# Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A



## ernsanada (Jul 10, 2007)

I just received the Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A from Kai Domain.

https://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=2255

Shipping took 16 days.

Uses Cree P4.

Can be used as a 2AA or CR2 size light.

1 stage reverse clickie.

Come with a lanyard.

Fit and finish is excellent.

Type II Anodize has some flaws in the finish.

Costs $20.42.






















CR2 Size














































Cree module screws out very easy!





































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Left to right, Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A, Lumapower M1 Cree, Jet Beam CL-E






Left to right, Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A, Lumapower M1 Cree, Jet Beam CL-E







In the following beam shots the Energizer 2300mAh Rechargeable AA's were used in the Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A and the Jet Beam CL-E.

The Lumapower M1 Cree used a Tenergy 18650 Li-Ion Rechargeable Battery.







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Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A @ 78"






Lumapower M1 Cree @ 78"






Jet Beam CL-E @ 78"






Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A @ 78" Stepped down exposure.






Lumapower M1 Cree @ 78" Stepped down exposure.






Jet Beam CL-E @ 78" Stepped down exposure.






Left, Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A. Right, Lumapower M1 Cree @ 78" 






Left, Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A. Right, Jet Beam CL-E @ 78"






Left, Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A. Right, Lumapower M1 Cree @ 78" Stepped down exposure.






Left, Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A. Right, Jet Beam CL-E @ 78" Stepped down exposure.







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I think if you are interested in an inexpensive 2AA Cree light this might be a light for you.

The Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A has a nice beam and nice tint.

I am going to use this light at work. I lost my Mag Led 2AA so I think this light will be a good replacement.


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## vic2367 (Jul 10, 2007)

nice review :twothumbs


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## nanotech17 (Jul 11, 2007)

I am going to use this light at work. I lost my Mag Led 2AA so I think this light will be a good replacement.[/quote]

Me too.very nice light and always in my bag to work


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## kosPap (Jul 11, 2007)

nanotech17 said:


> I am going to use this light at work. I lost my Mag Led 2AA so I think this light will be a good replacement.


 
Me too.very nice light and always in my bag to work [/quote]

+1 from me...

I intend to replace my MinimagLED in my camera bag...One of my cameras runs on CR2s so the choice was obvious. I had been waiting for more than a year for buying in hope something better came out and presto! Cree version!

Also this is a great gift flashlight. It runs on AA and has a clickie!

enjoy & thanks ernsanda, kostas


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## flame2000 (Jul 11, 2007)

If runtime is not too bad, I might get one too.


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## ernsanada (Jul 11, 2007)

There is a natural version of this light.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4568


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## Phaserburn (Jul 11, 2007)

What is the current draw when using the two nimh AA cells?


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## ernsanada (Jul 11, 2007)

Phaserburn said:


> What is the current draw when using the two nimh AA cells?




2.12V


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## ernsanada (Jul 11, 2007)

Current draw on AW's Protected RCR2 is 3.38V.


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## ernsanada (Jul 11, 2007)

Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A, Energizer 2300mAh Rechargeable AA's @ 78"






Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A, AW's Protected RCR2 @ 78"






Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A, Energizer 2300mAh Rechargeable AA's @ 78" Stepped down exposure.






Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A, AW's Protected RCR2 Stepped down exposure.






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In the Stepped down exposure the Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A, AW's Protected RCR2 looks a little brighter.


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## nanotech17 (Jul 11, 2007)

i use sanyo eneloop.


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## ernsanada (Jul 11, 2007)

Lumapower M1 Cree @ 78" Stepped down exposure.






Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A, AW's Protected RCR2. Stepped down exposure.






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Wow! The Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A, AW's Protected RCR2 is a little pocket rocket!


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## Phaserburn (Jul 11, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> 2.12V


 
thanks, but actually I was talking about how much current in milliamps the light draws from two nimhs. This will determine roughly what the runtime will be.


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## ernsanada (Jul 11, 2007)

Phaserburn said:


> thanks, but actually I was talking about how much current in milliamps the light draws from two nimhs. This will determine roughly what the runtime will be.




