# Best saw/blade to cut plexiglass & which glue ?



## LuxLuthor (Aug 4, 2008)

I want to make some custom rectangular boxes out of some sheets of black plexiglass I ordered from McMasters. They are 12" square & several thicknesses (3mm, 4.5mm, & 6mm). 

Not sure what is the best type of electric saw/blade to neatly cut various size (4" to 7") rectangles and then securely glue into box. Thanks


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## LukeA (Aug 4, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> I want to make some custom rectangular boxes out of some sheets of black plexiglass I ordered from McMasters. They are 12" square & several thicknesses (3mm, 4.5mm, & 6mm).
> 
> Not sure what is the best type of electric saw/blade to neatly cut various size (4" to 7") rectangles and then securely glue into box. Thanks



For sawing, you're not going to beat a well-adjusted tablesaw with a carbide-tipped blade. I'd recommend a fine blade for a smoother cut, but with a sharp blade the results will still be good with a little coarser blade. 

This has been my experience.


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## LuxLuthor (Aug 4, 2008)

I wonder if anyone has tried one of these hand tools? I guess their idea is score and snap, and it avoids the saw blade melting effect ?


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## LukeA (Aug 4, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> I wonder if anyone has tried one of these hand tools? I guess their idea is score and snap, and it avoids the saw blade melting effect ?



There's no problem with melting using a good powersaw setup. If you sand the cuts with a stationary sander though (won't need to sand tablesaw cuts), be ready with a utility knife to cut off the fuzzy meltings.

Score-and snap might be alright, but I don't know if you'll get perpendicular edges.


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## Lynx_Arc (Aug 4, 2008)

if you have a table saw I would just use it making sure the faces are taped or the covering is still on it that helps with the melting some. You can then sand it if needed. score and snap probably would require sanding also I would think and if not done perfectly could ruin a piece.


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## gallonoffuel (Aug 4, 2008)

I personally do not like the score and snap method, as it is somewhat difficult and very time consuming to get it scored enough to break cleanly.

The only time i cut plexiglass, i used an electric angle grinder with some cutting discs for metal. If you keep it from getting too hot, it wont bind, and the little melted globs will just break off the edge when you're done.


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## Marlite (Aug 4, 2008)

Lux I had a display case made of clear plexiglass at a "Store Fixture Display" and the shop foreman said you retain the protective covering and ensure the Carbide blade has 60 sharp teeth for a smooth cut. I scored a new 8" 60 Carbide blade tooth at an estate yard sale for $6.00.  Worked great.

Good Lux



LuxLuthor said:


> I want to make some custom rectangular boxes out of some sheets of black plexiglass I ordered from McMasters. They are 12" square & several thicknesses (3mm, 4.5mm, & 6mm).
> 
> Not sure what is the best type of electric saw/blade to neatly cut various size (4" to 7") rectangles and then securely glue into box. Thanks


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## mudman cj (Aug 4, 2008)

My opinion is sort of a combination of previous posts. The scoring tool will be difficult to use for the thickest piece, but should work for the thinner piece and probably even the middle piece. It requires careful use to keep it against a straight edge, for which a clamped T-square would suffice. Break it over a hard edge and preferable clamp an edge on the top of the pieces as well while breaking. Even then, it still may not break cleanly and could require filing to get a perpendicular edge. The table saw will provide that with greater assurance. 

As for the adhesive, I have had good luck using 3M DP460NS two part epoxy, but although it is very strong it is not clear. For a clear solution I would suggest an acrylic adhesive such as IPS Weld-On products (#4 and #40 are used to make aquariums) or similar products such as H-94 manufactured by Shwartz chemical co. or USP SC-125. Be sure to use these in a very well ventilated area.


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## mahoney (Aug 4, 2008)

Score all the way through is better than score and snap, less likely to chip, but neither will leave a clean enough edge to glue well. You'll need to file or sand the edge after. And you will need to be careful to keep the edge straight and square.

