# Removal of burrs



## Black Rose (Jul 10, 2009)

I received a P60 host today that has a couple of issues that I am hoping I can resolve myself.

The first problem is that there is a burr in the bezel, a couple of mm from where the drop-in would rest against the "stop" that the lens rests on.
This burr prevents the drop-in from being easily inserted.
I am hoping I can simply take my Dremel tool and grind it down. Does this sound plausible?

The second one is a bit more complicated and I likely can't resolve it myself. The battery tube looks like they forgot to finish boring it.
An 18650 cell will slide about 3/4 in and then stops. When I put a light behind it and look down the tube, you can clearly see that it is hung up on something. 
It will take 16340 and 17670 cells no problem, but I wanted to use 18650 cells in it like the other one I bought.

I think about the only thing I could try would be to get a round file and run it through the battery tube until I wear down the bump that is stopping the battery from being inserted. Is this a reasonable idea, or should I just leave it alone and use the body with 16340 and 17670 cells?


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## darkzero (Jul 10, 2009)

*Re: Removal of burs*



Black Rose said:


> there is a bur


 
Might help if you give details on what type of "bur" you have. There's different methods to remove burs but without knowing where this bur is the right tool can't be recommended.

EDIT: :laughing: n/m


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## gadget_lover (Jul 10, 2009)

Yes to both. A dremel used with the little sanding drum will remove the burr. A file will probably remove the imperfection inside the battery tube, but caution is called for as it's easy to leave sharp edges that may damage a battery.

Daniel


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## saltytri (Jul 10, 2009)

If the light was advertised as an 18650 body, you are justified in returning it. If this isn't a reasonable option, try wrapping sandpaper around a dowel or other rod that is just a little smaller than the tube. You can then run the tube over the sandpaper until the battery fits. Sometimes this method is among the easiest and quickest, and gives a nicer finish than a file.


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## Black Rose (Jul 10, 2009)

saltytri said:


> If the light was advertised as an 18650 body, you are justified in returning it.


It wasn't advertised as having an 18650 body, I simply asked the seller if it was and they indicated it was. The second light takes an 18650 no problem. 

Returning it is not an option, as it costs as much to ship it back as what I paid for it :shakehead



> If this isn't a reasonable option, try wrapping sandpaper around a dowel or other rod that is just a little smaller than the tube. You can then run the tube over the sandpaper until the battery fits. Sometimes this method is among the easiest and quickest, and gives a nicer finish than a file.


Never thought of good old sandpaper.


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## precisionworks (Jul 11, 2009)

A brake cylinder hone is another option. Pretty inexpensive at any auto parts store. Power it with a variable speed hand drill or a drill press.


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## Black Rose (Jul 11, 2009)

It took almost 40 minutes with grinding stones and polishing brush to get the burr (more like a lip) ground down enough so that a drop-in will fit properly.

I'm going to leave the battery tube as-is for now. 
I'm using that battery tube with the incan drop-in for now, since it needs 2x16340 cells to operate.


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## KC2IXE (Jul 11, 2009)

precisionworks said:


> A brake cylinder hone is another option. Pretty inexpensive at any auto parts store. Power it with a variable speed hand drill or a drill press.



Problem with most hones is they clog really quickly on Aluminum (t-storm about to blow through here)


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## KowShak (Jul 13, 2009)

KC2IXE said:


> Problem with most hones is they clog really quickly on Aluminum (t-storm about to blow through here)


 
I found that if you can coat them ever so slightly with oil, aluminium doesn't stick to them so readilly. I found this out more by accident than anything, I handled one small grindstone (the sort that goes into a drill) with oily hands and the oil that was on my hands was enough to stop that one stone from clogging.

You can also remove aluminium from them by grinding a harder material e.g. steel but this will only work if they're slightly clogged, once fully coated with aluminium it seems pretty difficult to dislodge.


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## Tekno_Cowboy (Jul 14, 2009)

Might a reamer do the trick?


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## precisionworks (Jul 14, 2009)

> Might a reamer do the trick?


Other than the cost, a reamer is probably THE best tool for this job.


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## Black Rose (Jul 14, 2009)

I don't have a drill press or any way to clamp the body, so it's probably not wise to attempt it, even if I could get some sort of a reamer.

This tube doesn't appear to need much metal removed, but it seems to be right in the middle of the body where the issue is since I can insert an 18650 in either end of the body but not all the way.


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## Tekno_Cowboy (Jul 14, 2009)

You might just send it to someone who has a lathe and a reamer already.


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## BoarHunter (Jul 15, 2009)

As said above, a wood dowel, plastic tube with coarse than regular sand paper. Comm'on people, it is just an aluminum tube to hold batteries !!! Not a highly accurate piece made out of exotic material !!!

