# Thrunite Archer V2 (XP-L V6 Cool or XP-G2 Neutral) 1A, 2A, 1C, 2C Series Overview



## selfbuilt (Apr 9, 2015)

*Warning: More pic heavy than usual. oo:*

Thrunite has sent me a complete set of samples of their new Archer v2 line, including both Cool White (CW) XP-L and Neutral White (NW) XP-G2 versions. As with the recent Neutron series, the battery configuration is identified in the model number (i.e. 1A is 1xAA, 2C is 2xCR123A, etc.). 

I have on hand for this review the Archer 1A CW/NW, 2A CW/NW, 1C CW/NW, and 2C (CW, as there seems to be no NW version as yet). :sweat:











As usual, I will start with a description and overview of the common build, user interface and circuit functions. I will then provide detailed testing and comparison of each model relative to its respective peer groups. To keep the review size down, I will just use representative build pictures from among the different models. But there is no way around it – this is going to be a long one. Buckle up … 

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).

*Common Archer v2 Series Specs*

LED: CREE XP-L V6 (Cool White - CW) or XP-G2 (Neutral White - NW)
Upgraded version of the Archer with more user-friendly UI and updated LED.
Added side switch for easy operation.
Five modes: firefly, low, medium, high and strobe.
Momentary “forward clicky” tactical switch.
Stainless steel strike bezel for defense and emergency applications.
Reversed polarity protection system prevents damage to the light.
Smooth peel reflector for a high quality beam.
Ultra clear tempered glass lens with anti-reflective coating.
Aircraft grade aluminum body structure with tactical knurling for firm grip.
Premium type III hard anodized anti-abrasive finish.
U shape groove at the tail for easy activation as well as preventing accidentally activation.
Reversible and removable stainless steel pocket clip with titanium coating for durability.
Memory function to set any mode (except for strobe) for immediate use.
Impact resistant: 2 meters.
Waterproof to IPX-8 Standard (1.5meters)
Accessories: pocket clip, spare O ring, lanyard
*1A Specs*

CW Modes & Run-time: Firefly:0.055lumen(408hours); Low:17lumen(22hours); Medium:75lumen(5hours); High:180lumen(115minutes); Strobe:180lumen(3.5hours).
NW Modes & Run-time: Firefly:0.42lumens(408hours); Low:15 lumens(22hours); Medium:70 lumens(5hours); High:175 lumens(115minutes); Strobe:175 lumens(3.5hours).
Working voltage: 0.9v to 4.2v.
Battery: 1 AA or 14500 battery (not included).
CW Max beam distance: 71 meters.
CW Peak beam intensity: 1261cd.
NW Max beam distance: 97 meters.
NW Peak beam intensity: 2400cd.
Weight: 60g without battery.
Dimensions: 110mm in length, 23mm bezel diameter.
MSRP: $30 (NW), $37 (CW)
*2A Specs*

CW Modes & Run-time: Firefly:0.055lumen(672 hours); Low:17lumen(96 hours); Medium:75lumen(11 hours); High:450lumen(100 minutes); Strobe:450lumen(140 minutes).
NW Modes & Run-time: Firefly:0.11lumens(672 hours); Low:15lumens(96 hours); Medium:69lumens(11 hours); High:430lumens(100 minutes); Strobe:430lumens(140 minutes).
Working voltage: 0.9v to 4.2v
Battery: 2 AA batteries (not included).
CW Max beam distance: 130 meters.
CW Peak beam intensity: 4232 cd.
NW Max beam distance: 161 meters.
NW Peak beam intensity: 6560cd.
Weight: 75g without battery.
Dimensions: 160mm in length, 23mm bezel diameter.
MSRP: $30 (NW), $40 (CW)
*1C Specs*

CW Modes & Run-time: Firefly: 0.055lumen(168 hours); Low:17lumen(11 hours); Medium:75lumen(200 minutes); High:500lumen(40 minutes); Strobe:500lumen(50 minutes).
NW Modes & Run-time: Firefly: 0.17lumens(168 hours); Low:17lumens(11 hours); Medium:71lumens(200 minutes); High:418lumens(40 minutes); Strobe:418lumens(50 minutes).
Working voltage: 0.9v to 4.2v.
Battery: 1 CR123 or 16340 battery (not included).
CW Max beam distance: 124 meters.
CW Peak beam intensity: 3870cd.
NW Max beam distance: 158 meters.
NW Peak beam intensity: 6310cd.
Weight: 52g without battery.
Dimensions: 94mm in length, 23mm bezel diameter.
MSRP: $30 (NW), $37 (CW)
*2C Specs*

CW Modes & Run-time: Firefly: Firefly: 0.26 lumens(69 days); Low: 14 lumens(128 hours); Medium: 184 lumens(11 hours); High: 840 lumens(125 minutes); Strobe: 840 lumens(340 minutes).
Working voltage: 2.6-8.4V.
Battery: 2 CR123 or 16340 batteries or one 18560 battery.(not included).
CW Max beam distance: 124 meters.
CW Peak beam intensity: 3870cd.
WEIGHT: 66g without battery.
Dimensions: 128mm in length, 24mm bezel diameter.
MSRP: $40 (CW)






Packaging is the same for all models, and includes a hard cardboard box with packing foam (a sticker on box indicates cool white or neutral white). Inside, you will find the light (with pocket clip installed), extra o-rings, extra boot switch cover, basic wrist lanyard, and manual.

Note that Thrunite has recently updated their warranty policy for all lights, available here.

As with other series reviews, I will start off with a discussion of the common physical build and user interface/circuit functions. I will then provide separately (by model) beamshots, testing measures and runtimes.

*Common Build*

Here are a series of general pics:

Archer 1A:





























Archer 2A:









Archer 1C:





Archer 2C:













Physically, the new Archer lights are very similar to one another. Indeed, it is just the 2C that has a wider body (to accommodate the thicker 18650 cells) – the heads look the same across all models. All lights feature a classic tailcap clicky-switch for on/off, as well as side electronic switch for mode changing. 

All lights have knurling, which is of reasonable aggressiveness, and glossy black anodizing. Hand feel is good, and the included clips help with grip (and serve as anti-roll). 

