# Surefire C2 centurion...pros...cons...mods?



## Ninjaz7 (Apr 23, 2008)

Just got a good deal on a surefire c2 centurion,read up a little about the lens,tactical purposes,etc....why is the head sought after by modders?Whats the advantages,disadvantages?Why is the retail much higher than the 6p?I appreciate any answers,comments on this unit.I've ran thru alot of g**gle info,just not great answers.thanks


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## TooSharp (Apr 23, 2008)

It's my favorite 60 style surefire model. I'm on my second one. I gave the first with a BOG dropin to my BIL deployed in Iraq. I think the clip, HA, and tactical grip make it better than the 6P. I don't know why modders crave it. I believe it has the same head as the 6P.


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## Ninjaz7 (Apr 23, 2008)

I don't have it in hand yet but I believe the head is bigger than a 6p,and the lens is supposedly tougher...I see a few modders looking for c2 heads,I'm curious why:thinking:...Thanks for the input...God bless our buddys over there.


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## Crenshaw (Apr 23, 2008)

the C2 is basically the touhgest p60 based light you can find, with grip ring, and HAIII,clip, almost failproof switch. Theres no way you can love it. I have wanted one for about 2 years, but only recently got one.

Crenshaw


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## pinepig2 (Apr 23, 2008)

The rubber ring doesn't offer as much purchase area as on the Z2, so it's not quite as ergonomic to hold when using the heel of the hand to depress the switch. The lens is the same. It's also heavier than the Z2. The clip served no purpose for me - I removed it.

Despite these cons, I bought one for the HA. Unfortuneately, the light was far too tight in a V70 holster (SF lists it as the correct holster) which precluded me from using it at the time. I had to turn around and sell it for a loss. Now Blackhawk has a good duty holster that will work, so I may consider another C2. However, I'd much rather see Surefire offer the Z2 in HA.


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## Drummer (Apr 23, 2008)

That's odd, I've never seen a C2 NOT work in a V70. I personally use that setup and have not had any problems.


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## umc (Apr 23, 2008)

Oh how I love the C2. It was my first Surefire and after EDCing a few others I have gone back to the C2. I currently own two C2s in Glossy black and just ordered a HAIII today which will be the new EDC along with a Z48 tail cap and Malkoff M60. I absolutely love that combo as it's durable, bright as all get out and the tail cap, well, I'm a clicky fan, plus I like the guard on the Z48 so I don't have to worry about it turning on in my pocket, plus you can tail stand it. The Clip is great too for my setup as it rides in a side jean pocket or can go on a belt, no holster necessary.

There are a ton of P60 drop ins like the Malkoff M60 so you can setup this light just for you whether you want ultimate output and throw or something that is bright but will also run for a long time, options galore...


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## pinepig2 (Apr 23, 2008)

Drummer said:


> That's odd, I've never seen a C2 NOT work in a V70. I personally use that setup and have not had any problems.



Maybe this has since been adressed (bought my C2 in 2002 or so), or I just had a C2 with extra-thick HA - don't know. It took two hands to get the light out of the holster when carried bezel up. If it's no longer a problem, that's encouraging.


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## const451 (Apr 23, 2008)

I have C2 and C3 and I love them both. There are the only hard-anodized lights (there is also M2 but it is not pocketable even it's two batteries) that are P60-style lights, meaning you can always upgrade them. Also they provide an excellent grip.


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## KeyGrip (Apr 23, 2008)

pinepig2 said:


> If it's no longer a problem, that's encouraging.



Did you try a few different holsters? The first one might have just been crappy.


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## Flashlike (Apr 23, 2008)

I really appreciate the "ruggedness" of the Surefire C2. And the combat style switch with the rubber grip ring works great. 
I installed a Dereelight 1SM-2(1-stage multi power 3-16V input range) Cree XR-E Q5 module with OP reflector in mine powered by (2) RCR123 rechargeable batteries and WOW it has a VERY clean and powerful beam with pure white tint. 
Dereelight has other drop-in modules that you might want to take a look at, too. Or as others have mentioned there are several other brands of drop-ins that offer excellent performance. 
Enjoy your C2! It is a great light in its stock format, but can also be customized to your liking if you so desire.


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## Bullzeyebill (Apr 23, 2008)

pinepig2 said:


> The rubber ring doesn't offer as much purchase area as on the Z2, so it's not quite as ergonomic to hold when using the heel of the hand to depress the switch. The lens is the same. It's also heavier than the Z2. The clip served no purpose for me - I removed it.
> 
> Despite these cons, I bought one for the HA. Unfortuneately, the light was far too tight in a V70 holster (SF lists it as the correct holster) which precluded me from using it at the time. I had to turn around and sell it for a loss. Now Blackhawk has a good duty holster that will work, so I may consider another C2. However, I'd much rather see Surefire offer the Z2 in HA.



I have had similiar problems with type III HA and pulling from V70. The type III is not as slippery as type II and is more difficult to withdraw from the V70. My V70 works ok now, maybe because I broke it in. I did lube the lower metal contact piece and that helped.

