# ArmyTek Barracuda (XM-L2 U3, 2x18650/4xCR123A) Thrower Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES+



## selfbuilt (Jun 18, 2013)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *















ArmyTek has sent me the latest version of their high-output thrower light, the Barracuda (XM-L2 U3, in the "Limited Edition"). I don't usually go in for cutesy names, but this one as a distinctive ring to it. 

Let's see how that extra "oomph" of the XM-L2 U3 helps it, compared to other 2x18650, 4xCR123A throwers. 

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


Limited Edition with Cree XM-L2 U3 LED
Excellent throw for more than 540 meters
Maximal light output 1450 LED lumen
CONSTANT brightness in all modes
50 meters waterproof
Record runtimes in all modes
Powered by two 18650 Li-Ion or four CR123A batteries
Volrage range 5-17V
The reflector is modeled and calculated in computer software for the design of optical systems that enables to produce a flawless light beam for a distance more than 520 meters. 
Ultra-transparent and tempered glass with anti-reflective and lens coating normally used in photo equipment only. The transparency of the glass is 98-99%.
FLAT runtime technology.
Advanced electronic protection from incorrect battery installation, without reducing the efficiency of the driver.
Excellent runtimes for all modes due to high efficient electronics.
The ability to use batteries with a flat contact. Protection from switching on accidentally (special turn of the tailcap).
The flashlight has a strong, difficult to break body, which iincludes element design specifically to prevent the flashlight from rolling.
Impact-resistant bezels from both sides. In the Gold and Black version the steel bezels are also covered by titanium coating with a hardness of 2000-3000HV.
 The electronic driver is placed in a special aluminum capsule and has been completely covered with durable compound. This actually protects it from both the environment and from mechanical damage.
Body cover: matte, anodized. Hardness: 350-400HV. Resistant to scratches and impacts.
Body material: aviation-grade aluminum T6061-T6.
Water resistance standard: IPX-8 (the highest)
An О-ring has been used to increase glass sealing, and well as an extra L-ring of a specific shape.
All threads, rubber parts and other parts of the flashlight that experience friction or contact with water are lubricated with a special dense grease NyoGel 760G.
Included: Plastic Box, Holster, Rubber Button, 2 spare O-rings 
MSRP: ~$150














The Barracuda comes in a presentation-style plastic carrying case, in the trademark ArmyTek yellow (actually, more of an orangey-yellow). Inside everything is firmly secured in cut-out foam. You will find the light, manual, spare o-rings and tailcap boot cover, and belt holster. Note the box is just wide enough for the light - there is no padding in front or behind of the light.

Note that like all ArmyTek lights, there are several bezel and emitter choices available for this model. The bundled options are detailed on a sticker on the back of the package. One interesting feature – they even give you a date of manufacture (05/2013 in my case above).













From left to right: AW Protected 18650; ArmyTek Barracuda; Olight M3X; Crelant 7G5CS; Klarus XT-30; Eagletac GX25L2.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*ArmyTek Barracuda*: Weight 400.8g, Length 264mm, Width (bezel): 64.0mm 
*Crelant 7G5CS*: Weight: 334.5g, Length: 247mm Width (bezel): 64.0mm
*Eagletac GX25L2 Turbo*: Weight: 320.7g (with battery pack: 412.5g), Length: 251mm, Width (bezel): 62.0mm
*Eagletac SX25L2 Turbo*: Weight: 343.4g (with battery pack: 534.3g), Length: 255mm, Width (bezel): 62.0mm
*Klarus XT30*: Weight: 283.1g, Length: 247mm, Width (bezel): 58.0mm
*Niwalker 750N1*: Weight: 408.0g, Length: 269mm, Width (bezel): 58.6mm
*Olight M3X* with Extender: Weight 277.8g, Length 244mm, Width (bezel): 62.3mm 
*Sunwayman T40CS*: Weight: 296.7g, Length 227, Width (bezel): 63.5mm
*Surefire UB3T*: Weight: 311.1g, Length 229mm, Width (bezel): 63.1 mm
*Thrunite Catapult V3*: Weight: 434.8g, Length: 254mm, Width (bezel) 58.0mm, Width (tailcap) 35.1mm.

The first observation above is that the Barracuda is heavier than most lights in this class (although not quite as heavy as the Thrunite Catapult). It is also slightly longer than most models.






















As always with ArmyTek, build quality is very high – and the light has a very robust/substantial feel.

The ArmyTek finish is fairly unique - the body has a very thick matte finish anodizing that feels almost molded or rubberized somehow. oo: According to ArmyTek, this coating is much thicker (with harder anodizing) than most lights. Although the light lacks knurling, grip is actually quite decent – much better than you would expect, thanks to the unique finish. And there are some ridge detail elements to help further with grip. 

Note the grippier finish may show dirt, hand oil, etc, more easily than traditional glossy knurling. There are also no anti-roll features – the light can roll easily on its side.

Lettering is very bright and clear, and exceptionally legible. In additional to model information on the body tube and bezel, the voltage range and supported cells are printed right on the light.

