# $1 homemade Q3 copper heatsink (+pics)



## mosport (May 11, 2006)

I wanted to share how to build a homemade Q3 copper heatsink from a common copper plumbing connector.

Earlier this week my Q3 arrived and the bezel was off within 5 mins of opening the package. Taking a peek inside, I found a nicely tinted SWOL star and decided to run R123's for max brightness. Originally I wanted to buy ViReN's CNC copper heatsink only to find out his last batch sold out. So my goal was to see if I could make my own improvised version.

For heatsinking, I started with a 3/4" x 1/2" copper plumbing bushing available from any Canadian Tire or Home Depot for about $1. First off I measured the stock Q3 aluminum spacer at 6.6mm high x 21.2mm dia, so the bushing's 22mm dia needed cutting and filing down to fit. Using a plumbing pipe cutting wheel, I marked out 7mm as the cut length and attacked it with a hacksaw. Thankfully copper is a relatively soft metal and easy to work with. I'm using a star so if you're using an emitter, you'll need to add the circuit board and star thickness onto the height of stock aluminum spacer to determine the proper emitter platform height. 















After separation, I reduced the outer diameter with a file and sandpaper. The trick is to have the heatsink fit snugly and rattle free within the Q3 body so that contact is made with the walls to efficiently conduct heat away and into your hand. Once the heatsink is able to slip past the theads and into the Q3 bore, some more sanding is needed to match the stock aluminum spacer height.

Borrowing from chimo's penny trick, 2 pennies were sanded and soldered together to make a plug underneath the star. Followed by filing down the edges and soldering into place, flux really helped out during this step! Holding the slug with tweezers, a Bic lighter was used to heat things up to the point where solder would be drawn into the joint. Basically it's the same technique used to sweat plumbing pipe, only without the propane torch part. 




































One more sanding step was needed to make the solder flush with the copper surface, wiring holes were drilled and Ceramique thermal compound applied. When I went to test fit the circuit, the copper walls were so thick that the stock Q3 board wouldn't fit. The interference required removing material to clear the inductor coil (?) standing at 3.5mm. Looking back, I should've used the cut end of the copper body as my star mounting surface and the stepped end as the board contact side to save some grinding.

Sorry I didn't take any pics of the final steps because I was so eager to solder the star and test everything out. More Q3 mod parts are in the mail so once they arrive I'll have another chance to take pics.

Testing it out, the body was slightly warm to the touch after sitting 5 mins indicating that the heatsink was doing it's job. Too bad I only did a quick turn-on check before modding, so I'm unable to make any back-to-back comparisons. So although I met my goal of making an improvised version with increased thermal mass, it was time intensive and if given a choice I'd prefer enjoying one that's pre-made.


Thanks for looking and happy modding!

Derek


EDIT:
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Added pics of the finished heatsink above.


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## bombelman (May 11, 2006)

Cool.... Nice cuts too !

Now how about 1 for my Arc4+ ?


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## DUQ (May 12, 2006)

Awsome. If I ever pick up a Q3, im doing the same.


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## Ledean (May 12, 2006)

Good job.


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## KingSmono (May 12, 2006)

So it was really a $1.02 homemade Q3 copper heatsink...  Good job!

-Allen


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## ViReN (May 12, 2006)

Great Thing 

I like the innovation...


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## wquiles (May 12, 2006)

Very clever - :goodjob: 

Will


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## jsr (May 12, 2006)

Wow, nice and clean! How do you people file your pennies down so nicely? My pennies always look like crap and are uneven.


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## chimo (May 12, 2006)

Great job! That's a great example of the use of readily available resources and represents the spirit of modding. I really like mods like these.

Paul


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## Allnew2me (May 12, 2006)

Okay let me see if I understand all of this, because I just got my Q3 yesterday. If I run CR123s in it it is fine the way it is, but if I use rechargables I get even more brightness? But the heat is too much so it needs a better heatsink? How do you get the head off, it seems fused to the body? How much brighter will it be on the rechargables? Thanks from a guy that only has stock lights so far!


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## jsr (May 12, 2006)

Allnew2me - the Q3 is the easiest light I've taken apart! Tho it has threadlock, it's not that tight and the texturing all over helps the tools you use to get grip (vs. other lights I've disassembled that are smooth textured and resultingly more difficult). The simplest method I use that also leaves no mars/scars/etc. on the Q3 is using a pair of strap wrenches, one on the head, other on the body (under the clip). Twist in opposite directions and that's it. The Q3 body is actually made of 4pcs - the head, the part just under the head (that has the clip attached), the textured body (very short), and the tailcap.
I don't have measurements, but will say it's a LOT brighter on R123As! It does heat up quicker. I made my Cu heatsink with a couple of filed down pennies soldered together and attached to the bottom of the Star via thermal adhesive. mosport's heatsink is a lot nicer than mine tho. On mine, I continue to use the stock silver Al ring with the copper pennies in the middle. Mine's is ugly as I don't file down pennies very nicely.


