# Thrunite Lynx (1x18650, XM-L2) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!



## selfbuilt (Sep 17, 2013)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *















Thrunite has sent me an engineering sample of their newly revised Scorpion model – now known as the Lynx. Note that the model label on my sample hasn't been updated yet.

There have been some significant updates to the user interface (and build of the tailcap) since the original Scorpion V1 and subsequent V2. Let's take a look-see …. 

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


LED: Cree XM-L2
Max output 1000 lumens
Uses logarithmic analog dimming
Total 4 modes, and every mode can be set by the user from Firefly (0.3%) to High (100%), Slow Strobe and Quick Strobe
Default settings: Low(108 Days), Middle(90 Min), High(50 Min), Quickly Strobe(Min).
Operating range: 2.7V-6.0V
Power sources: 1x18650, 2xCR123A _(Reviewer's note: CR123A not fully support, see comments later in review)_
Peak Beam Intensity: 15,600cd
Max Beam: 250m
Smooth Reflector
Reverse Polarity Protection
Material: Aircraft grade Aluminum
Surface Treatment: Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish
Waterproof IPX-8 (1.5M)
Impact Resistance 2M
Designed for Tactical use
Anti-vibration design
Include Accessories: unknown
Optional Filter Accessories: Diffuser, Red, Green, Blue, Yellow
MSRP: unknown
I don't know what final packaging will look like, but it will likely be similar to the Scorpion (i.e., wrist lanyard, spare o-rings, belt holster, manual, warranty card). Note than an optional Turbo head was available for the Scorpion – I can confirm that this still fits and works fine on my Lynx sample.  













From left to right: Eagletac Protected 18650 3400mAh; Thrunite Lynx, Scorpion V2; Foursevens Maelstrom X7; Olight M22; Eagletac G25C2 Mark II; ArmyTek Viking Pro.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Thrunite Lynx*: Weight: 209.9g, Length: 167mm, Width: 35.0 (bezel)
*Thrunite Scorpion V2*: Weight: 171.2g, Length: 168mm, Width: 35.0 (bezel), 37.0mm (tailcap grip ring)
*Thrunite Scorpion V2 with Turbo Head*: Weight: 188.3g, Length: 171mm, Width: 41.0 (bezel), 37.0mm (tailcap grip ring) 
*Skilhunt S2*: Weight: 133.0g, Length 153.0mm, Width: 36.0mm
*Olight M22*: Weight: 148.4g, Length: 144.8mm, Width: 41.2mm (bezel)
*Olight M21*: Weight 119.5g, Length 145.2mm, Width 38.5mm (bezel)
*Eagletac G25C2-II* (stock): Weight 141.0g, Length: 150.6mm, Width: 39.6mm
*Eagletac TX25C2*: Weight 93.6g, Length: 120.4mm, Width (bezel): 31.6mm
*Klarus XT11*: Weight 133.0g, Length: 148.8, Width (bezel) 35.0mm
*Nitecore MH25*: Weight: 145.4g, Length: 160mm, Width (bezel): 40.0m






















The body of the light seems virtually unchanged from the previous Scorpion version in terms of overall build (i.e., just some label changes). But there are some significant changes to the tailcap, including all the weight difference in the light (see below).

Black anodizing (type III = hard anodized) is in matte finish, similar to the other Thunite series. Lettering (which is even more minimal now) is bright and clear. Knurling is fairly aggressive, and there is a generous amount of it over the light and tailcap. Grip is good, especially with the removable clip and built-in tailcap aluminum grip ring.

Square-cut screw threads are anodized for tailcap lock-out, as before. Light cannot tailstand.

There is no longer a spring on the positive contact plate in the head, but it is slightly raised (ensuring contact for flat-top cells). All my recent high capacity cells fit fine in the light

Clip now has Thrunite written on it.

Let's take a closer look at the tailcap …














Although superficially similar, Thrunite has switched to all-metal construction for the Lynx (i.e., gone is the polymer button and control ring). The internal construction seems to have changed as well, as the weight of the tailcap unit is much higher now (i.e., the original Scorpion tailcap weighed 31.0g, and the new Lynx weighs 83.0g – with no change to the rest of the light).

As before, the control ring is directly connected to the substantial spring assembly unit inside the head, and the whole area spins freely when the tailcap is not attached. Clearly patterned on the Night-Ops Gladius originally, it has undergone some significant revisions in this latest Thrunite model. 

For more on how the control ring functions – and how the interface has been updated – please see my User Interface section below.

As before, the light feels quite solid and durable overall – perhaps even moreso now with the all-metal tailcap. 










Reflector is smooth, and reasonable for the size. Coupled with the XM-L2 cool white emitter (which was well centered on my sample), I would expect ok throw with reasonable spill (scroll down for beamshots).

Note that was an optional Turbo head for the Scorpion, which offered more throw (i.e., larger and deeper reflector). From my original Scorpion V2 review:






And on the new Lynx:






As before, the Turbo head doesn’t look out of place on the light (in fact, they could probably have gotten away with an even larger one). There is no knurling or markings on the Turbo head sample I was sent, and I don't know what is currently available.

*User Interface*

As before, control of light is entirely through the tailcap. When fully assembled, you will feel four clear detents on the control ring for the four programmable output modes of the light. Ring feel is somewhat similar to before, despite the all-metal construction now. The metal button is used to control on/off and mode setting. Modes have changed from the earlier Scorpion light. The main difference is that each of the four mode positions is now fully programmable. :thumbsup: 

To activate, press and release the switch to turn the light on (i.e., click) – in whichever mode the control ring is set to. Each mode has memory, and retains the last setting used. Press and release the switch again to turn off.

Note that if you want to change modes by turning the ring, you need to click the switch again. In that sense, the light acts like reverse clicky, and can't change modes without a reset of the main switch. Note that you don't need to turn off/on – a simple single click of the switch resets the light to the new current mode, once you've turned the ring.

To set the memorized level of any mode, press-and-hold the tailswitch from Off. The light will ramp through its output levels, including a continuously-variable ramp. As before, the ramp has a quick reverse function (i.e., it changes direction if you release the switch and re-press from Off). Ramping time is longer now (see graph below), and shows a different pattern. 






To help you make sense of the above, it takes ~9 secs for the Lynx to ramp from the minimum output to max output. The light flashes twice at this level (which you'll see as the dip at time 10 secs above). You then get ~2 secs at this max level below the slow strobe starts (the next recording dip at time 13 secs). The slow strobe lasts for about ~2 secs, and then immediately switches to fast strobe for another ~2 secs. All told, after ~16 secs, the light restarts the ramp from the minimum level. Let go of the switch at any time to set the mode level.

You'll note in the above ramping trace that the Lynx has a much lower minimum output than the Scorpion V2.

Another change is that the switch ring lockout mechanism is gone now, replaced by an electronic lock-out. Previously, you could lock out the Scorpion by partially depressing the switch in the left-most mode of the ring, and turning the control ring further to the left (i.e. counter-clockwise). This was always a bit fussy though (i.e., you could accidental lock the light on sometimes). Then, as now, I prefer to physically lock out the light by simply unscrewing the head a quarter turn (i.e. by holding the base of the tailcap and turning). But Thrunite has also supplied an electronic lockout on the Lynx - press the switch three times rapidly. The light will remain off until you triple-click again.

Note that control circuit in the tailcap works by detecting the presence of magnets in the light. As a result, a strong magnet waved near the tailcap can have the effect of changing modes (i.e., acts as if the ring is turned and the switch clicked). Apparently, the new electronic lock-out is resistant to magnetic activation (confirmed in my testing - I was unable to get it to come one when the triple-cllick lockout was engaged).

*Video*: 

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

*PWM/Strobe*

As with the Scorpion V2, there is no sign of PWM on any level - either the light is current controlled or the frequency is too high to detect. 

There are two strobe modes available now:










The slow strobe is a 6.6Hz and the typical fast "tactical" strobe is 13.5Hz frequency.

*Standby Drain*

There is bound to be a standby-drain when the tailcap is fully connected with a battery installed. However, this is more complicated to measure given the distinctive tailcap design, and I have done so yet.

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences.





























































Beam pattern is similar to other lights in this class and size. Output is definitely high though, compared to other lights. 

Note that the slightly larger Throw head from the previous Scorpion fits and works one Lynx, and increases the throw. Scroll down to my output tables below for more info. 

_*UPDATE OCTOBER 4, 2013:*_

For outdoor beamshots, these are all done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground). I think this batch of outdoor beamshots looks fairly good, due to all the Fall colors in the trees. 










Sorry, my positioning was a little off on the standard head Lynx shots, but this should still give you the general idea. As is clear above, the Lynx has greater overall output than the SRT-7. In terms of throw, the standard Lynx head is slightly more thowy than the SR7 (but that's really due to the greater overall output). The Turbo head option definitely gives the Lynx greater throw. 

Also, please ignore any tint differences above – they are mainly due to the automatic white balance setting on the camera.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).






As you will see above, and consistent with the beamshots, the Lynx is an extremely high output light (at least initially). In fact, it currently has the highest output of any 18650 light in my collection.  FYI, I've included the throw measures with the Scorpion Turbo Head in place.

As always, please note that my estimated lumen scale may not be accurate in this output range. The initial calibration of my lightbox was based on lower output lights (as described in the links above). As such, what you should focus on is the _relative_ output differences between lights, not the absolute estimate. By any measure, my Lynx sample has the distinction of the highest max output on 1x18650 (at the moment). I find Thrunite's 1000 lumen estimate to be believable. :bow:

That said, I did experience a number of cases where the light would not consistently run at the max level on some of my high-capacity 3100/3400mAh 18650 batteries. The reduced max output is indicated by the "*" in the table below. 






To be clear - there was NO issue in reaching the higher max output on any of my AW protected 2200mAh cells, any of my protected 2600 mAh cells (based on the Sanyo core), or my AW unprotected IMR 18650 cells. But my higher capacity 3100mAh and 3400mAh cells (all based on the Panasonic cores, and under the Xtar, 4GREER, Tactical Impulse and Eagletac brand labels) were inconsistent in this regard. Sometimes I could activate or ramp to the max level on these cells, other times it would limit me to ~200 lumens less. Oddly, the ramp would seem to proceed to the max level, but when you tried to select it, it jumped back down by ~200 lumens. It thus seems as if these cells could not consistently provide the power required. :thinking:

In playing around with the light further, I notice that the sub-max issue on these cells seemed to be when the batteries or light were cold (i.e., not recently in use). Hot-off-the-charger, or in a still-hot light that had been running recently, the 3100/3400mAh cells generally produced the higher max output as expected. But if the light and cells were allowed to cool to room temperature first, most of my 3100/3400mAh cells wouldn't reach the max level (even when fully charged). There thus seems to be some voltage/charge characteristic of the 3100/3400mAh cells that interacts with temperature in this particular light. 

I'll have to leave it to those with more experience/understanding of these cells to discuss further.

Given the 2.7-6.0V circuit range, it's an interesting question whether or not 2xCR123A can be used in the light. Please see my runtime results below for a discussion.

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*

To start, here is a comparison of standard ICR chemistry AW protected 2200mAh cells versus IMR chemistry unprotected AW (red label). 






As you can see, the IMR cell has lower capacity overall. In both cases though, there are three step downs that occur before the batteries are exhausted. The last of these drops you to an ultra-low level. This means that you can safely run unprotected cells in the light – this is a very clear signal that it's time to change the batteries.

Let's see how it compares to other lights, on my standard AW protected 2200mAh test bed (note that I had no problem getting max output on these cells).














Runtime is quite good, at all levels. On max, the Lynx is definitely higher output than any of my other lights (at least initially). Runtimes are slightly reduced because of this, but overall efficiency is still very good on max. 

At lower output levels, overall efficiency is excellent on the Lynx, consistent with my top-performing current-controlled XM-L2 lights. 

But of course, one of the differences here is that most lights in this comparison are multi-power (i.e., also support 2xCR123A/RCR). What about the Lynx? From the specs, 2xCR123A is not supported. But since the supported range is close, I thought I'd give it a try.






To explain what you are seeing above, I needed to drain off ~1.5 mins of capacity on my CR123A cells before they would run in the Lynx. If you put fresh CR123A cells into the light, it just flickers/strobes initially. But if I ran off ~1.5 mins of capacity in another high-output light first, the cells would now work normally in the Lynx.

As you can see, overall efficiency of these slightly depleted CR123A cells in the Lynx was quite good. 

I recommended to Thrunite that they see about widening the voltage range of the Lynx to fully support CR123A. In response, I am led to understand that they plan to release a separate multipower version of the Lynx. But the 18650-only version of the Lynx I reviewed here does not support 2xCR123A.

