# Portable solar charging setup I just built...



## ChrisGarrett (Aug 2, 2012)

I just reposted this from AR15.com, to save on time.

I got the portable solar charging panel done and tested it out today, 8/1/12 for 20 minutes, before a big rain cloud came in and forced me to pack up.

Pictures are worth a thousand words, so flame away!

Controller and 12vdc female socket mounted on plastic corrugated 'sign stock':





[/URL]ControllerFront by Christopher Garrett, on Flickr[/IMG]

Controller from the side, 'triangle folds' keep panel in the vertical plane, but still allow for 'flat' packing':




[/URL]ControllerSide by Christopher Garrett, on Flickr[/IMG]

Controller laying 'flattish':




[/URL]ControllerFlat by Christopher Garrett, on Flickr[/IMG]

Controller running off of 12v/12Ah battery, powering a Maha C-9000 that's charging 4xAAs at ~1 amp:




[/URL][email protected] by Christopher Garrett, on Flickr[/IMG]

Hinged panels in the vertical orientation, pink ropes are carry handles:




[/URL]PanelsVertical by Christopher Garrett, on Flickr[/IMG]

Panels from the side, they can be flipped for a more acute angle, when sun is directly overhead:




[/URL]PanelsSide by Christopher Garrett, on Flickr[/IMG]

Shallow tilt, whole shebang charging the battery and powering an Xtar WP2 II Li-Ion charger, note case:




[/URL]SystemRear by Christopher Garrett, on Flickr[/IMG]

Open voltage before the big rain cloud blew in:




[/URL]PanelOpenVoltage by Christopher Garrett, on Flickr[/IMG]

Indoor shot with cereal box for scale:




[/URL]PanelsHinged by Christopher Garrett, on Flickr[/IMG]

Facts and details:

Panels: Two Soplay 30w/1.74a (22"x16.5"x1") @ 5.5#. $178 shipped for both, with 2x12" Y connectors.

Battery: Power-Sonic 12v/12Ah AGM/SLA. $37 shipped.

Gun Case: Plano 4 pistol case cut to fit by me. $25 shipped.

Controller: Morningstar SS-10L 12v. This will take up to a 25v input, 10amp load. $70 shipped.

Mc4 Connectors: 3 pair of M/F for the Controller terminations. I ruined 3 halves, so get a few! $10 shipped.

Assorted adapters: Maha, LaCrosse 12v adapters, USB 2.1a adapter, 12v female socket. $35ish delivered.

Hardware: Hinges, bolts, nuts, washers, rope, Gorilla glue (wire was free!) aluminum bar stock: $20-$30.

Most of the stuff, I got new off of Ebay. The fitted case will hold two 12v/12Ah batteries, even though I only have one for now. The case will also hold the Maha C-9000, LaCrosse BC-700, Xtar WP2 II, all three 12v adapters and the little iPhone/iPad 2.1 amp USB adapter with 6' USB cord. The controller and its backing sits nicely on top of the fitted layer of foam.

Everything fits fine and closes. With 2 batteries, weight should be about ~22-23 pounds, maybe a tad less.

Chris


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## HotWire (Aug 2, 2012)

Great job! I have a similar (but smaller) set-up to charge a 12v deep cycle marine battery. 12v charger plugs right in! Power outage? No problem!


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## eh4 (Aug 3, 2012)

Very cool, looking to do the same soon but with LiFePO4 battery chemistry. Disadvantage is initial cost.
Advantages are lower long term cost, Long life, intrinsic safety, cutting weight by 75%, and being able to jump start a car with the same battery that serves as your deep cycle.


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## Ualnosaj (Aug 4, 2012)

Wow! "Portable" is a relative term, but this is a good effort


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## ChrisGarrett (Aug 4, 2012)

Ualnosaj said:


> Wow! "Portable" is a relative term, but this is a good effort



It's not 'backpackable' but it is portable. Car trunk, back seat, walking down three flights of stairs to get to the lake/grass area, to charge things up.

I wouldn't want to walk a mile carrying the thing, but it's not too heavy.

PowerFilm, Sunlinq, Goal Zero and Brunton all make 26-27w foldable panels which put out as much current as one of those panels, but they're expensive and only have 3 year warranties, so nothing compared to the 10yr/90% and 25yr/80% warranties that the rigids have.

Once you get up into that 30w class, you're looking at a minimum of $420 for the PF foldable. I bought everything for a lot less than that.

Chris


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## Kilted (Aug 4, 2012)

WOW!! Really nice transportable solar power system. The only suggestion I have is when the SLA dies look into replacing it with a Lithium pba drop-in in replacement. They should be affordable by then.

=D~~ Kilted


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## Ualnosaj (Aug 4, 2012)

ChrisGarrett said:


> It's not 'backpackable' but it is portable. Car trunk, back seat, walking down three flights of stairs to get to the lake/grass area, to charge things up.
> 
> I wouldn't want to walk a mile carrying the thing, but it's not too heavy.
> 
> ...



Chris, what's the goal for this build? I know sometimes we build things "just because", but what's your vision?



________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this message.


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## Illum (Aug 4, 2012)

Nicely done!

Where did you get MC4 connectors for $10?!

I'm slowly following your path also, just haven't found a significant reason to put it all together. I don't use that much 12V devices, and those I do are for the last resort during a hurricane
Currently I have in my possession
2x EPCOM 50W Crystalline, $150 shipped/each
1x MorningStar SS-10-12V, $53 Shipped/each
1x Tysonic 35AH, $76 Shipped/each

For starters, I'd recommend something like this, which I built. Works well even in moderate sunshine. 
2x 10W panels, mine were salvaged... a decent substitute would be LiteFuze, $60 shipped
1x 3A charge controller $17+Shipping
1x 7.5AH SLA $24+Shipping
Optional 1x Murata DC/DC Converter 7-26Vin 5Vout $5+shipping
I used a DC/DC converter to step down 12V because my battery chargers only accepted 5V and that the voltage is regulated. I threw a 2200uF Low ESR caps on both the input and output for good measure. 
USB ports were from these, you can probably bum a set from the local PC repair shop 

Mine looks something like this, everything is built in a watertight ammo can, can only be hooked up with the lid opened. Everything goes through the battery fuse , including the wall charger connector [hidden in the converter well lower right]. the PV passes through its own fuse and everything has a disconnect switch: battery, controller, converter. A voltmeter from Wowhobbies is built in and turns on when the battery switches on. Load from that is negligible. The LEDs on the controller is cut out and panel mounted. 





Solar Panels are situated on a [don't laugh] "deluxe irrigation tripod" typically sold with a sprinkler head mounted at Home Depot. A couple plumbing fittings later its now a two piece setup. 






While its probably not going to last too long charging anything at 12V, it does a good job charging eneloops on partial cloudy to sunny days. Right now I have on average 33WH of usable capacity with the battery fully charged. Assuming no sunlight input is available, usable capacity on 5v after converter losses is about 5300mAH. Somewhat inadequate, but the entire concept relies mainly on sunlight. the battery is merely acting as a voltage buffer. 
Speaking of vision, I really want to have 12V capability because theres alot more things you can run. Just about anything you can plug into your car you should be able to run on the system. 12V fans, 12V Florescent lights, charge your GPS, power your mattress pump, Maybe run a small soda cooler or a small inverter during peak sun hours, who knows. Thats my vision, I'm sure Chris has something much better. 

ChrisGarrett, I noticed your MorningStar has a LVD built in, unfortunately it cuts off at 10.5 or some value near that. For sealed lead acids, I don't recommend draining them below 12V unless you've got a good desulfator. In my experience they seem to die very quickly and not cater many cycles. My batteries are typically floating at 13.8-14V here at the house with either BatteryMinder plus or Attwood Battery maintainers and only recieve solar juice when I am on the road or on location to organize/participate in some sort of an activity. 

Personally, I think you striked a perfect balance between capacity and weight on the 12AH battery. In my opinion the 7AH batteries are too small and the 35AH batteries are just too heavy. If I was intent on putting a load on the battery at night, I would discharge the battery no greater than 40% rated C/20 capacity, but thats just me. But I would still recommend testing the maximum current load on your battery charger, and estimate a general usage time just for good measure.​


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## ChrisGarrett (Aug 5, 2012)

Ualnosaj said:


> Chris, what's the goal for this build? I know sometimes we build things "just because", but what's your vision?
> 
> Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this message.



I'm in Miami and while my power only went out for 18 and 15 hours during hurricanes Andrew & Wilma, my girl friend, uncle/aunt and former boss lost their power for 7-21 days here in SoFla, so my goal is to be able to charge up any batteries I have, cell phone, radios and perhaps a battery operated fan, or two.

Another goal was to keep it under $400 bucks, as I was approaching 'decent' generator territory if I went higher. I'm in a condo and even during 'power outages', running a loud genset is going to be a problem with the neighbors and the 'whisper model' Honda 2000, Yammie and even the Briggs and Straton are $500-$1000, so I didn't want to go there.

Finally, the objective was to keep it light and portable/transportable and give me enough juice where I won't have to babysit the thing for six hours to charge up what I need charged.

I'm not really a camper, but anything past a day, or three, without power, is where this thing should come in handy. It's a 10 year insurance policy, I figure.

Chris


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## ChrisGarrett (Aug 5, 2012)

Kilted said:


> WOW!! Really nice transportable solar power system. The only suggestion I have is when the SLA dies look into replacing it with a Lithium pba drop-in in replacement. They should be affordable by then.
> 
> =D~~ Kilted



I've looked at the A123 Systems 7Ah SLA drop in replacement, but IIRC, they're up over $125 and frankly, that's about 4 PowerSonice 12Ah batteries.

Maybe one day it'll be worth it to me. At under 2# it is pretty light, isn't it?

Chris


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## ChrisGarrett (Aug 5, 2012)

Illum:

The Mc4s are TUV IP68, so pretty much dust and waterproof. Midwestsolar2012 sells them on Ebay in 3s, 5s, 10s--whatever quantity you want.

The low voltage disconnect on the Morningstar 10L is 11.5v, so a bit better than what you thought, but I don't expect to get down that low, however, I did pay an extra $8 for the feature.

I was even looking at the 18Ah batteries, but ehhh...I went with 12Ah, for better, or for worse. One can always go larger, with panels, voltage, batteries and well, keeping weight manageable was a major thought.

I want to look for a couple of fans and maybe a 12v C/D size charger, if there's one out there. That way I can run the fans and stir the air during the muggy nights without power.

