# The CPF Flashaholic Tips and Tricks Thread



## more_vampires (Aug 27, 2015)

Hey everyone!

In this thread: We share and discuss tips and tricks involving our lights. You know the type, the little things that set us apart as the top 2% of flashlight users worldwide.

Hacks are always welcome!

I'll start with a couple.

Improvised ceiling bounce headlamp:
Last night, I was playing with flashlights with my girlfriend with the lights out. I improvised a ceiling bounce headlamp by strapping a Pak-Lite Super 9v to her pony tail with her hair tie with the light shining towards the white ceiling. It worked like a charm. Wrap with a bit of plastic shopping bag to further diffuse the light and go fully night adapted vision.







Improvised wire:
A sheet of aluminum foil cut into strips, then twisted. If the strips run down the length of the sheet, the improvised wire can be as long as the roll.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_resistivity_and_conductivity
Aluminum has a touch more than half of the conductivity of copper when used as a wire. This can be overcome by simply using a thicker twist of the stuff. Using aluminum foil as wire will cause some of the voltage of the circuit to be dropped across the wire, more so than copper. Even so, it still works for low amperage hacks. It's also quite useful for improvised battery setups. One of my favorite budget mods involves a $1.50 Rayovac AAx2 plastic host and aluminum foil. I wrap strips of the foil around and around a P60 reflector to shim it to the light head. I then squash the foil away from the pill to give a nice flat lip for the switch probe to engage. This also permits easy swap of the pill for further play. In a pinch, I can scavenge some of the foil from the head to hack the P60 to virtually any battery less than 18v. Power tools, automotive, etc.




Improvised tail-stand of non-tailstanding lights:
Place the light in a drinking glass for ceiling bounce.

Excellent improvised contact cleaner:
A pink pencil eraser. It's quite gentle and doesn't damage platings. Follow up with a contact grease such as No-ox-id.

A word of caution when receiving a new light:
Check carefully inside the light for metal whiskers left over from the build process. I never thought to check until someone mentioned it here. I went to a suspect budget light and found one. It was a problem, a short, waiting to happen until I picked it out with a dental hook. Safety first, attention to detail. Buy cheap and this might be something you face.

Quick testing of the vampire status of a light:
I like to keep matched sets of alkalines in various states of decay. It's extremely useful for quick testing of how low a light can drain and still function. I barely use them for more than a couple of seconds. My favorite set is a pair of Sony alkies with a combined voltage of .98. If an AAx2 light cannot power up with these, then it's not a vampire.

Jammed mechanical switch from dropping the light:
Sometimes when you drop a light, the switch jams. Light won't turn on or stays lit. You might not have to take it apart, start hitting the switch repeatedly and gradually increase the force used. This might be all it takes to return to full operation.


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## Zeruel (Aug 27, 2015)

Here are some.


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## more_vampires (Aug 27, 2015)

More the merrier! 

Fixing flashlight rattle:
"Shimming the stack." Wrap plastic wrap or paper around the battery or battery stack. Try to slide it in, if not then tear off a bit and try again. This gives the light a far more "solid feel." Subconsciously, it makes people think the light is higher quality because most non-flashies are accustomed to battery rattle.

Battery rattle can cause undesired operation in lights with a lot of batteries in series. In my Solarforce Gladiator 18650x4 series P60 host, the dropin will change modes due to the brief circuit interruption when you swing it around like a light saber. Shimming the stack fixes this. Tape at the battery junctions also works.

Carrying electrical tape on your flashlight:
Wrap a bunch of tape around your flashlight in a spot you like. This can also give you something to grab on and make drawing the light easier. You might need the electrical tape for hacking. 

Electrical tape as a lockout on a twisty light with no lockout:
Wrap a turn of tape around the junction of body and head. You can leave a battery in there and now don't have to worry about accidental on. Also, this increases water resistance.

Improvised lockout of a light with batteries still in it:
Place a piece of plastic, paper, cardboard between battery and spring.

Preventing accidental on with a twisty light:
A bit of heat shrink tubing at the junction of body and head of the light and then heated "just so" prevents accidental on of a twisty. I like to heat the tubing more on the body of the light and leave it looser on the head to facilitate battery change.

Flashlight as carry handle:
Comfortably carry several plastic grocery bags by placing the light through the handles, grab the light and save your fingers. Much more comfortable.

Waterproofing a non-waterproof light:
A condom placed over the light temporarily waterproofs a non-waterproof light. Depending on the color of the latex, this is also an improvised diffuser/light filter.

Firemaking with a flashlight 1:
There is firemaking tinder inside the toe of your shoe. Sock lint accumulates there. Shine a high intensity light on a ball of it for a couple minutes to dry it. Now it will take a spark! This trick, drying with a flashlight, works on wet naturally found tinder as well.

Firemaking with a flashlight 2:
Use a light with head and tail removed as a blowing straw, helpful in the first few moments of lighting a tinder nest.

Firemaking with a flashlight 3:
A Pak-lite 9v flashlight with a good hot battery can be used to start a fire. Scrub the terminals of the battery across fine steel wool, this will light it and in turn light the tinder nest.

Firemaking with a flashlight 4:
Shorting a resistor can light a fire.


Firemaking with a flashlight 5:
Use the reflector!


Firemaking with a flashlight 6:
Spy 007 at 3.3 amps with a pair of aspheric lenses in a custom head. They used to say we would never start a fire with an led, that an incan is required. Not anymore, friends!  Big props to that flashaholic! :twothumbs


Improvised hand warmer:
High intensity lights double as excellent hand warmers.

"Breaking out" a flashlight head:
With the light head removed, place the bare end of a wire against the threads. Cut a small rectangle of stiff plastic, place inside the light head to help make contact. A ball of aluminum foil makes the center contact, simply stuff the other wire into the foil ball. Now the world of battery hacking is open! 

Some thoughts on battery hacking:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...vise-adapt-overcome&highlight=battery+hacking


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## archimedes (Aug 27, 2015)

Ok ... bottled water cap = ( 1" ) bezel diffuser


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## more_vampires (Aug 27, 2015)

Scratch prevention on your storage box of flashlights:
Place each light inside a sock, also makes it less obvious what it is. 

Cheap double-flashlight holsters:
Double pistol magazine holsters.

Cheap 5-light holster for small lights:
12 gauge shotshell belt pouch.

Stop dropping your EDC light:
Hit the search engines for a gadget called a "gear retractor." It's a spring loaded coil of cord or cable that clips to your belt (or wherever.) Pulling the light extends the cord, letting go lets the light fly back to your belt. This also helps prevent loss and increases rapid access. This is superior to a simple "dummy cord."

Armoring a beater light:
3M aerosol spray rubber undercoating. Clean and degrease the light first or it won't stick. Mask off threads with masking tape. Stuff a bit of cloth inside the light head to protect those threads. Mask over the lens. A full strip disassembly makes this easier.

When allowed to fully cure, this stuff is tough. This also "restores" the appearance of a beater light that has been well.... beaten up.

Carrying cordage on your flashlight:
Using techniques from the art of "Macrame," you wind cord around your light in a way that it doesn't slide off. This increases grip, as well as customizing the appearance of your light. A quick web search for macrame will reveal many different methods.

"No man, that's my light... the one with the pink knot work on it." 

WarRaven's Spill Killer for Fenix PD35 and others:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?405963-RavensEye&p=4725897

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...little-spill&p=4722535&viewfull=1#post4722535



archimedes said:


> Ok ... bottled water cap = ( 1" ) bezel diffuser


 Love that one, 1" is very super common!


