# Pimping-out your own Nuwai Q-III tailswitch!



## milkyspit (May 13, 2005)

*PIMPING-OUT YOUR OWN NUWAI Q-III TAILSWITCH!*

For months (and months, and months...) I've wanted to post a "howto" guide to pimping-out the tailswitch in Nuwai's Quantum-III (a.k.a. Q-III, QIII, Q3... plus OMBU and many more) flashlight. This is a really cute little light with good ergonomics in general and lots of modding possibilities. In fact, the Milky labs have lately become more of a pimpadelic emporium! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif I have been, and continue to mod (oops, pimp out) these little puppies on behalf of all sorts of CPFers.

This particular post, however, focuses on the task of transforming the tailcap on the Q3 from a simple on-off reverse tactical clicky that cannot stand on end due to the protruding rubber boot... to a dual stage (low-off-high-off) clicky with rubber boot recessed into the tail so the Q3 *can* stand upright. A number of folks have purchased the dual stage switches from me in the past couple months, and this guide will help them mod their Q3. (Incidentally, I've still got some switches available... PM if you need some.)

Let's begin, shall we? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

First, of course, you'll want to unscrew the tailcap from the Q3 flashlight. Here's the object of our pimping, in its pre-pimp, or stock form. Yes, I know this is trivial, but ya gotta start somewhere! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

*Stock Nuwai Q-III Tailcap*






Inside the tailcap, if you look closely, you'll see a transparent threaded retaining ring with a spring rising from its center. Notice that the ring itself has two notches on opposite edges, at roughly the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions in the photo...

*Looking Into the Stock Tailcap, At the Threaded Retaining Ring*





A small pair of needlenose pliers and a gentle touch will unscrew the retaining ring with no damage. It's not glued or otherwise locked in place, so it should simply unscrew then come out completely.

*Unscrewing the Internal Retaining Ring*





Voila! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/party.gif At last you've got the retaining ring out of the tail, and now we can see the back of the circuit board to which the switch is attached. You'll see! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

*Tailcap with Retaining Ring Removed*





That pesky little circuit board is a bit tricky to dislodge! Here's how I do it (shown in the next photo)... hold the board INSIDE the tailcap with the index finger of your left hand, and press the rubber boot INTO the tail using one of the fingers of your right hand. The finger inside the tail needs to keep the board wiggling a little one way or the other, but not too much or the board will get stuck. Just keep pressing with the right finger, and wiggling with the left finger, and eventually the board, switch, boot and all will pop out!

*Removing the Board... the Two Finger Method!*





See how the boot is not sitting inside the tail? The switch assembly is just about out. Keep going!

*Tailswitch Assembly Partway Removed From the Tail*





It's out! If all went well, this is what the guts of your tailcap look like...

*Tailcap Degutted*





Turning our attention to the threaded retaining ring, we'll need to remove the spring from it temporarily. To do that, notice the slot in the center of the clear plastic, and the hook in the center of the spring. Rotate the spring until hook lines up with slot, then remove the spring. You might need the needlenose pliers to help you rotate the spring... sometimes it's pretty difficult! Just don't break anything in the process. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

*Threaded Ring with Spring Removed*





The rubber boot sits atop a hard plastic frame. Both should lift off the switch itself easily.

*Rubber Boot and Hard Plastic Lifted Off the Switch*





Next we'll have to remove the stock switch from the board. Here's what the board's underside looks like, for reference. Pay particular attention to that solder "smudge" toward the bottom edge... we'll be coming back to that later...

*Underside of the Switch Circuit Board*





Now flip the board upright and snip the leads of the stock switch as close as you can to the board itself. I find that snipping the leads in this way is much easier than trying to desolder the switch, but either technique ought to work. Once snipped, the stock switch should come off the board easily!

*Stock Switch, Snipped!*





The dual stage switch is identical in side to the stock one, and actually feels like it's higher quality in construction. It just feels right.

But it's got a problem... the leads extend too far out to fit inside the tailcap! So gently, ever so gently, straighten the three leads, then fold them downward as close to the switch body as possible. Here's a comparison of before and after rebending the leads...

