# Review of Olight i3 EOS with measurements and outdoor beamshots



## HKJ (Sep 18, 2011)

[size=+3]OLight i3 EOS[/size]












OLight is manufacturing many different flashlight and does also own another flashlight manufacturers called ITP. Olight has decided to move the ITP lights to the Olight brand. The ITP A3 EOS Upgrade light (That has also been sold as the Olight mini AAA) has been redesigned and is now called i3 EOS. In this review I am taking a closer look on the i3. The light has 3 brightness settings: tighten the head to turn the light on in low, loosing and tigthen the head will move to medium, then high. The light is made of aluminum with hard-anodized (Type 3) finish.









The light is delivered in a sealed clamshell package. 






The package contains the light, a alkaline battery, two o-rings, hex key and the manaul.












The light has a OP (*O*range *P*eel) reflector with the XP-G led at the bottom.









The head has some groves to improve the grip when turing on/off and selecting level. The backside of the head is the classical design with a ring and a center, the excact same design and circuit board was used on the A3 and on a couple of other AAA lights.









The body has well working threads and a o-ring, the battery tube has the usual spring at the bottom.






The body has the same type groves as the head.






The light has a removable clip that can be removed with the supplied hex key.






The light without clip, the holes for the screws does not have any connection to the battery tube.









The flat tail means that the light can tailstand. On the A3 there was a post for a split ring on the tail, here it is moved to the side of the light, but it is not a very practical solution. The split ring will always stand out to the side. 






Here is all the part the light can be disassembled in without tools.






The light exist in black and four colors. According the the package there is also supposed to be a natural.

The upgrade of the A3 has some good points and some bad points. On the plus side is the clip, I do expect the new design to be stronger than the old clip. But as a keychain light it is not an upgrade, the eye for the split ring is probably stronger, but I want the split ring behind the light, not sticking out the side of the light. Maximum brightness is less than expected, it probably has something to do with controlling the temperature of the light.
A good light, but a sligt design change to the tail is needed to make it as versatile as the old A3. 



[size=+3]Technical specification and measurements[/size]






This light is designed for 1.5 volt AAA batteries (Alkaline, NiMH, Lithium). 

Measured size and weight:
Length: 71.2 mm
Diameter: 12.5 mm to 14 mm
Weight: 25.2 gram with eneloop

The light uses a Cree XP-G R5 led.






In the above table I have collected all modes, measured at 1.2 volt. All the estimated runtimes are with 800 mAh eneloop batteries. The estimated lumen is scale from the specified maximum. The brightness is a relative measurement from a lux meter. 






The light does not stabilize brightness, instead the brightness is directly proportional to the battery voltage. This keeps a more moderate current draw on the batteries and with alkaline avoids the fast brightness drop when the battery is empty.






Brightness on medium is also proportional to battery voltage.






When the low brightness is selected the light is stabilized.






On the runtime curve the lack of stabilization is obvious on high, but not very visible on medium. These small AAA lights do not work well on high with alkaline.






I did a temperature test to see how well the light handles the heat from the led. The above curve was done at 1.7 volt, lower voltages looks the same but the final temperatur will be a few degrees coolor. When power is turned on the temperature rises fast, but only for a short time, then the current drops and the temperature stabilizes.
Note: My test does not simulate actual usage conditions, but are done on a test bench with only the head of the light and no cooling airflow, i.e. the light will get hotter than during normal use. 







The light uses pwm for regulation of brightness, the frequency is about 2.4 kHz, i.e. not visible. When the boost regulator is turned on for each pulse, it starts with a spike and then stabilizes at a lower level.






On low the pwm is just the spike from turnon.






On high the boost regulator has a steady output on the the "regulated" level.






A closer look on the noise shows the actual boost regulator frequency, in this case it is about 190 kHz.



[size=+3]Comparison to other Flashlights[/size]

Olight i3, ITP A3 EOS Upgrade, Illuminati Ti: 











Illuminati Al, Fenix LD01, 4Sevens Preon ReVO: 











For the full comparison to other lights with graphs and beamshots see here.




[size=+3]Notes[/size]

The black light was supplied by 4Sevens for review, I have later bought the other.


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## JacobJones (Sep 18, 2011)

Very good review, now I know not to get one to replace my ITP A3. It looks really long next to the ITP A3 EOS


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## LG&M (Sep 18, 2011)

Thanks, Great pictures. I like my i3 but it has started to flicker on medium. It is fine on low & high. Do you know what might cause this? I hope it just needs a cleaning & I don't have to send it back.