Chris


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## Kilted (Aug 5, 2012)

ChrisGarrett said:


> I've looked at the A123 Systems 7Ah SLA drop in replacement, but IIRC, they're up over $125 and frankly, that's about 4 PowerSonice 12Ah batteries.
> 
> Maybe one day it'll be worth it to me. At under 2# it is pretty light, isn't it?
> 
> Chris



Chris, yes I'd like tom shed some weight. There are reasons why we use lithium's in our flashlights and not lead! One thing I discovered do a web search on "lithium motorcycle battery". There appear to be some quality vendors out there. When my 12v 12a SLA dies I will probably replace it with lithium. I have 3 APC-UPS, a house battery bank and two transportable power systems so I need to start learning about these lithium SLA drop-in replacements.

=D~~ Kilted


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## ChrisGarrett (Aug 5, 2012)

Kilted said:


> Chris, yes I'd like tom shed some weight. There are reasons why we use lithium's in our flashlights and not lead! One thing I discovered do a web search on "lithium motorcycle battery". There appear to be some quality vendors out there. When my 12v 12a SLA dies I will probably replace it with lithium. I have 3 APC-UPS, a house battery bank and two transportable power systems so I need to start learning about these lithium SLA drop-in replacements.
> 
> =D~~ Kilted



It looks like Shorai is the big dog in LiPo motorcycle batteries. The one I'm looking at is their LFX12A1-BS12 , PBeq 12Ah at $129 and 1.54#. Problem is is that they work best with their proprietary charger and 5 pin battery port, although you can use trickle chargers without an automatic desulfation stage, whatever that ultimately means. The charger is ~$84 and only works on AC, so that kind of defeats 'my' purpose for building the solar charger in the first place, although that's why God invented cheap inverters, lol.

I'm no Pb hater, so I'll live with this until it dies. If you wanted to blow $700, you fit five of those suckers in my case for about the same weight as one 12Ah SLA!

Chris


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## Kilted (Aug 5, 2012)

ChrisGarrett said:


> It looks like Shorai is the big dog in LiPo motorcycle batteries. The one I'm looking at is their LFX12A1-BS12 , PBeq 12Ah at $129 and 1.54#. Problem is is that they work best with their proprietary charger and 5 pin battery port, although you can use trickle chargers without an automatic desulfation stage, whatever that ultimately means. The charger is ~$84 and only works on AC, so that kind of defeats 'my' purpose for building the solar charger in the first place, although that's why God invented cheap inverters, lol.
> 
> I'm no Pb hater, so I'll live with this until it dies. If you wanted to blow $700, you fit five of those suckers in my case for about the same weight as one 12Ah SLA!
> 
> Chris



Yea I seen those also and they maybe good batteries but kinda suck for our transportable solar chargers. I came across LiFePo4 bat that had a BMS built into the battery case this is the same as the A123 system, like these; http://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/products/deep-cycle/

For a small solar power charging station I was thinking of some thing like these; http://www.ballisticparts.com/products/batteries/batteries.php note the small 4-cell version. Their custom charger looks like a a hobby charger and can be run from 12v dc. Check Amazon for pricing.

I looked at Shorai, Ballistic are a better system. Ballistic are USA made in Wisconsin.
Ballistic Balance Charger instructions 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3cuBUF9-eY&feature=youtu.be

OK one more thing these are starter batteries high pulse current for turning a motor over, they are not deep cycle power batteries. 

For my Larger battery banks one of the things I'm not finding is the service life of the batteries. My Concorde batteries are at 10-years and if the Lithiums cannot do 20 years then they are not worth it. For stationary applications weight is not a factor, service life and cost are important.

=D~~Kilted.


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## ChrisGarrett (Aug 6, 2012)

Kilted said:


> Yea I seen those also and they maybe good batteries but kinda suck for our transportable solar chargers. I came across LiFePo4 bat that had a BMS built into the battery case this is the same as the A123 system, like these; http://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/products/deep-cycle/
> 
> For a small solar power charging station I was thinking of some thing like these; http://www.ballisticparts.com/products/batteries/batteries.php note the small 4-cell version. Their custom charger looks like a a hobby charger and can be run from 12v dc. Check Amazon for pricing.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the links!

First off, we don't really need CCA intensive starter batteries, like the Shorai or Ballistics, do we? As you mention, we want 'deep cycle' cells, correct?

I looked at the Concorde Sun Xtender series and while they're still SLA/AGM and heavy, that brand looks to be at the apex for SLA technology. They rate their batteries over a period of time, the main stat being 24 hrs and to a cell voltage of 1.75v, which is 10.6v for the entire battery, but they state it a different way and give no load. 

For example, their smallest 25#, $165 battery yields 34 Ah over a 24 hr period? Would this be a 1 amp load...2 or 4?

Anyhow, I found their PVX-340T on Ebay for $165 shipped.

That's similar in price to the A123 company's LiFePo4 Pbeq 7Ah cell and even the 8 cylinder Ballistic jobbie. But we need another charger and even the 12v versions for PV panels, run $80-$200, so I don't know. That puts me in total cost, almost at a Honda 2000 genset!

The LithiumIon company starts at $399 for their 20Ah Pbeq offering. Ouch!

I'm not wanting to jump start trucks, or motor cycles, so 'starter batteries' aren't my best solution, are they?

Thanks, Chris


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## Shadowww (Aug 6, 2012)

ChrisGarrett said:


> For example, their smallest 25#, $165 battery yields 34 Ah over a 24 hr period? Would this be a 1 amp load...2 or 4?


Erm.. 34Ah/24h = 1.42A.


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## ChrisGarrett (Aug 6, 2012)

Shadowww said:


> Erm.. 34Ah/24h = 1.42A.



Thanks.

I was just out smoking a cigar on the patio and started to ponder that question and came up with roughly <1.5a.

My degree is in English Literature and Communications and phizics/maf aren't my forte'.

I guess that battery can run a 100w incadescent bulb at ~.833 amps for 40+ hours!

Chris


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## Kilted (Aug 6, 2012)

Some discoveries digging into FAQ's and various sales sites. The Ballistic batteries are using 2300 milliamp LiFePo4 cells. The cells are wired 4 in series strings with; 4cells 1 string, 8cells 2 stings in parallel, 12cells 3 strings parallel, 16 cells 4 strings parallel. These LiFe batteries can be 80% depleted vs. for Pb normal usage is 50%. Another FAQ take 1/3 of the Pbeq value will give the internal cell 1C rating. For example LFX12A1-BS12 , PBeq 12Ah / 3 = 4 amp. Use this value to calculate your deep discharge energy. 

To work it in reverse the Powersonic 12v 12a pictured above has total watthours = 12x12 = 144 x 50% = 72 whrs of usable energy, 72 / 12 = 6amps x 3 (LiFe conversion factor) = 18 Pbeq. Therefore in Shorai terminology a LFX18A1-BS12 ($171) at .997 lbs will deliver the same energy as the Powersonic PS-12120 at 7.92 lbs.

If you are backpacking saving 7lbs of lead is probably worth it.

=D~~Kilted


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## Shadowww (Aug 7, 2012)

Kilted said:


> Some discoveries digging into FAQ's and various sales sites. The Ballistic batteries are using 2300 milliamp LiFePo4 cells. The cells are wired 4 in series strings with; 4cells 1 string, 8cells 2 stings in parallel, 12cells 3 strings parallel, 16 cells 4 strings parallel.


Erm, actually 8 cell is single string of 4 paralleled cell banks, not two strings of 4 cells in parallel. Same with 12cell and 16cell.


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## Kilted (Aug 7, 2012)

Shadowww said:


> Erm, actually 8 cell is single string of 4 paralleled cell banks, not two strings of 4 cells in parallel. Same with 12cell and 16cell.



Yerr right otherwise the BMS would not work. An FYI parts to assemble your own battery; http://www.evassemble.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2

=D~~ Kilted


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## Norm (Aug 15, 2013)

I have a 40 W panel and a charge controller on the way to me, I have a 110Ah AGM battery for use at home and will eventfully buy a 24Ah AGM for my portable set up.

Here's my question, whilst waiting to build up funds to purchase a battery can I run a charger and other devices directly for the output of the controller?

Norm


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## ChrisGarrett (Aug 15, 2013)

Norm said:


> I have a 40 W panel and a charge controller on the way to me, I have a 110Ah AGM battery for use at home and will eventfully buy a 24Ah AGM for my portable set up.
> 
> Here's my question, whilst waiting to build up funds to purchase a battery can I run a charger and other devices directly for the output of the controller?
> 
> Norm



During the few times I've fiddled with my Morningstar SS-10L controller, I thought that it would NOT power the load unless my mother battery was hooked up, but that shouldn't be the case.

We're in clouds now, here in Miami, so on the next sunny day, I'm going to break it out and reconfirm that observation. I may have been mistaken, but I had my DMM down there with me and that's what I seem to remember, which would be a bummer.

I can power the load with my battery with no solar panels hooked up, as evidenced in my photos above.

To be fair, I can't speak to other controllers, just my MS SS-10L.

I just picked up a Chrome battery, 22Ah to back up my dinky 12Ah PowerSonic. Free shipping and got it withing 3 days of placing my order. I don't know if they ship to Australia, but for those here, it might be a good option. Made in Indiana here in the US. 60 day return and 1.5 year warranty if it goes south on me.

http://www.chromebattery.com/12v-22ah-sealed-lead-acid-sla-nut-and-bolt-connector.html

Chris


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## hiuintahs (Aug 15, 2013)

Norm said:


> .....Here's my question, whilst waiting to build up funds to purchase a battery can I run a charger and other devices directly for [from?] the output of the controller?
> Norm


 
No, I wouldn't recommend this. The output of the charge controller likely will be a PWM signal and not a DC value. There will be no voltage regulation. Since a battery is like a huge capacitor, the charge controller is attempting to raise the voltage on the battery via charge insertions. The way it does that isn't necessarily by putting a regulated DC voltage that is higher than the battery but rather by PWM.

Also what might happen is that by not connecting to a battery, providing a feed back signal to the charge controller, it simply might not output anything since it see's no battery. It just depends on how the charge controller is designed.


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## Norm (Aug 15, 2013)

Thanks Chris, I'm trying to put together a portable system roughly based on yours, not sure why, I have no need, but I thought it might be a fun project.

So far I've ordered.

