# 1kW Xenon Arc Tank Light



## lotsalumens

Hi everyone,

Here is something fun I picked up earlier this year, and just got working a couple of months ago. It is an AN/VSS-3 1kW xenon arc tank searchlight with remote focus and infrared mode. The light is a nice compact case at approximately 16" square in front and maybe 24" deep and 65lbs or so (says 75lbs on top but feels much lighter). It took a long time to find the correct military connectors, make the cables, and find a suitable supply, but it was worth it. I just thought the folks here might enjoy some beamshots:


























These lights have been showing up on ebay frequently lately. This one was brand new, packed in 1980, and still in original crates with waterproof airtight foil bags around everything. The supply I found is a 28v 60amp DC unit used by the Marines to power a big radio set. It is the most incredibly overbuilt and indestructible component I have ever seen. I honestly believe you could send it down a flight of stairs with no ill effects (to the supply that is!). Gotta love ebay!

cfb


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## jtice

Im still crapping my pants as I type this... :green:

I LIKE it ! muuuhahahahaha
Now, the qustion is,,, how much was it? :grin:

What voltage and amperage is the PS drawing?

~John


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## shiftd

whoa, the ultimate light saber 

i want one!!!!!!!!!!

ticey, get me one


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## nemul

Holy Snikes!


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## lotsalumens

I'd guess the supply is pulling somewhere around 1,800 watts maybe? Not that much compard to a hair dryer or toaster. It will run on a 15 amp breaker for a a few minutes before tripping it. A 20 amp breaker seems to handle it fine. Price was $450 for the light (with 2 remote control panels etc), and $225 for the supply. The connectors got pricey since they are not that common. Shipping on the light also wasn't cheap since it was packed in an enormous wooden crate with all the components separately boxed inside. I'll see if I can dig up a photo of the remote. 

The light is sort of like a mini version of an advertising searchlight and can be moved around very easily.


cfb


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## lotsalumens

p.s. The neat thing is that the beam really looks like that (i.e. it's not just the camera exposure). We first fired it up at a house my wife and I share with my sister and our dad. The house is on a harbor and my wife and dad drove to the other side of the harbor (about .75mi away) to see what it looked like. They said that even at that distance the beam just kept going up and up.


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## X33

:goodjob::twothumbs:thumbsup:

:bow::bow::bow::bow:

It's the biz! AWESOME!


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## SilverFox

Hello Lotsalumens,

Wow...  That's simply awesome...

Tom


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## rantanplan

can you post a lux reading ... lets say at 100m ??? 

impressive beam ... :kewlpics:


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## KevinL

Holy facking cow.....

That's not a light, that's an energy weapon with some of the most awe-inspiring beamshots I have ever seen. :bow: :bow: :bow:


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## zelda

The ultimate nightvision killer?

Zelda


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## zespectre

So THAT's what kept making the moon so bright last night!


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## dwminer

Well I'm totally impressed, it's just what I need to spot things that go bump in the might. Wife said OK, now I have to find one cheap. I never thought you would get this light up and going. Good work. Buy the way, did you have to clear this with "Homeland security"?


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## Kiessling

Yikes! oo:
I see that pic in the 2006 calendar ...  
What a light!

Can you hold your hand in front of it without reducing your skin to ashes instantly?

bernie


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## chrisse242

Kiesslin
Can you hold your hand in front of it without reducing your skin to ashes instantly?
bernie[/QUOTE said:


> You'd already know that, if you had been to the 2004 get-together in Landau. Lampenkaiser had one of those with him.
> Great output, but not really pocketable... :naughty:
> 
> Chrisse


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## lotsalumens

Kiessling said:


> Yikes! oo:
> I see that pic in the 2006 calendar ...
> What a light!
> 
> Can you hold your hand in front of it without reducing your skin to ashes instantly?
> 
> bernie



I tried aiming it at a board about 8 feet away or a couple of minutes. The board got warm, but nothing major. The advertising lights you typically see outdoors are a few kW more powerful than this thing. What's neat about it though is how tiny and portable it is, and the insanely collimated beam in produces. It just never spreads out. 

The other neat thing is that it is sort of like a giant Maxabeam in that it has internal servos and a remote that can move the bulb in and out of the reflector to adjust beam width. The wide beam is still only a few degrees.

cfb


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## IsaacHayes

This is a true "bird cooker". I bet any moths that go into the beam, only come back out spiraling to the ground! This light looks REALLY cool too. It shines so far you'd need binoculars to see what your'e lighting up!!


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## blahblahblah

It gives me the giggles


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## RalphRussell

Quote from lotsalumens in another thread:

"Ralph,

I have one of these lights. To avoid hijacking your thread I just posted some beamshots and details in a new thread. They are really incredible lights and well worth the effort to get working (bearing in mind some of exposure and explosion hazards of xenon arc lamps!)."




You have totally destroyed my thread but so what. I bet you are the person that bought the first of two of these from the same eBay seller. The seller said he had sold one previously. They were both brand new (never used). For me, he unpacked the crate and shipped it in two boxes via UPS.

This is the best possible outcome of my original posting in the other thread. Your beam shots make me really want to get this thing working. I hope you can take a few minutes and tell me EVERYTHING. If there is any info that you would only send in a private message, I do accept e-mails.

. How did you get the cables?
. Have you tried the infra-red mode?
. Where do you get the power supply?
. Where can we get replacement xenon lamps?
. I was going start by using two big marine batteries hooked in series. Do you think that will work or should I get a power supply right away?

Will it reach the clouds? When I get mine working, I want to see if it will light up the base of the clouds. We must be careful with these lights. If we accidentally pointed one at an aircraft, they will probably come and cart us away!


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## MaxaBaker

RalphRussell said:


> Quote from lotsalumens in another thread:
> 
> Will it reach the clouds? When I get mine working, I want to see if it will light up the base of the clouds. We must be careful with these lights. If we accidentally pointed one at an aircraft, they will probably come and cart us away!



I can guarantee you that it will reach the clouds. If mini versions of it can, then that thing will probably vaporize them


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## chimo

The biggest EDC yet! The bad news is you will need someone to help carry you key ring around.  

Great job on this and excellent beam pics! :kewlpics: 

Paul


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## larryk

Very, very nice. When your neighbors stop talking to you, and start putting there homes up for sale, I'll buy it from you. Larry.


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## AlexGT

OMG!!! Pass me some paper!!!

http://www.helemaaltegek.nl/events/upload/oh_shit.jpg


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## jwiren

Holy mother that light!! I am in shock 

But lotsalumens and RalphRussell here is some info at the light: http://www.tpub.com/content/elecequipment/TM-11-5855-217-12-2/css/TM-11-5855-217-12-2_2.htm

And here is more  http://www.2xtreme.net/~kowens/searchlight.html


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## Grox

Wow! I'm impressed. Now all we need is for someone to shrink this into a mag 4d body ...


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## tvodrd

Truely cool! :bow:

Larry


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## GhostReaction

shiftd said:


> whoa, the ultimate light saber
> 
> i want one!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> ticey, get me one


That Beam would have made Darth Vader look like a Bangkok lady boy


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## lotsalumens

Ralph,

Did yours come from that surplus dealer in Texas? If so then you are correct, I bought their first one. Unfortunately they did not want to separate mine and ship UPS. The truck freight shipping ended up costing almost as much as the light! Anyway I will send you a PM so that we can talk about cables etc by email.


cfb


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## rugup

I'm so friggin, friggin......friggin, jealous.

I hate you guys.


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## Sway

lotsa!

Thats amazing :bow: :bow: :bow:

When is the group buy going to happen 

Later
Kelly


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## lotsalumens

I first saw one of these on ebay many years ago and had been kicking myself for not bidding on it. I didn't see any more until these turned up, but now they seem to be showing up every few weeks...though some are in better shape than others. The prices also tend to vary widely. They were used in Vietnam on tanks as well as helicopters. On helicopters they would use the light in infrared mode to spot the enemy, and then switch to visible to engage. 


cfb


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## john2551

cfb,

Is it possible to post a beamshot at a distant object? Your 3 shots are awesome but all go up to the sky.

Thanks,


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## Nereus

"The bad news is you will need someone to help carry you key ring around."
The good news is that it will be very hard to lose the key ring... What a light! With the infrared option you can barbecue a chicken from a distance of 10 kilometres!

-Nereus


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## lotsalumens

John2551,

There is not a whole lot of open space around the house (mostly woods) to do a distant target shot, other than across the harbor which is only about .5-.75 miles away. Problem is that there are houses on the other side. I might be able to try it in our back field next weekend but it will only be a couple of hundred yards. It is supposed to be able to illuminate targets a couple of miles away. Anyway I will see what I can do next weekend. The light is out at a summer house my wife and I share with relatives.

cfb


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## lotsalumens

P.S. 

John, I noticed you are in NYC. We are too, though the light is not. No space to use it here sadly. Anyway I am glad to see the NYPD represented on CPF!


cfb


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## jwiren

lotsalumens said:


> I first saw one of these on ebay many years ago and had been kicking myself for not bidding on it. I didn't see any more until these turned up, but now they seem to be showing up every few weeks...though some are in better shape than others. The prices also tend to vary widely. They were used in Vietnam on tanks as well as helicopters. On helicopters they would use the light in infrared mode to spot the enemy, and then switch to visible to engage.
> 
> 
> cfb



I found one, but price is too big 2500usd!

Her have got three light, but only one left!

What have been prices at Ebay?


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## K-T

I am with Chrisse on this - you should have seen the real one at the 2004 meeting - I was freaking out when Lampenkaiser hit the ignition switch on that beast. It throws a pencilsharp beam far,far,far (did I say far?) away in the distance. We were worried at certain times that people in the neighbourhood might get worried about our activities ontop of that hill. I was close to getting one of those just for the pure and raw power of it - never had the car and the trailer for it for transportation.


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## frettedfive

lotsalumens said:


> Ralph,
> 
> Did yours come from that surplus dealer in Texas? If so then you are correct, I bought their first one. Unfortunately they did not want to separate mine and ship UPS. The truck freight shipping ended up costing almost as much as the light! Anyway I will send you a PM so that we can talk about cables etc by email.
> 
> 
> cfb



Surplus dealer in Texas, you say?? I would very much appreciate any contact info you could provide, as I'm in Texas and would like to get in touch with the man who's selling these...

Wonderful beamshots, BTW... :rock: The beam's so tight it almost looks like a friggin' laser beam


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## lotsalumens

JWIREN,

Someone was asking $2,500 for one of these?? wow. I got mine for $450 new. I have seen used ones on ebay for less and more. I don't see any currently on auction, though there are two of the larger 2+kW VSS-1s for about $1,000 (that's not a deal either...saturn surplus sells them for less). I've heard firsthand that at 230lbs the VSS-1 is no fun to move around though.

FRETTEDFIVE,

The dealer was samssurplus.com in Stanton TX, but they only had four and sold them all. Might not hurt to call them up just in case they dig up some more though. The cables cost a couple of hundred to make since the connectors are expensive.


cfb


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## ddaadd

Sets my Costco HID down by the screen and tells him the story of his Great Grand Dad who rode on the Army tanks many years ago......LOL !!

Whoa...... Holy BatBeam !! 

"I don't think the nieghbors could be any more annoyed at me than they already are." I plead to my wife, and get THAT LOOK, in return......

Oh welll.......

Lets see a pic of you changing a tire using that monster !! he he

More Beamshots Please !!


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## Jazz

lotsalumens,

PM sent.


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## That_Guy

Could you please post some pictures of the light next to a Thor or something so that I can get a better idea of size.

Is the ballast part of the light or is the radio supply acting as the ballast?

Any idea what the beam divergence is? From the pictures it looks like 0.0 degrees!

And what happened to that 750w aviation light of yours?


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## john2551

lotsalumens said:


> P.S.
> 
> John, I noticed you are in NYC. We are too, though the light is not. No space to use it here sadly. Anyway I am glad to see the NYPD represented on CPF!
> 
> 
> cfb


 
cfb,

Yes, if you travel on any of the Bronx Highways at night look for the tall officer with the brightest flashlight! I've been "converting" the other cops to better, brighter flashlights one at a time because many of them still use the old 3D maglite with a regular bulb!!!!

John


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## lotsalumens

ThatGuy,

Here are some photos I posted in a temporary directory on one of my web sites a while ago. This was several months ago just after the light arrived when I was unpacking everything. They will give you an idea of scale (that's one of my kids next to the light...he was about 18 months old at the time). They also show the interior of the light as well as the remote controls. The smaller remote is redundant and I do not have it wired up. Click on thumbnails for full images:

http://electricmuseum.com/temp/searchlight

The light and remote have all their own electronics built in, so the power supply does not need a ballast. It just needs to be able to provide about 28v at 60 amps or so. 

- Beam divergence is approximately 1 to 1.5 degrees at tight focus.

- You asked about the 750w aviation lamp I was working on a while ago. I got stumped by the igniter circuit (how to keep the main supply from loading the circuit during the HV pulse...you need a huge inductor or injection transformer or something). At about the same time this light showed up. This seemed like a better project to focus on, so I gave up on the aviation lamps and sold two of them. I still have one left that I'll probably put on ebay sometime.


Charles


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## Jazz

Thanks Lotsalumens,

Great pics. So how did you create a 110VAC to 28VDC power supply that can dish out 60A?


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## lotsalumens

I didn't build the supply, it's an ebay find. It's surplus military designed to power a big Marine Corps radio set. 28v 60amp, about 90lbs, watertight, and insanely overbuilt. Cost $225 which seemed pretty good. There is a photo of it next to the light in the first message of this thread. Just give the photos time to load.


cfb


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## Jazz

I'm still thinking about getting one of these. They say the power requirements of the one they are selling is 28VDC @ 100Amp. I wonder if 24VDC would work from two car batteries. Just to test the thing.


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## lotsalumens

Jazz,

My light is an AN/VSS-3 and the stated current rating is something like 58 or 60 amps. The much larger and heavier AN/VSS-1 has higher current needs. Are you sure the one you are looking at is a VSS-3? If so the seller may just have the specs wrong. 

I didn't get any more beam shots last weekend unfortunately. We had a big thunderstorm on staturday night. Not sure when we will be out there again, but whenever it is I will try for some "targeted" beamshots.


cfb


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## twentysixtwo

Holey freaking cow!!!! I'd love to have that light, but it would cost me a lot more than a few hundred dollars if you get my drift.........


Post some pix of your wacked out connectors. I have some that are very odd and military looking.....


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## Jazz

lotsalumens said:


> Jazz,
> 
> My light is an AN/VSS-3 and the stated current rating is something like 58 or 60 amps. The much larger and heavier AN/VSS-1 has higher current needs. Are you sure the one you are looking at is a VSS-3? If so the seller may just have the specs wrong.
> 
> I didn't get any more beam shots last weekend unfortunately. We had a big thunderstorm on staturday night. Not sure when we will be out there again, but whenever it is I will try for some "targeted" beamshots.
> 
> 
> cfb



I given up on this pipe dream. Now on to putting HID projectors in my truck. Been hanging out at HIDPLANET.


