# Breakaway neck lanyards



## danpass (Jan 23, 2009)

I'd like to make one using 550 paracord (because I have it).

(I too see the irony in using paracord in a breakaway system lol)


All the ones I've seen break away at the light. I want to make one that breaks away from around the neck though.

I've gone through Lighthounds selections and found THIS so far. Sufficiently strong that it won't just drop off the neck yet won't take you with it lol?


I did a search for 'breakaway' in the title but that didn't answer my question.


thanks.


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## deranged_coder (Jan 23, 2009)

One easy way to fashion your own is to just use a generic cord lock to hold ends of the cord together behind your neck. A strong tug will pull the cord out of the cord lock and cause the cord to break away.

I have also used shrink tubing in a similar fashion but that is not so easy to put back together in the field once the lanyard breaks away.


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## ZMZ67 (Jan 23, 2009)

The break-away connectors on lighthound will work with very little force.They work nicely for an I.D. badge neck lanyard but I prefer a stronger connection for a light or knife.Small lights may work OK but a larger light will probably break-away too easily.
The cord lock ends will require considerable force to break-away,I have to use plyers to snap them shut.


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## deranged_coder (Jan 23, 2009)

ZMZ67 said:


> The cord lock ends will require considerable force to break-away,I have to use plyers to snap them shut.



To clarify, I meant cord locks, not cord lock _ends_. Here is an example of what I mean by using just a cord lock to improvise a break away lanyard:







You can see in the photo that the ends of the cord I am using are held together simply by the cord lock i.e. there is no knot or cord lock end beyond it so that with a firm tug the cord lock will break loose from the ends of the cord.


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## danielo_d (Jan 23, 2009)

Nice idea dan_pass.
And I like your implementation deranged_coder.

I just might try that. And in regards to fastening it back together in the field, I would melt the ends so it would be easier to put back into the cord lock.

Nice going guys!

:wave:


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## saabgoblin (Jan 23, 2009)

danielo_d said:


> Nice idea dan_pass.
> And I like your implementation deranged_coder.
> 
> I just might try that. And in regards to fastening it back together in the field, I would melt the ends so it would be easier to put back into the cord lock.
> ...


Melting the ends will negate the breakaway aspect of this set up IMHO. I use many custom cord locks on my backpacking rig and once the ends are melted, they will not slip through the cord lock but rather get stuck and hang up on whatever body part that the lanyard is around and cord locks are called "locks" for a good reason. Break away lanyards are "Break Away" for a reason, so you don't loose an appendage on machinery or other snags. 

I don't know the force involved to strangle a human or to cut off blood supply to an arm or leg but if you want/need a device to be break away than I would be careful about manipulating the strength of the system. There is probably a Military Spec or Osha standard for breakaway lanyards and searching with those parameters might help you find what you are looking for.

Safety First


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## angelofwar (Jan 23, 2009)

Give SKaccessories a try...there holders are designed for badges, etc, but should be easibly suited to a light...


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## Sgt. LED (Jan 24, 2009)

I've done the paracord thing connected to shrinktube connected to ball-chain trick. Looks good and snaps apart with a good tug. Not field repairable if it gives at the shrinktube instead of the ball chain.

The cord lock is cool, quick and easy.


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## danpass (Jan 24, 2009)

the cord lock setup is good though a bit .......... inelegant lol.


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## danpass (Jan 24, 2009)

angelofwar said:


> Give SKaccessories a try...there holders are designed for badges, etc, but should be easibly suited to a light...


 
the google has failed me


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## angelofwar (Jan 24, 2009)

danpass said:


> the google has failed me


 Lemme pull it out of my gear and get the website for you...


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## depusm12 (Jan 24, 2009)

What about dog tag/ball chain cord covered by hollow paracord with the ends melted to prevent fraying?


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## danpass (Jan 24, 2009)

depusm12 said:


> What about dog tag/ball chain cord covered by hollow paracord with the ends melted to prevent fraying?


 
sounds pretty reasonable. what's the easiest way to thread it?


