# MAG85...need info please



## 22HERTZ (Sep 11, 2005)

I am really interested in building a Mag85, but after doing some searches I cant seem to find all the info on how to build one.

Could someone tell me where to get everything I need and/or paste links to any info related to this build please.

Also is the Mag 85 reliable?


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## Trashman (Sep 11, 2005)

You can get everything you need from Fivemega. You need a 9AA-3D adapter, an aluminum reflector (light orage peel aka LOP is prefered), a Boro lens (high temperature glass), and a WA1185 bulb. There are two types of these bulbs-- bi-pin, and potted. Potted would be the easiest, because it doesn't require any more modification to the 3D cell Maglite (something you'll also be needing).

All of these items can be obtained from Fivemega here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/90344

Oh yeah, and you'll be needing 9AA rechargeable batteries, which can be bought anywhere.


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## powernoodle (Sep 11, 2005)

Take one 3D Mag light. Remove the stock plastic reflector and replace with a metal reflector from CPF member Modamag (who is now selling them I think) or from www.light-edge.com. I would recommend a LOP (low orange peel) or MOP (medium orange peel) reflector, but you can use SMO (smooth) or HOP; (high orange peel) too. Orange peel describes the bumpiness of the reflective coating. The higher you go on orange peel, the smoother the beam is but it slightly diminishes throw. Also note that some of these metal reflectors are cammed and some are not. You want cammed, which is like the stock reflector and allows you to turn the head of the light to focus the light. All of light-edge's reflectors are cammed, I think. CPF members who make and sell them will sell both flavors, so make sure you get a cammed reflector if ordering from one of them.

Next replace the stock bulb with a potted Welch-Allyn WA1185 bulb from www.light-edge.com (click on superbulbs) or anywhere you can find one. Potted means that it screws into the existing socket just like the stock bulb does. The other flavor that some use is a bi-pin bulb, which doesnt screw it. (Well, they dont actually screw in, but are held in place with a retaining ring just like the stock bulb). In order to use the bi-pin bulb you have to replace the stock switch with one from a Magcharger light. Just using a potted bulb with the stock Mag 3D switch is much easier. Order a spare bulb or two and store them in the tail of the light.

Next replace the plastic stock lens with a 52.1mm borofloat glass lens from www.flashlightlens.com. This size fits the 2D, 3D, 4D, etc mag lights. Dont use the UCL lens as it has a protective coating that some say can melt.

Almost done. Buy from CPF member Fivemega a 9AA to 3D adapter, which is also written "9aa>3D". If he is not currently selling them, look for one on b/s/t or wait for him to sell some more. He offers them regularly. This adapter fits in the battery compartment and lets you use 9 rechargeable AA batteries in place of the 3 D-sized batteries you use in a regular Mag 3D light. These adapters are well made. There are cheaper plastic adapters, each of which are the size of a 3D battery and each which hold 3 AA batteries (so you have to use 3 of them), but dont use these unless you have to.

Lastly, get 9 rechargeable NiMH AA batteries and a charger. I use Titanium brand batteries from www.amondotech.com, but any kind will do. You can use the 2100mAh or 2500mAh flavor or whatever floats your boat. Charge them, place them in Fivemega's adapter, and dont stick them in the light for 12-24 hours. You have to wait in order for the voltage to drop. If you dont wait and use freshly charged batteries, you can fry the bulb. Dont over discharge these as its bad for them. Pop them in the charger as soon as the light starts to dim. 

One last thing. These things can make smoke at first, which can cloud the lens. So with a brand new bulb and/or new light, take the head off of it and turn it on for several minutes. This will cook it nicely and you may see a wisp of smoke for several minutes. It will stop smoking eventually, and then you can put the head back on and use the light.

Give this a try, and PM me if I haven't made sense. You'll be highly impressed with how bright this thing is.

Edited to add: as to your query about reliability, I would say they are very reliable. A bulb will blow once in a while, but you can carry a spare in the tail. Extended use can start to melt the switch, but usually this is just a cosmetic thing. Other than that they they are about as reliable as any incan light, but best bet is to always carry 1 or 4 spares. 

The search function apparently isn't up and running at full speed yet after a hardware/software changeover, but you can find more later when the search function comes back to life.

best regards


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## Lmtfi (Sep 11, 2005)

Powernoodle: Thanks for the detailed explanation and definitions. You made a few things clear that I was puzzled by in reading other posts. I'm all over this build!

ETA: I'm all over this build once FiveMega has the 9AA>3D adapters back in stock...

Alan


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## auriga (Sep 11, 2005)

Thank you powernoodle for the excellent instructions. I have also wanted to build a Mag85 for some time, and like 22HERTZ said some of the information wasn't that easy to find. It's great to have all the information gathered in one post.
:goodjob:


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## 22HERTZ (Sep 11, 2005)

WOW...thank you so much for the detailed response.

Is there a consensus as to who has the higher quality parts (if any)?

Also is there a proven mod to replace the switch with one capable of handling higher current?

By the way I am an electrical engineer and I dont quite understand about the reverse charging, unless you mean all the batteries will equalize in charge in the event one dies reducing the overall charge???