Bill


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## greenLED (Apr 24, 2008)

The C2 is one of the sexiest SF's out there. Like Crenshaw I've been wanting one for quite a while now. 

Now that they have the P60L's I may actually jump on one. One of these days...


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## ampdude (Apr 24, 2008)

pinepig2 said:


> The rubber ring doesn't offer as much purchase area as on the Z2, so it's not quite as ergonomic to hold when using the heel of the hand to depress the switch. The lens is the same. It's also heavier than the Z2. The clip served no purpose for me - I removed it.
> 
> Despite these cons, I bought one for the HA. Unfortuneately, the light was far too tight in a V70 holster (SF lists it as the correct holster) which precluded me from using it at the time. I had to turn around and sell it for a loss. Now Blackhawk has a good duty holster that will work, so I may consider another C2. However, I'd much rather see Surefire offer the Z2 in HA.




I would love a Z2 in HA also. I finally found a place that has a holster that fits my C2. The seller is called Planet Holster on ebay. It ran me about $16 I think. I'll have to look into the Blackhawk one, sounds interesting.


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## Crenshaw (Apr 24, 2008)

hey greenLED, ampdude is selling a mint C2 at bst....:devil:

Crenshaw


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## JNewell (Apr 24, 2008)

I bought one (an early 3-flat version) to replace a 6Z but didn't like the clip, the square grip section or the change in the rubber rings and went back to the 6Z. For me, great light, no mission. YMMV. BTW/FWIW, I see that they are now being made with only two flats, which would make the grip section even less suitable to me.


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## umc (Apr 24, 2008)

Comptac makes holsters for the C2 and other Surefire lights, I have one for my C2 and liked it a lot when I carried the light that way. Just another option for ya.


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## houtex (Apr 24, 2008)

Comp-Tac makes the BEST holsters IMO( I own 2),but if you're worried about the look of your lights Kydex will leave scratches on the light.


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## Greg_Jones (Apr 24, 2008)

I've been very pleased with my Comp-Tac light holsters also. I expect that the kydex could/would scratch a Type II finish, but I've not seen even a rub mark from kydex on my Type III hard anodize A2 and E2E.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Apr 24, 2008)

Crenshaw said:


> the C2 is basically the touhgest p60 based light you can find, with grip ring, and HAIII,clip, almost failproof switch. Theres no way you can love it. I have wanted one for about 2 years, but only recently got one.
> 
> Crenshaw


Only the M2 is tougher.


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## greenstuffs (Apr 24, 2008)

I would favor the C2, i really like that light.


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## ampdude (Apr 24, 2008)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> Only the M2 is tougher.



The shock isolated bezel is nice, but I believe unnecessary under most conditions. I tend to avoid them in all but weapon light applications since the bezel's are larger and the shock isolation tends to block some of the flood output. If the light was dropped hard on its side while running, I believe there's a good chance it will go *poof* shock isolated bezel or not.


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## Crenshaw (Apr 24, 2008)

how is the M2 tougher? 

it might actually be worse for LEDS, because the shock isolation system would also insulate the LED module from the rest of the metal head....

Crenshaw


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## cfromc (Apr 25, 2008)

Shock Iso for incans and Z44 for LEDs. Makes sense to me. I have an MC3 (C3 with M2 head) for my P90/P91 and 6Ps w/the Z44-BK for my LEDs. The LEDs need less shock resistance due to their design, yet they need good heat sinking, especially at the higher output levels. The incans can use the additional shock isolation, especially when they are lit.

Someone mentioned earlier that the C2 head is larger than the 6P head. I do not believe this to be the case unless we are talking thousandths of an inch due to the different coating. Otherwise they are basically the same head, one with Type II and one with HAIII, although the early 6P and Z2 heads had Lexan (poly) windows and the new ones have Pyrex. I have some early versions with the Lexan windows and without the retaining ring and the beam is excellent because it is a nice smooth and perfectly round beam, although I would only use it for LEDs because I've heard the P61 can deform the window if run for extended time periods. I also have a couple each of the 6P head with retaining ring and Pyrex and a couple of the 6PL heads. If you want to be really anal (as I sometimes am) then each different version will serve a unique and "ideal" purpose.


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## greenstuffs (Apr 25, 2008)

Crenshaw said:


> how is the M2 tougher?
> 
> it might actually be worse for LEDS, because the shock isolation system would also insulate the LED module from the rest of the metal head....
> 
> Crenshaw



Not everyone needs LED's and believe it or not incan is still very useful and still widely used.


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## cfromc (Apr 25, 2008)

greenstuffs said:


> Not everyone needs LED's and believe it or not incan is still very useful and still widely used.


 
Of course, you are correct, however I see a point in my lifetime when incans are more of a specialty and/or mission-specific item. Especially with the output advances of the LEDs and other light sources. I personally have converted most of my lights over and just have a few incans like my ROP, M3T, M3, 6P w/L32, and my previously-mentioned MC3 (and about a half-dozen junk lights that I haven't gotten rid of yet). These lights have specific uses, i.e. very bright, far thrower, or weapon light. For general all-around use and emergency usage I find the LEDs have advantages, particularly in regards to run-time and shock resistance. And LEDs will be finding their way to tactical usage more and more since the new ones are getting pretty bright (plus the aforementioned shock resistance). 

