# A Classic Revisited - Dorcy 1AAA



## UnknownVT (Feb 15, 2006)

Time to revisit a classic value for money LED flashlight.

I bought my first Dorcy 1AAA (1LED) almost as soon as I saw discussion about it on CPF. Apparently at the regular price of $5.94 - WalMart could not keep them on the shelves for long, and people were reporting them sold out .

So it was just about a week later that I bought my second one when they came back in stock.

All in all the Dorcy 1AAA was considered great value for money and had a performance in the ballpark of the highly regarded ArcAAA - the CPF favorite at the time.

In my review of my second Dorcy 1AAA I thought I had figured out a way to pick a light with a good beam while it was still in its blister pack. This turned out only to be partially true. Although it was true for the one I picked and others reported similar success - I have to admit that I have bought 4 more Dorcy 1AAA’s over time that I had to return for one issue or another.

The Dorcy 1AAA went through a new issue - which was more in a cosmetic change and a slight difference in circuit component going from a CX chip to one that’s marked AM...... But basically it remained unchanged materially.

Until recently when I heard about a change from reflector to focusing/collimating lens and a significant difference in its circuit and construction - enough that many people were saying they had better stock up on the older versions.......

I got a newer version recently - one with a focusing lens - so what are the differences?







Side-by-side one can see the difference between a generation 1 and the two later generations - cosmetically the Dorcy printing on the barrel has been removed and the rubber inserts have gone from a parallel; ribbing to a diamond shaped pattern - with Dorcy embossed.

It’s not until one examines the front of the light that it is clear gen3 has the focusing lens






There wasn’t much difference between the gen1 and gen2 - other than the obvious lottery in beam quality for a cheap flashlight. Often there were also tint variations - I’ve seen very blue beams and the more recent ones seem to tend to a warm brown. But basically a Dorcy 1AAA was not going to surprise too much.

But the gen3 lens version performs quite differently

gen3 vs. gen1 Dorcy 1AAA







As expected the new gen 3 Dorcy 1AAA with lens - gives a spot beam with very little side-spill. Compared to the older versions the spot beam is like a cartoon spot light circle - pretty well delimited - whereas the older versions using a reflector give a much wider and usable side-spill which helps light up a room.

I initially was negative about spot beams - until I tried the River Rock 1.5w 2AA (focusing lens) - I was impressed enough with its spot beam - that I went and got the similar performing River Rock 1.5w 2C as well.

In my course of using/playing with these spot beams I thought that sometimes I saw more clearly using the spot - like it was a “higher-definition” light - I thought it might have to do with the spot beam being pretty even in level, whereas we’re used to lights that are very bright in the center with fade outwards.

I’m still thinking of ways to show this phenomena - but since I have two versions of basically the same flashlight one with lens spot beam and the other with regular reflector - I attempted to show it......

First was to put two optical test targets side by side and more or less point the lights at the center. Expose for the spot and take the side-by-side comparison.






The reflector beam of the gen1 shows a lot more than the spot beam as expected - and I could not say with any certainty whether one was better defined than the other......

However illuminating a printed page with the two lights and exposing for the spot - 






Even though the gen1 again shows more - I think the gen3’s beam may actually show a bit better definition - I think it simply comes down to the evenness of the spot beams - whereas the reflector gen1 beam is more patchy - so the results are variable within the beam - some parts may look better, others less so.......

Here are the circuits from the 3 generations -


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## WildRice (Feb 15, 2006)

Cool, I did not know about the gen3. 2 main things I can see (aside from the lens), 1, the board is shorter, and 2. if the 1 chip is still a voltage multiplier (like the ones in the earlier versions), what is the second SMD (transistor). Is there some kind of current regulation added????

HMMMMM

Jeff


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## colubrid (Feb 15, 2006)

This is really cool. Thanks for the post!


Now I want to go and find a Dorcy 1st gen for sale.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 16, 2006)

Unknownvt,

Even though I already own a couple Dorcy's and have modded all of them with Nichia CS, I would like to thank you for all of your write up's and especially the pics you include with them! I think that your pics are some of (if not the) most effective when it comes to actually showing what a light can do. It really gives a good idea as to how the light is going to look in person, unlike a really bright dot on a white wall.
I purchased a Q3 tonight based on the pics you included in one of your other posts. 
I just thought I would let you know that your hard work isn't going unappreciated.
A+:rock:


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## Russell52 (Feb 16, 2006)

The one with the focused lens is also shorter than the one with the normal flood lens...


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## Solstice (Feb 16, 2006)

Hmmm- the Gen 3 seems far less useful to me than the floody ones. I figure they did it to make the light SEEM brighter and warrant a purchase.


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## RebelXTNC (Feb 16, 2006)

I can't comment on the Dorcy itself, but after having purchased the River Rock 2xC light the other day I can say that I had exactly the same perception as UnknownVT. The focused spot does seem to give more definition. I think it's even more noticeable when the light is handheld. The focused spot is evenly illuminated enough and large enough that the object of interest is covered in a very uniform light. With a reflector beam the change from the hotspot to the corona, along with any artifacts, is constantly moving across your subject when the light is handheld. I can certainly see why some people would not be comfortable with such a defined spot, but I have found it beneficial and not a negative thing at all. If you want a light specifically for closer, floody uses it could be more of an issue, so with a keychain light I'm not sure how people will react. But I can say that you can't automatically dismiss a light with an optic without trying it yourself.


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## BlackDecker (Feb 16, 2006)

The Wal-Mart near my office still has the Gen2 Dorcy 1aaa on the shelf, as it doesn't have the focusing lens on the front. I thought my light was more floody than the Gen 3 mentioned before.

I may have to go back there and get a few more before they run out.


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## greenlight (Feb 16, 2006)

Looks like the same lens that is on the Sears 2AA led light. Still, for a 1aa focused light, I prefer my inova x1.


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## attowatt (Feb 16, 2006)

UnknownVT,

Thanks for posting this thread,:thumbsup: it brings new light to me wanting to purchase a Gen 3. My only question, is there a chance you can do a side by side at a further distance maybe 15, 20, or 25 feet to show if there is any advantage of the Gen 3 over the other 2 at that distance? Considering that it(Gen3) is a spotlight. My hopes are that with a different LED installed in the Gen 3, it will give some throw.

Thanks
Jim


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## UnknownVT (Feb 16, 2006)

*attowatt* wrote: _"is there a chance you can do a side by side at a further distance maybe 15, 20, or 25 feet to show if there is any advantage of the Gen 3 over the other 2 at that distance? Considering that it(Gen3) is a spotlight. My hopes are that with a different LED installed in the Gen 3, it will give some throw."_

The Dorcy 1AAA for $5.94 at WalMart - it's cheaper for you to buy one and try it - if you don't like it WalMart has a no fuss return policy.....

But - I'm a sucker for requests - reasonable or not....

Using my standardized settings for my stairs "Practical" Beamshots -

ISO100 0.6sec f/2.8 daylight white balance - lens set at 28mm (equiv)








Not happy huh?

I optimized the exposure just to show the difference - 
this is giving something like 5x the exposure 
at +2 1/3 Stops more exposure than my standardized settings -

ISO100, 3.2sec, f/2.8, daylight, 28mm








The gen3 Dorcy 1AAA does _NOT_ throw any better - unless you consider its spot is larger and a lot more even........

For typical indoors usage the older style reflector based ones - ie: gen1 and gen2 would give more and more useful light - as the reflector directs more light forward especially light that's emitted in directions other than forward. Whereas a lens focusses the already forward light into a spot and basically loses the any light not already going forward.

However the spot is pretty even and light is limited to more or less the spot - which can be a good thing for certain applications - like not disturbing others or not attracting attention.....

The optimized stairs shot kind of shows what it is like using the light in a darkened room - the gen1 (and gen2) Dorcy 1AAA gives quite a lot of usable light - that's the reason I've EDC the Dorcy 1AAA (gen1) more or less as soon as I tried them - I can't think of a much higher compliment.

I'm now waiting for someone to ask for the pampas grass "Practical" Beamshots? pt.2 (outdoors) ........ :huh:


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## Brighteyez (Feb 16, 2006)

Thanks for posting those shots Vincent. You just saved me a trip to Wal*Mart . Then I realized that I had replaced the 1AAA with the 1AA, which in turn was replaced by a 2AAA River Rock. ... probably best not to look back .

But thanks again!


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## UnknownVT (Feb 16, 2006)

*Brighteyez* wrote: _"You just saved me a trip to Wal*Mart . Then I realized that I had replaced the 1AAA with the 1AA, which in turn was replaced by a 2AAA River Rock. ... probably best not to look back ."_

heh-heh - soemtimes it's well worth looking back - I do realize everyone has a different take - and that's what makes the world go round - YMMV as they always say....

But human physiology is not that different - unless one has very different or defective eyes. 

It is amazing how much one can see with how _*LITTLE*_ light.

I've re-confirmed this for myself recently playing around with the Rigel SkyLite Mini Red/White - continuously variable brightness - I can easily navigate round a cluttered room with the Rigel SkyLite Mini on its dimmest white setting - and that is lower than the eternaLight 3 ergo on its dimmest white - and even lower than my deliberately dim 20 for $20 white LED (salvaged) on a single 2016 (ie: only 3 volts) - so the Dorcy 1AAA is like Daylight compared to that.

I mostly use the Dorcy 1AAA EDC for helping others see or find things (acting like a human lamp stand :huh: ) - 
I find it *too bright *for my own personal handheld reading - when I'm in a dark environment - 
I prefer to use my other EDC - the Photon 2 Yellow to less disturb my semi-dark conditioned eyes.

The gen1 Dorcy 1AAA EDC is what I used for my Dorcy 1AAA Outdoors experience - and this was out in the countryside with no street or other lighting....... 
I really don't think I have any special eyesight - as others in that thread show......

I have lots of other lights that I could easily EDC if I really wanted to - including the real pocket rockets of the Nuwai Q3 on 3.6V RCR123 or the even brighter LightHound V3 3watt on 3.6V RCR123 - 
but I don't.... 
as brighter is _NOT_ always better.

Like I said the Dorcy 1AAA is a classic giving the _*right amount*_ of useful light for most of my EDC tasks - I will stay with it until I find something better - but it probably will not just be brighter.......


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## NeonLights (Feb 16, 2006)

I happened by a local WalMart tonight and looked at some of the Dorcy 1AAA LED lights they had hanging up. From what I could tell, about 2/3 of them were the gen2 style and the rest were gen3. I may have to pick up a couple of the gen2's before they disappear.

-Keith


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## Brighteyez (Feb 16, 2006)

Oh yeah ... LED_Experimenter sold me the light and put the bug in my ear about the 3.6V RCR123, but it was your pictures that cinched it. Now if that charger and batteries will just get here ... 



UnknownVT said:


> Nuwai Q3 on 3.6V RCR123


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## UnknownVT (Feb 16, 2006)

I found the original thread that told me there were 3 versions of the Dorcy 1AAA from December last year 
- there's some good information in the thread -

There are THREE version of Dorcy 1xAAA floating around


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## powernoodle (Feb 16, 2006)

_Dorcy and buddies._


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## geepondy (Feb 16, 2006)

Thanks for the heads up. Glad I have my Dorcy 1 AAA "classic". Although I found it a bit bulky to carry on the keychain, I used it a lot at work for close up inspection. Now I tend to use the River Rock 1AAA as it's brighter although bluer.


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## Krit (Feb 16, 2006)

I make some mod to my EDC dorcy 1AAA by change LED to Nichia U bin. It's very bright for my EDC use.
I just know that my dorcy is 2 nd generation.


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## UnknownVT (Feb 24, 2006)

Over a week ago when I bought my gen3 Dorcy 1AAA (lensed version) there were "plenty" - gen2 & 3 (prob about 6-8) at my local WalMart.

On Tuesday (Feb/21) I was in the same WalMart and they were all gone.

This particular WalMart doesn't keep that many Dorcy 1AAA in stock and they seem to move slowly but steadily - I said "plenty" because 6-8 of them was fairly unusual - BUT to see them all gone in about a week is very unusual (at least since the early days)

Is this just a local run on them - 
or have others noticed this?


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## Nyctophiliac (Feb 24, 2006)

Does anybody know how I can order Dorcy lights here in th UK?
A paypal using dealer would be ideal.


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## AlCanada1 (Feb 24, 2006)

Nyctophiliac,
Please Email me with your mailing address, and I will send you some DORCY LED Products with my compliments.
You can reach me at [email protected]
Take care.


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## twentysixtwo (Feb 24, 2006)

Wow! Big cheers for Dorcy! Satisfying flashaholics worldwide.

Me, I've lost count of the Dorcy AAA's I have - there's at least 5 or 6 in my house, and I've given away at least another 3 or 4. Most were modded with either U bin CS or 26k/35k/40k's...


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## DaveG (Feb 24, 2006)

I was at a Wal-mart that had restocked w Dorcy 1aaa after the holidays the peg was full,I went back the next week and 2 were left. Most of the Wal-marts I go to seem to have only 2-4 at any given time. For the price a good light, I modded one of mine with a green led, like it a lot. It would be nice if Dorcy came out with colored leds for this light.


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## C4LED (Feb 24, 2006)

I've really liked and used the first 2 generations of this light. This new one doesn't appear to be as useful. Anyone have any further thoughts or exeriences with comparing this new version to the old in terms of usefulness...?