Oh and I build and repair battery packs for a living, so maybe I can play around at work tommorrow and figure out a way to build a battery pack so I dont need the adapter. I take it the highest MAH NIMH batterys are the best to use? We use Dantona cells FYI

I think I have found another addiction...PURE LUMENS :rock:


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## wallyrulz (Sep 11, 2005)

I use the Rayovac 15 min rechargables and have never had to wait. As a matter of fact, I used this light all week at church camp on night patrol. I charged it in my 15 min chargers (I have a 4 and 2 place chargers) and popped them back in immediately. I have used this light a lot, and am still on the first bulb.

If you have any specific questions, ask away.

Paul


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## wallyrulz (Sep 11, 2005)

A quick funny to add to the last post. One night, I gave the light to a friend to let him use for the evening. He told me that when he went to the cabin to go to bed, he did not want to wake up all the campers and other counselors as it was about 2 am. So he proceeded to cover the head with his hand, and turn it on. 

He said that his hopes of not waking anybody up vanished when he screamed in pain from the heat.


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## powernoodle (Sep 11, 2005)

22HERTZ said:


> By the way I am an electrical engineer and I dont quite understand about the reverse charging, unless you mean all the batteries will equalize in charge in the event one dies reducing the overall charge???



Wait a minute - I'm having brain freeze. I'm thinking of unprotected Li-ion cells in a series being an alleged hazard. The batteries used in a Mag85 are NiMH. I've never heard of NiMH batts in a series presenting a hazard, so disregard my bad info above. :nana: 

I'm going to start a new thread in the right forum to inquire why one is an alleged hazard and one isn't. Probably something to do with Li-ion chemistry being more prone to uncontrolled thermal expansion (explosion).

What I'm thinking of is when Juancho shipped to me my first Mag85 before I knew how to whip one up on my own. He unscrewed the tail to release the circuit so the batts wouldn't over-discharge if the light was somehow turned on during shipping.

I've edited out the bad info above.

best regards


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## NikolaTesla (Sep 12, 2005)

I don't completely agree. The bi-pin setup with KIU kit is a superior build.

1) Bipin bulbs don't "SMOKE" or explode unexpectedly do to stress of being made. WA1185 bulbs are born as bipins and potted. The potting compond smokes when heated to 500 degrees for a while and ruins reflectors. Also bending pins to fit cracks glass and cause premature failures.

2) KIU bipin conversion wouldn't melt. I have one in my Mag100 (100 watt Osram bulb version with 11 cells). The Mag Charger socket can be substituded but will melt if you push the bulb in all the way so glass touches plastic in center. The bulbs operate over 500 degrees. Just leave 1mm space.

3) Potted 1185's can not be critically aligned in center of reflector sometimes producing out of round off kilt patteren.

4) I never melted a coated glass reflector even on my 100 watt Mag.
I use UCL glass on everything as it has the best light transmission of all (Flashlightlens.com)

5) I did melt a (FM) Five Mega reflector as did several others. I was using a 75 watt bulb at the time pushed to 90 watts. Never had a problem with 1185 though being only 35 watts. Stick with MOP- much nicer pattern.

6) Custom aluminum reflectors are VERY delicate on shinny surface- do NOT touch them EVER. rinse with soapy water only and blow dry if need arises.

7) if you get the FM 9AA to 3D holder, get a Universal Smart Charger (Batterspace or Amondotech) as it will recharge your NiMh cells in the holder in 1 hour. Very handy. FM supplies connector with holder.

8) If you have a bipin Mag85, you can always use a WA1331 bulb instead which is 2 amps instead of 3- gives longer run time and not much less light.

Biult that way, I find my Mag 85 VERY reliable and blinding bright. Gives my $500 SureFire Dominator 10X a good run and costs 1/3 as much.

Once you use a Super light like this, all the other store bought lights (other than SureFire M6 or 10X) are tinker toys. (Lanterns, Spot lights and HID don't count-they are much larger)

GOOD LUCK!


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## powernoodle (Sep 13, 2005)

NikolaTesla said:


> I don't completely agree. The bi-pin setup with KIU kit is a superior build.



You are right about that. I would never argue with one of the Crown Princes of bright lights. :nana: 

I'm just speaking in terms of having an easy build on a first light. Install a potted bulb, and impress the neighbors. No switch disassembly, no soldering, no nothing. 

best regards


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## juancho (Sep 13, 2005)

Nicola,
Your point # 7, about the Universal Smart charger, to recharge batteries right in the Fivemega holder.
I can not find that model in Amondotech, can you please give a link, I am tired of waitting 20 hours to charge the 2400 mah.
A one hour charger with leads will be ideal.

But what about the heat issue, will not overheat the batteries too much. after all to fill a 2400 mah in one hour it shoulb be charging at 2400 mah.
Do you actually have one, what about the life of the batteries?


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## Grox (Sep 13, 2005)

22HERTZ said:


> Is there a consensus as to who has the higher quality parts (if any)?
> 
> Also is there a proven mod to replace the switch with one capable of handling higher current?
> 
> ...



Regarding part quality the only parts you can really choose are 1. lens 2. bulb holder 3. battery holder. 4. reflector This is assuming you want the WA1185 bulb.

1. The best lenses available are the flashlightlens.com ones. I have had good experiences with the UCL lens. The stock mag lens won't cope with the bulb's heat. 2. Bulb holder: try to get kiu's bi-pin high temperature holder. This means you can later pop in other WA bulbs also . 3. battery holder - fivemega's 9aa-3d holder is the class act here. It makes the 9aa cells into a 3d size pack. You never have to remove and replace the individual batteries again - you can just charge the whole pack. 4. FiveMega reflectors!