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## more_vampires (Aug 27, 2015)

Intro to battery hacking: http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AA-Batteries-for-AAA-Flashlight/step2/Extended-Battery-Pack/

Budget incan overdrive: http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-$200-"tactical"-flashlight-for-about-$15/

Homemade Paklite: http://www.survivalistboards.com/showthread.php?t=254761

Battery hacking AAAx3 to lion: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...king-3AAA-lights-flashaholic-worthy-the-22600

Extended runtime hack, forever minimag: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?345695-Mini-Mag-Lite-Forever-LED-mod

Extended runtime hack, budget light. (pics are dead, info still legit): http://kissurvival.com/a-1000-hour-5-led-flashlight/

Joule Thief and the Vampire Light (lol) : http://makezine.com/projects/vampire-flashlight/

Why "flat regulation" and constant brightness aren't always the best wrt runtime: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?122326-Photon-Freedom-Microlight-Runtime

What happens at low voltage in alkaline batteries, by HKJ: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...2-Energy-at-low-voltage-in-alkaline-batteries

Hacking solar garden lights:


Note on cutting open batteries, the following do not always contain the same thing:
Cutting open A23 batteries: http://www.instructables.com/id/12-Volt-Battery-Hack!-You_ll-be-Surprised.../

Cutting open 9v batteries: http://www.instructables.com/id/how-to-open-a-9v-battery/

Cutting open 6v lantern batteries:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoTeMEXZfXs


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## more_vampires (Aug 27, 2015)

What is "reverse charge" and why is it bad?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rechargeable_battery#Damage_from_cell_reversal


> *Damage from cell reversal*
> 
> Subjecting a discharged cell to a current in the direction which tends to discharge it further to the point the positive and negative terminals switch polarity causes a condition called cell reversal. Generally, pushing current through a discharged cell in this way causes undesirable and irreversible chemical reactions to occur, resulting in permanent damage to the cell. Cell reversal can occur under a number of circumstances, the two most common being:
> 
> ...



In a system with high current capable batteries, cell reversal leads to smoke and fire. This is why we check our batteries before and after charging. We are looking for problems before we load up and hit the button.



> When a battery made of several cells connected in series is deeply discharged.


This is a problem, we must avoid this scenario at all costs. A high current 18650, such as the Sony VTC5, can dump lots and lots of amps very quickly.

This is why we don't mix batteries.
DON'T MIX BATTERIES: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?407059-Mix-Batteries

What happens when you don't have a matched set:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?262234-TK-Monster-Explosion

How to use a multimeter, basics: http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Multimeter

Lithium ion battery safety overview: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/lithium_ion_safety_concerns


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## more_vampires (Aug 27, 2015)

What is CRI and CCT? Why are they important? http://www.elementalled.com/academy/blog/led-art/why-is-cri-important/

Color Temperature (CCT): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature#Correlated_color_temperature

Color Rendering Index (CRI): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_rendering_index


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## ForrestChump (Aug 27, 2015)

more_vampires said:


> Hey everyone!
> 
> 
> Improvised ceiling bounce headlamp:
> Last night, I was playing with flashlights with my girlfriend with the lights out. *I improvised a ceiling bounce headlamp by strapping a Pak-Lite Super 9v to her pony tail with her hair tie with the light shining towards the white ceiling*. It worked like a charm. *Wrap with a bit of plastic shopping bag to further diffuse the light and go fully night adapted vision.*






You got to start watching what you post. You're gonna end up in a padded room.


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## more_vampires (Aug 27, 2015)

Oh come on! I was proud!  I was turning my girlfriend to the Dark Side!

Play with flashlights with your girlfriend and she sees the value in them. She doesn't even complain anymore.

Now THAT is a helpful flashaholic tip! Figure out what flashlights she wants and then give them to her.


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## Lynx_Arc (Aug 27, 2015)

Here is a few tips of my own.

Fingernail emery boards can be used to clean contacts on flashlights.
If you have a long tube flashlight with a corroded contact that you can't take apart try putting a pencil with eraser on it in a drill chuck at slow speed and polish it.
For storing batteries in devices that drain them slowly clear plastic from packages can be cut in strips and inserted between a contact or between batteries. Make sure and cut the strips long enough to bend over so you can easily see them and pull them out. 
A cheap way to use AAs in a D cell device is to get pipe insulation and cut it. You may need to cut the side off some if it wraps around too much. You can use metal caps that are for axles if needed to adjust the length or for springs with large coils that won't contact the smaller diameter battery.

Night table tail standing mount trick. Go to a store that sells plumbing supplies taking your light with you and look through all the PVC fittings till you find on that your light slides in and out of. Some times you can find end caps or adapters. You can then buy poster putty and use that to stick the cap to the surface of your night stand and then turn on the light and stick it in the mount.

If you want to hang your light insulated solid house wire is good to use as you can bend it easily and if a large enough diameter is used it can even stick out to hold the light away from a surface. If you have ceiling vents you can bend a piece to make a hook to hang a flashlight on or two hooks to cradle one to point at a wall, I've used house wire to make a hair dryer hook in the bathroom attached near the end of a towel rod. 

You can use opaque containers turn them upside down on top of a table and set a flashlight face down on top of them to make a lantern out of it or if you find one the right size you can attach one as a diffuser wand. You can also use a piece of paper on top of a tail standing light to diffuse light some and thicker paper or multiple layers of paper can dim the light down to a lower level.

For a keychain carry light attach a post it note on your battery inside of it so if you lose it someone who opens it will have your phone number to call to get your light back to you (you hope). If you have a twisty light that loosens up too easily try teflon tape on the threads several wraps of it can keep the light from falling apart on you.


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## more_vampires (Aug 27, 2015)

Great stuff, Lynx_arc!

Cool video: tuber CrazyRussianHacker shows us how light hacking is done.

Included topics: fire from gum wrapper and battery, downgrading lights, improvised lights. Other vids on that playlist include butter lamps, cig lighter hacks, battery harvesting. I give him 4.5 stars out of 5. 

All his videos are crazy, he's even got a slow mo video of opening a beer bottle with a chainsaw.

Next up we have hacking a cordless drill into a hand crank genny: 
This guy is having way too much fun.


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## Flashy808 (Aug 30, 2015)

Tip for a make-shift ceiling-bounce: If you don't have a ceiling when you want to ceiling-bounce or you just want some all-around flood all you have to do is get your flashlight and point it up towards the sky then put your hand about 20cm (depending on your needs, and light) above the light with the light pointing at your hand and turn it on. (preferably on something not overly bright otherwise your hands will get really hot) The light will just bounce off your hand and provide all around flood. 
If your using a key-chain light you could almost use one finger. Also if you want to direct some floody light towards one particular area you could put you hand diagonally above the light so the light bounces off your hand and over to the desired location; not just down. (Your hand kind of works like a mirror)

& yes that guy is having way too much fun... 

Always wanted to find a thread like this. Thanks for starting this more_vamps!


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## KITROBASKIN (Aug 30, 2015)

Probably more than a few of us here at CandlePowerForums like to be prepared while out and about. A flood type of flashlight need not be very big if it is unlikely runtime will be very extensive, so we carry one of those. Then, having a single 18650 powered, general purpose light with decent throw can come in handy, so we carry one of those. And if we are going out at night where longer distances are involved, well then we'll have a dedicated thrower on our person.
Now here's the tip: Using both the general purpose in one hand and the dedicated thrower in the other hand will yield even more throw when shined on the target. Ta Dah!


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## matt4350 (Aug 31, 2015)

ForrestChump said:


> You got to start watching what you post. You're gonna end up in a padded room.



Yup, wanna see a photo....


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## more_vampires (Aug 31, 2015)

> Improvised ceiling bounce headlamp:
> Last night, I was playing with flashlights with my girlfriend with the lights out. *I improvised a ceiling bounce headlamp by strapping a Pak-Lite Super 9v to her pony tail with her hair tie with the light shining towards the white ceiling*. It worked like a charm. *Wrap with a bit of plastic shopping bag to further diffuse the light and go fully night adapted vision.*





ForrestChump said:


> You got to start watching what you post. You're gonna end up in a padded room.





matt4350 said:


> Yup, wanna see a photo....