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## lotsalumens

Jazz,

Well the whole thing turned into a pretty big project making the cables and getting it going. I am loaning the cables to a friend of mine down south who also bought one of these lights and wants to use it for Halloween. I considered making him a set of cables since he is not too electrical, but I just don't have time right now. As I mentioned earlier, my light is out at a shared family house, and since we don't get out there much this time of year it is pretty much packed up for winter.

The HID projectors sound like fun.

cfb


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## lotsalumens

P.S. Here is a web page with a photo showing one of these lights installed on a tank ( the light is the green canvas covered box over the main gun):

http://www.afvnews.ca/cgi-bin/web-bbs/webbbs_config.pl/noframes/read/59751

This shows how they were mounted on helicopters (this is a slightly earlier version of the same light...it has angled corners on top). Note the 7.62 minigun. I sure wouldn't want something like this coming after me!

http://www.foxco-2ndbn-9thmarines.com/uh1h-001_Large_Web_view.jpg

Just thought these photos were interesting since they show this type of light in its original context.

cfb


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## toughcasey

hey everyone, this is my first post, i have been lurking around the forums for a while and finally found a reason to post...

.., i think this video is of a similar searchlight being used in combat...looks pretty awesome!

http://www.big-boys.com/articles/mosulbombs.html


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## PhillyRube

They may have been set up in infra-red mode. The bad guys drove right into the beam. Also note the flasher on the back of one of the guys, to ID him from the air.


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## chesterqw

wow awe-spiring light. i think i can use that to cook at camps  or just burn other camps down...

your beam shots are awesome! using a nikon d100 eh?

first beamshot shutter speed was 2.5s
second and third was 3.0s
all with the the aperture size of 3.5!!

dang bright. i think i will have to work for agessssssss to get it.


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## Steve77

Wow that's awsome. I wuz thinking about a X990 for my big light, but now.....:rock: 

Great pics! Can't wait to see more.:goodjob: :thanks:


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## Phased_Array

Hmmm...
Today one sold on Ebay for $250... I bought it with no competing bids. Less than 150 views of the item for 10 days! I downloaded the gov't wiring diagrams and manuals beforehand to be sure I could hot wire it without the control boxes. :rock: 

They're still out there.

Phased Array


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## lotsalumens

chesterqw said:


> wow awe-spiring light. i think i can use that to cook at camps  or just burn other camps down...
> 
> your beam shots are awesome! using a nikon d100 eh?
> 
> first beamshot shutter speed was 2.5s
> second and third was 3.0s
> all with the the aperture size of 3.5!!
> 
> dang bright. i think i will have to work for agessssssss to get it.




Yes I love my D100! I just had it set on auto for those shots, so it came up with the shutter speed and aperture on its own.


cfb


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## lotsalumens

Phased_Array said:


> Hmmm...
> Today one sold on Ebay for $250... I bought it with no competing bids. Less than 150 views of the item for 10 days! I downloaded the gov't wiring diagrams and manuals beforehand to be sure I could hot wire it without the control boxes. :rock:
> 
> They're still out there.
> 
> Phased Array



Nice find! Can't wait to hear when you get it working. If you need any extra parts, I have the small extra remote which I don't need as well as an extra connector that goes to the light (minus strain relief). You can PM me for info if interested. These are absolutely amazing little lights.


cfb


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## nc987

Simply awesome. When I get a place of my own i want something like that.


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## Phased_Array

Lotsalumens,

Sans the control box it might be a little tricky without the 100v capacitor bank in there.
In the control box there is a capacitor bank and circuit board for the timer/diagnostics. Other than that it's all switches, which can be simplified without the diagnostics etc.

An on 'switch' - 24 volts - to the system mains (a relay)
Retract ir tube 'switch' +24v to it's motor, defaults to extended.

ignitor circuit 'on'
starter circuit 'on'
lamp 'on' - Here's where I might need the 'control box' capacitor bank or a 100v continuous source.


Focusing is +24v to the focus motor, looks to be either 'spot or wide' (?)
I don't know if I'm going to use the reflector distorting function or not yet. Otherwise a 'switch' for that +24v to the motor.

Greg


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## Carbonium

Phased_Array said:


> Hmmm...
> Today one sold on Ebay for $250... I bought it with no competing bids. Less than 150 views of the item for 10 days! I downloaded the gov't wiring diagrams and manuals beforehand to be sure I could hot wire it without the control boxes. :rock:
> 
> They're still out there.
> 
> Phased Array



I was going to bid on it but I held out. I was going to mount it on the back of my 36V Yamaha Electric golf cart. I can tap in at 24, 30 or 36 volts so the cart would be the power supply and portable roving unit. I could cruise around the desert where I live.

Let me know if you get it running and want to sell. I'm really looking for a working unit and would pay more for one. I just don't have the time to hunt for parts.


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## lotsalumens

I'd almost be inclined to disable the IR mode if you don't need it as well as the focusing. The "wide" beam is sort of an odd shape and is still pretty collimated. Simply being able to turn the light on narrow beam would be enough for me (basically the same as an advertising searchlight), but obviously it depends on your own needs.

What kind of power supply do you think you'll use?


cfb


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## Phased_Array

Lotsalumens,

I'm starting to look for a mil surplus power supply for testing and development. 

Yeah, I agree about disabling those functions too. 

Fell asleep reading the wiring diagrams I downloaded and it looks like I need that 100v from the control box cap bank to feed the lamp starter coil. To get the 40,000v spark.
Any guess what I could substitute for the 6 360 microfarad caps = 3500 volts
Or maybe bypass the wole thing and get 40000v to the lamp some other way to start it.
The lamp runs on 22-28 volts.

But the final use of the spotlight will be on the top of a M35A2 Deuce and a Half military truck, next to the 50cal M2HB. It has a 24v military electrical system not sure about the alternator output amps yet.

Phased Array


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## jim5

I don't understand why they would need that much capacitance to creat a starting arc unless there is a huge joule requirement. If that is not the case you could use an automotive ignition coil.


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## nc987

Can we get a close up shot of the reflector and lamp assembly, im just curious to see the design up close.

also what search terms are you using on ebay? I cant find any of these.


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## Phased_Array

Jim5,

My thoughts too. 

The 24 volts gets jumped to 100v, then charges the cap bank. This cap bank turns into 3500v, this charges the starter(ignitor) coil to get the 40,000v.

12v to 40,000v in one shot with a car ignition coil.

Phased Array


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## KDOG3

Good GAWD. I just HAVE to have one of those!


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## pathalogical

Have you discovered any new planets with it ? If so, they might name it after you !!!


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## cobb

That is neat, thanks for sharing. 

Although it does bring some questions to mind. Why would they need such a bright light if night vision and other stealth technology is used? Wouldnt this make them visable for miles? Ive seen some old tanks and other equipment, they have like dim lights with shields over them so they are not seen from the air.


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## lotsalumens

Here is one way that it was used:

http://www.ospreypublishing.com/title_detail.php?per=48&title=S8332&view=extract



cfb


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## Changchung

My neighbor annoys much to me, i love to put this light towards his window...


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## kyoorius

Wow, I wonder how long the bulb lasts and where one could find a replacement.

~Kyoorius


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## mattheww50

Phased_Array said:


> Lotsalumens,
> 
> I'm starting to look for a mil surplus power supply for testing and development.
> 
> Yeah, I agree about disabling those functions too.
> 
> Fell asleep reading the wiring diagrams I downloaded and it looks like I need that 100v from the control box cap bank to feed the lamp starter coil. To get the 40,000v spark.
> Any guess what I could substitute for the 6 360 microfarad caps = 3500 volts
> Or maybe bypass the wole thing and get 40000v to the lamp some other way to start it.
> The lamp runs on 22-28 volts.
> 
> But the final use of the spotlight will be on the top of a M35A2 Deuce and a Half military truck, next to the 50cal M2HB. It has a 24v military electrical system not sure about the alternator output amps yet.
> 
> Phased Array


The fact that there are 6 3500V 360mfd caps suggests to me that the starter might not be a coil at all. It may be Marx circuit (charge caps in parallel, discharge in series). YOu can delivery a a lot of joules with a Marx circuit, and it needs to be treated with a great deal of respect when it is that large. The biggest Marx circuit I have seen is a 400Kv unit that delivered 25ma. (10Kilowatts). It ran an X-ray tube...

In an arc tube that large, it is going to take good whack to get it to flash over AND leave enough ionized molecules around for the lower voltage arc to start up.


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## mdocod

Nice work on the death ray there.

Hope you don't live in an area full of UFO watchers. lol, they'll think you're being abducted. (it looks very X-files-ish)


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## lotsalumens

It does indeed! A friend of mine down south bought one as well, and borrowed my cables so that he could use his on Halloween (he does a huge extravaganza outside his house). He said it looked like a giant light saber going up into the clouds.


cfb


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## greenLED

That puppy has CPF 2006 calender written all over it!! :rock:


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## lotsalumens

Last night here in NYC near Lincoln Center they held an even called Winter's Eve, which is sort of a big nighttime block party involving a whole stretch of the west side. It starts with the lighting of the Lincoln Center tree and is a lot of fun (bands play in some of the stores, there are street performers, etc). Anyway they had three of those big 4-head xenon advertising searchlight rigs set up along Broadway and I had the opportunity to really examine the beams as they hit some of the taller buildings as well as clouds. Surprisingly, the beams were not quite as tight as I expected and had somewhat diffuse hotspots as they hit the buildings. No question that they are amazing lights, but the beam from this little tank light seems to be more tightly focused and collimated, resulting in a brighter more laser-like beam (smaller diameter though). Not what I expected!


cfb


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## WinstonSmith

Oh. My. God.

How many D-cells you say?


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## Lando

takes a tank just to carry them around so I would think quite a few :laughing:


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## Radio

Amazing!!!


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## BrockB

Wow!! I want two!


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## Visigothan

I've been lurking for a while, but this tank light is just too damn cool. I had to post and say WOW. I have to get myself one of these.


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## lotsalumens

Last summer a bunch of these lights in varying condition (and wildly varying prices!) turned up on ebay. Haven't seen any recently but I am sure some will turn up eventually.

Mine is in storage for the winter, but when I get it out again later this year I'll take a bunch more beamshots and post them. I've got to build another set of cables as well since I gave mine to a friend who bought the same model light. Got some major soldering to do...there are a lot of pins in those connectors!


cfb


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## turbodog

Quote stolen from:

http://arstechnica.com/journals/thumbs.ars/2006/1/4/2329


And in 1,250 years, some alien flying a starship in a distant galaxy will be blinded by an unknown light source, causing it to crash into a nearby moon. Reconstructing the path of the light source, our planet will be wiped out by a fleet of warships demanding restitution.


----------



## Radio

lotsalumens said:


> Last summer a bunch of these lights in varying condition (and wildly varying prices!) turned up on ebay. Haven't seen any recently but I am sure some will turn up eventually.
> 
> Mine is in storage for the winter, but when I get it out again later this year I'll take a bunch more beamshots and post them. I've got to build another set of cables as well since I gave mine to a friend who bought the same model light. Got some major soldering to do...there are a lot of pins in those connectors!
> 
> 
> cfb



Need any help? I think you said you were on LI or upstate NY


----------



## lotsalumens

Thanks for the offer! We live in NYC and the light is out at a shared family house near the end of LI. It actually only takes a few hours to make a cable set but it is a huge pain...not to mention expense with all the connectors costing about $500.


cfb


----------



## iNDiGLo

Where does the lanyard connect?


----------



## mwc-951

Most certainly a GB is in order for the tank light!


Check this one out.........

http://cgi.ebay.com/Navy-Naval-Flight-Deck-Runway-Landing-Flood-Light-NR_W0QQitemZ6593389311QQcategoryZ588QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## Glass

[Ode to Joy playing in background]

That is awesome!

Patrick


----------



## dwebb210

So... you got the small one? 

http://saturnsurplus.com/lights/search.htm


----------



## Daniel Ramsey

According to the Saturn Surplus they want $595 for that puppy, good price indeed!
Here is two of them on Ebay at a $1,000 and $1,100
http://i24.ebayimg.com/02/i/01/fb/d7/21_1.JPG
http://cgi.ebay.com/Infrared-Search...goryZ588QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://i24.ebayimg.com/03/i/04/16/16/e4_1_b.JPG
http://cgi.ebay.com/AN-VSS-1-V-2-IN...goryZ588QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## markdi

100 amps at 28 volts = more than 1kw.


----------



## lotsalumens

markdi said:


> 100 amps at 28 volts = more than 1kw.




Mark, 

That's not the same light. The VSS-1 is MUCH bigger and heavier than the VSS-3 that I have. It also pulls close to 4kW. Interestingly the candlepower rating is the same, probably because its beam is not as tight. 

Couple more photos of my VSS-3













cfb


----------



## LuxLuthor

*That looks a lot like the "Back to The Future" movie's Flux Capacitor.  *




http://electricmuseum.com/temp/searchlight/VSS3interior.jpg


----------



## lotsalumens

Doesn't it? The "Danger 50,000 volts" adds to the effect!


cfb


----------



## jeffroalpha700

Does anyone know how this compares to the Spectrolab Nightsun SX-16? Just curious as I have seen its performance on Denver's helicopter. I imagine it would have to be fairly similar. This is the link: http://ils.spectrolab.com/default.aspx


----------



## FiftyCalAl

tag


----------



## lotsalumens

Looks like the main difference between the SX-16 and the VSS-3 is the beamwidth and throw since they are designed for different kinds of use. The specs for the SX-16 say the beam diameter (maximum intensity not including spill) at 1km is 230 feet and the useful range for target identification is one mile. This makes sense for chasing suspects etc and it must really light up a decent sized area. The VSS-3 has a more collimated beam and is intended for target illumination at several miles for artillery. Documentation states that the beam can cause temporary flash blindness at 3000 meters (1.87 miles). Very neat technology in both lights!


cfb


----------



## jeffroalpha700

Awesome! And, I'm sure the VSS-3 costs a lot less.

Now I feel like I am getting a weak light when my BarnBurner arrives!


----------



## KevinL

lotsalumens said:


> Documentation states that the beam can cause temporary flash blindness at 3000 meters (1.87 miles). Very neat technology in both lights!
> cfb



Finally, a light where there won't be any whining "you can't temporarily disable an attacker with a light" 

Raising light to the level of a force option - 1kW at short range should cause more than just TEMPORARY disability.


----------



## Phased_Array

Lotsalumens,
Where are all your cables? :thinking: 
I finally scrounged up a mil-spec power supply. 

Did you ever wire up and use the remote control for your VSS3?  

I was starting to look for the connectors. 

Was wondering if the remote was useful to you at all, or if you had the connectors/cable for it. :naughty: 
It's the cable with the '18-1 10 pin Amphenol' conns.

