# Flood Coolant... What a difference!! (56k Beware!)



## Mirage_Man (Jun 1, 2008)

I had to stop work and post this because I just finished putting together a flood coolant system for my lathe. I was getting fed up with wearing out drills and other cutting tools prematurely due to all the work with the 6AL 4V titanium I've been doing lately. A machinist friend of mine really pushed me to give it a shot. Boy am I glad he did! It makes everything much easier and the finish? Outstanding! Is it messy? A little, but not bad and I can live with it considering what it does for me.

I was used to not being able to touch the drill after drilling because it was so hot. Now I can drill 2" deep and when I pull it out it's cool to the touch! I'm really diggin it!

I put the whole system together for like $80. A submersible pump from Wholesale Tool, magnetic base from Harbor Freight and various brass fittings and tubing from a local Goodyear hose and fitting dealer.

Here are a few pictures in action drilling with a 3/4" cobalt bit!


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## wquiles (Jun 1, 2008)

Very "cool" - pun intended!

More photos of the recovery/pump part?

Will


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 1, 2008)

wquiles said:


> Very "cool" - pun intended!
> 
> More photos of the recovery/pump part?
> 
> Will



I'll have to take a few later today or tomorrow when I get some time.


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 1, 2008)

Hey! what gives! Brass plumbing for your cooling system...what a bunch of crap! I can't believe you didn't make Ti fittings.....

Very, very schweet my bro!

EDIT: Can I send all my solid round stock to you, for the rough drilling operation You suck!


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## tino_ale (Jun 1, 2008)

Very cool modification

Since the coolant is water based, what do you do in order to make sure nothing on your lathe will rust? Do you spray WD40 after every use, or something else?


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 1, 2008)

tino_ale said:


> Very cool modification
> 
> Since the coolant is water based, what do you do in order to make sure nothing on your lathe will rust? Do you spray WD40 after every use, or something else?



The coolant has rust inhibitors in it. This is the same stuff used in CNC machines.


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## ICUDoc (Jun 2, 2008)

My lathe motor is only a couple of inches above the tray- does yours need protecting or is it well out of the way?
Looks like an interesting thing to explore- thanks a lot for showing us.


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## precisionworks (Jun 2, 2008)

Nice job, MM

The only practical way to machine Ti is with heavy flood. For some specialized applications (surface milling comes to mind) air coolant is OK, but not as effective as flood. With careful setup, hardly any coolant ends up on the floor.


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## PhotonFanatic (Jun 2, 2008)

Mirage_Man said:


> The coolant has rust inhibitors in it. This is the same stuff used in CNC machines.



Brian,

Which brand did you go with?

Those rust inhibitors better work.


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## Data (Jun 2, 2008)

Water soluble oil coolants will not create any rust if the mixture is up at 10%. Some of them will create minor rust under the vice and such if the coolant level drops below 5%.

Cheers
Dave


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## modamag (Jun 2, 2008)

Nice setup Brian.
Now you can really gets cracking with your Ti production.


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## tino_ale (Jun 2, 2008)

Mirage_Man said:


> The coolant has rust inhibitors in it. This is the same stuff used in CNC machines.



That's really excellent! Another thing I didn't know, thanks for the info


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 2, 2008)

wquiles said:


> Very "cool" - pun intended!
> 
> More photos of the recovery/pump part?
> 
> Will



Here you go Will. Here are some more pictures for you. 

The pump. I have since put a hose clamp over the tubing at the barb.





Where the fluid returns to the bucket. I drilled a hole in the pan and epoxied a plastic barb in it. But first I turned the threads off so it would be a nice snug fit inside the hole. I used 5 min. epoxy and it seems plenty strong. If I ever decide to remove it it shouldn't be too difficult.













Here's where the coolant resides. I just used a 5 gallon bucket with a lid. I cut a couple holes in the top to route the tubes and power cord.