Lol, ok. Pics or it didn't happen?  Will update pic in post 1.



Flashy808 said:


> Always wanted to find a thread like this. Thanks for starting this more_vamps!


Hey, anytime friend! I wanted a thread like this too, couldn't really find one. Time to start it! 

Glo-toob Flash Cap (fits in place of D cell maglite tail caps.) It comes with a magnet base for when not installed on a Maglite. I stuck it to the refrigerator as a night beacon to get snacks and brew so we don't trip and hurt ourselves.  Runtimes are pretty good for a coin cell x4 light. It's useful for a pitch black flashlight, but don't expect massive outputs from a 5mmx3 cr2032x4 coin light.

Gifting of lights tip: Since we're flashaholics, set up a pile of all accessories offered for the light about to be gifted. You may be surprised at what they choose and don't choose. They might not take all the accessories.


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## more_vampires (Sep 1, 2015)

matt4350 said:


> Yup, wanna see a photo....


Post 1 updated with bare pak-lite.

...with diffuser





Before you laugh, check the beamshot:





Remember, if it works and it's stupid, then it's not stupid. Diffuser eliminates glare and makes fully night adapted vision much more comfortable.

Finding my GF in the dark is now easier than ever before!


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## D6859 (Sep 4, 2015)

more_vampires said:


> Post 1 updated with bare pak-lite.



Thanks for clearing this one 

Edit: Also thanks for starting this thread and collecting together a great load of information! I was also thinking about Selfbuilt's "Tips for effective flashlight use?" thread but you've made great effort covering many of the tips discussed there.


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## D6859 (Sep 4, 2015)

Ceiling bounce from aluminum foil: Instead of using the ceiling or your hand twist a piece of aluminum foil on its one end and tie it around your the head of your flashlight. Bend the other end over the head. If you want the light to be more focused bend the foil into the shape of a spoon (not sure if you could use actual spoon too). I used this tip when we were bbq'ing in a grillhouse that had the ceiling covered black with ash / coal and there was no chance to use the ceiling bounce. 

Balloon lantern: As I've posted before: Use a balloon to make a diffuser. This tip is by TurboBB in: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...FFUSER-IDEAS&p=3276614&viewfull=1#post3276614 : "Adjust the air in the balloon to control the light diffusion. I'd imagine if you used a long and skinny one, it'll be very close in profile to the conical diffusers but this works great for casting 360 spherical wall of light." You can find balloons with different colours. I've found yellow, red and white most useful.


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## etc (Sep 4, 2015)

Haven't seen the most useful ones:

1. In your lights with alkaline batteries, when they are dead, you can take out the batteries and hit them against concrete or asphalt or something hard to shake up the inside chemistry and get the current flowing again. You will gain an extra 10 minutes of light from an otherwise dead light, minutes which might be critical. It's free lumens. 
Same thing goes for the radios and all devices that use Alkaline AA, D, etc. cells. Smash it hard on all sides but try not to deform it so it still fits into the tube. 

2. If you are in the woods and need to make a campfire and don't have any source of fire, smashing a Lithium CR123A cell with a rock will generate a nice fire (with toxic fumes) for a few minutes you can then use to build a larger fire on. This works in all weather, in the dark and with no other equipment. The most high tech equipment you need is a few rocks. Just another nice feature of Lithiums. Not sure if the Energizer L91s work the same way but CR123A certainly does. Used cells work just fine.


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## more_vampires (Sep 4, 2015)

D6859 said:


> Balloon lantern: As I've posted before: Use a balloon to make a diffuser. This tip is by TurboBB in: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...FFUSER-IDEAS&p=3276614&viewfull=1#post3276614 : "Adjust the air in the balloon to control the light diffusion. I'd imagine if you used a long and skinny one, it'll be very close in profile to the conical diffusers but this works great for casting 360 spherical wall of light." You can find balloons with different colours. I've found yellow, red and white most useful.


I am *SO* doing this! Thanks! 



etc said:


> Haven't seen the most useful ones:
> 1. In your lights with alkaline batteries, when they are dead, you can take out the batteries and hit them against concrete or asphalt or something hard to shake up the inside chemistry and get the current flowing again.


Someone was telling me you can tell the "live or dead" status of an alkaline by testing how it bounces of something like concrete. Haven't tried it yet, but very interesting!


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## recDNA (Sep 4, 2015)

Ya that will make it leak


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## Flashy808 (Sep 4, 2015)

Wow I'm so trying that with my alkalines & hmm always wondered about using batteries to start fires so Thanks!

As for the balloon lantern how do you get the balloon to attach to the light. Also I wonder what happens when the light really heats up with the balloon on top...


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## D6859 (Sep 5, 2015)

Flashy808 said:


> As for the balloon lantern how do you get the balloon to attach to the light. Also I wonder what happens when the light really heats up with the balloon on top...



1) fill the balloon
2) twist its mouth 360 degrees so the air won't flow out
3) wear the mouth around the head of a flashlight like condom on ...
4) let the end of the balloon turn the 360 degrees back, the air shouldn't flow if the mouth is tight enough

I haven't tested the trick with flashlight over 300 lm. If the head heats really the rubber of the balloon might start to meld and the balloon might break.


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## Lynx_Arc (Sep 5, 2015)

Use cut up post it notes inside battery covers to write dates batteries were replaced and when using alkalines write on the batteries themselves the date they were put into service in the device this will give you an idea how long the batteries last in use and some cheaper batteries don't have date stamps on them.


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## Lynx_Arc (Sep 5, 2015)

D6859 said:


> 1) fill the balloon
> 2) twist its mouth 360 degrees so the air won't flow out
> 3) wear the mouth around the head of a flashlight like condom on ...
> 4) let the end of the balloon turn the 360 degrees back, the air shouldn't flow if the mouth is tight enough
> ...


You forgot number 1.5, fill the balloon with helium attach it to the flashlight and let go.... presto! ceiling "bounce".


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## D6859 (Sep 5, 2015)

Lynx_Arc said:


> Use cut up post it notes inside battery covers to write dates batteries were replaced and when using alkalines write on the batteries themselves the date they were put into service in the device this will give you an idea how long the batteries last in use and some cheaper batteries don't have date stamps on them.



You can also write your contact information on same piece of paper.


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## Flashy808 (Sep 5, 2015)

D6859 said:


> 1) fill the balloon
> 2) twist its mouth 360 degrees so the air won't flow out
> 3) wear the mouth around the head of a flashlight like condom on ...
> 4) let the end of the balloon turn the 360 degrees back, the air shouldn't flow if the mouth is tight enough
> ...





Lynx_Arc said:


> You forgot number 1.5, fill the balloon with helium attach it to the flashlight and let go.... presto! ceiling "bounce".



Oh ok I see but it might be a bit of a stretch for bigger flashlights with big heads... Yeah a true ceiling bounce Lynx_Arc!
I suppose if you use a full 900 lumen blast (expecially if focussed) it will act as a laser and heat it up so much that it pops.

Thanks!


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## recDNA (Sep 6, 2015)

One of my flashlight dealers gives out little plastic keychain flashlights with each. Order. It would be cool turn one on, put it IN the balloon, then fill with helium and let it go outdoors in the dark. Maybe get some UFO reports?


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## KeepingItLight (Sep 6, 2015)

recDNA said:


> One of my flashlight dealers gives out little plastic keychain flashlights with each. Order. It would be cool turn one on, put it IN the balloon, then fill with helium and let it go outdoors in the dark. Maybe get some UFO reports?



If I were to do this trick, I would get several balloons, and put them on a kite string. Since I don't know when or where they would come down, I would feel guilty about littering if I did anything else.