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## Blindasabat (May 12, 2006)

I somehow had not seen a description of the penny method for additional heatsinking. I may have to do that because I run RCR in mine. 

Strap wrenches worked well for me taking the Q3 bezel off.

I once saw someone's shoebox Lumen measurements for Q3 Cr vrs RCR: 
Q3 CR123: 44
Q3 RCR123: 51

That is a 16% increase. These are just RELATIVE measurements that someone made, not calibrated.


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## mosport (May 12, 2006)

Thanks guys, glad you liked this one! I'm having more fun with my mods now that I have the proper tools to work with, modding is pretty addictive stuff and maybe they should put those warning labels on flashlights like cigarettes.

Don't forget to add Canadian 15% sales taxes too KingSmono 

JSR- to get the pennies nice and smooth without much fuss, use a small fine file and reduce only the rim of the penny and work your way around (but leave the middle part untouched). Once that's done, get some 180 grit sandpaper and lay it on a flat surface to sand down the raised details. Another trick is to wad up a piece of duct tape into a small ball and tack it on the back of the penny for something to hold onto while sanding. Sanding in small circles will give you flat pennies in no time, then finish off with finer grit paper to give the surface a nicer finish. 

The Canadian mint changed penny composition to coated zinc cores after 1997, so pre-1997 (98% copper) coins are the ones to use here. Not sure when the US mint changed over, can anyone verify?

To get the Q3 bezel off, I unscrewed the tailcap to remove the battery and inserted a pencil to hold onto. It took about 90 seconds worth of hairdrying to get the body hot enough to pop, using a cloth over my hands to twist the bezel apart.

Hopefully my parts are waiting for me at home so I can take more pics.


Derek


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## Randy Shackleford (May 12, 2006)

I used a hair dryer for about 1 minute on the QIII to heat the head and then, twist it off the body (using gloves).


The TWO CENT soultion:

I did the two penny trick mod with the alum stock ring. I also added some Arctic Silver 5 thermal compund to the sides of the QIII body where the the ring makes contact (below the plastic retainer threads). It came out pretty nice. And, it works quite well (the QIII gets very warm after a few minutes).


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## mosport (May 13, 2006)

*Re: $1 homemade Q3 copper heatsink (pics updated)*

Pics of the finished heatsink assembly are now updated in the first post. 

Q3 FLuPIC came in the mail but still waiting for a star to arrive. Here's a shot of the stock board, copper heatsink and SWOL star beside the stock aluminum ring with FLuPIC underneath.







Quickly checked to confirm the Q3 FLuPIC board sits comfortably under the plumbing connector. If you're using this combination there's no height interference like with the stock board's inductor coil. 

---Added Info---

However, the stock driver measures 21mm and the FLuPIC measures 19.5mm, so there is a possibility of the board shifting off centre while installing the black retaining ring. Since the heatsink mod is handmade, different wall thickness might place the +ve board lead closer than desired. To be safer, coat the heatsink underside with an insulator to prevent shorts. I used ToePro hockey skate repair liquid because it was handy, but clear nailpoilish, liquid electrical tape and paint will work nicely too.

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One more trick to add (more of a repair). While removing the Q3 switch assembly to add a tailstand o-ring (thanks goldserve!), one of the tiny board-to-body negative prongs snagged on my shirt and broke off, resulting in a broken light  

Started to worry for a sec, but managed to rig up a McGuyver style fix using a staple (!)







Figured that while everything was apart I'd remove the 'tactical' switch (SING FAI) and retrofit the original type Q3 switch, now the clicking action feels a little more firm. Going to see how I like this switch with the FLuPIC, but might swap back to the momentary type in the end.













Thanks for everyone's interest and the PM's,

Derek


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## goldserve (May 13, 2006)

*Re: $1 homemade Q3 copper heatsink (pics updated)*

Looking forward to get one of these! Looks beautiful!


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## jashhash (May 13, 2006)

*Re: $1 homemade Q3 copper heatsink (pics updated)*

If you use pennies make sure you use ones that are older than 1980 because ones are only copper plated zinc.


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## Darksky (May 14, 2006)

*Re: $1 homemade Q3 copper heatsink (pics updated)*

:goodjob: 
Nicely done. Made out of everyday bits as you said 'McGuyver style' Which is often the most satisfying way to do things.

Eryk


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## widgnwhacker (May 14, 2006)

*Re: $1 homemade Q3 copper heatsink (pics updated)*

Very cool mod !


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## moraino (May 14, 2006)

*Re: $1 homemade Q3 copper heatsink (pics updated)*

Can someone tell me how the new Q3 switch works? Is it the same as Dorcy 1AA 3LED light switch which has to screw tight to be constant on?