Phased


----------



## fixman88

Wow!:wow: That thing there is God's Penlight!


----------



## lotsalumens

Phased Array,

Yes I got the remote working last year. Needed it to get the light fully operational. The remote lets you switch to infrared mode as well as adjust the beamwidth of the light. It also has a bunch of circuit test functions. There is also a secondary smaller remote with fewer functions (all redundant) presumably for the tank commander to use.

I gave my cable set to a good friend of mine last halloween for his light, so now I have to make myself another set (ugh...lots of soldering!). The light is currently in storage for the winter, so this spring I'll make the cables and hopefully have a bunch more beamshots by June when we are out there again. I want to get some shots showing the beam hitting a distant target. Just have to figure out where to do this I need a whole lot of open space.

CfB


----------



## liteglow

WOOOOOW !! dude  that is a NICE BEAM SHOOT !!!


But... when you got to heaven, GOD will say "DAMN YOU ARE THAT DUDE THAT DID BLIND ME WHILE I WAS DRIVING MY UNICORN" 


 

And then your going stright to hell......


----------



## Sigman

How the heck did I miss this thread?! 

I am truly humbled! We aren't worthy!!! 

AMAZING!!


----------



## RAF_Groundcrew

LuxLuthor said:


> *That looks a lot like the "Back to The Future" movie's Flux Capacitor.  *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://electricmuseum.com/temp/searchlight/VSS3interior.jpg




It could work like a 'flux cpacitor'..... touch the wrong thing in there, and you're *History* 

If it wasn't for the shipping to the UK, I'd be looking for one !


----------



## CarbonArc

anyone in georgia 



http://cgi.ebay.com/ZENON-SEARCHLIGHT-SHORT-ARE-FOR-TANK-28VDC-100AMPS_W0QQitemZ6610785763QQcategoryZ588QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## neodeemer

too heavy&large to me... :rock: :rock:


----------



## Phased_Array

And don't forget, we military xenon 'Tank Light' guys got Connie Rod to go to for 'technical assistance'. :naughty: 

Lotsalumens, check this PS out before powering up again!

Phased Array


----------



## RalphRussell

Wow, I spotted that very issue on eBay and bought it! I ran those same pages throught a copy machine and mailed them to lotsalumens. It was in B&W, now he can see Connie's outfit in color! My favorite line is "Operators and crew members don't mess with the window latch".


----------



## lotsalumens

Thanks guys for both the xerox and scan!!



cfb


----------



## tonyd

I thought I would join in the fun and get one. I also have the manual and schematics if needed. I am looking for a power source, and will likely disable the IR mode. I also have a 16" diameter SS tube which I will transfer the internal two when I get running.


----------



## lotsalumens

Hi Tony,

Did you buy a VSS-3 or one of the VSS-1's being sold by peakbeam?


cfb


----------



## tonyd

No A vss-3. The vss-1 is way large, and not as collmiated. I will likly be solicting help in getting in running, I'am a ChemE and never been great with electrical. I do have a new bulb installed and the schematics look straight forward. As you suggested on/off is really my only concern although the motor controls for focus do look like fun to play with. One of my litigator friends thinks me insane and past along several engineer jokes. My favorite is the engineer that comes upon a taking frog. The frog states that If you kiss me I will become a beautiful Princess. The engineer says fine and sticks the frog in his pocket. The frog cries out if you kiss me I will spent a week with you. The engineer takes the frog from his pocket looks and smiles and places the frog back into his pocket. The frog cries out again I will stay with you for a week and do what ever you like. The engineer again removes the frog and tells her, Hey I don't have time for a girl friend, but a talking frog is Kool. He then returns the frog to his pocket. At any rate I owe my friend for her "wit" and as such want to get this working so I can peel Paint off her house.


Thanks


----------



## lotsalumens

Well you've definitely come to the right place since there are a bunch of us with these lights. ShortArc is using a modular rectifier unit to power his VSS-1, so something like that could be an option. There are some Lucent 364B2 units rated at 100 amps and 29 volts which look promising:

http://search.ebay.com/ws/search/Sa...&sabdlo=&sabdhi=&fsop=1&fsoo=1&fcl=3&frpp=200

Might need some modifying for this use, but it could be a possibility. Haven't tried one myself. I know that the turn-on surge on my VSS-3 tends to trip the 75 amp breaker on my supply frequently, so a bit of excess current capability would be good.


cfb


----------



## lotsalumens

P.S. Can you tell me where you got the new bulb from? It's always good to have a spare.


----------



## Phased_Array

These bulbs are still for sale at $300. It's a mfg. who was bought by another mfg, and once again. Used in theatre lights currently too. New in box mil surplus? maybe at some point, $75 for the AN/VSS1's.

TONYD,
Let me know if you hotwire it up successfully, I'm missing the control box and we need to shoot a lot of joules(Marx Circuit in cb) into the lamp to get those 40,000 volts.


----------



## tonyd

Mine came with the new lamp, so I have to research where it came from. I will contact the seller. Thanks for the offers as I also do not have the control box. I was also curiuos if a simple 24 volt truck battery charger would work. Several charge at 50-60 Amps in 24 volt mode. The manual claims 58 amps max for this light although, as has been ststed it pulls more juice. How are you geater 100 volts to the ignitor?

Also I thought one thing about this light is the use of silver wire- I have cardis silver in my vacuum tube amp, but a giant flashlight? Just like a talking frog Kool.


----------



## ZeissOEM2

edit


----------



## Phased_Array

TONYD,
Yes the batt charger has the amps, I looked into that just before lucking out on a mil surplus power supply. I will be mounting mine also on a deuce and a half which has a 24v system, so I need two power cords. The wire would be cool I think I calculated 6ga for my 10ft runs.


----------



## lotsalumens

Hi everyone,

Since we may soon have some more of these lights working, I just wanted to post a safety reminder about using short arc searchlights like these. Bear in mind that the beam cranks out both intense visible lights as well as UV and can cause permanent eye damage much the way an arc welder might. The last thing any of us want are cataracts or other long-term damage just because we got careless and thought it would be ok to look at the arc. 

Same thing with friends, family, and particularly any children who might be around (very important!!). These folks would have no idea what walking up to the light and taking a look inside could do to them, so it is the owner/operator's responsibility to make sure this can not happen. Just imagine going off to check out the beam from a distance, and coming back to find one of your kids, or a neighbor's kid, a friend, etc., trying to look into the front of the light to see how it works. Yikes!

Lastly be aware of the very real explosion hazard of the high-pressure bulb. Particularly for the units which don't have cases. For a whole lot more info on short arc lamps, plus some sound safety info visit this site:

http://members.misty.com/don/shortarc.html

Be safe!


cfb


----------



## tonyd

Thanks for all the info. I own a lab in which one of our instruments is an ICP-MS. Suffice to say that the plasma torch on this thing is protected as the temperture is 10,000 C quite a bright light if little throw. Needs a radio frequency source to ignite the plasma.


----------



## Jazz

Good point Charles about being safe. These are not toys and yeah it's scarry the damage they can do to you or your love ones.


----------



## bombelman

Nice project guys !

Be safe !

Cheers !


----------



## Phased_Array

Connie Rod says I've got to revive the venerable AN/VSS3 thread. The one that started it all.











Phased Array


----------



## Jazz

Where did you find Connie Rod?

Nice tripod mounted light. Got any pics of it in action?


----------



## lotsalumens

Phased, very cool tripod indeed! 


For anyone new to this thread, there are some VSS-3 beamshots at the beginning of the thread.


Charles


----------



## Phased_Array

Just a little more welding on the elevation mechanism and I'll be done with the AN/VSS3 mount. The trick was to be able to readily move it from the truck to the tripod using standard military mount components. 

Charles, did you get a new set of cables for yours?


----------



## lotsalumens

I have the light and panel connectors, and am just waiting for Powell to deliver the two power supply connectors so I can make a set. I'll have to ask my friend in Georgia (who has my first set) if he has any plans to fire up his light up on the 4th.

Man, all these neat looking tripods are making me jealous. Might have to kludge something together. I like your idea of a Rapid Deployment Insane Intensity Tactical Light Source (RDIITLS) that can be taken off the truck and used in the field when needed!


Charles


----------



## RAF_Groundcrew

Tank Searchlights ROCK !.... but I could never afford the shipping :thumbsdow


----------



## RichTheBuilder

I'm Glad to see one of these is still working! In the 70's and 80's I worked for ITT manufacturing the lamps for these type of devices. There were 2 of us working on those lamps. The lamps were all hand made we did the Glass/ Quarts work and all the assembly and testing.


----------



## tvodrd

Hi Rich, and welcome to CPF!!!!! I hope I have it straight, Varo corp was aquired by Numax Electronics, which was then aquired by Litton, Which was aquired by ITT and subsequently by Hughes. (Prolly not in the right order :green: ) I am very interested in the history of these things, and hope you can shed some light! (Please forgive pun!) You wouldn't have a spare lamp laying around?  How high is the pressure of the Xenon fill?

Larry


----------



## lotsalumens

Rich,

Welcome to the forum! It's great to have someone here who was so involved in this technology. We'd all be fascinated in hearing anything you'd like to share. Were there any spectacular failures during testing?

Cheers,

Charles


----------



## batvette

Ummmm..... I have, um, a question. 


you guys don't really have anything even vaguely resembling a PRACTICAL USE for these things, do you? 


Ha. I didn't think so. 

Send them to me. Now. :rock:


----------



## Ericsc

Anyone looking to sell one? If anyone is looking to sell theirs, I am looking for a functional an/vss-3a and the required power supply. I have a generator to run it - just looking for everything from the gennie on out. 

Anyone interested in selling? If so, please drop me a lineat ericsc at gmail (dot) com.

Thanks!

-Eric


----------



## Scout

lotsalumens said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Here is something fun I picked up earlier this year, and just got working a couple of months ago. It is an AN/VSS-3 1kW xenon arc tank searchlight with remote focus and infrared mode. The light is a nice compact case at approximately 16" square in front and maybe 24" deep and 65lbs or so (says 75lbs on top but feels much lighter). It took a long time to find the correct military connectors, make the cables, and find a suitable supply, but it was worth it. I just thought the folks here might enjoy some beamshots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These lights have been showing up on ebay frequently lately. This one was brand new, packed in 1980, and still in original crates with waterproof airtight foil bags around everything. The supply I found is a 28v 60amp DC unit used by the Marines to power a big radio set. It is the most incredibly overbuilt and indestructible component I have ever seen. I honestly believe you could send it down a flight of stairs with no ill effects (to the supply that is!). Gotta love ebay!
> 
> cfb




Hello everybody! First post here, been reading this site every now and the n for a ~year or so. I'm living in Finland. 

Is there any information about sellers for these in europe? I really would like to get one for my truck, Former Swedish military vehicle
-teppo


----------



## bombelman

Welcome to CPF, SCOUT !

I advise you to read all pages in this thread, some discuss about how to get such a Light, and some discuss all the warnings one should know about operating such a light (UV-issues and such).

It does look like yous Military Vehicle might be suited for such a light 
I wish you luck on your journey !

Cheers !


----------



## Illum

i forgot about this thread....
thanks for reviving this 1 year old thread.



btw: Welcome to CPF!
mind your wallet at all times


----------



## gdict

I saw Teppo's (Scout) post on the Volvo 303 mailing list and that got me wanting one of these things again. I have no idea what I would use it for, but it sure would be fun!

Teppo, if you find one, have it sent to me in California and then take a vacation and carry it home as luggage. 

While you're here, we can go visit my Finnish bartender Pauli Partii.

Cheers!

Greg


----------



## LowTEC

Ever watch ID4 anyone?:lolsign:


----------



## tvodrd

That lotsalumens guy made me buy two of the suckers, and I'm still in the process of returning the favor! (I'm doing a https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/118432]mount for him too. I drug mine out to the Landers shack, and lit-up a bunch of folks camped at Means Dry Lake at ~2.5 miles. I received a high-power green laser in reply!! (Shined mine back.  ) I have a friend who is .5mi line-of-sight and have managed to annoy with the Maxabeam  , who stopped by the following morning expressing thanks that he and wife weren't "alien-abducted!." These things are awsome! (And I will add scarce, as I have had a "tank searchlight" ebay notify for the last 6 months with no real hits!)

Edit: A pic.





Larry


----------



## BBL

That has to flashoholism in its final stage... damn, i'd like to own such a light.


----------



## cy

wow....


----------



## lotsalumens

The thread lives again! I know a bunch of people have gotten these lights this past year. Anyone have any beamshots to share?

Cheers,

Charles


----------



## lotsalumens

P.S. Larry, what kind of runtimes are you getting with the two batteries?


Charles


----------



## Lightmania

Oh, wow.. the beam almost look solid. And that's a good picture, too. Look like something out of a movie. 

Love to see more pictures of this, too. 

Lightmania


----------



## lotsalumens

Lightmania,

Here are a couple of beamshots that I posted over the summer in a showdown thread between this light and some 35w and 50w handheld HID lights. It was just for fun. My VSS-3A is now packed up for the winter unfortunately.











Charles


----------



## Lightmania

Lol, that is just too cool! Thanks!

Lightmania


----------



## srvctec

Those beamshots are freakin' awesome!!:goodjob:


----------



## jzmtl

I linked this thread on another fourm, someone replied with this:


----------



## tvodrd

Hi Charles,

I am running two seriesed Interstate Megatron group 27 deep cycles and runtime is at least 40 minutes. I base that on having lit the thing here in CM on the 4th of July:




That's the moon and a planet to the left, and that's what the beam looks like in person. Out in the desert over Thanksgiving, I "shot-down" a number of moths. Keep the beam on one, and they just spiral down to the ground! You can do it with a Maxabeam or 35W HID also. Freekin' lamp exploded in my MB on that trip. 

Edit: I gotta cut me a bat-signal template to fit the 14" aperature of the sucker. I think it might actually work!

I also have a Vss-1 which I test fired ~month ago. When I get the mount built, there will be a "shootout" as my genset and the 2 deepcycles have the AMPS if you know what I mean.  (~200)

Larry


----------



## Ra

tvodrd said:


> Edit: I gotta cut me a bat-signal template to fit the 14" aperature of the sucker. I think it might actually work! Larry




Sorry Larry,, THAT WON'T WORK !!! That only works in the movies !!!

Nice beam tho....

Regards,

Ra.


----------



## Lightmania

re: batman. yep, another fella tried it and I provided a template. Didn't worked. Oh well. See here for the result.

Lightmania


----------



## leukos

I think you would need an etched optic like laser pointers use.


----------



## Ra

leukos said:


> I think you would need an etched optic like laser pointers use.



Yep, but only with a laser, that would do the trick !!

Lasers have ultra high surface brightness so they are able to throw miles with only a few mm. aperture, holographic optics only work with small apertures !!