One option if FM'S 9aa-3d holder isn't available are the elektrolumens 3aa-d holders. These are also quite good but you'll have to individually take out each cell to charge them and replace them into the holders once you're done. Be sure to get the v2 holders as the v1 holders have higher resistance.

Regarding the switch: for mag85 mods, the stock switch is fine AFAIK.

Regarding reverse charging: I couldn't find the bit of the post you were referring to. I think the idea here is that if you overdischarge a NiMh cell and run it in series with a bunch of non-discharged cells, bad things happen.

Regarding batteries: Almost any 2100-2300mAh AA cell will do. You're asking these cells to deliver 3+ amps which means bad things for their longevity. I recall somewhere that some 2300+ mAh cells (esp 2500mah IIRC) may be too fat to fit into the holder. The class acts here are
1. Sanyo 2100 mAh NiMh cells - recommended and touted by Wilkey (Ginseng) as his favourite
2. Titanium (amondotech.com) 2400mAh NiMh cells
3. High current cheaperbatterypack.com 1650mAh NiMh cells. The trick here is that these cells are designed for high current applications. I guess that means they will have a longer lifespan (overall) but at the cost of shorter runtime (per run). You only need 8 of these as opposed to 9 of the others because their voltage doesn't sag as much. These cells are flat-top!

See KevinL's summary here . Unfortunately the links are broken because of the new forum upgrade but the information is there. Scroll down to #82.


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## powernoodle (Sep 13, 2005)

Grox said:


> Regarding reverse charging: I couldn't find the bit of the post you were referring to.




I misspoke and edited it out above. Trying to cover my tracks, you know. 

best regards


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## NikolaTesla (Sep 13, 2005)

Try Batteryspace.com for the Universal smart charger. Its $29.95.
I have not ruined any cells yet on low charge (900MA)

It can automatically peak charge any Nicad or NiMh AA thru F (bigger than D) cell packs 5 to 10 cells (No more or less at one time. AA packs charge in about 1 to 1.5 hours on the LOW charge setting. High is for Cor larger packs. It's made to really peak charge those hobby race car C packs but is the best bargin charger around. It even works on my MaxaBeam packs! (10 F cells).

And I will revisit the Mag85 build again- Buget Build:

3 Elektrolumen 3 AA holders only $7.50- can't recharge cells inside unless you make fixture.
Potted Mag85 bulb only $8
Must have aluminum reflector $20

Battery space has Powerizer AA NiMh cells cheap. They are 2300 mah and work fine. Titanium are better but twice the price. 9 Powerizer only $12.
Glass lens $8
3D mag- $16

$72 for bargain Mag85. Not the best but hey it still blows away ANYTHING except those giant ugly clunkers (Thor) made of plastic and the size of a suitcase weighing in at 10Lbs+. Even gives my SureFire 10X Dominator ($500) a good run for its money as well as M6($392) which can't even recharge.
The beam on the SureFires is smoother but at that cost it should be. They are not as bright as 1200 lumens though.

The good parts are just more reliable and brighter output (Less lost voltage)
You get what you pay for.

NT


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## Grox (Sep 14, 2005)

Is this the charger you were referring to? I'd seen it but I didn't know it worked that well. I should have bought it 

Elektrolumens v2 3-to-d holders are actually 3.50 each, and 2.50 in quantities of 10. Thead is here.


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## NikolaTesla (Sep 14, 2005)

That is the charger. Best one I ever bought. Works like a charm. 

You can pick up the Tamiya connector at hobby shop and make a direct cable to go to Five Mega holder. No need for the clip lead on that holder.


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## ABTOMAT (Sep 14, 2005)

Anything in particular to keep in mind if I wanted to do this with a Magcharger? Seems like you're already set for the reflector, lens, and it takes bipin bulbs stock. I assume you could charge the cells in the light if a different power source was connected to the cradle.


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## NikolaTesla (Sep 14, 2005)

MagCharger is easiest: Buy WA1160 bulb and aluminum reflector from FM on group buy section. He is still selling them -get'm quick while they last

Still can use same battery and charger. Lens is already glass.:laughing:


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## ABTOMAT (Sep 14, 2005)

Right, the required parts already being on an MC lead me to think about this. And they already have aluminum reflectors, unless the bakelite/resin cam poses a problem.

I know about the 1160, but isn't the 1185 considerably brighter when driven by a big stack of AAs?


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## paulr (Sep 15, 2005)

I took quite a long time getting my mag85 together but now have what I think is about the best configuration: Fivemega 9AA-to-3D adapter, cammed LOP reflector, Borofloat lens, and Kiu ceramic replacement switch. 

I went through other alternatives. Stay away from those plastic 3AA-to-D adapters, they were a nice idea but because of the constraints they had to satisfy, they're just a big pain, they fall apart, etc. The Fivemega adapter is very rugged and allows charging the batteries in place. I used a Magcharger switch slug before getting the Kiu switch and the plastic core started vaporizing and deposited glop all over my nice reflector. I haven't yet completely removed the glop and am not sure if it's possible. UCL lens is probably ok, no prob. One unsatisfying thing about the cammed reflector is the hole is much bigger than the bulb, so some light gets wasted. I think there are some uncammed reflectors that are the right size. The cam isn't that useful anyway, the variable focus feature just doesn't work well with this setup. I'm using Sanyo HR-3U 2500 mAH cells. The Powerizer cells have gotten poor ratings from lots of people and I wouldn't mess with them. Some people even recommend CBP 1650 or comparable high current cells because of the heavy load, but the Sanyos and the Titanium 2400 mAH cells seem to be up to this job. The Mag85 is NOT that tolerant of random NiMH cells and a lot of them (including the Titanium 2200) don't seem able to supply enough current without voltage sag. Stick to what's been tested and measured.

