# AKOray AA & AAA Review + RUNTIME



## kosPap

_03 Jan 2010: Added a look at a Similar Flashlight Trustfire F20_
_at __post 390_

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*============================================*

*AKOray AAA Runtime added at **post 42*

Well here is a small review of the AKOray AA & AAA flashlights found on DX and KD

*EDITED*
_After reading the first replies form fellow members it has come to my attention that there are more versions of the AA flashlight. Mine is the 6-mode version (very high, high, LOW, strobe, 2 fluter beacon, SOS)_

*Eye Candy*







Akoray AA, Akoray AAA, Fenix L0D-CE







Akoray AA, Rexlight AA, Akoray AAA

Well they both are a chunk of a light but that means deep reflectors and thick body walls!

*Overview*

Fit and Finish is very good! The both have ACME threads (rectangular), double O-rings, a natural finish that appears to be HAIII, and machining is very good to excellent.

They both have DEEP OP reflectors and that make a TIGHT Beam in both, but while the AA has a Cree Q5 emitter the AAA falls short and has a SSC P9 smallish emitter. When you read the measurements you will see it “handicaps” the flashlight. I would gladly spent 6 more dollars for a SSC P4!

Other features include a rather firm pocket clip that allows DEEP head down carry (this is my liking as you can see from my EDC lights). Switch can be removed from the body (but I chose not to) and it probably allows clip removal too.
BTW the AA has a positive reverse clickie switch, but the AAA has a forward one! (albeit hard to click it unless you reach deep in the well). And they both tailstand...

*The Bad*

The AA is immaculate. I would say that it is the current Rexlight!

The AAA has two things I am worried about. 
O-Ring channels are too shallow and/or the O-Rings are too thick... While testing it the foremost one was torn.
There is a dark spot right on the emitter center....Huh??? Beam is not affected though.

*More Eye Candy*































*Measurements*







So what these tables say is the Akorays are benefited from the deep reflectors. The AA is clearly above anything else and the hotspot lux are close to larger reflectors performance (RC-G2 and lower end P60 modules).

But did you see the AKOray 14500 measurement? This is totally crazy and unsafe....It is 5-10% more output to my Dreeelight 1A module!!! And the AMp draw, the Amp draw!

Te AAA with the weak emitter barely copes with my Cree P4 lights in the medium setting. It gets an edge on throw and that makes it usable as a second line backup. 

*Beamshots*







Rexlight on Medium (Eneloop)







AKOray AA on Medium (Eneloop)







Fenix L0D-CE on Medium (Ni-Mh)







AKOray AAA (Ni-Mh)

So here you have it....The choice is yours...

Enjoy, Kostas


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## Derek Dean

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Great review Kostas! Excellent 'eye candy' as well. Thanks for taking the time to post your observations and thoughts on these lights.


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## StarHalo

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Yikes, a 3.5 Amp draw from a Li-Ion?! Sure hope the LiMn 14500 is released soon..

I estimate/extrapolate your lightbox number to equal *330* emitter lumens oo:


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## cheetokhan

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Your AA model is broken. Mine only draws about 700ma from a 14500 cell.
Mine is the newer programmable model.


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## genotypic

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Nice review and showroom quality pics! I'm just a bit surprised by the amp draw. 

Is the AA flashlight that you've tested the earlier 5 mode or the 3 mode programmable one?

I've got the 3 mode AA from DX and love the programming versatility of the light.


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## substance

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

I found an Akoray AAA at the below website. They are claiming that it has a rebel instead of a SSC emitter and is 20 lumens brighter. Can anyone confirm this?

http://www.szwholesale.com/akoray-k102-rebel-80lumen-1mode-flashlightfrk102-p-2262.html


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## gt5oh

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

how many lumens would you say these lights are?


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## oronocova

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

I just got my AAA version today from DX. I agree with basically all you said. Mine didn't have the dark spot on the emitter. I'd estimate the output (NiMH)to be maybe half that of my Fenix T1 on Medium, so... 30-40ish lumens? Certainly useable but it won't impress anyone (at least anyone on here.) The finish/construction is awesome like you said. My O-Rings seemed to slide easily after I added some grease.

The worst thing... the switch. Would be better off as a twisty IMO. I can press it easily with my... pinky, impossible with my thumb. Pretty much a two handed operation. I can live with it, others probably wouldn't.

I didn't notice the AA model or I wouldn't have ordered the Ultrafire A10 (sku:19187)... I like the clip on these Akorays! Oh well, next time I guess.


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## Flying Turtle

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Nice review, Kostas. Thanks. And I was thinking I had enough 1AA lights for now.

Geoff


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## alfchan

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Good review. Just curious to know if the AKOray light engine is dimensionally compatible with the Rexlight body? Thanks.


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## Cemoi

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Hello Kostas,

Thanks for the review and pics.


kosPap said:


> the AAA falls short and has a SSC P9 smallish emitter. When you read the measurements you will see it “handicaps” the flashlight. I would gladly spent 6 more dollars for a SSC P4!



I have the AAA version on its way from Hong Kong, but I'm less impatient now after reading your lukewarm comments.

Do you think the emitter can be easily replaced with a better one?


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## gunga

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



Cemoi said:


> Hello Kostas,
> 
> Thanks for the review and pics.
> 
> 
> I have the AAA version on its way from Hong Kong, but I'm less impatient now after reading your lukewarm comments.
> 
> Do you think the emitter can be easily replaced with a better one?


 

Yes, would an emitter swap work? Nice construction for the price, tho that little clicky seems next to impossible to use!


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## kosPap

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Collective reply to all....

On the AA:

After reading the first replies form fellow members it has come to my attention that there are more versions of this flashlight. Mine is the 65-mode version (very high, high, LOW, strobe, 2 fluter beacon, SOS). No do you want me spent more money on the programmable mode?)

I do not intend to make any changes to ir cos the flashlight has been taken away by me by friend....From what I remeber it seems it is not easy to remove the pill...

On the AAA:

Indeed the AAA switch is a bear to click...There in NO way to make it with gloved hands...

Regarding emmiter swap I do not know. One has to take advantage the reflector compatibility and the miniscule LED dimensions...

On the lumens I can't really say...I do like the beam shape...The fl;ashlight was purchased to be included in a. EDC survival pack and act as backup to my EDC light....I do like the tight beam, the reasonable draw and output is still practical...

Glad you liked the review guys, Kostas


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## [email protected]

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Mmmmm... nice comparison/review, I really could use a new AA EDC :thumbsup:


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## Zefiryn

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



kosPap said:


> I do like the tight beam, the reasonable draw and output is still practical...



Hi Kostas, nice review,, thanx 

can You please be so kind and try to make battery draw figures again , I suspect Your DMM doesnt work properly, number are way to low IMHO. First try to remove factory cables, and use two pieces of copper wires instead, 

here some 1xAA readings I got:

REX 2.1 Cree Q2: 1800mA 1400lux/1m
Ultrafire C3 Cree Q5 1600mA 1800lux/1m
Ultrafire C3 R2 7880 driver mod 2500mA 3600lux/1m
Nitecore D10 Cree Q5 1500mA 1900lux/1m
Akoray K106 Cree Q5 1800mA 1700lux/1m


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## Cemoi

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Kostas: any runtime figures?


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## genotypic

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

This might sound like a totally noobish question, how do u guys measure the current draw?


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## cheetokhan

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



genotypic said:


> This might sound like a totally noobish question, how do u guys measure the current draw?



On these lights it's pretty easy. I unscrewed the tailswitch assembly, exposing the negative end of the battery. Then just press one lead from the ammeter against the battery and the other lead against the exposed threads in the end of the tube. To switch levels, just tap the lead against the threads.


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## Hrvoje

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Great review, Kostas. One thing, looks like you swapped current draw for Akoray K-102. My measurement are almost identical to yours, except draw is lesser from 10440 lithium then from NiMh (0.28 A from lithium, 0.38 A from NiMh).

Hrvoje


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## genotypic

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Thanks cheetokhan, that did the trick! 

For the K-106, I was able to get readings for the custom low and medium modes, but not the high cuz my meter would only go up to 200mA.

Running on fresh 14500s, it lasted 41min on high till the overdischarge protection lowered it to medium.

On the lowest setting it ran for more than 10 hours before I turned it off.


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## Element of Darkness

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Kostas,

Thanks for your review. Does the 1xAA Akoray (DX sku 16607) have the last mode memory feature? Example: you turn it off on low, it turns back on in low, or you turn it off on high, it turns back on in high? I hope so. 

And just to double check since there are a few different versions of this light floating around; Yours is the new 3 mode programmable, correct? The answer seems obvious from your measurements chart (high, med, low), but I thought I'd ask for clarification.

Thanks,

EoD

P.S. Does anyone know of a forward clicky that fits the DX 16607?


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## Benson

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

I have the AAA with me, and the AA on order. Looking forward to the AA even more now, thanks for the review!

I was quite pleased with the beam quality on the AAA, while the brightness was no worse than expected. (I would like better, though, and am thinking of modding it at some point -- maybe an XP-E would work...)

But what some people seem to not like was its greatest feature for me: a fully recessed forward clickie! Tailstanding is _very_ nice, and the button doesn't interfere with my use of the light. It is almost impossible to click with my thumb, but that wasn't a problem, as I can't hold a light this size in a regular dagger-grip like my EDC anyway. I normally grip 1xAAA (and smaller) lights in an almost pencil-like manner, between my thumb and middle+ring fingers, which lets me click the button with the tip of my index finger. That said, I haven't tried with gloves; they probably make it even more difficult to switch the light on than to not drop it...

I've measured runtime with a DX 10440 (labelled 600mAh, but more like 400mAh), and got *50 minutes*. Comparatively, brightness dropped from 710 lux to 700 lux in 2 minutes (warm-up), and rolled off fairly smoothly from there to 650 lux at 50 minutes, so total of *8% brightness falloff* sitting on a piece of styrofoam (or tailstanding), pesumably a bit less if you hold it in your hand. (I measured brightness in the hotspot, at 3 feet, but alignment and range weren't controlled well enough to consider these useful as absolute measurements.)


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## led4me

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

The review says "tight beam". Can anyone tell me how the beam size (center spot and overall spill) compares to either Rexlight or Fenix L1d? Thanks.


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## Element of Darkness

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Here's the answer to the mode memory question I had:

"IMO, the memory function is implemented correctly in this model. The mode is memorized as soon as you switched mode. You don't have to leave it on for a few seconds like some other lights that I have. One complaint that I have is that it will turn on in the next mode if you do so within 4 seconds after you turn it off. I think they should lower this "wait time" to 1 second instead of 4 seconds. This will not happen in most use cases, but could be annoying when it does, especially if it turns on in the strobe mode."

Post #369 here https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/209354&page=13 

I'm still curious if there's a compatible forward clicky out there.


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## toby_pra

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Nice review....:tinfoil:


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## nuron

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

What is the runtime and brightness differences between the Cree and the SSC versions?


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## kosPap

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

all, I have updated the graph with new AAA measurements....(including AA alkaline)

Trying to AAAs beam i would say it is one of the tightest I have seen in a pocket flashlight...I regreted not getting -2 stop shots cos the regular exposure ones wash out the hotspot....

You see the beam has 2 sectors....the spill, a sector of L0D like hotspot on low, and an intense hotspot that is small.

This is why I mentioned deep reflector benefits (and is coupled with a tiny light source which works exactly the opposite to the P7 LED)

Regarding the AA version's beam the measuements tell the story (see hotspot column)...Appearance is the same to the AAA but I cannot remember it to describe accurately.

BENSON
you persuaded me to make a runtime test when I return from my trip thsi weekend....
I agrre in all you comments...

till sunday, chiao


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## oronocova

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

I was able to swap out the uf A10 I had ordered for the AkoRay AA version. I didn't realize you could do that with an order from DX, but seeing as usually your order just sits there for a few days before shipping I guess it makes "sense." Looking forward to it, I hope the quality is the same/similar to the AAA I have.

The AAA version I have seems slightly brighter on 10440 than an Eneloop. NiMH was definetly brighter than the only Alkaline AAA I had (unsure of it's state.) Looks like the AA version is much brighter on 14500 than NiMH or Alkaline.

A compatible forward clicky would be interesting...


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## Fallingwater

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

I'm in the process of writing an extensive review of the Akoray K-106 (the AA version). There's something wrong either in your light or in your 14500; mine draws slightly less than 500mA at full power. 3.5 amps is just crazy.

Edit: my version is the three-mode programmable. I didn't think there were others, I just assumed DX had screwed up the product page. So yours isn't programmable at all? It does nothing if you soft-press five times quickly?


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## Hoggy

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



Fallingwater said:


> So yours isn't programmable at all? It does nothing if you soft-press five times quickly?



I thought it was 6 times for entering programming mode?? Does 5 actually actually work then?

I'm also wondering what is happening with 3-time tapping..
The light will alternately blink once or twice as if signaling a toggle-state or something, but what? Battery over-discharge protection??
And if so, does anybody know which voltage it shuts off at?

Has anybody been able to find out if the light offers a voltage reading capability?

I really LOVE this light! :thumbsup:


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## Element of Darkness

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



Hoggy said:


> I'm also wondering what is happening with 3-time tapping..
> The light will alternately blink once or twice as if signaling a toggle-state or something, but what? Battery over-discharge protection??
> And if so, does anybody know which voltage it shuts off at?


 
There is a review from 2/15/09 by user name "frills" on the DX site that says, "Selectable discharge cutoff protection for li-ion cells.", but there's no mention of voltage. HTH.


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## Fallingwater

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



Hoggy said:


> I thought it was 6 times for entering programming mode?? Does 5 actually actually work then?


Mine starts programming mode with five soft-presses.



> I'm also wondering what is happening with 3-time tapping..
> The light will alternately blink once or twice as if signaling a toggle-state or something, but what? Battery over-discharge protection??


Yes. It flashes twice for protection on, once for protection off.



> And if so, does anybody know which voltage it shuts off at?


At full power it gets dimmer at 2.8V, then shuts off at 2.7V.
At medium and low power it just shuts off at 2.7V.



> Has anybody been able to find out if the light offers a voltage reading capability?


Haven't tried. What do you suggest? Random numbers of soft-presses?


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## Hoggy

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



Element of Darkness said:


> There is a review from 2/15/09 by user name "frills" on the DX site that says, "Selectable discharge cutoff protection for li-ion cells.", but there's no mention of voltage. HTH.



Ooops, I should of reread the site as well as the forum topics there.  One person said that 1 flash means protection is off and 2 flashes mean it's on. No one confirmed though whether or not that is indeed the case here(as in 1=off, 2=on - or the other way around). Probably is correct, but who knows..

Does anyone know whether this should work for NiMH's too? And at what voltage?


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## Hoggy

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



Hoggy said:


> Does anyone know whether this should work for NiMH's too? And at what voltage?



Think I might have answered my own question here.
I turned it on with a pretty fresh ROV Hybrid. Within a few seconds, it switched to a lower brightness and started blinking 2 times every 10 seconds.

And YES - 2 blinks means on, 1 blink means off. CONFIRMED.

So, guess it doesn't work for NiMH's. That really sucks. :shakehead

Oh well, I still like this light - guess I'll just have to be careful not to run them down too low.


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## Fallingwater

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



Hoggy said:


> Ooops, I should of reread the site as well as the forum topics there.  One person said that 1 flash means protection is off and 2 flashes mean it's on. No one confirmed though whether or not that is indeed the case here(as in 1=off, 2=on - or the other way around). Probably is correct, but who knows..


Confirmed here too.

I also confirm the dim-plus-flashing mode when running off a NiMH with protection on. It obviously works fine if I turn protection off.

By the way, has anyone figured out how to remove the deity-damned belt clip from the light? I never use clips, and I'd very much like to fit a lanyard in its place, but I can't get the tailcap unscrewed. I imagine I could do it with tools, but I'd rather not ruin the finish.


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## cheetokhan

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



Fallingwater said:


> By the way, has anyone figured out how to remove the deity-damned belt clip from the light? I never use clips, and I'd very much like to fit a lanyard in its place, but I can't get the tailcap unscrewed. I imagine I could do it with tools, but I'd rather not ruin the finish.



Mine comes off easily. I flipped over my mousepad so the rubbery surface was facing up then pressed the tail of the light against the pad and just unscrewed it.


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## Fallingwater

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

I have a request. Owners of the programmable Akoray 1xAA, please start programming mode and program like this:

mode 1 - softpress before it starts ramping to get lowest low
mode 2 - program somewhere in the middle
mode 3 - wait until the ramping process is over and the light goes dark, then switch off before it starts the various flashing and strobe stuff

Check that it works right. If it does, repeat a few times.

This should program mode 3 with maximum power, but in my light it doesn't always do that. Occasionally it screws up, and sets the three modes to something completely random (one mode gets programmed to a random strobe), and then does weird things like refusing to accept programming, or insisting to program mode 1 several times in succession. It always gets unstuck eventually, usually after two to four programming cycles.


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## cheetokhan

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



Fallingwater said:


> I have a request. Owners of the programmable Akoray 1xAA, please start programming mode and program like this:
> 
> mode 1 - softpress before it starts ramping to get lowest low
> mode 2 - program somewhere in the middle
> mode 3 - wait until the ramping process is over and the light goes dark, then switch off before it starts the various flashing and strobe stuff
> 
> Check that it works right. If it does, repeat a few times.



The instructions you posted for Mode 1 and Mode 3 do not work on my light. If I soft press before the light starts ramping, or if I soft press immediately after the light ramps all the way up, then goes dark, my results seem random.
I have mine programmed for low, mid, high, but to get low I had to press quick *after* the ramping started, so it is not the lowest possible setting, and to get high, I have to press *before* the ramping ends and it goes dark, so I do not have the highest possible setting either.


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## Fallingwater

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Huh, weird. It appears there's more than one programmable firmware revision out there... mine occasionally screws up when I do that to get high mode (emphasis on "occasionally"; when it doesn't screw up it gives me maximum power), but never does when I softpress before it starts ramping to get super-low.
When did you order yours?


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## cheetokhan

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Ordered on 1/19/2009, but DX didn't ship it till about 3 weeks later, which is about average for my orders from DX.


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## Hoggy

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



cheetokhan said:


> Ordered on 1/19/2009, but DX didn't ship it till about 3 weeks later, which is about average for my orders from DX.



I ordered on the same date, and it didn't get shipped until over 3 weeks later. I found that it was because of Chinese New Year.

This was my first order from DX, so I don't have a 'norm' yet.
Considering their prices, a longer wait is not unacceptable to me.
I just hope they had a good Chinese New Year - or do they simply call it 'New Years' in that part of the world? :shrug:


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## kosPap

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Well after sometime here is a runtime graph of the AKOray AAA flashlight using a generic alkaline battery. (Please do not ask me to repeat it with another battery...Since I did not use a datalogging lightmeter it took me 2 nights watching TV)

For comparison I tested a Tank 007 SSC flashlight. VERY different output profile!








errata! just now noticed that the "possible reason for output variance" in the graph should go to the Tank's note line....

In retrospect. I now like the little AKOray more! For 9 dollars you get a robust flashlight with a low output on par with similar flashlights, almost 3 hours of useful runtime, and a MUCH better beam profile (a very consecrated hotspot). It is the ideal flashlight to be placed in any Survival or First Aid Kit, precisely the reason I bought it.

Now can anyone put a Rebel 100 in there???


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## Superorb

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

Awesome thread, love hearing more about this light. Can anyone confirm if it has an HAIII finish on it?


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## Cemoi

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



kosPap said:


> Now can anyone put a Rebel 100 in there??



eprom managed to put a Cree XP-E R2.


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## kosPap

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

indeed and with a lot of labor, and i have saved the thread for my future reference if......

But you see the beam has changed SO much....For the purpose of I have kept the flashlight I want it tight! So I am waiting for a rebel mod....
YMMV, Kostas


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## oronocova

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*

As far as the HAIII, I don't know how to tell... but I did accidentally drop mine(AAA) last night ~4' onto concrete. It denteed the edge of the front bezel but did not mar the coating. So I would say it is pretty tough, not that I usually care about the coating... The grade of Al obviously isn't that tough seeing as it dented so easily, but it still works fine.


Now, the reason I dropped it is because I was looking at how it had... came apart?? Apparently the reflector/LED/Driver are just press fitted against the lens, mine had worked loose a good 3/16" and rattled. Using the battery I was able to tighten/loosen the body and press it back against the lens. Just wondering if anyone else had this problem? I wonder if the AA is the same?


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## STi

I ordered the cr123a 3 mode version from KD last night....Somebody needs to freeze my paypal account! My girl is wondering why i need so many flashlights!

Will be interesting to see which one is brighter..the Akoray 109,ultrafire a1, Romisen rc-c3 or MY problem child Dereelight C2H which is very bright! All have Q5 except the C2H which is R2. My guess is i won't get the damn thing till fall! lol


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## Sadsack

Just wondering if anybody has modded the AA version with Q3-5A yet? :wave:


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## tbenedict

Looks like the AAA is backordered on DX.


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## NonSenCe

and if they take a month to send one normally that is said to be shipped in 1-3 days, i wouldnt dare to think how long it might take them to get one that they say is backordered!

aaa light interests me because the extra 18 aaa´s i just got.


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## kosPap

tbenedict said:


> Looks like the AAA is backordered on DX.


 
can't be found in Kaidomain???? the past few months I have good luck with the regarding times and quality advertised....


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## Hoggy

tbenedict said:


> Looks like the AAA is backordered on DX.



ehh.. I'm not so impressed with the k-102.

The forward-clickie on it is VERY hard to access and push. I would not order another.

The K-106(AA) still seems to be great though.


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## tbenedict

Hoggy said:


> ehh.. I'm not so impressed with the k-102.
> 
> The forward-clickie on it is VERY hard to access and push. I would not order another.
> 
> The K-106(AA) still seems to be great though.


 
Is there a better AAA light in that price range with a clicky? I had already placed an order, but I guess I can cancel it.


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## radar45

Hi, Great review. I received my AKOray AA k106 about a week ago. I orderd it from the DX website. Its only has 3 modes, I have played with the programing and it has High, low and strobe. Its is much brighter with LC 14500 battery, but today it switch off so I installed a AA and it was then ok. So I recharged the LC 14500 and its is now fine. The light is well made and good value but a bit hard on batteries, at least the are rechargeable.