Screw threads are thick square-cut (trapezoidal), and anodized at the tail region of the battery tube and in the tailcap (for lock-out). :thumbsup:

The tailcap switch is a forward clicky, with good feel. The spring is thicker and longer than typical on these sorts of lights, with a flat connector piece (so as not to scratch your batteries). The Barracuda cannot tailstand

Note the spring in the head, so high capacity flat-top batteries can be used. Another nice touch here – the head spring is flattened down in the middle, so it again won't scratch your cells. All my 18650 cells fit – there is quite a generous amount of cell length space.














The smooth reflector is extremely deep on the ArmyTek Barracuda – deeper than most lights of this class. I would expect excellent throw, but at the expense of spillbeam width. XM-L2 emitter was perfectly centered, with some sort of surrounding mask.

There is a noticeable anti-glare coating on the lens, but this has a different tint to it than most others I've seen (i.e., more green, as you will find on some camera lens and personal glasses). Most flashlight lens anti-glare coatings tend to have a purple fringe. ArmyTek informs me that this is a higher grade anti-glare than commonly used.

There is a black stainless steel bezel ring on my sample (flat), but I believe other bezel styles are available.

*User Interface*

User interface of the Barracuda is very straight-forward. Turn the light on/off by the tailcap forward clicky switch (press for momentary, click for locked-on).

You choose output mode by the position of the head – tight for Max, loose for the user-controlled level. 

With the head loosened, there are three levels set by soft-pressing or clicking off/on rapidly: Lo > Med > Hi, in repeating loop. Note that Hi a slightly lower output than Max.

There is no permanent mode memory in the head-loosened state - after being off for a few seconds, the light reverts to Lo. However, if you switch from head loose/tight, it remembers the head-loose state (as long as you don't turn it off).

And that's it – no blinky modes. 

*Video*: 

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

*PWM/Strobe*

As always, there is no sign of PWM at any output level – the Barracuda is current-controlled at all levels.  

And again, no blinky modes.

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on 2x AW protected 18650 batteries. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 





























































As expected, the Barracuda has outstanding throw – and a much more greatly restricted spillbeam compared to most of the competition. It all really comes down to the reflector design – you can get throw a number of ways with a large reflector.

For outdoor beamshots, these are all done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground). 

FYI, any "streaks" you see across the images are bug-trails. Flying insects are often attracted to the bright lights, and their flight trails get captured as swirly streaks due to the long exposure time. 










As you can see, the Barracuda does indeed have a much narrower spillbeam in real life. Throw is top-of-class for 2x18650 family at the moment, although the M3X XM-L2 is pretty close. Again, ignore any tint differences above – they are mainly due to the automatic white balance setting on the camera.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).






The Barracuda is currently the best throwing 2x18650 reflectored light in my collection at the moment.  It is also one of the brightest.

On that front, please be aware that a number of high-output lights appear to be consistently under-reported somewhat in my estimated lumen scale. As always, I recommend you use my estimated lumens as a _relative_ guide to comparing lights in my collection, not as an absolute accuracy indicator. But if it helps, here are my estimated lumens at all levels:






The Barracuda has a good range of output levels available.

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*



















The closest Max output and throw comparable to the Barracuda is the Olight M3X XM-L2 (T6 bin). The extra potential of the U3 bin used here translates basically into extended runtime on Max – otherwise, the output/runtime curves looks pretty similar. 

That said, ArmyTek is clearly using a very efficient current-controlled driver – the runtimes at all levels are very impressive for this class. :thumbsup: It also has a reasonable spacing of levels.

*Potential Issues*

Like the Olight M3X, the Barracuda is heavily driven on Max, with no automatic step-down feature. As such, I recommend you do not run the light on Max for extended periods of time on primary CR123As. 

There is no bundled diffuser with the Barracuda, and it throws a relatively narrower beam than most lights of this class.

There are no anti-roll features for the light, and no place to thread a lanyard. The light cannot tailstand either.

*Preliminary Observations*

And we have a new champion – the ArmyTek Barracuda takes the crown for the furthest throwing reflector-based 2x18650 light in my collection at the moment. :wave:

It is an outstanding showing, taking us well into the range of some aspherics I've seen in this size. This is about as far my original 6x18650 Olight SR90 was able to throw. oo:

More than that, I'm happy to report that ArmyTek is using an excellent current-controlled circuit. Runtimes are impressively flat-regulated, at all levels. Personally, I would like to see a timed step-down feature for Max, but I imagine many here will be happy with this regulation pattern. And output/runtime efficiency is top-of-class – the Barracuda has some impressive runtimes, at all levels (note my testing is done on lower capacity 18650s). :thumbsup: 

The build of the Barracuda is very robust. This is a substantial light, and is clearly meant to inspire confidence in its long-term survivability and use. I personally quite like the "grippy" texture of the thick matte ArmyTek anodizing – I've seen plenty of lights with mild knurling that had much poorer grip. Careful care and attention to detail is also evident throughout the light (e.g., I particularly like the robust head and tail springs, flattened or covered to prevent any possible scratching). Although it is odd that no wrist lanyard option is available.

If you are looking for massive throw, I don't think the Barracuda will disappoint.  And as with all the high-output throwers, as long as you use appropriate common-sense about battery configurations on Max, I think you will find this light will meet all your throw cravings. 

----

Barracuda was provided by ArmyTek for this review.