All in all I don't think it's worth the hassle. If I were doing it again I'd just get a Magcharger and drop in a WA01160 bulb and call it a day. That results in maybe 25% fewer lumens than a Mag85, but still a heck of a lot. If you're after absolutely max lumens, get a USL, don't mess with this wimpy WA stuff .

The MC approach means you don't have to screw around with reflector replacement, battery pack replacement, AA to D adapters, or lens replacement, though maybe you still want to do something about the plastic switch core (some people tried mica heat shields with good results). Total cash expenditure is less than a Mag85, hassle expenditure is infinitely less (basically just a bulb swap), and maybe most importantly, you get a much more practical light since the stock external charging system still works. That means you don't have to take the light apart to charge the batteries. You just drop it in the charger and you can even leave it there so the light is always charged when you want to use it. Some people have replaced the stock battery MC stick with a fancier NiMH stick for more runtime, but that's just a refinement.


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## 22HERTZ (Sep 15, 2005)

I cant find specs on the different bulbs, where are you guys getting them from?

Will an aluminum reflector fit in a 2D and 3D MAG? I have a 2D now and will eventually get a 3D but need to know the interchangablility before ordering parts.


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## Grox (Sep 16, 2005)

22HERTZ said:


> I cant find specs on the different bulbs, where are you guys getting them from?
> 
> Will an aluminum reflector fit in a 2D and 3D MAG? I have a 2D now and will eventually get a 3D but need to know the interchangablility before ordering parts.



www.walamp.com has stats and diagrams and everything you need to know about welch allyn bulbs/lamps. The page for the: 1185 rerated to 10.8V. The page for the 1185 bulb is here .

The reflectors are interchangeable between 2d and 3d mags (heads are the same size). Make sure you NEVER touch the reflector with your fingers as the coatings are extremely delicate. If you want to clean it use the sima lenspen from flashlightlens.com but still be very very careful. If you do ruin the reflector you'll get drastically reduced output and a yucky beam.


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## PGP (Sep 16, 2005)

I would also like to build a MAG 85, I just found this forum today. I have found all the links to parts except for the Kiu ceramic replacement switch. Where can I find it. I am still a little unclear on the difference between a bipin and potted bulb and the difference while doing this conversion. Dont they go in the same location as the stock bulb. Maybe I need to see a picture to see the difference between the bulbs.

This forum is great!
I have a Thor 10M, Thor 15M, SF G2Z, SF C3, SF 9AN & a SF M4.


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## powernoodle (Sep 16, 2005)

PGP:

A potted bulb is the same configuration as a stock Mag bulb. You just drop it in place like a stock bulb, and its held in place by the retaining ring like a stock bulb.

A bi-pin bulb is not like a stock bulb. It has two little wires sticking out the bottom (thus the name), and requires a different socket. The socket/switch from a Magcharger light is bi-pin, and can be transplanted into a 3D Mag so that a bi-pin bulb can be used.

KIU's socket replaces the stock mag socket, and it is a bi-pin configuration.

Find KIU on the member list, then click the link that will show all of the threads he started. The thread in which he sells (or sold) the sockets can be found there. Dont know if he is still selling them.

best regards


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## PGP (Sep 16, 2005)

Thanks for the info powernoodle. I now understand the differences.

Thank You


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## Nasty (Sep 16, 2005)

Wish someone simply sold all the parts in one place...make it easy for the (er, us) noobies to get hotwired!


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## NikolaTesla (Sep 16, 2005)

Nasty, Litho123 and a couple of others used to sell complete units on B/S/T page. Here and there they pop up for sale. I even seen them on Ebay. Be patient. You can find one but not at Walmart.


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## NikolaTesla (Sep 17, 2005)

some here for sale



https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/92199


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## auriga (Sep 17, 2005)

I have some questions about the batteries. Grox wrote that if you use the CBP 1650 you only need 8 of them. Even with the lesser voltage drop, wouldn't using only 8 cells mean a less bright light. Is it possible to use 9 CBP:s if you make sure they are rested after charging or would the bulb break even then?
Who sells any of the other recommended batteries (Sanyo or Titanium) and ships to Europe with USPS?

Edit:I would also like to know a good place for buying a Mag 3D at a good price including international shipping.


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## birderbill (Sep 17, 2005)

I use 9 CBP 1650s. No instaflashes yet, pack always reads under 12.5v,


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## Grox (Sep 17, 2005)

Not having the search function working makes it a bit harder for me to answer this question . Someone like Ginseng, bwaites or NikolaTesla could answer this question in a more authoratative sense than me since I have no experience with the CBP 1650s. I am NOT an expert on this. The following is just my understanding of the issue and may be riddled with flaws 

If you don't want to read the rest of my post, read this: you *can *run the 1185 on 9 CBP 1650 cells - but it's a good idea to rest the pack before you use it. I made a mistake in my previous post. I just meant to advise caution. 8 cells will make it less likely to blow, but also dimmer.

