# Lightsaver miser guts fit sf 6p tail!



## ma tumba (May 20, 2018)

Just found that the guts of the lightsaver incand multimode tail cap for SF E-series is a direct replacement for the stock 6p twisty tail cap. Just like mcclicky but better since no interface ring is required

To me this is huge. The aw multimode regulator has been unobtanium for years while this miser can be had for just $10 right now from here:
https://www.ebay.com/p/Lightsaver-M...for-Surefire-E1e-E2e-E2d-Flashlight/785708989

I have used the miser on my e2e with 350lm bulb on 2x imr, so at this load it functions great. Now tried it in the fm 1794 host, 1000lm for a couple seconds, it survived the test 

Go get some while supply lasts. Just paid for two


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## id30209 (May 20, 2018)

Well that's what i needed! Thumbsup!


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## id30209 (May 20, 2018)

I need to scroll through Fivemega threads, again. This is a big deal in sleepy incan world.


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## bykfixer (May 20, 2018)

Good info. Thanks.






The listing words incase the link above is verboten.


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## DayofReckoning (May 20, 2018)

How do you install this exactly? Or is it a tailcap? I''m confused


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## ma tumba (May 20, 2018)

I unscrewed the guts out of the miser with needle-nose pliers and then screwed them in in place of the mcclicky. Entirely straightforward


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## novice (May 20, 2018)

I don't have a PayPal account and don't do the Bay. I just tried searching for this product and didn't come up with any hits. If anyone finds a non-Bay source of this, could you please post it here or PM me? Thanks!

Edit: Oh, Gosh. Sometimes I am so ignorant in the ways of the world. I don't want to get a PayPal account, but did not realize until now that you could do a "buy it now" on the Bay as a "guest" using one's credit card. Anyway, I just purchased one of these. I have an empty Z24 shell I can screw the guts into, perhaps after playing with the entire unit on an e-series. Thanks ma tumba for this thread!


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## id30209 (May 21, 2018)

Guys keep us informed on service life (ie which combination you're using) i belive it says operating voltage 4-6V. I would use it in 2 IMR setup (7.4V) but still didn't arrived. Any info is welcome.


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## novice (May 21, 2018)

id30209 said:


> Guys keep us informed on service life (ie which combination you're using) i believe it says operating voltage 4-6V. I would use it in 2 IMR setup (7.4V) but still didn't arrived. Any info is welcome.[/QUOTE
> 
> The packaging says _3v_ - 6v, so it should run fine on one Li-ion. I just emailed the company ([email protected]) to ask if they think it will be okay up to 7.4v, or even 9v. Do they even know it will fit into a Z41, or that there are those of us who will be thinking along those lines? I didn't really mention modding, because I didn't want to upset any of their legal consultants. I will be curious to hear back from them.


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## id30209 (May 22, 2018)

Can't wait for an answer!


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## ma tumba (May 22, 2018)

Whatever they reply, I've been using the miser with 2x16350 imr @1.5amp for a year and this week I went through 2x18500 imr @3amps (the 1794 host with miser guts)


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## id30209 (May 22, 2018)

That's it then! More then enough! Thx


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## novice (May 24, 2018)

I received an email back from lightsaver, and Ma Tumba's experiences have definitely provided the most data of all.
Here is the email I sent lightsaver:
"Hi,
I recently bought several of your lightsaver miser units. I know that they are intended to be used in one- and two-cell 
Surefire E-series lights (which were never made in a 3-cell version), but I use rechargeable Li-ion cells most of the time,
and I was hoping that these could be used with 2x3.7 volts Li-Ion cells (for a total of 7.4 volts), or with 3xCR123a cells
(9 volts)to run other lamp assemblies. There are several other members of my flashlight forum who are quite curious about 
the same question, and who would be eager to buy them if the answer is yes. Do you think that this unit could run at up 
to 7.4 volts, and/or up to 9 volts? Thank you!"

Here is their reply:
"Good morning xxxxx.

Thank you for your mail, it is good to hear that the tail caps are still around !

We supplied to types of replacement tail caps for the Surefire E series.

1. Switch with dimming functions (100% - 50% - 25%) Not sure if this is the one you call the "Miser"

Unfortunately the maximum voltage for this product is 5.5V. So it can't be used at the voltages you describe.

2. Switch with strobing function (On - Off - Strobe)

This product has a voltage regulator. The maximum input voltage for the voltage regulator is 10V. So it might be possible to use this switch in your application.
Please measure T8 while the flashlight is on to check that the switching noise does not exceed 10V. The maximum current ability for the switching MOSFET is
4A so make sure the current does not exceed 4A.

I hope this information will be useful - please mail us if you have any more questions.


Kind Regards,
xxxx xxxxxxx
LIGHTSAVER(PTY)LTD."

After I bought the first one, I went back and got three more. Because of what Ma Tumba has done, I will put one on an e-series
running 1x17670, another e-series running 2x16340, the guts of another in a 6P+A19 running 2x17500, and the guts of one in a 
12ZM running 2x17670. We will see how things go for me.

Thank you again, ma tumba, for letting us know about all this and sharing your experiences.


