# The SureFire P2X-B "Fury" 500lu flashlight thread



## jalcon

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I really had no idea to be honest, how would I?

Either way, even if it is < 10,000, does not make it any better does it?

Should be getting my Fury in the mail today finally hopefully its flawless :naughty:



naked2 said:


> You think they've already sold at least 200,000 Furys? I'd be surprised if someone confirmed they've sold tens of thousands (size 15's?).


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## jalcon

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I really had no idea, after all, why would I 

Either way, even if the number is <10k, that doesn't make it any better.

Should be getting my Fury in the mail today, hopefully it is flawless :naughty:



naked2 said:


> You think they've already sold at least 200,000 Furys? I'd be surprised if someone confirmed they've sold tens of thousands (size 15's?).


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## jalcon

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I really had no idea, after all, how would I? 
Even if the number is <10k, that doesn't make it any better. 
I should be getting my Fury in the mail today, hopefuly it's flawless :naughty:


naked2 said:


> You think they've already sold at least 200,000 Furys? I'd be surprised if someone confirmed they've sold tens of thousands (size 15's?).


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## jalcon

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I really had no idea how many were produced, after all, how would I? 
Even if the number is <10k, that doesn't make it any better. 
I should be getting my Fury in the mail today, hopefuly it's flawless :naughty:


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## Robert_M

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Here's an interesting review of the Fury. It also discusses the new rechargeable batteries that SureFire will be selling.

http://www.led-resource.com/2012/03/surefire-p2x-fury-review/


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## Guybling

OK... Time to stop lurking and start posting.... I overheard a salesman discussing a new Surefire offering. The Fury is suposed to throw five hundred lumens and cost around $160. Has anyone else heard of this? Thanks.


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## CarpentryHero

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Sounds like a good deal for a Surefire.


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## carrot

*Re: Surefire Fury*

If that kind of lumens goes behind Surefire's usual TIR lens... whoa.


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

*Re: Surefire Fury*



> The Fury is suposed to throw five hundred lumens and cost around $160.



Current SF offerings have been trending more toward 160 lumens and cost around $500.

Hope your rumour is correct and hope we see it sometime in the next five years!

Will it be part of the low end line like the 6PX/G2X?

Al knows but he's not talking...


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## Kestrel

*Re: Surefire Fury*



Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Current SF offerings have been trending more toward 160 lumens and cost around $500.


LOL, we used to have 'SureFire Lumens', now we have 'SureFire Inflection Points' 



Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Al knows but he's not talking...


Sure beats having Al _not_ know but talking anyway. :devil:


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## nbp

*Re: Surefire Fury*

 

I like the current Surefire output vs. price graph idea. Incredibly nerdy, but hey, that's why we're here.  Quick way to analyze value. I think we've coined a new unit of measurement too: Lumen/dollars. 


"If you look at this simple graph of current lumen/dollar values for our lineup of products, you can clearly see an inverse relationship between price and projected luminous flux, causing what we in the sales department call a downward sloping trendline ....." *trails off*


Relax people, I like SF. :nana:


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## Dr. Strangelove

*Re: Surefire Fury*

It's not in their 2011 catalog. The new (and yet to be released) UNR Commander and UAR Aviator are both listed as 500 lumens, but I seriously doubt that they will be $160. Was this salesman from SureFire? I wouldn't count on this just yet...


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## Sgt. LED

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Perhaps $160 was dealer cost not what we would be paying?


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## Imon

*Re: Surefire Fury*

I'm surprised this isn't creating more of a firestorm here on CPF.
I have to admit I'm skeptical but I'll still maintain a detached interest to this thread.

Any more information you can give us Guy?


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## Illum

*Re: Surefire Fury*



Imon said:


> I'm surprised this isn't creating more of a firestorm here on CPF.
> I have to admit I'm skeptical but I'll still maintain a detached interest to this thread.
> 
> Any more information you can give us Guy?



Last time someone met someone who spoke of a HID retrofit for the M6 before the M3TL... etc lights came about did create a firestorm, but nothing did come of it and I think some learned to be skeptical


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## Vesper

*Re: Surefire Fury*

FURY - trademarked by Surefire on Sept 1st:

http://www.trademarkia.com/fury-85412889.html


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## Guybling

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Two guys that I believe were manufacturers reps were talking, one had a paper in his hand he was showing enthusiastically. "Surefire" caught my ear. The other details came along, then they looked at me, clammed up and moved elsewhere to talk. Time will tell. Sorry if this is just noise, but it sounded good to me!


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## skyfire

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Surefire Fury? i like the sound of that..
with a name like that, one would expect 500 lumens! :devil:


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## NightKids

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Pretty hard to find a Surefire with that amount of output for $160!


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## NoFair

*Re: Surefire Fury*

It's out: http://www.batteryjunction.com/sf-p2x-b-bk.html

:thumbsup:


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## NightKids

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Wow no way!! What a bargain!! Wonder what LED it uses! From a measly 15 lumens to bang!! 500 Surefire lumens!

That will sure wake u up at night!!


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## Guybling

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Well how about that! Now how do I rationalize another Surefire purchase to my Wife?


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## purelite

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Thats funny, the sales guys stop talking and move away. Like its secret squirrel espionage stuff. 

I have to say its great that Surefire is definitley listening and watching the industry . This shows they want to have some cutting edge lights in the output department and stay current. But that is one ugly light. I really dont like the direction SF is going with the physical appearance of their civilian lights. They re definitley going for the toned down non threatening streamlined look. Just not my taste

and did you notice, a POLYcarbonate window!??? Plastic?????? On a Surefire?


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## Dr. Strangelove

*Re: Surefire Fury*



NoFair said:


> It's out: http://www.batteryjunction.com/sf-p2x-b-bk.html
> 
> :thumbsup:




Good heavens! It's true! Sorry to have doubted you Guybling! Nice find NoFair. Must have just been put up on their site. I was looking at SureFire stuff there last week and didn't see it. Looks like it will be a thrower, I'm pre-ordering!


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## mmace1

*Re: Surefire Fury*



purelite said:


> and did you notice, a POLYcarbonate window!??? Plastic?????? On a Surefire?



:duh2:

I can now confirm how much of a flashlight dork I am, I really did tilt my head a bit & think "wtf...". Good catch. 

The whole point (IMO) of Surefire that was aside from slow production cycles in recent years (which is a biggie - also in IMO), that said still...no corners were cut. I hope the premium-reliability construction is still there...?


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## Meganoggin

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Interesting that Surefire managed to keep this one pretty quiet. I'm looking forward to reviews....


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## FPSRelic

*Re: Surefire Fury*



purelite said:


> Thats funny, the sales guys stop talking and move away. Like its secret squirrel espionage stuff.
> 
> I have to say its great that Surefire is definitley listening and watching the industry . This shows they want to have some cutting edge lights in the output department and stay current. But that is one ugly light. I really dont like the direction SF is going with the physical appearance of their civilian lights. They re definitley going for the toned down non threatening streamlined look. Just not my taste
> 
> and did you notice, a POLYcarbonate window!??? Plastic?????? On a Surefire?



My understanding is that the g2x/6px series lights all use polycarbonate lenses. 

I remember watching a youtube video of Surefire at a show introducing the new g2x/6px range of lights. He said that they were a result of Surefire listening to it's customers, who were after better priced light with Surefire's reliability. I guess the tradeoff for getting the prices down is to use cheaper materials.


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## mmace1

*Re: Surefire Fury*



FPSRelic said:


> I guess the tradeoff for getting the prices down is to use cheaper materials.



Yeah...the bulk price for cut glass in 1.3" diameter circles is through the roof! It's like gold Jerry, gold! $100 right there!

Really though...that seems awfully forgiving. There are well under $50 lights with glass lenses. Are they the same as Surefires - no. But do they make one legitimately question the move to save (in bulk...$2/order $10 max? ) in a $150+ light...I just really can't imagine the savings being _that_ big compared to the overall price. Seems like a cheap move to save a bit & capitalize on either ignorance or excessive brand equity...

I don't know but - this is kinda freaking me out. Surefire has gotten behind on emitters compared to 5 years ago but...to get behind on quality for a component? That's kinda weird sounding.


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## 2000xlt

*Re: Surefire Fury*

now if that had the optics of E1B or E2dL for example i'd be on that like flies on you know what


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## angelofwar

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Get one before the price goes up, ala KX4's, G2X, 6PX...

Wonder when we'll see one with a combat grip? Looks like the Stratum, part deuce...


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## Helmut.G

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Funny, after I read the first few posts I thought "500 lumens from surefire for less than 200$, I bet if that's true they simply put an XM-L into a 6PX".
Looks like I was right.

If these actually ship in the near future and live up to the claims, surefire will finally offer a light in roughly the same lumens/dollar range as many other brands.
Interesting development for sure!


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## Tana

*Re: Surefire Fury*

I wasn't that much impressed with X series (heard too many issues with them to bite the bullet and buy one)... but THIS I'm getting...


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## pjandyho

*Re: Surefire Fury*



Meganoggin said:


> Interesting that Surefire managed to keep this one pretty quiet. I'm looking forward to reviews....


From what I see, they did not really keep this quiet because it wasn't in their original product design plans. It seems to me that they are merely putting this out in a hurry by exploiting the success of the 6PX Pro and re-engineering the head a little to fit an XM-L in there. How else could they achieve 500 lumens without overdriving the LED if it is not XM-L they are using? It seems more like it was put together based on some slight amendments in the blueprint of the 6PX Pro. I hope I am wrong though, but I think Surefire is under a lot of pressure from competing manufacturers putting out lights in the hundreds of lumen range. It's a do or die situation they are in.


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## WDR65

*Re: Surefire Fury*

All I can say is "wow!" I guess I expected something like this, but not in this model and style. I expected something a bit more like the L5 or L6. Very interesting.


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## kelmo

*Re: Surefire Fury*

WOW!

This kind of makes you forget about the M6!


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

*Re: Surefire Fury*



> Will it be part of the low end line like the 6PX/G2X?



Looks like my question is answered in the Battery Junction listing:



> SureFire’s Fury is a more powerful, slightly larger version of our best-selling dual-output 6PX Pro.



And:



> *Pre-order today! Expected mid-late December!*



Will SF deliver on time for a change? Or, is this yet another clever ruse to spur market demand?:huh:

Will the quoted price be 'introductory' as with the 6PX/G2X?

AOW has the same suspicion:



> Get one before the price goes up, ala KX4's, G2X, 6PX...





> I hope I am wrong though, but I think Surefire is under a lot of pressure from competing manufacturers putting out lights in the hundreds of lumen range. It's a do or die situation they are in.



It's considered heresy in some quarters but I've made similar observations that SF is trying to reinvent the product line to respond to fast moving LED technology, rising costs of onshore production and cutbacks in government spending.

Anyway, I've locked my wallet in a drawer upstairs and hidden my PayPal six digit token.


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## Helmut.G

*Re: Surefire Fury*



kelmo said:


> WOW!
> 
> This kind of makes you forget about the M6!


Not me, I'm still dreaming of owning a M6. It's a classic and it's super-cool. The Fury is just another 2xCR123 Tactical light.


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## Imon

*Re: Surefire Fury*



NoFair said:


> It's out: http://www.batteryjunction.com/sf-p2x-b-bk.html
> 
> :thumbsup:



Interesting. As Helmut mentioned it does look like a 6PX with a larger head with probably an XM-L stuck inside. 
I think this is a positive development, SF has stuck the XR-E behind a TIR lens on so many of their models but somehow I have doubts this flashlight uses TIR.

Which could be good or bad. I know TIR is pretty polarizing on CPF.


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## Helmut.G

*Re: Surefire Fury*



Imon said:


> Interesting. As Helmut mentioned it does look like a 6PX with a larger head with probably an XM-L stuck inside.
> I think this is a positive development, SF has stuck the XR-E behind a TIR lens on so many of their model but somehow I have doubts this flashlight uses TIR.
> 
> Which could be good or bad. I know TIR is pretty polarizing on CPF.


The description says it is a reflector.


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## Imon

*Re: Surefire Fury*



Helmut.G said:


> The description says it is a reflector.



I know, I was hoping against hope. Personally I like the TIR lens and SF was able to create a jumbo-sized one for the M3LT so... 

Maybe some other time.


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## Helmut.G

*Re: Surefire Fury*



Imon said:


> I know, I was hoping against hope. Personally I like the TIR lens and SF was able to create a jumbo-sized one for the M3LT so...
> 
> Maybe some other time.


A custom high-quality lens like in the M3LT is probably too expensive for this kind of "budget" light.


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## Size15's

I've updated the thread title to better describe the topic


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## monkeyboy

AHAHAHAHAHAH!!!! it has a name now. 

I'm not a fan of the multi click type interface though. I hope they do a single mode version like the 6PX tactical/pro or whatever it's called.


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## herosemblem

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Oh my god! The BatteryJunction description of the light mentions this amazing new innovation: "an orientation-independent tailcap switch". This is brilliant, and has never been seen before in any other flashlight. 
/sarcasm

Just goes to show you how funny marketing speak can be .
Good thing this flashlight has this innovative new "orientation-independent tailcap" feature. This feature sealed the deal for me!


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## Illum

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Please don't start another LED versus incandescent comparison again :tired:
Its not on their website either... anyone notice that?

Alot chunkier looking than the 6PX
Fury: 







6PX:


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## csshih

*Re: Surefire Fury*

looks like an XM-L light with an OP reflector 

Craig


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## monkeyboy

*Re: Surefire Fury*

The head looks very similar to the M500L that was in their 2011 catalog.


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## yowzer

*Re: Surefire Fury*

BJ lists it as 'Delivery in 6-8 weeks.' In Surefire weeks, it could be mid 2012 before anybody has one in their hands.


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## CarpentryHero

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Darn, probably won't let these cross the borders to Canada


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## Dr. Strangelove

*Re: Surefire Fury*



Illum said:


> Alot chunkier looking than the 6PX
> Fury:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6PX:



Yes, it is. My guess is that the body and tailcap are probably the same as the 6PX with a new head. It also appears that the bezel ring might be made of aluminum, which I like. I'd prefer a glass lens to a polycarbonate, but that's not a deal killer. Other well respected flashlights such as Malkoff and NovaTac use plastic lenses. I won't speculate further, I'll wait to see it before drawing any conclusions. This is, however, a very interesting and unexpected development from SureFire, I'm definitely going to get one!


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## purelite

*Re: Surefire Fury*

why would you want the bezel ring aluminum?

The only extra beefiness I see is in the head where they carried forward material and put some scallops on the head. the body and tail are identical


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## csshih

*Re: Surefire Fury*

hahahahah!

while browsing this thread again.. '04 thread.







then 3rd post in that thread:








sorry, I had to.

Craig


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## enomosiki

*Re: Surefire Fury*



Illum said:


> Please don't start another LED versus incandescent comparison again :tired:
> Its not on their website either... anyone notice that?
> 
> Alot chunkier looking than the 6PX
> Fury:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6PX:




Not by much.

FuryBezel Diameter: 1.375"
Length: 5.4"

G2X
Bezel Diameter: 1.25"
Length: 5.2"

I just wish that Surefire would update the L1 line.


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## Dr. Strangelove

*Re: Surefire Fury*



purelite said:


> why would you want the bezel ring aluminum?
> 
> The only extra beefiness I see is in the head where they carried forward material and put some scallops on the head. the body and tail are identical



The 6PX (and G2X) have plastic bezel rings. Actually, I'd prefer it to be stainless to protect the head better if it's dropped on the bezel.


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## 2000xlt

*Re: Surefire Fury*

the thing that makes the 500 lumens better is that its regulated!!


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## coctailer

*Re: Surefire Fury*

I just got my e-mail from Surefire to do my inventory pre-orders.
They estimate the delivery will begin mid-December.


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## jonesy

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Shame it doesn't have the same UI as the LX2. A "low then click to high" UI is not very tactical. Looks like I'll keep using my MD2 for pistol usage. It's the same reason my E1B sits on a shelf. Oh well. They'll get it right one of these days...


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

*Re: Surefire Fury*



> A "low then click to high" UI is not very tactical. Looks like I'll keep using my MD2 for pistol usage. It's the same reason my E1B sits on a shelf.



Isn't the E1B "high, click to low" for tactical reasons?


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## jonesy

*Re: Surefire Fury*



Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Isn't the E1B "high, click to low" for tactical reasons?



Yes, it is. Of course, they bill it as a backup, so it's probably not destined to be the only light you should have on you. However, if one wants to pack light (bad pun, haha) it does have tactical aspirations but seems to fall a bit short. Such is life. 

But enough about that. Back on topic, what's the target market for this? I like the style of it! I recall seeing somewhere on the HDS lights that the polycarbonate lenses are actually tougher than glass ones.


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## Size15's

*Re: Surefire Fury*



jonesy said:


> I recall seeing somewhere on the HDS lights that the polycarbonate lenses are actually tougher than glass ones.


The main reason SureFire ever went from Lexan to tempered glass is because the window was susceptible to 'melting' damage from the high temperatures generated from the high-output incandescents. Given this isn't an issue with LEDs the reasons not to use polycarbonate are less clear cut.


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## Dr. Strangelove

*Re: Surefire Fury*



Size15's said:


> The main reason SureFire ever went from Lexan to tempered glass is because the window was susceptible to 'melting' damage from the high temperatures generated from the high-output incandescents. Given this isn't an issue with LEDs the reasons not to use polycarbonate are less clear cut.



Your'e right, polycarbonate is less likely to break than glass so it is superior in that regard. And SureFire glass is 4-5mm thick, my guess is for strength (I'm talking about the pyrex lenses, not TIR optics). But the polycarbonate lens used in the 6PX and G2X scratches very easily. I scratched one of mine badly when I wasn't thinking and cleaned it with a paper towel. Won't do that again...


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## kyhunter1

A 500 lumen stock Surefire thrower for under $200, Im in!


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## jh333233

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Clicky UI...
IMO 15/500 lm should be used 2 stage twisties, and why the heck lexan lens?! Pyrex looks like tougher!
**Pre-order and expected in mid Dec** <-- Even the old cat LX1 isnt out


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## Size15's

*Re: Surefire Fury*



jh333233 said:


> Clicky UI...
> IMO 15/500 lm should be used 2 stage twisties, and why the heck lexan lens?! Pyrex looks like tougher!
> **Pre-order and expected in mid Dec** <-- Even the old cat LX1 isnt out


By using existing current model X-type handhelds and adapting the bezel it looks like SureFire are able to bring it to market far more quickly compared to modifying any of the two-stage platforms.

The LX1 is shelved with effectively no hope of production. Has been so for ages


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## Federal LG

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Surefire kept secret about this new "Fury" and it even didn´t appear in their last catalog, and here it is: a brand new Surefire model...

That´s why I still believe in the LX1!

Maybe I´ll change my signature: "I still believe in SF LX1!!"

Edit: Ops... I read now about Al´s statement about LX1... Well, I still have hope. Or faith. Something like that...


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## DM51

*Re: Surefire Fury*



Federal LG said:


> Surefire kept secret about this new "Fury" and it even didn´t appear in their last catalog, and here it is: a brand new Surefire model...


That is an improvement on previous occasions when they have announced new products and later cancelled them.


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## Federal LG

*Re: Surefire Fury*



DM51 said:


> That is an improvement on previous occasions when they have announced new products and later cancelled them.



True.

Well, maybe they are unpredictable.


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## Kif

*Re: Surefire Fury*

500 Surefire lumens on 2 cell light
:devil:


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## BIGLOU

*Re: Surefire Fury*

OMG I was OK with the lights that I have and now this. I'm going to have to order me one. My next SF was going to be the Lawman if it ever comes out. 

It definately looks like the Stratum and the G2D-S-BK


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## TyJo

*Re: Surefire Fury*

I want to compare this to other recent offerings from other manufacturers but I don't feel it's appropriate based on the traditional Surefire target consumer... but... If Surefire would get an IPX8 water resistant rating (which they probably could do easily) and allow some 18650s they would probably snag a huge market segment with this light.


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## scot

*Re: Surefire Fury*

I'm wondering about it's compatibility with RCR123, 17670, or 18650's. Would really be nice if it were to produce the same output no matter what cells are used......
Kinda like the Quark X123x2, same outputs regardless of running on one cel or two. That's a big deal!!!!
Most of my Surefire's produce less lumens when run on a single LI ion vs two 123's. 
I guess we'll see when they finally arrive.


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## purelite

*Re: Surefire Fury*

hey BigLou, I want that light!!


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## jh333233

*Re: Surefire Fury*



TyJo said:


> I want to compare this to other recent offerings from other manufacturers but I don't feel it's appropriate based on the traditional Surefire target consumer... but... If Surefire would get an IPX8 water resistant rating (which they probably could do easily) and allow some 18650s they would probably snag a huge market segment with this light.


Impossible for 18650,
SF intended to let people using CR123a lithium only
IPX8, well actually the lights are capable of it but due to surefire's warranty policy, it would be an expensive bill for them to pay for water-damage


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## Federal LG

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Surefire Lawman?

What? Where? When??


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## 2000xlt

*Re: Surefire Fury*

LA policegear


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## steveG

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Oh man. I've really been wanting a "wow" light for a while now. I also wanted to buy something made in the U.S. At a $155, this Surefire will be hard to resist! I can't wait to see reviews and beam shots!


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## ganymede

*Re: Surefire Fury*

IIRC, Lawman is a rechargeable model.


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## Schuey2002

*Re: Surefire Fury*

I think I might have to get one of these...


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## FlashSpyJ

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Woh! I think Im starting to like SF again! 

One Q though...Can you put the the Fury head, or 6PX, on a G2X body??


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## jh333233

*Re: Surefire Fury*



FlashSpyJ said:


> Woh! I think Im starting to like SF again!
> 
> One Q though...Can you put the the Fury head, or 6PX, on a G2X body??


Isnt likely to
6PX is a one-pieced body
And Fury too


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## FlashSpyJ

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Ah! I see... Haven't handled any of the new SF lights.

Thanks!


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## carrot

*Re: Surefire Fury*

The 6PX is not a one piece body. The body separates from the head and tail cap like all the other SF lights. It is not meant to, however.


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## Size15's

*Re: Surefire Fury*

SureFire's latest line of LED flashlights, lets call them X-type LED flashlights, have bezels that are 'glued' to the bodies. The bezel is not designed nor intended to be removed by the user. Doing so likely voids the lifetime warranty.
Batteries are replaced by unscrewing the TailCap.


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## Tulku

I like the look of this one - does anyone know if this has a p60 size lamp? (will I be able to fit a Malcoff in there?)


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## Norm

:welcome:



Tulku said:


> I like the look of this one - does anyone know if this has a p60 size lamp? (will I be able to fit a Malcoff in there?)


Did you read Size 15's post immediately above your post?
Norm


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## Tulku

Norm said:


> :welcome:
> 
> 
> Did you read Size 15's post immediately above your post?
> Norm



Thanks Norm,

I see that he is implying separating glued parts would void Surefire's warranty -I'm wondering what size the lamp is and if it is a modular assembly ... (More specifically, can I put an M61 in there)

Am I in the wrong place to ask this type of question?


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## Size15's

Perhaps the most important change SureFire has made with their latest line of LED flashlights, lets call them X-type LED flashlights, is to do away with the removable "Lamp Assembly" and have the LED mounted directly into the bezel. 
This means the bezel does not have to be removable [because there are no user-replaceable components inside] and is therefore 'glued' to the body. 
This means the bezel threads can be shorter as the joint/seal doesn't have to cope with a lifetime of users. The overall length of the flashlight can therefore reduce.

More importantly, the LED and electronics inside the bezel are installed directly to metal that is part of the bezel allowing heat to transfer directly to the whole bezel. LEDs can be driven harder for longer because the heat they generate is more effectively managed and the lifespan of the LED is maintained.

Al


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## neal71

edited to remove content we have a MarketPlace for.


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## dano

Tulku said:


> Thanks Norm,
> 
> I see that he is implying separating glued parts would void Surefire's warranty -I'm wondering what size the lamp is and if it is a modular assembly ... (More specifically, can I put an M61 in there)
> 
> Am I in the wrong place to ask this type of question?



Why would you? When there's numerous hosts available for P60 style drop-ins?


----------



## Tommygun45

What's the deal with the tip of that bezel? It looks like it is unscrewable. Also I noticed the 5.2" length as compared to the 5.4" of the 6PX. Do you guys think this is some way of fixing the bump mode changing issue? Compress the batteries a bit more to give them less room to wiggle? I had a 6PX Pro I had to sell because I just couldn't get over that. Now if they fixed it, doubled the output, and kept it about the same size, well now we're talking.


----------



## JohnnyLunar

Tommygun45 said:


> What's the deal with the tip of that bezel? It looks like it is unscrewable. Also I noticed the 5.2" length as compared to the 5.4" of the 6PX. Do you guys think this is some way of fixing the bump mode changing issue? Compress the batteries a bit more to give them less room to wiggle? I had a 6PX Pro I had to sell because I just couldn't get over that. Now if they fixed it, doubled the output, and kept it about the same size, well now we're talking.



Actually, Surefire has fixed the mode bump issue on the 6PX/G2X line. I know because I had one of the original faulty G2X Pro models, sent it in to Surefire, and they sent me a brand new replacement G2X Pro that works flawlessly. Others who have bought 6PX/G2X lights recently, seem to also have no issues. It was something that was going on with early models (the ones with the "introductory prices"), but seems to have been completely fixed in recent models.


----------



## Tommygun45

Good to know. Hadn't heard that but that is a good sign.



JohnnyLunar said:


> Actually, Surefire has fixed the mode bump issue on the 6PX/G2X line. I know because I had one of the original faulty G2X Pro models, sent it in to Surefire, and they sent me a brand new replacement G2X Pro that works flawlessly. Others who have bought 6PX/G2X lights recently, seem to also have no issues. It was something that was going on with early models (the ones with the "introductory prices"), but seems to have been completely fixed in recent models.


----------



## hiluxxulih

Well I bought a Fury on the bay , now the wait starts , I think I will downsize my collection , goodbye Surefire M6 and the Olights .


----------



## Quiksilver

Looks neat.

I was unimpressed with my 6PX Pro. Its an okay light, but if it gets bumped it switches from low<-->high. Also the plastic lens was kind of a bummer. I mean, IMO that is not a corner that should be cut. I'd rather pay $125 for a light with a glass lens, than $115 for a light with a plastic lens.

I am also unimpressed by the smooth surface. I'd much rather have a textile surface than a smooth "futuristic" non-practical surface.

Apparently the Fury will cost approx. $190 to customers in my location, which is too much for a light in this form-factor. It's competing with my upgraded 6P, and it comes up lacking. That plastic lens and non-textile body really do knock it down a couple pegs. Looks like they are keeping the same X-class tailswitch, which as I said above, has its problems with unwanted mode-switching. 

To throw a bone to SureFire, I had an opportunity to get my hands on a E1B the other day. Man is it a beautiful, compact and comfortable little light. Dang if I don't want to fork out for one. The desire is irrational as I have 'better' lights in its size/weight class, but again dang if it isn't a nice little unit.


----------



## Craig K

I would buy this light in a flash but I am not going to because I know how easily the plastic lens gets all scratched up, what was Surefire thinking putting these easy scratch plastic lens in there new lights, I won't go near them because of the lens, even just wiping the lens with a soft cloth leaves scratches on it.

I bet a lot of people if they buy this light and it has the plastic lens they will be disappointed because it just scratches up to easy.


----------



## DM51

A few scratches on the lens won't make any perceptible difference in the performance of the light. Plastic/lexan has the advantage of being break-proof, which in many real-world circumstances is a pretty big point in its favor.


----------



## pjandyho

I don't know how some scratches got on my 6PX Pro. They do leave some unwanted shadows on the spill beam. That said, it doesn't really bother me much in real world use. I guess it depends on individual, whether he thinks break proof is more important than scratch proof.


----------



## Kestrel

Craig K said:


> [...] scratched [...] scratch [...] scratches
> ... it has the plastic lens they will be disappointed because it just scratches up to easy.


I confess that I am most interested in your last sentence - since you are stating that the lens on the SF P2X-B scratches up too easily, that means that you have experienced this with the light, am I correct? :ironic:

BTW I've been using an older lexan-lens SF C2 modestly over the past ~18 months and it doesn't have a single scratch on it yet. :shrug:
Since I own it & use it, I do feel as though I can comment on it to a certain degree.

Edit: Not trying to go OT, just commenting on the comparable Lexan lens in my old C2.


----------



## RobertM

So...has anyone received his or her Fury yet? I saw that one particular dealer over on the Marketplace said that shipping should have started on Tues (Dec 13). Any comments from anyone that has one in his or her hands?


----------



## Quiksilver

Kestrel said:


> BTW I've been using an older lexan-lens SF C2 modestly over the past ~18 months and it doesn't have a single scratch on it yet. :shrug:



I've been using my 6PX Pro since May, and the lens has a good number of scratches including one serious one. Go figure.  

I don't know what you use your light for, or what the context definition of 'modestly' means. 

Two nights ago I went for a 30 minute run on the beach, and afterward practiced lighting a fire with a firesteel on the beach ... Used the 6PX Pro for everything. Its got a couple new scratches from perching it on sand/pebbles to use it. I'd call that modest use (im not combat MOS in central Asia, and its doesnt live on the nightstand).


----------



## SMGUNSHOP

hello we just received our first 6 of these and I am very impressed with the latest from SUREFIRE.
the light is extremely bright towards the center and fades away towards the outer edges.
the 15 lumen setting is a great idea. :thumbsup:


----------



## w00tb0t

I just picked mine up this morning from a Surefire dealer and have been playing with it all day.

First impressions are great, its 5.4" and doesn't have a problem with bump changing. The light itself is sturdy feeling, with nothing rattling about.

The reflector is a light orange peel and it gets warm rather quickly.

At 5' on High (500 lumens) I get a nice 1.5' bright spot and a spread of about 10' 
This light floods a room or a field nicely. I have not gone out and played with its throw to much, but it can hit trees about 200 yards off noticeably at dusk

Although the head/lens does look like it can be unscrewed it is glued on.

Ill post some beam shots tomorrow when I have had some more time to play with the light.


----------



## Craig K

Kestrel said:


> I confess that I am most interested in your last sentence - since you are stating that the lens on the SF P2X-B scratches up too easily, that means that you have experienced this with the light, am I correct? :ironic:
> 
> BTW I've been using an older lexan-lens SF C2 modestly over the past ~18 months and it doesn't have a single scratch on it yet. :shrug:
> Since I own it & use it, I do feel as though I can comment on it to a certain degree.
> 
> Edit: Not trying to go OT, just commenting on the comparable Lexan lens in my old C2.



Ive owned the new Surefire Z2X CombatLight and after just 4 weeks of normal use I noticed a couple of small scratches on the lens I then wiped the lens with a clean soft cloth and after I wiped it the lens got scratched up even more just from a soft cloth.

The SF P2X-B is using the same plastic lens as the Z2X uses,.... so I have experienced this lens.


----------



## jh333233

Lets talk about the output
500 surefire lm is exciting
but if it throws 15000lux or more, it would be even more fascinating


----------



## SunStar

For those that prefer the glass lens / window, have we identified an aftermarket option already available that can replace the OEM plastic?





Craig K said:


> Ive owned the new Surefire Z2X CombatLight and after just 4 weeks of normal use I noticed a couple of small scratches on the lens I then wiped the lens with a clean soft cloth and after I wiped it the lens got scratched up even more just from a soft cloth.
> 
> The SF P2X-B is using the same plastic lens as the Z2X uses,.... so I have experienced this lens.


----------



## RedForest UK

Yes, my G2x also scratched up lightly but very easily from cleaning gently with a cloth. It didn't noticably affect the beam at all, but over time (and surefires are meant to 'last a lifetime') probably would build up and up in serious use until it'll be like a diffuser lense or need replacing.

I am expecting the circuit to be very efficient however, the G2x had the most efficient circuit I've ever experienced.


----------



## flashlight chronic

If you want to avoid fine scratches on polycarbonate lenses, wet the lense w/ water or lense cleaner (if possible). This removes dirt particles or at least breaks it down. I wear prescription safety glasses at work and my eye doctor recommended that I not to wipe my glasses w/ a dry cloth for this reason. They only told me this after my third pair.


----------



## naked2

Damn doctors! 
I have two teardrop E bezels I've replaced with newer hex/Pyrex ones due to such excessive scratching (as a bonus I got anti-rolling for clipless use on the old round bodies); so _for me_, here are the 3 strikes for not buying this:

1. Plastic lens.
2. I _personally_ don't care for lights (or drop-in modules, for that matter!) that require button-presses to change modes.
3. No Lego ability.


----------



## Xacto

naked2 said:


> [...]
> 1. Plastic lens.
> 2. I _personally_ don't care for lights (or drop-in modules, for that matter!) that require button-presses to change modes.
> 3. No Lego ability.



4. no chance to disassemble and replace defective parts without sending it in (read: it is glued together)

Now, today I got my second G2X Tactical. But honestly, for 55 Euro retail it is what I consider a budget light so I can live with those points. Good thing the 6P is still available.

Cheers
Thorsten


----------



## TyJo

I don't consider glue a formidable foe , but a voided warranty...


----------



## ganymede

Can someone please post some actual photos of the light? Thanks!


----------



## naked2

See post #40; or #15 and follow the link.


----------



## RobertM

w00tb0t said:


> I just picked mine up this morning from a Surefire dealer and have been playing with it all day.
> 
> First impressions are great, its 5.4" and doesn't have a problem with bump changing. The light itself is sturdy feeling, with nothing rattling about.
> 
> The reflector is a light orange peel and it gets warm rather quickly.
> 
> At 5' on High (500 lumens) I get a nice 1.5' bright spot and a spread of about 10'
> This light floods a room or a field nicely. I have not gone out and played with its throw to much, but it can hit trees about 200 yards off noticeably at dusk
> 
> Although the head/lens does look like it can be unscrewed it is glued on.
> 
> Ill post some beam shots tomorrow when I have had some more time to play with the light.



How is the beam tint?


----------



## ganymede

naked2 said:


> See post #40; or #15 and follow the link.



Of course! But I am after actual photos of the light taken by user. Not marketing photos, sorry for the confusion.


----------



## w00tb0t

My Fury with authentic battle damage on the tail cap. Dropped it from chest height while running on concrete.


----------



## Tack Driver

Can anybody tell me if the Fury has bare circuitry exposed to the batteries like the G2X/6PX? I would suspect it does.

If it doesn't, I might have to own it.


----------



## Size15's

SureFire uses a conformal coating for its electronics so bare would seem inaccurate.

Your feeling of unease (?) more likely results in your lack of faith in SureFire's ability to engineer a robust reliable battery contact directly onto the PCB without an intermediate assembly between the PCB and the battery. 
The example to support SureFire's method that first comes to mind is the X300 type handgun WeaponLights.


----------



## Tack Driver

I will refer to your knowledge if you tell me that some (obviously clear and invisible) coating will protect circuit boards from the physical damage of recoil against batteries when the light is weapon mounted.

I routinely remove batteries with flattened positive ends from shotgun weaponlights. Suffice it to say, I get a little antsy about the 6Px and G2x when I look down the tube and see what appears to be PCB with no physical barrier between it and the batteries.


----------



## Dr. Strangelove

Size15s may be able to provide more insight, but I recall reading somewhere that the 6PX and G2X are not intended to be used as weapon lights.

Update: Did some more searching, can't find any specific prohibitions or approvals, but many people on the gun forms report using them successfully (but on long rifles, not shotguns).


----------



## Tack Driver

Yeah, they are getting used a lot lately on everything from ARs to shotguns. That doesn't mean it's a good idea. I've learned from experience that people don't always actually USE this stuff. They take pictures, they show it off, they pop a few rounds off standing stationary, square to the target at the range, then it goes by the bed or in the safe.

That's like momentary tail cap shotgun lights. Anybody know how painful of a setup that really is? You see them everywhere, but you never hear anybody say anything about them jamming your thumb into your wrist.


----------



## Size15's

The X-type handheld flashlights are not for weapon-mounted applications. This has always been a given of these new handhelds.

So they may well eventually suffer physical damage as a result of weapon recoil.
My point was that "bare circuitry exposed to the batteries" was conflating without the context that we now understand relates to [the desire to use] misuse the P2X-B as a weapon-mounted light.

Bare circuity it is not. SureFire's electronics are conformal coated.

The circuity (PCB) featuring the positive contact for the battery without any intermediate physical component(s) is certainly the case.

SureFire could have designed this contact in any way they wanted and have experience with many different methods including ones like they have used for the X-type handheld flashlights. So to give these lights their "No-Hassle Warranty" SureFire would want to be confident that this design is capable of performing reliably and robustly for the applications and uses for which SureFire designed and marketed them for.

I agree it has the makings of a badass handheld.  :nana:


----------



## Tack Driver

Size15's said:


> I agree it has the makings of a badass handheld.  :nana:



Slick feller ain't cha? 

So this coating, is it to prevent what? Like leaking battery corrosion?


----------



## w00tb0t

I can confirm if you do look down the body of the light the positive contact is just a pad on some PCB. You can see some traces but there are no components on that side of the board.


----------



## SunStar

I share your concerns Tack Driver. I got my hands on both the G2X and 6PX models very early and experimented a bit with them for various applications - including weapon mounting. I concluded that they weren't for me as I had other lights of similar or greater output that were - in my opinion - much tougher and offered a greater forgiveness in impact protection and sustained abuse. I could easily see the potential of a cracked board from a recoiling battery, and although I am far from an "operator", I configure weapons grade applications as close to "to Hell and back" reliability as possible. It also diminished the "Surefire Tough" label for me personally (given a cheaper price point).

On the flip side, I think that Al is dead-on (as he usually is) describing the P2X-B for what it is... one "badass handheld". Although I think there are more rugged designs available from Surefire and others, I'll be acquiring one of the P2X-B models and let it prove or disprove its resilience to me in use. It will stay off my weapons however.


----------



## SunStar

Does anyone know what happens with this design if the tube is flooded? Will this damage the electronics? Will the water stop at the board or can it flood the head (beyond the board)?

Just curious as my lights have way of getting wet from time to time.



w00tb0t said:


> I can confirm if you do look down the body of the light the positive contact is just a pad on some PCB. You can see some traces but there are no components on that side of the board.


----------



## Rocky1927

My search for info on this new "Fury" led me here to this forum. I have several Surefires and have carried at least one everyday for years. Before I rush out to buy this latest toy can anyone give me an idea as to how the beam quality of the Fury compares to the TIR beam of the Backup or x300? 500 lumens sounds great and I love the brand but beam quality is everything for my use.

Thanks.


----------



## DM51

If it is fresh water, you should be able to rescue it by drying it out carefully. 

If the light is flooded with salt water, it will be unlikely to survive, as the batteries will short out and most likely vent, causing disagreeable bubbles and eruptions. 

If despite a soaking in salt water the light appears physically undamaged, you could try rinsing the salt off with fresh water and then drying it out.


----------



## Size15's

We're drifting off-topic but if a SureFire has been flooded then one thing you could consider is careful flushing/rinsing with the purest water you can get.
It's unlikely you'll have access to type 2 water that's typically used to wash lab glassware but the point is to flush out as much contamination as possible.
As important is to allow the flashlight to dry very slowly. Warm dry air for a week is better than a high-heat blast for minutes.

The electronics are conformal coated - there's a photo floating around with the electronics of a SureFire working underwater. It's not healthy for the LED, and certainly not heavy for the SF123As to be wet.
In fact remove and never use the batteries again. 

Of course don't forget it is a good idea to contact SureFire first and see what they suggest.


----------



## BIGLOU

Battery Junction shipped mine out today. Yay!


----------



## hiluxxulih

I just recieved my new Surefire Fury and it is bad *** :thumbsup: I will be selling my Surefire M6 now as it is not needed , this thing is bright .


----------



## Tana

About the possible water in electronics... after it was rinsed with fresh water and air dried, try leaving it in RAW UNCOOKED RICE for few days... The rice does WONDERS with pulling moisture out of electronic devices w/o the need to open them. Just get some tupperware, fill it up with rice high enough not to see device you want to dry... 

Mods, sorry for off topic...

Wow... Surefire that was delivered for distro when promised... I bet that doesn't happen a lot...


----------



## jh333233

Size15's said:


> We're drifting off-topic but if a SureFire has been flooded then one thing you could consider is careful flushing/rinsing with the purest water you can get.
> It's unlikely you'll have access to type 2 water that's typically used to wash lab glassware but the point is to flush out as much contamination as possible.
> As important is to allow the flashlight to dry very slowly. Warm dry air for a week is better than a high-heat blast for minutes.
> 
> The electronics are conformal coated - there's a photo floating around with the electronics of a SureFire working underwater. It's not healthy for the LED, and certainly not heavy for the SF123As to be wet.
> In fact remove and never use the batteries again.
> 
> Of course don't forget it is a good idea to contact SureFire first and see what they suggest.


$.02
Purest water: Distilled water
The thing should be beware of besides electronics is the inner wall of body, it is not anodized artificially but only a natural layer of oxide and should take some time to remove the salt as much as possible


----------



## Size15's

SureFire uses RoHS compliant clear chemfilm to protect non-anodised aluminium surfaces such as the insides of bodies.


----------



## Size15's

SureFire uses RoHS compliant clear chemfilm to protect non-anodised aluminium surfaces such as the insides of bodies.


----------



## jh333233

Ohh.... never knew that... anymore info


----------



## Size15's

Threads have discussed SureFire's change from the golden but 'toxic' chemfilm to the RoHS friendly clear version.


----------



## naked2

That's because they're made in the Nanny State, AKA the Socialist Republik of Kalifornia; If they were made in Arizona, for example, they'd still be nice and golden! 

The type III anno, excellent machining, AND the fact that all internal surfaces and threads were also golden plated ("coated") was what attracted me to my first SureFire, a round body, teardrop bezel, twisty E2, which I still own (but as noted earlier, have since replaced the badly scratched teardrop bezel with a newer hex/Pyrex model.


----------



## hiluxxulih

Does Surefire actually make the Fury ? there is not one word about it on there website perhaps it should have been called the Ghost


----------



## naked2

See posts #124 and 125.


----------



## hiluxxulih

I know they make them I just recieved mine in the mail yesterday , I just thought it was funny there isnt any mention of it on the website yet , in fact if it wasnt for this thread I would not even have known about it .


----------



## Size15's

naked2 said:


> That's because they're made in the Nanny State, AKA the Socialist Republik of Kalifornia; If they were made in Arizona, for example, they'd still be nice and golden!


It's not just California that is following the European Union's lead in environmental stewardship, it's because SureFire want to sell products internationally and along with CE marking if you put goods covered by RoHS onto the EU market, they must not contain more than the allowed levels of certain hazardous substances.

The Restriction of Hazardous Substances (RoHS) directive restricts the use of mercury, lead, hexavalent chromium, cadmium and a range of flame retardants notably polybrominated biphenyls and polybrominated diphenyl ethers. There are a number of exemptions for the use of the hazardous substances for specific technical uses where alternatives do not presently exist. There are also permissible maximum concentration values which allow for any trace presence.



SureFire said:


> SureFire is not just committed to producing the world's finest illumination tools™ and tactical equipment — we're also committed to making SureFire products as environmentally friendly as possible. Consequently, we engineer and manufacture products to be RoHS (Restriction of Hazardous Substances) and WEEE (Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment) compliant. All SureFire products and packaging shipped to destinations falling under the jurisdiction of RoHS and/or WEEE are tested and certified prior to shipping.


http://www.surefire.com/rohs-weee

Where there are alternatives such as in the case of the internal and threads protective finish this means no longer using the coloured Chem Film due to it containing hexavalent chromium.

RoHS and WEEE are not obscure regulations for California (other States are considering similar regulations) - they are for the 27 member states of the European Union of almost 500 million people and regulate our impact on the rest of the world through the waste we generate and how we should manage it. RoHS and WEE are for human health and environmental protection what CE is for safety. They ensure that products are not only assessed for their safety in use but also at the end of life too.

In this digital age the need to be responsible for our e-waste has never been greater. The impact illegal (or at the very least immoral) export of waste for processing in non-OECD countries such as China and India is having on human health and the environment is tragic, catastrophic and shaming all of us for our consumerism and greed.

Al


----------



## dougie

I may not be totally in sync with you on all occasions Al but this was a brilliant post and thank you for highlighting the problems we cause for ourselves and others in the products we buy and use!


----------



## steveG

Man, still no beam shots... looking forward to seeing this one. I really don't think I'll be able to resist.

Can anyone compare the beam to a common light? Thrower? Flood? Somewhere in between?


----------



## naked2

I know this has swayed off the topic a bit, so these will be my last comments.

I don't disagree with the reasons for implementing standards like RoHS and WEEE, but also stand behind my views of the state in which I've lived my entire life, and still love, despite its socialistic tendencies. Countless businesses have left California for states with much more favorable regulations. Others have simply been forced out of business altogether, affecting countless business owners, their families, their employees, their employees families, etc.; a HUGE contributing factor of California's 2nd highest unemployment rate in the nation (announced today). Higher only is Nevada, sharing most of our eastern border, whose economy is DIRECTLY affected by ours. Of course, you guys have Greece; how they doin'?

I do believe SureFire is _somewhat_ concerned with the environment, but as you stated, Al, "it's because SureFire want to sell products internationally"; to sell, they MUST comply! And as far as this statement: "_SureFire is not just committed to producing the world's finest illumination tools™ and tactical equipment — we're also committed to making SureFire products as environmentally friendly as possible"_, there are countless Californian's (officials and citizens alike) who would find many of SureFire's products, such as their high capacity magazines, not in any way friendly to the environment at all! But to be perfectly clear, I'm not one of them! By the way, possessing those magazines, as well as MANY other SureFire products is a felony charge for California citizens, but not in Nevada, Arizona, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Texas, as well as many other states; further evidence of what I was pointing out about California in my earlier post. 

The main point I'm making, Al, is the statements by you and SureFire in your post all sound well and good, but the bottom line is that SureFire is in business to make a profit, and there's nothing wrong with that! And again, to be clear, I'm a proud SureFire owner, and proud SureFire is a California company, and am glad they've stayed here!

Tony


----------



## hiluxxulih

I see my new Fury has a Ce on it and it has an F with a C and a little c inside of the big C on the package , what is that for ?


----------



## Kestrel

hiluxxulih said:


> I see my new Fury has a Ce on it and it has an F with a C and a little c inside of the big C on the package , what is that for ?


Scrabble


----------



## Schuey2002

hiluxxulih said:


> I see my new Fury has a Ce on it and it has an F with a C and a little c inside of the big C on the package , what is that for ?


FCC = Federal Communications Commission.

Ce =



> The CE marking (an acronym for the French "Conformite Europeenne") certifies that a product has met EU health, safety, and environmental requirements, which ensure consumer safety.


----------



## FrankW438

This looks like it could be my next best duty flashlight. Does anyone know if it will fit the SF V70 holster? I haven't seen any specs on the diameter of the body, only the head. Does anyone know for sure the body diameter, other than the speculation I've read here and there?

-- Frank


----------



## tab665

steveG said:


> Man, still no beam shots... looking forward to seeing this one. I really don't think I'll be able to resist.
> 
> Can anyone compare the beam to a common light? Thrower? Flood? Somewhere in between?


Matt provided selfbuilt with an invictus to review, perhaps the holiday spirit will strike him to provide a fury as well.


----------



## JohnnyLunar

As most of you probably know, this new Fury's stats are listed as such (from batteryjunction's website):

High: 500 lumens (1.5 hours)
Low: 15 lumens (46 hours)
Length: 5.4"
Bezel: 1.375"
Price: $155

I am curious, other than the desire to just own a new Surefire model, what's the advantage of this $155 light, if you can put something like a 500-lumen Nailbender XM-L in a P60 body, and have almost identical stats, and arguably equal quality, for about half the price?

For someone who isn't into the P60 lego game, I can see the attraction of this "budget" powerhouse from Surefire. But I see no advantage, and in fact I see some major disadvantages, when compared to what you can do these days with a P60 host. A year ago, I would have been all over this new Fury. But since then, I have gotten into rechargeable batteries, P60 hosts and drop-ins, and I can't justify anything about this light.

Maybe if I see some beam shots, and hear some glowing reviews, I'll change my mind. Perhaps Surefire will come out with a single-mode version for someone who might like this Fury as a weapon-mounted light. But other than the best lumen/dollar ratio yet from Surefire, what's the attraction?


----------



## TyJo

That's why I won't be getting one. The only difference IMO, and it is a big one, is the Surefire warranty.


----------



## Slumber

People who want turn-key products and don't want to think too much about their light will love the Fury. I had my doubts about the G2X and 6PX too, but the beam patterns are awesome on both. With Legos, you're kinda taking a chance things will mesh together as good as you'd like. With a turn-key light, if you're not satisfied or you have an issue, you only have to deal with one manufacturer.


----------



## hiluxxulih

Schuey2002 said:


> FCC = Federal Communications Commission.
> 
> Ce =


 I wonder why the FCC cares about flashlights


----------



## BIGLOU

Got mine today. Cheers to Battery Junction for the quick delivery, I got a email notification that my Fury was shipped on Monday and got it today Wednesday. I got my free BJ keychain light and 8 free SF batteries plus the CPF discount. 
Cheers to USPS too I was taking care of some errands and the mail came while I was gone, they had left a notice that my package was going to be ready tomorrow for pick up but a USPS employee instead of saying to come back tomorrow was super cool and was able to retrieve my package. 

Here is my Fury with Overeadys HDS/Z59 Black Clip, I also threw a red Jetbeam O-ring between the tailcap and body. I felt something named Fury had to have a little red in it. One thing I noticed is that the tailcap has to be pretty much on tight or the light will act funny. I was almost thinking it was faulty as it was acting funny but tightened up the tailcap and worked fine. Also it looks like SF was not too generous with the Nyogel as I had to put a little more on it came kind of dry.


----------



## Tommygun45

For the love of God can someone walk outside and snap a picture of the beam on this thing?


----------



## Rocky1927

Tommygun45 said:


> For the love of God can someone walk outside and snap a picture of the beam on this thing?



AMEN! :thumbsup:


----------



## hiluxxulih

My camera has apparently grown legs and disappeared but rest assured the Fury's beam is gloriuos .


----------



## Rocky1927

Does it throw or flood? How does it compare with the TIR beam of a Backup or an X300???


----------



## Tana

So is this XML U2 considering Surefire is rating it at minimum 500lm ???

M91 drives XML at 2A and I have initial model that Gene rates at 450lm after warm up... so Surefire being premium brand is going for premium XML's, if I'm not mistaken...

I wish U2's are available for us mortals as they are for major companies...

This is really good light to have even if one already have Hound Dog XML, Triple XPG, M91, Nailbender XML 2.8A 105C, Nailbender XML 2.8A buck driver, Vinh DD XML... and Solarforce Pro-1 head coming...


----------



## naked2

BIGLOU said:


> Got mine today. Cheers to Battery Junction for the quick delivery, I got a email notification that my Fury was shipped on Monday and got it today Wednesday. I got my free BJ keychain light and 8 free SF batteries plus the CPF discount.
> Cheers to USPS too I was taking care of some errands and the mail came while I was gone, they had left a notice that my package was going to be ready tomorrow for pick up but a USPS employee instead of saying to come back tomorrow was super cool and was able to retrieve my package.
> 
> Here is my Fury with Overeadys HDS/Z59 Black Clip, I also threw a red Jetbeam O-ring between the tailcap and body. I felt something named Fury had to have a little red in it. One thing I noticed is that the tailcap has to be pretty much on tight or the light will act funny. I was almost thinking it was faulty as it was acting funny but tightened up the tailcap and worked fine. Also it looks like SF was not too generous with the Nyogel as I had to put a little more on it came kind of dry.


SureFire flashlights have LOTCs (Lock Out Tail Cap). They are designed to "lock out" the switch from accidental operation (in a bag, pocket, etc.) by loosening the tailcap 1/4 turn. Your HDS clip and JetBeam o-ring are impeding your SureFire's LOTC from functioning properly. Without the aftermarket accessories installed, the LOTC needs only to be hand tight to make contact.


Also, can you take a picture down the Fury's business end, so we can see the reflector and (assumed) XM-L?


----------



## Helmut.G

+1 for a pic of the LED. doesn't need to be high quality, just a snapshot.


----------



## leon2245

SunStar said:


> For those that prefer the glass lens / window, have we identified an aftermarket option already available that can replace the OEM plastic?



& any easy way to unglue the head in order to replace it? So far I've read about vices... & _torches_. If that's the only way, I'd just have to live with plastic.

Oh yeah, is the mode switching in the head or the tailcap? If you replaced the tailcap with a MD3 switch, would it be a single mode?


----------



## Size15's

The dual output electronics is in the bezel


----------



## leon2245

Size15's said:


> The dual output electronics is in the bezel



Thanks!


----------



## Brasso

I keep checking back in on this thread hoping that someone who has one will post something about it. C'mon guys. A beam shot of the backyard would be great, but at least describe the beam. Flood. Spot. Tint. Something.


----------



## BIGLOU

Sorry guys I suck at taking them beam shots. But here is the cell phone photo of the LED.


----------



## JohnSmith

Thanks BIGLOU. Is it floody? How's your tint?

I just noticed there's no crenellations in the bezel. I'd prefer them but it's not a deal breaker for me.


----------



## pjandyho

Would be nice if someone who also have a G2X or 6PX could do a comparison on beam for us.


----------



## Rocky1927

I have the thing in my shopping cart at Battery Junction and am only waiting on information about the beam before I hit "checkout".

Someone please put me outta my misery! :sigh:


----------



## kyhunter1

Beamshot!


----------



## Rocky1927

Thanks!  What distance is that at?


----------



## ganymede

Looks green doesn't it?


----------



## kyhunter1

That is a whitewall shot from about 5 feet. One of my friends bought a Fury and I got some burntime on it this evening. The beam does not appear to be green to me, and Im one of the worst beam snobs around here...... No donut hole either. The beam is very similar to most of the P60 XML's with a OP reflector but with a tighter hotspot and more throw. There was some tint shift between lo and hi modes. It is warmer on lo mode than high. Overall, a very nice cool tint light. 500 Surefire lumens are nice too! It's not a deal breaker for me, but I do not like the Lo/Hi UI. I like Hi first on any light. The Fury is definitely on my hit list as soon as the cash free's up.


----------



## SunStar

Guys - 

I received 2 samples of the Fury today and just finished playing a bit. I'll offer the following comments for thought and discussion but please keep in mind this is my initial impression of the light after only a few minutes of use.

Tint on my sample is almost identical to the E2DL for those familiar. It's very white. There are colder beams out there but it certainly is not warm. I'm turned off by cold tints and this to my eyes just looks "white". I'll call it "clean white". The low output may be slightly green but it may be due partially to the eyes adjusting from a very intense bright light to a "utility" level of light. This mode is very useful for general tasking. It does seem to be slightly lower at its hotspot than my E2DL on low or my HDS set at 15 lumens. This is most likely due to its' good amount of spill. It's more like the E1B on low at its' hot spot but without the tunnel vision of the E1B / E2DL. It offers decent spill and I think it will be quite useful. 

Regarding spill... its greater than the U2 and is very similar to the Malkoff M61. The beam diameter tracked very close to the M61 at least at the ranges that I observed. The output, however is much greater. With its generous spill, it threw further than the E2DL and M61. I want to put it head to head with the M6/MN21 soon, but I suspect it will throw beyond the MN21. Perhaps I can try that tomorrow night.

The light is very "pocket-able" and is basically the same length as the 6P. Build is what one would expect from Surefire, although the positive terminal of the battery will directly contact the board. My unit has the GLASS window in lieu of the Lexan / plastic window. Also, as a note to those whom like rechargeable, I slid an AW 17670 in for kicks and grins... both light levels fired up fine. High may have been slightly diminished but so close that I couldn't say for sure. Run time is unknown at this point but its something worth looking in too.

I did manage to take some pictures but have to get them resized and hosted. If time permits, I'll try to make that happen soon.

All in all... I think I'm going to like this light


----------



## pjandyho

Did you say glass window on yours? When did they change that? You very sure sir? Sounds like good news.


----------



## Craig K

> My unit has the GLASS window



What??? are you saying that this light has a glass lens? I thought it came with a plastic lens?


----------



## Craig K

If this light actually does come with a glass lens that changes everything for me I might think about getting one, can more people who have this light confirm if it has a plastic or glass lens?


----------



## pjandyho

The problem is sometimes tapping the Lexan lens with our nails might produce a ticking sound that sounded like glass. So is it really glass? Or Lexan?


----------



## jhc37013

pjandyho said:


> The problem is sometimes tapping the Lexan lens with our nails might produce a ticking sound that sounded like glass. So is it really glass? Or Lexan?



Yes I guess it could be a little difficult to figure out the difference, anyway simple ways to test if it's glass or not without taking it apart, this could be a big purchasing factor for me as well.


----------



## pjandyho

jhc37013 said:


> Yes I guess it could be a little difficult to figure out the difference, anyway *simple ways to test if it's glass or not without taking it apart*, this could be a big purchasing factor for me as well.


Try scratching it? :devil:


----------



## hiluxxulih

pjandyho said:


> Did you say glass window on yours? When did they change that? You very sure sir? Sounds like good news.


 Mine feels and sounds like glass when I tap on it , but I cant tell for sure .


----------



## pjandyho

hiluxxulih said:


> Mine feels and sounds like glass when I tap on it , but I cant tell for sure .


So does my 6PX and G2X Pro but they are Lexan. So unless Surefire confirms it, there is no way to know for sure.


----------



## Craig K

If you wipe the lens with a dry cloth and it is plastic it will leave fine scratches but if it is glass it will not,...Is anyone willing to wipe the lens with a dry cloth to check if it is glass?


----------



## leon2245

> My unit has the GLASS window in lieu of the Lexan / plastic window.





> Mine feels and sounds like glass when I tap on it , but I cant tell for sure .





> So does my 6PX and G2X Pro but they are Lexan. So unless Surefire confirms it, there is no way to know for sure.



Some plastic lenses that are really thick, hard, & curved(?) feel that way, & others have such thin plastic that they're flexible & you can immediately tell. Really plasticky feeling. :sick2:

But if these are nice enough to outright trick, or even make us think twice about it being glass, that's good enough for me. Besides, it's not like I don't get scratches in glass lenses either. Just probably more with this. Good enough for me.


----------



## ElectronGuru

Tap the lens with something metal. Glass has a much higher 'tone'. This can be done without scratching the surface.


----------



## jhc37013

leon2245 said:


> But if these are nice enough to outright trick, or even make us think twice about it being glass, that's good enough for me. Besides, it's not like I don't get scratches in glass lenses either. Just probably more with this. Good enough for me.



I've been thinking about it and came to the same conclusion, glass is a bonus but at the very least the lens sounds solid which is also good enough for me. I've also been looking at the pics some more and I'm digging the looks, sleek and sold come to mind. I'm going to have to order one I mean it feels so strange a Surefire with the latest emitter available and the output to match just about anything in it's size, it just feels so odd but awesome at the same time. So are you guys thinking it's a U2 or T6, with 500lms (possibly Surefire lumens?) and 1.5hr runtime I was thinking U2.

Also to those that have one or tried one how is the anti-roll design working it looks like it would work well?


----------



## SunStar

If the FURY does have a plastic lens, then I'll take it! I don't have a 6PX here to compare but I have multiple D26 type Lexan bezels. It is nothing like these. The lens is very clear - certainly on par with the U2, M3 or any other glass offering from SF. It also is very smooth like glass and doesn't have that "canny" flat tone when tapped. I have wiped my fingerprints and pocket lint from it several times with my shirt with no ill effects. It does seem to have some thickness / heft to it - so maybe I'm just fooled. Whether or not its glass or plastic, its simply a non-issue. It is very nice - much nicer than any plastic lens that I have personally observed from SF.

Something not to discount here is that the output is 500 lumens which I would expect comes with some heat. It may be that SF has upgraded the window a bit to withstand sustained output of that 500 lumens without worry of heat deformation / distortion - whether plastic or glass. If SF maintains that the window is plastic, then it is one revised to offer the benefits of both. There may be other faults of the light but I don't think the window is going to be one of them.

As far as anti-roll... the flats on the bezel does constitute some resistance and is effective when placing the light down "statically". Compared to the current 6PD / P60 style bezels however, when purposely rolled on a slightly angled plane, the 6PD stops itself in about 8-10 rolls. The FURY keeps rolling with the same force applied on the same surface. So the "P" style bezel is more effective here.


----------



## jac2001

A little change in direction here.... How does the beam profile compare with a 4Sevens Maelstrom X7? About the same, throwier, floodier??

Thanks in advance,

J.


----------



## SunStar

A few comparative pics...


----------



## JohnSmith

Nice job, SunStar. Thanks!


----------



## FrankW438

Great Pics!

It lists the bezel diameter as 1.375 inches. What is the length and diameter of the body?

-- Frank


----------



## Rocky1927

Outstanding pics, SunStar. Thank you.

The size comparison shown by your photos answered my last questions about this light.

Merry Christmas!


----------



## naked2

Looking at the comparison shot of the Fury and 6P, and noticing the depth of the Fury's finger grooves, one could bet there's not enough meat to bore the Fury for 18mm cells (assuming one would be willing to void one's warranty!); leaves one to wonder if SF planned it that way. :ironic:


----------



## hiluxxulih

ElectronGuru said:


> Tap the lens with something metal. Glass has a much higher 'tone'. This can be done without scratching the surface.


 I tapped my 6PX pro and my Fury lens with a small screw driver and the Fury lens sure sounds like glass .


----------



## SunStar

I measure the following in grip diameter.

Logo to Logo: 0.940"
Land to Land: 1.000 - 1.001"
Bezel Diameter confirmed at 1.375".

Package states:
Length of light: ~5.4"
Weight: 161 g



FrankW438 said:


> Great Pics!
> 
> It lists the bezel diameter as 1.375 inches. What is the length and diameter of the body?
> 
> -- Frank


----------



## johnny0000

Here's my .02 cents....

I was comparing them to my G2X/6PXs, Malkoff M61's, Malkoff Hound Dog and Wildcats (new versions and old as well).

The Fury seems the most similar to the M61. Brighter hotspot w/ very similar spill. Difference is that it throws much further and the spill is a "stronger". Tint is white...almost a clean white like a previous poster said before.

Compared to the G2X, the Fury is just brighter spill and hotspot. No suprise there. Basically, it's like a G2X on steroids.

Compared to the Hound Dog and Wildcat, there's no comparison. I the think the Wildcat is just better overall. Wider beam angle and brighter. The Hound Dog is not really an apples to apples comparison. Throw on the Hound Dog totally smokes the Fury.

Overall, for ~$155, you can't really go wrong. I got a few for the collection.


----------



## scot

Are you comparing it to XP-G hound dog or the XM-L?


----------



## angelofwar

Dammit Sunstar...now I'm going to have to scrap up enough funds for one of these...thanks for posting the pics...


----------



## K5Guy

Wow...I get out of flashlights for a few years and come back to find a 500 lumen Surefire led for 150 bucks! Dang near mind blowing....LoL. So can anyone post a few outdoor beam shots? I have no reference for what the beam would be like on this. I have one in my shopping cart just can't quite pull the trigger yet.


----------



## Rocky1927

That loud "click" you may have heard was me hitting the check-out button at Battery Junction on a Fury...:devil:


----------



## Brasso

Will this thing take RCR's?

I'm kinda torn between this and the Quark Turbo X. Whether it takes RCR's or not will be a big factor for me.


----------



## naked2

I use 2x 16340 with my M600C ScoutLight. It uses the KX2C head, which isn't rated for 7.4V, and works fine, without issues (heat, etc.). This would probably be the same; you'll need a brave person here to try it for verification though!


----------



## Fear Of The Dark

just found a few beamshots...

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?p=7724825#post7724825


----------



## crackley

I've read it takes two click to get to the high output. I don't get it. I don't like it.

Can anyone think of a way to change the tail cap on/off button? (I think you guys call it the clicky) If I get this thing, it won't be for the 15 lumens. Would I be able to swap out the tail cap with some off brand button or something?

Thanks.

Edit: Also, I would use this flashlight too much to use regular batteries. Would there be any problems putting rechargeable batteries in this flashlight? Any recommendations? I've used Ultrafire 18650's in the past with mixed results.


----------



## Size15's

The dual-output feature is the result of the electronics in the bezel. A paperclip instead of any TailCap will still switch between the outputs.


----------



## Rocky1927

Thanks for the link to the beamshots, Fear Of The Dark! :thumbsup:


----------



## RedForest UK

crackley said:


> I've read it takes two click to get to the high output. I don't get it. I don't like it.
> 
> Can anyone think of a way to change the tail cap on/off button? (I think you guys call it the clicky) If I get this thing, it won't be for the 15 lumens. Would I be able to swap out the tail cap with some off brand button or something?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Edit: Also, I would use this flashlight too much to use regular batteries. Would there be any problems putting rechargeable batteries in this flashlight? Any recommendations? I've used Ultrafire 18650's in the past with mixed results.



You can do a half press then a full press to get high straight away with only one 'full' click, as it's a momentary on 'forward clicky' I think. Other than that you can't get past the two mode interface..

You would need 17670's to fit in this, but intl-outdoor was selling some very high rated capacity sanyo 14650s I think which should fit even easier. You may want to research those a little more before buying any though.


----------



## JohnSmith

Just received my Fury. I think the lens may be glass, because the lens in my light is completely unsupported and it just rattles around when I shake the light. It sure sounds like glass as it rattles around in there.

I'll send it back to Surefire for a fix/replacement. I thought this light might replace both my E2DL and my LX2, but first experience with this light is that the quality just isn't there. Nice and bright though.


----------



## SunStar

Lens IS _"glass-like"_

Sorry about the rattle... have you tried to screw down the front of the bezel (external bezel ring). SF may have not screwed that down all the way or perhaps they excluded an o-ring allowing the lens to move. It looks to me that the lens is sandwiched between two o-ring gaskets - one against the reflector edge; the other against the external bezel ring. The two o-rings are compressed securely holding the lens in place as the external bezel ring is tightened down. (That's how it appears anyway without taking it apart.)


----------



## JohnSmith

SunStar said:


> Lens IS glass
> 
> Sorry about the rattle... have you tried to screw down the front of the bezel (external bezel ring). SF may have not screwed that down all the way or perhaps they excluded an o-ring allowing the lens to move.