Running the 85 bulb on 9 (regular, non-cbp) nimhs is still pushing the bulb pretty hard and it doesn't take a whole lot more voltage to instaflash the bulb. 10 cells will almost certainly instaflash your 1185; using 9 is still close to the edge. Instaflashes on 9 normal cells hot off the charger aren't common but they do occur.

Enter the CBP cells. Remember that shortly after you turn on the light, voltage drops rapidly as the resistance of the bulb pulls it down. Now, the CBP cells are designed NOT to sag as much - they are manufactured for high current applications. So it's more likely that a bulb will blow with the CBPs (less voltage sag) than normal cells (more voltage sag) since the bulb is under more stress. I guess the solution is to rest your pack to make sure that its putting out a safe voltage before you play with your lightsabre .

It's a question of degrees rather than certainties. More voltage+current means that it's likelier the bulb will pop. Since the CBPs can put out more voltage+current without sagging the bulb is likelier to pop.


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## mckevin (Sep 17, 2005)

IMHO, the Magcharger is the perfect platform for a Mag85. I honestly don't know why everyone doesn't do it this way.
Swap the bulb, with a bit of heat shield (optional) from a hairdryer under the bulb to protect the slug. Replace the stock battery pack with a 9 cell CBP1650 pack. Short the little blue resistor in the charger. 
With very little work (& no spending months rounding up parts) you have a charge in place MC85 solution...



ABTOMAT said:


> Anything in particular to keep in mind if I wanted to do this with a Magcharger? Seems like you're already set for the reflector, lens, and it takes bipin bulbs stock. I assume you could charge the cells in the light if a different power source was connected to the cradle.


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## wasBlinded (Sep 17, 2005)

I do not believe the Magcharger is the perfect platform. A well driven WA1185 will still cause gassing of the bipin slug of the Magcharger despite a good heatshield, and result in clouding of the reflector.

If you can keep runtimes below 5 minutes or so, you might be OK.

A light with the KIU ceramic bipin socket is by far a better solution.


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## mckevin (Sep 18, 2005)

O.K., "perfect" might be an overstatement.  
I can say, however, that with the heatshield under the bulb I have put the light through several full pack discharges with no ill effects.
_For me,_ it was an ideal solution, especially since I had access to a free Magcharger. :nana:


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## shrock (Sep 19, 2005)

> KIU ceramic bipin socket



So can you put one of these in a MagCharger?


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## NikolaTesla (Sep 19, 2005)

Nope. Its made for a regular Mag. The guts and reflector of MC is its own thing.


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## Donovan (Sep 20, 2005)

NikolaTesla said:


> 8) If you have a bipin Mag85, you can always use a WA1331 bulb instead which is 2 amps instead of 3- gives longer run time and not much less light.




Any specs on the WA1331 overdriven? This might be a great alternative choice in a 2D Mag with 8 cells since the voltage shouldn't sag as much with only a 2amp draw correct?


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## NikolaTesla (Sep 20, 2005)

look here for specs on 1331. You can rerate the voltage by clicking on voltage in table;

http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/rerate.tpl?action=rerate&V2=6.48&L2=1.74220612671994&adj=4&partnumber=01331-U

You can edit the 4 digit bulb number at end to get specs (change 1331 to 1185 for instance)


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## larry2 (Oct 15, 2005)

i am looking at getting a magcharger and modding it, but the magchargers in australia are a lot more expensive that the ones from the usa. 
The only difference is the usa ones use a 110V battery charger...
where it's 240V in australia
-what voltage does it output ?
-does it just output a set voltage ? or is it a smart charger ?

any companies that people recommend who ship the mag charger units internationally ?


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## setherd (Oct 19, 2005)

just a quick thanks to all!
this thread has been great.

i currently have my 1/2 finished [email protected], it's about as bright as my SL TL3. i am currently running it with 6AA (non-rechargeable) and 1 D-cell, i have been only able to get 2, 3AA->D adapters  so far.
next to get a charger!


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## raysmd (Nov 7, 2005)

mckevin said:


> IMHO, the Magcharger is the perfect platform for a Mag85. I honestly don't know why everyone doesn't do it this way.
> Swap the bulb, with a bit of heat shield (optional) from a hairdryer under the bulb to protect the slug. Replace the stock battery pack with a 9 cell CBP1650 pack. Short the little blue resistor in the charger.
> With very little work (& no spending months rounding up parts) you have a charge in place MC85 solution...




Why do you short the little blue resistor in the charger? Is this so that you can use a CBP1650 battery pack?


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## SJACKAL (Nov 7, 2005)

Is the Fivemega High Temp Bipin slug good? Or are Kiu's better?


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## Hookd_On_Photons (Nov 7, 2005)

auriga said:


> I have some questions about the batteries. Grox wrote that if you use the CBP 1650 you only need 8 of them. Even with the lesser voltage drop, wouldn't using only 8 cells mean a less bright light. Is it possible to use 9 CBP:s if you make sure they are rested after charging or would the bulb break even then?



Grox offered a good explanation. I usually understand things a little better when presented in a visual medium, so I'll add a few graphics. I am by no means an expert, and I defer to the expertise of the hotwire gurus.

SilverFox has posted a ton of discharge curves for various brands of NiMH batteries in the Batteries/Electronics forum.

Ginseng had recommended Energizer 2100mAH NiMHs on the basis of their relatively good performance, and availability.