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## ma tumba (May 24, 2018)

Interesting that while they market their product for e2e which is 6v flashlight, they are talking about 5.5v limit


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## novice (May 25, 2018)

ma tumba,
I received my order of lightsavers today. I installed 2 of them on 2 e-series, and they do what they are supposed to. This may seem like a silly question, but when I looked down into the guts - anticipating unscrewing some of them for some 6P tailcaps coming in - I have a hard time seeing anything past the spring. Did you pull the spring out? Did you just gently insert your needle-nose pliers in through spaces in the spring, and then start turning? Are there "official" spanner wrench divots in there? Thank you!


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## bykfixer (May 25, 2018)

ma tumba said:


> Interesting that while they market their product for e2e which is 6v flashlight, they are talking about 5.5v limit



123's are 3 ea volts resting. They sag under load to less than 2.8 so 5.5 is about right.


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## ma tumba (May 25, 2018)

novice said:


> ma tumba,
> I received my order of lightsavers today. I installed 2 of them on 2 e-series, and they do what they are supposed to. This may seem like a silly question, but when I looked down into the guts - anticipating unscrewing some of them for some 6P tailcaps coming in - I have a hard time seeing anything past the spring. Did you pull the spring out? Did you just gently insert your needle-nose pliers in through spaces in the spring, and then start turning? Are there "official" spanner wrench divots in there? Thank you!



As far as I remember, there is a black retaining ring on the opposite side, around the rubber button. You need to unscrew this ring and remove the guts with the spring


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## ma tumba (May 25, 2018)

bykfixer said:


> 123's are 3 ea volts resting. They sag under load to less than 2.8 so 5.5 is about right.



That is correct of course


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## DayofReckoning (May 25, 2018)

Just ordered one of these tailcaps for my E2E. I plan on running mine on 2 IMR 16430's and a Lumens Factory HO-E2R. I hope I have good luck running on the IMR's like ma tumba has. I will make sure to report back my results.

The price of these things almost seem too good to be true.


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## LiftdT4R (May 27, 2018)

Just picked one up. Can't wait to try it out. I wonder why they say no LED? This on an E series with a VME Head and an M61 would be ideal! I have a bunch of incans I'll try it on if it doesn't work out like that though.


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## novice (May 27, 2018)

LiftdT4R said:


> I wonder why they say no LED?



LiftdT4R, I can't give you a technical reason, but I tried one of my recently-arrived Lightsavers on an E2L AA Outdoorsman with an E2C adapter, Z44, and M31L. It didn't really work. No flickering that I noticed, but on the 2nd click, it dropped down in brightness, _but just barely_. Certainly not 50%. Three clicks in a row dropped the brightness down twice, but again,_ just barely each time_. For whatever reason - at least for me - it didn't work the way that it works with incan.


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## fivemega (May 27, 2018)

*To run an incand bulb dimmer, all you need to do is just lower the voltage (under drive) but LED driver needs minimum voltage to run. Anything less won't even powerize the driver.
To run an LED dimmer, driver needs to control the current.*
=============


DayofReckoning said:


> I plan on running mine on 2 IMR 16430's and a Lumens Factory HO-E2R.





ma tumba said:


> Interesting that while they market their product for e2e which is 6v flashlight, they are talking about 5.5v limit


*pair of Lithium primaries will run OK within the voltage limit but pair of rechargeable will have way higher than limit.*


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## DayofReckoning (May 28, 2018)

OP says he has been running his on 2x16350 imr for a year with no problems. The 6V limit *might* be bogus and just a CYA by the company. ​


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## DayofReckoning (May 29, 2018)

Man this little tailcap is AWESOME!!! Wow. 

I always considered the A2 Aviator to have a big advantage over the E2E in that it offered a long running mode for those times when you didn't need full output. Now with this tailcap, it has certainly closed the gap some between these two lights usefulness.

And it seems to be running just fine with 2X16350 IMR's so far.


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## id30209 (May 29, 2018)

One of the best things happend recently. And cheap!
Everybody seems satisfied with it.


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## DayofReckoning (May 29, 2018)

Here is a piece of useful information I found. Look at that runtime and efficiency!

The values shown show burn times with a discharge to 50% off charged battery voltage. Click here to View the Chart.
• P60 6V FP � Full Power discharge 100%
• P60 6V MP � Medium Power discharge 50%
• P60 6V LP � Low Power discharge 25%Test Value Time for Useful Light to 50% of battery voltage:
• 100% - 1H 12 Minutes 
• 50% - 2H 24 Minutes 
• 25%- 4H 10 Minutes 
• Slow Function Only -- Can achieve a 8X factor of battery life in emergency conditions.

Apparently they make/made an Olive drab tailcap too. I emailed the Ebay seller but he says he is not likely to get one in stock.

I would really like to know how this tailcap is working exactly. I also wonder if the lamp life will be reduced.


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## id30209 (May 30, 2018)

That is what we were looking for. It would be great to see them in FM incan mods.


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## id30209 (May 31, 2018)

Just stumbled uppon this one:
http://www.armyproperty.com/store/p...ser-153-multi-function-tailcap-switch-upgrade

Check on voltage range usage!!!
This one is 6P,Z,M version.
Anyone here in the army or know somebody to purchase for us who is interested?


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## sidfishez (Jun 1, 2018)

I just removed the mechanism from a lightsaver I already had and tried it on a nitrolon cap. The assembly only goes so far into the cap, so the button is not quite flush with the outside of the cap. Also the cap only goes on a couple of turns. Outside of that, the switch works as described: three light levels and two blinking modes.


