# My New Lathe



## Mirage_Man

Some may remember that I ordered a new lathe back in June, a Precision Matthews PM-1340T. I still don't have it in my possession but it finally made it to the states, cleared customs and arrived at the dealer. The dealer was kind enough to snap a few pictures of it to quench my thirst :sick2: . If all goes as planned it will be here next week. I will still have to wire the rotary phase converter before I can fire it up though. I don't want to do that until the new machine is in it's spot, which I haven't decided yet.

The pictures show the machine as it was during inspection and does not show the DRO, handles or the other removable pieces. It also has some cosmoline still on it. As I'm told they will re-apply more cosmoline to prevent any oxidation during transport.

On to the pictures. I will of course take more of my own when I actually have the machine. I am attaching thumbnails that you can click on for full sized images. (More pictures in posts #8 and #14)


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## DaFABRICATA

AWWW MAN!!!
I can't wait to see what you make with this beauty!!!
That machine looks very nice!

Hopefully I will be able to order mine before winter.


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## ICUDoc

Man that looks so cool. They always look nice with no chips on them! It looks pretty long- what's the distance b/w centres M_M? I hope it arrives soon for you - are the tools for you current lathe the right size for this one? QCTP? Mmmmmmm-lathe......


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## griff

CONGRATS BRIAN!!! She looks GREAT!!
where are you taking her to for DINNER??
How BIG was the ring??


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## LuxLuthor

Holy Moly! That is too beautiful to get it dirty! I'm amazed at some of this milling hardware. I also look forward to seeing what you make with this. Congrats, you are getting an early Christmas present.


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## wquiles

That is awesome Brian !!!

:twothumbs :twothumbs :twothumbs


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## Mirage_Man

Thanks Guys. It is a 13x40 so the distance between centers is 40". My current lathe's tool holder is an AXA size. This machine will use the BXA size. The tools I have will work for both machines.


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## Mirage_Man

Some more photos the dealer just sent me .


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## tino_ale

MM, I'm no expert in lathe but your's certainly look very neat, sturdy and heavy :tinfoil:

I envy you so much, congrats!!

just noticed : is it glow in dark epoxy that I see at the center of the dials?


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## tino_ale

double post


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## Data

That is very nice, congrats! Can't wait to see what you do with it!


Cheers
Dave


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## Torque1st

It is tooooo purdy, make a nice lexan case with a lock to keep it clean...


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## Chodes

I know nothing about lathes..but as you do , looking forward to seeing what you make.


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## Mirage_Man

Well I got the word today that my machine is finally on its way. It should arrive on Tuesday at my work. Then I'll have to move it home next weekend. 

Here's a few more pictures... The first one shows it being strapped into the truck . Next up are inside the headstock and then a couple shots showing the Newall C80 DRO scales installed :naughty:.


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## Anglepoise

You must be very excited...........

I know the feeling.


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## Mirage_Man

Anglepoise said:


> You must be very excited...........
> 
> I know the feeling.



Is it that obvious??  I feel like a kid at Christmas waiting for Santa.


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## wquiles

Mirage_Man said:


> Well I got the word today that my machine is finally on its way. It should arrive on Tuesday at my work. Then I'll have to move it home next weekend.
> 
> Here's a few more pictures... The first one shows it being strapped into the truck . Next up are inside the headstock and then a couple shots showing the Newall C80 DRO scales installed :naughty:.



Man, that is freaking awesome Brian - "almost" here


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## squale

Have you received your lathe yet? I just ordered a PM1640 from Matt. He is a great guy to deal with!


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## Mirage_Man

squale said:


> Have you received your lathe yet? I just ordered a PM1640 from Matt. He is a great guy to deal with!



It's funny you should ask. I just got home from my work where the lathe was just delivered.  The truck got in around 9AM. It's sitting in the warehouse where it will stay until this weekend when I can move it home. 

You are right, Matt is definitely A#1 in my book! I couldn't have asked for better customer service. He went out of his way to answer any question I had and believe me I had a ton. 

Here's a few pics I took this AM. The lathe is covered with an anti-rust spray and will need to be cleaned off. Hence the dull look. The truck had a load of some kind of candy that had to be removed before we could get to the lathe. I have to say it was really nerve racking watching it being lifted of the truck with our fork lift. It's on the smaller side and I think the lathe was right near its limits. But thank God it went smoothly! :twothumbs

I will take more pictures of the move and also some more after it's cleaned up and in place.


