# Introducing "Draco" - - - PART 2



## modamag

This is the continuation of the Draco Introduction thread. You can view all the specification, pricing and design challenges there.

Here are some photo of what we have achieved





The family lineup ... Bare Ti - TiCN - TiN - Chrome - 24K Gold





Beauty in the rough.





Titanium Draco preview










09-13-2006 Turbo Head Prototype










08-29-2006 Standard body Chromed completion










08-11-2006 Hand polishing results





08-09-2006 Prototype converters





08-04-2006 Sample keychain view





07-14-2006 15 minutes submersible test





Left - McLuxPD / Arc4+ / FF2-CR123 / FF2-CR2 / ArcLS / Exolion / Draco / Draco Lanyardless / Orb-Raw / KI / KI-B / Fenix L0P / Fenix L1P - Right
07-09-2006 Size comparison





06-20-2006 Ti coating decision





05-26-2006 Prototype teaser





05-21-2006 CAD Design


*=== Production Status ===*
Light body Aluminum AA6061 - completed
Ti AAA Extension & Turbo Head - completed
Electro & Hand Polishing - completed
Chrome plating - completed
Laser Engraving - completed

Light body Titanium 6AL-4V - received
Ti AAA Extension & Turbo Head - completed
Electro & Hand Polishing - completed
TiN & TiCN coating - completed
Laser Engraving - received

Saphire Lens - received
McR-11 Reflector - received
Luxeon emitters - received
Electronic converters - received
Custom Orings - received

*=== Update Post ===*
1. CroMagnet teaser prototype pics 1, 2, 3, 4
2. Beam shots @ 3', 6', 14'
3. Pre-Production tuning
4. Prelimimary Pricing Schedule Released
5. Finalized Pricing Schedule Released
6. Submersible, hi/low beam shot
7. Aluminum Chrome plating announcement
8. Deposit/Payment thread.
9. Titanium Draco preview.
10. Draco ... "The Rocket"

*=== Reviews Post ===*
4sevens - Draco -- review in pictures
jeffb - Keychain Light Picture Review
jeffb - Draco, Draco Turbo, MxLuxPD, HDS EDC beamshots
lightrood - Runtime Review


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## goldserve

I love mine so much!! Everyone I've showed it to says It looks great. Then they get hit by the amount of light it puts out


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## modamag

Everyone please review the Payment thread for pertinent information regarding what is needed prior to shipping your Draco - Aluminum version.


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## rscanady

Johnathon, 
Balance paid, order is correct on spreadsheet and my shipping address is in the paypal.

Thanks

Ryan


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## jeffb

Balance shows $0.00; order is correct

Address is same as PayPal..............


Thank You,

jeffb


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## modamag

jeffb,

I know we have most nice ppls in CPF but ...
R U sure you want to post your info in a public forum?

Just for your sig line they would want to make a visit to your place.


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## jeffb

Thanks Jon,

removed, another senior moment!

jeffb


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## Uriah

Hi Johnathon,
Balance is $0 
Spread sheet is correct 
Address is confirmed Paypal address
Thanks Scott


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## loalight

yeppers, balance correct, spreadsheet correct, address correct... light 'em up!


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## StanTeate

I might have to consider getting 2, my gf will want the first one.


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## HEY HEY ITS HENDO

Yep, paid in full
spreadsheet details correct
paypal address is correct (its my mums house, i`m always at work)

Thanks modamag


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## srue

Paid in full, spreadsheet looks good, address in Paypal.

I'm moving to a new house at the end of November. If the shipping date gets fairly close to that, let me know and I'll give you my new address.


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## modamag

I made a major boo boo. I got everything produced (and some complete light assemble) but then I forgot to make the N-AAA spacer. I recently found last Friday.

My mentor (the shop owner) came back from his Euro trip and open the shop to me this weekend. I had to make a choice between making the Ti Draco vs spacer. I oped to make the body at the shop instead (luckily). These Ti battery tubes takes ~15 minutes each to maintain tolerance, minimize vibration and tooling wear. Now only couple more easy components then then Ti will be ready for plating.

As for the spacer, I didn't leave you guys who order the Al out in the cold. I made about 2 dozen spacer yesterday evening on my toy lathe for the first shipment.






The first ten shipment went to the following members:
4sevens, AW, Darkstar, Dr_Joe, frankvz, frisco, jdriller, jeffb, marcspar, pokkuhlag

I will be making another two shipment next week. Still trying to meet the Halloween deadline.


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## Icebreak

May I say again how much this work is appreciated? Yes, I can. Jonathan, your design work, build work and project management are very much appreciated. I saw a pic taken at your recent modfest of the Draco in action in a dark room. It's amazing that much light can come from a torch this tiny.

I've got the original excitement I had years ago the first time I got a Dat2Zip sandwich...like some skilled fellow had built something for me as a favor.


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## Dr_Joe

:twothumbs  :santa: Mine shipped already ! I can't wait to see it !


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## JimH

Definition of the word "ultimate" according to dictionary.com

- representing a limit beyond which further progress is impossible

- not to be improved upon or surpassed; greatest; unsurpassed

- the best, greatest, or most extreme of its kind

I am now the proud owner of 2 "ultimate" lights: 1) the USL (Ultimate Stealth Light), and 2) the UKCL (Ultimate Key Chain Light - a.k.a. Draco)

It just doesn't get any better than this.


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## frisco

Draco #49 Landed in San Francisco !!!!

Wow!!!!!

- Much smaller than I expected !!!
- Much brighter than I expected !!!
- Finish much nicer than I expected !!!
- Much more functional than I expected !!!

Haven't had much time to play with it yet........

Thanks Modamag !!!


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## 4sevens

frisco said:


> Draco #49 Landed in San Francisco !!!!
> 
> Wow!!!!!
> 
> - Much smaller than I expected !!!
> - Much brighter than I expected !!!
> - Finish much nicer than I expected !!!
> - Much more functional than I expected !!!
> 
> Haven't had much time to play with it yet........
> 
> Thanks Modamag !!!


Where are the :kewlpics: ??


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## JimH

It's possible my friend, HulaJoe, may have posted his order in the wrong thread. I'm just posting a link here to make sure it doesn't get missed.

You'll have to admit, he picked a hell of a way to make his first post on CPF - ordered a Draco.


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## Varriano

Are any of these still available. Sorry I was out to lunch on this one until today.

JV


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## JimH

Varriano said:


> Are any of these still available. Sorry I was out to lunch on this one until today.
> 
> JV


Still plenty left. Check here. Scroll down to the blue chart. Pick an unused number, then submit your order and pony up some scheckles.


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## AuroraLite

Hi, Modamag!

Just like to confirm about my order, everything is correct *except* I ordered the two CC board for both my lights instead of the Flupic. The balance is 0(correct).

Thank you for your time, and looking forward to these lights!


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## 4sevens

I posted a review in pictures here: thread


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## StanTeate

Balance is 0.00
Spreadsheet is correct.
Address has been updates on Paypal and sent via PM.
All good to go for shipping.

StanTeate


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## jeffb

Received Draco today............extrermely nice (see 4 7's pix in another thread)

Went directly to my keychain.

Flu-pic appears to have three settings from high to low?

If there is a thread for programming this particular flu-pic, please advise.

Thank You,

jeffb


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## JimH

I don't know if there is an instruction thread or not, but here is the quick and dirty.

Draco flupic has 5 modes. Each mode is arrived at by tunrning the light on that many times. For example, to get to mode 1, just turn the light on. To get to mode 3, tun the light on-off-on-off-on (i.e. 3rd on = mode 3).

Mode 1 is preset to burst mode (approx 650 ma)

Mode 2 is user setable to any of about 10 different levels

Mode 3 is preset to low

Mode 4 is null/blank/not used

Mode 5 is used to set the level of Mode 2 - turn the light on 5 times (no light will show for the 4th on). The light level will ramp all the way up in steps and then ramp down. When the brightness is at the level you want to set for Mode 2, turn the light off and leave it off for a couple of seconds. Mode 2 is now set at the level it was when you turned the light off.


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## FRANKVZ

Thanks Jim, I changed mine by accident as soon as I started playing with it. Modamag Great light!!! :rock:


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## Varriano

Sorry about being so dark on this one, I understand the main menu items but what are the costs for the toppings, fries and various super-size options?

Again I apologize for being so unenlightened.

JV


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## JimH

Varriano said:


> Sorry about being so dark on this one, I understand the main menu items but what are the costs for the toppings, fries and various super-size options?
> 
> Again I apologize for being so unenlightened.
> 
> JV


No problem - all the pricing info is in this post.


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## modamag

Guys, I forgot to attach the User Guide in your Delivery Confirmation email. So here it is just in case if you still need it.




*** Click on the picture for full size ***

*4sevens: *Thanx David for the photography blurp. I've been simply 2bz with work to get home early for a photo shoot. Nice macros BTW.

*JimH: *Thanx Jim for the coverage. I guess I'll have to give you the recipe for those spring roll


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## JimH

modamag said:


> I guess I'll have to give you the recipe for those spring roll



It's about time. I was beginning to wonder how many hoops I would have to jump through to get the recipe for those things. I was just about getting ready to put you on my "restricted beans" list until you coughed up the recipe.


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## Darkstar

The Draco has landed!!!!! Let me say this about that :rock: :wow: :bow: :twothumbs  :thanks: What a beautiful light/design! It is sooo small yet easy to operate 1 handed, the reflector is amazing, the amount of light is stunning, the machining meticulous. OWTF I'm running out of adjectives, all I can say is if you haven't already purchased 1 what are you waiting for this is destined to be a collector's item!!!

Thank you to all involved!!!!


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## modamag

I managed to prepped and packed another dozen of lights. 
They have been shipped to the following members:
darmawaa, dduane, Doc, JeffT, loalight, Luff, milkyspit, Rockwood, schiesz, Tronic, vag, Wong

The final batch (~30 lights) consisting of all the CC converter and U-bin will be done this weekend and ship early next week.


I have also decided to ship the Draco-Al to those members who ordered both Al & Ti version. I want to get these to your hand to play with ASAP.

As for the shipping fee, you can send me a PP for the shipping cost if you like but not necessary, it's totally optional.


When I was packaging these unit, I found a small minor defect on the 10280 cell plastic wrapping. There seems to be quite a few warps causing the cell OD to go way out of tolerance. I have removed couple thou on the OD and set the one that are total wacked (~5%) aside.

So those of you who already have these 10280 cell, please inspect your battery carefully before usage. If the plastic is warped, you can use 500-1000 grit sand paper to take care of it.


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## Thujone

4Sevens took all my toy money but I want a Draco! If by any chance my old football number is still available upon payday I might have to consider it kismet!


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## rscanady

Johnathon, 
Do you know when you will be shipping the Al unit to those of us that ordered both Ti and Al?

Thanks

Ryan


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## Rookwood

ModaMag 

Thanks for the status - I'm excited as heck! 

Draco will be my first keyring light.

Chris


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## jefft

Jonathan, got mine today (#15, Saturday). I don't think I could've gotten it sooner even if I drove to your house from Cupertino to pick it up myself. This is one _really_ nice light. Until you actually hold it in your hand, it's impossible to truly realize how small and bright this thing is. Although it is so tiny, it reeks of precision and craftsmanship. This light was definitely worth the wait. I get the feeling that once word gets out there won't be too many left over. I hope this entire experience was good enough for you to plan future builds. I know I'll be right back in line. :goodjob:


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## JimH

The initaial raeaction I get when I show it to an un-initiated is "boy, that's a cool toy flashlight for your key chain. Then I turn it on, and the attitude shifts from "toy" to "poop, where the hell is all that light coming from."

Jonathan, too bad you couldn;t managte to part the red sea


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## jefft

JimH, that was exactly my first reaction when I turned it on. I had no idea that burst mode was first. (who really reads those instruction things in the beginning anyway?) I was expecting a little starter level when I first turned it on so I was looking directly into it. Took a while before I could see well enough to make out the print on on the instruction card.


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## dduane

Jonathan, #88 is so exciting! It now replaces the Jil Intelli. I rank it up there with the NLS!! And I have the turbo head and battery extension. Nothing can top this... (There's always something up your sleeve)
THANKS Duane
:wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::thumbsup:


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## Morelite

Will the bare Ti Draco's ship before the plated ones since they don't need to be plated?


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## loalight

Yeah, I gotta say my Draco is a huge hit with me. It hangs around my neck now, which makes the first time a light has had that distinction.

CRAZY bright for such a small thing.


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## Luff

Beautiful. Shiny. Bright. USEFUL.
Extraordinary craftsmanship.
Well worth the wait, anticipation and outlay.
Thanks for creating & competently manufacturing the Draco!


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## Rookwood

Jonathan -

This is the coolest light! I can't say enough good things about this little powerhouse. The fit and finish is outstanding - super quality!

My co-workers were stunned to see what something this small could output - the Draco has such nice output and throw, even without the Turbohead.

I will be ordering a second unit soon.

Thank you very much for this one!

Chris

Question: Is it possible for the settings to get out of order? I seem to have the settings go from high to user to burst. I don't mind, but it wasn't like that when I first used it. Also, I noticed that with long intervals in between power on (> 2 seconds) the FluPIC is still operating in sequence.


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## marcspar

My Draco has arrived and I couldn't be more pleased. It is far smaller than I envisioned and the could be from Tiffanys with the jewel'd chrome finish [I have the aluminum one].

The beam is perfect for an edc and the flupic is cool. You can just turn the light on and off - or get more involved with multiple levels and settings.

So far I am still on the original battery after playing/testing with all weekend.

It is not as bright as my usl that arrived the same day, but it fits in my pocket much more comfortably!

Thank you, Modamag, for a great little light at a very fair price.

Now I just have to decide whether to splurge on a titanium one or get another in the aluminum/chrome.

Marc


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## modamag

I fell a little behind this weekend. I anticipated to make the complete final batch but were only able to crank out like half that amount due to other distraction (Gun Show on Saturday and Wood Working Convention on Sunday). Another lame excuse is I ran out of Krytox grease 
So here is the third and hopefully second to last shipment:
chasm22, Dfiorentino, Dogliness, DrJ, jhung, k-2, kiely23+, Leef, M_R, NetMage, Nuutaro, Roboholic, rscanady

They have been shipped to the following members:
darmawaa, dduane, Doc, JeffT, loalight, Luff, milkyspit, Rockwood, schiesz, Tronic, vag, Wong


Thanx all for the complement, it's really uplifting and making the endless hours of design, machining and [email protected]#& assembly all the worth while.

*Morelite: *Unfortunately the engraving process is after the plating. So you're shipment date is still the same.

*Rookwood: *Yes and No. 
No the software is program in that order alrealdy Burst/Usr/Lo/NOP/Set.
Yes that this could happen due to noise.

What I normally look for is the quick flash, ~2-3 seconds after the light have been turn ON. This usually tell me that the next time I turn it on it will have the same setting.


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## jefft

OK, Jonathan, I've just done something that I've never done before. I have purchased a duplicate (well almost, went with a different emitter) light. I haven't felt the need to buy an extra light from anywhere, be it custom or routine retail, until now. PayPal sent for another Draco. (also listed on your purchase thread)
This light is _that_ good.


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## Dr_Joe

I've been so busy lately I haven't had a chance to tell you how fantastic "Draco" is. 

Fit and finish is excellent, and light output and beam quality is nothing short of amazing for anything in this size class.  

The Flupic makes this light as practical as it is amazing ! 

You "knocked one out of the park" with "Draco" Jonathan (Modamag) :bow: :bow: :bow: 

I think you have set a new benchmark, and that the Draco is destined for legendary status. 

Bravo !!  :thumbsup:  :buddies: :wow: :goodjob: :rock:


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## Cliffnopus

Alright...settle down ! You're making me lust for my unshipped Ti Draco..... I'm starting to get flashlight withdrawal.  

Cliff

and that's a good thing.


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## JimH

Dr_Joe, You forgot to tell us whether you "like" the light or not.






BTW, you can take that poop eating grin off your face now


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## Rookwood

Jonathan,

Can you tell us the relative setting intensity between the FluPiC and CC driver settings?

As I understand it, the constant current driver has a High and Low setting - is there a way to compare that to the FluPIC settings?

And speaking of FluPIC, is the Burst mode equal to the highest of the ten user settings?

This light has been used in a power failure! It did very well in my computer lab at work - I was able to go in in near-total darkness and reset the power supplies. I'm so glad I had the Draco.:thumbsup:

Thanks
Chris


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## JimH

Rookwood said:


> Jonathan,
> 
> Can you tell us the relative setting intensity between the FluPiC and CC driver settings?
> 
> As I understand it, the constant current driver has a High and Low setting - is there a way to compare that to the FluPIC settings?