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## id30209 (Jun 1, 2018)

sidfishez said:


> I just removed the mechanism from a lightsaver I already had and tried it on a nitrolon cap. The assembly only goes so far into the cap, so the button is not quite flush with the outside of the cap. Also the cap only goes on a couple of turns. Outside of that, the switch works as described: three light levels and two blinking modes.



I belive it will work, ma tumba already told he's using it for some period of time but i'm eachy on that true 6V-12V option...


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## ma tumba (Jun 1, 2018)

I dont understand the voltage limit. When on, the voltage drop over the switch is a small fraction of the battery voltage because most of it drops over the bulb. When off, there is no current to burn anything inside the switch


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## id30209 (Jun 1, 2018)

ma tumba said:


> I dont understand the voltage limit. When on, the voltage drop over the switch is a small fraction of the battery voltage because most of it drops over the bulb. When off, there is no current to burn anything inside the switch



I'm not much into electrics/electronics knowledge, i'm more of a guy "if it works i use". The thing i'm stuck on this army option is because it's for army so it should be more rugged.


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## DayofReckoning (Jun 1, 2018)

After using my Lightsaver miser for the last few nights I have to say, unequivocally, that this little jem is the most amazing piece of kit I've encountered in a long time. I couldn't be more happy. It's almost like turning an incan into an LED.

How has this thing been so criminally overlooked here amongst us flashaholics?

I would gladly pay double, triple even what these are selling for.


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## id30209 (Jun 1, 2018)

DayofReckoning said:


> After using my Lightsaver miser for the last few nights I have to say, unequivocally, that this little jem is the most amazing piece of kit I've encountered in a long time. I couldn't be more happy. It's almost like turning an incan into an LED.
> 
> How has this thing been so criminally overlooked here amongst us flashaholics?
> 
> I would gladly pay double, triple even what these are selling for.



Exactly! That's why i'm harassing armyproperty with emails. Still no response. I need more options!


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## DayofReckoning (Jun 1, 2018)

id30209 said:


> Exactly! That's why i'm harassing armyproperty with emails. Still no response. I need more options!



I sent them an email earlier this week. No response either I'm afraid


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## id30209 (Jun 1, 2018)

DayofReckoning said:


> I sent them an email earlier this week. No response either I'm afraid



(


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## The Whispering Gallery (Jun 1, 2018)

Ordered 2. I've been wanting a multimode incandescent light for a couple of years. Is there any way to add a resistor to a 6P or similar host to get even more levels? Something like a high/low ring that would work with a P60 lamp?


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## DayofReckoning (Jun 3, 2018)

I discovered a small shortcoming with the Lightsaver miser tailcap last night. Apparently, if the light gets jarred/shaken hard enough, the light will shut off. I had to shake it quite hard in order for it to do so, so in real world use, it will probably never be an issue.

I'm not sure if running a single cell like a 17670 or 16650 would eliminate this problem or not.

Not a biggie, but I thought it was worth mentioning.


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## DayofReckoning (Jun 3, 2018)

Ok, I just put a 16650 cell in and tried to duplicate the problem above. No issues. So it apparently is only when running two cells.


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## ma tumba (Jun 3, 2018)

I guess that when you shake the light there are moments when batteries disconnect from the bulb for the spring is not strong enough. The 16650 is a bit thicker than 16350, so friction would help keeping it in place


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## DayofReckoning (Jun 3, 2018)

That certainly seems to be the case here.


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## id30209 (Jun 8, 2018)

Guys, i was busy last days harassing Lightsaver manufacturer directly. Anyhow here is their respond:

"Hello Gordon.

I apologise for the late reply – the past few days we were looking at possible ways to assist you.

We did the replacement tail cap project quite a few years ago when the strongest LED was only 3 Watt – how quickly has technology advanced !

We have unfortunately developed printed circuit boards that can only handle up to 3.7V.

We can perhaps build up a few boards by hand - how many do you need ?

We will also need the full spec of the Sure Fire model that you want to use, to make sure that our chip interface will be compatible."

They will respond on Monday with the details. Long story short, they are willing to build switches but i think it will have more effect is as many of us send them email.
In numbers is our strength...
Their email is: 
[email protected]


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## DayofReckoning (Jun 8, 2018)

Id30209, what is it exactly that you are wanting the Lightsaver makers to make for you?


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## id30209 (Jun 8, 2018)

DayofReckoning said:


> Id30209, what is it exactly that you are wanting the Lightsaver makers to make for you?



6-12V switch, similar as AWs was operating, at least.
Not to be limited on ebay and moody sellers...
If ther is a possibility to get a switch as you would like, why not to take a chance


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## DayofReckoning (Jun 8, 2018)

id30209 said:


> 6-12V switch



I've been heavily using my Lightsaver switch with two IMR 16340's since I got it, and have had zero issues. The op has been using his for a year with no issues. I think you are getting a little hung up on that "6V limit" the manufacturer has on it. 

I'm not sure about 12V, that could be too much, but at the same time I'm pretty sure this switch can definitely handle more than the 6V they are specifying. 

I don't know if someone with enough tech know how could tear one of these apart and be able to see exactly how much it could handle.


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## id30209 (Jun 8, 2018)

My plan is to build 3 liion setup, that's way i need it. Sorry if i didn't mentioned it previously. 
Miser we all have is just fine with 2 liions.


