# Surefire mini G2



## peite (Feb 10, 2009)




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## lumafist (Feb 10, 2009)

"poor-mans" 3P....


Very cool mod !


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## neoseikan (Feb 10, 2009)

Cool! Did you cut the tube by yourself?


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## carbine15 (Feb 10, 2009)

so cool!


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## Gunnerboy (Feb 10, 2009)

:twothumbs Way cool !!


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## Sgt. LED (Feb 10, 2009)




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## gallonoffuel (Feb 10, 2009)

That is indeed very awesome. Good job! :twothumbs

Details please


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## Cosmo7809 (Feb 10, 2009)

Make a few! I will buy one.


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## DM51 (Feb 10, 2009)

So _*that's*_ what happened to my hosepipe fittings,lol. 

Joking aside - that's a very neat idea. Good work!


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## Policetacteam (Feb 11, 2009)

That is the cat's meow!!! Very Cool!!!!


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## Blindasabat (Feb 11, 2009)

*Surefire G1*

The G1? Nice job. The ultimate Michigan glovebox light. I'd like one in OD green.

Now do an A1!


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## Bullzeyebill (Feb 11, 2009)

Welcome to CPF. Quite a "teaser" you have there. :devil:

Bill


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## Illum (Feb 11, 2009)

gallonoffuel said:


> Details please



_+1_​


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## Sgt. LED (Feb 11, 2009)

Time to sell them..................


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## Illum (Feb 11, 2009)

send a few to that G2-OJ pioneering innovator we have on the forum first


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## Sgt. LED (Feb 12, 2009)

YEAH! Good idea.


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## maxspeeds (Feb 12, 2009)

peite said:


>


 
This is sweet! How does the 2-piece body interface? I wouldn't mind a *Surefire G1*


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## toby_pra (Feb 12, 2009)

That mod rocks...


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## dilbert (Feb 12, 2009)

Something is not quite right with those photos. On my G2s there are only two full rectangles of the waffle pattern on each side with two partial ones that have the surefire logo in the center. Those photos show three complete rectangles of the waffle in a row. Are there different generations of the G2?:thinking:


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## Superdave (Feb 12, 2009)

looks like the "body" is a 1 cell G2 extender. 

Nice work! That bezel is awesome too. :thumbsup:


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## PCC (Feb 12, 2009)

I'm going to guess that he cut down a G2/G3, bored out the tail side and cut down the end that threads onto the head. Some glue and, wa-la, G1. I suppose that someone wanting to make a few of these could mix up a few colors as well.


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## Cuso (Feb 13, 2009)

THIS THREAD IS WORTHLESS WITHOUT DETAILS...:twothumbs


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## Bullzeyebill (Feb 14, 2009)

Looks like peite stopped posting on the 10th. I'll PM him.

Bill


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## LiteFan (Feb 15, 2009)

I would be in for one of these 3g's.


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## Blindasabat (Feb 15, 2009)

*Surefire G1*

No need to wait for one. Get a G2 extender tube from SureFire, 
http://www.surefire.com/ConversionKits
for all of $11. Cut the inner and outer tubes down, press back together and wa-laaa. Actually a cheap mod.


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## GarageBoy (Feb 17, 2009)

*Re: Surefire G1*

The details is how to mate the head flange


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## Blindasabat (Feb 17, 2009)

Looks like the body tube is just pressed onto the head flange.


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## LiteFan (Feb 18, 2009)

I checked my G2 it does not seem any way to remove the head flange, it seems molded to the body tube in one piece.


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## maxspeeds (Feb 19, 2009)

Blindasabat said:


> Looks like the body tube is just pressed onto the head flange.


 
It must be secured somehow, possibly with epoxy. The force of the springs from the tailcap and lamp will push the body apart.


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## alantch (Feb 19, 2009)

I still don't see how the circled part is put together. I can see that the OP logs in every now and then but stays silent on this great mod.


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## Bullzeyebill (Feb 20, 2009)

A few days ago I PM'd peite to please post in this thread. No results, so I just now requested him to do so in his other thread. I do not understand why he has left this hanging.