----------



## kj2 (Jun 18, 2013)

Thanks for the review 
Armytek should make that yellow box just a bit wider, so they can put some padding against the head and tail. 
I like those long threads on the Armytek lights


----------



## MichaelW (Jun 18, 2013)

Is there another way to ballpark the approximate angle of the reflector? besides holding a protractor aligned where the LED sits, and measuring up to the maximum extent of the reflector. 

A little hard to perform with small lights, but my trusty Fenix P3D rb100 is about 45 degrees at the reflector's edge, and 50 at the bezel. It would be easier with a complete disassembly of the head...

Is it feasible to construct a light that gets to 75 degrees? or a practicable limit about 60?


----------



## AngryFish (Jun 18, 2013)

Is there any place that currently has the U3 in stock?


----------



## selfbuilt (Jun 18, 2013)

kj2 said:


> Armytek should make that yellow box just a bit wider, so they can put some padding against the head and tail.
> I like those long threads on the Armytek lights


Yes, I agree - on both fronts. 



MichaelW said:


> Is there another way to ballpark the approximate angle of the reflector? besides holding a protractor aligned where the LED sits, and measuring up to the maximum extent of the reflector.


I don't know an easy way to figure out the angle, but as you can tell from the beamshots, the spill is comparatively narrowed on the Barracuda. It is certainly a "steeper" angle than other lights in this class.



AngryFish said:


> Is there any place that currently has the U3 in stock?


Have you tried the ArmyTek website?


----------



## AngryFish (Jun 18, 2013)

Yes. that is the first place I looked but apparently they are sold out of the u3 bin version.


great review by the way. very thorough as usual.


----------



## Eagle 1 (Jun 18, 2013)

thanks for the in-depth and great review as always! these reviews of yours on the newest and brightest always make my bank account weep a little bit, but alas they are tears of such sweet sorrow. gotta add this to my pack light rotation!


----------



## whatswrongwithmee (Jun 21, 2013)

This light is pure awesomeness and so are you selfbuilt, my "go to" for flashlight reviews. Only problem is nowhere to buy one right now.


----------



## selfbuilt (Jun 21, 2013)

Just revised the UI section, based on a comment from subwoofer.

To clarify, there is no permanent mode memory in the head-loosened state - after being off for a few seconds, the light reverts to Lo. However, if you switch from head loose/tight, it remembers the head-loose state (as long as you don't turn it off). :wave:


----------



## tobrien (Jun 22, 2013)

dang I want one!

so this XM-L2 U3 basically matches the Crelant _with a collimator??_ that's incredible engineering imo.

so for $10 less on Armytek's site, they offer the XM-L2 U*2* Barracuda. I'm assuming that's a no-brainer on which to get then huh?

thanks again for the spectacular review, as usual Selfbuilt.


----------



## whatswrongwithmee (Jun 22, 2013)

I noticed on Armytek's website that the light is limited edition? Are they going to make more for me to buy?


----------



## selfbuilt (Jun 22, 2013)

tobrien said:


> so for $10 less on Armytek's site, they offer the XM-L2 U*2* Barracuda. I'm assuming that's a no-brainer on which to get then huh?





whatswrongwithmee said:


> I noticed on Armytek's website that the light is limited edition? Are they going to make more for me to buy?


I presume it comes down to the availability of U3 bin emitters ... I don't imagine they are available is large quantities yet.

But in any case, I wouldn't worry about getting the U2 instead - performance would be expected to be within 1-7% of each other. You won't be able to see that kind of difference. I personally would never upgrade anything for less than 2 (or more) output bin steps up, and would be fine with purchasing down a bin.


----------



## MBentz (Aug 5, 2013)

Does anyone know if there is a brightness difference between two 18650s and four RCR123/IMR 18350s?


----------



## selfbuilt (Aug 5, 2013)

MBentz said:


> Does anyone know if there is a brightness difference between two 18650s and four RCR123/IMR 18350s?


Given that 4xCR123A was no brighter than 2x18650, I suspect that the circuit is consistently regulated for all supported battery sources. Note however that the specs do not mention explicit support for 4xRCR (although the given voltage range would apparently support it). I recommend you check with ArmyTek before trying that configuration.


----------



## MBentz (Aug 5, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Given that 4xCR123A was no brighter than 2x18650, I suspect that the circuit is consistently regulated for all supported battery sources. Note however that the specs do not mention explicit support for 4xRCR (although the given voltage range would apparently support it). I recommend you check with ArmyTek before trying that configuration.



I just snagged an older XM-L model I intend to let vinh work his magic on, and the instructions state four RCR are good to go.


----------



## Wiggle (Aug 9, 2013)

I was looking at your beamshots of the Barracuda versus the Predator 2.5. Obviously these are different lights with differents roles (a 2 x 18650 high-output thrower versus a 1 x 18650 compact thrower) but are my eyes correct in saying that they actually have nearly the same beam pattern? They look very similar (except obviously the Barracuda having 2-2.5 times the output).


----------



## whatswrongwithmee (Aug 18, 2013)

Are there any filters/diffusers that fit this light?


----------



## tobrien (Aug 18, 2013)

whatswrongwithmee said:


> Are there any filters/diffusers that fit this light?



i don't believe so, but in CPFMP quite a few guys sell diffuser film you could put on the lens and remove pretty easy when needed


----------



## degarb (Sep 7, 2013)

8-10 hour, the main useful setting for work, is missing.


