# Comments on E1E + Lumens Factory HO-E1A?



## JNewell (Jul 23, 2007)

Would love to hear user reports and/or see any beamshots, etc.

Thanks!


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## senna94 (Jul 23, 2007)

I am running my E1e with the EO-E1R and an RCR123A and can tell you it puts out a beautiful white artifact free beam. Best of all it is rechargeable and if I need extended incandescent runtimes I just drop a 17670 in my L4 body and put the E1e head with this lamp on it. Great lamp!!!!!!!!!!
:thumbsup:


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## jlomein (Jul 24, 2007)

senna94 said:


> I am running my E1e with the EO-E1R and an RCR123A and can tell you it puts out a beautiful white artifact free beam. Best of all it is rechargeable and if I need extended incandescent runtimes I just drop a 17670 in my L4 body and put the E1e head with this lamp on it. Great lamp!!!!!!!!!!
> :thumbsup:




I used to run an E1e with the EO-E1R as well. I converted that one to a KL4 head with two stage tailswitch. I now have the EO-E1R on an L4 body powered by a 17670 cell, almost doubling the runtime. I disagree on the white beam comment, I find it to be a little too yellow. For a light this size it has a very good tight hotspot that throws well, and it has a rediculously wide flood that's useful indoors (flood is too dim for outdoors).

If you are looking for the brightest incandescent option in the smallest package, I think it is hard to beat the E1e with EO-E1R. Note that it is not safe to use Fivemega's E2e bipin socket with Strion bulb in the E1e, because the Strion bulb draws 1700ma. Running on a RCR123, the bulb would draw 2.26C, higher than the recommended 2C limit.

If you want to look into Fivemega's E2e bipin socket, you can view/buy it here:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/168327

Personally I think if you want to stay incan, better options arise when you increase in size to at least an E2e. If you stay with the E1e size, I find it better to go LED.

*EDIT:* Corrected error where I mentioned HO-E1R. Everything I talk about in my post is related to the EO-E1R.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Jul 24, 2007)

They are both very white (HO-E1R and EO-E1R) but I prefer to use the HO instead of the EO. Flatter discharge curve and better runtime. Great bulb for hiking.


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## JNewell (Jul 24, 2007)

I appreciate the comments on the bulbs for the rechargeables but would be interested in any more information specifically on the HO-E1A bulb for Li primaries. Thanks!


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Jul 24, 2007)

JNewell said:


> I appreciate the comments on the bulbs for the rechargeables but would be interested in any more information specifically on the HO-E1A bulb for Li primaries. Thanks!


If you have an E1E, it's a damn foolish thing not to buy the HO-E1A. It's a GREAT improvement over the stock lamp, no contest.


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## JNewell (Jul 24, 2007)

Excellent advice  Brighter? Whiter? Smoother beam? More/less throw? I just ordered one from LH and would be interested to hear what to expect.



Outdoors Fanatic said:


> If you have an E1E, it's a damn foolish thing not to buy the HO-E1A. It's a GREAT improvement over the stock lamp, no contest.


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## quokked (Jul 28, 2007)

The beam is a decent amount brighter and whiter 
I've got the LF HO-E1a and the EO-E1a and i prefer the HO -E1a , I just can't get the dang EO series to start in my E1L-WY 

IT's a great little beam, and it runs really well on 3.7V Li-on's


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Jul 28, 2007)

quokked said:


> The beam is a decent amount brighter and whiter
> I've got the LF HO-E1a and the EO-E1a and i prefer the HO -E1a , I just can't get the dang EO series to start in my E1L-WY
> 
> IT's a great little beam, and it runs really well on 3.7V Li-on's


You need AW batteries for the EO-E1R, other brands won't fire it.


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## cue003 (Jul 29, 2007)

So will this combo E1E and HO-E1a run on regular SF 123s? What is the runtime expected?

Thanks

Curtis


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Jul 29, 2007)

cue003 said:


> So will this combo E1E and HO-E1a run on regular SF 123s? What is the runtime expected?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Curtis


One full hour of good light.


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## labrat (Jul 29, 2007)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> You need AW batteries for the EO-E1R, other brands won't fire it.



Cheap Ultrafire *non-protected* rechargeables have no problem firing this up!
Some *protected* rechargeables may have problems firing up high output lamps.


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## JNewell (Jul 31, 2007)

Ordered one from LH. Truly an amazing improvement in the quality of the beam, and much brighter to boot. Worth the give-up in runtime. Highly recommended.


