# Zebralight SC62 (XM-L2, 1x18650) review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!



## selfbuilt (Nov 19, 2014)

The SC62 is a new compact 1x18650 light from Zebralight (and uses the same circuit as the H600/H602 headlamp). In flashlight form, the SC62 looks like a slightly longer version of the 1xAA SC52 flashlight. It uses a similar PID thermal regulation system as the SC600-II that I have reviewed previously.

I expect performance will be close to the SC600-II, with a beam pattern similar to the SC52. Scroll down to find out exactly how it compares to other lights. :wave:

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:*
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


LED: Cree XM-L2 Cool White (Nominal CCT 6300K)
User Selectable Levels: 3 main levels (High, Medium and Low). Each main level can be programmed to one of its two sub-levels. The second sub-level of the each main levels can be further programmed to different brightness levels.
Light Output (runtimes): High: H1 1000 Lm (PID, approx 2 hr) or H2 620 Lm (PID, approx 2.5 hrs) / 350 Lm (3.9 hrs) / 160 Lm (11 hrs) - Medium: M1 70 Lm (30 hrs) or M2 32 Lm (66 hrs) / 12 Lm (172 hrs) - Low: L1 3.7 Lm (16 days) or L2 0.4 Lm (2.5 months) / 0.06 Lm (4.6 months) / 0.01 Lm (5.5 months) - Beacon Strobe Mode: 0.2Hz Beacon at Low / 0.2Hz Beacon at H1 / 4Hz Strobe at H1 / 19Hz Strobe at H1
Light output are ANSI out the front (OTF) values. Runtimes tested (and parasitic drain estimated) using ZL634 batteries.
Operating Voltage Range: 2.7V - 4.2V
Battery: One 18650 size (up to 69mm long) 3.6/3.7V li-ion rechargeable. Batteries are not included in the package.
Parasitic Drain: Negligible (much less than the self discharging of a battery)
Beam Type: 80 degree spill, 12 degree hot spot
Dimensions: Head Diameter: 0.96 inch (24.4 mm), Length: 3.8 inch (96.5 mm)
Weight: 1.4 oz (40 gram) 
PID thermal regulated outputs (1000 and 620 Lm)
Battery capacity indicator (LED flashes 1-4 times, 4 short clicks to start)
Automatic stepping down from High to Medium, and from Medium to Low when battery capacity is low
Built-in over-discharging protection (2.7V cutoff)
Durable electronic soft-touch switch
Smart user interface provides fast and easy access to all brightness levels and beacon-strobes.
Precision machined unibody casing from premium grade aluminum bar stocks
Proprietary heat sinking design bonds the LED board directly to the unibody aluminum casing
Durable natural hard anodized finish (Type III Class I)
Sealed and potted LED driver circuitry
Battery reverse polarity protection
Tempered optical grade glass
Orange peel textured reflector
Waterproof to IPX7 (2 meters, 30 minutes)
MSRP: ~$85






Inside the standard eco-friendly Zebralight cardboard box, you fill find the light with pocket clip, spare o-rings, and manual.













From left to right: Keeppower Protected 18650 3100mAh; Zebralight SC62, SC600-II, ; Skilhunt DS20; Olight S20-2013; Thrunite Neutron 2C 2014; Eagletac D25LC2; Nitecore EC20.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Zebralight SC62*: Weight: 42.3g, Length: 96.5mm, Width (bezel): 23.2mm, Width (max) 26.1mm
*Zebralight SC52*: Weight 39.5g, Length 79.0mm, Width (bezel): 22.6mm, Width (max) 25.4mm
*Zebralight SC600 II*: Weight 79.3g, Length: 101.8mm, Width (bezel) 29.7mm

*Eagletac D25LC2*: Weight: 50.0g, Length: 116.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.5mm
*Eagletac TX25C2*: Weight 93.6g, Length: 120.4mm, Width (bezel): 31.6mm
*Fenix PD35*: Weight: 82.7g, Length: 138.1mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm
*Nitecore EC20*: Weight: 77.1g, Length: 129.2mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm
*Nitecore P10*: Weight 82.0g, Length: 135.1mm, Width (bezel): 25.5mm
*Nitecore P12*: Weight: 89.7g, Length: 139.4mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm
*Olight S20 (2013, XM-L2)*: Weight: 52.4g, Length: 106.5mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Skilhunt DS20*: Weight: 53.8g, Length: 110.0mm, Width (bezel): 24.0mm
*Sunwayman C20C*: Weight 57.6g, Length: 104.8mm. Width (bezel): 25.6mm
*Thrunite TN12-2014*: Weight: 80.0g, Length: 140.5mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm






















The overall build is very similar to the 1xAA SC52. The body is a little longer and wider to accommodate an 18650 cell of course, but the overall head seems identical. The most obvious changes from the SC600-II are the smaller head and new body-ridge design (internal body diameter is identical). The SC62 is certainly quite compact for the 18650 class. 

Gone is the traditional knurling of the SC600-II. Instead, the SC62 shares a similar raised ridge design as the SC52. The fins in the head are even more pronounced on the SC62. Grip is good thanks to all the ridge detail on the body 

Anodizing on my sample is the "dark gray" natural finish from Zebralight. I had found recently that a lot of Zebralights seem to have a lighter olive color. Personally, I'm glad to see this darker color back again – but realize that natural anodizing can be highly variable.

The SC62 comes with a removable metal pocket clip, held in place by two regular Phillips head screws. This looks to be the same as the SC52, and differs from the more easily removable clip of the SC600-II.

As with many other Zebralights, the SC62 has a small flat-bottomed tailcap, and an electronic control switch in their head. The electronic switch cover has a textured grip, and is well recessed (i.e., Zebralight has increasingly recessed the switch over the years, to reduce accidental activation). Switch feel is firm, with a definite "click" – very similar to my SC600-II (i.e., firmer than my original SC52).

Tailcap threads are anodized, allowing for tailcap lockout. :thumbsup: This is important on all lights with electronic switches, as accidental activation can be an issue. Threads seem of comparable size and thickness as the SC600-II (although the tailcap itself is slightly smaller, with a design similar to the SC52). The light can tailstand.

As with the SC600-II, there is a small spring on the positive terminal contact board in the head. All my 18650 cells seem to fit and work inside the light (although really long or thick protected high capacity batteries may have issues).










The head looks very much the same as the SC52. The light has a flat stainless steel bezel ring that appears to be press-fit into place. Reflector is lightly textured, and seems to be the same dimensions as the SC52. The cool white XM-L2 emitter was well centered on my sample (neutral white also available). I would expect a very similar beam pattern as the SC52, but with a max output closer to the SC600-II.

*User Interface*

The SC62 uses the latest variant of the Zebralight interface (i.e., very similar to my SC600-II). While it may sound a little complex when first described, it is actually quite easy to use. 

As always, On/Off and all mode switching is controlled by the single electronic clicky switch. The main level choices are Lo – Med – Hi. There are two possible memorized outputs at each level, commonly referred to as 1 or 2 (e.g. L1/L2, M1/M2, H1/H2). And for each of the second levels, you can choose between 2 or 3 options. This gives you a total of 11 constant outputs to choose from. There are also 4 blinking modes. 

I know that may sound confusing, but the interface is actually well laid out for simple operation. Let me walk you through everything:

_Basic Operation_

By default, the light is set to come on in a Hi, Med or Low mode. You could therefore easily use the light as a simple, straight-forward three-mode light, if you want.