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## angelofwar (Jan 24, 2009)

EK acessories...duh...here ya go :laughing:

http://store.ekusa.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4


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## Sgt. LED (Jan 24, 2009)

If the break away is used can they be fixed or is it time for a new one?

Mine gets ripped off me at least once a week by some irate patient.


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## angelofwar (Jan 24, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> If the break away is used can they be fixed or is it time for a new one?
> 
> Mine gets ripped off me at least once a week by some irate patient.


 
the EK Acessories lanyards use a thick rubber "collar" and can be re-attahced about 500+ times.


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## Sgt. LED (Jan 24, 2009)

Excellent.


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## sORe-EyEz (Jan 24, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> If the break away is used can they be fixed or is it time for a new one?
> 
> Mine gets ripped off me at least once a week by some irate patient.


 
looks like u you may need a steel cord coated with PVC!

then get some quality stainless steel rigging accessories like quick-releases.


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## Sgt. LED (Jan 24, 2009)

Might be a bit painfull. I dunno


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## depusm12 (Jan 24, 2009)

danpass said:


> sounds pretty reasonable. what's the easiest way to thread it?


 Thread the 550 cord? You remove the inside core heat the ends to stop fraying and slide the chain in. When I was active duty military guys did it all the time on their dog tag chains.


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## sORe-EyEz (Jan 24, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> Might be a bit painfull. I dunno


 
neither do i, but a thicker cord coated with PVC would hurt less i guess?

.................

would do u folks think of 







a smaller 0-ring could be used in conjunction with a quick release clip on the neck cord.


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## deranged_coder (Jan 24, 2009)

danpass said:


> the cord lock setup is good though a bit .......... inelegant lol.



   

Well, I said it _functioned_ as an improvised break away lanyard. I never said it was an... _elegant_... break away lanyard... 

Seriously though, if you have the resources to put together a more elegant solution, go for it. I put my suggestion up there as a quick and dirty way to fashion a functional (but inelegant ) one using easy to come by parts. 

Btw, the cord lock one I fashioned does break away fairly easily. I have a "real" break away lanyard that came with my Streamlight MicroStream and my improvised break away lanyard breaks away just as easy as (if not easier than) the "real" break away lanyard that came with my MicroStream.

Having said that, saabgoblin does have a point. If you have the time and resources to invest in a proper break away lanyard then by all means do so. The "improvised break away lanyard using a cord lock" method is good for the times when you do not have the time or resources easily available and need an improvised solution quick.

Whatever you do, make sure that you test it before you bet your life on it.


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## Bogie (Jan 24, 2009)

I have always used a piece of heat shrink tube to hold the ends of 550 together.


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## ZMZ67 (Jan 24, 2009)

deranged_coder said:


> To clarify, I meant cord locks, not cord lock _ends_. Here is an example of what I mean by using just a cord lock to improvise a break away lanyard:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Thanks for the clarification.That is a nice idea especially if you need a quick improvised solution.I think you could still melt the ends of the cord if you are carefull to make sure they don't form a "burr".


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## TITAN1833 (Jan 24, 2009)

My contribution not the best and maybe not worthy,but it works for me


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## danpass (Jan 24, 2009)

depusm12 said:


> Thread the 550 cord? You remove the inside core heat the ends to stop fraying and slide the chain in. When I was active duty military guys did it all the time on their dog tag chains.


 
ok, so its nothing involved then. the chain is small enough to simply 'drop' thru to the other side.


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## depusm12 (Jan 24, 2009)

danpass said:


> ok, so its nothing involved then. the chain is small enough to simply 'drop' thru to the other side.



Yeah the chain should fit no problem.


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## danpass (Jan 24, 2009)

I'm trying the chain for now (Home Depot electrical section for the chain, the 'ceiling light pull chains'). This one is the 3ft chain with ~4in cut off.


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## depusm12 (Jan 24, 2009)

Looks right to me.


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## Sgt. LED (Jan 25, 2009)

Looks good! I like the McGizmo clip touch.