Regards radar45 :ironic:
Albany, Western Australia


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## jag-engr

STi said:


> I ordered the cr123a 3 mode version from KD last night....


 
Are you sure that the CR123 version is a three-mode? It was my understanding that it was a six-mode, non-programmable.


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## kosPap

well KD lists 

a 3-mode AA that has "infinite brightness adjustment" - *AKOray K-106 DC*
a 3-mode CR123 that has "infinite brightness adjustment" - *AKOray K-109 DC*
*PDC AK-16* that seems to fit all batteries
CREE Q3 Mode 6 Flashlight AA-14500
CREE Q3 Mode 6 Flashlight CR123

But there is no telling if there are more versions...

BTW does anyone care to make an ebay search for versions of this flashlight???


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## alfchan

kosPap said:


> well KD lists
> 
> a 3-mode AA that has "infinite brightness adjustment" - *AKOray K-106 DC*
> a 3-mode CR123 that has "infinite brightness adjustment" - *AKOray K-109 DC*
> *PDC AK-16* that seems to fit all batteries
> CREE Q3 Mode 6 Flashlight AA-14500
> CREE Q3 Mode 6 Flashlight CR123
> 
> But there is no telling if there are more versions...
> 
> BTW does anyone care to make an ebay search for versions of this flashlight???



Couldn't find any Akoray lights in ebay, but there are two models made by Spiderfire that looked like rebranded Akoray. 

Spiderfire C11 - 6 modes light that uses AA/14500

Spiderfire C12 - 3 modes light (with IBS) that uses AA/14500


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## vali

tbenedict said:


> Is there a better AAA light in that price range with a clicky? I had already placed an order, but I guess I can cancel it.



Dont get a Tank TK-702. Both cost the same but side by side they are in different leagues (IMHO). The Tank feels cheap in comparison. The runtime is awful and is not that bright, plus the beam shape is as bad as a cheap incan. The clicky is flimsy and I dont think the tail is waterproff. The one I got is advertised as a P4, but the emitter has only 2 wires and looks exactly the same as a RC-G2 (P2).

The only advantages against the Akoray are the keychain hole (but I think for a cheap keychain you should get a Fenix E01, or a non cheap LD01) and the beam colour (mine is so orange it seems an incan). 

There is a SSC version, but ppl started to complain about some recently changes.


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## Cemoi

Hoggy said:


> I'm not so impressed with the k-102.
> The forward-clickie on it is VERY hard to access and push.



When I received mine, the switch worked only as a temporary switch (i.e. partially depressed). Any further action (fully depressed = locked switch) resulted in either flickering light or no light at all.
So I took the whole tail apart, put some Deoxit inside the switch and on all contacts, and reassembled it.
Now the switch works properly, and is slightly less hard to push, but still no way to fully depress it other than using a fingernail. I think the issue is that it is too recessed WRT the tail. If it was 2mm longer tailstanding would still be possible, and the light would be easier to switch on.

Apart from this hard to push switch (and a slightly too cold beam colour), I am quite satisfied with this light:

good balance between runtime (3 hours with NiMH) and brightness
looks very sturdy
clip can be removed and easily replaced with a lanyard
very good machining quality: smooth threads, nice outside finish
Well worth its price IMHO. If someone finds a way to improve the switch it will be even better.


----------



## xcnick

Here is what I found

AA lith pulled 2 amp on high
AA Ace hardware cheep pulled 2 amp and sank to 1.8
AA rayovac cheep and maybe old pulled 1.1
14500 ultrafire (sku 6240) 1.15 amp and ran 23 min on high (got uncomfortably hot)

I am new to this and bought 6240 just because it was the most expensive. I read here the trustfire 3435 ran twice as long on high so I wonder if that isn’t a better battery? A search didn’t pull up any reviews of these batteries like the nice review of AA batteries. Anybody have a definitive conclusion on which 14500 battery is best?


----------



## Superorb

xcnick said:


> Here is what I found
> 
> AA lith pulled 2 amp on high
> AA Ace hardware cheep pulled 2 amp and sank to 1.8
> AA rayovac cheep and maybe old pulled 1.1
> 14500 ultrafire (sku 6240) 1.15 amp and ran 23 min on high (got uncomfortably hot)
> 
> I am new to this and bought 6240 just because it was the most expensive. I read here the trustfire 3435 ran twice as long on high so I wonder if that isn’t a better battery? A search didn’t pull up any reviews of these batteries like the nice review of AA batteries. Anybody have a definitive conclusion on which 14500 battery is best?


Probably best to ask that question in the Battery forum


----------



## xcnick

sorry about that. I am not worried about getting myself a good battery until I decide what to use long term, just trying to let the reader know what I used. My light also says K-105 rather than 106 if that means anything.

This is my first DX / KD light. I had high expectations from Shiningbeam, Lighthound.and Batteryjunction and they more then met them. But there is something fun about finding out about a light like this one, which is so misrepresented by those selling them. I had low expectations, but the light is very nice and my curiosity is even greater now.

kosPop appears to have the entire fleet. Maybe you can answer this question. The PDC AK-16 table of “facts” says: 3.7V~770mA,4.2V~610mA, in contrast to the 106 and 109 which say: 3.7V~1360mA,4.2V~1110mA, (KD web site) Does the AK-16 produce less light? Can the AK-16 use a AA primary 1.5 volt? My guess would be all three have the same guts. 

I am new to this and have yet to make anything go poof. I figure it is time to try. My first idea for a mod is to bore out the AK-16 to accept a 17500 battery. However if it is not the same guts as this very nice 106 (105 in my case) it may not be worth it.


----------



## kosPap

sorry but I do not have the fleet....

I just listed the links to the KD available for reference...sorry


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## xcnick

Maybe a Juplin has them all. He offered this link: http://my3c.com/D5/viewthread.php?ti...=8825#pid53116 which showed a picture of them in the thread LF3XT vs. UltraFire A1 from a noobie perspective! (LOTS OF PICTURES!). Must… find… answers.

Facts I would change at the KD site about the K-106:

Low/High/Strobe + Infinite Brightness Adjustment to:
3 Programmable modes, choice of 6. Infinite Brightness, 100%, Slow Flash, Fast Flash, Strobe (variable), SOSOS.

Lumen / Runtime 230/120min. Don’t know about the Lumen, but 120 min. at high doesn’t seem possible.

Battery Type：1*14550 Battery to:
Battery Type：1*14550 Battery/AA alkaline/AA niMh/AA lithium primary

Voltage input range" (3.7V~4.2V) to: (0.7V to 4.5V)

[FONT=&quot]Hope this helps someone. You all have helped me.[/FONT]


----------



## MikieHead

I just tried to order the AAA AKOray from Kaidomain and althought the order page says ships in 1-3 days, AFTER you place the order it shows BackOrdered!!! 

I immediately asked for a refund, but have not heard back yet.

Has any had recent experience with Kaidomain and this light??

Has anyone ordered from DX recently??
THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## kenzo

I've just received the AA version and this is THE standard all budget lights should at least be.
If akoray can do this for $20 then i dont see why others cant.
Its awesome. Ordered a few variations (AK16), and cant wait for my Q3 5as to get here.


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## tbenedict

MikieHead said:


> I just tried to order the AAA AKOray from Kaidomain and althought the order page says ships in 1-3 days, AFTER you place the order it shows BackOrdered!!!
> 
> I immediately asked for a refund, but have not heard back yet.
> 
> Has any had recent experience with Kaidomain and this light??
> 
> Has anyone ordered from DX recently??
> THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!


 
I thought mine just shipped from DX, but looking, it says pending as a second shipment. Not sure if they actually have them in stock or not.


----------



## TORCH_BOY

tbenedict said:


> Mine just shipped, they are back is stock.



???


----------



## MikieHead

tbenedict said:


> I thought mine just shipped from DX, but looking, it says pending as a second shipment. Not sure if they actually have them in stock or not.



Jerry responded that it is just one day before they will be in stock and asked if I still wanted to cancel my order.... SO emailed them back that I would wait a day or two.......

Hopefully it is just how thier system works.... It says 1-3 days to ship, so it should not repsond BACKORDERED when you place the order....

I guess only a day or two will tell!!!!!! LOL!!!! 
Thanks!!!!!!!!!


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## Sadsack

Just modded my Akoray AA 106 with a Q3-5A emitter. I'm liking this little light more and more all the time.


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## xcnick

Can you explain more about this mod for a newbie. What and where to buy and how to do?

thanks


----------



## alfchan

Sadsack said:


> Just modded my Akoray AA 106 with a Q3-5A emitter. I'm liking this little light more and more all the time.



I just received my shipment today from DX but find the switch rather stiff. The switch sits deep inside the tailcap which make pressing it a bit awkward. After switching the light on and off a couple of times to program it, my thumb starts hurting. 

Also have a look at the pill but don't see any hole on it where I could unscrew it with my plier. Sadsack, do I need to drill hole on the pill to unscrew it or can I just grab on the golden bit at the centre and turn it loose? Thanks.


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## bltkmt

After seeing this thread I ordered 2 of the AAA version from DX and received them yesterday. I must say the quality on these little lights is pretty impressive for the price! However, the clicky on mine are not recessed as you seem to indicate, and therefore cannot tailstand. On the plus side, the switch is therefore very easy to operate, similar to the Microstream.


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## oronocova

Weird. That's one major drawback to the cheaper lights IMO. They seem to change designs completely at random and the retailers make no note of this generally.


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## Superorb

bltkmt said:


> After seeing this thread I ordered 2 of the AAA version from DX and received them yesterday. I must say the quality on these little lights is pretty impressive for the price! However, the clicky on mine are not recessed as you seem to indicate, and therefore cannot tailstand. On the plus side, the switch is therefore very easy to operate, similar to the Microstream.


The AA version switch is recessed and hard to press. You have the AAA version


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## bltkmt

Superorb said:


> The AA version switch is recessed and hard to press. You have the AAA version


 
In your pictures, the AAA version has a recessed switch as well, and can tail stand. My switch protrudes quite a bit (making it easy to click) and cannot tailstand.


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## vali

The switch of the K-102 I had (and gave as a present to my father) was recessed and the flashlight can tailstand easily, but a bit hard to press.


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## gunga

bltkmt said:


> In your pictures, the AAA version has a recessed switch as well, and can tail stand. My switch protrudes quite a bit (making it easy to click) and cannot tailstand.


 

CAn you post a picture of that?


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## Sadsack

alfchan said:


> I just received my shipment today from DX but find the switch rather stiff. The switch sits deep inside the tailcap which make pressing it a bit awkward. After switching the light on and off a couple of times to program it, my thumb starts hurting.
> 
> Also have a look at the pill but don't see any hole on it where I could unscrew it with my plier. Sadsack, do I need to drill hole on the pill to unscrew it or can I just grab on the golden bit at the centre and turn it loose? Thanks.


 There should be a couple of slots toward the side of the pill that you can insert tweezers into to unscrew it. When you get it out you can make a small hole with a drill into the little white plastic insert that goes around the emitter. Make the hole over toward the outside edge and then just stick a little pick or something similar in it and pry the plastic piece up and off.:wave:


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## led4me

Just got the AA from dx. Description said 6 mode but I got the 3 mode programmable that I wanted. Here are some comments based on using it with eneloop (I don't have any 14500):



1. Programmability

Setting lowest is difficult. If you click too fast, it won't change the current level (it took me a while to figure that out). If you click too slow, it starts ramping too quickly.
Setting medium is difficult. It ramps very quickly. So, most times I end up with something too close to high.
Setting max is easy. There is a flash before high. Not sure if it is because I use nimh AA, but brightness seems to level or peak half (maybe quarter?) way thru ramping. So, getting max level is way too easy.
2. Beam pattern

spill is dimmer than other AA lights that I have (I assume center spot is brighter although not that noticeable)
spill has more swirl marks? Don't see anything special from orange peel reflector or lens to cause this.
3. Brightness (don't have light meter, so these are just observations based on cieling bounce)

Highest - on very fresh battery, a little bit brighter than High on Rex 2.1 and high on fenix l0d q4.
low (not sure it is lowest) - a little bit brighter than low of Rex 2.1 and low on fenix l0d q4.
4. Regulation and run time

Poor regulation or maybe semi-regulated? Running on high, brightness dips much faster than other lights. For example, Rexlight brightness is more flat. On high, Rexlight brightness drops very suddenly around 50 minutes. The Akoray starts of brighter, then seem the same as Rex, then lower for much of the run time.
After 1 hour on high, brightness down to around medium on fenix l0d q4. After 75 minutes on high, brightness to low of fenix l0d q4.
Akoray can start up on lower voltages than other lights. The Rexlight and a Fenix had trouble starting with battery around 0.97V. The Akoray lit up immediately. It was dim but did light up.
Any one else see the same behavior for the regulation and also for the ramping maxing out so quickly? I'm wondering if using 14500 the ramping will be better.


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## tbenedict

bltkmt said:


> In your pictures, the AAA version has a recessed switch as well, and can tail stand. My switch protrudes quite a bit (making it easy to click) and cannot tailstand.


 
I just received my AAA today from dx and it protrudes as well. They must have changed them.


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## Benson

tbenedict said:


> I just received my AAA today from dx and it protrudes as well. They must have changed them.



GRRRR....

Why would they do that! I was thinking of ordering some more as gifts...

Still hoping for some pictures of the new switch (disassembled would be especially nice ).


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## tbenedict

Benson said:


> GRRRR....
> 
> Why would they do that! I was thinking of ordering some more as gifts...
> 
> Still hoping for some pictures of the new switch (disassembled would be especially nice ).


 
Tail standing would have been nice, but I would have still ordered it this way. Based on the other reviews, I would say it is easier to operate this way. The light is plenty bright on AAA (brighter than I expected).


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## BurlyEd

(begin rant) All AKOrays so far are labeled for 0.7-4.2v batteries. This sounds more like Li-Ion (3.6-4.1v) than Alkaline (1.5v) or NiMH (1.2v) to me. My K-106 benefits much more from a 14500 than my UF C3 P4, UF C3 Q5 or UF A10 does. I will not refer to these AKOrays as AA or AAAs as I feel that is inappropriate. Kaidomain refers to the "AKOray K-106 DC(0.7~4.5) CREE Q5 3-Mode Flashlight (1*14500) (S006967)". I wish DX would not confuse people by calling them AA and AAA flashlights. (end rant)

My AKOray K-106s (I have 2) are currently my favorite flashlights. They have a HIGH high and a LOW low. I am convinced that they are not HA-III after removing (and replacing) the clip on one of mine. My only problem so far is that when I disable the protection and turn power off, the protection returns after I turn the lite on again. I also wish it had a protruding GITD tail cap and a lanyard hole. I have them both programmed as minimum, low and maximum.

I just received my first AKOray K-102 10440 light (I will order others). It has a forward clicky and the tailcap protrudes about 2mm! I like this much better than the recessed switch on the K-106. The clicky is as quiet as a watch "tick". My 10440s are still on order, so I am temporarily using a Duraloop AAA. 

I also have a Tank007 TK-702. It is limited to 1.2-1.5v AAA batteries. I used to think it was pretty good, but the AKOray K-102 far outclasses it.

I have ordered an AKOray K-109A from Kaidomain and although the order page says "ships in 1-3 days", four days after my order, the status changed from BackOrdered to "Order pending-packing" (whatever THAT means). The description is "S006968 AKOray K-109A DC(0.7~4.5) CREE Q5 3-Mode Flashlight (1*16340/CR123A) $20.12". Note that this is not the same flashlight as DX's K-109.

Whatever AKOray comes out next, count me in!


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## bltkmt

gunga said:


> CAn you post a picture of that?


 
Lousy cell phone pic, but you can see:


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## bltkmt

BTW, my comments are not intended to diminish this light's value...I think these things are a huge win for only about $8 each. Built very nicely, and decent amount of light.


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## Benson

BurlyEd said:


> (begin rant) All AKOrays so far are labeled for 0.7-4.2v batteries. This sounds more like Li-Ion (3.6-4.1v) than Alkaline (1.5v) or NiMH (1.2v) to me. My K-106 benefits much more from a 14500 than my UF C3 P4, UF C3 Q5 or UF A10 does. I will not refer to these AKOrays as AA or AAAs as I feel that is inappropriate. Kaidomain refers to the "AKOray K-106 DC(0.7~4.5) CREE Q5 3-Mode Flashlight (1*14500) (S006967)". I wish DX would not confuse people by calling them AA and AAA flashlights. (end rant)


Well, I find them much more valuable than I would an equivalent flashlight that only ran on Li-ions, because it allows me to consolidate my spares (4 NiMH is more flexible than 2 NiMH and 2 Li-ion) and I can get primaries anywhere in a pinch. I'd like them to detail what you lose by going with low-voltage batteries, but their ability to use them was quite important to me.

And in the limited testing I've done, I didn't really notice the 102 being that much weaker on NiMH AAA than 10440. The 105 is much more noticeable, but I don't think even it'd be a bad flashlight on NiMH only.


----------



## utahsavages

BurlyEd said:


> (begin rant) All AKOrays so far are labeled for 0.7-4.2v batteries. This sounds more like Li-Ion (3.6-4.1v) than Alkaline (1.5v) or NiMH (1.2v) to me. My K-106 benefits much more from a 14500 than my UF C3 P4, UF C3 Q5 or UF A10 does. I will not refer to these AKOrays as AA or AAAs as I feel that is inappropriate.




I've found pretty much the same thing. I have two of them, and they are notably brighter with the 14500. I think it's nice that they're able to take AA's as a backup though, so that's not a totally useless feature IMO.


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## oronocova

Wow I like that protruding switch (fat fingers.) * If someone has one that protrudes they want to get rid of let me know, maybe even trade for one that is recessed (which I have.)*

I used my 106 on 14500 camping last weekend. Worked great. I only took one 14500 and eneloops for backup. Didn't have to change batteries anyway. It was great on low for in the tent around the site, and on high to check for eyes in the woods or just for fun. I use my 102 at work on 10440 but I think I will swap to eneloop for safetys sake (no protection.) The coating is still like new on both of them.

They are --awesome-- for the price.


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## genotypic

I couldn't find any runtimes of the Akoray AA K-106 on low posted anywhere so I thought I'd do my own test. I've always wanted to see how long it could run in it's lowest mode, but I never seem to able to program it fast enough before it starts ramping up. 

Somehow, I got lucky and timed it correctly just as the light started its ramping sequence and managed to program in the lowest possible low.

Anyway, to the test.. 

I used a freshly charged Trustfire protected 14500 with a voltage of 4.18V for the test, and the initial current draw was 11mA. I haven't got a lux meter so I can't tell what the output was. To my untrained eye it seemed like maybe 3 lumens.

Amazingly, the light ran for *59 hours* before the voltage of the battery dropped to 3.59V and I stopped the test. It was a pleasant surprise as I certainly didn't expect it to last so long. I didn't notice any visible dimming of the light, but it would be hard to tell at that level.


Just to add a bit on led4me's review, I think the light's regulation is better using 14500s, and with much higher output too. It also tends to get quite warm so handholding might help as well. 

I think I've said it before, but it's a really great light for its price! :twothumbs


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## islw2863

*FWIW AKOray AA current draw on high*

I got one of these AA flashlights from DX a week ago and I love it for my primary edc.

The above posts made me concerned for how much the little torch draws on high so I measured my unit:

1.96 amps on high with 14500 from DX also.


:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs


----------



## led4me

*Re: FWIW AKOray AA current draw on high*



islw2863 said:


> The above posts made me concerned for how much the little torch draws on high so I measured my unit:
> 
> 1.96 amps on high with 14500 from DX also.


 
I thought safe current draw from 14500 is 2C :thinking:. So, 0.900 * 2 = 1.8 amp if capacity is correct. 

For DX SKU 3435 (Trustfire 14500), it says max discharge 1.5C, so that would be .9 * 1.5 = 1.35 amp.

There's also Trustfire 14500 (SKU 19626), which looks the same but is cheaper with less description  These are also 900mah capacity so probably same max discharge. (Off topic, but anyone know the difference between the two trustfire 14500s?)

I don't have 14500 yet, but may in the future. So, does the AA model draw too much at max for 14500 and would it be better (safer and longer lasting battery) to set it a bit lower than the max?


----------



## Benson

*Re: FWIW AKOray AA current draw on high*



led4me said:


> I thought safe current draw from 14500 is 2C :thinking:. So, 0.900 * 2 = 1.8 amp if capacity is correct.
> 
> For DX SKU 3435 (Trustfire 14500), it says max discharge 1.5C, so that would be .9 * 1.5 = 1.35 amp.
> 
> There's also Trustfire 14500 (SKU 19626), which looks the same but is cheaper with less description  These are also 900mah capacity so probably same max discharge. (Off topic, but anyone know the difference between the two trustfire 14500s?)
> 
> I don't have 14500 yet, but may in the future. So, does the AA model draw too much at max for 14500 and would it be better (safer and longer lasting battery) to set it a bit lower than the max?


Yes, technically that's between a little and a good bit over specs (depending on your battery's rating). Probably not a significant safety issue (especially considering that you're unlikely to leave it continuously running on high for any length of time), but it will shorten the life of the cells somewhat.

The defective unit pulling 3.5A is much more dangerous and abusive, but even that is far from a guaranteed  -- I've seen one guy bragging about his light pulling 3.8A from a 14500, and he's been running it that way for months with no problem (so far...). I don't like that sort of risk, though.


----------



## xcnick

1.1 amp is what I got on a fresh battery. Of course the draw goes up as the volts go down. I bought both the trustfire and ultafire 14500 protected. The trustfire ran 7 min. longer on high. (28 vs. 21) I did do some bad things with the batteries which did show a bigger difference. I ran them in series in a an RC mini motorcycle. The ultrafire's protection would not let this work, however the trustfire's protection only kick on once in a while. Nothing went  I wonder if the protection on the ultrafire is better or worse in light.

Are we sure the KD 109A and the DX 109 are not the same light?


----------



## BurlyEd

xcnick said:


> Are we sure the KD 109A and the DX 109 are not the same light?



There are several confirmations that the DX 109 has 6 fixed modes and is not programmable.

KD claims that their 109A is a "3-Mode Flashlight" with "Infinite Brightness Adjustment". But they also claim to "*ship right away".* 

I ordered one on 4/2, Status is still: "Order pending-packing". ?  I will report here if KD ever "*ship right away" *it. 