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## DayofReckoning (Jun 8, 2018)

id30209 said:


> My plan is to build 3 liion setup, that's way i need it. Sorry if i didn't mentioned it previously.
> Miser we all have is just fine with 2 liions.



As cheap as these tailcaps are, maybe you could sacrifice one and try it with 3 Li-ion's. Maybe it will work just fine. Only one way to find out.


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## id30209 (Jun 8, 2018)

DayofReckoning said:


> As cheap as these tailcaps are, maybe you could sacrifice one and try it with 3 Li-ion's. Maybe it will work just fine. Only one way to find out.



I agree and i already thought about but i had a big issues to talk into the seller to ship it to Europe. For you guys in US it's not a problem to order as much as you like but for me it's a nightmare. And shipping...


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## DayofReckoning (Jun 8, 2018)

id30209 said:


> I agree and i already thought about but i had a big issues to talk into the seller to ship it to Europe. For you guys in US it's not a problem to order as much as you like but for me it's a nightmare. And shipping...



Very true


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## night.hoodie (Jun 8, 2018)

LightSaver tailcaps have been available for maybe a decade? But far and away this is the best thread on CPF concerning them. It is interesting that the guts of the LightSaver for E-Series fits into standard P tailcaps, however, the LightSaver for C&P Series is not all that unattractive, and it tailstands.

The LightSaver Miser for E-Series has its charm, physically speaking, allows tailstanding, but is kind of bulky, as big as an Elite head.

Please tell Dirk what _we really want_ is a LightSaver with _much faster_ PWM, 11% L-> 33% M-> 100% H (each mode advance is triple the previous mode output) interface with no blinkies, that fits inside a z52 tailcap or z68 tailcap as a replacement, or inside a hypothetical LightSaver's z52 & z68 copy. E-Series is supposed to be compact, not bulky.


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## ma tumba (Jun 8, 2018)

id30209 said:


> My plan is to build 3 liion setup, that's way i need it. Sorry if i didn't mentioned it previously.
> Miser we all have is just fine with 2 liions.



I just returned from the us where I picked two more misers. I do plan test one with 3 liions over the weekend


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## id30209 (Jun 8, 2018)

ma tumba said:


> I just returned from the us where I picked two more misers. I do plan test one with 3 liions over the weekend



You should have told me to drop you some money 
Yes, please! Since you have dozzens...We would appreciate your feedback after hard test.


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## id30209 (Jun 8, 2018)

night.hoodie said:


> LightSaver tailcaps have been available for maybe a decade? But far and away this is the best thread on CPF concerning them. It is interesting that the guts of the LightSaver for E-Series fits into standard P tailcaps, however, the LightSaver for C&P Series is not all that unattractive, and it tailstands.
> 
> The LightSaver Miser for E-Series has its charm, physically speaking, allows tailstanding, but is kind of bulky, as big as an Elite head.
> 
> Please tell Dirk what _we really want_ is a LightSaver with _much faster_ PWM, 11% L-> 33% M-> 100% H (each mode advance is triple the previous mode output) interface with no blinkies, that fits inside a z52 tailcap or z68 tailcap as a replacement, or inside a hypothetical LightSaver's z52 & z68 copy. E-Series is supposed to be compact, not bulky.



Thank you for inputs, will send them an email straight away.


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## ma tumba (Jun 8, 2018)

id30209 said:


> You should have told me to drop you some money
> Yes, please! Since you have dozzens...We would appreciate your feedback after hard test.



LOL, have just 3, but I can get more, shipped to my us based friend


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## id30209 (Jun 8, 2018)

ma tumba said:


> LOL, have just 3, but I can get more, shipped to my us based friend



Dude, you're killing me.
Will send you PM


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## DayofReckoning (Jun 8, 2018)

These Tailcaps have also been manufactured in Natural/OD before. http://www.armyproperty.com/images/products/v1/AG_LSF13_L_1.jpg 

It would be nice if they would make some more of these available.


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## id30209 (Jun 8, 2018)

Noted DayofReckoning.
Before i send an email, please, all of you reading this and want to buy these switches (if they say yes) how much?
I do belive numbers are what every manufacturer is interested for.


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## DayofReckoning (Jun 8, 2018)

I plan on sending an email to them explaining what we are looking for, and making it known to them that there are some of us that would gladly buy these new tailcaps, should they decide to make them for us.


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## id30209 (Jun 8, 2018)

DayofReckoning said:


> I plan on sending an email to them explaining what we are looking for, and making it known to them that there are some of us that would gladly buy these new tailcaps, should they decide to make them for us.



That's what i was saying. Thumbsup!
Just go ahead, they're nice and will reply.
Here's the other email:
[email protected]

But don't forget i'm looking for 6P Z41,58,59 6-12V version 
Or even better like AW switch, no matter what voltage always 30-60-100%


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## novice (Jun 8, 2018)

I just sent Dirk an e-mail, telling him that in addition to desiring two e-series switches "officially" handling up to 7.4 volts, I also _really_ wanted three of the 6v-12v tailcap switches of the type that they used to make for the 6P. I tried to project a sense of collective enthusiasm amongst my fellow CPFers and I, and I used the term "the bee's knees" in order to convey my abject sincerity. Keep those cards and letters coming, folks!


