# EagleTac P100 Series unboxing and initial impressions



## AardvarkSagus (Mar 6, 2009)

Well, a package has just arrived from PTS Flashlights containing a pair of the new P100 series lights. I just thought I would share:






















I have to say, being able to compare these to the P10A2 these lights have every bit of the solid feel of EagleTacs previous models. They don't have the SS bezel like the P10 series has, but at least they don't have the tailstanding endcap either. 

The knurling on these lights is superb! Feels excellent and grippy. Best part however is even with a smooth reflector, the beam has an excellent focus and completely smooth transition to spill. No Cree ring at all! I think I love the XP-E.

I'll post a little more once the sun goes down. Kind of hard to get a decent idea of output otherwise. I just know it appears to stack up quite well.


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## nanotech17 (Mar 6, 2009)




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## EngrPaul (Mar 6, 2009)




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## PetaBread (Mar 6, 2009)




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## ergotelis (Mar 6, 2009)

You already got them this is not fair!!!! 
Why should i be living one ocean and one sea away???


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## kenL (Mar 6, 2009)




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## 1anrm (Mar 6, 2009)

Very nice! thanks! waiting for your other pics.


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## bigfish5 (Mar 6, 2009)

good deal, i expect to recieve the two a2's i ordered tomorrow. they look nice, i hope they are bright. Neither of them are for me so i dont know why im excited,, lol.


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## Phaserburn (Mar 6, 2009)

1anrm said:


> Very nice! thanks! waiting for your other pics.


 
+1

Jeez, mine is probably a couple or three days away!!

Totally smooth transition from spot to spill, you say? That's big for me. Any other light you could compare it to?


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## StandardBattery (Mar 6, 2009)

Thanks for the Pics!

Those are nice looking lights, I think they look much better than the 10 series. Unfortunately I like tail-caps that can tail stand. 

Interesting that they moved away from the cloned SureFire packaging, I was thinking that like Icon they could have a SF link... I still think they might... did we ever find out who is behing EagleTac?


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## Mjolnir (Mar 6, 2009)

The previous eagletac lights (the "10 series") are all pretty ugly, but the fit and finish is very good. These ones seem much more handsome and have a simpler design. I wouldn't expect the fit and finish to be as good sicne they cost less, but it probably is nonetheless.


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 6, 2009)

OK, so on a white wall it isn't 100% smooth transition, however for a smooth reflector, it is incredibly good with no dark ring. Hopefully I will get a chance to take a pic or two outside. Very well focused though. Good throw since the LED is so incredibly tiny.


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## youreacrab (Mar 6, 2009)

​


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## Burgess (Mar 6, 2009)

Nice work ! ! !


Waiting for more news, and photos.



_


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 6, 2009)

You'll have to pardon the crappy beamshot. I am not adept at these at all. This is about 75 ft. from the wall (inefficiently measured in paces):






You can't really argue with a smooth beam like that. Well focused. The output on both lights are nearly identical. Difficult to tell any difference at all.


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## Zeruel (Mar 7, 2009)

Hey Aardvark, do you own a LD20 to compare to P100A2? If you do, which do you prefer and why? Thanks!


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 7, 2009)

Nope, don't own a LD20. I do have access to a L2D and a PD20. I'll have to spend a little more time with this to make a preferential choice, but they seem to serve different purposes if you ask me. The P100 series has no genuine low mode. Just the general use mode of 55 lumens for quite a long time.


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## Mjolnir (Mar 7, 2009)

Are the modes changed by loosening the head like the other Eagletac lights?
The P100A2 seems like a very nice offering for the price. If I need a 2 AA light, I know which one I will be getting.


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## Federal LG (Mar 7, 2009)

They look sweet!

Is it a new LED ? What´s the difference between them and regular Crees Q5 ?


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 7, 2009)

Yes, the modes are changed by a loosening and tightening of the head, just like previous models, though they have altered their mechanism for accomplishing that just a touch. It now looks a little like the Nitecore SmartPD design, just without the piston. The Body of the light tightening down provides the second mode. Also, I fully believe that the Reverse polarity protection is far more durable in these lights than previous models. I had trouble with that myself.

The new LED is the Cree XP-E model. Far smaller and doesn't have the metal ring around the edge to provide that dark ring in the beam. No more "Cree Ring Circus"

http://www.cree.com/products/xlamp_xpe.asp


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## Federal LG (Mar 7, 2009)

Aardvark...

Would you post some macro pics of this new LED ?


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## EngrPaul (Mar 7, 2009)

Thanks for buying both!


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 7, 2009)

My camera is not terribly good at macros without direct sunlight. I'll see if I can get something later. Here is a closeup from the pic above that shows it:


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## youreacrab (Mar 7, 2009)

Federal LG said:


> What´s the difference between them and regular Crees Q5 ?



Q5 is the flux bin. XRE is the type of Cree LED we're all most used to. This is the XPE--a different Cree LED alltogether--also in a Q5 flux bin.


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## emr (Mar 7, 2009)

The XP-E has the same die as XR-E with a small dome.


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## StandardBattery (Mar 7, 2009)

The AA light is a bit of a boat, but that's the nature of the 2xAA format. The price really is quite remarkable, they seemed better positioned for the current economy than some of the others. I'm tempted to try the P100A2 and maybe give up my D20.


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## Painful Chafe (Mar 7, 2009)

If you can, can you post both outside diameters of the C2.
Thanks


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## Mjolnir (Mar 7, 2009)

I believe the knurling on the body tube is supposed to be one inch to fit in 1 inch gun mounts. The diameter of the widest point should be a little more than that.

If people find out about these lights, they may put the XXXXXfire lights out of business. You can get a light at DX for 20 dollars, or one of these for $20 more. Its really a no-brainer in my opinion...


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## youreacrab (Mar 7, 2009)

Painful Chafe (nice name!) said:


> If you can, can you post both outside diameters of the C2.
> Thanks



measured my c2: head is 1" diam and middle section is .85" diam.


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## harddrive (Mar 7, 2009)

Mjolnir said:


> I believe the knurling on the body tube is supposed to be one inch to fit in 1 inch gun mounts. The diameter of the widest point should be a little more than that.



According to the Eagletac site the head is one inch (and would fit standard gun mounts) and the body is 0.85 inch. Seems like it is slimmer than your standard 6P style tactical light (almost E2E size). I really don't need one but think I might get one anyway................


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## EngrPaul (Mar 7, 2009)

OK, I ordered one of each. 

Also ordered 2 5A-Q2 XP-E emitters. 
Not sure if I'll neutralize them right away... Anybody open the head yet? :devil:


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## kyhunter1 (Mar 7, 2009)

Man, you guys just cost me some more money, lol...... Pulled the trigger on a new P100C2!


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## harddrive (Mar 7, 2009)

youreacrab said:


> measured my c2: head is 1" diam and middle section is .85" diam.



Are you happy with the P100C2 overall? Does it seem fairly compact in the hand?


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## youreacrab (Mar 7, 2009)

harddrive said:


> I really don't need one but think I might get one anyway................



this is a fantastic light, like no other. this feels and looks like the highest quality light to come out of china. perhaps its the knurling and heft... :twothumbs


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## youreacrab (Mar 7, 2009)

harddrive said:


> Are you happy with the P100C2 overall? Does it seem fairly compact in the hand?



tint is cool white for sure. its my only cool white led, so i can't complain. otherwise happy with it overall.


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 7, 2009)

It is definitely a very compact light. I keep pulling it out and being surprised that a 2x123 light can be this small without being designed as strictly a cylinder. I definitely like the size of the P100C2 more than the P100A2.

@EngrPaul
Not really certain how to crack the head on mine yet, though I can't say the thought hasn't occurred to me. I have a R2 bin XP-E sitting here that is begging to go into something. I just don't know if I can solder that small yet. Not even sure where the contacts are. 114-122lm @ 350mA. Sounds good to me.


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## youreacrab (Mar 7, 2009)

AardvarkSagus said:


> I have a R2 bin XP-E sitting here that is begging to go into something. I just don't know if I can solder that small yet. Not even sure where the contacts are. 114-122lm @ 350mA. Sounds good to me.





EngrPaul said:


> OK, I ordered one of each.
> 
> Also ordered 2 5A-Q2 XP-E emitters.



What board config did you order that will fit into the new eagletac lights? i may be interested in swapping for neutral emitter too.


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## EngrPaul (Mar 7, 2009)

I ordered the bare emitters. If it's like ET's other lights, then they epoxy the middle to aluminum and solder the wires from underneath. However, I figure they have a special board for the emitter. We'll see. :tinfoil:


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## 276 (Mar 7, 2009)

I love the P100C2 its a lot smaller than a 6p and the knurling is very good had a small issue with my P100A2 but it worked itself out can't wait to use them later.:twothumbs


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 7, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> I ordered the bare emitters. If it's like ET's other lights, then they epoxy the middle to aluminum and solder the wires from underneath. However, I figure they have a special board for the emitter. We'll see. :tinfoil:


Don't forget to take pics...


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## EngrPaul (Mar 7, 2009)

AardvarkSagus said:


> Don't forget to take pics...


 
I know, I know... I forgot to take pictures when I had my P10C2 fully disassembled.


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## Mjolnir (Mar 7, 2009)

I remembered hearing the "1 inch wide for gun mounts," so I assumed that that meant the body. Why would someone mount a light by its head?


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## edc3 (Mar 7, 2009)

Anyone have a P100C2 and a 6P? I'd love to see them side by side.


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## harddrive (Mar 7, 2009)

Mjolnir said:


> I remembered hearing the "1 inch wide for gun mounts," so I assumed that that meant the body. Why would someone mount a light by its head?