After using the K-102 with a AAA for a day, I like it better than I thought I would. It makes a great shirt pocket light and it is brighter than a Fenix E01. I am still waiting for my 10440 order, but so far I am happy using the K-102 with AAA's.

:tsk::drunk:


----------



## xcnick

Let us see if I can put up a picture. 






Changed the clip to one off a Maglite so I can do the red neck headlamp. It is the size of the head so it does not scratch when unscrewing the head.
The legs are part of a Nite Ize Friends.
The holster is the DX thing.

I realize I have uglied it up some, but it has been hard at work since I received it.

The only thing I have to compare it to is the RC-G2 Q5. With an AA the G2 has more throw, but with the 14500 in the 105 the 105 has more throw.


----------



## romteb

HI guys.

I have both the AK-16 and K-106, ordered at Kaidomain, they both have the same programmable UI.

The AK-16 is the version that accepts both AA and CR123A formats.

They are virtually the same lights, with the same internals, and have the same output, they also apparently share the same reflector and are very similar in size the K-106 being a bit longer by 2mm and only 1mm shorter in diameter.

The surface finish of the machining is excellent on both, but the dimensional accuracy of the machining is very bad, on the ak-16 the grooves receiving the o-rings are not deep enough, while screwing the head on the body the pressure and friction on the O-rings is therefore very high, this has already had the consequence to deteriorate the O-rings (i'll have to machine the grooves to correct the problem).

On the K106, there is a gap between the knurling on the body and the head when completely screwed on, you can see that on the pictures below, i corrected it by facing the body, thus allowing the head to seat where it should.

Pictures:

Below, you can see the gap between the head and the body knurling on the K-106












I took care of the displeasing gap by facing the body on the lathe






You can see the actual facing on youtube here and the quick deburring here


Now the head seats much closer to the knurling












I was disappointed that the K-106 wasn't much narrower than the AK-16, this is because the wall of the K-106 is almost 1mm thicker than the one on the AK-16, this was very surprising given that i owned the 6 modes non programmable version of the K-106, and it was much thinner than the programmable version, the form factor was excellent, but the 6 modes were a pain in the ..., i hated it, and was in fact relieved when i lost it in the park playing with my dog. :laughing:

AK-16





K-106






Other than the shortcomings regarding the accuracy of the machining, i love these lights, the UI is great, they have a mod that protects batteries against overdischarge, and are very bright.

One thing that worries me though, is the fact that they consume 1,8A on high with 14500 or 16340, while advertised as 900mAh, these batteries are much closer to 600mAh, the discharge rate is therefore 3C when on high :duh2:


----------



## xcnick

Any chance the AK-16 will take a 17500?


----------



## romteb

The ID of mine mesures 17.3mm, i suppose that fitting a 17500 would be possible after removing the white plastic sleeves for centering the AA size batteries both in the head and the bottom of body.

You can see the head sleeve below:


----------



## FurrBear

Wow - I'd love a light that could run on either a CR123 or an AA! I see on the KD product page they say it will work with an alkaline or NiMH cell - have you tried that? Is it actually useful that way, or is it one of those "Well, it works - BUT" sort of situations?


----------



## romteb

It's one of those it work perfecly but way dimmer on NiMH situation, i didn't have a chance to try it with alcaline, i don't have any.

Here is a beamshot with Li-ion on the left and NiMH on the right.







The light is very bright and gets hot very quickly on high with a li-ion

Edit: That picture was taken with the lights 3 meters away from the wall, to give some perspective the black thing on the bottom is the frame of a 42 inches tv


----------



## xcnick

I would like romteb's lathe. I bet he has a mill too which would be handy.

He said it was the same as the 106 and it does run on all alkaline, NmHd, and Lithium primaries as well as the 14500. But it does not have great output.

When mine arrives I will try the 17500. Bright, good run time, small package as well as all the above power sources. Just waiting on the mail.


----------



## romteb

A quick update, i never tried it on high more than for a few seconds, i just did, and on li-ion it becomes too hot to hold after only 2 or 3 minutes


----------



## FurrBear

romteb said:


> It's one of those it work perfecly but way dimmer on NiMH situation, i didn't have a chance to try it with alcaline, i don't have any.
> 
> Here is a beamshot with Li-ion on the left and NiMH on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The light is very bright and gets hot very quickly on high with a li-ion
> 
> Edit: That picture was taken with the lights 3 meters away from the wall, to give some perspective the black thing on the bottom is the frame of a 42 inches tv


Thank you for the detailed answer! I expected dimmer on a lower voltage source - but it looks like it still puts out a decent amount of light. I was just thinking it would be nice to have the ability to use NiMH/Alk as an emergency backup if the lithium rechargeables were used up and/or I was out of CR123 primaries.

Just wish the mechanical construction was a bit better....


----------



## Wiggle

I think I'm going to pull the trigger on one of these. How pocketable do you owners find the AA/14500 version to be? I'm torn between the Ak-16 or the CR/RCR123 version only right now. The AK16 would be cool to have to run off AAs if the need arose but the dimensions on the 123 model look a bit more comfortable for pocket carry. And just verifying the K109a on KD is one of the models that has 3 programmable modes correct?


----------



## moviles

kosPap said:


> *Measurements*




your Measurements are wrong: 3.52 amp x 3.7v= *13*w
please read again current draw of akoray aa on high with 14500 and 
enelops with 3mm wires
my readings:
-----------------------------------1.2v------------------- 3.7v(100%battery 4.21v)

jetbeam jet 1 pro v2------------ 2.301amp ------------- 1.33amp
ultrafire c3 q5 ------------------- 2.05amp ----------------0.97amp 
ultrafire a10 ---------------------2.12amp ----------------1.35amp 
romisen rc g2 dd q5 ----------------------------- ---------1.27amp 
ultrafire c3 p7 dd-------------------------------------------3.74 amp

you must use always 3 mm wire!!!!!!!


----------



## copperfox

tbenedict said:


> Tail standing would have been nice, but I would have still ordered it this way. Based on the other reviews, I would say it is easier to operate this way. The light is plenty bright on AAA (brighter than I expected).



How would you describe the tint on your newer model (protruding switch) AKOray AAA?


----------



## bltkmt

Mine is warmer/greenish...similar to my Aeon.


----------



## copperfox

I guess that means there is some lottery to the tint. Mine is a little cooler than SXO, probably SYN... :thumbsdow.

Looks like I will buy another one to get the exposed clicky and hope for a warmer tint.


----------



## Wiggle

Another question, anyone able to open the head up and get a pic? I've got Q3 5A fever and want to do some swapping:twothumbs


----------



## Sadsack

Wiggle said:


> Another question, anyone able to open the head up and get a pic? I've got Q3 5A fever and want to do some swapping:twothumbs


 I put the Q3 5A in the AA model. See post #70 and #79. Didn't take any pics though. :wave:


----------



## kosPap

moviles said:


> your Measurements are wrong: 3.52 amp x 3.7v= *13*w
> please read again current draw of akoray aa on high with 14500 and
> enelops with 3mm wires


 

Hm but EVERY OTHER measurement I have taken is on the mark...and that ranges from quality regulated drivers to hotwires (up tp 5.5A)

So there must be something wrong with the flashlight....


----------



## romteb

Wiggle said:


> I think I'm going to pull the trigger on one of these. How pocketable do you owners find the AA/14500 version to be?



The AA version is a bit bigger than it could due to the thick walls of the body, but the clip is great, i'd rather have a light with such a clip than a thinner one with no clip falling in the bottom of my pocket.



Wiggle said:


> just verifying the K109a on KD is one of the models that has 3 programmable modes correct?



The K109 at KD is described as 3 modes, i personnaly always received a product faithfull to the description both from KD and DX.


----------



## wapkil

Wiggle said:


> Another question, anyone able to open the head up and get a pic? I've got Q3 5A fever and want to do some swapping:twothumbs



I've opened my K-106 when it died soon after arrival. It worked correctly out of the box. I played with it for a while then put it in the high mode with a Li-Ion battery inside. After two or three minutes the K106 turned itself off and stopped working. I discovered that when turned on it emits a dim glow that I could see only looking directly at the emitter in a darkened room.

I tired different batteries, clicked to change settings, shorted battery contacts, even left it untouched for two days thinking maybe some capacitor needs to discharge. Everything to no avail so I decided to disassemble the K106 to check if the problem was with the driver board or the LED.

I haven't figured out how to get to the driver board. Has anyone managed to do it?

Uncovering the LED was easy, one just needs to take out the plastic cap (and the LED board is not glued so can be taken outside):






When I had access to the LED I tried to measure the voltage on it with the light turned on. I touched the DMM test leads and the K106 blasted me with light. I have no idea what happened to the circuit but the light reset itself to the factory-set modes and started to work again. It works since then although I haven't tried again to keep it on high for longer than a minute.


----------



## wapkil

kosPap said:


> Hm but EVERY OTHER measurement I have taken is on the mark...and that ranges from quality regulated drivers to hotwires (up tp 5.5A)
> 
> So there must be something wrong with the flashlight....



I think it wasn't mentioned before but the measurement results seem to depend highly on the DMM used. I don't remember the exact values but with a DMM similar to the one pictured in the post #106, I got a 3A reading. When I used a little more expensive one, it showed 2A. On a "professional quality" DMM (5-4/5 digits, DC+AC TRMS, up to 50V 0.02%+2d DC voltage accuracy, 0.5%+10d for a 5A range) I got 1.3A. It looks like the boost/buck converter draws the current in an irregular manner that is complicated for DMMs to understand.


----------



## Wiggle

If there is PWM involved as well, the meter may not be determining the average current correctly.


----------



## kosPap

famn that can be it....no other reason that it reads incan hotwires draw correctly...

So back to the readed resistor reading!


----------



## wapkil

kosPap said:


> famn that can be it....no other reason that it reads incan hotwires draw correctly...
> 
> So back to the readed resistor reading!



I didn't mean to imply that your readings are incorrect. All I know is that at least two of my three readings were. I could hope that the one taken with my most expensive DMM was correct but I doubt that also. I saw the people in this thread getting different values for their K106s so I wanted to point out that the differences may as well be caused by the DMMs used.

It would probably be much better to measure the current directly on the LED. I think there should be no need to PWM the LED on the high mode so the measurements should be much more accurate.


----------



## xcnick

I don't have enough posts to be a flashaholic, but I think I am getting close enough to go to meetings.

The AK-16 came and the first thing I did was take it apart and dig out the dremel. It was pretty easy to put the 17500 in. I am really happy with the longer run time.

The other reason I think I need to go to the meetings is because I was happy with the power outage at work today. My enthusiasm generated some strange looks from coworkers. But immediately I had a chance to put this to work.

The only runtime information I have is to compare at medium. My medium is set where it draws .5 amp with a fresh battery. It is about the same brightness as using AA batteries on high. I went through the 17500s and 14500s at this level. The 14500s went 70 min. and the 17500s 120 min. We got back on line before I had to resort to AA batteries.


----------



## mmmflashlights

I have the 106 on order, I wonder if the walls are thick enough to open it up in a lathe to fit a 16mm or 17mm battery. Obviously a runtime of 70min vs. 120min is a significant increase. Maybe someone could measure their 106 with a caliper and list the inner diameter & the approximate diameter of the threading. My guess is that 16mm may be possible but 17mm would make the light's walls incredibly thin. If nothing else, the option to use cheap primary CR123's would be nice and at their voltage would probably be a more efficient option than AA with this circuit.


----------



## xcnick

I don't have the ID, but you can figure you would end up with over 17 mm ID in a tube that is 20.5. 1.6 mm wall at the thickest. But given the knurling and flat spot where they write their name, it would be even thinner in many spots and I think too thin. Might glow red when it get's hot. It already gets too hot as it is.

Seems like a lot of work just to get the same capacity if you bore it out to 16 mm. I am packaging my 105 as a gift, this 17500 light is much more to my liking.

the AK-16 is also a millimeter wider which makes it about 215 millimeters vs 205 for the 106 so it will fit the Fenix diffuser.:rock: The 106 is a sloppy fit. KD has a diffuser (http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=2021), but I bought mine from Lighthound. KD doesn't list the ID of theirs so if anyone knows I would be interested. It looks the same, but maybe it fits the 106.


----------



## xcnick

Another diffuser I made is just a cut up bottle cap. It is nice to get rid of the hot spot when using it in close.


----------



## mmmflashlights

xcnick thanks for the comments. You have a good point with the flat spots, I hadn't thought of those (have not received the light yet). And also the lighter body will hurt it's ability to dissipate heat somewhat. I may just have to order the KaiDomain version, I would not be surprised if DX begins carrying both models soon though. I do still like the idea of the CR123 at ~3.2V, I suspect that it will perform very well with this light. I also have one of those Fenix diffusers and if it's a perfect fit on the wider body then that's just one more reason to consider the KD version. I bought my diffuser from DX and they're all identical as far as I'm aware. 

I hope they create a very compact 18650 version of this light, it would probably be good competition for the L-mini (which I have and is a great light for the money).


----------



## highseas

i'm sorry if this has already been answered elsewhere (if so please point out or give me a quick answer), but i'm using TrustFire 14500 batteries with my AA-sized Akoray (I have the older, 6-mode, rather than the adjustable 3-mode).

I'm very pleased with the brightness! It is very noticeable--it's brighter than AA. However, when it's on High, it does get very warm. Is there any danger to the battery or to the bulb if I leave it on?


----------



## islw2863

highseas said:


> i'm sorry if this has already been answered elsewhere (if so please point out or give me a quick answer), but i'm using TrustFire 14500 batteries with my AA-sized Akoray (I have the older, 6-mode, rather than the adjustable 3-mode).
> 
> I'm very pleased with the brightness! It is very noticeable--it's brighter than AA. However, when it's on High, it does get very warm. Is there any danger to the battery or to the bulb if I leave it on?




I'm using the flashlight and batteries for a couple weeks and find the same results you do.

Regarding safety I can say I use HIGH only for a handful of minutes at a time, but I do so frequently and have not yet had any equipment failures. I really really like this flashlight. Enjoy!


----------



## highseas

thanks for responding. Glad you enjoy yours. i really like this little light too! it's bright and versatile even with 1 AA. Now with 14500 it's so bright!!


----------



## xcnick

*Re: FWIW AKOray AA current draw on high*



led4me said:


> I thought safe current draw from 14500 is 2C :thinking:. So, 0.900 * 2 = 1.8 amp if capacity is correct.
> 
> For DX SKU 3435 (Trustfire 14500), it says max discharge 1.5C, so that would be .9 * 1.5 = 1.35 amp.



I don't really understand all this 2C or 1.5C stuff, but LED4me brought up the max current of 14500 batteries a few posts back. I do know the capacity is not .9 as advertised, so the math is more like .6 * 1.5 = .9 amp. The AKOray starts out at 1.25 amp and it only goes up from there as the voltage drops so I have to think it is pushing the limits of the 14500. That said I did run on high for 20 min. with both a protected blue ultrafire and a grey unprotected trustfire and nothing went .


----------



## Cemoi

Wiggle said:


> Another question, anyone able to open the head up and get a pic?



Which model?
For the AAA, see this thread.


----------



## Cemoi

Benson said:


> Still hoping for some pictures of the new switch (disassembled would be especially nice ).



+1 for pictures.

@bltkmt and tbenedict: do you think this kind of switch can be purchased somewhere? I really like my Akoray K-102 except the very hard to press switch.


----------



## xcnick

Here are the heads of the 105 (106) in the forground and AK-16





The AK-16 had the spring pictured at top. I took this out and thinned out the plastic so the AA battery positive terminal would contact the metal. Then I cut down the sleeve that keeps the AA from rattling. However I left just enough to hold an AA, but the 17500 would contact if I added a 1.6mm magnet. Using this AW or DLG battery with no knob at the positive terminal I use 2 magnets. At the tail cap I cut away all of the sleeve, but it does not rattle. I guess the spring is pretty tight against the negative terminal. I wonder if I had left the spring and got rid of both sleeves would the AA battery rattle? If not, then I could still use a 16340. But my thinking was the 16340 was of no use to me, same capacity as the 14500 and the primary CR123s are very expensive.

Here is the LED, not that I know what I am looking at.




:wave:


----------



## Wiggle

Looks like one of the dereelight Q3 5A stars could drop in there easily I think.


----------



## mmmflashlights

You can get decent primary CR123's online for about $1 each, shipped.


----------



## BurlyEd

I now have 4 different AKOray lights. Two of them are K-106s. 

1. AKOray K-106 #1 - This light does not operate correctly with AAs. 
With an AA, the only brightness level is low - even in programming menus, all I see is flashing low and constant low.
No ramp, nothing is ever medium or bright. With a 14500, everything works correctly.
This is the light that prompted my earlier rant about even calling a K-106 a AA light.
Useless with a AA. I use it with a 14500, but it gets hot on maximum in 5 minutes.

2. AKOray K-102 - This is OK with a Duraloop AAA, better with a 10440.
This is an almost perfect shirt pocket flashlight (except for the blueish beam). My EDC.

3. A second AKOray K-106 #2 - Operates correctly with either an eneloop or a 14500. 
With a 14500 it is the same as first K-106 including a tendency to over-heat on maximum.
I use it with an eneloop. I am glad that I recognized that my first K-106 is faulty and bought a second one.

4. AKOray K-109A - I just got it today from KD. Same as K-106 #2, except for battery and form factor.
Heats up really quickly. This is the only light I have that is good with a single primary CR123A.
Considering the heat issue and prices, I would buy an UF A30 (or A20 or A40) instead.
I wouldn't really, but I would recommend the A30 for a friend or relative.


----------



## Sadsack

Wiggle said:


> Looks like one of the dereelight Q3 5A stars could drop in there easily I think.


 Thats what I put in my 106 and 109:twothumbs


----------



## tbenedict

Cemoi said:


> +1 for pictures.
> 
> @bltkmt and tbenedict: do you think this kind of switch can be purchased somewhere? I really like my Akoray K-102 except the very hard to press switch.


 
I haven't taken mine apart, and I'm still new to the hobby. For the cost of the light, I would just buy a new one. The switch feels a little flimsy, which could be the boot. It works well though and is quiet compared to all my others.

I do wish it could tail stand though.


----------



## Beacon of Light

Anyone got a link for the 3 mode (AA) programmable one?


----------



## Benson

Beacon of Light said:


> Anyone got a link for the 3 mode (AA) programmable one?


 
It's DX *[link removed - DM51]* -- title still says 6-mode, but the lights they ship are actually 3-mode programmable for some months now.


----------



## Mgz

recently i got a Akoray AAA and the clicky has been perfect for me , maybe because I am Asian with a very skinny hands >.<


----------



## highseas

Runtimes for Akoray AA

I have the original 6-mode light. Now it comes in 3-adjustable modes, so I don't know if there is a big difference or not. I didn't test it on high because I didn't want to leave it on for that long (it gets a little warm; not hot, but still), but medium is not that far behind from high and has a good balance between brightness and long runtime. 

Here are the runtimes for my Akoray AA:

With no-name alkaline AA:
Hi: not tested
Medium: around 1 hr, then dim for about 15 minutes or so
Low: around 8 hrs and 10 minutes

With Trustfire 14500 rechargeable:
Hi: not tested
Medium: around 2 hrs 5 minutes, then can go on low for 5 to 10 minutes
Low: around 14 hrs

I echo what others have said: using 14500 provides much better runtimes; it also provides very noticeable improvement in brightness on high and medium over a regular AA battery.


----------



## bguy

Benson said:


> It's DX *[link removed - DM51]* -- title still says 6-mode, but the lights they ship are actually 3-mode programmable for some months now.



It's item #16607.


----------



## romteb

I bought this item, and received the 6 modes one, as advertised.

I wouldn't recommand to anyone buying this one if they want the 3 programmable modes one, just buy it from Kaidomain (that is if Kaidomain doesn't send the 6 modes one to those ordering the 3 mode one, my head hurts)


----------



## highseas

What? That is messed up. I like my 6-mode Akoray like from DX, but I want to get a 3-programmable mode one at some point. Now I'm not sure what I may be getting in the mail if I order one.

Did this happen to other people? Is the 3-mode programmable light is in stock? Did you get one recently?


----------



## bguy

I ordered one from DX, and expect it to arrive this week. I'm hoping I get the 3 mode one. My rexlight 2.1 broke, so I needed a replacement.


----------



## vali

genotypic said:


> Amazingly, the light ran for *59 hours* before the voltage of the battery dropped to 3.59V and I stopped the test. It was a pleasant surprise as I certainly didn't expect it to last so long. I didn't notice any visible dimming of the light, but it would be hard to tell at that level.



I just did a runtime test with an *eneloop* and got *40 hours* in low. I was expecting a bit less... I like this little thing a bit more now.


----------



## BurlyEd

I just ordered (from KD) an:
* AKOray K-102 CREE Q5 1-Mode Flashlight (1*AAA) SKU: S007733 * 
$14.99 Availability: ship in 1-3 business days :twothumbs

Of course after I ordered , "Status: Back-ordered". :thumbsdow

And the usual confusing, inconsistant, useless stats jumble: :sigh:
"Battery Type: 1*AAA ,1*10440 Battery
Voltage input range (1.2V~1.5V)
Voltage & Current (DC Power Supply) 1.2V ~ 1100mA,1.5V~1560mA"

So now I need to locate a 1.2V~1.5V 10440 Battery? :thinking: 

Has anyone seen this Q5 AKOray anywhere else?


----------



## vali

BurlyEd said:


> And the usual confusing, inconsistant, useless stats jumble: :sigh:
> "Battery Type: 1*AAA ,1*10440 Battery
> Voltage input range (1.2V~1.5V)
> Voltage & Current (DC Power Supply) 1.2V ~ 1100mA,1.5V~1560mA"
> 
> So now I need to locate a 1.2V~1.5V 10440 Battery? :thinking:



Verbatim from the flashlight body:

P.D.C. K-106
0.7 - *4.5* DC



> Has anyone seen this Q5 AKOray anywhere else?



I got mine from DX.


----------



## s.c.

I just received my 106 today and I'm very impressed at the quality, especially for the price. The stock tailcap was much to hard to depress, so I swapped it with a black one I had. It no longer tail stands, but it is much easier to engage the switch. What impresses me most is that the PWM is fast enough even on the lowest setting such that I can't detect it.


