# Recommendations for getting started with a lathe?



## Endeavour (Jun 25, 2004)

I'm thinking about taking a machining course pretty soon to learn how to use a lathe, and was wondering if anyone here has some recommendations on a particular model lathe, any general tips on getting started, as well as recommended tools and whatnot.

All input appreciated. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

-EM


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## PEU (Jun 25, 2004)

I started researching about 6 months ago, best place to go if you are looking for a mini lathe is www.mini-lathe.com 

Don't miss the links page, tons of interestings links there

Then when you readed most of the site (I did that) you can go to www.littlemachineshop.com and download the mini-lathe user guide which is very good and free!

There are 2 yahoo groups that you will find very interesting: 7x10minilathe and 7x12minilathe the 12 one is restricted to on topic messages only but fewer users (I'm subscribed to this only), the 10 is crowded but is more like a cafe, too much noise

When I made up my decision and purchased a lathe, which came with the following extras: 4-jaw chuck, Steady rest and follow rest, Live and dead center, Drill chuck with taper shank, face plate and a 6 tool kit.

Then I purchased a digital caliper at eBay for $20 shipped and also on eBay a QCTP for $55 shipped. 

Then purchased a knurling kit ($39) and a set of 5 center drills (~$5) @ LMShop

And finally I purchased a 3/4hp grinder to sharpen the lathe tools, I'm discovering this is a bit difficult... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Here on CPF are many howto's on using a lathe, I followed the Chief Wiggum knurling tutorial and quickly made a very decent knurl /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

And I just returned from a second hand shop (cashconverters.com) and purchased assorted pre-owned taps to learn how to tap.

Pablo


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## Endeavour (Jun 25, 2004)

Hey Pablo,

Thanks for the link. I've read up on the various Mini Lathes from Homier, MicroMark, and Harbor Freight, and it seems that the Homier is pretty good.

It seems Homier doesn't have them anymore, though. MicroMark and Harbor Freight have much more expensive lathes (400 and 500), and I don't think they have any 7x12 or 7x10s. (I didn't see any, anyway)

How hard is it to learn to use the lathe? I'm sure it takes practice and time, but otherwise...?

Thanks for your help. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## PEU (Jun 26, 2004)

Hey Enrique,
From what I readed in the minilathe group the next best thing to the homier is the cummins because it costs 100 bucks more but the value of the included accesories are more than 100.

When I was in USA 2 months ago I visited a Harbor Freight store in South Miami and saw there a mini-lathe, but it was smaller than mine, I guess it was a 7x10, but I suggest you to go for the longer ones (7x12 or even better 7x14). Go to a HF store and play with the display unit, my 1st impression was: WOW this is really small, smaller than my mental image for sure.

And what can I say about difficulty, I asked a friend who owns a lathe (the bigger ones) and let him teach me the very basics, I found rather easy to do facing, knurling and parting, what I'm having a little more trouble is with drilling holes, but may be the problem is in the drills (old ones) and not in the way I'm doing it. 
I did not tried yet to use a tap or to make a thread and my tool sharpening skills are close to nil... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Resuming, try to do something, make mistakes and have fun, we all know that experience comes with time...

Pablo


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## gadget_lover (Jun 26, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

[ QUOTE ]
*Endeavour said:*


How hard is it to learn to use the lathe? I'm sure it takes practice and time, but otherwise...?

Thanks for your help. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif 

[/ QUOTE ]

Harbor Freight does have some bigger lathes. Just search for LATHE on their web site and click on the lathes that show up. They have a 8x12 lathe as well as others.

As for learning to use it... In one month I went from never having touched one to being able to part stock, shape it, thread it and bore it. I usually come close to the dimensions that I aim for. 

My biggest problem is consistancy and process order. I find that some times you need to cut down the stock, taper it, thread it, drill it and bore it. If you don't do it in the right order you find yourself having to re-do things or having to re-true the work over and over. As for consistancy... It's a real ***** when you get to the last step and blow the threading or crush the part by over tightening the chuck. That really sucks.