Because that way you could use standard gun mounts I suppose. I certainly wouldn't be doing it though. I imagine if it was Eagletac that was saying it will work with 1" mounts it was just marketing trying to appeal to the "tactikool" crowd.


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## Mjolnir (Mar 7, 2009)

A 6P & P100C2 comparison would be neat. I t would be interesting to see who wins, since they basically have the same features, except for the Eagletac being much brighter, costing half as much, and having 2 modes, and Hard anodizing. Hopefully they will have the durability of a surefire.


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## m16a (Mar 7, 2009)

Why does everyone say EagleTac is from China?? According to Eagletac-store.com....




> [FONT=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]EagleTac is an Arizona, U.S. based company that designs and produces precision tactical flashlights commonly used by professional, law enforcement, search and rescue teams and military fields.
> 
> EagleTac produces flashlights of widely varying sizes, power outputs, and battery sources. These range from the small pocket size P10C to the tactical glove-fitting T10C2. Battery sources range from the widely available AA batteries to common CR123 lithium batteries. One of the most popular EagleTac products is the T10C2. It is roughly the length of an AA Maglite® Mini-Mag, but produces roughly ten times the output of a typical three D-cell incandescent flashlight.




That seems to be made in the US IMHO..?
[/FONT]


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## edc3 (Mar 7, 2009)

> [FONT=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]EagleTac is an Arizona, U.S. based company that designs and produces precision tactical flashlights commonly used by professional, law enforcement, search and rescue teams and military fields.[/FONT]



Nowhere in the preceding paragraph does it say they are made in Arizona. The company is just based there. But I think the definitive word comes from the EagleTac packaging. "Designed in Arizona, U.S.A. Made in P.R. of China".

This doesn't make them bad - I really like the EagleTac lights I own. But it does make them made in China.


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## youreacrab (Mar 7, 2009)

Mjolnir said:


> A 6P & P100C2 comparison would be neat.





edc3 said:


> Anyone have a P100C2 and a 6P? I'd love to see them side by side.



G2Z .. close enough?


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## Superorb (Mar 7, 2009)

Nice looking lights. I'm addicted to Duraloops, so I'll probably pick up one of the P100A2 lights.

Anyone, how does the P10A compare to the P100A2?


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## Mjolnir (Mar 7, 2009)

Eagletac claims to be US based, but I am not sure If I believe their claim. If they truly were "designed in arizona," there is no reason why their website should have such horrendously bad grammar. I don't see how a flashlight can be "designed in the us" but have a website that was definitely not made by an american. The writing on the package and in the pamphlets that come with the lights also do not sound like they were written in the US. However, I know from my firsthand experiences with their customer service that they do have a location of some sort in the US. These inconsistencies sort of puzzle me. 
However, this doesn't change the fact that they make good lights (aside from the issues with the lenses and the reverse polarity spacers).


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## EngrPaul (Mar 7, 2009)

Makes me wonder how small a triple XP-E flashlight could be. 


Oops! Sorry, no more OT posts from me...


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## Mjolnir (Mar 7, 2009)

Or, instead of making a smaller light with 3, they could make one the same size as a triple XR-E with 6 XP-E's in it.:naughty:


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## youreacrab (Mar 7, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> Makes me wonder how small a triple XP-E flashlight could be.



Sorry for OT, but the answer is 20mm. 
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2713018&postcount=43


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## ernsanada (Mar 7, 2009)

I go my P100A2.

The tint on my light is a creme color. Very smooth for a SMO.






EngrPaul,

This is the rear of the Cree XRE module. I haven't tried to open it up.


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## EngrPaul (Mar 7, 2009)

Thanks Ernie, I was thinking quietly of asking. You read my mind! :wave:


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## ernsanada (Mar 7, 2009)

A lot bigger at the battery tube compared to the Fenix E20. In your hand you can feel the difference.


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## EngrPaul (Mar 7, 2009)

A beam comparison with E20 is probably in order...


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## nasa779 (Mar 7, 2009)

does anyone know the current draw for the p100c2, im looking for the best battery for the measured current draw of the flashie


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## ernsanada (Mar 7, 2009)

I'm getting ready to take some lux readings and shoot some beam shots. The drawback is we are all loosing 1 hour of sleep and I have to wake up at 4:00 AM tomorrow for work.

I should have a review sometime tomorrow evening Pacific Time.


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## Mjolnir (Mar 7, 2009)

Yeah, who needs daylight savings time anyway...
If we save daylight, that means there are fewer excuses to use our lights!


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## ernsanada (Mar 7, 2009)

EagleTec P00A2 (high) - 5150 lux @ 1 meter. I'm using Duracell Rechargeable 2650mAh nimh batteries.


EagleTec P00A2 @ 96"








Left, EagleTec P00A2. Right, Fenix E20 @ 96"






Left, EagleTec P00A2. Right, Fenix E20 @ 96" Stepped down exposure


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## Mjolnir (Mar 7, 2009)

It seems like the center of the P100A2 beam is slightly darker in the stepped down exposure. Is this noticeable at all?


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## youreacrab (Mar 7, 2009)

Mjolnir said:


> It seems like the center of the P100A2 beam is slightly darker in the stepped down exposure. Is this noticeable at all?



only when wallhunting


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## Chao (Mar 7, 2009)

I also got my P100C2, it's smaller and brighter than I expected, love it pretty much.
It's also a thrower, the lux reasing in high level was 7850 lux at 1m (cool!), low level: 2330 lux

I just quickly took beamshots

5m











10m















low level compare to SF E2L (45 lum version)


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## ernsanada (Mar 7, 2009)

I didn't notice the slightly dark spot until you mentioned it. It's not very noticible until you stare and pay attention to it. It takes me a couple of seconds for my eyes to see it.

I guess youarecrab is right "only when wall hunting".

It doesn't bother me.


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## ernsanada (Mar 7, 2009)

EagleTec P00A2 @ 32'


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 7, 2009)

Yeah, I did notice during the day today that there is a very slight donut in the beam, but it is really very much only noticeable during wall hunting. It really doesn't show up at all during night use.


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## etc (Mar 8, 2009)

Thanks for the pics, puts things into perspective.


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## Melven (Mar 8, 2009)

*EagleTac P100A2 First Impressions (Image Heavy)*

I just received my EagleTac P100A2 from 4Sevens today, I am very pleased with it so far. It is the brightest flashlight I own. The threads are good, and came pre-lubed. The forward clicky works as it should, and the UI is simple to use. Simply tighten the bezel for turbo mode, and loosen slightly for general mode. If you are a white wall hunter you should be fairly pleased with the beam, it does not have the dark ring you typically see with Cree XR-E emitters. The emitter in this light is a Cree XP-E Q5. The emitter surface area is much smaller than an XR-E. 

Now for some pictures:











Now for my first beam shots, the first is a control shot of the basket ball stand (36 feet from the camera) and a telephone pole (approx 50 feet from camera) in my back yard. The second is the general mode beam, and the third is turbo mode. These were all taken with the following camera settings: ISO 100, F2.6, 1 second exposure.
















Image sizes fixed 

Be gentle - this is my first attempt at beam shots


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## zx7dave (Mar 8, 2009)

*Re: EagleTac P100A2 First Impressions (Image Heavy)*

I like this light..but disappointed that it can't tailstand...


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## Zeruel (Mar 8, 2009)

*Re: EagleTac P100A2 First Impressions (Image Heavy)*



zx7dave said:


> I like this light..but disappointed that it can't tailstand...



+1 :sigh:


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## DM51 (Mar 8, 2009)

*Re: EagleTac P100A2 First Impressions (Image Heavy)*

Melven, you need to resize your pics - they are too large. Please see Rule #3.

_Edit: merging 2 similar threads..._


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## EngrPaul (Mar 8, 2009)

Thanks! I never bought an E20, and now, I'm not sure why I ever would. :tinfoil:



ernsanada said:


> Left, EagleTec P00A2. Right, Fenix E20 @ 96"


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## Mjolnir (Mar 8, 2009)

These don't tailstand because eagletac wanted to make a "tactical" flashlight, and I guess they felt that having the switch recessed would make it harder to press in stressful situations (some people complained about this on the original eagletac lights). 
I guess they wanted to please these people.


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## EngrPaul (Mar 8, 2009)

I have certain lights that I scatter around the house that the wife can pick up and use. 

She never expects it to tailstand, but she wants something easy to find and easy to press... she has poor strength in her hands.

I prefer innie, the wife prefers outie. I guess I should have some of both. :tinfoil:


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## richardcpf (Mar 8, 2009)

Seems like a nice alternative to Fenix LD series. Waiting for runtime graphs and output charts.


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## EPVQ30 (Mar 8, 2009)

another good head to head camparison would be the c2 and the pd30.


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 8, 2009)

*Re: EagleTac P100A2 First Impressions (Image Heavy)*



zx7dave said:


> I like this light..but disappointed that it can't tailstand...


Yeah, these lights are meant to have better access to the tailcap. EagleTac's previous design tried to be the best of both worlds with tactical and tailstanding, and it ended up being poor at both. The ridges were in the way for tactical use (or easy access if you prefer) and they were so small it was really unsteady during tailstanding. I give them credit for choosing one over the other. I have other lights that can tailstand. If I am desperate to use these, I can rig something up. These are for different purposes however. I prefer specific tools for specific jobs, I don't need one flashlight to do everything.


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## Zeruel (Mar 8, 2009)

*Re: EagleTac P100A2 First Impressions (Image Heavy)*



AardvarkSagus said:


> Yeah, these lights are meant to have better access to the tailcap. EagleTac's previous design tried to be the best of both worlds with tactical and tailstanding, and it ended up being poor at both. The ridges were in the way for tactical use (or easy access if you prefer) and they were so small it was really unsteady during tailstanding. I give them credit for choosing one over the other. I have other lights that can tailstand. If I am desperate to use these, I can rig something up. These are for different purposes however. I prefer specific tools for specific jobs, I don't need one flashlight to do everything.