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## ma tumba (Jun 10, 2018)

Just tried the sf tailcap with the miser guts with a fm axial 11v bulb in the fm 1794 with 3x vapcell 1100ma 18350 cells. Worked just fine for about a minute then I switched it off.

One thing bothered me tho. Normally at 100% level the switch is silent and it is at lower levels when it gives out the hiss. In this setup however I could clearly hear some buzz at 100 as well. Just wanted to mention this


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## id30209 (Jun 10, 2018)

You really did it?! Kudos. Thx for info.


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## ma tumba (Jun 10, 2018)

Tried this switch with 2x 18350 and it puts out the buzz at 100% as well, maybe just less loud but not sure.


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## The Whispering Gallery (Jun 11, 2018)

Will the guts of the Lightsaver only fit into a 6P tailcap with a McClicky installed? Will it fit into a regular Solarforce tailcap? I'm looking to purchase a host specifically for incandescent use with the Lightsaver.


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## ma tumba (Jun 11, 2018)

I failed to remove the switch from a solarforce tailcap. It sat too tight. So I personally don't have the answer


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## id30209 (Jun 12, 2018)

Email received from manufacturer, they wont produce any version above 6V. I replied with question if they can replicate miser but in C form. Waiting for answer.


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## LiftdT4R (Jun 15, 2018)

Just wanted to post some pics for anyone thinking about buying one of these. I highly recommend it, it really breathes new life back into any 6P or the like.

Here's what all you get. You can see that even though the switch housing itself its designed for an E body Surefire that on the top of the siwtch there is a retaining ring that can be removed and the "guts" can be re-installed in a 6P or your favorite C bodied Surefire.







I removed the ring with a small pair of needle nose pliers.






And here's what's inside. You won't need the silver spacer or the black threaded retaining ring. You can set those aside.






Next take a 6P switch housing. In this case I'm using a Surefire Nitrolon G2. Disassemble the stock switch. Matt from Adventure Sport has a good video on YouTube for this at:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7ToMyo5_k4

And here's my disassembled switch.






Next you'll want to pop the Light Saver Miser switch into the empty Surefire housing. Be sure to leave out the silver spacer and threaded ring. Even though the ring will thread in it will make the entire assembly to large and your switch won't screw back onto the body completely.






And you're good to go. In this example I'm putting together a new old stock Nitrolon G2 with a cheap KAI Domain 9V Xenon bulb and 2 Keeppower 16340s. A 16650 and a 3.7V bulb would be a better choice due to their much greater capacity but I got a ton of these 16340s from work so I'm going to roll with them.






And the completed light:






Here's a few beam shots. The light comes on high and cycles throw to medium, low, and a couple strobe modes. I prefer a light that starts in low but that's my only gripe. Otherwise the UI is pretty standard. The low mode is really nice and I find myself using it the most. If I have a chance I'll do a run time test on low. I usually get about half an hour or so on high so if the low is truly 25% I'm guessing the run time is around 2 hours.
















Hope this helps some folks who are thinking about purchasing one!


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## id30209 (Jun 15, 2018)

Great tutorial but i must add that aluminium retaining ring with rubber in the center might be needed in some other tailcaps ie. 2LM Z41 because it's quite deep. You can also use washer and some grinding skills. FM penta is in the same basket, if you want to install it you need to cut down pentas alu mcklicky retainer for nearly half.


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## LiftdT4R (Jun 15, 2018)

Thanks for the heads up! I should add that I only tried it in a Z41 and a Nitrolon switch so I can't confirm any others.


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## id30209 (Jun 15, 2018)

No worries! You've posted what you have and i posted my setup. Maybe somebody will add some other brands and at the end we'll have everything


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## night.hoodie (Jun 15, 2018)

id30209 said:


> ... no matter what voltage always 30-60-100%



Whoa there, please explain why this is your preference? How is this any different from 25-50-100% (reverse order UI to what LightSaver Miser already is)? My suggestion of 11-33-100% is intended to make each advancing mode appear twice as bright as the previous (33% should appear twice as bright as 11%, 100% should appear twice as bright as 33%).

I just came back to suggest that someone check the resistance of these Misers, as I noticed recently the LightSaver on 100% was not nearly as bright as the same config with a z52.

Also, possibly this works and I just panicked: I tried LightSaver with 2xLFE14500, and it didn't fire. I wasn't testing it, I just expected it to work. Nothing. When I switched the Miser back to a 2xCR123A to make sure I didn't fry it, it still worked. If this actually happened, then 2xIMR16340 or 2xIMR18350 should also not work, and that blows (esp. because I was hoping to use this with a FiveMega 1000lm setup, and had already suggested its use to others). Confirmation (or denial) needed. I only have the one Miser left right now, don't want to risk frying it (I have somehow fried one before, no longer works).


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## id30209 (Jun 16, 2018)

1.Don't know why 30-60-100%, left in my mind from previous chat about AW's soft start.
2.I bet it has nice ammount of resistance...you can't buy that purpose electronic in a housing, packed for 10$ and expect to be top notch...
3.I'm only using 2xIMR18350 in FM1794 1000lm setup but with different tailcap. Need to rework retaining ring to use it in penta


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## novice (Jun 16, 2018)

night.hoodie said:


> ...then 2xIMR16340 or 2xIMR18350 should also not work, and that blows (esp. because I was hoping to use this with a FiveMega 1000lm setup, and had already suggested its use to others). Confirmation (or denial) needed.



