# The Quark lights thread! (Part 6)



## Badbeams3 (May 30, 2009)

_*[Continued from **Part 1* *, Part 2, Part 3 and Part4*_


Announcing the new Quark lights...

10 year performance warranty!!!

Let`s try to keep this thread from getting closed down from nonsense 


Manufacture's link


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## corvettesR1 (Sep 11, 2009)

*My new Quark on the way .*

Hello again. Well,I seem to have missed out on the Titanium Quarks by around 2 weeks.Being new to flashlight collecting ,I want a Quark lol. 

I went for a Quark Tactical 123-2 neutral white .
http://www.4sevens.com/popup_image.php?pID=1669&image=0


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## jblackwood (Sep 11, 2009)

*Re: My new Quark on the way .*

You'll be more than happy with it. The neutral white seems to be just short of brown to me, still very nice. Also, I thought I'd like the form factor much more than my Quark 2xAA due to its shorter length, but the thickness is enough to make it JUST short of uncomfortable for me. The 2xAA is thinner (though longer) and for my hand a bit more comfortable to use. Of course, the 2xCR123 is a bit brighter. 

Oh yeah . . . :welcome::thumbsup:
One more thing . . . hold on to your wallet!


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## fyrstormer (Sep 11, 2009)

*Re: My new Quark on the way .*

So...were the titanium Quarks a one-time thing, or will they be ordering more in the future?


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## Cataract (Sep 11, 2009)

*Re: My new Quark on the way .*

I got my first Quark 2 weeks ago (QAA neutral) and just love it! the size is perfect. I still ordered 2AA body, just because I like a strong light. I liked it so much I ordered a QAA neutral tactical befre they run out of stock... perfect little light for work! Used it plenty for two days in a row installing a film processing machine and since I had to go in and out of the dark room, I used the 0.2 lumen setting so I didn't have to ask the guys to put the film away... this is THE light for my line of work!




fyrstormer said:


> So...were the titanium Quarks a one-time thing, or will they be ordering more in the future?


 
Supposed to be a one-time deal. I missed out too, since I couldn't get a spec on the lumens and prefer the neutral LED's anyway.


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## adnj (Sep 11, 2009)

*Re: My new Quark on the way .*



fyrstormer said:


> So...were the titanium Quarks a one-time thing, or will they be ordering more in the future?



These are supposed to be "available" at a higher price in the future.

Read about it here

But I believe that some will hit the B/S/T forum pretty quickly.


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## corvettesR1 (Sep 11, 2009)

*Re: My new Quark on the way .*

Thanks for the information on the Titanium Quarks.Ill be online if they come up for sale in the future.Even with a higher price,I"ll bite the bullet and pay it . (Hope the cost isnt too much higher lol)


The Tactical , 2x123A, Quark should be very fine and I feel it wont be too long in length but Im glad it has a clip. 

I have a feeling ill want to get a few more Quarks very soon .I might try a single AA version soon .It sure is fun to open those packages. Again, thanks for the comments.


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## jahxman (Sep 11, 2009)

*Re: My new Quark on the way .*



kwkarth said:


> For you guys that have multiple Quarks w/ Q3-5A emitters...
> 
> Have you noticed much variance between emitter color? Of the three 5A's that I have, no two are the same, but even the "warmest" of the three is still very pleasant. The "coolest" of the three is very close to true "neutral" and the other two are more "brown". I think the most neutral of the three is my favorite.


 
Yes, there is quite noticable variance among my neutral white quarks. For that matter there is variance among the R2s also, but definitely not as much.


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## Yucca Patrol (Sep 11, 2009)

*Re: My new Quark on the way .*

4-Sevens would be nuts not to continue to offer reasonably priced titanium lights considering the demand that there is and will continue to be.

I didn't get in on the first batch because I am waiting for an 18650 powered Quark and then hoping that a titanium version will then be offered.


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## HKJ (Sep 11, 2009)

*Re: My new Quark on the way .*



Yucca Patrol said:


> 4-Sevens would be nuts not to continue to offer reasonably priced titanium lights considering the demand that there is and will continue to be.
> 
> I didn't get in on the first batch because I am waiting for an 18650 powered Quark and then hoping that a titanium version will then be offered.



7777 has promised that the Ti Quarks was a limited series and he has also written that in intends to keep it that way. I.e. only 700 Ti Quarks total and some Ti spare parts.


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## Linger (Sep 11, 2009)

Yucca - I dunno. 4seven's indicated their margins will be really slim with this ti run. Further, David's said mass appeal requires price-point be below $100. So yes 4seven's probably could make a decent bit with Ti lights but it seems a regular run would be contra to their philosophies.
I hope your choice to stay out pays off. IFAIK, no 18650's for quarks, David wrote that the next series (with the ubiquitous mc-e light) would be a tactical series and incompatable with Quarks.

Off topic, that bugs me. I think the p60 standard is great. I think 4sevens Quark lego really upped their sales. I think they should have set on a standard connection size, atleast with heads so that those with enough power in their quark bodies could swap in the mc-e or new tact heads.
Just my .02


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## ninjaboigt (Sep 11, 2009)

hey guys, i got a question, i currently have a quark NW tac, 2AA, and i love how the flashlight clips to my pocket, its easy to pull out and easy to clip back on. im intrested in getting another quark, a reg tail cap and reg tint, but i was looking at the AA, is the clip just as good, or does any body have any issues wiht the clip on this specfic body?

edit, and im also thinking about the single Cr123A, hows the clip for that? and to change the batt for that model, you have to hold up the clip while taking off the cap right?


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## jabe1 (Sep 11, 2009)

1AA has the same clip, the 123 I don't know. The 123 clip is not removable though and does rest on the tailcap. How often would you have to change a battery anyway? _and _the HA finish should protect it pretty well from scratching.


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## pobox1475 (Sep 11, 2009)

lovecpf


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## jahxman (Sep 11, 2009)

Also on the Q123 the clip is permanently attached to the head, so the only way to clip it is bezel up. On the other models you can reverse the clip to either position, or remove it completely.


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## buraianto (Sep 12, 2009)

Can someone explain to me what the benefit of a Ti Quark is? Is it lighter? Stronger? More resistant to scratches? Or is it the feeling like you've got an SR-71 in your pocket? (Which is cool enough, I wager.)


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## Linger (Sep 12, 2009)

I guess I'm not a clip person. I removed it off the demo quark i had for a while, but didn't like the gap (had to put an o-ring into the retaining ring to keep it from spinning around). Now I've got a piece of heat-shrink over bend to keep rubber between the clip and the body.
Occasionally I think about the clipless 16340 and the 14500 battery tube instead.

ninjaboigt, there is one clip used across all lights / models.


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## [email protected] (Sep 12, 2009)

buraianto said:


> Can someone explain to me what the benefit of a Ti Quark is? Is it lighter? Stronger? More resistant to scratches? Or is it the feeling like you've got an SR-71 in your pocket? (Which is cool enough, I wager.)



Only that you would hope that your light don't leak toxic jet fuel all over the place when the surface of the light is less than a couple thousand degrees.  Also Ti gets scratched more easily but the scratches work themselves out due to surface oxidation or sandpaper. It's heavier than Al.


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## Egsise (Sep 12, 2009)

The charger that I used is a Sanyo MQH02 at 1090mA, charge completeness is around 85%.
These are the runtimes of my Quark AA neutral white.
During the moon mode test I turned the Quark off after 274h runtime, waited 10sec and turned it back on.


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## Toohotruk (Sep 12, 2009)

Wow! That's some pretty serious runtime for a single AA cell! oo:


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## berry580 (Sep 12, 2009)

wow... the gap between Turbo & high isn't that much w/ runtime @ 12mins difference, medium doesn't look too medium... lol

Maybe visually, it'll tell another story.
I don't have any quarks myself, I'll have to wait for my Ti Quarks to see for myself, just like everyone else...


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## HKJ (Sep 12, 2009)

berry580 said:


> wow... the gap between Turbo & high isn't that much w/ runtime @ 12mins difference, medium doesn't look too medium... lol
> 
> Maybe visually, it'll tell another story.
> I don't have any quarks myself, I'll have to wait for my Ti Quarks to see for myself, just like everyone else...



On a single AA cell the difference is minimal, but try using a LiIon or another body with 2xAA or a CR123, then the differences will increase.

You need 2.4 volt to reach maximum brightness on max. with the low voltage head.


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## Egsise (Sep 12, 2009)

HKJ said:


> On a single AA cell the difference is minimal, but try using a LiIon or another body with 2xAA or a CR123, then the differences will increase.
> 
> You need 2.4 volt to reach maximum brightness on max. with the low voltage head.


+1 to 14500 Li-Ion or 2xAA, I just didn't want to do runtime tests with 1000 hour moon mode expectation.


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## PhantomPhoton (Sep 12, 2009)

Titanium alloys like those used in most flashlights are stronger than aluminum and lighter than Steel. So it's a nice in-between material. Titanium is very corrosion resistant, though it lacks aluminum's thermal properties. It can look very nice when polished up. Overall Titanium, being a "cool" material as well as slightly more expensive, is more highly prized by collectors and many users.

Yep, I can't wait to see the runtime on the 18650 quark...


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## berry580 (Sep 12, 2009)

300hrs + on AA eneloop @ moonlight mode.
With 18650 on moonlight mode, it'll just keep going to the point where YOU WANT it to just [email protected]#$ing turn off!! LOL

And it's not too good to be true, should be just weeks away.... =D


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## ninjaboigt (Sep 12, 2009)

thanks for the reply everybody! i think ima go wtih the cr123a model =] thanks!


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## 4sevens (Sep 12, 2009)

berry580 said:


> wow... the gap between Turbo & high isn't that much w/ runtime @ 12mins difference, medium doesn't look too medium... lol
> 
> Maybe visually, it'll tell another story.
> I don't have any quarks myself, I'll have to wait for my Ti Quarks to see for myself, just like everyone else...


Actually, the visual difference between medium and high appears to be 2x. Remember our perception may be linear which power requirements are logarythmic. 

There was a lot of study done when the levels were determined.

The reason max and high are so different is due to the lower voltage of the 1.5v cell. Max is ceiling naturally limited by the cell's voltage as well as it's voltage under load - this will vary greatly due to the chemistry as well as brand of cells. Most alkalines will buckle until heavy load 



PhantomPhoton said:


> Yep, I can't wait to see the runtime on the 18650 quark...



Sorry. There will NOT be an 18650 Quark.

BUT there will be an 18650 body   
I have a prototype


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## jahxman (Sep 12, 2009)

4sevens said:


> Sorry. There will NOT be an 18650 Quark.
> 
> BUT there will be an 18650 body
> I have a prototype


 
 crush our hopes and then lift us back up again. nice.:naughty:


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## Badbeams3 (Sep 12, 2009)

4sevens said:


> BUT there will be an 18650 body
> I have a prototype



You just don`t stop :shakehead If there`s a buck in my poor old wallet...you just can`t stand it. "psst...hey buddy...you don`t need to feed those kid`s...I have a new body for your light...nice lonnng run time " :thinking:  

BTW...are you going to offer a neutral white 123x2 head? I have 2 bucks in my wallet...not that you don`t already know that some how


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## Zendude (Sep 12, 2009)

*Re: My new Quark on the way .*

deleted: for quoting outdated information.


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## Marduke (Sep 12, 2009)

*Re: My new Quark on the way .*



Zendude said:


> Check post #251 in the MP thread.
> 
> Quote: "I am considering an additional run of non-serial numbered without the limited engraving at significantly higher priced to cover our costs. Right now I'm not able to supply our dealers with these lights due to the small margin. So it's possible that we'll make this a regular item priced appropriately - given the extra cost of working with titanium as well as the latest and greatest LED on the planet - the XPG R4
> 
> ...



Read further down the thread


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## Zendude (Sep 12, 2009)

*Re: My new Quark on the way .*



Marduke said:


> Read further down the thread



Thanks Marduke. One sentence in post #524 is what I missed. When they talked about limited parts I thought they were referring to the serialized run only. Other post deleted.


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## PhantomPhoton (Sep 12, 2009)

4sevens said:


> Sorry. There will NOT be an 18650 Quark.
> 
> BUT there will be an 18650 body
> I have a prototype




:rock:
Will you accept _left_ arms and legs, or just firstborn children as payment?


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## Toohotruk (Sep 12, 2009)

4sevens said:


> ...BUT there will be an 18650 body
> I have a prototype



I'm glad you finally made the announcement! :thumbsup:

It's been killing me to keep my mouth shut ever since you showed me that prototype!


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## yuk (Sep 12, 2009)

Toohotruk said:


> I'm glad you finally made the announcement! :thumbsup:
> 
> It's been killing me to keep my mouth shut ever since you showed me that prototype!


 What else do you know??? :scowl: :whoopin:
:laughing:


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## Toohotruk (Sep 12, 2009)




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## Mr. Tone (Sep 12, 2009)

4sevens said:


> Actually, the visual difference between medium and high appears to be 2x. Remember our perception may be linear which power requirements are logarythmic.
> 
> There was a lot of study done when the levels were determined.
> 
> ...


 

I personally think the percieved spacing of the output levels is perfect. It was definitely very well thought out and I thank you for it. The Quarks are just fantastic all the way around! :thumbsup:

A body for 18650 that will fit the current Quarks? You can count me in!


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## 4sevens (Sep 12, 2009)

PhantomPhoton said:


> :rock:
> Will you accept _left_ arms and legs, or just firstborn children as payment?


LOL! No they won't be that expensive! One of our company goals is to keep everything as affordable! Theres no sense in only a few who can enjoy our creations. 


Toohotruk said:


> I'm glad you finally made the announcement! :thumbsup:
> 
> It's been killing me to keep my mouth shut ever since you showed me that prototype!


ACTUALLY, what you saw was the first prototype of the MCE light (Maelstrom series). What I'm refering to is the 18650 body that fits on any of the Quark series lights. When I met you in Salt Lake City, I didn't have the prototype yet.  We managed to keep the diameter of the 18650 body the same. It wasn't easy!


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## SilentK (Sep 12, 2009)

4sevens said:


> LOL! No they won't be that expensive! One of our company goals is to keep everything as affordable! Theres no sense in only a few who can enjoy our creations.
> ACTUALLY, what you saw was the first prototype of the MCE light (Maelstrom series). What I'm refering to is the 18650 body that fits on any of the Quark series lights. When I met you in Salt Lake City, I didn't have the prototype yet.  We managed to keep the diameter of the 18650 body the same. It wasn't easy!




Wait just a minute! Maelstrom series? It is called Maelstrom, and there is more than one series of mc-e lights?


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## 4sevens (Sep 12, 2009)

SilentK said:


> Wait just a minute! Maelstrom series? It is called Maelstrom, and there is more than one series of mc-e lights?


  
Yes, series. But we'll start with one model to boot.
I might as well jump into the vortex...

The Maelstroms will be our tactical line of lights. 
Significantly brighter than the competition. 
Tough as nails. Versatile yet intuitively simple interface.
And it won't cost a fortune.


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## Toohotruk (Sep 12, 2009)

4sevens said:


> LOL! No they won't be that expensive! One of our company goals is to keep everything as affordable! Theres no sense in only a few who can enjoy our creations.
> ACTUALLY, what you saw was the first prototype of the MCE light (Maelstrom series). What I'm refering to is the 18650 body that fits on any of the Quark series lights. When I met you in Salt Lake City, I didn't have the prototype yet.  We managed to keep the diameter of the 18650 body the same. It wasn't easy!




Oh, OK...for some reason I thought that I actually saw the 18650 body. I remember you saying there would be one for the Quarks, and I must have seen the body for the Maelstrom. I was overwhelmed with info that day and saw so many cool things...must have shorted out something in my brain. 



I'm still glad you announced the 18650 body though...I've seen so many posts begging for one (and complaining about the lack of one), and it's been difficult to keep the info bottled up inside.


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## DimeRazorback (Sep 12, 2009)

4sevens said:


> Yes, series. But we'll start with one model to boot.
> I might as well jump into the vortex...
> 
> The Maelstroms will be our tactical line of lights.
> ...



