# Bowie/Rambo Knife



## f155mph (May 11, 2006)

Ever since I saw my first Rambo movie when I was a little kid I always wanted a Rambo knife. Now that I am older I want to get one. 

Can someone recommend one? 

I don't want to spend too much so cheaper the better, but I don't want junk either.

Thanks!


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## jbg23 (May 11, 2006)

Will you be using this or just want to have one? You can get them cheap on ebay, but they wont really hold up well under heavy use. Just search survival knife, or rambo knife.


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## Planterz (May 11, 2006)

Look at Ontario's bayonets.


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## Lee1959 (May 11, 2006)

You can buy the licensed copies of the Rambo knives from United Cutlery. I would owever recommend a much better knife if this is to be used for any real type of outdoor "survival" uses. Hollow handled knives as a rule, a few exceptions like the Reeves knives, are poor choices as they are weak at the handle blade junction. And most sawback are fairly useless for cutting wood or anythign else, and create stress riser fracture points in the blade if they are square cut. A knife with partial serrations is much more effective. 

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_store.html?ttl=Rambo%20Knives&srch=eqCATE%20CODEdatarq%3Duc%26eqKEYWORDdatarq%3Drambo


The following is a post I placed elsewhere on tactical (or survival) knives. Remember this is simply my opinion based upon my own experiences hunting, woods wandering and making my own knives.

Having spent the better part of the last 45 years enamored with knives, I have seen many crazes come and go, the lastest is the "tactical" knife. There are so many interpretations of what this is, it is almot scary, and a bit expensive. Here is my take on it, and like all my other posts, this is strictly my opinion, formed by my experiences and prejudices, your mileage may vary. However, I have been told by a few, that I have a sligt idea of what makes a workable knife. 

Definition of what the tactical knife should be:


Webster's dictionary provides the following definition for tactical:
1 : of or relating to combat tactics : as a (1) : of or occurring at the battlefront <tactical defense> <tactical first strike> (2) : using or being weapons or forces employed at the battlefront <tactical missiles> b of an air force : of, relating to, or designed for air attack in close support of friendly ground forces
2 a : of or relating to tactics : as (1) : of or relating to small-scale actions serving a larger purpose (2) : made or carried out with only a limited or immediate end in view b : adroit in planning or maneuvering to accomplish a purpose

Now many immediately grab onto the military or paramilitary aspect of tactical and run with it. This kind of explains the myriad of tanto bladed, camoflaged, thick bladed, sawtooth backed, large crossguarded prybar knives meant to fight WWIII and survive. 

I however choose to consider tactical as the second part of the definition, of or relating to small-scale actions serving a larger purpose. The express larger purpose can be summed up in 5 words. The art of staying alive. And I mean this in the broadest sense of the definition, a tactical knife to me, serves all the actions, great and small that go into staying alive. This means everyday life, and time spent wandering the woods in some form, much more than it means combat. Since I am not in the military, nor a paramilitary, or police organization, my every day life will seldom, if ever (I am not a huge end of worlder) encompass combat. The amount of time spent defending my life will be a relatively small part of any knifes use, therefore it should logically be, a small part of its design, albiet a consideration. 


Design/construction of the tactical knife These apply to both fixed blades and folders:

Blade shape: 

There are a lot of designs for knives, and almost any shape works well. The ones I would consider the least useful for a tactical knife would be tanto, and straight skinner upsweep such as the Sheep Skinner design by Green River. Bowie, modified drop point, modified spear point, and modified skinner (such as the Nessmuck style) are perhaps the best. 

Blade enhancements:

Sawteeth and notches in the tip for wire cutters, or gut hooks are not desirable. They create stress risers in the blade where it can snap when torqued, and places for the blade to "catch" and pull when being worked with in soft materials, not to mention if the blade is not cleaned very very well, places for bacterica to grow and be transferred to food. Few sawteeth work well on wood. If one must have something to cut thick fiberous materials, or hard plastic or wood, strong Spyderco style serrations work better than most saw teeth and are less damaging to the blade itself. These are best placed on the bottom edge of the blade in the back, instead of on the spine where you might choke up on a hold or wish to rap with a baton to cut thru wood. These make shift wire cutter notches in blades, with a matching stud on the sheath will at best end in a chipped or dulled edge, or worst, snapping off the blade tip when torqued. Serrations however do have the same issues where bacterial growth are concerned, they must be kept very clean. 