I just re-confirmed that it works on 2x IMR 16340 in an E2E running an EO-E2E (all modes, and I don't hear a buzz), and it works on 2x IMR 18350 in a "Rothrandir" split-body running a TL-3 in a Fivemega adapter (all modes, and I don't hear a buzz).


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## id30209 (Jun 16, 2018)

I can confirm aswell that buzz can be heard only if there's no good contact on miser bottom pcb outer gnd circle and battery tube, body, host (whatever you like). If properly seated and adjusted then no matter what batt setup you use the buzz will be gone.


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## The Whispering Gallery (Jul 22, 2018)

I was able to install the Lightsaver guts in a Solarforce L2M tail cap. I used the Lightsaver switch boot because the Solarforce boot did not fit over the button on the Lightsaver switch. The Lightsaver boot seems to fit acceptably in the opening in the Solarforce tail cap but I don't know if there is any difference in water resistance.

I tested the Lightsaver with 2xEneloops (3V) and it works with a 3.7V bulb. The lowest mode is sublumen. I would put it between 0.03 and 0.15 lumens by comparing to an HDS 200 levels 2-6. The Lightsaver did not seem to work with 1 Eneloop.


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## night.hoodie (Jul 23, 2018)

I can't resist, makes me want to get into P60... will be hunting for the right light for a few weeks. But after a cursory search, and knowing nothing about P60, what incandescent dropins are you using? What is practically available? Appears there are three or four basic choices, 3V, 6V, 9V and possibly? 12V? for 1, 2, 3, &4 primary 3V cells. What are you using for secondary 4.2V cells? All I can tell is there is (was) an R30 for 3V, P60 for 6V, P90 & P91 for 9V. What are the non-obvious secrets of P60 bulb lamps, as far as cell configurations?


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## id30209 (Jul 23, 2018)

I use TadCustoms 3712, 3718, FM 1794 in various hosts. From E1E, E2E and FM 1794 (adapting original tailcap still in progress). Although haven’t tried with SF bulbs...But any bulb in range 3-6V as per lightsaver instruction will work, even 7.4V bulbs would do.


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## ma tumba (Jul 23, 2018)

I still think that fivemega's 1794/1499 hosts are the best things for c-type tails. If you dont need the power of 1794/1499 you can use bipin mglite replacement bulbs. 5D works great with 2x liions, 3D is fine with 1x liion. Never tried that but 2D should do well with 2x AA in a 2x18500 host


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## night.hoodie (Jul 24, 2018)

id30209 said:


> I use TadCustoms 3712, 3718, FM 1794 in various hosts. From E1E, E2E and FM 1794 (adapting original tailcap still in progress). Although haven’t tried with SF bulbs...But any bulb in range 3-6V as per lightsaver instruction will work, even 7.4V bulbs would do.



Tad Customs lamps and sockets future-proofed incan E, though fit in socket they may not meet the shock specs of Surefire lamps, they are quite wonderful for all my flashlighting. My problem (maybe not uncommon) is finding enough Elite heads to fit another E socket. With Lightsaver softstart tailplant into C tails and the better availability of 6P hardware, Surefire still selling P60 lamps, my desire for a P60 incan increased. A bored 9P original will make it into my collection, I bet, so many cell configurations, versatile, but the incan pocket light is always a goal. I want to see 2 cell 1000lm incan, even if I can't yet see a use for it. 

P60 incan is not future-proofed, even if incan dropins are not rare. If I can't acquire a FiveMega FM-D26, I hope to steal the idea for a one off for use with Tad lamps, for me Tad Customs lamps nail all sweet spots. I'm keeping my E's, and collecting more bodies (and invariably more complete E2e's) but I can't saturate my desire for incan with what I currently have available (due to deficit of incan E heads). The journey is very slow, but recognizing what I want next is quite a lot of fun. 

My ideal incan light is a Tad Customs A3712 matched with a single 1200mAh KeepPower UH1835P, and what is around that is becoming less important to me, though I want a build that is reliable, durable, attractive, and tactile... and soft start saves lamps. There are 18mm single cell tubes, I think Solarforce has a P60 single cell 18mm tube, the 3P bored also of course... the point is I think I can find complete lights, and I'm not as sure about finding loose Elite heads.

When Mark introduces his E incan reflector heads at Lumens Factory, my P60 dreams may fade a little, but soft start in the Standard P tail is such a neat discovery, I must have a build that includes it.


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## id30209 (Aug 3, 2018)

Gents, Christmas came early this year (sort of).
Just got an answer from Armyproperty ( http://www.armyproperty.com/store/p...ser-153-multi-function-tailcap-switch-upgrade ) that they are willing to sell 6-12V 6P,G2,Z2,C2 tailcaps as well E1/E2 tailcaps. They are suggesting to get a number of people that would like to purchaase with exact number of each model to get a group discount.
So i would kindly ask you to give it a look on their webpage and drop me a PM with your interest.

This is a good chance to finally get those good looking tails in our bigger flashlights without a need to disassemble original tailcaps and since their version is better looking than E series it can fit without a bigger cosmetic discrepancy.
These are operating in 6-12V range so mods with 2 and 3 Li-ion's are fully covered )))
Let me know who's interessted!

https://postimg.cc/gallery/33kr7d6bc/


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## novice (Aug 3, 2018)

This _is_ good news!