*Leads Before (left) and After (right) Rebending*





One interesting quirk is that the Q3 board is already designed for dual brightness operation! Notice how it's got three holes aligned with the three leads coming from the switch. But the leads are too long, and will have to be clipped shorter so they JUST reach the circuit board itself. Don't worry about getting them THROUGH the holes on the board... a solder attachment from the topside will suffice.

*Leads Aligned With the Three Holes*





Pre-tin both the solder pads on the board, and the three leads themselves... that'll help form stronger connections. Now position the switch and one by one, melt a little more solder so it flows down the lead and into the hole. Take your time and do this step right, as you'll need good connections to ensure reliable operation.

*Dual Stage Switch After Surface Soldering to Board*





Oops! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif Notice one more thing in the photo above. See the two little solder dots in the foreground, next to the bottom edge of the switch? Those are the same connections that were bridged on the board's underside by that solder "smudge." You now have a choice of how to attach resistance for the low beam: either solder a couple surface mount resistors flat against the underside of the board in place of the bridge... or solder a conventional resistor to these two little solder dots (which are actually holes) on the topside. If you choose the latter, you'll need to protect the resistor itself from getting scraped against the sides of the tailcap during reinstallation... in this case, I'm using a small piece of heatshrink tubing to protect the resistor.

*Conventional Resistor Soldered Upright and Covered With a Protective Jacket of Heatshrink Tubing*





That solder bridge on the underside of the board will need to be melted away regardless of which type of resistor you use... otherwise you'll short out the resistance and end up with two high beams! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

*Solder Bridge Removed on Board's Underside*





Once again we turn our attention to the threaded ring. When we recess the switch boot, that'll force everything else in the tailcap to move inward, and there's usually not enough space remaining for the 123 cell! To resolve this dilemma, I take a Dremel with a tiny cutting wheel and slice the ring in half as shown... note that you'll also need to make two new notches with which to tighten the ring (those are also shown).

*Threaded Ring Split in Half*





Now find an O-ring that'll fit inside the tailcap... if you can't get an exact fit, I've found that a slightly large O-ring is preferable to a slightly small one. Just cram it down there as best you can, keeping it pressed out to the edges of the tube... then press the rubber boot and hard plastic frame back into the tail. If should extend out the back far enough to press with a finger, but still be recessed enough to stand the tail upright.

*O-ring, Rubber Boot, and Tailcap*





Next, wiggle the board back into the tailcap VERY gingerly! You don't want to short out the switch leads against the sides, strip the enamel off the resistor, etc. Just take it steady, and it should go in fine.

*Circuit Board Replaced In the Tailcap*





This is what a recessed switch boot should look like...

*Tailcap, Recessed!*





Finally, attach the spring to the cut-down threaded retaining ring, giving a little twist to lock the hooked part in... then thread back into the tailcap. Put the modded tail on your Q3, and fire it up! You're done! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif

One final note: like many folks, I initially wanted a switch that would give me low-high-off, then repeat, but the low-OFF-high-off (then repeat) was all I could find. Since then, I actually prefer this arrangement! That's because it's more consistent. A single click will always turn the light on or off... and once the light is on, a double click will always toggle between the low and high beams. It's a little like having a poor man's Arc4+ or one of its descendents! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## Krit (May 13, 2005)

Good demonstration. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif


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## Phreeq (May 13, 2005)

Thanks for the "howto" guide for dummies, Milkyspit. 
Does the switch you installed allow for momentary action?


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## nekomane (May 13, 2005)

Great post!!
PM sent on the switch.


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## Phaserburn (May 13, 2005)

Fantastic post, Milky! You've done some technical writing before, no?


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## goldserve (May 13, 2005)

Great work Milky!


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## wquiles (May 13, 2005)

Scott,

Sorry if I missed it, but is the new double mode switch still reversed (no momentary ON)?

Will


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## bwaites (May 13, 2005)

Where do I get the switches?

Bill


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## cgpeanut (May 13, 2005)

Thanks Milky you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif I've always wanted to make it stand on it;s tail end.


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## goldserve (May 13, 2005)

Milky has the switches for sale and I have 26 more switches as well. PM either of us.


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## chevrofreak (May 13, 2005)

what resistor is recomended?


