# P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)



## Fizz753

[Continued from Part 2]

While reading the thread titled "*Dealextreme drop in for G2, 6P, etc???*" I started making a list of the drop-in's I saw. It got a little out of hand. 
I thought I would put the list out here instead of buried 10 pages in to the above thread (no offense to the guys and gals in said thread :wave

** Don't forget to check out the *P60 Flashlight List {host}* post as well. (and add to it if you can  ) **

** *BatteryJunction.com* **

THRUNITE P60 Style Cree XP-G R5 LED Drop In - 3 mode
http://www.batteryjunction.com/thrunite-3mode-p60-r5.html
$34.95
300 Lumens (1A Drive Current) (Tested 260 OTF per MrGman)
2.7-9V input voltage
Cree XP-G R5 LED
Outer spring is removable for some fitments
Alumium textured/OP reflector with bronze heatsink base
Bezel diameter: 26.5mm
Copper base diameter: 19mm
Height including support spring: 36.7mm
Height excluding support spring: 28.8m

THRUNITE P60 Style Cree XP-G R5 LED Drop In - 1 Mode
http://www.batteryjunction.com/thrunite-p60-r5.html
$32.95
300 Lumens (1A Drive Current) (Tested 260 OTF per MrGman)
2.7-9V input voltage
Cree XP-G R5 LED
Outer spring is removable for some fitments
Alumium textured/OP reflector with bronze heatsink base
Bezel diameter: 26.5mm
Copper base diameter: 19mm
Height including support spring: 36.7mm
Height excluding support spring: 28.8m

P60 Style Cree R2 LED Drop In - 1 Mode
http://www.batteryjunction.com/1-mode-led-upgrade-r2.html
Regular Price: $39.95
Sale Price: $19.95
225 Lumens (1.1A Drive Current)
3.6-18V input voltage
Outer spring is removable for some fitments
Alumium textured/OP reflector with copper heatsink base
Bezel diameter: 26.5mm
Copper base diameter: 19mm
Height including support spring: 36.7mm
Height excluding support spring: 28.8mm

P60 Style Cree R2 LED Drop In - 225 Lumens - 5 Mode 
http://www.batteryjunction.com/5-mode-led-upgrade-r2.html
Regular Price: $42.95
Sale Price: $21.95
225 Lumens (1.1A Drive Current)
3.6-18V input voltage
High/Medium/Low Output PLUS Strobe & SOS Modes
Hi (225 lumens) > Mid (130 lumens) > low (80 lumens) > Strobe > SOS
Cycle level/mode with soft press (most clickies work) to switch level/mode
Outer spring is removable for some fitments
Alumium textured/OP reflector with copper heatsink base 

P60 Style UV UltraViolet LED Drop In Flashlight Upgrade Engine 395-405nm
http://www.batteryjunction.com/p60-uv-buld.html
Regular Price: $34.95
Sale Price: $19.95
3-Watt UV LED Drop-in for Surefire and other P60/P61 etc style lamp and bulb lights.
DC-DC regulated for 3V-9V. Able to take 2 x CR123A,2 X RCR123A 3V or 1 x 18650 3.7V
Wavelength = 395nm - 400 nm

P60 Style 940NM InfaRed IR Drop In
http://www.batteryjunction.com/infrared-ir-p60-drop-in.html
Regular Price: $49.95
Sale Price: $24.95
940NM output
6-8.4V input voltage
Outer spring is removable for some fitments
Alumium textured/OP reflector with copper heatsink base 

Surefire P60L LED Assembly
http://www.batteryjunction.com/surefire-p60l.html
Price: $49.00
Max Output: 80 lumens; Runtime: Up to 12 hours, depending on flashlight model
Precision reflector helps create a smooth, flawless, user-friendly beam
Fits in SC1 Spares Carrier for field deployment 

** *Lumens Factory* **
http://www.lumensfactory.com/cart.php?cat_id=2&sub_cat_id=7

D26-LED High Output Single Mode LED Reflector Module (3.6V-13V)
$24.00 - 3.6V to 13V Regulated Input for Maximum Flexibility - High Output Cree XR-E, R2 LED
Maximum Current Output at 1000mA - High Colour Temperature (Cool White, 5000K-10000K according to Cree)
High Temperature Resistant Orange Peel Coating - Every Reflector Module is Pre-Focused for the Ultimate Spot

D26-LED Selected Warmer Tint Version (Limited Quantity) (3.6V-13V)
$28.00 - 3.6V-13V Regulated Input - Maximum Current Output at 1000mA - High Output Cree XR-E, R2 LED
Selected using Integrated Photometric Sphere to have Warmer Colour Temperature (5000K-5500K)
High Temperature Resistant Orange Peel Coating - Every Reflector Module is Pre-Focused for the Ultimate Spot

D26-LED 3.6V Special LED Module (Selected Tint)
$28.00 - High Output Single Mode, Cree XR-E, R2 LED
Designed for 3.6V Rechargeable Applications, Input 2.4V to 4.2V (general voltage range of one 3.6V li-ion rechargeable battery)
Maximum Current Output at 1200mA Constant Output at 1000-1200mA, Warmer Colour Temperature (5000K-5500K)

D26-LED 3 Mode (Low-Mid-High, Memory) LED Module (3V-3.7V)
$28.00 - Cree XR-E, R2 LED, Warmer Colour Temperature (5000K-5500K)
3V-3.7V Regulated Input, 3 Mode (Low-Mid-High with Memory, 5%-30%-100%)
Orange Peel

D26-LED 3 Mode (Low-Mid-High, Memory) (6V-13V)
$28.00 - Cree XR-E, R2 LED, Warmer Colour Temperature (5000K-5500K)
6V to 13V Regulated Input, Orange Peel 

** *Dealextreme* **

Ultrafire Cree, Regulator, Reflector 1x18650 2xCR123A Lamp Assembly
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13143
$10.40 accepted voltage: 3.6V ~ 9.0V 900mAh regulator board Orange-peel aluminum reflector

3W Cree, Regulator, Reflector 1x18650 2xCR123A Module Set
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14247
$12.80 accepted voltage: 3.6V ~ 9.0V 900mAh regulator board Orange-peel aluminum reflector

DX 3W Cree Module CM1
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.32314
$10.82 3.2V~9.0V Input
Beamshots + review at: http://www.light-reviews.com/cm1/

SSC 42180-T 3W Emitter Reflector Driver Module
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.44068
$13.79 Input voltage: 3.7V ~ 8.0V Current: 900mA

3W Cree Drop-in Module (supports Surefire 6P)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.60590
$7.73 3V~18V, textured aluminum reflector

Cree 5-Mode Emitter Reflector and Driver Module
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.42696
$9.97 Typical driving voltage: 3.7V (maximum voltage: 4.2V. Do not exceed.)

Cree Drop-in Module for Surefire 6P
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.60776
$7.73 Voltage Range: 2.9V ~ 9V

Cree Drop-in Module
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.71862 
$12.48 Ultrafire 4-Mode 3.7V~6V 

KLC8 LED Emitter with Driver and Reflector Module Set
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.88935
$9.90 (3.7V~6.5V Input)

Q5-WC 3-Mode 0~100% LED Drop-In Module
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.111074
$16.90 3-Mode: 0~100% (adjustable) > Strobe > SOS 3.7V
Review: http://www.light-reviews.com/dx_sku_11074/

Cree Q5 LED Drop-in Module
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.112621
$8.69 Input Voltage Range: 3.7V~18V Maximum Output: 200 Lumens

Cree Q5 LED 5-Mode Drop-in Module
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.113622
$12.96 3.6V~7.2V Input, Current and lumens are rated by the manufacturer
1. Low 25mA, 80LM
2. Mid 550mA, 120LM
3. High 950mA, 200LM
4. Strobe 800mA, 250LM
5. SOS 800mA, 200LM

Cree R2 Drop-In 1-Mode LED Module
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.118346
$9.10, Input: 3.7V~18V, Output: 117~225 Lumens (manufacturer rated)

Cree P4 1-Mode LED Drop-In Module 
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.118150
$9.53 Input: 3V~12V

Cree Q2 LED Drop-In Module for WF-502B and Similar Flashlights
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.125061
$11.29, 3.6V~12V Input, Single mode regulated circuitry

Cree XR-E R2-WC 5-Mode 250-Lumen LED Drop-in
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.137658
$10.56 Input: 3.6V - 8.4V, Reflector: Textured, Memory: Unknown
Modes: High (250 lumens) > Mid (150 lumens) > low (80~100 lumens) > Strobe > SOS

Cree XR-E Q5 1-Mode Drop-in LED
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.138802
$11.80 Input: 3.7V - 12V, Textured aluminum reflector

Cree R2-WC 250-Lumen 5-Mode Memory Drop-in LED
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.144492
$11.73 - Input voltage range: 3.0V~8.4V - - Maximum brightness: 250 lumens (manufacturer rated)
5-Mode driver circuitry with mode memory: Hi > Mid > Lo > Strobe > SOS - Alumium textured/OP reflector

Cree R2-WC 3-Mode + 0~100% LED Drop-in
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1759003
$11.39, Input: 3.6V~8.4V, Cree XR-E R2-WC LED, 
200 lumens (manufacturer rated), Aluminum textured reflector

P4-WC 3-Mode 0~100% LED Drop-In Module
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.111075
$13.85 - Voltage Input: 3V ~ 15V, Cree P4 (color WC) Emitter (190 Lumens max)
DX says 3 Mode: 0~100% (adjustable) > Strobe > SOS. However users are reporting that it's now a 5-mode (Lo, Med, Hi, Strobe, SOS).

Cree MC-E LED 3-Mode 410-Lumen Drop-in Module w/Copper Heatsink Base
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.212037
$23.49 - Emitter Type: Cree MC-E - BIN: K-WC - Voltage Input: 2.7V~4.2V
Mode Arrangement: Hi (2800mA, 410LM) > Lo (1000mA, 100LM) > Strobe (1500mA, 200LM)
Update: Reacently tested by MrGman over in the Actual Lumens readings in 6" dia. Lab Sphere IS with SC 5500 control thread. Readings were:
DX_MC-E High - 385 lumens turn-on - 345 lumens warm. Low 150 lumens warm.

Cree XPE-WC-R2 5-Mode LED Drop-in
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.253369
$11.66 - XPE-WC R2, Voltage Input 2.6~4.2V, 4.2V max 
Hi 280LM 1200mA > Mid 200LM 800mA > Low 120LM 500mA > Fast Strobe 200LM 1000mA > SOS 250LM 1200mA

__

** *BugOutGearUSA* **
http://www.bugoutgearusa.com/ 

Cree R2 Drop-In Module
http://www.bugoutgearusa.com/crq5drmo.html
$47.95 
Approx. 240 Lumen 
Cree R2 LED Driven at 950mAH
3+ Hours Total Runtime
Regulated
Input Voltage: 4.5V - 12V
Shock/Recoil Proof
10,000 Hour LED Life
Aluminum Reflector
Brass Heat Sink
Improved Beam Pattern
__

** *Kaidomain* ** 

UltraFire SST-50 3.7V~4.2V
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=110277
$51.16
3-Mode OP/SMO Aluminum Reflector 

Cree Q5 Drop-In 1-Mode LED Module 
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=12775
$9.34 Voltage Range: 3V~18V

Cree R2 Drop-In 1-Mode LED Module 
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=13769
$9.49 Voltage Range: 3.7V~18V, Output: 117~225 Lumens (manufacturer rated)

CREE XR-E P4, 6P Drop-in Module
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=14634
$8.94 Voltage Range: 2.7V - 6V
Runtime:
About 1.7 hours on two 3.0V CR123A cells
About 2.5 hours on 17670 Li-ion cell
About 3.5 hours on 18650 Li-ion cell

K2 LED Drop-in (26mm) 
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=45880
$6.90 

CREE MC-E K bin 26.5mm 3.7V~4.2V OP Aluminum Lamp
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=71614
$25.99

CREE Q5 3.7~4.2V 5-Mode Drop-in
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=64736
$9.44

CREE R2 3.7~4.2V 1-Mode Drop
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=64835
$7.97 - 180 Lumens 

Solar Force CREE R2-M Model 5 (26.5mm) 3.7V Lamp
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=59236
$20.50

CREE P4 One Mode (3.7V~4.2V) Lamp
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=50091
$7.45

SolarForce CREE R2-M Model 5 (26.5mm) Lamp Drop-in
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=50086
$20.15 - Modes:Low/Mid/High/Strobe/SOS - Voltage input range 3.0V~8.4V
Voltage & Current (DC Power Supply) 3.0V~110mA,8.4V~580mA - Lumen: 230

Solar Force CREE R2 (26.5mm) Lamp 1-mode Drop-in 
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=51085
$19.36 - Reflector: OP Aluminum - Lumen: 230 - Voltage input range 3.0V~8.4V

3.7V~4.2V CREE XPG R5 WC LED 5-mode Lamp
http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=102064
$14.86
CREE XPG R5
200lumen/90minutes
Modes High/Mid/Low/Strobe/SOS

CREE XPE-Q3 5A Warm White 5-mode LED 
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=93770
$10.00
3.7*4.2 voltage 
OP Aluminum reflector

--

** *Malkoff Devices* - http://www.malkoffdevices.com/ **
http://www.malkoffdevices.com/shop/dropin-mod-dropins-to-fit-surefire-c-1_14.html

M60 Mod to fit Surefire
$55.00 - Input voltage 3.8V - 9V, Current Draw 750ma at 6 volts, Led is a Cree XRE 7090
Runtime is 1 1/2+ hours on 2 CR123 primary batteries, solid brass heatsink construction
Utilizes a Cree 8 degree optic.

M60F 20 Degree Flood
$55.00 - Input voltage 3.8V - 9V, Current Draw 750ma at 6 volts, Led is a Cree XRE 7090
Runtime is 1 1/2+ hours on 2 CR123 primary batteries, solid brass heatsink construction
output is 220+ lumens, The optic produces an outstanding room lighting beam. 
Throw is typically limited to approximately 120+/- feet. Utilizes a Cree 20 degree optic

M60L (Low Output)
$55.00 - Input voltage 3.8V - 9V, Current Draw 350ma at 6 volts, Led is a Cree XRE 7090
Runtime is 4 1/2+ hours on 2 CR123 primary batteries, solid brass heatsink construction
output is 140+/- lumens, Utilizes a Cree 8 degree optic

M60LF (Low output - Flood)
$55.00 - Input voltage 3.8V - 9V, Current Draw 350ma at 6 volts, Led is a Cree XRE 7090 Q5 WG tint
Runtime is 4 1/2+ hours on 2 CR123 primary batteries, solid brass heatsink construction
output is 140+/- lumens, The optic produces an outstanding room lighting beam. 
Throw is typically limited to approximately 100+/- feet. Utilizes a Khatod 25 degree optic

M60LL (Low Low output)
$55.00 - Input voltage 3.8V - 9V, Current Draw 170ma at 6 volts, Led is a Cree XRE 7090
Runtime is 8 +/- hours on 2 CR123 primary batteries, solid brass heatsink construction
output is 80 +/- lumens, Utilizes a Cree 8 degree optic

M30 to fit a Surefire
$55.00 Input voltage is 1-5.5 volts, The output is approximately 235+ lumens at 3.3v+ and 160+ lumens at 3v.
The runtime is 1 1/4+ hours on one CR123 primary battery. The LED is a Cree XRE 7090. 
This design utilizes a Cree 8 degree optic.

M30W (warm tint beam)
$55.00 The input voltage is 1-5.5 volts. The output is approximately 170 lumens at 3.3v+ and 120 lumens at 3v. 
The runtime is 1 1/4+ hours on one CR123 primary battery. The LED is a Cree XRE 7090. 
This design utilizes a Cree 8 degree optic. 

M60W (warm tint beam) 
$55.00 The input voltage is 3.8 - 9 volts. Below 3.8 volts it will drop out of regulation and run direct drive. 
The output is approximately 170 lumens. Runtime is 1 1/2+ hours on 2 CR123's. This design utilizes a Cree 8 degree optic. 
The LED is a Cree XRE 7090.

M60WF (warm tint, flood)
$55.00 The input voltage is 3.8 - 9 volts. Below 3.8 volts it will drop out of regulation and run direct drive. 
The output is approximately 170 lumens. The runtime is 1 1/2+ hours on 2 CR123's. This design utilizes a Cree 20 degree optic. 
The LED is a Cree XRE 7090.

__

** *Wolf Eyes drop-ins* ** http://www.pts-flashlights.com/products/productList.aspx?uid=1-25-114-147 **

Wolf Eyes - D26 3.7-13V Cree R2 WC LED Drop-in 
http://www.pts-flashlights.com/products/product.aspx?pid=1-25-114-147-6518
$63.99
Cree R2 WC bin HO 3.7V-13V D26
Output: 280 lumens
Voltage: 3.7V-13V 

Wolf Eyes - D26 3.7-6V Cree R2 WC LED 2-Mode High & Low
http://www.pts-flashlights.com/products/product.aspx?pid=1-25-114-147-6524
$68.99
Digital Cree R2 WC Bin LED HO 3.7V-6V D26 lamp assembly.
Output: 280 lumens
Voltage: 3.7V-6V 

Wolf Eyes - D26 3.7-6V Cree R2 WC LED 2-Mode Tactical Strobe
http://www.pts-flashlights.com/products/product.aspx?pid=1-25-114-147-6520
$69.99
Cree R2 WC Bin LED HO 3.7V-6V D26 lamp assembly.
Output: 280 lumens
Voltage: 3.7V-6V 

Wolf Eyes - D26 3.7-6V Cree R2 WC LED 4-Mode
http://www.pts-flashlights.com/products/product.aspx?pid=1-25-114-147-6526
$68.99
Digital Cree R2 WC Bin LED HO 3.7V-6V D26 lamp assembly.
Output: 280 lumens
Voltage: 3.7V-6V 
Circuit sequence: 100% (280 lumens), 20% and 2% for low. 

D26 3.7-6V Cree R2 WC LED Drop-in *Low VF* 
http://www.pts-flashlights.com/products/product.aspx?pid=1-25-114-147-6516
$59.99
Cree R2 WC Bin LED HO 3.7V-6V D26 lamp assembly.
Output: 280 lumens
Voltage: 3.7V-6V 

__

*** Lighthound.com *** - 

Lighthound Cree Drop-In
http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?...OD&ProdID=2605
$19.99 accepted voltage: 3V ~ 12.6V up to 240 lumens
LOP (Light Orange Peel) textured aluminum reflector

UNIQ Cree Q5 Drop-In 
http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3513
$17.99, 3.7 - 15V Input, 1000mA, Textured aluminum reflector

Solarforce LC-1 Drop-In with Cree R2 LED - Single Mode
http://www.lighthound.com/Solarforce-LC-1-Drop-In-with-Cree-R2-LED--Single-Mode_p_1633.html
$19.99 - Cree LED and an aluminum reflector (light orange-peel-textured reflective coating)
Single Level Constant Output, Input voltage: 3V-12.6V
Compatible with the Solarforce L2 and Surefire’s P-series flashlights

Solarforce LC-5 Drop-In with Cree R2 LED - Five Modes with Memory
http://www.lighthound.com/Solarforc...ee-R2-LED--Five-Modes-with-Memory_p_1634.html
$24.99 - Cree LED and an aluminum reflector (light orange-peel-textured reflective coating)
3 Levels+Flashing+SOS-signaling, Input voltage: 3V-8.4V
__


***Dereelight drop ins***
http://www.dereelight.com/module-list.htm​*1S(1-stage) cree XR-E module*
- Input Range: 2.8~4.2V
- Output Range: 1.2A
- Battery Type: 1x18650,1x17670
- Features: Constant output at it's fully input range
Over discharge protection

*1SM-2(1-stage multi power) Cree XR-E Q5 module (16V max)*
- Input Range: 3~16V
- Output Range: 1A
- Battery Type: 1x18650, CR123A's, RCR123's
- Features: Constant output at 4.5~16V. Recommended use 2xCR123A,3xCR123A or more.

*3SD(3-stage digital) Cree XR-E Q5 module*
- Input Range: 2.8~4.2V
- Output Range: 1.2A
- Battery Type: 1x18650, 1x17670
- Features: Constant output at it's fully input range
Three stage output,100%-50%-5%
Over discharge protection
Memory function
Change level by push switch

*3SM(3-stage Muti-power digital) Cree XR-E module*
- Input Range: 3~9V
- Output Range: 1.0A
- Battery Type: 1x18650, 2xCR123A, 2xRCR123
- Features: Constant output using CR123's
Three stage output,100%-50%-5%
Memory function
Change level by push switch

--

** *OpticsHQ P60 Head and tailcap* **

*LED Drop-In and Multi-Function Tailcap Kit*
http://www.opticshq.com/page/Optics/PROD/Surefire-HID/ACC-DTC-KIT
$89.99
Working voltage: 4.2-18.0v
Maximum output at the emitter approximately 220+ lumens about 2-3 hours
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]More than 6 hours at low output[/SIZE][/FONT]
Fits the following SureFire Lights: G2, G3, 6P, 6PD, 9P, Z2, G2Z, C2, C3, M2

*LED Drop-In and Multi-Function (Reverse) Tailcap Kit*
http://www.opticshq.com/page/Optics/PROD/Surefire-HID/ACC-DTC-R-KIT
$89.99
Working voltage: 4.2-18.0v
Maximum output at the emitter approximately 220+ lumens about 2-3 hours
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]More than 6 hours at low output[/SIZE][/FONT]
Fits the following SureFire Lights: G2, G3, 6P, 6PD, 9P, Z2, G2Z, C2, C3, M2
--

** G & P **
G&P Q5 230 Lumens CREE LED Flashlight Torch Lamp GP751
$41.99 Input: 4.5v - 9v

G&P Q5 LONG FOCUS 230Lm CREE LED Flashlight Lamp GP751L
$41.99 Input: 4.5v - 9v

(Ebay links are dead at the time of update.)
--

** Solarforce **
http://www.solarforce.hk/PRD/main.jsp

LC-1 (LED module)
Features:
Module consists of a Cree LED and an aluminum reflector (light orange-peel-textured reflective coating) 
Single, or 5 modes (3 Levels+Flashing+SOS-signaling) 
Compatible with the Solarforce L2 and Surefire’s P-series flashlights 
- Models available: 
I. LC-1 (R2 or Q5, single mode, 3V - 18V) 
II. LC-1 (R2 or Q5, 5 modes, 4.2V - 8.4V)
III. LC-1 (R2 or Q5, 5 modes, 3.7V only)

LC-IR (Infra-red LED module)
Features:
Module consists of a IR LED and an aluminum reflector (mirror-like reflective coating) 
Compatible with the Solarforce L2 and Surefire’s P-series flashlights 

LC-UV (Ultra-violet LED module)
Features:
Module consists of an UV LED and an aluminum reflector (mirror-like reflective coating) 
Input voltage: 3 - 4.2V 
Compatible with the Solarforce L2 and Surefire’s P-series flashlights 

At the time of this update Lighthound has these in stock:

Solarforce LC-1 Drop-In with Cree R2 LED - Single Mode
http://www.lighthound.com/Solarforce-LC-1-Drop-In-with-Cree-R2-LED--Single-Mode_p_1633.html
$19.99 - Cree LED and an aluminum reflector (light orange-peel-textured reflective coating)
Single Level Constant Output, Input voltage: 3V-12.6V
Compatible with the Solarforce L2 and Surefire’s P-series flashlights

Solarforce LC-5 Drop-In with Cree R2 LED - Five Modes with Memory
http://www.lighthound.com/Solarforc...ee-R2-LED--Five-Modes-with-Memory_p_1634.html
$24.99 - Cree LED and an aluminum reflector (light orange-peel-textured reflective coating)
3 Levels+Flashing+SOS-signaling, Input voltage: 3V-8.4V



*-=Surefire P60L LED Reflector Assembly=- *
Max 80 lumens, Runtime up to 12 hours depending on flashlight model.
(stores listed in no particular order)
$49.00 - http://www.lapolicegear.com/sup6ledreas.html
$49.00 - http://supremeco.com.hk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_26_30&products_id=4755
$49.00 - http://www.surefire.com/maxexp/main/co_disp/displ/carfnbr/254/prrfnbr/24502/P60L-LED-Assembly

** Assorted forum posts that you might find useful**
DealExtreme 1343, 1447, and Wolf-Eyes 130 Lumen Cree Module *P60 Cree drop-in modules Runtimes!*
*REVIEW - CREE DROP IN from EBAY***VERY NICE****
*Wolf Eyes cree drop-in*
The post that started it *Dealextreme drop in for G2, 6P, etc???* 


And many posts I probably missed.

Thanks everyone!


----------



## jzelek

*Whats the Brightest P60 LED drop in Module?*

Hi everyone, I have a Malkoff M60 drop in for my Surefire 6P (Bored for a AW 18650).
Is this still the brightest P60 LED module you can buy or is there something new thats brighter using a R2 Bin?


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: Whats the Brightest P60 LED drop in Module?*

nope the M60 is the brightest... however if you can get him to make you an SSC-P7 direct drive that will blow it away. I had the recent opportunity to play around with one of these in an 18650-drilled 6P and it was VERY bright, almost a pure flood. Like carrying a 100 watt lightbulb


----------



## AMRaider

*Re: Whats the Brightest P60 LED drop in Module?*

+1 for the Malkoff M60.

I have found Malkoff's M60 to be excellent. There may be brighter drop-in modules out now, but you would need sophisticated equipment to actually see any difference. By the way, the current M60 (optic) has excellent throw.


----------



## Gunner12

*Re: Whats the Brightest P60 LED drop in Module?*

If you want output, see if you can get someone to make you a Seoul P7 or Cree MC-E drop-in. Think 4 P4s or XR-Es in one package. Each one will probably receive less current then a single P4 or XR-E but you get more output overall, and a wider, floodier beam.


----------



## SimpleIsGood229

*Re: Whats the Brightest P60 LED drop in Module?*



AMRaider said:


> +1 for the Malkoff M60.


Here's a big +2!



> By the way, the current M60 (optic) has excellent throw.


Yes, it does! I am blown away by the M60. I kind of wonder why I stuck with the P60L for so long.


----------



## harddrive

*Re: Whats the Brightest P60 LED drop in Module?*

A Dereelight 1S drop in drives the Q5 (or R2 if they are still in stock) at 1.2A on a single 18650/17670 battery. I found my dereelight to be brighter than my M60. (overall output and throw judged by my naked eye) 

Also I believe that the malkoff M30 with a 17670 in your 6P would be slightly brighter than the M60. 

Essentially it all comes down to what emitter is used and how hard it is being driven. Assuming all use a Q5, the Dereelight will be brightest, M30 next, M60 after that.

The other thing is "brightness" to some means overall output and to others they want a really bright hot spot and max throw. A Dereelight drop in with smooth reflector has a much brighter hot spot and further throw than a M60. It has less spill and more ringy beam too.

Like the other guys mentioned a P7 or MCE dropin will kill all the above for overall output but not throw.


----------



## jzelek

*Re: Whats the Brightest P60 LED drop in Module?*

I just purchased a Dereelight 3SD Cree XR-E WC *R2* (SMO & OP) driven at 1.2 amps (18650) from FlashCrazy.

I'll let you know how it compares to the Malkoff M60 (RCR 123s).

I really wanted a M30 (18650) but I haven't seen it in stock for a couple of months now.


----------



## Fizz753

Wow, part 3 already. 
Anyway the list has been updated, prices fixed some links updated etc. Enjoy.

And as always if you spot an error or something missing let me know and I'll get it fixed.


----------



## rejeme

Thanks CampingLED. I removed the outer spring and it fit like charm. Anybody else notice that the DX17593 acts funny when the batteries are low?


----------



## bigchelis

Please Add the Malkoff P7 drop-in. He makes a few now upon request, but next year I don't see how it wouldn't be added to his website as one of his many options.


----------



## MSRC93

I just ordered a Malkoff M60, Still trying to find a host light for it. Hmm. Maybe a 6P?

Can anybody post up some pics of the 6P M60 setups?

Any pointers, tips, tricks? I just ordered the bulb, how long does there shipping normally take?


----------



## Wolf359

i would suggest looking at the solarforce L2 as a P60 host i have found there build quality very good at a reasonable price


----------



## kramer5150

MSRC93 said:


> I just ordered a Malkoff M60, Still trying to find a host light for it. Hmm. Maybe a 6P?
> 
> Can anybody post up some pics of the 6P M60 setups?
> 
> Any pointers, tips, tricks? I just ordered the bulb, how long does there shipping normally take?



There is a P60 host thread floating around if you search for it, its not a sticky but it never really seems to die out completely. It would be off topic to recommend hosts in this thread... so I'll refrain.


----------



## kramer5150

DX:17593 is not a 3- mode module. Its a single mode, 0-100% ramping mode only. The DX description is incorrect.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Oa0KfMjwRk


----------



## glenda17

I received the DX Trustfire TR-C2 MCE P60 today. It pulls 1.8A from a 18650. It has good output but no where near a P7 Aurora, it also has the crumby cree rings. The tint is very indcandescent like. The hot spot isn't as strong as the UF501B R2, it is sort of a floody light with poor beam quality. The host is of nice quality. It has memory High-Low-Strobe. Not bad for under $35.


----------



## Winx

*Dereelight 3SD Q5 burned (almost)*

My 3SD burned last night when I was jogging with my girlfriend. It had brownish center even when it was new but yesterday it got really brown. I guessed right when I looked at the emitter: brown spot...

I don't think it was because of overheating. It was -9°C outside and 6P's body has always been warm after some use. The module is 9 months old so it doesn't have warranty. I already ordered WF-501B camo with R2 WC from DX and replace emitter from it. Cheapest option was Q5 WC with 14mm base from Shiningbeam or Solarforce R2 drop-in, but maybe I'll find some use for UF camo body .

Picture number 4 is underexposed to show how the beam looks in a real life.


----------



## kramer5150

I just did a similar transfusion last night. Pulling the R2-WC from my DX:14442 and transplanting it into a Husky XR-E spotlight. This one is the most pale-white of all my R2 emitters, and because of that it makes it appear brighter. RIP 14442

I couldn't get the emitter board out of the brass pill though. Not sure what DX uses for thermal adhesive but its solid. I just removed the DC board from the 14442, scraped off the residual solder, and placed the entire brass pill on the stove. The solder melted before the thermal adhesive degraded. So I just pulled the emitter straight from that.

:twothumbs


----------



## Pöbel

glenda17 said:


> I received the DX Trustfire TR-C2 MCE P60 today. It pulls 1.8A from a 18650. It has good output but no where near a P7 Aurora, it also has the crumby cree rings. The tint is very indcandescent like. The hot spot isn't as strong as the UF501B R2, it is sort of a floody light with poor beam quality. The host is of nice quality. It has memory High-Low-Strobe. Not bad for under $35.



i wouldn't recommend on buying that. The host is nice quality but has virtually no heatsinking. MC-E at 1,4A gets rather hot for an P60 host WITH good heatsinking.

The dropin itself isn't great either. The pill has really thin walls, the driver seems to be direct drive with pwm for the 2 levels.

It's better to build your own pill. Use kai's 2 mode driver with 3 7135 chips and add a 4th. this will give 1,4A.


----------



## dezertdog

*Re: Whats the Brightest P60 LED drop in Module?*



jzelek said:


> Hi everyone, I have a Malkoff M60 drop in for my Surefire 6P (Bored for a AW 18650).
> Is this still the brightest P60 LED module you can buy or is there something new thats brighter using a R2 Bin?


 
The M60 is not designed to run on 1 cell (3.7 volts), you should be using the M30 with an 18650. Running the M60 on 1 cell puts it in direct drive mode and you are only getting ~160 lumens instead of the rated ~235. Call up Gene and see if you can send it back and get the M30, or start using 2 cells (7.4 volts).

From their site:

M60
"_The input voltage is 3.8 - 9 volts. Below 3.8 volts it will drop out of regulation and run direct drive._"


M30
"_It was designed specifically to fit SureFire 3P, 6P, 6Z, C2, M2 and G2 flashlights WITH A SINGLE LITHIUM RECHARGEABLE CELL._"

"The input voltage is 1-5.5 volts."


----------



## etc

Is there a new R2 module that can run on both 2x18650 and also 4x123?

Meaning between 7.4V and 12V.


----------



## kosPap

Check at the begining of the thread. there are several on the list...

FIZZ you need to include the solarforce ones http://www.solarforce.hk/PRD/main.jsp


----------



## Fizz753

kosPap said:


> Check at the begining of the thread. there are several on the list...
> 
> FIZZ you need to include the solarforce ones http://www.solarforce.hk/PRD/main.jsp



Thanks! Got them on the list. Also got Lumens Factory's new 3.7v warm tint added that I over looked some how on the last update. Wow that's getting to be a big list.


----------



## grosoiseau

glenda17 said:


> I received the DX Trustfire TR-C2 MCE P60 today. It pulls 1.8A from a 18650. It has good output but no where near a P7 Aurora, it also has the crumby cree rings. The tint is very indcandescent like. The hot spot isn't as strong as the UF501B R2, it is sort of a floody light with poor beam quality. The host is of nice quality. It has memory High-Low-Strobe. Not bad for under $35.



I own this ligth too and I agree with you. This light has less outpout than 1*18650 Aurora 8 mode ssc P7, but is at least 25% smaller and has better runtime.

Maybe some expert on this forum could answer me, does the 
dx Q5 drop in at 16.90 USD worth the price in front of the MCE P60 drop in ? Could I hope for a brighter outpout ?


----------



## Pöbel

The MCE Drop-In in that light is crap. Heatsinking does not excist, terrible whining and pwm flicker.

I would only recommend a more powerful P60 Dropin if you have sufficient heatsinking - which means solutions requireing the outer spring for the module will not work for very long.

@grosoiseau

if you want flood, what you need is a MCE dropin. If you want throw, go for the q5 dropin.


----------



## kramer5150

Pöbel said:


> The MCE Drop-In in that light is crap. Heatsinking does not excist, terrible whining and pwm flicker.
> 
> I would only recommend a more powerful P60 Dropin if you have sufficient heatsinking - which means solutions requireing the outer spring for the module will not work for very long.
> 
> @grosoiseau
> 
> if you want flood, what you need is a MCE dropin. If you want throw, go for the q5 dropin.



FWIW, the malkoff P7 direct drive module gets HOT too. Thats just the nature of the beast, unfortunately.

I think the operators of these modules need to take caution and not leave the light on and unattended for long periods.

if you are using a 6P as host, You guys might want to try foil wrapping the module so it makes tight contact with the body. I find it makes a difference with all my modules.


----------



## Pöbel

It depends. If the heatsinking is good than super bright will work for short periods. If there is no heatsinking (i.e. with the outer spring installed, which is not the case with malcoff) than you will get  within minutes


----------



## pustefix8965

*DX sku 12501 on Romisen M4*

Hi all,

I've the DX sku 12501 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12501) which is a Q2 5A. I dropped it in my Romisen M4 and it is very bright, brigther than the stock P4 that came with M4. I am using protected 18650.

However, it became very hot after a few minutes, much hotter than the P4 and much hotter than all my other lights e.g. Fenix L1D/L2D, Romisen N3, Akoray. If I leave it on for 10 mins, it will be too hot to hold comfortably. Is it safe to use this drop in? Is there any way to improve it? Does using 2xCR123 helps?


----------



## SunnyQueensland

I'm a Surefire nOOb... :welcome:

A P60 drop-in will fit a 6P right? And does someone know where I can get a P7 drop-in... (with a really low low) 

Regards


----------



## kosPap

SunnyQueensland said:


> I'm a Surefire nOOb... :welcome:
> 
> A P60 drop-in will fit a 6P right? And does someone know where I can get a P7 drop-in... (with a really low low)
> 
> Regards


 
that would mean 750mA-1000mA instead of the 2800mA speced?

Then make it yourself....DX bare module, DX 3256 driver, yor choice of P7...


----------



## kramer5150

I am adding this thread to the P60 sticky. Theres a LOT of good data and measurement information that would be a shame to loose.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/211402

:twothumbs


----------



## Fizz753

kramer5150 said:


> I am adding this thread to the P60 sticky. Theres a LOT of good data and measurement information that would be a shame to loose.
> 
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/211402
> 
> :twothumbs



Chuckle, I was thinking of adding a link to it in the first post but a mod beat me to the punch and made it a sticky of its own it seems. :thumbsup:


----------



## AlexGT

I would like to add this drop-in to the database

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11075

What makes it special is that it has 5 modes (Lo, med, high, strobe, SOS) and works from 3 - 15 volts, no other driver on the list does that.

The stock P4 WC is very white but it can be replaced with a higher Bin Cree.

AlexGT


----------



## Bruce B

*P60 Drop-ins?*

Are there any companies that make P60 drop-ins that measure out their lumens from the front like surefire does rather than at the bulb?


----------



## Sgt. LED

*Re: P60 Drop-ins?*

I don't know of any.

The only lamps I would buy besides SF would be LumensFactory. come to think of it I wouldn't buy SF lamps anymore because of the flexibility of LF.

I hope you find what you're after.


----------



## Bruce B

*Re: P60 Drop-ins?*

I know of the LF bulbs, but it seems like the P60 size drops mainly run off RCR's and not Primaries. 

Not that using RCR's is bad, but I'd prefer to have the ability to run Primaries as a front line and backup battery.

Also I might look into a Malkoff once I get some $$$.


----------



## Marduke

*Re: P60 Drop-ins?*

Most of the dropins run equally well on both primaries and RCR123's. I can't think of a single one that accepts only 2xRCR123 and not 2xCR123.

Some of Malkoff's have been measured in an integrating sphere. The results are in a sticky thread.


----------



## Sgt. LED

*Re: P60 Drop-ins?*

OH you're after LED's?!

I though you were after actual bulbs and the thread just landed in the wrong spot. 
Sorry!

I think almost everybody's lumen ratings are exaggerated except for Malkoff and Deerelight.


----------



## Bruce B

*Re: P60 Drop-ins?*



Sgt. LED said:


> OH you're after LED's?!
> 
> I though you were after actual bulbs and the thread just landed in the wrong spot.
> Sorry!
> 
> I think almost everybody's lumen ratings are exaggerated except for Malkoff and Deerelight.



Okay and while I am a flashoholic, I am still considered a "newbie". So does Deerelight make any P60 sized LED drop-ins that have a good high lumen output and decent runtime?


----------



## Sgt. LED

*Re: P60 Drop-ins?*

OH YEAH!

Visit the marketplace dealer section and look for a guy named FlashCrazy.
He can help get you just what you want, he's their official dealer here.

You can get single mode, multi mode, specific tints, op or smooth reflectors!

Wolfeyes modules are good but for the price you should just go straight to Malkoff!


----------



## GreyShark

I'd like to get a single mode drop in that outputs about 20 lumens of flood for a very long time on 2 CR123's. The idea is I already have a really bright thrower for my 6P and I'd like something dimmer with a longer runtime for use up close that can live in an SC1 carrier when I go on a trip somewhere. Is anybody aware of such a thing?


----------



## baterija

*Re: P60 Drop-ins?*



Bruce B said:


> Are there any companies that make P60 drop-ins that measure out their lumens from the front like surefire does rather than at the bulb?



Actually it would be impossible to do a real out the front measurement that would apply because there is more in play than just the module. They could measure out the front of the module itself which would take into account reflector losses. That still doesn't take into account what the actual losses imposed by the lens and bezel (with say an assault bezel that extends into the beam pattern).

Surefire has the advantage of controlling all the variables when they measure. The best an individual module maker could do would be to specify a separate combination of elements. Imagine looking at 3 modules and comparing OTF 6P lumens on one module to OTF Dereelight CL1H lumens to a third spec'd in OTF Solarforce L2 with assault bezel lumens. :thinking:


----------



## J Smyth

I have always liked Surefire Flashlights and way back I bought 4 of the original 6P's for mine and my family's car glove boxes for emergency use. Then came along the Gladius and I got a few of them and now like the LED's better for everyday use because of the more white light output. I am pleased to see the new drop in LED's come out for the 6P's.  I just ordered a Malkoff M60 because of this thread. Just wanted to say Thanks for all the good info in here, much appreciated everybody. :twothumbs 

Now is there any tailcap choices on the 6P with the Malkoff M60 drop in that will give you multiple choices like a dimmer light choice or a strobe feature or are your options just the one output at 235 Lumens? :thinking: I see some other tailcaps that do have those functions but they said it doesnt work with the LED. Inquiring minds gotta know. 

Thanks in advance, Jim


----------



## kosPap

J Smyth said:


> Now is there any tailcap choices on the 6P with the Malkoff M60 drop in that will give you multiple choices like a dimmer light choice or a strobe feature or are your options just the one output at 235 Lumens? :thinking: I see some other tailcaps that do have those functions but they said it doesnt work with the LED. Inquiring minds gotta know.
> 
> Thanks in advance, Jim


 
have alook around...there has been a fresh thread ttiled somethig like "malkoff + surefire + mizer" where the starter has tested the Mizer tailcap with good success.. I have doen the same with the G&P Ai switch though it is not recommended for quality reasons


----------



## J Smyth

kosPap said:


> have alook around...there has been a fresh thread ttiled somethig like "malkoff + surefire + mizer" where the starter has tested the Mizer tailcap with good success.. I have doen the same with the G&P Ai switch though it is not recommended for quality reasons



Yep, here's the thread, Thanks :thumbsup:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/218475

Ordered 2 of the Lightsavers today.


----------



## s.duff

So how do you guys think the options Lighthound has in stock compare to the Lumensfactory models?


----------



## Brizzler

I'm afraid I'd like some advice, too, please:

I'm thinking about selling my *BOG Q5 Premium Plus* (well, it's now on sale on CPFMP...) because apart from the fact I haven't used it much the tint is too very cool for my liking these days.

I'm looking for an alternative with a *less cold tint* (doesn't mean I need it to be "warm", but that would not be bad, either), *good beam quality* (negligible Cree rings), as well-as *no-nonsense single stage operation*, *no gap* or contact issues fitting my C2 and rock-solid *reliability*. Must run fine on 2*Cr123 and 2*R123. 

Oh, yeah - before you suggest a *Malkoff M60W*, I can't see myself spending $60 on a drop-in. 

So I've been looking at *Lumens Factory (R2 select tint)* and *Dereelight (1SM-2 5A Q3 w/OP)* offerings. Will these do what I'm looking for? Any thoughts/suggestions? Or am I just much better off waiting until I can face paying $50 - for a Malkoff...?

Thanks!


----------



## Brizzler

In fact extensive use of the search function has allowed me to have most of my questions answered...


----------



## jblackwood

*Re: Dereelight 3SD Q5 burned (almost)*



Winx said:


> My 3SD burned last night when I was jogging with my girlfriend. It had brownish center even when it was new but yesterday it got really brown. I guessed right when I looked at the emitter: brown spot...
> 
> I don't think it was because of overheating. It was -9°C outside and 6P's body has always been warm after some use. The module is 9 months old so it doesn't have warranty. I already ordered WF-501B camo with R2 WC from DX and replace emitter from it. Cheapest option was Q5 WC with 14mm base from Shiningbeam or Solarforce R2 drop-in, but maybe I'll find some use for UF camo body .
> 
> Picture number 4 is underexposed to show how the beam looks in a real life.



Did you buy from Flashcrazy, Dereelight, or someone else? The first two might want to take a look at it just to see what went wrong. What kind of batteries were you using? I know that a lot of people like using RCR123's in their P60 sized lights but that can't be the case of you were using it for months. Though what you describe sounds like what other say happens if you use too high a voltage in the digital pills. I've never tries it for fear that my pill goes  but maybe there was some voltage issue even if you were using one 18650? 

Get in touch with Alan or Jay. They definitely know their products.


----------



## jblackwood

*Re: Whats the Brightest P60 LED drop in Module?*



dezertdog said:


> The M60 is not designed to run on 1 cell (3.7 volts), you should be using the M30 with an 18650. Running the M60 on 1 cell puts it in direct drive mode and you are only getting ~160 lumens instead of the rated ~235. Call up Gene and see if you can send it back and get the M30, or start using 2 cells (7.4 volts).
> 
> From their site:
> 
> M60
> "_The input voltage is 3.8 - 9 volts. Below 3.8 volts it will drop out of regulation and run direct drive._"
> 
> 
> M30
> "_It was designed specifically to fit SureFire 3P, 6P, 6Z, C2, M2 and G2 flashlights WITH A SINGLE LITHIUM RECHARGEABLE CELL._"
> 
> "The input voltage is 1-5.5 volts."



Would this hurt either the dropin or the battery? I just got mine yesterday and it's such a BEAUTIFUL beam profile. I've never seen one that nice.


----------



## highseas

Could someone please recommend a multi-mode (or adjustable) P60-sized drop-in that has a high of more then 150 lumens, and a low of less than 30 lumens? I have been trying to get one that will have the best of both worlds, so to speak. Right now I have a Solarforce R2 5-mode drop-in whose low is still too high for me (short runtime). I want something like this one, EXCEPT that the low can last more than 10 hours.

Does such a drop-in exist?

Thank you in advance.


----------



## kosPap

highseas you are caught not having done your homework! :thinking::naughty:
See at the start of the thread for the derrelight 3 stage modules.

I have one and while I do not know the low setting lumens I can tell you taht is right pretty low. a bit more than my Rexlight and Fenix LOD low...

Have a look at my sig for the link to my measurements file...

enjoy, kostas


----------



## highseas

Great, thanks. I somehow overlooked those. (I did look through the list, but didn't spot those). 100% 50% and 5% sounds like a perfect set up for me.

I was checking out the review (found on this thread) about the adjustable module: 17593 (on DX). It seems to be just what I have been looking for EXCEPT that it only has one mode, so I can't set it to, say, 5 lumens, 50 lumens, and then maximum.

Is there any module that resembles 17593, but which is able to be both adjustable and has multiple modes? (3 or more)

I saw two other adjustable modules on this threads, but it is said that they either don't work well with CR123s, or that it is no longer an adjustable one on DX.

Any help in helping me find a multi-mode adjustable light (with a really low, low, like 17593) which works with CR123 will be GREATLY APPRECIATED!


----------



## Hammer Train

I'm looking for a warm tint drop in with a very low low and a decent high, - 2 levels of output ideal but would take 3/5 or 0-100% ramping? any ideas?


----------



## highseas

Peter, it seems that this would work for you:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.17593

It only has one mode, but it allows ramping. It has a very low, low also. It is perfect for me except that it doesn't have multiple modes! (It only has one mode, despite the description)


----------



## Hammer Train

highseas said:


> Peter, it seems that this would work for you:
> 
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.17593
> 
> It only has one mode, but it allows ramping. It has a very low, low also. It is perfect for me except that it doesn't have multiple modes! (It only has one mode, despite the description)


 
Hmm, looks good - thanks! Not sure if the tint is warm enough though - 'WC'? Are there any really warm 'Q' bins available?


----------



## kramer5150

peterthomson said:


> Hmm, looks good - thanks! Not sure if the tint is warm enough though - 'WC'? Are there any really warm 'Q' bins available?



There is no such thing as a 2 mode module with high and a low-low that ramps. Closest thing are the DX 0-100 ramping modules. But as mentioned they are single mode only. Another alternative is a single mode module that drops out of regulation and runs DD at lower voltages. Combine that with the sandwiche-shoppe 2-stage resistor'd switch. I haven't tried it though, so I cant verify just how low it really is, and I am not sure how efficient it is compared to a moderately efficient low mode module.

IMHO DX17593 is VERY warm tinted at its lowest setting(s)... very yellow with a strong hint of green. It starts to whiten around the 10 Lumen point. So the color tint is very pleasing IMHO. Its the PWM that kind of annoys me


----------



## Hammer Train

What I meant was EITHER 0-100% ramping OR 2/3/5 mode - I can see how it may have looked like I was looking for something that doesn't exist! Are the 3-mode 5A Q3's any good from Dereelight?
http://www.dereelight.com/module-list.htm


----------



## kramer5150

peterthomson said:


> What I meant was EITHER 0-100% ramping OR 2/3/5 mode - I can see how it may have looked like I was looking for something that doesn't exist! Are the 3-mode 5A Q3's any good from Dereelight?
> http://www.dereelight.com/module-list.htm



oh... LOL sorry I miss-read that a little

One thing I find with the 17593 is it takes far too long to ramp up from low to high output. So its very impractical if you want to go from say 5L to 170L, its takes about 12 seconds to go from one extreme to the other.

Its a great nightstand type of light though because the low modes are within reach quickly, especially with a SF forward momentary, and its yellow tint is easy on night dilated eyes.


----------



## Hammer Train

kramer5150 said:


> There is no such thing as a 2 mode module with high and a low-low that ramps. Closest thing are the DX 0-100 ramping modules. But as mentioned they are single mode only. Another alternative is a single mode module that drops out of regulation and runs DD at lower voltages. Combine that with the sandwiche-shoppe 2-stage resistor'd switch. I haven't tried it though, so I cant verify just how low it really is, and I am not sure how efficient it is compared to a moderately efficient low mode module.
> 
> IMHO DX17593 is VERY warm tinted at its lowest setting(s)... very yellow with a strong hint of green. It starts to whiten around the 10 Lumen point. So the color tint is very pleasing IMHO. Its the PWM that kind of annoys me


 
Thanks for the info. If it wasn't for the PWM I probably would have gone for this one despite the warm tint only being at low levels of brightness. It's mainly the tint I am concerned with - at all levels of brightness if at all possible. The Q3 5A has a warm tint I believe? Any other ideas anyone?


----------



## Onuris

*P60 module*

Hi everyone, I just registered again after being away for a couple of years, got divorced, lost interest in a lot of things for a while. Would get on and just read a bit here from time to time though. Forgot what i was using for my old user name!

Anyway, I'm looking for something extremely bright to drop in my SF 6PL and similar lights. Does anyone know if there are any that will put out around 400 lumens or so? Maybe something with a P7 emiter.

Yes I did see the drop-in module sticky and did a search, but don't see anything like what I'm looking for, and honestly I don't have a lot of free time to read through everything.

So what I really want to know is what is the brightest P60 drop-in that is currently available.

Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## Mjolnir

*Re: P60 module*

This came out very recently:
http://www.malkoffdevices.com/shop2..._id=52&zenid=b81mimke038q0a1mj3ckmhqp9fvpjhsp
Its pretty expensive, but very good quality. Its an MC-E not a P7, but it should be similar.


----------



## Onuris

Thanks Mjolnir, that is exactly like what I'm looking for, haven't been to Gene's site in quite a while. The price seems reasonable, but cost is no object for me. To bad they are sold out, I am going to order a couple of them and hopefully they will come in soon.


----------



## loszabo

*Re: P60 module*



Mjolnir said:


> This came out very recently:
> http://www.malkoffdevices.com/shop2..._id=52&zenid=b81mimke038q0a1mj3ckmhqp9fvpjhsp
> Its pretty expensive, but very good quality. Its an MC-E not a P7, but it should be similar.



The price is shocking... 

Is this really an investment???


----------



## Brizzler

*Alternatives / Competitors to Malkoff M60L(W)*

Hi,

I'm playing with the idea of investing in a D-26 LED drop-in for my Surefire C2 that has a somewhat longer runtime than the typical 90min of the highest power drop-ins. As such I've obviously seen the Malkoff "L" series and am especailly interested in the warm-tinted variant M60LW.

What (preferably cheaper) alternatives are there to consider?

Thanks CPF!


----------



## djblank87

*Re: Alternatives / Competitors to Malkoff M60L(W)*

Cheaper is not better in the case of drop-in's. Malkoff's are worth every penny, save up if you have to and purchase at that time. Don't sell yourself short.


----------



## jblackwood

*Re: Alternatives / Competitors to Malkoff M60L(W)*



djblank87 said:


> Cheaper is not better in the case of drop-in's. Malkoff's are worth every penny, save up if you have to and purchase at the time. Don't sell yourself short.



+1. I can't agree with this statement more, take if from someone who has several less expensive drop-ins sitting in a drawer at home. My M60 is right here with me!


----------



## kyhunter1

*Re: Alternatives / Competitors to Malkoff M60L(W)*

Just like the others said, save up and get the Malkoff. Malkoff=Surefire in quality. Can't say that for sure about anybody else.


----------



## Brizzler

*Re: Alternatives / Competitors to Malkoff M60L(W)*

Thanks for the replies.



djblank87 said:


> Cheaper is not better in the case of drop-in's. Malkoff's are worth every penny, save up if you have to and purchase at the time. Don't sell yourself short.



Point taken, and don't get me wrong, I appreciate quality. I'm seriously considering getting one, but I don't feel I need "the best" drop-in out there, as my C2 is and will remain mainly for incan use, I'd just like the option of switching to an LED for longer runtime and higher durability from time to time. Which also means I'm a little reluctant to spend quite so much on a drop-in...

So are there any other single-mode D-26 drop-ins for 6V with a suitably efficient (preferably warm tinted) LED and a drive current <750mA?


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: Alternatives / Competitors to Malkoff M60L(W)*



djblank87 said:


> Cheaper is not better in the case of drop-in's. Malkoff's are worth every penny, save up if you have to and purchase at that time. Don't sell yourself short.



-1, Malkoffs designs (or any single mode, high lumen design) will not preserve night adapted vision. So in this regard cheaper might end up being more useful... or "better" as many here like to put it.

Brizzler the DX:12501 comes to mind right away as one of the lowest cost units. Its a Q2-5A emitter, I don't know what its drive current is though.


----------



## baterija

*Re: Alternatives / Competitors to Malkoff M60L(W)*



kramer5150 said:


> Brizzler the DX:12501 comes to mind right away as one of the lowest cost units. Its a Q2-5A emitter, I don't know what its drive current is though.



Brizzler -measurements at the tail from a post about 12501 here


> 4 cell 240ma
> 3 cell 320ma
> 2 cell 490ma
> 1-18650 470ma


Once you figure in cell droop and typical VF it's probably right around your upper limit for the current you want fed to the LED. 1 Li-ion cell looks like direct drive with lower current to the LED still.:thinking: 2x123 should give you about 3 hours from quality primaries at that draw.


----------



## Brizzler

Thanks a lot guys! 
Good to see that there is indeed a reasonable alternative to the M60WL.
Time for me to work out which drop-in would suit me best - could take a while:candle:...still contemplating higher power drop-ins, too - let's face it, even these will run for longer than my incan bulbs!


----------



## Winx

*Re: Dereelight 3SD Q5 burned (almost)*



jblackwood said:


> Did you buy from Flashcrazy, Dereelight, or someone else? The first two might want to take a look at it just to see what went wrong. What kind of batteries were you using? I know that a lot of people like using RCR123's in their P60 sized lights but that can't be the case of you were using it for months. Though what you describe sounds like what other say happens if you use too high a voltage in the digital pills. I've never tries it for fear that my pill goes  but maybe there was some voltage issue even if you were using one 18650?
> 
> Get in touch with Alan or Jay. They definitely know their products.



Late answer, but anyway... I bought it straight from Dereelight since I live in EU. I was using AW's 17670 so it's not about overvoltage. Unfortunately I screwed up the whole module and bought a new 3SD R2 WH. This time I'm not going to risk the life of the module and did following trick. Kramer's foil trick is also good, but I wanted to do something more permanent. Without the copper tape the pill got very, very hot. With the tape it keeps a lot cooler.


----------



## CampingLED

Something interesting on my 17593 module that I would like to share:
1) With the light set to a low mode and when I turn it off and on within a minute or two it turns on at the same intensity as before.
2) If I turn it off for 3 minutes plus (tested up to 10-minutes) and I turn it back on again it gives a sudden bright flash before stabilising at the pre-set low value.
3) If I turn it off for 30-minutes plus it works the same as in 1).

I was hoping that this could be the key to finding the H-M-L modes as per their title, but unfortunately I have not found it yet :sigh:.


----------



## rustys36

Has anyone tried hacking / modifying the DX17593? Has anyone tried to draw the schematic and determine what the chips are? Thanks.


----------



## kramer5150

rustys36 said:


> Has anyone tried hacking / modifying the DX17593? Has anyone tried to draw the schematic and determine what the chips are? Thanks.



I tried a couple nights ago... no dice. I wanted to replace the driver with an extra DX7882 and use a 17670 cell. The solder on mine is VERY robust, and the board is recessed down a little into the pill. I could not remove enough solder to get the DC-DC board out. So I just soldered it back up and am using it.

@campingLED... my module does the same thing. I have not yet been able to access the modes either. I have been using it as a 0-100 ramping module.


----------



## kosPap

well I have the same experience with the chinese solder... I guess it a soldering gun (the one that heats and adds solder at the same time) is used with a hard mixture....

I had better luck clipping off the biggest amount of it with needles tip cutting pliers...the drove an x-acto blade in the reccess to remove as much as...THEN i use the soldering iron..That thing WON"T flow...


----------



## kramer5150

kosPap said:


> well I have the same experience with the chinese solder... I guess it a soldering gun (the one that heats and adds solder at the same time) is used with a hard mixture....
> 
> I had better luck clipping off the biggest amount of it with needles tip cutting pliers...the drove an x-acto blade in the reccess to remove as much as...THEN i use the soldering iron..That thing WON"T flow...



Yeah I can usually get the DC board out with solder braid/vac, my 80 watt weller iron, and x-acto knife to trim. At least that worked modding my 11836 and 6090. This particular 17593 however has the board recessed about 1-2mm into the pill, so I can't trim/cut the solder with the x-acto knife, and no amount of solder wick/vac could get it out.


----------



## kosPap

I meant try to onsert the blade in the board/pill junction gap. it there is place for it then there is solder to remove. otherwise you have a stuck oversized board. 

This has happened with a derrelight of mine....It hurt!


----------



## Nite

thanks this is just what i need for my new purchase!


----------



## Wiggle

I'm getting a Solarforce L2 and some drop ins. I had one last question, how big of a deal is it to change dropins? Is it likely to wear down the light a bit if you change them very often?


----------



## Fizz753

Wiggle said:


> I'm getting a Solarforce L2 and some drop ins. I had one last question, how big of a deal is it to change dropins? Is it likely to wear down the light a bit if you change them very often?



Wear should not be too much of an issue unless you REALLY mean "very often". Its pretty easy to change them out, unscrew the bezel, take the old one out, drop in the new one and screw the bezel back on, all done! Just make sure the threads are lubed and you don't cross thread the parts and you should be fine.


----------



## Wiggle

Good to hear, I'm going for the L2 with the 18650 extension and forward clicky. Getting DX12501 to see what I think of the warmer colour temperature and if I like it I may go spendy and get the M60W MC-E.


----------



## steveG

Sorry for the newbie question guys, but I searched and can't find what I'm looking for.

Anyone know of a runtime chart for the 6090? How about other DX drop-ins?

Thanks!


----------



## robmints

Please don't beat me too bad for asking this. I've searched and read and don't understand much of it. 

Looking to get brighter output from my 6pl. I'm not very smart and am looking for a simple way to get more light. I can't keep track of how long the light has been used for so I think I want regulated batteries. I don't care if the light just drops off but I spend a lot of time with diminished light output while waiting for the batteries to die enough to warrant replacement, I would rather bright and then dead.

M60 with 2 regular 123 batteries?
or
M60 with 2 rcr123?
or
M60 with 1 18670 (I don't mind boring out to 18mm)?

Or something else real easy?

Thanks for your patience and understanding in answering such a simple question that I can't seem to find the answer to.


----------



## CampingLED

I would go *M30* with 1 x 18650


----------



## robmints

CampingLED said:


> I would go *M30* with 1 x 18650


Thank you, bored out and waiting for M30's to be back in stock. Looking for safe, quality batteries, any recommendations?


----------



## kosPap

well answer to this question is actually a race to....

...AW batteries sold here in the marketplace...


----------



## robmints

Thank you. I did some more searching and ordered 2 aw18650 and a pila charger. Got all from bugout. They had both and shipping was reasonable, that beat out better pricing and 2 shipping charges from separate places.

But I have been kind of disappointed in the light output from this light, (SF6pl) expected more for the price. I really like the durability and quality of the housing, hope the M30 does the trick.


----------



## kramer5150

robmints said:


> But I have been kind of disappointed in the light output from this light, (SF6pl) expected more for the price. I really like the durability and quality of the housing, hope the M30 does the trick.



The M30 will smoke the P60L, note that the 6PL can not host 18650 cells. 17670 will work fine though.


----------



## robmints

kramer5150 said:


> The M30 will smoke the 6PL, note that the 6PL can not host 18650 cells. 17670 will work fine though.



I just drilled it out with a 23/32 drill. Ended up about 18.2mm. I have read and read and can't figure out if I should have gotten 18650's or 18670's. But I could not find 18670's or much info on them so I bought the aw 18650's that say they are regulated. But I thought the 2mm difference between the 650's and the 670's was some kind of regulating wafer in the 670's. So I have no idea, just hope I don't blow up. There is so much info here the search function is near impossible to use, I feel like I should have hired a guide to lead me through the maze of CPF.

Thanks for looking out for me kramer5150, I can use all the help I can get. And I appreciate it too.


----------



## Chrontius

Are there any production MC-E or P7 modules other than the Malkoffs? I'd love one, but even if I closed my bank account I couldn't swing one right now. :mecry:


----------



## CampingLED

robmints said:


> I just drilled it out with a 23/32 drill. Ended up about 18.2mm. I have read and read and can't figure out if I should have gotten 18650's or 18670's. But I could not find 18670's or much info on them so I bought the aw 18650's that say they are regulated. But I thought the 2mm difference between the 650's and the 670's was some kind of regulating wafer in the 670's. So I have no idea, just hope I don't blow up. There is so much info here the search function is near impossible to use, I feel like I should have hired a guide to lead me through the maze of CPF.
> 
> Thanks for looking out for me kramer5150, I can use all the help I can get. And I appreciate it too.


 
You may have mixed the numbers up and were probably looking for 1*7*670 batteries. With a 17670 there was no need to drill, but the 18650 gives move capacity and is a more "common" battery. Also see this forum http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=9


----------



## schiesz

What about D26 drop-ins for 1.5-3.0V? I have an M30, and it is incredible, but i'd really like to have something with a lower output for a single alkaline or a single primary. As far as I know, the M30 is as close as you can get for this, but I don't want or need that blinding output all the time. Now that there are quite a few 3P sized options for D26 modules out there, I would think this would be a viable market.


----------



## phantom23

Finally - DX MC-E drop-in ($23) for single Li-Ion.


----------



## fishx65

I'm a little late to the party with these drop-ins but I just ordered a few 11836 R2s from DX. I'm gonna run primarys in an old 6R/6P. What kind of runtime can I expect with 2 primarys? Would it be O.K. to run 3 primary's and a spacer while using the 6R body extender? What would be the lumen and runtime difference between 2 and 3 primarys?

Thanks, FishX


----------



## Wiggle

phantom23 said:


> Finally - DX MC-E drop-in ($23) for single Li-Ion.



I was literally ordering the parts to build a P7 drop-in when this showed up, I'm gonna take a chance on it. Will report back with results once it's here.


----------



## Seiko

Wiggle said:


> I was literally ordering the parts to build a P7 drop-in when this showed up, I'm gonna take a chance on it. Will report back with results once it's here.



Please report back. I hate lights with modes, but might be willing to overlook it for a mc-e.

I'm kinda in the same boat, I just made an order for parts to do a p7 build, but they have already shipped so oh well.


----------



## andreah

Which *R2 5-Mode* is the best for this one?
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18843


----------



## Wiggle

Seiko said:


> Please report back. I hate lights with modes, but might be willing to overlook it for a mc-e.



I'm also not crazy about modes but on the other hand when you have a ridiculous output (say 300+) it kind of ruins my ability to EDC it or to do mundane tasks for long times so a 100 lumen mode would be nice. The strobe however should be eliminated.

I really wish more lights would have mode selection through some other method, kind of like how Fenix seperates its General and Turbo modes.

This might end up being just too much for EDC and be more for fun or weird circumstances, I'll probably use my Q2 5A single mode for must stuff as it should work better with the forward clicky.


----------



## CampingLED

andreah said:


> Which *R2 5-Mode* is the best for this one?
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18843
> Thank you.


 
From the same dealer 14442 is probably the best one. Rather go for the single variable mode 17593.


----------



## kramer5150

CampingLED said:


> From the same dealer 14442 is probably the best one. Rather go for the single variable mode 17593.




x2. I prefer the ramping module myself, although ramping up from low to high is cumbersome, taking 12 seconds. Its not something that can be done quickly. And the module is sensitive to poor switch contacts. If your forward momentary is even slightly intermittent, it will interpret the power interrupt as a mode reset. I had a bunch of grease built up in my M2 switch and it was causing it to mode ramp out of control. drove me nuts.

If DX made a simple low-med-hi module it would sell very well. I modded my DX6090 with a DX7882 board and use it with 18650 cells and a rev clicky... its me fave module as far as UI goes.


----------



## CampingLED

kramer5150 said:


> x2. I prefer the ramping module myself, although ramping up from low to high is cumbersome, taking 12 seconds. Its not something that can be done quickly.


 
I use mine as a single mode, changing modes only once in a few weeks. It is mostly in one of the lowest modes and used nightly when I do not want to disturb anyone else. It replaced my 14442 and I am not looking back. I HATE STROBES LIKE MOST OTHER CPF MEMBERS!!!!!:hairpull::eeew:


----------



## kramer5150

CampingLED said:


> I use mine as a single mode, changing modes only once in a few weeks. It is mostly in one of the lowest modes and used nightly when I do not want to disturb anyone else. It replaced my 14442 and I am not looking back. I HATE STROBES LIKE MOST OTHER CPF MEMBERS!!!!!:hairpull::eeew:



x2 (yet again)... the 17593 has a very useful low-low mode that perfectly preserves night vision and does not disturb others with light pollution. Very few P60 drop ins have this feature.

WFIW... DX17593 Low-low on the left, ~3 lumen minimag solitaire on the right.


----------



## Black Rose

Does anyone actually make a 3/4 mode (low-low/low, medium, high) drop-in?

It seems this is the Holy Grail of P60 drop-ins, yet no one on the manufacturing end seems to be listening.

DX 17593 seems to be the closest thing to it so far.

I thought I read somewhere that Lumens Factory was going to come out with one. Was I dreaming that?


----------



## hojobones

Hi everyone, I just ordered a 17593 dx dropin for a SF 6PD. What battery setup do you recommend? I have 17670s, R123s, and IMR 16340s...thanks for any input!!


----------



## kramer5150

Black Rose said:


> Does anyone actually make a 3/4 mode (low-low/low, medium, high) drop-in?
> 
> It seems this is the Holy Grail of P60 drop-ins, yet no one on the manufacturing end seems to be listening.



(IMHO) a Low-low really is not the holy grail for most CPF members and more "common-folk" alike. The overwhelming desire for more and more current, bigger cells, multi-die emitters, and HID across the forum provides some proof of this.

Because of the above condition no one makes a low-low capable drop in. Which kind of makes sense when you keep in mind the intended weapon mount use of many P60 hosts.

My intent in modding the DX6090 with DX7882, was to see how low I could get it to go. 7882 has a variable adjust pot where you can dial in how much current you want to deliver to the XR-E. I Chose the 6090 as a mod host for the 7882 because its a P4 BIN and therefore is dimmer than a Q binned emitter per given watt of power. With the modded module adjusted to its lowest output it still emits about 10L... hardly a :candle: condition.

my .02


----------



## kramer5150

hojobones said:


> Hi everyone, I just ordered a 17593 dx dropin for a SF 6PD. What battery setup do you recommend? I have 17670s, R123s, and IMR 16340s...thanks for any input!!



Its brightest with 4.5-8.4 Volts. Although it will run off a single 17670.


----------



## Platil

Hi

Is it possible to use wolf-eyes (Wolf-Eyes LRB-168B/169B) rechargeable batteries for my surefire 6P Led and E2D Led Defender?


----------



## hojobones

kramer5150 said:


> Its brightest with 4.5-8.4 Volts. Although it will run off a single 17670.



ok thanks, im guessing the r123s would be better than the IMRs for this as they have a higher capacity right?


----------



## kramer5150

hojobones said:


> ok thanks, im guessing the r123s would be better than the IMRs for this as they have a higher capacity right?


RCR123 cells only have around 500mah capacity, regardless of brand. I have always found surefire primary CR123 to have significantly more capacity than that.


----------



## robmints

Another big thank you to Gene. Between him (M30) and the 18650's my 6pl is about perfect for me and what I use it for. Anybody looking for a good combo, M30 + 18650 makes some nice light.


----------



## aussiebuddha

Has anyone ordered the new P60 MCE module on DX yet?


----------



## outersquare

yeah i know the spec for the DX MC-E says 4.2V max, but anyone try 2 CR123s anyways?


----------



## Hawk600

Hi Folks!
I need some help...

I am looking for the brightest P60 module (other than Malkoffs M30 or Solarforce D26) to run with one RCR123/16340; run on primaries would be a plus.

I have ordered a Solarforce L2+L2M R2 kit that comes with both tubes but the P60 coming in this kit has a voltage range optimized to 2x123 or 18650 and output with one 123/RCR will be dimmer, so I was thinking in buy another module to be used with the shorter tube only.

Do I have any options that could work in this setup? 
Thank you


----------



## schiesz

Hawk600 said:


> Hi Folks!
> I am Kind of lost and need some help
> 
> I am looking for the brightest P60 module for one RCR123/16340; run on primaries would be a plus.



I now have 4 lights that can/will use this same type of module (one being a L2M that is still on the way from china) and highly suggest you get a M30. I have one and it is incredible on a primary and staggering on a RCR. You just simply must have one. Use it for the short body on a primary or RCR, and the big body with a 17670 or 18650. 

My L2M is coming with a D26 that is supposed to work at 3.7V, and when it arrives i'll let you know how it is (and if it works on primaries), but definately check out a M30. I would get three more but can't justify it when I have one (currently in my new G1) and another module already coming (the solarforce). I still have M30's in both my 3P's right now, but one of them will almost definately get replaced with another M30 very soon (why do all of the M30's i've ever seen have such a bad beam?).


----------



## Hawk600

Thank you Schiesz
I believe M30s are the best option in the market right now; however I was trying to find cheaper alternatives.
Good that you have the Solarforce D26 module coming. I will wait your feedback about brightness and primaries capability.
I wish we had some bean shots comparing the Solarforce D26 with other one cell lights  ......
Regards


----------



## kosPap

Hawk600 

don't forget the Dereelight 1.2 amp module.

who sells that Solarforce L2+L2M R2 kit?


----------



## schiesz

I've only seen the kit on that one auction site.


----------



## Hawk600

Thanks kosPap
The Deerelight 3SD it is basically what I am looking (2.8-4.2V), however they mention 18650 or 17670 batteries so I am not sure if it will work fine with 123 RCRs.

I purchased this Solarforce kit on eBay. I know is big no no here, but the price was so cheap that worthed the risk.

It comes with the following:


1. Solarforce L2M mini Grey Pocket flashlight Body
2. Solarforce L2 Grey Original black 18650/CR123A flashlight Body
3. Solarforce R2 300 Lumens Cree bulb
4. Solarforce L2 switch for Surefire 6P & 9P, G&P Flashlight
5. Solarforce Tactical Head for Surefire 6P & 9P, G&P Flashlight
6. Solarforce Stainless Steel Lanyard Ring
7. Solarforce Plastic original collector's package

Not bad for $29.90 shipped! 

Besides I thought would be nice share this with my fellow cpfer's, I didn't want promote an ebay merchant here; so please do a search for "L2+L2M DYI R2" and you will be able to find it easily.


----------



## schiesz

Hawk600 said:


> Thank you Schiesz
> I believe M30s are the best option in the market right now; however I was trying to find cheaper alternatives.
> Good that you have the Solarforce D26 module coming. I will wait your feedback about brightness and primaries capability.
> I wish we had some bean shots comparing the Solarforce D26 with other one cell lights  ......
> Regards



I've been looking for cheaper alternatives as well, but i'm starting to think that the new M30's just can't be beat. I don't know if my older M30 is the same as the newer ones because mine seems to have the same output regardless of primary or Li Ion cell used. As far as the tests, I'll have it all up for you guys as soon as the slow boat from China gets here with my Solarforce D26 module. 

I also just had a cheap drop-in give out on me tonight so I rebuilt it with a DX converter for 1.5-4.2V. So far the output on this on is really good considering I think this was a Cree P2-P4, but it is drawing 1.2A off a primary compared to the 0.85A the malkoff M30 pulls. So now I just need 1-2 more drop-ins for 3V and i'll be set


----------



## kosPap

Hawk600 said:


> Thanks kosPap
> The Deerelight 3SD it is basically what I am looking (2.8-4.2V), however they mention 18650 or 17670 batteries so I am not sure if it will work fine with 123 RCRs.
> 
> Besides I thought would be nice share this with my fellow cpfer's, I didn't want promote an ebay merchant here; so please do a search for "L2+L2M DYI R2" and you will be able to find it easily.





DANG

I paid 32 bucks for the two bodies and head!!! this is some offer, you got to post it in the good deals forum...when you receive it would you mind informing if 18650 will go down the single cell tube? (I will be making a 2x18500 light using an 18650 extender)

Reafarding the derrelight module I do not see why it shouldn't work with a 16340 RCR. (I am no expert only my point seems reasonable) You get less runtime but comparative output tests with my other dereelight modules show an slight edge for the RCR.

See this


----------



## DHart

How is the Dereelight MC-E lamp assembly as a P60 drop-in? Anyone here have one?


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

Just tried 123 on a 3SD. Acted flakey but did put out some light.

3.6v makes it act right and get bright.


----------



## DHart

PlayboyJoeShmoe said:


> Just tried 123 on a 3SD. Acted flakey but did put out some light.
> 
> 3.6v makes it act right and get bright.



That's the MC-E, right? I understand it is designed for (ideally) two rechargeable cells (around 8.4v ideal?) but it sounds like it can do well with a single rechargeable, like an IMR18650 or an IMR16340? 

Can you estimate how the much difference there is with the Dereelight MC-E and a single rechargeable vs. two rechargeables?


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

No, mine is 3SD Q5.

I wouldn't think MC-E would be any better on a 123.


----------



## Rat6P

With the Lumens Factory D26-LED Special 3.6 volt

Does anybody know the actual minimum(if it has protection) and the absolute maximum voltage?

I've read elsewhere it's tuned for 3.0-3.6v, but what is the max...4.2v or 4.5v or st else?

Also could it run safely on a single primary cr123?


Edit: Word back from LF "The driver is set at 2.4 to 4.2V."


----------



## Superdave

I looked real quick and didn't see this posted yet..

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=7114

I made my own but this should be the highest output D26 module out there.. easily 400L out the front (if it's direct drive).


----------



## DHart

Rat6P said:


> With the Lumens Factory D26-LED Special 3.6 volt
> 
> Does anybody know the actual minimum(if it has protection) and the absolute maximum voltage?
> 
> I've read elsewhere it's tuned for 3.0-3.6v, but what is the max...4.2v or 4.5v or st else?
> 
> Also could it run safely on a single primary cr123?



Rat... from Lighthound:

"D26-LED 3.7V Special, High Output Single Mode LED Reflector Module, Selected Tint.

(3.6V Constant Output) - Single 17670 or 18650 battery ONLY"

I would definitely use this with a 3.7v rechargeable 16340, 17670, 17500, 18500, 18650 etc. (4.2v off charger) without hesitating. When lamps are rated for 3.7v rechargeables (17670, 18650, etc.), it's known that they will be 4.2v off the charger). So a 3.7v rechargeable (when at 4.2v off the charger) should be fine... of course, if you wish, this could be confirmed by LF or LH. Also, if you use AW protected rechargeables, you will have the protection provided by the cell. It will run fine on a RCR123 (16340) but the runtime will be much shorter than with the recommended 17670 or 18650.


----------



## DHart

Superdave said:


> I looked real quick and didn't see this posted yet..
> 
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=7114
> 
> I made my own but this should be the highest output D26 module out there.. easily 400L out the front (if it's direct drive).



Superdave... that could be an awesome drop-in! Great price too. Anyone have one of these? How is ordering from KD? Reliable? Good customer service with problems?


----------



## CampingLED

Superdave said:


> I looked real quick and didn't see this posted yet..
> 
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=7114
> 
> I made my own but this should be the highest output D26 module out there.. easily 400L out the front (if it's direct drive).


 
Looks like the same module on the DX list (currently last on the list). Pitty it is not M-bin. Holding back on my MC-E P60 drop-in purchase till M-bin is available *without* strobe modes.


----------



## outersquare

i just want one you can run off 2 CR123s


----------



## DHart

CampingLED said:


> Looks like the same module on the DX list (currently last on the list). Pitty it is not M-bin. Holding back on my MC-E P60 drop-in purchase till M-bin is available *without* strobe modes.



Camping... what is the bin on the offered one? What does it look like? And what does the M bin look like?


----------



## Rat6P

Thanks DHart,

I admit I was wondering why LH doesnt say 16340's are fine. Thinking about it now my M30 pulls about 1.2A from a 16340, so this should be fine as well.

The shorter runtimes with 16340's doesnt bother me. I like the profile and they are rechargeable afterall

I still wonder what the max input allowed is though.




DHart said:


> Rat... from Lighthound:
> 
> "D26-LED 3.7V Special, High Output Single Mode LED Reflector Module, Selected Tint.
> 
> (3.6V Constant Output) - Single 17670 or 18650 battery ONLY"
> 
> I would definitely use this with a 3.7v rechargeable 16340, 17670, 17500, 18500, 18650 etc. (4.2v off charger) without hesitating. When lamps are rated for 3.7v rechargeables (17670, 18650, etc.), it's known that they will be 4.2v off the charger). So a 3.7v rechargeable (when at 4.2v off the charger) should be fine... of course, if you wish, this could be confirmed by LF or LH. Also, if you use AW protected rechargeables, you will have the protection provided by the cell. It will run fine on a RCR123 (16340) but the runtime will be much shorter than with the recommended 17670 or 18650.




Edit: The driver is set at 2.4 to 4.2V.


----------



## CampingLED

DHart said:


> Camping... what is the bin on the offered one? What does it look like? And what does the M bin look like?


 
According to the sellers it is K bin. No visual difference between M and K bin except for light output.


----------



## DHart

CampingLED said:


> According to the sellers it is K bin. No visual difference between M and K bin except for light output.



Any idea what difference there would be in output?


----------



## CampingLED

Here is the link to the CREE MC-E B&L datasheet


----------



## Superdave

The one i built is using a M bin direct drive. I've ran it on a single 18650 as well as off of 2 cr123's. It is brighter on the 123's of course but it gets warm pretty quick. 

If the KD one is using the same old Cree reflector used on the Q5 then it probably has a donut hole at a distance, up close it's nice.. although way too bright. 

I'll see if i can post up a beamshot of mine.


----------



## Superdave

I think this shows just how bright the MC-E is...

I used my 5MP Kodak camera on auto with the flash turned off. 

Here is a Surefire P60L on 2 fresh cr123's:







Here is a Cree Q5 800mA dropin






and here is the MC-E in the same Z2 host on the same 2 batteries






you can see the dark spot in the middle, but outside where it really counts this thing is nuts. :thumbsup:


----------



## NigelBond

That's an insane difference there superdave. I understand the original p60L only claims 80 lumens though. Have you got any other dropins that you could comapare it to?


----------



## Superdave

NigelBond said:


> That's an insane difference there superdave. I understand the original p60L only claims 80 lumens though. Have you got any other dropins that you could comapare it to?


 

yes, got a few laying around. However, I measured both in my "integrating cylinder" (there is a thread out there somewhere on it). The P60L came in at 2170 lux (80lm) and the MC-E measured 18,100 which is roughly 670lm.

Running it on 2 123's is pushing it pretty hard, on a single protected 18650 i got 13,750 lux (509lm)

I'll snap another pic with a generic 800mA Q5 dropin tonight.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

I LOVE donuts!!!

But HATE donut holes!!!

I have tweaked and tweaked to get good beams from my 3 P7 and one MC-E.

But these things DO put out LOTS of light!


----------



## DHart

PlayboyJoeShmoe said:


> I LOVE donuts!!!
> 
> But HATE donut holes!!!
> 
> I have tweaked and tweaked to get good beams from my 3 P7 and one MC-E.
> 
> But these things DO put out LOTS of light!



Have your tweaks eliminated the donut holes with the MC-E? I've been thinking of picking up one of the DX MC-E lamp assemblies, but am holding back thinking I might get a donut hole with it and not knowing if that can be eliminated. How would you do that with the DX MC-E lamp assembly?


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

All my stuff has regular reflectors, not screw together modules.

But on a few of my Q5 or R2 modules "spacers" or o-rings effect beam changes and I should think similar actions would have results.

Or maybe use some loctite when you find nirvana....


----------



## Superdave

I was able to get rid of the donut hole with my old P7 dropin by unscrewing it out 1/2 turn.. but the MC-E is more stubborn. I bet a slight tweak of the reflector shape would fix it though..


----------



## Superdave

I edited my post with the pic of the Q5 module.


----------



## kosPap

Fizz753

an update of the KD links is in order:

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=6436
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=6435
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5564
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5236
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5091
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5086
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5085


----------



## Fizz753

kosPap said:


> Fizz753
> 
> an update of the KD links is in order:
> 
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=6436
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=6435
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5564
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5236
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5091
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5086
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5085



Thanks! Got them added, also did a link check and price fixes on the DX and Kai dropins. Will take a look at the others later when I am not so cross eyed after work.


----------



## johns

Superdave said:


> I looked real quick and didn't see this posted yet..
> 
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=7114
> 
> I made my own but this should be the highest output D26 module out there.. easily 400L out the front (if it's direct drive).


 
Can I use 2 RCR123s with this - I'd like to try it in my C2.


----------



## Wiggle

johns said:


> Can I use 2 RCR123s with this - I'd like to try it in my C2.



I'd think that would be pushing things too hard.


----------



## Superdave

Yep, i'd only use it on 1 18650 or 17650.


----------



## kramer5150

johns said:


> Can I use 2 RCR123s with this - I'd like to try it in my C2.



No...


----------



## johns

Another noobie question then - if I want to use this with my Surefire C2 - which battery should I buy (which will fit into my C2 without boring it out)
in place of the 2 Rcr123s?
Thanks!!


----------



## Superdave

johns said:


> Another noobie question then - if I want to use this with my Surefire C2 - which battery should I buy (which will fit into my C2 without boring it out)
> in place of the 2 Rcr123s?
> Thanks!!


 
I'd pick up 2 of these:
http://www.lighthound.com/AW-17500-Protected-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery_p_99.html

and 1 of these:
http://www.lighthound.com/Ultrafire...3-37-volt-Lithium-Battery-Charger_p_2279.html


----------



## kramer5150

Superdave said:


> I'd pick up 2 of these:
> http://www.lighthound.com/AW-17500-Protected-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery_p_99.html
> 
> and 1 of these:
> http://www.lighthound.com/Ultrafire...3-37-volt-Lithium-Battery-Charger_p_2279.html



He will need a single cell extension to fit 2x17500 cells.


----------



## kramer5150

johns said:


> Another noobie question then - if I want to use this with my Surefire C2 - which battery should I buy (which will fit into my C2 without boring it out)
> in place of the 2 Rcr123s?
> Thanks!!



The only cell that will fit the C2 is a 1x17670 cell. But thats a 3.7V setup, so you will need to pick a drop in module thats optimal for that Vin. Malkoff M30 would be my recommendation. The DX 11074 would be my recommendation if you are on a tight budget. selfbuilt compared the 11074 to some of the better 18650 lights and it goes toe to toe with them... here


----------



## johns

Thanks for your help - can't wait to try it out!


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

Yes 17670 cell makes a LOT more sense than 17500 + spacer!


----------



## Flashfirstask?later

Superdave said:


> I'd pick up 2 of these:
> http://www.lighthound.com/AW-17500-Protected-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery_p_99.html


I think you mean 1 x 17670 as 2x17500 is about equivalent of 3xCR123


----------



## Superdave

Flashfirstask?later said:


> I think you mean 1 x 17670 as 2x17500 is about equivalent of 3xCR123




Aah, oops. Yes i ment to paste this link..

http://www.lighthound.com/AW-17670-Protected-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery_p_101.html

Sorry for the mixup. I said to buy 2 so he'd have a spare charged and ready to go.


----------



## Ryanrpm

Superdave said:


> I looked real quick and didn't see this posted yet..
> 
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=7114
> 
> I made my own but this should be the highest output D26 module out there.. easily 400L out the front (if it's direct drive).



I just purchased this today....so when it comes in, I'll do a mini review for you guys. I plan on using it in my Solarforce L2M with a single AW 3.7v IMR16340.


----------



## DHart

Ryanrpm said:


> I just purchased this today....so when it comes in, I'll do a mini review for you guys. I plan on using it in my Solarforce L2M with a single AW 3.7v IMR16340.



http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDeta...ProductId=7114


Ryan.... I am so tempted to buy one of those MC-E's, just don't have any feedback to go on. Looking forward to your review!


----------



## johns

I realized that it was the 17670 that Superdave meant - going to get the MC-E to go with it - Thanks guys!!


----------



## kramer5150

Ryanrpm said:


> I just purchased this today....so when it comes in, I'll do a mini review for you guys. I plan on using it in my Solarforce L2M with a single AW 3.7v IMR16340.



I played around with a co-workers (DX version) and its VERY bright for a $23 drop in. You could spend 1.5-2 times this much and get noticeably less lumen output from other builders. The low output mode was very impressive too. Its still in the 100+ lumen range.

My assumption based on a quick broad daylight demo was in the 300++ Lumen range for high. IMHO its a great module... really nice beam with some Cree-rings. so white wall hunters will not like this aspect. Color tint was on the colder side too (at least for the DX version). When my co worker and I were playing around with the module, we noted some chunky-sloppy soldering between the DC board and brass pill. He accidentally pulled the solder off the DC board when removing the large spring (!!). So... DX build quality still leaves a lot to be desired. Fortunately, its a simple fix... no need to RMA it back IMHO.

It looks like DX updated the reflector for this MC-E module. I was expecting an XR-E module reflector drilled out differently for the MC-E.... but it looked at a glance like DX chose to re-design it. One way to confirm this would be to screw an XR-E pill (11836, 6090, 17593...etc...) into the MC-E reflector and vise versa.... to see if the parabolic curve of the reflectors gives different beam patterns.

I was surprised how concentrated the beam hot spot is for a 4-die emitter. The DX-MCE has a tighter spot concentration than the Malkoff P7, which has virtually no hot spot and really is a wall of flood.

I was thinking about it last night, regarding those insulating ridges DX decided to mill out of the reflector barrel. If you really wanted to maximize thermal conductivity you could fill those ridges with thermal epoxy and then file/dremel it smooth. Drop it into a 6P or L2 host with a little foil wrap action and you'll have a cooler running LED.

IMHO the MC-E paired with a solarforce L2-18650 would make an OUTSTANDING $50 budget setup... capable of out-gunning other lights costing 2-3x as much.


----------



## Wiggle

More DX MC-E drop-in impressions here:

I'm still waiting for my P60 host but I found I could use this by pressing it onto the top of my TR801 body, however since it is not properly heatsinked at all doing this, I am only running for 10-15 seconds max at a time. Regardless I've got some thoughts on it.

-Floody, but not as floody as expected. Similar beam pattern to MTE 5-mode 16092 which is surprising considering how much smaller the P60 drop-in's reflector is. There is a definite hot-spot here compared to the other P7/MC-E drop-ins I've seen

-Output is very good, much higher than my L2D turbo but a noticeable amount dimmer than MTE P7 on fully charged batteries (there is some debate as to whether that MTE is acutally regulated though so the outputs may be closer when the batteries are at a lower working voltage).

-Estimated output: 350 lumens high, 125 lumens low

-Tint: slightly cool

-Seems to remember last mode you were on

-Some rings and faint donut hole visible on walls, but seems fine when used for typical purposes.


----------



## Ryanrpm

I actually bought the slightly more expensive one from Kaidomain....not the one from DX.

I think they are identical, but jumped for the KD one anyways since I haven't read much on here about it.


----------



## schiesz

Hawk600 said:


> Good that you have the Solarforce D26 module coming. I will wait your feedback about brightness and primaries capability.
> I wish we had some bean shots comparing the Solarforce D26 with other one cell lights



I got the Solarforce L2M with single mode D26 module today and it doesn't work with a primary. Must be a Buck rather than buck/boost converter. Its a bit brighter than my cheap homemade D26 with a cree P4 and 1.5v-4.5v buck/boost converter.

I'll try to get some beamshots tonight. Here are my current single cell D26 modules:

M30
Solarforce single mode
homemade P4 with buck/boost
MC-E multi mode by nailbender


----------



## schiesz

Ok, here are some beamshots I took with my single cell D26 modules (and a few others).


 

The lights, in order of appearance:
Solarforce P2M with Nailbender MC-E module
3P with M30
3P with Solarforce D26 single speed
G1 with homemade buck/boost and Cree P4
Dorcy mod with KL1 TIR optic and Cree P4
Nightcore D10 R2 on high



Nailbender MC-E




M30




Solarforce single speed




Homemade buck/boost with cree P4




Dorcy mod




Nitecore D10 R2




I included the last two just for a comparison.

Animated:


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

MC-E rather gets with the program eh?


----------



## orbital

kramer5150 said:


> I played around with a co-workers (DX version) and its VERY bright for a $23 drop in. You could spend 1.5-2 times this much and get noticeably less lumen output from other builders. The low output mode was very impressive too. Its still in the 100+ lumen range........
> 
> 
> It looks like DX updated the reflector for this MC-E module. I was expecting an XR-E module reflector drilled out differently for the MC-E.... but it looked at a glance like DX chose to re-design it. One way to confirm this would be to screw an XR-E pill (11836, 6090, 17593...etc...) into the MC-E reflector and vise versa.... to see if the parabolic curve of the reflectors gives different beam patterns................
> 
> 
> IMHO the MC-E paired with a solarforce L2-18650 would make an OUTSTANDING $50 budget setup... capable of out-gunning other lights costing 2-3x as much.



+

To chime in on the DX MC-E drop-in,...I have to +1 the things already said.

*It is a damn bright P60 drop-in!!!!*

Really like the new parabolic reflector, (hopefully DX will sell them soon in the DIY section) like to use these with some other 'drops.
The beam pattern surprised me, its close to the Wolf-Eyes Fox1, which was very unique. Tint is coolish.

Throw is medium, but the amount of light within its beam is big,...big, big. 
Its bounce test is ridiculous..





I wrapped the reflector with 6~7 turns of copper wire to add material & heatsinking proprieties.... now it's _*real*_ connected with the head/bezel of my older HuntLight.
(actually, just barely fit back together)

Memory is for 1 minute,..so after that, it starts on High. Heads up.

Overall, I give it a big :thumbsup: for an inexpensive drop-in.


----------



## chris626

hi my name is chris ive been reading the fourms a lot for info in upgrading my surefire 6p and just regestered. right now i have a wolfeyes drop in "digital cree LED HO 3.7v-6.0v" is on the label i believe it is rated at 170 lumens. and i am using 1 17670 AW Li-ion battery. i just ordered one of the DX M-CE dropins that are being discussed. i noticed that on hi the dropin uses 2800mA, but my battery is rated at only1600mA will running the DX drop in be too tough on my battery? Will the preformence of the M-CE be effected?


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

Welcome Chris!!!

I think it just means it won't run very long.

Some body that allows for an 18650 of 2400 or more would get closer to an hour.


----------



## kramer5150

chris626 said:


> hi my name is chris ive been reading the fourms a lot for info in upgrading my surefire 6p and just regestered. right now i have a wolfeyes drop in "digital cree LED HO 3.7v-6.0v" is on the label i believe it is rated at 170 lumens. and i am using 1 17670 AW Li-ion battery. i just ordered one of the DX M-CE dropins that are being discussed. i noticed that on hi the dropin uses 2800mA, but my battery is rated at only1600mA will running the DX drop in be too tough on my battery? Will the preformence of the M-CE be effected?



Assuming the ONLY difference between your 17670 and a good 18650 is the capacity, then the only difference should be run time.

I have some Japanese panasonic 17670s and some Samsung ICR18650 and I can tell a difference in brightness, with my 1350mah XR-E modules. So, I think there's more to it than merely capacity and run time.


----------



## chris626

o ok... so ill just get a lower runtime with the 17670. has anyone tried this drop in with a 17670? if so do you have an approx. run time?

o and thanks for the welcome! its nice to be able to write back!!:twothumbs

ohy.... my friends are already sayin ive spent too mugh on my light....


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

It will only get worse Chris! (re: Friends)


----------



## fishx65

Just got my first drop in for a very old 6R/P. I picked up the R2 module from DX. It's much brighter then the P61 I've always used and I'm pretty sure this 6P will never see another incan bulb. The extended runtime is gonna be more then welcome! I did notice that both the R2s I picked up have a much cooler color then any of my other XREs. Think I might put the extender on and see what happens when I run three primary 123s. Will this give me more runtime?


----------



## Wiggle

My L2 and L2M body finally came in so I could try out my drop ins. Here are my comments and if I can get ahold of a camera I'll get some beamshots, I'm doing runtime tests as well and will add in the results as they come:

*Solarforce R2:* Mine came with the single mode output which I wasn't expecting but I prefer. Output is very good with both one Li-Ion or two. The beam is pretty throw oriented with decent spill, there is some moderate ringiness in the beam though. Cooler tone. Runtime is about 45 minutes on Trustfire 880mAh 16340 cell.

*DX Q2 5A:* Nice warm-ish color, good output but not as high as the R2 (which is to be expected). Good throw, but not as tight as the Solarfroce R2. However the beam is cleaner with only mild ringiness slightly noticeable. Seems brighter on 2 cells but still good on 1 but I didn't really focus on that so I could be wrong. Runtime is about 40 minutes on Trustfire 880mAh 16340 cell.

*DX MC-E:* Big output, floody but still a defined beam compared to others I've seen. Beam is a little ugly with some rings and a small donut that is noticeable on some walls but not in general use. Also has a lower 125 lumen-ish mode (which is nice to have) and a fast strobe (not a fan). Coolish colour tone. Seems to be one cell only, however I did accidentally turn it on with 2 cells for about 2 seconds before realizing, and no

The amount of lego possibilities is pretty cool but my favorite combo seem to be: L2 18650 with MC-E for output and L2M with Q2 5A for nice jacket light.


----------



## Fizz753

( We interrupt this thread to bring you breaking news! )

Just a quick note to let you know the list has been updated with the drop in's that Battery Junction offers. And as always if you see something that needs added, changed or anything else just let me know. It's pretty much impossible for me to keep an eye on every source out there. 

Thanks everyone!

( We now return you to your regularly scheduled forum thread already in progress. )


----------



## kosPap

hahaha! good job


----------



## Ryanrpm

Wiggle said:


> *Solarforce R2:* Mine came with the single mode output which I wasn't expecting but I prefer. Output is very good with both one Li-Ion or two. The beam is pretty throw oriented with decent spill, there is some moderate ringiness in the beam though. Cooler tone. Runtime is about 45 minutes on Trustfire 880mAh 16340 cell.



I did a runtime test with mine(L2M with AW IMR16340)....and got 65min runtime. Did it 2 times in a row to be sure....seems like it is regulated because all of a sudden the light went out.


----------



## Wiggle

Ryanrpm said:


> I did a runtime test with mine(L2M with AW IMR16340)....and got 65min runtime. Did it 2 times in a row to be sure....seems like it is regulated because all of a sudden the light went out.




It seemed like it had dimmed when i ended my timer but I could be wrong, I'll do another run to see how long it runs til shutdown. Those AW cells probably have a little more juice than the Trustfires too. 

Edit: Just ran again, got 55 mins seems about right since the cells aren't as good as AW probably.