I'll jump in until Jonathan can give you an exact answer. The CC board only has one speed - somewhere in the 300mA to 350mA range. The original design was for 2 speeds, but there was just not enough room on the board to accomplish that.

Burst on the Flupic is in the 600mA range and low is around 40mA. User set level can be anything in between.


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## Rookwood

Cool - thanks, JimH. I'm glad my second light will have the FluPiC.


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## CroMAGnet

*
Way to go is right!! I've been laying low to let the light speak for itself and it looks like its yelling out YES YES YESS!! And I love mine Jonathan! 

I set the Draco on level FIVE which is about half brightness and walked the dog for over half an hour and still had juice when I got back home. 

Another great thing is I set it on level ONE which is VERY low and actually LOWER than the stock low setting. The new FLuPIC version with the slower scrolling through the set level setting is much better too. Way to got Goldserve! 

This will indeed be a classic and there is more to come yet! We still need to hear about the awesome Turbo head and the AAA body size and the wicked Ti versions!! One more thing, I have a sweeet little surprise coming that will be a first, despite what my good friend JimH says. 

-- Stay tuned! ---
*


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## JimH

Tony, you always have been such a tease


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## modamag

Just couple quick production update.

1. I think all the FluPIC orders (that was paid in full as of Sunday) have been shipped.

2. I had a little stumble on the CC light. I forgot to ready the instructions before assembly :duh: It must be the sleep deprevation. After reinstating the instruction verbatim from dat2zip, I was able to assemble 5 units. The assembly of these are a little slower than but the performance is just as great. I showed goldserve a side-by-side comparison between the two unit you can barely tell the difference. Thank you GOD for that log scale brightness response.

3. On the other side of the production front ... Ti Draco. If you like the machining of the Al Draco you will love the finish of the Ti version, I surely did. Personally it will be a very very hard decision for me regarding which Draco to EDC. I tempted to NOT polish these baby ... hum :thinking: 


Final question ... "have anyone tried the Turbo head"? love it? hate it? What's the verdict?


*Rookwood: *The CC setting is most likely a tid bit brighter than any light in similar size and form factor.


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## Cliffnopus

sorry duplicate.


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## Cliffnopus

I'm glad you asked that question Johnathan, I've read all kinds of kind word and praises about Draco but nothing about the Turbo-head. How about it folks, worth it, not worth it ???

And Johnathan, any pics of the assembled TiCN Ti's to whet our appetites ??

Cliff


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## loalight

the turbo head is great. it works especially nicely with the AAA extension. the beam looks beautiful, considerably more focussed.

the reason i didn't mention it is because the Draco w/ McR-11 is just blowing me away. I haven't much felt the need yet for more reflector. perhaps on my next camping trip...

david


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## JimH

modamag said:


> Final question ... "have anyone tried the Turbo head"? love it? hate it? What's the verdict?


Hate it - now I have another impossible decision to make. Do EDC the perfect standard head, or do I EDC the perfect turbo head. My brain is going "tilt". I got a terrible feeling this is going to cost me more money


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## Cliffnopus

JimH said:


> Hate it - now I have another impossible decision to make. Do EDC the perfect standard head, or do I EDC the perfect turbo head. My brain is going "tilt". I got a terrible feeling this is going to cost me more money


C'mon Jim, you know the answer to that one............._BUY BOTH !_ :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: 

Cliff


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## Rookwood

My .02 cents on the Turbohead - I like it a LOT, but not enough to place on my keychain light - my second light will have the AAA extension and Turbohead and likely go in my kit bag.

Since I like to carry my keys in the little 'watch pocket' in my jeans, the Turbohead's size just doesn't work so well for that, but it's not unreasonable if you hang your keys or carry them in a jacket pocket.

I will have to try some beam shots, but the Turbohead fares very well against the HDS 60 I have - it has a more diffused hotspot, but overall is more consistent from center to outer range. The HDS always has a super bright hotspot. The beams compared against a wall at about 3 feet were almost the same size, though I had to turn down the HDS to about 40 lumens (guess) so that they matched up in intensity.

The HDS may have more throw and power, but it would never be in consideration for a keylight. The fact that the Draco can hang in the same ballpark should definitely be noted by anyone considering this light.

I've never taken beamshots, but I'm willing to give it a try this weekend.

Draco Rocks!


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## chasm22

Jonathan,

You've done an incredible job producing this gem. Thanks for all the time and effort you've put into this light and above all thanks for letting us share the rewards of your work. Well done is an understatement.

This is one of those rare lights that has me waiting for nightfall. The turbo head really makes this light quite a little thrower, while still providing good spill.

And thank you for the little extras you included. Bright little things that will come in handy.

Best regards,

Chuck


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## bwaites

I just received a Draco courtesy of milkyspit.

Great little light! A true little jewel of a piece!

Jonathan, any concern that the relatively short threading might come undone and lose the head? Is a slightly thicker o-ring available that might decrease that risk?

Bill


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## modamag

Guys, the reason why I ask about the Turbo head is "I'm having problem deciding whether I want to EDC it or just plane Jane Draco." From the people I showed the Draco too their first impression is WOW! But when I fired up the turbo head then it becomes "HOLY $!&^!".

Bill, if the + contact is properly sized, you got 1 rotation before the the oring no longer engage. And even so after that, you're require to rotate the head another 2 rotation before it completely disengage.

More threads would mean increasing the OD. Prefer not.
A thinker oring will make it will require excessive greasing (due to increase of oring compression force from 15%- 30%).


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## bwaites

Jonathan, thanks!

Great little light, works great! You are going to make an even bigger name for yourself and no one is going to let you leave CPF! 

We will have to send Guido and Franco around to make sure that you have to keep producing these little masterpieces!

Bill


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## Rookwood

Jonathan 

This was my initial reaction after installing the Turbohead as well, but I know this is a family board

I really love the quality of the spill with the Turbo - it's definitely worth getting.

I can't stop finding reasons to use Draco - I've been installing hard drives today, so naturally I've got it pretty warmed up!

I love how I can throw my keyring on my desk, jam my keys in my back pocket and sit on them without worrying that I'll harm Draco as if it were a plastic squeeze light. It's why I can't carry plastic lights. And the Draco is showing NO signs of wear at all - not that I abuse it, but I wasn't expecting it to stay looking like a shelf queen either!

And to echo chasm22, thanks for the extras!

Cheers
Chris




modamag said:


> Guys, the reason why I ask about the Turbo head is "I'm having problem deciding whether I want to EDC it or just plane Jane Draco." From the people I showed the Draco too their first impression is WOW! But when I fired up the turbo head then it becomes "HOLY $!&^!".


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## JimH

bwaites said:


> Jonathan, thanks!
> 
> Great little light, works great! You are going to make an even bigger name for yourself and no one is going to let you leave CPF!
> 
> We will have to send Guido and Franco around to make sure that you have to keep producing these little masterpieces!
> 
> Bill


Let's see - praise for the maker of the UKCL (Utimate Key Chain Light) by the maker of the USL. I'm beginning to smell flashlight hall of fame nominations here. In my book, if the name, or nickname, of the flashlight you made starts with a "U", your a shoe in.


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## srue

Modamag,

Received my light, #21. I am absolutely stunned by the fantastic performance and quality. It's replacing my Firefly 2 on my keychain, and I _love_ my Firefly.

I love the turning action - very smooth. After using the two-stage spring switch on the Firefly, it's so refreshing to have a consistent on/off.

The beam quality is fantastic (U-bin). The hotspot is smooth with an excellent corona. I love the stippled reflector. The color is also fantastic.

Several months ago I sat down and thought about how I would define the perfect light. The size I described as the diameter of an Arc AAA and about 2/3 the length. This is exactly that size. Awesome.

The light is much brighter than I expected (FluPIC version) on burst. I am extremely pleased that it will serve all of my keychain light needs. I was initially worried that it wouldn't be bright enough, but it more than satisfies.

A very minor nit: I think I would prefer if the levels on the FluPIC were reversed, with the brightest last. It's a tough call, and I will probably use burst the most, but there are times when I don't want a bright light even for a moment.

This is the best keychain light I have ever owned. I'm very close to purchasing another one for my wife, who is very jealous. I really appreciate your hard work in putting this all together.

-Stuart

P.S. Thanks for the little "bonus" light. I love little fun things like that.


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## JimH

srue said:


> A very minor nit: I think I would prefer if the levels on the FluPIC were reversed, with the brightest last.


Don't blame Jonathan. Your preference was Jonathan's original design, but we had a mini get together and cromagnet and I beat Jonathan with a wet noodle for hours until he relented and agreed to make the interface the way it currently is.


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## StanTeate

I am overwhelmed by the amount of light output by such a small formfactor. It's really light weight. The TI ones should feel more substantial. I applaud you sir!.


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## SteveStephens

This is a great little light and better than I expected. 

I need to know how to use the turbo head. Unscrew the standard head; then what? The light engine stays in the standard head. How do I get it out so I can put in the turbo? I tried to tap the head against the table but the emitter stays put.

Steve


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## JimH

SteveStephens said:


> This is a great little light and better than I expected.
> 
> I need to know how to use the turbo head. Unscrew the standard head; then what? The light engine stays in the standard head. How do I get it out so I can put in the turbo? I tried to tap the head against the table but the emitter stays put.
> 
> Steve


The Draco is made up of 3 sections:

1. Body
2. Integrated light engine and heat sink
3. Head (includes reflector and lens)






Make sure, when you connect the head to the light engine section, that it is really snug. That way, when turning it on and off, you will only be turning the Body and Light engine sections. The Light engine and head should remain in fixed position relative to each other when turning the light on and off.


----------



## Nuutaro

I recieved Draco.
It's very nice and beautiful and powerful !!
I am really impressed by the exellent work !!!

Thank you.

Shunji Kashiwagi


----------



## tvodrd

Received mine this morning, a day after a PM stating that due to a booboo, it is direct drive, (pocket rocket!) and a replacement LE is forthcoming. This sucker is the same diameter (~1/2") and ~1/8" shorter than the NLS light I did back when, and ~10X brighter! (Weren't no Li 10280 cells or U-bin LuxIIIs then! :sour grapes The NLS made its sorry way onto a couple serious-CPFcelebrity keyrings! This puppy may make it onto mine!

It ain't perfect, but I hope a 2nd gen can be allowed to occur! :thumbsup:

Larry


----------



## SteveStephens

Thanks Jim for explaining how to get the turbo head on. I didn't know the head separated where it does and mine was very tight. This light is on par with your beans!

Steve


----------



## modamag

Final shipment packed and shipped.
AuroraLite, fullogik, helios, heyheyitshendo, jeffb, JeffT, revv11, Rookwood, stevevh

Now for some sleep :sleepy:

*light: *your order is delayed for one week due to insufficient "good" stock of 10280.


----------



## bwaites

JimH said:


> Let's see - praise for the maker of the UKCL (Utimate Key Chain Light) by the maker of the USL. I'm beginning to smell flashlight hall of fame nominations here. In my book, if the name, or nickname, of the flashlight you made starts with a "U", your a shoe in.


 
AHH...but there is a huge difference. I did my light with LOTS of help and guidance from js, Ginseng, and others. From what I can tell, Jonathan did his on his own and has all of them in the owners hands in a miniscule fraction of the time the USL continues to take!

Bravo, Jonathan, Bravo!!!!


----------



## scuba

I don't seem to be able to find any beamshots of it. Help please.


----------



## JimH

scuba said:


> I don't seem to be able to find any beamshots of it. Help please.


Beam shots just don't do it justice. You just have to hold it in you hand, then wonder where the hell is all that light coming from


----------



## chasm22

JimH said:


> Beam shots just don't do it justice. You just have to hold it in you hand, then wonder where the hell is all that light coming from



I totally agree. This light is guaranteed to put a smile on your face. Anybody that is sitting on the fence deciding whether or not to purchase one shouldn't hesitate. 

There have only been a few other lights that I've purchased that have the same 'wow' factor as this light. The Barnburner, my KI's, 'The Torch', and my U-bin Raw's come to mind. This light is in the same league, and totally functional as an EDC, no small thanks to the FluPIC board.

Man, I've gotta think that this light is high on the list for Light of The Year. 


Thanks again Jonathan.


Chuck


----------



## rscanady

Johnathon,
I received my Draco the other day....AND HOLY $%it, I am in love. This is one beautiful piece of work, the design and implementation is fantastic. I am speechless, it took only about 3 minutes to replace the Jil Flupic on my keychain (cuz I had to play with it first!) Fantastic work, can't wait for the Ti (which is small enough for me to wear around my neck, so I always have one!)

Thanks again, and great work!

Ryan


----------



## frisco

Finally had a chance to really play with Draco ..... Wow, this thing is wicked bright! 

frisco


----------



## Dogliness

The Draco is awesome. In the first photo, the Draco is next to a Jil DD and Aleph 3 with 1xCR123 body.
In the second photo the Draco is next to an Arc AAA-P and Surefire U2.


----------



## DFiorentino

#76 Al Draco received and like others have stated...HOLY S&!T I almost don't even need to carry my HDS at work with this thing on my keyring. Damn, I can't wait to get my Ti with the much anticipated turbohead.  

-DF


----------



## Dr_Joe

The more I use it......the more I LOVE it !  

It very well could be the "Light of the Year 2006"


----------



## LifeNRA

I have purposely avoided most of the Draco threads because I knew I would want one but did not have the funds. I have avoided many threads in the last year or so because of this. But the lure of the Draco was too much and I began reading all there was about it. 

I have just spent the last 2 hours reading all of the Draco threads.

Modamag,
Based on what I have read tonight it must be a wonderful light. The glowing praise of everyone who owns one is a testament of your accomplishment. Congratulations on realizing a dream and making so many people from around the world so happy with your creation.
It is a work of art and you should be very proud of your work.
Cheers to you sir! :goodjob:


----------



## Rookwood

*Draco - the new standard for Mini Monster Lights!*


----------



## JimH

Rookwood said:


> *Draco - the new standard for Mini Monster Lights!*








.

.




. . .



. . .



. . . Well done


----------



## vag

I received mine in France today and ... holy sh** this light is awesome ! marvelous ! I LOVE it :rock: 

I never thought that it could be so small and tiny until I get it in my hand ! You didn't post too much pictures and you done well, because the surprise was even better when I opened the box ... 

I received an L0P Special Edition a few days ago, and I already forgot this crap :naughty: I will give it to my father, and I'll keep the REAL small and powerfull light, aka the Draco ! 

And it's even more powerfull with the extension tube (and a little bit longer ^^ ) ! 

Jonathan, well done, this is an amazing light, you did a very good job ! :goodjob: And you dealed with the customers in a very efficient and professional way

A question : what will happen if I use an AAA 1.5V battery with the extension tube ? (I'm curious) 
probably that the light will not turn on, but can it cause permanent damages ? I don't want to break my beautifull light, so I won't try until being sure that it is safe 


Last, here are some pictures I took :
















and a Beamshot :






On the left it's the draco, and on the right the Fenix L0P Special Edition ... both are on Max level of course ...

draco wins !!


----------



## stevevh

Just recieved my draco today and I must say jolly good job. It is an amazing feat of engineering and has replaced my trusty ARC AAA as my EDC on my keyring. Thanks for taking time to build this great little light. I am now very tempted to buy a titanium one

Steve


----------



## jeffb

OK................received my second Draco, today.

The original is a 1W with FluPic (3 level); 2nd is a "U" bin regulated (1 level)
also ordered a "TurboHead" and man it is "Turbo"

I plan on carrying (pocket) extended body (AAA Lion) with FluPic an TurboHead, the regulated "U" is on my keychain.

I did do beamshots and will post in my picture review thread, tomorrow.

The Turbo on the FluPic and "burst" is as bright as a McLux PD and slightly brighter than HDS EDcC Ultimate 60. (by my eyes!).

jeffb

Truly amazing and in my book the 2006 "Light of the Year"


----------



## CroMAGnet

jeffb said:


> OK................received my second Draco, today.
> 
> The original is a 1W with FluPic (3 level); 2nd is a "U" bin regulated (1 level)
> also ordered a "TurboHead" and man it is "Turbo"
> 
> I plan on carrying (pocket) extended body (AAA Lion) with FluPic an TurboHead, the regulated "U" is on my keychain.
> 
> I did do beamshots and will post in my picture review thread, tomorrow.
> 
> The Turbo on the FluPic and "burst" is as bright as a McLux PD and slightly brighter than HDS EDcC Ultimate 60. (by my eyes!).
> 
> jeffb
> 
> Truly amazing and in my book the 2006 "Light of the Year"


WOW!! Jeff, those are some serious statements. Can hardly wait to see those pics.

People I have shown the turbo head Draco have been really amazed. It really reminds me of a RAW when it comes to beam quality. I really like my RAW, its what it's suppose to be... RAW and the Draco is sooo sweet and refined.