To get Hi initially, do a quick single click from Off. A double-quick-click from Off gets you Med. A slightly longer press and hold from Off (i.e. >0.6 sec) turns on the light in the Lo mode. 

At any time when On, simply press-and-hold to advance through Lo > Med > Hi, in a repeating loop. Release the switch to select the level. As before, a quick click turns off the light.

A triple-quick-click from Off gets you Beacon/Strobe mode. 

As with everything on a Zebralight, it takes a bit of use to get the timings right. For example, if you click again too soon after a turning On, you may get an unexpected mode (i.e., need to wait a sec before trying to turn Off).

_Secondary Modes_

When On, a quick double-click at any time switches to/from the secondary mode for that level (referred to as 1 or 2 for each level). So for example, double-click to move from H1 to H2. The light will memorize your choice and return to it next time you cycle or turn on at this level. The memory even lasts through battery changes.

_Advanced Operation_

As with other Zebralights, you also have a few choices as to what the secondary mode can be for each level. In fact, there are 3 possible H2 levels and L2 levels, and 2 possible M2 levels (as before).

To enter the programming feature, double-click the light 6 times rapidly in any given level. Now, every additional double-click will advance you through the two/three programmable options for that level. To select the mode you want as the secondary level, simply turn off the light once you have made your choice. When you next turn it on, that last level will have been memorized (as H2, M2 or L2), and returned to automatically. 

This same maneuver works for selecting the blinking modes as well (accessed as triple-click from Off). So, you switch between the four blinking options by double-clicking the switch once On in this state (a single click reverts you to the constant output modes). Mode sequence for the blinking modes is: Hi Beacon > Slow Strobe > Fast Strobe > Lo Beacon, in repeating sequence.

_Battery Indicator_

Another feature is a relative battery life remaining indicator. Quadrupule-click the switch from Off, and the main emitter flashes out a relative battery strength (flashes 1-4 times, with 4 being nearly fully charged).

And that’s it – it is really very simple in practice, once you get used to the timings. :wave:

*Video Overview*: 

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:



As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

*PWM/Strobe*

As with my other Zebralight lights, I don't see any signs of pulse width modulation (PWM) on any the lower output modes. The light appears to be fully current controlled at all levels. 

Fast Strobe:





The fast strobe mode is a disorienting ~18Hz tactical strobe. :green:

Slow Strobe:





The slow strobe has a frequency of ~4 Hz, which makes it a good general signaling strobe.

Hi Beacon:





Lo Beacon:





The beacon modes have a common frequency of one quick flash, exactly every 5 secs. The intensity is different between the two modes (i.e., one at max, one at a lower level)

The blinking modes are basically unchanged from the SC600-II

*Standby Drain*

Due to the electronic switch, all Zebralights have a constant parasitic stand-by current drain when the tailcap is connected. 

My SC62 has a negligible 4.3uA on 18650 (exactly the same as my SC600-II). This is well below the self-discharge rate of a standard battery, and not at all a concern (i.e., for a 3100mAh cell, that would theoretically translate into over 82 years before the battery would be drained). 

As before, you can fully break this current - and physically lock-out the light - by twisting the tailcap a quarter turn.

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences.

Let's start with a comparison to other popular compact 1x18650 lights:





























































The SC62 has the beam profile you would expect, given the overall size. In fact, it's probably helpful to compare to the SC600-II and SC52 from Zebralight (as it is has basically the same circuit as the SC600-II, but in a body with the same size head as the SC52).

















































Take-home message is that the SC62 is not as throwy as the SC600-II. And if matched for output, would look the same as the SC52.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).

Note that I have updated the lumen estimates for a few of the highly-driven lights, based on 3100mAh 18650 testing.






As you can see above, the SC62 has virtually the same dynamic range as the SC600-II. The initial difference in max output is subtle – you can only detect it with a lightmeter/lightbox. See my runtimes for more information as to what happens over time, however.

Throw is of course reduced at all levels, due to the smaller head.

Let's see how all the initial output levels compare to the SC600-II, on my estimated lumen scale:






My SC62 and SC600-II have some very minor variation between a few of the levels. I would consider them generally equivalent for output.

As you will see above, my lumen estimates are pretty close to Zebralights specs (at least for non-moonlight modes). But as always, note that my lumen estimation method is just an estimate based on the calibration of my lightbox. As such, don't get caught up on the _absolute_ difference between lights or levels, as I can't guarantee absolute accuracy. Focus instead on the _relative_ differences, as that is internally consistent across all my reviews.

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*

I previously used AW protected 2200mAh batteries in all my runtime tests, due to their ability to fit and work in every light – and their consistent capacity levels across samples and batches over time. I have been testing a variety of brands of protected NCR18650A (3100mAh capacity) batteries, to see if I can provide compilations that fit in different lights – but show similar performance characteristics. I have found a range of brands that show good correlations and internal consistency, so will now start showing 3100mAh runtimes in my reviews. :wave:

Note that all my standard runtimes are done under a cooling fan, as always. This is an important reminder, given the use of a common PID (Proportional-Integral-Differential) thermal regulation algorithm on the SC62 and SC600-II. You can read up more about PID controllers online, but basically they are a more sophisticated mechanism to regulate circuit function in regards to temperature than the typical step-down features we are used to with flashlights. The controller has to be specifically customized to the build in question, and can be thought of a refinement/replacement of the typical current-control regulation we are more commonly used to. 










The first observation on Max (Hi1) is that the PID thermal regulation drops the output faster on the SC62 than it does on the SC600-II. Zebralight confirms that two lights are using the same PID algorithm, so the difference must be due to the lower mass of the SC62 head (and thus, its reduced heatsinking ability). Again, you are looking at runtimes done under a cooling fan above – scroll down for a more real-world comparison without cooling.

A second observation is that the SC600-II and SC62 are indeed equivalent for output/runtime performance across levels. There really is nothing to distinguish the curves for the Hi2A level on down.

As before, Zebralight's SC62/SC600-II show excellent overall efficiency and regulation on 18650. :thumbsup:

Let's see how the SC62 performs on max, with and without cooling:






Without externally supplied cooling, the PID thermal regulation circuitry will lower output to a greater extent. As with the SC600-II (which uses the same algorithm), there are a lot of very finely discriminated steps in output change occurring (i.e., the "messy" aspect of the curves above). These will not be apparent to you in practice, as they are too subtle to see (i.e., only the lightbox can detect them).

My non-cooled SC600-II showed a less dramatic (and rapid) reduction in output, compare to the non-cooled SC62 runtime above. Again, I suspect this is due to the lower thermal mass for heatsinking available on the SC62. :shrug:

Note as well that both the Hi1 and H2A levels use PID, so you can expect some potential reduction on both levels. Of course, any reduction in output will increase the runtime (as you can see above for the Hi1 mode). 

_*UPDATE*: As requested, here is a comparison of hand-holding vs fan cooling on the PID-controlled output:






I held the light on max with thumb just below switch, index finger behind the head, and hand wrapped around body. I found the SC62 too hot to hold for more than ~3-4 mins without switching hands (i.e., thumb and index finger get too hot). After doing this several times, I let the light sit with no cooling for a few mins, followed by several mins of fan cooling. I then again held it for a few mins, let go with no cooling, and finally turned the fan back on. 