On a somewhat side-note I have converted most of the lightbulbs in my house to CFL's and have enjoyed much the same benefits as the LEDs in my flashlights i.e. lower operating expense and much longer life expectancy. The trade-off is a slightly different color temp and longer warm-up time. However, some of the newer CFLs come on instantly and have a warmer temp, so basically no drawback other than the initial cost, which is recuperated relatively quickly and several times over throughout the life of the bulb.


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## Illum (Apr 25, 2008)

Crenshaw said:


> the C2 is basically the touhgest p60 based light you can find, with grip ring, and HAIII,clip, almost failproof switch. Theres no way you can love it.



I thought it was the M2 that owns the title of being the toughest

whats not to love?:thinking:


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## greenstuffs (Apr 25, 2008)

Illum_the_nation said:


> whats not to love?:thinking:



Probably didn't proof read it. Notice other spelling errors. He probably meant not to not love it, typical chinese expression and a direct translation.


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## bagman (Apr 25, 2008)

I've been using a clipless C2 in a V70 as my duty belt light for a couple of months now and it is a superb light. 

I really like the grip on it, although I only changed from a Z2 for the HA
It has 2 x AW's R123A's running a M60 drop in and a Z58 switch. The V70 sure beays the living daylights out of the HA on the switch though. Mine had previously been on a Leaf 18650 body in the same holster and it now mostly a silver colour


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## Monocrom (Apr 26, 2008)

pinepig2 said:


> The rubber ring doesn't offer as much purchase area as on the Z2, so it's not quite as ergonomic to hold when using the heel of the hand to depress the switch. The lens is the same. It's also heavier than the Z2. The clip served no purpose for me - I removed it.


 
My experience with the grip-ring on the C2 is the exact opposite. I found the grip-ring on the Z2 to be too soft and thin. The thicker, harder grip-ring on the C2 makes it more useful. The clip is one of the best designed that I've found on any light. And I own various clip-carried lights.


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## Drummer (Apr 26, 2008)

pinepig2 said:


> Maybe this has since been adressed (bought my C2 in 2002 or so), or I just had a C2 with extra-thick HA - don't know. It took two hands to get the light out of the holster when carried bezel up. If it's no longer a problem, that's encouraging.



Surefire may have fixed the problem, I don't know. I began using the C2 as a duty light in 2005, so it very well could have been fixed by then. FWIW, the C2 and V70 is standard issue for my employer and I have not heard of any problems with the HA and black models.


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## bagman (Apr 27, 2008)

Drummer said:


> Surefire may have fixed the problem, I don't know. I began using the C2 as a duty light in 2005, so it very well could have been fixed by then. FWIW, the C2 and V70 is standard issue for my employer and I have not heard of any problems with the HA and black models.



I tried a brand new HAIII LOTC on my C2 in a V70 a week or so ago and it was quite difficult to get out. As I posted before the clickie that sits on it normally is more of a silver colour where the V70 has worn away the HAIII and made the knurling smoother.


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## Midnight Oil (Sep 20, 2010)

Just received my first HA C2 today. I had had high expectations for the quality of this light after reading so many compliments about it on this forum.

First impressions:

The clip is skewed to one side.
There are scratches near the end of the tailcap.
There are visible nicks on the bevels of the tailend threads.

Given the price of this light, is it too much to ask not to have these issues?

The clip is sturdy and is not easily removed. It didn't budge at all the last time I tried to remove it. I will leave it on because it is useful.

Lots of material has been taken off to form the flats. Using the flat below the clip as the "top" flat for reference, if you center the SF 123 cell on the bottom flat, you can see approximately how much wall thickness is left in the body---not much at all.

Why aren't the edges of the bottom flat rounded off like those of the top flat? Wouldn't that have been better for aesthetics and made the body stronger as well, not to mention more comfortable on the fingers.

I simply cannot activate the light using the Roger's technique hold. It is what this light is designed for right? It seems the momentary switch is not sensitive enough, but needs direct pressure, right in the middle, from the pad of the thumb.

All comments welcome.

Thanks.


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## Bullzeyebill (Sep 20, 2010)

Midnight Oil, I just pulled mine out that I have had for a couple of years, and there are no dings on it. I would send it back with complaints. Brand new from SF, or a dealer? My clip can be moved somewhat left and right, but otherwise is solid. To remove, pull off the O ring, and do not lose the little plastic part. You must have noticed the raves here on this thread, so I think you got a lemon.

Bill


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## Midnight Oil (Sep 20, 2010)

Bullzeyebill said:


> Midnight Oil, I just pulled mine out that I have had for a couple of years, and there are no dings on it. I would send it back with complaints. Brand new from SF, or a dealer? My clip can be moved somewhat left and right, but otherwise is solid. To remove, pull off the O ring, and do not lose the little plastic part. You must have noticed the raves here on this thread, so I think you got a lemon.
> 
> Bill


 
Hi, Bill. I purchased it from a fellow member over at MP. He is reputable and a lot of people of purchased SF products from him.

