# ThruNite TN31 Review (XM-L U2 | 3 x 18650)



## turboBB (May 2, 2012)

*T*hruNite is on a roll lately, first the Flood King and now the Thrower King. They have made a name for themselves with the throwing ability of their Catapult series but the competition has stepped up their game so ThruNite has gone back to the drawing boards and released this monster with a massive 79mm (3.11in) head and super smooth and deep reflector to take on all challengers. Let's see what they have in store for us. 






*MFG SPECS*
MSRP: $220 USD
- LED: Cree XM-L U2 LED with a lifespan of 20+years of run time.
- Max 1147 lumen output using 3 * 18650 batteries.
- Level 1: 0.5 lm. 2000 hours; Level 2: 21 lm. 140 hours; Level 3: 146 lm. 22 hours; Level 4: 366 lm. 9 hours; 
Level 5: 620 lm. 5 hours; Level 6: 1147 lm. 2 hours; Standby: 65 uA; Strobe: 1147 lm. 4 hours.
- Working voltage: 4V to 13V.
- Max runtime: 2000 hours.
- Max beam distance: 700 meters.
- Peak beam intensity: 75000cd.
- Impact resistant: 1.2 meters.
- Waterproof to IPX-8 standard, 2M.
- 201.70mm length, 79.00mm bezel diameter.
- Weight: 452.80g without battery.
- Aircraft grade aluminum body structure.
- Premium type III hard anodized anti-abrasive finish.
- Ultra-clear tempered glass lens with anti-reflective coating.
- Momentary forward click tactical switch.
- Strobe mode for tactical and emergency use.
- Smooth reflector for max light output.
- Highly focused beam for maximum distance.
- Tactical knurling for firm grip.
- Streamlined body design.
- Mechanical reversed polarity protection design for battery carrier. 
- Intelligent highly efficient circuit board design for max performance and long run time.
- Specially designed for Military, Law Enforcement, Self-defense, Hunting, Search & Rescue and Outdoor activities.
- Intelligent temperature controlled light output for user safety.


*PACKAGING / CONTENTS*
None were included, I elected to forego waiting for them in order to get this review out to you guys earlier. If I receive them in the future, I'll post pics.


*CONDENSED VIDEO SUMMARY *
As with the TN30, here is a quick high-level video of the TN31 until I can flesh out the review in the coming days:



*DESIGN / FEATURES*
*[NEW 5/20:* Without the use of optics, the basic formula for creating a flashlight with great throw would involve a large reflector as a basic ingredient so the TN31 is not exempt. One look at its large reflector and you know it means buisness:




Of course the reflector is just one piece to the equation with the other half being the illumination source and in this case, the TN31 has been endowed with a XM-L U2 that is perfectly centered in the massive reflector:


 

 

All the collimated light is then projected out through a double-sided coated AR lens:




The crenelated SS bezel adds a layer of protection for these components in case it's dropped head first:


 

 



...and allows one to easily see if the light is on when stood bezel down:




Somewhere there is a tool that fits into these grooves to allow removal of the bezel but since I don't have it, I wasn't able to uninstall it:


 

 

*]* 

*[NEW 5/22: *With a little persistence I was actually able to remove the bezel. There is a clear o-ring that sits within a groove on the bottom side of it (please see reply #38 for a quick vid on reinsallation without binding it):


 



Upon removal, I noted that the lens sits on top of this rubber gasket/flange:


 

 

These are all the parts that comprise the head that is removable without the use of tools:



Clockwise from top left: SS Bezel w/o-ring, doub-sided coated AR lens, rubber flange, reflector. Center: TN31 head 

Speaking of the reflector, I measured it to be 69.5mm in diam and just shy of 64mm in depth:


 

 

 

With all that out of the way, one can have easy access to the LED should modding be desired:


 

 

*]* 

Helping to keep things cool are these fins just aft of the head, however as can be seen in the Runtime section below, the TN31 actually doesn't get all that hot:




The control ring is used to select the 6 levels of output (runs lowest from L1 to highest at L6 clockwise w/bezel away from you) as well Standby and Strobe modes. There are no explicit markings to indicate which output level you're at but the triangle indicator on the ring does align precisely with the Stand by mode (which is etched) with L6 being one click/detent away (counter-clockwise) and L1 aligning with the end of the decreasing output icon:


 

 


The solid detents coupled with the distinct and well spaced output levels enabled me to easily make a mental note of the level I was in.

