# YN-20-5



## Mikael T (Jun 16, 2015)

Bought this nice zoom: http://eud.dx.com/product/adjustabl...roof-flashlight-black-1x18650-3xaaa-844123421

But again: how do we get rid of the ridicolous modes and just get off/on full power?

Unfortunately it seems I cannot upload a picture of the print as a newbie, but the print is named as the the title. The almost similar YN-20-3 is shown on post #17 in: 

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...obe-mode-from-led-(circuit-pictures-included) 

The YN-20-5 has one more SMD component in the upper row to the right. Unsoldering it made no change in modes.

I suppose the 3-legged thing is the one controlling the modes, can I just bypass it somehow?

Any advice highly appreciated.

Mikael, Denmark


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## more_vampires (Jun 29, 2015)

Mikael T said:


> But again: how do we get rid of the ridicolous modes and just get off/on full power?



Bypass driver and run direct drive? Simple limit resistor to keep things from getting "splody?" Warning: this voids the crap out of your warranty. 

You'll likely want to fabricate a heavier heatsink from copper and thermally bond it to the light body. Standard single mode blaster mod practice.

This makes the light get super hot, super quick. Might forget anything but burst mode with this kind of build.

Note: This kind of thing is one of my favorite modded light tricks. Make the limit resistor (if used) too large a value and the light will be kind of nerfed and boring. This also results in tapering output (diminishing) with runtime.


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## Spz104 (Dec 4, 2015)

Mikael T said:


> Bought this nice zoom: http://eud.dx.com/product/adjustabl...roof-flashlight-black-1x18650-3xaaa-844123421
> 
> But again: how do we get rid of the ridicolous modes and just get off/on full power?
> 
> ...



I removed the larger component in the top middle (literally ripped it out by accident trying to remove a botched soldering job). So, the one to the left of the one you described. Now the light works perfectly in just one mode, the brightest. 

-Steve


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## Light Bringer (Sep 6, 2016)

My '98 has a YN-20-5 instead of a -3. It's just a bunch of parallelled sm resistors, a 1uF cap to provide hold-up power to detect mode-changes, and the 3-pin control chip (+, -, out). Pretty clever. You can probably "short" the + pin to the out pin of the driver, to go DD but through the parallelled resistors to keep from cooking the poor LatticeBright chip or whatever you got in there. I need to do that, because my driver went mental and now starts in low, so I need to flip through strobe and SOS before getting to high, each time. Annoying. Popping off the cap would likely just disable mode-changes. Again. no good for me if it starts in low. Going to swap that with a 1400mA (4 x 7135) 20mm driver I got from Fasttech. 1-mode, no annoying blinkies. Need to fill in the damned hollow pill first, though.


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## nstream (Feb 25, 2019)

i know this is a rather old thread, but though i would clarify before proceeding to mod my flashlight.

should i do what Spz104 suggested, or what Light Bringer suggested?


Any one tried tthis?


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