The tail-switch is a typical forward clicky switch, with a raised surround (that serves as a lanyard attachment point and allows stable tailstanding). The side-mounted electronic switch protrudes slightly, and has a definite "click" (with typical traverse). The center of the switch is clear, but there doesn't seem to be an LED indicator underneath (as there is on some of the other recent Thrunites). 

The only difference inside the lights is on positive contact board in the head – the 1A, 1C and 2A models have the classic reverse-polarity feature seen on many AA lights (i.e., only small button top can be used). The 2C lacks this feature, and so will take flat-top cells just fine. 

Screw threads are square-cut and anodized, allowing lock-out on all models. Oddly, there are some differences in the tail threading, and only the 1A and 2A have interchangeable tailcaps.


















The new Archers use a crenelated bezel design, in stainless steel. Reflectors are smooth finish, and appear to be identical across models and emitter. Centering of the emitters was reasonably good on samples (although not perfect). The Cool White versions come with the XP-L emitter, the Neutral Whites the XP-G2.

Scroll down for specific beamshot comparisons for each model/battery config. :wave:

*Common User Interface*

Turn the lights on/off by the physical tail switch. Switch is a forward clicky, so press and hold for momentary on, click for locked on.

You change modes by use of the side electronic switch. Click (i.e., rapid press release) to advance through modes. Mode sequence is Firefly > Lo > Med > Hi. There is a "hidden" Strobe mode accessible by a press-and-hold of the side switch.

The light has mode memory for the constant output modes, and retains the last level set when you turn it off/on (i.e., no memory for Strobe).

*Video*: 

For information on the lights, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:



As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

As an aside, if you want to get an instant notification for every new review that I post here on CPF, you can subscribe to my YouTube channel (the vids go public at the same time). Just mouse over my logo watermark on the video for the subscribe feature to open up. You may need to tap or click, depending on the platform you are using to watch. :wave: 

*PWM/Strobe*

The new Archer v2 series lights are current-controlled on all modes – there is no indication of pulse width modulation or circuit noise on any constant-output mode, on any model. :thumbsup:






Strobe is a consistent 12.8 Hz on all models, although there is variation in how the oscilloscope traces looks:

Archer 1A CW:





Archer 2A NW:





Archer 1C CW:





Archer 2C:





None of this is visible to the naked eye – in all cases, strobe is a consistent "fast" strobe across this series.

*No Standby Drain*

Since the Archers all have a physical clicky switch, there is no standby drain when the lights are off.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Charts:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).

--------------

Individual Comparisons

--------------

*Archer 1A – 1xAA/14500*













From left to right: Panasonic Eneloop Pro NiMH AA; Thrunite Archer 1A, Olight S15R; Zebralight SC52; Sklihunt DS15; Fenix LD12; Armytek A1.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Thrunite Archer 1A v2 CW*: Weight: 66.9g, Length: 109.6mm, Width: 23.1mm
*Thrunite Archer 1A v2 NW*: Weight: 66.8g, Length: 109.3mm, Width: 23.0mm
*Thrunite Neutron 2A 2014 (1xAA form)*: Weight: 57.6g, Length: 95.6mm, Width (bezel): 25.6mm
*Thrunite T10S*: Weight: 60.9g; Length: 93.7mm, Width (bezel): 17.8mm, Width (widest): 18.7mm

*Fenix LD12*: Weight: 52.3g, Length: 99.9mm, Width (bezel): 21.6mm
*Nitecore MT1A*: Weight: 54.6g, Length: 104.6mm, Width (bezel): 22.7mm
*Nitecore SENS AA*: Weight: 26.1g, Length: 82.7mm, Width (bezel): 19.8mm
*Olight S15R*: Weight: 47.6g (69.2g with Olight 14500), Length: 89.6mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Olight S15*: Weight: 46.4g, Length: 87.0mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*L3 Illumination L10*: Weight: 20.7g, Length: 79.4mm, Width (bezel): 17.1mm
*Lumintop ED15*: Weight: 59.7g, Length: 100.2, Width (bezel): 21.9mm
*Skilhunt DS15*: Weight: 52.0g, Length: 92.1mm, Width (bezel): 24.0mm
*Xeno E03:*: Weight: 48.1g, Length 96.7mm, Width (bezel): 21.5mm 
*Zebralight SC52*: Weight 39.5g, Length 79.0mm, Width (bezel): 22.6mm, Width (max) 25.4mm

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an NiMH or 14500 AA-sized batteries. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). For NW lights, a Daylight white balance (on my Canon) is used to provide a more consistent visual comparison to the CW lights.

Note that "2A 2014 1xNiMH" below refers to the Neutron 2A 2014 in 1xAA form.





























































In the interest of space, scroll down to the 1C RCR beamshots if you want to get an idea of what 1x14500 in the 1A looks like. :wave:
















































--------------

*Archer 2A – 2xAA*













From left to right: Panasonic Eneloop Pro NiMH AA; Thrunite Archer 2014, Neutron 2A 2011; Neutron 2A 2014; Eagletac D25A2; Olight S15 with extender, Olight ST25.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Thrunite Archer 2A v2 CW*: Weight: 80.0g, Length: 159mm, Width: 23.0mm
*Thrunite Archer 2A v2 NW*: Weight: 79.7g, Length: 159mm, Width: 23.1mm
*Thrunite Neutron 2A 2014 (2xAA form)*: Weight: 73.46g, Length: 146.2mm, Width (bezel): 25.5mm

*Eagletac D25A2*: Weight: 54.8g, Length 148.5mm, Width (bezel): 21.0mm
*Foursevens QAA-2 X* (Tactical tailcap): Weight: 60.1g, Length: 149.1mm, Width (bezel) 22.0mm
*Jetbeam BA20*: Weight: 70.2g, Length: 156.4mm, Width (bezel) 23.2mm
*Nitecore MT2A*: Weight: 66.9g, Length: 154.3mm, Width (bezel):22.7mm
*Nitecore EA2*: Weight: 68.9g, Length: 134.4, Width (bezel): 26.1mm
*Olight ST25*: Weight: 76.1g, Length: 152.4mm, Width (bezel): 23.0mm
*Olight S15 2xAA*: Weight: 59.2g, Length: 137.9mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Sunwayman D20A*: Weight 118.4g, Length: 102.6mm, Width (head) 20.9mm, Height (head) 35.1mm

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on 2xNiM AA (Sanyo Eneloop). Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). For CW lights, automatic white balance is used on the camera, to minimize tint differences. For NW lights, a Daylight white balance (on my Canon) is used to provide a more consistent visual comparison to the CW lights.

