# 4D cell K2 Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.



## 3rd_shift (Dec 9, 2006)

Also see my newer and harder 3c Cree XRE Maglite modding with a megabyte of pics to show you how. 

See that 4D magled at the top? 





That's the one getting modded today.

Time to get some tools out.





You need to make your reflector look like this nice and neat.





Take off the switch boot without tearing it up.





Use a 5/64rths allen wrench to loosen the switch assembly like this.





Use something long to gently send the loosened switch assembly down and out of the barrel.





Use that 5/64 allen wrench again to take off the switch assembly roller.





The bulb holder guts easily come out now.





Cut off the top of the plastic bulb tower and bend the (-) tab over like this.
I already pre-soldered it for a later step.





Cut a 4 inch (-) wire and a 5 inch (+) 22-24 guage wires of different colors.
Strip off thier ends leaving about 3-5 millimeters of bare wire.





This is important.
Get some extra rosin flux and and apply it to where the wires are going.





Solder the wires to the chopped switch assembly like this.





These parts now need to come together.
A 5 watt 1 ohm resistor is being used this time around.
The UWON bin K2 led came from member photonfanatic in the dealers' corner.
Here is his home website. www.photonfanatic.com
The heatsink came from here by member H22A.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/120417





Mix up some Arctic Alumina and apply it to the center of the heatsink where the led is going and stick on the led.





Make sure to "bulls-eye" the led dead center like this when sticking it on and let the adhesive set.





Re-install the wired switch assembly.





Cut another 2 inch piece of 22-24 guage wire and strip off 3-5 millimeters off it's ends.





Bend the led's leads well clear of the heatsink.





Without shorting the battery, use a 3 volt battery to find out the led's polarity if you don't already know it.





Put that 2 inch pice of wire through the heatsink on the (-) side of the led like this.



.

Watch how the resistor was installed.
Regular 2 part epoxy was used.
The (-) input side is closest to the heatsink.
The (-) going to the led is cautiously away from the heatsink with a piece of paper inserted over there.
The other end of that 2 inch wire then got soldered to the resistor's "output" side leading to the led's (-).
Allow the resistor's adhesive time to set.





Time to put the heatsink assembly into the flashlight.





Put the red wire through the heatsink to be soldered to the led's (+) on top.
Solder the (-) wire to the resistor's (-) input side nearest the heatsink.





Solder the red wire to the led's (+).





"Deep breath" 
Load the batteries into the tube without the tailcap and measure the current with a dc ampmeter.
1.2 amps looks good for this UWON bin 1.4 amp rated Lumileds K2 led.
It's not overdriven even with fresh batteries. 





Now that we know it works, now we can make a mess like this. 
This step is necessary for the heatsink to transfer the led's heat to the aluminum body of the flashlight.
Something that a stock Magled can't do very good.
This is why Magleds go dimmer after a few minutes from getting hot.
This flashlight in it's modded state will now, stay at full power far longer without getting too hot.





Now bend the wires something like this to get them to squish in.





Push the led heatsink assembly into the barrel as far as you can.
It stopped just 1 millimeter short of where it was supposed to go in this case.
Nice tight fit as it should be. 





I used a pipe with a hollow plastic end on it to drive the heatsink the rest of the way in.
Notice how some of the heatsink grease squished out once the heatsink was all the way in.





Moment of truth!
Magled reinstalled into another 4D light on the left with new batteries.
K2 Magmod on the right kicking it's butt! 
The Magled hasn't even gotten warm enough to dim yet and it's still losing!





As you can see, I have been doing this for a while.


----------



## Pumaman (Dec 9, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

thanks for the great pics and info


----------



## Norm (Dec 9, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

:goodjob: Well presented, nice clear photos, this should help a lot of newer people here.
Norm


----------



## Pokerstud (Dec 9, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

3rd_Shift. My compliments to you sir. Excellent presentation, excellent breakdown of each step. One of the best "how to's' I have ever seen.

:thanks: :twothumbs :thumbsup:  :wow: :goodjob:


----------



## fnmag (Dec 9, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

3rd shift, thankyou for this great presentation. The step by step accompanied by the clear pics is a real help to the CPF community. They should make a sticky out of this! Cheers. :goodjob:


----------



## TranquillityBase (Dec 9, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

That's the best DIY tutorial I've seen on CPF...Thanks for the great photos, time and effort, 3rd Shift.

