# Acebeam T20 Thrower (XP-L HI NW, 1x18650/2xCR123A, 2x18650/4xCR123A) Review



## candle lamp (Sep 28, 2015)

Acebeam has released their XP-L HI throwing light, the T20. The light runs on 2x18650 or 4xCR123A with an extender. 











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Packaging is the same as Acebeam T25 I reviewed. Inside the nice cardboard box, everything is firmly secured in cut-out foam. You will find the light with belt holster, two spare o-rings, tailcap rubber button cap, lanyard, manual and warranty card.
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*Manufacturer Specifications* from Acebeam website & manual :

• Cree XP-L high intensity LED with lifespan 20yrs of runtimes
• Max 1500 lumens output (2x18650) 
• Output
- Level 1 : 0.5lm
- Level 2 : 50lm
- Level 4 : 300lm
- Level 5 : 700lm
- Level 6 : 1,500lm
- Strobe : 1,500lm 
• Working voltage : 3v~12v
• Max. Runtime : 1,200hrs
• Max beam : 1,050 meters
• Peak beam intensity : 275,500cd
• Aircraft grade aluminum body structure
• Premium Type III hard anodized anti-abrasive finish
• Ultra-clear tempered glass lens with anti-reflective coating
• Momentary forward click tactical switch
• Strobe mode for tactical and emergency use
• Smooth reflector for max. light output
• Highly focus beam for maximum distance
• Tactical knurling for firm grip
• Streamlined body design
• Electronic reversed polarity protected design
• Intelligent high efficient circuit for max. performance and runtime
• Intelligent temperature controlled light output for safety
• Impact resistant : 1.2meters
• Waterproof : IPX-8 Standard (2meters)
• Size : 251mm(length)×70mm(head)×25.4mm(tube)
• Weight : 290g
• Battery : 4×CR123A or 2×18650






Note : The above data has been measured in accordance with the international flashlight testing standards ANSI/NEMA FL 1 using the Acebeam battery (two LG HE2 2500mAh 18650) under laboratory conditions. The data may vary during real-world use due to battery type, individual usage habits and environmental factors. 
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The overall shape and design is similar to the T25, with a smaller head, body tube and tailcap.
The hard (type III) anodizing is a matt black and consistent throughout with no chips or blemishes to be found on my sample. Labels are minimal, but clear in bright white against the black background. There is knurling on the 2x18650 extender tube only. There is nothing on the body works as an anti-roll device. But if you attach the lanyard came with the light, it will help a little to prevent rolling.
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The light comes apart into four parts (i.e. head, two battery tubes and tailcap) without the use of tools. 
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The light has a shallow crenellated stainless steel bezel ring, but not being removable on my sample. The T20 has a number of raised concentric rings near the head of the light to help with grip and heat dissipation. There is a spring in the head, however true flat-top 18650 unprotected cells don't work, due to the longer battery tube. Note that you should use longer button-top 18650 cells. The light has a low voltage warning indication (i.e., it will flash about 3 times every 10 secs when the batteries voltage is 6V for 2x18650's). If you use 1x18650, the light will flash at 3V. The light does have electronic reverse polarity protection function to protect from improper battery installation. 
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The light uses ultra-clear tempered AR coating lens. The purple hue is reflected on it. The reflector is clean smooth type. Its surface finish is good from visual inspection, and well-centered XP-L HI V2 LED sits at the bottom of the reflector cup. The reflector is large and deep. This should translate into good throw.

According to Cree, the XLamp XP-L High Intensity (HI) LED is the first of Cree’s new class of High Intensity (HI) LEDs optimized to deliver maximum candela through secondary optics. Built on Cree's breakthrough SC5 Technology™Platform, the XP-L HI LED delivers 120 percent more candela than the XP-L HD LED through the same optic. You can see the Cree XP-L specification sheet for more information.
Acebeam claims that they used XP-L HI (V2) 4000K for the T25.
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The distinctive aspect of the light is the dual-side switch in the head to control the light. These switches are electronic switches, and control the output levels of the light when on (by a tailcap switch). Note that strobe can be activated directly when on by pressing the upper switch. The switch cap is slightly protruded from a metal surround, but quite set lower position than the head. The switch cap seems silicone rubber.
The switch has a good feel to touch and has typical travel, which produces a clear and audible clicking sound when pressed. Scroll down for an explanation of the user interface.
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The battery tube has a cylindrical tube design and you can run 2x18650's or 4xCR123A's with the battery extender. The 1x18650 battery tube has six longitudinal deep grooves, and 2x18650 extender is mostly covered with knurling. The knurling is somewhat aggressive. Grip is good. The wall thickness (3.1mm) of the battery tube seems quite thick.