----------



## mcmc

Wow guys, I just started reading up on the Draco starting today (btw, I'm a Bay Area guy too, hello to you all!) and I want one! *drool*

I didn't realize that driving an S-bin Lux I at a similar level as a U-bin Lux III would give you more output, at risk of shortening the LED lifespan - but how much shorter? I.e., by the time the light dies, would it not be ripe for an upgrade (or a new light altogether)?

If I want just max output possible, should I go w/ the S-bin? I'm guessing the runtimes will not be affected.

Any help is greatly appreciated...thanks guys.


----------



## JimH

Wow, Tony,

It's about time you came up for air. Remember, all work and no play makes Tony a dull boy.


----------



## CroMAGnet

Ehehhe... yup, very busy lately. Opening two new offices! Come and visit our new office in LG when you have some time Jim.

mcmc: As for the Sbin Vs. Ubin, my understanding is that the S is a bit brighter but for how long depends drastically on how often you use it and at what level. If it's alway in burst mode then it will shorten the life quicker but remember, the battery at burst levels is not going to be full-out for very long. I have no worries and also will say that the light was designed for easy access to future modding so... all I have to say is, what are you waiting for?!?! There weren't many made and aren't many left. I'm surprised there are any left.

Hope you can make it to the get-together on the 18th. 

T


----------



## JimH

CroMAGnet said:


> Come and visit our new office in LG when you have some time Jim.


What time is the grand opening with the unlimited free pizza and beer



- I'll be there.


----------



## Loomy

Attractive light, and for a competitive price, too. 

I saw "40 lumens" quoted here. Any other guesses (or better, test results) about the brightness levels of the Draco?


----------



## Rookwood

Loomy said:


> Attractive light, and for a competitive price, too.
> 
> I saw "40 lumens" quoted here. Any other guesses (or better, test results) about the brightness levels of the Draco?



Not sure about the numbers, but here's a U bin Draco w/Turbohead vs. HDS Basic 60 - both at full settings, with fresh batteries at 3.5 feet:

HDS Basic 60:





Draco U bin with Turbohead:





My photography skills suck, but to my eyes, the Draco hangs right in there. In use, the HDS has a bit more throw, but I prefer the cooler temp of the U bin Draco.

Chris


----------



## Rookwood

Here's a question for you bin experts: The Draco intro states that the S bin should be noticeably brighter, but when I compare it to my newly-received U bin, I think the U bin looks brighter - it's definitely whiter. Is the S bin really supposed to be brighter?

Left: S bin, Right: U bin - both at 3.5 feet with fresh batteries at max output (burst mode)


----------



## Rookwood

Here's what the extended model looks like compared to the stock unit:






Here's how a fully-loaded and a stock unit compare: (sorry about the weird color balance)





Here's the 2 Dracos and an HDS for size reference:





I'm looking forward to seeing beam shots by you Draco owners who know how to use your cameras!

Cheers
Chris


----------



## Cliffnopus

Rookwood said:


> Here's what the extended model looks like compared to the stock unit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how a fully-loaded and a stock unit compare: (sorry about the weird color balance)
> 
> Cheers
> Chris


 
Ooohhh.....it's so _BIG !_ :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: 

Cliff

great pics, thanks.


----------



## chasm22

CroMAGnet said:


> WOW!! Jeff, those are some serious statements. Can hardly wait to see those pics.
> 
> People I have shown the turbo head Draco have been really amazed. It really reminds me of a RAW when it comes to beam quality. I really like my RAW, its what it's suppose to be... RAW and the Draco is sooo sweet and refined.



CroMAGnet,

I'm with you on the comparison with the RAW beam. I think another thing the Draco shares with the RAW is a very nice twisty action. Very smooth and consistent. No mushy feeling leaving you wondering if you've given it enough of a twist or too much. 

Chuck


----------



## jeffb

Beamshots posted here

jeffb


----------



## Trashman

Rookwood said:


> Here's a question for you bin experts: The Draco intro states that the S bin should be noticeably brighter, but when I compare it to my newly-received U bin, I think the U bin looks brighter - it's definitely whiter. Is the S bin really supposed to be brighter?
> 
> Left: S bin, Right: U bin - both at 3.5 feet with fresh batteries




Are both lights in burst mode? I really want maximum brightness, but if these are both in burst, I think I'll go with the S bin. I like the warmer, creamier tint.


----------



## mcmc

Rookwood - thanks so much! That's exactly the kind of photo I was looking for =) *clap clap*

CroMag - thanks for the reply. I would probably split my time b/t a lower level, and burst. From Rookwood's beamshot comparison though, I concur that the U-bin looks brighter? Certainly cooler tinted...grr, hard to decide. And no, I can't get both =) yet. > Regarding S-bin v/s U-bin longetivity, I don't have much of a ballpark idea of how much quicker the S-bin will degrade w/ frequent burst use, but even if it was as 'low' as 1000 hrs, how many years will that be? And if the design does lend itself to easy modding (guess so since the LE pops out!) that's a bonus too (cree xr-e?). One last q for you CroMag - when you say "the battery at burst levels is not going to be full-out for very long" - do you mean that at burst/high, it's going DD and as the voltage drops the dangerousness drops too, as far as LED health for the S-bin?

One final q - the turbohead, serves to focus the photons to concentrate into a hotter hotspot, right? So if I was interested in a floodier beam, the stock head is fine?


----------



## Rookwood

Trashman said:


> Are both lights in burst mode? I really want maximum brightness, but if these are both in burst, I think I'll go with the S bin. I like the warmer, creamier tint.



Yes - both lights were in burst mode.


----------



## CroMAGnet

mcmc said:


> Rookwood - thanks so much! That's exactly the kind of photo I was looking for =) *clap clap*
> 
> CroMag - thanks for the reply. I would probably split my time b/t a lower level, and burst. From Rookwood's beamshot comparison though, I concur that the U-bin looks brighter? Certainly cooler tinted...grr, hard to decide. And no, I can't get both =) yet. > Regarding S-bin v/s U-bin longetivity, I don't have much of a ballpark idea of how much quicker the S-bin will degrade w/ frequent burst use, but even if it was as 'low' as 1000 hrs, how many years will that be? And if the design does lend itself to easy modding (guess so since the LE pops out!) that's a bonus too (cree xr-e?). One last q for you CroMag - when you say "the battery at burst levels is not going to be full-out for very long" - do you mean that at burst/high, it's going DD and as the voltage drops the dangerousness drops too, as far as LED health for the S-bin?
> 
> One final q - the turbohead, serves to focus the photons to concentrate into a hotter hotspot, right? So if I was interested in a floodier beam, the stock head is fine?


Thanks for all those pictures 

I'll try to answer your questions as best I can. But first I must ask you if you used the same size battery in the S Vs. U picture. I'm assuming you did but if you used the AAA size body in the U then it will pro'ly be brighter.

As for the burst level at full-out, yes it will be draining the battery quickly anyway so it should be dropping from around 600mA down to 500mA or lower at a fairly fast rate. So it's not like you can leave the LED on for half an hour at Burst levels. I'd hazard a gues that you'd get maybe 5-minutes above 500mA :shrug: and you'd pro'ly want to drive the light at around 400mA without much worry for the LED. These are just estimates from the basics I've gleaned in CPF over the years. Jonathan, Newbie, McGizmo or others can get a lot more detailed here.

Now when using the AAA size battery you will pro'ly get 700mA on Burst. Maybe higher and it will last a lot longer so you'll want to go easy on any LED there. (if you're concerned with preserving the LED) By this time next year the Sbin or Ubin even will pro'ly be selling for $1 each if you care to replace the LED. And even upgrade to a CREE if/when that happens 

I'm rambling and tired. zzzzzzzzzzzzzz

niterz 

PS ROOKWOOD: Great pics in your link! Thanks!


----------



## modamag

I love it when you guys have fun 

...

I get alot of question regarding the brightness of the S vs U bin.
"Statistically" from the samples that I tested the S-bin have a higher "chance" of being brighter than the U-bin. But how for long ... one, two five years, I don't know.

The brightness difference is < 5%. It's all really really close.

At the end of the day it really comes down to what tint you like, Y0 or W0/X0 because all of them will make you see stars. At least I do everynight when I assemble them.


--- Now for the modder in me ---
Long story ... My bro-in-law is a fishaholic, he would so fishing pratically every week and stay out in the freaking cold and rain till 4-5 AM. Last week he hit the big one. He got himself a whopping 72" sturgeon. He gave my wife 1/3 of the fish. He also brag alittle about his gear the entire day.

One particular item in his box caught my eye. It was the stainless steel, frictionless ball bearing swivel. I heard of them from the edcforums.com but never knew what they are and where to look for them.

So I got two of them, take a look! They are a blast. Now my Draco can rotate freely.

I wish I knew where these were sold prior to purchasing the Pico light just for the swivel :duh2: 










I gave my bro a draco in return for making my day! 
Such tiny wonder and how they make us smile. 
Maybe I'm simple to please 


Now for a sad note. One of the member report Draco #52 is MIA. I hope that I just shipped them to the wrong person. If anyone happen to recieve #52 please let me know ASAP. Thank you.


----------



## stevevh

Hey guys,

Where does the o-ring sit in the head. Is it in front of the glass or behind the glass in front of the reflector. 
Not sure if anyone else is having a problem with the o-ring at the front squeezing out when twisted on a few times. I have put it back in and it keeps on slipping out at one side. 
Anybody?

Thanks,

Steve


----------



## Rookwood

stevevh said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Where does the o-ring sit in the head. Is it in front of the glass or behind the glass in front of the reflector.
> Not sure if anyone else is having a problem with the o-ring at the front squeezing out when twisted on a few times. I have put it back in and it keeps on slipping out at one side.
> Anybody?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve



Steve -

On both of mine, the O-ring is between the glass and the reflector. 

It seems odd that yours would be moving around, since the cap/lens and emitter head should be secured tightly under normal operation. The reflector should be making constant pressure against the O-ring.

Chris


----------



## modamag

The Ti production have just recently completed. Unfortunately there was a miss communication between me & the boss (I say turn left, he thought it was his right). As a result some of the parts need to be reworked. So there goes my nice and beautiful weekend in the park.

As promissed to one of the Ti participant member. Here's a shot of 1/80 Ti Light.






Oh the LL version was done manually and will not be available FS.


----------



## DFiorentino

:rock: 

I'm sooooo glad to be getting a Ti version of this mini-powerhouse! I can't wait to try out the turbo head in person. 

-DF


----------



## CroMAGnet

DFiorentino said:


> :rock:
> 
> I'm sooooo glad to be getting a Ti version of this mini-powerhouse! I can't wait to try out the turbo head in person.
> 
> -DF


Thank you for your support #1 

You saw what this was going to be from the very beginning! :twothumbs:


----------



## SteveStephens

modamag said:


> Oh the LL version was done manually and will not be available FS.


Jonathan, is that the non-lanyard body behind that won't be made? What's "LL"?
Looking great and I can (hardly) wait to get mine. 

Steve


----------



## Frenchyled

modamag said:


> The Ti production have just recently completed. Unfortunately there was a miss communication between me & the boss (I say turn left, he thought it was his right). As a result some of the parts need to be reworked. So there goes my nice and beautiful weekend in the park.
> 
> As promissed to one of the Ti participant member. Here's a shot of 1/80 Ti Light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh the LL version was done manually and will not be available FS.




Ho !!! I finally find this thread  Nice pictures and... the turbo head seams very nice...If only I had more money ... :thinking: 

I posted in another thread....sorry I didn't remember this part 2 of Draco thread  I saw here, the difference between TIN and TICN...my bad 

Awaiting patiently the soon release of TI  

And about the LL version,


----------



## modamag

**** Final Titanium Coating Consideration ****
Guys, we are pretty much ready for the TiCN & TiN separation. This will be the last opportunity for the members to choose their Titanium coating or lack their of.

I will probably have one of each (Ti/TiN/TiCN). Personally the one that might make it to my EDC will be the Ti bare version. After seeing the results of 300 RPM 0.001" I don't want any coating to "mask" the smooth machine finish.

I only made enough for the run (40/40), so unfortunately there is not enough to cover for people who change their mind after the plating is done.

I think malcontent and Morelite somehow predicted this cause they order pure Ti-6/4 bare.


*SteveStephens: *the Lanyard-Less (LL) body will not be available to the public. The reason is there's no function to it other than the title of "shortest high power LED flashlight". It's 3.75mm shorter than the typical Draco. Side walls are extremely thin.

*Frenchyled; *It's OK my friend. Long time no hear from you. If anyone deserve a LL in their collection it would be you.


----------



## blahblahblah

The Ti sure looks sweet.

Please change TiCN order #8 to bare Ti, including the turbo head and extesion tube of course.


----------



## quantile

I didn't realize "no coating" was an option. Please change #16 to Ti bare.

Thanks,
Marcus


----------



## ShortArc

Bare Ti for me too please....and a bare extension tube added to my order if possibe. Thanks.


----------



## Roboholic

I want to keep my coating. 
I love my Exolion but as my old EDC it sure got scratched easy. 

I love my draco Al sorry for not posting earlier.

As to stevevh I was having the same problem with the O-ring next to the glass. I finaly realized it was how I kept turning on the light on/off. I kept grabbing the end and kept rotating the wrong piece. I solved this by putting in a couple layers of teflon tape so I could not easily twist the wrong part. It solved my problem.

Any way great light just waiting for Ti version just wish I could afford the turbo head and AAA extender. Will they be available later or speak now or forever hold your peace time?


----------



## CroMAGnet

ummm... What happened to the galling of bare Ti?


----------



## jefft

CroMAGnet said:


> ummm... What happened to the galling of bare Ti?



You know, I was just wondering the exact same thing. I've been so happy with the _two_ Dracos that I puchased in Aluminum, I started thinking Ti might be nice..........


----------



## rscanady

I will keep my original order, thanks

Ryan


----------



## modamag

Galling is caused by high amount of friction. So by increasing the thread mating gap galling probability is "reduced".

As for the availability of the future Dracos, current it is not in my roadmap. Part of the reason is the shop only makes $20/hr. The owner can not live on such revenue. Remember, other than the batteries, everything else is manufactured in the US, so the overall cost is kinda high.

If I was to live in China or Argentina, the Titanium Dracos would be available for $150.


----------



## Frenchyled

Hmmm.. and now I no longer know what finish I want 

Tin or not Tin, Bare Ti or not ??? That is the question  
If someone could explain clearly the possible reason to change my mind it 'll be greatly appreciated 

Thank you Modamag for your good words


----------



## ShortArc

modamag,
Good point about galling. So the tradeoff is looks (subjective) versus function.
Ok I will stick with the original coating. Sorry and thanks.


----------



## pokkuhlag

#83 is home and safe .


----------



## DFiorentino

modamag said:


> **** Final Titanium Coating Consideration ****
> Guys, we are pretty much ready for the TiCN & TiN separation. This will be the last opportunity for the members to choose their Titanium coating or lack their of.
> 
> I will probably have one of each (Ti/TiN/TiCN). Personally the one that might make it to my EDC will be the Ti bare version. After seeing the results of 300 RPM 0.001" I don't want any coating to "mask" the smooth machine finish.
> 
> I only made enough for the run (40/40), so unfortunately there is not enough to cover for people who change their mind after the plating is done.
> .


 
I just wanted to confirm my interest in TiCN.  

-DF


----------



## modamag

Finally, ALL the parts are now finished with the machining stage. The majority of deburring have been done by the shop. I will try to spend the next two nights giving these little babies a nice clean ultrasonic bath, then they're off to the polishing shop for them to do their things.

Enjoy everyone!

* Regarding the coating, there is no need to confirm your interest. You only need to post if you decides to change something, save some bandwidth


----------



## Roboholic

I like that smoothie sitting in the middle. 
Maybe on the next run that might be an option?
Rob


----------



## Frenchyled

Hello Modamag...Christmas is very close now 

Any important news about the TI Draco ?  Need soon payment ?

Cheers,


----------



## modamag

Guys, the polishing shop definitely took their time trying to get the #8 (mirrored) finish on our little Titanium babies. It was finished last Tuesday (11/28/2006). However, the results and attention to details shows. Can anyone of you guys tell which one is the Polished Titanium vs Chrome plated (hint chrome got serial) 

Of the three CPFers that I showed this too, they couldn't tell what kind of coating was the "polished" titanium  and these guys probably got over $5K worth of lights too :nana:

Anyway, now the packages are in transit to the coating shop. Early estimate is 1-3 weeks. The long lead time is due to the infrequent run of the TiCN process. I'm still praying for X-mas time frame but knowing its Holiday season here everything can stall to a near standstill.  In any case there is only two step left (plating & engraving) till these are ready to go out.






