# TerraLUX Maxstar5 K2 5W U BIN LED for Maglite**Got mine Today**



## mhubble (Dec 8, 2006)

I originally posted this in the original thread from BATTERJUNCTION but it got lost in the shuffle.

Well I got mine today, thanks for the fast shipping. Installation is simple. Just screw it on. I put it in a 5 "C" Cell. Its definetly brighter than the maglite bulb. But not as bright as I thought it would be. I was also hoping for a bigger hotspot. The hotspot on the terralux is just a little bigger than the maglite bulb. About 12" at 20 feet. Very white though. As soon as it gets dark Ill check the throw. If it gets even close to the run times they are talking about its well worth the money. Thanks Terralux and BATTERYJUNCTION.

Just took it out to check the throw........DAMN!!!!!! This thing is got the longest throw Ive ever seen. I was lighting up trees more than 100 yards away. The Terralux is ALOT better at throw than the MAGLED. At 25-30 yards the hot spot is about 8 feet in diameter and pure white. At 100 yards its just a little bigger. Im really impressed with this bulb. Its well worth the money.


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## Burgess (Dec 8, 2006)

Thank you for the report, mhubble.

Any chance you can give us the "current draw"
on new Alkaline cells ?

Looking forward to any other insights you can offer.


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## mhubble (Dec 8, 2006)

> Any chance you can give us the "current draw"
> on new Alkaline cells ?


 
Tell me how to do it and Ill try.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 8, 2006)

Here are my MaxStar5 measurements with fresh Duracell Alkalines. I used a 4D flashlight and stacked up the proper number of cells. Then I used a DMM on the 10A scale at the tailcap for 15 seconds.

6D cells 400 mA
5D cells 460 mA
4D cells 540 mA
3D cells 420 mA

These measurements don't make a whole lot of sense at first glance. But I can tell you I verified them three times!


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## EngrPaul (Dec 8, 2006)

Here are the wattages pulled out of the batteries from my measurements above. These numbers all assume 1.5V per cell.

6D 3.60 W
5D 3.45 W
4D 3.24 W
3D 1.89 W

I don't think the emitter is getting 5W, unless the law of Energy Conservation is broken by this drop-in


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## EngrPaul (Dec 8, 2006)

One more prediction. Since a good Alkaline D cell has 20500 mA*h, expect the following life for flat regulation:

6D 51.2 hours
5D 44.6 hours
4D 38.0 hours
3D 48.8 hours

However, I have no idea at what voltage the 3D cell flashlight will kick out at. I have the feeling this drop-in isn't appropriate for 3D mags.

For comparison sake, the TLE-DB3 drop-in for 3 cell mags uses 620 mA with 3D cells. That's 2.79 W for 33.1 hours of operation.

This explains why my comparison of beamshots between the 3W(3D) and 5W(4D) weren't much different. The MaxStar5 was running at only 16% higher wattage, which is linearly extrapolated to only 16% more light output.


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## mhubble (Dec 8, 2006)

I would like to see somebody from Teralux or Batteryjunction explain the readings you got. As little as I know it doesnt make any sense to me either.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 8, 2006)

Let me see if I can get simultaneous current and voltage readings at the device to get a more precise wattage result... stay tuned.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 8, 2006)

6D 8.73 V at .40A (3.49W)
5D 7.24 V at .46A (3.33W)
4D 5.76 V at .54A (3.11W)
3D 4.36 V at .42A (1.83W) ...Visibly dimmer & cooler to the touch

mhubble, ignore the amps drawn. The watts tell you how much energy is being used. The 3D should be using around 2.9-3.0 watts if the device was working consistently.

All the wattages should be around 6 if the emitter is delivering a true 5W.

Battery used: Duracell MN1300


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## SuperTorch (Dec 8, 2006)

Weird. Maybe its the BIN and K2 that gets more lumens per watt so even at a 3 watt draw it'll be 25% brighter than a Luxeon 3Watt. This sure is different than what Matt was told, TerraLUX said it should run at around 1000mA if my info is right, I just want the brightest Mag Drop in I can get, if this is it then fine. What is the draw of a Direct Drive drop in, I know Newbie did a draw on the MAG 2D led at starting about 1250mA but with in 5-10 minutes or so it went to about 450mA. Your info does bare out the fact that you need a 4 cell light or 6V to keep it in high gear.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 8, 2006)

SuperTorch said:


> Your info does bare out the fact that you need a 4 cell light or 6V to keep it in high gear.


 
Probably 5 cells minimum if you want to use NiMH batteries!!


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## EngrPaul (Dec 8, 2006)

with 4D cells, I'm get 3.35 V at the emitter. (At 15 seconds)

At 100% efficiency of the driver, it would be 930 mA. Derate as you see fit.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 8, 2006)

Your useing alkalines right?


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## EngrPaul (Dec 8, 2006)

New Copper Tops!

_Here are my MaxStar5 measurements with fresh Duracell Alkalines..._


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## SuperTorch (Dec 8, 2006)

duhh, I was so focused on the numbers I never looked at the batt types. Can't wait for graph info and light output numbers.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 9, 2006)

_The MaxStar5 operates the LED between 3.5 to 4 Watts over the range of 5-9 Volts. It drops to 3 Watts at 4.5 Volts and gradually decreases to about 3 Volts where it shuts down. The circuitry reduces the battery voltage to accommodate a constant current thru the LED, but as the battery voltage falls, the circuit steps out of the way, and does not shut the unit off abruptly as the Mag circuit does. So the current through the LED is 1.1 Amps over most of the voltage range. At 4.5 Volts about 0.9 Amps is still going thru the LED._

*This is a quote of the specs. In comparison, my device is significantly underperforming.*


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## mhubble (Dec 9, 2006)

Sorry I havent been around, My internet has been down since last night. Thanks for all the great info. I think this afternoon Im going to start a runtime test and see how this bulb performs. Ill keep you all posted.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 9, 2006)

mhubble,

Glad to have you back!

Can you perform current/voltage measurements like I did, before doing the runtime? Let's see if your device is running to the same specs as mine.


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## Jaygnar (Dec 9, 2006)

I would be interested to see some beamshots of this bulb in action if anyone has any or knows of any links to some. :rock:
I would also like to see a side by side comparison between the 4d Magled and this bulb.
That and the current/ voltage comparison between the bulbs that each of you have. 
Not trying to be demanding or anything.:lolsign:


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## EngrPaul (Dec 9, 2006)

If anyone would like to host several pictures, I could provide the following beamshots comparisons:

Stock incandescent 3D mag
TLE-DB3 on 3D cells
TLE-6K2 on 3D cells
Stock incandescent 4D mag
TLE-6K2 on 4D cells

PM me if you are interested. The beamshots will be made after the sun goes down on the east coast.


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## mhubble (Dec 9, 2006)

> Can you perform current/voltage measurements like I did, before doing the runtime? Let's see if your device is running to the same specs as mine.


 
If youll tell me what to do I can try. Ive got a good DMM but that doesnt mean I know how to use it. I did the test on the tailcap and batteries and for 5 C batteries I got 3.41 W. The batteries are DURACELL ULTRA. Three of them measure 1.5 and two measure 1.55. I know just enough about this stuff to be dangerous. But Im willing to learn.

EDIT - When all else fails read the instructions. I got another reading after reading the instructions for my DMM. 

5C CELLS - 459mA


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## EngrPaul (Dec 9, 2006)

mhubble,

Turn the switch on and remove the tailcap.

Set the DMM on DC amperes, the highest setting available. On my DMM, this was 10A, which required that the (+) lead be plugged into a different receptacle on the DMM.

Place the (-) wire on the last battery, and the (+) wire on the battery tube.

Do this for 3, 4, 5, and 6 cells. Provide the current measurements, that's enough info to see whether or not our devices are consistent.


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## mhubble (Dec 9, 2006)

ENGRPAUL, Thanks for the instruction. Heres what I got.


6 C CELL - 390mA
5 C CELL - 459mA
4 C CELL - 535mA
3 C CELL - 420mA

Thats pretty close to what you got.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 9, 2006)

mhubble said:


> ENGRPAUL, Thanks for the instruction. Heres what I got.
> 
> 
> 6 C CELL - 390mA
> ...


 
Fantastic! So we've confirmed the consistency, and the current doesn't really matter whether using C or D batteries.


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## mhubble (Dec 9, 2006)

Ive got to run to town ,when I get back Ill start the run time test.


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## mhubble (Dec 9, 2006)

Run time test was started at 12:45pm EST. Ran it for a solid hour with no change in brightness, and no heat. Turned it off for 30 min and checked the batteries. 3 of the batteries have dropped mto 1.36 volts and two have dropped to 1.44 volts. Im going to run it for 2 hours now. 

This part I dont get, Not that I really know what Im doing, I did the test again that ENGRPAUL told me how to do. The readings went up. 

5 C CELL - 490mA
4 C CELL - 625mA

I only tested those two configurations.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 9, 2006)

If the drop-in is good at regulating power to the emitter, the current from the batteries will increase as the voltage of the batteries decreases.

If you are good at math, consider that power = voltage * current. If power is constant, then voltage is inversely proportional to current.


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## mhubble (Dec 9, 2006)

> If the drop-in is good at regulating power to the emitter, the current from the batteries will increase as the voltage of the batteries decreases.
> 
> If you are good at math, consider that power = voltage * current. If power is constant, then voltage is inversely proportional to current.