I'll take some pics and you and others can tell me if I exaggerated. Thanks.


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## recDNA (Sep 20, 2010)

I just got a new gray HA C2. I love the square body but I hate the clip. I can't get it out of my jeans when clipped inside the pocket and it feels uncomfortable in my hand so I keep rotating the body trying to get it right.

Can the clip be removed but then reinstalled if I sell it?


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## Bullzeyebill (Sep 20, 2010)

Midnight Oil said:


> Hi, Bill. I purchased it from a fellow member over at MP. He is reputable and a lot of people of purchased SF products from him.
> 
> I'll take some pics and you and others can tell me if I exaggerated. Thanks.



Then deal with him. I am not thinking that you are exaggerating. Your seller is responsible for the condition of the flashlight, not SF. Is he a bonafide SF retailer? Will SF honor your purchase from him? I do not know the name of the seller on MP that you worked with.

Bill


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## TMedina (Sep 20, 2010)

Which also raises the question - was the light billed as New In Box (NIB)? Or previously open and used?

I'm not a big fan of the clip, but I never trusted it for practical use anyway.

You can remove the clip and replace it when or if you want to sell it - it really doesn't matter in the grand scheme of resell value because the clip removal doesn't damage the light.

Midnight - I've never had any problems with my NIB Surefires. It may be the C2 you have has been altered or adjusted. But a stiff tailcap isn't unheard of, but is still fairly rare.

My Z2 is a little stiff; my very new G2L is smooth as a baby's bottom - it was a chance to take both out and grope them. :huh:

-Trevor


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## Midnight Oil (Sep 20, 2010)

Here is the skewed clip:







Scratch 01, it's not deep, but is that bare aluminum I see?






And scratch 02






None of my pics of the tailend threads can show the little nicks, but my fingernail can snag on them.

T,

It was advertised as "sealed," and the seller assured me it was NIB. He sent it to me without the packaging to save weight, but he did include the registration card.

If the imperfections are actually not something to scoff at, I still give the benefit of the doubt to the seller. Either he missed it or SF let one get away.


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## Midnight Oil (Sep 20, 2010)

Bullzeyebill said:


> Then deal with him. I am not thinking that you are exaggerating. Your seller is responsible for the condition of the flashlight, not SF. Is he a bonafide SF retailer? Will SF honor your purchase from him? I do not know the name of the seller on MP that you worked with.
> 
> Bill



Bill,

My "exaggeration" comment was actually a humble request. I hope it wasn't read any other way.

No, the seller is not an authorized dealer. I've uploaded the pics. Feel free to tell me just take a deep breath and call it good, or I need to get my money's worth.

Thanks again.


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## SiliconCali (Sep 21, 2010)

I love the C2. It's one of my favorite SureFires.

The scratches would tick me off. The clip however may be a common problem since my C2 has the same cant to it. It is so long, and the contact point is so small, it seems it can't help but shift around.

I would deal with the seller to see if you can get satisfaction. I have bought a ton of stuff on the MP but never anything from him. The fact he doesn't seem to want to send any packaging for NIB gear always struck me as odd.


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## Midnight Oil (Sep 21, 2010)

Aha! They do exist! I'm not the only one.

A fellow San Franciscan you are, SiliconCali. The only other I know here is SparkSS.

I sometimes shine my lights out the window, hoping a fellow flashaholic will respond in kind, but nothing yet.

It's kinda like trying to make contact with aliens. In certain parts, we are just that rare, assuming we exist at all.

BTW, you know who I bought it from?


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## ElectronGuru (Sep 21, 2010)

Midnight Oil said:


> BTW, you know who I bought it from?



Like all post histories, CPFM transactions are a matter of record. The key is knowing one of the names. Yours is here.


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## SiliconCali (Sep 21, 2010)

Midnight Oil said:


> A fellow San Franciscan you are, SiliconCali. The only other I know here is SparkSS.
> 
> I sometimes shine my lights out the window, hoping a fellow flashaholic will respond in kind, but nothing yet.



Hehe was that you?  I thought I was the only one shining my lights out the window.

I have my distances marked off via Google Earth so when ever I get a new light I shine my neighbors buildings. If you see it then it may be me. 



> BTW, you know who I bought it from?


ElectronGuru beat me to it. That link will get you to the seller.

Good to meet you Midnight Oil and best of luck getting this resolved.


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## TMedina (Sep 21, 2010)

Ya know, I'm not sure how the couple ounces of plastic clamshell and cardboard really save all that much weight, but ok.

The problem becomes, once the light is removed from the clamshell, it's subject to scratches and character marks like that.

I have yet to receive a brand new, NIB light, one that I removed from the packaging personally, have scratches like that. I am more than willing to bet it isn't a SF issue so much as the re-seller.