What's the best way to measure milliamps?


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## nanotech17 (Jul 12, 2007)

unfortunately my sanyo 2700mah too fat for the battery tube.
Ernsanada,
The AW rcr2 - is it 3.0v or 3.7v?


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## Phaserburn (Jul 12, 2007)

Ernsanada - You'll need a digital multimeter (often referred to as a DMM). A DMM will measure voltage and current; volts and amps. They are available at Radio Shack (and many other places) for not alot of money, and are invaluable to the flashaholic, especially one who does excellent reviews/pics!

For example: for this light, let's say you find the current draw to be 800ma (milliamps). If you're using 2500ma capacity nimh AAs, you can figure you'll be getting fairly close to 3 hours runtime (3 x 800ma = 2400ma). And as nimh cell voltage discharge is fairly flat, you know you'll be getting decent output "regulation" in addition to whatever the circuit is doing.


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## ernsanada (Jul 12, 2007)

Phaserburn said:


> Ernsanada - You'll need a digital multimeter (often referred to as a DMM). A DMM will measure voltage and current; volts and amps. They are available at Radio Shack (and many other places) for not alot of money, and are invaluable to the flashaholic, especially one who does excellent reviews/pics!
> 
> For example: for this light, let's say you find the current draw to be 800ma (milliamps). If you're using 2500ma capacity nimh AAs, you can figure you'll be getting fairly close to 3 hours runtime (3 x 800ma = 2400ma). And as nimh cell voltage discharge is fairly flat, you know you'll be getting decent output "regulation" in addition to whatever the circuit is doing.




I do have a DMM.






Where do I measure on the light to take the current draw?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Where do I set the rotarty knob?


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## __philippe (Jul 12, 2007)

Set switch on position 10A A DC (Amperes / Direct Current)
Plug probes in "COM" and "10A" connectors

Cheers,

__philippe


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## FlashCrazy (Jul 12, 2007)

Configure the meter like filippe said, then take the tailcap off of the light. With batteries installed in the light, place the meter's black lead on the negative end of the battery, and then touch the red lead to a bare area at the tail of the light...right at the end of the body tube, or on the threads...wherever you can find a good ground point. When doing current measurements, the DMM acts as the light's switch, completing the path from the battery/ies negative to the light's body.

Using the 10A scale of your meter, say you get a measurement of .73 or something like that. This means .73 amp, or 730 mA. Have fun!


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## LGCubana (Jul 12, 2007)

Using an AW 3.7v, 350mAh (RCR2)
.832 - .838 mAh

Maxell Gold, CR2
.690 - .695

Depending on my point of contact on the rim of the base.


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## ernsanada (Jul 12, 2007)

Thanks everybody!!! :twothumbs


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## ernsanada (Jul 12, 2007)

I just checked the measurements.

Energizer 2300mAh Rechargeable AA's. - .78mAh

AW's Protected RCR2 350mAh. - .87mAh


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## ernsanada (Jul 12, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> I just checked the measurements.
> 
> Energizer 2300mAh Rechargeable AA's. - .78mAh
> 
> AW's Protected RCR2 350mAh. - .87mAh




Phazerburn is this correct?

Energizer 2300mAh Rechargeable AA's. - .78mAh = 2.948 hrs.


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## Phaserburn (Jul 12, 2007)

Correct. When figuring realistic runtimes, you have to account for voltage decline (even in nimh) which will lower current draw as it goes along as well as imperfect battery performance or loss of capacity at a high load. For me, I simply take 80% of the rated capacity then do my math and it usually comes pretty close on all counts. So, 2300x80%=1840. 1840ma/780draw=2.36 hrs or 142 mins approx.

As you can see, your readings also quantify why the light is brighter on the CR2 li-ion; the 4.2V, being higher than the 2.4-2.6V of the nimh AAs, is pushing 870ma. In addition, the 780ma of the AAs doesn't all reach the led; the boost circuit is taking some of it and converting it to the voltage needed to drive the led. When the voltage exceeds the Vin for the led, lights with these kinds of circuits often go into direct drive with the 870ma being sent to the led (minus small losses in the circuit).