I agree. Just that I wish they pick the tailstanding option :laughing:


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## phantom23 (Mar 8, 2009)

Chao said:


> I just quickly took beamshots
> 
> 5m
> 
> ...



Am I only one that noticed blue tint? Spot is nice though. Is that common to XP-E?

Eagle-Tac, make P100L and I'm sold.


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## Superorb (Mar 8, 2009)

I thought the P100 series was supposed to have more spill, but the beam shots suggest more spot and less spill.


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## richardcpf (Mar 8, 2009)

phantom23 said:


> Eagle-Tac, make P100L and I'm sold.


 
P100LC2


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## phantom23 (Mar 8, 2009)

richardcpf said:


> P100LC2



No, I want and need regulation


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## Mjolnir (Mar 8, 2009)

What is the vf of the XP-E's? Maybe if it is low enough they could make a light that had fairly decent regulation on cr123s and 18650's.


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## StandardBattery (Mar 8, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> Makes me wonder how small a triple XP-E flashlight could be.


*[OT] *That is a *top* idea! Which manufacturer will be first. *[/OT]*


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## naked2 (Mar 8, 2009)

harddrive said:


> I really don't need one but think I might get one anyway................


+1



Mjolnir said:


> A 6P & P100C2 comparison would be neat. It would be interesting to see who wins, since they basically have the same features, except for the Eagletac being much brighter, costing half as much, and having 2 modes, and Hard anodizing. Hopefully they will have the durability of a surefire.


:thumbsup:



DM51 said:


> _Edit: merging 2 similar threads..._


No wonder this thread (EagleTac P100 Series unboxing and initial impressions) got so big so fast!


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## EPVQ30 (Mar 8, 2009)

on the dimensions section for the c2 at eagletac-store.com it shows the length as 4.9" or 108mm but that conversion is wrong.

what is the actual length of this light?


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## radu1976 (Mar 8, 2009)

It's also a thrower, the lux reasing in high level was 7850 lux at 1m (cool!), low level: 2330 lux

[/quote]

Wow...the throw is pretty much the same like for FENIX T1/TK10 !!
And that in a much slimmer form factor !
And the runtime is supposed to be longer....
Though the sidespill is clearly less bright than the sidespill for FENIX T-Series
If the light is really regulated as EAGLETAC mentioned...well
THIS LIGHT WILL BE A GENERAL SUCCESS considering the output, the throw, the form , the regulation, the price :twothumbs


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## BigBluefish (Mar 8, 2009)

I see a P100C2 in my very near future. 2 levels, small light, 2 hours regulated on high, and no Klingonesque styling. And $42?!?! Just about perfect.


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## Duglite (Mar 8, 2009)

Mjolnir said:


> It seems like the center of the P100A2 beam is slightly darker in the stepped down exposure. Is this noticeable at all?


I noticed the same effect when I first wall-hunted with my newly arrived TK20. Thought it was an optical illusion. Light meter confirms a very slight variation of a few lux between center and the "brighter" donut (maybe 2 or 3 lux at 7 mtr.) But I don't notice it at all outdoors.


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## Melven (Mar 8, 2009)

phantom23 said:


> Am I only one that noticed blue tint? Spot is nice though. Is that common to XP-E?
> 
> Eagle-Tac, make P100L and I'm sold.




I have noticed this while white wall hunting, but not when actually using this outside. Since this was designed for throw, I would expect this to be used for lighting objects at a distance, rather than making a run to the bathroom (even in general mode it is too bright for this duty).


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## Federal LG (Mar 8, 2009)

P100A2 looks awesome for it´s quality and (specially) price!

How do you guys think it would be compared with Fenix TK20 ? I mean, in output (spill) and body size ?

When we´re outdoor, my girl always complain about my Fenix TK20 hotspot, because it´s "too focused!".

I´m searching some "medium flooder" powered by AA batteries, but I have one eye in this new P100A2 because of it´s price!


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 8, 2009)

Well, indoors the hotspot is very focused. It actually throws quite a tight beam, however the good news is that the XP-E is bringing back a corona to beams where the XR-E has a much more defined spot vs. spill. 

Even though the center spot is very tight, the transition is far more gradual.


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## youreacrab (Mar 8, 2009)

Federal LG said:


> P100A2 looks awesome for it´s quality and (specially) price!
> 
> How do you guys think it would be compared with Fenix TK20 ? I mean, in output (spill) and body size ?
> 
> ...




the eagletac 100 series has a nice spot that isn't as focused as a thrower like the tk20. at about 75 feet, it will open up and cover a broad area whereas the tk20 is still a defined circle.


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## Chao (Mar 8, 2009)

Here is the runtime graph of my P100C2, it's cool, the 17670 works perfect. (my beamshots please see #64)

lux readings: 2xCR123A 7850 lux, 1x17670 7860 lux, RCR123Ax2 7820 lux






One more picture of size comparison





--------------------------------------------
3/9 Update: add 2xRCR123A runtime to the graph


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## edc3 (Mar 8, 2009)

Very cool! Thanks Chao.


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## Mjolnir (Mar 8, 2009)

So it has flat regulation with a 17670! That is excellent. It might be due to a lower Vf like the TK11 R2. Either way, that is good that it is that regulated with both voltage ranges. If only they had made the tube a little wider... Then they would have a light that is regulated on both 18650's and cr123's for $40 dollars oo:.
Still, the option to run a 17670 is still good, especially at such a low price.

P100LC2 anyone?


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## Melven (Mar 8, 2009)

The only complaint I have with the P100A2 is that the lanyard ring is very hard to attach, and I ended up chipping the anodizing in one small spot after I decided to remove it. The ring did not fit well either! The only reason I tried it out was I thought it would be nice as an anti roll feature - but I found it to get in the way and be annoying.


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## AFAustin (Mar 9, 2009)

Chao,

Thanks for the very great beamshots and the runtime graphs---very helpful and just the ticket to induce me to pull the trigger on a P100C2. :devil:

Did you happen to check the runtime on 2xRCR123As?

Also, is the E2DL in your beamshots the original Cree 1-stage model? I was struck by how similar the P100C2's beam on "regular" is to it---both as to hotspot and as to the fairly dim spill. Do they seem that close in person?

Thanks again.


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## Chao (Mar 9, 2009)

Thanks for the kind words
I will do runtime test with 2xRCR123A and update it later.
Yes, my E2DL beamshots was the 1-stage model, and I think P100C2 and E2DL both have similar hotspot size showed in beamshots (E2DL was a little bigger actually), however E2DL has much uniform brightness at the whole hotspot area, but the spill in P100C2 is feel brighter than E2DL.

I pull beamshots of both lights together here for convenient. 

5m








10m


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## Axion (Mar 9, 2009)

Man o man, I'm itching to buy one of these, I'm so excited to finally see lights without the dreaded dark ring around the hotspot. Now if they just release one with a 5A emitter I'm sold.

After getting a M30W and an M60W I really find it hard to like any light with dark rings in the beam or blue tint. Seems like 5A XP-E's could bring decent beams to the wider market.


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## gooseman (Mar 9, 2009)

I just received my P100A2 in the mail ... the emitter is off center on mine also :thumbsdow. 

One annoying thing I'm noticing is that at distances over 5 meters, the center of the hot spot is slightly dimmer than the periphery. This is noticeable outside (I did some night time trail running with it on my Fenix headband). My JetBeams with smooth reflectors are similar in this respect; although the P100A2 isn't as bad as my JetBeams.


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## 276 (Mar 9, 2009)

Your not alone with the emitter being off centered but i don't notice it in mine unless i look at the led but not when i am using it.


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## josean (Mar 9, 2009)

*Re: EagleTac P100A2 First Impressions (Image Heavy)*



Melven said:


> I just received my EagleTac P100A2 from 4Sevens today, I am very pleased with it so far...



4Sevens?

Could you please indicate the link? I have been browsing the store an I can't find EagleTac products there. :candle:


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## Zeruel (Mar 9, 2009)

*Re: EagleTac P100A2 First Impressions (Image Heavy)*



josean said:


> 4Sevens?
> 
> Could you please indicate the link? I have been browsing the store an I can't find EagleTac products there. :candle:



What he meant was the EagleTac Store, although it's the same store....basically. :shrug:


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## ergotelis (Mar 9, 2009)

Well, excellent, thanks Chao! The runtime graph is very helpful!Another point to mention is that the runtime is almost 2 hours, so, the emitter is not driven hardly up to 1Amp, it should be getting about 0,7amp i guess.Also it seems like the low vf can make it hold regulation, is there any other reason?


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## ernsanada (Mar 9, 2009)

My P100A2 emitter is off center.







You can tell when you wall hunt while turning the head 360 degrees.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 9, 2009)

AardvarkSagus said:


> Well, indoors the hotspot is very focused. It actually throws quite a tight beam, however the good news is that the XP-E is bringing back a corona to beams where the XR-E has a much more defined spot vs. spill.


That is good news - I have come to enjoy beams with wide coronas (e.g. Nitecore D10 GDP over the standard Cree Q5/R2).

Looking forward to receiving my P100A2. Runtimes will be added to my 2xAA round-up review when it gets here (but likely a couple of weeks, since it just shipped).


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## 1996alnl (Mar 9, 2009)

Chao said:


> Here is the runtime graph of my P100C2, it's cool, the 17670 works perfect. (my beamshots please see #64)
> 
> lux readings: 2xCR123A 7850 lux, 1x17670 7860 lux, RCR123Ax2 7820 lux
> 
> ...