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## UnknownVT (Feb 24, 2006)

*C4LED* wrote: _"any further thoughts or exeriences with comparing this new version to the old in terms of usefulness...?"_

The first two generations with the reflector are probably more generally useful for a small pocket light - as the reflector helps make the most of the light from the LED - by reflecting as much light forward as possible.

Whereas the focussing lens version only collimates/focusses light already going forward. 

However there are some cases when the lensed light is better - if one wants to limit the amount of side-spill stray light so as not to disturb others or attract unwanted attention.

Also as some others have found - the spot light illumination is very even - which seems to give the impression of a "high-definition" view - things seem to be sharper or higher definition to me.

So although I am not jumping up and down with joy for this change, I find it is a worthy complement to the reflector version. I bought that version specifically because it was "different" with a focussing lens.

At less than $6 from a local WalMart it's worth trying just to see for oneself (WalMart has a no fuss return policy if it really disappoints)


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## MacTech (Feb 24, 2006)

Okay, given the good reviews the Dorcy 1AAA has been getting here, i decided to give it a chance, i had always seen these lights in wally world and turned my nose up at them, a 5MM LED powered by a single AAA, must suck....

well, i was wrong....and right at the same time...

thanks to the threads linked here, i knew there were 3 versions made, two available (Rev 2 and 3), Rev 2 uses a reflector, Rev 3 uses an optic, and judging by others beamshots, i preferred the Rev 2 reflectored model....

so, i went to my local wally world and checked out their selection of the 1AAA's, they had about 15 in stock, all but 2 were the Rev. 3 Optic design, so needless to say, i snapped up the remaining 2 Rev. 2 reflectored models, and just on a whim, i picked up the optic version as well, just to see the difference....

i grabbed my Spyderco Jester and sliced open the hated blisterpack, and unpacked the Rev. 3 optic version first and set it up....
i was *extremely* dissapointed, it was a dim version of the Inova X1, completely underwhelming, ironically, if i *removed* the optic and held the light engine in place, i got a much more usable, and marginally *brighter* beam

i rate the Rev. 3 1AAA a dissapointing 2 out of 10, this one's going back to wally-world...

so, with my first experience with the 1AAA a resounding dissapointment, i wasn't holding out much hope for the Rev. 2....

i cut the Rev. 2 free of it's blisterpack, popped the battery in, and prepared myself for dissapointment....

this time, i was wrong, the reflectored model emitted a nice, smooth beam, a decent, if somewhat swirly hotspot, tapering off to a quite usable spill, a little bluish-purplish tint, but not bad, this one's a keeper, *this* one makes me understand the popularity of this simple little light

so i cracked open the second reflectored model, and was even more pleassntly surprised, the LED in the second unit had a nice, neutral-yellowish tint, it *almost* looked like an incandescent bulb, it was much less swirly, the hotspot in this one was a little looserm and had a better overall spill, the first one has a little tighter hotspot and slightly less spill, and is more angry-blue/purple, but still usable

a great, inexpensive keychain light....

here's some pics, 3 feet away from the wall;
some pics of common lights for comparison, Minimag, Inova X1 and Fenix L1, the red Dorcy is Ver. 2 reflector, silver is Ver. 3 optic










Rev. 3 optical on the right, Rev. 2 reflectored on the left





and some comparisons with other lights;

Minimag on flood Vs. Dorcy
Reflector;




Optical;





Minimag on spot Vs. Dorcy;
Reflector;




Optical;





Inova X1 Vs. Dorcy;
Reflector;




Optical;





and.... just to be unfair and EEEEVIL! 
Fenix L1 Vs. Dorcy
Reflector;




Optical;


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## C4LED (Feb 25, 2006)

*Re: A Classic Revisited - Dorcy 1AAA(*

UnknownVT: Thanks for your thoughts and original posting - sounds very sensible. Your reviews are always excellent.

MacTech: Thanks for the great beam shots and comments.

It looks like versions 1 and 2 are the best, but 3 is still useful for the price...

Besides having a number of these I've gotten a lot of use out of, they've made excellent gifts, so I've been wondering if I should keep considering these to be worthwhile gifts. They're still good and may continue to be worthwhile gifts, but I may have to consider other LED's (and maybe spending a bit more).  

The v's 1 and 2 are big time keepers, but I won't rule out getting the v 3.

PS: That X1 shot compared to the Dorcy optical version 3 is very interesting - it shows that the new Dorcy version is not an X1 type light w/an excessively narrow beam.


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## TooManyGizmos (Feb 25, 2006)

C4LED said:


> I've really liked and used the first 2 generations of this light. This new one doesn't appear to be as useful. Anyone have any further thoughts or exeriences with comparing this new version to the old in terms of usefulness...?



_____________________________________________

I have several of these and like them very much and give them as gifts.

I prefer to use them for around the neck lanyard carry because of the momentary button cap. Very easy to just grab and push the button . It's so lite and convenient to use at night so I don't trip over the black cat. Going to the bathroom at night with a hands-free light around the neck is the "way to go".

My light's stay in the house and don't get carried in my pockets much . Since I didn't like the rings and artifacts in the beams - I removed all the lenses from my lights . 

You asked for thoughts on making 3rd generation's as usefull as 1st and 2nd - so this is my suggestion.

Remove the lens - which is the culprit that's ruining your beam . Even the lenses on generation 1 and 2 cause outer rings and block the spill-light . 

Here is a link to my post on "How to get the perfect beam" explaining how to get the lens out if you wanna try it. If you can get the head un-screwed without damaging your light - it requires very little effort to get the lens out to try it . Then if you dont like it - just press it back in - no harm done & didn't take long.

Try using it around your neck on a lanyard - you'll like it .

Have fun- but be carefull ....................enjoy .


.....................*


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## UnknownVT (Feb 25, 2006)

*MacTech* wrote: "_unpacked the Rev. 3 optic version first and set it up...._
_i was *extremely* dissapointed, it was a dim version of the Inova X1, completely underwhelming, ironically, if i *removed* the optic and held the light engine in place, i got a much more usable, and marginally *brighter* beam_

_i rate the Rev. 3 1AAA a dissapointing 2 out of 10, this one's going back to wally-world..._
_Rev. 3 optical on the right, Rev. 2 reflectored on the left_
_



_

_Inova X1 Vs. Dorcy;_
_Optical;_



"


Thank you very much for your input, and sterling effort





... but before you take that gen3 Dorcy 1AAA back - 
please look again at your own beamshots......

The first one I reproduced is the most telling - you've manage what I was only partially successful at - yes, the reflector gen2 is brighter - but isn't the image of the gen3 lens version of higher definition? I know it is probably only the more even coverage in the spot - but because of that the camera and the eye actually see better.

The comparison between the Inova X1 and the gen3 lens version again shows that the Dorcy is not as bright - but one sees better - because of the close distance and the light not being overwhelming. Again I know the eye will adjust so that one can see in the X1 beam - but in a dark environment and for a handheld (close) task the gen3 lensed Dorcy 1AAA may be superior for the task.

What do you think?


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## TooManyGizmos (Mar 1, 2006)

.

Anybody removed the lens yet to see the difference in beam clarity and side spill ?



What lens does the Dorcy 1 AA have and how bright is it ?


.


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## Beacon of Light (Mar 1, 2006)

It's quite ironic the Rev.3 Dorcy is going the way of the original Inova X1, and the 2nd version of the Inova X1 is going the way of the original Dorcy with the reflector instead of optic. Like I said... ironic...


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## TooManyGizmos (Mar 3, 2006)

Those of you who have and love this AAA model....have you gotten the AA model .

How do they compare? Can we get some reports and threads going on the AA or is it not worthy ?

.


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## BlackDecker (Mar 3, 2006)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Those of you who have and love this AAA model....have you gotten the AA model .
> 
> How do they compare? Can we get some reports and threads going on the AA or is it not worthy ?
> 
> .



Are you referring to this light?

http://flashlightreviews.com/reviews/dorcy_aa.htm


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## TooManyGizmos (Mar 4, 2006)

BlackDecker said:


> Are you referring to this light?
> 
> http://flashlightreviews.com/reviews/dorcy_aa.htm


_____________________________________________________

Yes.....thats it ....but for some reason I thought it had only 1 LED. 

From the review it seems pretty dim ........so I guess it's not worthy of discussion. 

To be that much bigger - it should be that much brighter.

I don't think I want one now .


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## UnknownVT (Mar 12, 2006)

*UnknownVT* wrote: _"On Tuesday (Feb/21) I was in the same WalMart and they were all gone._
_This particular WalMart doesn't keep that many Dorcy 1AAA in stock and they seem to move slowly but steadily - I said "plenty" because 6-8 of them was fairly unusual - BUT to see them all gone in about a week is very unusual (at least since the early days)"_

I was in my local WalMart last night and they had restocked with 20x Dorcy 1AAA - the ratio of the gen3 lensed Spot light was about 2 to the 1 of gen2 reflector type. ie: there were 13 lensed Spots and 7 reflector.

(body colors were red, blue, and silver - I haven't seen a "gold" one for a while now, and never seen a black one, although I've read they existed....)

So the reflector versions haven't been phased out yet - but it looks as though the lensed Spots are starting to become the majority.

There is another very important point for modders - the circuit board construction - the reflectored version has one that's much easier to just replace the LED - and the board itself is easier to use in other mods.

So if you've ever wanted a Dorcy 1AAA "classic" style or want them for mods - it's time to start thinking about getting the reflector version before they are all gone.


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## gadget_lover (Mar 12, 2006)

TooManyGizmos said:


> _____________________________________________________
> 
> Yes.....thats it ....but for some reason I thought it had only 1 LED.
> 
> ...




The 1AA has some nice features.... 

First, the AA gives a lot of power for a long time.

Second, It's a good size, feels good in the hand.

Third, the three LEDS make a nice flood with almost no artifacts. Their beams overlap so you don't see the hot spot nor imprefections of a normal 1 LED light.

Fourth, they are good for modding.

Daniel


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## Fletch (Mar 12, 2006)

Has anyone figured out how to crank up the current a little using the Version 3 circuit? I think with Version 2, you could just remove or change a resistor. But I'm not an electrical guy so I have no idea how the V3 circuit works...

I just bought one and it is V3, and I'd like to mod it with a Nichia CS, maybe running at 60-70mA...


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## voodoogreg (Mar 12, 2006)

I was wondering If Alcanada1 could maybe clue us into if the 1st and 2nd
gen's will still be made, I can see a situation were these could be made in different factories, or on different lines were component's are are often bought from different supplier's. This would account for my wally world having many gen 3's about 3-4 weeks ago today mostly all 2nd gen's. I don't think even wall-mart keep's that kinda stock at distribution center's. I have seen the same in the Tenn area too. VDG


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## voodoogreg (Mar 13, 2006)

I was wondering If Alcanada1 could maybe clue us into if the 1st and 2nd
gen's will still be made, I can see a situation were these could be made in different factories, or on different lines were component's are are often bought from different supplier's. This would account for my wally world having many gen 3's about 3-4 weeks ago today mostly all 2nd gen's. I don't think even wall-mart keep's that kinda stock at distribution center's. I have seen the same in the Tenn area too. VDG


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## RebelXTNC (Mar 15, 2006)

When I looked at Walmart a couple of weeks ago there were about 20 of these lights with about half and half Gen 2 and 3 mixed together randomly on two hangers. Today there were about 10 lights, but surprisingly ALL the lensed versions were GONE. I was kind of expecting the opposite, but it could just be a coincidence.


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## slowmike (Mar 15, 2006)

For my first post I want to say THANKS! 

For an older fellow the internet has opened up a world of information I didn't know existed until recently. There are several folks who have helped me greatly. With my poor memory the only one I can remember right now is UnknownVT. There are many other contributors who are helping with my 'education'. 

Now, to the Dorcy. I bought the rev.2 and the rev.3. I noticed several things.
1) the body of rev. 3 is shorter than rev.2
2) the head of rev. 3 is longer than rev.2
3) the output of rev.2 is greater than rev. 3
4) I swapped the heads between the two and the rev.3 with the reflector is much dimmer than the stock rev. 2 
5) the rev.2 with the rev.3 head results in a brighter spot than the stock rev. 3 light.

By the way, I've grown rather fond of the spot output of the RR 2AA. The lack of side spill is helpful for the generally tight quarters I use a flashlight. I merely swing the beam left-to-right if I need more light ,,,say walking outside.

I think the Dorcy AAA with the rev. 2 body and rev. 3 head is a handy combo.

Keep up the good work folks. I'm enjoying the company!:wave: 
Mike


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## Flying Turtle (Mar 16, 2006)

Welcome to CPF, slowmike. You'll find this is a great place to spend some time. Maybe the best, especially if you're afflicted like we are.

Geoff (another older fellow)


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## UnknownVT (Mar 16, 2006)

*slowmike* wrote: _"Now, to the Dorcy. I bought the rev.2 and the rev.3. I noticed several things._
_1) the body of rev. 3 is shorter than rev.2_
_2) the head of rev. 3 is longer than rev.2_
_3) the output of rev.2 is greater than rev. 3_
_4) I swapped the heads between the two and the rev.3 with the reflector is much dimmer than the stock rev. 2 _
_5) the rev.2 with the rev.3 head results in a brighter spot than the stock rev. 3 light._
_I think the Dorcy AAA with the rev. 2 body and rev. 3 head is a handy combo."_

Mike,

Welcome to CPF (like all addicts would say: "you're welcome to it!"  ),
and thanks for the kind words.