Bill


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## rolling (Feb 20, 2009)

Maybe he is more a Photoshop guy  Why are in the first picture 2 rows of blocks and in the second one you see the beginning of a third row?


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## PCC (Feb 20, 2009)

I believe that the beginning of the third row is shown in the first picture but you cannot really see it because there isn't a shadow cast on it to highlight it.

The shoulder that alantch circled is, I believe, part of the Nitrolon body that was cut down using a lathe. If you look at a G2 or G3 body you see that it is quite thick at that point on the body, about 3mm or more. If you chuck a G2 or G3 into lathe you should be able to easily turn it down to that diameter. You then need to do the same to an extension or even the remainder of the body. I'm starting to think that he glued the cut-down steel sleeve into the Nitrolon body to hold it all together. If I were to do this what I described above is pretty much what I would do.


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## bigchelis (Feb 20, 2009)

Phottoshop........At least we can dream now.


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## peite (Feb 20, 2009)

my dear friend....

I am very sorry lets you be angry
my english is not good
so...I can't tell you how to do 
I hoped you can understand my meaning

if you can read Chinese .I can tell you how to do a lot
http://www.knifeedgeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6231

Thank you very much
peite wu


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## bigchelis (Feb 20, 2009)

peite said:


> my dear friend....
> 
> I am very sorry lets you be angry
> my english is not good
> ...


 

Where did you get the Adaptor that allows to attach the G2 bezel to the battery adaptor. I can cut the adaptor shorter untill the threads are within reach, but I have no idea where you got the adaptor. It looks just like the LU60 (adaptor collar).


From looking this over if he cut the battery adaptor and the top of the tube, then just epoxy them together. It looks quite simple of a Modification, now please confirm that is what you did. No english needed; just say yes or no.


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## Illum (Feb 20, 2009)

if the link wasn't membership content protected...like bladeforums I can at least help to translate Chinese sites as I have done in the past


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## NetKidz (Feb 21, 2009)

As I know, the mini G2 is made as follow:

Cut the original G2 tube and leave a short body section as 1. in the above picture. Trim the body by lathe to make the outer diameter smaller.

Cut an AN14 Battery adapter. It's longer than needed to keep the rectangle shape intact. Using lathe again to bore out the inner diameter indicated by 2. above. (only the begining, not entire adapter)

3. Test/fit 1 and 2, then use epoxy to glue them. 

4. The inner sleeve is cutted gradually. Cut a little, then try to fit. If not good, cut a little more. Do it several times to find the correct length.


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## Flashlike (Feb 21, 2009)

I'm not so sure that one would have to bore out the AN14 battery adapter (which is used for the flashlight body in this mod). 
I think that you just need to come up with the metal sleeve to reduce the diameter. 
The AN14 adapter is designed for the Surefire NiCad battery which is a slightly larger diameter than CR123 batteries need.
Does this make sense?

BTW, thanks for everyone's input on this! It looks like a nifty mod, once completed. I'm contemplating which color to go with.


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## peite (Feb 22, 2009)

yes.yes.yes.yes.yes.....
Thanks for NetKidz Detailed Explanation

:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs



NetKidz said:


> As I know, the mini G2 is made as follow:
> 
> Cut the original G2 tube and leave a short body section as 1. in the above picture. Trim the body by lathe to make the outer diameter smaller.
> 
> ...


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## Flashlike (Feb 22, 2009)

peite said:


> yes.yes.yes.yes.yes.....
> Thanks for NetKidz Detailed Explanation
> 
> :twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs



*Peite*--

*Where did you get the metal sleeve (#4)??*


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## Bullzeyebill (Feb 22, 2009)

The metal sleeve insert is in all G2's. Provides contact between tail and head.

Bill


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## Flashlike (Feb 22, 2009)

Bullzeyebill said:


> The metal sleeve insert is in all G2's. Provides contact between tail and head.
> 
> Bill



*Thanks, Bill*

 Besides--I don't own a G2 (yet) nor have I disassembled one.


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## peite (Feb 23, 2009)

yes..