Here's SilverFox's graph (rehosted to save his bandwidth):





And here's the graph for the CBP1650s (rehosted):





The WA01185 draws 3.15 amps

http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/detail.tpl?partnumber=01185-U&cart=1131413516108643

At that current draw, the Energizers are at 1.1V for most of the run. The CBP1650s stay at or slightly above 1.2V for most of the duration.

Nine Energizer 2100mAH AAs will be driving the WA01185 at just a little above spec (around 9.9V) for most of the run due to voltage sag.

Eight CBP1650s will easily drive the WA01185 at spec (around 9.6V), and the ninth cell overdrives it, risking flashing the bulb. The tradeoff is the rerated lumen output at 10.8V = ([10.8/9.6]^3.5) * 816.81 = *1233.54 lumens*. :devil:

What's wrong with the Magcharger as a host for a Mag85? I recall reading a thread in which Ginseng and bwaites estimated the loss of bulb lumens to "out the front" lumens at around 30%, due largely to the big honkin' hole in the back of a standard Mag reflector. The Magcharger reflector has a teeny little hole that's just a little bigger than the bulb.

Has anybody tried Fivemega's ceramic bipin slug in a Magcharger switch assembly? That might be a good solution. I bought a hairdryer at a garage sale and salvaged the mica innards to make heatshields for my hotwire bipin Magmods. They're not pretty, but they work fairly well.

setherd, primary cells are not going to do too well for high-current applications, unless you're using lithiums. And it might be hazardous to mix batteries of differing capacities.

Right now, there are *two* active groupbuys for battery adapters!

Modamag (various configurations):

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96929

Fivemega (9AA-to-3D, 6AA-to-2D):

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=97528

I agree with PaulR that in retrospect I'd probably just stick with a Magcharger, plug in a WA01160, and be done with it. The 4000mAH AeroNiMH battery sticks I got from Ginseng's groupbuy are a fine addition, but the stock battery stick is reasonably good.

Right now, my Mag85 is in semi-retirement. When I reach for a hotwire, it's either the Magcharger60 or a Roar of the Pelican/Mag 2D.


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## theamazingrando (Nov 8, 2005)

Where would I look for a 12volt battery pack for a mag charger?


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## NikolaTesla (Nov 9, 2005)

Thats what we been talking about. A FiveMega holder (9AA to 3D) with 9 CPB1650 cells is ideal. Just pull out the old 6 volt pack, drop it in and jump the blue resistor in the MC charger. Now install WA01185 bulb. MC85 done.



theamazingrando said:


> Where would I look for a 12volt battery pack for a mag charger?


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## raysmd (Nov 9, 2005)

what does the blue resistor mod do? Does it allow you to charge the battery pack using the mag charger's wall charger?


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## NikolaTesla (Nov 9, 2005)

yes





raysmd said:


> what does the blue resistor mod do? Does it allow you to charge the battery pack using the mag charger's wall charger?


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## Alin10123 (Nov 12, 2005)

paulr said:


> I took quite a long time getting my mag85 together but now have what I think is about the best configuration: Fivemega 9AA-to-3D adapter, cammed LOP reflector, Borofloat lens, and Kiu ceramic replacement switch.
> 
> I went through other alternatives. Stay away from those plastic 3AA-to-D adapters, they were a nice idea but because of the constraints they had to satisfy, they're just a big pain, they fall apart, etc. The Fivemega adapter is very rugged and allows charging the batteries in place. I used a Magcharger switch slug before getting the Kiu switch and the plastic core started vaporizing and deposited glop all over my nice reflector. I haven't yet completely removed the glop and am not sure if it's possible. UCL lens is probably ok, no prob. One unsatisfying thing about the cammed reflector is the hole is much bigger than the bulb, so some light gets wasted. I think there are some uncammed reflectors that are the right size. The cam isn't that useful anyway, the variable focus feature just doesn't work well with this setup. I'm using Sanyo HR-3U 2500 mAH cells. The Powerizer cells have gotten poor ratings from lots of people and I wouldn't mess with them. Some people even recommend CBP 1650 or comparable high current cells because of the heavy load, but the Sanyos and the Titanium 2400 mAH cells seem to be up to this job. The Mag85 is NOT that tolerant of random NiMH cells and a lot of them (including the Titanium 2200) don't seem able to supply enough current without voltage sag. Stick to what's been tested and measured.
> 
> ...




PaulR, when you said that the reflector's hole was too big, did yuo mean fivemega's reflectors? or the lightedge.com reflectors?

thanks


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## Alin10123 (Nov 23, 2005)

Also, can anyone recommend a good set of rechargeables to go inside a mag85? I've heard some batteries will instaflash the bulb hot off the charger. So i'm looking for good ones with a good constant discharge rate, and ones that wont blow the bulb right off the charger. Also ones with a larger capacity for example the new titanium 2600mah's. 

Are those recommended for use in the mag85? 

thanks


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## paulr (Nov 23, 2005)

Alin, yes, the 5mega reflectors have PR sized holes which are larger than needed for bi-pin bulbs. I don't know about lightedge.

There are NO nimh cells that are safe to use hot off the charger. Let the cells cool down for a while before use. The mag85 is not consumer-ready technology. For that, you need something like an M6R, which uses an LVR regulator for perfectly flat output and soft bulb start. There are some projects under way to do that without the M6 host, using either a m*g host, a custom host, or some other possibility.


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## Luna (Nov 23, 2005)

raysmd said:


> what does the blue resistor mod do? Does it allow you to charge the battery pack using the mag charger's wall charger?