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## PEU

Congrats Brian!!! awesome machine!


Pablo


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## squale

that's great! I almost ordered this same machine but instead decided to go with the larger 1640 because I cut a lot of stainless steel parts and wanted the extra weight.

I totally agree with you on Matt's customer service... he is top notch... how did you find him btw? I found his name through the PracticalMachinists forum.

I couldn't be happier with his service and he is a very knowledable guy with any sort of lathe, mill, etc. questions. I may be buying a vertical bandsaw next from him. Then sometime next year I am going to look for another CNC lathe for my shop but I want to wait and see if Matt can get any with the Centroid control. He only has Fanuc and Siemens right now on cnc lathes.


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## wquiles

Mirage_Man said:


> It's funny you should ask. I just got home from my work where the lathe was just delivered.  The truck got in around 9AM. It's sitting in the warehouse where it will stay until this weekend when I can move it home.
> 
> You are right, Matt is definitely A#1 in my book! I couldn't have asked for better customer service. He went out of his way to answer any question I had and believe me I had a ton.
> 
> Here's a few pics I took this AM. The lathe is covered with an anti-rust spray and will need to be cleaned off. Hence the dull look. The truck had a load of some kind of candy that had to be removed before we could get to the lathe. I have to say it was really nerve racking watching it being lifted of the truck with our fork lift. It's on the smaller side and I think the lathe was right near its limits. But thank God it went smoothly! :twothumbs
> 
> I will take more pictures of the move and also some more after it's cleaned up and in place.



Man - it has to kill you to see the machine there, but not yet at your house!

How exactly are you moving it to your house? Are you contracting some service/company to do it?

Will


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## Mirage_Man

squale said:


> that's great! I almost ordered this same machine but instead decided to go with the larger 1640 because I cut a lot of stainless steel parts and wanted the extra weight.
> 
> I totally agree with you on Matt's customer service... he is top notch... how did you find him btw? I found his name through the PracticalMachinists forum.



The 1640 looked like a nice machine too but this one stretched the budget as far as I could go. 

Yes the PM forum is how I found out about Precision Matthews machinery too. I'm glad I did. You know this machine is actually a Clausing Colchester?



wquiles said:


> Man - it has to kill you to see the machine there, but not yet at your house!
> 
> How exactly are you moving it to your house? Are you contracting some service/company to do it?
> 
> Will



Well you know Will, I've waited so long it just seems par for the course that I have to be tormented by it for the next few days. 

The plan is to rent a drop deck trailer and use Roll-a-Lifts to get it home.


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## squale

why did it take so long for you to get?


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## Mirage_Man

squale said:


> why did it take so long for you to get?



Freight company shipping delays. It was not in stock. So I pre-ordered it. I had to wait for the slow boat from China. Then Customs had to hold it up too.


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## Torque1st

Customs had to make sure none of the gears was made from Plutonium etc.


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## wquiles

Torque1st said:


> Customs had to make sure none of the gears was made from Plutonium etc.


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## squale

well I ordered mine last week it has to come from China, Matt told me it shouldn't be any more than 12 weeks shipment


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## Mirage_Man

squale said:


> well I ordered mine last week it has to come from China, Matt told me it shouldn't be any more than 12 weeks shipment



I ordered mine at the end of June. Got it yesterday. Matt has no control over the shipping lines or customs so I didn't blame him.


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## squale

okay, well make sure you report back on the quality of the machine... did you get a DRO?


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## Mirage_Man

squale said:


> did you get a DRO?



Yes, I went for the Newall C80.


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## Mirage_Man

It's 2AM moving day. I can't sleep so I'm mentally preparing for the move. The equipment and trailer rental place opens at 7AM. I plan to be there when the door opens . My B.I.L. and a buddy are gonna help with the move. I'm hoping to have it back to my house and in place by Noon cause the electrician will be here around 2PM to wire up the phase converter and the machine. 

Don't worry I'm charging up the digital camera as I type so I can document the move.

Stay tuned....


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## Torque1st

Good luck with the move!

Remember, when moving heavy things: Never let any body part get under the object and never get any body part between the object and an immovable object. -This means don't get below it on a ramp or stairs either.

Always block and have secondary safety restraints.

Then:
One person is boss, think a move over twice, communicate, repeat commands on hearing, initiate commands 3-2-1-Move, move slow.

Heavy things can kill and maim.

Get some sleep!


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## chipwillis

Good luck Brian.