*Frenchy: *X-Mas is coming up all so quick. I'm still hoping for the best but realistically it will be in the January timeframe. No need for payment yet!


----------



## Cliffnopus

WOW Jonathan, they are beautiful....... I'm seating myself in front of the fireplace and waiting for Santa.

Cliff


----------



## Frenchyled

Thank you for these informations, I appreciate it 

And if it's not for Christmas, here in France we have the "January father" , "Le Père Janvier" in French  So I prefer later than never 

Is it a sandisk Cruzer Titanium U3 near the nice polished dracos ?


----------



## geekswithguns

d'oh...wrong thread


----------



## geekswithguns

Anyone try a primary / disposable Li Ion AAA in it yet?


----------



## kiely23+

Hi modamag,

Do you have beamshots 10280 cell vs. 10440 cell with custom head??? 
Thanks...


----------



## LowBat

They're such a work of art that they may also hold the title of worlds smallest shelf queens.


----------



## modamag

**** Production Update ****
The TiCN & TiN coating process is now complete! Woo hoo one more step down.
The polishing really REALLY paid off. This gotta be one of the best Ti coating that I have ever seen. It have a much nicer gloss compared to my TiN from my endmill and carbide inserts. My wife was also fooled when she looked at the TiN. She thought it was gold. Luckily she didn't do the teeth test otherwise we'll get a pretty hefty dental bill.

The next (2nd to final) phase is the laser engraving. I have already packed and sent it off to them. ETA is sometime late next week.

I'm also waiting for the next batch of FluPic. I have exhausted almost all but 2 board due to the demand of the Draco-Al, most of which have been sold.

At the moment I will close all serial number reservation because I simply only produced 20 units of TiCN & TiN due to the high cost. So all new order will get a randomly assign number.

Here are some teasers, Enjoy everyone.





Bare Ti --- TiCN --- TiN --- Chrome --- 24K Gold





Both TiN but the Draco is much shinnier and looks like 14K gold.

*kiely23+: *The batteries doesn't make a significant difference in the light output. It's just last a little longer and also maintain burst current mode a little longer.

The turbo head is another thing all together. Slap on the turbo head and you get an unbelievable beam.​


----------



## goldserve

Drops jaws. Guess i'll have to come over and look at them in person =D


----------



## Cliffnopus

Wow, that IS cool. I'm now really glad I ordered TiN.

Cliff


----------



## rscanady

wow!, I like that TiN, yee haw!

Ryan


----------



## DFiorentino

Me likey that TiCN!  I can wait to try out the infamous turbohead. Awesome work.

:goodjob:

-DF


----------



## CroMAGnet

wow!


----------



## Cliffnopus

For balance. We be allll set and waiting....Yee Haaa !

Cliff


----------



## ShortArc

(cash) Balance sent yesterday!
Willem


----------



## Frenchyled

PAypal sent for $138.50 cash paypal !! 
For Frenchyled Draco TIN N°10.. with Cree XRE if possible   

And now the waiting begin


----------



## BVH

I'd like a Ti Draco "Rocket" with Cree. Is this the place to order?

From the JimH "Rocket" thread:

6. New Titanium Draco with XRE upgrade... $270

PayPal at the ready...


----------



## coyote

nice!


----------



## modamag

Guys here are the upgrade cost for XRE.

1. Chrome XRE Plugin ... $85
- includes LE body, oring, v2 converter, modified reflector, premium Cree XRE
2. Titanium XRE Plugin ... $110
- includes LE body, oring, v2 converter, modified reflector, premium Cree XRE
3. Chrome Luxeon -> XRE upgrade/swap ... $40
4. Titanium Luxeon -> XRE upgrade/swap ... $45
5. New Chrome Draco with XRE upgrade... $155
6. New Titanium Draco with XRE upgrade... $270

Note: this upgrade will not work with the Luxeon based Turbo Head at the moment.

As for the pending Ti order, you have the option to upgrade for $30 (the difference between the two price) and will be among the first to receive the upgrade option. What do you guys think is this "fair"?


----------



## rscanady

Sign me up for an upgrade, paypal incoming this afternoon.

The upgrade for our pending Ti is $30 and not $45? Thats even better

Ryan


----------



## quantile

Please make my pending #16 Ti Draco an XRE as well. Paypal forthcoming.

Thanks,
Marcus


----------



## BVH

for:

1 ea. Bare Ti "Rocket"....... $270.00
FluPIC.............................
1 ea. extra O-Ring..................2.00
2 ea. extra 10280 Li-On..........4.50 (EDIT: this item increased. separate PayPal sent)
shipping................................5.00
Total................................$281.50


----------



## Roboholic

Hello Modamag,

I was wanting to upgrade to the XRE on the Ti that has not shipped yet. Is it only $30 extra? Or is it $45

I think I have also talked my self into the turbo head. Will that need a different reflector?

Do I need the AAA tube? Will it make the light brighter or just give me a better run time?

Thanks Rob


----------



## modamag

Before everyone jump to the CREE ship, let me remind you guys of couple things.

1. The tint is the Cree is not as well controlled as the Luxeon ones. From my testing of 30+ units they are all over the place.

2. Same goes for the Vf. But generally they are fairly low 3.1-3.5 V.

3. This XRE light engine upgrade will not work with the Luxeon Turbo Head. This is why I offer the plugin option, where you get to have the best of both world. CREE LE and Luxeon LE + turbo head. Just in case in the near future that Luxeon catch up.


----------



## rscanady

Johnathon,

Thanks for the points mentioned above, that is good to know.

I also like that you provide great communications and excellent business transactions, there are some other custom light makers that could learn from you.


Ryan


----------



## Icebreak

Fair you ask?

Everyone is being allowed to do about anything they want to do for a cost that is less than I would have thought.

While some payment is a neccessary part of your bringing this awesome little torch to us, it seems more like a gift of technology, skill, knowledge and personal light.

Thanks, Jonathan.

- Jeff


----------



## Psychomodo

(Please excuse my ignorance here)

It looks like there is a screw hole on the base. I am sure this is to attach a ring/lanyard to.
Is the screw attachment included, if not, where do I get one from?

Cheers - and thanks for not pointing out my ignorance!


----------



## ScarabDrowner

I don't think that's a screw hole... at least, on mine, it's not threaded. It's just a hole into which I hope to be able to epoxy a small tritium insert (anybody have info on the size of the hole, so I know what size tritium to look for? thanks). There is, however, a splitring attached through one of the three "arms" on the base of the draco if that helps.


----------



## Psychomodo

ScarabDrowner said:


> I don't think that's a screw hole... at least, on mine, it's not threaded. It's just a hole into which I hope to be able to epoxy a small tritium insert (anybody have info on the size of the hole, so I know what size tritium to look for? thanks). There is, however, a splitring attached through one of the three "arms" on the base of the draco if that helps.



Thanks - that is what I wanted to know. I'll just thread a split ring through that hole. Cheers!


----------



## malcontent

modamag said:


> Guys here are the upgrade cost for XRE.
> 2. Titanium XRE Plugin ... $110
> - includes LE body, oring, v2 converter, modified reflector, premium Cree XRE


 
Sorry for being a little dense, but with this option, do you just unscrew the Lux version and screw on the Cree version? A simple swap out?


----------



## modamag

*malcontent: *Yes, just a simple plug & play.


----------



## modamag

**** Production Update *** *
I finished couple dozens of Ti LE and several chrome one. I finished off the XRE LE first because it's much longer to assemble. I was also able to machine all of the reflectors from McR-17-XR to McR-11-XR, some turning / cutoff and facing resulting in a major reflector diet. 












And now the bad news. The laser engraving shopped promised to have all the serials (~40x of them) done by Friday 12/22. Well I went there and they apologize for not having it done due to the short staff & extra work load during the holiday season so we'll just have to wait for another week. Similar thing happen at the coating shop. I went there and my car was the only one in the parking lot (@ 1:30PM), it seems like they decided to head off early even though they promised to have my stuff done on that day 

I'll be out of town next week so when I get back, I'll catch up with these guys and hopefully start the New Year right.


----------



## rscanady

Thanks for the update, at least it will be a great New Year's gift!

Ryan


----------



## Morelite

WOW that IS a major diet for the McR17-XR


----------



## 9volt

Can these batteries be charged by a 123 Nano charger?


----------



## vortechs

dammitjim said:


> Can these batteries be charged by a 123 Nano charger?



The 180mAh 10280-size Li-Ion cell can be charged on the Nano 123 charger or the Nano AAA charger, however you'll need a spacer with either one. See post #2 of AW's battery sales thread for charger/cell compatibility: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=140362 . I'd recommend just getting the charger and spacer from modamag, for simplicity.


----------



## faca

hi.
Questions about XR Cree version.
Flashligth Pics (dimensions same as normal version?)
Ligth spot pics.
Specs
Thanks
I´m thinking a lot about this ligth........................


----------



## modamag

faca, 

The body are the same as the normal version.
The complete spec and comparison is also in the first post.

Just in case here's the size comparison picture




Left - McLuxPD / Arc4+ / FF2-CR123 / FF2-CR2 / ArcLS / Exolion / Draco / Draco Lanyardless / Orb-Raw / KI / KI-B / Fenix L0P / Fenix L1P - Right

Beamshot comparison of both the Draco Luxeon & XRE version can be seen on "The Rocket" thread


----------



## rscanady

okay dumb question here, I looked through the numerous threads and must have missed it.

Is the Ti Draco Rocket on a different Flupic version than that of the Chromie Luxeon based model. they definitely operate different.

Ryan


----------



## aikiman44

Maybe better late than never. Are any Ti models available?


----------



## MY

I would also be interested in a Ti with Cree if available. I have not followed this thread so if someone could explain to me the purchasing process and availability I would appreciate it.

Regards.


----------



## Icebreak

MY, aikiman44 -

Order Info.


----------



## aikiman44

Icebreak, just the image came up. No info on components, availability and price yet.


----------



## Icebreak

Arrgh. Ack.

Fixed the link to Order Info.

I see you are in now. Do you have 10280 Li-Ion batteries?

That member, goldserve, helping you...he's the brains behind the FluPIC. Pretty cool eh?


----------



## aikiman44

I've updated the order to include the batteries/charger/spacer.
You guys are great. 
And I'm a very sick man: I've gone from collecting tiki mugs to knives to...flashlights? Where does it all end?
I mean, the normopaths just don't understand!
One more technical question: What exactly is the FluPIC?


----------



## goldserve

Just a driver that I named. search flupic posts by me. Cheers!


----------



## vortechs

aikiman44 said:


> One more technical question: What exactly is the FluPIC?



There is a good introduction to the FLuPIC in my JIL info post. I believe the JIL-CR2 was the first light that included the FLuPIC as a factory mod (the JIL "Intelli" model). The FLuPIC has become more common since then and modamag decided to use it as the driver for his excellent Draco, which is quite a bit smaller than the JIL-CR2.


----------



## Icebreak

vortech's description is excellent.

FluPIC uses PWM or pulse width modulation to control brightness.

The setting below "Burst" is "User Set". You'll be able to access the fifth area which is "Brightness Set" and set "User Set" to one of 10 different brightness levels. I'm stuck on 7 for now because it's 60 lumens and doesn't get very hot. Level 10 looks like close to 120 lumens to me.

Checkout lightrod's excellent review with graphic representations showing his measured findings.

This thing is tiny. Check out 4Seven's excellent pictures of his chrome Draco.


----------



## aikiman44

Great info, though I'm happy to understand part of it. Not from an 'engineering' background this is all new stuff to me.


----------



## kevindick

Just wanted to say that I've had my TiCN Draco/Rocket for a few days now and I love it. The polished-TiCN has to be the nicest finish of any of my lights. I'm seriously considering having it done to my Ti Chameleon and Ti PDs even though that would probably be absurdly expensive. I looked up that the Rc hardness of this coating over grade 5 Ti is over 90!

The precision of the machining is to die for and it's unbelievably bright. Good job!


----------



## DFiorentino

#001 TiCN checking in...

(Quick low quality dirty pic on my part.  )






All I can say is :wow: . The XR-E upgrade is well worth it. The machining is excellent. I prefer the V2 FluPIC to the V1 myself. And the engraving just makes it soooo cool. It's a keeper forever!

-DF


----------



## Trashman

I've got a question about the Draco FluPIC:

I've always thought that the FluPIC in my Draco was screwy. Now, I'm thinking, is it just supposed to come on at the same level that you left it before? I've always been used to the FluPIC coming on at the first setting (in other lights), but I notice, mine Draco doesn't do that. So, if I'm on low, it'll come back on low, and if I want it on Max, I have to cycle it from low, past 'user-set', to Max?


----------



## 9volt

My chrome one seems to have a v2 as well. I'm not sure if I prefer the remembering feature or not, since if I don't remember where I left it I can't predict what level it will turn on at. 

Why do you prefer the last mode memory?


----------



## 9volt

Ok, that's twice today that I've read a post by Lurveleven, posted after him, and had my post appear above his!


----------



## 9volt

Three times.

edit: seems to have something to do with the timestamp.


----------



## Lurveleven

The titanium Dracos use v2 FluPIC instead of v1, and the last used mode is now remembered. A great improvement IMO.

Sigbjoern


----------



## Rookwood

Jonathan,

Does the v2 FluPic come with the CREE upgrade swap?

Also, would you prefer I send the entire light in for the upgrade, or do you just need the emitter/reflector head?

Thanks
Chris


----------



## Icebreak

I don't know which version my Ti Draco is.

I did the cree upgrade before delivery. I thought those were suppose to be V1. But mine remembers last level which I think is what V2s do. If my light is on low and I want burst I go to the "Nothing" setting. Off-on-off-on. No light but then 3 seconds later it goes to burst. This saves me from another group of off-on-off-on to get to burst.

I don't know if this was any help at all.


----------



## Icebreak

I've got a V2 then. Excellent.

dammitjim -

If I have my "User Set" at a level for a particular task it's convenient to turn it off and know it will come back on for that same task. 

If I'm in sleep mode and have it set to low it's convenient if I have to make a late night trek to the fridge to know when I turn it on I'll get enough light for the trip. The other night I had it on burst, went to sleep, woke up and shined it at the ceiling. Ouch!

OK. I've got a question. In looking at some of the photos I see that there are three main tube parts, the head, the LE and the battery holder. Mine turns on and off where the LE meets the battery holder. I thought it was supposed to turn on and off where the head meets the LE. Using my fingers I can't get it apart right there. It's not a problem but is it supposed to twist on and off where the head and LE meet?


----------



## Lurveleven

Icebreak, that is the exact same reason why I also prefer the V2 interface.

When it comes to separating the head and the LE, it was easy on my Luxeon version, but I'm unable to do it on the Cree versions, maybe I didn't turn hard enough but I'm afraid to apply to much power.

Sigbjoern


----------



## Morelite

Icebreak said:


> OK. I've got a question. In looking at some of the photos I see that there are three main tube parts, the head, the LE and the battery holder. Mine turns on and off where the LE meets the battery holder. I thought it was supposed to turn on and off where the head meets the LE. Using my fingers I can't get it apart right there. It's not a problem but is it supposed to twist on and off where the head and LE meet?


 
The switching is done at the battery tube and LE connection. The head should remain tight on the LE. 
I too have a problem here, the threading on the tube and LE are nice and loose, but the head is very tight on the LE. That is good except that I also got the turbo head and I can't get the regular head to come off of the LE to put the turbo head on. 
Second problem, when I twist the battery tube to the off position there is only one thread left holding the light together (more like 3/4 of a turn). Twice now the light has come apart in my pocket. 
Third problem, well not really a problem, but what happened to the serial numbers, I didn't get a serial number on mine. I should have been #20


----------



## Icebreak

Thanks, Sigbjoern. I'll just leave it as is for now. It doesn't seem to affect operation for me.

This light is incredibly impressive and terrifically useful.

- Jeff


----------



## Lurveleven

Morelite, how far do you turn it when you turn it off? I don't have much experience with it yet, but I think the optimum is to turn it a quarter round when turning it off. You then don't risk accidental activatian when applying pressure to the head, while you still have a quarter turn left before the o-ring stops engaging the head. When the o-ring stops engaging the head, then the head will come off very easy.

Sigbjoern


----------



## Morelite

I turn it a half turn, the first quarter turns it off but any pressure will turn it back on so I turn it another quarter to stop the pressure activation. This is with the AAA (10440) extension tube. It is a little better when just using the 10280 battery tube. I measured the major diameter of the threads on the battery tube and the extension tube and found the extension tube is .0040" less so that may explain my problem.


----------



## Lurveleven

I also find it to work better without the extender. I don't have a micrometer and my caliper is of the really cheap kind, my measurements were 11.8 mm for the battery tube and 11.7 mm for the extender. If our measurements are correct then that probably explains it.