As for the skewing, a certain amount is to be expected based on the design - but if I'm right about your light having been bumped a bit prior to you receiving it, that might explain the tilt as well.

I have a C2 and a C3 - great lights, both of them. I don't know the seller, but even if you can't get satisfaction, the C2 is a great and robust light. 

And if you plan on using it roughly, you can call the other scratches "character." :thumbsup:

-Trevor


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## Midnight Oil (Sep 21, 2010)

Thanks, Trevor.

Based on its reputation, one should think it can handle mere handling during preparation for shipping, but guess not. Life is never perfect, and I should not spoil myself by thinking that any amount of money can purchase near perfection in anything. Water under the bridge. I'll keep it.

Thanks everyone.

SiliconCali,

I'll keep an eye out for your bat signal, but I think either one of us will need to have the SR90 or 91 in order to be seen by the other.


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## nbp (Sep 21, 2010)

Are you sure you can't rub those scratches out? The pics make it look more like metal transfer than actual scratches but I'm not holding it. They don't look deep at all. 

Personally I wouldn't worry about it. I wish my C2 was all beat up since those lights look so cool but I can't bring myself to do it. I buy Surefires and HDSs etc because of their reputation for being bombproof but then I baby my lights and they never actually get abused. What a wuss. :shakehead


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## angelofwar (Sep 21, 2010)

Yeah, most of my C2's came with skewed clip...once you break them in though, it becomes unoticeable. You can proably adjust it by messing with the positioning of the p[lastic tab that keeps the pressure on the clip. I just never bothered, cause the skewed clip doesn't really bother me.


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## Midnight Oil (Sep 21, 2010)

nbp, I'm afraid not. The HA there actually looks very very thin.

Angelofwar, yeah, I'm leaving the clip alone. Don't want to break the plastic, now that you mention it.

Thanks


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## Toohotruk (Sep 21, 2010)

I bought one from him a few weeks ago, and it was perfect as far as I could see. There was one extremely tiny spot in the knurling on the tailcap with bare aluminum, that you can only see when the light hits it just perfect, and you're really looking for it...I mean this spot is the size of a pin prick. and to be fair, I didn't notice it for a couple of weeks, and most likely put it there myself. And it doesn't bother me...I expect this light to get beat up over the years, that's why I bought it.

On "Scratch 1" it could be where something else metal came in contact with your C2, and it's actually metal that scraped off the _other _object, and it could be possible to polish it off of the anodizing. I've seen this happen with a few of my lights with type III anodizing. 

The other scratch, looks like just that, a scratch...and if these flaws really do bother you, you should talk to the guy you bought it from. He seems like a great guy to me.

Back on topic...I really like my C2 for many reasons...the anodizing looks incredible, I like the feel of it in my hand, it's pretty much bulletproof (although I would recommend installing an aftermarket stainless bezel ring...the edges of Z44 heads will dent if dropped on hard surfaces.), and I pretty much know I'll have this thing the rest of my life, unless I lose it. Add the myriad of lego and performance drop-in options, and you've got a winner! :thumbsup:


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## Toohotruk (Sep 21, 2010)

Looks like I was beat out with most of my post while I was writing it!


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## Monocrom (Sep 21, 2010)

(I hate electronic items.) 

Original post got eaten. Most important point of it was . . . Contact the CPFer who sold you the C2. See if he's willing to do anything for you. 

If a light is advertised as "sealed," it should be mailed out that way.


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## Midnight Oil (Sep 21, 2010)

May be I shouldn't set a precedent, because then he might eventually go out of business if everyone did what I want to do.  Live and learn I guess, I'll learn to live with this.

Thanks for the suggestions though. 

I'll try buffing out the "scratches" with an eraser.

BTW, regarding color matching. The body appears to be olive while the head and tailcap appear to be grey. I've not read anything about this particular combination before. :shrug:


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## prime77 (Sep 21, 2010)

I had a C2L waiting for me in the mail when I got home from work lastnight. Man why did I wait so long to get this light. It feels great in the hand. Really nice pocket clip. SFs great tough annodizing. I know the p60l is an underperformer but I have always liked the beam from it. I got a really good tint in this unit also. I may just keep it in there for a awhile. Overall I am very happy with my new light.


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## recDNA (Sep 21, 2010)

After reading this I'm a little nervous about removing the clip because it is currently perfectly straight despite constantly getting yanked HARD to get it out of my jeans. The clip just doesn't want to let go. I mean I know you don't want it to come out TOO easily but it's just a matter of time before I rip my pants. 

Several posters have mentioned the clip CAN be removed.

Can someone direct me to step by step instructions for removing and reinstalling the clip? 

I don't want to just try to bang away on it and get it all scratched up and I may well wish to reinstall the clip if I sell it. (leaning that way at the moment) 

Despite one poster's opinion (no offense just forget name) I don't believe I would get as much $ for a C2 with no clip or even a detached clip. I for one wouldn't buy one that way without a MAJOR discount.

I


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## Eric242 (Sep 21, 2010)

recDNA said:


> Can the clip be removed but then reinstalled if I sell it?