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## wquiles

Torque1st said:


> Good luck with the move!
> 
> Remember, when moving heavy things: Never let any body part get under the object and never get any body part between the object and an immovable object. -This means don't get below it on a ramp or stairs either.
> 
> Always block and have secondary safety restraints.
> 
> Then:
> One person is boss, think a move over twice, communicate, repeat commands on hearing, initiate commands 3-2-1-Move, move slow.
> 
> Heavy things can kill and maim.
> 
> Get some sleep!



+1 - please be careful Brian 

Will


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## Mirage_Man

Well Guys, the move is complete. The lathe is in position, the RPC is wired and the lathe has power. It's a beautiful thing!  However my garage looks a bomb went off from moving things out to get it in. I'll need to take some time to re-arrange and organize the shop now. I need to make room for a mill too.

Anyway, I took as many pictures as I could throughout the move so I could share them with everyone. As soon as I get some time I'll post them here, maybe this evening.


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## wquiles

Congrats - glad the move went on safely 

Now, we need PICTURES !!! :naughty: :twothumbs 

Will


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## PEU

wquiles said:


> Congrats - glad the move went on safely
> 
> Now, we need PICTURES !!! :naughty: :twothumbs
> 
> Will



Yeah!





(of the moving  )


Pablo


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## Mirage_Man

PEU said:


> Yeah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (of the moving  )
> 
> 
> Pablo



OK, OK! Here are some. I will add text later along with the lathe in its new resting place.


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## squale

how do you find the quality of the lathe? and how was the packing from Matt?


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## gadget_lover

A forklift is such a handy thing to have. Hmmm. 

Looks like you are in for LOTS of fun. That's much bigger than I expected based on the original posts.

Congrats!

Daniel


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## Mirage_Man

squale said:


> how do you find the quality of the lathe? and how was the packing from Matt?



So far the quality is what I expected of a Clausing or Harrison, outstanding.

Not much to say about the packing. It was wrapped in heavy plastic and bolted to a VERY beefy skid. It made it without a scratch.



gadget_lover said:


> A forklift is such a handy thing to have. Hmmm.
> 
> Looks like you are in for LOTS of fun. That's much bigger than I expected based on the original posts.
> 
> Congrats!



Thanks. 

Yes, the forklift was a big time saver. It would have taken much longer to move if I did not have it at my disposal. 

It's bigger than I thought it was going to be as well.


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## squale

lets hear some reports on making chips and how nice of a finish you can get. let us know the spindle runout when you get a minute too that would be great!

thanks


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## Mirage_Man

squale said:


> lets hear some reports on making chips and how nice of a finish you can get. let us know the spindle runout when you get a minute too that would be great!
> 
> thanks



I still need to get the DRO display mounted then true-up the new back plate for the 6-jaw. When I do the black plate I'll check the run out. I also need to borrow a machinist's level so I can level it.

I couldn't stand it and did make some chips on a piece of aluminum. The finish is fantastic :twothumbs. Pictures will follow at some point.


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## wquiles

Mirage_Man said:


> I couldn't stand it and did make some chips on a piece of aluminum. The finish is fantastic :twothumbs. Pictures will follow at some point.



:twothumbs


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## squale

what's the machinists level do?


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## Mirage_Man

squale said:


> what's the machinists level do?



Helps level the lathe to within a few thou. It's critical to level a lathe. The ways need to be parallel to each other at least in the same plane. Leveling is the easiest way I know of to do that. There's always the collar method too I suppose.


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## cmacclel

Mirage_Man said:


> Helps level the lathe to within a few thou. It's critical to level a lathe. The ways need to be parallel to each other at least in the same plane. Leveling is the easiest way I know of to do that. There's always the collar method too I suppose.


 

So your not leveling the lathe your leveling the ways?? Huh?

So your going to shim under the lathe mounting bolts and try to twist the bed straight? For what we do I think your fine the way it is. Maybe if your trying to keep a few tenths over 10 inches I suppose 

How much louder is the geared lathe compared to you old one? Doesn't this M300 close have a direct mount chuck? 

Maybe your adapting your newly purchased 6 jaw with a adapter plate?

Congrats!!
Mac


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## choppers

Great pics Brian and congrats!!! That thing looks sweet. I can't wait to see more pics.


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## precisionworks

> So your going to shim under the lathe mounting bolts and try to twist the bed straight?