----------



## Wiggle

Current Tests for some Drop-ins:

DX Q2:
1 cell - 0.92A
2 cell - 0.54A

Solarforce 1M R2:
1 cell - 0.60A
2 cell - 0.65A
3 cell - 0.45A

DX MC-E:
1 cell - 1.4A (high), 0.5A (low), 0.95A (strobe)

I tried two cells for a second and it quickly went up to 8A so I cancelled that before any could occur.
These readings may be a bit lower from the meter impedance but hopefully they are useful. It seems that the Solarforce R2 will not get full output on 1 cell. Trustfire 2500 18650s were tested and also Ultrafire 16340s, results were practically identical.


----------



## lewong

I received my DX 21037 3-mode MC-E drop-in today. With a Trustfire 18650, I measured 1.654A on full power with my Fluke 115. I put it in a bored 6P body. With the spring on the module, the gap between the head and the body is about 2 mm. The product description calls it a "Copper Heatsink Base;" it looks like brass to me.

For comparison, my modded Ultrafire C2 with a P7 (running direct drive following jirik_cz’s post) pulls 2.85A with a fresh battery. My Malkoff M30, with a Trustfire 17670 pulls 1.765A.


















Comparison beamshots on my flickr slide show:

1. DealExtreme SKU 21037 Cree MC-E LED 3-Mode 410-Lumen Drop-in (Trustfire 18650 battery)
2. Malkoff M30 drop-in (Trustfire 17670 battery)
3. Modded Ultrafire C2 with SSC P7, direct drive (Trustfire 18650 battery)

I aimed each light at the scrawny tree against the fence. The MC-E drop-in has more flood and less of a hot spot than the Malkoff M30. The P7 just gives me the feeling that I am seeing everything.


----------



## NigelBond

That dx mc-e looks dissapointing now. 1.4 or 1.65 on high is much lower than I was hoping for. The descriptioin page claims 2.8A on high. I ordered an 18650 body for my solarforce L2 because I was going to purchase the mc-e drop-in but now i think i should wait and see if anything better comes along.


----------



## kramer5150

NigelBond said:


> That dx mc-e looks dissapointing now. 1.4 or 1.65 on high is much lower than I was hoping for. The descriptioin page claims 2.8A on high. I ordered an 18650 body for my solarforce L2 because I was going to purchase the mc-e drop-in but now i think i should wait and see if anything better comes along.



The other way to look at it is the DX MC-E emits ~380L while _only _drawing 1.65A. So it will run longer and cooler than a DD-P7 module, comparable run time (slightly longer) to an M30, while emitting more floody Lumens.

I for one was very impressed with the DX MC-E briefly comparing it to drop ins costing $55-$120.

*EDIT*
On low it emits 150L. That doesn't seem like much, but it does so while only drawing 500mah. Very good output/draw IMHO. Compared to an RC-N3-Q5 which needs 700mah to emit ~140L. My DIY modules draw about 1100mah to emit slightly less than an M60... ~185L would be my estimate.


----------



## Superdave

that's pretty low current draw for a MC-E.. might be a driver issue. 


I've ran mine at over 5A with no angry blue.. it's direct driven by 2 123's right now and pulls around 4A depending on how fresh the batteries are. 


I'm putting together another one right now, the epoxy is drying but the pill is going in my G&P turbo head. If it'll thread into a regular D26 reflector i'll post up a beamshot of it.


----------



## Wiggle

I've posted some beamshots in this thread: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/227388

Included are the Solarforce R2, DX Q2 5A and DX MC-E drop ins.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

It bears mention yet again...

The Dereelight 3SD 4.2V module really shines on a Li-Ion (16340 AW cell in my case in a Solarforce L2M)


----------



## Phaserburn

Quick question... what (besides SF) lights accept Malkoff dropin without using a spring, i.e. make full thermal contact with the host body? Does the Solarforce L2?


----------



## kosPap

Phaseburn I know what you thinking, I was about to suggest caution to a new member that will amte a MLKF to a SLF

I just received a Solarforce single cell and a Trustife 14500 P60 dropin compatible....

They both have the module socket surefire like but I cannot furnish any measurements or testing with a Malkoff

In more detail the L2 mini needs the outer ring sans one turn to ful contact...Maybe in the next days furnish you with a pic?

BUT CAUTION! as far as I remember the 2-cell L2 has a cylindrical socket

Then the Ultrafire WF-501 may be good enough but i cannot locate the pic in my imageshak account..you might also like to see this: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/204636


----------



## Black Rose

PlayboyJoeShmoe said:


> It bears mention yet again...
> 
> The Dereelight 3SD 4.2V module really shines on a Li-Ion (16340 AW cell in my case in a Solarforce L2M)


I've been griping that no ones make a nice 3-mode drop-in, and there were two of them on page 1 the entire time 

Going to add that to my wish list.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

It really does get BRIGHT on an AW cell in my L2M (The Dereelight 3SD Q5)


----------



## michiganstud

Wiggle said:


> *Solarforce R2:* Mine came with the single mode output which I wasn't expecting but I prefer. Output is very good with both one Li-Ion or two. The beam is pretty throw oriented with decent spill, there is some moderate ringiness in the beam though. Cooler tone. Runtime is about 45 minutes on Trustfire 880mAh 16340 cell.
> 
> *DX MC-E:* Big output, floody but still a defined beam compared to others I've seen. Beam is a little ugly with some rings and a small donut that is noticeable on some walls but not in general use. Also has a lower 125 lumen-ish mode (which is nice to have) and a fast strobe (not a fan). Coolish colour tone. Seems to be one cell only, however I did accidentally turn it on with 2 cells for about 2 seconds before realizing, and no


 
I may have made a mistake on my recent purchase. I did some reading over the weekend, but I didn't get this far in the third posting of this thread!

From what I read the R2 was the brightest dropin since currently I am running the Q5 bulb in my Surefire 6P with 2x 3.7v ultrafires.

So I purchased the R2 bulb from DX (thinking it will be brigther) BEFORE I read further in this thread. So here's my question.....

I am a LEO and a good light is key for me - is the MC-E a better bulb than the R2? Does it have a better throw? Throw is definately important to me as well as flood.

I saw the comparison shots but what about distance? Which bulb has better throw?


Thanks guys.


----------



## DHart

Michiganstud... given you are in LE and this is a critically important tool for you I would pass on the MC-E. It won't give you the throw that you are likely to need. While the inexpensive Solarforce Q5 or R2 drop-in lamp modules would serve you well, they are clearly below the performance you would get from a Malkoff M60 or M30. 

If I were you I would go directly to a Malkoff M60. You will get slightly brighter output than a Solarforce Q5 or R2 drop-in, a much better beam with nice smooth transition from central beam to bright spill and the best quality unit in manufacture and materials. Just spend the $55 and get the best there is. Malkoff M60. Runs great on 1 to 3 primaries, also on two rechargeables, and on a single rechargeable as well - with good output under all these conditions. You will get the longest running and best overall performance driving the M60 with a single 18650 protected cell, which will run in regulation from 4.2v down to 3.8v then run direct drive with gradually diminishing output for a couple more hours at least (so you don't suffer a sudden loss of light at the WRONG time!). In your profession, I think anything less is a major compromise.

A P7 or MC-E would be great for house clearing, but not so great outdoors at longer distances. The best P7/MC-E I've seen for outdoors that is still compact, handy and inexpensive is the MTE SSC P7 (see it at DealExtreme.com). That would be a great light to have along with a 6P hosted M60 lamp module.


----------



## Wiggle

I love DX stuff as much as anyone else but for law enforcement I would probably spend the little extra and get a Malkoff. If my DX light cuts out on me it's an inconvenience but for you it could be alot worse. 

The MC-E has alot of output. Even at a moderate drive level it is throwing out about twice the lumens of the typical R2/Q5 lights but may not have enough throw for your use. The big rage now is neutral and warm tint which is also available from Malkoff. I did some beamshot comparisons including 3 P60 drop ins and another light with a Q3 5A emitter, check it out https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/227388


----------



## Phaserburn

kosPap said:


> Phaseburn I know what you thinking, I was about to suggest caution to a new member that will amte a MLKF to a SLF
> 
> I just received a Solarforce single cell and a Trustife 14500 P60 dropin compatible....
> 
> They both have the module socket surefire like but I cannot furnish any measurements or testing with a Malkoff
> 
> In more detail the L2 mini needs the outer ring sans one turn to ful contact...Maybe in the next days furnish you with a pic?
> 
> BUT CAUTION! as far as I remember the 2-cell L2 has a cylindrical socket
> 
> Then the Ultrafire WF-501 may be good enough but i cannot locate the pic in my imageshak account..you might also like to see this: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/204636


 
Thanks. I have a Cabela's XPG 6P Clone I may try...


----------



## ionizedsky

*Need help finding my perfect P60 type led*

This is my first post, but I have been reading lots of previous and current posts. I am trying to find the best P60 type led bulb for my surefire flashlights. I have tried to educate myself first but damn there is so many threads that it is hard to figure out.

So I will just ask ya'll what your opinions are.

I am looking for a led that will give me great throw( maybe a hundred yards plus) and at least stay powered for about an hour and half on a 2 rcr123. It needs to have a good hotspot, but also some good spill for average room sized clearing. Brighter the better for me. All opinions appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## old4570

*Re: Need help finding my perfect P60 type led*

R2 - 5 mode - sku.13658 More flood , still throws ok .
sku.17593 ? sku.14442 ?


----------



## Ninjaz7

*Re: Need help finding my perfect P60 type led*

welcome...In my experience (many $$$ spent) I'd say you can't go wrong with a malkoff m60 or a m30w(google gene malkoff for site for specs).I still grab my m60 on first reaction to look in the backyard at night,gl :thumbsup:.


----------



## buickid

*Re: Need help finding my perfect P60 type led*

I agree with Ninjaz7, Gene Malkoff makes some excellent P60 drop ins. His site is a little confusing for a newcomer, at least to me, so heres a rundown.
M30:Runs on 1-5V, such as a CR123, or one rechargable lithium cell, or 1-4 Ni-MH batteries.
M60: Runs up to 9V, drops out of regulation at 3.8V (gets dimmer). Suitable for one or two Lithium rechargables, or up to 7 Ni-MH cells.
M60 MC-E: Same as M60, but uses the Cree MC-E Quad-die LED. Very bright but doesn't throw as much as the M30/60. Think "Wall of Light". Also see below.

In addition, the letter F can be appended to the M30, and F, L, LL can be appended to the M60. F stands for flood, which will replace the 8 degree optic with a 20 degree optic. L stands for a lower-output unit with greater runtime, and LL for even lower, with even greater runtime. There is also the letter W, which uses a warm-tint LED, more appealing to the eye for some.

For 2x123s and long runtime, my suggestion might be a M60WL(F)

The Malkoff site has more specs, and Gene can custom build things that might not be listed on the site, so send him an e-mail or a call.
Hope this helps!
-Trevor


----------



## chris626

I just got my DX M-CE. im running it in my 6p with a 17670 AW cell. Its bright but i think i was just expecting more. i am happy with it. the hole in the middle isnt even noticeable when you use it. it does light up a lot though.:twothumbs


----------



## Spence

*Re: Need help finding my perfect P60 type led*

Go to deal extreme.com and check them out. I've bought drop ins for my SureFires there and I've had good luck with them. I just bought a couple of Q5 R2 LED drop ins for my G3/9P and 6P/G2 and they are really bright with excelent throw of 100 yards and they were under $20. They offer both single setting and multi mode drop ins. Since he ships from China, it takes a little longer to get your purchase but
it's free so that takes some of the sting out of it.


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: Need help finding my perfect P60 type led*

@ionizedsky

The rule of 2 applies... Lumen brightness, run time, small size. You can have any TWO, to get all 3 something will need to be sacrificed.

So you are looking at around 90 minutes of run from a pair of RCR123 cells, enough lux+lumens to reach 100+ yards and light up a moderately large room. I can't think of any drop in that meet all these criteria.

A malkoff M60 will kind of do it, but you are only going to get ~45 minutes of run time. Same goes for a DX11836 or DX17593, and note that these are more spot-throwey than the M60. If you go this route my suggestion would be to carry backup cells to extend run times. Its not ideal but it will get you there. You could extend run times for any of these modules by switching to a 9P body and using 2x17500 cells, that should get you around an hour of regulated run time, or you could use a solarforce 1x18650 body + their 1x18650 extension. That would allow 2x18650 for really long run times.

If you need to retain th estock 6P size, a malkoff M30, or DX11074 will boost run times to about 1:30 (if you use a trustfire 2400mah cell). But you are going to have to mod your 6P for 1x18650 use. The fore-mentioned Solarforce 18650 body will do the trick.


----------



## Tim B

*Recommend a drop in for 9P*

I am looking for a bright P60 sized drop-in that will take full advantage of the 9V of 3 X 123A's in a 9P host. What drop-ins would you recommend that would be the brightest in that particular setup. Most of the info that I have found by reading various threads mainly deals with brightness and runtime, etc. in a host with 2 X 123A's or a single 18650. I can't find much on what would be the brightest with 3 X 123A's. I am looking for a good combination of spot and flood.


----------



## Marduke

3xCR123 will not be any brighter than any of the 2xCR123 P60 style LED modules. 

In that format, I suggest running 2x17500 instead.


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: Recommend a drop in for 9P*



Tim B said:


> I am looking for a bright P60 sized drop-in that will take full advantage of the 9V of 3 X 123A's in a 9P host. What drop-ins would you recommend that would be the brightest in that particular setup. Most of the info that I have found by reading various threads mainly deals with brightness and runtime, etc. in a host with 2 X 123A's or a single 18650. I can't find much on what would be the brightest with 3 X 123A's. I am looking for a good combination of spot and flood.



P60 drop ins are buck converters, they drop Vin down to Vf to power the LED. So additional voltage does not make them brighter. Additional _current _is what brightens them, so long as Vin is at or around Vf (3.6V).

For the 9P, I'd go with 2x17500, and a ~1.2-1.4A drop in thats optimal for this voltage level... Malkoff M60 comes to mind immediately. Come to think of it... an M60 in s surefire C3 with 2x17500 cells would be a GREAT setup, although the M30 still remains my fave malkoff.


----------



## kramer5150

Heads up...
I'll have a DX MC-E tomorrow, along with a Derelight smooth reflector!!!

I will be on vacation for a week so I will not be able to post impressions for a week... unless I can find www access somewhere.

*WOOHOO!!!*

:twothumbs


----------



## Wiggle

kramer5150 said:


> Heads up...
> I'll have a DX MC-E tomorrow, along with a Derelight smooth reflector!!!
> 
> I will be on vacation for a week so I will not be able to post impressions for a week... unless I can find www access somewhere.
> 
> *WOOHOO!!!*
> 
> :twothumbs



Enjoy:ironic: Only problem I've found with that drop-in is that it doesn't transfer heat to the body of my Solarforce L2 terriby well stock. So the light would be mildly warm but if I opened up the bezel the module was very hot. After wrapping in aluminum foil though it transfers to the body very well.


----------



## kramer5150

Wiggle said:


> Enjoy:ironic: Only problem I've found with that drop-in is that it doesn't transfer heat to the body of my Solarforce L2 terriby well stock. So the light would be mildly warm but if I opened up the bezel the module was very hot. After wrapping in aluminum foil though it transfers to the body very well.



thanks for the heads up, I'll carefully monitor temps. I plan on using it on LOW quiet a bit. DX really botched up the reflector on this one. Although those heat insulating ridges probably steers them clear of a malkoff patent violation.

When I get back I am going to try some AA and a fine grade file to fill those pesky air gaps.

IMHO foil wrapping is a great way to improve thermal conductivity.


----------



## Ryanrpm

I ordered a KD MC-E drop-in for my L2M...to run off of (1) - AW IMR16350

I'll post some pictures/beamshots/ceiling bounce comparisons...etc...

I think the KD is identical to the DX version....just cost a little more. :shrug:

Oh well, wanted to be the first to try it...


----------



## kramer5150

DX MC-E is in... No chance to do any thorough evaluation yet.

This is the actual module that MrGman measured at 350L and 150L.

With a white trustfire 18650 it draws 2.35A on high and .80A on low in an Ultrafire 503B host. Which is considerably more than I think other members are measuring. I am not sure what current it delivers to the LED though. It is _very _bright though... on high it makes my 1.350A XR-E DIY modules look dim by comparison.






:thumbsup:


----------



## NigelBond

Those current draw measurments look promissing, certainly better than the previous reports. I would guess your's is probably brighter than MrGman's measurement of 350 and 150 lumens. Do you feel this is the case?

I hope this isn't one randome fluke module. It would be great if this is the result of a change to the driver.


----------



## DHart

Kramer... that Ultrafire of yours looks like an *exact* clone, contour for contour, knurling, etc. to the Solarforce L2.... it sure looks like the same company is making the bodies/heads/tailcaps! Perhaps there is just a single company that makes the product and sells them under two (or more) of their own brand labels. Or, a single company makes the flashlights and then sells these exact same products to Solarforce, Ultrafire, etc. I wonder if anyone here really knows what the scoop is.


----------



## kramer5150

NigelBond said:


> Those current draw measurments look promissing, certainly better than the previous reports. I would guess your's is probably brighter than MrGman's measurement of 350 and 150 lumens. Do you feel this is the case?
> 
> I hope this isn't one randome fluke module. It would be great if this is the result of a change to the driver.



I don't really have anything else at these lumen values to compare it with, and I think his measurement methods are very accurate. My current measurements probably are not too accurate too.

:twothumbs


----------



## kramer5150

DHart said:


> Kramer... that Ultrafire of yours looks like an *exact* clone, contour for contour, knurling, etc. to the Solarforce L2.... it sure looks like the same company is making the bodies/heads/tailcaps! Perhaps there is just a single company that makes the product and sells them under two (or more) of their own brand labels. Or, a single company makes the flashlights and then sells these exact same products to Solarforce, Ultrafire, etc. I wonder if anyone here really knows what the scoop is.



It wouldn't surprise me if they all came from the same sub-contract fabricator in China. With different levels of machning/finishing quality from brand to brand.

I don' t think we'll ever really know for sure though.


----------



## Black Rose

I honestly can't see all of these China & Hong Kong (yes I know it's part of China, but they seem to prefer to differentiate themselves) based light companies having their own factories for machining their products - the capital outlay for that would be immense.


----------



## aesix

*Re: Dereelight 3SD Q5 burned (almost)*

What battery did you use? 6V or 7.2? or a single 18650?


----------



## Sober

What P60 sized drop-in will have the best throw? More than 100 yards? A runtime of 20mins will be fine, batteries can be either 18650 or 2x 16340's.

Regards


----------



## kramer5150

aesix said:


> What battery did you use? 6V or 7.2? or a single 18650?





Sober said:


> What P60 sized drop-in will have the best throw? More than 100 yards? A runtime of 20mins will be fine, batteries can be either 18650 or 2x 16340's.
> 
> Regards



Trustfire white 18650, DX:12397

bigchellis gave me a Deerelight smooth P60 reflector IMHO it increases throw over the standard OP types sold at DX. This reflector paired with any 1-1.4A driven Q5 XR-E will be about as much throw as you can get in a tight budget. AFIAK BOG and I think deerelight sell far throw versions of their modules.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

Agree about SMO reflector. I tend to like LOP better, but SMO does in fact SPOT!


----------



## Phaserburn

ok, I've read alot of this and previous threads. What I already have:

Malkoff M30WF
Malkoff M30
Deree 3SD Q5, 3SM Q3 5A, 3SD Q3 5A, 3SM R2, MCE
A few DX P4s of various ilks

What I want:

A couple of additional drop-ins (I've just been bitten by the Solarforce L2 host). I'm not looking for tons of throw; _a really smooth beam and better tint are both more important to me than throw_ (I have a DBS, various incans and HID for that). Less expensive would be nice if possible.

I also have a couple of WE lights that could use a module; I know that means only WE modules. How are they regarded for output and circuit vs the other brands available?

Is the Solarforce R2 just a rebadged DX'er?


----------



## kramer5150

Phaserburn said:


> ok, I've read alot of this and previous threads. What I already have:
> 
> Malkoff M30WF
> Malkoff M30
> Deree 3SD Q5, 3SM Q3 5A, 3SD Q3 5A, 3SM R2, MCE
> A few DX P4s of various ilks
> 
> What I want:
> 
> A couple of additional drop-ins (I've just been bitten by the Solarforce L2 host). I'm not looking for tons of throw; _a really smooth beam and better tint are both more important to me than throw_ (I have a DBS, various incans and HID for that). Less expensive would be nice if possible.
> 
> I also have a couple of WE lights that could use a module; I know that means only WE modules. How are they regarded for output and circuit vs the other brands available?
> 
> Is the Solarforce R2 just a rebadged DX'er?



The M30 (and WF version) also behaves like a low output module (~45L IIRC) when used with 18650 1.2V NiMH. I think this would work great with your M30WF. I don't think you can get any warmer or smoother than that. I think NiMH cells that size also have ~4000 mah capacity, so you get additional run time. Theres a thread on it somewhere, I think the MrGman sticky thread.

Not sure if solarforce is rebranded DX or vise-versa... or if another OEM fabricator in china makes them for both. The DX144442 I got a few months ago has a solarforce R2-M label on it, and more importantly behaves a lot like the other reports of "legit" solarforce R2-M modules.... ~140L on high.


----------



## Nite

Stuff I need to know:

I just had a customer ask me about some AA sized bodies I carry. I dont know the answer.

Whats a good list of P60 drop ins for a body that takes one two or three AA sized cells, 14500 or NIMH or alkaline, lithium, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LiteFan 


> Cool, what are there any 3 volt dropins or better yet less than 3 volt dropins?


----------



## schiesz

I've made a few using a buck/boost from DX that was intended for a single AA host that can handle a lithium ion 14500. I don't know that there are any complete ones available anywhere that will go as low as that one (0.7V I think).

A nice 2 AA option is the Malkoff M30. It should be able to handle 3 AA as well. I've never tried it with a single to know if it will go that low.


----------



## seaside

Phaserburn said:


> I'm not looking for tons of throw; _a really smooth beam and better tint are both more important to me than throw_ (I have a DBS, various incans and HID for that). Less expensive would be nice if possible.
> 
> Is the Solarforce R2 just a rebadged DX'er?


 
Deal sku 4068 is SSC p4 drop-in, so the beam pattern supposed to be more smooth and flood than cree drop-ins. Check it out if interested.

There are some rumors regarding that. Can not be sure or confirmed, but I won't be supprised if all of them come from the same factory with different label.


----------



## Phaserburn

seaside said:


> Deal sku 4068 is SSC p4 drop-in, so the beam pattern supposed to be more smooth and flood than cree drop-ins. Check it out if interested.
> 
> There are some rumors regarding that. Can not be sure or confirmed, but I won't be supprised if all of them come from the same factory with different label.



Yeah, I think I will check out 4068; it seems to be backordered for another week, however. Anyone already have one ?


----------



## kosPap

schiesz said:


> I've made a few using a buck/boost from DX that was intended for a single AA host that can handle a lithium ion 14500. I don't know that there are any complete ones available anywhere that will go as low as that one (0.7V I think).
> 
> A nice 2 AA option is the Malkoff M30. It should be able to handle 3 AA as well. I've never tried it with a single to know if it will go that low.


 
what schiesz said....that driver (also found in KaiDomain) is the only real option...There is also another 3V 500mA board in DX but the latest version is aout 50% effciency and 16mm diam...

Were to find modules with 14mm driver sockets we would have a party installing LEDShoppe drivers!!!! ( but I am working on a way to adaptinf the 17mm socket modules :twothumbs)

Now I do not know about the malkoffs....


----------



## Superdave

Anyone have beamshots of the Lumens Factory D26 single mode R2?


My ebay cheapie Q5 dropin is starting to have issues and i'm not going to replace the emitter for the 2nd time.. lol. 

Thanks


----------



## Mvalenz

Wow so many options I had no idea flash lights could be so specialized


----------



## DHart

Superdave said:


> Anyone have beamshots of the Lumens Factory D26 single mode R2?



I'd really like to see those as well... if anyone can provide that.


----------



## metlarules

kramer5150 said:


> The M30 (and WF version) also behaves like a low output module (~45L IIRC) when used with 18650 1.2V NiMH. I think this would work great with your M30WF. I don't think you can get any warmer or smoother than that. I think NiMH cells that size also have ~4000 mah capacity, so you get additional run time. Theres a thread on it somewhere, I think the MrGman sticky thread.
> 
> Not sure if solarforce is rebranded DX or vise-versa... or if another OEM fabricator in china makes them for both. The DX144442 I got a few months ago has a solarforce R2-M label on it, and more importantly behaves a lot like the other reports of "legit" solarforce R2-M modules.... ~140L on high.


 https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2785793


----------



## Black Rose

Anyone know if it's possible to buy empty P60 pills and reflectors to make your own drop-ins?


----------



## rmteo

Look for DX sku 5955 or 3257.


----------



## Black Rose

rmteo said:


> Look for DX sku 5955 or 3257.


Thank you.

Never thought of using those search terms there.


----------



## Black Rose

BTW, Lumens Factory now has a regulated 3-mode P60/D26 drop-in with memory and a warm emitter.

I am guessing from the specs that it starts on low instead of high like most multi-mode drop-ins.

The working voltage is from 6-13v though, so not good for single 18650/17670 lights


----------



## kramer5150

Black Rose said:


> Thank you.
> 
> Never thought of using those search terms there.



... and shiningbeam sells XR-E and MC-E emitters mounted on 16mm slugs.


----------



## Superdave

I went ahead and ordered the LF single mode D26 last night, I'll get some beamshots of it VS a few different D26 dropins when it arrives.


----------



## Superdave

Got the LF one today, I'm very impressed!

It blows away my old ebay dropin, the hotspot isn't perfect but who cares.. 


Beamshots tomorrow VS a M60 and P60L


----------



## kosPap

you know you can focus it to yor lining don't you?

just screw/unscrew the reflector to your liking...


----------



## Superdave

kosPap said:


> you know you can focus it to yor lining don't you?
> 
> just screw/unscrew the reflector to your liking...




Yah, but it's good enough.. 


Here is a .gif beamshot comparison. The exposure is a little high but you get the idea. 







The LF assembly throws just as good if not better than the M60, it maintains a tight hotspot too. The target on the tree is ~35' from the camera. Don't mind the drywall, I'm in the middle of re-doing my basement so there is stuff all lover my back yard.


----------



## sparktastic

Hows this for a good deal??
KD now has single mode, R2, 3.6-18v drop-ins for $7.59ea (single price!!)
Just noticed it. The other site is still asking over $9 for what looks like the same unit.

*SKU: S004332



*


----------



## kavvika

I say get one before they raise the price (they've done such a thing in the past). If it's a real R2, that's a great deal for what looks to be a decent P60 module. That module looks to use the same pill and reflector design Dereelight does, so you can interchange. If you already have a few P60 modules, save your $7 and change and put it towards another module or light.


----------



## CampingLED

Too late, changed to $9.53. Thought of buying some since I need R2s on 14mm base.


----------



## Black Rose

I see Lumens Factory has added a regulated 3-mode P60/D26 drop-in with memory and a warm emitter and a working voltage of 3.0-3.7v - perfect for single cell lights :thumbsup:

As with the higher voltage model, it's modes appear to operate in low-medium-high order.

Kind of pricey, but it seems to be what a lot of us are looking for.


----------



## kramer5150

Black Rose said:


> I see Lumens Factory has added a regulated 3-mode P60/D26 drop-in with memory and a warm emitter and a working voltage of 3.0-3.7v - perfect for single cell lights :thumbsup:
> 
> As with the higher voltage model, it's modes appear to operate in low-medium-high order.
> 
> Kind of pricey, but it seems to be what a lot of us are looking for.



R2 brightness BIN with a warm tint? is that a typo? I didn't think the brightness BINS for this tint handn't yet reached over Q3.


----------



## Wiggle

I think I've seen 5A and 5B as high as Q4 only. It looks like its 5000-5500k, which isn't cold but I wouldn't call it warm either, pretty neutral I'd say. Either way, a 3-mode, neutral, designed for regulation on 1 cell drop-in could be pretty sweet. I don't know if theres anything else like that out there right now.


----------



## Black Rose

The Dereelight 3SD is a 3-mode (H-M-L), single cell drop-in that is available with 5A Q3 bins.

The Lumens Factory module is tempting, just not sure if I _really_ want to spend $30 for a drop-in at this point.

It's too bad that 3-mode circuit boards aren't available...


----------



## Desertrat

*R2 P60 Drop In*

Have any of you tried the R2 drop ins that are sold by Battery Junction.com,
and what do you think of them? I need two or three for some of my SF lights as backups.


----------



## USM0083

*Re: R2 P60 Drop In*



Desertrat said:


> Have any of you tried the R2 drop ins that are sold by Battery Junction.com,
> and what do you think of them? I need two or three for some of my SF lights as backups.



Looks like this one from DX: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11836

I've used the DX one in about 7 different lights and they are pretty good. Fairly well defined hotspot, and about 190 lumens according to my lightbox.


----------



## hyperloop

*Re: R2 P60 Drop In*



USM0083 said:


> Looks like this one from DX: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11836
> 
> I've used the DX one in about 7 different lights and they are pretty good. Fairly well defined hotspot, and about 190 lumens according to my lightbox.


 
+1, i got one of these and its pretty good, you can see a beamshot of this drop in this thread at post #2. In those pictures its running on 2xRCR123s (3.6v)


----------



## Mikey V

*Re: R2 P60 Drop In*



Desertrat said:


> Have any of you tried the R2 drop ins that are sold by Battery Junction.com,
> and what do you think of them? I need two or three for some of my SF lights as backups.


 
I've got six of the ones sold by Battery Junction. They are all single mode. (Don't get the 5-mode, It is not one with memory, thus turns on at a diffferent setting every time, and is also less bright). They are uniformly very bright and tint is exactly the same (WC) on all six. Compared to my two Olight M20's with WD tint R2's I'd say they are as bright as my M20's, and ever so slightly cooler, hence WC. They are noticeably brighter than my three Solarforce labeled R2 drop-in's, and will run as bright on a 18650 as they will on two 123 primaries. They're a good buy.


----------



## xiejol

I got lucky and got one before the price went up. This drop-in has the tightest spot of any I own. I've got it running in my Surefire 6P right now and it is seriously bright. I've been very impressed, especially when comparing it to my other R2 drop-ins, which aren't as bright with the same setup.



sparktastic said:


> Hows this for a good deal??
> KD now has single mode, R2, 3.6-18v drop-ins for $7.59ea (single price!!)
> Just noticed it. The other site is still asking over $9 for what looks like the same unit.
> 
> *SKU: S004332
> 
> 
> 
> *


----------



## NigelBond

Has anybody bought the solarforce mc-e drop in yet? I'd like to know if it's different from the dx/kd one. Looking at the pictures from solarforcestore, they look like they could be the same thing. Both having the wierd cut outs on the reflector but the description at solarforcestore claims that it has memory which the dx/kd ones don't. However, i've seen that sometimes people will claim having memory when a light starts at the next level every time. Their deffinition is that it remembers the last mode and starts on the next mode everytime. No memory to these people would be a light that starts out on a certain level every time and you have to cycle to get to your desired level.


----------



## ronparr

I just got sku: 17593 from DX. As others have mentioned, this appears to be single mode and not 3 mode. A quick press starts the brightness ramping from 0 to full, and you turn off the flashlight to lock in the desired brightness level.

I found the UI very intuitive and easy to use. It blinks twice at 5%, 50% and 100% to give you a sense a where you are in the brightness ramp.

One thing I noticed that I haven't seen discussed much is that this drop-in really seems to prefer more than 6 volts. With 1x18560 or 2xCR123, I don't think mine reaches full brightness. After the blink at 50%, it just doesn't get much brighter. With 2xRCR123 or 2x18650, I can see the brightness increasing right up to 100%.

Subjectively, I'd say that with more than 6 volts, this drop-in is close to the same brightness as the 5 mode drop-in that came with my Solarforce L2, but that with 6 volts or less, it's noticeably less bright. (Sorry about the subjective assessment; I'm not yet set up to do a more objective assessment.)

One other tangential thing: I had previously assumed that my 5 mode drop-in was direct driving with an 18650, so I was expecting brightness to drop off as the battery voltage dropped. It turns out that I almost killed the unprotected 18650 that shipped with my L2 because I didn't notice much brightness drop to clue me in that the battery voltage was getting perilously low. I still suspect that it was direct driving and that I just wasn't paying enough attention, but I'm surprised that the drop in brightness wasn't more salient.
http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.17593


----------



## Wiggle

NigelBond said:


> Has anybody bought the solarforce mc-e drop in yet? I'd like to know if it's different from the dx/kd one. Looking at the pictures from solarforcestore, they look like they could be the same thing. Both having the wierd cut outs on the reflector but the description at solarforcestore claims that it has memory which the dx/kd ones don't. However, i've seen that sometimes people will claim having memory when a light starts at the next level every time. Their deffinition is that it remembers the last mode and starts on the next mode everytime. No memory to these people would be a light that starts out on a certain level every time and you have to cycle to get to your desired level.



DX drop-in has memory but only for a few minutes. So if you leave it along time it will always turn on in high but if you just put it in your pocket for a minute and then turn it back on it returns to last mode.


----------



## NigelBond

I got confirmation that the solarforce one has memory so I think I'll give that a try over geting the dx one. The memory on the dx one as you describe it wiggle, sounds just like what one of my cheap dx ultrafire lights came with. I changed the driver on that light to get proper fulltime memory. I didn't like it the way it was very much.


----------



## Desertrat

Just received my R2 LED dropins from Solarforce......very nice.....better than anticipated. Will check them out on my dog walk tonight. I have placed them in my 6P and my G2Z.


----------



## ronparr

ronparr said:


> I just got sku: 17593 from DX....
> 
> ...One thing I noticed that I haven't seen discussed much is that this drop-in really seems to prefer more than 6 volts. With 1x18560 or 2xCR123, I don't think mine reaches full brightness. After the blink at 50%, it just doesn't get much brighter. With 2xRCR123 or 2x18650, I can see the brightness increasing right up to 100%.



I did a quick test to compare the performance of this drop-in with 2xRCR123 (AW protected) vs. 1x18650 (AW protected).

With 2xRCR123, the I got 1.75 hrs. at max brightness before the light turned itself off, presumably due to voltage cutoff from the protection circuit on the RCR123's. 

With 1x18650, the light got gradually dimmer (consistent with buck, but not boost regulation). It ran for 3.5 hrs. until I had to interrupt to the test. When I tried to resume the test, the pill would no longer remember the selected brightness level. Every time I tried to turn it on, the light would start the ramping sequence, but it wouldn't remember my choice. Just to verify that the pill wasn't damaged, I put in some fresh CR123s and it did fine.

I checked the 18650 battery and it was at 3.75 volts. This would be plenty to drive another pill, something I verified by testing it with my 5 mode R2 pill.

To summarize, this drop-in really seems optimized for more voltage than a single cell provides. With a single cell, it appears that the drop-in may stop functioning even though there's more than enough energy left to power the light. I can't recommend this for people who want to run in a single cell configuration.


----------



## Desertrat

R2 from Solarforce......awesome.....that is all the light I need....very good throw and perfect for checking your "perimeter" while out walking the dog....I am pleased, and would definitely get more of these!


----------



## DHart

Yeah... the Solarforce R2 drop ins are nice. My favorites are the 3.7 v ones, not the multi-voltage units. I found a fair bit of variability in the multi-voltage units one to another, but the single voltage 3.7v lamps tend to be more consistent and brighter. Plus, I'm a big fan of single cell power in flashlights and avoid using two cells whenever possible. One 18650 (or 17670, if necessary, to fit a narrow tube) rather than two RCR123's.

I'm running the 3.7v 5-mode R2s in a couple of 18650 L2s and an L2 mini with an RCR123, and sometimes in a Surefire Z2 Combatlight with a 17670. Very nice output. Me likey.


----------



## jake25

Desertrat said:


> Just received my R2 LED dropins from Solarforce......very nice.....better than anticipated. Will check them out on my dog walk tonight. I have placed them in my 6P and my G2Z.


I'm glad you like the dropins Desertrat!


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

I haven't yet gotten a multi level drop in that doesn't do PWM in any mode besides high.

This includes the proprietary drop in in my Wolf Eyes Sniper. None of them have quite enough spread from Low to High either.

I've taken to having my P2D Q5, LumiPower Connexion and EagleTac P10C2 on me when in work clothes because none of them have PWM.

I've only had one drop (a DX 4068 as I recall) fail. And besides the Sniper all have had decent tint. This includes DX, SolarForce and at least one other brand I can't recall just now.


----------



## orbital

+

*XP-E*-WC-R2 5-Mode from DX

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25369


----------



## Flashfirstask?later

orbital said:


> +
> 
> *XP-E*-WC-R2 5-Mode from DX
> 
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25369


It however has a XR-E reflector.


----------



## orbital

+

Please provide the link showing why XP-E wouldn't be even more optimized with standard P60 style reflector.


----------



## NigelBond

Well i got delivery of my solarforce mc-e drop in. Although somebody said that it has memory, I've found that the memory works like the dx mc-e as described by wiggle. It has memory for only a few minutes and then it resets. This is slightly disapointing as I thought it would have proper memory. I don't have a dx version to compare it to but I'm assuming that it's probably the same module. It also makes a high pitched whine when running in high and low mode but not when strobing. It is deffinitly brighter than my r2 and q5 dropins but not overwhelmingly brighter like I was expecting. This could have to do with my batteries. Right now i've got it on a grey ultrafire 17670. I've got some of the newer black trustfire2400 18650 on the way and hope they will make a difference in brightness. The black trustfires are reported to have lower internal resistance.


----------



## Joe18

What LED bulb should I get for my SF G3 I'm sick of incandesant, and I dont have the time to go through all of these forums and posts.


----------



## Bullzeyebill

Joe18, how much do you want to spend? Do you want super bright, or long, long runtime? 

Bill


----------



## Joe18

No more than 30-40$, And a good balance betwen the two, I'd like really bright but I'm not using rechargeables yet. So the brightest with about 1.5hr+ runtime.


----------



## Black Rose

Lumens Factory offers two types (different voltage ranges) of 3-mode drop-ins (no blinky modes) for about $30 with shipping.

With one of those drop-ins you could have bright or long runtime all in one unit.


----------



## Joe18

I'd need this one, http://www.lumensfactory.com/cart_detail.php?id=98 .
Please dont tell me how stupid I am but how do select which setting you want? And do you have any idea what lumens the settings are? 
Thanks


----------



## Black Rose

A partial click on the switch of your light would change the modes.

Not sure what the lumen ratings would be for each mode.

Here is a thread where these 3-mode drop-ins are being discussed.


----------



## Joe18

So baisically every time it turns on it goes to the next mode right? If so I'm definitely going to get one of these.


----------



## Black Rose

The drop-in has memory.

If you turn it off when it is on the medium setting, it will come on at the medium setting the next time you turn the light on.

If you are using it and do a partial depress of the switch it will change to the next mode and then that one becomes the memorized mode.


----------



## Joe18

So two clicks in succesion changes the mode right? It will work with momentary switch right?


----------



## Bullzeyebill

Joe18 said:


> So two clicks in succesion changes the mode right? It will work with momentary switch right?



You do not have to click to change to next mode. A partial depression of the switch and release will change the mode.

Bill


----------



## Joe18

Sorry, I guess I was trying to ask if it would work with my momentary switch. Where should I buy it?


----------



## Black Rose

Multi-mode drop-ins work better with reverse clickies as they momentarily interrupt the circuit when you press them in a bit. 
That interruption is what causes the mode change.

It will probably work with the momentary switch, but you would need to use the momentary switch (without doing a full click) to select your mode and then press the switch in fully to keep the light on in the selected mode.


----------



## Joe18

It has a momentary button then you screw it down for permenant light. But from what I understand it should work, right.

Where should I buy it, I really dont want to order it from Hong Kong.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

You can use multi level drop ins with forward or reverse clicky switches just fine.

I rather prefer reverse myself.

A push/twist is SORT of a forward switch.


----------



## Joe18

Alright my cards in hand, where do I get one other than directly from lumens factory?


----------



## Bullzeyebill

Well, lighthound.com (Texas) carries Lumens Factory lamp assemblies, but I just checked and they are not carrying the 3 mode models. They are the only US distributors, I think. A lot of CPF'ers order direct from factory with no problems. Check out the linked CPF thread.

Bill


----------



## rmteo

Look for CPF member jake25. He should be able to assist:
http://shop.1asecure.com/prodindex.cfm


----------



## Joe18

I started a different forum earlier and forgot about it. And they brought up the Malkoff M60L, now I'm torn I might end up getting both. 

Thanks everyone


----------



## recDNA

Black Rose said:


> The drop-in has memory.
> 
> If you turn it off when it is on the medium setting, it will come on at the medium setting the next time you turn the light on.
> 
> If you are using it and do a partial depress of the switch it will change to the next mode and then that one becomes the memorized mode.


 
Does that work with the stock maglite clicky?


----------



## Black Rose

recDNA said:


> Does that work with the stock maglite clicky?


P60 drop-ins don't work with Maglites.


----------



## orbital

+

Moddoo {custom builder, CPF member} is selling one of the most incredible drop-ins ever.
Ya snooze, ya loose!!!

* Custom built triple CREE XP-E <> P-60 drop-ins. PRE-PAY SALE

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/233442...*:devil:


----------



## Wiggle

I found myself wanting an XR-E multi-mode so I ordered the Lumens Factory 3-Mode with the warm(er) R2. Its too bad so many of the cheaper options are 5-mode. 3-modes /w memory and (hopefully) decent tint should be a winnder, I'll post shots when it comes in. Decided on the single cell version cause I'm a big fan of the 1 x 18650 setup for runtime and size.


----------



## Black Rose

I took two of those 5-mode drop-ins and installed the L-Mini II driver from Shiningbeam in them.

Now I have 3-mode drop-ins with memory, run down and reverse polarity protection, and no PWM :twothumbs


----------



## Wiggle

Initial impressions on D26 LED 3-mode 1 Li-ion:

Good quality physically
Modes are well spaced
Not quite as neutral I was hoping, about as blue as my L2D if you want a reference, not outright offensive blue as my Solarforce R2.
Looks like a real good thrower, like my Solarforce R2 drop-in but less blue and on one cell

Memory/mode switch timing is perfect. I was worried this wouldn't work well at my job because I use momentary alot, often within a second of the previous push. Luckily, this module requires a fast on/off to recognize a mode change so it's almost impossible to accidentally change modes when you just wanted to reactivate the light, very smart. I wish more manufacturers did this. How annoying is it to turn the light off for 2 seconds and then back on and have the mode change?

I'll try to get a shot in the same scenario as my other indoor beamshots at least.

Current draw on a Fresh TF 2500 Blue:

Low: 105mA
Mid: 432mA
Hi:1.46A

Looks like possibly 200+ lumens on high, it's blasting pretty hard.

Couple outdoor shots:


----------



## lewong

I saw that Shiningbeam has a 3-Mode Regulated Circuit Board for Cree MC-E and SSC P7 (SKU 1217). The specs say the output current is 2500mA on high. I thought I’d use it to replace the circuit board in my DX 3-mode MC-E drop-in (SKU 21037) where I measured a disappointing 1.654A on full power (see my post 183 in this thread)

It was an easy replacement since the Shiningbeam board diameter is the same 17mm. I am using it in a bored 6P body with the 6P bezel and a Solarforce L2-S4 tailcap.

The drop-in was a little loose. I had been using a Malkoff Beryllium-Copper spring washer, but it didn’t work too well this board. I cut one turn of a P60 drop-in spring and it creates a 1mm gap between the head and the body, but it works. I also had to put a longer spring on the circuit board because the battery was loose otherwise.

After I wired it up, I measured 2.39A on full power with the same battery, so it’s a nice replacement for the board that comes in the DX drop-in. It still doesn’t look as bright as my direct drive P7 in my Ultrafire C2, but it is much brighter than the stock DX MC-E drop-in.

The other nice thing is the Shiningbeam board has Low-Medium-High modes as opposed to the High-Low-Strobe on the DX.

I apologize if this in should be in Homemade and Modified lights, but my original post was about a P60 sized drop-in so I thought I add this here.


----------



## bourmb

lewong said:


> I saw that Shiningbeam has a 3-Mode Regulated Circuit Board for Cree MC-E and SSC P7 (SKU 1217). The specs say the output current is 2500mA on high. I thought I’d use it to replace the circuit board in my DX 3-mode MC-E drop-in (SKU 21037) where I measured a disappointing 1.654A on full power (see my post 183 in this thread)
> 
> It was an easy replacement since the Shiningbeam board diameter is the same 17mm. I am using it in a bored 6P body with the 6P bezel and a Solarforce L2-S4 tailcap.
> 
> The drop-in was a little loose. I had been using a Malkoff Beryllium-Copper spring washer, but it didn’t work too well this board. I cut one turn of a P60 drop-in spring and it creates a 1mm gap between the head and the body, but it works. I also had to put a longer spring on the circuit board because the battery was loose otherwise.
> 
> After I wired it up, I measured 2.39A on full power with the same battery, so it’s a nice replacement for the board that comes in the DX drop-in. It still doesn’t look as bright as my direct drive P7 in my Ultrafire C2, but it is much brighter than the stock DX MC-E drop-in.
> 
> The other nice thing is the Shiningbeam board has Low-Medium-High modes as opposed to the High-Low-Strobe on the DX.
> 
> I apologize if this in should be in Homemade and Modified lights, but my original post was about a P60 sized drop-in so I thought I add this here.



I want to buy a good performing MC-E P60 pill at a reasonable price and was considering the DX P60 pill. If I was starting off from scratch would this be the better solution than DX?
1. MC-E emitter: http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-130/Cree-MC-dsh-E-M-dsh-bin-WC/Detail
2. circuit board: http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-132/3-dsh-Mode-Regulated-Circuit-Board/Detail

This would be for a 18650 Solarforce LC body/head. Would I be better off finding a complete P60 pill somewhere?


----------



## lewong

It depends on what you mean by reasonable price. The DX and KD are ~$USD 25. The Solarforce drop-in looks like it's the same part. MrGman took lumens readings of the DX dropin and it seems respectable.

To me, a Malkoff P60 MC-E would seem reasonable if my life depended on it. nailbender sells a P60 MC-E. Those are the only ones I can think of.

The two things you're pointing to are just another way of doing what I did, I can't see it being much better or worse - I already had the DX drop-in.

StefanFS shows how to make a P60 dropin MC E/SSC P7 at 2.4A, which I would do if I weren't so lazy.


----------



## kramer5150

lewong said:


> ....It still doesn’t look as bright as my direct drive P7 in my Ultrafire C2, but it is much brighter than the stock DX MC-E drop-in.




It physically can't be as bright as the Ultrafire C2 setup. The 6P by design does not have sufficient heatsinking material or adequate thermal conduction path to keep the LED cool. Higher currents may initially start out bright, but they rapidly dim as the LED heats and loses efficiency.

I would question how long it sustains that level of brightness, running at that high of a current.

The C2 is a really nice mod host for the $$$ IMHO. I have the typeIII version and its a much better thermal design than a P60 host.


----------



## Wiggle

Just did a runtime test on the Lumens Factory D26 LED 3-mode. On high mode it ran for 2:10 on a Trustfire 2400 black. Regulation was very good, it barely seemed to dim at all before shutting off completely from the cells protection. I've yet to decide whether I prefer flat regulation but fast shut off or tapered output with dimming for long low-output runtime as a warning. 

I also ran medium but didn't watch it closely enough to get an exact time, somewhere between 6 and 7 hours. Eventually I'll run a low test, but based on my current measurements I estimate about a day and half or a little more.


----------



## bourmb

Does anyone know if the following RED CREE P4 LED fit in a Solarforce L2 running on a 18650? SKU: S006155 at Kaidomain. 

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5621


----------



## aussiebuddha

I can't say for sure, because I dont have one.
But it looks like a p60 module, and I have yet to have problems to fit any P60 module to my L2. (sorry for being obvious, thought it might help tho)


----------



## kramer5150

Anyone considering the DX:11836... NEEDS to read this thread carefully. DX has re-tooled this module and they are WAAAY overdriving the LED with 7.5V-2A. Bigchellis measured his and it barely emits ~120L. In light of this I simply can NOT recommend this module to anyone... its absolute rubbish. Unless you wanted to use it for modding and perhaps a driver board transplant.

Heres the thread....

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/236337


----------



## kavvika

Just as a heads up, the DX Q2 5A module (#12501) is back in stock after nearly 2 months of back-order status. The price is lower, too, and I'm tempted to order another just to snag one while I still have the chance.

Also, KD now sells a XP-E P60 DIY module, and I ordered one this morning. I didn't have much luck with one of DX's XP-E's in a XR-E reflector, so hopefully this will do the trick. I've been wanting to try out a XP-E module for a while, but prefer to make one myself.

For DIY's, you might want to check out DX #3257 OP P60 module. Maybe I got lucky and all the components worked together perfectly, but with a Q2 5A mounted I get an absolutely flawless beam with no Cree rings, which is a surprising change. I ordered another to use with one of PF's K2 TFFC emitters.


----------



## kramer5150

kavvika said:


> Just as a heads up, the DX Q2 5A module (#12501) is back in stock after nearly 2 months of back-order status. The price is lower, too, and I'm tempted to order another just to snag one while I still have the chance.



Thanks for the heads up...yes these are very limited runs.

I just placed an order. hopefully I snagged one in time.


----------



## tnforever

What drop in will make for a good biking light that can last at least a couple hours, and a relatively floody beam (I find the L2D's beam profile acceptable)

Reading this thread I was interested in P60s before, but it seems runtimes are short, which is making me ponder whether I should switch back to 2xAAs


----------



## Wiggle

DX MC-E, low mode. Nice and floody, still pretty bright and good runtimes.


----------



## tnforever

Wiggle said:


> DX MC-E, low mode. Nice and floody, still pretty bright and good runtimes.



AM I better off with the MC-E or the SSC P4, which is a recommendation I've found on the DX site?


----------



## kramer5150

Wiggle said:


> DX MC-E, low mode. Nice and floody, still pretty bright and good runtimes.



x2... with a good 18650 it should get you right around 2 hours. Its low is 150 Lumens of nice flood.


----------



## tnforever

kramer5150 said:


> x2... with a good 18650 it should get you right around 2 hours. Its low is 150 Lumens of nice flood.



eg UF 18650?


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

Would be best to use protected 18650! That light MIGHT suck an unprotected down past safe.


----------



## firesure

Guys, I want to upgrade my stock incan on my nearly three year old 6p which is seeing alot of action lately on night shifts. I want to get an LED drop in.

What and from where can you recommend? A while back I tried to contact Malkoff via. their website with no reply.... from what I've read they seem a good bet.

I can't tell what is good from eBay as they all look crappy.

Cheers...


----------



## Winx

firesure said:


> Guys, I want to upgrade my stock incan on my nearly three year old 6p which is seeing alot of action lately on night shifts. I want to get an LED drop in.
> 
> What and from where can you recommend? A while back I tried to contact Malkoff via. their website with no reply.... from what I've read they seem a good bet.
> 
> I can't tell what is good from eBay as they all look crappy.
> 
> Cheers...



Drop-ins without sos and strobe...

With 17670:

Dereelight 1S or 3SD
Malkoff M30
Lumens Factory D26

With RCR123's:

Dereelight 1SM-2 or 3SM
Malkoff M60
Lumens Factory D26

Solarforce is also releasing a few 3-mode drop-ins. Props to Jake25 for that!

Another solution is to buy cheapest R2 drop-in available and pair it with Shiningbeam's 3-mode 1 cell driver.

What ever drop-in you buy you definitely should wrap the reflector with aluminum foil or copper tape.


----------



## kramer5150

tnforever said:


> eg UF 18650?



trustfire 2400
or AW-IMR

there is an extensive test done by another member... I can't recall who though.

It should be noted however that the user MUST NOT over-drain unprotected cells. You can permanently damage the cell, if you deplete it past ~3.2V


----------



## Black Rose

kramer5150 said:


> trustfire 2400
> or AW-IMR
> 
> there is an extensive test done by another member... I can't recall who though.


I know Lermite has done some tests, including the black 2400 mAh TrustFire 18650 cells.


----------



## Nite

Question please LED experts:

building a Police officer a light..wanted to tell him how long his light can go for now that I have finished it.

Can someone tell me the runtime I can promise this officer for his 150$ dollar setup with accessories on 2xAWP17500 and the LF LED D26 drop in, its 1000mah I think, the one level model...

the spare set of cells brings the price up a bit..also needs a charger, wants a G3 host...so 17500

thanks in advance
lovecpf


----------



## Black Rose

AW 17500 protected cells have a labelled capacity of 1100 mAh.

If that capacity holds true at a 1000 mA draw, then you are looking at around 1 hour runtime with the LF D26 single mode LED module, but probably a bit less.


----------



## Mag

My boyfriend gave me a 5mega single double A body. It has a shurefite head sf d26 head. I want to run LED drop-in from regular AA battery. Is there a good drop-in that would run from 1.5Volt AA battery?... I am not interested in using 14500 batteries and the light does not have to be bright.
Thanks for any advice.

PS: this is my first post. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/images/smilies/ilovecpfag2.gif


----------



## SIMON LEONE

please guys don't tell me that's the way it should look like !!!

I received the DX MCE P60 Drop in and wow I was kinda disappointed. 
On high is just half as bright as my Dereelight Q5 3S Digital on high (1200mAh) ... ok it's not a thrower but I expected more of a MCE (it's my first one) 

oh and I tried it with several hosts and several cells (all my cells are fine) and I am sure there aren't any contact issues !!

can you guys please tell me what u think - tanks 

left Dereelight on high - right DX MCE drop in on high


----------



## xiejol

Bad driver maybe? Man, I was just about to order that dropin as a replacement for one of my R2s. I'll wait to see what happens with yours. Not a lot of beamshots of that model around. Maybe I'll have to go the P7 route.

If you get the problem resolved please post the fix and some screenshots.


----------



## linterno

Something similar happened with the one I bought. The driver pulled only 1500mA from the battery and the beam was absolutely ugly.

I replaced the DX MC-E driver's reflector with R2 driver's reflector and I got a better beam.


----------



## kramer5150

SIMON LEONE said:


> please guys don't tell me that's the way it should look like !!!
> 
> I received the DX MCE P60 Drop in and wow I was kinda disappointed.
> On high is just half as bright as my Dereelight Q5 3S Digital on high (1200mAh) ... ok it's not a thrower but I expected more of a MCE (it's my first one)
> 
> oh and I tried it with several hosts and several cells (all my cells are fine) and I am sure there aren't any contact issues !!
> 
> can you guys please tell me what u think - tanks
> 
> left Dereelight on high - right DX MCE drop in on high




Assuming your MCE module is not defective (and DX has not implemented any design changes since its release)... the DX: MC-E is a high lumen low lux design. So comparing spot intensities on a white wall with an XR-E drop in, its going to be visually significantly dimmer.

A ceiling bounce is the correct method to compare its output to other XR-E modules, because this kind of evaluation negates the effects of beam concentration.

Note also that the DX:MCE needs low resistant IMR cells to perform its best. Gary tested it at 150L on low and 350L on high with IMR cells.

I'll try and put together some beam shots and ceiling bounce comparisons later tonight. I have another DIY-XRE module that Gary measured at 205L OTF. I would expect that deerlight Q5 to emit around ~200-220Lumens OTF, at 1.2A.


----------



## SIMON LEONE

Ok I just came from the dark (yeah it's already ark here) and what can I say... well probably because I was disappointed and my expectations were pretty low I was kinda surprised when I switched the light on. Of course it's not a thrower and the 3SD is a little brighter and throws faster IN THE CENTER but the rest of the beam is as bright if not brighter as the 3SD and of course it's more floody. So I switched both modules to high, put them down on a fallen tree which was about 5 ft of height form the ground and went (up to 50ft) in front of the both lights and now I saw the difference. The 3SD looked like a Cree Q2 in comparison to the MCE. AWESOME

Back at home I checked the Ampere and the sad thing is - the driver SUCKS. I checked it with 3 of my best cells and the best result on high was 1820 mA and on low 402 mA ... so, wow it sucks 

But I'll keep it and upgrade it with a better driver ... man, if it's that bright by pulling only 1800 mA - this drop in must kick *** when running at 2400 mAh. Or am I wrong ??

I was a little busy today but if you guys want I can make some beamshots tomorrow night (compared to the the 3SD - the only light I have handy these days) 

oh and yeah I highly recommend changing the reflector - thanx linterno - indeed the r2 reflectors make a better beam !!

thanks so far :wave:


----------



## kramer5150

SIMON LEONE said:


> Ok I just came from the dark (yeah it's already ark here) and what can I say... well probably because I was disappointed and my expectations were pretty low I was kinda surprised when I switched the light on. Of course it's not a thrower and the 3SD is a little brighter and throws faster IN THE CENTER but the rest of the beam is as bright if not brighter as the 3SD and of course it's more floody. So I switched both modules to high, put them down on a fallen tree which was about 5 ft of height form the ground and went (up to 50ft) in front of the both lights and now I saw the difference. The 3SD looked like a Cree Q2 in comparison to the MCE. AWESOME
> 
> Back at home I checked the Ampere and the sad thing is - the driver SUCKS. I checked it with 3 of my best cells and the best result on high was 1820 mA and on low 402 mA ... so, wow it sucks
> 
> But I'll keep it and upgrade it with a better driver ... man, if it's that bright by pulling only 1800 mA - this drop in must kick *** when running at 2400 mAh. Or am I wrong ??
> 
> .... :wave:



IMHO pumping more current into an MCE or P7 P60 drop in will just overheat the LED. The 6P based designs do not have sufficient material, surface area or thermal conduction path to draw heat away from the multi-die LED emitters. So yes... running at ~2.4A may get you improved brightness, but it will only manifest itself as increased output for ~15-20 seconds. Once the LED heats up, output drops (significantly), and you are merely converting battery power to wasted heat. Note also that you also place the LED at risk, shortening its lifespan. I have an XRE-R2 diy module running at 1400mah and its significantly dimmer than my newer Q5 builds.

IMHO the stock DX:MC-E is a very good compromise between all these elements. IMHO it drives the MC-E about as hard as it can (in a 6P design)... without thermally nuking itself.

FYI... Gene Malkoff came to the same conclusion, and ceased sales of his P7 direct drive modules.

IMHO if you are wanting to really push an MC-E... you are better off using a different host.

The Spear-clone at DX I think would make a serviceable (but not) perfect candidate, as would any light thats bigger, heavier, and provides a sufficient thermal path as compared to a 6P.

One of the BEST high current multi-die designs I have used is the Solarforce M950, but thats an off-topic discussion for this thread.

Note also... you really NEED to use IMR 18650 cells if max current is your goal. They are the only 18650 cells that can keep up with the current draw requirements.


----------



## kramer5150

kramer5150 said:


> I'll try and put together some beam shots and ceiling bounce comparisons later tonight. I have another DIY-XRE module that Gary measured at 205L OTF....



My experiment failed miserably. Without an IMR cell I am barely getting ~235L out the front of my DX:MC-E. 18650 cell resistance plays a HUGE part in these quad die emitter performance.


----------



## SIMON LEONE

kramer5150 said:


> My experiment failed miserably. Without an IMR cell I am barely getting ~235L out the front of my DX:MC-E. 18650 cell resistance plays a HUGE part in these quad die emitter performance.



ok ... that's what I feared, so I need some new cells -  my wife

you coincidentally didn't checked the current running your mce drop in with regular 18650's ? 

tanks so far for your advice


----------



## kostiakot

Fizz753 said:


> *[Very long quote of entire post #1 removed - DM51]*


 
Thank you:wave:


----------



## kramer5150

SIMON LEONE said:


> ok ... that's what I feared, so I need some new cells -  my wife
> 
> you coincidentally didn't checked the current running your mce drop in with regular 18650's ?
> 
> tanks so far for your advice



Its been a while since I fried my multi-meter, but the last time I checked I was getting a very wide range of current draw measurements at the tailcap. It was anywhere from 1.6A to 2.2A... depending in the cell I was using. I would guess the cells I am using now are in the 1.6A draw range... but I have no way to measure it.

I need to go pick up another multi-meter.... and some IMR cells.


----------



## SFG2Lman

does anyone have any insight as to whether these new sst-90 or sst-50 will make a suitable p60 drop if i run a single IMR 18650? the sst-90 can run up to 9 amps, i was thinking about running it on 4-5 which is slightly overdriving it, but not by much. Will this still get too hot for an SF 6P or clone? I know its 5 amps, but the actual LED isn't being overdriven by much at all. And is there any hope for 30+ minutes of run time? Thanks!:thinking:


----------



## Wiggle

Just my opinion, I'd say it's too much heat to sink. Even a moderately driven MC-E or P7 is already pushing the limits.


----------



## jgraham15

What available P60 drop in has the most throw?


----------



## Superdave

jgraham15 said:


> What available P60 drop in has the most throw?




The lumens Factory R2 OP reflector out-throws a friends Malkoff M60 (which everyone thinks is the best).. the LF-R2 with a smo reflector should be even better.


----------



## Bullzeyebill

Superdave said:


> The lumens Factory R2 OP reflector out-throws a friends Malkoff M60 (which everyone thinks is the best).. the LF-R2 with a smo reflector should be even better.



Actually, the M60, M30 at their highest lumen output are not meant to be the greatest throwers, but they do put a huge ball of light out there. The Malkoff's are a blend of throw and flood without that tunnel vision beam cutoff.

Bill


----------



## Superdave

the LF one has great spill too, just a tighter hotspot. 

you can see it in the .gif i posted a few pages earlier. 

http://www.3500z.com/Misc/Lights/Beamshots-Animation.gif


----------



## jenskh

jgraham15 said:


> What available P60 drop in has the most throw?


 Dereelight P60 (CL1H) with R2 and SMO reflector has quite good throw.


----------



## Wiggle

My LF D26 R2 3-mode is a very decent thrower. Probably not comparable to DBS, Spear etc... but better than any of my other P60 drop-ins.


----------



## old4570

kramer5150 said:


> My experiment failed miserably. Without an IMR cell I am barely getting ~235L out the front of my DX:MC-E. 18650 cell resistance plays a HUGE part in these quad die emitter performance.



Just swap out the driver ... for KD / ProductId=1845
That particular item has a very poor driver .


----------



## bourmb

old4570 said:


> Just swap out the driver ... for KD / ProductId=1845
> That particular item has a very poor driver .


 
I have the driver waiting for arrival from DX on the MCE. Is there somewhere I can educate myself on "how" to swap out the driver? I noticed the two wires on the driver.


----------



## kramer5150

old4570 said:


> Just swap out the driver ... for KD / ProductId=1845
> That particular item has a very poor driver .



I thought about doing that... but I for one don't consider it poor performing at all. Yes it under-drives the quad-die emitter, but in a host this small and this thermally insulative its all together a poor performing setup if you goal is max lumens from the MC-E. I don't really think you can reliably drive the MC-E to its full current capacity, in a P60 host, for long "ON" cycles without it dropping in output from initial cold start.

Personally I am happy with the DX-MC-E performance overall. If I want cooler running ~240 Lumens (my estimation), I can get that using a non-IMR 18650. If I want 350-400L (Thats what Gary measured from my module in his sphere), I can get that too with an IMR cell.


----------



## old4570

bourmb said:


> I have the driver waiting for arrival from DX on the MCE. Is there somewhere I can educate myself on "how" to swap out the driver? I noticed the two wires on the driver.



OK .. 

You unsolder those two wires , then you unsolder the spring on the driver .

You will / should notice 2 solder spots on the outer edge of the driver holding it to the pill . These need to be un-soldered , 

Hopefully you have marked the positive terminal on the LED .. 

Then put in the new driver , solder the wires in place , solder the driver to the pill , solder on the spring , and then I use a 2xAA battery holder to test for function , if all is ok , I put the pill in the flashlight and test again with a multimeter before putting on the tail clicky [ just in case of a short which would most likely kill the clicky switch ]


https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/233845 P60 SSC P7 DIY Guide / Dont be afraid to ask questions .


----------



## cyberspyder

I need the brightest ONE MODE DX drop in there is. I'll be running it for no more than 15-30 seconds at a time, so heat damage is not a problem for me. Which ones have a great throw?

While I love the R2 I have, the 3 mode thing is finicky because its easy to lose my mode and I'll have to start all over, waiting for it to ramp up to max. brightness.

Thanks, Brendan


----------



## CampingLED

cyberspyder said:


> I need the brightest ONE MODE DX drop in there is. I'll be running it for no more than 15-30 seconds at a time, so heat damage is not a problem for me. Which ones have a great throw?
> 
> While I love the R2 I have, the 3 mode thing is finicky because its easy to lose my mode and I'll have to start all over, waiting for it to ramp up to max. brightness.
> 
> Thanks, Brendan


 
15 - 30 secs, this is what I would do.


----------



## cyberspyder

CampingLED said:


> 15 - 30 secs, this is what I would do.



I have a G2 with a G2Z Pyrex lens though...2 CR123's with is more than the max voltage of the board. And I don't need 10


----------



## CampingLED

You can use 17670 batteries and you can buy lower quantities from other sources. Point that I want to make is to rather change the driver than buy another drop-in.

EDIT: Another option is to use this driver.


----------



## kramer5150

Your best bet is DIY, and step up to a 17670 cell
This driver:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.26109

This reflector kit:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5955
alternately this one will work too...
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5937

This LED (I used to get these from Shiningbeam, but I no longer see them for sale on Bryans www store)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11022

The advantage of this setup is the efficiency of the DC board is literally that of the 7135 current driver ICs. Also, there is some degree of 4x redundancy to the circuit. If one 7135 dies, the other 3 will still deliver ~1000mah to the LED.

None of the DX modules come with smooth reflectors... FYI.

Stay away from 11836, they re-tooled the drvier board and its junk now. A co-worker of mine has this one and it barely did 130Lumens on Gary's sphere. Thread here...
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/236337


----------



## cyberspyder

I don't have the luxury of a recharger outdoors, I just need a bright light for 'bumps in the night' moments, or spotting something at night. I can only stay with 123 cells. For a dimmer light, I have my Inova T1. As I said, I only need that 'burst' of lighting.


----------



## kramer5150

cyberspyder said:


> I don't have the luxury of a recharger outdoors, I just need a bright light for 'bumps in the night' moments, or spotting something at night. I can only stay with 123 cells. For a dimmer light, I have my Inova T1. As I said, I only need that 'burst' of lighting.



Did you search through Garys Lumen sphere sticky? He tests a lot of P60 modules for actual lumen output. If you are willing to shop outside of DX, I am sure there is a Deere or Solarforce Q5/R2 module that meets your needs.

These ones here are single mode... but they use P4 emitters or in some cases its unspecified all together, so brightness / efficiency is going to be hit/miss
https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1343
https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6076
https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11810
https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3214
https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4068

Knowing what I now know about the 3.7-18V 11836 module, I would hesitate in recommending any of the other 18V capable drop ins from DX.

How about this one here?
http://www.lighthound.com/Solarforce-LC-1-Drop-In-with-Cree-R2-LED--Single-Mode_p_1633.html

I think its the same one Gary measured at:
Solarforce Cree R2-S__210Lumens__2 primaries__Surefire 6P host
210L on cold start is pretty bright IMHO, my brightest 1.4A DIY-P60 is 205L OTF (in a $15 junk-host, with an old tired 18650 cell)


----------



## glenda17

thr ultrafire wf-501b that comes with thr r2 dropin is brightrer than any P60 I have tried even the C2 MCE P60, and they're only like $18. I goae out 4 for xmas all still working.


----------



## glenda17

old4570 said:


> Just swap out the driver ... for KD / ProductId=1845
> That particular item has a very poor driver .


 

there is no 1845 driver at kaidomain there is a *3V~8V 20mm 1.8A parrallel PCB for MC-E SKU: S008367 is that what you meantt?*


----------



## Black Rose

It's S005025, which is product ID 1845.

Neither of which you can use the KD search to find :thinking:


----------



## old4570

Black Rose said:


> It's S005025, which is product ID 1845.
> 
> Neither of which you can use the KD search to find :thinking:



Hmmmmm , click on any KD product , change the Id no to 1845 in your address bar and viola ...


----------



## glenda17

Thanks playing devils advocate but wouldn't 3500mA fry a P60 form factor?


----------



## Black Rose

old4570 said:


> Hmmmmm , click on any KD product , change the Id no to 1845 in your address bar and viola ...


That's what I did


----------



## kramer5150

glenda17 said:


> Thanks playing devils advocate but wouldn't 3500mA fry a P60 form factor?



yes... given the thermal efficiencies of todays dies.


----------



## cyberspyder

It's settled, I'm going with a one-mode P7 dropin from Nailbender...hope it works well


----------



## jgraham15

cyberspyder said:


> It's settled, I'm going with a one-mode P7 dropin from Nailbender...hope it works well



nailbender built me a one-mode MC-E that I love! You should be very happy with your P7!!! :thumbsup:


----------



## kramer5150

cyberspyder said:


> It's settled, I'm going with a one-mode P7 dropin from Nailbender...hope it works well



:twothumbs He does great work.


----------



## icaruz

kramer5150 said:


> :twothumbs He does great work.



Thats why i ordered SST-50 drop in. Hopefully it will be better than Mce or P7.


----------



## Spypro

Hi !

I'm looking into R2 P60 drop-in for my CL1H V4 or Solarforce L2 host.

I already have a DX sku.11836 in my SFL2 and Dereelight MC-E 2.1A in my CL1H V4 but I want something with pure throw in the P60 size with SMO reflector.

1. What is the drop-in that will be brighter and will throw the best ?

2. I was looking into Dereelight 1S and 3SD. Is there a difference in brightness between them ?

It can use rechargeable 2 x CR123 or 1 x 18650.

Thanks !


----------



## bshanahan14rulz

old4570 said:


> Hmmmmm , click on any KD product , change the Id no to 1845 in your address bar and viola ...



old4570, I was wondering if there was a driver suitable for driving an MC-E off of one 18650 on DX? I was also thinking of getting some amc 1400mA boards and piggybacking the chips for 2.8, but that would only be single mode, it would be better to have a low since high will be used rarely and in short bursts.


----------



## jamesavery22

What drop-in has the most flood? The 4068?


----------



## SFG2Lman

Spypro said:


> Hi !
> 
> I'm looking into R2 P60 drop-in for my CL1H V4 or Solarforce L2 host.
> 
> I already have a DX sku.11836 in my SFL2 and Dereelight MC-E 2.1A in my CL1H V4 but I want something with pure throw in the P60 size with SMO reflector.
> 
> 1. What is the drop-in that will be brighter and will throw the best ?
> 
> 2. I was looking into Dereelight 1S and 3SD. Is there a difference in brightness between them ?
> 
> It can use rechargeable 2 x CR123 or 1 x 18650.
> 
> Thanks !



The 3SD and the 1S will only run in a single cell application (Max voltage of 4.2V which is a fully charged rechargeable). I have one in my solarforce L2 powered by an 18650 and it is one heck of a thrower. I recommend the 3SD with SMO if you are looking for throw, its excellent, and when it does start getting hot you can bump the mode down to medium and not be left in the dark.


----------



## kramer5150

jamesavery22 said:


> What drop-in has the most flood? The 4068?



any of the Malkoff "F" modules have the most flood.


----------



## old4570

bshanahan14rulz said:


> old4570, I was wondering if there was a driver suitable for driving an MC-E off of one 18650 on DX? I was also thinking of getting some amc 1400mA boards and piggybacking the chips for 2.8, but that would only be single mode, it would be better to have a low since high will be used rarely and in short bursts.



DX , you can make a multi mode sandwich driver ..

Or KD / ProductId=1845 [ Click any item on KD and replace the Product Id No with 1845 ] 

Just do a search on CPF , Use AMC 1400 board with a AMC multimode 1A. 
If I can do it [ make a sandwich driver ] anyone can do it . 

Im just waiting on a heatsink , then Im going to see about making a 2.6A 3 mode sandwich driver , I also going to build a 3.8A 5 or 17 mode driver , but these will be for a Mag Mod .. the 2.4A and 2.6A should fit some P60 pills that are deep enough . 

Single die drivers = The KD one / 1845 
or the 2.5A one from shining beam which is currently not showing as available . So keep an eye on shiningbeam.com for the 2.5A 3 mode driver . 

dx/sku.1886 AMC 1400 
dx/sku.6190 + This AMC 5 mode will make 2.4A

KD / ProductId=1694 1.2A 3 Mode + 1400 = Hopefully 2.6A , well , worth a try .. 

 Several options .


----------



## tbenedict

I just received a 6p light with the stock incandescent drop-in. Is the DX 12501 drop-in still a decent unit (with the warm tint)?

Also, being new, can you tell me if I could use the 3.7v 123A rechareable batteries with this drop in? I assume the stock light can only handle the primaries.

Thanks


----------



## jamesavery22

kramer5150 said:


> any of the Malkoff "F" modules have the most flood.



Of the ones available from dealextreme, or any others in the <$15 range, is the 4068 the best choice for flood?


----------



## old4570

tbenedict said:


> I just received a 6p light with the stock incandescent drop-in. Is the DX 12501 drop-in still a decent unit (with the warm tint)?
> 
> Also, being new, can you tell me if I could use the 3.7v 123A rechareable batteries with this drop in? I assume the stock light can only handle the primaries.
> 
> Thanks



(3.6V~12V Input)


----------



## old4570

jamesavery22 said:


> Of the ones available from dealextreme, or any others in the <$15 range, is the 4068 the best choice for flood?



SSC seems to flood more than Cree , though I cant speak for said product , but the reviews seem to support this .


----------



## Beaver_2

Hey guys, I'm a neophyte when it come to buying LED bulbs. I was browsing Deal extreme and I saw a lot of options. Then I came to this thread and found even more!
Currently I have a 6P running on a 5 mode LED from Deal Extreme. It works fine, but the mode switching is getting far annoying for some tasks. I'm currently using RCR123A protected batteries with the set up. I'm willing to switch to 17670 or whatever if it provides better performance and fits my surefire 6P fine. What is the brightest bulb I can get for under $20 shipped? I don't care where its from. I also would like it to have 3 or less modes. 
Thanks guys,
-Beaver_2


----------



## old4570

Solarforce has just come out with a 3 mode drop in ..

0.8v - 4.2v No sos or strobe , just High-Med-Lo 
:welcome:


----------



## Beaver_2

old4570 said:


> Solarforce has just come out with a 3 mode drop in ..
> 
> 0.8v - 4.2v No sos or strobe , just High-Med-Lo
> :welcome:


 

Thanks! Can ya give me a link?

I checked the solarforcestore and they're sold out.
And what battery or battieres are best to use?


----------



## old4570

HERE 

Click on LC-1 new models . 

Im trying to find someone actually selling a body pill combo with the new pill . 

Ive put in a request with one of my fav suppliers .


----------



## Black Rose

Beaver_2 said:


> Thanks! Can ya give me a link?
> 
> I checked the solarforcestore and they're sold out.
> And what battery or battieres are best to use?


solarforcestore no longer sells Solarforce products.

See www.solarforcelights.com


----------



## Beaver_2

Thanks guys, but should I get a 17670 or 2x RCR123As. 
And which bulb is the suited for it?
What does R2 mean and the other abreviations mean?


----------



## old4570

Cree R2 - LED type , R2 is output level ...

CREE P2 (67-73 Lumens @ 350ma) 
CREE P3 (73-80 Lumens @ 350ma) 
CREE P4 (80-87 Lumens @ 350ma) 
CREE Q2 (87-94 Lumens @ 350ma) 
CREE Q3 (94-100 Lumens @ 350ma) 
CREE Q4 (100-107 Lumens @ 350ma) 
CREE Q5 (107-114 Lumens @ 350ma) 
CREE R2 (114-120 Lumens @ 350ma) 

I contacted one of my fav suppliers and hopefully will have a 3mode 0.8-4.2v light by next week . 
 My 9th L2  :thinking:


----------



## baterija

Beaver_2 said:


> Thanks guys, but should I get a 17670 or 2x RCR123As.
> And which bulb is the suited for it?


The new

The new 3 level is 4.2V input max so 2xRCR or 2 primaries is not an option with it but 17670 would work nicely. The older versions can take the higher voltage of 2xRCR/CR123 but I think are only available in 1 and 5 mode versions.


----------



## Beaver_2

What is an R2M?
I looked on the website and saw:
http://www.solarforce.hk/PRD/content.jsp?id=7.1&template=e.tmp.html

The #4 one. "
*"IV. **LC-1 (R2m, 3 modes, 4.2V-8.4V) *- New!!"
*
I assume that will work with my old RCR123a and a 17670? But what does the m stand for after the R2?

And how come this solar force LED has 300 lumes with a 450-600 current. 
http://www.solarforce-shop.com/item.cfm/id/CREE-R2/curr_code/USD
Are they just exaggerating?
*


----------



## baterija

Beaver_2 said:


> What is an R2M?
> 
> The #4 one. "
> *"IV. **LC-1 (R2m, 3 modes, 4.2V-8.4V) *- New!!"
> *
> I assume that will work with my old RCR123a and a 17670? But what does the m stand for after the R2?*


*
*It looks like it's just an internal Solarforce designation for multimode modules. It's on all of the multimode ones. It will work with both although it will drop out of regulation earlier with the 17670 than 2xRCR's depending on the LED's forward voltage.
* 



And how come this solar force LED has 300 lumes with a 450-600 current. 
http://www.solarforce-shop.com/item.cfm/id/CREE-R2/curr_code/USD
Are they just exaggerating?

Click to expand...

*Yes.  They make nice products but not all of the claims are accurate. Jake who is the dealer who's site is linked to above claims 250 instead of the Solarforce 300.


----------



## Beaver_2

I can't seem to find the fourth LC-1 anywhere. I'm now thinking of getting this one:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.21037
I know it doens't support my old batteries, but I can use those in my backup flashlight. Will a 17670 run that bulb okay in my 6P?

Or I could get this one:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.17593
It would allow me to use my old batteries and a 17670. However, is it a lot dimmer than the one mentioned above?

Thanks again guys,
-Beaver_2


----------



## Black Rose

Generic P60 drop-ins do not have fantastic heatsinking capabilities.

The MCE based one linked above will heat up quite quickly and then the output will step down due to the heat.
A 17670 would operate it, but it pulls 2.8 amps on high....that's almost double the recommended draw for regular Li-Ion cells.

The second one may seem dim compared to the first one, but 200 lumens is quite a bit of light.


----------



## old4570

Beaver_2 said:


> What is an R2M?
> I looked on the website and saw:
> http://www.solarforce.hk/PRD/content.jsp?id=7.1&template=e.tmp.html
> 
> The #4 one. "
> *"IV. **LC-1 (R2m, 3 modes, 4.2V-8.4V) *- New!!"
> *
> I assume that will work with my old RCR123a and a 17670? But what does the m stand for after the R2?
> 
> And how come this solar force LED has 300 lumes with a 450-600 current.
> http://www.solarforce-shop.com/item.cfm/id/CREE-R2/curr_code/USD
> Are they just exaggerating?
> *



Higher voltage / less Amps ...

But you would need to factor Watt's Voltage x Amps = Watt's 
a standard light might pull 1A @ 4.2 or 4.2W so if the average R2 pulls say 5W , and you use 2xCR123A rechargeable @ 8.4v = around 600mAh , 2xPrimary would be 6volts and 830mAh ...


----------



## awid

Is the 18650 more powerful then the CR123a?


----------



## old4570

awid said:


> Is the 18650 more powerful then the CR123a?



Powerful , no not as such ... Unless you compare a single 18650 to a single CR123A in which case Yes . Again Variables . 
Regulation is all important to some , 2 x CR123A stay in regulation longer due to higher voltage ..
A 18650 will fall bellow Voltage forward [ Voltage ratting of LED ] , and when this occurs the light will dim as the battery runs down , Higher Voltage of 2 x CR123A helps in this regard .



Now a CR123A primary will have ?? 600mAh to over 1000mAh capacity depending on brand / quality etc ..

A 18650 will have from 1500mAh to ?? lets say 2400mAh and some may go 2800mAh or slightly better . 

Lets say you have 1000mAh CR123A @ 830mAh = 1hour 12minutes give or take other variables 
Rechargable CR123A may have 600mAh capacity , so will last 1 hour [ give or take ] 

so a 18650 @ 1.2A [ 2400mAh batt ] is going to last 2 hours , again forgetting about all the variables . 

Thats as simple as I can make it , + the fact that a single 18650 is a lot safer than 2 x CR123A ...

Do a search on Li-ion safety .. 
A single 18650 is going to be safer every day of the week , when put up against dual CR123A's ..

SO two things to consider , Safety + Capacity , some people like the 6volt or 8.4volt option , others such as myself , just swap out the driver for a 4.2v one and live happily ever after with a single 18650 , or just buy 18650 dedicated lights .


----------



## dirtech

Anyone notice this from kaidoman yet: http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=9770. XPE with q35a. I assume its a single mode but who knows?


----------



## jenskh

*"CREE XPE-Q3 5A Warm White 5-mode LED Lamp Cap Dia.:26.5mm 3.7*4.2V (OP Aluminum)..."

*How can you assume this is 1- mode? *
*


----------



## Winx

The description is updated. There was nothing about modes or voltage before.


----------



## dirtech

jenskh said:


> *"CREE XPE-Q3 5A Warm White 5-mode LED Lamp Cap Dia.:26.5mm 3.7*4.2V (OP Aluminum)..."
> 
> *How can you assume this is 1- mode? *
> *



No mention of multimodes maybe, but like I said who knows.


----------



## bourmb

What is the latest in technology for a p60 pill? XRE, etc? I would like a resonably priced P60 pill used for my Solarforce L2 running off 1-18650. The pill needs to be a thrower. I am using it on a bicycle along with two other Solarforce L2's using MC-E drop-ins. I prefer a cool tint, too. I currently have the Solarforce R2 dropin that came with the flashlight, but I am not too impressed. The more lumens, the better.


----------



## cyberspyder

I have a P9, but the bigger die compared to a R2 and coupled with a P60 styled reflector is pretty much the pinnacle of P60 drop-ins...the reflector is just too small in diameter and in depth.


----------



## old4570

bourmb said:


> What is the latest in technology for a p60 pill? XRE, etc? I would like a resonably priced P60 pill used for my Solarforce L2 running off 1-18650. The pill needs to be a thrower. I am using it on a bicycle along with two other Solarforce L2's using MC-E drop-ins. I prefer a cool tint, too. I currently have the Solarforce R2 dropin that came with the flashlight, but I am not too impressed. The more lumens, the better.



So you want more flood / spill ? Rather than throw .

SSC P4 / Luxeon K2 TFFC / MC-E / SSC P7 .


----------



## Black Rose

bourmb said:


> The pill needs to be a thrower.
> 
> I currently have the Solarforce R2 dropin that came with the flashlight, but I am not too impressed.


As cyberspyder mentioned, the reflector size is the limiting factor as far as throw is concerned with P60 drop-ins.

My modified P60 drop-ins are good for several hundred feet, but I am walking not riding a bike.


----------



## bshanahan14rulz

seems to me that xp-e, with a less forward pattern and a more lambertian spread than the xr-e, would throw more light at the reflector, and hence put out a brighter hotspot, although I'm not so sure that it would even be noticeable...

I've got a cree that lost it's ring and dome, and has all the gel scraped off of it. Phosphor is still intact, and the thing doesn't look like it lost much intensity, if any. I'm waiting to have enough money to order a 13mm mcpcb to try it out in a p60 dropin with smo reflector. I'm thinking tight hotspot, as the emitting area looks about 1/9th the size (eyeballing it)


----------



## ptolemy

Hi guys

what's the best/reasonbly priced 5 stage drop-in to run off 18650x2

I currently have lighthound dropin running on cr123's and I like it, but i want to switch to 18650's (via extender) and if there is something better, get that drop-in

I prefer a balance of throw and flood but i really like a tight spot, no hollowness at all

thanx:>

p.s i checked 10-15 of the various ones posted here, but i simply cannot figure out the better ones


----------



## old4570

ptolemy said:


> Hi guys
> 
> what's the best/reasonbly priced 5 stage drop-in to run off 18650x2
> 
> I currently have lighthound dropin running on cr123's and I like it, but i want to switch to 18650's (via extender) and if there is something better, get that drop-in
> 
> I prefer a balance of throw and flood but i really like a tight spot, no hollowness at all
> 
> thanx:>
> 
> p.s i checked 10-15 of the various ones posted here, but i simply cannot figure out the better ones



Some luck involved ..
But if you want a tight spot @ R2 5Mode 
Also you may consider XP-E R2 - The one from DX was 8.4v , may still be .
Should offer good runtime with a 2 x 18650 

Otherwise consider a DIY .. SSC P4 / Luxeon K2 TFFC or wait a little longer for Cree XP-G R3/R4


----------



## ptolemy

old4570 said:


> Some luck involved ..
> But if you want a tight spot @ R2 5Mode
> Also you may consider XP-E R2 - The one from DX was 8.4v , may still be .
> Should offer good runtime with a 2 x 18650
> 
> Otherwise consider a DIY .. SSC P4 / Luxeon K2 TFFC or wait a little longer for Cree XP-G R3/R4


 ya i can wait

any eta on it?


----------



## old4570

ptolemy said:


> ya i can wait
> 
> any eta on it?



Maybe next week , :twothumbs


----------



## bugsy714

*What DX mc-e drop-in fits a solarforce l2 with 18650?*

Hello to all,

I tried searching dx but could not figure out what mc-e drop-in to buy for a solarforce l2 (6p clone) running on an 18650?


----------



## bigchelis

*Re: What DX mc-e drop-in fits a solarforce l2 with 18650?*

Here you go...
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.21037

MrGman tested it for out the front lumens.

With an IMR 18650 it did 348 out the front 



With a IMR 16340 it did 340 out the front

FYI: The Malkoff P60 P7 drop-in (no longer made) did 383 out the front. So, it is not that bad considering how much better heatsink the Malkoff unit has.


----------



## bugsy714

*Re: What DX mc-e drop-in fits a solarforce l2 with 18650?*

Sweet, thanks for the link!

I noticed the cells used by mrgman were imr or unprotected li, are protected li cells going to work with this drop-in?


----------



## hyperloop

*Re: What DX mc-e drop-in fits a solarforce l2 with 18650?*

Hi there, i got this dropin, used it in an Ultrafire host running off a generic Trustfire protected 18650 and it runs fine, it *will not* work with 2x16340s, it just flickers in that configuration, havent tried it with 1x16340 and some spacers though. hmmmmmmmm


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: What DX mc-e drop-in fits a solarforce l2 with 18650?*



hyperloop said:


> Hi there, i got this dropin, used it in an Ultrafire host running off a generic Trustfire protected 18650 and it runs fine, it *will not* work with 2x16340s, it just flickers in that configuration, havent tried it with 1x16340 and some spacers though. hmmmmmmmm



Specs for the DX-MCE (SKU:21037) are as follows:

1 x 18650, or 1 x 3.0V/3.6V CR123A battery
So its DEFINITELY not designed for 8.4V... The flickering you see is the circuit screaming at you "OUCH... that hurts!!"


----------



## Fizz753

Hey guys and gals and others (I'll let you decide where you want to land on that one). I got sidetracked and busy for the last couple of months and only managed to make a couple of visits so there has been almost no list updates for a some time. Sorry about that, or did anyone even notice :thinking:. Anyway I'll see what I can do about updating the prices that have changed this week some time. And as always if I am missing something toss me a PM and I'll get it added in.


----------



## kramer5150

Fizz753 said:


> Hey guys and gals and others (I'll let you decide where you want to land on that one). I got sidetracked and busy for the last couple of months and only managed to make a couple of visits so there has been almost no list updates for a some time. Sorry about that, or did anyone even notice :thinking:. Anyway I'll see what I can do about updating the prices that have changed this week some time. And as always if I am missing something toss me a PM and I'll get it added in.



No Prob....
You should be aware that DXs' supplier made some changes to the _once _GREAT SKU:11836.... thread here. According to one member who tested his in Garys sphere, the current rendition 11836 barely emits 120L OTF after a minute or two of thermal warming.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/236337


----------



## Black Rose

I have a need for an infrared light.

What would be the better option: get an infrared lense/filter for my existing drop-in(s) or get an actual infrared drop-in?

EDIT: Did a bit of digging and it appears that a dedicated P60 IR drop-in is the way to go.


----------



## bansuri

*Cree XLamp XP-C-R2 5-Mode 90-Lumen Memory Red Light Drop-in LED Module (38mm*26mm/8.4*

Just got this drop-in from DX: Cree XLamp XP-C-R2 5-Mode 90-Lumen Memory Red Light Drop-in LED Module (38mm*26mm/8.4V Max)

I'm a newish flashoholic and was curious to see the effects of using colored lights and how it affects our night vision so I ordered one of these and a red filter for my Fenix TK20.
I got the Fenix filter and my initial thoughts were that it seemed to work OK but I'd wait and do a side-by-side comparison. The drop-in arrived and I popped it in to the host. I chose this model since it had a voltage range of 2.8~8.4V and I have a single RCR123 host that I wanted to use it in for around the house. 
The Fenix filter looks orange compared to the output of this drop-in. 
The drop-in cycles through hi-med-low-strobe-sos. I guess they just slapped it on a board that was handy as I just can't think of a practical use for the disco modes, but I'm new at this...
The high is probably waaaaayyyy too bright to be useful in a situation where you're trying to preserve your night-vision but will be a lot of fun at Halloween. Even the low is pretty bright, I'll get back with some unscientific tests later.
The memory works correctly so far.
If used for close-up nighttime tasks a diffuser would be helpful to spread the useful light around as there is an extreme hotspot when used with my Surefire.

Summary:
-Red, RED output.
-Very bright, may need a diffuser.
-Mode memory,
-I feel that the quality is a notch or two above some of the other DX drop-ins I've got as the Positive (+) terminal spring is soldered securely to a large trace on the PCB which has NO exposed surface-mount components unlike some others I have. I have one that has the spring mounted to the top of an IC via a build-up of solder from a couple legs. ugh.


I'll post some beamshots tonight.


----------



## yuk

*Re: Cree XLamp XP-C-R2 5-Mode 90-Lumen Memory Red Light Drop-in LED Module (38mm*26mm*

I am looking for a reliable P60 host dropin with great throw! 
Any recommendations? :devil:


----------



## Superdave

the Lumens factory R2 single mode has excellent throw. The best i've seen from any P60 assembly. 

the hotspot is so bright that i ended up buying a SF diffuser so that i could use it for close up work.


----------



## trdsupragt

*Re: Looking for P60 sized bulb using 3V 123A*

Hey guys, I've got a 3V SureFire weapon light that I'd like to convert to LED. I was wondering which bulb would provide the most amount of light on a single 3v 123A battery. I'd also like for it to be as inexpensive as possible as well.

Thanks!


----------



## Justin Case

Do you care about reliability for your weaponlight, or just want output and cheap price?


----------



## trdsupragt

Reliability isn't as much of a concern for me, but would be nice I suppose. What are my options?


----------



## old4570

Its the nature of the beast : All R2's throw rather well .. [ P60 ]

Just depends : What your other needs are ..

Battery Life ? XP-E R2 - I have 3 XP-E drop ins , they cant compete with HOT R2's , but will compare to stock XR-E R2's running around 1A for throw . 

A good hot R2 [ 1.5A ] is hard to beat [ P60 ] for throw . 

The XP-G R4 is just around the corner [ There is talk of 350Lumen ] and it certainly sounds interesting , I talked to the importer here , and they have a delivery date , so hopefully it wont be to long before I get my hands on a R3 and a R4 XP-G , the P60 pill is ready and waiting .


----------



## Hwy115

I have a 10 year old Surefire6P. I want to get a drop in LED setup for the light. The bulb I would like would be very powerful with decent runtime. I have AW R17670 1600 mah and I have AW RCR123A 750 mah batteries. What is the bottom line best drop in for this unit? I have a P61 in my light right now. Can I use the AW's with the P61 bulb? 
Thanks,
Steve


----------



## AFAustin

old4570 said:


> The XP-G R4 is just around the corner [ There is talk of 350Lumen ] and it certainly sounds interesting , I talked to the importer here , and they have a delivery date , so hopefully it wont be to long before I get my hands on a R3 and a R4 XP-G , the P60 pill is ready and waiting .



I'm in the market for a drop-in for a C2 myself, and was wondering about XP-G R4 availability. I sent an e-mail inquiry to Lumens Factory, and they replied quickly. The good news is they will be making an XP-G R4 drop-in, but the bad news is that it may be a few months. (I'm no modder, so no DIY for me.)


----------



## old4570

The XP-G's have arrived , picked up a R3 and two R5's this morning ....

Im not sure , but am I the first flashaholic with some R5's ?


----------



## Black Rose

old4570 said:


> Im not sure , but am I the first flashaholic with some R5's ?


Depends if 4Sevens already has his.

Considering his name was in the Cree press release, I'm guessing you might not be first in line


----------



## old4570

Black Rose said:


> Depends if 4Sevens already has his.
> 
> Considering his name was in the Cree press release, I'm guessing you might not be first in line


 I was thinking more along the line of Retail Purchase !


----------



## outersquare

i just got the DX XPE R2 drop in, it is quite good,

their website description is wrong, the sticker says 4.2V-8.4V
tried it in both G2/6PDL

the beam is very smooth, 
not ringy like the older DX XRE R2

hotspot is smaller/hotter than E2DL
but more/brighter spill

fit is perfect size without spring
does not leave gap between head/bezel

recommended

ed; current draw at tail on hi ~1.0 amp


----------



## notsobrite

i don't know if this has been mentioned, but nailbender has the new xp-g r4 in hand. i ordered a p60 dropin and it hopefully might be here this week here is a link to his post. 

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/239719


----------



## outersquare

yes, someone hurry and make an XPG S2 P60 module


----------



## SFG2Lman

outersquare said:


> yes, someone hurry and make an XPG S2 P60 module



that should read "yes, malkoff hurry and make an XPG S2 P60 module" i cannot wait for that day...


----------



## mfrey

SFG2Lman said:


> that should read "yes, malkoff hurry and make an XPG S2 P60 module" i cannot wait for that day...



I really hope Gene migrates to the XP-G also. I'm holding off on any P60 upgrade purchases until I see what he does in the next few months.


----------



## notsobrite

old4570 said:


> The XP-G's have arrived , picked up a R3 and two R5's this morning ....
> 
> Im not sure , but am I the first flashaholic with some R5's ?



so... how do you like them?


----------



## sparktastic

I have taken delivery of some XPG's on the 10mm pad from cutter.
I mounted the XPG R4 into the DX (originally XPE) P60 Drop-in.
The result?

Very dissapointing! 

Despite the Drop-in reflector hole matching the size of the XPG perfectly, the XPG emitter is the same size as the XPE, the resultant pattern and output was horrible. The hotspot is virtually non existant, no matter how far in or out the emitters dome extends into the reflector, it seems impossible to focus the beam. The light output was somewhat dissapointing too. 

I have to say, that so far I have been very dissapointed with the XPE/XPG sized emitter for flashlight use. 

Having said all that, the XPG would probably be a cloud burner with a 50+mm glass aspheric lens.. It just doesn't seem that these emitters work all that well with reflector style flashlights.


----------



## ionizedsky

Well maybe Gene will have some better luck with these than


----------



## kramer5150

sparktastic said:


> I have taken delivery of some XPG's on the 10mm pad from cutter.
> I mounted the XPG R4 into the DX (originally XPE) P60 Drop-in.
> The result?
> 
> Very dissapointing!
> 
> Despite the Drop-in reflector hole matching the size of the XPG perfectly, the XPG emitter is the same size as the XPE, the resultant pattern and output was horrible. The hotspot is virtually non existant, no matter how far in or out the emitters dome extends into the reflector, it seems impossible to focus the beam. The light output was somewhat dissapointing too.
> 
> I have to say, that so far I have been very dissapointed with the XPE/XPG sized emitter for flashlight use.
> 
> Having said all that, the XPG would probably be a cloud burner with a 50+mm glass aspheric lens.. It just doesn't seem that these emitters work all that well with reflector style flashlights.