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## mzil (Sep 20, 2011)

Is the Olight i3 brightness turn on sequence M>L>H or L>M>H?

I take it the belt clip can't be flipped around to be clipped to a sun visor or hat brim, correct? [I like how the Maratac AAA does that.]

If the belt clip is removed on the i3 do the screws have to be reinserted, or you've left two holes where water and dirt can get in?

Thanks in advance.


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## HKJ (Sep 20, 2011)

mzil said:


> Is the Olight i3 brightness turn on sequence M>L>H or L>M>H?



It is l-m-h as I state in the first paragraph and in the beamshot comparison



mzil said:


> I take it the belt clip can't be flipped around to be clipped to a sun visor or hat brim, correct? [I like how the Maratac AAA does that.]



No, there are only holes at the back.




mzil said:


> If the belt clip is removed on the i3 do the screws have to be reinserted, or you've left two holes where water and dirt can get in?



I do believe that the holes are closed at the back, but I did not check it.
If you look at the length of the light, compared to the A3, it looks like the part with the hole for the split ring and where the clip is mounted is behind the battery compartment and probably massive aluminium.


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## sveqs (Sep 21, 2011)

nice review, thank you!
I have no hands-on experience with the ITP version's pocket clip, in what ways is that inferior to the Olight's clip?
Also, I infer from your photos that the ITP has more of a throw, while the Olight has a broader spill - is that correct?

thank you, 
-Greg


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## HKJ (Sep 21, 2011)

sveqs said:


> I have no hands-on experience with the ITP version's pocket clip, in what ways is that inferior to the Olight's clip?



On the ITP the clips is just clips on, this makes the light sit higher in the pocket and is not as strong..



sveqs said:


> Also, I infer from your photos that the ITP has more of a throw, while the Olight has a broader spill - is that correct?


 
Yes, this is due to the different leds XP-E / XP-G, the smaller XP-E gives more throw.


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## sveqs (Sep 21, 2011)

HKJ said:


> On the ITP the clips is just clips on, this makes the light sit higher in the pocket and is not as strong..
> 
> Yes, this is due to the different leds XP-E / XP-G, the smaller XP-E gives more throw.


 
thanks a lot, so it is a win some, lose some situation... 
(and apologies for the silly questions, I am just entering the realm of flashlights...  )


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## mzil (Sep 21, 2011)

Sveqs, I'm not sure if you'd care, but I thought to point out that the Maratac AAA version of the iTP (said to be a clone to the iTP A3 except for some minor cosmetics) uniquely can reverse its clip, allowing for mounting it to a hat brim or visor (yet shoot forward), to act as an impromptu head lamp, keeping both of your hands free to attend to other tasks. 

I bought an iTP A3 upgrade after having owned a Maratac AAA for a year, not knowing this, and was disappointed to discover this upon its arrival to my door. Had this been pointed out to me prior, I probably wouldn't have bought it.

Just a heads up.


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## sveqs (Sep 21, 2011)

mzil said:


> Sveqs, I'm not sure if you'd care, but I thought to point out that the Maratac AAA version (said to be a clone to the iTP A3 except for some minor cosmetics) uniquely can reverse its clip, allowing for mounting it to a hat brim or visor to act as an impromptu head lamp, keeping both of your hands free to attend to other tasks.
> 
> I bought an iTP A3 upgrade after having owned a Maratac AAA for a year, not knowing this, and was disappointed to discover this upon its arrival to my door. Had this been pointed out to me prior, I probably wouldn't have bought it.
> 
> Just a heads up.



Hello Mzil!

Thanks for that additional info, I almost forgot about the third member of the triplets  I read an extensive comparison of those two here a while back
The more details, the more difficult it becomes to decide :sigh:
Factor in shipping costs to / availability in Europe, and the issue takes yet a new twist


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## JacobJones (Sep 22, 2011)

mzil said:


> Sveqs, I'm not sure if you'd care, but I thought to point out that the Maratac AAA version of the iTP (said to be a clone to the iTP A3 except for some minor cosmetics) uniquely can reverse its clip, allowing for mounting it to a hat brim or visor (yet shoot forward), to act as an impromptu head lamp, keeping both of your hands free to attend to other tasks.
> 
> I bought an iTP A3 upgrade after having owned a Maratac AAA for a year, not knowing this, and was disappointed to discover this upon its arrival to my door. Had this been pointed out to me prior, I probably wouldn't have bought it.
> 
> Just a heads up.