The body itself features three "flat" sides of which one is unamrked, the other features the company name and slogan and the final bears the model and serial number:


 

 



There are two machined grooves that run parallel between each of these flat sides and the body features texturing that provides decent grip:


 

 



The tail cap features two attachment points for the lanyard and has flat surfaces allowing the TN31 to tailstand:


 

 

 
There is a forward clicky switch that acts as the master on/off for the light (more details in UI section).

*[NEW 5/23:* Save for the model/searial no. etched on them, the battery tube and its components is identical between the TN31 and TN30 and thus interchangeable:


 

 


 

 

Digging into the "innards" of the light, there is a spring tip for the positive battery path while the metal plate surrounding it mates with the corresponding surface of the battery carrier for the negative path:


 

 

The battery carrier aligns the cells in series and is wired in such a way that the postive/negative paths are redundant on either end thus allowing it to be inserted into the tube either way, care however still needs to be taken to ensure the batteries are inserted with the correct polarity into the carrier: 
[pic]

There are raised tips allowing the use of flat top cells, however the heatshrink can catch on the edges during removal:




Both my shortest cells (AW IMR 1600 @ 65.2mm) and longest (XTAR 18700 @ 69.2mm) had no problems fitting in the carrier length-wise, however as per my video review, cells with wider diameters will have difficulty being inserted/removed from the tube:


 

 

The "tail cap" can be removed allowing access to the switch. The aluminum retaining ring helps ensure water resistance for the rubber tailcap and there is an o-ring around it that serves the same purpose:


 

 

 

Anodizing has been removed on the edge that the switch PCB sits on. The threads aren't square-cut on either end but I had no difficulties during threading:


 

 

 
They are however anodized thus allowing lock-out at the head (the tailcap wasn't really meant to be removed).

While the switch itself is mechanical, there are additional chips and resistors integrated into the PCB it's soldered to:


 

 

I measured full voltage @ 12.55v with the battery carrier isolated, but it dropped to 10.34v with the switch inline and turned on and nothing when off:









 

The switch itself draws 9.56μA when turned on (again isolated w/just the battery carrier) and measured either through the negative spring or the ground/negative path on the PCB. I however wasn't able to measure any draw when it was off:








 

With the switch wired inline w/the head, I measured the current draw of Stand by mode to be 8.55μA when on (this jumps to 91μA without the switch) and nothing when off:


 

*]*


*SIZE & HANDLING*



L to R: Sunwayman V60C | Lumapower D65V w/TurboForce Kit | ThruNite TN31 | Lighten7 Max L2A | SureFire M3LT | Sunwayman T40CS | XTAR S1 (Production)

I threw in a mix of coventional throwers that have their batteries in-line (darn it, that was the word I was searching for in the video ) as well as those that have it in parallel arrangement. I also threw in the XTAR S1 for size-reference. The TN31 is a large light! 

*[NEW 5/20: *Even so, I still found it manageable with my medium sized hand and operating the control ring with two fingers was relatively easy (albeit slightly difficult w/just the thumb):


 

 

 
As expalined in my video review, the one thing I did have problems with was the semi-sharp recess where the thumb rests over to access the tailcap.*]*


*UI
*The tailcap switch acts as the master on/off. When it is off, the control ring is non-functional. With the tailcap switch on, the UI is very straightforward as follows (with light pointed away from you and going clockwise from L to R):
- Six increasing levels of output (from L1 @ .5lms through L6 @ 1147lms)
- Standby
- Strobe

The levels are generally well spaced, although I find that visually, there doesn't seem to be a very distinct difference between levels 6 to 5 and 5 to 4. It would have been better if these were spaced further apart. The super low of .5lms makes the light very usable with dark adapted eyes but given it is a thrower after all, the pinpoint hotspot is not particularly useful. The standby to be useful since it allows the light to be "shut-off" with one-handed use rather than having to reach around to the tail-cap to shut it off. Current draw is absolutely trivial (8.6µA) so is of no concern (see Runtime section for further details).