----------



## BurlyEd

vali said:


> Verbatim from the flashlight body:
> 
> P.D.C. K-106
> 0.7 - *4.5* DC
> 
> 
> 
> I got mine from DX.


You are talking about a K-106 (AA, 14500)
I am talking about a K-102 (AAA, 10440)
I have all current AKOrays (K-102 SSC-RB, K-106 Q5 and K-109A Q5)
All have "0.7-4.5v DC" printed on the side. But not on the K-102 Q5.

The light I ordered from KD is a K-102 Q5.
None of the pictures on KD show any writing on the flashlight body.
The side panels are blank.
All of the descriptions on KD specify AA battery, Voltage input range (1.2V~1.5V).
Except one place where "Battery Type: 1*AAA ,1*10440 Battery" is specified.
A 10440 Battery is a 3.6-4.2v Li-Ion.
I am trying to determine whether I can put a 10440 in the K-102 Q5 without it going


----------



## vali

Oops, sorry, was talking about K-106.

I had the SSC K-102 and it had the 0.7 - 4.5 voltage input IIRC. I didnt even knew that it is a new Q5 version.


----------



## mmmflashlights

s.c. said:


> I just received my 106 today and I'm very impressed at the quality, especially for the price. The stock tailcap was much to hard to depress, so I swapped it with a black one I had. It no longer tail stands, but it is much easier to engage the switch. What impresses me most is that the PWM is fast enough even on the lowest setting such that I can't detect it.



Did you get the 3-mode or 6-mode light? Hopefully you received the 3-mode version that can be programmed....


----------



## s.c.

mmmflashlights said:


> Did you get the 3-mode or 6-mode light? Hopefully you received the 3-mode version that can be programmed....



I got the 3-mode. The beam could be a little warmer and more even, but I'm quite content for the price.


----------



## rizky_p

oh man, now they are shipping the 6 modes again?  can anyone confirms that DX still shipping the 3 modes?

I am about to ordered one until i read the last posts here.

how many Akoray AA are there can anyone give a quick recap? and How bright is 102 SSC-RB version has anyone compared it to anything? I am looking for a new cheap EDC that doesnt cost me much when lost or stolen. 

thanks


----------



## romteb

I got the K109A from kaidomain, it's the CR123A form factor one.

It had the same gap the K106 i received had, only much bigger.:thinking:







Corrected that on the lathe again...i guess you have to be prepared to do some machining if you want a finished product from Akoray.

Now that it has lost approximatly 2mm lengthwise, you can see it's much shorter than the AK16, wich is the AA/CR123A version.






Functionality and output are identical.


----------



## rizky_p

will a dremel with some grinding stone/sanding wheel work to cut down the tube length? i dont have a lathe.


----------



## Benson

rizky_p said:


> will a dremel with some grinding stone/sanding wheel work to cut down the tube length? i dont have a lathe.



IMHO there's no reason to cut it down; since the head already comes down over the o-ring, it's as sealed as it's gonna get, and all you gain are cosmetics. If you like it better shorter, and have a lathe, then go for it, but if you don't have a lathe, I'd just leave it alone. You'll never get it perfectly square with a dremel, so it won't make as good of contact. It _probably_ won't have any discernable effect right away, but the point contact will wear faster, if nothing else.


----------



## romteb

Agree with Benson, it's purely cosmetic, and a small gain in volume, i'm certainly being anal here.


----------



## Fallingwater

Sorry for the monstrous delay in the review - I put it on hold as I worked on other projects. I've resumed work on it yesterday though, I hope to put it up before long.


----------



## notsobrite

i just got my akoray AAA from shiningbeam and what a great little light. i edc a solarforce L2 in my belt pak but this little gem is now riding in my shirtpocket for when i just need a little light. very nice


----------



## xcnick

I see there is now a Q4 103 AAA at DX to add to the SSC and the Q5 at KD. What is a Q4?


----------



## kosPap

in simple it is a "bin" a quality/performance subcaegory of the main LED

the LED is "Cree 7090 XR-E Q5/Q4/Q2/P4/P3/whatever"

for more 
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLamp7090XR-E_B&L.pdf
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLamp7090XR-E.pdf**


----------



## romteb

Anyone tried to remove the markings ?

It seems to me that they are laser engraved and filled with paint, or is it just paint ?

EDIT:

I took a macro picture, it's definitly engraved


----------



## DHart

I just received a K-106 from DX (sku 16607) a few days ago... it is the 3-mode programmable version, even though the description reads "Q5-WC 6-mode...". 
In short... I love this light.... it's a fantastic product. Great quality, awesome 3-mode versatility in programming, and BRILLIANT output on 14500! Nice!


----------



## Helstar

I just received a K-102 from DX. I am very happy with this little light. I love AAA that have any kind of throw. I was going to give my family members a Streamlight Microstream, but, I think I may just buy some more of these and give them out. 
I want to get the K-103 next


----------



## DHart

Helstar... the Microstream is a nice little light, but compared to lights like the L0D, LD01, K-102 or K-103, and the upcoming LF2XT, I don't think the MS measures up. A good combo, as you may know, is an LD01 or L0D head on the MS body... gives a nice clickie with amazing output. I have a K-103 on the way from Hong Kong. I hear they are awesome little lights.


----------



## s.c.

HOLY CRAP!!! I just tried out the K-103 (aaa q5) with 10440 at night time. I can't believe how bright that little thing is!

Does anyone know how to take out the switch assembly in a microstream? I have a feeling that it would work in the 103. The 103 switch is way too mushy.


----------



## DHart

s.c. said:


> HOLY CRAP!!! I just tried out the K-103 (aaa q5) with 10440 at night time. I can't believe how bright that little thing is!



I had the same reaction to my LD01 on 10440! WOW. The Li-Ion really brings out the Q5 goodness! Oh man.... I've probably got another week to go before my Hong Kong connection gets my K-103 to my doorstep.... can't wait to check it out!



s.c. said:


> Does anyone know how to take out the switch assembly in a microstream? I have a feeling that it would work in the 103. The 103 switch is way too mushy.



I tried to remove the switch from my MS tailcap and couldn't find a way to do it. Perhaps someone else here knows how.


----------



## jonsson

I just recieved my K-106 from dealextreme. I have problems with the programming. The programming itself seems to work fine but it is not saved correctly about 9 out of 10 times. I get more or less random modes saved instead of the modes I programmed. :sigh:

Any ideas?


----------



## jonsson

jonsson said:


> I just recieved my K-106 from dealextreme. I have problems with the programming. The programming itself seems to work fine but it is not saved correctly about 9 out of 10 times. I get more or less random modes saved instead of the modes I programmed. :sigh:
> 
> Any ideas?



Now the programming suddenly works every time again :thinking:. I think AKOray needs to do some beta-testing of the firmware. I wished the light had a USB-connection so I could program it with my computer instead .

Btw, is there any programmable AAA-lights from AKOray?


----------



## boomhauer

jonsson said:


> Now the programming suddenly works every time again :thinking:. I think AKOray needs to do some beta-testing of the firmware. I wished the light had a USB-connection so I could program it with my computer instead .
> 
> Btw, is there any programmable AAA-lights from AKOray?


Perhaps a battery-out reboot solved the problem?

I'm not aware of any AAA AKOray programmables - just the K-102/103 single modes.


----------



## jonsson

boomhauer said:


> Perhaps a battery-out reboot solved the problem?



Battery-out reboot? I though removing the battery was the same as turning the light off with the switch.


----------



## xcnick

s.c. said:


> HOLY CRAP!!! I just tried out the K-103 (aaa q5) with 10440 at night time. I can't believe how bright that little thing is!



What is the run time on a 10440?


----------



## oronocova

I didn't realize the 103 was different that the 102 I had other than the clicky... but it looks like higher output, awesome. You just made me buy another light l Now if only there was a safe chemistry 10440, I don't think there is though, anyone?


----------



## hoffmand

Which K-103 should I get? DX has a Q4, KD has Q5, and shining beam has the SSC for about the same price. People are reviewing the Q5 but then say they got it at DX so I'm confused.......


----------



## romteb

My K-106 went through a bit of Personalization.

I don't deny what CPF made me become.

Inscriptions to be filled with glow in the dark material soon.:naughty:


----------



## boomhauer

jonsson said:


> Battery-out reboot? I though removing the battery was the same as turning the light off with the switch.


You're right, it's just a simple circuit - don't know what I was thinking.



hoffmand said:


> Which K-103 should I get? DX has a Q4, KD has Q5, and shining beam has the SSC for about the same price. People are reviewing the Q5 but then say they got it at DX so I'm confused.......


I'd probably go with KD since they at least say it's a Q5, but both KD and DX play fast and loose with specs. The only sure thing is that the K-102 is neither Q4 or Q5. I've got the K-102 and, while I like it a lot, the K-103 seems an intriguing upgrade.


----------



## boomhauer

romteb said:


> My K-106 went through a bit of Personalization.
> 
> I don't deny what CPF made me become.


 
Nice work, and kudos for acknowledging your affliction! :twothumbs


----------



## hazna

Whats the regulation and runtime like the the Akoray AA (106) with 14500? Someone said you get around 20-25 minutes on a 14500 on high? Is that pretty flat regulation?

Whats the runtime like with 2000-2100mAh LSD (like eneloops?)


----------



## s.c.

Has anyone disassembled (and successfully reassembled) a switch assembly for the 102/103 forward clicky?

I took mine apart to give the switch more tension, and I can't figure out where these tiny metal pieces go.


----------



## Wiggle

s.c. said:


> I got the 3-mode. The beam could be a little warmer and more even, but I'm quite content for the price.



I've got a Q4 5B on the way I'll swap into my k109, it'll be nearly perfect:twothumbs


----------



## Helstar

I am still digging my K-102, I have started to carry it as my EDC as oppsed to my Led Lenser P3 and my Microstream. 
These seem like really good little lights.


----------



## rizky_p

Finally received mine yesterday, i have been playing with it for a while. Nice little flashlight, good quality overall(square thread etc). I am please with Akoray 106. Will buy it again soon.


----------



## DHart

I just received my K-103 from DX - it joins the K-106 I got a short while back (which I really love). THIS, is another winner from AKOray. :thumbsup:

Popped a 10440 into it and I'm very happy with this little light, which cost me $14 including shipping! THis is a no brainer AAA-size light. Good brightness too... with the 10440 it metered at 3.9 EV (in my ceiling bounce test) and is just a bit brighter than my ConneXion X2 on a 14500 (which is an R2!), which meters at 3.7 EV! Has a nice, soft forward clickie which is silent. Excellent build quality, beautiful square-cut threads.. just needed a little lube to complete it. Great little light!


----------



## Wiggle

Is there any reason to not get the AK-16 over the k106 that anyone is aware of? I was thinking about getting one for the AA capability but the 16340 use could also be nice. The only thing I can think of is decreased crush resistance due to the thinner walls which isn't an issue for me.


----------



## DHart

Wiggle said:


> Is there any reason to not get the AK-16 over the k106 that anyone is aware of? I was thinking about getting one for the AA capability but the 16340 use could also be nice. The only thing I can think of is decreased crush resistance due to the thinner walls which isn't an issue for me.



At $21 each... get both? 

It appears that the light is the same functionally either way and the output is probably comparable. I would give the nod to the K-106 by virtue of it being able to run on:

14500 Li-Ion
AA Lithium primary
AA NiMH rechargeable
AA alkaline

If you should ever find yourself in a place where CR123 might be impossible to get, you are quite likely to be able to find one or more of the AA varieties.

The K-106 is a bit longer and the K-109 is shorter... you may prefer one over the other due to length preferences.

Someone who has both will hopefully chime in and add some good info.


----------



## xcnick

I think he means the one that takes all those batteries as well as the 16340 and even the 17500 with a slight mod. I wrote a while back I have both and much prefer the AK-16. Now will they come out with a 18650 size?


----------



## DHart

xcnick said:


> I think he means the one that takes all those batteries as well as the 16340 and even the 17500 with a slight mod. I wrote a while back I have both and much prefer the AK-16. Now will they come out with a 18650 size?



Please tell us what it is about the AK-16 that you prefer to the K-106... how is the extra space consumed when running with the 16340? The color looks different, as well, less like bronze and more like silver.

and, yes, an 18650 version would ROCK!!!


----------



## xcnick

DHart said:


> Please tell us what it is about the AK-16 that you prefer to the K-106... how is the extra space consumed when running with the 16340? The color looks different, as well, less like bronze and more like silver.
> 
> and, yes, an 18650 version would ROCK!!!



The 17500 gives more run time and the AK-16 is just a little fatter so all the fenix accessories fit like the filters and diffuser. To fit a 16340 it has a spring on at the top and the tail. I see the color as the same on both.


----------



## DHart

what modification is required to run a 17500 in the light?


----------



## xcnick

Basically there is a plastic collar top and bottom to keep an AA from flopping side to side and a 16340 from slopping up and back. I just cut off the collar. 

I was only interested in 17500 and AA batteries. I got rid of the top spring and thinned out the plastic so the AA would contact the head. I left a little of the top collar to catch an AA and then I use a magnet to extend the 17500 just beyond the collar. But it was probably overkill. I think just cutting the entire collar off would be fine and then you would not need a magnet on the 17500 and a 16340 might still work. Leave the top spring. If the AA does rattle, one could use an O-ring around the battery. Anyway, the way I did it there is no rattle at all with an AA even though there is no collar at the bottom, but I can't use a 16340 anymore because I don't have the top spring.


----------



## DHart

Very interesting... I think I'll go for the AK-16 vs. the K-109. Thank you for the info.


----------



## xcnick

Tell us how it goes with the mod and if it meets you needs. 

I need lots of runtime at work. After going through two 14500 batteries and searching for AAs to finish the job I was happy with the 17500 option and put the 106 in the car with AA batteries. I finally did have a day I ran through both 17500s so that is why I would like to see a 18650 version.

I wonder if the 109 and the AK-16 uses the same head... they look the same.


----------



## DHart

xcnick said:


> Tell us how it goes with the mod and if it meets you needs.
> 
> I need lots of runtime at work. After going through two 14500 batteries and searching for AAs to finish the job I was happy with the 17500 option and put the 106 in the car with AA batteries. I finally did have a day I ran through both 17500s so that is why I would like to see a 18650 version.
> 
> I wonder if the 109 and the AK-16 uses the same head... they look the same.



Sounds like you give your lights quite a daily workout! How much runtime do you get from an AK-16 with a 17500? On high? or do you use a lower output? 

Sounds like you might appreciate the MG L-mini II - a very small 18650 light. It's not exactly cheap, but not too spendy either. Available with quick delivery right here in the USA with choice of Q5 WC or warm white Q3 5C.

http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-41/mini-L-dsh-mini/Detail

I've read a lot of good things about it and have one on the way.


----------



## xcnick

That is what I am using at work now. It is right at the limit of the how big I want a light. I wish it had the square threads the Akoray has because I take the head off often. The pill is in the body rather than the head so taking the head off gives a great wide angle light like a zebralight and there is an optional turbo head for great throw. But I fear the day I strip the threads. The 106 is in the car and the -16 is on the nightstand.


----------



## xcnick

DHart said:


> Sounds like you give your lights quite a daily workout! How much runtime do you get from an AK-16 with a 17500? On high? or do you use a lower output?



The only runtime information I have is to compare at medium. My medium is set where it draws .5 amp with a fresh battery. It is about the same brightness as using AA batteries on high. I went through the 17500s and 14500s at this level. The 14500s went 70 min. and the 17500s 120 min.


----------



## DHart

My K-106 on high draws 1.2 A, so if it could be powered with an AW 17500 (1100 mAh) it looks like a runtime of about 55 minutes. From that, if the AK-16 head draws the same current as the K-106 head, then the runtime on high with the AK-16 should be about:

with a 17500 (1100 mAh) = 55 minutes
with a 14500 (750 mAh) = 38 minutes
with a 16340 (750 mAh) = 38 minutes


----------



## DHart

xcnick said:


> That is what I am using at work now.



The MG L-mini II ? How do you like it (aside from the threads)? 


Any idea on the current draw on high?

Oh yeah... I just found my own answer on Shiningbeam:

* Current output: 80mA on low, 350mA on medium and 1,000 mA on high

So on an 18650 with 2200 mAh, it looks like one should get around 2 hours on high, 6 hours 17 min. on medium, and 27.5 hrs. on low. 

Gotta love the 18650! (Recently capacity on these is up to about 2600 mAh.)


----------



## xcnick

The L-mini is doing the job well. The trick for my maintenance jobs is when stuck under a building, finish the job. Any trip for tools, or batteries, can double the time it takes to finish and I can't just send 4,000 skiers home because I need more time. The L-mini with no head makes it a great task light and the Akoray can't do this trick. The long run time and an extra battery in the holster have not let me down yet.

I can and have spent big bucks to outfit my bat belt with tools. Right now it is summer and I have some time, so I am trying to figure a way to make the belt for a reasonable price with which I can outfit my employees. Everyone thinks I am some sort of genius, but they all could be just as effective if they have the tools handy.

I also don't see giving them LiOn batteries so right now I am working a RC-G2 which also has the pill in the body so you can take the head off and use it as a task light. It is a little too big so I would like to see the Ultrafire C3. Anyone know if the pill is in the body?

In response to many questions about "the belt" I have started documenting the crap pulling my pants down. I put it up at a geocities site. You guys might crash the thing, but here is the link. The L-mini and Akoray are at the bottom of the page.

http://www.geocities.com/xcnick4/EDC.htm


----------



## DHart

Nick... that's quite a primer on tools and lights for EDC. Thanks for taking the time to put that together and share it.

A good inexpensive light with the pill in the body (so you can remove head for 180 degree light) is the Romisen RC-H3 Q5... from, you got it, shiningbeam. Nice forward clicky switch. Runs on AA primaries, AA NiMH, but _NOT_ Li-Ion.

RC-N3 Q5 will do this also (pill in body/remove head for 180 degree flood) and as you probably know runs on CR123, RCR123, or two AA's - with supplied extension tube. Gotta give it to Romisen... the N3 Q5 is _"le bomb"_!


----------



## nanotech17

got mine yesterday but it died after a short brief with 14500,but with ucl lens this thing is impressive,gonna change that driver to RV7 driver.


----------



## xcnick

Dhart, now you have a L-mini, how do you feel the beams compare? I like the AKOray a bit better. It seems to have less ring and donuts.


----------



## xcnick

Dhart, one more. I read in the 109 review you got a second 106. Can you use two bodies together so it will run off 2 AA? The tail cap appears to be the exact same thread as the head so it got me thinking...


----------



## Wiggle

I've updated my K109a review with beamshots. Pretty sure it should hold relevant for the 106/ak16 as well. Check it out, link is in my sig.


----------



## nanotech17

i butchered the stock driver and replaced it with sku15880 now i can use both cell (li-ion & ni-mh) much2 more stable without any erratic behaviour but the light engine (the can) is so thin & can't dissipate heat in the long run with protected 14500 resulting to cell thermal shutdown but with unprotected 14500 is ok.


----------



## DHart

xcnick said:


> Dhart, one more. I read in the 109 review you got a second 106. Can you use two bodies together so it will run off 2 AA? The tail cap appears to be the exact same thread as the head so it got me thinking...



No... the body won't thread into the tail of another body.


----------



## Painkiller1009

Well I just got my 103 in today and its not working right.
When I throw in a duracell AAA it doesn't light up at all, and with 10440 cell it just barely lights up.
I put the 10440s on the charger before using so they should be charged all the way (dont have a meter). The duracells are brand new.
When I mean barely light up I mean just a little. So little that you can look into the led itself.
Any thoughts?

BTW the 109a that I also received is working great.


----------



## kiwicrunch

Would anyone have and idea of runtime on eneloops for the K-106 at the approximate 50%? It thought I saw someone post at least 10 hours for the lowest setting, but information seems to be pretty thin.

Thank you in advance.


----------



## DHart

kiwicrunch said:


> Would anyone have and idea of runtime on eneloops for the K-106 at the approximate 50%? It thought I saw someone post at least 10 hours for the lowest setting, but information seems to be pretty thin.
> 
> Thank you in advance.



My AKOray K-106 as I've programmed it
with a 14500 750 mAh cell:

Draw ======== Estimated Runtime
High 1.2 A ===== 38 minute runtime
Med 210 mA ==== 3.6 hours runtime
Low 40 mA ===== 19 hours runtime

with an Eneloop 1950 mAh:

Draw ======== Estimated Runtime
High 2 A ====== 1 hour runtime runtime
Med 830 mA ==== 2.35 hours runtime
Low 170 mA ==== 11.5 hours runtime


----------



## kiwicrunch

That's good to know. Thanks DHart!


----------



## brik

xcnick said:


> I think he means the one that takes all those batteries as well as the 16340 and even the 17500 with a slight mod. I wrote a while back I have both and much prefer the AK-16. Now will they come out with a 18650 size?



I recently got an AK-16 from Kai by accident, i thought i was ordering a K-106. I am delighted, i didn't know this existed. 

Pros:
My other good light is an LFXT3 running CR123 primary, so the option of using (R)CR123 or AA is brilliant for my needs. I get no rattle with either cell (and no O-rings needed on the AA, as e.g. Romisen ;-)
Currently running the Akoray on AA alkaline, not as dim low or bright high as the LFXT3 but darn good. Not as good a beam pattern or build quality or programming either, but very good for under half the price. I like the Akoray a lot and love the LiteFlux, glad i have both lights.

Cons:
Is the AK-16 bigger diameter than the K-106? I would think so ...
The big springs needed to accept either cell are kind of annoying when inserting AA size.
I have flickering on high with a new Alkaline, but that goes away after a few minutes runtime, looks like maybe the regulation flip flops until voltage drops a bit.

Question:
I've only read of using 16340, AA, 14500 - can i also use CR123A 3Volt primary?


----------



## brik

jonsson said:


> I just recieved my K-106 from dealextreme. I have problems with the programming. The programming itself seems to work fine but it is not saved correctly about 9 out of 10 times. I get more or less random modes saved instead of the modes I programmed. :sigh:
> Any ideas?



I had this problem and plus problems with output flickering on HIGH at first, with a fresh AA alkaline cell. Both problems seem to have gone away after being used about five minutes. I suspect that the problems were related for me, either a weak contact somewhere or problems with the regulation on a fresh alkaline.


----------



## DHart

Perhaps these problems may be associated with the relatively anemic alkaline cell... possibly a lithium primary, or Eneloop NiMH, or 14500 will make the light run as it should?