----------



## phantom23 (Sep 10, 2013)

>


Eagletac ANSI lumens in Armytek flashlight?


----------



## selfbuilt (Sep 11, 2013)

phantom23 said:


> Eagletac ANSI lumens in Armytek flashlight?


Whoops, I'll fix that, thanks.


----------



## kj2 (Nov 22, 2013)

Is it better to use unprotected batteries with the Barracuda? Just like it is with the Predator.


----------



## selfbuilt (Nov 23, 2013)

kj2 said:


> Is it better to use unprotected batteries with the Barracuda? Just like it is with the Predator.


No, you should always use protected cells in multi-cell lights. There is no advance warning that I am aware of (for when the batteries are over-discharged).


----------



## kj2 (Nov 23, 2013)

Thanks


----------



## Jash (Nov 30, 2013)

I'm going of purchase this light. I just cannot decide on cool white or neutral/warm white. My TK41 has a perfectly white cool white, and I'd be happy if the Barracuda was the the same, but you know the tint lottery.


----------



## kj2 (Nov 30, 2013)

My Barracuda is all white. Same as my Predator Pro. AFAIK Armytek does a good job, picking good leds.


----------



## Jash (Nov 30, 2013)

Thanks kj2, I think cool white it is then. If it's not perfect I can always send it to Vinh for some of his magic.


----------



## Phaserburn (Mar 23, 2014)

With such a broad input voltage range to accommodate 4xRCRs, wouldn't it be great to have an additional 18650 extender available? It would make the light longer, but no one was pocketing this baby to begin with.


----------



## Swedpat (Mar 23, 2014)

Phaserburn said:


> With such a broad input voltage range to accommodate 4xRCRs, wouldn't it be great to have an additional 18650 extender available? It would make the light longer, but no one was pocketing this baby to begin with.



I agree! Also Predator and Viking could use an extender for use with 2x18650s.


----------



## cland72 (Jul 30, 2014)

SB, thanks for the review. I just ordered a Barracuda (the U2 version, I can't find U3 anywhere) from Going Gear, in part based on your review here - primarily the beamshots. This will be my first official "thrower", and I think I will be pleased.

Does anyone have any personal experience with regards to the longevity/durability/reliability of this light? I can't find many long term owners that have posted anything (positive or negative).


----------



## cland72 (Aug 1, 2014)

Any owners at all that care to chime in with complaints and/or compliments about this light?


----------



## kj2 (Aug 1, 2014)

cland72 said:


> Any owners at all that care to chime in with complaints and/or compliments about this light?


I've nothing to complain on this light. Quality feeling, thick body, very nice reflector finish and throw like hell 
UI is simple, although, sometimes I've to check a few times how the UI was/is. But am not using this light daily/weekly, so that causes that problem 
Beam is nothing but white


----------



## cland72 (Aug 1, 2014)

kj2 said:


> I've nothing to complain on this light. Quality feeling, thick body, very nice reflector finish and throw like hell
> UI is simple, although, sometimes I've to check a few times how the UI was/is. But am not using this light daily/weekly, so that causes that problem
> Beam is nothing but white



Excellent, thanks! I also did some deeper diving into the search results here on CPF with keyword "barracuda", and while I didn't see much more than just positive comments from reviewers and owners at the time of purchase, I guess that's a good thing. I would assume that if this light had underlying, long term issues, we would've seen them surface by now.

Looking forward to getting it - Going Gear has them on backorder so I'm just waiting for them to ship!


----------



## Swedpat (Aug 1, 2014)

cland72 said:


> SB, thanks for the review. I just ordered a Barracuda (the U2 version, I can't find U3 anywhere) from Going Gear, in part based on your review here - primarily the beamshots. This will be my first official "thrower", and I think I will be pleased.
> 
> Does anyone have any personal experience with regards to the longevity/durability/reliability of this light? I can't find many long term owners that have posted anything (positive or negative).





cland72 said:


> Excellent, thanks! I also did some deeper diving into the search results here on CPF with keyword "barracuda", and while I didn't see much more than just positive comments from reviewers and owners at the time of purchase, I guess that's a good thing. I would assume that if this light had underlying, long term issues, we would've seen them surface by now.
> 
> Looking forward to getting it - Going Gear has them on backorder so I'm just waiting for them to ship!




Did you order cool or white tint? I Really like my Barracuda warm and the quality is excellent. Even if it will be outthrowed by Thrunite TN32 neutral the tint of the warm Barracuda is superior, really awesome.


----------



## cland72 (Aug 1, 2014)

Swedpat said:


> Did you order cool or white tint? I Really like my Barracuda warm and the quality is excellent. Even if it will be outthrowed by Thrunite TN32 neutral the tint of the warm Barracuda is superior, really awesome.



I ordered the cool tint version (U2, I believe). I figured hey, if I want something that is balls out bright, why not get the brightest one they make? :devil:


----------



## Swedpat (Aug 1, 2014)

cland72 said:


> I ordered the cool tint version (U2, I believe). I figured hey, if I want something that is balls out bright, why not get the brightest one they make? :devil:



Even if I prefer neutral/warm tint it's no doubt I had been satisfisfied with the cool tint. The spill is very narrow, the narrowest of all lights I have tried. And that is good for a thrower in my opinion. Especially with a very bright spill, which otherwise will blind at the foreground. Barracuda is a pure thrower and for shining up a large area there are other lights. I am looking forward to know your opinion of it!