You can charge on the cradle without modification but it isn't ideal


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## habibi (Nov 23, 2005)

Hi there!
After i cut the blue resistor inside the charger-cradle i am able to charge a NiMH-Batteriepack. What charging time for 2500 MAH-Pack for example? Is the cradle still able to charge the original Mag-Batteriepack? Thanks a lot from Germany


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## Xenon (Nov 24, 2005)

habibi said:


> Hi there!
> After i cut the blue resistor inside the charger-cradle i am able to charge a NiMH-Batteriepack. What charging time for 2500 MAH-Pack for example? Is the cradle still able to charge the original Mag-Batteriepack? Thanks a lot from Germany


 

After cutting (shorting?) the blue resistor, what are the indication that shows its charging your NiMh batterypack? 

When I charge 9 cells in the stock magcharger cradle, the red led goes dim, so I believed in your situation the red led will be as bright as charging the stock battery pack?


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## habibi (Nov 24, 2005)

Right! The red led glows the same way charging 6 nimh-akkus in an 6-aa-to-2d-holter (fivemega) or charging the stock mc batteriestick. But after cutting the blue resistor can i charge the stock-batteriestick as usual und what is charging-time for 6 2500mAh nimh-akkus in the fivemega-holder?

Regards
Helmut


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## Alin10123 (Nov 26, 2005)

paulr said:


> Alin, yes, the 5mega reflectors have PR sized holes which are larger than needed for bi-pin bulbs. I don't know about lightedge.
> 
> There are NO nimh cells that are safe to use hot off the charger. Let the cells cool down for a while before use. The mag85 is not consumer-ready technology. For that, you need something like an M6R, which uses an LVR regulator for perfectly flat output and soft bulb start. There are some projects under way to do that without the M6 host, using either a m*g host, a custom host, or some other possibility.



Ok... let me rephrase. 
Any NIMH batteries that have worked really well for anyone for the mag85? 
I was looking at the 2600 Titanium batteries. Would those work? 

Also, what's the approximate runtime on these things?

thanks


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## yellow (Nov 26, 2005)

Hi man,
given You have not solved Your problem already:
there are some adapters to have 110 V gadgets running on 240 V.
Order the Mag somewhere and get an adapter from You local electronics store.
Our prices here suck, too. Normal colored MM € 23,--, 2D Mags starting at 32,-- (more batteries, higer price) 



larry2 said:


> The only difference is the usa ones use a 110V battery charger...
> where it's 240V in australia
> -what voltage does it output ?


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## SilverFox (Nov 26, 2005)

Hello Alin10123,

I am running the Titanium 2600's in mine, and I have heard good results from the Sanyo 2500's. Both cells are giving 40 plus minutes of run time.

Tom


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## DreamScape (Nov 26, 2005)

Yep, I've been using the Sanyo 2500's for 6 months plus now with 40 plus minutes runtime per charge. I use the 3D Mag85 every day. No issues at all. Just let the pack rest after charge. 12.7 volts or below pre load and never had an instaflash. I bought from RipVan100
I'm fortunate to have a couple of the FM 9AA - 3D holders and charge via a ProPeak Mercury EX via the jack connector of the FM pack.
CBP - CheapBatteryPacks 1650 Nimh's are excellent. They are slightly brighter because they don't sag under high current loads. Make sure you leave these to rest after a charge!! A reduced run time of around 20mins though, if I remember rightly.

The Magcharger i have also, but i just use that with the original 6V nicd battery and a 1160. Just sweet as. It's my bedside light. The beam pattern is not so good, artifacts etc. Still the 1160 has supprised me greatly and is not far from the brightness of the 1185!! For most uses it's ideal. Cains/hammers/beats the standard 3D and less so the magcharger so enough said.

Some great advise in the thread so far. It's difficult when some components aren't readly available right now (Kiu's socket, FM 9AA-3D)both awesome and a must for a true Quality/Solid Mag85 in my eyes.

Most of the trial and errors have been done here already over the year or so. So the advise you are getting from this thread is great advise. I couldn't build a Mag85 on a budget due to shipping costs to the UK and from many different suppliers also. Cost a pretty packet all in all.
Several lens, mag hosts, many bulbs, Kiu's sockets, battery holders, many batteries, many reflectors, a charger and power pack. (charger and power pack alone = $250!!!)
I would agree here, you might think about starting with a magcharger. In it's self is ready for it's 1st hotwire mod, a 1160 bulb. Charger ready, is HAIII and not HAII like the 3D mag. Glass lens, metal reflector, laughin'. (You will be when you see how bright it is!! Especially for around $100)

As and when the parts/components come available for the Mag85, away you go.

Here is the link and history to the blue resistor charger mod .

I do hope some of what I have written helps/assists one of you.
Do some searchin' and reading for Mag85 MC60 and Magcharger.
Some of the threads have been edited by the thread starter though.
Most importantly, Experience and Enjoy!!


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## Billy Berue (Nov 26, 2005)

*Can you do a Mag85 with a Mag "C" body?*

Sorry for the noob question, but can you drive the WA1185 (with Kiu's Mag C high temp kit) with a Mag C body? If so, what batt's to use? Can I get by with plain old C size rechargeable NiMH's? Thanks. :thinking:


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## andrewwynn (Nov 26, 2005)

*Re: Can you do a Mag85 with a Mag "C" body?*

short answer is no.. one of the best C body bright lights is putting 2x18650 cells into a 2C light and using the 1111 bulb.. it's awesome bright.. about 40 minutes runtime with 2500mAH cells (or using 6x17500 LiON cells). 

