# Fenix P2Dce Comparison Review



## UnknownVT (Apr 16, 2007)

Once again due to the kindness of 4sevens of http://Fenix-Store.com I have a Fenix P2Dce to review -

Packaging -






In the box -




the poly bag contains the lanyard and 2 spare O-rings.

Size -





Heads -





BUT the most appealing feature to me is this "system" pic -





...you may ask isn't the CR123A much fatter than a common AA battery - so how has Fenix managed to make a CR123A body to fit the L1/2Dce head which are AA lights?

Remember that the L1/2Dce head is quite a bit wider than the L1/2T head?
That allows the accomodation of the wider CR123 size.

These photos may help explain things -







at the head end - the P2D body tube shows quite a bit thinner than that for the L1/2D.

At the tail end - the P2D body tube is substantially thinner than the head end, as well as the L1/2D or the L1/2T.

{_*EDIT to ADD*_ - CORRECTION: 
I was told by 4sevens that the P2D body is _NOT_ backwards compatible with the tailcaps from the L1/2T (or L1/2D)- 
the tailcaps from the L1/2T, and L1/2D do not work with this P2D - 
however the tailcap from the P2D does fit and work on the L1/2T, and L1/2D the P2D tailcap is a bit loose on the "L" bodies -
and the L1/2T tailcaps do fit and work on the L1/2D.....}

So now that I've calmed myself down.....
How does the P2Dce perform? (I don't think there are any surprises)

vs. Fenix P1D-CE both on Primary CR123A and Turbo/Highest brightness







not surprisingly they are about the same brightness - the P1Dce does show its dark halo a bit more than the P2Dce

vs. Fenix L2D-CE (NiMH) both Turbo -







again similar brightness - 
but look at the _tint variation_ between the 2 - 
pretty wide difference - 
personally I prefer the more yellow tint of this P2Dce over the apparently more white/cool L2Dce 
(note: this is another L2Dce on loan {different from the linked review sample} courtesy of 4sevens (http://Fenix-Store.com) for this review)

vs. Fenix L1D-CE (NiMH) both Turbo







again no surprises the P2Dce with a 3.0V Lithium CR123A is brighter than the Fenix L1D-CE on a single NiMH AA......

How about a good 3watt Luxeon III?

vs. Fenix L2T (NiHM) on highest brightness








The Fenix L2Dce performed as well as can be expected - there were no surpises - other than the rather wide tint variation between this P2Dce and the L2Dce loaned for this review.

It's obviously nice to have the clicky tail-switch - which makes switching modes very easy - for a trade-off of being slightly longer than the P1Dce.

But for me the most exciting thing is that the head is the same as the L1/2Dce so the head will fit on the L1D, L2D and now the P2D bodies - a single head can be run on 1x, 2xAA and CR123 sized batteries - now that's versatile.......

Part 2* - 3.7V Rechargeable Li-Ion RCR123 - *Post #*20* 
*Current Draw* readings - Post #*31*


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## whc (Apr 16, 2007)

Very nice review, thanks ...


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## supes (Apr 16, 2007)

Again, Excellent review, UnknownVT! I cannot freakin wait for my P2D , this had been the light I've been waiting for a while. 1X CR123a light that I can EDC is the way to go for me. 

I know you just got the lights but I will be patiently waiting for the test with a 3.7 protected RCR123 cell. Go give yourself a break and something to eat first.  

I'm a little skeptical of the thinner bodies though, wonder if it will affect the overall sturdiness of the light?


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## UnknownVT (Apr 16, 2007)

*supes* wrote: _"I know you just got the lights but I will be patiently waiting for the test with a 3.7 protected RCR123 cell. Go give yourself a break and something to eat first.  "_

Thanks, I was just about to...  

As with my review threads I'll be adding further tests/comparisons -
3.7V rechargeable Li-Ion RCR123 is definitely on the agenda - thanks for your patience.

*supes* wrote: _"I'm a little skeptical of the thinner bodies though, wonder if it will affect the overall sturdiness of the light?"_

I think it's really only thin at the threaded tailcap end - 
which means it spends most of its time covered/shielded by the tailcap - this may mean combined it could be stronger than the equivalent thickness of solid aluminum?


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## Ty_Bower (Apr 16, 2007)

I'm looking forward to being able to buy just the P2D body. I'm sure there's a lot of LxD owners out there who want this...


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## LESLIEx317537 (Apr 16, 2007)

Ty_Bower said:


> I'm looking forward to being able to buy just the P2D body. I'm sure there's a lot of LxD owners out there who want this...


Edit..
Fenix-Store says the new P2D body will come with a tailcap and will be <20 dollar range.


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## luminari (Apr 16, 2007)

Great review! I'm sold!


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## LESLIEx317537 (Apr 16, 2007)

Forgot to mention, thanks for the review and pics.
I'm patiently waiting for the P2D body.


