# Spindle Bore Versus Rest



## GreyShark (Jul 6, 2009)

I'm getting a lathe soon and I've narrowed my selection down to the Lathemaster 8x14 or the Grizzly 10x22. The strongest reason I'd go for the 10x22 is that I have read it has a one inch spindle bore which would be useful for making up to 18mm hosts. The trouble is it isn't big enough for 26mm cells which I'm also interested in so it seems I'd have to end up using a rest for some projects anyway.

Getting a bigger lathe just isn't an option at this time because there's no way I'd get anything bigger up the stairs into my shop and I doubt the floor would safely support a half ton machine. In a few years I'll have a better setup that could easily accommodate a heavy lathe but by then I'll want two lathes anyway so I can stage two different processes. Lighter is my friend for now and I'm leaning toward the 8x14 as being the all around best for my current circumstances.

So my question is what's your opinion on the practical aspects of the spindle bore versus using a rest for things like cutting threads?


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## BoarHunter (Jul 7, 2009)

GreyShark said:


> I'm getting a lathe soon and I've narrowed my selection down to the Lathemaster 8x14 or the Grizzly 10x22. The strongest reason I'd go for the 10x22 is that I have read it has a one inch spindle bore which would be useful for making up to 18mm hosts. The trouble is it isn't big enough for 26mm cells which I'm also interested in so it seems I'd have to end up using a rest for some projects anyway.
> 
> Getting a bigger lathe just isn't an option at this time because there's no way I'd get anything bigger up the stairs into my shop and I doubt the floor would safely support a half ton machine. In a few years I'll have a better setup that could easily accommodate a heavy lathe but by then I'll want two lathes anyway so I can stage two different processes. Lighter is my friend for now and I'm leaning toward the 8x14 as being the all around best for my current circumstances.
> 
> So my question is what's your opinion on the practical aspects of the spindle bore versus using a rest for things like cutting threads?



Check with the supplier ! Most probably it can accomodate a 26mm bar. 

These machines are designed in metric but they "translate" to US customs units but round the value.

It is like the 13mm chucks that are given as 1/2" for the US market.


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## GreyShark (Jul 7, 2009)

It's weirder than just metric/inch conversion. Grizzly says it has a 1 inch spindle bore, as do some reviewers. Other reviewers say it has only 3/4".


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## BoarHunter (Jul 7, 2009)

GreyShark said:


> It's weirder than just metric/inch conversion. Grizzly says it has a 1 inch spindle bore, as do some reviewers. Other reviewers say it has only 3/4".



for small lathe common bore are 16, 20 26 (in fact a few tenth bigger to accomodate a bar of the said size which are standard stock). If the US spec gives 3/4" that is a 20mm, 1" 26mm.
For modern equipment, always refer to the original specs which are metric, inch specs are not accurate because they would lead to funny fractions for ex. and US customers would get puzzled.
Same for cars. Compare the US catalogs to standard one where sizes are given up to the mm.


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## Tekno_Cowboy (Jul 7, 2009)

I recommend going with the Lathemaster 8x14, unless you can get a really good deal on the HF 8x12. They are almost identical lathes, but the lathemaster comes with quite a few more add-ons. The Lathemaster QCTP is also a _very_ recommended upgrade.


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## Anglepoise (Jul 7, 2009)

Having a large spindle hole is a very nice luxury but if one needs to bore a long tube that will not enter the chuck deep enough, one can use a steady and a clamped on collar to protect the OD of the item being bored. I am always amazed at just what can be accomplished by us amateur enthusiasts. Having lots of time helps.


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## GreyShark (Jul 8, 2009)

I'm leaning towards the Lathemaster 8x14. The more I think about it the more I realize most of the projects I'm interested in are going to be too large for a one inch spindle bore anyway and the next size up from there is just too expensive and heavy of an upgrade. I'll worry about the big lathe a few years from now when I have a real shop. In the meantime I'm getting a heavy duty steel work bench to mount the lathe on, then I'll order the lathe. I looked at the HF version and most owners seem happy with it but I trust Lathemaster a bit more and I like the color better too.

A lathe will be the perfect compliment to my forging and casting facilities.


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## gadget_lover (Jul 8, 2009)

Forging? 

Casting???

You are a lucky guy. Fire and molten metal in the backyard is where my wife draws the line.

Daniel


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## Tekno_Cowboy (Jul 8, 2009)

It's always fun melting down old engine blocks in the fire-pit 
(or if you're less adventurous, beer cans :naughty


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## xl97 (Jul 8, 2009)

Im not sure of what all tools you get with the LatheMaster version..

but the HF 8x12 is really an 8x14..an is the same machine (different color) as the LatheMaster 8x14..

You can almost always get a 20% off coupon for HF...

and for a while..(maybe still?) the lathe was on sale for $449.. with - 20% off..

I got mine for $360 out the door..

That left me with some room to get my own tooling and research what I wanted.

the AxA QCTP by either LatheMaster or LittleMachineShop is definitely worth it..

just understand what you are getting with both..

the LM version uses the stock rest..but comes with a new post I believe..

you also need to buy their (or make your own) tool holders..and they have ones that are specifically made for the 8x12/14 lathe...they are shimmed at the bottom a little..so you can get your tool down low enough to be center.