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## AvroArrow (May 13, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
what resistor is recomended?

[/ QUOTE ]

If I recall correctly, Milkyspit recommended two 10ohm resistors in parallel to give 5ohms total resistance for the stock circuit. I tried two 20ohms, 15ohms, 10ohms, and found that for me, two 15ohms (7.5ohms total) is perfect. 5ohms resistance is too bright for me, it's dimmer than full power, but not that dim. 10ohms is ArcAAA brightness, too dim. 7.5ohms is about twice as bright as ArcAAA, so it's perfect for me, but YMMV.

*EDIT* Oh yeah, forgot to mention that these resistance figures/observations only apply when using a R123. I didn't try the different resistances with a regular CR123 primary cell.


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## Marc (May 13, 2005)

I've used both 5ohms & 10ohms on R123. 5ohms is way too bright and the light gets hot pretty quickly. For me, 10ohms is the way to go on R123. Can't remember how 10ohms compares against an Ultra-G, but it's 2-3x brighter I guess.


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## NetMage (May 13, 2005)

Great post!

I believe its a #10 o-ring that works?


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## AvroArrow (May 13, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
I believe its a #10 o-ring that works?

[/ QUOTE ]

I think it was actually a #21 O-ring at Home Depot, but I may be wrong. Either way, Canadian Home Depots don't carry any o-rings that fit. If you really can't find them locally (like me), you can get ones that fit from Lambda. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I was rummaging through my flashlight stuff, and found that the 5/8"x1/2" retaining o-ring that Lambda provides with his older pill drop-ins happens to be a perfect fit. Lucky for me, I was able to order a bunch with my MJLED order.

And kudos to Milkyspit for such a nice tutorial. Wish I had read this before modding mine. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I actually ground down the prongs of the switch with my Dremel (I don't have a file) until they were narrow enough to fit through the 3 holes, and then soldered them. The ground down prongs looked pretty ghetto afterwards, but it works. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif


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## milkyspit (May 16, 2005)

Thanks for all the comments, folks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

PMs replied for everyone that sent one... uh, I think! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

Will (wquiles), yes, the double mode switch is still reversed. I don't think we'll find a dual brightness switch for the Q3 that ALSO handles momentary on at both brightness levels... it would actually be a pretty complicated part! (Remember, these switches are mechanical.) That's one area where a microcontrolled switch would be handy, though at greater complexity and overall cost.

I did post in my original "pimped-out" thread about an idea of mine to take two pieces of copper foil and space them with a thin piece of rubber, or perhaps some weatherstripping foam, so they would be pressed together when the user started to push the tail to click the pushbutton. You could get a momentary high OR low in this way, but not both.

Bill (bwaites), I think goldserve answered your question: "Milky has the switches for sale and I have 26 more switches as well. PM either of us."

Chevrofreak, AvroArrow, and others, as far as resistance selection, here's what I've found...

*Q3 with STOCK CIRCUIT on PRIMARY 123 cell: 5 ohms*
*Q3 with DORCY 1AAA CIRCUIT on PRIMARY 123 cell: 10 ohms*

As far as rechargeable R123 Li-ion cells, I'm not exactly sure what to tell you as I haven't done that many mods optimized for the rechargeable cells. I'd start with the values given above, and tweak things from there. One suggestion, though... choose a value that makes the low beam a little brighter than what you want on a fresh cell, because it'll get dimmer when the cell is nearly depleted. If you start high, hopefully you'll end up pretty much where you wanted to be in terms of brightness!

Also, for maybe $6 you can buy big bag of assorted resistors from Radio Shack. If you open the Q3 tailcap and connect the bottom of the battery to some exposed metal of the battery tube using a resistor, that'll show you what a low beam would look like with that resistance. In this way you could choose EXACTLY the brightness you wanted as a low beam. Once you know the proper resistance, all you need to do is solder it to the board.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

NetMage, I have no idea what a #10 O-ring even is! I just go to the local hardware store with a Q3 and visually select the best choice. Is there a guide somewhere that explains what #10 and these other codes officially mean?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

*One Forgotten Tip!* Sometimes I gently sand the corners of the replacement switch down just a bit... this makes it fit into the tailcap tube far easier! Another CPFer PM'd me a couple weeks back to mention that he had done the same thing! So if you have difficulty getting things back together, that might be worth trying. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## chimo (May 16, 2005)

I just did this mod with my Q3. Stock circuit with a TW0J. I used two 10 ohm surface mount resistors in parallel. I didn't have to cut the retaining ring. I dremelled the switch legs to make them through hole. 