The bezel is fully tightened. Looks like they forgot the o-rings, there's simply none in there.


----------



## maxrep12

K5Guy said:


> Dang near mind blowing



You mean the SC600? 

Cue crickets chirping as maxrep12 shows himself the door.


----------



## freeride21a

Poop.. been watching this thread since its inception. Pulled the trigger today on one from Battery Junction, and its back-ordered till the 30th. I want it NOW! hehe.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

> I thought this light might replace both my E2DL and my LX2, but first experience with this light is that the quality just isn't there. Nice and bright though.



I get the same impression from the 6PX/G2X lights. They finally have bright LED emitters but they look cheap next to the legacy low end SureFires. I'm sure the online reps of the SF regime will tell us how this advanced new design lowers the parts count, makes the light tougher and is the greatest thing since sliced bread.

At least, SF has actually delivered a new light to the consumer market with a current emitter in record time. Looks like there has been a shake up in the consumer products side of the company, someone has figured out that LED technology moves a lot faster than the more mature incan technology.

As a loyal (but sometimes critical) SF customer, I'm in for a Fury, it's on backorder.


----------



## leon2245

freeride21a said:


> Poop.. been watching this thread since its inception. Pulled the trigger today on one from Battery Junction, and its back-ordered till the 30th. I want it NOW! hehe.





Still shows "ships next business day" on their website - how did you find out they were currently OOS? Did you get an email notification or something ( & if so how much longer after you placed your order)?


----------



## leon2245

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> *I get the same impression from the 6PX/G2X lights. They finally have bright LED emitters but they look cheap next to the legacy low end SureFires.* I'm sure the online reps of the SF regime will tell us how this advanced new design lowers the parts count, makes the light tougher and is the greatest thing since sliced bread.
> 
> At least, SF has actually delivered a new light to the consumer market with a current emitter in record time. Looks like there has been a shake up in the consumer products side of the company, someone has figured out that LED technology moves a lot faster than the more mature incan technology.
> 
> As a loyal (but sometimes critical) SF customer, I'm in for a Fury, it's on backorder.



Based on your experience with the 6px & g2x, still much if any nicer than say jetbeam's budget line? I'm thinking Fury versus BC25, even at 2x the price, since SF has yet to disappoint me, but I've also never seen an "x" model before. I didn't realize there was such a drop-off in quality.


----------



## BSGGUNS

I got 6 of them in right before Christmas. Very cool light. I need a dark room to explain the difference to most people though. Of course the fail safe shine it in their eyes works too.


----------



## FrankW438

SunStar said:


> I measure the following in grip diameter.
> 
> Logo to Logo: 0.940"
> Land to Land: 1.000 - 1.001"
> Bezel Diameter confirmed at 1.375".
> 
> Package states:
> Length of light: ~5.4"
> Weight: 161 g



Thanks, SunStar! Looks like itshould fit my V70 holster. 

-- Frank


----------



## Dr. Strangelove

To Leon2245

Yes, they send a separate e-mail. I ordered mine on the 26th with an expected delivery date of the 29th. I received an e-mail this morning saying they are on back order until the 30th. Bummer!


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

> Based on your experience with the 6px & g2x, still much if any nicer than say jetbeam's budget line?



I don't own any Jetbeams and my SF Fury has not yet arrived. I got about a dozen 6PX and G2X's at the introductory prices last year with a good discount. I thought they were great blister pack lights for about $50 and I was glad to see SureFire finally getting recent technology emitters. Then, some of my lights had the widely reported switch and bump mode change problems and soon the retail price of the lights was nearly doubled. I wasn't as enthused and was more hesitant to give these lights as gifts to friends and family. 

Around the same time, the market was flooded with good deals on legacy incandescent SureFires like the 6P and C2. I got some P60 LED dropins and put together lights with total prices now comparable to the 6PX/G2X's.

Having several examples of both series, the new X series just seems a little less well made, the CNC machining is less complex and not as aesthetic, to me at least. Anyone else get the same feeling?


----------



## madecov

I just e mailed surefire. I remember years ago they had an LEO discount program. If they still do I will probably order one


----------



## BSGGUNS

madecov said:


> I just e mailed surefire. I remember years ago they had an LEO discount program. If they still do I will probably order one



I believe they still do based on a Game Warden buddy of mine. We have been able to beat their prices on a one on one basis for batteries and such though. Just a thought you may want to consider. If your local dealer is aggressive like I am on getting in on the new stuff they may have one. We, like stated before jumped in as soon as they came available and got 6 fast. The follow up order is expected in February though. I will be anxious to see what they state for new stuff at Shot Show next month in Vegas.


----------



## madecov

Ill be at SHOT also. Making a list of booths to be at and orders to place.


----------



## BSGGUNS

madecov said:


> Ill be at SHOT also. Making a list of booths to be at and orders to place.



Yea its a lot to see and can be overwhelming. I look forward to it though. You'll recognize me as the zombie looking one on day 4..Don't shoot!


----------



## Glock 22

Just picked up a new Surefire P2X-B-BK 500 Lumens. It's a keeper!


----------



## kyhunter1

Welcome to the forum Glock 22. The Fury is definitely a keeper. 



GLOCK 22 said:


> JUST PICKED UP A NEW SUREFIRE P2X-B-BK 500 LUMENS. IT'S A KEEPER.


----------



## cummins4x4

I keep waffling on this one. One minute I am thinking what a great light, then I start thinking it can't be a REAL Surefire for that price. Is the build quality really as good as what we are used to from SF??


----------



## madecov

BSGGUNS said:


> I believe they still do based on a Game Warden buddy of mine. We have been able to beat their prices on a one on one basis for batteries and such though. Just a thought you may want to consider. If your local dealer is aggressive like I am on getting in on the new stuff they may have one. We, like stated before jumped in as soon as they came available and got 6 fast. The follow up order is expected in February though. I will be anxious to see what they state for new stuff at Shot Show next month in Vegas.



Yup, got an answer via e mail. LEO gets 20% off 

Guess what's next on my hit list!


----------



## Glock 22

Thanks for the welcome, I agree its definitely a keeper!


----------



## Glock 22

I am checking out different kinds of pocket clips for my Fury. I just ordered a Oveready Derlin Tail Shroud, and it's suppost to be here friday. Has anyone ever used one of these on a Surefire light? Any suggestions on a good bezel down pocket clip?


----------



## naked2

cummins4x4 said:


> I keep waffling on this one. One minute I am thinking what a great light, then I start thinking it can't be a REAL Surefire for that price. Is the build quality really as good as what we are used to from SF??


I've read this and what others have said about quality (or the lack thereof).

For anyone that actually owns a Fury: Does it say "Made in USA"? Or has even SureFire finally succumed to Chinese outsourcing?


----------



## Glock 22

On my Fury package at the bottom where it tells the model # it say's Designed and assembled in the U.S.A. of domestic and foregin components. This product qualifies as " American Made" under the Buy American Act. 
Hopes this helps.


----------



## naked2

"Qualifies as American Made" and "Made in USA" are two different things; basically a Chinese SureFire :shakehead; another strike against this light. I wonder if the other new SureFire offerings are "Chinese" as well? I need to look at some of my packaging.

Glock 22, what does it say on the light?


----------



## kyhunter1

EDIT: The lens is now proven to not be glass. It still does not stop me from liking the light. 


The reason it says "foregin components" is that Cree led's are made in China. Some of Surefires xenon lamps were made in Mexico a while back too. Surefire does the machining work here in the states. I dont see why some of you all are questioning the quality of the Fury so much. It takes alot to impress me these days. I have personally handled Glock22's Fury and did not see anything shoddy about it. The Fury definitely has a glass lens (proven by other members in this thread). The ano was nicely matched. Nice beam and output. It is as American made as any other light made in the good ole US. You do not get inflated output or runtime claims that we expect from some of the other manufacturers.... You get exactly what SF says and possibly more if you are lucky. At it's price point, you cannot expect the Fury to be equal to Surefires high end torches in terms of fit and finish. I'll gladly pay $150 for this light over it's cheaper competitors.


----------



## Glock 22

On the light this is everything that is say's Surefire A75949 Fury U.S PAT D644775' RE40125 CE nothing that say's Made in the U.S.A. That's got me to thinking. It's not even on Surefires website yet. I"ll also check on my other boxes as well. :sick2:


----------



## Size15's

We have been through this in a dedicated thread. Search it out if you really feel you need to. These X-type handhelds are no different to any other SureFires such as their flagship LX2. They're all machined etc and assembled at their production facilities in the USA (SoCal).


----------



## naked2

Al, then you can tell us _definitively_ that the LED is the _only_ foreign component? Or are there others, and if so, which?


----------



## Glock 22

I'm completely satisfied with my Fury you would just have to see the output it gives to believe just how bright it is. Money well spent.


----------



## Size15's

naked2 said:


> Al, then you can tell us _definitively_ that the LED is the _only_ foreign component? Or are there others, and if so, which?



Thats that the existing thread is for - detailed discussion of such things


----------



## naked2

Size15's said:


> Thats that the existing thread is for - detailed discussion of such things


But I'm not talking in general; I'm talking specifically about "The SureFire P2X-B "Fury" 500lu flashlight". Can you confirm anything I asked above?

Also, to kyhunter1:
I never said this light is shoddy; just that it's not _for me _(see post #103). Also, I own many Chinese lights, but in the past, have chosen SureFire over other lights because (among other things) they were made in USA. Now I will rethink that when deciding about new SureFire offerings; that's all. It doesn't mean that I won't buy another SureFire, just not this one. 

AAMOF, I've just looked at the packaging and user manuals of my M600C, G2L, and 6P (x2); no mention of where they're made AT ALL. Yet I'm still completely happy with _them_ (though I've sold the two 6P bodies at the MarketPlace; another plus of Lego ability!).


----------



## recDNA

No way I would pay over a hundred dollars for a flashlight with a plastic lens. Doesn't Surefire clearly state what the lens is.made of?


----------



## Dr. Strangelove

To those who haven't purchased a Fury yet and won't accept the answers posted here by those who have, may I suggest you call SureFire customer support and ask them yourselves? I too had many questions but am satisfied with what I've read and am now (im)patiently waiting for mine to arrive...


----------



## schurtjl

Same here, mine's on the way also to join the stable of surefire lights I already have. Surefire isn't going to put their name on something that isn't quality.


----------



## Rocky1927

Mine just arrived and it is AWESOME! Now I have to buy another one 'cause the wife nabbed the first one!:thumbsup:


----------



## JohnSmith

Mine is now back in the mail headed to SureFire to rectify my unsealed/loose lens issue. I'm confident eventually this situation will be rectified and I'll have a properly working light.

I'm bummed about having to send it back, but really excited about the configuration of this light. 15 lumen low mode is just about perfect for providing usable general-purpose light for a crazy amount of run-time, and the 500 lumen high mode just puts out a ton of light. At 50 yards there was a moderate increase in overall brightness and spill compared to my 200 lumen E2DL and LX2, but at closer distances there is no comparison - you can see so much more when using the Fury.

The beam on mine was slightly green. Acceptable, but not my preference.


----------



## BaldGuy45

Just ordered mine today. Hope this and another light I ordered (HDS Executive 170 lumen) will put a stop to my buying for awhile. Saw lots of discussion on the lens. SF website says it "Tough polycarbonate window "
, so plastic not glass. Doesnt really bother me though.


----------



## Rocky1927

Well, at least they're finally showing something on their website! 
So far I am totally happy with mine and plan to get at least one more, probably two.

A big "Thank You" to Battery Junction for making my first purchase from them a great experience! :thumbsup:


----------



## naked2

BJ rocks! :rock:


----------



## freeride21a

naked2 said:


> BJ rocks! :rock:



Until you have to wait due to back-order from all you guys buying them up before I could get one! I WANT IT NOW!!! LOL:nana:


----------



## TyJo

Here is Surefire manufacturer page: http://www.surefire.com/P2X-B-BK?&search_id=3168920.


----------



## KDOG3

Dang, if this was a three level light I'd be more interested. Just having low and 500 fire starting lumens doesn't make too much sense to me. It would be great if it had a 100lumen mid level setting.


----------



## recDNA

BaldGuy45 said:


> Just ordered mine today. Hope this and another light I ordered (HDS Executive 170 lumen) will put a stop to my buying for awhile. Saw lots of discussion on the lens. SF website says it "Tough polycarbonate window "
> , so plastic not glass. Doesnt really bother me though.



I'm not gentle enough to go for plastic. I'd scratch it up. Glad you like it though. I would really be tempted with a glass lens. 2 modes is fine for me. An L2x interface would be nice too!


----------



## naked2

Plastic reflector also.


----------



## kyhunter1

The plastic reflector is a bummer..... Nevertheless, the fury is a nice light and I would still like to own one. For a little more money (~ $50.00), I would say a Malkoff Hounddog XML would be a better light. Question for you guys that own both. How does the throw of the Fury compare to the XML Hounddog?


----------



## leon2245

> The plastic reflector is a bummer.....





> Based on your experience with the 6px & g2x, still much if any nicer than say jetbeam's budget line? I'm thinking Fury versus BC25, even at 2x the price, since SF has yet to disappoint me, but I've also never seen an "x" model before. I didn't realize there was such a drop-off in quality.
> 
> 
> 
> Having several examples of both series, the new X series just seems a little less well made, the CNC machining is less complex and not as aesthetic, to me at least. Anyone else get the same feeling?
Click to expand...


^don't care about the plastic reflector. So long as it doesn't melt I wouldn't know any different. Same with less complicated machining. If it's well executed & finished, & the threads are smooth, how complicated the design looks is less about quality to me. OTOH...






> My unit has the GLASS window in lieu of the Lexan / plastic window.





> Tap the lens with something metal. Glass has a much higher 'tone'. This can be done without scratching the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> I tapped my 6PX pro and my Fury lens with a small screw driver and the Fury lens sure sounds like glass .
Click to expand...




> I have multiple D26 type Lexan bezels. It is nothing like these. The lens is very clear - certainly on par with the U2, M3 or any other glass offering from SF. It also is very smooth like glass and doesn't have that "canny" flat tone when tapped. I have wiped my fingerprints and pocket lint from it several times with my shirt with no ill effects. It does seem to have some thickness / heft to it - so maybe I'm just fooled.





> Just received my Fury. I think the lens may be glass, because the lens in my light is completely unsupported and it just rattles around when I shake the light. It sure sounds like glass as it rattles around in there.





> Some plastic lenses that are really thick, hard, & curved(?) feel that way, & others have such thin plastic that they're flexible & you can immediately tell. Really plasticky feeling. But if these are nice enough to outright trick, or even make us think twice about it being glass, that's good enough for me. Besides, it's not like I don't get scratches in glass lenses either. Just probably more with this. Good enough for me.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been thinking about it and came to the same conclusion, glass is a bonus but at the very least the lens sounds solid which is also good enough for me.
Click to expand...




> The lens is now proven to not be glass. It still does not stop me from liking the light.





I'm staying hopeful this was merely a case of the polycarbonate lens being so good that it just tricked the few users above into thinking it was glass, not that they sent out an initial batch of ringers with glass, & the new ones will have something more obvious. So anyone who initially thought theirs was glass want to recant- was the polycarbonate that good, or are you still certain yours is glass?


----------



## JohnSmith

I'm the guy with the loose lens... I guess I can't be certain beyond a shadow of a doubt, but I really believe it was glass. Because there were no o-rings supporting the lens, I could turn it freely inside the bezel. When doing so, it made the distinctive sound/feeling of fingernails on a chalkboard, and I perceived that to be the unfinished (unpolished) circumference of the glass disk scraping against the inside of the aluminum bezel. A plastic lens wouldn't have done that, it would have lacked that scraping/grinding sensation. My observations only, I reserve the right to be wrong about this.


----------



## SunStar

leon2245 said:


> I'm staying hopeful this was merely a case of the polycarbonate lens being so good that it just tricked the few users above into thinking it was glass, not that they sent out an initial batch of ringers with glass, & the new ones will have something more obvious. So anyone who initially thought theirs was glass want to recant- was the polycarbonate that good, or are you still certain yours is glass?



No recant here... the lens is that good. If it is PC then SF should implement the lens in all their product line and market it as an unbreakable bullet proof "composite lens" with the optical clarity and feel of glass. I personally hope it is PC - coated to provide anti-scratch and optical attenuation - similar to a high end prescription eyeglass lens. If this is the case, it's all win for the user. BTW... I called my dealer whom specializes in flashlights and optics and asked his opinion on the window. His consensus was that it was "glass".

I don't put much stock in what SF posts on the website or catalog. Also, this could be an "in-process" change planned for the Fury and for production reasons, they may be using glass initially. Therefore, printed / posted specifications would reflect that planned change. Perhaps its a copy / paste typo using the 6PXPro as a template to build their web page. I believe that it has been verified here that the Fury's window appears different than that observed in the 6PX / G2X series of lights.

Of course, this is all speculation... the Fury lens may very well be PC and if it is, its very well executed.

I remain... "tricked".


----------



## leon2245

SunStar said:


> No recant here... the lens is that good. If it is PC then SF should implement the lens in all their product line and market it as an unbreakable bullet proof "composite lens" with the optical clarity and feel of glass. I personally hope it is PC - coated to provide anti-scratch and optical attenuation - similar to a high end prescription eyeglass lens. If this is the case, it's all win for the user. BTW... I called my dealer whom specializes in flashlights and optics and asked his opinion on the window. His consensus was that it was "glass".
> 
> I don't put much stock in what SF posts on the website or catalog. Also, this could be an "in-process" change planned for the Fury and for production reasons, they may be using glass initially. Therefore, printed / posted specifications would reflect that planned change. Perhaps its a copy / paste typo using the 6PXPro as a template to build their web page. I believe that it has been verified here that the Fury's window appears different than that observed in the 6PX / G2X series of lights.
> 
> Of course, this is all speculation... the Fury lens may very well be PC and if it is, its very well executed.
> 
> I remain... "tricked".




Unfortunately for those of us who haven't got ours yet, I think it's most likely the 'initially using glass/in-process change' theory, out of the three. Too coincidental that everyone whose orders were fulfilled from the first batch got glass, then those are suddenly out of stock, then in the three days between the new stock arriving, that's when SureFire adds the product page to their website.

I have more hope in SF having copied those specs over from the 6px in error than I do any polycarbonate fooling you guys (no polycarbonate can be _that_ good), but more than likely they are eventually going to be polycarbonate. It just better be a few more units down the line, because I'm going to pitch an internet fit after having ordered when the first batch was still listed in-stock, if the changeover theory is correct.

The thing is this wouldn't be a big deal either way, at all, if they only didn't feel the need to GLUE everything together, so that the lens isn't user replaceable without a freaking blowtorch & vice etc.


----------



## scot

If you run one of your front upper teeth across the lens you can tell a distinct difference between plastic and glass. Grab a light with plastic lens then one with glass and try them both, you'll "feel" a very real difference, quite simple really. Works with watches too.


----------



## Rocky1927

scot, that suggestion was so wild that I had to try it and I'll be danged if it didn't work!

Nice trick!


----------



## scot

It's not fool proof, but it sure is a heck of a lot more reliable than tapping the lens, which doesn't tell you anything.
I could care less whether the lens on this light is plastic or glass either one is fine with me. I prefer plastic, glass shatters, I'll post pics of shattered lenses if anyone wants to see them.


----------



## herosemblem

Thanks for the excellent tip, scot. I think you meant you "couldn't" care less. Honestly, I couldn't care less about the population of the Tasmanian yellow-winged Harper finch.
When you say that you "could" care less, you are.actually saying that you do care.
+1 RE not preferring glass lenses. All the tempered high tech glass lenses in my lights have cracked. Plastic lenses have never given me a problem. 
Glass lenses do not permit the User to accidentally drop their flashlight. Plastic lenses do.


----------



## Rocky1927

I don't care what the lens is constructed of as long as it works. Surefire hasn't yet disappointed me with any of the dozen+ lights I've purchased from them.:thumbsup:

I, personally, am very happy with my Fury.:devil:


----------



## Dr. Strangelove

It's great to hear that so many people are happy with their new lights! I can't wait for mine to arrive so I can be happy too!


----------



## scot

Herosemblem, you said it much better than I did, thank you. Glad you understood what I meant.


----------



## recDNA

I've never broken a glass lens. I've scratched EVERY plastic lens.
I've often dropped flashlights with glass lenses from ladders to asphalt without breaking the lens though I've messed up some.bezel rings.


----------



## naked2

Ditto!


----------



## TyJo

recDNA said:


> I've never broken a glass lens. I've scratched EVERY plastic lens.
> I've often dropped flashlights with glass lenses from ladders to asphalt without breaking the lens though I've messed up some.bezel rings.


Agreed. A quality glass lens that is shock mounted can't be beat in my opinion.


----------



## fresh eddie fresh

I ordered mine about a week ago from Spyder Tactical. With the CPF discount it came to $124 shipped... now the hard part, waiting!

I am hoping it will out throw my G5.... and be similar to a Malkoff M91, but more focused.


----------



## BaldGuy45

Got mine today. Plastic lens for sure. Didnt need to tap or "tooth" test it. Just a touch can determine if its plastic. Mine is. I will have to say that I am not as impressed as I thought I would be. Slightly brighter than my Olight M20. Hate that there is no way to make the SF go high then low. Also no switching modes once its clicked on. Oh well, its ok, but could be better.


----------



## Glock 22

I have no problem with the plastic lens, I just don't like the low on the first click, I prefer hi then lo. All in all great beam throw, awsome brightness. Just need a good bezel down pocket clip that's pretty strong that I don't have to worry about it falling out of my pocket.


----------



## cue003

I am still trying to decide if I should let my LX2 go in favor of this new fury. Hmmm.....


----------



## Glock 22

I've owned the LX2 also. I would have kept it, but I didn't like the tailcap switch, don't get me wrong it's a great light, I should have done some mods and kept it. The LX2 has a tighter spot than the fury and a more slim line design, and fits in your pocket better, as where the fury has a fatter head and a little bit heavier than the LX2. I like both lights tough decision. Hope this helps


----------



## auxcoastie

Got mine today, not that I needed a new light but hey when you get a 60% off hook up you order right. I really like the light and plan to use if for night coyote hunting. The regs here say the light has to be 6v or less, doesn't mention how bright 6V has to be.

That said already having a G2X pro I didn't really need the light. While the fury is brighter I think for most users you really could get by with 1 or another. Its tough to justify a sperate use for both. That said I think they will be useful for special applications like hunting, boat crew night ops, and medical work at the Baker to Vegas race I work every year. Still glad I bought it.


----------



## Dingle1911

I am another one of those people who is waiting for his light on backorder. I didn't really need another light either, but I could not resist the 500 lumen claim. I do not own any of the G2X or 6PX series of lights, so this should be fun to play with.


----------



## cue003

GLOCK 22 said:


> I've owned the LX2 also. I would have kept it, but I didn't like the tailcap switch, don't get me wrong it's a great light, I should have done some mods and kept it. The LX2 has a tighter spot than the fury and a more slim line design, and fits in your pocket better, as where the fury has a fatter head and a little bit heavier than the LX2. I like both lights tough decision. Hope this helps



Glock 22, thanks for the feedback. That is very helpful. Now if someone can show a beamshot of the Fury vs. the LX2 at some distance (not against a white wall but rather real world distance use) I would be able to finalize my decision.


----------



## schurtjl

Got my Fury yesterday and compared it to my LX2 last night. Didn't get any pictures though. The Fury is brighter, but not as much as I thought it'd be over the LX2. Fury is quite a bit floodier with a decent hotspot, while the LX2 is a pretty tightly focused beam. If I had to choose between the two, I'd keep my LX2 over the Fury, as I like the smaller size and easier to carry aspect, and it doesn't appear to be that much dimmer on high. The 15 lumens on the LX2 is definitely brighter than the 15 on the Fury. But I won't be giving up the Fury either, I like it also. The lens appears to be glass to me.

Jason


----------



## Size15's

Interestingly (?), a guy at SureFire, who I would hope should know, told me the Fury has a polycarbonate window. Not glass.


----------



## Rocky1927

No way am I any kind of expert on anything but the lens in mine sure "seems" glassy. It may just be a really good, high quality polycarbonate. Either way, I'm still happy with mine and give Surefire a big:thumbsup:


----------



## leon2245

scot said:


> If you run one of your front upper teeth across the lens you can tell a distinct difference between plastic and glass.


lol thanks for the tip. I just don't know if the seller who was kind enough to let me open & inspect one before purchasing was as big a fan of this test.


----------



## hotlight

haha.. did I give you a weird look while you were giving it the 'tooth test'? lol before we met up, I was wondering if you'd do it or not. Hey, it's better than using a knife tip like I did.

for the record- the tooth trick works well. Very easy to tell the difference between glass and plastic. I'm a fan of it now.




leon2245 said:


> lol thanks for the tip. I just don't know if the seller who was kind enough to let me open & inspect one before purchasing was as big a fan of this test.


----------



## RobertM

Could someone post beamshots comparing it to a ZL SC600? Output might be close, but I'm guessing that the Fury should definitely throw further with its deeper and larger reflector.

I found some Fury vs. E2DL beamshots over on Calguns: http://calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?p=7736218
It's brightness over the E2DL looks fairly significant.

-Robert


----------



## leon2245

^Yeah in total output for sure. Pure distance spotting one might still prefer the e2dl or lx2, depending on what's close up that can reflect back at you in the wider beam. Either way I'm not a fan of the TIR beams for my purposes. The fury has a nice wide beam & still a REALLY bright center on high. Good thing low comes on first. & it's a nice design, well put together, & glass lens lol (thanks hotlight!), & even though it's a little fat, the smoother contour of its head pulls out of the pocket without snagging on my wallet better than the smaller but sharper hexagonal design. Though it won't be replacing the 6p there anytime soon. Probably will just leave the fury in my computer case or truck- & wish it were a single mode high for that purpose, or a single mode that's a little brighter than the 15l low for every day carry. 

But I'm blown away by the hi on this thing. Almost TOO bright. Just the reflection of its hi beam can stun you even if you're not in a fully dark room, if you hit the button twice too fast. Would prefer the timing cutoff for that be even shorter than a second or whatever it is- a half second or something. Guess I'm just a single mode guy. But if any dual mode has a chance of sticking around with me, this one does. I'm impressed. 











Also like how they left that aggressively textured plastic bezel ring off, like what's on the g2x, 6px, z2s etc. Some light scalloping in the bezel would have been a nice touch though. Just would have made it more expensive.


----------



## dano

I spent a week with a Fury, "On duty." 

It's not a "Tac" light, more of a utility light. Having the low mode first cripples it in a tactical application.

A nice light? Oh yes, but in a utilitarian sense.


----------



## naked2

Triad tail matches perfectly! The Fury doesn't look very anti-roll though; another negative, at least for a duty light. Looks like it would roll right off the hood of a cruiser, whereas the good ol' 6P (or anything with a Z44, for that matter!) would stay put.

I also wonder how its relatively smooth design dissipates heat; has anyone done any continuous run-time tests yet? How hot does it get?


----------



## Size15's

dano said:


> It's not a "Tac" light, more of a utility light. Having the low mode first cripples it in a tactical application.



Now that you've tried the P2X-B, would you be more interested in a "P2X-A" 'Tactical' version of the Fury?

Although some have expressed a preference for having the dual-modes high, low, instead of low, high, I doubt this change would really help in 'tactical' applications?


----------



## jac2001

Size15's said:


> Now that you've tried the P2X-B, would you be more interested in a "P2X-A" 'Tactical' version of the Fury?



*+1000!!
I am really interested in this one, but I'm not thrilled with the UI. I'll pass until a single mode becomes available. 

That would be perfect for my needs!!

J.*


----------



## jh333233

To determine the lens used
I usually face the lens toward mild light source, i.e. window
Then slightly press the lens to see if the image is bended or shifted, if it is then its NOT glass lens, probably polycarbonate or other plastic


----------



## jh333233

jac2001 said:


> *+1000!!
> I am really interested in this one, but I'm not thrilled with the UI. I'll pass until a single mode becomes available.
> 
> That would be perfect for my needs!!
> 
> J.*


If they ever come with 2-staged A2 UI im willing to trade my months of lunches for it


----------



## BaldGuy45

I really dont know why this is still a topic of discussion.....

Features

Virtually indestructible LED emitter regulated to maximize light output and runtime
Two output levels—high for maximum light, low for extended runtime
Precision micro-textured reflector creates smooth, optimized beam
_*Tough polycarbonate window resists impact*_
High-strength aerospace aluminum body, Mil-Spec hard-anodized for extreme durability
Dual-output tailcap click switch—press for momentary-on low, click for constant-on low, return to off then press or click again for high
Tailcap switch locks out to prevent activation during transport or storage
Weatherproof—O-ring and gasket sealed
Includes high-energy 123A batteries with 10-year shelf life


----------



## naked2

BaldGuy45 said:


> I really dont know why this is still a topic of discussion.....


Because _some_ believe the early releases are somewhat of a "prototype" that _may_ have different features than the final "production" model; BatteryJunction was shipping these lights before they even appeared on SureFire's website. Even_ after_ Fury debuted at SF, the features you show above weren't initially listed.


----------



## Glock 22

Pic about 75 to 80 yards away.


----------



## naked2

On my screen, it looks kinda' greenish. :sick2:


----------



## Glock 22

It does have some tint to it, that's for sure. It's a kinda foggy night I'll try to get some better ones and post them. They would show up better inside but outside is where you need to tell more about the light. Here's one of an old river stream around 20 yards.


----------



## Glock 22

naked2 said:


> On my screen, it looks kinda' greenish. :sick2:


I removed the pic and added another see if this looks better or not. This is about 40 yards away.


----------



## naked2

I'm real gun-shy when it comes to XP-G; I'm about 50/50 with getting green ones :shakehead. I've heard others tell similar experiences with XP-G as well, but not so much with XM-L; that's why I commented on yours. Thankfully I'm batting 1000 with the six XM-L I have; that's if I don't count my Olight i1. Its tint is hard to describe; it's just "off", maybe due to being so under-driven.


----------



## Glock 22

I ordered two Eagletac's with the XM-L's. I don't blame you for being gun-shy, my favorite is the E2DL no tint to it, but I'm still happy with the fury. Hope pics helped.


----------



## BIGLOU

Leon the triad tailcap looks sick on the Fury been holding of on getting one but now I'm going to pull the trigger. Thanks for posting that photo.


----------



## jh333233

Lux reading would be more convincing than photos, ha


----------



## pjandyho

jh333233 said:


> Lux reading would be more convincing than photos, ha


Lux reading alone doesn't proof anything. Would you use a laser light as a flashlight? After all it has the highest lux reading.


----------



## jh333233

pjandyho said:


> Lux reading alone doesn't proof anything. Would you use a laser light as a flashlight? After all it has the highest lux reading.


So that i could imagine how bright the hotspot is
In my mind i know whats about 3k, 6k and 10k lux
Picture shows beam profile but not the true brightness


----------



## swan

To expensive-only average-buy something powerful.


----------



## pjandyho

jh333233 said:


> So that i could imagine how bright the hotspot is
> In my mind i know whats about 3k, 6k and 10k lux
> Picture shows beam profile but not the true brightness


Still again, it doesn't tell you how wide or narrow the hot spot is. You can get 15,000 lux from a big hot spot and you can get 15,000 lux from a narrow pencil beam.


----------



## jh333233

pjandyho said:


> Still again, it doesn't tell you how wide or narrow the hot spot is. You can get 15,000 lux from a big hot spot and you can get 15,000 lux from a narrow pencil beam.


Still, does it bothers you for me to ask for lux value from others?
From pic. 2 the beam seems it has a well focused beam


----------



## pjandyho

jh333233 said:


> Lux reading would be more convincing than photos, ha





jh333233 said:


> Still, does it bothers you for me to ask for lux value from others?
> From pic. 2 the beam seems it has a well focused beam


It doesn't bother me that you are asking for lux numbers but the way you put it across sounds rude and that is what bothers me. Be grateful that someone is willing to take the effort by trying to post a beam shot for the benefit of everyone.


----------



## kyhunter1

That is good throw for a smaller light. Has anybody done any lux measures on the Fury yet? Or even better, done a throw comparison between the Fury and a Malkoff Houndog XML?




GLOCK 22 said:


> Pic about 75 to 80 yards away.


----------



## jac2001

jh333233 said:


> If they ever come with 2-staged A2 UI im willing to trade my months of lunches for it



_*+2*_


----------



## Glock 22

This is a great light. The funny thing is that people can't stop talking about it. My opinion is try one out. You can't make me believe that it's not a good light because I own one, and I'm a big fan of it, it's not a waste of money to purchase the fury because once you have it you'll really see what it's made of. look at the reputation surefire has over the years. I have other lights but when it comes to surefire it's at the top of my list.


----------



## kyhunter1

Glock22, 

After personally handling your Fury, I can say it is a awesome light and plan to buy one myself soon. It has a great beam and a very nice tint for a cool tinted light. It did not appear green at all or too blue either to me. Thought I would mention for those interested in the tint of the Fury.


----------



## Rocky1927

I've had mine for over a week now and I have absolutely no regrets. Surefire has another winner. :thumbsup: It also fits in the nylon holster I bought for my LX2with no problem. (Bezel up, of course.) And whether the lens is glass, polycarbonate, or something made of fairy dust and happy thoughts, it is still a nice feeling flashlight. I cannot see anyone of a reasonable mind being disappointed in a Fury. (This, of course, excludes anyone seeking perfection on earth or a working light saber.)


----------



## naked2

GLOCK 22 said:


> I ordered two Eagletac's with the XM-L's. I don't blame you for being gun-shy, my favorite is the E2DL no tint to it, but I'm still happy with the fury. Hope pics helped.


GLOCK 22, nice job, great shots; thanks for posting them! Like you said, it does have _some_ tint to it, but _all_ those shots look better than the one you removed.


----------



## Glock 22

naked2 said:


> GLOCK 22, nice job, great shots; thanks for posting them! Like you said, it does have _some_ tint to it, but _all_ those shots look better than the one you removed.


Thanks anytime that's why I posted those beamshot to help others to see if they want to buy a fury or not, kyhunter1 and I are going to try to get some better beamshots monday and post them. Here's a beamshot at 30 yards, and also I picked up this pocket clip from lighthound made by solarforce with lanyard ring. Made of stainless steel you'll need to ask them about an o-ring to help fill in the gap when you tighten tailcap down clips to your pocket extremely tight no sliding out!


----------



## Per Arne

Hi,
Just received my P2X today and was able to force an Delrin tail shroud on the tailcap. Does anybody know if it would be possible to change the rubber
boot with one in GID and maybe use the McClicky switch if the original switch brakes ? The beam is perfect so this is gone be my new EDC light! 
Thanks,


----------



## phantom23

'GLOCK 22', which one has better throw, Surefire P2X or EagleTac G25C2?


----------



## Glock 22

phantom23 said:


> 'GLOCK 22', which one has better throw, Surefire P2X or EagleTac G25C2?


Me and kyhunter1 compaired both of them side by side and we liked the Surefire P2X the best, it has the better throw. The Eagletac G25C2 had way more spill than the fury. I like it way better than the Eagletac G25C2. I sent you a pm check it out.


----------



## recDNA

With the additional features and added lumens it's hard for me to understand your preference of the fury. It may throw "further" but it's hard to believe it throws MUCH further. Only so much you can do with that sized head with no optic. Different strokes I guess. Good luck with your fury. I wish I could afford the g25c2!


----------



## leon2245

BIGLOU said:


> Leon the triad tailcap looks sick on the Fury been holding of on getting one but now I'm going to pull the trigger. Thanks for posting that photo.



Yeah the triad is fantastic. Mine's ultimately going back on the 6p though, since I'm going to (try &) dump the fury. If its low were just a little brighter, 50 lumens, or maybe even 30, I could probably make it work. As it is though that 15l low is going to end up running through batteries faster than a 70-100l single mode. I think jetbeam has the right idea with their bc25 for me, with 100 & 600l setup, & the twist head for level UI. It's just not a SF though.

I might eventually rebuy one if they ever come out with the tactical version 1x500l mode Al mentioned.


----------



## Gallain

jac2001 said:


> _*+2*_



Me too! 
Going to buy it anyway but would love that ui. 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


----------



## jh333233

Single mode is much more attractive than dual mode, if it is not an A2 UI
Sometimes a 500lm thrash is required, but u have to cycle through low first
Sometimes a 15lm is enough for close up work, but IF 500 goes first, it will get u blinded first.
So......
Either SF should make a A2-UI version or just push a single mode version out and buy an aftermarket 2stage twisty


----------



## Gallain

jh333233 said:


> Single mode is much more attractive than dual mode, if it is not an A2 UI
> Sometimes a 500lm thrash is required, but u have to cycle through low first
> Sometimes a 15lm is enough for close up work, but IF 500 goes first, it will get u blinded first.
> So......
> Either SF should make a A2-UI version or just push a single mode version out and buy an aftermarket 2stage twisty



Really to bad that they don´t have that UI on more lamps. That´s why I love the LX2 so much (and the incredible throw). It´s so intuitive. 

Anyone know a reason why?


----------



## jh333233

Gallain said:


> Really to bad that they don´t have that UI on more lamps. That´s why I love the LX2 so much (and the incredible throw). It´s so intuitive.
> 
> Anyone know a reason why?


I guess, durability?
A2-UI is awesomely awesome but one thing fatal is efficiency and durability
1. Energy loss through resistor, maybe minor but i dont know what SF think
2. More important, 3 pins in the tailcap has a risk of breaking, and when that comes, might be a fatal poof for Law Enforcement or militaries
3. Waterproofing? Still i have no idea about this, would it be?
Suddenly recalled it: Bombproofness

Couldnt think of any reasons why no more A2 tailcap
As seen from AZ2, the migration of tailcap from E-series size to P-series size is quite sucessful


----------



## kyhunter1

We tried the G25C2 side by side with the Fury, and to our eyes it did not outthrow the Fury even at a 100 yds. The Fury does have good throw with the larger reflector but I realize it's not king in that regard. 




recDNA said:


> With the additional features and added lumens it's hard for me to understand your preference of the fury. It may throw "further" but it's hard to believe it throws MUCH further. Only so much you can do with that sized head with no optic. Different strokes I guess. Good luck with your fury. I wish I could afford the g25c2!


----------



## jh333233

After seeing some special designed reflector like homemade P60 XRE thrower
Theres an illusion that only TIR and Aspheric gives vast throw
But actually a special designed reflector can give a compact size thrower too


----------



## Glock 22

recDNA said:


> With the additional features and added lumens it's hard for me to understand your preference of the fury. It may throw "further" but it's hard to believe it throws MUCH further. Only so much you can do with that sized head with no optic. Different strokes I guess. Good luck with your fury. I wish I could afford the g25c2!


The problem that I had with the Eagletac G25C2 it had a few noticeable rings in the far edge of the spill beam but the beam was still nice. I got rid of my Eagletac G25C2.


----------



## naked2

GLOCK 22 said:


> The problem that I had with the Eagletac G20C2 it had a few noticeable rings in the far edge of the spill beam but the beam was still nice. I got rid of my Eagletac G20C2.


You meant the G25C2, right?


----------



## Glock 22

naked2 said:


> You meant the G25C2, right?


Yeah the G25C2 was the one I was talking about. I had a typing mistake, I went back and changed it.


----------



## phantom23

You changed it once but you wrote G20C2 twice


----------



## Glock 22

phantom23 said:


> You changed it once but you wrote G20C2 twice


:thumbsup:


----------



## freeride21a

I am dying here.. ordered on the 27th.. still waiting. I WANT MY FURY!!!! LOL!!!


----------



## jh333233

freeride21a said:


> I am dying here.. ordered on the 27th.. still waiting. I WANT MY FURY!!!! LOL!!!


How much was it?
There is no price tag on both SF and my dealer's site
Thanks


----------



## freeride21a

jh333233 said:


> How much was it?
> There is no price tag on both SF and my dealer's site
> Thanks



$147.xx shipped from Battery junction with the CPF discount code for last year. marked $155 "on sale" there.


----------



## naked2

jh333233 said:


> How much was it?
> There is no price tag on both SF and my dealer's site
> Thanks





freeride21a said:


> $147.xx shipped from Battery junction with the CPF discount code for last year. marked $155 "on sale" there.


jh333233 can't order a SureFire product from BatteryJunction though, as he is in HongKong; SureFire doesn't allow US retailers to sell outside the US.

Edit: I just checked SureFire's website; it's listed at $155 as well (not on sale).


----------



## lightinsky

The Fury is a nice light. I don't want to shell out $150 for it though. I have several surefires and love them all. I recently put a solarforce 5 mode XML T6 rated by them at 820 lumens into my Surefire G2 with Aluminum head. It is most definitely brighter than my 200 lumen Surefire G2X Pro on high. Pretty cheap way to get high lumens out of my G2. Obviously not getting 820 lumens from the module but it's gotta be at least 400-500 OTF lumens which is similar to the Fury but way less $$$$.


----------



## phantom23

Thing is, P60 XM-L module gives very floody light while Fury is quite throwy (outthrows bigger and brighter G25C2).


----------



## Glock 22

phantom23 said:


> Thing is, P60 XM-L module gives very floody light while Fury is quite throwy (outthrows bigger and brighter G25C2).


I do agree.


----------



## Brasso

Does the Furry outthrow the Quark Turbo X ?

I already have the Quark so the Fury would have to really out do it for me to get it at this point.


----------



## naked2

phantom23 said:


> Thing is, P60 XM-L module gives very floody light while Fury is quite throwy (outthrows bigger and brighter G25C2).


I don't get why people want "throwy" from _any_ XM-L; I personally choose The XM-L LED for its flood (wall of light) capabilities. For throw, I have a Masterpiece PRO-1 and my ol' Tiablo A10; they'll both out throw any light compared in this thread, period.


----------



## jh333233

naked2 said:


> I don't get why people want "throwy" from _any_ XM-L; I personally choose The XM-L LED for its flood (wall of light) capabilities. For throw, I have a Masterpiece PRO-1 and my ol' Tiablo A10; they'll both out throw any light compared in this thread, period.


As an example, I expected V20C to be a thrower, obviously it disappointed me
When people think about brightness, they usually hook it onto throwability
Sth like
Before purchase: Hey thats a 400lm, awesome man, lemme blow the mountain far there
After purchase: Wow this BS wont even shine over there
I think a torch is suppose to shine where you cant see but not acting like a camplight, like what i said on 2nd sentence.
This is my OWN opinion only so please dont argue about it
And then: If it doesnt throw far, why would i need an extra brightness, why wouldnt i just grab a cheapie close range light,isnt it


----------



## Toohotruk

Man, am I tempted to buy this light...I wish I had been aware of it before I bought my G2Xt and my 6PXp. I'm afraid the output of the Fury will kind of take away the reason to carry those lights, as well as all the other lights I have of that size (and I have a LOT of lights that size). But at the same time, the Fury is like a beautiful, sexy seductress calling my name...not sure I can resist. :naughty:


----------



## recDNA

Could I impose on one of you to measure the amps at the tailcap with the Fury on high with 2 x CR123?


----------



## jh333233

Im more interested with skipping the 15lm mode


----------



## Jonnyg7lus

Just a quick one I'm in the uk and the supplier here has said that on the defender model there is a resistor that can be accessed and changed around. This is a push fit and is designed to do this, it changes around the high/low setting. Has anyone checked to see if this is possible on the fury?


----------



## Glock 22

I wish I could find something that would change my fury to high/low I don't like the low mode first. It's for sure something to look into. If anyone finds something out let us know.


----------



## jh333233

GLOCK 22 said:


> I wish I could find something that would change my fury to high/low I don't like the low mode first. It's for sure something to look into. If anyone finds something out let us know.


The most possible choice is driver-swap
Surefire's modern LEDs have complicated circuit, ive seen others dissecting their LX2 and after i see the driver, i have no idea whats similar with those im using
And they have a very fine soldering like what you see on motherboard, very very very difficult to mod/bypass the driver


----------



## Glock 22

jh333233 said:


> The most possible choice is driver-swap
> Surefire's modern LEDs have complicated circuit, ive seen others dissecting their LX2 and after i see the driver, i have no idea whats similar with those im using
> And they have a very fine soldering like what you see on motherboard, very very very difficult to mod/bypass the driver


O.K. is there any way you can take a lux reading on the fury on high?


----------



## SuperTrouper

Surefire released a video showcasing the Fury yesterday on their YouTube channel just in case anyone missed it!


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

I went over to Supremeco in Hong Kong and handled the Fury for a couple of minutes. On the shelf, it doesn't look too much larger than the 6PX. The example on display did have the customary XM-L greenish brown fringe around the hotspot, readily apparent on high in the store lighting. My Fury on backorder should arrive in a few days I am told.

The Fury price in Hong Kong was about the same as retail price in the U.S. without a discount.

I also took some pictures of the 'shrine to PK' display case that has been in the store for years. It has some odd SF prototypes and PK special editions. I'm sure details of this display have been discussed here on CPF previously, I'll do some searching.


----------



## MCN

Getting back into flashlights after a few years of not paying too much attention, this thread triggered Flashlight Acquisition Syndrome and I ordered up one of these, which will take the place of my (Laser Products!) 9P. Can't wait


----------



## jh333233

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> I went over to Supremeco in Hong Kong and handled the Fury for a couple of minutes. On the shelf, it doesn't look too much larger than the 6PX. The example on display did have the customary XM-L greenish brown fringe around the hotspot, readily apparent on high in the store lighting. My Fury on backorder should arrive in a few days I am told.
> 
> The Fury price in Hong Kong was about the same as retail price in the U.S. without a discount.
> 
> I also took some pictures of the 'shrine to PK' display case that has been in the store for years. It has some odd SF prototypes and PK special editions. I'm sure details of this display have been discussed here on CPF previously, I'll do some searching.


That transparent cupboard is "Frozen Throne of Surefire", you can only see, but not touch
Everytime i visit 18F(The other name of supremeco in HKer, as it is on 18th floor), i take a look at it
Supremeco's price is SF's [MSRP*7.8], like buying it with US price with hongkong dollars


----------



## Stainz

I haven't been 'up to date' here on CPF in a while. I stopped at a locally owned sporting goods emporium - my 6PX Pro source. I was shocked to see new blister packed Surefires all over one display cabinet. The 'Fury' was rated at 500 L - and, if their history is to be believed, an accurate rating - not the Olight's 500L rating (~300-350L output). The shocker was the marked $159.99 - I thought it was a bargain - then, last night, I find out it's list is $155!. Add 10% s/t, and BJ looks pretty good - a little off and some SF CR-123's. Still, I was thankful for the opportunity of checking one out. I missed out on checking out it's anti-roll features - or lens material, which 'looked' like glass. I did put it on low - and pounded my fist as hard as I could against my other hand. Unlike my 6PX Pro, it never 'switched' to high. A total aside, but I wonder if that was ever fixed on the 6PX Pro??

My first reaction was... "Where is the heat sink??". Where the 6PX Pro is similar in size, it does have the precautionary 'Caution Hot Surface' on the lens barrel. I don't recall the mass of Al there on the Fury being much greater - or the label. The beam seemed neutral white - and well defined - no donut or excessive spill. I didn't leave it on high for long - didn't note much heat build up, unlike the 6PX Pro - at 40% the output. Seemed like a deal... I may return the first of the week to get one, should gluttony and impatience combine in a hideous manner... or BJ has them on back-order!

The S-F one CR123 headlamp I bought last year at that store was another complete shocker. I guess the real moral to this story is simple - I need to check in here at CPF a lot more often!

Stainz

PS That shop also bumps *up* their Christopher Reeves Knives.... I just _thought_ they were expensive!

*PPS Edited to add: B-J said one on the way - be here Friday. *_Now I remember why I eased off of CPF... it gets expensive! Thanks!_


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

> That transparent cupboard is "Frozen Throne of Surefire", you can only see, but not touch
> Everytime i visit 18F(The other name of supremeco in HKer, as it is on 18th floor), i take a look at it



Here's an earlier CPF thread on that interesting display case: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?242057-SupremeCo-in-HK



> Supremeco's price is SF's [MSRP*7.8], like buying it with US price with hongkong dollars



And they sometimes have SF products that are scarce or unavailable in the U.S., both newly announced and discontinued. I would have bought the SF Fury if I didn't already have one on order. Maybe I should have bought a spare anyway, right?:devil:


----------



## dan05gt

MCN said:


> Getting back into flashlights after a few years of not paying too much attention, this thread triggered Flashlight Acquisition Syndrome and I ordered up one of these, which will take the place of my (Laser Products!) 9P. Can't wait



I think you made a good choice. I just ordered one myself. I love Surefires - great reliability, simple UI, good value (some say expensive, but they warranty them forever so factoring that in, they are a great deal).


----------



## dan05gt

Bummer. I just found out my fury is back ordered until the 27th - BJ. Z2X is also back ordered - SF.


----------



## Stainz

I bragged too soon - B-J, after estimating delivery by Friday, e-mailed me today that they were 'OOS' - expected more 'Furys' by Friday. Oh well...

Stainz


----------



## freeride21a

dan05gt said:


> Bummer. I just found out my fury is back ordered until the 27th - BJ. Z2X is also back ordered - SF.



Ive been back-ordered since 12/27 for mine from B-J. Not b-j's fault but man I hate waiting LOL


----------



## leon2245

Yeah it's not like they can force SF to send them stock or anything, but batteryjunction might want to at least take the "usually ships next business day" availability status off their fury product page.. That's been there since they've been unavailable last month, and only creates frustration as more orders are placed. I'm sure they've figured what works best for them though, the percentage of people who end up waiting & canceled orders both don't cost them anything.


----------



## jh333233

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Here's an earlier CPF thread on that interesting display case: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?242057-SupremeCo-in-HK
> 
> 
> 
> And they sometimes have SF products that are scarce or unavailable in the U.S., both newly announced and discontinued. I would have bought the SF Fury if I didn't already have one on order. Maybe I should have bought a spare anyway, right?:devil:



There are lotta goodies like DCed surefire even after a long time of DC-announcement
T1A,E2e,A2,M2,M3,M6,U2,L4,L7,kroma,Rechargables (Some is gone already)

Btw, Fury is now selling @155 USD, same price as SF's MSRP


----------



## Stainz

Knowing I could drive across town and buy one - from stock - for ~$165 (w s/t) doesn't help matters. Finding out that they have been sold out since before 12-27 makes one think they are being disingenuous by continuing to advertise 'usually ships the next business day', as their site states now (9:47 AM CDT). My order, 1/15, was initially answered by an estimated shipping date of 1/18 - arriving 1/20. Silly me, I believed it. If I don't cancel, this would be my first order with them. I don't blame them for selling out - but they need to tell one - at the time of purchase - especially if they have been out of stock for a while. 

Stainz


----------



## jh333233

Just be patient on the waiting......
Somehow the situation is like iPhone to Fury and Apple to SF
The new and hot item is always wanted by people so there must be "temporarily sold out" for some time
At least ordering online, the order will be followed and a confirmed shipment day will be told
While searching it by yourself might possibly allows you to enjoy it earlier, but it makes you busy and sometime biting the dust


----------



## naked2

dan05gt said:


> I just ordered one myself. I love Surefires - great reliability, simple UI, good value (some say expensive, but they warranty them forever so factoring that in, they are a great deal).


Not all SureFire's are lifetime warrantied; my M600C states 6 months in the user manual. Can one of you Fury owners please verify the warranty? Also check to see if it is worded the same in the user manual as it is on the warranty card (if it came with one), or on the packaging.

For those with lights on back-order, try Spyder Tactical; they might have some, and their CPF discount is deeper than BatteryJunction's.


----------



## Glock 22

naked2 said:


> Not all SureFire's are lifetime warrantied; my M600C states 6 months in the user manual. Can one of you Fury owners please verify the warranty? Also check to see if it is worded the same in the user manual as it is on the warranty card (if it came with one), or on the packaging.
> 
> For those with lights on back-order, try Spyder Tactical; they might have some, and their CPF discount is deeper than BatteryJunction's.


Checked mine on the packaging it say's backed by surefire's no-hassle guarantee. Then on the warranty paper inside it say's lamps will burn out, batteries will be used up, and switches may eventually wear out, almost everything else is covered by our no-hassle warranty. For the lifetime of the original owner etc, if it is determined by us to be defective. It also came with a pretty cool surefire sticker. Hope this answered your question.


----------



## fyaman

Just ordered my first REAL flashlight! I was wondering though, and I can't find any info on it, does the Fury step down after a few minutes on high? I'm guessing and hoping not, since no one has posted anything about that.


----------



## naked2

GLOCK 22 said:


> Checked mine on the packaging it say's backed by surefire's no-hassle guarantee. Then on the warranty paper inside it say's lamps will burn out, batteries will be used up, and switches may eventually wear out, almost everything else is covered by our no-hassle warranty. For the lifetime of the original owner etc, if it is determined by us to be defective. It also came with a pretty cool surefire sticker. Hope this answered your question.


Did your Fury come with a "User Manual"? My M600C says the exact same things on the packaging/warranty card, but in the User Manual, it states: 

"SureFire warrants this product to be free from defect in workmanship and materials for a period of six (6) months from the date of purchase. 
At our discretion, we will replace or refund your original purchase price of this product if it is determined, by us, to be defective. Damage resulting from abuse, neglect, or altering this product from its original state is not covered."


----------



## Glock 22

naked2 said:


> Did your Fury come with a "User Manual"? My M600C says the exact same things on the packaging/warranty card, but in the User Manual, it states:
> 
> "SureFire warrants this product to be free from defect in workmanship and materials for a period of six (6) months from the date of purchase.
> At our discretion, we will replace or refund your original purchase price of this product if it is determined, by us, to be defective. Damage resulting from abuse, neglect, or altering this product from its original state is not covered."


It say's the same but there's nothing said about (6) months after date of purchase. It say's it's covered for the lifetime of the original owner, and this is on my User Manual that it came with. So it must be lifetime.


----------



## leon2245

Stainz said:


> Knowing I could drive across town and buy one - from stock - for ~$165 (w s/t) doesn't help matters. Finding out that they have been sold out since before 12-27 makes one think they are being disingenuous by continuing to advertise 'usually ships the next business day', as their site states now (9:47 AM CDT). My order, 1/15, was initially answered by an estimated shipping date of 1/18 - arriving 1/20. Silly me, I believed it. If I don't cancel, this would be my first order with them. I don't blame them for selling out - but they need to tell one - at the time of purchase - especially if they have been out of stock for a while.
> 
> Stainz



Yeah the wording is unfortunate, but technically only states "usually" (ie not always) ships next business day. Because I placed another order & the same happened as with the fury. Apparently with at least some of this stuff they have to order it themselves first, then receive it, before shipping it out to us. So you just have to plan for that going in, & if it's something you absolutely can't wait for, I'd recommend checking with BJ personally first to make sure they have the item on hand. That's what I'll do next time, assuming they'll still take an order from me again after being impatient & canceling my first two because of the delays.

And now my Fury's gone. High beam was super impressive but a little too bright for most of my use, & low beam a little too dim to keep me from jumping to high- something like the jetbeam bc25 would be ideal. Wish that were a SF.


----------



## Gladius01

I just received my SureFire P2X-B "Fury". For the size and 500 lumens, its a great flashlight. Very happy and already used it quite alot.


----------



## misterdudley

I just received my P2X Fury in the mail last night, purchased from fleabay seller for $146.00 plus 12.00 shipping. The brightness is just as advertised. By shining the flashlight into my hand, the reflection is even difficult to look at. I personally believe their advertisement of 500 lumens, very impressive especially for the compact size.


----------



## jh333233

Surefire built up a reputation of no-bluff output, despite they began to advertise OTF lumen, but still not bluffing
Not just because it is a USA brand and military supplier, but thats what us user seen


----------



## Gallain

Got my Fury yesterday. We received a couple for my store. Only tested it for half an hour but really like it. Managed to find my neighbours cat that ran away last night just fine... 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


----------



## ggreenjohny

I just got my fury and I was just wondering if anyone knew where I could get a case to fit it and an o-ring for the gap by the tail cap?


----------



## MicroE

What I would like is a 500-lumen Fury with a combat grip like the z2x. Does anybody know if you can Lego one together from parts?


----------



## Viper715

In the 2012 SF catalog is the ZM2 combat light. It is basically a 500 Luken Z2. Hopefully it comes to market.


----------



## fespo276

Viper715 said:


> In the 2012 SF catalog is the ZM2 combat light. It is basically a 500 Luken Z2. Hopefully it comes to market.



This will be the new standard in police duty lights, IMHO.


----------



## dano

fespo276 said:


> This will be the new standard in police duty lights, IMHO.



it's a tac light, not a duty light.


----------



## jh333233

You can use a tac light as duty light, but not in reverse
IMO these lights are quite good for LEO


----------



## Glock 22

ggreenjohny said:


> I just got my fury and I was just wondering if anyone knew where I could get a case to fit it and an o-ring for the gap by the tail cap?


Case that's a good question don't know of one right off hand, are you talking about a hard plastic case or on that you can wear on your belt, if that's what your looking for. Then surefire sells one it's the V21 nylon quick-detach holster it's on the surefire website. As for the o-ring lighthound sells all kinds of o-ring you may want to check them out, I'm sure they'll have what your looking for.


----------



## fresh eddie fresh

I got mine in over the weekend... it throws a little further than my M91, but does not have as much flood. I actually really like that the low comes on first. If I ever need high, I can always double tap the switch and it comes on. It was a steal at $124 shipped (after CPF discount) from Spyder Tactical.

Case wise, do you need it for a belt? It will fit in most 9mm mag pouches.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

> It was a steal at $*** shipped (after CPF discount) from Spyder Tactical.



Take a look at the 'Good Deals' section of the CPF Marketplace if you want to buy another one.:huh:

I also got my Fury from an authorized online dealer, it is a great light as everyone says. There is a little of the XM-L tint gradient across the beam, my example seems to have a smoother color blend than the display light in Hong Kong a few days ago. I suspect that very small differences in the location of the plane of the phosphor in the emitter package make visible changes to the beam tint when white wall hunting.

The Fury seems to run fine on an AW 17670, looks like there is room to bore it out for an 18650 if you can get it apart. No bump mode changing that I can see, just hope the clicky is fixed after some problems on early 6PX/G2X Pro models.

The lens on my Fury appears to be glass with a greenish anti-reflective coating.


----------



## Glock 22

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Take a look at the 'Good Deals' section of the CPF Marketplace if you want to buy another one.:huh:
> 
> I also got my Fury from an authorized online dealer, it is a great light as everyone says. There is a little of the XM-L tint gradient across the beam, my example seems to have a smoother color blend than the display light in Hong Kong a few days ago. I suspect that very small differences in the location of the plane of the phosphor in the emitter package make visible changes to the beam tint when white wall hunting.
> 
> The Fury seems to run fine on an AW 17670, looks like there is room to bore it out for an 18650 if you can get it apart. No bump mode changing that I can see, just hope the clicky is fixed after some problems on early 6PX/G2X Pro models.
> 
> The lens on my Fury appears to be glass with a greenish anti-reflective coating.


Do you seem to get the same burn time on the AW 17670 as to the 2 CR123A's, man that's awsome I will more than likely put one in mine.


----------



## Tommygun45

Fairly glad I held off on one of these. Just dropped to $108 from one of our retailers, before shipping of course. This is like when I dropped $127 on my M91 and then it was $85 the next day. Really kills my plans for trying and selling on the MP. Oh well. 

At least this might be a sign of all of those new Surefire's at SS being on the way. They also dropped the E2DL, G2X, x300, G2x, and 6PX Defender to all reasonable prices. Mostly their old prices but this is where they should be.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

> Do you seem to get the same burn time on the AW 17670 as to the 2 CR123A's, man that's awsome I will more than likely put one in mine.



I would imagine that the burn time will be less but I have run the 17670 on high for a while to make sure the light and battery don't get too warm. The AW battery is protected and it seems to run as it should. Some lights will cause a protected battery to shut down quickly from high current and overheating. I really like the single battery option if available when using rechargeables. The new LED's are reaching current levels of legacy incandescent lights and there is plenty of history here on CPF on the issues with multiple cell batteries and high current draw.


----------



## fresh eddie fresh

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Take a look at the 'Good Deals' section of the CPF Marketplace if you want to buy another one.:huh:



I wish I didn't see that... I am tempted to pick up another, but I will save my pennies for whatever the next surprise Surefire will be!


----------



## Robert_M

I got my P2X-B yesterday! Here's a comparison of the total light output of the Fury to the EagleTac P20C2 Mark II XM-L:









The larger size of the Fury keeps it cooler. As a result it maintains its total light output better. And there's no step down in light output! The "step" on the Fury's graph is when I switched it to its low setting; the EagleTac was kept on High until I turned it off.


----------



## scot

That's interesting. Any chance you could check the output with a 17670?


----------



## Robert_M

Unfortunately, I don't have a 17670 ...


----------



## Glock 22

I will be buying a AW 17670 for my fury. Thanks for the info Vox Clamatis in Deserto. :thumbsup:


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## jh333233

Omg, from the graph, surefire has underrated their lumen again!
IMO 17670 will not work at full output, i believe the driver is a buck one, like E2DL and LX2
And off-topicly, a single cell would having trouble with the boost-buck driver, it would keep switching between them or having some minor flashing


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

> And off-topicly, a single cell would having trouble with the boost-buck driver, it would keep switching between them or having some minor flashing



Izzat so?

Don't know if this light has the buckwheat driver or what, but it seems to me to work fine on a 17670. Doesn't seem to flash a bit as the battery runs down. Give it a try.:thumbsup:


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## jh333233

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Izzat so?
> 
> Don't know if this light has the buckwheat driver or what, but it seems to me to work fine on a 17670. Doesn't seem to flash a bit as the battery runs down. Give it a try.:thumbsup:


I meant Fury have buck driver, 3.7V should not give full output since it should be below working voltage


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## jh333233

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Izzat so?
> 
> Don't know if this light has the buckwheat driver or what, but it seems to me to work fine on a 17670. Doesn't seem to flash a bit as the battery runs down. Give it a try.:thumbsup:


OT again, V20C with 18650 @/around max output, sometime it will flash or having capacitor-charging sounds frequently
Lets keep this thread fury-only


----------



## Toohotruk

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Izzat so?
> 
> Don't know if this light has the buckwheat driver or what, but it seems to me to work fine on a 17670. Doesn't seem to flash a bit as the battery runs down. Give it a try.:thumbsup:


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## OrBy

I got my Fury last night. Wow... I like.

Some quick tests:

Two included Surefire CR123A's pulls 1.5A @ the tail on high - really bight 

One (older) AW 17670 pulls 1.5A @ the tail on high - still really bright but if you look at the numbers there is no way it can be as bright as two CR123A's. Running it like this for a few min does not seem to get the head as hot as running my L4 on this cell did. No flashing observed so far with my limited testing. Also it looks brighter then my 6P/M60 on two AW RCR123A's. I think this combo is my new reach out and blind some one/thing combo.

Two Tenergy LiFePo4 RCR123A's pulls 1.3A @ the tail on high - really bright but 1.3A is way over the spec'ed 500ma max of these cells and the 6.6v is over the 6.4v this light is expecting so I think it's a bad idea for long term use.

A few shirt buffs of the window shows no scratches so far and it feels/sounds like glass to me.

The low seems to take 25-35ma (unless I read my meter wrong) and is very eye friendly to already dark adapted eyes.

I think Surefire choose the right UI for this light at least for my uses.

My one complaint so far: I do think Surefire should have put just a little bit of scalloping on the bezel (like the L4).


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## jh333233

Thanks for the test Orby
1.3A to 16340 LiFePO4 isnt any problem as they can handle a larger current than LiCoO2
500ma-rated 16340 LiFePO4 doesnt seem usual because they should be rated at 1000mah


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## OrBy

jh333233 said:


> Thanks for the test Orby
> 1.3A to 16340 LiFePO4 isnt any problem as they can handle a larger current than LiCoO2
> 500ma-rated 16340 LiFePO4 doesnt seem usual because they should be rated at 1000mah



Np!

I thought the same thing as well but if you check the specs (http://www.batteryjunction.com/2rc375reliba.html) they are only 750mah and "Maximum discharging rate: < 550 mA" is listed. I normally trust LiFePO4 with fairly high currents (this just being a bit over 2C discharge rate) but since they are such small cells I think I will test them a bit more before going all out on em. I do have to wonder about the spec's because they say they are 3v but they top off at 3.3v like normal LiFePO4's and there is no protection or anything else on em... Perhaps a copy/paste error?


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## jh333233

"This stabilization of the redox energies also helps *fast ion migration*"
superior thermal and chemical stability (LiFePO4 to LiCoO2)
This is the comparison between LiCoO2 and LiFePO4
So IMO...... 550ma is just BS
Even LiCoO2 can go 2C
Btw, LiFePO4 is unlikely to explode due to its chemistry


----------



## OrBy

Oh I am not worried about the cells venting or it going boom. I just don't want the cells to loose capacity if it is overtaxing them as they are already fairly low mah. Also since they go to 6.6v witch is higher then the 6.4v Fury is expecting I don't want to risk smoking the driver in it. I already know that it's ramp'ing down the current due to the higher voltages with the short test I did with my meter. I just don't know if it's designed to do that for long runs.


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## sindekhan

Best Deal for a Surefire Tac Light I've ever seen money wise. If it had a strobe mode I'd be interested but only High and Low? I can find only 1 light that even has a strobe mode on Surefire's website. I don't understand that? They dominate the contracts for U.S. Government Agencies/Military/LE but no strobe modes? For many Tactical L/E applications I'd prefer a high output strobe mode, very useful IMO.


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## Viper715

I believe that the idea that strobe for tactical military and Leo applications has went the way of the dodo. Some may still like it and that's fine and there are plenty of lights out there that do it. But my opinion and more and
More that of the tactical community has went away from strobe use and to intermittent light use and move. The strobe can disorientated a user as well as the target also the target can become adapt or it effect them. Limited use of lighting and moving is more effective. 

That being said I don't like that it has two levels for tactical applications you can't really use a momentary technique it's either gonna be on or not. Still a good light at a good price and I may be picking one up at the current sale price.


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## pjandyho

sindekhan said:


> Best Deal for a Surefire Tac Light I've ever seen money wise. If it had a strobe mode I'd be interested but only High and Low? I can find only 1 light that even has a strobe mode on Surefire's website. I don't understand that? They dominate the contracts for U.S. Government Agencies/Military/LE but no strobe modes? For many Tactical L/E applications I'd prefer a high output strobe mode, very useful IMO.