Good observations.

If one looks at the size comparison photo in the opening post, the difference in heads between gen3, gen2 (and gen1) can be seen. 

It's interesting the shorter body but longer head of the gen3 spot ends up being the same length as the reflector gen2 and gen1........ 

A gen3 spot head on a gen 2 body means it's noticably longer than standard, and the gen2 reflector head on the gen3 body will be shorter......

I have also done the head swap - they are interchangeable despite the length differences. I found for my samples there wasn't that much difference - so it sounds as if your gen3 spot might have been a bit dimmer to begin with.

If it's from your local WalMart - they have a no fuss return - so it might be worthwhile exchanging it.

It might not make too much of a difference - but if there are a number of them - I select one by looking at 2 heads at a time side-by-side - and pick the one that seems to show the yellow of the LED better through the lens - to be sure I change the packages positions, and see if moving around makes the choice different. Put the dimmer one back - compare the next with the selected - until I've done all of the ones I'm interested in.

Seems to work most of the time - and I've heard from others that it works.

However I have returned 4 Dorcy 1AAA for one issue or another so it may not be that reliable - but at least it makes me think I selected/picked the "best"




:huh:


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## RebelXTNC (Mar 16, 2006)

I did end up buying one of the gen 2's last night at Walmart. Mine is actually just barely brighter than one of the CMG Infinity Ultra's that I just received. I have them at work and tested them there, the nicer color tint CMG is at home and I think it's a tad brighter but haven't done a side-by-side. I have compared the brighter CMG to the Gerber version and the new X1. They are all very very close in brightness with similar beams.
My only concern with the Dorcy was the abundance of aluminum chips inside from the final cross-cut that's made at the tail threads. This required a thoroughly cleaning with a Q-tip and some compressed air. I would think it could cause problems with the circuit board as well as getting into the threads if they were left in place. Anyone else find this and what's the purpose of this cut?


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## UnknownVT (Mar 16, 2006)

*RebelXTNC* wrote: _"Mine is actually just barely brighter than one of the CMG Infinity Ultra's that I just received. _
_I have compared the brighter CMG to the Gerber version and the new X1. They are all very very close in brightness with similar beams."_

Shouldn't be too surprising - 
the Dorcy 1AAA is a single 5mm LED (of no particular pedigree) driven by an AAA battery - so it is in a similar class/ballpark to most single 5mm LED lights.

The fact that you even think it's comparable to the new Inova X1 - seems to indicate it acquits itself quite well.


*RebelXTNC* wrote: _"My only concern with the Dorcy was the abundance of aluminum chips inside from the final cross-cut that's made at the tail threads. _
_Anyone else find this and what's the purpose of this cut?"_

That cut at the head end is to accomodate/locate the circuit board. 
I don't know why they've also cut the tail-end - other than maybe being "easier" to cut both ends symetrically. 

Some earlier samples used to scrape off aluminum when screwing the tailcap - I thought I saw this less in later samples - but this could simply be lower QC, for a cheaper light.

However yours sounds as if it has a lot more debris than normal - WalMart has a no fuss return - you might want to consider exchanging it for another?


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## RebelXTNC (Mar 16, 2006)

I meant the CMG, Gerber and X1 have similar beams. The Dorcy is slightly brighter with a hotter hotspot but it does have the typical artifacts of a low-end light with a covered LED. Definitely a lot of bang for the buck though, it can hold its own even though it's not as clean.
I realized those tail cuts can assist in tightening the body tube to the head during assembly. Maybe that's why they cut both ends in addition to it being symmetrical. A penny fits these cuts perfectly, but I still couldn't loosen the head with just my fingers holding it.
I think I got all the debris out. This one has a nice LED so I'm sure I'll keep it.


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## voodoogreg (Mar 16, 2006)

when you have a dorcy tore down rubber grips and all, you'll see the the cut's are for fast/and or auto assembly since it doesn't matter which end 
the module goes on. In fact on one of mine i swapped end's because it 
allowed the led to be centered better. only the head and grips give the tube the finished product.

Would still like to hear from alcanada1 about the production aspect's of the 1,2, and 3 gen version's since my wall mart has a new stock, all
2nd gen. VDG


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## dca2 (Mar 22, 2006)

At the risk of sounding like a complete wimp, how do I get the head off? Mine will not budge. I have yet to break out the vice grips but.......(see signature line)


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## rheslip (Mar 22, 2006)

dca2 said:


> At the risk of sounding like a complete wimp, how do I get the head off? Mine will not budge. I have yet to break out the vice grips but.......(see signature line)


 
What worked for me:
- wrap some heavy padding over the head - I used the rubber part of a strap wrench cause its nice and grippy
- use some pliers to grab the the padded head
- remove the tailcap 
- use a piece of sheet metal or something about 1/16" thick in the machined slot mentioned above to carefully twist the body. Using the slot gives you quite a bit of leverage without having to use a second set of pliers - less risk of damage to the body. Don't crank too hard, you could bend the metal around the slot.

If it still won't let go you'll have to try some of the freezing/ boiling tricks described elsewhere on this site. 

I have two of these with Nichia CS mod - nice little lights.

Rich


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## voodoogreg (Mar 22, 2006)

dca2 said:


> At the risk of sounding like a complete wimp, how do I get the head off? Mine will not budge. I have yet to break out the vice grips but.......(see signature line)



Yeah, I got two that came off, two that won't budge. I used to strap rubber wrench's and twisted a crease in the body, so it not the most hi grade aluminium on the planet  Nor did the boiling work on this one either.
Some just have some sorta X-files glue on them I think.......VDG


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## UnknownVT (Mar 23, 2006)

*voodoogreg* wrote: _"Yeah, I got two that came off, two that won't budge. I used to strap rubber wrench's and twisted a crease in the body, so it not the most hi grade aluminium on the planet  Nor did the boiling work on this one either._
_Some just have some sorta X-files glue on them I think......."_

FWIW - all the ones I tried would unscrew using a simple pair of household rubber gloves


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## dca2 (Mar 23, 2006)

I wrapped it with a rag, held the head with channel locks and used an old metal spoon across the 2 cuts in the end. A little oomph and it came right off. 

Thanks for the help,
Dave


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## voodoogreg (Mar 23, 2006)

I guess i was unlucky, twisting a crease in short aluminium tube leads me to believe some just are glued real well. I've had an easier time getting rusted lifters outta my old sm block re-builds  I know how to weild da toolie's.VDG


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## bestcounsel (Sep 2, 2006)

This light is truly a classic. Im an EP guy and use one some details from time to time. That should say a lot.


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## UnknownVT (Oct 21, 2006)

Recent CPF posts said there were occassional Black Dorcy 1AAA available at some Wal-Marts.

I had never seen a black one in the flesh before. 

I happened to be in my local Wal-Mart the other day - and lo-and-behold there was a single solitary black one amongst the Dorcy 1AAA's - 
it was the only reflectored version (gen 2?) - the others were the lensed versions (gen 3)

Family portrait -




The original gen 1 Dorcy 1AAA had parallel ribbing on the rubber inserts, and Dorcy printed in white on the body tube.
Gen 2 - changed to diamond shaped texturing on the inserts.
Gen 3 - changed to the lens/spot beam.

This Black insert diamond pattern is slightly different - the diamonds seem slightly bigger and the inserts seems less matte than the red gen2 and silver gen3 I have.

The easiest way to distinguish the gen1 & gen2 reflector versions from the gen3 lens/spot beam versions is obviously to look at the heads -





Unfortunately I am unable to unscrew the head of this new black one to look at the circuit.

Black may seem "rare" - 
but I think the "gold" now is also somewhat "rare" too 
since I haven't seen any since the earliest versions (gen1).


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## UnknownVT (Nov 24, 2006)

Up to now there has been 3 generations of the Dorcy 1AAA model 41-4234. 

Now apparently there is now a "new" version which has been called here "gen 4" - 
however I think Dorcy probably regards this as a different model - as it actually has a different model # 41-4222 - see 

a New Dorcy 1AAA (link)

Dorcy 1AAA Family portrait -





The currently available model 41-4234 is gen 3 a lensed/spot version with diamond patterned rubber inserts -

Current draw reading at the battery -

AAA alkaline battery at 1.543V open-circuit -

model 41-4234 

gen 3 = 0.15A
gen 2 = 0.30A
gen 1 = 0.28A

model 41-4222 "gen 4" = 0.14A

The newer (lensed/spot) Dorcy 1AAA seem to be draw about 1/2 the current from the previous reflectored versions - so perhaps the runtimes are now longer than the original reflectored versions?


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## revolvergeek (Nov 30, 2006)

I picked up two new Dorcy AAAs last night at Walmart. Optics, normal style bodies, but in pink and lavander/purple. They also had them in a sort of champagne color that had not seen there before. I will try to post some pics tonight.


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## UnknownVT (Dec 1, 2006)

*revolvergeek* wrote: _"I picked up two new Dorcy AAAs last night at Walmart. Optics, normal style bodies, but in pink and lavander/purple. They also had them in a sort of champagne color that had not seen there before. I will try to post some pics tonight."_

Thanks for the input - looking forward to the pics......

Now, when you say "normal style bodies" do these have or not have the rubber inserts?

Please look at the photo in my post immediately above/previous to yours - is the light on the left that "champagne" color?

If so, please click on this thread -

a New Dorcy 1AAA?

for a lot of discussion on this "new" style Dorcy 1AAA.....

and this review thread -

a New Dorcy 1AAA 

If however yours have rubber inserts with those colors - then I am sure everyone would be very interested in seeing pics of those.......

BTW - what packaging were these in?

the 41-4234 (which is INcorrect for the light that it contains in this picture) -





or the 41-4222 (correct packaging for the lights pictured) -








Thanks,


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## batvette (Dec 1, 2006)

I have a gen 2 I use for EDC on a keyring. The gen 3 appears to have the same bizarre focusing lens as their 3aaa light. I bought one after seeing a neighbor using one, and saw the weird "spotlight" effect. It pretty much sucks for any practical applications though would be great for having shadow-hand-puppet shows with the kids when the power goes out. No, really, I'm serious. 

Dorcy is becoming a joke in my opinion. Every product I've bought lately from them is an underperformer, by a lot. 

The aforementioned Gen 2 1aaa is the exception. Though the keyring was uber-weak, I had to drill the hole all the way through and make a better ring out of SS safety wire.

A 1 watt luxeon 3aaa. Dim, and pukey green-yellow tint.

A 1aa 3 led. Same as above. 

The 3aaa with focusing lens. No shadow hand puppet shows here, no kids and I live in San Diego where we don't have storm related power outages. 

Dorcy seems like a big company, the packages are slick and the product well manufactured. I can only guess the stuff is sub par in performance because they want it that way.


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## revolvergeek (Dec 2, 2006)

Working on my truck this morning, so sorry for the quick scan. I will try to get a better one later.


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## Bearcat (Dec 2, 2006)

Boy did it ever get lucky. Yesterday, I found 3 black generation II Dorcy AAA with the reflector lens at Wal-Mart. They were way in the back hidden among the new generation III lights. They are the first ones that I ever bought, not bad little lights for $5.87.


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## UnknownVT (Dec 2, 2006)

*revolvergeek* wrote: _"Working on my truck this morning, so sorry for the quick scan. I will try to get a better one later."_

WoW! Thank you so much - those are _NEW_ colors with rubber inserts. Cool!

BUT _darn!_ now I'll have to hunt for those to complete my Dorcy 1AAA color collection.

Here's your image enhanced a bit - hopefully it helps?






Have you tried them out - is this new Dorcy 1AAA brighter than the gen 3 Dorcy 1AAA of a few months ago? 
- please see this review thread -

a New Dorcy 1AAA 

I'm wondering if Dorcy have recently *upgraded their 5mm LEDs* - 
since the new 41-4222 Dorcy 1AAA (withOUT the rubber inserts) was definitely and noticably brighter than any of my 3 previous generations 41-4234 (rubber insert versions) ........

Thanks,


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## DaveG (Dec 2, 2006)

I picked up a new Dorcy in the gold tone color a few days ago,its the new model with fish eye lens.I also have a fish eye lens model bought some months back,the one just bought a couple of days ago is brighter in a side by side eye ball test. The older one was a real let down,brightness wise.The newer one is better due to the increased brightness. It wont take your breath away as in a huge increase in light but at least this one is better than the older fish eye model. Still not a big fan of the lens on these things,but at least brighter is better.


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## UnknownVT (Dec 3, 2006)

*DaveG *wrote: _"I picked up a new Dorcy in the gold tone color a few days ago,its the new model with fish eye lens.I also have a fish eye lens model bought some months back,the one just bought a couple of days ago is brighter in a side by side eye ball test. "_

Thanks for the report Dave....

Is that gold-tone with or withOUT rubber inserts?

Ie: like the ones posted by revolvergeek (with rubber inserts - see post #*63*) ,
or like the one leftmost in my Post #*57* in the champagne/gold-tone (withOUT insert)?