Note that "2A 2014" below refers to the Neutron 2A 2014 in 2xAA form.



































































































--------------

*Archer 1C – 1xCR123A/RCR*













From left to right: Rayovac CR123A; Thrunite Archer 1C; Olight S10R; Skilhunt DS10; Foursevens QTLC; Eagletac D25C; Armytek C1.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Thrunite Archer 1C v2 CW*: Weight: 59.9g, Length: 93.9mm, Width: 23.1mm
*Thrunite Archer 1C v2 NW*: Weight: 59.2g, Length: 93.9mm, Width: 23.1mm
*Thrunite Neutron 2C 2014 (1xCR123A/RCR form)*: Weight: 63.0g, Length: 87.7mm, Width (bezel): 25.5mm

*ArmyTek C1 XM-L*: Weight: 43.0g, Length: 80.2mm , With (bezel): 23.1mm
*Eagletac D25C Clicky*: Weight: 30g, Length: 76.0mm, Width (bezel): 20.0mm
*Foursevens QTLC*: Weight 36.4g, Length 84.1mm, Width (bezel) 22.1mm
*Jetbeam PC10*: Weight: 50.5g, Length: 93.6mm, Width (bezel): 22.6mm
*Lumintop ED11*: Weight: 44.1g, Length: 83.7, Width (bezel): 21.8mm
*Olight S10 (2013, XM-L2)*: Weight: 40.5g, Length: 70.8mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Skilhunt DS10*: Weight: 47.0g, Length: 76.1mm, Width (bezel): 24.0mm
*Sunwayman C10R*: Weight: 57.3g, Length: 76.2mm (no lanyard plug), 82.3mm (with plug), Width (bezel): 25.6mm, Width (head at widest part): 28.6mm

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). For NW lights, a Daylight white balance (on my Canon) is used to provide a more consistent visual comparison to the CW lights.

Note that "2C 2014" below refers to the Neutron 2C 2014 in 1xCR123A/RCR form.

1xCR123A





























































1xRCR


























































































--------------

*Archer 2C – 2xCR123A/RCR, 1x18650*













From left to right: Keeppower Protected 18650 3100mAh; Thrunite Archer 2C, Neutron 2C 2014; Olight S20R, 30R; Zebralight SC600-II, Nitecore P12

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Thrunite Archer 2C v2 CW*: Weight: 66.3g, Length: 128.1mm, Width: 23.0mm
*Thrunite Neutron 2C 2014 (2xCR123A/RCR form)*: Weight: 71.2g, Length: 117.7mm, Width (bezel): 25.5mm
*Thrunite TN12-2014*: Weight: 80.0g, Length: 140.5mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm

*Eagletac D25LC2*: Weight: 50.0g, Length: 116.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.5mm
*Eagletac G25C2-II* (stock): Weight 141.0g, Length: 150.6mm, Width: 39.6mm
*Eagletac S200C2vn (V54 mod)*: Weight: 168.7g, Length: 155.0mm, Width: 47.0mm
*Eagletac TX25C2*: Weight 93.6g, Length: 120.4mm, Width (bezel): 31.6mm
*Fenix PD35*: Weight: 82.7g, Length: 138.1mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm
*Olight M22*: Weight: 148.4g, Length: 144.8mm, Width (bezel): 41.2mm
*Nitecore P12 2015*: Weight: 88.7g, Length: 139.5mm, Width (bezel): 25.5mm
*Skilhunt DS20*: Weight: 53.8g, Length: 110.0mm, Width (bezel): 24.0mm
*V54 Sky Lumens 2*: Weight: 83.1g, Length: 119.2mm, Width (bezel): 24.0mm
*Zebralight SC600 II*: Weight 79.3g, Length: 101.8mm, Width (bezel) 29.7mm
*Zebralight SC62*: Weight: 42.3g, Length: 96.5mm, Width (bezel): 23.2mm, Width (max) 26.1mm

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). For NW lights, a Daylight white balance (on my Canon) is used to provide a more consistent visual comparison to the CW lights.

Note that "2C 2014 1x18650" below refers to the Neutron 2C 2014 on 1x18650 form.




































































































--------------

*Potential Issues*

The side switch button is fairly small, and may be hard to locate by touch alone (even though it is slightly raised).

All lights show a timed step-down from Hi after ~3.5 mins runtime (except on 1xAA batteries).

Most models are not driven as highly on max as other recent lights in their respective classes. However, they all produce a reasonable Hi level.

*Preliminary Observations*

Ok, that's a LOT of data. :sweat: 

Let me start with the physical build, since it is fairly consistent across models. Personally, I found the Neutron v2 refresh in 2014 to be a bit "plain vanilla" in styling. As such, I'm happy to see that Thrunite has kept a more traditional design for the Archer v2 update. 

While this design is not particularly novel or innovative, it has the advantage of being familiar and well thought-out (i.e., very similar to a number of Fenix and Olight lights over the years). I like the forward clicky switch (with ability to tailstand), the side switch for mode changing (with low voltage warning underneath), the decent bi-directional pocket clip, the stainless steel crenelated bezel, and the reasonable knurling. 

I like the user interface, with its separation of on/off from mode changing. The mode sequence (and level spacing) is generally good, with strobe mode "hidden" under a press-hold of the side switch.

Circuit-wise, all models show a good customized current-controlled circuit, with reasonable interface. Output/runtime efficiency is typically excellent - very similar to the Olight and Skilhunt series lights, and the earlier Neutron V2. Regulation patterns are similarly good, with most models (on most levels) showing flat stabilization. Please see the individual runtimes above for more information on the model relevant to you. :sweat:

Output levels and beam intensity are generally consistent with Thrunite specs. As a general rule, Hi output increases as you go up to higher voltage sources on any given model, but the Firefly-Med modes remain relatively unchanged. Again, please see my detailed summary tables earlier in this review, for the individual models you are interested in. 