*BEAMSHOTS
Indoors (5m)
*L6







 

 



L5


 

 



L4


 

 



L3


 

 



L2


 

 



L1


 

 

 
For details of the above indoor shots and comparo vs. many other lights, please check Epic Indoor Shots Trilogy

*Whitewall Hunting
*Exposure settings in sequential reading-order from top left: 1/25, 1/100, 1/800, 1/1600 @ f2.9 on AWB (light is ~.4m to wall / camera ~.59m):









 

*OUTDOORS*
Still negotiating to get back into the underpass but for now, here is an outdoor vid of the TN31 vs. a few other lights:


*[NEW 6/4: **500ft (152.4m) beach shot:*




*40ft (12.2m) campsite shot:
*



*100ft (30.5m) tree top shot:
*


Full details and comparos vs. other lights in this thread.

Also, here is a mini video review I did while camping (best to check thread linked above in beach beamshot before viewing this to get a better understanding of the route taken as well as a layout of the campsite):
*]

*
*RUNTIME
*The relevant battery stats are provided above each runtime graph along with: 
- Voltage of the battery at the start and end of the test
- Current draw as taken right before the test
- Actual runtime using ANSI FL1 (first in HR and then in M so for the RL3100 read this as 1.5hrs _OR_ 91min)
- Also for High, captured the temperature: ambient, the head at start and the max it reached (fan was used for all bats)




As with the TN30, there is a subtle but distinct step down after 1.1 minutes, but it's only about 100lms. After that it does two more tiny step downs and then one step up as if trying to find a sweet spot and then runs just about nearly perfectly regulated for the rest of the run. Shortly after 123min, the low voltage warning (3-4 blinks every min or so) kicked and at 127 min, one of the RL3100's PCB finally kicked in terminating the run.

As can be seen, heat isn't really an issue and based on lessons learned from the TN30 run, I was able to validate that the highest heat point would be right aft of the control ring so I placed the thermocouple there. The TN31 only got to a high of 96F with the heat dissapation likely greatly aided by the large head, reflector and the copper heat sink within.

So there you have it folks, an amazing thrower with great run time and very well regulated output to boot. Good job ThruNite! :twothumbs

*[EDIT 5/8:* I redid the output and runtime to conform to more accurate measurement (see output measurement vid below for details). The above runtime chart reflects the new run. Runtime achieved w/the RL3100's this time was 126min before the low voltage warning started blinking. This time I shut off the light before the PCB could kick-in.


*MEASURED PERFORMANCE *
*L6 - 1270lms (ANSI FL1) | 1139lms (avg for regulated run) | 87.2K lux @ 1m*

I redid the output meaurement and runtime after recalibrating the sensor. I feel this is more accurate and would rather err on the side of underestimating (during calibration). Hit up the video for details but bottom line is that I feel that the 1147lms for L6 claimed by ThruNite is totally realistic.

The output of 1270lms is according to ANSI FL1 (measured @ 31 seconds), however this is before the step down at roughly 1 minute. The actual average output for the entire regulated run after that is: 1139lms*]*



=======
TN31 provided by ThruNite for review


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## woody1 (May 2, 2012)

Cant wait to order this one, i know its goin to be a good thrower, with that big reflector.


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## woody1 (May 2, 2012)

Just got the XTAR S1, so hope the TN31 will be as good a build quality.


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## kj2 (May 2, 2012)

Looking good. Comparion with the Fenix TK41 and Sunwayman T40CS would be nice


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## iron potato (May 2, 2012)

kj2 said:


> Looking good. Comparion with the Fenix TK41 and Sunwayman T40CS would be nice



+1


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## kj2 (May 2, 2012)

kj2 said:


> Looking good. Comparion with the Fenix TK41 and Sunwayman T40CS would be nice





iron potato said:


> +1



Or with the TK70. TN31 will out-throw the TK41 and T40CS easily.


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## riccardo.dv (May 2, 2012)

kj2 said:


> Or with the TK70. TN31 will out-throw the TK41 and T40CS easily.



I wanna see _how much_ it will out throw them


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## BWX (May 2, 2012)

Wonder how deep reflector is..


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## jmpaul320 (May 2, 2012)

another one to add to my want list along with the new xtar


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## TEEJ (May 2, 2012)

It ain't official until I have beam shots.

:devil:

Too many lights claim magical unicorn throw #'s based on math...but, if trying to SEE something out there...well, the math tends to lie, especially if using the 0.25 lux dogma.


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## orbital (May 2, 2012)

+

I'v been back to this thread a few times now, 
there hasn't been a light that's got my attention like this for a while.

The guy who first said_ Flashlight Porn, _never saw this thing :devil:

~the tight carrier issue is a bit of a concern, especially if cells heat up ect.. 
maybe try unprotected 18650s'??