As described above, I recommend you stick with button-top protected 18650 cells (small and large button top both worked fine in my testing).
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The threads at each end are well machined, with those at ends of the battery tube being anodized which allow the light to be locked-out when the tailcap is slightly loosened. All connection ends are fully anodized as well. The screws threads are good quality square-cut. My sample has a good amount of lube on each end of the tube. Threads on each end of the battery tube mate well with no issues of cross-threading or grinding. 
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The T20 has a rubber grip ring and attachment point for lanyard which are all removable.
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The tailcap switch is a forward clicky with good feel. The rubber switch cap does protrude at the tail end. It means the tail switch can be very easy to access, even when you are wearing gloves. The switch has a bit stiff tension with tactile clicking feedback. 
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*User Interface*

The light is turned on/off by the forward tail switch (i.e., press for momentary on, click for lock on). Mode switching is controlled by the lower side switch in the head. When On, press and release (i.e., click) the lower mode switch repeatedly to cycle between the five main output levels in the following repeating sequence : Turbo -> High –> Med. –> Low -> Firefly.
The light has mode memory. The light will come back on in last output used when connecting/activating the tailcap.

Note that you can access the momentary Strobe mode by a press-hold of the upper side switch when on. Just release to turn off Strobe. 

Thanks to the physical forward tail clicky switch, there's no standby current drain when off.
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From left to right, VicLite 18650(2600mAh) protected, Olight SR52UT (XP-L HI V2), Olight M3XS-UT (Dedomed XP-L), Acebeam T20 (XP-L HI V2), Acebeam T25 (XHP50 J4).
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The light comes with a basic nylon belt holster with a velcro strap on the head. The light fits in the holster head-up. It has a loop allows to carry it in horizontal position for belt.
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T20 is long light with a wide head for this class, as expected from a 2x18650's (or 4xCR123A's) powered light since the batteries are arranged end-to-end. The overall size and weight of the light is reasonable for this class. Overall grip is good. *Overall build quality* is excellent.
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*Measured Dimensions & Weight*




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*PWM*





The T20 shows no sign of PWM at any output levels. I do think the light is constant current controlled. I noticed there is no buzzing sound at any levels. 
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*Runtime* 






The runtime to fall to 10% of its initial output from 30 seconds after the point the light is first turned on (i.e., based on ANSI FL-1) for Turbo is as above graph :
On Turbo on 2x18650's, the light steps down after about 5mins, and it enter a period of flat regulation, before flashing for low battery indication. 

On Turbo, the light is semi-regulated on 1x18650 (i.e., slowly drop in output). You will not be able to notice the drop in output over time in practice. Note that you will get more initial output on good quality high current 18650 cell, as seen. 

The light gets a little warm on Turbo on 2x18650's at the side switch part after 40secs. After about 3~4mins, a half of the head and side switch part get quickly hot.
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On High, the light maintains perfectly flat regulation for an extended period, before flashing for low battery indication.
I make no doubt that flat regulation will be evident on Med., Low and Firefly. Note that there are big blips near the end of the run which are from the low-battery warning function of the light (i.e., the light starts blinking for low battery warning at 6V working voltage on 2x18650's as manufacturer says). The flashing is at a fast rate, about three times every 10 secs. 
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The timed stepped-down output from Turbo is much brighter than High.
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The T20 is brighter on Max. than the other lights in the 2x18650 XP-L or XM-L(2) class. Overall output-runtime efficiency seems good for the class. 
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*Beamshot*

1. White door beamshot (about 50cm from the white door) on max. output on 2x18650 (2600mAh) VicLite protected cells 
- ISO125, F/8.0, 1/25sec, Auto white balance 














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- ISO125, F/8.0, 1/100sec, Auto white balance














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- ISO125, F/8.0, 1/800sec, Auto white balance














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- ISO125, F/8.0, 1/2000sec, Auto white balance















The light shows a defined narrow hot spot and large spill beam.
The hot spot is well focused and a corona surrounds the bright hot spot. The beam profile is very clean. The beam has a fairly nice warm yellow tint as claims. 
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This is comparison beamshot between Olight M3XS-UT and Acebeam T20 (about 50cm from the white door) on max. output on 2x18650 (2600mAh) VicLite protected cells. 
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The above shows a comparison beamshot between Olight SR52UT and Acebeam T20 (about 50cm from the white door) on max. output on 2x18650 (2600mAh) VicLite protected cells. 
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2. 55m Outdoor Beamshot on max. output on 2x 18650 (2600mAh) VicLite protected cells 
- ISO125, F/2.8, 1sec, Auto white balance




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3. 85m Outdoor Beamshot on max. output on 2x18650 (2600mAh) VicLite protected cells 
- ISO125, F/2.8, 1sec, Auto white balance




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4. 120m Outdoor Beamshot on max. output on 2x18650 (2600mAh) VicLite protected cells 
- ISO100, F/2.8, 1sec, Auto white balance




