.12 + 0 for shipping = 35.88.
> 
> Going gear offers a 10% discount ggcpf10. The A2 is 24.95 minus 10% = 22.95, order 49+ of stuff shipping is free but to be fair lets say the order is only for the A2. The shipping is listed as 2.24 (same shipping method as 4SEVENS.) so the total would be 25.19.
> 
> ...



Shipping here is 6.48. But I agree, ITP in GG is cheaper than the MiNi (but I LOVE my MiNi AA nw). You can get save a bit more if you bout another one, like the A3 SS, wich I will do sooner than later


----------



## strinq (Mar 7, 2010)

Just joined the club! Finally!
Still blown away by its output with a 3.7v RCR123...
Crazy awesome...


----------



## Flying Turtle (Mar 7, 2010)

Got the one I ordered for my brother and the tint is just fine. Now I've seen three Mini's and none have seemed too green. Maybe I've just been lucky, but I wouldn't worry if this is a concern for anyone still holding back.

Geoff


----------



## ky70 (Mar 8, 2010)

Flying Turtle said:


> Got the one I ordered for my brother and the tint is just fine. Now I've seen three Mini's and none have seemed too green. Maybe I've just been lucky, but I wouldn't worry if this is a concern for anyone still holding back.
> 
> Geoff


 
I have 1 mini 123 and when I started using I wondered what all the green talk was about as I didn't see any green BUT when I compared the beam to other beams (Lumapower Incendio, Akoray 106...) I could clearly see the green tint. It's not a big deal for me but it is noticeable...especially when compared to other lights.


----------



## Dude Dudeson (Mar 8, 2010)

If I compare my mini to my M-60 it seems a bit green, and the M-60 seems a bit blue.

If I run either one by itself they both look perfectly white (well, M-60 looks a bit whiter due to the brighter hotspot).

I don't know what all the fuss is about, considering this is a cheap light that's sized for a keychain. Does it let me see things? Yes, and amazingly well.

It's not like I'm going to go into a police career and depend on it for duty - really, I'd have to suggest that anyone who had an actual reason to worry about the tint of the Q Mini is looking at the wrong light in the first place for their purposes...


----------



## fisk-king (Mar 8, 2010)

just received my Mini AA neutral (thanks Kaichu:wave can't wait to use this tonite.


----------



## toughCookie (Mar 8, 2010)

HeyGuysWatchThis said:


> It's not really $14 difference, because 4sevens includes the shipping. I checked, and for me, the difference with shipping and the CPF discount is only about $3.


 
:duh2: really, $3 I think my maths is letting me down .



Woods Walker said:


> Yup 4-SEVENS offers 8% (CPF8) off to CPF and free shipping to everyone so mine was around 35.88. Price 39.00 minus 8% 3.12 + 0 for shipping = 35.88.
> 
> Going gear offers a 10% discount ggcpf10. The A2 is 24.95 minus 10% = 22.95, order 49+ of stuff shipping is free but to be fair lets say the order is only for the A2. The shipping is listed as 2.24 (same shipping method as 4SEVENS.) so the total would be 25.19.
> 
> ...


 


vali said:


> Shipping here is 6.48. But I agree, ITP in GG is cheaper than the MiNi (but I LOVE my MiNi AA nw). You can get save a bit more if you bout another one, like the A3 SS, wich I will do sooner than later


 
I thought my maths wasn't that bad. So the difference is about $10... about £6ish. 

Thanks for all the help and relies guys. lovecpf
Reading up on the reviews, it seems both the iTP A2 and Mini AA has great rep and highly recommended. So, I'm torn between the two...think the mini may have persuaded me though...:shrug:


----------



## kaichu dento (Mar 8, 2010)

fisk-king said:


> just received my Mini AA neutral (thanks Kaichu:wave can't wait to use this tonite.


Wow, the USPS tracking still comes up blank, but you've already got the light?!? That's good news though, and I've got some more for you - predicted dark starting this evening and probably lasting until sometime early tomorrow!


----------



## houtex (Mar 8, 2010)

I took an o-ring from an L0D and used it on my mini123. The Fenix o-ring is smaller but thicker and the head is not as loose and there is no accidently skipping of modes. I feel more confident about pocket carry now and that the head won't unscrew itself from the tail.


----------



## Scuderia (Mar 10, 2010)

Hi, newbie here. Anyone tried momentarily switching on your mini by pressing down the bezel in off position? Its faster than twisting it 6 times to reach the hidden modes. Will it damage the flashlight? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## jsholli (Mar 11, 2010)

Scuderia said:


> Hi, newbie here. Anyone tried momentarily switching on your mini by pressing down the bezel in off position? Its faster than twisting it 6 times to reach the hidden modes. Will it damage the flashlight? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.


 
Yes, this practice is mentioned in this post and again here. It is quite helpfull and due to the nature of LEDs, the practice shouldn't be any different than actually twisting the head to make contact...


----------



## was.lost.but.now.found (Mar 11, 2010)

Scuderia said:


> Hi, newbie here. Anyone tried momentarily switching on your mini by pressing down the bezel in off position? Its faster than twisting it 6 times to reach the hidden modes. Will it damage the flashlight? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.


 
It's actually likely to be less damaging than twisting because you are eliminating the friction which in the long run with enough use would cause wear on the threads and contact plates.


----------



## tsask (Mar 11, 2010)

Happy with my titanium Mini 123.
I only wish the attachment hole was a little larger.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Mar 11, 2010)

Welcome to CPF, Scuderia. You'll find the bezel press trick works with just about every twisty type light to varying degrees. In theory the better the light the less thread slop you'll see.

Geoff


----------



## flasherByNight (Mar 11, 2010)

was.lost.but.now.found said:


> It's actually likely to be less damaging than twisting because you are eliminating the friction which in the long run with enough use would cause wear on the threads and contact plates.



dunno if I buy that


----------



## mfm (Mar 11, 2010)

toughCookie said:


> I thought my maths wasn't that bad. So the difference is about $10... about £6ish.


If you are in UK then the import taxes and fees for the Mini will be a lot more...


----------



## was.lost.but.now.found (Mar 11, 2010)

flasherByNight said:


> dunno if I buy that


 
Just a hypothesis. What's yours?


----------



## pobox1475 (Mar 11, 2010)

> I only wish the attachment hole was a little larger.


 Why?


----------



## flasherByNight (Mar 11, 2010)

was.lost.but.now.found said:


> Just a hypothesis. What's yours?



the opposite 

It seems to me squashing down on the head squashes ALL the threads....seems more detrimental to me


----------



## Nake (Mar 11, 2010)

flasherByNight said:


> the opposite
> 
> It seems to me squashing down on the head squashes ALL the threads....seems more detrimental to me


 
That's the way I see it too. Aluminum is soft, could make the threads even more sloppy if done a lot.


----------



## burntoshine (Mar 11, 2010)

actually, to get the least amount of friction, you should turn the body and not the head.


----------



## Zendude (Mar 11, 2010)

Nake said:


> That's the way I see it too. Aluminum is soft, could make the threads even more sloppy if done a lot.



Not if the threads are anodized. Seriously, you're hardly applying any pressure when you use this method. 



burntoshine said:


> actually, to get the least amount of friction, you should turn the body and not the head.



:thinking:


You can kinda see from this pic that the contact plate is already showing some friction wear at the outside edge...and yes, I did try to take the LE out. You should see the gouge at the other hole.:mecry:Eventually the contact will wear away. The contact area is already minimal because of the thinness of the battery tube. 

You can place me in the "press to switch modes" camp.


----------



## carrot (Mar 11, 2010)

I'm curious, has anyone ever had threads or a contact plate actually wear out on a light? Because it seems to me to be more of a theoretical problem than an actual one...


----------



## Zendude (Mar 11, 2010)

I thought my e01 was going to be the first to wear out(it was wearing through on the corners) but alas...it appears to have wandered off...:sigh: So for me the answer is no.

I don't want to be the one that says yes to your question and I feel that fewer twists will improve the life of the pcb. So why not? Just thinking long term.


----------



## burntoshine (Mar 11, 2010)

burntoshine said:


> actually, to get the least amount of friction, you should turn the body and not the head.





Zendude said:


> :thinking:



i was jus' bein' silly.

there's some weird grooves on the contact plate on my NW Ti MiNi 123; they were already there when i got it. ...very odd; it's like someone took a wrench to the circuit board or something...











...also, the knurling is different on either side of the head on my Ti MiNi. it's more pointy on one side and flatter on the other; very uneven. 

i guess my MiNi's an oddball.

...not only that, but it mode skips about 30% of the time.


----------



## vali (Mar 11, 2010)

I am not afraid of the threads wearing with time... That's the reason lube exists


----------



## Scuderia (Mar 11, 2010)

jsholli said:


> Yes, this practice is mentioned in this post and again here. It is quite helpfull and due to the nature of LEDs, the practice shouldn't be any different than actually twisting the head to make contact...




Opps. Sorry, should had hit the search button a few more times. Thanks for the assurance.



Flying Turtle said:


> Welcome to CPF, Scuderia. You'll find the bezel press trick works with just about every twisty type light to varying degrees. In theory the better the light the less thread slop you'll see.
> 
> Geoff



Thanks for the tip and the warm welcome, Geoff.


----------



## tsask (Mar 11, 2010)

pobox1475 said:


> Why?


 
The attachment ring hole is very TINY. miniscule. It could take a pair of tweezers/toothpick and a magnifing glass or a jeweler to attach.


----------



## PapaGary (Mar 11, 2010)

Scuderia said:


> Hi, newbie here. Anyone tried momentarily switching on your mini by pressing down the bezel in off position? Its faster than twisting it 6 times to reach the hidden modes. Will it damage the flashlight? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.


***WARNING - First Post!***
Wow, my MiNi AA doesn't do this. Should I be worried?


----------



## carrot (Mar 12, 2010)

PapaGary said:


> ***WARNING - First Post!***
> Wow, my MiNi AA doesn't do this. Should I be worried?


It's nothing to worry about. Your mini is normal.


----------



## Lite_me (Mar 12, 2010)

carrot said:


> I'm curious, has anyone ever had threads or a contact plate actually wear out on a light? Because it seems to me to be more of a theoretical problem than an actual one...


I remember seeing a post with a pic quite awhile back showing the +pos contact had worn through on the board. Not completely, but in a sweeping area. I of coarse don't remember the brand of light. The poster stated he just tinned it with a bit of solder and it should last for awhile.


----------



## kaichu dento (Mar 12, 2010)

tsask said:


> The attachment ring hole is very TINY. miniscule. It could take a pair of tweezers/toothpick and a magnifing glass or a jeweler to attach.


It was an oversight to make the attachment hole so TINY, as you put it. Much as I love the MiNi's, the hole being too small is one of the main reasons my EZAAw is still in my back pocket instead of it's planned replacement.


----------



## 4sevens (Mar 12, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> It was an oversight...


I was not an oversight. It was by design. Enlarging it would lengthen the Qmini which was unacceptable according to our design goals. The Qmini's are designed to be as small as possible.


----------



## kaichu dento (Mar 12, 2010)

4sevens said:


> I was not an oversight. It was by design. Enlarging it would lengthen the Qmini which was unacceptable according to our design goals. The Qmini's are designed to be as small as possible.


It may not have been oversight from your design perspective, but from a users perspective it would have been much better to have had the extra few millimeters of length and had a more user friendly design and would still be shorter than the EZAA. 

They are winners as is, but I think your design goals would benefit from enough flexibility to keep user friendliness in the spotlight.


----------



## bondr006 (Mar 12, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> It may not have been oversight from your design perspective, but from a users perspective it would have been much better to have had the extra few millimeters of length



Not from this users perspective. The Mini's design is perfect just the way it is. It took me all of two seconds to put a quality split ring in the hole on my 123....and I'm old and wear glasses.


----------



## kaichu dento (Mar 12, 2010)

bondr006 said:


> Not from this users perspective. The Mini's design is perfect just the way it is. It took me all of two seconds to put a quality split ring in the hole on my 123....and I'm old and wear glasses.


Nice looking setup you have and I'm glad you don't mind the extra split rings as much as some of the rest of us do. I would love to be able to thread some gutted paracord through there without the split rings. 

Oddly enough I just noticed that the hole on my tiny Draco is incrementally larger than the ones on my MiNi's. I'm also disappointed at David's attitude towards those of us who have any suggestions that his lights might not be perfect, especially when you consider that were are buying them and are in no way trashing them.


----------



## toughCookie (Mar 12, 2010)

mfm said:


> If you are in UK then the import taxes and fees for the Mini will be a lot more...


 
Yep, I'm from the UK. Where would you recommend I purchase flashlights like the Mini AA Quark and itp SA2? :candle:


----------



## bondr006 (Mar 12, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> Nice looking setup you have and I'm glad you don't mind the extra split rings as much as some of the rest of us do. I would love to be able to thread some gutted paracord through there without the split rings.
> 
> Oddly enough I just noticed that the hole on my tiny Draco is incrementally larger than the ones on my MiNi's. I'm also disappointed at David's attitude towards those of us who have any suggestions that his lights might not be perfect, especially when you consider that were are buying them and are in no way trashing them.



Thank you kd. You are very right and everyone is certainly entitled to their own opinion. I apologize for taking an offensive tone towards you in my earlier post. Sometimes our enthusiasm blinds us to others likes and dislikes when they conflict with our own.....which is still no excuse on my part.


----------



## 4sevens (Mar 12, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> I'm also disappointed at David's attitude towards those of us who have any suggestions that his lights might not be perfect,


kaichu, I think you're mistaken again. I always take in feedback and consider all feedback as important. I was simply correcting the error in your statement that it was an OVERSIGHT. My point was, we considered everything and didn't forget something as you tried to point out. Your suggestion was welcome and always will be. That's my attitude. But if there is a wrong statement especially about us, I am compelled to correct it. Fair enough?


----------



## kaichu dento (Mar 12, 2010)

bondr006 said:


> Thank you kd. You are very right and everyone is certainly entitled to their own opinion. I apologize for taking an offensive tone towards you in my earlier post. Sometimes our enthusiasm blinds us to others likes and dislikes when they conflict with our own.....which is still no excuse on my part.


No problem as long as we can keep the discussion open to all and I hope that the MiNi lineup continues to grow in scope in the years to come because I still believe it to be an absolute home run of a design, wishful thinking aside.

By the way, nice lanyard! 


4sevens said:


> kaichu, I think you're mistaken again. I always take in feedback and consider all feedback as important. I was simply correcting the error in your statement that it was an OVERSIGHT. My point was, we considered everything and didn't forget something as you tried to point out. Your suggestion was welcome and always will be. That's my attitude. But if there is a wrong statement especially about us, I am compelled to correct it. Fair enough?


Then it was my laziness in using the term oversight and not being more cautious in my wording - my bad. 

As stated above though, I do hope you'll at least stay open in your creative processes and keep the possibility of making the hole a little larger in the future.

I have no plans of giving up my support of the MiNi lineup and hope to soon have a MiNi CR2, which for me would be a watch pocket light and require no attachment point!


----------



## Mother (Mar 12, 2010)

WoooHooo. Just placed the order for the 123x2 seconds ago.... and have already checked the mailbox twice :thinking:


----------



## Flying Turtle (Mar 12, 2010)

I also had no problem with the split ring attachment. In fact I appreciate not having to open the ring much to get it in place. It's an absolute joy compared to my Proton Pro. And the skinny ring is plenty wide enough for paracord. For such a small light I don't think a thicker ring is needed.






Geoff


----------



## was.lost.but.now.found (Mar 12, 2010)

I'm in the "it's too small" camp. The problem for me is I feel nervous putting a ring on that actually fits, because almost by definition a split ring small enough to fit in that hole it not going to be strong enough where it can't just get pulled out (grab the light in one hand, your keys in the other, and pull; it does not take that much force). Some of the slightly larger rings, like that which is on my E01 right now, will go in, but they do not have full play and the tolerance space is only big enough for one "ring" instead of two. The ring just kind of stands erect and cannot move anywhere.

For many of us, the hole exists to place the light on a keychain. Keychains get tons of abuse; I use my light to pull my keys out of my pocket. A weak ring attachment can result in a lost light, which no one wants.

I found that the split rings sold at Wally World in the 3 hundred-ish pack do fit, and are reasonably strong. So long at I replace them every couple months when they start to show wear I'm good. But then there's why I'm bothered enough to sit down and write about it - the split ring that came with the light is a joke, and I had to search high and low to find one which will fit and is barely tolerable. Is it a deal breaker? No. Would I buy another one if it had the same size hole? Not if it were intended for daily use on my keychain.


----------



## tsask (Mar 12, 2010)

was.lost.but.now.found said:


> I found that the split rings sold at Wally World in the 3 hundred-ish pack do fit, and are reasonably strong. - the split ring that came with the light is a joke,.


 

OK at wauullgh Mart? in the hardware section? I will need a few of these.:thumbsup:


----------



## was.lost.but.now.found (Mar 12, 2010)

tsask said:


> OK at wauullgh Mart? in the hardware section? I will need a few of these.:thumbsup:


 
Craft section.

Edit: I tried to find a link but it was futile. I searched the web and Walmart.com and couldn't find it. However, the original tip comes courtesy of Lynx Arc in this thread: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/95492


----------



## traderdell (Mar 12, 2010)

Rob could you share where you find the snap shown in the first picture?

