# EagleTac P10C Review (1xCR123A/RCR) - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!



## selfbuilt (Sep 29, 2008)

_*Reviewer's Note: *This is a review of the EagleTac P10C (1xCR123A/RCR) light. The P10C was purchased from lighthound.com, but I know 4sevens is also offering them at EagleTac-store.com._

EagleTac is a new arrival on the flashlight scene. Although their various builds seem superficially reminiscent of a few other makers (most especially Olight), there are a number of distinctive features. Circuity is also interesting, as these are simple 2-stage lights (e.g. reminiscent of the Fenix LxT series, mode switching performed by a head twist). How does the 1xCR123A/RCR P10C light stack up to the competition? Scroll down and see ...







Packaging is very reminiscent of current Surefire packaging. 






Light comes with a removable bi-directional pocket clip, manual, extra o-ring, extra switch boot cover and wrist lanyard.

_UPDATE: Some users have reported removing the clip on Eagletac lights can scratch the anodizing in the clip ring groove. But I've found that adding a little teflon oil lube to the area first reduces the risk._






As you can see, size fits in pretty well with the larger 1xCR123A/RCR lights. 

Weight: 67.0g
Length: 94mm
Width: 26mm at the head, 23mm at the tailcap


















The P10C is of very high quality. All components feel very sturdy, and everything fits together well. Screws threads are top-notch, and very smooth. Tailcap threads are anodized, allowing tailcap lockout. Hand feel is excellent. Light can tailstand, and comes with a forward clicky. A real stand-out. :thumbsup:

Lettering is remarkably sharp and clear. Type-III anodizing is perfect throughout the body of the light - although it is somewhat worn off along one edge of the clip on my sample.










The light features an attractive stainless steel bezel ring, and the head assembly seems of high quality. The reflector is very deep, with what I would describe as a light orange-peel texturing (LOP). Interestingly, there's a greenish tinge when looking at the reflector, most noticeable when the light is on:






This is likely due to the anti-reflective coating on the lens - but it doesn't seem to affect beam tint appreciably. The deeper reflector and low level of texturing should translate into decent throw. To get an idea, here are a few beamshots - below is a comparison to the Fenix P2D (Q5) and JetBeam Jet-II IBS, all lights on max (pics taken ~0.5 m from a white wall).


















As you see in the pics, the P10C throws very well – better than the P2D, but not as well as the Jet-II. Surprisingly for a light OP, it also has a very nice beam profile with minimal Cree rings. For a more detailed throw/output comparison, see my Summary chart below.

*Testing Method:* All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for the extended run Lo/Min modes which are done without cooling.

Throw values are the square-root of lux measurements taken at 1 meter from the lens, using a light meter.

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*






As suggested by the beamshots, throw on the P10C is very good – it rivals that of my Surefire E1B and NiteCore Extreme. The Jet-II lights (also OP reflectors) remain the throw champions, however. 

Overall output is quite interesting. The P10C is very close to the max output of the NiteCore Extreme and Jet-II IBS/PRO on RCR (although my Jet-II IBS still has a slight edge). 

On primary CR123A, there is no contest – the P10C is the clear winner. Simply put, the P10C’s initial output on CR123A is even slightly higher than its RCR output.  That's a new one for me - it is certainly something none of the other contenders can match. 

Of course, I expect this will result in a significant runtime reduction as a trade-off ... 

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*










... and it does.  As you can see, runtime for the P10C on CR123A is the lowest of any of my 1xCR123A lights. This is not surprising – something has to give for that kind of output. Its RCR runtime performance is quite respectable, though.










*UPDATE SEPT 30, 2008: Upon further testing, it seems I've managed to elicit 2 distinct "Lo" output levels on primaries (shown as 1st run and 2nd run above). Although I've managed to get the higher 1st run output (i.e. ~50 on my scale) a couple of times, most of the time the light has produced 2nd run output (i.e. ~30 on my scale). See the end of this post for a discussion.*

The "Lo" mode of the P10C is really anything but  – output is typically comparable to Med on most lights. On RCR, "Lo" is about 40% of Hi output, and with very impressive runtime. The light is clearly current-controlled to achieve that kind of performance. 

On CR123A, "Lo" is typically also ~40% of Hi - although I've also elicited a ~60% "Lo" mode on couple of occasions (see discussion at the end of this post). Performance for the expected ~40% output level is also quite good. 

Although hard to see on the graphs, the light seems to have a low voltage flash to indicate a nearly depleted cell. Looks something like a repeated flicker.

*Potential Issues*

A couple of minor issues popped up during my testing. Once when switching from Hi to Lo on a new CR123A battery, the light mysteriously dropped to a very low level (far less than normal Lo). It refused to jump back to normal Lo/Hi levels, even after removing and re-installing the primary cell. The light started working normally again after inserting an RCR – after that, the original primary CR123A worked as expected (see end of this post for a further discussion).

