# Olight S20 Baton (XM-L, 1x18650, 2xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + more!



## selfbuilt (Dec 19, 2012)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *











The S20 is the latest addition to the Olight Baton series of flashlights (a series that look like, well, batons). The S20 is a model up from the S10, taking 1x18650 or 2xCR123A. For a comparison to the other Baton lights, see my S10, S35/S65 and S80 reviews.

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* (note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


LED: CREE XM-L
Runs on: 2 x CR123A or 1 x 18650 battery (batteries not included)
Working voltage: 2.5~6V
Output (ANSI)/Runtime: High: 470 Lumens/2.25 Hours, Medium: 100 Lumens/9 Hours, Low: 5 Lumens/120 Hours, Moonlight: 0.5 Lumens/1500 Hours
Max beam distance: 328 ft (100 m)
Moonlight mode and High outputs can be accessed directly when the flashlight is off
Both fixed frequency and Frequency conversion strobe modes
Olight patented lock-out function
Strong removable magnet at the end of tail for secure attachment to ferrous surfaces
Removable pocket clip
Stainless steel head ring
Low voltage indication: side switch will glow red when power is low
IPX-8 water resistance
Impact resistant to 2 m (about 6.5")
Dimensions: Length: 4.17" (106 mm), Diameter: 0.9" (23 mm)
Weight (w/o Battery): 1.83 oz (52g)
MSRP: ~$55
As with many of my other Baton-series reviews, my sample was an engineering sample without final retail packaging. However, I imagine it would look similar to the Olight S10 (which included a simple lanyard strap, extra o-rings, split ring, and manual). The S20 comes with a removable pocket clip, similar in design to the S10.













From left to right: AW Protected 18650, Olight S20, Foursevens Quark Q123-2, Eagletac D25CL2, Nitecore EC2, Zebralight SC600, Sunwayman C20C.

All dimensions are given with no batteries installed:

*Olight S20*: Weight: 51.8g, Length: 105.4mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Eagletac D25LC2*: Weight: 50.0g, Length: 116.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.5mm
*4Sevens Quark Q123-2 X* (Regular tailcap): Weight: 44.6g, Length: 112.7mm, Width (bezel) 22.0mm
*Jetbeam PC20*: Weight: 60.0g, Length: 127.5mm, Width (bezel): 22.6mm
*Lumintop ED20*: Weight 84.4g, Length 121.6mm, Width (bezel) 25.2mm
*Spark SL6*: Weight 77.8g, Length: 125.5mm, Width (bezel) 30.9mm
*Sunwayman C20C*: Weight 57.6g, Length: 104.8mm. Width (bezel): 25.6mm
*Thrunite TN12*: Weight: 64.0g, Length: 126.9mm, Width (bezel): 24.1mm
*Zebralight SC600*: Weight 87.2g, Length: 107.8mm, Width (bezel) 29.7mm


















As you can see above, my sample was an engineering sample, but the shipping version should look similar (except for the tailcap label). 

As with the S10, the S20 is quite small for its class. Overall build is similar to the S10, and features black anodizing (matte finish), with bright white labels. Although still without typical knurling, the S20 shares the same raised checkered pattern as on the S10. With the pocket clip attached, I'd say grip is reasonably good.

The pocket clip is comparable to the S10, although a bit longer now. It similarly seems to hold onto the light fairly securely. I personally like it, as you can clip it on you in either orientation (i.e., bezel-up or bezel-down carry), although it might be rough on clothing given how tightly it fits.

The S20 comes with plastic sleeve for use with 2xCR123A, to prevent battery rattle. You can take this out for use with 1x18650.

One other thing is new - there is now a spring in the head. You can safely use flat-top high-capacity 18650 cells. :thumbsup: 

Like the other Batons, the S20 uses square-cut screw threads (anodized for tail lock-out, like the S10). 