 
Thanks buddy,i was going to hold back on getting the P100C2 until i saw that it'll run regulated on a 17670 cell for over an hour and a half.
Too hard to pass up at this price.


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## Phaserburn (Mar 9, 2009)

I am extremely impressed about the P100C2 circuit! I cannot think of any other light that has such flat regulation using 3.7 - 8.4V input range.


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## 1996alnl (Mar 9, 2009)

Phaserburn said:


> I am extremely impressed about the P100C2 circuit! I cannot think of any other light that has such flat regulation using 3.7 - 8.4V input range.


 
Same here. I think EagleTac just raised the bar.
Makes me wonder why the other manufacturers don't do the same. For that price


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## Chao (Mar 9, 2009)

ernsanada said:


> My P100A2 emitter is off center.
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell when you wall hunt while turning the head 360 degrees.



My P100C2 's emitter is also off center.


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## Phaserburn (Mar 9, 2009)

Chao said:


> My P100C2 's emitter is also off center.


 
I just posted a poll here in this new thread specifically around the P100 Series initial quality; there seems to be alot of comments. I'd like to see and quantify how many others have noticed some issues, if I have an irregular unit, or is mine typical of what others have recieved.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/225419


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## MarPsyco (Mar 9, 2009)

These look NICE! This makes it even harder to pick my next 2AA light. Currently mainly thinking about Eagletac P100A2 and Fenix TK20 and considering a couple others too.

Aah, the agony of choice. But I'm going to wait for a detailed review and maybe a torture test of these.


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## phantom23 (Mar 9, 2009)

I just edited ernsanada's pic and both XP-E and white cover seem slightly off centered:








richardcpf said:


> P100LC2



After Chao's graph - P100LC2 is fine


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## Nake (Mar 9, 2009)

On the Fenix Rebels, the white disc was stuck to the reflector with a tiny amount of grease. It could be moved around for centering, that is provided you could disassemble it. I don't have a P100, just thinking it might be the same.


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## f22shift (Mar 9, 2009)

i wish they would just allow the heads to be dissambled on all flashlights so that ppl can center it who are picky like me. :wave:
that's centered enough by cpf standards.


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## Phaserburn (Mar 9, 2009)

Current draw data (low/hi):

2 x R123 - 80/400ma
2 x 123 - 90/530ma
1 x 17670 - 130/760ma

Effects of the regulation circuit are evident, with current draw rising as voltage declines.

If this circuit does indeed provide the same table-flat regulation for all three power sources, albeit with differing runtimes, I'd nominate it for "Circuit of the Year". This is something other manufacturers can't seem to do; witness the large number of lights (all of them) that are either accepting of a voltage range (with poor/no reg on single li-ions), or single li-ion only (and even then, less than perfect regulation).


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## Chao (Mar 9, 2009)

Phaserburn said:


> Current draw data (low/hi):
> 
> 2 x R123 - 80/400ma
> 2 x 123 - 90/530ma
> ...



Thanks for this information, although the lux readings I tested look similar with different batteries, but the pattern is consistant with current draw, I think the current draw is more precisely to reflect the circuit.

My readings are 2xCR123A 7850 lux, 1x17670 7860 lux, RCR123Ax2 7820 lux


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## Chao (Mar 9, 2009)

I am just digging my memory, the iTP E50 and Jetbeam M Ti also regulated very well with different batteries, don't know whether they have similar circuit.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 9, 2009)

Phaserburn said:


> If this circuit does indeed provide the same table-flat regulation for all three power sources, albeit with differing runtimes, I'd nominate it for "Circuit of the Year". This is something other manufacturers can't seem to do; witness the large number of lights (all of them) that are either accepting of a voltage range (with poor/no reg on single li-ions), or single li-ion only (and even then, less than perfect regulation).





Chao said:


> I am just digging my memory, the iTP E50 and Jetbeam M Ti also regulated very well with different batteries, don't know whether they have similar circuit.


Those other lights are well regulated, but still not perfectly flat on 3.7V Li-ion. 

Off the top of my head, the only 2xCR/RCR light that is flat on 18650 that I can think of is the Lumapower Encore. It also has consistent output levels on all 3 battery types. Looks like the P100C2 could be similar.

But you'll also note that the Encore is not driven as hard as some of the other lights. Judging from the current draws posted here, the P100C2 may be a similar case (i.e. a Med-Hi only version of the Encore circuit, with maybe slightly higher output?)


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## phantom23 (Mar 9, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> Those other lights are well regulated, but still not perfectly flat on 3.7V Li-ion.



Not perfectly flat but still very good (especially E50) and with no sudden death ( like in Encore).


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## harddrive (Mar 9, 2009)

Chao said:


> Thanks for the kind words
> I will do runtime test with 2xRCR123A and update it later.



Have you had a chance to do a runtime test with 2 x R123 yet Chao? I actually sold my 17670s a while ago and now only have 18650 and R123s. I am hoping the runtime/regulation is still OK with R123.


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## Chao (Mar 9, 2009)

Sure, I just added the RCR123A curve to the graph (#95) minute ago


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## harddrive (Mar 9, 2009)

Thanks heaps! Looks like the R123s will do fine. I can't wait for mine to arrive.


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## 1996alnl (Mar 10, 2009)

What i find even more impressive about this light is we have about 5-10min to change the batteries.
The light doesn't just "fall off the table". So i won't be scrambling for a :candle:
Correct me if i'm wrong but i think this circuit is embarrising the competition


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## Superorb (Mar 10, 2009)

Are there runtime graphs of the P100A2 on eneloops? I know EagleTac used them, but I'd like to see independent results.


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## Phaserburn (Mar 10, 2009)

I'm very impressed that the 17670 gets 40 mins more runtime than the 2xR123s, and only 25 less than primaries (which are over the manufacturer rated runtime of 120mins).


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 10, 2009)

There appears to be a lot to be impressed by with this light. I am absolutely loving it and have already sold several of my friends on them!


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## DM51 (Mar 10, 2009)

In case people have not yet seen these in the Reviews section:

EagleTac P100A2 Review by ernsanada
EagleTac P100C2 Review by Tekno_Cowboy


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 10, 2009)

Nice, I have reviews written for both lights but I haven't posted them because I am waiting to mate them up with pictures. I'll probably post only one here and both will find their way to my site.


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## kyhunter1 (Mar 10, 2009)

Awesome! Good regulation with a single 17670 and primaries! Mine is on it's way.... The waiting is the worst part about it. 





Chao said:


> Sure, I just added the RCR123A curve to the graph (#95) minute ago


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 10, 2009)

Review added


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## harddrive (Mar 11, 2009)

Has anyone else done runtime plots to compare with Chao's? 

Is it fair to assume all the P100C2s will perform that well on a 17670 it could it be due to a very low emitter vf on his particular light? I am hoping all will be the same but I am not very knowledgeable with that sort of stuff.


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## nanotech17 (Mar 11, 2009)

Chao said:


> Sure, I just added the RCR123A curve to the graph (#95) minute ago



this light is one  dude :twothumbs
and it is identical to the new Novatac 2xcr123 almost.


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## Tohuwabohu (Mar 14, 2009)

This is the runtime graph of my P100C2:




I get 80 minutes before my P100C2 drops out of regulation with my Ultrafire 17670. I think it would look even better with a higher quality battery.


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## phantom23 (Mar 14, 2009)

I hope there's some space to bore the tube to fit 18650. About this graph - weird part is 17670s seems to have slightly more capacity than 2xRCR.


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## AFAustin (Mar 14, 2009)

Thanks for that, Tohuwabohu. I was thinking this was going to be an RCR123A light, but with that performance on a 17670, including the nice tail, I'm thinking 17670 is the way to go. Looking forward to mine.


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## Tohuwabohu (Mar 14, 2009)

I forgot to mention that the protected Ultrafire 17670 did not fit into the battery tube because the protection pcb was to big and off center.
I had to remove the protection circuit.
A protected 17650 from AW should fit.
The Ultrafire 17670 had 1800mAh printed on it but I tested it at 1300mAh.
I did not yet measure the capacity of my AW 16340s.


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## harddrive (Mar 14, 2009)

Thanks Tohuwabohu!


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## EngrPaul (Mar 14, 2009)

True or false, the more centered the emitter, the more of a donut hole you get.

True for the two I have. :ironic:


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## f22shift (Mar 15, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> True or false, the more centered the emitter, the more of a donut hole you get.
> 
> True for the two I have. :ironic:


 
lod?


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## nanotech17 (Mar 15, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> Thanks for that, Tohuwabohu. I was thinking this was going to be an RCR123A light, but with that performance on a 17670, including the nice tail, I'm thinking 17670 is the way to go. Looking forward to mine.


a friend of mine just got his from 4sevens and my AW17670 fit in his P100C2 with no issue at all ( i would love to have this light in my collection if only i have my job back :shrug: )


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## nanotech17 (Mar 15, 2009)

i also tested the NEX switch module in the P100C2 and it works with less audible and much softer to press as i found out that the stock switch module is kind of hard while fully engaged the switch,Fenix forward clicky module not fit unless you file the edge of the board.


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## Tohuwabohu (Mar 15, 2009)

I just finished the general mode runtime on 2 Surfire CR123A's.






Recording runtime data of Eagletac flashlights in general mode is boring.
In the case of the P100C2 I had to wait for more than 15 hours before anything happened. I'm not sure if I will repeat this test with a 17670 or two RCR123's.

And, once again, the turbo mode data. I changed the language and the number format:


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## Sharpy_swe (Mar 15, 2009)

Great graphs!

Thanks!

:twothumbs


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## Melven (Mar 17, 2009)

The more I use my P100A2, the more I appreciate the XP-E led that it uses. The beam is so much better than my XR-E based lights. For $40 you just can't got wrong!