The metal sleeve insert in originally G2
Thanks, Bill














my another mini surefire...lovecpf


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## Bullzeyebill (Feb 23, 2009)

Nice work peite. A way cut down G2Z.

Bill


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## bigchelis (Feb 23, 2009)

Okay,
Now what is that black adaptor used in the Camo G2 mini????????


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## Illum (Feb 23, 2009)

if I get to guess its a G2Z cut down:candle:


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## Pontiaker (Feb 24, 2009)

How about using two CR2 batteries in it after its cut down for full orignal output?


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## Illum (Feb 24, 2009)

CR2?!
two is not going to fit in the place of one cr123A


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## Pontiaker (Feb 24, 2009)

You would have to leave it a little longer but it would still be shorter than the original size.


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## Gadgetor (Feb 25, 2009)

I absolutely love this mod...lovecpf
I'm going to try it,
make it to a 17500 cell or so, 
So two CR2 cells should also work right???

Need to find me a couple of AN-14 BK somewhere in Canada though:thinking:
Hopefully I can get this done sooner than later


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## alantch (Feb 25, 2009)

Gadgetor said:


> I absolutely love this mod...lovecpf
> I'm going to try it,
> make it to a 17500 cell or so,
> So two CR2 cells should also work right???
> ...


Do take lots of pics of the process and share with us here when you do.


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## schiesz (Feb 27, 2009)

I'm looking for parts to do this also. Very cool little lights.


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## schiesz (Mar 9, 2009)

Well i've got the parts to make a few of these, but I can't find a decent way to get the metal sleeve out without messing up the body. It looks like the sleeve from the AN14 is very close to the correct size, but it seems to be bonded pretty well with the polymer and I can't press it out of the original body or the AN14.


--EDIT--

Ok, the sleeve is out of the body and AN14, but I still have the same problem with the remainder of the sleeve in the head. 

How did you get the sleeve out? Just cut the flange off one side and press it out?

--Second Edit--

Ok, I pressed the sleeve out of the head part now too. 1/2" socket fit just right to pop it. Now to get the two parts to mate...


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## schiesz (Mar 10, 2009)

Ok, well, its not the prettiest thing i've ever seen, but I got the G1 working.













No lathe here, so it was all just done with a hacksaw and dremel. The insert I used was from the AN14, and all I did was cut the flared end off right at its edge. This length appears to work perfectly.


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## Pontiaker (Mar 10, 2009)

The tube seems to be flared on both ends, I just cut the head off to the proper length with the tube inside, then removed the long portion of tube, completed the rest of the mod then inserted the tube in from the tailcap end and trimmed it to the correct length needed by looking into the body and making it come up through like the original did.I also ground down the tube in the middle to get rid of the pattern that was on it and the half of the Surefire name that was left.Its really easy, cant wait to try it on some metal lights after my new lathe tooling gets here.
Matt


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## Optik49 (Mar 11, 2009)

Pontiaker said:


> The tube seems to be flared on both ends, I just cut the head off to the proper length with the tube inside, then removed the long portion of tube, completed the rest of the mod then inserted the tube in from the tailcap end and trimmed it to the correct length needed by looking into the body and making it come up through like the original did.I also ground down the tube in the middle to get rid of the pattern that was on it and the half of the Surefire name that was left.Its really easy, cant wait to try it on some metal lights after my new lathe tooling gets here.
> Matt


 

Looks good. I still dont get how you guys are making these but they are cool. Did you add an O ring? Looks like it in the photo.


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## elumen8 (Nov 23, 2009)

I still get a kick out of this thread. I'm so close to sacrificing one of my G2s just to see if I can build a working model.

JB


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## Kestrel (Nov 23, 2009)

Thanks for bumping this thread, ya gotta love all these cool pics. :thumbsup:


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## KDOG3 (Nov 24, 2009)

Man these are cool. Someone could make a MINT selling these...*hint, hint*


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## leukos (Nov 26, 2009)

peite said:


>


 

Very clever! I like the look of this little light.


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## mtwarden (Mar 29, 2010)

I've got a couple of G2's and was wanting a slightly smaller light- does anyone offer this service by chance?

thanks in advance


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## LonghunterCO (Mar 30, 2010)

I have access to a the equipment but I do not know how to use them so I may have to go the hand tool route. (How did I miss this thread?)