My battery current readings were:
Low 290 mA
High 740 mA

The battery wasn't fresh (2.95V resting).

A nice and simple mod.

Paul


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## goldserve (May 16, 2005)

chimo: You are lucky to have a dremel. I cut the leads but still is a very clean mod with SMT resistors =D


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## milkyspit (May 17, 2005)

A Dremel is your friend... highly recommended for all modders, and even would-be modders... heck, ANY flashaholic! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif

Just be careful... it's easy to become a Dremelholic, too, and the company sells an infinite number of tips and attachments to feed your habit! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

I just PM'd somebody with a few extra tips on installing the "pimped-out" switch in the tailcap... thought I'd share with the group...

[ QUOTE ]
*What To Do If The Light Doesn't Work. (Partial Guide.)*

Are you using surface mount resistors? If not, then be VERY careful not to scrape the heck out of the resistor while reassembling the light!

Here are some more little tricks that come to mind...

1. That little bent piece of wire that sticks up from the board is supposed to press against the sidewall of the tailcap. Sometimes it gets bent too far inward or comes loose from its solder blob, and will no longer make contact. Make sure it's soldered firmly to the board, and bend it outward enough to press against the sidewall to fix it.

2. If it makes reassembly easier, you can sand down the corners of the switch a little to make them less "pointy"... that lets the switch drop into the tailcap with very little effort. (But remember what I said in #1 above about that contact wire!)

3. Sometimes I wrap plumber's tape (that white teflon pipe tape from the hardware store) a few times around the switch, resistor and all... everything EXCEPT the contact wire, behind which I tuck the tape so it won't come undone. This gives enough insulation (plus slipperiness to boot) to protect things during reassembly.

4. It's best to test the switch assembly BEFORE popping it back into the tailcap. Use the continuity test function on your DMM.

5. Also check the light itself with the tailcap off, by touching a wire from battery to exposed metal on the battery tube... just to make sure your light didn't somehow die, and you're trying to solve the wrong problem! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

[/ QUOTE ]


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## chimo (May 17, 2005)

Yes, Dremel-type (mine's not actually made by Dremel) tools are like microwave ovens - you don't know how useful they are until you have one. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Some further advice on the mod: 

Ensure you bend the switch arms as close to the switch body as possible. There's not much clearance between the switch and the tailcap housing - inadvertent contact between the switch legs and the case is easy (but undesirable /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif) to achieve. If they contact, the switch shorts out and the light stays on. (ask me how I know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif)

If you use SMT resistors, be careful not to add too much solder. There is a ring at the base of the clear retaining ring that is supposed to rest on the PCB. Ensure that the resistors are flat enough so that they do not become the contact point for the retaining ring. Same for the switch if you use the through-hole method. (the dremel tool comes in handy here).

Paul


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## milkyspit (Aug 9, 2005)

Been quite a while since I posted to this thread, but I've still been modding Q3's! They're just very versatile little platforms for all sorts of mods. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif

Not sure if I mentioned this before and honestly, too tired at the moment to scroll all through the thread to check, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sleepy.gif but the bending of the leads on these replacement switches has always bothered me... they're delicate switches, and though I've only ever destroyed one or two out of the many I've worked with, there IS another way...

*Alternative to Bending the Switch Leads Close to the Body:*

1. Buy some fairly small, bare wire from Radio Shack... I think they sell it as "bus wire" (going from memory, so that might not be the exact name).

2. Remove the stock switch and soak up the solder from the holes with desolder braid... works like a paper towel would on water droplets... get all three holes clear of solder.

3. Run some bus wire through each of the three holes and solder all three in place. The exact length doesn't matter for now... we'll snip off the excess later.

4. ALMOST (as in not quite!) completely remove the three leads from the replacement switch, so just three little stumps of metal remain... just enough to apply a few quick dabs of solder to.