As you can see above, hand-holding results in clearly intermediate output compared to fan cooling or no cooling. As an aside, I am quite impressed by the rapid responsiveness of the PID thermal regulation system. It responds almost instantly to any change in the surroundings._

In case you are wondering how different 18650 batteries compare at the highest level, here is a comparison:

]





It's hard to see, but the AW protected 2200mAh batteries do show a slight reduction in initial output, compared to the other batteries. But the PID thermal control tends to regulate all batteries to similar output levels very quickly. 

As you can tell from above, the higher current rated cells (i.e., Samsung 20R and Panasonic NCR18650PF) tend to use up most of their stored energy before step-down occurs. 

*Potential Issues*

Like its SC600-II predecessor, the SC62 is 1x18650 only (i.e., it doesn't take 2xCR123A or 2xRCR).

As with other heavily-driven lights, some 18650s may not be able to handle the sustained discharge rate on Max. I recommend you stick with high-quality cells.

Some thicker or longer high-capacity cells may be a tight fit in the SC62, just as they were in the SC600-II (i.e., internal body diameter of the lights is the same)

Switch timing takes a little getting used, if you aren’t already familiar with Zebralight. 

*Preliminary Observations*

Performance-wise, the SC62 is basically the SC600-II carried over into a smaller body. The same is true of the H600/H602 headlamp, which should have identical performance to the SC62 tested here. :wave:

This results in some obvious differences – due to the smaller head, the SC62 won't throw as far as the SC600-II. Similarly, due to the reduced mass for heatsinking, you can expect the PID thermal regulation feature to drop output more quickly on the H1 and H2A modes of the SC62/H600/H602 (compared to the original SC600-II, which uses the same PID algorithm). Zebralight informs me that initial max output is also a tiny bit lower on the SC62/H600/H602, due to one component that had to be reduced to fit inside the smaller head. My results confirm this minute difference on initial HiA output.

As before, I like the sophistication of the PID thermal control. As you can see in my detailed testing above (and in my SC600-II review), this is an efficient way to maintain a good balance between output and runtime. In the case of a heavily-driven but small-body light like SC62, this is a reassuring feature. :bow:

Output/runtime efficiency remains top-of-class for the SC62, just like the SC600-II (which has equivalent output levels). :thumbsup: As always, I quite like the low battery voltage step-down feature (on all levels), as it means you will never get stuck with no light without warning. Regulation patterns are excellent, in my view. Keep in mind however than only 1x18650 is supported, as before.

The switch feel and user interface is basically unchanged from the SC600-II – and will seem very familiar to Zebralight owners. 

Due to the smaller head, the beam pattern of the SC62 is basically identical to the SC52 (except with more output, of course). The SC600-II was never a great thrower, so this may be a trade-off many are willing to make for the considerably smaller size. 

In that sense, I think the SC62 fits into quite a "sweet spot" - you get a very small form factor light (i.e., not much bigger than some 1xAA lights), with outstanding output, range of levels, and excellent storage capacity (thanks to newer 18650 batteries). And the PID thermal regulation ensures you don't have to worry about over-heating (or artificially set step-down timings). The SC62 and its H600/H602 headlamp equivalents are definitely a strong contenders in the 1x18650 space. Hopefully you will find the detailed comparisons above useful in comparing lights. :wave:

----

SC62 provided by Zebralight for review.


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## Ryp (Nov 19, 2014)

Thanks for the review!


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## ColdZero (Nov 19, 2014)

Awesome review as always, Many thanks.


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## KITROBASKIN (Nov 19, 2014)

Fantastic information: intriguing runtime graphs

mtnelectronics.com protected Panasonic BD (?) and B(?) are a little too wide a diameter but everything else I have works fine.

After having experimented with Oveready hosts and direct drive and multi mode dropins, I have found that hand 'cooling' is more effective than using just the air. It would be interesting to see what results you would get. 

As far as the mass of the lights regarding handling heat: While the lighter weight torches heat up faster, I have found, and it makes some sense to me, that they also cool down quicker when turned off, whether I hold them at the head or not. Heat fins seem to actually slow down the thermal transfer to a hand compared with, say, an Oveready Smoothie Bezel.

The initial higher output of the heavier ZebraLight is not that great compared to the longer runtime and quicker cooling of the wonderful SC62.


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## Bad_JuJu (Nov 19, 2014)

Thanks for the review!


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## selfbuilt (Nov 19, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> mtnelectronics.com protected Panasonic BD (?) and B(?) are a little too wide a diameter but everything else I have works fine.


All my protected NCR18650A and NCR18650B fit fine - although I do have one brand with a extra dealer label that doesn't want to fit (unless you remove the dealer label). My SC62 is identical to my SC600-II in that regard (i.e., internal body diameter).



> After having experimented with Oveready hosts and direct drive and multi mode dropins, I have found that hand 'cooling' is more effective than using just the air. It would be interesting to see what results you would get.


It's been awhile, but I have experimented with this using both a surface-mounted thermal probe and an infrared thermal temperature gun. In my testing of highly-driven lights, fan cooling cools a light further and faster than hand cooling does. Of course, that is just from surface measures. And it may be different at lower drive levels. And a slower fan may not work as well, etc, etc. But based on my earlier tests, I suspect a hand-held SC62 run would have looked intermediate to the no cooling and fan cooling runs shown in the review. If I get a chance to try it later I will (but that's a lot of time sitting on my floor, LOL). 
_*UPDATE:* See the main thread or post #12 for the results of this test._

And I agree, the runtime graphs are interesting - especially where they show off the PID with/without cooling. This is interesting if you compare to the 3100mAh runs in my earlier SC600-II review (which uses the same PID algorithm).











Relative output scale is common, so you can see the difference in output the extra mass of the SC600-II head is making (with and without fan cooling).


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## Capolini (Nov 19, 2014)

Thanks for the review. I got this light about a month ago and like it a lot. It is becoming my favorite EDC light!

p.s. I think "Ryp" and you[Sb] have some connections,the Canadian Connection[!] ,,in that he is almost always the first post!!


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## Capolini (Nov 19, 2014)

This is in regards to using ones hand as a heat sink. This test was done w/ this light by *GeoBruin*

*EDIT: *I was curious so I went back and re-did the test using my hand as a heat sink. I kept my hand wrapped tightly about the light, switching hands roughly every minute (it got quite hot to hold in one hand) and I was able to maintain ~ 90% output all the way to 5 minutes where I ended the first test. It seems like in real world use, you wouldn't be completely wrapping your hand around the light and holding tightly but surely you would benefit from the effect somewhat just by casually holding it in your hand. My guess is somewhere in between 60% and 90%... 75%?

*MY EDIT:THE ENTIRE TEST W/ GRAPHS WAS DONE ON THE THREAD BELOW. POST # 101*

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?388977-SC62w-First-Impressions/page4


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## markr6 (Nov 19, 2014)

Enjoyed review! The SC62w was the light that really slammed the brakes on purchases for me. It's really the only light I use anymore, excluding headlamps and my S200C2 for throw.

I would disagree about the anodizing color though. I would call the lighter olive color the "classic" since that was pretty consistent for the first couple years. The dark gray started showing up within the last year or so. But it always varies, so I'm not saying there's a definite answer.


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## selfbuilt (Nov 19, 2014)

markr6 said:


> I would disagree about the anodizing color though. I would call the lighter olive color the "classic" since that was pretty consistent for the first couple years. The dark gray started showing up within the last year or so. But it always varies, so I'm not saying there's a definite answer.


You are right, the original Zebralights were of a lighter olive color (as shown in my review of their inaugural H50 model). I just preferred it when they went to the darker gray, and didn't like seeing the resurgence of the lighter color on some models in recent years.