Another time, near the end of a CR123A run, the light suddenly began flickering badly (continuously, in a separate manner from the low voltage flicker). Simply handling the light (i.e. picking it up and looking it over) caused it to start behaving normally again.

These two incidents suggest some sort of intermittent contact problem. I’ve given the light a thorough cleaning, so hopefully I won’t see any more of these. I’ll keep you posted if the problems persist. 

*General Observations*

EagleTac has certainly impressed with the build quality of this little light. oo: For a relatively unknown company, their first offerings seem to have been designed with great care and thought. I really can’t find much to fault on the P10C build, except perhaps that the forward clicky is stiffer than most - and the clip gets in the way somewhat of easily tightening the tailcap. Other than that, it is a pleasure to hold and use.

Output/performance design is a bit unusual. On Hi, EagleTac definitely seems to be targeting the "Damn the torpedoes! Full speed ahead!" audience. :laughing:

While my Jet-II IBS was marginally brighter on RCR, I believe the P10C really matches the Jet-II and NiteCore Extreme (not EX10) for maximal output on Li-ions. Considering the variability of individual emitters, you could easily have any one of these 3 lights outperform the others by a slight margin, in a given sample. 

Where there is no question is on 1xCR123A – the P10C was the clear output king.  Of course, that comes with a price – the P10C has the lowest runtime on 1xCR123A of any of my lights. 

The second unusual feature is the "low" mode, which at ~40% of max output is high enough to qualify as Med on most lights. I would think a better descriptor for this light is not Lo/Hi, but a "power-saving" Regular mode and a Turbo mode. While runtime on RCR and CR123A was excellent for this "low" level, the lack of anything actually approaching a real "low" is disappointing. At least the circuit seems well optimized for performance at these levels. 

Given the very high build quality, I would be very interested to see what EagleTac could do with more versatile circuit. The amount of throw and smooth spill on such a relatively small reflector/head design is particularly impressive. Not to overdo the pun, but I would think EagleTac should have a bright future in this business ...

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*UPDATE SEPT 30, 2008:*

Ok, I think I've figured out what is going on with the Lo mode on primaries. Initially, I was getting inconsistent results - sometimes Lo mode was ~60% of max output, sometimes it was ~40% of max output. I was also getting a strange unexplained extremely low mode (<3%) a couple of times after switching primaries - something that was only cured by swapping in a RCR.

*After a thorough cleaning of the light with deoxit on all contact surfaces, I am now only getting the ~40% output level consistently.* Based on the RCR results and the reports of others, this seems to be the appropriate Low level. 


I am not sure where the ~60% output level was coming from, but I was able to reliably reproduce it half a dozen times at first. Note that I never got an intermediate value - it was either ~60% or ~40% each time I tried (except for the strange <3% mode that occurred twice). I'm just guessing here, but I wonder if the circuit doesn't have a few extra disabled modes that were somehow accidentally triggered by a contact problem (e.g. like the mysterious SOS mode on the Lumapower Incendio)? :thinking:

A second point is that I was commonly changing the battery by removing the head, since the tailcap is difficult to tighten fully with the protruding clip in the way. I'm wondering if that wasn't contributing to "confusing" the circuit somewhat when switching batteries (i.e. somewhat like the Novatac 120P - most of the time I can switch between RCR and primaries without problem, sometimes I need to do the battery mode reset once or twice to get it working properly). I am now switching the battery only at the tailcap, and have not experienced any more mysterious modes. 

I will let you know if it stays this way - but I'm curious is anyone else has experience these issues?


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## adirondackdestroyer (Sep 29, 2008)

Good review as always!

Edgetac sure is going for super high output with the expense of runtime. That has to be the shortest runtime I've ever seen on a single cell LED light.


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## EngrPaul (Sep 29, 2008)

I think the green is the reflection bouncing off the inside of the glass back into the reflector, not the reflector itself.

Thanks for another great review!


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## Monocrom (Sep 29, 2008)

A very nice review. 

The Potential Issues section has me a bit concerned. Please be sure to let us know if they crop up again.