New 40W Watt Polycrystalline Solar Panel
CMP Solar Panel Charge Charging Controller Regulator 10A 12V 24V
4 USB Car Charger Step-Down DC 12V to 5V Power Supply Module

Thanks for the battery link, I imagine the freight would be $200+  There is plenty of stuff available here. I'll be buying an AGM battery, I currently have a 110Ah that cost me nothing, I bought a 110Ah originally for our caravan, it wasn't until after the truck had delivered it I realized one of the end cells was cracked and the company replace the battery leaving me with the cracked one, a friend suggested I get it plastic welded which I did, I then opened the cell and topped it up with acid with the help of the local battery wholesaler, I was very pleased to see the battery come up as OK on his test meter. That battery is amazing it sits outside of my radio shack and I check the charge every so often and put the ctek on it never charges for more than about 15 minutes, even after three months standing it never drops below 13V.

Norm


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## hopkins (Aug 15, 2013)

Looking good! If you could salvage some old carry on bag with wheels and an extendable handle to mount
all the parts on and in might make transport a little easier unless vibration is a no-no for those
types of panels.

Thanks for showing the build!


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## ChrisGarrett (Aug 15, 2013)

"Thanks Chris, I'm trying to put together a portable system roughly based on yours, not sure why, I have no need, but I thought it might be a fun project."

Mine was a fun project, but I hope I never have to use it in an emergency setting, but it's there if I need it, since T.S. Erin is currently off of the coast of West Africa, spinning my way!

Your panel looks great and it's more than reasonable in price. I went Monos, mostly because they were one of the first ones I came across on Ebay. Since I did dual 30s, for weight and size considerations, I needed some Y connectors, so I spent a little more than I had to, because my seller would put one panel up for auction a week and they usually went for cheaper than what I paid--$178 shipped with 2 Y connectors, from California to Miami.

Anyhow, as we both figure, it's a fun project and you can get quite flexible with it.

I just received a small $41 12v TrippLite PV-375 375w inverter, so if I need to recharge a laptop, I've got that going for me, or powering a small table lamp!

Hiuintahs might be correct about the 'battery disconnect' safety with the solar panels engaged. The more that I think about it, the more I think that the voltage to the load was in fact, cut, when I removed the battery, but I'll reconfirm that down the road and consult the Morningstar .pdf sheet.

Have fun!

Chris


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## Norm (Aug 15, 2013)

I looked at Mono panels Chris but for the extra 3% in efficiency the extra dollars didn't add up for me.

My panel just arrived, less than 24 hours after placing the order, just realized I have a 12V 7Ah battery I can play with until I buy a larger battery.

Norm


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## A.O. (Aug 22, 2013)

Granted, mine is not portable but it makes a great battery charger.

Got the basic system from HF on sale for $139, added a small gel cell deep cycle battery $89, an el-cheapo inverter (enough to run a small TV in event of a power outage to gather news), an Accumanager20 charger for your basic A,AA,C,D,and 9v batteries... works off the 12dc so its efficient. and now awaiting my Nitecore i4 for my new 18650's to arrive.

Seems to do the job nicely for less than $300.Will also charge my phone and laptop to boot.


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## ChrisGarrett (Aug 22, 2013)

Looks good A.O..

One doesn't have to spend a lot on a 12v system and by going 12v, one can really power a lot of other devices down the road. If you're stuck with a USB solar charger at 5v, you can still charge up stuff, but it's just not as flexible.

Chris


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## A.O. (Aug 22, 2013)

Yeah, this set up comes with the USB port, but it doesn't have enough power to charge my Iphone.. smaller phones and stuff yes. It does have 2 12v cig lighter ports in it though, so I have a USB adapter in one and it works just fine that way. Forgot to mention, although one is in the picture , it comes with 2 12v emergency lights and ports for both.
Good basic emergency set up on the cheap, I mostly use it for battery charging though. No emergencies since I set it up!


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## IonicBond (Aug 24, 2013)

Norm said:


> I have a 40 W panel and a charge controller on the way to me, I have a 110Ah AGM battery for use at home and will eventfully buy a 24Ah AGM for my portable set up. Here's my question, whilst waiting to build up funds to purchase a battery can I run a charger and other devices directly for the output of the controller?



Hi Norm! Bear with me here as I throw things out quickly to save time....

A solar charge controller will not work unless a battery is attached to it. Some get returned when users try to measure operation without it. Also, attach the battery to the charge controller first to allow the controller to get a reference, and *then* attach the panel. Cheap on/off ping/pong mosfet switching types from the 70's don't count. We're talking modern solar controllers.

For batteries we are assuming that they are NOT SLI starters, but at the very least hybrid, dual-purpose faux-deep-cycle marine types. Dedicated RE is the best choice.

Watch out for the classic "deficit charge" scenario where the panel is not realistically large enough to support the battery. This involves meeting a minimum current from your panels...

Flooded charge rates are C/12 to C/8, where C=20 hour rate in ah. If you go below C/12, the battery suffers acid stratification. Larger than C/8 usually exceeds the manufacturer's maximum inrush rating. See manufacturer's specs for max rate.

AGM - high quality lead-calcium types like Deka/East-Penn can accept a maximum inrush of 0.3C. East Penn recommends charging at close to this rate as long as you don't go overtemp for longest life. Small ups-style lead-calcium's like Powersonic can also handle this, but my preference for these smaller types is about 0.25C max. Minimum current? Agm's can accept lower current than flooded but the problem is that you can walk-down the capacity if they are not charged up to at least 75% SOC within about 72 hours max, otherwise hard sulfation takes place. So you may not be able to do that from a deep discharge with your 40w panel setup. Even Schumacher warns against using "maintainer" currents typical of 1-2A chargers with their very own chargers on large batteries like your 110ah after a deep discharge. You'll walk down the capacity. While getting up to 75% SOC slows down sulfation, it does not mean it stops. By far the best thing to do is finish the charge.

For lead-calcium agm's, shoot for at least 0.1C, 0.2C even better, and close to 0.3C recommended by East Penn. I trust them. As always, check the manufacturer's docs. Again, we're dealing with recharging them faster than they sulfate, so extremely low currents can actually be harmful, but may not be noticeable if you are only doing a one-off low-current charge here and there.

Pure-Lead option: pure-lead batteries like Optima, Odyssey, Hawker can accept HUGE amounts of inrush current if you have the solar panel power to adequately charge them, and are an advantage in areas with very limited solar insolation. Typically 0.4C is the minimum for Odyssey's if you don't want to walk down the capacity from deep discharge (50% DOD or more). But don't tickle these - they want to see some beefy current. Don't overlook small Hawker monoblocks.

Quick SOC voltage determination chart for agm's - measured after 4 hours or more of no-charge, no-load)
12.8v + 100%
12.5v 75%
12.2v 50%
12.0v 25%

Best bang for the buck is usually running no more than 50% DOD.

Solar-insolation hours vs sunrise-to-sunset hours are very different! Find the solar-insolation charts for your area, although I imagine in Gippsland it is probably very good. Use the "winter" hours to give you some headroom when calculating how long it will take to recharge. A lot of solar projects fail when they use the sunrise-sunset hours instead of the published solar-insolation hours. Typically, these hours are between 10a - 2pm. Sunlight before and after this are too weak to be incorporated into charge calculations. Solar insolation will change these hours depending on geographical location.

Many use PVWATTS, and another useful chart for north american users can be seen here:
http://www.bigfrogmountain.com/SunHoursPerDay.html

If ground mounting, watch out for long-shadows. Mono's cut their power output very fast when even a small leaf, shadow, or other debris lands on them. Amorphous deals with shadows and debris much better, but you do not want to do that on purpose and are bigger than mono since they are less efficient. I've seen plenty of ground mounted panels with grass over the bottom edge - not good!

A general guide to recharging is (AH used / A charge current) * 1.7 = hours needed to allow for efficiency compensation during charge. Not exact, but ballpark. Your geographical solar-insolation will help determine this. Stay under 72 hours if at all possible, the less the better. This will help guide your selection of panel wattage needed obviously.

The key point here is to get at least up to the absorb voltage within 72 hours time. If not, the batteries sulfate, even while charging (albeit a bit slower than no charge at all). Sooner is better. If you take into account your discharge level, solar-insolation for time, and the power output of your panels, you can see if you are going to meet the 72 hour time limit.

There are plenty of deficit-charge setups out there that seem to work for a short time while the op is interested and the battery is new, but come to find they don't hold their load 6 months down the road when a real load other than a cellphone charger is placed upon it.


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## Norm (Aug 24, 2013)

IonicBond thanks for your informative post, I have purchased a 26 Ah AGM, this project is just a bit of fun, the battery would normally be charged at home using a Ctek MXS5.0, it will see casual use on Ham field days etc. , I expect the solar to only keep the battery topped up thought out the day, it will also be a small emergency set up although our power supply is very reliable and I don;t expect to have to use it and if it was to be used in an emergency it would only be used to charge batteries and a mobile phone with a few short contact on 2m / 70cm and the HF ham bands.

I have not attempted to use the setup without a battery, still waiting on my charge controller 

Norm


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## ChrisGarrett (Aug 24, 2013)

Norm said:


> I have not attempted to use the setup without a battery, still waiting on my charge controller
> 
> Norm



See...I thought I was right and that my Morningstar cut the load off when I disconnected my battery. It's nice to have confirmation that it wasn't my imagination, lol.

Going forward, a battery needs to be connected, even a small one, or even a weaker one, to feed the load.

Chris


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## IonicBond (Aug 24, 2013)

Norm said:


> IonicBond thanks for your informative post, I have purchased a 26 Ah AGM, this project is just a bit of fun, the battery would normally be charged at home using a Ctek MXS5.0, it will see casual use on Ham field days etc.



That will be a nice setup! Use the agm/snowflake mode, (14.7 volts) and not the motorcycle mode.

Some napkin-calc with a 26ah batt. You don't want to go below 50% DOD, so that means that you have 13ah to play with. Let's assume you use all 13ah during field day. How long / days would it take to charge it with a 40 watt panel?

Let's say best case the 40watt panel is capable of 40w / 18v ocv = 2.2a. Round down to 2a.

13ah withdrawn / 2a charge = 6.5 hours initially. Since you need to replenish 110-120% of capacity owing to the inefficiency of charging, add the compensation:

6.5h * 1.7 = 11.05 hours. Now, if your solar insolation is good at 4 hours per day (NOT sunrise to sunset but actual solar-insolation gathered from the data), that would mean it would take about 3 days to fully recharge. You'd just barely make it with the 40 watt panel before hard-sulfation walks your capacity down.