The thin plexi glues are just a solvent that melts the plexi together. (as has been mentioned, nasty vapors...no skin contact) For them to work well you need an edge that's fully in contact with the surface you are gluing it too. There are thicker glues, which are basically the solvent with clear acrylic dissolved in it, these will "gap fill" to some extent, but the clear glue line may stand out on your project.

The best cut will be from a "triple chip" grind carbide tipped saw blade on a table saw equipped with a zero clearance insert. Better sawblade makers make blades with this grind for cutting plexi, laminate, and aluminium. Remember, for the best cut, the blade should just barely protrude above the material, so as long as the arbor hole is the right size, you can use a smaller diameter blade on your tablesaw for this job and save a little money. If you have an existing blade that's ready for sharpening anyway, and a good local sharpening shop, you might be able to get them to change the grind to triple chip for a modest upcharge over the regular sharpening cost


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## Gary123 (Aug 4, 2008)

I've cut plexiglass numerous times, used a plain old hand hack saw for metal. Works great every time. Scratch a line for your mark.


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## LuxLuthor (Aug 4, 2008)

I was looking at this website which sells various plastic/plexiglass tools, including the cutting type which they use & say works up to .25" which is more than the thicker 6mm sheet I got. They also have those IPS glues. 

Here was another type of laminate cutter made by Virutex, but don't know how it would work on my plexiglass.

I don't have a table saw, although I was looking for an excuse to get one, and reading mahoney's post doesn't leave me as optimistic about the score/snap idea.

Basically, I want to make a battery box to hold 4 or 8 of the much lighter & smaller 26700 size A123 cells for a MaxaBeam spotlight. It uses this 5.5 lb NiCad "paper weight" pack that has the anchor slide mount holes on top, so I would need to also drill/dremel/melt those keyholes on one sheet glued to top of box.

I don't need to worry about the corner ear loops, as they are to hook a shoulder strap to carry the light. With A123's you won't need a strap.


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## Oznog (Aug 4, 2008)

mahoney said:


> The thin plexi glues are just a solvent that melts the plexi together. (as has been mentioned, nasty vapors...no skin contact) For them to work well you need an edge that's fully in contact with the surface you are gluing it too. There are thicker glues, which are basically the solvent with clear acrylic dissolved in it, these will "gap fill" to some extent, but the clear glue line may stand out on your project.



Beat me to it. Use the solvent weld, all the way. Not only is the bond as strong as the acrylic/lexan, but it's optically clear. The seam may not show up at all.


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## SafetyBob (Aug 5, 2008)

Lux, the last time I went to our big plastics place here in Oklahoma City, they cut sheets with a table saw and they told me they used a special plastic cutting blade. 60 tooth makes sense because if you had more teeth they you would really get a nice melting mess on your hands. And I did think they did recommend a 60 tooth blade if I needed to trim stuff up. 

While I invite you to purchase a table saw, and I recommend a good Delta Uni-saw (make sure and get the Besmeyer 50" fence) ....it will only mean you will have to get a whole bunch of other garbage and fill up your garage or shop even more. So let's forget the big saw.....

So if you are really worried about the quality of the edge and stuff, have your local plastics guy do the cutting to exact sizes you need and forget it. You can still do this despite already having the stuff from McMasters...... or how about a neighbor with a table saw? Perhaps you bring the blade? That would make the most sense right now. 

Now, without breaking the bank, Proxxon makes a table saw for hobby use. Here is the same saw offered by another company. Since it uses 3 inch blades you could either slow the blade down to get a good cut (as recommended by the company) or I think you could get a 3" slit saw (think metalworking) that might work. This is a question for the home shop machinist forum!! 

Here is a link to that saw from Micro-Mark:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=80463

Hope all the rambling helps.


Bob E.