Two questions:
~~~~~~~~~~

1 - How easy is it to pull the light out of a pocket? It seems that it would sit lower in a pocket than an SF E1B, possibly leaving little to grab onto if the light is needed in a hurry.

2 - Would you say this light is a good alternative to an E1B? Considering price and excluding the lack of a true low-mode.


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## SuperLightMan (Sep 29, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> A very nice review.
> 
> The Potential Issues section has me a bit concerned. Please be sure to let us know if they crop up again.
> 
> ...




First post here (or reply for that matter, though i've been lurking and reading around for a while before i decided to create a username )

I, personally, prefer the low rider clip on the P10C. However, I ended up with the P10A, which i think would suit your need of "quick-draw", as more of the tail sticks out of the pocket than that of the P10C.

I'm preparing a review of the P10A also. Just haven't had the time to do so.


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## MorePower (Sep 29, 2008)

I wonder if you got a bad sample of the light. Mev's review showed consistent output on "low" with RCR or primary cells, and runtime with primary on low was longer as would be expected.

Great review, as always.


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## DM51 (Sep 29, 2008)

Great review. EagleTac has arrived in style. The words "very high build quality" stand out, and surely this promises good things from this company in future.

Moving to the Review section.


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## Cheapskate (Sep 29, 2008)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> Good review as always!
> 
> Edgetac sure is going for super high output with the expense of runtime. That has to be the shortest runtime I've ever seen on a single cell LED light.



I think you mean Eagle Tac ?


Excellent review as usual Seflbuilt. :thumbsup:


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## EngrPaul (Sep 29, 2008)

Selfbuilt,

Did you get one of the C2 models ?? (2-cell)

TIA


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## I came to the light... (Sep 29, 2008)

Thanks for the thorough review 

I am wondering about the runtime on CR123 low too. Mev got 8 hours out of it, although the rest of the runtimes matched. 

EngrPaul - the green tint is the result of a green antireflective coating, meaning that it does not bounce back and forth, but it rather filtered on the first pass.


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## jirik_cz (Sep 29, 2008)

Looks like it deserves some hype after all :tinfoil:
But I don't see much sense in 10% more output in price of 70% shorter runtime than Nitecore Extreme with CR123...


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## cheetokhan (Sep 29, 2008)

Hey Selfbuilt, any plans to review the T series EagleTac lights?
I have the T10C and would like to see how it's beamshots compare to your other lights. Mine has a wonderfully smooth, wide beam. I just wish it had a more feature-full UI like my Nitecore EX10GD or my Jet II IBS. I really like the ultra low modes they both have.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 29, 2008)

Wow, this review has certainly sparked a lot of attention! 



Monocrom said:


> 1 - How easy is it to pull the light out of a pocket? It seems that it would sit lower in a pocket than an SF E1B, possibly leaving little to grab onto if the light is needed in a hurry.


Yes, the P10C bezel down in a pocket is harder to grab than the E1B. The clip is also tighter than my E1B (at least, new), making it harder to extract. Of course, that's not necessarily a bad thing ... I once made the mistake of carrying my E1B bezel down on my belt, and it popped off during a hike in woods.  If a friend of mine hadn't noticed, it would still be sitting with the leaf litter. Since then, I only the carry the E1B bezel down in a pocket. 



MorePower said:


> I wonder if you got a bad sample of the light. Mev's review showed consistent output on "low" with RCR or primary cells, and runtime with primary on low was longer as would be expected.





I came to the light... said:


> I am wondering about the runtime on CR123 low too. Mev got 8 hours out of it, although the rest of the runtimes matched.


I would certainly expect ~8 hours on primary on low if the output was the same as the RCR low. The problem seems to be mine is much brighter on primaries. It could be my sample is defective to have the higher output ... but if so, I'm afraid that doesn't say much about their QC. I've got another light going in the lightbox right now, but I'll try a few other brands of batteries later and see what happens.



EngrPaul said:


> I think the green is the reflection bouncing off the inside of the glass back into the reflector, not the reflector itself.





> EngrPaul - the green tint is the result of a green antireflective coating, meaning that it does not bounce back and forth, but it rather filtered on the first pass.


That seems likely ... I realized as I was writing the review that it seemed unlikely to be the reflector - makes a lot more sense if its a coating on the lens. It doesn't seem to affect the overall beam tint much.



EngrPaul said:


> Did you get one of the C2 models ?? (2-cell)





cheetokhan said:


> Hey Selfbuilt, any plans to review the T series EagleTac lights?


No, I thought I would just try this one out (so I could add it to my 1xCR123A round-up). I'm not really inclined to pick any more 2-stage lights on my own coin (although the T series do look interesting). I would be willing to review them if EagleTac wanted to send them to me. And before anyone offers, I don't test loaners from other members.  Too many potential hassles with shipping, insurance, risk of damage during testing, etc. Besides, if a manufacturer is going to benefit from having their products tested, I figure they should be on the hook for covering the costs.