 
Pocket clip on the ITP A3 is reversable, at a glance the body looks too thick for the clip to be reversed but you can


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## mzil (Sep 22, 2011)

I own both and can attest that the "area" for reverse attachment on the iTP, thicker than the correct area as you say, unlike the designated area for proper belt use attachment, has no valley walls to prevent the clip from freely sliding up and down the length of the body. The Maratac, on the otherhand, has two designated valleys for the clip to nestle in to, belt carry _or_ visor clip, which prevents sliding at _both_ locations. Also since the visor clip "area" is thicker on the iTP, the same width as the main cylinder of the flashlight body in fact, it worries me about scratching the black coating off due to the extra strain on the clip to open its width to accept the fatter body width. [Although I have just tried it and it does fit, true. No coating loss yet but I wouldn't bank on that to be true longterm with such use or the clip staying tight since it gets stretched open more to fit at this location.]


Granted the light is so lightweight it is unlikely the weight alone will cause it to slide out of place on its own without an intentionally applied force by the user, that's true, however I still prefer how _only_ the Maratac is specifically designed to preclude this with its two _designated_ areas.

[HKJ has a good close up photo making the two vs one area clip attachment location difference easy to see  here, for those of you who might not own both.]


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## Powertac (Sep 27, 2011)

LG&M said:


> Thanks, Great pictures. I like my i3 but it has started to flicker on medium. It is fine on low & high. Do you know what might cause this? I hope it just needs a cleaning & I don't have to send it back.


 

YOU STILL MIGHT HAVE TO SEND IT BACK TO MAKE SURE THATS THE PROBLEM...IF ITS NOT THE PROBLEM AND THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT THEY WILL SHIP YOU A NEW ONE IF IT CANT BE FIXED... WOULD YOU LIKE TO HAVE A CONTACT EMAIL. ?


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## LG&M (Sep 27, 2011)

Powertac said:


> YOU STILL MIGHT HAVE TO SEND IT BACK TO MAKE SURE THATS THE PROBLEM...IF ITS NOT THE PROBLEM AND THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT THEY WILL SHIP YOU A NEW ONE IF IT CANT BE FIXED... WOULD YOU LIKE TO HAVE A CONTACT EMAIL. ?


 Thanks, I sent it back. The new light should be inbound now.


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## HKJ (Oct 17, 2011)

Added a few pictures to the review.


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## J_C (Jan 7, 2012)

mzil said:


> I own both and can attest that the "area" for reverse attachment on the iTP, thicker than the correct area as you say, unlike the designated area for proper belt use attachment, has no valley walls to prevent the clip from freely sliding up and down the length of the body. The Maratac, on the otherhand, has two designated valleys for the clip to nestle in to, belt carry _or_ visor clip, which prevents sliding at _both_ locations. Also since the visor clip "area" is thicker on the iTP, the same width as the main cylinder of the flashlight body in fact, it worries me about scratching the black coating off due to the extra strain on the clip to open its width to accept the fatter body width. [Although I have just tried it and it does fit, true. No coating loss yet but I wouldn't bank on that to be true longterm with such use or the clip staying tight since it gets stretched open more to fit at this location.]
> 
> 
> Granted the light is so lightweight it is unlikely the weight alone will cause it to slide out of place on its own without an intentionally applied force by the user, that's true, however I still prefer how _only_ the Maratac is specifically designed to preclude this with its two _designated_ areas.
> ...



This information is not entirely accurate. It does have "valley walls" to keep the clip from freely sliding on mine. The gnarling on the body tube is a larger diameter than the forward clip area. Not a "lot" larger but the only way the clip would slip past it is if the clip is loose because the owner bent it out of shape putting it on. 

Perhaps there have been some slight design changes? Mine is the v1 A3 w/XP-E. Even though mine does not slip, something I added for a different reason might help if someone's slips if they want the clip always (not truly permanent but not so easily switched back and forth out in the field) in the forward hat mount position. I cut to length a piece of heatshrink tubing which runs all the way from the inside edge of the large nub on the tail to the far edge of the clip area around the body tube. This not only makes the clip more secure, it also makes the light much more pleasant to hold in your mouth if the need arises. Tiny short lightweight lights like these are awesome for mouth use once you cover up the teeth grinding gnarling with something soft yet still grippy.

To get the tubing the right length, cut it 1 cm oversized in length then put slight forward pressure on it while heating it on the body tube so as the length shrinks some too you will have it aligned right around the clip area. Let the other end extend past the rear nub as it shrinks then let it cool and cut it to exact size with a razor blade.