Ohhh interesting!

Pics!! 


:twothumbs


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## Badbeams3 (Sep 12, 2009)

DimeRazorback said:


> Ohhh interesting!
> 
> Pics!!
> 
> ...



We tried asking, we tried begging, we tried demanding. It`s super secret. Rumour has it that some company is trying to steal the plans...take over the flashlight world.


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## berry580 (Sep 12, 2009)

jahxman said:


> crush our hopes and then lift us back up again. nice.:naughty:


 I thought so too. Its like a roller-coaster!



4sevens said:


> Yes, series. But we'll start with one model to boot.
> I might as well jump into the vortex...
> 
> The Maelstroms will be our tactical line of lights.
> ...


Titanium versions? Please? =D


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## jabe1 (Sep 12, 2009)

David, can you please keep your pre-order dates spaced three to four weeks apart? That way I can reload my Paypal account between lights!!


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## 4sevens (Sep 12, 2009)

berry580 said:


> Titanium versions? Please? =D


Maybe in a few months. The Al ones come first.


jabe1 said:


> David, can you please keep your pre-order dates spaced three to four weeks apart? That way I can reload my Paypal account between lights!!


Sorry I can't promise that. We WERE planning on spacing release dates out but various 
delays came in so now we have a half a dozen lights almost ready to be released - all nearly the same time


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## jabe1 (Sep 12, 2009)

How about a "Flashlight of the month" club? 
LOL :laughing:


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## Mr. Tone (Sep 12, 2009)

4sevens said:


> Maybe in a few months. The Al ones come first.
> Sorry I can't promise that. We WERE planning on spacing release dates out but various
> delays came in so now we have a half a dozen lights almost ready to be released - all nearly the same time


 
:twothumbs

Should we have a certain amount garnished from our wages directly to keep up with our 4sevens obsession?


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## berry580 (Sep 12, 2009)

4sevens said:


> Maybe in a few months. The Al ones come first.
> Sorry I can't promise that. We WERE planning on spacing release dates out but various
> delays came in so now we have a half a dozen lights almost ready to be released - all nearly the same time


LOL

That's gonna be very hard on our pockets....

It's good to have the Al first, they're like the prototypes for the Ti version. :twothumbs


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## MichaelW (Sep 12, 2009)

Can we pay in body parts?
I'd give my left eye... oh wait



neutral-white mc-e in the works?

TK30 (if neutral-white) or M2SC4 or 4-7 Maelstrom mc-e


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## JermsMalibu (Sep 12, 2009)

So will there be an 18650 body for the Titanium Quarks? Or only the Al ones? That'd be nice if we could get a Ti one too.


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## berry580 (Sep 12, 2009)

i think 4sevens meant that there will be a 18650 for the Quark series and the maelstroms (MC-E) is being worked on and there "maybe" a Ti version of the Maelstrom.


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## pobox1475 (Sep 12, 2009)

> The Maelstroms will be our tactical line of lights.
> Significantly brighter than the competition.
> Tough as nails. Versatile yet intuitively simple interface.
> And it won't cost a fortune.


 Warm tint option? The 123 2 standards went in a blink of my eye :-(


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## recDNA (Sep 13, 2009)

ninjaboigt said:


> thanks for the reply everybody! i think ima go wtih the cr123a model =] thanks!


I thought I was the last man on earth who prefers primaries. A nice 2XCr123 MC-E that doesn't overheat on high would be MY choice. Now give it a floody beam and I'll be the ONLY guy thrilled with the light! LOL


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## qip (Sep 13, 2009)

i cant for the life of me find the pic but i know i saw it, it was a quark head disassembled exposing the xpe on a round pcb ...i wanna know if the cutter xpg with either 10 or 20mm pcb is a direct swap 

+ David , did you use the same regular xpe reflector in the Ti quarks for the xpg or make a new one..is the xpg good with xpe reflector


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## [email protected] (Sep 13, 2009)

4sevens said:


> The Maelstroms will be our tactical line of lights.
> Significantly brighter than the competition.
> Tough as nails. Versatile yet intuitively simple interface.
> And it won't cost a fortune.




I'm glad you settled on that name for your new tac light... but then I'm biased!


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## CaNo (Sep 14, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I'm glad you settled on that name for your new tac light... but then I'm biased!


 
You are quite the influential guy I guess! Take it as an honor! I wonder how long it will take for a CaNo line of flashlights... :naughty: lol


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## AardvarkSagus (Sep 14, 2009)

4sevens said:


> Yes, series. But we'll start with one model to boot.
> I might as well jump into the vortex...
> 
> The Maelstroms will be our tactical line of lights.
> ...


Sweet! I was really hoping for the Maelstrom name. Powerful, menacing, unique...


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## ninjaboigt (Sep 14, 2009)

maelstorm sounds awsome! 

i really hope they'll be able to take cr123a primaries...i dont mess with li-ion....

and affordable...that is a big plus =]


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## uplite (Sep 14, 2009)

Badbeams3 said:


> _*[Continued from **Part 1* *, Part 2, Part 3 and Part4*_


Hey CPF moderators! FYI: You forgot to update the starting post of this thread with *Part 5*. Thanks. 

-Jeff

p.s. It is kinda ridiculous that the CPF moderators break this thread so often. This makes it a major PITA to search for useful information about the Quarks. Seriously. I use other vbulletin forums where the threads have 10K+ posts, and where you can search more frequently than every 30 seconds.  CPF is stuck in the 1990s...but NEWS FLASH...it is 2009.  Upgrade your lame-a** server to a Pentium 4, at least. You can get one on craigslist for $100.


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## uplite (Sep 14, 2009)

qip said:


> i cant for the life of me find the pic but i know i saw it, it was a quark head disassembled exposing the xpe on a round pcb ...i wanna know if the cutter xpg with either 10 or 20mm pcb is a direct swap
> 
> + David , did you use the same regular xpe reflector in the Ti quarks for the xpg or make a new one..is the xpg good with xpe reflector


I think you're looking for *this post* from Part 1 of this thread, which has several pics including this one:

EDIT: Oops...sorry...this pic is HUGE. Click the link above to see the pics if you want.

Looks like a 10mm pcb would fit. Definitely not a 20mm pcb.

Has anyone else disassembled a Quark head? Any instructions/pictures? I'd like to put a GITD o-ring inside mine...

-Jeff


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## qip (Sep 14, 2009)

yes thats the one..i didnt think it would be in part 1 as it was so early ...i searched EVERY page from part 2 on


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## uplite (Sep 14, 2009)

By the way...it is very sad how few *photos* appear in these threads. 

I guess this is because CPF does not allow image attachments...so we have to upload images to sites like imageshack...and most guys don't bother... :shrug:

Anyway - here is my latest Quark photo porn. I took the wrist strap off an old compact camera and put it on my Q123:







I thought the Quark finger sleeve was a nice touch...but the wrist strap is now my preferred carry whenever I hold the light for more than a few seconds. It'd be nice if the Quarks shipped with a wrist strap instead of that useless clunky lanyard thingy.  OK, I admit, I actually put the lanyard on a waterproof camera case for kayaking use. 

-Jeff


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## PeaceOfMind (Sep 14, 2009)

uplite said:


> By the way...it is very sad how few *photos* appear in these threads.



Very true. Here's a close-up photo of my Quark AA tactical. as you can see, I've already put it through some abuse!


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## [email protected] (Sep 15, 2009)

CaNo said:


> You are quite the influential guy I guess! Take it as an honor! I wonder how long it will take for a CaNo line of flashlights... :naughty: lol




ROTFLMAO I wish 

TBH it was Mr. AardvarkSagus whom suggested the name for the new Tac series light from 4sevens... but I'll gladly take credit for it should he choose not too!


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## AardvarkSagus (Sep 15, 2009)

Who, me?


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## adnj (Sep 15, 2009)

uplite said:


> p.s. It is kinda ridiculous that the CPF moderators break this thread so often. This makes it a major PITA to search for useful information about the Quarks. Seriously. ... Upgrade your lame-a** server to a Pentium 4, at least. You can get one on craigslist for $100.



Kind of a harsh and unnecessary comment. Particularly when I believe that most of the reasonably useful information in this thread should probably be in the 4Sevens manufacturer's forum. 

:thumbsdow


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## pobox1475 (Sep 15, 2009)

:rock:, GF just ordered me a 123 2 Tac & AW. Technically if I was to swap the head with my standard 123 would it give the higher output on single cell?


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## uplite (Sep 15, 2009)

pobox1475 said:


> GF just ordered me a 123 2 Tac & AW. Technically if I was to swap the head with my standard 123 would it give the higher output on single cell?


Aww...what a good GF!! :kiss: Be sure you give her a nice present too. :thumbsup:

This issue came up just last month. It is hard to find since this thread has been broken _twice_ by the moderators since then.  (Hey adnj, are you paying attention? )

Short answer: *No, the 123x2 head does not give a real Max mode on a single 123.* For more info, start reading from *this post*.

-Jeff


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## uplite (Sep 15, 2009)

adnj said:


> Kind of a harsh and unnecessary comment. Particularly when I believe that most of the reasonably useful information in this thread should probably be in the 4Sevens manufacturer's forum.


Sorry...I should've added more     to that post to show that it was in good spirit. Plus a few of these for the CPF mods:    This is meant to be *constructive* criticism. :thumbsup:

In all seriousness, the CPF search limitations and thread-splitting are huge barriers to anyone who wants to FIND information here before posting. And the 4Sevens MP forum is even worse. It has the same search limitations, plus fewer users, fewer posts, a lower percentage of "real" users (end users), and a higher proportion of marketing hype. 

Here's a simple *on-topic* test for you: Try to find all posts that discuss the *o-rings* in the Quarks. Just the o-rings. It would be nice to know if anyone has posted their dimensions, material, compatible lubes, sources, etc. If you can easily find all the posts, please lemme know.  

-Jeff


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## recDNA (Sep 15, 2009)

jabe1 said:


> How about a "Flashlight of the month" club?
> LOL :laughing:


 

Ya really think Titanium MC-E's are gonna be in the flashlight of the month club? All Costco and Ultrafire.


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## vali (Sep 15, 2009)

uplite said:


> p.s. It is kinda ridiculous that the CPF moderators break this thread so often. This makes it a major PITA to search for useful information about the Quarks. Seriously. I use other vbulletin forums where the threads have 10K+ posts, and where you can search more frequently than every 30 seconds.  CPF is stuck in the 1990s...but NEWS FLASH...it is 2009.  Upgrade your lame-a** server to a Pentium 4, at least. You can get one on craigslist for $100.



I really doubt server racks would cost you $100. If we were talking about flashlights, the $100 thing is like a 3xAAA showerhead. You need something reliable (as they will be 24x7 on, literally). As in every aspect of the life, the professional and reliable tools will cost you much more than the average people asume things will cost.

OTOH, do you think they have the server in their home and can change the hardware at will?  I worked as a Sysadmin and most times the "limiting" factor is not the hardware (sometimes are even ridiculous things you cant change for a variety of reasons, including the client's will). If they do the things the way they do, I am sure they have good reasons.

Offtopic over (and sorry, I am tired of ppl that things working with computers in a professional way is the same as installing a couple of programs in their home).


----------



## uplite (Sep 16, 2009)

vali, fyi, * = JOKING*

fwiw, I have owned and operated a dedicated 2U server in a 24x7 colo, running (among many other processes) a vBulletin forum. But you're right, it wasn't CPF. :grouphug:

Bottom line, I am happy to pay my hard-earned cash to support forums that work well. RCGroups, for example. They also run on vBulletin...but they have good searching tools, pictures, attachments, and threads run up to 20,000 posts with no problem. So...
 

I would pay to support CPF if it was a more usable resource. In the meantime...maybe someone will start a Quark wiki? 

Back on topic...really ...*does anyone know what the Quark o-rings are made of?* Silicone, nitrile, something else? Thx.

-Jeff


----------



## PeaceOfMind (Sep 17, 2009)

Hey Everyone,

There was some talk awhile back (I think in Part 5) about some of the longer 14500 cells not fitting well into the QAA because of them being a bit too long.

4Sevens jumped in to say that there were going to be new retaining rings available soon that solved the problem. (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3068668&postcount=368%29)

Not sure if anyone else has mentioned it already, but I just received one of these new retaining rings in the mail and installed it. It solved my problem with my 14500's being too long! They now fit great. Fit for normal AA's was not affected, they still fit in great too. The new ring is flatter than the old one, it doesn't have the raised area around the inner part of its front.

Thanks to 4Sevens for being kind enough to send me one of the new rings, fantastic customer service. It's great that they are willing to solve problems like this, because in this case it's really the battery that's too long, not because there was anything wrong with the light per se.


----------



## Kwanon13 (Sep 17, 2009)

4sevens said:


> Yes, series. But we'll start with one model to boot.
> I might as well jump into the vortex...
> 
> The Maelstroms will be our tactical line of lights.
> ...


 Vortex, interesting choice of words from one who enjoys " letting it slip" once in a while. Will this be the name of the non-tac mc-e series? :thinking:


----------



## AardvarkSagus (Sep 17, 2009)

Kwanon13 said:


> Vortex, interesting choice of words from one who enjoys " letting it slip" once in a while. Will this be the name of the non-tac mc-e series? :thinking:


Either that or it's just the vortex of the Maelstrom. I'm hoping it's another new name...


----------



## Billy Berue (Sep 18, 2009)

4sevens said:


> We WERE planning on spacing release dates out but various delays came in so now we have a half a dozen lights almost ready to be released - all nearly the same time



Uh oh...my wallet just climbed out of my pocket unassisted and tried repeatedly to actually jump right into my computer screen!


----------



## qip (Sep 18, 2009)

half a dozen huh

Ti Quarks
Malstorm MCE
AAA light

whats the other 3


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## uplite (Sep 18, 2009)

4 different Ti Quark bodies + 1 MCE + 1 AA = 6...I think 

The light that I _really_ want to see them release is #7...the Polychrome Maelstrom. RGBW MCE . It's all about the UI... 

-Jeff


----------



## ninjaboigt (Sep 18, 2009)

47 mentioned someway to attach every quark to your head some how..its in the 4seven's subform...


----------



## BST07 (Sep 18, 2009)

Way too much information for me to digest...

I want to get Quark AA2 for a friend's upcoming birthday. He rides his bike a lot after the sun sets and I was wondering if anybody knows of a bicycle mount for the Quark AA2? Will the Fenix bike mount work?


----------



## qip (Sep 18, 2009)

-Ti quark regular models but also tacticals so it cant be counted as 8 alone new ,just grouped as quark for 1

-MCE light + MCE RGB 2 models
-AAA light 1
-headlight thingamajig

thats 4 or minus headlight since its not a light just an attatchment is back to 3

or 2 if both mce lights are counted as 1 just different emitters but certainly different ui i think

so theres still 3 or 4 lights we have not heard about ....all being released soon $$$$$$$


----------



## ninjaboigt (Sep 18, 2009)

hmm seems like it would fit..if not duct tape works well =]


----------



## bodhran (Sep 18, 2009)

I use the Two Fish lockblocks to mount my AA2 on my bike. Works great and also available through 4sevens. Get the Three pack though...the kids keep taking mine...


----------



## recDNA (Sep 18, 2009)

PeaceOfMind said:


> Hey Everyone,
> 
> There was some talk awhile back (I think in Part 5) about some of the longer 14500 cells not fitting well into the QAA because of them being a bit too long.
> 
> ...


 

I'm very surprised. I thought I read 4-sevens say that Li-Ions were too dangerous for them to even deal with? Making accessories for Li-Ions surprises me.


----------



## gunga (Sep 18, 2009)

Actually, he stated he does not agree with unprotected li-ons (eg the tiny 10440 cells).

He is okay with protected Li-on.

Keep in mind he is producing an 18650 light!


----------



## broomdodger (Sep 19, 2009)

bodhran said:


> I use the Two Fish lockblocks to mount my AA2 on my bike. Works great and also available through 4sevens. Get the Three pack though...the kids keep taking mine...