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5. 390m Outdoor Beamshot on max. output on 2x18650 (2600mAh) VicLite protected cells 
- ISO125, F/2.8, 1sec, Auto white balance




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The T20 is an outstanding thrower for its class. Like the Olight M3XS-UT, it has a fairly tightly focused hotspot. The T20 stands shoulder to shoulder with it. This is number one stock domeless XP-L HI throwing flashlight I have tested to date.
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The T20 gives you a nice firefly output level.
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*Overall Impressions*

• Build quality is excellent
• You can use 1x18650 (or 2xCR123A's), and 2x18650's (or 4xCR123A's) with an extender
• Electrical reverse polarity protection function
• Secondary Strobe switch on the head (i.e., You can access to Strobe directly)
• Firefly mode is available
• Low battery warning indication function (i.e., the light blinks about 3 times every 10secs when the working voltage is down to 6V with 2x18650's)
• No sign of PWM flickers at any output modes
• Good warm yellow tint, and fairly nice beam pattern
• No anti-roll indentations on the body
• True flat-top 18650 unprotected batteries (due to short length) will not work
• Number one stock XP-L HI throwing flashlight I have tested to date (i.e., it's true domeless XP-L HI).

Acebeam T20 was supplied by Acebeam for review.


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## kj2 (Sep 28, 2015)

Thanks for the review


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## kj75 (Sep 28, 2015)

Great to see XP-L HI that has a nice warm tint :twothumbs

Thank you for your effort!


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## candle lamp (Sep 28, 2015)

Thank you for your support. kj2 & kj75! 

No doubt the T20 has a very good yellow tint with excellent tight beam.


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## Sway (Sep 28, 2015)

Thanks for the review it was helpful :thumbsup:


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## S3MKi (Sep 28, 2015)

thanks. good review.


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## tab665 (Sep 29, 2015)

the tint on this light really shines in those outdoor shots, especially when at greater distances and the SR52 gets more "blue". if the SR52UT had gone with a more neutral tint i would have been all over it.


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## UnderPar (Sep 29, 2015)

As usual, great detailed review CL!! :thumbsup:...... Seems to be an interesting light. Thank you for sharing this...


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## Mr. Tone (Sep 30, 2015)

Thanks for the great review. Acebeam seems to have really hit a homerun with this light, and it is especially nice that they used a neutral white emitter. The thing I wish manufacturers would do with this size of light is to use 2x26650 instead of 2x18650. A user can always use 18650 batteries in a 26650 light but not the other way around. The size of the heads on the throwers is disproportional to the body size of 18650. In addition to better ergonomics and balance, additional runtime would also be gained by going with 26650.


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## candle lamp (Sep 30, 2015)

Thanks for all your support. tab665, UnderPar, Mt. Tone! 



Mr. Tone said:


> The thing I wish manufacturers would do with this size of light is to use 2x26650 instead of 2x18650. A user can always use 18650 batteries in a 26650 light but not the other way around. The size of the heads on the throwers is disproportional to the body size of 18650. In addition to better ergonomics and balance, additional runtime would also be gained by going with 26650.



Yes, There's reason in what you say. Like the _*T25*_, you can use 2x18650 with a battery holder as well. I share your view.


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## fnsooner (Oct 3, 2015)

You are costing me a lot of money candle lamp. I bought my first Acebeam(K60) about a month ago and was so impressed that I gave this one a hard look. That 4000k tint was my weak spot. Ordered. 


I have been needing to upgrade my throwers any ways. Thanks for the review.


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## candle lamp (Oct 3, 2015)

fnsooner said:


> You are costing me a lot of money candle lamp. I bought my first Acebeam(K60) about a month ago and was so impressed that I gave this one a hard look. That 4000k tint was my weak spot. Ordered.
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> 
> I have been needing to upgrade my throwers any ways. Thanks for the review.



The 4000K neutral tint does seem a little tight spot for thrower, but it has a peculiar and nice spot of its own, in my view. 

Even though it's your weak spot, you ordered. You may be a big fan of neutral tint. :naughty:


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## scs (Oct 28, 2015)




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## RBH (Nov 27, 2015)

Get this or the M3XS-UT, will the T-20 fully match the Javelot in throw ? 

Thanks Bruce


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## Fusion_m8 (Nov 27, 2015)

Got my T20 3days ago, bought it from EXTAC Australia. The tint on mine is nowhere near 4000k, more like 5000k-5500k. Compared to my NW XM-L lights, the tint on my T20 is nowhere as neutral white. How many versions of this light is available on the market? I was only aware of 1 version... I'm hoping I didn't get a dud!