Now I understand why the readings went up. Thanks ENGRPAUL


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## SuperTorch (Dec 9, 2006)

I guess this will be the "GOT MINE" Owners thread- I'd preffer one thread - its easier, but anyhow - GOT MINE

A few things I've done and noticed, this thing gets HHOOTT, I have other 3Watts but they don't heat up like this K2, if you take the MAG head off and turn on the light, with-in 2-3 minutes you will not be able to hold your finger on the copper housing it so hot. So I guess its not that the K2 doesn't produce incredible heat but "Suppoesedly" can handle it better(yet to be proven). Looking at the bare emiter with no reflector on, its looks ALOT brighter than looking at my 3 Watt emiter with no reflector. The K2 will burn the retinas for a longer period of time, on my 3 watts I recover from retina burn in about 2 minutes with this one it about 4-5 minutes before my eyes relax again. 

The fiting of the copper housing is more pistion perfect than the original bulb housing, it looks great but I can see where this caused a problem. Matt said that at maximun current(which is I bet what they wanted to do) it was melting the MAG reflector so they had to back it down to be safe and not ruin everybodys MAG. The problem is that it fits too well, imo for the pistion it would have been better to make it as small as possible so it never touches the reflector wall or reduce the copper houseing enough to put a thermal insulator around it so it doesnt transfer heat to the relector. As tight as the fit is and as hot as it gets I can see how they had to limit current and beleave it would melt the reflector. Reducing the piston head is very hard to do with the MAG the way its built but not impossible and would require a little more installation skill, they should have designed it were it fits inside the bulb barrel with just friction and maybe a screw to tighten it in and got rid of screwing on like the MAG bulb does, then the copper top heat sink could have be reduced so far that it would have plenty of air between it and the relector to crank up the current. Copper heat sink right up against the reflector not good for MAX output but looks good and won't be a problem with the MAxStar5 since its current is reduced some.

I tried it in a MAG 2D and not surprising it wouldn't turn on. I dont have another MAG Drop in to compare to but I thought it would have a bigger hot spot also, but thats just my lack of understanding what I was geting, Its WHITE for sure. And the output is pretty good the MAG has a perfect way of giving you sidespill to navigate while the hot spot can penitrate deep in creveses. Its not worth me luging around a 4D for its intended function but in the 2D 2xLithium D set up I'm headed for it will be fine. I plan on geting a 2D MAG LED and I'll see how they compare and let you know next week. I'll play with it tonite after dark to test the throw but I can tell it'll throw pertty far. I'm happy with it as long as it will works when I pair it with the 2 3.0v Lithium D's. The more I'm realizing what I should have expected and what I got, Im happy with it. WHITE LIGHT, Great side spill, great throw = very good light. The biggest down fall of the MAxStar5 to me is you NEED to have 4-6 cells and 5-6 is the best and thats just too big of a requirement for a 2D lover, I was willing to go 3cells now I'm at 4 and I know current wise 5-6 is probably best. Still evaluating and will have further thoughts and like others want to see the graphs and lumens output numbers. Not blown away but no regrets either at this point and I'll have my MAG with tempered glass lens ready to go when a Cree XR-E pops up. The ONLY way I would send it back is if the MAG 2D LED was as WHITE and as BRIGHT then I'd just do a store credit, the marketing(like all marketing) can be a tad misleading when I saw this I thought wow a regualted MAG K2 the BRIGHTEST I can own outside of up coming Cree's and maybe with graphs and munbers it'll bare that out. To be truthful someone should be designing a Lux 5 in a MAG drop in, sure they don't last as long but at 500 hours you'd got your moneys worth, and by that time the LED industry would have moved on for you to want to upgrade anyhow.

If I adjust the throw spot of the K2 to the same size as my 3W TaskForce(which is a very nice bright light) I can see the MaxStar5 is about 1.5x brighter and HAS lots OF Side Spill where the TF3W has virtual none, so in an instand on judgement the MaxStar5 is noticable brighter.


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## mhubble (Dec 9, 2006)

I completed 2 more hours of the run time test. Still just as bright as when I began. The batteries have dropped to 1.30 to 1.35 volts. The current is still increasing.

5C CELL - 537mA
4C CELL - 497mA

Im not having any heat problems at all like SUPERTORCH. In fact Im shocked at how cool this thing is. I ran it for 2 hours non stop and the mineral glass lens wasnt even warm to the touch. I took the lens off because it looked like one side of the reflector was getting discolored. It was just barely warm. It really wasnt dicolored, more like it had fogged up. I wiped it off and its fine. I even unscrewed the bulb. It was warm but not at all hot. Might run it some more later tonight. Ill keep you posted.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 9, 2006)

How do you find the tint? Comparing against the TLE-DB3, it's somewhat rosy. I don't think it has anything to do with the drop-in's physical color.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 9, 2006)

Mine at 1:45 seconds I can not hold my finger on it for 1 second - VERY VERY HOT.

510mA at 4.87V 4D Mag with fresh Coppertops, weird that mine is scallding what about yours heatwise EngrPaul?

Huh... for 4 fresh Ds 4.87 is low, If I have the MAG clicked ON and the tail cap off I'm putting the positive on the body end edge and the negitive on the battery and geting a Voltage of 4.87 but shouldn't the light come on when I close the circuit to get that voltage reading? My light is not coming on but I am geting a voltage reading. It comes on like it should when I get the mA reading.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 9, 2006)

It was too hot to touch after about a minute, with 4 cells or more.


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## mhubble (Dec 9, 2006)

That is very weird, mine is doing what they said it would do, yours is getting way to hot. Batteryjunction...You got any ideas on this?


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## mhubble (Dec 9, 2006)

I wonder if its got anything to do with the fact you two are using 4 D and Im using 5 C? We need more people to post what theirs is doing.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 9, 2006)

Shouldn't really matter 4D or 5C both are supplying the volts and the current, sound like you may have an exceptional one.


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## etc (Dec 9, 2006)

Please post some pics vs. the 3W MagLED module.


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## ace0001a (Dec 9, 2006)

I got mine today and dropped it into my 4D Mag. First thing I noticed off that bat is that I can't focus it as tight as other LED drop-ins. Even at the tightest I can focus it, there is a small hole in the center and at 10 feet away it gets even more noticeable. Have any of you noticed that? Generally I'm not a stickler for beam pattern quality in general, but it just seems odd I can't focus mines into a really tight spot like other LEDs. I hope I didn't get a defective one...


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## mhubble (Dec 9, 2006)

Mine is the same way but only out to about 3 feet, past that it closes up.

Does your light get real hot also?


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## EngrPaul (Dec 9, 2006)

Here is my measurements using an infrared thermometer

4D cells, alkaline, candle mode. I had used a little "anti seize" lubricant on the threads in hope this would conduct some of the heat into the mag better.

minutes - temp °F
0 70
1 83
2 106
3 131
4 144
5 153
6 163
7 175
8 177
9 183
10 189
11 188
12 193
13 188


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## ace0001a (Dec 9, 2006)

Ok, I tightened it a little more...I didn't want to break it by overtightening it. It focuses a little better now. I ran it for like a minute, unscrewed the head and it felt pretty hot. I am little concerned on whether the reflector will melt over time. Somehow I think I was expecting more from this drop-in. It's bright and I will leave it in my 4D Mag. I have several 2, 3 and 4D Maglites as part of my collection. I agree with Supertorch in the idea that a 4D light is not something ideal to lug around...even 3D is a little big, but I like the 3D size. My favorite drop-in modded Mags are my 3D with a PowerLEDsDE (Germany) Tri-LuxIII and 6-Cell LuxV in a 2D with 2 3AA to 1D carriers and Heavy Stipple Aluminum Reflector. I also put mineral glass lenses on my Mags.


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## mhubble (Dec 9, 2006)

Ive kept my 5 C maglite in my jeep for more than 10 years now. I like the C size better because its lighter and easier to hang on too. 

I dont understand why evrybodies is getting so hot and mine is not. Surely it cant be luck of the draw.

Batteryjunction or Terralux needs to chime in on this.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 9, 2006)

ace0001a,Your LUX V sounds very interesting how bright is it and where did you get the refector, that sounds like killer set up but I'd go with AA carriers. Post a link to the LUX V bulb you useing and carriers if you remember where you got them.

I went and bought a 2D MAG LED, I'm going to let it, the MAxStar5 and my TF3W run for 20 minutes then I will test the throw of all 3. I can tell you this at about 2 minutes on my TaskForce 3W 2C Cell is just proving itself all over again. The beam is way more useful than an ultra spot focused MAG and when you unfocus the MAG it is no better if not worse than the TaskForce 3W. The TF3W has tremendious throw for a medium spot set up, the Mags do punch farther but not when focused at the same diameter which is a truely useful 15 degrees where the tight focused mag is at about 5 degrees, unfocus the Mags at all and the thrill goes right out the window, the TaskForce is useful and thrilling everytime I turn it on, so will se. So I'll be back on with the results of eyeballing it after 20 minutes of heat for all 3.


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## mhubble (Dec 9, 2006)

> unfocus the Mags at all and the thrill goes right out the window


 
I agree 100 %. 

The foucusing part of the maglite has always been useless in my opinion. Even with the MAGLED bulbs. I think they need to do something different with the reflector.