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## EngrPaul (Sep 29, 2008)

selfbuilt said:


> Besides, if a manufacturer is going to benefit from having their products tested, I figure they should be on the hook for covering the costs.


 
Thanks for your answers.

A lot of people wait for [your] reviews before buying lights. I agree, you should be getting the light gratis! :wave:


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## Monocrom (Sep 29, 2008)

Thanks for the response, selfbuilt.


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## EngrPaul (Sep 29, 2008)

My o-rings all have a "flat spot". It looks like they have a weak point, and when they are installed it ends up being thinner than the rest. Anyone else? 

Here is the worst one, it looks bad even off the light. I will be throwing it away.






The second worst one I put in the gap where I removed the clip. (Removing the clip exposes bare aluminum because the clip scratches the anodizing.) You can see the weak spot in this picture.






This will soon be replaced with an GID O-ring from Sigman.

I have some spare orange o-rings from a Huntlight that I used in their place. Looks nice (inside).


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## EngrPaul (Sep 29, 2008)

My only other issue with the light is the very thin material at the lanyard holes. Metal split rings need not apply.






*Don't get me wrong, I love my light 100% and can live with these conditions.*

Mine is clearly brighter than a P3D-Q5 and much easier to twist the head to change modes.

I love how bright and white and smooth this light is. I can't believe such a small head throws so well!!!


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## wacbzz (Sep 29, 2008)

Thanks for the review. 

Yet another EagleTac review that speaks very positively about the light...now hopefully all the "pre-sale" doubters will come back and enjoy telling us about how good the crow has tasted.


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## Philbee (Sep 29, 2008)

I have both the P10A and P10C2.
O-rings are perfect on both.

Great review as always selfbuilt.:twothumbs
Hopefully it will help lay to rest the negativity that has been shown to both EagleTac and the owners of these fine EagleTac lights from certain quarters on this forum. 

Interesting to read the opinionated comments of those who have never handled let alone own one of these beauties.


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## Philbee (Sep 29, 2008)

wacbzz said:


> Thanks for the review.
> 
> Yet another EagleTac review that speaks very positively about the light...now hopefully all the "pre-sale" doubters will come back and enjoy telling us about how good the crow has tasted.


 
:devil::devil: Oh how true, couldn't have said it better myself.:thumbsup:


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## Monocrom (Sep 29, 2008)

Philbee said:


> :devil::devil: Oh how true, couldn't have said it better myself.:thumbsup:


 
Wow, the fan boys are out in force. 

As far as eating crow.... Sure, just as soon as Eagletac passes the barbeque sauce. But I guess it's easy to forget that Eagletac brought most of the negative comments on themselves..... 

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/206394

I think my favorite one was when Eagletac listed their American-based Authorized Dealers. Four in total.... And three of them came forward to say that nothing was finalized.... Ooops!

Now I just recently learned from another CPFer that the pocket carry clips on the 2xCR123 models, designed for bezel-up carry, are useless since the light hangs off to the side when clipped inside a pants pocket. That CPFer saved me some money.


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## wacbzz (Sep 29, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> Wow, the fan boys are out in force.
> 
> As far as eating crow.... Sure, just as soon as Eagletac passes the barbeque sauce. But I guess it's easy to forget that Eagletac brought most of the negative comments on themselves.....
> 
> ...



No, EagleTac didn't bring anything upon themselves. It was the people here that took something and ran with it, hereby serving as the all too often "CPF welcome society." You guys knew nothing about the lights...

Now, about that crow...you questioned then and now rehashed about the "Authorized Dealers" thing...and those three dealers ended up selling the lights-because they realized that the lights _are_ that good. 

Funny, I wonder what those same dealers have to say now that they are selling those lights...:ironic:

Anyway, have you bought your light(s)yet??



Monocrom said:


> How about the fact that even though I really want to try out a couple of Eagletac models for myself, I can't!
> 
> I live in America. Three of Eagletac's four Dealers currently don't carry their lights because no agreement to do so has been finalized. As for the fourth dealer, Lighthound has a very well-deserved reputation. I've made several multiple orders with the Hound over the past few months. I'd be more than happy to give John more of my money, by ordering a P10C, T10C2, and a P10A2. (The 3 Eagletac models I'm most interested in).



*OR...*are you still letting the "integrity" thing get in your way?


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## Monocrom (Sep 29, 2008)

wacbzz said:


> *OR...*are you still letting the "integrity" thing get in your way?


 
Well, for some folks "integrity" actually is important. While others have no clue what that word means or even laugh at it, thus showing their ignorance.