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## night.hoodie (Aug 3, 2018)

I concur on all counts, the P/C series LightSaver Miser tails are as attractive as original Surefire hardware, and they tail stand. They are unlikely to be as durable as Surefire caps, but at least they are available and cheap(er than Surefire). The only P/C LightSaver tails I have seen available are the Blitzer variety, which steals the momentary function for strobe. Not a good trade-off. Excellent news they are still available.

Nice work, id30209. While your PM method will certainly work as long as your inbox isn't full, what is customary is to simply start a new thread with a description, pictures, and a list (often reserving the first reply to the thread, just in case), users can post their interest to the thread, and you can add them to the list. That might save you aggravation if the interest is popular, and you can also throw the link at ArmyProperty if the interest is massive, so they can see for themselves the product is still desired and has a market.


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## id30209 (Aug 3, 2018)

night.hoodie said:


> I concur on all counts, the P/C series LightSaver Miser tails are as attractive as original Surefire hardware, and they tail stand. They are unlikely to be as durable as Surefire caps, but at least they are available and cheap(er than Surefire). The only P/C LightSaver tails I have seen available are the Blitzer variety, which steals the momentary function for strobe. Not a good trade-off. Excellent news they are still available.
> 
> Nice work, id30209. While your PM method will certainly work as long as your inbox isn't full, what is customary is to simply start a new thread with a description, pictures, and a list (often reserving the first reply to the thread, just in case), users can post their interest to the thread, and you can add them to the list. That might save you aggravation if the interest is popular, and you can also throw the link at ArmyProperty if the interest is massive, so they can see for themselves the product is still desired and has a market.



Well noted! Was thinking about the new thread but since i'm at work don't have time for it at this moment, only quick post.
New thread coming shortly. This one was acceptable since guys in this one will be (most likely) the only one interested.


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## id30209 (Aug 4, 2018)

I've started a new thread, not to interfere with OP.
Link is here.


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## The Whispering Gallery (Aug 11, 2018)

The Whispering Gallery said:


> I was able to install the Lightsaver guts in a Solarforce L2M tail cap. I used the Lightsaver switch boot because the Solarforce boot did not fit over the button on the Lightsaver switch. The Lightsaver boot seems to fit acceptably in the opening in the Solarforce tail cap but I don't know if there is any difference in water resistance.
> 
> I tested the Lightsaver with 2xEneloops (3V) and it works with a 3.7V bulb. The lowest mode is sublumen. I would put it between 0.03 and 0.15 lumens by comparing to an HDS 200 levels 2-6. The Lightsaver did not seem to work with 1 Eneloop.



Quick follow-up: I found that the lowest voltage that allows the E series Lightsaver to work is 2.25V. Runtime on high (3.7V bulb so not too bright) to that point was about 45 min with regular 2000 mAh Eneloops.


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## LiftdT4R (Aug 14, 2018)

The Whispering Gallery said:


> Quick follow-up: I found that the lowest voltage that allows the E series Lightsaver to work is 2.25V. Runtime on high (3.7V bulb so not too bright) to that point was about 45 min with regular 2000 mAh Eneloops.



Hmmm, mine cuts out at 3.2volts. At least that's what my battery says when I put it on the charger. I have a couple others so maybe I got a bad one and I'll try those. Was a little disappointed by this because not much run time on a single 18650.


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## night.hoodie (Aug 17, 2018)

I had three Miser's compatible with E, gifted one, one still have and works, one failed.

I have been meaning to pull apart the switch, did today finally.
Here's the PCB (mostly these things are a mystery to me), I think I see where it went  













I wonder about, but can not address how much can be shaved off the edges without destroying its function to make-fit in smaller tailcaps, especially original E series z52, z57, et al.


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## rjking (Oct 16, 2018)

LiftdT4R;5215865
Next you'll want to pop the Light Saver Miser switch into the empty Surefire housing. Be sure to leave out the silver spacer and threaded ring. Even though the ring will thread in it will make the entire assembly to large and your switch won't screw back onto the body completely.
[IMG said:


> https://i.imgur.com/jgBnubN.jpg[/IMG]
> 
> And you're good to go. In this example I'm putting together a new old stock Nitrolon G2 with a cheap KAI Domain 9V Xenon bulb and 2 Keeppower 16340s. A 16650 and a 3.7V bulb would be a better choice due to their much greater capacity but I got a ton of these 16340s from work so I'm going to roll with them.



Just curious. No retaining ring to keep this switch in place?


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## LiftdT4R (Oct 16, 2018)

The supplied one didn't fit and I haven't found the need for one. The switch assembly stay in place because it is pretty tight inside the bore. I've been running this light a few nights every week now since August or so and it's been great even after multiple battery changes. Not loose at all.


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## rjking (Oct 18, 2018)

LiftdT4R said:


> The supplied one didn't fit and I haven't found the need for one. The switch assembly stay in place because it is pretty tight inside the bore. I've been running this light a few nights every week now since August or so and it's been great even after multiple battery changes. Not loose at all.



Thanks for that man.

My bored 6p is now rocking a P91 on 2 Keeppower IMR 1600 with this switch. :thumbsup: The only issue that I've noticed so far is you can no longer lockout the tail cap.