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## Zefiryn (Jul 12, 2007)

Can You be so kind and measure width of cree module, just wondering if it can be replaced with 5 mode one.


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## ernsanada (Jul 12, 2007)

Zefiryn said:


> Can You be so kind and measure width of cree module, just wondering if it can be replaced with 5 mode one.



18.65mm or .734" at the threads.


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## ernsanada (Jul 12, 2007)

I just received the Natural version from Deal Extreme. This model is the Ultrafire WF-606A1. 

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4568


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## ernsanada (Jul 12, 2007)

The black Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A has a slight blue tint to it's beam.

The natural Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A1 has a slight green tint to it's beam.

Left, Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A1 (Black). Right, Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A1 (Natural) @ 78"






Left, Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A1 (Black). Right, Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A1 (Natural) @ 78". Stepped down exposure.


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## ernsanada (Jul 12, 2007)

I picked up a Bianchi Compact Light Holder, Model # 7311.


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## Zefiryn (Jul 13, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> 18.65mm or .734" at the threads.



Thanx, it won't fit, 5mode is 20mm width.


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## kosPap (Jul 17, 2007)

Just received mine today...

I am not that happy with it.

I expected soem more output from it and tint is greenish ala Fenix style

BUT the worst is the Pill assmbly. The LEd disc is not glued on teh aluminum heatsink. The is thrmal compound underneath but not much. and worst the wires come under it so the is no chance of using alumina epoxy if you intend to replacing the led sometime.

The LED disc is set in palce by reflector pressure alone, but i will be gluing it with cyanoacrylate at the discs rim...

Switch is soft too...

HM I expected more from it over all. If this is typical of ultrafire quality then this brand is the lowwest aceptable standard to buy...

enjoy, kostas


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## ernsanada (Jul 25, 2007)

I received 2 more Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A's from Deal Extreme. 

Shipping took 8 days.

Both lights have good tints. No green tint noted!

A couple of guys at work wanted them.


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## Pitto (Aug 2, 2007)

Just got mine delivered here at work. not being a "flashaholic" as such, and owning 3 mini mags and a 4D cell mag to compare to, i think the quality is fantastic and for the price, its a great buy.


i just put brand new alkalins in and have been seeing spots for the last 10 minuts. 


I am keen to buy a silver one now and ebay my mini mags :huh:

G


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## ernsanada (Aug 2, 2007)

Pitto said:


> Just got mine delivered here at work. not being a "flashaholic" as such, and owning 3 mini mags and a 4D cell mag to compare to, i think the quality is fantastic and for the price, its a great buy.
> 
> 
> i just put brand new alkalins in and have been seeing spots for the last 10 minuts.
> ...



I also think the light is a great buy. Low price. Comes with a glass lens and aluminum reflector. Uses common AA's.

If you have a RCR2 drop that in. The light gets brighter, a little pocket rocket!


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## kosPap (Aug 2, 2007)

hmmm more thoughts on this one

1. My reflector is plastic...not taht it ,atters much in this package...

2. Indeed it is gonna replace my 2AA MiniMagLED (worst buy ever!)

3. I bought one to try. Then buy more for gifts, sale. I did not like the soft switch, that extends

BUT...when I dissasebled it I found the rubber boot is too long and a 0.2 inch aluminum slug is used to make contact. I will be trying some GID tailcaps from DX which are lower and that will maybe improved the issue.

Overall good light for sure....Imagine putting a Q5 bin!


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## Essexman (Aug 2, 2007)

Thanks for bringing this little monster to my attention with your review.

I had seen this product on the DX site but wasn't sure about it. After reading your review I got one. No problems with mine, very well made and good finish too. 

With 2AA it's bright, with an RCR2 (taken from my Orb raw) it's REALLY bright. 

The only change I made was to the switch rubber cap. I removed the black standard boot and replaced with a bright orange one (also from DX), makes a nice contrast in colour.