Beam patterns are also good for the series, with a reasonable trade-off between center beam throw and spill. It is nice to see the option of the XP-G2 Neutral White or XP-L Cool White emitter on each model (except the 2C so far). There is not a big output difference on most models (on most batteries), although the NW versions to tend to be a bit throwier (thanks to the smaller emitter die). I am surprised to see how low the prices are for these lights, considering everything you are getting here (especially for the NW versions). :thumbsup:

There really isn't much to criticize here. Thrunite has done good job in providing an extensive series of lights with a consistent interface and build - but customized circuits for best performance. You also get the option of Neutral White and Cool White for each model (except the 2C at present), with a lower price point for the Neutral White version. Frankly, either tint seems to be a bargain for the various battery classes. A very nice series at an even better price - I can certainly see the new Archer series doing very well for them. :wave:

------

Archer 1A, 2A, 1C and 2C models were provided by Thrunite for review.


----------



## Ryp (Apr 9, 2015)

Thanks for the review!

2C? That light is the only one not on their website, odd.


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 9, 2015)

Ryp said:


> 2C? That light is the only one not on their website, odd.


Yes, I think that is because the final specs have not been determined yet. The 2C sample I have certainly performs well, as with the rest of the (published) series.


----------



## Ryp (Apr 9, 2015)

Looks like a good alternative to the P12-styled lights, shorter and narrower than the rest. The only thing I would have liked to see would have been an option for bezel-down carry.


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 9, 2015)

Ryp said:


> The only thing I would have liked to see would have been an option for bezel-down carry.


Well, because of the large loops, the clips all allow bi-directional attachment (granted, not as as securely bezel down). And on the 1C, you could easily reverse the orientation of the clip and still have everything fit.


----------



## brtactical (Apr 9, 2015)

What about the energy spent while off? I have heard some issues about it.


----------



## SuLyMaN (Apr 10, 2015)

God SB. All that data grinding. Surely, you must ask some paycheck from them to perform such extensive reviews  Thanks for yet another great review!


----------



## Dubois (Apr 10, 2015)

brtactical said:


> What about the energy spent while off? I have heard some issues about it.



As Selfbuilt says in the review:
*
No Standby Drain

Since the Archers all have a physical clicky switch, there is no standby drain when the lights are off. *


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 10, 2015)

brtactical said:


> What about the energy spent while off? I have heard some issues about it.


As Dubois quoted from the review, there is no standby drain in the Archer series (thanks to the physical clicky switch). It is only in lights with electronic switches (like the Neutron series) where standby drains are a potential concern. I typically measure these currents though, and report any potential issues.

:welcome:



SuLyMaN said:


> God SB. All that data grinding.


Yeah, this was a long one. :sweat: Although it saves a bit of time in the review writing to do one massive review, the bulk of the work is in the testing, analysis, and preparation of the figures and tables. This review has kept me very occupied the last couple of weeks!

Given the length, please let me know if you spot any errors or inconsistencies. It's hard to ensure the right figure always shows up in the right place ...


----------



## bladesmith3 (Apr 10, 2015)

thanks for all you do SB


----------



## gkbain (Apr 10, 2015)

Thanks SB for the big review. I know it took a lot of time. It is appreciated by many. I just ordered the 1C NW. It is a little bigger than the SC52 or the S10 I usually carry. It looks more of the size of the PC10 that I use to carry but has been confined to glove box duty. I prefer the side switch but issues arise when carrying. The SC52 is a great little light but I don't like the UI. The S10 is great for night stand use but has to be locked out when carrying. My PC10 is a little sensitive to mode switches on the only switch. The 1C may be a good compromise. Time will tell. The price is reasonably inexpensive and I have always believed that the Thrunite brand is a good value when compared to others.


----------



## scs (Apr 10, 2015)

Thrunite's current guarantee:

*Hassle Free Guarantee*​*1. **30 Days FREE RETURN/REPLACEMENT:* Any item bought from thrunite.com/ThruNite Amazon Stores can be returned to get refund within 30 days of receipt in new condition(means the intact condition for sencondary offering) with all included accessories, manuals, warranty card（if any), and combo items if you don't like it.
*Note 1: *If anything is missing, a fee of 15% of the order or higher (at our discretion) may be charged. The freight caused in return will be paid by the customer.
*Note 2:* Any item bought from thrunite.com/ThruNite Amazon Stores can be returned to get refund or replaced within 30 days of receipt if it is defective. The freight caused in replacement or return in this case will be born on thrunite.com.
*Note 3: *The customer should contact with ThruNite immediately if they misordered/changed their minds/want to change any other information when they purchase from thrunite.com/ThruNite Amazon Stores. We will check if the order can be revised or cancelled. If it is shipped out, the customers have to bear the returning fee. Please note we do NOT accept any shipping address change. If you moved, please contact the courier to direct the delivery for you.

Regarding Note 2: to me it reads that if the product is defective on arrival or becomes defective within 30 days of purchase, Thrunite will pay for BOTH return and replacement shipping. Do you guys interpret it the same way? I was under the impression that the customer would pay for return shipping, even if it was for a defective product.


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 10, 2015)

scs said:


> Regarding Note 2: to me it reads that if the product is defective on arrival or becomes defective within 30 days of purchase, Thrunite will pay for BOTH return and replacement shipping. Do you guys interpret it the same way? I was under the impression that the customer would pay for return shipping, even if it was for a defective product.


That is certainly how I read it as well. Of course, you need to request an RMA before sending it back, so they may simply tell you not to bother in that case. 

The link in the review takes you to the rest of the guarantee, for the replacement guarantee (from 30 days to 2 years) and the limited lifetime (beyond 2 years). Note that this all applies to purchases through Thrunite directly or their Amazon store.


----------



## scs (Apr 10, 2015)

Thanks, selfbuilt. At least for me, that kind of return policy provides peace of mind.:thumbsup: In fact it has just removed the biggest reservation that's been keeping me from giving Thrunite products a try.:twothumbs


----------



## Kalpn (Apr 11, 2015)

Thanks for the review! Thrunite has finally adjusted the mode sequence between the last and 2nd. It used to be 600-800 to 1000 lumens which is quite pointless.


----------



## avernite (Apr 11, 2015)

Kalpn said:


> Thanks for the review! Thrunite has finally adjusted the mode sequence between the last and 2nd. It used to be 600-800 to 1000 lumens which is quite pointless.



Yes, I'm so glad they didn't include that redundant turbo mode. I think some of their flashlights have it simply for marketing purposes (our light is brighter than the competition for a few minutes).

