# BLF Manker A6 – Custom tube light designed by BLF – Cree XP-L in three tints, 1x18650



## KeepingItLight (Aug 17, 2015)

*Coupon Code Now Public (2015-Oct-17)*

The coupon code for the *BLF A6 Special Edition* is now public. You do not have to join the group buy to get the code. It is posted publicly at BLF. Using the code, you can purchase the BLF A6 at Banggood for $25 USD. Right below the code, you will find a link to the sales page at Banggood.


*Price Increased to $29.95 (2015-Nov-01)*

On November 1, 2015, the price of the BLF A6 was raised to $29.95 (with coupon code). 

The original price of $25 was negotiated on behalf of the 900+ BLF members who joined the group buy. After all of them received their flashlights, the seller allowed the coupon to be released to the public. It then sold perhaps another 1000 lights at the $25 price. 

Although it would be nice to see the lower price kept available forever, we knew it had to end eventually. 


*Original Post (2015-Aug-17)*

The members of Budget Light Forum have been on a roll lately. They have four different group buys going on right now for custom flashlights that have been modded or designed by BLF members. These are not just discounted prices for existing flashlights. These are custom flashlights.

The *BLF A6 Special Edition* is the one now in production. I ordered two at Banggood last week. If it lives up to its promise, $25 USD will get you a very nice tube light. 


Cree XP-L emitter 
Three tint choices: 1A, 3D, and 5A 
1x 18650 battery 
Turbo (steps down after 45 seconds): Estimated 1200-1400 lumens stock, depending on battery 
Up to 1600 lumens if modded with spring bypass and using a high-draw 30A battery 
Choose between two mode groups. First has 7 constant output levels. Second has 4 constant output levels. Both include additional, hidden strobe and blinky modes. 
Noctigon Copper mcpcb 
Driver designed by BLF member Wight 
UI designed by BLF member ToyKeeper 
Software written by BLF member ToyKeeper 
Host based on Eagle Eye A6, modified for deep-carry clip 
Manufactured for BLF by Manker 
On high modes, the BLF A6 uses a FET running in direct drive, so current—and light output—is limited by the battery rather than the driver. 

There are talks underway with Manker to see whether an optional 18350 battery tube can be made. Price to be $4.50, including an extra deep-carry clip.


*Output Levels and User Interface (2015-Oct-13) *

I have corrected the step-down period given above to 45 seconds (from 30 seconds). The BLF A6 uses this step-down because turbo mode overdrives the emitter at levels that can be as high as 5+ amps (with a spring bypass, and using the best high-discharge batteries). 

Running stock, on a battery such as the *Sanyo-Panasonic NCR18650GA Protected 3500mAh*, you can expect 1100-1200 lumens on turbo. After 45 seconds, the step-down takes you to the next lower level. If you have selected the 7-mode group, that should be around 700-750 lumens. The exact numbers depend on tint, battery state, and so on.



KeepingItLight said:


> The *BLF A6 Special Edition* works great in stock form...
> 
> [The following is copied from this prior post.]



The *BLF A6 Special Edition* works great in stock form. Running on something like the Sanyo-Panasonic NCR18650GA Protected 3500mAh, it outputs between 1100 and 1200 lumens. 

The BLF A6, however, is designed to be a burner. It uses a Noctigon copper mcpcb and a FET driver that runs in direct-drive mode on the highest setting. After a spring bypass, and using the best high-draw batteries, some owners have reported getting between 1500 and 1600 lumens on their 1A-tint flashlights. We're talking about more than 5A!

Because of this, the BLF A6 uses a timed step-down of only 45 seconds. The step-down takes you from turbo to the next lower level. See the chart below. 

In addition to this thermal step-down, the BLF A6 also steps down as its battery voltage wanes. It steps down one level at a time, until the final step down from moonlight turns the flashlight off completely. Low-voltage cutoff occurs at 2.9v.

Due to the direct-drive nature of the BLF A6, it is impossible to state output in terms of lumens. The FET will feed as many amps as the battery can supply. There are two output groups. Here are the percentages. For the FET, 100% = turbo, the highest mode. For the 7135, 100% = 350mA. 

*Group 1 – Seven Modes*

*Mode**7135 Power**FET Power*Moonlight0.8%0%Low8%0%Med 143%0%Med 2100%2.7%High 1100%22%High 2100%54%Turbo0%100%

*Group 2 – Four Modes
*
*Mode**7135 Power**FET Power*Low8%0%Med90%0%High100%35%Turbo0%100%

If I understand this correctly, then you can estimate lumen output in High 2 mode as follows. Suppose you are running a stock BLF A6 at 1150 lumens. 54% of that is 621 lumens. That's what the FET is doing. Add to that the output from the 7135 running at 100%. That should be something like 100-150 lumens. The result is that High 2 outputs approximately 750 lumens.

You can make a similar calculation to see what the modded BLF A6 can do.

Note that the BLF A6 uses PWM in most modes. The firmware developer ToyKeeper explained the PWM for me in detail:



> The A6 uses PWM on all modes except turbo and the two strobes. The frequency varies from ~14 kHz to ~18 kHz depending on the exact unit, except moon runs at half that speed for extra stability. On med-high modes, the 7135 chip stays on all the time while the FET channel pulses with PWM, so *it never actually shuts completely off*. Shower tests won’t be sufficient to detect PWM this fast, but it can be seen by _very_ rapidly moving a thin white card through the beam, or by measuring the pulses with a suitable digital multimeter.
> 
> When selfbuilt reviewed a similar light (SL2), he said it had no PWM but he detected some “high-frequency circuit noise” at 15 kHz. That was actually PWM he was seeing, but I guess he didn’t recognize it. So it’s a common misconception; even some of the most experienced reviewers may get a little confused about fast PWM… and the A6’s two-channel version is even harder to see.
> 
> [Emphasis added.]



I have been using the A6 extensively on all modes, and in my usage, I have not seen any flicker.

The BLF A6 has an innovative user interface designed by BLF member ToyKeeper. The flashlight has a reverse-clicky tail switch. Regular half-presses cycle from low to high. Long half-presses cycle in the reverse direction, from high to low. It is a very nice design. With seven different levels, it is very useful to be able to step up or down.

A long half-press from the lowest setting in either mode group takes you to turbo mode. From there, subsequent long half-presses cycle through the blinky modes. At any time, you can exit the blinky modes with a regular half-press.


*Some Bumps Along the Way (2015-Oct-17)*

The group buy has not been trouble free. Manker, the company that is manufacturing the custom design by BLF, has had a few problems. None of them should should discourage someone from buying a BLF A6, but there have been enough of them that they deserve mentioning. Most of them affected only a small number of flashlights, and most of them have been fixed.


*Flashlight threads not standard.* The original plan was to have parts from the BLF A6 be interchangeable with the earlier *BLF X6 Special Edition*. Something slipped during manufacturing, however, and the A6 threads are only compatible with the A6. No biggie. The A6 will still have a "shorty" tube that can be swapped with its regular tube when you want to run on an 18350 battery. The shorty tube is an optional accessory that will be sold separately. 
*Tubes not bored directly through their centers.* Early on, a small number of lights were bored so that the wall of the tube was thicker on one side than on the other. 
*Deep-carry clips had excessively large “wings.” * The BLF A6 uses a snap-on clip. The round part that snaps around the flashlight has little “wings” at each end so that the flashlight does not get scratched when attaching the clip. The wings bend out a little, away from the flashlight. With the clip in place, early versions protruded from the side of the flashlight more than they should have. 
*Moonlight (and sometimes other modes) not working.* This problem relates to 7135 and other chips that were improperly soldered or damaged during assembly. Only a small number of lights are involved. Sometimes your moonlight mode fails completely. Other times moonlight fails, and there is no difference in output between a couple of the modes that are working. 
*Emitter centering ring can slice emitter dome.* Inside the head, there is a white, plastic centering ring that fits over the emitter. It centers the emitter, and is held into place by pressure from the bottom of the reflector. When you screw or unscrew the bezel, sometimes the lens, reflector, and centering ring will all spin as the bezel turns. In some cases, the sharp edge of the plastic has sliced into the emitter dome, partially or completely dedoming it. This causes a distinct tint-shift to yellow. 
This last problem is one that lingers on. Most of us will never unscrew the bezel, but if you do, it is important to press down on the lens (with something like the eraser of a pencil) as you turn the bezel. Pressing down on the lens will hold the lens, reflector, and centering ring in place while you unscrew the bezel. This makes it so they don't spin. If you do that, you should not have any problems with the centering ring cutting into the emitter dome. Use the same process when you screw the bezel back on.

Banggood has been very good about fixing any problems. There is a special contact person who deals with A6 issues. You are stuck with your off-center tube and protruding wings on the clip (not a big deal), but broken drivers and emitters are all being fixed for free. 

Banggood is sending me a free head to fix the broken moonlight mode in one of my A6s. Six out of the seven levels worked fine. The seventh, moonlight, did not. There was no fuss and no requirement for me to send back my broken flashlight. I am stuck, however, with the awkward clips I received. I will swap them with the new clips that will be included with the shorty tubes I am planning to buy.


*No-hassle Repair (2015-Aug-22)*

My replacement head was sent out on Oct. 8 and arrived Oct. 19. I made the quick swap, and now I have moonlight mode back. I have been using the flashlight for a couple of days now. Works great. 

No charge, no hassle, and no need to return the defective head. Banggood did a nice job handling this repair.


*Mountain Electronics Custom A6 (2015-Nov-03)*

Mountain Electronics is now selling parts you can use to build your own A6 inside a Convoy S-series host. You can order the same emitters, driver, and firmware that make the BLF A6 so nice. For a small fee, Mountain Electronics will build the light for you. If you decide to go that way, ask Richard to do the spring-bypass for you. 

Check with Richard about the switch, as well. After a spring-bypass, the A6 driver can pull as much as 5+ amps. Make sure your switch can handle that. 

One buyer reported that the price for parts was around $37-$38 USD, depending which host you select. When shipping is added in, that price is not very different than what Banggood is selling the original BLF A6 for.


*Beam Shots (2015-Dec-10)*

Against my white wall (that is actually a bit warmer than neutral), I can see a little of the yellow that shows up in these photos. I think the photos do tend to exaggerate it somewhat. In normal usage, I do not notice it. 

For these pictures, I shot at normal exposure, and also 1 and 2 stops below. Both flashlights are set to Med 1 mode (i.e., third lowest). The standard BLF A6 is on the left. The shorty A6, on the right.


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## chuckhov (Aug 17, 2015)

I think that this light is going to be the Deal of the Year!

Thanks,
-Chuck


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## gunga (Aug 17, 2015)

Yep. I ordered 3


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## wacbzz (Aug 17, 2015)

gunga said:


> Yep. I ordered 3



So how does one get the code for the extra discounted price of $25?


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## gunga (Aug 17, 2015)

Have to pm bugsy36. Also post in the thread.


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## xzel87 (Aug 17, 2015)

Ordered 2 myself, 3D tint ran out unfortunately before I could get it, it's still being made but couldn't wait so ordered 5A and 1A.


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## DBCstm (Aug 18, 2015)

Please make note that the driver Wight designed is an FET+1 set-up, this uses the MOSFET for direct drive in the high modes, as you said, but it also uses a single 7135 350mA chip to run the lower modes. This is key because of the fact that PWM is using only 350mA instead of the full 5A+ the light is capable of, making lower modes highly efficient. As the user shifts through the default 7 modes, the FET starts kicking in, running high and Turbo at full power.

There are also key features, such as group selection by quickly pressing the switch some 16 times to get into the group selection mode, then, after seeing a double blink, turn the light off to enter the lights 4 mode group. Doing this sequence again and waiting through the double blink for a second double blink will allow the user to select or de-select off time memory. By default, the light starts in moon at all times. 

Also, even though this is a tail clicky light, a long press (approx 1/2 second) will reverse direction. Turning the light on then pressing the switch in this manner will enter a hidden loop, going straight into Turbo, a second long press enters Strobe, a third enters a battery check which can also be used as a beacon and a 4th enters a bicycle strobe. The battery check gives 5 blinks for a 4.35V or overcharged condition, 4 blinks for 100% (4.2V) 3 blinks for 75% 2 blinks for 50% and 1 blink for 25%. LVP kicks in at 3V and turns the light off at 2.8V.

This is a very nice, adequately advance driver that utilizes nice sets in a normal clicky light, no parasitic drain when off. The switch is a reverse clicky small Omten.

These features are available because of ToyKeeper, Wight made the driver and fine tuned it to function flawlessly, ToyKeeper made it fit our needs to perfection, even fine tuning the spacing of the modes to be pleasing to the eye and how well the off time cap responds to "brown out" mode selection. For me, this is the epitome of the flashaholics dream light.  (yes, I am a tester for the group buy and have been using this in many lights now, loving it and addicted to it!)

I have a horrible memory for things such as fancy UI's. But obviously, this one I'm passionate about! lol What a light! I know, it might seem complicated to see it written down as I have, but in use, it's so simple it's perfect... even for folks like me with a horrid memory.

Don't miss out!


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## moshow9 (Aug 18, 2015)

This looks like one interesting light that had a lot of work go in to it. Going to try one out.


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## KeepingItLight (Aug 18, 2015)

wacbzz said:


> So how does one get the code for the extra discounted price of $25?





KeepingItLight said:


> At this time, you can still join the group buy, and get a code for the $25 price. This post at BLF describes the flashlight and how to join the group buy.


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## KeepingItLight (Aug 18, 2015)

DBCstm said:


> Don't miss out!



Thanks, DBCstm. There is not much I can add to your great explanation. 

The BLF A6 is designed to be a burner. In its highest modes, the A6 uses direct drive. That means it will feed as much current as it can get from the battery to the emitter. In order to get its highest output, however, you must mod the light by adding a spring bypass. That's a short wire that is soldered onto the spring in the tail cap. It goes from one end of the spring to the other. In addition, you must run unprotected batteries that are rated for high discharge. 

That combination yields 1600 lumens in turbo mode. After a short 30 seconds, the A6 steps down from turbo to high. You can step back up immediately, but the light will quickly begin to get very hot at that level. Turbo is intended only for short blasts.