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## DaveG (Dec 3, 2006)

Unknown VT-Its the gold tone with rubber inserts, same as post #63,got it at Wal-mart,it was with the new color pink and purple with rubber inserts.I was looking for the one you spoke of with streamlined body,none found.Think you got lucky with that find.


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## Nebula (Dec 3, 2006)

I found the new purple color at Sprawl-Mart yesterday in both styles. I picked up 1 with, and 1 without the rubber inserts. Nice little lights.


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## UnknownVT (Dec 3, 2006)

*DaveG* wrote: _"Its the gold tone with rubber inserts, same as post #63,got it at Wal-mart,it was with the new color pink and purple with rubber inserts.I was looking for the one you spoke of with streamlined body,none found.Think you got lucky with that find.



"_

Thanks again Dave - that ois nice to know the new colors with rubber inserts are noticably brighter than the "original" gen3 (lensed/spot) Dorcy 1AAA.

I agree with you with it being brighter it seems more generally useful.

I guess it still really depends on one's use - for a light that attracts less attention and minimizes disturbance to others a spot type light is more desirable.

However Dorcy seems to have found a compromise - I think a good one - of limiting the spill - yet with a spot that's big enough to make the light more generally useful - for example it lights up my stair fine.....


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## UnknownVT (Dec 3, 2006)

*Nebula* wrote: _"I found the new purple color at Sprawl-Mart yesterday in both styles. I picked up 1 with, and 1 without the rubber inserts. Nice little lights."_

Thanks Nebula -

now here's the question -
was the one withOUT the rubber inserts in the correct packaging (model #41-4222)? 
or was it still in the regular model #41-4234 packaging that says rubber inserts?

Please see Post #*59* for example of the correct packaging and one that was in the incorrect package......

Thanks,


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## Nebula (Dec 3, 2006)

Unknown - I checked my package against your post #59. I have the older packaging, but the light looks like the versions shown in the newer packaging, i.e., knurl rather than rubber. Looks like Dorcy is saving some coin by using the older packaging. Hope this helps. Kirk 



UnknownVT said:


> *Nebula* wrote: _"I found the new purple color at Sprawl-Mart yesterday in both styles. I picked up 1 with, and 1 without the rubber inserts. Nice little lights."_
> 
> Thanks Nebula -
> 
> ...


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## voodoogreg (Dec 4, 2006)

As to the newest incarnation with the knurling, would anyone that has both,
say it has more spill or similar to an old inova X1? If some what more i wouldn't mind picking one up. VDG


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## UnknownVT (Dec 4, 2006)

*voodoogreg* wrote: _"As to the newest incarnation with the knurling, would anyone that has both,_
_say it has more spill or similar to an old inova X1? If some what more i wouldn't mind picking one up. VDG"_

Please take a look at this thread for lots of discussion about the newest version with knurling (withOUT rubber inserts) -

a New Dorcy 1AAA?

strictly speaking this is a different model - Dorcy model # 41-4222
whereas the regular model with rubber inserts is model # 41-4234.

Please see these Dorcy web pages -

41-4234 

41-4222 

As for the "spill" and spots - the newer 41-4222 without rubber inserts has the same sized spot as the gen3 lensed/spot 41-4234 regular Dorcy 1AAA with rubber inserts. But the 41-4222 (without rubber inserts) is brighter so one tends to see more on the periphery indoors.

Both have a spot that is substantially larger than the Inova X1's very tight spot - please see this thread for a direct comparison between the X1 and a gen3.....

Inova X1 Spot - White 

and in Post #*7* for some diameter measurements and an experiment to see what these were like when I moved the Dorcy 1AAA gen3 closer to get the same sized spot....

For review of the "new" 41-4222 Dorcy 1AAA with knurling and withOUT rubber inserts please see -

a New Dorcy 1AAA


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## UnknownVT (Dec 4, 2006)

*Nebula* wrote: _"I checked my package against your post #59. I have the older packaging, but the light looks like the versions shown in the newer packaging, i.e., knurl rather than rubber. Looks like Dorcy is saving some coin by using the older packaging. Hope this helps. Kirk"_

Kirk,

I think this is more likely a mistake - that the knurl version without inserts (model # 41-4222) is in the wrong packaging (for the 41-4234).

As Dorcy's web site clearly shows the correct packaging on their page 41-4222 .

So it may be that these were "unintentional" stock and WalMart have not decided yet to stock the model 41-4222.

My advice to those who want a 41-4222 is to buy it as soon as you see it at WalMart - especially if it's in the wrong packaging - because we don't know if they are officially going to stock them.

And if anyone sees this model 41-4222 in its correct packaging at WalMart - please let us know ASAP - as this would indicate that WalMart will indeed carry that version......

For a lot more discussion about the newer model 41-4222 (knurl without inserts) please see -

a New Dorcy 1AAA? 

and my revuew -

a New Dorcy 1AAA


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## voodoogreg (Dec 4, 2006)

UnknownVT said:


> *voodoogreg* wrote: _"As to the newest incarnation with the knurling, would anyone that has both,_
> _say it has more spill or similar to an old inova X1? If some what more i wouldn't mind picking one up. VDG"_
> 
> Please take a look at this thread for lots of discussion about the newest version with knurling (withOUT rubber inserts) -
> ...



Thanks VT! I check'em out. VDG


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## danielo_d (Dec 6, 2006)

OK guys, I have been looking at the local Walmart and Target for the new fancy colored Dorcy's. [1AAA]
No luck. 
On a whim, went to the KMart and they had a coupla gen2's. I was tempted, but decided against getting any. Also, they were $7.99 before tax.

I looked further and saw they had a few of the 1AA models. [$14.99] I had a couple I bought from Target for $9.99. I thought no biggie.
Upon closer inspection, one of the four they had was actually different.
It had a magnifying lens under under it, I can barely make out 1 LED.
Looked at the packaging. It had all the same info as the 1AA by 3 LED packaging. Looked at the UPC Code, same number. Looked at the Model number, same model number. Hmmmm. [no mention of it on their website. http://www.dorcy.com/products.aspx?p=414239  ]
Just thought I'd mention it. 

Sorry, back on topic. I'm still on the lookout for the new 1AAA Dorcy. Like the knurling over the rubber inserts. I always wear out the inserts to the point of them sliding off. 
Danno


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## oregon (Dec 6, 2006)

Dan,

You can get the new Dorcy 1AAA, knurled, here at QVC (I got a bunch, saved on the shipping, and gave them as Thanksgiving presents to the delight of all recipients): http://www.qvc.com/qic/qvcapp.aspx?app=detail&params=item^V24371

However, WalMom crawling for them is more fun. They are as rare as hen's teeth.

The Dorcy 1AA also has a three led model. It is the same size as the reflector model. It is not very bright with a purple center spot. Like its size though. 

All the best,

oregon


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## UnknownVT (Dec 9, 2006)

*revolvergeek* wrote: _"I picked up two new Dorcy AAAs last night at Walmart. Optics, normal style bodies, but in pink and lavander/purple. They also had them in a sort of champagne color that had not seen there before."_

To help shorten my hunt for newer colors of Dorcy 1AAA standard model 41-4234 - revolvergeek very kindly sent me his two..... 
Thanks very much revolvergeek!

Still in their sealed package -





but not for long....





heads -





... and after all revolvergeek's kindness and consideration of getting these to me - I have a tale of woe.......

The salmon (ok, it's Pink) colored one did not work - 
I checked the battery and all the electrical connections - it's the just the LED and circuit assembly - as I swapped the LED units and the other (purple) one worked and the pink LED unit still did not work in the purple body....

I was still going to take some beamshots of the one that worked - but that all of a sudden stopped working too - literally from a quick switch on, off then back to on and the light no longer worked.

Of course I tried both these non-functioning LED units in other Dorcy 1AAA bodies and they did not work.

(the only slight hint was the initial battery voltage measured like 1.617V open-circuit which may have been too high and blew the LED ? or circuit? - that would make this real touchy and may mean lithium AAA's may be a no-no for the light....)

and then, and then ......

eh-eh, along came...... 
Jones, slow talking Jones (sorry, got carried away there



)

You're not going to believe this department - 
one of the LED units is working again.

I can only assume (I'm not sure) it's the one out of the purple.

I thought about the high voltage of the supplied alkaline and thought that a nearly depleted NiMH at 1.2V might work - like I've managed to get coin-cell white LED lights that have strobed to work at half the voltage (ie: single 2032 or 2016) - and sure enough one of the LED units worked again 
so I put a regular but used alkaline back in and that worked.
and even put the new only slightly used alkaline now reading at 1.59V in and that worked too......and it has continued to work fine since.

I thought this was worth reporting to CPF - in case some may run into problems......

OK was there any material difference between the LED modules between the two?

At first glance or even close examination they simply looked like the regular gen3 LED modules -
from the pink and purple Dorcy 1AAA




Here are the circuits from the 3 generations for comparison -








Some of you actually following this - are probably wondering why I hadn't shown the other side of the circuit boards....




it's like one of those spot the difference puzzles.....

I _*don't*_ know whether mounting these two components the other way round makes any difference - but that is the difference and the highlighted unit was the DOA.

Here's a clearer shot of my older regular gen3 circuit to compare -




notice the rev2 marking on the pcb and the different markings for the "621" component (it's "129" on these newer pink and purple colors) -

However also look at the new model #41-4222 - knurl only no rubber insert version (review at a New Dorcy 1AAA link)-




the same newer Rev3 but the "621" instead of "129".

That's all I can gather so far...

So at last what are these newer colors like - are they/it just the same as my older gen3 lensed/spot?

Not quite -







the newer colors with the rev3 circuit are brighter than the older gen3 (rev2 pcb)

vs. new model #41-4222 knurled no inserts 







the 41-4222 seems brighter in the full exposure shot - but the -2 stops Underexposed shot shows that is not the case.... I think it's because of the better tint of the new model 41-4222......

So it looks like Dorcy may have "upgraded" the Dorcy 1AAA's gen3 to a brighter version -perhaps we should call this a gen4? - for now the newer colors distinguish these - but I suspect the regular colors are probably also gen4.... 
Hint: look for the AAA battery dated 2013........

Just a note - so why is the cross in the middle of my comparison beamshots so big here? -
Simple, as I zoomed in the lens to frame the beams better - 
my regular standard shot would have been like -




I could have also cropped my beamshots to get the same results but I prefered to zoom to get the shot as I wanted it.....

Thanks again revolvergeek for your kindness of getting these to me -
as you see as it is - it's given me a lot to write about.......


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## Doug S (Dec 9, 2006)

Hi Vincent! It is an odd coincidence that you just posted the better pictures of the newer circuit. Just earlier today I was looking at the earlier photos of the new circuit to see if I could figure it out based on photos alone. I couldn't since the components may be hiding vias connecting the two sides of the board. I'm not sure if I am curious enough to spend the $6 to find out. As you may recall, a few years back I extensively tested the first two versions of the circuit. I can clarify one thing you are wondering about. The 103 and 621 devices are simply resistors, 10000 and 620 ohms respectively, and it doesn't matter which direction they are mounted. As to your experience of not working then working, I don't think it was a battery voltage issue. Instead, I would suspect a bad solder joint or intermitant component. The act of handling fixed (possibly temporarily) the problem. 
Like you, I still have a fondness for this cheap little light. The Gen I was the best IMHO. I still have a spare Gen I around that I hope to stuff a Cree XR-E into someday. Talk about making a sow's ear into a silk purse!


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## UnknownVT (Dec 9, 2006)

Many thanks Doug for all the good information.

I went to my local WalMart and lo-&-behold - the newer colors 41-4234 with rubber inserts.

This is the complete set of colors for the model 41-4234 that I know of -




remember the knurled version without the rubber inserts is designated by Dorcy with another model #41-4222 - so strictly speaking it's another/different model - even if all the other parts appear to be the same/similar.....

The current commonly available colors are red, blue, sliver(matte) and these newer purple, salmon/pink and paler gold (contrast the color between the gen1 "gold" and the new 41-4222 champagne and still looks more like silver to me....)

Here are the heads to show the different generations -





Notice I am tentatively calling the newer colored ones *gen4*(?) - 
because of the brighter performance.

But I think the other Dorcy 1AAAs at WalMart are also very probably the newer gen4(?) as long as the AAA battery is dated 2013 or later - as I also bought another of the standard colors but with an AAA that's 2013.

It's not worth taking another beamshot - as the beams of the two Dorcy 1AAAs I just got newer pale gold and standard color - both gave a beam that was very similar to that of the purple tested above - same brightness level - however the tints were less brown - but not quite as good as the new 41-4222 (knurl version no inserts)

*Doug S* wrote: _"As to your experience of not working then working, I don't think it was a battery voltage issue. Instead, I would suspect a bad solder joint or intermitant component. The act of handling fixed (possibly temporarily) the problem."_

I think you're probably right - when I first got the two most recent Dorcy 1AAAs - one of them was *also DOA!* - but by swapping the LED modules around - I manage to get it to work....

Just now as I was writing all this - that module all of a sudden stopped working - noting your post about bad solder joint or intermittent component - I went and handled that module a bit more, in terms of gently twisting the board, and tapping on the solder joints - then used my nearly depleted NiMH - it then worked after a bit more handling, and continues to work with the fresh battery....