I have two Archer 1A V2 NW's and I can attest to their quality. They quickly became my favorite lights. Beam profile and tint are excellent. It's amazing how well they can perform on a single AA.

The Archer 2C V2 looks very promising. Here's hoping the NW version will come with an MT-G2 emitter :twothumbs


----------



## Kalpn (Apr 11, 2015)

Thrunite has just added the specs for Archer 2C V2CW.*

Specifications:*

- LED: CREE XP-L V6 LED with a lifespan of 20+ years of run time.
- Modes & Run-time: Firefly: Firefly: 0.26 lumens(69 days); Low: 14 lumens(128 hours); Medium: 184 lumens(11 hours); High: 840 lumens(125 minutes); Strobe: 840 lumens(340 minutes).
- Max output: 840 lumens using one 18650 battery.
- Max run time: 69 days (Firefly mode)
- Working voltage: 2.6-8.4V.
- Battery: 2 CR123 or 16340 batteries or one 18560 battery.(not included).
- Max beam distance: 124 meters.
- Peak beam intensity: 3870cd.
- Impact resistant: 2 meters.
- Waterproof to IPX-8 Standard (1.5meters)
- WEIGHT

: 66g without battery.
- Dimensions: 128mm in length, 24mm bezel diameter.
Accessories:
1. pocket clip
2. spare O ring
3. User's manual x1
4. Lanyardx1


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 11, 2015)

Kalpn said:


> Thanks for the review! Thrunite has finally adjusted the mode sequence between the last and 2nd. It used to be 600-800 to 1000 lumens which is quite pointless.


Yes, I made a similar point in another thread - the slightly lower max output on the Archer is not really an issue, given the decent spacing. A lot of people have queried the Hi/Turbo difference on the TN12 for example (i.e., you don't really see it once the batteries have lost some capacity).



Kalpn said:


> Thrunite has just added the specs for Archer 2C V2CW.


So they have, just updated the main post.


----------



## avernite (Apr 11, 2015)

> The center of the switch is clear, with a red LED indicator underneath (i.e., similar to some of the recent Olights).



Is there really an LED under the button? I've never seen any low voltage indication on my Archer 1A V2s. Maybe some models have it and others don't?


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 12, 2015)

avernite said:


> Is there really an LED under the button? I've never seen any low voltage indication on my Archer 1A V2s. Maybe some models have it and others don't?


You know what, I'm not not sure now. I thought I had seen that in one of the runtime tests, but I have been putting a lot lights through my lightbox recently.  I know there wasn't any sign of it for sure on the 1C, since I was looking at that light when it was nearly dead. Let me double-check the others.

EDIT: Just checked, and none of the the lights seem to have a low-voltage feature. I will edit that line in the review.


----------



## avernite (Apr 13, 2015)

Those stainless steel striker bezels. I've taken my Archer 1A V2s on some night time hikes and now I've got holes in both my front pockets. Could be an issue for people who intend to pocket-carry these lights.


----------



## gkbain (Apr 13, 2015)

Got my 1c v2 NW today from Amazon/Thrunite. I have several Thrunite lights and they have all been great. This one not so much. Opened up the package put in a RCR turned it on, went through the modes then left it on high as I do all my new lights and check the temp of the body at different times. Between 1 and 2 minutes on high the light shut down. I had to cycle the tail switch to get it to come back on. After another minute it shut down again. Replaced the RCR with another RCR and the same thing happened. Put in a CR and it worked fine. After about 3 1/2 minutes it throttled back like SB stated. I completely drained the CR and the light worked fine. Put in another freshly charged RCR and it shut down in about a minute. That was it for me. It is now boxed up to return. I have always liked Thrunite and believe I just got a bad sample and understand these things do happen. Not sure if I will order another one. The NW tint looked great. Warmer than my S10 L2 NW.


----------



## InfinitusEquitas (Apr 13, 2015)

@Selfbuilt - Can you please confirm, it looks like there is a blue O-ring underneath the glass, between the reflector and and lens?


This was an issue I took with the previous version of the Archer 1A, bought directly from Thrunite... there was no o-ring seal in the head, and the second o-ring they included was too small to put there.


----------



## scs (Apr 13, 2015)

InfinitusEquitas said:


> @Selfbuilt - Can you please confirm, it looks like there is a blue O-ring underneath the glass, between the reflector and and lens?
> 
> 
> This was an issue I took with the previous version of the Archer 1A, bought directly from Thrunite... there was no o-ring seal in the head, and the second o-ring they included was too small to put there.



Here's a good view of the blue C-ring/ U-ring.

Scroll down some.

http://blog.goo.ne.jp/corazon3/e/6a9c0c37ab02ea89718f3db13ccab0a3


----------



## scs (Apr 13, 2015)

A few more beamshots:

http://tan3ledlight.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-186.html


----------



## InfinitusEquitas (Apr 13, 2015)

scs said:


> Here's a good view of the blue C-ring/ U-ring.
> 
> Scroll down some.
> 
> http://blog.goo.ne.jp/corazon3/e/6a9c0c37ab02ea89718f3db13ccab0a3



That answers that question, thank you!

I had a very nasty exchange with them after purchasing my light, asking for an o-ring to put in there, and not getting anywhere with whoever handles it. Was an otherwise good light, but it was annoying to have to find an o-ring on my own to fit in there, and the fit was lousy.


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 14, 2015)

gkbain said:


> I have always liked Thrunite and believe I just got a bad sample and understand these things do happen. Not sure if I will order another one. The NW tint looked great.


That's too bad, hopefully it is a one-off incident. Certainly no issues with either of my Archer 1C samples. 

FYI, I showed the 1A NW around to a group of local flashlight enthusiasts last night (mainly customs fans), and they were quite impressed with the light for the price. Thrunite has done an excellent job in putting together a nice package here (including the circuit, which often suffers in some other builds).



InfinitusEquitas said:


> @Selfbuilt - Can you please confirm, it looks like there is a blue O-ring underneath the glass, between the reflector and and lens?.


Yes indeed, they were all present on my 7 samples. I remember once receiving a light from a different maker without the o-ring in the head, and it was a pain to find a replacement size. Odd that they didn't have one to ship out to you.