Light can tailstand, and there is a split-ring/lanyard attachment hole on the side of the tail cap as before. The tailcap in fact seems identical to the S10, with the same removable strong magnet (i.e., firm enough for the light to stand horizontally off any vertical metal surface). I previously prepared a video of the S10, showing you how to swap out the magnet in the tailcap: 



As with the S10, I find the tailcap rattles slightly in use. This disappears if you swap the magnet out, as the bundled o-ring is thicker than the magnet (at least on my shipping S10 sample), dampening any movement. If you want to keep the magnet installed, I'm sure you could fully dampen the rattle with a thinner o-ring inserted under spring. 

As before, the light uses an electronic switch, located near the head. However, the user interface has been updated from the S10 (see discussion below). Also, the low-voltage warning LED under the switch is back (i.e., as with the S35/65/80, but missing from the S10). 










On the S20, the switch will glow red as the battery nears exhaustion. 

As before, the light has a flat stainless steel bezel ring with a red o-ring, and a textured (orange peel) reflector. Again, the head looks visually the same as the S10, although I would expect somewhat higher max output here (based on the specs).










I'll discuss tint later in this review. The reflector isn't very deep, so you should expect a wide spill beam. Emitter was well centered on my sample. 






Something I noticed on the S10 ( but seems a bit more pronounced on my S20, likely due to the greater output), is that there is a purple tint to the edge of the periphery of the spillbeam. This may have something to do with the red o-ring and anti-glare coating on the lens. :shrug:

*User Interface*

Like the other Baton lights, the S20 uses an electronic switch for on/off and mode control. As before, a quick press and release turns the light on. 

Mode switching is controlled by holding down the electronic switch. The light will cycle between Lo – Med – Hi, in repeating sequence. This is similar to the early Baton lights, but differs from the S10, which stepped down after stepping up in outputs (i.e., Lo – Med – Hi – Med, in repeating sequence). 

As before, simply release the switch to select your desired mode. The light has mode memory – if you turn it off/on, the light returns to your previous level.

The S20 also features the ultra-low "Moonlight" level, as the S10 did. You access this mode directly from off by a sustained press of the switch. This is an excellent adaptation, as you can always turn the light on in the lowest possible mode if you want (i.e., no matter where you memorized it before). Mode cycling and memory works as before, once on.

There is still a "hidden" strobe mode, accessed by double-clicking the switch when on. Double-click again to return to constant on.

The S20 also restores the typical Olight "soft lock-out" (which was removed from the S10). If you hold the switch down from On, after three cycles through the output modes, the S20 turns itself off. It cannot be turned back on until you rapidly press the switch three times. 

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my new video overview:



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

*PWM*

There is no sign of PWM that I can see, at any output level – I presume the light is current-controlled, as claimed.  






Strobe is a standard "tactical" high frequency strobe, measured at 9.8 Hz. 

*Standby Drain*

As the switch is an electronic one, a standby current drain is always present when a battery is installed. 

I measured this standby drain at 38uA for 2xCR123A, and 25uA on 1x18650. Although a bit higher than my S10, that still means for standard 1400mAh CR123A, you could expect over 4 years and 2 months before the batteries would be drained. For a 2600mAh 18650, that would translate into over 11 years and 10 month before a battery would be fully drained. Hardly a concern – although I do recommend you lock out the switch at the tailcap (or soft-lock out electronically) to prevent accidental activation.

*Beamshots:*

And now, the white-wall beamshots.  All lights are on Max output on 1x AW 18650 protected. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 





























































Beam pattern is as you would expect for a XM-L light with this size textured reflector – a fairly big hotspot and decent sized spillbeam. Scroll down for full output details in my tables.

One potential issue – my S20 is rather green-tinted for a Cool White emitter, especially on the lower output levels. Note that there is always considerable variability in potential tints, as most manufacturers do not purchase specific tint bins from Cree. But it does seem like this relatively greenish tint is a common occurrence on these S10/S20 models. 

Note also that it is to be expected that there would be some relatively "warm" tint-shifting on the lower levels (i.e., this is a common feature of current-controlled lights). In this case, I suspect this is accentuating the slightly greenish tint of many of these emitters. :shrug:

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).