The XP-L emitter used by the BLF A6 is mounted on a copper Noctigon mcpcb. This provides very good heat sinking. Because of it, the XP-L can be driven at much higher current levels than normal. In testing by DBCstm and others, the A6 was able to push over 5A through the LED. That's how you get 1600+ lumens in turbo mode. 

If you don't want to do the spring bypass, you can still maximize output by selecting unprotected, high-draw batteries. One good choice is the Samsung INR18650 - 30Q 3000mAh. As part of the group buy, Banggood has supplied a coupon code that allows you to purchase them for $5.84 USD each. You can find the code in post #3571 of the A6 thread at BLF.

For those who prefer protected batteries, one good choice is the Sanyo-Panasonic NCR18650GA Protected 3500mAh. Mountain Electronics has them for $10.15. This battery is rated for a continuous 10A discharge, so it will do pretty well in the A6. Don't expect, however, that output will reach 1600 lumens. A stock A6 (without the spring bypass) running this battery will probably get something closer to 1200-1300 lumens, but there have not been any tests to verify this as yet.

Regardless of the battery used, the A6 has progressive step-downs when battery voltage gets low. When the voltage drops too low, a low-voltage cutoff turns off the flashlight completely. You are thus protected from over-discharge.

There are two mode groups in the A6. One has 4 constant-output levels. The other has 7. You can switch between them using the 16-click procedure described by DBCstm above.


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## KeepingItLight (Aug 18, 2015)

xzel87 said:


> Ordered 2 myself, 3D tint ran out unfortunately before I could get it, it's still being made but couldn't wait so ordered 5A and 1A.




The initial run was for 1000 lights, 500 of which use the neutral-white 3D tint. Initial production, however, was for 150 using a neutral/warm 5A tint and 350 using cool-white 1A. The 3D is expected to be available in a matter of days.

Guess you'll just have to order one of those next week!

Manker and Banggood have announced their intention to keep this group buy open for as long as there is demand. They will not stop at 1000 flashlights. When demand falls off, the group buy will end. Manker/Banggood have the right to continue making/selling the light after that, but they have no obligation to do so. If they choose to continue making it, it won't be sold at the price available in the group buy.


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## MountainKing (Aug 18, 2015)

Waiting to get the 3D one  Hopefully available soon!


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## sanders (Aug 25, 2015)

Dear Forum - I am new Member from Switzerland and I would like to order one BLF Manker A6 - is this still possible?

Thanks,
Michael


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## chuckhov (Aug 25, 2015)

Yes it is, but you have to go to the BLF to do it. - This is CPF.

Thanks,
-Chuck


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## sanders (Aug 25, 2015)

Thanks Chuck, I got it and was able to order!


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## onthebeam (Aug 28, 2015)

Was thinking of getting similar format Convoy in red. Early reviews of build quality on the huge group buy seem mixed. 

Thoughts on whether blf is still a no brainer at $25 versus less for lower lumens Convoy?I prefer smaller lights for edc so this would get occasional use. I'm a red kinda guy with four red cars in a row over 25 years and a red Schwinn fastback bike way back when.


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## xzel87 (Aug 28, 2015)

You could cerakote it red, or any colour you want. This light is great for what it is, the thought put into it, and at 25 dollars to boot. It also has all the modes a fancy electronic switch has with a reverse clicky, I'm not aware of any other production light with that.

Seriously, even if you end up not liking it, it's only 25 dollars...Im pretty sure alot of us here (not me though can't afford it) on cpf has spent much more on a light and for whatever reason it doesn't get used, is given away, or sits in a drawer or shelf.


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## markr6 (Oct 13, 2015)

Ahhh backorder  I ordered one last week but won't restock until 10/27. Well that's what my email said. The website says 10/20. Either way, I'm looking forward to it!


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## Tixx (Oct 13, 2015)

markr6 said:


> Ahhh backorder  I ordered one last week but won't restock until 10/27. Well that's what my email said. The website says 10/20. Either way, I'm looking forward to it!


Yeah, just got that same email.


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## gunga (Oct 13, 2015)

I had the black one. Sold it. Now I have a bare one. Keeping this one. Love the bare option. Cool UI. Great price.


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## ven (Oct 13, 2015)

Im 50/50 to cancel my order, was in stock when ordered or i would not have!! 2nd time in 2 orders BG have done this now and its making me 


I prefer the bare too, may get one at a later date and give up for now............


Other than that, looks an excellent light!!!


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## KeepingItLight (Oct 13, 2015)

Today, I added much new information to the original post. It is almost three times longer than before.


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## Tixx (Oct 13, 2015)

Worth the wait. If you cancel and order later, you still wait.


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## KeepingItLight (Oct 18, 2015)

*Some Bumps Along the Way (2015-Oct-17)*

The group buy for the *BLF A6 Special Edition* has not been trouble free. Manker, the company that is manufacturing the custom design by BLF, has had a few problems. Most of them affected only a small number of flashlights, and have been corrected.

Today, I added a section at the end of the original post that discusses some these issues.


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## uofaengr (Oct 18, 2015)

Thanks for the update! [emoji106]


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## ven (Oct 18, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> Thanks for the update! [emoji106]




+1 


Well cancelled order as i am no good at waiting at the best of times..........Will see what the new batches are like and see if/what issues may arise. If i do bite it will be for the naked version


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## uofaengr (Oct 22, 2015)

Got an email overnight that mine has shipped and my order page shows a tracking number though the webpage says they won't be in stock till 10/28. Whether it has actually shipped I don't know or maybe they just created a label. Never had something shipped directly from China before that I know of. I did opt for the $3 priority shipping so we'll see what happens.

Edit: It does show "processed through sort facility FLYTEXPRESS-CN" at 16:47 so I guess it's legit on its way. Glad I rode it out and didn't cancel. If it hadn't shipped by the 28th, I'd likely cancelled and just waited till after I move to reorder.


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## KeepingItLight (Oct 22, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> Got an email overnight that mine has shipped and my order page shows a tracking number though the webpage says they won't be in stock till 10/28. Whether it has actually shipped I don't know or maybe they just created a label. Never had something shipped directly from China before that I know of. I did opt for the $3 priority shipping so we'll see what happens.



Great! Usually, a tracking number is assigned before the shipment. The first tracking location is usually a postal facility in Shenzhen. When that show up, you know it has been sent.

My replacement head was sent out on Oct. 8 and arrived Oct. 19. I made the quick swap, and now I have moonlight mode back. No charge, no hassle, and no need to return the defective head. Banggood did a nice job handling this repair.


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## KeepingItLight (Oct 22, 2015)

Whoops. 

Pretend this is a photo of a cute kitten.


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## Tixx (Oct 22, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> Got an email overnight that mine has shipped and my order page shows a tracking number though the webpage says they won't be in stock till 10/28. Whether it has actually shipped I don't know or maybe they just created a label. Never had something shipped directly from China before that I know of. I did opt for the $3 priority shipping so we'll see what happens.
> 
> Edit: It does show "processed through sort facility FLYTEXPRESS-CN" at 16:47 so I guess it's legit on its way. Glad I rode it out and didn't cancel. If it hadn't shipped by the 28th, I'd likely cancelled and just waited till after I move to reorder.


Just got a shipping notice as well.


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## xzel87 (Oct 22, 2015)

Well I accidentally dedomed mine, was running it on turbo then decided to open the head right after. Naturally the was soft so off clean it went with the centering piece. Throws a lot farther now. Tint shift not noticeable since I had the warmest tint to begin with. BTW I was lucky the forced dedoming didn't damage the bond wires. There's still some stuff left over the wires.


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## Fireclaw18 (Oct 22, 2015)

I've read that to prevent that from happening with this light it is helpful to press down on the lens with something soft when screwing in the bezel.


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## Tixx (Oct 22, 2015)

Fireclaw18 said:


> I've read that to prevent that from happening with this light it is helpful to press down on the lens with something soft when screwing in the bezel.


Yeah, said use a pencil eraser or something.


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## uofaengr (Oct 22, 2015)

Any reason to open the head other than just curiosity?


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## Tixx (Oct 22, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> Any reason to open the head other than just curiosity?



Was wondering that myself.


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## Fireclaw18 (Oct 22, 2015)

Tixx said:


> Was wondering that myself.



Main reason would be if you wanted to do an emitter swap. Perhaps swap the XPL to an XPL HI for more throw.

Alternatively, you might remove the bezel in order to convert the light to a triple.


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## KeepingItLight (Oct 22, 2015)

[_The following is adapted from a note in the OP._]

*CAUTION: Emitter centering ring can slice emitter dome. *

Inside the head, there is a white, plastic centering ring that fits over the emitter. It centers the emitter, and is held into place by pressure from the bottom of the reflector. When you screw or unscrew the bezel, sometimes the lens, reflector, and centering ring will all spin as the bezel turns. In some cases, the sharp edge of the plastic has sliced into the emitter dome, partially or completely dedoming it. This causes a distinct tint-shift to yellow. 

Most of us will never unscrew the bezel, but if you do, it is important to press down on the lens (with something like the eraser of a pencil) as you turn the bezel. Pressing down on the lens will hold the lens, reflector, and centering ring in place while you unscrew the bezel. This makes it so they don't rotate. If you do that, you should not have any problems with the centering ring cutting into the emitter dome. Use the same process when you screw the bezel back on.


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## xzel87 (Oct 22, 2015)

Water got inside the head, oring not seating properly. Opened head to dry it out and repeat lens oring.


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## recDNA (Oct 22, 2015)

Is there a picture of the A6?


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## KeepingItLight (Oct 25, 2015)

_Today, I added the following information to the discussion in the OP of the PWM used by the *BLF A6 Special Edition*._


Note that the BLF A6 uses PWM in most modes. The firmware developer ToyKeeper explained the PWM for me in detail:



> The A6 uses PWM on all modes except turbo and the two strobes. The frequency varies from ~14 kHz to ~18 kHz depending on the exact unit, except moon runs at half that speed for extra stability. On med-high modes, the 7135 chip stays on all the time while the FET channel pulses with PWM, so *it never actually shuts completely off*. Shower tests won’t be sufficient to detect PWM this fast, but it can be seen by _very_ rapidly moving a thin white card through the beam, or by measuring the pulses with a suitable digital multimeter.
> 
> When selfbuilt reviewed a similar light (SL2), he said it had no PWM but he detected some “high-frequency circuit noise” at 15 kHz. That was actually PWM he was seeing, but I guess he didn’t recognize it. So it’s a common misconception; even some of the most experienced reviewers may get a little confused about fast PWM… and the A6’s two-channel version is even harder to see.
> 
> [Emphasis added.]



I have been using the A6 extensively on all modes, and in my usage, I have not seen any flicker.


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## DrafterDan (Oct 25, 2015)

I picked up one a few weeks ago, overall a great light for the $. 
It's a bit over the top with modes, too much for me to memorize, but fun to play with. I'm going to do the LED tailcap and wired spring


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## TacticalFleshlight (Oct 25, 2015)

An LED tailcap sounds cool.


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## KeepingItLight (Oct 25, 2015)

DrafterDan said:


> It's a bit over the top with modes, too much for me to memorize, but fun to play with. I'm going to do the LED tailcap and wired spring



So far, I'm running mine stock. 

FYI: If seven different brightness levels is too many for you, you can change to a four-mode group as follows. 

With the flashlight on, enter programming mode by doing 16 quick half presses. After that, wait for a flash, and then turn the flashlight off immediately. (Actually, there are two flashes, but you can turn it off after the first.) When you turn it back on, you will have only four brightness levels. 

Repeat the process to go back to the seven-mode group.

If you let the two flashes go by, and then turn off after you see the third, you can toggle mode-memory on and off.

I like the seven-mode group, but I can see how it might be too much. One feature the A6 has that makes things more manageable is the long presses that let you go from a brighter mode to a lower mode.


Regular half-press:Next higher modeLong half-press:Next lower mode



TacticalFleshlight said:


> An LED tailcap sounds cool.



You are right up to date! 

The tail-cap LED is a new feature announced yesterday for the *BLF X6 Special Edition, version 2*. When power is off, a long-lived LED turns on in the switch. Although you cannot turn this feature on and off in software, there will be a simple way to defeat it. That may involve a supplied alternate switch or other part that can swapped on in a minute or two. You can read more about the BLF X6 in this discussion thread at CPF.

As yet, the tail-cap LED is not available on the *BLF A6 Special Edition*, but that is not stopping Dan. He's going to make his own!


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## markr6 (Oct 27, 2015)

Got my shipping notification 10/26...hurry up and wait now!


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## thx1138 (Oct 27, 2015)

These are back in stock, I just ordered the 3D last night. Can't wait!


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## uofaengr (Oct 30, 2015)

Well mine is in New York finally....so at least it's in the country... [emoji4]


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## emarkd (Oct 30, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> Well mine is in New York finally....so at least it's in the country... [emoji4]



Your first and my second must've been on the same boat. I got my black ano light a few weeks ago but my bare unanodized light just made it to New York as well. I really don't have the patience for Chinese shipping, but it shouldn't be much longer now.


----------



## fnsooner (Oct 30, 2015)

USPS just delivered mine. Pretty nice. Worth 25 dollars.


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## Tixx (Oct 30, 2015)

Just received 2 more today of the 5a. Very cool lights for the price and 18350 bodies are coming which I really want.


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## KeepingItLight (Oct 30, 2015)

Tixx said:


> Just received 2 more today of the 5a. Very cool lights for the price and 18350 bodies are coming which I really want.




I bought a pair of *BLF A6 Special Edition* flashlights with 3D tint. I got them as backups, just to keep around the house. At the price, they are perfect for that duty. Tint is excellent.

I have found that the A6 is a great general-purpose light. I use it around the house and for after dinner walks. I also EDC one when I go into the city. I swap out my *ZebraLight SC62w* when I am carrying the A6. (I would rather lose one of my A6s than the ZL!)

I am on the list for the upcoming 18350 body tube as well. That's a short tube that completely replaces the body tube on the A6. When that gets into production in a few weeks (or so), there may be coupon code for a high-draw KeepPower 18350. Keep your eyes peeled for that.


----------



## markr6 (Oct 30, 2015)

I didn't get my mail over the past 2 days. Today I saw the "attempted delivery" card. Damn!!! I don't know if it was this or my Olight R30. Something from sender "Hong Kong" LOL. Going to pick it up tomorrow.