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## BLUE LED (May 2, 2012)

The ThruNite TN31 has all the hallmarks of a quality thrower, although I suspect it will have a step down. I would try to resist a purchase, but I fear resistance is futile oo:


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## TEEJ (May 2, 2012)

orbital said:


> +
> 
> I'v been back to this thread a few times now,
> there hasn't been a light that's got my attention like this for a while.
> ...



I'd avoid unprotected cells, its not worth the risks.

I'd use a thinner cell before dropping protection.


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## orbital (May 2, 2012)

^

Most my cells are unprotected. 
The whole danger/risk thing people try to portray makes me laugh.

If I get this light, it'll have three bone stock NCR18650A cells in it.


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## turboBB (May 3, 2012)

Thx guys! Indoor Shots @ 5m now added. Lux @ 1m measured at 87.2K, while this is higher than TN's claim of 70K, the calculated beam distance at 591m is roughly 100 short (vs. 700m claimed). Still pretty darn good!

Also, the pics aren't color corrected perfectly, it's not as green as it shows. Owing to the large reflector there are some artifacts around the hotspot which I will show in the whitewall shots later.

Cheers,
Tim


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## kj2 (May 3, 2012)

turboBB said:


> Thx guys! Indoor Shots @ 5m now added. Lux @ 1m measured at 87.2K, while this is higher than TN's claim of 70K, the calculated beam distance at 591m is roughly 100 short (vs. 700m claimed). Still pretty darn good!
> 
> Also, the pics aren't color corrected perfectly, it's not as green as it shows. Owing to the large reflector there are some artifacts around the hotspot which I will show in the whitewall shots later.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the review 
But about 591 meters, that way lower than the 700 they say.


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## ma_sha1 (May 3, 2012)

Nice! This might be the highest production light lux outside of the two monster sized led lights, I.E. TK70/SR90. 

Now, with light approaching 100K lux, it might be necessary to measure at 10 meters instead of 5, to avoid possible sweet spot. 
The sweet spot is the junction when the beam converge & the diverge (many lights do that, including reflector lights) 
Narrow beam, usually higher throw, will have sweet spot at longer distance, thus, need to measure it out at further distance to avoid artificially high lux conversions.
I had a military short arc light measured at 10 meters as 2million cp & then only 800K when measured at 100 meters, it happened to hit it's sweet spot at 10m. When ever I have doubt about lux numbers, I move it out to longer distance just to be sure. 

My typical rule of thumb on measuring distance for lux conversion 
~10K lux, 5 meters
~100k lux 10 meters
~1 million lux, 30 meters
~10 Million lux, 100meters

Sorry, I do not have a light that can reach 100 million lux yet 














turboBB said:


> Thx guys! Indoor Shots @ 5m now added. Lux @ 1m measured at 87.2K, while this is higher than TN's claim of 70K, the calculated beam distance at 591m is roughly 100 short (vs. 700m claimed). Still pretty darn good!
> 
> Also, the pics aren't color corrected perfectly, it's not as green as it shows. Owing to the large reflector there are some artifacts around the hotspot which I will show in the whitewall shots later.
> 
> ...


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## TEEJ (May 3, 2012)

ma_sha1 said:


> Nice! This might be the highest production light lux outside of the two monster sized led lights, I.E. TK70/SR90.
> 
> Now, with light approaching 100K lux, it might be necessary to measure at 10 meters instead of 5, to avoid possible sweet spot.
> The sweet spot is the junction when the beam converge & the diverge (many lights do that, including reflector lights)
> ...



Would the diameter and/or depth of the reflector, relative to the emitter, influence the beam converge/diverge points?

I would think that as the starting Lux for the above rules of thumb use lux, you are using the lux you think you have, to pick a point for the lux measurement? Is that like using a word in its own definition? 


Or is it like selecting a range for your DMM, where you assume it might be over 100k lux, but less than a million, and use 10 M, or maybe 10 M and then 20 M if you think its closer to 1/2 Mil, and see what you get, and so forth?


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## AlexGT (May 3, 2012)

Thanks for your review, would love to see long distance beamshots compared to any of the known XML throwers (Catapult, DBS, M1X, 7G5, MRV, M3C4, SR51, etc)

AlexGT


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## Stol3n (May 3, 2012)

AlexGT said:


> Thanks for your review, would love to see long distance beamshots compared to any of the known XML throwers (Catapult, DBS, M1X, 7G5, MRV, M3C4, SR51, etc)
> 
> AlexGT



As would I.