Bugger... I was in this for the 4000k tint...ended up with a cool tint light...:ironic:

*Acebeam T20 on left, Thrunite TN32 NW on right:*


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## candle lamp (Nov 28, 2015)

RBH said:


> Get this or the M3XS-UT, will the T-20 fully match the Javelot in throw ?
> 
> Thanks Bruce



In my eyes, both lights are neck and neck. The two are evenly matched in throw.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 28, 2015)

candle lamp said:


> In my eyes, both lights are neck and neck. The two are evenly matched in throw.



Initially, at least, the *Olight M3XS-UT Javelot* did not have a true HI emitter. Olight was performing its own de-doming operation. That meant that tint was inconsistent or just plain bad. 

You can read through this thread to learn more. 



jfong said:


> I expected the M3XS-UT Javelot to have an XP-L HI as was advertised and hyped in initial marketing. The torch I got had a factory de-domed XP-L instead. (I don't want to speak for everyone else, but that seems to be the situation universally).



Click the 

 symbol to open the thread.


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## Fusion_m8 (Nov 28, 2015)

KeepingItLight:

So according to kj2's review on 6/20: "The M3XS uses a Cree XP-L high intensity led. This led is domeless, and gives a cooler tint than the dedomed (standard XP-L HD emitter) M2X. Together with the smooth reflector, it throws great!" I gather that the warmer tint lights are NOT XP-L HI emitters but dedomed standard XP-L HD emitters. So the REAL XP-L HI models have a cooler tint than XP-L HD dedomed lights. So buyers are basically paying money for a lucky draw as to what they are actually legally entitled to? RIDICULOUS!!!

This is no comfort to me because it appears the manufacturers of these flashlights are a bunch of deceitful salespeople who cannot be trusted.


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## RBH (Nov 28, 2015)

Thanks, how off putting do you find the green tint of the Javelot in person. In most of the videos I've seen, it looks really bad.



candle lamp said:


> In my eyes, both lights are neck and neck. The two are evenly matched in throw.


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## candle lamp (Nov 28, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> Initially, at least, the *Olight M3XS-UT Javelot* did not have a true HI emitter. Olight was performing its own de-doming operation. That meant that tint was inconsistent or just plain bad.
> 
> You can read through this thread to learn more.



I already know what you mention, as I reviewed the M3XS-UT as well. What I found was both M3XS-UT (dedomed XP-L HD) and T20 (domeless XP-L HI) are evenly matched in throw in my eyes.



RBH said:


> Thanks, how off putting do you find the green tint of the Javelot in person. In most of the videos I've seen, it looks really bad.



It's one of the characteristics of the dedomed emitters (i.e., tint shift).


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 29, 2015)

I will be getting my first XP-L HI emitter when I buy the *BLF X6/X5 Special Edition* flashlight set. It is due to begin shipping very soon, perhaps in December or January. Until then, I can only tell you what I have read. 

The *Cree XP-L HI* emitter is not binned for tint until after it has been given its protective coating. That means that the tint bins assigned by Cree are accurate. When you buy a 4800K emitter, that is what you get. When Olight de-domes an emitter, its tint will shift. You won't the get the tint the original emitter was binned for. Thus, there is a world of difference between the two.


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## candle lamp (Nov 29, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> I will be getting my first XP-L HI emitter when I buy the *BLF X6/X5 Special Edition* flashlight set. It is due to begin shipping very soon, perhaps in December or January. Until then, I can only tell you what I have read.
> 
> The *Cree XP-L HI* emitter is not binned for tint until after it has been given its protective coating. That means that the tint bins assigned by Cree are accurate. When you buy a 4800K emitter, that is what you get. When Olight de-domes an emitter, its tint will shift. You won't the get the tint the original emitter was binned for. Thus, there is a world of difference between the two.



I don't mean the tint difference between the two emitters or lights, but the throw only. 
It seems you don't understand what the post #14 says exactly.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 29, 2015)

candle lamp said:


> I don't mean the tint difference between the two emitters or lights, but the throw only.
> It seems you don't understand what the post #14 says exactly.



Sorry for the confusion. I understood the earlier post. 

The difference in tint is worth explaining, especially for those who might otherwise think the lights are equal.


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## Fusion_m8 (Nov 30, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> Sorry for the confusion. I understood the earlier post.
> 
> The difference in tint is worth explaining, especially for those who might otherwise think the lights are equal.



Its all good KIL, I don't see the need for an apology since he didn't understand himself what you were on about.


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## candle lamp (Nov 30, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> Sorry for the confusion. I understood the earlier post.
> 
> The difference in tint is worth explaining, especially for those who might otherwise think the lights are equal.



Oh! I see. That's what you meant. Thanks for the explanation about the subject. If necessary, please leave your thought or knowledge in the comments often. It's very helpful.


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## KeepingItLight (Dec 2, 2015)

No problem. It's hard to shut me up!

Love your reviews.


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