Yes it can, quite easily actually. First remove the head from the light, then the o-ring. Just take a string of paracord or something similar, put it under the clip and pull slowly but firm towards the threads. It should come off easy. Best thing would be to have a towell or something like that over the light when you pull the clip off to prevent the little pastic part from getting away. You´ll have to keeep it with the clip since it´s not going to hold without the plastic part. 

Eric


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## JNewell (Sep 21, 2010)

Bullzeyebill said:


> Then deal with him. I am not thinking that you are exaggerating. Your seller is responsible for the condition of the flashlight, not SF. Is he a bonafide SF retailer? Will SF honor your purchase from him? I do not know the name of the seller on MP that you worked with.
> 
> Bill



And, did he sell it as "new," "like new," or some other used condition?

Edit...went to the original post...no comment.


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## recDNA (Sep 21, 2010)

Eric242 said:


> Yes it can, quite easily actually. First remove the head from the light, then the o-ring. Just take a string of paracord or something similar, put it under the clip and pull slowly but firm towards the threads. It should come off easy. Best thing would be to have a towell or something like that over the light when you pull the clip off to prevent the little pastic part from getting away. You´ll have to keeep it with the clip since it´s not going to hold without the plastic part.
> 
> Eric


 

And how to I put it back?


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## Sardaukar (Sep 21, 2010)

I love my C2s. One is running a P61 and the other an M61.


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## 1301 (Sep 22, 2010)

regarding the clip: I use the clip of a Jetbeam Jet-III M.
It offers bezel up and bezel down carry and isn't as bulky as the original one.

Jet-III clip -> fits the Surefire C2 and the Jet-III after some minor filing (it works for me but the clip is a bit loose on both lights. To stop them beeing a bit loose you have to make an improvised version of the black plastic part from the surefire to make them.

Surefire C2 clip -> fits the Jet-III after some minor filing perfectly and still fits the C2 perfectly.

I only modified the clips, the flashlights itself weren't changed. So if you skrew a clip, just get a new one (but it's hard to fail in such an easy mod  )

[disclaimer: 
at least that's how it worked for me, I can't garantuee it will work with your Surefire and Jetbeam but I think so.]

If I have some time later I'll try to take some pictures and upload them.


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## Jimed315 (Sep 22, 2010)

I also have a C2 with surface scratches just like yours,after reading the post about the eraser trick I thought I would give it a try,didn't work!
So I looked at the lead end of the pencil and thought I would give it a try,
And it worked like a champ! I rubbed the lead over the scratch,then rubbed the excess lead off with my finger and I was surprised the with the results, just very barley noticeable!
I know it may not last but it is very,very easy to color over again.


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## Midnight Oil (Sep 23, 2010)

Jimed315 said:


> I also have a C2 with surface scratches just like yours,after reading the post about the eraser trick I thought I would give it a try,didn't work!
> So I looked at the lead end of the pencil and thought I would give it a try,
> And it worked like a champ! I rubbed the lead over the scratch,then rubbed the excess lead off with my finger and I was surprised the with the results, just very barley noticeable!
> I know it may not last but it is very,very easy to color over again.



Sorry about that. The eraser was a wild guess. Glad to hear that you've found a solution, albeit a temporary one.


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## Cesiumsponge (Sep 23, 2010)

Email Surefire and they'll send you a clip and plastic retaining tab for free as it's part of their well-known customer service support. I emailed them when I was worried about some wiggly play in my clip and they sent me a replacement ASAP.

Pro AND con
Pro: you'll want to mod it
Con: you'll want another one to keep stock


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## Eric242 (Sep 23, 2010)

recDNA said:


> And how to I put it back?


Well, you just put it back, it´s that simple. First the clip and then the plastic part. You´ll have to use a screwdriver for example to push the plastic part all the way back.

Eric


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## Pegsmi98 (Sep 23, 2010)

I just received my C2 yesterday. This thing is a tank, it is awesome. I think I will be putting in the Malkoff 260 Lumen drop in when I get some cash. 

A friend has the 1000 lumen drop in and although very cool i couldnt validate 20 minute run time on recharges.


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## Midnight Oil (Sep 23, 2010)

Well, I sent an email to SF CS in which I mentioned the nicks on the tailend threads and the difference in the color of the HA finish.

I've received a polite response explaining that "damaged threads are not covered under the warranty," and, regarding the HA finish, something to the effect of "that's just the way it is."

So the lesson for me is, think thrice about not purchasing retail from an authorized dealer, becauce the SF warranty, which might differ depending on which SFSR you're communicating with, might not always be generous.


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## recDNA (Sep 23, 2010)

Pegsmi98 said:


> I just received my C2 yesterday. This thing is a tank, it is awesome. I think I will be putting in the Malkoff 260 Lumen drop in when I get some cash.
> 
> A friend has the 1000 lumen drop in and although very cool i couldnt validate 20 minute run time on recharges.



I just ordered the thrunite 1.5 amp r5 for mine.