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## :)> (Jul 31, 2007)

I have the Lumens Factory bulb for the E1e that works with primaries and it is a great improvement over the standard bulb. 

I highly recommend it.


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## JNewell (Jul 31, 2007)

Just for clarity, the HO-E1A _is_ the buld for primaries - I don't run rechargeables and wasn't interested in the HO-E1R bulb.


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## Swedpat (Feb 8, 2014)

And so I wake up this thread after 6 and an half years sleep! 

Since several years of enjoying the LED development I am a bit curious to explore the incandescent area. I have several Surefire LED lights, as well as hosts with LED-dropins. E1L Outdoorsman is a great little light. Also I find the predecessor to be cute. According to my experience incandescent light is more natural and pleasant and also I discovered it doesn't need the same amount of lumens for beeing considered as enough bright as LED-light. Still 15lm isn't very much, but then I became aware of this Lumens Factory bulb with 40lm. 
I am a bit tempted to get an E1e Executive Elite and have as well primaries and Tenergy LiFePO4 batteries for the eventual task. 

Is E1E with Lumens Factory HO-E1A bulb still relevant? Anyone who still uses this set?


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## Lucky Jim (Feb 25, 2014)

You may find that the difficult part is getting hold of an E1e as they are becoming quite collectible. It's a great light and has both Incan and LED options if you decide not to use the stock MN01. Personally, I favour the MN01. Good luck finding an E1e - there have been some on the Marketplace lately.


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## ampdude (Mar 1, 2014)

I was never a big fan of the MN01 back in the day, always preferring the MN03 and MN02, but it has grown on me the last couple years. And I commonly run them on 2 AA batteries as well these days.


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## Illum (Mar 1, 2014)

ampdude said:


> I was never a big fan of the MN01 back in the day, always preferring the MN03 and MN02, but it has grown on me the last couple years. And I commonly run them on 2 AA batteries as well these days.



how?

E2L AA with an E1E head?


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## ampdude (Mar 2, 2014)

Illum said:


> how?
> 
> E2L AA with an E1E head?



Yes, an E2L-AA with any incan E-series head. Or any aftermarket E-series 2AA body. Or a 2xP17500 body with a 2AA sleeve.

I'd love a 9 volt E-series in that size with a factory lamp. I have to settle with Lumens Factory with two rechargeables in a E2e body, a Vital Gear FB3 with a E series head and two P17500's, or the aftermarket bodies I can find instead. I always think it's one of the biggest shames on old school Surefire that they never put the E3e into production.


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## Swedpat (Mar 7, 2014)

Lucky Jim said:


> You may find that the difficult part is getting hold of an E1e as they are becoming quite collectible. It's a great light and has both Incan and LED options if you decide not to use the stock MN01. Personally, I favour the MN01. Good luck finding an E1e - there have been some on the Marketplace lately.



Thanks for reply!


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## 325addict (Mar 14, 2014)

I've been using the HO-E1R (3.7V / 50 Lumens) for years! The very best lamp for the E1e in my opinion. It runs for around 45 minutes on one AW 16340. I use this little light as an EDC light all year around. Although I use it regularly, the lamp unit lasts roughly a full year. I just cannot recommend this one enough! This is the way you'll really start enjoying the use of your E1e. Surefire should have made it this way from the start


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## Swedpat (Mar 15, 2014)

Thanks for the input *325addict*! 

I also wondered about using HO-E1A runned by LiFePO4 but don't know if the voltage will be too high. LiFePO4 and HO-E1R should be slightly dimmer but longer lifetime I guess.


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## vicv (Apr 21, 2014)

Yes it would be less bright but I don't think runtime would improve seeing as the lifepo4 cell probably has half the capacity of a lico 16340


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## ampdude (Apr 23, 2014)

For anyone considering the EO-E1R in an E2e with a 17670, the EO-E2R is a significantly brighter option with about the same runtime.

The IMR-E2 is brighter still.

I recommend IMR batteries for all of the above lamps.


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## vicv (Apr 23, 2014)

ampdude said:


> For anyone considering the EO-E1R in an E2e with a 17670, the EO-E2R is a significantly brighter option with about the same runtime.
> 
> The IMR-E2 is brighter still.
> 
> I recommend IMR batteries for all of the above lamps.



Not to be argumentative but a bulb with probably double the wattage run by cells with half the capacity will give equal runtime?