Now you can juggle the pieces - having more than 4 hours of solar insolation would be nice. Doubling your panel power would do. Reducing your load so you can use a smaller battery and not draw down to 50% .... it's all a juggling act. You'll do fine and have some room to grow.

That ups-style agm probably has a maximum inrush current of about 7amps, so your CTEK will do just fine. Supplementing your solar with it means if you are suddenly caught with a string of bad weather, your discharged battery won't suffer.


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## IonicBond (Aug 24, 2013)

ChrisGarrett said:


> Going forward, a battery needs to be connected, even a small one, or even a weaker one, to feed the load.



Yep. Note that those load-connects on the CC are for low-amperage needs like small lighting, small radios, basically anything that could be considered a parasitic draw. When using things like inverters, or devices with large current needs, attach directly to the battery. But you can connect the small stuff directly too without using the load terminals. Just keep an eye on your discharge voltage.

If you don't connect the battery first, the controller won't get it's brain together, and think you have a badly abused battery on the other end, and will not charge at all, or in some cases, go immediately into float when a battery is finally installed last instead of properly going into the bulk/absorb routine. Batts first!

Forgot to mention a few other things:
100% DOD does NOT mean discharging to zero volts! It means the end of the rated 20-hour capacity nearing usually 10.75 to 11v or so.

When receiving / purchasing a battery, make sure it is not below an initial 12.5 to maybe 12.4v at the terminals. If it is, that means it is new-old stock, or has been sitting in the distribution chain possibly under hot conditions, doing nothing but hard-sulfating. You'll be paying for far less capacity than you bargained for. The easiest thing to do is return / refund / recycle it and start off on a good footing 12.4v + to begin with.

Use the rated voltage settings when setting jumpers, and not always the silkscreen labeling on the charge controller. For instance, some Morningstars have a sealed/agm and flooded jumper. For most, sealed/agm is really applicable to gel, which wants no more than about 14.1v absorb, which is too low for agm. Use the flooded setting instead which usually gets up to 14.4v at least.


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## Norm (Aug 24, 2013)

I am waiting on this meter and have this USB supply for my battery box build, inputs and out puts will be 30A Anderson Powerpoles, the USB supply is excellent just 30 millivolts over 5 Volts, initially it had two USBs for apple and two vanilla flavour it's very simple to make them all Apple. I hope to build the box this week.

Norm


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## IonicBond (Aug 26, 2013)

Norm - I can't wait to see the box! Between you and Chris it makes me somewhat ashamed with all my temporary hookups..

That meter is great - it will easily allow you to detect when the battery has reached a full charge, which when the electrolyte is new is somewhere near C/100 or lower. So once you reach about 260 milliamps on say a 26ah battery in absorb mode, it is basically done and ready for float. The CTEK, like my NOCO, may not have a constant float, but "float mode monitoring", which gets close to fully charged, but really expects a vehicle charging system to take it all the way, or just wait until it discharges down to a preset lower level.

Fortunately, your solar setup will ensure that your agm is actually capable of being fully charged down to C/100 - weather/time permitting of course. But that's only when the electrolyte is in good shape.

If the battery is aging, and the electrolyte may be drying out, you may never reach C/100 in ocv conditions, and in that case, using that meter to monitor for no change in current after about 2 hours may be used to indicate the end. In extremely bad cases, the float current can rise to something like 1A and never drop, and if so, case swelling usually (but not always) accompanies this dried-out condition.


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## SemiMan (Aug 26, 2013)

IonicBond said:


> That will be a nice setup! Use the agm/snowflake mode, (14.7 volts) and not the motorcycle mode.
> 
> Some napkin-calc with a 26ah batt. You don't want to go below 50% DOD, so that means that you have 13ah to play with. Let's assume you use all 13ah during field day. How long / days would it take to charge it with a 40 watt panel?
> 
> ...




I think you meant 6.5 * 1.2, not 1.7. Many AGM batteries have better round trip charge efficiency that 80% and most over 90%, so 1.1 may be more accurate.


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## SemiMan (Aug 26, 2013)

IonicBond said:


> A general guide to recharging is (AH used / A charge current) * 1.7 = hours needed to allow for efficiency compensation during charge. Not exact, but ballpark. Your geographical solar-insolation will help determine this. Stay under 72 hours if at all possible, the less the better. This will help guide your selection of panel wattage needed obviously.



Your explanation for the 1.7 number is not accurate. This has nothing to do with efficiency compensation. A good quality AGM battery only requires 105 -110% of the capacity of the battery to fully and completely charge.

However, when you near the end of the charge, no matter how much charge capability you have, you can only push so much current into the battery and the charge current will drop significantly going from whatever your charge rate is to C/100 or so when you stop charging the battery. This is when it is fully charged. That is why it takes quite a lot longer than capacity/charge current.

You are overstating how dangerous running below 75% SOC is. If I was below 75% SOC with a good AGM battery, I would not be worried about charging it within 72 hours. Within a week or two yes, but not 72 hours. Sure that is perfectly ideal, but a good AGM battery can sit at 25% SOC for a few days with almost un-noticable capacity damage. I would not stay there much longer. At 75% SOC, you could sit there for several weeks with almost no impact on capacity. The less state of charge, the more important to charge of course.

What is very important for all lead-acid, and not just AGM is that the battery is truly fully charged. That does not just mean reaching a termination voltage, but staying at the termination voltage until the battery is fully charged. Most good solar chargers will of course do this. Do they have good temperature compensation .... maybe. For Australia I would not be worried. For cold climate ... it can be an issue.

Solar Insolation is of course an average over large periods of time. In Australia you may be consistent, but in other areas you could be much lower over a short period of time or you could be higher if you are lucky. Most data used is 20 year averages.

Semiman


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## SemiMan (Aug 26, 2013)

Norm said:


> Thanks Chris, I'm trying to put together a portable system roughly based on yours, not sure why, I have no need, but I thought it might be a fun project.
> 
> So far I've ordered.
> 
> ...




I would ditch that charge controller and get something better. There is little benefit to a $10 charger to take care of an expensive battery. Many of these cheap controllers do not implement a proper algorithm. They just charge to a certain voltage and turn off. That is a recipe for a sulfated battery. This one claims to turn off at 14V. That is too low to properly charge as well.

Semiman


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## Norm (Aug 26, 2013)

SemiMan said:


> I would ditch that charge controller and get something better.


What would you recommend? anything on Ebay that is good?
Norm


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## SemiMan (Aug 26, 2013)

I have a hard time recommending anything off Ebay as you have really no clue how it works. You should be able to get Phocos in your area. They are usually pretty reasonably priced. Even a low cost Morningstar from a local dealer would be better. How long your battery lasts is highly dependent on your charge controller. 

I don't know the dealers in Australia so not sure what to recommend. My experience in the past testing low cost charge controllers is that they are worth what you pay .... and you will keep paying with batteries.

Semiman


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## Norm (Aug 26, 2013)

I see this controller also from the guy I bought the panel from.

Keep in mind the majority of the time, I'll be charging with the charger at home, the solar will only be used occasionally.

I am out of the city and most dealers are over a 100 K from me, so ebay is very convenient.

Norm


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## ChrisGarrett (Aug 26, 2013)

Norm said:


> I see this controller also from the guy I bought the panel from.
> 
> Keep in mind the majority of the time, I'll be charging with the charger at home, the solar will only be used occasionally.
> 
> ...



http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mornings...088&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=321188892638&#ht_4499wt_961

I might look at that one, as it's a major player in the solar controller game.

6A P.V. input and 6A load, so that should be acceptable for most charging applications. Running a tanning bed, or a table saw, maybe not.

Nothing wrong with the one you're looking at except it's a 'no-name' brand.

If you need to edit the link out of my post, feel free. I only posted an Ebay link because you did, lol!

Chris


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## Norm (Aug 26, 2013)

Links are fine Chris as long as you are you aren't an obvious shill, which I know you aren't 

I think I'll order from your link.

Norm


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## SemiMan (Aug 26, 2013)

This is a nice controller for the money. Set point is lower than I would like but it has an equalization boost every 28 days. Cutoff is 11.5 which is good. Often they are too low and completely discharge the battery.

Semiman

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4


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## SemiMan (Aug 26, 2013)

Norm the one you linked is likely okay. There is a Chinese company that makes these for a bunch of private labels. They are not too bad.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4


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## Norm (Aug 26, 2013)

I was going to build a plywood battery box but I spotted this small cooler when i was at Bunnings.










There will be an piece of aluminium sheet mounted about a centimetre below the top of the box to mount everything.

Norm


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## SemiMan (Aug 26, 2013)

Nice implementation. I may do that with my setup.

Semiman

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4


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## Norm (Aug 27, 2013)

ChrisGarrett said:


> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mornings...088&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=321188892638&#ht_4499wt_961
> 
> I might look at that one, as it's a major player in the solar controller game.


Chris I order Morningstar SHS-10 12Volt 10Amp DC Solar Controller.


Norm


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## IonicBond (Aug 28, 2013)

SemiMan said:


> Your explanation for the 1.7 number is not accurate. This has nothing to do with efficiency compensation. A good quality AGM battery only requires 105 -110% of the capacity of the battery to fully and completely charge.


I pulled that number from the PowerSonic manual - they actually state 1.76. But yes, better agm's probably 1.2



> You are overstating how dangerous running below 75% SOC is.


I might be over-cautious since I'm usually in 90F temps much of the time. My secondary concern that many forget is that sulfation isn't the only thing happening at low soc's - grid corrosion is also doing it's dirty work.


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## SemiMan (Aug 28, 2013)

IonicBond said:


> I pulled that number from the PowerSonic manual - they actually state 1.76. But yes, better agm's probably 1.2
> 
> 
> I might be over-cautious since I'm usually in 90F temps much of the time. My secondary concern that many forget is that sulfation isn't the only thing happening at low soc's - grid corrosion is also doing it's dirty work.




That 1.75 from the PowerSonic manual is not caused by charge efficiency, it is caused by charge acceptance. As the battery gets closer to fully charged you can only pump charge into it so fast, at least using something approaching a constant voltage algorithm. 

If you look at their charts they show charge efficiency in the 90%+ range except at high temps and low currents and also cold temps and high currents.

In their charging graphs they do show a charge volume of 120% though which seems high at least for an AGM battery in good condition.

Semiman


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## ChrisGarrett (Aug 29, 2013)

Norm said:


> Chris I order Morningstar SHS-10 12Volt 10Amp DC Solar Controller.
> 
> 
> Norm



That should be more than sufficient.