I wouldn't give up hope just yet... my best white wall hunters are my XP-E lights. They have a very smooth transition from the center spot, no rings, or artifacts at all. I think you might be using a poorly designed reflector.

Have you tried comparing the XP-G output with ceiling bounce?


----------



## old4570

There is no real hotspot as with a Cree XR-E ..

The XP-E has a nice tight hotspot that allows for throw ..

The XP-G on the other hand is mostly Flood in XR-E or XP-E drop ins .. 

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3106348&postcount=26 = Beamshots ... 

There will have to be a new reflector design for XP-G .
Or find an old one that works ..


----------



## sparktastic

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/member.php?u=65642Nice work old4570.

Yes, I got similar results to your beamshots.

Am looking forward to this baby arriving:
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut858

Hopefully this optic will provide the pattern and efficiency I am looking for in the XPG package..


----------



## kramer5150

old4570 said:


> There is no real hotspot as with a Cree XR-E ..
> 
> The XP-E has a nice tight hotspot that allows for throw ..
> 
> The XP-G on the other hand is mostly Flood in XR-E or XP-E drop ins ..
> 
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3106348&postcount=26 = Beamshots ...
> 
> There will have to be a new reflector design for XP-G .
> Or find an old one that works ..



Hey old great DIY work!! informative as always.

This one here looks like it could be a really useful drop in





Can you elaborate a little how you made it? what parts did you use to make it?

Do you think the non-XPG optimized reflector obstructs light, and prevents it from getting out?

thanks


----------



## old4570

That drop in pushes over 300Lumen OTF , runs about 1.5A ..

I used the KD XP-E empty P60 style host ..
And a driver that is direct drive on high .

And the LED is the XP-G R5 .

It throws well , but not quite as well as the XR-E R2 ..

Im going to do another but with a 1A driver .

No the XP-E reflector does not obstruct light , its just the XP-G itself , the LED design is more flood than throw , there is plenty of light , its just not focused into a tight beam like with XR-E . So either they need a new lens for the emitter or a new reflector design for XP-G , if you want throw .

I put the XP-G R3 in my ultrafire A20 and I dont think Ive lost any throw over the Q5 that was in there , but there is a heck of a lot more flood now . 
I should see how a LENS works with the R5 ..
You can see from the picture , it really lights things up [ R5 ] in front of you , but in a wider beam , as to whether some one might like it more or less over a XR-E R2 ?? 

For me , I like it , more output , more flood , and still good throw , but in a wider , more useful beam that really lights things up .. 

Its apples and oranges .. + I would love to see a reflector that tightens up the beam to at least equal a good XR-E R2 .

I lensed the XP-G R5 and its about the same as a XR-E R2 Lensed ..[ Solarforce L2 ]


----------



## kosPap

old4570 said:


> Its apples and oranges .. + I would love to see a reflector that tightens up the beam to at least equal a good XR-E R2 .


 
My A20B came with a SMO reflector..we will see how it turns out



old4570 said:


> I lensed the XP-G R5 and its about the same as a XR-E R2 Lensed ..[ Solarforce L2 ]


 
Now I got to ask for links to...


----------



## old4570

XP-G R5 Lensed ...


----------



## Flash_25296

I am looking for a SSC P4 drop-in and noticed this was on the list
http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4068, it is listed as a SSC 42180-U 3W Emitter Reflector Driver Module. Is the 42180 the bin code? and is this a P4? I am not as familiar with the SSC offerings and was kind of surprised to see that 90% of drop-in's are Cree.

Has anyone else built or used an SSC P4 emitter for a p60 Drop In?

Would I be happier building my own pill from parts and ordering a better SSC emitter? I have the tools and the knowledge to build the pill but not always the time.


----------



## Black Rose

Flash_25296 said:


> I am looking for a SSC P4 drop-in and noticed this was on the list
> http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4068, it is listed as a SSC 42180-U 3W Emitter Reflector Driver Module. Is the 42180 the bin code? and is this a P4?


42180 simply indiactes that it is using a "bare" emitter, not a SSC star (which would be 42181).

U is the bin code.


----------



## tbenedict

Does any one know if there is an alternate source to get the DX 12501 5AQ2 drop-in? I have not heard of one from KD, but I need to find a warm tint in that price range for around the house. 

Apparently I have 2 RCR123's and a charger on the way but they are not sure when these will be available again. I have a stock 6P.

Thanks!


----------



## kavvika

None that I know of, but since DX is back in stock, why not order from them? Or, if you're willing to spend a bit more, order a Q4 5A Dereelight module from flashlightconnection.com. KD does have a Q2 5A X*P*-E module, but it's currently backordered.


----------



## Winx

3.7V~4.2V CREE XPG R5 WC LED 5-mode Lamp Cap drop-in at Kaidomain.

Again a finned reflector like in MC-E drop-in but not that bad.

Hopefully Dereelight will make a proper drop-in. Well, Malkoff also, but no deal with a $35 shipping.


----------



## kosPap

well one wonder on the speed the chinese manufacturers respond...my cutter order is not here yet and KD alrady has mounted XP-Gs


----------



## old4570

Wow , what a nice hotspot , and so small , one has to wonder if its really a XP-G beamshot .


----------



## sparktastic

XPG's at KD:

Drop-in:
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=10064

502B with XPG Drop-in:
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=10066

The current and Luman ratings are interesting:
*
1.*NO.:XPGWHT-LE-0000-00H51
*2.*3.0V~3.75V,
3.0V-350mA/h-139LM
 3.2V-700mA/h
 3.7V-1000mA/h-148LM
*3.*6500K~6600K 

The lower Vf of the XPG shows up in the 1A current draw at 3.7v.
But, at this current the XPG should be producing well over 250 lumans, not
148!

Look forward to some more accurate tests and beamshot on these..


----------



## ptolemy

anything else, decent coming?

i want one for my bored 6p running off 1 18650.

i'd ideally like multimode


----------



## berry580

sorry, im a newbie with led emitters.
From my understanding, general rule is that for an emitter, the smaller the emitter, the less throw it would produce, ceteris paribus, right?

Now by visual inspection, my XP-G R5 emitter is actually similar in size compared to my XR-E Q5 and given that the XP-G R5's has higher rated lumens than XR-E Q5's, how come come the XR-E Q5's are still deemed to be capable of less throw?

Now I'm not trying to challenge this fact, but I'm trying to understand *why* the XR-E Q5's are deemed to be capable of less throw despite having less lumens and similar emitter size, ceteris paribus?

thank you, sorry for the noobness.



old4570 said:


> There is no real hotspot as with a Cree XR-E ..
> 
> The XP-E has a nice tight hotspot that allows for throw ..
> 
> The XP-G on the other hand is mostly Flood in XR-E or XP-E drop ins ..
> 
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3106348&postcount=26 = Beamshots ...
> 
> There will have to be a new reflector design for XP-G .
> Or find an old one that works ..


----------



## kosPap

hmm I cannot follow your exact words but I got the gist...

Emitter size indeed counts...but the smaller the better thrower is for the GIVEN output...I cannot explain it properly but an approximation would be....the die emmitts light to the front and side...the reflecor catches the side one and reirects it in the center in a tighter beam....the light evading the reflector will jump forward and the larger the die -with the same output- the less photons will be emitted per surface...something like "photon density" or "photon pressure" akin to "water pressure".

Now a larger but nrighter die will can make up for...

I would not trust die appeearence to the eye...after all you see it under a lens....
Proper reference can be dound in the Cree Datasheets...there you can see the die dimensions and the light distribution (indeed the XPG and MCE have similar ones between them and wider than the XRE

thus the call for new reflectors...


----------



## berry580

ah.... so its got to do with the direction of the light that's coming out from the emitter, that makes sense.

true, a new reflector design is clearly needed, or this emitter would just be wasted.


----------



## csadzuki

Hi! I know that everyone is crazy about the XP-Gs these days :nana:, but I think some of you might be still interested in *Warm White* drop-ins... 

I received this one from KD today:
CREE XPE-Q3 5A Warm White 5-mode. I think it's really nice, and would recommend adding it to the first post!


----------



## tbenedict

csadzuki said:


> Hi! I know that everyone is crazy about the XP-Gs these days :nana:, but I think some of you might be still interested in *Warm White* drop-ins...
> 
> I received this one from KD today:
> CREE XPE-Q3 5A Warm White 5-mode. I think it's really nice, and would recommend adding it to the first post!


Does the actual product match the voltage description? I am trying to find one of these to use in my 6P, but it appears 2 RCR123's would be too much for this. Does anyone no how long a single RCR123 would last with one of those aluminum spacers?


----------



## csadzuki

tbenedict said:


> Does the actual product match the voltage description? I am trying to find one of these to use in my 6P, but it appears 2 RCR123's would be too much for this.



2xRCR123 (or even 2xCR123) would be too much for this one. I think your best option is to run this on 1x17670. I measured 700 mA at the tailcap on high with a slightly used AW17670 cell in my G2Z. You can estimate the runtime on a single RCR123 from this.


----------



## WHT_GE8

Looking for a drop in for my Solarforce L2. Im favoring the DX MC-E but do not want to deal with the heating issue, and for the price its almost worth it. Would I better off spending the extra bucks for the M60F? How much brighter is the DX MC-E? Looking for the brightest all flood beam.  Read through some pages on here but most of the talk was about volts and amps which is all greek to me...


----------



## jake25

The thing about MCE dropins is that, due to the heat, you can't drive them very hard. On top of that , the small reflector doesn't make for a very tight hotspot and often has doughnuts in the beam.

The best bet is to get a XPG dropin which you can drive very hard and still heatsink, also you can focus the emitter well. You might lose a bit of lumens/output but the runtime and heat are much more managable than MCE dropins.


----------



## WHT_GE8

Is the XP-G a dedicated flooder? How many lumens is it? And doesn't it have a greenish tint like the quarks?


----------



## jake25

WHT_GE8 said:


> Is the XP-G a dedicated flooder? How many lumens is it? And doesn't it have a greenish tint like the quarks?


Not all XPGs are the same. Compared to the XRE and XPE the XPG might be a bit floodier due to the different size in footprint.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

The SSC P4 LED is still the flood king.


----------



## WHT_GE8

This one? http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4068

Unfortunately its back-ordered :mecry:

Anything that could give me similiar output? Needs to be 100% plug and play, no heat issues, and very floody ~200 lumen beam.


----------



## tbenedict

csadzuki said:


> 2xRCR123 (or even 2xCR123) would be too much for this one. I think your best option is to run this on 1x17670. I measured 700 mA at the tailcap on high with a slightly used AW17670 cell in my G2Z. You can estimate the runtime on a single RCR123 from this.


 
How does the beam look? I really like the beam of the stock P60, but I want to use rechargeables.


----------



## csadzuki

tbenedict said:


> How does the beam look? I really like the beam of the stock P60, but I want to use rechargeables.



Ok, I tried to take a beamshot, and I learned three things today:

I suck at taking beamshots :shakehead
I need a bigger apartment :tired:
Yesterday, the AW17670 cell was more discharged than I tought. Today I measured 800 mA with a freshly charged cell (4.18V open circuit voltage).

Anyway, here is the beamshot (Q3 5A drop-in on the left, P60 on the right, both on fresh cells):





Hope it helps! :wave:


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

If nothing else that picture shows the LED has boocoo spill light!!!


----------



## kramer5150

csadzuki said:


> Ok, I tried to take a beamshot, and I learned three things today:
> 
> I suck at taking beamshots :shakehead
> I need a bigger apartment :tired:
> Yesterday, the AW17670 cell was more discharged than I tought. Today I measured 800 mA with a freshly charged cell (4.18V open circuit voltage).
> 
> Anyway, here is the beamshot (Q3 5A drop-in on the left, P60 on the right, both on fresh cells):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it helps! :wave:



Hard to tell from the over-exposed hot spot... but the color and brightness look close to the P60.

FWIW, heres DX:12501(Q2-5A) on the left and DX:3218 (Xenon LA) on the right. The limited side flood of the 12501 is caused by the shock bezel obstruction of my M2.






DX:12501

DX:3218


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

I can't take credible beam shots or I would show you 4068 against Q5 and/or R2.

4068 is much floodier, but Q and R do have lotsa spill.


----------



## Black Rose

I made my own Cree Q3-5C based P60 drop-in on Sunday.

Good amount of spill but obviously not as bright as my R2 based drop-ins.

Shining it on shrubbery shows really good colour rendition, but what I found really shows the difference in colours was lighting up terra cotta pots with the Q3 and then the R2.


----------



## rustys36

I have had it with the DX 17593 p60 drop-in "adjustable" user interface. Is there a mod that always power the light on to the highest setting?


----------



## Black Rose

rustys36 said:


> I have had it with the DX 17593 p60 drop-in "adjustable" user interface. Is there a mod that always power the light on to the highest setting?


You could replace the circuit board with a 1050 mA AMC7135 board.


----------



## rustys36

It seems that I remember a comment from years ago on the DX 17593...that if you moved one of the wires it would defeat the adjustable feature and provide a high level output only. I have tried searching CPF and the web for the mod without luck.


----------



## kosPap

well on of the exposedchips regulates modes for sure...search for the thread on modyfying the Dx 15880 baord in the electronics forum, if you need to know how-to


----------



## Fizz753

Greetings. 
List has been updated, prices & links fixed etc. Also added the Battery Junction and Kaidomain 10064 / 9770 dropins. 
Please let me know about anything else as I have not had a lot of time to keep up on things the last few months.


----------



## Flash_25296

I just wanted to say that if you purchase the Cree MC-E LED 3-Mode 410-Lumen Drop-in Module w/Copper Heatsink Base from DX plan on buying another reflector. The reflector that comes with this module creates a terrible set of rings. I purchased this as well as the Cree Q5 LED Drop-in Module (3.7V~18V Input) and when I switched reflectors the rings are virtually non-existent I also tested with my Deree CL1H OP reflector and also very good performance with no rings. If you are going to spend $24 bucks on a MC-E P60 dropin its worth the extra few bucks for a good reflector.


----------



## kosPap

maybe....indeed it is ringy and it is Orange peel too! But according to my tests with Cree OP amd smooth reflectors the original reflector still has the tightest spot...


----------



## Flash_25296

kosPap said:


> maybe....indeed it is ringy and it is Orange peel too! But according to my tests with Cree OP amd smooth reflectors the original reflector still has the tightest spot...



Ok I will have to play around with it more to see.


----------



## Fichtenelch

Flash_25296 said:


> I just wanted to say that if you purchase the Cree MC-E LED 3-Mode 410-Lumen Drop-in Module w/Copper Heatsink Base from DX plan on buying another reflector. The reflector that comes with this module creates a terrible set of rings. I purchased this as well as the Cree Q5 LED Drop-in Module (3.7V~18V Input) and when I switched reflectors the rings are virtually non-existent I also tested with my Deree CL1H OP reflector and also very good performance with no rings. If you are going to spend $24 bucks on a MC-E P60 dropin its worth the extra few bucks for a good reflector.




Got the same DX MC-E Dropin, but it's pulling only ~400 mA...So, need to change the driver...and the reflector


----------



## kramer5150

Fichtenelch said:


> Got the same DX MC-E Dropin, but it's pulling only ~400 mA...So, need to change the driver...and the reflector



Somethings wrong if your DX-MCE is only pulling .4A. This module should draw 2.65A with an AW-IMR. IMR cells are the only way to get the 350-400L OTF. With my red Sanyo 18650 cells it draws 2.35A, those are my lowest resistance non-IMR cells. Even my highest resistance 18650 cells (Sony, Samsung, Trustfire-whites) still deliver ~1.2A.

So if you are only drawing .4A, you might want to thoroughly inspect your host and 18650 cell in addition to the DC-DC board.


----------



## Fichtenelch

kramer5150 said:


> Somethings wrong if your DX-MCE is only pulling .4A. This module should draw 2.65A with an AW-IMR. IMR cells are the only way to get the 350-400L OTF. With my red Sanyo 18650 cells it draws 2.35A, those are my lowest resistance non-IMR cells. Even my highest resistance 18650 cells (Sony, Samsung, Trustfire-whites) still deliver ~1.2A.
> 
> So if you are only drawing .4A, you might want to thoroughly inspect your host and 18650 cell in addition to the DC-DC board.



Already tried it with an AW Cell, also my alternate trustfire cells power my mte p7 worklight with 2.3 Amps, which is limited by the driver in this case. Battery seems not to be the problem on that MC-E Drop-in, i think more that the driver is.. When did you get your DX MC-E? Already heard of some recently done changes on these drop-ins, it's also somewhere in a thread here with the output comparison.


----------



## kramer5150

Fichtenelch said:


> Already tried it with an AW Cell, also my alternate trustfire cells power my mte p7 worklight with 2.3 Amps, which is limited by the driver in this case. Battery seems not to be the problem on that MC-E Drop-in, i think more that the driver is.. When did you get your DX MC-E? Already heard of some recently done changes on these drop-ins, it's also somewhere in a thread here with the output comparison.



Mine is relatively old. bigchelis bought this one when they first came out. He sent it to Gary to measure and it did 397L OTF on a cold start, but dropped to 350L after 1-2 minutes. On Low it measured 150L. All testing was done with an AW-IMR. At some point the soldering cracked on this module so bigc sent it to nailbender to repair it. I bought this one from bigc a little while after that, and it has served me very well the past ~14 months in an 18650 modded 6P.

In all honesty, I don't really use it THAT much on Hi. I mainly use it at the lower 150L setting, I don't want to overheat the emitter.

Yeah DX's suppliers have been known to make un-announced changes to their product... many times for the worse

But definitely, .4A draw is way too low for this module. Sounds like you have a solid grasp on it though. I also suspect your DC-DC board is bonkos.

:thumbsup:


----------



## Fichtenelch

kramer5150 said:


> Mine is relatively old. bigchelis bought this one when they first came out. He sent it to Gary to measure and it did 397L OTF on a cold start, but dropped to 350L after 1-2 minutes. On Low it measured 150L. All testing was done with an AW-IMR. At some point the soldering cracked on this module so bigc sent it to nailbender to repair it. I bought this one from bigc a little while after that, and it has served me very well the past ~14 months in an 18650 modded 6P.
> 
> In all honesty, I don't really use it THAT much on Hi. I mainly use it at the lower 150L setting, I don't want to overheat the emitter.
> 
> Yeah DX's suppliers have been known to make un-announced changes to their product... many times for the worse
> 
> But definitely, .4A draw is way too low for this module. Sounds like you have a solid grasp on it though. I also suspect your DC-DC board is bonkos.
> 
> :thumbsup:



Yeah, think so...I'm going to replace it as soon as i get some 7135-circuit boards and put something over 2 amps on it...


----------



## wwglen

I just got a SureFire 6P and want to put something into it. I have a couple of the DX 11836's and the DX 17593's in some other lights but I would like somthiing with a fairly moderate output (40 Lumens) and a LONG run time. 

Is there anything that meets this in a drop in? (Prefeably CHEAP).

wwglen


----------



## Policetacteam

Ok, I apologize for only having read through the first 5 pages but I'm curious why at the beginning of this thread the several examples on the Lumens Factory website there is no mention of how many lumens. I'm considering a P60drop-in from them, single mode, but I would like to know how many lumens they are outputting.


----------



## Justin Case

See MrGman's sticky with his integrated sphere measurements. The LF D26 drop-in is listed there.


----------



## Flash_25296

Fichtenelch said:


> Got the same DX MC-E Dropin, but it's pulling only ~400 mA...So, need to change the driver...and the reflector



I received my MC-E P60 Drop in from DX on Firday Nov 6th, ordered Oct 21!

I have measured the tail cap current draw on mine with 2 freshly charged AW 18650's of the 2200 mAh variety, less than 1 year old, maybe 5-8 cycles each. The best of each is posted below.

I have used 2 P60 hosts: Dereelight CL1H V4 (DL) & Ultra Fire 504B (UF)

MC-E Results:
High: DL 1.85 A; UF 1.88 A
Low: DL .183 A; UF .187 A
Seizure mode: DL .430 A; UF .425 A

Well below the rated max current and advertised modes:
Hi (2800mA, 410LM) > Lo (1000mA, 100LM) > Strobe (1500mA, 200LM)

Perhaps the internal resistance of my batteries are the limiting factor for not achieving the advertised modes. I will try later with a bench top power supply and see what I get. My guess is they changed the driver and now the actual performance is lower then advertised.

Anyone know what driver module is in this pill? I will probably tear into it anyway but it would be nice to know ahead of time what I was looking at.


----------



## kramer5150

Since this is getting some attention, I set up this informal test to try and show how much current draw can vary depending on the cell used.

Pics...











Host: Modded 6P with a ~1 year old DX-MCE drop in.

Cells from L-R
AW-IMR (I have two on loan, but only 1 is pictured... thanks Big-C!!)
Samsung ICR18650 (Pink)
Unsure of brand (light teal)
Sanyo 18650 (red)
Panasonic 17670 (purple)





All cells freshly charged in a WF-139, measured 4.17 hot off the charger

AW-IMR #1 = 2.49A
AW-IMR #2 = 2.77A
Samsung ICR18650 (Pink) = 2.10A
Unsure of brand (light teal) = 2.05A
Sanyo 18650 (red) = 2.30A
Panasonic 17670 (purple) = 1.65A

At one point I had some blue and green Sony cells but their internal resistance was horrid.

Details of my setup...
DX:MCE - Remove the large spring. Tighten brass pill all the way down into the reflector. Wrap tightly in copper tape. These measures will help increase thermal conduction and help ensure a solid electrical contact. I generally try and use P60 hosts and modules without the large spring. if yo udo it right you can get the brass pill to bottom out firmly against the body tube. This increases thermal conductivity, and helps to reduce the possibility of an intermittent body contact.

Surefire 6P - Grind bezel down so its about 2-3 mm shorter than stock. This helps ensure a firm electrical contact between the brass pill and body tube. In the macro pic you can see a slight gap between the shoulder of the light and the bottom of the bezel. Mine has ben spun on a lathe to accept an 18650 cell.

Z41 - Stock Z41 has very low internal resistance. Its also has a very high current capacity and doesn't require current to flow through the tailcap threads. Lubed threads can be a high resistance conduction path.

Pics:twothumbs


----------



## kramer5150

I was poking around inside my 6P and I realized the glue from the copper tape gunked up the inside of the body tube. I used some iso-propyl alcohol and cleaned it off and re-measured the tailcap draw from the IMRs.






Cell #1





Cell #2
:huh::huh::huh::huh::huh::huh::huh:





It looks like my probes are touching, but you'll have to trust me they aren't. The one thing I am not sure of is the accuracy of my meter, I have never compared it to a higher quality model.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

Huh. Since I have no AW 18650 it is almost assured I'm leaving a LOT of light on the table in my two MC-E and one P7 lights.

Maybe after my job gets going good I can get some decent batteries!


----------



## Winx

Huge difference.

I got 2.8-2.9A from a fully loaded 2200mAh AW and blue Trustfire when I tested my homemade MC-E drop-in. It has Shiningbeam's low-med-high 2.5A (2.8A) driver. Download is also selling the same driver in Multisink thread.

Some old member wrote in some thread that copper tape's glue increases resistance. Maybe, but I have wrapped it around of all of my drop-ins, Dereelight 3SD, Malkoff M30, Q3 5C, MC-E and a few more. I haven't noticed anything negative. Heat transfers quickly and all of those works great. M30 draws about 1.5A(!) from a full battery so wrapping it a with copper tape wasn't a bad idea.



kramer5150 said:


> I was poking around inside my 6P and I realized the glue from the copper tape gunked up the inside of the body tube. I used some iso-propyl alcohol and cleaned it off and re-measured the tailcap draw from the IMRs.



Yes, same here. Some of my drop-in got loose after some of the glue "slides" off. I've thought about wrapping one round of tape more and make a tight fit again.


----------



## bshanahan14rulz

Flash_25296 said:


> I just wanted to say that if you purchase the Cree MC-E LED 3-Mode 410-Lumen Drop-in Module w/Copper Heatsink Base from DX plan on buying another reflector. The reflector that comes with this module creates a terrible set of rings. I purchased this as well as the Cree Q5 LED Drop-in Module (3.7V~18V Input) and when I switched reflectors the rings are virtually non-existent I also tested with my Deree CL1H OP reflector and also very good performance with no rings. If you are going to spend $24 bucks on a MC-E P60 dropin its worth the extra few bucks for a good reflector.



Same here, got the DX mc-e p60 dropin, and the reflector focus was horrible, couldn't tighten it more, and loosening it made it worse. Swapped reflector with solarforce reflector, got ready to adjust it for focus, noticed it was already perfect, minimal rings, minimal doughnut hole.


----------



## Policetacteam

Superdave,

From your pictures I would agree that the hotspot is much brighter on the LF R2 than than the Malkoff M60. I'm currently checking my options because I am not overly thrilled with the hot spot on my M60. Gene was great about exchanging it but I have another with the same almost hollow hot spot. I realize its just part of the Cree lottery but when you are spending good money I really don't want to buy a lottery ticket. I want to know that the spill, beam, and hot spot will look fairly uniform from one unit to the next. The build is far superior to anything else out there but I'm just not impressed with the newer M60's! I'm going to try a few Lumens FactoryD26 R2's (both smooth and OP reflectors) and see what comes of it! I will post some pictures when the two drop-ins arrive compared to the newer M60 I currently run in my weapon light. You guys be the judge.


----------



## Policetacteam

Just heard back from Lumens Factory...D26 R2 is 250 lumens out the front.


----------



## kramer5150

Policetacteam said:


> Just heard back from Lumens Factory...D26 R2 is 250 lumens out the front.



I doubt it does that much OTF. Factoring in refractive loss through the lens, reflective loss from reflector absorption and bezel obstruction... they would need to push the XRE to ~280 emitter lumens. Driving an XR-E that hard in a P60 drop in host would drive up emitter temperatures and decrease efficiency as a result. P60 hosts have relatively poor thermal cooling perofrmance. So even if it doe 250 OTF, they are only good for a 60-120 second cold start. After that, the output drops to the point of diminishing return and they'd be better off driving it at a lower output from the get go.

I would ask them what measurement method they used to achieve that much light, and what their drive current is for the XRE.


----------



## bugsy714

Thinking about moving from my p7 nailbender to a sst90 nailbender, anyone else made the move?

My p7 does 550 on 1Ximr and 650 on 2X primaries


----------



## outersquare

i went from 3 level regulated MC-E to single mode SST90 direct drive

when batteries new the SST90 has a hotter hotspot than the mc-e, 
about the same when batteries have been used for a while.

when batteries about to die, the direct drive SST90 starts sort of flickering
the MCE just falls to the lower mode

the biggest benefit i see is the beam pattern is very smooth now, even with MOP the MCE still had the clover looking pattern.


----------



## bugsy714

interesting, how long does it take to go from turbo blaster to being similar to the mc-e? 
What batts do you run?

My p7 is well focused so the only time I can tell it's a quad is when wall hunting


----------



## outersquare

from the brightest output it falls pretty fast, i'd guess several minutes, SST90 is a juice hog, but it stays about as bright as the regulated MCE for pretty much the rest of the battery life.

Like i said, when it is about to die, it starts to flicker a little but it is still quite bright.

i mostly use SF CR123, i don't have any rechargeables..

that is true that the clover pattern is mostly evident looking at flat surfaces, so it is not that big a deal, but now there is really no reason to have that pattern at all..


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

I have no P60 size MC-E or P7.

I have an Ultrafire, Xtar and MTE with MC-E, MC-E and P7 respectively.

I was able to tune the vast majority of the cloverleaf out of them.

I USE Q5 lights about 95% of the time because they are the easiest to carry. I carry nothing that uses a P60 anyhow.

How could I get anymore off topic?

Point is MC-E and P7 are still in the somewhat 'toy' stage.....


----------



## Flash_25296

I bought some 3M copper tape to use for increased heat sinking following Kramer5150's post made on here and I must say it has allowed me to properly heat sink the DX MC-E P60 drop-in, now the entire body of my Ultrafire 504B get very warm to the touch and I have no more flickering when changing modes.

Thanks for the simple but effective mod!


----------



## Hrvoje

New SST-50 drop-in. 

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=10277

Hrvoje


----------



## Winx

Hrvoje said:


> New SST-50 drop-in.
> 
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=10277
> 
> Hrvoje



Sold out already oo:


----------



## Ziemas

Winx said:


> Sold out already oo:


They're back in stock for a whopping $51.16! Does anyone know the aprox runtime/lumens on an SST-50 drop-in using a AW 2600 18650?


----------



## sparktastic

Hrvoje said:


> New SST-50 drop-in.
> 
> http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=10277
> 
> Hrvoje



Yep, a P60 dropin trying to pull >5Amps from a single 18650, in a 502b host. Gotta see that!

I doubt that these things would be much brighter than a $24 DX or KD MC-E dropin, because the single battery and driver would not supply the required current. If it did, ya better be wearing welding gloves, to protect yourself from the inevitable meltdown.


----------



## Black Rose

sparktastic said:


> Yep, a P60 dropin trying to pull >5Amps from a single 18650, in a 502b host. Gotta see that!


If it is accurate, I wouldn't use anything other than an IMR 18650 in that.

I wonder how many seconds it would run before heat diminished the output of LED...

If someone is going to spend that much on a SST-?? drop-in, get one from Nailbender. 
With him, you are getting a custom built, high quality product. 
Who knows what you'll get from KD.


----------



## outersquare

sparktastic said:


> Yep, a P60 dropin trying to pull >5Amps from a single 18650, in a 502b host. Gotta see that!
> 
> I doubt that these things would be much brighter than a $24 DX or KD MC-E dropin, because the single battery and driver would not supply the required current. If it did, ya better be wearing welding gloves, to protect yourself from the inevitable meltdown.


 

thats not true, i had a nailbender regulated MC-E and direct drive SST90, the SST is noticeably brighter with new batteries and about the same when batteries about to die. 
Nor does it really get noticeably hotter. 
Using 2xCR123.


----------



## Jason_Tx

Does anyone know of a p60 drop in that has a low low .. (1% or less) -- other than the BatterJunction one? 
I would gladly buy the R5 if it wasn't so floody. I prefer a warm tint but would settle for an R2 if thats all I could get..


----------



## fa__

Dereelight was offering DI pills, for Digital Infinite, but I don't see theim anymore on their website. 
I own two of theim , an R2 and a Q5, the lowest setting is really low but I can't evaluate it exactly.


----------



## kramer5150

Jason_Tx said:


> Does anyone know of a p60 drop in that has a low low .. (1% or less) -- other than the BatterJunction one?
> I would gladly buy the R5 if it wasn't so floody. I prefer a warm tint but would settle for an R2 if thats all I could get..



DX sells a couple different 1-100% ramping modules. I have the 8.4V version (SKU:17593) and its decent. I use it in a SF-G2, for low-low settings where I don't have to worry about heat build up. At its brightest setting its very close to a 6D MAG PR lamp driven at 8.4V, so its in the 160 Lumen neighborhood. At its lowest setting its around 1 Lumen.

DX:17593 - MM solitaire - ITP-A3-low
The A3 on low is about 3 Lumens.






My biggest complaint about this module is its SLOW ramping from low to hi and a very low PWM frequency in lower output modes.


----------



## Jason_Tx

Thx folks.
I ordered the DX 17593. Looks about like what I want except for the warm tint part of it... oh well, its cheap.

Might beg Nailbender to build me what I want someday LOL


----------



## Wiggle

I just did a runtime test on the 3-mode Lumens Factory D26 R2 3-3.6V drop-in. Well it took a couple days but anyway:

High: 1 hour 55 minutes
Medium: 6 hours
Low: 48 hours

Those were with Trustfire Black 2400 18650s. Light seems to remain in full regulation right up til the cell's protection kicks in.


----------



## Black Rose

That's the kind of info we need.

I've been contemplating that one for awhile.


----------



## Search

I'm on the hunt for an XPG dropin and there seems to be a lack of them.

I emailed Dereelight to ask if they had plans of releasing one by Christmas or just anytime soon.

Their answer? "They will be here soon!" Keep an eye open!


----------



## MattK

Thrunite XP-G R5 drop-in's have been available for a few weeks. 
260L OTF as tested by MrGman.


----------



## Yucca Patrol

I did the Paypal rebate/Best Offer Buy deal to get a second MC-E drop-in. It just arrived this weekend.

This new one is not as bright as the one I originally bought from DX. It also has a tint that leans more toward blue than the DX drop-in.


----------



## Kalzoaman

does anyone know where to get jetbeam p60 drop-in, they were recomended eo me in another thread


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

I asked this in another thread but this is THE P60 thread.

Three Level L/M/H with current limiting or FAST PWM. Which one?


----------



## Kalzoaman

Not sure which one i would like to browse the jetbeam products any no a good online source for any of you favorites. I think a 3 mode R2 sounds like a good choice any opinions


----------



## Kalzoaman

Not sure which one i would like.I want to browse the jetbeam productline anyone know of a good online source for the jetbeam drop-in. I think a 3 mode R2 sounds like a good choice, any opinions. but am also intrested in a MC-E with good voltage options for either 18650=3.7 or 2 RC123= 7.4 
Still a little new to this whole thing so and input would be well received 

Thanks


----------



## Kalzoaman

hey what you thoughts on DX drop-in? good bad to crapy solder or are they OK?


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

I had one DX Q5 module go DOA.

I have one that the board tries to fall out of the bottom but battery pressure keeps it together.

I have half a dozen that have been just fine.

Order at least two of whatever!

And I STILL wish to know which 3 level has NO or FAST PWM. I have one like this but can not identify it.


----------



## Black Rose

PlayboyJoeShmoe said:


> And I STILL wish to know which 3 level has NO or FAST PWM. I have one like this but can not identify it.


The 3-mode drop-ins from Lumens Factory have PWM, but I don't know how bad it is. You do see it with fans or if you wave the light in front of you. 

I have several 3-mode drop-ins that use current to control the modes, but I took existing drop-ins and swapped the drivers or I built my own drop-ins using the same driver.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

Mine shows NO PWM. Low isn't really all that low....

But I HATE PWM as it pertains to flashlights. I see multiple fingers when I wave one in front of my monitor but that does not ever bother me.

My 7 best lights from this perspective are:

Fenix P2 L1 and L2
LumaPower IncenDio and ConneXion
The aformentioned drop in in my 505B
The D-Mini that has a different driver ( I have NO idea if a stock driver has PWM or not)

The worst offenders are:

Fenix LOD CE Q4
SolarForce R2M (P60)
Deerelight 3SD Q5 (P60)
DX R2M (P60)
Tank 007 HC-16 in the mode that follows high.

I simply can not use those items in anything but high.

Edit: Oh heck, gotta mention Shark Driver (8 Level)
And whatever EagleTac and Fenix (TK10) do for the low.

And a bad mention: Icon Rogue 1 in low is a PWM monster.


----------



## Wiggle

Black Rose said:


> The 3-mode drop-ins from Lumens Factory have PWM, but I don't know how bad it is. You do see it with fans or if you wave the light in front of you.
> 
> I have several 3-mode drop-ins that use current to control the modes, but I took existing drop-ins and swapped the drivers or I built my own drop-ins using the same driver.



The LF 3-mode seems to use PWM but my (24 year old) eyes cannot detect it at all. I've never tried fans though, just normal use. One thing I really like about this drop-in is that it has memory and requires a very fast on/off to switch modes and therefore it works great with a forward clicky even with less than a second between activations. This sounds like not a big deal, but I love this because I just intuitively get to use the light as a single mode without worrying about accidental changes. 3 mode /w memory and short switch time is the absolute best UI I've ever used.

It also comes in a pleasant tint, not as nice as my 5A/5Bs but very close to pure white in my eyes. Also, the throw is very good with this drop in.

This is all with the single Li-Ion 3-mode one.


----------



## Flashfirstask?later

Kalzoaman said:


> does anyone know where to get jetbeam p60 drop-in, they were recomended eo me in another thread



If you mean in this thread https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/241698 well they were talking about "Forward Clickies" from JETBeam to replace switches, not any P60 dropins. This thread https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/249115 was about the JETBeam JET-III M light.

JETBeam has never made any P60 sort of dropins. http://www.jetbeam.com.cn/


----------



## kramer5150

I am under the impression that authentic Solarforce LED drop ins have the large color'd labels placed around the "throat" of the reflector, and the fakes have a thin mylar-strip label around the reflector.

Is this true?


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

The one I've been asking about no longer has it's own reflector. And I don't have any name brand reflectors laying loose. Just generic "Superbright" from DX.

I'd REALLY like to identify it. No detectable PWM and three modes with memory.


----------



## Kalzoaman

Flashfirstask?later said:


> If you mean in this thread https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/241698 well they were talking about "Forward Clickies" from JETBeam to replace switches, not any P60 dropins. This thread https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/249115 was about the JETBeam JET-III M light.
> 
> JETBeam has never made any P60 sort of dropins. http://www.jetbeam.com.cn/


 

Hey, thanks i got confused in the thread still kinda new

K


----------



## kosPap

PlayboyJoeShmoe said:


> The one I've been asking about no longer has it's own reflector. And I don't have any name brand reflectors laying loose. Just generic "Superbright" from DX.
> 
> I'd REALLY like to identify it. No detectable PWM and three modes with memory.


 
generally yes..but i think the sinlge mode multipower kind comes with a mylar strip taht says "solarforce R2"


----------



## Search

What would be a better duty drop-in: Thrunite or Nailbenders XP-G drop-ins?


----------



## Hrvoje

New R5 at KD. Looks like quality:

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=10326

Hrvoje


----------



## Black Rose

Too bad it has a 5-mode driver with blinky crap


----------



## ptolemy

Search said:


> What would be a better duty drop-in: Thrunite or Nailbenders XP-G drop-ins?


 not sure about thrunite but nailbenders is top notch and he will take care of ya down the line also


----------



## Search

ptolemy said:


> not sure about thrunite but nailbenders is top notch and he will take care of ya down the line also



This is why I'm leaning towards it. Price is the same and output/runtime will virtually be the same.

My only concern is beam shape differences as there has been no comparison.


----------



## kosPap

well time to ask something basic of my own...

what does it mean when a manufacturer
(like Solarfroce does) rates his modules for a low threshold of 3Volt?

Obviously it will not light up on a CR123, but does this mean that the 3V minimum indicates a Li-Ion protection feature (totall cutoff)? or is it a battery level where the light is minimal/very dim?

and if yes, is it universal for very manufacturer?

thanks, kostas


----------



## Mike_TX

*Kaidomain XPG R5*

I posted this in the open forum, but maybe it should have been here (?)

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=10197


I'm looking for a bright-as-hell drop-in for my Ultrafire WF-501B to run off 2 RCR-123A's, and this looks good at a rated 400 lumens! I'm assuming this is a P60 drop-in (?) If not, someone please correct me. 

One last thing - it shows to be direct drive rather than regulated ... isn't it better to have a regulated circuit rather than output that dims as current draw falls off? Or do I rely on the protection circuit in the RCR 123A's?

Or am I misunderstanding this whole thing?

.
.


----------



## linterno

*Re: Kaidomain XPG R5*

I already bought it and I am in the long wait for shipping and delivering.


Mike_TX said:


> ... and this looks good at a rated 400 lumens!


 I don't think it is 400 lumen. Unless it it over driven.



Mike_TX said:


> I'm assuming this is a P60 drop-in (?) If not, someone please correct me.


Yes, it is.



Mike_TX said:


> One last thing - it shows to be direct drive rather than regulated ... isn't it better to have a regulated circuit rather than output that dims as current draw falls off?


I don't really know but I guess it would be better.



Mike_TX said:


> Or do I rely on the protection circuit in the RCR 123A's?


This drop-in runs from 3.7V-8.4V so by using 2 RCR123 you will rely on it. Even though it is not a good idea to rely on protection circuit as CPF experts recommend.


----------



## Mike_TX

Thanks, Linterno. Give us a report when it arrives.

.
.

ETA - I ordered one, too. I'll see what it does in my Ultrafire 501B.

.
.


----------



## Jmacken37

*Which solarforce drop in?*

Hello,

I'd like to upgrade some G2 bodies with a solarforce head and forward clicky tail. I want to run these with two non-rechargeable CR123A cells. I want a single-mode light. Which of the below is the right choice? Thanks for any help!

Model available (Luminous flux level, mode available, input voltage): 
*I. **LC-1 (R2, single mode, 0.8V-4.2V) *- New!!**
*II. **LC-1 (R2, single mode, 3V-18V)*
*III. **LC-1 (R2m, 3 modes, 0.8V-4.2V) *- New!!**
*IV. **LC-1 (R2m, 3 modes, 4.2V-8.4V) *- New!!**
*V. **LC-1 (R2m, 5 modes, 0.8V-4.2V) *- New!!**
*VI. **LC-1 (R2m, 5 modes, 4.2V-8.4V)*
*VII. **LC-1 (Q5, single mode, 3V-18V)*
*VIII. **LC-1 (P4, single mode, 3V-18V)*
*IX. **LC-1 (Red/Green/Blue, single mode, 3V-18V)* - New!!**
*X. **LC-1 (Red/Green/Blue, 5 modes, 4.2V-8.4V)* - New!!**
*[* Single mode = single high output level
3 modes = 100% - 40% - 10% - Repeat (with memory function)
5 modes = 100% - 40% - 10% - Flashing - SOS - Repeat (with memory function) *]*


----------



## litemax

*Re: Which solarforce drop in?*



Jmacken37 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'd like to upgrade some G2 bodies with a solarforce head and forward clicky tail. I want to run these with two non-rechargeable CR123A cells. I want a single-mode light. Which of the below is the right choice? Thanks for any help!
> 
> Model available (Luminous flux level, mode available, input voltage):
> *II. **LC-1 (R2, single mode, 3V-18V)*
> *VII. **LC-1 (Q5, single mode, 3V-18V)*
> *VIII. **LC-1 (P4, single mode, 3V-18V)*
> *IX. **LC-1 (Red/Green/Blue, single mode, 3V-18V)* - New!!



You'll want something that handles 3V x 2 = 6V.

R2 is brightest, followed by Q5 and P4. This assumes you want a white light. SolarForce tends to use the WC tint.

If you want a coloured light, then use option 9. Option 9 does not mean that they offer all three colours in the same drop-in. Just that there are 3 colours (in separate drop-ins) to choose from.


----------



## CampingLED

*Re: Which solarforce drop in?*



Jmacken37 said:


> I'd like to upgrade some G2 bodies with a solarforce head and forward clicky tail.


 
Even with the Solarforce head on a G2 I would not recommend these high power modules in a G2 body. The thermal contact (even with the Solarforce head) is still mainly plastic. You should rather use modules with a max current to emitter in the area of 300 to 500 mA.


----------



## orbital

+

Dereelight XP-G drop-ins are now listed.
SMO reflectors also avail.

~ The drivers are the usual suspects, 1S, 3SD, 3SM....ect.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

*Re: Which solarforce drop in?*



CampingLED said:


> Even with the Solarforce head on a G2 I would not recommend these high power modules in a G2 body. The thermal contact (even with the Solarforce head) is still mainly plastic. You should rather use modules with a max current to emitter in the area of 300 to 500 mA.



The proper application of tinfoil or thermal compound will help heat get to the head. I don't think you'd want to run it for long periods but that's what 3 level drivers are good for!


----------



## Black Rose

As noted by kramer5150 in this post, he had to grind 3mm off the base of the Solarforce head to get the head to properly hold the drop-in against the G2 body.


----------



## CampingLED

Looked at the Kramer link above and the great thing is that I am also still using the 0-100% driver in my G2 since it was released. Before that I used the 14442. I.m.h.o. it is still one of the best VERSITILE drop-ins for a G2.

W.r.t. the alu foil wrap. I agree that it helps to fill the air gap as per my old post.


----------



## J_Roc

I am looking for a warm LED with throw, any suggestions? Before I take the plunge to a M60W or Nailbender drop-in, the "cheapo" in me has been looking at the DX 12501, has anyone out there tried that one?


----------



## Black Rose

J_Roc said:


> I am looking for a warm LED with throw, any suggestions? Before I take the plunge to a M60W or Nailbender drop-in, the "cheapo" in me has been looking at the DX 12501, has anyone out there tried that one?


Kramer5150 has that one.

Pic of the beam is here. And his opinion of it.


----------



## J_Roc

Hey, that was fast, thanks BR. Looks worth while...


----------



## tbenedict

J_Roc said:


> Hey, that was fast, thanks BR. Looks worth while...


 
I've had one of those DX's on order for over three months..........and they still show in stock.


----------



## Wiggle

12501 is a great drop-in but doesn't have amazing throw for a P60. The beam is smooth though and the colour temperature is quite nice outdoors.

Here it is indoors versus my Solarforce R2 drop-in (note in this set, the R2 is driven by only one Li-Ion which is why it is not as bright as it could be).











And here it is outdoors against the same drop-in (this time R2 is on the 2 x Li-Ion for max output):


----------



## J_Roc

Hey Wiggle, thanks for the pics, very helpful.

Right now the only R2 drop-in that I have is a DX 11836. I guess I would be loosing a lot of throw if I went to the DX 12501? I mostly use my G2/6P in the woods for checking out what's down a trail. I would like to get something warm, but I guess if I do, I sacrifice throw...


----------



## Black Rose

I don't know if it's a loss of throw or just the difference in perceived output caused by the different tints.

The lumen output is different, perhaps that also has an effect.

I built my own Q3-5C drop-in (that's the one I had with me at the last meet). 
If you want to get together to see how it performs before you order, let me know. 
I have an R2 as well that uses the exact same driver as the one in my Q3-5C, so that levels the playing field so to speak.


----------



## milliam

I've been trying to read up and figure this out, but it looks like it might just be best to ask the question.

I bought some 11836's from DX awhile back (based off of this awesome thread here), and now I'm looking to get some more.

I read that they have changed the 11836's now and not for the better. 

So...what is the best bulb for me to buy? Looking for plug and play. Going to be running these with 2 CR123As. Mainly looking for throw, but if something has a flood that will light up the same distance, then that would be great.

Is the R2 still the best?

Thanks!


----------



## old4570

Yeah , a XR-E R2 is hard to beat for throw . 

Hopefully the XR-E has matured to the point where over driving it will return some nice output figures . 

If throw is important , a dedicated thrower may be in order ?


----------



## sfca

Fwiw, I think after Shot Show there might be a new standard set by OEM lights that P60 drop-ins might have to meet.
Guess I'll put off thoughts of a P60 until a couple weeks after that... see what's going on first!


----------



## MattK

sfca said:


> Fwiw, I think after Shot Show there might be a new standard set by OEM lights that P60 drop-ins might have to meet.
> Guess I'll put off thoughts of a P60 until a couple weeks after that... see what's going on first!



Care to explain?


----------



## Niconical

sfca said:


> Fwiw, I think after Shot Show there might be a new standard set by OEM lights that P60 drop-ins might have to meet.


 
:thinking::thinking::thinking:


----------



## Winx

I bet Chinese manufacturers don't care if there is going to be some standard. We'll get complete and empty drop-ins and 17mm drivers now and in the future.


----------



## old4570

I thought the standard was P60 ? [ Dimensions ] 
The rest is just flavors .


----------



## French_Candle

Hello
I have a question
Should I have a brighter output for a P60 drop-in if I use a bigger host than a surefire 6P ? a 26500 fivemega host for example ?
Is a D36 host brigther than a P60 ?
:candle:


----------



## kosPap

Generally NO....
the theory is the LED gets an definite/defined amount of electricity from the electroniccs....so output is the same...

ZDifferent reflectors mean a different beam...tighter, floodies etc....genertally the larger the reflector the tighter the beam, hence the range....

but there are other factors that may change things a bit....there have been cases were the same board gave more light with different batteries or voltage (each board has a range of Voltage). then heatsinking plays some part...the hotter the LED is kept the less light it outputs....

so...spent some time studying beam photos...My belief is that from a point on here in CPF we should be discussing/choosing more on beam characteristics than output...


----------



## old4570

There is output = Lumens 
Then there is throw = how far the beam will light things up 
And Flood = how much area around you is lit up 

It just depends on what you need the light for ? 

Most Cree flashlights [ P60 included ] are good for 100 meters give or take , with a Q5/R2 XR-E emitter .

Then you have XP-E , 700mAh rated , good output for low current draw . 
XP-G - High output , but not so great on throw , nice flood though . 

MC-E / SSC P7 , generally more flood than throw , but dedicated throwers built for the emitter . 

If you just want a nice flashlight , a Cree XR-E Q5/R2 is hard to beat . 
If you want something for around the house , indoor use , and still has decent throw , the XP-G R5 is a good balance , I took one for a walk last night , a L2 P60 host with a XP-G R5 , and I like it , still dont throw like a R2 , but sure does light things up real nice ..

If I were being stalked by a Grizzly , Id want a XP-G R5 P60 host to light things up with rather than a narrow beam XR-E . 

Its apples and oranges ! I have enough lights to cover almost ever possible need , and then some . 

If you just want a nice flashlight , to light things up , the new XP-G models should cover your needs .


----------



## Zeva

So i am looking to buy a solarforce l2 And i was wondering what a good drop in would be? I am looking for one thats brighter than or as bright as my ITP C6T thanks!


----------



## recDNA

Obviously a newbie question but is there a MC-E dropin for my Surefire P6 that will run on 2 CR123 primaries? No DX please. I'm looking for 300+ lumens and the ability to run for 15 minutes on high without toasting the LED or exploding the batteries. Absolutely no interest in rechargeables so if I cannot run an MC-E on primaries I won't bother with a drop in.

If I can get a little more throw than normal for MC-E that's great but I can live without it.

Since my P6 has a one mode switch if I pick one with multiple modes do I need to buy a new switch also?

If modes are a consideration 2 modes would be great. I don't need a low-low. Mode 1 50 - 80 lumens and mode 2 300 lumens would be great. As for tint blue-ish white to pure white is great. No interest in warm or greenish tints.

I don't like XP-G R5. Every one I've seen is too green for me.


----------



## jake25

recDNA, MCE dropins are great, but they certainly aren't throwers. This leads people to believe that MCE dropins put out less lumens than they actually do.


----------



## recDNA

jake25 said:


> recDNA, MCE dropins are great, but they certainly aren't throwers. This leads people to believe that MCE dropins put out less lumens than they actually do.


 

Yes, I know. Can you suggest an MC-E drop in that meets the criteria I asked for? All I want is an MC-E that throws as well as other MC-E's. I don't expect it to compete with X-RE


----------



## Kindle

Niconical said:


> :thinking::thinking::thinking:





Winx said:


> I bet Chinese manufacturers don't care if there is going to be some standard. We'll get complete and empty drop-ins and 17mm drivers now and in the future.





old4570 said:


> I thought the standard was P60 ? [ Dimensions ]
> The rest is just flavors .



Perhaps he meant that an OEM (or multiple OEMs) is planning to introduce a high output P60 drop in (ie the mythical P61L) that will be the new industry "standard".

We can only hope.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

recDNA said:


> Obviously a newbie question but is there a MC-E dropin for my Surefire P6 that will run on 2 CR123 primaries? No DX please. I'm looking for 300+ lumens and the ability to run for 15 minutes on high without toasting the LED or exploding the batteries. Absolutely no interest in rechargeables so if I cannot run an MC-E on primaries I won't bother with a drop in.
> 
> If I can get a little more throw than normal for MC-E that's great but I can live without it.
> 
> Since my P6 has a one mode switch if I pick one with multiple modes do I need to buy a new switch also?
> 
> If modes are a consideration 2 modes would be great. I don't need a low-low. Mode 1 50 - 80 lumens and mode 2 300 lumens would be great. As for tint blue-ish white to pure white is great. No interest in warm or greenish tints.
> 
> I don't like XP-G R5. Every one I've seen is too green for me.



Check with Nailbender. I'll bet he can make you something great!


----------



## CampingLED

Just checked the list on Page 1 again to see if there are more SST based options.

Noticed that the hyperlink to Gene is wrong ("...../shop2"), but also noticed that his MC-E versions are not listed.


----------



## old4570

*KD XP-G R5 Drop In*

Well got the mythical beast in my hands ... Are we ready ? 

Hi = 2.29A current draw measured at tail / Light box = 230Lux / Throw 6000Lux @ 1meter

Med = 0.82A / 143Lux
Lo = 0.28A / 56Lux

My home made Pill [ XP-G R5 ] 

Hi = 1.7A / 331Lux / 4600Lux throw 
Med = 0.78A / 160Lux
Lo = 0.14A / 31Lux 

After examining the pill , my guess for the low output is the reflector is sitting to high , causing a lot of loss as the emitter is sitting to low ... and getting blocked .


----------



## old4570

OK , the KD XP-G R5 drop in was poorly assembled ..
Hardly any thermal paste under the emitter , the emitter was simply sitting on a very minor amount of thermal paste , the reflector was to high and actually blocked some of the output , a lot of it ... Heat transfer would have been negligible . 

The fixes = I glued the emitter down with thermal glue [ Arctic Alumina ] 
I lowered the reflector by filling down the edges of the slug the emitter sits in .
The skirt of the reflector needed trimming so the neg spring could go on . 
I also slightly enlarged the emitter hole in the reflector ...

Output is up from 230Lux to 375Lux [ 350ish Lumen ] 
Still , very expensive lumens from a current perspective , 2.3A ..
A ssc P7 will perform better than that , 

Oh well ! Overall , a good idea poorly executed !


----------



## recDNA

PlayboyJoeShmoe said:


> Check with Nailbender. I'll bet he can make you something great!


 
I asked some questions in his thread and was ignored so he's not the modder for me. My questions are stupid by expert standards but to sell to me you need to explain on a level that I understand.


----------



## old4570

recDNA said:


> I asked some questions in his thread and was ignored so he's not the modder for me. My questions are stupid by expert standards but to sell to me you need to explain on a level that I understand.



What was the question ?

[Cree MCE $ 75 - 3.6 - 6 volts/ 1 - 3 or 5 levels / Cool - Neutral - Warm bins]


----------



## recDNA

old4570 said:


> What was the question ?
> 
> [Cree MCE $ 75 - 3.6 - 6 volts/ 1 - 3 or 5 levels / Cool - Neutral - Warm bins]


 
Ok thanks, 3.6 - 6 volts means little to me by itself. Many flashlights advertise that then warn not to use 2 CR123.

I'm interested in an SST-50 also since theoretically I can get more lumens on fewer amps. Can an SST-50 run safely on 2 CR123 batteries on high for at least 15 minutes without overheating in a L2P or another similarly sized host? (In other words are some small hosts heat-sinked better than others with fins etc?)

I'm staying away from Nailbender because he is too busy and his language too technical for me to understand but maybe I can find another distributer. (I also have no PayPal acct, don't want one, and I don't want to wait a long time for my new toy) 

Some will chide that I can research to understand this technical info. I'm simply not interested. I understand if folks are too busy to answer my questions. Please understand that some of us flashaholics are simply not interested in learning all about the electronics. I like nice cars too but I don't care how they work either.

Do have have to buy a special clicky switch to facilitate more than one mode? 

I'm also interested in the Xtar SST-50 that will be available soon but I'd prefer something a little smaller. I definitely want to go with 2 X CR123. NO rechargeables.


----------



## JohnF

recDNA said:


> I'm staying away from Nailbender because he is too busy and his language too technical for me to understand but maybe I can find another distributer. (I also have no PayPal acct, don't want one, and I don't want to wait a long time for my new toy).



Is that like not going to a fantastic French restaurant because it is busy, you don't speak French, and going to KFC is faster and easier? I'd personally rather wait a week or two for something great instead of having a piece'o'crap tomorrow.



recDNA said:


> Do have have to buy a special clicky switch to facilitate more than one mode?



Usually any clicky will change modes with a quick (but not too quick) click.



recDNA said:


> I'm also interested in the Xtar SST-50 that will be available soon but I'd prefer something a little smaller.



I wouldn't hold your breath. You've not heard the manufacturer filed for bankruptcy? Might delay new offerings.



recDNA said:


> I definitely want to go with 2 X CR123. NO rechargeables.



Whatever drop in you choose, make sure its voltage range includes 6 volts.

John F


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

At least this much is easy to explain.

3.6V is the nomonal voltage of a Li-Ion cell. Though they come hot off the charger at 4.2 or so.

6V is the nominal voltage of two CR123 cells. Though they start at about 3.2 fresh.

So 3.6-6V will handle either one Li-Ion or two CR123, but not two RCR123 or 16340 Li-Ion.

I have found that Deal Extreme is rather hit and miss when it comes to super bright lights.

While everything I got there has wowed me, the MC-E and P7 do not live quite up to the hype.


----------



## recDNA

JohnF said:


> Is that like not going to a fantastic French restaurant because it is busy, you don't speak French, and going to KFC is faster and easier? I'd personally rather wait a week or two for something great instead of having a piece'o'crap tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> Usually any clicky will change modes with a quick (but not too quick) click.
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't hold your breath. You've not heard the manufacturer filed for bankruptcy? Might delay new offerings.
> 
> 
> 
> Whatever drop in you choose, make sure its voltage range includes 6 volts.
> 
> John F


 
*Thanks for the tips on voltage and clicky.*

Xtar is bankrupt? Did you know there is a current sales thread for a new model in the Marketplace from SBflashlights?

No, I don't want the uncertainty of the wait nor to be involved in any way with Paypal. I won't bore you with the reasons. Suffice it to say I don't like Paypal. I'd rather pay a little more to a dealer who can use Mastercharge directly.

If some big dealer (like 4sevens) sold Nailbender's drop-ins already installed in a good host that would be my cup of tea.


----------



## flashfiend

What was too technical in Nailbender's explanation? Usually if you specify what you want in layman's terms he'll set you up with the proper driver for your chosen LED if possible to work with the battery and host combination you desire.

I am of the opinion that some level of technical knowledge is necessary to truly appreciate what you have. Your opinion may differ.

If you're looking for an MC-E module that runs off 2 CR123 primaries than it looks like a 'nailbender' module should work for you. Btw, my experience with him sounds like the exact opposite of yours. He has been exceedingly responsive to my queries.


----------



## recDNA

flashfiend said:


> What was too technical in Nailbender's explanation? Usually if you specify what you want in layman's terms he'll set you up with the proper driver for your chosen LED if possible to work with the battery and host combination you desire.
> 
> I am of the opinion that some level of technical knowledge is necessary to truly appreciate what you have. Your opinion may differ.
> 
> If you're looking for an MC-E module that runs off 2 CR123 primaries than it looks like a 'nailbender' module should work for you. Btw, my experience with him sounds like the exact opposite of yours. He has been exceedingly responsive to my queries.


 
There was no response to my question and some posters complained about waiting for their drop ins. There is also a 4% surcharge for credit card instead of PayPal and no price listed for the SST-50 drop in. I'm not comfortable with any of it. I'll wait for a commercially available product.


----------



## flashfiend

I'm a little shocked by the lack of response Dave is usually very responsive. I better dial back my PMs to him so he has more time  I think some people complain on wait because they are of the instant gratification variety. In my experience I usually have my modules sent to me within a few days, if that. Then it's up to USPS. The 4% surcharge is a fee that PayPal charges, if you don't pay it then he does. The sst-50 price isn't listed to allow for fluctuations in his costs. He does try to get the best bins available. I can tell you the two sst-50s I've purchased from him have been the same price.

I can empathize with your lack of comfort with it. Just remember commercial vendors aren't always very selective of the quality of product they sell you. Dave tries his best to be selective. But to each their own. FYI, there is a KaiDomain and Ultrafire sst-50 drop-in available. I think you can get the UF part at BatteryJunction and the KD part from KD's website.



recDNA said:


> There was no response to my question and some posters complained about waiting for their drop ins. There is also a 4% surcharge for credit card instead of PayPal and no price listed for the SST-50 drop in. I'm not comfortable with any of it. I'll wait for a commercially available product.


----------



## recDNA

flashfiend said:


> I'm a little shocked by the lack of response Dave is usually very responsive. I better dial back my PMs to him so he has more time  I think some people complain on wait because they are of the instant gratification variety. In my experience I usually have my modules sent to me within a few days, if that. Then it's up to USPS. The 4% surcharge is a fee that PayPal charges, if you don't pay it then he does. The sst-50 price isn't listed to allow for fluctuations in his costs. He does try to get the best bins available. I can tell you the two sst-50s I've purchased from him have been the same price.
> 
> I can empathize with your lack of comfort with it. Just remember commercial vendors aren't always very selective of the quality of product they sell you. Dave tries his best to be selective. But to each their own. FYI, there is a KaiDomain and Ultrafire sst-50 drop-in available. I think you can get the UF part at BatteryJunction and the KD part from KD's website.


 
It's too bad CPF itself doesn't set up a direct payment system for credit card users for its Dealers' Corner so we could purchase directly through the website. I know lots of people who hate PayPal. I don't even like to use them as a conduit when I pay with credit card.

As for the 4% it's the price of doing business IMO. No business likes to pay it but they do to garner more customers. People like me who won't pay with cash or Paypal are lost to dealers who can't or won't use Visa/Mastercard.


----------



## Black Rose

recDNA said:


> People like me who won't pay with cash or Paypal are lost to dealers who can't or won't use Visa/Mastercard.


Obtaining merchant accounts to be able to accept Visa/Mastercrd/Amex is insanely expensive.

If Dave (or any of the other custom builders) were to get merchant accounts, their prices would have to be much higher to cover the additional overhead.

PayPal is a necessary evil.


----------



## brted

*DX XP-G R5 Drop In*

These two R5 drop-ins by Superbright showed up on DX lately:

5-mode:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.32954

1-mode:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.32953

The LED seems to be positioned better than the KD one, so maybe by taking their time, DX got this right? And 320 lumens could be about right too. Voltage is 3.6-18V so it's a buck driver. Does that mean it might not perform well with a single 18650? Would it be better to use 2x16340's?


----------



## mvyrmnd

*Re: DX XP-G R5 Drop In*



brted said:


> These two R5 drop-ins by Superbright showed up on DX lately:
> 
> 5-mode:
> 
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.32954
> 
> 1-mode:
> 
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.32953
> 
> The LED seems to be positioned better than the KD one, so maybe by taking their time, DX got this right? And 320 lumens could be about right too. Voltage is 3.6-18V so it's a buck driver. Does that mean it might not perform well with a single 18650? Would it be better to use 2x16340's?


I just ordered one of the single modes to put in a 2x18650 Solarforce L2.

Will post how it goes when it gets here in 3 - ~ Weeks.


----------



## Winx

Has anyone drilled the emitter hole of a XP-E/G reflector bigger? I've seen a few person mentioning how the small hole prevent the light coming from XP-G. I mean the most common orange peel reflector, same what KD sells separately.

I'll try and drill a 2.5-3mm hole. Maybe even bigger works if the reflector doesn't sit on top of the emitter base.


----------



## Pyranha

Winx said:


> Has anyone drilled the emitter hole of a XP-E/G reflector bigger? I've seen a few person mentioning how the small hole prevent the light coming from XP-G. I mean the most common orange peel reflector, same what KD sells separately.
> 
> I'll try and drill a 2.5-3mm hole. Maybe even bigger works if the reflector doesn't sit on top of the emitter base.



I did, made it about 5mm and the light output is atleast twice the original. Hell, you can probably drill the whole bottom off to get every bit of juice onto the reflector.


----------



## recDNA

Black Rose said:


> Obtaining merchant accounts to be able to accept Visa/Mastercrd/Amex is insanely expensive.
> 
> If Dave (or any of the other custom builders) were to get merchant accounts, their prices would have to be much higher to cover the additional overhead.
> 
> PayPal is a necessary evil.


 

That's why I suggested this website get a bunch of builders together to split it and have the ordering available here in the Marketplace itself.

No, PayPal is NOT a necessary evil. It just means I can't buy from custom builders.


----------



## Ziemas

recDNA said:


> That's why I suggested this website get a bunch of builders together to split it and have the ordering available here in the Marketplace itself.
> 
> No, PayPal is NOT a necessary evil. It just means I can't buy from custom builders.


It's your choice, and there is no point in whining about it.


----------



## kosPap

Winx said:


> Has anyone drilled the emitter hole of a XP-E/G reflector bigger? I've seen a few person mentioning how the small hole prevent the light coming from XP-G. I mean the most common orange peel reflector, same what KD sells separately.
> 
> I'll try and drill a 2.5-3mm hole. Maybe even bigger works if the reflector doesn't sit on top of the emitter base.


 
I did....did no measurements...My purpose was to find an all-in one P60 module reflector..and I did....XP-G beam is unaltered, the MC-E beam is better and XR-E is good too.


----------



## recDNA

Ziemas said:


> It's your choice, and there is no point in whining about it.


 
Nobody whining here. Stating problems. Suggesting solutions.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

I can't use Paypal and for the time being I can't even send a Money Order for much of anything.

Both problems MAY disappear with a new job in about a month.... but it might be a few months after that date too.

I'm itching to try a DX 32953 XP-G but right now that depends on DX.


----------



## Ziemas

recDNA said:


> Nobody whining here. Stating problems. Suggesting solutions.


What's your issue with Paypal? You can use a credit card with Paypal without opening an account.


----------



## recDNA

Ziemas said:


> What's your issue with Paypal? You can use a credit card with Paypal without opening an account.


 
This thread is about drop ins. I've already been accused of whining. Let's just say I HAVE a problem with PayPal and leave it at that OK?

Now...I wonder who makes the best SST-50 drop in that IS commercially available so I CAN buy it directly with my credit card?


----------



## Black Rose

*Re: DX XP-G R5 Drop In*



brted said:


> These two R5 drop-ins by Superbright showed up on DX lately:
> 
> 1-mode:
> 
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.32953


I ordered the one mode drop-in.

Once I get it, I'll be modding it with a 3-mode L-Mini II driver from Shiningbeam.


----------



## J3004

does anyone know which dropin fits the new SF g2l-fyl? The solarforce R2 dropin doesn't fit :sick2:


----------



## Black Rose

J3004 said:


> does anyone know which dropin fits the new SF g2l-fyl? The solarforce R2 dropin doesn't fit :sick2:


Did you try it without the large outer spring attached?

I've used Solarforce and other P60 drop-ins (with spring removed) in a regular G2 without issue.


----------



## J3004

Yes, I tested it without the spring.

hmpf, I'll have to try other dropins


----------



## Zeva

I bought a XP-G from DX one mode ^^ ill report on draw when i get it


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

And I'm broke/JEALOUS!!!!


----------



## Raymond3

Bought a nailbender SST-50 3 mode, and it is great. The hot spot is larger than a M60 (Malkoffs are favorites of mine), and is very useful. The three modes are very practical and they access reliably with a clicky in a C2. Wish that it woulld handle RCRs though. 

Looking foward to the Malkoff R5 upgrades, but this nailbender is really performing very well with 17670, 18650 and primaries.

lovecpfIf it weren't for CPF, I would have saved hundreds and hundreds (thousands) of $s, but not had nearly as much fun with light as I have.

Cheers


----------



## Jay T

Mx DX XP-G R5 showed up today, another cheap dropin for the parts drawer.

At first I was happy with it, side by side it was brighter than my M60. Then something didn't look right as the hot spot of the M60 was now brighter than the R5 ( it was the opposite at first).

I pulled out the lightmeter and off to the bathroom for a ceiling bounce test. At first the XP-G showed low 30s, but, the whole time it was dropping fast. After a minute or so it was down to 25. The Malkoff was able to hold a near constant value dropping by only a few tenths. My quark turbo was the same way, a very slow drop in the tenths.

So off to the multimeter. The tailcap draw started at just over 1 amp and just kept creeping up, I stopped at 1.4A (about twice the current draw of my Malkoff). This is on 2 RCR123s so about a ten watt draw, It does make a nice hand warmer. On two fresh CR123 it pulls 2 amps. 

Perhaps mine is defective and others will get a unit not built to cook popcorn.


----------



## kosPap

it begs a good driver...if you can accpet a lower output the dx3256 is good...else search for other 17mm 1A drivers there


----------



## Vernon

I need some help. I have a few Surefires that I use as hosts to an M60 and a Thrunite XP-G drop in. Here's where I get confused: I'm really interested in some other p60 style drop ins (deree light and nailbender for example), but I don't know how the three-stage drop-ins work with my Surefires. Do I have to have some special tailswitch to access the three modes? Is there a special board that has to be installed to run/access the three modes? Or is just as simple as dropping it in my C2 with a McClicky?


----------



## kosPap

no the modes are accessed by turning the flashlight on & off


----------



## mvyrmnd

I got my DX XP-G R5 Single Mode today. Sits solid at 0.9A from 2x18650. It settled at that after 30 secs or so, and I got bored holding the multimeter after a few minutes with no change. There was no appreciable loss of brightness as time went by, but I don't have a meter to do any proper measurements.


----------



## carrot

I just got a Malkoff M61 and it is outstanding... posted my impressions over here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3272261


----------



## Black Rose

mvyrmnd said:


> I got my DX XP-G R5 Single Mode today. Sits solid at 0.9A from 2x18650.


What is the current draw from a single 18650?

My XP-G R5 is currently sitting about 390km away from here, waiting for the Customs folks to release it.


----------



## linterno

mvyrmnd said:


> I got my DX XP-G R5 Single Mode today.





carrot said:


> I just got a Malkoff M61 and it is outstanding...


 :devil: :devil: :devil:


----------



## Yucca Patrol

Just received my DX XP-G "R5" 1 mode. It is angry blue with an off-center emitter. On the bright side. . . . it is very very bright!

Now I'll have to get the Malkoff P61


----------



## Black Rose

Yucca Patrol said:


> Just received my DX XP-G "R5" 1 mode. It is angry blue


Better than green I guess.

I wonder if it's angry blue because the LED is being driver too hard...



> with an off-center emitter.






> On the bright side. . . . it is very very bright!


----------



## mvyrmnd

Black Rose said:


> What is the current draw from a single 18650?



I get 1.5A from a single 18650.

It's certainly a cooler tint than my DX XR-E R2 Dropin, but I'd hardly call it angry blue.

Mine's centred well enough...


----------



## Black Rose

Thanks for the info.

False alarm, it was the drivers and not the drop-in that arrived yesterday.


----------



## MattK

mvyrmnd said:


> I got my DX XP-G R5 Single Mode today. Sits solid at 0.9A from 2x18650. It settled at that after 30 secs or so, and I got bored holding the multimeter after a few minutes with no change. There was no appreciable loss of brightness as time went by, but I don't have a meter to do any proper measurements.



What are you seeing from 1 x 18650?


----------



## mvyrmnd

MattK said:


> What are you seeing from 1 x 18650?





mvyrmnd said:


> I get 1.5A from a single 18650.
> 
> It's certainly a cooler tint than my DX XR-E R2 Dropin, but I'd hardly call it angry blue.
> 
> Mine's centred well enough...


----------



## Black Rose

It seems like the first batch of those XP-G "R5" drop-ins from DX may have driver issues. There is some talk about the high current draws on the DX forums.

Mine arrived today and the current draw at the tail is not as high as what has been reported here and at DX.

I get 1.1A with a pair of 16340 cells, 1.2A with single 18650 cells, and 1.3A with single 17670 cells. 

The emitter is perfectly centred and the beam is excellent. 

It's freakin' bright and almost pure white. No angry blue or green tint.

I'm probably going to swap the driver out this weekend for a 3-mode regulated driver.


----------



## Caseman2

J3004 said:


> Yes, I tested it without the spring.
> 
> hmpf, I'll have to try other dropins


 

I had the same issue with my surefire 6p.

I just trimmed the spring until it worked. 

I ended up only needing one coil to go around the dropin and that seemed to do the trick.

I would work with out the cut spring but it would be hard to get the light on and very finicky (sp?)


----------



## Caseman2

Black Rose said:


> It seems like the first batch of those XP-G "R5" drop-ins from DX may have driver issues. There is some talk about the high current draws on the DX forums.
> 
> Mine arrived today and the current draw at the tail is not as high as what has been reported here and at DX.
> 
> I get 1.1A with a pair of 16340 cells, 1.2A with single 18650 cells, and 1.3A with single 17670 cells.
> 
> The emitter is perfectly centred and the beam is excellent.
> 
> It's freakin' bright and almost pure white. No angry blue or green tint.
> 
> I'm probably going to swap the driver out this weekend for a 3-mode regulated driver.


 
I am looking for a xp-g drop in. And I was thinking about getting the one from dx. 

What is the reason to change drivers and how much did it cost you?


----------



## Black Rose

Caseman2 said:


> I am looking for a xp-g drop in. And I was thinking about getting the one from dx.
> 
> What is the reason to change drivers and how much did it cost you?


I was expecting the driver on this module to be somewhat crappy due to it's wide voltage range and some reports, but at this point it the updated one seems to be working decently.

I may not swap this one out...haven't decided yet.

The 3-mode regulated drivers that I have been using cost just under $11 each. They are pricey but worth it for what I use them for IMO.


----------



## Kestrel

Thanks for all the info on the DX XP-G single-mode drop-in, folks. Any chance of anybody being able to post beamshots comparing it to the M60?


----------



## Caseman2

How would the xp-g be vs a r2 in throw?

I showed one of my dads buddys my solarforce when I was at his cabin. And now he went out and bought a ultrafire off of ebay with an r2 and crappy 18650 battery. and now he thinks he is the man.

So I pretty much need something that will out do him. I have my mc-e that will out flood him but I am kinda looking for something with more throw.


----------



## jackaloop

Caseman2 said:


> How would the xp-g be vs a r2 in throw?



Got the one-mode xp-g r5 dropin from DX a few days ago. I am really impressed by the brightness! It's definitely brighter than a solarforce r2 dropin. I cannot make out any difference in brightness between one 18650 or two 16340. But in respect to "throw" you will be disappointed, its beam is more on the floody side.

If anybody can explain me how to measure the current-draw of this dropin, i will post the values here. I just used my dmm to check voltages, but never measured current before. Am I right that I have to unscrew the tailcap and connect one contact of the dmm to the inserted battery(-) and the other one to the thread of the flashlight (provided I changed my dmm's settings from voltage to current)?


----------



## mvyrmnd

HKJ wrote a very good post on measurements with a DMM.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/236906


----------



## NigelBond

Looks like people are only getting the one mode xp-g from dx. Im might get the 5 mode one. Anybody here purchased the 5 mode and recived it yet? I'd like to know if it has memory and any other impressions that you have of it.


----------



## jackaloop

mvyrmnd said:


> HKJ wrote a very good post on measurements with a DMM.
> 
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/236906



Thank you for that great link!

I get 1.4A for a single 18650 and 1.18 for two 16340 with my cheap dmm.


----------



## Shrigg

Black Rose said:


> The 3-mode regulated drivers that I have been using cost just under $11 each. They are pricey but worth it for what I use them for IMO.



Do you have a link or SKU for this driver?


----------



## Black Rose

They are normally available at Shiningbeam.com. They are currently out of stock.

Bryan should have some more when the next batch of L-Mini II lights come in later this month.

According to my past purchases, the sku is 1219.


----------



## Shrigg

Excellent, thanks!


----------



## recDNA

Anybody know where I can get a Anto_XP-G_R4 P60 drop in? I searched but no luck?


----------



## plumbtrician

I am building a light with a solarforce l2 body and intend to use the highest quality 18650 batteries. Which drop in should I buy that will give me the longest runtime, 3 mode, decent flood and no explode or module burnout.


----------



## old4570

plumbtrician said:


> I am building a light with a solarforce l2 body and intend to use the highest quality 18650 batteries. Which drop in should I buy that will give me the longest runtime, 3 mode, decent flood and no explode or module burnout.



:twothumbs If your going dedicated 18650 , then there is no reason not to buy a 4.2v dedicated drop in ..

Solarforce makes a nice 3 mode low voltage drop in , I own 3 of them and they have given no problems what so ever . 

As for the  ,  , well , electronics being what they are , but then Ive never had a problem with a Solarforce drop in .


----------



## Winx

I got tired of waiting for an empty smooth XP-G drop-in. I bought one for $20 from ebay. Expensive but I hope it'll be good by changing a driver.

Yeah I know I could have bought Skyray S-R5 with R4 emitter from DX but I didn't want another host lying around. I have enough P60 hosts.


----------



## Black Rose

Grrrr. My first XP-G "R5" single mode drop-in from DX died today.

I had an issue with it last week where it wouldn't turn on. 

I gave the light a tap with my palm and it worked again. I assumed it was something loose in the driver, but it appears that was not the case...

Since the voltage range is supposed to go to 18v, I decided to try a pair of primary CR123A cells. It turned an angry blue and the light diminished rapidly.

I took the reflector off and peeled back the paper (yes, paper) isolation disc to get access to the + and - on the MCPCB so that I could attempt to direct drive the LED to see if it was an LED or driver issue.

The LED separated from the MCPCB  

There was hardly any solder connecting the LED to the MCPCB. This was most likely the cause of my previous intermittent problem.

I tried to apply some heat to the MCPCB to see if the LED would connect to it, but no such luck. It needs to be reflow soldered.


----------



## lewong

I bought the 5 mode DX XP-G drop-in and put the DX 7612 circuit board in it. I usually just keep it in the Low-Medium-High group. It works very well.

Black Rose, if the LED turned blue, does that mean the LED is dead? If you think it still works, I noted a reflow soldering video in this post. Lacking a professional heat gun, I wondered if the same thing could be accomplished with a cheap heat gun, metal plate and an infrared thermometer to monitor the temperature. The datasheet for the XP-G gives the reflow soldering characteristics for the LED.

http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXP-G.pdf


----------



## Black Rose

I believe when an LED turns blue, it's dead.

I figure what happened was that the LED became partly separated from the MCPCB and when current was applied, it heated up but couldn't dissipate the heat and 

I think I'll just head over to Cutter and order a replacement MCPCB with LED attached and rebuild the drop-in.


----------



## old4570

I had one turn blue , but after gluing the emitter to the pill all seems fine ...
blue = its overheating , if you dont go to far ? 

I have another XP-G R5 that turns blue with a 18650 , so I run it in a 1xCR123A light , and it seems to be ok .


----------



## jenskh

lewong said:


> I bought the 5 mode DX XP-G drop-in and put the DX 7612 circuit board in it. I usually just keep it in the Low-Medium-High group. It works very well.
> 
> Black Rose, if the LED turned blue, does that mean the LED is dead? If you think it still works, I noted a reflow soldering video in this post. Lacking a professional heat gun, I wondered if the same thing could be accomplished with a cheap heat gun, metal plate and an infrared thermometer to monitor the temperature. The datasheet for the XP-G gives the reflow soldering characteristics for the LED.
> 
> http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXP-G.pdf


 
I use a normal frying pan on an electrical stove. I start with relatively cold heating plate and pan. Then I turn on the plate at a level where I know the solder paste will melt in about 2 min (requires a little experimenting). I put on the pan with my PCB and led. When the solder melts, I lifts the pan from the hot plate, waits a few seconds and then put the bottom of the frying pan into water to cool everything relatively fast. This is easy, and works. The only error I have done is to use too high effect on the plate and beeing to slow to remove the pan. Just take it easy, and the timing is not that critical.


----------



## AntMan

Caseman2 said:


> How would the xp-g be vs a r2 in throw?
> 
> I showed one of my dads buddys my solarforce when I was at his cabin. And now he went out and bought a ultrafire off of ebay with an r2 and crappy 18650 battery. and now he thinks he is the man.
> 
> So I pretty much need something that will out do him. I have my mc-e that will out flood him but *I am kinda looking for something with more throw*.




No1s answered that Q! I really wont to know whats the best out there regarding throw.

Thanks


----------



## Black Rose

If you want throw, get something with an XR-E emitter.


----------



## LV426

My single mode DX XP-G R5 started "behave itself" last night, in a matter none of the 5-6 XR-E R2:s I own have... Light level decreases and rises, no actual flickering. Runs on 9V primaries.


----------



## recDNA

Is there a decent SST-50 drop in that can run on a single IMR 18650 available from one of our American Dealers? 

I'm not interested in DX nor in small scale local producers ( no PayPal and no patience to wait while they try to keep up with demand)despite the fact they may offer the very best. I'm looking for a commercial product by a manufacturer.

Basically I want to be able to use VISA, make an order, and have my pill a week later.

Any ideas?


----------



## Caseman2

AntMan said:


> No1s answered that Q! I really wont to know whats the best out there regarding throw.
> 
> Thanks


 


Yes I have noticed that.


I did some reading and I think I am going to try an aspherice (sp?) lens.

I have one one the way and i will let you know what happens :twothumbs


----------



## old4570

AntMan said:


> No1s answered that Q! I really wont to know whats the best out there regarding throw.
> 
> Thanks



It was answered ... 

Throw = around 100 Meters ..

It can be less and it can be more .. Depends on Emitter , Power , and all the other variables ...

Throw has been talked to death on CPF , and here in the P60 section as well .
Your average P60 Q5 or better XR-E running @ 1A P60 should be good for 100 Meters .. I have one or two that will exceed that bye quite a bit , and owning a lot of P60 Hosts , I can tell you there is no hard and fast rule for throw , you get what you get . If you buy 15 P60 hosts and have a lot of Cree R2 XR-E drop ins , you may get some that are exceptional , and some that are not .. 

XR-E Q5 or better is still the better choice for throw over XP-E or XP-G ..
XP-E may offer better output at lower power , XP-G will offer more output at the same power , but neither will throw better than the XR-E .

And as for how far it will throw ? No one can answer that 100% because there are to many variables involved .


----------



## jenskh

I see no reason why XRE should throw better than XPE. I have put an XPE R2 4D emitter into the XPG reflector of my Dereelight Javelin. With 3 NiMh batteries it gives me 8900 [email protected] This is as good or better than most P60 XRE modules with OP reflectors.


----------



## don.gwapo

I'm considering getting this drop-in for my solarforce L2. 

http://www.lighthound.com/Nailbende...refire-and-compatible-flashlights_p_3486.html

Is this gona be worth the money in terms of brightness? Throw or flood won't matter to me. I'm just into brightness. Any input is welcome. Thanks.


----------



## old4570

don.gwapo said:


> I'm considering getting this drop-in for my solarforce L2.
> 
> http://www.lighthound.com/Nailbende...refire-and-compatible-flashlights_p_3486.html
> 
> Is this gona be worth the money in terms of brightness? Throw or flood won't matter to me. I'm just into brightness. Any input is welcome. Thanks.



Holly Snap Batman ! It will most likely be bright , but brighter than a SSC P7 at the same current level ? And the price :sick2:

You want what you want ! One would not expect it to be bad , but $130 ????


----------



## old4570

jenskh said:


> I see no reason why XRE should throw better than XPE. I have put an XPE R2 4D emitter into the XPG reflector of my Dereelight Javelin. With 3 NiMh batteries it gives me 8900 [email protected] This is as good or better than most P60 XRE modules with OP reflectors.



I have a XP-G R4 in a MAglite , and it gives 19,000Lux @ 1meter ..

In a P60 host , none of my XP-E or XP-G emitters come close to a XR-E ..
Its no contest so far ....


----------



## jenskh

old4570 said:


> I have a XP-G R4 in a MAglite , and it gives 19,000Lux @ 1meter ..
> 
> In a P60 host , none of my XP-E or XP-G emitters come close to a XR-E ..
> Its no contest so far ....


 
For your info; the Dereelight Javelin is a P60 host.


----------



## recDNA

recDNA said:


> Is there a decent SST-50 drop in that can run on a single IMR 18650 available from one of our American Dealers?
> 
> I'm not interested in DX nor in small scale local producers ( no PayPal and no patience to wait while they try to keep up with demand)despite the fact they may offer the very best. I'm looking for a commercial product by a manufacturer.
> 
> Basically I want to be able to use VISA, make an order, and have my pill a week later.
> 
> Any ideas?


 

I want to be sure I'm clear because one poster who was nice enough to PM me misunderstood. I don't expect the SST-50 P60 to be MADE in America. I only hoped to find one SOLD by an American dealer like Jake or Dave. That way I know the product is backed up by someone I "know" (in a business sense)


----------



## old4570

jenskh said:


> For your info; the Dereelight Javelin is a P60 host.



Never said it wasnt , 

Just gave an example of a light the XP-G works in [ terrific results ] 

And if a XP-E works for you , then thats fantastic .. :candle:

Ive only had 4 XP-E R2 and one XP-E R3 drop in 
Is it 6 or 7 XP-G R5 drop ins 
and I dont know how many R2's , maybe 10 

Since I dont own , or ever used a Javelin ????? 

And its quite pointless comparing Lux @ 1meter , but my better R2's push 8500Lux or better , whilst an average R2 might do 6000 to 7000 lux ..
And all of my XP-E XP-G drop ins are sub 5000 Lux


----------



## psdiver102

forgive my ignorance. but if i want to swap out a p60 from a G2 with a 100-200 lumen lamp, could i use the original bezel, or do i need to swap out with a alum. one.


----------



## sharilewis

however if you can get him to make you an SSC-P7 direct drive that will blow it away. I had the recent opportunity to play around with one of these in an 18650-drilled 6P and it was VERY bright, almost a pure flood. Like carrying a 100 watt lightbulb

Yuasa Battery


----------



## Let It Bleed

> forgive my ignorance. but if i want to swap out a p60 from a G2 with a 100-200 lumen lamp, could i use the original bezel, or do i need to swap out with a alum. one.


I've read posts, from those who seem very knowledgeable, that it is possible to use the nitrolon bezel. You will be limited in power and won't be able to run it continuously for too long. I don’t think there are any definite numbers as it just comes down to using common sense.

I wish I had known this sooner because I passed on brand new G2 lights for $20+tax! I should have gotten one anyway at that price, but I couldn’t get past the lack of runtime. In my defense, I knew much less about flashlights at the time, and I considered incandescent flashlights a relic of the past.

If I already had a G2, I would get a Malkoff M60LL. Sometimes I have to remind myself that a true 80 lumens is usually the most I need. I don’t think I would go any higher than 140 lumens. And the higher you go, the less time you can keep it lit.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Post removed. Wrong Thread


----------



## Midnight Oil

Will there be a trend to make P60 drop-ins for 2AAs in the future? I'm trying to determine if a 2AA P60 host will also be a worthy investment.

Which P60 drop-ins can beat the old Eagletac P20A2 XR-E R2 in throw and spill brightness handsdown, with runtimes to match?

Compared to ready-made CR123 lights from Fenix, Quark, and Eagletac, the P60 route offers many more advantages: a wide selection of drop-ins, the freedom to upgrade and customize, etc., and all that at competitive prices, so why do people keep buying those ready-made lights? What is their allure that keeps some people off the P60 wagon?


----------



## kosPap

thermal issues.....heat dissipation is way less unless yuo rig a way to transfer heat from the module to the body (aluminum foil)

indeed AA P60 lights will become common, Solarforce, javelin, now wolfeyes....

on the otehr hand some companies are making lights with a surefire 6P lookalike body and swicth but with a fixed head....

Surefire and solarfroce are the first ones and we WILL be seeing more of them....


----------



## Hrvoje

New SSC P7 C bin 3-mode drop-in at DX. Not bad for $17.35. The led alone is worth more.

Hrvoje


----------



## sfca

kosPap said:


> thermal issues.....heat dissipation is way less unless yuo rig a way to transfer heat from the module to the body (aluminum foil)
> 
> indeed AA P60 lights will become common, Solarforce, javelin, now wolfeyes....
> 
> on the otehr hand *some companies are making lights with a surefire 6P lookalike body and swicth but with a fixed head....*
> 
> Surefire *and solarfroce *are the first ones and we WILL be seeing more of them....



Inside info? Care to share?


----------



## Superorb

I'm looking for a drop-in with the following 3 levels: 1L, 20L, 100+L

As long as it has a low of around 1L, the other levels aren't as important. Does one exist or do I have to built one?


----------



## old4570

Superorb said:


> I'm looking for a drop-in with the following 3 levels: 1L, 20L, 100+L
> 
> As long as it has a low of around 1L, the other levels aren't as important. Does one exist or do I have to built one?



You may want to try the ramping drop in from DX .. Esp if you want very low lumen .. dx/sku.17593 I do like mine , its very nice and easy to use .


----------



## Superorb

old4570 said:


> You may want to try the ramping drop in from DX .. Esp if you want very low lumen .. dx/sku.17593 I do like mine , its very nice and easy to use .


Does it have modes to jump to without doing the ramp every time I'd like to select another level?


----------



## kramer5150

Superorb said:


> Does it have modes to jump to without doing the ramp every time I'd like to select another level?



No its just one mode, ramps from 1-100%. I find it works best with a reverse clicky too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Oa0KfMjwRk


----------



## Midnight Oil

Which P60 drop-ins can match or exceed the runtimes of Fenix, Quark, and Eagletac lights *at similar output levels* when using identical batteries?

For example, the Quark 123^2 R5 performs as follows:
22 OTF lumens for 20 hrs (@ 50 ma)
85 OTF lumens for 4.5 hrs (@ 250 ma)
230 OTF lumens for 1.8 hrs (@ 990 ma)

As most of you know, Quark lights' specs are conservative and the lights' performance closely matches or exceeds them. Which drop-ins can match those runtime numbers at similar output levels?

Thanks.


----------



## red02

Is there any chance the MD2 ring will work in the Javelin with an M30?

Since it's made to be a P60 host, is there any reason it wouldn't?


----------



## eoed

I've just found these on DX.
SST-50
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.36029
SSC P7
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.36030

Which will be a better choice ??


----------



## Superorb

eoed said:


> I've just found these on DX.
> SST-50
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.36029
> SSC P7
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.36030
> 
> Which will be a better choice ??


Those Chinese and their strobe modes...


----------



## Mike_TX

I've seen multiple references to the aluminum foil heat transfer trick, but never any description. Is there any chance of shorting when you introduce conductive foil into the head area?

Anyone care to point me to a post or something that describes how it's done?

TIA -

.
.


----------



## Wolf359

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/230854

Improving heat sinking on P60 style drop ins


----------



## Mike_TX

Wolf359 said:


> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/230854
> 
> Improving heat sinking on P60 style drop ins



Thanks, Wolf - not the Al foil solution, but it apparently works. :thumbsup:

.
.


----------



## tsask

recDNA said:


> I I don't expect the SST-50 P60 to be MADE in America. I only hoped to find one SOLD by an American dealer like Jake or Dave. That way I know the product is backed up by someone I "know" (in a business sense)


 
BatteryJunction has a 3 level SST-50 drop in. It ships from the State of Conneticut in the USA. I ordered one with the 6P UltraFire.


----------



## sol-leks

Hrvoje said:


> New SSC P7 C bin 3-mode drop-in at DX. Not bad for $17.35. The led alone is worth more.
> 
> Hrvoje



This caught my eye too. Any one have any more thoughts on this guy? I may have to get one.


----------



## glenda17

Just recieved a ThruNite XPG R5 1.5A 4.2V 3 mode drop-in. Extremely bright, brighter than any P7 or MCE dropin I have tried.


----------



## dirtech

red02 said:


> Is there any chance the MD2 ring will work in the Javelin with an M30?
> 
> Since it's made to be a P60 host, is there any reason it wouldn't?



MD2 ring will not work in javelin. It was designed to work in the MD2 host by threading into the head and also works to hold the drop in.


----------



## uncle wong

......


----------



## old4570

sol-leks said:


> This caught my eye too. Any one have any more thoughts on this guy? I may have to get one.



For the price , its well worth it , personally dont care for the modes offered , or that particular driver [ If its the same one used in the MC-E drop in ] , as it was rather limiting in the current draw [ Intentional perhaps ] 

I look forward to reading any reviews by test bunnies !


----------



## kosPap

well here are some measurements of the Solarforce low voltage single mode module...







Lux were measuremt in MY lightbox and lumens were extrapolated....

I got to apologize for not commenting mor ebut I am kinda in a hurry...the table says it all though....
will be back with Dx11836 and SLF Low voltage tri-mode measurements in the weekend


----------



## kosPap

and here is the DX11836 (newer version with red PCB) measurements...






What I fopund iteresting the the increased performance with ONE Li-Ion or 3x Nimhs....other multipower boards like the Keenan variants do not do this!


----------



## Superorb

^^ No 18650 in the tests?


----------



## Midnight Oil

I got a bit confused after reading several posts...

Does the operating voltage range of a P60 drop-in indicate which kind of driver it has? For example, I see a drop-in designed for 1 AA, 2AAs, and 1 18650 that is rated for 0.8V-4.2V. 

Does this mean this drop-in has a boost circuit so that the output will be the same for all 3 battery configurations. 

Does it also mean output is regulated for all 3 battery configurations until the voltage falls below 0.8V and the light goes into direct drive?

Another related question...

Do some P60 drop-ins have a low-voltage protection mechanism that turns off the light to prevent the Li-Ion battery or batteries from over-discharging, while others that don't simply fall out of regulation, go into direct drive, and allow the battery or batteries to continue powering the light with dimming output?

Thanks.


----------



## old4570

Midnight Oil said:


> I got a bit confused after reading several posts...
> 
> Does the operating voltage range of a P60 drop-in indicate which kind of driver it has? For example, I see a drop-in designed for 1 AA, 2AAs, and 1 18650 that is rated for 0.8V-4.2V.
> 
> Does this mean this drop-in has a boost circuit so that the output will be the same for all 3 battery configurations.
> 
> Does it also mean output is regulated for all 3 battery configurations until the voltage falls below 0.8V and the light goes into direct drive?
> 
> Another related question...
> 
> Do some P60 drop-ins have a low-voltage protection mechanism that turns off the light to prevent the Li-Ion battery or batteries from over-discharging, while others that don't simply fall out of regulation, go into direct drive, and allow the battery or batteries to continue powering the light with dimming output?
> 
> Thanks.



No , lets say solarforce 0.8v - 4.2v drop in ..

With a single AA it will do about 80 lumen , if you feed it higher quality AA's it may go as high as 100 Lumen ..

2 x AA may give you around 180Lumen up to over 200 depending on the batteries ...

Its just not current but also voltage ..

Lets talk 5W emitter ... 1.5v x Amps = 5W [ 3.33333 Amps ] 
A single AA simply cant do 3.33333 Amps , so no way are you going to see full power ..

2xAA = 3v so = 3v x Amps = 5Watts [ 1.66666Amps ] Now this is doable 

4.2v battery x Amps = 5W [ 1.19Amps ] 

Now here is the thing , those 3mode low voltage drop ins suck more than that , in fact my good one is more like 1.7A with a 4.2 = 7.14W 

Now this is over simplified , but I hope you get the idea ...

My best guess , is the Solarforce low voltage driver is direct driver until you hit 3.7v [ maybe ] and then it boosts ...

The older 3v-4.2v Solarforce drivers were direct drive , but once you hit 3v the inbuilt protection would simply turn the light off ..
No light under 3v , [ possibly just the LED very slightly glowing ] 

A lot of the 3v-4.2v and 3v-8.4v drivers have protection built in that starts at 3v ... Not all , but most of them , at least the ones I have ...

The 0.8v to 4.2v , I guess it means the protection will cut in at 0.8v and the light wont work any more ... [ Havent run a AA down that far with the SF LV drop in ]


----------



## Superorb

I'd love a P60 drop-in that will protect 18650 cells at 2.8v but also has a LOW low mode and is fully regulated down to 2.8v. I don't think it exists.


----------



## kosPap

Superorb said:


> ^^ No 18650 in the tests?


 
no, it was not convenient.....if these modules ARE direct drive, performance can be a bit higher with the 18650.....

*Midnight Oil* this is for you, it explains things on the multimodes perfectly

Solarforce R2-M 3-mode measurements...







Sorry guys I was too lazy to put them in a proper table...thsi comes from my notebook and was writen/scribed on of my thigh....

*Notes*
Lux are what I mesaured in MY lightbox....
A Solarforce flat head was used (for the earlier measurements too)...the toothed one drops output in my box by 7-10? percent....(cuts down spill)
For a close approximation of actual lumens you can use this chart

enjoy, kostas


----------



## Paul_in_Maryland

*Re: P60 regulated 2.8-4.2V with low mode*



Superorb said:


> I'd love a P60 drop-in that will protect 18650 cells at 2.8v but also has a LOW low mode and is fully regulated down to 2.8v. I don't think it exists.