I agree they are great, I carry two lights, simpler than changing batteries, Fenix and Quark neutral, both AA single cell, more than enough light. I normally use the Quark on low or medium.


----------



## broomdodger (Sep 19, 2009)

Some while back I read about ni-zn batteries.
Where are they available?
Where to get more info?


----------



## hiker123 (Sep 30, 2009)

Well I haven't had much time to play with my Quark, but have had some problems so far. Sometimes *a little* pressure to the head makes it switch modes and now my head came apart. Is it suppose to do this? I have probably only switched modes less the 50 times and have babied this thing (no drops etc). My mini-mag incandescent is probably 10 years old and I never had a problem with it so I am not happy the Quark is so delicate and expensive compared to it.


----------



## Marduke (Sep 30, 2009)

Just screw it back together tight, no big deal.


----------



## gunga (Sep 30, 2009)

Yep, just opened mine last night to add glow rings. 1 had much more loctite tahn the other. In any case, I'm glad they are easy to open for future upgrades.


:thumbsup:

If you are worried your light will open up, just add a bit of teflon plumbers tape to lock it down tightly.


----------



## hiker123 (Sep 30, 2009)

gunga said:


> Yep, just opened mine last night to add glow rings. 1 had much more loctite tahn the other. In any case, I'm glad they are easy to open for future upgrades.
> 
> :thumbsup:
> 
> If you are worried your light will open up, just add a bit of teflon plumbers tape to lock it down tightly.



I never tried to open the head (disassemble). I have cleaned the threads to make the head switch modes between the tube body more smoothly as it is hard to turn. When I go to switch modes to a loosened state sometimes the head disassembles instead of switching modes (between the body and tube) no matter how hard I tighten the head assembly.

A little pressure on the head will also make the Quark switch modes randomly or to off which is great at night on the trail [/sarcasm]. I just thought out of the box I shouldn't have to do so many things to make this light work reliably.


----------



## ninjaboigt (Sep 30, 2009)

hiker123 said:


> Well I haven't had much time to play with my Quark, but have had some problems so far. Sometimes *a little* pressure to the head makes it switch modes and now my head came apart. Is it suppose to do this? I have probably only switched modes less the 50 times and have babied this thing (no drops etc). My mini-mag incandescent is probably 10 years old and I never had a problem with it so I am not happy the Quark is so delicate and expensive compared to it.


 
COOL! lets get some beam shots with out the reflector


----------



## Nake (Sep 30, 2009)

hiker123 said:


> I never tried to open the head (disassemble). I have cleaned the threads to make the head switch modes between the tube body more smoothly as it is hard to turn. When I go to switch modes to a loosened state sometimes the head disassembles instead of switching modes (between the body and tube) no matter how hard I tighten the head assembly.
> 
> A little pressure on the head will also make the Quark switch modes randomly or to off which is great at night on the trail [/sarcasm]. I just thought out of the box I shouldn't have to do so many things to make this light work reliably.


 
If you unscrew the head 1/2 turn like the instructions say, it won't come on when you push on the head. All threads will have slop in them, and you're just taking that slop up when you push on the head. Even a 1/4 turn will do.


----------



## PeaceOfMind (Sep 30, 2009)

hiker123 said:


> I just thought out of the box I shouldn't have to do so many things to make this light work reliably.



I think your experience here is the exception rather than the rule, as most of what I have heard and experienced about the Quarks is excellent performance out of the box. While I'm sure you could fix the issues yourself, if you're really unhappy, I'm sure 4sevens would gladly make things right in whatever way possible.


----------



## uplite (Sep 30, 2009)

hiker123 said:


> Sometimes *a little* pressure to the head makes it switch modes


Yeah, a bunch of us have posted about this. There are at least three possible causes for this:

1) Some guys used protected li-ion cells that were too long, so the head contact with the body tube was not secure. I think 4sevens manufactured a thin retaining ring (for the tailswitch) to fix this.

2) Some guys loosened the head just a tiny bit, which made it easy to "bump" between tight and loose modes. Loosening the head a bit more fixes this (like Nake just said).

3) Some guys (like me) tried to run the light in Max mode with the bezel loosened, which gave problems because the contact of body and head screw threads is not great. Cleaning the threads and coating them with a lubricant to prevent oxidation helps a little bit, but the only RELIABLE solution I have found is to run with the head fully tightened, never loosened.

Check those three issues; hopefully that fixes it.

Since your quark is so easy to disassemble...would you please post some pictures of the insides...driver, reflector mounting, etc? That would be awesome! :thumbsup: Thanks.

-Jeff


----------



## hiker123 (Sep 30, 2009)

Nake said:


> If you unscrew the head 1/2 turn like the instructions say, it won't come on when you push on the head. All threads will have slop in them, and you're just taking that slop up when you push on the head. Even a 1/4 turn will do.



I have read and do understand the instructions. I have followed them as well. The problem is in a loosen mode a slight bump (say a finger tap) will switch me from low to beacon or off or moonlight mode. It doesn't happen all the time but it happens enough that it bothers me and makes me think maybe I should have invested in something better.



PeaceOfMind said:


> I think your experience here is the exception rather than the rule, as most of what I have heard and experienced about the Quarks is excellent performance out of the box. While I'm sure you could fix the issues yourself, if you're really unhappy, I'm sure 4sevens would gladly make things right in whatever way possible.



I am trying to figure out why it switches modes so easily in a loosened state. Other people seem to be having this problem as well. I have cleaned the threads and contacts to eliminate that as the source of the problem. The light still switches states easily in a loosened mode. Also the head assembly came disassembled without me try to do it. Maybe I have a really bad head assembly?



uplite said:


> Yeah, a bunch of us have posted about this. There are at least three possible causes for this:
> 
> 1) Some guys used protected li-ion cells that were too long, so the head contact with the body tube was not secure. I think 4sevens manufactured a thin retaining ring (for the tailswitch) to fix this.
> 
> ...



Thanks Jeff.
1) This is not my problem as I have never used protected li-ion cells in my QAA-2W.

2) I understand what you are saying but this isn't my problem. The light switches from say medium to moon or beacon not a loosened state mode to a tightened state mode.

3) I have a regular Quark, so I can't run it in max mode with the bezel loosened. I have cleaned the threads though, but as you said it doesn't really help. My light tightened (max mode) is fine and I can't make it fail in that state. Loosened (the modes I use mostly) is unreliable, thus the problem.

The head being so easy to disassemble sucks, but sure I'll take some pictures and post them. (Give me a bit though as I have lots going on right now).
Cheers


----------



## Nake (Sep 30, 2009)

I thought you weren't loosening the head enough. Send it back for a replacement.


----------



## Egsise (Sep 30, 2009)

My Quark AAW is also a bit sensitive when the bezel is loosened, sometimes it changes the modes with a tap or a bump.


----------



## Deegle (Oct 1, 2009)

How long must we wait for the XP-G??? Today's post on the 4Sevens site only served to tease me.


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 1, 2009)

Deegle said:


> How long must we wait for the XP-G??? Today's post on the 4Sevens site only served to tease me.



By the time the R4s get here, they will be 'obsolete'. 
We will all demand S2s, and leave R4 for warm-white
:welcome:


----------



## recDNA (Oct 1, 2009)

MichaelW said:


> By the time the R4s get here, they will be 'obsolete'.
> We will all demand S2s, and leave R4 for warm-white
> :welcome:


 
Delivery starts 10/19 right?


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 1, 2009)

By that time, you will use R3s to wipe your rear end.


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## Toohotruk (Oct 1, 2009)

MichaelW said:


> By the time the R4s get here, they will be 'obsolete'.
> We will all demand S2s, and leave R4 for warm-white
> :welcome:



Don't you mean R5s?


----------



## pobox1475 (Oct 1, 2009)

Don't know what all the *R* talk is actually about (just wooshing sound overhead) but do know that I will only settle for* warm* tints from here on out...


----------



## BentHeadTX (Oct 2, 2009)

I am waiting for a 2AA R5 (or S2) myself, a nice, light aluminum beast but it is only heavy titanium now. 

The race is on, Quark or Fenix L20 R5...


----------



## Mercury (Oct 5, 2009)

*Quark Issues*

I received a Quark AA2 Tactical in Neutral a few days ago. Service is great, fast shipping, had my light just a few days after purchase. I really like this light. There is a problem I'm having, however. 

I know from reading here and on the Everyday Carry Forums that there is an issue with the light flashing at highest output before going to set level. From everything I've read the problem is intermittent. However, in my model it happens every time I turn the flashlight on after a few moments of idle. 

My questions are: Can this be fixed? If not, can it at least be minimized? Should it be happening this often? Is this something that I just have to live with? 

I'm really enjoying this flashlight. This is the only issue I have with this light and I hope there is something I can do about it.


----------



## Mikellen (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*

On my 2AA Tactical the bright preflash will only happen if I turned the light off in the higher mode then turn the light back on in the lower mode. 
If I turn the light off in low mode then turn light back still in low mode, then there is no preflash.


----------



## Marduke (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*

The preflash has already been minimized in the design.


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## Saint_Dogbert (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*



Mikellen said:


> On my 2AA Tactical the bright preflash will only happen if I turned the light off in the higher mode then turn the light back on in the lower mode.
> If I turn the light off in low mode then turn light back still in low mode, then there is no preflash.



Pretty much the same concept with the regular series, preflash only occurs after using turbo. If it's only after a few moments, I wouldn't see it as a big problem, because your eyes are already adjusted for that higher output level. Longer, then yeah, it would be annoying.


----------



## loanshark (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*

If I look for the flash I notice it. If I'm not looking for it, no problem. How is it causing you a problem exactly? Maybe point the light at the ground when you first turn it on. Or cover the front for a second...


----------



## jahxman (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*

The quark pre-flash issue has been covered exhaustively in several threads here, try a search.

oh, and :welcome:


----------



## Mr. Tone (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*

Try programming the brightest mode in the bezel loose position, and the lower in the bezel tight position. When mine is like this it only preflashes if I turn it off in the higher and back on in the lower. Otherwise it isn't an issue. With the brightest mode being the bezel tight position I get preflash every time just like you do. I hope that helps you out.


----------



## f22shift (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*

from what i gathered from the discussion is that it's more flagrant with the tactical series compared to the regular. and i think it's preflashes the previous high setting so if it's turbo it'll be more bright.

there is no way around it and it was minimized without affecting the efficiency of the the runtime.
i hope they can address this in the future. i would buy another.

at least it's consistent. so you can alter your habits with the light.
like, put in the lower setting before you shut off. or cover up the beam with your other hand if you going into a low mode.


----------



## Henk_Lu (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*

I don't like the preflas either, but, the problem is more in the head as it is real.

Mine don't preflash on the highest output, can't tell what level, but it isn't so dramatic. However, if you use the light on moon mode or low and if you use momentary often, it will be annoying for sure. I'm afraid that you'll need another flashlight, if you can't live with it...


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*

What if a buy one today, is there any way to know for sure that I'm getting the non-preflash (2nd gen?) version?


----------



## Marduke (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*

Um, there is no "2nd gen" version. Not sure where you got that from...


----------



## DimeRazorback (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*

Like others have said, it happens mainly when turning the light off on say turbo, then turning it on moon mode...

I always have mine set on low, then go to turbo when I need it.
That eliminates the problem


----------



## Mercury (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*

Thank you all for the welcome! 

I knew the issue existed before I purchased the light. I didn't realize that it would happen as often, so I was concerned that there may be a problem with my particular light. If this behavior is normal I'll deal with it; it's still a sweet little light. 

Mr. Tone: I will try to reprogram the UI and see if that helps. Thanks for the suggestion. 

Everyone: Thank you for the replies. I hope to foster a healthy addiction to flashlights here. Because I need more things to spend the little money I have on .


----------



## defloyd77 (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*

It doesn't matter which mode you turn it off in, if you switch the mode with the light off, there is no way for the light to know this until it gets turned on, therefore it will for a split second flash in whatever level it was last on. These aren't like Fenix's tactical models where the mode changing is purely contact based, the Quarks have a memory involved, not sure if I'm explaing that right. Program your light with turbo and moon mode, turn it off in moon mode, tighten the head and turn it back on. If you watch REALLY close, you will notice a quick, fluorescent bulb like, dim then bright startup, it's just not as noticeable as a flash of turbo before a low mode. The ONLY way around it was if the circuit were to be on at all times, that way when to tighten the head, the electronics know which mode it will be on, I'll just stick to my little preflash thanks.


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## DimeRazorback (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*

I wasn't really clear.
It still flashes, however the flash is minimal compared to the big 'strobe' like flash when you want moon mode in a pitch black room :laughing:

The flickering of a fluroescent is a good comparison :thumbsup:


----------



## recDNA (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: Quark Issues*



DimeRazorback said:


> I wasn't really clear.
> It still flashes, however the flash is minimal compared to the big 'strobe' like flash when you want moon mode in a pitch black room :laughing:
> 
> The flickering of a fluroescent is a good comparison :thumbsup:


 
You know I think I'd just push the light into my leg when I turn it on in pitch darkness. It would become a habit because if I flash it when my wife is asleep...well I wouldn't forget the second time!

I remember when this first came up that there are reasons it cannot be corrected but it is too bad in such a high quality product.

If anybody is unhappy with the flash in their Ti XP-G 2 X AA please mail it to me. LOL


----------



## Toohotruk (Oct 5, 2009)

I have a regular version Q123 and use Moon mode nearly every night when I go to the bathroom, and it has never bothered me in the least...but then, my light isn't a tactical version.


----------



## duboost (Oct 13, 2009)

has anybody experienced the lens being loose and rattling? Mine all of a sudden started doing this and it's driving me nuts. This light has never been dropped or abused at all :thinking:


----------



## DimeRazorback (Oct 13, 2009)

Can't say I have :shrug:


----------



## 4sevens (Oct 13, 2009)

duboost said:


> has anybody experienced the lens being loose and rattling? Mine all of a sudden started doing this and it's driving me nuts. This light has never been dropped or abused at all :thinking:


There shouldn't be any rattles. Please contact our customer service to get this resolved.

It could the loctite in the head loosened. Remove the head from the body.
Does the head unscrew into two parts? If so, that could be the problem and 
needs to be screwed back in with loctite.


----------



## JohnR66 (Oct 13, 2009)

I'm looking to buy a Quark 2AA R2. I've seen some beam shots, but still wonder how much brighter it appears to my old L2D-CE with P4 bin LED. What I mean is in person, not with a camera. Does it seem much brighter?

My L2D is over 2-1/2 years old and it seems like the light is on the cool end of the tint as even the current department store XR-E based lights are a warmer cool white. How is the tint on the R2 Quarks been?

Finally how does the beam compare to the Fenix when shown across a yard?


----------



## duboost (Oct 14, 2009)

4sevens said:


> There shouldn't be any rattles. Please contact our customer service to get this resolved.
> 
> It could the loctite in the head loosened. Remove the head from the body.
> Does the head unscrew into two parts? If so, that could be the problem and
> needs to be screwed back in with loctite.



Thanks for the response. Is the [email protected] where i would contact customer service or is there a separate customer service email address?

Also after removing the head, it definitely doesn't unscrew into two parts like that pic on the previous page. It's all nice and snug except for the lens.


----------



## FlashInThePan (Oct 21, 2009)

Did someone say Quark 18650 body?

Ah yes - 4sevens did.

Order placed. Let the waiting begin. 

- FITP


----------



## buraianto (Oct 21, 2009)

I thought that the 123^2 body could already fit the 18650 battery. Am I misremembering?


----------



## buraianto (Oct 21, 2009)

I also see turbo versions of the tactical Quarks.  http://www.4sevens.com/index.php?cPath=297_330


----------



## Badbeams3 (Oct 21, 2009)

buraianto said:


> I also see turbo versions of the tactical Quarks.  http://www.4sevens.com/index.php?cPath=297_330



?? ??


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 21, 2009)

buraianto said:


> I thought that the 123^2 body could already fit the 18650 battery. Am I misremembering?