Hmmm. That's too negative. The night before last I turned a simple Luxeon holder/heat sink for a desk lamp. I made a pocket for the base of the luxeon and cut fins toward the end for better heat dissipation. The end result looks cool and works great. The desk lamp is now my lathe work light. The feeling of accomplishment is fantastic.

Daniel


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## PEU (Jun 26, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

[ QUOTE ]
*gadget_lover said:*
[ QUOTE ]
*Endeavour said:*


The night before last I turned a simple Luxeon holder/heat sink for a desk lamp. I made a pocket for the base of the luxeon and cut fins toward the end for better heat dissipation. The end result looks cool and works great. The desk lamp is now my lathe work light. The feeling of accomplishment is fantastic.

Daniel 

[/ QUOTE ]

and the pics ???!!!

Pablo


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## gadget_lover (Jun 26, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

No pictures on THAT one yet. 

The head of the light is mounted on a flexible stalk so I can position it wherever I want. I could not find the little project box the was going to be the base, so I've got the bottom end of the stalk stuck in a prescription pill bottle. It looks VERY hokie right now.

After I get the base finished...

Daniel


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## theepdinker (Jun 26, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

My suggestions.

Read all the instructions first.
Follow all safety warnings.
Use indexable tooling.
Practice your first parting, reducing, boring & threading on a Mag-lite body. It machines fairly easy.

Theepdinker


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## gadget_lover (Jun 27, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

Just for you, Pablo. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Actually, there is a bit in here that may help other lathe newbies.

It started with a flashlight I bought for 2 dollars on e-bay:









I broke the head's shell trying t unscrew it. It was screwed together from the inside, but I could not see that. The lens and reflector pop out, giving access to the screws. When I was done, all I'd reused was the head and the flexible stalk. It's hard to find the light in this picture. Look for the black box that's attached to the lathe's head by a magnet and follow the black line to the head of the light..






I did not fret about the broken part. I needed some ventiation anyway.
I made the little finned part below to mount the LED. I used a parting tool to cut the fins. 

The fins were really very easy to do. I ran the parting tool up close to where I wanted the first groove. I cranked it in until the indicator read '0' the second time then I backed it out till I hit 0 the third time. This gave me about a .10 inch groove and left the tool about .020 away from the piece. I centered the indicator on the compound, then cranked the compound over till it had traveled .120 inches. I ran the tool in again just like I'd backed it out (stoped the third time I hit 0).

In essence, I had started with the tool .020 from the work, gone in about .120 inch from my starting point, then backed it out and moved over. I did this 4 times. This increased the surface area by quite a bit. The end of the rod nearer the LED was left as an un-finned, a solid thermal mass.

Next I took an end mill and made a little .005 inch depression the same diameter as the plack plastic Luxeon holder (.317 in). This made it easy to get the luxeon centered and made sure it did not shift while the epoxy dried.

Last, I parted the the piece, again using the same spacing that I'd used before.
The end result:





The mount is held in place by the three sheet metal screws. I can loosen the screws and move it in or out to get a perfect focus. It gets warm, so I know it's doing it's job. The luxeon (show below) is a reject low dome running at about 200ma, so I'm not too worried about heat build up. 






What I learned on this project. First: a parting tool tool can be used to do fins. Second: the index marks on my lathe can be set independently of the crank positions. Tis lets me crank it in till the bit starts to mark, then 'zero' the indicator on the index. I then know how deep I am cutting. Third: The stalk of the light is simply a piece of 10 gauge solid copper wire in a plastic sleeve with two smaller current carrying wires. Fourth: A small washer of very thin printed circuit board makes the soldering much easier. I epoxied an "emitter contact board" from the sandwitch shop in place at the same time as I epoxied the emitter. A simple pass with the dremel sanding drum made it the same diameter as the post.

Daniel


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## PEU (Jun 27, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

Nice!

I can't find that kind of lights here, so i'll try with a loc line, also I'm thinking of adding a strong magnet (from a broken hard disk) to the base so it can be attached nearly everywhere on the lathe

I have to try the doing the fins...!

I'm currently using a delicate light that was on my computer desk.

Pablo


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## gadget_lover (Jun 27, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

OK, to bring this back on topic......


One of the things you need when machining is a good light source. You will make some delicate adjustments and you'll need to see little things like how close the tool is to the work, or how the chips are breaking.