Im getting off here for the night but Im going to run my 5 C CELL MAXSTAR5 all night if it will do it. Ill let you know in the morning what happens.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 9, 2006)

Ok heres my thoughts, The MaxStar5 no doubt held its output higher than the Mag Brand 2D LED, but not by much. The 2D is known to have just 2/3rd the light output of the MaxStar5 so it shouldn't be as bright, but the 2D Mag should even cut that in half once on for over 5 minutes, but in reality the MAG 2D LED after 20 minutes of being on just looked 75-50% as bright as the MaxStar5 so it held up better than expected. The MaxStar5 on a cold start and long burn is at least a lot brighter than the Mag 2D LED Drop in. So if we use FLR numbers I'd say the MaxStar5 is throwing on a tight focus 9500lux and seems to be keeping quite a bit of it after being on for 20 minutes, that seems to be better than any Mag drop in out there, but I don't own a 3W Drop in besides the Mag brand. But if FLR is saying the 2D Mag throws 6800lux then I'd guess the MaxStar5 is at least 9000lux+ and may be higher I got the gut felling the MaxStar5 went to about 7500 lux once hot, the MAxStar5 once hot is brighter than a Mag LED 2D 3W from a cold start, so I feel its kinda doing as advertised. I consider both to be pretty good with the MaxStar5 having some real throw ability even when hot.The MaxStar5 is nice and I'm keeping it for its ability to throw when needed but thats only because I can get 2 D lithiums and put it in my car, I like its output. If I hadn't found out that I could fit it in a 2D then I'd be sending it back because for a 4D for me no way its worth it, but a portable 2D thrower is nice to have.

Now heres the real point I learned. The Lowes TaskForce 3W 2C and the AAP3W(Both basically the very same light, and raved by a lot of us) are just monster values. They have KILLER BEAMS, MONSTER THROWSs in a 2C set up, useing LUXEON 3's, with batteries and a shieth for $19.88/AAP3W to $29.95/ Lowes TaskForce 3W. I've posted the links to both threads read them top to bottom if you don't own a Lowes TaskForce 3W or the AAP3W. After turning on the Mags and punching a tight 6ft beam hole at some trees 150 feet away I used the Lowes TaskForce 3W and it lit up the whole tree like a serch light should, With the Mags you have to hunt your target with the Lowes TaskForce 3W your target had better hide because it can produce a 20ft beam 75% as bright as the Mags in tight Focus. There are people that own the TaskForce who will let you know it rocks. After bringing in the Mag BigBoys whom were talking alot of poop the Lowes 2C TaskForce 3W bloodied some seroius noses as to who would be the ToyStory favorite flashlight under my roof. The MaxStar5 is very keepable and has its place but the Lowes TaskForce is still the PIMP. Kinda Shocking to me really and teaches me I love Collimator lenses.

I like the MaxStar5 and I'm keeping it, but it has limited uses.

Just to reiterate if you don't own a Lowes TaskForce 3W then read the threads below and do you self a favor and pick one of the two up. The people who love them are not crazy and they are not that expensive, and you too can be like DAMN thats a nice beam and flashlight.






https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/136300&highlight=taskforce

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/139870


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## SuperTorch (Dec 9, 2006)

ace0001a said:


> I got mine today and dropped it into my 4D Mag. First thing I noticed off that bat is that I can't focus it as tight as other LED drop-ins. Even at the tightest I can focus it, there is a small hole in the center and at 10 feet away it gets even more noticeable. Have any of you noticed that? Generally I'm not a stickler for beam pattern quality in general, but it just seems odd I can't focus mines into a really tight spot like other LEDs. I hope I didn't get a defective one...


 
This surpriese me but I have noticed that one rotation of the head 360 degrees can produce a tight beam. The reason I suspect is that you are moving the LED by one threads lenth in the relector, so try to move it up/down a few threads and maybe that will help. Mine in one thread is oval in tight focus but more round a spot one threads height higher in thight focus.


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## ace0001a (Dec 9, 2006)

SuperTorch said:


> ace0001a,Your LUX V sounds very interesting how bright is it and where did you get the refector, that sounds like killer set up but I'd go with AA carriers. Post a link to the LUX V bulb you useing and carriers if you remember where you got them.


 
PowerLEDs' LuxV Dropin:
http://www.powerleds.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p68_Luxeon-V-LED-Upgrade-Maglite-5---6-Cell.html

Fivemega's Dual Function Aluminum Reflector:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=112185&page=1

3AA to 1D Battery Carrier Thread:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/127407&highlight=litemania


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## mhubble (Dec 10, 2006)

Good morning all. 

Well I ran my 5 C CELL last night for about 5 hours. It ran non stop from 10 pm to 3 am...............with NO DROP IN BRIGHTNESS. Im amazed. It never got hot. It just barely got warm after 5 hours. But when it comes to heat so far Im the only one not having problems. 

I just checked the batteries and after resting for 5 hours they are all reading around 1.30 volts. Now remember these batteries have run this light for a total of 8 HOURS.

Like SUPERTORCH said this is a good upgrade for the Maglite but it has its limits. Battery life is the best Ive ever seen. Very bright. The best throw Ive ever seen. But way too focused. Reminds me of the searchlights we used to have on tanks back in the late 70's. But I believe tightness of the beam is MAGLITES fault. Thats why Im going to try one of FIVEMEGAS reflectors and see what happens. (Im spending way too much money in here). I also agree with SUPERTORCH on the taskforce and advanced auto 3 watt lights. Ive got both, for the money you cant beat them. 

Its time for TERRALUX or BATTERYJUNCTION to come in here answer some of our concerns. Especially the heat problems people are having.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 10, 2006)

For clarity, the body of the drop-in reached those temperatures, not the body of the flashlight.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 10, 2006)

ace0001a said:


> Fivemega's Dual Function Aluminum Reflector:
> http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=112185&page=1


 
Thanks ace. I need to have a better beam at close range and chose the heavily stippled reflectors. 

Currently I can illuminate a house 3 streets down, but I don't really need that.


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## mhubble (Dec 10, 2006)

> Originally Posted by *ace0001a*
> _
> Fivemega's Dual Function Aluminum Reflector:
> http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/sho...t=112185&page=1
> _


 
+1 Thanks Ace, Just ordered one also.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 10, 2006)

mhubble said:


> Like SUPERTORCH said this is a good upgrade for the Maglite but it has its limits. Battery life is the best Ive ever seen. Very bright. The best throw Ive ever seen. *But way too focused*. Reminds me of the searchlights we used to have on tanks back in the late 70's. But I believe tightness of the beam is MAGLITES fault. *Thats why Im going to try one of FIVEMEGAS reflectors* and see what happens. (*Im spending way too much money in here*). I also agree with SUPERTORCH on the taskforce and advanced auto 3 watt lights. Ive got both, for the money you cant beat them.
> 
> Its time for TERRALUX or BATTERYJUNCTION to come in here answer some of our concerns. Especially the heat problems people are having. Engrpaul's light was at 193 degrees after only 12 min. Thats very dangerous and makes the light pretty useless.


 
I'd love one of the custom reflectors, but I really got to measure up how much I want to spend/put into it with Cree XR-Es on the way. I bought the MaxStar5 as a hold over for 6 months for that very reason. If I got one of the custom reflectors and it widend the spot at the cost of output/throw then Im back to now having no killer throw even though I may like it. I'd love to see some beam shots of what the refelctor does. If it doubles the size of a focused mag then that would be about perfect, but I want to see some beam shots. I've loccated some 2AA to D holders at 4.5V each so I should get 4 hours runtime out of that which is fine for me till I have to buy new AA, so I have now got the 2D set up I want. Im just like every body though the hot spot of the MAG is to small, I thought Id be able to adjust it to my liking but it either totaly small or nothing you'd want to use. I noticed a Husky 2D LED light while at Home Depot and they have the reflector flat around the LED to about the size of a dime then the angled walls af the reflector are steeper. While this is a fixed focus lens I'm think they have is set perfet for a larger hot spot thats more uniform. The coustom refelector sound interesting but need some beam shots from whos selling them. mHubble if yours is not geting hot then you did just get an exceptional one, Out of my 4 3Watts I own 3 get pretty hot but one thats the same kind is only about 50% as hot when it runs(just warm). I don't think the heat is an issue(I could be wrong) as most high watt leds get pretty hot. One thing I did notice on mine when I fist put it in didn't come on for like 30 seconds, then one click it did and has ever since so I don't know what that about but its working. I'd love a better relector becaasue we know MAGs will be here for ever so if I got a LED designed reflector that'd be sweet, but I'm going to have to know it rocks before I buy it. My next mod will be a Cree XR-E into my TaskForce, I'm just waiting for the Q bins to come out.



COOL I see you guys have paid on the reflectors can't wait to hear your thoughts, hopefull they will be the ultimate upgrade. I won't have the funds till Wednesday anyhow, but glad to hear were going to give them a good test with the MaxStar5 :thumbsup:


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## MattK (Dec 10, 2006)

Gents,

Regarding the question of current - and correct me if I'm wrong - but isn't measuring between the batteries/ tailcap meaningless? My understanding is that to get a correct measurement you'd have to desolder one side of the LED then connect the meter between the ends you had just seperated. Putting the multi-meter in series with the power supplied to the LED. I've already run one here for over 10 hours and it was never even close to too hot to hold - warm yes, but I have plenty of 3/5 and K2 LED lights that get much, much hotter. The K2 is running much cooler than a LUX II would at similar output and the KEY to remember is that the major advantage of the K2 isn't that it just runs cooler but that heat soak doesn't occur at the temps it runs at in the same extreme way it does with a LuxIII which drops 1/2 of it's lumens.

mhubble - it's the weekend and EngrPaul is measuring heat on the heat sink of the emitter - not on the flashlight. The Luxeon allowable use is 150C at 1000mah- that's nearly 300F. According to the Luxeon spec output at 189F/87C = over 85%.

Fors most of you you're reporting the brightest, whitest, most far throwing LED/LED Ugrapde you've ever seen - which is what we expected.

Regarding beam focus look at how far down you've screwed it. I had a similar issue until I realized it wasn't screwed down far enough.

SuperTorch - there's been a few LuxV upgrades on the market - they usually cost $70-90 and took away the ability to focus the Mag because they needed a Fraen collimator for the LuxV). They were never a great success, had terrible heat issues and we generaly told anyone who asked to buy a 3W unit for 1/3-1/4 the priceit performed 90% as well - better in some ways.