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## laur (Apr 16, 2007)

UnknownVT

Can you tell me if the P2D-CE body and tailcap will fit my P1D-CE?? I would like to purchase the body and tailcap ONLY if it will fit my P1D-CE head.

Thanks
laur


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## kurni (Apr 16, 2007)

That was quick; many thanks.

I'm really curious about how thin P2D body at the O-ring groove.


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## LESLIEx317537 (Apr 16, 2007)

laur said:


> UnknownVT
> 
> Can you tell me if the P2D-CE body and tailcap will fit my P1D-CE?? I would like to purchase the body and tailcap ONLY if it will fit my P1D-CE head.
> 
> ...


No, the P2D-CE body and tailcap that Fenix-Store will have later on doesn't fit the P1D-CE. It fits the L1D-CE and L2D-CE.

You can look into getting a Leef body for the P1D-CE at Lighthound.com


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## daveman (Apr 17, 2007)

Very educational beamshots. Does any know how pronounced the "click" is on the clicky? I understand there is definitely a feedback from the finger, but how audible is that "click" noise when the button is depressed? I'm hoping it's on the quiet side.


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## JKL (Apr 17, 2007)

Thanks for the review and beamshots...always a :goodjob:


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## ViReN (Apr 17, 2007)

great comparison review. very nice.


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## Phaserburn (Apr 17, 2007)

thanks, UVT. I'm waiting for my light, and this is a good read.


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## Quickbeam (Apr 17, 2007)

kurni said:


> That was quick; many thanks.
> 
> I'm really curious about how thin P2D body at the O-ring groove.



A good question - the O-ring doesn't sit in a groove per se, but instead rests at about the same level as the threads with a raised area on either side to hold it in place. It has the body center area on one side and a small ridge/shelf on the other side to hold it in place. This shelf on the tailcap side is what keeps the L1/2D tailcaps from fitting. The P2D tailcap has to be a little wider to fit over this shelf and cover the O-ring. The end result is that there is no deep groove for the o-ring which could compromise the structural integrity of the tube and the P2D body (only) has to include the tailcap for existing L1/2D owners to upgrade.

Also, my L2D head also has a slightly more yellowish tint compared to the P2D head I received.


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## Bobdrus (Apr 17, 2007)

The body is it large enough to be used with a RCR123 ?


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## UnknownVT (Apr 17, 2007)

*Bobdrus* wrote: _"The body is it large enough to be used with a RCR123 ?"_

I only have 2 brands of RCR123 to try - they both fit fine -
note: one was fatter and did not fit in the original Nekoname CR123A body for the L1/2T 
see Cree XR-E in Fenix L1/2T (vs. UWAJ, stock) for pics.


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## EVOeight (Apr 18, 2007)

Will 4sevens make a CR2 body for this light? My favorite EDC light currently is an L2P with a CR2 body and three tritium vials. I sure would like a CR2 body for my new *Fenix P2Dce!*


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## UnknownVT (Apr 18, 2007)

*supes* wrote: _"I will be patiently waiting for the test with a 3.7 protected RCR123 cell."_

*Part 2 - 3.7V Rechargeable Li-Ion RCR123*

vs. Fenix P1D-CE on Primary CR123A Highest brightness - *Control Reference*







brightness looks about the same....

Not fair? what about the P1Dce also on 3.7V RCR123?

vs. Fenix P1D-CE both on 3.7V RCR123 - both Turbo/Highest brightness -







again looks about the same level of brightness.

Just out of interest -

vs. Fenix L2D-CE NiMH, both Turbo







similar brightness - again the notice the wide tint variation.

As expected when using 3.7V Rechargeable Li-Ion RCR123 - the P2Dce is about the same level of (highest/turbo) brightness at all level settings (perhaps it goes just perceptibly slightly brighter when switching from the general to the Turbo mode? or it could be the momentary "flash" when switching on or beteween the twist modes?) - 
just as before in the Fenix L1D-CE review the strobe and SOS modes do work the same as on primary batteries.


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## supes (Apr 18, 2007)

Nice long break, must have been a big feast, eh mate? Just kidding. 

Thanks again for doing these excellent reviews, makes a flasholic's life 100 times easier and 10 times harder on the piggybank, but I can see in the dark now! :rock: 

I'm currently camped outside in the yard, near the mailbox waiting for the P2D to come in, any day now. I hope it doesn't rain...


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## audioman (Apr 18, 2007)

Thanks for the great comparison review. very nice :goodjob:


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## LESLIEx317537 (Apr 19, 2007)

Vincent,

Curious if your L1D or L2D is the Cree Edition - CE?

The pics are the body of the tube right? I thought they were the head and tailcap pics.


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## garageguy (Apr 19, 2007)

supes said:


> I'm currently camped outside in the yard, near the mailbox waiting for the P2D to come in, any day now. I hope it doesn't rain...