----------



## Ninox_ (Aug 12, 2014)

*Barracuda 50m water resistant? Diving?*

Given that this light is specified as water resistant to 50 metres, I was wondering if anyone had tried using it as a dive light?
The beam profile would be quite suitable and the runtimes are certainly adequate for many diving applications.

Any thoughts?


----------



## selfbuilt (Aug 12, 2014)

*Re: Barracuda 50m water resistant? Diving?*



Ninox_ said:


> Given that this light is specified as water resistant to 50 metres, I was wondering if anyone had tried using it as a dive light?
> The beam profile would be quite suitable and the runtimes are certainly adequate for many diving applications.


Hmmm, 50m seems unusually high for a light that is not specifically dive-rated in any of its promotional material. I'm wondering if that is not an error on the spec chart online, since there is no mention of it on the product description.

As usual, the descriptions of this light claim IPX8 (or IP68) with no mention of depth or duration for water immersion (both of which are required by the standard to be specified by the manufacturer). As such, I would normally not assume anything greater than the IPX7 standard of 1m and 30 mins immersion (although ANSI FL-1 "submersible", which is based on IPX8, requires 4 hours immersion at the manufacturer specified depth). Since the "50m" number only shows up on the spec chart online, I would check with ArmyTek for confirmation.

All that said, I expect the Barracuda would do better than most underwater, given its thick build. But - and this is the big BUT - the IPX8 standard doesn't require the light to used in those tests. In fact, the more stringent ANSI FL-1 waterproof and submersible standards specify the light is *off* in all such testing. So even if IPX8 to 50m were true (which I doubt), all that means is that the inactivated light could survive the pressure - not that it can actually be used. Clickly switches and head twists are notorious for causing waterproof failures.


----------



## Ninox_ (Aug 14, 2014)

*Re: Barracuda 50m water resistant? Diving?*

I decided to ask ArmyTek about the diving capability of their lights that they rate to 50m (which is all of their tactical and search and rescue range). 
Sandra has just replied to me and hopefully doesn't mind me reproducing it here:
_"All our tactical flashlights can be used 50 meters underwater. As for diving, we recommend to purchase Armytek Barracuda. 
It can be used 50 underwater 2 hours roughly.
As for salt water, Armytek Barracuda withstand salt water well.

As for this distance, you can use this light in the following way: to turn it on on the surface and only then use it at the depth 50 meters.
Due to the pressure you can not operate this light at such depth."
_
I guess the switch becomes inoperable with pressure which would be a good reason not to advertise it as a dive light.




Many divers only use their lights in this way in any case.


----------



## TEEJ (Aug 14, 2014)

*Re: Barracuda 50m water resistant? Diving?*



Ninox_ said:


> I decided to ask ArmyTek about the diving capability of their lights that they rate to 50m (which is all of their tactical and search and rescue range).
> Sandra has just replied to me and hopefully doesn't mind me reproducing it here:
> _"All our tactical flashlights can be used 50 meters underwater. As for diving, we recommend to purchase Armytek Barracuda.
> It can be used 50 underwater 2 hours roughly.
> ...



Yeah, its a turn it on and then roll back into the water with it sort of light.

At least they didn't say its a dive light good for 50 meters as long as its left OFF.


----------



## selfbuilt (Aug 14, 2014)

*Re: Barracuda 50m water resistant? Diving?*



Ninox_ said:


> I guess the switch becomes inoperable with pressure which would be a good reason not to advertise it as a dive light.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for confirming with Armytek. Good to know that they say it can work at depths of up to 50m (so long as you don't try to change modes or the activation state).


----------



## cland72 (Aug 27, 2014)

*Re: Barracuda 50m water resistant? Diving?*

I've had the XML2 cool version for about two weeks now, and I'm happy with it so far. It has seen limited usage so far, but I'll try to report back in a few months and give my long term thoughts.

No issues at all, at this point, with regards to operation or build quality. If it doesn't give me any issues over the next 12 months or so, you can consider me a happy camper. The beam of light this thing puts out is ridiculous.


----------



## kuna (Aug 28, 2014)

I'm looking at this light and the best deal I can find is $132 with panasonic batteries included, but it's a T6 bin, not a U2. Should I get it or is the difference in brightness(up to 7%) noticeable?

Edit: "Like the Olight M3X, the Barracuda is heavily driven on Max, with no automatic step-down feature. As such, I recommend you do not run the light on Max for extended periods of time on primary CR123As."

What exactly does this mean? Are you saying that if I have the light on max with 2x 18650s I can potentially damage the light? I hope not because that's not a sign of good quality.


----------



## cland72 (Aug 28, 2014)

Based on some posts I've seen, there is not a visual difference in brightness between the T6 and U2, assuming they are both XML2. I'd say go for it.

As for the comment regarding batteries, it is saying it's probably not good for CR123 primaries to run them on max mode for a long duration. However, 2x18650 will handle max mode all day long like a champ.


----------



## selfbuilt (Aug 28, 2014)

kuna said:


> What exactly does this mean? Are you saying that if I have the light on max with 2x 18650s I can potentially damage the light? I hope not because that's not a sign of good quality.





cland72 said:


> As for the comment regarding batteries, it is saying it's probably not good for CR123 primaries to run them on max mode for a long duration. However, 2x18650 will handle max mode all day long like a champ.