----------



## LEDeez (Oct 31, 2015)

Coupon code expired. Now not such a good deal.


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## ven (Oct 31, 2015)

Came in today and initial impressions are very good, solid feel,quite thick walls and a nice 3d tint. Tbh there really is nothing to not like for the money! Feels more like a $50+ light and some.........





In hand size, quite compact and certainly shorter than i was expecting, nice size for an 18650 edc light




Led spot in centre




Poor attempt at beam pic on a lower setting as overwhelms camera if too high,colour/tint not far off




Random size pic line up




My verdict in one word, with all cost/value/build/tint/UI taken into consideration is simply...........excellent


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## ven (Oct 31, 2015)

Both great budget lights,size comp


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## uofaengr (Oct 31, 2015)

@ven nice tint! Does yours have any AR coating?


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## uofaengr (Oct 31, 2015)

emarkd said:


> Your first and my second must've been on the same boat. I got my black ano light a few weeks ago but my bare unanodized light just made it to New York as well. I really don't have the patience for Chinese shipping, but it shouldn't be much longer now.


Wondering if the extra $3 priority shipping was even worth it.....


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## ven (Oct 31, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> @ven nice tint! Does yours have any AR coating?



Not as obvious as some lights but yes,managed to catch it a little ,slight purple coating


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 2, 2015)

On November 1, 2015, the price of the BLF A6 was raised to $29.95 (with coupon code). 

The original price of $25 was negotiated on behalf of the 900+ BLF members who joined the group buy. After all of them received their flashlights, the seller allowed the coupon to be released to the public. It then sold perhaps another 1000 lights at the $25 price. 

Although it would be nice to see the lower price kept available forever, we knew it had to end eventually.

[_I updated the OP with this message._]


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## ven (Nov 2, 2015)

Took mine out trick or treating and now in work to use for a bit. It's certainly worth $30 easy and IMHO a bargain still.


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## emarkd (Nov 2, 2015)

Finally got my unanodized light in today. I like it even better than the black ano.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 3, 2015)

Looks great! I love the etching on the no-ano light.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 3, 2015)

_Edit: The coupon code has not been deactivated. Please disregard the section below that says it has been. When I tried it again today, 2015-Nov-05, it worked fine. It is good for a $10 price reduction, resulting in a price of $29.95.

---------------------------------------_

_When I tried the coupon code for the BLF A6 today, I found that it had been deactivated. The following message was added to the OP today.
_

*Coupon Code Deactivated (2015-Nov-03)*

The coupon code for the *BLF A6 Special Edition* has finally been deactivated. You can still buy the BLF A6 at Banggood, but without the coupon, the price is $39.95 USD. 

The code was created for the 900+ people who joined the original group buy. When those buyers had completed their purchases, Banggood allowed the coupon to be offered to the general public. Somewhere between 1000 and 2000 additional flashlights were sold at the coupon price. 

I am sorry to see the price go up, but frankly, isn't that how every group buy ends? It had to happen sooner or later. 


*Mountain Electronics Custom A6 (2015-Nov-03)*

Mountain Electronics is now selling parts you can use to build your own A6 inside a Convoy S-series host. You can order the same emitters, driver, and firmware that make the BLF A6 so nice. For a small fee, Mountain Electronics will build the light for you. If you decide to go that way, ask Richard to do the spring-bypass for you. 

Check with Richard about the switch, as well. After a spring-bypass, the A6 driver can pull as much as 5+ amps. Make sure your switch can handle that. 

One buyer reported that the price for parts was around $37-$38 USD, depending which host you select.


----------



## thslw8jg (Nov 4, 2015)

Don't you mean Richard?


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 4, 2015)

Indeed. Thanks for the correction.

OP updated.


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## uofaengr (Nov 5, 2015)

Well mine showed up yesterday...nice little birthday present. These are my initial impressions:

Barely discernible purple AR coating on the lens resulting in pretty nice 3D tint. 
Blindingly bright on turbo! 
After 45 seconds on turbo it's almost too hot to touch at the head so beware when using turbo frequently. 
The only QC issues I can see is some chatter on the edge of the knurling nearest the head and that's if you're looking for something to nitpick, and the emitter is slightly off center but it does not appear to affect the beam, and the beam profile is very smooth. 
The clip is a nice subdued color, but probably won't use it. 

I have a light in a Convoy S3 host built by Richard, but I'm gonna have to say I prefer the A6 host. The S3 feels bigger and heavier though the A6 seems maybe a quarter inch longer. The A6 also seems in hand just slightly smaller in diameter and combined with the more aggressive knurling, it feels better in hand to me and slightly better in pocket. If Richard sold the A6 host, I'd definitely have him build and test one for me. 

With regards to batteries, I compared one of each fully charged EVVA protected NCR18650GA and an unprotected NCR18650GA. The protected EVVA put out considerably more output on modes 5 through 7 when comparing with a lux meter calibrated to match Zebralight lumens. I thought this was strange, but have seen this on other modded lights and think maybe something is up with that one battery. I plan to charge up a 25R to see how it compares. My lumen estimates were basically the same as what mhanlen had in his review for modes 1-4. Mine were higher on 5-7, but his was 5A I believe. Either way I'd love to see a 3D put in a true sphere. 

I struggled to decide if I wanted 4 or 7 mode. The first 3 modes on 4 mode are ballpark 12, 140, 600+. So very quick to put me in a very usable 140 lumens in my daily needs which is primarily within 3 feet. But I went with 7 mode for right now and why I love fast reverse clickies with no memory like on my S3. I know where I'm gonna start every time, and in a fraction of a second can be in a medium-high mode. Even better, you can go backwards with this awesome UI which I feel is a must if a UI has memory which fortunately is selectable in this light. I almost think I prefer a no memory reverse clicky interface to that of the Zebralight UI which is top contender for my favorite. With ZL there can be too much double clicking and timing (and mis-timing) and I grow tired of feeling like I need to be conscious of what mode I'm turning the light off in for the next time I turn it on. 

In summary, was it worth $25 and a near month long wait for this light? Hell yes. Would I buy another? At $25, hell yes. At $40 with questionable QC? I'm not sure. At $40 for Richard to build and test one in an A6 host? Absolutely. If I knew where I could get A6 hosts, I might would give it a shot myself. Kickass light and will see how long it stays in pocket particularly as jobsite EDC...highly recommend, and that's not just new light fever talking. [emoji106]


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## ven (Nov 5, 2015)

Great feedback uofaengr, if i had to find faults it would be the too springy clip..........bit weak and the almost sharp edges of the tail cap. Its not enough to cut, enough to notice though and would have been better rounded. No deal breakers for me


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 6, 2015)

Come and get it! 

Looks like the Banggood coupon for the *BLF A6 Special Edition* is still active. It is good for a $10 discount, giving $29.95 USD as the current price of a BLF A6.

I have corrected the posts above where I reported that the coupon had lapsed.


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## uofaengr (Nov 6, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> Come and get it!
> 
> Looks like the Banggood coupon for the *BLF A6 Special Edition* is still active. It is good for a $10 discount, giving $29.95 USD as the current price of a BLF A6.
> 
> I have corrected the posts above where reported that the coupon had lapsed.


Uh oh... Well technically I paid over $28 for my black version. I might could live with $30 for an unanodized since I don't think the priority shipping made any difference. Hmm...would I want another 3D or 5A....


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## ven (Nov 6, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> Uh oh... Well technically I paid over $28 for my black version. I might could live with $30 for an unanodized since I don't think the priority shipping made any difference. Hmm...would I want another 3D or 5A....



Of course you would


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## uofaengr (Nov 6, 2015)

Couldn't resist. I like this light so much that I went ahead and sprung for the non-anodized version in 3D. I'd take my black one over my TN12 any day and just might sell it. There happens to be a code out there to bring the non-anodized version down to $27. No way I could resist for that price.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 6, 2015)

Yeah, that unanodized one has me thinking I need to buy a third A6.

I must resist...


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## jonnyfgroove (Nov 6, 2015)

Is the coupon code still working for everyone? I can't seem to get it to work.

EDIT: Doh, nevermind. I didn't realize the code for un anodized was different.


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## markr6 (Nov 9, 2015)

I just received mine. While my battery is charging, here's all I can say:

1. Very nice "dry" matte finish. Knurling is very grippy.
2. Not much lube on the threads so I'll need to add a little.
3. LED is perfectly centered.
4. Nicest clicky I've ever had! Firm, but a little quieter than what I'm used to (Fenix and Eagletac)
5. Clip seems a little weak, but not bad. It moves around on the body more than I'd like.

I'll add some comments on the beam/tint after I give it a good test.

OK I just played around with this for a bit. *3D tint is VERY NICE!!!* If anything, maybe a little green on medium, but almost not worth mentioning. Very nice 5000K here 

The programming confused me at first; I didn't know the light had to be ON first, then 15 fast clicks. Easy. I set the 4-mode setting, which I find to be perfect even without the moon mode. I somehow un-programmed memory, but that's OK.


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## ven (Nov 9, 2015)

Hey Mark, to toggle memory on/off ,do your 15 presses from on,then you get 2 blinks,then again 2 blinks. In between the 2 blinks switch off and this toggles memory.


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## markr6 (Nov 9, 2015)

ven said:


> Hey Mark, to toggle memory on/off ,do your 15 presses from on,then you get 2 blinks,then again 2 blinks. In between the 2 blinks switch off and this toggles memory.



Thanks ven I think I have it now. The second set of 2 blinks, not the first, correct? The first seems to be for the 7/4 mode selection.

Wow, $25. It almost makes me feel guilty buying $100 lights! This one is a winner!


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## ven (Nov 9, 2015)

Yes , between 2nd set of blinks


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## uofaengr (Nov 9, 2015)

markr6 said:


> Thanks ven I think I have it now. The second set of 2 blinks, not the first, correct? The first seems to be for the 7/4 mode selection.
> 
> Wow, $25. It almost makes me feel guilty buying $100 lights! This one is a winner!


Yeah the second set for memory toggle. I feel the same way about what I received for the price. It seems there are several displeased members over on BLF regarding what they received. I would've never thought lovers of budget lights would be so nitpicky about...a budget light. And this is excluding receiving the wrong tint which is absolutely pissed off worthy. I love my $100+ lights, but I'd legitimately be bummed out if I lost my A6, wayyyy more than if I lost my Thrunites, and can't wait to receive my 2nd one. 

To me, the UI and features put it over the top. If it was just a standard 4 mode light then meh, an ok light that I'm not sure I buy. But the option for 4/7 modes and memory, reversible mode switching, straight to turbo from moonlight, battery checking function, and over discharge protection put it over the top for me.


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## emarkd (Nov 9, 2015)

markr6 said:


> The programming confused me at first; I didn't know the light had to be ON first, then 15 fast clicks. Easy.



Hey I see you post a lot in the Zebralight threads. I also love some Zebralights. I think your confusion was thinking like an e-switch light but working with a mechanical clicky. They're slightly different, for sure. That A6 (I have two of them) has a very solid Omten-brand mechanical switch in its tail so its not quite the same as the e-switches you may be used to. Its very nice once you get used to it though, especially for a tail-clicker. I've got $100+ lights with mechanical tail switches that don't feel as nice as the Omten in the A6.


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## markr6 (Nov 9, 2015)

emarkd said:


> Hey I see you post a lot in the Zebralight threads. I also love some Zebralights. I think your confusion was thinking like an e-switch light but working with a mechanical clicky. They're slightly different, for sure. That A6 (I have two of them) has a very solid Omten-brand mechanical switch in its tail so its not quite the same as the e-switches you may be used to. Its very nice once you get used to it though, especially for a tail-clicker. I've got $100+ lights with mechanical tail switches that don't feel as nice as the Omten in the A6.



No I _was _referring to mechanical forward/reverse clickies. My Eagletac S200C2, T25C2, Fenix PD32UE, all have the distinct "CLICK". But this A6 is different. It's hard to describe but basically like my Fenix lights with about 50% less noise. It also feels like there's less travel. I love it!


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## dc38 (Nov 9, 2015)

markr6 said:


> I just received mine. While my battery is charging, here's all I can say:
> 
> 1. Very nice "dry" matte finish. Knurling is very grippy.
> 2. Not much lube on the threads so I'll need to add a little.
> ...



Lol...im still waiting on mine


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## markr6 (Nov 9, 2015)

Just in case you missed it...

I FREAKING LOVE THIS LIGHT!!!! :twothumbs


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## Nitetime (Nov 9, 2015)

I agree, this is a great light. I will be getting the 18350 tube when it is available and I am on the list for the X6 - X5 ss/cu set as well. [emoji39]


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## Camo5 (Nov 9, 2015)

Bought one for my brother, the 5A, here it is next to my Olight S30R and 30Rv2


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## D6859 (Nov 9, 2015)

I just got really interested in this light! This might be the Christmas gift I give to myself.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 9, 2015)

Camo5 said:


>



Nice pics!

Just in case there are readers who do not already know, you need to be careful if you take the bezel off your *BLF A6 Special Edition* flashlight. Sometimes the white plastic centering ring will rotate along with the bezel. Its sharp edges can cut into the dome of the the emitter, partially or completely dedoming it.

A good trick is to press down on the lens with the eraser of a pencil while you screw or unscrew the bezel. The prevents the lens/reflector/centering ring from turning while you remove the bezel.


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## markr6 (Nov 9, 2015)

One quirk I found after using this tonight. At least with memory off: if you're using it on low, turn it off, then decide you need it on again, it often comes on TURBO. You need to wait the ~2 seconds for it to reset otherwise it thinks you're doing a long click to go backwards. Of course turbo is the last thing you want if you planned on low! That's just how the UI is. I'm not saying it's an error.

Great light. I used it for a bit to check my tires. It said the left front was low, but turns out it was really the right rear! Someone screwed up when rotating my tires.


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## dc38 (Nov 9, 2015)

Oh man...im still waiting on mine...ordered before you did lol


markr6 said:


> One quirk I found after using this tonight. At least with memory off: if you're using it on low, turn it off, then decide you need it on again, it often comes on TURBO. You need to wait the ~2 seconds for it to reset otherwise it thinks you're doing a long click to go backwards. Of course turbo is the last thing you want if you planned on low! That's just how the UI is. I'm not saying it's an error.
> 
> Great light. I used it for a bit to check my tires. It said the left front was low, but turns out it was really the right rear! Someone screwed up when rotating my tires.