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## mtwarden (Mar 30, 2010)

I might be wrong, but I think if someone were to provide this service I think it would be well received

lots of G2's floating around


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## mtwarden (Apr 14, 2010)

finally got mine done, w/o a lathe this definitely ranks right up there w/ some of my top PITA projects, but pretty satisfied w/ the outcome


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## LonghunterCO (Apr 21, 2010)

peite said:


> yes..
> 
> The metal sleeve insert in originally G2
> Thanks, Bill
> ...


 Was the camo one on ethe G2 combat lights orgionally?


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## POLICE_STATE (Feb 26, 2012)

1 Surefire G2
1 Lumens Factory EO-4
1 AW 18350
1 Heck of a lot of work
Equals a cool toy.
Yes, I know I did not use an extender, and you can see part of "SURFIRE". I still kinda like it. 
You guys still want to buy these?


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## Pontiaker (Feb 27, 2012)

I offered to do more but really got very little interest. Its a fun DIY but hard to make any money doing this let alone just getting paid for my time. Yours look great too:~)


Pontiaker said:


> The tube seems to be flared on both ends, I just cut the head off to the proper length with the tube inside, then removed the long portion of tube, completed the rest of the mod then inserted the tube in from the tailcap end and trimmed it to the correct length needed by looking into the body and making it come up through like the original did.I also ground down the tube in the middle to get rid of the pattern that was on it and the half of the Surefire name that was left.Its really easy, cant wait to try it on some metal lights after my new lathe tooling gets here.
> Matt


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## POLICE_STATE (Feb 27, 2012)

I thought running an 18350 might make it more appealing. Also, mine is a half inch shorter. There is no telling what people will buy, but we know what people say they will buy.


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## LonghunterCO (Feb 27, 2012)

So, who makes a good drop-in LED for the C-series surefire that will run on a single cr123? Markof in that voltage range are for a E-series and you have to go to his head.


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## Kestrel (Feb 27, 2012)

LonghunterCO said:


> So, who makes a good drop-in LED for the C-series surefire that will run on a single cr123? Markof in that voltage range are for a E-series and you have to go to his head.


I know that the Malkoff M31 description is a little confusing, but it fits these hosts and it's perfect with 1xCR123. The best match with 1xRCR123 (actually 1xIMR) is the M61. BTW that is why the discontinued M30's are still popular - they run harder on a single lithium-ion rechargeable compared to the M61's.

BTW it's cool that someone is 'carrying the torch' (so to speak ) for this cool but labor-intensive mod. Good job folks.


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## mtwarden (Feb 27, 2012)

LonghunterCO said:


> So, who makes a good drop-in LED for the C-series surefire that will run on a single cr123? Markof in that voltage range are for a E-series and you have to go to his head.



I'd be interested in finding something that works- it's a little anemic as is on one cell. I purchased a drop-in sometime ago (so long I can't remember which one )- it didn't work- fitment issues


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## LonghunterCO (Feb 27, 2012)

Kestrel said:


> I know that the Malkoff M31 description is a little confusing, but it fits these hosts and it's perfect with 1xCR123. The best match with 1xRCR123 (actually 1xIMR) is the M61. BTW that is why the discontinued M30's are still popular - they run harder on a single lithium-ion rechargeable compared to the M61's.
> 
> BTW it's cool that someone is 'carrying the torch' (so to speak ) for this cool but labor-intensive mod. Good job folks.



The 61's have an input voltage requirment of 3.4V regulated (with a RCR123 at 3v and below 3.4 it drops to direct drive). Are you saying run it direct drive?


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## POLICE_STATE (Feb 27, 2012)

I have found that malkoffs don't work well with G series lights. They have no springs to make contact with the sleeve.


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## notrefined (Feb 27, 2012)

POLICE_STATE said:


> 1 Surefire G2
> 1 Lumens Factory EO-4
> 1 AW 18350
> 1 Heck of a lot of work
> Equals a cool toy.



How did you get an 18350 to fit?