TB


----------



## sniper (Dec 9, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

3rd Shift; 
Thank you! I used your instructions for my first MagMod, and it works just fine. 
Is there some way to tell which is the + and - sides of the K2 emitter? The Lux III I used in my mod has a small hole in one of the leads, which makes polarity identification a snap. 

I'd like to mod a 3 cell Mag with a K2 emitter. Will a 2 Watt 1 Ohm resistor be sufficient, or can I Direct Drive it ? 

Keep it coming!


----------



## ROVER (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

Very nice 3rd shift. Although there are smaller lights, brighter lights, and a lot fancier lights, I think the direct drive (or slightly resistored) mag mod is probably one of the most practical and useful lights in real use. It's bright, it's got a great throwing beam with some sidespill, and it'll run a long time. A lot of people ask about how to do this in the LED section. This thread will be linked to quite often. I see you've been making quite a few of these for quite some time. 

When I saw your pile of removed bulb holder parts, it reminded me of a hunter with a vast collection of trophy antlers  

I hope you don't mind if I help sniper here. On the K2, you'll notice two corners have cutouts for screws. Of the other two corners, the pointy one is closest to the negative (cathode) leads while the corner that looks like it was cut off is nearest the positive (anode) leads. As far as if you can direct drive it off three cells depends on your forward voltage bin. I have done several of these direct drive down to ***K bins with no failures, but 3rd shift has a lot more direct drive experience so he can tell you what is safe. On the same lines, did you notice how 3rd shift attached a multimeter to the tailcap and checked current before closing the light up? He knows that in a given forward voltage bin, there is a lot of wiggle room so wanted to be certain that the amount of current the led is acually seeing is within the safe limits of the LED. Go for it!


----------



## LuxLuthor (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

WOW...thanks so much for making that great guide. Wonderful job!!!


----------



## AFAustin (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

Stephen, thanks for this excellent tutorial. 
Makes even an "all thumbs" guy like me want to give it a try.....some day.


----------



## 3rd_shift (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

A 3D maglite body will also work ok with a UWON bin K2 led, and you can skip the resistor altogether.
This is an even simpler and still bulletproof Magmod to do.
It just takes 4.2-4.4 volts to get the led's full 1.4 rated amperage through is all.
Otherwise, 3 nimh, or even alkaline batteries will still shove 1-1.2 amps through it with 100+ lumens of light output.
4.5 volts worth of alkaline batteries will still sag down well below 4.4 volts under load, thus making a 3 cell resistorless direct drive version a safe bet as well.
Just the 2 wires from the switch assembly to the led is all it would take in the 3 cell version. 

Oh, a 2 watt resistor should also work.
I have used those many times in the C cell versions of these lights.
Just use arctic alumina instead os plain epoxy when using a smaller and hotter running 2 watt rated resistor. 

Glad you guys liked this.
Stay tuned for the Cree XRE version of this tutorial.


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

Thank you for the great tutorial. I do believe you can get the polarity on a K2 by referring to the .pdf file available on it from Luxeon - one corner is cutoff so the positive can be identified. I've got a 3 D cell Mag light sitting on my desk right now that I've had many years - finally decided to do something with it and had already cut down the reflector before seeing this. K2 in hand. Just need a few more parts and thanks to this I'll even know what I'm doing


----------



## 3rd_shift (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

Your D cell Maglites will need to have a letter "D" at the start of the barrel serial number.
These were made from about 2001 and later.
If it doesn't it will be too old to accept a proper fitting heatsink.
Nobody seems to make an older style d cell heatsink for te older Maglites yet. 

Same true for the c cell versions.
2001 and newer are fairly easy to find heatsinks for.
There should be a "C" at the start of it's serial number.
If not, finding a proper fitting heatsink will be hard.
There were a few adaptors made, but not a bunch.
Look for a hotlips heatsink adaptor ring for the older model C cell Maglites.

Cheers


----------



## Casebrius (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

Kudos for the tutorial! I don't want to seem lazy and unable to search, but these questions will help other noobs such as myself in the future I'm sure - 

1) Where is a good source for heatsinks?
2) Where is a good source for LEDS?

Thanks for your effort! -Great tutorial


----------



## TB383 (Dec 11, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

this looks interesting.....how does this affect battery life doing this mod???

Also, do you have to start out with a magled or can it be a regular mag 4d??


----------



## greenLED (Dec 11, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

Very nice! I luv pictorial instructions. Do you add heat-shrink tubing to the contacts between the switch and the LED module?