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## ma_sha1 (May 3, 2012)

TEEJ said:


> Would the diameter and/or depth of the reflector, relative to the emitter, influence the beam converge/diverge points?
> 
> I would think that as the starting Lux for the above rules of thumb use lux, you are using the lux you think you have, to pick a point for the lux measurement? Is that like using a word in its own definition?
> 
> ...



Yes, the led to reflection distance will alter the sweet spot. The rule of thumb is not perfect, but useful.
It is an improvement over putting every light at 5 meters.
Altenatively, one needs to read at two distance & see if the number agrees, if not then extend the distance & try again, that would be too much work.


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## turboBB (May 3, 2012)

Thx guys, runtime on L6 added now. Look at that regulation!

@woody1 - nice avatar! 



BWX said:


> Wonder how deep reflector is..


I'd say it's roughly 74mm (approx. 2.9") deep, however don't quote me on that. Without taking the head apart, that's just a best guesstimate (but a pretty good one).

I unfortunately don't really have a huge inventory of throwers but I'll do my best to see what I can come up for outdoor long distance shots and video. Weather hasn't been great here these few days so hopefully I'll get to it over the weekend.

@ma_sha1/teej - I'll try taking lux at different distances and post those results when done.

EDIT: Didn't have any trouble with the RL3100's and inserting the carrier into the tube.

Cheers,
Tim


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## turboBB (May 8, 2012)

Outdoor shots of video comparo of TN31 vs. a few other lights are now up in OP (don't forget to flip to 720P if you're going to compare beams). Sorry that it's poorly done (blurry on some lights), I'm still learning how to make vids but lessons learned from this shoot has given me ideas for improvement on the next one.

Here are the lights (DBS V2 is off to the right somewhere):







Timeline in the vid (I have included titles as well)
ThruNite TN31 - 1:32
XTAR S1 (prod) - 2:09
Sunwayman T40CS - 3:08
ThruNite TN30 - 4:02
Niteye EYE30 / EYE25 - 5:11 / 5:55
ThruNite TN 11 (2 x 18650) - 6:43
NITECORE TM11 - 7:19
Sunwayman V60C - 8:07
SureFire M3LT (MC-E) - 8:48
Klarus XT20 - 9:38
Lighten7 Max L2A - 10:25
Dereelight DBS V2 (w/UF XM-L) - 11:07

Distance to the fence I was shining at is 246ft (75m) and to the bleachers approx. +10-15 ft.

EDIT: I also redid the measured performance and runtime (again please refer to OP).

Cheers,
Tim


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## candle lamp (May 10, 2012)

Excellent review and many thanks for your time & effort. Tim! :thumbsup:
This light is a real thrower.


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## rickypanecatyl (May 16, 2012)

Tim - thanks for the review!

2 quick questions...

What is that PVC pipe contraption thingy?  Is that like some kind of an integrating sphere?

Could you comment on the lowest mode of the TN31? I love really low lows and I've found that usually the lowest mode has the most variance between both reality and manufactures claims and also between different units. (i.e. selfbuilt had something like a moonlight of .6 and 4 lumens between 2 differnt models of the same light on one report). What's your best of the lumens on low? Seriously below 1 lumen?

Any word on wether they will make a diffuser for this light?

Thannks!


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## turboBB (May 16, 2012)

Thx KH!

@ricky - Ah yes, my PVC LMD serves as my Integrating Tube until I get my IS set up. You can read the full details here. As for the lowest mode, you can comfortably look directly into it. It's roughly comparable to say the SWM V10/V11 series but not as low as a JB TCR1 can go.

I'm still working through the review on this one and will have answers for you shortly (in which I'll measure the lowest setting).

Cheers,
Tim


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## vinhnguyen54 (May 16, 2012)

Where is the video link? I cant find it. Thanks!


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## turboBB (May 16, 2012)

The videos are all embedded in the review. Was there a particulare one you were looking for?


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## vinhnguyen54 (May 16, 2012)

turboBB said:


> The videos are all embedded in the review. Was there a particulare one you were looking for?



The videos work now  Thanks for all your work! The TN31 didn't seem to throw as good as I expected. 

I lied! I watch it over. It throws great! Have to save up for one now!