I didn't see that model in 10A, but I looked at the Australian prices for my Sun Saver 10-L 10A model with low voltage battery disconnect and they were over $80 AU before shipping and I didn't think that you wanted to spend that much.

As always, post pics when you get it all up and running!

Chris


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## Norm (Sep 2, 2013)

A bit more work on my battery box.









Three mm aluminium panel with meter, USB sockets, fuse and Anderson Power Poles still to be added. The finger hole is for lifting the paned which will be held down with Velcro. The meter isn't sitting flush, just trying fit. The panel will be painted black when all the metal work is finished, prior to mounting everything.

Norm


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## ChrisGarrett (Sep 2, 2013)

Norm said:


> A bit more work on my battery box.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Ha! Looks very professional right now. I have an amp/volt meter, not as elaborate as yours, but I've held off installing it, as I have no vessel to really place it in, like you do and it would just be hanging off of my wires that I've posted above. Certainly not as elegant as your implementation.

Good for you!

It's a fun project, no doubt.

Chris


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## Norm (Sep 3, 2013)

ChrisGarrett said:


> It's a fun project, no doubt.
> 
> Chris



It's is a fun project. Just wish there was an easier way to make square holes Chris, I've been starting the cut with my Dremel and then finishing off with a hacksaw and file.

Norm


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## Taschenlampe Dude (Sep 3, 2013)

Norm said:


> It's is a fun project. Just wish there was an easier way to make square holes Chris, I've been starting the cut with my Dremel and then finishing off with a hacksaw and file.
> 
> Norm



You might consider something like this, Norm.


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## Norm (Sep 3, 2013)

Taschenlampe Dude said:


> You might consider something like this, Norm.


Thanks for the suggestion, I do have exactly that nibbling tool, unfortunately it only good for 18 gauge / about 1mm my panel is 3mm 

Norm


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## billy_gr (Sep 3, 2013)

Norm quick question what is the maximum panel that you can use with this controller ?

I am gathering some info for a similar project (to drive some LED lamps) but the Voc vs Watt per panel cause me headache...

Bill


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## Norm (Sep 3, 2013)

billy_gr said:


> Norm quick question what is the maximum panel that you can use with this controller ?l


Bill :welcome:

Maximum input is listed as 10 Amps so I'm guessing 120Watts, someone more knowledgeable than I am will come and correct me shortly. 

Norm


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## billy_gr (Sep 3, 2013)

really nice to be a member of CPF 

I made the same assumption... but when i look on some cheap 120Watt panel... the Voc was 40 Volts...

After a bit of more searching most of the 120Watt panels have an open voltage of around 20-22Volts so this could be the maximum for this type of controllers.

240Watt goes up to 30-40 volts so it is a no go

I don't want to buy a controller for a 40-60 Watt panel and then after an upgrading the system with a bigger panel buy again a new controller...

Thanks for the info, keep up posted with the process


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## SemiMan (Sep 3, 2013)

Some controllers will naturally current limit thought most PWM will not. 12V nominal (20-22VOC) panels above 120W are rare, but you can always put two together. Most 80W panels have a short circuit current in the 4.5 - 5amp range so it would be dicey with two not to violate the specifications of a 10amp controller, especially since the short circuit current goes up as the panels heat up.

Of course you are only going to hit that peak for a brief period per day.

You can get a 240W panel, you just need an MPPT controller instead of a PWM controller.

Semiman


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## Norm (Sep 5, 2013)

billy_gr said:


> Norm quick question what is the maximum panel that you can use with this controller ?
> 
> I am gathering some info for a similar project (to drive some LED lamps) but the Voc vs Watt per panel cause me headache...
> 
> Bill



Just found this page Best Deals Morningstar SHS-10 Solar Controller 10 Amp 12 Volt 170 Watts.

Specifications:

Solar Current: 10A / 170 Watts

Load Current: 10A / 170 Watts

System Voltage: 12V

Low Voltage Disconnect: 11.5V

Low Voltage Reconnect: 12.6V

Norm


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## ChrisGarrett (Sep 5, 2013)

Norm said:


> Just found this page Best Deals Morningstar SHS-10 Solar Controller 10 Amp 12 Volt 170 Watts.
> 
> Specifications:
> 
> ...



That's basically the SunSaver 10-L made for the non-Canadian/US markets as your link states. The housing and terminal blocks are different, but the operating specs appear to be identical.

30w panel appear to output at ~1.75A, if you go by the ratings sticker on most of these panels. 

My two 30w mono crystaline panels are ~1.75 amps, each, so 60w gets me ~3.5A in a laboratory. Double that for 7A, throw in another 30w and 1.75A and we're just below 9A at 8.75A. Shave off a third from the sixth 30w panel and you're at 170w and almost 10A, for the unit's max.

Fun with math.

10A would be nice, but I'm cool at 3.5A for my battery charging needs.

People don't realize, but these bigger glass paned panels get heavy, if you need things to be mobile, or semi-portable, so keep that in mind. Plus, they start to get unwieldly, if you have to move them around.

Chris


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## Norm (Sep 5, 2013)

Like most thing I do Chris, the controller is overkill I know :devil:

Norm


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## Norm (Sep 5, 2013)

A bit more work today, I mounted my controller directly to the panel with Anderson Powerpoles on the output.







Norm


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## ChrisGarrett (Sep 6, 2013)

Norm said:


> A bit more work today, I mounted my controller directly to the panel with Anderson Powerpoles on the output.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Looks good! Your controller seems to be more in line with the Gen 3 SS-10L, which has the battery SOC indicator LEDs on it.

I should have gotten that one, but it didn't work out and that's why I keep a DMM in my charger/battery box, lol!

Chris


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## Norm (Sep 8, 2013)

I'd just like to thank you guys for convincing me to upgrade my controller, tried charging with the cheap controller, when the controller had finished charging I put the battery on the ctek and it continued to top off the battery for about an hour, same exercise with new controller and the ctek told me the battery was completely charged.

Norm


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## SemiMan (Sep 8, 2013)

That is what we are here for 

I am glad you made the investment.

I have designed a fairly sophisticated MPPT controller and evaluated numerous cheap to mid end controllers and spent too many an hour reviewing algorithms, test fixture data and real world data. Many controllers are not very good unfortunately.


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## NeedMoreLight (Sep 8, 2013)

So if someone is using a charger like the Nitecore i4 which can be plugged into a 12 volt car cigarette lighter socket, how much wattage/amperage would one need for solar panels to do the same thing? I see some panels with a 12 socket and controller already installed and made me curious.


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## ChrisGarrett (Sep 9, 2013)

NeedMoreLight said:


> So if someone is using a charger like the Nitecore i4 which can be plugged into a 12 volt car cigarette lighter socket, how much wattage/amperage would one need for solar panels to do the same thing? I see some panels with a 12 socket and controller already installed and made me curious.



I'm not an EE, or gizmo designer, but if you look at your 12v adapater, it will give you the current output and that gives you an idea. Remember, most batteries that you charge up aren't completely empty, so you're not 'spending' your solar power, or mother battery power, completely achieving the listed capacity number on the cell.

Also and I may be wrong here, but most of these chargers use a pulse current to charge, so they're not charging all 4 cells at full current at any given point in time, they're rapidly rotating from bay to bay and back again.

Finally, there are 'inefficiencies' to this stuff. PWM controllers lose a little bit of power regulating the solar panels and chargers lose a little bit of power charging up batteries...it's never 100% in, 100% out.

A good 'rule of thumb' for me is, is that I'm going to lose 25%, either from my solar panels, or my mother batteries.

So if I need 4Ah to fill my batteries up to 100%, I'll need 5Ah of juice from the mother battery, or solar panels.

That's how I look at it, anyhow, but I'm an English Lit/Comm. major.

Chris


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## Wiggle (Sep 10, 2013)

I'm considering doing something like this and looking to buy local since shipping seems quite expensive for these type of items. A local seller has some stuff here: http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-...eries-Too-W0QQAdIdZ373716295QQfeaturedAdZtrue

Do these seem like alright prices? I was looking at getting the 40 watt panel, the 10A controller and the 120 Ah battery.


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## ChrisGarrett (Sep 10, 2013)

Wiggle said:


> I'm considering doing something like this and looking to buy local since shipping seems quite expensive for these type of items. A local seller has some stuff here: http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-...eries-Too-W0QQAdIdZ373716295QQfeaturedAdZtrue
> 
> Do these seem like alright prices? I was looking at getting the 40 watt panel, the 10A controller and the 120 Ah battery.



His prices aren't bad. I see $199 CD + tax and shipping for the 90w panel and they are mono-crystaline, so pretty efficient. If you're going with 40w, then you'll be spending less. I don't know that brand of controller, but it looks full featured, if it isn't junk. I didn't see a price on that, but my Mornintstar SS 10L above, was $70 shipped. My two 30w mono panels and 2 Y connectors were $178 shipped, from California to Miami, as a reference and I could have saved maybe $20 off of that, had I done the seller's Ebay auctions instead of the package deal.

A 120Ah SLA/AGM is a big honking battery for sure. I just bought a 22Ah Chrome battery for $46 shipped to go along with my initial 12Ah PowerSonic and they're made here in Indiana, US and get good marks. They market a $238 US (shipped) 110Ah SLA/AGM here:

http://www.chromebattery.com/12v-110ah-sealed-lead-acid-sla-battery-m8-t8-terminals.html

but I don't know if they ship out of the US.

Depending on what you'll be running off of the 120Ah battery, you might want to try and swing the 90w pannel for ~$200, as the mother battery will charge that much faster.

As I've mentioned, I have about $400 in my kit and kaboodle, but I view it as a nice little insurance policy that will last for a while and at least keep me illuminated at night, should the power go out for a longish period of time, like it's wont to do here in Miami during hurricane season.

Chris


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## SemiMan (Sep 13, 2013)

Wiggle said:


> I'm considering doing something like this and looking to buy local since shipping seems quite expensive for these type of items. A local seller has some stuff here: http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-...eries-Too-W0QQAdIdZ373716295QQfeaturedAdZtrue
> 
> Do these seem like alright prices? I was looking at getting the 40 watt panel, the 10A controller and the 120 Ah battery.




Thoughts:

- Panel's may be monocrystalline, but at this quality level, that is meaningless. Many polysilicon cells are more efficient than many mono cells. Look at the label on the panel: "Solar Mooule". So much care they did not even include the D in module. No meaningful certifications (CSA is only special inspection .... pretty much useless). Summary --- no name crap and the price is about what one would pay for no name crap.