TIA,
Gregg


----------



## bondr006 (Mar 12, 2010)

traderdell said:


> Rob could you share where you find the snap shown in the first picture?
> 
> TIA,
> Gregg



Hi Gregg,

If you are talking about the carabiner, you can find them in just about any size at your local sporting goods store. I got mine at REI. If you are talking about the lobster claw, they used to come on a few of the Fenix lights. I got mine on a couple of Fenix lights a couple of years ago from what used to be Fenix-store.com but is now known as 4Sevens.com. I don't know if they are still available or where you might find them.


----------



## was.lost.but.now.found (Mar 12, 2010)

bondr006 said:


>


 
Dang, that's a lot of hardware for a light that's trying to be small.


----------



## bondr006 (Mar 12, 2010)

was.lost.but.now.found said:


> Dang, that's a lot of hardware for a light that's trying to be small.



Works for me. Hangs on my belt loop just as pretty as can be. You know damn well it's a Geek thing now don't you??? I edc on my person about 7 lights with another 7 to 9 in my backpack.  Go ahead and pick all you want. I'm perfectly comfortable with being an edc junkie. :laughing:


----------



## traderdell (Mar 12, 2010)

I was asking about the lobster claw, Thanks.


----------



## gbelleh (Mar 12, 2010)

I don't mind the size of the hole on the Minis. I have mine attached to a P-7 suspension clip with a nano clip, and small split ring. This works perfectly for me.

I'm glad to see designs that are driven by clear objectives (like being as small as possible), rather than trying to please everyone in every way, and being just another mediocre product.


----------



## was.lost.but.now.found (Mar 12, 2010)

gbelleh said:


> I don't mind the size of the hole on the Minis. I have mine attached to a P-7 suspension clip with a nano clip, and small split ring. This works perfectly for me.


 
I'm curious, what split ring do you have on there? It's doesn't look like the one provided by 4Sevens.


----------



## bullfrog (Mar 12, 2010)

tsask said:


> The attachment ring hole is very TINY. miniscule. It could take a pair of tweezers/toothpick and a magnifing glass or a jeweler to attach.



HUGE +1 to this (sorry to beat a dead horse)

Other than sloppy threads, this is my biggest gripe.

I like to put 550 through lanyard holes and cant even come close - even the tiny "package cord" countycomm sells cant get through the hole. 

With that said, I cant even get a good quality split ring through the hole - I dont like the one it came with - seems flimsy and low quality...


----------



## Monocrom (Mar 12, 2010)

bondr006 said:


> Hi Gregg,
> 
> If you are talking about the carabiner, you can find them in just about any size at your local sporting goods store. I got mine at REI. If you are talking about the lobster claw, they used to come on a few of the Fenix lights. I got mine on a couple of Fenix lights a couple of years ago from what used to be Fenix-store.com but is now known as 4Sevens.com. I don't know if they are still available or where you might find them.


 
Fenix lobster claw clips can be bought seperately at Lighthound.com.

I have a handful of them. Works nicely.


----------



## Beamhead (Mar 12, 2010)

bullfrog said:


> With that said, I cant even get a good quality split ring through the hole - I dont like the one it came with - seems flimsy and low quality...


 
I had no problem getting a good SS split ring in my 4 MiNis.

_

_


----------



## bullfrog (Mar 12, 2010)

Beamhead said:


> I had no problem getting a good SS split ring in my 4 MiNis.
> 
> _
> 
> _




First of all - AWESOME picture! What beauties!!

Second, I dont know what it was but I went through my flashlight boxes and couldnt get any rings I had to fit - yours look really great and obviously fit - where did you buy them?

Maybe the diameter of the hole is slightly different on the Ti models? :thinking::thinking::thinking:


----------



## Beamhead (Mar 12, 2010)

The Ti and Al are the same, I got them in the fishing tackle section of my local sporting goods store, they are #6/6mm. They fit through fine but will not spin free once on, only the single loop section at the opening fits if that makes sense, still far stronger than the included split ring.


----------



## gbelleh (Mar 12, 2010)

was.lost.but.now.found said:


> I'm curious, what split ring do you have on there? It's doesn't look like the one provided by 4Sevens.



I don't remember where the split ring that's attached to the nano clip came from (I have split rings all over the place from different things). But I believe the one attached to the Mini is the 4Sevens ring.

I might look into Beamhead's suggestion to make it a bit more sturdy.


----------



## flasherByNight (Mar 12, 2010)

Will those aeronautical wire thingamabobs fit thru it?
Forget what they're called but it's just a wire with two ends that screw in together to complete the loop...


----------



## burntoshine (Mar 12, 2010)

i also don't mind the size of the hole in the MiNis. i appreciate the smallest size possible for the light and think 7777 made the right choice.

despite the insignificant flaws of my NW Ti 123 MiNi, i love it!

i got the suspension clip for mine; GREAT COMBO!

anyone else have uneven knurling from one side to the other on the head of their Ti MiNis??


----------



## burntoshine (Mar 12, 2010)

flasherByNight said:


> Will those aeronautical wire thingamabobs fit thru it?
> Forget what they're called but it's just a wire with two ends that screw in together to complete the loop...



you mean this guy?...






no, definitely not.

EDIT: just took this with my camera phone...


----------



## PapaGary (Mar 12, 2010)

PapaGary said:


> ***WARNING - First Post!***
> Wow, my MiNi AA doesn't do this. Should I be worried?





carrot said:


> It's nothing to worry about. Your mini is normal.


 
Thanks for answering my obviously noobie question. This morning I decided to try this on the two other Quarks in the house, a MiNi AA that I just got to give to my oldest son for his 39th birthday and a 123 2 that lives by the bed. They both turn on and change modes by pushing on the head. Hmmmm...

[EDIT] Correction: The MiNi AA can be turned on and modes changed by pressing on the head. The Quark 123 2 has to be turned on by the tailcap button but then you can change modes by pressing on the head. I just wanted to get that straight. [/EDIT]

Ah, I'm not going to worry about it but I guess that makes my original MiNi abnormal.


----------



## bullfrog (Mar 12, 2010)

Beamhead said:


> The Ti and Al are the same, I got them in the fishing tackle section of my local sporting goods store, they are #8/8mm. They fit through fine but will not spin free once on, only the single loop section at the opening fits if that makes sense, still far stronger than the included split ring.



Thanks Beamhead for info and part # - I know exactly what you mean re the fit :thumbsup: Going to place an order for some tonight...



A few quick questions for you guys and apologize if its been covered already, but 22 pages is a lot to read through  :

Does anyone know the approximate lumen output on *HIGH* for the MiNi 123 with the *neutral white* emitter? Any IS tests done?

Also, for those that own the Mini 123 with both emitters - is the XPG R5 noticeably or significantly brighter than the neutral Q3?

Have a neutral 123 and trying decide if I should add on an R5...

Lastly, I have a Maratac AA from countycomm and am very happy - for those of you that own both the Maratac AA and Mini AA, are there any compelling arguments for why I should add MiNi AA to my collection as well? Or are they close enough...?

Thanks!


----------



## flasherByNight (Mar 12, 2010)

burntoshine said:


> you mean this guy?...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



yeah, guess not


----------



## burntoshine (Mar 12, 2010)

bullfrog said:


> for those that own the Mini 123 with both emitters - is the XPG R5 noticeably or significantly brighter than the neutral Q3?
> 
> Have a neutral 123 and trying decide if I should add on an R5...



it is noticeable, but not significant; in my opinion.

i have both the neutral white 123 mini and the cool white 123 mini and the cool white is not that much brighter than the neutral white. some people say it's a lot brighter, but i don't think so. it is brighter, but not too terribly much.

i bought the cool white pretty much just to compare them and was going to keep it around if it was indeed a whole lot brighter than the neutral white.

i'm giving it to my pal. his birthday's next month and i think he needs an upgrade from his P1D-Q5 (that i gave him a few years back).


----------



## paulr (Mar 12, 2010)

bullfrog said:


> Does anyone know the approximate lumen output on *HIGH* for the MiNi 123 with the *neutral white* emitter? Any IS tests done?


From what I understand, the neutral led has about 2/3 the lumen output of the XP-G, but because of its narrower beam, the neutral version is slightly brighter in the center of the hot spot than the XP-G version. The XP-G has a larger hot spot which is where the extra output goes. This is for both the AA and 123 versions. I'm not aware of any serious IS testing on any of these lights, though there have been some recreational tests using home-made spheres.


----------



## NightTime (Mar 12, 2010)

bullfrog said:


> Does anyone know the approximate lumen output on *HIGH* for the MiNi 123 with the *neutral white* emitter? Any IS tests done?
> 
> Also, for those that own the Mini 123 with both emitters - is the XPG R5 noticeably or significantly brighter than the neutral Q3?


 
Maybe not IS sphere tested, but still an average from Mev:

4Sevens Quark MiNi CR123 Titanium
http://www.light-reviews.com/4sevens_quark_mini_cr123_ti/compare.html

4Sevens Quark MiNi CR123
http://www.light-reviews.com/4sevens_quark_mini_cr123/compare.html


----------



## bullfrog (Mar 12, 2010)

burntoshine said:


> it is noticeable, but not significant; in my opinion.
> 
> i have both the neutral white 123 mini and the cool white 123 mini and the cool white is not that much brighter than the neutral white. some people say it's a lot brighter, but i don't think so. it is brighter, but not too terribly much.
> 
> ...





paulr said:


> From what I understand, the neutral led has about 2/3 the lumen output of the XP-G, but because of its narrower beam, the neutral version is slightly brighter in the center of the hot spot than the XP-G version. The XP-G has a larger hot spot which is where the extra output goes. This is for both the AA and 123 versions. I'm not aware of any serious IS testing on any of these lights, though there have been some recreational tests using home-made spheres.



Gentlemen, thank you for the thorough responses. I'll be stickin with my neutral 123


----------



## Flying Turtle (Mar 12, 2010)

bullfrog said:


> Lastly, I have a Maratac AA from countycomm and am very happy - for those of you that own both the Maratac AA and Mini AA, are there any compelling arguments for why I should add MiNi AA to my collection as well? Or are they close enough...?



I recently opted for the MiNi AA as a gift for my brother. It was a tough decision between it and the Maratac. From my reading they seemed pretty equal in performance, size, and price. The only reason the MiNi won was concern that, if something was not right I'd get quicker service from 4Sevens, and I thought my brother might get a kick out of the blinkie modes. If it was just for me I'd probably get the Maratac for its lower low and pocket clip. 

Geoff


----------



## kaichu dento (Mar 12, 2010)

bondr006 said:


> Works for me. Hangs on my belt loop just as pretty as can be. You know damn well it's a Geek thing now don't you??? I edc on my person about 7 lights with another 7 to 9 in my backpack.  Go ahead and pick all you want. I'm perfectly comfortable with being an edc junkie. :laughing:


Couldn't help but smile reading this post and looking at your avatar. :laughing:


gbelleh said:


> I don't mind the size of the hole on the Minis. I have mine attached to a P-7 suspension clip with a nano clip, and small split ring. This works perfectly for me.
> 
> I'm glad to see designs that are driven by clear objectives (like being as small as possible), rather than trying to please everyone in every way, and being just another mediocre product.


That's both a straw man argument and utterly ridiculous to suggest that the MiNi at a couple millimeters longer with a slightly larger attachment hole would be a mediocre light; in fact I don't think your argument would be any different if it were.

You're happy with them as is, which is wonderful, but it's silly to suggest that it would be ruined with any changes implemented.


----------



## joshconsulting (Mar 13, 2010)

I think the point here is that 4Sevens designed it intentionally, based on their target market, knowing that there would be a few people who hated it. They did it anyway, assuming it would please the majority of customers. So yes, it's entirely understandable that a few people here will rant about it. But I have yet to see a post from someone refusing to buy it simply because of the loop. I, for one, don't plan on using a lanyard and am very happy with every size decrease possible. Remember, 4Sevens sells to more then just CPF enthusiasts - they sell to people who don't use flashlights as often, look at you funny when you say 'EDC', and wouldn't dream of buying a separate lanyard for their flashlight. 4Sevens has plenty of insight, feedback, and experience in designing lights, and while everyone can voice an opinion, I would guess our personal prejudices blind us to the business decisions 4sevens makes.

So anyway, I've had a MiNi 123 in my cart for days now. I keep delaying, I don't know why. At first it was delaying until my Trustfire 16340s showed up. But they've been here for days, and now the only thing keeping me is 'it won't get delivered until monday or tuesday, if I order before monday I have an extra day of shipping time thanks to sunday'. So I've got batteries and no light, yet I wish I had ordered the light last week so I could be playing with it now. Someone say something positive about these so I can finally force myself to do it


----------



## bondr006 (Mar 13, 2010)

joshconsulting said:


> Someone say something positive about these so I can finally force myself to do it



I've not one regret in buying this light. It has been in my edc lineup since the day I got it. If ever I need a reminder why I bought this light, I just hold the little firecracker in my hand and it's



all over again.


----------



## Beamhead (Mar 13, 2010)

Nice pics!:thumbsup:


----------



## ikelo (Mar 13, 2010)

after having my mini 123 for a few days, i can safely say that i love it!

i thought nothing could replace my P1D-Q5, but now, i don't even remember where it is or when i last saw it. poor P1D has officially been replaced.

i honestly didn't want to like the mini 123 because i didn't want anything to be "better" than my P1D, but to me, the mini is just that. i'm very glad i bought it.


----------



## carrot (Mar 13, 2010)

ikelo said:


> i thought nothing could replace my P1D-Q5, but now, i don't even remember where it is or when i last saw it. poor P1D has officially been replaced.


:lolsign:



ikelo said:


> i honestly didn't want to like the mini 123 because i didn't want anything to be "better" than my P1D, but to me, the mini is just that. i'm very glad i bought it.


A pocket clip and momentary button is the only thing preventing it from overthrowing *my* $500 EDC. But an addition like that would significantly change the MiNi from what it is. So I love the MiNi as it is.


----------



## Advil (Mar 13, 2010)

Got my Quark Mini 123 today! It's very nice but it skips modes and flickers for a few seconds every time i turn it on (regardless of what setting)

it skips so often and so fast that by the time it stabilizes, it's' already in the "hidden" modes. 

can't i use electrical tape or something on the threads to fix this? i read it somewhere but i don't know what tape it is exactly.


----------



## carrot (Mar 13, 2010)

Teflon tape. And try adjusting your technique, if you push or pull on the head when you twist you may inadvertently skip modes. It is best if you just spin the head between forefinger and thumb. With good technique you will never skip modes...


----------



## kaichu dento (Mar 13, 2010)

joshconsulting said:


> Someone say something positive about these so I can finally force myself to do it


They have a wonderful feel in hand and a very smooth beam with nice wide hotspot, not to mention perfect transition from wide hotspot to ample flood. If you don't want to see the blinky modes, no problem - if you want them, they're there in a heartbeat! 

Hurry up and join the rest of us! How's that!


----------



## Woods Walker (Mar 13, 2010)

carrot said:


> Teflon tape. And try adjusting your technique, if you push or pull on the head when you twist you may inadvertently skip modes. It is best if you just spin the head between forefinger and thumb. With good technique you will never skip modes...


 
Someone shouldn't have to use Teflon tape nor use any tricks to make their light work right. My AA mini works just fine without any of these things. I would just return it for a new one.


----------



## Advil (Mar 13, 2010)

i REALLY don't want to send it back because my order from 4sevens was lost, and they were nice enough to replace my order (something they absolutely DID NOT have to do). i would feel terrible if i told them their replacement wasn't good enough!


----------



## joshconsulting (Mar 13, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> They have a wonderful feel in hand and a very smooth beam with nice wide hotspot, not to mention perfect transition from wide hotspot to ample flood. If you don't want to see the blinky modes, no problem - if you want them, they're there in a heartbeat!
> 
> Hurry up and join the rest of us! How's that!









How's that 

And now begins the waiting game I dread so much. Once I know it's in the mail I can't leave my mailbox unchecked for too long at a time. So much so that I waited weeks to order it 

Also, has anyone tried a little grease on the threads? I have some Nyogel 60 that I used on a few of my lights and it really smoothed out and stiffened the threads. I've tried Teflon tape as well, but it tends to fall off after a few dozen twists.

Bonus pic: My new batteries charging. They weren't working sideways in the Ultrafire, so I grabbed the closest piece of metal and threw it in to charge. Seems to have no problems with the electrical resistance of the dime, I'm sure someone here will tell me if things are about to blow up. I really like the DX ultra\trustfire batteries, unbelievably cheap compared to shipping + cost of batteries from anywhere else. I really didn't feel like digging out my real phone, so you get the wonderful clarity and superior resolution and noise elimination of an iPhone 3GS 3 MP camera in low light.


----------



## Woods Walker (Mar 13, 2010)

Advil said:


> i REALLY don't want to send it back because my order from 4sevens was lost, and they were nice enough to replace my order (something they absolutely DID NOT have to do). i would feel terrible if i told them their replacement wasn't good enough!