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## Charles L. (Nov 19, 2014)

Love this light. Mine is the d model, and I find its tint very nice for my tastes. Of course the d version doesn't have the output of the ones with the XM-L2 emitter, but I still prefer to carry this light over my SC600-II L2 models (and all of my other EDC lights, for that matter).

Love the H600 as well.


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## selfbuilt (Nov 19, 2014)

Ok, this should address the effect of hand-holding vs fan cooling on the PID-controlled output:






I held the light on max with thumb just below switch, index finger behind the head, and hand wrapped around body. I found the SC62 too hot to hold for more than ~3-4 mins without switching hands (thumb and index finger too hot). After doing this several times, I let the light sit with no cooling for a few mins, followed by several mins of fan cooling. I then again held it for a few mins, let go with no cooling, and finally turned the fan back on.

As you can see above, hand-holding results in clearly intermediate output compared to fan cooling or no cooling. :wave:

As an aside, I am quite impressed by the rapid responsiveness of the PID thermal regulation system. It responds almost instantly to any change in the surroundings.


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## Taz80 (Nov 19, 2014)

Thank you for this review. I agree this light hits a sweet spot, between size, output and U.I. that other manufacturers will have a tough time matching.


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## KITROBASKIN (Nov 19, 2014)

I think it has been almost a year since I sent you some money for your battery fund. I should do it again, and send more. What an interesting result. The PID seems to be the real deal. This also reminds me of your review of a compact flashlight where you had a small number of them and the different lumen levels you got on moonlight mode. That was a fascinating review as well.

Mtnelectronics.com sells high drain, Panasonic NCR18650B and BD made by evva-tech.com that are too tight to fit in my SC62d's, even with the label removed.

With my experiments using Oveready hosts, I used my entire index finger to encircle the head, right next to the bezel ring, with the base of the thumb in contact as well, and the rest of the fingers closed around the flashlight. The smoothie bezel allowed more contact with the body, and the cool night air kept my hands quite cool. I did have to turn the light off when it started to get too hot to hold but still held the light. The 168 gram Z2 and smoothie bezel(with battery) heated up faster yet cooled faster than the 198 gram old U2 body (and adapter) with a Z32 Cryos cooling bezel. Both had simultaneously purchased Kinoko batteries and dedomed, direct drive XML2 dropins.

Your results speak for themselves and look completely valid. Thank You for taking the time to show us. Your careful, precise wording is a breath of fresh air.



selfbuilt said:


> Ok, this should address the effect of hand-holding vs fan cooling on the PID-controlled output:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## selfbuilt (Nov 19, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> I think it has been almost a year since I sent you some money for your battery fund. I should do it again, and send more. What an interesting result. The PID seems to be the real deal. This also reminds me of your review of a compact flashlight where you had a small number of them and the different lumen levels you got on moonlight mode. That was a fascinating review as well.


Thanks - donations are always appreciated. I've certainly been going through a lot of cells lately, with the new testing of different brands and types.

As for the reviews, it's always fun to do something different. The PID feature certainly allows for some more detailed investigation. The L3 illumination L10 review was the one where I had multiple samples of each version, which allowed for some statistical comparisons (which were also fun, when possible).


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## UnderPar (Nov 19, 2014)

Thanks SB for the review. This justifies the existence of SC62w in my collections. :thumbsup:


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## Tapis (Nov 19, 2014)

Thanks all, I enjoyed very much the review as well as the comments!

I got my SC62w and V11R at the same time, and am keeping both by my bedside at night. Both have a very low moonlight suitable for moonlight walk without disturbing the household, but I ended up using essentially the V11R after some accidental high activation on the SC62w. Being able to ramp up or down the light a tiny bit to suit best your night vision makes a big difference in this particular situation.


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## dave101 (Nov 20, 2014)

Thanks for the outstanding review as always Selfbuilt. You always amaze me with the thoroughness of your reviews. You set the standard.


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## selfbuilt (Nov 20, 2014)

Glad you are all enjoying the review. :grouphug: The SC62 has been a fun light to test.



Tapis said:


> I got my SC62w and V11R at the same time, and am keeping both by my bedside at night. Both have a very low moonlight suitable for moonlight walk without disturbing the household, but I ended up using essentially the V11R after some accidental high activation on the SC62w. Being able to ramp up or down the light a tiny bit to suit best your night vision makes a big difference in this particular situation.


Yes, the two lights are about the same size, although the SC62 packs a walloping lot more capacity, thanks to the charge density of 18650 (not to mention max output).

At the low output end, there are certainly a good number of options with the SC62 - but you are effectively limited to just one true sub-lumen Low mode for quick access (i.e., you need to select it in advance, and can't easily switch to the others). I agree the ring of V11R makes this more convenient for fine-tuning with dark-adapted eyes - and lowers the risk of accidentally hitting the max mode. I had that happen to me a few times with the SC52 when I carried around for a few weeks - I too went back to the V11R as an EDC for this reason. Of course, it can happen with any light if you are not paying attention ... but the Zebralight timings are not very forgiving in that regard.


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## KITROBASKIN (Nov 20, 2014)

I routinely use two sub lumen levels. It is very easy. With the beam pointed to the floor (to avoid flash), do a long click. If you want the other level, a quick double click does the job. I'll leave the two handed (or rather fiddly with one hand) flashlights for other people.


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## kj2 (Nov 23, 2014)

Thanks for the review


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## selfbuilt (Nov 24, 2014)

Glad you are enjoying it. 

FYI, I've been playing around today adding some new YouTube features to my videos - I've just added an opening intro animation, and a watermark (with a link to my channel, and a "subscribe" feature right on mouse-over menu). I've applied the watermark to all videos, but have left the intro just for this one video for the time being.



Let me know what you think of both of them. The watermark is useful for those who want to subscribe to my channel - that way, you will get an e-mail notification every time I post a new review here.


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## Gazagoguli (Nov 28, 2014)

Do you know anything about the tail clicks on zebralight spreadsheet page and when it well be released 


Sent from my iPad using Candlepowerforums


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## fnsooner (Nov 30, 2014)

Thanks for the review selfbuilt. They are always appreciated and trusted.


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## selfbuilt (Nov 30, 2014)

Gazagoguli said:


> Do you know anything about the tail clicks on zebralight spreadsheet page and when it well be released


No idea as to timelines for any Zebralight projects, sorry.



fnsooner said:


> Thanks for the review selfbuilt. They are always appreciated and trusted.


Thanks!


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## RIX TUX (Dec 8, 2014)

I like it..........where is the cheapest place to get one? 
p.s. great review


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## hatman (Dec 11, 2014)

Thanks -- another fine, useful review.

I ended up with two SC62Ws. The first came with the wrong size clip screws. While I was waiting for ZL to send replacement screws, I bought a second SC62W.

The light is that good -- I wouldn't want to be without one.

The tint is wonderful for dog-walking and the output is fantastic. This light quickly replaced my two, new and much more expensive lights from HDS (a clicky and a rotary.)

The downside: The SC62s get hot. And they eat batteries. I use ZL 18650 3400s. I'm not a heavy user but find that I must keep these batteries fully charged or risk having the light step down when I least expect it.

No, they won't entirely replace my early SC 600W. But that model and my two SC52Ws aren't getting much pocket time since the SC62Ws arrived.