----------



## xcnick

AKOray 2 AA

The 106 body will screw right into the AK-16 Tail cap. :twothumbs


----------



## edap617

Romteb, what is that material you wrapped around the body tube to prevent scratching.

Thank you


----------



## Retral

edap617 said:


> Romteb, what is that material you wrapped around the body tube to prevent scratching.
> 
> Thank you



I'm pretty sure that's what we like to refer to as "Dad's little miracle" ...aka duct tape.


----------



## romteb

That's duct tape indeed.


----------



## briteflite

My Dx order showed up last night with two K106's. Both are 3-mode. They have two entirely different beams - one is warmer and floody and the other is cooler with a bright hot-spot, dark rings and less spill. Wondering if I can adjust the LED placement in the reflector to improve on that ? Right now I prefer the warmer one. The build quality and finish seem great for an inexpensive light. Ran them both on high for about 10 minutes using new protected cells - one got so hot it shut down, then came back on after a couple of minutes all by itself. Not sure whether that was the protection circuit in the battery kicking in - just stopped working altogether. I thought it went  but it still works fine. The other light just got too hot to handle - it never shut down.


----------



## Retral

Ugh, had a fairly good 'review' typed up but I decided to clean a bit of pepsi on my keyboard off which happened to close my firefox somehow, anyway:

I got my K-106 today.. it's great, but it didn't come PERFECT, I had to tweak a few things:

- The o-ring channels between the head and body are too deep, or at least the o-rings provided were too small. They were stretched too thin to create a good seal between the head & body so I replaced them with bigger thicker ones which work perfectly
- The tailcap switch was really hard to press. I fixed this by popping the end off (which wasn't as easy as it sounds) & putting a shim (a circle cut out of a credit-card like card) between the pill and the rubber switch. It works perfectly now.
- Took the clip off. I wanted to keep it on but I'm pretty sure it would've broken pretty quickly.. it's pretty flimsy.

Other than the above, the light is great. 3 programmable modes, mode memory, square threads & Q5 emitter. This is my first programmable light so that's a really nice feature to have IMO. Low's are very low (I'd estimate 5-20 lumens), high's are quite bright (no idea how many lumens).. and I like the beacon mode. 

Here's a pic of the emitter:


----------



## Wiggle

Retral said:


> - The o-ring channels between the head and body are too deep, or at least the o-rings provided were too small. They were stretched too thin to create a good seal between the head & body so I replaced them with bigger thicker ones which work perfectly



Can you get a pic of this? Maybe they changed something because on mine they are too tight, therefore I always changed batteries from the bottom rather than the top of the light.


----------



## DHart

About the only change I would wish for with my K-106 (and it's not a biggie because I have so many other lights) is the ability to program the low much lower. While it is reasonably low, I like to have a very low low, like .5 lumen, for late night walking around others who are sleeping. Even as is, though, the K-106 is a great light for a steal of a price.


----------



## davidt1

briteflite said:


> My Dx order showed up last night with two K106's. Both are 3-mode. They have two entirely different beams - one is warmer and floody and the other is cooler with a bright hot-spot, dark rings and less spill. Wondering if I can adjust the LED placement in the reflector to improve on that ? Right now I prefer the warmer one. The build quality and finish seem great for an inexpensive light. Ran them both on high for about 10 minutes using new protected cells - one got so hot it shut down, then came back on after a couple of minutes all by itself. Not sure whether that was the protection circuit in the battery kicking in - just stopped working altogether. I thought it went  but it still works fine. The other light just got too hot to handle - it never shut down.



My shut down after just 3 minutes but came back on after 5 seconds. I think will stick with e2 for anything that requires more than a couple of minutes of continuous light . The light is good but can be better in so many ways.


----------



## [email protected]om

davidt1 said:


> My shut down after just 3 minutes but came back on after 5 seconds. I think will stick with e2 for anything that requires more than a couple of minutes of continuous light . The light is good but can be better in so many ways.


 
Must be some variability in these. Mine, on a fresh protected Trustfire 900mAh ran 37 minutes on high, without getting too hot to hold then shut down abruptly. Could not be happier with this light if it cost 5 time as much.


----------



## DHart

davidt1 said:


> The light is good but can be better in so many ways.



Can't they all?

At $23 including shipping what do you expect?

You can sell it or give it to someone who would really appreciate it and continue with your search?


----------



## romteb

This light has a built in protection (wich can be disabled) to avoid aver heating and overdischarging.

The 3 i have all go beyond 1.6A on max with li-ion, that is absurdly high, the light gets hot very quickly but throttles down when the built in protection is activated, seriously, who wants to drive this light at 1.6A when one can hardly tell the difference between 0.6A and 1.6A, i would say 1.6A appears 20% brighter to the eye.

I have my 3 modes programmed at 0.05A, 0.35A, and 0.6A going beyond 0.6 makes absolutly no sense as both runtime and heat are linearly affected while perceived brightness only increase very very marginaly.

The UI and electronics in these lights are wonderfull, the only con is that it give less aware people the freedom to experiment with settings that makes no sense thus affecting negatively their perception of the light quality.


----------



## xcnick

Can one put two 109s together so it can take an 18650? Or will the body without the head screw into the tail cap of the 109? One can maybe check by seeing if the tailcap will screw into the head.

I did find the 106 body put into the tailcap of the AK-16 makes it so one can use two AA batteries.


----------



## Wiggle

Even if you can extend it, none of my 18650s are thin enough to fit in.


----------



## recDNA

Dealextreme and all of the other distributers are overseas right? I wouldn't mind paying a little more to an American distributer.


----------



## xcnick

Wiggle said:


> Even if you can extend it, none of my 18650s are thin enough to fit in.



17650? I was able to get the 17500 into the AK-16


----------



## davidt1

romteb said:


> This light has a built in protection (wich can be disabled) to avoid aver heating and overdischarging.
> 
> The 3 i have all go beyond 1.6A on max with li-ion, that is absurdly high, the light gets hot very quickly but throttles down when the built in protection is activated, seriously, who wants to drive this light at 1.6A when one can hardly tell the difference between 0.6A and 1.6A, i would say 1.6A appears 20% brighter to the eye.
> 
> I have my 3 modes programmed at 0.05A, 0.35A, and 0.6A going beyond 0.6 makes absolutly no sense as both runtime and heat are linearly affected while perceived brightness only increase very very marginaly.
> 
> The UI and electronics in these lights are wonderfull, the only con is that it give less aware people the freedom to experiment with settings that makes no sense thus affecting negatively their perception of the light quality.



Do you still need the built-in protection from the light if you are using protected batteries? I am a little confused. Protected batteries have their own protection circuit, right?


Running mine again right now. It's been 8 minutes straight so far. The light is warm, not hot.


----------



## vali

The idea is having 2 different kinds of "protection" (IMHO). The flashlight should warn you about the cell is almost depleted (a blink here and there) and then, when the battery reachs the point where it can be damaged, the cell protection kick in to avoid it.

That way you are warned about the imminent blackout and have some time to search for a replacement.


----------



## highseas

hi, do I understand correctly that you tap the button quickly three times to activate this built-in protection feature? I still don't know exactly what it does. Does it just prevent the light from drawing too much power from the batteries? And is it true that I should turn it on when using 14500 and turn it off when using regular AA?


----------



## xcnick

Yup, I think you have it.

I did put together all I could about the programing.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2970972&postcount=42


----------



## highseas

thanks, that's helpful!


----------



## briteflite

xcnick said:


> Yup, I think you have it.
> 
> I did put together all I could about the programing.
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2970972&postcount=42



thanks for putting this together.


----------



## davidt1

xcnick said:


> Yup, I think you have it.
> 
> I did put together all I could about the programing.
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2970972&postcount=42



Read your tutorial. Thanks for putting it together. So the light comes from the factory with the protection off, correct? To use regular batteries, this protection must be off?

I haven't changed anything, so I can assume the protection is off? Trustfire protected batteries work fine so far. I think will leave the protection off, if it's already off but I don't really know for sure.


----------



## xcnick

davidt1 said:


> So the light comes from the factory with the protection off, correct? To use regular batteries, this protection must be off?



I can't remember how it was set from the factory, but if the protection is on "regular" batteries (1.7, 1.5, 1.2 volt) will not work, so you will know right away. Protection is probably only necessary for unprotected 3.7v batteries.


----------



## davidt1

I dropped my light onto the pavement last light. Still works fine though. I set it to 3 modes before: l/m/h, but the low was not as low as could be. So I tried to reset it. Now I get the good low but no medium. Now it's just l/h/h.


----------



## vali

Yes, the ramping is a bit fast and sometimes its tricky to get a decent medium.


----------



## xcnick

vali said:


> tricky to get a decent medium.



I found the same thing and needed a numerical value to work with until I found what I liked. I set up my multi meter to amp, took off the tailcap, and used the meter to connect between neg of battery and body. then I could measure what "medium" I was using. Tap the probe 5 times and I was in the program and then as it was ramping up I would stop at .5A. After using that for a day or so I was then able to decide if I wanted lower or higher. If lower is what I wanted, I would do the same thing, but stop at .4A. It was also a better way for me to catch the lowest possible setting for the low mode I wanted. I found I could remove the probe faster than using the button when trying to catch the start of the ramping.


----------



## davidt1

I think the medium mode of my light might have been damaged after the fall. For the low mode, I tap immediately after the the light flashes once for the first mode. For the medium mode, I tap immediately after the light flashes twice. For the high mode, I click to shut down when it switches to 100%. I only get l/h/h. I say something is wrong now because I was able to get a medium before I dropped the light.


----------



## [email protected]

How does one remove the tailcap on the K-106?


----------



## DHart

[email protected] said:


> How does one remove the tailcap on the K-106?



Twists off like most tailcaps do... just hard to get a grip on the very thin surface area... try some rubber gloves, perhaps.


----------



## vali

You need to unscrew the tailcap. If its too hard to do, just get a piece of rubber, press the light against it and it should work. I did it with the mouse pad, but you can use another thing, like a tire :devil:


----------



## hatman

Is there any way to straighten the clip, which is quite crooked on mine?


----------



## BlackDecker

I finally got my AKOray AA from Hong Kong (took almost a month to arrive from date of order). The light output is pretty fantastic... it easily overpowers my old Fenix L1P, and gives my Fenix L2D a good competition.

The build quality seems pretty decent for a $23 flashlight. 

The only thing I needed to do was put a bit of Super Lube on the dry threads when I installed the AA Eneloop.


----------



## Wiggle

Is it too early to nominate the k106/k109/ak16 as best budget light of the year?:devil:


----------



## DHart

Wiggle said:


> Is it too early to nominate the k106/k109/ak16 as best budget light of the year?:devil:



:thumbsup:


----------



## Vikas Sontakke

I ordered TANK007 AAA SSC model. I am not too thrilled with it. The output is less than the venerable original KD Buckle light which is shame. For small EDC, I want SSC beam pattern and TANK007 seemed to had very good reviews.

- Vikas


----------



## konfusius

*I need your help!*

I opened the tailcap of my K-106 and accidentally bent the thin contacts of the actual switch and now it seems that there's no contact to the body anymore 

Would somebody be so kind and upload a photo of the intact contacts, so that I can see how to re-bend them to their original position?

THX in advance!


----------



## lundeholm

Hi!

I own a Fenix L1D which I am very happy with but after reading some threads here on the forums I've become interested in Li-Ion based flashlights :naughty: The AkoRay k-109A seems like a good alternative but before I buy it I would like to compare it sizewize to my Fenix L1D. I would be very greatful if someone could provide a photo of these to lights side by side for comparison.

Thanks! :thumbsup:


----------



## konfusius

konfusius said:


> *I need your help!*
> 
> I opened the tailcap of my K-106 and accidentally bent the thin contacts of the actual switch and now it seems that there's no contact to the body anymore
> 
> Would somebody be so kind and upload a photo of the intact contacts, so that I can see how to re-bend them to their original position?
> 
> THX in advance!



Anybody?


----------



## romteb

Here you go.


----------



## konfusius

Merci beaucoup


----------



## Mgz

my Akoray AAA survived a full cycle in the washing machine yesterday.  , no water inside at all.

but 1 month ago my ipod classic took the same trip and she was not that lucky. RIP


----------



## oldtimer

I have a problem with mine. Mine takes several clicks before it'll turn on and off and it won't stay at the same brightness level when I turn it on and off. Is there some way I could program it or is it defective?


----------



## jahxman

I have the *AKOray K-103 CREE Q5 1-Mode *version of the AAA light; I find it to be very bright, as bright as my LF2X on max. 

With a 10440 it draws 700mA at the tailcap; I haven't tried to do a real runtime on it yet.

I find the forward clicky on this light very easy to operate, both for momentary and continuous. 

I also have a Ultrafire A6 with a Q5-WC emitter and reverse clicky which I* do* find hard to operate with any finger. 

I fixed this by putting a small round bit of rubber in the boot switch to improve it's reach. 

The Ultrafire A6 is drawing 430 mA and producing a lesser amount of light than the AKOray, although floodier and warmer.


----------



## DHart

jahxman said:


> I have the *AKOray K-103 CREE Q5 1-Mode *version of the AAA light; I find it to be very bright, as bright as my LF2X on max.
> 
> With a 10440 it draws 700mA at the tailcap; I haven't tried to do a real runtime on it yet.
> 
> I find the forward clicky on this light very easy to operate, both for momentary and continuous.



Yeah... I have this light also... it's a really, really nice, inexpensive, BRIGHT, simple light with a momentary/forward clicky, yet! A great low cost choice.


----------



## oldtimer

oldtimer said:


> I have a problem with mine. Mine takes several clicks before it'll turn on and off and it won't stay at the same brightness level when I turn it on and off. Is it defective?



Does anyone know? I was wondering if this is easily fixed or do I need to contact the seller. Thanks.


----------



## Wiggle

oldtimer said:


> Does anyone know? I was wondering if this is easily fixed or do I need to contact the seller. Thanks.



Sounds like a bad switch. Pull off the tail cap end and connect the bottom of the battery to the bare metal of the light (using something conductive like a paper clip) and see if it works.


----------



## MerkurMan

lundeholm said:


> Hi!
> 
> I own a Fenix L1D which I am very happy with but after reading some threads here on the forums I've become interested in Li-Ion based flashlights :naughty: The AkoRay k-109A seems like a good alternative but before I buy it I would like to compare it sizewize to my Fenix L1D. I would be very greatful if someone could provide a photo of these to lights side by side for comparison.
> 
> Thanks! :thumbsup:


I don't have a true L1D, but I do have an LD20 head sitting on an L1D body/tailcap, which should give you a rough idea.


----------



## hazna

can someone post the l1d in comparison to the akoray AA 106?


----------



## MerkurMan

Ask and ye shall receive.  Again, this is an LD20/L1D lego. Not sure what the size difference between the Lx/LDx heads are, but it should be close.























And just for fun, while I had the camera out... the whole AkOray family, alongside my D10 and Fenix lego.  Sorry for the pic-intensive post.


----------



## DHart

I recently ordered a Jet I Pro 3.0, which arrived today. I find that my AKOray K-106 and this Jet are like blood brothers... they operate almost identically...3 programmable modes, have about the same output, are about the same size, and the Jet was $77 while the K-106 was, what, $21 or something like that?

Obviously, the Jet has a bit better build quality, stainless steel bezel lens retaining ring, smooth reflector for killer throw... but all in all, for the money, the K-106 is a much better value with nearly the same utility! In hindsight, I might not have bought the Jet since I already have the K-106, which is a great flashlight for the money.


----------



## hazna

Thanks for all the pics!:twothumbs

Looks like the akoray 106 is about the same length, maybe slightly wider than the LD10. I believe the original L1D is slightly shorter than the LD10. Hmm... will seriously consider getting an akoray 106 later on.

btw, Dhart, I wouldn't feel bad about getting the jetbeam v3. You'll probably get better run times with the jetbeam, and as you already mentioned the build quality is better. 

btw Dhart, can you post a pic with the jetbeam and akoray 106 side by side? Would also be interested in a runtime comparison between the two too.


----------



## vali

@Merkurman: Yo need the K-103 too . BTW seems you K-106 is a light you really like. That kind of beating is not a sign of shelf-queen (and I am glad it can take that and still works, unlike most of DX cheapies).


----------



## lundeholm

MerkurMan said:


> I don't have a true L1D, but I do have an LD20 head sitting on an L1D body/tailcap, which should give you a rough idea.



Thank you very much! I just clicked the buy-button on KD :twothumbs


----------



## DHart

hazna said:


> btw, Dhart, I wouldn't feel bad about getting the jetbeam v3. You'll probably get better run times with the jetbeam, and as you already mentioned the build quality is better.



A little night time use out on my acreage last night made me a believer in the Jet I Pro IBS 3.0. Jets are known for their ability to throw and this little bugger shoots a spot waaay out there better than every other light I have (which is quite a few) with the exception of my Jet III-M Q3 warm, which still has just a slight edge in throw over the Jet I Pro. 

I'm going to relegate the wonderful K-106 to car glove box duty (joining a Romisen RC-F4 which is already there.) I like to have at least two lights in the car at all times and with all the other lights I have, won't miss the K-106. The Jet I Pro 3.0 will be grabbed for walks on the property and join the Jet III-M for camping trips and such. Up until recently, I have been more interested in general use lights and now beginning to really enjoy the throwers!  The Quark AA/123, by the way, has an amazingly clean beam AND throws nearly as well as the Jet I Pro!... it's quite a great light!


----------



## juplin

hazna said:


> can someone post the l1d in comparison to the akoray AA 106?


Length comparison





Head diameter comparison (forget to wipe the dust on the glass window )


----------



## Wiggle

Isn't it weird that the L1D and k106 have such similar reflectors but the k106 seems so much throwier?


----------



## MerkurMan

vali said:


> @Merkurman: Yo need the K-103 too . BTW seems you K-106 is a light you really like. That kind of beating is not a sign of shelf-queen (and I am glad it can take that and still works, unlike most of DX cheapies).


Actually, I do have a K-103 as well. Love it, it's my backup EDC, and lives in the side pouch of my Leatherman's sheath. :thumbsup: And my K-106 has survived 4 rough months in my pants pocket, and it shows! I'm definitely not nice to my EDC equipment, and I'm impressed by the little AKOray's performance and quality. I've since replaced it with the D10, but it still holds a special place in my heart. 



lundeholm said:


> Thank you very much! I just clicked the buy-button on KD :twothumbs


Great! Glad I could be of help in your selection process.  It really is a great light for the money, and I hope you enjoy it!



juplin said:


> Length comparison
> 
> Head diameter comparison (forget to wipe the dust on the glass window )


Nice pics! Really is impressive how much smaller the LxD head is compared to the LDx. My lego is about a mm longer than the K-106, and it appears that your L1D is about 1-2mm shorter, and much smaller in diameter, which I would prefer. Oh well, can't have everything I guess! I really like your lanyard loop solution on the K-106 as well. Very crafty. :thumbsup:


----------



## hyperloop

Hi all, thanks firstly to the OP for an excellent review and to all the others who have contributed to this thread, i have sat down and read each and every posting (occasionally hitting the keyboard so that my boss thinks i am working).

I ordered an Akoray AAA from DX (the $8.80 model) but mine is engraved as K-102 which is supposed to be the 130 lumen one but it isnt anywhere near 130 lumens, more like 40 or so which, after discounting DX's claims of 60 lumens, sounds about right. 

The model i got has a protruding tailcap switch which makes it easy to activate but it feels 'mushy' but what can i expect for $8.80? It's a nice light, serves its purpose and i am very pleased with it.

I am convinced that i have lost my Jet I Mk IIx in the cab today, so i was looking around for another AA light, was down to the Nitecore D10 or the Akoray K-106, 3 mode programmable and it's probably going to be the Akoray.

I wouldnt mind having the flexibility of using either AA/14500/CR123/16340 in a light and having the flexibility to program?? That would be a great EDC light, that would be the AK-16 that i have read about! 

However, searches on DX turn up nothing and the search on KD shows a PDC AK-16 16340/14500 light but nothing under Akoray.

Can someone guide me to this AK-16 light? I probably will get both the AK-16 and the Akoray K-106 3 mode.


----------



## xcnick

hyperloop said:


> the search on KD shows a PDC AK-16 16340/14500 light but nothing under Akoray.
> 
> Can someone guide me to this AK-16 light? I probably will get both the AK-16 and the Akoray K-106 3 mode.



The PDC AK-16 is the one we are talking about. Who knows why it is not listed as AKOray. AKOray is written on the light when you get it.

If you get both, the 106 body will screw into the AK-16 so you can use 2 AA. The AK-16 is easily modified to use 17500 batteries.


----------



## vali

hyperloop, the bright AAA is the K-103, not the K-102. I had a K-102 and, as you said, is a bit dim (about 20-25 lumen using Ni-MH) but the runtime is not that bad (almost 3 hours). I dont remember if this one can use lithiums. If it had a keychain hole it will be my perfect cheap keychain flashlight (IMHO).

Right now the K-106 you can get in DX is the programmable 3 mode but the DX description product is wrong. I dont know where to find the K-16 or what are the differences between them (IIRC the only difference was a thicker tube).


----------



## hyperloop

thanks for the replies vali and xcnick:

vali: strangely enough my Akay AAA has the output of the K-102 but the body is that of the K-103, mine has a protruding tailcap forward clicky and no keychain hole, ah well, the wonders of DX eh?

xcnick: read your EDC post on geocities, man, that is a LOT of stuff to EDC but hey, you have what you need to work, *when* you need to work so that is darn cool too. One weekend my wife was teasin me about my 'Batbelt' and all i had was a Gerber suspension and cellphone, both holstered and my Jet III Pro ST also holstered, a Jetbeam Jet I Mk IIx in my pocket and an E01 on my neck lanyard. Who had the last laugh? I did of course, Gerber used to lift barbecue grill and open tins of fruit, lights used to keep track of my friend's kids running around and to look for stuff that people dropped and to get back to the cars.

One last question, i like the versatility of using CR123s or 14500s and am leaning towards the AK-16 first, is the efficiency of that light close to that of the K-106?

*EDIT:* ahhh, the heck with it, instead of thinking too much, i just placed an order for the K-106 from KD, if i like it, the AK-16 will be the next one when i get paid this month, have bought a few too many this month already. Thanks a lot for all the input everyone!