Guards/Bolsters:

Double guards are not needed on a knife, the exception being on a stright fighter style where you use it to parry a blade from hitting your wrist, and they in fact happer your ability to perfrom some tasks by choking up. A small single tine guard or bolsters however work well, and add a bit of extra weight to the blade for balance. I like and use guardless blades alot , but a guard of some type, integral or added and soldered in place is preferable in most tactical knives. 

Handles:

I love buffalo horn, but, it is perhaps not the best choice. The best choises are materials that are impervious to caustic fluids and not slippery when wet. Sealed hardwoods at the least, and stablized hardwoods and micartas are even better in this role. Checkering, stippling, are two ways to make the blade stay in the hand without moving. Linen micarta has a natural tacky feel to it wen wet due to the linen fibers. Hollow handles are weak at the handle/blade joint unless made intragally like the Chris Reeves hollow handles. 

Locks/Folders: 

A lock is generally considered preferable to a non- locking folder. Not all locks are created equal however. there are soem really inventive new locks that create almost a fixed blade positive lock. The one style I am biased against is the straight liner lock, they can and do fail if dirty, or used left handed. They however can be very reliable with the additon of a liner lock safety such as the LAWKS, make sure yours has this if you use a liner lock. 

Blade materials:

This is a real controversial subject. Forged steel is not magic, the 440 series of steels have made fine knives for YEARS when done right, and stainless steel DOES need care as it is stain less, not stain free, it will rust if you try hard enough. Any knife steel, forged or ground, will if done correctly, with the right dimensions, geometry, and heat treating and tempering create an excellant knife. 

Blade grind:

I prefer a full flat grind so the blade slide thru the material being cut with the least resistance. Tanto grinds on one side, deep hollow grinds, and grinds that start halfway or so down the width of the blade I find either too fragile or toomuch resistance when slicing thru materials, such a vine, or rope. 

Blade thickness:

I have seldom found that a blade needs to be thicker than 1/4" and only then on a blade that is wide and long enough. 3/16th inch is generally thick enough for most using blades in the 5 to 6 inch range. 6 to 10 inch blades, about 2 inches wide will be good with 1/4 thick spine.

Blade finish:

There are a myriad of blade finishes today ranging from camoflage to mirror polish. I am of the opinion that the painted finishes are mostly cosmetic and eye grabbing. With general sensible care even carbon steel does not need a coating for protection. If one prefers a non reflective finish, bead blasting or a matte finish with and papers will accomplich the same, and make a much more handsome package. 

Like I said in the beginning, this is strictly my thoughts upon the subject this morning, I might think of more, and I am certain that not everyone will agree. Each person much use and choose what works for them.


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## Chronos (May 11, 2006)

A good Buckmaster 182 will probably set you back $200-300. I'm sorry I didn't buy one years ago. 

I picked up a decent knock-off on eBay for $50 or so. I've used it on numerous climbs and hikes and it has held up quite well.


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## GarageBoy (May 12, 2006)

Rambo knife? (i wouldn't use it, but its a nice piece of art)
Contact Lile
http://www.knifeart.com/lileknives.html (not his site, but theres a pic)


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## f155mph (May 12, 2006)

I don't plan to use it, but I might take it for camping for chopping small tree branch and stuff.

Thanks for the info so far. I saw the Buckmaster too on Ebay, way too expensive for me. However I wouldn't mind a knock-off. Where can I find one at for $50?


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## CLHC (May 12, 2006)

I saw a forged one at The Royal Hawaiian that was going for $900.00+ with a 3~4 month wait period. That was in 1985/86(?). I did get to "feel" that one, and the mass produced ones were no where near to the heft of that expensive one.

Maybe you can try Hibben Knives—


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## Flotsam (May 12, 2006)

I'd suggest looking at the Becker Combat/Utility 7 - it's around $50, well made, and would serve you well. Not as much gee-whiz factor as others, but a good, solid working knife. I have used knifeworks.com in the past w/ excellent results.


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## Santelmo (May 12, 2006)

Ahhhhhh, yes! The nostalgia and "cool when I was younger" factor of the Rambo knife lives on. Many serious or dignified knife knuts wouldn't admit it, but once upon a time it did reign as the "knife to get" in its heyday, much like the recent fascination with the Tracker/WSK knife (thanks to "The Hunted" and Tom Brown). 

Marginally OK I suppose as a functional knife, but if it floats your boat I say let the man have what he wants, he's earned it!