What's really fun is using it in stubby form and passing it to the chaps at work. The look on their faces when they first turn it on is classic. 

But this now means they want one, I see another order going in soon from me.


I'm waiting for a Cree Q5 emitter to arrive and plan to upgrade soon, I'll post the results when I complete it.


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## Pitto (Aug 2, 2007)

Some comparison pics to compliment the review done in this thread.

standard mini mag and victorinox swiss tool




























G


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## blinky (Aug 2, 2007)

How far will this light throw?


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## protein_man (Aug 3, 2007)

Well Blinky that depends on who's throwing it!


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## blinky (Aug 3, 2007)

haha


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## Essexman (Aug 7, 2007)

A funny thing happened at the weekend with this torch. I was quickly checking some AA batts out and put a couple of almost dead AA's in. Turned in on and it flashed on-off-on-off. I'm wondering if it have a low voltage warning ?????
Can someone else try some dead AA's and see what happens please??


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## kosPap (Aug 7, 2007)

I will do it tonight....


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## Pitto (Aug 7, 2007)

Essexman said:


> A funny thing happened at the weekend with this torch. I was quickly checking some AA batts out and put a couple of almost dead AA's in. Turned in on and it flashed on-off-on-off. I'm wondering if it have a low voltage warning ?????
> Can someone else try some dead AA's and see what happens please??



yup, mine did that the first time i put in a set of batteries, i didnt realize they were old, then put a brand new set in and it works great.

G


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## Essexman (Aug 8, 2007)

Cheers guys, thought it was just me. 

Still waiting for my Q5....yawn......


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## ampdude (Sep 3, 2007)

Thinking of picking one up for work myself. I have a couple of questions to pose towards WF-606A owners.

I assume the natural version is just gunmetal gray and not hard anodized, since there is no mention of it on the site, is this correct?

Also, I have a couple of old 2AA minimag holsters, how well does it fit in one of those?

Thanks!


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## ernsanada (Sep 3, 2007)

ampdude said:


> Thinking of picking one up for work myself. I have a couple of questions to pose towards WF-606A owners.
> 
> I assume the natural version is just gunmetal gray and not hard anodized, since there is no mention of it on the site, is this correct?
> 
> ...




AA Mini Mag holster is too small. A Streamlight 1 Watt Luxeon holster works.

I'm not sure about the natural version but it's probably Type II Anodize.

The only drawback I can see is the rear clicke is very sensitive. Very easy to turn on amd off.


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## Gnufsh (Sep 25, 2007)

Is thew LED star mounted? Would it be an easy swap to Q5?


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## kosPap (Sep 25, 2007)

the led is on a mini board, like this: 

It justs sits on thermal epoxy and is kept in place by the reflector. Provided you can find sometime in the future a Q5 in such a board the mod is only soldering the wires on the new board, and add some more paste.

Best luck, kostas


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## jirik_cz (Sep 25, 2007)

yes it is star mounted, diameter of the star is 16mm.


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## taschenlampe (Sep 25, 2007)

jirik_cz said:


> yes it is star mounted, diameter of the star is 16mm. ...


 

This is not a star – it is a 16mm round base.

A star looks like this:








tl


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## jirik_cz (Sep 25, 2007)

taschenlampe said:


> This is not a star – it is a 16mm round base.



 Yes you are right. I don't know why, but I'm used to call every "base" as a star


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## kosPap (Sep 26, 2007)

Well, yesterday I changed the rubber “bootie” in one of mine.

Process is simple. You remove & dissasemble the switch assembly and put away the long original black bootie with the aluminum spacer.(see photo) 






Then you need to trim the GITD part. There is a cylindrical tab/post in the underside of it. Its function is to reach and actuate the actual switch. If you place it on the switch you will see how much you need to cut off. (The switch is reverse clicky so you do not need tension from too tight a fit on the it)

If you cut that much the light will not tail-stand cos the GITD has some curvature. I removed about 1mm more of the tab so it can fold-in a bit. Now the 606 is better!

enjoy, kostas


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## mr.pi (Oct 8, 2007)

hello,

is it possible to remove the regulator or/and circuit board from this flashlight, so that i have only the emitter, the heatsink and the flashlight body?

then i can use it with a dynamo and a rectifier.

the pi


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## ernsanada (Jan 9, 2008)

I measured where all the o-rings sit. These are the measurements I got. 

