# Thrunite T20T (XP-G2, 1xCR123A/RCR, Titanium) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO+



## selfbuilt (Aug 22, 2014)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *















The T20T is the latest model in the newly revised T-series from Thrunite. Like the T01S that I recently reviewed, all now feature reverse clicky switches and XP-G2 emitters (cool or neutral white available). The other distinguishing characteristic is that you typically have the choice of aluminum, stainless steel (S), or titanium construction (T) for each model oo: (although I don't know if all are available yet for the T20). 

Note that my review sample was lacking body labels, but I believe these come with the standard black "T20T" labelled on the side of the lights. Let's see how the T20T compares, shall we … 

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


LED: Cree XP-G2 R5, Cool White or Neutral White
Output mode: Firefly: 0.04Lm 100hours; Low: 11Lm 19hours; High: 255Lm 55min.
Uses 1*CR123 /1*RCR123/ 1*16340 battery
Max output: 255 lumens with XP-G2. 
Working voltage: 0.9V-4.2V 
Peak beam intensity: 2730ccd
Peak beam distance: 104m
Reverse polarity protection design to protect from improper battery installation.
Tail-switch and twisting head design. 
Titanium alloy(TC4) body with surface treatment polishing process.
Toughened ultra-clear glass lens with anti-reflective coating.
OP reflector gives perfect flood. 
Removable clip.
Stand on tail to serve as a candle, with the wand covered on the head. 
Impact resistance: 1.5M
Waterproof: IPX8 (2M)
Dimensions: 80.5mm (Length) x 20.0mm (Diameter). 
43g weight (without battery).
MSRP: $59.95






Packaging is the similar to the T10S - stylish, with a light-weight metal case (no clear display window on my sample, though). Inside, in packing foam, is the light, diffuser wand, extra o-ring, pocket clip with screws and mini-Allen key, and manual. 













From left to right: Rayovac CR123A; Thrunite T20T, T10S; Sunwayman C10R; JetBeam RRT-01; Eagletac D25C; Skilhunt DS10.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Thrunite T20T*: Weight: 43.1g, Length: 80.0mm, Width (bezel): 20.0mm
*Thrunite T10S*: Weight: 60.9g, Length: 93.7mm, Width (bezel): 17.8mm

*ArmyTek C1 XP-G*: Weight: 42.6g, Length: 79.8mm , With (bezel): 23.1mm
*Lumintop ED11*: Weight: 44.1g, Length: 83.7, Width (bezel): 21.8mm
*Foursevens QTLC*: Weight 36.4g, Length 84.1mm, Width (bezel) 22.1mm
*Olight S10*: Weight 41.1g, Length: 70.6mm, Width (bezel): 23.0mm
*Sunwayman C10R*: Weight: 57.3g, Length: 76.2mm (no lanyard plug), 82.3mm (with plug), Width (bezel): 25.6mm, Width (head at widest part): 28.6mm
*Eagletac D25C Clicky*: Weight: 30g, Length: 76.0mm, Width (bezel): 20.0mm
*Jetbeam PC10*: Weight: 50.5g, Length: 93.6mm, Width (bezel): 22.6mm

As you can see, the titanium construction of the T20T keeps the weight down compared to the stainless steel T10S. Overall dimensions are still quite reasonable for this class.


















Like T10S, the T20T has a solid build. Titanium is a lighter and stronger metal than stainless steel. Finish on the titanium model is smooth and shiny (compared to brushed finish on the stainless steel model, and black anodizing on the aluminum). Labels are missing on my sample, but shipping versions should have a simple black "T20T" label (i.e., similar to my T10S). As before, there is no knurling to speak of, but there are fluted ridges on the head. This are sufficient to allow you operate the light one-handed (i.e., you can twist the head one-handed). 

As always, I recommend you install the included stainless steel pocket clip on these models – not only does it help with grip, bit it serves as an effective anti-roll device (otherwise, there is nothing to stop rolling). The clip is not very large, and fairly lightweight, but seems to work alright as a pocket clip. It reminds me a lot of the clip that comes on the Jetbeam RRT-0 - and is similarly fastened by a pair of hex screws.