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## AFAustin (Mar 17, 2009)

I also am really liking my P100C2. I've only had it a couple of days (well, nights :candle, but it really looks to be a winner. I was pleasantly surprised with how small it is---much sleeker and more compact than the photos led me to believe. It disappears pretty easily in a pocket or in your hand. And, the knurling, as many have said, is outstanding---very pronounced and grippy. This light simply has a great look and a great feel.

The beam is quite nice, with a smallish hotspot up close, but which spreads out at a distance and blends well into the corona, which in turn transitions well into the spill. Output on high is impressive, and on regular is plenty for most tasks. 

I like the battery options---2xCR123A, 2xRCR123A, or 1x17670 (my flat top variety 17670s do need a magnet for contact). I haven't tested runtime myself, but if mine gets close to what has been shown in the excellent charts that others posted, I will be happy.

The simple UI suits me fine---I have a bit of "UI overload" at the moment, and was hankering for a light whose manual I didn't have to study just to operate it. The head twist action to change levels is fine---not too loose, but easy enough to operate one handed when holding the light underhanded. The great knurling on the head also helps in this regard.

Finally, on the bang-for-the-buck scale, this is about the best value in a light I've experienced since the Fenix EO1---in other words, a screaming bargain, IMHO.

In sum, good job, Eagletac---I like this light! :thumbsup:


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## LEDAdd1ct (Mar 17, 2009)

LEDAdd1ct: Doctor, I know I already have some other lights, but I need this new one.

Doc: An Eagle-Tack, you say?

LEDAdd1ct: Yes. 

Doc: And this uh...XP-E thing...it's uhh...new?

LEDAdd1ct: Yes, Doc. You see, I *need* this new light because-

Doc: I see. I think we are going to have to up your medication and lock away your credit cards...


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## Burgess (Mar 18, 2009)

Doctor: " Nurse, schedule some Electro-Shock therapy. "


Flashaholic: " Great ! I'll bring the Batteries ! ! ! "





_


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## Sharpy_swe (Mar 18, 2009)

Burgess said:


> Flashaholic: " Great ! I'll bring the Batteries ! ! ! "
> _



:devil:


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## 1996alnl (Mar 19, 2009)

I just recieved my P100C2 today.
All i can say is WOW! What a fanatastic little light.The quality is top knotch,in fact if someone was to hand me this light with my eyes closed i would think it's a Surefire..that's how good it feels in hand.I guess you can tell i'm a fan of good quality knurling.
Looking over the light i was very impressed with the HAIII finish,the switch has a nice firm feel (a man's switch:thumbsup to it.
The threads were lubed from the factory and they are HAIII at both ends not just the tailcap,no thread wear from switching modes.
The emitter on mine looks perfectly centered BUT the what looks like a silver washer thats around the LED isn't perfectly centered.
However it doesn't effect the beam too much.
I'm VERY impressed with the output from this light and the beam is smoother than alot of my SMO reflectored lights
This light is a must have.
I highly recommend it.
It puts most of my other lights to shame..and i have a good 15 or so and most of them cost several times more than this one.


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## youreacrab (Mar 19, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> I also am really liking my P100C2. I've only had it a couple of days (well, nights :candle, but it really looks to be a winner. I was pleasantly surprised with how small it is---much sleeker and more compact than the photos led me to believe. It disappears pretty easily in a pocket or in your hand. And, the knurling, as many have said, is outstanding---very pronounced and grippy. This light simply has a great look and a a great feel.
> 
> The beam is quite nice, with a smallish hotspot up close, but which spreads out at a distance and blends well into the corona which in turn transitions well into the spill. Output on high is impressive, and on regular is plenty for most tasks.
> 
> ...


 
:thumbsup: Glad you're enjoying it!


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## AFAustin (Mar 19, 2009)

youreacrab said:


> :thumbsup: Glad you're enjoying it!



I am indeed---and thanks for the great deal on it, youreacrab! :thanks:


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 19, 2009)

The more I use these little things the more I like them. I am hard pressed to find a better value in lights at this point of the game. I certainly hope these hold up in the durability department, because that is going to be the true clincher.


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## nanotech17 (Mar 20, 2009)

here are some beamshots vs the malkoff M60.
P100C2 with 2xAWrcr123.
M60 with 2xAW17500 + Solarforce L2 extension tube + UCL.
P100C2 always on the left.






2 stops auto WB





2 stops day white fluorescent light balance.


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## Superorb (Mar 20, 2009)

If $40 for the P100 series is too much, you could always spring for a Romisen RC-N3 Q5 2-mode from Shiningbeam for around $26 shipped.


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## AardvarkSagus (Mar 20, 2009)

nanotech17 said:


> here are some beamshots vs the malkoff M60.
> P100C2 with 2xAWrcr123.
> M60 with 2xAW17500 + Solarforce L2 extension tube + UCL.
> P100C2 always on the left.



I'd say that keeps pace rather well actually.


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## 1996alnl (Mar 21, 2009)

I think it's safe to say the light's output is accurate with it's advertised rating.
Still can't get over that beam.Cree scored a grand slam with this XP-E emitter and Eagletac too with the design and quality on this piece.


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## Mjolnir (Mar 21, 2009)

So are we calling this a "win" for Eagletac?


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## kyhunter1 (Mar 21, 2009)

Boys, this light is awesome. Just got mine. I have officially bought my last 6P! Eagletac all the way.


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## EngrPaul (Mar 21, 2009)

*Pros:*

Low entry price.

Great output, throw, and beam smoothness.

Well-built, works smoothly.

Works with rechargeables.

Very grippy

*Cons:*

Anodizing wears quickly on front of bezel and back of head.

Terrible lanyard ring. One was all twisted up and became broken in the middle after putting the tailcap on. Both just spin and are generally too large.

Donut hole in beam

Dusty inside lens and reflector

No tail standing.

Front standing is unstable with 2AA version.

Ready to scratch anything it rubs against.


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## 276 (Mar 21, 2009)

Huh.. mine has no donut or dust and can stand on its head just fine.


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## 1996alnl (Mar 22, 2009)

276 said:


> Huh.. mine has no donut or dust and can stand on its head just fine.


 
I think he meant tail standing,which alot of people don't care for.
Mine doesn't have a dougnut hole either,in fact it's perfect.
I'm so impressed with this light that i'm ordering another and gift it to a family member.
As far as anodizing wearing out..that's how i prefer it.I like a light with a nice used petina to it. I can't figure out how some people are concerned about keeping a light looking new,these are tools not shelf trinkets.
Use it don't abuse it and if it gets nicked so what now it's personalized just for you.


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## 1996alnl (Mar 22, 2009)

Mjolnir said:


> So are we calling this a "win" for Eagletac?


 
F##K YEAH!


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## Nake (Mar 22, 2009)

1996alnl said:


> I can't figure out how some people are concerned about keeping a light looking new,these are tools not shelf trinkets.


 
To some people lights are collectibles, haven't you noticed.


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## EngrPaul (Mar 22, 2009)

The 2AA version is tipsy when sitting on the three flanges of the bezel (head) and rechargeables installed in the back. Bump it and see how long it takes to recover. Compare it to other 2AA's you got.


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## Mjolnir (Mar 22, 2009)

Not being able to tailstand IS NOT a con; it is neutral. I personally like tailstanding, but there are probably just as many people who don't like it. It's really just a design choice. I remember a few people here complaining about the tailstanding on the first eagletac lights because it made them hard to turn on.


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## EngrPaul (Mar 22, 2009)

What are the choices if you want to sit the light down on a hard surface? Head only. Otherwise it falls over and rolls away.


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## Delta1067 (Mar 22, 2009)

Has anyone found a pocket clip for this light yet? Does the Novatac Clip fit?


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## 1996alnl (Mar 22, 2009)

Nake said:


> To some people lights are collectibles, haven't you noticed.


 
I personaly don't purchase my lights for an investment however if i was i'd purchase two of the same and lock one away.


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## Superorb (Mar 23, 2009)

Delta1067 said:


> Has anyone found a pocket clip for this light yet? Does the Novatac Clip fit?


I was curious about this too. I want something to prevent the light from rolling off my desk.


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## harddrive (Mar 25, 2009)

I've been using my P100C2 for the last week or so. It is an incredible light especially for the price. The beam is so much better than any of my XR-E based lights and holds its own in terms of throw and overall brightness. 

It feels great in the hand and the simple twist to changed levels is great. Most of my lights are single mode because I hate levels changing with the switch. This UI is nice as there is no chance of an unintentional change to low mode. If I'd payed $100 for this light I would still be raving about how good it is. :twothumbs


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## 1996alnl (Mar 26, 2009)

I think this is a win-win situation for EagleTac in the sense that this light can and will probably sell in high volume.
Here's an interesting hypothetical analysis.
Lets say a non flashoholic is in the market for a new what i call a house flashlight you know the one that's usually thrown in a junk drawer in the kitchen in case of a power outage.
He/She walk into a brick/mortar store and walk down the flashlight aisle and the small EagleTac box catches their eye,and the higher price tag.
Looking over the variety of lights he/she notice that the "better" lights are all over $29.99 and not as bright or the same quality as the EagleTac according to the PAS (promotional asvertising poster) material.
He/She picks up a pkg of AA batteries and a P100a2 and walks to the checkout.
I think a non flashoholic will pay $40 for a flashlight. If EagleTac sold their lights in retail stores i'm sure they would do well.

Just my opinion which is worth as much as you paid for it


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## Superorb (Mar 26, 2009)

I don't think the majority of non-flashaholics would pay $40 for a light. My GF thinks I'm crazy for spending $20 on a Romisen let alone $50 on my Lumapower. People are used to seeing the $3-$5 jumky flashlights and feel they don't need to spend a ton when the crappy one will do just fine for them. That is, until they actually need to use it.