I measured with a Digital Dial Caliper.

There are links to Deal Extreme o-rings.






On the forward battery tube where the forward o-ring sits is 17.10mm. 

On the rear of the battery tube where the o-ring sits is 17.49mm.

I would use a 16mm o-ring. 16mm

On the led module the o-ring is 22.30mm. 

I would use a 21mm o-ring. 21mm

The lens o-ring is 22.37mm.

I would use a 22mm o-ring. Orange 22mm


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## ernsanada (Jan 9, 2008)

Ultrafire WF-606A1 2AA - 2260 lux @ 1 meter

Ultrafire WF-606A1 2AA @ 32'


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## chanamasala (Jan 9, 2008)

This is one of my favorite lights. I hope that Ultrafire makes a 1 mode Q5 700mah version of this light.


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## ernsanada (Jan 11, 2008)

I just received my replacement Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A.

I had to return my light because the switch got sticky and the spring broke off.

The newer version has a different switch. It's stiffer and doesn't feel soft like the original. Ny original always felt like it wouldn't last, like at any momnet the switch was going to stick or get stuck. On the newer version the switch sticks out more. It doesn't bother me because I don't need candle mode on this light.


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## ernsanada (Jan 11, 2008)

Old style switch.











New style switch.


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## ernsanada (Mar 17, 2008)

This is a picture of the first generation problematic switch. One of the switches on one of my lights got stuck. The switches always felt like they would get stuck.






This is a picture of the second generation improved switch. (I replaced the black rear rubber cover with a GITD cover.)


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## bspofford (Mar 17, 2008)

The new switch looks a lot like those used in LumaPower and SolarForce lights.


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## bspofford (Mar 18, 2008)

Really wish this were a 2XAA / 1XCR123 format like the RC-N3. What were they thinking??? :thinking:


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## rizky_p (Mar 18, 2008)

606A with either 1xAA or 2xAA is perfect. Why CR2 only god knows...


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## bspofford (Mar 18, 2008)

If it's brighter on 4.2V and smaller, then I would prefer 1XCR123A to 1XCR2.


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## alfreddajero (Mar 20, 2008)

Yes i know what you mean.....if they came out with a two double A and one AA conversion i would get that as well.......this is a nice performing light which too me is a good thing......as for the cr2's it is dinky but i have some on hand, when im getting close to running out i just put an order in online, you can get 5 CR2's on DX for 7bones which is not bad at all.


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## Olvo (Apr 6, 2008)

Hy, 
do anybody see Switch tailcap for this flashlight like this http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11455
I would like to mount WF-606A on a bike handlebar and it would be usefull to switch it on\off by this pressure switch.
Thanks.


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## EM745 (Apr 19, 2008)

Heads up!

Those looking for the ideal holster for the WF-606A should look no further than the *Ripoffs CO-106*.

What a beaut! It's a perfect match for the WF-606A/A1. It's as if Ripoffs had this light in mind when they designed it. _Perfect_ fit, padded, double stitching, and a stainless belt clip to boot. What more could you want? :thumbsup:

You can get 'em for $15 USD + S/H from an eBay seller named *Knifedepot* (just enter *106* in the store's search box). I've had no problems dealing with this guy and shipping is usually quite fast.

One thing though, Ripoffs holsters as a whole tend to be quite tight out of the package. Before using this one, it's better to stretch it out by slipping it over a smooth, rounded wood shaft that's _at most_ 1" in diameter (a 1" tool or broom handle will do). Leave it there for about half an hour, then it'll be good to go.


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## alfreddajero (Apr 19, 2008)

Cool thanks for posting that.....hey would you mind posting a pic with the 606a in the holster......