When a lathe is manufactured, the seasoned & stress relieved bed casting is clamped to a dead flat metal surface plate (normally better than .0005" at any point on the plate). The bed ways are ground to finished dimension while attached to this plate, which assures that the centerline of the machine runs dead through the center of the headstock bore & dead through the tailstock ram bore. In this "no twist" or "level" condition, the lathe will turn a true cylinder without measurable taper.

After finish grinding, the bed is unclamped from the plate and the machine is assembled. When the lathe arrives at its final location, it's important to make sure that the bed has no twist. I've set up a few machines (the largest was over 10,000#) and even those big ones have to be leveled or the machine will turn a taper. The reason is that there isn't a floor in the world that's as dead flat as the surface plate used to machine the bed.

Shimming the legs, or using height adjustable machine mounts, brings the bed back to the super flat condition that existed when the bed was ground. Any time a critical fit has to be turned (like a bearing press fit that has to be within tenths), the precision level comes out & the machine is readjusted.






The Starrett 199Z is the gold standard in a Master Precision Level. At 15" long, weighing 7#, it's substantial. Each division of the main vial indicates .0005 inches/foot. It's pricey (just under $800 retail) and there are any number of imported levels that will also indicate .0005 inches/foot. Mine is 12" long, made in Poland, and cost under $150.


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## Mirage_Man

precisionworks said:


> When a lathe is manufactured, the seasoned & stress relieved bed casting is clamped to a dead flat metal surface plate (normally better than .0005" at any point on the plate). The bed ways are ground to finished dimension while attached to this plate, which assures that the centerline of the machine runs dead through the center of the headstock bore & dead through the tailstock ram bore. In this "no twist" or "level" condition, the lathe will turn a true cylinder without measurable taper.
> 
> After finish grinding, the bed is unclamped from the plate and the machine is assembled. When the lathe arrives at its final location, it's important to make sure that the bed has no twist. I've set up a few machines (the largest was over 10,000#) and even those big ones have to be leveled or the machine will turn a taper. The reason is that there isn't a floor in the world that's as dead flat as the surface plate used to machine the bed.
> 
> Shimming the legs, or using height adjustable machine mounts, brings the bed back to the super flat condition that existed when the bed was ground. Any time a critical fit has to be turned (like a bearing press fit that has to be within tenths), the precision level comes out & the machine is readjusted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Starrett 199Z is the gold standard in a Master Precision Level. At 15" long, weighing 7#, it's substantial. Each division of the main vial indicates .0005 inches/foot. It's pricey (just under $800 retail) and there are any number of imported levels that will also indicate .0005 inches/foot. Mine is 12" long, made in Poland, and cost under $150.



Yeah, what he said :thumbsup:


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## Anglepoise

Mirage_Man said:


> then true-up the new back plate for the 6-jaw. When I do the black plate I'll check the run out. I also need to borrow a machinist's level so I can level it.



I agree with precisionworks and would add a few tips. 

Get everything leveled up and try and get the weight even on the mounting feet.You can be level, but unless all feet are taking even weight, you wont stay level for long. And get all this done, run things for a bit and then re check. 

Then true up your backplates as the LAST item. Moore and Write ( spelling wrong ) make a very nice spirit level around $150. Personally this is an item worth owning unless you intend to stay at your current location for ever. My lathe has been moved a few times in its 24 years with me.

Good luck,,,,


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## Mirage_Man

squale said:


> lets hear some reports on making chips and how nice of a finish you can get. let us know the spindle runout when you get a minute too that would be great!
> 
> thanks



Just came in from tinkering some. I've still got to level the machine, mount the DRO display and then get the 6-jaw mounted. However I could not help but make some chips. I turned, bored, faced and threaded a piece of titanium. All I have to say at this point is WOW! This machine is awesome. Granted I'm coming from a 50 yr. old South Bend, but damn what a difference. The finish on every aspect of turning blows away the SB. I can't wait to get to making real parts. 

Oh and I took off the cheap 3-jaw that came with it and checked the spindle run-out. With my Mitutoyo .0005" test indicator I was only able to detect what I think is about .0001" maybe .00015" TIR. This is indicating on the outside taper where the chuck registers. If you want I can check the inside taper too but I suspect it will be the same.


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## PEU

Mirage_Man said:


> I was only able to detect what I think is about .0001" maybe .00015" TIR



Bummer, how imprecise is your lathe, how much you paid for it??? 
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.