----------



## matrixshaman (Dec 11, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*



Casebrius said:


> Kudos for the tutorial! I don't want to seem lazy and unable to search, but these questions will help other noobs such as myself in the future I'm sure -
> 
> 1) Where is a good source for heatsinks?
> 2) Where is a good source for LEDS?
> ...



1 - Not sure
2 - PhotonFanatic - CPF member right here and great to deal with - also he's got a web site by the same name - just add .com Usually has LED message sales thread going here is B/S/T


----------



## PhotonAddict (Dec 11, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*



Casebrius said:


> Kudos for the tutorial! I don't want to seem lazy and unable to search, but these questions will help other noobs such as myself in the future I'm sure -
> 
> 1) Where is a good source for heatsinks?
> 2) Where is a good source for LEDS?
> ...



For D-cell maglite heatsinks, CPF member H22A (as mentioned by 3rd shift) and Mirage_Man should be able to help you out. The Shoppe still has some hotlips for both C & D cell maglites (Heatsinks at the Shoppe )


----------



## 3rd_shift (Dec 11, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*



TB383 said:


> this looks interesting.....how does this affect battery life doing this mod???
> 
> Also, do you have to start out with a magled or can it be a regular mag 4d??



Battery life will be longer now than that of a regular 4D Maglite.
Not sure if it's any longer than a Magled's though. :thinking:

A regular 4D with the letter "D" at the start of it's serial number will do just fine.


----------



## 3rd_shift (Dec 11, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*



greenLED said:


> Very nice! I luv pictorial instructions. Do you add heat-shrink tubing to the contacts between the switch and the LED module?



That can be done if desired, but it really won't help much.
I have never had one come back yet that didn't have it. 

However, adding a blob of epoxy under each led contact after the light is finished is a good idea to keep the led contacts insulated from the heatsink.
Add some glow sand, or powder with the epoxy and you will have a really cool looking light even after you turn it off. :wow:


----------



## Long John (Dec 11, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

:goodjob: 3rd_shift, what a perfect instruction, great :twothumbs...

Best regards

____
Tom


----------



## 3rd_shift (Dec 11, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*



PhotonAddict said:


> For D-cell maglite heatsinks, CPF member H22A (as mentioned by 3rd shift) and Mirage_Man should be able to help you out. The Shoppe still has some hotlips for both C & D cell maglites (Heatsinks at the Shoppe )


The ones by Mirage Man have a centering pit in the center of thier pedestals.
Make sure it's not too deep for the led to sit in there all the way in.
The led slug MUST make touchdown to the aluminum heatsink underneath.
If it doesn't for any reason, it's goodby led. :mecry:
I had the same issue come up with some Osinks a while back.
I had to file down the centering seats a little to get the led to sit ALL the way down to the aluminum heatsink.
Otherwise, there was a thick and not so good layer of adhesive between it ahd the heatsink.
I almost lost an Xbinned Luxeon 5 to overheating when i discovered that not all leds sit as far down as they should in "pit" style heatsinks. oo:
I caught it in time and fixed it. 

The Hotlips and the DHS D sinks are much more forgiving and have always allow a good thermal contact to the led's underside.

Edit:
Here is a review by The Led Museum of an early 3c magmod I did a while back.
This one featured a TV1L binned Luxeon3 led on an Osink heatsink.
3c Magmod "Corona Blaster"


----------



## Mike Painter (Dec 11, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

Clearly this is a great job, but was it really done by 3rd Shift?
I think not.
Look at the photo of teh tools, allegedly taken by him.
HA! No coffee! HA!
I don't know anybody who has ever worked the third shift who did not consider coffee a required tool.

*************
What does a 500 pound canary say?
<deep voice> Here kitty, kitty, kitty.
One night on patrol as it was just getting light and I was so tired I was seeing things, I thought I made that up and had to stop the car because I was laughing so insanely at it.


----------



## 3rd_shift (Dec 11, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*



Mike Painter said:


> Clearly this is a great job, but was it really done by 3rd Shift?
> I think not.
> Look at the photo of teh tools, allegedly taken by him.
> HA! No coffee! HA!
> ...


----------



## DrifT3R (Dec 12, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

wow, nice collection of switch parts. I now know who to ask if i need some. =]


----------



## IsaacHayes (Dec 12, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

If the heatsink doesn't fit well, and you are worried about it sliding out after putting thermal paste on it, you can tack the edge of it with AA epoxy or any other glue so if you drop it the HS doesn't slide out. Then if you want to remove it you just pick the epoxy off the edge and slide it out... Just a tip.