Honing tools are not designed for that. They are designed to hone, not to remove burrs, large quantities of metal and certainly not aluminum !
A reamer will cost more than the light.

Think simple for simple problems.


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## Black Rose (Jul 15, 2009)

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> You might just send it to someone who has a lathe and a reamer already.


The problem is I don't know anyone locally that has that kind of a setup and would have to ship it out. 
The shipping costs for this body is almost as high as the light actually cost  If they were reasonable, I would have simply returned the light.



BoarHunter said:


> As said above, a wood dowel, plastic tube with coarse than regular sand paper. Comm'on people, it is just an aluminum tube to hold batteries !!! Not a highly accurate piece made out of exotic material !!!


Maybe so, but since it took almost 40 minutes with a dremel to remove a 2mm x 1mm burr from the inside circumference of the head, it could take a while to get the middle of the tube fixed. 
Plus I'd have to go and buy a proper sized dowel and the sand paper since I don't have anything usable on hand.


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## precisionworks (Jul 15, 2009)

> Think simple for simple problems.


You sound like many of my customers, who bring in a "easy, simple job" that "should only take a few minutes". When I quote the job, their jaw drops & out the door they go.

Taking that much material out of a bore (that you cannot get your hand into) is neither fast nor easy. It is simple, if you have unlimited time & nothing else to do.


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## Atlascycle (Jul 16, 2009)

If what you removed from the head was 2mm x 1mm, that is not a Burr, you should have sent it back making them pay for the shipping back and for the replacement.

Jason


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## BoarHunter (Jul 16, 2009)

Black Rose said:


> The problem is I don't know anyone locally that has that kind of a setup and would have to ship it out.
> The shipping costs for this body is almost as high as the light actually cost  If they were reasonable, I would have simply returned the light.
> 
> 
> ...




??? You mentionned a BURR ! 2 by 1 mm is NOT a burr !

OK if you have to buy a dowell and sand paper, the best is you send it back to the seller for exchange.
The problem I see is not just a lack of tools.


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## BoarHunter (Jul 16, 2009)

precisionworks said:


> You sound like many of my customers, who bring in a "easy, simple job" that "should only take a few minutes". When I quote the job, their jaw drops & out the door they go.
> 
> Taking that much material out of a bore (that you cannot get your hand into) is neither fast nor easy. It is simple, if you have unlimited time & nothing else to do.



That is true but true also that sometimes simple jobs are charged a lot more than it should, because it appears the customer lacks the knowledge to make a proper judgment !


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## gadget_lover (Jul 17, 2009)

BoarHunter said:


> That is true but true also that sometimes simple jobs are charged a lot more than it should, because it appears the customer lacks the knowledge to make a proper judgment !




I agree. All the customer has to do in order to do that simple job himself is spend a few thousands of dollars for tools, learn how to use them and then find a place to keep them all. His time, of course is free.

When you ask a professional to do work, you have to remember that the 1/2 hour he spends doing a simple task for you is time that he can not charge someone else for doing complex, better paying work. You are paying for his time, his shop, his electricity, his tools and the tools that he needs to maintain his tools. And of course you are paying for years of experience.

If it was really easy and cheap then everyone would have a basic machine shop in their cupboard.

Daniel


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## KC2IXE (Jul 17, 2009)

gadget_lover said:


> ...snip...If it was really easy and cheap then everyone would have a basic machine shop in their cupboard.
> 
> Daniel



Everyone doesn't? (almost everyone I know has a fairly well equipped shop - woodworking, metalworking, fabrication, whatever - and we all do work for one another)


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## precisionworks (Jul 17, 2009)

> You are paying for his time, his shop, his electricity, his tools


+1

If the utility company would waive the $200/month charge, the insurance company would forget about the $167/month premium, etc., I would charge less. 

Now accepting donations for the $4000 roof that needs to be put on:sick2:

(At least that item is deductible)


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## will (Jul 17, 2009)

I think that there are members here ( those that do machine work as a hobby ) that will sometimes do the work for a minimal amount of money. This is done as a way of keeping the hobby going and giving members who don't have all the equipment a means of doing some modifications. 

Once you go to a professional shop, they are in business to make some money, they will charge you the going rate. Some will even set a minimum charge before they do anything.


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## Black Rose (Jul 17, 2009)

BoarHunter said:


> ??? You mentionned a BURR ! 2 by 1 mm is NOT a burr !


It seemed more like a burr until I really got at it. It was definitely a manufacturing defect.

I'm going to see what my father-in-law has for tools this weekend.

If not, the body takes a pair of 16340 cells or a 17670 no problem so it's still usable.


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