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## bykfixer (Sep 7, 2015)

Got a Sure Fire and want a simple lanyard? Not the metal ring, but a simple loop through kind...









Drill a small pilot hole about an 1/8" donward on the tailpeice near the edge. Then another horizontally...same depth. They meet in the middle.
Then oversize it with an 1/8" bit. 
Place lanyard string into the downward hole and twist it. Soon a loop hole will show. Pluck the loop hole with a toothpick or right angle dental pic and pull. Fasten as you would any other lanyard. 




^^ and there ya have it.

Better pix.









The idea is to leave as much 'meat' in between the holes as practical. I drilled as low as practical horizontally and at a right angle vertically as drilling at an angle would result in much less 'meat' and not look anywhere near as clean when done. 

Ima go out on a limb and say it may void the warranty. But if these babies are any good the warranty won't be needed. If not...no more Sure Fire for this guy.


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## D6859 (Sep 7, 2015)

bykfixer said:


> Ima go out on a limb and say it may void the warranty. But if these babies are any good the warranty won't be needed. If not...no more Sure Fire for this guy.



Doesn't drilling break the waterproofness? Can the water get into the switch or is it still sealed with the rubber?


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## ForrestChump (Sep 8, 2015)

D6859 said:


> Doesn't drilling break the waterproofness? Can the water get into the switch or is it still sealed with the rubber?



No, he didn't drill into the switch, he drilled through the outer "lip".

@ byk - This will hold likely indefinitely without wearing through provided what you mount to it. I think you would even be safe small split ring. Also, theres nothing here that I see that would void the warranty unless it broke on the drilled out part....plus SF now sells switches separately.


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## bykfixer (Sep 10, 2015)

Thanks for that Forest. This is not a light to be mounted. But merely a light that starts on low for see-ing in darkness without affecting my overall adaptation to dark conditions very much. 15 lumens is about right for this guy.

I did the lanyard as drop prevention much like my SLR cameras, where when climbing or descending a hill it's just added peace of mind. If I slip, the last thing on my mind is "oh, crap don't drop the $5000 camera." ... Or in this case the $60 Sure Fire. 

There are things like this I've done over the years to various things in my life that don't make the world spin any smoother. The string lanyard to the nitrolon Sure Fire was one of those things. 

Sometimes I do things just because others said it couldn't be done. And when I saw the get-up required to put a lanyard on the Pro model I thought "no way, at least not on this model". If it was a beater or a mounter, yeah I'd go all out and add a lanyard the Sure Fire way. And it would likely be a modified 9p...because...
MOAR POWAH!

Edit: 
So today I bought a Sure Fire 6P original, and a clicky on/off switch. That switch according to my buddy (300 miles away) with a 9p original says his oem switch has 4 holes in it from the factory. Seems Sure Fire was ahead of me a long time ago.




^^ just gotta do the horizontal part I reckon.
And metal ring this time. Thanks for that idea Forest.


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## Lynx_Arc (Sep 12, 2015)

If you have a light that comes apart because of loose threads try some teflon tape on them. 
Here is a tip not for flashaholics but for using earbuds/earphones in the dark some of them you cannot tell right from left so get a small rubber band and wrap it around one of them so you can "feel" it easily.


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## bykfixer (Sep 12, 2015)

^^ good tips. 
The teflon tape may aid in seal as well...in dropped in a puddle 5 second rule applies situation.

I suppose using a colored rubber band helps in daytime too.
Beats my fingernail polish idea.. which rubs off after a while....(I feel for the texture at night).


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## Lynx_Arc (Sep 12, 2015)

bykfixer said:


> ^^ good tips.
> The teflon tape may aid in seal as well...in dropped in a puddle 5 second rule applies situation.
> 
> I suppose using a colored rubber band helps in daytime too.
> Beats my fingernail polish idea.. which rubs off after a while....(I feel for the texture at night).


I used a knife to cut a nick on one side of one set of earbuds that I could feel but like the rubber band idea better it is easier to feel.


----------



## Flashy808 (Sep 13, 2015)

Lynx_Arc said:


> If you have a light that comes apart because of loose threads try some teflon tape on them.
> Here is a tip not for flashaholics but for using earbuds/earphones in the dark some of them you cannot tell right from left so get a small rubber band and wrap it around one of them so you can "feel" it easily.



Huh never thought of Teflon tape good one!

As for earbuds yeah thats a pretty good idea for anything that needs to used on a particular side.


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## Zorzi (Sep 13, 2015)

I didn't see one of the most flashaholicky tips I learnt here in CPF: to unscrew a just little the tailcap so to lock out the flashlight and avoid losing some juice with parasitic current when the flashlight is not in use. This applies only for lights with hard anodized screws, though, and it is something that non-flashaholics hardly know/do. [emoji2]


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## D6859 (Sep 13, 2015)

Lynx_Arc said:


> If you have a light that comes apart because of loose threads try some teflon tape on them.
> Here is a tip not for flashaholics but for using earbuds/earphones in the dark some of them you cannot tell right from left so get a small rubber band and wrap it around one of them so you can "feel" it easily.



Tie a knot in the wire.


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Sep 13, 2015)

Zorzi said:


> I didn't see one of the most flashaholicky tips I learnt here in CPF: to unscrew a just little the tailcap so to lock out the flashlight and avoid losing some juice with parasitic current when the flashlight is not in use. This applies only for lights with hard anodized screws, though, and it is something that non-flashaholics hardly know/do. [emoji2]


 It may be possible that teflon tape could insulate the light so some non anodized lights could be locked out but they would have to have loose threads to begin with and it is possible that after turning it on/off a bunch of cycles would wear through the tape too.


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## Lynx_Arc (Sep 13, 2015)

D6859 said:


> Tie a knot in the wire.



I don't trust doing that as the wires in earbuds are fragile enough to begin and knots in wires can go tighter and tighter and possible break the wires.


----------



## D6859 (Sep 13, 2015)

Lynx_Arc said:


> I don't trust doing that as the wires in earbuds are fragile enough to begin and knots in wires can go tighter and tighter and possible break the wires.



I had a knot in the wire of my right earbud about 2 years. I thought too that the wire finally soon snap but it didn't. I think I've lost the earbuds sooner.


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## bykfixer (Sep 13, 2015)

Lynx_Arc said:


> I don't trust doing that as the wires in earbuds are fragile enough to begin and knots in wires can go tighter and tighter and possible break the wires.



Agreed.
I'd rather not risk it either.


----------



## bykfixer (Sep 14, 2015)

A lanyard on the 6P incan tactical tail piece was quite different. 
Being metal, the drill acted like drilling metal, not plastic. So being a bit more careful applying pressure I started out with a 5/64th and tried the same approach as the nitrolon. 
Went in same depth. When removing the bit from the vertical hole I saw an edge to the boot cover. 

So I went back in vertically at an angle of say, 30 degrees. Horizontal remained a right angle.
Instead of an 1/8" bit I went smaller. 7/64" was the final hole.

The edge of the boot was in the hole so pushing the lanyard required a straight dental pick as the toothpick pluck kept breaking toothpicks.









I have a Malkoff tail standable on the way for this light. 

I'll enquire from Mr. Malkoff about wall thickness and stuff as I don't want to pop a leak a hole all the way through the wall in a way that lets in water.

If you wanna do the lanyard thing to your metal Sure Fire I'd reccomend a 45° angle instead of the vertical/horizontal thing I did. 
There is a lip on the nitrolon clicky tail peice that is not on the tactical metal one. So I believe it would be too easy to drill all the way through the wall and end up with a leaker.


----------



## more_vampires (Sep 16, 2015)

EDC battery adapter: 
I EDC a Zebralight SC52d. It's normally an AAx1 light, but I keep an AAA inside an AAA->AA adapter. This way I am ready to go with any AA or AAA battery I find without fiddling around improvising an adapter with paper and aluminum foil. I mostly use the low modes, so I am not hampered at all by the reduced capacity of AAA. I EDC an AAA Eneloop in there.