A searchlight needs to have a much, much bigger aperture to reach the clouds. The projection of the holographic image will propably show but very faint and full of colors !!! Remember, a laser is monochromatic. If your lightsource is not monochromatic, holographic optics will extract the light in a color-spectrum and not give a sharp image because the holographic effect depends on the wavelength of the light.

Another way to project an image at infinity (clouds) is to form the image in the focus of the reflector: Impossible with the spotlights and searchlights we are playing with, because we have the lamp in the focus!

If you want to project a nice image on the clouds you need to make a searchlight-projector with two foci! One for the lamp and one for the image-projection! Call it a giant slide-projector..

Regards,

Ra.


----------



## Phased_Array




----------



## Phased_Array

It's alive... it's alive...
After a year of preparation I've finally got it lit. I had acquired two projector units over time but unfortunately one of them was DOA.  





The PP8474/G power supply is 'only' drawing 40 amps at 25 volts.





Beamshot of 50feet at the workshop wall. Safety goggles were needed even for the 'reflected' light beam. The flash blindness was intense.  If you look closely you can see the light beam cross the dark masonite plywood sitting against the far wall. The lower projector is the one that's lit. 





The black projector unit is toast. However... the mechanicals work, fan, IR lense. I'll have to break out the maintenance manual. The (white)control box sits in a mil-spec transit case(foreground) that I rigged up, it also carries the heavy cabling. 





Stepped down the aperature for this beamshot. Couldn't wait for the last of the connectors, so the remote has to be wired up later. 





Ultimately, this setup won't be sitting on wastebaskets and workbenches. :rock:


----------



## ShortArc

Great!!!
What power supply did you use?
Looks like you have two VSS-3...even better...


----------



## Phased_Array

Power Supply is mil-spec PP-8474, 110 to [email protected] amp.

The black projector unit was of questionable use when I got it anyway(In the end, when powered up, it didn't work).
But the bulb from it worked in the other green unit, so I have a spare bulb at the least.

On the black unit the fan turned on though, and the IR cone moved in and out, so I might troubleshoot it later.


----------



## tvodrd

Congrat's, Phased! Wait'll you get a chance to play with it outside! 

Larry


----------



## PapikAldo

I want one for me too !!!


----------



## PapikAldo

I want one for me too !!!


----------



## billhess

here's a question, can i hook up a vs3a without a battery. I mean can i just power one straight from a 100amp 24v alternator or do I have to have a battery in between?


----------



## lotsalumens

Great photos Phased_Array and congratulations on getting it running!



billhess said:


> here's a question, can i hook up a vs3a without a battery. I mean can i just power one straight from a 100amp 24v alternator or do I have to have a battery in between?



That's certainly plenty of current. There should be no need for a battery.


Charles


----------



## rdh226

lotsalumens said:


> Great photos Phased_Array and congratulations on getting it running!
> 
> 
> 
> That's certainly plenty of current. There should be no need for a battery.
> 
> 
> Charles


A [typical] alternator is a very dirty output, the battery acts like a filter capacitor to
protect "sensitive" circuitry from spikes/etc.

Just a thought . . .

-RDH


----------



## BVH

If your 24 Volt alternator puts out 28-30 volts similar to how a 12 Volt alternator puts out 14-16 Volts and you keep it running at or near its rated RPM, then I don’t think you’ll have a problem. As Lotsoflumens said, there’s no problem with current/amps. It’s the voltage. I'm by no means an expert but I would think you might have a problem with just 24.


----------



## fire-stick

My 6 year old nephew says, "The light passes trees and it blinds your eyes and this light... um... I wanna make it camo."

He was amazed that it shot higher than the trees. Thanks for the cool beamshot.


----------



## WJM

BVH said:


> If your 24 Volt alternator puts out 28-30 volts similar to how a 12 Volt alternator puts out 14-16 Volts and you keep it running at or near its rated RPM, then I don’t think you’ll have a problem. As Lotsoflumens said, there’s no problem with current/amps. It’s the voltage. I'm by no means an expert but I would think you might have a problem with just 24.



Without a battery, you will also inadvertently face the worst-case scenario of an alternator one day, an alternator that has nothing to feed, blowing up its circuitry.
(pulling the battery-clamps while the engine is running is a general bad thing for similar reasons)


----------



## tomcat017

This is the first time I saw this thread. I just finished removing my lower jaw from the keyboard. I think I need one of these....


----------



## BionicSniper

that is the most awesome thing that i have ever seen


----------



## ddaadd

I have an AN/VSS-3a on the way and need some info on sourcing the connectors to cable from the light to the control box, such as part numbers and suppliers.

I would like to pass on the satisfaction of researching from scratch to find these, I promise it won't reduce my enthusiasm for getting it running....

I have seen them mentioned here so could any of you that have found these connectors help a guy out?

TIA


----------



## tvodrd

I used the 90deg, split backshell type:

2-pin main power into control box
Amphenol# 97-3108B-32-5S Allied Cat# 605-7143 $54.12

23-pin control box end
Amphenol# 97-3108B-32-6P Allied Cat# 605-7242 $43.55

23-pin searchlight end
Amphenol# 97-3108B-32-6S Allied Cat# 605-7241 $57.53

The cable clamps with rubber inserts are sold seperately
Amphenol# 97-3057-1020-1 Allied cat# 714-2566 $12.32

There's a pic of my cable here: http://tvodrd.smugmug.com/photos/175909780_kpoNN-O.jpg

Larry


----------



## Hallis

jzmtl said:


> I linked this thread on another fourm, someone replied with this:



hahahaa,, perfect.


----------



## ddaadd

tvodrd said:


> I used the 90deg, split backshell type:
> 
> 2-pin main power into control box
> Amphenol# 97-3108B-32-5S Allied Cat# 605-7143 $54.12
> 
> 23-pin control box end
> Amphenol# 97-3108B-32-6P Allied Cat# 605-7242 $43.55
> 
> 23-pin searchlight end
> Amphenol# 97-3108B-32-6S Allied Cat# 605-7241 $57.53
> 
> The cable clamps with rubber inserts are sold seperately
> Amphenol# 97-3057-1020-1 Allied cat# 714-2566 $12.32
> 
> There's a pic here showing the ones I listed.
> 
> Larry



Thank You Larry!

Very much appreciated........


----------



## ddaadd

I have tank lights! Thanks billhess!......

And now of course I have more questions....:naughty:

I've not seen any mention of this connector, tucked away in the bottom of the control box, it basically changes the attachment style of the connector to a coarse male thread vs. fine, I still bought connectors as I dont want to scavenge this...


----------



## BVH

ddaadd, did you order your -3A connectors from Allied and have they arrived yet? I ordered last Monday morning and they've not arrived yet. The rep said they were in-stock but needed to be assembled. She thought they might have shipped by last Friday but I didn't receive any confirmation that they did.


----------



## ddaadd

BVH said:


> ddaadd, did you order your -3A connectors from Allied and have they arrived yet? I ordered last Monday morning and they've not arrived yet. The rep said they were in-stock but needed to be assembled. She thought they might have shipped by last Friday but I didn't receive any confirmation that they did.




I just placed the order a couple days ago, looks like a little bit of a wait then...


----------



## ShortArc

ddaadd,
I have a several of these lights now and control boxes but have never seen this little gem! Lucky find!!!
Willem



ddaadd said:


> I have tank lights! Thanks billhess!......
> 
> And now of course I have more questions....:naughty:
> 
> I've not seen any mention of this connector, tucked away in the bottom of the control box, it basically changes the attachment style of the connector to a coarse male thread vs. fine, I still bought connectors as I dont want to scavenge this...


----------



## tvodrd

I opened the control box for my mounted light in order to rotate the main power connector 90deg for cleaner routing of the cables, and nothing like that inside. That light is an earlier 3A with the runtime meter in the back rather than above the reflector. I just popped-open my newer one and no joy.

The ring that comes with the searchlight's connector from Allied is a much finer thread than the connector on the searchlight. I've recut the rings on 4 of them so they sorta fit. It appears to be for the control box end.

Larry


----------



## Nereus

lotsalumens said:


> .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Your HID has an incredible ability to "throw up"!





-N


----------



## ddaadd

BVH said:


> ddaadd, did you order your -3A connectors from Allied and have they arrived yet? I ordered last Monday morning and they've not arrived yet. The rep said they were in-stock but needed to be assembled. She thought they might have shipped by last Friday but I didn't receive any confirmation that they did.




My order was being held up for the 2 pin connector, which is backordered.
I had them ship the rest today, ETA on the 2 pin connector is April 15th.
I can improvise something till it arrives, won't slow me down much, I do want it for the final assembly though....

A question about the control box please......:huh2:

I am apparently without the 3 small indicator lights that go in the top,
looks like a screw in device, what exactly are they, please anyone??


----------



## BVH

If no one does it by then, I'll bring home a camera tomorrow and snap some shots of the control box with lamps installed. There are three as you say located per below:

Lamp on - Green indicator light
Overtemp - Red indicator light
Circuit test - Clear indicator light

I'll take the cover off the box and snap a shot of the underside of the indicator lamps and the wiring.

I got the same info from Allied today. Held due to one insert. I also had them ship everything else.


----------



## ddaadd

BVH said:


> If no one does it by then, I'll bring home a camera tomorrow and snap some shots of the control box with lamps installed. There are three as you say located per below:
> 
> Lamp on - Green indicator light
> Overtemp - Red indicator light
> Circuit test - Clear indicator light
> 
> I'll take the cover off the box and snap a shot of the underside of the indicator lamps and the wiring.
> 
> I got the same info from Allied today. Held due to one insert. I also had them ship everything else.





Thanks BVH!.....

I dont think it neccessary to remove the cover really, I have the bulbholders mounted thru and wired ok. 

It must be a replaceable part that screws in, I can see the center post.
In the back of my mind I'm thinking LED, not sure if I read it or not, I can't find a reference. I may even need to figure out the voltage and current ratings to get replacements.

Here is what I have.....


----------



## tvodrd

The three indicator lights are dimmable by rotating the knobs that hold the actual bulbs. The dimming assembly unscrews. I think there's a link somewhere in these halls to a schematic which might help determine their voltage and maybe even part#.

Larry


----------



## sims2k

:laughing: I would definitely want one ... for my truck. Looks like a mighty light saber... Too heavy for use as a work light...


----------



## ddaadd

We have ignition!.......... X 2

Camphone really flared the 6" hotspot....wow!

Amazingly, the "backup" unit seems better than the "fresh refurb" one.....

Backup on left, Refurb on right, I finally located the tiny hour meters up
and to the left looking thru the lens, (power down first please)..........
2hrs on the backup, 8hrs on the refurb.........





Feeling very good after repairing a couple burnt components in the control panel.....:naughty:...... Thanks billhess and ShortArc !!

So much more to do after the down an dirty test fire.......

Found info on the indicator lenses and lamps finally in a manual, now to find them.....

It will all wait as I celebrate 26yrs with my lovely wife, I know where my light shines brightest.......


----------



## Daekar

Oh my good God! I don't know how I missed this thread! My girlfriend was telling me I needed to find something to mount on her pickup when she gets one, and I think this might qualify...


----------



## tvodrd

Congrats, ddaadd! :thumbsup: Lighting one for the first time does give one a warm-and-fuzzy! 

Larry


----------



## guiri

lotsalumens said:


> Problem is that there are houses on the other side.



I don't see the problem. You open up a "we come to your house" tanning salon.

Simply put, you go to the people's house across the water and sign them up and then they just stand in the windows at night while you shine this lil' thing at them for a few minutes.

Voila, beamshots AND cash! 

George


----------



## Icer

Heh, very nice beam!


----------



## BVH

I'd really love one more VSS-3a control box. (Don't care about the small remote box) Anyone got an extra not powering a light?

If not, please keep an eye out for me.


----------



## BVH

I approached a company that Mtbkndad found that repaired two of the -3a control boxes for the Coast Guard. They had no boxes unfortunately. I have asked them if they would repair boxes for individuals should we need any of ours repaired. They answered in less than an hour on a Sunday, WOW!


----------



## tvodrd

BVH said:


> I approached a company that Mtbkndad found that repaired two of the -3a control boxes for the Coast Guard. They had no boxes unfortunately. I have asked them if they would repair boxes for individuals should we need any of ours repaired. They answered in less than an hour on a Sunday, WOW!



Gotta link? 

It's interesting, I have a bunch of VSS-1 control boxes, and I got the first one from a guy in Israel off ebay. I hope that one of these days they'll show up.

Larry


----------



## BVH

Here ya go!

http://www.electricexchange.com/repair_history.htm

One down side, they said they would need a 3a light shipped to them with the control box in order to diagnose and repair the box. I would guess the same may apply for the -1, which would really complicate things. They also said they have been "squirreling away" fans and other parts for the 3a.


----------



## tvodrd

Thanks much! My 2nd light/control box is a brand new one from the my alma mater, the USMC.  (That's the one I'm fitting the tripod kits to.)

Larry


----------



## lotsalumens

Just fired up the tank light last night (6/30) for the first time this year. It performed quite well despite the incredibly bright moon (it was a gorgeous night). Next weekend I am going to bring it out again and try to get some new beamshots for this thread using my swell new D80. Fun with photons!



Charles


----------



## billhess

selling mine:


http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?p=2040531#post2040531


----------



## BVH

The drilling kit is packed and ready for a label. It was very easy to do. The hardest part was A - filing down the vertical legs I purchased myself to fit in the square tubing in Larry’s kit. One fit perfect and two had to be filed quite a bit. Threading the 24 holes was easy, but tedious. Larry should get a medal for all the holes he threaded. As Larry suggested, I pulled the front window out which made taking the electronics package out of the can, much easier, same with getting it back in. It really does remind me of a small gas turbine sitting out of the can. Using the drill template and the hole punch was super easy. Both sides probably took me no more than 10 minutes. All the milled pieces fit perfectly together to form the yolk and putting the light in the yolk was also a snap. I couldn’t have asked for a better made, custom kit. Larry, your work is fantastic!! Thank you so much! Next up?






















Tomorrow I'll put the ***'y on the tripod and mount the control box. Then I get to make my second cable with 46 solder joints!


----------



## tvodrd

Thanks, Bob!! Being able to rapidly aim the suckers is really beneficial when shooting down moths! 

Larry


----------



## LuxLuthor

LOL! Man, what a labor of love. Great....but lots of work.


----------



## ShortArc

Looking good Bob!
I see some also received their second Locator! Was it new old stock?
Willem.


----------



## tvodrd

I have a new photo host, and there are some pics of the light's internals. It has all the pics for the assembly instructions.

8PM edit: The site doesn't appear to be Firefox friendly, and locks mine up. I have to use IE to upload/view without things locking-up. I run 2.0.0.4 Any OT feedback would be appreciated. 