Note however that I previously cautioned against running 2xCR123A on max for extended periods in the Scorpion V2. That light was so heavily driven that it could sometimes trigger the PTC protection circuits on CR123A, see my earlier thread here for a discussion.

*Potential Issues*

The improvements to the tailcap switch/circuit design on the Lynx (i.e., all metal now, fully programmable levels for each mode, lower low on the ramp, etc) resolves many of the previously identified issues with the Scorpion V2 (which was itself a significant upgrade from the V1). Note that the Lynx tailswitch only has constant-on modes now, at least on my sample (i.e., there is no longer a momentary max mode, like on the Scorpion). 

The Lynx sample I was sent only fully supports 1x18650. Thrunite informs me they are working on a multi-power version of the Lynx. But note that I had previously warned against running the similarly highly-driven Scorpion V2 on 2xCR123A/RCR. I had previously experienced PTC engagement of some brands of CR123A in that light (and I would expect the same here). The Lynx really is ideally suited to 1x18650.

The light can't tailstand.

Given the electronic nature of the tailswitch control mechanism, there is bound to be a standby drain when fully connected. I have not measured it, but you can easily disable any drain by physically unscrewing the tailcap a quarter turn.

The presence of strong magnets close to the switch can cause aberrant mode switching, as before. Use the new electronic lock-out feature (or the physical lock-out feature) if you are concerned about accidental activation.

*Preliminary Observations*

The Lynx marks the continued evolution of the Scorpion series from Thrunite. You could therefore reasonably think of it as the "Scorpion V3", given how much of the overall build remains the same. But what have changed are the things that really matter – the control interface, the feature set, and output/performance.

Let's start with the tailcap – responding to user feedback, Thrunite has changed the design to all-metal now (i.e., no polymer button or control ring any more). Personally, this was never an issue for me, but I know others objected. More significantly, the user interface has changed – rather than a pre-set (and frankly rather arbitrary) set of modes, you can now customize each of the four mode states of the ring to anything you want. :thumbsup: 

And the options available to you have increased – the continuously-variable ramp now sports both higher and lower output levels (i.e., a higher max, and lower min). There are also two strobe frequencies available (although I personally would prefer an even slower signaling strobe/beacon). But I understand this light is meant to appeal to the "tactical" crowd. 

Output/runtime performance and efficiency is excellent on 18650 cells. I like the multiple step-down feature as the batteries run out of juice – and I particularly like the final step-down to an ultra-low level. This means you can safely run unprotected cells, as you get plenty of advance warning when it's time to recharge. 

But there is cost to all of this – true multi-power support is not available on the sample I tested (although Thrunite tells me they plan to release a version that fully supports 2xCR123A). But like the Scorpion V2, the Lynx is so heavily driven on max that it would not be a good idea to run max output on 2x battery sources anyway (i.e., you would exceed allowable discharge rates for standard ICR chemistry RCRs, and risk engaging PTC protection features on CR123As). 

This is basically your trade-off – if you want the most maximally-driven light possible, you need to stick to 1x18650 only. :shrug:

All that said, the Lynx is certainly very impressive for output and runtime. It's hard to believe that we have reached an era where single-cell lights can delivery 1000 lumens. oo: To put that in perspective, the original Scorpion V1 (release in early 2011) maxed out at about half that output. With the optional Turbo head installed, the Lynx also provides a crazy amount of throw for the size.

Again, I recommend you pay close attention to the tables and charts – and my comments above – to help determine if the Lynx is right for you. Hope you found the review useful.

----

Lynx provided by Thrunite for this review.


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## Dubois (Sep 17, 2013)

A few people have been waiting a long time for this review - thanks.


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## TEEJ (Sep 17, 2013)

Nice Job!



Would you consider calling this the "Brightest 18650 Light in the World"?

If they could support two 18350 IMR, or even 16340 IMR cells, do you think the light would be bright enough?


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## CamoNinja (Sep 17, 2013)

Awesome Selfbuilt, thankyou. I actually love the Scorpion. Can't wait to get this in the future.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 17, 2013)

Dubois said:


> A few people have been waiting a long time for this review - thanks.


Glad to hear there's some interest in the model.



TEEJ said:


> Would you consider calling this the "Brightest 18650 Light in the World"?


Well, hyperbole is not quite my style.  I am comfortable calling it what it is - the brightest 1x18650 I've tested to date.



> If they could support two 18350 IMR, or even 16340 IMR cells, do you think the light would be bright enough?


That's kind of a funny way to put it ... bright enough for what?  If they were to extend voltage support up to 8.4V (and I have no knowledge of any plans in that regard), it would really be ONLY for the sake of IMR cells. As such, I don't really see the point - ICR 18650 will have much better capacity and runtime, and be safer to boot. The problem with supporting 2xRCR is that people are bound to try and stick regular ICR RCRs in there, which would not be good for the cells. Personally, I'm thinking they are probably better sticking with 1x18650 as the only supported rechargeable option.



CamoNinja said:


> Awesome Selfbuilt, thankyou. I actually love the Scorpion. Can't wait to get this in the future.


Yes, I always found the Scorpion to be an an interesting build. The more customizable user interface here is likely to be welcomed by most (i.e., the Scorpions were never very intuitive).


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## ThruNite (Sep 17, 2013)

We do not suggest customer use the 2 CR123A batteries for this light since it is the current on the batteries is very very ```.


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## bluemax_1 (Sep 18, 2013)

So Thrunite will be adding a momentary mode in the future, i.e. before official release? Does that mean it'll have 5 modes? Or that we'll have to sacrifice 1 of the modes for momentary?

BTW, did they ever manage to implement the recommendation for the 'press and hold' for momentary Maximum regardless of what mode/brightness the light is on?

If the light can have 5 modes (4 programmable + momentary Turbo) and the production model allows use of the Turbo head like your sample did, I'm definitely in. Press and hold to go straight to momentary Turbo from any other mode would be icing on the cake, but not vital.


Max


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## ThruNite (Sep 18, 2013)

I think this is what it will be for the production. 4 modes! no momentary !


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## holylight (Sep 18, 2013)

Thanks for the review.


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## holylight (Sep 18, 2013)

Home run. I love thrunite.


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## Moonshadow (Sep 18, 2013)

Thanks for the great review, SB. 



> I think this is what it will be for the production. 4 modes! no momentary !



 Disappointing, but at least this saves me some money - I'll be sticking with the Scorpion if there's no momentary on the new model.


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## nitehead (Sep 18, 2013)

ThruNite said:


> no momentary !



Ah, ok. 

But it is still claimed to be "designed for tactical use", isn´t it? 

Any real life leo here who has ever used a duty light without momentary on function?

Sorry, no offense intended. I´m just very disappointed.


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## Haffner (Sep 18, 2013)

Can’t wait to see a comparison with the Fenix PD 35…


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## TEEJ (Sep 18, 2013)

IN CPFM, they announced that THIS light is the brightest 18650 flashlight in the world, which seems a bit ambitious at best, and a bit misleading at worst.

I agree that if a light doesn't have a momentary on/off, its not a tactical UI, as there's really no "Pop and Move" capability, which is a fairly large part of tactical use. There should be at LEAST a half press type momentary on to qualify.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 18, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> BTW, did they ever manage to implement the recommendation for the 'press and hold' for momentary Maximum regardless of what mode/brightness the light is on?


No, "press and hold" is the same as a single click (i.e., turns off if you are in the same mode, or advances you to the new mode if you've turned the ring in the interim).



ThruNite said:


> I think this is what it will be for the production. 4 modes! no momentary !


Thanks for participating here in the thread David, and for the confirmation. I've removed the speculation about momentary from the review.



TEEJ said:


> IN CPFM, they announced that THIS light is the brightest 18650 flashlight in the world, which seems a bit ambitious at best, and a bit misleading at worst.


Ah, I see. Well, it is currently the brightest 1x18650 in my collection.  But as always, that is a moving target.


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## ThruNite (Sep 18, 2013)

It is very good to add momentary on function in it .just replace one of the four modes. and for lock out.we use electronic lock out. then they magnetic will not active it !


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## tallboybass (Sep 19, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Ah, I see. Well, it is currently the brightest 1x18650 in my collection.  But as always, that is a moving target.


If you'd tested the cool white version of the TX25C2 I wonder if that would still be true?


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## markeday (Sep 20, 2013)

Great review Self built,like usual.I wanted this light since I heard about it.I bought the original black hawk night ops when it first come out,big bucks.So why did they remove the head spring and if it has color filters are they screw in or pop on? Thanks again.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 20, 2013)

markeday said:


> .So why did they remove the head spring and if it has color filters are they screw in or pop on? Thanks again.


I don't know why they ditched the head spring, although the post still allows flat top cells. Tension in the light seems good with the new tailcap (I.e., even my shorter IMR cells worked fine). But of course, I don't treat recoil operation.

I haven't seen the filters, so Thrunite would have to answer that question.


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## Rat6P (Sep 20, 2013)

I much prefer the UI arrangement of the Scorpion.
This sounds like there is no true momentary function now. (if i understood the mode arrangement correctly)


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## TEEJ (Sep 20, 2013)

ThruNite said:


> It is very good to add momentary on function in it .just replace one of the four modes. and for lock out.we use electronic lock out. then they magnetic will not active it !




It looks like thrunite could add the momentary though, which would help make it better for the tactical market....and as they use one of the other modes to get it...that works too, as most tactical users want fewer modes anyway.


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## Joe Talmadge (Sep 21, 2013)

TEEJ said:


> I agree that if a light doesn't have a momentary on/off, its not a tactical UI, as there's really no "Pop and Move" capability, which is a fairly large part of tactical use. There should be at LEAST a half press type momentary on to qualify.



Without momentary, it is not a tactical light, and "Designed for tactical use" should not be part of the advertising. "Designed badly for tactical use", maybe. Not trying to be needlessly provocative, but come on, with no momentary it's not even close man.

With momentary, the entire package looks awesome. With momentary, being able to pre-set the light to the level I want, being able to use it in one mode, change the setting to another and then pop the button when needed ... all of this looks great.


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## teacher (Sep 21, 2013)

Thanks for yet another informative review. :thumbsup:


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## Norm (Sep 21, 2013)

Some off topic posts removed, holylight your reposting of PMs is against forum rules, what is talked about in private should stay private further instances will see you taking some time off, remember the Vegas rule. - Norm


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## holylight (Sep 22, 2013)

Ok Norm. I got it.


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## y260 (Sep 28, 2013)

I think a switch can make or break a flashlight. The Nitecore SRT5, which is strikingly similar to the Scorpion (or Lynx) was a nearly perfect EDC light but it's switch was terribly flawed in my opinion. Its switch was spongy and took 1/2 a second to turn on the light. And now here with this new Lynx, it's a reverse-clicky? :thinking:


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## 430Scuderia (Oct 1, 2013)

Hi SB,

Great review as always and thanks for taking the time to provide it to all who are interested. 

Any chance of outdoor beam shots comparing Thrunite Lynx vs. the Nitecore SRT7?

Again thanks for all your hard work!


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## selfbuilt (Oct 2, 2013)

430Scuderia said:


> Any chance of outdoor beam shots comparing Thrunite Lynx vs. the Nitecore SRT7?


Hmmm, I'll consider it. I've been meaning to head out for some pics, but haven't had time lately.

By the way, I see it wasn't clear how I described the interface above - the switch is not a reverse clicky on the Lynx. It acts like a reverse clicky in the sense that you have to re-press it when switching modes, and there is no momentary on (at least as currently programmed - Thrunite is apparently working on that for the final release). The switch is not like a forward clicky, in that the Lynx only comes on once you press all the way. But you don't need to release for activation (i.e., constant-on happens with the full press). So it should be feasible for Thrunite to reprogram for momentary modes if they want.

That's the thing with electronic switches - they are neither forward clickies nor reverse clickies. Better to say they can be programmed for constant-on or momentary-on with a full press - but you will always need a full press to activate (unless the switch has multiple depth points, like on some of the Nitecore lights).


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## bluemax_1 (Oct 2, 2013)

Here's an interesting question that just occurred to me:
The switch is in the tail, as is the selector. Is the driver in the head? You mentioned that the Scorpion's Turbo head DOES fit just fine on the Lynx, is the tailcap/tailswitch similarly swappable? If so, are the modes the same as the original light (i.e. Scorpion modes for a Scorpion with Lynx tailswitch?).


Max

P.S. as for the final iteration, 3 user programmable modes + momentary would be great. Although I like the idea of an accessible firefly, for Tactical and LEO type usage, a constant High, a constant Low/Med, a Tactical strobe and a momentary High are the most important to have available. If I really need a firefly mode, I can reprogram the Low/Med for that specific usage for that limited time.