17670


----------



## lolzertank (Oct 24, 2009)

Would an IMR RCR123 do better in the 123 Quarks? Looking at the 30 minute runtimes, it looks like a normal RCR123 is being hit really hard by the circuit.

Anyone willing to do a quick runtime test on turbo with an IMR cell?


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 24, 2009)

lolzertank said:


> Would an IMR RCR123 do better in the 123 Quarks? Looking at the 30 minute runtimes, it looks like a normal RCR123 is being hit really hard by the circuit.
> 
> Anyone willing to do a quick runtime test on turbo with an IMR cell?



I don't think that it is a matter of intensity, but one of capacity. (RCRs may be overrated)
The 14500 in QAAx1 betters the runtime of 16340, by a good margin. Almost 50%, see link.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2993553&postcount=45


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## Boss Hogg (Oct 26, 2009)

My Quark AA tactical neutral just arrived and am quite pleased with it. Don't think the pre-flash will be much of an issue, just have to remember to turn it off in low mode which is probably the mode I'll be using more frequently anyways. For some reason I like the feel of it without the clip so I took it off, not much use for it since I'll be keeping on my nightstand. BTW, this is my first official purchase into the dark world of "flashaholicism" I'm already craving and eyeing my next purchase.


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## pobox1475 (Oct 26, 2009)

> not much use for it since I'll be keeping on my nightstand.


 Helps keep it where you lay it down. I ordered my 1st (standard warm 123) without the clip. 2nd warm tac 123(2) I reversed the clip and actually like it a lot. All in all the Quarks are great choices. Congrats :thumbsup:...


----------



## soli (Oct 30, 2009)

Could someone clarify a quick couple of UI question I have on between the AA Regular and Tactical.

1) In the Tactical model is it possible to 'click' through to the next mode or are you limited only to what ever two modes you have programmed?

2) Does the regular have a momentary on?


If as I suspect both answers are 'no', 4sevens, do you fancy making one that meets these criteria


----------



## HKJ (Oct 30, 2009)

soli said:


> Could someone clarify a quick couple of UI question I have on between the AA Regular and Tactical.
> 
> 1) In the Tactical model is it possible to 'click' through to the next mode or are you limited only to what ever two modes you have programmed?



No, you only have access to two modes at a time, to get any other mode you need go reprogram that position.



soli said:


> 2) Does the regular have a momentary on?
> 
> If as I suspect both answers are 'no', 4sevens, do you fancy making one that meets these criteria



No, but it is possible to buy a tactical tailcap and get momentary on, but do it to fast and you will change mode.


----------



## soli (Oct 30, 2009)

HKJ said:


> No, but it is possible to buy a tactical tailcap and get momentary on, but do it to fast and you will change mode.



Ah cool, I hadn't realised the tactical tail did anything more than give a raised button 

Regarding your suggestion, how can the set up change mode if you do it fast, I wasn't aware the AA had a last used memory, so momentary on should really only turn on the preset level, no?


----------



## HKJ (Oct 30, 2009)

soli said:


> Ah cool, I hadn't realised the tactical tail did anything more than give a raised button



The tactical is a forward switch, the regular is a reverse switch.



soli said:


> Regarding your suggestion, how can the set up change mode if you do it fast, I wasn't aware the AA had a last used memory, so momentary on should really only turn on the preset level, no?



Fast power interruptions is the way you select level on the regular Quark, keeping it off for a few second will reset it to the start of the sequence again.


----------



## soli (Oct 30, 2009)

HKJ said:


> Fast power interruptions is the way you select level on the regular Quark, keeping it off for a few second will reset it to the start of the sequence again.



That's how I understand it, but going from _Off_ to _Momentarily on_ is not going to introduce a power interruption* or are you going a step further an assuming a second _Momentary On_ before the reset takes place? That's the only possible way I could see a mode change happening while using Momentarily On.

Having never used a quark, this may or may not be correct, just my assumption


----------



## jankj (Oct 30, 2009)

soli said:


> That's how I understand it, but going from _Off_ to _Momentarily on_ is not going to introduce a power interruption* or are you going a step further an assuming a second _Momentary On_ before the reset takes place? That's the only possible way I could see a mode change happening while using Momentarily On.



For the regular quark, timing is everything - it makes the difference between "power interruption" and OFF. If you turn it off, then quickly on again (on - quick release - then on again) on this will be interpreted as a signal to change modes. Leave it off for a couple of seconds and it starts in the default mode (head loose: ultra low, head tightened: Max). 


This is why you have a tactical and a regular version. I like the regular, but I have no problems seeing why many prefer the tactical version, which you program to do one thing and one thing only when you press the switch. You can power interrupt and play strobe with the switch as much as you like, but you still get what's programmed. No mode change. You choose whatever you like for head loose and head tight and that's what you get. Period. Try playing tacticool and do flash - move - flash - move with a regular quark... It won't work. 


Mode memory: When on, the regular quark will remember modes when tightening / loosening the head. As an example, the head is loose and you've clicked your way to medium mode. Tighten the head to go to max to check out some movements. When you loosen the head you're in medium mode again (as long as you don't switch it off).


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## Paulinski (Oct 30, 2009)

I'm waiting for the Titanium Tactical Quark.

I have two Surefires so this is my first non SF light.


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## HKJ (Oct 30, 2009)

soli said:


> That's how I understand it, but going from _Off_ to _Momentarily on_ is not going to introduce a power interruption* or _are you going a step further an assuming a second Momentary On before the reset takes place?_ That's the only possible way I could see a mode change happening while using Momentarily On.
> 
> Having never used a quark, this may or may not be correct, just my assumption



That was exactly what I was, when I use momentary it is often with more than one flash.


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## soli (Oct 30, 2009)

jankj said:


> For the regular quark, timing is everything - it makes the difference between "power interruption" and OFF. If you turn it off, then quickly on again (on - quick release - then on again) on this will be interpreted as a signal to change modes. Leave it off for a couple of seconds and it starts in the default mode (head loose: ultra low, head tightened: Max).



I think the answer to this boils down to how my self and HKJ may possibly use Momentary On.

I would be: Off -> Momentary On -> Off 
HKJ seems to have a need to: Off -> Momentary On -> Off -> Momentary On (in quick succession which by the sounds of it results in a mode change)


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## soli (Oct 30, 2009)

HKJ said:


> That was exactly what I was, when I use momentary it is often with more than one flash.



That clears that up, thanks


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## kwkarth (Oct 30, 2009)

HKJ said:


> No, you only have access to two modes at a time, to get any other mode you need go reprogram that position.
> 
> 
> 
> No, but it is possible to buy a tactical tailcap and get momentary on, but do it to fast and you will change mode.



With the tactical lights, which come with the tactical forward clicky, momentary on is indeed possible. I would be considered a normal use of the tactical models.


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## bcwang (Oct 30, 2009)

duboost said:


> Also after removing the head, it definitely doesn't unscrew into two parts like that pic on the previous page. It's all nice and snug except for the lens.



Hmm, does your lens rotate freely in the head now? and can you simply wiggle it around? 

4sevens,

Is the lens pressed against the edge by the reflector? Meaning, should it be not possible to break the seal of the head by pressing down on the lens?

My concern is if you hold the flashlight the wrong way and try to click but end up pushing down on the lens, is it going to break the watertight seal? Because once I did that and I felt movement or heard something shift, not sure if anything was compromised.


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## soli (Nov 10, 2009)

HKJ said:


> No, but it is possible to buy a tactical tailcap and get momentary on, but do it to fast and you will change mode.



For the archives, Now that my Quark AA Regular and Tactical Tail have arrived I'll add to HKJ's post.

While you can _momentary on_ with the tactical tail on the Regular AA. Once you have done a full click on, you can not half press to change modes as you can with the regular tail, you have to full click off and back on.


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## yowzer (Nov 10, 2009)

I've had a standard AA for a while, but it's never really clicked with me. I only use it camping, because it's a neutral white one and I like that tint in the woods, or when I want the moonlight mode... otherwise, it hasn't come close to challenging my trusty D10 as my main EDC light. 

I finally figured out what's bugging me about it (Besides those silly strobe/beacon/SOS modes). If the standard UI had a last-mode memorization, so that it turns on in the same level as when it was turned off, instead of always in moonlight, I think I'd like it a lot more.


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## pobox1475 (Nov 10, 2009)

^ I got a standard warm 123 first. Warm tac 123x2 after. I don't get out as much as I would like to and the 123 is in it's case on my EDB strap. I use the 123x2 tac much more around the house and much prefer the configuration as I hate blinking modes that are not buried. As far as tint, I love them.


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## Boss Hogg (Nov 12, 2009)

For some reason my Quark AA NW tactical can be programmed with just 3 turns of the bezel. Does anybody else have the same thing happen?...is it a problem? I mean for me 3 turns is better than having to turn it 4 times.


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## mwaldron (Nov 14, 2009)

4Sevens as announced the Quark RGB with MC-E LED.

Even better, they're doing it in both Neutral and White!

4Sevens Product Page

YouTube Video

Pre-order today, delivery ~ December 1 according to the email.

It's a bit pricey for a Quark but it's feature set and neutral option has my attention and my pre-order as soon as I scrape up the coin.


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## Mr. Tone (Nov 14, 2009)

yowzer said:


> I finally figured out what's bugging me about it (Besides those silly strobe/beacon/SOS modes). If the standard UI had a last-mode memorization, so that it turns on in the same level as when it was turned off, instead of always in moonlight, I think I'd like it a lot more.


 
I have both the regular and tactical Quarks in AA and neutral. The tactical is very nice for not having to mess with unneeded or used modes. You just turn it on right were you want it, every time. I have no problem with reprogramming if needed, but 90% of the time I have it set to high(bezel tight) and medium(bezel loose). I use it on high most, because you have around 3 hours of regulated output on 14500.


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## Flyhigh (Nov 14, 2009)

Hi all,

I've just gotten my TI 123 regular and it looks and feels nice. However I do have a problem which I hope you can help me with so I don't have to send the light back.

The moonlight and medium levels seem to be missing in action. Instead, I have two low levels and two high levels. The light goes on in medium instead of in moonlight mode and then when I press the button nothing changes, the light blinks once but levels remain the same and the same thing happens on high, after that it continuous as its supposed to with S.O.S., strobe etc. 

I'm also wondering about batteries. When I'm using a RCR123 battery the high level is very bright but when using a primary it is really dim (I've tried with several batteries and makes). Is this normal?

Best

Karl


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## pjandyho (Nov 14, 2009)

mwaldron said:


> 4Sevens as announced the Quark RGB with MC-E LED.
> 
> Even better, they're doing it in both Neutral and White!
> 
> ...



It was cool at first look. The RGB and white all in one package. Neat is what I would say. On the other hand, the user interface is real stupid. Why would I need to click through all the different stages just to access the mode that I need?

As an example, strobe was first designed mainly for tactical reasons to not only blind but disorientate an adversary. In the case of an LEO, does he have to click through all the stages to access strobe features just to blind an adversary? And later on having made an arrest that he have to click through a few stages to low just to do the paper works? That to me is the most brainless design one could have ever came up with. Talk about all the flashing going on just to change colors in a tactical situation? You'd probably be blinded before you use the light.

I am a fan of 4sevens, and also having ordered a Quark tactical I fell in love with 4sevens even more. But lately I do see 4sevens coming up with newer designs that are really impractical and is more of a gimmick than practical or tactical operational lights. Just take the Quark mini for example, twisting the bezel so many times through all the modes and repeat them a second time before one could set it to strobe, SOS, or beacon? Anyway, who needs a strobe on clearly a light made for the pocket and general use?

I say, give me a Quark RGB with only 3 modes. Moonlight, medium, and turbo and I would be buying a piece or 2 for keep sake. I do really like the 3 colors and white in a package but it is a real shame the UI have to be so impractical.

And with the so many modes to click through would only mean more wear and tear on the clickie. Not like Quark uses very good clickies. I have seen countless people complaining about their clickies failing them. My friend was just complaining to me today that he received a Quark Turbo that was DOA due to clickie issue. So, what's all the hype about?


----------



## the.Mtn.Man (Nov 14, 2009)

mwaldron said:


> 4Sevens as announced the Quark RGB with MC-E LED.


That just seems silly. Are flashlights tools or toys? It's hard to tell sometimes.


----------



## HKJ (Nov 14, 2009)

pjandyho said:


> In the case of an LEO, does he have to click through all the stages to access strobe features just to blind an adversary? And later on having made an arrest that he have to click through a few stages to low just to do the paper works? That to me is the most brainless design one could have ever came up with.



I would think, that the LEO selecting that kind of light for tactical usage, would be the one to call brainless. Not all lights are designed for tactical usage and this one is definitely not, it is designed to be a multifunction, multicolored light, maybe it could be called "Jack of all trades, master of none".


----------



## pjandyho (Nov 14, 2009)

HKJ said:


> I would think, that the LEO selecting that kind of light for tactical usage, would be the one to call brainless. Not all lights are designed for tactical usage and this one is definitely not, it is designed to be a multifunction, multicolored light, maybe it could be called "Jack of all trades, master of none".


True. But who needs strobes? SOS? Beacons? If I want any of these I would rather get the Inova 24/7. But that said, the different colors are cool. I just dislike the way the colors are changed.


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## mwaldron (Nov 14, 2009)

pjandyho said:


> It was cool at first look. The RGB and white all in one package. Neat is what I would say. On the other hand, the user interface is real stupid. Why would I need to click through all the different stages just to access the mode that I need?



Yeah, the UI is over-complicated to me, and the idea of strobe and sos never really appeals to me on any light. I'd also prefer a simpler low-med-high on each color. 



the.Mtn.Man said:


> That just seems silly. Are flashlights tools or toys? It's hard to tell sometimes.



No question in my mind this one is a toy, at least for me. Others of course will have other opinions but for me it's a pure toy. I do like having a nice Red/White light but one of my A2s fill that niche nicely on the high end and I have several Coast 3xAAA lights that do quite well on the low end.

This will also be my first Quark, so I get to have my first experience with Quark's quality and workmanship. I know 4Sevens has great customer service, but I'm hoping for a little better than Fenix quality.


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## HKJ (Nov 14, 2009)

pjandyho said:


> True. But who needs strobes? SOS? Beacons? If I want any of these I would rather get the Inova 24/7. But that said, the different colors are cool. I just dislike the way the colors are changed.



Even if you do not like or need the flashing modes, there are other people that likes them and needs them.
I think the user interface is a rather good design, simple to remember and simple to use. It is not optimized for fast access to any specific mode, but it is possible to locate any mode and any color without having to learn and remember much.


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## Moonshadow (Nov 14, 2009)

Bummer. I was really looking forward to the RGB as I need a good red / white light for astronomy.

But _three_ strobe modes to cycle through every time ? That's just nuts ! That makes it completely unusable for me. 

Why couldn't they have programmed the strobes out-of-the-way like on the Preon ? Hell, they could have used the same code !

And worst of all - it's a reverse clicky :sick2:  :green:

Shame. I was really looking forward to this one. :sigh:


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## pobox1475 (Nov 14, 2009)

I really want one, but my standard 123 and it's cycle through blinks annoy me. Will have to make due with my tac warm 123x2 with it's hideaway blinks.


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## kwkarth (Nov 14, 2009)

pjandyho said:


> It was cool at first look. The RGB and white all in one package. Neat is what I would say. On the other hand, the user interface is real stupid. Why would I need to click through all the different stages just to access the mode that I need?
> 
> As an example, strobe was first designed mainly for tactical reasons to not only blind but disorientate an adversary. In the case of an LEO, does he have to click through all the stages to access strobe features just to blind an adversary? And later on having made an arrest that he have to click through a few stages to low just to do the paper works? That to me is the most brainless design one could have ever came up with. Talk about all the flashing going on just to change colors in a tactical situation? You'd probably be blinded before you use the light.
> 
> ...



I would not assume that this was a tactical light from the description, it's of more value as an investigative or recon tool. Tactical, it is not.