Here's my high tech solution for a filter... a piece of red scotchbrite lightly pushed in the return drain hole. It works really well at keeping large particles from recirculating and is very easy to access and replace.









Now for a few shots of the whole shebang. Boy I need to clean up don't I?  Oh and yes that blue bin is full of Ti swarf .


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## wquiles (Jun 3, 2008)

AWESOME - thanks much Brian 

Will


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## greenlight (Jun 3, 2008)

I like the blue color of the coolant and the action shots. Do you resell your ti shavings?


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## Handlobraesing (Jun 3, 2008)

tino_ale said:


> Very cool modification
> 
> Since the coolant is water based, what do you do in order to make sure nothing on your lathe will rust? Do you spray WD40 after every use, or something else?



I don't know what the lubricating ingredient is, but rust inhibitor is very effective. 

Think about your car. The coolant is 50/50 mixture of glycol and water. Neither really degrades, but the reason you change the coolant occasionally is that rust inhibitor additive starts to break down.


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## modamag (Jun 3, 2008)

Brian, does all of the coolant drains to the tank overnight?
Some of the ones I've seen does and over time it build a film in the pan.


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## SafetyBob (Jun 3, 2008)

Nice job Brian as always. To bad it reminds me I need to redo my setup that features regular black pipe, but at least when I got my lathe 15+ years ago I took an old hose off and used that neat plastic stuff you did. 

I have been using a Rustlick product (can't remember the number) and have been really happy machining my aluminum with it.

Bob E.


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 3, 2008)

modamag said:


> Brian, does all of the coolant drains to the tank overnight?
> Some of the ones I've seen does and over time it build a film in the pan.



The way I have it set up it drains completely in a couple minutes. There is a little bit left in the pan to evaporate and yes I believe it's supposed to leave a residue.


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 3, 2008)

SafetyBob said:


> Nice job Brian as always. To bad it reminds me I need to redo my setup that features regular black pipe, but at least when I got my lathe 15+ years ago I took an old hose off and used that neat plastic stuff you did.
> 
> I have been using a Rustlick product (can't remember the number) and have been really happy machining my aluminum with it.
> 
> Bob E.



Thanks. Funny thing is the Loc-Line was originally purchased to make a light for the lathe. The nozzle and 2 blue pieces on the end of the black section were actually from a key-chain that was sent with my order .

I'm using a product called Trim E206 made by Master Chemical Corp. I got it from Enco after speaking with MCC's tech support.


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 4, 2008)

Oh, one more thing. I now realize that I need a chuck guard, you know the lexan type, to go over the chuck. If the coolant is on when working close to the chuck the coolant can get on the jaws and get flung all over the place! It's really just an issue at higher speeds but what a mess! 

I've seen a lexan guard in Enco's catalog but I'm not sure how I could mount it on the South Bend. Anyone have any ideas??


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## Rothrandir (Jun 4, 2008)

I suspected either Trim or Valcool.

I use Trim E206 also and it works very well.

In regards to mixing coolant, there is an acronym that explains the proper mixing method, OIL: Oil In Last. It emulsifies better this way, and will increase the life of your coolant.


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## Anglepoise (Jun 4, 2008)

Great set up you have there MM. It would be very nice if we all had the facilities for flood cooling. I do not have myself and have got along fine, except for drilling Titanium with HSS drills. You have had the same experience. My solution when drilling Ti without flood cooling has been a water based product called AncorLube. It has really helped in my situation where flood cooling is just not an option. Great pics by the way and thanks for sharing,


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## precisionworks (Jun 4, 2008)

That the Flexbar Latheguard, carried by J&L under their part # EYE-00078J. $60.33 (less 25% if you catch one of their bimonthly sales).

Their larger guards are higher priced, and you may want to call Tech Support at J&L to make sure this will work on the 10L.






Also, if you look at newmantools dot com, they have a detailed list of the Fexbar guards.


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## modamag (Jun 4, 2008)

I had that exact Flexbar Lathe Guard on my 10EE. IMHO it's not worth adam unless you always work next to the headstock. I ended up taking mine apart.