That is correct. Due to resistance difference, 4xCR123A will get much hotter than 2x18650 when heavily driven. You run the risk of triggering the PTC safety feature of primary CR123As if you run them at the max level in the lights mentioned (for extended periods on max, that is).


----------



## kuna (Aug 28, 2014)

Thanks guys. That is what I kinda figured, and it shouldn't be a problem because I plan to use two Panasonic 18650s. What is the current draw of the Barracuda at max power and can two standard 18650s safely supply 3.5A continuous or should I go for the IMRs?


----------



## selfbuilt (Aug 28, 2014)

kuna said:


> Thanks guys. That is what I kinda figured, and it shouldn't be a problem because I plan to use two Panasonic 18650s. What is the current draw of the Barracuda at max power and can two standard 18650s safely supply 3.5A continuous or should I go for the IMRs?


Based on the runtimes, you are fine to stick with standard protected ICR cells. IMR are not required.


----------



## kuna (Aug 28, 2014)

cland72 said:


> Based on some posts I've seen, there is not a visual difference in brightness between the T6 and U2, assuming they are both XML2. I'd say go for it.



Would you say this light is bright or should I go for the HID? How solid is the beam?



selfbuilt said:


> Based on the runtimes, you are fine to stick with standard protected ICR cells. IMR are not required.



How big of a difference in brightness would you think there would be with a T6 vs U3? Would you recommend this over the 85W Chinese HIDs? Not sure if you have experience with them, because I didn't see one in your impressive list of reviews


----------



## selfbuilt (Aug 29, 2014)

kuna said:


> How big of a difference in brightness would you think there would be with a T6 vs U3? Would you recommend this over the 85W Chinese HIDs? Not sure if you have experience with them, because I didn't see one in your impressive list of reviews


Personally, I wouldn't worry about a 1-2 output bin difference - practically, you could never see the difference. Overall build, user interface and beam profile are what really matter when selecting a light.

Can't comment on those HIDs ... my expertise is definitely within LED lights. A general comment I would make is that the beam profile of HIDs are rarely as clean (for artifacts and especially for tint variation), and you are typically limited to max only. Not to mention heavier, etc. But for max throw, they may have advantages - I would see if you could get reliable beam distance measures from an independent source.


----------



## cland72 (Aug 29, 2014)

kuna said:


> Would you say this light is bright or should I go for the HID? How solid is the beam?



They are different animals. The HID will certainly throw better, but will be more fragile, take time to warm up from turn on, and will likely have shorter runtimes.



kuna said:


> How big of a difference in brightness would you think there would be with a T6 vs U3? Would you recommend this over the 85W Chinese HIDs? Not sure if you have experience with them, because I didn't see one in your impressive list of reviews



There may be a 7% difference between the bins, but it will be trivial since it isn't detectable by the human eye. 
If you need a thrower, I would opt for a LED rather than a chinese made HID. If you wanted a Surefire Hellfighter, hell yes, but the quality of a Chinese HID light will probably leave you wanting more.


----------



## kuna (Aug 29, 2014)

I think I'll order a T6 barracuda this weekend. When it arrives I'll let you guys know how it is


----------



## kuna (Sep 4, 2014)

Well the light arrived today, and after charging each battery for about 3 hours, the voltages were about 3.66 and 3.7 volts respectively for the test. My first impression was that the beam wasn't as bright as I wanted, but I know that's because I ordered the T6 version and not the U2. The color tint was warmer than I expected; it was almost like an incandescent. Still not really a bad thing in itself as the light is definitely bright.(I wish I would have gotten the U2 cool light version, the beam would have been amazing I'm sure)

I tested the lux @ 3 meters and 1 meter on high/turbo mode, and at 3 meters it was about 9000 lux, which is about 81,000 cd. On medium power 730 lumens it was 6000 lux. I tested the lux @ 1 meter and the most I could get was 50k lux. Overall a good light. I'll have to do a little more testing outside.


----------



## cland72 (Sep 5, 2014)

kuna, don't get down on the light before you get outside and use it after dark. Don't get too caught up on tint, brightness, and lux. The light really needs to be used to be appreciated. Let us know your thoughts after fielding it!


----------



## richardcpf (Sep 5, 2014)

kuna said:


> after charging each battery for about 3 hours, the voltages were about 3.66 and 3.7 volts respectively for the test.



What charger and batteries are you using? 3.7V after 3 hours charge doesn't seem quite right. And there is not that much increased output T6 vs U2, at least not easily noticeable. I think you should try with fully charged batteries.


----------



## kuna (Sep 5, 2014)

cland72 said:


> kuna, don't get down on the light before you get outside and use it after dark. Don't get too caught up on tint, brightness, and lux. The light really needs to be used to be appreciated. Let us know your thoughts after fielding it!



Yes I should have used it outside a bit more. I went outside for a short time and shined it at a few trees ranging from 60-100 meters away, and even on the medium/high mode it lights them up pretty good. It was only a very quick test and I know I haven't seen the light's full potential yet. I'll probably bring it somewhere else this weekend that's a little bit better for testing.



richardcpf said:


> What charger and batteries are you using? 3.7V after 3 hours charge doesn't seem quite right. And there is not that much increased output T6 vs U2, at least not easily noticeable. I think you should try with fully charged batteries.