I don't know of a high flux LED that won't be hot if you put your finger on it - cmon guys.


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## mhubble (Dec 10, 2006)

Mattk,Thanks for chiming in and answering a few questions.



> Fors most of you you're reporting the brightest, whitest, most far throwing LED/LED Ugrapde you've ever seen - which is what we expected.


 
Theres no doubt its all of that and more. Im very happy with mine. I think the biggest question I have is why is the 3 other lights in this thread are running hot and mine is not. And please remember Im new at this. Im just barely keeping up in this thread. But Im learning alot!!


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## MattK (Dec 10, 2006)

both SuperTorch and EngrPaul are reporting the LED or LED Housing (heat sink) as running hot - not their flashlights. All light sources currently known to man create heat as a byproduct - the more efficient they are the more light they produce per watt and the less heat (byrpoduct).

I have an easy fix - don't touch the LED or the LED housing. Also, by removing the head of the flashlight they're removing a large amount of the flashlights heatsinking surface - another contributor. 

I haven't seen one post saying the flashlight, under normal usage circumstances getrs hot. I've run a unit here for over 10 hrs and it didn't get hot. Warm? Sure. Uncomfortably hot? Not at all. Also remember normally a flashlight is held in ones hand which provides it's own water-cooling system ystem - the human circulatory system.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 10, 2006)

MattK said:


> Gents,
> 
> Regarding the question of current - and correct me if I'm wrong - but isn't measuring between the batteries/ tailcap meaningless?


 
Matt,

Watts is a product of current and voltage. Watts is a measure of energy. This is convenient, because energy cannot be created or destroyed (in a flashlight anyway :laughing: )

The output in Watts to the emitter *MUST* be less than or equal to the input from the batteries. In fact the efficiency of the driver is a ratio of (Power Out) / (Power In).

Therefore, we can accurately measure the maximum Watts possibly being consumed by the emitter, without ever desoldering the emitter. By multiplying the battery voltage times battery current, we have the power into the driver.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 10, 2006)

I do not feel the flashlight is running hot. I believe my temperature measurements verify the operating temperatures are safe. 

I even ran the flashlight for 10 minutes with the reflector on, then unscrewed it to check the temperature. It was still around 190°F.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 10, 2006)

MattK said:


> Fors most of you you're reporting the brightest, whitest, most far throwing LED/LED Ugrapde you've ever seen - which is what we expected.


 
Not in 3 cell configuration. The TLE-DB3 outperforms it in color and intensity. 

Both drop-ins I have "throw" equally when focused properly.


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## asdalton (Dec 10, 2006)

mhubble said:


> Well I ran my 5 C CELL last night for about 5 hours. It ran non stop from 10 pm to 3 am...............with NO DROP IN BRIGHTNESS. Im amazed. It never got hot. It just barely got warm after 5 hours. But when it comes to heat so far Im the only one not having problems.
> 
> I just checked the batteries and after resting for 5 hours they are all reading around 1.30 volts. Now remember these batteries have run this light for a total of 8 HOURS.



Has anyone tested this drop-in on 4 cell vs. 5 cell lights to see if there is a difference in performance? 

I put mine into at 4C Mag, and I can say that 1) it gets very hot, 2) it definitely is no better in output or throw than my 3D MagLED, and 3) its output also drops over time almost as quickly as the 3D MagLED.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 10, 2006)

Our eyes can only tell us so nuch that why we need the graphs, and the first Diamond K2 has thrown us for a loop because if K2's handle heat better than why did it drop so horrificaly, direct drive or not the graph should have been better than a Diamond 3W even if not buy much. EngrPaul I guess I missed that yours did not preform as good as your drop in at start time, how about after your drop in has been on for 20 minutes, other have said right out of the gate its been better than their 3W drop ins. Regarding heat mine is just what I said so hot I can't touch it, but that would be the case at about 150f degrees, So I am by no means stating that its runing hoter than it should. I'd have more blues if I'd paid $39.95 but at just $28.50 - $3.50 more than a non-regulated 3Watt I feel pretty good, I just wanted more output maybe, it doesnt feel like as much as the incandesent that come with the MAG when it should, yes the throw is very good but any 3 watt focused down to 5% tight beam will have very high throw. Now Im onto how mhubble and EngrPaul custom reflectors help out. I feel I've got the best Mag bulb for a 2D Mag since I have solved the voltage issue with the AA adapter. I was never looking for incredible runtimes 3 hours of 90% light per set of batteries is fine by me.


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## mhubble (Dec 10, 2006)

> I put mine into at 4C Mag, and I can say that 1) it gets very hot, 2) it definitely is no better in output or throw than my 3D MagLED, and 3) its output also drops over time almost as quickly as the 3D MagLED.


 
Interesting. Im going out of town for a couple of days but when I get back Im going to take the maxstar5 I have in my 5 C CELL and try it in a 3 C CELL I have. Im still wondering why some get hot and some dont. And I know that the heat is within acceptable ranges, but why the big difference. 

Has anybody else had a drop in output like ASDALTON did?

Ill be back in a couple of days to see what the 3 C CELL will do.


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## ace0001a (Dec 10, 2006)

SuperTorch said:


> I'd love one of the custom reflectors, but I really got to measure up how much I want to spend/put into it with Cree XR-Es on the way. I bought the MaxStar5 as a hold over for 6 months for that very reason. If I got one of the custom reflectors and it widend the spot at the cost of output/throw then Im back to now having no killer throw even though I may like it.


 
Guys, the Heavy Stipple reflector does wonders to smooth out the beam and give you more "useable" light for short range use. With that said, it does cut into the throw. So it really depends on your useage of the light.


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## asdalton (Dec 10, 2006)

mhubble said:


> Ill be back in a couple of days to see what the 3 C CELL will do.



I already tried it in a 3D Mag. The output is much lower, although I expected this. The performance on 4 cells is almost indistinguishable from the 3D MagLED, except that I suspect that this K2 drop-in is wasting a lot more power.

By the way, I just rigged up a fifth C cell on the end of my 4C Mag to see if the output would improve. Nope. Overall, this is quite disappointing compared to the MagLED.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 10, 2006)

Well the 2D LED Mag numbers are with 10% starting out of the MAg 3D LED if you use FLR numbers. I know my MaxStar5 was way brighter than the 2D and our eyes shouldn't be able to see it really untill at least 25% more light. It was obvious in the throw comparisions. Out in the Dark the TerraLUX MaxStar5 seemed 50-100% brighter than the MAG 2D LED. Since I don't have a MAG 3W 3Cell LED I can't say but the numbers are never more than 25% for the most part different at FLR. My MaStar5 has is a lot brighter than the MAG 2 D at tight focus but once unfocused it isn't puting out much imo, I'd bet my TaskForce 3W if focused into a 5degree beam it be just as bright and maybe more. TerraLUX would have a output graph by now, that they could email MattK.


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## Phased_Array (Dec 11, 2006)

Well I got mine... and the beamshot results was that the MagLED 'drop in' was visually whiter, tighter and brighter than the MaxStar5. 
This was with new Coppertops in Mag3D's, here it is.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 11, 2006)

asdalton said:


> I suspect that this K2 drop-in is wasting a lot more power.


 
Why?


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## SuperTorch (Dec 11, 2006)

Phased_Array said:


> Well I got mine... and the beamshot results was that the MagLED 'drop in' was visually whiter, tighter and brighter than the MaxStar5.
> This was with new Coppertops in Mag3D's, here it is.


 
Nice Post How Long were each on? I take it this right off the start, 3Watt is brighter there for sure. How do they compare 5 minutes in, 10 minutes in, 15 minutes in, 30 minutes in. Lots of work I know but your da man - You can duuueee it.


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## Phased_Array (Dec 11, 2006)

SuperTorch,
Sorry... I'm a tight throw guy not a duration guy. Maybe I'll try a 4-6D to give it an even chance with the MagLED


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## SuperTorch (Dec 11, 2006)

Oh I didn't even see that yea we know the output is down with 3Ds. Try to just let both run for 15 minutes(maxStar5 in a 4D or higher det up), they should have reached max heat by then and compare. Again You can Duuuue it.(Rob Schneider Voice)


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## Phased_Array (Dec 11, 2006)

SuperTorch,

Tried the MaxStar5 in all Mag3-6D bodies, not worth posting pics, the results are the same. MaxStar5 comes in a second place to the MagLED. It's more equivalent to the Mag2D LED output.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 11, 2006)

Phased,

Are you saying the MagLED 3D is outperforming the MaxStar5 with 4-6 cells?


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## SuperTorch (Dec 11, 2006)

Thanks for the info, it is brighter than the MAg 2D LED I own, but I'd expect that. It seems to be at max a 3.0 watt LED to my eyes.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 11, 2006)

EngrPaul, thats what he's saying for his. He may have won the luxeon lottery with his MAg 3W 3 Cell LED or have a very low output MaxStar5.


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## MattK (Dec 11, 2006)

Graphs you say?


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## MattK (Dec 11, 2006)

Regarding that beamshot right now all I can say is Luxeon Lottery. I don't have a MagLED to try it against here but it's definitely brighter than the 3W DA-3W I tested it against - and a T-bin is a T-bin (which means it could be a T, S or U) 
I've seen plenty of posts here saying it was the whitest/brightest they've ever seen so one beamshot doesn't exactly tell the whole story. I'd love to see a beashot after they've both been on for say hmm 30 minutes too. 