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## mahoney (Aug 5, 2008)

No tablesaw...well...

for the cost of one you could hire someone to make dozens of custom boxes for you. Perhaps somebody like Unibox has one that would work?

http://www.uniboxenclosures.com/

A portable circular saw will work, but your pieces are on the small side for that to be safe. If you can work out a jig to support them and hold them in place while cutting, you could do it safely, and small triple chip blades are available.

It's just a battery box, and if you can live with a thick glue line, use the score method or a handsaw (hacksaw or any other fine toothed blade) to cut the pieces and then use an epoxy for the glue. It'll work OK. 

If it has to be pretty, a good quality cut and the solvent glue is the best.


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## LukeA (Aug 5, 2008)

SafetyBob said:


> Now, without breaking the bank, Proxxon makes a table saw for hobby use. Here is the same saw offered by another company. Since it uses 3 inch blades you could either slow the blade down to get a good cut (as recommended by the company) or I think you could get a 3" slit saw (think metalworking) that might work. This is a question for the home shop machinist forum!!
> 
> Here is a link to that saw from Micro-Mark:
> 
> ...



I was also thinking about recommending that saw. It is on the expensive side for such a small saw though.


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## turbodog (Aug 5, 2008)

I've cut a pretty good bit of plexi and lexan. I use a hollow ground blade from home depot. No melting. 

In case you don't know.... that means the blade is thicker at the outside edge. The inside part of the blade never contacts the material, unless you aren't cutting straight.

The blade is labelled "for plastics".


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## VegasF6 (Aug 5, 2008)

They have itty bitty hobby table saws for like 35 bucks, I am sure I have seen them at harbor freight. Also, perhaps you would benefit from a small laminate trim router, or a roto-zip type tool?


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## LukeA (Aug 5, 2008)

VegasF6 said:


> They have itty bitty hobby table saws for like 35 bucks, I am sure I have seen them at harbor freight. Also, perhaps you would benefit from a small laminate trim router, or a roto-zip type tool?


Those saws have bearings that won't last through an hour of use. 

And good luck to anyone who tries to get a remotely straight cut with a rotozip.


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## will (Aug 5, 2008)

The best way is to cut on a table saw or a radial arm saw. That will give a nice straight edge. 

Using a rotozip or a router may give little 'digs' on the edge of the material .

The straighter the edge, the better the contact with the mating piece, 

look on line for plexiglass adhesive and use that.


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## VegasF6 (Aug 5, 2008)

Actually they make 4" table saws in all quality's including the micro mark saw at well over 400 dollars. Just because it is small doesn't mean it is bad. Also routers are used in arylic and other plastic manufacturing quite often. Carbide bits, plastic cutting bits etc are availible. And straight edges for rotozips. 
My logic was A: he isn't looking to spend hundreds of dollars in equipment to make a couple of battery boxes,
B: the rotozip or another laminate trim router of whatever quality could be used for other things. Perhaps cutting circles or trimming a lip to set the lid in or whatever else.

I don't imagine for instance the need to buy a 600 lb left tilting cabinet saw like mine, or a 2 1/4 hp freud router and precision table and bits like mine, or either of my bandsaws or 72" drill press.

I will say that the 3 years I spent in marble manufacturing, fiberglass manufacturing, and acrylic manufacturing, running 10 ft heat vacuum form tables gave me an appreciation for the right tool for the job. 

I am sure you will get some excellent suggestion here LuxLuthor and I wish you luck with your endevor.


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## LukeA (Aug 5, 2008)

VegasF6 said:


> Actually they make 4" table saws in all quality's including the micro mark saw at well over 400 dollars. Just because it is small doesn't mean it is bad.



I am very aware of this. It is my opinion that the Harbor Freight saws are of dubious quality. I never made any claims as to the quality of the Proxxon/Micro-Mark saw, but I understand that they are of high quality. 

Small diameter, high rpm cutters like router bits and rotozip bits typically require a track made from two parallel straight edges to prevent the tool walking off of the line and wasting material on the waste side of the cut, and without having to use lots of force to keep the tool against the straight edge. 