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## EM745 (Apr 19, 2008)

alfreddajero said:


> Cool thanks for posting that.....hey would you mind posting a pic with the 606a in the holster......



Please excuse the harsh lighting and somewhat blurry quality... I took these in a bit of a hurry.











Fully inserted, the base of the head lines up perfectly with the holster's rim. The fit couldn't be more perfect. :twothumbs










Even the velcro strips line up... umm... "perfectly!" :devil:





Gotta love that belt clip. :thumbsup:






:wave:


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## ernsanada (Apr 19, 2008)

I just got 4 more Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A's for my co-workers.

All lights have good tints. All in good working order.

All the lights, fit and finish grade A.


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## alfreddajero (Apr 19, 2008)

Now that is a nice light holster.........thanks for taking pics and posting them.


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## EM745 (Apr 21, 2008)

alfreddajero said:


> Now that is a nice light holster.........thanks for taking pics and posting them.



No prob. 

And in case you're wondering, yes, that is indeed my little pet "Frankenstein" 606A in those pics. :devil:

She looks quite harmless there, doesn't she?


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## alfreddajero (Apr 21, 2008)

okay so i take it that your the one that modded yours out in the review section of DX.


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## EM745 (Apr 21, 2008)

alfreddajero said:


> okay so i take it that your the one that modded yours out in the review section of DX.



Yep, guilty as charged. :naughty:


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## alfreddajero (Apr 21, 2008)

cool........you should post beam shot man......i thought it was you man, nice to see you on the boards.


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## EM745 (May 2, 2008)

alfreddajero said:


> cool........you should post beam shot man



You know? I'm one of those people who thinks beamshots mean little in terms of "proving" how bright a light is. I suppose they're better than nothing, but truth be told, nothing beats a "live" demo.

Assuming you get the exposure setting on the camera JUST right (easier said than done, especially with my camera, which has poor low-light performance to begin with), what's to prevent someone from artificially boosting the gamma value in that pic in order to make the light seem brighter than it is? And even if the intent isn't to "cheat," a gamma correction is often needed to correct exposure errors. And too often, those corrections end up being off.

Of course, I could post a comparative beamshot (alongside a light of known brightness--a P2D for example), but even then, slight differences in LED bins/tint means that one person's P2D might not be as bright as another's. Also, 180 lumens vs. 200+ won't be that obvious in a photo. And in the case of a P2D vs. the 606A, there's the significantly different hotspot size to consider.

I COULD post a beamshot from my backyard at night, but the result likely wouldn't be much different (or any more relevant) than other backyard shots of "bright" flashlights.

JMHO, of course. YMMV.

All I can say is that my 606A has a Q5 driven by DX's sku.7882 board, and that I measured 3.48 volts at the emitter on *hi*. According to *this* chart, that translates to about 220 emitter lumens, assuming my particular Q5 is within spec., of course.


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## alfreddajero (May 2, 2008)

cool man......


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## ernsanada (Jul 7, 2008)

I picked up the newest version of the WF-606A from Deal Extreme for $21.50 shipped.

This version used a Cree XRE Q2. They should have used a Cree XRE Q5. The beam is white and smooth. The older version is brighter and used a Cree XR-E P4.

The Knurling looks more "agressive". The finish is excellent, I give the grade A.

The fit is also excellent. Threads are smooth. I give the grade A.

The rear clickie is a single stage reverse clickie with the improved rear clickie. The older version had problems with the switches sticking.



WF-606A V2






WF-606A V1






Left, WF-606A V2. Right, WF-606A V1






Left, WF-606A V2. Right, WF-606A V1






Left, WF-606A V2. Right, WF-606A V1. The newer version on the left, the switch cover sticks out farther.






WF-606A V2 uses a Cree XRE Q2.











WF-606A V1 uses a Cree XRE P4.