Sigbjoern


----------



## Trashman

Thanks guys, that explains everything! I guess it's not broken anymore....


----------



## Morelite

I just tried using it this way, I made the extension tight on the LE and started using the threads between the extension and 10280 tube for activaion and this made it much better. 

I still haven't had the chance to try the turbo head, I can't get the head off of the LE by any means that won't mark the great finish.

Anybody got any ideas on how to remove the head without marking it up.


----------



## Icebreak

Morelite said:


> The switching is done at the battery tube and LE connection. The head should remain tight on the LE.



Thanks, Morelite.

I hope you get your turbo working soon. If someone here can't figure it out I'm sure Jonathan can. I didn't order one but I'll bet that turbo is going to be awesome.


----------



## Lurveleven

Morelite said:


> I just tried using it this way, I made the extension tight on the LE and started using the threads between the extension and 10280 tube for activaion and this made it much better.



Thanks for the great tip! That worked much better.

Sigbjoern


----------



## lrw2

Dang. Was gonna buy last night but CC company was down for maint. and sold out before I got paypal set up today. 

A couple questions for modamag on the the new run:

1. Are you still engraving serial numbers/taking requests? What is the range available?

or

2. Is there other engraving service offered (other than 3 digit serial) and associated cost?

2. Ti's are supposed to be shipping ~ 1 month. Do you expect the chromes to go out same time or little sooner or later? (b-day present for almost 1 month from now)

Thanks!


----------



## modamag

Have any of you guys figured out the "trickster" mode on the V2 yet? :wicked:

*Irw2: *no engraving on the next run. Cause too much delay & hassle. I believe 47s offer engraving for $20-30. Check with him. The chrome is on a separate manufacturing program but it will be ship slightly behind the Ti's. It need to go thru machining/polishing/plating then final inspection and assembly.


----------



## Rookwood

Morelight

You can try using a small strap wrench, or try unscrewing the head while wearing rubber gloves - should give you a good grip.




Morelite said:


> I just tried using it this way, I made the extension tight on the LE and started using the threads between the extension and 10280 tube for activaion and this made it much better.
> 
> I still haven't had the chance to try the turbo head, I can't get the head off of the LE by any means that won't mark the great finish.
> 
> Anybody got any ideas on how to remove the head without marking it up.


----------



## Trashman

modamag said:


> Have any of you guys figured out the "trickster" mode on the V2 yet? :wicked:




Is that, like, when you want it to come on bright and it comes on low or not at all? 

BTW, mine is actually working just fine, now that I figured/found out that it doesn't return to step#1 after being off for a while!


----------



## Rookwood

Jonathan -

For upgrade swaps, what parts do I need to send in - the LE with reflector or the whole light?

Thanks
Chris


----------



## modamag

*Morelite: *The Luxeon head are tighten with a 5C collet holding the LE, and with ruber glove tightening the standard reflector head. So if you do the reverse you should be able to take it off. If you still cant send it back and I'll loosen it and return to you.

*Trashman: *nah that's the "broken mode" due to bad converter or user error 

*Rockwood: *it's best to send in the whole light for a complete tune-up.
C'mon as if sending 0.1 oz (head only) is any difference than 0.3 oz (complete light) in USPS


----------



## Frenchyled

modamag said:


> Have any of you guys figured out the "trickster" mode on the V2 yet? :wicked:



Oh !!! There is a tricky mode on the V2 ???   
Let me see....

And BTW a small picture of my small jewel


----------



## Lurveleven

modamag said:


> Have any of you guys figured out the "trickster" mode on the V2 yet?


 
I'm not sure this is it, but if you turn it from Low to the Nothing mode and keep it there for >3 seconds then it will turn on High while it is in Nothing mode. This let you turn from Low to High with less twists. You cannot do this on V1, which also would be pointless since it always defaults back to High after turning it off (when it has been on for > 800 ms).

Sigbjoern


----------



## ScarabDrowner

<edited - misunderstanding cleared up>


----------



## Lurveleven

Scarab, sorry for the misinformation, I have corrected my post.

Sigbjoern


----------



## modamag

*Lurveleven: *So you know the secret "trickster" mode. I have tried this on couple of my coworker (with a sense of humor) and it works out great.


----------



## moeman

deleted, sorry wrong thread....


----------



## Icebreak

Frenchyled said:


> Oh !!! There is a tricky mode on the V2 ???
> Let me see....
> 
> And BTW a small picture of my small jewel



Pascal -

That's a very nice photo of your gorgeous torch. I'm tempted to carry a magnifying glass so people can see the exquisite detail. Of course, when I turn it on they can see the detail of everything I point it at.

A while back I got a dog tag chain from lighthound. (I couldn't find an affordable Ti chain that was long enough.) I wore it to see if I could get used to it. I did. So when I got a Draco I attached it to the chain to see if it bugged me. It doesn't. I didn't think I'd ever wear a torch on my neck but it seems to be working out well. It's always available. I'm still not convinced that neck carry is better than keychain carry for my purposes but I'm leaning that way.

- Jeff


----------



## ScarabDrowner

I actually fell for the trickster mode myself, with my own light! 
I was trying to figure out why the light would not turn on when it was supposed to (it's either the batteries or my fumbliness [yay new word]), and had it pointed in the wrong direction when the 3 seconds were up. And before you ask, yes, I knew already that after the low setting there is off for 3 seconds then bright... I just didn't think I was in that mode since I had done too many turns of the head for it to be in that mode. Still getting the hang of it here ^_^.



modamag said:


> *Lurveleven: *So you know the secret "trickster" mode. I have tried this on couple of my coworker (with a sense of humor) and it works out great.


----------



## modamag

For you guys who got the XRE plugin.
When you assemble the light do a mock assembly and verify that the two wires are not shorted against the reflector. If it gets shorted, there goes FluPIC.


----------



## ScarabDrowner

that was my problem, thanks ^_^
I had the LE screwed in a little too tightly into the head, and must have been shorting across the reflector. I loosened the LE a tiny bit, and now it's working fine. I was wondering why my batteries were dying so quickly ^_^.
Now to find some way to secure the (somewhat looser) head assembly. I'm now noticing that when turning the light on and off, if I'm not careful of where I grip it, I'll turn the head itself instead of the whole head assembly, and possibly tighten it (and short on the reflector) or loosen it even more.


----------



## jefft

Jonathan, just got my XRE plug-in. Wow!!!!! It's hard to imagine how the perfect EDC could have become "more perfect", but it is! Kudos to you for making the absolute best keychain light. :goodjob:


----------



## aikiman44

Can somebody contact me either through this post or PM me because I can't figure out the instructions on the light. Very complicated, but beautiful machine! 
Thanks.


----------



## frisco

Hey Jonathan, I just got my Draco XRE upgrade back from you................

Un-Freekin believable !!!!!!

"Wicked" 

This is a very substantial contribution to the Flashlight World.

#49 Draco

frisco


----------



## 9volt

aikiman44 said:


> I can't figure out the instructions on the light.
> Thanks.



1st = High 
2nd = User set level
3rd = Low
4th = No light 
5th = Quick Flash (Program the light here)

At the 5th settting (the one after No light) it will Quick Flash, and then slowly step through the 10 levels of light, going from 1-10 and then 10-1. Whatever level it is at when you turn the light off during this sequence is the level that the 2nd turn (User set level) will be set to.


----------



## 9volt

BTW, does anyone know how many Dracos have been built?


----------



## modamag

*aikiman44: *I hope you got a hang of that FluPIC otherwise my contact info is in your PM.

*dammitjim: *are you asking the number released to the public or the total number machined. I can pretty much count them all.

Here's what been released.
100 Chrome ... public
10 Chrome ... Presents to Machinist
10 Gold ... McGizmo, Miss_SS, goldserve, CroMagnet, modamag, Newbie (Lumi 2006 award) and few remaining reserved for future occasions.
20 TiCN ... public
20 TiN ... public
5 AlTN ... private


----------



## aikiman44

Nah, still don't have the hang of the FluPIC. I'm going to try contacting you this weekend for some remedial flashlight instructions.
Thanks.


----------



## 9volt

modamag said:


> *dammitjim: *are you asking the number released to the public or the total number machined.



I was asking about the total number released, the info you gave is great. It's cool to have such a limited run light


----------



## Scottiver

Hi there. I'm definitely thinking of getting one of these cool lights and have a few questions. If anyone knows the answer to any of them i'd appreciate the help.
-Does the price of the light include the battery and charger or are those extra? I'm pretty sure they're not included but thought I'd double check.
-What are the availability of the batteries for this light? Were they designed just for this light or are they commercially available elswhere? I don't want to spend this kind of money on a light where the batteries won't be available anymore in five years.
-Is the 10440 battery a higher capacity than the 10280? And if so, how much more capacity? And is it bigger and that's why they offer the extended battery pack. I was a little confused since it says (AAA) after the extended battery pack and I thought it was a pack for an alkaline AAA battery which I don't think is true.
-Are the new batch of aluminum/chrome lights going to be ready to ship sometime in Feb. '07?
That's all tlhe questions for now. I did spend 1 1/2 hours reading many posts/threads about this light, but there is a lot of information to sort through.
Thanks for your help.


----------



## Psychomodo

Q. Does the price of the light include the battery and charger or are those extra? 

A. No. These can be ordered with the light though.


Q. What are the availability of the batteries for this light? 

A. Rarer than AAA batteries, but available on the web - or on this site.


Q. Were they designed just for this light or are they commercially available elswhere? 

A. They are commercially available.


Q. Is the 10440 battery a higher capacity than the 10280? And if so, how much more capacity? 

A. Higher capacity, but I'm not sure how much more. It will give longer runtime.


Q. And is it bigger and that's why they offer the extended battery pack. 

A. 10440 is the same size as an AAA, 10280 is about two thirds this size. Voltage is over 3v (against 1.5v for AAA)


Q. Are the new batch of aluminum/chrome lights going to be ready to ship sometime in Feb. '07?

A. Not sure about this one but Modamag can tell you.


Hope that helps 

Order this light - you will never regret it. It is unbelievably bright for it extemely small size. EVERYONE who sees mine is absolutely amazed at the performance.


----------



## DM51

Scottiver said:


> Does the price of the light include the battery and charger or are those extra? I'm pretty sure they're not included but thought I'd double check.


I am not for one moment suggesting that the answer to this question might influence your decision one way or the other, but it is rather like asking whether a Ferrari comes with a free tankful of gas.


----------



## ScarabDrowner

Psychomodo said:


> Q. What are the availability of the batteries for this light?
> 
> A. Rarer than AAA batteries, but available on the web - or on this site.
> 
> 
> Q. Were they designed just for this light or are they commercially available elswhere?
> 
> A. They are commercially available.



could someone direct us to where you can purchase 10280's other than this site? I've not yet been able to find any elsewhere.


----------



## loveit

Others can correct me if I am wrong, but I think the 10280's are the rechargeable equivalent to the N sized cell. 

Others chime in please: don't standard N cells work in this light?


----------



## goldserve

Standard N size doesn't work because of 1.5V vs 3V


----------



## DM51

The Draco uses 10280 (N-cell size) or 10440 (AAA size) batteries. Both are 3v Li-Ion rechargeables. You need the body extender to use a 10440. Ordinary N-cell and AAA will not work as they are only 1.5v. 

Modamag's Draco sales thread is here:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=149410

He recently reported a temporary shortage of 10280s, but someone else may be able to point you at an alternative source.


----------



## kiely23+

Hi modmag,  
I have a chrome Draco (u-bin)#55, great little light!
Do you plan a Seoul P4 upgrade for this light? I´m really interested...
Greetings from Germany


----------



## Scottiver

Thanks for the replies, that helped alot.
Another quick question: what are the battery spacers used for? 
Are they required for use with the 10280 battery in the nano charger?


----------



## Scottiver

I found this thread: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=140362
CPF member AW is selling 10280's as well as many other Lithium batteries.
Also found out that 10280's are rated at 180 mAh and the 10440's are rated at 320 mAh.


----------



## vortechs

Scottiver said:


> Another quick question: what are the battery spacers used for?
> Are they required for use with the 10280 battery in the nano charger?



Yes, the spacer is so that the short 10280 will make contact with the leads in the Nano charger. You could use something else, but the spacer is convenient to have.


----------



## DM51

Scottiver: This is purely my personal opinion, but the Draco with the 10280 cell is the way to go. The 10440 will give you longer run-time, but it won't make it any brighter. The tiny size, not runtime, is the amazing thing about this light, so why compromise this by going for a longer version? 

kiely23+: modamag is doing Cree XR-E (not Seoul P4) upgrades. Sales thread here:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=149410


----------



## 9volt

DM51 said:


> Scottiver: This is purely my personal opinion, but the Draco with the 10280 cell is the way to go. The 10440 will give you longer run-time, but it won't make it any brighter.http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=149410



Agreed, run time hasn't been a problem for me with 10280s. The AAA tube would be cool is you could run regular AAAs, but you can't.


----------



## jeffb

I keep the 10280 w/ Cree on my keychain and the AAA body with 10440 w/Cree and Lanyard in my pocket!

jeffb


----------



## jeffb

Before replacing heads with new plug in Cree's; CR2 ION TI XRE, far right.........alternate the (2) on right "in my pocket".

jeffb


----------



## rscanady

Johnathon,

I wanted to wait a bit till things settled down for you, I scanned through the posts but did not find what I was looking for. For anyone wanted the XR-E upgrade, do we send you paypal and ship the light out to you. I also want to make sure that the same bezel ring is used in the upgrade in order to keep the serial number, thanks for your time. Both my Chrome AL and TiN are getting lots of use and never fail to impress, wonderful tools they are.

Regards,

Ryan


----------



## DM51

I suggest you e-mail him or use his sales thread. He may not monitor this thread frequently and his PM box is often full.


----------



## Scottiver

Wow Jeffb! Awesome little collection you have there. 



jeffb said:


> Before replacing heads with new plug in Cree's; CR2 ION TI XRE, far right.........alternate the (2) on right "in my pocket".


----------



## jeffb

Thanks! Pictured lights are "users", too!

I've now had the "little" Draco on my keychain for several months and it still appears as "new", BRAVO.

The new "Cree" is stunning; white, extremely bright and has amazing flood for such a small reflector. Will try to do some "beamshots", when I get time.

Every time I use it, appreciate the workmanship and the sheer brightness out of such tiny lights.

Highly Recommended!!

jeffb


----------



## ScarabDrowner

I haven't been able to bring myself to put my draco on my keyring. Too nervous about the other chunks of metal banging around on it. I've been keeping it on a chain around my neck almost 24-7 instead


----------



## modamag

All the second small batch of Dracos are currently in production. Several minor enhancement have been made to further help with the functionality and reliability of the light.

*=== Draco 2nd Revision Enhancements ===*
1. Tritium slots will replace the round GID hole on the battery tube.
2. Increase the number of rotation between the battery tube and LE.
3. Improved thermal path.
4. Maybe Seoul P4 compatible.
5. O-ring standardization. Same oring for all the junction to save part number & my whooping cost.
6. Secret sauce #9



*ScarabDrowner: *If for any reason 10280 are not available thru the common channel (AW), I'll fire up the alternative plan (who wants to remains ITBG at the moment).

*kiely23+: *Seoul P4 are in the works but not like you think.

*rscanady: *PM sent with instructions & address for swap.

*ScarabDrowner: *Please use the light, get it beaten in and bruise ... so I can sell more. J/K



ZeissOEM2 said:


> Anyone who did have the same problem w/ draco like mine.After 2 weeks it will only go on medium level .No-high or low. medium,nothing,medium ,nothing,userlevel set,medium



*Zeiss: *I have not seen this issue yet. It might be the uC onboard memory somehow got corrupted? Or is it ... it's always remembering :thinking:

Try the following:
1. Remove the battery.
2. Use IPA (rubbering alcohol) to clean the (+) contact
3. Wait for 30+ minutes.
4. Short the (+)center contact with the body (common ground) for couple seconds.
5. Then leave the light appart for the night.

Try to use it again the next morning hopefully it reset the uC. If all else fails send it (complete light) to me for repair.

I'll check goldserve to see if he experience this before in the 1K+ FluPIC in the field.


----------



## 9volt

modamag said:


> 2. Increase the number of rotation between the battery tube and LE.



2 questions just because I'm curious:
- For the v1.1 Draco are you changing the LE, the tube or both to increase the rotations?
- Will the v1.0 Draco parts (LE and tube) be compatible with all the v1.1 Draco parts?