Quick draw keychain light:
I have a carabiner on my belt, slipped through the front right belt loop. I clip my keys to it such that they hang down inside the pocket. I pull my Nitecore Tube out of the pocket, so it's hanging freely. This way, I can just reach down and grab it. Super fast, no messing around. The same action to grip the light turns it on and it's always hanging in the same place.

Upgrading incandescent Maglites:
When putting a new dropin into an incandescent Maglite (particularly an old one,) many modules will act erratically or may not power on. The culprit is usually a switch in dire need of cleaning. I use a pink pencil eraser and then lube with No-ox-id or teflon grease.



recDNA said:


> One of my flashlight dealers gives out little plastic keychain flashlights with each. Order. It would be cool turn one on, put it IN the balloon, then fill with helium and let it go outdoors in the dark. Maybe get some UFO reports?





KeepingItLight said:


> If I were to do this trick, I would get several balloons, and put them on a kite string. Since I don't know when or where they would come down, I would feel guilty about littering if I did anything else.


MMMMM! Kite light! Time to buy or make a kite. I think a Nitecore or Eagletac with the silly "police flasher" mode would be fun. 

Anyone ever mounted a light on a kite? I must do this eventually!


----------



## winston (Sep 16, 2015)

Those emergency cellphone charger tubes use a single 18650 for storing power. Take the battery out and put it in your flashlight for reserve runtime. Or use your light to charge your phone.
-Winston


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## more_vampires (Sep 17, 2015)

winston said:


> Those emergency cellphone charger tubes use a single 18650 for storing power. Take the battery out and put it in your flashlight for reserve runtime. Or use your light to charge your phone.
> -Winston


Some lights, like my Nitecore P25 have USB charging capability so you can top them off with a power bank.

Also, power banks become a flashlight with the addition of a USB plugin light module. I keep one on my keychain, a Soshine cool white.

We can work this from both sides! 

Also:Homemade accessories and MacGuyvering
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ies-and-MacGyver-Like-Flashlight-Applications

Also: How to change the color of black anodizing at home. Major props to CPFer Nein166!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?247493-Flame-activated-Anodize-coloring


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## bykfixer (Sep 26, 2015)

Another lanyard mod:
This time to a Sure Fire G2 incan
(Pardon the crappy pix) 












Same L shaped passage as the previous nitrolons, but I used a rib area of the tac switch cap for extra plastic on the vertical side. Again drilling in about an 1/8" vertically and horizontally with a 3/64th, a 5/64th, then a 7/64th bit. Did not puncture the cap. Right angle dental pic pushes cord in vertically, and plucks it out of the horizontal side. 

The tail cap has no indication of how far to back off before light can be activated in your pocket with sideways pressure. I made easy on the eyes notations. Also made a notation where the lock out occurs.




Paint dot on body, dimple drilled into the cap
I put a paint dot on the ledge of the body for lockout location.

Aaaaaand as you can see, my trusty sharpie enamel paint pen added some contrast to the lettering area.


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## more_vampires (Sep 28, 2015)

I'm digging that lockout index. Great idea!


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## bykfixer (Sep 28, 2015)

Thanks man,

Kinda got the idea from the slots in the 6P original, but added the lockout point as well.


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## GunRaptor (Sep 28, 2015)

Want to use a scope / monocular at night and you don't mind being noticed?

With the scope in your dominant hand and a light flashlight with decent throw in your non-dominant hand, take a modified weaver position (like the non-SureFire method of using a tac light with a pistol).

Put each of you elbows onto your chest just like with a camera, and support the scope hand with the light hand, getting the light as close to the scope as possible. You should be able to keep the beam within the field of view of the scope.

Depending on your light and scope, you should be able to see a significant distance at night with this method. Often times, it'll give you a better image than with entry level night vision devices.


----------



## bykfixer (Oct 2, 2015)

Check out these old mods...

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Custom-strap&p=3785243&highlight=#post3785243

Bicycle grip for cold weather carry, and break-away lanyards.
Nice!


----------



## more_vampires (Oct 2, 2015)

bykfixer said:


> Check out these old mods...
> 
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Custom-strap&p=3785243&highlight=#post3785243
> 
> Bicycle grip for cold weather carry, and break-away lanyards.


Nice! Reminds me of the Plasti-Dip thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?205624-Using-Plasti-dip-Plasti-cote

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Deals-Today)&p=4669558&viewfull=1#post4669558
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?408316-Plasti-dipped-LED-Mag-Lite


----------



## bykfixer (Oct 18, 2015)

So you bought a Klarus and the junky clip popped off?

Easy fix.
Look in your parts box for that pocket clip you decided not to use.




^^ an MD2 clip.
Even though it's oversized there are o-rings you can use to fill the gap between the ring of the clip and the body of the light.


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## D6859 (Oct 19, 2015)

I broke a pocket clip too. Went to my spare box and got a replacement 
Original story: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...loud-has-a-silver-lining-(broken-pocket-clip)


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## bykfixer (Oct 19, 2015)

Yesssssss!!!


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## bykfixer (Nov 7, 2015)

^^ the Streamlight incan gets a lanyard.

This one came with a bezzle up pocket clip for a lanyard attachment point. 




^^ no thanks

Other rings n clips wouldn't work. 
I got out the drill again....








^^ nice pair




^^ where they'll live out most of there future days henceforth


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## D6859 (Nov 9, 2015)

*Headlamp wrist mount: *Tip for a headlamp by WigglyTheGreat here:
"Speaking of being hands free, I found little trick wth my Zebralights just recently. Instead of waist mounting my 2nd Zebralight, I found you can easily mount it to the back of your wrist like a watch. Just place the mount on tbe back of your wrist and then wrap the band around your wrist a couple times, or you could just use a velcro strap. This way you can aim it like you would a handheld flashlight and still have complete use of your hand. Just another option for this type of light. Armytek and some others would work this way too."


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## Lynx_Arc (Nov 9, 2015)

I use a ziplock bag when I take my headlamp somewhere to use even toss in a few spare batteries that way everything is together and safe from water and spills. I like the bags with the sliders on them the best.


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## bykfixer (Nov 10, 2015)

^^ I just did that to a light to be stored in a vehicle I hardly drive.

Put some rice in it until I can find a silicone sac...or until I buy something that comes with one.


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## Lynx_Arc (Nov 11, 2015)

bykfixer said:


> ^^ I just did that to a light to be stored in a vehicle I hardly drive.
> 
> Put some rice in it until I can find a silicone sac...or until I buy something that comes with one.



My parents used to put a saltine cracker in the sugar dispenser to soak up moisture.


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## bykfixer (Nov 11, 2015)

Holy cow!!!

I have seriously been trying to figure out how to stop lumps in the sugar dish.
That post just made my year.

Aaaawwwwwsssuuuum!!!

Back to flashlights:
Got an incan streamlight night fighter or tl 2 you want to upgrade?
The TerraLUX strion drop in.


















^^ check out the garage 300' away.

Edit:
Added a lanyard. 




^^ note how narrow the vertical face is.

Now this one I popped. As in bit broke through and into the cap. Vertical face of the TL 2 just isn't wide enough to do a 45 hole. So I went pert near horizontal and after it was too late I discovered I'd broken through to the inside.


So right now the gap is filled with elmers glue as a filler. 




^^ first layer of filler has to shrink.
About 4 layers required. Then sand it flush with a Scotch Brite pad. 

I'll let it dry overnight and coat it with an enamel sharpie. Then the whole cap will be coated with high temp clear acrylic motor paint and sun baked. 
The idea is to keep rain out as it was only IPX4 before I poked a hole in the cap.

The idea is if the lanyard breaks the plug isn't permanent like an epoxy would be.