4 user programmable modes + momentary would be perfect, but apparently, perfect is simply not allowed in the flashlight world.


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## selfbuilt (Oct 2, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> The switch is in the tail, as is the selector. Is the driver in the head? You mentioned that the Scorpion's Turbo head DOES fit just fine on the Lynx, is the tailcap/tailswitch similarly swappable? If so, are the modes the same as the original light (i.e. Scorpion modes for a Scorpion with Lynx tailswitch?).


The Turbohead option is just a reflector/bezel - it doesn't swap out the emitter or whatever circuit is in the head. So it has no effect on the functioning of the light.

In terms of swapping the tailcaps between the lynx and Scorpion, I haven't tried that. It could work, or it could "misfire" on you - depends if they have changed anything significant in how the tailcap control circuit interfaces with the head. That's not something I have the ability to interrogate, and wouldn't want to experiment without the ok from Thrunite.


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## 430Scuderia (Oct 2, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Hmmm, I'll consider it. I've been meaning to head out for some pics, but haven't had time lately.
> 
> By the way, I see it wasn't clear how I described the interface above - the switch is not a reverse clicky on the Lynx. It acts like a reverse clicky in the sense that you have to re-press it when switching modes, and there is no momentary on (at least as currently programmed - Thrunite is apparently working on that for the final release). The switch is not like a forward clicky, in that the Lynx only comes on once you press all the way. But you don't need to release for activation (i.e., constant-on happens with the full press). So it should be feasible for Thrunite to reprogram for momentary modes if they want.
> 
> That's the thing with electronic switches - they are neither forward clickies nor reverse clickies. Better to say they can be programmed for constant-on or momentary-on with a full press - but you will always need a full press to activate (unless the switch has multiple depth points, like on some of the Nitecore lights).



Thanks SB, that is exactly the clarification I was looking for.:rock:


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## selfbuilt (Oct 4, 2013)

430Scuderia said:


> Any chance of outdoor beam shots comparing Thrunite Lynx vs. the Nitecore SRT7?


And here you go:

For outdoor beamshots, these are all done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground). I think this batch of outdoor beamshots looks fairly good, due to all the Fall colors in the trees. 











Sorry, my positioning was a little off on the standard head Lynx shots, but this should still give you the general idea. As is clear above, the Lynx has greater overall output than the SRT-7. In terms of throw, the standard Lynx head is slightly more thowy than the SR7 (but that's really due to the greater overall output). The Turbo head option definitely gives the Lynx greater throw. 

Also, please ignore any tint differences above – they are mainly due to the automatic white balance setting on the camera.


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## bluemax_1 (Oct 4, 2013)

As with the Scorpion, I definitely prefer the Turbo beam profile. It retains the same beam width as the regular head, but increases the throw. Actually, when I tested the Scorpion, it appeared to me on the unit I was testing, that the Turbo head's beam had a much more intense hotspot AND was marginally wider than the Standard head. Looking at the gifs above, it appears this holds true for the Lynx as well.


Max


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## 430Scuderia (Oct 5, 2013)

Thanks SB for taking the time to create and post the beamshots. It is greatly appreciated.


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## chouster (Oct 24, 2013)

Thanks selfbuilt for the review, great work as always. I like nearly everything about this light. The name, the new tailcap, the new UI, just hope there will be a neutral or even warm white version available, love the warmish tints. 

Personally I don't need a momentary function. The disadvantage of this function in the scorpion was the fact, that whenever you wanted to switch to max output immediately, you had to go through a short time of darkness afterwards. Now with the lynx, that problem is gone, even if Thrunite decides to give it a momentary function, you still have three progammable modes, you can switch between without turning the light off. Either way, what we won't have is momentary strobe...


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## 430Scuderia (Oct 24, 2013)

^ They did add the momentary max on switch position 1. You can see the description on the Thrunite web site. Also their USA Thrunite-store web site shows it retailing for $129.00. It includes their 18650 battery and screw on diffuser along with the usual accessories.


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## rickypanecatyl (Oct 27, 2013)

Could you comment on the pressure required to turn the tail switch on?

I really loved the scorpion but as you mentioned found the old level not intuitive; I always set my variable to the lowest setting so going clockwise I had Medium (40ish lumens), firefly, strobe, max. I'm excited to have the choice to put those levels in at least what I see as a more logical order.
One of my complaints with the old light though was how easily it was to accidently turn on the flashlight. So often it turned on by itself and when I went to use it the battery was dead. Or, if I was smarter, the battery wasn't dead because I had unswrewed the tailcap but that makes it not ready to go like I like it to be.
So the question is, is the newer cap easier to accidently activate?

Also is there anything between the low .1ish firefly and 40ish lumens of the lowest preset? I was kind of hoping to have .1/10/300/1000 - possible?


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## selfbuilt (Oct 27, 2013)

Although the switch feel is slightly difference (i.e., all metal now), the overall resistance and traverse is about the same. So if you found accidental activation an issue before, you likely will again (unless you physically lock out the light, as you mentioned).

But as for the output levels, you have full control from the <0.1 minimum output through to the max on the Lynx. This is different from the Scorpion, where the ramp didn't go all the way down to the firefly mode. With the Lynx, you could easily customize it as you propose, as all levels in-between are available.


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## rickypanecatyl (Oct 28, 2013)

Thanks for the response Self built - I really appreciate it! I so loved the UI on the scorpion - being able to switch modes easily with one hand; select which mode to turn the light on with just one hand etc. I've always thought it had to _*the potential*_ to be my all time favorite _XL EDC_, "do it all" light. I love this light! 
There were 7 changes I would have made to the scorpion to make it the ultimate light for me and from your review it looks like they addressed 4 of those 7 items.

1.) Beef up the tail switch
2.) Enable user to program logical sequence of modes from the tail cap.
3.) Have some low choices between .1 lumens and 40 lumens.
4.) Upgrade to XML2

5.) Tougher glass in the turbo-head to prevent breakage. (3 of mine broke and I know there were many others with broken lens - they wanted 1/2 the price of an identical SUP beam light to replace it!)
6.) A switch that didn't go get turned on so easily. A desirable "tactical" trait I'm sure many non tactical users can appreciate is having a light that is_ ready to go_ in an instant. It's in your pocket/on your belt, suddenly you hear a noise over _there_, you want to be able to pull out your light and immediately be able to light that area up. My experience with 2 scorpions and an identical SUP beam is either a.) I've got no battery left as my light accidentally turned on at some point or b.) I wisely unscrewed the tail cap first _*but *_that is usually 2 extra steps for me as I forgot I did that and why my light doesn't work. I've found it turns on much easier than it turns off and so when getting jostled around odds are that it has been turned on but not turned off.
7.) And of course having momentary. 6 and 7 could go together - I don't know if it is possible to make the switch like most all the other 18650 tail cap switch lights - press for momentary in any mode, click for on, bonus points to have a even farther press bring you straight to turbo from any mode.

*Bonus #8 (I don't include it with the others as realistically I'm doubting many other potential customers would desire this than me where as I think many others care about my points 5,6&7.)
Have a thicker rubber sleeve that goes over the notches on the tail cap with identical notches on the outside to make it protude just as far as the tail cap button so that it of course rotates freely with the spinning tailcap but it enables it to tailstand. Similar to the Eagletacs.


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## rickypanecatyl (Oct 28, 2013)

An interesting thought on this light is that if you dedomed it with the turbohead you'd have a light that out threw the very respected Thrunite Catapault when it first came out. It'd probably beat the first 3 versions on both lux and lumens!


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## tubed (Oct 28, 2013)

I was excited to see this light finally go on sale but am disapointed because, as far as I can tell, they're not offering the turbohead option.


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## bluemax_1 (Oct 28, 2013)

rickypanecatyl,

- Apparently, the Lynx will come with position 1 as Momentary Turbo.
- As far as the tailswitch goes, because it's a magnetic switch and not a mechanical switch, there's no way to do a partial press for momentary and full click for constant.
- As for turning on too easily, it depends on the way the light is carried. I'm somewhat disappointed that they removed the lockout position on the tailcap. Although I did occasionally lockout the tailcap with the light On, the solution was to cut a hole in the holster so I could easily notice if the light was on. No worries about drained batteries. When this comes out, I'll probably get the LHU-14-43 holster for it, which has a hole allowing light to come through the holster end.

tubed,
The Scorpion Turbo head is available as an add-on that fits the Lynx. No idea if the Lynx will ever be offered with the Turbo head to avoid the extra expense of buying a separate head.


Max


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## 430Scuderia (Oct 28, 2013)

If one wanted a OEM large head on this style of light, the Supbeam T-10 comes with a 42.8mm head.

Bluemax 1, don't you own the Supbeam T-10 as in this thread? 
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?357984-Recommend-a-Tactical-1x18650-light

Sorry for the thread jack SB


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## bluemax_1 (Oct 28, 2013)

430Scuderia said:


> If one wanted a OEM large head on this style of light, the Supbeam T-10 comes with a 42.8mm head.
> 
> Bluemax 1, don't you own the Supbeam T-10 as in this thread?
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?357984-Recommend-a-Tactical-1x18650-light
> ...


Yes, I bought a T10 to evaluate it. I prefer the Scorpion v2 with Turbo head. This Lynx with the Turbo head will be even better.

The T10 is SO throw focused that it sacrifices too much, for my preferences, to focus on throw. The T10 has a much narrower spillbeam than most similar lights available including the Scorpion Turbo. The hotspot is also smaller than any other 1x18650 light out there.

If you've read my comments on the Tactical Strobe thread, I've mentioned that a narrow hotspot makes it much harder to quickly hit a suspect in the eyes. The narrow spill also means that depending on the range, their hands may not be illuminated when you hit them in the eyes/face. The narrow spillbeam also causes tunnel vision when clearing a building or searching an alley etc.

BTW, the Scorpion heads DO NOT fit the T10 without modification and vice versa. They altered the emitter heights between the lights to ensure that.

For my preferences, the Lynx with Turbo head is a near ideal light. If they could have made it with 5 modes (3 programmable plus momentary Turbo and Strobe) the UI would be perfect.


Max


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## tubed (Oct 28, 2013)

I, too, think this lynx is getting close to perfect. As time goes on, i'm settling down to single 18650 lights as the perfect "universal light" in terms of doing everything. NOW, I just need to find the perfect one - there are so many out there now.
This light ticks a lot of boxes for me: one handed operation, a real low, low, customizable interface, good thrower with some flood, etc. 
My beef with the UI - you have to turn it off to change the level then back on. UGGH. so close.
Right now this light is battling with the Eagletac G2C2 for my next big purchase.


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## bluemax_1 (Oct 28, 2013)

tubed said:


> I, too, think this lynx is getting close to perfect. As time goes on, i'm settling down to single 18650 lights as the perfect "universal light" in terms of doing everything. NOW, I just need to find the perfect one - there are so many out there now.
> This light ticks a lot of boxes for me: one handed operation, a real low, low, customizable interface, good thrower with some flood, etc.
> My beef with the UI - you have to turn it off to change the level then back on. UGGH. so close.
> Right now this light is battling with the Eagletac G2C2 for my next big purchase.


The G25C2-mkII is my current work light.

- if a low low is important to you, the mkII's lowest low is 7 lumens.
- the mkII's operation can be buggy. If you don't clean it regularly, some owners have reported difficulty getting Maximum mode. My experience is the opposite. I have always been able to get Maximum mode. When it malfunctions for me (Tactical Interface), I lose the Low mode (Tactical Interface goes from Maximum ~1000 lumens, Low 100 lumens, Strobe 1, Strobe 2). With the head tight, I still get Maximum. With the head in ANY loosened position, I get Strobe 2.

Since Maximum and Strobe are the most critical modes for me and Low is merely a convenience, I still carry it. It doesn't happen often, but it's something to keep in mind. OTOH, I've never had an issue not getting the mode I want with the Scorpion or T10. I don't like their interfaces though. I don't need firefly on a work light. I need Momentary Maximum, Constant Maximum, Strobe and a low/med.

With the Scorpion/T10, I was forced to choose between a Constant Maximum OR Constant low/medium. Since a constant Maximum took priority, I had no low/med mode, which can be a little inconvenient when trying to not blind yourself at night.


Max


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## 430Scuderia (Oct 29, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> Yes, I bought a T10 to evaluate it. I prefer the Scorpion v2 with Turbo head. This Lynx with the Turbo head will be even better.
> 
> The T10 is SO throw focused that it sacrifices too much, for my preferences, to focus on throw. The T10 has a much narrower spillbeam than most similar lights available including the Scorpion Turbo. The hotspot is also smaller than any other 1x18650 light out there.
> 
> ...