The S20 has a balanced overall output pattern, not very throwy (as expected). Output is bit higher on max than the S10, but level spacing is otherwise not that different. Here is a summary table showing what my ANSI FL-1 lumen estimates are for the S20:






As with my Olight S10, my estimated output levels are not that far off the published specs – except on Hi, where I find higher initial output. Here's the S10 for you to compare:






*Output/Runtime Comparison:*















The S20 has a similar distinctive step-down pattern as the S10: On Hi, after 5 mins, the light steps down to a slightly lower level – but gradually, over a period of ~4 mins. This differs from most lights that have an abrupt step. As a result, you are not likely to be able to notice the gradual dimming here.

Efficiency seems excellent on the S20, on both primary CR123A2 and 18650 Li-ion. 

*Potential Issues*

Baton lights all use an electronic switch, and therefore require a small stand-by current when fully connected. The standby drain on S20 low enough (25~38 uA) as to be practically negligible (i.e., would take several years to fully drain a battery). However, you can "soft" lock out the switch electronically (which should lower the current), and you can always physically lock out the S20 at the tailcap. 

All my S10 and S20 samples to date have had a noticeably green tint overall, especially so at the lower output levels. It is hard to draw any conclusions from my limited samples, but it is common for current-controlled lights to tint-shift warmer at lower drive levels (thus accentuating yellow-green tints). But it is hard to predict what you will get, as Olight does not confirm a specific tint bin. There is also a noticeable blue-purple tint around the edge of the spillbeam periphery on all my S10/20 samples.

*Preliminary Observations*

I described S10 as a nice addition to the Baton series of Olight lights - and the S20 continues in that tradition. Although very similar to the S10 overall, Olight has restored some of the earlier features of the other Baton S-series lights that I always liked. :wave:

Let's start with what's the same as the S10 – the overall look and feel. You get a similar good clip (reversible orientation), keychain attachment point, and reasonable grip (all of which were improvements over the older Baton lights). The magnetic tailcap is identical between the S10 and S20 – and like the later-model S10s, the magnet can be swapped out if you prefer. 

The user interface of the S20 takes the best new feature of the S10 – the "hidden" Moonlight mode accessible from Off – and restores the other characteristics of the earlier Baton lights. Specifically, the mode sequence has returned to standard Lo > Med > Hi, and the "soft lock" after three cycles has been restored. They have also brought back the low voltage warning indicator under on the On/Off button (a feature which was missing from the S10). 

The S20 continues the tradition of a relatively negligible low uA standby current. And the performance of the light remains excellent in my testing, in keeping with the good current-control circuitry (i.e. very long relative runtimes). :thumbsup: The S20 maintains the gradual drop-off in the Hi mode step-down brought in on the S10.

Output levels are similar to the S10. Perhaps the only comment here is that some would like a brighter Lo mode, given you have the Moonlight mode available. :shrug: I've handled several samples of S10 and S20 lights now, and all have had a noticeable greenish tint. Of course, tint is highly variable usually, but the apparent consistency here is something to keep in mind if you specifically don't like that end of the cool white spectrum. 

The S20 is a nice example of the ongoing evolution of the Baton series of lights. Certainly a strong contender in the slim and compact group of 1x18650 lights, given the excellent runtimes, straight-forward build and thoughtful interface. :wave:

----

S20 was supplied by Olight for review.


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## Badbeams3 (Dec 19, 2012)

Max mode: 1H 22M...is that right? Maybe I`m following the wrong line? If correct thats not that good. The line I was following shows a bit less than 175 minutes...little less than 3 hours...very good.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 19, 2012)

Badbeams3 said:


> Max mode: 1H 22M...is that right? Maybe I`m following the wrong line? If correct thats not that good. The line I was following shows a bit less than 175 minutes...little less than 3 hours...very good.


Sorry, that was a mistake in the figure legend. I just updated it. The actual runtime to 50% is just under 3 hours, as you observed.


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## RBWNY (Dec 19, 2012)

Nice review as always! I'm jelous though (as a proud owner of the S10) that the S20 returns the low voltage indicator.