The Fury was never built to be a tactical light. If it is it wouldn't come on in low output first. It was meant for general usage like trekking, camping, and day to day use.

EDIT: Oh and by the way, Z2-S Combatlight, M3LT-S Combatlight, and UB3T Invictus does have strobe.


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

> If it had a strobe mode I'd be interested but only High and Low? I can find only 1 light that even has a strobe mode on Surefire's website. I don't understand that?



Looking at the 2012 SF catalog, some of the models with with strobe mode are: UDR, UBR, UNR, UN3, R1, R2, UB3T, M3LT-S and Z2-S. I believe the last three are already widely available, the others may be released in the months to come.


----------



## sindekhan

OK I guess I should've said for *specific* L/E applications. I wouldn't imply or advise using a strobe for general, basic tactical use, however there's a place in certain L/E situations where it's very useful to have and I'm not referring to anything where intermittent light use and moving applies. As far as Military applications on missions I don't really see much use for a strobe on a Tac Light at all, you could never use it clearing buildings and the only other time a strobe would be used that I can think of off hand is I.R. to signal your own air support usually as to NOT vaporize you.

-Also, didn't realize all those 2012 models had strobes, just by checking the strobe box on the options part of Surefire website, 1 result comes up. Anyhow, the size + high output of the PX2 but designed for Tactical and with a strobe mode would be ideal for me, if they ever make anything like that, then I'll be interested... unless I'm totally missing something that they do currently make...? I thought I've looked over all their models at this point..


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## Dingle1911

I think it is getting off topic, but the UB3T Invictus has a stobe that is activated with the selector ring, and the M3LT-S has one too, the S stands for strobe. According to their website, the Z2-S also has a strobe. 

Back on topic, I am still waiting for my Fury. It is on back order. I do not consider the Fury a tactical or self defense light. The two modes with the double click UI kick it out of the tactical camp in my opinion. If it had a 2 stage tailcap where you pushed slightly for 15 lumens then continued to press for 500 lumens I would consider it a tactical light and I would also like that UI better. But I purchased the light to have a a $108 500 lumen light supported by a company with a life time warranty. I am hoping the new DM2 defender is actually released and that I can afford one with the 2 stage tactical tail cap.

SF please make Furys quickly so I can play with mine like everyone else.


----------



## pjandyho

Dingle1911 said:


> but the UB3T Invictus has a stobe that is activated by three quick presses,


UB3T's strobe is accessed by rotating the output dial all the way pass Max output, not by 3 quick presses. The 3 quick presses are for the M3LT-S and Z2-S.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

> Anyhow, the size + high output of the PX2 but designed for Tactical and with a strobe mode would be ideal for me, if they ever make anything like that, then I'll be interested... unless I'm totally missing something that they do currently make...? I thought I've looked over all their models at this point..



A couple of other two CR123A XM-L lights that I have with strobe mode are a Four Seven's Quark 123-2 Turbo X and a SureFire C2 with a Nailbender XM-L dropin. Both are very comparable in brightness to the SF Fury to my eye.

The Fury has the largest reflector and tightest hotspot in the beam of these three lights. I'm thinking I bought the Nailbender dropin as a three mode XM-L light module. I was checking the action on a SF Z48 tailcap I added to the C2 and somehow it seems I reprogrammed the Nailbender to five modes including strobe and SOS.

A SF UB3T has a much brighter appearing hotspot than any of these other lights, it has the large optic in the head and very little spill so almost everything is concentrated in the hotspot.


----------



## kyhunter1

Just got my Fury yesterday and my opinion that it is a awesome light has not changed. The beam and tint on mine are flawless. GLOCK22's Fury had more pronounced tint shift toward green on lo mode, but really nice on high. 


GLOCK22 got a lux meter today, so we are having some fun this evening. So.... some lux numbers for you all to look at. This is unscientific but useful info anyhow. The readings were took at a distance of ~ 1 meter + or - a few cm. 



My Fury on 2x123's 10000 Lux AW17650 9600 Lux


GLOCK22's Fury: 9900 Lux 9700 Lux


The difference in the readings suggest that the Fury is almost as bright on the 17650 as 123's which is a big plus. Further tests are planned to see how the Fury does with the 17650 over extended time.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

> The difference in the readings suggest that the Fury is almost as bright on the 17650 as 123's which is a big plus. Further tests are planned to see how the Fury does with the 17650 over extended time.



That sure correlates with my experience. I can't see the difference in brightness between CR123A's and the 17650 in my light. I would imagine the rechargeables would drop off in brightness quicker with the lower starting voltage.

I carry a li-ion charger when I travel and some CR123A's for backup in case of earthquake, Y3K, the commies cross the border (e.g. Taipei and Seoul), typhoon or whatever. I realize that using rechargeables in a SF voids the warranty, makes you go blind, etc. (unless they are the new SF rechargeable batteries in which case they are suddenly OK:thumbsup.

As others have noticed, the low level on the Fury is nice for runtime and preserving night vision. It is plenty to walk in the dark with high a click away to evaluate something lurking in the dark distance.

I do wish the Fury had a slide on clip to keep it from rolling off a table. The flat surfaces in the head don't seem to slow it down much when it's headed for a drop test onto a tile floor. Also, I hope the thermal protection is enough to prevent a mishap if the light turns on when put in a carry-on bag or briefcase. I try to remember to lockout the tailcap when I pack the light but sometimes I forget. These new high power LED's put out a lot of heat, which has to go somewhere.


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## Tana

LAPG is sure making this light VERY DESIRABLE right now...


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## SikDMAX

Not when they are backordered on them... probably a month out


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## jh333233

Why wouldnt you try looking at local dealers
Surefire's lights are readily available here


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## naked2

Local dealers charge full retail; online dealers give CPF discount, and usually no tax or shipping as well.


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## fresh eddie fresh

sindekhan said:


> -Also, didn't realize all those 2012 models had strobes, just by checking the strobe box on the options part of Surefire website, 1 result comes up. Anyhow, the size + high output of the PX2 but designed for Tactical and with a strobe mode would be ideal for me, if they ever make anything like that, then I'll be interested... unless I'm totally missing something that they do currently make...? I thought I've looked over all their models at this point..



If you can find an AZ2-S, it might be just what you are looking for. They discontinued them last year, so if you can find one, you can get a heck of a deal. 
http://www.surefire.com/AZ2-S?&search_id=3223956


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## flourite

I just got one of these at Turners, and this thing is AWESOME. The build quality is superb and fits the hand perfectly. I was thinking as a perfect complement to this is a Quark X 1232 XM-L. The surefire is more throwy vs the quark's wall of light flood. Cheers


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## Glock 22

Here is a couple of beamshots I took of kyhunter1's new fury. One is an 100 yard pic and the other is an 80 yard shot. Look at the white sign in the middle of pic that's what we was shooting at.

White sign in the middle is 100 yards.






White sign in in the middle is 80 yards.


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## naked2

Wish I could see those same shots with your G25C2; ...but you had to go and sell it! :ironic:


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## Glock 22

naked2 said:


> Wish I could see those same shots with your G25C2; ...but you had to go and sell it! :ironic:


Yeah dummy me, there is a pic of it on another thread that I posted that may help. But I believe you already seen them. I believe kyhunter1's fury is brighter than mine and don't have the greenish tint mine does and his has a better throw than mine. All in all his is much better than mine.


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## varmint

I just returned from the Mesquite Texas Gun Show and saw my 1st Fury SF light. $129.00, he had 2 for sale.


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## kyhunter1

The pics came out better than I thought they would. The beam quality on mine makes the $149.00 price tag easier to swallow since the price was lowered. As far as being brighter, I would not think so. If it is, not by much. 



GLOCK 22 said:


> Yeah dummy me, there is a pic of it on another thread that I posted that may help. But I believe you already seen them. I believe kyhunter1's fury is brighter than mine and don't have the greenish tint mine does and his has a better throw than mine. All in all his is much better than mine.


----------



## naked2

GLOCK 22 said:


> Yeah dummy me, there is a pic of it on another thread that I posted that may help. But I believe you already seen them. I believe kyhunter1's fury is brighter than mine and don't have the greenish tint mine does and his has a better throw than mine. All in all his is much better than mine.


Well then I guess there is at least one good reason to buy from a local retailer (despite no discount!) instead of an online dealer; you can check the tint before you buy. Too bad B&M stores don't offer a CPF discount!


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## Glock 22

Just ordered some AW 17670 protected batteries and that's what I'm going to run in my fury and see how it hold up.


----------



## Mikellen

Is the battery tube on the Fury larger than the 6PX or G2X? 
I had a couple of the G2Xs and one 6PX and neither would fit a 17670 battery.

Ha anyone not been able to fit a 17670 battery in the Fury?


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## kyhunter1

AW17650's fits perfectly in my Fury. Slides in and out easily.


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## Stainz

The Fury I had on order from our CPF discounter, supposedly shipped 1/15, was backordered then - actually, pre-Christmas, as I found out here. My first order with them, I was a bit miffed, but the nice lady said their order taking on the web had no real time inventory. The estimated delivery date of 1/27 came - and a call to them Friday reveals a new S-F delivery date - 2/10! The worst part is that my local dealer is where I first learned of the Fury 1/14, having been in a CPF vacuum for a bit. At any rate - he had them- a stack of them - for $160 - no discounts. I had intended to get my son one for his b'day (1/27), but that store would be it. As I already had him something else - and would see him today - I returned to my local source. I got OTD for $152 w s/t - and now have him an alternative to my alternative. If he elects to keep the alternative, I guess I have me a Fury... and can cancel that back order. If he wants the Fury... well, I'll have one for a few bucks less - eventually. I'll report back on my review. I hope it's not a bump-sensitive light intensity setting, a la my 6PX Pro, but brighter version of said 6PX Pro. I wonder why S-F's inventory is so slow to refill... did they not expect big sales?

Stainz


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## Alex1234

Wow this surfire fury is only 108.50 on battery Junction. Why the big price drop?


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## D_for_David

wow 108. thats cheap. and theres 5% off with the coupon code which pretty much takes care of shipping. thats awesome


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## Rocky1927

I've seen several mentions of a CPF discount or coupon code. I'm about to order another Fury from BJ and would like to know how one goes about getting this discount.
Thanks!
(Please excuse the "newby". I did try searching for it but was overwhelmed by the multitude of hits.)


----------



## Alex1234

Discussion of CPF discounted codes is restricted to "CPF Specials" webpages/dealers  - Norm


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## Rocky1927

Thanks, Alex! I'll try that right now.:thumbsup:


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## Rocky1927

It worked!  Thanks, again!

Now the waiting begins, but if it is the same as my first Fury it will be worth it. :devil:


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## Tana

Well, it's not just BatteryJunction offering these for outstanding price... LAPG has pretty much ALL models on lowered prices...

I wonder if this pricing is temporary or not... I hope it ISN'T as I already ordered E1B two days ago from them and if pricing stays like this, my wallet is going to suffer FOR SURE in 2012...


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## wbrock001

Yes! Just got an email from LAPG that the Fury is down to $108. They're majorly discounting the lights probably to clear stock for the hopeful surge of new lights! Woo hoo 2012 may be a banner year for photons!


----------



## Stainz

That's a great price - if you don't mind waiting until who knows when. The Furys are on back-order at LAPG right now - expected in February (LAPG's CS person Allie said '... expected in February.' during my call today. B-J 'thinks' their pre-Christmas back-order will be filled 2/10 - I wouldn't hold my breath on either.). I cancelled my B-J backorder as I have one - bought locally ($152 w s/t... but I inspected it before purchase.). It is easily discernibly brighter, and has a larger central spot, than my 'rated' 500 Lumen Olight M21 Warrior. Very similar beam to the 6PX Pro I have. Despite some hard strikes, while held in my fist, no change from low to high, a la my 6PX Pro. I am impressed!


Stainz


----------



## Outlander

kyhunter1 said:


> AW17650's fits perfectly in my Fury. Slides in and out easily.



Sorry for the newb question, but can AW17650's be run in Surefire's safely? I have a 6PX Pro that I would love to run rechargables in.


----------



## wadamt16

wbrock001 said:


> Yes! Just got an email from LAPG that the Fury is down to $108. They're majorly discounting the lights probably to clear stock for the hopeful surge of new lights! Woo hoo 2012 may be a banner year for photons!



They're discounting the Fury?!?! How come?? I was plan to buy it in a few months... Now I'm thinking about getting this flashlight this week... Or should I just wait for the other model come out? Are the newer models much better than the Fury?


----------



## naked2

The Fury is the newest model SureFire has to offer.


----------



## kyhunter1

It's not recommended by Surefire. A single 17650 is at 4.2 volts max, and 2 x 123 primaries is at 6 volts. There is no real reason why you could not as long as the cell fits nicely. What you dont need to do is put two rcr123's (8.4 volts) in it, as it may be over voltage. The overhead max voltages are not made known to the public by Surefire so it is better to err on the side of caution. 





Outlander said:


> Sorry for the newb question, but can AW17650's be run in Surefire's safely? I have a 6PX Pro that I would love to run rechargables in.


----------



## Outlander

kyhunter1 said:


> It's not recommended by Surefire. A single 17650 is at 4.2 volts max, and 2 x 123 primaries is at 6 volts. There is no real reason why you could not as long as the cell fits nicely. What you dont need to do is put two rcr123's (8.4 volts) in it, as it may be over voltage. The overhead max voltages are not made known to the public by Surefire so it is better to err on the side of caution.



Thanks for the help!


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## LumensMaximus

Got mine last week, whoever called it "a pocket searchlight", you spoke the truth... :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## kyhunter1

Here is a quick video of my new Fury. Just checking to see how good my cameras does with videos and flashlights. I plan to do more later. 


http://s548.photobucket.com/albums/...light pics/?action=view&current=Furyvideo.mp4


----------



## Hitthespot

wbrock001 said:


> Yes! Just got an email from LAPG that the Fury is down to $108. They're majorly discounting the lights probably to clear stock for the hopeful surge of new lights! Woo hoo 2012 may be a banner year for photons!



While I wouldn't know first hand, I have been told that SureFire has restructured their pricing on many lights and that's why you will see a price drop on many lights at most dealers. The Fury has dropped to under 110 and the M3TL has dropped from 575 to under 300 already at most dealers.

It is a great time to be a SureFire lover. I just picked up a M3LT-S and waiting for my local dealer to receive the Fury which should be in tomorrow!


----------



## Retinator

Ya, I just got my Invictus at the higher price. I'm still very happy with it but ouch. 
Now I know the pain of the early adopters of the 1st batch of M3LTs (400 instead of 800 lumens).

Either Surefire is already upgrading the entire new X-series or they've hurt demand with the price jump (55 - 100+, something like that,can't remember exactly)


----------



## jimbo-tron

Can someone clarify the mode switching before I pull the trigger on one of these. I understand that the first half-press is low and a second half-press is high but beyond that does it keep switching modes with each half-press or does it stay in high mode (for manual strobe purposes) for each half-press until the light is switched off for a few seconds? 

Thanks. 

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk


----------



## jh333233

Retinator said:


> Ya, I just got my Invictus at the higher price. I'm still very happy with it but ouch.
> Now I know the pain of the early adopters of the 1st batch of M3LTs (400 instead of 800 lumens).
> 
> Either Surefire is already upgrading the entire new X-series or they've hurt demand with the price jump (55 - 100+, something like that,can't remember exactly)


Price rise again, M3LT raised from 375 to 395
Invitus raised from 525 to 550
M6LT is now 425 (i forgot original price)


----------



## Glock 22

jimbo-tron said:


> Can someone clarify the mode switching before I pull the trigger on one of these. I understand that the first half-press is low and a second half-press is high but beyond that does it keep switching modes with each half-press or does it stay in high mode (for manual strobe purposes) for each half-press until the light is switched off for a few seconds?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk


The first press is the low mode then the second press is the high mode, and yes it does keep switching back and forth with each press from low to high. And there is no strobe mode on this light. This is an awsome light, it will be money well spent you want go wrong buying this light but be sure it's what you totally want, check out the video that kyhunter1 posted on post #432 and you can tell a little more of what your getting just click on the link he has there. Hope this helps


----------



## jimbo-tron

GLOCK 22 said:


> The first press is the low mode then the second press is the high mode, and yes it does keep switching back and forth with each press from low to high. And there is no strobe mode on this light. This is an awsome light, it will be money well spent you want go wrong buying this light but be sure it's what you totally want, check out the video that kyhunter1 posted on post #432 and you can tell a little more of what your getting just click on the link he has there. Hope this helps



Thanks, that really helps. I will probably still give this light a shot but I was hoping that the UI only gave you one shot with the low setting. I will check that video out as well, thanks again! 

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk


----------



## Dr. Strangelove

This video demonstrates the UI.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4xxUKew30c


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## pjandyho

Dr. Strangelove said:


> This video demonstrates the UI.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4xxUKew30c


When I look at the sweetheart in the video, my concentrate is lost on the Fury. Isn't she sweet? Ok, apologies on the OT.


----------



## Hitthespot

Well I jusr received mine. I must say I am pleasantly suprised. The size is much smaller than I expected, yet it gives a very nice mixture of throw and spill. Im sure this will very quickly become a favorite light of mine. Now, I realize that SureFires are military and men in blue driven in design, but if we can just convince SureFire that the non-tactical user would really, really love a middle setting, say around 140 lumens with 4-7 hours run time.


Edit: I just got a chance to compare outside the Olight M20 s2, Fenix tk21, and the fury. The Fury wins handsdown. Much better beam than either competitor. Brighter hotspot than the TK21, with more spill to boot. 

Good job to the design team Paul, home run!


Bill


----------



## Hitthespot

pjandyho said:


> When I look at the sweetheart in the video, my concentrate is lost on the Fury. Isn't she sweet? Ok, apologies on the OT.



I had to laugh when I read this. Your not a true flashaholic, or that beautiful flashlight would have completely erased the girl from your mind. Lol......


----------



## Tommygun45

Price rise? Invictus dropped to 385 at lapg. 277 for m3lt and 299 for m6lt

126 for E2LAA.. among others.



jh333233 said:


> Price rise again, M3LT raised from 375 to 395
> Invitus raised from 525 to 550
> M6LT is now 425 (i forgot original price)


----------



## ganymede

Easy there Andy! Lol!



pjandyho said:


> When I look at the sweetheart in the video, my concentrate is lost on the Fury. Isn't she sweet? Ok, apologies on the OT.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

> When I look at the sweetheart in the video, my concentrate is lost on the Fury. Isn't she sweet? Ok, apologies on the OT.



No shortage of talent in your town Andy, I can 'shop' for hours in those malls on Orchard Road...:devil:


----------



## Tana

It seems that LAPG might keep this pricing in the future, considering that they removed "free batteries" and "free shipping" as other sites that have to keep prices retail but compensating with free stuff... now it's CHEAPER but you get no extra batteries and you add shipping... rather fair, if you ask me... Already ordered one more E1B, couldn't resist that price change...


----------



## TheSteve

Received my Fury today. I love the total light out, tint is so/so. I'd prefer it with knurling and the scallops in the front bezel but for the price its a great light. If Surefire can make this where is my updated version of the U2 with 500+ lumens? I thought I was going to have to quickly sell my original M6CB but with a Willie Hunt LVR rechargeable battery pack and 500 lumen bulb it still blows the Fury away.


----------



## tab665

sorry to take this a little off topic, but when did the prices drop to where you can save HUNDREDS of dollars on the invictus, m3lt and m6lt? the invictus is now 385 bucks on one dealers website.


----------



## Robert_M

Only within the last few weeks! SureFire's website still doesn't reflect the new pricing.


----------



## NeonLights

I got an email from Brightguy today that they also lowered the price of the Fury (to $108) and they have them in stock. I couldn't resist any longer, so I pulled the trigger. Since they are in the same state, I will hopefully have it by the weekend. Can't wait!


----------



## eyeeatingfish

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Brightguy has the fury for $108


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Here may be of some interest. I tried this with two separate AW 17670 Protected Rechargeables that was charged in my Pila charger. The first battery ran for 43 minutes before cutting dead off. The second battery ran for 45 minutes before cutting dead off. I also took lux readings at so many minutes apart before they shut off, if anybody wants those readings just let me know and I'll post them. This is what I'm going to run in my fury, it may save a few buck in the long run on buying batteries.


----------



## flourite

How long did it stay at 500 lumens for?


----------



## Glock 22

flourite said:


> How long did it stay at 500 lumens for?


Around 35 to 38 minutes. I also tried a third AW 17670 Protected Rechargeable different from the other two I tried. I got 47 minutes of run time but on this battery at the 45 minute mark, it dropped to the lo mode. The other two batteries did'nt do that, so it's staying around the 40 minute mark on burn time.


----------



## mcoccia

I have a fury that will not consistently change from low to high mode. At times it takes two or three presses to achieve high. At the new reduced price I have decided to get a second fury. I now have outstanding orders with both Battery Junction and Brighguy. Brightguy are claiming 10 days delivery whereas Battery Junction are in the order of 4 weeks.


----------



## Norm

If you find your post has been deleted or edited please see post 420 for the explanation - Norm


----------



## JetskiMark

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Were the lux readings with the 17670 the same as with the primaries?

Do you think that there is enough material to bore it to fit an 18650?

I would definitely buy one if I could run a 3100mAh 18650. Imagine the runtime.



GLOCK 22 said:


> Here may be of some interest. I tried this with two separate AW 17670 Protected Rechargeables that was charged in my Pila charger. The first battery ran for 43 minutes before cutting dead off. The second battery ran for 45 minutes before cutting dead off. I also took lux readings at so many minutes apart before they shut off, if anybody wants those readings just let me know and I'll post them. This is what I'm going to run in my fury, it may save a few buck in the long run on buying batteries.


----------



## Glock 22

Have you checked with Surefire about your warranty on it, before buying another. They should fix it or send you a new one the way backorders are your going to have to wait anyway.



mcoccia said:


> I have a fury that will not consistently change from low to high mode. At times it takes two or three presses to achieve high. At the new reduced price I have decided to get a second fury. I now have outstanding orders with both Battery Junction and Brighguy. Brightguy are claiming 10 days delivery whereas Battery Junction are in the order of 4 weeks.


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: Surefire Fury*

The primaries had a 1000 lux more than the 17670, tough question I believe it would be cutting it awful close on the bore to the 18650. The run time would be awsome.




JetskiMark said:


> Were the lux readings with the 17670 the same as with the primaries?
> 
> Do you think that there is enough material to bore it to fit an 18650?
> 
> I would definitely buy one if I could run a 3100mAh 18650. Imagine the runtime.


----------



## youreacrab

mcoccia said:


> I have a fury that will not consistently change from low to high mode. At times it takes two or three presses to achieve high. At the new reduced price I have decided to get a second fury. I now have outstanding orders with both Battery Junction and Brighguy. Brightguy are claiming 10 days delivery whereas Battery Junction are in the order of 4 weeks.



thought the same thing was happening with mine. turns out it just needs a very fast double click to change modes. I like this because unintentional mode changes are less likely.


----------



## mcoccia

youreacrab said:


> thought the same thing was happening with mine. turns out it just needs a very fast double click to change modes. I like this because unintentional mode changes are less likely.[/
> 
> It's when I first use the flashlight that I have the problem even with an aggressive double click. Once it's been running for a while it is usually fine. You are right about the fury requiring a fast double click. This is quite different to the other Surefires that I have acquired in the last two months.
> 
> I emailed Surefire about the problem but to date no response. The switching is not a huge issue and in all other respects it's an awesome flashlight. At the new reduced price I couldn't resist buying another.


----------



## jh333233

People always complaint about the long delivery time for online dealers, let me have some guess on such a long delivery time
The golden rule: Bulky order means cheaper
If they say "4 weeks of delivery" then they might be stocking up orders so that they could order a larger batch from Surefire to get a cheaper price without storing the light themselves, which is costful, warehouse rent, delivery, stocking unwelcomed light without ppl buying it


----------



## eyeeatingfish

To the Fury Owners:

Will these flashlights accept drop in upgrades like the 6Ps? As I understand it the new 6PX series still accepts the same drop ins so I am wondering if I purchase a Fury will I be able to use the light to host other LED drop ins when flashlights reach 1000 lumens or 2000 lumens on this size package or perhaps the same lumens but with a smaller LED so there is better throw?

I do not have a 6P but I was thinking about getting the 6PX since they are only about $80 now and they can accept drop ins making them useful for years to come.


----------



## jh333233

eyeeatingfish said:


> To the Fury Owners:
> 
> Will these flashlights accept drop in upgrades like the 6Ps? As I understand it the new 6PX series still accepts the same drop ins so I am wondering if I purchase a Fury will I be able to use the light to host other LED drop ins when flashlights reach 1000 lumens or 2000 lumens on this size package or perhaps the same lumens but with a smaller LED so there is better throw?
> 
> I do not have a 6P but I was thinking about getting the 6PX since they are only about $80 now and they can accept drop ins making them useful for years to come.


New Surefire LED prefer having the bezel glued to the body so as far as i know, it is a no


----------



## Size15's

SureFire's P2X-B like their other current "X-type" handhelds has the bezel sealed to the body. The LED and driver are integrated into the bezel. No user accessible or replaceable components.


----------



## naked2

In other words, SureFire is trending towards Apple's philosophy of "buy our products to use them the way we want you to use them, or don't buy them at all". I'm trending towards the latter with SureFire; I already don't buy Apple.


----------



## Size15's

There has been much discussion of the design of the X-type handhelds in a long, and long-established thread. Perhaps its better to go back over old ground to see whether further discussion here would be going back over old ground.


----------



## eyeeatingfish

Hmmm this makes me less inclined to get a Fury. A coworker just ordered one though. I was under the impression that the 6PX could upgrade the led module.... thats a bummer.

I was thinking maybe the fury as a shotgun or rifle light.


----------



## jh333233

T20CS or this one throws better?


----------



## coyote

Robert_M said:


>



i'm confused by this chart which appears to show a *runtime on high of less than 5 minutes*, yet surefire claims 1.5 hours on high.

what am i missing????


----------



## naked2

That isn't a run-time chart; it's a "total light output" chart. He switched it to low after 4.6 minutes.


----------



## Ki113rMi113r

Does any one know how long will the price decrease will last for the G2x pro and Fury?


----------



## Robert_M

*coyote*, some people (including me) were wondering if there was a step down in light output just after 3 minutes like some other manufacturers do such as EagleTac. I didn't observe any step down in the Fury. I switched the Fury to its low setting at 4.6 minutes. I haven't done a runtime test ... yet.


----------



## naked2

Ki113rMi113r said:


> Does any one know how long will the price decrease will last for the G2x pro and Fury?


From what I read in GoingGear's newsletter, this is an across-the-board price restructure by SureFire, announced at the recent SHOT show; not a temporary or "sale" price. I wonder if it was due to a lack of sales because of the exorbitant prices originally charged for their latest models.


----------



## Ki113rMi113r

naked2 said:


> From what I read in GoingGear's newsletter, this is an across-the-board price restructure by SureFire, announced at the recent SHOT show; not a temporary or "sale" price. I wonder if it was due to a lack of sales because of the exorbitant prices originally charged for their latest models.



I bet it was because of the lack of sales because people were going to different companies to get more lumens for alot less money.


----------



## coyote

Robert_M said:


> *coyote*, some people (including me) were wondering if there was a step down in light output just after 3 minutes like some other manufacturers do such as EagleTac. I didn't observe any step down in the Fury. I switched the Fury to its low setting at 4.6 minutes. I haven't done a runtime test ... yet.



thnx guys. i'm not electrically inclined and need all the help i can get.


----------



## seattlite

Did anyone try 2 x 3.7v RCR123's yet? When the E2DL's and LX2's came out folks speculated that 2 x 3.7V RCR's will not work but when I got my copies, the very first thing that I did was to pop in the RCR's and they worked without any issues. Anyone try 3.7v RCR's in their Fury's yet?


----------



## Hitthespot

seattlite said:


> Did anyone try 2 x 3.7v RCR123's yet? When the E2DL's and LX2's came out folks speculated that 2 x 3.7V RCR's will not work but when I got my copies, the very first thing that I did was to pop in the RCR's and they worked without any issues. Anyone try 3.7v RCR's in their Fury's yet?



I'm too scared. Let mikey try, he likes it.


----------



## Glock 22

I would'nt dare try the 2 x 3.7v RCR123's in mine. I believe it would have too many volt's and fry it. I'll stick with the 17670 it works just fine, but who know's it may fry it also. If someone does try the 2 x 3.7v RCR123's I would like to know the outcome.


----------



## naked2

I have a 200 lumen KX2C head I've used with 1x 18350, 1x 17670, 2x CR123A, and 2x 16340; all with no issues. It is brighter with two cells (primary or LiIon); I don't know by how much, as I have no way to test. 

Although its electronics would probably not fry, the problem with using 2x 16340 in a Fury, is that it would probably draw more than the max possible safe amperage (+/-1.5A) that a 16340 could provide. It may be in here already, as this thread is quite long now, but has anyone done a tailcap current reading on a Fury yet?


----------



## jh333233

naked2 said:


> I have a 200 lumen KX2C head I've used with 1x 18350, 1x 17670, 2x CR123A, and 2x 16340; all with no issues. It is brighter with two cells (primary or LiIon); I don't know by how much, as I have no way to test.
> 
> Although its electronics would probably not fry, the problem with using 2x 16340 in a Fury, is that it would probably draw more than the max possible safe amperage (+/-1.5A) that a 16340 could provide. It may be in here already, as this thread is quite long now, but has anyone done a tailcap current reading on a Fury yet?


By P=VI
When power remains the same(brightness)
More voltage result in less current drawn
As well as less voltage drop across resistance


----------



## naked2

seattlite said:


> Did anyone try 2 x 3.7v RCR123's yet? When the E2DL's and LX2's came out folks speculated that 2 x 3.7V RCR's will not work but when I got my copies, the very first thing that I did was to pop in the RCR's and they worked without any issues. Anyone try 3.7v RCR's in their Fury's yet?


I searched this thread again; OrBy posted tailcap current test results in post #386, but none for 2x 3.7V; try at your own risk!


----------



## nathan225

*shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*

I have been thinking about getting this light and love surefire and have several surefire lights and love that it is 500 lumens but am a little uneasy about it having a plastic lens on a high end light because all of my other high end lights have glass and I am afraid that it would get scratched and start looking bad because that happens on other cheaper lights that I own . so what do you guys think


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*

Mine sure seems to have a glass lens unlike my 6PX's and G2x's. Anyway, check out the long thread here about this light, I like it at the 'new' price.


----------



## Dr. Strangelove

They use a 6PX Pro body and tail cap with a new 500L head. Nice balance between flood and throw. Very rugged and solid feeling. The SureFire website says polycarbonate lens but I'm sure it's glass. If it really is polycarbonate, don't worry because it must be the best polycarbonate on the world. I'm sure you'll love it!

Check out the thread about it, but it'll take you a couple of hours because it's really long...


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*

:shakeheadIt's a great light, but as for all the one's who say it has a glass lens. I had mine out the other night and dropped it about the length of one foot into some soft mud and when I picked it up the lens was scratched, so from this mishap the lens is plastic! Glass would not have scratched that easy. It is a pretty deep scratch, it catches on my fingernail when I move it across the lens. But it's still worth buying.


----------



## Glock 22

As for all the one's who say it has a glass lens. I had mine out the other night and dropped it about the length of one foot into some soft mud and when I picked it up the lens was scratched, so from this mishap the lens is plastic! Glass would not have scratched that easy. It is a pretty deep scratch, it catches on my fingernail when I move it across the lens.


----------



## Flashlight Dave

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*

As for if you should by it I personally don't like the look of the new lights. Its something sorta like deal extreme looking to me. I am sure the quality is still surefire's but I am waiting for the POSSIBLE release of the LX2U


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*

That LX2U would be awsome if they do release it, I've see a couple of places on the web with it on there site. It's one I really want!




Flashlight Dave said:


> As for if you should by it I personally don't like the look of the new lights. Its something sorta like deal extreme looking to me. I am sure the quality is still surefire's but I am waiting for the POSSIBLE release of the LX2U


----------



## enomosiki

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*

LX2 Ultra and EB1 Tactical are very high on my DO WANT list.


----------



## Hitthespot

I'm looking at mine while I'm reading your post and find it hard to believe this is a plastic lens. It looks and feels like glass to me. The anti-reflective coatings look like their on glass also. Maybe when you dropped it in the mud it hit some stones, or maybe the scratch was already there and you didn't notice it until you picked it up out of the mud. Who knows. I'm not doubting your word it's just that it looks pretty rugged to me.

Maybe Surefire will replace it under warranty.


----------



## Size15's

The Fury's project manager at SureFire says it is a polycarbonate window, NOT glass.


----------



## Glock 22

The scratch was not there before I dropped it, I mean from a foot away and it did'nt fall hard just a simple slip out of my hands and it did'nt hit any stones or rocks because I looked good where I dropped it. And surefire said they would replace the lens, this really happened.





Hitthespot said:


> I'm looking at mine while I'm reading your post and find it hard to believe this is a plastic lens. It looks and feels like glass to me. The anti-reflective coatings look like their on glass also. Maybe when you dropped it in the mud it hit some stones, or maybe the scratch was already there and you didn't notice it until you picked it up out of the mud. Who knows. I'm not doubting your word it's just that it looks pretty rugged to me.
> 
> Maybe Surefire will replace it under warranty.


----------



## Hitthespot

Thanks Al. It sure looks like glass. Well Polycarbonate can be tough, Time will tell how well its holds up.

Well I was going to buy another one right away. I will now wait and see how well this one holds up. I use and abuse my lights and cannot believe that SureFire would use plastic in one of their all aluminum Flashlights. Time will tell, but right now I'm very very suprised.

Edit: and Glock22 forgive me for doubting you. You were 100% correct on your assesment.

Thanks again Al.

Bill


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*

Most definitely on my for sure list also. :thumbsup:




enomosiki said:


> LX2 Ultra and EB1 Tactical are very high on my DO WANT list.




nathan225 BUY the fury you'll like it.


----------



## Glock 22

No need to apologize, I did'nt take it the wrong way that's why we tell personal experiences to help each other on the fourm. I would have doubted also just like you did, if it had'nt happened to me. It still one of my favorite lights.:thumbsup:




Hitthespot said:


> Thanks Al. It sure looks like glass. Well Polycarbonate can be tough, Time will tell how well its holds up.
> 
> Well I was going to buy another one right away. I will now wait and see how well this one holds up. I use and abuse my lights and cannot believe that SureFire would use plastic in one of their all aluminum Flashlights. Time will tell, but right now I'm very very suprised.
> 
> Edit: and Glock22 forgive me for doubting you. You were 100% correct on your assesment.
> 
> Thanks again Al.
> 
> Bill


----------



## esfan

The very thing I don't quite like is the polycarbonate windows on all new Surefire lights. It's pretty hard to find a proper way to clean them but not scratching. I guess only washing with mild detergent and water will do the trick?


----------



## nathan225

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*

thanks for all the replys it has been a lot of help I may try to go and look at one right away I hope going gear gets them soon I live really close and can drive there


----------



## leon2245

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*

Mine was glass (one of the first ones made). Too bad they finally switched to PC, but to be fair that IS the spec that has been advertised all along, & a few scratches isn't the end of the world. Besides I've scratched glass lenses easily enough, without realizing it/knowing how, & it doesn't really affect useful beam quality anyway. Combat style!


----------



## Sway

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*



nathan225 said:


> thanks for all the replys it has been a lot of help I may try to go and look at one right away I hope going gear gets them soon I live really close and can drive there



GG told me earlier today in an email they were out of stock and would not be getting anymore in, no explanation :shrug: 

Sorry I can't help with your decision as I'm on the fence also....I really don't need another light.....no I don't need it.....not another flashlight.....no....no......well maybe just one more :help:

Later 
Kelly


----------



## Dr. Strangelove

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*

I believe that the product manager for SureFire knows what kind of lens is used in his products, but boy does it look like glass. In my profession we do quality tests called "test to destruction" where components are continuously operated until they fail. I decided to apply this to my Fury lens. I took the sharp point of my pocket knife and tried to scratch the lens next to the bezel ring where it wouldn't be noticeable if I was successful (I know this is extreme but I wanted an answer one way or another). i couldn't scratch the lens even when I pressed very hard. (Don't try this at home kids, unless you are prepared to accept the consequences.) I tried this with my other two Furies with the same result. My conclusion: Glass, or the hardest polycarbonate I've ever seen. Certainly harder than my G2X that I scratched when I wiped it with a paper towel! This may not end the debate, but for me I'm satisfied that the lens is sufficiently scratch resistant for my use.

BTW, one of my Furies used to be Leon2245's.


----------



## Mar

Hi. I was given one of these flashlight recently, brand new. I only had a chance to try it out a couple of times doing some gps contests at night. This thing is bright and is the best thing I have at the moment. I'll be giving this flashlight a good work out while these night time contest continue and hopefully report back.

For now I see I have quite a few pages of this thread to read.


----------



## lightplay22

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*

If a sharp knife point or an Ice pic or needle does not "catch" when pressed against the lens, but slides across it without leaving a scratch, Its either glass or a new type of polycarbonate that I've not seen or heard of. 

After getting a M61N a while back, I said "No more cool whites for me", but this is getting too tempting!!!


----------



## kyhunter1

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*

After reading the most recent posts in this thread, I tried the scratch test on my Fury and the lens did not scratch! If it's not glass, then whatever it is made of satisfies me. Wish they were all this way. Maybe Surefire will reconsider on future runs of this light.


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*

Here is pic of lens scratch on my fury, and this was one of the first run put out.


----------



## seattlite

GLOCK 22 said:


> I would'nt dare try the 2 x 3.7v RCR123's in mine. I believe it would have too many volt's and fry it. I'll stick with the 17670 it works just fine, but who know's it may fry it also. If someone does try the 2 x 3.7v RCR123's I would like to know the outcome.





naked2 said:


> I have a 200 lumen KX2C head I've used with 1x 18350, 1x 17670, 2x CR123A, and 2x 16340; all with no issues. It is brighter with two cells (primary or LiIon); I don't know by how much, as I have no way to test.
> 
> Although its electronics would probably not fry, the problem with using 2x 16340 in a Fury, is that it would probably draw more than the max possible safe amperage (+/-1.5A) that a 16340 could provide. It may be in here already, as this thread is quite long now, but has anyone done a tailcap current reading on a Fury yet?



If the electronics does not fry, will the electronics put it into direct drive? If so will the LED survive the V's and I's of the 2xRCR123's? Also, is the light the same brightness on 2 x CR123's as on 1 x 17670?


----------



## Glock 22

On the 1 x AW protected 17670 mine stayed 500 lumens for around 35 to 38 minutes.


----------



## seattlite

GLOCK 22 said:


> On the 1 x AW protected 17670 mine stayed 500 lumens for around 35 to 38 minutes.



Hmmm...so no loss in brightness from 2xCR123 to 1 x 17670? Nice! No need to run 2xRCR123's then....


----------



## leon2245

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*



Dr. Strangelove said:


> I believe that the product manager for SureFire knows what kind of lens is used in his products, but boy does it look like glass. In my profession we do quality tests called "test to destruction" where components are continuously operated until they fail. I decided to apply this to my Fury lens. I took the sharp point of my pocket knife and tried to scratch the lens next to the bezel ring where it wouldn't be noticeable if I was successful (I know this is extreme but I wanted an answer one way or another). i couldn't scratch the lens even when I pressed very hard. (Don't try this at home kids, unless you are prepared to accept the consequences.) I tried this with my other two Furies with the same result. My conclusion: Glass, or the hardest polycarbonate I've ever seen. Certainly harder than my G2X that I scratched when I wiped it with a paper towel! This may not end the debate, but for me I'm satisfied that the lens is sufficiently scratch resistant for my use.
> 
> BTW, one of my Furies used to be Leon2245's.



LOL nice, so you actually put a_ blade_ to the very example I'm talking about. I KNEW I wasn't going crazy- thanks for backing me up on that one. Unfortunately, or fortunately I guess for a few buyers in this case, it's not unprecedented that SF's listed specs are subject to change. Because while scratches aren't that huge a deal, & PC has its own advantages, I'd still rather pay a little more for glass every time. Hopefully it won't be the same deal, with most or all of the other new models having PC too.


----------



## jh333233

*Re: shoul;d I get the surefire fury ?*

Chemistry time:
When a substance is hard(difficult to scratch), it is brittle(easy to shatter)
In the polycarbonate case, since its not brittle but flexible(you can press to deform it), so it is not hard, and vunlerable to scratch


----------



## esfan

I'm thinking they probably used "hardened" polycarbonate, due to it's scratch resistance and not gonna break.


----------



## Glock 22

After it drops from 500 lumens to the lo mode it runs for just a little over 40 minutes. 




seattlite said:


> Hmmm...so no loss in brightness from 2xCR123 to 1 x 17670? Nice! No need to run 2xRCR123's then....


----------



## Robert_M

Did SureFire use 'X' serial numbers on the first Fury flashlights? Or did they just use 'A' on all of them? For example, my serial number is A68760.


----------



## Dr. Strangelove

My serial numbers are A72XXX. I have a 6PX Pro I bought last Sept. that has an A52XXX S/N. The bodies appear to be 6PX Pro bodies (and tailcaps) with the name Fury instead of 6PX Pro engraved on them. They even have the characteristic mill mark under the SureFire logo. It's just a guess, but I think they might have just continued using the 6PX S/N on the Fury...


----------



## esfan

IMO they just put a bigger head and a different LED onto the 6PX body and call it "Fury".


----------



## jh333233

Having 10k lux only would be a big hotspot isnt it
XM-L + 1.62" bezel + 500lm = 10k lux (Fury)
XM-L + 1.15" Bezel + 658lm = 18.5k lux (T20CS)
And the hotspot of T20CS is large already


----------



## Raze

These newer generation of SF sure have cool names :huh:

"Fury"
"Invictus"
"Lawman"

etc..


----------



## Size15's

Update: SureFire recently made an in-production change from polycarbonate to glass. 

Perhaps a few serial numbers can help ballpark the point of change?


----------



## Glock 22

Beings mine was one of the first, I got the polycarbonate and that's why mine scratched. I put a note in with mine when I sent it back for warranty for glass to be put back in it, so that looks like what I'll get back is glass. Thanks for the update.




Size15's said:


> Update: SureFire recently made an in-production change from polycarbonate to glass.
> 
> Perhaps a few serial numbers can help ballpark the point of change?


----------



## Radio

Wow did I loose the tint lottery, anybody need a green 500 lumen light?


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

Radio said:


> Wow did I loose the tint lottery, anybody need a green 500 lumen light?



I feel your pain. The 2012 SF catalog touts the yellow-green tint as a 'feature'. More of my thoughts on this here: 

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...New-Products&p=3870524&viewfull=1#post3870524


----------



## Toohotruk

Radio said:


> Wow did I loose the tint lottery, anybody need a green 500 lumen light?



Send it my way...I'll be more than happy to take it off your hands!


----------



## freeride21a

Mine has been on back-order since 12/27.. I am almost contemplating canceling my order and applying it to a M6LT or M3LT since the price dropped big time on those. Doing research now to decide 6 or 3 since one is 800lm and one is 900lm...how much of a difference.


----------



## Hitthespot

Size15's said:


> Update: SureFire recently made an in-production change from polycarbonate to glass.
> 
> Perhaps a few serial numbers can help ballpark the point of change?



That could explain why I was 90% sure I had glass. I just purchased mine last week and they had just come into the Brightguy Store that day. Not sure how one can be sure what they have, but my serial number is A76628, if this helps. I wonder if it's possible SureFire could tell us where the glass serial numbers start?

Once again thanks Al for the information.


----------



## Hitthespot

freeride21a said:


> Mine has been on back-order since 12/27.. I am almost contemplating canceling my order and applying it to a M6LT or M3LT since the price dropped big time on those. Doing research now to decide 6 or 3 since one is 800lm and one is 900lm...how much of a difference.



Tough decisions all. I have a M3LT-S and would not consider this a replacement for the Fury. The Fury is much much smaller and could be thrown in a pocket if necessary. It really depends on YOUR needs. I don't believe the M6LT has a low mode, although it does have a longer run time on high. The M3LT does have the 70 Lumen low mode, which is very nice to have. I don't think you would notice any difference between 800 and 900 lumens, but I don't own a M6LT and can't say for sure.


----------



## brianna

If a Fury owner has a Surefire E1B. I would like to know how the throw compares to each other.


----------



## Size15's

SureFire's serial numbers are not linked to a consecutive production line given their batch production methods. We may be able to narrow a ballpark rather than a single serial number


----------



## jh333233

M3LT throws further in the youtube fieldshot video, than M6LT, despite the +100lm for m6lt


----------



## Solscud007

brianna said:


> If a Fury owner has a Surefire E1B. I would like to know how the throw compares to each other.



i can check tonight. I just got my freebie Fury from SureFire. The Wife's is probably waiting for her on her desk at work. She is away on business until Feb 20. But we both won Furys from SF.


----------



## Glock 22

My serial number is A75949, and you know it's the polycarbonate and one of the first that came out. So would it be some where around this number? I see that Hitthespot serial number is A76628 there is quiet a bit of room between them in serial numbers.




Size15's said:


> SureFire's serial numbers are not linked to a consecutive production line given their batch production methods. We may be able to narrow a ballpark rather than a single serial number


----------



## Hitthespot

Glock22 When did you buy yours, and if you know when did the supplier get the batch in you purchased yours from? Mine just came into the distributor last week and I purchased it the same day. I don't think it's a stretch to say I have one of the most recent production runs.


----------



## leon2245




----------



## Glock 22

I got mine from battery junction and recieved it around Dec 20 or so, not 100% sure but some where around that time frame. It was there first orders shipped out.




Hitthespot said:


> Glock22 When did you buy yours, and if you know when did the supplier get the batch in you purchased yours from? Mine just came into the distributor last week and I purchased it the same day. I don't think it's a stretch to say I have one of the most recent production runs.


----------



## Hitthespot

GLOCK 22 said:


> I got mine from battery junction and recieved it around Dec 20 or so, not 100% sure but some where around that time frame. It was there first orders shipped out.



Maybe people can copy the data below and fill in some of the blanks.

#A75949--Purchased 12/20/11--Polycarbonate

#A69364--Purchased 01/15/12--Glass

#A76628--Purchased 02/03/12--Glass

It's already beginning to appear as though serial numbers might be difficult in determining which units have glass, unless as Size 15 says they are batched up. Maybe by Date?


----------



## Glock 22

I agree this is a good starting point, great idea you came up with. So some where between these dates is where they made there changes, mine could have been just a prototype with the polycarbonate lens on there first batch. I sent mine back today for lens repair so I should get glass back for the lens beings they changed the way they was making them. :thumbsup:





Hitthespot said:


> Maybe people can copy the data below and fill in some of the blanks.
> 
> #A75949--Purchased 12/20/11--Polycarbonate
> 
> #A76628--Purchased 02/03/12--Glass


----------



## kyhunter1

Purchased mine mid Jan. Glass lens. #A69364


----------



## Solscud007

So brianna has been waiting ever so impatiently for my results. The results are from my own impressions. The area I tested is just outside my apartment complex. In a parking lot with quite a lot of ambient light. I know, from Wednesday night, I was at my shooting club meeting and from the meeting room balcony, looking out at the parking lot, the back of the parking lot is about 200 yds. The Fury lit up the back wall and if there were people there, I would be able to see their silhouette. 

Now back to my test yesterday. The E1B hotspot is very tight and focused. The Fury has a hot spot but a LOT more corona surrounding it. The fury seems to light up more at the same distance than the E1B. Since the fury has so much light, it feels like it is almost a wall of light screaming out of that thing. Oh and this is testing both on high.


----------



## jh333233

The way i ask for comparison, lux, beamshot, etc.
Would be patient and friendly like: Would anyone please offer XXXXX of XXX light, if no one replies, i just let the post sinks
Keep biting the others doesnt mean you will get what you want, you would only annoy them, another bump won't bloom a data

In this case, if that SOB is acting like a mainlander(i wont say chinese cuz another SOB will come and be picky)
Then just ignore him and ask him to buy both light so that he can do whatever he wanted

Back on topic
Fury has 10k lux(if i remember) while with Lx2 optics + 200lm = 10k lux *too
*E1b = same optic as LX2butless lumen(110)
So i assume E1b will have a dimmer and tighter hotspot


----------



## DM51

Two posts have been removed. Keep the squabbling off the board, please.


----------



## Owen

Has anybody gotten to the emitter on these? I know the head's glued. That doesn't mean much. 
May order one, regardless. With the <4V Vfs I've seen listed for XM-Ls, I wouldn't have a problem running R123s-it takes CR123As, so has to be a buck.
Looks like <25% less runtime for ~250% output over an E2DL on high with similar lux...nice.


----------



## jh333233

Solscud007 said:


> i can check tonight. *I just got my freebie Fury from SureFire.* The Wife's is probably waiting for her on her desk at work. She is away on business until Feb 20. But we both won Furys from SF.



Explain please? How come they became so generous


----------



## jh333233

Owen said:


> Has anybody gotten to the emitter on these? I know the head's glued. That doesn't mean much.
> May order one, regardless. With the <4V Vfs I've seen listed for XM-Ls, I wouldn't have a problem running R123s-it takes CR123As, so has to be a buck.
> Looks like <25% less runtime for ~250% output over an E2DL on high with similar lux...nice.



Previously mentioned (Despite of the long-long-long thread)
XM-L + buck driver

Similar lux, but bigger hotspot
Might be greedy but for this pocket-rocket, i expect a tighter beam profile

Sentence below is slightly irrelevant
Subjectively: I prefer a XP-G @450lm for tight hotspot and higher lux, XM-L couldnt focus nicely into tight hotspot in small reflector in fury
Resulting in XP-G+D26 beam profile


----------



## Solscud007

jh333233 said:


> Explain please? How come they became so generous



SureFire on Facebook, posted a "Holiday Light Display Photo Contest" Only a few people entered. I entered a picture. See thread link . . . http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?332699-I-won-a-P2X-Fury-from-SureFire!


----------



## Owen

I'm talking about removing the head to access and replace the emitter.


----------



## Solscud007

Anyone notice that the clicky is a little bit too deep? I have to really push the switch down 98% down to get it to click. Compared to my G2X pro, which is much easier to click on.


----------



## jh333233

Owen said:


> I'm talking about removing the head to access and replace the emitter.


Theoretically (Dont know if i made any mistake, please correct if any occurs)
1. Boil the head/ heat the head-body junction to kill the threadlock
2. Unscrew the parts
3. Unscrew bezel ring and remove reflector and window
4. Now the guts is exposed, expected to see the emitter with screws and circuit board below


----------



## youreacrab

*Differences in the Surefire P2X User Interface?*

Let's talk about the user interface on these P2Xs. I have two P2Xs on hand, and each seemingly have two different programmings.

1) First click/press: low. Release and click/press within <1 second: hi. Release and click/press within <1 second: low.
2) First click/press: low. Release and click/press within ~3 seconds: hi. Release and click/press within ~3 seconds: hi.

I contacted Surefire and was told light 1 is defective. 

Light 1 intrigues me because it makes getting to hi mode very deliberate, which is advantageous when 500 lumens would be absolutely blinding when you were expecting 15 (indoors, low ambient light).

Light 2 intrigues me because it allows "tactical" use of the hi mode by refusing to step down into low mode if you need to do a quick on-off-on-off sequence.


----------



## Solscud007

*Re: Differences in the Surefire P2X User Interface?*

Hmm. Mine switches to high as fast as i can double tap the switch. So less than a second. Regardless of clicking. the click is merely a physical action. The activation of the head is where the switching occurs not the tailcap. The person you talked to doenst know what they are talking about.


----------



## Hitthespot

Solscud007 said:


> Anyone notice that the clicky is a little bit too deep? I have to really push the switch down 98% down to get it to click. Compared to my G2X pro, which is much easier to click on.



Mine does this also, but I don't find it a problem, I just have to re-grip the light sometimes to click it on.


----------



## esfan

Regarding cleaning the lens, what I did is to using some light detergent (ICE carwash which is what I used lol) and softly rubbing the lens for several time with finger, and rinse it off with slow flowing water, and in this way I haven't got any noticeable scratches for a while. Although the lens is so soft that mounting it onto the bike and the wind could make tiny scratches by the sand it carries. I clean the lens that way every other week, and I think this could be a good way for preventing scratches onto the polycarbonate.


----------



## SuperTrouper

jh333233 said:


> Previously mentioned (Despite of the long-long-long thread)XM-L + buck driverSimilar lux, but bigger hotspotMight be greedy but for this pocket-rocket, i expect a tighter beam profileSentence below is slightly irrelevantSubjectively: I prefer a XP-G @450lm for tight hotspot and higher lux, XM-L couldnt focus nicely into tight hotspot in small reflector in furyResulting in XP-G+D26 beam profile


Have you ever seen an XP-G being driven hard enough to deliver 450lm? As I understood things, the XP-G was maxed out in the mid 300lm range at 1.5A, I don't believe it's capable of 450lm as a single emitter.


----------



## jh333233

SuperTrouper said:


> Have you ever seen an XP-G being driven hard enough to deliver 450lm? As I understood things, the XP-G was maxed out in the mid 300lm range at 1.5A, I don't believe it's capable of 450lm as a single emitter.



XP-G is capable of delivering 493lm with outdated tech.
With quality brass base, you can do so
Despite an old reply, ive dug it out

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?331063-SHOT-Show-2012-Surefire-New-Products/page9 #251
Someone insisted XP-G can go 500lm

By "Funder"


Funder said:


> Secondly, is it possible to make 500lm light with XP-G? It is tough but possible.
> Currently the best available (although very limited) XP-G Bin is S3, which is ~ 524-564lm @ 1.5A. Manufacturer like Surefire has a close relationship with Cree and other LED supplier, so they can get the very premium Bin before us. Lets remind 4sevens released S3 lights much earlier before the S3 bin is listed in the Cree official documents.
> 
> And the LX2U will not available very soon, so surefire can wait for the availability of better LEDs (or they can edit their claims in the catalog ).
> 
> Thirdly, Surefire give some hints in the catalog. They mentioned L2X ultra and X300 Ultra has some specially selected LED which has yellowish green tints. This fits what we saw in current very premium Bin Cree LEDs. We know P2X fury is powered by XML, it is 500lm and 9400cd. In 2012 catalog Surefire has revealed some similar-sized lights: UM2, ZM2 and DM2. These three has a larger bezel than LX2 ultra (37mm vs 29mm). If LX2 ultra use same LEDs (XML), then UM2, ZM2 and DM2 should outthrow LX2U because they have larger TIR lens. However, UM2, ZM2 and DM2 only have 9700cds. This indicates LX2U utilize some different LED which has a higher luminance when giving 500lm luminous flux.


----------



## seattlite

jh333233 said:


> Theoretically (Dont know if i made any mistake, please correct if any occurs)
> 1. Boil the head/ heat the head-body junction to kill the threadlock
> 2. Unscrew the parts
> 3. Unscrew bezel ring and remove reflector and window
> 4. Now the guts is exposed, expected to see the emitter with screws and circuit board below



If one is able to remove the head, is the head SF C/P series compatible?


----------



## seattlite

Owen said:


> Has anybody gotten to the emitter on these? I know the head's glued. That doesn't mean much.
> May order one, regardless. With the <4V Vfs I've seen listed for XM-Ls, I wouldn't have a problem running R123s-it takes CR123As, so has to be a buck.
> Looks like <25% less runtime for ~250% output over an E2DL on high with similar lux...nice.



So you are saying that the 8.4V from 2xRCR123's will be bucked? So no frying of LED nor circuit?


----------



## Helmut.G

seattlite said:


> If one is able to remove the head, is the head SF C/P series compatible?


no.


----------



## dano

The head on my Fury wasn't cemented, so I can unscrew it. 

I really like this light, but still wish it was one mode.

-dan


----------



## kyhunter1

With your head being loose, swap the driver if possible and you can have a single mode. 





dano said:


> The head on my Fury wasn't cemented, so I can unscrew it.
> 
> I really like this light, but still wish it was one mode.
> 
> -dan


----------



## Owen

seattlite said:


> So you are saying that the 8.4V from 2xRCR123's will be bucked? So no frying of LED nor circuit?


I'll throw in a "do so at your own risk", but that's my opinion. How many current regulating buck circuits have we heard of with an upper limit of 6V?
There was much discussion here in the past about running the E2DL on R123s, and warnings against it. Some people insisted that doing so would fry the emitter or damage the circuit, but the bottom line is that SF doesn't publicize the particulars of their circuits. I've been going through a pair or more of R123s per night, 5 nights per week, for a couple of years in an E2DL, and personally wouldn't hesitate to try running the P2X-B with them.


----------



## Hitthespot

Well, Against my better judgement I placed two R123's in the Fury and turned it on. Both the high and the low appear to function correctly and nothing went boom. I only left it on high for around 10 seconds. Guess I'm still a little scared. LOL.

Bill


----------



## seattlite

Hitthespot said:


> Well, Against my better judgement I placed two R123's in the Fury and turned it on. Both the high and the low appear to function correctly and nothing went boom. I only left it on high for around 10 seconds. Guess I'm still a little scared. LOL.
> 
> Bill



NICE!! Thank you for the confirmation. Nice to see that we have another battery option!


----------



## MT7

Hey everyone,
Are anybody know what's the Beam range of the SureFire P2X ''Fury''?
and another question-which flashlight is better-the SureFire ''Fury'' or the Led Lenser X14? (Luminous flux,beam range...)
thanks advance =)


----------



## Stainz

My Fury has been in use for three weeks today. Fresh S-F CR123A cells read 3.25V on my el-cheapo (Actually - free!) Harbor Freight DMM. My Fury's are at 3.01V now. My Olight M21 Warrior got fresh cells the day I started using the Fury. They are at 2.91V -close to exhausted. I didn't think I had used it more than the Fury - which seems noticeably brighter in the central spot on high than the M21. The M21 seems cooler - the Fury warmer - in color tint. The central spots are similar, with the spill rim being decidedly larger from the Fury - really a 'wall of light'. On low, my Fury and 6PX Pro are similar - both less defined than my old E1B's low. The E1B is my EDC - it's grown some use wear. The Fury, and mine is a s/n A73XYZ, has the same fingernail thump sounds as the E1B, E2DL, 6P LED, etc, glass lens - not the 6PX Pro's plastic sound, is a keeper... still not so fond of the M21. As I said, I did pay for the 'luxury' of walking out the door of a local store with my Fury... with it's glass lens... and me less $152!

My criticism... I'd prefer a tail-stander, even if it is nose-heavy. I got a replacement tailcap years ago for my then new belt/clip rider E2DL after it fell from my belt to the concrete sidewalk on it's first outing, mangling a serration. S-F sent me a replacement - I filed/sanded the original a bit and used it on my E1b Backup - wow - that needs to be a new version of the Backup. Low power on it's tail on the lavatory in the middle of the night, it lights up the room on low. Also worked well as a room light whe the power was knocked out last month (Tornado damage.). I can't imagine the Fury on a tailcap - on high! Maybe just an aftermarket 'foot'?

Stainz


----------



## kyhunter1

It's beam throws pretty good out to about a 100-150 yards. It will illuminate further. Dont know anything about the Led Lenser stuff. 



MT7 said:


> Hey everyone,
> Are anybody know what's the Beam range of the SureFire P2X ''Fury''?
> and another question-which flashlight is better-the SureFire ''Fury'' or the Led Lenser X14? (Luminous flux,beam range...)
> thanks advance =)


----------



## MT7

kyhunter1 said:


> It's beam throws pretty good out to about a 100-150 yards. It will illuminate further. Dont know anything about the Led Lenser stuff.


Are you sure? my Led Lenser MT7 have only 200 lumens and it's beam throws pretty good out about 250 meters....
and are anybody knows which flashlight is better-SureFire P2X ''Fury'' or the Led Lenser X14?


----------



## dmz

*Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

Fury P2X-B is the best bang for the buck from SF. 

Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B? Or come out with different variants such as a tactical version?
Will SF put a glass lens on it? How about a smooth reflector?

http://www.surefire.com/P2X-B-BK


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



> Will SF put a glass lens on it?



As far as I know, they already have.



> How about a smooth reflector?



That might not be such a good idea from my recent experience with XM-L emitters. A smooth reflector seems to accentuate the sickly green aura around the hotspot in a couple of my other lights.


----------



## dmz

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

Wouldn't a smooth reflector give it more throw? 

I wish there was a tail cap stand option. 

I prefer a crenelated bezel. Crenelated bezel is offered in many of the SF handhelds.


----------



## Tommygun45

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

I don't have one but I am pretty sure a Malkoff MD2 tailcap will fit on these. They allow tailstanding and are only 25 bucks to boot.



dmz said:


> Wouldn't a smooth reflector give it more throw?
> 
> I wish there was a tail cap stand option.
> 
> I prefer a crenelated bezel. Crenelated bezel is offered in many of the SF handhelds.


----------



## jalcon

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

I could be wrong on this but I'm pretty sure the early batches of these did in fact have a glass lens, but the current production one's do not.

As far as upgrading the fury, I think that's what some of surefire's other new 500 lumen pocket blasters for 2012 are. (i.e., UM2 Ultra, DM2 Defender, ZM2 Combatlight, LX2 Lumamax Ultra)


----------



## Hitthespot

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



jalcon said:


> I could be wrong on this but I'm pretty sure the early batches of these did in fact have a glass lens, but the current production one's do not.



I think you have it backwards. According to "Size 15" Surefire changed to a glass lens sometime during production. So all of the later shipments should have glass lenses. I have one from the latest shipment from SureFire and mine is Glass.

As far as changes to this model I don't think we will see any. SureFire has shown plans for a lot of different light releases, not the least of which is the L2X ultra (500 lumens). I would love to get my hands on that one, and I hope SureFire does in fact release it.

My only complaint with the SureFire Fury is no middle ground. I could use a middle setting much more than a real low setting. So I would like to see a 120 lumen low or a 120 lumen middle setting and they can keep the low.


----------



## Size15's

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

SureFire propose a new model - the "DM2" Defender with a crenelated 'Strike Bezel'.
The 2012 catalog has it with a TIR optic and dual output - first 500 lumens, with the second output being 15 lumens.
There's even the possibility of an alternative version with SureFire's two-stage push button pressure switch TailCap. (1st stage being 15 lumens, 2nd "mash down" stage being 500 lumens).

SureFire may also release a single-output version of the Fury (P2X-A) with simply the 500 lumen output.


----------



## Glock 22

Yes! kyhunter1 is telling you right on the throw, because he tested my fury and his, and both was the same on the throw distance.





MT7 said:


> Are you sure? my Led Lenser MT7 have only 200 lumens and it's beam throws pretty good out about 250 meters....
> and are anybody knows which flashlight is better-SureFire P2X ''Fury'' or the Led Lenser X14?


----------



## thedofuss

I have not beeen able to confirm, but any Surefire with 500 lumens for $160 is, IMHO, not possible. They make a premium light and charge a significant premium for it. Don't hold your breath for this one. :ironic:


----------



## Crushmaster

thedofuss said:


> I have not beeen able to confirm, but any Surefire with 500 lumens for $160 is, IMHO, not possible. They make a premium light and charge a significant premium for it. Don't hold your breath for this one. :ironic:


It's available for even less than that some places Online, so, yes, it's quite possible.
God bless,
Joel ><>.


----------



## thedofuss

Hold the press! I must restate my prior response--sorry. I just went to the Surefire site (2/20/12), and behold: they do feature the stated, 500 lumen light, and at $155! Yikes. What am I missing--this is a seeming no brainer.


----------



## dmz

Brightguy & LAPG has the fury for $108


----------



## thedofuss

you can buy on www.amazon.com, for the straight 500 lumens, or for the 15/500 version. anybody have one? sounds too good to be true.


----------



## Robin24k

There's only one version of the P2X, the sellers just titled their listings differently. Both say 15 lumens low and 500 lumens high in the description.


----------



## dmz

Why bother with the G2X / G2X Pro / 6PX / 6PX Pro when the P2X Fury is $108 & 500 LM?


----------



## jh333233

dmz said:


> Why bother with the G2X / G2X Pro / 6PX / 6PX Pro when the P2X Fury is $108 & 500 LM?


Some guys need a 200lm(or high mode) blast without delay(15->500, thats the delay), a single second alters result, may even leads to fatality.


----------



## Xacto

dmz said:


> Why bother with the G2X / G2X Pro / 6PX / 6PX Pro when the P2X Fury is $108 & 500 LM?



Because indoors 500lm can be too much, when 200lm are just right (in case of the Pro) or you just do not like multi-mode lights and thus go the Tactical line with a single, 200lm mode.

Cheers
Thorsten


----------



## Solscud007

I posted my _Fist of Fury. _ Well I present the sequel:_ Fists of Fury_. The wife came back from her trip and brought our second freebie Fury home. Now it's off to its new owner. (I traded one for a SWM V10R Ti with extender)


----------



## Solscud007

I honestly would like a single mode Fury or have it activate like like the E2DL where high comes on first. But I do find it amusing when people try the Fury, look dissapointed at the 15 lumens. Then I tell them hit the switch off and on again. Then they blind themselves haha.


----------



## shramj

I know they are backordered at BJ but I was able to find it online at Nalpak for $108.50 and if you use code "sureship" you will get discounted shipping. I order it yesterday and they were able to ship it out yesterday as well so it seems like they are on top of their stuff over there. I should have mine tomorrow and then I can post my thoughts on the light after I play with it.


----------



## madx312

"But I do find it amusing when people try the Fury, look dissapointed at the 15 lumens. Then I tell them hit the switch off and on again. Then they blind themselves haha. "

Haha reminds me of the time when my college physics professor needed a light for demonstrating how polarizing material works and I let her use my E2DL (her bulb burned out in her light). Only instead of being disappointing in its brightness, it was too bright and the polarized film didn't block all the light. So I told her to quickly click the switch off and on and she was pleased with the nice 5 lumens of non-retina searing light. 

This also my first post! Greeting CPF members! 