Larry


----------



## BVH

A heads up to VSS-3a owners. When I re-installed the back end of my light yesterday, I noticed a little rattling in it but was done for the day. Went back today and took it off. Held it over a clean area of the garage floor and shook it. A few pieces of what looks to be glass fell out. It's definitely not front window glass nor pieces from the quartz lamp. However, once this was all out, the ***'y still rattled. First, I noticed that the philipps screw holding the fan motor to the exhaust ducting was very loose. Tightened it. Still rattled. Found one of the screws attaching the resistor was a full three turns loose and the washer was rattling. Checked the other 7 or nine screws and every one was between 3/4 and 1 turn loose. When you doing the mod, check out your 'back end" for tightness.

Larry, as far as viewing with the latest FF browser, no problems for me.


----------



## lotsalumens

Thanks for the heads up. I'll definitely make sure everything is tight when I have my light apart.

Larry, your site worked ok for me using Firefox on a mac.


Charles


----------



## DiCEMAN

That thing looks so powerful.....
I reckon that if you mount it on the front of your car / 4wd... the amount of Photons coming out the front will actually slow you down.....:devil:

Sensational !

DiCEMAN


----------



## BVH

Yes, I noticed a drop in miles per gallon of about 1.5......:nana:


----------



## BVH

Lotsalumens asked what I used to protect my cable bundles. here's a pic of the shrink fabric I used. I really like this stuff. It's pretty beefy thick.

















Hard to find. Found it here:

Delcity.net

8 ea. 902 1" Fabric Shrink Tube, 2-ft Pack (1 MIN) $4.65 $37.20 

8 ea. 903 1-1/2" Fabric Shrink Tube, 2-ft Pack (1 M$5.08 $40.64


----------



## tvodrd

Wow, never seen the stuff before! I used teflon, spiral-slit tubing, and it works, but looks a little hokey.

Larry


----------



## lotsalumens

I used some split plastic cable bundling sleeves on mine, but they are a bit stiff and not really the ideal solution. I like that fabric. Whatever I replace mine with however would have to fit over the connectors at each end (no 90 degree connectors on mine at least), or be split, since I sure don't want to make new cables.

Regarding the drilling fixture, if nobody needs it immediately I am going to wait until the trunnions arrive so I can do the drilling and trunnion installation at the same time. My addled brain did not initially register that if I did the drilling first, the light would have to stay disassembled for a couple of weeks. 

Charles


----------



## BVH

The 1 1/2" material might just fit if you take apart the connector via the snap ring and remove the threaded ring? It'll be close. It shrinks down to 3/4 " which is more than enough for a snug finished product. This stuff stays flexible, too.


----------



## lotsalumens

Thanks I'll take a look at the connectors this weekend. Might be an option!

Charles


----------



## ShortArc

Welding cable covers is another option. They come with a zipper or velcro and are durable, abrasion resistant and spark proof (some of them fire proof).
Willem.


----------



## lotsalumens

Thanks Willem. I just ordered one from weldingdepot.com. I like the idea of being able to zip and unzip if repairs or mods are needed.


Charles


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic

Cool EDC light!


----------



## lotsalumens

Hi all,

My tripod legs arrived from that ebay auction. First time I have seen this 80/20 stuff up close. It is really heavy duty! My kit should arrive on Tuesday, so next weekend I'll be moving it all out to our vacation place where the light is and doing the drilling and assembly. I'll send off the drilling kit to the next recipient that monday.


Charles


----------



## tvodrd

That Molex Fabrifit looks bitchin, but you would need a 3' length for the box-to-light cable. Mine crudely measures ~30" but the stuff shows a 20% length shrinkage. Ain't about to buy a 100' roll.

Larry


----------



## BVH

I just bought multiple 2' lengths and overlapped it. It doesn't look bad. Can't see it going 60 MPH!


----------



## BVH

I've thought about this for a while but haven't figured out why. When I had my VSS-3a's and lit one up, I frequently saw what Larry is talking about - shooting down moths. When I'm using my carbon arc, it does not have the same effect. Bugs fly through the beam unaffected (except when grabbed as a snack by a bat).


----------



## lotsalumens

Interesting observation BVH. I wonder if it has something to do with the width of the beam. I find that I can shoot down moths with a handheld HID as well as my VSS-3.

I haven't been on the forum in a while. Do you have any beamshots of that 60" monster posted?

Cheers,

Charles


----------



## BVH

Not yet, Charles. I'm not a camera person and don't want lousy beam shoots posted. I was hoping to go to the last L.A. meet and have Mr. Ted Bear and/or Mtbkndad take some but I had a light job come up. One of these days, Mtbkndad and I will have to head north a little ways to get some shots of his VSS-3 and my CA where we can feel comfortable pointing it at something terrestrial in addition to in the air.


----------



## DM51

BVH said:


> One of these days, Mtbkndad and I will have to head north a little ways to get some shots of his VSS-3 and my CA where we can feel comfortable pointing it at something terrestrial in addition to in the air.


Lol, you'll need to hire the Grand Canyon for the day, or somewhere fair-sized like that. Think big!


----------



## lotsalumens

BVH said:


> Not yet, Charles. I'm not a camera person and don't want lousy beam shoots posted.



Looking forward to the whenever you do them. Thanks for reviving this two year old thread as well. 

May everyone have an enlightening holiday and New Year!!


Charles Brush


----------



## mtbkndad

lotsalumens said:


> Looking forward to the whenever you do them. Thanks for reviving this two year old thread as well.
> 
> May everyone have an enlightening holiday and New Year!!
> 
> 
> Charles Brush



I have a couple cool shots that will be posted from the shootout the other night. They are not long distance, but did turn out nice.

Take Care,
mtbkndad :wave:


----------



## Alan B

Wonder if the bug shoot-downs are due to more IR in these beams...

-- Alan


----------



## tvodrd

Even though the lights have an infrared mode provided by a motorized IR filter which telescopes the lamp, there's not much heat coming out the front. You can hold your hand in the beam without discomfort.

Larry


----------



## tvodrd

Bumping this for an observation: I drug mine up to the So. Cal get-together at Griffith Park, and after less than half an hour of runtime on 2 group 27 Megatron deep cycles, it started rapidly strobing! (off/on/off/on....) I shut it down immediately. That was my brand new USMC light on it's first outing. Back home, I recharged the batts and no strobing. If your battery voltage drops sufficiently, the light strobes! (At least mine did.) One of my 2 deep cycles has less capacity than the other. Thought others would like to know. 

Larry


----------



## 65535

Larry good to know that was only low battery voltage, you might consider picking one of these up, it will handle up to 100 amps and 60 volts, could be useful in keeping the voltage in check, and how many watt hours you are using, you could even put it on during the charge cycle and figuring out a reasonable estimate for capacity. Something worth checking out I think.


----------



## tvodrd

Those are only rated 50 Amps continuous. Uncle Sam says the VSS-3A does [email protected] (It's prolly less @24V/whatever on the seriesed deep cycles. :shrug: ) I have a 100A shunt and analog ammeter I haven't tried yet to get a better picture as to what is really going on. :shrug:

Larry


----------



## Phased_Array

Well... Newark Electronics has had my two pin power connectors 'back ordered' for 26 months now. I gave up and cancelled the order after 12 months, but still really needed them. :sleepy:

At last they came in, I finally got to order them and installed them on the 24 volt slave cable on my military Deuce and a half truck. And also on the 110AC to 24VDC military 100AMP power supply cord, finally the AN/VSS3A is done!

BTW there is one connector left in stock at Newark if anyone needs one! The next ones may take a couple years.:rock:

90deg, split backshell type:
2-pin main power into the control box
Amphenol# 97-3108B-32-5S


----------



## BVH

CONGRATS!

Allied Electronics was quite a bit faster for my 3 separate orders of VSS-1 and -3 connectors. First two orders were shipped within a month. Last order was a 6-month back order.


----------



## Phased_Array

BVH,
I guess we're members of a pretty exclusive club, parts are hard to find.


----------



## tvodrd

In the effort to get my first one up and running my sales guy at Allied Electronics linked me to a competitor that had one I needed in stock! :bow: I can run them down if somebody needs. Their price was significantly higher than Allied, and in line with Newark.

Larry


----------



## Phased_Array

BTW,
Has anyone wired the smaller remote control box, I wondered what gauge wire to use. I couldn't find the specs in any of the 3 manuals printed for the system.
Usually most military vehicle wiring is 14 gauge but that seems heavy, any ideas?


----------



## BVH

I'm fairly sure I used 14. I'll check later today.


----------



## tvodrd

Phased_Array said:


> BTW,
> Has anyone wired the smaller remote control box, I wondered what gauge wire to use. I couldn't find the specs in any of the 3 manuals printed for the system.
> Usually most military vehicle wiring is 14 gauge but that seems heavy, any ideas?



I have the connectors but haven't made a cable (freebie from work.) I *think* 18ga should be fine- it's what I used for all but 4 of the conductors from the control box to the light. (2x #4, 2x #12, 19x #18.) I based that on the gauges inside the light's connector. A quick glance at the control box I have apart reveals all the connections to J2 to be even smaller than 18ga!!

Larry


----------



## Phased_Array

I went with the 16ga heavy "outer insulation" tray cable. Sort of difficult to squeeze into the connectors but worked out ok in the end.


----------



## Gotham

I know I am a little late in this thread but I must say that is one amazing toy to have. I know a few people have asked where they can get one or something similar. I saw this on eBay with the title "1942, 60", Searchlight, Control Box, Search Light, GE" and thought I would share

http://cgi.ebay.com/1942-60-Searchl...eZWD1VQQtrksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## billhess

I have them for sale


[email protected]


----------



## baterija

KevinL said:


> That's not a light, that's an energy weapon with some of the most awe-inspiring beamshots I have ever seen. :bow: :bow: :bow:



Little story from someone I know who was a tanker when the searchlights were still mounted...

It was a dark and scary night of training, filled with things that went bump, and who's boots went crunch, in the night. This young platoon leader devised a plan to handle the infantry sneaking up on his 4 tanks. He issued the orders for all of his tanks to prepare. Then at his command 4 of these lights turned on and swept back and forth through the target area. The couple of sets of early night vision were actually damaged before they stopped working. Infantry were seen running like roaches when the light comes on - frequently into trees and bushes their formerly night adjusted eyes could no longer see. A couple seconds of searchlight ended the whole attack and training exercise.

A whole company of troops sweeping the area later with D cell anglehead lights was anticlimactic in comparison. They needed to find all the equipment, including weapons, they had dropped in their panic and shock though.

Truly a light saber indeed


----------



## maxa beam

I hate to necropost, but it would be easy to mount that to the top of a car with some high-torque servos and a radio. And magnets. The ultimate headlight?


----------



## wojtek_pl

Awww... The pics are gone from the first post...


----------



## lotsalumens

wojtek_pl said:


> Awww... The pics are gone from the first post...



Fixed it!


----------



## wojtek_pl

Excellent !! Thank you !
:thanks: :goodjob: :rock:


----------



## The Light!

OH. MY. GOD. 
That thing is awesome! 
This makes me rethink plans on my "impossible dream" modded Land Rover for when I'm older! Loving it! 
Perhaps my next impossible dream will be a carbon arc mounted on a Perentie?


----------



## Metatron

bloody awesome light there, but i imagine tis a brave tank crew nowadays, cranking that up at night


----------



## LightSward

Awesome light! I'd like one of those.:twothumbs


----------



## Richie086

This is the first time I've seen this Arc Tank light thread. Since it's from 09-12-2005, it makes sense why. 

This is the first time I've seen a light saber that can shoot a mile-high super narrow beam. Amazing :thumbsup:


----------



## BVH

I really enjoyed my tinkering time with my VSS-1 and VSS-3s! Awesom light sabres they are!


----------



## guiri

baterija said:


> Little story from someone I know who was a tanker when the searchlights were still mounted...



Dat dere was funny


----------



## NITE LITE

Hi All
I just found this site again after a few years.
Trying to make a few posts again in order to PM a few members .
I have one of these search lights that I have been slowly finding connectors for. I'm down to only needing the female connector that fits the light.
I have the main control box mounted in my HMMWV and I made an adapter to mount the search light on the TOW missle base plate on my turret.

Nite Lite


----------



## NITE LITE

TVODRD
Hi Larry
Looks like your the closest member to me with one of these Arc Tank Lights.
I last contacted you a few years back.
I have a few questions.

Thanks
Nite Lite


----------



## rumani

I made an adapter to mount the search light on the TOW missle base plate on my turret.


----------



## cook16066

I'm looking for a military power supply like the one posted on Page 1 of this thread to power my VSS3A. I posted a WTB on the Marketplace here: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?p=2383943#post2383943


----------



## IgNITEor

cook16066 said:


> I'm looking for a military power supply like the one posted on Page 1 of this thread to power my VSS3A.......



Does it absolutely _have_ to be a military power supply? I can fix that with a carefully applied coat of "olive drab" in only the finest way I know.


----------



## tvodrd

cook16066 said:


> I'm looking for a military power supply like the one posted on Page 1 of this thread to power my VSS3A. I posted a WTB on the Marketplace here: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?p=2383943#post2383943



There are simpler alternatives:






And welcome to CPF!

Larry


----------



## cook16066

No it doesn't have to be MIL-Spec but I like the idea of having one  I figure if I have a VSS3a I mine as well have the trick setup to go along with it.


----------



## Phased_Array

NITE LITE, rumani, sounds cool any pics of the mounts? I have a large pintle mount base with T&E for the vehicle turret mounts, works with M2 tripods too.


----------



## NITE LITE

Hi Phased
I can send you a few pics .

I Might take a few this weekend. (supposed to rain tonight)
I haven't fired it up yet.
I just got the main light cable from a friend.
It looks like I will have to cut the ring off of the control box end (different thread pattern so it won't plug all the way in.


----------



## BVH

Edit opps wrong light. disregard


----------



## lotsalumens

cook16066 said:


> I'm looking for a military power supply like the one posted on Page 1 of this thread to power my VSS3A. I posted a WTB on the Marketplace here: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?p=2383943#post2383943



Also keep searching ebay. There are a couple of drawbacks to that supply. First the inrush current to the light invariably trips trips the output breaker, and second is that it's a backbreaker to move around....really heavy. There was another member here who found some sort of really lightweight telecom power supply but I can't remember what it was called. 

Charles


----------



## ShortArc

lotsalumens said:


> Also keep searching ebay. There are a couple of drawbacks to that supply. First the inrush current to the light invariably trips trips the output breaker, and second is that it's a backbreaker to move around....really heavy. There was another member here who found some sort of really lightweight telecom power supply but I can't remember what it was called.
> 
> Charles



This is a less heavy alternative: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1316202&postcount=29

Cell tower rectifier as discussed in previous threads.

Cheers.


----------



## BVH

Yes, there was a guy in Greece that had a couple of them on Ebay repeatedly about a year ago. Even with shipping, they were not "too bad" of a price. I used "VSS" to search them out back then. IIRC, they required 240V, single phase power to fire up.


----------



## Probedude

Boy, I sure wish I could find one of these for sale !!!


----------



## NITE LITE

Phased I sent you a few pictures.