As for those Authorized Dealers, you might want to look on Eagletac's own site again. None of the original three U.S.-based Dealers I mentioned are listed as carrying Eagletac models. Lighthound was the fourth Dealer on the original list of Authorized Dealers. Pacific Tactical Solutions was added later. 7777s changed his mind, but the other two haven't. 

Just thought I should clarify that point.


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## cheetokhan (Sep 29, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> Wow, the fan boys are out in force.



I realize you meant that to be an insult, but I'll happily admit to being a fan of well built, high quality lights with bright, wide, absolutely flawless beams.

Now, If EagleTac would come out with a 2XCR123 or a 18650 model that used the Piston Drive from my Nitecore EX10, I would be a full fledged fanboy instead of just a fan.

What comes after fanboy? I'm still new at all these childish internet slang insults.


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## Monocrom (Sep 29, 2008)

cheetokhan said:


> I realize you meant that to be an insult, but I'll happily admit to being a fan of well built, high quality lights with bright, wide, absolutely flawless beams.
> 
> Now, If EagleTac would come out with a 2XCR123 or a 18650 model that used the Piston Drive from my Nitecore EX10, I would be a full fledged fanboy instead of just a fan.
> 
> What comes after fanboy? I'm still new at all these childish internet slang insults.


 
Nope! Meant it as sarcasm, since the company is so new; it would be pink if it were a living creature. Curious that Eagletac has already started to develop a blind following. Actually, I'm a fan of the same things you are. But I also look for long-term durability from my lights. That comes with time. I guess we'll see if Eagletac becomes more than just the Flavor of the Month, and perhaps earns the type of reputation enjoyed by Fenix lights.... Still, there's no short-cut to such a reputation. A handful of positive reviews is what it is. But it's no short-cut. 

I think fan-fanatic comes next. :huh:


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## wacbzz (Sep 29, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> As for those Authorized Dealers, you might want to look on Eagletac's own site again. *None *of the original three U.S.-based Dealers I mentioned are carrying Eagletac models. Lighthound was the fourth Dealer on the original list of Authorized Dealers. Pacific Tactical Solutions was added later. The Three respected Dealers I mentioned, *still *don't carry Eagletac lights.
> 
> Just thought I should clarify that point.



I cannot get back to the original site that listed four US dealers so going back through that thread that you linked to, I count 4sevens, BatteryJunction, Lighthound, and Liotec as those that were listed as "Authorized Dealers". I get this from the posts in that thread(#6 [4sevens, BJ], #18 [Lighthound], and #30[Liotec]). 

You are correct in saying that BatteryJunction and Liotec.com do not carry the EagleTac lights. However, both Lighthound and 4sevens - through eagletac-store.com - _DO_ carry the line. When I got my P10A2 from the eagletac-store, _everything_ was return addressed as Fenix-store.com with a huge Fenix Store sticker as well.

If you were talking about some other vendors however, I am not sure who they would be...:thinking:

So have you ordered these great lights yet?? You can get in on the "ground floor" and find out for yourself about their "long-term durability."


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## Monocrom (Sep 29, 2008)

wacbzz said:


> So have you ordered these great lights yet?? You can get in on the "ground floor" and find out for yourself about their "long-term durability."


 
I had already edited my above post to show that 7777s carries Eaglteac lights, despite not being listed an an Authorized Dealer on the Eagletac site itself.

The original list is gone, but it did include Lighthound, 7777s, Battery Junction, and Liotec. All but Lighthound came forward in the other thread to report that they weren't Authorized Dealers, and (at the time) weren't happy to be listed as such. Those are the 3 vendors from the original list that I mentioned.

Actually, I do plan on getting a P10A. I don't have a high-ouput AA light in my collection. I had wanted to add the T10C2, but the bezel-up clips are useless. (Found that out from a CPFer who owns a P10C2). So it looks like only 1 Eagletac model for me.... I had really want to like Eagletac when I first heard of the company, I guess we'll see how the P10A works as an EDC light.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 29, 2008)

Well, I had no idea these lights were contentious. I guess I need to poke my head up outside the Reviews forum more often. :tinfoil:

Regardless of any business practice issues, the build quality on my sample is very high. The beam is particularly impressive. FYI EngrPaul, both my o-rings look completely normal - and I agree that the lanyard attachment points are pretty thin.

Given the discrepancy surrounding the low mode output on primaries, I've been playing with the light this evening, and much to my surprise have been able to obtain _*2 different levels on primaries on low!*_, as well as that mysterious extremely low output mode I mentioned earlier. :thinking:

I'm not able to predict which of these modes I stumble upon, but it seems to stay consistent for awhile and then is different next time I come back to it. Here's an example of a sequence of events I just experienced:

1. Load a fresh Duracell on low: ~50 output on my scale (like before)
2. Load a fresh Energizer on low: extremely low reading (<3 on my scale), doesn't change even if I switch to Hi
3. Replace with same Duracell from #1 - still extremely low reading on both Low and Hi (oh-oh!)