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## danpass (Jan 25, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> Looks good! I like the McGizmo clip touch.


 
thanks 

its the 25MM CLIP for those who are curious.


.


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## Sgt. LED (Jan 25, 2009)

Hey I have one of those! Might have to put it to use.  Good thinking.


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## phoneguy (Jan 25, 2009)

Do a Google search for magnetic clasp

I think this would be very safe and no need for repairs in the field.


Bryan


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## JNewell (Jan 25, 2009)

I have a Benchmade Activator neck knife (210TK, I think, but don't quote me) that came with a pair of neck lanyards that look more or less like a shoelace (two dressed ends) with a short piece of clear flexible plastic tube to connect them. Would work fine for the knife and would break away very easily. I like the looks of the Lighthound part, too, though.


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## Apollo Cree (Jan 24, 2010)

If it's something where good looks aren't that important or you can hide it, I've used a heavy rubber band to tie the two ends of a commercial breakaway connector. If I snag it and open it, it doesn't come off completely unless I pull hard and long and break the rubber band. The commercial breakaway connector seems to disconnect far too often. 

You could probably simply use a rubber band as a breakaway connector. Or just overlap the ends and wrap the rubber band around the ends a bunch of times.

You should probably plan on replacing the rubber band occasionally.


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## TooManyGizmos (Jan 25, 2010)

> I've gone through Lighthounds selections and found THIS so far. Sufficiently strong that it won't just drop off the neck yet won't take you with it lol?



The Break-aways from LightHound Linked to in the Opening Post ... work VERY well ... and that's what I've used for years.

Configuring them to breakaway behind the neck is a good idea and prevents you from being slapped in the face or EYE by the end when it comes apart. I make all mine to break behind the neck . Easily reconnected in the field too .

Always use break-aways !
.


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## asfaltpiloot (Jan 25, 2010)

Surefire uses two cord locks and a cord fastener.
http://www.surefire.com/Z50-Lanyard-System


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## Lightcrazycanuck (Jan 25, 2010)

TooManyGizmos said:


> The Break-aways from LightHound Linked to in the Opening Post ... work VERY well ... and that's what I've used for years.
> 
> Configuring them to breakaway behind the neck is a good idea and prevents you from being slapped in the face or EYE by the end when it comes apart. I make all mine to break behind the neck . Easily reconnected in the field too .
> 
> ...


 
+1:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## gallonoffuel (Jan 25, 2010)

I made an ID holder for work with the Lighthound breakaways and I will say that they might not break away if in an emergency situation. Mine have all been VERY hard to pull apart unless you pull them directly away from each other, ie: I have to reach behind my neck and pull each side apart. If I got my ID stuck in something, I don't trust they would come apart on their own.


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## firefighter1241 (Jan 25, 2010)

When I worked as concert security when I was in school I used this brand.

http://store.ekusa.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4_27&sort=20a&page=1


I had a drunk female try and fight me because I was kicking out her boyfirend and she grabbed my Id thinking she would get control of me but was very surprised that it came off. I rember her looking at her hand and only having my ID and Lanyard in her hand and not my neck. I had my hands full trying to kick out the fighting drunk boyfriend but the lanyard worked like a charm. Other security grabbed the girlfriend and my lanyard back and they got a free trip to jail for assault.


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## Petersen (Jan 26, 2010)

deranged_coder said:


> To clarify, I meant cord locks, not cord lock _ends_. Here is an example of what I mean by using just a cord lock to improvise a break away lanyard:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
This looks like the older SureFire lanyards - at least the ones that came with my C3 and M6


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## gallonoffuel (Jan 26, 2010)

firefighter1241 said:


> When I worked as concert security when I was in school I used this brand.
> 
> http://store.ekusa.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4_27&sort=20a&page=1
> 
> ...



VERY interesting. I had originally used a Blackhawk C.I.A. lanyard for my ID purposes. Those look EXACTLY the same. Furthering my theory that Blackhawk makes nothing themselves, and just stamps their name on other readily available products. The only exception would be their SERPA holsters, but thats for another forum.