 
They have very good CS so I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## kaichu dento (Mar 13, 2010)

Advil said:


> i REALLY don't want to send it back because my order from 4sevens was lost, and they were nice enough to replace my order (something they absolutely DID NOT have to do). i would feel terrible if i told them their replacement wasn't good enough!





Woods Walker said:


> They have very good CS so I wouldn't worry about it.


What he said!


joshconsulting said:


> How's that
> 
> And now begins the waiting game I dread so much. Once I know it's in the mail I can't leave my mailbox unchecked for too long at a time.


Good, now go watch a good movie and forget about it until it shows up!

Love your battery spacers! How much were they? :laughing:


----------



## joshconsulting (Mar 13, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> What he said!
> 
> Good, now go watch a good movie and forget about it until it shows up!
> 
> Love your battery spacers! How much were they? :laughing:



Cheap from an online store, but they nickle and dime you to death if you aren't careful with your order 

Three. More. Days. Possibly four. The uncertainty is the worst part of it...


----------



## kaichu dento (Mar 13, 2010)

joshconsulting said:


> Cheap from an online store, but they nickle and dime you to death if you aren't careful with your order
> 
> Three. More. Days. Possibly four. The uncertainty is the worst part of it...


But I'd swear I've seen those in town somewhere... 

Oh, about the light that you're sweating bullets waiting for, just stop thinking about it! Now to get your mind off the light, go watch a movie, or make one with your girlfriend!


----------



## Zendude (Mar 13, 2010)

joshconsulting said:


> How's that
> 
> And now begins the waiting game I dread so much. Once I know it's in the mail I can't leave my mailbox unchecked for too long at a time. So much so that I waited weeks to order it
> 
> ...



Do I see keys *without* a keychain light?!


----------



## tsask (Mar 13, 2010)

joshconsulting said:


> .


 
What a great idea using a dime as a spacer/magnet. :twothumbsI have that same charger and I use it for 18650/14500. nice to see I can use it for RCR123s! THANKS AGAIN


----------



## joshconsulting (Mar 13, 2010)

Well, this is ironic. I had almost finished a post for this thread last night when the power died (1st time in at LEAST 1.5 years). Used the flashlight to walk around, check on everybody, do a little reading, and finally go to bed. Too bad I didn't have my C2 SS (hopefully will get here today!) or Quark. Oh well, I still love the AKOray, the hotspots just too small for good EDC use.



> Oh, about the light that you're sweating bullets waiting for, just stop thinking about it! Now to get your mind off the light, go watch a movie, or make one with your girlfriend!


Will do. I think we'll make a flower documentary. I'll be sure to send you a link.



> Do I see keys without a keychain light?!


Those are backup keys for the third car, my main keyring has the usual house\car\locker\boat\half a dozen I have never used and don't know what they unlock. I think I still have a key to a car I sold 5 years ago. But no, no keychain light, I prefer to EDC a light seperately in my pocket. Light and keys go in my left pocket, iPhone goes in my right, wallet goes in the back. The perfect combo 



> .
> 
> What a great idea using a dime as a spacer/magnet. I have that same charger and I use it for 18650/14500. nice to see I can use it for RCR123s! THANKS AGAIN


The charging current and everything works great for the RCRs, I'll probably find a square chunk of metal or something lying around in the shop for a permanent spacer. The dimes tend to roll out when I bump the charger hard enough. But they do the trick with me having to go look for something else


----------



## gbelleh (Mar 13, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> Couldn't help but smile reading this post and looking at your avatar. :laughing:
> 
> That's both a straw man argument and utterly ridiculous to suggest that the MiNi at a couple millimeters longer with a slightly larger attachment hole would be a mediocre light; in fact I don't think your argument would be any different if it were.
> 
> You're happy with them as is, which is wonderful, but it's silly to suggest that it would be ruined with any changes implemented.



I'm definitely not saying that a larger hole would ruin this light. My point is that in a world of bland, one-size-fits-all, products, it's nice to see designs that push the limits and meet clear objectives. This light is uniquely small, and that makes it special. Compromising the small size would make it more like everything else already out there.

If a lanyard hole is super important, there are plenty of other choices available. Variety is a wonderful thing! :thumbsup:


----------



## kaichu dento (Mar 13, 2010)

joshconsulting said:


> Will do. I think we'll make a flower documentary. I'll be sure to send you a link.


Make sure and start a thread with it! 


gbelleh said:


> I'm definitely not saying that a larger hole would ruin this light. My point is that in a world of bland, one-size-fits-all, products, it's nice to see designs that push the limits and meet clear objectives. This light is uniquely small, and that makes it special. Compromising the small size would make it more like everything else already out there.
> 
> If a lanyard hole is super important, there are plenty of other choices available. Variety is a wonderful thing! :thumbsup:


But the MiNi lineup would not be bland in the least with a slightly larger hole. If they really wanted to make it the smallest possible then they might as well have left off the protruding numbers and had no attachment point whatsoever. 

That would be ridiculous though, and I believe it would still be a better light had they made it 2 millimeters longer and even you would have had no complaints with. No compromise whatsoever and it would have still been the shortest, although they didn't choose to make them the slimmest, as that crown goes to the EZ series. 

Variety is indeed a wonderful thing, just as being able to express your opinion is too. I'll choose to voice my view on the hole size and when the next maker comes along looking at what some of the others could have done, they'll offer it.


----------



## ImGeo (Mar 14, 2010)

Soo... when will XP-G R5 not be green tint?

Of all the lights I've ever used so far, the Mini AA has been most satisfactory. Only two quirks I have with it are the tint (really annoying) and the dimness for AA (not really annoying). Other problems I've had with lights (L2D: SOS mode); (Quark Tactical: preflash); (Quark: tooo many modes); etc.

I think I'll re-buy one when XP-G aren't green anymore. I really like everything else about it though.


----------



## joshconsulting (Mar 14, 2010)

ImGeo said:


> Soo... when will XP-G R5 not be green tint?
> 
> Of all the lights I've ever used so far, the Mini AA has been most satisfactory. Only two quirks I have with it are the tint (really annoying) and the dimness for AA (not really annoying). Other problems I've had with lights (L2D: SOS mode); (Quark Tactical: preflash); (Quark: tooo many modes); etc.
> 
> I think I'll re-buy one when XP-G aren't green anymore. I really like everything else about it though.



From what I've seen, the XP-G green tint is unusual, not the usual. If you don't like it, resell it on the MP and buy another, chances are you'll have one closer to neutral. Also, I hear it's been getting better. We'll see when I get mine.


----------



## paulr (Mar 14, 2010)

I agree with Kaichu Dento, the hole is too small and adding a 1-2mm to the light to make the hole larger would have been fine. There is always the cr2 version to minimize size, though that too should have the larger hole.

Any chance of offering a different UI to those of us who don't want to start in low mode? Also I still find I enter the blink modes by accident sometimes. It would be better to make them even harder to access, if they are intended primarily for emergencies.


----------



## pobox1475 (Mar 15, 2010)

> The attachment ring hole is very TINY. miniscule. It could take a pair of tweezers/toothpick and a magnifying glass or a jeweler to attach.


 
I came up with the idea to use a swivel designed for fishing instead of a bulky Nano clip that is not fully trust worthy. I have plans to complete the set-up with a P7 suspension clip. last night I noticed a cheap alloy 1" carabiner I got from REI sitting unused. It actually works pretty darn good. only a small portion is visible outside my pocket when clipped and it securely _grabs_ the fabric. Will add a pic later...



> I use my light to pull my keys out of my pocket. A weak ring attachment can result in a lost light, which no one wants.


 Visit you local *Bass Pro Shop* or other well stocked fishing supply retailer. The miniscule quality rings available there are more than up to the task you present. I have caught many 20+ lb fish and have never had a ring fail.



> I like to put 550 through lanyard holes and cant even come close - even the tiny "package cord" countycomm sells cant get through the hole.
> 
> With that said, I cant even get a good quality split ring through the hole - I dont like the one it came with - seems flimsy and low quality...


 Another option is to take it to a jeweler. They can solder a ring that would not fray any cord you opted to use.


----------



## recDNA (Mar 15, 2010)

ImGeo said:


> Soo... when will XP-G R5 not be green tint?
> 
> Of all the lights I've ever used so far, the Mini AA has been most satisfactory. Only two quirks I have with it are the tint (really annoying) and the dimness for AA (not really annoying). Other problems I've had with lights (L2D: SOS mode); (Quark Tactical: preflash); (Quark: tooo many modes); etc.
> 
> I think I'll re-buy one when XP-G aren't green anymore. I really like everything else about it though.


 

I honestly belive some people don't SEE the green shade. I have 3 XP-G Quarks and every one is the exact same green shade. Could I BE that unlucky if the green tint is unusual?


I dream of the day somebody figures out a way to put a clicky on a keychain light and keep it small enough to BE a keychain light.


----------



## bullfrog (Mar 15, 2010)

Well, after adding some of the really sticky nyogel to the threads of my MiNi 123 neutral and giving this little light a chance, I am starting to really enjoy it.

With the tackier lube, the twisting is tight and no accidental level switches anymore - this makes such a world of difference and I recommend some nyogel to anyone who has sh*tty thread play - seriously I went from hate to love all because of some lube :naughty: .

I've gotten over the split ring issue and just sucked it up - even my Surefire or Ra aren't perfect I guess...

Been EDCing the light for a week now and it really is growing on me - pretty much 100% because of the beautiful tint and nice output - it is just so damn gorgeous. 

I'm a Q3 5Aer for life - can we get jackets made?


----------



## vali (Mar 15, 2010)

bullfrog said:


> I'm a Q3 5Aer for life



Sure... Until XPG NW are available


----------



## Andyy (Mar 17, 2010)

Question for the Mini AA & 14500 users, do you guys have to "twist" harder to put it on?


----------



## pobox1475 (Mar 18, 2010)

I did not.


----------



## lightsandknives (Mar 18, 2010)

Andyy said:


> Question for the Mini AA & 14500 users, do you guys have to "twist" harder to put it on?



Not me.


----------



## PapaGary (Mar 18, 2010)

Andyy said:


> Question for the Mini AA & 14500 users, do you guys have to "twist" harder to put it on?





Harder than what? Mine (QMiNi AA) moves easily but not so easy that it turns on in my pocket.


----------



## Lite_me (Mar 19, 2010)

PapaGary said:


> Harder than what? Mine (QMiNi AA) moves easily but not so easy that it turns on in my pocket.


He means, is it harder to turn On with a 14500 than it is with a standard NiMH or primary battery. Typically, 14500 batteries are a bit longer, making the light harder to activate.


----------



## PapaGary (Mar 19, 2010)

Lite_me said:


> He means, is it harder to turn On *with a 14500 *than it is with a standard NiMH or primary battery. Typically, 14500 batteries are a bit longer, making the light harder to activate.


Whoops, I missed that part.

Never mind.:duh2:

(Still a noobie and proving it with every post...)


----------



## pobox1475 (Mar 21, 2010)

Recently I have been experiencing a glitch with my Mini Ti AA. Using an Eneloop battery I have experienced several times where the light will stay lit all the way until I unscrew head completely removing it from body :shakehead.


----------



## Beamhead (Mar 21, 2010)

Can you post a video of that?


----------



## Chauncey Gardner (Mar 21, 2010)

pobox1475 said:


> Recently I have been experiencing a glitch with my Mini Ti AA. Using an Eneloop battery I have experienced several times where the light will stay lit all the way until I unscrew head completely removing it from body :shakehead.


 
Wondering how that works when the light engine out of contact with the power source.

One of my ti 123 mini's has some issues with not coming on at all or randomly skipping modes (it goes into strobe & beacon even without prompting it), but nothing like what you are describing.

The other light is perfect with great tint & nice tight threads.


----------



## Beamhead (Mar 21, 2010)

The only thing I can think of is the PCB is spinning free and sticking to the positive part of the cell as it is unscrewed. :thinking:


----------



## Monocrom (Mar 21, 2010)

pobox1475 said:


> Recently I have been experiencing a glitch with my Mini Ti AA. Using an Eneloop battery I have experienced several times where the light will stay lit all the way until I unscrew head completely removing it from body :shakehead.


 
As good as they are, perhaps using a different battery would fix the problem.


----------



## paulr (Mar 21, 2010)

My 123 neutral skips modes occasionally, sometimes landing in the "hard to access" blinkblinkblink modes. The mode skipping is an inevitable consequence of multi-twist design since there can be some contact bounce. It's one of the reasons I find the blinkblinkblink modes more trouble than they're worth.


----------



## branespload (Mar 21, 2010)

My Ti 123 NW skips modes or flickers and acts up if the twist action isn't deliberate and the technique isn't good.. but the problem is the threads make it hard to easily operate "correctly." My little brother handed the light back to me on medium and he said "did you know your light emits a high pitched squeal?" I couldn't recreate the sound with my technique, but handing it back to him he twisted it to medium and it would squeal..

I played around with half-assing the turns and I can sometimes even get a super super super low mode, or weird flickering, or high pitched squeals..

it's a shame too, because the tint and the titanium are really nice.


----------



## Lite_me (Mar 21, 2010)

pobox1475 said:


> Recently I have been experiencing a glitch with my Mini Ti AA. Using an Eneloop battery I have experienced several times where the light will stay lit all the way until I unscrew head completely removing it from body :shakehead.


You have a short from the -Neg side (outer contact ring) of the board over to the body of the light (head). Could be from loose metal shavings contamination or just a defective board that has an exposed -neg current path touching the body somewhere. A blob of solder - frayed wire? I had a board once that had a piece of wire sticking out through the edge, it was part of the -neg path and caused the light (a twisty) to act exactly this way. The light would stay lit while untwisting until the +pos battery contact separated. The spring keeps it in contact while unscrewing. I filed that part down a bit and that took care of it.

You'll need to find where the short is. You'll probably need to remove the pill to get a better look if it continues. Or, that's what the warranty is for.


----------



## Zendude (Mar 21, 2010)

pobox1475 said:


> .


You must be using an XPG as a lightsource against a white background!:devil::nana:



pobox1475 said:


> Recently I have been experiencing a glitch with my Mini Ti AA. Using an Eneloop battery I have experienced several times where the light will stay lit all the way until I unscrew head completely removing it from body :shakehead.



I had the same thing happen.

The - contact on the PCB in the head widens at two points. This is where the battery tube makes contact. Pressure from tightening the head caused the outside lip to raise and make contact with the threads. I used a pin to knock it down and have not had a problem since. Hope this helps.:wave:


----------



## ozner1991 (Mar 24, 2010)

i just got my 2 minis both AA and cr123 and i love them. the AA is going to replace the EO1 ive had on my keys since it was first available.

i love the size of the AA and its output but i'm annoyed by its thread play. the cr123 has even more play.

because of this play the light can wobble its self on. because of that you have to twist it so far beyond any activation point that in my use i could not get the light on single handed. 
when i was able to turn it on with 1 hand the light was prone to tilting because of its threading and it accidentally switching on.

just for other users.

ive used a thick lube to try and get some of the wobble out and keep it from turning on. gonna try finding a thicker O ring tomorrow to see if that helps any


----------



## jimbo231 (Mar 24, 2010)

I heard you can only use the high mode on the mini 123 for about 30sec with a 16340 or it gets really hot. Can you use it for the full battery life on high with a 3.0V primary?


----------



## branespload (Mar 24, 2010)

^ yes you can. it fully thermally supports 3.0V primaries.


----------



## Connor (Mar 25, 2010)

jimbo231 said:


> I heard you can only use the high mode on the mini 123 for about 30sec with a 16340 or it gets really hot.



Not true. My Quark MiNi 123 with RCR123A (AWs MP 700mAh unprotected) needs a least 2-3 minutes on high before it get's "really hot".


----------



## psychbeat (Mar 25, 2010)

^^^^word^^^

Ive dared to use mine for longer on cold night rides on my
bike with no problems ....so far


----------



## Woods Walker (Mar 25, 2010)

Just some photos of my Mini AA warm tint on the AT. I used my ZL H501w for camp use and took the Quark for a makeshift lantern and backup headlamp when used with the Nitecore headband.


----------



## the.Mtn.Man (Mar 26, 2010)

O.K., guys, help me out here. I'm looking at getting either the Quark MiNi AA or the Maratac AA. They're basically the same light as far as I can tell with the main differences being that the Maratac comes with a clip and it has a narrower beam than the Quark. But how much narrower are we talking? Can anybody who owns both these lights give me the lowdown, or even beam shots? Would be much appreciated.


----------



## 4sevens (Mar 26, 2010)

the.Mtn.Man said:


> O.K., guys, help me out here. I'm looking at getting either the Quark MiNi AA or the Maratac AA. They're basically the same light as far as I can tell with the main differences being that the Maratac comes with a clip and it has a narrower beam than the Quark. But how much narrower are we talking? Can anybody who owns both these lights give me the lowdown, or even beam shots? Would be much appreciated.


I think this is not a a fair comparison. Just the LED different is huge. The R5's are at least 28% more efficient or more light at the same power compared to the Q5's. We pay significantly more than the Q5's that have been around.

Also, if you haven't compare to the you really don't know how much of a difference the PWM is. The maratac's PWM rate makes me sick to much stomach. The Qmini AA is virtually unnoticeable.

Someone else who had owned or handled both need to chime in. It's a world of difference!