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## Jumpmaster (May 12, 2006)

If you find one for $50.00, it probably will not stand up to even the minimal use you intend for it.

Good luck though. If you want a Rambo "type" knife, you might look at the Ontario M9 bayonet. It is a large knife, not too expensive, and decent quality. The cheapie Rambo knives I have seen at gun shows are just ****** quality.

JM-99


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## RebelRAM (May 12, 2006)

A good Ka-Bar would probably meet your needs and be in your price range, and they do look cool too. They have been used in the armed forces for decades.
I have the original design 7" USMC Ka-Bar, but some of the newer models have Kraton handles if you want something that is more durable than the old stacked leather style handle.

As to which knife is usually the one I take into the woods with me, that would be a CRKT M60 spearpoint blade. It's only 4.5" but it's an ideal size and it has AUS-8 steel so it's fairly tough but not a royal pain to sharpen. For general camp use, most anything over a 6" blade is way too big.


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## CLHC (May 12, 2006)

Check out those Swamp Rat Knives while you're at it—


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## blindsided (May 13, 2006)

f155mph said:


> Ever since I saw my first Rambo movie when I was a little kid I always wanted a Rambo knife. Now that I am older I want to get one.
> 
> Can someone recommend one?
> 
> ...


 

Here is the link for any Rambo knife you could ever want...

http://www.swordsdirect.com/rambo_knives.html

after finding this, i think i want one


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## MScottz (May 13, 2006)

420J2 is a great steel!




.....for butter knives that is.....

I hope if you buy one of these it is for display and not actual use, you will be disappointed.


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## PhantomZ (May 13, 2006)

i've held the one with the green handle before at my local camping/surplus store. the handle is kinda slippery, hard and for me it's not very comfortable to hold.


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## edakoppo (May 26, 2006)

If you really want a hollow-handled knife get a Chris Reeve--they're made from a single piece of steel and won't fall apart like most hollow-handled knives. Reeves are reasonably priced for what they are, unlike Liles. The authorized Rambo clones are aluminum handles glued to junk steel and are suitable only for display, except the Rambo III, which is a full-tang piece of junk steel suitable only for display.


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## bubbacatfish (May 27, 2006)

Gotta go with edakoppo on this one, you can get a shorter bladed (4"-5.5") Chris Reeve hollow handle knife starting about $200-$225 without looking too hard, look a bit harder & you could find one for even less. I've got a SableIV and love it. Join one of the knife forums & it won't take too long to find a deal. Here's the link Chris Reeve link so you can take a look at his knives, 

www.chrisreeve.com/pffixed.htm 

Personally I've wanted a Robert Parrish knife since I first saw one years and years ago but they're not much cheaper then Lile knives (if you can find one)...


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## Synergy (May 27, 2006)

A less expensive option than the Chris Reeve would be a SOG SEAL or Cold Steel SRK or similar


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## sween1911 (Jun 1, 2006)

Synergy said:


> A less expensive option than the Chris Reeve would be a SOG SEAL or Cold Steel SRK or similar



+1 

I have a CS SRK and the Carbon V steel is fantastic. Razor edge and it holds up to just about anything.

The term "Rambo knife" is very misleading. The usage of an object should determine it's form. Are you getting one so it's cool to have, or would you intend to use it for outdoot/utlity/self-defense?


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## TENMMIKE (Sep 28, 2008)

yes this is a old thread but look at things that are going on
http://www.jimmylile.com/index.php


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## Patriot (Oct 3, 2008)

TENMMIKE said:


> yes this is a old thread but look at things that are going on
> http://www.jimmylile.com/index.php




Interesting for sure but I think they lost me at this point..... 

*"The price of our ALL NEW “NEXT GENERATION” LILE FIRST BLOOD is $3500 plus shipping."*

 

I have my choice of a great number of knives at that price and my Rambo nostalgia love just doen't run $3500 deep.


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## XFlash (Oct 3, 2008)

I couldn't find one I liked either so I
made my own. Pictures are of my prototype.
I have given it a good work out and I love it.
It has 8 inch blade and extra large phanolloy
handle, 1/4 inch thick steel, almost indestructable.


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## Patriot (Oct 7, 2008)

XFlash said:


> I couldn't find one I liked either so I
> made my own. Pictures are of my prototype.
> I have given it a good work out and I love it.
> It has 8 inch blade and extra large phanolloy
> handle, 1/4 inch thick steel, almost indestructable.




A nice DIY'r. Tool steel or something else?


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