# Vital Gear switch replacement tutorial.



## lightknot (Sep 18, 2011)

*Vital Gear switch replacement tutorials.*

Vital Gear Switch Replacement Tutorials

For the vast majority of enthusiasts, the *aftermarket switch option* will be the go - to method. We have switch upgrade kits available.

*Original switch option* (Written by lightknot for replacement of a stock Vital Gear switch with another stock switch.)
This swap is very easy. Only one tool is needed, a pair of round nose pliers or snap ring pliers. A pair of snap ring pliers was used for this tutorial. (A big screwdriver or even a paper clip will work.)
Unscrew tailcap/ switch assemby.
Use snap ring pliers to remove brass retaining ring from inside the tailcap.
Push on outside end of rubber boot and the switch will pop out.
Reverse the procedure to install new switch. 
Notice that the switch is sunken down below the threads of the tailcap:
Install the retaining ring manually. Make sure that the switch is seated properly in the boot and the brass ring before tightening. The circuit board of the switch must make contact with the brass ring. This is necessary to properly complete the electrical path. This step is not difficult, the switch will seat naturally and look like the picture below.
Then tighten with the snap ring pliers. Do not over tighten.
Screw the tailcap assembly back onto the body tube, assemble the head, and test.
*

Aftermarket switch option:* (Written by nein166, reposted with permission, and edited by lightknot on 04/11/20. For replacement of the stock VG switch with an aftermarket 10mm reverse clicky switch. 
1. Take the new aftermarket switch and bend the tabs out straight and _very quickly _ solder a short spring on to the bottom metal plate of the switch..
2. Next, using a Dremel or other rotary tool, enlarge the hole that the rubber boot fits in. The clicky is slightly fatter than the original micro-switch. Once the light is together the grind is not visible.
3. Insert the boot, it should still be really tight.
4. Press the clicky in there, it's going to be really tight.
5. Screw in the brass ring and screw on the tail cap to the body. Don't try clicking it with out the light together since the clicky could pop apart. Maybe some glue along the tabs would keep this from happening. But as long as the batteries are in it should be fine.
More info will become available as testing progresses. Comments welcome.

Edit by Lightknot: By far the hardest part of this conversion is soldering the spring to the switch without melting the switch. *Soldering skills are required*!


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## lightknot (Dec 7, 2011)

Tutorial updated.
And again on 4/11/20. Please pay attention to the dates of the posts and revisions.
Please feel free to PM with any questions.


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## blackbalsam (Dec 7, 2011)

Thanks for the Tutorial as i have a few Vital Gear bodies , but none require a new switch yet


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## Blight (Dec 7, 2011)

Thank you for the tutorial. 

Could you explain what makes the switch goes bad in the first place, and what can be done to prevent the switch from going bad once a replacement is found? I'm actually looking for a replacement switch. Have been for awhile now. 

Thank you.


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## lightknot (Dec 7, 2011)

Vital Gear Switches were manufactured in several varieties. The first was a twisty, there was a push button leaf spring version and a push button coil spring version. The leaf spring model had small tabs which could be bent to make the electrical connection, but could also bend "in" which would disconnect the flow of electricity. They were replaced by the (much more efficient) coil spring. The usual reason that Vital Gear switches "go bad" is because the connection between the switch and the brass retaining ring is interrupted. This can be due to the fragility of the switch itself, or simply a loose connection. (See step in red in post #1.) Stock Vital Gear coil spring switches are available at this time. (Vital Gear Sales in the marketplace) Vital Gear FBSW switches are rated at 1.2 amps. When used with high power drop-ins, including triples and quads, they can go . In this case, a good option is to use a high current switch from DX. Details of this mod in post #1 as well. Questions/ comments welcomed.


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## lightknot (Dec 26, 2011)

Low Current and High Current options now covered.


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## Mike Docherty (Jan 4, 2012)

Does anyone have a link to purchase the DX 11mm switches?


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## nein166 (Jan 5, 2012)

Mike Docherty said:


> Does anyone have a link to purchase the DX 11mm switches?


Its item number 5588 on dealextreme

Please take extreme care in trying to solder on a spring, I've melted a few switches in the process, really can't spend more than 3 seconds on the contact plate with an iron
also clamp the switch in a helping hands, get the spring hot first holding it with tweezers and bring the spring and iron down to the switch together.
Give the switch time to cool before attempting to add more solder, good solder flux really helps, not the plumbers type kester


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## lightknot (Jan 25, 2012)

High current switch link (as of January 2012)Clicky-switch-for-flashlights-11mm-5-pack-5588
Edit: 04/11/20 currently sourcing new switches.


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## lightknot (May 10, 2012)

High current and stock replacement switches also available in the Vital Gear Sales thread in the Marketplace.


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## Pontiaker (Jul 16, 2012)

Great info, thanks buddy!
Matt


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## Pontiaker (Jul 16, 2012)

Also great info, one thing to add though. If you sweat a little solder on the bottom of the spring fist, then a little on the switch all you have to do is touch them together with your iron and as soon as one or the other is hot enough to melt the solder, take away the heat quickly. It works very fast and doing it this way will keep the heat out of the switch since you only need heat there for a split second. Good flux is mandatory!


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## nein166 (Jul 18, 2012)

Yes Pontiaker very good point. If you don't have a spring with Silver or gold plating its going to take some heat to tin it. Best to do that first
I put the switch in an aluminum vise so one jaw holds the edge of the switch plate it keeps it from overheating and helps to center the spring


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## lightknot (Jul 26, 2013)

High current switches back in stock on the website.