You shouldn't do that, I used to and it creeps the mailman out. :laughing:


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## UnknownVT (Apr 19, 2007)

*LESLIEx317537* wrote: _"Curious if your L1D or L2D is the Cree Edition - CE?_
_The pics are the body of the tube right? I thought they were the head and tailcap pics."_

Yes they are CE Cree Editions - 
as in : _"vs. __Fenix L1D-CE __(NiMH) both Turbo"_ and _"vs. __Fenix L2D-CE __(NiMH) both Turbo -"_
I thought I was clear in the review - 
I'd be grateful if you can please point out where I was ambiguous/unclear - so I won't do it again?

Same for the photos of the body tube - I thought I was clear in the notes directly underneath the photos - 
was my writing that _UN_clear/ambiguous?


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## LESLIEx317537 (Apr 19, 2007)

No, you were clear. The pictures that show the thickness of the walls of the body. I thought they were the tailcap pics and the head pics. But I soon realized they weren't after I saw no springs.
-Les


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## cliff (Apr 19, 2007)

Gents, I am a bit confused and wonder if I have this right:

Can I take the head off a P2D, screw it on to the body of a L2D, insert two 3.6v 14500 batteries and have it all behave like a P3D?


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## gunga (Apr 19, 2007)

Nope. Cicuitry not designed for that.


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## vhyper007 (Apr 19, 2007)

hi today,
would you mind explaining the rationale for the 2 stops underexposure when convenient for you?
Sincerely,
vhyper


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## LESLIEx317537 (Apr 19, 2007)

cliff said:


> Gents, I am a bit confused and wonder if I have this right:
> 
> Can I take the head off a P2D, screw it on to the body of a L2D, insert two 3.6v 14500 batteries and have it all behave like a P3D?


 
The cree L1D, L2D, and P2D are the same heads.
The P3D is a different head.


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## UnknownVT (Apr 20, 2007)

Current Draw readings at the tailcap -

Primary CR123A 2.96V open circuit
Turbo = 1.38A
Low = 0.05A
Medium = 0.22A
High = 0.55A

3.7V Rechargeable Li-Ion RCR123 4.01V o-c (3.96V @ test end)
Turbo = 0.77-0.82A
Low = 0.42A
Medium = 0.42A
High = 0.42A

ref: Comparison of current draws - 

Post #*40* in Fenix P1D-CE comparison Review

Post #*92* in Fenix L1D-CE Comparison Review

Post #*11* in Fenix L2D-CE Comparison Review


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## mchlwise (Apr 20, 2007)

UnknownVT said:


> Current Draw readings at the tailcap -
> 
> Primary CR123A 2.96V open circuit
> Turbo = 1.38A
> ...



:shrug: 

Could somebody help me out with a translation. 

What does this mean (if anything) for brightness. It appears that it's drawing nearly half on the RCR123 than the primary. 

:candle:


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## UnknownVT (Apr 20, 2007)

*mchlwise* wrote: _"




Could somebody help me out with a translation. _
_What does this mean (if anything) for brightness. It appears that it's drawing nearly half on the RCR123 than the primary.



_"

This is a hard call....

1) when on Primary CR123A - the P2Dce is using its regulation/step-up circuitry to slightly boost the 3V up to the LED's forward voltage (Vf) - so there are some loses due to that. 

Current draw taken at the tailcap is useful as a total current draw from the battery, but it is not necessarily an indication of what the LED is actually drawing - this is dependent on the efficiency of the circuit - approx in the range of 50-80%

2) when using a 3.7V Rechargeable Li-Ion RCR123 - the P2Dce ciruitry is by-passed [because the Vin (battery voltage) exceeds the circuit's set Vout (= LED's Vf)] so in effect the LED is in direct drive - ie: it's just battery directly driving the LED - so the current draw at the tailcap is close to the actual current at the LED.

Current draw at the tailcap gives a reasonable indication of the total consumption from the battery - and may give some indication of battery runtime/life - 
but unless the circuits are the same or behave identically - current draw at the tailcap may not give an indication of relative brightness - current draw at the LED is needed for that.


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## UnknownVT (Apr 22, 2007)

*vhyper007* wrote: _"would you mind explaining the rationale for the 2 stops underexposure"_

On my side-by-side comparison beamshots I use the evaluative auto exposure to take the full exposure shot - 
that gives the "optimum" exposure to try to show the different beam characteristics. 

Since the lights used to compare are similar/close - in the full exposure shot the hotspots are usually grossly over-exposed - so does not compare the difference in brightness that well.

As an attempt to show the difference in brightness the usual way is to take a -2 stops underexposed shot from the full exposure - this usually compares the brightness of the side-spills quite well - but the hotspots are still pretty well over-exposed - although having slightly less exposure often shows up some more characteristics of the beam, like rings etc.

Hope that helps.


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## vhyper007 (Apr 23, 2007)

thanks Vince. That also helps my understanding of photography as well as flashlights.
Regards,
vhyper


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