- Charge controller: More no name crap. Don't waste your money on it, even if it is free as your batteries are not!

- Batteries: More crap .... It's an Everstart 27DC-850N from Walmart. Poor quality. I would be very concerned about how long these have been sitting without being charged. They could be sulfating already. That 120AH is a stretch. Maybe at a really low discharge rate. Flooded deep cycle cells require maintenance to get long life. Don't expect real long life out of it. They are selling it cheaper than Walmart ... so again, I expect these have been sitting around for a while.

- The people selling it: ... you know the word I am going to use. I watched the installation video ..... scary. They call themselves electrical people? .... NOT. The guy has no clue what he is doing or saying for that matter. I would not reward them with your money.


Semiman


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## Wiggle (Sep 13, 2013)

Thanks for the assessment. Little disappointed as it was a convenient local source but since it seems that the quality is not up to par I will pass.


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## Norm (Oct 5, 2013)

Getting on with my Battery Box build.




​Charge discharge Amps / Voltage / battery % / capacity in Ah all in the one meter, fuse, four USBs, four Anderson Power Pole connectors and yet to be added two cigarette light sockets (you can see the two pilot holes also have to add a LED indicator next to the USBs. Most bits are just sitting in the panel for the photo.

Lift the panel out to reveal, jump starter and battery charger storage.









​Norm


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## ChrisGarrett (Oct 10, 2013)

Looks great Norm! Keep us posted when the project is done.

Chris


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## Norm (Oct 17, 2013)

OK I have a new addiction, now I want to build a set up to run my HAM shack.

Looking at this controller 

30A MPPT Solar Panel Regulator Charge Controller 12V/24V 380W/760W With LCD USB

I've only gone with 30 A as that would cover my maximum peak load and I would like to use the output from the charger rather than direct from the battery as I'm doing with my portable set up. Any other controller suggestions would be welcomed, Chris you have convinced me that the controller is just as important as any other component, so I'm willing to pay for the right controller. I like the information available using this controller.

I just bought a 130W of mono panel.

Norm


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## ChrisGarrett (Oct 17, 2013)

Norm, I'm no expert on MPPT controllers, but when I was researching the PWM versions, I came across MPPTs and some of the big players, like Morningstar, Blue Sky, Rogue, Midnight Solar, Xantrex, Outback FM and some others. Prices were generally up and over US $300 and many of the smaller load versions were up over $200, so that one in your link, I don't know how good it is?

I think it's SemiMan that might be able to comment on that brand, since he has stated that he's built them before and he's in the commercial 'solar game' IIRC.

In the gun hobby, we have a saying: 'Buy right, buy once, cry once'.

Chris


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## Norm (Oct 21, 2013)

OK, I bought another Morningstar model SS-20L-12V 12Volt 20Amp DC Solar Controller with LVD, would have liked a 30A but 20A will do the job OK.

Received my 135W mono panel, need to buy some Aluminium channel to mount it on the roof, and some cable to wire things up.

Norm


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## SemiMan (Oct 22, 2013)

Norm said:


> OK I have a new addiction, now I want to build a set up to run my HAM shack.
> 
> Looking at this controller
> 
> ...



Looking at the controller as well as some of the text on it leads me to believe it is not mppt. For one the data sheet text says pwm charge method. Two, the heat sink is pretty big for mppt. I hear this is common. On eBay that units marked mppt are not.


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## ChrisGarrett (Oct 22, 2013)

SemiMan said:


> Looking at the controller as well as some of the text on it leads me to believe it is not mppt. For one the data sheet text says pwm charge method. Two, the heat sink is pretty big for mppt. I hear this is common. On eBay that units marked mppt are not.



He got another Morningstar..the SS-20-LV, which is a PWM controller, like his first one, so I think that we've move on from the 'true' MPPT controllers.

IMO, he bought a good controller, albeit, a PWM version.

Chris


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## Norm (Oct 24, 2013)

Received the SS-20L-12V 12Volt 20Amp DC Solar Controller controller today, unlike the 10W version which is plastic the 20W is all nicely anodised aluminium, also has a link for sealed batteries or flooded batteries, my 110Ah AGM is sealed, but I know from when I repaired it, it contains ordinary battery acid not a gel, I'm presuming it would be classed as a flooded battery, comments please. I'm sure AGM is usually charged at a slightly higher Voltage. Set to flooded at the moment, but I won't finish the install for a few weeks.

You can see the two settings in the table below.


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## ChrisGarrett (Oct 24, 2013)

Your SS-20-L is made the way my SS-10-L is made, that is to say constructed with a metal case. I don't know why your 10 is plastic and I found that odd when I looked at the ad on Ebay.

Anyhow, I think it was Ionicbond who suggested that I remove the jumper from my 10 and charge at the flooded battery voltage rate. I think it keeps 'sulfation' down to a minimum.

As somebody said: There isn't a single AGM/SLA battery that leaves the factory, that has NOT been charged at the higher rate.

It's all Greek to me, but I'm charging at the higher rate when I charge.

Chris


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## Norm (Oct 24, 2013)

They're both from the same seller Chris, there must be a budget version of the 10 all packaging and manuals are almost the same, I paid about $60 for the 10 about half the price I see the aluminium 10 on ebay. The plastic 10 doesn't have the flooded cell option. I'm not fussed it's only my portable set up. I'd rather have the best controller for home were it will be in 24h 360 use.

Edit: just found the difference the plastic version is Morningstar SHS-10 12V 10A solar, 10A load, *wet cells only*, Solar Charger. So from what your saying that won't be a problem.

Norm

Norm


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## Grizzman (Oct 24, 2013)

This thread has inspired me to finally start assembling a portable system.

:thanks:


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## Norm (Oct 24, 2013)

Grizzman said:


> This thread has inspired me to finally start assembling a portable system.
> 
> :thanks:



Welcome to the group. :thumbsup:

Norm


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## Grizzman (Oct 29, 2013)

I've got all required components ordered, and the first will be arriving tomorrow. I've decided to use a Fat .50 Cal ammo can since they're durable and weatherproof. A Chrome 22AH battery should lay on its side in the bottom with a recessed aluminum plate for the other components located above it.

I still need to order the aluminum plate and a couple Chassis Mounts for Anderson Power Poles. I plan to surface mount the charge controller, with the other components mounted from below.

Norm, how do you like the voltage/amperage meter?

This isn't going to take nearly as long as I was expecting.

Grizz


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## Norm (Oct 29, 2013)

Grizzman said:


> Norm, how do you like the voltage/amperage meter?


Just about to order a second to use with my home set-up, it combines a lot of useful functions in one handy package. You can program the size of your battery in Ah and read Ah% or Ah remaining or Amps in, Amps out or if your running a 5A load and have 7A from your panel it will show the other 2A as charge current also has a timer function that is resettable at any time.

This is the USB module I used, it's very handy, originally had 2 Apple USBs and 2 vanilla USBs, it's very simple to change all to Apple.

Norm


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## Grizzman (Oct 29, 2013)

That meter does appear useful. I've sketched up a design utilizing it, and I'll probably order one in a few days. 

I was very surprised at the lack of available chassis mounted USB modules with more than 2 USBs. Others here may like to see the mounding method you used for your module. I ended up ordering a power distribution panel with two USB and two cigarette lighter jacks. If I need more USB outputs, I've already got a cigarette lighter module with dual USBs, and a single to dual cigarette lighter splitter.

Grizz


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## Norm (Oct 30, 2013)

I ordered cigarette lighter sockets about 7 weeks ago from DX, they never arrived, DX finally did a refund for the order. I still have to reorder, I'm not buying them locally at about $12 each 

Just finished my home set-up today (minus the meter), I was going to roof mount the panel, but theses days I not as steady on my feet as I once was I settled for fence mounting, it might miss an hour of sun in the morning, that it would have seen on the roof, the rest of the day will have the same exposure.

Norm


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## Norm (Oct 31, 2013)

My home set up, sorry for the quality of the pic.




Hard to see but in the bottom right corner there is a battery box containing a 110 Ah battery and the controller, you can see a white plastic right angle down pipe fitting that's the pass through for all of my cables, the 6 metre pole supports one end of my long wire fed by an Icom AH4 on the top of the mast there is a 6 metre long vertical collinear for 2M and 70cm fed by LDF 5 - 50.

I'm getting the full rated output of 7.7A from the 130W mono panel in full sunshine. My radio shack and all battery charging is now 100% solar 

Norm


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## Norm (Nov 30, 2013)

Grizzman said:


> That meter does appear useful. I've sketched up a design utilizing it, and I'll probably order one in a few days.
> 
> I was very surprised at the lack of available chassis mounted USB modules with more than 2 USBs. Others here may like to see the mounding method you used for your module. I ended up ordering a power distribution panel with two USB and two cigarette lighter jacks. If I need more USB outputs, I've already got a cigarette lighter module with dual USBs, and a single to dual cigarette lighter splitter.
> 
> Grizz



How are you progressing Grizz?

Norm


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## Grizzman (Nov 30, 2013)

Norm said:


> How are you progressing Grizz?
> 
> Norm



I'd say I'm making pretty good progress. Have you completely finished your box yet? Your home setup looks good.


The only component I'm waiting on is the charge controller, which I ordered first. I cancelled that order a few days ago, and the Morningstar SS-10L should be arriving on Tuesday, from another vendor. Oh ya, I also need to add a fuse, but that should be pretty simple.

The only other item I need to purchase is the sheet aluminum into which I'll be chassis and surface mounting the electronics. The sheet metal brake arrived last week, so I can bend the sheet to incorporate a separate storage section in the Fat 50 ammo can I'm using for a box. I hope to purchase the sheet within the next couple days.

I chose a PowerFilm R21 for my first panel, and will likely get an R28 in the not to distant future. The Baintech DC power distribution panel arrived from Australia very quickly. The battery is a 22 ah unit from Chrome Battery. The voltage/amperage meter arrived yesterday. Access through the aluminum sheet is via Anderson PowerPoles, and I'm looping the battery connections through it, so I can easily use a larger external unit.

I plan to start documenting the build, with photos, soon.

I borrowed heavily from others in this thread, so I'd like to thank all of you for your ideas.


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## Norm (Dec 9, 2013)

Sorry Grizz I've just seen your reply. The cigarette lighter sockets I ordered finally arrived after three and half months, that's all I need to do is install them and my portable set-up is complete.