SuperTorch - Wattage is a measure of consumption, not output. Retina burn is not a measure of output. Putting your finger on an LED is not a valid measurement.  In your earlier post in this thread you said _"If I adjust the throw spot of the K2 to the same size as my 3W TaskForce(which is a very nice bright light) I can see the MaxStar5 is about 1.5x brighter and HAS lots OF Side Spill where the TF3W has virtual none, so in an instand on judgement the MaxStar5 is noticable brighter" _ So, in your own words, the MaxStar5 is brighter than your 3W on the hotspot and outputting a significant spill - those are lumens too. Now you say _"It seems to be at max a 3.0 watt LED to my eyes," _ Which is it friend?


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## Phased_Array (Dec 12, 2006)

SuperTorch,

Jeez, How many do I have to buy to make the odds equal? 

I got 2 of the MaxStar and umpteen MagLED's([email protected]) 2,3,4 cell -a few of each. Generally the MagLED's outperform the MaxStars - cold(which is how I use em). 

The MaxStar lottery cost's twice the price to play, that's all(and I'm a two time looser)... wanna play some more...?

So far 1 of the ten or so MagLED's turned out to be a dimmer seasick green.

But at this point it's nice of MattK to admit the 5w is based on pwr consumption and not light output. I was concerned... and the proof... well it illuminates my wall.

Aye... hotwires... "where the watts be watts" (Pirate Voice)


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## MattK (Dec 12, 2006)

Heh, I didn't 'admit' that 5W is based upon consumption. It's a simple fact that the use of 'wattage' is a meaningless measure of output. You make it sound like I'm fessing up to something when all I'm doing is making a simple statement of fact.

It's an unfortunate aspect of the industry that wattage has become a measure since it doesn't accurately describe anything besides consumption - it's like saying I have a car that gets 25MPG - but not saying how many HP it has. It must be some kind of weird holdover from the incandescnent days.

Wattage is only a useful number when we have a known lumen output from an emitter - then we can discuss efficiency - lumens per watt.

A perfect example of the problem is the MagLED's; they consume 3W yet within 5 minutes are outputting less light than a 1W L1 that's running properly because of the inherent flaw of their design with regards to heat soak. They continue to CONSUME 3W yet their output is nearly 1/2 of what a 3W Luxeon III normally drives.


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## Phased_Array (Dec 12, 2006)

MattK,

I stand corrected. Thank you for the explanation. I'm new to this LED arena, and usually play around with slightly larger devices.

1kW Xenon Arc Tank Light 
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=92396


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## SuperTorch (Dec 12, 2006)

Watts is not Totaly Meaningless it just gvies a ballpark of what you may expect, and reducing it sure doesn't help. The MAG LED's reduce current when they get hot so they don't continue to use 3Watts of power. The 2D starts as high as 1250mA and drops to 500mA once hot. I wish we could get bankable current/voltage readings which we may have but like others I'm not sure about.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 12, 2006)

I think desoldering my emitter to get current readings would void the warranty. 

I wonder if somebody set the spec for 900-1100 mA @ 3-4.5 V, then manufacturing put a different resistor in?

Anything is possible...


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## SuperTorch (Dec 12, 2006)

My guess is it was set at 1000mA ave at 5v+ ave but that got cut down when it was melting 50% of the reflectors, so they cut it to the highset level that wouldn't, but that just a guess.

Ordered my Aluminum HS reflector today


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## wtn (Dec 12, 2006)

Finally got time to play with this pill. I picked up a 4D Mag from Home Depot for $15.97 with batteries - very good deal. The only light that I have to compare the Maxstar5 with is an Elektrolumens Blaster JR. This is a 3W direct drive with a 3AA to 1 D adapter. This is a great light and is very bright. Of course it goes through the 3AA's fairly quick - never checked the run time but it's probably 2 hours or so. I wanted a light that had a long run time, great throw, and brighter than my Blaster JR. I use the Blaster JR. when I let my dog out at night - we have a large back yard and I sometimes have to locate him to see if he is responding to the " come" command. I think he has lost some of his hearing. The Maxstar is brighter than the Blaster. I can get a tighter hot spot with the Maxstar. When it get's dark I fully expect the Mag to have a great throw. I did expect the Maxstar to be brighter since I thought it was going to be running at 5 watts, but if it can maintain the initial brightness for 20+ hours, then I am happy. It would seem that the run time graph supports this. As far as color I would say that the Maxstar looks white, but if you compare it side by side with the Blaster JR., it is more purple in color (but not by much). I measured the 4 D cell Duracells at 1.57V each, and 6.30V stacked (no load). I measured 508 ma using the tailcap method. This comes out to 3.20 watts. The Blaster JR. measured 788 ma, with the 3AA to 1D measuring 4.18 volts (it drops fast with direct drive). This gives 3.29 watts. If I have the Blaster aimed at a white wall at about 6 feet it has a big hot spot - i would guess 12" or so. If I adjust the Maxstar to equal the 12" hot spot I would say that they are both real close in brightness. If I adjust the Maxstar to a tight hot spot 6-8" and move it back and forth through the Blaster's 12" hot spot it will cut right through it brightness wise.
So the Maxstar should easily out throw the Blaster JR. which is what I am looking for. Did I expect more? YES. Is it worth the $52 investment. I believe the answer will be a definite YES with the predicted and now graphed run times.


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## mhubble (Dec 12, 2006)

I just finished running my MAXSTAR 5 in a 3 C CELL for an hour and 15 min non stop. Saw no drop in brightness and it didnt get hot. Wasnt quite as bright as when it was in the 5 C CELL. but barely noticable. The 3 cell light I used regular duracells. I put the diamond 3 watt that came out of the 3 cell into the 5 cell with two dummy batteries. It was as bright as the maxstar but had a yellowish tint to it. But it didnt seem to have the throw of the maxstar.

Thats about it for me and the maxstar5. Im very pleased with it. Amazing throw, very white, very bright, and doesnt get hot.(I think I got an exceptional one as far as heat goes). And battery life with the maxstar I think will be its claim to fame. I have no doubt after the runtime test I did over the weekend that a set of batteries could easily last 30 - 50 hours. Now all they need to do is make a bulb I can put in a light with a couple of cr123's that will last 30 hours!!!!!!

As far as my Maxstar goes, WELL DONE TERRALUX AND BATTERYJUNCTION.

Hopefully Ill be getting the aluminum reflector in a day or two and Ill post my thoughts on it then.

TOO everybody that posted info and opinions in here thanks for helping me learn more about LED'S.


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## Phased_Array (Dec 12, 2006)

EngrPaul and SuperTorch,
Since the heat sinking is superior in the MaxStar can we mod the board to get our 2 watts back? Aluminum reflectors, better heatsinking, we're almost there.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 13, 2006)

If it is just a change in resistor to lower the curent, and someone here with uber-skills knows what new resistor should go in the MAxStar5 to make it 1250mA then Maybe. I don't think it would have any problem doing 1000-1400mA if 1500mA is max spec but I'm not sure on thats even right for the K2, its either 1000mA or 1500mA. If the K2 does do 1500mA that spec probably would be with a killer heat sink which is not the MaxStar5. However going from 1000mA to 1500mA might get you 15% more light at best while going from 500mA to 1000mA would get 60-75% more light. I think,.......Phased Array you should take yours apart carefully and post pics of the innards for the ModGods to observe it's be a sacrifice to the Sun Gods so to speak. Looking at it desoldering the K2 would make the PR part just fall out or at least removable and the circuit board would be right there to be observed. You'd probably need brain surgen hand skills though to get it done. Once the resistor is located it'd be a remove and replace with the higher current one only job. Maybe in a year when the MaxStar5 is passed far by I open it just out of curiousity when I've move on to Cree XR-E's. If you do get the balls to go for it, go at it very slowly to give yourself a chance of success, open it up then over to the Mod arena for thoughts on the circuit board. With aluminum reflectors it damn sure won't hurt those at any temp.


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## MattK (Dec 13, 2006)

wtn & mhubble - Awesome - glad to hear that you're enjoying it! I'm goind to try to get some 3 AA or 3 AAA to D adapters so people with 2 AA mags can play too!

Phased Array - The weakspot in running at 1500mah isn't the LED - it's the maglite reflector. Again, I don't think you're 'missing' 2W and would

EngrPaul - I got an explanation regarding the wattage but frankly it was beyond my ken. I'll post what I managed to retain here for you and I've emailed asking for a re-explanation that I can grasp and communicate - it had something to do with - and don't quote me here - the operating frequency of the device is near 1M cycles per second making measuring the current exceptionally difficult without specialized equipment, the voltage drop across the resistor in the DMM distorts the measurement and it's an AC, not a DC current so cannot be measured with a DC ammeter. Again - I'm no engineer so it was a bit beyond me.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 13, 2006)

MattK,

I'm using a "RMS" DMM for the current off the batteries.


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## wtn (Dec 13, 2006)

EngrPaul said:


> MattK,
> 
> I'm using a "RMS" DMM for the current off the batteries.



Same for me - a Fluke 179 DMM RMS. Last night I checked the throw on the Maxstar5 vs the Blaster JR. With a tight hot spot it definitely throws farther than the JR. It would be nice if a simple mod to the board would jack the wattage up. They probably choked it due to potential lens/reflector heat damage. For $52 total outlay I am happy.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 13, 2006)

MattK,

Is there a possiblility there is a difference between the production K2 assemblies being shipped and the devices under test at your facilities?


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## Skyline (Dec 13, 2006)

Just got mine today. It's not as bright as I wanted it to be, but my expectations were pretty high.

The exterior of the light only got barely warm after 20-25 minutes. However, I also noticed that the reflector and lens got fogged up. When I opened it up, I also got a whiff of that burnt smell. Perhaps it's a bit of flux burning up? The LED itself seems to be working perfectly fine. I was able to clean up the reflector with some alcohol and lint-free wipes, but I think I put some fine scratches on the lens. 