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## awes (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks for the review!
I also own S10 and I'm jealous, too  But it would be a brilliant feature, if the indicator could serve as a beacon (similar to the Nitecore Explorer series). Too bad that the tint is still green, but there may be a titanium version with a neutral emitter...


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## BWX (Dec 20, 2012)

If it wasn't for the greenish tint, and if they drove the emitter a little harder on high or gave it a "turbo" mode, I'd like it a lot more.


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## iron potato (Dec 20, 2012)

Thank you for the review, awesome as always.

I also own S10, but the greenish tint were not so great, ended I swapped for a T6 3C, now its nicer & love it.

I not really concern about the indicator on the S10 thou, cheers !


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## MattSPL (Dec 20, 2012)

Nice review, thanks 

Does anybody know if an S20 pill will fit in an S10?

Cheers
Matt


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## NorthernStar (Dec 21, 2012)

Outstanding review! :thumbsup:

My S20 is a standard production sample, and it does not have the pronounced blue-purple tint around the edge of the spillbeam like the one you describe. In fact i´ve never thought of it before untill i read this and compared it to mine. However your observation about the greenish tint on the low settings is absolutely right. On 0,5 lumens mode and at 5 lumens mode my S20 is realy greenish,but on the other two higher modes it has a perfectly white beam without any green.

I know that the manufacturer does not recommend using it, but do you think that one can use RCR123 batteries in S20 without being harmful for the flashlight?


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## selfbuilt (Dec 22, 2012)

NorthernStar said:


> I know that the manufacturer does not recommend using it, but do you think that one can use RCR123 batteries in S20 without being harmful for the flashlight?


I wouldn't recommend trying it in this case - in the preliminary specs Olight sent me, they list the voltage range as 2.5~6V. You could thus potentially blow the circuit with 2xRCR (i.e. >8.4V fully charged).

In 1x18650 lights that list the voltage range as up to 8.4V, you are probably safe giving it a try (even if not "recommended"). But it this case, it seems like it is actually not supported by the circuit.


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## Patriot (Dec 25, 2012)

BWX said:


> If it wasn't for the greenish tint, and if they drove the emitter a little harder on high or gave it a "turbo" mode, I'd like it a lot more.



I feel similarly. The size of the light is very appealing it just trails in output behind the other top performers.


Thanks so much for this review Selfbuilt. I'll never post one of your threads without acknowledging your the hard work and time you put into these. Thank you!


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## lightliker (Feb 5, 2013)

Great review Selfbuilt, I really like your analytical approach of your technical reviewsand looking how nice you do your math, respect! :twothumbs
Reading your review about the S20 is the main reason I passed the S10 that was available at a very nice price in my village and ordered a S20 via zaklamp.nu. Very nice site and VERY quick delivery!
Tonight I received my S20 and the size is really nice! The built quality like the bug brother SR-90 is really nice.
The amount of light is also really enough to light up the complete area where you are walking. Compared to the ultrafire P7 both do about the same where the S20 is twice as compact!, talking about LED revolution 
The green tint at the 2 lowest modes is really present, at the 100 Lumen setting acceptable and at the highest level totally absent.
Imagine having a shipbreak somewhere and being on an island with a box of CR123 batteries and this baby.
0,5 lumen with to the dark adapted eyes at such a long runtime?, GREAT!! (Tom Hanks in the movie Cast Away would have been pleased with this baby )

Two minus points: a) I didn't receive a double CR123 holder wich is nice when using this batteries in case of an empty 18650 an b) My Eden 69mm long 18650 fits barely, Now I have to get a panasonic unprotected 18650, how do I explaint THAT to my wife......

One question comes up reading your reviews of all those flashlights: let they keep you all these lights??


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## Bumble (Feb 9, 2013)

does an eagletac 3400 18650 fit in this ok ?