The Proxxon/MM saw is probably the perfect tool for this job, but not for projects that are very much larger. A contractor saw will be adequate for this job too, and will, I think, be a much better investment. (The Metabo looks nice. It's one of the Elektra Beckum designs acquired in the takeover, but should be as tough as every other Metabo tool.)

I have nice tools too. I don't feel the need to list any of them though.


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## Lynx_Arc (Aug 6, 2008)

I wouldn't use a router for cutting plex, but for trimming it with a straightedge guide it would probably work just fine. I wouldn't take off more than 1/8 inch on a pass though as any router cutting too much material that is too thick will bog down and want to jump around and grab when it starts slowing. If you were around here I got a table saw that would work fine I have yet to take ownership of (inherited).


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## shinbone (Aug 6, 2008)

Out here on the west coast Tap Plastics has been my source for plastic materials. They are a retail chain that also does fabrication with conventional machine tooling for cutting and finishing (saws, routers, drill presses, sanders, etc. [laser work is done off-site]). Check their website and give one of the stores a call and they should be able to assist you with the types of blades and adhesives they are using for fabrication. I've always found them to be helpful for exactly the kinds of projects your working on.

Site link: http://www.tapplastics.com/index.php?

Added: Just noticed they have some instructional videos on their site too, such as how to build a box, cutting plastic sheets, and gluing.


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## VegasF6 (Aug 6, 2008)

Well, I was a bit tired yesterday when I wrote this and felt like I was getting shot down unfairly. I own some nice tools, and I own lots of cheap tools as well, depending on how much use I think they will get if they are worth it. However, I agree, it is fair to say that they are of dubious quality 

I haven't had the issue of my router walking away from me, it is just a matter of feeding against the rotation of the blade, not with it, but I am sure it could happen. 

Okay, thanks Luke.

I have nice tools too. I don't feel the need to list any of them though.[/quote]


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## LuxLuthor (Aug 7, 2008)

Some great information from everyone. Thanks!


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## dat2zip (Aug 7, 2008)

Maybe, you can get it laser cut. You can find the service through trophy, award places locally. Most have a machine that will do the job.

IIRC emachineshop.com will also laser cut.

Wayne


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## DM51 (Aug 9, 2008)

Great project, Lux. When I saw the thread title and post #1, I wondered if it might be this, and then you confirmed it in post #11. 

Have you tried opening up one of the NiCd packs? I have a nasty feeling they may be permanently sealed/glued to make them weatherproof.


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## LuxLuthor (Aug 10, 2008)

DM51 said:


> Great project, Lux. When I saw the thread title and post #1, I wondered if it might be this, and then you confirmed it in post #11.
> 
> Have you tried opening up one of the NiCd packs? I have a nasty feeling they may be permanently sealed/glued to make them weatherproof.



I'm working on this. They are permanently sealed. I almost hate these paper weight obsolete batteries enough to cut it apart, but I already know what is in them, how it is wired, and have all the source items to make my own plug interface to balance charger and interface to supply light mount.


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## DM51 (Aug 10, 2008)

The plastic of the cases is fragile, and I'm sure it would shatter unless it was cut carefully.

I undid the 4 hex screws round the connector on one of mine, but that didn't help move anything, so I bottled out of taking further action and replaced them, lol. Do you have a source for those same connector sockets/plugs?


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## LuxLuthor (Aug 10, 2008)

DM51 said:


> The plastic of the cases is fragile, and I'm sure it would shatter unless it was cut carefully.



Yeah, it is. When I look at the plastic used in the various Emoli/A123 tool packs, I think that type makes more sense to use. I ended up leaving the NiCd packs alone.



DM51 said:


> I undid the 4 hex screws round the connector on one of mine, but that didn't help move anything, so I bottled out of taking further action and replaced them, lol. Do you have a source for those same connector sockets/plugs?



I got them all at Mouser, but these "Tyco AMP" type 4 pin connectors is a pretty long parts list by the time you get the male/female plugs/sockets/pins/cable holder/shrink. Balance interface for my Hyperion LBA-10 uses a 7 pin (5 wires used) JST which I think I got at Digikey.