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## ampdude (Apr 23, 2014)

Well, the thing is, the 7.2V bulb is A LOT more efficient than a 3.7V bulb. Side by side the EO-E2R is a lot brighter that the EO-E1R, even though the stated lumens spread is only 40 lumens, 110 vs. 150, it seems like a lot more in person. But you bring up a valid point. I probably overstated the runtime of an EO-E2R on two IMR16340's vs. an EO-E1R on one P17670. The P17670 battery has a huge capacity. But the EO-E1R is also drawing a lot more current off of it to get less lumens. Last I checked the EO-E2R was drawing about 700mA off of the two lithium ion batteries, while I believe the EO-E1R was at least twice that.


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## ampdude (Apr 23, 2014)

I was wrong about the current draw. I just checked the current on a part time EDC of mine, a Vital Gear FB3 with an EO-E2R in a Surefire E series incan head, running off of two AW P17500's and the current I measured was approx. 880ma. Both batteries measured 4.19-4.20V and are healthy low use batteries.

That seems to legitimize my former thought that I seem to remember the EO-E1R drawing a ridiculous amount of current when I measured it once, like 1800mA or something like that. I'm too lazy and tired right now to find one of those lamps and put it into a light to confirm. But it could be more like 1400mA. Which is still a lot of current.


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## vicv (Apr 24, 2014)

Ya. I have an eo-4 and I'm not a big fan. I like LF lamp assemblies but they just don't work well in such a low voltage. It draws over 2a and on my 3400mah aw's I get ought 40min until noticeable dimming


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## ampdude (Apr 24, 2014)

Yea, I think the best use for the high current Lumens Factory low voltage lamps like the EO-E1R are for someone desiring a pocket rocket in an E1e and they don't really care about runtime. The IMR16340 works best for this. In the two cell bodies it's kind of a waste.

For a general use lamp the HO-E1R is a great option with plenty of output for most tasks.


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## recDNA (Aug 21, 2014)

I've never even changed a bulb in an e1e nor e2e. How hard is it to install a higher power bulb? I would prefer to use protected rcr123 but could use imr16340 if necessary.

Thanks.


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## scout24 (Aug 21, 2014)

Bulb falls out with it's base, push new one in place. Done. LF HO-E1R works fine with a regular RCR 16340 or 17670. LF site says 50 minutes with 16340, 110minutes with 17670. Fantastic bulb with even, flat discharge in an E2e (17670). Enjoy!


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## recDNA (Aug 21, 2014)

Thanks! That sounds easy and great. I also found 110 lumen bulb for e2e. Is there a brighter one for 2 x cr123a or 2 x rcr123 that fits the e2e?


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## scout24 (Aug 21, 2014)

Look at the e seriers offerings on the Lumensfactory website. You can go well up from the HO-E1R depending on type and quantity of cell. 2xIMR 123 in an E2e will get you a nice handwarmer. Lots of lumens...


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## recDNA (Aug 21, 2014)

Thanks, I'll check it. These bulbs cannot damage the e2e right? I'm used to led's that burn out if they get too hot.

150 lumens of warm incandescence. Nice!


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## scout24 (Aug 21, 2014)

Used with some common sense, heat is not an issue. IMR E2 shows 350 bulb lumens for 15 minutes but bursts of less would be prudent. 125-150 otf on fresh cells? In an E2e? Nuts...  You don't want to overheat cells or your tail switch with super high current. The older e series teardrop have lexan lenses iirc, and may not tolerate long runs with the higher output offerings. Others have much more experience than I do with the flamethrower bulbs. I'm a 50 lumen long runtime E2e kind of guy. Enjoy!


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## recDNA (Aug 21, 2014)

The 150 lumens model said it only uses .7 amps. That doesn't sound like a lot. I did not see any with 300 lumens. Of course I have no experience with how hot the bulb gets. I'll be using protected AW rcr123 so hopefully the batteries will shut down if too hot. Obviously, if it gets too hot in my hand I will shut it off. Thanks for the warning.


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## scout24 (Aug 21, 2014)

350 lumen bulb is under the "IMR offerings" only to be used with those cells...


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## recDNA (Aug 21, 2014)

I just found a thread that said it ruins the stock switch. I'll stick with the 150 lumens model. Hopefully that won't require a twisty.


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## recDNA (Aug 26, 2014)

Anybody know what year Surefire stopped making the E1E-BK?


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## ElectronGuru (Aug 27, 2014)

You can upgrade the switch to a McClicky for IMR amps (Z57/Z61 mod required)


See post 7:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?314015


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## recDNA (Aug 27, 2014)

Thanks.


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