I used a Tensor (high intensity desk lamp with flexible goose neck) for a while, but it was bulky and there was always the worry that it wold get broken. Just about any hardware store will sell task lights. Some have clips, some have magnets. It's best if you can find one with a cover to protect the bulb from flying bits and pieces.

Daniel


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## McGizmo (Jun 27, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

I couldn't agree more on the lighting needs! I did some design work for a company who made and sold high end fluorescent fixtures for aquariums and was fortunate to get some 3' fixtures that have these great high color temp lamps. I have one over each lathe and dang what a diference! Even with this great lighting, I am always grabbing my flashlight to iluminate the situation when I am boreing. A stalk light would be a viable alternative but in this case, the beam would need to be a focused spot and not a flood. I have three flashlights on Loc-Line stalks with magnetic bases and they live on the drill press, small mill/drill and an engraving block . When it comes to metal working, one can't have enough light! I find myself wearing an optivisor and even loops on ocassion when the work is small. Your eyes and vision are so important to success! On that note, make damn sure that there is some clear shield between those precious eyes and the work!


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## NewBie (Jun 27, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

Sounds like a situation for a U-flex that georges80 makes


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## Endeavour (Jul 4, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

The Cummins lathe looks pretty good from the bits I've read on it. Ideally I'd take a Homier, but that Lathe seems to have disappeared from their site.

So, what is the recommended to start with as far as tooling goes to start off with by you all? I know some people who go and buy every single tool made for the lathe when they start, but I only want what will be used, not everything that's made. Just looking for recommendations from you all. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I've been wondering where that mini-lathe website got to - I was looking for it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Thanks for your help.

-Enrique


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## gadget_lover (Jul 4, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

There's another thread somewhere with the basics you'll want. I find that I use;

knurling tool
boring bars
left and right hand indexable cutters
a 60 degree threading tool for outside threads
a 60 degree tool at right angles for inside threads
a good cut-off bar
a drill chuck for the tailstock.
A good cutting fluid
A good light source.

I use other things, but those are most frequent. WHich mini-lathe site were you looking for?

Daniel


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## Endeavour (Jul 4, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

http://www.mini-lathe.com/

I'll probably get some stuff suggested on the 'getting started' page there, as well as some of the things you mentioned.

-Enrique


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## PEU (Jul 4, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

in the 7x12 minilathe yahoo group (I saw you there /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif) was posted the improved cummins manual, for $399 it comes with a lot of extras, even with a QCTP

Pablo


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## Endeavour (Jul 4, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

Yeah, the Cummins lathe seems pretty nice.

I'm hoping to get most of the basic tools listed at mini-lathe.com, and a knurling and threading tool as well.

How hard is it to learn to use a lathe by yourself? I understand the need for practice, but is it worth my time to look for a place locally to take a course on machining? (I've yet to find a place that has a course on anything but woodworking /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif) The tutorials I've read here in the MMM and other places make everything seem pretty straight forward, but I'm not sure how hard all the various operations are in practice.

Thanks for all your help so far. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

-Enrique


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## gadget_lover (Jul 5, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

Enrique,

I've followed the advice on this forum, the 7x10minilathe group on yahoo and the Army's easy to follow "FUNDAMENTALS OF MACHINE TOOLS" online at http://www.adtdl.army.mil/cgi-bin/atdl.dll/tc/9-524/toc.htm

That link is no longer good from non-military sites, so you can access a copy at machinist.org

The army info is geared to machining in general, but all the information about lathes (there is a seperate section there) is still valid for mini-lathes.

I'm self taught (in progress) and have yet to maim or injure myself beyond the normal bloodletting that goes into all my projects. I've been successful with everything I've tried to do so far, though that does not mean that I haven't messed up a lot.

As noted, practice and patience is the key.

Daniel


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## gadget_lover (Dec 20, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

I have what should be a silly question.

When I turn aluminum, I find the swarf (The metal I cut off) to be different depending on the speed the chuck's turning and the speed I move the tool (feed).

I tend to go slow, and take small cuts to avoid overloading the lathe. As an amateur, I'm sure I'm overly cautious. Cuts are typically .010 to .020 deep. I typically move the tool with the topslide feed, about .010 per second.