While titanium is great for strength and lightness, one of its disadvantages is that you tend to get more "galling" of the screw threads (i.e., titanium doesn't slide over itself as well as other metals). But my T20T sample is surprisingly good in this regard, compared to other titanium lights I've tested. :thumbsup:

This is particularly important on the new T-series lights from Thrunite, as they can still function as a twisty (i.e., contact is only made when the head is fully tight against the body). So as long as you have the tailswitch clicked on, you can mode switch by simply twisting the head (which is feasible single-handed on my T20T). 

The physical clicky in the tail is located under a metal boot cover. Switch is the reverse-clicky type (i.e., press and release to turn on/off), however you can change modes by a soft-press. Scroll down to the User Interface section for more info.

There are raised lanyard attachment points at the base of the tail, with cut-outs. As such, the lights can all tailstand stably. However, the actual switch is still somewhat recessed (due to the low-profile switch and boot cover).










Like the T10S, the T20T comes with a diffuser wand attachment. This fits securely on the light.










Centering of the XP-G2 cool white emitter was good on my sample (neutral white is also available). The reflector is reasonably deep for the size, and has an orange peel (OP) texturing to help smooth out the beam. Please see my detailed beamshots later in this review.

*User Interface*

The T20T has the same interface as the T10S.

With the head fully tight, turn the light on or off by the tail switch. Switch is basically a reverse clicky switch, so you need to fully press and release to activate the light (i.e., click and release). 

However, you are able to switch modes by either full off/on clicks of the switch, or a partial soft-press and release. Pressure required for the soft press takes a little getting used to, but does work (and is rare on a reverse clicky switch). Mode sequence is Lo > Med > Hi, in repeating sequence.

Thoughtfully, the T10T still works as a twisty-style light – even in titanium form. With the switch clicked in the On position, you can turn the light off/on or change modes by a simple loosen/tighten twist of the head. 

There is mode memory, if you wait at least 2 secs after turning the light off before re-activating. Otherwise, you will simply change modes.

There is no strobe or SOS mode on the T20T.

*Video*: 

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:



As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

*No PWM*

There is no sign of PWM at any output level. The T20T is current-controlled. 

As mentioned above, there is no strobe or SOS mode on the T20T.

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 

1xCR123A





























































1xRCR





























































The T20T has a reasonable beam profile for a 1xCR123A/RCR light. It is a bit "throwier" than the T10S, due to the slightly larger head/reflector. Overall output seems comparable on CR123A and RCR for the T20T - which definitely makes it lower than other recent RCR lights. Scroll down to my detailed testing results.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).











The T20T is not driven as hard on Hi as most other lights I've tested. On CR123A, it is toward the low end of the pack (but not unreasonably so). On RCR however, the T20T definitely trails most of the competition. Peak intensity throw is also reasonable, for the size head. Keep in mind that XP-G/XP-G2 lights show lower output than XM-L/XM-L2 lights on max.

The Lo level is quite low for the class, and is really more of "Moonlight" low level.

Let's see an output breakdown for all levels, relative to the specs:






As you can see, my numbers match pretty well to Thrunite's specs. Again, like the T10S, sequence is more of a Moonlight > Lo > Hi spacing.

It is interesting that they have managed to keep the output so consistent between CR123A and RCR.

*Runtimes*











Runtime on Hi is lower than other lights in this XP-G/XP-G2 class. However, overall output/runtime efficiency seems excellent. :thumbsup: The stabilization pattern is also quite flat on both batteries (which is rare for 1xRCR). 

*Potential Issues*

Light will roll easily, unless you install the pocket clip.

Titanium lights can suffer from "galling" on the screw threads, but my T20T is surprisingly smooth (i.e., comparable to my stainless steel T10S).

There is no real "Med" mode on the T20T.

Pressure required on the switch to "soft-press" through output modes takes some getting used to. However, this is still an improvement over most reverse-clicky lights, where it is not possible at all. And twisty control has also thoughtfully been maintained, even on the titanium and stainless versions.