I have also tried handling the original (pink) DOA LED module - but it continues not to work - so I think it is really dead......

However since I have experienced one dead and two intermittent (all in the newer colors purple, pink and pale gold) - Dorcy may have a *quality issue* with the current batch of gen4(?) 41-4234 newer colors?
(note all the solder joints do at least look good).

I actually like the rubber inserts and will probably EDC this newer pale gold colored one - although I don't like the thought that the current batch of LED modules might NOT be reliable - 

CPF please note - 
and please post if you find any that are either DOA or intermittent......


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## stonehold (Dec 10, 2006)

I came across the Dorcy r3 1xAAA at Walmart a few days ago for $6.42 total. The spot is very similar to the Garrity 3xAAA K009. The Garrity spot is smaller and brighter but not quite as clean. It's a great leash light though I don't use it much since my L2T arrived. I agree with your observaton about definition. When I first turned the Garrity on a couple of years ago I thought it was almost cartoon like in shape and clarity, and the little Dorcy is the only light I've found to give the same impression. It's almost spooky in pitch darkness to see it bore a hole in the dark.


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## LEDninja (Dec 10, 2006)

I have a Gen 3 optic head on a Gen 2 body with the more powerful boost circuit. The spot went from a wimpy gray to a useful white.
I used up my gen 3 body for my skinny Dorcy mod #2. The base of the PR2 bulb is closer in length to the short gen 3 board than the gen 1 or 2 ones.
*my Skinny Dorcy AAA #2*
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=138872


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## Doug S (Dec 14, 2006)

UnknownVT said:


> Notice I am tentatively calling the newer colored ones *gen4*(?) -
> because of the brighter performance.


 Vincent, I think that your Gen III and 4 are actually the same. 
I picked up a Gen III a few days ago to have a look at the circuit. The circuit is a different design approach vs the Gens I and II. The current draw and efficiency of the Gen III design would be more subject to normal variations in parameters of several of the components used. This, along with the general increase in the efficiency of available LEDs likely is the reason your more recently acquired Gen III is brighter. Too bad about the recent quality issues. Over the years I bought a number of Gen I and never had a DOA. At least Walmart has an excellent return policy. One good news, from the look of the Gen III circuit, there is the possibility of a relatively easy mod (assuming that you find soldering small SMT components to be easy) that would greatly increase light output with little or no increase in battery draw.


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## UnknownVT (Dec 14, 2006)

*Doug S* wrote: _"Vincent, I think that your Gen III and 4 are actually the same. _
_I picked up a Gen III a few days ago to have a look at the circuit. The circuit is a different design approach vs the Gens I and II. The current draw and efficiency of the Gen III design would be more subject to normal variations in parameters of several of the components used. This, along with the general increase in the efficiency of available LEDs likely is the reason your more recently acquired Gen III is brighter. "_

Many thanks Doug once again for the valuable input.

I'd agree that the circuits of the gen3 and the "tentatively" gen4(?) are the same (different revisions) (and I am embarrassed to confess that I didn't recognize that "621" is "129" and "E01" is "103" - just upsidedown....




) - 
and it's probably the better LEDs that make my most recent acquisions brighter - and they are, all three samples (4 if we also count the 41-4222 knurl no-insert version) are about the same, and visibly brighter than the older gen3.

That's why I suggest that it really should be a gen4 - 
since they are using a "better"/brighter LED - which is both a material and worthwhile improvement. 
Just as gen1 and gen2 were only distinguished by external cosmetic changes - but their circuits and LEDs were the same and interchangeable.....

*Doug S* wrote: _"there is the possibility of a relatively easy mod (assuming that you find soldering small SMT components to be easy) that would greatly increase light output with little or no increase in battery draw."_

Do please tell.


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## Ken 222 (Dec 15, 2006)

Thanks for all the info Vincent. I really like these little lights and I have bought just about every reflectored one I could find. 

Since you wondered if other people have had a DOA right out of the package, I have to say yes. The other day I bought the newer gold one, second from the left in post #79, even though I knew it would have the round beam. I got it because I liked the way it looked. Anyway, it was dead so I took it apart several times and also tried a tail cap from another one. So when I was ready to give up I picked up a Duracell AAA that was sitting here, tried it, and the light worked. I put the energizer AAA in another Dorcy and it's fine. Wtf again! I had tried tapping the light against the heel of my hand each time I put it back together but not one blink. It will not work with the cell that came in the package but I don't know why. Also the rubber ring on the head stretches easier and would prolly come off easier than the 2nd generation lights. 
That's prolly the last one for me. I'll just get 'em through B/S/T when I can find an older one.

Ken


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## UnknownVT (Dec 15, 2006)

*Ken 222* wrote: _"Since you wondered if other people have had a DOA right out of the package, I have to say yes. The other day I bought the newer gold one, second from the left in post #79, even though I knew it would have the round beam. I got it because I liked the way it looked. Anyway, it was dead so I took it apart several times and also tried a tail cap from another one. So when I was ready to give up I picked up a Duracell AAA that was sitting here, tried it, and the light worked. I put the energizer AAA in another Dorcy and it's fine. Wtf again! I had tried tapping the light against the heel of my hand each time I put it back together but not one blink. It will not work with the cell that came in the package but I don't know why."_

Ken - Many thanks for your input.

Sounds like my experience with two of these newer body color ones - except my 2 did eventually work with the batteries that came with the light.

DougS's suggestion in Post #*78* above that it is more likely bad solder joint or intermittent component - seems to make sense. 
But with your input - there may be something - a mystery? - why the lights did not work with the supplied fresh batteries and seem to start working when a more used or lower voltage NiMH are tried...... may be mere coinicidence - but this is now 3 cases - and like other posts - I had never had a Dorcy 1AAA DoA - until my 3 in a row - seems pretty _UN_lucky to be "coincidence".

*Ken 222* wrote: _"Also the rubber ring on the head stretches easier and would prolly come off easier than the 2nd generation lights."_ 

Thanks for mentioning that - I had noticed this as well - but hadn't tried the gen2 or gen1 to compare - now that I have - the head insert/band is indeed more stretchy than the previous versions - so far it has not presented a problem as I have been EDC'ing the new gold colored one that you referred to.


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## UnknownVT (Dec 15, 2006)

Post deleted.

Oooops - sorry an inadvertant DOUBLE post - 
due to posting when I got a server too busy notice.

Sorry.


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## Doug S (Dec 15, 2006)

UnknownVT said:


> *Doug S* wrote: _"there is the possibility of a relatively easy mod (assuming that you find soldering small SMT components to be easy) that would greatly increase light output with little or no increase in battery draw."_
> 
> Do please tell.



Vincent: PM incoming


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## bizzybody (Dec 15, 2006)

I'd have to check again to see if they're still there, but last time I wasn in one of the three hardware stores in town, there were three gen 1 reflector Dorcy's on the peg, behind three of the first version with the lens.

$5.99 each.


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## UnknownVT (Dec 16, 2006)

*bizzybody* wrote: _"I'd have to check again to see if they're still there, but last time I wasn in one of the three hardware stores in town, there were three gen 1 reflector Dorcy's on the peg, behind three of the first version with the lens._
_$5.99 each."_

Reflectored versions are now sought after by some people -
but the original gen1's are now pretty rare..... 
there is only really a cosmetic difference between that and the gen2 - which also had the reflector.

The descriptions are in Post #*56* previously -
_"The original gen 1 Dorcy 1AAA had parallel ribbing on the rubber inserts, and Dorcy printed in white on the body tube._
_Gen 2 - changed to diamond shaped texturing on the inserts._ (without Dorcy printed on body tube)
_Gen 3 - changed to the lens/spot beam."_


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## bizzybody (Dec 16, 2006)

OK, they're Gen 2 and 3 with the diamond pattern rubber sleeve on both the reflector and lens versions.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Dec 17, 2006)

We had to do our weekly household pilgramidge to Walmart, so I picked up a silver Gen 3 as I have a gutted Gen 1 with a good head.

I put the battery in the Gen 3 first to try it out. The moonbeam doesn't hoover as bad as some moonbeams. But this one is not uniformly bright. It's dimmer on one side.

SO... I tried the moombean head on a different Gen1.... VOILA! It's light years better than the Gen 3!

The Gen 3 responded well to the Gen 1 head too. A Gen 1 and a Gen 3, both with reflector heads are about the same brightness.

One other thing worthy of note! The Gen 3 with a Gen 1 head is about 3/8" shorter than the Gen 1 with Gen 3 head. It's about 1/4" shorter if both have reflector head on 'em.

I'm gonna leave my purple Gen 1 set up with a silver Gen 3 head and silver tailcap.

And the Gen 3 with the shorter Gen 1 head looks GREAT! Way better proportinally than the Gen 1!


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## Doug S (Jan 8, 2007)

UnknownVT said:


> *Ken 222* wrote: _"Since you wondered if other people have had a DOA right out of the package, I have to say yes. The other day I bought the newer gold one, second from the left in post #79, even though I knew it would have the round beam. I got it because I liked the way it looked. Anyway, it was dead so I took it apart several times and also tried a tail cap from another one. So when I was ready to give up I picked up a Duracell AAA that was sitting here, tried it, and the light worked. I put the energizer AAA in another Dorcy and it's fine. Wtf again! I had tried tapping the light against the heel of my hand each time I put it back together but not one blink. It will not work with the cell that came in the package but I don't know why."_
> 
> Ken - Many thanks for your input.
> 
> ...



I am now in possession of the two GEN III lights of Vincent's that exhibited intermittant operation. I found the problem and the fix was easy. On one, the brass eyelet that is on the end of the circuit board to serve as the positive cell contact had a bad solder joint. I was able to pull the eyelet off of the board with minimal effort. On the other light, the problem was at the same location except on this one they forgot to solder the eyelet at all. Based on this sample of two, I would suggest that anyone with one that is DOA or intermittant, check this location first.
BTW, Vincent's two lights are on loan to me so that I can implement a couple of modifications to the stock circuit to enhance performance. I have been working out the design details on a couple of sacrificial units and once perfected I will implement on Vincent's pair. So far, I can say that these mods really rock! Per Vincent's request, I will not shorten the runtime of his units. Increase in output is amazing. Now that I have worked with the stock circuit a bit I can say that this circuit and board are really "mod friendly" for those who are inclined to fiddle with the electrical bits. I now have about 5 ways this light can be modified to enhance performance. The complexity of these mods ranges from adding 2 components and changing the values of two others all the way to adding 9 components and changing the values of three others. The stock board has six components excluding the LED. 
Vincent and I will be posting details in the future.


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## thunderlight (Jan 9, 2007)

I have gen 3 lensed dorcys in the older colors and gen 3 lensed dorcys in the new gold and purple colors. The newer gen 3 dorcys in the newer colors are significantly brighter. I performed a "sophisticated" eyeball test with identical batteries. Presumably, the newer gen 3s have newer brighter leds vs. the older gen 3s. 

In fact, I like these new dorcys better than the reflectorized gen 2s. I believe that the quality of the light output is better, although they may not be brighter overall than the gen 2s.


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## Ken 222 (Jan 9, 2007)

Doug and Vincent,

That's great. It sounds like we could have more fun with these little lights. Hopefully there's something a ham-fisted guy like me can try with a tiny circuit board. :laughing: 
Ya might consider starting a new thread for the mods. 
Doug, if it would help, pm me and I can send you a couple stock Dorcy 1AAAs to use for testing.

Ken


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## Ken 222 (Jan 9, 2007)

thunderlight,

Just so I don't get more confused, are the lights you have the new model #4222 with the checkering on the body? Those are supposed to have a Nichia LED in them. Or do they have the rubber sleeve on the body and the rubber ring on the head? Thanks.

Ken


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## mdocod (Jan 9, 2007)

thank you TooManyGizmos... I just removed my annoying lens from my new gen3 using something close to your technique.. (didn't want to go out to the garage, so I pounded it out with the backside of a pen holding it in my hand...)... crude, but effective, didn't even have to get up out of my chair. I'm now enjoying my new dorcy much more... I like spill, and totally hate optics. I agree they produce that "definition" that' being discussed a lot... but I still hate it... My favorite lights are My Luxeon 5W and Surefire P91 lamps.. both have WIDE hotspots with STRONG stillbeams... lenses don't give me enough information about what is around me.. which is the whole reason I was using the flashlight in the first place....

I'm not scared of the dark... I'm scared of what I can't see in the dark, lol.


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## Doug S (Jan 9, 2007)

Ken 222 said:


> Doug and Vincent,
> 
> *That's great. It sounds like we could have more fun with these little lights. Hopefully there's something a ham-fisted guy like me can try with a tiny circuit board. :laughing:
> Ya might consider starting a new thread for the mods.*
> Ken



Ken, success would definitely depend a bit on your level of ham-fistedness as well as your eyesight. I have actually been considering doing what you have just suggested. I don't know the level of interest though. If you aspire to fiddle with the electrical bits of any modern electronics you have to face the reality that the future is all those tiny SMT parts. I have been thinking that these $6 Dorcys are an ideal practice item to develop some SMT assembly skills. If you fail, you haven't lost much $, if you succeed, for a few$ in parts you can get the satisfaction of a big increase in performance. Since shipping and minimum order charges can be portionately high when buying just a couple of bucks of parts, if there is sufficient interest, say 10 folks or so, I could buy the parts in one order, repackage in ''kits'' and pay the shipping to those interested for significantly less that just the shipping and minimum order fee from DigiKey, my normal parts supplier.