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## kwkarth (Nov 14, 2009)

Moonshadow said:


> Bummer. I was really looking forward to the RGB as I need a good red / white light for astronomy.
> 
> But _three_ strobe modes to cycle through every time ? That's just nuts ! That makes it completely unusable for me.
> 
> ...



It's a Quark. You can lego what you want! Further, for astronomy, set to moon mode with bezel covered, then choose needed color. Where's the problem?


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Nov 14, 2009)

I use my old Energizer Head Light with a slide switch and one Red and two "white" LEDs on the red side for nitetime bathroom runs.

That is the ONLY time I ever use a color besides white (or blue tinted 5mm).

A light like the RGB MC-E has NO interest to me.

STILL want a Quark AA Standard!!!


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## HKJ (Nov 14, 2009)

Moonshadow said:


> Bummer. I was really looking forward to the RGB as I need a good red / white light for astronomy.
> 
> But _three_ strobe modes to cycle through every time ? That's just nuts ! That makes it completely unusable for me.



Why do you need to cycle through all the modes? You could just set the white for one brightness and the colored for red and another brightness. The light will remember these settings.
Then all you have to do is loosen or tighten the head.


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## tsask (Nov 14, 2009)

:thumbsup:


mwaldron said:


> 4Sevens as announced the Quark RGB with MC-E LED.
> 
> Even better, they're doing it in both Neutral and White!
> 
> ...


 
I just saw it! I know the $$$ feeling. It seems like almost every other week I am happily suprised to learn of a new Quark/4 Sevens product development. 

So far I have a neutral CR123 & AA and my AA Titanium just arrived.
It's beautiful and feels great to hold!, yet IMHO my neutral Quark CR123 seems to throw with a bit more power. Could it be my the tint and colour rendition? (I am lighting my keyboard with the Titanium Quark on a 14500 medium setting as I type)

That RGB version of course is yet another "must have". I'll definitely opt for the neutral version.

Good things keep coming from the good folks at 4 Sevens!:twothumbs


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## pjandyho (Nov 14, 2009)

HKJ said:


> Why do you need to cycle through all the modes? You could just set the white for one brightness and the colored for red and another brightness. The light will remember these settings.
> Then all you have to do is loosen or tighten the head.


If you go through the video you will realize that the brightness setting applies across the board for all colors. That means if I set medium for white, all R, G, and B would be set at medium. So if I set the light to turbo mode, all colors would be on turbo.


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## pjandyho (Nov 14, 2009)

kwkarth said:


> I would not assume that this was a tactical light from the description, it's of more value as an investigative or recon tool. Tactical, it is not.


I understand what you meant. When I look at the light, the first question in my mind is "Is this supposed to be a tactical light or what?". I want to believe that it is a general purpose light but the strobe mode just seems to scream "TACTICAL!" at me. I for one cannot imagine why one would need a strobe. I mean the only time I ever saw someone use a strobe is on the bicycle. For all purpose and intent, strobe was never made for any usage other than tactical purposes.

I may have given a wrong impression in my earlier post that I am an LEO. I am not. What I meant is the many modes to cycle through the light makes it hard to use. Could have just do away with strobe, SOS, and beacon. And instead of moon mode, low, medium, high, and turbo, we could just have moon, medium, and turbo. High is a mode which non of us really would bother to use anyway. The majority of us would rather set the light to medium or low on top of turbo. With the reduction of redundant features, it would make the light so much more easier to operate.

Anyway, to each his own. If not for the fact that I wanted it for the different color spectrum I would not have bothered to rant. Why would I bother if I am not interested in the light? It is just a shame that a good light has to be "spoilt" with silly features.


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## kwkarth (Nov 15, 2009)

pjandyho said:


> I understand what you meant. When I look at the light, the first question in my mind is "Is this supposed to be a tactical light or what?". I want to believe that it is a general purpose light but the strobe mode just seems to scream "TACTICAL!" at me. I for one cannot imagine why one would need a strobe. I mean the only time I ever saw someone use a strobe is on the bicycle. For all purpose and intent, strobe was never made for any usage other than tactical purposes.
> 
> I may have given a wrong impression in my earlier post that I am an LEO. I am not. What I meant is the many modes to cycle through the light makes it hard to use. Could have just do away with strobe, SOS, and beacon. And instead of moon mode, low, medium, high, and turbo, we could just have moon, medium, and turbo. High is a mode which non of us really would bother to use anyway. The majority of us would rather set the light to medium or low on top of turbo. With the reduction of redundant features, it would make the light so much more easier to operate.
> 
> Anyway, to each his own. If not for the fact that I wanted it for the different color spectrum I would not have bothered to rant. Why would I bother if I am not interested in the light? It is just a shame that a good light has to be "spoilt" with silly features.



I agree. The UI should either remove or hide the superfluous modes. 

Even with it the way it is, I think once its modalities and operation are well understood, it can become second nature to use, however, any light such a complicated UI should never be used or relied upon in a critical hand to hand situation, ever. 

That's why I take the liberty of saying this is not a tactical light regardless of what features it has on it. That's not a knock against this light either. It is what it is, and to try and use is for, or complain about its suitability for any purpose other than what it is intended is a waste of time and asking for trouble.

With a forward clicky, preselecting the right mode should be pretty easy to do and quickly become so second nature. The light could be operated so quickly, that someone watching you put it through it's paces would never become aware of what you were doing to make things happen.

By the way, the only clickie failures with Quarks I'm aware of have to do with the switch retained ring not being screwed down tightly. Easily fixed by the user, but the lights should never pass QC that way. A torque setting must be being used on the wrench for assembly to not strip the threads and the retaining ring torque varies all over the place to tighten the retainer down all the way, so a torque setting stop is not the right way to assemble these unless it's set a lot higher than what it is currently.


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## Jason_Tx (Nov 15, 2009)

IMO -- a light with strobe does not "SCREAM TACTICAL" --
It screams "toy that civilians think is tacticool" or "uber paintballer thinks he's Gunny Hathcock" or "traffic alert device"
I know of no one kicking doors in Iraq / Afghanistan that would dream of using a strobe. 
I know of not a single LEO that uses a strobe and many of which laugh at the idea. 
Tactical just means tactics. A tactic is calculated maneuver used to gain advantage over a given situation. Ambush is a tactic, NV is a tactical device. Strobe -- not so much, unless your tactic is to let everyone know where your at, or to disorient someone as well as yourself ... neither of which give you an advantage in a dangerous situation.

That being said, I am not against people making / wanting / having lights with strobes. Its a great and wonderful thing to have it your way in our free market society. I do believe that strobes have their place and are useful in that place. To alert traffic if you have a flat / wreck, to get someones attention that is some ways away, to signal others in an outdoor enviroment, just to name a few. 
But as tactical, I just can't see how. 

I do like the UI's that allow you to leave the flashies hidden. 
If they make the quark mini in a warm tint, I'll definately get one. I really like their look and that the flashies are hidden.
If the quark regular 2x123 wasn't overpriced, I'd have one of those in warm, if for nothing else but for the moon mode


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## HKJ (Nov 15, 2009)

pjandyho said:


> If you go through the video you will realize that the brightness setting applies across the board for all colors. That means if I set medium for white, all R, G, and B would be set at medium. So if I set the light to turbo mode, all colors would be on turbo.



I do not get that impression, I believe that it memorizes 3 seperate values:
Brightness for white
Selected color
Brightness for color




pjandyho said:


> I for one cannot imagine why one would need a strobe. I mean the only time I ever saw someone use a strobe is on the bicycle. For all purpose and intent, strobe was never made for any usage other than tactical purposes.



You have already mentioned bicycle, another non-tactical purpose is marking a stopped vehicle on the road. The common theme with using strobe is making you more visible, especially when there are other lights around.


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## Moonshadow (Nov 15, 2009)

> It's a Quark. You can lego what you want! Further, for astronomy, set to moon mode with bezel covered, then choose needed color. Where's the problem?



OK, so I could put a forward clicky, but I'll be switching on and off frequently (to inspect a control or a star chart). Having to wait 3 or 4 seconds between uses is not acceptable. And neither is the risk of getting strobed if I don't wait for long enough.



> Why do you need to cycle through all the modes? You could just set the white for one brightness and the colored for red and another brightness. The light will remember these settings.
> Then all you have to do is loosen or tighten the head.



I'll be adjusting the light level constantly. Quite often I'll need a higher brightness for walking about the site outdoors, and then a much lower level whilst working on the telescope in the dome itself. I can assure you that strobing everyone inside the dome whilst switching from high to low would not be popular !

And no, holding it against your leg whilst cycling through the unwanted modes is not acceptable. Not in a $100 light.



> What I meant is the many modes to cycle through the light makes it hard to use. Could have just do away with strobe, SOS, and beacon. And instead of moon mode, low, medium, high, and turbo, we could just have moon, medium, and turbo. High is a mode which non of us really would bother to use anyway. The majority of us would rather set the light to medium or low on top of turbo. With the reduction of redundant features, it would make the light so much more easier to operate.





> The UI should either remove or hide the superfluous modes.



What they said.


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## pobox1475 (Nov 15, 2009)

> That RGB version of course is yet another "must have". I'll definitely opt for the neutral version.


 Almost feel the same. Would be nice to have colors to use around house at night.



> I do like the UI's that allow you to leave the flashies hidden.
> If they make the quark mini in a warm tint, I'll definitely get one.


 +1 on both accounts. I am assuming the warm RGB will be a standard stocked item. Didn't see any mention of limited edition. This being the case I _may_ get one after the dust settles.



> If the quark regular 2x123 wasn't overpriced, I'd have one of those in warm, if for nothing else but for the moon mode


 I'm pretty tight $ wise and thought $69 was reasonable. I have both warm standard 123 and tac 123x2 and much prefer the tac UI. Set it to tight head high, loose head max. Low settings are easy enough to access IMO.


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## f22shift (Nov 15, 2009)

HKJ said:


> I do not get that impression, I believe that it memorizes 3 seperate values:
> Brightness for white
> Selected color
> Brightness for color
> ...


 
that's my impression too.
basically functions like a quark reg in the modes but memorizes that setting.
then twist for color which memorizes it's own setting.
twist fast to alternate colors.

i think the ui is pretty good considering what can be adjusted physically and what can be accomplished in the settings.

i do see this as a one off, limited light. basically showing off what can be accomplished. like a sports car. hardly practical in a practical sense but fun to play with.
i would get one if they offered some aa version. maybe a 3aa tube with the same head.


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## burntoshine (Nov 15, 2009)

the.Mtn.Man said:


> That just seems silly. Are flashlights tools or toys? It's hard to tell sometimes.



both.


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## the.Mtn.Man (Nov 15, 2009)

Moonshadow said:


> Bummer. I was really looking forward to the RGB as I need a good red / white light for astronomy.


Why not buy yourself a decent light and just slap a red filter on the front? Back in the day my dad used a piece of red fabric and a rubber band.


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## boojum (Nov 15, 2009)

Jason_Tx said:


> If they make the quark mini in a warm tint, I'll definately get one. I really like their look and that the flashies are hidden.



I know that some posters have signature lines stating we need commitments from people for a neutral white run of the Mini Quark AA series. Well, David of 4sevens has responded over at the CPF Marketplace forums with a time table for contingent pre-orders based on the response we already have. I count that we need only 19 more neutral white Mini Quark AA orders to read the "contingent pre-order" stage, and a number of new commitments have been coming in since David's post. I'm not even counting the commitments for neutral white Mini Quark 123, since the Mini Quark AA commitments are leading.



4sevens said:


> If we hit 100, I'll open a "contingent" pre-order and take orders for 2 weeks. Once we get payments from everyone who committed here we'll put in into production which should be about 3 weeks including procuring the neutral white led's. If we don't get a pre-order from everyone who committed here or 100 orders, then we'll refund everyone  Sounds fair?



If anyone is interested in a neutral white Quark Mini AA, it looks as though this will happen imminently.


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## Moonshadow (Nov 16, 2009)

> Why not buy yourself a decent light and just slap a red filter on the front? Back in the day my dad used a piece of red fabric and a rubber band.



Got plenty of those: F05 on the front of the RA Clicky or a D20 works well, but a red filter on an LED is pretty inefficient so you're throwing away runtime. Besides, it would be have been nice to have an all-in one solution to avoid having to carry filters around. Might not seem much, but fiddling around in the dark with filters is more hassle than it sounds, especially if you've got an armful of equipment and what-have-you.


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## pobox1475 (Nov 16, 2009)

> I count that we need only 19 more neutral white Mini Quark AA orders to read the "contingent pre-order" stage


 Link me to it. I will get one for my son. You think availability for X-Mass might be possible?


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## dilbert (Nov 16, 2009)

pobox1475 said:


> Link me to it. I will get one for my son. You think availability for X-Mass might be possible?


 
*4Sevens Quark MiNi AA - Neutral Tint *


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## *Zander* (Nov 20, 2009)

Moonshadow said:


> Besides, it would be have been nice to have an all-in one solution to avoid having to carry filters around.



I believe you should have a look at this:

*Quark RGB*


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## Purrkieset (Nov 21, 2009)

I'm sure this has been asked before but,

What Quark has the best throw?

Would it be this one? 

http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=297_306&products_id=1654


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## Nake (Nov 21, 2009)

Purrkieset said:


> I'm sure this has been asked before but,
> 
> What Quark has the best throw?
> 
> ...


 
Best throw would be the Turbo Quark, but only about 5% more than the XP-E Quarks. The one you link to would be worse than the ones I mention.


----------



## Purrkieset (Nov 21, 2009)

Nake said:


> Best throw would be the Turbo Quark, but only about 5% more than the XP-E Quarks. The one you link to would be worse than the ones I mention.



Turbo Quarks aside, which would throw best?

What about the "newer" XP-G R5 emitters? Is there any difference from the XP-E R2?


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## NutSAK (Nov 21, 2009)

Due to the size of the emitter, the XP-G has a floodier beam than the smaller die XP-E.


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## Moonshadow (Nov 21, 2009)

*Zander* said:


> I believe you should have a look at this:
> 
> *Quark RGB*



Thanks Zander. The RGB is actually what I was referring to on the previous page. The problem is the UI - see posts 163 to 175.


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## Nake (Nov 21, 2009)

Purrkieset said:


> Turbo Quarks aside, which would throw best?
> 
> What about the "newer" XP-G R5 emitters? Is there any difference from the XP-E R2?


 
I campared my Quark 123 against my Ti Quark 123. With the Q123 XP-E R2 the spot lux was 4500, with the Ti XP-G R5 it was 3000. Overall the XP-G is brighter though.


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## boojum (Nov 21, 2009)

dilbert said:


> pobox1475 said:
> 
> 
> > > I count that we need only 19 more neutral white Mini Quark AA orders to read the "contingent pre-order" stage
> ...



I'll just note that the preorders for the Custom 4Sevens Quark MiNi AA - Neutral White Q3 5B opened two days ago. If you place an order, please include your CPF user name in the comments section of the order, and post to the linked thread afterwards so that we can keep a count.


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## kwkarth (Nov 21, 2009)

Nake said:


> Best throw would be the Turbo Quark, but only about 5% more than the XP-E Quarks. The one you link to would be worse than the ones I mention.



I hope we're not confusing throw and overall brightness. IME, the R5's throw about as far as the R2 generation but since they put out more light, the beam is floodier, but carries just about as far because of the extra brightness. That said, the Turbo is the clear winner because it has the extra brightness of the XP-G R5 AND the tight beam profile (focus) of the XP-E Quark.


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## Nake (Nov 21, 2009)

kwkarth said:


> I hope we're not confusing throw and overall brightness. IME, the R5's throw about as far as the R2 generation but since they put out more light, the beam is floodier, but carries just about as far because of the extra brightness. That said, the Turbo is the clear winner because it has the extra brightness of the XP-G R5 AND the tight beam profile (focus) of the XP-E Quark.


 
I'm not confusing them. The spot lux on the lights I measured is considerably brighter with the XP-E than with the XP-G.