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## turboBB (May 16, 2012)

All, whitewall shots now added.

@V54 - Yeah, it's actually an excellent thrower (currently my best) and sorry, that vid was not too good but TEEJ has offered to help make a new one (plus he's got the really big guns, SR90 de-domed, etc.) so we'll post that with actual lux measurements whenever I can clear up some time on the weekend.


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## vinhnguyen54 (May 17, 2012)

Buyin one for sure now!


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## BLUE LED (May 17, 2012)

I have a TN31 coming. I hope it arrives before Sat 16th June. I am hoping to bring this to the CPF meet.


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## Mar (May 17, 2012)

Hopefully I get mine this week, need it to locate distance objects for a contest though I do have other throwers.


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## turboBB (May 17, 2012)

Hi RickyP,

Didn't want to just tell you but rather show you... =o) Hope that helps.


Cheers,
Tim


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## BMAN (May 18, 2012)

TN 31 arrived today.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...good-thrower&p=3946317&viewfull=1#post3946317


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## rickypanecatyl (May 20, 2012)

Wow Tim - thanks for the extremely thorough answer to my question!! Much appreciated!

I ended up getting one so now get to see for myself. Just before I saw your response I was comparing the lowest lows of my varapower (cu heatsink, regular head, dedomed), jetbeam rrt0 variable, Thrunite scorpion, TN31, rex photon keychain light (4 led pinch light w/rechargeable batteries) and Eagletac D25 and G25C2.

From low to high here are my "subjective visual" thoughts:

1. Varapower - of 32 settings the lowest 3 are lower than the jetbeam RRT0 varable. Don't have a trit to compare to but can't imagine it's much brighter than that.
2. Rex photon light - adjusted down to the lowest setting. Almost no hotspot - great "read in bed w/out disturbing your wife" light!
3. Jetbeam RRT0 - Not much brighter than the Rex; definately a distinction between the hotspot and spill but nothing like the TN31.
4. Thrunite Scorpion V2 w/turbohead. Still very low but WAIT... hold the press... I can explain the TN31 better now**
5. Thrunite TN31 - high lux for low lumens. Not the best read in bed light AS IS, but would be excellent with a diffuser.
6 & 7. Both Eagletacs lowest low are in a completely different category; much brighter.

** Random thought - though the varapower on lowest setting is much lower than the lowest setting on the Rex or the Jetbeam, I still can clearly see the hotspot on the ceiling 5' above me in the pitch dark (I can also easily look directly into the LED with no discomfort.) The scorpion's hotspot on firefly though is much more disting than the varapower. HOWEVER, when I take the head off the scorpion so that there is no reflecor I can see absolutely nothing, nada on the ceiling. 
The lumens can't have gone down - what changed was the lux. 

The TN31 @ 1/2 a lumen almost appears as bright as the Eagletac at 5 lumens. I'd love a diffuser for it as then you could have the best of both worlds. Without the diffuser, you have the intensity of a normal 5 lumen light with the runtime of .5 lumens (think enough light to hike on jungle trails in the night for 9 months!). With the diffuser I'm sure it would be a nice, soft beam!


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## turboBB (May 20, 2012)

You're welcome! As you've noticed with your expirements, the measured output at low levels doesn't really jive with the true output at the emitter. At these low levels, how far that emitter is away from the sensor makes a huge difference (even with a real IS). In this case, given the very deep reflector, the TN31's low ouput measures lower than what it's truly outputting.

All,
Designs & Features and Size & Handling sections now fleshed out.

Cheers,
Tim


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## turboBB (May 22, 2012)

I was actually able to remove the SS bezel so I've added a bunch of new stuff about it (search 5/22). Also, here's a quick vid/tip for reinstalling it without binding the o-ring:


Cheers,
Tim


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## rickypanecatyl (May 24, 2012)

Cool! I'm seeing if Michael at OMG lumens can make a diffuser film for it and was hoping to be able to easily remove the bezel and have the film larger than the inner diameter/smaller than the OD of it.


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## turboBB (Jun 4, 2012)

Went camping in RI last week and got to do long distance beamshots as well as camping use mini video review (search 6/4).

Cheers,
Tim


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## luceat lux vestra (Jun 12, 2012)

If this is a stupid question I apologize in advance.
Whats the standby mode for??????????????????:shakehead


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## turboBB (Jun 12, 2012)

Instant one-handed access to strobe or output levels without the need to first depress a switch. While the control ring is reasonably firm, the switch greatly reduces the likelihood of accidental activation without needing to lock out the light.