Max output on 1xRCR is the same as 1xCR123A (and thus lower than most competing lights in this class).

*Preliminary Observations*

The T20T follows in the tradition set by the T10S – these are nice sturdy updates from the thin-walled, twisty-only T-series lights of old. I'm impressed that Thrunite managed keep the twisty-interface available in addition to the clicky control switch (and on all three body builds - aluminum, stainless steel, and titanium). :twothumbs

The clicky switch is the same as the T10S that I reviewed previously. Although it functions as a reverse clicky (i.e., fully press and release to turn on/off), you don't need to do a full "click" to change modes. The ability to "soft press" and release for mode switching is unusual in a reserve clicky (although it does take some practice to get the pressure right for this maneuver). But that's no problem – you can always change modes by a full click, or by a head twist. 

As with the T10S, I find these lights to have a good physical design. The raised head area with fluted indentations help with grip on both models (and grip is quite reasonable). I'm impressed that single-handed mode twisting works even on the titanium build of the T20T. :thumbsup:

Like the T10S, mode spacing is a little unusual (i.e., more of Moonlight – Lo – Hi sequence, without a defined Med mode). But that's still fine with me, since I find the lower levels are what I use the most in an EDC-style light.

In terms of output/runtime performance, the current-controlled circuit worked great in my testing. Runtimes (on Hi) are excellent for the class, and the light shows flat stabilization on both CR123A and RCR. 

Beam pattern is good for a XP-G2 light of this size. No, it is not a heavy thrower,  but it does have a good balance for those who prefer relative throw over flood. No significant beam artifacts or issues on my sample. And the included beam diffuser wand is a nice touch. 

The T20T is a nice build for a titanium light, coupled with a good interface and excellent performance. Like the T10S, I am sure it will be popular here in its various body material choices. :wave: 

----

T20T provided by Thrunite for review.


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## gunga (Aug 22, 2014)

Great review as always!


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## orbital (Aug 22, 2014)

+

_*another super review!!*_

selfbuilt, do you have an 18350 to see if it fits in the T20T?



thanks again:thumbsup:


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## ven (Aug 22, 2014)

Fantastic review as always selfbuilt,i prefer the form factor of the t20 over the t10 lights . I thought it would have had a higher output ,as when i used a 14500 efest in my t10 lights it is brighter(appears brighter to me anyway )than my d25a with a 14500.


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## Javora (Aug 22, 2014)

Great review as always. Just wish it had a forward clicky.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 22, 2014)

orbital said:


> selfbuilt, do you have an 18350 to see if it fits in the T20T?


I'm afraid not - only 16340.



ven said:


> I thought it would have had a higher output ,as when i used a 14500 efest in my t10 lights it is brighter(appears brighter to me anyway )than my d25a with a 14500.


Hmm, haven't tried a 14500 in my T10S (since Thrunite specs show it is not supported). I would guess it probably runs direct drive at a high output. The T20T is fully regulated, in contrast ... although I agree, I would have expect a little more output on RCR.



Javora said:


> Great review as always. Just wish it had a forward clicky.


Well, it's true there is no momentary mode with the reverse clicky ... but you can still switch modes by a half-press (something most reverse clicky lights won't do).


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## blackFFM (Aug 23, 2014)

I don't mind the "low" output on 16340s. 250 lumens is enough in a light this size. More lumens just means that it gets hot sooner.


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## orbital (Aug 23, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> I'm afraid not - only 16340....



+

RE: 18350

Would you like one for your review/reference purposes? 
If so, PM me..



______________________________________________________


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## selfbuilt (Aug 23, 2014)

orbital said:


> Would you like one for your review/reference purposes?


Ah, sorry, just realized I wasn't clear - I've tested 18350, and it doesn't fit. Only 16340 fits. Thanks for the offer, but I've got a couple on hand.


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## ven (Aug 23, 2014)

blackFFM said:


> I don't mind the "low" output on 16340s. 250 lumens is enough in a light this size. More lumens just means that it gets hot sooner.



