# Stainless Steel--what's good for flashlights



## PhotonFanatic (Oct 25, 2007)

Anyone with suggestions as to which type of stainless steel would be good for flashlights. I like shiny, so I'm looking for something that produces a nice finish.

I just bought some 416, but I really don't like the looks of it on the lathe--kind of dull, matte surface. I don't know if it will sand and polish up to a nice shine, but compared to Ti and AL, the surface quality that I'm seeing so far is unimpressive.


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## eyeeatingfish (Oct 25, 2007)

Steel is a much harder metal. Most if not all metals can be sanded and polished to the point that you get a skiny exterior.
Steel is a bit heavier than aluminum and frankly im not sure if there would be many advantages to steel. 

I dont know what steel would be best, but you want something very rust resistant. A 420 steel would do that pretty well and is cheap steel.

It will just take longer to get to a nice shiny finish.


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## RPM (Oct 26, 2007)

Fred... 

As you found, 416 is junk. Gummy and tough to get a good finish. It also corrodes quite easily. I used 13-8 on my bezels and it polishes up quite nicely. I only used it because I had a bunch of "bar ends" around. Similar to that would be 17-4. For ease of machining, 303 would be a good choice.

Lots of reading available... I googled "types of stainless steel" and found loads.

Here's a couple links I found informative:

http://www.lenntech.com/Stainless-steel.htm

http://www.bosunsupplies.com/StainlessInfo2.cfm


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## Rothrandir (Oct 26, 2007)

A-286. Trust me.


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## aljsk8 (Oct 26, 2007)

Fred

i dont know the answer to this question

but im glad your asking it - i think you know why!

Alex


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## PhotonFanatic (Oct 26, 2007)

RPM said:


> Fred...
> 
> As you found, 416 is junk. Gummy and tough to get a good finish. It also corrodes quite easily. I used 13-8 on my bezels and it polishes up quite nicely. I only used it because I had a bunch of "bar ends" around. Similar to that would be 17-4. For ease of machining, 303 would be a good choice.
> 
> . . .




Thanks for the confirmation that 416 stinks--I thought it was me and my technique. 

Rothrandir, 

Taking your and RPM's advice, so I'll order a some A286 and some 303, and then see which I like.

Good to have some pros on board. :twothumbs


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## scott.cr (Oct 26, 2007)

PhotonFanatic said:


> Anyone with suggestions as to which type of stainless steel would be good for flashlights.



I was wondering, what speed, feed and tool bit are you using? I once turned a piece of 303 on my lathe using TiN bits (making a small-diameter pin) and the surface finish was awful. HSS made a better finish but it still took a lot of polishing plus a few minutes on the paper buffing wheel to get the "chrome like" finish I was after.


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## yellow (Oct 26, 2007)

more weight
less heatsinking capability
not anodizable
harder to work on
... steel is junk - for Flashlights


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## Data (Oct 26, 2007)

one of these is 6al-4v titanium and the other is 304 stainless steel


Roth, please tell me about A-286


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## DM51 (Oct 26, 2007)

aljsk8 said:


> Fred
> 
> i dont know the answer to this question
> 
> ...


Presumably this is for your project, Alex - I am looking forward to reading about it as it progresses.


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## aljsk8 (Oct 26, 2007)

i disagree (with yellow)

heavy is good (light weigh can give a feel of inferior quality)
install a good heatsink and for some applications there will be no problem.

people have this aluminum vs steel argument when it comes to bike frames - 
steel is real! 100 years proves it

plus stainless steel looks so much nicer

but also i have a funny feeling this is not for a flashlight as such
(well not just yet)

rant over

51 - this weekend im going to have to make a final decision on this (to go ahead or not)


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## PhotonFanatic (Oct 26, 2007)

yellow said:


> more weight
> less heatsinking capability
> not anodizable
> harder to work on
> ... steel is junk - for Flashlights



There is no need for thermal transfer in the 'light' that I am making--it uses a Tritium sphere as the light source--heatless.

SS is beautiful, when you have the right kind with the right finish--which is what I'm looking for. And as for being hard to work on, SS can't be any harder to handle than Ti, imo.


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## PhotonFanatic (Oct 26, 2007)

Data said:


> one of these is 6al-4v titanium and the other is 304 stainless steel
> 
> 
> Roth, please tell me about A-286



OK, I'll bite--which is which? Very nice job, as always.


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## Data (Oct 26, 2007)

PhotonFanatic said:


> OK, I'll bite--which is which? Very nice job, as always.



It is hard to to tell them apart even if you are holding them. I forget which is the SS, it is in one of my posts somewhere. The 304 was harder on the tools, both polished up very well but the 304 SS took more polishing time.

Cheers
Dave


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## Rothrandir (Oct 26, 2007)

PhotonFanatic said:


> Thanks for the confirmation that 416 stinks--I thought it was me and my technique.
> 
> Rothrandir,
> 
> ...



NO, WAIT!

I was kidding, DO NOT order A286.

I was hoping someone would come along and call out my joke.

At the last shop I worked, they called it Kryptonite. I swore to myself that I'd never again touch the stuff if I didn't have to.

It really does look awesome after machined, but getting it to that state is a nightmare.
On the part I was making, the turning wasn't so bad, but the boring bar (.187 diameter or so) would take a poop every .250" of cutting (and the part was .500 long). Really sucks when you're trying to hold +/-.0002 tolerance and a 32 or better surface finish.


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## McGizmo (Oct 26, 2007)

Just got here and was surprised at the sugestion of A286. I recall when I worked for an aerospace fastener mfg. we had some A286 parts and I have seen it referenced in some high strength applications. 17-4 PH is another exotic. These might be magnetic as I recall?!?! :thinking: :shrug:

If the selection is based on corrosion and lack of maintenance, I am surprised 316 wasn't mentioned?!? It may not have the strengths of the typical 18-8 stainless steels (303. 304 etc) but it beats them hands down in corrosive environments. :shrug:

*EDIT:* 316 will polish up looking like chrome and hold up rather well. It can scratch of course.


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## Data (Oct 26, 2007)

McGizmo said:


> Just got here and was surprised at the sugestion of A286. I recall when I worked for an aerospace fastener mfg. we had some A286 parts and I have seen it referenced in some high strength applications. 17-4 PH is another exotic. These might be magnetic as I recall?!?! :thinking: :shrug:
> 
> If the selection is based on corrosion and lack of maintenance, I am surprised 316 wasn't mentioned?!? It may not have the strengths of the typical 18-8 stainless steels (303. 304 etc) but it beats them hands down in corrosive environments. :shrug:
> 
> *EDIT:* 316 will polish up looking like chrome and hold up rather well. It can scratch of course.



316 is wonderful, they use it for knives and watches.


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## dom (Oct 27, 2007)

Ugima 316 and 304 could be worth a look as well. They call it free-cutting.
Think there is something added to it so it machines easier.
http://www.uginestainless.com/pro_bar.html


We used alot of the 304 -great stuff -cut like butter and polishes well.
I also used this on the handles when making knives .
Though it was a little soft for that application.

Cheers
Dom


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## PhotonFanatic (Oct 27, 2007)

Thanks, Dom. 

The Ugima stainless steels sound quite good for my needs. Hopefully they will let me order a reasonably small amount.


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## jayb79 (Oct 27, 2007)

304 is a lot cheaper then 303 here is a place were you can order small quantities.
https://www.metalsdepot.com/products/stainless2.phtml?page=round&LimAcc= &aident=

Peterson Steel in Worcester is also a good place for small quantities. They have no minimums.
http://www.petersonsteel.com/AboutUs.asp


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