----------



## xcnick

hyperloop said:


> One last question, i like the versatility of using CR123s or 14500s and am leaning towards the AK-16 first, is the efficiency of that light close to that of the K-106?



I ran some 14500s down in both and they seemed exactly the same.


----------



## DHart

hyperloop said:


> *EDIT:* ahhh, the heck with it, instead of thinking too much, i just placed an order for the K-106 from KD, if i like it, the AK-16 will be the next one when i get paid this month, have bought a few too many this month already. Thanks a lot for all the input everyone!



Smart to NOT engage in the "thinking TOO much syndrome"... you're going to like that K-106, I'm sure, it's a very competent light for a very modest amount of money... a superb choice for those who want to keep costs down.


----------



## DHart

xcnick said:


> I ran some 14500s down in both and they seemed exactly the same.



14500 li-ions have about 23% greater capacity than 16340 li-ions, generally speaking and regardless of the capacity stated on the cell label. It stands to reason... 14500's have about 23% greater cell volume than 16340's do.


----------



## vali

hyperloop said:


> vali: strangely enough my Akay AAA has the output of the K-102 but the body is that of the K-103, mine has a protruding tailcap forward clicky and no keychain hole, ah well, the wonders of DX eh?



The newer K-102 have protuding tailcap too. Mine had the recessed one and was a bit difficult to use, but the feeling was very solid. Its not the first time they mix bodies with pills (or you got a deffective one) and I am glad that never happened to me (nor getting a broken one). The only flashlight I regret buying in DX was the Tk-702. At first I thought it was a bad sample but lots of comments suggest they are that bad. For the same money the k-102 is way way better (only miss a keychain hole).


----------



## dave101

Anyone have any input on the performance of the AK16 using cr123 compared to 14500? Looking more for lumen comparison than run time.

Also, any news on the problems with the length of time it's been taking getting these shipped?

Thanks


----------



## oldtimer

What's the best lithium 14500 battery to order for this?


----------



## DHart

oldtimer said:


> What's the best lithium 14500 battery to order for this?



oldtimer... AW's protected 14500 is a great cell, but a little expensive. I've got a few of these and they are good.

Also, I just ordered and received two Trustfire blue protected cells (two for around $5 I think incl. shipping from DX) and they are excellent cells for a reaaaally great price, so I would recommend them.

I've tried Ultrafire silver 14500 protected cells and both of the ones I got had misaligned protection circuits in the base and would NOT fit in my K-106 body! Personally, I won't be buying any Ultrafire Silver 14500 protected cells again.


----------



## oldtimer

DHart said:


> oldtimer... AW's protected 14500 is a great cell, but a little expensive. I've got a few of these and they are good.
> 
> Also, I just ordered and received two Trustfire blue protected cells (two for around $5 I think incl. shipping from DX) and they are excellent cells for a reaaaally great price, so I would recommend them.
> 
> I've tried Ultrafire silver 14500 protected cells and both of the ones I got had misaligned protection circuits in the base and would NOT fit in my K-106 body! Personally, I won't be buying any Ultrafire Silver 14500 protected cells again.



Thanks! I just checked DX and it's 900mah compared to 750mah too!

Does anyone know why the protected cells at AW is rated at 750 and the unprotected ones are only 700? Shouldn't the latter be more since there's more room with no circuits?


----------



## hyperloop

DHart said:


> Smart to NOT engage in the "thinking TOO much syndrome"... you're going to like that K-106, I'm sure, it's a very competent light for a very modest amount of money... a superb choice for those who want to keep costs down.



yeah, i think you're right and it's confirmed, i have lost my Jetbeam Jet I Mk IIx :mecry:hope that whoever finds it appreciates it.


----------



## DHart

I don't think you can really rely on the precision accuracy of the stated capacities of these cells. 

For example, many RCR123 and 14500 cells have stated capacities of 750 mAh, but actually, the 14500 has about 23% greater capacity than the 16340 due to the 23% larger cell volume. You should expect about You can expect to get around 23% longer run time with a 14500 than with a 16340, all else being equal.


----------



## boomhauer

Just received some K-102 with orange protruding tailcaps and MUCH more positive-feeling (not mushy) clickies. Apparently the AKOray folks are listening.


----------



## hyperloop

Just ordered the K-106 yesterday (6th July 2009, Singapore time), so much for "Ships in 1 - 3 days" status is now "back ordered"


----------



## ykb

Hi folks,
I received an Akoray K-103 (sku.23994) from DX yesterday, and was surprised at the quality! Smooth threads, good machining / finish, good tint with smooth beam. 
Mine came with reverse clicky, but I'd read reviews where it was a forward clicky?


----------



## konfusius

hyperloop said:


> Just ordered the K-106 yesterday (6th July 2009, Singapore time), so much for "Ships in 1 - 3 days" status is now "back ordered"


Let me guess ... you've ordered at KD?


----------



## boomhauer

ykb said:


> Hi folks,
> I received an Akoray K-103 (sku.23994) from DX yesterday, and was surprised at the quality! Smooth threads, good machining / finish, good tint with smooth beam.
> Mine came with reverse clicky, but I'd read reviews where it was a forward clicky?


 
True! I just noticed this with my new K-102s. No more forward clicky, but overall I think the switch change is an improvement.


----------



## nanotech17

mine came with reverse clicky from DX about 3 weeks ago :shrug:


----------



## hyperloop

i sent an email to Jerry from KD to tell him to change the status so that buyers wont get all worked up, click the buy button and then be told its back ordered.

That actually falls under misrepresentation and i could probably void the transaction based on that. But, bein a fisherman as well as flashaholic, i have sooome patience 

waiting for my K-106 to arrive man, if its as good as it seems, i'm going to pull the trigger for a AK-16


----------



## oldtimer

Wiggle said:


> Sounds like a bad switch. Pull off the tail cap end and connect the bottom of the battery to the bare metal of the light (using something conductive like a paper clip) and see if it works.



Could you please elaborate on this? I'm a complete idiot when it comes to flashlight and electronics. Do I stick it on the body? How do I turn it on then?


----------



## romteb

Oldtimer my guess is is that you have a bad contact in your switch assembly, either some dirtyness or the metal contacts are bent too much or not enough, it's pretty straightforward to take the switch assembly apart and figure out what can prevent the good contact.


----------



## Wiggle

oldtimer said:


> Could you please elaborate on this? I'm a complete idiot when it comes to flashlight and electronics. Do I stick it on the body? How do I turn it on then?




Hold your AKOray with the bezel down (so the battery doesn't fall out. Remove the end cap (clip end) and get a paper clip. Bend the paper clip so you can touch both the bottom of the battery and the bare metal around the threading. If the light works, the switch is broken or has a problem.


----------



## oldtimer

Wiggle said:


> Hold your AKOray with the bezel down (so the battery doesn't fall out. Remove the end cap (clip end) and get a paper clip. Bend the paper clip so you can touch both the bottom of the battery and the bare metal around the threading. If the light works, the switch is broken or has a problem.



I think there is a problem with the switch. Is it easy to take out to fix? I tried removing the clip so the contacts are closer but it still flickers/not turn on sometimes. Can anyone help? Thanks.


----------



## diverdown

Hello everyone...first time poster here.

My switch has a problem also. My "high" setting is set to full output. When I turn it to high, within a couple of seconds it drops off to about 1/3 output. If I remove the switch and use a paper clip, it works fine. To rule out any switch to body (or battery) contact issues, I removed the switch and connected it to the light using test leads. Again, it drops off after a couple of seconds.

I have taken the switch apart several times. It appears fine. I even stretched the spring to get more pressure on the contacts. No matter what I do, the problem persists.

The switch seems to be low quality but I don't have much experience with flashlight switches. One interesting thing is that it is rated for 1A. With a NiMH, mine draws 1.8A on high.

This flashlight is useless to me as it is now. If anyone has any suggestions, I would be very grateful.

diver


----------



## romteb

Diverdown, i think your switch is fine, what you experienced is probalby the built in protection of the light that throttles down the output.

You can disable the protection by tapping three times on the switch, if my memory serves me well, when the response you get from the three tapping is one flash of light, the protection is off, when the response you get is two flashes of light, the protection is on, just keep giving those three taps till you get only one flash.


----------



## diverdown

romteb said:


> Diverdown, i think your switch is fine, what you experienced is probalby the built in protection of the light that throttles down the output.
> 
> You can disable the protection by tapping three times on the switch, if my memory serves me well, when the response you get from the three tapping is one flash of light, the protection is off, when the response you get is two flashes of light, the protection is on, just keep giving those three taps till you get only one flash.


 
Thank you so much for responding. That was the problem.

I messed with the switch for a long time. I can't believe it was that simple! What is odd though, is that removing the switch from the circuit kept the protection from kicking in. I did not do this just once, I kept testing it without the switch to be sure that it was the problem. I don't think that I will ever understand it, but at least it works now.

Thanks again.

diver


----------



## Vikas Sontakke

Update to my TANK007 TK-701 AAA SSC light:- I

t is still underwhelming with NiMh but what a transformation with 10440 cell! With smoothest transition from hotspot to spill, this is an ideal light for low to medium range usage. Unfortunately, the runtime sucks but I just swap the battery everyday.

For $8.80, it is one of the best bargain out there. For general usage, I do not like throwers as the transition between hotspot and spill is too abrupt for indoor usage.

- Vikas


----------



## p moore

I have had my 106 for about 3 weeks now. I like it alot! I have it mounted on my cell phone case, always right there when I need it. I have run mine on primaries, NiMH,and 14500s. Super bright on a fresh 14500. Out shines my RC-G2II and my RC-N3 single mode. I, like others, just wish it would run forever on a battery 

Paul


----------



## DHart

Three cheers for the K-106.... a wonderfully versatile and remarkable light, for so very little money!!! :thumbsup: 

For, like, 22 bucks or so, including shipping!, this is truly a flashlight no-brainer!


----------



## NonSenCe

and currently the AA model, akoray k106 is 19.39$ at dx. 

last time i checked it was 20.?? and now its even lower! oh so cool. i must resist ordering one again. i do not need it. but the price keeps getting better all the time.


----------



## flatline

Any idea if they're currently shipping the 3 mode programmable or the 6 mode non-programmable?


----------



## slipe

I got mine last week and it was the 3 mode. I think that is all they have shipped for the past few months looking at the comments on DX.


----------



## radar45

Hi, My Akoray AA seems to have a problem. When using AA alkalines strobe works fine, go to high mode it them drops to low mode after about a secong or two. It seems fine on LC 14500 rechargeable Li-iron, but after a while it flashes a couple of times every few seconds. Any thoughts please.


----------



## Wiggle

The alk might not be able to push that current. Do you have any NiMH or Lithium primaries to try?


----------



## Vbeez

My 106 just died. After lens changed, I screwed back the pill and reflector put the AA battery in. Click it , nothing happen. Changed batt with 14500 still nothing happen. I took out the pill and powered it by lab PS, still nothing happen. The light worked perfectly before I took out the pill. 

Anybody experience this before ?


----------



## Wiggle

Inspect the connection to the LED, perhaps somehow a lead came off. That's the only exposed connection I think.


----------



## Slash5

radar45 said:


> Hi, My Akoray AA seems to have a problem. When using AA alkalines strobe works fine, go to high mode it them drops to low mode after about a secong or two. It seems fine on LC 14500 rechargeable Li-iron, but after a while it flashes a couple of times every few seconds. Any thoughts please.


 
Have your turned the battery protection off? It needs to be off for AA's.


----------



## Wiggle

Finally did a run time test on my k109a on lowest-low. Run time was 15 hours on a Trustfire Gray 16340.


----------



## radar45

Slash5 said:


> Have your turned the battery protection off? It needs to be off for AA's.



Hi that seems to have fixed the problem, thanks


----------



## Vbeez

I managed to took out the pill. Made stupid mistake by turning the pill too far till the wire snapped. Pictures tell thousand words







Reconnected the wire. Now it's back on duty.


----------



## pekcle

Vbeez,

Thanks for the useful pictures. I ran a little experiment with the emitter from the K-106. 

I tested out a CREE P4 on light (MTE 1xAA), then I swapped out the emitter with the one from the Akoray. For some reason, the P4 easily blew away the emitter from the P4. How can this be? I am starting to doubt that these are really Q5. I have a feeling that putting a true Q5 or R2 into this thing would improve output significantly. Unfortunately, I don't have any of those that would fit into this light. Did anyone else come up with the same conclusion?


----------



## DHart

My K-106 on high with a 14500 puts out comparable light to other Q5 and R2 lights that I have running 14500.


----------



## Wiggle

Output looked on par with my other Q5 lights:

L2D Turbo







Romisen RC-N3 II Q5






AKO 109 (pre-mod)


The only reason I could see the P4 being brighter is because the AKOs circuit can't boost the AA enough and perhaps its Q5 has a higher Vf than most, while P4 has lower than most. Can you try a 14500?


----------



## deefed

I have a K106 and love it but I'm thinking of getting the AK16. Can someone tell me if I can use a primary li on 3.6v 2400 mah non- rechargeable in it or will it get too hot? I want to use this to give me the highest brightness when I go afield where I won't be able to recharge but I don't want to damage the light.
Will this battery be as bright as a 14500?
Also, can I use this 3.6v battery in my K106?


----------



## mmmflashlights

---------------------


----------



## mmmflashlights

deefed said:


> I have a K106 and love it but I'm thinking of getting the AK16. Can someone tell me if I can use a primary li on 3.6v 2400 mah non- rechargeable in it or will it get too hot? I want to use this to give me the highest brightness when I go afield where I won't be able to recharge but I don't want to damage the light.
> Will this battery be as bright as a 14500?
> Also, can I use this 3.6v battery in my K106?



The kind of battery you're talking about is designed for low drain applications only, they suggest a maximum discharge of only around 150ma. So long story short, it would only be proper to use this type of battery at low output levels - using it at a high discharge level would probably mean both dramatically shortened battery capacity, as well as being dangerous as the battery is not designed for high discharge. If you get an AK16, your best option may be to just bring an extra CR123 primary or AA.


----------



## recDNA

Are there any American distributers who carry AKOray? I don't like DX


----------



## oronocova

I've been carrying the 102 running off a L92 for a while. It's about the right brightness for what I do (working on office equipment.) I just got and have carried a couple times the 103. On 10440 it's just blinding (too bright) for looking inside stuff, on L92 it's quite a bit tamer. Probably more useful to most people with the L92 compared to the 102.

Another guy I work with grabbed it off the floor (I had dropped it) and clicked it on with the energizer lithium in it; "that thing is bright as h---., what is that a 50 watt or something" I suppose compared to his 3xAAA multi 5mm light it is pretty bright. I guess I will have to upgrade him sometime.


----------



## vali

I got a 102 several months ago and I thought it was the perfect keychain light for non flashaholics... but unfortunately it didnt have keychain hole!. :shakehead


----------



## Deathyak

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



cheetokhan said:


> Your AA model is broken. Mine only draws about 700ma from a 14500 cell.
> Mine is the newer programmable model.



I was curious and opened mine up.

Draw was 1.00 amps on high,
.02 amps on low.

If my 14500s are really 900 mah, then I should get around 40 hours on low.

or ~50 minutes on high lol.


----------



## vali

*Re: AKOray AA & AAA Review*



Deathyak said:


> I was curious and opened mine up.
> 
> Draw was 1.00 amps on high,
> .02 amps on low.
> 
> If my 14500s are really 900 mah, then I should get around 40 hours on low.
> 
> or ~50 minutes on high lol.



I got 37 h with an eneloop...


----------



## recDNA

Where did you buy yours?


----------



## vali

I got both in DX, and the K-102 was ordered the first day it was listed (was looking for a decent AAA brighter than the E01).


----------



## recDNA

vali said:


> I got both in DX, and the K-102 was ordered the first day it was listed (was looking for a decent AAA brighter than the E01).


 
I guess there is no American distributer because nobody has mentioned one. Too bad for me. I would have tried one.


----------



## slipe

pekcle said:


> Vbeez,
> 
> Thanks for the useful pictures. I ran a little experiment with the emitter from the K-106.
> 
> I tested out a CREE P4 on light (MTE 1xAA), then I swapped out the emitter with the one from the Akoray. For some reason, the P4 easily blew away the emitter from the P4. How can this be? I am starting to doubt that these are really Q5. I have a feeling that putting a true Q5 or R2 into this thing would improve output significantly. Unfortunately, I don't have any of those that would fit into this light. Did anyone else come up with the same conclusion?


 
I’ve had the same feeling about my K-106. My lightmeter came in so I could do some ceiling bounce comparisons. The readings were from having the meter at a fixed height about eye level and the light at arm’s reach. I’ll eventually get a more standardized setup but the readings are valid for comparison.

Akoray K-106 with 14500: 48
Ultrafire C3 P4 with 14500: 61
Ultrafire A3 Q5 with 10440: 60
Maratac AAA Q5 with 10440: 70 (dropped rapidly to below 60)

I reprogrammed the K-106 to make sure I hadn’t screwed up the high. It ramped up, flashed and went on high. I’m sure I got it right. I also swapped batteries with the C3 before trying again (both recently charged). Results were the same.

The light seems to function fine. I’ve cleaned everything and there has never been any flickering or problems with it.

I’m sure the other folks here know what a Q5 is supposed to look like with 14500s. Akoray is probably like the other Chinese cheapies in that you get Q5s until they run out. Then you get whatever is in the spare bin. You and I seem to have gotten the spare bin versions.

I recently got two C3 P4s and they are odd too. My original one was given away, so I can’t check numbers. But it seemed as bright on alkaline and NiMH as on 14500s. And it was about as bright as the K-106 on either AA or Li-Ion if the Akoray had 14500s. The new batch is much brighter on 10440s and doesn’t seem as bright as the original on AAs. Since I got them to give to friends and family who will use only alkalines it would seem I’ve hit the spare bin with them as well. I might just keep the things and find something else for friends and family. They are pretty bright on Li-Ions.


----------



## vali

recDNA said:


> I guess there is no American distributer because nobody has mentioned one. Too bad for me. I would have tried one.



Yes, there is for the K-109 -> http://www.extremebeamtactical.com/products_sar5.html


----------



## recDNA

vali said:


> Yes, there is for the K-109 ->


 I see nothing at that website about AKORay...only their own products. They also do not say where they are located.


----------



## xenonk

recDNA said:


> I see nothing at that website about AKORay...only their own products. They also do not say where they are located.


They're based in Oregon, and the SAR5's build looks identical to the Akoray K-109 right down to the anodized square threads. They probably sourced them from the same manufacturer under their own brand.



> MSRP: $137.00


:huh:


----------



## txg

I'm searching for an extension tube for my k-106 to get 2AA in there for longer runtimes than with 14500, and hopefully comparable output. 

anybody has an idea where to get such a tube?
i don't guess this one will fit:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4438
?

another interesting idea would be to use a short extension (~15mm) for tossing in a 14650 battery.

too bad i don't own a lathe...


----------



## romteb

txg said:


> i don't guess this one will fit:
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4438
> ?



Threads are different, this will not fit.


----------



## mmmflashlights

I ordered the AK-16 from KaiDomain, just received it. I liked the idea of being able to use 14500, AA, and CR123 primaries all in the same light with only a 1mm diameter increase over the K-106. Putting a battery in it is a bit annoying though, as there is a spring in both the tailcap and the head - I had assumed, and would have preferred, a slightly longer AA shim and spring in the tailcap rather than having a shim and spring both front and back. 

The switch in mine wasn't grounding the best, allowing a very slight flicker. I took out the switch and pushed out the ground contact more so that there'd be better contact with the tailcap body. Seems ok at this point. 

Anyway, I had a couple of questions for owners of the K-106/AK16/etc. 

1. How long does your light need to be off for it to retain the current output setting in 'memory'? Memory works on my AK-16, however the light needs to be off for about 8 seconds, if you turn it back on more quickly it will forward to the next output mode. It's a little annoying compared to my other lights which seem to set the 'memory' setting after just a couple of seconds. I saw one comment relating to memory, but I'd be interested in what other people have timed their lights at in terms of setting the 'memory' mode. 

2. Has anyone been able to judge the approximate efficiency of this circuit, or at least had a good head-to-head test with another light with known efficiency charts? I am, like many others are, big on efficient circuits. Progammability is great, though being relatively efficient is at least as important for most. It seems to perform well from what I can tell, though I would be interested in any actual tests.


----------



## pekcle

mmmflashlights,

I have both the K-106 and the AK-16. I have the same behavior as you, with a long wait for memory to save on both of them. The more annoying thing is the 1 second delay before being able to switch modes after turning it on. I got my K-106 from DX and I get the impression that it is better fit and finish than the AK-16 from KD. My AK-16 acted up on day one. I can't run it on high for very long without it turning itself off. I noticed my AK-16 is brighter than my K-106, even though I threw an R2 in the K-106 (both running NIMH AA). By the way, are you able to access the tailcap on the AK-16? It doesn't seem as accessible as the K-106.


----------



## mmmflashlights

I have both the AK-16 & the K-109 (DX sent it instead of the K-106.......:shakehead ), between those two I can say that they are essentially identical in body, same threads and tailcap switch for example. The K-109 doesn't have a programmable circuit, has easier access to the tailcap switch, and a slightly better beam - my AK-16 has strange 'swirls' or artifacts around the hotspot for some reason, though not a big deal in use.

I'm guessing that the white plastic tailcap 'sleeve' in your K-106 is more like the one in my K-109, it is a lighter weight plastic and slips out fairly easily if you can get a knife edge or similar under the lip. The sleeve in my AK-16 is heavier plastic, and is a very tight fit. Once I got it out, I tried to file off around it a slight amount so that it wouldn't be such a tight fit. So while it was tougher to get out (thought it was glued in at first), it does come out. Not sure if you were talking about this or the entire tailcap assembly, which is ok to take off once I can start unthreading it. 

I haven't tested my light for more than a couple of minutes on 'high' but it hasn't turned itself off as of yet. Are you holding the light when it turns off, or is it just sitting unused? If you don't have a multimeter, you should buy one (should be able to get at least a cheapo one for under $10). I wonder just how much current your AK-16 is drawing. At the moment I have mine set to draw about 40ma/350ma/1.1A at the 3 levels with NiMH.

I'm glad that at least the slow memory saving is normal apparently. Fit and finish seem fine to me, though as I said before I find the double spring design cheesy.