:nana: 

Amazing! and this was as shipped, congrats! :thumbsup:


Pablo


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## CNC Dan

Mirage_Man said:


> Oh and I took off the cheap 3-jaw that came with it and checked the spindle run-out. With my Mitutoyo .0005" test indicator I was only able to detect what I think is about .0001" maybe .00015" TIR. This is indicating on the outside taper where the chuck registers. If you want I can check the inside taper too but I suspect it will be the same.



Try warming up the spindle bearings, then remeasure. Should get better.
Start at 250 RPM for 20min, then go up to 500 RPM for 20min, and them 1000 RPM for another 20min. Check for overheating before increasing speed. Oh, and make sure the bearings have the proper oil if they arn't sealed bearings.

Dan


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## Mirage_Man

OK, a little more progress. I managed to get the DRO display mounted, however I'm waiting on a ball joint type elbow so I can set the display at the exactly angle I want it. I am currently working on making some riser blocks so I can get this thing up to a more comfortable height (I'm 6'5" ). They are 5" diameter steel (120lbs. worth!). The top will get a divot to match the set bolts on the lathe. The bottom will have a counter-bore so the load will be more towards the O.D. . Once I get the risers done and under the lathe I can get it leveled. mount my 6-jaw and really get to work.


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## cmacclel

Cool! Nice to see some chips 

I hate turning Steel 

Mac


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## Anglepoise

Mirage_Man said:


> . I am currently working on making some riser blocks so I can get this thing up to a more comfortable height (I'm 6'5" ).



That's a good idea. Keep us posted as to how it works. My lathe is a little low but nothing annoys me more than the so called 'standard' for wash basins.
Some days a feel mine should be at least a foot higher.


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## Mirage_Man

OK, I finally finished the riser blocks and got the machine leveled. The DRO mounting bracket came in and it's on too. Now I'm ready to true up the 6-Jaw mounting plate so I can get the chuck on.  

Here's a few pics for ya... As a note the small level was used just as a "to get close" level. All directions were leveled with the precision level. I had to use 123 blocks on the flats of the ways because the v-ways are not the same size. This is the only way I could come up with to get it dialed in. Granted it's not likely the ideal but for my purposes should be more than adequate. 

As for the risers... Getting the machine up high enough to get the blocks under it was quite a challenge by myself. As you can see I used 2x6's and crow bar. I would lift one end up, slide a board underneath, set it down and do the same to the other end. It took awhile going back and forth but I managed. I made a divot in the top of the blocks for the jack screws to center in. I turned a counter bore in the bottoms of the risers so the weight is distributed to the outer edges of the blocks. This also helps if the ground is not completely flat.


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## precisionworks

I raised my 10K South Bend in a similar fashion (see above) and the mill too. It really helps eliminate lower back strain.



> I had to use 123 blocks on the flats of the ways because the v-ways are not the same size.


That's perfectly acceptable & often done -- most 1-2-3 sets are matched within .0001, but it is a good idea to check them with a mic.



> I turned a counter bore in the bottoms of the risers so the weight is distributed to the outer edges of the blocks.


The only other thing you might consider is to put hard rubber pads under the risers, as they help to stick the machine in place, especially if turning an off center part. Barrymount neoprene pads work well, and don't disturb your level setting once they take a compression set.


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## choppers

:twothumbs
looks great!!


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## wquiles

Mirage_Man said:


> OK, I finally finished the riser blocks and got the machine leveled. The DRO mounting bracket came in and it's on too. Now I'm ready to true up the 6-Jaw mounting plate so I can get the chuck on.
> 
> Here's a few pics for ya... As a note the small level was used just as a "to get close" level. All directions were leveled with the precision level. I had to use 123 blocks on the flats of the ways because the v-ways are not the same size. This is the only way I could come up with to get it dialed in. Granted it's not likely the ideal but for my purposes should be more than adequate.
> 
> As for the risers... Getting the machine up high enough to get the blocks under it was quite a challenge by myself. As you can see I used 2x6's and crow bar. I would lift one end up, slide a board underneath, set it down and do the same to the other end. It took awhile going back and forth but I managed. I made a divot in the top of the blocks for the jack screws to center in. I turned a counter bore in the bottoms of the risers so the weight is distributed to the outer edges of the blocks. This also helps if the ground is not completely flat.



Dude - that is so awesome :naughty:

Will
(jealous in TX!)


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## Torque1st

An engine hoist is good for lifting things like that.

Next time, -chip partay!


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