----------



## the.Mtn.Man (Mar 26, 2010)

4sevens said:


> I think this is not a a fair comparison. Just the LED different is huge. The R5's are at least 28% more efficient or more light at the same power compared to the Q5's. We pay significantly more than the Q5's that have been around.


According to the specs, both lights put out about the same lumens (though I'm not sure if Maratac measures theirs at the emitter or OTF) and have virtually identical run-times.



4sevens said:


> Also, if you haven't compare to the you really don't know how much of a difference the PWM is. The maratac's PWM rate makes me sick to much stomach. The Qmini AA is virtually unnoticeable.


Reviews I've seen suggest that it's much faster than other Maratac models and virtually unnoticeable.



4sevens said:


> Someone else who had owned or handled both need to chime in. It's a world of difference!


That's what I was hoping for. 

By the way, David, you really need to consider making a clip for the Qmini.


----------



## Woods Walker (Mar 26, 2010)

4sevens said:


> I think this is not a a fair comparison. Just the LED different is huge. The R5's are at least 28% more efficient or more light at the same power compared to the Q5's. We pay significantly more than the Q5's that have been around.
> 
> Also, if you haven't compare to the you really don't know how much of a difference the PWM is. The maratac's PWM rate makes me sick to much stomach. The Qmini AA is virtually unnoticeable.
> 
> Someone else who had owned or handled both need to chime in. It's a world of difference!


 
The iTP A2 and Mini Quark AA seemed to have the same PWM which are both unnoticeable. Are you talking about the maratac *AAA *which has a very noticable PWM as it is also made by iTP (A3).


----------



## HKJ (Mar 26, 2010)

Woods Walker said:


> The iTP A2 and Mini Quark AA seemed to have the same PWM which are both unnoticeable. Are you talking about the maratac *AAA *which has a very noticable PWM as it is also made by iTP (A3).



Maratac AA and MiNi AA both have the same PWM at 2.4 kHz, I have not checked the A2, because I could not locate it.

This is not very surprising as it looks like they uses the same same circuit, i.e. only the program in the microprocessor is different and Maratac(ITP) has figured out that we like a high pwm frequency.


----------



## the.Mtn.Man (Mar 28, 2010)

compasillo posted some beam shots in the Maratac AA thread:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3331756&postcount=242

For the record, the Quark MiNi is substantially wider hot spot with a much smoother transition from hot spot to spill, though it looks like the Maratac has better throw. Since I value a wider beam for more close up stuff (around the house and in the car) David can rest easy knowing I'll be buying one of his lights.


----------



## Woods Walker (Mar 28, 2010)

I think you will like the Mini. I do.


----------



## strinq (Mar 28, 2010)

Have been using the mini for a couple of weeks now. 
Does seem a little 'fat' for pocket carry (i have em strung with my car keys).
Once, I was settling down for an official game of chess when i suddenly felt my leg feeling really hot (jeans). 
Seems that the mini was turned on to high! (had rcr123's in them). 

So it seems that it turns on very easily so now i keep it a little 'loose' to avoid accidental turn ons. 
Ano isn't great though, has scuff marks already by coming in contact with the keys (compared to my liteflux which is absolutely amazing). 

But overall, :thumbsup:


----------



## compasillo (Mar 29, 2010)

Here's a beamshot comparison... The 3 lights with a fresh L91


----------



## recDNA (Mar 29, 2010)

Anybody got a beamshot of a Mini with RCR123 compared to a Mini with 14500?


----------



## paulr (Mar 30, 2010)

Connor said:


> Not true. My Quark MiNi 123 with RCR123A (AWs MP 700mAh unprotected) needs a least 2-3 minutes on high before it get's "really hot".



How many have you tried, and if not many, what makes you think they're all the same? The point is the manufacturer promises that the light works properly with a 3 volt cell, but makes no statements at all about what happens with a 3.6 volt cell. It's like overclocking your CPU. Maybe 60% of them work fine, 39% of them overheat rather quickly, and 1% explode or catch on fire. I suspect it has something to do with the Vf curve of the individual led, which testing has shown varies significantly from one led to another. Other components like capacitors will also vary, and that may also figure into it. If you want to run a light on 3.6 volts, it's best to use a buck-boost converter, rather than relying on some combination of the light's internal resistance and the relative closeness of the cell voltage to the led voltage at mild overdrive.

Also, having the light get "really hot" after 2-3 minutes (or even 2-3 hours) is not so good either, since one of light's intended usage modes is as a tail-standing area light (that's why it has a flat tail), giving a potential meltdown or ignition if you set it down and forget that it's running. A consumer light (that's what this is) should be safe to operate in all intended modes, including in the presence of user error or forgetfulness.


----------



## recDNA (Mar 31, 2010)

BigC measured the lumens of the Mini AA with 14500 installed at 300 lumens! I'd love to see a beamshot comparison of the Mini AA with 14500 next to the Mini123 with rcr123 or imr16340.


----------



## Connor (Mar 31, 2010)

paulr said:


> Also, having the light get "really hot" after 2-3 minutes (or even 2-3 hours) is not so good either, since one of light's intended usage modes is as a tail-standing area light (that's why it has a flat tail), giving a potential meltdown or ignition if you set it down and forget that it's running. A consumer light (that's what this is) should be safe to operate in all intended modes, including in the presence of user error or forgetfulness.



Well, I consider myself to be a prosumer in regards to flashlights and the QMini 123 is very usable with RCR123s for me. 
The low and medium levels are perfectly fine with 3.7V LiIons and I don't use the high level for more than a minute or two. 
As I said: The light gets hot, but it takes a few minutes. If you completely enclose the QMini in your hand it will take even longer before the light gets LED-damaging hot. The circuit is designed for 3.7V, the light just gets too hot too quickly to sell it to the masses as 3.7V-compatible flashlight.

If you know what you are doing, you are fine even with RCR123s on high.
If I put the QMiNi on a table on high and forget it there and it subsequently melts down I won't complain because it's my fault.  :candle:

-Connor


----------



## the.Mtn.Man (Apr 2, 2010)

My Quark MiNi AA arrived yesterday. What a great little light! It's hard to appreciate just how small and light it is until you get it in your hands (my wife actually thinks it's _too_ small).

The beam is wonderful. I really like the larger hot spot (compared to the Quark AA) and the smoother transition from hot spot to spill. It's super easy to operate one-handed with no thread play or mode skipping, but the head is still tight enough that I'm not worried about it coming apart or turning itself on in my pocket. Overall fit and finish of the light is excellent.

The beam color is slightly blue compared to my Quark AA which is closer to pure white. I can easily tell in a side-by-side comparison, but on its own I don't find the color especially noticeable or objectionable.

All in all it looks like another fantastic light from 4sevens. Looks like I have a new EDC.


----------



## joshconsulting (Apr 2, 2010)

I am not happy. My MiNi just went through a washing machine cycle with a pair of keys in my pocket. I pulled it out expecting no damage to be done besides a few flakes of anodizing, but it won't turn on. I can hear something shaking in the head, it sounds as if something has broken loose. I've had plenty of things go through the laundry without a scratch, so I'm not too happy that this happened. Seems like a good knock from a fall would have broken it as well if a spin cycle did. Time to go buy an A1. According to BigC's chart it's 25% brighter on an RCR and throwier to boot, without the green tint problems that plauge the Quark. Not to mention it costs 30% less. I spent extra for the dimmer Quark based on the reputation, but I'm no longer convinced it was a good investment.

Sorry for the angry post, I'm still bitter about losing my EDC. K-106 here I come


----------



## 4sevens (Apr 2, 2010)

joshconsulting said:


> I am not happy. My MiNi just went through a washing machine cycle with a pair of keys in my pocket. I pulled it out expecting no damage to be done besides a few flakes of anodizing, but it won't turn on. I can hear something shaking in the head, it sounds as if something has broken loose. I've had plenty of things go through the laundry without a scratch, so I'm not too happy that this happened. Seems like a good knock from a fall would have broken it as well if a spin cycle did. Time to go buy an A1. According to BigC's chart it's 25% brighter on an RCR and throwier to boot, without the green tint problems that plauge the Quark. Not to mention it costs 30% less. I spent extra for the dimmer Quark based on the reputation, but I'm no longer convinced it was a good investment.
> 
> Sorry for the angry post, I'm still bitter about losing my EDC. K-106 here I come


Shoot an email to us and we'll get you exchanged. I'd like to see what exactly happened. customerservice at gmail dot-com


----------



## Advil (Apr 2, 2010)

i love these guys ^^

will there ever be a mini123 that supports the extra output of the rcr123 without damage/danger?


----------



## recDNA (Apr 2, 2010)

compasillo said:


> Here's a beamshot comparison... The 3 lights with a fresh L91


 

Great shot!

Can I get someone to post a Min1 AA with 14500 vs a Mini 123 with IMR16340 or RCR123? Bigchelis recorded 100 more lumens from the AA with 14500. If it shows up in the beam shot I need to buy another Mini and a 14500.


----------



## trapperjay (Apr 2, 2010)

is there an aftermarket clip made to fit the MiniAA in the same direction as the Regular 123 with a clip? I clip them onto my hat as a headlamp at times and find this feature on the 123 invaluable.


----------



## Monocrom (Apr 3, 2010)

recDNA said:


> Can I get someone to post a Min1 AA with 14500 vs a Mini 123 with IMR16340 or RCR123? Bigchelis recorded 100 more lumens from the AA with 14500. If it shows up in the beam shot I need to buy another Mini and a 14500.


 
I've heard 300 lumens out the front from a 14500 in the AA Quark Mini. And now only 100. Anyone able to give a definite answer? :thinking:


----------



## joshconsulting (Apr 3, 2010)

Monocrom said:


> I've heard 300 lumens out the front from a 14500 in the AA Quark Mini. And now only 100. Anyone able to give a definite answer? :thinking:



100 *more* lumens. 100 more then the 123s 200.

But even Big C agreed that the 200 for his quark was suspiciously low. He may have gotten a dimmer emitter. My Quark pulls (pulled :ironic 1.26A from an RCR123, which means the current draw for the AA to have 50% more light would have been well over 2A, which is more then the battery can handle. He either got a very high vF LED in his 123 and a very low vF in his AA, or there's another issue with one of his lights. He's planning on retesting once someone else shows up with another 123.


----------



## recDNA (Apr 3, 2010)

Someone must have both! Beamshots will settle it!


----------



## the.Mtn.Man (Apr 3, 2010)

More praise for my recently released Mini. I just love this thing! I used to think the Quark AA was small, but it looks huge next to the Mini. But despite being the size of my index finger, it performs like a flashlight 10x its size. 4Sevens also did a fantastic job with the interface. I have to perform a very deliberate procedure in order to access the special blinky modes, so they never get in the way during normal operation, and it's pretty much impossible to accidentally activate them.

My only niggling gripe is that I wish the low mode was a little lower.


----------



## compasillo (Apr 5, 2010)

I have both Minis and the output with 14500 and 16340 respectively are very close.
The mini 123 has a tighter hot spot.
I'll try to post a beamshot comparison later.


----------



## compasillo (Apr 5, 2010)

Here come the beamshots comparison. Both flashlights are powered by fully charged
batteries (4.2v). 

When compairing at a close distance seems hard to find the difference





More distance to the wall and the beam pattern difference is noticeable





Full power (overdriven at 4.2v)





Hope this definetely helps...


----------



## Monocrom (Apr 5, 2010)

Just can't risk burning out the LED on my Ti Quark Mini CR123 light with a 16430 . . . So I'll just have to get an aluminum Quark Mini AA and some 14500 cells. lovecpf

Thanks for those sweet beamshots.


----------



## the.Mtn.Man (Apr 8, 2010)

I have to say I'm really loving the beam of the AA Mini. The hot spot is so much larger than other lights I've used in the past, and the transition to spill is so smooth. It makes other lights feel like a laser pointer in comparison.


----------



## jysh17 (Apr 8, 2010)

First post and the Quark mini 123 is my first non cheap maglite type flashlight. Really like the size of the light given the brightness. The whole twisting for multiple levels is a little weird to me though. How do you guys carry your quarks usually? I've just been sticking mine in the change pocket of my jeans.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Apr 8, 2010)

Welcome to CPF, jysh17. Glad you're liking your Mini. That's the beauty of this light, it's small enough to just drop in a pocket.

Geoff


----------



## kaichu dento (Apr 8, 2010)

the.Mtn.Man said:


> I have to say I'm really loving the beam of the AA Mini. The hot spot is so much larger than other lights I've used in the past, and the transition to spill is so smooth. It makes other lights feel like a laser pointer in comparison.


There are lots of lights with just as good a beam pattern and I'm sure you'll soon find which ones they are, but the Quarks are some of the first reliably affordable lights to offer one.


----------



## vali (Apr 9, 2010)

jysh17 said:


> First post and the Quark mini 123 is my first non cheap maglite type flashlight. Really like the size of the light given the brightness. The whole twisting for multiple levels is a little weird to me though. How do you guys carry your quarks usually? I've just been sticking mine in the change pocket of my jeans.



I use the supplied split-ring to attach the mini as a keychain.


----------



## joshconsulting (Apr 9, 2010)

Update on my quark issues:

After a few days (likely due to the weekend), 4sevens contacted me. After a few minutes of back-and-forth discussion, they agreed to send me a new one. The replacement shipped on the same day, and I'm holding it now - perfect beam and tint etc. etc., just the same as my old one (on its way back to 4Sevens).

Every run of lights has a few bad eggs, the measure of a company is how well they handle those issues, and 4Sevens did great. For all I know washing machines could be harder on lights then I thought, but either way they set me up with a replacement that was shipped on the same buisness day. Great job, I'm again a happy customer (and I intend to get one for a friend's birthday )

TL;DR - Light broke, 4sevens replaced almost instantly with minimal fuss even though they didn't have to (warranty doesn't cover physical damage).


----------



## PCC (Apr 10, 2010)

As some of you folks may know, I gave my MiNi AA to my daughter and ordered a MiNi 123 to replace it this past Wednesday. It arrived today! That little light crossed the country in just a few days time. I also ordered a MiNi AA for my brother who really liked my MiNi AA

A few observations about this new MiNi 123: the box that it came in is different from the box that my MiNi AA came in. The MiNi 123 screws down with a light touch then stops but the light is not on. Tightening it a bit more turns the light on. I really like this as it should prevent me from accidentally turning the light on in my pocket. I could also turn the head until it stops then do the pressing thingy to cycle through the modes until I am one more cycle from my preferred mode at which point I just twist the head to lock it in. This little sucker is bright! At times I would have a difficult time determining whether I've reached "high" or not with the AA but I definitely know when I'm on high with the 123. The tint of the light is more of a pure white than the greenish tint of the AA. This is apparent when white wall hunting on low with both lights in my hands. The low setting on both lights are about the same and the medium of the 123 just beats the AA's output by a hair while the high setting is no contest. Overall, I'm quite happy with this little light. My daughter wants this one but I'm putting my foot down and telling her "no" for now


----------



## Monocrom (Apr 11, 2010)

PCC said:


> . . . My daughter wants this one but I'm putting my foot down and telling her "no" for now


 
Well, now you know what to get her for her Birthday.

Perhaps get her the Ti version. (I know I love mine!) :thumbsup:


----------



## BleedingEdge (Apr 11, 2010)

the.Mtn.Man said:


> By the way, David, you really need to consider making a clip for the Qmini.



Hi all! 
I am new to CPF and didn't realize it before...but...I'm a flashaholic.
A lumenholic too, *sigh*.

I am very minimalist with my keyring(s). My car key does not live on a ring for several reasons. My house key lives on a small ring with only my mailbox key. If I need another key (eg, bike lock key), I temporarily clip it to my house key ring or a belt loop, then remove it again later.

I am a clip guy. All my pocket knives have a clip, all my pocket lights have a clip. 

So...I really like the QMini 123, especially the Ti version, but will never wear it on a key ring. I would really like a clip for it, but I simply cannot read 39 pages (!) to find out if anyone has a clip solution. I *apologize *for being so lazy, but there is so much I want to read here at CPF!

Is there a clip for the QMini 123? Is there a clip for the QMini Ti 123?

Thanks so much!


----------



## pobox1475 (Apr 11, 2010)

> Is there a clip for the QMini 123? Is there a clip for the QMini Ti 123?


 My set-up for Ti Mini AA consists of a small fishing swivel connected to a size 0 S-Biner. I do not trust the gates of the Biner for key use, but it works perfectly clipped to corner of front pants pocket keeping the light comfortably suspended within pocket.

http://www.niteize.com/collections/s-biner/products/s-biner-stainless-steel-1











*The Biner I used before the tiny S. Nite Ize is more discrete.*


----------



## Chauncey Gardner (Apr 11, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> There are lots of lights with just as good a beam pattern and I'm sure you'll soon find which ones they are, but the Quarks are some of the first reliably affordable lights to offer one.


 
Messing around last night with the new Bitz ti side by side with the ti Mini 123 and the beam is very, very similar. The Bitz's P4 is more neutral, but pattern is very close.

That is a huge compliment to the Quark given the regard the Bitz has around here.


----------



## kaichu dento (Apr 12, 2010)

They definitely both possess what is arguably the perfect balanced beam pattern for a standard EDC.


----------



## carrot (Apr 12, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> They definitely both possess what is arguably the perfect balanced beam pattern for a standard EDC.