You might find what you're looking for in Thrunite's XP-G 1.5A low-voltage 3-stage module. According to flashlightconnection.com, it's regulated from 2.8 to 4.2V. But according to another dealer's Web page (I forget which one), it's regulated from 3.6 to 4.2V. I'm sure the truth is displayed in the label, but neither site shows the label.


----------



## Paul_in_Maryland

*Re: How bright on one non-lithium AA cell?*



old4570 said:


> No , lets say solarforce 0.8v - 4.2v drop in ..
> 
> With a single AA it will do about 80 lumen , if you feed it higher quality AA's it may go as high as 100 Lumen ..
> 
> ... My best guess , is the Solarforce low voltage driver is direct driver until you hit 3.7v [ maybe ] and then it boosts ...


I can't speak to the Solarforce. But I do own two Dereelight XP-G modules:

2.8-4.2V, 1-stage, 1.2A to the LED
0.9-4.2V, 3-stage, 1.5A to the LED

I run the 2.8-4.2V version with three NiMH AAs (3.7V under load).
I run the 0.9-4.2V version with one NiZn AA (1.6V under load).
The latter at 1.6V appears to be 80 percent as bright as the former on 3.7V.


----------



## Superorb

*Re: P60 regulated 2.8-4.2V with low mode*



Paul_in_Maryland said:


> You might find what you're looking for in Thrunite's XP-G 1.5A low-voltage 3-stage module. According to flashlightconnection.com, it's regulated from 2.8 to 4.2V. But according to another dealer's Web page (I forget which one), it's regulated from 3.6 to 4.2V. I'm sure the truth is displayed in the label, but neither site shows the label.


It's only regulated down to 3.6v as per the manufacturer's website, so I don't even know why they mention 2.8-4.2v unless it protects LiIon cells which I haven't heard. I have read that the low mode is pretty low though. I might have to take the plunge even though it's triple the cost of the host


----------



## Chingyul

I'm having some issues with my DX SKU: 11836.
The switch sometimes doesn't want to turn on the light. I have to give it a whack to get it to connect.
It's the way the LA sits in my 6P. I tried it with a single coil of the outer spring, and it'll switch on everytime, but with it on, I can't fully screw down the bezel.

Anyone else have this issue, and a possible fix?


On that note. At the time (09/20/2008), it was one of the more well regarded DX P60 1-mode drop-ins. Anyone have a suggestion on something better? It does run warm, but it blasts out a lot of light. I'm running AW's LiFePO4s.


----------



## kosPap

Dan Ching said:


> I'm having some issues with my DX SKU: 11836.
> The switch sometimes doesn't want to turn on the light. I have to give it a whack to get it to connect.
> It's the way the LA sits in my 6P. I tried it with a single coil of the outer spring, and it'll switch on everytime, but with it on, I can't fully screw down the bezel.
> 
> Anyone else have this issue, and a possible fix?
> .


 

seems you got to cope with the not-fully screw down the bezel. it ahs been an issue for some time with various modules...One culprit has been the length of the brass pill (how much it extends below the reflector) Either it is too long (unsolvable) or you can screw in the pill a bit more


----------



## psychbeat

take the big spring off and smash in some aluminum coke can
strips or aluminum foil or wrap it with copper tape.

it should make contact then and have better heat transfer +
you can screw it down the whole way.

also, screw the pill further into the reflector but be
careful not to smash the emitter


----------



## Paul_in_Maryland

*Re: P60 regulated 2.8-4.2V with low mode*



Superorb said:


> It's only regulated down to 3.6v as per the manufacturer's website, so I don't even know why they mention 2.8-4.2v unless it protects LiIon cells which I haven't heard.D


Superorb is correct; the manufacturer's page for the low-voltage 1.5A XP-G is here. Thanks for clearing this up. I guess I'll wait for the Dereelight 1.5A XP-G...which, I trust, will be regulated from 0.9V to 4.2V. Accordig to distributor FlashCrazy, it will be made in 1-stage (1S) only.


----------



## Superorb

*Re: P60 regulated 2.8-4.2V with low mode*



Paul_in_Maryland said:


> Superorb is correct; the manufacturer's page for the low-voltage 1.5A XP-G is here. Thanks for clearing this up. I guess I'll wait for the Dereelight 1.5A XP-G...which, I trust, will be regulated from 0.9V to 4.2V. Accordig to distributor FlashCrazy, it will be made in 1-stage (1S) only.


According to Thrunite it does not offer protection for LiIon cells either on the 2.7-4.2v drop-ins


----------



## Midnight Oil

Thanks for the data, _*kosPap*_.

Thanks of the detailed answers, _*Old4570*_


----------



## Midnight Oil

I asked Dave (Nailbender) about his XPG and XRE drop-ins and this is what he has to say:

Originally Posted by *Midnight Oil* 

 

_Dave, or anyone else who knows, so Dave can keep building,_

_For the following drop-ins..._

_XREs 3.6-(6/8.4)V regulated 3-mode_

_XPGs 3.6-(6/8.4)V & 1-4.2V regulated 3-mode _

_
At what voltages will they fall out of regulation?
_
*Sorry I don't have this information, they are regular buck drivers that work fine for 18650 or 2XCR123* 
_Do the XPGs *1-4.2V* also have a boost driver?_
*Yes they have to be boost drivers other wise you could not run a single at that is 1/2 the voltage as the VF of led.* 


I'll be using a single protected 18650.

*If using a 18650 don't order the boost driver as the buck drivers will work better. *IMHO


I've read VidPro's post in HKJ's thread about leds and voltages. He explains that for a given discharged capacity (in other words, how many mAh is still left in the cell), a cell registers different voltages depending on the rate at which it has been discharged: the higher the discharge rate, the lower the voltage registered, and vice versa. I've seen discharge curves for identical cells at different current draws, and they coincide with VidPro's statement. Furthermore, voltage readings also vary among brands: at an identical remaining capacity and having been discharged at the same rate, different brands can register drastically different voltages.

As such, it sounds like in order to maximize runtime before reaching the drop-in cut-off voltage, I should select the operation voltage range of the drop-in based on how I'll use the light: a lower cut-off voltage if I'll be using the light at its highest setting all the time (high draw), and a higher cut-off voltage if I'll be using the light at the mid to low settings (low draw) most of the time?

I've been searching for my first drop-in based on my interpretations above; please feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken. I thought the Nailbender XPG 1-4.2V drop-in would be perfect for (1) 18650 because it had a boost circuit that would continue to power the light on high even if the battery voltage dropped to say 3.2V, which would still be above the over-discharge voltage limit for high draw. On the other hand, the Thrunite drop-in mentioned in the previous posts would have already gone into DD by the time the voltage dropped to 3.2V. As a result, I thought though the Nailbender might not be as bright as the Thrunite on high, I would get more runtime out of it and it's already pretty darn bright. 

After reading Nailbender's response, I'm confused. In what ways will running the 3.6-(6/8.4V) version on (1) 18650 be better? I'm thinking it will cutoff at 3.6V, which is a lot sooner than say 3.0V which is possible with the 1-4.2V version.


----------



## Midnight Oil

A different question regarding the Thrunite drop-in mentioned in the previous posts. The specs say it will go into DD @ 3.6V. That happens only if the light is left on the high mode whose Vf is higher than 3.6V right? If, @ 3.6V, I switch to the low mode, which has a much lower Vf, the buck circuit will kick it again and the light will no longer be in DD right?


----------



## GarageBoy

How efficient are nailbender's drop ins vs sandwich shoppe's shark buck?


----------



## recDNA

tsask said:


> BatteryJunction has a 3 level SST-50 drop in. It ships from the State of Conneticut in the USA. I ordered one with the 6P UltraFire.


 
Thanks for the tip 


If it didn't have strobe I would have purchased one. I read memory advances to next mode each time you turn it on so sometimes it will start in strobe. Very bad IMO. Strobe should be hidden or absent IMO


----------



## psychbeat

Midnight Oil said:


> I asked Dave (Nailbender) about his XPG and XRE drop-ins and this is what he has to say:
> 
> Originally Posted by *Midnight Oil*
> 
> 
> 
> _Dave, or anyone else who knows, so Dave can keep building,_
> 
> _For the following drop-ins..._
> 
> _XREs 3.6-(6/8.4)V regulated 3-mode_
> 
> _XPGs 3.6-(6/8.4)V & 1-4.2V regulated 3-mode _
> 
> _
> 
> At what voltages will they fall out of regulation?
> _
> 
> *Sorry I don't have this information, they are regular buck drivers that work fine for 18650 or 2XCR123*
> 
> _Do the XPGs *1-4.2V* also have a boost driver?_
> *Yes they have to be boost drivers other wise you could not run a single at that is 1/2 the voltage as the VF of led.*
> 
> 
> I'll be using a single protected 18650.
> 
> *If using a 18650 don't order the boost driver as the buck drivers will work better. *IMHO
> 
> 
> I've read VidPro's post in HKJ's thread about leds and voltages. He explains that for a given discharged capacity (in other words, how many mAh is still left in the cell), a cell registers different voltages depending on the rate at which it has been discharged: the higher the discharge rate, the lower the voltage registered, and vice versa. I've seen discharge curves for identical cells at different current draws, and they coincide with VidPro's statement. Furthermore, voltage readings also vary among brands: at an identical remaining capacity and having been discharged at the same rate, different brands can register drastically different voltages.
> 
> As such, it sounds like in order to maximize runtime before reaching the drop-in cut-off voltage, I should select the operation voltage range of the drop-in based on how I'll use the light: a lower cut-off voltage if I'll be using the light at its highest setting all the time (high draw), and a higher cut-off voltage if I'll be using the light at the mid to low settings (low draw) most of the time?
> 
> I've been searching for my first drop-in based on my interpretations above; please feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken. I thought the Nailbender XPG 1-4.2V drop-in would be perfect for (1) 18650 because it had a boost circuit that would continue to power the light on high even if the battery voltage dropped to say 3.2V, which would still be above the over-discharge voltage limit for high draw. On the other hand, the Thrunite drop-in mentioned in the previous posts would have already gone into DD by the time the voltage dropped to 3.2V. As a result, I thought though the Nailbender might not be as bright as the Thrunite on high, I would get more runtime out of it and it's already pretty darn bright.
> 
> After reading Nailbender's response, I'm confused. In what ways will running the 3.6-(6/8.4V) version on (1) 18650 be better? I'm thinking it will cutoff at 3.6V, which is a lot sooner than say 3.0V which is possible with the 1-4.2V version.



hmmm I dont know too much about this stuff BUT
when my NB 2.5a 3mode SST50 cuts off on HIGH I 
can switch it down to low and it will run on low.
Im assuming til cutoff.
also, I get over an hour on high on a single 18650 (aw 2600)
and thats at 2.5 a - so the runtime of the XP-G should be
pretty good. 
I think that yer splitting hairs on 15min or less of runtime on
high probably.
Id like someone who's an expert to answer this tho


----------



## Midnight Oil

psychbeat,

That's good news, your getting more than 1 hour for your SST using (1) 18650. 

Runtime, not just raw output, is very important to me. I just order from Dave that drop-in I mentioned, except it's the 5 mode one, which apparently has a buck/boost driver. 

Now I just gotta talk myself into getting the very expensive Pila charger, because I've read that the WF-139 is just not worth it. But I'm new to flashlights, so I can't really justify the purchase of the Pila.:mecry:

My buying it would be like someone just getting started in tennis, and, despite not having mastered the basics, goes out and buys a $200 racquet. The same can be said about deciding to purchase those expensive lubes. C'mon! it's only a flashlight, it's not freaking NASA!


----------



## psychbeat

hehe- yeah -its a rad module Im really happy with it!

I just got an R2 warm xpg Linger Special 2.8 single mode

and its UNREAL how nice a flood it is for trail riding on my
bike. 

Ive only got a crappy DSD charger and it works fine albeit
slow - takes all night to charge a dead 18650. you also
dont want to leave it in there trickle charging all day after its 
full. I use it for my RCR123 (16340) and have had no problems.
my batts get charged twice a week. so far so good. Id like a hobby
charger at some point if I get a 26650 host but thats month$ away.

one other tip- an extra cell in an old cliff bar wrapper or sandwich
bag is really light and easy to carry:thumbsup:


----------



## Chingyul

I did a 2 layer wrap around the brass pill and it seems to have solved my contact issue.
Now, any issues with it it being there? Any chance of it melting or screwing up my 6P. The light does get pretty warm with my drop in.


----------



## old4570

Dan Ching said:


> I did a 2 layer wrap around the brass pill and it seems to have solved my contact issue.
> Now, any issues with it it being there? Any chance of it melting or screwing up my 6P. The light does get pretty warm with my drop in.



Good , it means the drop in is heatsinking into the body ...
Did you get a multi mode drop in ? If not , well as long as it does not start to burn your hand .


----------



## Chingyul

Nope, just the single mode (SKU 11836) from DX.
Guessing now it's heatsinking more to to the body (well, as much as 2 layers of aluminum foil will help), it'll warm up faster. Not a big deal for now, but maybe I'll pick up a multimode down the road. 
Thanks


----------



## Nouiate

Just got DX's new $17 P7 drop-in (sku36030). Build quality is fine. Has memory for the 3 modes. Visible PWM on low, but the low mode is pretty decently low, which is nice. I'd say <45 lumens. 

Very floody beam, but you get that with any quad-die in a P60. There is a donut hole in the center, unfortunately. On high it is very very bright. No heat issues in my Solarforce L2p host that I can tell.

However, all in all, for $17 to turn your SF 6P or L2 into a 400 lumen beast you can't really go wrong.

I'll do some runtime test and get a current draw reading, but so far I like it.


----------



## Superorb

Nouiate said:


> Just got DX's new $17 P7 drop-in (sku36030). Build quality is fine. Has memory for the 3 modes. Visible PWM on low, but the low mode is pretty decently low, which is nice. I'd say <45 lumens.
> 
> Very floody beam, but you get that with any quad-die in a P60. There is a donut hole in the center, unfortunately. On high it is very very bright. No heat issues in my Solarforce L2p host that I can tell.
> 
> However, all in all, for $17 to turn your SF 6P or L2 into a 400 lumen beast you can't really go wrong.
> 
> I'll do some runtime test and get a current draw reading, but so far I like it.


A decent low is under 5L


----------



## old4570

Superorb said:


> A decent low is under 5L



To each there own , 5L from a SSC P7 :mecry: , 50L is more like it ... 
But you really want a medium setting . 

Looking forward to some current readings ..


----------



## old4570

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3377237&postcount=955 

Link to SSC P7 and XP-G R5 beamshots ...


----------



## Superorb

old4570 said:


> To each there own , 5L from a SSC P7 :mecry: , 50L is more like it ...
> But you really want a medium setting .
> 
> Looking forward to some current readings ..


I don't expect 5L from a P7. I'd be happy with 1L, 10L and 100L for my night stand light, but I haven't yet found a drop-in that would fit that bill.


----------



## old4570

Superorb said:


> I don't expect 5L from a P7. I'd be happy with 1L, 10L and 100L for my night stand light, but I haven't yet found a drop-in that would fit that bill.



And you most likely wont .. Having said that I do have a drop in that comes close , but it was DIY , and a lot had to do with simple pot luck in what the driver did . And the one I got is for some reason low output [ low current drain as well ] and works for me as I run it 2xAA . Its able to run on dry cells [ the cheapest and nastiest ] all the way up to 18650 . And when I make a battery tube , it should even be 2xAAA capable . 

3L - 20L - 80L on Dry Cells ..

You may wish to consider the variable output drop in from DX , mine has no modes though .. 

If only one could source the Akoray programmable driver :thumbsup:


----------



## Manual Man

Sorry to put this here but I thought you guys probably know the most about p60 drop-ins so here goes: I am looking for a p60 drop-in to go in a WF-502b host ($7.30 of eBay) and was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction....I am building a sub $20 thrower for rabbit shooting at night with a .22LR (I will be adding a smooth reflector as well if it does not require any serious know how) will probably be using 18650's with it. Any advice?


----------



## old4570

Manual Man said:


> Sorry to put this here but I thought you guys probably know the most about p60 drop-ins so here goes: I am looking for a p60 drop-in to go in a WF-502b host ($7.30 of eBay) and was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction....I am building a sub $20 thrower for rabbit shooting at night with a .22LR (I will be adding a smooth reflector as well if it does not require any serious know how) will probably be using 18650's with it. Any advice?



1/
2/
3/

Well , these are your DX choices ... 

XR-E R2 will be your best choice , also check out Kaidomain.com


----------



## kosPap

andif you have a 502 host, then the apsheric lkens that Dx also sells is a goof fit and focus....for lighting up and not searching it is far better with its concetrated beam


----------



## Superorb

old4570 said:


> And you most likely wont .. Having said that I do have a drop in that comes close , but it was DIY , and a lot had to do with simple pot luck in what the driver did . And the one I got is for some reason low output [ low current drain as well ] and works for me as I run it 2xAA . Its able to run on dry cells [ the cheapest and nastiest ] all the way up to 18650 . And when I make a battery tube , it should even be 2xAAA capable .
> 
> 3L - 20L - 80L on Dry Cells ..
> 
> You may wish to consider the variable output drop in from DX , mine has no modes though ..
> 
> If only one could source the Akoray programmable driver :thumbsup:


My father is an EE, I've been talking to him about designing a P60 drop-in that will do what I want it to. They use LEDs in everything they build anyways, so he should be able to point me in the right direction. I've got 5 hosts waiting for a drop-in that I like, so that's at least 5 of them to assemble.


----------



## Manual Man

Thanks for that....another question though: the $8.45 one (SKU:11836,(the first one)) someone brought up the issue of the manufacturer changing the DC-DC board and now it only makes about 120 lumen....is this still a problem or has it been changed back? (also how hard is it to change the board to something better?)


----------



## Midnight Oil

I received a XPG R3 from Dave (Nailbender) last week. The tint is 5000 K neutral white, which appears slightly green next to my ET P100A2 4300 K neutral white.

The hotspot has 9 very noticeable dark spots arranged in a 3x3 grid pattern. The center one is the largest, and becomes a big dark spot with increasing distance. The culprit---a smooth reflector. This must be what some Quark Turbo users complain about.

Dave explained to me that those dark spots are actually die marks. An OP reflector would have covered them up. I didn't know that when I ordered. I had seen beamshots of the new LD20 with the XP-G R4 with the smooth reflector, and it's hotspot was perfect, so I thought I'd be getting something similar. Rings, maybe, but not this.

Why are these die marks not visible in XREs and XPEs with smooth reflectors? Is it the relatively large size of the XPG die that's the problem?

Lesson learned---go with the OP next time, if there is a next time.

Very disappointed. Not a good start going down the drop-in road. First the flashlight host and now this. Considering stopping the bleeding right here. This has been a big mistake. It's a freakin mine field. Good thing I haven't purchased the 18650 and the PILA charger, so I'm not in too deep. :sigh:

Regardless, thanks to everyone who has responded to my many questions in many areas of this hobby. It's been nice talking to y'all. Lights out.


----------



## Ziemas

Midnight Oil said:


> I received a XPG R3 from Dave (Nailbender) last week. The tint is 5000 K neutral white, which appears slightly green next to my ET P100A2 4300 K neutral white.
> 
> The hotspot has 9 very noticeable dark spots arranged in a 3x3 grid pattern. The center one is the largest, and becomes a big dark spot with increasing distance. The culprit---a smooth reflector. This must be what some Quark Turbo users complain about.
> 
> Dave explained to me that those dark spots are actually die marks. An OP reflector would have covered them up. I didn't know that when I ordered. I had seen beamshots of the new LD20 with the XP-G R4 with the smooth reflector, and it's hotspot was perfect, so I thought I'd be getting something similar. Rings, maybe, but not this.
> 
> Why are these die marks not visible in XREs and XPEs with smooth reflectors? Is it the relatively large size of the XPG die that's the problem?
> 
> Lesson learned---go with the OP next time, if there is a next time.
> 
> Very disappointed. Not a good start going down the drop-in road. First the flashlight host and now this. Considering stopping the bleeding right here. This has been a big mistake. It's a freakin mine field. Good thing I haven't purchased the 18650 and the PILA charger, so I'm not in too deep. :sigh:
> 
> Regardless, thanks to everyone who has responded to my many questions in many areas of this hobby. It's been nice talking to y'all. Lights out.


What are you using your light for that this is such a major problem?


----------



## psychbeat

just get an op reflector and stick the pill in that.
Im sure NB will send u one for cheap.
no reason to waaaah 

I bet it looks fine outside btw.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Ziemas,

A $5 light is sufficient for my actual lighting needs, but like many members here, I also like nice bright lights, just for the heck of it. It may have some connections to our prehistoric days, when the ability to make fire meant life or death :candle:. There is a strange satisfaction that comes with being in control of a light source:thinking:. I hope that's not unhealthy.

I'm disappointed because, since I decided to go the drop-in route, I've spent a lot of time looking into hosts, lubes, drop-ins, batteries, and chargers, in a "dollar wise pound foolish" manner, now that I think about it, and came away with a light that still falls well short of my expectations, one of them being a nice beam, a criteria I adopted when I was comparing Fenix, Quark, and ET lights. 

Lost time, opportunity costs, and ultimately a bad decision regarding reflectors---that's what did it. Really, the die mark problem is out of left field. I wonder if other brands of drop-ins that use a smooth reflector with the XPG also have this problem.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Psychbeat,

I was pretty excited to hear the kind of runtime you're able to get out of your configuration, and was eager with anticipation for much of last week, waiting for my drop-in's arrival. Then I popped it in the host and !? Such an anticlimax:sigh:.

The pill is secured with medium duty thread lock, and I can't seem to get it loose short of busting the whole works. Any ideas? I've tried rubbing alcohol and it didn't budge. Someone told me to try Coke; the idea is that the acid will eat through the stuff, but I'm not that daring, yet.

Other than DX where can I get a reasonably priced OP reflector? 

I was planning to get the brightest 8-degree XRE from NB next. I expect it'll be something like the Malkoff M30, which, per Gene's description, will blind someone within a 100 feet, and easily illuminate objects up to 350 ft. I wonder if that is a realistic expectation.


----------



## psychbeat

just use a small strap wrench or a towel and 
some pliers - Ive loosened both of my NB dropins
with my hands on the reflector and
pliers on the pill
I doubt you'll break anything if yer
patient and careful.
Im sure Dave will sell you an OP
reflector and ship it right away.
DX will take forever.
skip the lubes n fancy chargers etc.
(unless yer really OCD or into maintenance)
Ive been using a cheapo DSD charger
and getting great results - just used my 2.8A
Linger Special tonight in 
the rain for an hour and a half or so
before it dimmed n flashed. 
good luck!:thumbsup:


----------



## Midnight Oil

Went medieval on the drop-in with a pair of pliers and a blowtorch. Finally got it loose. Maybe I will take your advice and order an OP reflector from NB.

Out of curiosity, I just read selfbuilt's review of the FENIX TK12 R5. It has a smooth reflector but no die marks show up in its hotspot. It's beam is very much artifact free. What I take away from NB's explanation of the defect in my drop-in is that the die marks are unavoidable with a smooth reflector:thinking:.

Could it be some geometric constraint inherent in the D26 form factor?


----------



## neoseikan

Hi, one question.
Why you want a MC-E / P7 / SST-50 P60 dropin?
In what case you will use it?
And how much did you pay for them>?


----------



## psychbeat

MO:
Fenix might have custom reflectors made for
their lights where NB makes his stuff to order
by hand from available parts I think. 
artifacts in a smo ref are fairly common 
otherwise everyone would use them for the
added throw. its a trade off. you might try tuning
the beam yourself by trying different depths of 
threading in the pill- its probably tedious. 
these are custom lights that are bleeding edge
and not mass produced obviously so require more
involvement by the user. the upshot is you have 
an emitter that was JUST released and not fitted in
many/any mass produced flashlights.

NEO:
Ive got an SST50 3 mode 2.5A from Nailbender 
that I bought because I love the modular form factor
of the C2 (mines bored for 18650) and cus they look 
cool  that way I can just get a new module when
new emitters are released and keep my trusty ol
C2 Im now so attached to. I also have one of his
dual XPG modules in 3B tint single mode 2.8A
the SST 50 drop in was 65$ shipped CONUS.
I like how the SST50 looks like a super big smooth
XPG and I like floody lights for tight forest trails.


----------



## old4570

neoseikan said:


> Hi, one question.
> Why you want a MC-E / P7 / SST-50 P60 dropin?
> In what case you will use it?
> And how much did you pay for them>?



Why ? = Power , serious illumination of your surroundings .
Case = When things go bump in the night .
Pay = DIY [ make them myself ] 

ATM = I have 3 SSC P7 P60 lights and one MTE for a total of 4 / SSC P7 [ MTE was ?? $35 ] 
Sorry , also one MCE ..


----------



## sfca

Midnight Oil said:


> Psychbeat,
> 
> I was pretty excited to hear the kind of runtime you're able to get out of your configuration, and was eager with anticipation for much of last week, waiting for my drop-in's arrival. Then I popped it in the host and !? Such an anticlimax:sigh:.
> 
> The pill is secured with medium duty thread lock, and I can't seem to get it loose short of busting the whole works. Any ideas? I've tried rubbing alcohol and it didn't budge. Someone told me to try Coke; the idea is that the acid will eat through the stuff, but I'm not that daring, yet.
> 
> Other than DX where can I get a reasonably priced OP reflector?
> 
> *I was planning to get the brightest 8-degree XRE from NB next. I expect it'll be something like the Malkoff M30, *which, per Gene's description, will blind someone within a 100 feet, and easily illuminate objects up to 350 ft. I wonder if that is a realistic expectation.



M30 I believe is a flood light. If you want a thrower you're better off with a used M60 @ the marketplace.
Since you already have this module you _could _try to sell/trade it there..

Otherwise like psychbeat said - just get a OP reflector from Nailbender. The beam will be much better then... If you're going to keep it, might as well use it!!

I have a Nailbender 2.8A SST-50 on the way.. I bought a DE bin (bluest bin) from photonfanatic.
I've had one before so I'm guessing 2.8A + custom reflector and blue-white light = very, very blinding.


----------



## neoseikan

@SFCA: Then, won't you worry about the heat from 2.8A SST-50?
It's a different story.
Give 1A on the XP-G, the baseboard get hot in seconds, really hot, my finger have to leave it.
2.8A?
The P60 structure is not quite good on heat transferring, so all the heat is kept around the LED.
I think 1.5A for SST-50 on P60 is good and I'd like to produce one, but 2.8A is too high to get a good output.


----------



## red02

I remember reading that the M30 goes into 'quasi-direct drive' with NiMH. I don't really like the sound of that... Will I be able to get full output from a M30 with 3xNiMH?


----------



## psychbeat

the m30 is the lower voltage single cell version of the 
m60. 
not a flood.

NEO- 2.8A in a P60 host works fine.
especially with some copper tape and AS-5 on 
the pill threads.

~500 OTF lumens


----------



## DLF

Looks like your D1500 drop-in is driving the XP-G at 1.5A already, Neo. How hot does that get in a typical P60 host (let's say, a P6L)?


----------



## sfca

neoseikan said:


> @SFCA: Then, won't you worry about the heat from 2.8A SST-50?
> It's a different story.
> Give 1A on the XP-G, the baseboard get hot in seconds, really hot, my finger have to leave it.
> 2.8A?
> The P60 structure is not quite good on heat transferring, so all the heat is kept around the LED.
> I think 1.5A for SST-50 on P60 is good and I'd like to produce one, but 2.8A is too high to get a good output.




Yeah definitely it will get hot. I have a defensive use for it, so doesn't take much on-time to blind somebody hahaha!

1.5A may be a good seller for the SST-50 - but you should ask around first whether people will be happy with the output. Have a LEO poll on whether they (professional use) would have a use for it.

Careful though, it might be like the case of 4sevens "warm" lights - big demand, but no actual buyers.

People also would need insight into _why _you chose 1.5A; a well worded reason would do marvels.
A module like the Malkoffs (MC-E) would solve heating problem. Oh! Some modules are potted and slugged too!


----------



## red02

I was wondering what kind of runtime and output could I get with 3xNiMH with a direct drive MCE?


----------



## Midnight Oil

Psychbeat & Sfca,

Thanks for the encouraging advice.

Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in!

Lights Ohn!

Does anyone have distant beamshots of the XR-E R2 in a reflector vs one in an 8 degree optic?


----------



## Paul_in_Maryland

red02 said:


> I was wondering what kind of runtime and output could I get with 3xNiMH with a direct drive MCE?


I used to run a direct-drive warm MC-E (NailBender) from 3xNiMH (Eneloop). Its output was impressive, delivering throw surrounded by an ugly, but wide, spill. I think I got about 50 minutes of good use; since brightness tapers off slowly, it's hard to define how long it lasts. Nowadays I run a Malkoff M30WF from 3xNiZn AAs (4.8V total). It's noticeably brighter than the M30WF was on 3xNiMH. It's so bright that I no longer covet a Malkoff MC-E.


----------



## Noctis

sfca said:


> Yeah definitely it will get hot. I have a defensive use for it, so doesn't take much on-time to blind somebody hahaha!


I have ridiculously high standards regarding that.

The sun has a lux of around 130,000 when it's brightest(this is typically when you start burning ants with a magnifying glass). Yet I've personally stared at it as a child. I'm also sure we've been personally greeted by that infernal ball of fire at some point when we're driving. Could you describe that as "blinding"?

Considering most lights will give less than 5,000 measured lux at 1 meter, you'd have to be really close to even approach the intensity of sunlight.

Using an SST-90 Direct Drive at 3.5A, the beam feels like sunlight at 3-4 inches away from the head.

So you really have to go to extremes to get any kind of noticeable effect.

I'd settle for nothing less than 1,000 lumens if I were expecting to "blind" someone, and I'd have to be no more than 10 feet away.



> 1.5A may be a good seller for the SST-50 - but you should ask around first whether people will be happy with the output. Have a LEO poll on whether they (professional use) would have a use for it.


If you're going for 1.5A, I don't see why anyone would pick an SST-50 over an XPG for that. The XPG is more efficient and will generate less heat than the 50 at that current.



> A module like the Malkoffs (MC-E) would solve heating problem. Oh! Some modules are potted and slugged too!


It would be nothing short of fantastic if Malkoff would simply sell a "black" shell with the brass & your choice of reflector or optic, while making it "customizable" by allowing you to screw in a P60 sized pill.

I'll have to strangle myself for saying this, but a Nailbender SST-90 Direct Drive pill nested inside a Malkoff brass body module with a LOP reflector would be "Made of Win".


----------



## Midnight Oil

Got my Solarforce L2r yesterday.

I popped in my Nailbender drop-in, a buck/boost module *with exposed circuitry on the bottom*, and ended up shorting it out. Below are the things I did. Can someone tell me which, or if all of them, might have contributed to the short? 
I had taken the drop-in out of my CL1H V4 host without first taking out the battery and taking off the tailcap. But I only had an AA alkaline in it shimmed with two rolled up business cards, and I had done this several times before with no problems, though I have learned since that it is *always* a good idea to remove the batteries and tailcap first before taking out the drop-in.
I forgot to install the external spring the first time I popped the drop-in into the L2r, so the bottom of the drop-in, *with the exposed circuitry*, was in contact with the bottom of the head.
When I later proceeded to clean the L2r host, yes I know I should have cleaned it before doing anything else, I noticed the bottom of the head, where it contacted the bottom of the drop-in, had a thin layer of aluminum filings, probably left behind from fabrication. I've wiped it cleaned though.
The 2 AA alkalines I put into the L2r was a really really tight fit. The springs on the drop-in must have gotten squished like crazy. Perhaps the top of the battery came into contact with the exposed circuitry on the bottom of the drop-in, or there was too much force on the drop-in internal spring.
I'm trying to find out if the short was exclusively the result of a stupid person, and therefore conclude that *the L2r host itself had nothing to do with it* via faulty tailcap or something. I can live with the stupid person but hate to have to return the host.

Should I trim the drop-in spring or the tailcap spring. I'm not exaggerating. the fit was tight. The tailcap probably would have shot out a good yard under the spring tension.

Any additional advice regarding how to physically handle drop-ins, especially ones with exposed circuitry will be much appreciated.


----------



## kosPap

DAMN It happened to me too with the L2R and i was lazy to report it!

I had the same thing happen with a homemade dropin that used the Dx 15880 board...(exposed electronics too)

The reason you and I had this misfortune was that the ledge that the spring rests one is too wide...the module spring can compress lower that the module rim, so it does not stop the PCB for contacting the bare aluminum ledge!

DAMN!


----------



## Noctis

kosPap said:


> DAMN It happened to me too with the L2R and i was lazy to report it!
> 
> I had the same thing happen with a homemade dropin that used the Dx 15880 board...(exposed electronics too)
> 
> The reason you and I had this misfortune was that the ledge that the spring rests one is too wide...the module spring can compress lower that the module rim, so it does not stop the PCB for contacting the bare aluminum ledge!
> 
> DAMN!


Would having thermal epoxy over the exposed board prevent that? Or whatever Gene uses in his drop-ins.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

If the problem is as I visual it, I don't see where that would help.

SOUNDS like the area for the drop in is not deep enough. Or the ledge is too wide.

One or the other.

I don't have a light like that or a drop like that to check it out.


----------



## kosPap

Noctis said:


> Would having thermal epoxy over the exposed board prevent that? Or whatever Gene uses in his drop-ins.


 
sorry about that, but I already posted the question in anothn thread before reading this,,,,,In effect no...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3390505&postcount=473


----------



## Stereodude

*Re: How bright on one non-lithium AA cell?*



Paul_in_Maryland said:


> But I do own two Dereelight XP-G modules:
> 
> 2.8-4.2V, 1-stage, 1.2A to the LED
> 0.9-4.2V, 3-stage, 1.5A to the LED


Where did you get the 2nd one? My understanding is that the only Dereelight XP-G module that supports voltages lower than 2.8V (ie: has low voltage protection disabled) is the one for the Javelin and it is dialed back to 1.0A to the LED (from the 1.2A the others can deliver).


----------



## Paul_in_Maryland

*Re: How bright on one non-lithium AA cell?*



Stereodude said:


> Where did you get the 2nd one? My understanding is that the only Dereelight XP-G module that supports voltages lower than 2.8V (ie: has low voltage protection disabled) is the one for the Javelin and it is dialed back to 1.0A to the LED (from the 1.2A the others can deliver).


I ordered the 0.9-4.2V 3-stage module directly from Dereelight's Website. And you're right; I misstated the amperage.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Hi all,

If any part of the bottom of the pill, aside from the center spring, comes into contact with the battery or the body of the host, will that short out the drop-in?

Thanks.


----------



## old4570

Midnight Oil said:


> Hi all,
> 
> If any part of the bottom of the pill, aside from the center spring, comes into contact with the battery or the body of the host, will that short out the drop-in?
> 
> Thanks.



If neg comes into contact with neg , no short should result .
But if neg and positive should make contact on the board or pill then it will short . 

So some how + is coming into contact with - 

Could be one of the components on the edge of the board , could be the + spring some how coming into contact with the body


----------



## old4570

This is what I was thinking ..













If the + spring is some how making contact with the body , this wont help . 
But I think the pictures help explain my thinking .


----------



## Midnight Oil

Thanks, old4570.

That's what I've been thinking of as well. I'll try using some electrical tape.


----------



## Midnight Oil

I just received my Solarforce LC-1 R2 1-mode 0.8-4.2V drop-in. It works without the external spring in my L2R but not in my L2. 

Anyone with Solarforce drop-ins in these two hosts? Is this consistent with your observations.

Now the bummer is the output of the drop-in is less than 50 lumens running off of 2 fresh AA alkalines. I've tried the two cells in my Eagletac P100NW and they pump out more than 100 lumens on the high mode. Now is that consistent with anyone's observations?

Thanks.


----------



## old4570

Midnight Oil said:


> I just received my Solarforce LC-1 R2 1-mode 0.8-4.2V drop-in. It works without the external spring in my L2R but not in my L2.
> 
> Anyone with Solarforce drop-ins in these two hosts? Is this consistent with your observations.
> 
> Now the bummer is the output of the drop-in is less than 50 lumens running off of 2 fresh AA alkalines. I've tried the two cells in my Eagletac P100NW and they pump out more than 100 lumens on the high mode. Now is that consistent with anyone's observations?
> 
> Thanks.



Solarforce low voltage drop in , should be about 80Lumen with a single AA and more like 180 with 2xAA and 250ish [ there abouts ] on a 18650 

I currently have 4 of the low voltage drop ins , 3 x 3mode and one single mode .


----------



## Midnight Oil

Man, the flashlight gods are not kind to me. You guys are my only ally.

I've emailed Lighthound about it, asking them whether I can send my L2R with the drop-in back, so they can figure out whether the host or the drop-in is the culprit.

I'm thinking it's the host, because the drop-in was pretty darn bright when I popped it into my L2 with a 18650. In fact the beam was better than my NB R2 in a LOP reflector: no rings.

Perhaps there is some weird contact thing going between the drop-in and my L2R that's causing additional resistance.

Thanks again, old4570. BTW thanks for your recommendation of a CR123a extension + the L2 for 2AA compatibility. It is sweet. I tried it with my NB XPG R4 1.2-4V with buck/boost, and it seemed just as bright as when powered by (1) 18650.


----------



## Midnight Oil

I also received my nailbender XRE R2 in a LOP reflector yesterday. It is bright, well over 200 OTF lumens, but I notice that its hotspot is quite large. As a result, despite its raw lumen output, it seems to throw only as well as my Eagletac P100A2 NW on high, which pumps out only around 130 OTF lumens, but has a much tighter hotspot. 

I know the ET has a smooth reflector, but I'm not talking about how defined the hotspot is, just the diamter of it. In theory, a LOP reflector can be shaped to produce a hotspot as small as that of the ET's, though not as sharply defined around the edges, right? If my drop-in's hotspot were just as tight, at over 200 lumens, man then it could really throw!

I've been using my Eagletac as the baseline for comparison this way. I've asked around regarding which drop-ins can produce as tight a hot spot, but don't remember seeing any responses. Is what I'm looking for impossible to achieve, given the size constraint of the P60 module? Is a deeper reflector needed to achieve the correct shape to really tighten up the hotspot?

Thanks


----------



## red02

Anyone know of a XRE-R2 current controlled low voltage drop in? I'm open to custom jobs, but after looking for a few weeks but my only options are PWM derived.


----------



## red02

Midnight Oil said:


> Is what I'm looking for impossible to achieve, given the size constraint of the P60 module? Is a deeper reflector needed to achieve the correct shape to really tighten up the hotspot?



The Javelin is the top P60 AA dedicated throw IIRC with 10k lux with 3xAAs and a SMO reflector and an XRE. According to light-reviews the P100A2 nets 6.8k lux. So more throw is definitely possible. Anything beyond that I think is difficult.

btw, you can do the same trick on the DBS as you did on the L2 to get about 22k+ lux on 2xAAs.

EDIT: sorry for the double post, tried to edit...


----------



## kosPap

yep! did the same with the low-voltage pill abd 18650s,,,got 26000+ lux


----------



## Midnight Oil

Hey Red02,

Nailbender offers low voltage (1.2-4.2V) regulated boost only (3 modes) and regulated buck/boost (5 modes) for XPEs, XREs, and XPGs. I have a low voltage regulated buck/boost XPG R4 and XRE R2 from him. The R4 is of course neutral white, and the R2 tint is WD. I usually use them in my L2 and CL1H with (1) 18650, and I found out yesterday that 2AAs in a L2 with a CR123a extension tube work equally as well.

Only problems is NB's boost driver boards, for now, have circuits on both sides, and I'm sure by now you all have heard about my experience using them in my L2r.

About the Javelin...I don't plan on buying a Javelin, but maybe they have the Javelin drop-ins for sale separately? I have not seen those on Flashlightconnection.com.

Member csshih has also mentioned that the Dereelight drop-ins offer the most throw among all the P60 XPG drop-ins. Wonder how the Dereelight drop-ins are shaped differently.


----------



## red02

> I'm sure by now you all have heard about my experience using them in my L2r.


 I have not, in fact I am considering ordering 1 since they are supposed to be driven harder. What problems did you have?

The dereelight dropins are my first P60 lamp so I cannot comment on how they differ.

IIRC Jay from flashlightconnection still has 1 or 2 single stage XRE low voltage pills. Since he had only single stage drivers, I got my 3-stage driver directly from dereelight. After exchanging a few emails with their customer service they told me to order the regular pill, but specify "for javelin" in the paypal notes.

From what I understood, they still have some 3-stage pills for Javelin but you have to contact them and request it.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Oh ho ho, here is one of the threads in which I posted about the problem:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/246286&page=2

I actually also mentioned it in this thread. The essence is the exposed circuits on the bottom of my NB drop-ins were in direct contact with the body of my L2R and shorted out.

Old4570's response above, the one with the pictures showing a disc of insulating material shielding the circuit board, looks like a good solution to my problem.

I'm actually sending my L2R back to the folks at Lighthound on Monday to see if I have received a freak sample.


----------



## red02

Like you mentioned, it sounds like the two are just not compatible. The tape seems like a temporary fix, maybe nailbender could epoxy or locktite the area under the pill?

Chances are that the second L2r will be the same... given that experience with solarforce I would be willing to spend the extra 10 on the javelin host instead of getting another L2.

Have you tired the module in your CL1H? you can get the 18500 extender and still use 2xAAs.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Thanks for the suggestions. The NB drop-ins do work in my L2 and CL1H because the neck of their larger diameter bodies stay clear of the circuits. As for getting the Javelin or the CL1H extension, based on my experience with my CL1H, I'm not too thrilled about the O-rings and threads, but that's another story.


----------



## Black Rose

Midnight Oil said:


> Member csshih has also mentioned that the Dereelight drop-ins offer the most throw among all the P60 XPG drop-ins. Wonder how the Dereelight drop-ins are shaped differently.


They are probably using deeper refelctors to obtain more throw.

I have a couple of Dereelight XR-E reflectors that I bought, but have not done any throw comparisons with them against the generic XR-E drop-in reflectors I have here.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Black Rose said:


> They are probably using deeper refelctors to obtain more throw.
> 
> I have a couple of Dereelight XR-E reflectors that I bought, but have not done any throw comparisons with them against the generic XR-E drop-in reflectors I have here.


 
I saw the stock drop-in (maybe D26) in one of the Farkas that Flashlightsngear is selling, also through MP, and it looked at least two times longer than the typical D26. Perhaps that format can accomodate an extra deep reflector like you say, which is how some Fenix and Eagletac tactical lights are able to throw so well?


----------



## red02

Midnight Oil said:


> Thanks for the suggestions. The NB drop-ins do work in my L2 and CL1H because the neck of their larger diameter bodies stay clear of the circuits. As for getting the Javelin or the CL1H extension, based on my experience with my CL1H, I'm not too thrilled about the O-rings and threads, but that's another story.



You might want to try 1/2inch o rings around the batteries if your using AAs.


----------



## slikstuf

New to the board but after reading this thread on the forums, I just got the Bug Out drop in for my Surefire G2. Very happy with it so far! Thanks guys for the great info!


----------



## Midnight Oil

old4570 said:


> It was answered ...
> 
> Throw = around 100 Meters ..
> 
> It can be less and it can be more .. Depends on Emitter , Power , and all the other variables ...
> 
> Throw has been talked to death on CPF , and here in the P60 section as well .
> Your average P60 Q5 or better XR-E running @ 1A P60 should be good for 100 Meters ...


 
100 *METERS*? 

I guess I've gotten short-changed. :scowl:

Both my Solarforce XRE-R2 low-voltage high output and NB XRE-R2 250 OTF lumen drop-ins, running off of 1x18650, can barely throw 60 *FEET*! Their hotspots are that big and become diffused over such a short distance.

At 100 *FEET*, I can't make out a thing! Both drop-ins are in LOP reflectors, but that should not make THAT much of a difference, right?

And to think I purchased them for their throw. :thumbsdow

Just my rotten luck! :shakehead


----------



## recDNA

Is there any manufacturer whose R2 pill (I don't need the reflector) is driven harder (more amps) than others?


----------



## old4570

Midnight Oil said:


> 100 *METERS*?
> 
> I guess I've gotten short-changed. :scowl:
> 
> Both my Solarforce XRE-R2 low-voltage high output and NB XRE-R2 250 OTF lumen drop-ins, running off of 1x18650, can barely throw 60 *FEET*! Their hotspots are that big and become diffused over such a short distance.
> 
> At 100 *FEET*, I can't make out a thing! Both drop-ins are in LOP reflectors, but that should not make THAT much of a difference, right?
> 
> And to think I purchased them for their throw. :thumbsdow
> 
> Just my rotten luck! :shakehead



How is the environment ? , is there a lot of light pollution ? 
Do you have nice objects to shine the light on [ to light up ] 
If you have a nice dark place to play [ dark forest ] , and some one to help , just find a nice place that in daylight offers 200+ Meters of viewing , and at night time get a helper to walk out , and see at what point you can no longer make out your friend ..

To me throw = how far I can see the hot spot , so if I shine the light at a very large tree say 150 meters away , and the hotspot is visible , to me thats 150 meters throw , it may not be super effective , and I call it when the hotspot is diffused and no longer defined . 

Everyone will have there own idea , but 100 Feet :thinking:
Thats rather poor for a 18650 powered light . 
Orange Peel reflector wont make that much difference in a P60 .
Unless you have a lot of light pollution [ thats the only thing that comes to mind ]


----------



## Midnight Oil

old4570 said:


> How is the environment ? , is there a lot of light pollution?...but 100 Feet :thinking:
> Thats rather poor for a 18650 powered light .
> Orange Peel reflector wont make that much difference in a P60 .
> Unless you have a lot of light pollution [ thats the only thing that comes to mind ]


 

Guilty!

I first tested out my lights in my office building by shining it into a dark conference room about 60 feet away. It was after hours so, heh heh, _most_, and I do mean most,of the fluorescent lights were off. Even so, the hotspot was about as intense as a night light.

When I tested my lights at home, I shone them from my bedroom window, down to the backyard fence about 40 feet away. They were bright, no doubt, but lit up a rather large radius, not as wide as my XPG of course, but large enough that their hotspots widen and diffuse to nothingness rather quickly. Out to about 100 feet, forget about it, though I do admit there is light pollution from sparse street lighting.

I live in the city, you see, so I may have to take your advice and venture off into the wilderness one of these days, or maybe... into a dark alley. Where... is that sharp Solarforce strike bezel?

BTW

My L2r came back from Lighthound with a replacement low-voltage dropin, and you, sir, are ABSOLUTELY right! In fact, it is so bright, I can't tell the difference between it and my R2 from Nailbender running off of 1x18650. And on just 2 AA alkalines! WOW!

The Solarforce R2 is whiter. Next to it, the NB R2 appears green. The SF R2 also has a cleaner and slightly TIGHTER beam.

Boy, if it weren't for the choice of emitter, tint, and drivers...

The downside is, it cost me $5.75 to send the L2r back to Lighthound, after a series of events led me to think there was something wrong with the host itself. I had thought the low output of my first SF R2 was yet another manifestation of the mutant host, but it turned out the drop-in was a dud. I could have just requested an exchange for the drop-in. Needless to say, I was not reimbursed for shipping and oh, the bezel came back chipped.

You owe me $5.75 and a flake of Type 2 anodization, Solarforce!

Still, hats off to Lighthound for their customer service.


----------



## red02

100ft is about 33m, can you confirm that distance using google maps?


----------



## Midnight Oil

red02 said:


> 100ft is about 33m, can you confirm that distance using google maps?


 
Confirmo, red.

I'm thinking it's pollution from those damn street lights!

Who needs them! Why can't everyone just walk around carrying flashlights?


----------



## Black Rose

Midnight Oil said:


> I'm thinking it's pollution from those damn street lights!


Yep, they cause a lot of grief for flashlight testing.

My wife and I have to drive about 25 minutes away in order to test out the drop-ins in our lights.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Black Rose said:


> Yep, they cause a lot of grief for flashlight testing.
> 
> My wife and I have to drive about 25 minutes away in order to test out the drop-ins in our lights.


 

Your wife is a flashaholic too? Lucky guy.

I wonder...any member of the fair sex here on CPF? Time to go on the prowl...I mean...ah hem!

I found out tonight that not all LOP reflectors are created equal. The one on my NB drop-in yields quite a dirty beam: a splat of a corona, some rings, and some diffused splotches. The one on my Solarforce yields a near perfect beam.

One way to think about it is that I got really lucky with the Solarforce drop-in. Another way to think about it: wouldn't it be nice if Dave could test out his reflectors before putting them on his drop-ins. In my case, IMHO, the poor reflector is putting his otherwise fine work in a bad light. Then again, maybe that's too much to ask for?


----------



## Black Rose

Midnight Oil said:


> Your wife is a flashaholic too? Lucky guy.


She has a better appreciation for them now. 
At first it was "What's with you and flashlights anyway?".

Then I bought some Solarforce L2 hosts.
She recently took the gunmetal grey L2, along with a drop-in I made and put it in her purse.

I recently built an XP-G based light using the Aurora V6 DIY body from DX.
She liked that one so much she asked me to build here one.

She now has a 3-mode Aurora V6 with an XP-G R5 on her nightstand.



> I found out tonight that not all LOP reflectors are created equal. The one on my NB drop-in yields quite a dirty beam: a splat of a corona, some rings, and some diffused splotches. The one on my Solarforce yields a near perfect beam.


What LED is in them?

I've found no matter what reflector, whether the OP ones included with the DX drop-ins or ones from Dereelight, if it's a Cree XR-E it's going to have rings. 

I've used XR-E reflectors with an XP-G and it gives a nice diffused hotspot.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Black Rose said:


> What LED is in them?


 
Both the Solarforce and NB are XRE-R2s. There is a slight dark ring around the hot spot with both reflectors, but is not noticeable during practical use. The Solarforce reflector gives a tighter hotspot and a near perfect spill beam, kinda like the Quarks.

While I have your attention, do you mind giving me your two cents on one of my earlier posts in this thread about whether there is a p60 reflector available for either a XRE-R2 or XPE-R2 that can focus a beam enough to out-throw the old Eagletac P20A2 with the XRE-R2 or maybe just the P100A2 XPE-Q5, which is what I have and have been using as a baseline for my throw comparisons. Would it be some Dereelight reflectors for the R2s, like that for the Javelin? I've gotten several responses, but I don't remember any conclusive ones regarding whether it's even possible to make a p60 reflector to yield that much throw, given a cap on the lumens available from the R2s of course. Thanks


----------



## Black Rose

Midnight Oil said:


> While I have your attention, do you mind giving me your two cents on one of my earlier posts in this thread about whether there is a p60 reflector available for either a XRE-R2 or XPE-R2 that can focus a beam enough to out-throw the old Eagletac P20A2 with the XRE-R2 or maybe just the P100A2 XPE-Q5, which is what I have and have been using as a baseline for my throw comparisons. Would it be some Dereelight reflectors for the R2s, like that for the Javelin?


To a certain degree, P60 drop-ins are limited in their throw simply due to the specs they have to adhere to.

I bought a couple of the P60 (CL1H OP-XRE) reflectors directly from Dereelight and they do focus the hotspot better than generic P60 OP reflectors.

I have no idea if it would it be tight enough to out-throw the Eagletacs.

If you want throw and don't care what the beam looks like on a white wall, try an XR-E with a smooth reflector.


----------



## red02

Black Rose said:


> To a certain degree, P60 drop-ins are limited in their throw simply due to the specs they have to adhere to.
> 
> I bought a couple of the P60 (CL1H OP-XRE) reflectors directly from Dereelight and they do focus the hotspot better than generic P60 OP reflectors.
> 
> I have no idea if it would it be tight enough to out-throw the Eagletacs.
> 
> If you want throw and don't care what the beam looks like on a white wall, try an XR-E with a smooth reflector.



Its a good question, most lux number that are posted are misleading 1m lux numbers instead of the 5m number that is supposed to have been taken after the beam has converged.

This is a great comparison that finalized my decision on the DBS. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2995235&postcount=1


----------



## kosPap

Midnight Oil said:


> Both the Solarforce and NB are XRE-R2s. There is a slight dark ring around the hot spot with both reflectors, but is not noticeable during practical use. The Solarforce reflector gives a tighter hotspot and a near perfect spill beam, kinda like the Quarks.


 

seems to me you forget that you can tinker a bit with focus by unscrewing the reflector....taht kills the dark ring, softens AND WIDENS the beam... see the 2 pics of the Derrelight Op reflector at different focus here

http://img714.imageshack.us/i/combocpfweb.jpg/


----------



## Midnight Oil

kosPap said:


> seems to me you forget that you can tinker a bit with focus by unscrewing the reflector....taht kills the dark ring, softens AND WIDENS the beam... see the 2 pics of the Derrelight Op reflector at different focus here
> 
> http://img714.imageshack.us/i/combocpfweb.jpg/



Thanks for the link to that series of pictures.:thumbsup:

Surprising to me the difference in lux between the OP and smooth reflector: some 3000+ lux, unless that's not really noticeable in actual use.

And look! The smooth reflector actually focuses a tighter hot spot than the TIR 8 degree optic.

Red02 brings up a good point, something which I was uncertain about before but sounds like it may be true. I only recently realized that the hotspot beam converges some distance away from the head before diverging at a certain angle. (Hmm, is this still true for the lights with the larger reflectors like the DBS? I feel like reviewing my analytic geometry, the section about conics, specifically the parabola, to understand how light actually bounces off the reflector.) Ayways, as a result, when collecting lux readings for multiple lights, it makes sense to locate the lux meter at a fixed distance beyond the respective points of convergence for each light?

The point I'm getting at is that I used to look at just the lux readings people have gathered for multiple lights at a fixed distance from the lux meter as the index for relative throw. Now, it sounds like this method is misleading. Feferring back to the lux readings of the optic and smooth reflector above, the number for the smooth reflector could have been taken where the beam was actually converging. If after that point, the smooth reflector spreads the beam out more than 8 degrees, then the optic will actually yield more throw. Does this sound right, you guys?

BTW, Blackrose, I have 2 Dereelight XRE smooth reflectors on order, direct from HK. It does say it's for the CL1H, which I hope does not mean it won't fit into other P60 hosts but means it's P60 sized, to differentiate it from the reflectors for the DBS and the C2H.


----------



## red02

Midnight Oil said:


> Thanks for the link to that series of pictures.:thumbsup:
> 
> Surprising to me the difference in lux between the OP and smooth reflector: some 3000+ lux, unless that's not really noticeable in actual use.


lux=lm/m^2; lux^-2=m. Will give you theoretical throw in m. I haven't though about this critically myself, its just something I've read here.



> And look! The smooth reflector actually focuses a tighter hot spot than the TIR 8 degree optic.


 My AAA lenser has a tighter spot than my DBS at a few cm, doesn't say much about throw. Convergence is very important. Its a good rule of thumb, but it's not reliable since it's not true for all cases and there are other factors to consider. The link I provided contains great beamshots of multiple P60 lights along with others and there I think you can judge hotspot brightness and diameter.



> is this still true for the lights with the larger reflectors like the DBS? I feel like reviewing my analytic geometry, the section about conics, specifically the parabola, to understand how light actually bounces off the reflector.) Ayways, as a result, when collecting lux readings for multiple lights, it makes sense to locate the lux meter at a fixed distance beyond the respective points of convergence for each light?


Yes, this is true for all dedicated thrower lights. Ideally you need 3 readings to have some understanding of convergence. 2 reading are the bare minimum. How light is reflected and how it behaves is a difficult topic that goes beyond geometry.



> Optic will actually yield more throw. Does this sound right, you guys?


Maybe, all reflectors are different. An optic will not compete with larger throwers; A10, DEFT, Aspherics(though I would argue that these are optics). Assuming your comparing P60 type reflectors, then I don't really know but would say "maybe".


----------



## kosPap

Midnight Oil said:


> BTW, Blackrose, I have 2 Dereelight XRE smooth reflectors on order, direct from HK. It does say it's for the CL1H, which I hope does not mean it won't fit into other P60 hosts but means it's P60 sized, to differentiate it from the reflectors for the DBS and the C2H.


 

I have one, it will fit any chinese run-of the mil P60 pill...as a matter of fact their SMO reflectors are not different from the rest....If only tehy were deeper like then OP ones...


----------



## Midnight Oil

Great. They will fit then. Thanks, kosPap

Red02, thanks for the link. 

The Dereelight R2 looks really focused in the photos, comparable to that of the ET P20A2, ET T20C2, and the TK11. Just what I'm hoping for. Just hoping because I hope that's how my beam will look with the new smooth reflectors.


----------



## red02

Be careful of what you expect, the top left corner pic is over exposed and will never look like that in real life. From what I understand 1s exp is pretty good. But you can tell the hottest spots on the underexposed pictures.

Yeah csshih did a really good job on the beamshots, I prefer these types of shots since they look closest to what the lights will be used for in real life. It makes for a much better metric with which to make a decision.


----------



## Midnight Oil

red02 said:


> Be careful of what you expect, the top left corner pic is over exposed and will never look like that in real life. From what I understand 1s exp is pretty good. But you can tell the hottest spots on the underexposed pictures.
> 
> Yeah csshih did a really good job on the beamshots, I prefer these types of shots since they look closest to what the lights will be used for in real life. It makes for a much better metric with which to make a decision.


 
Consider me warned.

I guess I'll just have to keep my eyes opened longer :huh:, to let in more light!


----------



## Midnight Oil

I was experimenting with how far to screw the XRE-R2 pills into my two LOP reflectors to produce the most focused hotspot. It appears to be somewhere between fully tightened and 3/4 of a full rotation of the LED. 

It was difficult because I had to repeatedly take out the drop-in, 
screw the pill in or unscrew it a bit, then, with the head off, push the drop-in against the battery with the clicky engaged until it lighted. As I don't have a lux meter, I had to try to remember what the hotspot looked like. Very primitive.

I imagine the more clever way to do this is to rig up an external circuit to hook up the battery to the drop-in. Then I can just twist the pill continuously while the drop-in is lit, at the risk of shock or short perhaps?


----------



## kosPap

veering abit of subject but i use a 4AA battery case/carrier....I soldered a new wire with an aligator clip on the negative contact, and made another for the positive....it has one aligator clip too but a small plate on the other end....so i can choose battery number by jamming the plate between nipple and case/carrier

Not only that, I can rig a drop-in to a DMM and my lightbox too at teh same time


----------



## red02

Will an XPG driven by a single AA/Eneloop cook inside a G2Z host on high?


----------



## shao.fu.tzer

red02 said:


> Will an XPG driven by a single AA/Eneloop cook inside a G2Z host on high?



Depends on how hard the LED is being driven. I would say... No...


----------



## red02

shao.fu.tzer said:


> Depends on how hard the LED is being driven. I would say... No...



Its a deree XPG dropin, so about 1 amp? will it even get 1 amp from the battery?


----------



## AlphaZen

Will the Thrunite R5 that pulls 1.5 amps give the most OTF lumens in a P60 drop-in for less than $50?


----------



## fatmother123

AlphaZen said:


> Will the Thrunite R5 that pulls 1.5 amps give the most OTF lumens in a P60 drop-in for less than $50?


For way cheaper, get a generic cool white XP-G drop-in and swap in a 4xAMC7135 driver for 1.4A for under $25, if you are willing to do a little bit of soldering.

http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-133/**NEW**-3-dsh-Mode-Regulated-Circuit/Detail

Extra $25 is never bad


----------



## AlphaZen

fatmother123 said:


> For way cheaper, get a generic cool white XP-G drop-in and swap in a 4xAMC7135 driver for 1.4A for under $25, if you are willing to do a little bit of soldering.
> 
> http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-133/**NEW**-3-dsh-Mode-Regulated-Circuit/Detail
> 
> Extra $25 is never bad


That sounds like a fun project - thanks. Do you have a link to a generic r5 drop-in?


----------



## Superorb

I got the Thrunite 1.5A 3-mode dropin for $35.xx shipped. The low mode isn't nearly as low as I'd like it, but it's MUCH lower than the Solarforce 3-mode 0.9-4.2v dropin. I'd love to try a neutral white XP-G with the SB driver. Anyone know how many Lumens the output ends up being on an XP-G?


----------



## fatmother123

AlphaZen said:


> That sounds like a fun project - thanks. Do you have a link to a generic r5 drop-in?


Try DX or ebay. Another option is to buy an empty pill/reflector from DX/KD and an XP-G on a star.


----------



## recDNA

Superorb said:


> I got the Thrunite 1.5A 3-mode dropin for $35.xx shipped. The low mode isn't nearly as low as I'd like it, but it's MUCH lower than the Solarforce 3-mode 0.9-4.2v dropin. I'd love to try a neutral white XP-G with the SB driver. Anyone know how many Lumens the output ends up being on an XP-G?


 

For what it's worth although it produces lower lumen output the Dereelight R5 looks brighter and whiter to me than the Thrunite. In fact I returned my Thrunight 1.5 amp R5 D26 for a Dereelight drop in even though I aready had 2 Dereelight P60's. I have a single mode and the 3 mode low voltage models and a 3 mode high voltage model. I think the Dereelight reflector makes the difference but I didn't like the yellow color of the Thrunite either.


----------



## red02

If your budget is under 50, why not a nailbender linger special? 500 OTF lumens for about 40-something.


----------



## AlphaZen

red02 said:


> If your budget is under 50, why not a nailbender linger special? 500 OTF lumens for about 40-something.


That sounds awesome. I'll check his sales thread out - thanks.

@recDNA - Thanks for the advice.


----------



## Superorb

recDNA said:


> For what it's worth although it produces lower lumen output the Dereelight R5 looks brighter and whiter to me than the Thrunite. In fact I returned my Thrunight 1.5 amp R5 D26 for a Dereelight drop in even though I aready had 2 Dereelight P60's. I have a single mode and the 3 mode low voltage models and a 3 mode high voltage model. I think the Dereelight reflector makes the difference but I didn't like the yellow color of the Thrunite either.


I've read that the Thrunite has a lower low than the Dereelight so that's why I went with the Thrunite. Mine doesn't have a hint of yellow, just totally white.


----------



## recDNA

That's great! Even creamy white looks yellow to me. I'm one of those odd ducks who LIKES really cool white. If yours is cool white then I was just unlucky.


----------



## red02

I think thats the best comparison I've ever heard. I think I'll use that "xerox paper" thing next time I'm talking with a dealer about tint, thanks rec.


----------



## recDNA

red02 said:


> I think thats the best comparison I've ever heard. I think I'll use that "xerox paper" thing next time I'm talking with a dealer about tint, thanks rec.


You're welcome. I also suggest using Flashlightconnection.com for future Dereelight purchases. Jay is the best! ANY problem is addressed no questions asked. In return I try to make ALL my purchases through Jay even if they are a couple of bucks more.(and they're usually not). I KNOW if I have a problem it will be addressed immediately with no hassles.


----------



## Superorb

recDNA said:


> You're welcome. I also suggest using Flashlightconnection.com for future Dereelight purchases. Jay is the best! ANY problem is addressed no questions asked. In return I try to make ALL my purchases through Jay even if they are a couple of bucks more.(and they're usually not). I KNOW if I have a problem it will be addressed immediately with no hassles.


I bought my Thrunite dropin from him and they shipped same day super quick. Love those guys, just wish they carried Solarforce.


----------



## recDNA

Superorb said:


> I bought my Thrunite dropin from him and they shipped same day super quick. Love those guys, just wish they carried Solarforce.


 
Try SB or Lighthound. Both are good. Don't use Google Checkout.


----------



## red02

Whats wrong with Google Checkout?


----------



## Midnight Oil

I can't remember whether it was old4570 or someone else who mentioned that all his XRE-R2 drop-ins produce very different lux readings and getting a good one that can produce a tighter hotspot for throw is a matter of luck.

I understand how that can be, at least one of the reaons. I was comparing the emitters of my two XRE R2 drop-ins and noticed that the dome on one is much more pointed, like the tip of a missile, than the other. The image of the die through the more pointed dome is noticeably smaller and the hotspot produced is more focused.

Man, this flashlight thing is kinda like gambling, unless you can hand-pick components or have a builder who is willing to do it for you.


----------



## recDNA

red02 said:


> Whats wrong with Google Checkout?


For some reason the google checkout took 3 days to process and the light I wanted sold out. I was so disgusted I cancelled my order and missed out on a bargain.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Some beamshots:

Solarforce LC-1 XRE-R2 0.8-4.2V, LOP, in Solarforce L2r, with 2xDuracell alkalines






NB XRE-R2 1.2-4.2V Buck/Boost 5 Level Regulated, LOP, in Solarforce L2, with 1xAW18650 2600mAh





NB XPG-R4 1.2-4.2V Buck/Boost 5 Level Regulated, LOP, in Dereelight CL1H V4, with 1xAW18650 2600mAh





L to R: SF LC-1 XRE-R2, NB XRE-R2, NB XPG-R4


----------



## recDNA

Nice pics.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Thanks.

I wished I had a more sophisticated digital camera though. I took those pics with my Nikon Coolpix S1, which is what, 10 year old technology?

I have absolutely no control over the f-stop and exposure time values.

In the first photo, you can see that the SF R2's beam "pinches" before it spreads out again. This is not the case with the NB R2. I don't know if it is due to the reflector or the difference in the contour of the domes I mentioned in my previous post above.

Thoughts anyone?


----------



## Superorb

I just measured my 1.5A Thrunite 1x18650 P60 dropin and levels were as follows:

High: 1.2A
Medium: 300mA
Low: 1XmA

My DMM only goes down to 0.00A so the resolution isn't great. Cell is at 4.10v when testing. I was hoping for a higher high and lower low. Is it possible that I received one of the older, non-1.5A dropins from Thrunite?


----------



## ^Gurthang

Oil,

Very nice pics even if not "absolutely calibrated color temperature correct". 

Love the NB drop-in beam profile [must resist impulse to order one!]


----------



## Midnight Oil

^Gurthang said:


> Oil,
> 
> Very nice pics even if not "absolutely calibrated color temperature correct".
> 
> Love the NB drop-in beam profile [must resist impulse to order one!]


 
For WB on my camera, I picked something called, "Speed," with a lightning bolt symbol, identical to that for the flash. That seemed to show the tints closest to how they appear to my eyes. The tints show up correctly on my home laptop screen, but look very green on my work desktop LCD. I guess it's a monitor thing, maybe?

To my eyes, when all three are side by side, the SF R2 is pure white, the NB R2 is slightly green, and I think the NB XPG R4 neutral is what it's supposed to be.


----------



## Midnight Oil

I received two Dereelight P60 smooth reflectors today and tried them on the SF LC-1 R2 and the NB R2.

It tighened up the LC-1 hotspot nicely---it's now 2/3 the size of the LOP hotspot, though still not as defined as that of my ET P100A2, whose hotspot actually has a hard visible edge to it.

The SMO did reverse magic with the NB R2, completely destroying the hotspot. Turns out the LED on the NB module is recessed more into the pill, so even when it's fully screwed into the reflector, the LED doesn't protrude deep enough into the reflector for it to properly focus the beam.

*[Edit]* SMO works with NB R2 now. I got one more turn out of the pill. The problem now is there is no thread left to attach the external spring, so I can't get it to work in my L2. It sits in my CL1H V4 instead, which doesn't require an external spring. Only the tapered part of the pill is making contact with the body, and because the body doesn't really cradle the pill flush, this contact is sometimes lost, and the light doesn't turn on. I hesitate to shim it, lest the shim comes into contact with the exposed circuits and we all know what happens then. *[Edit]*

The Dereelight SMO appears to be more shallow than the LOPs that came with my R2s. I wonder, had it been fabricated as deep as possible, perhaps it would have yielded even more throw?


----------



## kosPap

Hello all!

I am a bit perplexed by two Low-volatge dropins I have & their what they emasure:
(bare modules tested, all abtts new/charged)

*Solarforce 5-mode XR-E R2 (replaced LED)*
Alkalines: 305 Lux – 2.05 A draw
Ni-Mh: 385 Lux - 0.80 A draw

(I have 3 more, the measurements match and I have dissasembled this particlular one and it outputs 0.60A to the LED)

*Dereelight Javelin Single Mode XP-G*
Alkalines: 200 Lux – 1.65 Adraw
Ni-Mh: 483Lux - 2.17Adraw (in my lightbox 480-500 is about 200 Lumens OTF)

Also I have an issue with the XPG in that particluar drop-in…It is yellowish. Not white towards yellow, but yellowish .


----------



## red02

I'm going to be doing this mod:https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1205794&postcount=21. The driver is a dereelight boost that uses PWM to dim the LED, although I doubt this will interfere with the mod you can never have too much information. Please let me know if this is a good idea, or if I'll end up with a ?

I've spoken to Nailbender and he told me that this may not be a good idea, but he wasn't sure.


----------



## kosPap

I have tried it with PWM buck drivers dereelight included...works Ok...

the problem starts with constant currrent drivers...like the nAMC7135 chipped ones....then it may work but the low output makes the LED tint shift....


----------



## red02

kosPap said:


> I have tried it with PWM buck drivers dereelight included...works Ok...
> 
> the problem starts with constant currrent drivers...like the nAMC7135 chipped ones....then it may work but the low output makes the LED tint shift....



Thanks, thats great to hear. The gains in efficiency more than makes up for the tint shift. I'd rather see something and not be able to tell what color it is than not see it at all.

Do you think the boost will think the batteries are sagging and try to pull more current with the resistor in series?


----------



## Superorb

kosPap said:


> *Solarforce 5-mode XR-E R2 (replaced LED)*
> Alkalines: 305 Lux – 2.05 A draw
> Ni-Mh: 385 Lux - 0.80 A draw



Are you sure those amps aren't reversed?


----------



## kosPap

No they are not...Ihad similar results with the other two drp-ins and measured the said one twice in 2 different instances.....

though One could argue thatthe driver is messing with my DMM, measuremtns taken with 18650s are normal


----------



## red02

I just tried to mod my DBS switch and the results were somewhat weird. A 47ohm resistor worked perfectly in giving me a second level. But that level was much much lower than I though it would be, lower than the 0.2lm level on the Quark.

I had a XRE 0.9-4.2v Javelin driver feed by 2xEneloops inside the DBS when I tested this mod. The current draw on high is supposed to be 1 amp.

Am I seeing this ultra-low level because its a boost driver?


----------



## kosPap

hmm I do not think so...

as far as i can guess you are bypasing the boost stage....

The 7ohm value is too big for the 2xAAs...I use this for 2xCR123

BTW ohe should try it with a 3SD module....6 wonderful levels


----------



## red02

kosPap said:


> hmm I do not think so...
> 
> as far as i can guess you are bypasing the boost stage....
> 
> The 7ohm value is too big for the 2xAAs...I use this for 2xCR123
> 
> BTW ohe should try it with a 3SD module....6 wonderful levels


I have the 3SD module and that was my hope, but obviously I did something wrong.

I calculated the resistance based on the battery voltage (2.4; 2xNiMH) and the descriptions in the 4sevens lights page on how much their driver draws to get say 20lm. so its R=V/I so 2.4v/.05A gets 48ohms. 

I am missing a step? 

What resistance should I get to have about 20lm?


----------



## kosPap

I cannot really aswer that....

your best bet is to buy a variable resitor witha range of 0-60 Ohms..and try it your self...


----------



## red02

kosPap said:


> I cannot really aswer that....
> 
> your best bet is to buy a variable resitor witha range of 0-60 Ohms..and try it your self...



Good point, but all the variable resistors I've seen don't have a display on how much resistance the resistor is applying. Besides it was 47, 33 and 10ohms thats available to me

EDIT: Forgot to ask, does it make any difference that they are 1/2W resistors?


----------



## kosPap

yes if tehy are big enough to not fit....actually you may bet by with a 1/4 W easily....in my tests with CR/RCR current draw I would say taht a 0.05A is expected....

so 0.05*0.05*43= ?

I will have to *spank* you on the resistor value reading. This is what DMMs are for.set, find and read....

and if you dont have a DMM yet there is more 8spanking*

Sorry for the merry tone but I friend scored an one move MAT on online chess in the PC besides me and we are in abit of a fuss


----------



## red02

Promises promises...


----------



## unclevit

I bought G8 bulb from ebay for US$20, and put it in one of my G2 nitrolons. Very powerful output. More distance, throw, and brightness than my newest Olight M20 R4. This G2+G8 bulb was thrown out of my team's vehicle once when hit by a roadbomb. Still works fine these days. Gave it to my EOD officer. But there may be better LED bulb drop in for this G2


----------



## Paul_in_Maryland

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3): NailBender low-voltage single-stage driver!*



Midnight Oil said:


> Nailbender offers low voltage (1.2-4.2V) regulated boost only (3 modes) and regulated buck/boost (5 modes) for XPEs, XREs, and XPGs. I have a low voltage regulated buck/boost XPG R4 and XRE R2 from him.



Good news: On July 23, NailBender began offering his *low-voltage (1.2-4.2V)* regulated boost driver in a *single-stage* version. Essentially, it's the 5-mode driver minus the IC; presumably, it uses the driver's highest drive level (Level 5). His sales page doesn't yet mention this option; I learned of it when he offered me this option by private message that day. Evidently, he informed another buyer, for two of us bought a module with the single-mode low-voltage driver on the same day.


----------



## Paul_in_Maryland

*Re: low-voltage boost drivers: Dereelight vs. NailBender*



Stereodude said:


> Where did you get the 2nd one? My understanding is that the only Dereelight XP-G module that supports voltages lower than 2.8V (ie: has low voltage protection disabled) is the one for the Javelin and it is dialed back to 1.0A to the LED (from the 1.2A the others can deliver).


That would explain why the output leaves much to be desired. I wish Dereelight's site had mentioned this. I've just ordered a single-mode neutral-white XR-E from NailBender to replace my Dereelight XP-G R5 (0.9-4.2V), which I use in my 1AA FiveMega body. Even when driven on high, when used with only 1 AA the module is depressingly bluish.

But rereading NB's description, I found (after ordering) that his 1.2-4.2V driver, like Dereelight's 0.9-4.2V driver, drives the module at a modest 1.0V. I may have to use both modules in 2AA or 3AA bodies. 

On top of all this, Malkoff's long-awaited M31 has just been launched. Reportedly, it would be regulated for 1 or 2AAs. Well, it's strictly for 2 cells: It's regulated from 1.8V to 3.3V. Below 1.8V, it's direct-drive; above 3.3V, I think it's not safe to use.

I'm getting the feeling that waiting for a powerful D26 module for a 1AA is a lost cause.


----------



## red02

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3): NailBender low-voltage single-stage driver!*



Paul_in_Maryland said:


> Good news: On July 23, NailBender began offering his *low-voltage (1.2-4.2V)* regulated boost driver in a *single-stage* version. Essentially, it's the 5-mode driver minus the IC; presumably, it uses the driver's highest drive level (Level 5). His sales page doesn't yet mention this option; I learned of it when he offered me this option by private message that day. Evidently, he informed another buyer, for two of us bought a module with the single-mode low-voltage driver on the same day.



Thanks for the info, but now you've made my decision even tougher...


----------



## AlphaZen

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3): NailBender low-voltage single-stage driver!*

I am thinking about combining a Javelin head with my Dereelight C2H, to utilize P60 drop-ins. Since I will only be able to run 1 Li-Ion, what are some good options for drop-ins?
Secondly, if a drop-in's lower voltage is 3.7V, will a single Li-Ion cell be able to work with it? Maybe a single IMR?
Thanks for the help.


----------



## red02

You don't want IMRs since they are designed for very high amp draw. Usually you will get better results with normal Li-Ions when below 5A draw. Just look around; any 2.something to 4.2v regulated dropin will work. 

-Deree XPG/XRE
-Nailbender makes these dropin with too many LEDs to list. 
-Solarforce dropins

If 3.7 is the lower voltage than the driver might not have a boost circuit and is not appropriate for a single Li-Ion.


----------



## AlphaZen

red02 said:


> You don't want IMRs since they are designed for very high amp draw. Usually you will get better results with normal Li-Ions when below 5A draw.


The C2H uses either a 123 or 14500, so I thought with that low of a capacity it would be best to use IMR, and that the "below 5A" would be more applicable to 18650 cells. :shrug: I'm still trying to figure out when the best time to use IMR over normal Li-Ions is.



red02 said:


> Just look around; any 2.something to 4.2v regulated dropin will work.
> 
> -Deree XPG/XRE
> -Nailbender makes these dropin with too many LEDs to list.
> -Solarforce dropins
> 
> If 3.7 is the lower voltage than the driver might not have a boost circuit and is not appropriate for a single Li-Ion.


:thanks: I appreciate your help. I have been looking at those and so far the Deree that comes with the Javelin head is tough to beat.


----------



## red02

AlphaZen said:


> The C2H uses either a 123 or 14500, so I thought with that low of a capacity it would be best to use IMR, and that the "below 5A" would be more applicable to 18650 cells. :shrug: I'm still trying to figure out when the best time to use IMR over normal Li-Ions is..........



Even NiMH can handle the draw of the C2H boost circuit. CR123s can handle about 2A safely (the C2H boost circuit wont eat that much current anyway) and 14500s will work even better in terms of discharge characteristics. There are great charts and explanations over at the battery section.


----------



## AlphaZen

red02 said:


> Even NiMH can handle the draw of the C2H boost circuit. CR123s can handle about 2A safely (the C2H boost circuit wont eat that much current anyway) and 14500s will work even better in terms of discharge characteristics. There are great charts and explanations over at the battery section.


Thanks again. The boost circuit of the C2H wouldn't be applicable once I put a Javelin head on it with a seperate P60 dropin, correct?:thinking:


----------



## simplec6

What's the best choice for my needs:

Goal: I want the most OTF lumens for $200 or less that is well-made and durable. 

The host will be a bored HA III C2 with A19 extender bored for two AW 18650's from overready with a McClicky hardpress. 

Which drop-in should I go for?


----------



## red02

I am partial to Nailbender's Linger special (500OTF for ~ 50). He also makes SST90s for about 80.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Wow, deep pockets.

Try nailbender's sales thread. I believe he's got the goods you're looking for, and probably under 200 bucks.


----------



## simplec6

Just want to get the best there is on the market currently.

So for $200 or less, there is no P60 drop-in running on two 18650's that can do over 1000 OTF lumens?


Are there any options currently available that are similar to this offering from overready that are in stock?

"*Triple Cree XP-G LED Regulated 1100 lumen P60 Drop In* 

Fully regulated output between 4.8 and 9.5 volts
Below 4.8v it drops out of regulation and continues running until about 3v
93% efficient driver with 2 lithium ion cells
Integrated thermal overheating protection at 120C (248F)


This triple cree looks like a great drop in for two 18650's, any others that fit this bill?


----------



## Ziemas

Midnight Oil said:


> Wow, deep pockets.
> 
> Try nailbender's sales thread. I believe he's got the goods you're looking for, and probably under 200 bucks.


+1 

Nailbender would be the man to contact. His drop-ins are top notch, and his customer service is simply excellent.


----------



## mr.snakeman

Ziemas said:


> +1
> 
> Nailbender would be the man to contact. His drop-ins are top notch, and his customer service is simply excellent.


I agree as well, he took the time to help me choose a good drop-in for my Ti Fireworm F1 and even tried out several so that I could get the tint that I wanted. Now my F1 sports a nailbender SST 50 P6 drop-in (perfect fit btw) and couldn´t be happier.:twothumbs


----------



## Lischke

I'm on a tight budget right now, but really need a cree to my lamp. Which one do you guys consider the best?

I want a good wide beam, lots of light and acceptable life span.

I know it's hard to find a good lamp for a low price, but one of them must stand out a little against the others, right?


----------



## Black Rose

Lumens factory is currently selling their Cree XR-E R2 lamps for $18.00 plus shipping ($1.85).

A great deal on a very high quality drop-in.


----------



## Lischke

It really looks quite nice, and the price is right.

Which one would you guys prefer, the three mode version or the one mode version?

Can't make up my mind about which I'm going to buy. :thinking:


----------



## ^Gurthang

BR, 

Yep, +1 on the LF R2 based D26 drop-ins for cheap. 

Also note that LF is now stocking XPG based drop-ins [single & 3 modes] 

How 'bout an XPG shoot-out between LF, NB and Neo-F XPG drop-ins???


----------



## pae77

Lischke said:


> I'm on a tight budget right now, but really need a cree to my lamp. Which one do you guys consider the best?
> 
> I want a good wide beam, lots of light and acceptable life span.
> 
> I know it's hard to find a good lamp for a low price, but one of them must stand out a little against the others, right?


If you want a wide beam and not too expensive, you should consider a module with an XPG emitter in it. I got a 5 mode XPG module from DX for $14.16 shipped that is working great and I consider it a very good deal. It may not be as bright as some of the harder driven (e.g., 1.5 amp) modules available, but it is still very bright with a nice big hot spot and bright spill, and offers good runtime and efficiency. Only thing that I don't like is that it is 5 mode (with strobe & SOS) instead of 3 mode (just high, med, & low), but considering the price, I was willing to put up with it.

Those Lumen Factory modules sound very nice, especially the XPG ones, but at $28 they are a little more money. Probably worth it though, if you can afford it.

If you get a single mode module, you only have super bright high level with short runtime and will not have the option of running it at a lower power level for close up use or to get increased runtime if you should need it for some reason. Thus I think a 3 or 5 mode is more useful.


----------



## fishx65

What's everyone's take on the Solarforce XPG smooth reflector dropin? Was thinking about ordering a few.


----------



## Black Rose

Lischke said:


> It really looks quite nice, and the price is right.
> 
> Which one would you guys prefer, the three mode version or the one mode version?
> 
> Can't make up my mind about which I'm going to buy. :thinking:


It boils down to what you prefer.

For me, if I was putting one is a 6P or a G2L, i'd get the single mode.
If it was for my Solarforce bodies, I'd get the 3-mode, as I like multi-mode lights (that don't have strobe and SOS).


----------



## Lischke

Black Rose said:


> It boils down to what you prefer.
> 
> For me, if I was putting one is a 6P or a G2L, i'd get the single mode.
> If it was for my Solarforce bodies, I'd get the 3-mode, as I like multi-mode lights (that don't have strobe and SOS).


I ordered the 3-mode version. 

Think it can be good to be able to use less battery power sometimes when 100% isn't necessary.

How many lumens is it on 100%?


----------



## Black Rose

Lischke said:


> IHow many lumens is it on 100%?


Should be around 190 - 200 lumens OTF.


----------



## Lischke

Black Rose said:


> Should be around 190 - 200 lumens OTF.


Cool. What do OTF stand for?


----------



## Superorb

Lischke said:


> Cool. What do OTF stand for?


Out The Front Lumens. It's always less than rated (emitter) lumens due to loss through the front lens and any other bouncing around before it leaves the reflector.


----------



## Paul_in_Maryland

pae77 said:


> Those Lumen Factory modules sound very nice, especially the XPG ones, but at $28 they are a little more money. Probably worth it though, if you can afford it.


I believe the 1-mode is currently on sale for about $18. I've read that the 3-mode is 1.0A on High, while the 1-mode is 1.2A. If so, the 1-mode should be brighter.


----------



## pae77

The XPG models which I was clearly specifically referring to in my previous post are not on sale, unfortunately. Neither the one mode nor the three mode, as of the time I made my first post on the subject. It's the XRE based models that are on sale.

The XRE models are great for throw but I personally find the XPG beam characteristics (bigger spot with bigger brighter spill, and more efficiency) more generally useful, even though they don't throw as well. So the one XRE module I already have will be enough XRE based modules for me. I would like to pick up one of those 3 mode "warmer" toned (5000-5500) XPGs though. I think I'll probably wait until hopefully those go on sale eventually.


----------



## fishx65

fishx65 said:


> What's everyone's take on the Solarforce XPG smooth reflector dropin? Was thinking about ordering a few.


 
Anyone have one of these????


----------



## Black Rose

pae77 said:


> The XPG models which I was clearly specifically referring to in my previous post are not on sale, unfortunately. Neither the one mode nor the three mode, as of the time I made my first post on the subject. It's the XRE based models that are on sale.


They are most likely clearing them out.

Until the XP-G showed up, I thought the XR-E was great. 
Now I have a bunch of XR-E drop-ins that will eventually get shuffled to the back of the drop-in box to make way for XP-G and Rebel based drop-ins (or I'll remove the XR-E LEDs and replace them with something more visually appealing).


----------



## pae77

The 5 mode XPG R5 (1 amp) module I got from DX for $14 (shipped) was an incredible bargain, imo. Perhaps I got lucky but the one I got has a flawless beam and a nice tint, assuming one is OK with cool white. I would guess its between 6,000 and 7,000 K. It has a large very bright hot spot and nice bright spill. Really puts out a lot of light on high powered by a single 18650. 

The only negative is the presence of the Strobe and SOS modes which are annoying to have to cycle through when cycling through the other modes. But since it has memory, it always comes on at the mode it was last used in, so if I just use it on high, it's almost like having a single mode drop-in and I rarely see the other modes. But the low and medium are, of course, still available should they be needed to provide extended runtime in a power outage situation.

It seems very bright and gets pretty hot if left on high in candlestick mode for more than 10/15 minutes or so, but not so hot that one couldn't leave it running on high for longer periods of time. So I'm actually pleased that it's not driving the LED at much more than 1 amp on high (per manufacturer's specs, which I haven't verified yet).

In sum, I'm really pleased with the performance and beam of the XPG emitter and find it much more useful than the beam on the Solarforce XRE that I also have. I'm looking forward to getting some additional XPG based modules, preferably with slightly warmer tints and w/o the strobe and SOS modes. But for $14 shipped, I'm very satisfied and happy with the DX module.


----------



## Lischke

I got a question about the Lumens Factory D26 LED module.

This is what it says "-3V-3.7V Regulated Input for Single Cell Application".

Does that mean I can't use two CR123A cells like i would normally do?

If not, what battery model should I use?

I'm feeling like a real noob right now, but that's just what I am.


----------



## Black Rose

pae77 said:


> But for $14 shipped, I'm very satisfied and happy with the DX module.


I was happy with both of mine as well (single mode versions)...until they both failed and I had to rebuild them


----------



## Black Rose

Lischke said:


> I got a question about the Lumens Factory D26 LED module.
> 
> This is what it says "-3V-3.7V Regulated Input for Single Cell Application".
> 
> Does that mean I can't use two CR123A cells like i would normally do?
> 
> If not, what battery model should I use?
> 
> I'm feeling like a real noob right now, but that's just what I am.


Using 2 CR123A cells will  it.

If the battery tube of your light is wide enough to accept an 18650 cell, use one of those.

If it's for a Surefire 6P or a G2, use a 17670 cell.


----------



## Lischke

Black Rose said:


> Using 2 CR123A cells will  it.
> 
> If the battery tube of your light is wide enough to accept an 18650 cell, use one of those.
> 
> If it's for a Surefire 6P or a G2, use a 17670 cell.


Yeah, the extra voltage will of course kill it. I should have thought of that.

The 17670 should be my best choice, since I have a 6P.

AW sells protected 17670. Think I will go for two of those plus a charger.

Lucky me that I checked the specs of the LED module. Would have sucked to burn it out on the first try. :fail:

These flashlight batteries is a whole new thing for me, but I guess I will learn by lurking around in the forums.


----------



## MosesM

fishx65 said:


> What's everyone's take on the Solarforce XPG smooth reflector dropin? Was thinking about ordering a few.


 
I just got the 1-mode version for my L2P about a week ago, and while I don't have any equipment to measure, nor do I have much experience in this field, I would say that it's a pretty decent drop-in. 

Not sure if Solarforce designed a new SMO reflector for the XP-G or not, but I don't see any donuts. The beam quality otherwise is expected of a SMO reflector, not exactly what you'd call "clean", and the transition from hotspot to spill is not defined. All in all, it's pretty darn bright and with a pretty good balance of throw and flood.

For the price that itc_shop has it for, I'd say go for it.


----------



## pae77

Black Rose said:


> I was happy with both of mine as well (single mode versions)...until they both failed and I had to rebuild them


I hope that doesn't happen with mine but if it does fail within a short time, I'm sure DX will replace it. They are pretty good about things like that. But I've been running mine pretty hard for the past couple of weeks and it has been handling it well so far.

They've been out for a while now. Perhaps they have changed or improved the components that were causing the failures.


----------



## Wiggle

So many P60 dropins to choose from. Here's what I'd like:
-Powered well by 18650 but some kind of tapering or warning before dead cell.
-2 or 3 mode Highest mode hopefully 250+ OTF, low not beyond 30 lumens.
-Mode memory
-Medium throw
-Fast "memory setting", like if I shut the light off and turn it on 1 second later I want the memory mode, not the next one.
-Neutral tint would be a nice bonus

I'm thinking of the Lumens Factory XP-G but it's only driven at 1A and I'm not sure if it will stay in regulation long on 18650.


----------



## pae77

Sounds like a nice set of features. I'm also thinking of the Lumens Factory XPG 3 mode, primarily because it is towards the neutral white tint, reasonable price, and because it is driven at 1 amp rather than pushing things at 1.5 amp like some of the other available modules.

My fear with the 1.5 amp modules is that they will not provide sufficient runtime on high and that they might tend to run a bit too hot.

What I've found with the DX XPG (which is supposed to be driven at 1 amp) is that it is plenty bright (at least for me), runs well on one 18650 with not much, if any, noticeable difference in brightness from when it's driven by two 18350's (i.e., at 7.4 volts), that it gets hot (on high) but not too hot, and that it doesn't provide all that much run time on high, which causes me to think that I would find something driven at a higher current to provide even less runtime and therefore be less desirable.

But I've not yet had an opportunity to even try an XPG module driven at more than 1 amp. (assuming the DX module's listed specs are accurate), so I don't really know how accurate my assumptions are and how much the runtime I'm now seeing on high with a 1 amp module would be reduced in a module that is driven harder.

Edit/Update: I'm finding the DX XPG module is a bit more consistently brighter when powered by two 18350's vs one 18650 (~7.4 volts vs 3.7 volts). Both the DX XPG module and the Ultrafire 18350's (unprotected) from KD are still performing great so far.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Dereelight 3SD XRE-R2 WG
CL1H V4
1 x AW 18650 2600mAh @ 4.15V off charger
Left on High mode (OTF lumens???)
Light wrapped w/ ice pack, not that it needed it, I think
2 hrs flat before drop-in low voltage protection kicked in and light started blinking
Cell measured 3.42V at rest 20mins afterwards

Note to self: keep runtime around 90mins so as not to over-discharge cell again.

Very satisfied.:twothumbs

PWM, if that's what it uses for the medium and low modes, is not noticeable to me.

Does anyone know if this drop-in has a buck/boost circuit or just a very efficient buck circuit?


----------



## Manual Man

Quick Q: MR-C or R2 for better throw at over 250lm?
I'm guessing R2? I need a cheap, smooth reflector drop-in to put in a p60 host to throw about 80-100m for rabbiting, so about 250lm actual output, high + low modes...anyone have any ideas?


----------



## old4570

Manual Man said:


> Quick Q: MR-C or R2 for better throw at over 250lm?
> I'm guessing R2? I need a cheap, smooth reflector drop-in to put in a p60 host to throw about 80-100m for rabbiting, so about 250lm actual output, high + low modes...anyone have any ideas?



The Solarforce 3 mode low voltage drop in is still good , as are the 5 mode ones , but if you can live without strobe and SOS , the 3 mode is a good choice .

Or you may consider a dedicated thrower .


----------



## Wiggle

Just got in my Lumens Factory 3-mode XP-G 3.6-13V drop in. Hard to provide impressions yet, I was getting a weird problem when running on 2 x 16340, output was dropping fast, one cell getting hot and dropping voltage fast. I think the internal impedance of that cell is out of hand, I'll be disposing it before it gets me in trouble. I tried one 17670 and output looks good. Not sure if it can compete with the 350 OTF drop ins I see posted, it seems very close to my Quark on 14500 (about 208 OTF), but better throw. I'll know later when it's really dark how it stacks up.


----------



## pae77

Interested in hearing how that Lumens Factory XPG drop in works out. I like that it's more towards a neutral white tint than most of the others.

For my XPG drop in (a lowly cool white DX one), I've been using a pair of 18350's in a Solarforce host that's designed to take 18650 cells so it can handle the larger diameter. They provide better capacity than the smaller diameter 16340 cells, but the downside is they aren't protected.


----------



## Midnight Oil

My Solarforce L2 bezel gets pretty warm running a Dereelight R2, up to 110 F measured by an IR thermometer. The heat feels to be concentrated at the head and is conducted down along the body towards the tailcap.

After wrapping the drop-in with foil, I notice the head is much cooler around 75-80 F; in fact the entire light is much cooler. Something doesn't feel right. Where has all the heat gone?


----------



## Robocop

Midnight the light showed good heat sinking before you wrapped it with foil....if it is getting hot all over this means it is making good contact with the heat sinking and pretty much doing what it is supposed to do.

If the light is now not getting hot you have changed the surface area of the heat sinking path....in other words the heat is not getting out to the body and this is usually a bad thing. The aluminum foil probably made gaps in between the body and light engine and air does not conduct heat well. I may be incorrect however do believe this is the problem.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Robocop said:


> Midnight the light showed good heat sinking before you wrapped it with foil....if it is getting hot all over this means it is making good contact with the heat sinking and pretty much doing what it is supposed to do.
> 
> If the light is now not getting hot you have changed the surface area of the heat sinking path....in other words the heat is not getting out to the body and this is usually a bad thing. The aluminum foil probably made gaps in between the body and light engine and air does not conduct heat well. I may be incorrect however do believe this is the problem.


 
What is the conduction path I wonder? My drop-in requires an outter spring, and there appears to be considerable wiggle room between the drop-in and the inner walls of the socket.

Without the foil wrap, does the heat go from the brass pill to the outter spring and the reflector, with the former subsequently conducted to the body and the latter to the bezel?

I can't imagine how there can be more gaps with the foil wrap. The foil appears to create a snug fit between the reflector and the inner wall of the socket? Maybe that increases the amount of heat conducted to the body and decreases the amount conducted to the bezel?

Thanks.


----------



## old4570

Midnight Oil said:


> My Solarforce L2 bezel gets pretty warm running a Dereelight R2, up to 110 F measured by an IR thermometer. The heat feels to be concentrated at the head and is conducted down along the body towards the tailcap.
> 
> After wrapping the drop-in with foil, I notice the head is much cooler around 75-80 F; in fact the entire light is much cooler. Something doesn't feel right. Where has all the heat gone?



Possibly ... Before it was smoking hot as it was not heatsinked well , so more heat in pill = more heat to body ..

Now that its heatsinked , the pill does not get as hot , so the light does not get as hot [ one possibility ] 

If it was poorly wrapped [ the pill ] you could be now insulating it [ to much air ] and cooking the emitter [ Possibly ] 

I get foil , wrap it into several layers , [ right width ] is then flattened to get as much air out as possible ... Now wrap the foil tightly and neatly around the pill ... 

The n it needs to be fitted to the light , a nice firm fit ..
I find I usually have too much foil on the pill and it wont go in , so I remove about 1inch at a time , until I get a firm fit [ light crush fit ] , this will push out more air from between the layers of foil ...

:thumbsup:


----------



## Midnight Oil

old4570 said:


> ...
> 
> I get foil , wrap it into several layers , [ right width ] is then flattened to get as much air out as possible ... Now wrap the foil tightly and neatly around the pill ...
> _*I wrap around only at the reflector, not down to the brass pill. Perhaps that's the problem? Do I twist the outer spring onto the pill and then wrap the foil down to it or wrap the pill down to the threads first and then fit the outer spring over the foil?*_
> 
> The n it needs to be fitted to the light , a nice firm fit ..
> I find I usually have too much foil on the pill and it wont go in , so I remove about 1inch at a time , until I get a firm fit [ light crush fit ] , this will push out more air from between the layers of foil ...
> _*This is exactly what I did.*_
> 
> :thumbsup:


----------



## red02

Is there any chance of a short if the foil touches the electrically conductive sides of the LED module.


