# NEED: Source for Steel Bars - Thinking of making custom Knives, Pry Bars, Etc.



## jtice (Sep 25, 2006)

I have been looking at alot of the customs knives out there,
and especially the cool custom Pry Bars, Impact Tools, Etc.

I was thinking of making some of my own,
but I am not sure what the cost of the materials would be, or where to purchase them.

Where is a good place to get sheets, and bars of good quality steel to work with?

Thanks
~John


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## wptski (Sep 25, 2006)

Your talking a hugh span in steel size there! As far steel for knives goes, glance at Blade or Tactical Knives for ads. There's a place in Ohio, I think that sells flat stock for making knives. I've seen them at knife shows around Detroit but I can't remember their name right now!


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## jtice (Sep 25, 2006)

Yea, I know,
just picking a steel is gonna be a huge process,
was looking at McMaster Carr just now, lots there.

Just about any size will work,
I will figure out what I want to make out of it, once I have it in hand and get an idea 

But sizes like 1" x 6" should work.
any typical knife thickness, up to 1/4" would be nice.

hhmmm Ohio you say?
that would be nice, thats nearby, and shipping would be fast.

~John


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## wptski (Sep 25, 2006)

I just got a Tactical Knives magazine the other day, I'll take a look when I get home. Wait a minute, I think that it's Koval or Koval Knives. Not sure if they have a website though!

Yeah they do: http://www.kovalknives.com/


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## jtice (Sep 25, 2006)

hmmm, search found this.
http://www.kovalknives.com/

they are located in Davis, OK though.

~John


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## wptski (Sep 25, 2006)

jtice said:


> hmmm, search found this.
> http://www.kovalknives.com/
> 
> they are located in Davis, OK though.
> ...


They just merged with Jantz, maybe that's why? I thought they were closer to me.


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## Calamityville_Horror (Sep 25, 2006)

McMaster is the only vendor I have experience with for metals, but I can recommend them highly. I have received orders the next day (they have a warehouse in Ohio, and I am in Pittsburgh).

However, depending on the weight/dimensions of what you are ordering, shipping could total a significant fraction of the order cost. It might be worthwhile to break out the yellow pages and see if there is a local metal stock vendor.

Random: http://users.ameritech.net/knives/steels.htm may be useful in helping you make your steel selection.


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## jtice (Sep 25, 2006)

Im in WV, and would only need some small bars, so hopefully shipping wont be too bad.

Thanks for the input guys!
~John


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## MoonRise (Sep 25, 2006)

John,

You can also check http://www.onlinemetals.com for some tools steels or other metals.

How are you going to heat-treat your steel? Heat-treating can make or break (often literally!) a blade. Good heat treating of an OK blade steel will usually make a decent to good blade, where as poor heat treatment of a nominally 'superior' steel will make a poor blade.

Are you going to try forging or stock-removal? How much do you want to 'make' of the knife, raw blank of steel to finished knife or assemble and finish of already made blade?

If you want to go the surplus-route, AFAIK you can try a hunk of old leaf spring from the junk yard for blade steel. Or you can get some old files from a garage sale and use that as your blade material.

So many choices. For hobby purposes, reclaimed materials may be just fine to make a knife. Commercial and custom knife makers need the consistency and reliability of a steel supplier, you might not.


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## PEU (Sep 25, 2006)

Jtice, check out this link: http://www.hossom.com/tutorial/jonesy/ it shows how to make a super cheap knife using spring steel (cheap if not free) it will give you an idea on what to do.

Good luck!


Pablo


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## wptski (Sep 25, 2006)

Broken power hacksaw blades has made many a knife blade too!


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## jtice (Sep 25, 2006)

Thanks alot for the info guys.

I am just looking to mess around and have alittle fun with it,
bot really looking to make things to sell, etc.

And I would like to do this really cheap.
The flat spring steel is a great idea.
I didnt know it was 5160 !!! thats what my Ranger knife is, and its TOUGH.
Of corse its all in the heat treating.

I will have to ask around, and see if I can find something like this locally 

Pablo, great link, I will read that tonight !

~John


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## Topper (Sep 25, 2006)

Years ago I used www.admiralsteel.com you might take a look. I only made a few for myself and I sent them to Texas for heat treat.
Topper


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## highorder (Sep 26, 2006)

I get all my spring steel from the RV/trailer shop here in town. they always have usable pieces for free. (5160)


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## jtice (Sep 26, 2006)

Not alot of places that I know of locally here, but I will look around.

Too bad they are so heavy, i would have someone mail me a few 

~John


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## lukus (Sep 26, 2006)

Most of the knife supply companies sell barstock. Texas Knifemakers Supply has a large variety of sizes and types. They also do the heat treating. You buy the steel annealed, do what you want, send it to them and they'll heat treat and can do a cryo treat after for a little more toughness. I've used them in the past and they were always fair. Website is easy to find.


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## karlthev (Sep 26, 2006)

Pick up a copy of Blade Magazine or Knives Illustrated and look in the classified sections. More steel than you can use.



Karl


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## butcher_block (Oct 11, 2006)

stop in over at the bladeforums.com
im over there as a knife maker in the makers forum as butcher_block also
tons of info over there 
hope this helps


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## lukus (Oct 11, 2006)

wptski said:


> Broken power hacksaw blades has made many a knife blade too!



Power hacksaw blades can make some good knife blades. They have to be the older blades that don't have the welded tooth strip and lower carbon spine. They are already hardened and can be ground hardened with a little patience. Saves trying to harden the steel yourself or sending it off. The older blades are usually M6 steel and there can be a pretty big difference blade to blade on the hardness. A good one can hold a very durable and fine edge. 

My grand dad was a knifemaker and made blades from just about every steel out there. He had a set of wood carving blades he made from power hacksaws and they would hold a shaving edge like you wouldn't believe. Just don't let them rust.


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## scott.cr (Oct 13, 2006)

I didn't see this mentioned so I'll mention it. 

MSC Direct carries almost all of Starrett's offerings in air, water and oil-hardening tool steels in flat strip stock. (Example.) It's cheap and they have everything from D2 to O1.

Personally I love to work D2 with a sharp file, but I have had some very successful (but slow) blade-making experiences with a flycutter to get the basic blade shape, and the flycutter made the tool marks on the blade that I was after. I sharpened this particular blade with two eight-inch grinding wheels belly-to-belly spinning in opposite directions... just drop the end to be sharpened into the gap and grind away...


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## jtice (Oct 13, 2006)

Thanks for all the great info guys ! :thumbsup:

I have a couple very nice members sending me some steel now. :thanks:

Might invest in a cheapo belt sander soon. 

~John


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## lukus (Oct 13, 2006)

A bit of advise on the cheapo belt sanders: A 1" X whatever length belt sander is almost useless for grinding a blade. I have one that I use for work on handles because it will do small radiuses, but grinding blades would be frustrating at best. A 2" X whatever is much better for grinding blades. I have a 2" X 42" and a 2" X 72". Much easier to index the blade while grinding.

The bigger 4" X whatever with the round disc grinder used mostly for wood working are actually pretty good for grinding knife blades. I prefer flat grinds, and with this rig you can do your profile grinding on the disc and the bevels on the belt or the disc. You can find those fairly economically and in most large box stores.


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## highorder (Oct 13, 2006)

the only thing I use my 1x60" belt sander for is final sharpening of blades. woth a 220 grit belt, it has a soft free cutting action that is very controlable.


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