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## UnderPar (Dec 11, 2014)

hatman said:


> Thanks -- another fine, useful review.
> 
> I ended up with two SC62Ws. The first came with the wrong size clip screws. While I was waiting for ZL to send replacement screws, I bought a second SC62W.
> 
> ...



Same here hatman. My SC600II L2 & SC52w L2 were always in my pockets before but was eventually replaced since my SC62w arrived.


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## Charles L. (Dec 11, 2014)

UnderPar said:


> Same here hatman. My SC600II L2 & SC52w L2 were always in my pockets before but was eventually replaced since my SC62w arrived.



Same here as well with my SC62d. Which neither gets too hot nor is it a battery eater, but then it isn't as bright as the XML-equipped SC62's.


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## Mr Floppy (Dec 11, 2014)

With less throw, does that mean a flooder beam? Ideally more spill light and a wider hotspot and PID, be perfect for a bike set up.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 12, 2014)

Mr Floppy said:


> With less throw, does that mean a flooder beam? Ideally more spill light and a wider hotspot and PID, be perfect for a bike set up.


Not exactly - it just means a less focused hotspot. The overall spillbeam width and relative intensity is pretty similar to the SC600-II L2 (as you can see in the beamshots). Personally, I agree that less throwy lights are best for bike riding, and think either of these should do pretty well.


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## radellaf (Dec 12, 2014)

Just wanted to throw this test result in here in case anyone is curious. I know 4.35V cells are not that popular, but I was curious how well the SC62w could use the energy in a battery with a very different discharge curve from the NCR18650B. I might test the other 4.35V 12Wh cell, the Samsung ICR-18650-32A in the future, but couldn't find a USA source for those.

SC62w runtime comparison of two 12Wh cells at 326lm setting (H2B)
Claimed runtime with protected NCR18650B: 3:54
Time lapse video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvktmGjbCIs

Panasonic NCR186560B 4.2V
500mA test capacity: 3125mAh to 2.9V (+54 mAh to 2.7V)

Full Brightness - 3:38
Dimmer 3:39-4:07 (0:28)
Full Brightness 4:08-4:56 (0:48)
Dimmer 4:57-6:48	(1:51)
Total Full Brightness time: 4:26
Total Dimmer time: 2:19

LG18650E1 (LGABE11865) 4.35V 
500mA test capacity: 2960mAh to 2.9V

Full Brightness - 4:49
Dimmer 4:50-5:44 (0:54)

Rough guess of total energy, if dimmer is half the power of full then
Panasonic: 4:26 + .5(2:19) = 5:35
LG: 4:49 + .5(0:54) = 5:16
which I’d call equal for this approximation.

The LG does give you an additional 23 minutes full brightness runtime,
or 1:11 if you stop at the first step-down.


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## SubLGT (Dec 13, 2014)

Radellaf, thanks for doing that test. I find it interesting that the 4.35V LG cell did not cause a problem in the SC62, because in the SC62 specifications, the operating voltage range is listed as 2.7V-4.2V.


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## radellaf (Dec 13, 2014)

I specifically asked ZL about that LG cell and they said the voltage was fine, but that they did not know how the battery might perform compared to the Panasonic.

I cared enough to ask, but didn't really expect +150mV to be a problem. The cells are rare enough I would expect it to be in a safe range, but nothing ZL would think to publish in a spec. Maybe if they get more common?

During use, of course, it would probably hold above 4.2 only in firefly modes. It cause me problems on the Bantam discharge test. I had to drain 50mAh with the 3 cell NiMH setting and then switch to LiPo otherwise it said "voltage high". Annoying they don't release a FW update for these cells, but now I have both a cottonpickers 4.35 and XTAR SP1 to handle charging. If I care to top off the last few 100mAhs, that is.


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## StandardBattery (Dec 13, 2014)

radellaf said:


> Just wanted to throw this test result in here in case anyone is curious. I know 4.35V cells are not that popular, but I was curious how well the SC62w could use the energy in a battery with a very different discharge curve from the NCR18650B. ....


:thumbsup:Thanks! This was a good test. It may be more 4.35V cells are appearing on the market.


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## toadintheroad (Dec 17, 2014)

I am not to picky about my lights as long as they are bright as hell. As i don,t have a lot of use for all of the technical data i am very low tech. a 30 year old revolver and my m1 garand seem to be what i always fall back to. i do however listen when the ef hutton of the flashlight review world talks. thus i have self edumacated on all these terms and must say another fine review sir. got mine ordered.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 17, 2014)

toadintheroad said:


> I am not to picky about my lights as long as they are bright as hell.


The SC62 certainly falls into that category, for the size of the light. :laughing:

And :welcome:


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## bright star (Dec 17, 2014)

Awesome review! Looks like a lot of light for the money


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## 18650 (Dec 21, 2014)

I'm waiting for the MT-G2 version of this one! lol


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## Pookles (Dec 22, 2014)

After following CPF for quite a while I've finally stopped lurking and registered an account. First stop is a Selfbuilt review to say thanks for all your effort and your comprehensive reviews - they're an awesome source of information. All you flashaholics here saved me a lot of time deciding what lights to get - and cost me a ton of money by showing me all those fancy lights that are out there :laughing:

I' ll give an SC62 to my father as a gift for christmas this year. I own the SC600 MKII L2 and after reading this review I knew at once that the SC62 is the right choice for my dad. He always made fun of the "stubby" look and the large head of my SC600 but liked the enormous output and the interface. The SC62 will hit exactly the sweet spot being as tiny as it is with such an impressive output. I'm pretty certain that my dad will like it and carry it every day.
Thanks for reviewing it in such detail


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## selfbuilt (Dec 23, 2014)

Pookles said:


> After following CPF for quite a while I've finally stopped lurking and registered an account. ... Thanks for reviewing it in such detail


I'm glad you have found them useful. Sounds like a good choice for your dad, hope he enjoys it.

And :welcome:


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## Fatso35 (Jan 8, 2015)

Hey all,

Does anyone know how much throw the SC62 has?,i dont find it anywhere.

Greetings Fatso.


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## selfbuilt (Jan 8, 2015)

Fatso35 said:


> Does anyone know how much throw the SC62 has?,i dont find it anywhere.


:welcome:

Direct throw measures (done under ANSI FL-1 conditions, with a NIST-certified light meter) for all my reviews are presented in the large table just before the runtimes section. Here it is from this review:


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## markr6 (Jan 8, 2015)

^ Thanks for reposting that table! I always seem to look over that one. Sounds right to me. I'm always surprised when people say the SC600 and SC62 have about the same throw. It's a pretty big difference to my eyes.


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## selfbuilt (Jan 8, 2015)

markr6 said:


> ^ Thanks for reposting that table! I always seem to look over that one. Sounds right to me. I'm always surprised when people say the SC600 and SC62 have about the same throw. It's a pretty big difference to my eyes.


Yes, although the difference is not so noticeable indoors, or at at reasonably close distances outdoors. It's just when you want to move out to further distances that you notice how the SC62's hotspot drops off faster.


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## Mr. Tone (Jan 23, 2015)

I have a SC62 hi cri version on the way. Hopefully it satisfies my picky tint preferences as I have never used or seen this particular Luxeon emitter. I love my 4500K hi cri Nichia 219 lights. I will give my thoughts here once I get it in hand. I realize this review was of the cool white model but it seems like the best place to put info since their is not a seperate review for either the neutral white or hi cri models. Thanks for this nice review, it helped me make the purchase.