Damn right. I love the beams on the Quark Minis.


----------



## kaichu dento (Apr 12, 2010)

carrot said:


> Damn right. I love the beams on the Quark Minis.


It sure is nice being able to buy a light for such a low price that has a beam pattern to die for when just a short time back we were being told to ignore the xr-e rings!


----------



## joshconsulting (Apr 12, 2010)

I completely agree with the perfect beam pattern. I find it the best possible way to demonstrate to minimag incan users just what is wrong with their lights.

Yesterday evening, we had a campfire with some friends. As the fire was dying we all decided to have a campfire singing; one of my friends played guitar, so he brought sheet music to play on. It was around 11 AM, far too dark to see anything besides faint light from the campfire, so he had a friend with a minimag incan shine the light on the music so he could read. It was possibly the worst use of a flashlight I've ever seen. Minimags have two focus options - a very tight dot that's sort of bright in the center, and a 'donught' of light that projects a beam with an almost dark-center surrounded by a narrow, bright ring of light and virtually no sidespill. When partially de-focused on a wall a few feet away, you get a donugh hole 2-3 feet across with almost no light, then a few inch wide ring of reasonably bright light tapering off into very little spill.

With that said, you can imagine how the minimag worked - no matter how he played with the focus, there was either a small bright dot that only lit up a 1-2 inch circle on an 8.5x11" paper, or a donught hole that sort of lit up the edges and left the center almost dark. He ended up focusing it into a dot and FOLLOWING ALONG WITH THE MUSIC. That's right, the minimag was incapable of lighting up a white sheet of paper 6 inches square from two feet away on an almost pitch-black night.

At this point, I pulled out my MiNi, covered the front with my hand while I bumped it into high (I like to make a sudden impression), and shone it on the paper. It light up the whole firepit, the paper, and a circle surrounding our area 10 feet around. It was quite blinding to anyone looking at the paper. I ended up using it on low thanks to the amazing beam pattern - it was the perfect size when sitting next to the guitar player, and illuminated the paper perfectly while being dim enough that it didn't bother anyone else.

Probably the first time in my life I really found low mode helpful, and it demonstrated the benefits of a good beam pattern to all present (as well as the benefits of several hundred lumens )

TL;DR: Friend was reading music around a campfire, minimag incan incapable of lighting up a sheet of paper thanks to horrible beam pattern, MiNi123 on low demonstrated how a similar-brightness light could be far more useful with a good beam pattern.


----------



## Vesper (Apr 12, 2010)

Sorry if this has already been asked - I skimmed through the thread looking...

Any news of the carry ring wearing or pulling through the thin aluminum loop hole? Mine (mini 123) is just hair thin and doesn't look too reliable and able to take much wear. Hopefully just paranoid. Thanks.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Apr 12, 2010)

Vesper said:


> Any news of the carry ring wearing or pulling through the thin aluminum loop hole? Mine (mini 123) is just hair thin and doesn't look too reliable and able to take much wear. Hopefully just paranoid. Thanks.



I don't think this has happened yet. Don't believe this is very likely to happen in normal use.

Geoff


----------



## 4sevens (Apr 12, 2010)

Flying Turtle said:


> I don't think this has happened yet. Don't believe this is very likely to happen in normal use.
> 
> Geoff


I doubt that will happen too. I probably have the most worn one since I've had the protos since day one.

Besides if it does happen we'll replace the body for you.


----------



## Vesper (Apr 12, 2010)

4sevens said:


> I doubt that will happen too. I probably have the most worn one since I've had the protos since day one.
> 
> Besides if it does happen we'll replace the body for you.



Thanks for the info, and as usual a big :thumbsup:


----------



## carrot (Apr 12, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> It sure is nice being able to buy a light for such a low price that has a beam pattern to die for when just a short time back we were being told to ignore the xr-e rings!


Oh yeah, absolutely. For a long while you had to pay serious top dollar to get a beautiful beam (IMHO the McGizmo reflectors still have unparalleled beam quality) but with 4sevens on the scene we have been enjoying really nice, smooth beams with large extremely usable hotspots.

Good old Cree rings, won't miss them but I'll still remember the fuss they caused.


----------



## vali (Apr 12, 2010)

I dont think we have ringless beams nowadays because of 4sevens, but because of the change from XR-E to XP-E and later to XP-G.

As a curious note, the best beam I ever saw with an XR-E is from a SAIK RC-A3 cheapo. Its like a XP-G, big hotspot and no rings.Maybe an oddity


----------



## f22shift (Apr 12, 2010)

yeah i agree. i think the emitters helped. one thing that 4sevens did was have an alignment piece in the manufacturing. i'm not sure if they started it all but when they did, i felt it became the benchmark.
but yeah the emitters help because one my maratac aaa has an off emitter but it's still a clean beamshot.

so i do think they are sort of "redefining" flashlights by setting these benchmarks that other manufacturers are following or copying  am i wrong in saying 4sevens started the square thread trend?(although never had a problem with regular threads)


----------



## carrot (Apr 12, 2010)

The Square threads certainly are an improvement... I have a friend who was in such a hurry he stripped the threads off the tail AND body of his L2S...


----------



## kaichu dento (Apr 12, 2010)

carrot said:


> Oh yeah, absolutely. For a long while you had to pay serious top dollar to get a beautiful beam (IMHO the McGizmo reflectors still have unparalleled beam quality) but with 4sevens on the scene we have been enjoying really nice, smooth beams with large extremely usable hotspots.
> 
> Good old Cree rings, won't miss them but I'll still remember the fuss they caused.


I never realized how much thanks was owed McGizmo for ring-free beams until Jonathan told me that he'd been instrumental in the excellent beam coming from the xr-e equipped Drake and Draco!

I have never seen one of Don's lights in person but I am in love with the beam pattern coming out of all my xp-g equipped MiNi's and can't wait to add a couple more next week!


vali said:


> I dont think we have ringless beams nowadays because of 4sevens, but because of the change from XR-E to XP-E and later to XP-G.
> 
> As a curious note, the best beam I ever saw with an XR-E is from a SAIK RC-A3 cheapo. Its like a XP-G, big hotspot and no rings.Maybe an oddity


It's been noted before, but the cause of the rings from the xr-e were due to poor matching of reflector to emitter. That's why there are no 'Cree rings' from the Drake, Draco and the EZ series from Nitecore, even though they all use the xr-e.


----------



## BlindingL5 (Apr 13, 2010)

Received my Mini AA last week. Love the output on it! Simple enough UI like everyone's been saying. Loved everything about it except for the split ring, so I replaced it with a 6mm ring, as noted on the thread. Feels so much more secure on my key chain now. :thumbsup:


----------



## EPVQ30 (Apr 13, 2010)

will the mini coming up on 4/15 be far superior than the current model? looking at the specs the original seems more compelling.


----------



## paulr (Apr 14, 2010)

The only mini I see coming up on 4/15 is the cr2 model. Its output and operation should be about the same as the cr123a version. It's just a little bit smaller and with less runtime because of the smaller battery. I'd say go with the 123 over the cr2 unless you're really after the absolute smallest light.


----------



## shark_za (Apr 14, 2010)

I never had a pressing need for a Quark Mini as I have all three iTP's.
Till now. 

I'll place my order for the CR2 tonight.


----------



## HarveyRich (Apr 14, 2010)

> *Originally posted by PaulR:*
> The only mini I see coming up on 4/15 is the cr2 model. Its output and operation should be about the same as the cr123a version. It's just a little bit smaller and with less runtime because of the smaller battery. I'd say go with the 123 over the cr2 unless you're really after the absolute smallest light.


Personally, I find the mini 123 to be too fat for a pocket EDC. I've been carrying the Nitecore EZ Cr2 as it is only about 0.7 in wide. The MiNi Cr2 will be 0.45 in shorter, but 0.75 in wide (so slightly wider). However, it will be thinner than the MiNi 123, which is 0.8 in wide and 2.4 in long. This difference in thickness may seem small, but I like thin for my pocket. It also will have at least 50 more lumens than the Nitecore EZ Cr2. At any rate, in theory, it sounds like a very nice pocket EDC.


----------



## kaichu dento (Apr 14, 2010)

HarveyRich said:


> Personally, I find the mini 123 to be too fat for a pocket EDC. I've been carrying the Nitecore EZ Cr2 as it is only about 0.7 in wide. The MiNi Cr2 will be 0.45 in shorter, but 0.75 in wide (so slightly wider). However, it will be thinner than the MiNi 123, which is 0.8 in wide and 2.4 in long. This difference in thickness may seem small, but I like thin for my pocket. It also will have at least 50 more lumens than the Nitecore EZ Cr2. At any rate, in theory, it sounds like a very nice pocket EDC.


I only have a couple 123 lights because of their inherent fatness and even though the MiNi CR2 feels fat due to it's shortness, the grip cup created by the slim waist and raised areas both fore and aft makes it cradle in your fingers like no other light I own!


----------



## shark_za (Apr 14, 2010)

Done. 

Ordered 10x 47's CR2's that will last a while too.
Cant hurt to get some CR123's either.


----------



## Monocrom (Apr 14, 2010)

shark_za said:


> Done.
> 
> Ordered 10x 47's CR2's that will last a while too.
> Can't hurt to get some CR123's either.


 
While I love my Ti Quark Mini CR123 model, I don't like that the 4sevens brand cells are Made in China. Made in China cells have been responsible for some pretty bad flashlight explosions. To me, the risk just isn't worth it.


----------



## the.Mtn.Man (Apr 14, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> There are lots of lights with just as good a beam pattern and I'm sure you'll soon find which ones they are, but the Quarks are some of the first reliably affordable lights to offer one.


Yep. That's why I own a Quark and not one of those other brands!


----------



## 4sevens (Apr 14, 2010)

Monocrom said:


> Made in China cells have been responsible for some pretty bad flashlight explosions. To me, the risk just isn't worth it.


Let's not turn this into another china vs usa thread. As a counterpoint, you would be surprised how many quality cells are made in china. AND how many USA made cells fail and rupture and leak. We've had tons of reports of the panasonic lithiums made in USA that we sold are leaking just sitting by themselves in a ziplock back. I have proof that people sent back to us here in my office.

I firmly believe that you cannot dictate a product's quality simply by it's assembly or manufacturing origin. It's actually depending on WHO actually is running the show. Case in point Apple Computers. I know for a fact that our cells meet or exceed our USA counterparts. Probably the problems you imply were from cheaply made cells by cheap or non-existent companies that took major shortcuts (i.e. NO PTC). A significant part of the cost of our cells is the PTC. I see why people omit them because they increases their profit margin. We DID NOT do that. We are offering a quality product at a competitive price.

One more point, your ad hominem argument is attacking the "messenger" instead of the message. If you have a specific observation about our cells then make a statement - I'm totally fine with that but don't make sweeping generalizations like, "i hear product a stinks and is made in china therefore since product b is made in china it also stinks." You're misleading people. You've said "China cells have been responsible for some pretty bad flashlight explosions." What about the multiple surefire batteries explosion incidences? Does that infer that all USA made products are bad? I think not.


----------



## the.Mtn.Man (Apr 14, 2010)

4sevens said:


> "i hear product a stinks and is made in china therefore since product b is made in china it also stinks."


Just for the record, that's not an ad hominem, it's a genetic fallacy.


----------



## shark_za (Apr 15, 2010)

Nice surprise to wake up this morning and see my order has been shipped already. Cant wait for a little CR2 version, its just exclusive enough to be a status symbol. Who wants to use commonly available cells when difficult to obtain expensive ones will do!?

On the lithium primaries, I have been using CR123 primaries for over 10 years, damn that P61, and have only had one hassle due to my own ignorant negligence. 
Chinese or American, we use what we can get in Africa.


Its great that 47's have made cells available to power their products, Boyakasha from this side !


----------



## Monocrom (Apr 15, 2010)

4sevens said:


> Let's not turn this into another china vs usa thread.


 
Nope. This isn't about that at all. I own a ton of lights Made in America, and a ton which are Made in China. While explosions from lights running multiple CR123 cells are rare, when they do happen; it's the burned out label of a Made in China cell often seen in pics on CPF. When it was discovered that a Made in China BatteryStation cell was responsible for a Pelican M6 exploding like a pipe bomb, a certain someone decided to no longer have his cells made there. BatteryStation cells are now Made in America. And have been for awhile. No reported issues at all. No more exploding flashlights. That's what counts.

My previous post has nothing to do with encouraging folks to "Buy American" and not support China. It has everything to do with manufacturing standards. They're higher in America. Plain and simple. Yes, tons of Americans want cheap goods from China. So that's what they get. China is very capable of making quality goods. Many of the lights in my collection are proof of that. But when it comes to batteries, quantity is the name of the game. Make them cheap, and make a ton of them. That's fine for AA cells . . . Not so fine for CR123 cells. (To put it mildly.)

Honestly, I was very surprised and disappointed to find that your brand of cells are made in China. Just seemed very odd considering the reported issues with CR123 cells which are Made in China. While you yourself have earned an excellent reputation on these boards, and I'm sure you insist on high standards; but unless you are in China to keep a watchful eye on the company making the CR123 cells for you . . . I feel it is only a matter of time before someone else decides to maximize profits by cutting corners.

I love my Ti Quark Mini CR123 model. (Only Titanium light I own.) And I EDC a Preon II with a Preon I tailcap. I love your lights. But there have been a few CPFers who got burned (literally!) due to cheap, Made in China, CR123 cells that vented with flame. I'd rather not take a chance on becoming one of them. I use only Made in America CR123 cells. Not out of a sense of patriotism. But out of a sense of not wanting to take even a remote chance that my favorite 2xCR123 light might explode like a bomb. 

True, the chances of that happening are rare. And there are a few simple precautions one can take to lower that chance even further. But with the lax standards found in China when it comes to making disposeable items such as batteries, one of those precautions is simply not to take a chance on Made in China cells.

I have two of your lights. I enjoy them quite a bit. I plan on adding more Quark models to my collection. But not your brand of cells. Has nothing to do with you or your company. I don't see the benefit in taking a chance with _any _Made in China, CR123 cells. We've already had one Dealer with an excellent reputation who had his cells Made in China. He switched over to having them Made in America. Again, not due to patriotic reasons.


----------



## 4sevens (Apr 15, 2010)

^^ 
Monocrom so how do you respond the following points that I will reiterate again...

1) Multiple USA MADE surefire cell explosion reports here in cpf?

2) All apple computers / lenovo-thinkpad products made in china. Are their quality standards compromised as well? Please cite empirical evidence.

3) My experience with spontaneously leaking Panasonic CR123A cells made in Georgia, USA.

4) Your attack on my products - but not based on specific observations about my products but based on your generalizations/stereotyping. Your statements hurt our company and is lacks clinical/empirical evidence specific to our products.

Please respond to these four points....

I honestly believe that your statements MAY be true in SOME cases but it's not ALWAYS the case. 
Just because object A is the blue and lightweight doesn't make object B also lightweight just because it's blue.

Why am I trying to provide a counter-point? We spend countless hours traveling, searching for, auditing, and working with battery suppliers to find the right factory that 1) makes the highest capacity cell and 2) meets our safety and standards requirements. Then we went through several prototype/testing phases, take apart each cell and studying the construction and making sure they meet our standards. Then we as we receive production cells, we continue to check and make sure we get the same cell with the same standards as the prototypes we approved to go into production. Believe me this was no small feat. 

Honestly, I'm disappointed (and hurt) by your statements. You're entitled to your opinion and that's not what I'm struggling against. What I'm struggling against is just that your accusations (your disappointment) is baseless. No specific evidence about our product - just generalizations.


----------



## was.lost.but.now.found (Apr 15, 2010)

David since you are citing these issues with Surefire, can you (or someone else) share a link to a thread where Surefire batteries exploded due their own internal fault and not due to user error such as a short or unmatched batteries? I have been searching and cannot find one.


----------



## 4sevens (Apr 15, 2010)

was.lost.but.now.found said:


> David since you are citing these issues with Surefire, can you (or someone else) share a link to a thread where Surefire batteries exploded due their own internal fault and not due to user error such as a short or unmatched batteries? I have been searching and cannot find one.


I don't have specific links on hand (I don't collect the links) but try searching some more. They are there. However, I never stated that it was their fault. Whatever the cause of the explosions whether user or manufacturer fault may not conclusive (see the threads) AND is not relevant to what monocrom and I are talking about. Monocrom cited the country of origin as the CAUSE which is not the case. Thus my counterpoint using a case where USA made cells also having problems.


----------



## TECENG (Apr 15, 2010)

Monocrom,

No disrespect intended (honestly), but do you have first hand experience with manufacturing in China? Reality is quite different than perception and what the news/media/forum posts imply. Also, a random sampling of accident reports do not tell the whole story.

I do know that much of this depends upon the manufacturer and whether or not they will maintain their quality standards, but let's not assume at some point they WILL intentionally cut corners to make more profit. It's not country related, it's company related. I do have first hand experience in this area and it is a very complex issue. I just hate to see anyone's name/products get questioned due to generalizations. It sounds like David is making a strong effort to ensure quality is maintained, and although there is no guarantee I feel pretty safe using his brand of batteries.