Gotcha. Thanks for the detailed information on the T10. I have never seen a written review on that light and assumed it was similar to the scorpion/lynx with the turbo head. The new lynx is almost perfect but it's obvious Thrunite does not get their input from LEOs otherwise the UI would be exactly as you stated and in the correct mode selection order of what I think should be from left to right: user defined first 3 modes, momentary strobe, momentary max.


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## tubed (Oct 29, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> The G25C2-mkII is my current work light.
> 
> - the mkII's operation can be buggy. If you don't clean it regularly, some owners have reported difficulty getting Maximum mode. My experience is the opposite. I have always been able to get Maximum mode. When it malfunctions for me (Tactical Interface), I lose the Low mode (Tactical Interface goes from Maximum ~1000 lumens, Low 100 lumens, Strobe 1, Strobe 2). With the head tight, I still get Maximum. With the head in ANY loosened position, I get Strobe 2.
> 
> Max



Thanks for that Max,
I don't buy a lot of these lights and nothing's worse than getting one that doesn't work reliably. Last year I got a nitecore MH25 that has turned out to be dud. - mode selection might as well be a roulette wheel (that always seems to land on strobe). Can't stand it. Reliability has now moved up my list as an important quality. Glad to hear your previous Thrunites were ok


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## ThruNite (Oct 30, 2013)

Based on the Scorpion, the Lynx has the following updates:




1. Driver:


We have spent 17 months developing what I believe to be the best driver available - something I am very proud of. The Lynx is current regulated from 3.0v - 6.6v. and will deliver a steady output of more than 1000 ANSI Lumen using either one 18650, or two CR123A cells. It is the first light to deliver such high regulated current with a single 18650 battery.




2: Metal tail cap:


Most of the plastic parts of the tailcap have been replaced with metal for better durability and functionality.




3: Lock Out:


The mechanical lock out of the Scorpion has been replaced in the Lynx with an electronic lock out. To lock out the Lynx, press the tailcap quickly three times. The light will flash and lock out. It is re-activated by another three quick presses of the tailcap. In lock out mode nearby strong magnetic fields will have no effect on the operation of the Lynx.


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## tubed (Oct 30, 2013)

Hey Thrunite,
is there any chance you will offer this light for sale with the turbohead so we don't have to buy two heads?


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## Scourie (Oct 30, 2013)

I think this could be my next purchase,.it ticks all my boxes. Would like to see a output graph on max for the shipping version first though.

Rob.


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## rickypanecatyl (Oct 30, 2013)

The Scorpion Turbo Head fits quite nicely on the T10 SUP Beam body and puts our a floodier beam that I like better. There is a gap between the top of the emitter and bottom of the reflector though. 
(This is an experimental post by the way - I'm trying to attach multiple pictures from Tapatalk.)


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## rickypanecatyl (Oct 30, 2013)

T10 head vs Turbo Head. 

Notice it is much bigger. And notice I failed to attach any pictures!  

Sent from my C5502 using Tapatalk


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## rickypanecatyl (Oct 30, 2013)

Sent from my C5502 using Tapatalk


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## rickypanecatyl (Oct 30, 2013)

This is a SUP Beam with the Scorpion Turbo Head and the original had next to it. 


Sent from my C5502 using Tapatalk


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## rickypanecatyl (Oct 30, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> rickypanecatyl,
> 
> - Apparently, the Lynx will come with position 1 as Momentary Turbo.
> - As far as the tailswitch goes, because it's a magnetic switch and not a mechanical switch, there's no way to do a partial press for momentary and full click for constant.
> ...



Thanks for that clarification Max - I was wondering if it just wasn't possible to to have that kind of switch.

As far as accidental activation I did it many times a day. I really like carrying mine not on a belt but in a "SAP" pocket - it's a small, slit opening cargo style pocket that places the head just below your butt and the handle in the easiest to reach spot and I don't notice it at all when sitting.
I'm hoping that position 1 you mentioned for momentary is turned all the way clockwise. I have this personal hang up of liking my modes to be in sequential order such as low, med, high, turbo as opposed to something like turbo, low, high, medium. Even more unique to me (I realize it's as random as a developing nation chosing which side of the road to drive on - follow England or the US?) I like it to go from lower to higher when turning clockwise.



430Scuderia said:


> If one wanted a OEM large head on this style of light, the Supbeam T-10 comes with a 42.8mm head.



I can confirm the Scorpion Turbohead works real nicely on the SUP Beam, not as much throw but I like the profile better. I can't confirm the reverse as I lost my last of 3 Scorpions. (1 lost, 1 broken, 1 a gift).



bluemax_1 said:


> The G25C2-mkII is my current work light.
> 
> - if a low low is important to you, the mkII's lowest low is 7 lumens.
> - the mkII's operation can be buggy. If you don't clean it regularly, some owners have reported difficulty getting Maximum mode. My experience is the opposite. I have always been able to get Maximum mode. When it malfunctions for me (Tactical Interface), I lose the Low mode (Tactical Interface goes from Maximum ~1000 lumens, Low 100 lumens, Strobe 1, Strobe 2). With the head tight, I still get Maximum. With the head in ANY loosened position, I get Strobe 2.
> ...



+1 here! The Eagletach is the glitchiest, randomest flashlight I own. Seems to be better after a through cleaning but mine is real bad just days later!



tubed said:


> Thanks for that Max,
> I don't buy a lot of these lights and nothing's worse than getting one that doesn't work reliably. Last year I got a nitecore MH25 that has turned out to be dud. - mode selection might as well be a roulette wheel (that always seems to land on strobe). _*Can't stand it. Reliability has now moved up my list as an important quality.*_ Glad to hear your previous Thrunites were ok



So glad to hear other are valuing this extremely unique trait!  Seriously, if all one cared about what the lux, lumens and size numbers our night markets here in Malaysia have everything for under $25. 2 is 1 and 1 is none is not a motto that I want to hear any manufacturer live by that I purchase products from!
On that note I went thru 3 lenses on the original turbohead. The turbohead in the picture also has a cracked lens. One arrived in the mail that way. I'm betting the turbohead will go right on the Lynx but I would like to see them upgrade that. FWIW the uber cheap SUP Beam T10 head has much stronger glass.

If some of that sounded negative that's just because I think this light is the closest light to the perfect light out there! I'm certainly going to buy one. Honestly if they checked all the boxes I was looking for I'd probably buy 10 as flashlights like this are excellent gifts. However reliability is the very top of the list for gift giving from me. With $130 gift, I'd much rather give a much simpler light that I was confident could be depended upon for many years. Over here it's kind of a bad sign to give someone a "flashy" gift that just ends up in the can with a "You know that really could have been a cool gift if only they had..."


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## 430Scuderia (Oct 30, 2013)

rickypanecatyl said:


> I'm hoping that position 1 you mentioned for momentary is turned all the way clockwise. I have this personal hang up of liking my modes to be in sequential order such as low, med, high, turbo as opposed to something like turbo, low, high, medium. Even more unique to me (I realize it's as random as a developing nation chosing which side of the road to drive on - follow England or the US?) I like it to go from lower to higher when turning clockwise."



Unfortunately the momentary position is all the way to the left counter clockwise according the picture on the Thrunite website. 
I agree with you that it should be all the way to the right clockwise. They should adhere to KISS principle (Keep it simple stupid) meaning ALL THE WAY RIGHT = BRIGHT! It's only natural for electronics to increase when turning to the right regardless of what country.


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## bluemax_1 (Oct 30, 2013)

rickypanecatyl said:


> The Scorpion Turbo Head fits quite nicely on the T10 SUP Beam body and puts our a floodier beam that I like better. There is a gap between the top of the emitter and bottom of the reflector though.
> (This is an experimental post by the way - I'm trying to attach multiple pictures from Tapatalk.)



It physically 'fits', as in the threads are the same so it screws on, but if you showed beamshots of the three:
- the Scorpion v2 Turbo has a nice beam with a good hotspot and decently wide spillbeam
- the T10 has a tight beam. Super tight hotspot and much narrower spillbeam
- the T10 with Scorpion's Turbo head produces a beam with LOTS of ringy artifacts due to the gap between the base of the reflector and emitter.

BTW, I misspoke when I said the T10 has the narrowest beam for a 1x18650 light. The ArmyTek Predator has a similarly throw focused beam. Very tight hotspot and narrow spill.


Max


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## rickypanecatyl (Oct 30, 2013)

430Scuderia said:


> Unfortunately the momentary position is all the way to the left counter clockwise according the picture on the Thrunite website.
> I agree with you that it should be all the way to the right clockwise. They should adhere to KISS principle (Keep it simple stupid) meaning ALL THE WAY RIGHT = BRIGHT! It's only natural for electronics to increase when turning to the right regardless of what country.



Momentary firefly it is for me then!  Interesting to hear others think its only natural to increase in brightness as you turn right as well. 

In my mind this kind of balances out one of the best, simplest UI functions with a non intuitive order. One of my biggest expectations in a light that is labeled "tactical" is that it works reliably, consistently and _*SIMPLY *_under duress. Under duress I can easily, simply flick the ring with my thumb all the way left or right. I wouldn't be able to reliably stop at a notch in the center though and I can't think consistently in my mind, "Is this the Gen 1 Thru nite I'm holding or the Gen 2 Thrunite I'm holding? ... Let's see... 3 clicks to the left or all the way right on this one?"

Unlike the average LEO, firefly (as well as max) is an emergency mode for me. I just got back from Myanmar where we work with the Kachin and Karen peoples - trying to support while the Burmese military systematically tries to kill Men, woman and kids. We use firefly for not attracting attention to ourselves when doing a quick escape/move.
More often though are non emergency situations where is really is nice to know your light is coming on in full power or firefly. Firefly for not hurting night vision and walking thru the house without disturbing people and max to impress yourself and friends!


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## rickypanecatyl (Oct 30, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> It physically 'fits', as in the threads are the same so it screws on, but if you showed beamshots of the three:
> - the Scorpion v2 Turbo has a nice beam with a good hotspot and decently wide spillbeam
> - the T10 has a tight beam. Super tight hotspot and much narrower spillbeam
> - the T10 with Scorpion's Turbo head produces a beam with LOTS of ringy artifacts due to the gap between the base of the reflector and emitter.
> ...


My turbo head is cracked (that makes 2 cracked turboheads and 2 cracked replacements for me with no drops!) so I have EXTRA artifacts in the beam. Aside from the cheap glass, it produces by far my favorite _all around use_ beam pattern.
I've got the predator with the XPG2 emitter as well. It and the SUP T10 seem to throw about the same distance though the SUP has almost 2X the lumens. This is all personal of course but I consider the Scorpion with normal head quite floody, with turbohead it's my favorite "neutral" beam pattern, the SUP beam crosses the line into thrower pattern (but barely in my mind) and the Predator XPG2 is a thrower. (Then if you really wanted to get a throwy shaped beam you'd take the old 3D Mag incandescent which throws as far as the predator BUT with about 10X less lumens - I just mention that as my personal definition of thrower vs floody beam is still probably shaped by the fact that just 10 years ago that ratio of cd/lumens ie. 30Kcd/45lumens was "normal flashlight" in my book.)


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## 430Scuderia (Oct 31, 2013)

rickypanecatyl said:


> Momentary firefly it is for me then!  Interesting to hear others think its only natural to increase in brightness as you turn right as well.



Just to be clear according to their website, it appears the momentary switch position location has Max output only with no provision for user defined adjustable levels like the other 3 positions.


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## rickypanecatyl (Oct 31, 2013)

Oops! For about 1/2 second I thought, "Oh that's no big deal! I'll just hold the light upside down and then I've got momentary max all the way right like I was hoping!" I need some sleep


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## Glenn7 (Oct 31, 2013)

I don't quite understand peoples problem of where the momentary position is as it makes sense to me. I've always changed the settings with my pointer finger and maybe the bottom half of my thumb, that way the tip of my thumb is always at the ready to press/activate the light making it quicker IMO - if you are using just your thumb only to change modes then it makes it slower to turn the light on "if we're talking tactical" 

So for me when I grab the light by the tail end, the anti-roll ring is between my index and pointer finger automatically resting my pointer finger on the rotary part is just natural (for me) like a normal dial I would use my pointer finger as it naturally curls that way then using my thumb to push the button on, again only my opinion but 9 times out of ten high stress tactical needs high right now! and if like someone here said fire fly is what they need for tactical map reading or escape then dial fully the other way.
Another way to look at it is if you are looking at the light side on and using your pointer finger then the dial is the right way, up for high and down for low (suppose its just different spacial thinking - like being able to read a map upside down)......