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## kwkarth (Nov 21, 2009)

Nake said:


> I'm not confusing them. The spot lux on the lights I measured is considerably brighter with the XP-E than with the XP-G.



At what distance was the measurement made and at what point in the hotspot? Dead center or in the brightest area near the corona?


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## Nake (Nov 21, 2009)

kwkarth said:


> At what distance was the measurement made and at what point in the hotspot? Dead center or in the brightest area near the corona?


 

At 40". I just centered the hotspot on a 1" sensor.


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## recDNA (Nov 21, 2009)

I love floody lights so I'm happy Quark is changing the entire line to XP-G R5's but I hope all the fans of throwers know about the sale 4Sevens has going on on its XP-E R2 version of the Quark line. I think they are better throwers and once sold are gone forever.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Nov 21, 2009)

I've always been a beam quality type guy than an all out brightness type guy.

Sounds like XP-G is right up my alley!


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## Purrkieset (Nov 21, 2009)

So what's the end result?

Do the R2's or the R5's throw better? 

I was going to order the R5 but people saying the R2 is a better thrower has me worried.


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## recDNA (Nov 22, 2009)

PlayboyJoeShmoe said:


> I've always been a beam quality type guy than an all out brightness type guy.
> 
> Sounds like XP-G is right up my alley!


 
I love the beam from the XP-G R5. Just be aware it is sometimes greenish if you haven't heard. I'm used to it now but at first it drove me nuts. I can't wait until a neutral white XP-G comes out.


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## Swordforthelord (Nov 22, 2009)

Purrkieset said:


> So what's the end result?
> 
> Do the R2's or the R5's throw better?
> 
> I was going to order the R5 but people saying the R2 is a better thrower has me worried.



The R2's throw better but the Turbo, though it has an R5, still has the best throw because of it's much larger, smooth reflector.


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## Cato (Nov 22, 2009)

Help!! Just got an AA Quark-T but it won't click constant on. It puzzles me as the momentary function works perfect. Seems my tailcap is defect. Would hate to send it back (customs hazzle)- any chance I could tinker it my own? Its a major bummer- thought that QC was splendid with the Quarks and this is the most basic function of a flashlight.


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## PeaceOfMind (Nov 22, 2009)

Cato said:


> Help!! Just got an AA Quark-T but it won't click constant on. It puzzles me as the momentary function works perfect. Seems my tailcap is defect. Would hate to send it back (customs hazzle)- any chance I could tinker it my own? Its a major bummer- thought that QC was splendid with the Quarks and this is the most basic function of a flashlight.


 
Open up the tailcap and tighten the retaining ring inside. This is the most common cause of this type of problem, and sounds like it is the problem here.

Just get some tweezers or thin needle nose pliers, and use them to grip the two indents on the ring inside the tailcap. Tighten the ring down, and let us know if that fixed it.


----------



## sabre7 (Nov 22, 2009)

Sorry if I missed it, any word on 14500s in the Mini AA?


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## Cato (Nov 22, 2009)

Thanks for the tip! If I fu... up, is this covered by the warranty?


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## PeaceOfMind (Nov 22, 2009)

Cato said:


> Thanks for the tip! If I fu... up, is this covered by the warranty?


 
Well, I can't think of a way that you could screw up that would damage anything permanantly. The tailcap is obviously meant to come off, and you don't have to dissassemble anything else to get to the ring. You'd have to do something pretty bizarre to do any damage.

And seeing as 4Sevens sells boot kits that are meant to be user-installable that require more tailcap disassembly than this, I don't think you have anything to worry about.

Plus, I'm betting this will fix it .


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## windmill (Nov 24, 2009)

recDNA said:


> I love the beam from the XP-G R5. Just be aware it is sometimes greenish if you haven't heard. I'm used to it now but at first it drove me nuts. I can't wait until a neutral white XP-G comes out.



I am too waiting with trepidation for a neutral white XP-G Quark! 

I've asked Mr David Chow and maby if the demand of this kind of light will be enough they will think of manufacturing some.. 

I really hope so! :huh: 

4sevens pleease, I think that even here on CPF you will find enough people to empty your stocks!!  

:wave:


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## pjandyho (Nov 24, 2009)

windmill said:


> I am too waiting with trepidation for a neutral white XP-G Quark!
> 
> I've asked Mr David Chow and maby if the demand of this kind of light will be enough they will think of manufacturing some..
> 
> ...


My exact sentiments. I love the Q3-5A Quark so much I am wishing David would do the Quark in neutral white XP-G. I would definitely be one of them who would put my money into it.


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## B0wz3r (Nov 24, 2009)

sabre7 said:


> Sorry if I missed it, any word on 14500s in the Mini AA?



To my knowledge, yes. I believe it's mentioned in the announcing post for this thread. Should be fully regulated, and provide a boost on the max setting at least. If I remember correctly the circuit is the same as what's in the Preons, so with a 3+ volt 14500 you should get the same level of output on max as the 2xAAA Preon which is about 160 lumens OTF. It might even output the same level as the Mini 123 which is about 185 lumen OTF. Not sure about the run times with a 14500 though, but I'm certain some of the other electronically talented/knowledgeable folks here could provide you with a good estimate of what kind of run times you can expect with a 14500.


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## pobox1475 (Nov 24, 2009)

^ It *will* get hot. David announced in another post that when it starts to get uncomfortable to hold bare handed then it's time to _back off_. Because of the minuscule size of the body there is not enough material to act as a good heat sink.


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## dwhitebird (Nov 24, 2009)

What light do you have the XPG-R5 in?


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## Swordforthelord (Nov 25, 2009)

pjandyho said:


> My exact sentiments. I love the Q3-5A Quark so much I am wishing David would do the Quark in neutral white XP-G. I would definitely be one of them who would put my money into it.



A lot of people would like that, but 4Sevens makes flashlights, not emitters. David's said more than once that Cree may or may not ever produce the XP-G in neutral or warm.


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## the.Mtn.Man (Dec 8, 2009)

Question for anybody who knows the answer:

My Quark AA will occasionally flicker on high power. I haven't seen this behavior on any of the lower modes or even turbo, only high, and it only happens occasionally and only for a few seconds before the lights shines steadily. Has anybody else seen anything like this? I hesitate to send it in for repair because I have no idea how to duplicate the behavior at will and it will most likely be returned to me without anything being done. I've cleaned the threads, and the light is in good working order otherwise, it's just that it occasionaly flickers on high power.

Comments?


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## pjandyho (Dec 8, 2009)

the.Mtn.Man said:


> Question for anybody who knows the answer:
> 
> My Quark AA will occasionally flicker on high power. I haven't seen this behavior on any of the lower modes or even turbo, only high, and it only happens occasionally and only for a few seconds before the lights shines steadily. Has anybody else seen anything like this? I hesitate to send it in for repair because I have no idea how to duplicate the behavior at will and it will most likely be returned to me without anything being done. I've cleaned the threads, and the light is in good working order otherwise, it's just that it occasionaly flickers on high power.
> 
> Comments?


I am not the expert but just thought it could be due to the battery type. What batteries are you using? NiMH? Eneloop? AA Alkaline? or 14500 Li Ion? Sometimes flickering issues could be caused by a weak cell or the cell could be working extra hard to supply the power to the unit. One might get better results using 14500 Li Ion as it is rated 3.7 volts and a fully charge one should give you about 4.15 to 4.2 volts.


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## the.Mtn.Man (Dec 8, 2009)

I have an Energizer Ultimate Lithium in it. I did consider that it could be the battery, and if so, I would expect other people to have experienced the same thing which is why I asked.


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## kwkarth (Dec 8, 2009)

If you EVER have ANY flickering issues in ANY light, the very first thing to suspect is cleanliness of the entire conduction path that the current traverses to actually provide power to the LED. 

So, after you check the batteries, make sure the springs and contacts, the ends of the aluminum or Ti tube are clean, and ideally, protected by something like Caig Pro Gold. Make sure the retainer ring for the tail switch is clean, with the retainer ring threads treated with Pro Gold, and screwed down good and tight. Make sure to lube all threads and o-rings.

If everything I've mentioned is ship shape, and you still see problems, then you have something wrong with your light for which you should return it for warranty replacement


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## pjandyho (Dec 8, 2009)

kwkarth said:


> If you EVER have ANY flickering issues in ANY light, the very first thing to suspect is cleanliness of the entire conductions path the current traverses to actually provide power to the LED. So, after you check the batteries, make sure the springs and contacts, the ends of the aluminum or Ti tube are clean, and ideally, protected by something ling Caig Pro Gold. Make sure the retainer ring for the tail switch is clean, with the threads treated with Pro Gold, and screwed down good and tight. If everything I've mentioned is ship shape, then you have something wrong with your light for which you should return it for warranty replacement


+1 to that.


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## the.Mtn.Man (Dec 8, 2009)

kwkarth said:


> If you EVER have ANY flickering issues in ANY light, the very first thing to suspect is cleanliness of the entire conductions path the current traverses to actually provide power to the LED. So, after you check the batteries, make sure the springs and contacts, the ends of the aluminum or Ti tube are clean, and ideally, protected by something ling Caig Pro Gold. Make sure the retainer ring for the tail switch is clean, with the threads treated with Pro Gold, and screwed down good and tight. If everything I've mentioned is ship shape, then you have something wrong with your light for which you should return it for warranty replacement


The light is less than a month old. I can't imagine it could have gotten sufficiently dirty to affect its performance.


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## kwkarth (Dec 8, 2009)

the.Mtn.Man said:


> The light is less than a month old. I can't imagine it could have gotten sufficiently dirty to affect its performance.



Often I have found new lights from every manufacturer perform MUCH better after a good tune up as I described above. It's the first thing I do when receiving a new light after checking basic functionality.


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## Toohotruk (Dec 8, 2009)

kwkarth said:


> Often I have found new lights from every manufacturer perform MUCH better after a good tune up as I described above. It's the first thing I do when receiving a new light after checking basic functionality.




+1 Same with me...and Pro-Gold is a MUST. It can make a big difference in performance and reliability, so I hit every contact surface on every light shortly after taking ownership. :thumbsup:


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## cslinger (Dec 9, 2009)

1st and foremost. Is DHart the same DHart who is also a gunny and posts on many of those forums and if so what happened? Always seemed like a well spoken good guy, my condolances, for whatever he is going through. 

2nd as to the guy with the light issue I would almost bet it is the little retaining ring in the tailcap being loose, doesn't matter new or not I have seen them loose from the factory on other lights. I don't own a quark but I am guessing it will have a couple dimples that will allow you to use some needle nose pliers or similar to tighten it down. Do this and I bet your issues subside. Check this every once in a while.


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## Toohotruk (Dec 9, 2009)

cslinger said:


> 1st and foremost. Is DHart the same DHart who is also a gunny and posts on many of those forums and if so what happened? Always seemed like a well spoken good guy, my condolances, for whatever he is going through...




I'm not sure he's the same guy, but here is a link to what happened:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/251670&page=8


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## the.Mtn.Man (Dec 24, 2009)

Well, I narrowed down the flickering to a switch problem. I found that when the light was on high or maximum that lightly pressing the switch but without changing modes would cause a flicker, like it was bouncing between high/max and one of the lower modes. Probably something to do with the LED not getting enough juice since I couldn't get it to flicker on the lower modes. Curiously, after figuring out how to reproduce the problem (much easier to get repairs done if you can tell the tech how to reproduce the problem) it suddenly stopped, so it seems that whatever it was worked itself out. Maybe a piece of gunk was on the switch contact causing a reduction in current flow. Who knows.


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## antiplex (Jun 6, 2010)

dear cpf-members,

its almost a year now that i received my 4sevens quark 2AA so i thought i give a little feedback bout my feelings regarding this light.

first of all, i'm really satisfied and would definitely get that light again.
its been under heavy use for about a year and still works like a charm and almost looks like fresh out of the box.

this piece has become a real comrade that i take almost everywhere i go since its flexible, efficient and reliable.
my quark has seen everything from hot humid tropical rainforests to mid-european winters with -20°C and always did for me what a demanded.

i remember one single event that sticks out of this general reliability and since i really like that moment i try to tell you briefly about it:
it all happened when i visited a cave out in the nowhere in laos that went really deep into the limestone mountains. there was i small stream running through that cave so i had to climb over plenty of slippery stones.
i did not know how deep this cave would be and i absolutely must have lost my senses to go in there all alone (there was simply nobody around). there was no was of getting lost as the cave did not have any junctions but i became exited and went further and further. there were some small pools of fresh clean water that i had to swim through so i left my belongings on one small plateau and continued going deeper with only my swimshorts, rafting sandals and the quark flashlight. 
there were plenty of turns in that cave and the air was fresh with a slight breeze and mist in it so i suppose the cave must had another opening but there was absolutely no light in it besides the beam out of my quark.
the small stream made many weird noises and the echoes did their best to irritate me, so at one point i was sure i heard echoes of distant voices and thought there might be a group of people coming in the opposite direction of me so i thought i get myself a safe stand and turn off my quark to see if i can see the lights of that group i thought i heard.
so i stood in the absolute darkness of that cave and listened if i can hear more. after waiting for maybe 20 seconds in the pitch black and there was absolutely no light visible plus nothing that sounded like those voices i thought i heard, i wanted to turn back on my quark but well, nothing happened!!!
i panicked for a moment as i realized that there was no way i would make it out in a reasonable time without light and felt the adrenaline rush even harder into my bloodstreams. click click click, nothing! i unscrewed the tailcap thinking that all thats missing now is that i stumble and drop the batteries into the water between the rocks. i put the cap back on and click - the quark worked again! this was an incredible relief! it felt like minutes that i stood there paralyzed without light but it might have been just another 20 seconds... wow.
i then thankfully accepted that this was probably the sign to not go any further so i turned around and made my way back out still with some panic in my bones until i saw the daylight again.
i can't tell exactly how deep i went into this cave but i am sure it must have been more than 800m since it took me almost 2 hours until i was back out in the daylight and warmth of the surrounding jungle (what a relief!).
i went to visit 2 other caves but did not go there alone. it still is an unforgettable memory and i also still wonder why the light suddenly refused to work since such an issue never occured again (thankfully).

thanks for this wonderful product, i'll take it with me on my next trip in about 2 weeks to sweden and i am confident it'll do another great job there!

the only thing i kinda miss would be the possibility of getting some feedback about the battery power status (voltage) since it happens (especially in the cold) that the light runs fine on the second or 3rd highest level for a while but steps down to moon mode within like 5-10 minutes because the batteries are exhausted. of course i absolutely appreciate the possibility of running the higher power levels for as long as possible but thought it might be helpful to get an idea about how long the batteries might last.

regards,
anti


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## edc3 (Jun 6, 2010)

That's a scary story, anti. What kind of batteries are you using? Lithium chemistries perform better in temperature extremes.

I'm not much of a caver, but I wouldn't go more than 50 feet into a cave without extra batteries and *at least* two extra flashlights. Stuff happens, even with the best equipment. Plus you have a great excuse to buy more flashlights. :wave:


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## TwitchALot (Jun 6, 2010)

antiplex said:


> dear cpf-members,
> 
> its almost a year now that i received my 4sevens quark 2AA so i thought i give a little feedback bout my feelings regarding this light.
> 
> ...



The first thing I thought of when I read your story was this. Count your lucky stars that things turned out the way they did, but more importantly, take the lessons this kind of experience can offer seriously. Two is one, and one is none. If it's important, carry a backup. And use lithium primaries if you are _really_ counting on your light, particularly in cold weather.  Alkalines, if you were using them, just don't cut it in low temperatures. 

For the most part, the Quark reliability issues I've had have had to do with the tailcap retaining ring loosening. My guess is that this is probably what happened, and retightening the tailcap managed to push it up enough to ensure positive contact with the switch. You may want to check yours to ensure it's tight. Have a good time on your trip, and stay safe!


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## Burgess (Jun 6, 2010)

to Antiplex --

Thank you for sharing that story with us !




Best of Luck (and health) to you, in your future endeavors.


As stated above, you might want to check yer' Retaining-Ring, in the tailcap.