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## 1996alnl (Mar 26, 2009)

Superorb said:


> I don't think the majority of non-flashaholics would pay $40 for a light. My GF thinks I'm crazy for spending $20 on a Romisen let alone $50 on my Lumapower. People are used to seeing the $3-$5 jumky flashlights and feel they don't need to spend a ton when the crappy one will do just fine for them. That is, until they actually need to use it.


 
That's where some PAS material or even a demo comes in handy.
When someone thinks a 15 lumen piece of crap is a flashlight to have they don't know what their in for when they see 200+ lumens blasting in front of them.
The next question will be: "how much?"
answer: "$40"
response:"oh..well that's not bad."

Having said that my wife is the same way as your girlfriend,it must be a guy thing.


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## BigBluefish (Mar 26, 2009)

Superorb said:


> I don't think the majority of non-flashaholics would pay $40 for a light. My GF thinks I'm crazy for spending $20 on a Romisen let alone $50 on my Lumapower. People are used to seeing the $3-$5 jumky flashlights and feel they don't need to spend a ton when the crappy one will do just fine for them. That is, until they actually need to use it.


 
I unfortunately agree with Superorb on this one. The average joe or jane just doesn't care about flashlights. The issue is, they don't think they need a quality light. To them, the price of a Maglite is over-the-top (and looking at $33 at WalMart for the new Mag LED's...I'm also thinking THAT price is a bit high). 

There are some backpackers / campers and other outdoor types who will pay more attention to and spend more for lights than others, and there's the "tactical" minded / gun enthusiast civilians, and people who realise they need a quality light for their job. Then there are the cops, fire, EMT, and military, guys who will see the value of a quality light, and spend the money. They'll buy a good light, if a decent one isn't issued - these are all the guys and gals who buy Surefires instead of 2D Ray-O-Vacs and plastic Eveready lights for $5 - $10. 

But I don't think that is a particularly broad market, even though I'm a member of several of its sub-groups. 

If EagleTac goes into brick and mortar stores, they should concentrate on places like Cabela's, EMS, REI, Bass Pro, and gun shops, rather than Wal-Marts, and Targets or Home Depo. Next to Surefires, the EagleTacs will look like another quality light, and a bargain. Next to "regular" lights in a "regular store," they'll appear out of place and over-priced.


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## Mjolnir (Mar 26, 2009)

If Eagletac sold these in sporting goods/outdoors stores like REI or EMS (for those who don't know, it is another outdoor retailer that we have in the northeast US), then they could probably sell a decent amount. Many of the lights in these stores are around 30 dollars and up, and people do buy them. I don't think people would have a problem spending 40 dollars on a light advertised at 200 lumens when it is sitting next to 25 dollar light that is advertised at 40 lumens.
However, I'm not sure if Eagletac is a big enough company to distribute their products on this large of a scale.


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## 1996alnl (Mar 26, 2009)

The Lowes by me sells a few different flashlights that's priced the same as the EagleTac.
Come to think of it i saw a Led Lenser (3xAAA) with a focusable plastic optic and an emitter that was about 5 years outdated for $49.99 (this was the most expensive one i saw),i asked a clerk if the higher priced lights sell well he said "oh yeah."

Now i think these type of retailers aren't very good for expensive (over $100) flashlights as most customers walk in to purchase some crown mouldings or whatever,and a flashlight purchase would just be an impulse buy. An actual outfitter retailer would be better.

Having said that if i saw the EagleTac next to a Dorcy 6xAAA 120 lumen for $39.99 or that Led Lenser 3xAAA 80 lumen for $49.99 hmm..makes me wonder which one the average joe would buy.


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## makuyo (Apr 1, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> True or false, the more centered the emitter, the more of a donut hole you get.
> 
> True for the two I have. :ironic:



oh shoot!! cant agree more...
my p100c2 led is perfectly centered..

and guess what... a disturbing ring of light...
the donut hole appears not just while whitewall hunting, but also in actual use...:sick2:

test the throw at around 50m.. n there u go... still a noticeable hole in the spot on the grass from my apartment..
hmm.. maybe XP-E led should do better with OP instead of SMO....

arghh.. wish i didnt ask the dealer to give me a perfect centered one, a slight off-centered might be better...:mecry:


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## Phaserburn (Apr 1, 2009)

Mine is slightly off center; beam has no donut.


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## kenL (Apr 1, 2009)

Hey guys, just got my P100C2 and the emiitter is off center too, but no donut. Overall the light is very bright and smooth. I did a quick comparison between my fenix L2D Q5 and the P100C2 is alot brigther and throw farther. It is hard to beat this light both in price and size.


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## kenL (Apr 1, 2009)

Now I need a holster for my p100c2. Anyone know when will be available? or would a fenix P3D holster will fit?


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## makuyo (Apr 2, 2009)

i don't think i need a holster..:naughty:











since mine has a nice clip on it to be my edc...
i wont nag that much for it's beam...
(hey come on, consider the price man~)


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## makuyo (Apr 2, 2009)

i found out that the switch used for my P100C2 needs a little more pressure to light it up for momentary-on...

i've compared with my Wolf-eyes Champion-X and indeed the pressure i apply using my thumb is more on the P100C2 compared to the Champion-X...
(im using my thumb at the middle part, not the end of my thumb that is sore)

so i took out an extra switch meant for my NDI and replace the P100C2 switch..

my question right now is, will the NDI switch in my P100C2 survive if i use two CR123 or maybe two RCR123 in the EagleTac P100C2??..
right now im just using 17670 and of course 3.7v wont hurt the switch since im using 3.7v 14500 Li-ion in my NDI too... how about 6v or more??


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## Delta1067 (Apr 2, 2009)

*Pocket Clip*



> since mine has a nice clip on it to be my edc...


makuyo, Where did you get the clip for your light??


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## makuyo (Apr 2, 2009)

*Re: Pocket Clip*



Delta1067 said:


> makuyo, Where did you get the clip for your light??



actually that's the clip meant for Wolf-Eyes Champion-X...
i took the clip of my champion place it on my EagleTac P100C2...

took some time for me though..
the diameter of the clip is bigger than the light, so i stretch a small o-ring from my fenix spare part to put it there before placing the clip for a tight fit...
(use this method too if your lanyard ring is kinda big should get a nice tight fit)
then i used another o-ring to hold down the clip...
tightening the tailcap will put everything at it's place..
darn it is hard...

i will do battery changes through the head, im not thinking of messing up with the tailcap+clip for now...

and btw, i apply a thin layer of tape at the part of the clip where it is having contact with the head..
(*1st pic, note the white line at the clip where it having contact at the head)
im just making sure it wont wear of the ano quickly...


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## selfbuilt (Apr 9, 2009)

FYI, the P100A2 has now been added to my 2xAA round-up review.

Despite the slightly offset emitter, this light actually has the greatest throw of any of my 2xAA lights. oo:

Output and runtime on Hi/Lo are very similar to the Fenix L2D on Turbo/Med.

P.S.: Romisen RC-N3 II (2-stage) and Lumapower Connexion X2 2xAA (extension tube) have also been added to the review.


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## Tempsho (Apr 11, 2009)

Which of these 2 lights would have a better flood? The T10L or the new T100C2? (both running on a single 18650)


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## defloyd77 (Apr 11, 2009)

3 questions. 

1. How does it compare beamwise with the Fenix L2T Q2, I assume smaller hotspot with less but brighter spill? I'm pretty sure I read the L2T's reflector is different/deeper than the L2D's, is this right?

2. From what I'm reading, one would be better off asking for a slightly off centered LED. Do you guys think all of the ones that do have the off center leds aren't screw ups and the centered ones are as they result in a donut hole?

3. Why did I freakin' have to come across the P100A2? I want it now and I'm freakin' broke. Ugh thanks again CPF lol


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## Zeruel (Apr 11, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> Despite the slightly offset emitter, this light actually has the greatest throw of any of my 2xAA lights. oo:



'Nuff said. I'm getting one.


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## 1996alnl (Apr 11, 2009)

Zeruel said:


> 'Nuff said. I'm getting one.


 
You won't be disapointed.

I'm surprised no one else has come out with this new emitter yet. Looking at how small this XP-E is one would think it belongs in a cheap little keychain gizmo putting out 5 lumens at best,then you turn it on and BAM! 
Very impresive.


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## phantom23 (Apr 11, 2009)

Tempsho said:


> Which of these 2 lights would have a better flood? The T10L or the new T100C2? (both running on a single 18650)



T10L. It'a also smaller and fully regulated (emitter Vf doesn't matter).


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## josean (Apr 12, 2009)

I received My Eagletac P100A2 some days ago, and I will recommend this light with no doubt. :twothumbs

This light has an excellent ratio quality/price. In fact, I shown this flashlight to several people, and they are very interested right now in getting one for themselves.


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## Zeruel (Apr 13, 2009)

I received my P100A2 today and tested it for night use.
This thing is BRIGHT for a 2 x AA. Found one tiny HA defect, not a big deal. Definitely a good buy for its price. 

Pity it doesn't come with holster :shrug: I don't mind paying a few bucks more for a dedicated EagleTac holster for this. AND the LED is off-center, with a donut on the hotspot.


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## kenL (Apr 13, 2009)

H i guys anyone having problem turning on your P100c2? sometimes it takes 3 click on my to turn on this light? I am using a proctected AW 17670. I am wondering if the AW 17670 is a bit shorter compared to two 123,s


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## Melven (Apr 13, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> The 2AA version is tipsy when sitting on the three flanges of the bezel (head) and rechargeables installed in the back. Bump it and see how long it takes to recover. Compare it to other 2AA's you got.