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## holylight (Feb 11, 2013)

lightliker said:


> Great review Selfbuilt, I really like your analytical approach of your technical reviewsand looking how nice you do your math, respect! :twothumbs
> Reading your review about the S20 is the main reason I passed the S10 that was available at a very nice price in my village and ordered a S20 via zaklamp.nu. Very nice site and VERY quick delivery!
> Tonight I received my S20 and the size is really nice! The built quality like the bug brother SR-90 is really nice.
> The amount of light is also really enough to light up the complete area where you are walking. Compared to the ultrafire P7 both do about the same where the S20 is twice as compact!, talking about LED revolution
> ...



Selfbuilt I also interested to know do they let keep the sample lights...... Lol


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## holylight (Feb 13, 2013)

Bumble said:


> does an eagletac 3400 18650 fit in this ok ?



can can!! np because i using panasonic 3400 protected and is 1 of the longest and can be use ....

http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650Summary UK.html


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## holylight (Feb 16, 2013)

good review as usual. tyvm


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## holylight (Feb 16, 2013)

selfbuild "Output levels are similar to the S10. Perhaps the only comment here is that some would like a brighter Lo mode, given you have the Moonlight mode available. I've handled several samples of S10 and S20 lights now, and all have had a noticeable greenish tint. Of course, tint is highly variable usually, but the apparent consistency here is something to keep in mind if you specifically don't like that end of the cool white spectrum. "

anyone got a explanation for the green tint? many say is due to low quality cree led! is it true? but I like the green lol


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## selfbuilt (Feb 18, 2013)

holylight said:


> anyone got a explanation for the green tint? many say is due to low quality cree led! is it true? but I like the green lol


No, it is not a "quality" issue. All LED manufacturers would love to produce only the most premium (generally agreed upon) "white" tints, for a given color temperature. But it a feature of any manufactured process that you can't control all variables and outcomes. As a result, Cree (like all makers) bins theirs LEDs by color temperature, output, and Vf (and sells the "premium" ones for a higher mark-up). The non-premium bins may not even be uniquely idenfitied. Many makers (especially those doing a high volume of sales) have little choice but to buy a wide range of tints. There is nothing wrong with the emitters - they perform according to spec.

For some reason, Olight seems to be getting a large number of relatively greenish cool white XM-L LEDs - but that probably just reflects Cree's manufacturing process and local availability. This greenish tint range is certainly been something that has been noticed for other emitters, from time to time (i.e., XR-E R2s and XP-G S2s come to mind).

In the case, the current-controlled circuitry of the S10/S20 is probably accentuating the issue. It is well known the CC tint-shifts to the warmer-end of the spectrum at lower drive levels.


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## holylight (Feb 18, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> No, it is not a "quality" issue. All LED manufacturers would love to produce only the most premium (generally agreed upon) "white" tints, for a given color temperature. But it a feature of any manufactured process that you can't control all variables and outcomes. As a result, Cree (like all makers) bins theirs LEDs by color temperature, output, and Vf (and sells the "premium" ones for a higher mark-up). The non-premium bins may not even be uniquely idenfitied. Many makers (especially those doing a high volume of sales) have little choice but to buy a wide range of tints. There is nothing wrong with the emitters - they perform according to spec.
> 
> For some reason, Olight seems to be getting a large number of relatively greenish cool white XM-L LEDs - but that probably just reflects Cree's manufacturing process and local availability. This greenish tint range is certainly been something that has been noticed for other emitters, from time to time (i.e., XR-E R2s and XP-G S2s come to mind).
> 
> In the case, the current-controlled circuitry of the S10/S20 is probably accentuating the issue. It is well known the CC tint-shifts to the warmer-end of the spectrum at lower drive levels.



thanks a lot for the answer.


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## hikingman (Mar 4, 2013)

Does the S20 have the same switch "feel" as the S10? I think my arthritic thumb makes it nearly impossible to double click into strobe on my S10 but on all my larger SR Olights it is not a problem. Thankfully, it isn't something I'd need often. Still, I'd like to be able to do it.

Dave


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## selfbuilt (Mar 4, 2013)

hikingman said:


> Does the S20 have the same switch "feel" as the S10? I think my arthritic thumb makes it nearly impossible to double click into strobe on my S10 but on all my larger SR Olights it is not a problem. Thankfully, it isn't something I'd need often. Still, I'd like to be able to do it.