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## thingsforjason (Jun 22, 2006)

mosport said:


> ...
> The Canadian mint changed penny composition to coated zinc cores after 1997, so pre-1997 (98% copper) coins are the ones to use here. Not sure when the US mint changed over, can anyone verify?
> ...
> Derek


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penny_(U.S._coin)
FYI, this says that any US pennies from 1944 to 1981 should work (95% copper). I'm in the process of filing down a 1972 and 1974 penny right now. Gotta do something while I wait for the rest of my Q3 parts to come in.


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## savumaki (Jun 22, 2006)

*Re: $1 homemade Q3 copper heatsink (pics updated)*

Great job mosport;

BTW if you don't want the switch you took out I'll buy it from you or trade for the stock I have in my Q3.

B4 this mod I used the two penny idea (which I got from a thread where the modder stayed international by using a Cdn and a US penny!!)
I direct drive mine and use RCR w UCL lens, great light. I took the head off using a hairdryer (and gloves). I figured there would be less mess than the hot bath method, worked fine. I also removed the clip from mine which I found to be virtually useless.(gave that away)

Again, the mod looks great; consider yourself 'bitten'.

Karl


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## mosport (Jun 23, 2006)

*Re: $1 homemade Q3 copper heatsink (pics updated)*

Thanks for the kind words Karl, I also removed the clip from my Q3 and filled the holes up with JB Weld.

PM sent too,


Derek


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## thingsforjason (Jul 1, 2006)

*Re: $1 homemade Q3 copper heatsink (pics updated)*

So i've finished filing down my pennies, but here's the question: How do I go about soldering them together? 

In the original post, it talks about using a lighter and pliers, which i get...but do i just sandwich little piecies of solder in between the pennies and squeeze? or do i solder along the edges?

Questions, questions....


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## thingsforjason (Jul 2, 2006)

*Re: $1 homemade Q3 copper heatsink (pics updated)*

It's all good; I got it figured out. Here's how I did it:

After filing down the pennies, I busted out my trusty Radio Shack soldering iron (it's all i got...for now) and flipped the switch the 30 Watts. While it was warming up, I used my file to gouge a cross hatch pattern on the sides I going to solder together; i don't know if that really helped, but i had nothing else to do. 

Once the iron was hot, I blobed solder on each of the pennies in various spots, again on the sides that were getting soldered together and tried to spread that around. Then, using needle nose pliers i set one penny on top of the other. Finally, I just set my soldering iron firmly on the top of the penny sandwich and pressed, while using the pliers to keep the pennies lined up, until the solder melted again and the excess came out the sides.

Hack job, I know, but it seemed to work for me.


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## Mirage_Man (Jul 2, 2006)

*Re: $1 homemade Q3 copper heatsink (pics updated)*

After sanding flat my two pennies I filed one penny's diameter down till it fit inside the ring. Then I put a chamfer around both pennies where they faced each other. Then I flowed the solder all the way around the edges. Once together I took my dremel with a sanding drum and sanded the egde of the non filed penny until it was even with the filed penny. 

Hmmm.. did that make sense?

MM


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## Icarus (Jul 2, 2006)

*Re: $1 homemade Q3 copper heatsink (pics updated)*

Nice and clean mod! :goodjob:


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## tonyd (Jul 9, 2006)

:goodjob: Nice work. Rather than a final sanding for fit you may wish to place the copper heat sink in the freezer for a day or so then heat the Al light just prior to inserting the frozen heatsink. This will give a good tight fir when the temps equilbrate.


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## wmpwi (Nov 30, 2006)

As a variation on the theme, I was plotting out the same mod while waiting for the new Cree to come in the mail. I was really surprised to see this post as it was almost exactly what I was planning. But once I saw the post, I got a slightly different idea with I suspect equally good results.











In my variation, I used the same copper part, but rather than file and sand it down to fit, as I only have a dremel type thing, I cut a slice out and pushed it together to make the smaller diameter. I left out the pennies because I wanted to use the Dorcy AAA driver technique that was popularized a while back. I used a Rev 3 board and ground it down a bit to fit and drilled out the reflector just enough. Fits like a glove.

Not sure if I'm going to fry anything but I have a Li-ion 700 mA and the output is a wall of light.

BTW - Excellent idea mosport


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## mosport (Dec 1, 2006)

Very clever wmpwi! 

Filing down copper for a tight fit can be a pain, I like how you pulled off this mod with a few cuts. 

Thanks for sharing the Dorcy driver mod too, read about it but never saw the pics.


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## wmpwi (Dec 1, 2006)

mosport, you were the inspiration. I was all ready to start filing and sanding til I saw how much you had to do. I suspect lazyness is the real mother of invention.



mosport said:


> Very clever wmpwi!
> 
> Filing down copper for a tight fit can be a pain, I like how you pulled off this mod with a few cuts.
> 
> Thanks for sharing the Dorcy driver mod too, read about it but never saw the pics.


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