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## bykfixer (Nov 13, 2015)

How about some Streamlight Lego action?




^^ light modules are interchangable
The TerraLUX aspheric lens over a Streamlight LED, An LED head over a shock proof bulb, and soon an Incan reflector/head over the Streamlight LED....








^^ remove the protrusion
Note:
Once the protrusion is gone that lens/reflector head won't light an incan anymore. 





Tail caps are interchangeable as well...tac or clicky.

Night Fighters, Strions and Super Tac parts will Lego with the TL as well. Who Fire?


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## bykfixer (Nov 30, 2015)

got the restoration going for a $2 light...




^^ found it today way, down deep in my truck cab




^^ Nite Ized




^^ from pre- made in China days.




^^ this light may have $30 in it when I'm done lol.

Here will be the tricky part...getting a tin looking reflector shiney and a cheesy lens clear. Both are permanently affixed. 




^^ this is the hard part.

Car care products to the rescue....

Stay tuned.


In the meantime, more lanyards;
Lanyarized a bushnell tac light and a mini mag clicky


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## kaichu dento (Nov 30, 2015)

I like it! I've been thinking about trying to do something with one of my old favorite 4xAA blaze orange Buck lights that I used all the time in the 90's and this just reignited those thoughts!

Thanks for posting up such nice pics.


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## TheShadowGuy (Nov 30, 2015)

@bykfixer: You would be surprised how fast you can accumulate those dessicant packs when you are looking for them. They seem to come in everything. Useful, especially when you have things sensitive to humidity and live in a very humid area. Long term electronics storage, various collectibles, even some foods can benefit.
I've also seen people stick rice in the salt/sugar to keep it from clumping.

Anyway, I never liked using pocket clips so I've tried to find other uses for them to justify keeping them on my lights. I've clipped them to packs, to belt loops, to hair, to headphones, to a jacket collar, to papers, to the cuffs of a shirt... there's a lot of non-pocket uses for a pocket clip.


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## bykfixer (Dec 1, 2015)

kaichu dento said:


> I like it! I've been thinking about trying to do something with one of my old favorite 4xAA blaze orange Buck lights that I used all the time in the 90's and this just reignited those thoughts!
> 
> Thanks for posting up such nice pics.



Each morning I see an old Chevelle station wagon on my commute to work. How sexy is a station wagon, right? Worse...it's pastel orange and white like a cream-sicle. ⊙▁⊙.
But the guy has the paint all looking nice, chrome Cragars on Uniroyals looking all sporty and frankly it inspired the yellow Rayovac project.



TheShadowGuy said:


> @bykfixer: You would be surprised how fast you can accumulate those dessicant packs when you are looking for them. They seem to come in everything. Useful, especially when you have things sensitive to humidity and live in a very humid area. Long term electronics storage, various collectibles, even some foods can benefit.
> I've also seen people stick rice in the salt/sugar to keep it from clumping.
> 
> Anyway, I never liked using pocket clips so I've tried to find other uses for them to justify keeping them on my lights. I've clipped them to packs, to belt loops, to hair, to headphones, to a jacket collar, to papers, to the cuffs of a shirt... there's a lot of non-pocket uses for a pocket clip.



I'm not a fan of pocket clips either (even though I have a Microstream clipped to me as I type this), so I generally stick 'em in the flashlight parts box for use on Sharpies, or like you said...other stuff. It's kinda cool to turn one on attached to a shirt sleeve and point at stuff like your hand has super powers or something.


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## sween1911 (Dec 1, 2015)

Here's a simple one... I always use a Sharpie marker on the batteries I load in a light, I write the date they are loaded in the light and what light they're in. Makes it easy to track battery life, keeping batteries together in case I swap modules in certain lights (I use 2 CR123's and a spacer with a Nailbender module, and 3 different CR123's with a Lumens Factory module in a Surefire M3) and keeping track of partially used batteries for use in battery vampire lights later.


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## Lynx_Arc (Dec 1, 2015)

sween1911 said:


> Here's a simple one... I always use a Sharpie marker on the batteries I load in a light, I write the date they are loaded in the light and what light they're in. Makes it easy to track battery life, keeping batteries together in case I swap modules in certain lights (I use 2 CR123's and a spacer with a Nailbender module, and 3 different CR123's with a Lumens Factory module in a Surefire M3) and keeping track of partially used batteries for use in battery vampire lights later.


I have a red sharpie that I use to mark on batteries that I suspect are underperformers as sometimes in series they "poop" out before the other batteries so I know when I have time I can run them through a refresh and see if they improve back to normal or are just going to remain lower capacity. I sometimes use these batteries to test things I'm working on as I'm not worried about them being shorted out and ruined.


----------



## Dimethyl (Dec 1, 2015)

Brand new Olight S2 - switch is a bit tricky to find by feel so I added a little dab of hot glue :twothumbs


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## Flashy808 (Dec 2, 2015)

Dimethyl said:


> Brand new Olight S2 - switch is a bit tricky to find by feel so I added a little dab of hot glue :twothumbs



Ahh that's such a neat idea although have you checked whether it hurts the surface of the flashlight in any way or whether it comes off easily with use?

I've got a S15R and I sometimes find it quite difficult to locate the switch too especially in a hurry even with a pockets clip because all of its sides would be symmetrical if I didn't have the clip installed .

Thanks for the Tip though!  [emoji106]🏼


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## Dimethyl (Dec 2, 2015)

I did a bunch of test spots and had no trouble with the surface getting damaged or discolored.

As for how well it holds, I had varying results with the test spots, but I think the trick is to keep the glue gun as close as possible while applying to keep the glue hotter. For that reason, I assume a high temp gun is best (I don't have a low temp one to test with though).


----------



## Flashy808 (Dec 2, 2015)

Dimethyl said:


> I did a bunch of test spots and had no trouble with the surface getting damaged or discolored.
> 
> As for how well it holds, I had varying results with the test spots, but I think the trick is to keep the glue gun as close as possible while applying to keep the glue hotter. For that reason, I assume a high temp gun is best (I don't have a low temp one to test with though).



Oh seems like that would make sense. Thanks, I'll have to give it a try..


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## ForrestChump (Dec 2, 2015)

For all the acrylic lenses out there....You can wax the lens when new to inhibit scratching with Carnauba wax.

It will also remove some surface scratches.

If you really want to get crazy with it, there is lens wax for headlights specifically for restoring acrylic and deep scratches, would work great removing weapon residue.


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## bykfixer (Dec 2, 2015)

^^ cool

Tonight I turned my G2 tac into a clicky using a Streamlight switch from a polytac I got from Mr. Chump. 

Both are back to factory now, but I thought it was cool. It also works on the G2x Pro.


----------



## ForrestChump (Dec 2, 2015)

bykfixer said:


> ^^ cool
> 
> Tonight I turned my G2 tac into a clicky using a Streamlight switch from a polytac I got from Mr. Chump.
> 
> Both are back to factory now, but I thought it was cool. It also works on the G2x Pro.



Those SL switches are beasts. I tried to drown one in crazy glue.

Knowing the switches are interchangeable is a good tip too!


----------



## bykfixer (Dec 4, 2015)

How about a pouch for your Alpha?




The one that comes with this....




And a bunch of other small lights works great.




^^ this one splits via hook n loop tape for ability to place over your belt _while you're wearing it_.


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## ForrestChump (Dec 6, 2015)

Those SL pouches are nice. I was impressed for an included accessory.

Nothing earth shattering, but I think it's good enough that it would sell on it's own.

Throw them in a clamshell. Get them Made In The USA with the little flag on the tag.....

$12.99 all day long.


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## xzel87 (Dec 9, 2015)

Not sure if it has been mentioned before, but if you don't have a P60 outer spring on hosts that needs it for the drop in to stay in place and not rattle OR for electrical contact. Wrapping the drop in tightly in copper/aluminium tape then press fitting into the body works too. Not suitable for weapon mounted lights of course.