Switch feel is pretty much the same on the S10 and S20.


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## DenBarrettSAR (Mar 31, 2013)

i never noticed it mentioned here, i discovered my S20 got turned on by accident once in my pocket, by loosening the tail cap a 1/4 turn locked it out, as the anodized threads blocks the continuity quite well. ( works on both my S10 & S20.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Apr 19, 2013)

I can't see the beamshots.

Is it my browser?


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## selfbuilt (Apr 19, 2013)

LEDAdd1ct said:


> I can't see the beamshots.
> Is it my browser?


No, it seems to be an issue with photobucket right now. For the last few minutes, none of the images are loading, and I can't log into their site. Hopefully they will get it resolved soon.


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## Bumble (Apr 19, 2013)

LEDAdd1ct said:


> I can't see the beamshots.
> 
> Is it my browser?



doesnt work for me too ?

EDIT just seen selfbuilts reply


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## Terry M (Apr 22, 2013)

I see the lanyard hole, but does it come with a decent lanyard? I've yet to see one in any review. Thanks.


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## selfbuilt (Apr 22, 2013)

Terry M said:


> I see the lanyard hole, but does it come with a decent lanyard? I've yet to see one in any review. Thanks.


Well, the Olight website shows a very basic wrist lanyard as an included accessory. Looks like a lot of the really basic ones out there.


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## Terry M (Apr 22, 2013)

Thanks! I didn't even notice that. As long as it does have one, that's all I need. Just placed an order, mainly based off your review. Thanks for taking the time to review.


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## haertig (Apr 25, 2013)

Does anyone know of a decent holster for the S20? I prefer something without a velcro flap, as the velcro seldom lasts long for me and then the flap sticks up (e.g., the FourSevens holster for the Quark lights). A topless holster, with elastic for retention, or a holster with a flap using a snap or other non-velcro closure would be preferred. I have taken velcro-flapped holsters and tucked the flap inside the body of the holster alongside the flashlight. That works OK, but the ucovered velcro on the outside of the holster then sticks to and destroys some shirt fabrics. Maybe a good quality velcro in a long strip might work, but the little small dime-sized patches of velcro common on cheap holsters just don't cut it in my experience. Thanks!


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## Terry M (Apr 25, 2013)

Search for Nite Ize Lite holster stretch. I got mine at Home Depot. Not bad.


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## Terry M (Apr 29, 2013)

Selfbuilt-
In any of your reviews on Olights have you ever experienced a faulty switch? Meaning on my S20 I've been noticing the light won't always come on. Today I was going into a very dark room on the job and I pulled out the S20 and she didn't fire. I had to click several times before any light. 
Is this anything you've noticed? 
Thanks!


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## melty (Apr 29, 2013)

Terry M said:


> Selfbuilt-
> In any of your reviews on Olights have you ever experienced a faulty switch? Meaning on my S20 I've been noticing the light won't always come on. Today I was going into a very dark room on the job and I pulled out the S20 and she didn't fire. I had to click several times before any light.
> Is this anything you've noticed?
> Thanks!



Are you sure the light wasn't in lock-out mode?



selfbuilt said:


> The S20 also restores the typical Olight "soft lock-out" (which was removed from the S10). If you hold the switch down from On, after three cycles through the output modes, the S20 turns itself off. It cannot be turned back on until you rapidly press the switch three times.


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## Terry M (Apr 29, 2013)

Honestly? No. I don't think I was but I will pay more attention if I have any problems again. Thanks for pointing that out!


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## selfbuilt (Apr 29, 2013)

Terry M said:


> Selfbuilt-
> In any of your reviews on Olights have you ever experienced a faulty switch? Meaning on my S20 I've been noticing the light won't always come on. Today I was going into a very dark room on the job and I pulled out the S20 and she didn't fire. I had to click several times before any light.
> Is this anything you've noticed?
> Thanks!