4. Replace with AW RCR on Hi - full brightness (what a relief!)
5. Replace with Energizer from #2 on low: ~30 on my output scale (aha, I'm thinking - it's the Duracells that are brighter)
6. Replace with Duracell from #1 on low: ~30 on my output scale (hmm, guess not - maybe its "fixed?") 
7. Replace with Energizer from #2 on low: ~50 on my output scale (sigh .. back to the beginning ...)

Anyone got any ideas as to what is going on? Seems like there is some sort of circuit anomaly that is picking up 2 different defined outputs levels on low on primaries (~50 or ~30), plus some unusual extremely low output that doesn't respond to the head twist. That last one is particular concerning, since the light won't reset to a normal state until I load a RCR in there.

I'm doing a runtime right now on a Duracell at the ~30 output value to compare ... but this is frankly not very useful if I can't predict what state its going to be in. :shakehead

I'll keep you posted ...


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## Monocrom (Sep 29, 2008)

selfbuilt said:


> I'll keep you posted ...


 
So you still sometimes lose high-mode? And the only way to get it back is to toss in an RCR123 cell?

Is it possible you got a defective light? I've seen one other review of this light, and that situation didn't seem to crop up.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 30, 2008)

Ok, I think I've figured out what is going on with the Lo mode on primaries (main post updated). 

Initially, I was getting inconsistent results - sometimes Lo mode was ~60% of max output, sometimes it was ~40% of max output. I was also getting a strange unexplained extremely low mode (<3%) a couple of times after switching primaries - something that was only cured by swapping in a RCR.

*After a thorough cleaning of the light with deoxit on all contact surfaces, I am now only getting the ~40% output level consistently.* Based on the RCR results and the reports of others, this seems to be the appropriate Low level:







*The "proper" low mode is identified as the 2nd run above - as you can see, I get the expected output and runtime (just under 8 hours).*

I am not sure where the ~60% output level was coming from, but I was able to reliably produce it half a dozen times at first. Note that I never got an intermediate value - it was either ~60% or ~40% each time I tried (except for the strange <3% mode that occurred twice). I'm just guessing here, but I wonder if the circuit doesn't have a few extra disabled modes that were somehow accidentally triggered by a contact problem (e.g. like the mysterious SOS mode on the Lumapower Incendio)? :thinking:

A second point is that I was commonly changing the battery by removing the head, since the tailcap is difficult to tighten fully with the protruding clip in the way. I'm wondering if that wasn't contributing to "confusing" the circuit somewhat when switching batteries (i.e. somewhat like the Novatac 120P - most of the time I can switch between RCR and primaries without problem, sometimes I need to do the battery mode reset once or twice to get it working properly). I am now switching the battery only at the tailcap, and have not experienced any more mysterious modes. 

I will let you know if it stays this way - but I'm curious is anyone else has experience these issues?


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## The Sun (Sep 30, 2008)

selfbuilt said:


> Well, I had no idea these lights were contentious. I guess I need to poke my head up outside the Reviews forum more often. :tinfoil:
> 
> Regardless of any business practice issues, the build quality on my sample is very high. The beam is particularly impressive. FYI EngrPaul, both my o-rings look completely normal - and I agree that the lanyard attachment points are pretty thin.
> 
> ...


 
i have had some problems with mine as well (T10C), it was solved with a good cleaning. i didn't have the mysterious modes i just had complete shutdown!!! remove batteries, then replace and it would work fine. the contact between the backside of the module, and the body was a bit greasy and dirty, i cleaned it up and it seams to be working fine, i won't be carrying it though until i know for sure. another stange event; i get a longer runtime on high (about an hour), and my "low" mode on RCR is brighter than on primaries, you are right with the "QC" comment. i hope it works out because i love the beam, and the build quality, shape, usefulness, etc. if my fix doesn't solve the problem i'll tear it apart and check the guts.


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## toby_pra (Oct 1, 2008)

very nice review!

thx very much...:twothumbs


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## gallonoffuel (Oct 1, 2008)

Agreed, wonderful review. 

My P10C has been at my buddy's house while he's doing his bathroom. He is not a flashaholic, but carries a light for work every day. He's been using my P10C exclusively since it's been there. 

My T10C has been clipped to my pocket since I got it 2 weeks ago. I love the little thing. The tint on my T10C is noticably green when hunting for white walls, and everyone notices that. However, using it outside is much easier on the eyes than my lights with blue or pure white tints. I'm color blind, so that might be a contributing factor.

The anodizing is wearing off in a number of spots on my T10C, but it happens to every light I carry. They all ride right next to my stainless-bodied Kershaw, and I wouldn't expect any light to hold up to that abuse. I love the bezel-down carry, but for today I tried inverting the clip. It does work, and yes the light spins a bit, but I'm not concerned about the finish at all. 

I guess my only wish would have been that the P10C and T10C used a compatible head so you could Lego this things. The slimmer P10C head with the body of the T10C (for cigar-style hold) would have really made my day. I don't know why all manufacturers don't do this.