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## LiftdT4R (Oct 18, 2018)

rjking said:


> Thanks for that man.
> 
> My bored 6p is now rocking a P91 on 2 Keeppower IMR 1600 with this switch. :thumbsup: The only issue that I've noticed so far is you can no longer lockout the tail cap.



Awesome, yeah, that's correct, no more lockout. Did you mean 16340s? I was running a 9V on 2 - 16430s but the capacity is low on them and its really noticeable with the incan. I went to a 3.7V bulb and a 16650 and pretty much doubled my run time. I don't know of a real high output bulb though in 3.7V. Also, these miser switches seem to cut out at 3.2V which is a drawback. I wish they'd stay lit until 3V for even longer run time. No need to worry about that on 2 - 16340s.


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## archimedes (Oct 18, 2018)

LiftdT4R said:


> .... I don't know of a real high output bulb though in 3.7V....



LF EO-4 (3.7V, D26 format) ~ 190 lm ?


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## rjking (Oct 18, 2018)

LiftdT4R said:


> Awesome, yeah, that's correct, no more lockout. Did you mean 16340s? I was running a 9V on 2 - 16430s but the capacity is low on them and its really noticeable with the incan. I went to a 3.7V bulb and a 16650 and pretty much doubled my run time. I don't know of a real high output bulb though in 3.7V. Also, these miser switches seem to cut out at 3.2V which is a drawback. I wish they'd stay lit until 3V for even longer run time. No need to worry about that on 2 - 16340s.



I mean, Keeppower IMR 18350 1600 mah.


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## LiftdT4R (Oct 19, 2018)

archimedes said:


> LF EO-4 (3.7V, D26 format) ~ 190 lm ?



Very cool, I'll have to check that out. I have a C2 Centurion with a P61 back in the day and I can't believe the amount of batteries I went through. These Li-Ions are a god send! Compared to the LEDs it's easy to see all the extra juice they suck up though.


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## night.hoodie (Nov 1, 2018)

Lightsaver Miser does not advertise SoftStart as a feature, but perhaps this is because the name SoftStart may be a protected trademark. If anyone has ever flashed a lamp running with a Lightsaver Miser tail cap, please let us know about it. Personally, I have yet to kill a lamp with it. I have a suspicion there is a fast PWM ramp-up to direct drive in full brightness on that first mode that is effectively a SoftStart... but I have no idea how to find out for certain. If anyone has anecdotes about flashing lamps with Miser, then that would probably be definitive: no SoftStart. TIA


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## Greenbean (Nov 2, 2018)

I just picked up three, 

One now and two more on the way, 

Running it on an E2e w/single 16650 and I love the interface, the button feel is like an electrical button under it. Not near the travel of a McClicky. Oh and now my E2e can tail stand. Lol...

The tailcap itself is a piece of aluminum! I figured for the price it would be plastic but it’s not. 

Once the others come in one is going into a 6P for sure.


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## Greenbean (Nov 13, 2018)

I have discovered something with this unit! 

I put the one I took apart into a clone G2 but used a GITD boot, well I wake up the other night and look over and sure enough there is a red LED flashing inside of the GITD boot! 

I was kind of thinking “What the heck?!”

I keep forgetting to email the maker of these to see why it’s there as the boot isn’t a direct switch over if you wanna use the tailcap on an “E” series. So normally you can’t see the red LED in there anyways but why is it there?


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## LiftdT4R (Nov 13, 2018)

Hmm, pretty neat! I have a few old Nite Ize Mini Maglite switches that have this feature. They make it easier to locate at night and don't hardly use any battery.

My guess would be the original manufacturer used this on a number of different models some with this feature. I have all black boots on mine so I've never noticed.


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## DayofReckoning (May 7, 2019)

I've been using my Lightsaver Miser tailcap for approx 1 year now, and thought I would make a brief report.

In that time, I have used two different setups with it: LF HO-E2R with two IMR 16340 and LF EO-E1R with one 16650. The most usage has come from the EO-E1R and 16650. In a years usage, I have not had a single failure with the Miser tailcap. However, there are a few things I have noted.

1. My EO-E1R lamp seems like it has darkened quite rapidly. I have been using Lumens Factory lamps for many years, have owned many different types, and have a pretty good understanding of the rate at which they darken. And I feel that this lamp has darkened faster than any other I have owned/used. A large amount of the usage the lamp has seen has been from the lowest output mode the Miser allows. At this point, the bulb is VERY underdriven. We know that a lamp, when underdriven TOO much, will allow black deposits to develop. I'm thinking that running the lamp on the low mode might contributed to this lamp darkening very quickly. However, being a tiny sample of just one light, I cannot say for sure. Hopefully, others can comment of their experience.

2. Although I have not directly measured it, apparently there must be a high amount of resistance in this tailcap. During a runtime test, a new, freshly charged Keeppower 16650 only ran for approx 75 minutes using the EO-E1R lamp. Far less than one would expect. There is also a small, but noticeable decrease in whiteness/brightness when switching back between the Miser and factory tailcap.

Overall, the Lightsaver Miser tailcap is one of my favorite pieces of kit I've ever owned. The biggest mystery to me is how this amazing little tailcap has been so criminally overlooked is beyond my understanding. How these things actually work, and how/why they are priced so cheaply is also a mystery. I would really love to see someone with the know-how to tear one of these apart and give us some specifics of how exactly they work.


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