The charger is a cheap, single-cell li-ion charger that is rated at 450mA. The batteries came charged at about 3.55 volts and after about 3.5 hours of charging each one separately(~6 hours in total) they were at around 3.7 volts. I tested the light indoors for probably about 20 minutes total using the different modes and the voltage of the batteries was around 3.6 volts after testing. I put one battery in the charger last night and after about 8 1/2 hours of charging, the battery only made it to 4.1 volts from 3.6 lol. I'm currently charging the second battery. I think I'm definitely gonna need a better charger than this, but my only other charger is a double-cell 18340 charger.


----------



## selfbuilt (Sep 5, 2014)

kuna said:


> I tested the lux @ 3 meters and 1 meter on high/turbo mode, and at 3 meters it was about 9000 lux, which is about 81,000 cd. ... I tested the lux @ 1 meter and the most I could get was 50k lux.


Yes - that just goes to show why you can't actually measure beam intensity at those short distances. Basically, you have to take it out to distances where you get consistent cd results. So if you try 5m and get higher than 3m, that means 3m wasn't good enough (just like your results above show 1m isn't good enough for an accurate reading). As for absolute values, that's also assuming your lightmeter is accurate (and I've seen a lot of variability on budget ones - up to ~40%!).

Something is definitely wrong with your charger - time to invest in a new one!

And I agree with cland72 - you really need to take it outside at night to see how it compares to your other lights in practice (once your get fully charged cells). Good luck!


----------



## kuna (Sep 5, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes - that just goes to show why you can't actually measure beam intensity at those short distances. Basically, you have to take it out to distances where you get consistent cd results. So if you try 5m and get higher than 3m, that means 3m wasn't good enough (just like your results above show 1m isn't good enough for an accurate reading). As for absolute values, that's also assuming your lightmeter is accurate (and I've seen a lot of variability on budget ones - up to ~40%!).
> 
> Something is definitely wrong with your charger - time to invest in a new one!
> 
> And I agree with cland72 - you really need to take it outside at night to see how it compares to your other lights in practice (once your get fully charged cells). Good luck!



Yeah 1 meter is not a good distance to test such a light. Three meters is my standard testing distance and the result is pretty much the same as what is stated by Armytek themselves. They have these lights conservatively rated @ about 500 meters throw for the T6 and 520 meters for the U2 on the datasheet they provided, but others show it's a little bit more. I have no idea what's up with the charger, as I use it to charge a 14500 battery for another light, and it charges it fully in about 1.5-2 hours.(1000 mAh) It seems like it would take about 15 hours for it to charge one of these 3 Ah 18650s though :/


----------



## LeftThumb (Sep 8, 2014)

Total NOOB here. First post. I just wanted to comment today I took out a Barracuda white to compare it against my Predator 2.5 pro in throw and I honestly could see no difference. These are both mounted as weapon's lights. I'm wondering did I somehow put in the wrong kind of battery? Am I going blind? LOL. I am definitely on the highest output. I fully expected the Barracuda to kick butt and now I'm just wondering. I took some time to compare the beams on targets from 25 to 300 yards and I couldn't tell any difference between the Barracuda and Predator. If anything the Predator was brighter. I tested under live fire with the same results. Farthest shots attainable were the same with both (about 100 yards, non magnified optic) . I'll be calling Armytek tomorrow to ask if I'm doing something wrong. I did switch out the batteries several times and tested them in other lights. I'm very non-technical when it comes to lights so forgive my total seat of the pants commenting.


----------



## selfbuilt (Sep 8, 2014)

LeftThumb said:


> I just wanted to comment today I took out a Barracuda white to compare it against my Predator 2.5 pro in throw and I honestly could see no difference.


Sounds like something is wrong. A typical Predator produces ~35,000cd (~374m beam distance to 0.25 lux), while a typical Barracuda should be at least close to ~100,000cd (~632m beam distance). This means that the distance the Barracuda throws a spot of any given center intensity should be ~1.7 times the Predator (i.e., ~70% further). A good way to test this would be to set a target up at, say 25 yards for the Predator, and 42 yards for the Barracuda. The relative light intensity on the respective targets should be the same.

It's important to realize that even when using two targets at the same distance, the Barracuda will NOT be perceived as anywhere three times brighter than the Predator (or even ~70% for that matter). This is because our relative perception of light is non-linear. In fact, a cube root correction is the best match for non-point sources of lights (which is even less noticeable than the square root correction for how light decays due to distance). So, even though the Barracuda has ~185% more peak intensity than the Predator, when matched side by side shining on something at the same distance, the Barracuda may very well only "seem" somewhere between ~45% (cube root) to ~70% (square root) brighter to your eye.

But any way you slice it, you should still be able to notice the difference visually. If you can't, something is wrong.

And :welcome:


----------



## kuna (Sep 8, 2014)

LeftThumb said:


> Total NOOB here. First post. I just wanted to comment today I took out a Barracuda white to compare it against my Predator 2.5 pro in throw and I honestly could see no difference. These are both mounted as weapon's lights. I'm wondering did I somehow put in the wrong kind of battery? Am I going blind? LOL. I am definitely on the highest output. I fully expected the Barracuda to kick butt and now I'm just wondering. I took some time to compare the beams on targets from 25 to 300 yards and I couldn't tell any difference between the Barracuda and Predator. If anything the Predator was brighter. I tested under live fire with the same results. Farthest shots attainable were the same with both (about 100 yards, non magnified optic) . I'll be calling Armytek tomorrow to ask if I'm doing something wrong. I did switch out the batteries several times and tested them in other lights. I'm very non-technical when it comes to lights so forgive my total seat of the pants commenting.