-madx312


----------



## shramj

I just got my Fury; I have to say that my lense appears to be glass (serial# A69687). I can't wait for it to get dark outside so I can play around with this thing. I know some people are disappointed that it is on low when you turn it on and then you can turn it to high. I don't see why this is such a concern to people unless you are a LEO or in the military. You just tap the button then give it like half a second to a second and then push the button in again and you are on high. This works on both using the button momentarily (half way) and also when fully pushing the button in. I wish it came with a clip on it but I will look at purchasing one online from another vendor. Anyways, if this is any indication of the new Surefires for 2012, we are all in for a treat. I am really impressed with the price of it as well.


----------



## Solscud007

It is a tactical issue. In moment of stress it is really difficult to gather your thoughts let alone try to double tap anything. Trust me I have seen it in person. target shooting at a range with movement and transitioning to different targets with a timer is already stressful enough. People have challenges even doing it with the lights on. Then I had them turn the lights off and do it again. some gave up when they had malfunctions and some had operator issues holding a light while shooting. Having one less thing to switch for full blast 500 would be nice. they should offer the light in a tactical version.


----------



## shramj

I believe when the new 500 lumen Defender light come out, it will have 500 lumen come on initially and will then have a 15 lumen setting 2nd, kinda like the Fury but opposite. The Defender would be a great night stand light if you ask me.


----------



## KeyGrip

Solscud007 said:


> they should offer the light in a tactical version.



I would be surprised if they didn't. Seems logical if this light is the beefed-up version of the 6PX Pro that they'd also give us a single mode, twistie tailcap "tactical" version like the 6PX Tac.


----------



## Robin24k

Runtime graph for the P2X with SF123A and LFP123A (SureFire OEM rechargeable 123A)...




Temperature around 1 hour into the test was >124°F on the body of the light. I touched the tailcap while taking the temperature and actually burned my finger...it's definately much too hot for handheld operation.


----------



## Robert_M

Thanks Robin24k for taking the time to do this run time test!


----------



## schurtjl

Robin24k said:


> Runtime graph for the P2X with SF123A and LFP123A (SureFire OEM rechargeable 123A)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temperature around 1 hour into the test was >124°F on the body of the light. I touched the tailcap while taking the temperature and actually burned my finger...it's definately much too hot for handheld operation.



Was that temp with the lithium phosphate's or the primaries? Seems excessive?


----------



## Robin24k

Primaries (rechargeables won't last an hour on high). It's not designed for extended operation on high mode, but that heat is going to get dissipated if you leave it on that long.


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

If you were holding it for that whole length of time, it wouldn't have gotten as hot though due to your hand aiding in heat transfer.


----------



## pulstar

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

Hi guys,

after a few hours searching for european vendors, i came across a thread where someone compared G2X and P2X Fury. I think many of you will find this very helpful:

http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/surefire/10943-surefire-p2x-fury-500lm-2xcr123a.html


----------



## Dr. Strangelove

Thanks Pulstar!


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

Thanks for the info...great to see the beamshot comparison! :thumbsup:


----------



## Rocky1927

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

Battery Junction just emailed me the my Fury is in! Yeeha!:devil:


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

I'm still wait on mine to get back from Surefire for lens replacement.


----------



## freeride21a

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

Ordered on 12/27... shipped today 2/29. FINALLY!!! Cant wait!


----------



## BigusLightus

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

Just received mine yesterday from LAPG. Very fast switching between low and high and it has a *glass* lens.

Very nice beam and tint. The head appears well glued!


----------



## kaichu dento

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



BigusLightus said:


> Just received mine yesterday from LAPG. Very fast switching between low and high and it has a *glass* lens.
> 
> Very nice beam and tint. The head appears well glued!


Sounding very interesting - any pics of it in hand yet?


----------



## jalcon

Just ordered one from LAPolice gear for 108, I wonder when I'll get it? :ironic: Haha. It says it's only backordered 1-2 weeks, is this what it said for you guys that ordered it at christmas time and are just now getting yours?


----------



## Robin24k

Previous delays were due to a shortage of reflectors, but that has been resolved and SureFire is starting to catch up on backorders (a bunch of them went out to dealers last week). Hopefully it won't take too long...


----------



## trgrhppy

I ordered one from Nalpak, Inc. on Feb. 24. Price was $108.50. It was in stock, and shipped the same day. I received it March 1, shipping was free. It is a very nice light.


----------



## jalcon

That's good to here. How can places sell this light for only $108, when surefire is selling it for $165? Hey, I am not complaining though.


----------



## Size15's

SureFire recently changed the way its Dealers can advertise its products. I believe it was a contracted Minimum Advertised Price. It now appears Dealers can advertise at a price they decide.


----------



## hook63

trgrhppy said:


> I ordered one from Nalpak, Inc. on Feb. 24. Price was $108.50. It was in stock, and shipped the same day. I received it March 1, shipping was free. It is a very nice light.


 Ordered mine the same day from them. So far nothing, not shipped, not on back order and they don't answer there phone.


----------



## jalcon

I have to ask, why isn't this light more popular? I mean a factory 500 lumen light from Surefire for alittle over $100? Isn't that like a CPFers dream? Maybe I am missing something. I mean there isn't even a review for it in the review forum, it kind of boggles the mind. Maybe it is the lack of upgrade/interchangeability in these new SF lights? What gives


----------



## Xacto

jalcon said:


> I have to ask, why isn't this light more popular? I mean a factory 500 lumen light from Surefire for alittle over $100? Isn't that like a CPFers dream? Maybe I am missing something. I mean there isn't even a review for it in the review forum, it kind of boggles the mind. Maybe it is the lack of upgrade/interchangeability in these new SF lights? What gives



Two reasons: 
a) UI of 2 levels (acceptable in the Surefire Backup because of the size and its intended role)
b) low first.

not a real reason, more of a personal observation - 
c) 500 lumen is way to much for mostly indoor use.

Cheers
Thorsten


----------



## tobrien

^^agreed. I was seriously planning on buying a Fury but when I saw it comes on in low first I lost my enthusiasm for potentially buying this. :/


----------



## shramj

The new defender will probably be what you are looking for, it goes on High first, then low.


----------



## Xacto

shramj said:


> The new defender will probably be what you are looking for, it goes on High first, then low.



If at all, then I am waiting for the ZM2 (depending on the price) since it is a single mode light. If I need a lower setting, I surely have other lights with me that can provide the lumen I need. Especially since I would consider the 500 lumen of the ZM2 too specialised.

Cheers
Thorsten


----------



## jalcon

I guess it all depends on preference. I see what you are saying for tactical reasons, but 95% of the time I will probably use the 15 lumen mode anyway, so it coming on first makes sense for me.


----------



## Ctechlite

Got mine a few days ago. I'm impressed with it, especially at the $0.22/lumen price. Low coming on first is a plus for me. I do however seem to have a faulty switch. When I press for off it sometimes stays on. I'm not worried tho, Surefire will replace it.


----------



## shramj

I agree with jalcon, I just use my Fury for around the house, walking the dogs, and use it when I am cooking on the grill at night. The Fury is perfect for this type of work. I do want the new DM2 Defender for my night stand when it comes out. For a tactical light, I can see why people wouldn't like the Fury but for an everyday light, the Fury works great for me.


----------



## P_A_S_1

I know they have not been released yet but I'll ask anyway. Surefire's 2012 catalog lists both the Fury and DM2 as 500 lumen with slightly different candela, 9400 to 9700 respectively. The LX2 candela is 13000 for the 500 lumen model. Higher candela means tighter beam and more throw, right?


----------



## Robin24k

If total output (lumens) is identical, that is correct.


----------



## P_A_S_1

Thanks.


----------



## Glock 22

Just got my Fury back from warranty. They sent me a brand new one, this one has the glass lens, flawless beam and no issues, perfectly satisfied with it . Thanks to Surefire for excellent service. :thumbsup:


----------



## Rik600

Hello,

Just want to tell you that the Fury works good on Two AW ICR 123 / 16340 3.7 Volt / 750 mAH rechargable batteries.

The problem using one 17670Cell is that the regulation of the lamp doesn't work very well.
With a full 17670 Cell (AW, 1600mAH) it takes about 2 Amperes at 4.1 Volt but when the Voltage goes under 4 Volt, the current drops and even so the brightnes (though you don't see it so easy at first).
the good thing about this is, that you have useful light for nearly one hour (because the lamp takes less power from the cell when the Voltage drops).

With two full Cells the lamp takes only 1 Ampere at 8.2 Volt, so the lamp takes the same power from the Cells which says it isn't "overdriven".
You have full bright light for about 30 Minutes till the Light drops off immediately (you can't even use the low mode, it's totally off for some minutes).
after some minutes, you can switch it on again for some seconds.
The lamp got very warm with the two cells lying on a table in a warm room. After 20 minates it reaches 55° C (130 Fahrenheit) till i cooled it down with water.
this is very hot but on a normal use, the lamp is cooled from the hands or wind outdoors, so it wouldn't get that hot.


So both Alternatives (one 17670 or two 16340 Cells) have their advantage, but i prefer two cells because i know i get the maximum light out of the lamp.
The best is to use CR123 Batteries because the regulation works best on them, but for everyday use, the rechargables are much cheaper.

I used the two 16340 cells about ten times now without any worry.

Best regards, Hendrik


----------



## jalcon

How much further will the Fury throw than the 6px pro?


----------



## Toohotruk

Good to know Rik600. :thumbsup:

And :welcome:


----------



## freeride21a

Yay!!! Mine came in today!! 12/27-3/7 due to surefires back-order log from the change.

Wall of light!


----------



## freeride21a

jalcon said:


> How much further will the Fury throw than the 6px pro?



Just took my G2X Pro out which is the same head as the 6PX Pro. I compared it to my new FURY, there is quite a difference in throw even though these are not throwers. Fury puts a lot more light out.


----------



## Glock 22

:goodjob: Surefire really did a great job by releasing this Fury. Easy on the wallet just a little over $100., awsome otf lumens 500. Light weight small enough that if you wanted to you could put a pocket clip on it and use it as an edc light. And if something goes wrong like my lens getting scratched to say in general, no questions asked they sent me a brand new one, great service. But all in all I'm really impressed with this light and the work Surefire put into it. If your thinking about buying a Fury it's money well spent, and I don't believe you'll be disappointed.


----------



## smoses

Does the polycorbonate lens scratch easily? If so how much is a replacement lens for this light? I imagine that I would be using this light fairly heavily...


----------



## Robin24k

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



Size15's said:


> SureFire may also release a single-output version of the Fury (P2X-A) with simply the 500 lumen output.


I've gotten further confirmation, the Fury is actually going to be a _family _of lights.

Tactical, Defender, and CombatLight versions should be available within a couple months...


----------



## Robin24k

smoses said:


> Does the polycorbonate lens scratch easily? If so how much is a replacement lens for this light? I imagine that I would be using this light fairly heavily...


Very easily. Windows are not user-replaceable, but they have switched to AR coated glass, so it shouldn't be an issue anymore.


----------



## ganymede

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

:thumbsup:


Robin24k said:


> I've gotten further confirmation, the Fury is actually going to be a _family _of lights.
> 
> Tactical, Defender, and CombatLight versions should be available within a couple months...


----------



## arcane

*flaw on lens dome?*

I ordered my Fury from BatteryJunction on 1/31 and it shipped out on 2/29. Came with a glass lens w/ an AR coating.

:wow: :twothumbs:rock:was my initial impression!!! I was looking for a 2xCR123, XM-L that has decent throw and not just a wall of light.

There's one small flaw though... there's a little speck of dirt or marking on the actual domed lens of the LED. I contacted SF and got an RMA to send it back.
I'm sending it out today but can't wait till it returns.


----------



## Glock 22

You contact Surefire if it ever gets scratched and send it back to them and they'll replace it with a glass one. But they just sent me a new fury instead. Surefire takes care of there customers, so if that was to happen you don't have to worry.




smoses said:


> Does the polycorbonate lens scratch easily? If so how much is a replacement lens for this light? I imagine that I would be using this light fairly heavily...


----------



## arcane

I've got a G2X Pro w/ a plastic lens that scratches just by looking at it hard enough. I wish I could just send it in and have them replace the plastic lens w/ P2X glass.


----------



## 880arm

You hear quite often about how they send out new lights rather than making simple repairs to old ones. This makes me wonder one thing. What do they do with the (almost) perfectly good lights that are sent back to them?



GLOCK 22 said:


> You contact Surefire if it ever gets scratched and send it back to them and they'll replace it with a glass one. But they just sent me a new fury instead. Surefire takes care of there customers, so if that was to happen you don't have to worry.


----------



## Toohotruk

I don't know, but it would sure be cool to get in on a "garage sale" and get some sweet deals on previously owned lights!


----------



## Glock 22

:thinking: That's a good thought.




880arm said:


> You hear quite often about how they send out new lights rather than making simple repairs to old ones. This makes me wonder one thing. What do they do with the (almost) perfectly good lights that are sent back to them?


----------



## jalcon

Interesting thought. However when you guys say you are getting "new" lights, are they still in factory packaging? I say this because I sent in my 6px pro for repair and they sent me a "new" light but it was in a plastic bag. Upon inspecting, this wasn't a new light at all. It had a huge scratch on the head. I emailed surefire.about this and.questioned why I didn't a brand new light in its factory surefire packaging. They told me that the lights tHohat they use in the replacement process such as mine were lights that were purchased by someone, and returned within 30 days. Those were.then "inspected" and sealed and put.on the shelf as a new light. Anyways after some bickering they told me to send back the.defective, scratched "new" light, (at their expense) and they would replace with a new one in original surefire factory packaging. I was not alone in this as someone else in the 6px pro thread had a similar issue. I'm in the process of waiting on that new light now and should get it Monday so we'll see.

I might add, yes Surefire has a great warranty service, but it sure does get used a lot. I mean just the small, minuscule sample of fury buyers in this thread and a few have had to send theirs in for repair. Makes you wonder about the other hundreds of thousands sold.

Idk, I'm very new to the flashlight world and by starting with Surefire lights thought I was starting near the top, but am kind of left with a less than impressed feeling. Idk, maybe I'm being unfair and just expecting too much?


----------



## Robin24k

Since the Fury had been in backorder for so long, there are no any refurbished lights to send out as a replacement so they sent a new one. Once they get a couple of them back for replacement, those will be refurbished so that new lights won't be sent as warranty replacements anymore.



880arm said:


> You hear quite often about how they send out new lights rather than making simple repairs to old ones. This makes me wonder one thing. What do they do with the (almost) perfectly good lights that are sent back to them?


See above. They will refurbish them and use them as future warranty replacements.


----------



## freeride21a

880arm said:


> You hear quite often about how they send out new lights rather than making simple repairs to old ones. This makes me wonder one thing. What do they do with the (almost) perfectly good lights that are sent back to them?



Probably repair it at their leisure to swap out with a future warranty claim. Faster turnaround when you have swaps ready to go rather than rip a light apart to troubleshoot it before returning it to customer. I bet you could ask that you get the light you sent in back, but the turnaround wont be as fast.

ETA: beat by some posts above.. but I am leaving because I bet you can ask to get the light you sent in, back.


----------



## Glock 22

Mine came in a plastic bag, but I wrote the serial number down before I sent it to Surefire and the one I got in return had a different serial number. That way I would know if I got my old one back or a new one, just so happen it was a new one.




jalcon said:


> Interesting thought. However when you guys say you are getting "new" lights, are they still in factory packaging? I say this because I sent in my 6px pro for repair and they sent me a "new" light but it was in a plastic bag.


----------



## wrueckert

*Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Hey all, first post, unfortunately it has to be a negative one, but I figured I better share this: Just got my Fury after waiting about a month on back order, I was working on a hot water heater when my brand new light rolled off the top and landed on the concrete floor (maybe 4 foot fall) and now it has a nice crack in the glass. So now my new Fury is already headed to the shop after less than 24 hours of play time. I've dropped plenty of Surefire's from much higher, never had an issue before, I'm hoping I just got a defective lens and this isn't some oversight in the changeover from plastic to glass 

SN A96814 for those keeping track of changeover.

And thanks for the awesome treasure trove of photon knowledge by the way!


----------



## tobrien

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



wrueckert said:


> Hey all, first post, unfortunately it has to be a negative one, but I figured I better share this: Just got my Fury after waiting about a month on back order, I was working on a hot water heater when my brand new light rolled off the top and landed on the concrete floor (maybe 4 foot fall) and now it has a nice crack in the glass. So now my new Fury is already headed to the shop after less than 24 hours of play time. I've dropped plenty of Surefire's from much higher, never had an issue before, I'm hoping I just got a defective lens and this isn't some oversight in the changeover from plastic to glass
> 
> SN A96814 for those keeping track of changeover.
> 
> And thanks for the awesome treasure trove of photon knowledge by the way!


maybe it happened to hit at just the right angle, you know, to break the lens. :/

so you've already contacted SF?


----------



## wrueckert

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



tobrien said:


> maybe it happened to hit at just the right angle, you know, to break the lens. :/
> 
> so you've already contacted SF?




I'm hoping this is what happened, I contacted SF so its just a matter of waiting a bit longer. The fall put a little dent in the side of the bezel ring which is what broke the glass I'm assuming. most of the other models with glass lenses seem to be a bit beefier around the head/lens area which is where my concern is.


----------



## tobrien

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



wrueckert said:


> I'm hoping this is what happened, I contacted SF so its just a matter of waiting a bit longer. The fall put a little dent in the side of the bezel ring which is what broke the glass I'm assuming. most of the other models with glass lenses seem to be a bit beefier around the head/lens area which is where my concern is.


gotcha. SF will take care of you.


----------



## Robin24k

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Unfortunately, glass will always be breakable...even if it's thick and encased by shock-absorbing material, that only makes it more difficult to break. If you think you the light will be dropped on a regular basis, you might want to look into one with a polycarbonate window...


----------



## M I K

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I was at a Gun Show yesterday and there was a vendor there with a bunch of SureFires on display. Low and behold there was a new FURY there. I shined it on the white wall behind his table. E gads, that beam had a Green tint that looked like my front lawn.




"Uh yes, I'll have an L4 over-easy with a side order of 17670's please!"


----------



## naked2

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



jalcon said:


> Makes you wonder about the other hundreds of thousands sold.


 


You think they've already sold at least 200,000 Furys? I'd be surprised if someone confirmed they've sold tens of thousands (size 15's?).


----------



## Robin24k

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

First run of Fury's was 3000 units, and that was sold out by December. Not sure how many more they've made since then though.


----------



## Robin24k

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Robert_M said:


> Here's an interesting review of the Fury. It also discusses the new rechargeable batteries that SureFire will be selling.
> 
> http://www.led-resource.com/2012/03/surefire-p2x-fury-review/


That looks familiar... :thinking:

But yes, I published my review of the Fury yesterday, so if there are any of you that are still considering the Fury, I hope it will be helpful.


----------



## naked2

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I just read your review; those are not SureFire batteries or charger and are not sold by SureFire. I noticed in your review that you didn't include who supplied you with your review sample; it couldn't have been SureFire (since they don't sell rechargeable batteries), right?


----------



## Robin24k

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

It was a pre-release sample that we received for testing, but they are representative of the final product that will be released soon. Unlike disposable 123A batteries, the rechargeable batteries and charger won't be re-branded by the OEM, which is K2 Energy.

I believe SureFire first announced lithium phosphate rechargeable batteries in their 2011 catalog, and if you look closer, there's actually a SureFire UPC on the back of the packaging for the batteries. For the charger kit, there will be SureFire-branded throw-away packaging, which is still in the works. Once the packaging has been finalized, the kit and batteries will be sold by SureFire exclusively from their website.


----------



## naked2

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

But you didn't answer my question; who supplied your review sample?


----------



## Robin24k

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

SureFire.


----------



## csshih

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Robin24k said:


> SureFire.



now I'm quite curious.
who are you? you seem to have a bit more insider access than most.


Craig


----------



## Tana

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

This thread gets cooler and cooler...


----------



## Novan3

The 500 lumen mode is nice but it's a* juice hog. *


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



csshih said:


> now I'm quite curious.
> who are you? you seem to have a bit more insider access than most.
> 
> 
> Craig



You don't know who Robin24K is? :shrug:


----------



## csshih

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Toohotruk said:


> You don't know who Robin24K is? :shrug:


no, but looking into it a bit more I have a feeling we've met one way or another. :duh2:

Craig


----------



## FlashSpyJ

Would a regular 6P cell extender fit this light? My friend wants to ad some length to the light by adding a one cell extender with a dummy cell. Would this work??
If a standard 6P tailcap would fit the light, the extender would fit to?

Thanks!


----------



## Helmut.G

FlashSpyJ said:


> Would a regular 6P cell extender fit this light? My friend wants to ad some length to the light by adding a one cell extender with a dummy cell. Would this work??
> If a standard 6P tailcap would fit the light, the extender would fit to?
> 
> Thanks!


No need for a dummy cell, 2x17500 (max 8.4V) and probably 3xCR123 (~9V) should work just fine _based on the positive reports of using 2x16340 (max 8.4V)._

And I think I remember a tailcap lego pic so as you say if tailcaps fit an extender should fit, too.


----------



## HiCap

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



wrueckert said:


> Hey all, first post, unfortunately it has to be a negative one, but I figured I better share this: Just got my Fury after waiting about a month on back order, I was working on a hot water heater when my brand new light rolled off the top and landed on the concrete floor (maybe 4 foot fall) and now it has a nice crack in the glass. So now my new Fury is already headed to the shop after less than 24 hours of play time. I've dropped plenty of Surefire's from much higher, never had an issue before, I'm hoping I just got a defective lens and this isn't some oversight in the changeover from plastic to glass
> 
> SN A96814 for those keeping track of changeover.
> 
> And thanks for the awesome treasure trove of photon knowledge by the way!



If working on plumbing, or anything, why not use headlite and have both hands free?


----------



## Robin24k

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



csshih said:


> no, but looking into it a bit more I have a feeling we've met one way or another. :duh2:
> 
> Craig


Really? Not sure where we might have met before...


----------



## FlashSpyJ

The reason he wants to ad an extender is because he wants "more" flashlight to hold on to. He don´t like two cells lights...He will be carrying the light at work, he are currently using the M3 which he thinks are a good length...  But wants a little more output and a low and a high. My thought would be that a Fury would fit the bill perfectly if he could ad an extender to get some more length to it...


----------



## naked2

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Robin24k said:


> SureFire.


Funny. I spoke to SureFire customer service; the rep I talked to claimed the rechargeable batteries in their 2012 catalog are only shown as an "idea" for a new product. She also said as far as she knew, there was no prototype or mock-up even made, let alone sent out for review.


----------



## Robin24k

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Customer service is not always the most informed, so I would take that with a grain of salt. Since you also seem to take my word with a grain of salt, we can just wait a couple weeks and see what pops up on SureFire's website.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



naked2 said:


> Funny. I spoke to SureFire customer service; the rep I talked to claimed the rechargeable batteries in their 2012 catalog are only shown as an "idea" for a new product. She also said as far as she knew, there was no prototype or mock-up even made, let alone sent out for review.



We've sure been down this road a few times before. A lot of us are hoping the recent changes to pricing, suddenly introduced new models like the Fury and other signs of change mean that SF is not up to its old tricks of dangling tantalizing vaporware in front of the unwashed masses.

All of the traditional excuses about how PK is a genius - he can't be rushed, we're not the target market, SF has bigger fish to fry, just because it's in the catalog doesn't mean they'll actually ship it etc., wear thin after a while. Can you imagine if Apple announced several new products these days and then failed to produce them? I realize SF is not Apple but if they are sincere about going after the consumer market, they need to be more responsible about what they advertise to the customer in my opinion.

Like a lot of other folks here, I'll certainly continue to buy many of the new SF models when they come out. If they come out.:thumbsup:



Robin24k said:


> Customer service is not always the most informed, so I would take that with a grain of salt. Since you also seem to take my word with a grain of salt, we can just wait a couple weeks and see what pops up on SureFire's website.



OK Robin, hope you are right and SF delivers whether or not they put them on the website! :thumbsup:


----------



## FlashSpyJ

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Could someone please try if a cell extender fits this light??


----------



## naked2

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Robin24k said:


> Customer service is not always the most informed, so I would take that with a grain of salt. Since you also seem to take my word with a grain of salt, we can just wait a couple weeks and see what pops up on SureFire's website.


I didn't take your word "with a grain of salt"; I just spoke to SureFire *before* you replied to my post.


----------



## nikon

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



FlashSpyJ said:


> Could someone please try if a cell extender fits this light??



I don't have a Fury but I just tried it with my G2X. A cell extender fits and the tailcap works properly. The current draw on high with 9v. is a couple hundred mA less that it is with 6v., indicating that the light is OK for use with 9v.


----------



## arcane

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

SF has had my Fury for a week now for repair/replacement...
They're only 30mi away from me. I feel like going there and asking what's taking them so long. 

And yes an extender does fit. The tailcaps on the Fury and G2X are interchangeable with Z41 tailcaps.


----------



## FlashSpyJ

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Hmm..

I´m not after to run the light with anything other than two standard batteries...I just want to know if an extender would fit since I want to ad some length to the light!


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Your looking at about three weeks to a month. Or you may get yours quicker. That's how long mine took to get back to me, but it was worth the wait. 



arcane said:


> SF has had my Fury for a week now for repair/replacement...
> They're only 30mi away from me. I feel like going there and asking what's taking them so long.


----------



## jh333233

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



wrueckert said:


> Hey all, first post, unfortunately it has to be a negative one, but I figured I better share this: Just got my Fury after waiting about a month on back order, I was working on a hot water heater when my brand new light rolled off the top and landed on the concrete floor (maybe 4 foot fall) and now it has a nice crack in the glass. So now my new Fury is already headed to the shop after less than 24 hours of play time. I've dropped plenty of Surefire's from much higher, never had an issue before, I'm hoping I just got a defective lens and this isn't some oversight in the changeover from plastic to glass
> 
> SN A96814 for those keeping track of changeover.
> 
> And thanks for the awesome treasure trove of photon knowledge by the way!



Head-on collision with lens, SureFire becomes Surely-dead Fire, like all glassware.


----------



## arcane

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



GLOCK 22 said:


> Your looking at about three weeks to a month. Or you may get yours quicker. That's how long mine took to get back to me, but it was worth the wait.


got my Fury back today! domed lens on the emitter is flawless.
SF had it for 8 business days.


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

:thumbsup:Glad to hear you got yours back so fast, ended up a good turn around for you after all.




arcane said:


> got my Fury back today! domed lens on the emitter is flawless.
> SF had it for 8 business days.


----------



## walternash

I just got my Fury thru Brightguy. Low price and rapid delivery.

I also have an E1b Backup. I prefer the higher power coming on first. The on/off button on the Fury has a longer throw and more resistance that the Backup, making it less convenient to use.

Powerful little devil, though.


----------



## JasonC8301

I just got mine today, awaiting darkness.


----------



## FlashSpyJ

Last try guys... 

So a standard 1" extender won't fit this light??


----------



## Helmut.G

Hey FlashSpyJ, look at post #677, another confirmation that it will fit.

If you're not confident get a solarforce extender, they are like 5 bucks, look cheap, work ok, not much lost if it wouldn't fit.


----------



## FlashSpyJ

Doh! I did'n see that... 

Thanks!


----------



## Litbobber

Hi all,

Anyone know where to get a lanyard or a pocketclip for the fury?

Thanks


----------



## Tana

Malkoff now offers stainless steel pocket clips that can fit Fury, among swarms of other P/C/M/D/MD/etc series...


----------



## jh333233

Litbobber said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Anyone know where to get a lanyard or a pocketclip for the fury?
> 
> Thanks



Surefire has factory lanyard for P-tailcapped light
For the clip, you must seek a 3rd party manufacturer


----------



## Glock 22

The Dark Sucks pocket clip works perfect on the Fury. I have one and you can also use a lanyard if you want to. I believe its what your looking for. PM sent.




Litbobber said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Anyone know where to get a lanyard or a pocketclip for the fury?
> 
> Thanks


----------



## bfksc

shramj said:


> I know they are backordered at BJ but I was able to find it online at Nalpak for $108.50 and if you use code "sureship" you will get discounted shipping. I order it yesterday and they were able to ship it out yesterday as well so it seems like they are on top of their stuff over there. I should have mine tomorrow and then I can post my thoughts on the light after I play with it.


Anyone know if this light is available in Canada, or a seller who can ship it here at a reasonable cost?


----------



## Litbobber

Thanks in response to the pocketclip question guys.


----------



## kyhunter1

Felt a little brave and ran my Fury on 2 AW RCR123's. Ran just fine and cut off after ~ 27 minutes. It get's ~ 40 minutes on a AW17650. It is noticeably brighter on the RCR's, which tells that it is dropping out of regulation some on the 17650. The guy that asked about the Fury and extenders may not have such a bad idea seeing that running the Fury on 2x17500's could be a real possibility. What do you all think?


----------



## Zippy1685

*Frankly, a little disappointed...*

After three months on backorder, my Fury finally arrived from Battery Junction. I must say that I feel a little disappointed. 

This is a premium flashlight at a premium price, and yet the quality is quite a bit lower than some other flashlights I own. For one thing, the threads on the tail cap weren't polished very well, meaning it's rough when you unscrew it. This doesn't diminish one iota from the functioning of the light, but I would expect better finishing for the price.

Secondly, my LED is not set dead center in the reflector. It sits to one side. It's not enough to really effect the output, but c'mon. 

Thirdly, yes the lens is glass, but it's not very thick. I could definitely see it cracking from a fall.

Finally, I am very disappointed with the green tint, especially noticeable in the low power setting. I have come to the conclusion that this is not the actual LED output itself. The problem is that the entire circuit board underneath is visible when you look down the reflector. The green tint is caused by the light reflecting off the green circuit board. Even the reflector looks green when you peer down into it with illumination behind you. To me this is unforgivable in a premium flashlight. All they had to do was make the reflector small enough to reveal only the LED lens or cover the green board with something. Of course, this is also Cree's fault for using such a bright green board in the first place. Why not use something neutrally colored?

I just cannot forgive these lapses in quality and design in a premium flashlight. I have an Inova X03 which beats the pants off the Fury in every single quality aspect, though the output is considerably less. It has none of the above issues and retails for almost 1/3 the price of the Fury. C'mon Surefire, you can do better.


----------



## bfksc

*Re: Frankly, a little disappointed...*



Zippy1685 said:


> After three months on backorder, my Fury finally arrived...I must say that I feel a little disappointed...I am very disappointed with the green tint


This is something that has been annoying me lately too. I have been considering the P2X as I like the UI (no twisty action) and the high output. But I'm not happy with the tint of many LEDs since the XP-G emitter came along. I have a $15 cheapie light from Home Depot with a CREE emitter that has a nice even white tint, not cool, not warm, not neutral either, just a clean white tint. Yet every light I've bought over $50 has a green tint, including XP-G R5 CW, XP-G R4 NW, and XM-L T5 NW. A friend had the Quark XP-G S2 and it was so off tint it was like the green from an RGB emitter! To hear that a $155 (CDN) Surefire has a green tinted emitter in the Fury is the nail in the coffin for me. I won't be buying one without first checking the tint. In fact, I have now sworn off Quark lights for the same reason. I recently bought a Quark X 123x2 in Neutral White and it looks like a regular cool white with a green tint. I'm actually concerned that the emitter is NOT a T5 NW as it should be, and since there is no marking on the head there is no way to know if I got a CW instead of a NW except to compare with other white lights (I'm into photography so I have colour charts that help to determine actual colour rendition of lights). So now I don't know what to buy...tint lottery within a flux range is one thing. But it seems there are more green than white tints these days, and I'm not paying good money for a puke-green light anymore. I like neutral white actually, but if it's a green NW I'm not interested. For the price of the Surefire lights, you'd think they would carefully select tint bins and make sure they're consistent. But if they don't, then why pay so much for a light that doesn't satisfy.
YMMV.


----------



## Zippy1685

I'm really not sure it's the actual tint of the light. When you look dead center in the beam against a wall on low power setting, the light is as white as most, but it's surrounded by a green tinted halo. This is why I think it has more to do with not covering the green circuit board underneath. The Inova X03 I used for comparison has a much narrower opening at the bottom so that only the LED lens can be seen and not the board underneath. Several cheapie flashlights I own use a mirrored reflector to cover the board. 

The X03 definitely has no discernible tint to me. It's a brilliant white. When I compare the center of the beam of the X03 vs the Fury, the light is similar. The difference is that the Fury beam is surrounded by a pronounced green halo. Maybe the XM-L gets too hot to use a cover over the board. If that's the case, then Cree should use a different colored board. It's not like green is the only color in which you can buy boards. If heat isn't the problem then it is Surefire's mistake for not covering it in some way.

Overall, I still think the Fury is an impressive flashlight. The green tint is not pronounced in high power mode, but it's annoying at low setting. I also don't think it's made like junk, but definitely not up to what I think Surefire standards should be.


----------



## Glock 22

That's awesome. After you posting this. I also got up the nerve and tried the 2 AW RCR123's. I done two burn time tests and both times I got ~32 minutes at full output before it cut off, no regulation dropping. There in it right now. Thanks kyhunter1 for taking a chance on your Fury, with these rechargeables.





kyhunter1 said:


> Felt a little brave and ran my Fury on 2 AW RCR123's. Ran just fine and cut off after ~ 27 minutes. It get's ~ 40 minutes on a AW17650. It is noticeably brighter on the RCR's, which tells that it is dropping out of regulation some on the 17650. The guy that asked about the Fury and extenders may not have such a bad idea seeing that running the Fury on 2x17500's could be a real possibility. What do you all think?


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

> Thanks kyhunter1 for taking a chance on your Fury, with these rechargeables.



Now you've done it! 

Standby for the usual CPF admonitions about using rechargeables on SureFires. You'll void your warranty, you'll burn out the emitter, you'll go blind etc. Unless, of course, you use the special unreleased SF rechargeables in which case everything is fine. :thumbsup:

Since the current levels on the XP-G lights are approaching the limits of the batteries, I'm more comfortable with the single cell rechargeable configuration when it is an option, e.g. the 17670 on the Fury.


----------



## kyhunter1

Surefire rechargeablility has always been sublime, that's why I took matters into my own hands. AW batteries all the way for me when not using primaries. If it ever burns out, no big deal as long as I have the cash to mod it. A burnt out Surefire and voided warranty is a very good excuse for modding. It will be a much better light in the end. Copper heatsink, different reflector, new driver, maybe even a optic, premium bin and tint emmitter, etc., you all get the picture. With the larger head, maybe a quad XPG or even a triple XML. :naughty:


----------



## Helmut.G

If a flashlight uses a regulated step-down (voltage-lowering) driver like nearly all LED 2xCR123 lights do, it will handle the higher voltage of 2xLi-Ion (or 3xCR123) just fine in almost all cases. (I thought this is common knowledge around here).

If you try it and the brightness and function is apparently the same then there's no reason whatsoever to worry about premature failure.

You would definitely notice after a short time if the light couldn't handle it.


----------



## TEEJ

I guess I can take out the Primaries and swap in some Secondaries.


----------



## Robin24k

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> OK Robin, hope you are right and SF delivers whether or not they put them on the website! :thumbsup:


Got a little update... :thumbsup:

http://www.surefire.com/batteries/sf2r-kit01-charger-kit.html

http://www.surefire.com/batteries/2-pack-lfp123-rechargeable-batteries.html


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Thanks Robin24k for the info. Ordered a set.



Robin24k said:


> Got a little update... :thumbsup:
> 
> http://www.surefire.com/batteries/sf2r-kit01-charger-kit.html
> 
> http://www.surefire.com/batteries/2-pack-lfp123-rechargeable-batteries.html


----------



## 67RS/SSx2

Please indulge the newb question (notice this is my first post). I recently purchased my first REAL flashlight, a SF G2X Pro. I absolutely love the light! I only use it for utilitarian/general purpose.

I read this thread from post #1 and registered to this forum because I have an itchin' for a SF Fury. My question is where do you find a SF serial number? I do not see one on my G2X Pro.

Thanks,


----------



## Glock 22

The serial number can be found on the fury, on the side where the Surefire logo is. For instance my serial number is A69242. Hope this answers your question.



67RS/SSx2 said:


> I read this thread from post #1 and registered to this forum because I have an itchin' for a SF Fury. My question is where do you find a SF serial number? I do not see one on my G2X Pro.
> Thanks,


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

G2Xs have no serial number.

:welcome:


----------



## TEEJ

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

OK, I swapped in some RCR's and the Fury ran like a champ...no fried drivers, etc.


----------



## deklan

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



TEEJ said:


> OK, I swapped in some RCR's and the Fury ran like a champ...no fried drivers, etc.



Interesting! Any visible increase in output?


----------



## GhostMeat

kyhunter1 said:


> Surefire rechargeablility has always been sublime, that's why I took matters into my own hands. AW batteries all the way for me when not using primaries. If it ever burns out, no big deal as long as I have the cash to mod it. A burnt out Surefire and voided warranty is a very good excuse for modding. It will be a much better light in the end. Copper heatsink, different reflector, new driver, maybe even a optic, premium bin and tint emmitter, etc., you all get the picture. With the larger head, maybe a quad XPG or even a triple XML. :naughty:




I am also very interested in using rechargeables with my Fury and noted a few of your posts about using AW RCR123s. I had put in some crummy protected Tenergy RCR123s and the light only stays on for a few minutes and then, I think, the batteries protection circuit shuts them off. I think that's what's happening.

A buddy of mine is absolutely convinced that there's very little danger to the Fury LED chip (since a CREE XM-L can be driven pretty hard?) and wants to throw in some of his better 3.7v batteries. I'm no electrical engineer, but that sounds like a bad idea, right? Just because we can use 3.7v RCRs in other CREE XM-L lights doesn't mean we can put them in Surefire's, right? I take it there's something _else _inside these Surefire lights that gets burnt out?

Regarding your _earlier _post about using AWs and getting 27 minutes of runtime out of your Fury... I just ordered some AW RCR123s for another light of mine -- what is it about AWs that allows you to run your Fury for that long? Is the battery itself smart in that it lowers its voltage?


----------



## pjandyho

GhostMeat said:


> I am also very interested in using rechargeables with my Fury and noted a few of your posts about using AW RCR123s. I had put in some crummy protected Tenergy RCR123s and the light only stays on for a few minutes and then, I think, the batteries protection circuit shuts them off. I think that's what's happening.
> 
> A buddy of mine is absolutely convinced that there's very little danger to the Fury LED chip (since a CREE XM-L can be driven pretty hard?) and wants to throw in some of his better 3.7v batteries. I'm no electrical engineer, but that sounds like a bad idea, right? Just because we can use 3.7v RCRs in other CREE XM-L lights doesn't mean we can put them in Surefire's, right? I take it there's something _else _inside these Surefire lights that gets burnt out?
> 
> Regarding your _earlier _post about using AWs and getting 27 minutes of runtime out of your Fury... I just ordered some AW RCR123s for another light of mine -- what is it about AWs that allows you to run your Fury for that long? Is the battery itself smart in that it lowers its voltage?


Yes you are right. Just because XM-L can take the added voltage does not necessarily mean that the electronic circuitry could. Unless Surefire specify the voltage range of the electronics within, it is more or less a "use it at your own risk" kind of situation. Just take for example, many have tried RCR123s in the E2DL and claimed that it works but a small handful have reported problems when running RCR123. I personally have tried running RCR123 in mine and have no problems but I am not sure if prolonged usage would cause any issues later on. Only you can weigh the worthiness of the risk involved.


----------



## Robin24k

It could be shutting off due to the current draw (it's about 1.2A), which would be an issue with the batteries. We got 30 minutes of runtime with SureFire's LFP123A's, so you might want to take a look at those. They're much safer than 3.7V Li-Ion, but do require a special charger.


----------



## kyhunter1

Spot on. 



pjandyho said:


> Yes you are right. Just because XM-L can take the added voltage does not necessarily mean that the electronic circuitry could. Unless Surefire specify the voltage range of the electronics within, it is more or less a "use it at your own risk" kind of situation. Just take for example, many have tried RCR123s in the E2DL and claimed that it works but a small handful have reported problems when running RCR123. I personally have tried running RCR123 in mine and have no problems but I am not sure if prolonged usage would cause any issues later on. Only you can weigh the worthiness of the risk involved.




I caution you to use at your own risk and understand that a damaged light is a real possibility. OTH, mine appears to have zero issues handling the two AW cells. We have figured out that the Fury appears to have a buck circuit. Buck circuit's are typically safe to 9 volts, and with the Fury's XML too, there should not be any problems using the rcr's with it. If it were a boost, then 2xrcr's is a no go. As far as the runtime difference, it's all about using quality cells. AW cells have higher actual mah capacities and can be driven to a higher current drain for longer than your typical "crappy brand" rcr cells. 




GhostMeat said:


> I am also very interested in using rechargeables with my Fury and noted a few of your posts about using AW RCR123s. I had put in some crummy protected Tenergy RCR123s and the light only stays on for a few minutes and then, I think, the batteries protection circuit shuts them off. I think that's what's happening.
> 
> A buddy of mine is absolutely convinced that there's very little danger to the Fury LED chip (since a CREE XM-L can be driven pretty hard?) and wants to throw in some of his better 3.7v batteries. I'm no electrical engineer, but that sounds like a bad idea, right? Just because we can use 3.7v RCRs in other CREE XM-L lights doesn't mean we can put them in Surefire's, right? I take it there's something _else _inside these Surefire lights that gets burnt out?
> 
> Regarding your _earlier _post about using AWs and getting 27 minutes of runtime out of your Fury... I just ordered some AW RCR123s for another light of mine -- what is it about AWs that allows you to run your Fury for that long? Is the battery itself smart in that it lowers its voltage?


----------



## TEEJ

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



deklan said:


> Interesting! Any visible increase in output?



It looked ~ the same to me....~ 500 lumens....but I didn't have the lumen measuring device handy to be sure.

On the other hand the Klarus XT11 I did the same swap on to test jumped from a stepped down ~ 500 L on an 18650, to a stepped down 850 L on the RCRs (I don't know the pre-stepped down/turbo #'s)....but LOOKED a hell of a lot brighter visually so the lumen measurement done merely gave an empirical # for the brightness.


So, running the Fury on RCR's will be to avoid buying tons of primaries for it, rather than for performance. The Fury's beam is REALLY useful, a nice combination of throw and flood. I like it a lot.


----------



## kyhunter1

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

A very useful bright light with a excellent beam. RCR's save money. When carrying my Fury, I always keep a tube with two primaries in my pocket for back up if the protection circuit cuts off with the RCR's. As far as performance, the Fury does not drop in brightness at all when using the RCR's till the abrupt cut off. Brightness does fall off some with primaries before it completely goes out of regulation. You will have the Lo mode for a while till the cells are completely drained which is an advantage with using primaries over the RCR's. 



TEEJ said:


> .....
> So, running the Fury on RCR's will be to avoid buying tons of primaries for it, rather than for performance. The Fury's beam is REALLY useful, a nice combination of throw and flood. I like it a lot.


----------



## deklan

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



TEEJ said:


> It looked ~ the same to me....~ 500 lumens....but I didn't have the lumen measuring device handy to be sure.
> 
> On the other hand the Klarus XT11 I did the same swap on to test jumped from a stepped down ~ 500 L on an 18650, to a stepped down 850 L on the RCRs (I don't know the pre-stepped down/turbo #'s)....but LOOKED a hell of a lot brighter visually so the lumen measurement done merely gave an empirical # for the brightness.
> 
> 
> So, running the Fury on RCR's will be to avoid buying tons of primaries for it, rather than for performance. The Fury's beam is REALLY useful, a nice combination of throw and flood. I like it a lot.



Thanks for the reply!


----------



## Robin24k

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I don't know about 3.7V Li-Ion, but from my runtime test of the Fury, it seems that LiFePO4 is initially 3% brighter, with the gap widening as the cells discharge.


----------



## lightphysics

Helmut.G said:


> If a flashlight uses a regulated step-down (voltage-lowering) driver like nearly all LED 2xCR123 lights do, it will handle the higher voltage of 2xLi-Ion (or 3xCR123) just fine in almost all cases. (I thought this is common knowledge around here).
> 
> If you try it and the brightness and function is apparently the same then there's no reason whatsoever to worry about premature failure.
> 
> You would definitely notice after a short time if the light couldn't handle it.



I agree. Unfortunately, there is a lot of misinformation here. Basically its easy to ensure that you are not pushing too much watts out of that flashlight. I recently did this test with a buddies flashlight and he did not like it. He is convinced that if surefire says do not use RCR123, you will damage it. If I was running surefire, I may say that too since many of the RCRs that are cheap, will overcharge and damage your flashlight and they do not want to deal with the headache, nor the fact that RCRs break down eventually and they have to deal with the support. Anyway, I only use rechargeables, but make sure the flashlight can take it. 

Here is the test you can do to confirm I am right. Go to my post here. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?142257-Surefire-G2-with-3.7v-1000mah-((BOOM))


----------



## lightphysics

The battery does not drop its voltage if smart. The voltage drop (if there is any) will be due to your smart circuit.


----------



## lightphysics

kyhunter1 said:


> Spot on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I caution you to use at your own risk and understand that a damaged light is a real possibility. OTH, mine appears to have zero issues handling the two AW cells. We have figured out that the Fury appears to have a buck circuit. Buck circuit's are typically safe to 9 volts, and with the Fury's XML too, there should not be any problems using the rcr's with it. If it were a boost, then 2xrcr's is a no go. As far as the runtime difference, it's all about using quality cells. AW cells have higher actual mah capacities and can be driven to a higher current drain for longer than your typical "crappy brand" rcr cells.



I am surprised to see all the experts say so much without any scientific backup. At least you (kyhunter1) have touched on what is important unlike many here. The key as you say is the "circuit". I tested the 2012 XM-L Fury and the circuit will sense the extra volts. Then drop the amount of Amps drawn. Hence compensate for the Watts. In fact, many THINK that running the higher voltage will give them more lumens and while this may be the case in some other flashlights, this IS NOT the case in the Fury.

*Here is Why?*
The lumens can be measured by measuring your Watts used. Refer to my post here to do your own measurement. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?142257-Surefire-G2-with-3.7v-1000mah-((BOOM))

If you measure your Fury, you will see that the actual measured Amps will be lower when using rechargeables with higher voltage. Multiply that number by your volts and you will have your Watts. Then refer to the cree specs http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED Components and Modules/XLamp/Data and Binning/XLampXML.pdf and do the math or go to link above to see details of the math.

The circuit of most of the the XM-Ls ranges from 8.7 to 12.4 volts unless you are getting knockoffs. So your are right in that it is safe. About runtime, you are right again as the runtime will be directly related to your battery milliamps stored. Another factor that comes into play is that the "crapy brands" are suppose to be made up of old laptop batteries. I have no proof of this, but if true then this would explain why the shorter life. 

*Here is Why?*
Batteries that are made out of carbon and lithium use an atomic bond which translates into a lot of energy. For eg. the old car battery (lead and acid) can store only 25 watt-hours per kilogram while the lithium battery can store 150 watt hours per 1kg or 2.2 lbs. Without getting into the detail of the electrons and how they work, these batteries start denaturing or degrading as time passes. Heat is among one factor that you break them. So if you use these rechargeables in a flashlight, heat is directly reducing its life while disposables are used once. Lithium-ion batteries loose about 5 yo 10 percent charge per month compared to 20 percent for nickel metal hydride. In the 4.1 volt batteries that are protected, self discharge will lead to circuit getting cut off between 2.4 and 2.8. This will make your battery fail. Except SOME chargers have a boost function to restart these batteries that seem to be dead. One good and cheap one that I use is the Eneloop (for AA). Most cheaper chargers will do that, but I only use the cheap chargers to "wake up" the battery. Then use the smart chargers. Another thing I recommend is to look at is how far you discharge. The less you discharge, the longer their life.


----------



## kyhunter1

Thanks for your scientific reply. This info really confirms my findings with the FURY.


----------



## Justin Case

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



Size15's said:


> SureFire may also release a single-output version of the Fury (P2X-A) with simply the 500 lumen output.



The current Fury can be mod'ed for single mode (high) without having to disassemble the head or swap the driver.


----------



## Justin Case

kyhunter1 said:


> I caution you to use at your own risk and understand that a damaged light is a real possibility. OTH, mine appears to have zero issues handling the two AW cells. We have figured out that the Fury appears to have a buck circuit. Buck circuit's are typically safe to 9 volts, and with the Fury's XML too, there should not be any problems using the rcr's with it. If it were a boost, then 2xrcr's is a no go. As far as the runtime difference, it's all about using quality cells. AW cells have higher actual mah capacities and can be driven to a higher current drain for longer than your typical "crappy brand" rcr cells.



Post deleted.


----------



## Justin Case

lightphysics said:


> I am surprised to see all the experts say so much without any scientific backup. At least you (kyhunter1) have touched on what is important unlike many here. The key as you say is the "circuit". I tested the 2012 XM-L Fury and the circuit will sense the extra volts. Then drop the amount of Amps drawn. Hence compensate for the Watts. In fact, many THINK that running the higher voltage will give them more lumens and while this may be the case in some other flashlights, this IS NOT the case in the Fury.



Post deleted.


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



Justin Case said:


> The current Fury can be mod'ed for single mode (high) without having to disassemble the head or swap the driver.



Please explain...is it reversible as well? I would rather have a single high mode with my Fury. Will it void the warrantee?


----------



## kyhunter1

Well maybe im wrong about my assumptions on the voltage, but... My Fury seems to have no problems using RCR's. Tell me more about the single mode deal you mentioned?


----------



## Glock 22

I got the new rechargables that Surefire is selling and I can only get ~25 minutes of burntime on the Fury at full output, then dims way down, and starts flashing. I got better runtime on my AW Protected RCR's ~32 minutes and my 17670 between ~35 to ~38 minutes at full output. Not impressed with the ones Surefire is selling at all. The charger is already giving me trouble.


----------



## Helmut.G

GLOCK 22 said:


> I got the new rechargables that Surefire is selling and I can only get ~25 minutes of burntime on the Fury at full output, then dims way down, and starts flashing. I got better runtime on my AW Protected RCR's ~32 minutes and my 17670 between ~35 to ~38 minutes at full output. Not impressed with the ones Surefire is selling at all. The charger is already giving me trouble.


Isn't it kind of obvious that a 1.9 Watt hour rated battery will give less runtime than one rated 2.8 Wh? You could have known that before buying.


----------



## Justin Case

GLOCK 22 said:


> I got the new rechargables that Surefire is selling and I can only get ~25 minutes of burntime on the Fury at full output, then dims way down, and starts flashing. I got better runtime on my AW Protected RCR's ~32 minutes and my 17670 between ~35 to ~38 minutes at full output. Not impressed with the ones Surefire is selling at all. The charger is already giving me trouble.



Post deleted.


----------



## Glock 22

Yeah that's true. But my real purpose in buying these SF is selling was becasuse they was stated at 3.2 volts and I was going to run them in my M31N. But that's a no go.



Helmut.G said:


> Isn't it kind of obvious that a 1.9 Watt hour rated battery will give less runtime than one rated 2.8 Wh? You could have known that before buying.



Thanks for the good info, I now have a better understanding. I may pick me up two AW IMR16340s and give them a try. A 18350 want fit. The IMR's are a safer cells right?



Justin Case said:


> To get to 500 lumens OTF, I'd guess that you'd have to drive an XM-L fairly hard, or around 2A to 3A depending on flux bin. That is also consistent with draining a 17670 in about 1/2 hr. For that magnitude of If, your Vf could be 3.2V or higher. I doubt that the SureFire driver has a low enough voltage overhead to get you into full regulation when using 1x17670.
> 
> The issue with using regular AW Li-ions is that you are pulling relatively a lot of current from those small cells. If we generously assume 90% driver efficiency, If of 2.5A, Vf of 3.25V, Vbatt of 7.4V, then
> 
> Ibatt = Vf*If/(Vbatt*efficiency) = 3.25V*2.5A/(7.4V*0.9) = 1.2A
> 
> You are close to the 2C limit, which means your cycle life is probably going to suffer somewhat. Realistically, maybe that doesn't matter. But I'd probably use AW IMR16340s. If they could fit, I'd go with AW IMR18350s.


----------



## Robin24k

Lithium phosphate batteries are never intended to compete in the performance aspect. Their main advantage is safety, and not requiring protection circuitry leads to a couple other added benefits such as no sudden cut-off and also the ability to use lower output modes after higher output modes go out of regulation. There's really no significant difference between the runtimes of 25, 32, and 35 minutes...in actual use, it's not going to be noticeable, plus, you won't be left in the dark abruptly since you can still use the low mode.

I know you're hesitant about trying these out in the single-cell M31N, but I really don't expect an issue with lithium phosphate batteries and boost-only circuits. With even a moderate drain, the LED module won't see the full open circuit voltage of 3.6V. Usually boost circuits are fine up to 3.3-3.5V, depending on the forward voltage of the LED, but if you really want to be sure, check with the manufacturer and ask specifically about LiFePO4.


----------



## TEEJ

lightphysics said:


> I am surprised to see all the experts say so much without any scientific backup. At least you (kyhunter1) have touched on what is important unlike many here. The key as you say is the "circuit". I tested the 2012 XM-L Fury and the circuit will sense the extra volts. Then drop the amount of Amps drawn. Hence compensate for the Watts. In fact, many THINK that running the higher voltage will give them more lumens and while this may be the case in some other flashlights, this IS NOT the case in the Fury.
> 
> *Here is Why?*
> The lumens can be measured by measuring your Watts used. Refer to my post here to do your own measurement. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?142257-Surefire-G2-with-3.7v-1000mah-((BOOM))
> 
> If you measure your Fury, you will see that the actual measured Amps will be lower when using rechargeables with higher voltage. Multiply that number by your volts and you will have your Watts. Then refer to the cree specs http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED Components and Modules/XLamp/Data and Binning/XLampXML.pdf and do the math or go to link above to see details of the math.
> 
> The circuit of most of the the XM-Ls ranges from 8.7 to 12.4 volts unless you are getting knockoffs. So your are right in that it is safe. About runtime, you are right again as the runtime will be directly related to your battery milliamps stored. Another factor that comes into play is that the "crapy brands" are suppose to be made up of old laptop batteries. I have no proof of this, but if true then this would explain why the shorter life.
> 
> *Here is Why?*
> Batteries that are made out of carbon and lithium use an atomic bond which translates into a lot of energy. For eg. the old car battery (lead and acid) can store only 25 watt-hours per kilogram while the lithium battery can store 150 watt hours per 1kg or 2.2 lbs. Without getting into the detail of the electrons and how they work, these batteries start denaturing or degrading as time passes. Heat is among one factor that you break them. So if you use these rechargeables in a flashlight, heat is directly reducing its life while disposables are used once. Lithium-ion batteries loose about 5 yo 10 percent charge per month compared to 20 percent for nickel metal hydride. In the 4.1 volt batteries that are protected, self discharge will lead to circuit getting cut off between 2.4 and 2.8. This will make your battery fail. Except SOME chargers have a boost function to restart these batteries that seem to be dead. One good and cheap one that I use is the Eneloop (for AA). Most cheaper chargers will do that, but I only use the cheap chargers to "wake up" the battery. Then use the smart chargers. Another thing I recommend is to look at is how far you discharge. The less you discharge, the longer their life.



That is in agreement with my observation that the light did not appear brighter on RCR123's ...and the primary benefit is cutting the need to buy an endless supply of primaries to run the light.


----------



## Justin Case

TEEJ said:


> That is in agreement with my observation that the light did not appear brighter on RCR123's ...and the primary benefit is cutting the need to buy an endless supply of primaries to run the light.



Post deleted.


----------



## kyhunter1

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

Dont leave us hanging, you gotta to tell us more about this. 




Justin Case said:


> The current Fury can be mod'ed for single mode (high) without having to disassemble the head or swap the driver.


----------



## tobrien

so is surefire still making these with the low output as its first mode when it comes on?


----------



## Lodogg2221

tobrien said:


> so is surefire still making these with the low output as its first mode when it comes on?


Yes, but supposedly there will be single mode lights and the opposite mode lights available too. Im thinking they mentioned an interface similar to the current LX2...low first then press further for high.

If I could only recall where I read that....darn CRS...


----------



## Robin24k

There are supposed to be new Fury variants due at the end of the month, which are Defender, Tactical, and CombatLight versions, but I haven't heard anything about two-stage tail caps.


----------



## Dingle1911

So I am still hanging. Is there a way to run the Fury in single mode? A two-stage switch. Like the LX2 would be my first choice. I am still happy with my light though.


----------



## Justin Case

If someone can post a photo showing the bottom of the driver in the head, that would help.


----------



## kyhunter1

Justin Case said:


> If someone can post a photo showing the bottom of the driver in the head, that would help.


----------



## Justin Case

Post deleted.


----------



## kyhunter1

Are you talking about the thin brass string that goes between the two little holes? This mod looks to be farely simple, but Im scared it would not be reversible. Are you sure it would work correctly?


----------



## Justin Case

Post deleted.


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

So who has the guts to try it?


----------



## kyhunter1

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Any chance of it ending up single mode lo only? That would be a real bummer.


----------



## Helmut.G

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Doing the same modification to the circuit should get the same result on every light.
If you'd still end up with a result you don't like you could try to re-bridge it with solder.


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

It sure is tempting.




Toohotruk said:


> So who has the guts to try it?


----------



## Justin Case

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



kyhunter1 said:


> Any chance of it ending up single mode lo only? That would be a real bummer.



Post deleted.


----------



## mcoccia

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Confirmed. I didn't have a blade handy so I used a small screwdriver to scratch away the copper. This also resolved my problem of sometimes needing two or three clicks to go from low to high.


----------



## kyhunter1

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Double confirmed! I always hated lo first, problem solved. If it were hi then lo, I would not have done the mod. Thanks Justincase! Here is a after pic.


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Awesome, sounds like to me a lot more of Fury's out there will be Hi mode only.


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

Now I may have to do that to my Fury...only thing that sucks is I'm sure it voids the warrantee. I'll have to think about it, it really would be nice to have a single mode Fury though.

Thanks for the info Justin! :thumbsup:


----------



## Justin Case

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

Post deleted.


----------



## kyhunter1

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

You got me thinking now. Could you use the resistor to do a even lower moon mode?


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



kyhunter1 said:


> You got me thinking now. Could you use the resistor to do a even lower moon mode?



Also, a couple of possible candidate traces for single mode are visible in the heads of the SF 6PX/G2X lights. I have several but they are all the two-level 'Pro' versions. Anybody able to compare with the 'Tactical' version of the 6PX/G2X to see if one of these traces is missing or cut?


----------



## cland72

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

Got my Fury late last week. I have yet to get it out in the "dark dark" (I live in a well lit suburb) but so far it is impressive. The low is a perfect, long running general task light and the high absolutely lights up a dark living room. I would say it's the E2DL's big brother (more output & larger, with floodier beam). 

Only thing I don't like about it is the anti roll bezel should be more pronounced. I'm so used to my 6P that when I sit down the Fury it tends to do up to one revolution before the bezels slow it down enough to stop rolling.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



cland72 said:


> Only thing I don't like about it is the anti roll bezel should be more pronounced. I'm so used to my 6P that when I sit down the Fury it tends to do up to one revolution before the bezels slow it down enough to stop rolling.



I agree on that one, the Fury drop tests itself way too easily when put on its side on a table.


----------



## TEEJ

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> I agree on that one, the Fury drop tests itself way too easily when put on its side on a table.



It has the groove for a clip. An anti-roll ring/tactical ring could go there...and that would also allow syringe grip too, etc.



For example, for Sheets and Giggles, I swapped on the Klarus XT11 tactical ring, and it fits perfectly:













That means almost any 1" weapon mount light ring is probably a match too.


----------



## Kestrel

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

I don't keep up with this thread, but I do like the 'high mode only' mod. :thumbsup: I'd prefer that over a 'low-first' Fury, myself.

Also, regarding the Voltage(2xCR123) vs Voltage(2xLiIon), I would hope that SF might think about making a *3x*CR123 Fury at some point ...? From a manufacturing point of view, simply designing the buck driver to handle a slightly higher input voltage might be more expedient in the long term. That way, another driver design isn't necessary, and in fact identical heads could be used for both (hypothetical) body lengths during manufacture. Logical, and it's still less wierd IMO than the SF T1A having a buck-boost driver instead of the boost-only driver that was first assumed. :shrug:


----------



## Robin24k

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Also, a couple of possible candidate traces for single mode are visible in the heads of the SF 6PX/G2X lights. I have several but they are all the two-level 'Pro' versions. Anybody able to compare with the 'Tactical' version of the 6PX/G2X to see if one of these traces is missing or cut?


Go to 1:35 in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svdXGETH41M


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



Robin24k said:


> Go to 1:35 in this video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svdXGETH41M



Thanks Robin24! I can't quite convince myself whether or not the traces are the same from the video. Can anyone else tell?


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

I agree it's hard to tell if the traces are the same in the video. I just can't tell for sure myself.



Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Thanks Robin24! I can't quite convince myself whether or not the traces are the same from the video. Can anyone else tell?


----------



## shramj

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

I'm trying to get a grip on what rechargables I can use in the Fury. I currently have the TL-100 to charge my 18650's for my other lights and I know I can't use the 18650 in the Fury. But has anyone used the Ultrafire rechargable 3.6V 880mAh 16340's in their Fury? I would like to use these Ultrafire 16340's because I can charge them with my TL-100 charged instead of having to buy a whole new charger kit. Also, I was also looking at the Tenergy RCR 3.0V 900mAh or the Tenergry 3.0V 750mAh LiFePO4 if I can't use the Ultrafire 16340 in it. Any input/suggestions would be great. If it matters, I prefer higher output than total runtime if helps with making a suggestion. I also was reading and it sounds like the *ltrafires aren't really that safe and they may explode so I don't really know where to go as far as rechargables go, any input would be great.


----------



## lightphysics

** Off-topic post deleted - Kestrel **


----------



## Kestrel

Hello lightphysics, welcome to CPF.

I have deleted your prior post, as it was nearly all off-topic for this "SureFire Fury" thread.
Please feel free to create a new thread in the appropriate subforum if you would like to further explore topics such as these in a more theoretical aspect.
I would also recommend doing more research on CPF for supplementary background knowledge on these or other topics - you will find that others here have vast hands-on experience with some of these topics and might find many of their posts to be instructive reading.

Best regards,


Edit: FWIW, *RedForest UK* also has posted an illustrative reply below, much of which is helpful as it deals with specifics of the SureFire Fury. I hope that some of the below might be of assistance? Either way, let's please stay on-topic for this "SureFire Fury" thread.

Thanks everyone,


----------



## RedForest UK

@lightphysics: I see no problems with what pjandyho posted. I can see you know your physics and are trying to apply it to flashlight/circuit applications but most of what you say is irrelevant to the immediate topic and doesn't add anything more than a conceptual background to why these things work (which is good to know but can confuse people just wanting to know the functional implications of this). Most of your posts appear to have a primary purpose of you trying to show off what you know rather than actually use and apply that knowledge in a helpful explanation to others.

The question about whether you can use RCR123s in the Fury is a simple one. It does not depend on the LED vf or what the XM-L can take as what the XM-L gets is entirely dictated by the circuit output. If the light was run direct drive then the input from 2x 3v CR123 primaries would fry an XM-L in a few seconds anyway, so clearly it uses a buck driver to output a lower voltage to the LED (one matching the LED vf), as with most good buck drivers the current output is also regulated to keep the overall wattage going to the LED at each light level consistent throughout the batteries' discharge.

So, we know the Fury uses a buck circuit (else it couldn't take 2x 3v cells). The only question we need to answer is what the max voltage input of this particular circuit is. Different buck circuits with different components can take different max input voltages, and as far as I know without disassembly of the light and examining the circuit the only way we can tell what the max input voltage is is by testing progressively higher voltages and measuring the current draw (or brightness which indirectly also measures watt output) to see if the circuit can maintain regulation.

This is an empirical test, I don't know exactly what you mean when you say that certain statements are 'unscientific' etc, but a large number of empirical results of whether the light maintains regulation at 8.4v (2x RCR Li-ion) is the closest to scientific justification we are going to get here I think unless someone wants to tear the light down and analyse the components themselves.

Pjandyho makes the good point however (using the L2 as an analogy) that while a circuit may apparently be able to take an input of 8.4v (this would be apparent by it maintaining regulation at 8.4v) it may still not have been designed to do so originally and so running higher voltage cells in it may degrade the circuit much faster than running it with something totalling under it's designed max input voltage. 

This is clear already however to many in this thread who are now concerned primarily with working out what the max input voltage the P2X was designed for is, with Kestrel making the very good point that for surefire it may have been most pragmatic to use a circuit which could take > 9v input safely so they could use the Fury head on a 3 cell light later on.



_EDIT: I see Kestrel has deleted the original post as off-topic anyway. I'm not sure whether my post is also OT as it was a response or whether it contains any information which may be judged useful for the thread anyway. Please do whatever you see fit with it._


----------



## lightphysics

TEEJ said:


> That is in agreement with my observation that the light did not appear brighter on RCR123's ...and the primary benefit is cutting the need to buy an endless supply of primaries to run the light.



TEEJ,

Yes, its simple math to do a test, but you must know ahead of time that the circuit can take that voltage. After that, you measuring your watts will give you an idea which type of battery produces more light. The biggest mistake everyone makes is that they assume if you push more voltage, you will get more light. But if the flashlight regulates the current and hence gives less watts to the bulb, then less lumens.


----------



## 880arm

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Thanks Robin24! I can't quite convince myself whether or not the traces are the same from the video. Can anyone else tell?



The traces in the 6PX and G2X are different than what is in the Fury. However, I compared a 6PX Pro to a G2X Tactical and I think I can see what appears to be a "cut trace" on the G2X Tactical.

In the photos below, take a look at the trace at approximately the 9:00 position. The first photo is from a 6PX Pro and the second photo is from a G2X Tactical.


*6PX Pro* - Note the undisturbed trace at the 9:00 position






*G2X Tactical* - The trace at 9:00 appears to be "factory" cut. It's hard to see in the photo but there is a very definite scratch perpendicular to the trace that's about 1/4" long.





This G2X is the only Tactical version I have. I would feel stronger about this if someone else could verify this cut trace appears on theirs as well.


----------



## Justin Case

[Post deleted.


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



880arm said:


> ...This G2X is the only Tactical version I have. I would feel stronger about this if someone else could verify this cut trace appears on theirs as well.



My G2X Tactical has the factory cut as well...very interesting!


----------



## Justin Case

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*

Post deleted.