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## LuxLuthor (Aug 11, 2008)

LOL! This flashlight hobby is more like an alien parasite taking over your life. I have now pretty well decided to go for the table saw, as I have needed it many times before this for a number of projects. Probably check at Lowes or Home Despot.

Now I just have to figure out the best way to make those 4 "keyhole" anchoring slots. They are about 0.84" at the widest, and 0.325" at bottom of keyhole. I don't think a drill bit will work for the larger aspect. I wonder how it would respond to the high speed Dremel router attachment I have, after a drill starter hole?


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## VegasF6 (Aug 12, 2008)

Lux, that will be a pretty expensive battery pack what with the price of the table saw 

Well, in for a penny in for a pound. Do you have a router? Might as well buy that and a key hole bit while you are at it 

PS. Check Sears also, and Grizzly.com

I personally am not a fan of the light weight contractor saws, though I am sure they do the job. Find you a nice hybrid table saw with cast iron tables, replace the blade and get a blue belt. Sears has a saw with a Biesemeyer fence that is pretty decent. Then we can talk feed tables.


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## LuxLuthor (Aug 12, 2008)

LOL! Well this is cheap next to the battery pack welder I bought over a year ago. 

Actually, I was just looking at this Bosch at Home Despot's website....mainly want this mobile capability for outdoors use, and I'm not going to be building any houses with it. What do you think?

And they have keyhole templates for routers? Oh boy.


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## LukeA (Aug 12, 2008)

VegasF6 said:


> Well, I was a bit tired yesterday when I wrote this and felt like I was getting shot down unfairly. I own some nice tools, and I own lots of cheap tools as well, depending on how much use I think they will get if they are worth it. However, I agree, it is fair to say that they are of dubious quality
> 
> I haven't had the issue of my router walking away from me, it is just a matter of feeding against the rotation of the blade, not with it, but I am sure it could happen.
> 
> ...


[/QUOTE]

To be fair, the only times I've experienced the router walking is when cutting grooves.


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## LukeA (Aug 12, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> LOL! This flashlight hobby is more like an alien parasite taking over your life. I have now pretty well decided to go for the table saw, as I have needed it many times before this for a number of projects. Probably check at Lowes or Home Despot.
> 
> Now I just have to figure out the best way to make those 4 "keyhole" anchoring slots. They are about 0.84" at the widest, and 0.325" at bottom of keyhole. I don't think a drill bit will work for the larger aspect. I wonder how it would respond to the high speed Dremel router attachment I have, after a drill starter hole?



I would make the keyholes out of layers. One for the bottom, one with the .84 in. dia slots, and one with the four top keyhole shapes. Solvent welded together, it'll be as strong as a single piece. I would cut with a dremel (then trim the meltings of course) or a coping saw after cutting a starter hole.


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## VegasF6 (Aug 12, 2008)

I don't have any experience with the Bosch saw, but the stand does look pretty nifty. How mobile do you need it to be? Mobile like roll it across concrete, or mobile like roll it through rough terrain?

For the type of work I was usually doing, weight was your friend. And fence quality was a biggie. But, of course your requirements are different. I am a bit out of touch with woodworking lately but a couple to look at are the Ridgid contractor saw, and believe it or not, the Ryobi BT3100. The Ryobi has an amazing amount of support. It isn't that it is such a great saw to begin with, but a lot can be done with it (for the money). Here is a forum pretty much dedicated to it's use.
http://www.bt3central.com/

The Craftsman 21829 is a possible option too. (an newer version of the Ryobi)
See if this link will get you anywhere, discussing the Bosch, Ridgid and Craftsman clone. And this one on the Bosch. If I was still doing side work the Bosch would be one I would consider.

Here is a keyhole bit by CMT, a rather good manufacturer:
http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/cmtkey.htm and even do a search for "dremel key hole bit"
The Ridgid and the Ryobi both allow mounting of a router table, something to consider in your purchase. 