----------



## Javora (Apr 14, 2015)

Kalpn said:


> Thrunite has just added the specs for Archer 2C V2CW.*
> 
> - Max beam distance: 124 meters.
> - Peak beam intensity: 3870cd.
> *


*

That seems kind of low for some reason, at least with the type of batteries that's being used.*


----------



## InfinitusEquitas (Apr 14, 2015)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes indeed, they were all present on my 7 samples. I remember once receiving a light from a different maker without the o-ring in the head, and it was a pain to find a replacement size. Odd that they didn't have one to ship out to you.



Thing is, my light was directly from Thrunite, and they still would not admit to any problem even after I sent them pictures and explanation of why an o-ring is important, and that the spares they include for the tailcap are too small. Guess they finally got one complaint too many about it.


----------



## scs (Apr 14, 2015)

InfinitusEquitas said:


> Thing is, my light was directly from Thrunite, and they still would not admit to any problem even after I sent them pictures and explanation of why an o-ring is important, and that the spares they include for the tailcap are too small. Guess they finally got one complaint too many about it.



Even if the included spare o-rings had been the right diameter for the head, they would not have been an equal replacement for your missing o-ring. I think the u-shape cross section of the o-ring in the head actually wraps over the edge of the lens, top and bottom, cushioning the bottom of the bezel against the lens and perhaps even providing a better seal.

Some lights have a L-ring for the lens to sit on, and then there is an O-ring embedded into a groove on the underside of the bezel. So the lens is sandwiched/cushioned between to seals.


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 14, 2015)

Javora said:


> That seems kind of low for some reason, at least with the type of batteries that's being used.


Yes, I suspect they just copied the beam distance specs from the 1C CW without updating. It is definitely higher, as you can see in the actual measures in my review (i.e., I got 5000cd for the 1C CW, and 7200cd for the 2C CW).


----------



## gkbain (Apr 18, 2015)

Returned my 1C V2 NW that was defective. Replaced it with the 1A V2 NW. Seems to work fine and has a nice beam tint. The 1C I had must have slipped by the inspection process. I know these things happen and hasn't turned me off to Thrunite.


----------



## skoor (Apr 20, 2015)

Based on SB's review, I bought the 2AA NW Archer. But it just works intermittently, so had to sent it back. Too bad, nice light for the price, but QC seems to be an issue.


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 20, 2015)

skoor said:


> Based on SB's review, I bought the 2AA NW Archer. But it just works intermittently, so had to sent it back. Too bad, nice light for the price, but QC seems to be an issue.


That's too bad, I hope the replacement works as expected. I do wonder how they manage to sell these so cheap, given the apparent quality and performance.


----------



## scs (Apr 20, 2015)

selfbuilt said:


> That's too bad, I hope the replacement works as expected. I do wonder how they manage to sell these so cheap, given the apparent quality and performance.



Selfbuilt, how often do you receive review samples from manufacturers that had problems out of the box, were DOA, or later had problems?

If not, I wonder if some manufactuers cherry-pick perfect samples for your review.


----------



## scs (Apr 20, 2015)

Does anyone know if the 5 hour runtime on Med quoted by Thrunite was obtained using a higher capacity nimh such as the eneloop pro used in the review or just a regular 2000 mAh nimh? If the former, then the advertised performance is consistent; if the latter, it's helpful to note that particular spec is inflated.


----------



## skoor (Apr 21, 2015)

selfbuilt said:


> That's too bad, I hope the replacement works as expected. I do wonder how they manage to sell these so cheap, given the apparent quality and performance.


 Interesting, Amazon only gave a refund option (3rd party seller,but fulfilled by Amazon), so guess I will just stick with Fenix/Sunwayman lights for now, since I have never had any fail yet. If QC was better, it would give WalMart lights a run for the money. 

Update on failure: The lights gets real hot, but the led is not lit. Strange. Guess some driver failure, but does rule out just some bad contact issue.


----------



## gkbain (Apr 21, 2015)

Interesting. Counting mine there are 2 failures, that were posted, of this series since SB started this thread less than 2 weeks ago. Has something happened to Thrunite's QC? Have they gone by way of Jetbeam (RRT0se)? I am using my 1A V2 NW daily so time will tell. I have about 3 weeks left to return it. Makes me wonder if returning it would be the best move and see how they do on this thread.


----------



## scs (Apr 21, 2015)

gkbain said:


> Interesting. Counting mine there are 2 failures, that were posted, of this series since SB started this thread less than 2 weeks ago. Has something happened to Thrunite's QC? Have they gone by way of Jetbeam (RRT0se)? I am using my 1A V2 NW daily so time will tell. I have about 3 weeks left to return it. Makes me wonder if returning it would be the best move and see how they do on this thread.



There's one more. See here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...rcher-1A-V2-(NW)-stopped-working-within-hours


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 22, 2015)

scs said:


> Selfbuilt, how often do you receive review samples from manufacturers that had problems out of the box, were DOA, or later had problems? If not, I wonder if some manufactuers cherry-pick perfect samples for your review.


It happens more often that you would think!  I have had many experiences of DOA (or more commonly, rapid failure during testing). When this happens, I let the manufacturer know and they typically send a second sample for testing. I then report the failure of the first sample in the review, as part of the full disclosure.

It is of course possible that cherry-picked samples get sent to me - but given how often I experience failures, I doubt this is common. 



scs said:


> Does anyone know if the 5 hour runtime on Med quoted by Thrunite was obtained using a higher capacity nimh such as the eneloop pro used in the review or just a regular 2000 mAh nimh? If the former, then the advertised performance is consistent; if the latter, it's helpful to note that particular spec is inflated.


I haven't seen stated what source they are using, but the spec is certainly very consistent with my 2550mAh eneloop pro testing.



gkbain said:


> Interesting. Counting mine there are 2 failures, that were posted, of this series since SB started this thread less than 2 weeks ago. Has something happened to Thrunite's QC?


Well, as always, it's a question of the denominator as well as the numerator. I suspect they have sold a lot of these, so it is hard to know how well the QC compares to other brands. At this incredibly low price point, I would expect that lower QC could be a distinct possibility. But that's just speculation at this point. My samples give no indication of problems, and certainly seem to indicate that this is a remarkable quality build for the price.