If you do have experience with manufacturing products in China, it would be great if you could elaborate to help me understand your perspective on this issue.


----------



## Monocrom (Apr 15, 2010)

4sevens said:


> ^^
> Monocrom so how do you respond the following points that I will reiterate again...
> 
> 1) Multiple USA MADE surefire cell explosion reports here in cpf?
> ...


 
1 ~ I'll admit to being horribly addicted to CPF. I recall having read only one topic in which a Surefire cell was involved in a flashlight venting with flame. I recall several in which the label on the CR123 cell was either burned beyond recognition or, when readable, was indeed a cell Made in China. I recall a particularly horrific incident in with an older Surefire 9Z exploded with the force of a pipe bomb, doing considerable damage. The light's owner was mixing and matching cells. A good possibility that two were Surefires, the last a cheaper cell Made in China. Honestly, something like that isn't what I'd consider to be a Surefire failure. While there's no proof that the cheap cell was the one that malfunctioned. This is a case of "More often than not." 

2 ~ I don't buy Apple products. Have no experience with them. But if you'll recall from my earlier post, I did mention that China is easily capable of turning out quality products. However, even in China, quality doesn't come cheap. When it comes to disposeable products, such as batteries, American consumers in general want them cheap. So, that's what they get. Unfortunately, we get that too. I've already admitted that China can and has made quality products. But that doesn't apply to disposeable products such as batteries.

3 ~ I have no experience with Panasonic cells. I have heard of counterfeit cells with Panasonic labels floating around. It's why I mainly stick to those cells that wear Surefire or Streamlight brand labels. No one is making false labels of those brands to stick on sub-standard cells. And yes, I know who makes the cells for Surefire . . . Come to think of it, I guess that means I have a ton of experience with Panasonic cells after all. Not a single issue with Panasonic cells that wear the Surefire label. I'm sure you have more experience than I do. But I want to point out that I go through a ton of mainly Surefire cells in a year.

4 ~ Attack on your products?? . . . You did notice the part in my previous post where I praised the lights that you produce, right? I just honestly don't wish to take a chance on Made in China CR123 cells. It's not something against you or your company or even China. It's about an unfortunate reputation that Made in China cells have earned in General.



> Honestly, I'm disappointed (and hurt) by your statements.


 
I'm genuinely sorry you feel that way.


----------



## Foxfyre (Apr 15, 2010)

Hi,

It would seem to me that as long as humans are making and using what they make, that occasionally good old human error will slip in and suprise us all (I'm certainly a victim of my own often enough). All we can do is just what we can to minimize risks and then go with that. :thumbsup:

I'll always trust established name brands no matter where they're made, but with my usual own cautious eye out for Murphys law. Works for me.

I love my Quark Ti minis (all three of them) and trust Davids batteries completely. 

Just one question David? How did you fit all that light into that tiny little space? :goodjob:


----------



## PCC (Apr 15, 2010)

Let's look at the venting CR123a issue from a Quark MiNi 123 point of view: the way I see it this is a non-issue because the venting of cells was caused by reverse-charging a cell from the individual cells discharging at different rates. Since the MiNi series of lights are single-cell lights this should not be an issue. Am I wrong on this?


----------



## 4sevens (Apr 15, 2010)

Monocrom said:


> 1 ...Honestly, something like that isn't what I'd consider to be a Surefire failure. While there's no proof that the cheap cell was the one that malfunctioned. This is a case of "More often than not."



Theres no clear evidence either way and based on the limited reports I don't think you can say "more often than not" with solid evidence backing that up. And I'm not talking about user error of using cells with different charge states.



Monocrom said:


> 2 ~ I don't buy Apple products. Have no experience with them. But if you'll recall from my earlier post, I did mention that China is easily capable of turning out quality products. However, even in China, quality doesn't come cheap. When it comes to disposeable products, such as batteries, American consumers in general want them cheap. So, that's what they get. Unfortunately, we get that too. I've already admitted that China can and has made quality products. But that doesn't apply to disposeable products such as batteries.



My point about apple was you can't speak definitively about the quality just by citing the source. Apple was a counterpoint to your china logic. But now you qualify your statements applying this to "disposable" products. You know most of the apple approved accessories available at the apple store are made in china and some of the stuff is REALLY good - I'd consider some of them as "disposable" accessories. Bottom line is they were designed over here by a US company but manufacturing was executed overseas.

I would argue that lots of non-disposable stuff coming from china is poor as well. It all comes down to who's the company designing, specifying what and how their products are being made. We understand and experience first-hand what are most factories like in china - and with that we are able to find the cream of the crop and push them even further to higher standards. 



Monocrom said:


> 3 ~ I have no experience with Panasonic cells. I have heard of counterfeit cells with Panasonic labels floating around.



I have ordered TENS of thousands of cr123a cells from panasonic DIRECTLY. They are not counterfeit. They were actually made in my state - Georgia! And I don't doubt as some have reported that they may make cells for surefire.



Monocrom said:


> 4 ~ Attack on your products?? . . . You did notice the part in my previous post where I praised the lights that you produce, right? I just honestly don't wish to take a chance on Made in China CR123 cells. It's not something against you or your company or even China. It's about an unfortunate reputation that Made in China cells have earned in General.



I appreciate that you like out lights. That wasn't what I was refering too. Products - meaning our batteries. I know I didn't qualify which products but in the context of this thread - it's about our cr123a batteries and possibly by inference what you said applies to our new cr2 lithium batteries too - thats what I mean by "products."

I agree with your comment in general about china. But to apply directly to our products without solid evidence - THATS what I have a problem with. It's like saying something like "people in georgia are known for ..." and then everytime you meet someone/anyone from georgia you assume they are known for the same thing. It's better to meet someone first, get to know them and then make your own observations instead of letting stereotypes come first.



Monocrom said:


> I'm genuinely sorry you feel that way.



But you understand why right? We took GREAT lengths to ensure we don't fall into those generalizations that you mentioned. But then we're judged immediately just by origin. You know that saying, "never judge a book by it's cover." I encourage you, open the book, read a few pages. You'd be surprised


----------



## kaichu dento (Apr 15, 2010)

There are three reasons I buy single cell lights. 
1) I carry so much stuff with me that I like smaller packages, but then again most of my lights put out enough to easily satisfy my needs.
2) Having gone through most of my time BC (Before CPF) looking through the house for enough batteries to feed my 3 AAA or 4 AA lights I was relieved to finally be able to keep a light going if I was able to find a battery at all!
3) After reading about what happens with mismatched batteries, which sounded like something I didn't want to experience, I saw no reason to tempt fate, and again, moot point since there are so many excellent lights that only take one cell. 

As for the Quark MiNi's, I like them. I don't find them to be perfect, but even my most expensive lights aren't perfect per se and for their price point they're damn nice. 

Three nicely matched output levels which start at low, compact package, full knurling which doesn't tear things up and beam pattern perfection!


----------



## psychbeat (Apr 15, 2010)

my only complaint with my little 123 is that
its SOOO GOOD that often I leave my SST 50 C2 at
home as the 123 with 16340 and a spare primary 
in my pack is all I need most of the time.
Id REALLY like a mini 18650 tho:devil::devil:

bummed on all of these anti china threads 
here.. remember in the 80s when made in 
Japan meant "bad"?! now with many products
(aftermarket car upgrades) made in Japan is
looked at as being tops.... 
making the blanket statement that "made in China sucks"
is prejudiced at best. Obviously 4sev took the extra 
time to make sure they were getting the best 
product price and quality wise as possible. Who
would spend so much time designing and selling 
such an awesome light only to cheap out and power
it with dangerous crap batteries. One or two bad 
battery explosions would RUIN their rep and cost 
way more than the extra profits made by corner cutting.

man.. Im depressed at even replying to this stuff... ugh
internet forums.......gonna go hide in the woods with my
lights.... ALONE!:shakehead


----------



## jorn (Apr 15, 2010)

American cars sucks. Those huge boxes of metal running on leaf spring suspensions can be dangerous on twisty icy roads. Also they fall apart for nothing. So now i have to assume everything else made in America sucks. 

I ordered 10 x 4sevens cr123 yesterday (actually my first batch of non rechargele cr123 batteries ever), and im not worried they will blow my hand off. I do not fear for my life everytime im a passanger, or see a American made car on the road either:tinfoil:


----------



## joshconsulting (Apr 15, 2010)

+1 on the 'smallest possible' 18650. I could easily deal with something larger then the 123, but all of the current 18650s are far, FAR larger and heavier. A small, lightweight 18650\2xCR123 could have, say, a 2.5A SST-50 with 500 real OTF on high, yet be smaller and lighter then any of the current 18650 lights. And you could easily charge far more, as currently we have to spend $120+ to get an 18650 assembly that has quite a few shortcomings.

[/pipedream]


----------



## Beamhead (Apr 15, 2010)

jorn said:


> American cars sucks. Those huge boxes of metal running on leaf spring suspensions can be dangerous on twisty icy roads. Also they fall apart for nothing. So now i have to assume everything else made in America sucks.


 
You best tread softly, my 24 year old box of metal with leaf springs is still running strong and just passed one of the most stringent emissions tests in the world. 
My other 2 boxes of metal are doing their duty too.:duh2:
Oh and all 3 are from an American company that hasn't taken one thin dime of barry's bailout/takeover cash.


----------



## was.lost.but.now.found (Apr 15, 2010)

Beamhead said:


> You best tread softly, my 24 year old box of metal with leaf springs is still running strong and just passed one of the most stringent emissions tests in the world.
> My other 2 boxes of metal are doing their duty too.:duh2:
> Oh and all 3 are from an American company that hasn't taken one thin dime of barry's bailout/takeover cash.


 
Thought better of it. Will just report post as appropriate procedure.


----------



## Beamhead (Apr 15, 2010)

was.lost.but.now.found said:


> Thought better of it. Will just report post as appropriate procedure.


 WTF?


----------



## was.lost.but.now.found (Apr 15, 2010)

Beamhead said:


> WTF?


 
Simply, leave the political speech for the UG.


----------



## NightKids (Apr 15, 2010)

I just received my Mini CR123 and I must say this thing is awesome! Ran it on my AWs and high is just so bright. Nothing in it between that & my TK10 and it's got better flood.

1 hand operation has been easy also.


----------



## Stress_Test (Apr 15, 2010)

Regarding the post about American cars etc. etc. 


Eh give 'em a break, and listen to some words of wisdom from an old mechanic I met years back, who's both owned and worked on more cars of *all types* than most people ever will.

His opinion? "They're ALL junk!!"


----------



## NightKids (Apr 15, 2010)

Stress_Test said:


> Regarding the post about American cars etc. etc.
> 
> 
> Eh give 'em a break, and listen to some words of wisdom from an old mechanic I met years back, who's both owned and worked on more cars of *all types* than most people ever will.
> ...


 
What is this? Horse power forums?


----------



## kaichu dento (Apr 16, 2010)

Beamhead said:


> You best tread softly, my 24 year old box of metal with leaf springs is still running strong and just passed one of the most stringent emissions tests in the world.
> My other 2 boxes of metal are doing their duty too.:duh2:
> Oh and all 3 are from an American company that hasn't taken one thin dime of barry's bailout/takeover cash.


I'm only running around with a 16 year old, but she's still hanging in there and I'm glad to say I wasn't even tempted by that ridiculous offer either! 


was.lost.but.now.found said:


> Thought better of it. Will just report post as appropriate procedure.





Beamhead said:


> WTF?


+ 1000 


was.lost.but.now.found said:


> Simply, leave the political speech for the UG.


Political speech?!? :thinking:


----------



## LightWalker (Apr 16, 2010)

:hahaha:


was.lost.but.now.found said:


> Simply, leave the political speech for the UG.


 
Go on down there, I got a speech for you.


----------



## Beamhead (Apr 16, 2010)

Gents, I understood that my one line quip upset wlbnf, that is why I didn't respond once he clarified, while I like the common thought let us get the thread back on topic, I really don't want anyone getting a time out. 

My Mini's are kickin a$$ n takin names.


----------



## was.lost.but.now.found (Apr 16, 2010)

Beamhead said:


> My Mini's are kickin a$$ n takin names.


 
Something we can agree on.:grouphug:


----------



## jorn (Apr 16, 2010)

sorry if someone got offended by my car post. I was only trying to maka a point that you cannot jugde the quality of a product only based on what country its made in. Its so easy to make generalizations. Every contry has its bad and good products.
(The average age of all the cars here in Norway is 12 years. lots of old cars here, so im not easely impressed by aging cars. The reson for such a old national average?.. well thats political for shure, so lets drop it there:laughing

Back on topic. Anyone preordered the warm quarks?
I know i will:candle: I aleredy have a neutral aa mini. im considering a warm aa mini this time, and maby a warm cr123 mini too.


----------



## psychbeat (Apr 16, 2010)

do the new warm ones have the new warm XPGs?!
might have to grab one when I get some $crilla

Hey Jorn, whats the name of that park in Oslo with 
1000s of crazy statues? Its really cool but I forgot the name..


----------



## shark_za (Apr 16, 2010)

Just about to order a WW Mini. 

I like the AA for its practical utility but the CR2 looks great on paper. 
I have a black CR2 on the way already and wonder if I will appreciate another with the warm tint?

The AA is definitely a workhorse for me as I have the recharge setup for it while the CR2 would be used less while possibly being carried more. 
The AA also seems to run on its threads better and not have the contact issues some have reported on the 123. 

AA would be the way to pump out hours and hours of warm white light for the cheapest... 

What to do?


----------



## jorn (Apr 16, 2010)

psychbeat said:


> do the new warm ones have the new warm XPGs?!
> might have to grab one when I get some $crilla
> 
> Hey Jorn, whats the name of that park in Oslo with
> 1000s of crazy statues? Its really cool but I forgot the name..



I dont know if its a xp-g, but i shure hope so. i dont own a really warm light, only neutrals, so im going for one anyway
The name of the park is frogner park.
Edt: i forgot, my m30w is kind of warm, but my m60 wlf is more neutral than warm. to be spesific the statues are in vigerlands park, its inside frogner park.*
*


----------



## shark_za (Apr 16, 2010)

Did the only sane thing. 

Both.


----------



## jorn (Apr 16, 2010)

Oh yeah its a xp-g:twothumbs
From 4sevens site: 
"This is a VERY special limited run (possibly the only run) Cree XP-G Warm White version. The exact bins used will be either 7A3 or 7B4 with a Q5 flux. Sorry will not be able to tell you which bin is used - it will just be either one or the other."

warming up finger, checking all systems, paypal is locked, loaded and ready to fire. Now I just have to deside exactly what light(s) i want to go for:twothumbs


----------



## Beamhead (Apr 16, 2010)

jorn, my reply was tongue in cheek even if it appeared weak in its execution.


----------



## jorn (Apr 16, 2010)

Beamhead said:


> jorn, my reply was tongue in cheek even if it appeared weak in its execution.



English is not my native laungage, so im not always picking up sutch things If it werent for hollywood movies, my english would have been just as bad as my german. Probably the first english words i learned to pronounce was something like: "ill be back"."

Just preordered a warm quark mini aa, and a warm quark turbo aa2. Some days ago i ordered a fenix tk20 and 10 x cr123. David must have a black belt in seducing my paypal finger
All airtraffic in scandinavia has stopped due to a big cloud of ash coming from the active volcano on iceland. I just hope that volcano can take a break, or the wind blows a different direction so my stuff can arrive witout delay


----------



## the.Mtn.Man (Apr 16, 2010)

Why are some people so enamored with warm lights? Is it nostalgia, or some other reason?


----------



## psychbeat (Apr 16, 2010)

^^^^

cant say for warm, but the more neutral tints help with
depth perception on wooded trails for me as they make
the browns and greens have more contrast than with
the cooler tints YMMV of course.

Im assuming the warm is the same tho
Id miss the lost lumens personally.

warms nicer to read by Id say - thats what
Id want a warm for.


----------



## Swedpat (Apr 16, 2010)

the.Mtn.Man said:


> Why are some people so enamored with warm lights? Is it nostalgia, or some other reason?



I would like to say it's simply because warm tint is so more comfortable and relaxed for the eyes. In my opinion.

Regards, Patric


----------



## LaughingHunter (Apr 17, 2010)

hi,

first post here. 

i was about to pull the trigger on a fenix e01 when i came across the quark mini. 

so i was reading this thread up till page 14 and my eyes went @[email protected]

the fact is that i'm pretty sold on the quark mini. 

but i just can't decide between the 3 versions: aa, 123 or cr2

well, of cos, with the aa, i have much less lumens (which means less bragging rights). but the advantage is that the batteries are really easy to find.

i think i'd like the 123 best. but it seems like the problem about the play is very common on the 123. and i'm holding back now because of this problem.

the couple of threads started on the cr2 suggested that the play issue is not present. but i'm not too sure, it being recently available...

sorry for the awfully lengthy first post, but i'd need some advice here. 
or maybe i just need some support to click the CHECK OUT button.


----------



## Monocrom (Apr 17, 2010)

psychbeat said:


> bummed on all of these anti china threads
> here...
> 
> making the blanket statement that "made in China sucks"
> ...