Awesome light BTW! I got a LOD CE today just for giggles and the Draco just dominates it. The output from this thing is ridiculous, especially considering it's size. I've gone through a few other nice lights (Orb Raw XR-E, Gladius) since getting this one and nothing is holding my interest anymore compared to this little light. Owning a Draco is saving me money :laughing:


----------



## DFiorentino

Ok, so I'm wanting to send my "plain" aluminum unit in for an upgrade (no plugin). Should I just go for the XR-E upgrade (which I love in my Ti unit) or wait for this rumored P4 possability... :thinking: ? 

...and what to do with this Ti turbohead? 

-DF


----------



## modamag

The LE is changed to increase the rotations. And it's backward compatible.
The most costly part to machine is the battery tube, which I'm trying to retain thru the redesign process.


----------



## 9volt

Thanks for the info. Secret Sauce #9 wouldn't be a Turbo head for the XR-E lights, would it? :naughty:


----------



## ScarabDrowner

modamag said:


> *ScarabDrowner: *If for any reason 10280 are not available thru the common channel (AW), I'll fire up the alternative plan (who wants to remains ITBG at the moment).


It's not if they're available or not here in the forums, I was commenting on the fact that I have not yet found them available anywhere else on the web.


> Please use the light, get it beaten in and bruise ... so I can sell more. J/K


Hehe, not to worry there, I plan on getting a new Ti one this second round ^_^


----------



## jch79

Here's a couple pictures of my AlTiN Draco, which I am loving.

I tried it on a lanyard, but it ended up on my keys, which is where it's staying!











This quality of this light amazes me... the ideal balance of form and function - neither is compromised; both are perfected. :thumbsup: Cheers to you Jonathan!

 john


----------



## 9volt

Looks great in those pics! What kind of key is that?


----------



## loveit

jch79 said:


> Here's a couple pictures of my TiAlN Draco, which I am loving.



How is this different than the TiCN? I have one of those on order. This looks awesome!


----------



## jch79

dammitjim said:


> Looks great in those pics! What kind of key is that?


Kryptonite bike lock 


loveit said:


> How is this different than the TiCN?


It's got a different coating on it... Jonathan's description from his "Exotic Coating/Modification Services" thread says: "purple/black color, low friction, 90+ RC, 2nd hardest coating available of the list behind diamond."

The upside is that it is somewhat harder than TiCN; the downside is that it is not as good at heat dissipation. How much the slight change in these two factors will affect real life EDC useage... :shrug: I'll find out soon enough!

 john


----------



## 9volt

jch79 said:


> "purple/black color, low friction, 90+ RC, 2nd hardest coating available of the list behind diamond."



Hey John, I'm really interested in that coating, is the light as dark as it looks in your pics? Could you take some more pics in some different lighting?


----------



## jch79

dammitjim said:


> Hey John, I'm really interested in that coating, is the light as dark as it looks in your pics? Could you take some more pics in some different lighting?


I'll see what I can do with another photo. The light is indeed pretty dark in color - a charcoal gray. Holding it up to a Black HA-III light (An Aleph series light in this case), it's definitely not "black", but it's getting there. It also has more of a shine than your typical Ha III coating. Mine does not have a purple hue to it, as Jonathan's description above says, but it may vary from light to light? :shrug:

 john


----------



## 9volt

jch79 said:


> I'll see what I can do with another photo. The light is indeed pretty dark in color - a charcoal gray. Holding it up to a Black HA-III light (An Aleph series light in this case), it's definitely not "black", but it's getting there. It also has more of a shine than your typical Ha III coating. Mine does not have a purple hue to it, as Jonathan's description above says, but it may vary from light to light? :shrug:



Jonathan, does the color of this coating vary much? Is it available in the next run? I really dig these pics and am tempted to go Ti.


----------



## goldserve

IMHO, TiCN or TiAlN looks pretty much the same and both are great. I wouldn't sweat about it because only in bright light, you may get a different tint. One is more blueish and one is more violet.


----------



## DM51

dammitjim said:


> Jonathan, does the color of this coating vary much? Is it available in the next run? I really dig these pics and am tempted to go Ti.


Dammit, Jim, go Ti. You know it makes sense. Resistance is futile. Etc etc!!


----------



## ScarabDrowner

aw man... now I've gotta choose between TiCN and TiAlN... leaning towards the latter, I like that dark look to contrast the shiny silver chrome


----------



## 9volt

DM51 said:


> Dammit, Jim, go Ti. You know it makes sense.



Post more pics and resistance may be futile.


----------



## jch79

FYI, the Draco I have uses AlTiN, not TiAlN - there's a difference between the two coatings - AlTiN is slightly harder and smoother.

 john


----------



## frisco

©2007 frisco


----------



## Trashman

frisco said:


> ©2007 frisco



Nice advertisement! Is the girl in the photo a model? She makes that "model face" perfectly, just like in the magazines. I wish I knew how to take pictures like that! The lighting is so perfect. If you took that, you should shoot for an advertising company.

BTW, my Draco's been on my keychain for about a month and (I think) it still looks perfect. (although, I can't say I've really taken a close look at it!)


----------



## jch79

Only you frisco - you and your awesome equipment get to take pictures of girls with awesome... uhhh... flashlights? :thumbsup:


----------



## Icebreak

Wonderful...simply wonderful.


----------



## ZeissOEM2

modamag said:


> *Zeiss: *I have not seen this issue yet. It might be the uC onboard memory somehow got corrupted? Or is it ... it's always remembering :thinking:
> 
> Try the following:
> 1. Remove the battery.
> 2. Use IPA (rubbering alcohol) to clean the (+) contact
> 3. Wait for 30+ minutes.
> 4. Short the (+)center contact with the body (common ground) for couple seconds.
> 5. Then leave the light appart for the night.
> 
> Try to use it again the next morning hopefully it reset the uC. If all else fails send it (complete light) to me for repair.
> 
> I'll check goldserve to see if he experience this before in the 1K+ FluPIC in the field.



Still not working,only one medium
Please PM me your shipping adress.
O.R


----------



## Roboholic

Okay Modamag, I thougt My light was perfect. But now that you are making the small adjustments I will have to another TiCN or the AlTiN. Would love to have a couple more Twists on the head. Great Upgrade. Will you install a Trit or is that on us? I'll wait for the Seoul P4. Thanks Rob


----------



## modamag

Quick manufacturing update.
The next batch of the Al/Ti Draco are currently going thru the machining process.
The battery tube and the converters are now done as of 02/11. One week later than I expect mostly due to the changes in the tail tritium slot option.

I had some hard time going back and forth between the tri-flare thickness and the tritium width and depth. When I tried 1/16" ball endmill the tritium would fit snugly in the light but I'm afraid when coating is applied it would be too tight. Then the installer would have a chance of jamming his trits into the slot and easily breaking the glass tube.

So ... I finally decided on 0.085" flare thickness and tritium slot of 5/64" with 0.067" deep. The slot is made using ball endmill, IMHO, will give it a better estetic look when no tritium is installed (vs regular square endmill). The ball endmill slot will also help align the tritium to the center which makes installation alot easier. Those who have meet me knows that I have shaky hands that rivals that of the San Andreas fault (earthquake). So trying to adjust a small tritium tube that have 0.008" from side to side for perfect centering is not my cup of tea.

Here's the results.




BTW: No these are NOT the new Draco in 10180 bodies :nana:

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Guys here are some anwers to the latest exotic Draco coating AlTiN.

Color?
The AlTiN is definitely darker than TiCN. It's closer to jch79's first pic. Where the second pic would better depic a TiCN. I would describe it as gunmetal gray, charcoal color.

Availability?
Initially I was planning of doing a ultra limited run of these because there have not been any flashlight history of this usage and I didn't want to put all my eggs in one basket.
Unfortunately, the shop misunderstood my order of 10x units and made the entire batch (couple dozens) AlTiN. The good side is since it's a larger order, it drop the coating price per unit down to almost the same level as TiCN/TiN. So I'll offer it at the same price as any other Ti-Draco.


*dammitjim: *secret sauce is still secret until I can work out the tart taste.
*Roboholic: *You know I'll always try to give ppls the options. I can install the Tritium (one color green from [email protected]). Or I can leave it up to the user to select his own tritium to install.


----------



## Scottiver

Thanks for the update. So, are you now offering the installed trit as an option? and how much extra will it be?
Also, you said the entire batch was coated in AlTiN, does that mean that the TiCN weren't done? Just wondering.


----------



## goldserve

jonathan,

Good thing is that the trit will self align while in the edmund optical epoxy =D


----------



## jch79

Awesome updates Jonathan! :rock:


----------



## Secur1

=== Draco 2nd Revision Enhancements ===
1. Tritium slots will replace the round GID hole on the battery tube.
2. Increase the number of rotation between the battery tube and LE.
3. Improved thermal path.
4. Maybe Seoul P4 compatible.
5. O-ring standardization. Same oring for all the junction to save part number & my whooping cost.
6. Secret sauce #9

Will there be an upgrade option for current owners ?
And if so, how much will it cost ?


----------



## jeffb

Jonathon,

PM sent.

Thanks,

jeffb


----------



## Psychomodo

modamag said:


> All the second small batch of Dracos are currently in production. Several minor enhancement have been made to further help with the functionality and reliability of the light.
> 
> *=== Draco 2nd Revision Enhancements ===*
> ..
> 4. Maybe Seoul P4 compatible...



Will the turbohead be Seoul P4 compatible and if so will you offer the mod?

This would make some throw monster


----------



## lightrod

Great updates/enhancements coming!

I am wondering about knurling the head to make it easier to grip/turn. Has that been considered?


----------



## 9volt

Great work on the trit slot! I was expecting that a slot would look out of place compared to the circle, but it looks like it turned out great!


----------



## modamag

*=== Production Update ===*
Polishing have started this week. Yes we're slightly behind schedule due to couple changes in the machining process but I hope this is for the better.

A large batch of converter were accidentally programmed with the wrong UI and were sent to our brother up north for reprogramming. ETA return trip ~ 2-3 weeks.

On a positive note. hundreds of reflectors and on an inbound flight from the wizzard in HI to CA as we speak. Several hundreds of premium emitters and saphire lens were recently secured and is residing in my messy garage, thanks to dat2zip


Scottiver: [/b]The tritium install option will probably be ~$10. This covers the cost of high density Tritium (~$6/7) and epoxy and UV cured installation. However, like anything thing else. I recommend that each member do their own for the "pride of ownership" for any project.

*Secur1: *I'm working on a reasonable upgrade option for existing owners. It will be announce prior to the shipment/ready date.

*Psychomodo: *Turbo is looking directly toward Korea at this time. And yes, I will offer mod options for the DYI modders or the complete dropin solution.

*lightrod: *Sorry but no. It's an acquired taste of mine. It will be too much knurling for my book.


----------



## Azuredevil

So if I've put down a deposit for a TiCN is it possible that I will/can get a AlTiN instead? Because now that I've seen it I want it


----------



## Lurveleven

I just noticed that those Energizer AAA lithiums packs a lot more watt hours than a 10440 Li-Ion, have you looked into making a light engine for those batteries? The high would of course not be able to be as high as with the Li-Ion, but the runtime should be excellent. I also like that I can suck a primary cell real empty without worring about destroying it as I would do with an unprotected Li-Ion. I'm not sure how many AAA extenders you have sold so I'm not sure if there is enough interest for such a LE, or if there maybe is an easily available "off the shelf" driver that fits the Draco so I could special order? However, I'm only interested if it is turbo head compatible, anyone else interested?

Sigbjoern


----------



## DFiorentino

DFiorentino said:


> Ok, so I'm wanting to send my "plain" aluminum unit in for an upgrade (no plugin). Should I just go for the XR-E upgrade (which I love in my Ti unit) or wait for this rumored P4 possability... :thinking: ?
> 
> ...and what to do with this Ti turbohead?
> 
> -DF



  :thanks:

-DF


----------



## garuda

Hi to all.

Long story short, I have only 1 keychain LED that cost $5 from a swap meet. I was looking for a flashlight in ebay last week for my next trip. One seller has a link to CPF. I didn't know about this place and you bunch of "flashlight fanatics" :huh2:. Bought a L1D CE after a couple of days of research. Then I stumbled to this thread....and holy carp!!!! BINGO!!

Ok, I am going to be in trouble from my wife cause I want it bad .
Question is how in the hell am I going to convince my self to get the AlTiN with it being nearly 75% more expensive. For those who have inputs please tell me how the Chrome is holding up with nicks and scratches when used as an EDC? About unprotected 10280 batteries, are they as high a maintenance as I think they are. What do you guys/gals do as I have almost no knowledge of Li batteries other than my lap-top one which I just replaced after about 15 months of heavy usage. 2 batteries are ideal for charging and back up, but how to charge and use them to extend the life (ie. charge them every 2 weeks if seldom used or???). How do you know when it is time to charge as I hear that their lifespans are greatly reduced if they are used to below certain min voltage?

Any input would be great as I need to put an order together to Jonathan before the next batch is ready. 

You're all bunch of nuts I swear  . I think I am becoming one too as I stayed up till 5 am reading all the posts :goodjob:

Cheers
Ferdinand


----------



## goldserve

If you want ultimate hold against any kind of wear, AlTiN is the way to go. I have a TiCN and it looks like the first day I got it. Regarding the li-ion battery, there does not need that much maintenance. Put it back on the charger every two weeks or whenever you remember and pop in the spare battery. Good thing about li-ion is you should recharge it back to full instead of trying to use it to the end. Welcome fellow Canadian!


----------



## Robocop

Welcome garuda and I have to say that you did start out your stay here with a bang....many of us started out with the low price lights and worked our way up to the higher price stuff.....I have to hand it to you that you already seem to have very good taste for a so called beginner...hehe 

welcome to CPF by the way


----------



## garuda

Thanks for the welcome. I really didn't know what I was getting my self into initially, but I think this is a very interesting hobby. I have always been amazed at the "expensive" led lights that are offered in the local malls. Looking back, I often wondered as to why people would spend $50 - 100 for a flashlight. Well, those lights are nothing in comparisson to the items I find here in CPF. I am starting to understand the reason why everyone here is so into it. 

With regard to these Li unprotected cells and specifically with usage in the Draco, do you just eye ball the brightness before you decide to change batteries and recharge? I have read somewhere (but I cannot find it again) that you are not suppose to run down the battery to completely empty. So just like goldserve said, every couple of weeks pop in a new one...ok easy then...thanks goldserve! Just don't run it down all in one shot, right?

Anyway, I am truly excited about this little light. Thanks to everyone and to Jonathan for going ahead with his project. :goodjob:


----------



## modamag

You will definitely be able to tell when the cells run low. It'll be pretty dark.
For normal usage (like mine), recharge every two weeks are more than sufficient.
If you extensively use the light (eg. computer technician), then recharge will occur much more often.


----------



## DM51

Change the battery immediately you notice it fading. Do NOT let it run right down. Don't worry - you definitely will notice it dropping off, especially if you have it on high. 

But if in doubt, change it anyway. It doesn’t hurt to charge it before it needs it – in fact short charge-discharge cycles are better for the battery. Li-ion has no "memory" effect like NiCads.

I recommend you get a DMM (multimeter) to check voltages. Use it to check your charger’s output (should be 4.2v but no more than that) and also the batteries before and after charging. 

If a Li-Ion cell has dropped below 2.5v it is probably unrecoverable, so don’t try to use it any more. If it overheats or reads more than 4.2v, some unpleasant chemical reactions may be taking place inside it and there is a risk of it venting quite violently.

Rest the battery for a while after charging, before installing it. As long as you are reasonably careful with Li-Ions you will be OK. Accidents with them are rare, and almost always a result of human error/negligence. 

And welcome to CPF! In getting a Draco, you’ve made a very fine start here!


----------



## Dr_Joe

Let me preface everything with I LOVE MY (original V 1.0) DRACO !!! :bow: 

Here's a question I haven't seen asked regarding that vaersion. :thinking: 

 
I know some of us have concerns with the short threads, particularly when it's in a pocket. I doesn't seem like it would take much for the head to come off. 

Since the 4th "on" of this FluPic is really "off", could you leave the head screwed in on that 4th "on" without consuming the battery ? 
 
Next question: 
What versions are still available for purchase now, and at what prices ? (I think I need more DRACOS !!!)


----------



## garuda

Could some members tell me as to what brightness level is the prefered user level. I like to know if there are charts or graphs for some of the 1 - 10 variable levels. (edit: nevermind...found it  )

I'll probably stick with a level of my own, but just curious.

Thanks


----------



## modamag

Doc, you can set it to NOP but it will still draw a small amount of current (~0.5mA), so after a week your battery will be completely depleted.

Garuda, it's depends on the use and person that's why we have "user selectable". Me personally I use my last setting (v2 FluPIC) which is typically 4


----------



## DM51

modamag said:


> Doc, you can set it to NOP but it will still draw a small amount of current (~0.5mA), so after a week your battery will be completely depleted.