----------



## gkbain (Apr 22, 2015)

Seems like I am repeating myself. My 1A V2 just got packed up for return. I hadn't tried a 14500 in it till today. Works for a few minutes then shuts down. Not a battery issue as that was the first thing I tried. Works fine on Eneloops. The 1C V2 I returned last week did the same thing. The higher voltage of a LI did not work on my samples. My failure rate is 100% on the V2 series. I will not be trying another. I'll just wait till my pre ordered ZL SC5 arrives. Hope more people have better experience with the V2 than I did.


----------



## demoteamone (Apr 23, 2015)

selfbuilt, Thanks for the Nice Review! 


Wow, I don't understand is this thread is about reviewing or What. that being said, I bought an 1A V2 CW around 1 month ago, & It work Fantastically Well! I wanted update from my Fenix LD10 x something Better & I did, just that simple. I must be the lucky guy.... because my flashlight doesn't have any problem.


----------



## Buckster76 (May 2, 2015)

great review - thanks - and I've just bought a NW 1A v2

question though - is the strobe meant to work ? I can't get it to work no matter how long I press and hold the mode button

I'm half wondering if defective unit, as twice already I've been "stuck" in max mode,with the mode button not doing anything - and taking bottom off to disconnect and then reconnect battery cured it

but strobe - I can't get to work at all

any ideas please?

nice unit otherwise though


----------



## selfbuilt (May 2, 2015)

Buckster76 said:


> question though - is the strobe meant to work ? I can't get it to work no matter how long I press and hold the mode button


That's odd. Either something is wrong with your light, or they've removed the feature. Have you tried contacting your dealer/thrunite?

And :welcome:


----------



## Berneck1 (May 2, 2015)

Buckster76 said:


> great review - thanks - and I've just bought a NW 1A v2
> 
> question though - is the strobe meant to work ? I can't get it to work no matter how long I press and hold the mode button
> 
> ...



Sounds like an issue with your mode button. It works fine on mine.


Sent from my iPad using Candlepowerforums


----------



## Nighted (May 10, 2015)

I ordered an Archer 1C V2 NW on May 1st.

Everything works as expected, including the strobe mode.

Build construction is good. The threads are nice, comparable to my Fenix lights, maybe even smoother compared to when the Fenix lights were new.
The switches seem solid and the tail clicky has a nice resistance to it but has a bit of a binding feel (only when slowly moving the switch) that I think will be gone after some use.

The clip is great, lots of retention. Clips on the brim of my hat very solidly. I'm happy about that because I can imagine that coming in very handy.
Knurling and anodizing are as good as any other light I've seen.

I like the neutral white but can't say yet if I have a preference between this and cool white. At first I was not sure if I liked it at all as it was not what I've been used to using for the last 6 years, but was surprised how quickly I 180'd to liking it. Literally the same day I got it.

I liked the looks of the light too, which is important to me. Didn't really like the previous Thrunite models and there are a few newer ones that don't do anything for me aesthetically either.

I should have ordered a cool white at the same time for comparison. Will order more definitely. For the price you can't go wrong and it's no loss if you don't like it. Most people would be shocked and awed by these lights and would be happy to have them gifted.


----------



## js82 (May 11, 2015)

Hi Selfbuilt,

Does swapping the LED for the A1 appear difficult to do? I'm looking to get a nice and cheap forward clicky and this seems like a good candidate host.

Thanks


----------



## selfbuilt (May 12, 2015)

js82 said:


> Does swapping the LED for the A1 appear difficult to do? I'm looking to get a nice and cheap forward clicky and this seems like a good candidate host.


Well, a simple emitter swap should be easy enough (given the screw-on bezel). Don't know how easy it would be to access the circuit - probably about the same level of difficulty as most lights of this class.


----------



## js82 (May 12, 2015)

Thanks Selfbuilt! Just wanna change the emitter along with the base plate.


----------



## gclyn (Jun 3, 2015)

I purchased the Archer 2C V2 a few weeks ago...so far so good...no problems with mine. I really like the feel and look of the Archer series. Too bad some members are having problems. I buy from Amazon in case of a defect, as the returns are easy. 

As for other light brands, I have had failures with Fenix, Sunwayman, Jetbeam and Zebra...I gave them all a second chance; however, at those price points, it's hard to feel good when you get a lemon.


----------



## Nighted (Jul 4, 2015)

Not even 2 months in and having problems with mine. Well, probably started about 2-3 weeks ago. Seems to have something to do with the emitter assembly.

Sometimes I'll click the tail switch and it won't turn on. Even shaking the light can cause the light to flicker and go out, then just turning the light will light up the emitter again.

I heard the stories about the unreliability of these lights and decided to give Thrunite a chance. I don't think I'd want a Thrunite in an emergency situation.

I may try another, or get a refund (if possible) but I don't think I'll bother buying another Thrunite product considering how many stories I've heard and keep hearing. I'll spend the extra money and get something that I know I can trust.

After just signing into my account on Thrunite's website, I noticed that all the old reviews for the Archer V2 1C lights have been removed. Hmmm...
Also, there seems to be 3 options, repair, replace, and store credit.


----------



## Javora (Jul 4, 2015)

It sounds like the retaining piece in the tail cap has come loose. If you remove the tail cap and look at the spring, you will see two indentations on either side. Take something that will stick into those indentations (paperclip, hairpin, etc.) and tighten it by turning the assembly piece clockwise. See if that fixes the problem. Hope this helps.


----------



## Nighted (Jul 4, 2015)

Javora said:


> It sounds like the retaining piece in the tail cap has come loose. If you remove the tail cap and look at the spring, you will see two indentations on either side. Take something that will stick into those indentations (paperclip, hairpin, etc.) and tighten it by turning the assembly piece clockwise. See if that fixes the problem. Hope this helps.



Great suggestion but not the problem. Oh, and the retention ring inside the tail cap has a reverse thread. 

I'm certain it's the emitter assembly and started after I received the light and tightened down the bezel which was not screwed on all the way. I haven't opened it up but I would assume there is some sloppy soldering going on in there.

From what I've seen so far the guts/circuits are no where near the same quality as other manufacturers.


----------



## Javora (Jul 5, 2015)

That's too bad, that fixed my light when it did that. You do bring up a good point that I would like to see in reviews and that is the quality of the circuitry and wiring in any given light. Maybe even rate the different companies based on how well they are put together.


----------



## Kudzu (Jul 28, 2015)

I'm also having reliability problems with my 1A V2 CW. During my testing at home it worked fine on Eneloops, but a month into an extended trip abroad it stopped liking them. 