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## markr6 (Nov 10, 2015)

I was using mine in the basement last night. I dropped it on the concrete HARD! Only some cosmetic damage, and it's not that bad; just a nick in the corner of the tailcap switch and a small flake of anodizing missing where the clip attaches. She's broken in now. $25, you can't afford to worry


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## holygeez03 (Nov 10, 2015)

The anodized version appears to $27 right now with no coupon code... at banggood.


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## markr6 (Nov 10, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> The anodized version appears to $27 right now with no coupon code... at banggood.



It was $25.something yesterday. Anything under $30 is a great deal. I'd even call it a good $40 light.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 10, 2015)

Yeah... the non-ano can be purchased for $27 with coupon code... 

Markr6... I posted a question about the switch in a new thread... you would probably be a good person to provide feedback, if you don't mind.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?411127-BLF-A6-Switch-Question


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## dc38 (Nov 10, 2015)

markr6 said:


> It was $25.something yesterday. Anything under $30 is a great deal. I'd even call it a good $40 light.



Please dont do that...the wholesalers and sellers read the threads and drive the prices up accordingly...


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## markr6 (Nov 10, 2015)

dc38 said:


> Please dont do that...the wholesalers and sellers read the threads and drive the prices up accordingly...



I don't know that they do. I'll remove that if a mod instructs me to do so. Otherwise, it's just general info out there...it's up to the seller to show or "hide" it. The same as if I said there's a red Ford in my street with the license plate H48B32, or that Jim Schwartz's phone number is 482-7963. It's out there for anyone to find without any difficulty whatsoever.

If I'm _that important _that they're basing prices on me, I guess I'm flattered. But I don't believe it.


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## uofaengr (Nov 10, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> The anodized version appears to $27 right now with no coupon code... at banggood.


Oh geez.. Why do they have to keep tempting me? I really don't need a 3rd. Trying to tell myself two is enough...

I haven't even considered carrying anything else since I got it. On an unrelated note, many on BLF say the Samsung 30Q is the best battery for the A6, but I charged up a 25R and got considerably LESS output than with an EVVA protected NCR18650GA on modes 5-7 (got the same numbers I got with an unprotected GA). Maybe an anomaly battery, but the EVVA is my battery of choice for the foreseeable future and think the GA is just fine for this light.


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## markr6 (Nov 10, 2015)

With a runtime as low as 25 minutes on turbo, I say stick with the higher capacity cells! I say "as low as" since it depends on several factors.


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## uofaengr (Nov 10, 2015)

I've got the 25R in there today trying to run it down to 3.7V so I can put it back in storage, but after that, back to the GAs for me! Don't think I'll be attempting the spring bypass because the 1400-1500 lumens I'm already getting on turbo yields a scorcher at the head after less than a minute.


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## markr6 (Nov 10, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> I've got the 25R in there today trying to run it down to 3.7V so I can put it back in storage, but after that, back to the GAs for me! Don't think I'll be attempting the spring bypass because the 1400-1500 lumens I'm already getting on turbo yields a scorcher at the head after less than a minute.



Yeah, I'm glad the high vs turbo isn't a big difference. On + 2 short taps gets me to high. Done! No real need for turbo IMO, but it's one more click away :naughty:


----------



## uofaengr (Nov 10, 2015)

Even naughtier, I go with on + medium press straight to turbo... [emoji14]


----------



## cccpull (Nov 10, 2015)

What current draw are you getting with the unprotected GA? 
Thanks


----------



## markr6 (Nov 10, 2015)

cccpull said:


> What current draw are you getting with the unprotected GA?
> Thanks



I didn't think to check that yet. I'll try it soon and see what I get...


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## cccpull (Nov 10, 2015)

So what's the consensus of the best high capacity vs output battery for this light?


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## markr6 (Nov 10, 2015)

cccpull said:


> So what's the consensus of the best high capacity vs output battery for this light?



Samsung 30Q (3000mAh) or Panasonic NCR18650GA (3500mAh)?

I wish I could find a comparison between the two. After analyzing, we may find out the extra 500mAh isn't worth a (possible?) hit in output/sag? I don't know, just thinking out loud.


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## ven (Nov 10, 2015)

I would say if your a high to low user or kind of more in the middle with output then run time would be the choice in 3500mah. If a lumen junky and a little more OTF then 30q would be the choice. I dont think eyes would be able to tell in output though If like me and tend to top back the cells once down to 3.8v or so,then again the higher mah may not make a noticeable difference........just thoughts


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## holygeez03 (Nov 10, 2015)

I'm gonna try a non-ano with the 5A tint... hope it's nice... also ordering a couple non-protected NCR 18650's along with it... can someone point me to a link that describe the programming?


----------



## cccpull (Nov 10, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> I'm gonna try a non-ano with the 5A tint... hope it's nice... also ordering a couple non-protected NCR 18650's along with it... can someone point me to a link that describe the programming?



http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykee.../trunk/view/head:/ToyKeeper/blf-a6/blf-a6.txt


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## holygeez03 (Nov 10, 2015)

Does this seem like a good battery choice for the A6... yes, I know they are "clones" and I know there are higher quality cells out there... but this is a budget light, so I need high-value cells as well. I do not want to venture into "high current" cells since the extra lumens are most likely not worth the associated risk, heat, and capacity loss for me.

http://www.banggood.com/2PCS-NCR-3400mAH-18650-3_7-V-Lithium-Rechargeable-Battery-p-87078.html


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## ven (Nov 10, 2015)

I would buy some Samsung 30Q instead, don't get me wrong the pany cells are good, just this light is better with imr or inr chemistry.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 10, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> Does this seem like a good battery choice for the A6... yes, I know they are "clones" and I know there are higher quality cells out there... but this is a budget light, so I need high-value cells as well. I do not want to venture into "high current" cells since the extra lumens are most likely not worth the associated risk, heat, and capacity loss for me.
> 
> http://www.banggood.com/2PCS-NCR-3400mAH-18650-3_7-V-Lithium-Rechargeable-Battery-p-87078.html



The battery you linked is probably not a good choice for the *BLF A6 Special Edition*. The A6 uses a FET+1 driver. In turbo mode, it will pull as many amps as it can get from your battery. That will push the "B" battery a little hard. A better choice from the same manufacturer is the "GA", i.e., NCR18650GA. The "GA" is rated for a maximum continuous discharge of 10 amps. That gives you plenty of headroom to handle the 4+ amps the stock A6 will pull. 

The A6 can run using either the protected or unprotected GA. Because the A6 has a low-voltage cutoff that completely turns off the flashlight when battery voltage gets too low, unprotected is a reasonable choice.

I am using the Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mah 20A Power Li-ion Battery. That is an unprotected battery that gives good performance. I bought mine from Banggood using a coupon code supplied by M4D M4X at BLF. Check with him via PM at BLF. He may still have code you can use. With the coupon, I paid $5.56 USD each. Without a coupon, Banggood lists them today at $5.99 USD. Two cost a penny less than the batteries you linked.


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## fnsooner (Nov 10, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> I'm gonna try a non-ano with the 5A tint... hope it's nice...


It is.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 10, 2015)

I cancelled my NCR 18650B order and ordered a single 18650GA... I wonder if it will also make a difference in my SC62w?


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 11, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> I cancelled my NCR 18650B order and ordered a single 18650GA... I wonder if it will also make a difference in my SC62w?




You won't know for sure until you try!

Theory says it should not make much of a difference. The *ZebraLight SC62w* has a well-regulated buck/boost driver. I think it pulls around 3 amps to get to 930 lumens in turbo mode. Both the NCR18650B and the NCR18650GA can easily provide that, so the performance of these batteries will be similar.

The reason that battery type makes such a big difference in the *BLF A6 Special Edition* is because it is not well-regulated. By design, its FET+1 driver goes into direct drive for turbo mode.


----------



## seasam (Nov 11, 2015)

If we're worried about price, let me ratchet this down a bit.

I paid $25 each for two lights when they were first released. Neither worked on arrival. After troubleshooting, it turns out one must be tightened much more on the tail cap than normal to function. The other light has an issue with the tail cap, something about the dimensions are off not allowing proper contact, so it does not work at all. And before anyone starts with troubleshooting - I did and I'm not getting into that here - I didn't buy this light to tinker. I have parts for that.

I have gone back and forth with Banggood support for a few months - they did send me new tubes which I guess was the fix for the common over tightening issue. But this did not work for me - the "new" tubes seemed to same length. I am still waiting on a replacement tail cap to fix the issue with my one light. The other light I just tighten the tail cap really tight.

Now, I will say that Banggood has been fine so far working with me on this issue. 

My problem is with the quality control and general quality from Manker. I was underwhelmed with the fit and finish when I received these lights (not to mention they didn't work at first), and I would much rather spend my money on a Convoy host light, for example. 

I do not feel these are a good buy for the money even at $25, but if you are really into getting a "good deal" by all means go for it. This is not to mention the poor soldering jobs on these drivers, and don't take the top off or you might dedeome the light.. etc.

I'm not here to argue points on this, or looking for troubleshooting advice. Just expressing a different opinion for those interested in this light.

If you really want a good cheap awesome light like this, buy one from the guy that sells this stuff in the US all assembled. I feel like that is actually a good buy, even if it costs you more like $35.


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## markr6 (Nov 11, 2015)

I just lost the ability to go backwards in the UI for some reason. I took the battery out and put it back in which fixed it.


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## uofaengr (Nov 11, 2015)

markr6 said:


> I just lost the ability to go backwards in the UI for some reason. I took the battery out and put it back in which fixed it.


Was it going forward or going back to moonlight?


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## markr6 (Nov 11, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> Was it going forward or going back to moonlight?



A quick press would go forward, but a long press would just keep it in moon instead of the usual turbo>strobe>battery check>bike strobe.

The two times it did this was after the 45-second stepdown kicked in when using turbo.

Yup, I just tried it again. The turbo stepdown kills it temporarily. This time I just let it sit off for a minute and it started working again. I thought maybe it had to to with overheat protection, but I can go forward to turbo, just not back. So that's not it.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 11, 2015)

Mark... you convinced me to order one of these to play with (and potentially gift)... and now you're making me re-think it...


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## markr6 (Nov 11, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> Mark... you convinced me to order one of these to play with (and potentially gift)... and now you're making me re-think it...



No I say go for it!

Is toykeeper on CPF? I would be interested to see if he's seen this before.

I tried it again after the stepdown. Same thing. Waited 10 seconds, no luck. But 10 more seconds and it's back to normal.


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## akhyar (Nov 11, 2015)

markr6 said:


> No I say go for it!
> 
> Is toykeeper on CPF? I would be interested to see if he's seen this before.
> 
> I tried it again after the stepdown. Same thing. Waited 10 seconds, no luck. But 10 more seconds and it's back to normal.



Btw, Toykeeper is a lady.
Not sure is she's in CPF though


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## uofaengr (Nov 11, 2015)

Ok I was just wondering if you were doing the really long press which puts it back in moonlight on any mode. 

I just tried to replicate this, and mine does the same after the turbo step-down. It just stays in moon. It'll go backwards between modes 7 through 1 though. It'll go forwards to mode 7 fine. After several seconds of attempting to go backwards it finally went from moon to turbo. I went back to moon and tried again to go to turbo but took many tries to get into turbo. So yeah, maybe a heat thing?

But honestly, I would not repeatedly try to go to turbo anyway. It's truly a burst mode for me because I'm afraid I'd fry something. The 800-900 lumen mode 6 will do pretty dang good for more extended use and plenty bright.


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## uofaengr (Nov 11, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> Mark... you convinced me to order one of these to play with (and potentially gift)... and now you're making me re-think it...


I wouldn't let this little glitch (unless it's intentional) stop you from a great light that can be had for about the cost of a lunch for 2 at Chipotle. I don't know that it's really a bad thing that the UI does this IMO..


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## markr6 (Nov 11, 2015)

akhyar said:


> Btw, Toykeeper is a lady.
> Not sure is she's in CPF though



Ok good to know!

And I agree with any comments about this not being a big deal. If you MUST go right back into turbo you can go forward. I only found it because it wanted to do the battery check after turbo to see how crazy it is on the battery. I guess I'll do that the proper way with a DMM now


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## holygeez03 (Nov 11, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> I wouldn't let this little glitch (unless it's intentional) stop you from a great light that can be had for about the cost of a lunch for 2 at Chipotle. I don't know that it's really a bad thing that the UI does this IMO..




You must buy those overpriced alcoholic beverages and get lots of extra guac?


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## Camo5 (Nov 11, 2015)

I got the 3500 unprotected 10A ga for $7.23 on banggood for it. On turbo, it nearly burns my cheek, whatever it is pulling, that's enough for me.
Here is the link to it http://m.banggood.com/1pcs-Sanyo-NC...0A-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery-p-984325.html


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## holygeez03 (Nov 11, 2015)

How did you get 20% off?


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## Camo5 (Nov 11, 2015)

I chose to not pay for tracking


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## uofaengr (Nov 11, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> You must buy those overpriced alcoholic beverages and get lots of extra guac?


ALL THE GUAC


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## Flashy808 (Nov 11, 2015)

Grr I don't know whether to buy one of these or get a known quality brand....?


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## uofaengr (Nov 11, 2015)

Tried the moon to turbo thing again while I was finishing draining my 25R to 3.7V, and I could get it to go into turbo from moon directly after the step-down every time. This makes me think it's indeed a heat related thing since by my estimation using the lux meter, turbo outputs roughly 300 lumens less at this voltage compared to fully charged so not as much heat is generated. Noticeable since the head wasn't even that hot upon step-down compared to a fully charged battery which is scorching hot.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 11, 2015)

Flashy808... Depends... will this be your only or main light? If so, probably not the best idea... will this be a fun "toy" to mess around with? Then maybe give it a try...


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## lichan (Nov 11, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> Tried the moon to turbo thing again while I was finishing draining my 25R to 3.7V, and I could get it to go into turbo from moon directly after the step-down every time. This makes me think it's indeed a heat related thing since by my estimation using the lux meter, turbo outputs roughly 300 lumens less at this voltage compared to fully charged so not as much heat is generated. Noticeable since the head wasn't even that hot upon step-down compared to a fully charged battery which is scorching hot.