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## selfbuilt (Oct 1, 2008)

gallonoffuel said:


> I guess my only wish would have been that the P10C and T10C used a compatible head so you could Lego this things. The slimmer P10C head with the body of the T10C (for cigar-style hold) would have really made my day. I don't know why all manufacturers don't do this.


Thanks for the input ... I was wondering if the heads were interchangeable. A pity they are not, but its true few manufacturers offer this feature. Fewer still offer the body/head portions for sale separately (Fenix, and ITP come to mind, and of course Surefire).


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## gallonoffuel (Oct 1, 2008)

selfbuilt said:


> Thanks for the input ... I was wondering if the heads were interchangeable. A pity they are not, but its true few manufacturers offer this feature. Fewer still offer the body/head portions for sale separately (Fenix, and ITP come to mind, and of course Surefire).



Even the tailcaps are different. The P10C tailcap comes off as a one-piece assembly, and so does the head, leaving the typical tube as you have shown. The T10C has a really thin fastening portion, I'd call it a bezel ring for lack of a better term, that comes off, then the switch and boot fall out from the body. The body is oddly shaped. None of the parts are in any way interchangeable. 

This is best illustrated here:







Notice the scalloped retaining ring on the T10C. That comes off, and the switch falls out of the body. The P10C is build more like the Nuwai Q3.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Oct 2, 2008)

Post some outdoor beamshots please!!


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## smflorkey (Oct 3, 2008)

gallonoffuel, since you have both a P10C and a T10C, how do they compare? 

Are the beams similar? 

The lanyard attachment looks more substantial on the T10C in your picture (thanks for the nice comparison shot). EngrPaul pointed out that the lanyard holes on the P10C tail are pretty thin. Is the T10C significantly better?


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## f22shift (Oct 3, 2008)

anyone attempt to take the head apart?


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## bigfish5 (Oct 5, 2008)

*first thoughts on eagletac t10c2*

I recieved my eagletac t10c2 today, my first thought is that is smaller than i was thinking it would be. Take everything i say with a grain of salt because i am new to this flashlight thing. The light is also lighter than i would have thought, even with the batteries in it , it is light. I can drop it in my pockent no problem, It leaves a bigger signature than my d10 "only a couple of weeks old itself" but it is not to uncomfortable. The light is very bright, i do not have alot of lights to compare it to , but it is definitely bright. 

The threads are super smooth, and the clicky button works very well, you can also use it as a momentary on, just apply light pressure on the button. 

If i had to give you any negatives i would complain about the clip, it is close to useless for me. You cannot attatch it to anything without using both hands. I will probably take it off. The light does have a slight green tint to it, it makes it very cold, especially when next to my d10 golden dragon, but you will only notice this when it is against another light on a white wall. The u.i. could not be any easier, with just hi and medium. The beam set at the 60 lumen is very useful, for normal flashlight stuff i think its just about where you would want it. I am so far pretty happy with my purchase.


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## Monocrom (Oct 5, 2008)

After some consideration, I've decided to take a chance on the P10A model. I love clip-carried lights. Normally not a fan of single-cell lights, but I keep hearing that the clips on the longer Eagletac models are useless. (For me, that's a deal-breaker). Not enough material protrudes above the clip on the P10C or T10C models to grab them quickly from a pocket, if needed. So P10A was the remaining choice. I really hope Eagletac improves the clip (and its placement) on their future 2-cell and 18650 models. 

I'll post my thoughts on the P10A after I get a chance to put it through its paces, after it arrives from lighthound.


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## cheetokhan (Oct 10, 2008)

I asked EagleTac if they would be selling a two-way clip for the T10L like the one on the P10C and T10C. They said they will be releasing two-way pocket clips for their larger lights in about 2 weeks and they will be available as accessories through EagleTac vendors.


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## Monocrom (Oct 12, 2008)

cheetokhan said:


> I asked EagleTac if they would be selling a two-way clip for the T10L like the one on the P10C and T10C. They said they will be releasing two-way pocket clips for their larger lights in about 2 weeks and they will be available as accessories through EagleTac vendors.


 
I have noticed that the clip on my P10A is significantly thicker in profile than the one on the SF E1B that I recently examined at a B&M shop. Perhaps Eagletac's clips for their single-cell models are thicker than the ones for their two-cell and 18650 models? 

Only had my Eagletac P10A for a couple of days. I like how it fills my hand. Very comfortable to carry. I've got an Energizer lithium AA cell in mine, and it is fantastic; in terms of output. Like many new lights I buy, I'm using this one as my work-light. It might just have the most comfortable recessed tailcap switch I have ever used. Stands up well on a flat surface. 