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## Pontiaker (Feb 27, 2012)

Guys there are a ton of drop ins that work with these, might have to mad a spring for better contact but I run several normal P6 drop ins made for 3v-8v or so. Couple multi modes work best for me. Cool using the 18350, was short enough for me using the 650, already hard to hold onto! ;~) I got tired of fatter 6P head size in my pocket and went with other brands single 18650 smaller head stuff.


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## mtwarden (Feb 27, 2012)

looked up which one (drop-in) I had it was a XPG R5, it didn't work unfortunately

if someone has that does work well (and actually has a shortened G2 they've tired w/ it) I'm all ears


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## Kestrel (Feb 27, 2012)

LonghunterCO said:


> The 61's have an input voltage requirment of 3.4V regulated (with a RCR123 at 3v and below 3.4 it drops to direct drive). Are you saying run it direct drive?


OK, now you're confusing me. Your prior post stated "CR123" so I assumed that you were talking about non-rechargeable CR123's. Now in your post above you state "RCR123" (which are 3.7v LiIon rechargeables) but also state "3v", which only matches the open-circuit voltage of a non-rechargeable CR123. I am very familiar with both chemistries as well as the Malkoff dropin line and I'd like to answer your questions, but it is unclear as to what you are looking for.

The Malkoff M61 line is designed to be the best match for LiIon rechargeables or multiple CR123 primaries, while the M31 line is designed to be the best match for a single CR123 lithium primary or 2xAA NiMH's. I would be happy to supply more detailed information once I know what your desired cell chemistry for this light.

Best regards,


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## Pontiaker (Feb 27, 2012)

As long as its the proper voltage for the battery you are using, you just need to make sure the outer spring on your drop, if it has one, is narrow enough at the bottom that it makes contact with the metal liner of the light. Are you trying to use it in a cut down G2?


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## LonghunterCO (Feb 27, 2012)

Kestrel said:


> OK, now you're confusing me. Your prior post stated "CR123" so I assumed that you were talking about non-rechargeable CR123's. Now in your post above you state "RCR123" (which are 3.7v LiIon rechargeables) but also state "3v", which only matches the open-circuit voltage of a non-rechargeable CR123. I am very familiar with both chemistries as well as the Malkoff dropin line and I'd like to answer your questions, but it is unclear as to what you are looking for.
> 
> The Malkoff M61 line is designed to be the best match for LiIon rechargeables or multiple CR123 primaries, while the M31 line is designed to be the best match for a single CR123 lithium primary or 2xAA NiMH's. I would be happy to supply more detailed information once I know what your desired cell chemistry for this light.
> 
> Best regards,



Sorry I was not trying to be confusing- In my post I was talking about Cr123 primaries. As that is what I was interested in and what I stock. So that was my first choice for a single cell build. 
Your reply mentioned rechargable 123's so I was wondering if there was something about their output vs. CR 123 primeries that allowed for longer run time. Not being familure with them I looked them up and they seemed to be the same voltage.


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## Kestrel (Feb 27, 2012)

OK, no worries. The M31 runs like a champ from 1xCR123, the only issue is heat in the nitrolon head/bezel. Very much recommend against a continuous run with that setup - the M31L might be a better option depending on what you're looking for. 45 minutes total runtime w/1xCR123 with the full-power version. Again, I know that the Malkoff description of the M31 is a bit confusing, it's a great match for 3P's but I guess SF hasn't been selling many of those lately, lol.


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## mtwarden (Feb 27, 2012)

POLICE_STATE said:


> I have found that malkoffs don't work well with G series lights. They have no springs to make contact with the sleeve.



is there a workaround for that? another drop-in that does work w/ the G series?


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## Kestrel (Feb 27, 2012)

My unmodified Malkoffs have always worked perfectly with my unmodified G-series lights. My wife's G2/M60LL has never faltered for an instant over the past three years she's had it. BTW there are a few troubleshooting threads for this topic, please feel free to use the CPF-Google search function for that. The usual suspect is the conductive metal sleeve being too far 'down' into the nitrolon body as viewed from the head end.