----------



## romteb

pekcle said:


> My AK-16 acted up on day one. I can't run it on high for very long without it turning itself off.


My guess is the protection is on, just tap the switch 3 times, if you get 2 flashes of light the protection is on, if you get one, it's off



pekcle said:


> I noticed my AK-16 is brighter than my K-106, even though I threw an R2 in the K-106 (both running NIMH AA).


If you can use li-ion your light will be much better, they are not so good on nimh.



pekcle said:


> By the way, are you able to access the tailcap on the AK-16? It doesn't seem as accessible as the K-106.


Unscrew the back off the light, you can use the underside of a mouse pad for grip.


----------



## Egsise

K-106 3-mode programmable runtimes.


----------



## pekcle

romteb,

Thanks for the offering suggestions. The protection is not on, it just cuts off regardless. I don't plan on using 14500 in my K-106. That's why I got the AK-16, since I have RCR123, though problem #1 is preventing me from doing so. I've gotten the tailcap off, but haven't been able to force the plastic part off. It's not as easy as on the K-106 where I just pushed the switch right through. A Fenix tailcap solved all the stiffness problems on the K-106.

It appears the problem with the AK-16 was overtightening the head (I didn't do it that hard, seriously!). Somehow, the edge of the pill and the body no longer made contact. The body must have spread the pill outward. At the moment, I threw a small piece of foil in and it seems to work just fine. I'll repair later. 

Egsise,

That looks pretty good (good enough for me at least). Thanks for sharing.

UPDATE: I got the darn tailcap separated and put in a new one. Takes little force now to switch.


----------



## mmmflashlights

Thanks for the chart Egsise. Unfortunately, without a measured output to compare with another light, the data doesn't tell much. 

pekcle, glad you solved some of your issues. Changing the switch is interesting to me, the switch in the light is a common style but seems particularly small and sensitive in these Akoray lights. Avoiding any flicker & getting good contact can be an issue with this flimsy little switch. Did you put in a Fenix switch, or are you just talking about putting in a different rubber 'button'?


----------



## pekcle

mmmflashlights said:


> Did you put in a Fenix switch, or are you just talking about putting in a different rubber 'button'?



Just the tailcap/button, not the switch. It's too bad they put a crappy CREE in mine. The ring around the dome is browned and spotty. It gives a heavy, thick dark ring in my beam profile. But for now, I'm just glad it's working. Emitter swap should solve the issue later. :twothumbs


----------



## xenonk

pekcle said:


> Just the tailcap/button, not the switch. It's too bad they put a crappy CREE in mine. The ring around the dome is browned and spotty.


Looks like your dome collar's corroded. It may be possible to polish that to a mirror shine, but I wouldn't recommend it due to how small and fragile the emitter assembly is.


----------



## romteb

pekcle said:


> UPDATE: I got the darn tailcap separated and put in a new one. Takes little force now to switch.



That's a great idea, the switch is the only thing i dont like and dont trust on these akorays. oops i just understood you change the tailcap only, true that actioning the switch is a bit hard.

Sorry i wasn't of any help by the way.


----------



## funkychateau

txg said:


> I'm searching for an extension tube for my k-106 to get 2AA in there for longer runtimes than with 14500, and hopefully comparable output.
> 
> anybody has an idea where to get such a tube?
> i don't guess this one will fit:
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4438
> ?
> 
> another interesting idea would be to use a short extension (~15mm) for tossing in a 14650 battery.
> 
> too bad i don't own a lathe...


 
I have a metal lathe, but have no idea how to cut that style thread. I mostly do pool-cue work, where there is little threading to be done.

I too, think a 2xAA option would be super for this light. It's the brightest, most versatile 1x14500 unit I've ever seen, but the runtime is short. 

I also worry that the regulator is a boost-only and has gone into direct-drive when I drop in a 14500. It's almost as if this wasn't really a designed-in operating condition, but they found it would survive so they listed it as a feature.


----------



## pekcle

romteb said:


> That's a great idea, the switch is the only thing i dont like and dont trust on these akorays. oops i just understood you change the tailcap only, true that actioning the switch is a bit hard.



I replaced the rubber boot. The switch itself isn't that bad. It feels like any other reverse switch i have. However, it looks like it could take another type of switch with just a bit of work. I might do an emitter switch later on to get rid of the dark ring around the hotspot, but I just received my Romisen RC-A4 so it gets my attention first. The quality seems superb for a sub-$15 light. It impresses me more than my RC-N3 Q5.


----------



## mmmflashlights

pekcle said:


> Just the tailcap/button, not the switch. It's too bad they put a crappy CREE in mine. The ring around the dome is browned and spotty. It gives a heavy, thick dark ring in my beam profile. But for now, I'm just glad it's working. Emitter swap should solve the issue later. :twothumbs



My AK16 Cree also has a 'blemished' looking ring. And I also have a splotchy ring around the hotspot, I think I mentioned it in an earlier post. I had noticed the blemished ring when I received the light, but I didn't think that it could be the cause of the darkened ring. I'm not sure I understand how it would impact the beam, but perhaps it does, somehow...


----------



## superpila

Just got my second akoray ak106 (had given the previous one away).
It doesn't look as bright as my Ultrafire C3 SS Q5, which I got in the meanwhile and which suddently became my favourite edc. on 14500 I've measured 0.8A current on the highest setting, versus the 1.2A of the Ultrafire C3. But the weird thing I've noticed is that the emitter is actually smaller! It seems to me that the emitter size is the one of an XPE, while the package is the one of the XRE. Something in between a regular XRE and the XPE.
I took a Picture of three heads: from left to right: Ultrafire C3 ss (xre q5), the akoray ak106 (should be XRE-q5 too) and a aurora sh0030 (xpe q5).
Did someone notice the same issue on his akoray?


----------



## xenonk

superpila said:


> But the weird thing I've noticed is that the emitter is actually smaller!


Looks like one of the new XR-Es using the smaller die: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/234821


----------



## romteb

superpila said:


> on 14500 I've measured 0.8A current on the highest setting, versus the 1.2A of the Ultrafire C3.



It seems that there is not a great homogeneity in the current on high when comparing these akoray lights.

I have 3 of them (K-106, K-109, AK-16) and all three on high with fresh li-ion give ~ 1.9A current, but reading what other people report i see that it's very variable.


----------



## pekcle

mmmflashlights said:


> My AK16 Cree also has a 'blemished' looking ring. And I also have a splotchy ring around the hotspot, I think I mentioned it in an earlier post. I had noticed the blemished ring when I received the light, but I didn't think that it could be the cause of the darkened ring. I'm not sure I understand how it would impact the beam, but perhaps it does, somehow...



I don't know if yours is the same as mine, but my original K-106 had a dark ring around it, too. When I swapped it with an R2, the darking hotspot ring was reduced. The only difference I could tell is that the original had the new, smaller die. The reflectors may not be optimal for the new die size. 

superpila,

I have an AK-16 and K-106. When both using NIMH, the AK-16 is brighter, although I had an R2 in the K-106. I'm guessing that the circuits may vary a bit. Otherwise, I measure my AK-16 with RCR123 to be 0.02A(min based on my trigger finger), 0.25A, and 1.20A(max). My DMM was $4, so you can assume a fairly large margin of error (hence only 2 decimal places).


----------



## superpila

xenonk said:


> Looks like one of the new XR-Es using the smaller die: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/234821



doh! You're right. I had missed that post. Thanks!


----------



## txg

some time ago i've suggested to use an extension tube for getting a 2AA lamp. now, ive measured the current with 2 gp recyko in the lamp (without extension tube, just on the desk) and got a current of 3,4 Amps...this is way too much, it seems like the driver isn't made to work in the range of 2V...


----------



## radu1976

What is the difference between AKORAY K-106 and PDC AK-16 ???
Isn't about the same light ?
My K-106 is in fact a P.D.C. K-105 - that appears being written on the body - . It was got about half a year ago.


----------



## romteb

AK-16 can take AA as well as CR123 format batteries.


----------



## radu1976

romteb said:


> AK-16 can take AA as well as CR123 format batteries.


 
C'est bien a savoir ! Merci !


----------



## nsx

I received my DX lights yesterday (USPS required signature for delivery, for some reason...there was nothing on the packaging that indicated that was necessary  ).

Initial impressions: the K-106 tail buttons are shockingly difficult to press (coming from the silent and easy-to-operate piston drive of the Nitecore D10). The Nitecore also feels like a more substantial light, with better fit and finish, smoother threads, and a UI that's less finicky than the DX lights.

The glow in the dark rubber parts on the 5-mode K-106 are pretty neat, and both the Akorays have surprisingly good quality for sub $20 lights. I'm not sure how well the clips will hold up, but at least they are removable.

I'm going to play with these lights further, but as of right now, if I could only have one light, I'd go with the Nitecore if I could afford it. However, if I couldn't afford the Nitecore, I'd probably be happy settling with the Akorays (I liked the 3-Mode better of the two, since I could program the modes to avoid strobe and SOS).

Here are some pics.

1. Straight out of the packaging:





2. 3-Mode K-106 on the left, 5-Mode in the middle, and D10 on the right:





3. Beam shots:


----------



## Beacon of Light

I don't want to read through all pages of this thread. Can someone tell me what the runtime on low is for either the K-106 or K-109? Thanks.


----------



## mmmflashlights

Beacon of Light said:


> I don't want to read through all pages of this thread. Can someone tell me what the runtime on low is for either the K-106 or K-109? Thanks.



I just measured my K-109 to answer that, I have the more expensive K-109 though both may have the same circuit. With a rechargeable at ~4V, current draw was around 65ma, with a fresh primary CR123 at around 3.2V it was around 80ma, and with an almost shot CR123 at about 2.8V it was around 105ma. So with a decent rechargeable an estimate would be around 9-10 hours, and with a good primary of around 1400ma capacity I'd say around 14-16 hours. 

I don't have the cheaper K-106 (non-programmable) but assuming the same circuit as the K-109 I would estimate maybe a 10% runtime increase with a 14500, and a similar 14-16 hours with an alkaline or high capacity NiMH. 

If you're asking about the programmable K-106, if you set the output as low I've been able to on my light, with either a 14500 or 1.2/1.5 cell you should be able to achieve 40-60 hours.


----------



## vali

Beacon of Light said:


> I don't want to read through all pages of this thread. Can someone tell me what the runtime on low is for either the K-106 or K-109? Thanks.



I got 37 hours with the programmable K-106 and an eneloop. Some days ago someone tested one of the same model and got only 26 hours (IIRC).

In practical use they last almost forever. I use it as a vampire for some "used" alkies a friend gave me and they run for a long long time.


----------



## squaat

just got my order of akoray k 106's from DX the other day.

I have to say I'm impressed. I ordered 5 of these babies and all are destined to be gifts for non-flashaholics. I think it should blow them away. almost tempted to keep one for myself.

My initial impressions are:

*Beam Pattern
*Hot spot seems tighter than my l2d, but the spill area seems to be wider. Hard to visually judge any practical throw advantage over the l2d. Does definitely throw further than my LD01 though.

Beam is a tad ringy, especially around the hotspot, but in practical use it is unnoticable.

Looking at the emitter it seems smaller than the emitter in my l2d q5 and ld01 (both are xr-e) not sure if this is an xp-e or not, but it would explain the tighter hot spot.

*Beam color
*Very cold*, *I'd almost say a blueish tinge. Though the blueness is only noticable when compared side by side with my l2d, which is on the slightly warmer side of cool.

The low isn't as low as I'd like it, and it seems brighter than my l2d low, though that could just be tint playing with me.
*
Build Quality
*Very highespecially for a sub $20 light. Seriously they could easily sell this in a regular hardware store (though they'd probably need to make it non programable).

When it comes to cheap lights I expect rough finishing (burs, crappy threads, bad anodization) but this is a very good example. The only cheap looking thing is the plastic bit on the end of the clip... are you meant to remove that?

All 5 samples had great threads and i like how easy it is to remove the clip.
*
Programming problems / issues.*

Its very hard to get medium set right. And many times I end up getting low -> max -> max when I try for low -> med -> max. 

Actually it's almost buggy, many times I'll end up with low -> max -> max even when I'm 100% sure that mode 2 was not programmed for max! (in one case I was trying out low -> low -> low and I got low -> max -> max!) Usually the problem goes away if I re-program it for something totally different (eg max -> strobe -> SOS) and then try again. 

Oh and as others have mentioned the ramp speed is way too fast. (my wish was that it was at least 2 or 3 times slower with a pause at low and medium)

Actually it's a tad frustrating at times.

*Da Button
*I have no probs with the button. Yes it's not as clickable as a protuding clicky, but it does the job for me. Could be an issue for people with big hands.

*Conclusion
*Personally I prefer the beam pattern and color of my l2d. Though the finishing on Akoray is very good. Time will tell how well the anodization holds up.

The programibility would be better if it wasn't so buggy and the ramping wasn't so fast.

I'm not a fan of the memory mode and I wish it didn't have that. But for my purposes (pre programmed as gifts for non flashaholics) this flashlight is awesome. Bang for buck you can't go wrong here. Heck these would be awesome as a backup light in a car... perhaps I should order some more.


----------



## sparkysko

Medium should be within 1-2 seconds of seeing the light ramp up start. You really should use a multimeter. I believe the ramp up is linear, and our eyesight is logarithmic, so it is difficult.

Harbor freight has decent multimeters for $4 this week, makes programming a cinch. 


What's weird, is if you set the medium to be half power with nimh, it will be 1/4th power with li-ion. (700mA nimh, goes to 150mA with li-ion, which is 1/4th of the ~600mA max)


----------



## mmmflashlights

squaat, you may not be getting your lights set as low as possible, as I believe they can be set a bit lower than a L2D. It was mentioned earlier that a lower voltage NiMH, the lowest low setting may not be available. You should try setting with a fresh Alkaline or LiIon and see if you can get a lower setting. I agree that it would be nice if ramping was slower.


----------



## squaat

mmmflashlights said:


> squaat, you may not be getting your lights set as low as possible, as I believe they can be set a bit lower than a L2D. It was mentioned earlier that a lower voltage NiMH, the lowest low setting may not be available. You should try setting with a fresh Alkaline or LiIon and see if you can get a lower setting. I agree that it would be nice if ramping was slower.



Ahhh I managed to miss that tid-bit. So I tried it with a Energizer Lithium and voila! lower low. Even works with an eneloop back in there.

Thanks for the tip!


----------



## sparkysko

Apparently there's different drivers.

Some people have gotten Akoray 106's which seemingly go into direct drive with 14500, I'm convinced the newer ones have buck/boost based on the flat output on 14500 until the battery LVC kicks in.

The runtime chart is a little hard to see on high with NIMH so I thought I'd do my own test.

Using rayovac 4.0 (Supposedly LSD) fresh off the charger, 2100 mAh. 

Light quickly dropped to 90% within the first 15 minutes, then stayed within 80-90 percent for the first ~1.5 hours, then reached the 50% brightness at the 2 hour mark. 

100%
90% - 15 minutes
84% - 60 minutes
78% - 90 minutes
73% - 105 minutes

Here's my notepad data with my datapoints. Lux / 10 readings at about 1/2 meter

360 at 2:21
320 at 2:38
308 at 3:06
302 at 3:23
298 at 3:30
296 at 3:33
292 at 3:37
287 at 3:42
288 at 3:46
285 at 3:48
282 at 3:52
278 at 3:56
272 at 4:00
263 at 4:04
253 at 4:09
232 at 4:14
205 at 4:17
180 at 4:21 end test.


----------



## Kilovolt

I got yesterday from DX an Akoray K-106 and I surely like it.

I've gone quickly through the above 362 posts, the search and the DX forum but I failed to find a single place where the programming sequences are summarized. 
Is there such a place? :candle:

Otherwise, can anyone confirm that with the light on:

- 3 taps on the switch - low voltage protection
- 4 taps - reset to factory levels
- 5 or 6 taps - actual programming for the three levels
- ......

Thanks.


----------



## xcnick

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3103233

nice thread with many instructions.

I will cross post it here at the risk of annoying.

Akoray programming: 

6 half-press or tap for programming the 3 modes (5 taps seems to do the same thing):
3 Programmable modes, choice of 6. Any Brightness, 100% brightness, Slow Flash, Fast Flash, Strobe (variable), SOSOS.

You can program 3 modes from the 6 that are available.
1) Turn light on.
2) Quickly tap the switch 6 times. A tap is a half press something short of clicking it on and off.
3) The light will flash ONE time and then cycle through the following 6 modes:

0->100% gradual ramp
100%
slow blink
fast blink
slow->fast strobe gradual ramp
SOS
4) When it gets to the mode you want, tap the switch once. This locks in your selection for mode ONE.
5) The light will flash TWO times indicating that you are about to choose mode two.
6) Wait for the light to reach the mode you want for mode TWO and tap the switch once.
7) The light will flash THREE times indicating that you are about to choose mode three.
8) Wait for the light to reach the mode you want for mode THREE and tap the switch once.
9) Turn off the light. Then wait a few seconds for it to get out of mode selection.

You can program any combination you want, e.g., if all you want is an on/off light that is always at 100% brightness simply program all 3 modes to 100% brightness. If you want a light that is always in strobe mode simply program all 3 modes to strobe. 


It will remember the last mode you used if you wait a few seconds before turning it back on. If you turn it back on too quickly it goes to the next mode. I like to leave it on Medium with Medium set to the level I use most often.

Setting Low is difficult because it ramps up very quickly. To catch the lowest possible level you have to be very fast with your tap.

3 half-press or tap for battery protection (4 taps seems to the same thing)
[FONT=&quot]Turn on, tap 3 times. Goes dark for a second then flashes once or twice. One flash means no protection and two means protection on. If you are using protected batteries you can just leave this off and it is a no brainer when changing to primaries. Comes with Protection off so if you are using unprotected 14500 battery you need to turn this on. With Protection on AA batteries will not work. It will turn on for a second then go off. Light is not broken, just tap three times as soon as it goes on, get one flash and protection will be off. Now 1.2, 1.5V primaries will work fine.[/FONT]


----------



## AndrewZorn

(AA version) this is my new favorite flashlight i think, overall...

got it along with a bad batch of 14500s

so put in AA
but it looked awful
tried diff AA
still bad
hardwired up a 16340 and it was awesome
assumed it was just not enough so it sat until today when i decided to try a rechargeable (1.2v) AA

and wow bright, so it turns out after doing more swaps that BOTH the batts i had tried originally just both happened to be bad.

beam is warm with a greenish tint, but still great for the size and the fact that its a single AA... hope for even better when i get replacement li-ions...

i removed the clip so its my ideal, a rollable, uniform tube light. so small. nice build quality.


the problem: when comparing models i thought that the one i ordered was 1 MODE, compared to the 6mode/3prog one. i thought i would be the unlucky one to get an actual 6mode, that i like 1mode more anyway, and the GITD cap is cool. well, eventually i realized i read it wrong and that it was 5 mode. of COURSE i would rather have hi/med/superlo than this stupid 5 modes... but i still like it a lot.
*
stupid question coming up...*
i feel like i still do not understand how to change modes with a reverse clicky. seems really annoying.
on my other lights, basically tapping changes modes, but if i want to turn off BUT NOT ADVANCE TO THE NEXT MODE (for the next time i turn it on) i have to HOLD it in for about a second THEN click it off.
is this really how it's done?
because on this one, which seems to follow the same rule, it's even harder to do because of the tactility. sometimes when i momentary-off it, i just get a momentary off instead of a mode change.
i feel really dumb but i must ask.


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## squaat

AndrewZorn said:


> (
> i feel like i still do not understand how to change modes with a reverse clicky. seems really annoying.
> on my other lights, basically tapping changes modes, but if i want to turn off BUT NOT ADVANCE TO THE NEXT MODE (for the next time i turn it on) i have to HOLD it in for about a second THEN click it off.
> is this really how it's done?
> because on this one, which seems to follow the same rule, it's even harder to do because of the tactility. sometimes when i momentary-off it, i just get a momentary off instead of a mode change.
> i feel really dumb but i must ask.



Are you perhaps turning on the light again within the next couple of seconds. Most reverse clicky multimode lights will switch modes if you turn off the flashlight and then turn it on within a couple of seconds. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe for this light you'll have to wait at least 5 secs.

The other problem could be the second or so delay to recognize mode changes when you intially turn on the light. I believe the delay only occurs if you cold start the light (ie: haven't had it on in awhile). so if you cold start the light, no mode changes will be recognized for until the delay is up...ie: a second or so.

Hope that helps


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## AndrewZorn

Yes, leaving it off for 5 seconds will NOT trigger a mode change at startup!

Thanks, never thought about it that way. I'm going to have to try this on my MC-E. EDIT same on the MC-E. Guess this is something I missed entirely when trying to figure out the 'standard' mode-change UI. I was trying to test it too rapidly!

So really, holding it down for power-off is doing nothing, right? It's just that I am delaying the power-up by that much? Or is the hold-at-off another thing?


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## compasillo

Regarding AAA k102 model with SSC P9 poor led I have to say it's a very easy to mod flashlight. I replaced the led in a few ones with a XR-E P4 and XP-E Q5 and they rock. Since the driver can admit 10440 batteries the light output reaches 100 lm and over easily (not for an intense use, indeed, but cool) . 

The AA/14500 programmable is a lovely flashlight and there's not much left to say about it (I have a couple of them).


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## vali

How about the runtime in your moded K-102? The thing I liked the most in the K-102 was the fair amout of light with a decent runtime (for a AAA light).


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## compasillo

vali said:


> How about the runtime in your moded K-102? The thing I liked the most in the K-102 was the fair amout of light with a decent runtime (for a AAA light).



In the mods runtime in under 20 min., then just drop to 20-30% output quickly (not very efficient driver, but what would you expect from a $8 light?).
The original k102 with SSC P9 is around 1,5 h (20-25 lm output, not the 60 lm rated by manufacturer).
I've tried a little driver from DX (sku 7881) but there's no room in the pill and it's very difficult to handle for modding.


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## compasillo

kosPap said:


> *AKOray AAA Runtime added at **post 42*
> 
> Well here is a small review of the AKOray AA & AAA flashlights found on DX and KD
> 
> 
> Enjoy, Kostas





Excellent review. Great pictures ! Thank you for your time


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## edz

romteb said:


> My guess is the protection is on, just tap the switch 3 times, if you get 2 flashes of light the protection is on, if you get one, it's off


 
I understand the tapping but. I do not know how to switch to a different program. My protection is ON. Can you explain me how to program it to OFF?