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## Theatre Booth Guy (Jan 28, 2010)

TITAN1833 said:


> My contribution not the best and maybe not worthy,but it works for me



Nice - looks like magnets on the ends of the cord halves? If so, how did you attach the tiny magnets??


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## qarawol (Jan 29, 2010)

I too needed a breakaway neck lanyard for safety reasons at work. I like leather and never could find one that fit my needs so I had to make one up myself.














Using 2 small snaps is what keeps the two lengths of leather together. Excess pull of about 25 pounds will auto unsnap the snaps and the complete lanyard falls free from my neck.

The Flashlight, keys, key holder clip, and ID holder all can be removed and changed as needed on the fly. The removable key holder is a nice touch for there are times I don't need to use this lanyard so the key clip with keys are removed in one motion and on to the belt it goes.


Njoy...


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## kaichu dento (Jan 29, 2010)

TITAN1833 said:


> My contribution not the best and maybe not worthy,but it works for me





Theatre Booth Guy said:


> Nice - looks like magnets on the ends of the cord halves? If so, how did you attach the tiny magnets??


I really like this approach too. C'mon Titan, how'd you attach the magnets?


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## ragweed (Jan 30, 2010)

I have been using the Lighthound ones for awhile now. They do not break away easily but, do break before your neck does. I would recommend them any day for a single flashlight for EDC use. The EK ones will hold more weight as in: ID card, keys, light, pen, & procedure booklet.


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## ZMZ67 (Jan 31, 2010)

TooManyGizmos said:


> The Break-aways from LightHound Linked to in the Opening Post ... work VERY well ... and that's what I've used for years.
> 
> Configuring them to breakaway behind the neck is a good idea and prevents you from being slapped in the face or EYE by the end when it comes apart. I make all mine to break behind the neck . Easily reconnected in the field too .
> 
> ...


 
+2 I use the same break-away on my badge holder neck lanyard and center it behind the neck.There are two break away possibilities with this type.Even if the break-away connection doesn't work the cord will still come out of the holes fairly easily as it is only the melted part that holds it in.I have a number of these break-aways and the force it takes to make them work seems to vary so if you are in doubt order several and pick the one that best fits your needs.As I posted previously I don't believe these really require that much force and may not be suitable for heavier items or more rigorous activities.Good choice for neck lanyards as you want them to break away without a lot of force.


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## Sub_Umbra (Jan 31, 2010)

Commercial solutions generally fail on two counts: lack of documentation and questionable quality control. The ads rarely state the release weight and if they did one would *still* have to trust their quality control once it was ascertained that the separation force of the product was appropriate.

Assuming that the breakaway device may involve life or death situations the failings noted above would dictate not only initial testing but *also* testing on a continuing basis since it cannot be assumed that their performance will remain static over time.

This is a complicated issue.

If the lanyard is for the neck the simplest, safest, most consistent performer over the long haul is probably the shortest workable length of *stainless steel bead chain. * It is cheap and will provide a very high level of safety over an extended period of time without all of the testing *on the user's part* demanded by other schemes to attain the same safety and reliability. The SS is also unaffected by prolonged exposure to UV or chemical vapors which are a factor in some environs.


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## ZMZ67 (Feb 1, 2010)

Sub_Umbra said:


> Commercial solutions generally fail on two counts: lack of documentation and questionable quality control. The ads rarely state the release weight and if they did one would *still* have to trust their quality control once it was ascertained that the separation force of the product was appropriate.
> 
> Assuming that the breakaway device may involve life or death situations the failings noted above would dictate not only initial testing but *also* testing on a continuing basis since it cannot be assumed that their performance will remain static over time.
> 
> ...


 
Actually I have a night vision green Photon Freedom on a stainless steel bead chain.Must have picked that idea up from somebody on this forum................The reason I like the Lighthound break-aways is that I can physically yank the lanyard and it breaks away.I agree that anyone using a break-away connection or lanyard should *test *it according to how it will be used.For my needs the Lighthound break-aways work well but they may not be suitable in a more critcal environment.


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