----------



## 880arm

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



Toohotruk said:


> My G2X Tactical has the factory cut as well...very interesting!



Thanks for checking. That makes two!



Justin Case said:


> Put some DMM probes on the Tactical to see if there is continuity across the trace. Presumably, you won't have continuity. Then bridge the trace with a wire and see if you get 6PX behavior.



I wanted to do that yesterday but I will have to leave that testing to someone who has gotten the head off of one of their 6PX/G2X Tactical lights.


----------



## Sean

*Re: Will Surefire improve on the Fury P2X-B?*



880arm said:


> The traces in the 6PX and G2X are different than what is in the Fury. However, I compared a 6PX Pro to a G2X Tactical and I think I can see what appears to be a "cut trace" on the G2X Tactical.
> 
> In the photos below, take a look at the trace at approximately the 9:00 position. The first photo is from a 6PX Pro and the second photo is from a G2X Tactical.
> 
> 
> *6PX Pro* - Note the undisturbed trace at the 9:00 position
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *G2X Tactical* - The trace at 9:00 appears to be "factory" cut. It's hard to see in the photo but there is a very definite scratch perpendicular to the trace that's about 1/4" long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This G2X is the only Tactical version I have. I would feel stronger about this if someone else could verify this cut trace appears on theirs as well.



I have a 6PX Tactical and the same trace on mine is cut. I tried to bridge the trace and it did make the light come on in low, but no amount of power cycling would get the light to switch modes from low to high while this trace was bridged. I wounder if there is something else missing from the tactical version (i.e. some electronic components) besides the cut trace to make it a two stage light?


----------



## happyguy82

Hi All,

I'm trying to find out which specific CREE XM-L LED the Fury uses. Is it the T-6 or U-2 or something else?

I'm sure it's been mentioned somewhere but I just can't find it at the moment.

Thanks.


----------



## aalite

Does the Fury use PWM on low mode like the Jetbeam BC40 or is it current controlled?


----------



## Dr. Strangelove

aalite said:


> Does the Fury use PWM on low mode like the Jetbeam BC40 or is it current controlled?



It's current controlled.


----------



## aalite

Dr. Strangelove said:


> It's current controlled.



That's good to hear. Looks like I'll be getting one soon. Thanks.


----------



## TEEJ

lightphysics said:


> TEEJ,
> 
> Yes, its simple math to do a test, but you must know ahead of time that the circuit can take that voltage. After that, you measuring your watts will give you an idea which type of battery produces more light. The biggest mistake everyone makes is that they assume if you push more voltage, you will get more light. But if the flashlight regulates the current and hence gives less watts to the bulb, then less lumens.



Your post is forgetting that we already know that we don't get more light from high voltage, and that the light is current controlled, and, that it doesn't HAVE a bulb.


----------



## Dr. Strangelove

aalite said:


> That's good to hear. Looks like I'll be getting one soon. Thanks.



You're going to love it! Solid build quality and a beautiful beam that is a nice combination of flood and throw. Makes a great utility light, especially for outdoor use.


----------



## cland72

Dr. Strangelove said:


> You're going to love it! Solid build quality and a beautiful beam that is a nice combination of flood and throw. Makes a great utility light, especially for outdoor use.



Agreed. I got mine late last week and used it on a walk after dark to light a path on low, then bumped it to high and it lit up everything within 100 yards easily.


----------



## happyguy82

Dr. Strangelove said:


> You're going to love it! Solid build quality and a beautiful beam that is a nice combination of flood and throw. Makes a great utility light, especially for outdoor use.



I strongly agree too. I took a utility knife to one of the units and tried to scratch off the anodised coating and I even tried to scratch the glass window but all my efforts were futile.


----------



## happyguy82

Hi guys,

So I ran this flashlight on High for circa 15 - 20 mins yesterday while leaving it lying horizontally on a wooden table. I did this because I used it as a source of illumination for something that I was doing.

When I grabbed the unit to shut the light off, the body was very hot. It was too hot to hold for more than a couple of seconds in my bare hands.

Is this normal and would it shorten the LED's life?

Thanks.


----------



## cland72

happyguy82 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> So I ran this flashlight on High for circa 15 - 20 mins yesterday while leaving it lying horizontally on a wooden table. I did this because I used it as a source of illumination for something that I was doing.
> 
> When I grabbed the unit to shut the light off, the body was very hot. It was too hot to hold for more than a couple of seconds in my bare hands.
> 
> Is this normal and would it shorten the LED's life?
> 
> Thanks.



I believe it is normal based on the output from the LED, but I don't think it will shorten the LED's life if Surefire designed it correctly. If the LED dies or dims significantly due to the heat, Surefire will make it right and fix/replace it for you.

What battery configuration are you running?


----------



## happyguy82

cland72 said:


> I believe it is normal based on the output from the LED, but I don't think it will shorten the LED's life if Surefire designed it correctly. If the LED dies or dims significantly due to the heat, Surefire will make it right and fix/replace it for you.
> 
> What battery configuration are you running?



Thanks for the comforting reminder of SureFire's 'lifetime of the owner' guarantee 

I'm sure they designed it right. If SureFire gets it wrong, no one else will get it right lol!.

I'm running the same batteries that came with the unit, i.e. the original original SureFires CR123A x 2. 

Cheers.


----------



## cland72

happyguy82 said:


> Thanks for the comforting reminder of SureFire's 'lifetime of the owner' guarantee
> 
> I'm sure they designed it right. If SureFire gets it wrong, no one else will get it right lol!.
> 
> I'm running the same batteries that came with the unit, i.e. the original original SureFires CR123A x 2.
> 
> Cheers.



Good, just wanted to see if you were running primaries, one 17670, or two RCR's. 

I would say use the crap out of it and if it breaks, let Surefire know


----------



## Helmut.G

happyguy82 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> So I ran this flashlight on High for circa 15 - 20 mins yesterday while leaving it lying horizontally on a wooden table. I did this because I used it as a source of illumination for something that I was doing.
> 
> When I grabbed the unit to shut the light off, the body was very hot. It was too hot to hold for more than a couple of seconds in my bare hands.
> 
> Is this normal and would it shorten the LED's life?
> 
> Thanks.


It's completely normal. It's not ideal for the LED but it should stand that without problems.


----------



## shramj

Speaking of batteries, has anyone noticed a difference with the brightness between regular CR123's and RCR123's?


----------



## happyguy82

I've read somewhere that RCR123s are slightly brighter on this unit. cland72, I wasn't aware that this flashlight can be powered by 17670s. Wouldn't 3.2v be too low for this unit? Even if it worked would that be over driving the driver?

Thanks.


----------



## cland72

happyguy82 said:


> I've read somewhere that RCR123s are slightly brighter on this unit. cland72, I wasn't aware that this flashlight can be powered by 17670s. Wouldn't 3.2v be too low for this unit? Even if it worked would that be over driving the driver?
> 
> Thanks.



I've been using my AW protected 17670 for about 2-3 weeks now and it works just fine. It isn't over driving the driver because the driver is expecting 6 volts. If anything, I would imagine I'm prolonging the life of the driver.


----------



## happyguy82

ok it appears that the driver's a constant current driver, which is the same stuff that I use in my home made burning laser pointers. Here's what I did, I measured the current draw from 2 x SureFire's CR123A primaries stacked in series and got an initial reading of 1.8A which dropped to about 1.5A after a few seconds. I observed the same behaviour when I then powered the unit with a single 18650 battery.

I therefore think that with the same current going through the driver it shouldn't affect the life of the driver's circuitry at all.

I'd happily stand corrected if someone points out a mistake with my thought process here.


----------



## happyguy82

going back to my previous question, I'm now starting to suspect that the unit reached such high temperatures because I left it on the table. Under normal circumstances the user's hand would absorb some of the heat energy and channel that away from the flashlight. It's therefore not good to run these units in such manner. Am I making sense?


----------



## Robin24k

Constant current would be my guess as well. It was slightly brighter with LiFePO4 in my runtime test.

That is correct. It's intended for handheld use, so some of that heat would be dissipated to your body. It got quite hot in my runtime test as well.


----------



## happyguy82

Robin24k said:


> Constant current would be my guess as well. It was slightly brighter with LiFePO4 in my runtime test.
> 
> That is correct. It's intended for handheld use, so some of that heat would be dissipated to your body. It got quite hot in my runtime test as well.



Thanks mate. I just read your review on the R1 Lawman. I wasn't aware of its existance  Anyway given the fact that it uses the same CREE XM-L LED but puts out 50% more lumens, then the Fury's 500 lumens output shouldn't be stressing it too hard hence I should be too worried about how hot it got the other day, right?

By the way, do you know whether these XM-L LEDs are the T6 or U2?


----------



## Robin24k

It quickly drops down from 750 to 500 lumens, and it's got a larger heatsink, so it doesn't run quite as hot as the Fury. Besides, if a light ran cool, as I would be even more worried as there might not be any heatsinking.


----------



## happyguy82

Robin24k said:


> It quickly drops down from 750 to 500 lumens, and it's got a larger heatsink, so it doesn't run quite as hot as the Fury. Besides, if a light ran cool, as I would be even more worried as there might not be any heatsinking.



cool cheers. do you know about the LEDs? T6 or U2? Thanks.


----------



## Robin24k

No, I didn't ask about it. Does it make a difference? If you're worried about tint, neither of my lights have green tints.


----------



## jalcon

I have had three different furys, each varying in tint. One of them had a very green tint. I have one fury right now.and needless to say kept the one with the most attractive tint:naughty:l


----------



## 67RS/SSx2

I ordered a Fury (and three other lights) from Battery Junction about a week or so ago. The Fury was backorderd, they originally said it would ship 5/10. Got an email today saying it (and all others) shipped today. Hooray! I can't wait to play with my new toys! :rock::twothumbs



We now return to the regularly scheduled thread.


----------



## 2000xlt

Remember the body of the light is getting hot because it is doing it job as a "heatsink" I would not worry about it,


----------



## BenChiew

I for one think that the Fury is the perfect flashlight for the urban environment. It is bright enough to light up areas where there is always ambient light from the urban lighting systems.


----------



## TEEJ

happyguy82 said:


> I've read somewhere that RCR123s are slightly brighter on this unit. cland72, I wasn't aware that this flashlight can be powered by 17670s. Wouldn't 3.2v be too low for this unit? Even if it worked would that be over driving the driver?
> 
> Thanks.



Mine ran the same on the primaries as on RCR123's as far as brightness. Its regulated to produce a steady output regardless of voltage (within range of course).

Lights without that circuit may be set to maintain brightness if voltage drops below a certain range, but can also run brighter with more voltage.

if 2 RCR (3.7 v) are not brighter, I don't see 2 lipo 3.2 v being brighter, as their difference is even slighter. If the AMP draw is a limiting factor, perhaps that would fight sag better?


----------



## bluedog225

If this is the wrong place to post, please let me know and I will move it.

I am thinking of the P2X Fury for dual use as "walking the neighborhood" and bike light for local riding until I can decide on a proper bike light system. Two questions. Does it accept a pocket clip? I saw one mention that it did but can't find other references. Also, I see the bezel measurement mentioned but not the body diameter. Will it fit into the Fenix Bike Mount (18-28mm)?

Thanks

Tom


----------



## pulstar

It easily fits into Fenix bike mount. I tried it a few days ago on my girlfriends bike. On high you get a feeling you're driving a car, that's how bright it is!


----------



## BenChiew

pulstar said:


> It easily fits into Fenix bike mount. I tried it a few days ago on my girlfriends bike. On high you get a feeling you're driving a car, that's how bright it is!



+1. Surefire named it correctly.


----------



## bluedog225

Thanks. And I found the clip info (lots of info in the thread-just takes a while to catch up).


----------



## jalcon

bluedog225 said:


> If this is the wrong place to post, please let me know and I will move it.
> 
> I am thinking of the P2X Fury for dual use as "walking the neighborhood" and bike light for local riding until I can decide on a proper bike light system. Two questions. Does it accept a pocket clip? I saw one mention that it did but can't find other references. Also, I see the bezel measurement mentioned but not the body diameter. Will it fit into the Fenix Bike Mount (18-28mm)?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Tom




There are a few clips that will fit it. I believe solarforce has clips that will fit it, or you can do what I did and buy a Ti clip from archer6817j @ darksucks. He sells them in a raw titanium finish or anodized.

Here is mine with the darksucks Ti clip


----------



## Glock 22

The Dark Sucks clips works perfect with the Fury as *jalcon* stated above. I had one on my Fury and it looked and worked perfect. It's probably the best suited clip for the Fury in my opinion, because I've tried several on mine and the Dark Sucks was the best fit, it's not big and bulky, and feels good in your hand. The solarforce is to big and bulky, trust me I have one laying in my box of light stuff and will never get used. If you want a clip for the Fury buy the Dark Sucks.


----------



## bluedog225

Thanks.

Is there any (easy) way to make the Fury blink for daytime bike visibility? I'm willing to buy a custom tailcap. Or a similar flashlight recommendation?


----------



## TEEJ

bluedog225 said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Is there any (easy) way to make the Fury blink for daytime bike visibility? I'm willing to buy a custom tailcap. Or a similar flashlight recommendation?



At that point I'd just get a Klarus XT11, the beam is about the same, but you get a beacon mode included.

:devil:


----------



## happyguy82

bluedog225 said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Is there any (easy) way to make the Fury blink for daytime bike visibility? I'm willing to buy a custom tailcap. Or a similar flashlight recommendation?



Doubt so because the electronics that control low/high are housed in the LED's driver board.


----------



## snackling

Hey guys, considering getting the Fury, ....I wondered is there anyway to make the first clip 500lm and the second 15lm? I don't like the idea that I need to fiddle if I need to blind an attacker.

Thanks for any help!


----------



## kyhunter1

Your out of luck on that, but you do have the option of making it single mode hi only. Pics and details on how to do it are in this thread not too many posts back.


----------



## Robin24k

There will be Tactical and Defender versions of the Fury, which should be available next month. I don't know if the Defender version will be dual-output, but both will be max output first.


----------



## lightinsky

Now that makes sense! If I'm going to pay 130 dollars for this light I want to have a crenelated strike bezel which makes perfect sense seeing 500 lumens is for defense in my eyes (not literarly) LOL!


----------



## AZPops

Well guys/gals, my Fury arrived yesterday and all I have to say is, ... I played with it ALL night, an guess what? .... I didn't go blind! .... :whoopin: ... :laughing: 

I'm very happy I decided to read through most of this thread or I may have not purchased the Fury till at a much later date, or possibly not buy it at all. However, I am one of the ones that's late to the Surfire Party, but after purchasing a bored out C2 host from Bugsy. It gave me a great introduction to Surefire, after which it lead to the purchase of an E1b, LX2, T1A and the Fury! With No Disappointments!













So I guess you can say I'm drinking the Kolaid and am now a Fan! ... :thumbsup:


----------



## ABTOMAT

How do the 500 lumens in a light this size compare to a larger SF like an M3LT? I have an original U2 and an original (400 lumen) M3LT, and if a light this size can keep up with a turbohead I might get a Fury or a UM2 to replace them.


----------



## pjandyho

ABTOMAT said:


> How do the 500 lumens in a light this size compare to a larger SF like an M3LT? I have an original U2 and an original (400 lumen) M3LT, and if a light this size can keep up with a turbohead I might get a Fury or a UM2 to replace them.


There should be a significant difference in the throw of the M3LT against the Fury for sure because the TIR optic in the M3LT focuses all the light into the hotspot and leaving only very very little side spill if any. If anything, the Fury should have lesser throw and more side spill because it is using a reflector, and the reflector is not really big and deep enough to render more throw.


----------



## big juice

got to say after a 6p that I tried to mod and had bad luck with and the fleabay sst-50 light. I'm def going to get this monster and a r1 lawman asap. Any negatives you could allow me to know prior minus the pattern? thx


----------



## jhc37013

I picked up a Fury today from a local B&M, it was a little more expensive than ordering online but I wanted to look myself for a centered emitter. 

My tint is a little green on low but not noticeable outdoors, high tint looks good to me even white wall hunting. The store I bought it from just got these back in stock so I guess it has a glass lens, it looks like I can see some purple AR coating when I look at the lens from a angle.

My serial number is A110195 and I first I thought it was a low serial number but I'm guessing it's A11 and not A1?

So I spent some time outside with the Fury and a few other light's with similar output or style and I'm completely impressed with the Fury, I'm surprised by it's output and throw and thinking it may be brighter than 500lmn.

It out throws my Quark X Turbo and at the same time has a smoother beam as well, the dimmer center of the hotspot or rather the less than obvious donut of my Turbo X becomes very obvious when put up against the Fury, I really never noticed a dim center in the hotspot of my Turbo X until now but anyway the Fury out throws it. This really surprises me since the outputs are similar and the Turbo X has a larger wider reflector while the Fury has a textured reflector, I guess I should not be to surprised I've always known any type of donut hole kills throw, some donuts are not obvious dark spots you see on a wall at a few meters.

I also spent some time with the old tried and true ceiling bounce test and again the Fury surprises me, it looked obviously brighter than my ET T20C2 MKII XM-L with a 18650, brighter than my Thrunite TN12 on 18650 and either equal to or maybe even slightly brighter than my ET D25C2L Clicky. The Fury also look obviously brighter than my SC600 on it's 500lmn mode, all the light's I tested with the Fury had fresh cells.

Of course a ceiling bounce test is not a sphere and things like different tints can throw you off a little when comparing light's this way that is why when I say "obvious" I mean their is no doubt to me when looking on the floor during the bounce that one light is brighter than the either. I'd love to see a Fury in a sphere has anyone here done that yet?

Combine the performance I see and the quality of the Fury along with Surefire's warranty and this light is a big time winner in my book the price is right as well.

There are many "tactical" light's in this class around the 5.5 inch size so what are you going to buy or recommend, for me now the P2X Fury is way ahead as the front runner. I look at the price of my light's in the Fury's size/output range and the Fury is either just a few dollars more or maybe a few $ less and I think to myself why wouldn't I recommend it instead if the others.


----------



## schnellschnell

AZPops - where did you get the belt clip? I was hoping that it came with it but apparently not!

I found the first Fury that the guy took off the shelf to have the emitter a bit off center. Not sure it if matters much in the end but the next one he grabbed was better so I bought that one.

At first, in a dim room I compared it to my SF LX2 and was a bit disappointed. But last night in the dark outdoors it does produce much more light, similar intensity in the center but it covers so much more area - I like it better for searching. It is somewhat yellow on high and green on low compared to my LX2 but again, not noticeable in normal use so far only against white walls.

Great light. Time to start saving for the LX2 ultra...


j


----------



## AZPops

schnellschnell said:


> AZPops - where did you get the belt clip? I was hoping that it came with it but apparently not!
> 
> I found the first Fury that the guy took off the shelf to have the emitter a bit off center. Not sure it if matters much in the end but the next one he grabbed was better so I bought that one.
> 
> At first, in a dim room I compared it to my SF LX2 and was a bit disappointed. But last night in the dark outdoors it does produce much more light, similar intensity in the center but it covers so much more area - I like it better for searching. It is somewhat yellow on high and green on low compared to my LX2 but again, not noticeable in normal use so far only against white walls.
> 
> Great light. Time to start saving for the LX2 ultra...
> 
> 
> j




Congrats on the pick up! Fury's a great light! My second Fury arrived a few weeks ago! ... lol

The clip is from Jason Hui "Prometheus Dark Sucks". Go to his web site, select accessories, then select Surefire Ti Pocket Clip! Jason makes a plain Ti Clip or a Custom Flame Ti Clip.

Here's a link to Jason's thread regarding the Ti clip; http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Clip-GITD-for-Surefire-Solarforce-Elzetta-etc

Btw, I'm also waiting for the LX2 Ultra!


----------



## Size15's

Perhaps worth noting that there is a difference between centering and focusing. SureFire focus their beams. It's the beam that counts and that's what SureFire endeavour to focus rather than simply centering the components.


----------



## gripnSUREFIRE

Sorry for the lame, uninformative post here....but I cannot for the life of me find an O-Ring that will work with the clip. Everyone I find just squishes right out?
Any help?


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

Size15's said:


> Perhaps worth noting that there is a difference between centering and focusing. SureFire focus their beams. It's the beam that counts and that's what SureFire endeavour to focus rather than simply centering the components.



Are you saying that SF somehow adjusts the focus of individual units during manufacture, Al?


----------



## Size15's

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Are you saying that SF somehow adjusts the focus of individual units during manufacture, Al?


Yes.
I'm not sure of the specifics for reflector'd LEDs, but for the TIR optic bezels, it's done when the two halves are screwed together - that's why there is a tolerance gap that is wider on some bezels than others (as opposed to all the components simply being screwed tightly together).


----------



## SeaGoat

I think I've decided on my next torch! :thumbsup:


----------



## cland72

SeaGoat said:


> I think I've decided on my next torch! :thumbsup:



I think you're making the right call. I have several Surefires, and the Fury is my favorite. The only gripes I have are that it doesn't have knurling, and the anti-roll feature is very subtle. If they had a Fury in a 6P body, that would be the ultimate Surefire IMO.


----------



## Xacto

cland72 said:


> [...]If they had a Fury in a 6P body, that would be the ultimate Surefire IMO.


It would be great if every head of the new lights (G2X/6PX, Fury) would be legoable with the tried and true 6P body. And if they would add a small spring to the contact in the head, things would be even better. Especially with crenelated bezels.

Cheers
Thorsten


----------



## tobrien

I'm seriously considering picking up a P2XD Fury from la police gear. Y'all are satisfied with the single mode fury lights? How's the throw?


----------



## Toohotruk

I love mine! :twothumbs


----------



## kyhunter1

Very satisfied. My single mode modded P2XB is holding up just fine. Ive broke all of surfires rules with this one with the mod and running it on two RCR's. Throw is like a Malkoff M60, but a whole lot brighter. 





tobrien said:


> I'm seriously considering picking up a P2XD Fury from la police gear. Y'all are satisfied with the single mode fury lights? How's the throw?


----------



## Shurefire

kyhunter1 said:


> Very satisfied. My single mode modded P2XB is holding up just fine. Ive broke all of surfires rules with this one with the mod and running it on two RCR's. Throw is like a Malkoff M60, but a whole lot brighter.



How does it handle the voltage of the RCR's? Are you using rcr123 or the new surefire lipo 123s?


----------



## kyhunter1

AW123 Lico's. Seems to handle the voltage just fine. Surefire want tell you that the Fury has a buck driver in it with more headroom in the voltage than just the 6 volts from two primaries. Remember that doing the single mode mod and using RCR's other than SF brand voids your warranty.


----------



## tobrien

kyhunter1 said:


> Very satisfied. My single mode modded P2XB is holding up just fine. Ive broke all of surfires rules with this one with the mod and running it on two RCR's. Throw is like a Malkoff M60, but a whole lot brighter.


Thanks!


----------



## 65535

I picked up a P2X-Defender from Surefires headquarters a couple of weeks back. (they were out of the P2X-Combat). Really slick light, very bright and great beam quality as usual. I picked up the blue filter with it. (would have gone red or diffuse but they wanted $100 for those models vs. the blue.)

Really nice light.


----------



## Retinator

Could the Fury Defender be the DM2 Defender?

A Canadian dealer lists the combat grip version with the tactical (one mode) and defender versions all on sale now.

www.911supply.ca

The Defender looks cool, if the beam doesn't get you, the teeth will.


----------



## Retinator

65535 said:


> I picked up a P2X-Defender from Surefires headquarters a couple of weeks back. (they were out of the P2X-Combat). Really slick light, very bright and great beam quality as usual. I picked up the blue filter with it. (would have gone red or diffuse but they wanted $100 for those models vs. the blue.)
> 
> Really nice light.



Ya, I noticed that. Why the price difference?
Oh well a red Pak/Pal light is fine for me


----------



## 65535

Retinator said:


> Ya, I noticed that. Why the price difference?
> Oh well a red Pak/Pal light is fine for me



I mentioned to the guy that it seems awfully obscene that a flip up beam filter in that size would be so much. He checked (supposedly) with a higher up about it who claimed the cost of the filters necessitated the price, but I'm not really sold on that. However it's the price and wasn't something I was willing to spend. (I quite like blue anyways.)

I can however decisively say the P2X Fury Defender is NOT any supposed DM2 product as it is a single level click on tactical style light.

















(Thank you auto-save.)


----------



## AZPops

kyhunter1 said:


> Very satisfied. My single mode modded P2XB is holding up just fine. Ive broke all of surfires rules with this one with the mod and running it on two RCR's. Throw is like a Malkoff M60, but a whole lot brighter.




You're BAD! ....






Now U got me's extry Fury in a USPS Priority Flat Rate Box in a few hours, n' will be head'in to the Pacific Northwest to see what we can do with it!

If it turns out anything like my E1b did, which btw is now just pure awesomeness (I mean the dang E1b makes you wanna click it on, n' give's me a GREAT BIG SMILE when I do). I'll be one happy individual!


----------



## kyhunter1

The Fury is a awesome light. Mine is just plain "Bad" and I love it! You will be happy with the Fury. 




AZPops said:


> You're BAD! ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now U got me's extry Fury in a USPS Priority Flat Rate Box in a few hours, n' will be head'in to the Pacific Northwest to see what we can do with it!
> 
> If it turns out anything like my E1b did, which btw is now just pure awesomeness (I mean the dang E1b makes you wanna click it on, n' give's me a GREAT BIG SMILE when I do). I'll be one happy individual!


----------



## AZPops

kyhunter1 said:


> The Fury is a awesome light. Mine is just plain "Bad" and I love it! You will be happy with the Fury.




Yeah, very happy with both of them. Cept, I'm keeping one OEM, and the man live'in up in the Pacific Northwest will be messing with the other to see "if" he can "hot rod" it up a bit!


----------



## fresh eddie fresh

Retinator said:


> Could the Fury Defender be the DM2 Defender?



The DM2 will have an option of high/low with the high coming on first (clicky,) or two stage tactical tailcap like the Aviator/Lumamaxes. The DM2 is also going to have a TIR lens (which I am excited about!) The levels are the same as the Fury, though (500/15.)


----------



## gripnSUREFIRE

Where are the bezel down low ride clips for these monsters!!


----------



## tobrien

fresh eddie fresh said:


> The DM2 will have an option of high/low with the high coming on first (clicky,) or two stage tactical tailcap like the Aviator/Lumamaxes. The DM2 is also going to have a TIR lens (which I am excited about!) The levels are the same as the Fury, though (500/15.)



was the DM2 in the 2012 catalog thing? I don't recall seeing it in there


----------



## Robert_M

tobrien said:


> was the DM2 in the 2012 catalog thing? I don't recall seeing it in there



Yes, its on page 37 and has not been released yet. The recently released P2ZX and P2XD are NOT in the catalog however.


----------



## 65535

Robert_M said:


> Yes, its on page 37 and has not been released yet. The recently released P2ZX and P2XD are NOT in the catalog however.



If Surefire's catalogs have been any indication of product line up. You're looking at 3-48 months release after it hits the catalog. A lot of products never make it out of print.


----------



## Westminster

Comparing the Fury Tactical to a LX2: The Fury has much wider flood. The Fury's hot spot is a little brighter, but not an order of magnitude brighter (which surprises me).

Comparing the Fury Tactical to a M3LT (400 lumens): The Fury definitely has more splash, but the M3LT's center spot is definitely brighter.

Comparing the Fury Tactical to a M3LT-S (800 lumens): The Fury definitely has more splash, but the M3LT's center spot is definitely brighter.

I was disappointed that no clip or ring came with the Fury, but the price is fabulous.


----------



## 65535

Westminster said:


> Comparing the Fury Tactical to a LX2: The Fury has much wider flood. The Fury's hot spot is a little brighter, but not an order of magnitude brighter (which surprises me).



Perceived brightness operates logarithmically it takes 4 times more light to be perceived as twice as bright.


----------



## Size15's

Robert_M said:


> Yes, its on page 37 and has not been released yet. The recently released P2ZX and P2XD are NOT in the catalog however.


I suggest not being surprised if SureFire's released CombatLight and Defender Fury variants mean they never release their concept ZM2 and DM2 models.


----------



## Retinator

Size15's said:


> I suggest not being surprised if SureFire's released CombatLight and Defender Fury variants mean they never release their concept ZM2 and DM2 models.



I was thinking the same thing. Everything's going Fury now. Could the 6PX's get taken over someday? Other than price points, people are leaning towards more lumens.

I still love my E1L, they all have their place I suppose.


----------



## Toohotruk

If I had bought my Fury first, I likely would not have bought my 6PX Pro. Especially since I got the Fury on sale for just a few dollars more than the 6PX.


----------



## Slumber

I've steered clear of the 9P because the bezel didn't look balanced with the body, but I think the Fury would benefit from a 3 cell body, while the 6PX is handy as is. That said, lumens sell. I'm sure the new Fury models will be the demise of the 6PX and G2X.


----------



## Littlelantern

Surefire just released the P2zx fury combat light and the defender version,I saw it on the surefire website a few day ago,any possiblelity of enjoying the length of 9p and the advantage of the rechargeable by using Surefire rechargeable conversion kit kr2 bk .


----------



## Littlelantern

Surefire just released the P2zx fury combat light and the defender version,I saw it on the surefire website a few day ago,any possiblelity of enjoying the length of 9p and the advantage of the rechargeable by using Surefire rechargeable conversion kit kr2 bk .My bicycle headlight is a p2x fury flashlight.in the few more month will be power by nimh battery.


----------



## Sear123

Going to be making my first Surefire purchase. Trying to decide between the P2X or 6PXD. Both seem to be great lights.


----------



## AZPops

One thing I wished Surefire would've not done was rivet the board and LED together! Bummer! It would've been great to've been able to "Hot Rod" one of my Fury's!


----------



## 65535

Rivets are easily removed with a careful hand and a drill or a dremel/pencil grinder with a burr.

That gives me an idea.

Single stage XM-L at 800 lumens with 1 18650.


----------



## Swedpat

Hi again friends! :wave:

After a few months interruption I feel I need some new flashlight again. Now it's 4 weeks after the longest day of the year and soon it will be dark nights again. My intention was to wait until august for next flashlight purchase, but I couldn't wait, recently pulled the trigger for a Surefire P2X Fury...
Then I see there are two clearly different informations of runtime chart for this flashlight. Any comment? You see the runtime charts between these reviews are very different for the high mode.

Regards, Patric



http://light-reviews.com/Flashlight-detail/surefire-p2x-fury-dual-output-led-review/

http://www.led-resource.com/2012/03/surefire-p2x-fury-review/


----------



## Robin24k

We only conduct runtime tests for high mode, and we did it with both primiaries and lithium-phosphate rechargeables.


----------



## Swedpat

Robin24k said:


> We only conduct runtime tests for high mode, and we did it with both primiaries and lithium-phosphate rechargeables.



Ok, I see Robin. But I wonder how it comes that light reviews states so different chart than your. Actually I first read light reviews review which showed a very stable output and after I ordered the light I read your review which showed a not nearly as stable output... 

While Light reviews shows a practically full output until around 50 minutes your review shows that the output has dropped to around 400lm after the same time and ~350lm before the true decline. The curves are not even close to similar for the first 1 hour.


----------



## Raymond3

*Help Wanted: what improvement over the upgraded 6p?*

Pleae don't get me wrong, I really do love Surefire products, and have (or have given to family) over a dozen lights. My original inclination was to jump all over this new light. 

But, After reading this thread from the begining, I do have a question for anyone: What if any advantage does the Fury have over the upgraded 6p? By upgraded I mean the 6p has ULC lens, stainles bezel protector, is ElectronGuru bored for 18650, Nailbender three mode XML, and McClicky installed.

If (when) new technology comes out, I can just change my light. Of course, there is the "cool" factor, and warranty, but what substantial improvements if any?

Thanks for any input.

Ray


----------



## fresh eddie fresh

*Re: Help Wanted: what improvement over the upgraded 6p?*



Raymond3 said:


> Pleae don't get me wrong, I really do love Surefire products, and have (or have given to family) over a dozen lights. My original inclination was to jump all over this new light.
> 
> But, After reading this thread from the begining, I do have a question for anyone: What if any advantage does the Fury have over the upgraded 6p? By upgraded I mean the 6p has ULC lens, stainles bezel protector, is ElectronGuru bored for 18650, Nailbender three mode XML, and McClicky installed.
> 
> If (when) new technology comes out, I can just change my light. Of course, there is the "cool" factor, and warranty, but what substantial improvements if any?
> 
> Thanks for any input.
> 
> Ray



Surefire's main business is with military and law enforcement people. Not all of them want to have to tinker with their flashlight or deal with rechargeables. A lot of them probably view flashlights as a tool. Having a great light that works right out of the package is probably advantageous, especially if they end up selling them in quantity to a single organization, and the cost per unit new is probably cheaper for the Fury than it is for what you describe, and having just low and high modes is very simple to operate.


----------



## Raymond3

*Re: Help Wanted: what improvement over the upgraded 6p?*



fresh eddie fresh said:


> Surefire's main business is with military and law enforcement people. Not all of them want to have to tinker with their flashlight or deal with rechargeables. A lot of them probably view flashlights as a tool. Having a great light that works right out of the package is probably advantageous, especially if they end up selling them in quantity to a single organization, and the cost per unit new is probably cheaper for the Fury than it is for what you describe, and having just low and high modes is very simple to operate.



I understand that, and I agree! In fact, this recent development and a couple of others is really good news that a wonderful American company is more quickly adopting the more recent advances in electronics to stay at least competitive. IMHO, folks in the military and police sould be very well served with this that the sister platforms. 

But, the question was for my personal benefit because I am seriously considering buying a couple for my self and family. That would mean shelving, or selling some good old upgraded Surefire/Malkoff workhorses (6P, C2, 9Ps, MD4, MD2) that have flexility and just plain work too. I don't see that much, if any, benefit to the switch. Maybe I am missing something.


----------



## kyhunter1

*Re: Help Wanted: what improvement over the upgraded 6p?*

Some things to consider. The larger reflector of the Fury yields more throw than modules like the Nailbender. It is also up to date in terms of current tech and output. Heat is not a big problem with the FURY as XML modules sometimes can be really hot when used for extended periods of time. You get alot with the FURY as a stock light out of the box. You dont have to place several different orders to get all the parts needed to trick out a 6P, which is also a advantage with the FURY. The FURY also runs well with rechargeables. I run mine on both 2x RCR123 and with a 17670. 



Raymond3 said:


> ............
> 
> But, After reading this thread from the begining, I do have a question for anyone: What if any advantage does the Fury have over the upgraded 6p? By upgraded I mean the 6p has ULC lens, stainles bezel protector, is ElectronGuru bored for 18650, Nailbender three mode XML, and McClicky installed.
> 
> If (when) new technology comes out, I can just change my light. Of course, there is the "cool" factor, and warranty, but what substantial improvements if any?
> 
> Thanks for any input.
> 
> Ray


----------



## Vinniec5

*Re: Help Wanted: what improvement over the upgraded 6p?*

kyhunter1 any problems with the 17670? whats the runtime with it? I've heard both do and don't with 17670s in the fury and i have 4 of them hanging around. I's like to use them if I could in my fury for daily use


----------



## kyhunter1

*Re: Help Wanted: what improvement over the upgraded 6p?*

Had mine for 6 months and used rechargeables for most of that time with no problems yet. My Fury has quite a few hours on it now. It will run mostly regulated with the 17670 and major dimming showing up around the 40 minute mark. With two RCR123's it runs full output flat regulated till the protection circuit in the cells shut the light off around the 20-25 minute mark. Around the house, I use rechargeables. Away from home I feed it primaries after the 17670 starts to dim. You have the advantage with the 17670 dimming to warn that the battery is low, and not cutting off and leaving you in the dark. My cells are all AW brand. Also remember that using non surefire rechargeables voids your warranty. I accept that risk with mine. 



Vinniec5 said:


> kyhunter1 any problems with the 17670? whats the runtime with it? I've heard both do and don't with 17670s in the fury and i have 4 of them hanging around. I's like to use them if I could in my fury for daily use


----------



## Glock 22

Have you looked at the Dark Sucks clips, there a low ride bezel down clip that works perfect on the Fury.



gripnSUREFIRE said:


> Where are the bezel down low ride clips for these monsters!!




*EDIT: *I also run a AW 17670 in my Fury like *kyhunter1 *and I've had no problems with it.


----------



## tobrien

GLOCK 22 said:


> Have you looked at the Dark Sucks clips, there a low ride bezel down clip that works perfect on the Fury.


the darksucks Surefire Ti Pocket Clip isn't the low ride 

just the standard level


----------



## Robert_M

Swedpat said:


> Ok, I see Robin. But I wonder how it comes that light reviews states so different chart than your. Actually I first read light reviews review which showed a very stable output and after I ordered the light I read your review which showed a not nearly as stable output...
> 
> While Light reviews shows a practically full output until around 50 minutes your review shows that the output has dropped to around 400lm after the same time and ~350lm before the true decline. The curves are not even close to similar for the first 1 hour.



Perhaps light-reviews is using a fan to simulate the cooling effect of holding the light in the hand.


----------



## Glock 22

Your right, my bad. I don't know what I was thinking. I meant to say it's the one that I was able to find that worked and looked the best on the Fury. There looking for a deep carry one, and I've not found one yet.




tobrien said:


> the darksucks Surefire Ti Pocket Clip isn't the low ride
> 
> just the standard level


----------



## Swedpat

Robert_M said:


> Perhaps light-reviews is using a fan to simulate the cooling effect of holding the light in the hand.



Yes, that's correct. I mailed Light Reviews and received following answer:

"_All reviews on Light-Reviews.com are done with active cooling by means of a cooling fan blowing on the flashlight while performing run time test. This is relevant to simulate real-world use because when we hold the flashlight in our hands or using it outdoors which help draw heat away from the flashlight, especially when running on high output modes which dissipate significant heat._"

*Robin24K*: did you do the runtime test of P2X Fury without any cooling?


----------



## Robin24k

Swedpat said:


> *Robin24K*: did you do the runtime test of P2X Fury without any cooling?


Yes, we test lights at room temperature around 72-75F without any additional cooling (as specified by ANSI FL-1 Standard 2.1.1 Lab Conditions).


----------



## Swedpat

Robin24k said:


> Yes, we test lights at room temperature around 72-75F without any additional cooling (as specified by ANSI FL-1 Standard 2.1.1 Lab Conditions).



Ok, that's likely the main explanation of the very different results between your and Light reviews test. Therefore I think I will be satisfied with P2X Fury. Such a flashlight I normally use handheld and mostly not for half an hour or more continiously, so the output hardly will drop below 450lm before the true decline.


----------



## TadpolePilot

*Re: Surefire Fury*

What would you pay for a 5 mode, 1000 lumen P-60 light?


----------



## AZPops

65535 said:


> Rivets are easily removed with a careful hand and a drill or a dremel/pencil grinder with a burr.
> 
> That gives me an idea.
> 
> Single stage XM-L at 800 lumens with 1 18650.





I'll let you know how it goes when I get it back from our Man liv'in in the Pacific Northwest! Oh we're throwing in a crane cam, roller rockers, carb, manifold, headers, gearing in the rear end, and a new tranny! We're shoot'in for the 1/4 mile single mode and not the gazillion mode Indy 500 type of races! 

It's gonna be one heavy flashlight though, you think? I may have to take off the slicks, so it'll fit in a holster?

This dang Fury's got more frequent flyer miles then I do! ... :naughty:


----------



## ABTOMAT

Finally broke down and bought a Fury. Much better than the Jetbeam BC50 I had, but my impressions are still mixed.

1. Looks good
2. Bright
3. Seems pretty sturdy

A. Way too slippery--no knurling or hard edges
B. SF's laser engraving keeps getting worse
C. Could use a higher "low" or a 3rd mode IMHO. For indoor daytime use 15 is too dim and 500 is too bright, but this is just nitpicking.
D. No worthwhile anti-roll

Already have a U2 and a P60 host so I don't think I'll keep it. The lack of grip really irritates me more than anything else, actually.


----------



## cland72

ABTOMAT said:


> A. Way too slippery--no knurling or hard edges
> D. No worthwhile anti-roll



These are my two major complaints. Surefire seems to have gone away from knurling on the majority of their products.


----------



## Swedpat

I am surprised about reading about P2X Fury beeing slipper. Neither the review by Lightreviews or Ledresource give that opinion. However, I will receive my example next week so I will then share my impression about it.


----------



## Robert_M

The Fury CombatLight (P2ZX-A) solves the "slippery" problems, in my opinion. However, the "-A" is the tactical single level only model. If SF introduces a "-B" version (two output levels) then that would be a better alternative for those that like a combat ring.

Since I have the original Fury (P2X-B) I bought the SureFire Combat Rings (CR-KIT01) to provide a better grip, especially when used with a handgun. The rings are not perfect since they will slide around with use but they work good enough for my purposes.


----------



## Swedpat

I just received P2X Fury, a bit earlier than I thought. 

*First impression:* as all Surefire I have owned I instantly like this light! It has the typhical quality feeling of a Surefire. Smooth and nice design, pretty compact size. It could have been knurled but in my opinion it isn't still that slipper, it has a soft feeling which is very nice to hold and with a few edges. I experience no tendency for the light to glide away in the hand when I push the button, which is something I otherwise find annoying. 
Unfortunately the design provides practically no antiroll function. The advantage however, compared to E2DL Defender is that P2X Fury will make no risk for the jacket pocket!

For me it's ok with the low mode first, if I instantly need high mode I have it within a second by pushing the button fast two times. The low is very low and the high is BRIGHT. Doing some ceiling bounce test it's definitely brighter than Jetbeam PA40N, the lux meter actually shows similar value as Fenix TK30 at 630lm mode. Brightness is between PA40 and Maelstrom X10. The beam is clean with a wide and very cool white hotspot but a purple tinted spill, like PA40.

The design also makes P2X Fury excellent to cover with the hand over the head for drawing off heat.
It came to my mind that I payed a lower price for P2X than as well my Outdoorsmans and Defender. That's good because as I mentioned it seems to be the same Surefire top-notch quality as the other.

I already feel that P2X Fury will be another favorite in my flashlight collection! This week-end I will have some fun with P2X Fury and Maelstrom X10! :thumbsup:


----------



## Swedpat

*After a few days experience with Fury I will share my thoughts:*

*I can admit that Fury sometimes feels a bit too slippery. A small amount of grease from hands on the surface or when the fingers are dry are situations when the grip isn't good.

*15lm is good for some situations. But for such a 2-mode flashlight a low mode of 100lm would be much more useful and a great allround mode! For the very low modes I have the keychain light. The difference between 15 and 500lm is, as mentioned by other users, too big.

*I would like that Fury could be made in a 3CR123 model, or that the present model could be runned at 9V, with an extension tube. That would provide better runtime, a better hold and the light would still be pretty compact sized.


----------



## AZPops

All you need is two o-rings! ... 













Easy-Peasy-Lemon-Squeazie! ... :thumbsup:


----------



## kyhunter1

Food for thought..... I run mine on two AWRCR 123's all the time with no issues. I accept the risk of a damaged light and a voided warranty. Voltage wise, It's no different than putting on a A19 extender and running on 2 x 17500's. I also tried mine for a short run with 3 x 123 primaries and it seemed to run fine. The Fury driver does have more head room than 6V. It should be a buck driver, and these are good typically to atleast 9V. I will not be trying 3 x RCR123's as 12+ volts is pushing it too far. 



Swedpat said:


> *..........*
> *I would like that Fury could be made in a 3CR123 model, or that the present model could be runned at 9V, with an extension tube. That would provide better runtime, a better hold and the light would still be pretty compact sized.


----------



## davyro

AZPops said:


> All you need is two o-rings! ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy-Peasy-Lemon-Squeazie! ... :thumbsup:



Calvin certainly looks like he agrees, I must admit I didn't find holding it any problem at all in fact i really like the feel of the Fury & it's your fault AZPops:naughty:


----------



## AZPops

davyro said:


> Calvin certainly looks like he agrees, I must admit I didn't find holding it any problem at all in fact i really like the feel of the Fury & *it's your fault AZPops* :naughty:




That's what are friend's are for right? ....






Btw davyro, I decided to cancel the single mode XM-L U2. So in a few days (however long USPS takes), I just may have the only XP-G2 Fury on the Planet! .... Well,for a short whiles anyways! ...


----------



## AZPops

Well folks, our man live'in in the Pacific Northwest, Wayne aka Vinh "Does Not”, I repeat, “Does Not Disappoint"! I received the Fury that Wayne installed a XP-G2 which utilizes the OEM low/high driver, and an AW17670. This Fury throws with a nice bright hot spot which transitions nicely into the spill. The hot spot is bright, with the spill leaning toward the upper (cooler) end (or side) of neutral.

Comparing it to the driver change which Wayne did to my Eb1 which also now utilizes a secondary (?) RCR. The hot spot size is very close to being the same, however the spill is much brighter (or more usable imo). However that's were the similarities end, cause the Fury just fly's past E1b in brightness and of course throw.

Wayne, another Thumbs Up my friend!


----------



## dennisw1mac

*Is SureFire Fury already losing?*

Since I'm a relative noob at this, some things may strike me funny, but I'm not afraid to ask a stupid question. SureFire seems to be the top shelf choice in flashlights, however I'm perplexed by how their features seem to pale in comparison to the popular Chinese made lights. For example…

1. They can't take 18650 batteries. 
2. The UI seems overly simplified. Not even a strobe option on the Fury.
3. Small optional features like the bezel and tailcap create a whole new complete light purchase, instead of being included or offered as an accessory kit.

I don't know; maybe these "short-comings" are the price to pay for a dramatically better built and more dependable light. It's hard for me to assess with my limited experience. What say you?


----------



## 127.0.0.1

whatever is most profitable, safe, reliable, and batteries which are commonly obtainable by end users, is what surefire sticks with


----------



## dano

dennisw1mac said:


> *Is SureFire Fury already losing?*
> 
> Since I'm a relative noob at this, some things may strike me funny, but I'm not afraid to ask a stupid question. SureFire seems to be the top shelf choice in flashlights, however I'm perplexed by how their features seem to pale in comparison to the popular Chinese made lights. For example…
> 
> 1. They can't take 18650 batteries.
> 2. The UI seems overly simplified. Not even a strobe option on the Fury.
> 3. Small optional features like the bezel and tailcap create a whole new complete light purchase, instead of being included or offered as an accessory kit.
> 
> I don't know; maybe these "short-comings" are the price to pay for a dramatically better built and more dependable light. It's hard for me to assess with my limited experience. What say you?



1. SF isnt going to design a light that caters to a small minority of users who use a cell that has a questionable safety history, and simply isnt popular beyond CPF.

2. Keep it simple, i dont want to click a light ten times, then stand on my head for some fancy mode that is rarely used.

3. ?


----------



## FPSRelic

dennisw1mac said:


> *Is SureFire Fury already losing?*
> 
> Since I'm a relative noob at this, some things may strike me funny, but I'm not afraid to ask a stupid question. SureFire seems to be the top shelf choice in flashlights, however I'm perplexed by how their features seem to pale in comparison to the popular Chinese made lights. For example…
> 
> 1. They can't take 18650 batteries.
> 2. The UI seems overly simplified. Not even a strobe option on the Fury.
> 3. Small optional features like the bezel and tailcap create a whole new complete light purchase, instead of being included or offered as an accessory kit.
> 
> I don't know; maybe these "short-comings" are the price to pay for a dramatically better built and more dependable light. It's hard for me to assess with my limited experience. What say you?







> 1. They can't take 18650 batteries.


The Fury is designed to specifically take CR123A batteries. As such, the battery tube is sized to accomodate the batteries snugly to reduce battery rattle. In the past Surefire has indicated that they do not support rechargables like the 18650 as there are too many variances in battery size and quality. 

Additionally, these types of batteries require more care in their use - more than the regular user of a light is prepared to give. As such, when Surefire offers a light that accepts 18650's, they offer it in a light that has all of the protection circuitry and charge control built in, along with a safety that only allows the use of Surefire's proprietary batteries. The Surefire Lawman is an example of this. 

Surefire offers the safer chemistry of the LifeP04 CR123A battery as a rechargable option for the Fury.



> 2. The UI seems overly simplified. Not even a strobe option on the Fury.


This was probably done to reduce complexity and cost. Beleive it or not, there is no such thing as being overly simple. The simpler something is to use, the more usable it becomes. In the land of computers, a good user interface is said to be one where a user can get to wherever they want in no more than 3 clicks of a mouse, and less is best. The Fury is designed to be a general purpose light.

Believe me, for the unflashaholics out there, 2 modes is enough. I have co-workers who can't even get their head around clicking my e1b twice to get to a mode that doesn't blind them when they use it for close up work. There are Surefire's that have the extra modes like Strobe, but they're usually designed in a way that makes modes easy to get to - nothing more than 3 clicks I would expect. This obviously requires more complex switches, which in turn increases cost. Again, the Lawman is a good example this.



> 3. Small optional features like the bezel and tailcap create a whole new complete light purchase, instead of being included or offered as an accessory kit.


The older Surefire's used to offer extra features like bezels and tailcaps. The newer X series Surefire's (the LX2 possiblty being an exception) were developed in response to criticism that Surefire's were too expensive. To reduce cost, while still making their lights in America, and offering the lifetime warrantly, Surefire had to find ways of cutting corners in the design of their lights that didn't sacrifice reliability. One of these was to reduce the amount of screw threads used in the light, and loc-tite down these areas to negate any waterproofing/structural issues this would have caused. 

In short, the Fury is one of Surefire's budget lights. If you want more features, the ability to use rechargables like the 18650, and extra accessory lits, you would need to look at something like the Lawman.


----------



## dennisw1mac

FPSRelic said:


> In short, the Fury is one of Surefire's budget lights. If you want more features, the ability to use rechargables like the 18650, and extra accessory lits, you would need to look at something like the Lawman.



I see what you mean. That Lawman is quite a light and does compare very favorably. Thanks to all who replied.


----------



## fresh eddie fresh

I don't think I would have bought a Fury if it had a strobe feature. I have an AZ2 that has a strobe and I have never used it. I picked that model simply because it was on sale for less money than the version without the strobe and it is pretty easy to avoid activating accidentally. 

I like Surefire's simplicity. If I want more modes, I have an excuse to buy more lights.


----------



## dennisw1mac

fresh eddie fresh said:


> I have an AZ2 that has a strobe and I have never used it.



I don't think that most people have "used" it per se. It's a self defense mode that is meant to disorient an attacker. I think we would all like to never have to use it. But, I suspect it would have come in handy in a dark movie theater with a mad gunman on the loose or when confronting an intruder in your home.


----------



## ABTOMAT

dennisw1mac said:


> But, I suspect it would have come in handy in a dark movie theater with a mad gunman on the loose or when confronting an intruder in your home.



I think a lot of people would disagree with that. Opinion on strobes is pretty mixed as far as their effectiveness. Considering I don't buy flashlights to face down mad gunmen I prefer they not have strobe or other gimmick features.


----------



## huntz362

I want the dual output version of the fury, however, I also want to have the defender strike bezel. Would it be possible to do this?


----------



## Robert_M

huntz362 said:


> I want the dual output version of the fury, however, I also want to have the defender strike bezel. Would it be possible to do this?



Yes, but you'll have to wait until SureFire comes out with that model.


----------



## huntz362

Robert_M said:


> Yes, but you'll have to wait until SureFire comes out with that model.



Thats what I figured any idea when/if they plan on coming out with such a model?


----------



## sidecross

Up until this year all my flashlights have been Surefire including their new 6PX PRO, but I have since bought Eagletac's C25C2, G25C, and NiteCore's TM11 'Tiny Monster'. I have also been trying out the 18650 3100mAh batteries and charging them with the Nitecore i4 charger.

Time will tell if I will be pleased with my new choices. 

I still keep at least 36 Surefire 123 Lithium batteries in reserve for all my lights.

In the past I have always tried to buy Union Made products from the USA, but Union Labor has fallen to single digit of the American work force. I myself am retired from the Machinists Union and I am also paying member of the IWW (Industrial Workers of the World).

We are living in a new world now and for the skilled worker the value by measure of GNP has dropped; according to some estimates over 90% of the U.S. GNP since 2008 has gone to the upper 1%.


----------



## Robert_M

huntz362 said:


> Thats what I figured any idea when/if they plan on coming out with such a model?



I think they will since the original Fury has two output levels and a forward clicky so it would take little effort on their part. But just the same I don't recommend that you hold your breath. Ultimately, they have to decide how much of a market there is for a two output level Fury Defender. I'd like to see them produce a two output level Combat model, but we'll see.


----------



## benthiccracker

Cool Fury mod running two AW RCRs. The head has been removed before by me (with no tools) FYI. Tailcap by Ronac. Clip by Unique Titanium.



Tricked Out Fury by benthiccrackerbrian, on Flickr


----------



## jukeboxx

Robert_M said:


> I think they will since the original Fury has two output levels and a forward clicky so it would take little effort on their part. But just the same I don't recommend that you hold your breath. Ultimately, they have to decide how much of a market there is for a two output level Fury Defender. I'd like to see them produce a two output level Combat model, but we'll see.



I dont think they will since the (eag) fury has been released as a single output WML on sold ony from bravo company usa.


----------



## tobrien

benthiccracker said:


> Cool Fury mod running two AW RCRs. The head has been removed before by me (with no tools) FYI. Tailcap by Ronac. Clip by Unique Titanium.
> 
> 
> 
> Tricked Out Fury by benthiccrackerbrian, on Flickr



nice man, so you mentioned the head has been removed, did you mod the head?


----------



## snakyjake

*Re: Help Wanted: what improvement over the upgraded 6p?*



fresh eddie fresh said:


> Surefire's main business is with military and law enforcement people. Not all of them want to have to tinker with their flashlight or deal with rechargeables. A lot of them probably view flashlights as a tool. Having a great light that works right out of the package is probably advantageous, especially if they end up selling them in quantity to a single organization, and the cost per unit new is probably cheaper for the Fury than it is for what you describe, and having just low and high modes is very simple to operate.



That's why I purchase a Surefire. I need a light that works. And that means no rechargeables, idiot proof UI, and no modifications. I need quality control consistency too. That means if there's a QC problem, many are going to experience the problem, and we can hopefully get the solution before needed.


----------



## benthiccracker

tobrien said:


> nice man, so you mentioned the head has been removed, did you mod the head?


No, didn't mod the head. Just wanted to see if I could do it.


----------



## tobrien

benthiccracker said:


> No, didn't mod the head. Just wanted to see if I could do it.



ah okay, did you think it looked very mod-able in the future when the XM-L (that's what the Fury has, right?) is no longer king?


----------



## twl

tobrien said:


> ah okay, did you think it looked very mod-able in the future when the XM-L (that's what the Fury has, right?) is no longer king?



It was a shame that SureFire gave up that P60 standardized drop-in that they originally created. That was the thing that drove all the aftermarket drop-ins for people who wanted a SureFire body, but wanted something better as a light engine, and had a ready upgrade path for new technology.
Now, it's just another disposable light.


----------



## Toohotruk

Not really disposable...just send it in to SF for warranty if something breaks.


----------



## benthiccracker

tobrien said:


> ah okay, did you think it looked very mod-able in the future when the XM-L (that's what the Fury has, right?) is no longer king?





I think that would be somebody like Milkyspit's department.


----------



## kyhunter1

If my memory serves me correct, a little while back somebody on here swapped the XML for a XPG2 in their Fury.


----------



## Toohotruk

I remember reading that too...turned it into more of a thrower.


----------



## AZPops

Here you go guys. I'm not sure who the other *somebody* was, but this is what I got with my two Furys. ...






I used a point and shoot Casio, so don't ask what setting the camera was set at. Wayne did the swap in one of'um. . I installed two fresh AW 17670's, one in each of the Fury's. 

*NOTE:* Wayne told me I can* only *use a AW17670 with the XP-G2 Fury (something to do with 6volt max, or the light will go ... ). If you have any questions, contact Wayne!


*Control:
*





*XML 10 yards:
*





*XP-G2 10 yards:
*





*XML 30 yards:
*





*XP-G2 30 yards:
*





*XML 35 yards to the fence line (or shrubs), 60 yards to the far wall:

*





*XP-G2 35 yards to the fence line (or shrubs), 60 yards to the far wall:

*


----------



## Mark-60

I just got my Tactical Fury. I got it for a light I could use while walking my dog. I think this may be the perfect light for that purpose. Plenty bright and compact. Looking forward to test driving it when I get home from work.


----------



## AZPops

Mark-60 said:


> I just got my Tactical Fury. I got it for a light I could use while walking my dog. I think this may be the perfect light for that purpose. Plenty bright and compact. Looking forward to test driving it when I get home from work.



Congrats on the pick up Mark! The Fury's a great general purpose light, as well as I love the design!


----------



## Mark-60

Holy mother this is a bright light! It puts my LX2 to shame. I'll still daily carry the LX2 because the fury is just too bright for indoor use. It's perfect for walking the dag though.


----------



## Risky

Why is there a lack of mods for the P2X fury? Is it because it's new? Also I want to change the tail cap boot to a green one and I don't where I'd find one.


----------



## kyhunter1

Being difficult to mod is a feature that SF build into this light, but it's not impossible. It can be opened up and reworked, but most are happy with it the way it is. The XML is still cutting edge technology. I dont think you will be able to swap the boot either without destroying the switch. I checked mine, and it looks like the switch guts would have to be destroyed to get at the boot. Assuming the threading inside the Fury tailcap is the same as SF Z41's, the clicky mechanism could be pulled and replaced with electronguru's McClicky kit, and then you could put whatever color boot you want in it. But, that is an assumption. Probably the best option would be to get a McClicky modded Z41 with the boot you want and use it, then you will have the main Fury switch as a backup. 



Risky said:


> Why is there a lack of mods for the P2X fury? Is it because it's new? Also I want to change the tail cap boot to a green one and I don't where I'd find one.


----------



## allemander

Swedpat said:


> *After a few days experience with Fury I will share my thoughts:*
> 
> *I can admit that Fury sometimes feels a bit too slippery. A small amount of grease from hands on the surface or when the fingers are dry are situations when the grip isn't good.
> 
> *15lm is good for some situations. But for such a 2-mode flashlight a low mode of 100lm would be much more useful and a great allround mode! For the very low modes I have the keychain light. The difference between 15 and 500lm is, as mentioned by other users, too big.
> 
> *I would like that Fury could be made in a 3CR123 model, or that the present model could be runned at 9V, with an extension tube. That would provide better runtime, a better hold and the light would still be pretty compact sized.



I have discovered an effective solution to combat the slippery feel of the Fury and I thought I'd share this easy non-permanent 'mod' since I have not yet seen it mentioned anywhere else (forgive me if I overlooked it). 

I simply took the rubber hand grip that came with a couple of my Foursevens Quark lights and slip it onto the Fury, then slowly twist the rubber ends in opposing directions which causes the middle of the rubber grip to begin wrapping itself around the Fury in a spiral formation, careful to not allow any layers to overlap. 

This easy application ultimately covers the Fury completely between the very end of the removable tail-cap and the head of the light with only about a half inch of space at each end that is not covered in rubber. Make sense?

The amount of added grip that is achieved is overwhelming!! It literally is like slipping a tight-fitting rubber sleeve or sock over the light's cylindrical portion (battery tube & tail-cap).
One minor complaint is there will be two very small, slightly protruding, raised portions of the rubber grip that keep it from being a completely smooth & flush fit, but those can easily disappear between your fingers (or perhaps even be trimmed away?). 

To take it a step further, I incorporate this enhancement along with Surefire's lanyard ring which becomes tightly held in place (does not freely rotate) by the rubber grip wrapped around the light.
I then run a paracord lanyard through the part of the lanyard ring the slightly protrudes (the 'nipple', if you will) without any split-ring so it stays stealthy & silent. 

Now, you will have to remove the rubber grip in order to access the batteries but that's not likely to be something you're doing everyday, anyway, and besides, the benefit of the added grip and the ease of removal and reinstallation, combined with the low cost of the additional accessory make this a WIN in my book. I think the rubber hand grips cost about $6 when sold separate from the Quark lights. 
Just check their website. 

I'll try to update this post with photos if anyone is interested.


----------



## cubebike

I just received my Surefire Fury. I wanna to use 18650 on it and tried to loosen the bezel. Out of surprise, I was able to hand turn it! I only found very minimal amount of thread lock over the bezel thread. I was lucky I guess. I bored it using hand reamer (no machinist would like to do it in my place of living)! I am happy with the use of 18650 and I think it would be good cycling flashlight !


----------



## dmitchell28

I am in the market for one of these wonderful lights. I was looking to get the defender fury, but have decided that as LE officer I can use the dual output more than the nice strike bezel. The cheapest I have found one of these lights is around $110 shipped. Does anyone else have any better places to buy one or one that they do not want? Sure would be a big help.


----------



## pjandyho

dmitchell28 said:


> I am in the market for one of these wonderful lights. I was looking to get the defender fury, but have decided that as LE officer I can use the dual output more than the nice strike bezel. The cheapest I have found one of these lights is around $110 shipped. Does anyone else have any better places to buy one or one that they do not want? Sure would be a big help.


Just out of curiosity. As an LE officer, how would the dual output benefit you? I am not in the LE industry so correct me if I am wrong, but would you not want the light to come on in full blast when met with a high stress tactical situation? Surely the dual output Fury is not suitable for a situation like this since it come on in low output first? Maybe you might want to consider a separate light for those times when you just needed it for writing memo, checking ID, and stuff like that?


----------



## dmitchell28

pjandyho said:


> Just out of curiosity. As an LE officer, how would the dual output benefit you? I am not in the LE industry so correct me if I am wrong, but would you not want the light to come on in full blast when met with a high stress tactical situation? Surely the dual output Fury is not suitable for a situation like this since it come on in low output first? Maybe you might want to consider a separate light for those times when you just needed it for writing memo, checking ID, and stuff like that?



You bring up a very valid point my friend. I had a guy talk me into this way earlier but I like the way you think...I could essentially use the defender as a weapon light on my AR also!


----------



## shurt

Can the bezel be taken off the Fury and used on my SF shotgun light? I'm going back to nights and started looking at my "dated" lights. My Surefire shotgun light has the P61 bulb and put out 120 lumens. Back in the late 80's this was acceptable but now it appears there are sooooo many choices. It would be cool if the Fury bezel could be screwed on my shotgun light. Suggestions? Can this be done?


ps. I'm brand spanking new to the forum so please be patient with me. Plus ..... I'm old!


----------



## kyhunter1

Welcome to the forum. Lot's of good information here. At this time, that's not possible without some form of an adapter. There's alot of really good mounting solutions out there to mount a Fury to your shotgun. As long as the mount accepts a 1 inch body diameter, you should be good. Elzetta makes a good mount that is easy to work with. Probably your best option is to replace the P61 with a led module in the light you already have. My M590A1 has a 6P mounted to it with a Malkoff M60 led module. 



shurt said:


> Can the bezel be taken off the Fury and used on my SF shotgun light? I'm going back to nights and started looking at my "dated" lights. My Surefire shotgun light has the P61 bulb and put out 120 lumens. Back in the late 80's this was acceptable but now it appears there are sooooo many choices. It would be cool if the Fury bezel could be screwed on my shotgun light. Suggestions? Can this be done?
> 
> 
> ps. I'm brand spanking new to the forum so please be patient with me. Plus ..... I'm old!


----------



## dmitchell28

You veteran cpf members tell me some good places to find good deals on these lights?


----------



## tobrien

dmitchell28 said:


> You veteran cpf members tell me some good places to find good deals on these lights?



LA Police Gear has it for $115.50


----------



## JWRitchie76

I put up a WTB in the B/S/T forum and scored a new one for $80.


----------



## ganymede

JWRitchie76 said:


> I put up a WTB in the B/S/T forum and scored a new one for $80.



Niceeee!


----------



## sticks96

Are there any two stage tailcap options for the Fury? I love the LX2 UI where I can press a little for dimmer light, press more for a bright light & twist little for dim, twist more for bright. 

Thanks
Sticks


----------



## Foskey

^^^ That would be awesome. I would purchase one for sure.


----------



## Moonwayman

I've had the two mode, regular bezel Fury for over 5 months now and I am very happy with it. The 15 lumen mode is bright for most tasks and the 500 mode packs a nice punch. Being an xml, it is very floody and useful, but the raw horsepower allows it to throw over 100 yards. Mine looks somewhat green on low and more neutral on high at least to my eyes. No rings and the beam is clean and pleasing. It's been dropped a few times and I've had no problems with it. The factory batteries lasted me 4 months which i thought was great given how much I used it. If you look around they can be had for a much cheaper price than retail. To me the flashlight is worth every penny. Surefire got the Fury right. Only minor issue I had is that the switch makes a small creeking sound when it is depressed. I assume it is the spring rubbing against the walls?


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

shurt said:


> Can the bezel be taken off the Fury and used on my SF shotgun light? I'm going back to nights and started looking at my "dated" lights. My Surefire shotgun light has the P61 bulb and put out 120 lumens. Back in the late 80's this was acceptable but now it appears there are sooooo many choices. It would be cool if the Fury bezel could be screwed on my shotgun light. Suggestions? Can this be done?



Earlier in this thread we were assured by very good authority that the Fury was not meant to be used as a weaponlight:



Size15's said:


> The X-type handheld flashlights are not for weapon-mounted applications. This has always been a given of these new handhelds.
> 
> So they may well eventually suffer physical damage as a result of weapon recoil.
> My point was that "bare circuitry exposed to the batteries" was conflating without the context that we now understand relates to [the desire to use] misuse the P2X-B as a weapon-mounted light.
> 
> Bare circuity it is not. SureFire's electronics are conformal coated.
> 
> The circuity (PCB) featuring the positive contact for the battery without any intermediate physical component(s) is certainly the case.



However, SF has now introduced a weaponlight kit for the P2X Fury:

http://www.ondutygear.com/blog/sure...-and-new-x300-x400-ir-2013-shot-show/2013/01/


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

More details emerge on the P3X and P2X weaponlight versions of the Fury. As pictured in the link above there is a new tailcap assembly called the 'Omni' switch. A shroud is slid back to disable, you can push the tailcap to the side for momentary and twist it for constant on.

The weaponlight Fury's are listed at 800 and 600 lumens for the three and two cell versions as mentioned last month at the SHOT Show.


----------



## gradio

Give it a low, medium & high mode, make it tail stand and I'd like my Fury even more. I'm okay I guess it doesn't have the knurling like some of my other lights.