 
I believe David understood the points I was trying to get across. (Even if I didn't do a good job getting them across.) And, he raised some excellent points himself. I have no animosity towards David. You don't get a great reputation like the one he enjoys without having earned it. It seems clear to me that he understood my concerns, and has no animosity towards me. Here's something I'd like to point out to you . . . 

I never made a blanket statement that all Made in China products suck. In fact, just the opposite. There was no wide-scale bashing of China in my previous posts. I will agree with you that sometimes it's depressing replying to certain things on an internet forum. . . For example replying to a post made by someone who clearly didn't take the time to carefully read what was posted previously.


----------



## compasillo (Apr 17, 2010)

LaughingHunter said:


> hi,
> 
> first post here.
> 
> ...



Welcome CPF LH :welcome:

I've just solved that dilema purchasing the three models.
All of them are absolutely great (though I haven't received the CR2 yet).
Regarding the play issue with the 123 I have to say that's not my case 
in any of the two lights I own, to the contrary they have very well machined threads.
Not play at all. 
I've been EDCing the mini AA with a 14500 for a couple months and it's been
perfect. Now I've changed to a 123 and it's perfect too. 

So I'm just awaiting at this moment for my CR2 wich I'm pretty sure it's gonna be 
my next right pocket EDC (leaving the left one for my Maratac AAA/D10 and LF2XT...)

From my experience, the Qmini series from 4Sevens is a must have for everybody.


----------



## psychbeat (Apr 17, 2010)

Monocrom said:


> While I love my Ti Quark Mini CR123 model, I don't like that the 4sevens brand cells are Made in China. Made in China cells have been responsible for some pretty bad flashlight explosions. To me, the risk just isn't worth it.



guess I read this wrong then- there had been a few
anti china threads recently and I was afraid this one
was going in that direction... and I LIKE this thread
AND my MINI123 A LOT!! 

so its all gud and I aint mad at cha!:twothumbs


----------



## the.Mtn.Man (Apr 17, 2010)

psychbeat said:


> cant say for warm, but the more neutral tints help with
> depth perception on wooded trails for me as they make
> the browns and greens have more contrast than with
> the cooler tints YMMV of course.





Swedpat said:


> I would like to say it's simply because warm tint is so more comfortable and relaxed for the eyes. In my opinion.


I prefer a whiter light myself. A warm or "neutral" light appears too dim to my eyes. I was just curious why some people seem to go nuts for them.


----------



## Monocrom (Apr 17, 2010)

psychbeat said:


> so its all gud and I aint mad at cha!:twothumbs


 
Good to know.  lovecpf


----------



## qip (Apr 17, 2010)

i just added nyogel 760 to thicken up things and its much better less play


----------



## Tuikku (Apr 17, 2010)

I have been stalking for small 47 lights a while now. CR123 is nice but IMO a bit too chubby for pants pocket or keychain.

AAA is nice size for me, maybe even AA.
CR2 would have kind of benefits from them both but its a bit odd size.
where can you get rechargeable CR2 or is it even safe to use them in mini?


----------



## Zendude (Apr 18, 2010)

Selfbuilt put up a review of the MiNi's.

Runtime on high for alkies and L91s were outstanding.:rock: I love these lights!:kiss:


----------



## tsask (Apr 18, 2010)

Tuikku said:


> I have been stalking for small 47 lights a while now. CR123 is nice but IMO a bit too chubby for pants pocket or keychain.
> 
> AAA is nice size for me, maybe even AA.
> CR2 would have kind of benefits from them both but its a bit odd size.
> where can you get rechargeable CR2 or is it even safe to use them in mini?


 
Try AW for the RCR2 cell. I have been running my Lummi raw on a RCR2 for a couple years, mainly alternating 2 cells. SO far so good!
I highy reccomend giving it a try!


----------



## bondr006 (Apr 18, 2010)

I don't believe AW makes the protected RCR2 cells any more. I wish he did, and hope he decides to now that there are so many CR2 lights out there. I have an EZ CR2 and now a Mini CR2, and the only lithium rechargeables I would consider safe running in them is an AW RCR2 protected cell. I run AW protected cells in all my AA and CR123/18650 lights, and have never had a problem. 
Please AW....start producing RCR2 protected cells again...


----------



## Monocrom (Apr 18, 2010)

bondr006 said:


> I don't believe AW makes the protected RCR2 cells any more. I wish he did, and hope he decides to now that there are so many CR2 lights out there. I have an EZ CR2 and now a Mini CR2 . . .


 
Just curious . . . Which one do you like better?


----------



## bondr006 (Apr 18, 2010)

Monocrom said:


> Just curious . . . Which one do you like better?



I like them both, and they are both great lights with excellent build quality....but if I had to pick one, it would be the Qmini CR2 for the UI. With the EZ you have two levels, and when you are on high you have to go back through low to turn the light all the way off. With the Qmini, it's either on or off. I also like having 3 levels to choose from for the times when low is not enough and high is too much. The Qmini is also shorter and has a nicer beam profile. I still can't believe I got something this nice for so little $$. A huge thumbs up to David for this fine lighting instrument. :twothumbs


----------



## Monocrom (Apr 18, 2010)

SWEET!

Thanks for the reply.


----------



## GarageBoy (Apr 18, 2010)

I like that we will shun made in china cells, but not think twice about AWs...


----------



## steven252000 (Apr 18, 2010)

Been lurking around for a bit and thought several times I had decided on which light I was gonna get only to read alittle more and change my mind back and forth several times over  I think I have decided on getting a Quark AA due to the flexibility of being able to buy different tubes and swap between aa, aa2, 123, etc. My purchase of said light will probably come sometime next month as a birthday present to myself. However in the mean time I just purchased a Quark mini aa for my dad for his birthday. I thought it would be the perfect gift for him after he came to my house to help with some plumbing issues and broke out a tiny Dorcy light (aa or maybe aaa) and the output was a joke. So.....I gave him the light yesterday and today I spoke to him and he said "I really like that light alot!!" He further advised me that the mini aa on low was about the same brightness of the Dorcy he had been using :laughing:. So now I am excited about buying myself one but just need to decide tactical, turbo, and which flashlight as far as AA, AA2 etc I want to get first. Can you lock the momentary on function out on the tactical? I am just worried that I will accidentally activate it and run a battery down without knowing it. I have a Surefire 6R which is being used in its 123 x 2 form right now and its very easy to activate the momentary on switch.


----------



## Monocrom (Apr 19, 2010)

GarageBoy said:


> I like that we will shun made in china cells, but not think twice about AWs...


 
Well, once again, reputation is everything. AW rechargeable cells are the best out there. They've been around long enough that there's no question about that.


----------



## joshconsulting (Apr 19, 2010)

Monocrom said:


> Well, once again, reputation is everything. AW rechargeable cells are the best out there. They've been around long enough that there's no question about that.



Yes, but one is a country and one is a person...


----------



## carrot (Apr 19, 2010)

Monocrom said:


> Well, once again, reputation is everything. AW rechargeable cells are the best out there. They've been around long enough that there's no question about that.


Doesn't 4sevens also have your trust?

I have been using 4sevens cells in a great variety of lights and I have had no problems, including 4-serial in my Olight. I only bought one batch however, because the next time I bought more batteries I could get Surefire batteries for cheaper.


----------



## bondr006 (Apr 19, 2010)

Monocrom said:


> Well, once again, reputation is everything.





carrot said:


> Doesn't 4sevens also have your trust?




+1 on that. If 4Sevens doesn't have an impeccable reputation around here, who does? If David has told us that he has ensured the quality of his products, hasn't his word earned our trust after all these years? :shrug:


----------



## LaughingHunter (Apr 28, 2010)

Just got mine today. 123-Ti
It's a great light. Didn't have the issue of thread play which I was worried about. 

But just a quick question. 
I was playing around and I realised on HIGH mode, I can feel the flash light warm up in about 20 seconds. I didn't want to risk anything and so switched it off before anything else can happen. (Warm enough for me to detect a change in the temperature, but not hot)

Is it supposed to be like this? It's my first proper light so I'm not sure what to expect. I'm just using the 4Sevens battery that came with the light. 

If it's normal, it means I can just continue using it even though it's warm?

The light also came with a small tube of red "Deoxit". May I know what is it for?


----------



## Zendude (Apr 28, 2010)

:welcome:

Yes, it is normal for the light to get quite warm. You're pumping out a lot of light!

Deoxit removes the oxidation on electrical contacts.


----------



## LaughingHunter (Apr 28, 2010)

Thanks! 

That put my mind at ease and now I can go back into my wardrobe to play with my light. :candle:


----------



## carrot (Apr 28, 2010)

The point at which you should turn off the light is around 140F, which is just about the same temperature where heat goes from discomfort to burning your skin. So if your Quark becomes more than uncomfortable to hold, then you should turn it off, otherwise it and the electronics are safe.


----------



## HeyGuysWatchThis (May 10, 2010)

*Unintended consequences...*

Here's an interesting observation about a mod I did with my Mini 123. I superglued a small neodymium magnet into my 123 inside the tube under the spring. It was really cool, the magnet was just strong enough to hold the light attached to a surface. 

Now for the unintended (and quite surprising to me) consequences. It made the inductor whine exponentially louder! Without the magnet, it was barely audible on medium if I put the light right up against my ear. With the magnet it was easily audible on low and downright obnoxious, almost unbearable, on medium. So just to confirm my observations, I took the magnet back out, and the inductor whine went back to the previous barely audible on medium state. 

Anybody got any idea why I got that result? Maybe the magnet was causing the driver board to be compressed?


----------



## compasillo (May 10, 2010)

Talking about mods...

Here is my bicolor Qm 123. Just bare Al & black


----------



## psychbeat (May 10, 2010)

^^^^oooh i like that!

did u easy off the batt tube?


----------



## compasillo (May 10, 2010)

psychbeat said:


> ^^^^oooh i like that!
> 
> did u easy off the batt tube?




It's a very easy mod with a NaOH solution... 
Few minutes, scrub a bit with a cloth, apply a little polish and "Voila". 

Pity the LE is firmly glued and I will not run the risk of ruining it.


----------



## paulr (May 10, 2010)

A tube of Deoxit _came with the light_??? I wonder if that's an accident. Deoxit is great stuff but it's quite expensive. If they are really shipping a tube each each light, does that say something bad about the reliability of the contacts? Mine didn't come with a tube of Deoxit.


----------



## compasillo (May 11, 2010)

paulr said:


> A tube of Deoxit _came with the light_??? I wonder if that's an accident. Deoxit is great stuff but it's quite expensive. If they are really shipping a tube each each light, does that say something bad about the reliability of the contacts? Mine didn't come with a tube of Deoxit.



I think it was limited offer to liquidate a stock of Deoxit Red... I received them with my flashlights,
but I've never had to use it since I got my Qminis so there's no
problem with the contacts.


----------



## toughCookie (May 17, 2010)

Just a quick question, would it be possible to add some tritium vials on the tail of the Mini? i.e either side of where the lanyard clip hole is? If so, what's the size?


----------



## Flying Turtle (May 17, 2010)

I suppose with the right tools it would be possible to drill (mill?) a pit for a trit. The thickness of the aluminum could present a problem.

Geoff


----------



## HeyGuysWatchThis (May 17, 2010)

Flying Turtle said:


> I suppose with the right tools it would be possible to drill (mill?) a pit for a trit. The thickness of the aluminum could present a problem.
> 
> Geoff


 
I think he means to simply epoxy the vials next to the lanyard attachment point. Not sure how strong that would be.


----------



## toughCookie (May 17, 2010)

HeyGuysWatchThis said:


> I think he means to simply epoxy the vials next to the lanyard attachment point. Not sure how strong that would be.


 
Yep, that's what I meant, sorry for the confusion. Isn't Norland strong enough, for two small vials on either side?


----------



## strinq (May 17, 2010)

After using this light for a couple of months as a keychain light, i have a few comments:

1. No problem with the UI and ease of use, no problems with mode changes etc and i do use it quite often.

2. Ano is bad. Lots of chips even though i didn't really abuse it and maybe only dropped it once. The Liteflux LF2XT on the other hand is crazy good. Dozens of drops, with rougher use etc and it's ano is really really good. The ring hole connecting to the keys show quite a bit of wear. And the aluminium is bent quite badly there showing that a 'softer than usual' aluminium used in Quark lights. I say this because again, no such wear on the Liteflux. BUT I will say this, it still is good enough for drops and knocks etc. It may be softer than usual but still strong enough for most abuse. 

3. Realised that I prefer something a little thinner. Personally think that AAA lights are the best for keychain carry, this light is still a little too fat to be comfortable. After the few months and still i find it a little uncomfortable. But a 250 lumens blast from this little thing makes it worth it.


----------



## Midnight Oil (May 19, 2010)

Just purchased (2) Mini AAs as last-minute gifts, one for my cousin and another for his friend who will be graduating this Friday.

I know what I was buying, but I still have to say it. Though the emitter is XPG and the beam is clean and bright, for $37, the Mini AA should have much thicker walls and at least a clicky switch. I had to put Post-it notes on the lights' packaging to warn their owners not to sit on them, and I can already picture them turning on without their owners' knowledge because they're operated via twisting.

The whole light just feels so flimsy. I was afraid of pinching it lest I dent the body. Echoing another member's comment: the packaging could have been more plain and the body of the light more robust.

Overall, the light is not worth its price, but since I purchased the two lights as gifts, which is a one-time thing, whatever.


----------



## 4sevens (May 19, 2010)

Midnight oil - I think you underestimate the strength of T6061 aluminum alloy. I've run over the mini's with my car without a problem. I seriously doubt you can crush it with two fingers unless you're superhuman. If you're not happy return it - you're not obligated to keep it.

As far as accidental turn on - if you turn 120 degrees (1/3 turn) and it still turns on then it needs to be returned for an exchange. We've had people send the light back because they expected an 1/5 turn to turn off the light. Again, if you're not happy, no need to harbor bad feelings - send it back and we'll make it right with either an exchange or a refund.

-David


----------



## carrot (May 19, 2010)

It used to be "common knowledge" that clickies are more prone to accidental activation than twisties. 

I think that all the problems you perceive with the MiNi is just that, perception, not reality.


----------



## pobox1475 (May 20, 2010)

Totally happy with my Ti AA now. Had issues where it would stay on all the way until connection was broken by removing head. Assume it was a lube on the circuit board issue because after a thorough cleaning it works just fine. Gladly will make do with twisting to achieve the compact form factor it affords. Can not speak for the alox Mini's, but my 123 and 123x2 Aluminum neutrals are now family jewels.


----------



## Midnight Oil (May 20, 2010)

David,

Is that 6061-T6 aluminum alloy? If so, I retract my earlier statement and *sincerely apologize*, because that WILL take superhuman strength to yield it.

If it's 6061-O aluminum alloy, with a yield stress of 8 ksi, then that's a different story. I had read that someone thought the aluminum was soft and assumed that it couldn't be the T6 alloy.

When you drove your car over it, was it with or without the battery in the body?

If it was without the battery, then I guess one CAN sit on it and not deform it.

As for returning them, that's not possible. They're 30,000 ft in the air right now! Even if I still had them, I would not return them, because I had known about the thin walls and the twisty before I made the purchase, and, as I mentioned, they're gifts. 

There are no hard feelings. *Heck, your products were the first thing I thought of when I decided to shop for gifts.*

Again, if the light is made out of 6061-T6 and you drove a car over the empty body, I do apologize.

Carrot,

I guess I've not come across a super-soft clicky, so it's hard for me to imagine how a clicky, especially if it's a recessed one (yes I know I wasn't specific in my original post) can be easier to activate than a twisty. I think the sliding action of clothing created by the wearer's movements will more likely create a twisting action than a pushing action.

Common knowledge? Well, I'm just an uncommon person.


----------



## 4sevens (May 20, 2010)

Midnight Oil said:


> David
> Is that 6061-T6 aluminum alloy? If so, I retract my earlier statement and *sincerely apologize*, because that WILL take superhuman strength to yield it.
> 
> If it's 6061-O aluminum alloy, with a yield stress of 8 ksi, then that's a different story. I had read that someone thought the aluminum was soft and assumed that it couldn't be the T6 alloy.
> ...


Yes it's 6061. I drove over the mini123 without batteries. Yes there are some who commented that it's soft but not from destructive tests - I don't know how can people can know without testing the material - maybe they're basing their personal experience from aluminum foil 

Anyway, no worries at all. Some have said they're worried about the keychain attachment point being too thin. I've carrying mine on my keychain for months without problem. Have said in the past and will say it again, if the key wears though in the next 10 years we'll send you a replacement. No worries guys.


----------



## Midnight Oil (May 20, 2010)

David,

Out of curiosity, have you driven your car over the mini AA without the battery. That's what I got for my cousin and his friend.

Thanks.


----------



## 4sevens (May 20, 2010)

Midnight Oil said:


> David,
> 
> Out of curiosity, have you driven your car over the mini AA without the battery. That's what I got for my cousin and his friend.
> 
> Thanks.


No I have not but the wall thickness should be close to the qmini 123. Since it's a smaller diameter it should be even stronger. I wouldn't worry another millisecond about it


----------



## vali (May 20, 2010)

My only concern about durability on the minis is the keychain hole, not the tube itself. I noticed the anodized were a bit worn out using the original split ring, but now I am using some kind of cord and no worries at all.