It's a 45 second run on turbo followed by a drop to the next lower level. You can immediately tap it back up to turbo.


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## Flashy808 (Nov 12, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> Flashy808... Depends... will this be your only or main light? If so, probably not the best idea... will this be a fun "toy" to mess around with? Then maybe give it a try...



Hmm yeah good point. Maybe I should save the money for something better instead of a "for fun" light. Thanks. 

Now to find the right light....


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 12, 2015)

markr6 said:


> A quick press would go forward, but a long press would just keep it in moon instead of the usual turbo>strobe>battery check>bike strobe.
> 
> The two times it did this was after the 45-second stepdown kicked in when using turbo.
> 
> Yup, I just tried it again. The turbo stepdown kills it temporarily. This time I just let it sit off for a minute and it started working again. I thought maybe it had to to with overheat protection, but I can go forward to turbo, just not back. So that's not it.



I have not been able to duplicate this behavior. 

Which of the two turbo modes were you in? Both have the same output, but the action of a medium press is different. In one, a medium press steps down to the next lower level. In the other, a medium press activates strobe. 

How did you get from turbo to moonlight? Forward or backward?

Starting from off, please list the exact sequence you used to create this circumstance. I will try to duplicate it.

Thanks.


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## markr6 (Nov 12, 2015)

Not sure it matters but mine is set to no memory, 4 mode. I guess that means I don't have "moonlight", but instead low. Shouldn't matter but maybe it does?

Using a naked NCR18650GA.

1. Turn light on with full click (now in low)
2. 3 half presses to get cycle to turbo
3. Let it sit for 45 seconds, watch it step down, wait a few seconds
4. Long half press to reverse cycle. It will go down to low (or first mode) but not any further (NO turbo>strobe>batt check>bike mode)
5. Turn light off for a bit, say, 10 seconds. Still won't reverse into special modes.
6. Wait another 10 seconds and everything works fine.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 12, 2015)

What makes it naked? Just unprotected?


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## holygeez03 (Nov 12, 2015)

Flashy... I assume you have looked at the SC62w? If someone asked me for the single most useful light for EDC and general purpose... I (and tons of others) would recommend that... small size, plenty of lumens, useful beam profile, tons of lower modes, good runtimes, and good tint/temp.


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## markr6 (Nov 12, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> What makes it naked? Just unprotected?



Unprotected



holygeez03 said:


> Flashy... I assume you have looked at the SC62w? If someone asked me for the single most useful light for EDC and general purpose... I (and tons of others) would recommend that... small size, plenty of lumens, useful beam profile, tons of lower modes, good runtimes, and good tint/temp.



Definitely...that's a winner! I couldn't resist this A6 for the price though.


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## xzel87 (Nov 12, 2015)

Guys, whatever you do, just don't submerge it in water for any period, waterproofing isn't spot on for my unit so just a heads up. It's still my FAVOURITE edc btw. 

For what it's worth, I dropped it from over 2M height and it only got little spots of chipped anodisation.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 12, 2015)

markr6 said:


> Not sure it matters but mine is set to no memory, 4 mode. I guess that means I don't have "moonlight", but instead low. Shouldn't matter but maybe it does?
> 
> Using a naked NCR18650GA.
> 
> ...



Thanks, Mark.

I tested one of my A6 flashlights. It has the same bug!

I repeated the test, but entered Turbo mode directly from low. Same result. I also repeated the test in the mode group with 7 output levels. Same result.

One thing that seems odd is that the long half press in your step 4 seems to jump directly to low (4 modes) or moonlight (7 modes). I expected it to simply go to the next lower level. In the mode group with 4 modes, for instance, the lowest mode is level 1 and the highest mode is level 4. After the 45-second timeout in level 4, the light steps down to level 3. From there, a long half-press should go to level 2, not level 1.


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## cccpull (Nov 12, 2015)

markr6 said:


> I didn't think to check that yet. I'll try it soon and see what I get...


Were you able to check the tail cap current?


----------



## markr6 (Nov 12, 2015)

cccpull said:


> Were you able to check the tail cap current?



Ahh! I knew I was going to forget that. I'll try to get that today since I'm really curious to see what I'm getting on turbo with an NCR18650GA


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## snowlover91 (Nov 12, 2015)

Judging by the pics I've seen of the LED star in this light, be careful when running this in turbo or high mode not to drop it. The solder connection posted looks like a "cold solder joint" to me which means with time it can crack and/or disconnect when run at one of the highest modes when dropped. I could be wrong but that's what it looks like from my limited experience. I wonder if there is a way to fix the UI bug some are experiencing?


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 12, 2015)

snowlover91 said:


> Judging by the pics I've seen of the LED star in this light, be careful when running this in turbo or high mode not to drop it.



A related caution: After the A6 heats up in turbo mode, you should let it cool down before trying to remove the bezel. The dome gets soft when heated, so it is easy to accidentally slice it or dedome it when hot. My advice is not to remove the bezel unless you have a good reason. Don't do it just to look!



snowlover91 said:


> I wonder if there is a way to fix the UI bug some are experiencing?



Short of flashing new firmware, my guess is that there is no fix. I posted a message about this at BLF. ToyKeeper, the author of the firmware, will probably post a reply at BLF later. In practice, this does not even rise to the level of inconvenience.


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## snowlover91 (Nov 12, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> A related caution: After the A6 heats up in turbo mode, you should let it cool down before trying to remove the bezel. The dome gets soft when heated, so it is easy to accidentally slice it or dedome it when hot. My advice is not to remove the bezel unless you have a good reason. Don't do it just to look!



I certainly agree not to take it off after using it in turbo. I was referencing how the pics I've seen look like cold solder joints and if dropped while in turbo could cause a contact to pop off fairly easy. With time these solder joints can also crack. But I'm not too experienced with soldering so I could be wrong on that also.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 12, 2015)

As of now, it's a ~$27 light... and should be treated as such.


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## markr6 (Nov 12, 2015)

I just tried the turbo>stepdown>reverse UI thing again, and it worked fine. Weird. Just a little bug sometimes and not something I find to be a problem.


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## gunga (Nov 12, 2015)

A note. The capacitors on this circuit are affected by heat. After running on turbo a bit, the heat affects the timing of the reverse click (I think it shortens the interval but can't remember). This could Explain the odd behaviour.


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## uofaengr (Nov 12, 2015)

markr6 said:


> I just tried the turbo>stepdown>reverse UI thing again, and it worked fine. Weird. Just a little bug sometimes and not something I find to be a problem.


Curious what your battery voltage was at that point?


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## markr6 (Nov 12, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> Curious what your battery voltage was at that point?




I didn't check, but I'm getting 3 flashes


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## scs (Nov 12, 2015)

I wonder whether the BLF X6 v2 and X5 will inherit these quirks?


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## TheShadowGuy (Nov 12, 2015)

I'm strongly considering one of these as my first 18650 light. As such, a couple questions:
1. If I don't plan on using turbo at all, would an 18650 like the Keeppower 3400 mAh protected cell work fine?
2. Does anyone have a tint comparison between the 3D and 5A bins in this light, or any issues with the 5A tint?

Edit: Ha, my 100th post is about buying my first 18650 light. lovecpf


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## markr6 (Nov 12, 2015)

TheShadowGuy said:


> I'm strongly considering one of these as my first 18650 light. As such, a couple questions:
> 1. If I don't plan on using turbo at all, would an 18650 like the Keeppower 3400 mAh protected cell work fine?
> 2. Does anyone have a tint comparison between the 3D and 5A bins in this light, or any issues with the 5A tint?
> 
> Edit: Ha, my 100th post is about buying my first 18650 light. lovecpf



1. Totally fine. You may not even be able to tell the difference in output unless you have two side by side.
2. I would have trouble believing anyone that didn't like the 3D tint. It's perfect IMO. There is a comparison somewhere, I think from a german flashlight site. Actually, I won't even bother looking for it since I believe it's VERY far off from representing the actual CCT. Sorry


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## uofaengr (Nov 12, 2015)

markr6 said:


> I didn't check, but I'm getting 3 flashes


So 3.8-4.0V...maybe just enough to reduce output enough to not create quite as much heat? I didn't have the glitch with a battery at 3.75V.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 12, 2015)

ShadowGuy... there are comparisons out there, but like Mark said it may not be a great representation... and there is always a decent amount of variation between LED's anyway... if you don't already have "neutral" emitters, either tint/temp will probably make you happy. I have been buying only neutral/warm lights for years, so I'm a little picky.

I went for the non-anodized 5A tint due to the warmer temp (4000k), which I prefer and generally produce a higher CRI... also, based on the Cree color chart, it appears that the 3D could have a little bit of green in it, if you lose the tint lottery... the 5A appears that it should stay away from that... but I will find out when it arrives. If I completely lose the tint lottery, it could be a little purple...

http://flashlightwiki.com/images/c/cb/Ansi-white.jpg


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## Flashy808 (Nov 12, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> Flashy... I assume you have looked at the SC62w? If someone asked me for the single most useful light for EDC and general purpose... I (and tons of others) would recommend that... small size, plenty of lumens, useful beam profile, tons of lower modes, good runtimes, and good tint/temp.



Yeah I definitely have considered it but it is currently too expensive.... that's why I thought about the A6 . But over time, I will definitely get a ZL . & maybe I will also wait for the SC63 release.......


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## Tixx (Nov 12, 2015)

No issues with 5a. It is actually quite impressive.


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## Tixx (Nov 12, 2015)

Flashy808 said:


> Yeah I definitely have considered it but it is currently too expensive.... that's why I thought about the A6 . But over time, I will definitely get a ZL . & maybe I will also wait for the SC63 release.......


Then just wait until you have the funds for the ZL. Buy this and you are now that much further from the ZL.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 12, 2015)

markr6 said:


> Not sure it matters but mine is set to no memory, 4 mode. I guess that means I don't have "moonlight", but instead low. Shouldn't matter but maybe it does?
> 
> Using a naked NCR18650GA.
> 
> ...



I have a complete explanation for this now. It has to do with the hardware circuit that is used to define the timings for a medium half-press and a long half-press. I believe there is a capacitor or RC circuit that is used for that. When the timing circuit gets hot, as it will in turbo mode, the timings go haywire. Usually, we have:

- Med tap: Do a medium (0.5s to 1.5s) half-press to go backward to 
the previous mode.

- Long tap: Do a long (longer than 1.5s) half-press to reset to the 
first mode (if mode memory is turned off).

When the circuit gets hot, the timings are compressed. This makes it so your medium half-presses look like long half-presses. The A6 then does what it is supposed to do when it sees a long half-press. It goes back to low mode. When the A6 cools off, the medium half-press behaves as it should.

As your battery gets depleted, turbo mode will run a bit lower. When the battery gets low enough, turbo won't heat up the light enough to make the timings go wonky. That may explain why you did not get this issue the last time you checked.


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## gunga (Nov 12, 2015)

Didn't I just say that in post 146? It's the tolerances of the circuit capacitors. They act differently with heat.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 13, 2015)

gunga said:


> Didn't I just say that in post 146? It's the tolerances of the circuit capacitors. They act differently with heat.




Sure 'nuff. All I have done is flesh out the details.


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## gunga (Nov 13, 2015)

Yeah. Thanks for that. Good details.


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## markr6 (Nov 13, 2015)

NCR18650GA, 3D tint, turbo = ~*2.85A* at the tail cap. It bounced around a little between 2.75 and 2.88. Not what I expected at all.


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## uofaengr (Nov 13, 2015)

Read over at BLF someone was reading 5.0A with the non-anodized version and 4.8A with the anodized versions.


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## cccpull (Nov 13, 2015)

markr6 said:


> NCR18650GA, 3D tint, turbo = ~*2.85A* at the tail cap. It bounced around a little between 2.75 and 2.88. Not what I expected at all.



Same here.:thinking: Maybe we need a higher drain battery.


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## markr6 (Nov 13, 2015)

cccpull said:


> Same here.:thinking: Maybe we need a higher drain battery.



That would take the runtime down to 19 minutes from 25 minutes 

Just kidding...but not really


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 13, 2015)

markr6 said:


> NCR18650GA, 3D tint, turbo = ~*2.85A* at the tail cap. It bounced around a little between 2.75 and 2.88. Not what I expected at all.




I have not measured current draw myself. It is my guess, however, that this is one of those flashlights where placing an ammeter in series with your battery won't give the best results. HKJ describes some alternative measuring techniques here.

I am using the *Samsung 30Q* in my *BLF A6 Special Edition*.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 13, 2015)

KIL... can you test your A6 and 30Q with a proper technique and see if it pulls 5.0A? I just bought a GA specifically for this light... I would hope it's not a limiting factor... as that would completely defeat the purpose of this "hot rod" light.

Can someone out there use one of HKJ's techniques with the A6 and a GA cell?


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## holygeez03 (Nov 13, 2015)

Mark... how quickly does your A6 get hot... as in uncomfortable to hold... with the GA?

If it's getting that hot, relatively quick.. I'm not even going to consider a higher drain battery... seems unsafe.


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## markr6 (Nov 13, 2015)

Maybe there's a proper way, but what about the 298 other threads where people are reporting tailcap measurements on other lights with a DMM and taking those values as "all there is"?



holygeez03 said:


> Mark... how quickly does your A6 get hot... as in uncomfortable to hold... with the GA?
> 
> If it's getting that hot, relatively quick.. I'm not even going to consider a higher drain battery... seems unsafe.



The head gets pretty hot, but not too hot before the stepdown occurs. I think it's a very well thought out stepdown. You can definitely still hold the head at the 45 second mark no problem.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 13, 2015)

Maybe the technique becomes more important at higher current draws?

If there is a cell that allows more current... wouldn't the step-down occur even sooner... so that would kind of cancel out the additional lumens achieved?


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## markr6 (Nov 13, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> Maybe the technique becomes more important at higher current draws?
> 
> If there is a cell that allows more current... wouldn't the step-down occur even sooner... so that would kind of cancel out the additional lumens achieved?