The clip is a big improvement over what's on the SF E1B. Yes, Eagletac copied the clip; but they made it better. As mentioned before, it's thicker in profile. This thickness is probably why the P10A can actually be carried either bezel-up or down. Not too much of the light is below the pocket seam, when carried bezel-up. If the head snags on something, the light could fall out. But it's still far better than what you get with an E1B carried bezel-up. (As in, the head leans away from the pocket; nearly falling out on it's own). With the P10A, the reversable pocket clip is _actually _reversable.


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## cheetokhan (Oct 12, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> Perhaps Eagletac's clips for their single-cell models are thicker than the ones for their two-cell and 18650 models?



I have a T10C and a new T10L and the clips are the same thickness and stiffness. The T10L is just a single direction clip and the T10C is a bi-directional clip.


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## gallonoffuel (Oct 14, 2008)

smflorkey said:


> gallonoffuel, since you have both a P10C and a T10C, how do they compare?
> 
> Are the beams similar?
> 
> The lanyard attachment looks more substantial on the T10C in your picture (thanks for the nice comparison shot). EngrPaul pointed out that the lanyard holes on the P10C tail are pretty thin. Is the T10C significantly better?




A little delayed on the reply here, but the answer is definite 'sort of' on both of your questions. 

The T10C and P10C beam profiles are pretty much identical, and typical of a modern CREE with a deep LOP reflector. As I've said in earlier posts, my T10C is just noticable greener in tint.

The landyard hole in the T10C has MILDLY more material around it. However, for both lights I seriously doubt you'd ever be able to break off or otherwise destroy the existing lanyard holes. The lanyard should break away LONG before the hole does.


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## Federal LG (Oct 15, 2008)

Hey guys, post some outdoor beamshots, please!

I have a major doubt: I don´t know if I pick a Nitecore Extreme or EagleTac T10C.

*Do you guys think that Q5 LED can die earlier in the EagleTac, cause they push it to it´s limit ?*

I want the same light, in the same conditions, 3 years from now...

(I´m totally noob about LED endurance and life)


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## gallonoffuel (Oct 15, 2008)

I have both a Nitecore Extreme and a T10C. I don't carry the Nitecore anymore.

Don't get me wrong, the NEI is a good light, but the interface left me desiring something fool proof for my everyday activities. The NEI head has been pillaged and is sitting on a VitalGear FB2 body with a 17670, and resides in my camping gear.

The T10C rides in my pocket every day now.

As for how they perform outside, the beams are nearly identical. T10C has a TINY bit more throw because of the larger reflector. Both are ridiculously bright for most peoples needs.


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## Federal LG (Oct 15, 2008)

Cool!

But Fuel... do you think the Q5 LED of the EagleTac will have the same durability (time life) of Nitecore Extreme LED ?

I mean... the fact that EagleTac pushes it´s LEDs to the limit does reduce it´s life ?

Thanks! :thumbsup:


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## gallonoffuel (Oct 16, 2008)

EagleTac pushing their LEDs to the limit is questionable, but even if the high mode of these things is on the hairy edge of being overdriven, how often do you use the light on high? Personally, that's very rare. And even if you assume the lifespan of an LED is 25,000 hours (I don't know if this is reasonable), and driving it at max amperage reduces it by 80% to 5000 hours, thats 208 days of running the light straight. I use mine for a max of 1 hour a day when you add it all up. Thats 13 years of trouble-free illumination.


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## 276 (Oct 17, 2008)

I use my lights on high even less than that more like a burst or i would say 10 min or more. Most of my lights on plenty bright on med so i usually use that kind setting.


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## cheetokhan (Oct 17, 2008)

gallonoffuel said:


> how often do you use the light on high?



Pretty much always on my EagleTac T10C and T10L. I use those lights when I need lots of light, so they stay on high.
For times when I need low light, I use my Jet II IBS or Nitecore EX10GD on low.


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## A96Honda (Nov 3, 2008)

I wish the "low" setting would have a higher output on the T10C. I feel something rated the low 100s would be much better.:candle: Very tempted to order 1 still. For about $60, hard to beat.

PS, these strange anamolies have been confirmed or fixed yet?


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## selfbuilt (Nov 3, 2008)

A96Honda said:


> PS, these strange anamolies have been confirmed or fixed yet?


I haven't seen any further evidence of them, but then again I haven't switched batteries since testing was completed. This light has only received light duty since the review, since I always have so many others to test.


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## selfbuilt (Jan 21, 2009)

Just an update:

I've since picked up the P10A2 and P10A (P10A2 included in my 2AA round-up review, and P10A will be in the next iteration of my 1AA round-up coming soon ). Both lights have equivalent build to the P10C.

Several users have reported that removing the clip can scratch the anodizing in the clip ring area. I have found that a little teflon oil lube in the area first can reduce this risk - I've tried it on all of mine, and the clips came off and on without problem.


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