Ken 222 said:


> *Doug, if it would help, pm me and I can send you a couple stock Dorcy 1AAAs to use for testing.*
> 
> Ken


Ken, thanks for the offer but I think I'm set for now. I just made a trip to Wally World yesterday to buy one more test mule before tearing into Vincent's two.


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## Doug S (Jan 9, 2007)

mdocod said:


> thank you TooManyGizmos... I just removed my annoying lens from my new gen3 using something close to your technique.. (didn't want to go out to the garage, so I pounded it out with the backside of a pen holding it in my hand...)... crude, but effective, didn't even have to get up out of my chair. I'm now enjoying my new dorcy much more... I like spill, and totally hate optics.



If anyone else hates the new optics and longs for the reflector version, I have a few reflector heads around in various colors that I can swap for your optics heads. Pm me if you care to do a swap.


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## vetkaw63 (Jan 9, 2007)

Doug S,
I would be in on a group buy if it were offered. I put a Cree XRE in two of mine. They are amazing in a Litium Ion. A little weak on a nimh. If I upped the current, I could go back to the nimh.
Feel free to PM.
Mike


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## thunderlight (Jan 9, 2007)

Hi Ken 222,

The new gen 3s I was referring to were the rubber sleeved models, NOT the knurled models.


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## Ken 222 (Jan 9, 2007)

thunderlight said:


> Hi Ken 222,
> 
> The new gen 3s I was referring to were the rubber sleeved models, NOT the knurled models.


 
Ok, thanks. I just have one but when I compared it to a reflectored model with the original LED I thought they were the same brightness. I took the head off both and then stuck the board and the little collar back in until it made contact and shown (shined?) them on the wall. High-tech testing.  

I'm not sure what Doug S has up his sleeve but maybe there are some tricks that will work to wake up any of the circuit boards Vincent has posted around CPF. I've tried 3 different 5mm LEDs from the Sandwich Shoppe and that is fun. Looking forward to more info from him.

Ken


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## Doug S (Jan 9, 2007)

Ken 222 said:


> I'm not sure what Doug S has up his sleeve but maybe there are some tricks that will work to wake up any of the circuit boards Vincent has posted around CPF. Ken



Ken, what I will be doing is only applicable to the newer boards Vincent has pictured that have the Brass Eyelet positive cell contact rather than the spring that is on the earlier boards. 
I can say, the mods are Strong Coffee indeed!


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## frasera (Jan 11, 2007)

interesting, my wallyworld mccarthy ranch location only has gen 3 i don't like the rubber bits. are gen 4 going for the same price?

but i did compare it with the maglite 1aaa, now if only maglite made an led version!! its so much smaller and sleeker! perfect for pocket. 

coast also seems to have a lot of small lights, but they use button batteries, how are those? might not be too expensive to feed if one buys bulk button batteries online i guess


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## UnknownVT (Jan 11, 2007)

*Doug S* wrote: _"If anyone else hates the new optics and longs for the reflector version, I have a few reflector heads around in various colors that I can swap for your optics heads. Pm me if you care to do a swap."_

Many thanks DougS for all the updates - I'm now back with normal access to CPF.

Just a small point - while away I had been EDC'ing the new champane gold "gen4" - with rubber inserts - and found I really liked it - 

Specifically I liked the very even lighting in the spot - so inevitably I seem to see more clearly sharply over any conventional reflectored light of almost any brightness - but please remember I am talking about using the Dorcy 1AAA at personal task distances.

I do realize that shining the light "generally" around a room that it may seem the spot would limit one's vision of the surrounding areas outside of the spot....

and although there isn't much side-spill the speak of - the brighter level of these "gen4" - give enough reflections indoors that the surrounding areas outside of the spot are not in total darkness - and I could see easily around an average sized room.

The spot itself is not that narrow either - as a practical test - I held the light normally at hip height (about 33") - and shone the light about 4 feet in front of me - the horizontal diameter was about 2ft and the longitudinal diameter was about 3ft - so the circle of light is not that small - and plenty to see by - certainly indoors - especially since there is a fair bit of reflected light.

(and this the reason I still persist in calling these gen4 - since the circuit may be the same as the gen3 - the LED is definitely *brighter* - see the comparison beamshots earlier in this thread post #*77* - I have now had 3 of these newer gen4's as well as a 41-4222 - the one without the rubber inserts - to compare to previous generations 1,2 and 3 - and these gen4's are definitely brighter. Please also see some reasoning for calling these gen4 in post #*79* and #*83*)

I also like the fact that the gen3/4 board draws only about 140-150mA vs. the 280-300mA of the gen1/2 board - about 1/2 the current (see post #*57*) - and since the gen1/2 Dorcy 1AAA tested runtimes were just under 4 hours to 50% - I would guess/extrapolated that these gen3/4 would probably be around 6-7 hours? - this is pretty good, if this guesstimate is correct.....

and I am very excited that DougS says he's managed to get even more brightness with little or no detriment in the runtimes.......
and really look forward to doing some comparisons with the mod'ed lights -

thanks Doug for doing all the work.


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## Doug S (Jan 11, 2007)

UnknownVT said:


> *Doug S* wrote: _"If anyone else hates the new optics and longs for the reflector version, I have a few reflector heads around in various colors that I can swap for your optics heads. Pm me if you care to do a swap." _
> 
> Specifically I liked the very even lighting in the spot - so inevitably I seem to see more clearly sharply over any conventional reflectored light of almost any brightness - but please remember I am talking about using the Dorcy 1AAA at personal task distances.



Just to be clear, I've come around to really liking the new optics versions too; hence my offer to swap some of *my reflector * heads for optics heads if anyone does not agree with our preference for the optics. 

BTW, I have completed the mods on both of your lights. I think you will especially like what I've done with the purple one. More light and more runtime. Big changes to both. It will still be another day or two until I will ship back to you. I want to do a third light which I want to also ship to you to add to your comparisons [I'll want the third on back eventually].


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## UnknownVT (Jan 11, 2007)

*Doug S* wrote: _"Just to be clear, I've come around to really liking the new optics versions too; hence my offer to swap some of *my reflector *heads for optics heads if anyone does not agree with our preference for the optics. _

_BTW, I have completed the mods on both of your lights. I think you will especially like what I've done with the purple one. More light and more runtime. Big changes to both. It will still be another day or two until I will ship back to you. I want to do a third light which I want to also ship to you to add to your comparisons [I'll want the third on back eventually]."_

Thanks for the quick response Doug.

Glad that another experienced CPF'er confirms this spot thing on the Dorcy 1AAA - even at this gen4 level (and the 41-4222 knurled version) I am finding this is a really good light - specifically because of the large'ish spot and adequate brightness - 
the previous gen3 (also spot) didn't quite do it for me - even though I had recognized the sharper view in the even spot - but it was just a bit too dim (for me) - whereas the increase in brightness in the gen4 made everything just about right - for me - and don't forget like most people I had to overcome my initial prejudice/bias against spot beams......

All of your mods sound really good and I really look forward to trying them out - this may turn out to be a real world-class light......... for very little money.

This may be a good example of an exception to the commonly quoted - 
"you get what you pay for".....

I know there were some early problems with the Dorcy 1AAA, and even now there may be bad and no solder problems on the brass cup contact - but this little light is now a classic and the current manifestation at the gen4 level is turning out to be a great little light - well worth considering again.....

....a classic.


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## Robocop (Jan 13, 2007)

This thread has sparked my interest back towards these Dorcy circuits and I now have a few of the newest circuit boards to play with.....

I do recall removing the single resistor from the older circuits with a little improvement however this newest circuit looks like it has 2 resistors now. Can anyone explain if this is correct and if so what is the benefit in using 2 resistors. I am debating removing them just to see if the circuit will even work without them and if it does just how much more power this circuit will pull.

For all I know they may not even be resistors however they do look like it and both are labeled as 103 and 621


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## Doug S (Jan 15, 2007)

Robocop said:


> This thread has sparked my interest back towards these Dorcy circuits and I now have a few of the newest circuit boards to play with.....
> 
> I do recall removing the single resistor from the older circuits with a little improvement however this newest circuit looks like it has 2 resistors now. Can anyone explain if this is correct and if so what is the benefit in using 2 resistors. I am debating removing them just to see if the circuit will even work without them and if it does just how much more power this circuit will pull.
> 
> For all I know they may not even be resistors however they do look like it and both are labeled as 103 and 621



I'll explain the workings of this circuit at a later date. Do not remove either resistor. The stock LED is already driven fairly hard with a fresh cell. If you wish to drive harder, however, you can reduce the value to the 620 ohm one a bit [that is the one labeled 621, read this as 62 plus 1 zero, the other one (103) is 10 plus 3 zeros or 10000 ohm. leave that one alone]. At a further date I will post some much better ways to improve this circuit.


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## Robocop (Jan 17, 2007)

glad you got back to me on this as my plan was to simply bypass both resistors and see what happened when running without ant resistors at all.......keeping my eyse posted for further information.


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## vetkaw63 (Jan 17, 2007)

These boards are running the led fairly hard? I thought these boards only pushed about 20 miliamps? Am I wrong? I have installed an xre emmitter in two of mine and I would like to push about 350 miliamps with a nimh. is this reasonably possible?
Thanks,
Mike


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## vetkaw63 (Jan 17, 2007)

These boards are running the led fairly hard? I thought these boards only pushed about 20 miliamps? Am I wrong? I have installed an xre emmitter in two of mine and I would like to push about 350 miliamps with a nimh. Is this reasonably possible?
Thanks,
Mike


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## Doug S (Jan 17, 2007)

vetkaw63 said:


> These boards are running the led fairly hard? I thought these boards only pushed about 20 miliamps? Am I wrong? I have installed an xre emmitter in two of mine and I would like to push about 350 miliamps with a nimh. is this reasonably possible?
> Thanks,
> Mike


Mike, I have recently made some detailed measurements on three of these units as a ''pre mod characterization'' before implementing various enhancement mods. In a sample of three there was a range of variation of about 20% in the input power at typical NiMh input voltage. In the case of your Cree XR-E mods the emitter will be receiving an *average* current of around 40mA but it is receiving that current in pulses with peaks of up to 500mA and decaying to zero. Obviously to get an average of 40mA, most of the time the emitter is receiving zero current. Switching frequency is around 60 kHz. You can increase your average current by decreasing the 620 ohm resistor a bit but you cannot go too far before efficiency really drops due to limitations of other components on the board. If you don't change any of the other components I would not go below 470 ohms. If you also change out the inductor with one of the 22uH ones from a Dorcy Gen I or II board you may be able to go as low as 330 ohms before efficiency really goes South. If you are willing to be patient, I will eventually be posting some detailed instructions for *really* putting this circuit on steroids. We might be able to reach your 350mA into a XR-E objective if we can find the right inductor to fit in the available space.


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## Doug S (Jan 17, 2007)

Robocop said:


> glad you got back to me on this as my plan was to simply bypass both resistors and see what happened when running without ant resistors at all.......keeping my eyse posted for further information.


I can save you the trouble of trying this. The magic smoke will be released from both of the transistors on the board


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## vinsanity286 (Jan 17, 2007)

Just picked one up from walmart. It is blue and has the newer rev. 3 board. When I first turned it on I was a bit dissapointed that it wasn't as bright as my coast mini tac. So I threw in 3 1/3 aaa's and it was much brighter but turned very green:huh2:. I figured it was too much votage so I took one cell out and put in a tinfoil spacer. The light was white again and was now very close to as bright as my coast mini tac. 

Please do post a little tuturial on how to put this circuit on steroids, I really want to put a cree in this thing.


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## vetkaw63 (Jan 18, 2007)

vinsanity286 said:


> Just picked one up from walmart. It is blue and has the newer rev. 3 board. When I first turned it on I was a bit dissapointed that it wasn't as bright as my coast mini tac. So I threw in 3 1/3 aaa's and it was much brighter but turned very green:huh2:. I figured it was too much votage so I took one cell out and put in a tinfoil spacer. The light was white again and was now very close to as bright as my coast mini tac.
> 
> Please do post a little tuturial on how to put this circuit on steroids, I really want to put a cree in this thing.




If your talking about the Dorcy 1AAA, put the cree in and run a lithium ion. It is very bright. It doesn't run very long though. Thats why I want to use a nimh.
Mike


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## Doug S (Jan 18, 2007)

vetkaw63 said:


> If your talking about the Dorcy 1AAA, put the cree in and run a lithium ion. It is very bright. It doesn't run very long though. Thats why I want to use a nimh.
> Mike



Adding a Cree XR-E certainly will gain a lot in output. I would rate this as the most result for the least effort you can do on this light. The Dorcy Gen III optic is a good match for the XR-E without any modification. It does very much change the beam profile but in a way that you may like. A caveat about Mike's suggestion about the Li-ion. Any light that was designed to run on a single alkaline cell such as the Dorcy is, can over discharge and damage an unprotected Li-ion cell. I believe that all available AAA [10440] size li-ion cells are unprotected. 
FWIW, I have been considering starting/organizing a couple of threads in the Electronics and Homebuilt sub forums that will be essentially tutorials on getting started in doing modifications using those tiny surface mount components. I think many folks haven't tried working with those SMT devices because they are intimadated by the size. With a little practice, it can be done by hand. Since the Dorcy is cheap and the circuit board relatively large with lots of space between components, I was thinking that this would be the ideal project board for this tutorial. I have a number of useful ways in which this board can be modified. If there is sufficient interest I could include a design which converts the Dorcy board to a constant current driver for use with Li-ion cells and protects the cells against overdischarge. 
I have no idea what level of interest there would be in this. It will be a bit of work on my part so I am disinclined to proceed unless there is sufficient interest. I'll likely make an ''EOI'' expression of interest post in one of those forums in a few weeks. I'll wait until after Vincent has had a chance to report on his evaluation of three of these mods that I have done and those lights are now enroute to him.