I am looking at this project of yours from a woodworkers view point as it was a hobby for awhile. Most of it should translate to your needs, but can't swear to it  As I stated earlier I did do acrylic manufacturing for a couple years but it was pretty much the same thing day in and day out. Making bath tubs  I probably inhaled more fiberglass dust then I should have. 

Well that is enough running at the mouth for me, keep us update :wave:

P.S. You may want to check your local Craig's list too.


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## will (Aug 12, 2008)

I have a small Delta table saw that I have been using for a few years. This does the job for small projects, but leaves a lot to be desired for working with larger sheet goods. There is not enough 'table' behind the blade and not enough on either side to support larger pieces of wood. You can get extensions and add to the size of the table. Also - with these contractor saws the blade is attached directly to the motor. Larger table saws are belt drive and the motors are generally quieter. 

I have attached a shop vac to all my tools to collect dust and chips. This makes for less dust in the air and cleaning up easier.


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## shinbone (Aug 12, 2008)

If your area has a Craigslist.com, you might want to give it a search as there are often people selling quality items cheap. I recently purchased a $500 Jet 14" bandsaw for $350 and it had never been opened. Lots of people buy this stuff for a specific purpose, such as a remodel, then sell it because they can't afford to store it or need the space back for other things. Worth an initial look.


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## VegasF6 (Aug 12, 2008)

The Craftsman is a belt drive.


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## QtrHorse (Aug 12, 2008)

Lux you will be fine with using a table saw. The more teeth the blade has, the better chance you will have of not cracking the acrylic. As stated, the IPS glue is your best bet. They also make quite a few other types under different brand names. If you look up sign supply shops in your area, they will have what you need. Just tell them you are looking for acrylic glue. Maybe get the light and heavy glue. The light glue will dry much quicker so you will not have to hold the pcs and then come back with the heavy glue. If your cuts are fairly smooth after the cuts, use a torch and flame polish the edges. This will make them clear just like the face of the acrylic. All you need to do is maybe lightly sand the edges and then run the flam over the edges until you get a clear smooth edge. Do not hold the flame on any one spot too long, just pass the flame over them quickly.

I have used acrylic in many different applications.

PM sent


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## saabluster (Aug 13, 2008)

QtrHorse said:


> Lux you will be fine with using a table saw. The more teeth the blade has, the better chance you will have of not cracking the acrylic. As stated, the IPS glue is your best bet. They also make quite a few other types under different brand names. If you look up sign supply shops in your area, they will have what you need. Just tell them you are looking for acrylic glue. Maybe get the light and heavy glue. The light glue will dry much quicker so you will not have to hold the pcs and then come back with the heavy glue. If your cuts are fairly smooth after the cuts, use a torch and flame polish the edges. This will make them clear just like the face of the acrylic. All you need to do is maybe lightly sand the edges and then run the flam over the edges until you get a clear smooth edge. Do not hold the flame on any one spot too long, just pass the flame over them quickly.
> 
> I have used acrylic in many different applications.
> 
> PM sent


 
Sounds like the talk of a fellow sign man. I have been in the sign industry for the last 14 years and I concur with you wholeheartedly. Been there. Done that.


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## QtrHorse (Aug 13, 2008)

saabluster said:


> Sounds like the talk of a fellow sign man. I have been in the sign industry for the last 14 years and I concur with you wholeheartedly. Been there. Done that.


 
I read your other thread about your long throw and was going to chime in to a fellow sign dog. What was the name of your company? I have been in the sign industry for roughly 19 years. I have worked at two different sign companies for a total of 11 years and have worked for sign supply companies for the past 8 years. I worked for Reece Supply a few years ago, they would have most likely sold to you. 

I have about 20 modules of the older Gelcore brightest white LED they used to make. I have no idea what the LED modules are and how to take them out of the housing without damaging them. I know they were blinding white though. You get some good samples working for the sign supply companies.