You could use 9 sub-Cs and it might fit in a 5 or 6-C light and run a mag85.. but i'm thinking you are meaning a 2C or 3C light.. in which case.. only way to get the required voltage is LiON which can't handle the current. 

The smallest host i know of that can handle a mag85 is the 1 1/2D 3x168S.. but it's higher current than recommended and protected cells won't take it. 

If you've not used/seen the mag85.. you would be ecstatic with the output of the 1111 bulb direct-drive from 2x18650s.. which is an awesome combo for 2C light. 

-awr


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## Billy Berue (Nov 27, 2005)

*Re: Can you do a Mag85 with a Mag "C" body?*



andrewwynn said:


> short answer is no.. one of the best C body bright lights is putting 2x18650 cells into a 2C light and using the 1111 bulb.. it's awesome bright.. about 40 minutes runtime with 2500mAH cells (or using 6x17500 LiON cells)...
> 
> If you've not used/seen the mag85.. you would be ecstatic with the output of the 1111 bulb direct-drive from 2x18650s.. which is an awesome combo for 2C light.


Thanks, Andrew. Just to be clear, I can install the WA1111 into Kiu's Mag C high temp socket and drop that into a Mag 2C? I suppose I would also need to install an OP aluminum reflector and glass lens. Also, aren't the 18650's skinnier than C cells, so won't they rattle around in there? Will I need a battery holder/tube of some sort? Sorry I'm such a noob.:help:


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## Lightedge (Nov 27, 2005)

Billy,

Good question about batteries rattling around. Most folks here use PVC or something similar to narrow the battery tube. Another nice mod in 3C format is the Welch Allyn 1331 powered by 3xPila 150A's. Similar output as 1111 combo but lower amperage requirement which the Li-Ions will appreciate very much.

All noobies (and maybe others as well),

I'll be building some turnkey Mag85's to sell on my website in the very near future. I just bought a bunch of bodies, FM packs, UCL lenses and batteries and they are being delivered. I've got potted bulbs, bi-pin bulbs and camless reflectors with the small holes in stock on my website now. I'm close to being able to do this. I'll keep you posted.


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## Lightedge (Nov 27, 2005)

*Re: Can you do a Mag85 with a Mag "C" body?*



andrewwynn said:


> short answer is no.. one of the best C body bright lights is putting 2x18650 cells into a 2C light and using the 1111 bulb.. it's awesome bright.. about 40 minutes runtime with 2500mAH cells (or using 6x17500 LiON cells).
> 
> You could use 9 sub-Cs and it might fit in a 5 or 6-C light and run a mag85.. but i'm thinking you are meaning a 2C or 3C light.. in which case.. only way to get the required voltage is LiON which can't handle the current.
> 
> ...



Will 3x18650 cells power the 1185 in a 3C configuration? Also these cells are 65mm length. Is 2x18650 a tight fit in the 2C?

Thanks.


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## andrewwynn (Nov 27, 2005)

*Re: Can you do a Mag85 with a Mag "C" body?*



Billy Berue said:


> Thanks, Andrew. Just to be clear, I can install the WA1111 into Kiu's Mag C high temp socket and drop that into a Mag 2C? I suppose I would also need to install an OP aluminum reflector and glass lens. Also, aren't the 18650's skinnier than C cells, so won't they rattle around in there? Will I need a battery holder/tube of some sort? Sorry I'm such a noob.:help:



everybody starts as a noob 

i absolutely love the 1111 in a 2C light... i just made one two days ago. Actually in my case i just used a PR base 'cause i had some potted 1111s.. I can fix a PR switch to have about 30mohm resistance (1/6th the stock). 

you need to use drain cleaner to remove the anodizing on the inside of the tail cap.. i used a q-tip to rub it off.. it took two passes.. the first time the color came off but there was apparently a clear layer as well it look bare but had no conductivity.

You can get a really nice silver coated spring for $1 at the shoppe.. but i found a nice one at ace hardware. You need to use a spring that will compress completely flat (cone shaped).. there is only like 1-2mm to spare. 

I used a simple piece of white cardboard folded into a 'c' shape to hold my cells and it works perfectly.. most people use some radiator hose or pvc. 

The 'c' size light has no spring on the top (pos side) so you need to have something spring-like at the back.. some people have gotten away with using a piece of metal like bent paperclip but i recommend using an actual spring.. or even rubber band wrapped with aluminum foil will work. 

-awr


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## pertinax (Dec 13, 2005)

So if the 1111 bulb runs well off of 6 batteries, can I buy a Mag 6D light, replace the lens and reflector, and use 6 Titanium D batteries to run it? That is a big light, but wouldn't I get monster run time compared to AAs?

Or can the "D" batteries not source the current?

I bought an 1185 pre-built in 3D, and it's AWESOME. But I would like more run time.

(I recognize ROP is another optional bulb here. I have both 1111 and ROP bulbs on order.)

Pertinax
(yeah, I'm a noob)


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## Lurveleven (Dec 13, 2005)

Yes, you can use 6 D cells to run a WA1111 bulb. D cells are much better at handling large currents than AA cells. I don't have experience with the Titanium cells, but you can usually expect 5 to 6 times as long runtime with D cells as AA cells. You will probably get around 2.5 hours runtime with good D cells and the WA1111 bulb.

Sigbjoern


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