----------



## Alin10123 (Dec 13, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

3rd shift,
Thanks for the informative write-up!
You still build custom magled's for people?


----------



## 3rd_shift (Dec 13, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*



> You still build custom magled's for people?



I have mostly stopped now.
I'm "passing the torch" to you guys.

Soon there will be dozens more like me who can build one for you and do a good job of it. 

Edit:
Who wants to see a Cree XRE 3c magmod tutorial this weekend?
I have everything needed now to do one.


----------



## Essexman (Dec 13, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

Having just finished making a space needle clone, I found this very helpful. I wish I had made one of these before I made the space needle, it would have been good practice.
I wonder which would be brighter, your K2 or my 5W (WWOT) ?
Yes please to the cree magmod tutorial. Your giving me ideas for my next project.....


----------



## 3rd_shift (Dec 13, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

The K2 will out-throw it with it's laser tight beam.
Your WWOT Luxeon5 sn2 clone is still likely brighter overall though. :bow:


----------



## DrifT3R (Dec 13, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

i would like to see a cree tutorial. =]


----------



## IsaacHayes (Dec 13, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

I always like seeing pics of mods. Even if I don't need to see them to do them, it's always fun viewing pics!!

It's interesting seeing the little differences in how people do the same mod.

Here is another tutorial on building a SNII http://darkgear.com/mrbulk/sn2build.htm

I like to tact the edges of the heatsink with epoxy like I said earlier as I dropped a mod once and the heatsink slid out a little. Just a little extra peice of mind.


----------



## Waffle (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

Is it possible to put the Cree XRE 3c into a 2D body?

I would like to see the mod.


----------



## greenlight (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

Nice series of pics..


----------



## Essexman (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

3rd shift - I should add that I'm running my 5W WWOT from 6 AA's and a 1 ohm resistor . Very bright. But I'm concerned about the life of the LED, so I'm looking to fit a driver in the new year.

Here's another good guide for mag modding http://lights.lightrefineries.org/?page_id=125

Keep up the good work, I'm looking forward to the Cree mag mod guide.


----------



## PEU (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

I just saw this tutorial, great job!!!


Pablo


----------



## 3rd_shift (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*



Waffle said:


> Is it possible to put the Cree XRE 3c into a 2D body?
> 
> I would like to see the mod.



I have done those with Luxeon3's. :thumbsup:
I have a spare 2D Maglite.
I'll see about doing that one before the end of the year. 

---------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm also beginning to think of maybe doing a regulated 2c Cree XRE mod with a 700 milliamp downboy regulator. :thinking:
I have a 2c regulated TV1L Luxeon3 Magmod with 2 lithium ions batteries that keeps making the trip with me to the john at night.

The 3c Cree XRE magmod tutorial will be done 1st when I'm rested up this weekend. 

Then I'll do the harder, regulated one later. :naughty:


----------



## IsaacHayes (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

cool, look forward to how you do the 3c in 2D. I have my own way which comes out nice, but requires a vice, plairs, and brute strength to reshapen and cut down the stock spring.


----------



## 3rd_shift (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*



> vice, plairs, and brute strength to reshapen and cut down the stock spring.


LOL!
That's the same way that I do that.


----------



## wquiles (Dec 15, 2006)

*Re: Magmodding step by step with a megabyte of pics to show you how.*

Great job dude! Nice job on the step by step photos :rock: 

Will


----------



## 3rd_shift (Dec 26, 2006)

The completed 4D tutorial light is for sale if anyone wants it. 
$50 shipped USA.

If you need 2 of them, add $40 for the 2nd one, and give me a few days to get that one done. 

My paypal address is in my sigline.
Any type will work.
If you would rather pay via post office money order, just say so here in this thread.
I'll then let you know my money order mailing address.
The light ships upon receipt of either payment method. 

Edit:
Withdrawn.
I'm keeping it.


----------



## kavvika (Feb 28, 2007)

I was going to do this mod, but it seems H22A is out of heatsinks.
Does anyone know where I can purchase a comparable one?


----------



## Essexman (Feb 28, 2007)

Not sure what emitter you are thinking of using?, but what about these from Litemania:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/153522


----------



## jumpstat (Feb 28, 2007)

Thank you for sharing the knowledge.


----------



## kavvika (Feb 28, 2007)

Thank you for the link. I was leaning towards using a Seoul P4. I might end up waiting a week for Litemania to start selling the D version of the heatsink.

EDIT: Looks like I won't be waiting a week; they were just released tonight!


----------