----------



## pae77

Don't know if I'm doing it correctly but I wrap starting a bit below the top of the reflector, over and around the outer spring, iirc. The hottest point is going to be level with the emitter, or so I would think. You want the foil to be covering the area level with the emitter and below that area as well. At least that's what I think.


----------



## Wiggle

red02 said:


> Is there any chance of a short if the foil touches the electrically conductive sides of the LED module.



Shouldn't be, just keep it away from the small center spring.


----------



## Midnight Oil

In case anyone is wondering how the XPG can look in a P60 SMO, here are some shots of a NB XPG R4 5000K in a Dereelight SMO, compared to one in one of NB's stock LOP. Please note the SMO is in a Solarforce L2 and the LOP is in a Dereelight CL1H V4, whose head yields relatively more spill because the L2 has the strike bezel. The exposure is lowered to accentuate the hotsposts, so I don't think the difference in the spill beams come into play. As for the tints, there isn't a WB setting on my cheap camera that reflects what I see. Then again, individual experiences may vary. Oh, yeah, the wall is not white, but more like beige with a hint of tan.

_*Dereelight SMO (L), Stock LOP (R)*_










Tilt your head or screen a bit to view the Dereelight beamshot at an angle and you may be able to see the defined hotspot.

_*Dereelight SMO (L), Stock LOP (R)*_









The last two pics, as you can see, don't have the same amount of zoom, no tripod, but the difference in the beams is still obvious.

IMHO, the differences are very noticeable. The Dereelight SMO really gathers the light into the hotspot, but the trade-off is a dimmer spill. For up to 30 feet, I prefer the beam of the stock LOP for more flooding. Beyond that the extra throw from the SMO comes in handy.

The SMO does yield some rings, but at least there is no donut hole. The rings are not noticeable beyond 30 feet.


----------



## old4570

Fit the neg outer spring , then wrap ...

I try to get it flush with the copper pill , or just a little shorter when wrapping .

If you have done it correctly , then it simply could be running cooler as its heatsinking correctly ..

Bit like running a car with coolant , and without coolant , one will run stinking hot , and the other wont .


----------



## lemlux

Lantern useage hint for P60 drop-in

For those who contemplate occasionally using lights with D26 XP-G drop-ins as lanterns (with traffic cones or solarforce lantern-heads) be advised that Nailbender has recently started offering a 3-level 1.5A drop in with a 4.2V -8.4 volt controller. This means that you can now run a flexible, bright drop-in with 2 @ 18650's for longer fun time. 

If you are concerned about tailstanding tippieness, try inserting the Surefire C, D, or P body into an inverted Mag C head used as a base. This works very well.


----------



## offroad

Any low voltage 3-mode drop-in's that will give higher output than the Solarforce R2 .8-4.2v when running on 2xAA eneloops?
prefer to stay in the $35 or under price range.


----------



## Midnight Oil

offroad said:


> Any low voltage 3-mode drop-in's that will give higher output than the Solarforce R2 .8-4.2v when running on 2xAA eneloops?
> prefer to stay in the $35 or under price range.



A Nailbender XPG R4 or R5 should do the trick. $35 including CONUS shipping. He offers a low voltage 3 mode boost only driver. Check it out on his sales thread.


----------



## offroad

Midnight Oil said:


> A Nailbender XPG R4 or R5 should do the trick. $35 including CONUS shipping. He offers a low voltage 3 mode boost only driver.



I have been looking at that one, I guess the R5 would give the highest output? I've also seen mention of a Dereelight .9-4.2v 3-mode but I only seem to find the one that's for 1x18650 not a 2xAA version.
Which one of these would be better and are there others I should consider? Should I expect a very noticeable output gain over the Solarforce R2?


----------



## Midnight Oil

offroad said:


> I have been looking at that one, I guess the R5 would give the highest output? I've also seen mention of a Dereelight .9-4.2v 3-mode but I only seem to find the one that's for 1x18650 not a 2xAA version.
> Which one of these would be better and are there others I should consider? Should I expect a very noticeable output gain over the Solarforce R2?


 
Forgot to mention, if you're using a Solarforce L2r host, the exposed circuits of NB's drop-ins, which are present on only his boost driver boards, will not allow the bezel to be screwed all the way down. In addition, you'll need to insulate the surface of those circuits from the bottom of the L2r head socket with some electrical tape. I don't think the Dereelight Javelin host shares this problem.

The last time I checked, SF P60 low-voltage drop-ins are XRE-R2s, which provide a more forcused hotspot and narrower spill than the XPGs' floodier beam. The XPG R4 and R5 will provide more lumens or total output, but it's distributed over a larger, much more diffused hotspot and wider spill. So depending on what you're looking for, the XPGs may or may not meet your expectations of improved performance over the SF R2s.

Regarding the Dereelight low-voltage drop-ins, check dereelight.com or with Jay at flashlightconnection.com.


----------



## Midnight Oil

Does anyone know which P60 LED drop-in comes close to matching the warmth of the stock Surefire G2 P60 incan?

I just received my SF G2 yesterday and I must say I'm captivated by the warm incan beam. It is very "rich," like a good cup of hot chocolate. It also looks a lot brighter than the stated 65 lumens. In fact it seems brighter than the medium modes on my R2 and R4, both of which are well above 100 lumen OTF.

Thanks.


----------



## red02

I think Nailbender offers Warm White LEDs. The tint should be close to P60 if I'm not mistaken. There was a comparison between the 4sevens WW lights and the P60 and those seemed pretty close 7D-something. The tint was on their site Nailbender's WW LEDs are warmer, but I have no idea what you'll see in real life...

I was toying around with my P60 just the other day and I understand what you mean about richness, but the yellow tint doesn't really appeal to me.


----------



## Midnight Oil

red02 said:


> I think Nailbender offers Warm White LEDs. The tint should be close to P60 if I'm not mistaken. There was a comparison between the 4sevens WW lights and the P60 and those seemed pretty close 7D-something. The tint was on their site Nailbender's WW LEDs are warmer, but I have no idea what you'll see in real life...
> 
> I was toying around with my P60 just the other day and I understand what you mean about richness, but the yellow tint doesn't really appeal to me.


 
Red,

Thanks for the referral. I know that ugly yellow tint you're talking about. I see it in my 4300K light next to the other neutral and CW lights. The P60 incan almost has a red tint to it, making it more orange-red than yellow. I think that's what I like about it. It makes things pop out like 3D vision.


----------



## etc

Midnight Oil said:


> Does anyone know which P60 LED drop-in comes close to matching the warmth of the stock Surefire G2 P60 incan?
> 
> I just received my SF G2 yesterday and I must say I'm captivated by the warm incan beam. It is very "rich," like a good cup of hot chocolate. It also looks a lot brighter than the stated 65 lumens. In fact it seems brighter than the medium modes on my R2 and R4, both of which are well above 100 lumen OTF.
> 
> Thanks.



+1

I like the tint of P60 or P90 modules but don't like their extremely short runtime (compared to LED modules like Malkoff) or their short life. 

But the tint is very nice yes... I think P90 might be better than P60 and I hear P91 even better. 

I want an LED module in the same tint. I am not so worried about lumens. In fact, I would want one with low lumens, maybe 60-80 but decent runtime. From what I hear, M61WLL is a 'neutral' tint that doesn't approach that of P60.


----------



## Paul_in_Maryland

offroad said:


> I've also seen mention of a Dereelight .9-4.2v 3-mode but I only seem to find the one that's for 1x18650 not a 2xAA version



To get the 0.9-4.2V 3-mode, you must order it directly from Dereelight.com in Asia. That's how I bought mine. It's weak and blue on a single 1.2-1.7V cell. It's nice and strong and white (not cool, not warm) on three Eneloop AAs or two NiZn AAs.


----------



## red02

Paul_in_Maryland said:


> To get the 0.9-4.2V 3-mode, you must order it directly from Dereelight.com in Asia. That's how I bought mine. It's weak and blue on a single 1.2-1.7V cell. It's nice and strong and white (not cool, not warm) on three Eneloop AAs or two NiZn AAs.



I have a 3 stage 0.9-4.2v XRE R2 dropin and its pretty warm on 1xAA on high. Warmer than a P3D and I would guesstimate it was WG which is what I requested on the paypal notes...


----------



## Midnight Oil

red02 said:


> I have a 3 stage 0.9-4.2v XRE R2 dropin and its pretty warm on 1xAA on high. Warmer than a P3D and I would guesstimate it was WG which is what I requested on the paypal notes...



I managed to get a Dereelight 3SD R2 WG. Next to my Solarforce LC1 single mode R2 and my XPG R4 5000k, it appears green, but not as green as my NB R2 WD. When viewed alone, though, the WG seems pretty neutral.

Oh, how my eyes play tricks on me.

IIRC, the Dereelight drop-ins use PWM for the lower modes. The PWM is not noticeable at all in my sample, but I was informed that it reduces efficiency, so respective runtimes on the medium and low modes are not great.


----------



## red02

Midnight Oil said:


> I managed to get a Dereelight 3SD R2 WG. Next to my Solarforce LC1 single mode R2 and my XPG R4 5000k, it appears green, but not as green as my NB R2 WD. When viewed alone, though, the WG seems pretty neutral.
> 
> Oh, how my eyes play tricks on me.
> 
> IIRC, the Dereelight drop-ins use PWM for the lower modes. The PWM is not noticeable at all in my sample, but I was informed that it reduces efficiency, so respective runtimes on the medium and low modes are not great.



Unfortunately as of yet there are no current controlled P60 dropins.

I think I got a WD based on your explanation. Absolutely no hint of green, just white with a slight hint of yellowish tone. Kind of hard to describe... 

Weird thing is that my Dereelight dropin shifts tints more than my current controlled lights with blueish white on lowest and very nice creamy white on high with 1xAA. This is through pyrex but the Dereelight glass is set up to act like a colored filter in that it blocks some of the blue tint.


----------



## Tally-ho

red02 said:


> Unfortunately as of yet there are no current controlled P60 dropins.


Zhongwin/Xeno was making D26 drop-in, 3 modes with no PWM but the last one i bought has noticeable PWM.
EDIT:
It seems that they fixed the problem:
"_FARKA F8 with high-efficiency new Engine DD2, constant current circuit (current regulated output modes): constant brightness in each mode, Non-Flickering in each mode, no noise. ultra-long burning time 100hours in ultra-low mode, max output OTF300lms.

LED:CREE XP-G 1B R5
Rated Input of LED Driver: DC3.0~6V
Use 18650*1 Li-ion rechargeable battery or CR123A*2

3-Stage Variable Output: High, Low, Ultra Low
Max Output: [email protected](OTF,full high level)
Max Burning Time:100 [email protected](Ultra-Low level)
High(1100mA/OTF300lms), Low(350mA/OTF115lms), Ultra Low(20mA/OTF10lms)
Measured burning time:
High--2.5 hours, Low--8 hours; Ultra Low--100 hours; 

Measured with*: single SANYO 2600mAH 18650 rechargeable Li-ion battery. Full recharged and continuous testing to get a burning time.
*The experience result will be a little different for the battery of different brand, condition etc.

With Low voltage cut-off protection
With Low voltage blink warning
With Built-in battery inverted-load protection_"

I hope that the farka's D26 module could be purchase separately like they used to do.

An XP-G D26 module with neutral tint, low-med-high sequence, memory feature, no PWM will be great.


----------



## pae77

This farka module sounds great except nothing was said in the specs about the tint, (unless I missed it) or the price. Would like to find something like that in a true neutral white.


----------



## Tally-ho

pae77 said:


> This farka module sounds great except nothing was said in the specs about the tint, (unless I missed it) or the price.





red02 said:


> LED:CREE XP-G *1B* R5


Flux bin: R5
Tint bin: 1B







Concerning the price, I actually don't know if the drop-in could be purchase separately.

Since a few months i am asking for a new drop-in with low-med-high sequence + memory feature. I asked this morning for neutral and warm tints but i already know the response if i am still the only one to ask: "If there is a market demand we will...".

Zhongwin is actually very busy, working on a new flashlight for september so i don't know if it is the right time to ask for something new but you can reach a member of the team, XENOled, to leave to her your suggestions:
http://www.thebrightsideforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=47 (csshih's forum).

Note that Xeno drop-ins have slightly longer reflector so their modules won't fit all P60/D26 hosts.


----------



## red02

Tally-ho said:


> Zhongwin/Xeno was making D26 drop-in, 3 modes with no PWM but the last one i bought has noticeable PWM.
> EDIT:
> It seems that they fixed the problem:
> "_FARKA F8 with high-efficiency new Engine DD2, constant current circuit (current regulated output modes): constant brightness in each mode, Non-Flickering in each mode, no noise. ultra-long burning time 100hours in ultra-low mode, max output OTF300lms.
> 
> LED:CREE XP-G 1B R5
> Rated Input of LED Driver: DC3.0~6V
> Use 18650*1 Li-ion rechargeable battery or CR123A*2
> 
> 3-Stage Variable Output: High, Low, Ultra Low
> Max Output: [email protected](OTF,full high level)
> Max Burning Time:100 [email protected](Ultra-Low level)
> High(1100mA/OTF300lms), Low(350mA/OTF115lms), Ultra Low(20mA/OTF10lms)
> Measured burning time:
> High--2.5 hours, Low--8 hours; Ultra Low--100 hours;
> 
> Measured with*: single SANYO 2600mAH 18650 rechargeable Li-ion battery. Full recharged and continuous testing to get a burning time.
> *The experience result will be a little different for the battery of different brand, condition etc.
> 
> With Low voltage cut-off protection
> With Low voltage blink warning
> With Built-in battery inverted-load protection_"
> 
> I hope that the farka's D26 module could be purchase separately like they used to do.
> 
> An XP-G D26 module with neutral tint, low-med-high sequence, memory feature, no PWM will be great.



Seems great, except its not available anywhere and no AA support. So its really just academic. The newest Farka at Flashlightsngear is PWM, the runtimes are the proof.


----------



## Black Rose

red02 said:


> Unfortunately as of yet there are no current controlled P60 dropins.


There are if you mod them with the L-Mini II driver.

All modes are current controlled, no PWM.

But its voltage range eliminates it from AA use unless you use 3 NiMh AA or 2 NiZN AA.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

Nothing to do with the single AA question...

But I do have one 3 level P60 that has NO noticeable PWM. Can't say for sure who made it however.


----------



## Wiggle

pae77 said:


> Interested in hearing how that Lumens Factory XPG drop in works out. I like that it's more towards a neutral white tint than most of the others.



After playing with the LF drop in for a few weeks I can't recommend it. The PWM on low is visible, medium and high mode have a little mini flicker to them when first activated and they changed the mode timing. On my old R2 you would turn the light off for a half second and back on without triggering a mode change so it worked well with forward clicky, this one the timing feels like just over a second, which isn't terrible compared to some but not what I wanted. The output is nothing to write home about, on one cell or two it doesn't seem any brighter than my Quark AA on 14500. 

I mean overall it's not terrible compared to a cheap one, but for the price I think the other options are better. I'm either selling mine or moving it to my secondary P60 host and getting Nailbender to build me an XP-G for my C2.

EDIT: It looks like the flickering is possibly a cell problem with my AW 17670. 18650 and 2 x 16340 do not exhibit this flickering, the PWM frequency may actually be quite high.


----------



## Wiggle

oops, double post.


----------



## Tally-ho

Wiggle said:


> I'm either selling mine or moving it to my secondary P60 host and getting Nailbender to build me an XP-G for my C2.


If you don't want a neutral or warm XP-G but look for an XP-G.R5 cool white, Thrunite drop-in modules work great with no flickering. They are driven to 1500mA. The 1 mode drop in is brighter than 3 modes.


----------



## pae77

Thanks for the mini review of the LF XPG drop in.

I'm still experiencing quite good performance from my DX XPG 5 mode in my L2P. Just wish the tint was more neutral white instead of cool white and could do w/o the SOS mode. Aside from that, no complaints really, especially considering the price.


----------



## Midnight Oil

A bit off topic, but I've been wanting to ask this for some time. Why aren't there manufacturers who offer a selection of aftermarket Surefire C series and clone compatible heads of different sizes, say from D26 thru 6", and a selection of respective P60 pill compatible reflectors for the most popular emitters for those heads that yield different beam characteristics , e.g., beam angle, wide spill vs narrow spill, relative hotspot and spill size, transition from hotspot to spill, etc?


----------



## kaufmanjd

I am shopping for p60 dropins and was curious about a few things. First, is there any reliability downside to running a xpg r5 at 1.5A as opposed to 1A (Obvious loss of efficiency battery life, etc. not withstanding)? Second, is there any advantage to getting a relatively cheap (same cost as a thrulite xpg dropin) MCE dropin that runs at a relatively low A in terms of overall performance/bang-for-buck? 
Lastly, why are there so few (if any) MCE dropins that can be run on ~4-8v -or am i missing something?

thanks


----------



## pae77

Well one thing is that running on max at 1.5 amps, the XPG will run pretty hot especially if run on max for more than a few minutes at a time. I'm just speculating but I would think that subjecting the emitter and electronics (as well as the battery) to such high heat could, over time, have an effect on longevity of these components. That said, I would think they should still last for a pretty long time anyway. Just not quite as long as they would if not subjected to such high temperatures.

The nice thing about drop ins is that they are easy to swap out and replace.


----------



## kaufmanjd

yeah.....I guess you are right.....dropins are replaceable. Longevity be darned! Max Lumens, Scotty!


----------



## Tuikku

Ordered my first P60 host recently.
I was going to purchase some high-end drop-in right away but decided first to try the host out with something cheaper.

I ended up bying a Solarforce 5 Mode XP-G R5 340 Lms 4.2V-8.4V.
I also checked out some cheapo DX drop-ins (didn´t dare although was reading also something good about them) and Nailbender thread.

Not wise to ask after buying but: are there any quality issues with these Solarforce drop-ins?


----------



## pae77

I think the Solarforce drop ins generally represent good quality and value, especially if you can find one that has the features you want.

I'm using the Solarforce low voltage R2 3 mode drop in in my L2R and find it to be a very good quality drop in with a nice tint for a cool white R2. However, overall I prefer the higher performance of my DX XPG R5 5 mode drop in with orange peel reflector. I was considering the Solarforce XPG drop in but I was concerned there might be artifacts in the beam from the use of a smooth reflector. I would be interested in hearing how the Solarforce XPG beam is with respect to artifacts? Perhaps it's just fine.

I wish DX offered a 3 mode XPG. Also wish they offered a neutral white XPG emitter. So far, have to look elsewhere and pay more for those features.

But I needed a low voltage drop in for the L2R because I wanted to have one P60 host I could run on Eneloops and the Solarforce low voltage drop in has proved to be very good for that and the price was very reasonable.


----------



## Tuikku

pae77 said:


> I was considering the Solarforce XPG drop in but I was concerned there might be artifacts in the beam from the use of a smooth reflector. I would be interested in hearing how the Solarforce XPG beam is with respect to artifacts? Perhaps it's just fine.



Thanks for your reply.

I noticed that smooth reflector in Solarforces drop-in and it made me think twice, sadly there was no choice to get OP reflector :shrug:
When I get my light and drop-in working, I will take a look and tell how it looks :thumbsup:


----------



## MartinSE

Which are the best drop-ins for 18650 now in different price classes? Flat regulation on 18650 is important. Do the drop-ins with wide voltage range not provide flat regulation on single li-lion? 

To go in dereelight cl1h.

Thanks.


----------



## how2

*heat issues?*

I have got a Smallsun A1 which is the same as UniqueFire R5 Cree XPG-1AO-R4 and SKYRAY S-R5 Cree XPE-R.

When I use aluminium foil the head heats up quickly and gets hot. How hot is too hot?


My question is How Hot will the head get after:


Here are my results. The flashlight temp is 22C at the start.
1Min - 22.9 (73.22)
2Min - 24.4
3Min - 26.2
4Min - 27.6
5Min - 28.9 (84.02)
6Min - 30.1
7Min - 31.4
8Min - 32.4
9Min - 33.3
10Min - 34.3 (93.74)
11min - 35.2
12Min - 36.1
13Min - 36.8
14Min - 37.5
15Min - 38.1 (100.58)
16Min - 38.8
17Min - 39.3
18Min - 39.9
20Min - 40.8 (105.44)
21Min - 41.1
22Min - 41.5
23Min - 41.9
24Min - 42.2
25Min - 42.4 (108.32)
26Min - 42.6
27Min - 42.7
28Min - 42.9
29Min - 43.5
30Min - 43.8 (110.84)


The light was resting on a wooden table for this test.


----------



## Superorb

*Re: heat issues?*

^^ But did output noticeably decrease as a result of the heat in your test?


----------



## how2

*Re: heat issues?*



Superorb said:


> ^^ But did output noticeably decrease as a result of the heat in your test?



Hi superorb 

I did the test in the day time and the hot spot was just as bright. I also did the test at night but did not measure the temp. At night the output did not go down. 

What i need to know is the normal temp at 30mins?


----------



## MOS2111

Thanks for putting this list together. It really makes my life easier.


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## Shrigg

Tuikku said:


> Thanks for your reply.
> 
> I noticed that smooth reflector in Solarforces drop-in and it made me think twice, sadly there was no choice to get OP reflector :shrug:
> When I get my light and drop-in working, I will take a look and tell how it looks :thumbsup:



I have and heartily endorse the single mode Solarforce XPG-R5 with smooth reflector. It has a pretty neutral tint, super bright hotspot and nice usable spill. Solarforce are the only ones I've seen that have managed to get an XPG to throw! It is my favorite drop in by far and I've tried most all the boutique drop ins. Sold em all and just enjoy my inexpensive 340 (claimed) lumen P60 throwers! I do wish they made a 3 mode with a 0.1% moonlight level, 20% medium and 100%


----------



## pae77

Shrigg said:


> I have and heartily endorse the single mode Solarforce XPG-R5 with smooth reflector. It has a pretty neutral tint, super bright hotspot and nice usable spill. Solarforce are the only ones I've seen that have managed to get an XPG to throw! It is my favorite drop in by far and I've tried most all the boutique drop ins. Sold em all and just enjoy my inexpensive 340 (claimed) lumen P60 throwers! I do wish they made a 3 mode with a 0.1% moonlight level, 20% medium and 100%



Interesting review. I would probably get one if they made a 3 mode with the levels you mentioned. Might try one anyway.

I've recently been thinking about maybe getting one of those modules with 3 XPGs in it that also have 3 modes. They sound pretty amazing. A little expensive though.


----------



## MartinSE

MartinSE said:


> Which are the best drop-ins for 18650 now in different price classes? Flat regulation on 18650 is important. Do the drop-ins with wide voltage range not provide flat regulation on single li-lion?



Sorry, just wanted to bump my questions. Any input?

Thanks


----------



## red02

The problem is that dropins aren't as well reviewed as complete lights themselves. Runtime graphs are very hard to come by if not impossible. If your lucky you'll find some beamshots but not much more. Unfortunately, I don't think anyone has that type of information.

In a more general sense you'll need something thats right for a single RCR123 with the appropriate voltage range. The difference is that the 18650 has more capacity.

I don't think flat regulation and large variation in range of voltage are mutually exclusive. Someone with more understanding and exp than me can speak to this.


----------



## MosesM

I have the 1-mode Solarforce XPG R5 w/ SMO reflector and concur with Shrigg's findings above. I replaced the driver in mine with a 1-mode 4x7135 driver and it is noticeably brighter but also heats up the host quite fast. Compared against an XRE R2 w/ OP reflector, the XPG still doesn't throw as far or have as tight a hotspot, but I believe it's pretty much the best option for a budget D26 XPG SMO reflector.

I also drilled out the base opening of the Solarforce XPG SMO reflector and tried it with an XRE R2 but could not get it to focus properly. Seems like the designs are quite different.


----------



## gshack

Thanks for the information. I have been looking for a XP-G three mode drop in. Great resource!


----------



## Tuikku

Tuikku said:


> I noticed that smooth reflector in Solarforces drop-in and it made me think twice, sadly there was no choice to get OP reflector :shrug:
> When I get my light and drop-in working, I will take a look and tell how it looks :thumbsup:



Got the Solarforce 5-mode 4,2V-8,4V R5 dropin today.
I have not tested it very long yet, but if I have time today, I post some beamshots. Not sure I can successfully take them with my skills.
Bought it from eBay, air_supply07

First impressions:
Led itself was about 1mm off from center :shakehead
There was some light dirt on reflector, very little scratch or two.
I wiped it with cotton pad and acetone. Did not get 100% off but seems decent to me now.

Led being off-centered seems to affect the beamshape quite little.
I have no bigger lights to compare this with. 
If Taken side by side with iTP A1 SS (R2, OP reflector), this has roughly the same size spot.

Transition from spot to spill is quicker than iTP´s.
I pointed both lights to forest, about 50-80m away. This R5 seems to have almost the same size spot with iTP´s R2. With more output, this out-throws my little iTP.

I worried that this R5 would have too big hotspot to be usable at medium range but I think it will be quite good for my uses. Maybe I´ll take it for a walk tonight.


----------



## Tuikku

I tried to fiddle with my ye olde Ixus, but it ended up like this:

http://www.jynkky.fi/~drsnu/itp_low.jpg

http://www.jynkky.fi/~drsnu/itp_high.jpg

http://www.jynkky.fi/~drsnu/P60R5_low.jpg

http://www.jynkky.fi/~drsnu/P60R5_high.jpg

About only reasonable info you can get out of these is, that itp has wider spill while hotspot area is roughly the same...

About Solarforces tint, I could say its pretty much neutral. To my eye, there´s no sign towards bluish or yellowish. Not as warm as my Preon or itp A3. 

pae77: about artifacts in beam. Maybe not the best drop-in to inspect since the LED is not centered. Otherwise I cannot see artifacts in beam. I see one or two very faint rings in beam, best visible at medium mode. I´m no-pro and I need a clean white wall to see these.
IMO for a user like me even that off-centered led makes "quite a small" anomaly to beam :shrug:
Cannot spot those flaws in normal outdoor use.


----------



## recDNA

Anybody got a Dereelight R5 P60 and the 1.5 amp Thrunite R5?

The Thrunite is rated as putting out more output yet I have two of them and my Dereelight R5 P60 looks brighter and whiter to me.

I'm curious if anybody finds the Thrunite 1.5 amp R5 to look brighter than other XP-G P60's thy own?


----------



## Qmotion SIS

I just ordered the ThruNite XP-G R5 drop in. I'm going to put it in a Solarforce L2X extended host and run it with 4 CR123A batteries.

http://www.illuminationgear.com/145071.html


----------



## shipwreck

Yes, I ordered the 2 cell L2x with that ThruNite drop in today from Illumination Gear as well. Can't wait to try it out... I almost went with the SST50 Solarforce drop in, but decided to go this route instead.


----------



## Qmotion SIS

shipwreck said:


> Yes, I ordered the 2 cell L2x with that ThruNite drop in today from Illumination Gear as well. Can't wait to try it out... I almost went with the SST50 Solarforce drop in, but decided to go this route instead.


 


ShipWreck, don't show me any more flashlights:sick2:


----------



## shipwreck

Qmotion SIS said:


> ShipWreck, don't show me any more flashlights:sick2:


----------



## recDNA

shipwreck said:


> Yes, I ordered the 2 cell L2x with that ThruNite drop in today from Illumination Gear as well. Can't wait to try it out... I almost went with the SST50 Solarforce drop in, but decided to go this route instead.


 

I'm very curious about the tint of the hotspot and the overall output vs other R5 P60's you may own.


----------



## shipwreck

recDNA said:


> I'm very curious about the tint of the hotspot and the overall output vs other R5 P60's you may own.



Well, I don't have it yet. I ordered it late in the day so it will go out today. I should have it Sat hopefully. I'll let ya know


----------



## Tuikku

Just wondering:
Do all P60 manufacturers use PWM in their drop-ins?
Does anyone have higher PWM´s, so you could not notice it so easily?


----------



## orbital

+ 

Dereelight now has Smooth (SMO) reflectors for their XP-E & G drop-ins.
http://www.dereelight.com/module-list.htm

This will give a nice boost overall, especially in throw
....without rings like all the XR-E drops had.


----------



## Midnight Oil

I have a Dereelight SMO and a LOP for the XRE. Like orbital says, the SMO is quite ringy. Even the LOP produces a dark ring around the hotspot. 

The interesting thing is both produce wider spills than other SMO and LOP reflectors, respectively. Perhaps they are more shallow?

In addition, the LOP also produces a tighter hotspot than other LOPs.

If only there were a central supplier of P60 reflectors offering different beam shapes for buyers to choose.

Really like to see what these new SMO for the XPE and XPG can do.


----------



## Sgt. LED

Well if they took their time and did it right I think an XP-G in a smooth reflector could be the perfect beam. Of course if the reflector has the wrong angle or isn't properly focused it could also be, well, horrible.

We need user feedback. Sigh..... I may have to order tonight. Is there anyone else going to give these a try? The smooth reflector XP-E should have some serious throw going for it.


----------



## red02

orbital said:


> +
> 
> Dereelight now has Smooth (SMO) reflectors for their XP-E & G drop-ins.
> http://www.dereelight.com/module-list.htm
> 
> This will give a nice boost overall, especially in throw
> ....without rings like all the XR-E drops had.



No rings? seems boring... actually the only thing holding me back from getting some XPG lights.

Doesn't the XPE have a lower surface brightness and a larger emission angle meaning it won't be as good of a thrower?


----------



## pae77

The recent Solarforce XPG modules (single mode and 5 mode) have smooth reflectors. The few comments I've seen regarding the beam have been fairly positive. They only cost about $15 or less on ebay (BIN). 

\\


----------



## Midnight Oil

Ya know, I tried my NB XPE Q3 in my DBS with SMO for SST50. The hotspot starts out really small and uniform, unlike the layered hotspot of the R2, but quickly diverges. The spill is smooth and uniform as well, with no artifacts. The edge of the hotspot is also much sharper than that of the R2.

Yeah, a well designed reflector goes a long way. Just look at that of the 47 Maelstrom with an XPG R5 in a SMO.


----------



## Black Rose

red02 said:


> No rings? seems boring... actually the only thing holding me back from getting some XPG lights.


Lack of Cree rings is a good thing IMHO.

The rings are the biggest gripe with most of my drop-ins, and the main reason why most of them don't get used.


----------



## red02

Black Rose said:


> Lack of Cree rings is a good thing IMHO.
> 
> The rings are the biggest gripe with most of my drop-ins, and the main reason why most of them don't get used.


I'll be glad to take them off your hands :naughty:

I'm used to minimag rings so its probably what I think a light should look like. The rings also give some character to otherwise plain beam.


----------



## iWiLL

Here are some beamshots of the Solarforce XPG drop-in.

Solarforce LC-XPG (R5, single mode, 3V-18V) with one and two batteries





Solarforce LC-XPG (R5, single mode, 3V-18V) vs. Solarforce LC-1 (R2m, 5 modes, 4.2V-8.4V)





Solarforce LC-XPG (R5, single mode, 3V-18V) with one battery vs. Solarforce LC-1 (R2m, 5 modes, 4.2V-8.4V) with two batteries


----------



## Notsure Fire

Those results pictures are so professional looking that you can publish them!


----------



## John N

I'm curious if anyone has a good candidate for a drop in that can run on 1x18650 or 2x123a cells, has three levels (with memory) and do around >=200lm on high?

Basically, something like a Fenix TK11.

Thanks,

-john


----------



## pae77

John N said:


> I'm curious if anyone has a good candidate for a drop in that can run on 1x18650 or 2x123a cells, has three levels (with memory) and do around >=200lm on high?
> 
> Basically, something like a Fenix TK11.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -john


Solarforce has some 3 modes (with memory) that come in various voltage ranges and put out quite a bit more than 200 lumen on high. 

Here's a new low voltage Solarforce 3 mode XPG P60 module for < $15 shipped that handles up to 4.2 volts so can only use a single 123a or 18650 cell at a time, (but has the advantage of being able to also use 2 NiMH AA's in a Solarforce L2R host instead of the Li-ion cells). I'm pretty sure they also have some higher voltage range 3 mode modules using other emitters slightly less bright than the XPG (but still way over 200 lumen max) that could take either 1 or 2 Li-ion cells. So I would take a look at their line if you are interested in getting something pretty high quality at very low cost.


----------



## John N

It sounds like it will be underpowered on 1x18650, but it will run in that mode and they are inexpensive enough, so I'm going to give them a shot.

Thanks,

-john


----------



## pae77

John N said:


> It sounds like it will be underpowered on 1x18650, but it will run in that mode and they are inexpensive enough, so I'm going to give them a shot.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -john


Not at all. If you get the XPG one especially, I think you will likely be quite impressed with the brightness, beam and runtime on one 18650. I can't detect any less brightness with my low voltage module from those that use higher voltage and that can use two cells. Two 18650's would give you a lot more runtime than one though, obviously. But the difference in brightness, if any, isn't very noticeable, at least to my eyes.


----------



## John N

Thanks. I'm mostly planning on upgrading the fair number of Surefire G2s I have lying around, so I can't really run an 18650 anyways, although I've decided all new hosts will be 18650 capable. I'll try out a 17670 and see how it compares.

They are a great deal, and if they work even semi reasonably, I'll have no complaints.

FWIW, I ended up going with the R2 3-mode 4.2v-8.4v unit (R2H-3M). 

-john


----------



## pae77

The only difference will be a bit less runtime with the slimmer lower capacity battery. You might consider trying one of the Solarforce hosts which are essentially Surefire clones. They are much better than their very low prices would lead one to think.

That site is offering some great prices/discounts off their regular already low prices. Just today I picked up one of those XPG 3 mode drop ins for $14.99 plus an L2i P60 host (it can use either 3 AAA's with the included battery carrier, or 1 18650, or 2 16340's w/o the carrier) for only $7.99, plus a few stainless steel bezels for my various L2's, plus $2.00 shipping (regardless of the size of the order). The downside is it usually takes a few weeks for the standard (cheap) shipping because it's coming from Hong Kong.

The L2P for about $20 is a nice tail standing capable host that also takes 1 x 18650 or 2 x 16340 or 2 x 18350 and can take 2 x 18650 with an optional battery tube extender. It has a nicer HA3 matte finish than the cheaper L2's. But they all are great lights for the money and the L2, L2p, L2i, L2m (with extension), can all take 18650's. And they are interchangeable with many Surefire parts.


----------



## Tuikku

I have been testing solarforce 3-mode R2 OP 4,2-8,4V dropin.
I earlier had an XPG dropin and I kinda could use another solarforce with more flood (buddy bought away my XPG...).

Are MCE, P7 and SST-50/90 dropins usable at all on high, or do they overheat so quickly, that the total output drops down to XPGs output?

What of these 3 would you suggest?
I had a SBWolf Mini-edc SST-90, it was too floody to my taste but P60 XPG was quite nice.


----------



## pae77

If you're asking me, I don't know. I'm kind of curious about those drop-ins too, but I haven't tried one. Hopefully someone else will provide some more info on that. 

I've just used the XRE R2 and XPG R5 drop-ins and been pretty happy with both, but of the two I prefer the floodier and slightly brighter beam and greater efficiency of the XPG, although I prefer the slightly more neutral tint on my XRE. Could just be the tint lottery there. 

I wish they would come out with a neutral white XPG 3 mode drop in though.


----------



## deeuubee

I just decided to try out the Solarforce L2X host and ordered the:
XPG 3 mode 0.8-4.2v, XR-E WC R2 0-4.2V, P7 1 mode 3-6V.

I wanted to see for my self which one I like. If you can wait a few weeks  till I get them, 
I'll post beamshots of all three side by side.

They're supposed to have the 3 mode P7 soon, but I wanted to see the P7 now. 

If it gets too hot




in the L2X host, I have a larger project for it.

I actually went with the L2X host because it looked a little beefier.


----------



## Tuikku

pae77 said:


> I wish they would come out with a neutral white XPG 3 mode drop in though.


I would prefer this setup also.


----------



## don.gwapo

Has anyone tried/have a lumens factory lamp assembly on solarforce L2's line? I wanna try one if they fit/work without any mods? Thanks.


----------



## John N

Hello, 

I recently ordered some Solar Force Cree R2 (R2H) "300lm" and XPG (XPG) "320lm" P60 style drop-ins to run in some Surefire G2s. 

I'm wondering if these will run too hot for the lexan windows.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

-john


----------



## Notsure Fire

didn't know there's such a difference between the XPG and LC-1


----------



## Corvette6769

*This was the cached page 32 of 39 of https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252&page=32  as it appeared on 2/25/2011 (Bing cach page). *

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *Notsure Fire* on 11-01-2010 06:38 PM GMTdidn't know there's such a difference between the XPG and LC-1

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *notsobrite* on 11-06-2010 10:23 AM GMTdoes anyone know of a 2 mode hi/med or hi/lo xp-g drop-in?

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *kosPap* on 11-07-2010 02:54 AM GMT


don.gwapo said:


> Has anyone tried/have a lumens factory lamp assembly on solarforce L2's line? I wanna try one if they fit/work without any mods? Thanks.


do not worry,,,LF modules are standard as like any other regarding size & components (see their pics) and the L2 has the most generous space inside.... do not worry,,,LF modules are standard as like any other regarding size & components (see their pics) and the L2 has the most generous space inside.... 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *kosPap* on 11-07-2010 02:57 AM GMT


notsobrite said:


> does anyone know of a 2 mode hi/med or hi/lo xp-g drop-in?


no, not unless you or soemone else makes one with AMC7135 chip board....soem of them are configurable, KD sells ahi-lo one and maybe Nailbender can make one if he has not already that option available no, not unless you or soemone else makes one with AMC7135 chip board....soem of them are configurable, KD sells ahi-lo one and maybe Nailbender can make one if he has not already that option available 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *notsobrite* on 11-08-2010 12:27 PM GMT


kosPap said:


> no, not unless you or soemone else makes one with AMC7135 chip board....soem of them are configurable, KD sells ahi-lo one and maybe Nailbender can make one if he has not already that option available


no- nailbender doesn't offer that option 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *fatheadhill* on 11-09-2010 07:52 PM GMTJust curious if anyone had any experience withthese.., just spotted them. I'm not very familiar with drop-ins with their own optics, but it looks interesting. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *psychbeat* on 11-10-2010 01:20 AM GMTlooks just like the neosekian modules?not feelin the 4-9v personallyI prefer single 18650.probably throws pretty well tho! 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *Superorb* on 11-10-2010 08:01 AM GMTSo has there been a new P60 dropin released lately that has modes and a LOW low mode, like 1L? The Thrunite XPG I have is the lowest low I have at 5-10L.

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *Black Rose* on 11-10-2010 09:43 PM GMT


psychbeat said:


> looks just like the neosekian modules?


Manufacturer: Titanium Innovations / Neofab Manufacturer: Titanium Innovations / Neofab 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *kosPap* on 11-11-2010 02:00 AM GMT


notsobrite said:


> no- nailbender doesn't offer that option


???? ????*Cree XP-G -$35 (levels are 100% / 40% / 5**% )**2 levels High / Low 2.8-6 volts with memory/ 1.4 amp*http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=282416

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *JonnyC* on 11-11-2010 09:11 AM GMT


psychbeat said:


> not feelin the 4-9v personallyI prefer single 18650.


I agree. Does someone make a plastic sleeve that would allow you to run two R123A's instead of a 18650 without any rattle? Basically, a 1mm thick sleeve with an OD of 18mm? I agree. Does someone make a plastic sleeve that would allow you to run two R123A's instead of a 18650 without any rattle? Basically, a 1mm thick sleeve with an OD of 18mm?I'm having a hard time deciding on a drop-in for an L2m long-throw weapon light build. The D1000 is intriguing, so is the M61 (too pricey), and also nailbender's XR-E with 8 degree optic. For now though I just tossed in a XR-E R2 drop-in to an order on DX just for the hell of it. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pae77* on 11-11-2010 10:38 AM GMTIf you don't mind using unprotected cells, you could run two 18350's in place of one 18650. 18350's have the same diameter as an 18650 (so no worries about any additional rattle) plus more capacity/runtime than 16340s. But I'm also one who finds a single 18650 to generally be the best way to go. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *linterno* on 11-12-2010 04:38 PM GMT


JonnyC said:


> Does someone make a plastic sleeve that would allow you to run two R123A's instead of a 18650 without any rattle? Basically, a 1mm thick sleeve with an OD of 18mm?


Masking tape around the cell will do the trick. Masking tape around the cell will do the trick.EDIT: typo correction. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pae77* on 11-12-2010 04:50 PM GMTWhat I've done is just take a small piece of cardboard or two about the length of the battery(s) and use it as a shim between the battery and the flashlight to take up any excess space. I use this approach with the Solarforce L2p to take up the extra room it has around 18650's. Simple and works fine for me.

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *harddrive* on 11-14-2010 10:40 PM GMT


don.gwapo said:


> Has anyone tried/have a lumens factory lamp assembly on solarforce L2's line? I wanna try one if they fit/work without any mods? Thanks.


Yes I have two lumens factory drop-ins and they work fine in solarforce L2, L2P, L2M. You need the outer spring fitted to make them work. Yes I have two lumens factory drop-ins and they work fine in solarforce L2, L2P, L2M. You need the outer spring fitted to make them work. I recently got the Lumens factory XPG single mode and the tint is a bit green. I also have the single mode low voltage XR-E R2 which is a really nice drop-in with perfect white tint and excellent throw. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *deeuubee* on 11-15-2010 03:16 PM GMTMy Solarforce L2X and 3 dropins arrived.XPG 0.8-4.2v R5 3 mode w/memoryXR-E 0.8-4.2v WC R2 3 mode w/ memoryP7 - 3.0-6.0v 1 modeThere is a big difference in brightness between the XPG and the XR-E.They are both bright, but the XPG has a much brighter hot spot.It's hard to compare the P7 to the other two. It's super bright, but all flood.Tuikku if you want FLOOD, the Solarforce P7 - 3-6v is all flood and bright.I ran it for 15-20 mins. and, it got warm but not hot.I'll try to put up pictures tomorrow. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *psychbeat* on 11-16-2010 05:11 PM GMT


JonnyC said:


> I agree. Does someone make a plastic sleeve that would allow you to run two R123A's instead of a 18650 without any rattle? Basically, a 1mm thick sleeve with an OD of 18mm?I'm having a hard time deciding on a drop-in for an L2m long-throw weapon light build. The D1000 is intriguing, so is the M61 (too pricey), and also nailbender's XR-E with 8 degree optic. For now though I just tossed in a XR-E R2 drop-in to an order on DX just for the hell of it.


Just get Nailbender to do an X-RE for you with a SMO reflector Just get Nailbender to do an X-RE for you with a SMO reflector then u can run 18650sI put that blue painters tape on my 18650s for when they rattle in myL2P... I also had to pull the spring out so it was tighter so it didnt changemodes while DH MTB'ing- super annoying. 

*Solarforce LC-XPG (R5, 3 modes, 0.8V-4.2V) Beamshots*Written by *iWiLL* on 11-16-2010 06:53 PM GMT



I took some beamshots with my Solarforce LC-XPG low volage (R5, 3 modes, 0.8V-4.2V) drop-ins today.This drop-in is a clear winner, it is brighter at 4.1V than the single mode XPG (R5, single mode, 3V-18V) at 8.2V.Solarforce LC-XPG (R5, 3 modes, 0.8V-4.2V) vs Solarforce LC-XPG (R5, single mode, 3V-18V):http://www.sasv.at/images/iwill/sol.../iwill/solarforce-xpg-beamshot-01-t.jpg[/img]http://www.sasv.at/images/iwill/sol...iwill/solarforce-xpg-beamshot-01b-t.jpg[/img]Was not sure if I mixed up the pictures so I took another side by side:http://www.sasv.at/images/iwill/sol.../iwill/solarforce-xpg-beamshot-02-t.jpg[/img]http://www.sasv.at/images/iwill/sol...iwill/solarforce-xpg-beamshot-02b-t.jpg[/img]How low can it go? Well, it will not work below 1V.http://www.sasv.at/images/iwill/sol.../iwill/solarforce-xpg-beamshot-03-t.jpg[/img]Powered by two AA batteries in a L2R host:http://www.sasv.at/images/iwill/sol.../iwill/solarforce-xpg-beamshot-04-t.jpg[/img]http://www.sasv.at/images/iwill/sol...iwill/solarforce-xpg-beamshot-04b-t.jpg[/img]Solarforce LC-XPG (R5, 3 modes, 0.8V-4.2V) vs Solarforce LC-XPG (R5, single mode, 3V-18V) both at 4.1V:http://www.sasv.at/images/iwill/sol.../iwill/solarforce-xpg-beamshot-05-t.jpg[/img]http://www.sasv.at/images/iwill/sol...iwill/solarforce-xpg-beamshot-05b-t.jpg[/img]I took a few more pictures, if you like any other comparison (vs Solarforce LC-1 XR-E drop-in) just let me know. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *deeuubee* on 11-16-2010 08:02 PM GMTiWiLL...Thanks, I was just about to ask that question.ps - what resolution and size are you using for your pictures? They're really clearI'm going to ask them for an OP reflector. I'm wondering how it would compare to the P7 drop in. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pae77* on 11-16-2010 08:07 PM GMTI got one of those Solarforce low voltage 3 mode XPG drop ins too. It's nice (and a great value at $15) but I think I might rather have it with an OP reflector. I just prefer a smoother transition from the hot spot to the spill. But that thing is very bright, that's for sure.

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *PerttiK* on 11-17-2010 09:50 AM GMTAnyone seen any neutral white dropins?Besides deree Q5 5C... 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pounder* on 11-17-2010 04:47 PM GMTI just got the solarforce xp-g 5 mode 4.2-8.4v drop-in and found something very odd..it is brighter using 1 18650 rather than 2 16340's..this is the opposite of my xr-e R2 drop-in (single mode 3-18v) which was brighter on 2 16340's vs 18650..this has been verified with pictures and although they are close you can see the slight difference..I also tested it with my iphone light meter app which showed 1/4 second shutter with the 16340's and 1/6 s shutter on the 18650 (aperture and iso were the same)..meaning the 18650 is slightly brighter..i'm glad with these findings because the 18650 lasts longer than the 16340's..but why would this be the case? everything i've ever used love higher voltages over lower voltages..these tests were performed right as the light was activated, so no heat was present.. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *Moses Mok* on 11-18-2010 10:42 PM GMTpounder: I'm guessing the driver may be dropping out of regulation on a single li-ion cell application (<4.2v) and putting the emitter to direct drive. This may result in it being brighter than a 2 li-ion cell setup.

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pounder* on 11-19-2010 12:14 AM GMT


Moses Mok said:


> pounder: I'm guessing the driver may be dropping out of regulation on a single li-ion cell application (<4.2v) and putting the emitter to direct drive. This may result in it being brighter than a 2 li-ion cell setup.


yeah you may have something..that or cell sag..but the regulation seems more likely.. yeah you may have something..that or cell sag..but the regulation seems more likely.. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *John N* on 11-19-2010 10:56 PM GMTAnyone have a source for rings to help mate dropins w/outer spring to some light hosts?Seems like there was a Beryllium-Copper spring washer sold for Malkoff dropins, but they seem to be gone now.I also thought I saw what looked like about a 12ga wire soldered or welded into a ring somewhere, but I can't remember where.Anyone know where to find such beasts?Thanks,-john 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *Chicago X* on 11-20-2010 06:10 PM GMT


John N said:


> Anyone have a source for rings to help mate dropins w/outer spring to some light hosts?{snip}...Thanks,-john


I'm on a quest for the same thing. I'll report back from the hardware store. I'm on a quest for the same thing. I'll report back from the hardware store. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *High-Low-Yo* on 11-21-2010 02:26 PM GMTI purchased the 5-Mode drop-in from Battery Junction for my P60, and it works great! Much brighter than the original beam and batteries last a lot longer , even on High mode! 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *blkdawg* on 11-21-2010 10:08 PM GMTI recently got 2 DX XP-G drop in. SKU 32954."Cree XP-G R5 5-mode 320 lumen white light LED drop in module 3.7v~18v."Right off the bag one went . Trying it on my dad's 6P with 2 RCR123a. The other one didn't but it would turn bluish after 30-50sec of run-time and with RCR123 one time it went totally blue and i had to shut it of quickly. Still runs, but i'm a little worry. Does anybody else have this kind of problem with Dealxtreme XP-G? Seems like they are just POS. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pae77* on 11-22-2010 12:48 AM GMTI have one of those DX XPG drop ins. Mine has been working fine for about 5 months. I run it for several hours per night bouncing it off the ceiling for some low level ambient lighting so it's seen hundreds of hours of use and is still working fine.On the other hand, my Solarforce XRE R2 low voltage drop in just stopped working properly. It no longer switches modes reliably and it's hard to get it to even turn on. Putting it a different host doesn't cause it to work any better. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *kosPap* on 11-22-2010 04:09 AM GMTI had two modules like that, and I have located the problem...These modules with modes have a sandwich PCB...one on top of the other...wires to the led are soldered ontop of the sandwich...then a Kapton like tape is applied....BUTthe boards are rather high for the pill inside volume...mate that to the tape not sticking properly, and you have a Short....My solution was to remove the board, resolder the wires as low as possible then put Kapton tape in the INSIDE of the brass pill.....


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## Corvette6769

*This was the cached page 34 of 39 of **https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252&page=32** as it appeared on 2/12/2011 (Bing cach page). *


*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *John N* on 12-10-2010 11:58 AM GMTYes, I think the 3000mah 18650s to date are most suitable to low drain applications. I think the poster should cruise on over to the battery section and investigate before they buy.-john 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *Aaron1100us* on 12-10-2010 06:25 PM GMTAnother question. Is the single 1860 the way to go with the Solarforce light and XM-L T6 LED? Its the 3V to 18V version. One 18650 is 3.7v and two CR123 are 6V. Won't it be brighter with two CR123 than one 3.7V 18650?

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pae77* on 12-10-2010 06:33 PM GMT


Aaron1100us said:


> Another question. Is the single 1860 the way to go with the Solarforce light and XM-L T6 LED? Its the 3V to 18V version. One 18650 is 3.7v and two CR123 are 6V. Won't it be brighter with two CR123 than one 3.7V 18650?


You could use either 1 or more li-ion batteries with that drop in due to the wide voltage range it accepts. It will not necessarily be noticeably brighter with more than one cell. At least that has been my experience with other drop-ins that can take one or more li-ion cells. As the available voltage goes up, the current draw goes down, ime, so that may be why there isn't much of a noticeable difference. But my experience is limited to only a few different drop ins. Perhaps some get brighter with higher voltage. I just haven't seen that happen with the drop-ins I've experimented with. With more than one cell, however, you will get much longer runtime than you would with just one cell, (obviously, assuming the cells are all the same capacity). You could use either 1 or more li-ion batteries with that drop in due to the wide voltage range it accepts. It will not necessarily be noticeably brighter with more than one cell. At least that has been my experience with other drop-ins that can take one or more li-ion cells. As the available voltage goes up, the current draw goes down, ime, so that may be why there isn't much of a noticeable difference. But my experience is limited to only a few different drop ins. Perhaps some get brighter with higher voltage. I just haven't seen that happen with the drop-ins I've experimented with. With more than one cell, however, you will get much longer runtime than you would with just one cell, (obviously, assuming the cells are all the same capacity). 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *Aaron1100us* on 12-10-2010 06:51 PM GMTOk, thanks. I just need to figure out which would have longer run time, two 1300mah CR123 or one 2400mah 18650? I don't really care about run time too much as this will just be a light for fun. But I would like the longest run time possible with this set up. I like the size of a two CR123 or single 18650 light, don't want any extensions to add more cells. At least with the 18650, it would be rechargeable.Does anyone have a light with this LED and a single 18650 or two CR123? Any beam shots of this LED? Wonder what it will be like compared to my TK45? 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pae77* on 12-10-2010 07:31 PM GMTIn general, you are much safer using a single higher capacity li-ion cell rather than 2 or more cells. This is because it is very easy to over discharge the smaller cells and when they are in a multiple cell configuration that can be very dangerous, especially with li-ion cells. You can read about the potential dangers in the battery section of this forum. But aside from the dangers, there is also a high likelihood of damaging the smaller cells because li-ion cells suffer damage when they are over discharged.In sum, you are much better off not having to worry about the potential issues and dangers of using multiple li-ion cells in a single flashlight if you don't have to. So I would strongly recommend using a single 18650 over two or more smaller cells. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *Aaron1100us* on 12-11-2010 05:11 AM GMTJust ordered two protected trust fire 18650's and charger from DX. Hmm, now all I have to do is wait for everything to get here, can't wait to see what this light is going to be like.

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *tandem* on 12-17-2010 12:29 PM GMTFYI Nailbender is now taking orders on a limited basis for XM-L drop-ins, driven at 3.1 amps. SeePart 8 of Dave's sales thread for details.(and prepare to wait in line!) 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *Superorb* on 12-17-2010 12:31 PM GMTHas there been a P60 dropin released recently that has a LOW low mode of less than 5L or is the Thrunite XP-G 2.7-4.2v still the lowest low mode dropin?

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pae77* on 12-17-2010 01:05 PM GMT


Superorb said:


> Has there been a P60 dropin released recently that has a LOW low mode of less than 5L or is the Thrunite XP-G 2.7-4.2v still the lowest low mode dropin?


Not that I am aware of, however, the XPG 5 mode drop-in I got from DX for about $14 shipped has the lowest low I have yet seen on a P60 style drop-in. I'm not sure of the lumen value although I would expect it probably is a bit more than 5 lumens (probably more like 10~20 lumen if I had to guess). Perhaps my example of that drop in is unusual but even the medium mode has fairly low output. It only uses about 450 mAh's of battery capacity to run continuously for 8 or 9 hours in medium mode. Not that I am aware of, however, the XPG 5 mode drop-in I got from DX for about $14 shipped has the lowest low I have yet seen on a P60 style drop-in. I'm not sure of the lumen value although I would expect it probably is a bit more than 5 lumens (probably more like 10~20 lumen if I had to guess). Perhaps my example of that drop in is unusual but even the medium mode has fairly low output. It only uses about 450 mAh's of battery capacity to run continuously for 8 or 9 hours in medium mode. I haven't tested but I expect the low mode would probably consume about half as much capacity as the medium mode and possibly even less. If I remember, I'll test how much capacity it consumes on low mode after I get some of my other drop ins, which unfortunately developed defects within a few months of purchase, replaced. Ironically, it's that DX drop-in which has turned out to be the most reliable of my drop-ins so far (as well as having the lowest low), although I've heard reports that several others have not had such great luck with that model.The XML drop in I ordered from Kai Domain has finally shipped so I hopefully will be receiving it in another week or two. It will be interesting to see how much it draws at the tail on high. KD didn't provide much info about it on their site. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *Superorb* on 12-17-2010 01:35 PM GMT


pae77 said:


> The XML drop in I ordered from Kai Domain has finally shipped so I hopefully will be receiving it in another week or two. It will be interesting to see how much it draws at the tail on high. KD didn't provide much info about it on their site.


XM-L = a new emitter? XM-L = a new emitter? 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *tandem* on 12-17-2010 01:38 PM GMTNailbender's regulated multi-stage drivers all seem to have a 5% low on them and that seems about right in my experience - one XR-E module I have puts out roughly 10ish lumens on low.However.... if low is more important to you than max, maybe you could approach this by having him build you a multi-level high CRI light (which start out with lower max brightness), possibly with one of the non-Cree emitters (maybe a P4 warm high CRI?).If you've not already asked Dave what the lowest low combo of emitter and driver he has maybe that's an option to try. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pae77* on 12-17-2010 01:44 PM GMT


Superorb said:


> XM-L = a new emitter?


Yes, XML is the next new Cree emitter, i.e., replacing the XPG as the latest thing. Supposed to be approximately 20% more efficient than XPG and can be driven considerably harder and therefore can go brighter. Remains to be seen how they actually perform and what the tints are like. They are just starting to appear and become available in some drop ins and lights. Yes, XML is the next new Cree emitter, i.e., replacing the XPG as the latest thing. Supposed to be approximately 20% more efficient than XPG and can be driven considerably harder and therefore can go brighter. Remains to be seen how they actually perform and what the tints are like. They are just starting to appear and become available in some drop ins and lights. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *tandem* on 12-17-2010 01:55 PM GMT


Superorb said:


> XM-L = a new emitter?


Yes, a new line in the Cree family of XLamps (from which the XP-G comes). A larger emitter it'll tend to be naturally more floody and have less throw than the XP-G, much as the XP-G tends to have less throw than an XR-E. Yes, a new line in the Cree family of XLamps (from which the XP-G comes). A larger emitter it'll tend to be naturally more floody and have less throw than the XP-G, much as the XP-G tends to have less throw than an XR-E.When driven lightly it might compete with the XP-G in lights but the big claim to fame is that it can be driven much harder. Check this post out for a comparison of output between XP-G and XM-L at various currents. The XP-G max forward current is 1.5 Amp while the XM-L max forward current is 3A. The SST50 max forward current is 5A. At ~ 3A apparently the XM-L will approach or meet the SST-50 in output, if I've read that correctly. Whatever the on-the-ground truth is, this is the next evolutionary step up from an XP-G for increased output in a P60 module without going to much greater expense.Here are some beam shots comparing XM-L vs SST-50. Scroll to the bottom of this post for two XM-L beamshots. Edit: Here is a new review (2010-12-18) of two ThruNite Catapult lights, one with the original SST50 and one with an XM-L.Some have described it as a "mini SST". Speaking of that... actually, the really big claim to fame is not just that it can be driven harder than an XP-G but that it is about the same price as an XP-G whereas the SST50 and SST90 emitters are much more expensive than the XM-L. Cree is pricing them aggressively either because they can due to production costs, or because they want to (to hurt Luminus) or a bit of both. The XM-L is less than 1/4 the price of a SST-50 which means it can show up in inexpensive lights readily.The XM-L is going to open up all sorts of high-output low cost opportunities for P60 drop ins. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *orbital* on 12-22-2010 11:24 AM GMT+KD one mode XM-L drop-in {in a CL1H}the op reflector it came with is kinda floody;put it in a SMO reflector, better overall hotspot. I'll try several different reflectors, including my DBS V1yes,,its bright & the tint is surprisingly neutral :thumbsup:edit: *Did a bounce test w/ SSC P7 driven almost 3A & this XM-L is nearly identical, for doing a quick comparison,..this XM-L is one bright drop-in.*http://img571.imageshack.us/i/p1010...imageshack.us/img571/2649/p1010427c.jpg[/img]

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pae77* on 12-22-2010 12:42 PM GMTGlad to hear that the tint is good (i.e., close to neutral). Here's some more info about the KD XM-L 5 mode drop-in that comes from a review a customer recently posted on the KD site (finally some useful info on KD's site :shakehead):"*NICE & BRIGHT**Strengths: *Really is a Cree XM-L LED. Driver draws 2.6A on High and remembers the last mode after the light is off for 2 seconds or more. Puts out significantly more light than a XP-G with a larger hotspot and a little more throw. Compares well to MC-E and P7 LED's, but without the donut hole or + in the beam. Modes are well separated with Medium at about 35% of High and Low at 5% of High. Mode sequence is High-Med-Low-Strobe-SOS. I got 40 minutes of runtime on a 2400mAh protected gray Trustfire battery, which is better than I expected. Current draw at the tail went from 2.63A at 4.17V to 2.40A at 3.85V and 1.82A at 3.69V (battery voltage measured at rest).*Weaknesses:* Not 1000 lumens. Maybe 500-600 lumens since the driver is drawing about 2.6A (and delivering less than that to the LED) and the XM-L needs 3A to come close to 1,000 lumens (and you still won't get that much out of the front of the light). The board is not glued to the pill, but there is thermal paste there at least. As long as the reflector is screwed on, it shouldn't be a problem. Don't care for strobe or SOS, but the strobe is killer and the SOS has correct spelling. It's a little expensive for a drop-in, but this is a brand new LED and the price may come down eventually.*Summary:* This is a good drop-in that offers more flood than throw (you will need a bigger reflector to focus the light from the big LED). Make sure you have good heat sinking, because it is using at least 11 watts initially." (Emphasis added.)So, glad to hear it sounds pretty good and looking forward to getting the one I ordered to stick in a L2P or L2i (powered by a Trustfire protected (red/black/flame) 2400 mAh 18650), with a multi coated glass lens (also from KD). Should be pretty nice. Will be interesting to see how hot it gets on high.

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pounder* on 12-22-2010 01:12 PM GMT


orbital said:


> +KD one mode XM-L drop-in {in a CL1H}the op reflector it came with is kinda floody;put it in a SMO reflector, better overall hotspot.gunna try several different reflectors, including my DBS V1yes,,its bright & the tint is surprisingly neutral :thumbsup:http://img571.imageshack.us/i/p1010...imageshack.us/img571/2649/p1010427c.jpg[/img]


what smooth reflector did you use and where dod you obtain it? thanks what smooth reflector did you use and where dod you obtain it? thanks 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *orbital* on 12-22-2010 02:37 PM GMT


pounder said:


> what smooth reflector did you use and where dod you obtain it? thanks


+ +Its a standard P60 smooth reflector, I have a couple left over from the xr-e days.When I said the tint is neutral, what I was saying is that it wasn't cool/blueish, I have zero interest in cool tints.I can't remember being as exited about an emitter as the xm-l they are very nice!~ 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pounder* on 12-22-2010 03:07 PM GMTnice so a standard xr-e reflector will fit..that helps a ton thanks..I have the 5 mode xm-l T6 from kai coming in the RQ 7 host..i'm hoping it's the same drop-in as the stand alone module..the host for 5$ more is a bit of a gamble, but I have my L2p that I can use the module in if the host is garbage.. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pae77* on 12-22-2010 06:52 PM GMTWell perfect timing, the mailman delivered my XML drop-in from KD today. I am very impressed with it. I basically agree with everything stated in the review I quoted a few posts back above. The spacing of the Hi, Med and Lo modes is excellent and the percentages given in the review quoted above seem correct to me. The low is very low for a P60 type drop-in, which is nice as I'm one who likes to have a very low low. Also the tint on mine seems to be a bit towards the neutral end of the spectrum as well, although still quite white compared to a true neutral. But there is nothing wrong with the tint, i.e., no odd colors.But the most amazing thing to me so far is just how huge the hot spot is. It's much bigger than those from any of the other emitters I'm familiar with (XPG, XRE, XPE). It's a quantum leap forward, imo, to be able to get an emitter this bright with such a big hot spot for just slightly more than a more standard Cree emitter such as an XPG or XRE.The XM-L emitter itself is quite large. To help show the relative size of it, here's a photo of the XM-L emitter in the KD (5 mode) drop-in on the right, next to an XPG emitter in its drop-in on the left. (The bezels of both lights are the same and are lined up with each other, so both emitters are about the same distance away from the camera).



Again, I'm extremely impressed and I feel this XM-L emitter basically makes XPG obsolete. Looking forward to night falling here (still a few hours away) so I can really see what this new emitter can do.Edit: Well after it got dark I took it outside and was totally blown away by the wall of light this thing puts out. It also throws pretty decently for a P60 module (although I didn't compare its throw directly to an XRE so can't say if throws as well or better or worse than an XRE). Although I haven't personally tried one of those triple XPG modules that cost over $100 apiece, I have a feeling that this single XM-L T6 emitter may put out a comparable amount of light with a similar big floody beam pattern. But this does it much more efficiently and with less heat and also it's much less expensive at its current price of only $18.80 shipped (and probably less prone to developing faults due to it being a less complex single emitter design). I really feel that these Cree XM-L T6's represent a major and significant step forward in the history/development of flashlight LEDs. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *michaelmcgo* on 12-23-2010 03:53 AM GMTHow does the build quality look on these lights?Could you post a beamshot and if possible take amp readings at the tail please..... 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pae77* on 12-23-2010 04:35 AM GMT


michaelmcgo said:


> How does the build quality look on these lights?Could you post a beamshot and if possible take amp readings at the tail please.....


Assuming you are referring to the KD XML T6 5 mode drop in: Can't post beam shot now, sorry. Assuming you are referring to the KD XML T6 5 mode drop in: Can't post beam shot now, sorry.Some tail draw readings were listed in review quoted in post #1005. Build quality appears to be excellent on my particular example. It also has a nice tint that is white but tending a bit towards neutral. Got about 2.7 hours runtime in continuous operation in the medium mode and the light stayed just slightly warm (not at all hot) while tail standing in medium. Reviewer quoted above got about 40 minutes runtime on max. It gets a bit hot if left running in max. Haven't had enough time to test the runtime on low but it's looking good so far. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *cy* on 12-25-2010 04:44 PM GMTjust ordered this .... we'll see how it does


pae77 said:


> Not that I am aware of, however, the XPG 5 mode drop-in I got from DX for about $14 shipped has the lowest low I have yet seen on a P60 style drop-in. I'm not sure of the lumen value although I would expect it probably is a bit more than 5 lumens (probably more like 10~20 lumen if I had to guess). Perhaps my example of that drop in is unusual but even the medium mode has fairly low output. It only uses about 450 mAh's of battery capacity to run continuously for 8 or 9 hours in medium mode. I haven't tested but I expect the low mode would probably consume .



*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pae77* on 12-25-2010 05:03 PM GMT


cy said:


> just ordered this .... we'll see how it does


I hope you get as good a sample as I did. I hope you get as good a sample as I did.I just decided to give myself a Xmas gift and ordered another of the KD XM-L T6 5 mode drop-ins. The design and workmanship on the first one I got seems very good just judging by what I can see from the outside as well as by its performance. For example, the LED is perfectly centered in the reflector and the levels are spaced really well. High is really bright with short runtime, med is pretty bright with decent runtime (just under 3 hours), and low provides a still useful amount of light with quite extended runtime (considerably more than 10 hours with a 2400 mAh 18650). I still haven't had a chance to find out just how long it will really run on low. Anyway, I like the first one I got so much, I decided to go for another (which will knock one of my Solarforce XPG (0.8-4.2 volt) 3 mode drop-ins out of a host, unless I buy yet another host for the new XM-L drop-in. But I don't feel like buying another host right now as I already have 4 Solarforce bodies. I guess it won't hurt to have a spare XPG drop-in lying around. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *sfca* on 12-25-2010 09:27 PM GMTAnyone tried the 3.1A (or 2.8A) XM-L drop-in from Nailbender yet?Happy Christmas! :wave:

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *svennow* on 12-25-2010 09:36 PM GMTI've used a lot of p60 dropins, and think thw R2 gives the most "bang for the buck" rigth now. until the R5 gets out in the shops. The R2 which i think is the most bang for the buck is from DX sku.14442 it's a 5mode 250lm dropin 3-8,4V

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *Corvette6769* on 12-26-2010 05:30 PM GMT


svennow said:


> I've used a lot of p60 dropins, and think thw R2 gives the most "bang for the buck" rigth now. until the R5 gets out in the shops. The R2 which i think is the most bang for the buck is from DX sku.14442 it's a 5mode 250lm dropin 3-8,4V


Why would anyone want a R2 when they can have a sku.32954 Cree XP-G R5 5-Mode 320-Lumen White Light LED Drop-in Module (26.5mm*29.3mm/18V Max) for $11.78? Why would anyone want a R2 when they can have a sku.32954 Cree XP-G R5 5-Mode 320-Lumen White Light LED Drop-in Module (26.5mm*29.3mm/18V Max) for $11.78? 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *pae77* on 12-26-2010 05:53 PM GMT


Corvette6769 said:


> Why would anyone want a R2 when they can have a sku.32954 Cree XP-G R5 5-Mode 320-Lumen White Light LED Drop-in Module (26.5mm*29.3mm/18V Max) for $11.78?


And that brings up the question as to why anyone would still want an XPG of any bin when they could now order an XM-L T6 drop-in with easily over twice the lumen output (maybe even three times, if driven at max 3 amps) for a very reasonable $18 to $21 shipped (depending on model selected) from KD, (and probably also from DX some day soon). And based on the one I got, not only is the output better but also the tint on the XM-L seems better than any of the XPG's I've seen to date (not that the XPG's are bad or anything) just that the XM-L seems to be a few notches closer to the neutral zone, tintwise, which I prefer, although I suppose that is a personal preference that not everyone would agree with. And that brings up the question as to why anyone would still want an XPG of any bin when they could now order an XM-L T6 drop-in with easily over twice the lumen output (maybe even three times, if driven at max 3 amps) for a very reasonable $18 to $21 shipped (depending on model selected) from KD, (and probably also from DX some day soon). And based on the one I got, not only is the output better but also the tint on the XM-L seems better than any of the XPG's I've seen to date (not that the XPG's are bad or anything) just that the XM-L seems to be a few notches closer to the neutral zone, tintwise, which I prefer, although I suppose that is a personal preference that not everyone would agree with. And granted it is about $8 or $9 more expensive than the XPG module referred to above, but seems well worth the few extra $$ to get a drop in that can put out a "wall of light" that, imo, begins to approach the output and performance of a far more expensive triple XPG module, but yet does it more efficiently, and cooler running, plus with the simplicity of a single emitter. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *Corvette6769* on 12-26-2010 05:57 PM GMTMy Cree MX-L T6 drop-in finally arrived 12-24-10 (ordered 12-3-10) and it is everything the above posters describe.Simply amazing and awesome, even though I only get *2.2793A* at the tail cap with my Fluke 189 digital multimeter with fully charged TrustFire Protected 18650 3.7V True 2400mAh Rechargeable Lithium BatteriesI have a second drop-in in transit RQ 07 Cree XML T6 1000 Lumen 5-Mode LED Flashlight (1*18650) SKU: S009851 host that I ordered 12-9-10 and finally shipped on 12-23-10 (so much for KD's "Availability: ship in 1-3 business days"). I hope it will be driven somewhere near the 3.0A potential of the XM-L LED. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3 )*Written by *Corvette6769* on 12-26-2010 06:02 PM GMT


pae77 said:


> And that brings up the question as to why anyone would want an XPG of any bin when they could have an XM-L T6 drop-in with easily over twice the lumen output (maybe even three times, if driven at max 3 amps) for a very reasonable $18 to $21 shipped (depending on model selected) from KD, (and probably also from DX some day soon). And based on the one I got, not only is the output better but also the tint on the XM-L seems better than any of the XPG's I've seen to date (not that the XPG's are bad or anything) just that the XM-L seems to be a few notches closer to the neutral zone, tintwise, which I prefer, although I suppose that is a personal preference that not everyone would agree with. And granted it is about $8 or $9 more expensive than the XPG module referred to above, but seems well worth the few extra $$ to get a drop in that can put out a "wall of light" that, imo, rivals the output and performance of a far more expensive triple XPG module, but yet does it more efficiently, and cooler running, plus with the simplicity of a single emitter.


I agree 100%. My reference was in keeping in his price. But with that said, as far as bang for the buck, I agree that XM-L T6 is by far the best bang for the buck right now and will only get better as the price comes down. I agree 100%. My reference was in keeping in his price. But with that said, as far as bang for the buck, I agree that XM-L T6 is by far the best bang for the buck right now and will only get better as the price comes down. 

*Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)*Written by *Black Rose* on 12-26-2010 11:07 PM GMT.....


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## Corvette6769

Hopefully someone out there has RSS of the missing pages & posts (as of 2-25-11, there were 1146 posts, so at least 203 posts are missing from this thread)


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## shao.fu.tzer

Corvette6769 said:


> Hopefully someone out there has RSS of the missing pages & posts (as of 2-25-11, there were 1146 posts, so at least 203 posts are missing from this thread)


 
I'm seeing posts missing everywhere I look. Let's be grateful for what we have and work on rebuilding CPF to its former glory.


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## Corvette6769

I did the best I could from the cached pages. I feel this thread is one of the most useful and significant threads here on the forum.


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## Corvette6769

*The following is the combined content of 47 email notifications I received between Saturday, December 4, 2010 2:02 AM CST (apparently the day I subscribed to this thread) and Wednesday, February 23, 2011 3:30 PM CST (apparently just before the secret event that caused the loss of all posts and the server backups to disappear without explanation). *

*I hope this helps as it took me 46 minutes to compile this post through copy and paste all the email notifications I received.*

*Unfortunately, none of my posts are here because the forum does not send copies of posts to the poster via email notification, so unless others here can fill in, my posts are lost forever. *

*Since I assumed this forum had backups of its backups (as all professional forums do), I never saw a need to keep copies of my own posts.*

************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3614402
Posted by: Corvette6769
On: 12-03-2010 10:00 AM

---Quote (Originally by CathastrophiX)---
XM-L drop-ins available now (at one of the chinese dealers)
---End Quote---

How about giving us a hint (DX, KD, &/or a Sku number or two)?
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3614530
Posted by: CathastrophiX
On: 12-03-2010 12:16 PM
Sku S009843 and S009853. Dealername starts with K.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3614858
Posted by: Corvette6769
On: 12-03-2010 05:47 PM

---Quote (Originally by CathastrophiX)---
Sku S009843 and S009853. Dealername starts with K.
---End Quote---
Wow that was easy. Thank you. Believe me, I searched both DX and KD for XM-L and XML, after seeing your post this morning and found nothing (hence my request for a hint). Then this afternoon, after seeing your reply, not only did they come up in search, I see bare MX-L sku S009857, 
S009856, and S009855 at the top of their home page.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3614859
Posted by: pae77
On: 12-03-2010 05:49 PM
Thanks for the info. I ordered one of the 5 modes. Should be interesting to see what it's really like. Imagine it would get pretty hot on max.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3615247
Posted by: John N
On: 12-03-2010 10:59 PM

---Quote (Originally by John N)---
It isn't for the sides -- it is for the bottom.
I don't have a Malkoff, but with the Titanium Innovations / Torchlab triple XPG, there is no outer spring (like the Malkoff) and the outer contact doesn't quite make contact with the ledge where the spring would contact.
I suspect this would be solved if the Torchlab dropin didn't have a insulated (painted) side. 
As it is, I suspect the outside edge of the dropin does make contact, but since it is insulated it doesn't help. Putting the copper ring in first forces ledge to copper to dropin contact.
This happens with the Solarforce L2P host, as well as my Surefire L90 assembly. The L90 is a bit nicer because the ledge is larger.
http://www.oveready.com/led-light-engines/cat_63.html
-john

BTW, I ended up replacing my shock bezel with a Z44. Much better than using the ring IMO. More direct pressure, no loss of light, and no risk of deforming the rubber thingy due to constant compression.
---End Quote---
I went ahead and made a ring of 12ga wire (common house wire). 
I started by wrapping around an 18650, and then fine tuning it a bit by trimming the edges with diagonal nippers. I then soldered it for extra durability. This solves the fitment issue I have with this module with my Surefire shotgun fore-end light, and some of my Solarforce L2Ps. 
Outer diam. of the ring is about 21.6mm. The inside diam. of the ring is about 17.5mm:
Image: http://navitsky.org/lights/surefire_918fa_extended/10-DSC_7362-1024x768.jpg 
[full size] (http://navitsky.org/lights/surefire_918fa_extended/10-DSC_7362.JPG)
Light w/o the ring:
Image: http://navitsky.org/lights/surefire_918fa_extended/06-DSC_7356-1024x768.jpg 
[full size] (http://navitsky.org/lights/surefire_918fa_extended/06-DSC_7356.JPG)
Light with the ring:
Image: http://navitsky.org/lights/surefire_918fa_extended/07-DSC_7355-1024x768.jpg 
[full size] (http://navitsky.org/lights/surefire_918fa_extended/07-DSC_7355.JPG)
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3616155
Posted by: jac2001
On: 12-04-2010 08:50 PM

---Quote (Originally by kellyglanzer)---
The following is my opinion only. Sometimes I just ramble, please feel free to disagree at will. 


I see tons of posts asking what P60 drop in to buy. I don't really know why but In the last couple weeks I have received several PM's asking my opinions as well . While I am the farthest thing from an authority on anything around here as I am still feeling like a tourist. I can however relate to not 
knowing what I need to make all this stuff work together. Heck a year ago I had no idea that people bored out flashlights or why I would want a $18 dollar battery which in turn leads to thirty or so batteries in different sizes in my closet...

While there is of course many options and I have continued to be inflicted with a deep burning desire to own at least one of all of them. In some cases I feel the need to own every config avail including tint variables in the case of Moddoo's Triple. By the way I still need an XRE triple of which I 
have missed two lately ARRGGG. sooo if anyone has one...

Now that several Quad's are making an appearance and trying to steal the limelight my bank account is getting smaller. I'm not sure it will ever recover.

The one thing I have learned is that not all the wonderful lights are super expensive. When I first saw a solarforce drop in I dismissed it because it was so cheap in my mind that "it couldn't be any good?"

I must say that of all the drop ins I personally have seen and used the bang for your buck award must go to the *Solarforce 320Lms XPG R5 4v-18v XPG-1M*. with a Price of US $12.50 it is what I would recommend to a friend. I ran it with one 18650 and it was bright with great throw. I tried it 
with two 18650's and was impressed by the gains achieved. I scrounged in my drawer for one more extension and when I added that third 18650 and clicked it on I was so very impressed by the great throw and beautiful spill.

I just had to mention this becaus ei was just so impressed by it performance for the money, Did I mention its $12.50 US?

Anyway I still have a whole list of drop ins I want to try out. Heck Nailbender has about eight or more I would like to try all by himself.
---End Quote---
*Hi all!
I purchased a Lighthound R5 1-mode drop-in online this week and was told by the rep that theirs is the Solarforce. Is this the same as the above highlighted drop-in, just 're-badged' if you will?
http://www.lighthound.com/Lighthoun...for-SureFire-and-other-Flashlights_p_965.html

I really do like it's output and beam profile, but I wish it wasn't quite so bluish. Not nearly as blue as the P60L that it replaced, but more toward the WC tint of my NB XRE R2 SMO and the tint of my Lx2.
Do Nailbender's XP-G SMO's throw as well as this 'cheap' drop-in?
J.
...so I wonder when Dave will get some XP-G S2's to build?:naughty:
*
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3619630
Posted by: Corvette6769
On: 12-08-2010 06:07 AM

---Quote (Originally by pae77)---
Thanks for the info. I ordered one of the 5 modes. Should be interesting to see what it's really like. Imagine it would get pretty hot on max.
---End Quote---

Me too. Ordered my *XM-L T6* drop-in Friday, December 3, 2010 from KD (even though the DX price is all but certain to be lower, but I am tired of waiting for the XM-L).

I bought the Cree XML T6 1000 Lumen 3.7V-4.2V 5-Mode LED Lamp SKU: S009843. 

They are currently offering 2 drop-in models and 5 complete flashlight models including UltraFire 501B and 502B with Cree XM-L T6.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3619651
Posted by: glenda17
On: 12-08-2010 06:52 AM

---Quote (Originally by Corvette6769)---
Me too. Ordered my *XM-L T6* drop-in Friday, December 3, 2010 from KD (even though the DX price is all but certain to be lower, but I am tired of waiting for the XM-L).
I bought the Cree XML T6 1000 Lumen 3.7V-4.2V 5-Mode LED Lamp SKU: S009843. 
They are currently offering 2 drop-in models and 5 complete flashlight models including UltraFire 501B and 502B with Cree XM-L T6.
---End Quote---

I couldn't find this dropin at deal extreme. But Kaidomain had the 1 mode (3v-18V version) version and an $11 2x18650 long P60 clone. I couldn't pass on. As soon as I placed my order it said "backordered" even though both items showed in stock as I was ordering.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3619663
Posted by: Dnalsi
On: 12-08-2010 07:31 AM
I'll have to try one of these for the SureFire C2 my son gave me.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3619877
Posted by: recDNA
On: 12-08-2010 12:40 PM
I wonder how long it will be before a decent manufacturer releases a P60 with XM-L?
I better go check the Nailbender thread! LOL
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3619902
Posted by: tandem
On: 12-08-2010 01:01 PM
Nailbender's standard line is he'll let us know when he can gain access to them. Until then specs / prices / availability aren't going to be forthcoming. Those getting them in small lots are at the end of the food chain I guess. Looking forward to seeing them show up. beamshots, we need 
beamshots!
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3620204
Posted by: recDNA
On: 12-08-2010 07:05 PM

---Quote (Originally by Dnalsi)---
I'll have to try one of these for the SureFire C2 my son gave me.
---End Quote---
You have a great son!
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3620605
Posted by: Aaron1100us
On: 12-09-2010 03:34 AM
I have a G2 and want to get the XM-L T6 led. Does anyone know where I can get a metal head for a stock G2? I did a google search and found nothing.
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Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3621120
Posted by: John N
On: 12-09-2010 03:49 PM
You should be able to use a Surefire Z44 or for something cheaper, a Solarforce head (available at Lighthound.com). Note you might just be better off getting a whole new metal light, like the Solarforce L2P HA3 w/forward clicky.
http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FB&s=7&id=112
-john

************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3621793
Posted by: Aaron1100us
On: 12-10-2010 08:43 AM
I just ordered the solarforce light and XM-L T 6 led. Still need to find a good 18650 battery that is 3000 mah
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3622012
Posted by: pae77
On: 12-10-2010 01:49 PM
Even though it's not 3000 mAh, I really like the protected Trustfire red/black/flame "true" 2400 mAh batteries that DX sells for about $9.50 per *pair* including shipping. That is such a great deal for what has so far in my experience proven to be very high quality 18650 batteries. And the 
capacity on the 4 I have received so far really is actually ~2400 mAh +/- a couple of mAhs. I have 2 of these that I've been using heavily for about 6 months and they are still performing like new. I recently purchased 2 more of them that so far appear to have the same high quality. 
At this bargain price for what has proved to be quite high quality 18650 cells and a great value, I would rather buy and use these batteries even though they are not 3,000 mAh. Also, I'm not 100% sure about this but iirc, higher mAh cells like the 3,000 mAh 18650's tend to either have or more 
quickly develop higher internal resistance.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3622017
Posted by: John N
On: 12-10-2010 01:58 PM
Yes, I think the 3000mah 18650s to date are most suitable to low drain applications. I think the poster should cruise on over to the battery section and investigate before they buy.
-john
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3622306
Posted by: Aaron1100us
On: 12-10-2010 08:25 PM
Another question. Is the single 1860 the way to go with the Solarforce light and XM-L T6 LED? Its the 3V to 18V version. One 18650 is 3.7v and two CR123 are 6V. Won't it be brighter with two CR123 than one 3.7V 18650?
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3622312
Posted by: pae77
On: 12-10-2010 08:33 PM

---Quote (Originally by Aaron1100us)---
Another question. Is the single 1860 the way to go with the Solarforce light and XM-L T6 LED? Its the 3V to 18V version. One 18650 is 3.7v and two CR123 are 6V. Won't it be brighter with two CR123 than one 3.7V 18650?
---End Quote---
You could use either 1 or more li-ion batteries with that drop in due to the wide voltage range it accepts. It will not necessarily be noticeably brighter with more than one cell. At least that has been my experience with other drop-ins that can take one or more li-ion cells. As the available 
voltage goes up, the current draw goes down, ime, so that may be why there isn't much of a noticeable difference. But my experience is limited to only a few different drop ins. Perhaps some get brighter with higher voltage. I just haven't seen that happen with the drop-ins I've experimented 
with. With more than one cell, however, you will get much longer runtime than you would with just one cell, (obviously, assuming the cells are all the same capacity).
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3622328
Posted by: Aaron1100us
On: 12-10-2010 08:51 PM
Ok, thanks. I just need to figure out which would have longer run time, two 1300mah CR123 or one 2400mah 18650? I don't really care about run time too much as this will just be a light for fun. But I would like the longest run time possible with this set up. I like the size of a two CR123 or 
single 18650 light, don't want any extensions to add more cells. At least with the 18650, it would be rechargeable. 
Does anyone have a light with this LED and a single 18650 or two CR123? Any beam shots of this LED? Wonder what it will be like compared to my TK45?
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3622360
Posted by: pae77
On: 12-10-2010 09:31 PM
In general, you are much safer using a single higher capacity li-ion cell rather than 2 or more cells. This is because it is very easy to over discharge the smaller cells and when they are in a multiple cell configuration that can be very dangerous, especially with li-ion cells. You can read about 
the potential dangers in the battery section of this forum. But aside from the dangers, there is also a high likelihood of damaging the smaller cells because li-ion cells suffer damage when they are over discharged.
In sum, you are much better off not having to worry about the potential issues and dangers of using multiple li-ion cells in a single flashlight if you don't have to. So I would strongly recommend using a single 18650 over two or more smaller cells.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3622637
Posted by: Aaron1100us
On: 12-11-2010 07:11 AM
Just ordered two protected trust fire 18650's and charger from DX. Hmm, now all I have to do is wait for everything to get here, can't wait to see what this light is going to be like.

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Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3628022
Posted by: tandem
On: 12-17-2010 02:29 PM
FYI Nailbender is now taking orders on a limited basis for XM-L drop-ins, driven at 3.1 amps. See Part 8 of Dave's sales thread (http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...l-white-XPG-XML-SST-50-90-P60-modules-(part-8)) for details.
(and prepare to wait in line!) 
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3628023
Posted by: Superorb
On: 12-17-2010 02:31 PM
Has there been a P60 dropin released recently that has a LOW low mode of less than 5L or is the Thrunite XP-G 2.7-4.2v still the lowest low mode dropin?
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Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3628047
Posted by: pae77
On: 12-17-2010 03:05 PM

---Quote (Originally by Superorb)---
Has there been a P60 dropin released recently that has a LOW low mode of less than 5L or is the Thrunite XP-G 2.7-4.2v still the lowest low mode dropin?
---End Quote---
Not that I am aware of, however, the XPG 5 mode drop-in I got from DX for about $14 shipped has the lowest low I have yet seen on a P60 style drop-in. I'm not sure of the lumen value although I would expect it probably is a bit more than 5 lumens (probably more like 10~20 lumen if I had to 
guess). Perhaps my example of that drop in is unusual but even the medium mode has fairly low output. It only uses about 450 mAh's of battery capacity to run continuously for 8 or 9 hours in medium mode. 
I haven't tested but I expect the low mode would probably consume about half as much capacity as the medium mode and possibly even less. If I remember, I'll test how much capacity it consumes on low mode after I get some of my other drop ins, which unfortunately developed defects 
within a few months of purchase, replaced. Ironically, it's that DX drop-in which has turned out to be the most reliable of my drop-ins so far (as well as having the lowest low), although I've heard reports that several others have not had such great luck with that model.
The XML drop in I ordered from Kai Domain has finally shipped so I hopefully will be receiving it in another week or two. It will be interesting to see how much it draws at the tail on high. KD didn't provide much info about it on their site.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3628075
Posted by: Superorb
On: 12-17-2010 03:35 PM

---Quote (Originally by pae77)---
The XML drop in I ordered from Kai Domain has finally shipped so I hopefully will be receiving it in another week or two. It will be interesting to see how much it draws at the tail on high. KD didn't provide much info about it on their site.
---End Quote---

XM-L = a new emitter?
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Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3628082
Posted by: tandem
On: 12-17-2010 03:38 PM
Nailbender's regulated multi-stage drivers all seem to have a 5% low on them and that seems about right in my experience - one XR-E module I have puts out roughly 10ish lumens on low.
However.... if low is more important to you than max, maybe you could approach this by having him build you a multi-level high CRI light (which start out with lower max brightness), possibly with one of the non-Cree emitters (maybe a P4 warm high CRI?).
If you've not already asked Dave what the lowest low combo of emitter and driver he has maybe that's an option to try.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3628085
Posted by: pae77
On: 12-17-2010 03:44 PM

---Quote (Originally by Superorb)---
XM-L = a new emitter?
---End Quote---
Yes, XML is the next new Cree emitter, i.e., replacing the XPG as the latest thing. Supposed to be approximately 20% more efficient than XPG and can be driven considerably harder and therefore can go brighter. Remains to be seen how they actually perform and what the tints are like. 
They are just starting to appear and become available in some drop ins and lights.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)#post3628098
Posted by: tandem
On: 12-17-2010 03:55 PM

---Quote (Originally by Superorb)---
XM-L = a new emitter?
---End Quote---
Yes, a new line in the Cree family of XLamps (from which the XP-G comes). A larger emitter it'll tend to be naturally more floody and have less throw than the XP-G, much as the XP-G tends to have less throw than an XR-E.
When driven lightly it might compete with the XP-G in lights but the big claim to fame is that it can be driven much harder. Check this post out for a comparison of output between XP-G and XM-L at various currents 
(http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ally-official-Cree-XM-L&p=3622906#post3622906). The XP-G max forward current is 1.5 Amp while the XM-L max forward current is 3A. The SST50 max forward current is 5A. At ~ 3A apparently the XM-L will approach or meet 
the SST-50 in output, if I've read that correctly. Whatever the on-the-ground truth is, this is the next evolutionary step up from an XP-G for increased output in a P60 module without going to much greater expense.
Here are some beam shots comparing XM-L vs SST-50 (http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?305127-Cree-XM-L-vs-SST-50). Scroll to the bottom of this post for two XM-L beamshots 
(http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...90-P60-modules-(part-8)&p=3627724#post3627724).
Some have described it as a "mini SST". Speaking of that... actually, the really big claim to fame is not just that it can be driven harder than an XP-G but that it is about the same price as an XP-G whereas the SST50 and SST90 emitters are much more expensive than the XM-L. Cree is 
pricing them aggressively either because they can due to production costs, or because they want to (to hurt Luminus) or a bit of both. The XM-L is less than 1/4 the price of a SST-50 which means it can show up in inexpensive lights readily.

************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3632662
Posted by: orbital
On: 12-22-2010 01:24 PM
+
KD one mode XM-L drop-in {in a CL1H}
the op reflector it came with is kinda floody;
put it in a SMO reflector, better overall hotspot.

I'll try several different reflectors, including my DBS V1
yes,,its bright & the tint is surprisingly neutral :thumbsup:
edit: *Did a bounce test w/ SSC P7 driven almost 3A & this XM-L is nearly identical,
for doing a quick comparison,..this XM-L is one bright drop-in.*
Image: http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/2649/p1010427c.jpg (http://img571.imageshack.us/i/p1010427c.jpg/)
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3632733
Posted by: pae77
On: 12-22-2010 02:42 PM
Glad to hear that the tint is good (i.e., close to neutral). Here's some more info about the KD XM-L 5 mode drop-in that comes from a review a customer recently posted on the KD site (finally some useful info on KD's site :shakehead):
"*NICE & BRIGHT*
*
Strengths: *Really is a Cree XM-L LED. Driver draws 2.6A on High and remembers the last mode after the light is off for 2 seconds or more. Puts out significantly more light than a XP-G with a larger hotspot and a little more throw. Compares well to MC-E and P7 LED's, but without the 
donut hole or + in the beam. Modes are well separated with Medium at about 35% of High and Low at 5% of High. Mode sequence is High-Med-Low-Strobe-SOS. I got 40 minutes of runtime on a 2400mAh protected gray Trustfire battery, which is better than I expected. Current draw at 
the tail went from 2.63A at 4.17V to 2.40A at 3.85V and 1.82A at 3.69V (battery voltage measured at rest).
*Weaknesses:* Not 1000 lumens. Maybe 500-600 lumens since the driver is drawing about 2.6A (and delivering less than that to the LED) and the XM-L needs 3A to come close to 1,000 lumens (and you still won't get that much out of the front of the light). The board is not glued to the 
pill, but there is thermal paste there at least. As long as the reflector is screwed on, it shouldn't be a problem. Don't care for strobe or SOS, but the strobe is killer and the SOS has correct spelling. It's a little expensive for a drop-in, but this is a brand new LED and the price may come 
down eventually.
*Summary:* This is a good drop-in that offers more flood than throw (you will need a bigger reflector to focus the light from the big LED). Make sure you have good heat sinking, because it is using at least 11 watts initially." (Emphasis added.)

So, glad to hear it sounds pretty good and looking forward to getting the one I ordered to stick in a L2P or L2i (powered by a Trustfire protected (red/black/flame) 2400 mAh 18650), with a multi coated glass lens (also from KD). Should be pretty nice. Will be interesting to see how hot it 
gets on high.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3632761
Posted by: pounder
On: 12-22-2010 03:12 PM

---Quote (Originally by orbital)---
+
KD one mode XM-L drop-in {in a CL1H}
the op reflector it came with is kinda floody;
put it in a SMO reflector, better overall hotspot.
gunna try several different reflectors, including my DBS V1
yes,,its bright & the tint is surprisingly neutral :thumbsup:
Image: http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/2649/p1010427c.jpg (http://img571.imageshack.us/i/p1010427c.jpg/)
---End Quote---
what smooth reflector did you use and where dod you obtain it? thanks
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3632835
Posted by: orbital
On: 12-22-2010 04:37 PM

---Quote (Originally by pounder)---
what smooth reflector did you use and where dod you obtain it? thanks
---End Quote---
+
Its a standard P60 smooth reflector, I have a couple left over from the xr-e days.
When I said the tint is neutral, what I was saying is that it wasn't cool/blueish, 
I have zero interest in cool tints.
I can't remember being as exited about an emitter as the xm-l 
they are very nice!~
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3632861
Posted by: pounder
On: 12-22-2010 05:07 PM
nice so a standard xr-e reflector will fit..that helps a ton thanks..

I have the 5 mode xm-l T6 from kai coming in the RQ 7 host..i'm hoping it's the same drop-in as the stand alone module..the host for 5$ more is a bit of a gamble, but I have my L2p that I can use the module in if the host is garbage..
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3633042
Posted by: pae77
On: 12-22-2010 08:52 PM
Well perfect timing, the mailman delivered my XML drop-in from KD today. I am very impressed with it. I basically agree with everything stated in the review I quoted a few posts back above. The spacing of the Hi, Med and Lo modes is excellent and the percentages given in the review quoted 
above seem correct to me. The low is very low for a P60 type drop-in, which is nice as I'm one who likes to have a very low low. Also the tint on mine seems to be a bit towards the neutral end of the spectrum as well, although still quite white compared to a true neutral. But there is nothing 
wrong with the tint, i.e., no odd colors. 
But the most amazing thing to me so far is just how huge the hot spot is. It's much bigger than those from any of the other emitters I'm familiar with (XPG, XRE, XPE). It's a quantum leap forward, imo, to be able to get an emitter this bright with such a big hot spot for just slightly more than a 
more standard Cree emitter such as an XPG or XRE.
The XM-L emitter itself is quite large. To help show the relative size of it, here's a photo of the XM-L emitter in the KD (5 mode) drop-in on the right, next to an XPG emitter in its drop-in on the left. (The bezels of both lights are the same and are lined up with each other, so both emitters are 
about the same distance away from the camera).
Image: http://i51.tinypic.com/21omev.jpg 
Again, I'm extremely impressed and I feel this XM-L emitter basically makes XPG obsolete. Looking forward to night falling here (still a few hours away) so I can really see what this new emitter can do.