If the piece is turning at slow speed (200-400 rpm) I generally cut a long, thin curl up to .025 inch thick. I've seen them grow over a foot long. They frequently curl into a cork-screw shape. 

If I turn it faster, I get shorter curls. They break faster.

If I run the speed up around 1000 and take it slow I get little slivers (or flakes, depending on the tool).

I've been turning some 1 inch bar stock, 2011 aluminum. I noticed that if I use the same tools, but run the RPM up to about 1300 to 1500 and feed it pretty fast, I get a shower of little chips the size of a pencil tip. They are actually itty-bitty curls but I'll call them chips. They spray all over the place like a fountain. I can take a .020 deep cut easily. I move the tool at a very fast rate, one inch in 3-5 seconds using the carriage crank. The resulting surface is pretty clean.

So the question is... What should I be looking for when I am turning aluminum? Long curls, flakes, short curls or chips?

Daniel


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## gadget_lover (Dec 20, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

Here's what the chips look like. It was hard to move the carriage while taking the pictures, but I did get some chips in mid air.







Daniel


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## PEU (Dec 20, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

2011 aluminuum? or 6011?

I got those chips while turning brass, they are as the ones in your photo (may be a little smaller), they really annoy me, why? because is a shower! and is hot, and it goes directly to my hand /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

What happens if you change the cutting tool?

What are you using carbide or hss tools?


Pablo


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## CNC Dan (Dec 20, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

Doing small work such as on a mini lathe you would want ot go as fast as the lathe can go. At work I turn AL under 1.00" at 8,000 to 5,000 RPM.

Feed at .008" per rev. for roughing and .001" per rev for finishing.
I like to take a minium of .020" depth of cut for finishing. For roughing, take as deep a cut as your machine can handle.

Don't worry about the heat of the chips.( you are using eye protection, right.)

Sometimes when doing steels (303SS, 304SS, 316SS, 17-4ph) the chips come off so hot that they turn all sorts of colors.

Dan


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## gadget_lover (Dec 20, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

I'm using carbide inserts for most everything. They are nice and consistant. It is 2011-t3. I've used 6061 in the past.

Dan, did you mean MAX .020" depth of cut for finishing or minimum?

Daniel


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## CNC Dan (Dec 21, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

[ QUOTE ]
*gadget_lover said:*
Dan, did you mean MAX .020" depth of cut for finishing or minimum?
Daniel 

[/ QUOTE ]

Max. Sort of. You can go less, you can go more. With the tooling I use, and the machine I use, .020" works well. Sometimes I have to have a very large DOC(depth of cut) for the finish pass, and I can still get good finishes. The DOC should be at least as deep as the tool nose radius(TNR). Less than TNR and you are more likly to have chatter.

These are just places to start. Don't be afraid to try diferent amounts for all thease values.


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## gadget_lover (Dec 22, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

Thanks Dan. I'll have to look for more info on TNR vs DOC.

Daniel


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## rwolff (Dec 22, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

[ QUOTE ]

How hard is it to learn to use a lathe by yourself? I understand the need for practice, but is it worth my time to look for a place locally to take a course on machining?


[/ QUOTE ]

Check your local community college to see if they have a continuing education program or a part-time studies calendar. My local college offers such a program. For those without the space for their own mini-lathes, you might be able to make arrangements with the instructor (once he knows that you know what you're doing) to sign up for the course, but use the shop time for personal projects.


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## gadget_lover (Dec 22, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

Welcome to the forum, rwolff. Hope you have fun here.

You'll notice some of us are rank amateurs, others skilled hobbiests and still others are professional machinists or manufacturers.

BTW, The community college is starting to sound attractive. There's a lot to learn, and it would be handy to have access to things like annealing ovens.

Daniel


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## Endeavour (Dec 22, 2004)

*Re: Recommendations for getting started with a lat*

Wow, this thread is back.

I've looked into the community college, but they have no metal working courses, only a wood lathe course, which I'm not too interested in. I may pick up a lathe at some point in the next year and just start reading up on the tooling and processes again and try it by myself.

Good luck to you, Gadget Lover. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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