NL


----------



## ShortArc

Folks looking for Cell tower rectifiers should just search for "28V Rectifier" on eBay and you find stuff like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TPS-TDI-SPS...ultDomain_0?hash=item587e3da898#ht_2248wt_860


----------



## NITE LITE

*A new twist on an old light*

Well Thanks to BVH I'm going to try posting a few pictures of my VSS-3

I'm getting close to firing it up.
I need to make the power cable to feed it's hungry circuits
I also have to upgrade the alternator from 60 amp to 100amp
I have the remote and fittings (just need to make the cable)

It may not be a tank but she's all I can afford.

 

The main control box is located under the radio stack







A few from the side











And a picture from the front of both the highBeams and the low beams








Thats it 
Thanks Bob for your help.


----------



## BVH

Well done, Nite Lite! Pardon me for mis-reading your user name as Nite Nite. In the last two weeks, I've found that I'm squinting quite a bit at the screen and missing letters and mis-reading others. Now I'm going to keep a pair of glasses near.

Beautiful rig!


----------



## NITE LITE

No problem Bob
I guess Bright Light or Bright Lite would work for me as well.
Thanks for the complement.
Now I'm going to say Nite Nite

NL


----------



## 65535

I think you need some high torque servos or something mounted on that bad boy for aiming.


----------



## DM51

NITE LITE, that's what I call a *SERIOUS* vehicle! Superb!


----------



## ShortArc

WOW! Now that's a Hummer! Can't wait to see this setup in action.


----------



## NITE LITE

Thanks guys for the kind words.
I guess I could say it has a military power supply.

I will have to take it out on the next desert trip and take a few beam shots. I'm a bit nervous about firing it up on the HMMWV for the first time.
But I'm going to just have to get over it and light it up.
Any special words of wisdom for those who have gone before me about any Pre Ignition check list.?
Also who was it that re threaded the connector ring on the control box end. I can always cut it off . I have the correct ring but I would have to cut the molded end off and un solder the connector to replace the ring with the right thread pattern ( a Job I'm not interested in doing right now)

NL


----------



## tvodrd

N L, your cable is likely USGI and connected the light to the tank's turret. The rest of us bought connectors and made our cables. The connector on the searchlight has the non-standard thread, and I re-threaded several Amphenol rings to sorta fit. If you elect to cut the end off and re-solder your connector, I'll swap you a standard ring (fits control box) for the one you remove. PM me if interested.

Larry


----------



## NITE LITE

Hi Larry
Thanks for the reply.
Yes the cable I have is a USGI cable.
The light end seems to fit and thread on ok.
It's the end that goes to the control box that is odd for me.
BVH said it's because the cable used to go to a bulkhead connector if you will on the outside of the tank and that had a course thread. 
I found two complete sets of connectors for this thing at a couple of various surplus stores over the years. ( all of them except the one that fit the light) I was still looking for that end and was about to order it when I aquired the USGI cable.

I know were a M60 tank is that I can double check my cable with but that sounds like my problem. The connectors seem like they would fit pretty snug if I just cut the ring off and used the cable without it that way I don't have to cut all of the rubber off of the outside of the connector.

Thoughts?


----------



## tvodrd

N L, all of my connectors fit very snugly, as they should given the pin count. Cutting your ring off should work fine. and being inside the vehicle, it shouldn't see any mechanical stresses. I would have liked your ring as I have one more cable to make. Re-threading that 18tpi v-thread to a 10tpi sort-of-acme is better than nothing, and can be a ***** to start. :devil:

Larry


----------



## NITE LITE

I might be able to find you the correct ring if your not in a big hurry.
LMK

George


----------



## tvodrd

Thanks, George.

I'm in the middle of moving to Hawthorne, NV and my shop there still needs to be wired. I'm a few months out from making my 2nd cable, so if you run across a ring, I'll be happy to buy it!

Larry


----------



## NITE LITE

Larry
Have you made the cables for the remotes?
What kind of cable did you use?

I need to make a run out to a surplus store that might have one. But it won't be for a few weeks.

George


----------



## tvodrd

Negative, and don't plan to. I've got the connectors for the small remote if you'd like them. (freebie) They're in Hawthorne but so will I be again in a week. 18ga wire should be fine for the cable. I think you're the first person who has a good use for the small remote!

Larry


----------



## BVH

I used 16 AWG for my cable only because I had it on-hand.

Hi Larry! Taking a while for you move I see. Don't ya just hate moving?


----------



## Phased_Array

Nite Lite,
You don't have to upgrade the alternator, my AN/VSS3 running amps were not that high as I remember. Plus you have the batt's to compensate for any current surge. You'll be OK with our regular HMMWV alt. You're using the slave cable recepticle under the commander seat right?


----------



## BVH

They run right about 60 Amps + or - a few. PA is correct. The gigantic batteries would probably run the light for well over an hour without any help from the alternator. The alternator output is just icing on the cake.


----------



## NITE LITE

Great news 
I'm one step closer then.

I'll pickup a single pin slave connector and a make a short power cord .
I already have the alternator just been to lazy to install it. I actually dropped it on my foot about 6 months ago when I was moving it around haven't been to crazy about playing with it.

Thanks 
George


----------



## Patriot

I sure enjoy following these threads and the knowledge exchange even though I have nothing worth while to contribute. Keep up the interesting discussion!


----------



## Phased_Array

Nite Lite,
I made this slave connector for the Deuce, need to upgrade to the single pin NATO connector my HMMWV.










I like your controls mount under the radio, I mounted mine in a mil Transit Case so I could move it around. Remote and cables go in there too.




Here's what I came up with for the elevation adjustment. 2 pivot points front and back, mounted on a large weapon pintle mount. 





So it's either the 50BMG machine gun or the AN/VSS3 mounted on the turret.


----------



## NITE LITE

Phased
Love the Deuce, the light looks good up there and if I'm correct it was an actual piece of equiptment for the Deuce or the M60 tank.
Looks like you have two VSS-3's in the 3rd picture.!!??

I originally was trying for the TOW set up like you have but decided it was made out of the rarest of metals unobtanium so I used the TOW plate for my VSS-3 and that left the main mount open for my S/A M2 .50, S/A M60 or my Sim fired MK-19 40mm. I then added a secondary weapons mount 180 degrees from that so I can actually incorporate 3 at the same time. It would make for a busy work station ,that and I can't be in two places at once.

Looks like fun in the parade.
About 15 of us (MV's) will be hitting the Rose Parade route the day before with our MV's and a small parade on the 4th of July in Sierra Madre.

Sorry from straying from the original thread.
George


----------



## mercvapor

Where do i purchase on of these lights? i have many other lights and this would be awesome for my collection


----------



## NITE LITE

Hi Merc
Do a search on ebay.
They have a big brother the VSS-1 it has about the same light output but I believe is about twice the weight. It has a smaller control box and requires a fewer conductor cable . BVH can probably give you some differences between the two I believe he has owned both in the past.

The hard part with most of the VSS-3's that you may find is they don't have any cables with them. They are built into the tanks copulas so they don't come with the lights . You have to order the connectors and make your own cables. Some pop up every once in awhile without the control box I believe finding a control box by itself is like finding a needel in a hay stack . That is unless you find somebody selling one that they have gotten working and decided it was time to sell it and move to something bigger.

Many moons ago there was a guy that bought a bunch at a gov auction. 
I believe he was in Texas. Depending on were you live from there shipping cost about as much as the light did and then you had to find the connectors and cables.

There is a VSS-1 for sale on www. Steelsoldiers.com it is located in Calif.
I'm not sure of the working condition or if it does work or if all of the pieces are there. He was asking $500 for it

Hope that helps
GW


----------



## NITE LITE

Update : It's alive!!
Well I fired it up 2 weekends ago. What a light.!!!!!!
No beam shots yet I will be taking it out to the desert in April I will post some beam shots then.
I'm limited to about 70 degrees of elevation with the mount I'm using.
I was able to effectively light up a hill top about 1 mile away with the narrow beam focused on a tree on top of the hill. It looked like beam wasn't more that 30 feet wide at a mile. We used some binoculars to look at the tree and could easily make out the vegitation on the hill top.

One of the neighbors was at a small aiport (no Commercial flights) about 5-7 miles away and said he could see the light when I was aiming up at 70 degrees. I haven't left it running long enough to drive anywere and see it from a distance.

Thanks to all who went before me and gave me help and inspiration.

NL


----------



## DM51

mercvapor said:


> Where do i purchase on of these lights? i have many other lights and this would be awesome for my collection


Welcome to CPF, mercvapor 

As a first post, that is hard to beat!


----------



## guiri

I'm gonna have to say DM that I agree 

The hell with the little quarks and stuff, let's go for the real lights 

Does he know this doesn't come with a pocket clip?


----------



## batvette

New link to footage described on page 2- (footage of similar searchlight with IR filter highlighting bad guys for attack by air support with machine guns and rockets, as seen through night vision)

http://breakmobile.com/index/mosulbombs.html

Cool. Looks like a freakin' giant laser.


----------



## batvette

DM51 said:


> Welcome to CPF, mercvapor
> 
> As a first post, that is hard to beat!


 
At first glance sounds so innocent and naive....

but then that's the kind of thing that bites you in the *** when he pulls up at a get together with a WW2 carbon arc searchlight on a trailer... towed by a van that says "US Dept of Energy Small Mobile Reactor Project". 

Never underestimate the unknown.


----------



## Jerrycobra

amazing light man, that thing is awesome, looks like some crazy range too


----------



## Bill Idaho

I restore military vehicles, which has lead me to owning a working VSS-1 and now a gutted VSS-3. As I have explained in another thread here on CPF, I need to install something else inside the existing housing. 
Anyone have any ideas? I would like to keep it 24 VDC, but 110 VAC works for me as well. (The trailer I am planning on mounting it on will carry the generator/battery pack too.)


----------



## Damoo

*Re: A new twist on an old light*



NITE LITE said:


> Well Thanks to BVH I'm going to try posting a few pictures of my VSS-3
> 
> I'm getting close to firing it up.
> I need to make the power cable to feed it's hungry circuits
> I also have to upgrade the alternator from 60 amp to 100amp
> I have the remote and fittings (just need to make the cable)
> 
> It may not be a tank but she's all I can afford.
> 
> 
> 
> The main control box is located under the radio stack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few from the side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a picture from the front of both the highBeams and the low beams
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats it
> Thanks Bob for your help.



Hey mate, how much did the humvee cost and where did you get it from? I'm curious.

Thanks much.


----------



## NITE LITE

Private party. originally it was from a goverment auction back in the early 90's.
HMMWV = High Maintenace Money Wasting Vehicle

$$ under $30K with alot of parts

NL


----------



## Weavie

*Newbie looking for some advice.* 
I was cleaning out my fathers garage and came across a crate with a AN/VSS-3A in it. While researching what it was I came across this forum. I have read a ton of posts, but I am more confused now than when I started. I would love to power it up, but I know very little about electricity. Is a military generator the best route?. The DRMO in Mechanicsburg has several differnt types up for auction this week. I have seen lots of different opinions on using batteries, and I would like to try this to make sure it works before investing in a generator though.
I am going up to my fathers this weekend to see any of the cables that are in the crate connect to it. 
Am I in over my head? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Ralph


----------



## NITE LITE

Hi Ralph
Nice find . It must have been a good sized wooden crate you stumbled over.
I would be supprised if you found cables in the crate but heck you never know.
I ended up with two of them new in the crate and both were minus cables.
Most of the cables that are required to get one of these things running are only found still attached to the inside of a tank copula so we had to make them.
Maybe you can get a M60 tank and then that will solve all your problems.

I did find a cable that was used to connect the light to the connector found on the outside of the turret but it was like winning the lottery.

I'm going to bet you have to order the connectors and then make your own cables.

I just run mine off of the battery's in my truck so I'm no help with the genny.

George


----------



## Weavie

George,

Thanks for the quick response! The crate does have cables but I have not made it up to my dads to see how many or if they will even hook up. 
If by (slim) chance they hook up, I might test it with a series of truck batteries. I read on here that it ruins the batteries, but a quick test should be ok.
Before I do test it though, I wonder if you could walk me through the control panel, cool down, ect... I would hate to break it on my first lighting.

Thanks again, Ralph

That is one tough looking vehicle!


----------



## Lightologist

Is this for real? lol speechless, I thought I had some beams


----------



## NITE LITE

Ralph
In the one crate that I opened so far everything was still sealed in the original packaging. there was even a technical manual. You may have one in there as well it should be:
TM 11-5855-217-12-1
for the an/vss-3A FSN 5855-405-0404
I strongly recommend you find a copy of it for your records and to keep with the unit. It covers everything the military thought important , from the maintenance to repair parts and even destruction of the unit.
You may be able to do a search by the TM # or the FSN # and find it in PDF format. If you can't I can scan the start up pages and email them to you. Send me a PM with your email addy.

The units have a built in cooling fan that should run as soon as the light is switched on in either IR or visible light settings. If you don't hear it turn on when you fire up the light something is wrong and I would recommend you shut it down .


Normal start up once power is supplied to the control box:
the "Circuit Test " switch should be set to "Operating Position" #1
Set the "Remote / Local switch to local
switch the "Power switch" to infrared or visible
Note: you will have to pull out on the power switch to get it to switch up past the IR setting.

When the unit is powered up in either IR or Visible light the fan should run.
The "Lamp on" light on the control panel should light and the over temp light should be out. Keep checking the over temp light after 1 min of operation.
The Beam switch can be in either setting:
When in the down position it will concentrate the beam to a very narrow beam of approx. 1 degree.
When switched up you can focus the beam by pushing sideways on the toggle. from 1-7 degrees

Shut down:
Return the "Beam" switch to the compact setting
Set the power switch to the Off position.
If the blower motor is still running leave the power cord connected to the light untill such time as it shuts off by itself.

I never ran mine for more than 30 mins. at a time . I never had any cooling issues. However I was told by another fellow board member that it is possible that the fan may need to run after shut down to cool off the unit after extended run times. If the fan is still running after the light has been shut down DO NOT REMOVE power from the unit . Switch the light to the off position but if you hear the fan still running let the fan keep running to cool down the bulb and unit before you unplug the power cord or disconnect the power to the control box. The bulbs can explode under some conditions.

There is a smaller contol box that was part of the system. It was located up near the tank commanders seat in the copula. It isn't required to make the light function it was basically just a wired remote control for the on/off, and beam focus controls.

Extreme caution must be given when operating this thing due to the huge amount of light output. Make sure that you never look directly into it on either setting or shine it at anyone . Severe eye damage and blindness can occur at ranges under 320 meters. And flash blindness can occure in excess of 320 meters.
Also be carfull not to point it in any way that could effect air traffic.

Thats about all I can think of.
I know I was nervous when I fired mine up for the first time.
That's ok it's a healthy feeling to have with one of these things , they are unique and require respect. 

I'm a relative nooby with them so you may ask some of the others from this board that have more experience for there input they were most helpfull to me.