I believe it's strictly based on a timed 45 seconds regardless of the cell. High mode is plenty bright. Turbo is just a "look what I can do" mode. Any more and I'd be a little afraid!


----------



## uofaengr (Nov 13, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> KIL... can you test your A6 and 30Q with a proper technique and see if it pulls 5.0A? I just bought a GA specifically for this light... I would hope it's not a limiting factor... as that would completely defeat the purpose of this "hot rod" light.
> 
> Can someone out there use one of HKJ's techniques with the A6 and a GA cell?


Compared all modes with a fully charged Samsung 25R and the output was no more than an unprotected NCR18650GA. You're fine. 

The clear winner in output was a EVVA protected NCR18650GA (~100 lux more on modes 5-7, scaled to ZL lumens), but I don't know if this particular battery is just an anomaly because it puts out considerably higher than the unprotected version in some other lights too. Don't have a second one to compare. Enough to notice visually? Very slightly.


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## Tixx (Nov 13, 2015)

Not sure if posted here, but the 18350 tubes are available! Just placed my order.


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## cccpull (Nov 13, 2015)

So who else is getting the lowly 2.8 amp at the tail cap, besides markr6 and me?:thumbsdow
Has anybody figured out what the problem is?


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 13, 2015)

I don't have an ammeter myself. Above I suggested that putting a meter in series with the battery might not be the best way to measure current on the *BLF A6 Special Edition*. The reason for that is because the A6 uses a FET+1 driver. In turbo mode, the internal resistance of the battery is a major factor limiting current. Any additional resistance, such as a meter, that is placed in series with the battery, will have an effect.

One of the early samples of the A6 was tested with a variety of batteries, including the NCR18650B. This was a stock A6, without the spring-bypass. The "B" pulled 4.30 amps in this test.

Short Tube Available / O-ring Question
The short tubes are now available, but there is still a question about O-rings. The initial report is that O-rings are not included with the short tubes. The BLF member in charge of the group buy for the short tubes is now checking with Banggood. It may be that an arrangement can be made to have O-rings included. This may or may not work out, but I am waiting to see what Banggood has to say before ordering a short tube for myself. 

Tubes are being sold for $2.50 USD with coupon. Clip is being sold extra for $2.68 USD (less 8% with coupon). Compare this with the projected cost of $4.50 for short tube with clip.


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## Camo5 (Nov 13, 2015)

TBH if the turbo is only pulling 2.8A with the GA, that is excellent news (runtime is important for me, and that's what I got for it) It's noticeably brighter than my olight s30R2 on turbo, even being the 5A tint. Multiple consecutive turbos don't really heat it up that much.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 14, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> KIL... can you test your A6 and 30Q with a proper technique and see if it pulls 5.0A? I just bought a GA specifically for this light... I would hope it's not a limiting factor... as that would completely defeat the purpose of this "hot rod" light.
> 
> Can someone out there use one of HKJ's techniques with the A6 and a GA cell?



Unfortunately, I do not have an ammeter. I expect, however, that you are getting over 4 amps. Dale measured the NCR18650B at 4.30 amps. There is every reason to expect the NCR18650GA to do better. 

I have not done the spring-bypass, so I doubt that I am doing much over 5 amps, if that.

Remember, your batteries have to be fresh-off-the-charger to reach these levels.


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## cccpull (Nov 14, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> Unfortunately, I do not have an ammeter. I expect, however, that you are getting over 4 amps. Dale measured the NCR18650B at 4.30 amps. There is every reason to expect the NCR18650GA to do better.
> 
> I have not done the spring-bypass, so I doubt that I am doing much over 5 amps, if that.
> 
> Remember, your batteries have to be fresh-off-the-charger to reach these levels.



I used the same battery (NCR1850GA) on a different light that is direct drive and it pulled 3.9 amps. So the battery shouldn't be the bottleneck. It's almost as if the light doesn't go into turbo.


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## fnsooner (Nov 14, 2015)

I am reading over four amps with most batteries that I have tested. I have the anodized 5A tint programmed to four mode, memory on. I also use overkill 10 gauge leads, on my multi-meter, that I made up a few years ago to do my tail cap readings.

I charged up my high drains and got a whopping 5.9 amps out of my LGICR18650HE4s and 5.41 out of my INR18650-HG2 cells. Coincidently, I just received two 3.0A single mode warm P60 drop-ins from int-outdoors yesterday. I checked the amp draw on both of them and read exactly 3.06 amps on both. So I feel pretty confident that my over 5 amp readings on the HG2 and HE4 batteries, in the A6, are accurate.

All of my high drain batteries were bought in sets of four, so I doubt I will use them in this light. Four amps is plenty for me.


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## TheShadowGuy (Nov 15, 2015)

I did end up ordering the 5A. My first 18650 light is in the mail. 
Worth noting: The coupon code didn't work for me, but the price was listed as $27. I made sure it was the right light before buying. It seems that it is on sale until later today- there is a countdown. I'm assuming the price will go up after that.


----------



## cccpull (Nov 15, 2015)

fnsooner said:


> I am reading over four amps with most batteries that I have tested. I have the anodized 5A tint programmed to four mode, memory on. I also use overkill 10 gauge leads, on my multi-meter, that I made up a few years ago to do my tail cap readings.
> 
> I charged up my high drains and got a whopping 5.9 amps out of my LGICR18650HE4s and 5.41 out of my INR18650-HG2 cells. Coincidently, I just received two 3.0A single mode warm P60 drop-ins from int-outdoors yesterday. I checked the amp draw on both of them and read exactly 3.06 amps on both. So I feel pretty confident that my over 5 amp readings on the HG2 and HE4 batteries, in the A6, are accurate.
> 
> All of my high drain batteries were bought in sets of four, so I doubt I will use them in this light. Four amps is plenty for me.



I made a couple of 12 gauge short leads and got 3.2 amp draw with the NCR1850GA on the BLF A6 on "Turbo", but I also used the same battery(GA) on 2 other direct drive lights I have and they both pulled 4.75 amps. It almost seems as if the light is not going into "Turbo/direct drive".


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## fnsooner (Nov 16, 2015)

cccpull said:


> I made a couple of 12 gauge short leads and got 3.2 amp draw with the NCR1850GA on the BLF A6 on "Turbo", but I also used the same battery(GA) on 2 other direct drive lights I have and they both pulled 4.75 amps. It almost seems as if the light is not going into "Turbo/direct drive".



Yeah, it sounds like your flashlight is underperforming in turbo. What mode group are you in? If for example, you are in the four mode grouping, can you cycle through four distinct output levels? Have you tried toggling to the opposite mode group than what you are using to see if turbo shows up? Try putting it in memory mode or vice versa and see if turbo shows up.


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## cccpull (Nov 16, 2015)

fnsooner said:


> Yeah, it sounds like your flashlight is underperforming in turbo. What mode group are you in? If for example, you are in the four mode grouping, can you cycle through four distinct output levels? Have you tried toggling to the opposite mode group than what you are using to see if turbo shows up? Try putting it in memory mode or vice versa and see if turbo shows up.


I've done everything you mentioned, but you might be right on the suggestion of some "V1s" still circulating. I wonder if there's a fix.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 16, 2015)

Aw man... now I will forever wonder if my A6 is achieving proper "turbo" mode...


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## dc38 (Nov 16, 2015)

Hi all just an addendum to the "mode group switching". After 15 presses, my a6 will have two sets of slow double flashes. The first two flashes are whatever memory state you are in, with the first of the two being 4 mode, and the 2nd one being 7 mode. The second set of flashes (3 and 4) are the other memory mode...for me, it is memory on. 

15 soft taps-> programming
Flash1(no memory 4 mode), flash2(no memory 7 mode)

Pause

Flash3(memory on 4mode), flash4(memory on 7 mode)

Switch off immediately after whichever flash corresponds for that mode group, have to be quick between flashes.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 18, 2015)

Did the discount code end for the non-ano version?


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 18, 2015)

dc38 said:


> Hi all just an addendum to the "mode group switching". After 15 presses, my a6 will have two sets of slow double flashes. The first two flashes are whatever memory state you are in, with the first of the two being 4 mode, and the 2nd one being 7 mode. The second set of flashes (3 and 4) are the other memory mode...for me, it is memory on.
> 
> 15 soft taps-> programming
> Flash1(no memory 4 mode), flash2(no memory 7 mode)
> ...



This is not quite correct.

In programming mode, there are two settings you can toggle. The first toggles the mode group back and forth between 7 modes and 4 modes. The second toggles mode memory on and off.

To toggle between 7 and 4 modes, first enter programming mode, and then turn off your flashlight _in between_ the first and second flash. If you are a little late, that is okay, too. Turning off after the second flash will also toggle between 7 modes and 4.

To toggle mode memory off and on, first enter programming mode, and then turn off your flashlight _in between_ the third and fourth flash. Once again, if you are a little late, that is okay. 

Incidentally, even though the instructions say 15 quick half-presses is all you need to enter programming mode, I find that 16 is often better. Sometimes, after I do 15, my flashlight does not enter programming mode.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 18, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> Aw man... now I will forever wonder if my A6 is achieving proper "turbo" mode...




Can you see a distinct difference in output on each of the seven levels? You should.

One symptom of a bad driver that has been reported is that output on certain pairs of modes is identical.


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## markr6 (Nov 19, 2015)

NCR18650GA 4.18v off the charger = 3.23A at the tail.

No worries though, it's plenty brighter than the high mode.


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## markr6 (Nov 20, 2015)

I should have bought two of these when they were cheap. Such a nice light!


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## uofaengr (Nov 20, 2015)

Don't know what they're going for now, but my 2nd, a non-anodized for $27, should be here tomorrow or Monday. [emoji4]


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## D6859 (Nov 20, 2015)

markr6 said:


> I should have bought two of these when they were cheap. Such a nice light!



See mhanlen1's review of this flashlight and note the coupon code for discount in description. Works for me and I can have the light for 29.90$. I hope the coupon code still works when I get my tax refund...


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## centaurus3200 (Nov 20, 2015)

You're using an NCR18650GA battery, right? Aren't those protected?

From my rudimentary understanding, you have two things going against you. 1. Is the PCB, 2. It's not a high drain battery. And to a lesser degree, 3. No spring bypass mods.

Try an lg hg2 or Samsung 30q. Either of those should give the light the swift kick in the a$$ ;-)

For me, I'm using hg2. Turbo is brighter than high2, and it certainly heats up the head quickly... But to see a "holy crap" difference, you probably need to bypass the springs. The stock springs are much softer than in my convoy lights. 

Should give you nearly another amp just with the bypass. Still need to use high drain batteries to maximize the mid from my understanding.

Robby



cccpull said:


> I've done everything you mentioned, but you might be right on the suggestion of some "V1s" still circulating. I wonder if there's a fix.


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## cccpull (Nov 20, 2015)

centaurus3200 said:


> You're using an NCR18650GA battery, right? Aren't those protected?
> 
> From my rudimentary understanding, you have two things going against you. 1. Is the PCB, 2. It's not a high drain battery. And to a lesser degree, 3. No spring bypass mods.
> 
> ...



The battery is not protected, it has max continues drain of 10 amps and it pulled 4.75 amps on 2 other DD lights I have. Others without the springs bypassed pull over 4 amps. If I do the springs I'm just going to go over all the soldering points. BTW, tomorrow I receive the Samsung 30q and I'll test it.


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## Camo5 (Nov 21, 2015)

I tried an 18650B in it to see how it performed, and without any measurement tools, it was ever so slightly dimmer than the turbo using the GA. This is fine, as two turbos in a row with the GA nearly burns my hands.


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## dc38 (Nov 21, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> This is not quite correct.
> 
> In programming mode, there are two settings you can toggle. The first toggles the mode group back and forth between 7 modes and 4 modes. The second toggles mode memory on and off.
> 
> ...



Incidentally, I described how MINE works. The first set of double blinks is whatever current memory groupset the light is in, the second groupset is the other. For my light, the first and second set of double blinks changes depending on which set of memory I have it programmed to.


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## dc38 (Nov 21, 2015)

Double post glitch?


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## uofaengr (Nov 21, 2015)

Switched over to the 4 mode group and liking it a lot, and for now won't be returning to 7 mode. The 2nd mode is very useful at an estimated 140-150 lumens or so. If you can live without moonlight, (which I like having in lights though I rarely use it) the 4 mode is spaced quite nicely. I love having the option to choose though, and if I found myself in a power outage I can switch to 7 mode for a wider range of low modes. It's been my most used light since I got it. Simply love it. 

The battery checker doesn't seem to be entirely accurate on my version. I measured 4.06v on my battery though I only get 3 flashes instead of 4. 

Just noticed my non-anodized is out for delivery a day early as we speak! Something to look forward to when I get off work!


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## markr6 (Nov 21, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> Switched over to the 4 mode group and liking it a lot, and for now won't be returning to 7 mode. The 2nd mode is very useful at an estimated 140-150 lumens or so. If you can live without moonlight, (which I like having in lights though I rarely use it) the 4 mode is spaced quite nicely. I love having the option to choose though, and if I found myself in a power outage I can switch to 7 mode for a wider range of low modes. It's been my most used light since I got it. Simply love it.



Yeah I like the 4 mode.

I'm also fine with my NCR18650GA unprotected and without messing with spring mods. As already mentioned, turbo is already a hand burner. I don't like "project" lights, throwing out 110% for the first 15 seconds if measured from a cell hot off the charger in perfect conditions. Not for me. As is, this light is very practical and fun to use.


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## uofaengr (Nov 22, 2015)

Ok so I received the non-anodized yesterday, and it's definitely a 5A. So pretty much everyone I've heard lately ordering non-anodized in 3D is getting 5A. However, it could be worse and be the 6500K tint. I guess it gives me a little variation, and the tint isn't horrible by any means, still pleasant, but side by side the 3D does come across more as a pure white as expected. 5A sort of reminds me of a Nichia 219a tint maybe? 

The emitter is better centered than my black one, and the switch is a bit crisper though sometimes when I turn it off I feel like a double click inside the switch. Doesn't seem to affect function. The finish is rough however and zero lube on the threads, but I plan on taking the Dremel and Flitz to it so I will post some pics when that is complete.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 22, 2015)

Can you post a beamshot comparison of the 3D and 5A? I received my "non-ano 5A" yesterday and the temp is not as warm as I expected... I have a feeling I received a 5000K 3D but I don't have any other A6's to compare.