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## bluemax_1 (Oct 31, 2013)

Glenn7 said:


> I don't quite understand peoples problem of where the momentary position is as it makes sense to me. I've always changed the settings with my pointer finger and maybe the bottom half of my thumb, that way the tip of my thumb is always at the ready to press/activate the light making it quicker IMO - if you are using just your thumb only to change modes then it makes it slower to turn the light on "if we're talking tactical"
> 
> So for me when I grab the light by the tail end, *the anti-roll ring is between my index and pointer finger* automatically resting my pointer finger on the rotary part is just natural (for me) like a normal dial I would use my pointer finger as it naturally curls that way then using my thumb to push the button on, again only my opinion but 9 times out of ten high stress tactical needs high right now! and if like someone here said fire fly is what they need for tactical map reading or escape then dial fully the other way.
> Another way to look at it is if you are looking at the light side on and using your pointer finger then the dial is the right way, up for high and down for low (suppose its just different spacial thinking - like being able to read a map upside down)......



Out of curiosity, if the bolded line is NOT a typo, which finger do you use to point? If we're looking at the right hand, palm-side down, from left to right, we have the thumb, index finger (which is also commonly called the pointer finger by many people), middle finger, ring finger and little finger.

I also like the positioning of the rotary dial on the Scorpion/Lynx on the back end where the tailswitch is. With a bezel down carry position, the dial can be rotated quickly to the desired position before turning it on. With the light held in a reverse grip (thumb on tailswitch, the dial can easily be rotated with the index/pointer finger or index finger + thumb. I really like that you can pre-stage the Scorpion (and presumably the Lynx as well).

I agree with GlennZ, for most folks, generally when you REALLY need light NOW, you need as much of it as possible, so position 1 being Momentary Maximum makes sense for tactical usage. The way mine will be programmed when I get it is #1 Momentary Max (factory set non-programmable evidently, but I would still have it set this way anyway), #2 Constant On Maximum, #3 Constant On Low/Med, #4 Tactical Strobe. That way, in an emergency, I either crank full counterclockwise for Momentary Max or full clockwise for Strobe. The other levels, I can take my time to select.


Max


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## Glenn7 (Nov 1, 2013)

Bluemax_1 - yes finger mix up :duh2: I was trying to mean middle finger below anti-roll ring and pointer above anti-roll ring then thumb on button :thumbsup: (or I have 2x index fingers on my hand :nana:

Just how you will set your Lynx up Mr Bluemax is exactly how mine will be, no guess work.


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## 430Scuderia (Nov 1, 2013)

Glenn7 said:


> I don't quite understand peoples problem of where the momentary position is as it makes sense to me. I've always changed the settings with my pointer finger and maybe the bottom half of my thumb, that way the tip of my thumb is always at the ready to press/activate the light making it quicker IMO - if you are using just your thumb only to change modes then it makes it slower to turn the light on "if we're talking tactical"
> 
> So for me when I grab the light by the tail end, the anti-roll ring is between my index and pointer finger automatically resting my pointer finger on the rotary part is just natural (for me) like a normal dial I would use my pointer finger as it naturally curls that way then using my thumb to push the button on, again only my opinion but 9 times out of ten high stress tactical needs high right now! and if like someone here said fire fly is what they need for tactical map reading or escape then dial fully the other way.
> Another way to look at it is if you are looking at the light side on and using your pointer finger then the dial is the right way, up for high and down for low (suppose its just different spacial thinking - like being able to read a map upside down)......



The Scorpion V2/V3 had the correct mode order ala the original Gladius light in which these lights are copied from. The Lynx should have been the same. I recall an article about the Gladius a long time ago and it discussed why they had it in that specific order. Can't seem to find it now though.


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## rickypanecatyl (Nov 1, 2013)

430Scuderia said:


> The Scorpion V2/V3 had the correct mode order ala the original Gladius light in which these lights are copied from. The Lynx should have been the same. I recall an article about the Gladius a long time ago and it discussed why they had it in that specific order. Can't seem to find it now though.



Is there a difference between V1 & V2/3? My scorpion L to R was lock, Medium*, Firefly, strobe, max. They used to advertise that Medium mode as infinitely variable but I think they realized it ramped too slowly and should be considered a user programmable mode between 8 and 80 % max power. 
I'm really excited on the lynx to have something between Firefly and the lowest variable - that's good news! 

Sent from my C5502 using Tapatalk


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## 430Scuderia (Nov 1, 2013)

rickypanecatyl said:


> Is there a difference between V1 & V2/3? My scorpion L to R was lock, Medium*, Firefly, strobe, max. They used to advertise that Medium mode as infinitely variable but I think they realized it ramped too slowly and should be considered a user programmable mode between 8 and 80 % max power.
> I'm really excited on the lynx to have something between Firefly and the lowest variable - that's good news!
> 
> Sent from my C5502 using Tapatalk



From L - R:
Original Gladius = lockout, user adjustable, momentary strobe, momentary max.
V1 Scorpion = lockout, firefly, user adjustable, momentary max, momentary strobe.
V2/3 Scorpion = lockout, user adjustable, firefly, momentary strobe, momentary max.
I should clarify that I consider V2 as having the xml-T6 and V3 the xml-U2 but with the same operational modes.

As you're aware, Thrunite added the firefly modes which I personally think is useless. Good that the Lynx is user adjustable now.


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## Dennis (Nov 5, 2013)

I just received a Production model Lynx, supposedly the first one to a USA customer per Thrunite. I have owned the original Gladius, Scorpion V1, and V2 and have always thought the UI was second only to SF push thru two level lights in pure Tactical usefulness for Duty LE use. Of course, the twisty multi-level UI also has many advantages but I won't go into any details as everyone here already knows them!

Initial Impressions:
- Solidly built including the new metal tailcap
- Survived my multiple 5' drop test to carpet 
- Out-throws a Scorpion V2 with turbo head
- Don't know why Max is now on the counter clockwise/left end. But easy enough to get used to if I stop using the Scorpion...
- Twisty switch is smoother/harder to actuate than the plastic one. Added skateboard tape just as I did with the plastic one.
- Wish strobe could be momentary like the Scorpion
- Momentary "return to off" switch movement is slower than with the Scorpion, not sure if it is due to a weaker spring, slower inertia due to weight, friction, or whatever. 
- "Triple Click To Lock" is tricky to do, but I may not be used to it yet. Luckily it does not work in Momentary. Unluckily, it returns to the mode it was set in regardless of the new switch position which requires an extra press to get when coming out of lockout. The old twisty lock was definitely hard to use but I could ignore it. Unfortunately, I already accidentally activated the triple click lock a couple times doing things like trying to use a regular mode like momentary.

Perfect Dream Changes
- Low to High Clockwise like everyone else!
- Momentary Strobe as well
- Stronger switch spring for harder activation and quicker de-activation
- Neutral to warm tint!
- No lockout. Loosening/tightening tailcap much quicker/easier/positive than a triple click.

Overall after only a couple hours my impression is that the build quality, all metal switch, and output make this a better light than any previous. Albeit not perfect :-( If I can work out how to avoid accidental activation on my vest I will give it a chance on duty.

Dennis.


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## rickypanecatyl (Nov 6, 2013)

Dennis said:


> Perfect Dream Changes
> - _*Low to High Clockwise like everyone else!*_
> - Momentary Strobe as well
> - _*Stronger switch spring for harder activation and quicker de-activation*_
> ...



I realize we don't all agree on the low to high clockwise, but I'm sure with you Dennis on that one. I also can feel for all the manufacturers like Thrunite who are trying to keep all of us happy! (LEFT should be max!! NO!!! RIGHT should be max!) Personally I've got so many $80-$130 flashlights that I got because they were ALMOST what I was looking for but not quite - it would save me lots of money and reduce lots of clutter to be able to mod the closest light I have to what I am looking for which is this one. I'd be happy to pay a modder if they were able to swap that momentary max to the opposite side. Perhaps they could even add a momentary turbo?

I'm curious if enough of us wanted that if Thrunite would be willing to do that for us? *Just throwing something out there - how about for a charge (I don't want/expect nor believe that anyone can do anything worthwhile for free) Thrunite you could custom set up a light for us?* Swap momentary Max to the opposite side of the dial? Add a secondary momentary for strobe? (I don't personally want that but know some do!)

As far as the stronger switch spring to prevent accidental activation - I'm just guessing here so correct me if I'm wrong, I can't imagine anyone being against that? Certainly anyone that can bench press over 8 ounces finds it more than easy to activate? I position mine for fast grabbing in a pocket close to where my fingers naturally swing while walking - an accidental brush is enough to activate it. When I carry it I'm told a couple times a day by strangers my pocket is glowing. Because of its location its much easier for outsiders to see.

I love this light with the turbohead as well which in my opinion is a fantastic beam pattern. Another improvement I really doubt anyone would be against would be to toughen up the turbohead lens. I had several lens break and many others did as well. Though many with the turbohead did not have problems with the lens shattering I can't see any of them being against having a stronger lens - unless it was because they were positive they wouldn't need it and it added $5 to the cost or cut out 2% of the OTF lumens?

FWIW to Thrunite I was pretty upset with your $35 lens replacement fee coupled with your knowledge that your lens was weak. If you don't want to ire customers, don't intentionally try to make a profit on a weakness design flaw! (Though I do suppose that is what they call the whole Gillette razor sales philosophy... it's just they are not advertising their razors as "tactical".)


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## tubed (Nov 6, 2013)

i'm confused.
I thought this new light (essentially) had 4 user-programmable modes. that what it looks like in Selfbuilt's review.
so it seems you could put high and low on either side.


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## bluemax_1 (Nov 6, 2013)

tubed said:


> i'm confused.
> I thought this new light (essentially) had 4 user-programmable modes. that what it looks like in Selfbuilt's review.
> so it seems you could put high and low on either side.


The production models have 4 modes. Momentary Maximum on the most counterclockwise position, followed by 3 user programmable modes as you turn the knob clockwise.


Max


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## 430Scuderia (Nov 6, 2013)

Dennis, thanks for your review. I sincerely hope Thrunite is listening and will implement the necessary improvements as recommended from REAL Leos in the next Lynx V2.


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## Dennis (Nov 11, 2013)

Dennis said:


> I just received a Production model Lynx, supposedly the first one to a USA customer per Thrunite. I have owned the original Gladius, Scorpion V1, and V2 and have always thought the UI was second only to SF push thru two level lights in pure Tactical usefulness for Duty LE use. Of course, the twisty multi-level UI also has many advantages but I won't go into any details as everyone here already knows them!
> 
> Initial Impressions:
> - Solidly built including the new metal tailcap
> ...



After a week a use I have a couple more observations:

- The user selectable modes needs some sort of "lock" mechanism, and a way to select momentary/constant. It is too easy to change modes when clicking around just trying to get light. Previously, user selectable was limited to one mode and that made it less prone to failure. Now 3/4 modes will get you messed up if you happen to "press" only and not just click.

- The all metal swtich/turning mechanism started binding up when applying side pressure when using only a thumb to twist. This was not an issue with previous plastic switch rings. This was rectified with a shot of silicone spray. However, how long will that last? Will there be buildup that cannot be cleaned out?

Although I love the idea of the UI, the Lynx definitely needs a few more tweaks before it is an ideal "Duty" light. I have no argument that it works well for an enthusiast, but as an enthusiast and practical LE user the downfalls of this light currently outweigh the great output and build quality.

Dennis.


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## tubed (Nov 11, 2013)

arggh!
i've been searching hard for one-handed pocket thrower with no glitches. 
thought this was the one.
there's always next year


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## rickypanecatyl (Nov 12, 2013)

Thanks for the feedback/update Dennis! I sure hope Thrunite takes it seriously and continues to refine this "_*potentially *_amazing light!"

My dream light would be this UI but with surefire's 4 way clicky switch on the back - off/momentary/click for on/past on for instant "thumb access" to max.

Looking at the control ring on the Nitecore SRT 7 I was wondering if it would be possible to do something like that only slide it all the back to the back of the battery tube, put indents on it so that it could be easily spun with the thumb.


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## Ernst from Germany (Nov 28, 2013)

Thank You for the Test of the Thrunite Lynx.Now I must decide between the Thrunite Lynx and the Nitecore SRT 7. Very difficult!!
Ernst


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## rickypanecatyl (Nov 28, 2013)

Another question... does anyone know... is the technology basically the same in the gladius/scorpion/sup/lynx as it is in the nitecore SRT series or sunway man V series?