I also took lux readings of the lights above. These are the lux readings I got. I am using a Meterman LM631 Light Meter measured at 1 meter. I waited 2 minutes before taking the readings. I am using Energizer 2500mAh Nimh AA Rechargeable Batteries which were fully charged. 







WF-606A V2 - 1840 lux @ 1 meter

WF-606A V1 - 2020 lux @ 1 meter


--------------------------------


WF-606A V2 @ 90"






WF-606A V1 @ 90"






Left, WF-606A V2. Right, WF-606A V1 @ 90"






Left, WF-606A V2. Right, WF-606A V1 @ 90" Stewpped down exposure


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## TONY M (Jul 8, 2008)

Interesting that the V2 is not as bright as the original WF-606A. I hope that the runtime makes up for it.

Thanks for details and beamshots ernsanada!


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## alfreddajero (Jul 8, 2008)

Yes thank you....i was planning on getting it as well since the emitter would have been a step up to the P4 that i already have now....but compared to the new version i might as well stick to the ones that i have now.....thanks for the review once again, good job.


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## phantom23 (Jul 8, 2008)

It is as bright or even brighter than V1. It also has different reflector and smoother beam (=less throw).


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## AvPD (Jul 11, 2008)

I put a DX 16mm Q5 in mine, the output is noticeably better. Unfortunately they only sell the WC tint which is bluer than I prefer.


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## qwertyydude (Aug 17, 2008)

I just got this one which is the Q2 version and have the Q5 version on order, maybe hoping to swap out the emitter and switch. But I must have hit the DX jackpot. This light is bright, whereas most people are measuring 800 or so mA, mine on a fully charged set of energizer 2500's are going at a strong 1200 mA. It has great regulation because a set of half discharged nimh's will pull 2000 mA. Though I'm only getting about 1.5 hours runtime on a set of batteries, I know these are a true 2500 mAh because I have a battery charger/discharger that tells me the capacity of the cells.

Did I mention how bright this is? It put's my inova bolt to shame, ironically my multimeter is from walmart and is of the innova brand, two n's. Does get kinda hot though after 15 minutes of continuous burn time.


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## AvPD (Aug 17, 2008)

With a Q5 I'm impressed at how close it gets to 18650 torches in performance.
I don't use it much nowdays as I joined the Lithium-ion fold.


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## jirik_cz (Aug 17, 2008)

qwertyydude said:


> Though I'm only getting about 1.5 hours runtime on a set of batteries...



I measured the same runtime with new Q2 WF-606A, it looks like they use different driver than they used a year ago.


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## qwertyydude (Aug 18, 2008)

Does anyone know if any dx drop in module's fit this light? Ironically enough I wanted to do heat tests and removed the emitter to put heat sink epoxy, screwed down too tight and shorted the bulb, so the whole regulator is burned out.


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## ernsanada (Aug 23, 2008)

I just purchased the WF606A Q5 from Deal Extreme.

The WF-606A uses a Cree XRE Q5.

Fit is excellent. I give the grade A.

Finish is excellent. I give the grade A.

The Cree Q5 module screws out very easy. It's different from the earlier WF-606A's.













This version uses a Cree XRE Q5.











The modules comes out very easy.























I also took lux readings of the WF-606A Q5. These are the lux readings I got. I am using a Meterman LM631 Light Meter measured at 1 meter. I waited 2 minutes before taking the readings. I am using Energizer 2500mAh Nimh AA Rechargeable Batteries which were fully charged. 







WF-606A Q5 - 3010 lux @ 1 meter

WF-606A V1 - 2020 lux @ 1 meter


WF-606A Q5 @ 96"






WF-606A P4 @ 96"






Left, WF-606A Q5. Right, WF-606A P4 @ 96"






Left, WF-606A Q5. Right, WF-606A P4 @ 96" Stepped down exposure






WF-606A Q5 @ 32'






WF-606A P4 @ 32'


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## jirik_cz (Aug 23, 2008)

I've measured runtime of the Q2 version. It is significantly shorter than P4 version I had a year ago.


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## TONY M (Aug 23, 2008)

That doesn't look so good.