I'm running it without the reflector or lens now to make sure whatever was being burnt off...gets burnt off.

Any ideas what caused the smell?


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## EngrPaul (Dec 13, 2006)

Skyline said:


> I also noticed that the reflector and lens got fogged up. When I opened it up, I also got a whiff of that burnt smell.
> 
> Any ideas what caused the smell?


 
Mine had no such fogging or odor. It was very clean.


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## mhubble (Dec 14, 2006)

Anybody got the their aluminum reflector? I figured mine would be here by today but no luck.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 14, 2006)

haven't got mine but I think he ships once a week not everyday - but not sure about that. I ordered quite aboit after you though. I have Cree XR-E P3 on the way that I may mod onto the MaxStar5 don't know yet.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 14, 2006)

No reflectors, just some Cree XR-E's. Oh well


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## SuperTorch (Dec 14, 2006)

DEWIT.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 14, 2006)

SuperTorch said:


> DEWIT.


 
:lolsign:


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## EngrPaul (Dec 14, 2006)

CREE MOD IN PROCESS

700 mA should be just about right for an XR-E


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## Yukon_MkI (Dec 14, 2006)

I bought two of these units and tested both of them out today in a 4d mag. Both are bright and extremely white in color. I don't have a magled to compare it with, but both leds are definitely brighter than my Dorcy super 3 watt Luxeon on fresh cells. The beam focus will not work though. It changes a tiny bit, but nothing significant. This particular light was a christmas gift in 1984 so maybe they changed the head design since then? :shrug:


And on a side note, this place may put me in the poor house. I have been a light junkie for a long time and managed to spend a lot of money before finding CPF. Now I have the shakes...


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## SuperTorch (Dec 14, 2006)

EngrPaul said:


> CREE MOD IN PROCESS
> 
> 700 mA should be just about right for an XR-E


 
Sweet.





The Mag should be fully focusable with the MaxStar5 just like a stock bulb.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 14, 2006)

It doesn't focus very well, but it's definitely brighter with the Cree. I'm looking forward to the HS reflector  For now, I will do some current measurements. I'd like to see if it drives this emitter the same.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: TerraLUX Maxstar5 CREE mod*

Cree XR-E Current Readings:

3D - .44A
4D - .55A
5D - .46A
6D - .40A

P.S. the K2 is held down by the two solder joints and some easy-to-release epoxy. Once you scratch off the old epoxy, you have a fresh anodized surface to attach to. Personally I used ArticSilver5, which is a very good thermal conductive that is not epoxy. My Cree is only held down by the solder joint bridges, which I made with an extremely short piece of copper desolder wick.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 14, 2006)

So are you haveing a problem get a hotspot/thight throw with the Cree?

Artic Silver is what I have too from my PC build, currents look the same or reduced a tadd.

How hard was it to center


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## SuperTorch (Dec 14, 2006)

double post


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## EngrPaul (Dec 14, 2006)

The Cree will make a hotspot, but not as hot as the stock MaxStar5 (or TLE-DB3 which I am directly comparing it to). Instead, it's a messy collection of concentric rings (think Saturn), and then a nice spill afterwards. If you take turns aiming them at the ceiling while looking down around the floor, it's very obvious there is a whole bunch more lumens total with the Cree, it's just not being focused. Like I said, I look forward to the heavily stippled reflector for evening the rings out to a smooth beam.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 14, 2006)

yea it sounds like a killer match, I bet with the HS reflector you have a meduim beautiful beam, I'm next for sure. My TaskForce Cree XR-e with new 20degree lens and extra cree is in the mail to me.


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## chiphead (Dec 15, 2006)

mhubble said:


> I originally posted this in the original thread from BATTERJUNCTION but it got lost in the shuffle.
> 
> Well I got mine today, thanks for the fast shipping. Installation is simple. Just screw it on. I put it in a 5 "C" Cell. Its definetly brighter than the maglite bulb. But not as bright as I thought it would be. I was also hoping for a bigger hotspot. The hotspot on the terralux is just a little bigger than the maglite bulb. About 12" at 20 feet. Very white though. As soon as it gets dark Ill check the throw. If it gets even close to the run times they are talking about its well worth the money. Thanks Terralux and BATTERYJUNCTION.
> 
> Just took it out to check the throw........DAMN!!!!!! This thing is got the longest throw Ive ever seen. I was lighting up trees more than 100 yards away. The Terralux is ALOT better at throw than the MAGLED. At 25-30 yards the hot spot is about 8 feet in diameter and pure white. At 100 yards its just a little bigger. Im really impressed with this bulb. Its well worth the money.


This all sounds very good, but is there still the donut hole in the beam?

chiphead


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## sguyer (Dec 15, 2006)

So we have most saying the TerraLUX K2 is brighter than the Mag LED, some saying the Meg LED is brighter, most that say it gets hot, some that say it does not. What a mess.

To add to the confusion, I took a look at what the specs say. I am new at this, so those in the know please correct. 

First, we refine the watt measurements, which assumed 1.5 volts per cell. 
6D cells 400 mA 3.60 W
5D cells 460 mA 3.45 W
4D cells 540 mA 3.24 W
3D cells 420 mA 1.89 W

The battery specs yield 150-300 milli Ohms per cell. Assuming 300 milli Ohms and recalculating, I get the following:
6D cells 400 mA 3.31 W (6*(1.5-(.4*,3))*.4)
5D cells 460 mA 3.13 W (5*(1.5-(.46*,3))*.46)
4D cells 540 mA 2.89 W (4*(1.5-(.540*,3))*.54)
3D cells 420 mA 1.73 W (3*(1.5-(.42*,3))*.42)

Assuming we have the high output emitters (LXK2-PW14-V00) tested at 1000ma and assuming these perform at the high end at lower current, we have the following based on the general specs. For those that know, does a particular bin get it’s on specs?

TerraLUX K2 Mag LED
Watts ma Vf Luminous K2 Luminous Luxeon III
1.2 350 3.4 51.7-60 30-45
2.5 700 3.6 100 typical 60-65
3.7 1000 3.7 113-120 80


With the TerraLUX K2 in the Mag 3D, we are at 1.73 watts. This puts us in between the 1.2 and 2.5 watt specs, or at about 70 luminous. At these levels, the bulb with the limited Mag heatsink may not get all that hot. Now the 2D Mag LED at turn on draws about 1.25 amps. So at 1.25 amp, we have 2.25 volts (2*(1.5-(.3x1.25)). So we have 2.25* 1.250 Amps at turn on giving us 2.812 watts not counting for boost circuit loses. This means we could have 65 to maybe 70 luminous out of the Luxeon III depending on boost circuit efficiency. So it could be a toss up as to who is brighter at turn on with Philips parts only guaranteed within +/-10% of specs.

But with 4D, it is another story. Here we have 2.89 Watts with the TerraLUX K2. We should be greater than 100 luminous typical. This clearly should out perform the 2D or 3D Mag LED at turn on, at least on paper. So I do not see why some are seeing the 3D MagLed out perform the 4D TerraLUX K2 at turn on.

Now temperature wise, we have from previous posts 188deg F (86.67 deg C) in 10 minutes. The spec for the K2 says this should cause a 15% drop in luminous. I wonder if real world measurements will show this or more. Also, the K2 spec allows for higher temp operation without chip damage than the Luxeon III.

So it looks like to me the Mag LED was designed with a thermal circuit so they could pump out as much light as possible before having to cut back to avoid chip damage due to high temperature. For the TerraLUX K2, it looks like they simply designed with a lower fixed current to avoid high temperature damage. So this is why the Meg LED comes so close to the TerraLUX K2 on turn on. But the more efficient K2 spec has to win out in the end (after 10-15 minutes) as the Mag LED has to pull back to avoid chip damage.

So others that are better at this can tell me if I have completely missed the boat with this analysis.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 15, 2006)

Only PhasedArray found his Mag LEDs to be brighter, my MaxStar5 hot was brighter than my 2D Mag LED at start but not by much and once the MAg was on for 5+ minutes it was more noticable how bright the MaxStar5 is. Eventually the MaxStar5 will get some lumens ratings, but at worse I doubt is will be a failure, because if it can hold 50% more light than a HOT TLE-DB3 or the MAg then it worth it for the extra $5 over those in price. I wish they made it in a side emmiter and can't figure out why all the MAG drop ins are not side-emmiters, Side Emmiters are made for focusing relector lights and I just think you'd get 33% more light out of the same bin led as apposed to the dome. Thats the issue with Crees too, so they just need to throw that light at the reflector.


EngrPaul how hot is it geting with the Cree mod. Do your temp reading to see how the Cree compares.


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## ace0001a (Dec 15, 2006)

The only LED dropin that utilizes side emitting and performs well is probably the EverLED....although I've never tried one only because I don't think it's worth $40. My first dropin for my Maglite was the Tektite side emitting LuxI, which I eventually found out and realized that its output is not so good. So I tend to wonder that eventhough using a side emitting LED with a focusing light like a Magluten would give you more useable light, the hotspot isn't nearly as bright as compared to a high dome emitter.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 15, 2006)

SuperTorch said:


> EngrPaul how hot is it geting with the Cree mod. Do your temp reading to see how the Cree compares.


 
Good idea. I'll make temp measurements later today or over the weekend.


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## mhubble (Dec 15, 2006)

Well I didnt get my aluminum reflector today either BUT look what I did get!!https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/144814


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## Phased_Array (Dec 15, 2006)

I just got unlucky with the MaxStar lotto, they are all pretty close to theMagLED's... for just 3 watter's.

Can a reflector be used to direct the emitter light to the parabolic reflector? Like the automotive headlights? Suspended right above the emitter?


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## Burgess (Dec 15, 2006)

*sguyer*, welcome to CPF.