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (May 5, 2015)

The SC600 clip is moveable; the SC62 clip is not. It seems to me that the clip is instrumental in being able to EDC any ZL flashlight, to reduce accidental activation to negligible probability. But - I put the SC600 clip at a very specific angle compared with the button so as to minimize the accidental activation.

If non-SC600-Zebralights are EDC-able, how is this accomplished? With the pocket clip? Loose? Something else?


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (May 19, 2015)

Is it true that the SC62 has a less-recessed switch compared with the SC600?


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## markr6 (May 19, 2015)

ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> Is it true that the SC62 has a less-recessed switch compared with the SC600?



They are close. I would say the sides are "built up" a bit more on the SC600 - even all the way around. The SC62 is a bit shallower on two sides of the switch.


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## Leonidimus (May 25, 2015)

Is there any diffuser compatible with SC62? Maybe Fenix AOD-S will fit?
It could be a killer ultralight lantern for backpacking, especially in neutral white.


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## markr6 (May 29, 2015)

FYI...from another thread I previously started about running this on 2xCR123:

Well, the curiosity was just burning a hole in my brain. I HAD to try this.

I just took two CR123a cells out of my PD32UE and put them in my Zebralight SC62w. *IT WORKED!* I started on low (3.4lm mode). Then I cycled up to medium (30 or 65lm, I don't remember), then H1 930lm. I left it there for about 5 seconds; that's all the nerve I had.

I'm not saying this thing won't fry on the 6th second, or even after 5, 10, or 200 minutes, though.

This was purely done to satisfy my curiosity. I never plan on using CR123 cells in anything, other than the PD32UE which just sits in my car with almost NO use whatsoever.


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## recDNA (May 30, 2015)

How is the tint on the sc62w? Is it a lottery or consistently good?


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## gunga (May 31, 2015)

I think a bit of a lottery.


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## Lite_me (May 31, 2015)

gunga said:


> I think a bit of a lottery.



Without going back and looking up all the posts, I can't remember anyone saying they got a bad tint on the w. I know mine is excellent. It's identical to my SC32w. And everyone is loving their SC32w's tint too. It appears both lights are getting the LEDs from the same batch.


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## gunga (May 31, 2015)

I'm referring to sc62.


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## recDNA (May 31, 2015)

Thanks. Do they publicize the color temp?


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## KITROBASKIN (May 31, 2015)

https://spreadsheets.google.com/spr...Fc0FfUDFVSHVNS1E&hl=en&authkey=CNqP6KIC#gid=0

ZebraLight Spreadsheet might be easier to access by going to zebralight.com then clicking on the red box on the left column, that reads 'Compare All Models'

4400K for the SC62w and 6300K for the SC62


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## recDNA (May 31, 2015)

Thanks!


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## Lite_me (May 31, 2015)

gunga said:


> I'm referring to sc62.



I thought his question was about the SC62w?


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## gunga (May 31, 2015)

I meant sc62w sorry. The thread on it stated some variance in tint.


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## markr6 (Jun 1, 2015)

recDNA said:


> How is the tint on the sc62w? Is it a lottery or consistently good?



I've had 3 SC62w now. Tint was all over the place! The one I currently use is pretty good, but not great like my SC52w or SC600w. Of couse, model numbers mean NOTHING. NOTHING at all. It's purely a lottery.

Time doesn't even matter. I know we like to think "I'll wait until the second batch comes for ZL to fix the tint issue." It's been YEARS and my H51w still has one of the nicest tints. So does my SC52w which is fairly new. As far as ZL is concerned, there is no "tint issue". They sell, <1% of the customers complain. Life is good.


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## snowlover91 (Jun 1, 2015)

Tint on all 3 Zebralights I've purchased this year has been good with the SC5w being the best of them and even better than a Nichia 219 IMO. My SC62w is great as well!


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## recDNA (Jun 1, 2015)

I may wait until the 63 comes out to see if the 62 is sold at clearance prices.


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## markr6 (Jun 1, 2015)

snowlover91 said:


> Tint on all 3 Zebralights I've purchased this year has been good with the SC5w being the best of them and even better than a Nichia 219 IMO. My SC62w is great as well!



Mine have all been horrible  The SC5 would have been nice, but the purple center dot thing ruined it.


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## recDNA (Jun 4, 2015)

Anyone know a dealer discounting the sc62w?


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## peartree_423 (Jun 4, 2015)

Hey guys what do you think of Zebralight's durability? I want a light that will stand up pretty well to falls from a few feet (like, out of my pocket or something) cause I am planning on possibly using the H32 as my EDC. I am trying to decide if i should go with an Armytek light or a Zebralight light. I like Zebralight's UI, output levels, and runtimes more than Armytek's, but I believe that Armytek has much better durability and warranty. I would rather go with the Zebralight, but I want to make sure it at least has respectable durability. Any thoughts?


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## KITROBASKIN (Jun 4, 2015)

ArmyTek or ZebraLight; the light may fail. Just because the first one looks and feels more durable, if you prefer the user interface of the other... And 10 year warranty claims could be little more than words; kind of like 'Canadian manufacturer'.
ZL has certainly had problems but I've read about their reasonable warranty and $15 repair policy. I say get either one that strikes your fancy, or join the Parade of Lumenadors here, and buy both.


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## snurblet (Jun 10, 2015)

Thanks for the review. I was thinking of trying the SC62 because my recent SC62w is decent on H1, but becomes overly yellow on other modes (the ones I'd use the most). From your beamshots, it looks like the 62 is on par with the PD35, which is the cool I'm trying to move away from.



markr6 said:


> Of course, model numbers mean NOTHING. NOTHING at all. It's purely a lottery.



So I'm gathering from reading the forums. Maybe I could get lucky and end up with an overly warm SC62. 

Life was simpler when all I wanted to do was find things in the dark.


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## snowlover91 (Jun 11, 2015)

peartree_423 said:


> Hey guys what do you think of Zebralight's durability? I want a light that will stand up pretty well to falls from a few feet (like, out of my pocket or something) cause I am planning on possibly using the H32 as my EDC. I am trying to decide if i should go with an Armytek light or a Zebralight light. I like Zebralight's UI, output levels, and runtimes more than Armytek's, but I believe that Armytek has much better durability and warranty. I would rather go with the Zebralight, but I want to make sure it at least has respectable durability. Any thoughts?



Their newest lights are potted now which in theory should provide extra durability. My dad just put the SC5w I gave him for an early Fathers Day present on his key ring. So far so good, he drops his keys and stuff a lot so it'll definitely get tested. Anodizing doesn't even have a scratch yet after almost 2 weeks on his keychain.


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## thburns (Jun 29, 2015)

Thank you for the great review! It's one of the ones that really convinced me to grab an SC62w, especially with how much I already love my SC52w.

This is my first Li-ion light, and I have it on the way alongside a Nitecore MH-20 so I ended up getting a Nitecore D2 charger bundle that came with two Nitecore NL-189 batteries. Someone mentioned in a thread I posted on another forum that the NL-189 batteries might not fit in the SC62w without stripping the label off (which I'm sure I won't be comfortable doing). In a panic and just to ensure I have the best starting experience, I just ordered a couple of ZebraLight 18650 batteries for the SC62w.

My question for all the SC62w owners out there is what batteries do you use in it? My also question, which I think I've already confirmed by seeing an answer in numerous other threads is, should I go get myself a multimeter right away since these are my first Li-ion lights?

Thanks again for the review!