Also, are the 5A and 3D emitters distinguishable when the light is not on? If so, can you take a picture of the emitters?


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## ven (Nov 22, 2015)

Interesting what is said about the naked A6 , i have one and it is certainly warmer than 4800-5000k. If i was to guess i would say 4200-4500k tops. I like the tint so no issues there,but when compared to other neutral lights its noticeably warmer and have wondered if it is 5A and not 3D.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 22, 2015)

Here is what they are supposed to resemble...

3D Tint:










5A Tint:







The photos are obviously not mine... I feel like the 5A that I ordered is much closer to the 3D photo above, but I will do some more testing when I get the chance.


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## uofaengr (Nov 22, 2015)

I will try my best to take comparison shots when I get home, but all I have is a smartphone camera and afraid they won't turn out accurately. I describe the 5A as "incandescent-ish". What's funny is I recently moved into my new house...and there's no white walls! Lol. So I will have to do white ceiling hunting instead. 

I'd say my non-anodized is definitely 4200-4400K. It reminds me of the warmth of my SC52w but without the green...sort of tannish. If I took a wild guess on my black version, I'd say 4800K maybe? Against a white surface it just looks white with no yellow or tan.


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## Tixx (Nov 22, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> Here is what they are supposed to resemble...
> 
> 3D Tint:
> 
> ...


All 3 of my 5As look like the 3D pictures.


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## uofaengr (Nov 22, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> Can you post a beamshot comparison of the 3D and 5A? I received my "non-ano 5A" yesterday and the temp is not as warm as I expected... I have a feeling I received a 5000K 3D but I don't have any other A6's to compare.
> 
> Also, are the 5A and 3D emitters distinguishable when the light is not on? If so, can you take a picture of the emitters?



I tried to look at the emitters to see if I could tell a difference and I couldn't. I'll try and take a pic of this as well when I get home. I only have the black 3D with me right now. 



ven said:


> Interesting what is said about the naked A6 , i have one and it is certainly warmer than 4800-5000k. If i was to guess i would say 4200-4500k tops. I like the tint so no issues there,but when compared to other neutral lights its noticeably warmer and have wondered if it is 5A and not 3D.



I was working on installing LEDs in my safe last night so I didn't spend a lot of time comparing tints, but I use my Thrunite Archer 2A V2 NW as a basement light, and in comparison, the assumed 5A A6 was warmer. I will do some more comparison later, and want to test the output of this one relative to my 3D also.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 22, 2015)

I would say my non-ano 5A also looks very close to the 3D tint in the photo above... yellow spot with a purple-ish spill... it's a very nice neutral emitter, but definitely not "warm". In fact, I would say it matches very closely with mt ZL SC62w.


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## uofaengr (Nov 22, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> I would say my non-ano 5A also looks very close to the 3D tint in the photo above... yellow spot with a purple-ish spill... it's a very nice neutral emitter, but definitely not "warm". In fact, I would say it matches very closely with mt ZL SC62w.


I wouldn't exactly say my 5A is warm. It's neutral, but just warmer than my 3D. Also, I have a SC52w and SC62w with the exact same emitter and they look nothing alike. The SC52w appears to be right around the advertised 4400K while the SC62w appears to be 3D-ish...very white.


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## dc38 (Nov 22, 2015)

The warmest of the three tint (th one i got) seems to be hitting right around 3700k


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## holygeez03 (Nov 22, 2015)

I don't necessarily have a problem with the temp/tint I received... if it had just been advertised as "neutral", I would be completely fine with it... but since it was specifically listed as 5A/4000K/warm, I was hoping for something a little more towards the rosy warm spectrum and hopefully with a higher CRI... the fact that it basically matches my SC62w is impressive for a budget light.


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## fnsooner (Nov 22, 2015)

My 5A A6 is quite a bit warmer than my SC62w. Probably 3700kish.

As a side note, I just recieved two warm P60 drop-ins and one is about 3500k and nice and toasty, and the other is probably over 4000k temp and kind of green. It is a lottery.


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## Jobeanie123 (Nov 23, 2015)

I got a little bit bored tonight and decided to clean up the pre-scratched, dull, and otherwise pretty disappointing finish on my non anodized light. Taking pictures of shiny things is difficult, but I tried my best: 






Pardon the dust. Apparently that microfiber cloth was not as clean as I thought! I should have thought to take before pictures so that I could show how dull it was in comparison. Scratches are going to stand out now more than ever, but at least it will still have an underlying shininess. It was particularly drab before. 

My tool arsenal is a bit lacking, so I actually used a headlight restoration kit on a drill and some "swirl mark remover compound" for my car. I'm pleased with the result considering the crudeness of my tool setup. I ought to find a proper metal polish, but I don't want to spend that much money just for this! It look _almost _perfectly mirror smooth at any sort of distance, but naturally that close photo shows off all of its imperfections. I like the way it feels better in my hand now, too – it's smooth, but not slippery. This was a fun little project. Maybe I'll work on it more some day.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 23, 2015)

^^ Very nice!


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## uofaengr (Nov 23, 2015)

Didn't have time to attempt any tint comparison shots yet, but was able to try to get some shots of the emitters. I can't see much difference, but could be missing something.


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## uofaengr (Nov 24, 2015)

Tried to do a little bit of polishing. Almost mirrored, but getting there. 





Finally got some crude comparison shots. The first is against a white ceiling. 





Now against a yellowish wall... 





And finally side by side on a white countertop... 





I think the tints are represented fairly accurately. The camera even seemed to pick up the slight hint of green I see in the 3D. Ok when comparing these against each other, I was wrong with what I said above--this is definitely a warm tint and not neutral. My SC52w even looks white in comparison side by side. Therefore I'd say my 5A is maybe in the 4000K range but still a pleasant tint. In a direct comparison against the 3D using the same battery and lux meter, it's not quite as bright on modes 2-4 or 4-7 as the 3D as expected. It's funny though what you don't notice about tint unless you have a direct comparison beside it. Battery checker on my 5A is a bit funky. Battery measures 4.11V and get 3 flashes. Hope this helps someone.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 24, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> Tried to do a little bit of polishing. Almost mirrored, but getting there.
> 
> I think the tints are represented fairly accurately.



The shine on that is looking good!

What white balance did you use for your beam shots? To my eye, the one on the left looks like more like my 3D than the one on the right. The one on the right appears to have a bluish tint that I associate with the 1A emitter. 

If you shot using auto white balance, your camera may have split the difference between the two emitters. That would put one on the cool side, and one on the warm side. 

If you shoot using a daylight preset, then I would expect neither to look blue. You should get warm and warmer. If you dial your white balance manually to 5000K (which is a bit lower than the daylight preset), I expect the 3D would look mostly white, with perhaps a hint of green in the spill, but not a bit of blue. Using the same 5000K setting, the 5A should look decidedly warmer than the 3D.


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## uofaengr (Nov 24, 2015)

My smartphone camera doesn't allow me to set the white balance that I know of (LG G3). If anyone knows of a free app that will let me do that, I'll try again. Yes, you're right, it probably did split the difference. If the 1A is 6500K, well I'm 99.9999999% sure my 3D is not that since in real life mine does not look blue at all. I've had my share of angry blue emitters, and honestly in real life it's just white light and zero blue and colors do not look washed out at all like with a cool tint. On low modes, there can be the slightest tinge of green and it's way less green than most any XM-L2 on low. I also have a light with a XP-L HI 5000K, and it's almost borderline cool, and my 3D is not as cool as it. My 5A just looks golden and very incandescent-ish. Kind of why I was hesitant to attempt tint comparison shots or beamshots in general because they don't turn out well for me and I've tried in the past. Hope this helps a little.

Either way, I can't really complain about the tints of either and coming from a Nichia fan. The 3D is very white to my liking, and the 5A is warm and comforting and reminds me of my old Maglite. It is probably a lottery, but for my tastes and preferences, I think I lucked out...even if I did want another 3D. Gonna EDC the 5A for a few days to see how I like the warm tint in everyday use.


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## TheShadowGuy (Nov 24, 2015)

I'm glad I ordered the 5A.  Now if only it would hurry up and get here...
My Note 4 I believe has a ton of settings in the camera for manual control. I'm pretty sure I can set the white balance and such, but I haven't messed with it. Once I get my A6 5A I'll see if I can do any good tint comparisons with some of my other lights.


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## holygeez03 (Nov 24, 2015)

I have a feeling that the pics above are not representative of the actual tint/temp... if so, the one on the right is horribly blue/green... which the poster reported is not what he sees with his eyes.


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## markr6 (Nov 24, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> I have a feeling that the pics above are not representative of the actual tint/temp... if so, the one on the right is horribly blue/green... which the poster reported is not what he sees with his eyes.



It looks nice and white on my screen. I pretty started ignoring photos online and I don't feel bad when people do the same for mine. Nothing against the person posting photos.

All I can say is, the 3D is PERFECT! Call it "Vanilla".

BTW, does anyone note the reset time on their A6? Mine seems to be around 3 seconds. A little longer than I would have liked, but probably necessary due to the long-press in the UI.


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## uofaengr (Nov 24, 2015)

Yeah I figured there wouldn't be much of a point trying to take comparisons with a basic camera so take those pics with a grain of salt and it doesn't mean yours will be exactly the same so I apologize for any confusion. I posted them more or less to show I believe I received a 5A instead of 3D and because someone asked. All I can say is that my previous warmest lights in comparison to each other were my SC52w and Prometheus Beta with Nichia 219a, both a nominal 4400K I think, and my 5A is warmer than those. The 3D is one of my whitest lights with a smidge of green on low and that sort of comes across in pics on my screen at least. Side by side, it's just barely warmer than a XP-L HI 5000K. I enjoyed the 5A tint very much at work today, and I think anyone would be pleased with either of these tints.

Update: after using this warm tint for a couple days, I'm really enjoying it to the point that I might want a custom light built with a 4000K emitter.


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## Tixx (Nov 27, 2015)

Got the 18350 tubes! What a light for the price! The 18350 bodies did not come with orings FYI.


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## TheShadowGuy (Dec 1, 2015)

I received the A6 and have been messing with it. The 5A tint took a bit to adjust to but it is gorgeous, and the better CRI than my cool white lights is quite noticeable. If I can find a good place to take some comparison shots between it and some of my other lights I will.


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## uofaengr (Dec 1, 2015)

TheShadowGuy said:


> I received the A6 and have been messing with it. The 5A tint took a bit to adjust to but it is gorgeous, and the better CRI than my cool white lights is quite noticeable. If I can find a good place to take some comparison shots between it and some of my other lights I will.


Eager to see your shots. I agree, the 5A is not as pretty on a white wall when it's side by side with a Nichia or something similar. When it's really pretty though is in general use, particularly outdoors and anywhere there's a lot of color...including looking at colored wiring. 

I got my 3D back out and tried to compare some more and my TN12 2014 NW has seemingly the exact same tint, a little green in the corona on low but whiter on higher modes with maybe a slight touch of violet(?) in the spill. Still loving these lights.


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## TheShadowGuy (Dec 1, 2015)

My TN4A NW has some purple in the spill, but I think it is from the strong AR coating Thrunite uses (the coating is easily visible on the glass on my TN4A and leaves a strong purple outline on the edge of the spill). I don't get much purple from the A6-5A. I don't have any Nichia lights (I plan on picking up the BLF 348 at some point as a cheap one to play around with) nor do I have a 3D or 1A, but I will probably take some side-by-side shots using daylight white balance and my Olight S1, Thrunite TN4A and Ti3 (both NW) this weekend hopefully.

Edit: Couldn't resist trying to take a couple shots here. All shots were taken on a Galaxy Note 4 with WB set to daylight and ISO 400. The lights used were the Olight S1 with a cool white XM-L2 emitter, and the A6 with the 5A tint XP-L.
Pic 1: Full power ceiling shot. I've worn down the battery quite a bit already on the A6, and the camera understates the brightness difference.





Pic 2: Moonlight modes on a white plastic lid.





Pic 3: Crossing the Beams. (medium modes)





Pic 4: Crossing the Beams: 5 Dollar Bill and White Copy Paper Edition.





I also tried taking pics using a chunk of amethyst, but they didn't turn out very well. 
I'll take some more pics later. Let me know what you think of these.


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## Tixx (Dec 1, 2015)

What really shows well is the 5. Sickly looking on the left. Great green color on right.


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## KeepingItLight (Dec 2, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> Recently, the sole seller of the A6 flashlight, Banggood, released its own version of the A6 under a different brand.



Here is the full quote, minus italics:

Recently, the sole seller of the A6 flashlight, Banggood, released its own version of the A6 under a different brand. Banggood might change the design later, but for now, the *Astrolux S1* is identical to the BLF A6. It's price is also the same, but with a difference. The Astrolux S1 includes a short tube that allows you to run the flashlight using an 18350 battery that is approximately half the size of a standard 18650 battery. Makes for a nice, compact flashlight. 

A similar short tube is available for the BLF A6, but is an option that is sold separately. So the Astrolux S1 is probably the better deal at this writing. 

Keep your eye on the prices of these two. They will vary over time. Be wary of any changes in design, as well.


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## holygeez03 (Dec 2, 2015)

TheShadowGuy's pictures are what I was expeting for the 5A tint... but not what I am experiencing... more convinced that I got a 3D tint... oh well.


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## Tixx (Dec 3, 2015)

holygeez03 said:


> TheShadowGuy's pictures are what I was expeting for the 5A tint... but not what I am experiencing... more convinced that I got a 3D tint... oh well.


Yeah, I'm seeing more a 3a. But all mine look the same and came in different orders a month apart.


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## TheShadowGuy (Dec 3, 2015)

I will say it doesn't look quite that warm until you compare it to another light side by side. I don't have a better camera nor a 3D tint to compare to, unfortunately. 
But if it is vastly more neutral (I'll get a comparison with a neutral TN4A up later) then it is probably 3D.