5. Set the replacement switch into position, and solder the three bus wires to the corresponding little metal stubs on the switch. Try to do this quickly so the switch doesn't risk heat-induced damage.

6. Snip off any excess bus wire.

7. (Optional.) Take a little plumber's pipe tape... the white teflon stuff... and wrap it around the bare bus wires a few times as an extra precaution against the wires touching the bare metal inside the tailcap. If you kept things close to the switch, IMHO this step isn't necessary, but it'll give you a bit of additional insurance against shorts.

8. Done! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Hope this helps. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## greenLED (Aug 13, 2005)

You could also use thin teflon-coated wire instead of the Rat-Shack wire. Then you don't have to worry about the wire's jacket melting while soldering, or the wire shorting with something later on. I have some 30 AWG teflon wire available if you'd like (please follow link in sigline, or . *click here*)


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## mudman cj (Apr 22, 2006)

I thought there may be other Q-III owners with different arrangements of circuits and batteries other than stock that would like to know if this mod will work for them. I am running a BBNG at 917mA from a 3.7V LIR123A cell to run a "J" Vf bin LuxIII and have found this mod made a great addition to my EDC light. Because I only had access to some 0.25W resistors, I chose a 22 Ohm resistance in order to stay below the resistor's rated power dissipation levels. On low it dissipates just less than 0.25W with a current draw of 100mA through the switch. The output from the T luminosity binned LED is great for times when 80 lumens seems too bright (too bright???); and is sufficient for many indoor tasks. It is less bright than an RXOH running at 350mA, but not by much.

Tips: 
Be careful with the tail spring. I broke the end off while rotating it using needle nose pliers.

When mounting the new switch take care to center it very well with respect to the board.

I prefer the feel of a switch that is not sunken much beyond what is necessary to provide for tail standing. This requires a thin O-ring, a rubber washer, or an O-ring that has carefully been cut in half with a sharp blade.

If you notice occasional flickering or certain batteries won't work, you may have a problem with anodic contact. A slight amount of solder can be applied to the anode pad of the circuit to form a better contact.

It can be challenging to mount a resistor on the switch side of the board since the new switch tends to cover the resistor circuit board holes. You can solder wires into the holes and run them out under the switch for connecting to the resistor. I used 0.012" silver wire, but not everyone has access to such things, so I would recommend about a 26-30 gauge wire with insulation removed to allow the switch to sit close to the board.


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## mudman cj (Jun 19, 2006)

I now have a supply of the reverse clicky hi-low-off switches for the Q3 & TM-301X-3. I also have some very small (0.126" long, 0.075" wide) resistors rated to 0.5 W with values of 10.7, 22.1, and 30.1 Ohms with 1% variation. I can also provide Teflon-insulated wire in guages of 20, 22, 24, 26 and 28. 

Prices are $5 for one switch or $8 for two, $1 per resistor and $1 for 10 feet of wire (your choice of gauge). Please add $1 for shipping to the US or $3 for international. Send paypal credit card payments to cjmonzyk[at]yahoo.com and add $1 to cover paypal fees. Send paypal cash to cjmonzykcash[at]yahoo.com.


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## jar3ds (Jun 19, 2006)

:rock:


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## winny (Jun 19, 2006)

Did someone here at CPF sell them modded and ready, or am I confusing this with some other flashlight, like some Fenix or so? :thinking:


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## mudman cj (Jul 13, 2006)

winny-I just learned that they can be bought here:
http://www.vehicletech.co.kr/front/php/category.php?cate_no=74

Good luck!


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## milkyspit (Jul 13, 2006)

mudman cj said:


> winny-I just learned that they can be bought here:
> http://www.vehicletech.co.kr/front/php/category.php?cate_no=74
> 
> Good luck!



Mudman, that link didn't seem to show anything... I got the site header and sidebar, but no product! Are you sure it's right? Or maybe I'm just having a vegetable moment! oo:

BTW, I do still mod the tailswitches for folks that don't want to undertake it themselves... and have a handful of the low-off-high-off tailswitches left in the parts box.