Good luck 
Keep us posted

Nite Lite


----------



## Lightologist

I'm giving up!


----------



## NITE LITE

Lightologist
Don't give up yet. Your just starting.


----------



## Weavie

George, 

Once again, thank you!
I am going to my fathers tomorrow to clean it up and get some pics. I am pretty sure there is some type of manual with it. I will post the pics tomorrow night. This unit is loose in the crate, and very dusty. If everything goes well I plan on going up next Sunday and fire it up.
Thank you,

Ralph


----------



## NITE LITE

Ralph
Sounds like we may have another one up and running soon.
Best of luck .If the cables are there you will be way ahead of the game.

NL


----------



## Weavie

NL,

Looks like I have everything needed for a test run. It has an 18" cable that connects the control box to the light. It also has two single cables that connect the control box to the power source. It has a vehicle mount, manual, and remote. 

It is used, the hour meter says (13.9). 

I have pictures of everything but it seems I need a website to post pics on here?

Is there another way to import my pictures to this post?

Weavie


----------



## dclancy

I love this thread. I need to buy or rent one of these for a party in Cabo next month. Does anybody want to rent one?
Thanks.


----------



## Jazz

Weavie said:


> NL,
> I have pictures of everything but it seems I need a website to post pics on here?
> 
> Is there another way to import my pictures to this post?
> 
> Weavie



You can upload/host them on Imageshack, Photobucket or Flickr and then you link them back into your post.


----------



## Weavie

Jazz,

Thanks for the info about the pics. I am going to attempt it, but I might have to con one of my teenagers into helping me figure it out.

Dclancy, 

If this thing works, take me with you to Cabo and I will bring it along.

Weavie


----------



## Weavie

Here is the link to my pics on photobucket. Hope this works!

Weavie

<a href="http://s986.photobucket.com/albums/ae350/weavie/?action=view&current=anvss3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/ae350/weavie/th_anvss3.jpg" border="0" alt="AN/VSS-3A" ></a>


----------



## azzid

omg! that's something i wouldn't mind putting on my roof


----------



## Weavie

Having problems. 
Hooked the light up last night but it failed to produce a steady beam. The fan works fine but the beam would pulse or strobe about 7 or 8 times then you would here a click in the control panel and it would quit pulsing. The pulsing beam was very bright. 
Anyone ever have this problem?

Weavie


----------



## NITE LITE

Hey Weavie

Tell us about your power source and your connections.
Is there any sign of corrosion or dirty contacts /pins .

These little buggers draw about 60 amps at 24 volts.

Your unit looks a bit different then mine. Mine is completely square and yours looks to have clipped corners on the top. However I think this is just the difference in the A and B model

Did you check the fuses?
Also is your test switch in the #1 (12:00 position)

The pulsing is a bit odd it could be that it is trying to start the arc and not getting enough power.According to my TM it may not light if voltage drops below 22 volts. Make sure you have 2 good battery's fully charged and your connections are all tight.

Do you have the TM for your light.
There is a table of test you can do using the Circuit test switch and the circuit test light to help isolate a possible problem

NL


----------



## Weavie

NL

My one friend has a boat that uses a 24 volt system. We actually set the light on the boat and hooked it up with the two thin leads I found in the crate. (pics above in post #312) We tested the voltage going into the light at 27.7. When we turned the light on the meter went crazy.

I have the original TM and I will see if I can find someone to help me run the tests with a little more knowledge than I have about electricity. I did not check the fuses but I will before the next test.

Thanks for your help, I will give it another try this weekend.

Weavie


----------



## NITE LITE

Weavie
Remember this sucker needs alot of amps.
So your batteries need to be able to put out north of 600 CCA (cold crank amps) In order to be able to keep the voltage and amperage steady your going to need to get some big wire to use between your power supply and the control box. Try and keep them as short as possible to help cut down on voltage drop. When you voltage drops your current draw or amps will spike. If you had to you might be able to use a set of good heavy jumper cables in a pinch.
I went to a welding supply shop and bought some #1 or #2 ground cable to make my power cord with.

NL


----------



## BVH

Just as battery cable pales in comparison to welding cable in "strand count/cross section fill", so too, does welding cable pale in comparison to Carrol brand Vutron cable available from McMasterCarr. I used Vutron #1 to run my VSS-1. When you cut this cable, the strands are so fine, they feels soft in your hands.

I used 4 each (in 2S, 2P) UBC 110 Amp, deep cycle AGM batteries for a total rating of 220 Amps to run my rig. I got about 50 to 55 minutes of run time down to 60% depth of discharge Voltage. IIRC, running AMP consumption was in the high 80's, low 90's. So imaging what starting Amps are - 2.5 to 3 times that figure.


----------



## NITE LITE

Weavie
Any progress reports.
I haven't checked in here in quite awhile.
I've used my light a few times out in the desert mounted up on the HMMWV. problem is I want to go out from camp aways and see what it looks like but haven't been able to do that I'm afraid to leave the light on an unattended .
I was thinking of selling one of them but now might donate it to a museum near me to mount back on a M551 Sheradin were it belongs.

I'll check back soon
GW


----------



## FRITZHID

NITE LITE said:


> Weavie
> Any progress reports.
> I haven't checked in here in quite awhile.
> I've used my light a few times out in the desert mounted up on the HMMWV. problem is I want to go out from camp aways and see what it looks like but haven't been able to do that I'm afraid to leave the light on an unattended .
> I was thinking of selling one of them but now might donate it to a museum near me to mount back on a M551 Sheradin were it belongs.
> 
> I'll check back soon
> GW


 
i'd be very interested in 1!


----------



## Weavie

NL,

Kind of gave up on it, I bought an old farmhouse and it is sucking up all my extra money! In never invested in the heavier cables and sadly it is now just collecting dust in my garage. Do you know anyone on the East Coast looking for a good project?

Weavie


----------



## NITE LITE

Ralph
I think your better off with the farm house myself.
The light is neat to play with when you first get it running but it won't give you a place to stay or keep your stuff dry.
I have considered selling mine it takes up allot of room to store the dumb thing.
That being said I don't know anyone on the east coast looking for one.
I see a post above it looks like he may be interested.


I might be interested in the cables you have if you want to separate them.

Best of luck with the house.
George


----------



## firemedic281

Weavie, Im in Texas, but I might be interested in the light. How much would you let the whole thing go for?


----------



## Flaminpyro

That is a pretty cool light, maybe you could say where you bought it as I would like to look into getting one myself, Thanks !
and where did you find the power supply ?


----------



## BVH

You might try PM'ing (when you're able to use PM's) member JimH He bought my Harbor Freight trailer mounted light a while back and I had heard that he might want to sell it. Not sure if he's on the board much anymore though. Other than that, they show up on Ebay from time to time. Search using "searchlights" and/or an/vss-1 or similar.

Here's a link to the one I built.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ot-up-for-sale!-AN-VSS-1-MINT!&highlight=tank

I powered mine with 4 Group 31 12 Volt SLA's for a total capacity of 220 Amps @ 24 Volts. Running it draws around 90 Amps. I didn't have fancy meters back then so I do have a starting Amp draw but figure double for a very short period of time.


----------



## NITE LITE

Hey
FlaminPyro
The PM thingy worked .
First off as a licensed pyro myself I have to ask about your board name.

I bought my unit about 5 or more years ago off of eBay from a guy in Texas. ( I think that's were most of them came from).
As to my power supply well I already owned it before I owned the light. I just didn't know it.
I plug my light into the auxiliary jack of my M1046 HMMWV. The jack is really used to jump start the vehicle or another vehicle.

Like most of the units that were sold off originally I think they were sold out of government liquidation auction.
Most of the units were brand new still packed in their original crates. 
To my knowledge non of the NOS units sold came with cables. The lights were original designed to mount on the M155 Sheridan or the M60 Tank.
The interconnect cable between the control box and light ran through the turret on either tank . There was a cable that went from a socket on the outside of the copula to the light. I was able to find that cable but the threads are different on the exterior socket then on the control box so the lock ring doesn't fully tighten down.
Most everyone on the board had to make there cables. I think the parts # for the connectors are listed in one of the threads related to the VSS-1 or VSS-3
Some have used military power supply's used to power radio equipment for there power supply's.
Others just use a couple of 12 volt batteries hooked up in series to power there units.
The amperage listed for the VSS-3 is around 60 amps at 24VDC so you need to make sure you have some big cables to supply power to this baby.

LMK if you have more questions.
BVH was a great help to me in getting mine up and running. He probably can answer more of the technical stuff then I can should you need more info.
I believe Fused Array or Phased Array, and Short Arc were also some of the pioneers on this board in getting a few of them back to life.
NL


----------



## DisrupTer911

Is this similar to what they've been using in NYC for the Tribute in Lights at Ground Zero?


----------



## OBXTucker

Weavie said:


> NL,
> 
> Kind of gave up on it, I bought an old farmhouse and it is sucking up all my extra money! In never invested in the heavier cables and sadly it is now just collecting dust in my garage. Do you know anyone on the East Coast looking for a good project?
> 
> Weavie



Weavie or NL:
If you're interested in letting one of these go, I'd seriously like to discuss.
The plan is to have a completely working unit mounted to a pan/tilt that's permanently mounted on the flybridge of my trawler.
I'm hoping to powder coat/awlgrip it to match the boat.

Below is a picture of the trawler. You can see the '70's version incan searchlight that is currently up there above the 
pilothouse window (under cover). 






PM me please if you're interested in selling.

Thanks!


----------



## NITE LITE

Nice boat.
PM sent
NL


----------



## mtechmick

Nite Lite: I'm interested in that, if its still available. Please PM. 

Thanks


----------



## 2100

OBXTucker, if you really got that light and you need some info, you can contact Flashpilot of budgetlightforums. He has a VSS-3 (that most advanced one, with 150 million cp) on his 35 foot leisure cruiser. It was quite a lot of money to get it to work, with the genset and AGM batteries and wiring. The folks to ask are really those vintage tank collectors in various forums. He can guide you to them. 

Not sure if you have considered formally the marine searchlights of the metal halide variety. I have asked a few and $3k (before discount, definitely negotiate) gets you a basic but good marine capable 12" 575W metal halide (well over 10 mil cp and over 3km range @ 1lux) working unit that can easily interface with support and parts available, installation excluded. Well you can have > 100 million cp and 12km range if you have the cash, but unless you are mounting a good 50 metres up there in a large craft or you have a very fast craft and this is used for night fast navigation, i don't think there is much use, unless if it's just for fun.  Though the tank lights are extremely robust and engineered to a level for environments that are more extreme than marine, I'm more worried about sinking in a few grand, have a working light for 6 months, and then not having any spare parts after that.

Some of them even have EMARCs available in a small package and doing over 10 mil cp, so pretty cool...but i think definitely not cheap. 

Or maybe such tank projects are significantly cheaper? I don't know....


----------



## OBXTucker

2100: All good points and I appreciate the thoughts. I have not pulled the trigger yet, but I completely understand that I can buy a "pre-packaged" marine unit that would suit our needs pretty well. And yes, it would be infinitely easier to just pull out the checkbook and have it here next week. But as you've surmised, there's more to this project than just having a nice searchlight.  Having a conversation piece is a big consideration as well!


----------



## 2100

Yeah, if you do have the spare time/tools/know-how to tinker around then it'd be way fun.


----------



## BVH

A good ol thread revival from not too long ago. I found a second VSS-3a control box for my second light. Although they are both control boxes for the VSS-3a and not the earlier VSS-3, there are some subtle differences I find interesting.


Smaller fuse holders, don't look as weather-proof at the sealing surface.
Although all words are identical on both boxes, on Box A, the type is bolder and easier to read but not as sharp.

BOX A





Larger fuse holders, look more weather proof at sealing surface.
Same words, but less bold, but sharper type.

BOX B






Box A blue relay faces 180 degrees opposite of Box B and wiring paths are different.
Two stack switches in Box A are fully enclosed.
All solder joints are covered in flux residue.

BOX A





Box B blue relay faces 180 degrees opposite of Box A and wiring paths are different.
Two stack switches in Box B are open frame.
No solder joints have flux residue visible.

BOX B





Box A has no secret surprise! Not even the screw hole has been drilled & tapped. The clip insertion slot is not milled.

BOX A






Box B has the secret surprise! I am guessing it is a testing adapter that hooks up to some type of testing machine. The end with the round nut is threaded to fit on the box and the non-nutted end is the thread that is on the light - the odd-ball thread from everything else.

BOX B





Overall, I'm guessing Box A is a newer generation controller with improvements. It has sealed stack switches and the wiring path looks like it would incur less chance of wire chaffing and that may be why they re-oriented the relay. The circuit boards look identical. Box B SN is 4xx but unfortunately, I can't find the flange I took off when I mounted Box A to the tripod so I don't know its' SN. The presence of the testing adapter could be interpreted either way. It's there because it's a new and easier way to test and repair the light or it was never needed and eliminated and that's why the raw castings for the bracket are still there but not machined. I think the latter.


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## NITE LITE

I never went so far as opening up my box but I might just have to, to see what I have inside if anything.
I must say I do like suprises. I haven't fired up the light in awhile. I have another unit still in the original crate taking up space in my garage. The control box for that is still in it's original sealed packaging so I probably won't check that one out.

I'm wondering if the adapter has the same thread pattern as the socket that was used on the exterior of the cupola on the M60 and M551 Sheradan tanks.
The light cord I found plugs into the socket on the front of the control box ok but the threaded ring or connector shell will not thread on due to a different thread pattern.
I will have to look in mine and see. If I don't have one would you be interested in selling it or at least let me borrow it to see if my hunch is correct?

Nice to see this thread active again
George


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## BVH

I do not remember seeing an actual pic of the VSS-3a bulb in this thread nor could one be found out in Cyberspace. So here it is.






I's about 9-10 inches long IIRC without unwrapping it again. I might get some better ones tomorrow.


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## Phased_Array

Yup, I always try to carry a spare bulb 'just in case'. Especially those priceless and unobtainable ones. 


BVH said:


> I do not remember seeing an actual pic of the VSS-3a bulb in this thread nor could one be found out in Cyberspace. So here it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I's about 9-10 inches long IIRC without unwrapping it again. I might get some better ones tomorrow.


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## BVH

Thought I'd update this thread with some lamp close-ups

Overall lamp






Arc Chamber






Electrodes Close Up






Cathode Seal Closeup






Cathode Base






Anode Seal Close Up






Anode Base






Anode Base End


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## BVH

Has anyone seen any of these for sale? (without the light!)


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## Optiforms_Todd

Now that looks like a lot of fun, not sure the neighbors would appreciate the beam on bedroom windows late at night, lol.


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## IgNITEor

Optiforms? Welcome Todd! 

Might you be an employee? I seem to have lost contact with my dumpster alert
person from a few years back. 
What may be one's failed production or custom piece is another one's treasure!