Did you check the voltages of the batteries before you put them into the light? When I first tested my light the batteries were about 3.6 volts, but the constant brightness feature of the barracuda means that it should be able to run full power on that voltage just fine.(for a little while anyway) It's hard to believe that your barracuda is defective based on the quality that these lights are supposed to be manufactured to, but it's possible. I guess it's worth asking, did you make sure the bezel was completely tightened so the light was in turbo mode? If the bezel was not completely tightened, the light will switch between three modes and the highest mode is about 750 lumens. When the bezel is tightened it will go into turbo mode at about 1050 lumens.


----------



## LeftThumb (Sep 8, 2014)

Thanks Selfbuilt, Kuna,

I just ordered some 3400mAh 3.7V Panasonic 18650's from Amazon, just to be sure. I had been using Tenergy 2600 mAh 3.7's on both the Predator and Barracuda. I did go through all the modes with the head tightened and loosened to be sure I wasn't somehow stuck on the lower power modes. I think the light is simple in that way if I simply tighten the head all the way, I should be on max, right? I took some good looks at targets with both beams from the Predator and Barracuda. The beam pattern seemed a little tighter on the Barracuda but intensity was the same or less. The acid test was the live fire where practically the Barracuda has to allow me to see the target more clearly at a longer distance, as per Seflbuilt, which it didn't. All the testing was done in the desert with a near full moon and clouds. I spoke to Armytek today but their support person was out. I have the same feeling towards Armytek as others in that they seem really solid. My Predator is my favorite weapon's light outdoors so I'm hoping I'm just doing something stupid. The Barracuda was purchased off Amazon. 

Great forum guys. Really appreciate the info and discussions from members here.


----------



## LeftThumb (Sep 9, 2014)

I replaced the batteries with brand new Panasonic 18650's and the same result. Hot spot intensity is the same or less than the Predator. I'll be requesting a return from Amazon. Disappointing for sure and a waste of ammo.


----------



## LeftThumb (Oct 1, 2014)

For those curious Andrew and Amanda tested my Barracuda and found the same thing. For some reason the output was low. It was about the same or slightly less than the Predator 2.5. They're sending me back a new Barracuda. Excellent service. One more try now! Also, Armytek did contact me a few days later and asked I send them a picture or video. I didn't do this since by then I had already sent the light back to A and A.


----------



## cland72 (Oct 2, 2014)

Glad they are taking care of you!


----------



## LeftThumb (Oct 5, 2014)

Yep. Lost a little in shipping but their response was quite fast and hassle free. I just got the new Barracuda sent back priority and so far it works like a champ. I can tell for sure now that this is a more powerful light. Interestingly, the texture of the coating of the body seems a little different. Will be testing in the field soon. Thank goodness. I've had a run of bad luck with double 18650 lights. I had a MX3 Triton 1200 that died after 5 seconds. That was through Optics Outlet who took care of it promptly also.


----------



## dpadams6 (Oct 1, 2015)

Any new updates on the flashlight?


----------



## shooterSVT (Feb 3, 2016)

Hey all. Selfbuilt, awesome review as always! I'd love to be a fly on the wall as you review one of these!


Anyway, I was in the forest of the Upper Peninsula (Michigan) at night off roading, and sure enough, it became a flashlight contest! I was awe struck by a buddies Olight M2X and knew that I needed a "thrower"! I'm in love with the M3XS, but then found this review. Problem is, I can't find the U3 model anywhere. 

Armytek lists the LED for their "Pro" model as a XP-L High Intensity. Not sure if that's the U3 or not. Anyway, anyone that's gone looking for this light, please post if you've found it. The finish looks great, and it might throw farther with less spill, but I can get the Olight with Prime shipping in two days, so that is a certain plus!


Thanks in advance for any comments or help.


Todd


----------



## gyzmo2002 (Feb 3, 2016)

*ArmyTek Barracuda (XM-L2 U3, 2x18650/4xCR123A) Thrower Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUN...*

The Barracuda v3 does not exist. I have the Barracuda Pro v2 LE XP-L HI.

https://www.armytek.com/products/flashlights/search-and-rescue/armytek-barracuda-pro/

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/397738


----------



## scs (Feb 3, 2016)

shooterSVT said:


> Hey all. Selfbuilt, awesome review as always! I'd love to be a fly on the wall as you review one of these!
> 
> 
> Anyway, I was in the forest of the Upper Peninsula (Michigan) at night off roading, and sure enough, it became a flashlight contest! I was awe struck by a buddies Olight M2X and knew that I needed a "thrower"! I'm in love with the M3XS, but then found this review. Problem is, I can't find the U3 model anywhere.
> ...



The XM-L U3 version featured in this review was a limited release model of Barracuda V1, I believe. 
I guess you can say we're in V3 now, so you'll unlikely still find V1, and even more unlikely to find a limited release version of it.


----------