Norm


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## Grizzman (Dec 9, 2013)

I edited my previous post, instead of making a new one, so I wasn't expecting an immediate response from you.

I'm glad your cigarette lighter sockets finally arrived.

I've completed all wiring for my build, and now need to get off work early enough to buy the aluminum sheet. I hope to be able to leave work early tomorrow. I've got another large project spinning up, so I really need to get this one finished.


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## Norm (Dec 9, 2013)

Good luck with the aluminium, I'm lucky enough to have a workshop close by where they will cut and fold etc. for no too much cash

Norm


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## Grizzman (Dec 17, 2013)

My portable solar charging setup is now basically complete. All I have left to do is come up with a spacer to keep the battery from sliding around in the bottom of the box. I also need to program the meter for the capacity of the battery. I might as well add some Nyogel to the boxe's rubber gasket to assist in waterproofness. The entire solution, including rollable PowerFilm panel should be fully waterproof (I used silicone to seal the bolt holes through the sides of the box) and able to withstand my typical clumsiness. I may touch up some paint that was scraped off the aluminum, since I wasn't patient enough to wait a few hours for it to fully cure.

Here are the components laid out and ready to be installed into the 3000 series aluminum panel. The panel rests on 6/32" threaded couplers screwed onto bolts. I planned to use angle aluminum, but the box's width didn't allow for that, so I went with this solution.








Here's a photo of the finished aluminum panel. The front section will be used to store cables, battery chargers, spare fuses, etc. It also acts as the front wall of the battery compartment. I bent the rear edge down since I figured that would be simpler than cutting it off perfectly straight at the proper length (with a hack saw), grooming it with the file, then sanding.....ya you get the point, it was the easy solution. The Klein nibbler I chose worked, but it wasn't without it's faults. It was relatively easy to cut out square knock-out holes, but it chewed up both the top and bottom surfaces enough that I felt obligated to sand it back smooth. My box and pan brake worked out very well, and I only made two practice bends before forming the panel. I look forward to having it for future projects. Luckily, the only noteworthy error I made with the holes was marking the outside edge of the distribution panel height, instead of the required hole edge. While not perfect, it is definitely functional, and not worth fabricating a replacement panel. 








Here's the empty aluminum panel sitting in the box for the final test fitting before I mounted the components.







This photo shows the wiring of the components on the rear of the panel. It's a pretty simple design, partly owing to the complete power distribution panel, instead of separate USB and cigarette lighter components. This panel incorporates a circuit breaker and power switches for each output. 








This photo shows the completed assembly powered up and ready for use, with a few items that will be stored in the box. I still need to purchase a small 12 volt AA battery charger that can also live in the box. The Anderson PowerPole 4 conductor chassis mount on the left provides loop-through of the battery connections through the panel. This allows me to use or charge an external battery by connecting it to the input conductors. A side benefit is that removing the jumper PowerPoles disconnects the battery from the system to eliminate parasitic drain from the meter and charge controller when it isn't being used.








Here it is ready for travel.






It was a fun and educational project that should be very useful next summer during camping trips, yet fully ready to assist during the few power outages my home experiences. I almost forgot to say that the box, with 22 ah battery weighs in at 22.6 pounds.

Grizz


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## ChrisGarrett (Dec 18, 2013)

A damn fine job.

You should figure out how much labor and how much in parts (sans battery) and see if you can sell them? I don't have the tools, or electrical acumen, to put one of those together, but I'd sure consider buying something like that for a reasonable price.

Chris


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## Norm (Dec 18, 2013)

Great Job Grizz, the box looks great and very functional. :kewlpics::goodjob:

I used two lengths or 10mm right angle attached to the bottom of the box with slots to accommodate two heavy cable ties as tie downs for the battery.

Norm


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## Grizzman (Dec 18, 2013)

Thanks for the feedback. 

I don't have nearly enough time to devote to multi-unit production, but it wouldn't be too difficult to build a second one. The distribution panel's price of $115 may make it undesirable (but easy to connect, with only two wires).

For now, I'll just grab a piece of 3/4 inch plywood, cut it to size, paint it green  and drop it in between the battery and rear wall of the box. I may get more creative after my other current project has been completed.

Grizz


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## Illum (Dec 19, 2013)

Grizzman, 


can you provide a BOM, specifically the output console and the digital meter? That's a sweet setup!
The output console will eliminate alot of loose ends. For 12V output, USB output, and Voltmeter with independent switches adds up to alot of space if constructed with entirely discrete components. Nice to know there exists a commercial unit that has everything integrated.


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## Grizzman (Dec 19, 2013)

The power distribution panel is the BTCP004R from Baintech. Panels are also offered with Merit and Engel outlets, in addition to USB and cigarette lighter. Here's a link to the manufacturer's product page of the one I used. 

http://www.baintech.com.au/power-panels/baintech-dc-distribution-panel


Anderson Powerpole Chassis Mounts are available in both four and eight conductor models. It would have been simpler for me to choose the eight conductor unit, which would have only required one hole. The Anderson Power Products website isn't overly helpful, and I couldn't even locate the chassis mount products on it.


I used the same digital meter as Norm, which came from eBay. A search for Dual Display Combo Meter 90V 10A should work.


I bought the sealed lead acid 22 AH battery directly from Chrome Battery. I chose this particular battery as much for its dimensions as anything else. 

http://www.chromebattery.com/review/product/list/id/321/


The Fat50 ammo can is wide enough for the battery to lay on its side. This isn't possible with standard .50 cal cans. It was purchased from http://www.armynavysales.com/field-gear-ammo-cans.aspx.


The durability and simplicity of the integrated power distribution unit is the exact reason I avoided discreet components.

Grizz


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## Norm (Dec 19, 2013)

Grizzman said:


> Anderson Powerpole Chassis Mounts are available in both four and eight conductor models. It would have been simpler for me to choose the eight conductor unit, which would have only required one hole. The Anderson Power Products website isn't overly helpful, and I couldn't even locate the chassis mount products on it.
> 
> I used the same digital meter as Norm, which came from eBay. A search for Dual Display Combo Meter 90V 10A should work.



The USB module I used: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200930615038?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 

The Meter: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181114198565?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 *Check the meter specs., there are a few different models.*

Powerpole accessories: http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-accessories/

Norm


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## Grizzman (Dec 19, 2013)

Thanks for the links, Norm. I avoided including links to resellers, but I suppose when that's the best source of info, it must be alright. 

I also bought the PowerPole items from Powerwerx.


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## Norm (Jan 8, 2014)

Finally added cigarette lighter sockets after waiting months for them to arrive and a switch for the USB module.





Norm


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## ChrisGarrett (Jan 8, 2014)

You have a new 'start-up' in your future, Norm.

I would gladly buy that item and it looks very professionally done.

Now you have to get out and test it rigorously and report back.

Sea trials man, sea trials.

Chris


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## Norm (Jan 9, 2014)

Thanks Chris you got me started , it's been a fun project.

Used it just yesterday, I had reprogrammed my Icom 2720 and mistakenly used the program for the shack radio, I have a two hour timer to automatically turn the radio off which isn't in the shack radio, the car sat for a few days and the battery was flat so I was able to jump start the car and get on my way 

Norm


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## kosPap (Jan 9, 2014)

Norm said:


> The Meter: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181114198565?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 *Check the meter specs., there are a few different models.*
> Norm



May i ask you how this meter calculates battery capacity?


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## HKJ (Jan 9, 2014)

kosPap said:


> May i ask you how this meter calculates battery capacity?



This type of meter does not calculate or measure battery capacity, but sums current and power to Ah and Wh.
I.e. if you charge the battery fully, then reset the meter and then discharge the battery, it will show how many Ah and Wh you got from the battery.

These meters are usual not very precise at low currents (i..e. milli amperes), but works acceptable for a couple of amps.


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## HarryN (Jan 9, 2014)

Nice builds - thanks for posting the info on the details.

This thread and some other things has given me the "build a solar something" itch. 

A few years ago I saw a presentation comparing the output loss due to clouds, and I "think" I remember that mono crystalline types held up better over a range of conditions than the multi and poly crystalline PV cells. Does that sound correct or do I have this mistaken ?

I have been surprised how difficult it is to obtain the higher end efficiency panels such as sunpower, most of what I am finding is only 14% or less. Anyone find higher end cells in the retail market ?


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## ChrisGarrett (Jan 9, 2014)

Norm said:


> Thanks Chris you got me started , it's been a fun project.
> 
> Used it just yesterday, I had reprogrammed my Icom 2720 and mistakenly used the program for the shack radio, I have a two hour timer to automatically turn the radio off which isn't in the shack radio, the car sat for a few days and the battery was flat so I was able to jump start the car and get on my way
> 
> Norm



Hi Norm,

I know that it's sometimes rude to ask, but could you give us a 'break-down' on cost? Even in Australian dollars, it might be helpful to let others know what you have invested in your project, in one post, in cost and labor (hours spent building the thing?) 

I'm just thinking that letting other people know what you have spent on your portable solar/power kit, is a good thing!

I always love to know and I'm not offended by sharing, but that's just me, lol.

For posterity's sake, it will help other CPFers out. Obviously, details help all.

Thanks, Chris


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## Norm (Jan 9, 2014)

No problem Chris *rough prices*, Cooler/ esky $20, meter $26, 26 Ah battery $75, 4 way power pole $15, 4 way USB $6, 3mm aluminium panel off cut $1, cigarette lighter sockets $4, various cable ties, switch, fuse holder and screws and wire from the junk box. Total *about* $150.

Norm


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## ChrisGarrett (Jan 9, 2014)

Norm said:


> No problem Chris *rough prices*, Cooler/ esky $20, meter $26, 26 Ah battery $75, 4 way power pole $15, 4 way USB $6, 3mm aluminium panel off cut $1, cigarette lighter sockets $4, various cable ties, switch, fuse holder and screws and wire from the junk box. Total *about* $150.
> 
> Norm



Thanks.

That's actually less than I was guessing.

I was thinking a few hundred dollars US/Aus. for the whole kit and caboodle.

Cool.

Chris


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## pblanch (Mar 19, 2016)

I know its a bit of an old thread but I love the ammo can charger. 

For a cheap system would attaching something like a cigarette lighter to battery clip http://www.jaycar.com.au/p/PP2007 to an old or new 12V battery and then to a 18650 battery charger work like the Nitecore D2 (with the 12V car lead).

What would the dangers be?