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## mudman cj (Jul 14, 2006)

Milkyspit-I know what you mean. I found this from another thread where the person that provided the link stated that this product was available there, and that the seller can communicate well in english. I for one am unable to navigate the site or confirm that this product really is available there, but I thought someone might be able to benefit from it. 

I suppose if someone wanted a pre-modded on1-on2-off tailswitch, I could provide you with the switch and you could do the rest.


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## winny (Jul 14, 2006)

mudman cj,

Thanks to CPFer mosport, my Q-III is now two stage modded. Not that I know why I should need it, I can at least say it's modded now..


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## carbine15 (Jul 25, 2006)

I modded my L2p with this switch. It is easily 5mm taller than the stock switch so there was a lot of modification that went on to see that it fit. Not easy at all but well worth it. 
here is a video of my two stage L2P cr123 switch.

22.1 ohms is too much resistance for it to light up with one AA NIMH or alkaline battery but it works great on 2 batteries or one cr123 or cr2. I'd recomend lower resistance for more flexablility with other battery types.

From the looks of it the QIII stock switch is a three way that was modded for single operation. Crack it open and you might find the two way is moddable on the stock switch. I could be wrong.


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## EvilLithiumMan (Aug 26, 2006)

(milkyspit - I snagged one of your pics for this reply. If that's a problem, I'll delete it)

I bought a QIII switch kit from another CPF'er, and then following this thread attempted to "roll my own." As usual, it takes me two or three tries to get it done right. My first attempt resulted in three perfectly matched "Off" settings. Not what I was looking for. After staring at this thread and my "handywork" a dozen times, I realized I had destroyed the spring clip used to connect the common pole of the switch to the tailcap. Somehow I thought it was directly connected to the original switch and was to be removed. Sloppy, sloppy, sloppy.







After trying a couple of different materials, I finally found a replacement. As far as the resistor goes, mine was physically small enough to lay flush on the PCB and not require shrink sleeving. It works great. Having a second, lower but longer running illumination level adds a lot to a light's functionality, as far as I'm concerned.






By the way, my completed assembly was hardly a millimeter taller than the standard. I skipped slicing up the clear threaded spring retaining ring with a Dremel tool. Just another opportunity for me to turn a working light into scrap 

ELM


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## bombelman (Aug 26, 2006)

Nice mod !!


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## milkyspit (Aug 26, 2006)

*ELM, *no problem borrowing the photo... you put it to good use! :thumbsup:

Sometimes it seems I'm the only person on Earth who actually slices that threaded retaining ring... for me they ALWAYS need slicing, as not doing so causes the ring to scrape against the bottom of the 123 cell. Should note that I always recess the rubber tailswitch boot as part of this mod, so maybe that's the reason. But as long as the mod works out, slice or don't slice as you see fit!

BTW, looks like you did some nice work there! 




EvilLithiumMan said:


> (milkyspit - I snagged one of your pics for this reply. If that's a problem, I'll delete it)
> 
> I bought a QIII switch kit from another CPF'er, and then following this thread attempted to "roll my own." As usual, it takes me two or three tries to get it done right. My first attempt resulted in three perfectly matched "Off" settings. Not what I was looking for. After staring at this thread and my "handywork" a dozen times, I realized I had destroyed the spring clip used to connect the common pole of the switch to the tailcap. Somehow I thought it was directly connected to the original switch and was to be removed. Sloppy, sloppy, sloppy.
> 
> ...


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## EvilLithiumMan (Aug 26, 2006)

OK - after taking a nap and reviewing everything, I took a second look at the spacing of the final assembly. Milkyspit is absolutely correct - retaining ring is actullay contacting the base of the CR123. Although it appears to work O.K. without cutting it down, I don't like it. No doubt about it - milkyspit knows his mods!


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## Fenris (Nov 5, 2006)

mudman cj said:


> Milkyspit-I know what you mean. I found this from another thread where the person that provided the link stated that this product was available there, and that the seller can communicate well in english. I for one am unable to navigate the site or confirm that this product really is available there, but I thought someone might be able to benefit from it.
> 
> I suppose if someone wanted a pre-modded on1-on2-off tailswitch, I could provide you with the switch and you could do the rest.




I know this thread is alittle old, but here is the page you were trying to find.


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