That's gotta' be the most 


*Technical and Impressive*

"First Post" we've ever had here !







Welcome to the Forum. Now, hide yer' wallet and credit cards !


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## EngrPaul (Dec 16, 2006)

SuperTorch,

Please let it be known I burned my retina and I am typing with only peripheral vision.

The temperature profile of the CREE upgrade MaxStar5 is as follows (candle mode again)

Minutes, Degrees Fahrenheit

0, 71
1, 91
2, 110
3, 133
4, 140
5, 148
6, 160
7, 162
8, 159
9, 161
10, 160

Just a side note, it's difficult to get a precised location of measurement with the IR thermometer. I'm using an Extech IR201 with 6:1 resolution, set on Max-Hold. For all I know, I'm measuring the die temperature, not the aluminum temperature.

Regardless, the Cree could stand to be driven harder without melting the stock reflector


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## SuperTorch (Dec 16, 2006)

Thanks, well the same would be tue with the K2 reagrding your tool so I guess its running a tad cooler which is what its is said to do.


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## Phased_Array (Dec 17, 2006)

The MaxStar boards are pretty small, could we run them in parallel to increase the current to the LED? Put two boards in one 'drop in'?
They are epoxied into the red 'drop in' housing.  
I can't see much of the board(to mod) thru the access slots.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 19, 2006)

FYI-

The 5W K2 that I replaced with the Cree X-RE has a new home.

I disassembled the TLE-DB3, removed the low-value resistor in the PR-2 base, and installed the K2 as direct drive.

Now my 3D batteries are driving the K2 at 1.02A, which is a little less than the "5W" rating. And my runtime should be about 20 hours of tapered performance (considering 20.5 A*h in D batteries).

To get an idea of what the performance will be as the batteries go away, I hooked up 3AAA NiMH to the K2. I got .54A, which tells me at 3.6V I still have 2W of power driving the emitter. Which is significantly more than the <1.8W from the MaxStar5 running on 3D cells.

Even with the heavy stipple reflector, I can throw as far as I did with the stock emitter setup and the stock reflector, but with much more flood.

Now I have two bright MagLites!  Thanks BatteryJunction for enabling me to accomplish this.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 19, 2006)

hmmm......I thought the TLE-DB3 was direct drive so you'd just have to swap them out and not remove a resistor or if so you have to replace with the matching resistor for the K2. Who showed you wich one it was and did you take a pick of it so we can swap them out. That sounds like you have doubled the output which is what we all wanted. I can't help but think if you were successful at removing the resistor that the MaxStar5 could just have a 1000mA rististor put it for use with the HS refector or boring out the plastic Mag reflector another 1/16th so there is no contact between it and the copper heatsing of the MaxStar5, and without that I'm 995 sure it wouldn't melt it, as long as its not touching it. Also since the K2 can be driveing upto 1500mA you be better off in a 4xDxNiMh if you let them set a day before fireing it up 4.8v x 1000mA should be a steady 5watts. Tell us more about the resistor you removed. Good info, how is the New K2 DD with with the stock refector? If your geting as much throw with the HS as before then you have realy increased the output a lot.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 20, 2006)

PS Cree XR-E can handle up to 1000mM so you might think about puting it/one on the TLE-DB3 host and shoot for that 200+ lumens.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 20, 2006)

SuperTorch said:


> hmmm......I thought the TLE-DB3 was direct drive so you'd just have to swap them out and not remove a resistor or if so you have to replace with the matching resistor for the K2. Who showed you wich one it was and did you take a pick of it so we can swap them out. That sounds like you have doubled the output which is what we all wanted. I can't help but think if you were successful at removing the resistor that the MaxStar5 could just have a 1000mA rististor put it for use with the HS refector or boring out the plastic Mag reflector another 1/16th so there is no contact between it and the copper heatsing of the MaxStar5, and without that I'm 995 sure it wouldn't melt it, as long as its not touching it. Also since the K2 can be driveing upto 1500mA you be better off in a 4xDxNiMh if you let them set a day before fireing it up 4.8v x 1000mA should be a steady 5watts. Tell us more about the resistor you removed. Good info, how is the New K2 DD with with the stock refector? If your geting as much throw with the HS as before then you have realy increased the output a lot.


 
ST,

It's practically direct drive, the resistor is a very low value. I tested the current without a resistor and was satisfied. The internal resistance of the alkalines are enough resistance.

The resistor was soldered to the (+) tip solder blob of the PR-2 base up to the luxeon. I replaced it with a wire. The resistor was .47 ohm at 1/2 watt I believe.

Avoid making assumtions about current being directly/linear related to voltage in the emitter. There is very narrow operating voltage range. It just so happens that 3 alkaline cells in series work well at finding a point of equilibrium on the current-voltage spec for a luxeon.

As you would expect, the direct driven K2 is the same as the MaxStar5 but significantly brighter. I won't run the stock reflector for very long, I'm sure it can melt the reflector (since TerraLUX backed down from this high of a current before releasing it)


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## SuperTorch (Dec 20, 2006)

well I'm sure the melting is/was related to direct contact of the stock plastic refletor. 3 fresh alks would be at 4.75-5.0v but not for long thats why I though 4.8 in NiMh MIGHT be ok but didn't really know. All this may be moot when I get my Cree in my TaskForce with new Cree optics. I've spent $100 on my Mag set up and just don't have much to show for it(YET) it'll be ready when a Cree Dropn in arrives though.


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## mhubble (Dec 20, 2006)

SUPER TORCH and ENGRPAUL, When did you get you HS REFLECTOR from 5MEGA and how was it shipped. UPS or US POSTAL? I still dont have mine and Im starting to get concerned. Thanks


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## SuperTorch (Dec 20, 2006)

Yesterday for me, FC USPS, he never gave me a tracking number but it had one if he wanted too, mine was shiped on the 13th. I have been waiting on 4.5v/3AA to D converters for 8 days now and only got to play with my MaxStar5 for 2 nights(I returned a 4D mag for a 2D) I emailed the owner found out he lives in HongKong and its usually 2 weeks from there I may not have it till after Xmas. Bummer.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 20, 2006)

mhubble said:


> SUPER TORCH and ENGRPAUL, When did you get you HS REFLECTOR from 5MEGA and how was it shipped. UPS or US POSTAL? I still dont have mine and Im starting to get concerned. Thanks


 
USPS, ordered it 12/10 and got it 12/16. From Glendale CA to Pennsylvania, first class with delivery confirmation. Good luck


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## mhubble (Dec 20, 2006)

I ordered mine on the 10th also...Its coming to Va, I should of had it by now. Crap!!!


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## Mike L. (Dec 23, 2006)

I got my Maxstar5 today (a little behind the curve here, I know). I've put in in one of my 2D Maglites. This particular Mag is running a 4AA into 1D converter (or whatever it's called) from the Shoppe and a D dummy cell. It seems to be working ok so far on alkalines. I have some AA lithiums I can use if the alkies run out of steam. So far 2 hrs and I see no loss of brightness. Of course I don't expect C or D cell run times, but I already had the 4AA into D from another project and I thought "Why not?" 
What would be nice would be to put this in one of those custom cutdown 1D Mag bodies I've seen. If I could get one cheap (hint) I think I'd have a pretty good light for the truck glovebox.
Can't wait 'till it gets dark to take it outside and compare vs 2D Magled and 3D Mag stoked with 4C cells.
This is really exciting for a newbie non-soldering modder.

--Mike


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## SuperTorch (Dec 23, 2006)

I finally got my 3AA/4.5v to D converters in and I have 2 in my 2D so the MaxStar5 thinks I'm running 6 weak D's. Anyway nice and bright and now I can move to the new NiMhs that hold a charge. With these alkalines I should be good for 5hrs of full brightness at minimum. Now I'm on to re-drilling the FiveMega reflector to 10/16 for a Cree mod later on. EngrPaul, you said you removed a low value resitor from your TLE-DB3 do you still have it and what do you think it might fit the MAxStar5 and allow it to go 1000mA for the Cree you have on it. I like the new Cree based Semi Luxeon form factor LED's as they seem to hold their light when heated very well, they look perfect to sit on top of a TLE-DB3 host or MaxStar5 host but I'd want to push them to 1000mA for sure. Well anyway finally have the MaxStar5 in a portable 2D Mag.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 23, 2006)

SuperTorch said:


> EngrPaul, you said you removed a low value resitor from your TLE-DB3 do you still have it and what do you think it might fit the MAxStar5 and allow it to go 1000mA for the Cree you have on it. I like the new Cree based Semi Luxeon form factor LED's as they seem to hold their light when heated very well, they look perfect to sit on top of a TLE-DB3 host or MaxStar5 host but I'd want to push them to 1000mA for sure. Well anyway finally have the MaxStar5 in a portable 2D Mag.


 
SuperTorch,

The resistor I took out of the TLE-DB3 was a 0.47 ohm resistor in direct series with the emitter (current limiting), INSTEAD of a regulated driver. I will probably be replacing resistor, and dropping a SSC-P4 instead of the the K2 I took off of the MaxStar 5. Perhaps the resistor I use will be 0.33 ohm.

I have decided that I want to put a SSC-P4 emitter on my MaxStar5 instead of the Cree currently there. The lack of focus/spot/throw with the Cree is a little dissappointing.

The reason I want to avoid approaching 1 A through these new emitters (Cree XR-E / SSC P4) is that there is not enough heat sink in the stock Mag to drive them at the absolute maximum current.