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## override666666 (Jun 30, 2015)

thburns said:


> Thank you for the great review! It's one of the ones that really convinced me to grab an SC62w, especially with how much I already love my SC52w.
> 
> This is my first Li-ion light, and I have it on the way alongside a Nitecore MH-20 so I ended up getting a Nitecore D2 charger bundle that came with two Nitecore NL-189 batteries. Someone mentioned in a thread I posted on another forum that the NL-189 batteries might not fit in the SC62w without stripping the label off (which I'm sure I won't be comfortable doing). In a panic and just to ensure I have the best starting experience, I just ordered a couple of ZebraLight 18650 batteries for the SC62w.
> 
> ...








Im using keeppower 3200 mah, olight 3400 will fit but its a tad bit longer than the keeppower. Dont worry, new batches has bigger battery tube than the old one's. Pic above is sc600w mk2 l2 and sc62w, both with keeppwer 3200mah.


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## Tapis (Jun 30, 2015)

thburns said:


> My question for all the SC62w owners out there is what batteries do you use in it?



I am using EagleTac 3400mAh batteries (Review), they are great and fit well into the light. I bought a couple of KeepPower 3400mAh along with my SC62w, but they wouldn't fit.


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## easymac314 (Jun 30, 2015)

I use NCR18650B and they fit just fine.


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## markr6 (Jun 30, 2015)

easymac314 said:


> I use NCR18650B and they fit just fine.



That's a good choice. No need for protection, _especially _in this light. I don't use protected in any light anymore. Crushing springs annoys the hell out of me, even if it doesn't hurt anything.


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## thburns (Jun 30, 2015)

Interesting! Sounds like there's a wide array that people use. I've heard KeepPowers, EagleTacs, and NCR18650Bs now  I guess if the actual ZL batteries don't fit (or the Nitecore NL189s that I have), then I have a solid lineup of other options to try.


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## recDNA (Jul 2, 2015)

Do flat top protected AW fit and work or do I need button top? How about AW IMR 18650? Thanks.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 2, 2015)

recDNA said:


> Do flat top protected AW fit and work or do I need button top? How about AW IMR 18650? Thanks.


IMR cells should never be a fit issue in any light, as as they are shorter (due to the lack of protection circuitry), and typically thinner too. My AW protected 3100mAh (flat-tops) fit comfortably and work well in my PD62.


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## recDNA (Jul 2, 2015)

Thanks. AW is the only brand I trust. Unprotected ICR scare the hell out of me but I've had quality brand protected battery vent once too so I guess it is a crap shoot.


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Jul 2, 2015)

recDNA said:


> Thanks. AW is the only brand I trust. Unprotected ICR scare the hell out of me but I've had quality brand protected battery vent once too so I guess it is a crap shoot.



Doesn't this light already have low-voltage protection built-in? What is using a protected battery getting you? The light isn't going to short the cell, or drive it harder than allowed, or run the voltage too low. Isn't that all that battery protection is giving you?

I suppose a protected battery also gives you protection from a charger that goes crazy, but I wouldn't leave lithium-ion chargers unattended whether charging protected or unprotected batteries.

So, can't you just use a regular flat-top unprotected Panasonic 18650? That's what AW uses as the cell, isn't it?


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## markr6 (Jul 2, 2015)

It's up to the user, but I am totally over protected cells. Period. Especially in Zebralights. I still like naked button tops because the slight increase in length plus the clear wrapper makes it a bit thicker so there is ZERO battery rattle, even when setting it down to tapping it against something. All without over-stressing the spring with the extra length of a protected cell. Perfect.


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## recDNA (Jul 9, 2015)

WalkIntoTheLight said:


> Doesn't this light already have low-voltage protection built-in? What is using a protected battery getting you? The light isn't going to short the cell, or drive it harder than allowed, or run the voltage too low. Isn't that all that battery protection is giving you?
> 
> I suppose a protected battery also gives you protection from a charger that goes crazy, but I wouldn't leave lithium-ion chargers unattended whether charging protected or unprotected batteries.
> 
> So, can't you just use a regular flat-top unprotected Panasonic 18650? That's what AW uses as the cell, isn't it?


It should also protect against short circuit or overheated battery in unattended light. I recently had a high quality (not AW) protected 18660 vent for no apparent reason in a solarforce flashlight with a 1.5 amp xpg2. I had been using the light. Shut it off. Put it down. And 10 minutes later pop whoosh. Even if I left it on at 1.5 amps it should never get hot enough to vent. I assume a short circuit but a protected cell should have been disabled before it vented. Fortunately no flame but it scared the heck out of me. I was going to switch to all imr batteries but read there is really no such thing any more - that all cells are hybrid chemistry regardless of what labels say.


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## awyeah (Jul 9, 2015)

> As with other heavily-driven lights, some 18650s may not be able to handle the sustained discharge rate on Max. I recommend you stick with high-quality cells.



What is the current draw on Max?


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## markr6 (Jul 9, 2015)

awyeah said:


> What is the current draw on Max?



Not much, I think something like 3.5A? I no longer have mine to check, but I tested it once and I think that sounds about right. Who can confirm?


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## WarRaven (Jul 9, 2015)

I'm pretty sure the XM L2 in my PD35s was/is said to pull 3.5 as well, sounds about right.
This why I tossed my pulled cells, didn't figure they'd handle that and heat by-product. I can't be held to just being high, I want Turbo!🔦


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## awyeah (Jul 9, 2015)

3.5A? Would a typical protected ICR handle that? I have all EagleTac 3100mAh batteries.


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Jul 10, 2015)

recDNA said:


> I was going to switch to all imr batteries but read there is really no such thing any more - that all cells are hybrid chemistry regardless of what labels say.



Really? But the name-brand IMR batteries seem to max out at about 2600mAh, compared to about 3400mAh for the ICR. And the IMR not not protected. They can't be the same as the ICR...??

Are you referring to Ultrafire or something like that, where you have no idea what you get inside?


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## thedoc007 (Jul 10, 2015)

awyeah said:


> 3.5A? Would a typical protected ICR handle that? I have all EagleTac 3100mAh batteries.



Yes. 3.5 amps is quite reasonable for almost any quality 18650. Your Eagletacs will work just fine.


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## recDNA (Jul 10, 2015)

WalkIntoTheLight said:


> Really? But the name-brand IMR batteries seem to max out at about 2600mAh, compared to about 3400mAh for the ICR. And the IMR not not protected. They can't be the same as the ICR...??
> 
> Are you referring to Ultrafire or something like that, where you have no idea what you get inside?


If it vents imr does not flame and gas not as toxic. I have had protected cells vent


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## BadBulb4U (Jul 18, 2015)

Thanks for another great review. I know it has been awhile since you made the review, but I am only now interested in getting the smallest quality light that uses one 18650. I am going to order a Zebralight SC62 today so it arrives in time for my birthday. You are truely a great help to our community with your reviews. :thumbsup:


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## selfbuilt (Jul 18, 2015)

BadBulb4U said:


> Thanks for another great review. I know it has been awhile since you made the review, but I am only now interested in getting the smallest quality light that uses one 18650. I am going to order a Zebralight SC62 today so it arrives in time for my birthday. You are truely a great help to our community with your reviews. :thumbsup:


Thanks, glad you found the review useful! :wave:


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## thanos.k (Sep 27, 2015)

Thank you very much for your time and knowledge. I have read a lot of reviews and stuff for led flash lights and i make my decision to buy from nkon a zebralight sc62w.
Greetings from Greece.