Sorry about getting off topic Lux but you don't see too many fellow sign man on flashlight forums.


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## saabluster (Aug 13, 2008)

QtrHorse said:


> I read your other thread about your long throw and was going to chime in to a fellow sign dog. What was the name of your company? I have been in the sign industry for roughly 19 years. I have worked at two different sign companies for a total of 11 years and have worked for sign supply companies for the past 8 years. I worked for Reece Supply a few years ago, they would have most likely sold to you.
> 
> I have about 20 modules of the older Gelcore brightest white LED they used to make. I have no idea what the LED modules are and how to take them out of the housing without damaging them. I know they were blinding white though. You get some good samples working for the sign supply companies.
> 
> Sorry about getting off topic Lux but you don't see too many fellow sign man on flashlight forums.


WOW! Reece is where I got almost all my stuff from. They gave me a nice Gelcore sample once when I was trying to work up an idea of back lighting some plex for one of my customers. I take it you live here in Dallas? My business name was just my name. I did not need anything fancy as all my work was subcontractor stuff. Mostly Fastsigns and Sign-a Rama plus a few mom and pops.


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## QtrHorse (Aug 13, 2008)

saabluster said:


> WOW! Reece is where I got almost all my stuff from. They gave me a nice Gelcore sample once when I was trying to work up an idea of back lighting some plex for one of my customers. I take it you live here in Dallas? My business name was just my name. I did not need anything fancy as all my work was subcontractor stuff. Mostly Fastsigns and Sign-a Rama plus a few mom and pops.


 
I worked at the San Antonio location but was involved in the company on the executive level somewhat as well. You don't normally see sign people leave the business, much less to start making custom lights. It's like being in the mafia, you can never leave.


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## saabluster (Aug 14, 2008)

QtrHorse said:


> You don't normally see sign people leave the business,



That is unbelievably funny that you say that. It has been something me and my brother have been saying for years. We were both in it. He recently was able to get out as well. Hopefully it sticks.


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## Lynx_Arc (Aug 14, 2008)

I inherited two scroll saws but have only cut a CD case with it and am not very practiced. If I was really good at it I would volunteer to do cuts. I have a Hegner parallel arm and a digital speed controlled Delta C arm scroll saw.


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## will (Aug 14, 2008)

Lynx_Arc said:


> I inherited two scroll saws but have only cut a CD case with it and am not very practiced. .



It is very difficult to get a perfectly straight cut with a scroll saw. In a pinch, you can cut the plexiglass, then sand the edge straight. You would be surprised by the number of dips left by the scroll say.


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## VegasF6 (Aug 21, 2008)

Hey Lux, did you ever pick up a table saw? I was at Costco yesterday and they had this model, the Bosch 4000-09 with the gravity rise stand for $349! I have to admit it got me drooling a little bit even though I couldn't figure out what I would do with another table saw. But it did look sweet and that was a heck of a price. I don't guess you have a Costco anywhere in your vicinity?

I also see Bosch has a newer model, the 4100-09. I am having a hard time finding the differences. The 4100 is a little lighter and is listed as having a slightly weaker motor, but this thread makes the 4100 sound a little better. I guess I would let price make that decision for me.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=81344

Whoops, I do see that there are 5 Costco's listed in Connecticut. I have no idea what city you live in but with a tiny state like that, I imagine they are all within walking distance


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## LuxLuthor (Aug 21, 2008)

I almost walked out with one...but when I came home to do a further comparison, I had a message from a member to help me and who has experience with plexy...so as of now I still don't have a table saw. Alas, there's not a Costco within 60 miles, but thanks for tip.


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## DM51 (Sep 10, 2008)

Any progress on this project? 

Peak Beam don't say what chemistry they will be using in their MBP-1307 Li-Ion battery, and they don't give a release date either.


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## LuxLuthor (Sep 11, 2008)

It's progressing.

PB is using old Lithium Cobalt.


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