----------



## 4sevens (May 20, 2010)

I've had mine on my keychain for almost 6 months with no problem. 
I'm confident enough that it will be no problem that if it ever wears out in ten years we'll replace it.


----------



## paulr (May 20, 2010)

4sevens said:


> Yes it's 6061. I drove over the mini123 without batteries.



What does that signify? It only puts about 32 psi of force (or whatever your tire inflation pressure is) on the light. Dropping a heavy rigid object on a mini123 would be a better test.


----------



## 4sevens (May 20, 2010)

The point is nobody is going to be crushing the light with their fingers or from sitting on the light.


----------



## edc3 (May 20, 2010)

paulr said:


> What does that signify? It only puts about 32 psi of force (or whatever your tire inflation pressure is) on the light. Dropping a heavy rigid object on a mini123 would be a better test.



That doesn't make sense to me. 32 psi is the internal pressure in the tire, not the force that it exerts. The way you're saying it, the force on the flashlight would be the same 32 psi whether there was a car on the tire or not. Correct me if I'm wrong. :shrug:


----------



## paulr (May 20, 2010)

edc3 said:


> That doesn't make sense to me. 32 psi is the internal pressure in the tire, not the force that it exerts. The way you're saying it, the force on the flashlight would be the same 32 psi whether there was a car on the tire or not. Correct me if I'm wrong. :shrug:



The internal and external pressure is the same. The 32 psi tells you how much area the weight of the car is spread over. If it's a 1600 lb compact car, the contact area of the tires on the ground is 50 sq inches. If the light is 1 square inch then it experiences about 32 pounds of force under the tire. Compare that to if you step on the light by accident and your entire weight is on it.

I do think 47 is right that crushing a light by accident isn't likely to be a big problem in practice.


----------



## edc3 (May 20, 2010)

Consider me educated. Thanks.

And yes, your last point is the most important.


----------



## 4sevens (May 20, 2010)

paulr said:


> The internal and external pressure is the same. The 32 psi tells you how much area the weight of the car is spread over. If it's a 1600 lb compact car, the contact area of the tires on the ground is 50 sq inches. If the light is 1 square inch then it experiences about 32 pounds of force under the tire. Compare that to if you step on the light by accident and your entire weight is on it.


Paul - on paper you're absolutely right. However you can to take into account that a tire is not a perfectly amorphous device dictated purely by internal and external pressures - it has a shape of it's own - in fact it has a predefine shape with steel and sometimes nylon structures to hold a certain shape. 

I'll use extremes to demonstrate. An unmounted tire and wheel laying on it's side - it may have 32 psi internally but externally it has about 14.7psi at sea level.

On the other extreme - some tires have extremely rigid sidewalls - on the outer edge you will get much more psi because you'll be compressing the rubber and not the air. Some of the effect could also be applied to the rest of the tire because the tire itself has some structure - it's not just a balloon that you blow up. Otherwise an unmounted tire/wheel would be perfectly round.

Here's a practical point. I've been stepped on - yes it hurts. a lot. But I'd rather have someone step on me any day than get run over by a car.

I won't even going into the inertial effects of acceleration and deceleration forces on something under a tire.

While it's true that running over a light is hardly scientific, it does serve a point that if it can be run over by a car, it's likely you won't be able to crush it with your fingers.


----------



## paulr (May 20, 2010)

I think the issue with the mini's thin walls is not so much crush or even impact resistance, but that it means any threads cut into it have to be rather fine, making them more prone to stripping and slop. Thread slop does seem to be a recurring problem with these lights (mine has some). I just accept it as an unavoidable consequence of wanting a super-small light. Ra and Tek-tite lights avoid these problems but as a consequence they are much larger.


----------



## bullfrog (May 20, 2010)

After edcing my mini 123 rather consostantly for the past few months:

The ano is not holding up too well - it is significantly more worn after a few months than lights Ive have for 3 times as long. I can't imagine what my mini will look like in a year. 

The threads on my warm mini 123 are so loose now that it's nearly impossible to accurately choose a level. I have to keep really thick lube on them to get it functional... 

I think that if the o ring was a bit fatter and placed further down closer to the tail this would add more friction and tighter turns. The o ring is placed so close to the end of the threads currently.

Also, I saw it mentioned earlier in the thread about sitting on it, having the head tilt to side making contact and the light coming on - this actually happens to me a lot since I carry my mini in my back pocket...

My basis for comparison on small twisty lights is the fenix p1d, maratac aaa and maratac aa which do not give any of these problems...

With all this said, I love the size, output and tint so much that I don't want to send it in.

I would pay $10 more for better quality threads and tougher ano.


----------



## cmd (May 21, 2010)

*my warm white mini 123 just arrive, LOVE it!*

Oh yeah, this is what I was hoping for and then some.

It is by far the nicest < $40 flashlight I have ever encountered.

The threads are very smooth and when the head is turned down far enough to be in contact with the o-ring there is no wobble. However there is a little "sweet spot" where pushing sideways on the head will momentarily activate the light, which is quite convenient. You can use it to quickly cycle through to the desired setting before locking it on.

I absolutely love the light this tiny little light weight thing produces. For me this is the ideal keychain flashlight. The quality and amount of light is just amazing.

My SS Peak AA and AAA lights are for now officially retired, they just don't come close to the functionality of the Quark mini 123.

Thank you David for making the warm white available, it is a very pleasant colour and the mini 123 is a marvelous design.


----------



## tbenedict (May 25, 2010)

I really like the Warm AA Mini I just received. The threads are real smooth and are loose enough to allow momentary action. I guess this could lead to some mode jumping, but so far it seems fine. 

The only issue I see is the Duraloop rattles easily. Hard to complain about that, I'm sure a little tape or paper around the battery would deaden it.

Edit: The mode jumping has been getting worse now that the threads are "breaking in" a little. It can be a little annoying. I might try some teflon tape.

I did take a strip of paper and wrap it twice around the battery, no more rattle and it is reusable.


----------



## Zatoichi (May 26, 2010)

My Mini 123 "arrived" today. Unfortunately I first have to go to the post office and pay the £11.40 customs charge. This is the trouble with dealing with honest people... :shakehead



(Just kidding)


----------



## toughCookie (May 26, 2010)

Zatoichi said:


> My Mini 123 "arrived" today. Unfortunately I first have to go to the post office and pay the £11.40 customs charge. This is the trouble with dealing with honest people... :shakehead
> 
> 
> 
> (Just kidding)


 
Did you get the Mini 123 titanium or the standard version? I thought any items that have been sold over £39 will get hit with the custom charge. $39 = £27.06
$69 = £47.87


----------



## Zatoichi (May 26, 2010)

toughCookie said:


> Did you get the Mini 123 titanium or the standard version? I thought any items that have been sold over £39 will get hit with the custom charge. $39 = £27.06
> $69 = £47.87



The standard version. It's anything over £18 :sigh: It might have been cheaper and quicker to buy in the UK, but I wasn't thinking when I ordered. Oh well, I'm loving the light anyway. Shame it doesn't fit my ****fire RCR's though. I'd best go research it now I've bought it! :laughing:


----------



## was.lost.but.now.found (May 26, 2010)

Zatoichi said:


> The standard version. It's anything over £18 :sigh: It might have been cheaper and quicker to buy in the UK, but I wasn't thinking when I ordered. Oh well, I'm loving the light anyway. Shame it doesn't fit my ****fire RCR's though. I'd best go research it now I've bought it! :laughing:


 
Is that Trustfire or Ultrafire? I'm sure others would like to know.


----------



## Zatoichi (May 26, 2010)

was.lost.but.now.found said:


> Is that Trustfire or Ultrafire? I'm sure others would like to know.



Neither the gray Ultrafire or white Trustfire will fit. I could possibly have twisted it down a bit more, but I didn't want to risk it. Maybe shortening the spring would work, but I think I'll go with shorter cells.


----------



## utalker (May 26, 2010)

Damn, I just go my Mini AA WW. I just can't believe the size. It's just so small


----------



## Engineer (May 26, 2010)

Does anyone know of any good beamshot comparisons between the RCR123 and primaries? If not can someone please post some? I have a mini123 and have only used primaries. I have read that on RCR123 it will do 250 lumens vs the 189 lumens on primaries and would like to see some pictures if possible. 

Also if anyone knows of beamshots comparing the TK11 R5 to a mini123 on RCR123's that would also be great (although I know they are definitely in different categories). 

PS. Besides the super loose threads on my mini123 the flashlight is absolutely positively amazing.


----------



## rlorion (May 27, 2010)

I recieved my Mini 123 today and all I can say is WOW it's small and powerful. I love this thing...I put the lanyard on and put it around my neck and the light has been on me all day. This will be my ESOED(every second of evey day carry) from now on. This light it's so light you don't even know you are wearing it...and With no pocket clip I am afraid that it wil slip out of my pocket and I won't even know it. The Knurling is great and the threads are smooth and snug with no play at all. This is my first twist light, and so far I like the Hidden strobe and beacon modes because I don't usually use those modes unless I am freaking out my co-workers.:huh: I am now a fan of 4Sevens and I look forward to purchasing more products from them.


----------



## toughCookie (May 27, 2010)

Zatoichi said:


> The standard version. It's anything over £18 :sigh: It might have been cheaper and quicker to buy in the UK, but I wasn't thinking when I ordered. Oh well, I'm loving the light anyway. Shame it doesn't fit my ****fire RCR's though. I'd best go research it now I've bought it! :laughing:


 
ouch, I didn't think it was anything over £18 that's pretty low :shakehead

Yeah, I've just found a UK retailer that stock 47's Mini at around £31.23 with discount.


----------



## Rod911 (May 27, 2010)

I got my MiNi AA in warm white this Tuesday and, I must say, I think I am slowly but surely being turned to the warmer side of life. Whilst I've been playing around with it, here are my observations:

If you have a Zebralight headlamp that takes AA batteries, then the included silicon holder will fit a MiNi AA.

Also, I found my blue TrustFires to be a tad bit too big (ie. way too much force to get the head tightened) so I reduced the spring's length by around 1cm and it's just right.

I prefer using Li-ions in this light because that medium output is pretty much spot on for around-the-home tasks.

My MiNi, when on medium, does whine, but I do not mind.

Wearing a suit all day, I find that it's unobtrusive when either in my pants pocket or in the inner pocket of my jacket.

Use of a nimh or alkaline cell made the twisting action seem a bit 'loose'. It just seemed that it was being turned _too_ easily. This is before I decided to reduce the length of the spring. That's why the use of a li-ion cell is another positive because it results in a twisting action that is similar to a Preon Ti I, but not as difficult. Again, it's _just right_ for me.


----------



## riva (May 28, 2010)

I got a R53C flashlight the day before yesterday. The tint is great, just a little bit yellowish than the pure white one. I hope R53C could be used on the XP-G neutral white version of Quark mini as soon as possible.


----------



## pobox1475 (May 28, 2010)

> Wearing a suit all day, I find that it's unobtrusive when either in my pants pocket or in the inner pocket of my jacket.


 Get ahold of a fishing swivel and the smallest S-Biner you can find. Even more comfortable to carry without weight of light in bottom of pocket. Just clip small portion of Biner to pocket so only a small portion is visible and you are good to go...







*Small carabiner shown. Tiny S-Biner works even better.*


----------



## Kraid (Jun 17, 2010)

bedazzLED said:


> First off, I think these lights are fantastic, especially the 123 Ti, but mine seems to be defective or it has some flaky connection, or is just plain demented!
> 
> First off, one-handed operation is out of the question, simply too tight, whereas my aluminium one is beautifully smooth and easily operated one-handed.
> 
> ...



I had the exact same issues with my Ti MiNi CR123A. I contacted 4Sevens and they got a new one out to me lightning fast! Sexy smooth threads, makes contact without torquing down and no mode skipping! I couldn't be happier! (Although the first one was a tint winner and this one is distinctly green. Though not overly so.)


----------



## strinq (Jun 17, 2010)

Just a note of warning, after using the mini for a few months something occurred to me twice.

I was carrying it in my jeans pocket (tight fit) along with my car keys. 
After awhile i felt a sharp pain on my thigh. The mini 123 somehow managed to twist to the high mode (and i was using RCRs). 
When I took it out it was too hot to handle. 
Nowadays I give it an extra half turn when I turn it off.


----------



## u238 (Jun 17, 2010)

I received my Mini AA today, and so far, it's nearly perfect. I was concerned that the threads would be loose because of reports of issues, but I am pleased to say that they are fine. The head and body are tight, and the threads are very smooth. There is very little play until the head is almost removed. When turning on the light, there is a definite point where the head becomes fully tightened. It is possible to skip modes, but you really have to try by wiggling the head as you turn. I am a big proponent of simple interfaces and bare essential features in a flashlight, and I can say that the Mini interface is almost perfect. The brightness modes are easy to cycle, in a good order, and have an appropriate range of brightness. The extra modes are hidden away well. The beam is excellent and free of artifacts. The quality of machining and anodizing seems very good, though I don't know (or care) how the finish will hold up. My only concern is how well the light will resist unwanted activation in a pocket. Some thicker lubricant such as that on Surefire lights would probably cure any problems. All told, the light exceeds my expectations and is well worth what I paid.


----------



## Engineer (Jun 20, 2010)

Just wanted to share a recent Q mini 123 discovery I made. If you want a diffuser for your mini or would just like to keep the lens from getting scratched in your pocket this little hack is for you. The diffuser fits nice and tight on the mini and doesn't slip off when taking out of putting it into your pocket. Additionally the diffuser can go on the back of the mini when it is not in use. All you need is a Deer Park water bottle cap and a pair of scissors. Enjoy.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Jun 20, 2010)

Thanks for the tip, Engineer. Nice find.

Geoff


----------



## europium (Jun 24, 2010)

Does anybody know how to fix a Quark Mini 123 so that it actually works properly?

The spring is far too weak to prevent the light from changing modes on me, and I got no response after emailing 4-7s customer service.

The spring should be thicker, and the length of the spring (if it were to be uncoiled) should be longer. Then the interface might allow me to turn the light on to (my preferred setting of) medium _*and have it stay there*_, even while I am out running.

thADVANCEanks,


Eu


----------



## Mr.Burns (Jun 24, 2010)

Ok I'm new to the forum , didn't want to start a new thread.Will the Quark mini 123 except the Quark 18650 tube and run on the 18650 2600mah AW ? I know it says all Quarks , but did not know if that included the mini 123 ?thanks in advanced for your reply.


----------



## strinq (Jun 24, 2010)

Mr.Burns said:


> Ok I'm new to the forum , didn't want to start a new thread.Will the Quark mini 123 except the Quark 18650 tube and run on the 18650 2600mah AW ? I know it says all Quarks , but did not know if that included the mini 123 ?thanks in advanced for your reply.



Nope. It says at the 4sevens website that the mini's and regulars are not compatible.


----------



## Mr.Burns (Jun 24, 2010)

Thank you.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Jun 24, 2010)

I finally relented and got a QMini AA Warm. Very happy I did. This thing should be excellent for ceiling bouncing. Not quite orange and extra smooth. If it's not too bright on low it aught to make a great reading in bed light.

Geoff


----------



## cafezeenuts (Jul 6, 2010)

For the past week i have been using the Mini123 with AW RCR123 battery on "High" as a front light for my bicycle. 

I ride 20-30mins in the morning, temperature is about 5 degree Celsius, avg speed is around 25km/h.

This light does not have any problems operating on High with RCR123 at the conditions as above.

The light is awesome... :thumbsup:


----------



## Flying Turtle (Jul 22, 2010)

Did some required tarting-up of my QMiniAA WW. Super glued a magnet to the tail, added some paracord, and found that a Fenix AAA clip works fairly well.






Geoff


----------



## HorseFilms (Jul 22, 2010)

I don't know if this has already been posted, but I find that the cap from a bottle of 5 Hour Energy works perfectly as a red diffuser filter for the MiniAA.


----------



## dyril (Jul 22, 2010)

europium said:


> Does anybody know how to fix a Quark Mini 123 so that it actually works properly?
> 
> The spring is far too weak to prevent the light from changing modes on me, and I got no response after emailing 4-7s customer service.
> 
> ...



Still working on that one. I noticed that my eneloop is shorter than the duracell that came with. Tried pulling on the spring. I'll try a spacer next...

It happens mostly by one-handed twisting however, which makes sense because at some point, granted the threads are loose enough, you can make a twisty a momentary by squeezing it; the off-axis twist is it.

My harder-to-twist LD15 hasn't had this chattering problem.

EDIT:
The situation has improved after retraining myself to tighten the head fully, and by placing two thin steel washers underneath the spring (spacer amount is still under the point where head contact would get crushed). On spacers, I also wrapped a thin sheet of paper around the battery to reduce rattling..


----------



## lovenhim (Jul 22, 2010)

I really like my Quark 123 regular. I want a Quark single AA, which I can make once I get a body. I have a Quark 123 X2 on the way.


----------



## the.Mtn.Man (Jul 22, 2010)

I recently purchased a Quark MiNi AA neutral white, and now I can't stand the look of cool white. Neutral white is softer and more pleasing to the eye, and it makes colors "pop". I'm definitely a neutral white convert.


----------



## DM51 (Jul 23, 2010)

As this thread is now >1,300 posts, we'll continue in Part 2.


----------