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## ven (Dec 3, 2015)

Mine is definitely warmer than 3D, no question and if i was told its a 5A i would believe it(not bothered tbh as i like some variety in tints)

This is the "3D" and nichia 219a, picture shows the nichia well, not the 3D , it does not look that colour (looks warmer)and effected by the nichia, however it shows thats its not around 4800-5000k and would put it closer to 4k


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## dc38 (Dec 3, 2015)

It is in the 3400-3700 range


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## markr6 (Dec 3, 2015)

Here's a quick iPhone shot of my 3D (left) and SC5w OP (right). Keep in mind my SC5w is PERFECT. Easily my best LED tint ever. It's better than any Nichia 219A or 219B I've ever had and I'm not exaggerating here! Of course a lower CRI, but overall I like it better than the Nichias.

The 3D is pretty darn close. Creamy, pure white. Both are less green in person, but I think that's even hard to see in the photo.


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## ven (Dec 3, 2015)

Thats sweet Well my conclusion is 5a then, when i compare to my convoy m2 which iirc is 4b(seems very warm though), the m2 is defo warmer than the a6.

Luckily although my preference is neutral-cool, i like warmer tints to break them up. So no big deal for me even though its not a preferred tint


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## holygeez03 (Dec 3, 2015)

If my memory serves correct... my A6 looks pretty close to markr6's photo... I'll likely be gifting the light to someone who has no concern for LED tint, so it's not a big deal, but I was excited to check out the 5A and potentially keep it since warmer temps are hard to find. 

I guess I'll continue using my Neutron 1A/14500 (v1) when I want a warm temp light... that thing looks like an incandescent!


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## uofaengr (Dec 9, 2015)

I was poking around on Mtn Electronics and saw something that looked familiar...the Convoy S6 host. Minus the knurled head and slightly different lanyard holes on the tail cap, it looks very similar to the A6. If anyone has an S6 host, would you say it's quite similar? Wouldn't mind seeing some side by side shots if possible to see length or diameter differences. 

I like the A6 host better than the Convoy S2, and it's crossed my mind that if I could find A6 hosts, I could get Richard to build me a higher quality light with the same driver and firmware and maybe Nichia 219c with a spring bypass or at the least would be 100% certain I'll receive the emitter I chose unlike the A6. If the S6 is close, I might go ahead and have one built (though I see the build and test service is down right now?).


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## markr6 (Dec 9, 2015)

Randy at PFlexPro sells an S2 with some nice options. Choose your emitter, reflector, stepdown time. He's been very helpful when answering my questions about his lights, and even some related questions about dropins. Everyone else I asked seemed to just brush me off with a quick canned response. I'm still can't seem to wrap my head around the drop-in stuff and hosts...too many variables and seems like a hack that may or may not work. But that's all for another thread...


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## uofaengr (Dec 9, 2015)

I'm sorry, I should have said the S3 host above instead of S2. Richard built me one of his S3 EDCs I've posted about on here, and it was customized from everything to my emitter (3xN219b), optic, amperage (up to 5.8A!), and UI and his communication and work are top notch. Im just not crazy about the host since the S3 is kinda slick. The A6 (and I'm hoping maybe the S6) is aggressive to my liking and feels the ever slightest smaller in diameter. 

He now offers the A6 driver and firmware along with the tons of emitter options he has, and I feel like it's a good way to get an A6 but internally built (and actually tested) much better than the original. He has a few host selections, but it appeared that the S6 was pretty similar to that of the A6 which I really like. The A6 is still kicking Zebralights and everything else out of my pocket right now.


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## markr6 (Dec 10, 2015)

I just now realized how perfect the soft press is on this switch! I don't believe I have ANY other reverse clickies right now, but looking back I remember them taking much more effort to switch modes. This one almost acts like a touch screen. Very nice!


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## Swedpat (Dec 10, 2015)

I just want to say: this light is my new favorite EDC light! And don't worry about that the price isn't as low as earlier: it's worth twice the price!
It's really the most impressive light I know for the money!


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## KeepingItLight (Dec 10, 2015)

*BLF A6 (3D) – Beam Shots*

*Beam Shots (2015-Dec-10)*

I have added the following beam shots to the OP. First up, a picture of the *BLF A6 Special Edition* with a short 18350 tube installed. The result is three-and-a-half inches long. That's shorter than a *ZebraLight SC62w*.







Now, the beam shots.

Against my white wall (that is actually a bit warmer than neutral), I can see a little of the yellow that shows up in these photos. I think the photos do tend to exaggerate it somewhat. In normal usage, I do not notice it. 

For these pictures, I shot at normal exposure, and also 1 and 2 stops below. Both flashlights are set to Med 1 mode (i.e., third lowest). The standard BLF A6 is on the left. The shorty A6, on the right.


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## sgt253 (Dec 11, 2015)

Swedpat said:


> I just want to say: this light is my new favorite EDC light! And don't worry about that the price isn't as low as earlier: it's worth twice the price!
> It's really the most impressive light I know for the money!



+1! This is one amazing light! The fit/finish, UI, the firmware all adds up to the most useful light! I gifted one to my brother. Non flashaholics appreciate its simple yet deep UI... Cannot say enough good things about this light. They did an awesome job in creating this light. Puts some of my custom/semi-custom lights to shame. Get one!


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## markr6 (Dec 11, 2015)

Good stuff. I mentioned it before, but the only real criticism I could make, considering the price, is the long reset time on the switch. Sometimes I turn it off and what seems like a long enough time to restart in LOW ends up being TURBO when I turn it back on (went reverse in the UI due to the long press). I guess that's the way it needs to be to allow forward/backward switching, though.

But, THE TINT!!! Absolute perfection


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## uofaengr (Dec 11, 2015)

Not much left to say about these except I'm glad I've got two of them.


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## markr6 (Dec 11, 2015)

Just compared my A6 w/3D to my new EC4SW (MT-G2). They are almost an exact match, but the 3D has a slight purple in the spill. I only noticed this since the MT-G2 is crazy neutral throughout.


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## Swedpat (Dec 11, 2015)

markr6 said:


> Good stuff. I mentioned it before, but the only real criticism I could make, considering the price, is the long reset time on the switch. Sometimes I turn it off and what seems like a long enough time to restart in LOW ends up being TURBO when I turn it back on (went reverse in the UI due to the long press). I guess that's the way it needs to be to allow forward/backward switching, though.
> 
> But, THE TINT!!! Absolute perfection



I agree. With one of my lights the reset time from low is 2-3s, but with the other 8-9s!


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## markr6 (Dec 11, 2015)

Swedpat said:


> I agree. With one of my lights the reset time from low is 2-3s, but with the other 8-9s!



Reminds me of my L3 Illumination L10s. I think their reset time is 32.903 years.

I never see the need for anything above 1 second unless they're selling to people with massive motor skill issues.


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## ven (Dec 11, 2015)

Bare A6 18350 bodies are in stock at banggood SKU336383  Ordered some O rings SKU325453 too as looks like it may not come with it!


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## uofaengr (Dec 11, 2015)

markr6 said:


> Just compared my A6 w/3D to my new EC4SW (MT-G2). They are almost an exact match, but the 3D has a slight purple in the spill. I only noticed this since the MT-G2 is crazy neutral throughout.


That MT-G2 tint looks delish... To my eyes looks Nichia-ish, tannish/pinkish, how's it in person compared to the 219b?


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## Tixx (Dec 11, 2015)

markr6 said:


> Reminds me of my L3 Illumination L10s. I think their reset time is 32.903 years.
> 
> I never see the need for anything above 1 second unless they're selling to people with massive motor skill issues.


Lol!


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## Tixx (Dec 11, 2015)

ven said:


> Bare A6 18350 bodies are in stock at banggood SKU336383  Ordered some O rings SKU325453 too as looks like it may not come with it!


They don't, so do.


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## markr6 (Dec 11, 2015)

uofaengr said:


> That MT-G2 tint looks delish... To my eyes looks Nichia-ish, tannish/pinkish, how's it in person compared to the 219b?



No Nichias to test with me at the moment, but my SC5w was always very close to Nichia. EC4SW and SC5w are very close. Tannish is a good way to describe it; basically an absence of any color.

Sorry, back on topic with the A6.


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## KeepingItLight (Dec 11, 2015)

ven said:


> Bare A6 18350 bodies are in stock at banggood SKU336383  Ordered some O rings SKU325453 too as looks like it may not come with it!




I bought both. You can get coupon codes at BLF for both of these.


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## ven (Dec 11, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> I bought both. You can get coupon codes at BLF for both of these.




Yes , i have the standard on order too from a few weeks back, still not arrived but i guess i am getting used to delays :laughing: Only spotted the naked 18350 bodies today so made up ,as i have been waiting impatiently for it! :laughing:


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## ven (Dec 11, 2015)

Tixx said:


> They don't, so do.



Thanks for confirmation, glad i splashed out the $1 :laughing:

I will have plenty that fit anyway, call it a "just in case"


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## ven (Dec 14, 2015)

Convoy clip flame grilled




Not the best clip by a long way, but then again so is the one that come with the a6! More of an antiroll for me rather than to be used as a clip. So having weak clips was no big deal...


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## Tixx (Dec 14, 2015)

Ordered some bare aluminum bodies and orings


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## ven (Dec 17, 2015)




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## Tixx (Dec 17, 2015)

ven said:


>


I'll have the opposite with bare bodies and black head/tails.


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## ven (Dec 17, 2015)

Cool, I have a naked body on the way just in case I change my mind ,but tbh I like the contrast of a part anodised /naked.


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## Swedpat (Dec 17, 2015)

Cool with a shorter body! Still I have hard to justify getting a much shorter runtime(1/4 or so?) while the total size don't really becomes very much smaller. The diameter remains the same and the light isn't very long with 18650 body either. I think in practise there are not many situations a 30mm shorter body is very big advantage to justify such a significant loss of battery capacity or weight. Whatever: not my intention to deprive the enjoyment with a shorter light, just my honest thought!


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## Tixx (Dec 17, 2015)

Swedpat said:


> Cool with a shorter body! Still I have hard to justify getting a much shorter runtime(1/4 or so?) while the total size don't really becomes very much smaller. The diameter remains the same and the light isn't very long with 18650 body either. I think in practise there are not many situations a 30mm shorter body is very big advantage to justify such a significant loss of battery capacity or weight. Whatever: not my intention to deprive the enjoyment with a shorter light, just my honest thought!


For me it is an edc pocket light. The extra length will not work for Pocket carry and I don't need endless runtime as I go home each night and swap batteries if I actually used it that much. Had I needed the capacity, zl62w is pocketable and would use that.


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## markr6 (Dec 17, 2015)

Swedpat said:


> Cool with a shorter body! Still I have hard to justify getting a much shorter runtime(1/4 or so?) while the total size don't really becomes very much smaller. The diameter remains the same and the light isn't very long with 18650 body either. I think in practise there are not many situations a 30mm shorter body is very big advantage to justify such a significant loss of battery capacity or weight. Whatever: not my intention to deprive the enjoyment with a shorter light, just my honest thought!



Basically my exact same thoughts that I didn't want to share


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## facepalm69 (Dec 17, 2015)

Im thinking about ordering a BLF A6 (3D). Sounds really good to me. 

I guess its more of a flooder, right? And how many actual lumens will this thing put out / how many cd?


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## markr6 (Dec 17, 2015)

facepalm69 said:


> Im thinking about ordering a BLF A6 (3D). Sounds really good to me.
> 
> I guess its more of a flooder, right? And how many actual lumens will this thing put out / how many cd?



I definitely would not call it a floody light. A nice general purpose beam with some good throw. I think a lot of us here may think "floody" since we're now spoiled with 1000m laserbeam throwers.

3D tint...perfection! Sorry, I can't really comment on the actual numbers.


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## KeepingItLight (Dec 17, 2015)

Most buyers will not do the spring-bypass, so output will be similar to what I discuss in the OP. The numbers I give are deliberately conservative. I expect almost all buyers who do not perform the spring-bypass will be able to reach them. 

In turbo mode, I estimated 1100-1200 lumens. In "high 2" mode, which is the next brightest, 750. In his YouTube review, CPF member mhanlen measured values that were 5-10% higher.

Note that the *BLF A6 Special Edition* uses a FET+1 driver that, by design, runs in direct-drive mode. The FET feeds as much current to the emitter as the battery is capable of supplying. That means that output is limited by the battery, rather than the driver. Using a high-draw battery, such as the *Samsung 30Q*, the *LG HE2*, or the *LG HE4* is essential to obtaining high output.


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## ven (Dec 17, 2015)

Swedpat said:


> Cool with a shorter body! Still I have hard to justify getting a much shorter runtime(1/4 or so?) while the total size don't really becomes very much smaller. The diameter remains the same and the light isn't very long with 18650 body either. I think in practise there are not many situations a 30mm shorter body is very big advantage to justify such a significant loss of battery capacity or weight. Whatever: not my intention to deprive the enjoyment with a shorter light, just my honest thought!




I understand completely , certainly more beneficial 18650 fed, no doubt about that for run times. Now i just like the option as i find it far more convenient to carry, really is quite small with the 18350 body . The 18650 size for me is edc'able , but not without knowing its there if makes sense. Similar output to the eye(if not the same) and most my uses are low-med kind of power. So still has enough edc run time for me but with a benefit of tiny.......ish. 

Imo its worth a few $'s just for the choice


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## ven (Dec 17, 2015)

Pics for size next to an s2+ 18350 and 18650 cell


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## Tixx (Dec 17, 2015)

18650 A6, 18350 A6, convoy s2 18350.


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## facepalm69 (Dec 17, 2015)

Oh wow.. well I got KeepPower protected 3500's with 10A current output. 20A is twice as much!


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## Greta (Dec 17, 2015)

This thread is now being closed. 

Offers like this are welcome here on CPF. However they need to be in the proper forum and follow the policies of the forum. For future reference, please read the definitions posted HERE for Dealers, Manufacturers and Custom Builders and Modders. And if the offer is a true group buy, please use the Group Buy forum. By definition, this offering is NOT a group buy. It is a sales thread - advertising for a Dealer... specifically Banggood. As Banggood is an Authorized Dealer on CPF, this thread should be posted by the Banggood representative in the Dealer forum.

I apologize for not catching this sooner. That is entirely on me. However going forward, please respect the policies of the CPF forums. I understand we do things a bit differently here on CPF than you do on BLF. That's just how it is. 

Thank you in advance for your future cooperation.


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