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## SuperTorch (Dec 23, 2006)

Well I know the Heatsinking on the MAgs are lame, but i thought Newbie posted a link in your Done with mod thread that showed even once heated up the SSC-P4 held true to advertised specs which kinda shocked them but maybe that was with a killer heat sink. I know the MAxStar5 has regulation but with in that set up there(I thought) would be a basic resistor also(the one they increased when it was melting reflectors), so the MaxStar5 was ment to be a 1000mA regulated host and I thought maybe all it needs is a resistor that would allow up to 1000mA and then the regulation does its magic to keep it there. Since the TLE-DB3 was designed to go about 750-1000mA I thought that resistor may be a nice swap out for one in the MaxStar5 puting it back to its original output. I'm a total newbie and all this is just guess work but we know the MaxStar5 is only puting out 3.5 watts on a 6.5 watt capable LED and thats been specualted because the heat was melting the Mag reflectors. I doubt they would redesign the whole thing to reduce heat as opposed to just puting in a resistor. I too will be doing the SSC-P4 mod for the MaxStar5 and maybe a TLE-DB3 host, it really looks like a winner for a drop in Mag LED and it won't be to long (6 months) before they are in the retail market like at Diamond and Teralux because if they build it we will come.

PS: 390mA on 6AA cells and 535mA on 4D exact same a mhubble


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## EngrPaul (Jan 12, 2007)

PREDICTION

I have the feeling these will sell like hotcakes once people find out how easy it is to swap the emitter to a Seoul Semiconductor P4, which should focus as well as the K2 (unlike the cree).

(1) Using desolder wick, unsolder K2 leads.

(2) Gently pry with a small screwdriver, K2 pops off easy.

(3) Scrape off excess epoxy without scraping through the anodizing (this electrical insulation will be needed since the base is +)

(4) Thermal epoxy down P4 emitter, with leads at solder locations. ("Pat Pend" side is Anode/+) Get-R-Centered 

(5) After epoxy cures, solder each lead.

Enjoy mucho lumenos (without the heat)


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## SuperTorch (Jan 12, 2007)

I think the MaxStar5 was a great attempt at a killer drop in, the reflector issue just burned all involved so to speak. If TerraLux made a new version based around Cree w/ added reflector or a Seoul P4 I'd be first inline even though I wasn't happy with the way the MaxStar5 turned out. A regulated Mag is the way to go and at as bright as possible and I think next time they'll nail it, they nailed the regulation in the MaxStar5. I think by midyear hopefully sooner well see the next round of Mag dropins. The current needs to be 700mA+ imo or your leaving good lumens on the table. Can't wait to see your Seoul P4 mod thoughts, btw I put a Cree XR-E P3 in my TaskForce 3W 2C and its very bright, however the X-Lamp Optic that I got with it doesn't work really at all, I thought it was supposed to fit but the beam is just crazy looking and my old Luxeon 3 optic does better with the Cree than the one sent with it. Too bad since it puting out 2.5x the lumens, I now have a lensless ulta flood light, but I do want to see the Luxeon Optic on a Seoul P4 they may just be close enough to do well. Waiting on Seoul P4's to be sold on a Star.


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## Effulgence (Jan 12, 2007)

Indeed, I recieved the K2 and it was quite disappointing... but I have read that the 4D mags and up are what the optimal settings for this module are. I currently run the K2 in my 3D mag... rather than buying another 4D mag at homedepot for around $22, I was thinking about getting some kind of AA-to-D conversion kit. Hopefully something that would safely pump out the lumens as the 4 to 6 D mags while retaining a rechargeable feature, since the Maha C-9000 seems to be the end-all-be-all of smart chargers (for now anyways). 

That Seoul P4 emitter sounds good, as for heat management, how about using these heatsinks, this reflector, and this lens (either this, or borofloat)?

Quite hefty for a mag; maybe a mag85 is not too far...


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## TORCH_BOY (Jan 12, 2007)

I was thinking about getting one of these, but I think I will hold off for a while


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## etc (Jan 12, 2007)

I got one. In 4D MagLite, the brightness is the same as with 3W MagLED module in a 4D unit. I thought maybe it's because I am using half-discharged NiMH cells. Put fresh Alkalines in, the same thing.
Then I compared it in a 4D MagLite with a 2D MagLite 3W and again, no perceived different in brightness.

The only advantage that I do see is that this module supposedly stays bright while MagLED dims after 10 minutes. 

I wonder how it performs in a 5D or 6D (or C) light.


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## EngrPaul (Jan 21, 2007)

Here are the pictures of results I described in post #130.

The MaxStar5 is the Red module, the Black on is unregulated and for 3 cells only.

I highly recommend this drop-in, because it's the easiest chassis to upgrade when a new emitter comes out, and because it's regulated for constant output.


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## EngrPaul (Jan 21, 2007)

For the fun of it, I put the stock bulb back into the 3D Mag. After the pictures, I had to double-check the batteries were OK, and they were.






Spot Focus





Spot Focus -2 stops





Full Flood


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## TORCH_BOY (Jan 22, 2007)

I finally decided to try one, it arrived today I installed it into a brand new3D [email protected]
Although 3 Cell does not do much justice for the 5 K2 Drop in as would 4 or 5 cells,
I am quite happy with it as its only intended to be used around the house and the occasional dog walk, It has a nice white beam with a very tight hotspot also its runs much cooler with 3 Cells as compared to 4 Cells but not nearly as bright. I will keep it at 3 Cells as the Mag has a poor thermal path though the Plastic pedestal and base to the body.


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## Effulgence (Jan 22, 2007)

My 3D MagLED was dropped to concrete from 4 feet. The UCL was cracked at the outer edge and the MagLED emitter broke off the module. Everything appears to be fine. The fins are in good condition, and everything else inside looks to be in working order. I think only the thermal epoxy gave out, but I'm hesitant to put it back in... after all, there are better emitters out there :devil:

So is it possible or recommended to put something else like a Cree or Seoul emitter in there? I'm not sure if the MagLED module is regulated or semi-regulated... Too bad I wasn't carrying my other 3D mag with the K2 instead. :ironic: EngrPaul's idea looks like a good setup. :thumbsup:


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## sshark (Jan 24, 2007)

EngrPaul,

Is the black module in the photo is a 3W TerraLux TLE-DB3? You mentioned unregulated, has it been modded? 

From the photos, it looked there is not much of different between a K2 and the DB3 for a 3D Mag. Is DB3 good enough for a 3D Mag?


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## EngrPaul (Jan 24, 2007)

sshark said:


> EngrPaul,
> 
> Is the black module in the photo is a 3W TerraLux TLE-DB3? You mentioned unregulated, has it been modded?
> 
> From the photos, it looked there is not much of different between a K2 and the DB3 for a 3D Mag. Is DB3 good enough for a 3D Mag?


 

It's a TLE-DB3. It's unregulated when it's new. The K2 is regulated. Yes, the DB3 is "good enough" for a 3D Mag.


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## sshark (Jan 24, 2007)

Thanks. When you said K2 is regulated, does it mean that it will have a constant light output and drop abruptly once the battery depleted as compared to DB3 where the light is getting dimmer as time goes by? 

Please forgive me. I am not savvy with the "light" terminology yet


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## EngrPaul (Jan 24, 2007)

sshark said:


> Thanks. When you said K2 is regulated, does it mean that it will have a constant light output and drop abruptly once the battery depleted as compared to DB3 where the light is getting dimmer as time goes by?
> 
> Please forgive me. I am not savvy with the "light" terminology yet


 
Yes, a special circuit driving the K2 that pulls more current from the batteries as their voltage drops, so that constant power is delivered to the emitter. With the DB3, there is just a standard resistor in there, and the current from the batteries drops as the voltage of the battery drops. Power is voltage times current.


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## mcmc (Feb 7, 2007)

EngrPaul, planning on doing this mod today - but do we need to epoxy it down? Can't we just put some thermal compound and let it be? ... but I guess it won't be held down tight enough w/ just the soldering to the wires?


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## EngrPaul (Feb 7, 2007)

I suppose it will be OK, but what happens when it warms up, will the emmiter lift away from the surface? What happens after it's dropped? What happens when you solder it offline, then it's installed on the Mag and the PR-2 bulb base flexes underneath?

These are things I asked myself when making the decision...


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## Scattergun (Feb 19, 2007)

I´m thinking of modding one of these like EngrPaul has done, with a Seoul P4 on top of the Maxstar 5. Will I have to change the reflector on a Maglite D5 to a aluminium reflector to avoid meltingproblems?


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## EngrPaul (Feb 19, 2007)

I checked the temperature for 10 minutes, it's a few degrees less than a stock MaxStar5. The stock MaxStar5 doesn't require an aluminum reflector.


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## Scattergun (Feb 19, 2007)

Sounds like a cheap way to get lotsa lumens for a very looong time!! 
I have ordered a Seoul emittor and some epoxy for bonding the led to the heatsink. Whats the ideal size Maglite host? Was thinking of a 5D but now when I see the 4 and 5C I guess they are a bit more easy to carry? Any drawbacks apart from runtime if I were to use the C-cells instead?


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## MattK (Feb 19, 2007)

No, I'd probably do 4 C myself for that.


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## crewcabrob (Feb 19, 2007)

Hi all,

I bought one of these too, and have been very happy with it. Dropped it into a 5c mag and I am happy to leave it in my truck for an emergency light.

Funny though, I purchased at the same time one of the LED drop-ins for the SL Stinger HP. Neither seems to out perform the other as far as brightness or whitness. The Stinger HP LED has a much tighter beam, and I hope that it throws well. Not sure on throw yet, it has been to cold to do any testing outdoors. I can tell you for sure, neither throw like a Boxer 24w. Yeah, I know it is apples to oranges, but wow!

Very happw with mine and mine doesn't seem to heat up much either.

Thanks Guys!

Rob


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## MattK (Dec 11, 2007)

Let the drooling begin!

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=172428


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