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## ForrestChump (Dec 11, 2015)

Dimethyl said:


> I did a bunch of test spots and had no trouble with the surface getting damaged or discolored.
> 
> As for how well it holds, I had varying results with the test spots, but I think the trick is to keep the glue gun as close as possible while applying to keep the glue hotter. For that reason, I assume a high temp gun is best (I don't have a low temp one to test with though).



I would of just done it up.

Hot glue won't do anything. Its rather inert....the temp says 248F for average glue guns but I really don't think so...... I can put it on my hand with no blisters / slight redness.
Either that or it cools extremely quickly so the gun in fact may be 248F at the tip but as soon as the glue starts coming it rapidly cools.... Hitting the aluminum on a flashlight for split second 200F + won't render any cosmetic damage. Rubber switches and acrylic lenses are likely a different story, but I wouldn't be suprised if a fair number of them came out unscathed.


*****Just read you had a high temp. How hot?


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## Dimethyl (Dec 11, 2015)

The high temp ones are supposedly 380F. You definitely have to be more careful with these, it burns pretty bad if you get the glue on you.


----------



## ForrestChump (Dec 11, 2015)

Dimethyl said:


> The high temp ones are supposedly 380F. You definitely have to be more careful with these, it burns pretty bad if you get the glue on you.




Yeah....that would burn a Forrest.

Whats the advantage?


----------



## Dimethyl (Dec 11, 2015)

The high temp ones produce a stronger bond, but I suppose it depends on the material. I suspect it makes a very big difference on metal.


----------



## ForrestChump (Dec 12, 2015)

Interesting.


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## bykfixer (Dec 19, 2015)

So you want your LED Strion to look like an incan aye?

So did I.

Bonus: it turns into a flooder...





Here's how;

First you need a sacrificial incan face cap/reflector. I had a beat up one to experiment on.
Next, a bench grinder is like using a pipe wrench to remove spark plugs...it'll do it, but a dremel is better. And bits...gotta have shapers, cutters, polishers etc.




^^ like flashlights, the more the merrier.




^^ left is factory.




^^ again left is factory.

I cut off the protrusion with a cutting disk in about oh, say 4 minutes. Then placed it on the Strion. 

Great! It worked. But how about the beam?
Noahs Arc required beam. (ie Flood) Nice.
But that hole in the center...just like the incan twisted to flood. Ugh!
Yet, wait...no bat wings. YaaaY!

The sanding disk helped get the LED into the reflector, but not entirely.



^^ here's post sanding disk





^^ here's the beam.
Now the light was about 12" from that door to accentuate the hole at it's worst visibility. You move away and it becomes less pronounced.




^^ left you see how Streamlight fixed it in the LED versions.
But the LED versions are throwers. Nice deep reflactors with a sort of collar around the LED emitter.
I want flood here. 




^^ note the hotspot on the factory set up.
This pic is 3' away to get about the same size circle of flood the incan reflector gives at 1'. 

A wee bit more sanding may take place but after a bunch of measurements were taken I really don't think the face cap will go any further onto the body...at least not enough to completely eliminate the shadow in the center.




^^ the LED reflector surrounds the emitter tightly creating a cone of light. 




^^ the incan reflector does not.




^^ the xenon protrudes waaaaay in.

Hence the hole when adjusted to flood with the xenon bulb. 
I suppose it just wasn't a good idea to hug a hot bulb like that.

But if anybody has anything to add...please do.

I'll do night stuff and see if the hole is annoying enough to disregard the idea....remembering it's an idea for turning a Strion into a home made flooder.

Edit;
Some beam pix of the Strion LED reflector vs the incan reflector.




^^ the incan wall shot




^^ LED wall shot

It seems the hole is permanent. But the width of spill is apparent.




^^ throw of the incan




^^ LED throw.

In real world use the spill is enhanced to an effective warehouse lighter vs the LED search beam.




^^ the incan at 75-100' 




^^ the LED 

As the pix show, spill is enhanced enough to use as a nice camp site light, perhaps an indoor self defense light where the lack of center spot keeps you from blinding yourself on walls or close up trees etc. 
So even though it's ugly in wall tests I like the results. It is a bit of a boon as the hot spot of a C4 is notorious for self blinding, even from some of the lower lumen models. much less a 10k candela one. 
Great close quarters action from a C4 Strion.... Yeah, I'm diggin' the idea.

Another edit:
Pix where the hole is irrevelant or a bonus;



^^ C4 reflector from my porch




^^ the incan reflector, what hole?




^^ C4 from the car




^^ the incan, again what hole?




^^ C4 spotlighter




^^ incan wall of light.

So in real world scenarios the shadow is not an issue.


----------



## seery (Dec 20, 2015)

If you run a lot of live fire drills with your weapons mounted light, try this. 

Rub Chapstick on the lens and when you are done simply wipe it off. The Chapstick provides a simple and safe barrier to prevent the lead and carbon from adhering to the lens. 

And if you choose to run an unprotected lens, just use a drop of water and a pencil eraser to clean it. Works better than anything else available.

Both of these tips are thanks to the Surefire Military reps.


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## bykfixer (Feb 5, 2016)

My flickering Alpha hi/lo tail cap got replaced with a PowerTac noggin knocker.

It starts on low. That is how I previously did 99.999% of the time anyway. It now has a woken by intruder at 2am insta-strobe that prompts from the high setting as well. 






And a little bit of scraping with a blade turned a fried egg beam'd light into a useable room lighter.




^^ yes this was the beam up close




^^ right beam is post lens tweak.

I took a pair of $5 junky lights and using a pocket knife and a Scotch Brite pad scuffed the lens to diffuse all the yellow being emitted from the light.
Using the pocket knife resulted in a million billion tic-tac-toe patterns with yellow highlights.
The Scotch Brite pad made a frost appear on the lens.




^^ kinda like Elzetta did with the Alpha


----------



## bykfixer (Feb 7, 2016)

Here's one Wolfgaze shared in the LED section.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ro-Quick-Fix-Remedy-For-Stiff-Tail-Cap-Switch

Makes momentary activation of small Streamlights much easier.





Edit:
Speaking of Microstream.....




^^ Clip works great on a solitaire.


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## Flashy808 (Feb 10, 2016)

Ahaha that's a pretty unique (in a good way) solution.


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## D6859 (Feb 10, 2016)

*Using a thrower in snowy conditions: *When it's snowing keep the flashlight at your waist height. If you hold it at your eye height, the light reflecting from the falling snow will blind you and prevent you from seeing further. If you keep it at waist level the light reflecting from the snow on the ground won't blind you that much and the falling snow doesn't bother you. Also you can actually see where you're going to.


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## bykfixer (Mar 13, 2016)

^^ Good tip.
I suppose that could apply to rain and fog as well.

Continuing with the Bykfixer adds a lanyard thing.. 
The mini mag C size is round with no lanyard provisions. 
So I got out the drill again.




^^ a bit of offset wobble-free ensures tail stand




^^ can't tell it's there.

Well as I said, it's round. And nearly identical in OD as the Streamlight Stinger. Enter anti-roll.




^^ removable anti-roll.

As we all know Mag has that famous beam.
A diffused lens called Acrylite from Flashlight Lens.com cleans things up nicely while hardly affecting output.




^^ left one has the Acrylite lens




^^ still plenty of throw. 
They are available for all sized MagLites.

Want a mirror shine to your gloss finish flashlight?
Mothers Mag wheel polish is a good place to start on a pewter light, or California Gold synthetic wax to colored lights.




^^ before





^^ after
That was using just wheel polish and a micro fiber cloth.


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## bykfixer (Mar 27, 2016)

No biggie but I was happy to know that a Malkoff MD2 tailcap not only fits the ole Pelican M6, but lights it.