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## Grizzman (Mar 20, 2016)

Ammo cans are inexpensive, durable, and waterproof, so they make pretty good electronics boxes. I only used my setup a couple times last summer, but plan to use it a lot more this summer. 

The cigarette lighter to clip adapter is basically what exists in your car. As long as the 18650 battery charger works from a 12 volt power source, there wouldn't be any danger at all.


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## NH Lumens (Apr 2, 2016)

Some great looking work! 

Like the rest of you, we have occasional power outages, one the result of an ice storm in 2008 that lasted for seven days. Our 5500 watt portable generator keeps us with heat, water and the basic necessities during the day but at night it is turned off. 

I have since greatly expanded my supply of Li-ion powered flashlights (the flashaholic thing) and needed chargers, but the chargers still depend on power to operate. Two of them, an Xtar VP-2 and the charger that came with my Surefire PR1 have 12-volt adapters for use in a standard auto 12-volt socket, so I decided to build my own version of a solar powered charging station to power these two chargers, as well as our numerous hand-held devices that recharge via a USB port.

After doing my due diligence, I settled on the following as the main components;

Pelican 1300 case
Power Sonic PDC-12260 deep cycle AGM battery (28ah)
Renogy 30-watt PV panel
Genasun GV-4 MPPT controller

I used a selection of marine-grade electrical components to keep all connections on the outside of the case (this was to keep the case as small as possible);

Blue Sea Systems 12 Volt Dash Socket
DROK waterproof LED voltmeter
Gardner Bender GSW-16 Heavy Duty Toggle Switch with waterproof boot
OptiMate CABLE O-20 Weatherproof SAE socket

Along with the above was a selection of SAE connectors, fuses, connects, etc. as well as a small momentary push-button switch to activate the voltmeter.
*
Photo 1*

Using marine-grade components and making sure all holes are well sealed, the box remains "weatherproof" though I don't think it could be submerged;







*Photo 2*

From left to right: Blue Sea Systems 12-volt socket, DROK voltmeter, Gardner-Bender DPDT switch, Optimate SAE connector (for connecting PV panel).

DPDT switch operation: center - off (battery totally isolated); right - PV panel _and_ 12-volt socket connected to battery; left - 12-volt socket only connected to battery.

Volt meter operation: with switch in either the left or right position, voltmeter activated via a small push-button momentary switch on the front of the Pelican case. I use the voltmeter as a rough measure of remaining battery capacity. Fully charged, the battery levels off at 13.1 volts (it arrived measuring 11.9 volts, or about 40% charged). 







*Photo 3 - Inside the Case

*The Power Sonic PDC-12260 battery pretty much fills up the Pelican 1300 case. Not very visible in the photo is a piece of 1-inch aluminum angle stock secured to the bottom of the case that holds the battery from sliding to the right into the electrical components. An old heavy-duty rubber cargo mat was cut to fill the small gap between the battery and the case on the top, left and bottom, holding it securely in place. 

The Genasun controller is secured to the top of the battery with some double-sided foam tape, leaving about 1/16th of an inch clearance on the top with the case lid clamped closed.







*Photo 4*

With a piece of foam cut to cover the electrical components, there is enough space to store a few small accessories, including my Anker USB Car Charger.







*Photo 5*

The Renogy 30-watt Monocrystalline Solar Panel mounted on one of my camera tripods. I made a bracket with a camera QR plate to attach the PV panel to the tripod, which I keep in a south-facing window to trickle-charge the battery. Placing the panel outside in direct sunlight produces enough power for the Genasun controller to ramp up to over 1.5 amps, recharging up to about 40% of battery capacity in a day.






I've been using the DIY charging station for the last few weeks since completion and it is so far working well. My next project is converting a pair of table lamps to 12-volt operation for use with the station during power outages, or for normal use with a 12-volt transformer plugged into a switched outlet.


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## sidecross (Apr 2, 2016)

NH Lumens said:


> I have since greatly expanded my supply of Li-ion powered flashlights (the flashaholic thing) and needed chargers, but the chargers still depend on power to operate. Two of them, an Xtar VP-2 and the charger that came with my Surefire PR1 have 12-volt adapters for use in a standard auto 12-volt socket, so I decided to build my own version of a solar powered charging station to power these two chargers, as well as our numerous hand-held devices that recharge via a USB port.



+1

Nice work! :thumbsup:


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## NH Lumens (Apr 2, 2016)

sidecross said:


> +1
> 
> Nice work! :thumbsup:



Thanks! I'll follow up in about a week when I have my table lamp conversion done.


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## pblanch (Apr 7, 2016)

Brilliant.


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## pblanch (Apr 8, 2016)

NH Lumens - I keep looking at your set up and am in awe and looks like something I could even put together, although I cant see how you've connected the multi meter to the battery or the genasun. It looks directly to battery.


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## NH Lumens (Apr 9, 2016)

pblanch said:


> NH Lumens - I keep looking at your set up and am in awe and looks like something I could even put together, although I cant see how you've connected the multi meter to the battery or the genasun. It looks directly to battery.



The DPDT switch has 6 terminals: the output of the Genasun is wired through one set of terminals so it is connected to the battery when the switch is in the right position.

The output socket is wired to the battery through two sets of terminals, so they are connected when the switch is in either the left or right positions.

The voltmeter is wired the same as the output socket, but through a momentary switch so it's not on and drawing power all the time.

The center position of the DPDT switch disconnects the output socket, charge controller and voltmeter from the battery.

The SAE connector for the PV panel is wired directly to the input of the Genasun.

Thanks for taking a look and commenting!


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## NH Lumens (Apr 9, 2016)

A few more photos showing some details.

The photo below is a clearer shot of the wiring, and the 1-inch aluminum battery bracket can also be seen;








Here is the momentary switch on the front of the Pelican case;







The two brass machine screws that hold the battery bracket in place are run up through in the hollow of the two case feet;


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## ChrisGarrett (Apr 12, 2016)

NH Lumens said:


> A few more photos showing some details.
> 
> The photo below is a clearer shot of the wiring, and the 1-inch aluminum battery bracket can also be seen;
> 
> ...



Much like I said to Norm before he passed, you have a nice 'start-up' in your future.

Great work, great posts and great pics, for the rest of us to emulate.

Chris


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## NH Lumens (Apr 13, 2016)

ChrisGarrett said:


> Much like I said to Norm before he passed, you have a nice 'start-up' in your future.



Chris, thank you for your kind words and encouragement! I have more parts inbound for further improvement: add hardware to better secure the battery in the case, and upgrade the momentary switch to something more durable (I broke the first switch installing it, but I wasn't shocked since I paid under a dollar for it). 

In terms of commercialization, considering the litigious nature of today's society, offering something like this to the public would be extremely risky without CYA due diligence. A powerful market research case would have to made to justify the cost and risk, as well as a well-developed business plan (all of which sounds like work to me). For now I'm happy tinkering with the build and experimenting to learn how useful such devices can be in day-to-day living.


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## NH Lumens (Apr 15, 2016)

I've been watching charge rates from the Renogy 30 watt monocrystalline collector through the Genasun MPPT charge controller. So far it seems pretty impressive.

The 28ah Power Sonic AGM battery levels off at 13 volts a few hours after a complete charge. I ran the battery down to 12.6 volts (voltmeter dancing between 12.5 and 12.6 volts) through multiple recharges of iPhones and Kindles, which would indicate a DOD level in the low 80 percent range. Placing the collector in direct sunlight mid day under a clear sky brought the battery back to full charge in 1 hour 24 minutes.

My next test will be to run the battery down to 12.0 volts (about a 50% DOD). Based on what I'm seeing so far, I expect the battery will be fully recharged under the same weather conditions in four to five hours. If this holds true, the collector/charge controller combo will exceed my original calculations/expectations (my target was six hours to fully recharge from a 50% DOD).


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## NH Lumens (Apr 17, 2016)

Just as an FYI, I ran another test today.

Yesterday I ran the 28ah AGM battery down to 11.9 volts, which would indicate about a 60% DOD. Today was another blue-sky day at 70 degrees F., with the panel mounted on a tripod and keeping it squared to the sun, fully recharged the battery in 7 hours, 5 minutes. This calculates out to a charge rate of about 2.4 amps an hour from the small 30-watt panel and Genasun MPPT controller.

This is serving as test bed for a larger 800 watt roof-mount system with 440ah of storage that I am envisioning.


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## pblanch (Apr 22, 2016)

Take a look at these beauties I found today. Solar AND wind turbine.





I was so amazed when I spotted them.


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## degarb (Apr 22, 2016)

pblanch said:


> Take a look at these beauties I found today. Solar AND wind turbine.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Whoa! I am imagining, wondering, the small amount of watts of each times 26 to 30 million light poles in the US...If all could contribute their excess energy into the power grid, as micro power plant; how much energy could be produced?


........"There are an estimated *26 million streetlights* in the United States, consuming as much electricity annually as 1.9 million households and generating greenhouse gas emissions equivalent to 2.6 million cars. At least 60 percent of these streetlights are owned and operated by the private sector.".....


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## HarryN (Apr 25, 2016)

I like the pelican case build - very clean setup.


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## Olddawgsrule (Jun 4, 2017)

Some nice little setups here! I have a small one myself to run my Soaker Tub pump. 
The Soaker Tub pump experiment is part of the switch over to Lithium Ion Batteries (18650's to be precise).

Lithiums don't like to be over-charged, so a new controller is on the way.
Currently using one of my older ones, but also am running 4 18650's (vs 3) so they don't over charge.
I also will not mention the controller until I've tested it to be sure it works as described.
I will say it's a 12v 10a mppt with dual USB ports.
Currently using 30w of solar.

I'd like to see it work, but I would recommend a TP (?) controller that matches the device your attempting to charge.
I use a TP4056, but that matches my devices. I use it only with the battery bank removed from the solar setup.
I'm not convinced that the panels will not spike, even with the controller on there..
Just being safe I guess...


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## RandyC (Jul 4, 2018)

NH Lumens said:


> Some great looking work!
> 
> Like the rest of you, we have occasional power outages, one the result of an ice storm in 2008 that lasted for seven days. Our 5500 watt portable generator keeps us with heat, water and the basic necessities during the day but at night it is turned off.
> 
> ...




I like your Pelican box idea. I've been meaning to start something similar built in one of the plastic ammo boxes I saw on an ice fishing forum for powering an ice shanty, another rabbit hole I've been circling and sniffing. Now I'm rethinking...
My local Harbor Freight has their Pelican clone on sale, or did. No reason not to expand that idea to include the added versatility of solar charging.


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