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## mzil (Jan 8, 2012)

J_C said:


> This information is not entirely accurate. It does have "valley walls" to keep the clip from freely sliding on mine. The gnarling on the body tube is a larger diameter than the forward clip area. Not a "lot" larger but the only way the clip would slip past it is if the clip is loose because the owner bent it out of shape putting it on. .


So does yours _not_ look like this:


HKJ said:


>



Also by adding rubber heatshrink tubing (coating) to the exterior, I would fear it would act as an insulation jacket and interfere with the aluminum's natural ability to radiate heat. Maybe less so in the body than the head, but still. This may be a concern only to me though, since I use the potentially dangerous 10440 batteries in mine. [Not recomended and causes extreme heat on high mode...plus incredible brightness. I'm willing to run the risk since my use is for very brief periods of time, only, or I use med or low.]


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## mzil (Jan 8, 2012)

HKJ said:


> The light without clip, the holes for the screws does not have any connection to the battery tube.



Good, so no fear of dust or water entry if you leave the screws out. Next question, can you store the screws in those holes so you don't loose them and they'll go in deeper, ie flush to the body?


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## varmint (Jan 9, 2012)

I have an I3 and if I was not so partical to my Microstream it would be my EDC, I really like it as a using daily light.


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## Racer (Jan 24, 2012)

varmint said:


> I have an I3 and if I was not so partical to my Microstream it would be my EDC, I really like it as a using daily light.



Same here. It's a close call though. The Microstream barely beats out the I3 most of the time for me. But the I3 is a great light too. If I were trapped on a deserted island it would be between the I3 and E01 which light I'd want. But for just carrying it around the house and poking it into dark corners the MS has an edge.

I EDC'd the I3 for a couple months and it stood up well to abuse. My only issue with it is that the clip came loose and the hex wrench that came with it stripped the screws before I realized I did it. I ended up using a wrench from my toolbox and can now get them decently tight, but I'm worried the people I gave them to as gifts won't be so lucky. So I hope that bad wrench was a fluke because that's a major selling point of the light to me. If I give one to my aunt she can take the clip off if she doesn't want it.

And of course the I3 makes a nice little pocket rocket if you're into that sort of thing.


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## iron potato (Mar 16, 2012)

Thanks for the great review HKJ, after months of consideration, finally pulled the trigger today for a blue i3, and so read about the screws came loose, I think a little blue threadlock might help ? Maybe I'll replace the screws with Torx head stainless steel screw, salvage from faulty notebook hard disk drive :devil: I did the same to my Zebralights H51Fc & SC51w :thumbsup:


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## J_C (Mar 16, 2012)

mzil said:


> So does yours _not_ look like this:



Don't know why I didn't receive an email update when you posted, or I missed it. Yes, mine does look just like the one pictured first on the left except Ti not Al metal. On mine the body tube knurling is a larger diameter than the smooth portion closer to the head that the clip sits on, not a _lot_ larger but enough difference that the clip does not slide past it. When I took the clip off to remount at the top of the tube I bend the mount area to a slightly smaller diameter for more clip-on tension, possibly it makes a difference.




> Also by adding rubber heatshrink tubing (coating) to the exterior, I would fear it would act as an insulation jacket and interfere with the aluminum's natural ability to radiate heat. Maybe less so in the body than the head, but still. This may be a concern only to me though, since I use the potentially dangerous 10440 batteries in mine. [Not recomended and causes extreme heat on high mode...plus incredible brightness. I'm willing to run the risk since my use is for very brief periods of time, only, or I use med or low.]



You may be right, I would never use a 10440 (Li-Ion) cell either way, but with NiMH I find it no problem to run the light on med or hi with heatshrink tubing on the body tube though I have never let it run from a freshly charged cell all the way down. I've ran mine on high like that for about 20 minutes a few times, but always had it on medium if I needed longer runtime.


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## Sno4Life (Apr 16, 2012)

What is the color temperature of the xp-g in the i3?


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## bmel17 (Apr 10, 2013)

Thanks for the review. I bought one of these off ebay last week and it was delivered today. Excited for night to test it outside.


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## Chevy-SS (Apr 11, 2013)

Nice review. Thanks!

Do these lights come with any sort of key chain? I always liked that feature about the iTP EOS A3 lights, they had a good keychain......

Thanks again!


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## N_N_R (Apr 12, 2013)

Chevy-SS said:


> Nice review. Thanks!
> 
> Do these lights come with any sort of key chain? I always liked that feature about the iTP EOS A3 lights, they had a good keychain......
> 
> Thanks again!



Only a split ring. The new version, i3S, comes with a keychain : )


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