Makes a mighty fine tail stander too.
Oh yeah, I added a lanyard... who'da-thunk it?

No worries, a blemished tailcap got the dental drill treatment.



^^ scratches coated with a Sharpie enamel pen are hardly seen anymore.


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## KBobAries (Apr 4, 2016)

Google NiteIze gear tie. Great way to hang a light or improvise a stand for hands-free work. Fairly stiff wire inside the rubber coating keeps the light where you point it. I keep an 18" in my work bag. Sounds larger than it is. Figure using over 3" wrapping one end around a 1" light. That leaves roughly a 5" equilateral triangle with the free end back at the body. Coat hanger shaped. That gives more elevation to angle the light upward when working underneath a vehicle or whatever. Works well with the length of my 6P host lights. Choose longer or shorter depending which light you're carrying.

Dan


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## Tachead (Apr 4, 2016)

KBobAries said:


> Google NiteIze gear tie. Great way to hang a light or improvise a stand for hands-free work. Fairly stiff wire inside the rubber coating keeps the light where you point it. I keep an 18" in my work bag. Sounds larger than it is. Figure using over 3" wrapping one end around a 1" light. That leaves roughly a 5" equilateral triangle with the free end back at the body. Coat hanger shaped. That gives more elevation to angle the light upward when working underneath a vehicle or whatever. Works well with the length of my 6P host lights. Choose longer or shorter depending which light you're carrying.
> 
> Dan



I have a few of those to hang my lanterns from tree branches and other stuff. They work well.


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## Lynx_Arc (Apr 4, 2016)

Tachead said:


> I have a few of those to hang my lanterns from tree branches and other stuff. They work well.



I've been using 12 gauge house wire instead myself it is a lot cheaper.


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## eh4 (Apr 4, 2016)

For the trick of drilling two holes that meet to make a lanyard attachment; I'd take a piece of shoestring or similar and coat it with some kind of abrasive slurry, saw it back and forth through the hole to eliminate any sharp edges that might cut the lanyard.


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## KITROBASKIN (Apr 4, 2016)

Lynx_Arc said:


> I've been using 12 gauge house wire instead myself it is a lot cheaper.



Are you talking about 'romex' type wiring for homes, or the bare copper wire?


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## Lynx_Arc (Apr 6, 2016)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Are you talking about 'romex' type wiring for homes, or the bare copper wire?


insulated non stranded wire. If you need heavier wire then a lower gauge should work like 10 gauge. It is a less elegant solution but often people have scrap pieces of wire around that don't cost them a thing.


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## freefly (Apr 8, 2016)

ForrestChump said:


> For all the acrylic lenses out there....You can wax the lens when new to inhibit scratching with Carnauba wax.
> 
> It will also remove some surface scratches.
> 
> If you really want to get crazy with it, there is lens wax for headlights specifically for restoring acrylic and deep scratches, would work great removing weapon residue.


Also, if you wax or grease (Vaseline, Chapstick/Carmex, etc.) your WML lens when new and/or prior to use, the carbon build up will wipe right off.


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## freefly (Apr 8, 2016)

bykfixer said:


> I took a pair of $5 junky lights and using a pocket knife and a Scotch Brite pad scuffed the lens to diffuse all the yellow being emitted from the light.
> Using the pocket knife resulted in a million billion tic-tac-toe patterns with yellow highlights.
> The Scotch Brite pad made a frost appear on the lens.


Another (less permanent) option for a diffuse lens is to cut out the appropriate size disc out of an "anti-glare" or "matte" cell-phone/tablet screen protector. If you don't get enough diffusion with one, you can cut out another and do both sides of the lens. If you don't have any laying around, you can usually get them on eBay for less than $1 shipped (and often less than $.50 shipped), even from US-based sellers. Much cheaper than buying a full sheet of DC-Fix film!


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## bykfixer (Apr 8, 2016)

^^ Nice. 

Dawg-gonnit, I have chunks of zagg left from here to Albequrqe too. 

Will try that on a mini Mag.

Edit:
Mothers wheel polish to smooth reflectors helps your light kick out a wee bit more...




A pair of Rayovac 2aa Indestructable reflectors

Note the slightly brighter hotspot and wider spill.


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## Lynx_Arc (Dec 19, 2016)

Sinkling bounce..... if your light won't tail stand you can lay it down in a sink and it will bounce off the sink all over the place and light up the room.


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## Guitar Guy (Mar 10, 2018)

Whenever there is a need for penetrating oil, Kroil is the best I’ve used. Better than PB Blaster or WD40 easily IMO. I’ve had great success with it on vehicles, motorcycles, and recently on some corroded old flashlights. It will even remove lead fouling from rifle barrels.

The bezel on this 29 yr old 6C Maglite would not budge, and after I put the Kroil on and left it overnight (and I usually tap with a wooden hammer handle when I apply), it came apart by hand easily with using the pieces of rubber shelf liner shown.

The Mr. Goodwrench light was full of alkaline corrosion, with the switch frozen to the tube. The retaining ring would not move, even with great force. I applied the Kroil twice, and within a half hour or less, it ran through the threads and past the switch. The ret ring spun right out as if it was already loose, and the switch popped right out with a light tap from the wooden hammer handle.

I like the liquid in the can, but I know of one local coal company that uses it in the aerosol can.

JT





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Other side of can.



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[/IMG]


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## bykfixer (Mar 15, 2018)

Good lookin' out Guitar Man!! 

Here's one member gurdygurds sprung on me.




In the toilet/sink repair section of stores.
He told me he uses #15 size. The Malkoff MDC is less than grippy. Yet that silicone ring sure helps. 
I got #12 knowing it will stretch over an MDC yet if I want one on a smaller body they'll work there too.


Comes with 10 for about $2.50




Why not grip ring all them 1 cell lights?


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## bykfixer (Oct 25, 2019)

Bump for chapstick cap difusser/traffic wand on your 1aaa Fenix or Sofirm. 

A discussion in the what you did with your flashlight today turned to traffic wands. Tech25 mentioned a chapstick cap over his Sofirm C01 hi/lo. Insta-traffic wand. 
Well those who haaaaaate the beam of the Fenix E01 but don't want to permanently alter it this can help that too. 

I have found over the years two types of chapstick type lip balm applicators. One with a white cap. The other with an opaque clear. Those are typically novelty items such as promos for some companies. White allows pure difussion while opaque difusses but still allows some light to cast forward. 

I chose a Fenix E05 for this as it can put out up to 85 lumens, which is a decent amount to make it a mini traffic wand. 

At startup with the E05 there's enough difussion with the opaque cap to make it seem a lot less bright at a 2am nature call. And it masks the bright white by adding a bit of neutral tint all while being easily reversable. Plus the cap is easy to store. 





Here's two choices I had laying in a drawer. 






White cap means pure glow





Opaque cap allows light forward too. 






Side by side PKDL PL2 (on 15 lumen low) and 7 lumen warm Yuji Sofirm C01

Either one works on a Fenix E01,E05, or a Sofirm C01.
The opaque type fits a PKDL PL2.
Both are too big for the Mag Solitaire though. Dratz. 

Thanks for the idea Tech25


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## tech25 (Oct 25, 2019)

Awesome write up! The credit goes to CPF, I believe I saw it mentioned on one of the threads and went with it. Also mentioned was the ability to use different color caps like amber or red on flavored chap sticks.


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## peter yetman (Oct 25, 2019)

Why have I not discovered this thread before now?
I feel like I've come home.
You'll probably all leave now.
P


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## InvisibleFrodo (Oct 25, 2019)

Am I the only one here who used a red chapstick cap to give a red light for keeping dark adapted vision?


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## bykfixer (Oct 25, 2019)

And now it's officially written down.……


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## Burgess (Oct 26, 2019)

Been using Chap-Stick caps

as diffusers for Years and Years !


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