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## IgNITEor

Duplicate post deleted. It's late, I'm SO tired.


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## dizzytats

Brought back from the dead just in case any of yall might still be looking for one of these. I have about 10 of these units for sale. No control boxes, just the lights.


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## BVH

Without reading all the past posts to see if it's already been posted, I thought I'd use the excuse to break out my VSS-3A to take some input power measurements and document power requirements for the light. Someday, I will rig something up to measure power at the lamp connections. My systems consists of:

Realtec Flotrol 25Volt/100 Amp DC rectifier, model A100F25 fed from 240VAC.
Input cable length to control box is 18 feet of Carol brand high strand count, Orange jacketed #4 cable available from McMasterCarr.
Cable from control box to the light is 4 feet of the same cable.
Flowtrol is POT adjusted to 28.6 Volts unloaded which results in 28.02 Volts measured mid input cable under load after boost circuit is terminated. I could adjust for 28.8 Volts loaded but these lamps are 35+ years old and I don't want to push it to the max.
Ambient temp is 62 degrees F.

Inrush current measured: 87, 88 & 93. 93 was the first measurement when stone cold. 87 & 88 measurements were after sitting for 30 minutes after a 5 minute run.
Steady Amps after termination of boost circuit is about 55 Amps. Steady Watts is about 1545.
All of these number would be a bit higher if input Voltage was upped to 28.8.
Another reference point: At the ambient temp of 62 and after a 5-minute run, after turning off the light, the cooling fan continued to run for 90 seconds. After a later 3-minute run, the fan turned off when the light was turned off. However, about 30 - 40 seconds later, the fan came on for about a minute. As the manual indicates, always leave power "On" to the control box for at least 5 minutes after turning off the light - or longer if the fan is still running.

Added 8/15/16

Lamp 1 - 19.7 Volts, 51.1 Amps = 1007 Watts measured at the lamp after 10 minutes of run time.
Lamp 2 - 18.5 Volts, 54.2 Amps = 1003 Watts measured at the lamp after 10 minutes of run time.

Input at the light was 28.02 Volts.

Ballast resistor temp - 412F @ 10 minutes of run time.
Discharge air - 138F - @ 10 minutes of run time. 


First video shows Ammeter reading from startup through termination of the boost circuit. Total time till boost circuit termination is 3 minutes. (Notice the pitch change of the cooling fan at 3'30" into the video)




Second video shows True Inrush Current and True input Watts during boost and through termination of boost circuit


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## Kestrel

Some idle browsing this afternoon, one of these units is for sale here; no idea if a good deal or not but figured that the bump wouldn't hurt:
http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/an-vss-3-search-light.aspx


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## BVH

For those that may be interested - A little observation of the above ad for sale: As the ad says, it's a VSS-3, not a VSS-3A. The control box shown is the "Remote" control box only and is not capable of running the light. The cable shown is for the light-to-Main Control box (not shown or included) and may have to be modified on one end to work due to thread differences. Price is very high compared to Ebay units.


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## NoNotAgain

BVH said:


> For those that may be interested - A little observation of the above ad for sale: As the ad says, it's a VSS-3, not a VSS-3A. The control box shown is the "Remote" control box only and is not capable of running the light. The cable shown is for the light-to-Main Control box (not shown or included) and may have to be modified on one end to work due to thread differences. Price is very high compared to Ebay units.


BVH, Ever had dealings with SARCO? They're stuck in the 18th century. All of their inventory is listed on file cards. If you attempt calling to find out if an item is in stock, you usually get the response, "Well Machinegun Dave isn't in right now, can you call back later?"

Sarco was the place to find all types of military surplus firearms parts. The were located in New Jersey for many years. From what I've read, they were forced to move to PA due to the high capacity magazines being verbolten in New Jersey.

With the markings on this light being Yiddish, these are Israeli surplus. 

And yes, this light is way over priced which is a Sarco hallmark.


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## BVH

Some additional Power specs:

Lamp 1 - 19.7 Volts, 51.1 Amps = 1007 Watts measured at the lamp after 10 minutes of run time.
Lamp 2 - 18.5 Volts, 54.2 Amps = 1003 Watts measured at the lamp after 10 minutes of run time.

Input at the light was 28.02 Volts. 

Ballast resistor temp - 412F @ 10 minutes of run time.
Discharge air - 138F - @ 10 minutes of run time.


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## BVH

Received two brand new looking lamps from Part2go on Ebay. They are ORC brand, same as the one that came with the light. I don't know what happened with the first lamp but when I got to the end of the threads screwing it in, I just began to "hand tighten" it and it blew. Since it was in the factory extractor, it was a Strong but muffled BLUMMMPH and much of the quartz was contained and no internal damage to I.R. shield, reflector or anything else. I had all my safety gear on but there was no significant flying debris even with the back fan cover off at the time. Vacuumed out the debris and installed the 2nd new lamp with no issues. It fired right up. Ran it 12 minutes with no issues. I'd sure like to know what happened with the first one.


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## FRITZHID

Sounds like a manf defect to me, they do happen now and then. Glad you and your light are ok! Pays to use proper protection


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## BVH

Just for documentation purposes, here are some close-up pics of parts of the VSS-3/3a lamp. Made possible by the purchase of 12 lamps and the safe arrival of 10.

For the few owners out there, if you have any bad lamps, please dont throw them away. It would be fairly easy for a lamp company to make new lamps for us if the bases are supplied. If you don't want your bad lamps, send them to me and I'll strip them down and keep a stockpile of bases for use someday.



The Anode end of the lamp with Quartz gone.






Here you can see the inner quartz stem fitted within the outer Quartz stem. You can also see the moly foil contact material wrapped around the electrode stem.






Bare Anode base after potting compound and electrode removed






Anode end with electrode removed.






Inside the Anode base






Side view of the Anode electrode.






Tip of the Anode - 5/8" long, .436" in diameter






Wire connection to electrode which runs out the end of the base & is welded. There was a ball of very fine steel wool stuffed into the "pocket" shown in this both on the Cathode and Anode ends.






Side view of same






Inside of Cathode base where the plastic tangs are epoxied in-place


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## BVH

Complete light, control box, remote box, crate, cable ends, lamp extractor: (don't see any cables and don't know if cable ends are workable (solder cup type or not)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252846237878?ul_noapp=true


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## vadimax

BVH said:


> Complete light, control box, remote box, crate, cable ends, lamp extractor: (don't see any cables and don't know if cable ends are workable (solder cup type or not)
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/252846237878?ul_noapp=true



A record "TWO MAN LIFT 75 LBS" makes it poor EDC  But as a roof top sentry light it should be perfect.


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## vadimax

Wait! Infra red from an arc bulb? How is that possible?


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## FRITZHID

wish i could afford to sped $400 on another one and have a dueling pair but.... wife says no more new lights this yr.


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## FRITZHID

vadimax said:


> Wait! Infra red from an arc bulb? How is that possible?




Xenon puts out plenty of IR.


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## vadimax

FRITZHID said:


> Xenon puts out plenty of IR.



Strange to me. In my world arc bulbs emit blindingly white light. But this switch:







makes me guess.


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## FRITZHID

there's a tubular glass filter that moves over the bulb in IR mode that blocks almost all visible light. it starts in IR mode and then a motor pulls the filter out of the way when switched to white mode.


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## BVH

I don't know how many of us have the -3's. I have a source for 11 lamps. I've purchased from them before with good results. Any takers? If all 11 are purchased, we can get them for $125 each shipped to my door and then a few dollars more for me to ship to individuals.


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## NITE LITE

Hi I haven't checked this board for awhile.
I still have mine . I haven't used it in forever. I reconfigured my mounting platform (HMMWV) for the light and can no longer mount the light to it.
I was thinking of selling the light but an extra bulb would be a plus .
I'm in.
Keep me posted.
George


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## BVH

OK. I may buy two just because. They may be a few dollars more if we don't take them all.


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## jake-cutter

Picked up my Vss-3 today. It came with the light, mounting plate, cable for light to control box and the control box. Need to have a cable moade for the power source. Is there anybody here that can help me with the power cable? Looking for one to hook into the slave receptacle on my HMMWV and use the vehicle as my power source.


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## FRITZHID

Pretty sure most people build their own. I built one for member BVH a few years back and just finished building one for mine yesterday. 
IDK where one would find a stock connector/cable. BVH sent me the connector for mine, not sure where he got them.


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## BVH

jake-cutter said:


> Picked up my Vss-3 today. It came with the light, mounting plate, cable for light to control box and the control box. Need to have a cable moade for the power source. Is there anybody here that can help me with the power cable? Looking for one to hook into the slave receptacle on my HMMWV and use the vehicle as my power source.



Is that the smaller "remote control" box or the full-size control box. It's hard to tell at the angle? It looks quite different from the VSS-3A box (there is a difference)

I was just ready to place an order to a source in Israel for 4 extra newer style lamps for these lights. Do you want one or more? They are $140.00 shipped to me and then whatever shipping is from me to you. Or if you want to deal with him, I can provide the contact info.

I buy most my connectors from a source here in Calif that is usually cheaper than going with the usual big electronics suppliers. Let me know if you want the contact info.


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## jake-cutter

Its the full size control box I think see below. For now, I will pass on the spare lamp, but would like to know your source for the connectors. I believe for the power cable I need an MS3108B32-5S as shown in the link below and the connector for the wire to feed through. I have a slave plug already, but would need someone to make the cable for me as my solder skills are lacking. 

http://www.galco.com/buy/Fujikura-Formerly-DDK/DMS3108B32-5S

http://www.galco.com/buy/Fujikura-Formerly-DDK/DMS3057-20A


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## FRITZHID

That picture link is blocked for us by Photobucket, fyi.

as far as a cable goes, i can build you one.


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## jake-cutter

I will switch the pictures to imgur or another hosting company later this week. As for making the cable FRITZHID, I will probably take up on that. What do you think about using the Amphenol type connectors I listed, about 5 or 6 ft of wire and then a quick disconnect of some sort (similar to welding quick disconnects or flat quick disconnects like the ones in the link below). That way I can add or subtract length and only worry about making a cable with the quick disconnect end and not messing with the Amphenol connector. That way I could mount it on the vehicle and use a short end quick connect cable or in a trailer and use a long cable with the same quick connect end. Just not sure what size wire and the amp is on these lights to know which quick connector is better. 

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B014FEV6EU/


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## BVH

The Amphenol connector numbers are in this old post: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...c-Tank-Light&p=1871898&viewfull=1#post1871898 The connector and strain relief you link are very close, if not cheaper than my source - Connector Distribution Corp. I'd buy em before they raise the price.

I did exactly what you are talking about doing - using the quarter-turn welding quick connectors on the other end of my input cables. They work great. I would not use the 50 Amp connectors you link to. The light runs on about 58 Amps once settled and up to 100 Amps at startup. If you want something like that, go to Powerwerx.com and look at the Anderson variety. They look almost the same. Buy the 175 Amp size - https://powerwerx.com/anderson-sb-connectors-sb175-175amp


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## jake-cutter

BHV, do you have a link to the welding quick connectors you used? I ordered the Amphenol connectors from Galco so that's at least done.


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## BVH

https://www.mcmaster.com/#welding-connectors/=1ao3yjq

The smallest pair: 7841A11


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## NITE LITE

Wow another VSS-3 owner with a HMMWV mounting platform. Small world.
Have fun with it.
NL


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## jake-cutter

NITE LITE said:


> Wow another VSS-3 owner with a HMMWV mounting platform. Small world.
> Have fun with it.
> NL



Yours was one of the two HMMWV's that I found with VSS-3 mounted and I knew I had to have one. Need to fab a mount similar to yours or like the one on the g503 forums that mounts on the regular pintle. 

On a side note, does anyone know if the mounting holes on the bottom are in the exact same location on the VSS-3 and the VSS-3A? I would think so, but want to confirm.


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## NITE LITE

I would guess so however I only have one so I can't compare . I believe they both fit the same base plate on the tank .
I think they were the same physical se just one had clipped corners. 
I can look through my manual and see if it has some actual technical measurements.


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## nealitc

BVH said:


> The Amphenol connector numbers are in this old post: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...c-Tank-Light&p=1871898&viewfull=1#post1871898 The connector and strain relief you link are very close, if not cheaper than my source - Connector Distribution Corp. I'd buy em before they raise the price.


(Yeah, a bit delayed reply.)
Fujikura (Formerly DDK) clones from Galco are significantly less expensive than Amphenol.
jake-cutter has links in this post http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...c-Tank-Light&p=5162424&viewfull=1#post5162424


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## scout24

So who here is selling the tank light on the 'bay???


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## BVH

Have a link?


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## scout24

http://m.ebay.com/itm/MILITARY-TANK...ARCHLIGHT-1KW-50-MCP-/201645727842?nav=SEARCH


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## BVH

That one has been on and off Ebay for a couple of years. I don't know if it belongs to anyone here or not. Price is high. Nice power supply that goes with it but a bit under powered. The light wants about 100 Amps momentarily when starting and his ad makes it sound like the PS is not really up to the job, having to multiple-strike it sometimes. Steady running is more like 54-60 Amps depending on the fine tuning of the Voltage so it's right at the max of the PS. He's running it at about 27 Volts in the pic. If cranked up to the full 28.8, it would probably be drawing 58 Amps.


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## scout24

Thanks for the info!


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## Phased_Array

BVH said:


> *I don't know how many of us have the -3's. * I have a source for 11 lamps. I've purchased from them before with good results. Any takers? If all 11 are purchased, we can get them for $125 each shipped to my door and then a few dollars more for me to ship to individuals.



I still have my AN/VSS-3. A complete setup with a 'military power supply' for 110VAC use. I welded up a AN/VSS-3 mount kit for my roof mounted 50cal pintle mount on my HMMWV, plugs right in to the HMMWV power.


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## patracy

Wanted to share with the group some information I found out and had been talking with BVH over. I have a VSS-3A. I picked up a few early "A" model controllers. I know further back in the thread we had pics of the B controllers. But hopefully this will be some information that helps. Here's from our PMs back and forth.


My 3A light has this great placard on it outlining the controllers. That's what made me jump on these.






From the pics you posted, you have "B" boxes. Yes the older "3" box had an hour meter in it. The "A" box did as well. 

You can see the controller matches the 3A from the drawing. 

Now to the plugs. I was curious about this as well. All the pins appear to be shared by the two plugs. I used a voltmeter and checked continuity between the corresponding pins. There were two pins that did not link up though. S and L. If memory serves those we're connected in the drawing I looked at. (Unused) 

Now I think I know why they have two connectors. One of the plugs has a "coarse" thread on it like the light side. The other a fine thread that my new amphenol connectors thread onto. 












Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## BVH

Great info! I just found in the manual that the "left" 26-pin connector in your pic is a "test" connector and the right 26-pin connector is used to run the light. Some of the control boxes have a "surprise" adapter located in the bottom of the box. I would guess this adapter is screwed onto the "test" connector to allow connection to the test equipment.


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