----------



## Foskey

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> More details emerge on the P3X and P2X weaponlight versions of the Fury. As pictured in the link above there is a new tailcap assembly called the 'Omni' switch. A shroud is slid for back to disable, you can push the tailcap to the side for momentary and twist it for constant on.
> 
> The weaponlight Fury's are listed at 800 and 600 lumens for the three and two cell versions as mentioned last month at the SHOT Show.



this is great news! Can't wait to pick both up!


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

gradio said:


> Give it a low, medium & high mode, make it tail stand and I'd like my Fury even more. I'm okay I guess it doesn't have the knurling like some of my other lights.



My number one wish would be to make the Fury less prone to roll off a table or nightstand. Every time mine drop tests itself onto my wife's tile kitchen floor I realize how the light got its name. :devil:


----------



## P_A_S_1

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> My number one wish would be to make the Fury less prone to roll off a table or nightstand. Every time mine drop tests itself onto my wife's tile kitchen floor I realize how the light got its name. :devil:




lol


----------



## precisionworks

FWIW ... Fury running 1x18650 (Panasonic 3400 mAh). Reading recorded every five minutes until output reached 50 lumens (as SF does). Pretty impressive.


----------



## kyhunter1

This tempts me to have my fury bored for 18mm. Impressive numbers. Looks like 90% of initial brightness after 30 min, 83% after an hour, and 70% after 90 minutes. Not bad at all. I wander how it would do with a aw2600 18650? They hold voltage a little better over longer runtimes which may cause it to run even flatter but with a shorter runtime overall. 





precisionworks said:


> FWIW ... Fury running 1x18650 (Panasonic 3400 mAh). Reading recorded every five minutes until output reached 50 lumens (as SF does). Pretty impressive.


----------



## Swedpat

kyhunter1 said:


> This tempts me to have my fury bored for 18mm. Impressive numbers. Looks like 90% of initial brightness after 30 min, 83% after an hour, and 70% after 90 minutes. Not bad at all. I wander how it would do with a aw2600 18650? They hold voltage a little better over longer runtimes which may cause it to run even flatter but with a shorter runtime overall.



The same here. I use it partly with 17670, but I understand 18650 will provide significantly better result. It should be quite expensive to send it away, propably to USA(maybe Oveready can do it?) from Sweden, but...


----------



## precisionworks

> ... how it would do with a aw2600 18650?


Your turn to do the next graph 

Seriously there are a few points to remember ... this was a new cell that was charged & left off the charger for a week before the test. New 18650's lose some capacity over time so a six month run chart will look different.

The Fury uses a MPCB & not a spring contact. You'll need either button top cells or a charging magnet to make contact at the LE.

If you plan to run the Panasonic 3400 cell (and I believe AW uses Panasonics) they are super fat. Final bore needs to run 18.90mm or plan on using a hammer to insert & remove from a light that works on the other 90% of available cells. I ream for final size so the tubes run from 18.90mm to 18.92mm. 

Here's what the Panasonic 3400's look like:


----------



## cubebike

Although it looks ugly ( compare to professional machinist), it serves well


----------



## cubebike

I bored five 6P using the hand reamer in order to take the 3400 mah battery. 
I can use a drill to help out but by using hand/own power, I can ensure the sleeve won't be bored/ remove.

I added some solder to the positive contact to ensure good connection


----------



## JetskiMark

Thank you. My 13 month old question has been positively answered. I have a hand reamer that I have used to bore my M4, M3 and M2 successfully.

I guess I should start looking for a deal on a P2X Fury now.

Like I really needed yet another light. Well, at least I have not bought one yet this month. But then it is only the second day.



JetskiMark said:


> Were the lux readings with the 17670 the same as with the primaries?
> 
> Do you think that there is enough material to bore it to fit an 18650?
> 
> I would definitely buy one if I could run a 3100mAh 18650. Imagine the runtime.





GLOCK 22 said:


> The primaries had a 1000 lux more than the 17670, tough question I believe it would be cutting it awful close on the bore to the 18650. The run time would be awsome.





cubebike said:


> I bored five 6P using the hand reamer in order to take the 3400 mah battery.
> I can use a drill to help out but by using hand/own power, I can ensure the sleeve won't be bored/ remove.
> 
> <Snip>


----------



## precisionworks

Did a little more work on the run time chart, specifically at the bitter end ...







The light went black at 158 minutes & the cell read 2.80v. SF really did a nice job on their driver as I expected black out at 3.1 volts, maybe as low as 3.0v, but did not expect it to keep going to 2.8v. The Vf on the emitter is 3.1v & I believe this indicates a highly efficient driver.

Unlike some XM-L lights the Fury dims gradually over a long period of time & gives the user adequate warning that the cell should be changed. We've all owned lights that went from full on to dead off in five seconds (or less).


----------



## flashlight chronic

Just letting you guys know that my bored out 6PX tactical works very well w/ a 2900maH AW 18650 (flat tops).


----------



## 2000xlt

Damn,,even at 60 min mark that's still a good amount of light output


precisionworks said:


> FWIW ... Fury running 1x18650 (Panasonic 3400 mAh). Reading recorded every five minutes until output reached 50 lumens (as SF does). Pretty impressive.


----------



## precisionworks

2000xlt said:


> ... even at 60 min mark that's still a good amount of light output


+1

On 2xCR123 the story is far different. Image below from http://www.led-resource.com/2012/03/surefire-p2x-fury-review/


----------



## Rik600

Hello,

My fury broke down today.
It fell off a table and went off.
I must say that i am really dissappointed from surefires new cheaper lights.
I bought three 6px some time ago (one for me and two for my fiends) and all had some problems.
All of them got the issue that when tapping the lights on its tailcaps, they change modes.
One changed from high to low when releasing the switch and on another one the switch broke into many pieces because the three plastic Fingers that are holding the gib metal where the spring is fixed snapped off after a few days.
After i called surefire, they send me two new tailcaps but one of them have the mode-switching-when-releasing-error either!
the third light now has an elekronik problem an often doesnt get to the high mode though i testes with different batteries.
All three lights have deformed bezels and scratched windows! How could someone buid a light light in that price range with plastic window and bezel ring and very slim aluminium around it?
So all in all (though i get my money back for the fury and i'm sure surefire would repair all the 6px flashlights), i think i will never buy a surefire flashlight again cause i need a light i can count on.
They are the flashlights i had by far the most trouble with and i only bought them because i thought they where durable!!!!
as i said i am really dissappointed now....does anyone had the same experiences?

Best regards, hendrik


----------



## kyhunter1

Rik600, your bad experience with surefire is not the norm around here.


----------



## pjandyho

kyhunter1 said:


> Rik600, your bad experience with surefire is not the norm around here.


It is the norm concerning the 6PX and G2X Pro but it is not normal with the Fury. I have had problems after problems with both my 6PX and G2X Pro, and so is my friend. Mode switching when lightly tapping on the light, and even mode switching when clicking on the light are all common occurrences for me and my friend. Surefire had sent me a couple of tail caps but problems doesn't get rectified. They occur again after some time of usage. Now I am sick of contacting Surefire in regards to both the 6PX and G2X Pro. The Fury has since replaced both the lights.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

pjandyho said:


> It is the norm concerning the 6PX and G2X Pro but it is not normal with the Fury. I have had problems after problems with both my 6PX and G2X Pro, and so is my friend. Mode switching when lightly tapping on the light, and even mode switching when clicking on the light are all common occurrences for me and my friend. Surefire had sent me a couple of tail caps but problems doesn't get rectified. They occur again after some time of usage. Now I am sick of contacting Surefire in regards to both the 6PX and G2X Pro. The Fury has since replaced both the lights.



Ditto with my experience, I bought probably a dozen 6PX Pro's and G2X Pro's during the 'introductory pricing' period. I gave most away but still have a couple around the house and three or four new in packaging in a drawer somewhere. These were early lights with a new design and some had real problems that many of us documented here on other threads. My wife still has a G2X Pro on her desk, it sometimes takes more than one click to switch modes.

SF customer service originally claimed that they knew of no issues with the lights, a few weeks later they had the 'What took you so long to call? We'll send two extra tailcaps for you to try' attitude. It is quite possible that later editions of these lights no longer have the switch and bump mode change issues.

I like the Fury but wish SF would reinvent the wheel and find a way to keep it from rolling, either with a clip option or better flats as on earlier low-end SF's like the ever classic 6P (later editions, original 6P's would roll).


----------



## ronac

The prototype for my 18650 Fury host just came in. :twothumbs

What do you guys think?


----------



## Slumber

That's really nice Ronac. Is that aluminum?


----------



## ronac

Yup, its aluminum. The final version will be hard anodized black just like the rest of the light. I just need to tweak a couple of dimensions just to nail down the fitment.


----------



## cubebike

Ronac- the body is very nice!


----------



## pjandyho

I think the bare aluminum is cool. Maybe you could have it nickel plated just to add some form of protection?


----------



## Lurveleven

pjandyho said:


> I think the bare aluminum is cool. Maybe you could have it nickel plated just to add some form of protection?



Aluminium can also be clear anodized.


----------



## Aperture

ronac said:


> The prototype for my 18650 Fury host just came in. :twothumbs
> 
> What do you guys think?


Awesome, will you be selling these??

My Fury doesn't see much use anymore after I switched to 18650's a couple of months ago but this mod would put it right back into my hiking/photography pack.


----------



## ronac

I should have the 18650 P2x bodies ready for sale in mid April. They'll most likely only come in hard anodized black.


----------



## HistoryChannel

I'll take 2. Thanks. Where do I Paypal? Lol.


----------



## tarsier22

me also intersted....very good work!!!!!


----------



## Swedpat

Nice *ronac*, I am interested as well!

Hard anodized black should be pretty similar to the stock condition?


----------



## ronac

My goal for the anodizing is definitely to get the closes match to the stock head and tail.


----------



## ronac

Add me on twitter @Cryos_ for the latest updates on the P2X hosts.

I'll be giving away a couple of the prototype bodies to my followers this week. Along with that, there will be more goodies for my followers in the future.


----------



## Aperture

I have the Fury for over a year now and it's been really dependable travel/hiking companion. It's dead simple to operate and I really like that it always begins in low mode and has only one high mode, makes using it a breeze even when it's been a while (I have a very very bad short term memory).

I usually test all my lights for waterproofness before they accompany me on one of my trips, in this case the test was rather fun as it lit up an entire Jacuzzi for an hour or so by lying on the bottom being kicked around while I was sipping on a nice white wine telling my baffled friends not to worry because it was a Surefire (as if they knew what that was)


----------



## precisionworks

> I like the Fury but wish SF would reinvent the wheel and find a way to keep it from rolling, either with a clip option ...


The titanium clip made by Jason (Dark Sucks) is a perfect fit for the Fury & other lights with the same dimension at the tailcap end. Image below shows where I machine the external O-ring grooves & the front groove (red arrow) is not machined when a clip is to be used.


----------



## MatthewSB

Just got a P2X Fury and a few thoughts...

1. I read a story by a guy on another forum about how he was trying to identify a trespasser and made an *** out of himself when he couldn't get the light to go into high mode. I'm really not sure how this is possible, because my Fury is way easier to switch modes than my E1B clicky. The Fury can be cycled extremely fast, I absolutely love it.

2. The light is way floodier than any of my E series lights. This will replace my LX2 as my "go to" light when size doesn't matter. It's far more useful on both high or low mode.

3. The tint is very green. I'm not sure if I care about this or not, but the other SF lights I've bought lately have all had a nice white tint.

4. If they made one with a 2 stage push / twisty tailcap it would be my perfect light.

5. I love that it's black, and not mismatched HA.


----------



## dano

MatthewSB said:


> Just got a P2X Fury and a few thoughts...
> 
> 1. I read a story by a guy on another forum about how he was trying to identify a trespasser and made an *** out of himself when he couldn't get the light to go into high mode. I'm really not sure how this is possible, because my Fury is way easier to switch modes than my E1B clicky. The Fury can be cycled extremely fast, I absolutely love it.
> 
> 2. The light is way floodier than any of my E series lights. This will replace my LX2 as my "go to" light when size doesn't matter. It's far more useful on both high or low mode.
> 
> 3. The tint is very green. I'm not sure if I care about this or not, but the other SF lights I've bought lately have all had a nice white tint.
> 
> 4. If they made one with a 2 stage push / twisty tailcap it would be my perfect light.
> 
> 5. I love that it's black, and not mismatched HA.



I'd think that a standard SF twisty tailcap would work on the Fury, to facilitate the stage changes.


----------



## Greenbean

allemander said:


> I have discovered an effective solution to combat the slippery feel of the Fury and I thought I'd share this easy non-permanent 'mod' since I have not yet seen it mentioned anywhere else (forgive me if I overlooked it).
> 
> I simply took the rubber hand grip that came with a couple of my Foursevens Quark lights and slip it onto the Fury, .


*
Thanks for the info, I have two of those left over and have been wondering what I would use them for, *:thumbsup:


----------



## fresh eddie fresh

MatthewSB said:


> Just got a P2X Fury and a few thoughts...
> 
> 1. I read a story by a guy on another forum about how he was trying to identify a trespasser and made an *** out of himself when he couldn't get the light to go into high mode. I'm really not sure how this is possible, because my Fury is way easier to switch modes than my E1B clicky. The Fury can be cycled extremely fast, I absolutely love it.



I have not seen the original story, but were his batteries ok? All of my two-level Surefire lights will just go on low mode only when the batteries are getting too low to power the high mode.


----------



## Greenbean

*I am excited abuot getting a Fury, soon....

I have to let my bank acct get cought back up with recent Ebay goodness and WTS forum addiction, 

When I ride at night with my police friends I always go to my Streamlight Protac HL, we love the Low/High
operation, it's the perfect duty light for evening patrol for our area and needs, we never seem to use strobe...
Although the Forest Rangers in our area say it's great for bears, hahaha...

But it DOES NOT like a 17670, it will work on a full charge but I installed a 17670 at a lower voltage and it would not
work, 

So to see that the Fury can be bored and you can use an 18650 is awesome, Sounds like Surefire knew this "would"
happen but built this light for CR123 anyway, *:thumbsup:* 

Thanks to you guys who have the funds and equiptment to try and innovate for the rest of us to enjoy the fruit, 

*:twothumbs


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

precisionworks said:


> The titanium clip made by Jason (Dark Sucks) is a perfect fit for the Fury & other lights with the same dimension at the tailcap end. Image below shows where I machine the external O-ring grooves & the front groove (red arrow) is not machined when a clip is to be used.



Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out. :thumbsup:


----------



## Filip11

I'm buying a new flashlight, and have sticked with Fenix TK22 until my budget suddenly expanded. P2X Fury Dual Output was the first thing which came to my mind. Do you think that Fury is worh an extra money over TK22?


----------



## Greenbean

*Without a doubt....

That Fury can be bored and ran on a 18650 rechargeable... Which is awesome!!!!
*


----------



## Filip11

I'll think about it for a few more days. Pluses on Fenix's side are better UI (more modes, strobe), SS bazel, and battery lifetime on lowest mode. Surefire however, is said to be higher quality maker. It would be interesting to see which one is better thrower and more durable in hard conditions.


----------



## Greenbean

Filip11 said:


> I'll think about it for a few more days. Pluses on Fenix's side are better UI (more modes, strobe), SS bazel, and battery lifetime on lowest mode. Surefire however, is said to be higher quality maker. It would be interesting to see which one is better thrower and more durable in hard conditions.


*
You should get the TK22 first and if you don't like it, Sell it to me...

I mean they are only 85 bucks on ebay, free shipping....

I think with the different modes and programming it's not a fair comparison... Sort of.
*


----------



## precisionworks

Greenbean said:


> *
> I think with the different modes and programming it's not a fair comparison... Sort of.
> *



+1

A similar light to the TK22 is the Nitecore EC25, more of an apples-to-apples comparison.

The Fury is designed primarily for two markets, LEO & MIL, where durability or survivability outranks all else. SF claims 500L but every one that I've measured runs higher, 600L+ is what I see (in my non-ANSI shop built sphere). Add a reflector that's both wide & deep & both throw & spill are excellent. One big plus, if you need to run continuously on the high setting, is that the thermal mass/thermal management of the Fury is top notch ... the head never got over 111°F during a full burn down, dead still air temp at 72°F with the head stuck inside the sphere. Try that with most other XM-L's that are hard driven & head temps can easily reach 140°F+ (meaning who knows what the temp is at the emitter/driver). Many lights go into thermal protection mode at that point & drop the output in half. The Fury doesn't need to.

The lack of clip was a drawback until Jason brought his out. In fairness, most every clip (including those that SF supplies) is a potential failure point. Some lights like the PowerTac E5 shown below can be fitted with a McGizmo clip, others cannot.


----------



## Filip11

@Precisionworks: Do you have any idea how throw, brightness and flood (especially brightness and flood) of Fury competes with TK22? Is TK22's 650 lumens noticeable increase in performance over Fury's 500? And another thing I wonder is build quality. I know that Fenix is built like a tank, so i wonder how much resistance to hard abuse can Fury give?

p.s. Sorry for my bad english.


----------



## precisionworks

Filip11 said:


> ... have any idea how throw, brightness and flood (especially brightness and flood) of Fury competes with TK22?


Sorry, never have had the opportunity to compare those at the same time, but the Fury & the E5 are nearly identical in all three areas. My sphere shows the E5 slightly over 700L (remember that it is not ANSI-calibrated so those are comparison numbers, not absolute numbers). Visual perception cannot tell the difference between 500L & 700L - lumens need to double (or be halved) to see the diff.



> ... I know that Fenix is built like a tank, so i wonder how much resistance to hard abuse can Fury give?


SF is legendary for durability & toughness. This image shows thickness at the front of the tube compared to a 6P:






There are millions of SF's in general use & as well as spec ops use by the US Military & that doesn't include the thousands (probably hundreds of thousands) used by LEO-FF-EMT & their agencies. I'm sure you'll find Fenix & many other high quality lights in both military & public service usage, but in much smaller numbers. There are other handheld lights that are heavily constructed (aka over built) & Elzetta immediately comes to mind as does HDS. Probably others as well but the list is short.


----------



## MatthewSB

> Is TK22's 650 lumens noticeable increase in performance over Fury's 500?



Surefire consistently underestimates their lumen rating.

My Fury is brighter than any other 2xcr123 light I've compared it to, including ones that advertise 800+ lumens.


----------



## JohnnyBravo

I've been eye-balling the dual mode Fury for over a year now. Just pulled the trigger and ordered one last Friday; received some B'day money  Too bad mine is on back order. I'm thinking about the Titanium clip from Jason @ DarkSucks...


----------



## Greenbean

JohnnyBravo said:


> I've been eye-balling the dual mode Fury for over a year now. Just pulled the trigger and ordered one last Friday; received some B'day money  Too bad mine is on back order. I'm thinking about the Titanium clip from Jason @ DarkSucks...



*Cool, 

I really want the Fury and the Combat version but I want to switch the heads and switches to have that body, *


----------



## tobrien

the Fury P2X Defender single output is still $117.79 at Amazon if y'all wanna pick up one for a good price.

so I'm considering having PW bore my Fury. The Fury will have the most output at any given time on an 18650 correct? I realize an 18650 can be as much as 3400 mAh, just over twice the capacity of 2x CR123s, but if we were to hard limit the 18650 setup with the CR123 setup such that they both ran the same exact length of time (being the max runtime of the CR123), the 18650 puts out more light at any given time right?


----------



## Greenbean

*Oh, great question, 

I just love rechargeable Lumens....I am pretty sure PW has been messing with the 2-stage Fury, though.

He will let us know if he has messed with a single stage version, 

That's why I sold my two Streamlights to get the Fury, very soon we shall be united! *


----------



## Swedpat

precisionworks said:


> SF claims 500L but every one that I've measured runs higher, 600L+ is what I see (in my non-ANSI shop built sphere)



I have done ceiling bounce lux comparisons between Fury and several other lights. I'ts brighter than for example Fenix LD41(520lm) and initial lux value actually higher than Fenix TK30. Around 600lm was what I then thought.


----------



## Greenbean

*Wow, That is promising, *


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

Greenbean said:


> *But it DOES NOT like a 17670, it will work on a full charge but I installed a 17670 at a lower voltage and it would not work,*



I've been running my Fury on an AW 17670 for a while now, it works fine, has both levels etc. It is an early model, is yours the more recent version with the upgraded emitter perhaps?


----------



## Greenbean

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> I've been running my Fury on an AW 17670 for a while now, it works fine, has both levels etc. It is an early model, is yours the more recent version with the upgraded emitter perhaps?



*That was my Streamlight Protac HL I sold, it didn't like a 17670 at around 4.0V or so, 

I am about to get a Fury and have it bored for an 18650... *


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

Greenbean said:


> *That was my Streamlight Protac HL I sold, it didn't like a 17670 at around 4.0V or so,
> 
> I am about to get a Fury and have it bored for an 18650... *



Thanks, I've got a nice three emitter dropin that is like that, it won't run long on high with a 17670, I probably need to put it in an 18650 host.


----------



## Greenbean

*Hmmm, 

The operating voltages of each cell should be the same, you just gain more run time for a given output with the larger battery, 

Do you know the voltage requirements of your triple there? *


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

Greenbean said:


> *Hmmm,
> 
> The operating voltages of each cell should be the same, you just gain more run time for a given output with the larger battery,
> 
> Do you know the voltage requirements of your triple there? *



I think the current draw is a little too much for my well used 17670's and the dropin is like you described, will only go to high with a single 17670 when it is fresh off the charger and even then some tailcaps have too much voltage drop.

The dropin has a 3-6 volt advertised range with a 2.75 volt over-discharge protection.

It sounded familiar, more here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...tral-White-)&p=4133700&viewfull=1#post4133700


----------



## tobrien

what type of driver is in the Fury single output anyways? buck?


----------



## precisionworks

tobrien said:


> ... if we were to hard limit the 18650 setup with the CR123 setup such that they both ran the same exact length of time (being the max runtime of the CR123), the 18650 puts out more light at any given time right?



That depends on the driver+emitter & in the case of the Fury the starting lumen level is identical on either 2xCR123 or 1x18650 ... but the 2xCR123 drops out of regulation much sooner. I ran the chart below (red dots) in my sphere & used 500L as the starting output - didn't want to get into a "my lumens are bigger than your lumens match", just a relative comparison. Blue line is an interpolation from a runtime chart on LED-resource.com (which is why there are only a few data points):







For the first 60 minutes the light output is close enough to call identical as seen by human eyes. The CR123's are almost out of gas at that point, the output drops out of regulation & the lumens start decreasing quickly. The 18650 runs another 25 minutes or so before the drop begins & it doesn't hit the 50L mark until almost 2.5 hours (new 3400 protected Panasonic, YMMV with other cells).



> *He will let us know if he has messed with a single stage version,
> *


Two just arrived in a BCM (Bravo Company) carton, the first Pat Rogers-EAG Tactical lights that I've had in the shop http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Sure...Single-Output-LED-p/sf-p2x-a-bk-eag-click.htm In stock currently, $120.90 + about $10 Priority Mail shipping. I don't expect to see any difference BUT will not know for sure until boring is finished & the Fluke meter looks at the amp draw.



> ... what type of driver is in the Fury single output anyways? buck?


I'm way out of my lane (  ) but this is what it seems like ... 2xCR123 produce 6.3v with fresh cells. Vf on the XM-L is 2.1v & the driver losses eat up another volt so the XM-L Fury needs +/- 3.1v to run in regulation. The driver is designed to buck the 6.3v to 3.1v or at least that's how it appears. The XM-L continues to have some output until around 2.8v according to my Fluke.


----------



## MatthewSB

precisionworks said:


> Two just arrived in a BCM (Bravo Company) carton, the first Pat Rogers-EAG Tactical lights that I've had in the shop http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Sure...Single-Output-LED-p/sf-p2x-a-bk-eag-click.htm In stock currently, $120.90 + about $10 Priority Mail shipping. I don't expect to see any difference BUT will not know for sure until boring is finished & the Fluke meter looks at the amp draw.



Those "...Specially made for BCM at the request of EAG" Fury lights look like the normal single stage fury, but cost more.

What is the difference?


----------



## Slumber

MatthewSB said:


> Those "...Specially made for BCM at the request of EAG" Fury lights look like the normal single stage fury, but cost more.
> 
> What is the difference?



It appears that they come with clicky tailcaps instead of the twisty that usually comes with the Tactical model. I know the defender model is similar, but many people aren't fond of the sharp crenellations.


----------



## tobrien

precisionworks said:


> That depends on the driver+emitter & in the case of the Fury the starting lumen level is identical on either 2xCR123 or 1x18650 ... but the 2xCR123 drops out of regulation much sooner. I ran the chart below (red dots) in my sphere & used 500L as the starting output - didn't want to get into a "my lumens are bigger than your lumens match", just a relative comparison. Blue line is an interpolation from a runtime chart on LED-resource.com (which is why there are only a few data points):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the first 60 minutes the light output is close enough to call identical as seen by human eyes. The CR123's are almost out of gas at that point, the output drops out of regulation & the lumens start decreasing quickly. The 18650 runs another 25 minutes or so before the drop begins & it doesn't hit the 50L mark until almost 2.5 hours (new 3400 protected Panasonic, YMMV with other cells).
> 
> Two just arrived in a BCM (Bravo Company) carton, the first Pat Rogers-EAG Tactical lights that I've had in the shop http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Sure...Single-Output-LED-p/sf-p2x-a-bk-eag-click.htm In stock currently, $120.90 + about $10 Priority Mail shipping. I don't expect to see any difference BUT will not know for sure until boring is finished & the Fluke meter looks at the amp draw.
> 
> I'm way out of my lane (  ) but this is what it seems like ... 2xCR123 produce 6.3v with fresh cells. Vf on the XM-L is 2.1v & the driver losses eat up another volt so the XM-L Fury needs +/- 3.1v to run in regulation. The driver is designed to buck the 6.3v to 3.1v or at least that's how it appears. The XM-L continues to have some output until around 2.8v according to my Fluke.



oh shoot, thanks a TON for that graph. I'm getting mine bored out then 

thanks so much PW 

p.s.: when I get back home my Fury will be getting sent out to you, thanks a ton


----------



## kyhunter1

PW, could you possibly do a graph with 17670 vs primaries? The 18650 graph tempts me to get mine bored.


----------



## precisionworks

Slumber Pass said:


> It appears that they come with clicky tailcaps instead of the twisty that usually comes with the Tactical model. ...


Exactly.

Pat Rogers owns & runs EAG Tactical, one of the premier handgun & carbine training schools in the USA. As his website says"


> We are a Department of Defense Trading Partner, and are assigned Cage Code 1JBD5.
> 
> We provide training to the Military, other US Government agencies, state and municipal organizations, as well as open enrollment courses per year to qualified civilians.



Pat loves the Fury but the two stage model isn't suitable for tactical & defensive use because it always starts on low & it can cycle from high to low. Pat collaborated with Paul Buffoni (owner of BCM/Bravo Company) who agreed to handle distribution if SF would make the light ... which they did with assistance from 2_gun_mojo (don't ask, I don't know). 

The single stage, non DNA collecting model is used by many carbine owners as a WML (weapon mounted light). SF never intended the Fury to see WML duty but according to users it does a fine job. As it does handheld by the many LEO's-FF-EMT's who use them. 



> ... thanks a TON for that graph.


You're certainly welcome. I started using the Fury on 2xCR123 & went through two SF batteries per day ... the bank refused my request for a battery loan so boring seemed like a good idea :nana:


----------



## Toohotruk

kyhunter1 said:


> PW, could you possibly do a graph with 17670 vs primaries? The 18650 graph tempts me to get mine bored.


I run my Fury on 17670s, so I'd be interested to see that graph as well.


----------



## precisionworks

Toohotruk said:


> I run my Fury on 17670s, so I'd be interested to see that graph as well.



I've held one 17670 in my hand & that was to test fit the cell after boring. Other than that there have never been any 17670's in the shop. 

Most (emphasis on most) lights that can run 17670 can also be bored for 18650 - cannot remember how many E & L Surefires I've bored for 18650 but quite a few. Most of you already know this but 18650 is the King of Batteries for only one reason ... laptop computers. Without laptops we'd probably have 18650's rated for a whopping 1500 mAh, maybe as much as 2000 mAh, but not the current 3400 mAh. They simply blow away everything else.

Soooooo, someone needs to step up to the plate & graph out the 17670 :nana:


----------



## Tana

So the era of modded Surefire X-series has finally began... with P2X... that's awesome...

At least there is some lego-bility between 6PX, P2X and their Z counterparts... I've had my eyes on that P2ZX for quite some time now... and it would be swappable with my 6PX I already have and plan to upgrade with Nichia219 emitter...

PrecisionWorks is breathing some new life into P2X... those runtime graphs look fantastic, almost like using CR123's in it is completely obsolete...


----------



## kyhunter1

I would be more than happy to do it if I had the equipment. 



precisionworks said:


> Soooooo, someone needs to step up to the plate & graph out the 17670 :nana:


----------



## Toohotruk

Tana said:


> So the era of modded Surefire X-series has finally began... with P2X... that's awesome...
> 
> At least there is some lego-bility between 6PX, P2X and their Z counterparts... I've had my eyes on that P2ZX for quite some time now... and it would be swappable with my 6PX I already have and plan to upgrade with Nichia219 emitter...
> 
> PrecisionWorks is breathing some new life into P2X... those runtime graphs look fantastic, almost like using CR123's in it is completely obsolete...



I've been contemplating boring out the body on my 6PX and swapping it to the Fury...that way I could switch the Fury back to stock if needed. But the 17670s are working for me, so I guess there's no urgent need to do anything at the moment, other than the urge to mod something for the sake of modding something. As many of you know, it can be a strong urge at times... :duh2:


----------



## HistoryChannel

Would it be worth waiting for the SF PR1 Peacekeeper 700lm 18650 which looks like a version of the Fury/6PX line? When i called, SF says Mid year for the Peacekeeper. I'd hate to get a Fury now and in 2 months it gets updated.


----------



## Greenbean

HistoryChannel said:


> Would it be worth waiting for the SF PR1 Peacekeeper 700lm 18650 which looks like a version of the Fury/6PX line? When i called, SF says Mid year for the Peacekeeper. I'd hate to get a Fury now and in 2 months it gets updated.



* Very true, I never thought about that one, 

I need to read up on the specs, I love the switch and how the Fury changes modes, 

However if it had changeable modes the user could configure, that would be even better for me, 

Do we have any idea what the LED it's in it? 

*


----------



## HistoryChannel

The Fury is getting an update to 600 lumen. The PR1 Peacekeeper is supposed to be 2 mode 15/700lm light that takes 18650 straight out of the box, no boring required. Finally. 

I don't know what they mean by "Mid-year" though. May, June, July could be considered close to mid year.

It's starting to pop up as "coming soon" : http://www.lapolicegear.com/sf-p1r-peacekeeper.html


----------



## Greenbean

*Interesting, I didn't know they were updating the Fury? A newer LED or is this driver related, 

Can the human eye tell 600 vs 500 Lumens?*


----------



## HistoryChannel

Greenbean said:


> *Interesting, I didn't know they were updating the Fury? A newer LED or is this driver related,
> 
> Can the human eye tell 600 vs 500 Lumens?*



At 1:35 the guy demos the PR1 Peacekeeper!!!! It looks like the Fury but in 18650 700/15 lumen version. In this video he says May/June time frame which matches the SF Customer service who said mid-year. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9TtCmXYyTk&sns=em

And the video starts with a 500lm E2DL Defender! And you can see the Fury as well on the stand.

Towards the end he demos an 800 lm Fury 3 cell. So that's why I was asking is this an awkward time to buy the current Fury with an update in a month or two?


----------



## Greenbean

*HOLY COW! 

I was excited to see the P3X , 800 Lumens, and 15 Lumens, 

Tell you what, that 500 Lumens E2D looks great, 

I'm really curious to see what it's all about, the new Fury that is, 

Maybe the current Fury will drop in price, lol...*


----------



## HistoryChannel

I doubt it, the current fury is getting an update to 600lm. Probably same price?

There are longer videos of the SF booth. Just search Surefire Shot Show 2013. I didn't want to post a link to the full video where the guy demos all their upcoming update and lights since this is a Fury thread.


----------



## Greenbean

*10-4, 

That makes sense, 

So he stated too a longer ringtone with the rechargeable Fury, could it be the same LED but a change in the driver to better work with a Litho cell? 

Looks like Surefire has been on the Forums, lol...
*


----------



## tobrien

HistoryChannel said:


> The Fury is getting an update to 600 lumen. The PR1 Peacekeeper is supposed to be 2 mode 15/700lm light that takes 18650 straight out of the box, no boring required. Finally.
> 
> I don't know what they mean by "Mid-year" though. May, June, July could be considered close to mid year.
> 
> It's starting to pop up as "coming soon" : http://www.lapolicegear.com/sf-p1r-peacekeeper.html



i hope they come out with a single mode PR1.


----------



## Novan3

precisionworks said:


> I started using the Fury on 2xCR123 & went through two SF batteries per day ... the bank refused my request for a battery loan so boring seemed like a good idea



I've been using AW 3.7v rechargeables in my P2X Defender with great success. Would boring to run on a 18650 gain any sort of edge over that?.. In output, runtime?


----------



## Tana

Toohotruk said:


> I've been contemplating boring out the body on my 6PX and swapping it to the Fury...that way I could switch the Fury back to stock if needed. But the 17670s are working for me, so I guess there's no urgent need to do anything at the moment, other than the urge to mod something for the sake of modding something. As many of you know, it can be a strong urge at times... :duh2:



I understand that "urge" 100%... 

I even consider installing Nichia219 LED instead of XPE... less throw, better beam/tint...

However, I wish I've opted for tactical version instead of pro on my 6PX as I have that dreadful pre-flash when turning on...

That's why this tactical Fury sounds really interesting... and then I can swap bodies for stock/modded look... the o-ring precisionwork is making on those bodies look really interesting...


----------



## HistoryChannel

Novan3 said:


> I've been using AW 3.7v rechargeables in my P2X Defender with great success. Would boring to run on a 18650 gain any sort of edge over that?.. In output, runtime?



I'm assuming you mean you are using AW 3.7v 17670 1600mAh rechargeable? The difference between that and 18650 is capacity of up to more than double in mAh:

17mm diameter / 67mm length / 0 cylindrical (17670) 1600 mAh (AW)
Vs
18mm diameter / 65mm length / 0 cylindrical (18650) up to 3400 mAh

That's why the 18650's are so desirable.


----------



## biglights

What does it run to have this done?


----------



## Novan3

HistoryChannel said:


> I'm assuming you mean you are using AW 3.7v 17670 1600mAh rechargeable? The difference between that and 18650 is capacity of up to more than double in mAh:
> .



Not 100% sure; this is what I have, the smaller one on the bottom is the kind I use in my Fury Defender. Lasts about 2 weeks with general use (2-10 mins/day) per charge.

Boring for 18650 would be great if runtime doubles.


----------



## HistoryChannel

Oh, ok. I assumed wrong...lol. You are running rcr123s. You should see huge runtime increase by going to 18650.


----------



## HistoryChannel

biglights said:


> What does it run to have this done?



PrecisionWorks does it for $42. You ship it to them and they bore it when they can and ship it back. 

https://precisionworks.co/

Or there are probably others on CPF that will do this as well.


----------



## biglights

HistoryChannel said:


> PrecisionWorks does it for $42. You ship it to them and they bore it when they can and ship it back.
> 
> https://precisionworks.co/
> 
> Or there are probably others on CPF that will do this as well.



Thanks!


----------



## Novan3

biglights said:


> Thanks!



+1!


----------



## precisionworks

> Boring for 18650 would be great if runtime doubles.


The chart in post #994 shows a large increase in runtime ... but not double. Primaries run the light in regulation for 60 minutes, 18650 stays in regulation for 90 minutes. 

*IMPORTANT NOTE:* The early new-gen lights are solidly glued together with red loctite - lots & lots of red loctite. If you have an early 6PX or P2X be sure that you can remove the head if you want it bored. If you cannot unscrew the head it is impossible to have it bored. All the newer Fury's I've seen can be easily unscrewed with firm hand pressure & this also applies to the newer EAG-BCM Fury.


----------



## Greenbean

precisionworks said:


> *IMPORTANT NOTE:* The early new-gen lights are solidly glued together with red loctite - lots & lots of red loctite. If you have an early 6PX or P2X be sure that you can remove the head if you want it bored. If you cannot unscrew the head it is impossible to have it bored. All the newer Fury's I've seen can be easily unscrewed with firm hand pressure & this also applies to the newer EAG-BCM Fury.



*Now that is very important news, thanks for letting us know!*


----------



## Novan3

I hope that could mean I can swap my 500 lm Fury head with a 800 lm P3X Fury head somewhere down the road.


----------



## dansciurus

YAY!!! I got it! 
The proto P2X body, that I won from [email protected] came today 
I had been running an AW17670(1600mah) in it, with no complaints except for run time on high was shorter than CR123s. 

It's all pretty straight forward. I did have to hand bore it a little bit to fit the zombie battery(3400mah), as Callies Kustom batteries run a little big, but that only took a few strokes with some sandpaper duck-taped to a drill bit 

Now that the 18650 is in, the run time has seemingly doubled. It takes much longer for the light to start dropping in eyeball'd lumen count.

Anyways here come the pictures.






























I am extremely happy with the body. The threads were awesome, and it works perfect. I don't mind the raw finish, but I will probably be sending it back in when ronac gets the anodizing matched up good. Couldn't be happier   

As a side note to [email protected]: I am Dan, and had emailed you about boring my fury. The firefighter/towtruck driver who was using too many primaries a week. Sadly, I will be bowing out for now 
I figure this way I can still send it in for the warranty. Someday I might have to have some trits installed...those slots in the new body look about perfect for something like that. Thanks for everything though!


----------



## ronac

^ Glad to hear you got the 18650 P2X body so quickly! Enjoy!

I'll keep everyone posted on when the production batch is ready to ship.


----------



## Novan3

ronac said:


> I'll keep everyone posted on when the production batch is ready to ship.



Will they be type 3 anondized?


----------



## ronac

Absolutely. It will be available with a Type 3 anodized finish exactly like all the other products I offer.


----------



## AZPops

ronac said:


> ^ Glad to hear you got the 18650 P2X body so quickly! Enjoy!
> 
> I'll keep everyone posted on when the production batch is ready to ship.



PM sent!


----------



## cubebike

New look for my bored Fury!


----------



## Greenbean

cubebike said:


> New look for my bored Fury!



*That is SEXY!

Where or how did you get that?*


----------



## AZPops

cubebike said:


> New look for my bored Fury!




Now that's *SICK*! .... :thumbsup:


----------



## cubebike

AZPops said:


> Now that's *SICK*! .... :thumbsup:


Yes! I am sick and tired with black fury! In fact , I am using it mostly on mountain biking and silver finish should be more appropriate for biking


----------



## Greenbean

cubebike said:


> Yes! I am sick and tired with black fury! In fact , I am using it mostly on mountain biking and silver finish should be more appropriate for biking



*Please "enlighten"as to how you did it, 

It looks great bro!*


----------



## cubebike

Greenbean said:


> *Please "enlighten"as to how you did it,
> 
> It looks great bro!*



I used caustic soda and a brush! It takes about 10 minutes to completely remove the HA surface and then I used metal polish paste to clean it up! I like the raw aluminium look and have my EA4 and 6P with the same treatment as well !


----------



## Greenbean

cubebike said:


> I used caustic soda and a brush! It takes about 10 minutes to completely remove the HA surface and then I used metal polish paste to clean it up! I like the raw aluminium look and have my EA4 and 6P with the same treatment as well !



*Dang, so you gotta wear gloves and stuff right, how do you protect the lens?

Hmmm, So is it bare now? Do you have to be sure and keep it dry?

It looks awesome though...

I though you bead blasted it or something, 
*


----------



## cubebike

Greenbean said:


> *Dang, so you gotta wear gloves and stuff right, how do you protect the lens?
> 
> Hmmm, So is it bare now? Do you have to be sure and keep it dry?
> 
> It looks awesome though...
> 
> I though you bead blasted it or something,
> 
> 
> *



Own protection is a must! It is bare aluminum finish now and I didn't think about the protection of the lens while I de-annodised it! The flashlight should be water proof so I believe it could withstand the alkaline bath! I have worked on 2 6P, 1 EA4 and 1 fury! So far, both myself and the flashlight still in good shape


----------



## precisionworks

dansciurus said:


> As a side note to [email protected]: I am Dan, and had emailed you about boring my fury. The firefighter/towtruck driver who was using too many primaries a week. Sadly, I will be bowing out for now
> 
> I figure this way I can still send it in for the warranty. Someday I might have to have some trits installed...those slots in the new body look about perfect for something like that. Thanks for everything though!



Just want to mention that I no longer offer trit slots. Jeff Hanko does fantastic work & I highly recommend him. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/member.php?3065-jhanko

IMO the only complaint about the Fury is the too slick grip. Grooving & O-rings totally change the feel of the light:


----------



## JohnnyBravo

Just got my Fury in yesterday's mail! I like it. Does anyone here know why SF puts a small dimple (just right of FURY) on the body just near the tail cap? And why is there a QR/Barcode-like image on the body, just under the edge of the tail-cap that partially still shows when the tail cap is fully screwed down? No complaints, just curious...


----------



## Tana

Anyone find P2ZX more appealing than P2X ??? It sure offers a better grip... and it's only $17 more...


----------



## AZPops

JohnnyBravo said:


> Just got my Fury in yesterday's mail! I like it. Does anyone here know why SF puts a small dimple (just right of FURY) on the body just near the tail cap? And why is there a QR/Barcode-like image on the body, just under the edge of the tail-cap that partially still shows when the tail cap is fully screwed down? No complaints, just curious...




Yup I found o-rings, grommets, and now grooves are a flashlight's friend! 


The space is the perfect spot for an o-ring (I use a smaller one in the void as a base for the big one) ...












... or one of Jason's clips ....


----------



## JohnnyBravo

Thanks AZPops! Doh! I had forgotten that I had looked at and liked the titanium clip from Jason @ Dark Sucks. That should take care of the QR Code and dimple deal at the same time!


----------



## AZPops

JohnnyBravo said:


> Thanks AZPops! Doh! I had forgotten that I had looked at and liked the titanium clip from Jason @ Dark Sucks. That should take care of the QR Code and dimple deal at the same time!




:thumbsup:


----------



## precisionworks

JohnnyBravo said:


> ... anyone here know why SF puts a small dimple (just right of FURY) on the body just near the tail cap? ...


Tail cap lock out indicator IIRC.


----------



## pjandyho

I love the combatlight setup by SF and I also love duo output. Wish they made a Fury just like the P2ZX combatlight but with the LX2's UI.


----------



## JohnnyBravo

Ah Hah! Now, I've been enlightened. Thanks mate...


precisionworks said:


> Tail cap lock out indicator IIRC.


----------



## Novan3

pjandyho said:


> Wish they made a Fury just like the P2ZX combatlight but with the LX2's UI.



A P2ZX Fury with LX2'a UI and a Defender bezel would be sweet.


----------



## Greenbean

*I have been thinking about biting the bullet and getting Fury P2X and the P2ZX models, 

Switching heads and trying to switch bezels also, 

have the body bored, then I have the UI I want with the original Fury and the body I want also in the P2ZX, 

But in one of the videos from the 2013 SHOT shot there was talk they were going to update the Fury LED to have a Max output of 600 Lumens I believe, 

Hmm*


----------



## JohnnyBravo

I just updated my WORD document of my light collection. Hmm, I scored 16,600 LUX on my light meter w/ my FURY on the SF CR123As. I read at LED Resource the candela was at 9400. Perhaps mine is a bit more throwy than floody? I did test other lights' ANSI FL1 candela #s against my own readings; they were very close, so I think my light meter is accurate...


----------



## Aperture

Why not wait for the P1R, 700/15 lumens in a Fury like body and ready from the factory to accept 18650's.

The only big difference is that it starts in high instead of low like the Fury P2X.


----------



## HistoryChannel

That's what I'm waiting for. No use getting a Fury now with the PR1 release coming this month or May. 700 lumens, 18650 battery in a Fury body... That's the light it should have been to begin with. 

It will be a bit more expensive than the fury, but if I factor in that the Fury is only 500lm (vs 700lm for PR1) and I have to send in the body to get bored for another $40-45 anyway, thus voiding SF's warranty.... It's probably worth getting the PR1? If anything to keep the warranty alive. I've used the SF warranty on many occasions and would hate to lose it.

But for those who need a light NOW and can't wait a month for the release of the new 600Lm upgraded Fury or PR1, the current Fury is still a good option. It's a great light, but it's one of those times like buying a 2012 model car in December.....


----------



## sidecross

I bought the early version of the Surefire Fury with glued oh head and it was the last Surefire I will ever buy.

I have used Surefire light for ten’s of years, but they have fallen very far behind in the new technology that is now available.

I write this with great regret as I have always tried to buy USA products regardless of cost, but cost is not the issue today. 

Today my main everyday light is now the Eagletac G25C2.


----------



## HistoryChannel

I don't think they have fallen behind at all. SF can't afford to be on the "bleeding edge" of LED technology as their lights have to be tough and reliable mainly targeted to one major industry. 

I think sometimes we forget that they are primarily a supplier to our Armed Forces. I have many lights from all different brands as well, but the one I carry on-duty and the one next of my bed with my Gun is a SF 6PX Tactical. There is a reason why we don't see our soldiers and special forces with a Fenix or Eagletac or ultrafire on their M4's when their life depends on it. They are unproven in combat. 

I don't have to worry about my SF stepping down to a lower light level in 3 min when clearing a house that could take 10 min. I don't want to worry about 6 different modes and twist heads in a high stress situation. I just want to push the tail button and the light turns on. Not cycle through Low-Med-High-SOS-Strobe etc. With a gun in one hand how do I even twist the head to change modes. I do carry a Fenix PD32UE for routine use for the different output levels but when Sh__ hits the fan, I drop it and drawing the 6PX + Gun. One mode, 320 lumens, no power step downs, etc. predictable, easy to use in high stress. Different use case than the Eagletac. 

I love taking the Eagletac G25C2 or the Nitecore MT26 hiking, lights up the trail like its daylight. 

I think competition is good and healthy. Not everyone has the same needs as I do so SF is not for everyone. I do carry different lights for different occasions, hiking, camping, EDC, etc. 

So I don't think the goal of SF is to be on the forefront of technology.


----------



## pjandyho

I love technologically advanced flashlights but sometimes simplicity is the best.


----------



## sidecross

HistoryChannel said:


> I don't think they have fallen behind at all. SF can't afford to be on the "bleeding edge" of LED technology as their lights have to be tough and reliable mainly targeted to one major industry.
> 
> I think sometimes we forget that they are primarily a supplier to our Armed Forces. I have many lights from all different brands as well, but the one I carry on-duty and the one next of my bed with my Gun is a SF 6PX Tactical. There is a reason why we don't see our soldiers and special forces with a Fenix or Eagletac or ultrafire on their M4's when their life depends on it. They are unproven in combat.
> 
> I don't have to worry about my SF stepping down to a lower light level in 3 min when clearing a house that could take 10 min. I don't want to worry about 6 different modes and twist heads in a high stress situation. I just want to push the tail button and the light turns on. Not cycle through Low-Med-High-SOS-Strobe etc. With a gun in one hand how do I even twist the head to change modes. I do carry a Fenix PD32UE for routine use for the different output levels but when Sh__ hits the fan, I drop it and drawing the 6PX + Gun. One mode, 320 lumens, no power step downs, etc. predictable, easy to use in high stress. Different use case than the Eagletac.
> 
> I love taking the Eagletac G25C2 or the Nitecore MT26 hiking, lights up the trail like its daylight.
> 
> I think competition is good and healthy. Not everyone has the same needs as I do so SF is not for everyone. I do carry different lights for different occasions, hiking, camping, EDC, etc.
> 
> So I don't think the goal of SF is to be on the forefront of technology.



Very well written and I agree! :thumbsup:


----------



## cland72

pjandyho said:


> I love technologically advanced flashlights but sometimes simplicity is the best.



Surefire = reliability + simplicity

Lots of people disappointed in runtime and output don't understand that their ultimate goal is the two attributes above.


----------



## JohnnyBravo

cland72, very well said. Also, I knew full well that this light goes to LOW first, which is what I wanted. Very useful around the house for most needs. Seems like some are either surprised that it does that and/or don't like it. It was very easy for me to research its modes and UI before buying it. Sounds like the new Peacekeeper is around the corner, but for my needs, a 700 Lumens initial blast is not for me...


----------



## cland72

I think the great thing about Surefire is, they have the resources to provide SO many different options, that people ultimately can/will get what they want, even if they have to resort to playing lego.

Perfect example: E1B vs E1L. Same size, one is smooth, one is knurled, one is high/low, the other low/high. You can swap heads/bodies/tailcaps to arrive at your "perfect solution".


----------



## precisionworks

cland72 said:


> ... people disappointed in runtime and output don't understand that their ultimate goal is the two attributes above.



SF always offered a model or two at 500L or above but they've never made a _low cost_ MIL-LEO-FF-EMT light until the Fury. Anyone reading this thread knows that runtime & big lumens are inversely proportional. SF did an excellent job by combining the XM-L with a versatile driver in a package with outstanding thermal management. For example ...

Load the Fury with a pair of fresh SF CR123's or with a just-off-the-charger high capacity 18650, click it onto high mode, lay it down next to the TV remote & spend an hour watching your show of choice. Check the head & body temps every few minutes & the most you'll see is 111° F (44° C). YMMV but that's what I see using a Fluke IR thermometer. The head & battery tube are just above human body temp but not by much. The temp never reaches a critical stage where the output drops. 

Load a (insert name here) with fresh batteries & repeat the test. Watch where you rest the light as surface temps may reach 140° F (60° C). If the high surface temp doesn't bother you this part may - lumen out will typically drop to 1/2 because the thermal sensor goes into self protection mode to avoid driver or emitter damage. I see this time & again on (insert name here) lights, especially the 2-cell smaller profile types. If it looks like an E-series & bangs out 500L or more it will almost certainly go into back up mode. 

Fastest time to thermal setback is 7 minutes of the lights I've tested. They register 700L + for the first few minutes but they drop to 300L and stay there for the duration (& will reset to 700L after cool down with light off). Many of the lights currently advertised at 600L or 700L max output should include a disclaimer that states "turbo mode for intermittent use only". Some users will not notice the drop, others may. If this happens in the middle of the night on a two way shooting range it can & will decrease survivability. Think this only applies to peace keepers? How long does it take to clear your own home (basement, first floor, second floor, garage). If the answer is 5 minutes or more you may want a light whose output remains steady.

Big lumens always come at the expense of short battery life & high heat output. No way around that today.


----------



## HistoryChannel

Well said. That's what I was talking about in response to if SF was falling behind. I think many companies offering up 700, 1000, 1300 lumens and shutting down to a much lower level after just a few minutes are the ones falling behind in a way. 

I would much rather see a 600 Lumen Fury or 700 Lumen Peacekeeper (coming this month or next) that can sustain its output for an hour and a half rather than some light with a mind boggling 800 lumens for only 3 minutes and stepping down to 300 lumens.


----------



## sidecross

I would agree that people who only consider the highest output of a light do not understand the technology leap in high lumen output.

As I have written before a lights ‘Highest output’ is like comparing what an internal combustion engine red line. Most internal engines will not run at their highest RPM for extended periods of time.

My current light an Eagletac G25C2 which replaced my Surefire Fury can easily match the performance of the Surefire just using mid range power and having the option on running Eagletac 3400 mAh 18650 batteries and with a flip up diffuser. :thumbsup:


----------



## HistoryChannel

I agree, the Eagletac G25C2 is one of my favorite lights except for the weird bezel twist thingy. If it didn't have the bezel twisty thingy to change modes it would be my #2 favorite light right now. I can't see it being a reliable light to operate constantly twisting the bezel in dusty or dirty conditions and like I stated earlier I can't carry a light that requires 2 hands to change modes.

But that will change when the 700 Lumen peacekeeper running on 18650 comes out soon, pumping out 700 "SF" Lumens for 1+ hours with no stepdown and first firing on High then low which is perfect for me. Again, SF makes tactical lights for the Armed Forces and consumer products are secondary. Unlike other companies so it really depends on what the person uses it for...?


----------



## Greenbean

HistoryChannel said:


> SF makes tactical lights for the Armed Forces and consumer products are secondary. Unlike other companies so it really depends on what the person uses it for...?



*Ha, Amen, 

That's why I used to love Ferrari, build cars that win Formula-1 races, then make production cars, or so it seemed, 

I too am looking forward to the Peacekeeper, 

I did however love my Protac HL but sold it as it would not run under 4.0? volts on a 17670, But loved the programming,

*


----------



## sidecross

HistoryChannel said:


> I agree, the Eagletac G25C2 is one of my favorite lights except for the weird bezel twist thingy. If it didn't have the bezel twisty thingy to change modes it would be my #2 favorite light right now. I can't see it being a reliable light to operate constantly twisting the bezel in dusty or dirty conditions and like I stated earlier I can't carry a light that requires 2 hands to change modes.
> 
> But that will change when the 700 Lumen peacekeeper running on 18650 comes out soon, pumping out 700 "SF" Lumens for 1+ hours with no stepdown and first firing on High then low which is perfect for me. Again, SF makes tactical lights for the Armed Forces and consumer products are secondary. Unlike other companies so it really depends on what the person uses it for...?



That is a very good reason for using a Surefire Fury; the G25C2 does need two hands to adjust. :thumbsup:

I do maintain my lights my lights frequently and the keep the threaded parts clean with Deoxit; I find this kind of mainatance to my liking and doubt operation failure as compared to a click switch.

I would use a Surefire Fury even with its lower output if it could use 18650 3400mAh batteries.


----------



## Robin24k

HistoryChannel said:


> But that will change when the 700 Lumen peacekeeper running on 18650 comes out soon, pumping out 700 "SF" Lumens for 1+ hours with no stepdown and first firing on High then low which is perfect for me.


I don't think that will happen, it will probably step down to 450-500 lumens after 3 minutes like the R1/UNR/UBR. 700+ lumens generates quite a bit of heat and uses almost twice the power.


----------



## HistoryChannel

Does the 900 Lumen M6 LED version step down like similar sized lights do? I don't have one so I don't know. If it doesn't step down then I would bet the Peacekeeper won't either.


----------



## Robin24k

It would be a closer comparison with R1, as they are limited by the 2900mAh 10.4Wh lithium-ion battery (compared to 27Wh from six 123A in the M6 LED). Runtime is just over an hour with the stepdown, so it wouldn't make sense to further decrease the runtime.


----------



## HistoryChannel

I was just wondering if any high output SF light does a step down?


----------



## Robin24k

Yes, the R1, UNR, and UBR all have the same stepdown to ~450 lumens.


----------



## HistoryChannel

Oh, then the Peacekeeper will probably step down as well. Maybe not the 600lm Fury though?


----------



## Greenbean

*This makes me wonder if the P3X Fury that they showed at SHOT is going to step down, I am sure it will but the head seems a direct copy of the P2 series Fury models, 
but with 9V instead, 

Hmmm*


----------



## Robin24k

Unless the 600-lumen Fury has a 20% more efficient emitter, which isn't likely, it will probably step-down to maintain the same amount of runtime. I think it will be similar to the Streamlight ProTac HL:

http://www.led-resource.com/2012/10/streamlight-protac-hl-led-flashlight-review/


----------



## HistoryChannel

So it seems right around 400-500 lumens seems to be the sweet spot for a no step down flashlight of this size and smaller? The next step in technological advance would be to increase efficiently and reducing generated heat? 

I suppose any company could put an XM-L2 and drive it to 1000 lumens and add a gazillion modes, but the advancement would be heat reduction and efficiency. So we can have more lumens for longer without step down. 

I hope that the new Fury 600lm will have NO step down. That would be a good upgrade.

I guess no one at the SHOT Show asked SF about step downs. :-/


----------



## Lurveleven

Greenbean said:


> *This makes me wonder if the P3X Fury that they showed at SHOT is going to step down, I am sure it will but the head seems a direct copy of the P2 series Fury models,
> but with 9V instead,
> 
> Hmmm*



The UB3T doesn't step down, but it has more mass and better cooling than P3X will have, so it is not easy to tell if P3X will have step down or not.


----------



## Lurveleven

HistoryChannel said:


> I hope that the new Fury 600lm will have NO step down. That would be a good upgrade.



I cannot see, from published runtime curves, that the current Fury uses step down.


----------



## precisionworks

sidecross said:


> I would use a Surefire Fury even with its lower output if it could use 18650 3400mAh batteries.



Any number of CPF members can bore the Fury for 3400 mAh 18650's:







And Ronac offers his big bore tube if you don't want to mod your Fury. Can't think of any good reasons not to run the 18650 unless you're flat broke ... but you wouldn't own a SF if that were the case :nana:



> I hope that the new Fury 600lm will have NO step down.


My unscientific wild guess is no step down & that's based on two observations ... first, the target market is MIL-LEO-FF-EMT & that group will avoid any light with quickly decreasing output. Second reason is that the head is barely warm to the touch on the 500L version. The gurus & techies at SF already know the answer but AFAIK no one is yet talking about the 600L Fury.


----------



## HistoryChannel

If the peacekeeper 700lm has a step down, I'm going to the 600lm Fury and have it bored out. I don't like step downs. 

And like stated earlier, most lights start out bright but dim considerably. SF seems to maintain its high output longer.


----------



## sidecross

HistoryChannel said:


> If the peacekeeper 700lm has a step down, I'm going to the 600lm Fury and have it bored out. I don't like step downs.
> 
> And like stated earlier, most lights start out bright but dim considerably. SF seems to maintain its high output longer.



I certainly understand why you would support Surefire and bore out the 600lm light.

I have one of the first produced Surefire Fury whose head refuses to be loosen, and I use it as is with regular Surefire 123 batteries.

Surefire certainly makes a very compact light and is much shorter than the Eagletac G25C2. :thumbsup:


----------



## Greenbean

*Scored a Fury on eBay for 103, shipped....:thumbsup:

I really like this!

Feels good in the hand, I see how folks think it's slick but as a two stage torch, I see it residing more in my jacket pocket, 

Very very useful interface....
Only one way to improve it would be a user changeable Tactical mode with only on/off full 500 Lumens, 

But Mine has a beautiful cool white beam, PERFECT peripheral spill.... And it fits my 17670 "FOR NOW" :naughty:

Stupid head won't budge with strap wrenches, Lol...*


----------



## dansciurus

Greenbean said:


> *Scored a Fury on eBay for 103, shipped....:thumbsup:
> 
> I really like this!
> 
> Feels good in the hand, I see how folks think it's slick but as a two stage torch, I see it residing more in my jacket pocket,
> 
> Very very useful interface....
> Only one way to improve it would be a user changeable Tactical mode with only on/off full 500 Lumens,
> 
> But Mine has a beautiful cool white beam, PERFECT peripheral spill.... And it fits my 17670 "FOR NOW" :naughty:
> 
> Stupid head won't budge with strap wrenches, Lol...*



If you heat the flashlight up, the red loctite gives loose. It still takes some muscle, but it makes it easier to break it by like 100%.
I read on here that you can set it on top of a toaster, and let it get pretty warm. All I did was do a runtime test with an AW17670. Just left it on the table to see what it would read at. Picked it up and it was warm to the touch but not hot enough to hold it. I gave her a twist, and it popped right apart. Give it a try.


----------



## Greenbean

*lovecpf I am trying that tomorrow....

Thanks!

*


----------



## dansciurus

No problem buddy. I was going to bore mine out, but ended up with a sweet prototype body made by ronac. You might wanna look into it, its in this thread a page or two up from here. That way you don't kill the warranty.


----------



## Greenbean

*Oh I saw that... Lol.. 

Loved the look... And I thing Ronac is going to Anodize them eventually also...IIRC

*


----------



## dansciurus

Yeah. I'll be sending mine back into him to get it anno'd once he gets the color matching figured out. I had to bore mine out just a bit more to make it fit my Callies customs 3400 Panasonic cell. Those bad boys are fatfatfat. Works great though.


----------



## Greenbean

*Cool, I jave some AW 2600 and recently got some XTAR 3100 in a good deal, 

I have recently acquired some neat bodies and when they show up should have me 7 used 18650 cells I think.... 

Where in the heck is the sales thread....hahaha

*


----------



## dansciurus

LOL. Let me know if you want to sell a beat up p6o host. I am looking for one for elcheap. Cant post in the bst yet though hah


----------



## Greenbean

dansciurus said:


> LOL. Let me know if you want to sell a beat up p6o host. I am looking for one for elcheap. Cant post in the bst yet though hah



*If I had one I'de offer it to ya, I don't though...

Lol... So I found Ronacs stuff, but I can't find a "feeler" or "interest" page for the Fury 18650 body?

Any help would be awesome, Even if by PM if needed.*


----------



## ronac

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

I have a batch of 18650 P2X bodies off for anodizing. I'll be starting a sale thread a week from now. Keep an eye out!


----------



## Greenbean

ronac said:


> Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
> 
> I have a batch of 18650 P2X bodies off for anodizing. I'll be starting a sale thread a week from now. Keep an eye out!



*10-4, :thumbsup:*


----------



## AZPops

ronac said:


> Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
> 
> I have a batch of 18650 P2X bodies off for anodizing. I'll be starting a sale thread a week from now. Keep an eye out!



My eye stutter sometimes, so how about some pre-sales? I'm in for one!


PS I mean it* twitches* sometimes! .... :laughing:


----------



## dansciurus

Well I had a one of a kind and felt cool for at least a while. I say you should hold out on them so I can still keep being cool. Don't sell them 

It burns when I Tapatalk...


----------



## ronac

Yours is still one of a kind. A raw aluminum prototype!

I probably forgot to mention earlier but orders for the body will include a magnet for those that want to use flat top 18650's!


----------



## dansciurus

But..but..but... the longer you don't sell new ones the cooler I become haha.
JKJK, ill never sell it anyhow haha. Love my fury with it. 
Just a little hint though. The one I have, was just a tad under bore for the new panasonic 3400's. Didn't check the bore or anything, but it wouldn't fit. 
Not a big deal, I just took a drill and some sandpaper and made it fit  
Might want to make them a bit wider, as batteries just keep growing in size ha.


----------



## AZPops

Nah this post was too stupid! .... :laughing:


----------



## precisionworks

dansciurus said:


> If you heat the flashlight up, the red loctite gives loose. It still takes some muscle, but it makes it easier to break it by like 100%.
> I read on here that you can set it on top of a toaster, and let it get pretty warm. All I did was do a runtime test with an AW17670. Just left it on the table to see what it would read at. Picked it up and it was warm to the touch but not hot enough to hold it. I gave her a twist, and it popped right apart. Give it a try.


Sometimes that works ...

The Fury in my tool bag runs 2xCR123 as no amount of heat or torque will loosen the head. A pair of hard maple blocks were bored to exactly fit the body. The body & blocks went into the biggest vise in the shop & the XXL Rigid strap wrench was positioned on the head - it did not budge with around 70 lb/ft torque so a 48" cheated bar was slipped over the strap wrench handle. When 200 lb/ft produced no result the thread joint area was warmed to 300*F (verified by IR temp gun). Back to 200 lb/ft expecting something to move.

Which is why it still runs 2xCR123


----------



## Greenbean

precisionworks said:


> Sometimes that works ...
> 
> The Fury in my tool bag runs 2xCR123 as no amount of heat or torque will loosen the head. A pair of hard maple blocks were bored to exactly fit the body. The body & blocks went into the biggest vise in the shop & the XXL Rigid strap wrench was positioned on the head - it did not budge with around 70 lb/ft torque so a 48" cheated bar was slipped over the strap wrench handle. When 200 lb/ft produced no result the thread joint area was warmed to 300*F (verified by IR temp gun). Back to 200 lb/ft expecting something to move.
> 
> Which is why it still runs 2xCR123



*WOW! 

You gave it the whole nine yards! 

A for effort man, *


----------



## AZPops

ronac said:


> Yours is still one of a kind. A raw aluminum prototype!
> 
> I probably forgot to mention earlier but orders for the body will include a magnet for those that want to use flat top 18650's!




So, are we shooting for some pre-orders? If so, I'M IN, then shoot me a PM!


----------



## Toohotruk

precisionworks said:


> Sometimes that works ...
> 
> The Fury in my tool bag runs 2xCR123 as no amount of heat or torque will loosen the head. A pair of hard maple blocks were bored to exactly fit the body. The body & blocks went into the biggest vise in the shop & the XXL Rigid strap wrench was positioned on the head - it did not budge with around 70 lb/ft torque so a 48" cheated bar was slipped over the strap wrench handle. When 200 lb/ft produced no result the thread joint area was warmed to 300*F (verified by IR temp gun). Back to 200 lb/ft expecting something to move.
> 
> Which is why it still runs 2xCR123



WOW! I wonder what they used to seal that head on? Industrial adhesive of some kind? Has to be more than just Locktite.


----------



## GotDogs

Mine literally just arrived via UPS. This is a nice, REALLY nice light. Form and function. I did immediately attempt to remove the head and there was no issues. I will say that the RED Loctite was still ? not dry, uncured I dunno as it is still tacky with a strong adhesive smell. I got the dual mode version and this thing is just sweet. I think I did ok on price as well 108.00 shipped with the 2 batteries that come with the light and an additional blister pack of 2 Surefire batteries. I hope everyone enjoys theirs as I will mine.


----------



## Greenbean

GotDogs said:


> Mine literally just arrived via UPS. This is a nice, REALLY nice light. Form and function. I did immediately attempt to remove the head and there was no issues. I will say that the RED Loctite was still ? not dry, uncured I dunno as it is still tacky with a strong adhesive smell. I got the dual mode version and this thing is just sweet. I think I did ok on price as well 108.00 shipped with the 2 batteries that come with the light and an additional blister pack of 2 Surefire batteries. I hope everyone enjoys theirs as I will mine.



*Congrats, ** 

count yourself blessed it came apart, later this afternoon I am taking a heat gun to mine and brought strap wrenches into work also, 

I really hope I can remove the head!!!!
*


----------



## GotDogs

I hope that strap wrenching works. Good luck and keep us posted.