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## ernsanada (Sep 10, 2008)

jirik_cz said:


> I've measured runtime of the Q2 version. It is significantly shorter than P4 version I had a year ago.



It would be nice to see a run time of the WF-606A Q5.


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## jirik_cz (Sep 11, 2008)

Sorry I don't have Q5 version.


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## mhubble (Sep 14, 2008)

I just got the Q5 version from DX last week. Theyve changed alot since I bought the Q2 version 6 months ago. Before the change the tailcap and forward clicky from a ROMISEN RC-G2 would fit perfectly on the 606a. Now with the new q5 version theyve changed the threads on the light so it no longer fits. Doesnt seem to be as well made as the older version. Anodizing is more of a matte finish now. The pills will interchange though. So I took the q5 out of the newer version and put it in my older version with the forward clicky. 

Did a quick runtime test with the Q2 and Q5 at the same time. Both ran for an hour with no drop in brightness. At 1.5 hours both had dropped to about 60% brightness. I dont remember the exact voltage but the Q2 lights batteries were about gone where the Q5 lights batteries still had plenty of voltage left.
As far as brightness goes for the first hour the Q5 was only a little brighter than the Q2. Both lights get really warm after 20 min. Not HOT, but close. I used DURACELL ULTRA BATTERIES.


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## EngrPaul (Sep 15, 2008)

I bought a natural one of these back when it first came out. It's been fantastic, we use it all around the house for a couple years now. 

My only complaints is the button that is oversensitive, and there is questionable waterproofing because the lens is undersized.

I felt like this was one of the best flashlights I bought directly from China.


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## alfreddajero (Sep 15, 2008)

My button was also sensitive to the touch and all i did was cut a sliver off the nipple of the rubber boot.


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## qwertyydude (Sep 16, 2008)

Ha! I also cut a sliver off the little nipple on the boot. I also sprayed some wd-40 in the plastic switch assembly just to make sure it doesn't corrode and to protect against water intrusion.


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## etc (Sep 16, 2008)

Here is the WF-606B version, FWIW. With the CR2 cell. Ignore Malkoff M60 next to it.


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## EngrPaul (Sep 16, 2008)

I got my switch loosened up to an acceptable level a long time ago. I honestly forgot what it took, maybe oiling the nub, removing the tit or stretching the boot. :shrug:

Hey nice light etc. Do you like it? :naughty:

P.S. that threaded tail allows you to put it on a standard tripod.


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## etc (Sep 18, 2008)

It's a neat backup piece, with CR2.


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## Stupidnewbie (Sep 18, 2008)

I'm a Correctional Officer at a juvenile work camp in the mountains. I carry the Q5 version as a less-bright backup to my CL1H. It works great for cell searches or indoor use without being overbearing. The switch is sensitive, but I like that is quick and precise. It's a great replacement for the mini-mag.


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## csshih (Oct 10, 2008)

anyone disassemble the switch on the q5 version?
I cant seem to get it open...


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## ernsanada (Oct 10, 2008)

This is how to take out the rear switch. BTW this is the Q5 version.



I like to use either a pick or pointed neddle nose pliers.






There are 2 holes located in the circular nut.






If it's very hard to turn the circular nut I like to use the pointed neddle nose pliers.






If it's easy to remove like my rear switch was I'd rather use a pick. It's faster for me to use the pick.






Turn counter-clockwise.






The switch comes out very easy.






Reverse the order to install.


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## csshih (Oct 13, 2008)

Thanks allot man!
do you know if there are any replacements or mods you can do to the light?


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## Superorb (Feb 4, 2009)

Any people get one of the recent Q5 units from DX lately?


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## Tweel (Oct 20, 2011)

*Ultrafire Cree LED WF-606A still working?*

I'm curious, mine died last year. The threads on the tubeand/or end cap are worn out. It can't hold the contacts snug anymore. Cheap, soft alloy, I guess. It saw hard use as my bike helmet lamp, had to unscrew it 1 or 2 times/week to recharge the battwries.

~Paul


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