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## harro (Jul 21, 2012)

Hi turboBB. Watched your vid on replacing the bezel, very helpful tks. Does the lens just sit on the 'o'ring between it and the reflector? With the 'o'ring behind the bezel, is it located in a recess or groove, and is it stuck in place, or can it be removed without too many problems??
Many thanks;
Mike.


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## turboBB (Jul 22, 2012)

Working from the reflector onwards towards the bezel:

Reflector -> Rubber Gasket/Flange -> Lens -> O-Ring -> Bezel

The O-Ring itself should be installed around a "lip" on the underside of the bezel and you should be able to see the SS bezel itself within the inner diameter of the O-Ring as shown around the 3 o'clock position of the bezel in this pic:




Hope that answers your question but do let me know if you have more.

Cheers,
Tim


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## harro (Jul 23, 2012)

turboBB said:


> Working from the reflector onwards towards the bezel:
> 
> Reflector -> Rubber Gasket/Flange -> Lens -> O-Ring -> Bezel
> 
> ...



Thankyou Tim;
What you've shown me is exactly what i was wanting to know!!
Best Regards and keep up with the informative reviews;
Many Tks;
Mike.


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## harro (Jul 24, 2012)

Hello turboBB ( Tim );
Whilst watching your vid on reinstalling the bezel, i heard you say how difficult it was to do without the proper tool. I'm certain you would know this one, but if not, give it a go. This saves ripping skin off your hands from sharpish edges and gives you more leverage. Take an old bicycle innertube and cut out a section about 1 foot long. Slit this piece lengthways so you have a flat piece of thin rubber. You can then wrap this around bezel's, heads, tailcaps etc. Makes undoing and reinstalling heaps easier.


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## veedo (Jul 24, 2012)

Any pointers on how to clean this massive lens? I tried warm water and a little dish soap while drying with a microfiber cloth, but i still have bits of steaks that drive me nuts. I don't want to end up scratching the lens.


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## biglights (Jul 24, 2012)

veedo said:


> Any pointers on how to clean this massive lens? I tried warm water and a little dish soap while drying with a microfiber cloth, but i still have bits of steaks that drive me nuts. I don't want to end up scratching the lens.



I have had the best luck cleaning it when its cool. I am just using a microfiber cloth that came with my 3D glasses. I have noticed really bad streaking trying to clean it when ever it is even the slightest bit warm.


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## turboBB (Jul 24, 2012)

@harro - thx for the tip! I'm now using the rubber grips used to open jar tops.

@veedo - like biglights, I also use a microfiber towel and just the condensation from my breath. Here's a thread with lots of good tips that might help:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...7-What-s-the-best-way-to-clean-ar-coated-lens

Good luck!


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## DON KIDIK (Sep 1, 2012)

Thanks for a great review,video ive seen a while ago,but only just read the review[almost it all].

Thanks for the time and trouble


DON...


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## tobrien (Sep 1, 2012)

how's the NW version of this that Battery Junction sells? how much decreased lumen count does one get? any decrease in lux?

turbobb your review was amazing btw!


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## sbbsga (Sep 1, 2012)

tobrien said:


> how's the NW version of this that Battery Junction sells? how much decreased lumen count does one get? any decrease in lux?



The numbers and figures that I received from Thrunite back then were 1050 max lumens, XM-L T6, 5,500K bin.


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## GReaper (Nov 22, 2012)

Just got my TN30 and TN31 today.
However there was a problem getting the TN30 to work.
It would not light at all, only on low in all modes and maybe 1 in 10 times i reseated the battery holder, it would work as it should.

After changing batteries and battery holders between the TN30 and the TN31, i found that the problem was with the battery holder.

The voltages were ok, and only after half an hour, I found the problem.

One of the metal discs on the end of the battery holder, weren't centered, so when it is put into the flashlight, it would short circuit against the wall.
Solution was easy. Just unscrew the 3 screws and recenter the disc.
I will propably insulate the sides of the disc, using tape or paint.

Some pictures:

Before centering:











After Centering:


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## makapuu (Nov 22, 2012)

Nice tip GReaper.
Although I don't have a problem with mine, you made me take a second look, thanks


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## sbbsga (Nov 22, 2012)

Thank you GReaper and :welcome:


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