Make sure this is nice and snug. :thumbsup:


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## tsask (Jun 6, 2010)

WOW what a story! What little I know about caves is that they are DARK and that can mean DANGER. talk about an exotic location.. Laos? WTG!

I agree that AA alks, while common worldwide, should never be used in a critical situation in regard to emergency lighting. CR123s or RCRs or even 14500 might make sense for you sometime in the future. Right now I would spend the money and buy the lithium primary AA cells.

I also urge you to also carry a small AAA light E01 or Arc AAA-P or the more recent AAA creations like Preon etc etc .

Glad you made it out safely. I also suggest a couple coin cell LED lights on keys.

There's a recent LEO training video regarding tactical/personal lighting which has a quotable line regarding the need for multiple EDC lights:
*"One is None"* in other words, carry only ONE light and if it's lost or breaks then you have NO lights, despite planning for the exact opposite!


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## antiplex (Jun 10, 2010)

thanks for that nice feedback! its a pleasure to share this story with you. you mentioned alkalines and i know about their weaknesses in circuits like the quark has. i tried it once and was not satisfied at all. what i use instead and what proved to be quite a good choice are sanyo eneloop nimh rechargeable cells. the serve high currents and don't loose much of their electrical power over time.

for my trips i prefer equipment that makes me as indipendant as possible so in this case i travelled with two pairs of AA eneloops and a tiny usb-charger to power these cells back up. a computer with usb was found everywhere i went to up to now plus i leave no waste behind.

if i'm thinking about that whole story now i am aware that this now sounds like a lot of fun and a great adventure, in fact i came quite close to my limits there. i wanted it and it was a good thing to do and i learned something about myself as well.
a second light as a backup would have been a good idea, the thing is that i didn't really know what to expect at all. i read about some caves, rented myself a bike, rode out about 20km into the wilderness, found the caves and jumped right into them.

i brosed through my archives and found a picture i took of that cave when i almost reached the exit. i was really happy to see that daylight within close distance and start smelling the heat and the vegetation outside. my instinct would have been just to rush out back into the daylight but thankfully i took the time for a picture.
its a long time exposure, i think maybe about 6 seconds and i used my flashlight as a light brush instead of the flash that would have gotten me nowhere with this pic.





there is almost no water visible in this picture, the small stream i mentioned was running a few meters behind the cameras position into a number of small cracks along the walls to somewhere noone can follow.
there were absolutely no cliffs where i could fallen deeper than 1-2 m but even thinking about having to get back out in the pitch dark still sends shivers down my spine. 
plus i sure would have hurt myself since there were tons of slippery stones on the ground and occasions to bang your head agains (of course, no helmet seen in a radius of 500km  ).

i will consider getting myself a spare light in the future, a good idea!

greetings, anti


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## Toohotruk (Jun 10, 2010)

Cool pic! :twothumbs


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## edc3 (Jun 11, 2010)

Yes, very cool pic. I'm glad you made it out okay.


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## the.Mtn.Man (Jun 11, 2010)

antiplex said:


> i will consider getting myself a spare light in the future, a good idea!


A Quark MiNi AA would make a great, lightweight back-up light that can fit unobtrusively in your pocket.


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## TwitchALot (Jun 12, 2010)

antiplex said:


> thanks for that nice feedback! its a pleasure to share this story with you. you mentioned alkalines and i know about their weaknesses in circuits like the quark has. i tried it once and was not satisfied at all. what i use instead and what proved to be quite a good choice are sanyo eneloop nimh rechargeable cells. the serve high currents and don't loose much of their electrical power over time.



Eneloops works great compared to AAA's (Alkaline AA), but don't operate in temperature extremes as well as lithium primaries. 



> a second light as a backup would have been a good idea, the thing is that i didn't really know what to expect at all. i read about some caves, rented myself a bike, rode out about 20km into the wilderness, found the caves and jumped right into them.



Always expect your first line of equipment to fail, and you'll rarely have such problems. Still, I bet it was a good experience. 



> i brosed through my archives and found a picture i took of that cave when i almost reached the exit. i was really happy to see that daylight within close distance and start smelling the heat and the vegetation outside. my instinct would have been just to rush out back into the daylight but thankfully i took the time for a picture.



Find more pictures please.


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## dasBULK (Jun 15, 2010)

Hi. I rarely post here but after just recieving a quark turbo 123squared, I have a question.

Right off. Mine doesn't have square threads.
Is that normal? Some thing new maybe?


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## Quension (Jun 15, 2010)

No; without square threads it won't lego properly with other heads and bodies. There's no way they'd make an arbitrary change like that, especially with a mix of new and old stock on the site.

Can you take a picture? You can find photos for comparison here; are you sure yours is different?


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## dasBULK (Jun 15, 2010)

Quension said:


> No; without square threads it won't lego properly with other heads and bodies. There's no way they'd make an arbitrary change like that, especially with a mix of new and old stock on the site.
> 
> Can you take a picture? You can find photos for comparison here; are you sure yours is different?



Positive.
I'll takea pic in the morning. I just got to work.


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## dasBULK (Jun 15, 2010)

I also just noticed a bubble in the led...
Im thinking I should go ahead and contact 4sevens.


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## Egsise (Jun 15, 2010)

TwitchALot said:


> Eneloops works great compared to AAA's (Alkaline AA), but don't operate in temperature extremes as well as lithium primaries.


In my tests some rechargeable NiMH outperformed lithium primaries.


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## pjandyho (Jun 15, 2010)

Me too. When I got the turbo 123^2 I tried switching the bezel over to the 123^2 and it wouldn't fit. I inspected the threading and realized that it is not the square ones anymore.


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## dasBULK (Jun 16, 2010)

How long ago did you get it? Recently?
Must be some thing new.
I guess I should say that the two issues with mine do not affect performance.
I can't see any artifact from the tiny bubble and the threading, while not square still works fine.
Just curious more than anything.

Hell, now that I'm looking at it more, I can see a small hair or something on the side of the led lense...

I think I must have gotten a bad one. It works fne but I'm kinda worried about if it might pose a problem later.
Hmm.
Let me see if I can't post a pic from my phone.






well that wasn't a pain in the *** at all...


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## TwitchALot (Jun 16, 2010)

Egsise said:


> In my tests some rechargeable NiMH outperformed lithium primaries.



Your tests seem to indicate that they have a better discharge curve at -20 degrees, but that's pushing the rated limit of the Eneloops. More importantly, the lithiums seem to have a longer runtime- and are rated to -40.


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## dasBULK (Jun 16, 2010)

Here's the "sharp" threads on my quark turbo 123sq'rd.


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## pjandyho (Jun 16, 2010)

dasBULK said:


> How long ago did you get it? Recently?
> Must be some thing new.
> I guess I should say that the two issues with mine do not affect performance.
> I can't see any artifact from the tiny bubble and the threading, while not square still works fine.
> ...


I just got it recently in the limited warm white runs. I was surprised to have found the square threading gone. 4sevens refused to make any single cell limited runs and asks users to lego themselves if they already have a single cell tube, or alternatively to buy a spare tube. How then do they expect users to lego the lights when the threadings are different?

And to answer to your question, square threadings are more robust. Not that it really matters to me but I am just voicing a concern for others who has an intent to lego their lights.

Btw, I believe the hair you are talking about is the contact wire for the LED diodes and is totally harmless. It is supposed to be there.


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## hugovg (Jun 16, 2010)

Just about to place my first ever Quark order for a couple of different Quark torch types (turbo 123-2 high-voltage, AA-2 low voltage) plus an extra body (123) to do some lego'ing with various cells (16340, 17670, 14500, dummy-123, dummy-AA).

I had the objective of being able to run any head on even a single alkalines AA/AAA in an emergency. 

So I have a couple of questions, please excuse me if they are silly, still learning...

1) does the square vs "sharp" thread issue only apply to the male thread side or both? If it were both, then our lego plans are foiled as you say pjandyho, but if it's male-side only, then things should still work ok? (ie. both square & "sharp" males will fit in a ["sharp"] female).

2) I can't decide if the small extra output of the high-voltage 123-2 head offsets my failed "emergency" objective. I guess a high-voltage 123-2 head should actually work (just) on a pair of AA lithiums, but not AA-alkalines yes?

If there was no real difference in output (less than 20% isn't noticable?), then sticking with low-voltage heads and having the ability to run the turbo head on a single cheap AA alkaline (maybe on low/med power) sounds pretty flexible to me.

Thanks for any advice.


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## dasBULK (Jun 16, 2010)

pjandyho said:


> I just got it recently in the limited warm white runs. I was surprised to have found the square threading gone. 4sevens refused to make any single cell limited runs and asks users to lego themselves if they already have a single cell tube, or alternatively to buy a spare tube. How then do they expect users to lego the lights when the threadings are different?
> 
> And to answer to your question, square threadings are more robust. Not that it really matters to me but I am just voicing a concern for others who has an intent to lego their lights.
> 
> Btw, I believe the hair you are talking about is the contact wire for the LED diodes and is totally harmless. It is supposed to be there.



I don't know man. I have a few other lights, and they have thicker copper colored leads. The one in my Quark is HAIR thin and greyish colored. You can barely make it out in the pic.
I took a new pic and I cant tell you how hard it was to get it to focus on such a small hair. Not bad for an iPhone though...




EDIT/UPDATE!

Just got done playing email tag with 4Sevens HQ and they asked me to send this one in with an RMA. A new one is on its way to my house RN.
GREAT Customer service if I do say so. 

I guess a few out of spec pieces got on the boat. lol Totally not worried. That kind of thing can happen.
I work manufacturing and know all to well what happens when specs get miffed once in a blue moon.
I should also say that I ordered from firearmspro.com


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## RepProdigious (Jun 16, 2010)

dasBULK said:


> I guess a few out of spec pieces got on the boat. lol Totally not worried. That kind of thing can happen.
> I work manufacturing and know all to well what happens when specs get miffed once in a blue moon.
> I should also say that I ordered from firearmspro.com



Erm... If you work in manufacturing you should also know that there's quite a huge difference in cutting 'normal' or square threads, its not like you can 'accidentally' mess that up on at least 3 different parts (tail/body/head). I'm really hoping this isn't a sign of things to come..... Different threads, now why would they go and do something like that?

I'm really interested in what you get for replacement, keep us posted!


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## ti-force (Jun 16, 2010)

hugovg said:


> Just about to place my first ever Quark order for a couple of different Quark torch types (turbo 123-2 high-voltage, AA-2 low voltage) plus an extra body (123) to do some lego'ing with various cells (16340, 17670, 14500, dummy-123, dummy-AA).
> 
> I had the objective of being able to run any head on even a single alkalines AA/AAA in an emergency.
> 
> ...



Don't confuse Lithium primaries with Lithium rechargeables. The high voltage head would perform similarly with 2- AA Alkalines as it would with 2- AA Lithium primaries. Now 2- Li-ion 14500's is a different ball game, but you should research the dangers associated with the misuse of those cells.

As for running a AAA battery with the Quark lights, to my knowledge they don't make a battery tube for that setup.


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## dasBULK (Jun 16, 2010)

RepProdigious said:


> Erm... If you work in manufacturing you should also know that there's quite a huge difference in cutting 'normal' or square threads, its not like you can 'accidentally' mess that up on at least 3 different parts (tail/body/head). I'm really hoping this isn't a sign of things to come..... Different threads, now why would they go and do something like that?
> 
> I'm really interested in what you get for replacement, keep us posted!



I was referring more to the bubble in the LED.

I really don't have much of a clue about the threads, and neither did they. I think it was something their supplier did and didn't let 4Sevens know about it. They didn't know about the threads and seemed pretty damned interested.

Oh well, I just got back from the post office. Its on its way back to HQ.
They told me they will have a new one in the mail to me today aswell.:thumbsup:


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## michelkenny (Jun 16, 2010)

Keep us posted with regard to the threads... I was planning to get one of the neutral white AA^2 lights and a 123 body to lego.


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## pjandyho (Jun 16, 2010)

hugovg said:


> 1) does the square vs "sharp" thread issue only apply to the male thread side or both? If it were both, then our lego plans are foiled as you say pjandyho, but if it's male-side only, then things should still work ok? (ie. both square & "sharp" males will fit in a ["sharp"] female).



As far as I am concerned, my older neutral white Q3 5B Quark 123^2 has square threading and the newer warm white 123^2 turbo has the sharp threading. I can't get the turbo warm white head to screw down onto the 123^2 tactical body and that was what got me to check the threads.

There could only be two way this could happen. Either the factory made a mistake on the threading or 4sevens made a change in the specification of the threading. If it is the latter being the case then I think 4sevens should openly acknowledge this issue so that existing Quark users who wishes to lego the parts would be well aware of the problems that they would face.


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## pjandyho (Jun 16, 2010)

dasBULK said:


> I don't know man. I have a few other lights, and they have thicker copper colored leads. The one in my Quark is HAIR thin and greyish colored. You can barely make it out in the pic.
> I took a new pic and I cant tell you how hard it was to get it to focus on such a small hair. Not bad for an iPhone though...
> 
> 
> ...


Now I know what you meant regarding the bubble and the hair. I had thought you were referring to a very tiny wire in the LED which is not easily seen.


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## RepProdigious (Jun 16, 2010)

pjandyho said:


> As far as I am concerned, my older neutral white Q3 5B Quark 123^2 has square threading and the newer warm white 123^2 turbo has the sharp threading. I can't get the turbo warm white head to screw down onto the 123^2 tactical body and that was what got me to check the threads.
> 
> There could only be two way this could happen. Either the factory made a mistake on the threading or 4sevens made a change in the specification of the threading. If it is the latter being the case then I think 4sevens should openly acknowledge this issue so that existing Quark users who wishes to lego the parts would be well aware of the problems that they would face.



The chances of this happening accidentally are very very slim to none..... It would be incredibly foolish on 4sevens part if they would even sell a single part with a manufacturing flaw thats actually a strong technical feature, let alone complete finished products!

And if this is indeed a design change they should directly remove the 'Square threads for lifetime smooth operation' from their website and clearly note what kind of version people get when they place an order for parts or complete lights! The whole LEGO idea will go this sh!t like this!


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## the.Mtn.Man (Jun 16, 2010)

Perhaps we should let 4Sevens have their say before we run amok with speculation.


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## calipsoii (Jun 16, 2010)

Seconded; would also like a reply from 4sevens on the square-thread thing. Got a pre-order in for a 2AAT-NW that I had planned to lego onto either a AA or 123 body. If that's not going to happen I'd like to cancel the preorder as I won't carry/use the 2AA config.


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## bodhran (Jun 16, 2010)

Just looked and my 123 Turbo WW has regular threads also. A AA Turbo I prurchased about a month earlier has square threads. One of the things I liked about the Quarks was the square threads, not to mention the lego problems. Specs on their web page state SQUARE THREADS.


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## ti-force (Jun 16, 2010)

I certainly hope the non-squared threads is just a mistake. Either way, it sounds like this is going to cost 4sevens some money. If they changed the thread design, I guess I can delete the thread I started about Quark legoing. I'll keep my eyes on this thread for an update.


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## aL01 (Jun 16, 2010)

_Definitely_ a noob question (this is my first real flashlight): 'Are these the square or regular threads?'


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## ti-force (Jun 16, 2010)

aL01 said:


> _Definitely_ a noob question (this is my first real flashlight): 'Are these the square or regular threads?



Those are the square threads. Look at the picture at the top of this page to see the non-squared threads.


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## aL01 (Jun 16, 2010)

ti-force said:


> Those are the square threads. Look at the picture at the top of this page to see the non-squared threads.



Thanks!


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## dasBULK (Jun 16, 2010)

the.Mtn.Man said:


> Perhaps we should let 4Sevens have their say before we run amok with speculation.


Agreed.
The sales and marketing folks rarely have a clue what their supplier does after the initial product is approved for production. Being that these are produced over seas, they are probably never seen by the folks at 4sevens once they get off the boat. I doubt the open every one that comes in before they ship them out to customers. 
This is a FACTORY problem, not a 4Sevens problem IMO.