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## recDNA (Sep 23, 2010)

Eric242 said:


> Well, you just put it back, it´s that simple. First the clip and then the plastic part. You´ll have to use a screwdriver for example to push the plastic part all the way back.
> 
> Eric




The screwdriver should do wonders for the fimish


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## Monocrom (Sep 23, 2010)

Bit surprised to hear their response about the threads.

But yeah, mis-matched color on HA parts is common as dirt on SureFire lights. (Sometimes it works out, and you get a nice two-tone look of sorts.)

I've bought several SF lights off of the MarketPlace. Best bargain was an L1 Cree that the previous owner had treated as a shelf-queen. I got it for practically half price.

When it comes to older SF models, it's usually not worth paying full price. I refuse to do so, considering SureFire never discounts. Best bet is indeed to buy from a CPFer with an established reputation. Will it work 100% of the time? No. But it greatly reduces your chances of getting screwed over. 

A while back, I bought a customized SureFire light with the short clip no longer making contact with the body. Seller didn't bother to disclose that fact. And, it was definitely noticeable. I was not too happy about that. Being the short clip, it's not even as though I can remove it; and carefully apply pressure until it bends back down a bit. I mainly wanted the customized head, and had already decided to use the head on a different body. The problem with the clip became less of a headache.

Bought the light from a veteran CPFer. Lesson learned. Never going to buy from him again. But the rest of my buying experiences on the MarketPlace were positive. Don't let one incident ruin things for you. If you want something new like a SureFire M3LT, then definitely buy a new one from an authorized SF Dealer. If it's an older model, you're still better off trying the MarketPlace first.

BTW, was the Seller willing to do anything for you after you contacted him?


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## Midnight Oil (Sep 23, 2010)

Monocrom said:


> Bit surprised to hear their response about the threads.
> 
> But yeah, mis-matched color on HA parts is common as dirt on SureFire lights. (Sometimes it works out, and you get a nice two-tone look of sorts.)
> 
> ...


 
Thanks for your response and sharing your purchasing experience on MP, Monocrom.

I actually haven't contacted the seller. Just can't imagine him or anyone else for that matter offering an exchange, unless he can somehow resell it, because he will suffer a loss otherwise.


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## Toohotruk (Sep 23, 2010)

I've bought quite a few lights off the Marketplace, and I can truly say, I haven't had a single bad experience, and I wouldn't hesitate to do bidness with any of those guys again. :thumbsup:

BTW...the HA on my C2 matches perfectly.


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## Eric242 (Sep 24, 2010)

recDNA said:


> The screwdriver should do wonders for the fimish


I can´t imagine anyone being that clumsy :devil: I´ve done it 4 times now without any marks, scratches or nicks.

Eric


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## ElectronGuru (Sep 24, 2010)

Removing/adding 50+ clips a month, we have taken to using the pointy end of a bone paper folder. 
Its low risk for both light and hand.


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## recDNA (Sep 24, 2010)

That's a unique solution.

I once scratched a brand new titanium flashlight just trying to take it out of the package. I could _definitely_ scratch a C2 with a screwdriver!


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## angelofwar (Sep 25, 2010)

Cesiumsponge said:


> Email Surefire and they'll send you a clip and plastic retaining tab for free as it's part of their well-known customer service support. I emailed them when I was worried about some wiggly play in my clip and they sent me a replacement ASAP.
> 
> Pro AND con
> Pro: you'll want to mod it
> Con: you'll want another one to keep stock


 
Nice Sponge! What pack is that?


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## recDNA (Sep 25, 2010)

Anybody ever try a Uniq tailcap with their C2?


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## Bullzeyebill (Sep 25, 2010)

recDNA said:


> Anybody ever try a Uniq tailcap with their C2?



Yes, fits ok. It is slightly larger OD than 1" body. Color is not too far off (natural HA). Need 6+ volts for it to function properly with LED, or Incan.

Bill


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## Midnight Oil (Sep 25, 2010)

Congrats to BB for becoming a mod.


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## recDNA (Sep 25, 2010)

I could use 2 x rcr123 but I prefer primaries. I guess it wont work with primaries because thry will quickly drop below 6 volts.


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## GunnarGG (Oct 18, 2010)

You guys seems to like your C2L Surefires, so I put my post here.

Today I ordered my first Surefire, a C2L.

I have a few other lights (Fenix, EagleTac, Zebralight, Quark, ITP) but no Surefire yet.

The discussions about Surefire hasn't gone unnoticed by me but I have been hesitating to buy one. I prefer neutral white and as far as I know there is no neutral (LED) Surefire. So then there is drop ins like Malkoff and suddenly the price gets pretty high including shipping to Europe and tax/custom. But I have felt that I need to have at least one Surefire to know what you all are talking about, right?

Today I saw a thread about a sale in Norway and ordered one:

http://195.18.224.241/F0216/main.aspx?page=article&artno=X1-C2L-HA

The thing is that there are a lot of Surefire models and each seems to evolve over time and it's not easy to follow for a Surefire newbe.