************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3633362
Posted by: michaelmcgo
On: 12-23-2010 05:53 AM
How does the build quality look on these lights?
Could you post a beamshot and if possible take amp readings at the tail please.....
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3633384
Posted by: pae77
On: 12-23-2010 06:35 AM

---Quote (Originally by michaelmcgo)---
How does the build quality look on these lights?
Could you post a beamshot and if possible take amp readings at the tail please.....
---End Quote---
Assuming you are referring to the KD XML T6 5 mode drop in: Can't post beam shot now, sorry.
Some tail draw readings were listed in review quoted in post #1005. Build quality appears to be excellent on my particular example. It also has a nice tint that is white but tending a bit towards neutral. Got about 2.7 hours runtime in continuous operation in the medium mode and the light 
stayed just slightly warm (not at all hot) while tail standing in medium. Reviewer quoted above got about 40 minutes runtime on max. It gets a bit hot if left running in max. Haven't had enough time to test the runtime on low but it's looking good so far.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3635323
Posted by: cy
On: 12-25-2010 06:44 PM
just ordered this .... we'll see how it does

---Quote (Originally by pae77)---
Not that I am aware of, however, the XPG 5 mode drop-in I got from DX for about $14 shipped has the lowest low I have yet seen on a P60 style drop-in. I'm not sure of the lumen value although I would expect it probably is a bit more than 5 lumens (probably more like 10~20 lumen if I had to 
guess). Perhaps my example of that drop in is unusual but even the medium mode has fairly low output. It only uses about 450 mAh's of battery capacity to run continuously for 8 or 9 hours in medium mode. 
I haven't tested but I expect the low mode would probably consume .
---End Quote---
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3635335
Posted by: pae77
On: 12-25-2010 07:03 PM

---Quote (Originally by cy)---
just ordered this .... we'll see how it does
---End Quote---
I hope you get as good a sample as I did.
I just decided to give myself a Xmas gift and ordered another of the KD XM-L T6 5 mode drop-ins. The design and workmanship on the first one I got seems very good just judging by what I can see from the outside as well as by its performance. For example, the LED is perfectly centered in 
the reflector and the levels are spaced really well. High is really bright with short runtime, med is pretty bright with decent runtime (just under 3 hours), and low provides a still useful amount of light with quite extended runtime (considerably more than 10 hours with a 2400 mAh 18650). I still 
haven't had a chance to find out just how long it will really run on low. 
Anyway, I like the first one I got so much, I decided to go for another (which will knock one of my Solarforce XPG (0-4.2 volt) 3 mode drop-ins out of a host, unless I buy yet another host for the new XM-L drop-in. But I don't feel like buying another host right now as I already have 4 Solarforce 
bodies. I guess it won't hurt to have a spare XPG drop-in lying around.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3635449
Posted by: sfca
On: 12-25-2010 11:27 PM
Anyone tried the 3.1A (or 2.8A) XM-L drop-in from Nailbender yet?
Happy Christmas! :wave:
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3636540
Posted by: Richwouldnt
On: 12-27-2010 12:12 PM
Below is a link to a thread I started on availability of colored LED P60 drop-ins. I have found sources for Red, Green, Purple, Yellow and Orange LED P60 modules. I noted via a CPF site google search that there have been a number of people looking for colored flashlight beams and they 
seem to be pretty scarce other than IR and UV varieties.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/305899

There used to be a number of sources for colored LED bulbs for Maglites but they are discontinued.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3637333
Posted by: Corvette6769
On: 12-28-2010 07:31 AM

---Quote (Originally by pae77)---
Fair enough, however, I think the XM-L will rapidly become the leading emitter choice for P60 drop-ins which was the context in which my comment was made. I could see how an XPG could be a preferable emitter choice in some smaller flashlights with smaller reflectors and powered by lower 
capacity batteries. But in a P60 drop-in and lights with similar sized reflectors, I don't see much, if any advantage that the XPG has over the XM-L. Even assuming one is not looking for maximum lumen output, (and after all there's no law that says the XM-L has to be driven to provide maximum 
lumen output), I suspect it will prove to be more efficient than the XPG at most, if not all lumen levels. So, if it proves to be more efficient, has a bigger hot spot, at least equal if not better throw, has a better tint (at least imo, although I realize opinions likely will differ on this, but I suspect the 
majority of people will prefer the tint of the XML over the XPG), I don't see much, if any advantage to the XPG over the XM-L, at least in the context of P60 drop-ins. That is unless one prefers their drop in to have a smaller hot spot and less floody beam (but not necessarily better throw) and a 
cooler white tint, at the cost of less efficiency, along with less potential maximum lumen output.
---End Quote---
I agree 100%.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3637607
Posted by: phantom23
On: 12-28-2010 02:45 PM
I disagree. Floody beam is not very popular, emitter itself is 50% more expensive, P60 drop-ins have poor heatsinking which means lower currents. Nicer tint has nothing to do with emitter type, there are nice XP-G and blue XM-L tints.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3638165
Posted by: old4570
On: 12-29-2010 05:59 AM
yeah , XML rocks in a p60 host ...
So far only have one p60 drop in with XML , waiting for more parts so I can build more
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3638179
Posted by: Corvette6769
On: 12-29-2010 06:45 AM

---Quote (Originally by phantom23)---
I disagree. Floody beam is not very popular, emitter itself is 50% more expensive, P60 drop-ins have poor heatsinking which means lower currents. Nicer tint has nothing to do with emitter type, there are nice XP-G and blue XM-L tints.
---End Quote---
Personally I prefer a flood beam, especially as powerful as the XM-L T6 which out-throws all but my EagleTac T100C2 (and then not by much) = EagleTac good for 100-yard+ night rifle shooting, XM-L T6 best for everything else.

50% more expensive emitter for 100% more light output, I will take that deal every time!....especially in this day and age of $5.00 bags of potato chips. 

I have not read any reports of blue XM-L tints and if there are, they certainly would be the exception rather than the rule. 

Overwhelmingly, all early reports share my similar experience in that Cree has delivered the perfect LED exactly as they promised back in April. I can not wait for the XM-L U2 bin and beyond.

I have not heard even one negative comment by anyone who actually has a XM-L T6 LED. Those of us who have them all seem to be unanimous in that we love them and hate to see the sun come up.

My only surprise is that KD beat the rest of the world by such a large margin to get the XM-L T6 to market. Other than Cutter offering bare emitters a week earlier, KD was the first to market with bare emitters and emitters on both 21mm & 16mm stars (all for under $10.00), two drop-ins, and 
seven different flashlight models to choose from.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3638483
Posted by: pae77
On: 12-29-2010 02:32 PM
I very much agree with the points made in the previous post by Corvette6769. Plus while 50% more in cost sounds like a lot when expressed in percentage terms, we are really only talking about the rather small dollar difference between ~$11 to 15 for inexpensive XPG drop-ins currently 
available at DX, Solarforce, etc., and ~$18 to $22 for the inexpensive XML-T6 based drop-ins currently available at those prices at KD. (And currently there is a "new and hot" premium built into the XML-T6 price, that probably will go away eventually and the price will likely come down even 
closer to where XPG's are today). 
Anyway, the performance difference is so absolutely stunning that those few extra dollars that the XML costs seems completely irrelevant to me (and I bet to anyone else who has tried one). And the XML simply seems like a stunning bargain at those prices considering how it performs.
Last night I took my Solarforce L2P loaded with the XML 5 mode drop in and tried to see how far it could throw on max. It was lighting up the top floors of a high rise that was quite a far distance away, although I really don't know how far it actually was. But I really didn't expect the XML to be 
able to throw that far. So it seems that no longer are flood and throw mutually exclusive i.e., now we can have a broad floody beam and excellent throw at the same time from a single emitter. And in a P60 no less, which certainly is not a design that is optimized for maximum throw. It will 
surely be very interesting to see what the XML can do in a large reflector design optimized for throw.
Anyway, as I've said before, I really think the more apt comparison is, rather than compare the XML to a single XPG, to compare the performance of the XML T6 with the performance of those rather expensive drop-ins that are made with 3 XPG emitters combined in a single drop-in. Yes! I'm 
really suggesting that the XML really is that amazing, (imo, of course)! And, although I haven't tried one of those (and now probably never will), I have read a lot about them and seen beamshots, etc., so I think I have a pretty good idea of what those triple XPG modules are capable of. And, 
when one considers that those triple XPG's cost over $100 (unless the price now starts to come down as a likely result of the availability of the XML), suddenly the ~$18 to $22 current cost for an XML drop-in, (which on max probably puts out a very similarly powerful wall of light with a similarly 
big beam pattern as those triple XPG's), starts to seem even more reasonable for the stunning level of performance it provides.
I really am looking forward to the new class of XML equipped lights that will hopefully soon begin to appear and especially the day when I can purchase an ultra compact single 18650 Zebralight (similar to the SC60) loaded with an XML emitter (they probably will call it an SC62). That will be 
simply amazing to have that kind of power and efficiency in such a compact form. I predict that 2011 is going to be an especially great year for LED flashlights, imo.
Im tempted ...
selling it in the marketplace.
-john

rive level like 2.5A or less.
-john
---End Quote---

************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3660835
Posted by: recDNA
On: 01-21-2011 04:02 PM

---Quote (Originally by cy)---
has anyone tested any single stage XML drop-in yet? 
need to know what current single stage is being driven at. 
with multimode being driven at 2.5amp is not a big deal... 
most of the time drop-in will be operating in mid to low range anyways. 
P-60 drop-in used in a weapons light has to be a single stage. 
creating too much heat at 2.5amp+ = failure ... which of course is not acceptable. 
runtime is not as big a factor with weapon lights. reliability is everything!
---End Quote---
I have a potted 2.8 amp Nailbender 3 mode and a Thrunite single mode XM-L on the way. I'll let you know.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3661069
Posted by: MechanicalMan
On: 01-21-2011 08:22 PM

---Quote (Originally by recDNA)---
I have a potted 2.8 amp Nailbender 3 mode and a Thrunite single mode XM-L on the way. I'll let you know.
---End Quote---
That's great. I've been wanting to hear how the Thrunite single mode compares to one of the other (higher amp) XM-L drop-ins.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3661088
Posted by: cy
On: 01-21-2011 09:01 PM
thanks... that'll save me from doing the same

---Quote (Originally by recDNA)---
I have a potted 2.8 amp Nailbender 3 mode and a Thrunite single mode XM-L on the way. I'll let you know.
---End Quote---
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3661845
Posted by: Cypher_Aod
On: 01-22-2011 07:25 PM

---Quote (Originally by asot)---
If you think you can trust SolarForce, wait a few days...
They announced a _Single Mode_ XM-L dropin (in their facebook page) to be on sale about 22-24th of January, in a price close to $20
*
Quoting: * Single mode, compatible to surefire 6P G2 and solarforce L2 series, more than 700 Lumens, 3.0-6.0V, 2xCR123A (3.0v) or 18650 x 1 pc will be perfect
---End Quote---

when this is released where can/should one purchase it?
i'm not up-to-scratch with the dealers of new and fancy photon-throwing tech yet 
<edit>
Ah, i looked up the solarforce facebook page, where i was linked to the solarforce website/store where i purchased the dropin and an Empty L2 host 
now we play the waiting game...
and then we start lighting up other planets XD
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3661870
Posted by: pae77
On: 01-22-2011 08:19 PM
I just got my second 5 mode XM-L T6 drop-in from KD (shipped on Jan 6). This one has a slightly less neutral tint than the first one I got and the LED is slightly off center, but I don't think it is enough to matter. Otherwise seems to be working well so far, as far as I can tell. The first one I got 
was perfect though.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3662128
Posted by: CampingLED
On: 01-23-2011 01:29 AM

---Quote (Originally by Cypher_Aod)---
when this is released where can/should one purchase it?
i'm not up-to-scratch with the dealers of new and fancy photon-throwing tech yet 
<edit>
Ah, i looked up the solarforce facebook page, where i was linked to the solarforce website/store where i purchased the dropin and an Empty L2 host 
now we play the waiting game...
and then we start lighting up other planets XD
---End Quote---
They were offered for sale at KD on the 4th of January. ProductId=11150. Bought the RQ 07 from them and it is a nice light.

************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3663063
Posted by: UltraMagnus
On: 01-24-2011 03:39 AM
I don't know if you are trying to keep the first post updated, but FYI a lot of the DX and KD links are broken, and the p60 host post is very out of date.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3663383
Posted by: CampingLED
On: 01-24-2011 01:51 PM
I think that it will become a very labour intensive task to keep lists like these updated all the time. That is why the OP needs people like us to list specific problems and to give the OP a fair chance to update the list. Just today two new drop-ins were released at dx 55025 and 55026. I may be 
the first person to order 55025 (done it about an hour ago). So, two more to add to the list.

************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3664302
Posted by: cy
On: 01-25-2011 12:01 PM
seems very few are interested in single stage drop-ins like what's needed for weapons lights... everyone is going nuts with drive currents. new emitters may take the heat .... but runtimes goes down the drain. 
we've long passed the point where ... amount of light delivered is no longer an issue. 
for Surefire forend weapons light ... single stage XPG driven at 1amp puts out almost too much light. 
hot spot almost blinds operator from bounce, which means BG would be BLIND from raw lumens. 
not finding any single stage XML driven at 1amp or less... may have to build my own.
efficiency gains is what I'm after, not more lumens.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3664367
Posted by: pae77
On: 01-25-2011 01:07 PM
I would think the wider illuminated field that one would get with an XM-L would also be useful in a weapon light, but that's just a guess as I've never used a weapon light to date.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3664422
Posted by: g.p.
On: 01-25-2011 02:34 PM
Just got my 5 mode XML from Kaidomain (http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=11096). It makes for a real nice light in my Solarforce L2P. I'll have to test it outside at night, but in the basement it appears to be much brighter than my TK15. Lots of flood too. Just got to see 
how it throws. It does get hot on high mode faster than any other light I have though.

---Quote (Originally by cy)---
not finding any single stage XML driven at 1amp or less... may have to build my own.
efficiency gains is what I'm after, not more lumens.
---End Quote---
Why don't you just use a multi-mode drop-in on one of the lower modes? The XML that I jst got is spaced pretty nicely. It always comes on in the last mode, so you wouldn't have to cycle through modes ever.
I have no idea what is required of a weapons light, so please excuse my ignorance if that wouldn't work for some obvious reason.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3664428
Posted by: Motodeficient
On: 01-25-2011 02:41 PM
the fear is that the recoil will change modes on the light.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3664464
Posted by: g.p.
On: 01-25-2011 03:18 PM
I suppose that would suck!
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3664477
Posted by: pae77
On: 01-25-2011 03:33 PM
Just guessing but I think the recoil might cause it to change modes inappropriately and also these inexpensive drop-ins are probably not built tough enough to survive being subjected to the recoil on a long term basis. 
Edit: I see someone beat me to posting about the mode changing.
However, if those things wouldn't be a problem, then the medium mode would seem about perfect, although it is still quite bright @ ~300 lumens. But I would think the larger floody illuminated field that the XM-L provides would be helpful in locating targets. And I think it would be pretty hard for 
anything to hide from the Hi mode which is kind of like a powerful search light.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3664517
Posted by: John N
On: 01-25-2011 04:26 PM
There are a number of reasons in addition to spontanious mode changes -- for example, you may wish to use the lights in brief bursts. This use pattern is likely to change modes even though you didn't intend to. There is also a fumble-factor where you don't want to be dorking around with 
modes. You want to KISS.
Cy, seems like NB woulf make you a 1A XML. 
Although, at 1A, not sure you are really going to notice the efficency bump. 
Probably be a nice big hotspot tho.
YMMV.
-john
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3664616
Posted by: old4570
On: 01-25-2011 06:40 PM
There is a single mode 1.4A XM-L drop in @ Dx , which might be just right for those seeking a balanced Drop in , Medium current - good output + good run time .
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3664797
Posted by: Blitzwing
On: 01-25-2011 11:23 PM
I killed a single mode Solarforce XP-G with the 12g the other night. Only about 10 shots and it died. TBH I wasn't a fan of the XP-G anyway....

************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3665136
Posted by: John N
On: 01-26-2011 11:02 AM
I wouldn't be overly inclined to trust these inexpensive drop-ins for this use. I'd want something potted, and preferably a configuration that does not use an outer spring. The Malkoff, Titanium Engineering (Moddoo/Overready) come to mind, and Nailbender (potted, but with spring).
-john
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3665148
Posted by: John N
On: 01-26-2011 11:13 AM
BTW, I've been meaning to post a picture of my failed KD XML 1-mode drop-in. Not because it failed, but to show how well it was thermally bonded (sorry for the fuzzy picture).
Image: http://navitsky.org/lights/kd-xml-1mode/IMG_1041-800x600.jpg 
[FULL SIZE] (http://navitsky.org/lights/kd-xml-1mode/IMG_1041.JPG)
I don't think this has anything to do with my unit not working correctly, but it doesn't give me any warm fuzzies about the long term reliability.
Of course, this may not be representative of most of the units, but... Well, it seemed noteworthy.
-john
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3665347
Posted by: recDNA
On: 01-26-2011 03:22 PM

---Quote (Originally by cy)---
has anyone tested any single stage XML drop-in yet? 
need to know what current single stage is being driven at. 
with multimode being driven at 2.5amp is not a big deal... 
most of the time drop-in will be operating in mid to low range anyways. 
P-60 drop-in used in a weapons light has to be a single stage. 
creating too much heat at 2.5amp+ = failure ... which of course is not acceptable. 
runtime is not as big a factor with weapon lights. reliability is everything!
---End Quote---

I got my single mode Thrunite 1.5 amp XM-L drop in today. I kept the spring on for the new 6P I traded for. Nice tight fit - no need nor room for copper. Single mode is perfect with a Z41 tailcap. I am actually amazed how much brighter it is than my R5 drop ins. Got lucky in the tint lottery 
too! Very nice neutral white with just a hint of yellow in the hotspot. I really cannot believe I can get this much light at 1.5 amps. I would imagine my 2.8 amp Nailbender is going to blaze based on what the 1.5 amp one does..
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3665377
Posted by: pae77
On: 01-26-2011 03:57 PM
Anyone know how hard it would be to recenter an XM-L emitter and what would be involved? The LED on my second KD XM-L drop-in is just off center enough to bother me and if it's not too difficult, I might like to try to recenter it.
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3665388
Posted by: John N
On: 01-26-2011 04:09 PM
You'd need to pry the LED star from the pill and re-apply. 
If I were to do this, I'd probably unsolder the leds from the star, pry it off, clean everything up, re-apply thermal adhesive center it in the reflector, let the adhesive dry, then re-solder the leds.
Note even though the star on my KD (see post# 1118) had adhesive on less than 50% of it, it was pretty hard to get off. The adhesive really does work.
-john
************
Re: P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/217252#post3665771
Posted by: Blitzwing
On: 01-26-2011 11:03 PM
My Ultrafire XM-L is a tad off centre also. Though it appears as though it's stuck down with white silicone...

*==============================================================================*
*Beginning here are instant email notifications I received (all times are CST). There may have been other replies that I did not receive because further notifications would not be sent until I visited the forum again.*
*==============================================================================*
Thursday, January 27, 2011 9:44 AM
orbital posted:
***************
+
I edited my post # 1078
the Dereelight 3SM XM-L is 3.4~9V
***************
Friday, January 28, 2011 2:11 PM
recDNA posted:
***************
I was asked to compare the Thrunite 1.5 amp single mode XM-L P60 to the Nailbender potted 2.8 amp XM-L P60 w smooth reflector.
As expected the LOP of the Thrunite gives it a nicer looking beam for white wall hunting. That's my fault for selecting the smooth reflector in the Nailbender. Many times in larger LED's the LOP throws just a s far. No way to know without buying a Nailbender with each reflector. Thrunite is 
slightly dimmer than the 2.8 amp Nailbender especially in the spill area. The hotspots appear very close in brightness although there is no way to know how much of that is from my eye accommodating the brightness. On the other hand even when both beams are projected on the same wall 
at the same distance I see little difference. My Nailbender SST-50 at 2.8 amps actually looked a little brighter than the XM-L to me but it has a bigger hotspot so we're comparing apples to grapefruit.
I'm certainly happy with both of them.
***************
Saturday, January 29, 2011 4:33 AM
Richwouldnt posted:
***************
---Quote (Originally by John N)---
I wouldn't be overly inclined to trust these inexpensive drop-ins for this use. I'd want something potted, and preferably a configuration that does not use an outer spring. The Malkoff, Titanium Engineering (Moddoo/Overready) come to mind, and Nailbender (potted, but with spring).
-john
---End Quote---

As a hobbyist machinist I just made up an aluminum adapter to do a springless installation of a Dereelight XM-L 2.5 amp 3 mode drop-in into a Solarforce L2X Extended host. I measured the parts and machined the insert to fill in all gaps and did the assembly with thermal compound on all 
surfaces. Running on high the light and module now get warm but not really hot. Prior to the adapter the drop-in reflector was .030" smaller in diameter than the host cavity the drop-in fits into. That, plus the spring, basically guaranteed lousy heat transfer between the drop-in and light body.

I also have the Thrunite 3 mode XM-L drop-in which is driven at 1.5 amps. It does not overheat even without the modifications done for the Dereelight drop-in installation. After 15 minutes of running the drop-in was only warm to the touch when removed from the light. In contrast before doing 
the modification the 2.5 amp Dereelight XM-L drop-in was HOT after only a couple of minutes running at maximum.

Need for using a spring with a P60 style drop-in is as much a matter of the host chosen as the drop-in itself. The Dereelight host does not use a drop-in spring as there is no room for one with either Dereelight or Thrunite drop-ins.
***************
Saturday, January 29, 2011 9:08 AM
neverGUP posted:
***************
It sounds good. Any pictures of modifications?
***************
Tuesday, February 01, 2011 2:22 PM
notsobrite posted:
***************
recDNA- 
any idea about run time for the thrunite single mode xm-l?
***************
Tuesday, February 01, 2011 6:26 PM
recDNA posted:
***************
Only the standard formula total sum mAh of batteries/1500 mA
***************
Tuesday, February 01, 2011 9:45 PM
fyrstormer posted:
***************
I have a 3-mode Dereelight 2.5A SST-50 drop-in in my Fireworm F1. I assembled the pill and reflector with Arctic Silver 5 in the threads, and I put a bit more at the base of the reflector where it butts against the shoulder inside the light. Titanium being the passable heat-conductor that it is, the 
heat of the light gets too hot to hold comfortably before the tail feels noticeably warm, but it's good enough for my usage. Wrapping the sides of the reflector in aluminum foil is a good idea, I'll have to give that a try. I wonder if there would be a noticeable decrease in the aluminum's 
effectiveness if I used sticky aluminum tape instead of loose foil? Hmm, things to try...
..what's really going to be fun is when I put my 3-mode Dereelight 1.2A XP-G drop-in into the G2 I've ordered. :devil: Yes, I know, Nitrolon is a heat insulator, but I don't really care. At 1.2A, the LED should run efficiently enough to allow for several minutes of high-mode operation before it needs 
a rest, and that's all I'm likely to ever use that light for. The question that's running through my head on that one is, is there a type of lense glass that is best at allowing radiant IR to pass through? I know the stock Borofloat lense will withstand the heat just fine, but if I can get a lense that 
allows the heat to pass through as unhindered as possible, that would be much better.
***************
Wednesday, February 09, 2011 9:23 AM
shao.fu.tzer posted:
***************
---Quote (Originally by John N)---
BTW, I've been meaning to post a picture of my failed KD XML 1-mode drop-in. Not because it failed, but to show how well it was thermally bonded (sorry for the fuzzy picture).
---End Quote---
That's atrocious! Surely a product of child labor.. hehe.. That's one of the many reasons I stay clear of that place...
***************
Monday, February 21, 2011 3:55 PM
srfreddy posted:
***************
---Quote (Originally by recDNA)---
I was asked to compare the Thrunite 1.5 amp single mode XM-L P60 to the Nailbender potted 2.8 amp XM-L P60 w smooth reflector.
As expected the LOP of the Thrunite gives it a nicer looking beam for white wall hunting. That's my fault for selecting the smooth reflector in the Nailbender. Many times in larger LED's the LOP throws just a s far. No way to know without buying a Nailbender with each reflector. Thrunite is 
slightly dimmer than the 2.8 amp Nailbender especially in the spill area. The hotspots appear very close in brightness although there is no way to know how much of that is from my eye accommodating the brightness. On the other hand even when both beams are projected on the same wall 
at the same distance I see little difference. My Nailbender SST-50 at 2.8 amps actually looked a little brighter than the XM-L to me but it has a bigger hotspot so we're comparing apples to grapefruit.
A sphere of course tells the real truth. To my eyes the 1.5 amp XM-L looks MUCH brighter than the 1.5 amp XP-G yet BigC's sphere showed little difference. The 2.8 amp XM-L should look MUCH brighter yet it doesn't. Just goes to show how bad our eyes are at judging these things.
I'm certainly happy with both of them.
---End Quote---

Can you tell a difference with ceiling bounce? Beamshots?
***************
Monday, February 21, 2011 8:51 PM
recDNA posted:
***************
The XM-L looks brighter than the XP-G in ceiling bounce as well. My camera auto adjusts so I can't really show differences in brightness unless I show two beamshots simultaneously.
***************
Tuesday, February 22, 2011 6:45 PM
srfreddy posted:
***************
Between your two differently driven XMLs?
***************
Wednesday, February 23, 2011 2:09 PM
Hedgehog posted:
***************
Is there anything out there similar to the Malkoff M60WF? He doesn't make them anymore. I'd also like something more budget-friendly with the understanding I might compromise on quality.
Warm tint
Floody
Single-mode
***************
Wednesday, February 23, 2011 3:30 PM
recDNA posted:
***************
Never tried running Nailbender for long on high - too bright and I know it will overheat eventually. I don't like heat and li ion batteries in the same sentence.
***************


----------



## bshanahan14rulz

I've noticed a lot of lambertian emitters in what look to be generic KD/DX XR-series drop-in blanks. Does this seem to work fine, and what seems to be the optimum focal point? Thanks!


----------



## deeuubee

Anybody know why they went with a 3-6V driver instead of a 4.2-8.4v driver on the XM-L drop ins?

It would have allowed the use of r123's. Am I missing something here?

Second question: I see P60 drop-ins for Solarforce L2 only and ones that fit Solarforce L2 and Surefire6P/G2. What is the difference?


----------



## srfreddy

The 6P's have tighter tolarances, as they were the original hosts, and Solarforce had to slightly change the dimensions to not infringe international import laws.


----------



## orbital

+

Lighthound has a low voltage Solarforce XM-L drop-in, 1-mode

.. could be a good general use output


----------



## kojoti

Just received 2 p60 dropins from dereelight, actually ordered one and a loose 3sm xm-l pill for my aspherical head, but they gave me a free OP p60 reflector to go with that, next to the smo 3sm xm-l p60 dropin. Never had contact with these guys and you find a nice note on second dropin saying "op reflector as gift". How cool is that! Both the OP and SMO look great, alltho it's still not quiet dark yet here. When it comes to lumens it looks close to, if not, brighter than the m91 and alot more throw with a nice tight hotspot. They are rated 3.4 - 9 V and drive at 2.5a

Ordered them directly from their website and they send it from Hong Kong. I ordered my dbs v3 xm-l awhile ago with them aswell, along with an asperical head without pill. Package arrived 2,5 weeks later in the Netherlands with everything there including with an aspherical head with their standard xr-e r2 pill inside . Dereelight makes nice lights and their service is out of this world, the dropins wont disappoint you.


----------



## wellu

I ordered my first P60 host in the form of L2X extended. What dropin do you recommend to use with 2x18650 to give maximum amount of light? I have some multimode lights already, for this I just want something with 1 mode -> full throttle. P7? SST-50? XM-L? This picture really opened my eyes. I want something like that. What should I get?


----------



## orbital

wellu said:


> I ordered my first P60 host in the form of L2X extended. What dropin do you recommend to use with 2x18650 to give maximum amount of light? I have some multimode lights already, for this I just want something with 1 mode -> full throttle. P7? SST-50? XM-L? This picture really opened my eyes. I want something like that. What should I get?



+

For your 2x 18650 voltage, 
a Dereelight 2.5Amp XM-L _1-mode_ pill & xr-e reflector from Jay at *flashlightconnection*

XM-L @ 2.5A is plenty bright


----------



## Wiggle

Can you guys help me pick a dropin based on the following criteria:

Emitter: XP-G neutral white to pure white tint
Modes: 2 or 3, with memory. High at least 250 OTFL, low less than 20 lumens
Flat regulation for most of runtime with graceful low battery (ie blinking warning, switch to low or a taper, no sudden lights out).
Price: $40 USD or less
Optimized for single Li-ion use, don't want or need voltage input above 4.2V.

Would be nice but not essential:
Mode memory that "latches fast", ie good for forward clicky use if you know what I mean
LOP or SMO reflector, I'm willing to give up a perfect beam for a little more throw
Current regulated low rather than PWM, if PWM a high frequency.

Will be used in a C2 /McClicky on 17670 and 18650 once I have it bored out.


----------



## candle lamp

Wiggle said:


> Can you guys help me pick a dropin based on the following criteria:
> 
> Emitter: XP-G neutral white to pure white tint
> Modes: 2 or 3, with memory. High at least 250 OTFL, low less than 20 lumens
> Flat regulation for most of runtime with graceful low battery (ie blinking warning, switch to low or a taper, no sudden lights out).
> Price: $40 USD or less
> Optimized for single Li-ion use, don't want or need voltage input above 4.2V.
> 
> Would be nice but not essential:
> Mode memory that "latches fast", ie good for forward clicky use if you know what I mean
> LOP or SMO reflector, I'm willing to give up a perfect beam for a little more throw
> Current regulated low rather than PWM, if PWM a high frequency.
> 
> Will be used in a C2 /McClicky on 17670 and 18650 once I have it bored out.


 
I'm not sure if you want a cool white or neutral white.

Maybe, You'll be able to find one _*here*_.


----------



## seattlite

Can someone suggest a drop-in that throws longer with more output than the Surefire TIR lights(E2DL, LX2, X-series, KX2C, etc). >=4.2V would be a plus.

I'm thinking the Neofab D1500. Maybe Triple Moddoo or Makoff with optic? How about the Solarforce drop-ins...their prices are really compelling. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Corvette6769

seattlite said:


> Can someone suggest a drop-in that throws longer with more output than the Surefire TIR lights(E2DL, LX2, X-series, KX2C, etc). >=4.2V would be a plus.
> 
> I'm thinking the Neofab D1500. Maybe Triple Moddoo or Makoff with optic? How about the Solarforce drop-ins...their prices are really compelling. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


 
Right now, it seems that the hot ticket is http://www.manafont.com/product_inf...3mode-memory-led-dropin-module-42v-max-p-5178 Hard to beat a 3-mode P60 Drop-in containing Cree XM-L T6 LED with smooth reflector driven at 3.2A on high for $16.40 delivered. I love all five of mine.


----------



## orbital

^^

That's a great deal,..really can't do wrong with that .
Smart they use SMO reflector,..finally people are getting it




_
What was your total shipping time from order date?_


----------



## Blitzwing

I got that one off eBay. Comes with smooth and OP. Very impressive output!


----------



## pae77

Corvette6769 said:


> Right now, it seems that the hot ticket is http://www.manafont.com/product_inf...3mode-memory-led-dropin-module-42v-max-p-5178 Hard to beat a 3-mode P60 Drop-in containing Cree XM-L T6 LED with smooth reflector driven at 3.2A on high for $16.40 delivered. I love all five of mine.


 Based on your favorable review, I went ahead and ordered one of these. It will be nice to have a 3 mode XM-L and if by chance it turns out to have a little lower low and medium than the DX 5 mode XM-L that I'm using now, that will be a nice bonus, but I don't necessarily expect that.


----------



## Corvette6769

orbital said:


> ^^
> 
> That's a great deal,..really can't do wrong with that .
> Smart they use SMO reflector,..finally people are getting it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _What was your total shipping time from order date?_


 
My last one arrived 15 calender days after I ordered it and it is the best one yet.


----------



## balloonshark

Please help with a low voltage drop-in for use in either a SolarForce L2R or L2i host.

I'm looking for something floody (XP-G or XM-L ?) with 5 modes and prefer something between cool while and natural. I'm hoping it will run on a single AA Eneloop, 2- AA Eneloops and 3- AAA Eneloops. If it can't run on a single AA then so be it. It would also be great if the drop-in could handle any other battery that fits in the 2 hosts I mentioned but that is probably asking a bit much. I would like to keep costs under $25.


----------



## Tuikku

Has anyone tried Solarforces XPG-R5, 3-mode with OP-reflector?

I could use a little bit more spill on my close range (at work) L2m, it now has R2...
I have R5 with SMO on my L2i, just wondering, if any of you have tested Solarforces new one...


----------



## recDNA

I wish someone would invent and sell an infinite adjustment tailcap that can handle 4 amps!


----------



## GunnarGG

Corvette6769 said:


> Right now, it seems that the hot ticket is http://www.manafont.com/product_inf...3mode-memory-led-dropin-module-42v-max-p-5178 Hard to beat a 3-mode P60 Drop-in containing Cree XM-L T6 LED with smooth reflector driven at 3.2A on high for $16.40 delivered. I love all five of mine.


 
How is tint on this? I usually prefer neutral white but a cool white that is "pure white" and not to cool is ok.

I have this one from Lumens Factory:

http://www.lumensfactory.com/product_details.php?id=74&cid=2&sid=7&page=1

It is said to be less cool (5000-5500 K in the specs) and it has a nice tint but it's not neutral.
It is actually pretty close to my Surefire G2Xpro that also has a nice white tint even though not neutral.

Anyway, do you think this one from manafont anything for me?
Or should I go for anything else?


----------



## Corvette6769

GunnarGG said:


> How is tint on this? I usually prefer neutral white but a cool white that is "pure white" and not to cool is ok.
> 
> I have this one from Lumens Factory:
> 
> http://www.lumensfactory.com/product_details.php?id=74&cid=2&sid=7&page=1
> 
> It is said to be less cool (5000-5500 K in the specs) and it has a nice tint but it's not neutral.
> It is actually pretty close to my Surefire G2Xpro that also has a nice white tint even though not neutral.
> 
> Anyway, do you think this one from manafont anything for me?
> Or should I go for anything else?



I find mine to be a nice white tint. Huge upgrade from you XR-E R2.


----------



## Erzengel

Tuikku said:


> Has anyone tried Solarforces XPG-R5, 3-mode with OP-reflector?
> 
> I could use a little bit more spill on my close range (at work) L2m, it now has R2...
> I have R5 with SMO on my L2i, just wondering, if any of you have tested Solarforces new one...



An XM-L will draw too much current for AA or AAA batteries, an XP-G will be ok. The XPG drop-in with OP reflector is only sold with one or three modes. So You have t buy an extra reflector or buy one five mode smooth drop-in and one three mode OP drop-in and swap the reflectors.


----------



## seattlite

Corvette6769 said:


> Right now, it seems that the hot ticket is http://www.manafont.com/product_inf...3mode-memory-led-dropin-module-42v-max-p-5178 Hard to beat a 3-mode P60 Drop-in containing Cree XM-L T6 LED with smooth reflector driven at 3.2A on high for $16.40 delivered. I love all five of mine.


 
'vette6769....WOW...THANKS!!! I just got the "manafont" today and it is brighter than my nailbender XM-L. For whatever reason, when I first put the drop-in in my host, it would not cycle to its brightest mode using various 18650's and a 17670. So, I put 2xRCR123's in the thing and...DANG...it was bright. I then changed out the cells and now it cycles to all modes using an 18650/17670...and it now behaves as expected.


----------



## pae77

Today I also received my "Manafont" XM-L 3 mode drop in that was recommended by Corvette6769. It's just starting to get dark here so haven't fully checked it out but from what I can tell so far it seems very nice. LED is nicely centered and it seems a little brighter on low, med & high than my other 5 mode XM-L's from KD are. The tint seems a little less yellow. A very nice drop in for the money and it's nice to not have to cycle through the annoying strobe and SOS modes. I'm glad I have the 5 mode ones in case I ever need those functions but my new Manafont 3 mode will surely see more daily use.


----------



## Corvette6769

seattlite said:


> 'vette6769....WOW...THANKS!!! I just got the "manafont" today and it is brighter than my nailbender XM-L. For whatever reason, when I first put the drop-in in my host, it would not cycle to its brightest mode using various 18650's and a 17670. So, I put 2xRCR123's in the thing and...DANG...it was bright. I then changed out the cells and now it cycles to all modes using an 18650/17670...and it now behaves as expected.



I would caution against 2xRCR123's in the future, because this drop-in is rated 4.2v maximum (I am surprised it didn't go poof with 2xRCR123).


----------



## Corvette6769

pae77 said:


> Today I also received my "Manafont" XM-L 3 mode drop in that was recommended by Corvette6769. It's just starting to get dark here so haven't fully checked it out but from what I can tell so far it seems very nice. LED is nicely centered and it seems a little brighter on low, med & high than my other 5 mode XM-L's from KD are. The tint seems a little less yellow. A very nice drop in for the money and it's nice to not have to cycle through the annoying strobe and SOS modes. I'm glad I have the 5 mode ones in case I ever need those functions but my new Manafont 3 mode will surely see more daily use.



Glad you like it. Still loving mine too.


----------



## seattlite

Corvette6769 said:


> I would caution against 2xRCR123's in the future, because this drop-in is rated 4.2v maximum (I am surprised it didn't go poof with 2xRCR123).


 
Yeah...I know it had a 4.2V max, but when I used an 18650/17670 and it didn't light up, I thought the drop-in was DOA. So I put in a couple of 3.7V RCR's and it worked. I put several 3-5 second spurts into the drop-in and nothing bad happened. Since then I switched to 18650/17670 but not before I metered the output from 2xRCR123's...WOW.


----------



## recDNA

I received my 5 mode 6 volt xm-l p60 from solarforce-sales today. Can anybody tell me how to verify that it is the 6 volt model and not the 4.2 volt model? All it has is a silver sticker that says Solarforce - nothing about voltage on the pkg or the drop in???

edit- Never mind - the color of the label apparently is the key. Silver labe = 6 volts.

Thanks for your help!


----------



## Glenn7

There's a cheap new kid on the block for your P60 dropins here - or the whole thing here - just missed these by a day or I would have added one to my order as they look nice and are a good price.


----------



## don.gwapo

Does a P60 with hidden strobe and/or SOS exist?


----------



## orbital

don.gwapo said:


> Does a P60 with hidden strobe and/or SOS exist?



+

A few years ago DX had a _*great*_ P60 drop-in that had 5 separate groups

2-mode
3-mode
2-mode w/ strobe
0~100% user defined
5-mode including SOS & strobe

{you switched groups on the lowest mode, it blinked twice & you did a quick On~Off}

I think before they were sold out I had 4 in various applications,
..today I have 1 full drop-in & 1 pill in a 14500 light .

*They were the best xr-e drop-ins you could get back then, plus it was damn bright!






*How it was driven on single Li-Ion ^


----------



## odd

DX has a 16-Mode driver that has 3 groups:
1. 3-mode low-med-high
2. 5-mode low-med-high-strobe-sos
3. 8-mode low-med-high-strobe-fast strobe-(several beacons)- sos

Switching groups works the way orbital explained.

Works great with the xp-g dropin from dx.

With an additional AMC7135 (there´s space for one one the board) it would also make a nice underdriven xm-l driver.


However, a bit of soldering is required.


----------



## Interference

Hello,
I have a Surefire 6P running on two R123s with the P90 lamp. Now I would like to buy a LED drop-in module from DX.

As far as I can see, each module has the indication of the current draw and the voltage range. I was wondering: it is the current draw constant across the whole range? This would mean that using higher voltages (i.e. 2x3.7 instead 1x3.7) most power get dissipated in the driver circuit, so using two R123 with a LED module would not be efficient.

Am I right or wrong on this?


----------



## Erzengel

The stated current is usually the maximum current delivered to the LED. If the driver of the module is using 7135 linear regulators, You will have the large power loss, You were fearing. this usually doesn't apply to the high voltage drop-ins.
Which drop-ins are You looking for? The Solarforce drop-ins, available at solarforce-sales.com, have a good reputation. Just choose a drop-in with a voltage range fitting to Your battery configuration.


----------



## Interference

Erzengel said:


> The stated current is usually the maximum current delivered to the LED. If the driver of the module is using 7135 linear regulators, You will have the large power loss, You were fearing. this usually doesn't apply to the high voltage drop-ins.
> Which drop-ins are You looking for? The Solarforce drop-ins, available at solarforce-sales.com, have a good reputation. Just choose a drop-in with a voltage range fitting to Your battery configuration.


 
Well, I would like to take a drop in available from DealeXtreme, since I have to buy some other things from them. The point is: two R123 give 7-8 V and most modules take a range of inputs from 3-4 V to approx. 9. My fear is that running them at 7-8 V would waste a lot of power... I don't see any module "tuned" to that voltage.


----------



## simplec6

Has anyone done direct comparisons using a 18650x1 configuration between nailbender's xml 3.1 amp 3 mode drop-in and the 3 amp xml module from deal extreme or manafont? Just wondering did nailbender's is really worth the 40 bucks over the 15 bucks or cheaper from deal extreme using the same xml led.


----------



## simplec6

seattlite said:


> 'vette6769....WOW...THANKS!!! I just got the "manafont" today and it is brighter than my nailbender XM-L. For whatever reason, when I first put the drop-in in my host, it would not cycle to its brightest mode using various 18650's and a 17670. So, I put 2xRCR123's in the thing and...DANG...it was bright. I then changed out the cells and now it cycles to all modes using an 18650/17670...and it now behaves as expected.


 
Which nailbender xml do you have that you are comparing the manafont to? Is it the 2.8 or 3.1 amp? Anything that makes you feel that the nailbender is worth the extra cash?


----------



## Interference

Finally, I've ordered the SKU6090. Looking at this:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?193269-DX-Sku-6090-P60-Drop-In-Review-**UPDATE**
the power draw and the light emission seems to be stable across all the voltaga range


----------



## orbital

+

Quick list of currently available P60 size drop-ins with _*Optics*_

*Torchlab* L3 {Triple Cree XP-G}
*Torchlab* L1 {Triple Cree XP-G}
*Malkoff* M60 {8 degree optic}
*Malkoff *M60F {8 degree optic ~ flood}
*Titanium Innovations* D1000 {XP-E w/ 5.5° TIR Collimator Optic }
*nailbender* 8degree/ 60 degree _customs_


..please add any I missed 

thanks


----------



## Corvette6769

orbital said:


> +
> 
> Quick list of currently available P60 size drop-ins with _*Optics*_
> 
> *Torchlab* L3 {Triple Cree XP-G}
> *Torchlab* L1 {Triple Cree XP-G}
> *Malkoff* M60 {8 degree optic}
> *Malkoff *M60F {8 degree optic ~ flood}
> *Titanium Innovations* D1000 {XP-E w/ 5.5° TIR Collimator Optic }
> 
> 
> ..please add any I missed
> 
> thanks



With a single Cree XM-L U3 putting out 1040-1105 lumens @ 3.0A and its awesome throw with a smooth reflector, what is the advantage to P60 size drop-ins with Optics costing 10-times as much? 

Are they that much better than the single XM-L?


----------



## orbital

+

vette, it's not a better or worse thing,..just a reference

^ added* nailbender* to list


----------



## Corvette6769

orbital said:


> +
> 
> vette, it's not a better or worse thing,..just a reference
> 
> ^ added* nailbender* to list


 
What is the advantage to P60 size drop-ins with Optics costing 10-times as much?


----------



## jorn

Corvette6769 said:


> What is the advantage to P60 size drop-ins with Optics costing 10-times as much?


They are usually better buildt, and got better heatsinking. My optic modules is more like one solid heatsink, and they feel like brick's compared to my not close to 10x cheaper solarforce xm-l. My cheaper solarforce don't seem to be bad buildt or anything, but compared with a malkoff or torchlab triple, its flimsy and lack mass. I dont expect the solarforce to go poof anytime soon on me, but it has to work harder than my "brick's" to earn my trust.

The heat has to jump from the led-->pill-->reflector-->host with my solarforce xm-l. My optic modules has one less barrier: led-->module-->host. Might not be a major advantage, but I think every little thing helps when big Watts is transfered to heat (some end up as light). 

The triple xp-g has a huuuge hotspot compared to the solarforce xm-l. The hotspot is dimmer, but still bright and it still got all the throw i need. I can fit ~5-6 "xm-l hotspots" inside the "triple hotspot". No need to wave that triple around to see whats in front of you. The solarforce xm-l t6 got more throw, and brighter spill than my torchlab triple xp-g r4 (neutral), but got less lumens for sure in a celing bounce test. It's hard to notice where the spill ends on my optic modules. No problems to notice that with my reflector modules. Both triple xp-g and single xm-l got exellent beams, but for different use.


----------



## ganymede

Hi guys,

Is there a beam shot compilations of the more popular dropins currently on the market?

On another note, do you prefer single mode or multiple modes dropins?

Thank.


----------



## Vortus

Looking for a recommendation. I use mine to pretrip my truck along with spotting building numbers making deliveries. Discovered the NB optic XRE I have now doesn't have the brute force needed to overcome street lights that light up an area but obscure the building number. Great drop in, does fine in all other situations. It throws fine, just not enough oomph.


----------



## Erzengel

What distance do You have to cover? The ltrafire XM-L or any other XML-Drop-In with 2.8 Amp max might be worth a try. If You use them only for a few minutes at a time, the heat will be ok.


----------



## orbital

Vortus said:


> Looking for a recommendation. I use mine to pretrip my truck along with spotting building numbers making deliveries. Discovered the NB optic XRE I have now doesn't have the brute force needed to overcome street lights that light up an area but obscure the building number. Great drop in, does fine in all other situations. It throws fine, just not enough oomph.



+

*Consider an XP-E drop-in,..*
they'll give *more throw *than xp-g & your runtime will be much greater than a cranked up xm-l

Jay at FlashlightConnection has some Dereelight XP-E drop-ins that'll work great

http://flashlightconnection.com/Der...t-3SD-Cree-XP-E-R3-Drop-In-P60-size-p389.html
http://flashlightconnection.com/Der...t-3SM-Cree-XP-E-R3-Drop-In-P60-size-p387.html

SD = single Li-Ion
SM = two/three cr123 or {2} Li-Ions

:thumbsup:
______

edit: another option is XR-E w/ smooth reflector


----------



## Vortus

The problem ones were about 125-150 ft.


----------



## SRacer2000

OK, This thread made things even more confusing. I could use a recommendation. Here's what I am looking for:

Runs off 2xCR123a
Orange peel reflector
3 Level
Don't need more than 250-300 lumen on high
Not real picky on tint, I'm fine with the standard P60 Led tint
Not over driven
Durability and Reliability

Don't really what to spend more than $50


----------



## odd

SRacer2000 said:


> OK, This thread made things even more confusing. I could use a recommendation. Here's what I am looking for:
> 
> Runs off 2xCR123a
> Orange peel reflector
> 3 Level
> Don't need more than 250-300 lumen on high
> Not real picky on tint, I'm fine with the standard P60 Led tint
> Not over driven
> Durability and Reliability
> 
> Don't really what to spend more than $50



You could ask nailbender to build a dropin that fits your needs.

If you are ok with a 5-mode dropin I can recommend SKU 32954 from dx.


----------



## Shermanator

Need a drop-in for my Solarforce L2P that will throw.

Suggestions?


----------



## psychbeat

Shermanator said:


> Need a drop-in for my Solarforce L2P that will throw.
> 
> Suggestions?


 
Any XR-E module with smooth reflector will throw fairly well. 
If u add an aspheric lens it will throw like crazy.


----------



## Old goat

I have the KD Raidfire Spear clone. Is there a drop in emittor for it that would give me more throw? I was happy with the light, the way it was, till I got my ThruNight Catapult last week!


----------



## recDNA

Shermanator said:


> Need a drop-in for my Solarforce L2P that will throw.
> 
> Suggestions?



Nailbender XR-E R2 1.4 amp P60 potted with smooth reflector.


----------



## bugsy714

+1 for nailbender, his units are great and very affordable, especially when you are trying to pin down exactly what your needs will be


----------



## shao.fu.tzer

*Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

I have a confession to make...

I buy cheap drop-ins... Lots of them...

Of all different colors and filled with all different sorts of LEDs...
I don't know why I do it... 
When I check out those overseas free shipping sites it can be very hard to
resist... 

I have red, blue, green, orange, yellow, UV, IR, warm, neutral, cool, SSC, LumiLEDs, Cree, Osram, generic, throwers, flooders, single modes, two modes, three modes, 5 modes even... 

I can't really say that I horde them, because when I get one I don't like or get tired of, I either straight up give it away or mod it and then give it away. I just can't stop buying them... I also buy quality drop-ins, which I keep in all of my close-at-hand lights, so it's not that I'm cheap...

Sure they break.. Usually the emitter just falls out due to a poor surface mount job... But then I just fix them and all is OK again!

Does anyone else share this odd addiction, or am I just a weirdo? 

Shao

Edit: I've actually just realized that I have this problem, that's why I'm posting this... Self-realization... What a mofo...


----------



## dosei-45

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

Well, now everyone knows your a resource for giving an opinion on various cheap drop-in (and upper-end ones). Nothing wrong with that. Heck, I was thinking maybe you were a koolaid drinking Surefire fanboy...now I know you play a little more of the field (or at least the two extremes).


----------



## foxtrot29

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

I have shifting addictions. All related to EDC gear. Lately it's been a fixation on fixed blade knives... Bought an ESEE Izula and a CRKT Minimalist... Now I want the other Izula colours and possibly a TOPS Hoffman Mini Harpoon...

But the addiction usually shifts back to lights - lately nothing has wowed me more than my Surefire LX2 or Tactical Clicky HDS... so I've been off lights for a while.


----------



## shao.fu.tzer

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*



dosei-45 said:


> Well, now everyone knows your a resource for giving an opinion on various cheap drop-in (and upper-end ones). Nothing wrong with that. Heck, I was thinking maybe you were a koolaid drinking Surefire fanboy...now I know you play a little more of the field (or at least the two extremes).



I don't discriminate! I give everything a chance until it breaks on me!!! 



foxtrot29 said:


> I have shifting addictions. All related to EDC gear. Lately it's been a fixation on fixed blade knives... Bought an ESEE Izula and a CRKT Minimalist... Now I want the other Izula colours and possibly a TOPS Hoffman Mini Harpoon...
> 
> But the addiction usually shifts back to lights - lately nothing has wowed me more than my Surefire LX2 or Tactical Clicky HDS... so I've been off lights for a while.


 
I had a really bad neck knife addiction which I've managed to curb.... I've been wanting a Mini Harpoon bad though!!!  If you like fixed blades you'd probably like to check out my collection.... nothing too expensive - just effective! I'm a big fan of real Nepalese made kukris and big chunks of carbon steel that you could whack the stuffing out of things with... A fixed blade that you can throw is a plus... I just bought a Glock field knife and have been having a blast tossing it!

Shao


----------



## digitalerik

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

I bought a solar-force .2-4.2 v xml drop in, it sucks. I'll never ever buy something like a solarforce drop in again. I felt like I was robbed. I can't believe they had the nerve to rate it at 800 lumens, then the vendor dropped it down to 500 lumens, and my rating is more like 200-275 lumens. I still want my money back.....Also, I ruined the first solarforce drop in as I didn't know it was low voltage and nor the vendor, or solarforce would work with me on a replacement. So yeah I blew 40 bucks on [email protected]##y drop ins.....


----------



## dosei-45

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

Well, since you have trouble resisting things with really low prices...and like fixed blades that you can also throw...you might like the Cold Steel GI Tanto. Heavy, tough, throwable, cheap. You should be able to find dozens of places selling 'em for under 30 bucks (such as amazon).


----------



## HotWire

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

I used to do that. I have boxes of "spare" cheap P60 modules. Don't buy 'em any more. Some crapped out. Some were weird tints. Some were quite good! If I go LED I usually buy a newer, name brand. No problems there.


----------



## skyfire

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

the first step is admitting it. hehe

and besides, your at CPF! we can relate to strange addictions.
I actually wouldnt mind having a full spectrum of colored LED drop-ins.

a couple months ago, i was on a bag shopping spree, and lately its been knifes.
I should just get a couple of Sebenzas and be over with it. and if i learned anything with all the lights ive bought, probably save money in the long run too. LoL


----------



## slate

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

I am a dropin addict. I have way too many of those damm Nailbender white cardboard tubes! Dropins are like shoes or purses that women carry. You always need a different dropin for every role.


----------



## manoloco

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

If you are really passionate about trying, modding, testing, experimenting with them to me the fun and investigation more than overweights the price of them.

if you were to just put them in a drawer and forget about them, then i would say you have a consuming problem (because almost all cheap drop-ins definitely lack collecting value), but thats definitely not your case.

its good to have something you like and have good-easy access to it, enjoy!

Btw if you are going to give some away i have a cheap P60 Host and a 18650 that would love trying them!  specially amber colors, but would take any!

I cant say i have that bug nor the money to support it really, but some cheap drop ins are really good, i have a manafont 3 mode XM-L drop in thats really good. 

I only have 3 drop ins in total: a Nailbender XM-L, a Malkoff M60 and the mentioned Manafont one. the only cheap one was the Manafont, but its really good in use.


----------



## Viper715

My only problem is my OCD wants me to have a host for every drop in and that becomes a problem.


----------



## Derek Dean

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

Shao, I had a good long laugh reading your post. Very funny. I admire a man who is willing to admit that he's weird, and make no mistake about it, you are definitely, certifiably, and undeniably, weird... which of course is why you fit in so well here .


----------



## march.brown

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*



dosei-45 said:


> Well, since you have trouble resisting things with really low prices...and like fixed blades that you can also throw...you might like the Cold Steel GI Tanto. Heavy, tough, throwable, cheap. You should be able to find dozens of places selling 'em for under 30 bucks (such as amazon).


Here in the UK , it is illegal to have a fixed-blade knife ... It is also illegal to have a folding knife over three inches blade length ... It might even be shorter than that ... Lock knives are classed as fixed-blades ... I have several in a drawer that cannot be taken outside the house as they are all overlength and locking ... I clean them regularly then give a sigh as I put them back in the drawer.

I always used to carry a lock knife at work as it was so much safer to use and wouldn't close unexpectedly when in use ... There were always parcels that needed to be opened ... I don't know what people use nowadays , possibly a more dangerous Stanley knife.

All my hunting and skinning knives were sold when they were still legal ... That was after I sold my .308 rifle , so there was no longer any need for the skinning knives ... At the moment , I have a very nice "letter-opener" ... It is a Zwilling J.A.Henckels , 32320-130 (5") twin point , friodur , ice-hardened ... That's what it says on the blade and it is on my desk , ready to be used for any letter opening ... It is really a kitchen knife.

In the UK , it is illegal to injure a burglar or thief ... It is illegal to even hold him till the police come ... Injured burglars frequently take good people to court and win ... A wealthy man in Manchester is at present in jail awaiting trial for stabbing to death one of two burglars who broke into his house ... I must admit that I would rather be charged with murdering a burglar than the other way round.

Good , honest people in the UK seem to have no rights.

The law favours the burglar and any others committing illegal acts.
.


----------



## Tiggercat

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but since we're talking drop-ins, especially cheap vs. quality:

What are the quality drop-ins? It seems people speak highly of Nailbender, but are there others? I'd really like a Solarforce L2P, but want a high quality drop-in for it.


----------



## ^Gurthang

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

Tig,

Malkoff is one of the best. NB of course, also Thrunight, DereeLight, Lumens Factory, OverReady [Moddoo], Kerbose. I know I'm forgetting others but they will get mention by others w/ better memory.


----------



## CheepSteal

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

My problem is I have two Surefire hosts and only one P60 LED dropin (I broke two trying to experiment). I keep going back and forth between my 6P and my Z2. Every few days I'll be late for university because I NEEDED (OCD much) to change the host to suit my mood. I'll intentionally just sit there changing the head (only one has a SS bezel), the dropin, battery bumper, 2nd tail O ring (They both have it, but I prefer the thicker one on the EDC host; again OCD), battery and then making sure everything is ship shape and 100% functional before I leave. I have terrible terrible OCD.


----------



## shao.fu.tzer

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*



skyfire said:


> the first step is admitting it. hehe
> 
> and besides, your at CPF! we can relate to strange addictions.
> I actually wouldnt mind having a full spectrum of colored LED drop-ins.



Hehe.. yeah, I do feel better now.. Especially hearing that I'm not alone... and colored LEDs are fun... no two ways about it!!!



slate said:


> I am a dropin addict. I have way too many of those damm Nailbender white cardboard tubes! Dropins are like shoes or purses that women carry. You always need a different dropin for every role.



I feel better that I'm not alone...  ...and I agree... I mostly USE my expensive drop ins, but some of the cheap ones fill a role that the more expensive drop-ins can't (for instance, I really like those XP-G R5/5mm dual LED drop-ins that they sell on Manafont.)



manoloco said:


> If you are really passionate about trying, modding, testing, experimenting with them to me the fun and investigation more than overweights the price of them.
> 
> if you were to just put them in a drawer and forget about them, then i would say you have a consuming problem (because almost all cheap drop-ins definitely lack collecting value), but thats definitely not your case.
> 
> its good to have something you like and have good-easy access to it, enjoy!
> 
> Btw if you are going to give some away i have a cheap P60 Host and a 18650 that would love trying them!  specially amber colors, but would take any!
> 
> I cant say i have that bug nor the money to support it really, but some cheap drop ins are really good, i have a manafont 3 mode XM-L drop in thats really good.
> 
> I only have 3 drop ins in total: a Nailbender XM-L, a Malkoff M60 and the mentioned Manafont one. the only cheap one was the Manafont, but its really good in use.



I have so many that I lost track of them months ago... I do agree, that manafont Ultrafire 3-mod XM-L is handy and so far hasn't dropped its emitter yet!



Viper715 said:


> My only problem is my OCD wants me to have a host for every drop in and that becomes a problem.


 
Same here... a host without a drop in is a sad thing to me... I'm very borderline OCD... I like to keep all of my lights loaded and ready to go for when the SHTF...



Derek Dean said:


> Shao, I had a good long laugh reading your post. Very funny. I admire a man who is willing to admit that he's weird, and make no mistake about it, you are definitely, certifiably, and undeniably, weird... which of course is why you fit in so well here .


 
Thanks! That wasn't the purpose though - I was trying to see how many other CPFers share the same problem! ...and I'm not weird! Everyone else is!



Tiggercat said:


> I don't mean to hijack the thread, but since we're talking drop-ins, especially cheap vs. quality:
> 
> What are the quality drop-ins? It seems people speak highly of Nailbender, but are there others? I'd really like a Solarforce L2P, but want a high quality drop-in for it.



I only trust my life with Malkoffs... They're the only drop-ins that haven't failed me, and I've abused a few as well...
Every Malkoff I've tested has passed my 870 00 buckshot trial, while most cheap drop-ins simply start falling to pieces after 6-9 shots (emitter falls off, driver PCB snaps loose, etc...)... 




CheepSteal said:


> My problem is I have two Surefire hosts and only one P60 LED dropin (I broke two trying to experiment). I keep going back and forth between my 6P and my Z2. Every few days I'll be late for university because I NEEDED (OCD much) to change the host to suit my mood. I'll intentionally just sit there changing the head (only one has a SS bezel), the dropin, battery bumper, 2nd tail O ring (They both have it, but I prefer the thicker one on the EDC host; again OCD), battery and then making sure everything is ship shape and 100% functional before I leave. I have terrible terrible OCD.


 
Yeah, I do the same thing... but I have ton of parts, lights, and dropins in my personal collection, so sometimes I get carried away legoing things together, will look up at the clock, and realize that I've been swapping parts around for 2 hours... Yesterday I came up with an idea - I wrapped all of my favorite personal lights up in bandanas and bubble wrap, stuffed them into a CountyComm bug out bag, and put it at the top of my closet... I'm hoping the out-of-sight out-of-mind trick will work... 

Anyway, I think admission is the first step towards recovery... I don't have any royal blue drop-ins though... Hmmmmm....


----------



## CheepSteal

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

Hahaha, good luck with the outtasightouttamind thing. That wouldn't work for me, I was on vacation and only brought my 6P host and I would space out sometimes thinking that I really really really wanted to use a combatgrip right about now.
I finally pulled the trigger on a NB P60 with optics in WW, hopefully it's similar to the standard P60 incan, but brighter. Might help with the whole lego problem, I can just pick the host I want and go!


----------



## shao.fu.tzer

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*



CheepSteal said:


> Hahaha, good luck with the outtasightouttamind thing. That wouldn't work for me, I was on vacation and only brought my 6P host and I would space out sometimes thinking that I really really really wanted to use a combatgrip right about now.
> I finally pulled the trigger on a NB P60 with optics in WW, hopefully it's similar to the standard P60 incan, but brighter. Might help with the whole lego problem, I can just pick the host I want and go!



Call me weird, but I wouldn't feel right leaving the house without at least two lights!!! Heck, I even carry a flashlight to the grocery store in the middle of the afternoon... 

_edited_


----------



## CheepSteal

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*



shao.fu.tzer said:


> Call me weird, but I wouldn't feel right leaving the house without at least two lights!!! Heck, I even carry a flashlight to the grocery store in the middle of the afternoon...



I guess I'm weird too, I always carry my Surefire with me wherever I'm going. Beach, supermarket, whatever else!

I recently got back to trying to mod my two broken P60 dropins, I swapped the driver from a burnt out P60 to a warm white P60 with a faulty driver. Felt great doing it myself and making it work. I think I'm going to start making my own P60 dropins just like you, Shao. I think I might start becoming a P60 hoarder too...


----------



## psychbeat

Yeah I'm starting to want more drop-ins now that it looks like a p60 headlamp host is really happening. 

I understand the limitations of the p60 but where else can u get such up to date performance?

Also, many of the vendors push the emitters much harder than mainstream consumer lights ie 4sevens etc. 

d26 FTW!!!


----------



## psychbeat

Ive got a quad xpg on the way
A dual Linger module
An sst50 nb which I might replace w XML 
A nice copper x-re behind an Ahorton aspheric
And a simple single mode xre 1.4 in a smooth as an all around light. 

Guess I'm covered for now ...


----------



## nastysanchez

Hello everyone, Looking to figure out if it would be possible to run a xpg drop-in in my SF-G2 Nitrolon incandescent My concern is it being a plastic/polymer body & head. The lens @ the bezel has already started to melt with the incan. Also, where as it is an incan model do I need to do any other mods to get a led drop-in to work?? The driver & what not should be all with the drop-in, correct? I've seen a huge variety of cheap drop-ins & I've been extremely tempted to just buy one. I know in life you get what you pay for. The solarforce drop-ins have been begging me to purchase them.. are they decent or am i gunna get ripped:scowl:?


----------



## psychbeat

Yer probably ok with anything 1.5a max or lower. The solarforce drops r probably fine - I'd get a 3 mode so u can bump it down to med if it feels too warm but I'd bet it's ok.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

I would agree. Either don't run it a long time at a use, or get something you can throttle down. THAT said I only have ONE multi mode drop and I can't remember what it is that does not have irritating lower modes. Most of my multis have slow enough PWM to drive me crazy!


----------



## JohnnyLunar

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*



shao.fu.tzer said:


> Every Malkoff I've tested has passed my 870 00 buckshot trial



May I ask what light mount you're using on your 870? I have a plastic Streamlight mount on mine, that wraps around the mag tube and secures with 3 little allen bolts and nuts, but upon installing it and tightening the bolts, 2 of the 3 bolts started to crunch the plastic. I haven't even taken it to the range to test, but I'm already sure the thing would not make it through a whole day of 00 Buck. 

Here are my P60 hosts:

• Surefire 6P Original (with B serial number, slight purple anodizing)
• Surefire 6P Defender
• Surefire C2 Centurion Black

My P60 Drop-ins:

• Thrunite XM-L low voltage 3-mode
• Malkoff M61HCRI
• Lumens Factory HO-4

My preferred setup is the C2 body and clip, Defender bezel and clicky tailcap, and Malkoff M61HCRI, running on 2 CR123A primaries, with an AW17670 as backup.

I also just ordered some extra tailcap O-rings, to try and further weatherproof my P60 lights, and a Solarforce L2-S6 forward clicky tailcap. I just can't get around to loving the Z41 tailcap.


----------



## Siggyhk

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

Hi. I'm wondering if I could use a Malkoff M61L in a Full Nitrolon G3.

Aside from that, what's a good choice for a 2-3 mode "cheap" drop-in to use instead in the G3? Thanks.


----------



## ^Gurthang

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

Anyone tried the new Lumens Factory High CRI XPG drop-in? I just got the parts from Craig for an XPG High CRI Q2 then heard that LF is selling a Q5 version! Any chance of a few comparison beamshots??


----------



## tobrien

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

so the Malkoffs are the best then, huh?

would a Malkoff M61 need much or any modding for fitting in a solarforce L2 host?


----------



## jvarn81

nailbender and malkoffs are great, hard to beat them both.


----------



## tobrien

jvarn81 said:


> nailbender and malkoffs are great, hard to beat them both.


Thank you. I legit just found out about Nailbender!


----------



## TheRealDoodle

Does anyone have the UltraFire SST-50 3.7V~4.2V drop in? The website isnt very specific, but it says its 3 mode and that it can put out 1250 lumens...Is this the brightest? I have a wf-502b and I want to get the brightest possible drop-in either 18650's or cr123's






Nick


----------



## Wayne G.

I've been reading about drop-ins and I figure they're called that for a reason. Are they all truly interchangeable? Reason I ask is that some manuf are proprietary on other parts of the hosts and tail caps preventing them from swapping around. I'm new to the forum, hence my elementary question.


----------



## ^Gurthang

Wayne, 

Drop-ins are also called P60 or D26 and are designed to be interchangeable. The design is based on the SureFire P60 incandescent lamp assembly for the C, Z and P series lights. However, there are small variations that will require a bit of shimming or contact spring adjustment to get good battery contact and proper heat sinking. You can choose from very inexpensive P60s up to high-end makers like Nailbender and Malkoff.


----------



## pomp92

Hello everyone!
I would like to be assembly by me one tri-XPG module...
Can anyone tell me which driver should I use for a single 18650 cell and if there is a empty drop-in that may contain drivers, PCB and carclo optic?
Or please can you give me the exact sizes of the P60 standard?
Thank you! 

PS: aaand please could you also tell me which are the best tri/quad xpg drop-in on the market and where to buy them?


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

I sure wish I knew which drop in I have that is in my Ultrafire WF-505B. It is the only more than one mode P60 I have that has NO PWM in the lower modes.

Only my Fenix P2D and Regal EDC have zero PWM in lower modes. My Luma Incedio and Connexion have it but fast enough that it doesn't bother me.


----------



## trdsupragt

Can someone recommend to me a drop in P60 sized module that will work with a single 3V SureFire 123A cell? I have a SF 310R that I want to convert to LED. I was looking at the first page of this thread and while some will work, they are a bit pricey. Most of the DX links are dead, and those are the ones that fit my budget as well. I'm looking for something that will be fairly bright and has maybe 2 modes (strobe and constant). Thanks!


----------



## LV426

Low volt (0.8-4.2) Solarforce XP-G R5...


----------



## trdsupragt

Thanks! I ordered one today and decided to go with the 1 mode instead for simplicity's sake.


----------



## zs&tas

Whoa ! big thread lol.

i am after a single mode huge power p60 dropin, what are my options ? build or buy ? do i want a sst 50 ? 90 even or just a hard driven xm-l ? 
and how many otf lumens can i get ?
help please, its going in a C2-twisty, I have two extenders for different battery options and runtimes - a voltage for primary option would be good.
thanks 
Anthony


----------



## jabe1

Does anyone know of a lower power, neutral XP-G drop-in that would be suitable for a G2?

I think around 150Lumens should be sufficient. 3-9 volt and 2 mode is optimum.

Am I searching for the holy grail?


----------



## zs&tas

hey jabe1, take a look at lumensfactory.com online shop, d26 led section, they have 3 mode xpg neutrals with the voltage you require, gives you 5% 30% and 100% = 1 Amp

I have the e series version and use the 30% most - its prolly what your after, the dropins have memory too so as long as you dont on/off too fast it will stay at the mode you choose.


----------



## recDNA

Is there a cheap (under $20) 2 amp xml p60 drop in that will run on 2 x CR123?

I love my Solarforce drop in but even though it is supposed to be safe for 2 primaries I think 3 amps is too much for the batteries. 

I prefer to use primaries.


----------



## hank

*Re: Confessions of a Cheap Drop-in Junkie...*

> specially amber colors

Glad to see another amber fan show up here. Now there's two of us (grin).
If someone else comes along we can start a topic ...
(Nailbender made me a very nice amber 2-LED dropin last year; I was just starting to wonder if there are better LEDs available.


----------



## HEY HEY ITS HENDO

recDNA said:


> I love my Solarforce drop in but I think 3 amps is too much for the batteries



......... Do you have a link for this particular one?


----------



## SikDMAX

Ill make a post on a drop in I just got recently in a bit, but Im very interested in an Amber LED P60 drop in! Any more info?


----------



## tjswarbrick

jabe1 said:


> Does anyone know of a lower power, neutral XP-G drop-in that would be suitable for a G2?
> 
> I think around 150Lumens should be sufficient. 3-9 volt and 2 mode is optimum.
> 
> Am I searching for the holy grail?



Malkoff M61WL - They call it warm, but my M61W is more like neutral. WL ~ 125 Lumens. 5hrs runtime. The M61L Hi CRI is quite a bit warmer, and perfect in my G2Z. Not multimode in a G2, though. (Can be 2mode in an Elzetta or Malkoff host, with a special ring.)
Otherwise, have Nailbender build a 3-mode exactly to your spec - his stuff is fantastic. But you may need to do some math to calculate the current draw you want. He doesn't test or certify in composite/polymer hosts.


----------



## orbital

SikDMAX said:


> Ill make a post on a drop in I just got recently in a bit, but Im very interested in an Amber LED P60 drop in! Any more info?



+

A while back I was looking to make a warmer light setup, to be used as room lighting.
When to a local Hobby Lobby and bought a sheet of plastic Amber, (report cover type of thing)

It was on sale for like $1.00 or something,...good price.
So I got it, and carefully cut out circles around a couple of different flashlight lenses I have.

Just put on the underside of the lens, put your light back together.

I know there are threads on filters ect.., but it was the whole _*$1 spent*_ to do exactly what I wanted.

cheers


----------



## KILLER_K

Could someone tell me the highest lumens drop int he 9P will take? And the longest lasting batteries to use. Would like to just go ahead and max it out if possible. Thanks


----------



## KILLER_K

Did I post in the wrong thread? Or is this one dying out? Thanks


----------



## psychbeat

This one is kind of dying out. 

You might want to look @ Nailbenders hi voltage XML drop. 

I'm not sure how many amps 3xcr123 can safely put out.

I'd ask him. 

I'm still looking for the "PERFCT" drop. 

I'm hoping at some point to have VanisleDSM make me either a quad XP-E or XP-C in neutral @5.6a to run in my P60 headlamp host. 

My two current favs are my van quad XP-G and my Nailbender XM-L ~3.5a
Tho the NB is on the cool side of neutral. 

I also have a Vinh 4a XML that pulled 4.6a straight from my 4x 18650 batt carrier. 
It's a monster! But probably going to sell or return as its just too warm for me.
It's 3000k or maybe warmer. 
No green at all!


----------



## KILLER_K

Thank you "psychbeat" for the info. I made a stand alone thread but it got deleted and I was directed here. So not sure what is going on. As now I will have to make another thread asking some stuff. But I will also look at "Nailbenders" stuff. Thanks for your time, you've been most helpful.


----------



## jamesavery22

Anyone know of a single mode XM-L drop-in that takes a huge voltage input range(2.7-9)?

http://www.batteryjunction.com/thrunite-p60-r5.html

Is close to what I want. XP-G with the 2.7-9 but I can't find one for sale where it's actually in stock.

Want a drop-in that can run off of one 18650, two CR123's, or two RCRs.


----------



## ltxi

Thrunite P60 XML. Battery Junction had them a few days ago. Lighthound is cheaper, but I think they're still out of stock.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

Can anybody confirm or deny that the three mode XML drop in here:
http://www.batteryjunction.com/thrunite-xml-3m-42v.html

Has PWM or Regulated output?

Modes are nice. But when nasty PWM is around only high is worth anything.

I have one nice drop that is three mode and no PWM. I wish I knew where I could get another!


----------



## orbital

PlayboyJoeShmoe said:


> Can anybody confirm or deny that the three mode XML drop in here:
> http://www.batteryjunction.com/thrunite-xml-3m-42v.html
> 
> Has PWM or Regulated output?
> 
> Modes are nice. But when nasty PWM is around only high is worth anything.
> 
> I have one nice drop that is three mode and no PWM. I wish I knew where I could get another!



+

Check out Dereelight XM-L,..they have no noticeable PWM, even on Low.

Also, they have 3C & 4A neutral tints available {you have to ask for the 4A}
I should be getting a _Low Voltage_ 4A pill by end of week or early next.


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


----------



## KDOG3

Hi everyone. I hope I dont sound like a broken record and apologize for not wanting to sift through 35pages of posts, but can anyone suggest a HIGH QUALITY 3mode drop in that doesnt cost a fortune? A tall order I know but I would appreciate any help you can offer.


----------



## texas cop

Maybe this one will satisfy a few, I ordered 2 of the 2.5Amp versions. http://www.intl-outdoor.com/xml-u2-p60-dropin-module-p-336.html


----------



## ltxi

Nailbender Custom Lites Cree MC-E, 3 Modes....about $85 from Lighthound. If that's a fortune, there's always the Thrunight 3 Mode XML for about $25.


----------



## BIG45-70

How do these multi-mode dropin's work with a 6P/9P twisty switch? Do all mode's still function?


----------



## Hondo

Sure, you just tap or twist to cycle on-off to change modes. Each cycle advances the mode, but note that some drivers memorize the mode you are/were on after a set time of the light being off, and others after a set time of being on. Neither precludes using the twisty switch.


----------



## jabe1

I'm looking for a cheap (under $20) 3 mode XP-G drop-in with an OP reflector, preferably not driven harder than 1400ma. Is there such a thing available?

I've checked the usual places, but I may have missed something. I kind of remember seeing alot of these around before the XM-Ls came out.


----------



## tandem

Solarforce has a 3 mode XP-G drop in with what looks to be a light OP reflector, now $16. Check SBFlashlights to be sure about the reflector. I have one in a 2xAA body for the family to use, no complaints.


----------



## Hondo

That was what I thought of also, I have one. Just so you know, it goes Hi-Mid-Lo sequence, with memory. Also, it does have PWM that you can see in the lower modes (like all multi-level drop-ins in this price range). I would guess it is around 300 - 500 Hz. It's high enough not to bother me in normal use, but I am not super sensitive to this.


----------



## jabe1

what I'm really after is the LED board and the reflector. I need it to do a high CRI Nichia swap. I'll most likely change the driver anyway.


----------



## ^Gurthang

Illumination Supply carries all the parts you want. In fact Craig will have the 219 emitter mounted on a star very shortly, I have several on order for drop-ins and mules.


----------



## jabe1

I'm pretty sure the stars are 10mm, 14mm, and 20mm, not the 16mm needed. The reflectors he has are for XR-Es IIRC.

I'm still looking, but I think my best bet may be to get the Solarforce and cannibalize it.


----------



## bfksc

Hondo said:


> That was what I thought of also, I have one. Just so you know, it goes Hi-Mid-Lo sequence, with memory. Also, it does have PWM that you can see in the lower modes (like all multi-level drop-ins in this price range). I would guess it is around 300 - 500 Hz. It's high enough not to bother me in normal use, but I am not super sensitive to this.


PWM is a deal breaker for me as my wife and I seem to be sensitive to it.

Does anyone know if there is a P60 dropin using either XM-L T5 NW tint or XP-G R4 NW tint with 3-modes that has these features:

NO memory - comes on at Low then clicks up to Med -> High
Low voltage range 2.8-4.2v or similar for use with one 3.7v LiIon cell
Current regulated constant output (NO PWM)
OP reflector
Outputs at about 3-5 low, 15-30 med, and max lumens out the front
Ships to Canada

I'm fussy I know, but it's what I need for a dropin, price is not much of a factor if it does what I need.
Thanks!


----------



## F250XLT

How about getting the OP updated with all the current options? I obviously cannot accomplish that, due to the fact I was the one who started another thread inquiring what is available currently.


----------



## psychbeat

I'm semi sensitive to PWM and the Nailbender (and Vinhs) drops don't bug me. 
I think they use a pretty high frequency. 

Really diggin the 4C tint XMLs & smooth reflectors these days. 

I feel like LOP isnt necessary w XML


----------



## merlocka

Hello- 

I'm interested in the following P60 dropin

High CRI (My current carry light is a Novatac with the K2 high CRI mod, that color is perfect to my eyes)
Solid output (say, ~2 hour runtime on a good 18650)
TIR Optic (or otherwise, I'd really like a beam profile similar to the UB3T)
Capable to run of 18650 or 2 CR123's

This would go in either a bored 6p host or a CL1H.

Thanks for any advice.


----------



## tjswarbrick

merlocka said:


> Hello-
> 
> I'm interested in the following P60 dropin
> 
> High CRI (My current carry light is a Novatac with the K2 high CRI mod, that color is perfect to my eyes)
> Solid output (say, ~2 hour runtime on a good 18650)
> TIR Optic (or otherwise, I'd really like a beam profile similar to the UB3T)
> Capable to run of 18650 or 2 CR123's
> 
> This would go in either a bored 6p host or a CL1H.
> 
> Thanks for any advice.



My advice: Have Nailbender build one for you. I don't know if he rates CRI, but he has neutrals and warms, and will put an optic on an XR-E.
I used my neutral last night, and though the tint looks slightly warm, the color rendition is as good as my M61W (which is quite neutral.)
I prefer it to my M61L HCri - which actually makes everything look a little yellow/brown to my eyes.
Or get in on Vinh's Nichina 219 build - but I don't think he does an optic; it's liable to be a little "floody."


----------



## tjswarbrick

F250XLT said:


> How about getting the OP updated with all the current options?



Add to the list:

EDC+: XM-L in 1 and 3 mode, Cool and Neutral

Coming very soon, through (different) specific vendors:
Malkoff M61 regular, L, and LL in Neutral XP-G,
Malkoff M61 regular, L, and LL in Hi CRI Neutral 219.

They change so quickly, it's hard to keep up.


----------



## orbital

+

*Samsung emitter* ~ 5-mode drop-in,
could be interesting, or _very interesting_ :naughty:


samsung 3535 led, white, 512lm, emitter.pdf


See Rule #3 Do not Hot Link images - Norm


----------



## lightrider

Just ordered an XT-E R5 3 mode high/med/low smooth reflector P60. According to specs this is 148 lumen per watt 420 lumen at 1.5a. XPG is 93 lumen per watt and about 490 at 1.5a. Not quite as bright as XPG but with longer run time.seems good value at $8.


----------



## Blitzwing

Where you getting that one from?


----------



## lightrider

Blitzwing said:


> Where you getting that one from?


 Kaidomain, four versions available,i'll write a mini review when it arrives usually in about four weeks.


----------



## Blitzwing

Thanks.


----------



## trdsupragt

Not sure if this is on topic, but I've got a P60 type LED light and I was wondering if there was any way I could give it a wider beam without losing any light.


----------



## wquiles

trdsupragt said:


> Not sure if this is on topic, but I've got a P60 type LED light and I was wondering if there was any way I could give it a wider beam without losing any light.


What do you mean by "losing light"?


----------



## TyJo

trdsupragt said:


> Not sure if this is on topic, but I've got a P60 type LED light and I was wondering if there was any way I could give it a wider beam without losing any light.


From my limited understanding yes you will lose some amount of light. A bare emitter will have no light lost (imagine a bare emitter like a candle), but this isn't really useful for flashlight applications. Adding a reflector and a lens adds inefficiencies and decreases light output (which is reduced by the fancy anti-reflective coatings on the reflector and lens). I would think that adding another surface to disperse the light, such as scotch tape, a diffuser cap, or some other type of system will increase the inefficiencies and decrease the overall luman output.

That being said, this probably doesn't matter practicality wise, and you might not even notice depending on the method used to alter the beam pattern. There are some beam diffuser threads out there, if a diffuser system works and provides you with a beam pattern that you like and is functional I would use it. There are diffuser attachments from Fenix and other manufacturers, scotch tape, specific lenses, water bottle caps, etc. I don't use beam diffusers so I don't have any good recommendations, you might be better off starting a new thread for specific info. Here is a thread a found in a quick search: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?278507-Cheap-diffuser.

EDIT: Simple solution I forgot to mention is to change the reflector if the design allows this and you can find one. An OP (orange peel) reflector will make the beam wider or more floody.


----------



## Blitzwing

trdsupragt said:


> Not sure if this is on topic, but I've got a P60 type LED light and I was wondering if there was any way I could give it a wider beam without losing any light.



Depends on what sort of LED emitter is in the P60 dropin you already have. If for example it' an XR-E (or commonly known as R2 or Q5) which by default has a narrowish beam, you could buy a cheap dropin with an XP-G (or R5 as it's commonly known) or even XM-L, matched with an orange peel reflector and you will pick up output in lumens and get more flood. Most P60 owners have several dropins for their lights for this easy sort of customisation.


----------



## orbital

+

*Samsung emitter *drop-in w/ medium parabolic reflector.
The die itself is close to xp-g in size.

I'll go out on a limb and say it's the most sorted emitter for a drop-in to date, yep I'll claim it here!
the beam is flawless leaning toward throw (zero doughnut aspect)
Usable spill, but the hotspot it pronounced.

_Anyone spare a light amber filter?_ :thumbsup:










^^^ On High > approx 6~7 ft. away 
the actual hotspot is smaller than what shows in pic., then there is a hotspot spill, if you will.


----------



## MattSPL

Just looking for suggestions for a P60 drop in that will give me a bright white wall of light, like a Surefire L4, except better 

It will be going into a Surefire C2L, and will be run off either 2x AW LifeP04's, or a single AW 17670 protected cell.

Will a Malkoff M60F give me what i'm looking for, or are there better options?

Cheers
Matt


----------



## trdsupragt

I think what i'm looking for is I guess a lens, that would make the beam wider and more suitable for night cycling. 

Although I have experimented with things like bottle caps and such before. Quite interesting and sometimes very handy solutions when you don't need those fancy 30 to 40 dollar SureFire attachments.


----------



## psychbeat

trdsupragt said:


> I think what i'm looking for is I guess a lens, that would make the beam wider and more suitable for night cycling.
> 
> Although I have experimented with things like bottle caps and such before. Quite interesting and sometimes very handy solutions when you don't need those fancy 30 to 40 dollar SureFire attachments.



I like Scotch frosted removable tape when I want more flood on my throwier drops.


1986 Corolla GTS AE86


----------



## Roood

Hi guys, just a quick question, I currently have a SolarForce XML T6 (claims to have 800lumens) and a XPG R5 (320 lumens). I tested both on an AW 18650 and 2x CR123 SureFire. The R5 beats the T6 for some reason. Do I need to use special batteries on the T6 to get its max output?


----------



## Changchung

Hi guys, where can I find a Red Led P60 dropin 3v to 8v? Thanks


----------



## archimedes

Changchung said:


> Hi guys, where can I find a Red Led P60 dropin 3v to 8v? Thanks



Maybe check with Vinh ....

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/336190


----------



## Changchung

archimedes said:


> Maybe check with Vinh ....
> 
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/336190



Thanks, but is a little expence for me... Anything cheap???

I just think in buy a P60 module and bulld it with a red cree led that I bought years ago and a 750mah driver with a 1watt 2ohm resistor between the led and the driver...


----------



## odd

solarforce offers a red xr-e 3-18V single mode dropin for $12


----------



## Changchung

odd said:


> solarforce offers a red xr-e 3-18V single mode dropin for $12



Thanks, I just fund in DX sku 20333 the flashlight with a Philips Luxeon K2 Red P60 Dropin (1*18650/2*CR123A) for $10.40


----------



## kzb

odd said:


> solarforce offers a red xr-e 3-18V single mode dropin for $12



Has anyone reviewed these Solarforce red LEDs ? I'm thinking of getting one, but are they red, i.e crimson, or red-orange? Does anyone know what the spectral range is?


----------



## texas cop

I've used a few of these they are a deep red. The green is also middle of the road green.


----------



## kzb

texas cop said:


> I've used a few of these they are a deep red. The green is also middle of the road green.



Thanks for that. As it happens there is another thread running on about the Solarforce red LED dropin. It is said on there that it's peak wavelength is 625nm. It also says on the Night Vision forum that we need 650nm+ to preserve night vision....


----------



## Default Username

Hi. Forgive me if this is the wrong place to ask this question. I'm looking for a P60 drop-in for a cheap SolarForce L2T. Budget is around $50, though I can stretch a little bit if needed. I'd like a neutral white or warm white LED with unnoticeable PWM if possible. Having at least high and low modes would be nice, though I'd prefer a high-med-low driver with no strobe or beacon modes (though this is not a deal-breaker), and with low being 10lm or less if possible. A floody beam would be nice, but is not necessary. Note that I'd probably never use more than 300lm if this is of any help.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## Changchung

Default Username said:


> Hi. Forgive me if this is the wrong place to ask this question. I'm looking for a P60 drop-in for a cheap SolarForce L2T. Budget is around $50, though I can stretch a little bit if needed. I'd like a neutral white or warm white LED with unnoticeable PWM if possible. Having at least high and low modes would be nice, though I'd prefer a high-med-low driver with no strobe or beacon modes (though this is not a deal-breaker), and with low being 10lm or less if possible. A floody beam would be nice, but is not necessary. Note that I'd probably never use more than 300lm if this is of any help.
> Thanks in advance.



Hi, welcome to the CPF, I just buy some P60, flashlight bodies for P60 dropin and a pair of P60 empty dropin in DX, last night, checking kaidomain I realize that the same items and a better flashlight bodies are cheap in this site, also some nice P60 dropin, take a look in the Led section... Good luck


----------



## LV426

kzb said:


> Thanks for that. As it happens there is another thread running on about the Solarforce red LED dropin. It is said on there that it's peak wavelength is 625nm. It also says on the Night Vision forum that we need 650nm+ to preserve night vision....


In my experience the turquoise is the better one for night vision retention (i.e. NVG-green from Photonlight) and with a lot better color rendering than red - if only some one would make a P60-drop-in now...


----------



## Espionage Studio

odd said:


> solarforce offers a red xr-e 3-18V single mode dropin for $12



Might throw that in my C3 ;-)


----------



## kzb

LV426 said:


> In my experience the turquoise is the better one for night vision retention (i.e. NVG-green from Photonlight) and with a lot better color rendering than red - if only some one would make a P60-drop-in now...



I think we've been round the houses with this before on here. Have a look at the plot on this wikipedia page and see what wavelength of light you need to NOT stimulate your rods:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scotopic_vision


----------



## LV426

Whatever it's called, color rendering with red is horrible, and useless for anything I'll need low-low light for...
An example: http://goo.gl/icH1a

So it's, again in my experience, not only the wavelength, but also the intensity/output is a factor.


----------



## SoCalDep

Default Username said:


> Hi. Forgive me if this is the wrong place to ask this question. I'm looking for a P60 drop-in for a cheap SolarForce L2T. Budget is around $50, though I can stretch a little bit if needed. I'd like a neutral white or warm white LED with unnoticeable PWM if possible. Having at least high and low modes would be nice, though I'd prefer a high-med-low driver with no strobe or beacon modes (though this is not a deal-breaker), and with low being 10lm or less if possible. A floody beam would be nice, but is not necessary. Note that I'd probably never use more than 300lm if this is of any help.
> Thanks in advance.



Lumens Factory makes a 90-CRI P60 drop-in (they call it the D26 series). I have the single-mode in a Surefire 6P and I love it. I haven't tried the 3-mode version and I'm not sure how low the low goes but it might be something to check out. As far as I can tell Lumens Factory doesn't list the lumen output of the modules, which is a bummer because I'd like to know what my Single-mode is pushing. I love the warm tint!


----------



## hank

> Red Led P60 dropin
Several places, this finds them: https://www.google.com/search?q=cree+red+LED


----------



## mkphc

i'm looking for a drop in that is better than the nailbender neutral xml one that i have for a single 18650
any help would be appreciated


----------



## wquiles

mkphc said:


> i'm looking for a drop in that is better than the nailbender neutral xml one that i have for a single 18650
> any help would be appreciated



Better in which way?


----------



## mkphc

brighter
better run time
just wondering if technology has caught up and passed this by

or a multi led???


----------



## wquiles

mkphc said:


> brighter
> better run time
> just wondering if technology has caught up and passed this by
> 
> or a multi led???



- Brighter and better runtime are exclusive, unless you have multiple modes so that you can select a brighter level sometimes.

XML still a very good LED, but slightly higher output bin might be available now. The thing is that the increments are relatively small, and it is likely that without measuring equipment, your eye will not see a small (say 5%) output difference.

There are 3x XP-G modules available, but typically require a small (20mm) triple optic that is more floody than throwy, plus, when driven hard for good output, they get HOT very quickly, which drops the output as the LED's get less efficient.

Basically what I am saying is that there is no holly grail - every option has some compromise. If you want both much higher brightness AND better runtimes, you then need a larger platform that has more batteries AND a larger surface area to deal with the heat better, like perhaps a 26650 host.

Will


----------



## mkphc

thanks
i guess what i meant is;
is there a new drop in that is to die for, my nailbender neutral 3 mode 3.7v is the nicest color,beam,brightest light that i ever have owned (ive had tons of production lights)
OR is there some triple xpg that is a worthwhile step up?
i totally appreciate your advise on the newer bin (5%thing) its easy to go for the newest thing even when the advantage is minimal and not really worth the stretch over what you might already have


----------



## wquiles

Take a look at Mac's triple:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?340071-Copper-P60-Tri-XP-G-Modules


Will


----------



## mkphc

love to hear form someone who has one
or a link to a review ive been looking but no luck


----------



## Dankung

just curious that it's allowed to post a seller's URL?


----------



## P_A_S_1

Question on P60/P61 drop ins,
I am interested in the flood models (M60F) but was hoping a more efficient or brighter drop in was due being that the M60/M60F have been around for a while. So why is there not a M61F? I would think any LED can be used in a flood optic because the beam is dispersed anyway and using a XPG would at the least result in better runtimes.


----------



## baterija

P_A_S_1 said:


> Question on P60/P61 drop ins,
> So why is there not a M61F? I would think any LED can be used in a flood optic ...



M60 series used optics so it was simpler to have different optics in the lineup. M61 series is reflector based so a flood variant with optic would be completely separate production. M61 is already floodier than then M60 because of the use of the XP-G too. Some diffusion film is a simple answer although you lose some of the efficiency gained with the new LED>


----------



## mikekoz

I just purchased a Thrunite 460 lumen XML upgrade module from Batteryjunction for my Wolf Eyes Guider. I have had the Guider for several years and I have always loved it's interface, build quality, internal charging , etc. I just wanted to make it a little bit brighter. I put the Thrunite in the light when it arrived, and quickly learned that standard P60 sized modules do not fully fit in Wolf Eyes lights!! After I tightened the head and the light did not come on, I knew something was wrong. When I removed the drop in, the spring had bent over and part of the bottom edge was slightly damaged. I was able to bend the spring back, and the module is OK, but then I realized what the problem was. The head of the Guider had a ring that screws into it holding the glass in place. The Wolf Eyes drop-ins have a lip around the top of them that fits into this ring, and enables the front of the drop-in to be right up to the glass. The Thrunite drop-in does not have this, so its sticks out about 2mm more from the head. When I screwed the head back on the light with the Thrunite in it, it put too much pressure on the base of the drop-in. I was able to get the drop-in to work by unscrewing and removing this retaining ring. I only see a few problems with this, but I do not think they will be much of a concern. Now the front of the drop-in is putting a bit of pressure around the outer rim of the glass. I also have to be carefull when I remove the head to make sure I do not lose the glass lens or have it fall and break. I am not sure if there is a way to mod the light to get this to work another way. If there was a ring that could be screwed into the area where the head screws onto to keep it from tightening abother 2mm, that would work, but I have no clue where something like that would come from. 

This issue with Wolf Eyes lights and drop-ins is probably known to some of you, but I do not hear too much talk about these lights on the forum. It is a shame also. I think these lights, quality wise, are just as good as anything else out there, and probably better than most! I would love to hear from anybody who has a Wolf Eyes light that has run into this problem, and how you solved it.

(Note: I have this in a separate post, but it is getting very few looks, so I thought I would post it here, thinking that this is where it should have gone anyway. Somebody please let me know if I am wrong!)


----------



## Hondo

I have no experience with the Guider, but I bought a Sniper a few years ago to use with a Dereelight drop in. At the time, Dereelight was mistakenly advertising compatibility with the Wolf Eyes lights. Turns out, the Sniper, and many others, don't use a P60 module at all. No way I could use it, I am surprised that you were able to make one work. Many of the sellers, like Malkoff, specifically state that their modules are not compatible with Wolf Eyes lights.

I was lucky enough to grab one of the very last 4-mode XP-G Wolf Eyes modules from PTS before they dropped the line. At least now the Sniper is a multi-mode LED light, as I would never have used it as an incan.


----------



## ^Gurthang

Wolf Eyes was more popular some time ago and their drop-ins are not fully P60 compatible [as Mikeoz has found]. Lumens Factory and others do [in places] mention that their drop-ins are not WE compatible. I had a WE host some time ago and it is very well made but the incompatibility w/ P60 standards makes them less desirable.


----------



## Blitzwing

kzb said:


> Has anyone reviewed these Solarforce red LEDs ? I'm thinking of getting one, but are they red, i.e crimson, or red-orange? Does anyone know what the spectral range is?



I have one that I use for hunting sometimes. I have a smooth reflector on mine.







With DX aspheric for longer throw.


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe

Yes, on the Wolf Eyes subject...

I pretty much adore my Sniper for it's size, shape and build quality.

I pretty much detest it for blueish tint and PWM in the lower modes

Actually the PWM isn't THAT bad... but it REALLY goes blue in the lower modes.

And without some HEAVY modding you ain't getting a P60 in this light.


----------



## Alaskan Infidel

*Need a couple of drop in's*

I have a Surefire 6P and a 9P and I am looking to upgrade both to a really nice drop in. I have been reading good things about nailbenders products, so I am thinking that is the way to go. So that being said. I am looking for a good amount of throw and want a very bright light on both Surfires. I am a flashlight newbie and I didn't realize how technical it all is. So I am asking the group here for your reccomendations on how I should go. Thank you for your suggestions.

Thread merge - Norm


----------



## C4stickyplastic

I would like to suggest the Solarforce X-PG, i dont have the actual price but it was pretty cheap iirc.

And since you're after throw the Malkoffs (M61's etc), although incredibly well built, have good transitions between throw and spill, an even split of both and serves as a medium thrower.

The solarforce xpg has a very bright hot spot and i believe will serve your purpose better and at a very good starting price

Edit: i remember owning a Thrunite... P60 x-ml? Sorry i cant remember, but never used it due to lack of throw, it put out a lot of light, but in throwing terms, my solarforce xpg was better suited to my needs. It also has a warmish/neutral tint which my eyes enjoy very much. U can try one if u like and if it doesnt suit you, its a small loss for experience in money terms.


----------



## LV426

Anybody got the new Solarforce LC-XML U2 single mode, and can measure current pull on a single 18650?


----------



## TORCH_BOY

I have the 3 mode, about 800 ma on high, still plenty bright


----------



## texas cop

Just got in the mail the new M3 and the 2.7v-9v xm-l u2 dropin from SolarForce. Both appear to use the same driver. Beam is clean white with no yellow or green hues.
M3 gave 2.10 amps, 0.85 amps and 0.08 amps with a 3100 mah panasonic 1.82 amps, 0.89 amps and 0.15 amps with 2-3v primarys.
The dropin is single mode only and gives 2.06 amps with the panasonic and 1.55 amps with the 2-3v primarys


----------



## grass disaster

ok so i have a p9.

am looking to get a nice led to drop into it. smooth reflector for some good throw. i'm good with e-bay. looking to spend $20 or less. looks like there a million options.

i will be using it for hunting. 

can i get like a 3 mode light or would i need to get a different tail switch? i have the stock switch which is a twist style


----------



## Dplight21

In there a huge list of P60 sized led drop-ins are shared. I also add some 

60 LED COOL WHITE BULB
60 LED WARM WHITE BULB
CHROME STEEL DOWNLIGHT + 60 LED COOL WHITE BULB
GU10 60LED WARM WHITE
GU10 60, SMD3528, LED WARM WHITE

Spam links removed - Norm


----------



## Erzengel

The lights You linked, are not P60 drop ins, they are LED replacements for fixed lighting installations and Your signature is just advertising for these lights. Your post is totally inappropriate.