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## UnderPar (Sep 27, 2015)

thanos.k said:


> Thank you very much for your time and knowledge. I have read a lot of reviews and stuff for led flash lights and i make my decision to buy from nkon a zebralight sc62w.
> Greetings from Greece.



Excellent decision. You'll never go wrong with this light. I had this from the time it was released past year and its part of my EDC. For sure you'll like like. 

Btw, :welcome:


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## selfbuilt (Oct 3, 2015)

thanos.k said:


> Thank you very much for your time and knowledge. I have read a lot of reviews and stuff for led flash lights and i make my decision to buy from nkon a zebralight sc62w..


:welcome:


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## recDNA (Oct 4, 2015)

In the PID output vs time graphs I do not understand vertical axis. What is 260 as percent of output? Is there a way for me to convert vertical axis into either amps or lumens?

Did I miss runtime for lower level beacon mode?


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## selfbuilt (Oct 5, 2015)

recDNA said:


> In the PID output vs time graphs I do not understand vertical axis. What is 260 as percent of output? Is there a way for me to convert vertical axis into either amps or lumens?


That is my standard relative output scale, for the raw numbers coming out of the lightbox. To convert to estimated lumens, you can do the conversion described in this thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...convert-Selfbuilt-s-Lightbox-values-to-Lumens



> Did I miss runtime for lower level beacon mode?


I didn't see any specs from Zebralight when I published the review (and needless to say, I won't be performing these).


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## recDNA (Oct 5, 2015)

Why not? It's not like you have a life to live and 100 more flashlights to review! LOL 

Thanks very much for your spectacular work.


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (Jan 12, 2016)

I asked this elsewhere, but I'm curious if an undocumented feature of the SC62 is ability to run on 2xCR123a primary cells (in medium and low only), in a pinch, like a power outage.

I already know that some ZL lights are rated at up to 6V, and the SC62 is not one of them (though the SC63 is).


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## recDNA (Jan 12, 2016)

That would be nice but I doubt it. I wish they built it into the driver allowing h2 as max output (preventing accidental H1 activation) That draws less than 1 amp.


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## markr6 (Jan 12, 2016)

I ran my SC62w with 2xCR123 for a few minutes without any problems. But I wouldn't risk it in real use.


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (Jan 13, 2016)

markr6 said:


> I ran my SC62w with 2xCR123 for a few minutes without any problems. But I wouldn't risk it in real use.



On which level?


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## markr6 (Jan 13, 2016)

ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> On which level?



I honestly don't remember...I know it wasn't a low level. Either M1 or H2 (326lm which I always have set)


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## tops2 (Jan 13, 2016)

hatman said:


> The downside: The SC62s get hot. And they eat batteries. I use ZL 18650 3400s. I'm not a heavy user but find that I must keep these batteries fully charged or risk having the light step down when I least expect it.



I saw this comment from a while back about needing to keep the batteries fully charged or have the light step down when least expected.

Does anyone else notice else notice the light stepping down on a slightly less than full charge? I'm considering this or the updated SC63 (but leaning towards the SC62w just so I can use my existing 18650 cells).


I usually use my SC5w on H2.2 (187lm) or M1 (45lm) level and even when I run the Eneloop down to 2 flashes with the battery check feature, I haven't experienced the light step down.

Before buying the SC5w, I played with an SC52 at Illumn, and the light kept stepping down, but when the guys there checked their Eneloop, said it was fully charged. I ended up not getting the SC52 cause of my limited hands on time with it but it kept stepping down.


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## snugpie (Jan 13, 2016)

Awesome review! I may just have to get this to compliment my Zebralight headlamp.


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (Jan 29, 2016)

Anybody else carry in the pocket w/o clip and get an accidental activation?


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## D6859 (Sep 25, 2016)

Thank you again selfbuilt! Your review helped me once again with the decision wether to buy or not to buy. 

I bid 37 € for SC62w today in a Finnish eBay equivalent (huuto.net). It so happened that the seller lives in the same city as I live. Within 1 hour after the bidding was closed he brought the flashlight for me and I paid him 40 eur in cash. I think it was a good deal 

This is my first Zebralight. I need some time to adjust to the new UI, especially to that one click turns the HI mode on and long presses start the mode cycle from LO. The tint is cooler than I expected. Otherwise the light seem really nice. And I always thought my Convoy S2+ was a small light...


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## StandardBattery (Sep 25, 2016)

D6859 said:


> Thank you again selfbuilt! Your review helped me once again with the decision wether to buy or not to buy.
> 
> I bid 37 € for SC62w today in a Finnish eBay equivalent (huuto.net). It so happened that the seller lives in the same city as I live. Within 1 hour after the bidding was closed he brought the flashlight for me and I paid him 40 eur in cash. I think it was a good deal
> 
> This is my first Zebralight. I need some time to adjust to the new UI, especially to that one click turns the HI mode on and long presses start the mode cycle from LO. The tint is cooler than I expected. Otherwise the light seem really nice. And I always thought my Convoy S2+ was a small light...


Hope you like it. You can set H2 as the default and then 1-click will turn on H2 rather than H1 which I find much better and saves battery. if you really want H1 1-click then wait ~1/2 second and double click. If you double click too soon you'll end up with triple click and strobe.
Give it a little time, I think you will find the Ui great.


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## D6859 (Sep 25, 2016)

StandardBattery said:


> You can set H2 as the default and then 1-click will turn on H2 rather than H1 which I find much better and saves battery.



How do you do that? I couldn't find it in the manual.
*
Edit: *Nwm, I was a bit tired and thought M2 instead of H2. Indeed, I just set High mode to H2 and next time I turn on the light with single click it'll be H2. I think I'll program it to 160 lm. That should suffice most of the time


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## bladesmith3 (Oct 6, 2016)

I have not found a side button light that I can carry daily in my pocket that does not activate accidentally. they have to be locked out which is more bother then it is worth for the multiple times a day I use lights. 
there may be lights that work but I haven't found them.





ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> Anybody else carry in the pocket w/o clip and get an accidental activation?


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## StandardBattery (Oct 6, 2016)

bladesmith3 said:


> I have not found a side button light that I can carry daily in my pocket that does not activate accidentally. they have to be locked out which is more bother then it is worth for the multiple times a day I use lights.
> there may be lights that work but I haven't found them.


I presume you are including the Zebralights in that? I've not had any accidental activation with recent Zebralights for a few years now since they redesigned the switch and switch well. I carry it everyday clipped in my pocket often with lots of other stuff. If you manage to get accidental activation on recent Zebralights I think you definitely have to go for a twisty, I'm not a big fan of lockout either, but I did it on some earlier zebra lights from time to time depending on my pocket, they require something like only a 1/32 or 1/64 of the tailcap turn to lockout. I think that was on the SC60 I found I had to use lockout sometimes. maybe if you don't use the clip there is a bigger chance of activation.


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (Oct 6, 2016)

Yes, no clip -> accidental activation (_very_ occasional)


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## bladesmith3 (Oct 6, 2016)

I think my comment might sound overly negative. i didn't mean to. I love zebralights and the sc62 is a wonderful light, but my sc62 has activated in my pocket. I carry lots of junk in my pockets including keys. twice while sitting in my car I could feel the warmth. yes the new deep wells around the button helped a lot. but in my case I live with a twisty. there are several side switch lights that I love but don't carry in my pocket. I also tried a belt pouch but that was just a Band-Aid fix. lockout works if you don't use the light 10X a day. just my 2 cents.


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