Is there any reason in a light like the SRT 7 you couldn't move the control ring back almost to the back of the light to enable you to change it with your thumb like we do on the lynx/scorpion?


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## kj2 (Nov 30, 2013)

I've the Lynx at the moment, for review too. Some features I like, and there are things I don't like.
Biggest 'error' I find, is the stainless steel bezel. This bezel creates a 'rainbow' at the end of the spill. When I take the bezel off, it's gone.


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## yalskey (Nov 30, 2013)

In October of 2012, I sent 5 suggestions to ThruNite to improve the Scorpion, and incorporate into the V3 (which I now understand was changed to Lynx).

The following was my first and most important suggestion:
"1. I have noticed that when I pocket-carry the light, sometimes when I take it out to use it, it will NOT turn on. For tactical purposes this could be dangerous. I've found that if the end cap (where you put the batteries in) is just a few degrees turned-loose then the light will NOT turn on. I have to ensure that the end cap piece is fully tightened down or else the light fails on me upon deployment. Even 3 or 4 degrees of loose-twist from snug will cause the light to become deactivated. I would recommend at least a quarter-turn (90 degrees) before the light cuts out... if possible even more."

*Any one know if they have fixed this issue with the Lynx?*

For those interested, my other 4 suggestions were basically: 2. Make the tailcap+button metal, 3. More aggressive bezel spikes, 4. Eliminate tab alignment on tailcap, and 5. All 4 modes programmable.

...interestingly, ThruNite never responded to my email/suggestions.


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## kj2 (Nov 30, 2013)

yalskey said:


> In October of 2012, I sent 5 suggestions to ThruNite to improve the Scorpion, and incorporate into the V3 (which I now understand was changed to Lynx).
> 
> The following was my first and most important suggestion:
> "1. I have noticed that when I pocket-carry the light, sometimes when I take it out to use it, it will NOT turn on. For tactical purposes this could be dangerous. I've found that if the end cap (where you put the batteries in) is just a few degrees turned-loose then the light will NOT turn on. I have to ensure that the end cap piece is fully tightened down or else the light fails on me upon deployment. Even 3 or 4 degrees of loose-twist from snug will cause the light to become deactivated. I would recommend at least a quarter-turn (90 degrees) before the light cuts out... if possible even more."
> ...


When I loosen the tailcap slightly, it won't turn on. If you need your light to be 'tactical', and always should turn on, I suggest a light that has no anodized threads at the tail.
But it does take some force, to loosen the tailcap on my sample.


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## Mrgunsngear (Nov 30, 2013)

yalskey said:


> In October of 2012, I sent 5 suggestions to ThruNite to improve the Scorpion, and incorporate into the V3 (which I now understand was changed to Lynx).
> 
> The following was my first and most important suggestion:
> "1. I have noticed that when I pocket-carry the light, sometimes when I take it out to use it, it will NOT turn on. For tactical purposes this could be dangerous. I've found that if the end cap (where you put the batteries in) is just a few degrees turned-loose then the light will NOT turn on. I have to ensure that the end cap piece is fully tightened down or else the light fails on me upon deployment. Even 3 or 4 degrees of loose-twist from snug will cause the light to become deactivated. I would recommend at least a quarter-turn (90 degrees) before the light cuts out... if possible even more."
> ...




I have the new Lynx---it still cuts out with a quick turn (under 90 degrees).


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## yalskey (Nov 30, 2013)

kj2 said:


> When I loosen the tailcap slightly, it won't turn on. If you need your light to be 'tactical', and always should turn on, I suggest a light that has no anodized threads at the tail.
> But it does take some force, to loosen the tailcap on my sample.



If they haven't improved this aspect, I would consider that a big design blunder on their part. You make a tank-like premium tactical flashlight, that can be rendered completely inoperable by turning the tail cap a couple of degrees. If you EDC it in your pocket like me, your bound to get the light to loose just by everyday wear and tear and bumps, etc. I've pulled out the light to use it, only to have it fail on me due to this oversight in design (my opinion).

Well, I guess there's still hope they will fix this on the Lynx V2.


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## kj2 (Nov 30, 2013)

yalskey said:


> If they haven't improved this aspect, I would consider that a big design blunder on their part. You make a tank-like premium tactical flashlight, that can be rendered completely inoperable by turning the tail cap a couple of degrees. If you EDC it in your pocket like me, your bound to get the light to loose just by everyday wear and tear and bumps, etc. I've pulled out the light to use it, only to have it fail on me due to this oversight in design (my opinion).
> 
> Well, I guess there's still hope they will fix this on the Lynx V2.


Biggest 'issue' I got, is the selector-ring. When I wear it in my jeans, it some times rotate. Which can cause blinding in dark places, or moonlight when you need all the power. 
But will mention this further, in my upcoming review


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## Dubois (Dec 4, 2013)

kj2 said:


> Biggest 'issue' I got, is the selector-ring. When I wear it in my jeans, it some times rotate. Which can cause blinding in dark places, or moonlight when you need all the power.
> But will mention this further, in my upcoming review



I've been playing with the Lynx for a week now, and have never had a problem with the selector ring rotating in my pocket. I did worry about accidental activation, with the fairly prominent switch, but have found that leaving the ring set to the momentary position helps, if I forget to use the simple three click lock out.


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## kj2 (Dec 5, 2013)

Dubois said:


> I've been playing with the Lynx for a week now, and have never had a problem with the selector ring rotating in my pocket. I did worry about accidental activation, with the fairly prominent switch, but have found that leaving the ring set to the momentary position helps, if I forget to use the simple three click lock out.


Two days ago, I had a accidental activation while it was in my jeans. Luckily I had it on moonlight mode


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## wyoben (Dec 31, 2013)

Thank you for the review looking into getting a new light. These reviews and forum comments help a lot.


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## zifnab69 (Feb 12, 2014)

I have both scorpion and lynx and i don't see a big difference between the fireflight modes .
when i buy the lynx i expect a lower fireflight mode 

it is possible to swap lynx and scorpion tailcap. I prefer the scorpion tailcap.


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## selfbuilt (Feb 13, 2014)

zifnab69 said:


> I have both scorpion and lynx and i don't see a big difference between the fireflight modes .
> when i buy the lynx i expect a lower fireflight mode
> it is possible to swap lynx and scorpion tailcap. I prefer the scorpion tailcap.


I haven't tried swapping the tailcaps. It may be physically possible, but I'm not sure what effect that would have on functionality (i.e., the tailcap circuit's interaction with the main circuit). I would suggest you check with Thrunite (or get feedback from someone who has done this) first.

As for the firefly mode, I have noticed on other lights that this can be quite variable from one sample to the next. So the fact that my Lynx was slightly lower than my Scorpion (i.e. 0.07 vs 0.12 estimated lumens in my lightbox) should not be taken as indicative of all samples. It's possible that they all vary around a common average firefly, and that there is in fact no consistent difference between Lynx and Scorpion. We would need to see data from more samples to have a better idea.


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## zifnab69 (Feb 13, 2014)

I have already swaped the tailcaps between the two flashlight and every things are working as usual. 

i prefer the scorpion tailcaps because the "cut" are deeper and i can turn it with just one finger. ( its more difficult with the lynx tailcap).
Lynx is a nice flashlight for people who don't have the scorpion. I think there is not a 'real" great difference between both (in every day use). i probably setup my flashlight the same way my scorpion work. ( fireflight, 200lumens, strob, momentary 1000) or perhaps (fireflight, 200 lumens, 400 lumens, momentary 1000) (right to left)

But, the diffuser is a great improvement, and i'll love to buy one other for my scorpion ( and the color filters to) but i don't know where to found them


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## light36 (Feb 14, 2014)

Excellent review selfbuilt !!


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## akapuckthecat (May 13, 2014)

I see that interest in this thread seems to have ended a couple months ago. Selfbuilt mentioned in the review that he had problems with higher capacity (3100, 3400mAh) batteries achieving turbo mode. Does anyone who owns one of these lights know if Thrunite has addressed this issue? Is it still an issue? I think Selfbuilt was reviewing a pre-production prototype.


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## rickypanecatyl (May 16, 2014)

Don't know that answer but have my own question since you brought it back up...

Does anyone know if Thrunite eventually made a version with clockwise turbo/ccw low mode for the LOGICALLY THINKING people? 

Such a cool U.I. - pity they put it in backwards!


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## Rick_R (Aug 9, 2014)

User defined mode problem.
 
Just got mine in (8-7-14). When “ramping” through brightness levels, it will step to the lowest mode, flash twice and start ramping higher/brighter. The problem is when it reaches max output, I get 3 flashes, the light goes out and will not come back on, as if it goes into “lockout”. Never gets to any of the strobe modes.
Regardless of the number/pace of button pushes, no joy. To re-activate the light, you have to remove the tail cap assy. completely from the body, re-attach, then the light will function again (???).
Trying to set it too, momentary, max, med, fast strobe.
 
Anyone with this problem?


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## selfbuilt (Aug 9, 2014)

Sounds like it could be similar to the problem I identified in the review on 3100mAh and 3400mah cells. What kind of cells are you using?


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## Rick_R (Aug 9, 2014)

The cells used were, 1) their 2600mAh that came with the light. 2) Orbtranic 3400mAh. Both cells were toped-up and tested again. Same issue persisted?
In your review, you mentioned that temperature may/was the problem. Here on the San Francisco Bay Peninsula, the temp. was apx. 67 deg. F. So I hope cell temp. isn’t the culprit with this production sample.
I have added some “Deoxit” red to the switch assy. (it seemed a little ‘dry’ in it’s operation).

Update.(8-10-14)


Seems now all is well. Was able to set the ‘user defined’ modes, and not “lock-out” while setting the output level/mode.
I think the problem may have been with the switch mechanism. After adding the “Deoxit” red around the button, it ramped through all the brightness levels and strobe modes without a hitch (an hour later). 
If it was a cell voltage issue, we will see as the cell runs down, and the settings hold (seems strange that a current controlled, buck/boost driver and electronic switch flashlight would be this sensitive to cell voltage). 
I will be using this light heavily this week and see what happens. 
I set the modes/output to: (from L to R) 1=momentary turbo; 2=turbo: 3=fast strobe; 4=med. Low (apx. 40%). I know this isn’t the orig. Gladius spec., but what the heck, I’m a ‘lefty’. 

_Build impressions:
Likes_ – 1) Solid construction. 2) Very gripy. Feels good in the hand. 3) Good balance between ‘hotspot’ and ‘spill’. 4) Almost, insane output. People cannot look at you (“it hurts!”, don’t know exactly where you are). Good!


_Dislikes_ – 1) spring on button switch to soft. 2) Threads between bezel and head to loose (bezel unscrews to easily). 3) Tail-cap assy. probably needs an o-ring at the end of the tube body to help from loosening to easily, when belt/pocket clip is removed. Gap between belt/pocket clip retention ring and tail-cap assy.

For LEO/Security duty carry, there is only one (in my opinion) belt carrier,
is the ESP LHU-14-37/43 carrier/holster.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 10, 2014)

Rick_R said:


> Seems now all is well. Was able to set the ‘user defined’ modes, and not “lock-out” while setting the output level/mode.I think the problem may have been with the switch mechanism. After adding the “Deoxit” red around the button, it ramped through all the brightness levels and strobe modes without a hitch (an hour later).


Good to know. Let us know if it continues to work reliably.


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## Rick_R (Aug 18, 2014)

*Thrunite ‘Lynx’ - Update (8-18-14)*
 This light is great. I have used it for a bit over a week now, and it performs as reviewed/advertised. 

The beam profile is almost the best of all the lights I have (except for the Eagletac SX25L3 w/MT-G2). The ‘hotspot’ to ‘spill’ transition is smooth, not ringy all the way to the outer edge of the spill. When you light someone up, they cannot look at you, they look at the ground, try and shade their eyes, with body language as if ‘they are in some pain’.
I was normally carrying a Nitecore MT-26 (and a P-12 as backup) before acquiring the “Lynx” and comparing the two in field use, the ‘Lynx” just handles better, puts more intense light on and off target to get the job done with punch.
 