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## sween1911 (Aug 12, 2015)

Reviving this great thread! I have my trusty old G2 and am planning this very mod. Will report back with tales of my butchery.


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## Kestrel (Aug 12, 2015)

Fantastic, looking forward to seeing it. :huh:


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## sween1911 (Aug 14, 2015)

No turning back now...





WOW, no wonder these bad boys are so tough. That wall is way thicker than I imagined in cross section.

As long as have this giant old Milwaukee 1/2" drill, I always have a lathe. Trimming the head piece down to fit inside the body piece I cut. Secured to a dowel with electrical tape and the dowel chucked in this older monster. (eye protection is NOT optional)





Cutting the slot in the body part to receive the head...





Testing connectivity with a P60 on one CR123 before final glueing...





Epoxied together with my old bug-out-gear module to test fit...





I could have been more precise with cutting the slot out of the body. I did a good first pass and had it ready to go together but it was just 1mm short, so I cut a piece off of the body and quickly made the slot a little deeper, and it came out a little eccentric, so it's a tiny bit off center. I made it as straight as I could when gluing the pieces together with epoxy, but it's still a tiny bit off. Were I to do this again, I'd do it so the glue point was down toward the middle of the handle instead of right behind the head. Having the metal tube running under the cut would help to keep everything straighter. 

All in all, it's a fun light. I'll mess with it and an RCR123 to get some decent output and maybe find a cheaper low voltage module to go with it. 

(I actually do have a black AN14 extender, but didn't want to destroy it quite yet. I have another G2 and it's handy to have.)


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## RedLED (Aug 14, 2015)

First and foremost, nice work. In 2009 this was cool, however, now you are on the leading edge of a revolution in a in 3P/M31 style of light becoming very popular. I always loved my 3P but never carried it because it was a model with a short production span, and other lights at the time replaced it. 

The 3P size is the quickly becoming the new craze of the drop-in lumens and styling scene, lots of cool things coming for M31 style drop-in hosts, and your modification looks very cool. Is this work just special for yourself, or will you be offering a modding service. Tons of G2's floating around out there.

I have the original 3P which is a great pocket size of light. However, at the time (late 90's), Surefire could not get any useable lumens for what their company was about, so I never used mine, and Surefire abandoned it. However with the M30-31 Malkoff's, and several other drop-in makers who have arrived since that time, expect this size of light to be the next cool thing. You can already see it coming, in fact it is here, now, and it looks like, it is going to, be fun!

Nice job and the resurrection of this thread could not have come at a better time.

Malkoff and Vallient Concepts, please ramp up and put back into production the titanium VME head! I wish I had bought more than one when they were selling. I am planning all, kinds of 3P/M31 size of lights, and that will include titanium!

Best of luck,

RL


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## sween1911 (Aug 14, 2015)

RedLed said:


> The 3P size is the quickly becoming the new craze, lots of cool things coming for M31 style drop-ins, and your modification looks very cool. Is this work just special for yourself, or will you be offering a modding service. Tons of G2's floating around out there.
> 
> I have the original 3P which is a great pocket size of light light. However, at the time (late 90's), Surefire could not get any useable lumens for what their company was about, so I never used mine. However with the M30-31 Malkoff's, and several other drop-in makers, expect this to, be the next cool thing. You can already see it coming, and it looks like,it is going to,be fun!
> 
> Nice job and the resurrection of this thread could not have come at a better time.



I will not be offering a modding service, but thanks for the props! This was just me messing around. My first major Surefire mod was an old... Geez I forget the part number... the 3volt weaponlight lamp module with the R30 lamp... LM30? that I connected to a cut-down A19 extender resulting in a 3P clone. Loved that light.


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## scout24 (Aug 14, 2015)

Nicely done! I've made a few of these, one lives on my Wife's might stand with a Malkoff module. Lumensfactory will roll you a "R30" replacement module if you like primary cell 3v incan goodness. Think MN01 beam shape and brightness...


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## sween1911 (Aug 26, 2015)

Kestrel just hooked me up with a nice little 3-mode low-voltage drop-in for this baby. Works great. Got it in my backpack right now.


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