And don't forget this is an UNPROTECTED cell, so it will be ruined beyond recovery if it is completely discharged. If it reads below 2.5v you should not attempt to recharge it as it could blow.


----------



## Dr_Joe

DM51 said:


> And don't forget this is an UNPROTECTED cell, so it will be ruined beyond recovery if it is completely discharged. If it reads below 2.5v you should not attempt to recharge it as it could blow.


 
:sweat:  
Thanks for the warning


----------



## pinepig2

modamag-

What sort of output/runtime can be expected with the constant current converter and a Cree/10280? Are the CC converters available with different ratings?

I'm assuming the CC converter is more robust as far as long-term reliability is concerned. That appeals to me more than trick features.


----------



## pinepig2

Does anyone have any insight on this? I read lightrod's post on measurements of the different user-set levels. If a constant current converter could be installed that provides the equivelant of level 3 (12 lumens, 150 min runtime), that would work very well for me.

This would be for LEO duty use on a neck lanyard, hence the need for simplicity. Too often I'm doing searches or writing citations in areas with marginal lighting, and holding the Draco with my lips would free up both hands. I'm excited by this unit, and I'm ready to order!

UPDATE: Received PM for modamag that the 350mA converter is the only CC one available. The Flupic converter is not the best for my needs, so I guess I'm out of luck. :sigh:


----------



## X_Marine

I'm down for a Trilium for DIY install in tail. 
And maybe some "Secret sauce #9" hold the bell peppers" please.. ')

Welcome garuda, this is a great bunch of mixed nuts. :rock: 

ThanX
X.


----------



## garuda

I want my sauce Xtra HOT...throw X-marine's bell peppers on mine  :thanks:. It'll make my Tritium burn extra bright


----------



## Dr_Joe

Jonathan,

I saw a column for Tritium installation on your order spreadsheet, but can't find a price anywhere. I would love to have one. How much should I send you ?
 
OK, now a _really_ stupid question. I was studying the V1 and V2 FluPic instruction diagrams and see that there are some new lines / pathways / arrows etc...., but I'm not really grasping an operating difference other than the return to burst after 3 seconds of the 4th "on". Am I missing something ?


----------



## modamag

Tritium price is $10.

*pinepig2: *Just for a LEO, I'll try to convince dat2zip for a special favor and custom your board to 60mA output which will give you ~ 3+ hrs of work light. So keep your fingers crossed.

*Dr_Joe: *In short v2 latch (remember) the previous setting. But for further detail take a look at Lightrod's explanation is much better than mine. You can see it -> here


----------



## souptree

I was astounded by the Dracos I saw at the Flashapalooza. I was interested before, but after handling it in person, I'm completely hooked. Jonathan, sorry I didn't get a chance to meet you formally at the event, but I hope I'll see you again sometime to rectify that.

Would it be possible to see a photo of a standard head + standard body next to a turbo head on a AAA body?

If one were to purchase all of those options, it would basically be 1 emitter and 1 tailcap short of 2 complete lights, correct?

Nice to see the new lights will have milled tritium slots.

What in the world did I do with my money before CPF?


----------



## Trashman

Dr_Joe said:


> Jonathan,
> 
> I saw a column for Tritium installation on your order spreadsheet, but can't find a price anywhere. I would love to have one. How much should I send you ?
> 
> OK, now a _really_ stupid question. I was studying the V1 and V2 FluPic instruction diagrams and see that there are some new lines / pathways / arrows etc...., but I'm not really grasping an operating difference other than the return to burst after 3 seconds of the 4th "on". Am I missing something ?



Well, Jonathan already said it, but if he didn't make it clear enough: V1, it'll always return to the first setting after being off for a while (not sure exactly how long...few seconds). V2, it'll return to which ever mode was being previously used. So, if it was on low when you turned it off, it'll be on low the next time you use it. (versus coming back on at setting 1, high)


----------



## Scottiver

Souptree, check out post #240, it shows a standard next to a turbo. Very nice picture from Jeffb.


----------



## crewcabrob

Hi,

Does anyone have a picture of the Tritium installed on a Draco? Does anyone use the longer battery tube? 

I read in one post on the Draco, that it was clocked at 160 lumens? Was that just a prototype?

Thanks,

Rob


----------



## crewcabrob

Never mind on the 160 lumens, I got a great explination on it as I have gone back and read all the Draco threads. (I think most of them twice) :laughing: 

I would still love to see the Trit on one of the Dracos. Any takers on that option?

I envy you lucky guys that have them already!

Any word on the "secret sauce"?


----------



## sideman7

I posted this photo on the other thread, but here it is since you asked for it:


----------



## modamag

Now sideman with the lights off.


----------



## sideman7

How's this:


----------



## sideman7

I've got a few beam shots I'll post here as well...

HDS U60XRGT, original U-bin Raw, Cree Draco, Seoul Exolion





The Raw used to be the light I compared others to, but it is no longer the brightest with the advent of better LEDs... (although it's still bright)

HDS U60XRGT (at max):




U-bin Raw:




Draco:




Seoul Exolion:





All photos were taken at ISO 100, f/5.0, 8"

The Draco may not quite be the brightest here, but as someone else said, it's hard not to laugh when it's turned on at full brightness. It's so freakin' small and there is A LOT of light coming out of it. I'm not crazy about the color of the Cree LED (sort of pinkish), but it's not too bad. I may be in for a new head if you do them with a Seoul....


----------



## crewcabrob

Hi,

Thank you for the pictures of the Trit and the added bonus of the beam comparo. Wow! That is a lot of light for such a small package!

I will have to see if the trit slot is on mine when it shows up. I may have to order it.

Thanks,

Rob


----------



## Pumaman

> The Draco may not quite be the brightest here, but as someone else said, it's hard not to laugh when it's turned on at full brightness. It's so freakin' small and there is A LOT of light coming out of it. I'm not crazy about the color of the Cree LED (sort of pinkish), but it's not too bad.


 
agree with everything said above. thanks for the pics and impressions.

My impressions:

I LOVE mine so far, only wish I could justify a coated TI version. 
The Tritium placement looks great, especially with Bart's bright ones.

In full disclosure:
The beam is beautiful, with the pinkish tint the ONLY problem. There was a tiny chip in the chrome beside the keyring hole(opposite side of pic). Not a big deal as this IS chrome plated aluminum, but it makes me slightly concerned how it will hold up to full on keychain use. Anyone with pics of an aluminum that has been used hard would be very appreciated. The only other concern is that I have to twist it a little harder than i would expect to get it to make contact sometimes(i did progold the contacts as well without much difference). These concerns arent much, just want to be completely honest here. 


It really boils down to if your budget allows one, you want to handle unprotected li-ion cells, and you like super-cool small lights. If the answer is yes to all three then its time to place an order. This really is a revolution in keychain/necklace lighting.

:goodjob: Modamag!!!!!!!


----------



## crewcabrob

What a great picture of your chome beauty! That Trit shows very nice, even in that lighting.

I can't wait to get mine! Now I just have to find a way to keep the wife from seeing it. She waon't want it, but she will want to know how much and why I needed another light.  

Rob


----------



## WAVE_PARTICLE

Wow! What a pic! :goodjob: 


I can't see any pink tint on mine..... :thinking: 
Must be the CREE lottery going on here...


----------



## Pumaman

crewcabrob said:


> What a great picture of your chome beauty! That Trit shows very nice, even in that lighting.
> Rob


 
thanks guys. full disclosure, it is a 6 second exposure in very low light. the draco is on low as well. even Bart's trits arent that bright 

As far as the pinkish beam, it is not severe at all. I prefer a neutral or slightly yellow if I have my choice. I also work with color balance all day at work, so I am more picky than most. When your job requires you to correct color balance, it's hard to turn it off sometimes.

BTW waveparticle, I saw the lacie monitor in the background of your pic in your draco review. Do you do graphics work? or just like nice equipment of all kinds? :naughty:


----------



## modamag

Oh shoot! I'm in trouble now.

There are at least 4 known Professional photographers who owns a Draco. All of whom got great macro gears and Spider calibrated monitors and use Photoshop/Lightroom like a commoner use MS-Words.  And here I'm facing Cree lottery (worse than Luxeon). :hairpull: :help:

All I have as a weapon is ... FluPIC and 160 lumens out the front to blind them :duck: while they take their shot. :nana:

*Pumaman: *Great boken! & incredible trit shot. :twothumbs
As for the color tint, you should carefully observe the difference btw the low and high.


----------



## Secur1

Any updates on options and pricing for older version owners ?


----------



## Pumaman

I'm BUSTED!! 

I'm a photo pro who deals with color in a way most folks never imagine.

Took the draco and a couple other lights in the dark and the draco on user level 1-4 IS a very neutral tint(to my sensitive eyes). Also, arguing over these small color differences in an amazing flashlight is super picky. most flashaholics(much less the unenlightened) will see it as a really nice neutral/warm tint(if they ever get over the crazy brightness ). NOTHING like what we had to accept for white tints 1-2 years ago. 

BTW, The more I use my Draco, the more I like it. the biggest question is finding the best way to carry it.

I also want to let you in on the pic. it was taken with a simple $200 Kodak easyshare V550 point-and-shoot digital, and a minipod. Photoshop was used only to crop and color balance. light was ambient. GREAT camera for the price. I have access to more expensive and complex equipment, but it does a great job while simple and very small.

Couple of questions i may have missed in the thread: do you have the extended bodies in stock, or pocket bodies, both chrome? tritium in the extended body? lanyard attachment as well? also could the the li-ion AAA run on burst any longer safely? Please incorporate the trit in all future versions, as i hope a coated TI one will be in my future

Cheers to Modamag and his Draco!


----------



## sideman7

Pumaman said:


> thanks guys. full disclosure, it is a 6 second exposure in very low light. the draco is on low as well. even Bart's trits arent that bright



That is a cool photo... Damn, I need a macro lens... 

I had to do a 132 second exposure on the dark one I posted to get it all in focus...


----------



## 9volt

modamag said:


> All I have as a weapon is ... FluPIC and 160 lumens out the front...



...and your secret sauce, whatever that is


----------



## crewcabrob

Pumaman said:


> also could the the li-ion AAA run on burst any longer safely?
> Cheers to Modamag and his Draco!



Hello Jonathan,

I'm curious about this too. I really love the light, and I'm entoxicated by the burst mode. Do you think the torch can handle burst mode with the larger cell and extender installed?

I plan on ordering the battery tube extender and a couple of batteries. I don't think the extra length will bother me one bit.

I know all of the Cree based Dracos are P4s, when the Q3s are out, I would love to upgrade. By then, we may be looking at newer emitters anyway. I love that you are here to support us on these little gems.

This thing is awesome! I can't seem to put the thing down. I have went through both of my cells 3 times since getting it yesterday.

Great work!

Rob


----------



## modamag

Regarding the operation of burst mode for extended period of time with AAA Li-Ion. 
You can as long as you used it as designed, holding the light with your hand to induce the liquid (blood) cooling affect then there should be no problem. If you're out skiing the outside temperature gradient is more than enough to keep it cool.

However, if you're in Arizona when the outside temp is 100F/38C I would not recommend you keep it on burst while sitting on top of your car. In such situation level 5|6 is much more appropriate.

This is a general rule of thumb that would apply to any light regardless of their size/batteries.

*Secur1: *v1.1 battery tube (with tritium slot) are now available, please check the Payment thread.

*crewcabrob: *Wow! going thru 2x cell 3x (effectively 6x cells) within a day, which is ~ 4-5 hrs of use. You really got to put that toy down otherwise I'll start getting flame mail your Misses.


----------



## Secur1

modamag said:


> *Secur1: *v1.1 battery tube (with tritium slot) are now available, please check the Payment thread.



Will that be the only upgrade option available to v1 XRE owners ?


----------



## modamag

What other option do you need?
The other parts is the full LE. If so I need to work out a $$$ difference.


----------



## Secur1

Could you possibly make out a list of changes from my version to the latest one ?
I am a bit comfused with all the new stuff, secret sause etc....


----------



## modamag

*=== Draco Enhancements ===*
1. Tritium slots will replace the round GID hole on the battery tube. Battery tube change.
2. Increase the number of rotation between the battery tube and LE. LE change.
3. Improved thermal path. LE change.
4. Maybe Seoul P4 compatible. LE change.
5. O-ring standardization. Same oring for all the junction to save part number & my whooping cost. LE change.
6. Drake battery tube.
7. SSC P4 Turbo Head.


----------



## Secur1

Thanks for that 

I think i'll hold off and get a complete second light then


----------



## Psychomodo

modamag said:


> *=== Draco Enhancements ===*
> 1. Tritium slots will replace the round GID hole on the battery tube. Battery tube change.
> 2. Increase the number of rotation between the battery tube and LE. LE change.
> 3. Improved thermal path. LE change.
> 4. Maybe Seoul P4 compatible. LE change.
> 5. O-ring standardization. Same oring for all the junction to save part number & my whooping cost. LE change.
> 6. Drake battery tube.
> 7. SSC P4 Turbo Head.



Regarding enhancement 7. :rock:

Are you offering an upgrade to our original Turbo Head (to Seoul P4)? :naughty:

If so, can I send mine back for you to do it for me? (How much?) 

Cheers Jonathan :goodjob:


----------



## vortechs

modamag said:


> *=== Draco Enhancements ===*
> 6. Drake battery tube.


Is that what I think it is?


----------



## crewcabrob

modamag said:


> Regarding the operation of burst mode for extended period of time with AAA Li-Ion.
> You can as long as you used it as designed, holding the light with your hand to induce the liquid (blood) cooling affect then there should be no problem. If you're out skiing the outside temperature gradient is more than enough to keep it cool.
> 
> However, if you're in Arizona when the outside temp is 100F/38C I would not recommend you keep it on burst while sitting on top of your car. In such situation level 5|6 is much more appropriate.
> 
> This is a general rule of thumb that would apply to any light regardless of their size/batteries.
> 
> *crewcabrob: *Wow! going thru 2x cell 3x (effectively 6x cells) within a day, which is ~ 4-5 hrs of use. You really got to put that toy down otherwise I'll start getting flame mail your Misses.



I love this thing! Yeah, the wife knows I got a new toy, but she hasn't really seen it yet. I'll make sure she doesn't catch wind of your email address, that will keep the hate mail from making it your way.  

I have used it at least that much. I want to make sure I know everything about a new torch: beam pattern, run time, UI, components... I want to be able to answer the questions I get on it and make sure I can endorse the purchases I make. I can certianly endorse your little gem!

I'm still getting used to the settings, and how it behaves. I never seem to be able to guess what level it will power on with, but it is very easy to adjust once I figure out where it is.

I'll be contacting you soon about the extender tube and some cells. I will take to heart your advice about the burst mode and run times. 

Thanks,

Rob


----------



## sideman7

crewcabrob said:


> I'm still getting used to the settings, and how it behaves. I never seem to be able to guess what level it will power on with, but it is very easy to adjust once I figure out where it is.


After carrying mine for a few days, I am running into this too... No matter how much I unscrew the head (short of it falling off), in my pocket, it somehow manages it active itself and is never in the same mode I left it in. One time even the user set mode was reprogrammed to the lowest level. I've also had a few times I've taken it out of my pocket, and by simply touching the head of the light, it will come on for a split second and switch to the next level. Are there any slightly thicker o-rings available for this to maybe give it a bit more resistance to turning?


----------



## dduane

Sign me up! What does it involve on my part?

PS, when are you and Ernst available for a "run"?



modamag said:


> *=== Draco Enhancements ===*
> 1. Tritium slots will replace the round GID hole on the battery tube. Battery tube change.
> 2. Increase the number of rotation between the battery tube and LE. LE change.
> 3. Improved thermal path. LE change.
> 4. Maybe Seoul P4 compatible. LE change.
> 5. O-ring standardization. Same oring for all the junction to save part number & my whooping cost. LE change.
> 6. Drake battery tube.
> 7. SSC P4 Turbo Head.


----------



## goldserve

I never had this problem before. Don't be afraid to give it a good twist off. One other thing I can think of is the solder buldge on the board may be too thick and taking up previous space. When in doubt, ask Jonathan =D


----------



## bray

from my understanding, this run of lights that are shipping now have all the enhancements besides 4,6,7???


----------



## crewcabrob

sideman7 said:


> After carrying mine for a few days, I am running into this too... No matter how much I unscrew the head (short of it falling off), in my pocket, it somehow manages it active itself and is never in the same mode I left it in. One time even the user set mode was reprogrammed to the lowest level. I've also had a few times I've taken it out of my pocket, and by simply touching the head of the light, it will come on for a split second and switch to the next level. Are there any slightly thicker o-rings available for this to maybe give it a bit more resistance to turning?