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## lightknot (Mar 31, 2014)

We have finally sourced some good gold springs for the high current switches.


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## lightknot (Feb 23, 2015)

Vital Gear replacement switches are in stock. Please see the signature link.


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## lightknot (Oct 5, 2015)

Original post edited with soldering info.
High Current Switches are in stock and available at fourleafflashlights.com


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## SVT-ROY (Feb 14, 2016)

lightknot said:


> Original post edited with soldering info.
> High Current Switches are in stock and available at fourleafflashlights.com



I'm having issues with the stock switch not working well, this is very useful. Thank you. Hope the switches are still available.


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## lightknot (Feb 14, 2016)

*Re: Vital Gear switch replacement tutorials.*

They are at this time.


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## Str8stroke (Feb 14, 2016)

I am going to have to do the High Current mod in the near future. I know its a older thread, but thank you guys, for compiling and posting all that. 
Curious if the high current switches are silent like the stock switches are? I doubt they are, just wondering.


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## lightknot (Feb 14, 2016)

The high current switches have an audible "click" and they are reverse clickys as opposed to forward.


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## jdboy (Feb 14, 2016)

I need to try the switch conversion again! Out of 3 high current switches I managed to melt all three while soldering on the spring.


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## m4a1usr (Feb 14, 2016)

jdboy said:


> I need to try the switch conversion again! Out of 3 high current switches I managed to melt all three while soldering on the spring.



There is a trick to it. The plastic body is going soften due to the heat being applied to the solder pad when you are getting the solder hot enough to melt. And the solder pad will get pushed out away from the plastic body since the inner contact spring has some tension on it. I'm sure that is obvious enough to all. The trick is to hold down the spring/ solder pad with a set needle nose pliers (that's at least how I do it) or tweezers while keeping the pad from getting pushed out of the body. Once the melted plastic body gets hard again you can release the downward pressure on the spring and your done!

It takes a bit of getting used to but when lightknot explained it to me it made perfect sense. Hope you don't mind me posting in your build post.


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## lightknot (Apr 29, 2016)

m4a1usr said:


> There is a trick to it. The plastic body is going soften due to the heat being applied to the solder pad when you are getting the solder hot enough to melt. And the solder pad will get pushed out away from the plastic body since the inner contact spring has some tension on it. I'm sure that is obvious enough to all. The trick is to hold down the spring/ solder pad with a set needle nose pliers (that's at least how I do it) or tweezers while keeping the pad from getting pushed out of the body. Once the melted plastic body gets hard again you can release the downward pressure on the spring and your done!
> 
> It takes a bit of getting used to but when lightknot explained it to me it made perfect sense. Hope you don't mind me posting in your build post.


*
^This is VERY important!!^*

*jdboy* contact me, I will get you some new switches, if you haven't sourced them already.


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## jdboy (May 1, 2016)

lightknot said:


> *
> ^This is VERY important!!^*
> 
> *jdboy* contact me, I will get you some new switches, if you haven't sourced them already.



Thanks for the offer but I don't think I should ask you to replace switches that I messed up myself.


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## lightknot (May 1, 2016)

Ok, No problem, just thought I'd offer.


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## lightknot (Oct 7, 2016)

Brand new Vital Gear switches are still available at fourleafflashlights.com

High current switches (w/ gold springs) are also available.


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## bykfixer (Oct 7, 2016)

Getchya some new o-rings while there folks...

Thanks for the write up!!! 
I just acquired an incan FB2 and those o-rings were a great addition. Mine looked like a newspaper rubber band from 1974. 

Thank you!!


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## thugcop (Aug 29, 2019)

Thank You!


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## lightknot (Apr 11, 2020)

04/11/2020
Original VG brand switches are almost unobtainable at this time.
We still have a few aftermarket switch upgrade kits available.
Vital Gear E2C adapters, and _possibly_ upgraded FB2 flashlight bodies will be available soon.


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## id30209 (Apr 11, 2020)

*Re: Vital Gear switch replacement tutorials.*

Good i found this cause my switch just failed on me 
Good read!


Sent from Tapatalk


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## lightknot (Apr 11, 2020)

*Re: Vital Gear switch replacement tutorials.*

I have springs and switches, in stock, for your upgrade.


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## Papa Death (Sep 20, 2020)

*Re: Vital Gear switch replacement tutorials.*



lightknot said:


> I have springs and switches, in stock, for your upgrade.


How can i get these switches? I need 2


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## lightknot (Sep 21, 2020)

*Re: Vital Gear switch replacement tutorials.*

Papa Death, welcome to the forum. Honored to read your first post ever. Please introduce yourself in the appropriate subforum. I can send you Vital Gear replacement switches and springs. I cannot PM you until you make four more posts. Please email me at : [email protected]


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## lustforlumens (Jan 21, 2021)

Hey guys new to the page.

Looking to get vital gear replacement switches.

Links or phone numbers. 

Thanks in advance


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## lightknot (Jan 22, 2021)

*lustforlumens*, Welcome to the forum. Honored to have your first post. Please introduce yourself, have a look around, and when you have made four more posts, PM me for the Vital Gear Switch info. I have several switch kits available.


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## lustforlumens (Feb 1, 2021)

*Re: Vital Gear switch replacement tutorials.*

Will do much appreciated. Thanks for the welcome


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