To mount you have several option.
1. Using the black plastic piece.
2. Drill and tap into the headstock.


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## wquiles (Jun 4, 2008)

Mirage_Man said:


> ... Funny thing is the Loc-Line was originally purchased to make a light for the lathe...



Where can I buy the "Loc-Line"?

Will


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## precisionworks (Jun 4, 2008)

J&L has a good selection of sizes & fittings (it's available in 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 inch sizes). Get the special pliers if you ever plan to add or subtract sections, they quickly pay for themselves.

Also sold by Enco & most other industrial suppliers, but many don't carry all the available fittings.


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 4, 2008)

wquiles said:


> Where can I buy the "Loc-Line"?
> 
> Will



This is where I got mine. http://www.modularhose.com/


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## wquiles (Jun 4, 2008)

Mirage_Man said:


> This is where I got mine. http://www.modularhose.com/



Cool - thanks 

Will


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## SafetyBob (Jun 5, 2008)

Brian, I got some sheet metal for my old lathe and made a copy of a commercially available back splash shield because I was slinging so much coolant againt the wall (yes I noticed yours too, haha!!), then I just got a couple of magnet bases and added line lock stuff on them and put a couple of straight, flat plastic shields bolted on them so that for the most part my front and top have coverage (moveable too) and the back has the steel keeping the splashing to a minimum. Since I got them so long ago, I think I got them at Enco as a unit and didn't have to build something up.

Perhaps you could also make a bracket to attach to your arm with the drum switch on it. That way you could lift something up and back out of the way until you start machining then lower it forward and down. 

I would suggest get some light guage steel or aluminum and bend/rivit/whatever together to make a splash shield for the back of your lathe since you are using flood coolant now. Somebody at home shop machinist has got to have made one for thiers.....

I opted not to go for the expensive Lexan cover when the cheap plastic things work well, just not as nice or as cool as the "real" thing. 

Bob E.


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## fludunlimited (Jun 5, 2008)

I started looking for the parts to build one for myself and found and ordered this lastnight

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45333


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 5, 2008)

fludunlimited said:


> I started looking for the parts to build one for myself and found and ordered this lastnight
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45333




Cool!


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## gadget_lover (Jun 5, 2008)

Let us know how well that works.

Dan


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## fludunlimited (Jun 5, 2008)

gadget_lover said:


> Let us know how well that works.
> 
> Dan


 
will do


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## fludunlimited (Jun 7, 2008)

my coolant system came today

now i need to wire in a on off switch and get some coolant on monday. here are some pics
















dose the coolant work a a cuting fluid?
since it has a magnetic base I can move it to my mill when I cut the lock bars on my knives.


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## KC2IXE (Jun 8, 2008)

Usually the coolant is also a cutting fluid - of course it all depends on what you use. I've seen the coolant tanks filled with dark sulfur cutting oil....


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## fludunlimited (Jun 9, 2008)

I got coolant in today and it works pretty good.

the flex spout and magnet base is the only thing I would change. but you get what you pay for.

here is a pic of it flowing







the drain


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 9, 2008)

fludunlimited said:


> I got coolant in today and it works pretty good.
> 
> the flex spout and magnet base is the only thing I would change. but you get what you pay for.



Cool! Glad it worked out for you. You could always replace the magnetic base and flex-line with something like what I used for not much money and still be in good shape. 

BTW it looks like you have the magnetic base attached to the back wall. Is that right? If so try attaching it to the carriage so that you can position the flow right above the cutting tool. When you move the tool the flow will stay right with it. Does that make sense?


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## fludunlimited (Jun 10, 2008)

"BTW it looks like you have the magnetic base attached to the back wall. Is that right? If so try attaching it to the carriage so that you can position the flow right above the cutting tool. When you move the tool the flow will stay right with it. Does that make sense? "


thanks
good idea.

now I just need to make somthing with it.


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