I do agree black,250lm is enough and some for an edc.

Thanks for making sense selfbuilt,yes being regulated would explain the output,and with being small and ti,makes sense not to push it which would cause it to heat up too quick.

Re-t10s ,yes states up to 3.0v but have found it works well on a 14500,0.2lm is same,medium is like a high and high is.........well higher :laughing: (worth a try eric,packs a nice punch when required)

Thanks again


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## Plato112 (Aug 24, 2014)

Very nice review!
I love the way this thing looks, it is so clean. It almost looks like a surgical instrument.

You say the grip is reasonable but if your hands are wet or really sweaty would it still be ok? It looks so slippery.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 25, 2014)

Plato112 said:


> You say the grip is reasonable but if your hands are wet or really sweaty would it still be ok? It looks so slippery.


That will make it harder. But the new T-series lights are still better than I would have expected, given their appearance.


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## gunga (Sep 6, 2014)

Okay. Got my T20T. A few quick observations. 

- It's really hard to notice, but it's a touch more slippery than the AA version (T10T). Both have machining left but this one has a touch more polishing. It looks good but is a tad
slippery. 
- The levels are a little surprising. Vs the T10T, the moonlight is a touch lower, the low/medium is lower and the high is higher. It's a slightly unusual choice of levels. I do like how the levels are consistent with rcr123 and cr123. 
- The lanyard slot is larger so can fit a larger Trit. 

Overall, quite a nice light!


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


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## selfbuilt (Sep 6, 2014)

Thanks for the comments Mike. Not having the T10T, I was not aware that there was any difference in the finish.


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## gunga (Sep 6, 2014)

*Thrunite T20T (XP-G2, 1xCR123A/RCR, Titanium) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VI...*

Yes. It's very subtle. However, it could also be sample variation. 


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (May 14, 2015)

*Re: Thrunite T20T (XP-G2, 1xCR123A/RCR, Titanium) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VI...*

What is the runtime on the 11lm level? Thrunite says 19h, but this seems suspiciously low. For example, the ZL SC32 has a runtime on 262lm of 1.6h (estimated using CR123a primary), which is almost identical to the Selfbuilt-measured 1:41 on the 255lm also using a CR123a primary.

So why would the T20 run for only 19h on 11lm? The SC32 runs for 70h at 9lm and for 26h at 24lm.


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## selfbuilt (May 14, 2015)

*Re: Thrunite T20T (XP-G2, 1xCR123A/RCR, Titanium) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VI...*



ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> What is the runtime on the 11lm level?


Sorry, I didn't test it. I too expect it will be longer than 19 hours, and my lightbox is in too high demand right now for other lights I'm testing. But I try running it on my desk to see if I can at least get a rough estimate (on RCR).


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (May 14, 2015)

*Re: Thrunite T20T (XP-G2, 1xCR123A/RCR, Titanium) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VI...*



selfbuilt said:


> Sorry, I didn't test it. I too expect it will be longer than 19 hours, and my lightbox is in too high demand right now for other lights I'm testing. But I try running it on my desk to see if I can at least get a rough estimate (on RCR).



Thanks! Would it be possible to measure current draw to get ballpark-approximate runtimes for both the 11lm and even the .04lm level? I recall you did something similar with the V11R.


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## selfbuilt (May 15, 2015)

*Re: Thrunite T20T (XP-G2, 1xCR123A/RCR, Titanium) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VI...*



ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> Thanks! Would it be possible to measure current draw to get ballpark-approximate runtimes for both the 11lm and even the .04lm level? I recall you did something similar with the V11R.


Well, the T20T on Med on an AW RCR (650mAh) didn't last the night, which pegs the max runtime at somewhere <15 hrs in my case.

I have just done initial current measures, and get 3.52mA on Lo and 36.4mA on Med. Those would suggest the stated runtimes in the specs are reasonable.


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (May 15, 2015)

Holy cow. Interesting! It reminds me of the "inefficient medium and low" portion of your latest EagleTac review, D25 AAA.


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