Mine is rock steady when standing on its head. (I do this once in a while to charge some GITD)


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## 1996alnl (Apr 13, 2009)

kenL said:


> H i guys anyone having problem turning on your P100c2? sometimes it takes 3 click on my to turn on this light? I am using a proctected AW 17670. I am wondering if the AW 17670 is a bit shorter compared to two 123,s


 
I'm using AW 17670 cells in mine with no issues.
Take the switch apart and clean it ,reassemble it and see how that works.
I find that most of the time my lights just need a bit of maintenance and they work like new.


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## 1996alnl (Apr 18, 2009)

Well i finally got my clip from EagleTac-store.
It fits but it's a bit loose so it will spin freely..not a good thing so i used two rubber o-rings.
One on top the other on the bottom of the clip,problem solved it's nice and snug now.
This is what this light needs,i would of paid a bit extra for the light if it had this clip.


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## PhantomPhoton (Apr 19, 2009)

Played with the P100C2, P100A2 (got one of them for my mom) and the T100C2 last night thanks to [email protected] TheP100A2 worked well right out of the box. Only problem was the wire lanyard clip didn't fit onto the light when I was trying it out.
All are decent lights, and I think the T100C2 is going to do very well. I liked it a lot. No big complaints - at least with the demo model. We'll see how well the production models to in a week or two I guess.


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## defloyd77 (Apr 19, 2009)

1996alnl said:


> Well i finally got my clip from EagleTac-store.
> It fits but it's a bit loose so it will spin freely..not a good thing so i used two rubber o-rings.



Do you have a pic? 

Well I just had a rummage sale and now I have a few extra bucks, so I'll be getting me the A2 and I'm wanting to get the clip, but I want to know how much of the tail would stick out of a pocket when I use the clip tail up.

Also are these OTF lumens?


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## bigfish5 (Apr 19, 2009)

PhantomPhoton said:


> Played with the P100C2, P100A2 (got one of them for my mom) and the T100C2 last night thanks to [email protected] TheP100A2 worked well right out of the box. Only problem was the wire lanyard clip didn't fit onto the light when I was trying it out.
> All are decent lights, and I think the T100C2 is going to do very well. I liked it a lot. No big complaints - at least with the demo model. We'll see how well the production models to in a week or two I guess.


 

can you give us any thoughts on the t100? i have one on order,, how does it throw, and so on.


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## 1996alnl (Apr 19, 2009)

defloyd77 said:


> Do you have a pic?
> 
> 
> Also are these OTF lumens?


 
Here you go.
I do believe it's emitter lumens..i could be wrong,regardless these lights are super bright for their size.


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## defloyd77 (Apr 19, 2009)

Thank you 1996alnl! The A2 would definately have too much tail sticking out for my tastes if the clip was up by the head, but might be too long to have it at the tail heads down. It'd also be nice if you didn't have to do the o-ring trick to get the clip snug as I'd like to be able to reverse the clip as easily as possible to use on a hat. Did the clip wobble at all or move up and down without the o=rings?


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## PhantomPhoton (Apr 20, 2009)

bigfish5 said:


> can you give us any thoughts on the t100? i have one on order,, how does it throw, and so on.



As I said I think the T100C2 is going to be favored. Gives the TK11 a run for it's money, throw seemed quite similar. Knurling was good, the tactical ring worked better than the tiny little one used in previous Eagletac T10 series lights. Was a bit smaller than a TK11, kinda had a 6P feeling to it. Still not sure if the T100P2 is going to be well regulated with an 18650... woulda' needed a lot more time to play with it than what I had. But it will hopefully stay in better than other lights due to the supposed low VF XP-E LEDs that I'm told are being used.


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## 1996alnl (Apr 20, 2009)

defloyd77 said:


> Thank you 1996alnl! The A2 would definately have too much tail sticking out for my tastes if the clip was up by the head, but might be too long to have it at the tail heads down. It'd also be nice if you didn't have to do the o-ring trick to get the clip snug as I'd like to be able to reverse the clip as easily as possible to use on a hat. Did the clip wobble at all or move up and down without the o=rings?


 






You gave me an idea,normaly i like to carry my lights head down but i figured i'd see how the clip would look reversed.
Not too bad.

The clip does wobble a bit without the o-rings,as far as removing the clip,it's childs play.
Simply slide the o-rings with your thumb no need to remove them then pop out the clip.
Takes about 10 seconds.
Don't know how this would work with the P100A2 as i don't have one.


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## defloyd77 (Apr 20, 2009)

1996alnl said:


> You gave me an idea,normaly i like to carry my lights head down but i figured i'd see how the clip would look reversed.
> Not too bad.[/QUOTE]
> 
> I just ordered my P100A2 and decided to try my luck with the clip. Seeing that pic reassures me that I won't regret buying it, as it looks like the A2's head is about the same length as the C2's, so it would definately work good in my pockets, I'd just have to get used to not clicking on the head lol. Thanks a million!


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## defloyd77 (Apr 23, 2009)

Are there any diffusers, 2 dimensional (a disc type) or 3 dimensional (wand style) that fit on these?


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## kenL (Apr 26, 2009)

HI All, I have been using my P100C2 with AW 17670 protected batteries over a month now and so far is pretty good. Last night I took the battery out and took a measurement using my multimeter and I got a reading of 2.85 and this morning I took the reading again and I got 3.10. Funny thing is that the battery still run fine in the flashlight. I read somewhere in this forum that anything below 3.5 is overdischarge. I am using an IBC charger. My question is should I throw the battery or should I try charging it? I am scare that will go  in my house. Anyone know anything about lion-rechargeable batteries is greatly appreciated.


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## 1996alnl (Apr 26, 2009)

kenL said:


> HI All, I have been using my P100C2 with AW 17670 protected batteries over a month now and so far is pretty good. Last night I took the battery out and took a measurement using my multimeter and I got a reading of 2.85 and this morning I took the reading again and I got 3.10. Funny thing is that the battery still run fine in the flashlight. I read somewhere in this forum that anything below 3.5 is overdischarge. I am using an IBC charger. My question is should I throw the battery or should I try charging it? I am scare that will go  in my house. Anyone know anything about lion-rechargeable batteries is greatly appreciated.


 
Your battery is fine.
Just charge it. I've been using 17670 cells in my P100C2 also and it works flawless.
At 2.85V my light does get dimmer though.
Unless my memory serves me correctly these cell should not go below 2.2V.
The protection circuit should kick in anyway.
Enjoy your light.


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## kenL (Apr 26, 2009)

1996alnl said:


> Your battery is fine.
> Just charge it. I've been using 17670 cells in my P100C2 also and it works flawless.
> At 2.85V my light does get dimmer though.
> Unless my memory serves me correctly these cell should not go below 2.2V.
> ...



Thanks alot for your help. I am happy to heard that. I thought all 18650 and 17670 batteries empty under 3.5v.


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## Mjolnir (Apr 26, 2009)

I believe you should not let your batteries go under 3.5V without a load (i.e. when you are taking the readings with a volt meter). If the battery is protected it should cut off around 2.7V, but that is at load.


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## kenL (Apr 26, 2009)

Mjolnir said:


> I believe you should not let your batteries go under 3.5V without a load (i.e. when you are taking the readings with a volt meter). If the battery is protected it should cut off around 2.7V, but that is at load.



So you saying that I should charge my batteries before it reaches under 3.5v? I am using AW 17670 protected li-ion


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## Burgess (Apr 26, 2009)

Yep !

_


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## Mjolnir (Apr 27, 2009)

If it is protected, then it should cut off when it is supposed to. If you are using unprotected cells, I believe 3.5 V is a good point to recharge your batteries at. 2.2 for any Li-Ion cell is way too low.


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## Wingman (Apr 27, 2009)

I ordered a P100C2 last Thursday and received it on Saturday. This is an awesome light as others have already noted. I had no problem with the quality of the anodizing, threads, or operation of the light. It would be nice if it came with a case but I picked one up at Lowes for $9.00. It's a heavy duty nylon universal case with a swivel belt clip. It will fit anything from a mini mag up to my 2d mag lite. They say it will fit up to a 1.5 inch barrell. The elastic is very heavy duty so even the smaller P100 is a tight fit. I think you would wear the anodizing off in short order if the light was in and out of the case often. I snipped some of the elastic and now it's a perfect fit. Tight enough to hold the light firmly, but not enough to be tough on the anodizing. The belt clip is large enough to fit Leo duty belts and has a curved bottom lip so the case cannot accidentally slip off of your belt if pushed upward. 

One question on batteries. I picked up a pair of Surefire cr123's just to get the light operating. Is their a preferred battery brand/type for the P100C2 now that people have had them for awhile. 

Thanks


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## Mjolnir (Apr 27, 2009)

I don't think that taking a light out of a holster made out of fabric/elastic should wear away real Type III hard anodizing. If a piece of metal has a hard time scratching it, then I seriously doubt fabric will do anything. You might get some slight wear on edges though, which is where the anodizing is weakest. The smooth areas should not wear noticeably (however, the knurling might; keep in mind it is much cheaper than other lights with HA-III).


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## Wingman (Apr 27, 2009)

I suppose it wouldn't hurt the anodizing but the holster sure holds the light in a vise like grip. If people like that, then no mods would be needed. Still, I think it's a pretty good holster for $9 bucks.


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## kenL (Apr 27, 2009)

Mjolnir said:


> If it is protected, then it should cut off when it is supposed to. If you are using unprotected cells, I believe 3.5 V is a good point to recharge your batteries at. 2.2 for any Li-Ion cell is way too low.



What is the cut off point for an AW 17670 protected battery? So far I got a reading at 2.8v and my p100c2 still work perfectly. If I let it run until the cut point, say around 2.5-2.2v then it should be okay, no? :thinking: I am using AW 17670 protected oh course.