----------



## maybehope30

the flashlight is so useful with tactical bezel. How can I get ?


----------



## kzb

I've been told that Solarforce have discontinued the red drop-ins. They also have disappeared off their website. But the blue and green ones are still available. Can anyone confirm or deny?


----------



## P_A_S_1

Not sure if this the right place to ask but;
Going to pick up a Malkoff MD2 w/ a M61w to use for a duty light. In the past I've always used primaries but I'm contemplating a single 18650 simply because the MD2 fits it. The pros of this are longer runtimes vs CR123 x2 and lower cost over time. The cons are the initial cost (battery & charger) and improper charging/discharging hazards. Brightness/output should be the same. Do I have it right or no?


----------



## twl

P_A_S_1 said:


> Not sure if this the right place to ask but;
> Going to pick up a Malkoff MD2 w/ a M61w to use for a duty light. In the past I've always used primaries but I'm contemplating a single 18650 simply because the MD2 fits it. The pros of this are longer runtimes vs CR123 x2 and lower cost over time. The cons are the initial cost (battery & charger) and improper charging/discharging hazards. Brightness/output should be the same. Do I have it right or no?



The M61 will not remain in regulation for very long on 1 x 18650. It will start out regulated, but after a short time, it will drop off regulation and begin a very long slow taper of brightness reduction, sort of like the old unregulated lights which slowly got dimmer over hours and hours of time.
Other than that, there's no problem with doing it. You just have to be comfortable with the majority of the use being below the regulation limit, and in direct drive.


----------



## P_A_S_1

Hmm, OK. Thought it would be similar, the full out put runtime (2hrs.). Thanks.


----------



## Hondo

I'm going to disagree with twl's answer here. The older M60 had a higher low voltage at which it dropped out of regulation. We are talking about the current M61 which is rated down to 3.4 volts before losing regulation. That is one dead 18650, needs changing anyway. But you will not be left in the dark, it will still give diminishing light for a long time.

I would say, not that I have run my M61 down to the bone, I charge fairly often, that your expectation is pretty much spot on.


----------



## P_A_S_1

OK, so let me ask this. If the M61w and M61lw both have the same voltage range 3.4 - 9 and the difference is the amount of energy they draw (650ma vs 300ma) then choosing one over the other wouldn't matter in this regards because the voltage rating is the same. One just depletes the battery quicker. Is that correct?


----------



## Hondo

Correct, just a runtime vs brightness tradeoff. One could make an argument that at higher currents there is more voltage sag, and therefore you will drop out of regulation sooner. But at these drive levels, I don't think you'll find that significant.

BTW, those currents are given at 6 volts. With an 18650, it will draw more amps to get the same power to the LED.


----------



## P_A_S_1

OK, Thanks. Have a MD2 w/M61w on the way and will eventually pick up 18650s and a charger after some more reading. Appreciate the help.


----------



## tam17

Are there any lumen and candela measurements of Solarforce proprietary "LC-1" (XR-E Q4) and "LC-XML" (XM-L T6) single-mode drop-ins when powered by 1x18650? Official Solarforce info is "for reference only":thumbsdow

Cheers


----------



## thisguy

I just ordered a Malkoff M61L for my P6. Looking forward to doing the conversion. Thanks for the info.


----------



## P_A_S_1

In regards to the M61w and 18650's, I have the light and the batteries but am still waiting on a charger/volt meter from Cotonpickers so I've yet to do any real testing. I'm not sure the condition the batteries come in from the factory (partial charge, full charge) but just putting them in the MD2 to test I see no difference in high output in comparison to two cr123s. Low on the other hand is dimmer but I've read that's normal. I like the set up with the MD2 and 18650s and I'm looking forward to doing a few tests on runtimes and output.


----------



## Sam Z

I have an old Surefire 9P gen 1 or 2, it is 3 CR123A size. I purchased the Solarforce 3.7v-8.4v CREE XML 3 Mode drop in as well as the Solarforce L2-S5 tailcap and the Solarforce A001 Type III HA Head. The voltage on the drop in will be able to handle 3 CR123A correct?


----------



## fgials

What P60 pills are yall using in the Solarforce L2M or Vital Gear FB1 single cell bodies but can still be run if you wanted to use in a 18650 body or 2 primaries?


----------



## Hondo

_"I have an old Surefire 9P gen 1 or 2, it is 3 CR123A size. I purchased the Solarforce 3.7v-8.4v CREE XML 3 Mode drop in as well as the Solarforce L2-S5 tailcap and the Solarforce A001 Type III HA Head. The voltage on the drop in will be able to handle 3 CR123A correct? "

_​That voltage range is for one or two Li-Ion or two CR123A. Three CR123A's is 9 Volts, and beyond the design range. From a practical point, it may not cook the electronics when you first turn it on, it is not WAY over the design limit, but I would not expect it to handle it well for any length of time. You want a module with a voltage range of at least 9 volts for the upper limit for 3 CR123A's.

On the other hand, two 17500's would be just right for that module, and give rechargable economy. They fit in the same space as three CR123's, but can be a bit snug on diameter depending on the light, some people will end up taking the label off of the cells to get them to fit. If you have never used Lithium Ion cells, read up and use good common sense and equipment if you decide to go this way. Much cheaper in the long run, and allows you to start any given task with a full charge without generating a bunch of partially discharged cells.


----------



## Sam Z

Hondo thank you for your reply!

I will definetly look into the 17500s, that is the exact type of answer I was hoping for Thank you again!

I am new to this whole drop in thing, I was ready to write my 9P off.

I will also keep an eye out for higher voltage drop ins.


----------



## Sam Z

Hondo said:


> On the other hand, two 17500's would be just right for that module, and give rechargable economy. They fit in the same space as three CR123's, but can be a bit snug on diameter depending on the light, some people will end up taking the label off of the cells to get them to fit. If you have never used Lithium Ion cells, read up and use good common sense and equipment if you decide to go this way. Much cheaper in the long run, and allows you to start any given task with a full charge without generating a bunch of partially discharged cells.



Hondo few more questions: voltage wise on the 17500, 2 x 3.7v =7.4v would this give me the full power or full potential of the LED itself? (max. lumens)

will the 0.6v difference on regular CR123a reduce the life of the unit drastically?

does a rechargable battery effect the mode settings in a drop in? (I bought the 3 mode)

Thank you!


----------



## RandomFlyer

_"I am new to this whole drop in thing, I was ready to write my 9P off."
"I will also keep an eye out for higher voltage drop ins." _

Sam, 
Check out the Malkoff Devices M91 series drop-ins. I upgraded a Surefire Z3 (also a 3 cell light) with the warm tint version and it works great.


----------



## Hondo

Sam Z said:


> Hondo few more questions: voltage wise on the 17500, 2 x 3.7v =7.4v would this give me the full power or full potential of the LED itself? (max. lumens)
> 
> will the 0.6v difference on regular CR123a reduce the life of the unit drastically?
> 
> does a rechargable battery effect the mode settings in a drop in? (I bought the 3 mode)
> 
> Thank you!



The module is rated for cells at full charge, which is 4.2 volts, so 8.4 for a pair. You should expect full brightness and normal mode operation on that module, since you will always be running near the high end of it's input range. I can't say what will happen if you exceed that range, but common sense says that if it can still work fine at that voltage, the manufacturer would have rated it for the wider voltage range.


----------



## Sam Z

RandomFlyer, thanks for the suggestion, but a $70 price difference is hard to fathom for a new guy... 

Hondo, common sense prevailed and I obtained a couple 17500s and am happy with the results. Thank you for leading me in the right direction. Your advice and info have been invaluable.


----------



## robert.o

lighthound still has them for sale



kzb said:


> I've been told that Solarforce have discontinued the red drop-ins. They also have disappeared off their website. But the blue and green ones are still available. Can anyone confirm or deny?


----------



## AutoTech

I was really pleased with my solarforce XML drop in. It's got a great smooth beam, much better than a lot of smooth reflector flashlights I have used. Can't go wrong for the money.


----------



## Superorb

I started a thread about a dropin, any recommendations?

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?347632-Drop-In-for-1x18650-Recommendation-Please


----------



## Kokopelli

How do SolarForce led dropins do in Solarforce bodies in terms of shock resistance? I've read some dropins can't bear the recoil of a shotgun. I have many p60 sized dropins from various sources. All including Solarforce and Lumens Factory dropins have the similar sized reflector screwed on a brass pill and have a bigger and a central spring. So, what differentiates them looks like just how efficient their drivers are, how reliable the electronics are and how well they are soldered on the pill.


----------



## flashlight nut

Hey guys, I have a couple of P60 drop-in questions. I have a Thrunite XM-L 460 lm. single mode drop-in for my Surefire 6P. I read somewhere on this forum about cutting off a coil on the outer spring so the head screws down all the way. Before I do this, is there a specific way of doing this to maintain proper contact or just snip off the last coil? Also, I got the same drop-in for my buddy who wanted to upgrade his Surefire G2 Nitrolon. I had to make several attempts of screwing on the head and tailcap before the proper contact was made. I assume this was due to the polymer body. What was I doing wrong? Thanks.


----------



## Blitzwing

Kokopelli said:


> How do SolarForce led dropins do in Solarforce bodies in terms of shock resistance? I've read some dropins can't bear the recoil of a shotgun. I have many p60 sized dropins from various sources. All including Solarforce and Lumens Factory dropins have the similar sized reflector screwed on a brass pill and have a bigger and a central spring. So, what differentiates them looks like just how efficient their drivers are, how reliable the electronics are and how well they are soldered on the pill.



I have killed one Solarforce XP-G in an L2 that was mounted on the barrel of my double barrel 12g. I had it mounted on the rubber Dealextreme mount up near the muzzle. I now mount the light further down away from the muzzle and have had no further issues.


----------



## misfit1981

So I'm definitely a noob when it comes to flashlights...
I have a SureFire Z2 combat light with a malikov, with M91 engraved, drop in p60 led and SureFire brand click tailcap. 
I like the light, but I don't like running through CR123's and am considering rechargeables. 
Two part question: what are good rechargeable 123's and what is a better (brighter - good mix of flood and spot) drop in led?

often I get a flicker when the tailcap is clicked to the constant on position. what causes that - bulb or tailcap?

thanks!


----------



## jwfrazier

So, most of this info is pretty overwhelming to me. What is the best choice for a p60 or p61 model that will work for an older 2 cell G2 Nitrolon plastic light, and do most of you think it is worth it to upgrade? It seems most of the newer LED lights with 500-700 lumens might be a better choice, and maybe I should just throw the G2 in the trash?


----------



## Kokopelli

I'd never throw away my G2 Nitrolon. There are many led bulbs you can use with it and even more if you get a 17670 or 16650 battery for it.


----------



## orbital

Kokopelli said:


> I'd never throw away my G2 Nitrolon. There are many led bulbs you can use with it and even more if you get a 17670 or 16650 battery for it.



+

..with the efficiency of xpe2 & xpg2, you can drive those emitters @ only 500mA and get lots for usable light >>>> w/ no meltdown 

_add: keep an eye on Malkoff w/ something like a M61L using an xpg2_


..


----------



## orbital

+

EDCPlus and Illumination Supply


----------



## WilsonCQB1911

orbital said:


> +
> 
> EDCPlus and Illumination Supply





When will these be available again? I want one.


----------



## orbital

+

*Important to list custom drop-in builders of CPF:*

_nailbender

_oveready

_vinhnguyen54

_VanIsleDSM

_macscustoms

...more to come..


----------



## kzb

Just a heads-up to fellow deprived UK residents: a lot of P60 drop ins have appeared on Amazon UK recently, and the prices seem reasonable also. (But be prepared for some searching, because they pop up in all different departments.)

There are coloured ones, including a 5-mode 90 lumen red drop-in, and also a single mode 150 lumen (claimed) red drop in.

Many of them sold by _*Lightscastle*_. Who they? Anyhow, given the low prices I have ordered some to see what happens.


----------



## tam17

Any drop-in suggestions for a Nextorch GT6A-R/RL *nylon* 18650 host?

Heatsinking is obviously the main issue. Preferably mass-produced, floody-ish and neutral if possible (not necessarily high-CRI). OEM LED drop-in for this host is 35lm Luxeon 1 (480min on 18650), so all improvements are welcome!

Cheers


----------



## Tanner197

Hello All, 

Im a flashlight noob and I was hoping to get some much needed info from you fine gents. I recently purchased a Solarforce drop-in that boasts 820 lumens and has three modes (100% 60% and 10%). I got it for 14 bucks so I said what the hell as the original bulb in my 6P LED was going out. My first question is Solarforce a legitimate brand and will it work? The link to the bulb is as follows:

http://www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/product_detail.php?id=289&s=40&t=RB

Then in a whirl wind of buying fury I purchased tenergy rechargable 123a batteries without reading the bold letters that say "will not work with Surefire Flashlights." However the drop-in bulb info says it can use rechargables. My final question is will the whole combo work or was this a learning experience for a noobie? The link for the batteries is as follows:

http://www.tenergy.com/RCR123A-3-0V-900mAh-LiIon-Rechargeable-Battery

Thank you for your help!


----------



## scsmith

Tanner, 

Rechargeable CR123 batteries come off the charger at 3.6v-3.7v each vs. 3 volts each for primary CR123 batteries. Surefire's stock bulbs / LED replacements for 2 cell lights are rated for 6v max (2xCR123 x 3v = 6v). The Solarforce pill you linked will handle up to 8.4v, so it will handle the 7.2v-7.4v that a pair of RCR123 batteries (like the Tenergy batteries you ordered) will put out. At this point your Surefire 6P is just a host - a body tube, head, and tail cap/switch - to hold the Solarforce pill and the Tenergy RCR123 cells. You'll be fine.


----------



## chaos215bar2

WilsonCQB1911 said:


> When will these be available again? I want one.



They're available now.


----------



## kzb

kzb said:


> Just a heads-up to fellow deprived UK residents: a lot of P60 drop ins have appeared on Amazon UK recently, and the prices seem reasonable also. (But be prepared for some searching, because they pop up in all different departments.)
> 
> There are coloured ones, including a 5-mode 90 lumen red drop-in, and also a single mode 150 lumen (claimed) red drop in.
> 
> Many of them sold by _*Lightscastle*_. Who they? Anyhow, given the low prices I have ordered some to see what happens.



I'll reply to my own post now I've received the items to let other UK people know.
First the good news: all three drop-ins I ordered arrived in good time and well before the Amazon-stated delivery date of 11 April. Direct from China.

All work, in that they light up. After this it gets more negative. 
The 800+ lumen white P60, well that output is a wild exaggeration IMHO. I've no instrumentation to actually measure it, but I would put it nearer 200 lumen by comparison with other lights I own. For example, it is noticeably less bright than my 320 lumen Olight.
The 150 lumen red P60 is hardly brighter than the 90 lumen one, plus it seems more orange than red. (This one was not Lightscastle BTW).
The 5-mode red P60 only has one mode, and output identical to the red drop in I already own (90 lumen). Maybe someone can advise on this: do I need anything else to get the modes to work? It is in a Ultrafire 501.


----------



## Joe88XJ

Thanks Fizz for all the great information!! I am a newbie here looking for info on modding a luxeon LED streamlight tlr-2....anybody who can help would be much appreciated!


----------



## tugsus

My head hurts from info overload and I still can't find the answer.

What drop in will fit a G2L Nitrolon?

I would like to be around 200 lumens.

I tried one from Lighthound (LHCREESF) and I could not screw down the bezel.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## JCD

tugsus said:


> My head hurts from info overload and I still can't find the answer.
> 
> What drop in will fit a G2L Nitrolon?
> 
> I would like to be around 200 lumens.
> 
> I tried one from Lighthound (LHCREESF) and I could not screw down the bezel.
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Did you try removing the outer spring? Sometimes that allows the bezel to screw down completely. Sometimes it also prevents the drop-in from activating. In such cases, the outer spring can be trimmed, which will sometimes allow the spring to be used and the bezel to screw down most/all the way.


----------



## jorn

kzb said:


> I'll reply to my own post now I've received the items to let other UK people know.
> First the good news: all three drop-ins I ordered arrived in good time and well before the Amazon-stated delivery date of 11 April. Direct from China.
> 
> All work, in that they light up. After this it gets more negative.
> The 800+ lumen white P60, well that output is a wild exaggeration IMHO. I've no instrumentation to actually measure it, but I would put it nearer 200 lumen by comparison with other lights I own. For example, it is noticeably less bright than my 320 lumen Olight.
> The 150 lumen red P60 is hardly brighter than the 90 lumen one, plus it seems more orange than red. (This one was not Lightscastle BTW).
> The 5-mode red P60 only has one mode, and output identical to the red drop in I already own (90 lumen). Maybe someone can advise on this: do I need anything else to get the modes to work? It is in a Ultrafire 501.



You are prob comparing lux numbers. A 300 lumen p60 will have a brighter hotspot than a 800 lumen. The smaller leds focus better in a small reflector, so the hotspot will be brighter (more lux), but will have less overall output (lumens).


----------



## kzb

jorn said:


> You are prob comparing lux numbers. A 300 lumen p60 will have a brighter hotspot than a 800 lumen. The smaller leds focus better in a small reflector, so the hotspot will be brighter (more lux), but will have less overall output (lumens).



Hi Jorn I've been slightly more scientific than that. I've aimed both lights at the same position of the ceiling and alternated switching them on and off, while staring at the walls. I agree it is difficult to judge when you have different hot spots and beam patterns. However I can say the drop-in is less bright in the ceiling reflection test than my 320 lumen Olight, and about the same as a P7 Led Lenser (170 lumen). The beam range is slightly better for the drop-in versus the Olight, because it has a more focussed hot spot, but no better than the LL (which you can focus).

I am wondering if it is something to do with the driver in the Ultrafire 501B body. Maybe it can't supply enough current?


----------



## GlocksRock

I'm looking for a drop in for my older G2 Nitrolon that will maintain constant output and not dim as the batteries deplete, which ones do that, if any?


----------



## DellSuperman

GlocksRock said:


> I'm looking for a drop in for my older G2 Nitrolon that will maintain constant output and not dim as the batteries deplete, which ones do that, if any?



AFAIK, most drivers will dim off after prolonged usage & it's a good sign for us to change the battery soon. 

As for the G2, get a drop in that won't produce too much heat if not your host might melt. 
I personally like the XML series of emitters, so I'm using a XM-L driven at 1.4A in my G2 with a single 17650 & aluminum bezel. 
So far so good... 

If not, get a Malkoff with a "L" or more.. 
The standard & high output versions are not recommended.. 
But still, their dropins will have a slow drop in light output after prolonged usage. 
I also have a M61WL in my G2Z, so far so good. 

- JonK


----------



## sol-leks

I'm interested in a cheap XM-l drop-in. How are the solarforce U2 drop-ins?


----------



## Kokopelli

Although the only dropin from Solarforce I had was a 1-4.2V XPG 3 Mode I guess I can comment on how SF dropins work. 3 mode 3V dropin was unique for its price and was quite bright and clean too. The only downside with it was that it had an apparent PWM on its lower modes. 

I am also thinking of getting one 9V XML dropin from Solarforce. I believe there will be PWM again as T1 and T2 lights I recently got from them had a low frequency PWM on lower modes. Still, would be a decent one unless you want the highest output available from it. 

Intl Outdoor has a new dropin with its own QLITE 8x7135 = >3A driver with selectable modes including moonlight mode. It can have cool-neutral-high CRI options and then have latest Xml2 emitters. I have one on the way. It is only a 4.5v max dropin, though.


----------



## sol-leks

Thanks for the insight. I want something that can run 2xcr123 so I am primarily interested in the solarforce drop-in.


----------



## Blitzwing

sol-leks said:


> I'm interested in a cheap XM-l drop-in. How are the solarforce U2 drop-ins?



They are fine and plenty bright, with a tight hotspot with the smooth reflector. I get the 2.7-9V for folks at work who want a decent budget light. In an L2M, L2P or L2T body. Seem comparable to my three mode Ultrafire T6 dropin, and my two mode Intl-outdoor (the driver in which I find plenty annoying...)


----------



## sol-leks

Thanks, I think I am going to go for it.


----------



## Kokopelli

I really would like to hear your thoughts on PWM in these 9v Solarforce dropins. My T1 has a low PWM frequency on low. I'm happy with the high output mode in fact.


----------



## Kokopelli

Maybe a heads up, I just got my single mode 3-18v SMO XM-L2 drop in from KaiDomain. It was around $8.50 so a very inexpensive one. I must state here that with the help of adjusted SMO reflector on this drop-in and a well made focus, this is the most throwy XML dropin I've ever had. Works decent with a single cell lithium ion but much better with 2xCR123 or 2X18650. Draws around 1.2A with two 18650, so I guess only 2A max on the emitter. Still has a very balanced economy for a single mode light. 




---
Kokopelli, Istanbul, Turkey


----------



## recDNA

Is there a good very inexpensive xpg2 p60? I would prefer a 2 amp high and a low of some kind. I don't want medium but would tolerate it. Anything with blinky modes excluded even if it is free! My favorite voltage choice would be 2 - 6 volts. 

Thanks! 

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2


----------



## DellSuperman

recDNA said:


> Is there a good very inexpensive xpg2 p60? I would prefer a 2 amp high and a low of some kind. I don't want medium but would tolerate it. Anything with blinky modes excluded even if it is free! My favorite voltage choice would be 2 - 6 volts.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2



DIY if you dont mind. Or look for Vinh, he will hook u up with something that will match ur needs. 

- JonK


----------



## SR.GRINGO

Trying to decide between a Nailbender mule vs. Mac's Customs Tri XP-E2.

My host is a 26650 Cooly from Varooj. 

The light will be used in a 4x4 for camping, boating, etc.

I currently run two other Cooly's one has Mac's Tri XPG, and the other is Nailbender's 90+ CRI both awesome.


----------



## DellSuperman

SR.GRINGO said:


> Trying to decide between a Nailbender mule vs. Mac's Customs Tri XP-E2.
> 
> My host is a 26650 Cooly from Varooj.
> 
> The light will be used in a 4x4 for camping, boating, etc.
> 
> I currently run two other Cooly's one has Mac's Tri XPG, and the other is Nailbender's 90+ CRI both awesome.



Both have very different purposes. 
If i were you, I'll go for the mule since u should be cover in the throw aspect. 
The mule would be a very great close range tool & with a 26650, it should last you pretty long. 

- JonK


----------



## SR.GRINGO

Thanks Jon....I can't decide if I need another Flood(have a couple of EDC's)

Tonight it was super windy in the yard and a tree came down...it was the FM85 I grabbed. Part of me wants something geared towards more throw with lots of penetration.


----------



## psychbeat

^^^
My dedomed XML2 module Vinh made me with a SMO reflector throws quite well. 
It's still a buncha lumens too.


----------



## SR.GRINGO

psychbeat said:


> ^^^
> My dedomed XML2 module Vinh made me with a SMO reflector throws quite well.
> It's still a buncha lumens too.



Thanks Psychbeat...I have been reading about these "dedomed" modules---sounds interesting.


----------



## DogLeg

Does anyone know of a P60 host with a right-angle head? 
Preferably 2xCR123a or 18650


----------



## Red Leader

Has anyone seen an XM-L2 P60 as a low-voltage drop-in? I'm looking for something around .8-4.2V that could handle AAs as well. I remember seeing something on Thrunite in their webstore but then that option disappeared. 

Thanks!


----------



## SDmtnbkr

What's a good p60 drop for a two primaries (CR123's) light that? It will be mostly for outdoor camping use so the brighter the better!


----------



## DellSuperman

SDmtnbkr said:


> What's a good p60 drop for a two primaries (CR123's) light that? It will be mostly for outdoor camping use so the brighter the better!



Malkoff M61 series can run up to 3 primary or 2 rechargeables. 
Get the standard or high output for brighter light buy lower runtime. 

- JonK


----------



## SDmtnbkr

DellSuperman said:


> Malkoff M61 series can run up to 3 primary or 2 rechargeables.
> Get the standard or high output for brighter light buy lower runtime.
> 
> - JonK



So does 2 rechargeables mean RCR123's? ...sorry, super new to this game, trying to get a solid light to take backpacking around the world on a year long trip. So rechargeables would be WAY better than carrying 50lbs of batteries, lol!


----------



## Hondo

Yes, RCR123 is the rechargeable equivalent to CR123's. They also have a peak voltage of 4.2 volts each, when full, hence why you can only use two in series in that drop in, vs three of the 3 volt CR123's.


----------



## HitFactor

I'm looking to get more life out of my G2's. Generally they are used for tracking deer and when field dressing. A dim mode would be useful for getting setup in a blind before day break.

My vision is a little red/green deficient, is there a tint that would help me see blood better?


----------



## DellSuperman

HitFactor said:


> I'm looking to get more life out of my G2's. Generally they are used for tracking deer and when field dressing. A dim mode would be useful for getting setup in a blind before day break.
> 
> My vision is a little red/green deficient, is there a tint that would help me see blood better?



A Malkoff M61LL or LLL will be pretty dim & should meet your needs. 
However, I have no experience with tints to fit color deficiency. 
If you have been using the G2 all these while, does that mean that you have been using the stock P60 lamp? 
Are you comfortable with it? 
If yes, go for the M61 Warm or Neutral tint. 
They should be pretty close to the incan tint. 

- JonK


----------



## carl

I don't know much about drop-ins but here goes (I've looked at various makers but don't see a package which includes all of my choices). 

I am looking for a P60 drop-in to be run with 1x18650 as follows:

1) Single XML 
2) Moonlight (10 lumens or less), Low, Medium, High (4 levels total)
3) Running between 3.5 - 4.5 amps at max.
4) Always starts on Moonlite mode.
5) Removable/Desolderable XML for easy future replacement.
6) Copper drop-in shell.

Thanks


----------



## Hondo

I don't think you can get closer than one of Nailbender's here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...white-XRE-XPE-XPG-XML-U3-NICHIA-92CRI-PART-11

His 4-mode with moonlight will have memory, not default to moon, though. And he uses copper sink pads now, but the pill body is still aluminum. You just need to order without potting to have full access to the driver, but I think even while potted, the LED may be able to be replaced, but check with Nailbender in his thread if you are interested.


----------



## carl

thanks Hondo!


----------



## DellSuperman

Potting or not, changing of emitters would require u to remove the MCPCB, which is usually held by thermal compound. 
The potting is usually on the driver side of the pill only. 

- JonK


----------



## Theron

DellSuperman said:


> Malkoff M61 series can run up to 3 primary or 2 rechargeables.
> Get the standard or high output for brighter light buy lower runtime.
> 
> - JonK



I think some drop-ins only go up to 6V, so two CR123As or one standard RCR123. Two LiFePO4 RCR123As may work though.


----------



## scaredofthedark

Can you point me to a dropin with tir??? I found nailbender used to have xre with two optic choices but he doesnt offer that anymore.....nichia 219 with tir would beeven better. And i dont trust myself to diy....this will be going in my duty light....i need something quality. Thanks for any help


----------



## DellSuperman

IIRC, Malkoff M60 series uses optics & not reflector. 
Btw, why do you specifically wanna get a TIR dropin? 

- JonK


----------



## scaredofthedark

Higher efficiency i believe they are 85%+ generally. and i like the spot on it more. It seems to me they are like the tech advancement majority of manufacuters havent got on board with besides sirefire


----------



## Leonidimus

Are there inexpensive low-voltage XP-G2 drop-ins on the market? It's time to upgrade my 2xAA hosts, but I could only find Dereelight modules for ~ $30. Solarforce is stuck with old XP-G's...


----------



## DaisyJaime01

what flashlight should I buy, what's the battery will be nice, what flashlight can be used in outside?


----------



## DaisyJaime01

what is Malkoff M60


----------



## DellSuperman

Leonidimus said:


> Are there inexpensive low-voltage XP-G2 drop-ins on the market? It's time to upgrade my 2xAA hosts, but I could only find Dereelight modules for ~ $30. Solarforce is stuck with old XP-G's...


Imo, the extra lumen from a XP-G to XP-G2 is negligible.. Not worth it to upgrade it. 
Most of my P60 dropin are still using the older XML emitters & i cannot say I see a increase in brightness as compared to my XM-L2 lights. 
And the cheapest way is to DIY, if not i don't think u can go below $30.



DaisyJaime01 said:


> what flashlight should I buy, what's the battery will be nice, what flashlight can be used in outside?


You should probably post this at the 'Recommend me a flashlight' sub forum. 



DaisyJaime01 said:


> what is Malkoff M60


M60 is a dropin for P60 flashlight host.

- JonK


----------



## Leonidimus

DellSuperman said:


> Imo, the extra lumen from a XP-G to XP-G2 is negligible.. Not worth it to upgrade it.
> Most of my P60 dropin are still using the older XML emitters & i cannot say I see a increase in brightness as compared to my XM-L2 lights.
> And the cheapest way is to DIY, if not i don't think u can go below $30.
> - JonK


I don't really need crazy lumens from an AA light, but 20% efficacy increase is enough incentive for me 
Never tried a DIY P60 but I guess it can be a fun project. What's the best one-stop shopping for P60 parts?


----------



## Sofastreamer

anyone knowing a drop in with xp-g or even better xp-g2 with firefly first and no memory? should run with 3xaaa...


----------



## DellSuperman

Leonidimus said:


> I don't really need crazy lumens from an AA light, but 20% efficacy increase is enough incentive for me
> Never tried a DIY P60 but I guess it can be a fun project. What's the best one-stop shopping for P60 parts?



Emitters from International-Outdoor; copper MCPCB! 
AMC 7135 drivers from Kaidomain, i like their modes better over the regular ones. You can get the blank dropin there as well. 
Rest of stuff, like thermal glue, wires, i get them locally. 



Sofastreamer said:


> anyone knowing a drop in with xp-g or even better xp-g2 with firefly first and no memory? should run with 3xaaa...



Look for Vinh, he can hook u up with something..

- JonK


----------



## kosPap

Sofastreamer said:


> anyone knowing a drop in with xp-g or even better xp-g2 with firefly first and no memory? should run with 3xaaa...



I think the Kaidoamin 7135-series drivers can cover yuor demands. 
They have a firefly mode at start, and a provision to switch memmeory on/off.

But i really do not knwo if theyyour 3AAAs can handle the laod of 8x7135 chips.
But you can ahve the drivers with less or even deactivate as many chips as you wish


----------



## Ssanders224

Hey guys, I'm new here... and already have some questions, ha.

I recently jumped into the P60 world, and bought a Solarforce L2T and Solarforce XML2 drop-in.
It came in yesterday, and first of all, I was SUPER impressed with the SF L2T host. Especially for the $12 I paid.

As for the drop-in, well, its pretty nice.
I think the 600 lumen rating is somewhat inflated, as my SL Protac HL (600 lm) puts out noticeably more light. Also, the SF XML2 drop in is definitely not as "white" as my Protac HL, or my LA Police Gear L1. Both of wich are XML lights. Id say the the SF XML2 looks to be around 4000k... maybe 4500k. I wasnt expecting this. It is also VERY floody IMO. More so than the Protac HL wich also has an OP reflector.

Overall, it is a nice light, but I was hoping for more ouput and a higher k rating. Honestly, for about $20 more, the Protac HL kicks its butt in almost every way.

Would it be possible to replace the driver on this dropin? The beam profile is floody, but very nice. I'd be happy with it if it just kicked out a little more light.


----------



## DellSuperman

Ssanders224 said:


> Hey guys, I'm new here... and already have some questions, ha.
> 
> I recently jumped into the P60 world, and bought a Solarforce L2T and Solarforce XML2 drop-in.
> It came in yesterday, and first of all, I was SUPER impressed with the SF L2T host. Especially for the $12 I paid.
> 
> As for the drop-in, well, its pretty nice.
> I think the 600 lumen rating is somewhat inflated, as my SL Protac HL (600 lm) puts out noticeably more light. Also, the SF XML2 drop in is definitely not as "white" as my Protac HL, or my LA Police Gear L1. Both of wich are XML lights. Id say the the SF XML2 looks to be around 4000k... maybe 4500k. I wasnt expecting this. It is also VERY floody IMO. More so than the Protac HL wich also has an OP reflector.
> 
> Overall, it is a nice light, but I was hoping for more ouput and a higher k rating. Honestly, for about $20 more, the Protac HL kicks its butt in almost every way.
> 
> Would it be possible to replace the driver on this dropin? The beam profile is floody, but very nice. I'd be happy with it if it just kicked out a little more light.



Quite possibly is that the Solarforce dropin is running at a low current, hence the lower output. But runtime on that dropin will be pretty good. 

Do u have experience with soldering & have a soldering equipment? If yes, check out AMC7135 drivers (available at Kaidomain or FastTech or Dealextreme). They run on a single Li-ion cell, selectable modes & if u can stack more chips, u can increase the current draw for more output. 

If not, u may wanna check out Vinh or Nailbender & get a drop in from them for a start. 

- JonK


----------



## DellSuperman

kosPap said:


> I think the Kaidoamin 7135-series drivers can cover yuor demands.
> They have a firefly mode at start, and a provision to switch memmeory on/off.
> 
> But i really do not knwo if theyyour 3AAAs can handle the laod of 8x7135 chips.
> But you can ahve the drivers with less or even deactivate as many chips as you wish



I think 3 AAA might be able to take 1.2 to 1.5A, but definitely not 3A..
Anyway, 1.5A for XPG or XP-G2 will throw out decent amount of light... 

- JonK


----------



## Ssanders224

DellSuperman said:


> Quite possibly is that the Solarforce dropin is running at a low current, hence the lower output. But runtime on that dropin will be pretty good.
> 
> Do u have experience with soldering & have a soldering equipment? If yes, check out AMC7135 drivers (available at Kaidomain or FastTech or Dealextreme). They run on a single Li-ion cell, selectable modes & if u can stack more chips, u can increase the current draw for more output.
> 
> If not, u may wanna check out Vinh or Nailbender & get a drop in from them for a start.
> 
> - JonK



Soldering is no problem. 

I will check out the AMC7135. I want to be able to run (2)cr123s though.
I do like the H/M/L with memory on the SF drop-in. The runtime is a good point. I don't want to turn it into a 20 minute light.

I am going to build a "thrower" p60 out of one of Nailbenders drop-ins soon, but I would like to keep this one as a "flood", just need a little more juice out of it.


----------



## DellSuperman

Ssanders224 said:


> Soldering is no problem.
> 
> I will check out the AMC7135. I want to be able to run (2)cr123s though.
> I do like the H/M/L with memory on the SF drop-in. The runtime is a good point. I don't want to turn it into a 20 minute light.
> 
> I am going to build a "thrower" p60 out of one of Nailbenders drop-ins soon, but I would like to keep this one as a "flood", just need a little more juice out of it.



Hmm, the one that can do 6V (2 CR123) is available at FastTech or Dealextreme. And it can only do LMH w/ memory. 

- JonK


----------



## Ssanders224

DellSuperman said:


> Hmm, the one that can do 6V (2 CR123) is available at FastTech or Dealextreme. And it can only do LMH w/ memory.
> 
> - JonK



Thanks for the help.
I found a couple at fasttech that are up to 6v input... But going to have to study it a little more to figure out which one I need.
Is it pretty easy to change? 

Whats the best way to measure how many amps my current driver is pulling?


----------



## DellSuperman

Ssanders224 said:


> Thanks for the help.
> I found a couple at fasttech that are up to 6v input... But going to have to study it a little more to figure out which one I need.
> Is it pretty easy to change?
> 
> Whats the best way to measure how many amps my current driver is pulling?



Changing, yes.. Just desolder & remove existing driver. From under that driver, desolder the wires.
After that, its just the reversing the process to put in the new one. 

The most common way to measure current draw is to use a multimeter, change the probe to the maximum current point(usually its marked as unfused). Remove the tailcap & probe the battery & the side of the host to complete the connection.
If still unsure, google it. 
Im sure u will be able to find some things off the web. 

- JonK


----------



## Ssanders224

DellSuperman said:


> Changing, yes.. Just desolder & remove existing driver. From under that driver, desolder the wires.
> After that, its just the reversing the process to put in the new one.
> 
> The most common way to measure current draw is to use a multimeter, change the probe to the maximum current point(usually its marked as unfused). Remove the tailcap & probe the battery & the side of the host to complete the connection.
> If still unsure, google it.
> Im sure u will be able to find some things off the web.
> 
> - JonK



Sounds good. 

I will have to look at the SF dropin closer when I get home today. It was apparent how to get the dropin appart just by glancing at it. 
I wish somone had an exploded view of the dropin, so I could see what all the parts are, and how they go together.


----------



## DellSuperman

Mate, google cree wiki & they have an article on P60 

- JonK


----------



## Ssanders224

DellSuperman said:


> Mate, google cree wiki & they have an article on P60
> 
> - JonK



Found the DIY P60 on wiki right after I posted.
Alot simpler than I thought! 

Sorry for cluttering up the thread.


----------



## RichS

Is anyone aware of someone who will build a 3x or 4x XP-G2 P60 dropin at the moment? I asked vinh, but he doesn't do multi-LED P60 modules. Mac is not currently responding to email.

Any ideas?


----------



## archimedes

RichS said:


> Is anyone aware of someone who will build a 3x or 4x XP-G2 P60 dropin at the moment? I asked vinh, but he doesn't do multi-LED P60 modules. Mac is not currently responding to email.
> 
> Any ideas?



I think that *Vinz* has done a few of these, but they sell quick (& I don't think he takes orders in advance). His dropins are also fitted for Solar Force hosts, and not generic "P60"-sized.

EDIT - link, for reference ...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/366083


----------



## orbital

+

Solarforce convex _diffuser _lens






__________________ ^ likely standard 'pill' threads as with other drop-ins


----------



## RichS

archimedes said:


> I think that *Vinz* has done a few of these, but they sell quick (& I don't think he takes orders in advance). His dropins are also fitted for Solar Force hosts, and not generic "P60"-sized.
> 
> EDIT - link, for reference ...
> 
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/366083



Thanks Arch. I would like to fit one into an Oveready host, so I would like one that is more suited to a generic P60 host.

So no one else currently making P60 multi-LED drop-ins to order??


----------



## DellSuperman

OverReady should have some triples, unless they are sold out as well.


----------



## RichS

DellSuperman said:


> OverReady should have some triples, unless they are sold out as well.



Thanks - yep, looked there and they are out of stock. I would actually like to get a 4 x XPG2 drop-in if I had my choice, but they only carry triples. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## DellSuperman

RichS said:


> Thanks - yep, looked there and they are out of stock. I would actually like to get a 4 x XPG2 drop-in if I had my choice, but they only carry triples. Thanks for the reply.



Google for Kerberos quad.


----------



## lite brite

Looking for a new drop in for my Surefire C2, It's been bored out am I'm using an AW 18650 in it..it is my Defense light and nightstand light..looking for a 3 mode with memory to put in it..would like to be $40 or under..brighter the better..anyone have any suggestions for me? I have been away from the game for awhile! Thanks Steve


----------



## DellSuperman

Vinh can do one for about less than 50 & u can choose ur emitter type, tint & driver options. 
I'm sure his quality of work will make up for the little extra that you pay for..


----------



## lite brite

Thanks Dell!


DellSuperman said:


> Vinh can do one for about less than 50 & u can choose ur emitter type, tint & driver options.
> I'm sure his quality of work will make up for the little extra that you pay for..


----------



## Kamerat

I'm looking for a high output single mode drop-in. The drop-in will be used in a 3-cell Elzetta host. Runtime is not important as I will be using momentary/Rotary tailcap switch. Voltage could be 5,5-12 volts. I would like solid brass or other good heat sink. As high out the front lumens as possible, more than 600 would be good. HDS throw/flood would be good, a little bit more throw than flood. Looking forward to ideas!


----------



## Xacto

Kamerat said:


> I'm looking for a high output single mode drop-in. The drop-in will be used in a 3-cell Elzetta host.



Interesting question - I wonder how the beampattern will look since the Elzetta head would block parts of the dropin reflector. In addition you will need some sort of lens. Nonethesless I too would be interested in an option other than the Malkoffs.

Cheers
Thorsten


----------



## Kamerat

Xacto said:


> Interesting question - I wonder how the beampattern will look since the Elzetta head would block parts of the dropin reflector. In addition you will need some sort of lens. Nonethesless I too would be interested in an option other than the Malkoffs.
> 
> Cheers
> Thorsten



That is not a problem I think. I'm using a Malkoff M61 (219) now with a lens kit - works perfectly. My problem is the lack of out the front lumens. I want something that throws further and lights up more. A Don McLeish reflector can also work. 

If I cannot get the above: Have anyone tried the SPORTAC P60 Nichia 219 CRI 92 1224 Lumen LED Drop-in (no reflector)?


----------



## Kamerat

I'm looking for a high output single mode drop-in. The drop-in will be used in a 3-cell Elzetta host. Runtime is not important as I will be using momentary/Rotary tailcap switch. Voltage could be 5,5-12 volts. I would like solid brass or other good heat sink. As high out the front lumens as possible, more than 600 would be good. HDS/Don McLeish throw/flood would be good, a little bit more throw than flood. 

Thank for all help! 

Edit: would my best bet be a Malkoff M91A?


----------



## LV426

I'm looking for a neutral(?) d/i for a friend who is a combat medic: single mode 200lm or 2-mode low-low + some 200lm. Any ideas?


----------



## psychbeat

LV426 said:


> I'm looking for a neutral(?) d/i for a friend who is a combat medic: single mode 200lm or 2-mode low-low + some 200lm. Any ideas?



I'd check customlites.com (or order from the sales thread here ) for a Nichia 219 2mode with LOP reflector. 

It might be a bit more than 200 lumens on hi and the 2 mode is just a regular Lo but I'm sure you could ask them (Nailbender/Dave) to remove a couple of resistors to drop the output a bit. 

I have one of his 2mode 219s & it's been awesome!


----------



## Gloh

Just wondering if someone can help clarify something for me.

Just for P60 drop ins like XM-L2 U2, it says voltage 2.7V - 9V. Does that mean it can run using batteries that have voltages anywhere in that range? What types of batteries are compatible with this drop in?


----------



## Blitzwing

Yes.

A single 18650, pair of CR123's, RCR123's or a pair of 18650's, generally.


----------



## Gloh

Blitzwing said:


> Yes.
> 
> A single 18650, pair of CR123's, RCR123's or a pair of 18650's, generally.



Thanks blitzwing!
One more thing.
I was looking at a Solarforce drop-in
LC-XML T6 (3.7v) and it says not to use
CR123A (3v) or rechargeable batteries (3.0v or 3.7v).

Does this mean I can't use 18650s?

Does it change if I buy the drop in with the rating 3.7v - 8.4v?

Cheers


----------



## Blitzwing

The lower voltage dropins are suitable for one 18650 only.

If you run two CR123's the voltage is 3.0v x2 so 6v. Or two 18650 or rcr123's = 3.7v x2 so 7.4v.

If you might want to run two batteries, that being two cr123's or a pair of 18650's with an extender, get a dropin that can take the higher voltage.


----------



## Kamerat

Xacto said:


> Interesting question - I wonder how the beampattern will look since the Elzetta head would block parts of the dropin reflector. In addition you will need some sort of lens. Nonethesless I too would be interested in an option other than the Malkoffs.
> 
> Cheers
> Thorsten



I got a good tip from Jørn. He suggested the old Malkoff M90. Old drop in with Cree mc-e led. Flood tir optics around 500 lumen. Not very good throw though.


----------



## vic2367

I'm looking for a high output single mode drop-in FOR MY SF G2 ..triple LED setup ..


----------



## supra1988t

Eagletac Sporttac triple. Comes in XPG2 or Nichia 219, single mode only.


----------



## aussiebuddha

I'm looking for a single and double battery XML2 dropin.
is there anything else out there?

Ideally, it should be able to be driven on 1xlifepo4 too, but i'm not too fussed.

any recommendations? anything from Kaidomain? DX? that is decent?

Thanks


----------



## LanWolf

supra1988t said:


> Eagletac Sporttac triple. Comes in XPG2 or Nichia 219, single mode only.



Can that run long without heating up to much in a solarforce l2n or l2t head ?
Would love the tripple nichia i think, and wich model is recomended, they have a surefire and an 18650 model, last one is pretty straight in stead of tapered


----------



## BuDn3kkID

Like LanWolf, I'm interested in the EagleTac SportTac triple Nichia219 drop-in, but instead of using the SolarForce L2N or L2T, thinking of using it in the P1 instead. Anyone have any experience with this or know whether it's ok?
Thanks!


----------



## LanWolf

I think, due to the p1 not beeing bare metal on the outside, it will have more problems with heat, because normally, holding a light in your hand will lead the heat away. 

I have an A001 head incoming, and if i buy the triple, i think i use the A001 (with a B6 bezel) for it.


----------



## AMD64Blondie

Will my Malkoff M61L run dimmer on 1 17670 than on 2 CR123A batteries?


----------



## downlinx

Would the Eagletac Sporttac triple be better ran off of one or multiple 18650 batteries?


----------



## nrtv20

downlinx said:


> Would the Eagletac Sporttac triple be better ran off of one or multiple 18650 batteries?


Full lumens from 8.4-9v. Would be perfect with 2 18650's


----------



## KITROBASKIN

downlinx said:


> Would the Eagletac Sporttac triple be better ran off of one or multiple 18650 batteries?



Even though I could not do a direct comparison, my eyes could not tell if the 2 18650 option was brighter; it is that close. Of course you can get longer runtime and there are others more expert who can discuss other reasons. For me, the single battery is preferred for safety, simplicity, and carry ability. This is an XPG2 triple. Sometimes I use a dummy cell and a 123 primary for a reduced light level room filler; Runs a long time.


----------



## BuDn3kkID

I ordered EagTac's P60-compatible Triple-Nichia 219 drop-in, and ahould be on its way to me soon.
I was wondering, would Oveready's Moddoolar custom hosts fit it?


----------



## KITROBASKIN

BuDn3kkID said:


> I ordered EagTac's P60-compatible Triple-Nichia 219 drop-in, and ahould be on its way to me soon.
> I was wondering, would Oveready's Moddoolar custom hosts fit it?



Not sure what custom hosts you are talking about, but the Oveready interface and adapter will allow you to use standard P60 engines. They are great tools.


----------



## BuDn3kkID

Thanks for replying, I'm thinking of combining one of Moddoolar's Cell tube with a C-series interface (for P60 dropins). That'll work, right?
Still new at this… trying to grasp the concept of individual flashlight parts.


----------



## Xacto

I received my Eagletac Sporttac triple. Nichia 219, Surefire Host yesterday. Perfect fit inside my Surefire 6P, the flood is just amazing, the tint is great, nearly blew my Elzetta with the Malkoff flood "out of the water" (living room in this case). Surely not my last one, but.... since I am not very well versed when it comes to volts and ampere - can that dropin be safely used with 2xCR123 high quality (=Panasonic) primaries? I haven't found an answer so far, since most discussions center around 18650(?) rechargeables.

Thanks in advance.

Thorsten


----------



## KITROBASKIN

BuDn3kkID said:


> Thanks for replying, I'm thinking of combining one of Moddoolar's Cell tube with a C-series interface (for P60 dropins). That'll work, right?
> Still new at this… trying to grasp the concept of individual flashlight parts.



Sportac dropins for Surefire flashlights seem to work with the most hosts. The straight walled dropin is more for the SolarForce type hosts, but may work with the Oveready fare. You can always ask the Oveready Team on their section on this forum. Hopefully someone here will provide the answer as well.


----------



## KITROBASKIN

Xacto said:


> I received my Eagletac Sporttac triple. Nichia 219, Surefire Host yesterday. Perfect fit inside my Surefire 6P, the flood is just amazing, the tint is great, nearly blew my Elzetta with the Malkoff flood "out of the water" (living room in this case). Surely not my last one, but.... since I am not very well versed when it comes to volts and ampere - can that dropin be safely used with 2xCR123 high quality (=Panasonic) primaries? I haven't found an answer so far, since most discussions center around 18650(?) rechargeables.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Thorsten



On the outside of the film canister that your Sportac dropin came in, is the voltage range. The CR123 batteries are a nominal 3 volts. Two together in series is 6 volts. That falls within the range that this dropin can handle. Amps are not a problem. Good quality batteries are always a good idea. Since I am not an expert I do not fool around with the cheap stuff. Other members may be able to provide guidance regarding economy cells. Also, the battery section on CPF provides a wealth on info.


----------



## elsayedhussin

how do you think the options Lighthound has in stock compare to the Lumensfactory models?


----------



## NtEzyBeingGreen

LanWolf said:


> I think, due to the p1 not beeing bare metal on the outside, it will have more problems with heat, because normally, holding a light in your hand will lead the heat away.
> 
> I have an A001 head incoming, and if i buy the triple, i think i use the A001 (with a B6 bezel) for it.



Where were you able to find an A001 head? I am having a lot of trouble locating one, after seeing one on your Solarforce L series in another thread!


----------



## LanWolf

They are no longer for sale, i was lucky to find one,I bought it localy here in the netherlands. At that time there was also a n us bases shop who had left a few. I believe it was customlite


----------



## Stainz

I added a <$10 "Surefire Bulb Replacement Drop-in Upgrade - 650 Lumens - Cree XML T-6 -P60 Style" to an Amazon order recently. My car light was a 6P with a P60L in it - until it and my GPS, etc, were borrowed from my Jeep - in front of my house (I moved!). I had ~$62 new total in the pair - and put my 6P LED in it's place in the Jeep (I like the long shelf-life and wide temperature range of CR123a Lithium primary cells in an 'emergency' light.). I bought the upgrade intending to simply replace the SF LED, but changed my mind when I saw how bright - and neutral white (The P60L seems cool.) - it was. I ordered another blister-packed 6P for $41 shipped (evil-bay), so I have less in this flashlight than I had in the stolen one - and a lot less than my 6P LED. But... how was the drop-in? It looked great, QC wise. Longer than the SF P60L, I had to remove the outer spring for a proper fit in the 6P body (It may be required for the SF G-series body.). The beam is a good copy of the P60L's - the polished reflector helps. The central spot is neutral white and larger than the cool P60L's beam. The single-mode drop-in's reflected light - from a meter to an 8.5" x 11" sheet of 90+% reflectance printer paper and measured four times as high as my P60 LED and early E1b Backup - and half as bright as my SF LB3T Invictus. The meter in use was a Weston Master II - an antique selenium cell reflected light photo meter. After 5 minutes, the head temperature was read with an infrared thermometer and found to be fifteen Fahrenheit degrees warmer than ambient, while the P60L measured around four F degrees above ambient. Hopefully, it is thermally protected in case it's used in a higher thermal resistance non-metal flashlight body.

I was pleased with my first 'P60 drop-in' - and anticipate more purchases. The 6P LED went back into the Jeep's console, the new drop-in equipped 6p deemed too bright for roadside use.


PS I just checked - this drop-in is not currently available via Amazon 'Prime'... keep checking!


----------



## orbital

+

Solarforce w/ *XP-L*







_______^ I believe it's closer to 900~1000lm


----------



## recDNA

I trust amp values more than any lumen claim from these lights. If you know the amps you pretty much know the output. I've seen manufacturers claiming 1000 lumens from 1.5 amps. Silly


----------



## orbital

recDNA said:


> I trust amp values more than any lumen claim from these lights. If you know the amps you pretty much know the output. I've seen manufacturers claiming 1000 lumens from 1.5 amps. Silly



+

true, not many people other than CPF folk are going to buy a light on its amps.
I got one of the single-mode xp-l units from solarforce, de-domed it & put the pill in my 2x18650 Deree DBS

fun, fun:thumbsup:


----------



## recDNA

Nice. Have you got one of those gizmos to measure peak lux?


----------



## orbital

^

no, but it's a tighter hotspot than the xm-l2 that was in it.
still luvin' the DBS for so many years now,,, being able to plug in new pills is such a 


add for relevancy:: drop-ins will always keep lights interesting & affordable!!


----------



## A.marquardt

Vinh just recently came out with the *CQvn P60 - Solid Copper P60 Quad * which can put out up to 4400 lumen depending on your choice of leds. It is jaw-droppingly bright. I've purchased two of them, and the WOW factor is amazing. The led has been tested to draw as much as 9.88 amps. Ridiculous.

Of course, if you want longer than a 5 minute runtime on turbo, you could always buy one of Vinh's other P-60 drop ins, they are excellent.


----------



## GrimReminder

Help a newbie here lol. 
Quick question. If I remove the head off my 6px pro and remove the bezel ring, will a P60 drop in fit in there and work? Thanks for your time guys.


----------



## Xacto

Nope, the 6PX can not be fitted with a drop-in. I once read of some guy that did it, but it involved some serious milling on a lathe. Way easier to just buy a regular Surefire 6P.

Cheers
Thorsten


----------



## kikoy

Sir, where can i buy vinh, p60 quad?


Thanks in advance!




A.marquardt said:


> Vinh just recently came out with the *CQvn P60 - Solid Copper P60 Quad * which can put out up to 4400 lumen depending on your choice of leds. It is jaw-droppingly bright. I've purchased two of them, and the WOW factor is amazing. The led has been tested to draw as much as 9.88 amps. Ridiculous.
> 
> Of course, if you want longer than a 5 minute runtime on turbo, you could always buy one of Vinh's other P-60 drop ins, they are excellent.


----------



## BarryG

kikoy said:


> Sir, where can i buy vinh, p60 quad?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!




http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?391120-CQvn-P60-Solid-Copper-P60-Quad








Barry


----------



## orbital

+

Must be said, the http://www.mtnelectronics.com drop-ins have a good choice of tints and modes for a reasonable cost.

... the XM-L2 units are driven to 3A on High :thumbsup:
... the Nichia units driven to 2.2A


----------



## Corvette6769

I concur with others here, Richard at USA BASED Mountain Electronics LLC www.mtnelectronics.com is the man. His customer service, quick replies to email inquiries, competitive pricing, fast shipping, and above all selection of quality CUSTOM products are, in my opinion, impossible to beat. I have purchased from him more than once and the transactions have been flawless.


----------



## weed099

What P60 led has the most throw? Including the nice custom built ones. Looking for the brightest and longest throw available that''ll hold up to being on a rifle for spotlighting predators across a pasture. I currently have 3x Malkoffs, a Nailbender, and a new custom VOB MT-G2. I also have a FM deep C head I can run it in. Anyone run a triple or quad the the FM deep head like Vihn's CQvn 4400 lumen quad? Again, needs to be something potted with Malkoff like durability for a weaponlight.


----------



## psychbeat

Dedomed direct drive XPG2 in a smooth reflector from Vinh is the furthest throwing module I've ever had. 
It's pretty impressive


----------



## Jvvjvv

> Dedomed direct drive XPG2 in a smooth reflector from Vinh is the furthest throwing module I've ever had.
> It's pretty impressive




I have VOB XHP 70's, VOB MT-G2 and a bunch of other drop ins..........the Vinh dedomed is by far a longer thrower and 
good spill too.........IMPRESSIVE drop in. Mine is the XLM2 U3..........Get the driver vn2..........you can run it at 70% all day long.

The VOB XHP 70 throwns nicely with the 5M turbo head, but not as far as the Vinh dedomed. Altho the 70 really lights up the surrounding area.

Which raises the question........XPG2?? or XML2?? I will admit that I am emitter knowledge challenged.

Jack


----------



## LV426

How long life-expectancy is there on a dedomed LED?


----------



## Raysbeam

I'm in need of suggestions for an affordable drop in for my Nextorch GT6A-RL.


----------



## jomy

_+1 for the Malkoff M60._


----------



## Father Azmodius

psychbeat said:


> Dedomed direct drive XPG2 in a smooth reflector from Vinh is the furthest throwing module I've ever had.
> It's pretty impressive



+1. Not the brightest drop in i have, but definitely the most throw.


----------



## Treeguy

Hello,

I'm a complete newb in the drop-in department, and would like to know the best and simplest option for a G2 Nitrolon. It's the 65 lumen model from about six or seven-years ago. 

Thanks. 

Looks exactly like this: http://cdn.atlantictactical.com/images/uploads/p_surefire_G2L_BK_Side.jpg


----------



## DellSuperman

Treeguy said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm a complete newb in the drop-in department, and would like to know the best and simplest option for a G2 Nitrolon. It's the 65 lumen model from about six or seven-years ago.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Looks exactly like this: http://cdn.atlantictactical.com/images/uploads/p_surefire_G2L_BK_Side.jpg


Malkoff M61


----------



## cxalexandrowitchantonmy

*P60 sized led drop ins p*

LED is getting more and more popularity today owing to its outstanding features like low energy consumption, high efficiency, long lifespan, environmental friendliness and durability. It


----------



## mega_lumens

*Re: P60 sized led drop ins p*

I want a dedicated 18650 P60 drop-in. What is the realistically brightest option available that will run on full output for 1 hour at least? I'm not interested in 4,000 lumen P60s that only run on 30 second bursts as a novelty light. Criteria: durability, efficiency and real lumen ratings.


----------



## DellSuperman

*Re: P60 sized led drop ins p*



mega_lumens said:


> I want a dedicated 18650 P60 drop-in. What is the realistically brightest option available that will run on full output for 1 hour at least? I'm not interested in 4,000 lumen P60s that only run on 30 second bursts as a novelty light. Criteria: durability, efficiency and real lumen ratings.



XP-L or XM-L2 running at 2.8 to 3A on a 3400mAh battery can get you about an hour of runtime (not continuous run of course). 

You may wanna look for Vinhnguyen54 P60 dropin thread to see what he can offer.

A decent budget host will be Solarforce, if u need it..


----------



## Timothybil

*Re: P60 sized led drop ins p*



mega_lumens said:


> I want a dedicated 18650 P60 drop-in. What is the realistically brightest option available that will run on full output for 1 hour at least? I'm not interested in 4,000 lumen P60s that only run on 30 second bursts as a novelty light. Criteria: durability, efficiency and real lumen ratings.


The Lumens Factory D26 LED drop ins will run 400 lumens (350 if 90+ CRI) for an hour using a 17650, and for two using an 18650 or two primaries. It will run three hours with three primaries or two 18500s. Really nice drop ins, I have a couple and really love the 90+ CRI one.


----------



## stephenk

*Re: P60 sized led drop ins p*



Timothybil said:


> The Lumens Factory D26 LED drop ins will run 400 lumens (350 if 90+ CRI) for an hour using a 17650, and for two using an 18650 or two primaries. It will run three hours with three primaries or two 18500s. Really nice drop ins, I have a couple and really love the 90+ CRI one.


 I have an SP-6 and Lumens Factory high-CRI drop in in the mail. Can't wait!


----------



## etc

*Re: P60 sized led drop ins p*



cxalexandrowitchantonmy said:


> LED is getting more and more popularity today owing to its outstanding features like low energy consumption, high efficiency, long lifespan, environmental friendliness and durability. It




yes and it is just a matter of time before incan disappears completely.


----------



## mega_lumens

*Re: P60 sized led drop ins p*



DellSuperman said:


> XP-L or XM-L2 running at 2.8 to 3A on a 3400mAh battery can get you about an hour of runtime (not continuous run of course).
> 
> You may wanna look for Vinhnguyen54 P60 dropin thread to see what he can offer.


Can you post some links to the specific models you're mentioning? I searched and he makes several kinds of models with different LED setups and some threads are closed. 



Timothybil said:


> The Lumens Factory D26 LED drop ins will run 400 lumens (350 if 90+ CRI) for an hour using a 17650, and for two using an 18650 or two primaries. It will run three hours with three primaries or two 18500s. Really nice drop ins, I have a couple and really love the 90+ CRI one.


I have Malkoff drop ins in similar output but none are bright enough for my liking. If my Zebralight headlamp can put out 600-1000 lumens for its size, I want my bored SF P6, for 18650, to be a thrower otherwise the size of the light is a waste.


----------



## DellSuperman

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/350519


----------



## Timothybil

Mountain Electronics sells the CUXP/CUXM drop in. One of the choices for emitter is the XP-L at 1000 lumens, with either smooth or orange peel reflector, and multiple choices for modes. About $20 shipped.


----------



## DellSuperman

guest-knife said:


> I usually carry the best LED rechargeable torch from maglite for my everyday carry to outdoors and even to the outdoors survival trips like camping, trekking, hiking and all.


Ooohhhkay..... So how does this help in a P60 dropins thread?


----------



## dc38

Gk has been adverting for knife india company, lets have him buy a cpf subscription.


----------



## DellSuperman

dc38 said:


> Gk has been adverting for knife india company, lets have him buy a cpf subscription.


Yeah, i just noticed that too. 
Most of his posts are Maglite & Led lenser with a link.


----------



## DellSuperman

dc38 said:


> Gk has been adverting for knife india company, lets have him buy a cpf subscription.


Yeah, i just noticed that too. 
Most of his posts are Maglite & Led lenser with a link.


----------



## yoyoman

Haven't read the hole thread. I have the usual Malkoff, Vinh, Nailbender, EDC+ P60 dropins. I just got the new Oveready aluminum P60 mule drop in with an XML. Very nice tint and beam profile. Haven't tested the runtime yet. 1400 ma draw is reasonable and it puts out a lot of light with the XML.


----------



## CH3NO2

Haven't visited here for a while, but i'm looking for a P60 LED drop-in for my Surefire. its an NRA model but I don't remember what the Surefire designation was. its all nitrolon but similar to a G2Z 

Here is a picture 







https://www.dropbox.com/s/sfdgqu46tm2jk06/Surefire G2.JPG?dl=0

I use it mainly for walking the dogs in the dark mostly to get the attention of early morning drivers so more than around 300 lumens would probably just **** them off. 

I have a similar Surefire LED now a G2ZX ( plastic body aluminum head ) and it works great at getting drivers attention and would like to upgrade this old one.

I see the Malkoff M61 looks good But I don't know if it will fit my body.


----------



## Timothybil

What does it have for a lamp assembly now? If it has the standard Surefire P60/P61 incan lamp assembly, than any standard D26/P60 drop in should fit.


----------



## DellSuperman

It does look awfully like a G2Z other than the marking of the NRA. 
As Timothybil has mentioned, if it fits a P60/61 light engine, then it will fit any P60/D26 dropin (like the Malkoff M61)

Do consider on getting the L or LL variant if u plan to still to the nitrolon bezel..


----------



## CH3NO2

After a little research it is called a G2Z-NRA and does have the nitrolon bezel. currently it has a P60 in it. I usually don't run it for more than a minute or so, but a M61L may be good just to be on the safe side. 

it also has a heavy spring in the bezel that would have to remain to complete the circuit since the bezel is plastic. do these inserts work with the spring?


----------



## Jackyl

I have had a SF 6P w/ a Malkoff M60-Q5 and Z59 clicky mounted to an AR forever now. Nice cool-white, near colorless beam, but the Cree optic spills enough light to the immediate sides of the bezel to cast a wicked shadow of the barrel. Due to the still acceptable throw and overbuilt reputation of this unit though, I have given it a free pass thus far.

I finally decided a few weeks ago to pickup a second SF 6P to mod for a larger "around the house" light. (I usually pocket an HDS Rotary. Very close tint to the M60, but a hair on the blue side.) I got a Nailbender XP-G2 S3 5k 3D tint drop-in for it and I am super impressed. It throws as well as my new 600L SF Fury in fact. (Black Friday score. It is pretty yellow on the low side, but mellows out a lot on high.) Anyway, I am still trying to get used to the warmer 3D tint. The corona is a nice creamy vanilla white, but the spill is pretty pink. The sure does seem to do better with color rendition though. At first I immediately wanted to order another one in 2B tint, but I am trying to talk myself out of it since it could go the same way, only green instead of pink. :x

Both of these handily blow away the M60 though as you can probably imagine, and its got me itching to upgrade to a more efficient XP-G2 thrower. Any idea if Malkoff is making a switch to XP-G2? I see they are either sold out, or steeply discounting current inventory. It doesn't look like there have been many advancements to the M61 since it first came out, so I'm still not sure it's a suitable replacement for the M60 for me. Is anyone running a Nailbender drop-in in a weapon-mounted light? Is there anyone else I should take a look at? I prefer to run 2xCR123 primaries. Thanks!!!


----------



## ahmetbozkurt

What (besides SF) lights accept Malkoff dropin without using a spring, i.e. make full thermal contact with the host body? Does the Solarforce L2?


----------



## Grizzman

ahmetbozkurt said:


> What (besides SF) lights accept Malkoff dropin without using a spring, i.e. make full thermal contact with the host body? Does the Solarforce L2?



I have a Solarforce L2P and it requires a spring for reliable contact. If I remember correctly, the head wouldn't come close to threading on fully. In my opinion, $10 hosts don't deserve Malkoff's.


----------



## Hondo

Can't answer the actual question. But it's worth noting the biggest hit in the thermal path is the gap on the sides of the reflector. The pill will pass heat to the reflector readily, and if the reflector is in contact with the head, it can be dissipated. Remember, the emitter is at the top of the pill, and it is a longer route for heat to travel out the bottom end. There are a few ways to fix the gap that almost all P60 lights have, which you probably already know. Wrapping the base of the reflector with enough aluminum foil to get a press fit is most common, but I like the aluminum beer/pop can strips method as it's neater, but more work to strip the coating off of the can's surface first, to maximize conduction. I've seen members machine a precise "make-up" sleeve from solid aluminum, but that is out of scope for most of us.

I guess I never thought of spring vs no spring as a player in thermal efficiency. Time for another infra-red study, someone!


----------



## Raggasonic

I use 3M 1181-25 copper adhesive tape on my P60s, better heat transfer and electrical contact than aluminium foil.
A bit pricey but I take it from work


----------



## Hondo

That is what Nailbender includes with his modules. I have not used it because I did not want the adhesive layer between the layers of copper. Not sure how that stacks up against raw aluminum without adhesive, but it seems to work well enough. I'm sure he would not send it out with his module if it did not do a good job.


----------



## Jackyl

Is anyone running a Nailbender in a classic style round, knurled SF 6P? I just got two NIB circa 2009 and swapped in a 3D and a 3C tint, and I can't get the module to seat any further than the top edge of the copper tape in relation to the host body. I tried clipping a half coil at a time till I got down to 1.5 coils and it never made any difference at all. Anyone running an o-ring between the module and the Pyrex as a gap filler?

ETA: I figured it out. One coil will leave a hair more than the usual "Malkoff gap" if you screw the reflector nearly all the way down on the brass module. Instead, I removed the spring coil, unscrewed the reflector, applied more blue loctite and dialed it in to where the bezel will screw down just far enough that there is zero gap, but also no more slop in the module. After removing the hand tight reflectors, I found a small bead of solder laying under there on top of the insulator sticker of each module. No evidence of it missing from either power lead though. I love these things for around the house, camping, etc., but I think I will stick with my M60 for my weapon-mounted 6P. The 3D tint is EXCELLENT outdoors, but has a pink/purple tint in the house, especially on ultra white walls and ceilings. The 3C tint is exactly what I was looking for though, creamy corona and colorless spill.


----------



## orbital

+

Been a while since I got a new drop-in, so I went for a PFlexPro 3.8A
WOW!!

The attention to detail is incredible*see below
in its potting, emitter mounted to copper , further heatsinking via copper foil included, _not tape_
various springs/contacts to suit your applications, good instruction sheet ect.,,, ect.,,,,,
Perfectly centered XP-L HI is fantastic driven @ 3.8A

Each drop-in is hand tested and you are given a readout on its performance
Users can decide between 22 groups, yes 22 (a bit tricky to figure out at first, but not that hard)
I'm using an IMR 26650 & the supplied copper foil for body contact

Spent a little more, but as drop-ins go, it *has to be one of the best*:thumbsup:










*The lead wires are silver plated, oxygen free copper with Teflon Insulation -(the thin Teflon insulation along with flat solder joints allow 
the use of a thermally conductive pad under the reflector)
*The thermally conductive pad is used to give heat from the emitter an alternate and more direct path to the reflector shaft (the reflector 
shaft passes the majority of the heat to the flashlight body)
*The reflector shaft is smoothed to 2000 grit and sealed with thermal compound (this step lowers the Tj about 4 degrees C)
*The emitter is mounted on a copper Noctigon MCPCB (this moves the heat away from the emitter more efficiently )
*A copper foil thread wrap is used when installing the reflector to the pill (this lowers the thermal resistance of the threads)
*A thermal Isolation pad is installed between the emitter platform and the driver...this step is important for a potted drop in: the bottom of 
the platform on a drop in running at 3 amps with good thermal management can easily reach 100C -the driver has a maximum temperature 
of 60C. The potting material creates a thermal bridge from the bottom of the pill's emitter platform to the 
driver components. This isolation pad blocks the emitter's heat from feeding directly to the driver. 
*Driver components are fully potted -this protects the driver components from thermal shock, mechanical shock, and physical damage 
(potting material: Stycast 2850ft with 12lv catalyst -widely used in the aerospace industry)
*The potting material is set back from the edge of the pill to ensure compatibility with hosts that do not use the large outer spring


----------



## psychbeat

Looks GREAT ^^^


----------



## RMM

The CUXM and CUXP are nice drop-ins and a great value for the money, but if you want something that is a cut above the rest check out PFlexPro. Randy does some of the best work I've seen, and has the testing and experience to back it up. He hand crafts each one of them and goes through extra efforts to get every last bit of thermal performance and uniformity out of his drop-ins. I can also say that in my experience he has always been good to deal with and very honest.


----------



## nicky_is12

Is there a p60 style drop in that can run with 12v. I ask because I recently purchased an md4 tube from Malkoff to run a hound dog head. I am trying to find a smaller head to run with 4 primaries.


----------



## DellSuperman

nicky_is12 said:


> Is there a p60 style drop in that can run with 12v. I ask because I recently purchased an md4 tube from Malkoff to run a hound dog head. I am trying to find a smaller head to run with 4 primaries.


Malkoff M91


----------



## Grizzman

Malkoff M61 SHO also accepts 12 volts, including the 219 and N variants.


----------



## Timothybil

Jackyl said:


> Both of these handily blow away the M60 though as you can probably imagine, and its got me itching to upgrade to a more efficient XP-G2 thrower. Any idea if Malkoff is making a switch to XP-G2? I see they are either sold out, or steeply discounting current inventory. It doesn't look like there have been many advancements to the M61 since it first came out, so I'm still not sure it's a suitable replacement for the M60 for me. Is anyone running a Nailbender drop-in in a weapon-mounted light? Is there anyone else I should take a look at? I prefer to run 2xCR123 primaries. Thanks!!!


Lumens Factory uses the XP-G2 exclusively in their D26 (P60) drop-ins. They offer them in single or multiple mode, and in Neutral White or 90+ CRI emitters. Depending on the emitter, they put out about 350/400 lumens. The triple mode is a nice spacing of 5%/30%/100%. I have two and love them both. And they are very reasonably priced as well.


----------



## fvshaggy

Sorry for the newbie question but it seems like most people use the Malkoff's as there preferred lighting choice. What are some of the other better brands that can be counted on. Thanks for any help you can steer me to. Right now looking at the Malkoff m61 for my c2 centurion.


----------



## psychbeat

fvshaggy said:


> Sorry for the newbie question but it seems like most people use the Malkoff's as there preferred lighting choice. What are some of the other better brands that can be counted on. Thanks for any help you can steer me to. Right now looking at the Malkoff m61 for my c2 centurion.



I like nailbender Daves www.customlites.com 
And Vinhs http://skylumen.com
And vestureofbloods XHP modules look awesome too. http://asflashlights.com

None of my Vinh or NB modules have ever let me down and I'm VERY hard on my lights.


----------



## DellSuperman

Can i check if ur C2 is bored for 18mm cells? If yes, u can then consider those higher powered dropins. If the host is not bored for 18mm cells, perhaps u wanna consider lower powered dropins. 

I will second Vinh's work. 
Top notch product & customer service. 
Tana's triple dropin with the Lucidrv driver is an awesome choice too..


----------



## Timothybil

Lumens Factory sells some nice D26 (the generic name for P60) drop ins as well. Well built, good voltage range, Neutral White or 90+ CRI tints, at a reasonable price.

Mountain Electronics sells a CUXM/CUXP drop in with your choice of XM-L2 emitter in a variety of tints, or Nichia 219B 93 CRI tint. Also well built, good price, but will only work with a single Li-Ion cell.


----------



## fvshaggy

DellSuperman said:


> Can i check if ur C2 is bored for 18mm cells? If yes, u can then consider those higher powered dropins. If the host is not bored for 18mm cells, perhaps u wanna consider lower powered dropins.
> 
> I will second Vinh's work.
> Top notch product & customer service.
> Tana's triple dropin with the Lucidrv driver is an awesome choice too..





psychbeat said:


> I like nailbender Daves www.customlites.com
> And Vinhs http://skylumen.com
> And vestureofbloods XHP modules look awesome too. http://asflashlights.com
> 
> None of my Vinh or NB modules have ever let me down and I'm VERY hard on my lights.





Timothybil said:


> Lumens Factory sells some nice D26 (the generic name for P60) drop ins as well. Well built, good voltage range, Neutral White or 90+ CRI tints, at a reasonable price.
> 
> Mountain Electronics sells a CUXM/CUXP drop in with your choice of XM-L2 emitter in a variety of tints, or Nichia 219B 93 CRI tint. Also well built, good price, but will only work with a single Li-Ion cell.



Thanks for all the reply's so far. My light is just the standard that hasn't been bored yet, but I might consider that route in the future. I am interested in getting the best and the best bang for my buck as well. I am working on getting a 17670 as well so that should get me started in the right direction I hope. A question again about the tailcaps if I get a clicky style tailcap would that allow me to use the lights with multiple outputs. 90/150/250 lumen outputs?


----------



## Timothybil

Either style tailcap will work for the multiple mode emitters. It is the on/off cycling that controls that, not how the on/off is done. Personally, I believe a clicky tailcap makes it a little easier, but I have both types and it works either way.


----------



## DellSuperman

With a good 17670 cell, i think you should stick to a M361.. 
Its essentially a M61 with 3 modes.. 
Plus it is a great & reliable dropin that is built like a tank.


----------



## Espionage Studio

+1 on the m361, that's a great drop-in. I have the m361n I love the tint!


----------



## fvshaggy

DellSuperman said:


> With a good 17670 cell, i think you should stick to a M361..
> Its essentially a M61 with 3 modes..
> Plus it is a great & reliable dropin that is built like a tank.



I see on their website that the m361 has the three modes. With 400 being the high. What, roughly, are the medium and low settings?

Thanks


----------



## Grizzman

I see on their website that the M361 has three modes....with 15 lumens/80 lumens/400 lumens shown in the Summary of Modes section.

There's likely a vertical wheel on your mouse. When you roll it towards you, the information further down the webpage you're viewing becomes visible. If you're not using a separate mouse, repeatedly pressing the down arrow on the keyboard does the same thing. On smart phones...... & :welcome:.


----------



## fvshaggy

Grizzman said:


> I see on their website that the M361 has three modes....with 15 lumens/80 lumens/400 lumens shown in the Summary of Modes section.
> 
> There's likely a vertical wheel on your mouse. When you roll it towards you, the information further down the webpage you're viewing becomes visible. If you're not using a separate mouse, repeatedly pressing the down arrow on the keyboard does the same thing. On smart phones...... & :welcome:.



Thanks for the great insight. I just found out I can use a 16650 battery instead of the 17670. I emailed Gene and he seems like a really nice person. Thanks for the heads up all.


----------



## theeric

I just picked up on the the pflexpro units myself.
It's very nice.


----------



## wackyvegan

Hello guys, does someone know what the furthest throwing P60 drop-in for under 30$ is? I would really like to have something that throws really far, with as little spill as possible. Color temperature preferably under 5500k but for a long throw i would grumpily give in to 5500k+.

edit: Or are there carclo (Or other) optics on the market that would replace the reflector and give me more throw?


----------



## psychbeat

wackyvegan said:


> Hello guys, does someone know what the furthest throwing P60 drop-in for under 30$ is? I would really like to have something that throws really far, with as little spill as possible. Color temperature preferably under 5500k but for a long throw i would grumpily give in to 5500k+.
> 
> edit: Or are there carclo (Or other) optics on the market that would replace the reflector and give me more throw?



From one vegan to another  - just buy a cheap XPG2 module, dedome it and bypass the driver so that its direct drive. 
The DeDomed emitter will be about 1000K warmer so start with a cool neutral. 

Smooth reflector will help. 
Should do about 50,000lux or more on a hi drain


----------



## wackyvegan

Thanks psychbeat i will look for one.As far as optics go, would this optic work with most cree leds, like the xm-l2, or only xp-g leds?: http://www.led1.de/shop/8-carclo-linse-fuer-cree-xp-g-leds.html
I don´t even know what the difference between the leds is...


----------



## psychbeat

wackyvegan said:


> Thanks psychbeat i will look for one.As far as optics go, would this optic work with most cree leds, like the xm-l2, or only xp-g leds?: http://www.led1.de/shop/8-carclo-linse-fuer-cree-xp-g-leds.html
> I don´t even know what the difference between the leds is...



No - just buy a pre made p60 module with a reflector and short out or bypass the driver to make it direct drive and dedome the emitter 
XPG2 will throw best and have less heat but the XML2 or XPL will be impressive as well. 
U can probably find an XPG drop in for 10$


----------



## wackyvegan

The only xp-g2 drop-in i can find is this one: http://intl-outdoor.com/p60-dropin-module-cuxp2-xpg2-219ct-p-798.html
It would probably be perfect but is too expensive for me, especially if i would try to dedome the led (Have never tried dedoming before). Anyone know where to get a xp-g2 drop-in for under 10$ and free international shipping? Have already looked on fasttech,kaidomain etc.


----------



## texas cop

wackyvegan said:


> The only xp-g2 drop-in i can find is this one: http://intl-outdoor.com/p60-dropin-module-cuxp2-xpg2-219ct-p-798.html
> It would probably be perfect but is too expensive for me, especially if i would try to dedome the led (Have never tried dedoming before). Anyone know where to get a xp-g2 drop-in for under 10$ and free international shipping? Have already looked on fasttech,kaidomain etc.



I've got the XP-G2 S4 dropin and it's a top performer. Better throw than the XP-L and draws about 2.2 amps. As is it's a great dropin. If you must dedome, I would use the razor method. Remove reflector then place a washer around the LED and with a single slice run the razor across the washer. It's my preferred method. Usually very level with the washer guide. If it's slightly off the beam won't show it and the thin layer left behind protects the LED's surface. And of course order with the smooth reflector.


----------



## SpyderHS08

I've had an incan 6P sitting around for years....love everything about the light but the runtime. So what is a fairly good led drop in to go with? Not looking to spend $40-50 either so something cheap and simple. 80-100 lumens or more if it's available? Thanks!


----------



## Timothybil

Look at Lumens Factory. They have a P60 drop in using an XP-G2 with either a Neutral White or a 90+ CRI option. The output is around 350 lumens or better, depending on the option. The run time with two primaries or two 1n350 cells is around two hours. And best of all, it should be around $35 with shipping. 

Another option is the Mountain Electronics CUXP/CUXM drop in. You have your choice of an XM-L2 at around 1000 lumens or a Nichia 219B at 400 lumens. You also have several choices as to modes available. Only drawback is that you must use a single Li-Ion cell. With shipping it should be about $25. If you want a nice holster for that 6P get the 'small tube style' holster for $2.85. Very nice.

I have one of each, one in my G2 and the other in my 6P, and I love them both. I love the Nichia 291B goodness, and the LF 90+ CRI is right behind it but a little warmer in tint. In my opinion you can't go wrong with either one.


----------



## stephenk

I'm thinking of getting an XM-L2 drop-in (approx. 3A) for my Lumens Factory Seraph SP-6. Can I ask which high drain clicky tail caps are compatible with the Seraph? Thanks.


----------



## DellSuperman

stephenk said:


> I'm thinking of getting an XM-L2 drop-in (approx. 3A) for my Lumens Factory Seraph SP-6. Can I ask which high drain clicky tail caps are compatible with the Seraph? Thanks.


It is listed as compatible with all Surefire Z41 upgrades, so that means a McClicky with brass ring insert will work.


----------



## Timothybil

stephenk said:


> I'm thinking of getting an XM-L2 drop-in (approx. 3A) for my Lumens Factory Seraph SP-6. Can I ask which high drain clicky tail caps are compatible with the Seraph? Thanks.


You should have gotten a clicky tail cap with the Seraph 6. I know my manual says that one should only use the clicky tailcap with high drain cells and lamps, so you should be fine with that one.


----------



## liteboy

There are so many similar threads. I posted new topic but perhaps this thread will get more looks. 

For those who have both malkoff md2 and one of his drop ins with high low ring AND Vihn's bored p60 and his p60vn drop in, which is better and why??


----------



## psychbeat

liteboy said:


> There are so many similar threads. I posted new topic but perhaps this thread will get more looks.
> 
> For those who have both malkoff md2 and one of his drop ins with high low ring AND Vihn's bored p60 and his p60vn drop in, which is better and why??



I'll bite -

I've only had one Malkoff drop (a 219) and I haven't had one of his hosts. 
I have 5 or 6 of Vinhs modules run in a bored SureFire a Fivemega and some solarforce hosts. 


The two are vastly different approaches -
Vinhs modules are aimed at MAXIMUM output and some of them are TEN TIMES the lumens and approaching that in Lux with the throw oriented drops.

The Malkoff modules are aimed at MAXIMUM toughness and "foolproof-ness" as possible. 

That said,
I have spend MANY hours of VERY intense downhill mountain bike riding with my Vinh modules and have trusted my life with them and run many cells all of the way down on max brightness with no issues. 
Vinhs drops are potted and have been used with firearms etc etc. 

The Malkoff dropins are great too and are more than bright enough for most people. 
I personally, don't like the smaller reflector on them or the weight of the brass that doesn't conduct hear as well as copper or aluminum. 

All good and both are great builders with AMAZING customer service. 

Cheers.


----------



## liteboy

Thanks for sharing your experience, psychbeat! Now my next question will be:

What's the best host for a p60 drop in?? And why?


----------



## DrafterDan

Depends on what you intend to use it for. What are your parameters?


----------



## vestureofblood

Adventure Sport Flashlights has a P60 dropin that could be added to this list :naughty:
http://asflashlights.com/19-p60-bulb-drop-in


----------



## Cobraman502

vestureofblood said:


> Adventure Sport Flashlights has a P60 dropin that could be added to this list :naughty:
> http://asflashlights.com/19-p60-bulb-drop-in



I was looking for one of these. I will have to save the link possibly for future purchase. I just purchased all the goodies for building my own drop in. Can you tell me if these drop ins will work in the solar force l2p?

Thanks


----------



## vestureofblood

Yes, you could use it in a solarforce. It would be a very good idea to use some copper tape around it to make a tight fit though. The design is based on use of a surefire shaped head, and the solarfoce have more room inside. 

I have also use them in a fivemega host I picked up at nitemods.com They mate well with that host too. The Dellsuperman switch is a nice upgrade as well.

For some reason using that body and the DS swtich though I had to add a longer spring to the switch. I think those bodies are designed for use with loooong protected cells. DS switch works fine on my leef bodies.


----------



## ven

vestureofblood said:


> Adventure Sport Flashlights has a P60 dropin that could be added to this list :naughty:
> http://asflashlights.com/19-p60-bulb-drop-in




+1 to that, only have one and its amazing


----------



## Genna

ven said:


> +1 to that, only have one and its amazing



Me too...[emoji41]


----------



## ven

Well sir, all i can say is that you have impeccable taste


----------



## Genna

ven said:


> Well sir, all i can say is that you have impeccable taste



The same as yours [emoji6][emoji1]


----------



## liteboy

Anyone have the oveready torchlab triple? It's dang expensive, but option for a second color led?


----------



## Father Azmodius

I don't have the drop in (yet), but I do have 2 wasp heads and an E series that have the same light engine. It's worth it i you want the flexibility it offers.....programming, 1 or 2 cell, battery stretch, the list goes on


----------



## Taxman

Extreme newbie question- what high lumen drop ins don't require a different battery set up? I want to stick with 2 x cr123's in my 6P. I found the Malkoff M61, but that is only 325 lumen. I found some of the suggested higher lumen drop ins on other sites, but they specifically say you can't use CR 123. Should I leave well enough alone and just stick with the M 61? 

Thanks in advance 

Sea


----------



## Timothybil

The thing to remember is that CR123 primaries don't do well with higher current draws. If you are going to have a light that pulls more than one or two amps, you will be much better off using Li-Ion rechargeables. Whether they are ICR, IMR, INR, or LiFePO4 is up to you, as is whether or not they are protected. You will have to watch the voltage ratings on your drop ins so that you don't let the Magic Blue Smoke out by over driving the input. As an example, my most favorite drop in is for a single Li-Ion only. You will notice that most if not all of the reputable sellers of drop ins will be very careful to make clear what voltage range is supported. As examples, look at some of the ones offered by Malkoff Devices or Lumens Factory. They are very explicit in what voltage ranges are allowed.

Just as an aside, be careful going over 400 lumens or so with a drop in. Due to the nature of the P60/D26 drop in, many times there is not a good thermal path to handle the extra heat produced by the higher lumen outputs. I'm not saying to not buy a higher lumen drop in, but be aware that you should probably not plan on using the higher output modes for long periods of time.


----------



## Offgridled

liteboy said:


> Anyone have the oveready torchlab triple? It's dang expensive, but option for a second color led?



Yes and it's amazing


----------



## liteboy

Trying to decide between the oveready, v54 p60 variants, VOB Xhp70, but then there are host issues to consider as well. Oveready turnkey setup is just too dang expensive, >450 with my intended setup; VOB requires 2 cell; v54 6p seems rather easy but I also want a cooler (Cooley) host and or head like the cryos. Too many choices!!!


----------



## boafish

liteboy said:


> Anyone have the oveready torchlab triple? It's dang expensive, but option for a second color led?



I've had several. They're worth the money imo. The programmability of the driver and safety features implemented are the standard to go by. Customer service is top notch and quality is bar none.


----------



## ven

liteboy said:


> Trying to decide between the oveready, v54 p60 variants, VOB Xhp70, but then there are host issues to consider as well. Oveready turnkey setup is just too dang expensive, >450 with my intended setup; VOB requires 2 cell; v54 6p seems rather easy but I also want a cooler (Cooley) host and or head like the cryos. Too many choices!!!




Short answer you need them all Slightly longer answer(but not that long) would be go off what beam profile and tint you want, what uses and outputs would suit you the most. This should make easier your 1st choice and take from there. I can say the VOB is amazing in 5000k de-dome, crazy output and a great beam of flood and reach(very useful for me). Being a 2 cell fed LED, care needs to be taken and for a host. In baby format 2x 16340 (used in an un-bored M2) its probably 3000lm ish and gives out big heat at that. If i put it in a bored host and feed it 2x 18350 then i would guess closer to 3500lm, put it with 2x 26650 in a large host and would guess 4000+lm due to less sag under load. Guess i am saying, if its going to be used a good bit, then higher capacity cells would be a better option as the 16340's will drain quick! ............18350's wont be far behind either!.
Cant comment on the OR triple but know they are top quality and offer lots of options.
p60vn's offer some excellent options to cater for your needs,triples,quads,mules or just reflector based.


----------



## U2v5

Recently acquired the Oveready v5 XPL triple with the Amber option led. I find the Amber personally far more useful for my eyes in low/no ambient light situations. Still preserves my own night vision. I'm finding the programmable capability incredibly useful.


----------



## Croquette

Don't gorget to include p60 tana drop in in your options.

highly programmable drop in, choice of led and high quality stuff.



liteboy said:


> Trying to decide between the oveready, v54 p60 variants, VOB Xhp70, but then there are host issues to consider as well. Oveready turnkey setup is just too dang expensive, >450 with my intended setup; VOB requires 2 cell; v54 6p seems rather easy but I also want a cooler (Cooley) host and or head like the cryos. Too many choices!!!


----------



## liteboy

Croquette said:


> Don't gorget to include p60 tana drop in in your options.
> 
> highly programmable drop in, choice of led and high quality stuff.



Thanks for the heads up. Where does one buy this? 

I have a p60vn quad and oveready v5 triple incoming. Next will be the VOB xhp70. Cant wait!!!


----------



## Croquette

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...igh-power-custom-made-hybrid-modules-drop-ins


With h17f driver you can custom your modes like OR drop in but without any screen. You can chose your led from 0.1 lumen to direct drive, he builds fast and with incomparable attention to details.


----------



## vadimax

Croquette said:


> Don't gorget to include p60 tana drop in in your options.
> 
> highly programmable drop in, choice of led and high quality stuff.



Well, and where is the link? Or should we guess where to find it?

Edit: Ok, now I see -- right above my post


----------



## vadimax

It is so sad that Vinz is out of business with his jewelry:


----------



## ven

They are very beautifully made , for sure!


----------



## Croquette

If you have some soldering skills, mtn electronics sells p60 quad shell for 25 bucks.

With led, mcpcb, optic and driver, you have for max 50$ a real photon canon !


----------



## vadimax

An unpleasant discovery: P60 drop-ins are listed no more at SkyLumen.com.

Edit: Sorry, found them again


----------



## ven

What are you going for vad? to feed the stainless L2T


----------



## vadimax

ven said:


> What are you going for vad? to feed the stainless L2T



Yes. Still looking for optimal solution.


----------



## ven

vadimax said:


> Yes. Still looking for optimal solution.



Sportac triple nichia 219B 2 mode is a bargain , providing you like hi cri floodiness


----------



## vadimax

ven said:


> Sportac triple nichia 219B 2 mode is a bargain , providing you like hi cri floodiness



It is sold out everywhere  Perhaps, have to back order at Goinggear.com.


----------



## ven

Flashaholics here in UK should have stock. If you decide let me know as I could always ship it for you if they won't .


----------



## vadimax

ven said:


> Flashaholics here in UK should have stock. If you decide let me know as I could always ship it for you if they won't .



Hell, that was hard  Found only at eu.nkon.nl. Ordered. Delivery price from Goinggear.com was twice the price of a drop-in itself 

The most funny moment was that all official EagleTac/Sportac dealers in Europe do not sell the module.


----------



## ven

Great news then, did you go for the 2 mode . I went for the 2 mode simply as the 160lm(20%) works well for most uses. 100% even though specs state 600 ish OTF lm, it's quite bright and ample light. For the money it is hard to beat ! This will always be one of my fav drop ins.


----------



## ven

Old pic of the L2T and cryos head with the nichia triple inside


----------



## vadimax

Yes, I've ordered a 2-mode Nichia triple. Does it need a foil wrap to fit L2T SS?


----------



## ven

vadimax said:


> Yes, I've ordered a 2-mode Nichia triple. Does it need a foil wrap to fit L2T SS?




Yes a little, its not over critical tbh as sometimes depending on the host i just dont bother! . Fit it in, get an idea of the gap, couple of wraps and fit again. Your aiming for a slightly snug fit. I say slightly because i had a very snug fit yesterday with a seraph and CQvn................20m of blood(yes real blood) sweat and tears.............ok i did not cry! . I had to prize it out...........not an easy task i can tell you and only happened once before. I have slices on my hands/fingers for being a muppet and not wearing gloves!.

It just helps the heat transfer to the body, and on 100% it can get warm fairly quick(regardless of host). 600+ OTF lumens is not to be sniffed at and imo you chose wisely. The single mode for me anyway is too much output. 20% which is around 160 OTF lumens(probably 200+ LED lumens) is more than enough. As its a nice big hotspot of flood, it nicely spreads out for a wall of hi cri goodness. It is one of the most useful drop ins for me(anything triple or quad, hi cri is a bonus). 

I bought some guitar copper tape(check the bay of e) and use this. Only problem over normal foil is when you come to swap hosts and its not needed due to a closer tolerance. It is a right *beep* to get off!!! :laughing: 

Also i am not sure on what cells your using, out of the box it wants button tops due to the physical polarity protection(what a mouthful for a plastic ring!). I just snipped it off with......snips! So i can use flat tops as well now. Of course it goes without saying take extra care from then on when swapping out cells.

Look forward to your impressions vad, have you any nichia 219B in your collection? If not, it may take a little getting used to as it appeared warm at first to me(being used to cool whites at the time). Now its just a beautiful 4500 ish tint. So easy on tired eyes............

Enjoy:thumbsup:


----------



## BriteLite2

this list would be more complete if we had dimensions of the dropins listed . there are so many hosts and variations with dropins it would be nice to know and save some headaches


----------



## DellSuperman

BriteLite2 said:


> this list would be more complete if we had dimensions of the dropins listed . there are so many hosts and variations with dropins it would be nice to know and save some headaches


Actually most of the dropins are quite standard in size. Its just the various hosts that have some variation in size..


----------



## michaelmcgo

Hey guys, I keep an older Surefire 6P at my cabin for bears and other nighttime friends and the XP-G drop-in is getting a bit dated. I'm looking for a fairly inexpensive replacement that will put out maximum brightness. I'm thinking:

>Single XP-L HI emitter (would anything else be better?)
>1-mode, no programming options or hidden modes.
>Cool white color is perfect.
>I don't need anything fancy or expensive but a reliable source would be best (I'm OK with a"solarforce" style product if it has a good track record).

I use my Zebralights and FourSeven Quarks for normal tasks, this light is only kept for nighttime noises. What do you recommend?


----------



## ven

Check out pflexpro for an nice xpl HI drop in, from what i have seen/red they take care/pride in their p60's. Seem excellent value and much better quality than the solarforce ones.


----------



## Offgridled

ven said:


> Check out pflexpro for an nice xpl HI drop in, from what i have seen/red they take care/pride in their p60's. Seem excellent value and much better quality than the solarforce ones.


+1 yes Randy who owns pflexpro is a great guy very knowledgeable I bought a few of his lights before I came across Vinh.


----------



## DHart

Offgridled said:


> +1 yes Randy who owns pflexpro is a great guy very knowledgeable I bought a few of his lights before I came across Vinh.



Great how the 6P can be renewed like a phoenix, again and again and again.


----------



## vadimax

If you deal with drop-ins you might need this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/322217150096?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Should warn that it is being shipped with a slowest boat in the world, but definitely worth effort: it is cheap as dirt, it is real copper, it is 0.1 mm thick and easily being cut with standard large utility scissors. It perfectly serves its function: checked with Solarforce L2T SS and Eagletac P60 triple Nichia drop-in.


----------



## DellSuperman

vadimax said:


> If you deal with drop-ins you might need this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/322217150096?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
> 
> Should warn that it is being shipped with a slowest boat in the world, but definitely worth effort: it is cheap as dirt, it is real copper, it is 0.1 mm thick and easily being cut with standard large utility scissors. It perfectly serves its function: checked with Solarforce L2T SS and Eagletac P60 triple Nichia drop-in.


Wow, this is good.. 
On a side note: does platina on copper affects the thermal transfer?


----------



## liteboy

vadimax said:


> If you deal with drop-ins you might need this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/322217150096?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
> 
> Should warn that it is being shipped with a slowest boat in the world, but definitely worth effort: it is cheap as dirt, it is real copper, it is 0.1 mm thick and easily being cut with standard large utility scissors. It perfectly serves its function: checked with Solarforce L2T SS and Eagletac P60 triple Nichia drop-in.



Thanks for the link! Been looking for something like this but no luck on Amazon, rarely shop the bay of E.


----------



## Offgridled

liteboy said:


> Thanks for the link! Been looking for something like this but no luck on Amazon, rarely shop the bay of E.


Great heads up there


----------



## vadimax

DellSuperman said:


> Wow, this is good..
> On a side note: does platina on copper affects the thermal transfer?



Sorry, I have no idea  Once assembled I don't dismember my lights without urgent necessity. So patina has no chance to build up.