It will turn on and switch modes with an Eneloop, but when I turn it off, nine times out of ten it won't turn back on. I've tried four different cells in various states of charge, and get similar results. 

If I take off the tailcap and short across the tube and negative terminal with a pair of tweezers, it will work with the rejected cells, so it seems to be a tailcap control issue. The ring is tight. 

It works fine with alkalines, but we all know how we feel about that. Thrunite has agreed to replace it, and I had a good customer service experience, but I won't be taking one overseas again.


----------



## scs (Jul 28, 2015)

Kudzu said:


> I'm also having reliability problems with my 1A V2 CW. During my testing at home it worked fine on Eneloops, but a month into an extended trip abroad it stopped liking them.
> 
> It will turn on and switch modes with an Eneloop, but when I turn it off, nine times out of ten it won't turn back on. I've tried four different cells in various states of charge, and get similar results.
> 
> ...



And they've raised their prices...


----------



## selfbuilt (Jul 28, 2015)

Kudzu said:


> If I take off the tailcap and short across the tube and negative terminal with a pair of tweezers, it will work with the rejected cells, so it seems to be a tailcap control issue. The ring is tight.
> It works fine with alkalines, but we all know how we feel about that. Thrunite has agreed to replace it, and I had a good customer service experience, but I won't be taking one overseas again.


That is really odd that it happens (and only on eneloops). As you describe it though, the problem would have to be inside the tailcap (likely something causing increased resistance). I would take thurnite up on the replacement offer. Otherwise, a disassemble and thorough clean of the tailcap internals could help. I do remember one unusual case from a few years ago where Fenix had trouble with a type of o-ring that was partially conductive (made worse by the lube, which was also a partial conductor). :shrug:


----------



## Kudzu (Aug 1, 2015)

> Otherwise, a disassemble and thorough clean of the tailcap internals could help.



That did help, thanks! I had some spare time today and pulled everything apart. The first thing I noticed was some really bad threading on the reverse-threaded retaining ring. It's badly gouged in a few spots.

Then I ran my finger around the threads on the inside of the t̶u̶b̶e̶ tailcap, and it came out covered in (what I assume are) aluminum particles. I wiped everything down with an alcohol swab, which also came out filthy. The light seems to work now. I haven't been able to reproduce the failure that previously I could induce 90% of the time. 

I'll update if anything changes.


----------



## reppans (Aug 7, 2015)

*Thrunite Archer V2 (XP-L V6 Cool or XP-G2 Neutral) 1A, 2A, 1C, 2C Series Over...*

Selfbuilt, your output/runtime graphs (for the higher modes) and estimated lumen charts (across all modes/batteries) are very helpful to users and I think go a long way toward keeping manufacturers reasonably honest on their marketing specs. The one big hole for objectively covering all the test dimensions are runtime tests across the lower modes. 

While it is, of course, way too much work to actually run these tests, do you think it would be worthwhile to provide a simple tailcap current measurement chart for those lower modes that you do not test for otherwise? It would only require a few extra minutes of your time and would go a long way in the completeness of your review. 

FWIW, after running many side-by-side output/runtime tests on moonlight and lows (which I use most), I have personally come to find that tail cap current measurements are quite accurate for well regulated lights.... certainly enough so, that I will no longer be doing runtime tests on low lows myself.

As one example, Thrunite is claiming ~800 lumen-hours per AA on low here.... (again):


selfbuilt said:


> *2A Specs*
> 
> CW Modes & Run-time: Firefly:0.055lumen(672 hours); *Low:17lumen(96 hours)*; Medium:75lumen(11 hours); High:450lumen(100 minutes); Strobe:450lumen(140 minutes).





TN also once claimed ~800 lumen-hour per AA spec is their Neutron 2A V2 (11 lms for 72 hrs for 1AA, as per your review and my manual), but my runtime tests and tailcap measurements show it to be less than _half_ that (which is still very good efficiency). TN has subsequently amended that spec, along with it's 1 month/AA firefly spec - although, the new FF spec still seems overstated, by multiples, based on my sample's 20ma/1Eneloop tailcap reading (which is not efficient).

I had once assumed that a light's efficiency on the higher modes would also translated to efficiency across the lower modes.... but that is not true.


----------



## selfbuilt (Aug 7, 2015)

*Re: Thrunite Archer V2 (XP-L V6 Cool or XP-G2 Neutral) 1A, 2A, 1C, 2C Series Over...*



reppans said:


> While it is, of course, way too much work to actually run these tests, do you think it would be worthwhile to provide a simple tailcap current measurement chart for those lower modes that you do not test for otherwise? It would only require a few extra minutes of your time and would go a long way in the completeness of your review.


There are a number problem here, I'm afraid. First off, not all lights have easy access the lowest modes from strandby/off. Even just doing standby mode testing, I have burnt out more than a couple of DMM uA ports over the years by accidentally slipping with my leads and accessing a higher current draw mode. Even with fuses, I find this typically toasts a DMM's uA port. If I tried to actually routinely measure lower output modes as well, I'm sure I'd go through them even faster! You would also really need to use bypasses and shunts to get around high mode sequence issues, which I'm afraid is bit beyond my electrical skill set.

More generally though, I worry about the ability to extrapolate from lights that use different types output regulation. It is reassuring to hear that you are finding good correlations, but I know there are a lot of pitfalls. For example, PWM-controlled lights are particularly known to be difficult for DMMs to accurately measure (depending on the DMM, and the PWM frequency). But even current controlled lights could vary depending on the regulation pattern, battery source, etc. Here again, best thing would be to have an external power source to directly interrogate (as HKJ does). I'm afraid beyond my experience or resources - you are going to have to rely on others to do current draw measures of lights you are interested in.


----------



## reppans (Aug 7, 2015)

*Thrunite Archer V2 (XP-L V6 Cool or XP-G2 Neutral) 1A, 2A, 1C, 2C Series Over...*

OK...... thanks for considering.


----------



## Tre_Asay (Oct 29, 2015)

*Re: Thrunite Archer V2 (XP-L V6 Cool or XP-G2 Neutral) 1A, 2A, 1C, 2C Series Over...*

it looks like thrunite has taken the listing for the 2C down, anyone know why?
http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-archer-2c-v2-cw/


----------