The one I ordered claims 80 lumens, I have seen that on other sites as well but there is also a 120 lumens model. A have also seen something about Gen 1 and 2, is that the 80 and 120 lumens?
And it seems to me that there has been a model with type II anodization but the newer one have type III (as the one I ordered). Is that right?

I will see what it looks like, how the beam and tint is. If it's acceptibel I'll keep it as it is, otherwise I try to get another drop-in for it later.
I hope I will like it!

Then there are the HDS lights that I maybe just must have one of even though I don't need it, but that's another story in another thread...


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## jamesmtl514 (Oct 18, 2010)

does anyone else have noticeable battery rattle in their C series?
Both my C2 and C3 rattle. The C2 more so.
The 6P not at all. and E series not at all.


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## Roood (Jul 13, 2011)

Hi All.

Just got the C2 Centurion LED the one with 80 lumens. Can someone please tell me what exactly is the run time on this?

TIA

- Rod


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## angelofwar (Jul 13, 2011)

Roood said:


> Hi All.
> 
> Just got the C2 Centurion LED the one with 80 lumens. Can someone please tell me what exactly is the run time on this?
> 
> ...


 
Off the top of my head, about 1.75 hours optimal (75-80 lumens), and about 9 hours dimming (usable) light.


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## mbw_151 (Jul 14, 2011)

If you aren't an incan fan, the best thing you can do for a C2 is put in a Malkoff dropin with the output/runtime and color that suits your fancy. An M61WLL will run 10 hours in regulation with 70 lumens output and close to incan color. This is my favorite general use light, bright enough for most uses and long running. It is great for camping, power outages and other emergencies.


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## Roood (Jul 14, 2011)

@angelofwar: Really? the 120 lumen LED says 2 hours. 80 lumens is the same?


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## angelofwar (Jul 14, 2011)

The 120 lumen model's runtime is "tactical" runtime (until the light drops below 50 lumens)...so you probably get about an hour of balls-to-the-walls 120 lumens, but then it starts it's decline. The lower powered (hence longer running) P60L has a longer "peak". I'll find a link to runtime graphs of the two and post them for you so you get a better understanding.

Oh, and Welcome to CPF...and +1 on the Malkoff. If you want a good balance of out-put/runtime, go for one of the "L" or "LL" models.


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## Roood (Jul 14, 2011)

Ok thanks Aow. A graph would be nice. Sorry. Just new to this. Never bothered to be this detailed on my SFs before. And thanks for the warm welcome.


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## Kamerat (Sep 6, 2012)

Modding a C2 can be quite a challenge for a person who has never done that before. Making a drop in! Now, I'm trying to find out what reflector to use. I guess that the longer the reflector, the better the throw - at the same time - what will fit in the C2. Can I use MCR-20, MCR-27 and/or a MCR-38 in a C2?

Humbly - thanks!


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## fresh eddie fresh (Sep 6, 2012)

Kamerat said:


> Modding a C2 can be quite a challenge for a person who has never done that before. Making a drop in! Now, I'm trying to find out what reflector to use. I guess that the longer the reflector, the better the throw - at the same time - what will fit in the C2. Can I use MCR-20, MCR-27 and/or a MCR-38 in a C2?
> 
> Humbly - thanks!



You could always get an M2 head and retrofit a reflector to fill it up. If someone made a crazy throwing M2 drop in that took up all of that space I know I would buy one!


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## Kestrel (Sep 6, 2012)

fresh eddie fresh said:


> You could always get an M2 head and retrofit a reflector to fill it up. If someone made a crazy throwing M2 drop in that took up all of that space I know I would buy one!


There are a few of *these* out there; AFAIK only four were ever made if I'm not mistaken? :thinking:
If a person was going to custom-build a dedicated head this would be the way to go.


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## fresh eddie fresh (Sep 6, 2012)

Kestrel said:


> There are a few of *these* out there; AFAIK only four were ever made if I'm not mistaken? :thinking:If a person was going to custom-build a dedicated head this would be the way to go.


That is a thing of beauty! Just when I thought it was the light of my dreams, I saw the orange one, and THAT became the light of my dreams! When I used to have an M60 it was ok in the M2 because it was a tighter beam, but with the M61s I have, the edge of the spill seems to get cut off.


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## Kestrel (Sep 6, 2012)

fresh eddie fresh said:


> That is a thing of beauty! Just when I thought it was the light of my dreams, I saw the orange one, and THAT became the light of my dreams!


I have handled the orange one that you see in the pics. It is a very good light. :devil:


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## Kamerat (Sep 9, 2012)

fresh eddie fresh said:


> That is a thing of beauty! Just when I thought it was the light of my dreams, I saw the orange one, and THAT became the light of my dreams! When I used to have an M60 it was ok in the M2 because it was a tighter beam, but with the M61s I have, the edge of the spill seems to get cut off.



Thanks! I'll try using the M2 head an try to fit a reflector with this size into it (from Customlites):


38mm Diameter 
15.32mm length 
8.64mm emitter opening 

Thanks again!


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