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## vinsanity286 (Jan 18, 2007)

If you put an xr-e in the dorcy with no board modifications, would it draw more current than the original led both on nimh? 

I am certainly intested in making this board current regulated, but could you make it work with one nimh aaa? Also could you possibly pm me with the mods you did to vincent's board? Thanks for your time.


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## Doug S (Jan 18, 2007)

vinsanity286 said:


> *If you put an xr-e in the dorcy with no board modifications, would it draw more current than the original led both on nimh?*



Change in current, if any, would be very small. 



vinsanity286 said:


> *I am certainly intested in making this board current regulated, but could you make it work with one nimh aaa? Also could you possibly pm me with the mods you did to vincent's board? Thanks for your time.*



I don't have a way of making the board truly current regulated on an alkaline or NiMh cell but I am working on a means to flatten the discharge curve a bit. In the case of using NiMh, these cells have a sufficiently flat voltage discharge curve that the light output curve will be pretty flat even in its unmodified state. 
No to your PM request. It will take a bit of time to put together a good explaination. As soon as I do so, I will post.


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## Robocop (Jan 18, 2007)

Thanks for the heads up DougS as I would hate to waste this circuit just experimenting......It appears that this circuit must be very different from the original Dorcy Board as I recall removing the resistor was a very popular mod for that circuit.

On a side not what are the transistors used for on a circuit and why would they blow if ran without a resistor?.....could I bypass just one resistor and get away with it?

Is there any way anyone could label this circuit showing what each component is called just so I know what parts are what?

Thanks for all the hard work DougS and maybe when it is all finished I may actually learn something about these circuits....I am always quick to just jump in messing things up before I know any specific workings of a circuit.


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## Nebula (Jan 18, 2007)

Sorry if this has already been posted elsewhere, but I just checked the Dorcy website and it looks like our little 1xAAA light is going to be joined by a whole host of new Dorcy products in March 2007. Of particular interest to me is a 1xAAA 1W light. Dorcy is also showing a new 3xAAA that they rate at 6W! Over-hyped? Sure, but most everyone else does it.


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## Doug S (Jan 18, 2007)

Robocop said:


> Thanks for the heads up DougS as I would hate to waste this circuit just experimenting......It appears that this circuit must be very different from the original Dorcy Board as I recall removing the resistor was a very popular mod for that circuit.
> 
> On a side not what are the transistors used for on a circuit and why would they blow if ran without a resistor?.....could I bypass just one resistor and get away with it?
> 
> ...



I'll eventually get around to a functional explaination and labeled picture as requested. It will be awhile though. Don't bypass the resistors. The transistors in this circuit act as switches. Be patient, I'll be posting some good mods for this board along with explainations of how and why they work. In the meantime, let's wait and see what Vincent reports on these mods.


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## vetkaw63 (Jan 19, 2007)

Doug,
I would love the tutorial. This is a great light for the money. I have crees in a reflector version and an optic version. I would like to modify a few for lithium ion and nimh. I would appreciate any help that you can provide. I think you made mention of a possible group buy for the SMT's? I would like to be in on that. 
Thanks,
Mike


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## UnknownVT (Jan 19, 2007)

Doug S wrote: _"I'll eventually get around to a functional explaination and labeled picture as requested. It will be awhile though. Don't bypass the resistors. The transistors in this circuit act as switches. Be patient, I'll be posting some good mods for this board along with explainations of how and why they work. In the meantime, let's wait and see what Vincent reports on these mods."_

DougS's mods arrived in today's mail - 
and 

Just posted in the CPF Reviews section -

Dorcy 1AAA gen4 Mods


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## Doug S (Jan 21, 2007)

Details of these modifications will be discussed in a new thread I've started over in the Electronics subforum. So far, I just have the circuit for the stock circuit posted. 
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1804217#post1804217


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## UnknownVT (Jan 22, 2007)

Thought some may like to see how DougS's mods performed at an elapsed time of 40 hours when I "prematurely" stopped my testing.....

Please see this thread posted in the CPF Reviews section -

Dorcy 1AAA gen4 Mods

Control Comparison with Stock gen4 Dorcy 1AAA on good battery -









Note as comparison the regular Stock gen4 Dorcy 1AAA dropped to nothing somewhere between 5 and 6 hours. 

DougS's stage 2 mod is still giving out some light albeit dim, but very usable -after a total of 40 hours elapsed time!


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## Doug S (Jan 22, 2007)

Modification details, diagrams, and discussion posted here: 
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1806603#post1806603


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## Robocop (Jan 23, 2007)

Now that we have a much better version of this circuit maybe it would also help to experiment with various types of 5mm LEDs such as the new SuperMJ LED both in cut and uncut versions.


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## UnknownVT (Jan 23, 2007)

*Robocop* wrote: _"Now that we have a much better version of this circuit maybe it would also help to experiment with various types of 5mm LEDs such as the new SuperMJ LED both in cut and uncut versions."_

I agree, but the gains may not be quite as significant as over the original Dorcy 1AAAs (gens 1,2 & 3) as these current gen4's have a brighter LED already - I would _GUESStimate_ in the ballpark of a Nichia CS, and as DougS -who did all these mods -said in the review thread Dorcy 1AAA gen4 Mods (Post #*18*)

*Doug S* wrote: _"BTW, I was very impressed by the apparent efficiencies of the LEDs that come in the currently available Dorcies."_

I was impressed with just the current stock Dorcy 1AAA (gen4) - they have a noticable increase in brightness over the previous gen3 (same circuit board - just different LED) - 
for now it's probably safe to say the newer colors (pink, purple, champagne gold) are most likely gen4's with the brighter LEDs - 
but I think (read: _GUESS_) any package with batteries dated 2013 (or later) may also be gen4 - I bought a matte silver from WalMart with 2013 battery and it was a brighter gen4.


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## Doug S (Jan 23, 2007)

UnknownVT said:


> *Robocop* wrote: _"Now that we have a much better version of this circuit maybe it would also help to experiment with various types of 5mm LEDs such as the new SuperMJ LED both in cut and uncut versions."_
> 
> I agree, but the gains may not be quite as significant as over the original Dorcy 1AAAs (gens 1,2 & 3) as these current gen4's have a brighter LED already - I would _GUESStimate_ in the ballpark of a Nichia CS, and as DougS -who did all these mods -said in the review thread Dorcy 1AAA gen4 Mods (Post #*18*)
> 
> ...


On the subject of the quality of the LEDs in the current Dorcies, here is a bit of info. I had on hand some LEDs that I had removed from some GEN I Dorcies purchased about 2 1/2 years ago. In a test against the LED that I removed from the recently purchased Gen 3/4 that was used for the Stage 3 modded light, the new LED had right at double the output of the older Gen I LED when tested in my homemade integrating photometer. The current LEDs are so good in fact that if you are not increasing the drive current significantly over the stock level it is hard to justify modding with the Cree for output gain alone. The Cree, however, may be preferred by some for it's different beam pattern. Unfortunately I put the Gen 3/4 LED in my junk LED drawer so it is to longer segregated. Next time someone pulls one out of a new Dorcy, perhaps it could be sent to the CPF member jtr1962 who has that long running thread on testing 5mm white LED efficiencies. I suspect that it would compare favorably with the best that he has tested to date.
That thread: 
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=89607&highlight=jeled


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## UnknownVT (Jan 26, 2007)

I was so pleased with the Stage 2 mod by Doug S on the Dorcy 1AAA gen4 Spot - 
that I've now done a full comparison review of it in its own separate thread -

Dorcy 1AAA gen4 - Doug S Stage 2 Mod 

I think the stage 2 mod has a remarkable performance - 
see if you agree?


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## attowatt (Jan 28, 2007)

Hey guys,

I have been out of the loop some time now...
Just wondering where I can find out about the Stage 2 Mod Dorcy 1AAA setup. I edc this little guy, but am interested in only modding as a 2 stage (hi/lo) light.

Thanks
Jim

also am I understanding correctly in that the purple colored dorcy (has rubber grip) at walwart is pretty close to nichia led?


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## UnknownVT (Jan 28, 2007)

*attowatt* wrote: _"Just wondering where I can find out about the Stage 2 Mod Dorcy 1AAA setup. I edc this little guy, but am interested in only modding as a 2 stage (hi/lo) light._
_also am I understanding correctly in that the purple colored dorcy (has rubber grip) at walwart is pretty close to nichia led?"_

Well it seems you've come back just at the right time - 
please see -

Dorcy 1AAA gen4 Mods

for a test of the various mods done by Doug S on the Dorcy 1AAA gen4.

Then Doug S's detailed thread on the circuits for these modifications - 

Dorcy 1AAA Gen 3/4 circuit data

not only that - Doug has also posted a tutorial on how to do these mods and on handling SMT -

Modding the Dorcy 1AAA and SMT techniques tutorial project 

As for the Dorcy 1AAA gen4 (with the brighter LED) - 
I think most of the ones in WalMarts are now gen4 (look for batteries dated 2013 or later) - 
but to be on the safe side, get the newer colors - that's purple, pink or champagne (pale) gold - you can see a pic of these newer colors in Post #*79* (link) above.


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## attowatt (Jan 28, 2007)

Hi Unknownvt,

I read everything you have posted...thanks. I have tried to "rifle" thru ALL those threads you and others have posted...... no luck as of yet.

what I am REALLY interested in ONLY is the 2stage clicky mod.

Thanks
Jim


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## UnknownVT (Jan 28, 2007)

*attowatt* wrote: _"what I am REALLY interested in ONLY is the 2stage clicky mod."_

Ah.... I got you.

You just want to do the Hi/Low tail-switch mod.

Take a look at Posts #*35* and #*37* on page 2 of the thread -

Dorcy 1AAA gen4 Mods

where there are pictures of the Hi/Low tail-switch disassembled showing the components - it's an addition of a board with a resistor (plus some shims) and some surgery -

Perhaps you can ask Doug S who did this clever piece of work how he made it in a bit more detail?


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## UnknownVT (Jan 28, 2007)

Thought some might like to know that I experimented with one of the near depleted AAA alkaline batteries used in my 40 hour running test (I picked the lowest open-circuit voltage).

Using Doug S's Stage 2 Mod on Low - I have gotten another 20+ hours - and it is still running on that near depleted battery.

Yes, it is pretty dim now - but still comparable to my eternaLight Ergo 3 Red/White on Lowest 1x white LED - which means it is still a usable amount of light......

Please see Post #*3* at an additional 8 hours, and Post #*6* at 20 hours on this near depleted battery in the review thread -

Dorcy 1AAA gen4 - Doug S Stage 2 Mod


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## cratz2 (Feb 24, 2007)

I'll bump this excellent thread.

I have long been a fan of the Dorcy 1xAAA as they make ideal gifts and kids lights. Cheap and usable.

And I'll have to agree with UnknownVT from several posts up where he states that he likes the new wide spot beam. I quite like it as well. Of course, I always liked the X1 with it's very narrow spot. With these Gen 3 lights, the spot beam is about as wide as the hotspot of the Gen 2 Dorcy (perhaps even wider) which is very usable and as mentioned, the real world effect is quite different than the old style X1s. 

I have three of the Gen 3s and on all three of them, the head opens with zero resistance. Just twist off. I had done a mod with an X1 using a red THC3 LED which is a higher mA LED. Even though it 'needs' less voltage than most white LEDs, since it is a 100mA LED (I think), it worked well with the stock circuit of the X1 and I put it through several alkaline and NiMH cycles. I'm going to order more of the THC3s and put them in the third gen 1xAAAs. Kinda useless, but pretty neat and these are super simple to mod.

For those that like colored LEDs, either the green or the blue THC3 (I forget which at this point) was AMAZINGLY bright... Beyond low dome Lux I levels.


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## UnknownVT (Feb 24, 2007)

*cratz2* wrote: _"I'll bump this excellent thread._
_I have long been a fan of the Dorcy 1xAAA as they make ideal gifts and kids lights. Cheap and usable._
_And I'll have to agree with UnknownVT from several posts up where he states that he likes the new wide spot beam. I quite like it as well. Of course, I always liked the X1 with it's very narrow spot. With these Gen 3 lights, the spot beam is about as wide as the hotspot of the Gen 2 Dorcy (perhaps even wider) which is very usable and as mentioned, the real world effect is quite different than the old style X1s. "_

Many thanks for the bump......