Yeah, as melty pointed out, it may just be the lock-out. It can be triggered relatively easily (I've done it myself inadvertently), and you need to do a triple-click to reactivate.

But in answer to your question, no, I haven't had an Olight electronic switch/circuit fail on me yet.


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## Terry M (Apr 29, 2013)

Thanks for the reply! I'll pay more attention.


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## Romanko (Jun 9, 2013)

Can I use unprotected 18650 like in Zebralight SC600?


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## Bumble (Jun 9, 2013)

Romanko said:


> Can I use unprotected 18650 like in Zebralight SC600?



yes you can, it has a spring either end of the battery compartment so flat top cells can be used. the s20 does have a low voltage indicator built into the switch.


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## Romanko (Jun 9, 2013)

So it has like in zebra 2.7v cutoff?


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## Bumble (Jun 9, 2013)

Romanko said:


> So it has like in zebra 2.7v cutoff?



No, the side switch turns red in colour when battery is low.


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## AngryDaddyBird (Aug 4, 2013)

Awesome review!
Do you know if the new version has a green tint too? I am buying one but have a green tint Thrunite And it bothers me alot so want to be sure first.


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## Badbeams3 (Aug 4, 2013)

AngryDaddyBird said:


> Awesome review!
> Do you know if the new version has a green tint too? I am buying one but have a green tint Thrunite And it bothers me alot so want to be sure first.



Think the lottery is in full play with Olight, Zebralight and Surefire. Do you feel lucky...well do you....(Clint Eastwood)


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## Mattiasdd (Aug 5, 2013)

*Olight S20 Baton (XM-L, 1x18650, 2xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO +*

Hello, is the S20-L2 yet available on any website? Cant find it on flashaholics...


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## Badbeams3 (Aug 5, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20 Baton (XM-L, 1x18650, 2xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO +*



Mattiasdd said:


> Hello, is the S20-L2 yet available on any website? Cant find it on flashaholics...



Going Gear got them in on Friday. The 400 lumen S10-l2 also. The few members that have pre-production models in their hands ain`t talking. Makes me think there may be issues with them...


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## Mattiasdd (Aug 5, 2013)

*Olight S20 Baton (XM-L, 1x18650, 2xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO +*

Ok I'll wait for reviews before ordering then! Thanks.


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## billy_gr (Sep 1, 2013)

Just to say a small thanks to the whole cpf and to selfbuilt for this review

I bought the S20 about a month ago (after reading this review) and i am really happy. Moving on to the next


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## Streamer (Sep 17, 2013)

The green tints ruin these lights in my opinion. And Zebras. Sent em all back.

How's the tint on the new S20 xml2's?


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## selfbuilt (Sep 17, 2013)

Streamer said:


> How's the tint on the new S20 xml2's?


Well, as mentioned in the review, they are better now (due seemingly to the reduced anti-glare coating on the lens). But that's all relative - I'd suspect most are still likely to consider the Baton lights to be somewhat green-tinted, on the whole.


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## justanotherguy (Sep 19, 2013)

Hi
I am considering this light...how easy would it be to mod the tailcap? IE remove the magnet and bolt the cap to a surface.......?
Thanks
Tony


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## selfbuilt (Sep 19, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20 Baton (XM-L, 1x18650, 2xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO +*

Tailcap magnet is easy to remove (designed that way). As for your proposed mod, should be straight forward enough.


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## EngrPaul (Sep 19, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20 Baton (XM-L, 1x18650, 2xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO +*

I'm wondering how much it weighs without the magnet.


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## donjoe (Sep 19, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20 Baton (XM-L, 1x18650, 2xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO +*

Any idea how many lumens it's putting out in strobe mode?


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## ragnarok164 (Oct 2, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20 Baton (XM-L, 1x18650, 2xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO +*

Does anyone know what voltage is the battery when they red light comes on?


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## billy_gr (Oct 29, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20 Baton (XM-L, 1x18650, 2xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO +*

I am looking for the same answer... 

I rotated the battery last night (with no red light) and the battery voltage was measured 3.56 V. Which according to my CPF notes... 3.5V = over discharged


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