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## AFAustin (Apr 28, 2009)

Wingman said:


> One question on batteries. I picked up a pair of Surefire cr123's just to get the light operating. Is their a preferred battery brand/type for the P100C2 now that people have had them for awhile.
> 
> Thanks



I likewise really like my P100C2---terrific light in many ways, esp. for the money. I've run it on 1x17670, 2xRCR123As, and currently have a couple of CR123A primaries in it. All have done fine. I threw the partially used primaries in mainly just to use them up, but this light just sips at them on low, where I've mainly used it---I can't get rid of them! 

Chao did some great runtime charts on the P100C2, on all 3 cell types, in this same thread---see, e.g., post 124.


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## Wingman (Apr 28, 2009)

Thanks Dave. I did see that. It looks like the CR123A's are the way to go. I was curious if there was a particular brand that people found worked better than another or is the typical CR123A you find at Wally world as good as any.


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## 1996alnl (Apr 28, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> I likewise really like my P100C2---terrific light in many ways, esp. for the money. I've run it on 1x17670, 2xRCR123As, and currently have a couple of CR123A primaries in it. All have done fine. I threw the partially used primaries in mainly just to use them up, but this light just sips at them on low, where I've mainly used it---I can't get rid of them!
> 
> Chao did some great runtime charts on the P100C2, on all 3 cell types, in this same thread---see, e.g., post 124.


 
A 17670 cell is my choice because of the capacity,i get really good runtimes.:twothumbs


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## Wingman (Apr 28, 2009)

I'm glad you mentioned this because it's something I don't understand. According to the graphs a couple of people have been nice enough to create/post, the CR123A batteries (I believe referred to as primaries) have a run time of aprox. 130 minutes on high. The 17670 has a run time of aprox. 80 minutes with both having similiar tails. 

But several people have said that the 17670 would be their choice. So it's not clicking with me why the 80 minute runtime battery would be preferred over the 130 minute runtime battery.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Apr 28, 2009)

Wingman said:


> ...the CR123A batteries (I believe referred to as primaries) have a run time of aprox. 130 minutes on high. The 17670 has a run time of aprox. 80 minutes with both having similiar tails.
> 
> But several people have said that the 17670 would be their choice. So it's not clicking with me why the 80 minute runtime battery would be preferred over the 130 minute runtime battery.



Primaries are single-use batteries which you throw in the garbage once they are used up. Rechargeables, well, you recharge them and use them again.

CR123A = Primary cells = throw in the garbage once used up

17670 = Rechargeables = charge them up and use them again

Here on CPF, we call that "Guilt Free Lumens," because you do not have to purchase new cells each time you use a light. So, many people would gladly take the shorter runtime for a cell type that you can use over and over again. :welcome:


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## kyhunter1 (Apr 28, 2009)

Free lumens. 17670's are rechargeable. 



Wingman said:


> I'm glad you mentioned this because it's something I don't understand. According to the graphs a couple of people have been nice enough to create/post, the CR123A batteries (I believe referred to as primaries) have a run time of aprox. 130 minutes on high. The 17670 has a run time of aprox. 80 minutes with both having similiar tails.
> 
> But several people have said that the 17670 would be their choice. So it's not clicking with me why the 80 minute runtime battery would be preferred over the 130 minute runtime battery.


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## Wingman (Apr 28, 2009)

Thanks guys. I appreciate the responses. Now would I be correct in assuming that going the rechargable route would be more practical if the light get's frequent use and the primaries would be more practical for less frequest use. 

My knowledge of rechargable battery technology is somewhat dated. In the past, you could not just leave batteries in the charger once fully charged. But once removed, their shelf life was fairly short (self discharge rate). So it wouldn't make sense to me to charge up a set of batteries, throw them in the light, but not use the light for several days. At that point, the batteries would be some amount less than fully charged and the expected runtime could be shorter than expected. 

Now maybe today's battery/charger technology has changed and the batteries CAN be left in the charger until needed. Or, the self discharge rate is so low that even after several days, the battery would still be at 90 something percent of it's max charge making the runtime a non issue.


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## AardvarkSagus (Apr 28, 2009)

I would have to say that, Yes, your information is slightly outdated as to today's rechargeable technology. The Li-ion rechargeables are far more protected against self-discharge (basically not prone to it at all) and still will retain the vast majority of their power when sitting idle for over a year even. Li-ion cells also require the use of intelligent chargers that will shut off once the cell has reached full capacity allowing you to leave it in the charger longer. Just as a general precaution, it is still a good idea to take it out once charging is complete, but maybe not 100% necessary.

Also even rechargeable AA cells are no longer prone to the aforementioned issues if you pick up specially branded low-self-discharge Ni-MH cells such as the Sanyo Eneloops. Even after a year on the shelf I believe they retain 70-85% of their initial power. Smart chargers for these cells are also easily available relatively inexpensively.


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## alohaluau (Apr 28, 2009)

Beaten to the post by AardvarkSagus! oo:

Gotta learn how to type faster... 

Hey Aardvark,

Do I really need smart chargers for LSD NiMh batteries? I'm using something call ReZAP Battery Doctor which I've bought from the local K-Mart...

Cheers,
Luau
I've stopped buying standard NiMH and gone with LSD batteries now...


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## Wingman (Apr 28, 2009)

AardvarkSagus, thanks again for the reply. I'll check out the battery section for sources and recommendations.


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## AardvarkSagus (Apr 28, 2009)

As far as I know, the "semi-smart" chargers are ok as well. If I remember correctly those are basically run via internal timer, but the smart chargers are much better for battery life and longevity. It'd be best to head over to the battery section for these questions though since my knowledge is pretty cursory. 

From what I can tell though the ReZap is a smart charger. Just checking out their site though.


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## ronparr (Apr 29, 2009)

Mjolnir said:


> Eagletac claims to be US based, but I am not sure If I believe their claim.



If you purchase from EagleTac-Store.Com, you will you receive an email with that contains the following interesting line:

"For help with any of our online services, please email the store-owner: EagleTac-Store.Com Team: [email protected]"


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## AardvarkSagus (Apr 29, 2009)

EagleTac-Store is a 4sevens owned retailer, not the official company. PTS Flashlights also retails in the US and I think there are others as well. EagleTac lights are designed in US (according to claim) but I believe manufactured in China. I don't know where the overall ownership lies.


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## Nightstalker1993 (May 20, 2009)

sorry for reviving this thread, but just got my P100A2 and pretty excited about it!

made a short video testing its waterproof-ness too, can go swimming with confidence :devil:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHsmXyNZkOo


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## ergotelis (May 20, 2009)

2 weeks ago i had made a post about the waterproofness of P100A2. I had a problem so i sent it back for RMA.
Today, i received the new one and at first, i was a bit dissappointed:
The emitter was off-centered!The one i had was not like that.
I turned it on,but i couldn't see any different beam profile, it was the same like the old one, even though the led is off center!
Then, i put it on the multimeter to take some tests, with a pair of fresh batteries. I was a bit suprised then, with fresh batteries and at the same driving current(tested with multimeter) with previous one, i was getting higher lux readings!About 800 lux more at the hotspot!

So, all i have to say is that, don't worry about the off-centered emitter. I had an almost centered emitter before RMA, now, i have one clearly off-centered. But the new one,the off-centered, seems to focus better! :twothumbs
I might guess that eagletac is puting the emitters a bit off centered intensionaly.


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## Nightstalker1993 (May 20, 2009)

My emitter is also slightly off-centered, with a slight dark spot in the middle of the hotspot too, but barely noticable unless ure going white-wall hunting 

tried to disassemble it but failed badly...

manage to remove the spring-loaded clip thingy, but can't seem to budge the pill at all....

btw bro, have u tested for the watertightness of ur new light?

mine's pretty good lol...


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## ergotelis (May 20, 2009)

Nightstalker1993 said:


> My emitter is also slightly off-centered, with a slight dark spot in the middle of the hotspot too, but barely noticable unless ure going white-wall hunting
> 
> tried to disassemble it but failed badly...
> 
> ...



At the first test, there was some water in the head. I tried to open it to clean it, but i couldn't ,it was very well glued.That is why i sent it to rma. I am living overseas, so sending it back for rma takes a lot of time,it is a pain. If this one i have is not glued or if i can unscrew the pill easily, i will try a test again. Else i won't! :green:

Just for the record, the first P100 was producing 7050 lux, with the new one and the off centered emitter i am getting 8000+ lux! More than 800 lux difference that i said!


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## Nightstalker1993 (May 20, 2009)

Pretty much proves that urs is a defective unit to begin with, 2 defects in 1 unit lol...

but seriously, how do you remove the pill?

it just won't budge!


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## ergotelis (May 20, 2009)

Nightstalker1993 said:


> Pretty much proves that urs is a defective unit to begin with, 2 defects in 1 unit lol...
> 
> but seriously, how do you remove the pill?
> 
> it just won't budge!



It is glued, so it either needs some heat or a good tool with some power to unscrew it. Don't ask more, i haven't managed this, but some others have!


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## copperfox (May 20, 2009)

I was in the same boat. I got the silver ring off by twisting it out, but once that piece was removed I was totally unable to budge the pill using split-ring pliers. I even heated the head with a blowdryer - no luck. Almost fubared the switching mechanism trying to get it working again, but I was eventually successful. I think they used some sort of super ultra powerful glue in there...


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## Nightstalker1993 (May 21, 2009)

i suspect the glue they use is some kinda thermal paste, like those used on processors, as i noticed the heatsinking on this is pretty good.

the light gets to warm-hot in about 10-20 minutes of usage, and i'm not just talking bout the head, but the whole light, even the clicky section...


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