----------



## vadimax

BTW, one more hint: to make easier to roll a copper (any) tape around a cylinder surface you need to press it with a finger to some hard right angle blade (a knife spine or the outer edge of a scissors blade) and pull. It will roll into a spiral itself.


----------



## DellSuperman

vadimax said:


> Sorry, I have no idea  Once assembled I don't dismember my lights without urgent necessity. So patina has no chance to build up.


Unfortunately, i am the right opposite from you. 
I am soooooo flicker minded & switches my dropin quite frequently.


----------



## DogLeg

Does anyone know whether a UniqueFire UF1508 or a Dereelight XSearcher can take the XMP70 3000 Lumen P60 pill without modification?


----------



## DellSuperman

DogLeg said:


> Does anyone know whether a UniqueFire UF1508 or a Dereelight XSearcher can take the XMP70 3000 Lumen P60 pill without modification?


Do u have some pics to show? 
And by XMP70, did u mean XHP70..?


----------



## DogLeg

Yes, XHP70 (typo) - been told they both take custom pills.


----------



## texas cop

DogLeg said:


> Does anyone know whether a UniqueFire UF1508 or a Dereelight XSearcher can take the XMP70 3000 Lumen P60 pill without modification?



I've got the UniqueFire UF1508 It's not going to work. The UF1508 is almost a P60. The pill screws is instead of dropin or pressing in, it's what the P60 should have evolved into. The reflector then sits over the pill instead of screwing onto it.


----------



## sygyzy

I've recently become obsessed with Nichia's. Can anyone give me a list of readily available and recommended P60 drop-in's with Nichia High CRI LED's? I will be running it in a Surefire C2 or Solarforce bodies. I actually don't really care about super high output and am happy with a simple UI like low, medium, high. No strobe or SOS necessary but not a deal breaker if it comes with it.


----------



## ven

A sportac triple nichia 219B springs to mind for value, single and dual mode options. I prefer the dual mode,20%(160ish lumens) and 100%(650+lm) Out The Front lumens that is ,LED it's around 1000 iirc .

I have a 2nd on the way,the first is one of my work p60's and used daily.....hard! Dropped,banged,left on for hours under machines.....never missed a beat. Although I can not recommend it as it is the polarity protection, I trimmed the plastic ring around the + end off, so I can use flat tops as well as button top cells. 

For $35 or so,imo it's hard to beat for a useful hi cri drop in.


----------



## sygyzy

Wonderful, thanks for the quick and detailed response. Now I just have to find it in stock. Question - what's the difference between a triple Nichia vs a single P60 drop in? I assume you are getting more output but at the expense of a beam quality and runtime?


----------



## ven

Triples are 3 leds(nichia 219b in this case) behind optics(various types of these too). Basically you get a large hotspot of hi cri goodness,around 4500k so a neutral. I find them very useful for close to moderate distances ,to pretty much flood an area(not crazy flood,but a nice amount).

Single led p60's(unless a mule then no reflector) are simply set in a reflector ,be it smooth or orange peel. Smooth more throw but possible rings in beam,OP smooths out the transition from hot spot to spill which eats into a little of the throw. 

Not sure what country your in, U.K. Wise flasaholics has them in stock andnCPF code for discount. USA side a quick Google fu should bring up some options for you. 

Nichia 219b are not the most efficient ,but generally from a days use in work,very rare I see less than 3.7/3.8v left on a 3400 cell. This is using the 20% level mainly. 

Have another coming today , if I remember I will do a double sportac triple nichia pic . I also have the xpg2 triple, but it is a little on the cool side for me(still usable ,just not preferred.....subjective of course).

Not sportac but I also have a 4 mode triple nichia for my c2 at home, one of my fav's!


----------



## Timothybil

Mountain Electronics has a very nice P60 drop in, the CUXM/CUXP. Select the Nichea 219C option, then check out which mode programming you want and select that. I have one and really like it. I have it in an original 6P, with a 17650 cell. One note, you can only use this drop in with a single Li-Ion cell. Two primary CR123 or Li-Ions will let the magic blue smoke out of the driver circuitry, and it won't work anymore.


----------



## ven

Also pflexpro do some nice options .

Still , will take my nichia triple any day, 







EDCplus do a very nice 4000k xp-g2, 3 mode but starts in high 

edc+ in my cooly , c2 on the right has a nichia 219B triple 4 mode.............another fav


----------



## sygyzy

Looked at MTN Electronics a few times but unfortunately the Nichia 219C is sold out.

Revisiting all my current inventory, I wish there was a way to figure out, by looking at one, which modules support which voltage ranges. i have no idea, and I can't risk two 123 or two R123 cells and risk blowing it up. I know the better makers will put labels on the dropins but most don't. It's a total mystery unless you are constantly using and keeping track of all your gear.


----------



## sygyzy

ven said:


> Also pflexpro do some nice options .
> 
> Still , will take my nichia triple any day,
> 
> 
> EDCplus do a very nice 4000k xp-g2, 3 mode but starts in high
> 
> edc+ in my cooly , c2 on the right has a nichia 219B triple 4 mode.............another fav



Thanks for the info and beautiful pictures. Why do you prefer the triple? Just straight up more output?


----------



## DHart

sygyzy said:


> Looked at MTN Electronics a few times but unfortunately the Nichia 219C is sold out.
> 
> Revisiting all my current inventory, I wish there was a way to figure out, by looking at one, which modules support which voltage ranges. i have no idea, and I can't risk two 123 or two R123 cells and risk blowing it up. I know the better makers will put labels on the dropins but most don't. It's a total mystery unless you are constantly using and keeping track of all your gear.



Yeah. I find that keeping good notes and using labels makes my life much easier when it comes to remembering things and figuring things out!


----------



## Hondo

And you, DHart, win the 2016 best "Easier said than done" quote award!


----------



## KITROBASKIN

Anyone have perspective on the latest extensively programmable dropins from pflexpro?


----------



## Offgridled

KITROBASKIN said:


> Anyone have perspective on the latest extensively programmable dropins from pflexpro?


I haven't looked at them yet I've bought a couple in the start of my light ventures and I really have gravitated to Vinh's triple and quads.


----------



## ven

sygyzy said:


> Thanks for the info and beautiful pictures. Why do you prefer the triple? Just straight up more output?



Welcome, it's all subjective and personal really . For me triples and quads offer enough reach ,enough flood/spill and output all in one. So a good all rounder for me and my uses. The sportac have enough output for most uses anyway, go into customs and 2000-4000lm are possible for those lumen junkie grin moments. Benefits still are not having an intense tight hot spot bouncing back in your eyes from a couple of metres,even though your kicking out 1000's of lumens .

Sportac offer a well priced taster into the world of triples , still today mine gets used daily in work....every day ....every week.....Drops of many have not caused a flicker! 

2 mode are good for up to 6v so 18650 or 2x cr123. The single mode up to 9v so 3xcr123 (3v)or 2x rcr123(16340 4.2v x2) or 2x18350 if that suited.

I find the 2 mode more flexible for my needs as 100% is quite bright and often too bright for my uses. So the 20% works great,160lm of hi cri flood beam.

My 2 mode is fed on 18650 food in a solarforce host


----------



## ven

Well my sportac turned up and...................yuk!!! Not impressed at all, cant put a K on it, guess maybe 5200-5500 but not of pure white. It should be a very slightly warm neutral(classing 5000k as neutral and not the 4000k that is). 4500k i have in abundance, my work sportac triple is.............well at work so useless to compare. Luckily i have a few triples, so the haiku 4500k 219b triple and a triple 219b in a c2. Both these are of a warmer tint compared...................anyway to my expense of £5(not impressed and hopefully get it back) its sent back to be compared with the others in a new batch.

Would not say its the xpg2 cool white mixed up either, that is a real cool white 6000-6500k with a slight hint of blue, but mainly pure cold white. Colours look ok, just no popping out with this sportac version. I do use it now and then and it is ok to use, but its no nichia!!!!

So will see what comes back...............


----------



## DHart

Hondo said:


> And you, DHart, win the 2016 best "Easier said than done" quote award!



Yes, it does take some time and effort, that's for sure. My memory isn't so great, so I learned long ago to makes notes in my computer. At least I can quickly and easily retreive the info I need about so many things.


----------



## Hondo

I hear ya, I walk both sides of that line. I have little bags of LED's and drivers with slips of paper inside telling me what they are, and a file on my PC drive with copy-pasted instructions for most of my programmable lights. But I am also as sure as I am that I won't win the lottery today that I have P60 modules that I don't know for sure the max voltage they are designed for.

My only excuse is that I never bought a module intending to run it on anything but 1x18650/17650. So I do know that they are good to *at least* 4.2 volts.


----------



## Kestrel

DHart said:


> Yes, it does take some time and effort, that's for sure. My memory isn't so great, so I learned long ago to makes notes in my computer. At least I can quickly and easily retreive the info I need about so many things.


Hi there DHart, hope things are well. Was just thinking about you in AZ, with this nonstop Oregon fog & no sun in sight.


----------



## ven

Well looks like sportac dual mode are all the same (wrong colour temp). The single mode are all spot on so getting one of those. No big deal I guess ,as I will swap it into the larger cooly host which can handle the output,EDCplus can go back in the L2T. 

So hopefully with me tomorrow now as it does my head in ,having empty hosts :laughing:


----------



## nervouswreckdiver

KITROBASKIN said:


> Anyone have perspective on the latest extensively programmable dropins from pflexpro?



I have 2 of his advanced program and one 22 mode. They are all built very well and potted. Randy is very easy to work with. If you are unhappy with the tint he will swap it for whatever you choose. His Hybrid reflector works well with the XPL Hi emitters, he also has a very light diffuse lens that smooths out the hotspot without killing the throw. The advanced programmable drivers are the Dr Jones lucridrv and are available in 3.04 and 3.8 amp. The XPL Hi NW has almost as much throw as my Armtek Dobermann XPL Hi WW.


----------



## scs

nervouswreckdiver said:


> I have 2 of his advanced program and one 22 mode. They are all built very well and potted. Randy is very easy to work with. If you are unhappy with the tint he will swap it for whatever you choose. His Hybrid reflector works well with the XPL Hi emitters, he also has a very light diffuse lens that smooths out the hotspot without killing the throw. The advanced programmable drivers are the Dr Jones lucridrv and are available in 3.04 and 3.8 amp. The XPL Hi NW has almost as much throw as my Armtek Dobermann XPL Hi WW.



I, too, have one of his 3.04A XPL HI U2 NW with a smooth reflector and an Armytek Doberman XPL HI CW. Randy rated the dropin @ 850 lumens OTF and from a ceiling bounce test, the Doberman is below that. On my meter, the dropin puts out around 23-25k lux and the Doberman only around 30k lux.

I'm quite satisfied with the dropin.


----------



## DHart

Kestrel said:


> Hi there DHart, hope things are well. Was just thinking about you in AZ, with this nonstop Oregon fog & no sun in sight.



Hey buddy.... what a joy to hear from you again. Can you believe how many years (7) have passed since our meeting? We will never forget your kindness at that time. I hope you're thriving and happy. I do sort of miss the fog and drizzle... actually, we've got a nice dose of that here today! Kind of nice to have once in a while, as long as it's gone in a day or two. :naughty:


----------



## DHart

I've been considering one of the Nichia P60 drop-ins that have three emitters and wide voltage range. And wondering, if I drive the wide-voltage range drop-in with a single 4.2v 18650, will the output on high be the same as if I drove the head with a pair of 16340 Li-ions (8.4v)? I always prefer to run a single cell when possible and would prefer to use a single 18650, unless I would benefit from noticeably greater output given by running a pair of 16340s.


----------



## staticx57

There are no 16340 or 18350 capable of delivering the same wattage, even with two working together than the high drain 18650s.


----------



## DHart

staticx57 said:


> There are no 16340 or 18350 capable of delivering the same wattage, even with two working together than the high drain 18650s.



So... you're saying that, generally speaking, with a wide-voltage light, the lumens output from a single 18650 (let's say 4.2v) will be about the same as the output from two 16340s (8.4 v)? 

In other words, does the light's regulation see to it that whether one provides 4.2v (uses a single 18650) or 8.4v (with a pair of 16340s), you're still going to get about the same lumens out the front?


----------



## staticx57

DHart said:


> So... you're saying that, generally speaking, with a wide-voltage light, the lumens output from a single 18650 (let's say 4.2v) will be about the same as the output from two 16340s (8.4 v)?
> 
> *In other words, does the light's regulation see to it that whether one provides 4.2v (uses a single 18650) or 8.4v (with a pair of 16340s), you're still going to get about the same lumens out the front?*



Short answer is yes this is generally the case.

Long answer is it depends on the driver. 

Some wide voltage drivers work this way and some don't. Example is a Malkoff where the light drops out of regulation at 3.4 volts. With two cells in series the light will stay in regulation longer because the voltage will never drop below 3.4v. (Even this is a grey area as different cells have different capacities. Two low capacity 16340s will likely be drained before a large capacity 18650 hits 3.4v) But the light never outputs more with a higher voltage.

Then there are the Lux-RC based lights such as the ones oveready uses for the triples where the design of the driver limits the brightness when running on 18650s. But there are 18650 triples with other drivers that output more than that dropin does with a single 18650.


----------



## DHart

staticx57 said:


> Short answer is yes this is generally the case.
> 
> Long answer is it depends on the driver.
> 
> Some wide voltage drivers work this way and some don't. Example is a Malkoff where the light drops out of regulation at 3.4 volts. With two cells in series the light will stay in regulation longer because the voltage will never drop below 3.4v. (Even this is a grey area as different cells have different capacities. Two low capacity 16340s will likely be drained before a large capacity 18650 hits 3.4v) But the light never outputs more with a higher voltage.
> 
> Then there are the Lux-RC based lights such as the ones oveready uses for the triples where the design of the driver limits the brightness when running on 18650s. But there are 18650 triples with other drivers that output more than that dropin does with a single 18650.



With a wide-voltage P60 drop in (such as the Sportec triple Nichia P60 drop in), if you use it in a P30 (driven with a single 16340 cell) or in a P60 (driven with a single 18650, or a pair of 16340s) one will (initially anyway) get about the same lumens out the front for a short while?


----------



## scs

A very thorough review here: http://flashlightguide.com/2014/05/review-sportac-p60-triple-drop-modules/


----------



## staticx57

DHart said:


> With a wide-voltage P60 drop in (such as the Sportec triple Nichia P60 drop in), if you use it in a P30 (driven with a single 16340 cell) or in a P60 (driven with a single 18650, or a pair of 16340s) one will (initially anyway) get about the same lumens out the front for a short while?




For all intents and purposes a 16340 and 18650 are the same. The vast majority of 16340s and 18650s have the same nominal and same terminal voltages. 3.7v and 4.2v respectively. 

If it is a regulated driver, yes you will get the same output, at least initially.


----------



## staticx57

scs said:


> A very thorough review here: http://flashlightguide.com/2014/05/review-sportac-p60-triple-drop-modules/



Excellent article. Let's take take the regulation chart and dissect. Although this seems to not include 16340s and there is no equivalent as the 2X18650 has the same voltage but almost 5 times the capacity. 3100mAh versus 650mAh. (Note mah here IS comparable because the voltages are the same. You cannot compare mAh with dissimilar voltages.)






2XCR123a and 1X18650 fall out of regulation at about the same time. The 18650 did because it likely was at a voltage level where the driver no longer regulated the output. (A higher current output cell would likely last longer in regulation due to its ability to hold voltage for longer.) At which time the 18650 ran direct drive which you can see as the slow decline. The 2XCR123a fell out of regulation because they drop fast with a high current draw and lose voltage FAST. After a while with a low current draw the voltage recovers a bit and you get more out of the light. This is evidenced by the rise in output before the steep decline again.

The 3XCR123A lasted longer in regulation because the current draw from each cell is lower so the individual cells maintain the voltage better. You will also note how the 2XCR123A and 3XCR123A lasted about the same. This is because Power is both Watts and time. If you took the area under the graph for the 2XCR123A and 3XCR123A you would see the 3X would be about 50% larger. just like the number of cells. 

The 2X 18650 did the best for two reasons. First is it can maintain the voltage needed for regulation for longer, in fact it does so until the protection circuits trip and cut the light. The second is because it has twice the capacity of the single 18650.


----------



## KITROBASKIN

nervouswreckdiver said:


> I have 2 of his advanced program and one 22 mode. They are all built very well and potted. Randy is very easy to work with. If you are unhappy with the tint he will swap it for whatever you choose. His Hybrid reflector works well with the XPL Hi emitters, he also has a very light diffuse lens that smooths out the hotspot without killing the throw. The advanced programmable drivers are the Dr Jones lucridrv and are available in 3.04 and 3.8 amp. The XPL Hi NW has almost as much throw as my Armtek Dobermann XPL Hi WW.



Hoping you will tolerate a question.

Thanks so much for your perspective. For a field and mountain light: no last mode memory, 100% first, then maybe 20% and 1%. What is needed is a quick reset, so that after perhaps 1/2 second, the next click needs to be back to 100%. Is this possible for the Dr. Jones driver?

oh, one more:

If done well, PWM is not an issue. How about this advanced program pflexpro? No flicker distractions, even at 1%? Should I go higher than 1%; 5%?


----------



## DHart

Static... thanks for your comments and replies to my questions.



staticx57 said:


> Excellent article. Let's take take the regulation chart and dissect. Although this seems to not include 16340s and there is no equivalent as the 2X18650 has the same voltage but almost 5 times the capacity. 3100mAh versus 650mAh. (Note mah here IS comparable because the voltages are the same. You cannot compare mAh with dissimilar voltages.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2XCR123a and 1X18650 fall out of regulation at about the same time. The 18650 did because it likely was at a voltage level where the driver no longer regulated the output. (A higher current output cell would likely last longer in regulation due to its ability to hold voltage for longer.) At which time the 18650 ran direct drive which you can see as the slow decline. The 2XCR123a fell out of regulation because they drop fast with a high current draw and lose voltage FAST. After a while with a low current draw the voltage recovers a bit and you get more out of the light. This is evidenced by the rise in output before the steep decline again.
> 
> The 3XCR123A lasted longer in regulation because the current draw from each cell is lower so the individual cells maintain the voltage better. You will also note how the 2XCR123A and 3XCR123A lasted about the same. This is because Power is both Watts and time. If you took the area under the graph for the 2XCR123A and 3XCR123A you would see the 3X would be about 50% larger. just like the number of cells.
> 
> The 2X 18650 did the best for two reasons. First is it can maintain the voltage needed for regulation for longer, in fact it does so until the protection circuits trip and cut the light. The second is because it has twice the capacity of the single 18650.


----------



## ven

Great info staticx, thanks for sharing

Right got the single mode nichia replacement and the tint is perfect, 4500k ish to my eyes=perfect! (to me). The dual mode being way off and so are the other 4 he had in stock so are going back to eagtac i presume. The single modes are good and tested before sending. Flashaholics(Anthony) rang me and as usual above and beyond customer service...............great shop to deal with. 



Single mode as said before is not ideal for me, but my plan of living in a fivemega cooly takes any heat issues away, also running on a high mode is not that much of an issue for 26650 food thanks to the bigger tank. Menu today is kinoko, high drain(cracking cell for high amp) so voltage sag will be kept to a minimum from this p60 which is not a high demand drop in anyway.




Now as i use flat top high drain cells mainly, i just trim the physical polarity protection off which is a plastic ring. Of course i can not recommend this as now your at risk if you put your cell in the wrong way! Little snip on the edge with.........well snips



Good for flat tops( you could use a magnet too, the plastic ring would help keep it in place! so no real need to trim off if you dont want to..........)




The very nice 4000k EDCplus neutral is back in the L2T, nichia 219 at home in the cooly




If you dont mind the high start and not tried the 4000k xp-g2 EDC plus triple, i can highly recommend it!!! 3 mode H/M/L . If i had to pick between the 219B and the EDC plus 4000k.............i would struggle! iirc they are around $60 so almost twice the cost of the sportac...............but imo they are worth it and yes potted too.

Still today in my humble opinion, the sportac nichia triple is one of the best value hi cri p60's out.


----------



## sygyzy

ven said:


> The dual mode being way off and so are the other 4 he had in stock so are going back to eagtac i presume.
> 
> Still today in my humble opinion, the sportac nichia triple is one of the best value hi cri p60's out.



Hi, can you explain what you mean by the dual mode being way off? I am having a hard time understanding parts of your post. I ordered a 2-mode Nichia triple from SporTac and have been having some issues with it. For example, it's really finnicky on the type of body it gets put in. I have a Solartec L2P body and when I use it with a 18650 + the spacer, I cannot get the SporTac to work. The same body plus 2 x 123's won't work either. I can sort of get it working with wads of foil as spacers. The drop in works fine in a 2x123 Solartec body and works in a Surefire C2 body if I finagle it a bit.

The biggest complaint I have though is I cannot reliably get it to change modes. It often goes high, high, low, low, high high, high, low, high high. It's really consistent. Other than that, the beam is great and I can't see artifacts even though it's a triple and I assumed I'd see overlapping circles. Mine is supposed to be a Nichia model but the tint is really white and since I don't have other Nichia's, it's hard for me to tell if it's really Nichia or I was mistakenly sent a XM-L ...


----------



## ven

Dual mode(two mode ) colour temp was not right. It should be around 4500k so a tad on the warm side of neutral in colour temp. It was too cool for what it should have been, more 5500k but not a nice tint either, like a (hard to describe) dirty white colour. So basically the leds where not what they should have been for this drop in and the shop agreed on testing it. Also the other samples he had were all the same and not correct .

The single mode versions were fine and tested before he shipped out, it is perfect!

Sounds like a connection issue, have you fitted the larger spring to the base of the sportac? If not try that , I don't think it comes with one , only a metal fitting for it to sit in for some lights.

Have you tried it with the metal fitting/washer in place to help the contact ?

I find the spring has solved any contact issues .


----------



## ven

I can't post a pic as my ipad won't allow me(Photobucket issue). So here is a link to show the spring I mean and what I think would help. Sat on the base of this drop in
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?415067-SOLD-Nichia-219B-HiCRI-P60-Copper-Triple


----------



## staticx57

ven said:


> Dual mode(two mode ) colour temp was not right. It should be around 4500k so a tad on the warm side of neutral in colour temp. It was too cool for what it should have been, more 5500k but not a nice tint either, like a (hard to describe) dirty white colour. So basically the leds where not what they should have been for this drop in and the shop agreed on testing it. Also the other samples he had were all the same and not correct .
> 
> The single mode versions were fine and tested before he shipped out, it is perfect!
> 
> Sounds like a connection issue, have you fitted the larger spring to the base of the sportac? If not try that , I don't think it comes with one , only a metal fitting for it to sit in for some lights.
> 
> Have you tried it with the metal fitting/washer in place to help the contact ?
> 
> I find the spring has solved any contact issues .



That sounds like you have a Cree.


----------



## ven

I would have guessed so staticx , not like my sportac xpg2 though(not as cool ). More like a dirty white temp/colour. The single mode that got swapped for it is perfect though ! 

He has put out of stock on the shop for now and no doubt be returning the dual mode "nichia" versions.


----------



## Impossible lumens

I ordered a P60VN and my Solarforce host came in today. I got the 4x XPL HI 5,000k. I must say, this thing has the most beautiful tint. Output is great at around 1,700-2,000 lumens depending on cell. It's amazing that a light this size is so strong in both output and tint. Glad that it's forward clicky as it's my preference.


----------



## ven

Great stuff IL, and so the p60 journey begins , triples and mules of different flavours on the horizon .

Best part of 2500 OTF lumens from this set up and 22kcd


----------



## Impossible lumens

I think my next one might be an xhp-70 from ASF. Do you have one of these ven? I bet it would be freak'n bright with 2x LG HE2 or the likes. I am looking the order the 2x 18650 tube for Solarforce flashlights and then maybe go with the ASF xhp-70. Do you think I would still need an FS54 switch as the amps wouldn't be as high with 2x series cell.


----------



## staticx57

The driver Matt uses is a zener modded FET driver, which means the emitter will pull as many amps as it can from the cells. Here is some info on what an XHP70 will draw. It peaks around 9 amps. http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/707998#comment-707998

You can buy an identical switch as the FS54 for $2.85 on Mountain Electronics. Might as well swap it out.


----------



## Impossible lumens

staticx57 said:


> The driver Matt uses is a zener modded FET driver, which means the emitter will pull as many amps as it can from the cells. Here is some info on what an XHP70 will draw. It peaks around 9 amps. http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/707998#comment-707998
> 
> You can buy an identical switch as the FS54 for $2.85 on Mountain Electronics. Might as well swap it out.


Sounds like what I would want in my light. Thanx 4 the info.


----------



## ven

The xhp70 does make for a nice beam(well bezel depth dependent I guess). Mine is living in an M2 bezel which gives it a perfect rounded beam profile. If the drop in was in a cryos bezel for example,the flood would be even wider. I have 3 fuel options (2x18650 is not one of them ). 2x16340 so limits it a bit there,2x18350 and 2x26350 for a cooly.


----------



## Impossible lumens

Sheesh, the bezel thing again. The more I look at it, the deeper it gets. It was a bit deeper than preference when I got it, but now that thing has to go ASAP. lol. 

Oompa - loompa I have another puzzle for you ven. Ok, how is it you have option for 2x 26350 but no option for 2x 18650? This I'd really like to know because I have been searching for options for 2x 18650 either the full body or the extension, rigging. But I have some 26350s and would like to have that option as well. Thanks ven.


----------



## ven

I have not got a 2x18650 simply because the form factor is not for me. I have a 2x 26350 option for the cooly(for the xhp70 shaved dome p60)




But it has ended up staying in the m2




Few random hosts, the middle is excellent value IL, so a must buy from lumens factory called the seraph


----------



## ven

Another of my fav hosts is the L2T stainless IL, solid and been one of my work beaters for a while now with a sportac triple nichia inside. I liked it that much i got another and stuck a cu cryos on it! Inside this is an EDC plus 4000k xp-g2..............very nice temp.




Old pic of some work lights at the time, iirc i have 3 solarforces in work, L2T, L2T stainless and a P1D..........


----------



## Offgridled

Amazing line up ven :stunning: to look at


----------



## Impossible lumens

Very nice roundup of lights. I'll check out the Seraph from Lumens factor. Was also just looking at the L2T stainless after you mentioned the Solarforce store site. I still don't quite understand though, what do I need to get in order to run 2X 26350 with 6p drop-ins?


----------



## ven

I dont think solarforce do 2 x 26650.
You would presumably want an 18650 extension for one of the solarforces to make it 2x18650


----------



## ven

PM inbound with link


----------



## Impossible lumens

ven said:


> I dont think solarforce do 2 x 26650.
> You would presumably want an 18650 extension for one of the solarforces to make it 2x18650


Ok. But you said you have 2x 26350 for the cooly. What is the cooly? That is P60 setup I assume? Thanks.


----------



## ven

2x 26350's which are 1/2 the length, so as 18350's x2 for 8.4v in the same length as an 18650, the 26350's give 8.4v in a single 26650 format........if makes sense.


----------



## ven

Cooly hosts here
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?326040-COOLY-26650-D26-(P60)-Host-By-FiveMega


----------



## Impossible lumens

ven said:


> Cooly hosts here
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?326040-COOLY-26650-D26-(P60)-Host-By-FiveMega


Yes. That was what I was getting at. I do know what 26350s are as I have eight of them little chubbies already. Thanks. Wow, Cooly's not cheap. I may be going the 2x 18650 rout after all. lol


----------



## Timothybil

Impossible lumens said:


> Very nice roundup of lights. I'll check out the Seraph from Lumens factor.


I have had a Seraph 6 for years and love it. I really like that it will take an 18650 for the extra capacity. Unless you just have to have that extra 100 lumens, take the 90+ CRI option (700 lumens). You have a choice of the Seraph 6 or Seraph 9, the only real difference is with the Seraph 9 you can run two 18500 cells and get three hours of run time instead of two with the Seraph 6 and an 18650. With either one you get a tactical twisty and a forward clicky tail cap, so you can have it either way.

Or you can go old school and get the incan version with the SR-6 120 lumen lamp assembly, but you can only use two CR123A cells. It is $10 cheaper.

Last but not least, if you already have a favorite P60, get the body only for $18.50.


----------



## Offgridled

Impossible lumens said:


> Yes. That was what I was getting at. I do know what 26350s are as I have eight of them little chubbies already. Thanks. Wow, Cooly's not cheap. I may be going the 2x 18650 rout after all. lol


2×18650 quadvn XPL-HI this is a monster light.



image hosting over 5mb



img host

House 80 feet away



screenshot windows


----------



## Impossible lumens

Offgridled said:


> 2×18650 quadvn XPL-HI this is a monster light.
> 
> 
> 
> image hosting over 5mb
> 
> 
> 
> img host
> 
> House 80 feet away
> 
> 
> 
> screenshot windows


beautiful OG. yeah I kind of wish I went with the 2x 18650 version. Not in a regretful way but I realize how thirsty for juice my 1x 18650 quad xp-l is. Still love it though. One day I'll get the 2x 18650. Very nice.


----------



## Impossible lumens

Timothybil said:


> I have had a Seraph 6 for years and love it. I really like that it will take an 18650 for the extra capacity. Unless you just have to have that extra 100 lumens, take the 90+ CRI option (700 lumens). You have a choice of the Seraph 6 or Seraph 9, the only real difference is with the Seraph 9 you can run two 18500 cells and get three hours of run time instead of two with the Seraph 6 and an 18650. With either one you get a tactical twisty and a forward clicky tail cap, so you can have it either way.
> 
> Or you can go old school and get the incan version with the SR-6 120 lumen lamp assembly, but you can only use two CR123A cells. It is $10 cheaper.
> 
> Last but not least, if you already have a favorite P60, get the body only for $18.50.


Thanks, this really helps me know what I want ahead of time. Not going to order right now but I'm sure they'll be around next week etc. I'd love a nice high cri light with 700 lumens and single 18650. Now there's two recommendations for the Seraph so I'll keep a bookmark there.


----------



## Offgridled

Impossible lumens said:


> beautiful OG. yeah I kind of wish I went with the 2x 18650 version. Not in a regretful way but I realize how thirsty for juice my 1x 18650 quad xp-l is. Still love it though. One day I'll get the 2x 18650. Very nice.


Yes I asked Vinh to make this for me and he came up with this combo. It does get warm on turbo so I keep it at 70% then I have ML set up on it also. I love this light a lot. It puts a lot of OTF lumens.


----------



## ven

I do like that 2x 18650 with the cryos OG, looks awesome. Generally a 2x18650 is not for me(kind of size/form not ideal) but that set up is spot on! Love that a lot.

IL for a bargain, the sportac triples are worth a look(nichia 219b) in either single or dual mode. For around $35 , for a triple they are hard to beat for bang/buck and match your out put wants(700lm). 

EDCplus 4000k xp-g2(real nice colour temp/tint) , 3 mode and starts in high(another option but $60 ish) Sportac triple nichia 219, this is the single mode in the cooly(dual mode i use in work as 160lm is more than enough for most of my uses) and a CQvn xp-g2 5000k 4 mode





I will say one thing IL, once you start on hosts and p60's...........................it will never end!!! So much choice and so many options. You will never get much over 60kcd with an xp-g2 de-dome due to reflector size. But overall, for the actual size's of host...................really is a great format thanks to surefire/PK i believe.


----------



## EDness

staticx57 said:


> The driver Matt uses is a zener modded FET driver, which means the emitter will pull as many amps as it can from the cells. Here is some info on what an XHP70 will draw. It peaks around 9 amps. http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/707998#comment-707998
> 
> You can buy an identical switch as the FS54 for $2.85 on Mountain Electronics. Might as well swap it out.



I have a solarforce L2P coming and need to change out the switch. Do I need to get anything else besides the $2.85 part? Do I need any washers or retaining ring like the Surefire 6P?


----------



## staticx57

I would assume all L2Ps are the same and you can just re-use the retaining ring already in the tailcap.


----------



## staticx57

Offgridled said:


> Yes I asked Vinh to make this for me and he came up with this combo. It does get warm on turbo so I keep it at 70% then I have ML set up on it also. I love this light a lot. It puts a lot of OTF lumens.



I am assuming he set the quad board up as 2 series 2 parallel and then swapped a zener onto the driver. It would essentially make it the same setup as an XHP50 or XHP70. Likewise it would also now be incompatible with one 18650?


----------



## EDness

staticx57 said:


> I would assume all L2Ps are the same and you can just re-use the retaining ring already in the tailcap.



Perfect! thanks!


----------



## Offgridled

staticx57 said:


> I am assuming he set the quad board up as 2 series 2 parallel and then swapped a zener onto the driver. It would essentially make it the same setup as an XHP50 or XHP70. Likewise it would also now be incompatible with one 18650?


Yes exactly staticx your right on. Took him more work but Vinh is always fair with me so I said go for it. It is so bright and I couldn't be happier. Size really is not an issue for carrying around.


----------



## nervouswreckdiver

scs said:


> I, too, have one of his 3.04A XPL HI U2 NW with a smooth reflector and an Armytek Doberman XPL HI CW. Randy rated the dropin @ 850 lumens OTF and from a ceiling bounce test, the Doberman is below that. On my meter, the dropin puts out around 23-25k lux and the Doberman only around 30k lux.
> 
> I'm quite satisfied with the dropin.[/QUOTE
> 
> I have the same dropin with the 3.8 amp, randy measured at 1217 lumens/30K lux. You might also want to try this from MTN elec
> 
> [h=1]Copper P60 Quad Dropin - Quad LED - MTN-17DDm - Bistro[/h]
> I bought the XPL hi V2 5A2, very bright with nice neutral tint. Its also available with 219C.


----------



## Offgridled

Yes nervouswreck Vinh does an amazing job with these quads. I'm perfectly fine carrying a 2×18650 light with this dropin. "Size does matter"


----------



## staticx57

nervouswreckdiver said:


> scs said:
> 
> 
> 
> I, too, have one of his 3.04A XPL HI U2 NW with a smooth reflector and an Armytek Doberman XPL HI CW. Randy rated the dropin @ 850 lumens OTF and from a ceiling bounce test, the Doberman is below that. On my meter, the dropin puts out around 23-25k lux and the Doberman only around 30k lux.
> 
> I'm quite satisfied with the dropin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same dropin with the 3.8 amp, randy measured at 1217 lumens/30K lux. You might also want to try this from MTN elec
> 
> *Copper P60 Quad Dropin - Quad LED - MTN-17DDm - Bistro*
> 
> 
> I bought the XPL hi V2 5A2, very bright with nice neutral tint. Its also available with 219C.
Click to expand...

Richard at MTN designed and manufactures Vinh's DriverVN series. You can't do better than going to the source. At less than half the price with the same quality it is a winner. I have one of Richard's prototype and the quality is superb.


----------



## EDness

So I have a P60 drop in that fits solarforce lights, but I have a Surefire 6P so it leaves a gap between the head and body.

any of you happen to know the size of the o ring i can get to fill that gap?


----------



## ven

I went through some spares and found a few suitable, maybe worth a look there. I dont bother, its still water tight and the little gap does not bother me tbh. Chunky red O rings look kind of cool(red/black), all subjective of course.


----------



## Dave D

EDness said:


> So I have a P60 drop in that fits solarforce lights, but I have a Surefire 6P so it leaves a gap between the head and body.
> 
> any of you happen to know the size of the o ring i can get to fill that gap?



If you are using the large body spring try cutting off some of the coils, that will allow the drop in to sit deeper into the head. I built a drop-in for a Surefire Z2 and found that it only needed one complete ring of the coil to sit well, with no gap.


----------



## EDness

Dave D said:


> If you are using the large body spring try cutting off some of the coils, that will allow the drop in to sit deeper into the head. I built a drop-in for a Surefire Z2 and found that it only needed one complete ring of the coil to sit well, with no gap.


Unfortunately it's a Quad LED copper drop-in. Nothing to trim/cut. 

I mean it works fine but I guess I'll go to a local hardware store to look for an o-ring to fill it.


----------



## EDness

ven said:


> I went through some spares and found a few suitable, maybe worth a look there. I dont bother, its still water tight and the little gap does not bother me tbh. Chunky red O rings look kind of cool(red/black), all subjective of course.


I actually do want the red o-ing like the one on Vinh's website. Going to try and find one for the tail cap as well.


----------



## Fuchshp

Is there a thrower dropin for example with a TIR lens?


----------



## light-modder

There is an aspheric lens and lens holder designed for the diy dropins. It can be purchased at illumn.com.


----------



## ven

For decent throw, the xp-g2 de-dome of vinhs can throw some light out to around 60kcd iirc...................pretty impressive for what is a small reflector.


----------



## K2-bk-bl-rd

I'm really impressed with Randy's PflexPro drop-ins. They might not throw like a Vinh, but they are awesome all around! With nearly 1500 lumen and fully programmable, they are pretty sweet! Around 30kcd and The perfect beam, IMHO! Excellent tint options too!


----------



## KITROBASKIN

K2-bk-bl-rd said:


> I'm really impressed with Randy's PflexPro drop-ins. They might not throw like a Vinh, but they are awesome all around! With nearly 1500 lumen and fully programmable, they are pretty sweet! Around 30kcd and The perfect beam, IMHO! Excellent tint options too!



I just got a PFlexPRO dropin as well. The XP-L Hi is very throwy with a larger hotspot than a dedomed XP-G2 and does not throw as far, but the tint on the XP-L is fantastic. The tint on my dedomed XP-G2 S2 0D 4.5A! (from mtnelectronics) is about as good as a dedomed emitter can get but is distracting with certain environments; too much greenish-yellow for the browns in nature. It would probably be dandy in a tropical rainforest.

The Advanced Programming PFlexPRO offers is what I was looking for: 2 groups of up to 7 modes each in any configuration; A 10 flash battery state of charge indicator; Maximum temperature management; Mode lock keeps the light at one setting; no last mode memory (last mode memory or hybrid memory if preferred); and more. It does take some time to become adept at programming and is very doable.

Potted electronics for ruggedness (Randy supplies copper strips to wrap and provides a tool to remove tightly installed dropins (don't use it for non-potted dropins)

For those who love smooth beam transitions with throw, his micro-textured lens is very nice, coupled with the hybrid smooth reflector, especially. Can you tell I just got mine two days ago?


----------



## K2-bk-bl-rd

I got too of them! The XPL Hi 4300k with OP reflector, AP driver and a Nichia 219b 1.9a OP reflector.
Both are fantastic and the tint of both is splendid. The XPL HI is crazy bright, with great throw for my needs. The Nichia 219b is plenty bright and puts out that magic Nichia light


----------



## KITROBASKIN

Curious to hear your mode set-up. What's that? What is my set-up? Thought you'd never ask.

Mode Group A: Levels 24, 16, 24, 9, 24, 2; no memory. For the field, this gives maximum level a double click away without the pause required to reset to first mode. The quick-double-click additional mode is also set to maximum, but I do not have to summon the fine motor quickness during a possible scary situation to achieve full on. It is a simple matter (and a habit from using my Oveready V5 programmable set up in a similar way) to point the flashlight to the ground or behind me when choosing a lower navigation setting, avoiding a light blast. Changing to or going back to a navigation mode is not something done under pressure and not an issue to have to make extra clicks, and the most commonly used navigation setting is the second mode, making it simple to pause maybe <2 seconds to let the system reset to first mode and double click to primary navigation level. It is a lot easier to do it than describe it.

Mode Group B: Levels 1, 2, 3, 16, 24, high brightness beacon, low brightness beacon; no memory with quick-double-click set to strobe because messing around with strobe is occasionally amusing. This is for Sleepytime. The level 1 is truly suitable for fully night adapted eyes I kid you not.
(This is not my bump-in-the-night flashlight)

By the way, it is easy to set the flashlight for one mode only in the field, making signaling or loaning it to the inexperienced a more successful proposition; Then a quick reprogram to get back to the preferred settings. 

So far, switching light levels has been flawless, unlike some other dropins in my possession.


----------



## KITROBASKIN

Should also mention that reverse or forward clicky is available. Using a forward switch, half press(es) to get to the desired level then finish pressing with a click on that level, is a quick method. (not unique to PFlexPRO of course)

Really getting used to the smooth transitioning, yet throwy beam afforded by the hybrid reflector and micro-textured lens.


----------



## K2-bk-bl-rd

I haven't taken the time to set them up how I want yet (to busy playing with my other new lights but the I will set them up with moonlight,low,medium,high, with memory like my other programmable lights. I light the hidden mod on the AP driver, which I will set for max output. I tried the Hybrid reflector, and while it looks pretty good with the micro-texture lens, I wanted to keep a clear lens in for my other drop-ins. I like the beam on the OP reflector and like how it looks in my titanium host. It doesn't give up much for throw.


----------



## nervouswreckdiver

KITROBASKIN said:


> I just got a PFlexPRO dropin as well. The XP-L Hi is very throwy with a larger hotspot than a dedomed XP-G2 and does not throw as far, but the tint on the XP-L is fantastic. The tint on my dedomed XP-G2 S2 0D 4.5A! (from mtnelectronics) is about as good as a dedomed emitter can get but is distracting with certain environments; too much greenish-yellow for the browns in nature. It would probably be dandy in a tropical rainforest.
> 
> The Advanced Programming PFlexPRO offers is what I was looking for: 2 groups of up to 7 modes each in any configuration; A 10 flash battery state of charge indicator; Maximum temperature management; Mode lock keeps the light at one setting; no last mode memory (last mode memory or hybrid memory if preferred); and more. It does take some time to become adept at programming and is very doable.
> 
> Potted electronics for ruggedness (Randy supplies copper strips to wrap and provides a tool to remove tightly installed dropins (don't use it for non-potted dropins)
> 
> For those who love smooth beam transitions with throw, his micro-textured lens is very nice, coupled with the hybrid smooth reflector, especially. Can you tell I just got mine two days ago?




If you don't like the greenish tint you might want to try the Lee Color Filters. My Manker U21vn has a green tint which I corrected using a 1/4green +1/8 green filter. You can get a sampler from Lee for about $2. It's amazing how you can custom tune your tints without sacrificing much in the way of throw.


----------



## Offgridled

nervouswreckdiver said:


> If you don't like the greenish tint you might want to try the Lee Color Filters. My Manker U21vn has a green tint which I corrected using a 1/4green +1/8 green filter. You can get a sampler from Lee for about $2. It's amazing how you can custom tune your tints without sacrificing much in the way of throw.


Great heads up here.[emoji106]


----------



## Fuchshp

I have a PFlexPro dropin too. I got it used in an Oveready host I bought recently. It's quite a thrower. But I don't know what LED it is. It's a rather large LED without dome. 

Offgridled: What's your favourite dropin and why?


----------



## Offgridled

Fuchshp said:


> I have a PFlexPro dropin too. I got it used in an Oveready host I bought recently. It's quite a thrower. But I don't know what LED it is. It's a rather large LED without dome.
> 
> Offgridled: What's your favourite dropin and why?


I have many Vinh dropins tana dropins, Adventure Sport, Oveready, etc. I must say the xpl hi dropins are up there do to the sheer output. I use them all in different applications. Vinh made me a quad xpl HI for a 2×18650 and the sheer volume of light it produces is incredible. I'll try and do a beam shot comparison soon.


----------



## EDness

Got the Solarforce P1D from their sale and swapped the P60 from mtn(219c D280) to it. I also got a P60vn with XP-L HI(2 6500k, 2 4000k) and put that into the 6P. I ordered 2 5000k but ended up with 6500k. Turned out better actually so I'm keeeping it. P60vn draws only 8A but it's just as bright with the 219c drawing 18A.


----------



## staticx57

As efficient as these new 219c are they still output less than an xpg2 at the same current. Aren't a match for the XPL


----------



## ven

Nice pair ED, never be any dull moments wielding those babies The P1D is a tank of a host!


----------



## Offgridled

ven said:


> Nice pair ED, never be any dull moments wielding those babies The P1D is a tank of a host!


+1 very sweet lights


----------



## EDness

ven said:


> Nice pair ED, never be any dull moments wielding those babies The P1D is a tank of a host!



Thanks! P1D is a tank for sure! It's no lightweight, but feels balanced. It's now my favorite quad in my collection for everyday use. Well i love the 6p but the setup itself is 3x the price of the P1D! The other comparable quad i have is a convoy M2 quad with XP-L Hi v3 3c. I love the 3c tint but the host itself just doesn't feel as good in the hand compare to the other 2.


----------



## ven

For a light weight option, the P1 is not a bad light either







M2 wise, convoy are a decent budget light, but yes quality compared it is nothing special. Still for a $10-$20 light, it is hard to beat in that price range. I have one as a glove box light, gets infrequent use but never let me down. Had a convoy fail me from banggood , but it was a fake/copy, paint (ano) was ultrafire type and driver was different.

Keep pondering the solarforce carbon fibre host, for some lego action. However for now, my solarforces have been replaced with surefire in work. Still have them as back up though............


----------



## EDness

I want to build my next P60 light engine myself but I can't find a pill that will fit the 6P and reasonably priced. Richard sells a copper pill but I wonder if I can grind the outer edge to make it fit. I want to have a complete 6P light for under $100.


----------



## staticx57

The copper quad blanks that Mountain sells fit Surefire just fine. I have one in my C2 which I use all the time. I have a few of these and they fit my 6P as well. Only my C2 is bored for 18650 though and that gets all the use.


----------



## EDness

staticx57 said:


> The copper quad blanks that Mountain sells fit Surefire just fine. I have one in my C2 which I use all the time. I have a few of these and they fit my 6P as well. Only my C2 is bored for 18650 though and that gets all the use.


The blanks do fit and work, but it doesn't sit all the way flush on my 6P so the head doesn't screw down all the way. It could be the bore job on the 6P, but then there are vendors that do sell "shorter" pills to fit the 6P.


----------



## staticx57

This is what you would need to file to make it fit. I personally don't care that it isnt flush. Even Malkoffs arent perfectly flush. With the Cryos Bezel there is no gap.






There is also a guy in the BLF Want to Sell subforum that makes copper parts, some of them are P60.


----------



## ven

Well i am pretty impressed with the 219c 4000k triple from sportac, very nice!




Then what host to put it in...................a z2 of course




z2x2



Triple 219c in one, quad xp-g2 5000k in the other



A couple more quads to come yet, 219c 5000k bistro and a quad 219c 4000k lucid .


----------



## Offgridled

Stunning


----------



## ven

I like the z2's, dont think much of the surefire LED beam/CT though. I know old, but not bright, quite blue and ................well for me pretty useless.

Pop optics out on the sportac, now a triple 219c 4000k mule




However having the OR mule, i decided to throw the optics back in, works great either way for my uses in work tbh.


----------



## Cobraman502

Just ordered a PflexPro XML2 with the advanced driver. Anyone use this manufacture before.


----------



## scs

Cobraman502 said:


> Just ordered a PflexPro XML2 with the advanced driver. Anyone use this manufacture before.



Randy builds his dropins from stock components, with a number of personal and very thoughtful touches.  Great guy to deal with. Solid product.


----------



## Offgridled

scs said:


> Randy builds his dropins from stock components, with a number of personal and very thoughtful touches.  Great guy to deal with. Solid product.


+1 Randy is top notch and will spend time on the phone with you to explain everything. He's amazing to work with and his flashlights are made with true craftsmanship..


----------



## Cobraman502

Great glad to hear that. Looking forward to my new drop in. Thinking I should have orders xpl vs XML2.

But then again I have a ZL SC52W with an XML2 and I like that. Not trying to have a crazy thrower.


----------



## Offgridled

Cobraman502 said:


> Great glad to hear that. Looking forward to my new drop in. Thinking I should have orders xpl vs XML2.
> 
> But then again I have a ZL SC52W with an XML2 and I like that. Not trying to have a crazy thrower.


My thoughts you'll have them both soon


----------



## Modernflame

This may have been answered elsewhere, but I have a question regarding the Solarforce LM2 flashlight body that I bought recently. It is billed as a p60 host and the literature even says "Most all aftermarket P60 modules will fit this light." However, my Malkoff M61 does not fit. The flashlight body is too wide and the drop in does not make contact. It's not a tremendous concern since it was so cheap and it's real value to me is the 18350 extension and the switch, but I'm curious which modules will fit correctly.


----------



## Cobraman502

Modernflame said:


> This may have been answered elsewhere, but I have a question regarding the Solarforce LM2 flashlight body that I bought recently. It is billed as a p60 host and the literature even says "Most all aftermarket P60 modules will fit this light." However, my Malkoff M61 does not fit. The flashlight body is too wide and the drop in does not make contact. It's not a tremendous concern since it was so cheap and it's real value to me is the 18350 extension and the switch, but I'm curious which modules will fit correctly.



Typically people will wrap the module in aluminum foil or copper. This will ensure contact and heat transfer.


----------



## pc_light

Cobraman502 said:


> Typically people will wrap the module in aluminum foil or copper. This will ensure contact and heat transfer.


 +1 on foil.

The Solarforce (and some other clones) have straight sides in the bezel head whereas the Surefires like 6P have a taper at the base of the P60 drop-in. So typically a ring and/or large spring at the base is needed to make contact. But a spring lacks the heat transfer benefit of foil.


----------



## Modernflame

Is there a preferred method for applying aluminum foil? I'd be afraid that it would shift inside flashlight and make contact with the spring/positive battery terminal.


----------



## Cobraman502

Search on YouTube, basically you will only wrap the reflector that comes into contact with the walls of the head. Is only about 3/4 of an in down from the cone of the reflector.


----------



## Cobraman502

https://youtu.be/kYHYX5yc3v0


----------



## KITROBASKIN

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYHYX5yc3v0" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYHYX5yc3v0

This (almost 21 minute long) video from PFlexPRO has other elements that are interesting. He likes to use copper foil (supplied with each dropin he sells) and has an effective string technique to keep the foil in place during insertion. I got a copper sheet/foil sample-pack from quickshipmetals (I believe) that allows me to use thicker sheet that means less wraps, usually one thicker and one thinner for a dropin. I know some will think that is unnecessary, and in the big picture is, but I definitely recommend getting canned air or something from a camera shop that allows a person to blow clean the reflector and inside the bezel of any lint or dust just before threading the bezel on the dropin: probably won't increase lumens but is a 'peace of mind' thing. Who wants to see someone's eyelash on their reflector?


----------



## Cobraman502

Yeah I ordered a pflexpro drop in and will need to do the same wrapping. Good to see a video giving step by step.


----------



## EDness

So I finally built my own P60 quad, with a Solarforce L2M host. It was my first time building a quad and it was quite fun! 

XP-L HI V3 3C with bistro. This is by far my brightest quad in my collection. Draws 18A at the tail, pulls just as much as the 219C quad but higher output. (VTC6)

My question is, why does this pull so much more power vs my other quad. (Convoy M2 quad with the same LEDs and driver ~12A)


----------



## staticx57

Same cell?


----------



## EDness

staticx57 said:


> Same cell?


forgot to mention it...but yes. VTC6


----------



## fishndad

I got a couple of those Solarforce bodies.
Something to play around with.
But every drop in I've bought has broke the first time I dropped the light.
Now I use my lights for a living.
So yes I drop them.
Any suggestions on who makes a durable drop in.

BTW I've dropped the 4 Seven AA squared a hundred times and it never stopped working.


----------



## Hondo

Malkoff won't bust, for sure. And if it ever did, he would make it right, for dang sure. Nailbender pots all of his builds, unless you ask him not to, in case you want to tinker later. Lots of people use them on high power firearms, with no problems. I'm sure Vin will pot his builds, not sure if you need to specify, have not bought from him yet.


----------



## fishndad

Thanks


----------



## Johnnyh

Deleted


----------



## fishndad

Ordered the M61 low voltage drop in.
Looking forward to it.
Thanks again.


----------



## TMedina

fishndad said:


> I got a couple of those Solarforce bodies.
> Something to play around with.
> But every drop in I've bought has broke the first time I dropped the light.
> Now I use my lights for a living.
> So yes I drop them.
> Any suggestions on who makes a durable drop in.
> 
> BTW I've dropped the 4 Seven AA squared a hundred times and it never stopped working.



I'm a big fan of Malkoff drop-ins. As Hondo said, they're fully potted and designed to take abuse. 

If you go the Malkoff route, you'll need a spring or sleeve to fit around the Malkoff drop-in if you're using one of the 18650-sized Solarforce bodies. The drop-in receptacle in the Solarforce body is a tad large and the Malkoff won't make a good connection without help. For that matter, you could just make a ring of aluminum foil to fill the gap.


----------



## fishndad

Thanks for the heads up.
Yea, aluminum foil would do it.


----------



## fishndad

Is there a ring designed for this purpose?


----------



## scs

fishndad said:


> Is there a ring designed for this purpose?



I believe the malkoff dropin is both shorter and narrower than the socket of the solarforce host. A spring will guarantee uninterrupted contact even when the dropin bounces up and down inside the socket. You should still wrap it in Al or copper strips for a bit better heat transfer. A ring might work if it somehow locks the dropin in place between it and the bezel or head and is not affected by impacts. The spring, however, is readily available for purchase or from an existing dropin.


----------



## TMedina

fishndad said:


> Is there a ring designed for this purpose?



You can do a Google search for "Gold Plated Battery / Driver Contact Support Springs for Flashlight DIY (2-Piece Set) for 26.5mm flashlight drop-in modules" - your first result will be fasttech. You can either buy the spring from them, or find another source. Basically, you're looking for a spring size: 20.5*12mm.


----------



## fishndad

Thanks
I'll try thin Cooper strips.
I have several springs though.
Might be able to trim one down.
That might work nice.


----------



## fishndad

Prolly should have just bought the Malkoff head.
Anybody got one cheap? Haha


----------



## peter yetman

You can stop punishing yourself, Malkofff heads only fit Malkoff bodies.
P


----------



## Offgridled

peter yetman said:


> You can stop punishing yourself, Malkofff heads only fit Malkoff bodies.
> P


+1


----------



## carl

USA-made P60 hosts:

http://www.texaslumens.com/gallery.html

Not sure if regular P60 drop-ins which fit Surefire and/or Solarforce fit these Texas Lumens hosts but they make their own P60 drop-ins.


----------



## vadimax

carl said:


> USA-made P60 hosts:
> 
> http://www.texaslumens.com/gallery.html
> 
> Not sure if regular P60 drop-ins which fit Surefire and/or Solarforce fit these Texas Lumens hosts but they make their own P60 drop-ins.



All of a sudden... The first 20700 lights?


----------



## vadimax

fishndad said:


> Thanks
> I'll try thin Cooper strips.
> I have several springs though.
> Might be able to trim one down.
> That might work nice.



I use 0.1 mm copper foil from eBay -- works perfectly well. It tightens a drop-in and improves heat transfer to the body.


----------



## fishndad

I got my Malkoff drop in today.
Thanks for all your tips.
Aluminum foils holds things in real snug and the low voltage drop in works great.
Hopefully it doesn't break the 3rd or forth time I drop it.


----------



## dc38

Matt strong makes some very decent drop ins...triples!


----------



## fishndad

I can't believe this light.
It's the neutral tint lowest output. They say 60 lumens out the front.
If that's the case then Phoenix and Jet beam have been lying to me all these years.

This drop in in a solarfoce body pumps a lot of light.


----------



## fishndad

Who's Matt Strong?
He got a web site?


----------



## WhoDunIt

First time really posting here, but I'm a long time forum stalker. 

Anyways... I have a Surefire 6P LED with the KX4D head and I'm looking to upgrade. The LED has developed a brown/burnt center with a severe decline in output. I'm having a hard time finding what I need in the search. Would I be better off buying an entire new head + dropin from someplace like Solarforce or is this KX4D worth heating and beating on? 

I'm looking for 400+ lumens with potted electronics as it serves double duty as a weapon light. My other option is to try to score a used P2X Fury. 

Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## xdayv

If you are looking for potted electronics, check out Malkoff drop-ins.


----------



## psychbeat

Nailbender (customlites.com) & skylumen also offer potted drivers as an option


----------



## WhoDunIt

I found I can return the light for warranty work. I'll be trying one of these setups in a solarforce body. Thanks!


----------



## Flashlight Dave

Does anyone have any thoughts on the Kdlitker 219c dropin? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DWHCYZ/?tag=cpf0b6-20
[h=1][/h]


----------



## ven

I have a couple of Kaidomain drop ins like that, 219c's and they are decent for the money. Not as cheap as the solarforce ones anyway..........


----------



## choombak

Flashlight Dave said:


> Does anyone have any thoughts on the Kdlitker 219c dropin? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DWHCYZ/?tag=cpf0b6-20



Looks very poor quality from the photos. Possibly good for experimentation, not so for real work.


----------



## texas cop

Here's one from a U.S. maker https://www.pflexpro.com/Nichia-219-quad-Drop-In-p/p60-quad-4up-ap.htm Looks like a winner.


----------



## ven

Yes Texas cop, can’t go wrong with a pflexpro:thumbsup:


----------



## ma tumba

I wonder if there is an aspheric p60 drop in that provides a truly pencil beam, similar to that of saabluster's lights? I have his 400k edc but prefer to keep it in my safe, rather than have it collect dings and scratches


----------



## archimedes

ma tumba said:


> I wonder if there is an aspheric p60 drop in that provides a truly pencil beam, similar to that of saabluster's lights? I have his 400k edc but prefer to keep it in my safe, rather than have it collect dings and scratches


Was not available as a turnkey dropin, but you may want to search for @ahorton aspheric P60 builds ....


----------



## ma tumba

archimedes said:


> Was not available as a turnkey dropin, but you may want to search for @ahorton aspheric P60 builds ....


Thank you! Now I vaguely remember that those lenses were sold also as kits...


----------



## archimedes

ma tumba said:


> Thank you! Now I vaguely remember that those lenses were sold also as kits...


Glad to help and, yes, that's right.


----------



## KITROBASKIN

Illumn.com sells the 27.2mm Ahorton spacer and the Ahorton lens in the USA. Look under flashlight parts.


----------



## ma tumba

KITROBASKIN said:


> Illumn.com sells the 27.2mm Ahorton spacer and the Ahorton lens in the USA. Look under flashlight parts.


Thank you, that is a great lead!


----------



## Day_late

I bought a P60 sized led drop in for my old Surefire G2 from Battery Junction a few months ago; it is the single mode 335 lumen model from SZX. It works fine except that the flashlight occasionally needs to be whacked against something to light it up. I figured out the problem is that the bezel assembly leaves the drop in slightly loose when it's screwed down fully. Put in the drop in, screw the front end on - and it rattles when you shake it.

Troubleshooting the problem last night I figured out that an o-ring between the lens and the drop in would tighten everything up, remove the rattle, and make the light work without the whacks. The ideal o-ring is a number 22 (1-1/8" OD, 1/16" width). Well, my hardware store had the number 21 and the number 23, but not even a bin for the 22. The helpful hardware guy showed me some unnumbered o-rings and I picked one with an 1-1/8" OD and 3/32" width. Works great: no rattle, no whacks, the light works every time.

I guess I could sand a bit off the bottom of the bezel assembly to get the same result (the light is a yellow Nitrolon model), but I don't like to mess with the original parts unless there's no other way.


----------



## dtmbinb

Malkoff all the way! I've got an m60, m61, m61n, m61l, and m61nl. They rock!


----------



## EricJames

Are there any MG-T2 Drop ins on the market?


----------



## DellSuperman

EricJames said:


> Are there any MG-T2 Drop ins on the market?


Vinh made them some time back but the lack of a proper reflector makes it tedious to build.

Im not sure who else makes them as they are not one of those lumen powerhouse or pencil beam kinda of emitters. But they do have pretty nice tint.

Found this: http://www.fstoplights.com/ijk-local-custom-made-mt-g2-p60-drop-in-1-750-lumens-4000k-5000k/


A Singapore based online shop...


----------



## MIKE_AL

Helo everybody, what kind of drop in for ultrafire c-602 can i use?


----------



## ajumpingbean

ma tumba said:


> I wonder if there is an aspheric p60 drop in that provides a truly pencil beam, similar to that of saabluster's lights?



I'm a bit late to this, but alternatively to the Ahorton kit, Solarforce manufactures and lists a housing/lens that should screw onto your pill setup on any P60 build. I'll find the link when I get home.


----------



## kamagong

I picked up three SureFire G2s recently in the hope of turning them into beater lights for the kids to use while camping. Other than Malkoff, what other options do I have for single mode drop-ins?


----------



## Father Azmodius

Customlites offers single mode, and Vihn's can be programmed for one mode. I'm sure there are others, but those are the first to come to mind


----------



## Kid9P

Hey guys,

I own a few Malkoff’s and love them.

I’m building a couple of beater lights for the kids to use camping.
They prefer throwers for the big open fields.

A few years back, XPG2’s on smooth reflectors threw amazingly well.
Looking for similar throw without quick heat up on high.

Anything out there you guys can recommend?
Hoping one of those new led’s would fit the bill.


----------



## archimedes

Oslon Black Flat ?

XP-L HI ?


----------



## peter yetman

kamagong said:


> I picked up three SureFire G2s recently in the hope of turning them into beater lights for the kids to use while camping. Other than Malkoff, what other options do I have for single mode drop-ins?



PflexPro also do single mode drop ins.
P


----------



## Kid9P

archimedes said:


> Oslon Black Flat ?
> 
> XP-L HI ?



Do you know who offers the Olson drop in ?


----------



## Kid9P

Do you know of a PflexPro model that’s specifically a thrower?


----------



## marco.weiss

sportac with xpl-hi (cool or neutral) is another good option.


----------



## archimedes

Kid9P said:


> Do you know who offers the Olson drop in ?



Maybe @vinhnguyen54 ? Unless you were building your own ....


----------



## KITROBASKIN

Kid9P said:


> Do you know of a PflexPro model that’s specifically a thrower?



PFlexPRO offers the L2 with an XPL HI that can throw a rated 800 meters, and the C8 has quite a bit of throw in a relatively compact size, but if you want a P60 dropin for throw, his XPL HI is more of a general purpose, shorter range thrower because of the small reflector. He does not dedome LED's because of the degradation in tint, but a dedomed XP-G2 in a P60 has a nice little beam with appropriate faint spill. mtnelectronics did one for me a few years ago.


----------



## Buck91

Any suggestions for a lo-hi 2 mode thrower with 9v (three primary) input?


----------



## lumen007

archimedes said:


> Oslon Black Flat



This!


----------



## Romanko

http://akaricenter.blog.jp/archives/52287616.html


----------



## ven

Really like the look of that romanko, i can imagine buying one would not be an easy task!


----------



## Nichia!

Romanko said:


> http://akaricenter.blog.jp/archives/52287616.html



What's that?? It looks Hi CRI!?


----------



## staticx57

mumuboy said:


> I think the first thing to consider is the heat dissipation of the LED, especially the size of P60



Clicking the link indicates it is only putting out 300 lumens, i bet it hardly uses any power.


----------



## texas cop

https://illuminationgear.com/t/sportacheadlamp--lights They list three XHP35 dropins each with an option for HD or HI.


----------



## waxlight

EDC plus has an XP-L Hi one level dropin for $40. Illumination Gear seems to have the best selection of Sportac dropins with a bunch of 1-level options.


----------



## JLumens

*Re: Whats the Brightest P60 LED drop in Module?*



jzelek said:


> Hi everyone, I have a Malkoff M60 drop in for my Surefire 6P (Bored for a AW 18650).
> Is this still the brightest P60 LED module you can buy or is there something new thats brighter using a R2 Bin?


 
I would say P 60 with an HXp70.2 like this https://youtu.be/e0EswFGMUDE


----------



## Pogue_Mahone

If you were to buy a new P60 drop in right now, which one would it be.


----------



## peter yetman

You'll need to be more specific.
Do you want flood, throw or a bit of both?
How much do you want to spend?
Single mode, multi mode, disco mode?
How powerful do you want it to be?
How long do you want it run?
Rechargeable or Primary cells?

Give us some answers to those, and we can point you in the right direction.
P


----------



## Strintguy

Pogue_Mahone said:


> If you were to buy a new P60 drop in right now, which one would it be.



Malkoff


----------



## Buck91

Pogue_Mahone said:


> If you were to buy a new P60 drop in right now, which one would it be.



If I were to buy a new one it would be for a duty light. Therefore I would go with either a malkoff or (most likely) a lumens factory with nichia 319 80cri. I have one on a carbine right now and am really liking it.


----------



## iptest0125

Buck91 said:


> If I were to buy a new one it would be for a duty light. Therefore I would go with either a malkoff or (most likely) a lumens factory with nichia 319 80cri. I have one on a carbine right now and am really liking it.



I don’t see them selling P60 that fits your requirements. Do you have one in mind?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Buck91

iptest0125 said:


> I don’t see them selling P60 that fits your requirements. Do you have one in mind?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Not sure what you mean? Lumens factory has been selling a nichia 319 drop in for a while- I have one! It’s nice! Of course I’m also still very happy with my Mx1 neutral malkoff drop ins. Even more than the warm ones.


----------



## ledbetter

Best deal is customlite, best overall is malkoff, coolest is oveready or vihn.


----------



## alex74

hello everyone I would like advice for the purchase of a good p60 triple dropin with at least 2 or 3 usable levels
I like for example the sportac eagletac that I have with triple led nichia with 1 level, but unfortunately I have seen that the model with 2 has a power of 1 lumen which is practically unusable
thanks for all the answers


----------



## peter yetman

If it were me, I'd go to customlites.com and look for "Solid Copper triple emitter P60".
You can chosse emitters and number of modes too.
I use Oveready triples, and this is what I'd buy if i had to replace them.
P


----------



## WarriorOfLight

The best in class tripple would be the Oveready Triple. But I do not know if they currently plan do make some. The Oveready Triple can be programmed to several configurations and euns with one or two LiIon cells.


----------



## Buck91

alex74 said:


> hello everyone I would like advice for the purchase of a good p60 triple dropin with at least 2 or 3 usable levels
> I like for example the sportac eagletac that I have with triple led nichia with 1 level, but unfortunately I have seen that the model with 2 has a power of 1 lumen which is practically unusable
> thanks for all the answers



1 lumen is actually just about right in many environments. May or may not be good for your application but I often like my ~1 lumen modes.


----------



## stephenk

I've just received a 1.5A current triple XP-E drop-in from Kaodomain with Red, Blue, and Amber emitters. Given the relatively low current, is it still worth wrapping this drop-in in foil, or not worth the effort?


----------



## orbital

+

Not including SporTac drop-ins,, haven't purchased a 'budget' drop-in in years.
So a while back I took a punt & ordered up a $15 unit w/ XHP50.2 emitter, figured what the heck.

It arrived yesterday & all I can say is wowzer<<<
no pwm on low and medium is very bright,, high is almost silly for a drop-in. _*What a buzz for $15 *__:huh:_

_now, where are my copper strips _


----------



## Croquette

May I ask you where you purchased this drop in ?


----------



## orbital

Croquette said:


> May I ask you where you purchased this drop in ?



+

sure, copy/paste this on ebay:

_1PC 26.5mm XHP50.2 



_I ordered the smo reflector 3-mode


----------



## akula88

Any reviews on KDLITKER P60 drop-ins? 

They are offering triple-/quad-LEDs -- some with circuits pushed up to 5A (for strobe mode). 
There are also some reasonably driven to 1.4A (for Single-LED)


----------



## desmobob

I just put in one of the six dollar, 5-mode R5 (XP-G) drop-ins from BatteryJunction.com. It is brighter and has a better beam pattern than my old R2 drop-in and offers High-Medium-Low-Strobe-SOS modes. Six bucks. Unbelievable.


----------



## orbital

akula88 said:


> Any reviews on KDLITKER P60 drop-ins?
> 
> They are offering triple-/quad-LEDs -- some with circuits pushed up to 5A (for strobe mode).
> There are also some reasonably driven to 1.4A (for Single-LED)



+

Years ago I ordered alot form KD, various parts & stuff:: that tapered off and didn't place an order for a long time.
Several months back ordered up a 21700 P60 host and was super impressed with the quality and more so, the value.

Really, it's worth a go on a drop-in & it's not huge money risk,,,, I bet you'll like it alot.


----------



## SpyderHS08

My 6P was my first “nice light” as a kid. My dad helped me buy it when I was in probably 8th grade, sooo 17 years ago or so. It was badass, king of the corn maze and flashlight tag, neighbor kids hated me, I was THAT DUDE. Lol then some years went by and it got replaced with an L1 lumamax when I was in high school and then HDS LX2 M3LT E1e tripled etc etc. so a month ago after looking at this thread and the rest of the internet i went and dug my 6P out after All these years and I got on lumensfactory site again and ordered a clicky switch, a new crenulated bezel, as well as their drop in 3 mode LED. The 6P is again one of my favorite lights and I’m very happy about this. With the ability to run primaries or RC, it’s here to stay for another 15 years :thumbsup:


----------



## Buck91

I have one of their single mode 319a drop ins and it’s very nice. The three mode would be a great alternative to a M361, I just dislike mode memory.


----------



## aau007

So I have been searching high and low for a flashlight with no hotspot. Since I have a bunch of empty Solarforce hosts, I naturally was also looking for a P60 dropin. No luck. Closest I could get was a triple or quad mule but then get like 3 or 4 circles of light partially overlapping. Looks like someone with stigmatism looking at the moon.

How can I make a single LED p60 dropin into no hot spot?


----------



## peter yetman

Buy a mule, Oveready do them.
P


----------



## wayben

Sky Lumen. Talk to Vinh, he makes some nice mules.


----------



## Buck91

Dc fix?


----------



## orbital

aau007 said:


> ...How can I make a single LED p60 dropin into no hot spot?



+

diffuser film or maybe take the optic off a triple.


----------



## pc_light

aau007 said:


> How can I make a single LED p60 dropin into no hot spot?


Since you're already using a Solarforce host, the "SOLARFORCE L2-CL1 CONVEX LENS" is an option. It's an aspeheric so there's no hotspot in the beam. The resulting circle of light is relative wide (~60 deg.), best for close-up or wide area illumination.

That L2-CL1 part is only the lens and holder. You'd still need the bottom/copper/brass "pill" section of a drop-in, like the KDLitker ones mention here, for the driver/spring portion. Just unscrew the reflector portion and screw on the lens-and-holder and drop-in.


----------



## aau007

pc_light said:


> The resulting circle of light is relative wide (~60 deg.), best for close-up or wide area illumination.


That's exactly what I am looking for. I looked at this option but unfortunately I don't use Solarforce P60 dropins.

I have seen some police using a handheld search flashlight with no hotspot and it lit up a big area like daylight with a hard cut at the edge. Does anyone know what they are?


----------



## pc_light

The Solarforce L2-CL1 doesn't have to use the Solarforce brand of drop-ins. So long as it's the type with a brass pill that threads into a reflector. They're pretty generic and commonly found on eB, or other online outlets (e.g., Customlites).

Another option is a a drop-in (single and/or triple) with reflector (or optics) removed and gap filled in with a spacer, resulting in a "mule" output. This is pure emitter spread light which is less effective than using an aspheric lens which gathers the spread.


----------



## Jason_Tx

So, I had forgotten about a this being mounted and tucked away. 
It is an Overready bored 18650 HAIII 6P that I bought from the years ago. I ordered it with different colored bezel and tail on purpose, no reason, just liked it. I can't remember exactly but I think I paid around $200 for the host and another $50-60 for the Malkoff M60W that's in it. 
I unmounted it and it looks perfect to my eyes. Has definitely made me start wanting another one of these p60 lights. Been debating on one of the newer E2T-MV / EDCL-2 / E2D Defender. 
I was wondering if there were any drop ins that can push 1000 + lumens on a single 18650? 
Anyways, I thought you some of you may appreciate seeing this beauty.


----------



## bigburly912

Skylumen.com Vinh makes some crazy powerful P60 drop ins if you want a show off light.


----------



## akula88

I actually took the plunge on KDLitker and bought three drop-ins :
- Single Cree XP-L2 HD 1000-Lumens
- Quad 4x Luminus SST-20 1400-Lumen
- Triple Cree XP-L HI 2000 Lumens

Along with them are a couple of KD E6 hosts -- an 18650 and a 21700.

So far I've been satisfied with my latest purchase, and will be part of my workhorses. 21700 host is not as bulky as I had imagine.


----------



## Jason_Tx

bigburly912 said:


> Skylumen.com Vinh makes some crazy powerful P60 drop ins if you want a show off light.



Yeah, those are crazy. I'm not really looking to burn the barn down just wanted to play with a tad more light than the Malkoff has. Thanks for the recommendation, I like some of his 1 off hosts.



akula88 said:


> I actually took the plunge on KDLitker and bought three drop-ins :
> - Single Cree XP-L2 HD 1000-Lumens
> - Quad 4x Luminus SST-20 1400-Lumen
> - Triple Cree XP-L HI 2000 Lumens
> 
> Along with them are a couple of KD E6 hosts -- an 18650 and a 21700.
> 
> So far I've been satisfied with my latest purchase, and will be part of my workhorses. 21700 host is not as bulky as I had imagine.




Thanks for the recommendation. I seen those the other day and thought about getting one or two. I have a Solarforce 6p host by my bed with a warm drop in. Just wished I could change the modes as it has high/low/strobe. Would much rather just have 2 modes for it


----------



## aau007

akula88 said:


> I actually took the plunge on KDLitker and bought three drop-ins :
> - Single Cree XP-L2 HD 1000-Lumens
> - Quad 4x Luminus SST-20 1400-Lumen
> - Triple Cree XP-L HI 2000 Lumens



Can you please do me a favor? Find an ultra quiet indoor place and toggle through all the modes to see if you get any whining sound. I bought a couple of the KD dropins a couple years ago and they whine except at the highest mode. Want to see if they've improved their drivers.


----------



## akula88

aau007 said:


> I bought a couple of the KD dropins a couple years ago and they whine except at the highest mode. Want to see if they've improved their drivers.



Did your request on a closed bathroom... almost no sound after I close the door. Tested all three drop-in and found no whining sound on any of the modes. The QuadLED and TripLED has 4-modes while the single XP-L2 has 3-modes. Seems to have passed the sound test.

The Quad and Trip are using CDM-P4000 and P5000 circuits respectively. The XP-L2 uses BD39 circuit.


----------



## Jason_Tx

I've a quick question.
Just found a older solarforce body stuck in a drawer and I think I'll get a head & tail switch for it.

What I'd like is to see if I can make it into a gas pedal switch light like the EDCL-1 & 2. Anyone know how I might do that?

Or.... 

Other option is to make it momentary on only with a twist to stay on. Isn't that how they were originally? What tail cap is that?

And for the dropin I think I want a floody beam 500'ish lumens (Indoor, night stand, pew pew light) 

Thx.


----------



## Buck91

Jason_Tx said:


> I've a quick question.
> Just found a older solarforce body stuck in a drawer and I think I'll get a head & tail switch for it.
> 
> What I'd like is to see if I can make it into a gas pedal switch light like the EDCL-1 & 2. Anyone know how I might do that?
> 
> Or....
> 
> Other option is to make it momentary on only with a twist to stay on. Isn't that how they were originally? What tail cap is that?
> 
> And for the dropin I think I want a floody beam 500'ish lumens (Indoor, night stand, pew pew light)
> 
> Thx.



Can’t held you with the switch. For a floody drop in illumination gear have some triple sporttac models.


----------



## DRHCPA3107

Hello everyone, I have been away for a number of years. I was searching for a P60 drop-in, but I have been overwhelmed by options but still not finding what I am looking for. I have a few Surefire 6P incandescents still in the package that I want to upgrade. I have a Surefire 6PX Pro that I really like. I am searching for something similar in a P60 that would have a two modes a high and low. The Surefire is 600/15 lumens. This is for a utility flashlight so doesn't have to be a super throw or super flood somewhere in the middle. I do like warmer tones. It's a shame the 6PX Pro isn't a drop-in. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## pc_light

DRHCPA3107 said:


> ... P60 drop-in, ... have a two modes a high and low. ... doesn't have to be a super throw or super flood somewhere in the middle. I do like warmer tones.


Check out the Sportac P60 Module with Two-modes (100% & 20%). There are a variety of combinations but the Luminous SST-20 4000K (or XP-L Hi Neutral) might work for you.


----------



## orbital

pc_light said:


> Check out the Sportac P60 Module with Two-modes (100% & 20%). There are a variety of combinations but the Luminous SST-20 4000K (or XP-L Hi Neutral) might work for you.



+

this ^^

________


rechargeable option:

Seraph SP-9 (host only) $30 
Sportac Pro w/ XHP-35 *HI neutral *$40
Two Panasonic 2000mAh 18500 $10


that'll be a super/strong setup for around $80
(in 10 years that'll still be a great & relevant light)


----------



## FiveO

DRHCPA3107 said:


> Hello everyone, I have been away for a number of years. I was searching for a P60 drop-in, but I have been overwhelmed by options but still not finding what I am looking for. I have a few Surefire 6P incandescents still in the package that I want to upgrade. I have a Surefire 6PX Pro that I really like. I am searching for something similar in a P60 that would have a two modes a high and low. The Surefire is 600/15 lumens. This is for a utility flashlight so doesn't have to be a super throw or super flood somewhere in the middle. I do like warmer tones. It's a shame the 6PX Pro isn't a drop-in. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.



Exactly why I logged back in after many years. I have 2 Surefire G2s and a D2 Defender and was hoping for some quick advice on a solid and hopefully less expensive lamp module. 

Maybe someone will offer some additional advice!


----------



## Buck91

Customlites still has two mod drop ins. PM me if you want mine! It’s nice o just hate mode memory


----------



## Ksepticon

I'm having a heck of a time finding a drop in replacement to go in my L2 Solarforce that has the features I want. I had a 2 mode LED lamp with memory function from Lighthound that I got back in the day with high and strobe that I was pretty happy with until it started having intermittent/unreliable activation and now seems to have finally quit for good. I want to replace it with either another 2 Mode High/Strobe or a 3 Mode High/Low/Strobe, either with or without memory function. I absolutely do not want a 5 mode. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## archimedes

TorchLAB Triple P60 with the Lux-RC light engine should be able to do that.

Expensive though, and might need to check fitment with that Solarforce, as those dropins are optimized for SureFire hosts.


----------



## Buck91

I think fasttech has some 17mm drivers like that which you may be able to use to repair yours?


----------



## Ksepticon

Thanks for the suggestions I'll check them out and update with results😊


----------



## jabe1

Any idea how to get in touch with customlites? I just tried and the server wouldn’t allow me to send a contact email...
I’m looking for a high CRI triple for a bored C2. The kdlitker won’t fit Surefire. And I can’t spend what overready wants.


----------



## lightknot

Sportac dropins work. Illumination Gear in Florida has them.


----------



## stephenk

akula88 said:


> I actually took the plunge on KDLitker and bought three drop-ins :
> - Single Cree XP-L2 HD 1000-Lumens
> - Quad 4x Luminus SST-20 1400-Lumen
> - Triple Cree XP-L HI 2000 Lumens
> 
> Along with them are a couple of KD E6 hosts -- an 18650 and a 21700.
> 
> So far I've been satisfied with my latest purchase, and will be part of my workhorses. 21700 host is not as bulky as I had imagine.


I have three KDLITKER E6 triple XP-E2 colour drop-ins and they are excellent. The Blue XP-E2 is much nicer than the almost violet Forensic/Royal Blue found on most RGB flashlights.


----------



## cernobila

So, been a while since I been on here.
Overload of information on the availability of P60 LED "Surefire" type lamp drop in unit.
Looking for something that will run on a single 18650 cell in the 1000 to 2000 lumens range but only in "neutral white" and three level output.
Any suggestions?
Thank you in advance.....


----------



## 808vudoo

Hi C, lots of great options these days for P60 style drop-ins. Did you have a price range in mind and preference of a single or multiple emitter design? I have a few sitting on my shelf that might fit your needs.
Aloha D


----------



## cernobila

Thanks 808 for your pictures, they look fantastic but I am looking for a cheap unit to go into an old beaten up body used as a work light in the outback.
These would most likely sit on my shelf and be a talking point...


----------



## 808vudoo

cernobila said:


> Thanks 808 for your pictures, they look fantastic but I am looking for a cheap unit to go into an old beaten up body used as a work light in the outback.
> These would most likely sit on my shelf and be a talking point...


Anytime and best of luck with your search.
Aloha, D


----------



## Stress_Test

Seems like there are currently 3 tiers of P60 drop-ins, last time I looked around.

*Cheapo:* $10 Amazon stuff that's a clone-of-clone-of-clone by no-name brands like RandomFire, MaybeFire, HouseFire, etc.

*Mid-Level: * Lumens Factory, $30 to $40 or so. They have several nice emitter options "https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=530" 

Malkoff also, but I think he only does single-mode stuff. 

*High-End: *no personal experience but I think the Customs / Modders listed on this forum sell them in probably whatever setup you want. Price? Sky's the limit probably!


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## John N

Looking for some suggestions for _single mode_ drop ins that are better quality than the budget ones. Probably with some amount of regulation.

I have a bunch of Solarforce L2P (and similar) around the house, in the cars, etc., all used with 18650 cells. But I'm not thrilled with the budget Solarforce modules. 

A lot of the lights are exhibiting a fair amount of intermittent dimming, even on freshly charged cells. I'm guessing this is because a lot of the cells are a bit old and probably not at their prime, but I'd expect a reasonable drop in to work reasonably at least for a while.

Basic preferences:
* Single mode
* Runs well on 18650 -- maybe at least partially regulated
* Tolerant of a bit of voltage variance due to different cells of different ages and health.
* Wider beam, these are work lights.
* Reliable

Extended preferences:
* Warmish, high CRI-ish
* Able to run on 6V
* Semi affordable. I have a fair number of these and they're just "work"/"utility" lights.

I don't mind swapping batteries when they run too low, but I'd like the light to work reliably until that time.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

-john


----------



## orbital

+

-john
You could get 4 of these in 3000 or 4000K for less than $35 total.
available in _single mode_,, reflector options too.






KDLITKER P6-SST20 Luminus SST-20 700 Lumens 3V - 9V P60 Drop-in


KDLITKER P6-SST20 Luminus SST-20 700 Lumens 3V - 9V P60 Drop-in




kaidomain.com


----------



## John N

Hi orbital,

What makes the KDLITKER drop ins better than the ones I have? Is the mentioned BD39 circuit particularly good?

Thanks,

-john


----------



## orbital

John N said:


> Hi orbital,
> 
> What makes the KDLITKER drop ins better than the ones I have? Is the mentioned BD39 circuit particularly good?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -john


+

Solarforce drop-ins skimped in some areas of build, I had two that the PCB was just laying on top of the pill.,, no paste.
Anyway, as looking for some _"work"/"utility" lights_ for you, thought the KD ones would be a good value.

Add: Took a look at one of my current KD drop-ins & it uses thermal paste.

BD39 specs : http://kaidomain.com/BD39-17mm-2200mA-3V-9V-1-cell-or-2-cells-Buck-Driver-Board?search=BD39


----------



## John N

Thanks, I'll try some.


----------



## orbital

+

Tod at *illuminationgear.com* got in some new SporTac drop-ins
They use the new *V2 Circuit * capable of double the output on the new Turbo mode.
_In a triple or single emitter config. _

..these are the first programmable SporTac drop-ins,, don't worry, default is Low/High if you don't want to program.

Some info::

_*4 program settings:*_


_2-level Low / High (Default)_
_1-level High_
_2-level Low /_ _*TURBO*_
_1-level_ _*TURBO*_




> _default mode/setting on arrival should be 2-level ~ *Low Mode / High Mode*.
> after 20 clicks of tailcap (watch for output change), it will go to next setting_ _*~ High Mode.*
> after 20 clicks of tailcap (watch for output change), it will go to next setting ~ *Low / TURBO*
> after 20 clicks of tailcap (watch for output change), it will go to next setting ~ *TURBO*
> 20 clicks again will cycle back through the above sequence of 4 settings_



Suggests' an 8Amp batt__


----------



## KITROBASKIN

Have you tried those new SportTac dropins? I am sometimes having to click several times to change from medium to high, though it is hopeful it would not be an issue with other samples.


----------



## orbital

+

Not a V2, but looking at an Osram unit.

Which one do you have?

Are you able to test it in another host? Sometimes the type of switch can make mode changing tricky.
Also the_ duration _of press can be a factor.

I don't mean for that to sound like you haven't tried those already, yaknow


----------



## Buck91

Do these new sportac modules get ride of the annoying mode memory?


----------



## KITROBASKIN

I just heard via email from Tod at illuminationgear. He mentioned that he saw my post and that what is needed is a double tap to change modes, otherwise the dropin thinks you just want a momentary. 

The instructions on the website state: "To toggle brightness levels, simply switch the light OFF and ON after turning the flashlight ON." Then I guess when the flashlight is on and the other mode is needed, a double click is warranted. 

He's a good guy, mentioning also that SportTac calls the second mode low, not the medium that I called it. He says it is 20% and that's what it looks like to me. I am used to low modes being 1% or so. I will try the double click method tonight. It is in a 2X18650 Oveready host with a McClicky switch.

I will also check to see if the dropin has previous-mode-activate when turning back on.


----------



## KITROBASKIN

OK the dropin works great as long as you know a quick double-click changes mode, either from off or on. I will provide a link to an illustrative video when I get a chance. Well done EagTac and IlluminationGear!


----------



## pc_light

Of all my P60 dropins the Eagletac/Sportac 2-level Triple sees the most use. Has substantial brass body construction. It's an original Triple Nichia 219 (from 2013/2014?)

Recommended.

edit - 
Original version apparently not programmable. Current measured at battery using 1x18650 are ~0.38A & 2.8A.


----------



## KITROBASKIN

One minute, thirty second video showing rapid double click to change modes on the illumination Gear, SportTac (EagTac) P60 dropin sporting the good color rendering SST-20 4000K emitter. Note that the mode when turned off, is the mode that comes on. Clearly, opinions are split regarding mode memory. It is just fine on a 20% 100% 2 mode as far as I'm concerned. The $39 price makes this a good value, high quality product. IlluminationGear also offers Osram (thrower type emitters), Luminous SFT40 cool, and neutral XPl Hi.

The Google Photos app requires a viewer to click on the play icon (upper right) to hear and see the video.









New video by Kitrobaskin







photos.app.goo.gl


----------



## lebox97

Buck91 said:


> Do these new sportac modules get ride of the annoying mode memory?



Hi Buck. 
Please explain.
if you don't want mode memory ~ (and prior to the new V2 just introduced) stick with a 1-level P60 module. 
otherwise, the 2-level circuit is pretty basic ~ it simply remembers the last level used.
ie it becomes a 1-level if you never actually change the output level.
(problem is we forget what level was used, unless you consistently/primarily only use one of the levels). 

Cheers
Tod


----------



## KITROBASKIN

Yes, I just read the lebox97 post after adding details to the previous post with the video from last night. Seems like a person will use this dropin primarily on one or the other modes, and it is easy to do a quick double click to change if needed. 

Note in the video that our 12 year old son with the old XML dropin from Nailbender years ago had issues getting to the mode requested. It is a 3 mode in a SolarForce golden brown host with a PFlexPro lens.


----------



## Buck91

lebox97 said:


> Hi Buck.
> Please explain.
> if you don't want mode memory ~ (and prior to the new V2 just introduced) stick with a 1-level P60 module.
> otherwise, the 2-level circuit is pretty basic ~ it simply remembers the last level used.
> ie it becomes a 1-level if you never actually change the output level.
> (problem is we forget what level was used, unless you consistently/primarily only use one of the levels).
> 
> Cheer





lebox97 said:


> Tod




Well, I like two modes- in fact thats becoming my favorite. But I don't like last mode memory. I want the light to come in on the same mode regardless of what was used last. Think of the Surefire 6PX Pro UI- always 2 mode Low then High. Somehow, and it must just be a me thing, when I have mode memory its always left in the mode I DONT want. Nothing worse than turning on a light which you *thought* was in low mode to move around the tent at night just ot be blasted by 1000 lumens.


----------



## orbital

+

*SporTac V2 - triple Osram*

Got in a new SporTac V2, the fact you could get it with an Osram was enough to give it a go.
Over the last several years, all the new emitters have been good, but the little Osram units have been super impressive.
The small die size makes them perfect for throwers & I prefer more of throwers,,
but in a usually floddy triple configuration,, _hmmmmm _needed to find out myself.

Lets just say it works really well, you have the smooth spill w/o a distinct boundary, but there is a usable hotspot.
It's not a thrower, but a very functional overall beam.

Hi/Lo mode change works the same as the older ones & I haven't changed the programming.
Using a tint filter at the moment, but the cool tint works well outside.

The one thing I really wanted to find out was the Low Voltage protection.
Using a 26650 host (not if that really matters.) the voltage protection came in at 3.26V and_ stepped down_,,
no flashing ect ~ just a step down to a noticeably lower output.

Neat little drop-in.

-_-

Almost forgot:: tried it with a Malkoff Hi/Low bezel ring,, the V2 wasn't happy with it,, gave it a try though👈


----------



## hamhanded

Have any beam shots? Sounds nice overall but I think the LVP sounds like it kicks in a little high, no?


----------



## Bimmerboy

orbital said:


> Got in a new SporTac V2, the fact you could get it with an Osram was enough to give it a go.


Seems I just snagged the last Osram triple in single mode. Hopefully the website is correct that they actually have one.

Thanks for your post. It finally pushed me over the edge as I've been jonesing for another triple for years since my first Sportac mysteriously died soon after I bought it. I wasn't aware it was available with this emitter, so I went for it based on your review. It'll be my first non-Cree light since dinosaurs roamed the Earth.

I'm excited about this. It will go in a bored 6P, and be directly compared to a Viking Pro XP-L for picking up dog poop at night. Will post a review with pictures. 🤣


----------



## Espionage Studio

Can you guys recommend a low voltage drop-in for running 2xAA? I sold my Malkoff M30WF some years back and still miss that thing. I prefer flood over throw and 4500k is my favorite tint. Runtime would be more important to me than brightness in this particular case. Thanks for any tips!


----------



## fulee9999

Espionage Studio said:


> Can you guys recommend a low voltage drop-in for running 2xAA? I sold my Malkoff M30WF some years back and still miss that thing. I prefer flood over throw and 4500k is my favorite tint. Runtime would be more important to me than brightness in this particular case. Thanks for any tips!



M31LL 219B? probably runs for 3-4 hours on a 2xAA


----------



## Charlie Hustle

fulee9999 said:


> M31LL 219B? probably runs for 3-4 hours on a 2xAA


The only 3-volt drop-in that is not backordered is the M31 219B. Combine Malkoff's durability and warranty with McGizmo's reflector, and arguably the greatest high CRI emitter ever created I can understand why they are not in stock.


----------



## Buck91

Lumens factory does rate their low voltage d26 for 2AA but I haven’t used that one yet. Definitely love Gene’s M31W, really sets the bar. I wonder how the LF with their warm XPL compares.


----------



## LEDphile

fulee9999 said:


> M31LL 219B? probably runs for 3-4 hours on a 2xAA


Longer than that, depending on the batteries. The M31LL is under 300mA above about 2V, and an alkaline AA is about 1500mAh at that discharge rate, so even alkalines will give you nearly 5 hours of runtime. NiMH or lithium will stretch that even further (nearly double in the case of lithium)

edit to add that the M31 series goes into direct drive when the input voltage equals or exceeds the LED voltage, so I'd be careful about using 2 lithium AA in series for one. There's a good chance that the ~3.4V you get from that battery pair is higher than the voltage a modern white LED wants to see.


----------



## kerneldrop

Espionage Studio said:


> Can you guys recommend a low voltage drop-in for running 2xAA? I sold my Malkoff M30WF some years back and still miss that thing. I prefer flood over throw and 4500k is my favorite tint. Runtime would be more important to me than brightness in this particular case. Thanks for any tips!



If you don't want a Malkoff then...

I'm envisioning:
P60 dropin
Tool AA driver that takes AA-14500
219b 4500K
OP reflector + diffuser film


----------



## Espionage Studio

I appreciate all of your insight here! The Malkoff M31LL sounds pretty darn good now that I think about it more. Might even backorder an LLL, anyone have experience with the three LLL's?


----------



## kerneldrop

Espionage Studio said:


> I appreciate all of your insight here! The Malkoff M31LL sounds pretty darn good now that I think about it more. Might even backorder an LLL, anyone have experience with the three LLL's?



May want to double check that'll happen before backordering. 
I think there's still LLLL left over from the last group buy.


----------



## thermal guy

Espionage Studio said:


> I appreciate all of your insight here! The Malkoff M31LL sounds pretty darn good now that I think about it more. Might even backorder an LLL, anyone have experience with the three LLL's?


Ya I have one. Very usable output runs for days on a set of AA’s


----------



## Ksepticon

Back on the hunt for an LED 2 or 3 mode Solarforce L2 / P60 drop in. High/Strobe if its a 2 mode, High/Low/Strobe or High/Med/Strobe if a 3 mode. Can be with or without memory function. I absolutely do not want a 5 mode.
So far I have only been able to find two options with those features, an Amazon unbranded $10 cheapo with no reviews, and a $200+ programmable one. Ideally I'd like to find one at a more mid range price, definitely under $100 and preferably closer to $40~$60.


----------



## orbital

+

Ksepticon, maybe consider Lumens Factory.
A package from them is like getting a small treasure..💡







Lumens Factory







www.lumensfactory.com


----------



## sebis

Hello, I searched the forums and could not find any answer: looking for replacement glass gasket or o-ring for a P60 host. I was an idiot and ruined a perfectly good one today and can't find one available anywhere. TIA

--Sebis


----------



## sebis

orbital said:


> +
> 
> Ksepticon, maybe consider Lumens Factory.
> A package from them is like getting a small treasure..💡
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lumens Factory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.lumensfactory.com



Unfortunately Lumens Factory drop-ins do not have strobe which is a shame. I currently have the single mode triple with Nichia 319A Neutral White (4000K 80-CRI) and the single mirror finish with Nichia 319B Cool White (5700K). I like them so much I ordered two new variations yesterday.


----------



## Danintex

sebis said:


> Hello, I searched the forums and could not find any answer: looking for replacement glass gasket or o-ring for a P60 host. I was an idiot and ruined a perfectly good one today and can't find one available anywhere. TIA
> 
> --Sebis


Hi do you need the rubber O ring, or the little threaded collar that holds the lens in?


----------



## sebis

Danintex said:


> Hi do you need the rubber O ring, or the little threaded collar that holds the lens in?



The o-ring, thanks!


----------



## Danintex

sebis said:


> The o-ring, thanks!











O-Rings & Storage Disc for LEGO/Surefire P60 Bodies - OVEREADY


Replacement Mil-Spec O-Rings to keep your flashlight waterproof and clean.




www.oveready.com


----------



## michaex

Does anyone other than Malkoff offer low'ish power, 4000k hi-cri drop-in's, something in the ballpark of 100-200 lumens?


----------



## Alpha Pews

michaex said:


> Does anyone other than Malkoff offer low'ish power, 4000k hi-cri drop-in's, something in the ballpark of 100-200 lumens?


They do a low and a low low. The LL is around 80lm


----------



## michaex

Alpha Pews said:


> They do a low and a low low. The LL is around 80lm


I know about Malkoff - looking for another manufacturer. Thanks!


----------



## Alpha Pews

michaex said:


> I know about Malkoff - looking for another manufacturer. Thanks!


Ah sorry. Fair enough. Lumens Factory are my go to mostly. Although I also want an extreme runtime drop in


----------



## Chicken Drumstick

lebox97 said:


> Hi Buck.
> Please explain.
> if you don't want mode memory ~ (and prior to the new V2 just introduced) stick with a 1-level P60 module.
> otherwise, the 2-level circuit is pretty basic ~ it simply remembers the last level used.
> ie it becomes a 1-level if you never actually change the output level.
> (problem is we forget what level was used, unless you consistently/primarily only use one of the levels).
> 
> Cheers
> Tod


Mode memory is the devils spawn....!


----------