Yep, same thing for me. I have been making sure that no amount of preasure I put on the head will let the light turn on. Yet, I seem to end up in the user selected mode almost every time even though I make sure that I turn it off in burst mode and that is what I want it to power up in. 

Still, three turns and it is back to where I want it.  

I still love the little torch and I'm sure I will end up with another one soon.

Rob


----------



## goldserve

Well, only draco V2 will remember the last level it was in. Also, make sure to turn on the led AT LEAST 1second before turning it off to always start at low (version 1) or stay on current level (version 2)

The key is you need to turn it on AT LEAST 1 SECOND.


----------



## sideman7

goldserve said:


> Well, only draco V2 will remember the last level it was in. Also, make sure to turn on the led AT LEAST 1second before turning it off to always start at low (version 1) or stay on current level (version 2)
> 
> The key is you need to turn it on AT LEAST 1 SECOND.


It's this function of the flupic that is the root of this issue. Not that it's misbehaving here, but it's the brief contact (a fraction of a second) that is being made that flips it to the next mode. I've actually watched it happen when I've taken it out of my pocket. I had a similar issue with my Exolion until I put a tighter o-ring on. This may result in a slightly less fluid motion when turning the head, but for a light that you are sticking in your pocket, it really needs about as much resistance as say an Arc AAA if you don't want it to turn on by itself.

I've read here about people having the head fall off, so I guess this is an issue in both directions...


----------



## goldserve

There are measures in the system to keep it from changing states if the contact is less than 250ms. Funny how I never had that problem with mine..or the head falling off. Maybe ask jonathan to clean off some solder so it doesn't bulge as high on the contact.


----------



## sideman7

I don't know, maybe its a static issue for me (5% humidity will do that). I used to have an issue with my Exolion that I would go to turn it on and it would be on burst, strobe or even mode set (I keep it in mode 4). That shouldn't even be possible... About half the time I touch my HDS it lights up (real low) as well, so who knows...


----------



## modamag

*Psychomodo: *I envision there will be a Luxeon -> SSC P4 swap upgrade service offer in the near future for similar pricing as XRE swap. But please do not send it out at the moment until I have tested the reliability & durability of the mod.

*crewcabrob: *Regarding the FluPIC, the trick is to look for the quick blink @ ~1 second after you turn it on. That blink indicate that the current mode is locked in. The next time you turn it on it will be the same state. If you turn it off before that blink the next time you turn it on will the next mode.

*sideman7: *same recommendation as screwabrob. If I accidentally put too much Krytox lubrication then it would feel loose. Did I buildup too much solder on the + contact of the flupic? It should only be a thin film ~ 0.005-0.010" thick.

A new oring in heading your way hopefully resolving the problem.

In any case, if you have problem with yours feel free to send it back for failure analysis.

BTW: static electricity is most likely not the problem because the LE + is isolated from the body until you turn it on.

*dduane: *The run is scheduled for next next weekend.

*bray: *You're absolutely correct.


bray said:


> from my understanding, this run of lights that are shipping now have all the enhancements besides 4,6,7???


----------



## Icebreak

psst Jonathan. Spell check 3rd parargragh, 5th word.

Draco is becoming my most used light lately. I've been doing a lot of fishing at night. It's on a beaded chain around my neck. It's great for tying on a new lure. The other night I was tying on a plastic yellow wiggle tail grub on a jig. I think it was set to brightness level 4. I could see the PWM working on the wiggle tail. Pretty cool "strobe" effect. 

The other fishermen trip out on the Draco. Then I turn it to "practical joke" mode and point it at my hand. Whoa! 

I'm going through at least one battery cycle per day. I fell asleep with it on. It would not turn back on to any brightness mode. However, the battery still took a full charge. That's very cool.


----------



## sideman7

Jonathan,
I am familiar with how the flupic works (I have another light with one). Whatever was happening is a quick connection (usually when it's in my pocket) and even sometimes when I take it out I'll see it flash quickly and then the next time I turn it on it's in another mode. In my pocket it can change a few modes on it's own. Anyway, it is very sick now, and I will have to send it back anyway. It has completely gone nuts tonight and doesn't really work anymore... Sometimes it will come on, or on for 1 second then shut off, but most of the time it just flashes or flickers or doesn't come on at all... Or it come on really dim, or not at all, then you look at it to see if anything is coming out and it flashes really f^%!ing brightly right in your eyes then won't come on again... I cleaned the contacts and that didn't help...


----------



## modamag

oh man, it seems like your Draco is really sick pukking fire left and right. It's best to send it back so I can nurse it back to health.


----------



## crewcabrob

modamag
[b said:


> crewcabrob: [/b]Regarding the FluPIC, the trick is to look for the quick blink @ ~1 second after you turn it on. That blink indicate that the current mode is locked in. The next time you turn it on it will be the same state. If you turn it off before that blink the next time you turn it on will the next mode.
> 
> *sideman7: *same recommendation as screwabrob. If I accidentally put too much Krytox lubrication then it would feel loose. Did I buildup too much solder on the + contact of the flupic? It should only be a thin film ~ 0.005-0.010" thick.



It was pilot error all along, I was never waiting for the quick burst in any mode to lock that setting in for the next time it powered up. I think I was getting so caught up in the battery life/consumption that I didn't want to wait that WHOLE second for it to lock. Now that I have been through the battieries another time yesterday, I can see that I really don't need to worry about run time. So, Jonathan, screwcabrob fits right now. :naughty: 

It is easily my most used light. 

Thanks,

screwcabrob


----------



## Pumaman

Can anyone come up with close up side-by-side pics of TICN vs ALTIN? I have seen more altin pics than ticn. I'm having real trouble choosing between these. I know modamag is super-busy, anyone else have a camera and both finishes? Its not an inexpensive investment, so I would like to be sure.
much appreciated


----------



## ghadlock

Post deleted.


----------



## Pumaman

TiCN VS Chrome


----------



## eltel999

Hi all,

I've just ordered my Draco Cree XRE  

Can anyone tell me what the drive current of the flupic is set to for Burst and High?

I've search this thread but I've had no luck so far...

If it's been posted already I'd be grateful if you could point me to the post.

Many thanks,

Terry


----------



## Yota

Pumaman said:


> Can anyone come up with close up side-by-side pics of TICN vs ALTIN? I have seen more altin pics than ticn. I'm having real trouble choosing between these. I know modamag is super-busy, anyone else have a camera and both finishes? Its not an inexpensive investment, so I would like to be sure.
> much appreciated


 


Someone on here has to have a pic of both!
I would also like to be sure before I order.


----------



## Pumaman

eltel999 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I've just ordered my Draco Cree XRE
> 
> Can anyone tell me what the drive current of the flupic is set to for Burst and High?
> 
> I've search this thread but I've had no luck so far...
> 
> If it's been posted already I'd be grateful if you could point me to the post.
> 
> Many thanks,
> 
> Terry


 
yes, I am also curious if max is the same as level 10? is level 1 the same as low? 

If you can wait, I have a AlTiN on order to go with my TiCN and Dad's Chrome.


----------



## Strauss

From playing around with my Draco, I can tell you that the preset "low" level is not level 1 on the brightness menu. My guess would be level 2 or 3, as you can clearly tell level 1 is not as bright. In my measurements, the "low" level comes in around ~15 lumens out the front, while level 1 measures out to ~5 lumens. 

As for burst(high), I am not sure. I am guessing it must be at least 1amp, as I am measuring ~160 lumens out the front. I wouldn't be suprised if it was set to the normal flupic burst setting of 1.2amps.


----------



## goldserve

You are corrent, Low is not level 1, more like level 2. Burst is limited to less than 700ma for sure. It goes down from there as the battery is drained.


----------



## DM51

The specs say maximum current draw is 350mA, which is 2C for a 10280 cell. If it is 750mA, that is ~4C, which is a lot, not to mention inadvisable (except in very short bursts). Has anyone measured it accurately?


----------



## modamag

The max current is ~650mA mostly dependent on battery condition.
Burst = Level 10.

For the Draco FluPIC v1.0 (shipped with Luxeon) the Low setting was level 3.
For the Draco FluPIC v2.0 (shipped with Cree XRE) the Low setting was level 1 or 2.
The design of Low was to provide sufficient low light setting (5-10 lumens).

As for battery maintenance. I have mine EDC of the same two batteries (specially wrap in Polyimide tape). What I found was if you recharge regularly battery and prevent deep cycle will have a significant impact on extending your battery life. 

The current drain have little affect since I use Burst Mode for < 5 minutes @ a time. For longer task such as fixing a water pipe of disassembling my PC. It put it in User Set Mode (Level 4), which actually only consumes 75% less energy.

Oh, just in case you're interested why the high lumen number for such low current level. The secret sauce is the painful LED sorting and QC during the assembly process.


----------



## eltel999

modamag said:


> The max current is ~650mA mostly dependent on battery condition.
> Burst = Level 10.
> 
> For the Draco FluPIC v1.0 (shipped with Luxeon) the Low setting was level 3.
> For the Draco FluPIC v2.0 (shipped with Cree XRE) the Low setting was level 1 or 2.
> The design of Low was to provide sufficient low light setting (5-10 lumens).
> 
> As for battery maintenance. I have mine EDC of the same two batteries (specially wrap in Polyimide tape). What I found was if you recharge regularly battery and prevent deep cycle will have a significant impact on extending your battery life.
> 
> The current drain have little affect since I use Burst Mode for < 5 minutes @ a time. For longer task such as fixing a water pipe of disassembling my PC. It put it in User Set Mode (Level 4), which actually only consumes 75% less energy.
> 
> Oh, just in case you're interested why the high lumen number for such low current level. The secret sauce is the painful LED sorting and QC during the assembly process.



The 650mA drive level and "secret sauce" now explains the high lumens output, superb work Jonathan:twothumbs

I only ordered my Draco six days ago, but I'm already giving my postman a hard time each morning it doesn't arrive!


----------



## Kevski

Stupid question here... can any configuration of the Draco be run (in regulation) on AAA primaries (with the extension tube, of course)?


----------



## Ice

And one more question (sorry if it has been asked allready, but I didn't find anything really conclusive): Do you tighten the Draco's head or loosen it to turn it off? Thanks!


----------



## ScarabDrowner

tighten to turn on, loosen to turn off, repeat quickly to change modes


----------



## Ice

Thanks for the answer!
If you have to loosen the head to turn the light off, isn't there the possibility of loosing the head alltogether?
I've once had a similar light (well, of course similar just in that one aspect! ) and after some time the head was missing and only the battery tube was hanging on my key ring...


----------



## Ice

Double post, sorry!


----------



## ScarabDrowner

well, you don't have to loosen it that far, just until the light goes out. at that point, there are still enough threads holding it in place, and the o-ring helps grip it too. I've never had the head fall off of mine


----------



## dig-it

I can`t seem to find what size o-ring was used for the Draco. Is it listed anywhere?


----------



## skalomax

Hi,

I've been eyeballing this light for quite a while. I have one question, Is there a runtime graph for the Regulated 350mA Draco?

Thanks


----------



## Groundhog66

skalomax said:


> Hi,
> 
> I've been eyeballing this light for quite a while. I have one question, Is there a runtime graph for the Regulated 350mA Draco?
> 
> Thanks




You will not regret the purchase.


----------



## Strauss

Groundhog66 said:


> You will not regret the purchase.


 
I second that comment. It will REALLY suprise you once you see it in person. It makes a tube of chapstick look big....and mine puts out ~160 lumens OUT THE FRONT on burst! I know it's no SkalamanderII, but it will more than hold it's own for it's size  Now go buy one of these damn things!


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## modamag

The CC runtime was calculated to be ~25-30 minutes. There were couple special versions made to run at ~150mA which give you over an hour of runtime.

You *will* regret purchasing one because, it's like chips, you'll be back to grab another.


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## DM51

modamag said:


> You *will* regret purchasing one because, it's like chips, you'll be back to grab another.


True, true...


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## Ice

I'd like to ask (once again) a few questions concerning the Draco:
Does anybody know anything about the self discharge rate of those 10280 batteries? They seem to be rather new and kind of specially for the Draco, aren't they?
And could somebody tell me how many turns the head has to be rotated (measured from the off position) before it comes off?
Thanks a lot!


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## DM51

Ice said:


> I'd like to ask (once again) a few questions concerning the Draco:
> Does anybody know anything about the self discharge rate of those 10280 batteries? They seem to be rather new and kind of specially for the Draco, aren't they?
> And could somebody tell me how many turns the head has to be rotated (measured from the off position) before it comes off?
> Thanks a lot!


1. Hardly any self-discharge. They will probably still retain 90%+ even after a year. They are no different to other Li-Ions, except for their small size and the fact that they are unprotected (too small to fit a protection circuit). 

2. Just under 2 full turns.


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## smcharchan

modamag: 

I've had my Draco for some time now... an incredible light! I understand you are tied up with Drake right now, but thought I would share an idea with you. I've been using the cut-off end of a "chem light" and the cap off some chap stick for a spares carrier since I received the light, which works fine (see photo). 












Though this works, it is kind of silly to carry the spare for such a beautifully executed light in a hunk of plastic. How's about manufacturing an end cap for the battery tube to act as a spares carrier (a 'la HDS spares carrier)? I'd buy both a spare battery tube and the cap if offered!

Would anyone else be interested, or am I the only one thinking this? What do you think modamag? 

Thanks! -S


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## DM51

smcharchan said:


> How's about manufacturing an end cap for the battery tube to act as a spares carrier (a 'la HDS spares carrier)? I'd buy both a spare battery tube and the cap if offered!
> 
> Would anyone else be interested, or am I the only one thinking this?


Excellent idea! I would like this too!


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## modamag

Let's elaborate on such idea. How about a ...
Tritium Locator battery tube?

It would be "significantly more" cost effective than the Draco battery tube.
The battery tube is "the single most" expensive component of the light.

And I'll try to keep it _fashionable_.
What do you guys think?


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## bray

its hard as heck to find anything small enough for an extra battery to be stored in. so basically i love the idea


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## jeffb

Count me in for one, please.

jeffb


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## smcharchan

I have also used the following to carry my light and a spare:

http://www.paracordsecrets.com/products/36/product.html

The AA version is great for carrying the Draco! I use it to protect mine from other stuff in my pockets by inserting the light lens first. Note that a little heat and a "squeeze" is required to mod this product to ensure it holds the light firmly. The AAA version carries the spare battery effectively, but it can be difficult to remove the battery... especially in the dark!

The kydex products work well, but my favorite way to carry is as shown in my previous post, as I prefer to carry my Draco and spare batt in my pants watch pocket. The kydex battery holsters add too much bulk to do so comfortably. Metal "spy capsules" also work as a spares carrier. Just ensure that you add some non-conductive material in at least one end!

modamag: Thanks for the response. My original thought was actually to suggest an end cap for each end of the AAA extension tube. That way I would have the tube, extra o-rings, and a spare battery on me. Doesn't hurt to dream, right!

Side note/question: When using the extension tube my light won't fire up on a 1.5v AAA, only on a 10440. This is normal, right?


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## Bullzaye

A tritium locator battery tube...that's _fashionable_, no less? Sounds excellent! I'd likely be interested in one, depending on cost. 
Tim


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## Lurveleven

Look what my Draco got:






Yes, that is a white tritium. IMO it is much better looking than the colored ones. I have promised so send some to Modamag so other people get the chance to get it on their Draco/Drake as well. How many of you would be interested in this?

Sigbjoern


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## jch79

WOAH! Cool!  That looks awesome, Sigbjoern!

I for one would be IN LIKE FLYNN for a White Trit on my Drake!!! :thumbsup:

Nice work!

john


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## 9volt

smcharchan said:


> Side note/question: When using the extension tube my light won't fire up on a 1.5v AAA, only on a 10440. This is normal, right?



That is normal. It will only work with 10440s.


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## olrac

0


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## Oranac

first time i've been in the cpf forums in a while and wow, its like the people here are in my head ....

a few questions about this beauty;

-is it still available in any form?
-is there any way possible to buy the milled components of the build?
(without driver/emitter/cells what have you)
-if yes to the above, how do i purchase one/them?


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## modamag

-is it still available in any form?
Yes, --> Here

-is there any way possible to buy the milled components of the build?
Yes. Surplus and scrap is the most cost effective way. PM me your needs / plan.


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## lucolino

*is the draco and drake still available??*

hi from austria
i just bought a used drake and now i`m thinking
about a new draco.is it still available ?
here in the CPF at the draco/drake payment?
thanks


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## kaichu dento

*Re: is the draco and drake still available??*

You can find all the information at this thread - *=== Drake / Draco Payment === (PART 3)*

Can a mod lock this thread please?


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