The problems that I reported earlier have not re-occurred. Have changed cells three times, without any issues. The pre-sets are still in place, transitioning from ‘Turbo’ to ‘Strobe’ and locking-out the light hasn’t happened. I did notice a slight dimming in output, when the battery got low (from a current controlled, buck-boost driver ??). 
The only problem (if I would call it that) that I have in use, is the transition from a ‘forward-clicky’ to a ‘reverse-clicky’. 
_ _
_If I were to add/change anything:_
1- The SS bezel. A) Needs to be “blackened” at least internally, to eliminate the ‘ring’ outside the spill (also reported by HJK). If you remove the bezel, it’s gone. (Note: You can’t just remove the bezel to eliminate this. If you were to drop the light head down, it would deform the thread area, as this is to thin to escape damage). I replaced it with the diffuser, after removing the glass insert. B) Tighten the tolerances in bezel threads to head. It un-screws way to easily. C) The outside edge of the SS bezel is a little too sharp, needs deeper de-burring. 
2- Increase the strobe rate to 18Hz (Or variable between 10 & 18Hz). Eliminate ‘Slow Strobe.”
3- Add a fifth position, for ‘Momentary Strobe’.
4- Remove ‘lock-out’ feature. Not needed. Twist the tail-cap slightly loose (I think this would work out the best, while
5- Add an o-ring to be placed between the clip fixing ring and tail-cap assembly (this will help the tail-cap and ring from loosening).
6- Reduce the switch ‘stroke’ slightly (20% ?), and increase the spring rate a bit (to easy to depress). 
7- Add some light knurling to the ‘mode’ switch, then cut in some the flutes (Needs just a little more traction).
under stress, and needing get the light on ‘now’).
 
The on/off & mode switching, all at the tail-cap is definitely the way to go for a ‘Tactical’ flashlight. The on/off and mode switching at each end of a light, is problematic. 
I thought the Nitecore SRT-7 would be a nice mode switcher quickly, but with the functions opposed from each other, 
you have to change grips or use the other hand. 
 
All-in-all I’m very happy with this light. In a urban environment, this light doesn’t get ‘washed-out’ by the ambient lighting as much as some of the other tactical lights that I have. Is it perfect in the LEO/Security world. No, It’s awfully close though. Oh, did I say I liked this beam. Yea I really like it.
 
Note: The holster that comes with the light, is way to flimsy for daily use. It’s also about ¾” short in grabbing all of the Velcro patch, without activating the button on/off switch.
 
Thankz, Rick


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## Danielsan (Sep 15, 2014)

Is the light out of production? IN the review it says the Lynx will switch to an ultra low mode to indicate the voltage is low. The question would how low is the voltage when this happens? 3V under load? because probably the protection of the battery will kick in before the light indicates the low voltage?


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## Rick_R (Sep 16, 2014)

I don't think it's out of production (it's to new). It appears that _Thrunite_ has production run’s in batch’s. 
 
As to: ultra low mode to indicate the voltage is low. I would not know, never have run the cell down to where ‘low voltage’ protection kicks in. I have noticed a significant reduction in output (while on high/turbo) and just changed the cell out.
I don’t use/carry this light outside of work. It would be un-healthy and problematic to not have full capability, Now.


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## rhr1960 (Oct 13, 2014)

Wow, have just spent quite a bit of time searching online for a Lynx, but to no avail. Only available on eBay from some (sketchy?) source in Hong Kong. Looking forward to Thrunite's next batch becoming available!


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## Danielsan (Oct 13, 2014)

rhr1960 said:


> Wow, have just spent quite a bit of time searching online for a Lynx, but to no avail. Only available on eBay from some (sketchy?) source in Hong Kong. Looking forward to Thrunite's next batch becoming available!



I think this light is out of production because it was obviously to complex to build, ive posted soem inside pictures of the guts i found on google and it looks damn complex with all the flex cables, hall sensors and other stuff inside. Maybe they ditched this light for the more simple Tn30s. I wouldnt call HKequipment sketchy, it seems you have no other choice because its sold out all over europe and the US i guess


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## rickypanecatyl (Oct 14, 2014)

They went to a lot of work to make an amazing UI and shot themselves in the foot with a moronic mode sequence undermining that UI.

I think they've already done the most difficult part; I'd love to see them fine tune it and I do think it would sell.


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## Moonshadow (Oct 16, 2014)

Indeed - all they had to do was to go back to the Gladius mode of operation where a press-and-hold from on would initiate the ramping.

Either that or make it do something really useful like momentary max and then back to the preset level when released.

Keep it simple, folks !


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## Glenn7 (Oct 16, 2014)

Another alternative is the Supbeam T10 quite close to being the same light at a cheaper price - I have bought 2 for a mate that are used for security and they get a fair bashing and they are still going strong after 2ish years.
The head on the T10 is bigger like the turbo head for the lynx - so you get more throw.


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## bluemax_1 (Oct 16, 2014)

Glenn7 said:


> Another alternative is the Supbeam T10 quite close to being the same light at a cheaper price - I have bought 2 for a mate that are used for security and they get a fair bashing and they are still going strong after 2ish years.
> The head on the T10 is bigger like the turbo head for the lynx - so you get more throw.



The beam of the T10 is far too throw-oriented for my liking, but of course, personal preferences will vary.

The T10 has a very narrow spot and a narrow spillbeam which is much more prone to creating tunnel vision. The Thrunite Turbo head OTOH, has a very nice beam with good throw and a nice wide spillbeam.


Max


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## Danielsan (Oct 17, 2014)

Glenn7 said:


> Another alternative is the Supbeam T10 quite close to being the same light at a cheaper price - I have bought 2 for a mate that are used for security and they get a fair bashing and they are still going strong after 2ish years.
> The head on the T10 is bigger like the turbo head for the lynx - so you get more throw.


I think Supbeam produced some models for thrunite in the past. The question is, can you program the T10 with the brightness you want like the thrunite lynx or has the selectorring fixed brightness steps?


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## Glenn7 (Oct 17, 2014)

Yes one of the settings on the selectorring has user adjustable setting - check it out on there web site supbeam.com


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## gsteve (Oct 26, 2014)

not on their site currently?


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## Glenn7 (Oct 26, 2014)

gsteve said:


> not on their site currently?



I'm assuming you mean the T10? http://supbeam.com/en/supbeam-t10-cree-xm-l2-945-lumens-tactica-flashlight


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## Glenn7 (Oct 27, 2014)

bluemax_1 said:


> The beam of the T10 is far too throw-oriented for my liking, but of course, personal preferences will vary.
> 
> The T10 has a very narrow spot and a narrow spillbeam which is much more prone to creating tunnel vision. The Thrunite Turbo head OTOH, has a very nice beam with good throw and a nice wide spillbeam.
> 
> ...



I totally agree, if money is not a problem I would go the Lynx. But I guess my point is the T10 might be the poorer cousin but at $70 (I think that's what I paid) its not too bad and you get the bigger (or turbo) head as standard, Lynx is $130 + $30 for the turbo head. 
I have the Lynx as well and IMO the T10 is 95% as good as the lynx in build quality.


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## bluemax_1 (Oct 27, 2014)

Glenn7 said:


> I totally agree, if money is not a problem I would go the Lynx. But I guess my point is the T10 might be the poorer cousin but at $70 (I think that's what I paid) its not too bad and you get the bigger (or turbo) head as standard, Lynx is $130 + $30 for the turbo head.
> I have the Lynx as well and IMO the T10 is 95% as good as the lynx in build quality.


Pity they recessed the T10 so the Thrunite heads won't focus the emitter.


Max


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## chouster (Oct 28, 2014)

Moonshadow said:


> ...make it do something really useful like momentary max and then back to the preset level when released...


Mine does exactly that. 

In fact, there are two versions, the one with the anodized threads does not behave like that, it goes out after momentary max.
The one with the non-anodized threads goes back to where it came from after momentary on, so off if activated from off or to the mode you used before.

Furthermore the one with the non-anodized threads can only be locked from on and comes back to the mode you locked it from even if you turn the selector ring to a different position while locked (not sure how the anodized version behaves in this regard). In my case I always lock it in a sort of medium mode (but you could do it with any other mode you set) and than turn the ring to momentary max, so when I press the button 3 times it goes to medium and from there it jumps to max by holding the button and back to medium when releasing, without doing anything with the ring. When locked like this you can also tap the button 2 times and hold it down with the 3rd tap and it goes directly into max and back to medium when released.

Hope this wasn't too confusing, explaining in german would be a lot easier for me.

Cheers


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## bluemax_1 (Jan 27, 2015)

Does anyone know if Thrunite is coming out with an updated version of the Lynx? The Lynx hasn't seemed to have been available for some time now.

Would be nice if they updated the light with a 5 position UI, and I actually prefer the old Scorpion half press and turn lockout vs the multiple clicks lockout. It was easy to keep the light locked out to avoid accidental operation (although it takes a little practice to learn to lockout the light without turning it ON), but if I needed to use it, I could just turn the knob to whatever setting I needed and hit the button (which makes momentary Max on one end and Momentary strobe on the other end convenient. Whichever is needed, just crank all the way right or left).


Max


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## CelticCross74 (Jan 28, 2015)

The Lynx is once again available on the Thrunite website I do believe it is updated. Goes for $129.99


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## bluemax_1 (Jan 28, 2015)

CelticCross74 said:


> The Lynx is once again available on the Thrunite website I do believe it is updated. Goes for $129.99



It may be ON their website, but it doesn't seem to be available for purchase, i.e. there is no option to actually buy it. All I can do is select cool white vs neutral white, but there is no way to purchase that I can see. Some of the other lights have an 'Add To Cart' button, but the Lynx is not one of them. It's been that way for months, and there don't seem to be any dealers with it in stock.

That's why I'm wondering if they might be developing an updated version.


Max


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## bluemax_1 (Feb 25, 2015)

Well, the Lynx is now gone from their website, so either Thrunite is potentially coming out with an updated version of the Scorpion/Lynx line, or the TN11S V2 is their idea of a replacement.


Max


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## Rick_R (Feb 27, 2015)

bluemax_1 said:


> Well, the Lynx is now gone from their website, so either Thrunite is potentially coming out with an updated version of the Scorpion/Lynx line, or the TN11S V2 is their idea of a replacement.
> 
> 
> Max



It’s not surprising, considering how availability and sales fell-off drastically 3-4 months after this current version. I do like this lights output and durability. It’s tough. No reliability issues. Still use it every day.
If they due an updated version, I hope the changes are;
1- Tail-cap (i.e. stouter spring(s), a button that ‘clicks’, forward clicky and only one ‘user selectable mode’.
2- Tighter tolerances at the tail-cap and bezel threads, so they don’t un-screw so easily.
3- The SS bezel ‘blackened’, debured (to sharp).
4- Strobe should be 18-20Hz.
But since the light is made for them by _Acebeam (‘T10’),_ and also sold by _Night Reaper Systems LLC (‘Estrela’)_, I don’t think it will be to much different than the other two representations if it’s reintroduced.


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## bluemax_1 (Feb 27, 2015)

The Acebeam still only has one programmable mode IIRC, so Thrunite did select a different driver.

I actually prefer multiple programmable modes because no one can agree on what modes are most useful to them. For instance, I NEVER use moonlight/firefly on a light this size. If I wanted firefly mode, my Quark AA can handle that easily AND run way longer than needed on a single AA in firefly mode.

With lights this size I NEED a momentary and constant Maximum, preferably a momentary tactical strobe (I personally prefer about 10Hz) and ideally, a user selectable low/medium.

Yet, there are folks who say they rarely ever use Maximum and use firefly way more often (again, I don't understand the need for a light this large if firefly is the preferred mode), and that's where multiple user definable modes comes in handy. The user can set what they prefer.

The rest of those suggestions sound good to me.



Max


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## Rick_R (Feb 28, 2015)

bluemax_1 said:


> The Acebeam still only has one programmable mode IIRC, so Thrunite did select a different driver.
> 
> I actually prefer multiple programmable modes because no one can agree on what modes are most useful to them. For instance, I NEVER use moonlight/firefly on a light this size. If I wanted firefly mode, my Quark AA can handle that easily AND run way longer than needed on a single AA in firefly mode.
> 
> ...




Thanks bluemax_1 for your reply,
True, the Acebeam ‘T10’ and Night Reaper Systems ‘Estraela’, only one _user selectable mode_ in their UI (This is a good thing).
Being how this light is targeted towards the LEO/Security/Military/Self defense environments, as opposed to “late night trips through the house”, I’m with you on the firefly/moonlight light level being not necessary or needed. A light this size/weight is not an EDC type light. It’s a ‘Tactical’ flashlight.
The selectable modes have a problem when under stress (training/on the streets), when one’s ‘muscle memory’ says, _push, click, it’s on. “_Ahh,” _‘no click’_ translates into, _‘push & hold’._ The light then starts ramping. Not good! (don’t ask how I know).
I have been working with this light for about 9 months. Momentary = forward push (good); All others = push & release (reverse clicky style) not good. Then you want to change modes, turn off, change, turn back on. As I don’t have examples of the other two lights, I don’t know if this _on/off/on_ is inherent in the design.
As far as the strobe rate. Anything below 12-13Hz can and does affect the user to some degree. Above rates, less user affects, more effective on the targeted person.
There is a reviewer (JohnyMac) that took one of these tights apart. All I can say is ‘there’s a lot going on in there. It looks like mode switching (turning the dial) is by ‘hall effect’. If this is the case, then the UI changes can be done via software/re-flashing the controller. An easy fix/change in what does what where, how bright and how fast/slow.
I would hate to see it go away. Just needs some small refinements and massaging. 
Rick


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## bluemax_1 (Feb 28, 2015)

Wait, I don't have the Lynx. Am I misunderstanding what you wrote? Are you saying that with the Lynx, in order to change between modes when the light is On, you have to first, turn it Off before rotating the knob and then turning it On again in the new mode?