I have 'read' that even with these modified tool holders.. using 1/2" shank tools..you still can NOT get low enough to be center.. (but I cant confirm that myself)

the LMS version, you need to buy a modified compound rest from them.. this also needs to have two holes drilled/tapped so you add on the fine tuning knob/wheel from the original rest top.

the tool holders are UN-modified..and can be bought anywhere/by anyone that has AxA tool holders.. usually around $6/$7 bucks from certain places..

(vs. the $16+ bucks for the modified ones at LatheMaster)

its nice to be able to drop in a new tool holder to change out tasks quickly..

"I" personally went with the LMS version..

well to be frank...LatheMaster didnt even time to answer my emails..

and LMS replied back to me EVERY time.. (and there were quite a few emails)

there is also another QCTP that people like..

the A2Z one..which I hear great things about...

the only bad things I 'have' heard was.
1.) made out of aluminum..so might have some flex at times

2.) rather 'small' on an 8x12/14 lathe.. more for the 7x mini's..


I am very new to this hobby..but I am very happy with my HF 8x12(14) lathe..

my only gripe would be 2 things that are missing from the 7x mini's..

a.) not a variable speed POT..you need to change belt/pulleys

b.) no lever based feed reverse.. =(

the first can be done as a mod for around $100-150 bucks..

not sure of the second can be done as a mo.. I think I read of it only once.


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## gadget_lover (Jul 8, 2009)

A note about the use of using 1/2" shank tools with the 8x14.

Some folks shave off the bottom of the tool holder, some mill down the plinth (shelf) that holds the tool post.

The real solution is to use tools sized for the lathe. Instead of taking 1/8 inch off the tool holder (weakening the tool holder) you can simply buy a tool that is that much smaller. For a small lathe the 3/8 inch tools will not necessarily have much more flex than a 1/2 inch tool in a tool holder who's bottom has been shaved to be only 1/8 inch thick.

I could, of course, be all wet. 

Daniel


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## Tekno_Cowboy (Jul 8, 2009)

xl97 said:


> the AxA QCTP by either LatheMaster or LittleMachineShop is definitely worth it..


+1 for the LatheMaster version.


> I have 'read' that even with these modified tool holders.. using 1/2" shank tools..you still can NOT get low enough to be center.. (but I cant confirm that myself)


I've had no issues with 1/2" boring bars, but turning tools might be different.



> .. this also needs to have two holes drilled/tapped so you add on the fine tuning knob/wheel from the original rest top.


Fine tuning knob? Just what is that part and what does it look like?



> well to be frank...LatheMaster didnt even time to answer my emails..


I just gave the guy a call. He answered on the first ring.



> there is also another QCTP that people like..
> 
> the A2Z one..which I hear great things about...
> 
> ...


I wouldn't recommend this one, unless you really need a few extra bucks. The Lathemaster version is _far_ better.

The A2Z unit has tons of play and poor repeatability. The wedge system used by the Lathemaster unit is much stiffer, more repeatable, and has almost no play.


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## xl97 (Jul 8, 2009)

TC-

I agree.. Im VERY happy that I got the AxA instead of the A2Z QCTP..

I guess going the AxA route for an 8x12/14 lathe.. you just need to decide what you want to do..

modified tool post..(which comes with) or modified compound rest. (which is extra @ LMS..and also needs some work)

I chose to do the later.. because after 2-3 emails to LatheMaster..I go no reply.

and Chris @ LMS was very helpful..and open about all the questions.. even when some of the answers meant not getting things/parts from him...

I was mis-guided (or just uneducated...maybe both) going the LMS route though..and at first was disappointed. That it needed two holes drilled/tapped.

here are some pics.

stock vs. modified rest top:






holes that needed to be drilled:





you also need to take off the base plate of the AxA to use it on the new rest top.. so there is enough post to thread it into the new rest top:







misc pics:


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## Tekno_Cowboy (Jul 8, 2009)

Instead of going the LMS modified part, you could have the stock one milled flush and drilled/tapped for a larger stud. That would also give the benefit of greater rigidity.


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## xl97 (Jul 8, 2009)

having that done would have cost about the same as what a new rest would have cost me..

I dont (dint) know anyone with a mill.. before I purchased it..

the new rest is also more then just flush..its a little lower..

but has a larger OD 'stud' the original stock 'stud'...


I was told the LMS route was 'also' a bolt on addition that needed no modifications.

my thoughts on this (being a noobie of course) was, 

If they both were direct bolt-on additions, needing no modifications..


I would go the LMS route..so I wouldnt have to worry about modified tool holders ever.. (and could pick them up anywhere)

and it for some reason I 'did' need a 1/2" tool (which I had 'read' somewhere didnt get low enough to be center).. I could order a few modified tool holders for my LMS set-up..and have everything I could need.

either way Im happy.. holes are drilled & tapped.. everything works great..

and I have my complete stock set-up there if I every need it for anything..rest, post/holder

but Im just learning.. so who knows..


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## GreyShark (Jul 16, 2009)

gadget_lover said:


> Forging?
> 
> Casting???
> 
> ...





It helps that my yard is the size of a small neighborhood. Actually that fact is largely responsible for me getting into flashlights in the first place. 

Thanks for the responses everybody. I think I'm going to get a QCTP and a set of indexible tools immediately. They just seem like they'll go a long way towards making the use of the lathe less like work and more like fun which is important.

FWIW I have heard LatheMaster is great about answering the phone and not so great about answering emails. Harbor Freight is usually local but usually doesn't know much about their products, but they do have low prices. So I guess you just have to figure out which support package you prefer.


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