Here's a really telling comparison -
High vs. Inova X1 Spot - White 







see that? The spot of the Dorcy 1AAA stage 2 mod - even though it is substantially bigger is about the same brightness as the Inova X1's very concentrated spot (and I am pretty sure I have one of the later X1 spots with the Nichia CS LED)

from the review - 

Dorcy 1AAA gen4 - Doug S Stage 2 Mod 

Just a note about why I keep calling the latest versions *gen4* despite the fact they have the same board as the earlier gen3 - 
the main reason is that the latest versions have a *brighter and more efficient LED* - and it's quite noticable.

I would say any of the newer colors (champagne gold, purple or pink) would be *gen4*, and probably any with batteries 2013 or later.


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## Skyeye (Jul 21, 2009)

I found this little Dorcy in a shopping center parking lot a few weeks ago and I think it's a generation 1 as mentioned in your article. It had a battery in it but it was corroded in. I took the little devil apart and had to beat the old cell out of the barrel. I cleaned it all up and put in a new alkaline. WOW! This thing is bright! It also seems well made with O rings and a screw in on/off plus a momentary clicky. I like it and have put in on a lanyard for around the neck. It is about 2.5 times the overall size of my Streamlight Nano but it has the easier AAA batt and the two stage clicky. The lens appears plastic. Nice piece!


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## carbine15 (Jul 21, 2009)

:huh:Holy thread revival Batman!


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## Skyeye (Jul 21, 2009)

How did you know what I do for a night job?:naughty: Old thread, you bet but at least I looked up this in the archives other than waste bandwidth with a new one!


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## Lynx_Arc (Jul 21, 2009)

I noticed they have the dorcy AAA at BigLots for $4.50 but I think it is gen 3 or 4 (the lens type).


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## Skyeye (Jul 22, 2009)

Well, being the DITWF (dyed in the wool flashaholic) that I am, I just had to go to Big Junks this morning and get the latest edition of this little beamer. As luck had it there was only one left on the rack and it was the color that I wanted, silver. I noticed that this latest incarnation is not as well built as my first generation, however it does have a better beam. The little lenser gives it a mostly artifact free perfect circular spot. It appears brighter than the older one but that may be deceiving due to the old one not having a focus lens. Anyway, put another kill tag on the fuselage!  While there I noticed they had another Dorcy in a putrid blue case that appeared made of plastic or rubber. It was touted as a 1 watt LED and had the usual 3AAA engine. It was to me over priced at $8.00.


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## Beacon of Light (Jul 22, 2009)

I always wanted one of the Gen1 Dorcys. I prefer the look of the ribbed rubber grips than the later (the one I own) block rubber grip of Gen 2 or gen3? I forget which generation mine is but mine is right before they switched over to the lens type.


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## DaveG (Jul 22, 2009)

Too bad Wal-mart stopped selling the Dorcy-aaa,great light for the price.


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## IceRat (Jul 22, 2009)

I bought a lot of those little lights mostly gen 2, I still have one new in the package. It is still a useful little light!


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## Lynx_Arc (Jul 22, 2009)

Skyeye said:


> Well, being the DITWF (dyed in the wool flashaholic) that I am, I just had to go to Big Junks this morning and get the latest edition of this little beamer. As luck had it there was only one left on the rack and it was the color that I wanted, silver. I noticed that this latest incarnation is not as well built as my first generation, however it does have a better beam. The little lenser gives it a mostly artifact free perfect circular spot. It appears brighter than the older one but that may be deceiving due to the old one not having a focus lens. Anyway, put another kill tag on the fuselage!  While there I noticed they had another Dorcy in a putrid blue case that appeared made of plastic or rubber. It was touted as a 1 watt LED and had the usual 3AAA engine. It was to me over priced at $8.00.


I bet the brightness is because of the nichia LED in it vs the older ones having generic ones with lower efficiency.


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## NeonLights (Jul 22, 2009)

I was at a local Andersons store today, and of course I stopped by the flashlight aisle. I was surprised to see a couple of these still on the hanger, haven't come across them for awhile. They were the latest revision of them. I still use my early versions of these on occasion.


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## Lynx_Arc (Jul 22, 2009)

IceRat said:


> I bought a lot of those little lights mostly gen 2, I still have one new in the package. It is still a useful little light!


I have an old first gen one that has been abused I use it to suck used AAAs and have it hanging from a lamp by my desk lighting a table up while I am on my computer. The lens is very scratched up probably needing to be replaced.


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## Robocop (Jul 23, 2009)

I probably got more use out of these than any other cheap light as the circuits are easy to get to and great for other mods. I still have a modded QIII using one of these modded boards and it has worked great. I also have 3 of the rare black ones with reflectors still in the original package......just cant bring myself to open them. I probably have at least 15 of them in various colors with all kinds of mods done to them.....still love this little light.

I still remember the old threads where other members did much research on these circuits and the circuit could really be tweeked to perform very well. For the cost at Wal-Mart these were really hard to beat.


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## Skyeye (Jul 23, 2009)

News Flash! I was in Wal-Mart this morning and they have started stocking the Ray-o-Vac version of the 1AAA dorcy. They are $3.oo.


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## Flying Turtle (Jul 23, 2009)

My mother-in-law, uncle, and son still use the old Dorcy's I got them about 5 or 6 years ago. My wife got one, too, but I'd be surprised if she could locate it. Mine is mostly a battery drainer.

Geoff


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## Beacon of Light (Jul 23, 2009)

Skyeye said:


> News Flash! I was in Wal-Mart this morning and they have started stocking the Ray-o-Vac version of the 1AAA dorcy. They are $3.oo.



Is the Ray O Vac version like the 1st and 2nd generation Dorcy?


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## Skyeye (Jul 23, 2009)

No Beacon, the ROV is basically the same dimensions but that's all. It is a smooth annodize with only one rubber band around the barrel. The flat plastic lens has a plastic reflector and the LED seems to sit half in half out of it. You have to twist the bezel to turn it on and off like a small Maglite. The rear end has no switch but there is a knurled area with a lanyard post in the center. It comes with your generic Chinese key chain attachment and a ROV battery. Looks like a 5mm. source. I didn't get it (yet) as I have the two Dorcy's but.........


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Jul 23, 2009)

For various and sundry reasons I need a Walmart run.

Some fishing items, look at knives and lights etc.

Rayovac version of Dorcy is at least worth a look.


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## Lynx_Arc (Jul 23, 2009)

There was a review of the rayovac 1AAA in the past. I don't remember much about the review but I am *thinking* it equated it with getting what you paid for as the output wasn't anything to write home about. I once thought about buying one for the driver to put in another light.


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## Skyeye (Jul 23, 2009)

Well, you guessed it, my curiosity got the best of me and I decided after dinner to go back to WM and get one of the ROV 1AAA's. Just as when I got the Dorcy from Big Junks yesterday, the WM ROV was about sold out! This morning at around 8AM there were at least 30 of them on the blister pole. Tonight there was only two left a blue and a bronze one. I chose the bronze. This little light is about as well made as the Dorcy and I was surprised at the compactness of the beam compared to the Dorcy. It is much tighter and perhaps a little brighter as an effect. In the distance in my dark yard, at about 20 ft., they both illuminated objects fairly well but the ROV had a better throw. I would say that both are acceptable for a throw down key chain or lanyard light. Here's the pair for comparison and a washing machine at 3ft. beam shot (ROV is on the right).


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## Robocop (Jul 24, 2009)

The ROV is a decent light however no where near as versatile as the Dorcy. I was excited at first to see an alternative after they stopped offering the Dorcy so I bought a few to play with. The best feature to me of the Dorcy was the ability to easily access the circuit and reflector/optic. This ROV was impossible to take apart and I eventually had to cut mine open with a pipe cutter just to see how it was made.

I quickly lost interest as the ROV is simply not as fun to play around with from a modding standpoint. My advice is to buy the Dorcy if you can find them as they seem to be growing more rare these days.


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## flatline (Jul 25, 2009)

I hope I'm not breaking any forums rules since I posted this information in another thread already, but today I saw half a dozen or so gen3/4 (don't know how to tell the difference) Dorcy AAAs at a Big Lots in the Memphis area (don't know if Big Lots have the same inventory across the country or if it's a regional thing). They were priced at $4.50 each.

Just in case anyone's interested.


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## J_C (Jul 26, 2009)

I agree with prior comments about the rev 3 giving more definition, or really to put it another way I find it ideal for close-up work because of the even hotspot and roaming around without disturbing others thanks to minimal sidespill. Not too bad for reading either. I'd not want it as my only flashlight but instead of being like all the others but less bright, it serves it's own niche. I find the beam very complimentary to night navigation because the pale evened-out hotspot doesn't decrease my night vision as much as with most light, that without the odd hue and lack of color differentiation if I were to use red light instead. Result is the light comes on only when needed, and either way I retain further peripheral vision. Not the best AAA for an EDC but good in familiar surroundings where you don't want to disturb others.


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## [email protected] (Jul 27, 2009)

Robocop said:


> My advice is to buy the Dorcy if you can find them as they seem to be growing more rare these days.



I've seen a few on the racks at Big W but AFAIK they're the all aluminium version, after reading your Dorcy AAA modding threads I'll likely pick up one (or a dozen) :thumbsup:


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## Robocop (Jul 27, 2009)

My mods to this light were one of many more by other members however my favorite was changing the bezel out with a spare tailcap from a 2nd light. This made the light the same diameter on both ends and with a little bit of file work it worked perfectly.

I have swapped out the 5mm with all kinds of different emitters and basically spent many happy hours tinkering with this cheap light. There were some very in depth threads discussing this circuit with some modding it to be a battery sipper running for days where others powered 3 watt Luxeons with plenty of performance.

I still have probably 7 loose circuits laying around that I still tinker with and at least a dozen bodies and reflectors. The most interesting thread I can remember was a member who actually removed all the components and fashioned his own smaller light engine by re-positioning all of the parts into a nice smaller package.

The last mod I did with this light was using a Mag luxeon pill I got on sale for 5 dollars. A little file work and it was small enough to slide right into the end of the Dorcy body and was the same length as the factory circuit. It actually conducted heat better than in a Mag host and when powered with a 10440 Li/Ion it made some big light.....runtime was crappy but it was fun to tinker with.

This thread has actually got me going through all of my spare parts again.....I still find many uses for this light.


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## UnknownVT (Jul 28, 2009)

Robocop said:


> The ROV is a decent light however no where near as versatile as the Dorcy.



WoW! thanks guys for reviving this thread - 
sorry I wasn't paying attention.

But I did review that Ray-O-Vac 1AAA flashlight a while back and did direct comparisons with the Dorcy 1AAA gen4 Spot version -

Ray-O-Vac 1AAA LED Review


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## Flying Turtle (Jul 28, 2009)

I remember your early review and pics of the Dorcy, Vincent. That was probably one of your first reviews. Good stuff.

Geoff


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## Beacon of Light (Jul 28, 2009)

I'll have to search the Dorcy mods to find the one that makes it a runtime champ. Anyone recall the approx lumens it had for it to run for days?


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## [email protected] (Jul 28, 2009)

Beacon of Light said:


> I'll have to search the Dorcy mods to find the one that makes it a runtime champ. Anyone recall the approx lumens it had for it to run for days?



Not sure but efficiency was reportedly around 105% *Dorcy 1AAA Gen 3/4 circuit data** :thumbsup:*



Robocop said:


> This thread has actually got me going through all of my spare parts again.....I still find many uses for this light.



Unfortunately I can't find any use for incandescent version which is apparently all they stock from Dorcy in that form factor around here :mecry:


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## Robocop (Jul 28, 2009)

I started a thread some time back asking if anyone knew where the little Dorcy had gone. It always sold like crazy at my local Wal-Mart and suddenly one day they never re-stocked the empty pegs. It seemed to simply vanish overnight and I have yet to find another in any Wal-Mart I visit.

For 5 dollars I would buy as many as I could find simply to have the circuits and if done correctly the host is not that bad either. The only real weak link I can remember on this light was the very weak keychain ring on the tailcap.

Check some of the links below for some of the fun mods on this light...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/130749

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/76351

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/84291

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=84658

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/84660


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## Beacon of Light (Jul 28, 2009)

Anyone here have Doug S's Stage 2 mod. I just read about it and it sounds impressive way back then he had a 1xAAA light that could do well over 70 hours on 1 AAA cell on low/moon mode.


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## Skyeye (Jul 28, 2009)

Here's an interesting comparison to the Dorcy and the ROV. I got this from my Goodwill store this morning for $1.00. It's a Radio Shack ican keychain light. It's made with Maglite quality and has a tiny grain of wheat bulb housed in a focusing reflector. It's not bright but it does have a neat twister tail switch and a lanyard/keychain hole. It is brand new. I smell a possible MOD! I found out something else, the little key chain fob is actually a capsule that when unscrewed, reveals a spare bulb!


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## UnknownVT (Jul 28, 2009)

Beacon of Light said:


> Anyone here have Doug S's Stage 2 mod. I just read about it and it sounds impressive way back then he had a 1xAAA light that could do well over 70 hours on 1 AAA cell on low/moon mode.



I (obviously) have one each of Doug S's stage 1 and stage 2 mods.

For those interested here are the threads -

Dorcy 1AAA gen4 Mods

Dorcy 1AAA gen4 - Doug S Stage 2 Mod

From Doug S's post #*33* -
thread on the technical aspects of these mods: 
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...20#post1815020 
thread with the ''how to do it'': 
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...96#post1815196


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