----------



## sidecross

Greenbean said:


> *Congrats, **
> 
> count yourself blessed it came apart, later this afternoon I am taking a heat gun to mine and brought strap wrenches into work also,
> 
> I really hope I can remove the head!!!!
> *




I gave up on mine and will just use Surefire batteries.

This is a great light, but mine is used as a backup which I know will not fail.

I also keep many Surefire 123 batteries as back up to my 18650’s in case of no power for an extended period of time.


----------



## Greenbean

*I run it now with my 17670 AW cell, 

But I would love to get it apart.....*


----------



## JohnnyBravo

Greenbean, I really like the idea of rechargeables. But I'm skeptical about running my Fury on 3.7 -4.2 volts when SF designed it for 6.0 + volts. What kind of real world usage/performance are you seeing w/ it? Thanks...


Greenbean said:


> *I run it now with my 17670 AW cell,
> 
> But I would love to get it apart.....*


----------



## Greenbean

JohnnyBravo said:


> Greenbean, I really like the idea of rechargeables. But I'm skeptical about running my Fury on 3.7 -4.2 volts when SF designed it for 6.0 + volts. What kind of real world usage/performance are you seeing w/ it? Thanks...



*I run the 17670 from the info gathered here, starting at post 69 and read on... 
this is from post #75

Which indicates that the Fury driver maintains a constant 1770 mA draw with either power source - no matter if it's as high as 6.3 volts or as low as 2.8 volts the driver keeps the voltage seen at the emitter constant & the current stays constant.


I have not run any run time data... I have plenty of 17670 cells around...
*
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...anium-lights&p=4145849&viewfull=1#post4145849


----------



## JohnnyBravo

Thanks GB, for the quick post/thread info. So it sounds like an AW 17670 at 1600 mah may just power the Fury a touch longer than SF's RCR123 LFP cells...


----------



## Greenbean

*Sure thing, 
*


----------



## dansciurus

So, how did your strap wrenches and the heat gun go? Get 'er off?


----------



## Greenbean

dansciurus said:


> So, how did your strap wrenches and the heat gun go? Get 'er off?



*Nothing! This puppy is on there, 
It's not that big of a deal as it works just fine for me on 17670s, but I do have a toaster and might run it on high for an hour or so and just see if the heat cycling does anything, I also think my strap wrenches are weak, Harbor Freight lol...they slip bad, *


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

Had a short trip within the U.S. recently and tossed a Fury in my bag at the last minute. I had a couple of other lights, have to carry at least one on the job for legal reasons. I had an overnight stay in a nice business class hotel in a suburban setting.

Got to the hotel later than planned with an early departure scheduled the next morning. There was a boisterous group of young people in the next room loudly conversing in profane urban dialect. I surmised that it may have been a school sports team letting off steam after a game of some sort.

I put in some earplugs and went to bed. Since sunrise was near my wakeup time, I left just the thin curtain drawn over the sliding glass door to the balcony to give me a visual cue in case I didn't hear the alarm with the earplugs. I dozed off after midnight only to see a flickering light coming though the thin curtain. Someone was on the balcony with a penlight trying to look inside my room. I keep a Fenix E01 AAA flashlight next to the bed in a hotel, it has one mode and is easy to find in the dark, unlike the 'designer' hotel light switches. Unfortunately, I had left the SF Fury in a backpack sitting on the couch.

I used the Fenix to navigate to my backpack to retrieve the Fury. The intruder was pressed against the glass with the penlight trying to see what was in the room on the other side of the curtain.

I stayed to the side of the window in the darkened room, put the Fury in front of the curtain in the 'suspect's face and double clicked it to full 500 lumen brightness. He was obviously totally surprised, let out a couple of somewhat predictable imprecations and stumbled back out of view in the darkness.

Apparently my room and the one next door had a common balcony, there was even a decal warning I found on the glass the next morning. Perhaps one of the kids was working as an apprentice burglar in case the NBA draft didn't go well. Or maybe he was drunk and just curious.

I didn't pursue the matter further, got a little sleep and left the next morning. Two things I should have done (oh, _Treppenwitz )_, kept the Fury next to the bed (even though it rolls off the nightstand every time) and had a camera to get a mug shot of the perp when I illuminated him.


----------



## Greenbean

* Awesome story, 

Thanks for sharing.... 

Loved it!

Next time keep a 
"Scary Mask" in your luggage, perp would have crapped his pants!!!*


----------



## Robin24k

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> I stayed to the side of the window in the darkened room, put the Fury in front of the curtain in the 'suspect's face and double clicked it to full 500 lumen brightness.


Glad you had some fun with him.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

I still am not sure what the kid was up to. He may have thought some of his teammates were in the room and wanted to play a prank. Whatever, the light defused the situation and in the future, I'll keep a Fury or comparable bright light within reach when I sleep even if I use the Fenix E01 to get up at night. Actually my favorite bedside light is one of Henry's Rotary's but I don't want to risk leaving it behind in a hotel room so I leave it at home (with the other half dozen or so lights on my nightstand).

Drunk kids and balconies can be a tragic mix as towns like Daytona Beach find out each year. 

Ironically, the switch on the Fury had come apart just before the trip and I almost didn't take it since I would be working in daylight according to the original schedule. The metal collar inside the Fury switch somehow got dislodged and the light wouldn't turn on. I know from earlier experience (on L2's and the 6PX lights) that SF will send me tailcaps on request if I have a problem. I carefully reseated the metal collar and switch operation seemed normal so I took the light. And the switch did work when I needed it. :thumbsup:


----------



## Toohotruk

So, have you ever dropped the light on it's tailcap or anything? Was there any warning the tailcap had a problem, or did it just fail on you out of the blue? I'm just curious about the tailcap issue. I haven't had a second's trouble with mine (so far) and it has seen a fair amount of use...it's become my favorite 2 X 123 (1 X 17670) light and I have a LOT of $100+ 2 X 123 lights.

I'm glad nothing happened to you or your belongings in that situation...you just never know these days. :shakehead


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

Toohotruk said:


> So, have you ever dropped the light on it's tailcap or anything? Was there any warning the tailcap had a problem, or did it just fail on you out of the blue? I'm just curious about the tailcap issue. I haven't had a second's trouble with mine (so far) and it has seen a fair amount of use...it's become my favorite 2 X 123 (1 X 17670) light and I have a LOT of $100+ 2 X 123 lights.
> 
> I'm glad nothing happened to you or your belongings in that situation...you just never know these days. :shakehead



Good question about how the tailcap came apart. Like you I've had good luck with the Fury tailcap after some trouble a couple of years ago with early 6PX tailcap switches.

I'm thinking that the light probably rolled off a table with no battery in it while the 17670 was in the charger. The Fury drop tests itself so regularly that I don't even notice anymore. I should get one of those $30 clips I suppose but I never seem to get around to it.

The little silver colored collar in the switch mechanism probably fell off and got tilted or turned sideways, when I put the battery back in, the light wouldn't turn on. I then noticed that the cap was not screwed down as far as normal but seemed to be tight. The metal collar fell out when I tapped the tailcap, I reseated it and all was well.

I've traveled internationally for years both as a civilian and in the military. Sadly, I'm safer walking the streets of Singapore, Paris, Dubai or Shanghai at 3 am than I am in almost any U.S. town. And yes, I often walk to 7-11 or Lawson's at odd hours of the night to get a snack or beverage since I am wide awake due to the time zone change. Singapore quits selling beer at 3 am  (but they start again at 6 am :thumbsup.

I've had an LED light lifted from a checked bag with a TSA note (hope they are enjoying using it) and I'm always thinking some local security rule might cause me to lose a light in hand carried luggage. I can easily replace the Fury if I lose it and it is a lot of bang for those rare occasions when I need the full brightness on the road. At home it is great for spotting wildlife in the back forty.

I'm not too worried about my belongings on the road but an intruder with unknown intent is certainly a serious personal safety concern. I was tired and more annoyed than scared when I decided to confront the dim incan penlight with a SF Fury. I suspect that the kid was up to no good since the crew had earlier opened their half of the double door joining our rooms and seemed to be trying to use a plastic room key to jimmy the lock on my side for entertainment. I don't think they knew I was in the room (until that 500 lumen flashlight suddenly came on :huh.


----------



## pjandyho

Hi Vox Clamatis,

Glad nothing serious has happened to you and that you are safe.

Didn't know you previously had your fun in Singapore too or I would have loved to meet up with you. Since you came here before, I am sure you understand why most of us Singaporean flashaholics don't really place defense as a number one criteria when purchasing a flashlight. The streets here are just too safe. Hope you enjoyed your stay when you were around.


----------



## ronac

The 18650 P2X bodies are finally finished!

Have a look at it with the Standoff tailcap! It definitely won't roll of the night stand anymore.


----------



## Greenbean

*Looking great!!!!!!

I may have to sell my current Fury and get another because it will NOT come apart!!!!!

*


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

pjandyho said:


> Didn't know you previously had your fun in Singapore too or I would have loved to meet up with you. Since you came here before, I am sure you understand why most of us Singaporean flashaholics don't really place defense as a number one criteria when purchasing a flashlight. The streets here are just too safe. Hope you enjoyed your stay when you were around.



I've been to Singapore many times over the years, it is indeed a safe, terrific town. I'll PM you here if it looks like I'm headed that way again.



ronac said:


> Have a look at it with the Standoff tailcap! It definitely won't roll of the night stand anymore.



I'll definitely have to check out the tailcap, I have the early Fury that probably won't unscrew at the head without heroic measures.


----------



## benthiccracker

Greenbean said:


> *I run it now with my 17670 AW cell,
> 
> But I would love to get it apart.....*



You can get it apart use a torch and warm up the part you want to take off. You are limited to the whole head and probably the bezel ring. I have taken off the whole head of a Fury just using a towel and my hands. No heat or tools besides the towel  now why I came here, I am torn, should I sell it or keep it? Also does anyone know if a OR mcClicky kit will fit in these tail caps?


----------



## AZPops

ronac said:


> The 18650 P2X bodies are finally finished!
> 
> Have a look at it with the Standoff tailcap! It definitely won't roll of the night stand anymore.




I'm at a loss. How do I buy the 18650 body? I'm ready!

Thanks!


----------



## benthiccracker

I know Barry bores them if that's what you mean.


----------



## AZPops

benthiccracker said:


> I know Barry bores them if that's what you mean.




Thanks but when ronac received his 18650 bodies from being coated, he would list them for sale. Not sure where though, either in CPFMP or in the Custom Sales boards. I don't see a listing or info in his Twitter page.


----------



## benthiccracker

AZPops said:


> I'm at a loss. How do I buy the 18650 body? I'm ready!
> 
> Thanks!


So Ron is actually producing 18mm bodies that work with the new SureFire heads? Cool!


----------



## AZPops

benthiccracker said:


> So Ron is actually producing 18mm bodies that work with the new SureFire heads? Cool!




Yeah, go back to post #1023! Cool stuff! I've been running my Fury's on AW17670's, but it would be nice to have the 18650 body as well!


----------



## Greenbean

benthiccracker said:


> I am torn, should I sell it or keep it? Also does anyone know if a OR mcClicky kit will fit,



*I would keep it.....

But you ask if it can take a McClicky? Is it not a clicky already, I guess the Fury 2-stage has to be as the PCB is in the head....*


----------



## benthiccracker

Greenbean said:


> *I would keep it.....
> 
> But you ask if it can take a McClicky? Is it not a clicky already, I guess the Fury 2-stage has to be as the PCB is in the head....*


Actually the Fury Combatlight is not a clicky it's a momentary plus twist for constant. I am selling it plus two standard Fury in the Marketplace if anyone is interested.


----------



## precisionworks

benthiccracker said:


> ... Fury in the Marketplace if anyone is interested.


 I am always interested in a Fury or three 

The early Fury's had a lot of red loctite in the head-body joint but even the latest ones come pretty tightly assembled. This is an EAG-BCM tactical http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Sure...Single-Output-LED-p/sf-p2x-a-bk-eag-click.htm (high only, clicky switch) and it would not yield to hand pressure alone. Light went into bored blocks, that went into big vise & head was gripped with strap wrench. Came off with just an easy pull on the wrench handle:







Close examination of the internal threads shows a line of red loctite:






An almost identical setup was used on an early Fury & it has yet to budge ... even with a cheater bar that's way too long.



Barry Milton
Precision-Gunsmithing.com
iPhone5 voice recognition


----------



## Risky

I guess no one has the EAG version of the Surefire Fury?
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Sure...Single-Output-LED-p/sf-p2x-a-bk-eag-click.htm

I didn't want to deal with this twist to keep on BS so I discovered that these were being modified for bravo company with McClickeys. (I think they are, they sure feel like it)

Out of all my lights, this is my most favorite.


----------



## Greenbean

*So would you attempt to break mine free if I sent it in to be bored...

Pretty Please....*


----------



## precisionworks

Risky said:


> I guess no one has the EAG version of the Surefire Fury?
> http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Sure...Single-Output-LED-p/sf-p2x-a-bk-eag-click.htm


I don't own one but I've bored & grooved quite a few, primarily for LEO-MIL-FF-EMT. Those users have zero need for a two stage light & the EAG-BCM model exactly fills their need. 



> ... I discovered that these were being modified for Bravo Company with McClickeys.


AFAIK there are two features that make the EAG-BCM Fury unique. First is the elimination of the low output level so the light always comes on at 500L (same as the Defender & CombatLight). Second is the Surefire clicky switch instead of the twisty that comes on the CombatLight. It is essentially a Defender without the DNA-collecting pocket ripping strike bezel. The fact that only BCM distributes the EAG-Fury pretty much defines the target market - BCM is one of the most highly regarded makers of weapons & gear for warfighters. The light has been very well received by this group of users. 

Is the EAG-BCM switch a McClicky? I don't believe so because Don's switch would drive up the price of the light by another $15 or so.



Greenbean said:


> *So would you attempt to break mine free if I sent it in to be bored...
> 
> Pretty Please....*


Please don't send in any Fury or 6PX with the head attached. I have no issue loosening the head on the EAG-BCM because these are current production lights with no more than a small amount of thread locker. They are shipped directly from BCM to my shop & that's the only reason that I agree to remove the head.

If you're unable to unscrew the head there's no reason to think that I can. Please send body only, no head, no tail, no O-rings


----------



## Aperture

With the option of buying a new body from Ronac I had to give it a try myself to open up the Fury. I got myself a long metal rod, sandpaper, some duct tape to adjust the rod to the desired diameter and started sanding out the Fury body with a power drill while sitting in front of the telly. As the battery life of my drill is only an hour or two it took me three sittings to finish the job but now I can use it with Eagletac 3400 batteries so it was totally worth the 6 hours or so spend on this little project.


----------



## JohnnyBravo

WOW. Perseverance prevails!!!


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

Aperture said:


>



Did something happen to your tailcap threads? They look somewhat worn to me.


----------



## Aperture

Nahh, they're just very very dirty with grease and aluminium dust.


----------



## Risky

When the hell is the P3X coming out? Also, does anyone know exactly what LED is used in the Surefire Fury? It doesn't even say on their website.


----------



## Greenbean

*My Fury has the Cree XM-L, 

I have no clue when the P3X will be out, I thought during one of the SHOT show videos when we see the output go to 600+ Lumens as with the Peacemaker coming out they will have the XM-L2. *


----------



## HistoryChannel

Surefire says April or May release for the 600 Lumen Fury and 700 Lumen PR1 Peacekeeper. Don't know about the P3X, hopefully the same timeline.


----------



## pjandyho

Risky said:


> When the hell is the P3X coming out? Also, does anyone know exactly what LED is used in the Surefire Fury? It doesn't even say on their website.


I don't mean to point fingers at you. I am just asking out of curiosity. Does it really matter what emitter is being used in a Surefire product? All I know is that Surefire don't really release such info and prefer to just state lumen numbers instead. With Surefire, I just buy the product based on their claims and I don't bother what emitter is being used and it has been pretty easy for me. This way I don't have the nagging feeling that I am purchasing something that is obsolete. I just use it and enjoy it.


----------



## RPC

Received my Fury a few days ago and tested it out yesterday. First impressions:
-500 lumen is brighter than I anticipated!
-The output has a noticeable green tinge to it

Can someone help me understand the green color?


----------



## cland72

pjandyho said:


> I don't mean to point fingers at you. I am just asking out of curiosity. Does it really matter what emitter is being used in a Surefire product? All I know is that Surefire don't really release such info and prefer to just state lumen numbers instead. With Surefire, I just buy the product based on their claims and I don't bother what emitter is being used and it has been pretty easy for me. This way I don't have the nagging feeling that I am purchasing something that is obsolete. I just use it and enjoy it.



Very well stated. If a person is someone who is primarily concerned about the usability and reliability of the light, then the specifics of the light shouldn't matter too much. I can see people wondering about the tint and profile of the beam, but other than that, it's just driving yourself mad for no reason.


----------



## Greenbean

*Mine took a nasty spill onto the road while moving, stupid butterfingers me, glass shattered bad, left shards in the reflector too, 

Shipped it back to Surefire, I really hope they just replace the lens as the tint on the XM-L was great, 

*


----------



## Toohotruk

You'll have to post an update when you get it back...I'm sure they'll take care of you though.


----------



## Greenbean

Toohotruk said:


> You'll have to post an update when you get it back...I'm sure they'll take care of you though.



*I will, wondering how long it may take, 

Not that I have "other" lights to get me by, Lol...*


----------



## dansciurus

Greenbean said:


> *I will, wondering how long it may take,
> 
> Not that I have "other" lights to get me by, Lol...*


Hey, if I was you, I would be hopin for a brand new light 
Maybe you will get one with less loctite


----------



## Greenbean

dansciurus said:


> Hey, if I was you, I would be hopin for a brand new light
> Maybe you will get one with less loctite



*Lol... True, I forgot about that, guess we'll see...*


----------



## MightySanta

For those of you looking for a Fury, I bought mine for $99 during launch at "I need more gear"

I would have sold mine to one of you for $60-$70, but now that I know you can have them milled to fit an 18650, I don't think so 

In the mean time I have an Olight M22 Warrior on the way with several Eagletac 3400mah 18650 batteries. I'm really looking forward to being able to use my light as much as I want to without fear of battery cost.


----------



## Risky

I just put a 17670 in my Fury Tactical Eag edition and it runs perfect. So glad I don't have to keep buying c123 primaries.


----------



## HistoryChannel

Greenbean said:


> *Lol... True, I forgot about that, guess we'll see...*



Yeah, maybe you will get the new 600lm version!


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

Rik600 said:


> Hello,
> My fury broke down today.
> It fell off a table and went off...
> Best regards, hendrik





Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> My number one wish would be to make the Fury less prone to roll off a table or nightstand. Every time mine drop tests itself onto my wife's tile kitchen floor I realize how the light got its name. :devil:





precisionworks said:


> The titanium clip made by Jason (Dark Sucks) is a perfect fit for the Fury & other lights with the same dimension at the tailcap end.



I finally got one of Jason's Ti clips for my Fury. It definitely solves the rolling problem. :thumbsup:


----------



## BenChiew

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> I finally got one of Jason's Ti clips for my Fury. It definitely solves the rolling problem. :thumbsup:



Can you oblige me a picture? Does the ring spin around? Do you need to use the oring to hold it in place?


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

Benchiew said:


> Can you oblige me a picture? Does the ring spin around? Do you need to use the oring to hold it in place?



There are good pictures of the Ti clip on the darksucks.com website. The clip does not spin, it does need the o-ring to eliminate a gap with the SF tail cap tightened to the body.

I got the flame colored clip, it looks like the skin of a spacecraft that has reentered the atmosphere at high temperature.


----------



## BenChiew

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> There are good pictures of the Ti clip on the darksucks.com website. The clip does not spin, it does need the o-ring to eliminate a gap with the SF tail cap tightened to the body.
> 
> I got the flame colored clip, it looks like the skin of a spacecraft that has reentered the atmosphere at high temperature.



Thanks Vox. I have seen the clip but just wanted to see how it settles in with the body. I recently saw an image of it on the flat side of an Elzetta body and that looks really good.


----------



## BenChiew

Will the 6px body fit a fury head?
I got a 6px pro that I can remove the bezel.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

I just bought another SF Fury from a high volume online U.S. retailer to give to a family member. I left the light in the blister pack but it appears that the emitter is still an XM-L, not an XM-L2.

As I and others have speculated, perhaps an upcoming XM-L2 emitter upgrade would account for the higher than 500 lumen output numbers in some of the product literature for new Fury variants.


----------



## Greenbean

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> I just bought another SF Fury from a high volume online U.S. retailer to give to a family member. I left the light in the blister pack but it appears that the emitter is still an XP-G, not an XP-G2.
> 
> As I and others have speculated, perhaps an upcoming XP-G2 emitter upgrade would account for the higher than 500 lumen output numbers in some of the product literature for new Fury variants.



*AN XP-G? My Fury has an XM-L....

This is intriguing...*


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

Greenbean said:


> *AN XP-G? My Fury has an XM-L....
> 
> This is intriguing...*



Thanks for catching that, I'm crossing too many timezones looking at too many lights. I meant the XM-L versus the XM-L2. I'll edit the original post.


----------



## Greenbean

*No sweat, you had me really thinking, Lol....

*


----------



## Dave D

Surefire P2X Fury in the ESP Duty Holster LHU-14-37


----------



## tobrien

Dave D said:


> Surefire P2X Fury in the ESP Duty Holster LHU-14-37



that looks *good*!! is it easy to remove and insert?


----------



## Dave D

tobrien said:


> that looks *good*!! is it easy to remove and insert?



Yes, it has a metal lever each side of the flashlight, which in the picture is horizontal, that locks the flashlight in the holster, if you push them downwards then you can pull the flashlight out, the flashlight is held quiet firmly even when unlocked and it could probably be left unlocked during duty use.

There is a metal slide, seen at the top of the belt slot, which can be moved to adjust to the width of the belt it is fitted to, for a full size duty belt (2 1/4") then the slide will need to be removed all together (one screw).

A nice feature is that the holster swivels as well so it can be positioned for more comfort when sitting and as the base of the holster is open it can be swiveled towards a target/Suspect and the flashlight switched on leaving you with both hand free and your target/Suspect illuminated.


----------



## Greenbean

That is way cool, 

Gotta look into one of these,


----------



## Toohotruk

That does look cool! oo:


----------



## AZPops

Dave D said:


> Surefire P2X Fury in the ESP Duty Holster LHU-14-37




Thanks for the photo Dave! I've been looking at this Brite Strike Holster for a while now. Anyways, your photo sold me on it, so I placed my order for one a few minutes ago! ... :thumbsup:


----------



## tobrien

AZPops said:


> Thanks for the photo Dave! I've been looking at this Brite Strike Holster for a while now. Anyways, your photo sold me on it, so I placed my order for one a few minutes ago! ... :thumbsup:



Dave D Man!


----------



## AZPops

tobrien said:


> Dave D Man!



Dave D dah UK Man!


----------



## Dave D

AZPops said:


> Dave D dah UK Man!



LOL :wave:


----------



## sboonjue

AZPops said:


> Thanks for the photo Dave! I've been looking at this Brite Strike Holster for a while now. Anyways, your photo sold me on it, so I placed my order for one a few minutes ago! ... :thumbsup:



Convinced me! I had a nite ize holster but its kind of difficult to holster and also you can only holster bezel up, with the brite holster it seems alot easier! Only concern is the overall profile? Is it slim or bulky?


----------



## AZPops

sboonjue said:


> Convinced me! I had a nite ize holster but its kind of difficult to holster and also you can only holster bezel up, with the brite holster it seems alot easier! Only concern is the overall profile? Is it slim or bulky?




I'm presently waiting for my shipping conformation from OpticsPlanet! I have a brand new nite-ize holster that I haven't used, and don't think I will.


----------



## Dave D

sboonjue said:


> Convinced me! I had a nite ize holster but its kind of difficult to holster and also you can only holster bezel up, with the brite holster it seems alot easier! Only concern is the overall profile? Is it slim or bulky?



The ESP Holster sticks out from my duty belt about the same as my baton holder. It certainly has enough room for me to access the P2X when wearing body armour.

I'll try and post some pictures over the weekend.


----------



## fresh eddie fresh

My Fury was serving back-up duty in a bag of mine but last night I got bored and did a side-by-side shoot out with my M91 in a 9P and EDC triple (cool) in a C2. The EDC triple on high was about the same as the M91... very floody and lit up a whole area about 60-70 feet out. The Fury blasted much further than that, but still had a really nice, wide beam. I forgot how nice it was! Sort of like a Mini-Hound Dog. I really like how low the low is, too. 

So my Stratum went into the bag and the Fury is now ready for action once again!


----------



## Greenbean

*That's awesome, 

Yeah I forget how much I like the Fury, They replaced the one that had the shattered glass on, but the new one only worked for one day and then NO DICE, 
tried different cells and a different tail, even tried shorting out the battery to the wall of the body as instructed to by Surefire HELP, 

So they gave me an RMA and I sent it back, 

My second favorite Surefire is mt G3, but it has a McClicky with a GITD boot, and an M31NL in a Matte black Z44, *


----------



## AZPops

Benchiew said:


> Thanks Vox. I have seen the clip but just wanted to see how it settles in with the body. I recently saw an image of it on the flat side of an Elzetta body and that looks really good.




Pops is busy, so he told me I could take a couple of pitchers for you. I used the GITD o-ring so you can see where the thing goes on the light.















Anonymous Jr.


----------



## Dave D

Picture below shows Surefire Fury/ESP holster when worn with covert body armour.






Below picture shows SurefireFury/ESP holster when worn with a Tactical (Overt) vest.






IMHO the ESP holster definitely too bulky for Off Duty carry.


----------



## AZPops

I guess, but either way it still looks like an extremely functional holster. Glad I ordered one!

Pops


PS Did you acquire your "00" status yet? If you did, I sure the heck ain't barking at you! ..... oo:












Anonymous Jr.


----------



## Greenbean

How is the light released, does the tab need to be pressed down or are the sides holding the light in spring loaded, 

I know there is a lock on it, 

All the videos I can find on YouTube are in another language, and their aren't many.

Thanks


----------



## Dave D

Greenbean said:


> How is the light released, does the tab need to be pressed down or are the sides holding the light in spring loaded,
> 
> I know there is a lock on it,
> 
> All the videos I can find on YouTube are in another language, and their aren't many.
> 
> Thanks



The lugs either side of the flashlight body are sprung loaded, and there are rollers on the leading edge. I have still been able to pull the flashlight out with the levers in the locked position but I don't think there is much chance of it falling out when chasing an offender etc even when the lever are in the unlocked position.

The whole thing seems to have had a lot of thought put into it and it is well engineered. Considering how much some manufacturers charge for much simpler holders I think the price is very good.

A definite thumbs up for duty use :thumbsup:


----------



## Dave D

AZPops said:


> PS Did you acquire your "00" status yet? If you did, I sure the heck ain't barking at you! ..... oo:



Closer to "Retired" Status, only 26 more day shifts and 32 more night shifts left, then I will have completed 30 years service. :wave:


----------



## AZPops

Dave D said:


> Closer to "Retired" Status, only 26 more day shifts and 32 more night shifts left, then I will have completed 30 years service. :wave:



Congrats on the 30 years of service Dave!

Lance and Calvin aka Anonymous Jr.


----------



## Greenbean

Dave D said:


> Closer to "Retired" Status, only 26 more day shifts and 32 more night shifts left, then I will have completed 30 years service. :wave:



I appreciate your info about the holster, it's so much better to get a REAL WORLD recommendation from an actual user, than a kid on YouTube that doesn't know any better, 

And I hope you are blessed in your latter years after that long service!


----------



## Up All Night

Any word on a thread for ronac's 18650 bodies?......Cuz I can't find one!
The standoff tail looks great as well.


----------



## fresh eddie fresh

Greenbean said:


> *That's awesome,
> 
> Yeah I forget how much I like the Fury, They replaced the one that had the shattered glass on, but the new one only worked for one day and then NO DICE,
> tried different cells and a different tail, even tried shorting out the battery to the wall of the body as instructed to by Surefire HELP,
> 
> So they gave me an RMA and I sent it back,
> 
> My second favorite Surefire is mt G3, but it has a McClicky with a GITD boot, and an M31NL in a Matte black Z44, *



I hope they get your Fury situation taken care of soon! 

I have a similar setup... M31NL in a Surefire D3 with a clicky weaponlight tailcap and an Oveready AA sleeve. Awesome light!


----------



## pjandyho

I first bought a Fury months back and love the tint and beam of it. Mine is real white on high and the hotspot transitions smoothly to the side spill. Thinking that since the Fury series should all share the same reflector and LED, I went ahead and bought the P2ZX Fury Combatlight and was I a little disappointed. The Combatlight version which I had has a slight greenish tint and the transition from hotspot to side spill is rather distinct, short of being abrupt. Checking the reflector, the Combatlight version has a smoother surface than the Fury. I may just be a little nitpicky here but I really expected the beam profile to be the same as my first Fury.


----------



## Eric242

A few quick & dirty shots of my Fury with an Oveready delrin tailcap shroud & ss clip installed. The shroud is for the Z41 but works on the fury very well. That position of the clip suits me much better than a clip attached between body and tailcap (especially when the batteries have to be changed).












Eric


----------



## Greenbean

That looks really good on there! 

Good modification!


----------



## precisionworks

Eric242 said:


> ... my Fury with an Oveready delrin tailcap shroud & ss clip installed. The shroud is for the Z41 but works on the fury very well.


Eric, nice mod & a great way to get the light into a deep carry position. I just looked all over Dan's site & could not find those items - would you post a link?


----------



## Greenbean

Gotta love "deep pocket carry" I switched the clip on my E2d the other day to the 2 way clip from a Lumamax and love it,


----------



## AZPops

precisionworks said:


> Eric, nice mod & a great way to get the light into a deep carry position. I just looked all over Dan's site & could not find those items - would you post a link?




Looks like a Malkoff shroud and clip.


----------



## BIGLOU

Eric that is a nice set up looks good on the Fury TC, I have one of those Delrin Shrouded Clips on a Z59. These are made for the Z44s and Z59s as well as the Malkoff MD series lights too. I don't know the difference between them maybe Electronguru can chime in, but here is a link to Lighthounds website: http://www.lighthound.com/Oveready-...sh-with-Clip-for-SureFire-Z59-etc_p_3563.html


----------



## Eric242

AZPops said:


> Looks like a Malkoff shroud and clip.





Eric242 said:


> ...my Fury with an Oveready delrin tailcap shroud & ss clip installed. The shroud is for the Z41...





precisionworks said:


> I just looked all over Dan's site & could not find those items - would you post a link?


Unfortunatelly they are not available anymore at oveready for a long time now. But iirc Dan mentioned they would do another run since there seems to be enough demand. Lighthound seems to be the only source right now. Although they have the glossy one while the one on my Fury it the matte shroud.

EDIT: And as I just followed BIGLOU´s link I realized they are out of stock too.

Eric


----------



## sboonjue

Anyone have an idea on how to get the boot of the Fury? Im trying to replace the boot with a green gitd I got. Would it be possible to just cut the boot out and slip in the new one? I've heard of banging the center with a center punch, but it sounds sooo invasive and I just got the Fury a week ago! Any pics would be appreciated! thanks!


----------



## ronac

My 18650 Fury body is finally finished!


----------



## dansciurus

ronac said:


> My 18650 Fury body is finally finished!



WOW!!! Looks great with the anno all done up. 

It burns when I Tapatalk...


----------



## the badger

Hey everybody, sorry if I missed this, but what happened to the "600 Lumen" Fury model?


----------



## dansciurus

the badger said:


> Hey everybody, sorry if I missed this, but what happened to the "600 Lumen" Fury model?



Hasn't been released from SF as of yet. 

It burns when I Tapatalk...


----------



## Dave D

I wanted to have my SureFire P2X Fury bored so I could use the 18650 rechargeable batteries but I couldn't wait the months that it takes for those that offer the service to get enough customers together to make it worth their while.

I searched CPF and youtube and discovered that a member had bored a 6P using sand paper taped to a bar in a power drill.

I did the same, it took me an evening (which was longer than I expected) starting with 60 grade paper, it would have be quicker starting with 40 grade. I finished it off when the bore was large enough to accept my Nitecore 3100mAh battery with 400 and then 1200 grade Wet 'n' Dry paper, with a bit of washing up liquid in the water, to achieve a polished finish.










A by-product was that when dismantling the P2X I managed to remove the PCB so I thought that it was best to take some pictures!








It appears to be coated with a clear epoxy type product.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

Dave D said:


> A by-product was that when dismantling the P2X I managed to remove the PCB so I thought that it was best to take some pictures!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be coated with a clear epoxy type product.



Thanks for the photos, it looks a lot simpler than the circuitry in my early version (serial number less than 1000) EB1. The EB1 has at least three sides of two circuit boards populated with components to support a Microchip Technology F24K22 microcontroller. Also, the EB1 boards are not potted with the clear epoxy like the board in your P2X.


----------



## sboonjue

sboonjue said:


> Anyone have an idea on how to get the boot of the Fury? Im trying to replace the boot with a green gitd I got. Would it be possible to just cut the boot out and slip in the new one? I've heard of banging the center with a center punch, but it sounds sooo invasive and I just got the Fury a week ago! Any pics would be appreciated! thanks!



So far only option im seeing is using a punch? Would that destroy the stock clicky?


----------



## dansciurus

sboonjue said:


> So far only option im seeing is using a punch? Would that destroy the stock clicky?



It will unscrew from the inside of the tail cap. Just the same way as you install a mcclicky on a solar force or old 6p. Look past the spring and you can see three holes in a triple formation. You stick something like a ring pliers in the holes and unthread the entire switch from the tail cap. Then you can switch boots,install a fet tie or mccliky, or whatever else you want to do. Don't use a punch! Just search on how to install a Mc clicky switch. I am sure there is a tutorial or something on YouTube. I can try to take a picture tomorrow when I get off my shift. 
[http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/ygy5eqer.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/y5ysazyb.jpg
The lighter grey part of the actual tail cap is the threads. Its pretty straightforward once ya take a peak. Just make sure to twist it the right way. And be gentle. Looks to be a lefty loosy righty tighty thread but don't mark my words. My threads are greasy and its hard for me to see right now.
It actually uses the same threads that the body uses for the tail cap. It is just threaded into the end of the cap. Use tweasers or something small to grip the small three divots and unthread the whole switch from the cap. When you reninstall make sure to not over tighten it, bcause the three copper wings are what touch the body when you put it all back together. If you over tighten the switch in the tail cap sometimes there can be a gap. If you put it together and it doesn't work, just fiddle with it a bit to get the spacing right. Should only be a matter of quarter turns. There should be a o ring on the boot side of the switch to keep it watertight. I think?  Hope it helps. Keep us posted.

It burns when I Tapatalk...

Your images are oversize, when you post an image please remember Rule #3 

Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels.

*Please resize and repost.* - Thanks Norm


----------



## Dave D

Having only recently bought the Surefire P2X Fury I was a little disappointed about how the flashlight feels when gripping it, the body is shorter on the P2X than the 6P for instance although both are a similar overall length. Because the head on the P2X is bigger it leaves a shorter body and without the knurled finished of the 6P it lacks in the feeling of a positive grip.

So I had a look at the Surefire spare parts that I have and decided to fit the Surefire Z49 tailcap, this gives a longer body and the slightly increased diameter of the tailcap allows a more secure grip. I had to stretch the spring in the Z49 slightly because when I initially fitted it it wouldn't work, I soon realised that the spring wasn't making contact with the battery.

It doesn't interfere with the ESP holster either. 

It's a bit of an ugly duckling but it does the job :thumbsup:


----------



## Dave D

AZPops said:


> Congrats on the 30 years of service Dave!





Greenbean said:


> And I hope you are blessed in your latter years after that long service!



Thanks for the comments, my ambition to get at least 30 years pension out of them!! Although the life expectancy of retired Cops puts the odds against it.


----------



## AZPops

Dave, holster arrived! Great holster! ... :thumbsup: ... Btw, I use couple of o-rings (one med and one large width) on the Fury. Works great!


----------



## Dave D

Glad you like the holster, and good idea with the 'O' rings.



AZPops said:


> Dave, holster arrived! Great holster! ... :thumbsup: ... Btw, I use couple of o-rings (one med and one large width) on the Fury. Works great!


----------



## Toohotruk

Dave D said:


> Thanks for the comments, my ambition to get at least 30 years pension out of them!! Although the life expectancy of retired Cops puts the odds against it.



I hope you get more than 30 years out of them...good healthy years. :thumbsup:


----------



## the badger

the badger said:


> Hey everybody, sorry if I missed this, but what happened to the "600 Lumen" Fury model?





dansciurus said:


> Hasn't been released from SF as of yet.
> 
> It burns when I Tapatalk...



Interesting. I recall checking the website and it stated that the Fury (all models) were "600 Lumens." Now when I check it says 500 lumens again!? Strange.

http://www.surefire.com/p2x-fury-8482.html


----------



## precisionworks

the badger said:


> Interesting. I recall checking the website and it stated that the Fury (all models) were "600 Lumens." Now when I check it says 500 lumens again!? Strange.



Take this FWIW (meaning possibly not much) ... every Fury that I've checked in my shop built sphere runs 600L+ at turn on with fresh batteries (either 2xCR123 or 1x18650). Surefire has always been very conservative in rating their lights.


----------



## the badger

precisionworks said:


> Take this FWIW (meaning possibly not much) ... every Fury that I've checked in my shop built sphere runs 600L+ at turn on with fresh batteries (either 2xCR123 or 1x18650). Surefire has always been very conservative in rating their lights.




Yea, I figure it's a situation similar to the Kroma Milspec. The new ones were listed as "140 lumens" on the website, but now they're listed at 130 Lumens. I think the 600 lumen Fury may never be released.

****I am NOT intending to debate nor do I give a sh*t about a few lumens difference. I'm just making a point about how the SF website changes all the time. I know SF underrate their lights anyways (on that note, I took my X300 Ultra out last night and it was ALMOST as bright as my new Malkoff Neutral Hound Dog. WTF).


----------



## Up All Night

ronac said:


> My 18650 Fury body is finally finished!



PM sent!


----------



## tobrien

do those of you who've gotten your Fury bodies bored out or use Ronac's 18mm body know if the AW 3400 mAh 18650 cells make contact with the head?

PW will be boring my Fury but I know my Fury's head doesn't have a spring or anything at the positive (+) end so I think I need a button top 18650 specifically. I'd love to use a 3400 mAh cell with a steel bottom plate a la AW


----------



## ronac

Magnets are provided with the body to be used for the positive end of flat top batteries.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

ronac said:


> Magnets are provided with the body to be used for the positive end of flat top batteries.



I'll offer a note of caution on using those magnets from my past experience:



Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> I had a bad experience with those little magnets on an unprotected blue label buttonless 18650 a few years ago. I used the magnet in an early model (Lux V with the plastic sleeve removed) Surefire U2 and dropped the light while it was on. I was working on a computer and the light rolled under a table and went dark. I was struggling with a connector or something and didn't crawl on my belly like a reptile immediately to retrieve the U2. I figured it was already off, right? After a minute or so I smelled something and grabbed the light, it was too hot to hold. Somehow the magnet had become dislodged, short circuiting the battery. I got the tailcap off in time to prevent a Boeing 787 style mishap but quit using unprotected Li-ion batteries and those little magnets.
> 
> I've been able to achieve a similar heating effect by plugging a four pin ATX power connector into a motherboard with the wrong orientation. Just like in a Boeing, a burning smell needs to be checked out NOW.



Looking at my early model SF Fury it appears that if the magnet became dislodged by a fall, and my Fury has drop tested itself more than any other light, the magnet could slide off center and short the top of the battery against side of the wall of the P2X body. If the switch was on the high energy battery would be shorted.

My problem with a magnet in a SF U2 was while using an unprotected blue battery, hopefully the 3400 mAh cells are well protected against a short. But, if they are not or the protection fails there is certainly enough power in that cell to ruin your whole day  in my opinion.

And, it is possible that the boring process or ronac's custom body changes the battery tube geometry enough to prevent a short circuit with a battery and flat top cell.


----------



## Eric242

Using a small magnet on a flat top cell to ensure propper contact is not a problem if done right. You just have to use a plastic washer or something similar to prevent the magnet from moving. That´s what I do with my megallennium body from fivemega. I just took a quick picture to show how that works:






The cell with the magnet sits tight in the battery tube without the ability to move back or forth and the washer prevents it to move sideways. No way for an accidental shortcut. In this particular case the magnet is needed because the contact "part" of the body isn´t raised enough.

Same thing needs to be done if one is using a magnet for a spacer. Here´s a picture of 2 AW 18350 cells and a spacer magnet covered/glued in foam I use in a 3x18350 lego light to make contact. Same thing here, the magnet can´t move at all.






Eric


----------



## sboonjue

dansciurus said:


> It will unscrew from the inside of the tail cap. Just the same way as you install a mcclicky on a solar force or old 6p. Look past the spring and you can see three holes in a triple formation. You stick something like a ring pliers in the holes and unthread the entire switch from the tail cap. Then you can switch boots,install a fet tie or mccliky, or whatever else you want to do. Don't use a punch! Just search on how to install a Mc clicky switch. I am sure there is a tutorial or something on YouTube. I can try to take a picture tomorrow when I get off my shift.
> http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/ygy5eqer.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/y5ysazyb.jpg
> The lighter grey part of the actual tail cap is the threads. Its pretty straightforward once ya take a peak. Just make sure to twist it the right way. And be gentle. Looks to be a lefty loosy righty tighty thread but don't mark my words. My threads are greasy and its hard for me to see right now.
> It actually uses the same threads that the body uses for the tail cap. It is just threaded into the end of the cap. Use tweasers or something small to grip the small three divots and unthread the whole switch from the cap. When you reninstall make sure to not over tighten it, because the three copper wings are what touch the body when you put it all back together. If you over tighten the switch in the tail cap sometimes there can be a gap. If you put it together and it doesn't work, just fiddle with it a bit to get the spacing right. Should only be a matter of quarter turns. There should be a o ring on the boot side of the switch to keep it watertight. I think?  Hope it helps. Keep us posted.
> 
> It burns when I Tapatalk...



MAN...this thing is on TIGHT, I bent the tweezers I had trying to unscrew it, I think im going to go to the parts store and see what "tool" I can get to make this process easier.... can't have enough tools right?!

Your images are oversize, when you post an image please remember Rule #3 

Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels.

*Please resize and repost.* - Thanks Norm


----------



## sboonjue

damnit...I guess I put the tailcap in the oven for too long, and melted the plastic clicky part inside the boot...this sucks! i had to order a new mcclicky, oh well...chalked up as lesson learned! atleast I was able to unscrew the damn thing!


----------



## precisionworks

tobrien said:


> ... if the AW 3400 mAh 18650 cells make contact with the head?... I think I need a button top 18650 specifically.



The only cells I've run in my personal Fury are the Panasonic protected 3400 button tops. These are the ones I currently use: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PANASONIC...US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item5af1b36126


----------



## dansciurus

sboonjue said:


> damnit...I guess I put the tailcap in the oven for too long, and melted the plastic clicky part inside the boot...this sucks! i had to order a new mcclicky, oh well...chalked up as lesson learned! atleast I was able to unscrew the damn thing!


That ain't good. Well, at least you got it out lol. No worse off than if you had used a punch. Make sure to take a few photos for us when you get the mcclicky in. I am curious to see.


----------



## sboonjue

dansciurus said:


> That ain't good. Well, at least you got it out lol. No worse off than if you had used a punch. Make sure to take a few photos for us when you get the mcclicky in. I am curious to see.



Im hoping the mcclicky I got will fit.. its for the z41 tailcaps, I have the 2 stage fury 15 lumens/500 lumens. Hopefully it works out, im without a torch at the moment =( im looking into getting another torch I can clip to my pocket like I do with a knife...maybe something not too expensive like a fenix or something... I will take pics once I get the new mcclicky with the green gitd. All I wanted to do was put a damn green gitd boot in! ended up costing me $30!


----------



## dansciurus

sboonjue said:


> Im hoping the mcclicky I got will fit.. its for the z41 tailcaps, I have the 2 stage fury 15 lumens/500 lumens. Hopefully it works out, im without a torch at the moment =( im looking into getting another torch I can clip to my pocket like I do with a knife...maybe something not too expensive like a fenix or something... I will take pics once I get the new mcclicky with the green gitd. All I wanted to do was put a damn green gitd boot in! ended up costing me $30!



As far as it working, it should. I can switch between modes by shorting out the negative to the body with my multimeter. The modes are in the board, in the head. I also hope it works out for ya, because I want a gitd boot too. Make sure to take those pictures. I took my switch apart today with just a ring pliers. It did have a thread or two of red loc-tite in it. (Hate how SF started using that junk. Just makes it harder for us to mess with their good designs haha. The threads are what I don't know about. Whether the fury cap and the z41 cap have the same threads. But just above in a few posts, I seen that someone used a z49 (post#1198) on his original fury body. But I haven't found anyone who put a mcclicky in a z49 cap as of yet. I definitely hope the threading is compatible . I have a mclicky in my old 6p, but I couldn't seem to get it out tonight, so I can't confirm it will fit. Let us know when ya find out, cause I want gitd too!

EDIT!!!!!!! http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?360882-OR-McClicky-Kit-in-a-Fury-Tail I found this searching the site for info. Looks to be that the 6px, and the p2x have the same cap. (CLOSE TOO) It gives hope at least


----------



## tobrien

precisionworks said:


> The only cells I've run in my personal Fury are the Panasonic protected 3400 button tops. These are the ones I currently use: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PANASONIC...US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item5af1b36126


ah thanks! do those have steel or gold bottom plates?


----------



## newbie66

Robin24k said:


> Yes, the R1, UNR, and UBR all have the same stepdown to ~450 lumens.



I think the only flashlights that have no stepdown are the ones from Wisedive that are used for diving but are equally suited for use on land. They use some sort of patented RamFlow cooling system on lights with 5000lumens!
Really cool lights but a bit too large and expensive for my taste...


----------



## light ho

Anyone have the leather holster for the fury? Some pics would be nice.


----------



## sboonjue

dansciurus said:


> As far as it working, it should. I can switch between modes by shorting out the negative to the body with my multimeter. The modes are in the board, in the head. I also hope it works out for ya, because I want a gitd boot too. Make sure to take those pictures. I took my switch apart today with just a ring pliers. It did have a thread or two of red loc-tite in it. (Hate how SF started using that junk. Just makes it harder for us to mess with their good designs haha. The threads are what I don't know about. Whether the fury cap and the z41 cap have the same threads. But just above in a few posts, I seen that someone used a z49 (post#1198) on his original fury body. But I haven't found anyone who put a mcclicky in a z49 cap as of yet. I definitely hope the threading is compatible . I have a mclicky in my old 6p, but I couldn't seem to get it out tonight, so I can't confirm it will fit. Let us know when ya find out, cause I want gitd too!
> 
> EDIT!!!!!!! http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?360882-OR-McClicky-Kit-in-a-Fury-Tail I found this searching the site for info. Looks to be that the 6px, and the p2x have the same cap. (CLOSE TOO) It gives hope at least




Well so far so good! All the function works!

http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i464/sboonjue/null_zpsec282c06.jpg

http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i464/sboonjue/null_zpsff1cfc89.jpg

Your images are oversize, when you post an image please remember Rule #3 

Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels.

*Please resize and repost.* - Thanks Norm


----------



## maserati2011

Hi there , I'm the new member . I just got the P2X Fury and i jut want to know that can i feed it with 2 RCR123 . a fully RCR123 run 4.2 Voltage . thanks


----------



## Up All Night

:welcome:
Some run that set-up without any reported issues. It will also run full output on a 17670, mine certainly does. I'll take one cell over two when I can.
Soon to be 18650 with ronac's 18650 Fury body!

PS,
The 18650 option requires your light to have a removable head. Obvious for a body swap but also required to have it bored.


----------



## precisionworks

Up All Night said:


> :welcome:
> ... The 18650 option requires your light to have a removable head. Obvious for a body swap but also required to have it bored.



On about half the Fury's that I see the head unscrews with only hand pressure. The other half are held in a set of bored hard maple blocks, clamped in my bench vise, and removed with a Rigid 3160 strap wrench. The 18" handle on the strap wrench gets the job done most of the time.


----------



## cland72

precisionworks said:


> On about half the Fury's that I see the head unscrews with only hand pressure. The other half are held in a set of bored hard maple blocks, clamped in my bench vise, and removed with a Rigid 3160 strap wrench. The 18" handle on the strap wrench gets the job done most of the time.
> 
> http://cdn-2-service.phanfare.com/i...55-2-Web_0_d078d18cd69418c2a2c1fca7d5ea1e98_1



LOL, that is ridiculous


----------



## outersquare

is it pretty much certain the fury will be upgraded to the XML2?


----------



## tobrien

outersquare said:


> is it pretty much certain the fury will be upgraded to the XML2?



I doubt surefire would be that quick to upgrade it even this year. Sf is super slow about emitter upgrades as far as I know 


— Sent from my unreleased, next generation iPad 44 running iOS 'M' (to be released in the year 2036) that Steve Jobs gave me personally using Tapatalk QuadHD 7 posted by TweetDeck 97.5.2.


----------



## tobrien

Is my math correct on how much runtime one might expect to see when comparing a 3400 mAh cell versus a 2900 mAh cell? The following assumes the Fury draws at 1.5 Amps (that's its current draw right?):

3400 mAh Panasonic: 3,400 / 1,500 = 2.26666666666666666666666666666667

2.26666666666666666666666666666667 x 60 = 136 minutes 

2900 mA Panasonic: 2,900 / 1,500 = 1.93333333333333333333333333333333

1.93333333333333333333333333333333 x 60 = 116 minutes 

That's the correct way to determine runtime, right? I realize we lose energy though inefficiencies and, additionally, I'm not draining the Li-ion cell down to 0.0 volts. I'm really just trying to see how much or little of a difference it is between the two capacities. 


Edit: this is on high mode of course 

— Sent from my unreleased, next generation iPad 44 running iOS 'M' (to be released in the year 2036) that Steve Jobs gave me personally using Tapatalk QuadHD 7 posted by TweetDeck 97.5.2.


----------



## ganymede

outersquare said:


> is it pretty much certain the fury will be upgraded to the XML2?



I'm interested to see XM-L2 neutral in place of the XM-L, I am wondering how hard would it be to mod it?


----------



## AZPops

ganymede said:


> I'm interested to see XM-L2 neutral in place of the XM-L, I am wondering how hard would it be to mod it?




It depends if you can remove the head I guess. Wayne swapped a XP-G2 in one of my Fury's.


----------



## precisionworks

AZPops said:


> It depends if you can remove the head ...



I've found that recent production Fury's have less red loctite at the head joint than earlier production samples - about half of these unscrew with moderate to hard hand pressure. The other half go into the maple blocks & the strap wrench gets most of those off. 

So far only one Fury has defeated my best efforts & it's the only unbored SF that I own 

Best calculation on torque value is that a few Fury's still require everything the maple blocks & strap wrench can do, about 150 lb/ft. Maybe 10% of those I've seen require this much force & the others are pretty easy IF you get a solid grip on the body & the head.


----------



## ronac

Courtesy of wacbzz, check out the new Fury heads, they have springs! No more problems with flat top 18650's!

The Fury is the next generation of Surefire Lego.


----------



## Drjones

Can anybody share some good sheaths that will fit the Fury Combatlight? I think I read elsewhere the Maxpedition 5" sheath fits it well; does that in fact fit the Fury Combatlight, and are there any other good ones to look at?
I'd like both MOLLE/belt loop compatible.

Thanks!


----------



## Walll

Is there any new information about when the update to the 600 lumen version of the Fury will be? I've been checking around and saw that it should have happened some months ago... I really want a P2X but I don't want to buy the current one when I know the new version is just around the corner!! If anyone can shed some light on this, I -and I'm sure others- would appreciate it!


----------



## RIX TUX

Greenbean said:


> *Looking great!!!!!!
> 
> I may have to sell my current Fury and get another because it will NOT come apart!!!!!
> 
> *


I thought hard about boring my FURY and in the mean time I used a 16650 battery that was rated at 2200 mah. A bit higher than the 17670 batteries. It worked fine. I never tested the runtime but should be longer than 123a batteries. 
This could be an option for Furys that can't be bored.


----------



## HotWire

I bought a FiveMega body which came bored to 18+mm. It has both knurling and the finger grooves so it is easy to hold onto. 18650B Panasonic cells fit nicely inside....


----------



## RIX TUX

HotWire said:


> I bought a FiveMega body which came bored to 18+mm. It has both knurling and the finger grooves so it is easy to hold onto. 18650B Panasonic cells fit nicely inside....



for a Fury?


----------



## HotWire

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?371214-18650-urefire-Fury-body-By-FIVEMEGA


----------



## precisionworks

RIX TUX said:


> I thought hard about boring my FURY and in the mean time I used a 16650 battery that was rated at 2200 mah. A bit higher than the 17670 batteries. It worked fine. I never tested the runtime but should be longer than 123a batteries.
> 
> *This could be an option for Fury's that can't be bored.*



The only obstacle to boring a Fury is removing the head. So I've had only one Fury head that was glued on so tight that it wouldn't come off, no matter what. IMO about half the Fury heads come off with hand pressure & half need more force. The earliest lights have the most red loctite & are the toughest to get off. Later production usually comes apart without much drama.


----------



## HotWire

I have one of the first Fury flashlights. I got it off with a heavy rubber glove on the head and duct tape around the body with large pliers. Most of the threads were covered with Loctite. There is plenty of metal on the body to bore it to 18mm+.


----------



## RIX TUX

^^ Careful at the tail........not as thick.^^


----------



## precisionworks

RIX TUX said:


> ^^ Careful at the tail........not as thick.^^


+1

The tail O-ring area on all full size SF lights is the thinnest part of the body. AFAIK the same O-ring dimension has been used since Laser Products started - 0.775" OD at the groove (19.68 mm).

I final ream all full size lights to 0.744" & so far everything fits inside that dimension (18.90 mm). I have an older Fivemega tube for a 9P that measures 0.750" (19.05 mm). Pretty similar dimensions. 

As long as the tube is centered in the lathe as perfectly as possible the OD & the ID remain concentric, stresses are evenly distributed & the body remains durable.


----------



## RIX TUX

I don't know it already been covered here yet but are there any body extensions that can be used on the p2x and is there an increase in performance?


----------



## Dave D

RIX TUX said:


> I don't know it already been covered here yet but are there any body extensions that can be used on the p2x and is there an increase in performance?



I think someone already quoted that above 6v will fry the electronics.


----------



## Toohotruk

I remember reading in this thread somewhere, that someone was running two RCR123s in their Fury with no problems...that would put it over 8V on a fresh charge.


----------



## RIX TUX

I have now bored out my SUREFIRE FURY myself - here are some tips

Used a 18v drill, took 2 batteries 
Take the o rings off
I used a socket wrench extension wrapped in duct tape to get it to the right size
Cut a piece of 60 grit sandpaper taped (about 1/2 inch bigger on each end than the tube) and wrapped around in the right direction the drill rotates 
Used a heavy leather work glove to hold the body
It gets kinda hot if run fast so I would rinse with water every 10-15 minutes and try to put a battery in it
Had to change the sandpaper 3-4 times and add more duct tape
You might use a bad battery when testing it because the wrapper may get damaged
Bore it enough so the battery can fall out on its own, the battery should not be a tight fit
Dont bore it too big, the tube is thinner near the end and where the o rings are
After it is bored enough I smoothed it out with fine steel wool
It is important to get the tube smooth so the batteries wont get damaged being taken in and out
Took about an hour and a half


----------



## Swedpat

RIX TUX said:


> I don't know it already been covered here yet but are there any body extensions that can be used on the p2x and is there an increase in performance?



The thought actually came to my mind if the only difference between P2X and P3X is the battery tube.


----------



## precisionworks

RIX TUX said:


> ... are there any body extensions that can be used on the p2x and is there an increase in performance?


Surefire A19 gives a 1-cell extension.



Swedpat said:


> The thought actually came to my mind if the only difference between P2X and P3X is the battery tube.


There's a bit more to it than that - the driver board runs different parameters on the 3-cell. Higher voltage, lower current, greater lumen output.


----------



## Toohotruk

Has anyone tried three cells in a P2X Fury? If so, is it brighter? :shrug:

I don't dare try it with mine...I'm too poor to replace it if it fries it.


----------



## precisionworks

Walll said:


> Is there any new information about when the update to the 600 lumen version of the Fury will be? ...


The early Fury's tested 500+ lumens in my IS & the last ones all test 600L +. Not a clue as to when this happened nor any way to ID which particular light is 500L & which is 600L.

First 15 minutes with cell fresh off charger:







A CPF member is letting me borrow his data logger & I'll run the graph from start until the output reaches 50L. Battery tail cap draw is higher, light output is higher, head runs hotter (120°F in free air at 68° ambient temp) and runtime should be less.


----------



## pjandyho

precisionworks said:


> Battery tail cap draw is higher, light output is higher, head runs hotter (120°F in free air at 68° ambient temp) and runtime should be less.


If this is the case, I would rather stick with my 500 lumen Fury. No point to sacrifice runtime and endure with a hotter light just for that measly 100 lumens more which we all know is not visually perceptible. Thanks for the heads up. Been thinking of getting a second Fury but I guess I will pass.


----------



## RIX TUX

*Re: Surefire Fury*

The FURY is a bit smooth and want to hear about or see pics of what others use or put on the body to make it more grippy.


----------



## Drjones

*Re: Surefire Fury*



RIX TUX said:


> The FURY is a bit smooth and want to hear about or see pics of what others use or put on the body to make it more grippy.




The big rubber ring & body cut-outs of the Combatlight version.


----------



## AZPops

*Re: Surefire Fury*



RIX TUX said:


> The FURY is a bit smooth and want to hear about or see pics of what others use or put on the body to make it more grippy.




Both Fury's are set up with o-rings ...







However I presently use only one large o-ring, e.g. the o-ring that's toward the front of the light.


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: Surefire Fury*



RIX TUX said:


> The FURY is a bit smooth and want to hear about or see pics of what others use or put on the body to make it more grippy.



I've tried some different methods to improve the grip ... O-rings, grip tape, etc. So far my favorite is fabric heat shrink tubing:






FWIW if you purchase the fabric tubing be sure to use a heat gun & not any type of open flame. It took half a dozen failed attempts to convince me that a propane torch (even on the lowest setting) was not working. I wasted enough tubing to pay for half a heat gun & the heat gun is the only reliable way to work with fabric.


----------



## cland72

*Re: Surefire Fury*



AZPops said:


> Both Fury's are set up with o-rings ...
> 
> 
> [URL]http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/spartan158/c0662ee5.jpg[/URL]
> 
> 
> However I presently use only one large o-ring, e.g. the o-ring that's toward the front of the light.



I do this exact thing, and it made a world of difference in my grip on the light. I highly recommend it.


----------



## AZPops

*Re: Surefire Fury*



cland72 said:


> I do this exact thing, and it made a world of difference in my grip on the light. I highly recommend it.




IMO o-rings are man's greatest invention for flashlights! ... :thumbsup:


:tinfoil:


----------



## OrBy

*Re: Surefire Fury*

FLIR footage of a SF Fury heating up... Just did it for fun.

http://youtu.be/6QBRRKnxZ88


----------



## 880arm

*Re: Surefire Fury*



OrBy said:


> FLIR footage of a SF Fury heating up... Just did it for fun.
> 
> http://youtu.be/6QBRRKnxZ88



Neat stuff. I have been meaning to try at work with a couple of lights but haven't gotten around to it.

Thank you for sharing.


----------



## Toohotruk

Cool...I mean hot vid, LOL! oo:


----------



## mikedsokc

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Does the P2X Fury Tactical have a spring on the circuit board? I have a G2X Tactical and it has a spring on the circuit board. I'm debating on the Duel or the Tactical. It may not make a difference, but I prefer to have dual springs.


----------



## cland72

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I bought mine shortly after they first came out, and mine does not have a spring at the positive end of the battery.


----------



## Toohotruk

Mine is from the first run too and does not have a spring. That's the only thing I don't like about it...it hasn't been a problem, but I would rather have a spring too. 

I can't speak for the newer Furys.


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Unless you're running the light on a long gun the lack of spring shouldn't matter. When the bolt of a semiautomatic or full automatic rifle slams home it may cause a non-spring light to flicker (or change modes if it's a 2-stage model). Same thing with some shotguns.


----------



## mikedsokc

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I saw in the 2014 Surefire catalogue, the Fury was listed as a 600 lumen light. When can we expect to see these?


----------



## 880arm

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



mikedsokc said:


> I saw in the 2014 Surefire catalogue, the Fury was listed as a 600 lumen light. When can we expect to see these?



There's no telling. It was listed like that in the 2013 catalog too. :shrug:


----------



## mckeand13

*Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*

I’ve recently got a Fury (500L) that I’m really starting to like.

I’ve searched and can’t find pictures, write ups, or anything where somebody has opened up the head and detailed it’s innards or performed an LED swap. 

Am I missing something, or is everybody leaving the head stock? Come on, there are tint snobs all over, me included. I’ve got a 4000K XM-L2 looking for a home.


----------



## mckeand13

*Re: Surefire Fury*



RIX TUX said:


> The FURY is a bit smooth and want to hear about or see pics of what others use or put on the body to make it more grippy.



Put an RPM tailcap on it and you're all set. It feels perfect in hand after one change.

www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?373742


----------



## 880arm

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*



mckeand13 said:


> I’ve recently got a Fury (500L) that I’m really starting to like.
> 
> I’ve searched and can’t find pictures, write ups, or anything where somebody has opened up the head and detailed it’s innards or performed an LED swap.
> 
> Am I missing something, or is everybody leaving the head stock? Come on, there are tint snobs all over, me included. I’ve got a 4000K XM-L2 looking for a home.



AZPops had his modded to use an XP-G2 for a tighter beam (link). I can't remember seeing any that were modded with a different XM-L but I'm sure it could be done.


----------



## mckeand13

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*



880arm said:


> AZPops had his modded to use an XP-G2 for a tighter beam (link). I can't remember seeing any that were modded with a different XM-L but I'm sure it could be done.



Definitely a tighter hot spot with the XP-G2. Beam shots looked nice. 

Still no pics of it taken apart though.....


----------



## Dave D

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*



mckeand13 said:


> Still no pics of it taken apart though.....



I have a couple of pictures of the driver board, I took them when I dismantled mine to bore it for a 18650 battery.


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*



Dave D said:


> ... I dismantled mine to bore it for a 18650 battery.


If the head will not come off, the Fury (2-cell or 3-cell) can be bored with the head intact. As long as the boring bar & reamer are stopped 1mm short of the board it turns out nicely:






If the boring bar or the reamer are run in too far the board is destroyed. Not to worry, just fill the tube with lead shot & use it for a paper weight :fail:


----------



## DRoc

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*

I recently modded my P2X with an aftermarket body and am concerned about water resistance. Has anyone experienced water intrusion after modding, whether it be boring the body or swapping to an aftermarket body? I lubed the o ring with nyogel, but still wonder if this is adequate as my light comes into occasional contact with all kinds of substances and gets washed after. The light was rediculous to separate head from body, took me and a buddy and three strap wrenches. The loctite that was in there looked different from others I've seen...it appeared a little softer and was reddish. Possibly a different type than commonly used. 
Also does anyone know if water was to seep into the battery tube, is it possible to make its way into the emitter ares? That would be just about impossible to dry out...
Regards in advance...from my phone...


----------



## mckeand13

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*



precisionworks said:


> If the head will not come off, the Fury (2-cell or 3-cell) can be bored with the head intact. As long as the boring bar & reamer are stopped 1mm short of the board it turns out nicely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the boring bar or the reamer are run in too far the board is destroyed. Not to worry, just fill the tube with lead shot & use it for a paper weight :fail:



Barry,

Doesn't the positive spring (if present) present a problem in getting the tooling deep enough?


----------



## mckeand13

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*



DRoc said:


> I recently modded my P2X with an aftermarket body and am concerned about water resistance. Has anyone experienced water intrusion after modding, whether it be boring the body or swapping to an aftermarket body? I lubed the o ring with nyogel, but still wonder if this is adequate as my light comes into occasional contact with all kinds of substances and gets washed after. The light was rediculous to separate head from body, took me and a buddy and three strap wrenches. The loctite that was in there looked different from others I've seen...it appeared a little softer and was reddish. Possibly a different type than commonly used.
> Also does anyone know if water was to seep into the battery tube, is it possible to make its way into the emitter ares? That would be just about impossible to dry out...
> Regards in advance...from my phone...




What! An LED in the hands of DRoc? Now were talking. 

Anyway, you should be just fine if you've got the O-ring back on the head and tail, in good condition, lubed nicely so it can move around on the way back in, and all of the bits and pieces of the old thread locker removed. 

If water does get inside you might be in trouble. Obviously best to avoid. I don't think the internals are potted or have any conformal coating at least from what I could see when I had mine apart.


----------



## DRoc

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*

Yea...I have a few LEDs...lol. not as many as incans, but I have a few for sure. Those 500 lumens are useful for work a lot. I cannot deny that. Hahaha!


mckeand13 said:


> What! An LED in the hands of DRoc? Now were talking. Anyway, you should be just fine if you've got the O-ring back on the head and tail, in good condition, lubed nicely so it can move around on the way back in, and all of the bits and pieces of the old thread locker removed. If water does get inside you might be in trouble. Obviously best to avoid. I don't think the internals are potted or have any conformal coating at least from what I could see when I had mine apart.


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*

Don't mean to necropost but I just saw this question.



mckeand13 said:


> Doesn't the positive spring (if present) present a problem in getting the tooling deep enough?


That's the challenge of boring with the head intact & that's also the reason I had special tooling made up. Both the boring bar & the finishing reamer are built with clearance that allows the spring to remain untouched as the tube is bored & reamed. 

It is certainly a challenge to enlarge the bore without contacting the head spring or the circuit board. It takes more time to machine with the head on but I've done quite a few without any issues.


----------



## kyhunter1

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*

Thinking about picking up another 2 mode fury. Where can I get one that has the XML2 and 600 lumens? If memory serves correct, the newer Fury's are suppose to be rated at 600 now and updated with the new emmitter.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*

Buy the latest stock from an authorized dealer. Handheld Furys have been running 600 lumens for awhile now. This is not noted in the specs. Under promise, over deliver has always been Surefires MO.


----------



## kyhunter1

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*

It would be nice to know which dealer has them. If anybody knows for sure, shoot me a pm.