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## Toohotruk (Jun 16, 2010)

There is another possibility...could these lights with regular threads be counterfeit? Wouldn't be the first time that's happened with popular lights.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Jun 16, 2010)

If (big if) I ever get to order a Quark AA along with a 123 no clip body it will dang sure come direct from 4 Sevens!!!


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## Toohotruk (Jun 16, 2010)

It's usually cheaper that way anyhow.


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## ti-force (Jun 16, 2010)

Toohotruk said:


> It's usually cheaper that way anyhow.



Yes! 8% discount and free shipping:thumbsup:. Plus I live within 200 miles of 4sevens, so I usually get my items next day :nana:


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## dasBULK (Jun 16, 2010)

ti-force said:


> Yes! 8% discount and free shipping:thumbsup:. Plus I live within 200 miles of 4sevens, so I usually get my items next day :nana:



I ordered mine with a 15% discount from firearmspro.

4Sevens gets them from the same supplier everyone else does.

But if mine was counterfit it was pretty decent.

What could have happened is maybe thier Asian supplier was producing lower quality copies to sell outside the US and those got mixed with the regular productions for import here.
Purely speculation of course.


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## Egsise (Jun 16, 2010)

dasBULK said:


> This is a FACTORY problem, not a 4Sevens problem IMO.


It's a 47's problem, their product, their quality control.(and it's not the first time it fails....)


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## csshih (Jun 16, 2010)

dasBULK said:


> 4Sevens gets them from the same supplier everyone else does.



No, 4sevens IS the supplier....


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## pjandyho (Jun 16, 2010)

What counterfeit are we talking about? I got mine from 4sevens. They can't be counterfeiting their own products?

Anyway, I too second that this is a mistake in the manufacturing part. It is up to 4sevens on what they can do now. Have a total recall which is going to cost them a bombshell, and considering that mine is the warm white production run I really have no idea what they could do.


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## dasBULK (Jun 17, 2010)

csshih said:


> No, 4sevens IS the supplier....



It was my understanding that they along with Fenix, Olight and a few others all contacted their lights out to overseas manufacturers. 
No where on the box does it say those rare and sometimes magical words "Made in America".

There are no confirmed counterfits. Only what we've been speculating as counterfits.

It wouldn't be the first time an over seas plant pur out a lower grade to sell to a different market.

I speculate that some of those lower grades got subbed in to the supply coming to America by accident on their part.
Nothing to do with 4Sevens directly.


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## pjandyho (Jun 17, 2010)

dasBULK said:


> It was my understanding that they along with Fenix, Olight and a few others all contacted their lights out to overseas manufacturers.
> No where on the box does it say those rare and sometimes magical words "Made in America".


I think csshih had misunderstood what you were saying. Me too. I had thought that you meant firearmspro is the supplier of 4sevens products.


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## SixM (Jun 17, 2010)

I purchased a Turbo 123 WW a week or so ago and it has sharp threads, the AA battery tube I ordered has sharp threads also.


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## ti-force (Jun 17, 2010)

SixM said:


> I purchased a Turbo 123 WW a week or so ago and it has sharp threads, the AA battery tube I ordered has sharp threads also.



Where did you purchase your lights from? Just curious. I purchased a AA Tactical XP-G R5 about 2 weeks ago and it has square threads. I also purchased a AA-2 Regular XP-E R2 which should be arriving today, and while I'm fairly certain that it's old stock and won't have sharp threads (XP-E R2), I'll check the threads when it arrives. Both of these lights were ordered directly from 4sevens.



This part isn't directed at you SixM:
And like previously mentioned, this is a 4sevens problem. That's also what I meant by my earlier comment about this costing 4sevens money either way. If it's a mistake, money will be spent on replacement parts, shipping, labor etc..... plus the parts they get back are no good anymore. If it's not a mistake, a lot of people will not buy new lights from them because of compatibility problems with older lights. Of course that will probably only be a small percentage of their market, but it will cost them money nonetheless.


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## Pekka (Jun 17, 2010)

This sucks, really.

I have a load of bodies and heads to inspect and to add more fun into equation, the square and V-threads seem compatible enough. Ie. I can combine the same turbo head into either body without resorting into violence.

Not that running a V-thread against square would be a good idea in the long run; the sharp contact point against flat surface will detoriate the threads quickly...

What body/thread combinations other people have gotten? Judging from a quick look I have:

AA-1 body with opaque O-rings, square threads
AA-2 body with opaque O-rings, square threads
Turbo AA-2 body with opaque O-rings, V-threads
Turbo 123-2 body with opaque O-rings, V-threads

Heads and tails you ask? I'll have to get better magnifying lens to answer that. Call it age-impaired vision if you please. 

Edit attendum: all above purchased from 4sevens.com


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## aL01 (Jun 17, 2010)

aL01 said:


> _Definitely_ a noob question (this is my first real flashlight): 'Are these the square or regular threads?'



FWIW, if it helps anyone contemplating getting a Quark- this is the Quark AA2 Tactical purchased about 2 weeks ago directly from 4Sevens.


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## Pekka (Jun 17, 2010)

aL01 said:


> FWIW, if it helps anyone contemplating getting a Quark- this is the Quark AA2 Tactical purchased about 2 weeks ago directly from 4Sevens.



Note the black O-ring: it's "old" production, and afaik, all the old ones were square as supposted to.


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## ti-force (Jun 17, 2010)

I just thought I would point something out. I'm sure most of you have already noticed this, but for anyone who hasn't, the V-threads seem to be isolated to the Quark Turbo models. This is just my observation from the comments in this thread. It may affect other models, but so far no one has noted V-threads on any other model than a Turbo model, unless I missed a post.


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## jupello (Jun 17, 2010)

ti-force said:


> I just thought I would point something out. I'm sure most of you have already noticed this, but for anyone who hasn't, the V-threads seem to be isolated to the Quark Turbo models. This is just my observation from the comments in this thread. It may affect other models, but so far no one has noted V-threads on any other model than a Turbo model, unless I missed a post.



Yep, but SixM also had he's accessory AA-tube with V-threads, so maybe the "disease" is spreading to other models and accessories too .
I just ordered 123-t version, and now I'm a bit worried what kind of threads it will have, and if I'm able to get AA-tube with same type threads for it in the future if I decide to change battery format.


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## ti-force (Jun 17, 2010)

jupello said:


> Yep, but SixM also had he's accessory AA-tube with V-threads, so maybe the "disease" is spreading to other models and accessories too .
> I just ordered 123-t version, and now I'm a bit worried what kind of threads it will have, and if I'm able to get AA-tube with same type threads for it in the future if I decide to change battery format.



I guess I thought he meant AA-2 Turbo body. I certainly hope this doesn't affect all models, but it very well may.

SixM,

Could you please specify whether you have a AA-2 Turbo body with V-threads or a non-Turbo AA body?


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## SixM (Jun 17, 2010)

Sorry fellas, I cleaned and reinspected the threads on my single AA tube and they are indeed _*square cut threads!*_ sorry for the misinformation. 
The Turbo 123 WW is sharp cut threads as previously stated, clear type O-ring also.
I have reached the age now where I do in fact need bifocals.


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## calipsoii (Jun 17, 2010)

SixM said:


> Sorry fellas, I cleaned and reinspected the threads on my single AA tube and they are indeed _*square cut threads!*_ sorry for the misinformation.
> The Turbo 123 WW is sharp cut threads as previously stated, clear type O-ring also.
> I have reached the age now where I do in fact need bifocals.



Yay!


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## ti-force (Jun 17, 2010)

Thanks for the correction SixM.

Also, I'd like to add that my single AA body that was recently purchased has clear/opaque o-rings, and as previously stated it has square threads.


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## DeadButAlive (Jun 17, 2010)

I just checked out all my Quarks and here's what I found:


All my "regular" Quark bodies (123, AA, AA^2, 123^2) have regular square threads. This includes some black o-ring bodies and some translucent o-ring bodies. Several have been purchased recently, including a AA^2 body with my WW order and an AA body that was ordered with my NW preorder that 4sevens partial shipped to me.
Both the AA^2 Turbo WW (orderd directly from 4sevens) and the 123^2 regular Turbo (XP-G R5 - ordered fairly recently from another well-reputed online store) have trapezoidal threads - not square but not sharp triangles either. The threads are flat on the top but the sides are tapered and the valley in between is flat. In cross section they look like a triangle with the top cut off (a trapezoid). At first I though they were sharp triangles but upon closer inspection under magnification it turns out that they are both trapeziodal. However, the threads on the AA^2 WW Turbo body appear to be "sharper" (narrower on top and in the valley between threads) than the ones on the 123^2 R5 Turbo body.
All heads have what appear to be square threads (to the best of my inspection abilities since I have no practical way of looking at them in profile).
Next I played Quark-lego with various heads on both both square threaded and trapezoidal threaded bodies:

All the regular (non-turbo) heads thread onto all the bodies (even the trapezoidal threaded turbo bodies) without binding. The same is true for the tailcaps.
The R5 Turbo head threads onto all other bodies (both the square-threaded regular bodies and the trapezoidal-threaded turbo bodies) without binding.
The WW AA^2 Turbo head threads onto all other bodies (both the square-threaded regular bodies and the trapezoidal-threaded turbo bodies) _*with the exception of the 123^2 regular and 123 regular bodies*_. I have two of the 123^2 regular bodies and one of the 123 regular bodies - none will mate with the WW AA^2 Turbo head. The same is true for the tailcap from the WW AA^2 Turbo.
It almost doesn't make sense since the threads in the WW AA^2 turbo head appear to be square and the threads on the 123^2 regular body are square, but the two just don't mate. That's a bit of a bummer because the 123^2 turbo body is just a hair to narrow to fit a 17670 so the only way to use one is to use the 123^2 regular body - and with the WW AA^2 turbo head not mating with that body then the combo of the 17670 + WW AA^2 turbo head is out. Also out is the combo of WW turbo running on 1xCR123 (not that I'd use that one anyway).

I also found that there is a fair amount of variability between all the parts in terms of tolerances - some combos have more thread play than others. A couple of combinations barely mate and seem dangerously tight (like right on the edge of grinding) and a couple of others seem pretty loose (like right on the edge of sloppy). However all seem to work just fine once threaded down over the o-rings. I suppose that this could be expected since there's no way to know what parts were manufactured during which run. It is clear though that there is a manufacturing issue present in at least one run that goes beyond out-of-tolerance tooling. 

Now having reported the information as I found it, let me say this - even with the limitations I've found in my bunch, Quarks still give me an unparalleled number of options to tinker around with so I really can't complain. I'm still very pleased with my stable of Quarks!


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## RepProdigious (Jun 17, 2010)

Sooo.... as things are looking now only the Turbo series is messed up?

Still, they should note this clearly at their website!!


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## ti-force (Jun 17, 2010)

Thank you very much for taking the time to do this and for sharing DeadButAlive:thumbsup: We're gathering very useful data here.


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## Wiggle (Jun 17, 2010)

I got something from 4 Sevens, sorry it's a bit more aimed at my specific light though:



Wiggle said:


> Has the threading on recent Quarks been changed from square to regular? Some members in this CPF thread: have reported getting Quarks without square threads. I've got a neutral white Quark AA2 ordered and would be disappointed if I couldn't lego it with my existing Quark parts.





4Sevens said:


> Hi (Wiggle),
> Your Neutral White light will have square threads.
> 
> Regards,


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## jag-engr (Jun 17, 2010)

ti-force said:


> ...this is a 4sevens problem. That's also what I meant by my earlier comment about this costing 4sevens money either way. If it's a mistake, money will be spent on replacement parts, shipping, labor etc..... plus the parts they get back are no good anymore. *If it's not a mistake, a lot of people will not buy new lights from them because of compatibility problems with older lights.* Of course that will probably only be a small percentage of their market, but it will cost them money nonetheless.



I really don't think it could be an intentional change - square threads has always been one of their major selling points and they also seem to be producing lights with square threads. It sounds like a factory mistake to me. I do agree that any problems with this line is a problem for 4sevens, even if not their fault.


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## Toohotruk (Jun 17, 2010)

pjandyho said:


> What counterfeit are we talking about? I got mine from 4sevens. They can't be counterfeiting their own products?




I only suggested it as a possibility, not an accusation. I had no idea some of the sharp thread lights had been purchased at 7777 when I posted that.


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## dasBULK (Jun 18, 2010)

Well I just got my new Turbo 123sq and it has the square threads but still has a hair showing on the reflector. 
at least it got here quick.

I really don't want to have to send it back in. I think I'm just going to keep this one.


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## dasBULK (Jun 18, 2010)

Actually... Is it possible for the little bubble on the LED to be cracked?
Because I don't see a hair or anything sticking out, but it shows up on the reflector...

This is the new one I got today.
Crack or hair is at the 12o'clock of the LED.

I don't know if I should worry or not. Hmm.


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## Toohotruk (Jun 19, 2010)

Weird.


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## dasBULK (Jun 19, 2010)

Yep. The orange is the reflection of my iPhone cover btw.

Im going to chance it this time and if it dies on me... I don't know. I just don't think I'll buy another Quark... I mean it could be nothing, and I hope it is. But the first one I got had the wrong threads, a hair (or a crack?)and a bubble in the LED. Now I get the replacement FROM 4Sevens and I see a small little hair/crack in this one too.

Maybe I just have crappy luck. God I hope so.


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## ti-force (Jun 19, 2010)

dasBULK said:


> Actually... Is it possible for the little bubble on the LED to be cracked?
> Because I don't see a hair or anything sticking out, but it shows up on the reflector...
> 
> This is the new one I got today.
> ...



Does this imperfection show up in the beam with the light on? If not, I don't think I'd worry too much about it. I mean, you have to hold the light at a certain angle to see it right? If that's the only time you can see it, why worry about it? In fact, I just looked at my Quark Turbo, holding it at different angles looking for something similar to what you're describing and I found something. 

I've never noticed it before now, although I will mention that it's not quite as pronounced as yours, but if you're not happy with it I suggest you use the 10 year warranty again. I know it's aggravating, but if you're dissatisfied with the light, chances are you will continue to be.


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## dasBULK (Jun 19, 2010)

Oh no, I don't have to look for it or hold it at a certain angle at all. Just shows up better with certain angles.

Im really not all that worried too much any more. Still kinda irks me though. Im probably nit picking.

Im going to roll it like I stole it with my regular EDC.

I just won't be as shocked if it ever does fail, lol.

I will say that Im really impressed with it otherwise.
Love the knurling, and the shape. The clip is a little close at the tip making it slightly challenging clipping it to the pocket but I love everything else about it.

Still kinda getting use to the UI though. Im coming from the Fenix PD30+ and PD20 UI to this.

Odd side note. My PD30+'s diode is messed up, but still works. I don't have it with me and its the wrong thread, but the clear dome looks shattered. I have no idea how that happened. Messed up the throw quite a bit, but still works.
I probably dropped it one to many times at work. Then again, it gets loaned out alot at work too, maybe one of my coworkers muffed it up.

Maybe I shouldn't loan my Quark out.


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## ti-force (Jun 19, 2010)

dasBULK said:


> Oh no, I don't have to look for it or hold it at a certain angle at all. Just shows up better with certain angles.
> 
> Im really not all that worried too much any more. Still kinda irks me though. Im probably nit picking.
> 
> ...



Yeah, the clips are really tough to get clipped, but I guess that's better than a loose clip.

I think you need to be worried about your co-workers instead of that little hair  

The PD30 sounds like a good candidate for some modding. I have two low voltage Quark Turbo heads (AA-2). One of them I purchased with the emitter fried, the other one, well lets just say taking outdoor beamshots with multiple lights, multiple batteries and booze don't go very well together. Yeah, 2-AW RCR123's will turn on a low voltage head for about 5 seconds, then it's lights out for good .

Anyway, I just received an XP-E Q4 in the 6A to 7D tint range (warm) from another CPF member. I'm considering installing in one my low voltage Turbo heads. I've never tried a warm tint, so I think I'll give it a shot.


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