With all the other lights (Scorpion & T10), you could pre-stage another mode, eg. if I turned the light on to the user definable mode set to low/medium, with the light On, I could rotate the knob to pre-stage the Momentary Strobe (or Momentary Maximum) and if I needed it, just hit the button and it would immediately switch to the pre-staged mode.


Max


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## bluemax_1 (Feb 28, 2015)

This just gave me an interesting idea:

I wonder if it would be possible to implement the tailcap rotary selector with a forward clicky as opposed to the magnetic reverse clicky?

Make entering the programming mode via something like 3-4 quick half-presses.

This could be the Ultimate interface! You would only need 3-4 user programmable modes and ALL of them would have the option of momentary with a partial press, or constant with a full click.

That way I could program a Maximum, Strobe and a Low/Medium and be able to half-press for momentary, or full click for constant. With a triple or quad click to enter the programming mode, there's no danger of inadvertently altering the mode you're currently in unintentionally.



Max


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## Rick_R (Feb 28, 2015)

bluemax_1 said:


> This just gave me an interesting idea:
> 
> I wonder if it would be possible to implement the tailcap rotary selector with a forward clicky as opposed to the magnetic reverse clicky?
> 
> ...



THAT!!, would be a great way to select what you want, where you want it. High/low, fast/slow, whatever.
By looking at the tailcap/selector assy. It _might_ be simple to make it 'click'. Then with new software to flash the existing controller, this could work, without a lot of R & D investment. Good Idea.
Rick


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## Rick_R (Feb 28, 2015)

bluemax_1 said:


> Wait, I don't have the Lynx. Am I misunderstanding what you wrote? Are you saying that with the Lynx, in order to change between modes when the light is On, you have to first, turn it Off before rotating the knob and then turning it On again in the new mode?
> 
> With all the other lights (Scorpion & T10), you could pre-stage another mode, eg. if I turned the light on to the user definable mode set to low/medium, with the light On, I could rotate the knob to pre-stage the Momentary Strobe (or Momentary Maximum) and if I needed it, just hit the button and it would immediately switch to the pre-staged mode.
> 
> ...



Opps, almost missed this post.
Let me clairify. Let's say i'm in momentary, and while holding the button in, switch to strobe. It will switch, but you have to let off the button, or it will ramp. If in a USM (user selectable mode), turn to the next mode, you have to stab the button to complete the change.
Get this, if in USM (on) and you turn to momentary and push and hold the button, it will switch. Let off, your back to the pevious mode. To turn it off, go back to any of the USM's and hit the button.
A little funky. Forward clicky in one position, then reverse clicky in the others, then throw in ramping. To much thinking about going on here to change modes and which direction the button is going to be working in.


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## bluemax_1 (Feb 28, 2015)

Rick_R said:


> Opps, almost missed this post.
> Let me clairify. Let's say i'm in momentary, and while holding the button in, switch to strobe. It will switch, but you have to let off the button, or it will ramp. If in a USM (user selectable mode), turn to the next mode, you have to stab the button to complete the change.
> Get this, if in USM (on) and you turn to momentary and push and hold the button, it will switch. Let off, your back to the pevious mode. To turn it off, go back to any of the USM's and hit the button.
> A little funky. Forward clicky in one position, then reverse clicky in the others, then throw in ramping. To much thinking about going on here to change modes and which direction the button is going to be working in.



Wow. Yeah, that's too confusing especially under stress.

If they could implement my idea of the rotary knob + forward clicky with a triple/quad tap to enter programming mode, with the ability to partial press for momentary or full click for constant in all positions, I'd be perfectly happy with just 3 programmable modes.

In fact, for a tactical or LEO duty light, that would be ideal. I would set it to Maximum on one end, Strobe on the other and a low/medium in the middle. That way, it's a simple 'crank full clockwise for Maximum', or 'crank fully counterclockwise for Strobe' under stress. The low/medium I can take the extra second to select.

And folks who actually want a light this large for firefly (and the numerous folks who have no use for Tactical Strobe) can program what they prefer.

That + thicker/stronger glass and the bezel improvements you mentioned would pretty much nail it as THE Tactical light.

Since they managed to program the 3 clicks for the lockout, they should be able to reprogram that to enter the programming mode.

Besides, IIRC, I heard that the 3-click lockout drops you back in the last used mode no matter where the knob is set. That makes it less than useful.

I still prefer the half-press and turn lockout in the Scorpion. Took a little practice to be able to enter it reliably without turning on the light, but coming out of it was easy, just turn the knob to the desired setting and hit the button.

With a decent forward clicky though, there's no need for a lockout during use. I've never accidentally turned on my Quarks that were pocket carried or the Eagtac G25C2 MKii on my belt with their forward clickies.


Max

P.S. BTW, a combination of a forward clicky + rotary knob selector also solves one additional little issue with the Scorpion/Acebeam/Estrela interface.

While discussing it with some guys, the conclusion is that most of them feel that in use (disregarding programming etc.) simple is good. For that reason, most prefer a forward clicky when using Maximum.

They can pop-and-peek with the Momentary, or mash the button when they need constant. Eg. If you're using momentary and someone takes off running, they don't want to have to be concerned that their thumb slipping off the button could inadvertently leave them in the dark while running, and no one wants to have to fiddle with turning a knob to get to a constant on setting while in foot pursuit.

Being able to use Maximum in momentary OR constant with a forward clicky solves that, as opposed to having a separate standalone momentary Maximum position.


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## bluemax_1 (Feb 28, 2015)

Hmmm... If anyone from Thrunite ends up reading this, it might actually be a good idea to set it to 8-10 quick half-presses to enter programming mode.

For most folks, programming the modes is more likely to be a 'once and done' proposition. I don't think there are many folks who would want to continually reprogram the lights on the fly. Probably rare for anyone to even want to reprogram a light daily, so making it more difficult to enter programming mode is a good idea.

Although morse code isn't used much these days, if someone DID want to use the light to send a message in morse code, the letter 'S' for instance, is 3 dots = 3 quick flashes.

More rapid flashes needed (like 8 to 10) to enter programming mode would avoid accidentally triggering programming mode when trying to do something else.


Max


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## Rick_R (Mar 1, 2015)

bluemax_1 said:


> Wow. Yeah, that's too confusing especially under stress.
> 
> If they could implement my idea of the rotary knob + forward clicky with a triple/quad tap to enter programming mode, with the ability to partial press for momentary or full click for constant in all positions, I'd be perfectly happy with just 3 programmable modes.
> 
> ...




I agree with your comments/statements, and what changes to this light that would move it to a great light. Programmability will definitely solve the UI mode ‘what is where’ & intensity issues. The main issue with these ‘tactical’
lights is designers don’t give all of what you want, only parts. From people sitting at a desk, with little or no real world experience. And don’t or won’t invite comments from targeted users. The ‘Estrela’ is Ken Good’s latest light. Acebeam (the OEM) has there version (40mm head). Thrunite has there’s (with a reversed dial UI) 
Thrunite has popped up on various threads here regarding their products. But they do get reeaaal quiet if that ‘item’ has issues/problems. So it would be safe to _assume_ that they have looked at this tread (since it’s near the top of the forum now). If and what they will do with this discussion ???? 
I’m going to send them an e-mail, with what we have been discussing here lately and see what happens. They are so close to getting it right. 
 
As far as the UI, I’ve set mine up like this: Momentary/Fast strobe/Max/Med-low, set on strobe. My normal carry lights at work are: Thrunite ‘Lynx’ (Primary, in a ESP holster/carrier), Nitecore P12 (Backup, in pants pocket). 
I EDC, either a Klarus XT2C (With a 4-7’s ‘deep carry pocket clip’). Ditto setup on a Klarus XT1A.
Used the Nitecore MT26 for a long time prior to the ‘Lynx”, but its ‘two handed’ to change modes (twist head). Their SRT series you have to change hand positions to change modes (dial at head).
Have been veerryyy tempted to get both the Nitecore P20 & P10 as my standard carry pair. However, the output from either one is sub-par to the ‘Lynx’.
 
I’am going way out on a limb, and say that “a true duty/tactical flashlight”, must have as a basic setup: 1) forward clicky/momentary switch; 2) mode change, by rotational switch (side buttons at tailcap are not feasible); 3) 1k lumens @ 5500-6000k; 4) Strobe at 18-22Hz (or, 12-22Hz random rate and on/off periods)


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## bluemax_1 (Aug 25, 2015)

I haven't heard a single peep about a new/updated version of the Thrunite Lynx/Scorpion. Has anyone else?

It just seems like they decided to drop the design from their selection altogether.

To that end, I decided to pose the possibilities on the manufacturers forum of the company who I think was the one producing these types of lights, and still has a variant in their lineup. Perhaps a show of interest might help get the ball rolling?
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...s-to-produce-the-Ultimate-tactical-flashlight


Max


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## kj2 (Aug 25, 2015)

bluemax_1 said:


> I haven't heard a single peep about a new/updated version of the Thrunite Lynx/Scorpion. Has anyone else?
> 
> It just seems like they decided to drop the design from their selection altogether.
> 
> Max


Thrunite made the Lynx, after Night Reaper's approval. Basically, Thrunite copied the light.

http://www.nightreapersystems.com/handheld-illumination-systems/estrela-led-flashlight/


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## bluemax_1 (Aug 25, 2015)

When did the Estrela come to market? I think I first heard of it last year (2014. And obviously forgot it). The first page on this thread is from 2013 and the previous Scorpions came out even earlier.

The original of course, was the Gladius that came out a decade ago.


Max


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## scs (Aug 25, 2015)

bluemax_1 said:


> I haven't heard a single peep about a new/updated version of the Thrunite Lynx/Scorpion. Has anyone else?
> 
> It just seems like they decided to drop the design from their selection altogether.
> 
> ...



Is this what you were looking for: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?404340-Lynx-pre-order

The "updated" Lynx was available for sale.


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## scs (Aug 25, 2015)

kj2 said:


> Thrunite made the Lynx, after Night Reaper's approval. Basically, Thrunite copied the light.
> 
> http://www.nightreapersystems.com/handheld-illumination-systems/estrela-led-flashlight/



And who did Acebeam copy (see T10)?


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## bluemax_1 (Aug 25, 2015)

scs said:


> Is this what you were looking for: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?404340-Lynx-pre-order
> 
> The "updated" Lynx was available for sale.



Wow, thanks for that. Looks like they produced a limited run that's all gone (the last link in the series was to a page to purchase them, but it's been taken down by Thrunite).


Max


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## scs (Aug 25, 2015)

bluemax_1 said:


> Wow, thanks for that. Looks like they produced a limited run that's all gone (the last link in the series was to a page to purchase them, but it's been taken down by Thrunite).
> 
> 
> Max



I don't think you missed out on much. A better one will be along. If something is well made, liked by people, and profitable enough for the maker, it'll show up again.


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## bluemax_1 (Aug 25, 2015)

scs said:


> And who did Acebeam copy (see T10)?



If I understand things correctly, Acebeam is the consumer level retail side of the company that manufactured the Lynx for Thrunite. They began producing their own lights with slight variations in the design (reversed UI, deeper head/reflector design focused even more towards a narrower beam with greater throw than the Lynx/Scorpion).


Max


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## bluemax_1 (Aug 25, 2015)

scs said:


> I don't think you missed out on much. A better one will be along. If something is well made, liked by people, and profitable enough for the maker, it'll show up again.



Yep. Something better will always come along as technology improves and new ideas surface. Flashlights have come a LONG way in the last 15 years. I thought Thrunite was no longer making the Lynx since it hadn't been available for over a year.

It appears that it still isn't currently a production model in their regular lineup. That looked like just a limited production run.

That the Lynx hasn't been readily available for that long AND I haven't heard anything about a new model in the works was what made me start the thread with Acebeam to see if they might conceivably produce an updated model with the features I outlined.


Max


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