:duh2:


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## vali

compasillo said:


> In the mods runtime in under 20 min., then just drop to 20-30% output quickly (not very efficient driver, but what would you expect from a $8 light?).
> The original k102 with SSC P9 is around 1,5 h (20-25 lm output, not the 60 lm rated by manufacturer).
> I've tried a little driver from DX (sku 7881) but there's no room in the pill and it's very difficult to handle for modding.



only 1.5 h? I did a runtime test with a duracell alkaline and got 2.5+. It was the very first model, ordered the same day they appeared in DX, and I agree with you in the 20-25 lm range. I gave it to my father as a present and he founds it "very brigt".


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## compasillo

vali said:


> only 1.5 h? I did a runtime test with a duracell alkaline and got 2.5+. It was the very first model, ordered the same day they appeared in DX, and I agree with you in the 20-25 lm range. I gave it to my father as a present and he founds it "very brigt".



I've got eight of these flashlights from several batches and dealers (DX/KD). They're changing specs very often. Some of the flashlights, i.e., have a black tail rubber cap reccesed, others an orange one very protruded. Some are very dim and others are not... I don't remeber which I did run the test for runtime but could be with the more powerful (so less runtime). If you use the flashlight in complete darkness then I agree with your father, it's bright . And if use a 10440 battery it can be impressive for someone used to ugly beamshot from old incandescent flashlights...


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## monkeymagic

Hi. My new Akoray 106 does not seem to want to work with a 14500.

I was wondering if anyone else with an Akoray K-106 had this issue.

It works perfectly with a regular alkaline AA, but with a 14500 which I also purchased from DX (Trustfire), it flashes bright once then shuts off. Sometimes if I tap the switch (i.e. changing brightness) it stays on high power, then another tap switches it to a very low-powered and slow strobe, then shuts off at the next tap.

Could it be that the batteries are defective? I charged them until the indicator on the charger flashed green. I don't have a multimeter to check the battery voltage, will probably get one in the next few days. Is there anything else that could be causing this?

Much appreciated.


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## hyperloop

monkeymagic said:


> Hi. My new Akoray 106 does not seem to want to work with a 14500.
> 
> I was wondering if anyone else with an Akoray K-106 had this issue.
> 
> It works perfectly with a regular alkaline AA, but with a 14500 which I also purchased from DX (Trustfire), it flashes bright once then shuts off. Sometimes if I tap the switch (i.e. changing brightness) it stays on high power, then another tap switches it to a very low-powered and slow strobe, then shuts off at the next tap.
> 
> Could it be that the batteries are defective? I charged them until the indicator on the charger flashed green. I don't have a multimeter to check the battery voltage, will probably get one in the next few days. Is there anything else that could be causing this?
> 
> Much appreciated.



sorry to hear about your problem, my K106 is the 3 mode programmable one which i got from KD, no issues running it with primary alkalines, NiMHs, 14500s (although 2 of my 14500s do *not* fit in my Jet I v2.0, they all fit fine in the Akoray, go figure).

Hmm, is your over discharge protection on or off, i suspect its off as it works fine on alkalines, so it may be a cell problem, i have encountered on about 2 - 3 occasions getting defective cells from DX, definitely get a multimeter and test the cells. TIP: if the cells are dead, get a photo of the multimeter reading on the cell and go to DX customer service express, enclose the photo and state defective product. DX sent me replacement cells.


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## dandism

Would an MC-E emitter work in the 5 mode k-106 using 14500?


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## romteb

dandism said:


> Would an MC-E emitter work in the 5 mode k-106 using 14500?



It should, i had the same idea with a P7 and tried it on the K-106 reflector (had to pierce it in the center to fit the P7 dome) but wasn't pleased with the beam (i even tried to sit the P7 higher in the reflector by shortening the base of the reflector only to make the beam worse) so i didn't go on.

I think a specific quad die 18mm diameter or less reflector or optic is required, i don't even know if such a thing exists.


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## AndrewZorn

*DX had a bad batch/shipment of Trustfire 14500*s, I know because after a couple weeks I finally have a replacement set on they way. Then again, mine don't turn on, or indicate they are charging, or anything.


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## Tremendo

I just got a K-106 2 days ago from Deal Extreme. It has the glow in the dark tail cap and o rings, 5 mode, non-programable. AA's work OK, Lithium AA's work well, but on the 14500 it is awesome! Brighter than my Nitecore NDI and my PD20 with a decent beam and smaller spot than my NDI and slightly smaller than the PD20. When I got it, I tested it out a couple times and after 1-2 minutes, it felt dangerously hot for the light on a fresh 14500. I just tested it with a stopwatch with a slightly used 14500, the output looks the same as 2 days ago when compared to other lights, but not near as hot:
Sitting on a desk un touched, except at time intervals.
1:00 very warm head
1:30 a little hot
2:00 still ok, but hot
3:00 hot, but ok still
4:15 getting hotter, still OK
5:00 hotter, still OK
6:00 maybe too hot for LED to be happy, but still can hold head.
7:00 the whole body is now pretty hot, the head can still be held.
After the test my 14500 showed 3.82volts. In a hand it should help take away enough heat to be fine.

Maybe I just need ot be careful with a 14500 in it's 1st few minutes out of the charger as it puts out a few more volts. Killer light either way and dirt cheap.


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## jumpin jack flash

Thanks for the good information,Tremendo.

What is your opinion of the quality and color of the beam, and the operation of the tail switch? I've been considering this light and these two issues are important to me. However, I do know that the tint can vary a good bit from light to light, even within the same model.


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## Tremendo

jumpin jack flash said:


> What is your opinion of the quality and color of the beam, and the operation of the tail switch? I've been considering this light and these two issues are important to me. However, I do know that the tint can vary a good bit from light to light, even within the same model.


My beam is fine, a little bit of CREE rings, but not bad. The reverse clicky switch is deep set, a little harder to press, but tail standable. The light is pretty well built, double o-rings, etc, even though the threading is a little big, seems fine once lubed. Overall it's an absolute winner in the price range. It's a great light for 14500's and a good light for AA's.


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## AndrewZorn

Mine is warm, if not a little greenish... but very very little ringing.

The tailcap is hard to push. The first thing I thought is it seems like you push the rubber in, THEN the switch. Not sure if you have ever done so, but it seems like when replacing the rubber switch cover on a Surefire style light, but the little 'stem' is not long enough... a longer 'stem' makes the switch actuate easier.
It actually takes an effort to click this with my index finger, I pretty much have to hold the light in such a way that I can click it with my thumb.

Not knocking on it though, the overall quality is incredible for $13 (I also have the glowy 5-mode. After figuring out how to finally OPERATE multi-mode, I don't mind the stupid strobes near as much... glad I have the glowy stuff over programmability.).


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## oldtimer

Which R123 are you guys using on this? Which is the best value now?


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## Tremendo

oldtimer said:


> Which R123 are you guys using on this? Which is the best value now?


14500, AW's. It's not a 123 size, simple AA size Lithium Ion.

Mine is a medium press with my thumb, no problem.


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## sparkysko

Both of my K106's have had similar beam color. Warm, maybe slightly blue. Looks good, even compared to my warm tint. (I put in a supposed Q4 5A emitter in mine, and the lux dropped by 30%)

As far as heat, I've only had heat be a problem if I accidentally turn the light on while it's in my pocket (I thought the battery would explode)

Lux was half as bright on nimhs as it was on 14500's, but it depends on the quality of your nimhs.

I have ridiculously big hands, and I can press the button with my thumb without hassle. 

If anyone wants to replace the oring in the head, use the 20mm. The stock o-ring is very skinny however, and doesn't block light. You might get a few percent less light if you put a glow-ring in it.


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## Kilovolt

I have taken my AK-106, put in a freshly charged 14500 (4.20V), placed it upright on my desk and checked the temperature of the head at max level with an IR digital thermometer:

- initial head temp. (= room): 20.5°C
- 1 min: 25.5°C
- 2 min: 28.0°C
- 3 min: 29.5°C
- 4 min: 30.0°C
- 5 min: 31.5°C
- 6 min: 32.0°C
- 7 min: 33.0°C
- 8 min: 34.0°C
- 9 min: 35.0°C
-10 min: 35.0°C
-15 min: 36.5°C

After 15 minutes the light is just slightly warm to the touch. And BTW the output of my specimen with a 14500 is 3,000 lux at 1 meter.


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## monkeymagic

AndrewZorn said:


> *DX had a bad batch/shipment of Trustfire 14500*s, I know because after a couple weeks I finally have a replacement set on they way. Then again, mine don't turn on, or indicate they are charging, or anything.



Thanks for the heads up, I ordered a couple of AW 14500's, I hope they work.


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## Kilovolt

A friend has an Akoray K-106 (3 modes, programmable, delivered Sept.09) that has a reset mode which brings it back to the original factory settings: high - medium - strobe. It is activated with 4 half press - very short pause - 4 half press.

Mine (delivered Oct.09) does not do that. :thinking:


Anyone has experienced this?


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## kosPap

well here is a lok at te Akoray copy, Trustfire F20...

the light was bought for the kid of a friend....I chose it because the Ultrafire copy was not in stock, and I chanced at a more conventional construction (PCB solder on the pill0 in order to get some easier maintanability...

So here it is (next to a Rexlight):

















Thread are still rectangular, smooth but they seem shallower than the original. Also there is saome jiggle of the hed unless it is screwed tight against the body...






Notice the smaller than the socket PCB.







And here is an output comparison with teh Akoray AK-106 and The RAex 2.0 (P4)






Overall and for the price it is a good yet an expendable flashlight....

Enjoy, Kostas


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## compasillo

A worthwhile post Kostas, as usual :thumbsup:


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## mfm

kosPap said:


> well here is a lok at te Akoray copy, Trustfire F20...



Is the PWM noticable?


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## kosPap

hmm that one I forgot to check, not that I am able to notice....stragely i never have noticed the effect...guess I am blessed...

Also the light is out of my hands now....


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## moviles

the current draw with akoray aa with 14500 still be wrong

it cant be 3.52 amp!!!

I have 2 akoray 106 (aa) and current draw with 14500 its 1.1 and 0.9 amp(battery at 4.2v)...and the current draw with ni/mh its arround 1.5-1.7 amp

your readings must be wrong ,acording to your readigs:

akoray aa with eneloop: 1.3v x 1.03 amp= 1.3w....
akoray aa with 14500: 4.2v x 3.52w amp= 14.78w wow more than some p7 flashlights and explosion risk too...


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## romteb

moviles said:


> the current draw with akoray aa with 14500 still be wrong
> 
> it cant be 3.52 amp!!!
> 
> I have 2 akoray 106 (aa) and current draw with 14500 its 1.1 and 0.9 amp(battery at 4.2v)...and the current draw with ni/mh its arround 1.5-1.7 amp
> 
> your readings must be wrong ,acording to your readigs:
> 
> akoray aa with eneloop: 1.3v x 1.03 amp= 1.3w....
> akoray aa with 14500: 4.2v x 3.52w amp= 14.78w wow more than some p7 flashlights and explosion risk too...



In max mode with a Li-ion the akoray probably enters direct drive, if the vf of the led is low enough this kind of current is perfectly possible, one of the 3 modes akoray i received was 2,3A on max with a Li-ion.


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## moviles

romteb said:


> In max mode with a Li-ion the akoray probably enters direct drive, if the vf of the led is low enough this kind of current is perfectly possible, one of the 3 modes akoray i received was 2,3A on max with a Li-ion.




I have 2 akoray 106 3 modes and current draw are low 0.9-1.1 amp
the runtime are arround 45 min

2.3 amp its possible I have 14500 flashlights with current draw around 2 amp (uf a10, uf c3 ss..)

but 3.52 amp???? that must be wrong 

with 3.52 amp the runtime will be 900 mah /3520 ma= 0.25 hours = 15 minutes and it will be warm very fast

and with 3.52 amp the explosion risk...

3.52 amp:duck: this its more powerful than my old uf c3 p7





(now I have it with sku 7882 driver at 2.5 amp for reduce the explosion risk)


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## romteb

I'm not saying it's safe, i'm saying it's possible.


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## moviles

maybe if comes with a led with vf very low....

but I am sure that more of the 95% of the akoray 106 they have a current draw with 14500 less than 2,5 amp


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## kosPap

guys earlier on in this very thread the posibility of the driver characteristics fooloing the DMM was explored...


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## romteb

If the data in the box column are mesured lumens, there is a strong correlation between those numbers and the amp draw, what do you think ?


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## kosPap

measurements are Lux in MY box....

over time I have seen a correlation...

480 Lux is 200 lumens OTF (P60 Q5 drop-isn)
1000 lux is 500 ones (P7 & MC-E)
150 is 90 (itp A3, RC-G2 Q5)check the lin k in mys ig for more measurements...

No, I do not think thewre is correlation between output and A draw..driver efficiency is the biggest part influencing it


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## marven

Reset to factory default settings for Akoray K-106 and Akoray P.D.C. AK-16:
Here


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## compasillo

Thanks for the update, marven


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## Egsise

Egsise said:


> K-106 3-mode programmable runtimes.






mmmflashlights said:


> Thanks for the chart Egsise. Unfortunately, without a measured output to compare with another light, the data doesn't tell much.



Little late but here it is.
In a nutshell, lower output and runtime compared to Fenix 4Sevens and Zebralight.


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## sb56637

How does the runtime of the non-programmable version in its lowest mode compare with the runtime of the programmable Akoray K-106 in its lowest mode? Thanks!


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## romteb

kosPap said:


> measurements are Lux in MY box....
> 
> over time I have seen a correlation...
> 
> 480 Lux is 200 lumens OTF (P60 Q5 drop-isn)
> 1000 lux is 500 ones (P7 & MC-E)
> 150 is 90 (itp A3, RC-G2 Q5)check the lin k in mys ig for more measurements...
> 
> No, I do not think thewre is correlation between output and A draw..driver efficiency is the biggest part influencing it



I suppose you measured the driver efficiency ? A draw and Vf at emitter ? could you share ?

My guess is the light basically enters direct drive on max with a Li-ion, that would explain why one of my previously 1.9A on max akoray is now a 1.2A on max after an emitter change, higher led Vf i suppose.


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## Fallingwater

Uh-oh. I ordered another K-106 last month because I wanted to put the driver in my L-Mini, and I received it the other day, but it seems to be neither what was expected nor what the DX product page says.

It's not programmable, or at least in no way I can find. I half-pressed 5, 6, 10 times, and it just changes mode.
Also, it doesn't have five modes as the DX page says, but six - hi-med-low, fast strobe, weird two-strobe, SOS (sorta).
This is entirely useless to me and I'm quite mad.

I'm going to try writing DX, hopefully they'll agree to send me a programmable one.


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## Gregozedobe

I just received a K-106 and a K109 from DX yesterday. The K-106 is 6 mode (H/M/L plus 3 lots of "christmas lights" flashing !), while the K-109 (Cr123/16340) is 5 mode (H/M/L/Strobe/SOS).

KD currently have the 3 mode programmable versions listed as "in stock", so I might try them (but they cost more then the non-progarammable versions).


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## sb56637

Gregozedobe said:


> I just received a K-106 and a K109 from DX yesterday. The K-106 is 6 mode (H/M/L plus 3 lots of "christmas lights" flashing !), while the K-109 (Cr123/16340) is 5 mode (H/M/L/Strobe/SOS).
> 
> KD currently have the 3 mode programmable versions listed as "in stock", so I might try them (but they cost more then the non-progarammable versions).


A user just reported that he just received a 3-mode programmable K-106 from KD. KD appears to be the most reliable source at the moment, I hope their supplier doesn't dry up.



Fallingwater said:


> I'm going to try writing DX, hopefully they'll agree to send me a programmable one.


Good luck! With all due respect, they seem to have issues understanding terms like "modes" and "programmable". I do not mean to be rude, as the DX customer service folks speak English much better than I speak Mandarin, but realistically there is a language barrier. I already wrote them, asking them to please provide a reliable sku for buying the 3-mode programmable, and they thought I was asking for a refund, or that I had received the wrong one, etc. They don't seem to realize that they have the correct light (6-modes) advertised but that people buy it hoping to get the WRONG one, namely the 3-mode. I actually appear to be one of the last ones to receive a 3-mode programmable from DX.


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## mfm

sb56637 said:


> They don't seem to realize that they have the correct light (6-modes) advertised but that people buy it hoping to get the WRONG one, namely the 3-mode.



So they will certainly laugh hard when someone got what they actually ordered and after that demand that they send him something that he didn't order.


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## Nautic

:thinking:

Maybe he just wonders why people keep ordering the 6 mode light from him, when what they really want are the 3 mode version, which can be had from his neighbour.

At least I do.


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## ky70

Nautic said:


> :thinking:
> 
> Maybe he just wonders why people keep ordering the 6 mode light from him, when what they really want are the 3 mode version, which can be had from his neighbour.
> 
> At least I do.


 

LOL. Guilty as charged. I ordered a couple of months ago and followed the path (reported as successful) taken by a couple of other DXers...I ordered the 6 mode light and immediately created a preship customer service ticket asking DX to ensure that I receive the 3 mode version and to cancel my order if the 3 mode does not exist. Well, about 4 days later I get a reply from DX that my light is on the way and to contact them if I do not receive the light I want and that they would make it right(yikes).

I knew immediately in my head that I would be receiving the 6 mode version (as it's listed in the DX description) and I was right as that's what ended up arriving a few weeks later but I didn't bother contacting them as I was impressed with the light. Lesson learned though...my only issue with DX was that they ignored the pre ship change ticket that I created but after reading M brown's post above, I understand that DX probably read my ticket and had no idea what I was requesting. All ended well though as I gifted the 6 mode vesion to my Brother in law and have the 3 mode version in route from KD.


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## sb56637

ky70 said:


> my only issue with DX is that they ignored the pre ship change ticket that I created but after reading M brown's post above, I understand that DX probably read my ticket and had no idea what I was requesting.


Yep, that's my main complaint with DX, their customer service is SLOW, SLOW, SLOW, and if they don't understand your reply, a week or two later they will respond with "Please be patient, and if you need more help ask in the forums." And unfortunately they usually respond a LONG time after shipping the order, so there's no time to correct anything before the shipment.


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## Nautic

[QUOTE LOL. Guilty as charged. 
All ended well though as I gifted the 6 mode vesion to my Brother in law and have the 3 mode version in route from KD.[/QUOTE]

:wave: 
If both your brother in Law and yourself are satisfied with your lights, all went well after all.


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## mfm

ky70 said:


> my only issue with DX is that they ignored the pre ship change ticket that I created but after reading M brown's post above, I understand that DX probably read my ticket and had no idea what I was requesting.


I would rather prefer that they spend their time actually shipping orders than to run around wasting time doing various tests on unshipped items to conditionally ship them depending on some customers "pre ship change ticket".

You obviously had two choices: Cancel the order or ask before ordering.


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## ky70

mfm said:


> I would rather prefer that they spend their time actually shipping orders than to run around wasting time doing various tests on unshipped items to conditionally ship them depending on some customers "pre ship change ticket".
> 
> You obviously had two choices: Cancel the order or ask before ordering.


 


ky70 said:


> I knew immediately in my head that I would be receiving the 6 mode version (as it's listed in the DX description) and I was right as that's what ended up arriving a few weeks later but I didn't bother contacting them as I was impressed with the light. *Lesson learned*...


 
Well, the third choice worked out to MY satisfaction...I received the 6 mode light, and liked it. Thanks.


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## ky70

Nautic said:


> :wave:
> If both your brother in Law and yourself are satisfied with your lights, all went well after all.


 
I received the 3 mode version from KD today in perfect working/programmable condition. I'm really pleased with this light and I'm glad I didn't give up on trying to find the programmable version. For folks looking for the 3 mode programmable, I suggest you get over to KD and snatch one up. This is likely a fresh batch of 3 mode programmable lights as my order from Feb 26th was delayed as KD waited on more lights from the supplier. Mine shipped out to me on Mar 16th. KD sku = S006967.


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## sb56637

ky70 said:


> I received the 3 mode version from KD today in perfect working/programmable condition. I'm really pleased with this light and I'm glad I didn't give up on trying to find the programmable version. For folks looking for the 3 mode programmable, I suggest you get over to KD and snatch one up. This is likely a fresh batch of 3 mode programmable lights as my order from Feb 26th was delayed as KD waited on more lights from the supplier. Mine shipped out to me on Mar 16th. KD sku = S006967.


Ah great, this is good news. I hope they are still manufacturing these, as you suggest. I was worried that maybe the last batch ran out and they were going to stop making them.


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## kwalker

The head on the left is from a brand new light that won't work. The solder blob is not tall enough to prevent the battery contact so that's not the problem. I'll try to remove the solder, but is there a way I can test this with jumper wires to see if the LED/circuit is bad? How does that brass section come out of the sleeve so I can get to the board and check other connections?
(the one on the right is a working 106 AA)
thx


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## brted

If you have a DMM you could check for continuity between the outer ring and inner ring. If there is continuity, then you have a short between positive and negative, maybe because of the solder.

If there is no continuity you can bypass the switch by putting the positive end of your battery in the middle and then getting any piece of wire and hold it against the neg end of the battery and the other end against the outer ring (or the outside) and it should light up. If so, the problem could be in the switch.

To remove the brass disk you have to melt or remove the solder and then pry at one of the little divots in the side of the brass disk (at 10 and 4 o'clock positions in the picture). But realize the disk is your driver and has wires connecting to the LED, so be careful in removing it or you will tear out a wire.


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## kwalker

I tried putting the positive battery end against the middle contact area and jumper wire from the negative battery end to the threads (and outer ring of the contact surface) and there was no light. 
I used a digital meter and placed the leads as in the picture and got a current read out - so what does that mean? I'll try something else if you have a suggestion, but if nothing else comes in, I may try to pull the brass disk out and inspect what's underneath. If I pull it out, could I put jumper wires directly on the two leads from the circuit board? If no good results there, does that mean the board has a problem? Could I bypass the board and make it one mode with direct connections to the LED leads? ...I'm trying to learn..


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## brted

Looks like a short to me. The outside of the pill shouldn't be positive if the positive end of the battery is touching the middle of the board (make sure it isn't; it looks a little off center). On a light without a short you wouldn't be reading anything.


----------