----------



## sgt253

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*

+1. Would love to know where I can get the latest version.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*

I would imagine any large vendor that is authorized to sell Surefire. I bought mine from a well known store 6 months ago and believe its 600 lumens. There has been 1 or 2 runtime graphs prior to that, that show 600, so Im pretty sure most large dealers have current stock. Even if its a few months old you should be fine. That said 99/100 people wouldn't even notice the bump without a light sphere.


----------



## kyhunter1

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*

Does yours have a XML2 with the silver pad?



ForrestChump said:


> I would imagine any large vendor that is authorized to sell Surefire. I bought mine from a well known store 6 months ago and believe its 600 lumens. There has been 1 or 2 runtime graphs prior to that, that show 600, so Im pretty sure most large dealers have current stock. Even if its a few months old you should be fine. That said 99/100 people wouldn't even notice the bump without a light sphere.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*



kyhunter1 said:


> Does yours have a XML2 with the silver pad?



It does in fact not. This is what I have:

http://light-reviews.com/Flashlight...ury-dual-output-led-review/head-front-view-7/

I might be eating my words here, but lets figure out the facts on this 600 thing.
Emitters are not my forte so would a pro jump in here and help us out?? :candle:


----------



## 880arm

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*

That's an XM-L. I haven't seen or heard anything yet about a Fury with the XM-L2, but that doesn't mean there's not one out there.

For what it's worth, my 2+ year old "500 lumen" P2X Fury has the same XM-L emitter as my 2+ month old "600 lumen" Fury Scout Light. The reflectors are a little different but, aside from that, there's not much difference in their beams. (see here)

I really need to do some testing on the Scout Light . . . don't yet know if there are any differences in current, runtime, etc.


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I doubt that one person in 100 can tell the difference between 500 lumens & 600 lumens. The difference between 500 lumens and 1000 lumens is easy to see as the eye can perceive when light output is doubled or when it is cut in half. 

If the Fury was dual mode & alternated between 500 & 600 lumens (high & higher) some of us might see the slight difference but it's insignificant. YMMV.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



precisionworks said:


> I doubt that one person in 100 can tell the difference between 500 lumens & 600 lumens. The difference between 500 lumens and 1000 lumens is easy to see as the eye can perceive when light output is doubled or when it is cut in half.
> 
> If the Fury was dual mode & alternated between 500 & 600 lumens (high & higher) some of us might see the slight difference but it's insignificant. YMMV.



Agreed. Maybe the 99/100 wasn't the best analogy.

And 500 immediately to 600, that would likely be noticeable.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED*



880arm said:


> That's an XM-L. I haven't seen or heard anything yet about a Fury with the XM-L2, but that doesn't mean there's not one out there.
> 
> For what it's worth, my 2+ year old "500 lumen" P2X Fury has the same XM-L emitter as my 2+ month old "600 lumen" Fury Scout Light. The reflectors are a little different but, aside from that, there's not much difference in their beams. (see here)
> 
> I really need to do some testing on the Scout Light . . . don't yet know if there are any differences in current, runtime, etc.



+10

Jim coming through once again. Unsolicited by Jim, make sure you can support the site when you can. The man probably orders trucks full of CR123's not to mention the many, many, hours invested. I like a lot others have obtained a wealth of knowledge there, saving a lot of us money and stress in buying and returning. He's like plugging into the flashlight Matrix. EXCELLENT work and he's not a bad guy to boot.


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Well said.


----------



## happyguy82

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Hi

My Fury ran through 2 LiFePO4 set of batteries ( total run time just over 1 hour) last weekend and it got very hot as I was hardly holding it so no heat drain  I was cautious of this so I did turn it off once it go really hot to let it cool down before re using it. The point is it probably hit very high temperature a few times. Would that have degraded the XM-L LED to the point the output will now be less than what it was???

Thanks.


Sent from my iGoldBar using Candlepowerforums


----------



## 880arm

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Jason and Barry, thanks you two. You're good people :twothumbs



happyguy82 said:


> . . .Would that have degraded the XM-L LED to the point the output will now be less than what it was???



Unless you had the light wrapped in insulation where no heat could escape I wouldn't worry about it. The P2X runs hot, plain and simple, but if it were overheated to the point of damage you would probably notice discoloration of the LED and/or a shift in beam tint.

I suppose we theoretically degrade the output of our LEDs every time we use our lights. However their lifespan is so ridiculously long the difference is minuscule.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



happyguy82 said:


> Hi
> 
> My Fury ran through 2 LiFePO4 set of batteries ( total run time just over 1 hour) last weekend and it got very hot as I was hardly holding it so no heat drain  I was cautious of this so I did turn it off once it go really hot to let it cool down before re using it. The point is it probably hit very high temperature a few times. Would that have degraded the XM-L LED to the point the output will now be less than what it was???
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iGoldBar using Candlepowerforums



Nah, You're good to go. Thats the OCD talking. Im sure running a set of Lifepo4 through the Fury a few times without cooling was done before releasing the lifepo4 cells.

I did just read somewhere that an older Defender was damaged on high left on in a purse, so like 880 said just don't tuck it into bed on hi and sleep on it. 

Your Fury should be fine. :buddies:


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: A word of warning*

Just taken the Driver Board out of my P2x. The spring was compressed and causing problems. Here's a pic of the board courtesy of DAVE D post 1270. When I figure out how to upload a picture! Meanwhile go to post #1270

The two tubes sticking out from the board connect with the emitter. It took me 30 mins to get the thing aligned when refitting the board. Watch out not to bend the pins on the emitter side. Also on mine the tubes had come loose and actually fell off. Another 5 mins of very difficult soldering followed by another 15 mins of alignment. Just to stretch a spring. Still it works, now.


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Surefire customer service is excellent. They will fix problems like that at no charge and get the light back to you quickly - at least IMO.


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Thanks for the Heads-up, but I've voided the Warranty, already, by pulling the head off in preparation for boring.


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

It's easy to damage the driver board, pin connection, etc., by using a great deal of force to twist apart the body from the head - please don't ask how I know. The driver board is sandwiched between the body & the head & Surefire applies adhesive (sealant/glue/red loctite) so it's almost impossible to get the light apart without damaging the driver board.

The best solution IMHO is to bore with the head attached. Stop boring 1/4 mm before touching the driver board & everything works as it should. Boring to deep renders the light useless.


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I don't suppose anyone else has tried this, but....
Turn your P2x on for a couple of minutes, take off the tailcap, and put your tongue on the spring - it's hot! We're losing valuable watts heating up the tailspring. Ive replaced it with a Zero Res for fun and I'm slightly convinced the light is a tiny bit brighter. If someone with a light meter could be bothered to measure it, it would be ineteresting. Anyway, it's nice not losing valuable power.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I just tried it with mine. No heat whatsoever. I wouldn't think that the fury draws that much. I wonder if your spring snuck through quality control. Cool info though. My fury boot switch is almost shot so u plan on a mcclicky pack soon.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dansciurus said:


> I just tried it with mine. No heat whatsoever. I wouldn't think that the fury draws that much. I wonder if your spring snuck through quality control. Cool info though. My fury boot switch is almost shot so u plan on a mcclicky pack soon.




I've been dying to ask this for awhile.

Is there any reliability / performance advantage to the mclicky over the stock switch on the P23 / P3X?


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I have the mcclicky on another sf light. I much prefer the mcclicky. It's much better than the stock click switches. Also it does handle harder draw. But yes in functionality... I think its much better. Much easier too use. It just feels right.


----------



## Robin24k

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dansciurus said:


> I just tried it with mine. No heat whatsoever. I wouldn't think that the fury draws that much. I wonder if your spring snuck through quality control. Cool info though. My fury boot switch is almost shot so u plan on a mcclicky pack soon.


I haven't measured the resistance of the tailcap, but the spring is probably heating up with the rest of the light. I don't think there is enough current (1.2A) or resistance to generate significant amounts of heat.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

As far as a performance jump in a fury... Idk of it will help there. Stock surefires are not driven hard. But the feel of the light would be much nicer.


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

The Mcclicky is a much better switch, and it works on my P2X. While you're at it, put on a Triad Tail - you'll never want another light.


----------



## newbie66

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



peter yetman said:


> you'll never want another light.



I am afraid I have to disagree with you, at least for some of us. No matter how great the light is, the addiction will always make us want another type. The urge is just too strong! More so when we have the budget and new ones keep coming out!


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Yeah, that was a bit tongue in cheek. I'm never satisfied either.


----------



## newbie66

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



peter yetman said:


> Yeah, that was a bit tongue in cheek. I'm never satisfied either.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dansciurus said:


> I have the mcclicky on another sf light. I much prefer the mcclicky. It's much better than the stock click switches. Also it does handle harder draw. But yes in functionality... I think its much better. Much easier too use. It just feels right.




Yeah, been pondering that Triad.

It makes the Fury look "dangerous", I like my lights a little more subtle....

Looks perfect on the Peacekeeper thought.

http://flashlightguide.com/2014/09/review-surefire-p1r-peacekeeper/


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

It may look dangerous, but it feels much better in your hand. Also the added torque from a larger tailcap makes it much easier to turn on and off.


----------



## peter yetman

*P2X P3X Tailcap*

Has anyone tried to get the clciky switch out of a P2X / P3X Tailcap?
Is it glued in? Looks like there's 3 indentations in the switch rather than the 2 in a Z41 so needle nosed pliers are out. I only ask, as I have a spare and want to put it a Triad Tail and save the money for a McClicky.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I have seen people boil it for a minute to get it warm enough to soften up and break loose. I have not tried personally yet so don't take my word haha


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: P2X P3X Tailcap*



peter yetman said:


> Has anyone tried to get the clciky switch out of a P2X / P3X Tailcap?
> Is it glued in? Looks like there's 3 indentations in the switch rather than the 2 in a Z41 so needle nosed pliers are out. I only ask, as I have a spare and want to put it a Triad Tail and save the money for a McClicky.




I haven't taken one apart but I see what appears to be epoxy on the inside of the switch. Im 99.9% sure its rubber sealed from the boot switch then resealed using epoxy.


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: P2X P3X Tailcap*

Bummer.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: P2X P3X Tailcap*

I was recently made aware that you can buy Fury / G2X ect ect switches now for $10.00 from Surefire.

Although, you are overseas and state side shipping is $6.95 alone........


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: P2X P3X Tailcap*

Off roading:

Was wondering if there are any pics out there with the Fury head completely taken apart.

I would really love to see how the lens and o'rings are mounted.


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: P2X P3X Tailcap*



ForrestChump said:


> I was recently made aware that you can buy Fury / G2X ect ect switches now for $10.00 from Surefire.


IMHO the X-series switches, both click & twist, have little going for them. $10/dozen is about what they're worth :devil:

Smooth sides make them difficult to grip, button action is ... lacking, etc. As long as Z59's are available for $30 they'll be my switch of choice. The Z59 looks & feels like a traditional (6P) light & that isn't bad.


----------



## RedLED

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



precisionworks said:


> Surefire customer service is excellent. They will fix problems like that at no charge and get the light back to you quickly - at least IMO.



They do, indeed! A few years back I had mine roll of a US Navy Seahawk lifting off, and at about 25+/- Ft. It slid out the open door. This was on a training mission I was contracted to cover, and I got a nice reprimand from a Captain upon return! Not to bad, we liked each other. He laughed when I said ("Back off, Capt. I'm an artist)! (I am no artist but we can toss that when needed),

When he gave me the light back; it still worked.

They said it hit the ground and the rotor wash blew it across the Tarmac, or deck as they say.

My Oveready Triad was very dinged and scratched up, front window (they are not lenses) was cracked, head badly dinged, upon disassembly the switch fell apart, and my Moddoo clip was scratched and one minute with a a Scotch Brite if was new again.

When I sent it in, I told the Rep at SF what took place, I told him I had a custom switch, and I was sending the light in minus a switch. They sent me a new Fury, switch and all! 

Surefire has great service, never a question and always fast.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: P2X P3X Tailcap*



precisionworks said:


> IMHO the X-series switches, both click & twist, have little going for them. $10/dozen is about what they're worth :devil:
> 
> Smooth sides make them difficult to grip, button action is ... lacking, etc. As long as Z59's are available for $30 they'll be my switch of choice. The Z59 looks & feels like a traditional (6P) light & that isn't bad.




Interesting notes. I've tried a variety of SF switches and I found the X series to be exceptional. I just really liked it over the E switches.


What specifically is lacking in the switch? The Z59 is the twist for constant on correct? I prefer clicky so maybe thats why I lean the other way, no need for knurling.


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: P2X P3X Tailcap*

The Z59 is the click on / lock out tail cap. It's all personal preference when outfitting a light & the aggressive knurling of the Z59 works for me, much in contrast to the smooth contours of the body. Click action is what some people term a "hard press" versus the easier press of the Fury clickie. Thickness of the switch body appears greater than that of the Fury but I've not measured it.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: P2X P3X Tailcap*



precisionworks said:


> The Z59 is the click on / lock out tail cap. It's all personal preference when outfitting a light & the aggressive knurling of the Z59 works for me, much in contrast to the smooth contours of the body. Click action is what some people term a "hard press" versus the easier press of the Fury clickie. *Thickness of the switch body appears greater than that of the Fury but I've not measured it.*



*That* I did not know, interesting.

Would you say the z59 would be more reliable than a standard Fury switch? A little off track but how would fair against a mclicky in regards to reliability?

I have a reliable switch fetish. :wave:


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: P2X P3X Tailcap*

 The Fury clickie (sample of one) measures .054" thickness & the Z59 measures .051" ... it looks & feels thicker but isn't.

Most every expert rates the McClicky as the top dog of click switches. SF has certainly tested the durability of the Fury switches & I've yet to hear of a failure.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Actually that is the reason I want to upgrade my fury. The switch sometimes doesn't activate. Sporadic but it does fail have to do the old maglite tap on the hand a few times then she works.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: P2X P3X Tailcap*



precisionworks said:


> The Fury clickie (sample of one) measures .054" thickness & the Z59 measures .051" ... it looks & feels thicker but isn't.
> 
> Most every expert rates the McClicky as the top dog of click switches.* SF has certainly tested the durability of the Fury switches & I've yet to hear of a failure*.




Come to think of it, neither have I.

Also @ dansciurus

You try the norm? Cleaning contacts / threads / swap cells / make sure the head is tight if you loosened it?

If so call SF, takes a few days to get a new switch.

Does it have dual springs or is it the older model with no spring in the head?


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I have the pro (2mode). I do not have the spring on the board. Just a positive solder contact. I have a ronac body running a 18650. I have taken time to examine the switch and clean and everything but it's internal. I believe that when I don't put pressure straight down on the switch it doesn't always switch modes. I believe the switch has become loose but I can't adjust it any more than I have tried. It acts up about once a day if I carry it. It's on shelf duty untill I can get a mcclicky in order for it. I much prefer them anyhow so I am not too upset. Gives me a reason to install one. All in all though the stock switch has done great. Lasted over a year and a half of daily carry.


----------



## dan05gt

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Not sure it is fair to blame the switch when the flashlight had been modified.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

It does the same thing with the original body and cr123's. I made sure to try that right away thinking it could be a short from a different body. It's 100% in the switch.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dan05gt said:


> Not sure it is fair to blame the switch when the flashlight had been modified.



Agreed.

If its not bone stock I don't think it counts, unless it actually seizes up or doesn't work at all.

Just my .2


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I mentioned above your post that it does malfunction when it is bone stock as well.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dansciurus said:


> I mentioned above your post that it does malfunction when it is bone stock as well.



Just caught that. for clarification, your talking about a 100% unaltered Fury correct?


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Yes sir. I have two. One modified that can be put back to bone stock via body switch, and one that I have not modified at all. The tailcap in question still malfunctions on the non modified light as well as any other light that I put it on. I can feel the slack in the switch mechanism. The switch post that you push in is loose like a bolt in too big a hole. It wobbles under the rubber boot. If I don't push the switch straight down. Aka pressure on an angle, it doesn't work. The switch ring is still glued in, and tight. Also have tested the resistance of the switch. It only stops showing current when I push the switch boot down and slightly to the side it works great if you click the switch straight down. But must use both hands to do so as a one handed grip makes for an off center pressure.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Granted yes. I have run an 18650 Imr with the switch/tailcap in question. The battery is the same length as two surefire primaries as it doesn't have a protection circuit. At first I had wondered if the battery was bigger putting more pressure on the tail spring but that was not the case. The Imr is less voltage so I'm assuming that it's not the cause of the problem. I believe that the switch mechanism has just been used a lot, and it's just at the end of its life.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dansciurus said:


> Granted yes. I have run an 18650 Imr with the switch/tailcap in question. The battery is the same length as two surefire primaries as it doesn't have a protection circuit. At first I had wondered if the battery was bigger putting more pressure on the tail spring but that was not the case. The Imr is less voltage so I'm assuming that it's not the cause of the problem. I believe that the switch mechanism has just been used a lot, and it's just at the end of its life.



Interesting, I still stand with my ( others ) original observation. If it's not run bone stock 100% it's hard to tell if the switch was somehow damaged experimenting with different setups.

That said, without looking at it and meticulously examining all configurations used, who knows. :shrug:

Thank a lot for putting that little Devil OCD voice in my head though.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Yes that I understand. I am a huge sf fan. I have had this problem happen to a bone stock rescue light as well. Same identical tailcap switch assembly. It's the switch. It just isn't as durable as the old z59. It starts to lose over time. Not sure why as I have not fully disassembled it but its for sure in the switch. No amount of battery configurations will affect the mechanical plunger of the switch. It just goes loose over time. I wish it didn't. This has been my experience with the new style tailcaps. Bone stock or not they just wear and get loose. No way to adjust or tighten it.


----------



## 880arm

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I had a little problem with my P2X tailcap. It didn't affect operation but it just wasn't "right." I sent an e-mail through SureFire customer service and had a new tailcap within a week or two. If you haven't done so already, you need to head over here.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I know about the secret site on sf, and how awesome their service is. I will be installing a mcclicky switch on the faulty cap sooner or later. I much prefer dons switch for every reason imaginable. There just the bees knees lol. Also I'm not trying to sell anyone on them it's just all my preference.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Thanks guys, thanks a lot......

You have ruined me.:duh2:



PS - I would call, I've had no response via email for Surefire. That said, I can confirm with 880 on the quick tailcap shipments.


----------



## dan05gt

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I agree that contacting Surefire is the best path forward.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Yes calling is the best way to contact them. They are awesome when I need a replacement. I had an old surefire 6p that the bezel threads wore down to the point of not working. They sent me a whole new head assembly with the original dropin for free. I even told them that it was heavily modified and they had no problem the guy just said keep the logos on it and it's still their light no matter what ya do. Awesome people and by far my favorite torch company.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: P2X P3X Tailcap*



ForrestChump said:


> Off roading:
> 
> Was wondering if there are any pics out there with the Fury head completely taken apart.
> 
> I would really love to see how the lens and o'rings are mounted.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*


I have been looking for the same info but as far as I know the info has not been revealed. I have tried many times to direct the lens but no luck. It's really on there. I believe that if you were able to remove it, you would be the first? At least the first I have heard or seen of. I have scanned this and other threads for info but no luck.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Yup Yup,


Can't find nothing. Im really curious. It looks exceptionally well executed, but I'd like to see in detail how much rubber is sitting on either side of the lens, shockproof wise.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dansciurus said:


> I have been looking for the same info but as far as I know the info has not been revealed. I have tried many times to direct the lens but no luck. It's really on there. I believe that if you were able to remove it, you would be the first? At least the first I have heard or seen of. I have scanned this and other threads for info but no luck.



Just google imaged a few search terms. i can't even find a picture of a broken lens.....

I guess they did a great job.


Someone jumps in with a broken lens in 3.....2......1......


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I thought about cracking my lens at the end of your countdown..... But eh..... Better not.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

:devil:


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dansciurus said:


> I thought about cracking my lens at the end of your countdown..... But eh..... Better not.



Still waiting for the pics.

Come on, take one for the team.


----------



## flashlight chronic

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Come and get some!


----------



## flashlight chronic

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Here's another pic


----------



## statusman

Has anyone disassembled the lens assembly? I discovered a new P2X had a slight leak so I pulled it apart. There are 2 o-rings but the one on the reflector side seems slightly oversized and doesn't fit inside the bezel without some buckling. Any idea if I have an incorrect o-ring?


----------



## peter yetman

Do you mean where the head attaches the body? I've taken the heads off a P2X and 6PX and noticed this.
You have to screw the head on until it touches the o ring then run a finger and thumb around the ring as you screw the head on more. If that makes sense.
Did you manage to get the bezel ring off? Haven't managed that yet.


----------



## dansciurus

statusman said:


> Has anyone disassembled the lens assembly? I discovered a new P2X had a slight leak so I pulled it apart. There are 2 o-rings but the one on the reflector side seems slightly oversized and doesn't fit inside the bezel without some buckling. Any idea if I have an incorrect o-ring?



Do you mean to say that you have had the bezel and lens assembly apart? Please elaborate. Extreme interest on my part.


----------



## peter yetman

And me!


----------



## peter yetman

Here's a picture of my bedside light. Not up to the current standard of photos, I'm afraid.




P2X Pro Head, Cryos 18650 Body, Oveready Glow in the Dark Triad Tail and McClicky.
Maybe not very pretty, but I can see it in the dark and it tailstands.
I'm not a fan of low on first, but it's essential for a bedside light, then more power if you need it.


----------



## fresh eddie fresh

*Old vs New*



cland72 said:


> I bought mine shortly after they first came out, and mine does not have a spring at the positive end of the battery.



I have one of the first version, and one of the newer ones with the spring. I noticed the newer one also has a smoother reflector, so the beam profile is a lot different. In all honestly, I sort of like the original version better. It really pushes out a lot of light in a nice wide pattern without as defined a hotspot.


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Old vs New*



fresh eddie fresh said:


> I have one of the first version, and one of the newer ones with the spring. I noticed the newer one also has a smoother reflector, so the beam profile is a lot different. In all honestly, I sort of like the original version better. It really pushes out a lot of light in a nice wide pattern without as defined a hotspot.



Interesting...so I'm guessing the newer version throws better than the older one?


----------



## fresh eddie fresh

*Re: Old vs New*



Toohotruk said:


> Interesting...so I'm guessing the newer version throws better than the older one?



I never tried them side by side, throw-wise, but the newer one appears a tiny bit brighter going by the non-scientific ceiling bounce test without a meter.


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



ForrestChump said:


> Yup Yup,
> 
> 
> Can't find nothing. Im really curious. It looks exceptionally well executed, but I'd like to see in detail how much rubber is sitting on either side of the lens, shockproof wise.



OK Just for you Forest, I've taken the bezel ring off. I used a blow torch, as this is what I use to break Loctited joints on my pipework in the Brewery. If you heat it until you see a little smoke from the joint and smell a sweet smell it's enough and doesn't discolour the anno. a lot more heat will discolour the ano to light brown, not unpleasant but not necessary.
The lens is hard against the bezel ring with no rubber. there's a rubber O ring at the back of the lens, glued on so I just lifted it for the picture.










I took the opportunity to replace the Led Star as I screwed up the connections between the original star and the Driver Board. It's now connected with leads rather than the original pins which fell off. XM-L2 U2 7000K with a hopeful 1000lm. We'll see tonight.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



peter yetman said:


> OK Just for you Forest, I've taken the bezel ring off. I used a blow torch, as this is what I use to break Loctited joints on my pipework in the Brewery. If you heat it until you see a little smoke from the joint and smell a sweet smell it's enough and doesn't discolour the anno. a lot more heat will discolour the ano to light brown, not unpleasant but not necessary.
> The lens is hard against the bezel ring with no rubber. there's a rubber O ring at the back of the lens, glued on so I just lifted it for the picture.
> 
> I took the opportunity to replace the Led Star as I screwed up the connections between the original star and the Driver Board. It's now connected with leads rather than the original pins which fell off. XM-L2 U2 7000K with a hopeful 1000lm. We'll see tonight.



oo:oo:oo:oo:oo:

So there is NO FRONT o-ring between the glass and the front bezel??? Just at the back? :duh2: How does it seal? This seems backwards no?

Thanks!!!


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



peter yetman said:


> OK Just for you Forest, I've taken the bezel ring off.



You have no clue how long I have been waiting to see this. You sir are the man. Its been a few years and your the first to post this info. Rock on dude. I'm going to break out the torch too now that you gave me some directions. Big respect.


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



ForrestChump said:


> oo:oo:oo:oo:oo:
> 
> So there is NO FRONT o-ring between the glass and the front bezel??? Just at the back? :duh2: How does it seal? This seems backwards no?
> 
> Thanks!!!



Just glass against metal, I just took it apart to look, hoping for a thin o ring, but there is none. Maybe the glass was glued to the bezel ring, as it was hard to shift,
Glad to be of service dan.

I have to say that the light doesn't appear to be bombproof. The reflector is just squashed between the glass and the led star. It's hardly the standard of a Malkoff design I'm afraid.
Given my druthers I'll go Malkoff for my next one.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Retracted.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



peter yetman said:


> J
> I have to say that the light doesn't appear to be bombproof. The reflector is just squashed between the glass and the led star. It's hardly the standard of a Malkoff design I'm afraid. Given my druthers I'll go Malkoff for my next one.




Just caught this bit ( bouncing around on devices ).

How much does this matter durability wise? I would imagine not much, but it does sound much less than expected.


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Well, I've dropped my first gen Fury to concrete from around 4 feet and it landed right on the edge of the bezel, causing a pretty good ding in the aluminum and it didn't break the window. It's been dropped a couple more times from shorter distances with small dings, but that one time, I really expected to find cracked glass and was surprised it held up.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Peter, is the reflector aluminum or plastic? Just wondering before I torch my torch.


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Aluminium, keep moving the torch round the head to get an even heat and avoid overheating the ano.
Good luck!


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



peter yetman said:


> I have to say that the light doesn't appear to be bombproof. The reflector is just squashed between the glass and the led star. It's hardly the standard of a Malkoff design I'm afraid. Given my druthers I'll go Malkoff for my next one.



Hey Peter, If you would be so kind, can you elaborate on this a little more and how it might effect the light long term shock wise?


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I would think the only real drawback would be extended damage to the aluminum bezel. If it took too many impacts the bezel might take a bent or uninformed shape. It might put pressure on the lens. I would think that the threading would stop it from making the lens too extremely, especially with the loc-tite. As far as water it might possibly have an effect. Although we are talking about surefire. I would assume that their testing proved the oring was not needed on top. They do make pretty sturdy lights. These are just my thoughts.
I have dropped my fury many times and the bezel is pretty beat up. I haven't had any problems thus far. But when I get my bezel unglued I will be adding an extra oring to the top of the lens just for my own peace of mind. It might work 100% without it, but I still feel it should have been added during production.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dansciurus said:


> I would think the only real drawback would be extended damage to the aluminum bezel. If it took too many impacts the bezel might take a bent or uninformed shape. It might put pressure on the lens. I would think that the threading would stop it from making the lens too extremely, especially with the loc-tite. As far as water it might possibly have an effect. Although we are talking about surefire. I would assume that their testing proved the oring was not needed on top. They do make pretty sturdy lights. These are just my thoughts.
> I have dropped my fury many times and the bezel is pretty beat up. I haven't had any problems thus far. But when I get my bezel unglued I will be adding an extra oring to the top of the lens just for my own peace of mind. It might work 100% without it, but *I still feel it should have been added during production.*



It's these little findings that keep cropping up that are starting to sway me..... It would have cost next to nothing for another layer of protection. Glass against metal? Remember the P3X is $225 "Built to uncompromising standards." 

Malkoff - $99.00, that one has an o'ring. HDS - $140, that one has an o'ring. Elzetta - $200, that one has an o'ring. Maglight $20 - That one has an o'ring.

Surefire - meh, lets just throw on a little loctite...

Come on....


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I also agree. Hopefully it won't become a trend with sf. I still enjoy their lights for what they are. With so many options available from other companies they are going to have to either keep the no fail features going, or start to add modes and other options. Not skimp on the bulletproofness without adding other features. I prefer the older models that sf has. 6p, etc due to the modularity. I already dislike the fact that the x models are not easily opened.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dansciurus said:


> I also agree. *Hopefully it won't become a trend with sf.* I still enjoy their lights for what they are. With so many options available from other companies they are going to have to either keep the no fail features going, or start to add modes and other options. Not skimp on the bulletproofness without adding other features. I prefer the older models that sf has. 6p, etc due to the modularity. I already dislike the fact that the x models are not easily opened.



Unfortunately, I believe it already has.
In my experience the most reliable are the X Series, I have no doubt the G2X & 6PX are their most reliable models. From here on out Forrest is officially jumping ship. I really have run out of excuses design wise with many of their lights. I have experienced many inconsistencies from light to light to further justify the cost, that also seems to change with the weather. End of comments from me in regards to this issue out of respect and integrity of this thread.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I am on the same page as you Forest. Their dies are always funny tints, out of Center, etc. Most of the other companies have better quality control than sf. I probably won't be buying anymore sf's either. I have a few 6ps, and a fury. They cost so much for such a basic light it really doesn't justify the cost of them. I'll be staying on the thread just to help if I can. I want to get my fury apart, and take a few pictures of the Inside etc and show them here. Thanks for your info and all of it. Have a good day and I'll see ya in the other threads bud


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Update. I got my fury apart. It has a flat oring on bottom of lens, and a plastic oring on top of lens between lens and bezel. Pictures shortly have to mess with Photobucket quick. Gonna have to source a new lens as it chipped when I put pressure on bezel to twist it off.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



peter yetman said:


> Peter You should double check for the plastic ring. I think it might be stuck on the bezel. I also might have an earlier model that still had it installed.



Ok, so here are some pictures. I did the same as peter, heated it up over the stove burner, and stuck the head in the vise, and used a channel lock with leather so the pliers teeth didnt bite (too much). My fury has the extra plastic ring that the older surefire models have. This is the stuff.




I dont't know if mine was an earlier model, but peter, check the bezel. The plastic ring was stuck to the bezel and very hard to see. It was there though, it just blended in and didn't pop off with the lens. 





As you can see, it does look like decent under the reflector, but its nothing special. Not going to dismantle any further. I just wanted to add some v10 glow powder around the emitter. I don't know what the heatsinking is, and won't be delving deeper to find out. 

The bezel did come off pretty easy actually. The marks on my bezel are from previous when I tried to get it off without heat. I don't recommend using a pliers on the bezel though. I put too much pressure trying to keep it tight. Ended up chipping the lens a bit from the pressure. Not a worry for me, Ill just source a new lens, but I could have avoided it if I had used a Rubber filter wrench or something of sorts. Once I got a grip of the bezel though, it did spin right off. 








x
So, at least I was able to tell ya that there is indeed two orings on the fury. This is the two mode p2x. I am thinking that peter's light might have the plastic ring stuck in the bezel. Maybe not. So, yeah. Lol. Anyone know where to source a fury lens? I don't have a caliper to tell the exact size of the lens.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

*dansciurus- *, at least I was able to tell ya that there is indeed two orings on the fury. This is the two mode p2x. I am thinking that peter's light might have the plastic ring stuck in the bezel.


Makes sense, I remember now some sort of ring on my P2X / P3X, very thin - just looking not removing anything. I believe this is on all models, Peter will confirm.

Nice work.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



ForrestChump said:


> Makes sense, I remember now some sort of ring on my P2X / P3X, very thin - just looking not removing anything. I believe this is on all models, Peter will confirm.
> 
> Nice work.



Yeah the top oring isn't really an oring exactly. It's a plastic ring so it won't help with the impacts as much but it's the same as my 6p led defender. I am happy that they didn't skimp on mine. I think I might send it in for a better tint. Will keep the driver though just go to a 5000k die. Not sure yet though.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Double post please delete


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I can't really add any more to the debate about possible shock damage than you guys have already posted. Only that I concur.
I'll check for the missing ring later, it's with my soldering genius at the mo.
I've replaced the driver board with a direct drive setup with a bigger headspring from a Solarforce dropin. Looked exciting when I tested it, just need to get the thing robust.


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

So sorry to burst your balloon, Forest. Don't go away, I always enjoy your posts and informed / informative comment.


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Dan, you probably know about Flashlightlens.com. I'll try to make time to measure my lens when I get it back.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



peter yetman said:


> So sorry to burst your balloon, Forest. Don't go away, I always enjoy your posts and informed / informative comment.



Thanks man, don't plan to go anywhere. Still obsessed with lights, just a preference change is all.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Yup I mailed fllens. Com last night asking if they new the size of lens. Also mailed surefire and told them I went ahead and opened mine up. Told them I did t know they used glue now. Hoping to get a free replacement but if not oh well. My closest guess is a 30ishmm lens with a 2.-- depth. Eyeballing it just isn't quite good enough haha. 

Who do you guys recommend for an emitter swap to 4500k? Also would like to switch to at least a more efficient driver. Thinking of sending it to Wayne.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dansciurus said:


> Yup I mailed fllens. Com last night asking if they new the size of lens. Also mailed surefire and told them I went ahead and opened mine up. Told them I did t know they used glue now. Hoping to get a free replacement but if not oh well. My closest guess is a 30ishmm lens with a 2.-- depth. Eyeballing it just isn't quite good enough haha.
> 
> Who do you guys recommend for an emitter swap to 4500k? Also would like to switch to at least a more efficient driver. Thinking of sending it to Wayne.



Dude, just cut the bezel off and get one of them neutral diffuser things from Fenix. SureFire candle! The modern version of the SF Hurricane lamp!


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Haha your a funny guy.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Well I am officially done with surefire as well. I asked kindly to be sent a new lens for my fury. (offered to pay full price +shipping) No details other than I am a firefighter, and I have used it on my helmet. I declined their offered rma and let them have it. Told them off a bit. 

Yes guys I know I broke the lens. Yes I know I should not have taken it apart. My decisions aside, as forest said.... Their service is not what it used to be. Before the fury series you could just call and get any parts you needed. 

I am pretty disappointed in this to be honest. I guess I'll just have to have flashlightlens. Com custom make me a lens. 
I won't be buying another surefire again. Between my tailcap failing, and this email. I half expected it but its disappointing to hear that they no longer let you fix your own stuff. Long gone are the days of the 6p. 
(and as I said please don't bash me, as I know I voided the warranty in the first place.)


----------



## cland72

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

That's the dumbest reason to stop buying a brand I've ever heard. They wanted you to send your light in for warranty work? The nerve! And they were even going to honor the warranty when you specifically voided it. 

Wow, some people just can't be pleased. 


Sent from my iPad using Candlepowerforums


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I didn't ask for them to fix it. I asked specifically to buy the lens directly. I have had many problems with surefire. I just don't see the point to pay extreme prices for simple lights. I also mentioned that I know I broke warranty. My point is that they have changed their ways. It's not the same company that got me hooked years ago. All opinion. I am not trying to sway your vote by any means. It just turns me off personally. I have bought a load of surefires over the years. They still are bulletproof. Still decent lights. I still edc a heavily modified 6p. It just disappoints me in the way they changed they way they do it. Price goes up while quality stays the same, and options go down. Just my personal opinion and thoughts. So in many words. I apologize for inciting a war it was not my intention. Maybe I can't be pleased.


----------



## Grizzman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

There seems to be more Surefires available now with street prices under $100 than in previous years. It's clear that some of the newer series have been designed to decrease the cost of construction, and that's okay since they are at the affordable end of the range. If they are found to be less than durable, then Surefire will deserve to receive complaints. 

Haven't the prices of pretty much all domestically produced products increased in recent years?


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Peter! Find that ring!


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Lol he said he sent it away to be modded out.


----------



## Dave D

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dansciurus said:


> Well I am officially done with surefire as well. I asked kindly to be sent a new lens for my fury. (offered to pay full price +shipping) No details other than I am a firefighter, and I have used it on my helmet. I declined their offered rma and let them have it. Told them off a bit.



I don't understand your bitching at all, you bought a flashlight that is designed not to be taken apart by the user, you them dismantled it to its component parts, you broke it in the process and then you expect the manufacturer to supply you with a non-serviceable item when there is no reason why they should carry that part in stock!!

I bought a Honda motorcycle and because I was doing a lot of night riding I decided to upgrade the headlight with a Bi-Xenon HID conversion which involved placing the headlight in the oven to soften the adhesive that secures the lens to the body of the headlight, i knew that if i screwed up there was no way that Honda would supply me with a new lens, I would have to buy a complete headlight unit!

Same thing with Surefire, you take your chances if you want to do something with it that it's not intended for.

I don't like Surefire's prices and the fact that they say stuff is coming out that never materialises, but on this matter I think that they have been very fair to you.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I did all this on my own behalf. I broke the light. I am not complaining one bit. I am voicing an opinion on how the company has changed in the last ten years. I am not upset that they won't sell me a lens. Whoopie ding. I expected it. I have no problem buying a lens from a different source. 

What I do expect is for surefire to be what they used to. The company has gone downhil(again remember this is my personal opinion not fact) in the way they make their lights. It used to be much different. I lived and breathed surefire for a long time. They do not hold the same values. 

Their product is not as good as it once was. I don't care how you compare them. Old is better when it comes to sf. The previous models still are more popular. I still support their products. They are what they are. Good lights. They just produce them differently now. 

They are fair. I expected to be denied the lens due to the fact the company has changed. They now lock the lights. Is it bad? He'll no its not bad. It's great. Is it a change in ways. Heck yes. Again. Please stop the flames. I am not hating on sf. I still rock their product more than you. I have one in my pocket every single damn day. 

What I am saying is that the company is changing. Better or worse who cares. Yeah the customer service is still bad ***. I could send it in and get it fixed. We didn't use to have to do that. Ever. You called... Asked for parts and they would send them out for a price. Not anymore. Christ people ya gonna get hurt because I am voicing an opinion. Do you realize I am not going to cheat and send the light in for warranty? I broke that warranty and will not use it now. Period. I will source a new lens from elsewhere. I have no problem with that. 

Surefire is slowly becoming more and more like other companies. You can't touch it. We fix it. Yeah that's great 90%. I am a diy guy. I fix my own cars, remodel my own house. Surefire has appealed to me for 10 years because that's the way I work. Now it's not the same. I don't care how bulletproof surefire is. If I feel I need to change the light to meat my needs, why buy more. 2 modes. No lithium support. Crap tint(I don't care who you are they are behind in the lottery game.) No choices. They gave up on the 6p. Solar force picked it up. Seems that I am not the only guy out here who might think like this. Millions of surefire fanatics now do not buy them. Instead they go buy solar force copies of the once great product. 

I would like to reiterate again. I still love surefire I still love fires customer service. I still love Surefires old lights. You can't beat Surefires customer service. But I am disappointed in the fact that they have grown into a different company. They no longer do what they used to that's what hooked me. I personally will be completely modifying this light. I plan on changing the tint bin to a better choice. Purple light is not for me. Also the driver is not the most efficient. Fact. 

If yours is great, you won the lottery. This is my opinion on change. I am not going to buy more sf lights. Not because the lights suck or their customer service. My choice is because it's not what it once was. And I am sure I Will get flamed harder for this. Opinion. Opinion. Opinion. Personal choice. Opinion. Mine. Not a threat. I don't understand why everyone must fight with me. It's just opinion guys. If you don't like it, you don't have to go hard. Just click a different thread. Don't direct your comments towards me. Don't flame me. Be adults here. Voice your opinions. You don't have to flame to get an opinion voiced.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

And just because I can say this. My fury IS better than most. 




Now let's get back to the damn topic at hand please?


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



ForrestChump said:


> Peter! Find that ring!


Sorry, meant to post last night. You're so right, there is a very thin plastic ring between the glass and the bezel ring. I had to probe around with a tiny scredriver to find it. Sorry to mislead. Can't see that it would absorb much shock, but the glass is quite thick. 
I haven't forgotten about measuring the lens, it's still over the road.


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Yay! I was so hoping that they didn't skimp on that with the new design models. Wahoo. 

I am thinking I will see what Wayne can do with mine. I am thinking his new 5 mode driver with a 5000k xml-u2 /u3 driven to 4 amps. Have you heard how yours is going? I am guessing it's going to need a separate pill designed to take the heat?


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

We found the ring! I repeat: we found the ring!


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dansciurus said:


> Yup I mailed fllens. Com last night asking if they new the size of lens. Also mailed surefire and told them I went ahead and opened mine up. Told them I did t know they used glue now. Hoping to get a free replacement but if not oh well. My closest guess is a 30ishmm lens with a 2.-- depth. Eyeballing it just isn't quite good enough haha.



Just measured mine, and I make it 32mm. Don't have a micrometer, but I used a rigid steel rule and a magnifying glass. Hope that helps.
Having earthing probs with the DD mod, but we're getting there.


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Finished my DD mod. So far it's great. Obviously the same output as my OR Mini Turbohead, as it's XM-L2. Different reflector though, bigger hotspot and less spill.
Let's see how long it lasts, then I can tell you if it's a viable mod.
Just had a moment's madness and wondered if I should Loctite the head on - DOH!


----------



## fresh eddie fresh

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dansciurus said:


> I did all this on my own behalf. I broke the light. I am not complaining one bit. I am voicing an opinion on how the company has changed in the last ten years. I am not upset that they won't sell me a lens. Whoopie ding. I expected it. I have no problem buying a lens from a different source.
> 
> What I do expect is for surefire to be what they used to. The company has gone downhil(again remember this is my personal opinion not fact) in the way they make their lights. It used to be much different. I lived and breathed surefire for a long time. They do not hold the same values.
> 
> Their product is not as good as it once was. I don't care how you compare them. Old is better when it comes to sf. The previous models still are more popular. I still support their products. They are what they are. Good lights. They just produce them differently now.
> 
> They are fair. I expected to be denied the lens due to the fact the company has changed. They now lock the lights. Is it bad? He'll no its not bad. It's great. Is it a change in ways. Heck yes. Again. Please stop the flames. I am not hating on sf. I still rock their product more than you. I have one in my pocket every single damn day.
> 
> What I am saying is that the company is changing. Better or worse who cares. Yeah the customer service is still bad ***. I could send it in and get it fixed. We didn't use to have to do that. Ever. You called... Asked for parts and they would send them out for a price. Not anymore. Christ people ya gonna get hurt because I am voicing an opinion. Do you realize I am not going to cheat and send the light in for warranty? I broke that warranty and will not use it now. Period. I will source a new lens from elsewhere. I have no problem with that.
> 
> Surefire is slowly becoming more and more like other companies. You can't touch it. We fix it. Yeah that's great 90%. I am a diy guy. I fix my own cars, remodel my own house. Surefire has appealed to me for 10 years because that's the way I work. Now it's not the same. I don't care how bulletproof surefire is. If I feel I need to change the light to meat my needs, why buy more. 2 modes. No lithium support. Crap tint(I don't care who you are they are behind in the lottery game.) No choices. They gave up on the 6p. Solar force picked it up. Seems that I am not the only guy out here who might think like this. Millions of surefire fanatics now do not buy them. Instead they go buy solar force copies of the once great product.
> 
> I would like to reiterate again. I still love surefire I still love fires customer service. I still love Surefires old lights. You can't beat Surefires customer service. But I am disappointed in the fact that they have grown into a different company. They no longer do what they used to that's what hooked me. I personally will be completely modifying this light. I plan on changing the tint bin to a better choice. Purple light is not for me. Also the driver is not the most efficient. Fact.
> 
> If yours is great, you won the lottery. This is my opinion on change. I am not going to buy more sf lights. Not because the lights suck or their customer service. My choice is because it's not what it once was. And I am sure I Will get flamed harder for this. Opinion. Opinion. Opinion. Personal choice. Opinion. Mine. Not a threat. I don't understand why everyone must fight with me. It's just opinion guys. If you don't like it, you don't have to go hard. Just click a different thread. Don't direct your comments towards me. Don't flame me. Be adults here. Voice your opinions. You don't have to flame to get an opinion voiced.



I think the main difference is that LED technology is different than incan. With an incandescent bulb, the part would eventually burn out and had to be user replaced. LEDs do not generally burn out unless something goes wrong, so they are sealed in there. 

I'm not sure I agree with the "older is better" mentality. A stock 6P will give you 65 lumens for about an hour, wheras we all know what a SF Fury can do in terms of output and runtime. Most all of us have upgraded our 6Ps with drop-ins, but those are generally not even made by Surefire.


----------



## SikDMAX

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Im amazed at how well these hold their value. I think when the P2X first came out I was able to purchase a bunch around $90 or so? Just put a used one up on eBay for $75 shipped buy it now and it sold in under 12 hours!


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Just finished my Direct Drive mod, the light is just like a P3X, but brighter. With a dedomed XM-L2 it's more like a Hound Dog and out throws my P3X.
If anyone is interested the mod is here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?397514-P2X-Direct-Drive-Mod&p=4605228#post4605228


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Been waiting for this


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Cool! Could you post some beamshots?


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Toohotruk said:


> Cool! Could you post some beamshots?



I'll see what I can do, need to find the camera.


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Toohotruk said:


> Cool! Could you post some beamshots?


Beamshots here...
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?397514-P2X-Direct-Drive-Mod&p=4605612#post4605612


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Just spotted this on the Surefire site.....
http://www.surefire.com/flashlight-head-warning
what are we like?


----------



## precisionworks

peter yetman said:


> Just spotted this on the Surefire site.....
> http://www.surefire.com/flashlight-head-warning
> what are we like?



SF posted that on their website some time back. Some heads unscrew with nothing more than firm hand pressure but others are permanently glued on. Luck of the draw.



> WTB Busted P2X / P3X head for mods.



SF likely has dozens they got from people who used Channel Lock pliers ...


----------



## BloodCleanSoul

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Anyone had any issues with a parasitic drain when not being used? I had mine sitting in my car for the past five months with two brand new SF batteries in it, only used it for ten mins or less and when I turned it on today it was near dead. (Low only) 

Thoughts? Normal or broken? I know I can use the lockout feature but would prefer not to.


----------



## 880arm

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

When the tailcap switch is off on the Fury, it's an open circuit. Parasitic drain due to the electronics in the light should be impossible. Assuming there is no issue with the batteries, I can only think of two possibilities.

1) Somehow the switch is not opening completely when "off". I can't remember hearing of this with a SF tailcap but it would be easy to test by measuring resistance of the tailcap when the switch is off.

2) The light is momentarily bumped on due to shifting around in storage (repeatedly). I've had this happen with the G2X in my console if I don't lock out the tailcap.


----------



## pjandyho

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

The other possible reason would be a faulty batch of batteries. I once received a batch of problematic SF batteries. On a few occasions one of them would occasionally discharge in the light till near depleted while the other one would show a full charge. Check the voltage on the batteries.


----------



## BloodCleanSoul

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Hmm... I don't have the means of testing the tail. It might be from bumping against the console like you mentioned. I'll try putting it in a holster in the console.


----------



## mIRRORMERE

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Just purchased a G2X LE (500 then 15 lumen selection) and a single output P2ZX Fury....can't wait to see them in action


----------



## Slumber

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



mIRRORMERE said:


> Just purchased a G2X LE (500 then 15 lumen selection) and a single output P2ZX Fury....can't wait to see them in action



I thought the G2X LE had a high output of 400 lumens. Did they change the specs?


----------



## mrm65

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Hi,

I'm looking to replace the tailcap switch on my P2X tactical, don't like it. What would be the model number for the Surfire forward clicky for this light?
Any other options?

Thanks for any advice.


----------



## pjandyho

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I doubt the switch is sold separately. Why not contact Surefire and see if they could help you?


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



mrm65 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm looking to replace the tailcap switch on my P2X tactical, don't like it. What would be the model number for the Surfire forward clicky for this light?


SF has no model numbers AFAIK for the OEM tail caps.



> Any other options?


IMO the best SF clicky is the Z59, about $35 online. http://www.surefire.com/click-on-lock-out-tailcap-z59.html


----------



## mrm65

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



precisionworks said:


> SF has no model numbers AFAIK for the OEM tail caps.
> 
> IMO the best SF clicky is the Z59, about $35 online. http://www.surefire.com/click-on-lock-out-tailcap-z59.html



Ahh..Z59, thats what I was looking for.

Thanks for your help


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

If you want to keep the same tailcap, you could put a McClicky in. They have them at Oveready.
P


----------



## mrm65

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



peter yetman said:


> If you want to keep the same tailcap, you could put a McClicky in. They have them at Oveready.
> P



I don't like the tailcap, its as bad as the one on the Maelstrom S12. Seen the McClicky, will try and get one of the Z59'S though..everythings so damn expensive over here ..lol


----------



## cland72

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



precisionworks said:


> IMO the best SF clicky is the Z59, about $35 online. http://www.surefire.com/click-on-lock-out-tailcap-z59.html



Agreed. The Z59 has a better feeling click than a McClicky, in my opinion. Break out your pitchforks


----------



## archimedes

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



cland72 said:


> Agreed. The Z59 has a better feeling click than a McClicky, in my opinion....



I tend to agree, but I think the McClicky has a higher amperage rating (IIRC) ....


----------



## cland72

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



archimedes said:


> I tend to agree, but I think the McClicky has a higher amperage rating (IIRC) ....



Right, good point. Fortunately I don't run any high draw drop ins or hotwires that require the McClicky's 5A rating. I think the Z59 is rated to 2A, if I remember correctly.


----------



## recDNA

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I like the Z59 also. Really nice feel and I've never had one burn out and I do use a 3 amp drop in.


----------



## 880arm

Looks like it's time for an updated thread title. After showing "600 lumen" versions of the Fury in their catalogs for the past few years, the full lineup has finally made it onto the SureFire website. The model numbers have not been updated yet but the product listings reflect the 600 lumen rating. 

Also, in line with what was shown in the 2015 SureFire catalog, the product page for the P2X Tactical states it comes with a "clicky" tailcap rather than the push/twist tactical style tailcap.


----------



## 880arm

I ordered a new P2X Fury from SureFire once I saw the "600 lumen" versions on their website. It came in today and looks a little different than my old Fury :twothumbs


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

A Fury with knurling - say it ain't so [emoji1]


----------



## Slumber

*The SureFire P2X-B &quot;Fury&quot; 500lu flashlight thread*



880arm said:


> I ordered a new P2X Fury from SureFire once I saw the "600 lumen" versions on their website. It came in today and looks a little different than my old Fury :twothumbs



Holy smokes! That looks clean! XM-L2?


----------



## mckeand13

880arm said:


> I ordered a new P2X Fury from SureFire once I saw the "600 lumen" versions on their website. It came in today and looks a little different than my old Fury :twothumbs



880arm,

Just curious as to why you bought a Fury when the Peacekeeper is almost the same thing with 18650 capability?

I thought the Fury would be dropped from the lineup at some point because the two overlap so much.


----------



## scout24

Wow, a return to the knurling we know and love? Cool.  Thoughts? Impressions? XM-L2? Tint?


----------



## uofaengr

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I love the Fury. I was considering running 16650s in mine and was wondering if anyone here has done the same? Curious about the output and runtime with these.


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



uofaengr said:


> I love the Fury. I was considering running 16650s in mine and was wondering if anyone here has done the same? Curious about the output and runtime with these.



I've run my Fury on 16650s for a few months now...seems to be every bit as bright as on 123s, and great runtime. I read somewhere on here that someone did a run time test with 16650s and it got better runtime than it does with 123s.


----------



## uofaengr

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Toohotruk said:


> I've run my Fury on 16650s for a few months now...seems to be every bit as bright as on 123s, and great runtime. I read somewhere on here that someone did a run time test with 16650s and it got better runtime than it does with 123s.


Thanks! Exactly what I wanted to hear.


----------



## Dave D

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

It now has an anti-roll ring on the head, in addition to the knurling on the body, I didn't see that coming!


----------



## pjandyho

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

It is real sweet. Knurling and anti-roll bezel. Hope the tint is not greenish on this one? By the way, is it me or did you guys notice the bezel kind of looks thinner now?


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I agree the bezel looks thinner,but I have had my fury apart. Anything is an upgrade compared to the original. It's good and sturdy yes, but the original bezel itself feels like tin metal. Extremely thin.
It looks thick, but it's really thin.


----------



## pjandyho

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



dansciurus said:


> I agree the bezel looks thinner,but I have had my fury apart. Anything is an upgrade compared to the original. It's good and sturdy yes, but the original bezel itself feels like tin metal. Extremely thin.
> It looks thick, but it's really thin.


Thanks! I like my Fury but I think I am going to love the newer Fury. I just hope the tint is going to be as white as my current Fury.


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



uofaengr said:


> Thanks! Exactly what I wanted to hear.



You'll have to post your thoughts on the 16650s when you get them...I'm sure you won't be disappointed. 

:welcome:


----------



## scout24

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Well, I'll answer a few of my own questions.  The new knurling is fantastic, seems just as grippy as our classic SF's. It is an XM-L2. Beam seems broad and smooth, it's mid day here so no real idea of tint. I'll try to walk my dog late enough tonight to play a bit. Head comes right off by the way. There is a hint of red locktite, but my teenaged stepdaughter could have loosened it by hand. 16650 fits and runs fine, as stated brightness seems identical. The brass contact star between the body and head seems a bit odd, but I'm sure it serves a purpose. The body should be easy to bore, not sure yet if I'll go that route. All in all, so far so good.


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Bearing in mind the flimsy construction of the mating between the driver board and the LED star, I reckon you got lucky with the loose head. I really don't think they want us to open them. Get it bored, so much better.
P


----------



## uofaengr

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Toohotruk said:


> You'll have to post your thoughts on the 16650s when you get them...I'm sure you won't be disappointed.
> 
> :welcome:





scout24 said:


> Well, I'll answer a few of my own questions.  The new knurling is fantastic, seems just as grippy as our classic SF's. It is an XM-L2. Beam seems broad and smooth, it's mid day here so no real idea of tint. I'll try to walk my dog late enough tonight to play a bit. Head comes right off by the way. There is a hint of red locktite, but my teenaged stepdaughter could have loosened it by hand. 16650 fits and runs fine, as stated brightness seems identical. The brass contact star between the body and head seems a bit odd, but I'm sure it serves a purpose. The body should be easy to bore, not sure yet if I'll go that route. All in all, so far so good.


With the 16650s were you able to get the full 4.35v out of them? Pretty sure my Nitecore D4 will terminate these at 4.2v. Was curious about if the loss in capacity is a big deal or very noticeable.


----------



## scout24

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I charge mine to 4.20, just got the light so no runtime test done yet. I am not buying a new charger just for one type of cell. More about the guilt free dog walk than needing every minute of runtime possible. If I decide to bore for 18650, it's a moot point...  I hate rattle, so an Oveready sleeve would be needed for primaries.


----------



## uofaengr

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



scout24 said:


> I charge mine to 4.20, just got the light so no runtime test done yet. I am not buying a new charger just for one type of cell. More about the guilt free dog walk than needing every minute of runtime possible. If I decide to bore for 18650, it's a moot point...  I hate rattle, so an Oveready sleeve would be needed for primaries.


Who does boring around here and for what cost? 

I definitely want to get away from 123 primaries as I totally burned through a 12 box of Surefires last summer in a few weeks. It's made me reluctant to pull out the Surefires as much when this time of year, the Fury is very nice to take out on the lake at night.


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



uofaengr said:


> Who does boring around here and for what cost?
> 
> I definitely want to get away from 123 primaries as I totally burned through a 12 box of Surefires last summer in a few weeks. It's made me reluctant to pull out the Surefires as much when this time of year, the Fury is very nice to take out on the lake at night.



Not too much....
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ezel-Tailcap-Options-%28P-C-Z-and-M-Series%29


----------



## Slumber

*The SureFire P2X-B &quot;Fury&quot; 500lu flashlight thread*



uofaengr said:


> Who does boring around here and for what cost?
> 
> I definitely want to get away from 123 primaries as I totally burned through a 12 box of Surefires last summer in a few weeks. It's made me reluctant to pull out the Surefires as much when this time of year, the Fury is very nice to take out on the lake at night.



Have you considered the P1R Peacekeeper? If you plan to bore, the added cost of doing so will put the total cost of the Fury in the same ballpark as a P1R.

Edit: I just realized you already own a Fury. 16650's run fine in it. When I owned my Fury, that's all I ran. Output and runtime seemed equal to 2xCR123's. You won't notice the capacity loss due to charging to 4.2 vs 4.35. With the Keeppower's, I believe the PCB won't allow the battery to charge that high anyway. You could get unprotected batteries and use something like an Xtar VP2 to get them to 4.35, but if you already own another charger, it's not worth purchasing a whole new setup for the minimal gain in mah.


----------



## uofaengr

*Re: The SureFire P2X-B &quot;Fury&quot; 500lu flashlight thread*



Slumber Pass said:


> Have you considered the P1R Peacekeeper? If you plan to bore, the added cost of doing so will put the total cost of the Fury in the same ballpark as a P1R.


The cheapest I've seen the Peacekeeper is $200 which includes a charger I don't need. Don't know if the light is sold by itself anywhere. The Fury can be had for $108 plus $28 to bore and ship would be $140-ish.

Regardless, the light was a gift so I actually have zero invested in it. Boring I suppose would prevent me from having to get another type of battery (16650) and just have the 18650s for future CR type lights although I still cannot find anywhere if 16650s will work in a Lumamax also (justifying investing in 16650s) and I don't think the LX2 can be bored. Sorry if I got too wordy there.


----------



## uofaengr

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



peter yetman said:


> Not too much....
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ezel-Tailcap-Options-%28P-C-Z-and-M-Series%29


Thanks for the help! [emoji106]


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



uofaengr said:


> With the 16650s were you able to get the full 4.35v out of them? Pretty sure my Nitecore D4 will terminate these at 4.2v. Was curious about if the loss in capacity is a big deal or very noticeable.



I only charge mine to 4.2v...I use a Pila charger and I don't think there is any other option with that charger. I rarely run mine clear down, so it's not really an issue for me, but I do know there is a noticeable difference in runtime compared with 17670s. Seems like I used to run the 17670s down to the point the light would dim fairly often, but that hasn't happened with the 16650s, even though I have run it for longer periods of time. 

It is so nice to have a light as bright as the Fury and know I have full runtime ahead of me every time I leave the house, rather than guessing at how much juice I have left in the 123s. The Fury and the 16650s were made for each other IMO. Surefire should make them an official option in a lot of their 2X123 lights.


----------



## scout24

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Fiddled a bit with the new Fury after dinner. An Oveready Triad tailcap looks and works like it was made for the Fury. Maybe I'm just spoiled by the McClicky switch, but it has a better feel to me than the stocker. Tailstands now, too.  As was pointed out earlier, the leading edge of the bezel does not appear to be where you would want impact. I like the older Z44 bezel with replaceable bezel ring better. That said, the Fury is definitely more of a thrower with the bigger head. More defined hotspot with more intensity than my C2 with an XM-L2 dropin. The spill area appears similar but not as bright as the C2. Both have similar OP reflectors.


----------



## BloodCleanSoul

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Are you guys ordering directly from SF or do other dealers have the newer style? Are they out there for about the same price (~$100) as the older ones?


----------



## scout24

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Mine was straight from SF with a discount coupon. Still more than the older style, but for me it was about the hex head and the knurling. I would have paid the same for the 500lm version to have these features. Just walked my pup, it's great outdoors away from the white wall. There is a slight warmish ring around the hotspot on the wall, more pronounced on low, that disappears in real use.


----------



## uofaengr

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Toohotruk said:


> I only charge mine to 4.2v...I use a Pila charger and I don't think there is any other option with that charger. I rarely run mine clear down, so it's not really an issue for me, but I do know there is a noticeable difference in runtime compared with 17670s. Seems like I used to run the 17670s down to the point the light would dim fairly often, but that hasn't happened with the 16650s, even though I have run it for longer periods of time.
> 
> It is so nice to have a light as bright as the Fury and know I have full runtime ahead of me every time I leave the house, rather than guessing at how much juice I have left in the 123s. The Fury and the 16650s were made for each other IMO. Surefire should make them an official option in a lot of their 2X123 lights.


I've some 16650s on the way to me now, and hope to give them a good workout over the 4th of July weekend. Very excited.


----------



## RobertMM

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

You'll be happ with those 16650s, uofaengr.
they fit the LX2 as well, I use them on my C2, G2L and LX2 Lumamax.


----------



## uofaengr

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



RobertMM said:


> You'll be happ with those 16650s, uofaengr.
> they fit the LX2 as well, I use them on my C2, G2L and LX2 Lumamax.


Received my protected Keeppower 16650s today. They do NOT fit in my LX2. I was surprised and bummed about that. Fit fine in my Fury. Just gotta charge them up.


----------



## mk2rocco

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Updated Fury, not sure if this is news...

http://www.surefire.com/illumination/flashlights/p2x-fury-1057.html


----------



## pjandyho

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Thanks for sharing but it's not news. I hope they roll more of this into production.


----------



## mk2rocco

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I'm really happy to see them getting away from the smooth body with grooves.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



mk2rocco said:


> I'm really happy to see them getting away from the smooth body with grooves.



Crazy. It looks like the same specs but they addressed all the complaints on CPF. Nice looking light. ( FYI the 500 lumen Fury has been an unlisted 600 for about a year now ).


----------



## Slumber

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

880arm and Scout24 received this new body style a few months ago. Other than that, they haven't been spotted in the wild or talked about much. 
The X300 Ultra has also been bumped up to 600 lumens along with a new mounting system.


----------



## Skaaphaas

Wow. 49 pages dedicated to my light. Took me a while to read it all!

I have the previous gen Fury, with glass window. It dropped on the bezel and chipped the glass, and it took me 6 months to get that fixed.

While I appreciate the warranty, I don't want to go through the trouble again if I can avoid it. 

I was thinking of using vulcanizing tape around the bezel as a shock-absorbing material. A few turns of that should just give that slight bit of extra padding to prevent the glass from chipping again. 

But while reading this thread it got me wondering about heat dissipation issues. If I do only the top part of the bezel, at the point of and in front of the window, am I running a risk of insufficient heat dissipation, or am I overly worried?

I was actually thinking of using the stuff all over the light to improve grip but decided against it. 

What say you? Good idea, bad idea?


----------



## Skaaphaas




----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I would think you would be ok with just that part of the bezel covered...and if you primarily hold the light in your hand, that will transfer a lot of heat away from the light anyway.


----------



## recDNA

Skaaphaas said:


> Wow. 49 pages dedicated to my light. Took me a while to read it all!
> 
> I have the previous gen Fury, with glass window. It dropped on the bezel and chipped the glass, and it took me 6 months to get that fixed.
> 
> While I appreciate the warranty, I don't want to go through the trouble again if I can avoid it.
> 
> I was thinking of using vulcanizing tape around the bezel as a shock-absorbing material. A few turns of that should just give that slight bit of extra padding to prevent the glass from chipping again.
> 
> But while reading this thread it got me wondering about heat dissipation issues. If I do only the top part of the bezel, at the point of and in front of the window, am I running a risk of insufficient heat dissipation, or am I overly worried?
> 
> I was actually thinking of using the stuff all over the light to improve grip but decided against it.
> 
> What say you? Good idea, bad idea?


I'm not familiar with vulcanizing tape. I just wonder if the heat will cause glue to seep out as with normal electrical tape?


----------



## Skaaphaas

recDNA said:


> I'm not familiar with vulcanizing tape. I just wonder if the heat will cause glue to seep out as with normal electrical tape?


Luckily not. It's a rubbery tape that's not sticky or tacky. Won't stick to anything but itself. It fuses with itself in much the same way that patches used to fix holes in bicycle tubes fuses with the tube.


----------



## uofaengr

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Curious if anyone here has had this light tested in a sphere? Mine just seems a lot brighter than 15 and 500 lumens. Out of all the light reviews out there, it seems it's always harder to find testing of Surefires.


----------



## dpadams6

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



uofaengr said:


> Curious if anyone here has had this light tested in a sphere? Mine just seems a lot brighter than 15 and 500 lumens. Out of all the light reviews out there, it seems it's always harder to find testing of Surefires.



Agreed. Mine on 500 seems as bright as some of my lights that are 1000


----------



## uofaengr

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Feel my LX2 is brighter also than 200 lumens. For the P2X I'd say an easy 700-800 lumens is how it appears to me, and that's with a 16650. Maybe a little brighter with 2 CR123s. I know cooler tints will appear brighter, but really did almost look the same brightness as a TN12 on turbo. The P2X has a beautiful beam profile though at distance.


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

It would be interesting to find out what the actual lumen output of all versions of the fury. Surefire is well known for understating output of their lights, so I wouldn't be surprised if they underrated the Fury. 

It's definitely my favorite "outside" light and really comes in handy at my girlfriend's farm at night...it has enough throw to spot animals in the fields a couple hundred yards away and has great spill that lights up the whole area nearby as well.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Toohotruk said:


> It would be interesting to find out what the actual lumen output of all versions of the fury. Surefire is well known for understating output of their lights, so I wouldn't be surprised if they underrated the Fury.
> 
> It's definitely my favorite "outside" light and really comes in handy at my girlfriend's farm at night...it has enough throw to spot animals in the fields a couple hundred yards away and has great spill that lights up the whole area nearby as well.



My SF thoughts are likely already known. But I think the Fury is a beacon of the current SF line up ( including the G2X / 6PX ). Reliable, well built, decent runtimes and price..ect.

On the output, I gather initially it was around 500 at first with an unsolicited 600 coming in around a year later. One thing to note: the now "old" P2X & P3X are the same head.... saves on production costs with an $86 markup on 1" worth of aluminum. If they had dedicated heads, I would think you would get exceptional runtimes out of the 600 model. It will likely be the same on the new heads...?

Either way, G2X 6PX & Fury would be the only SF lights I recommend based on _my_ experience.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Reviews!!!! Pics!!!!

Has SF made a turn toward their full former glory starting with the new Fury lineup? These look great and it's pretty obvious they took consideration to CPF feedback not only on the design but the price point as well. The people want to know more!


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

How is _Forrest_ the only that appears to be interested!?

Lets see what you got SF. Make me eat my hat. They got knurling folks! Where'd everyone go?


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I'd be a lot more excited about it if I could justify buying another expensive light, when the Fury I have does what I need it to do. Maybe I'll get one at some point when the price drops a bit, or maybe a used one off the Marketplace, when they start showing up on there.

As for everyone else, CPF seems to have changed...I've noticed lately that people on here don't seem to get quite as excited as they used to about new lights. Back in the day, as soon as a new light hit the streets, you'd be sure to find a review posted the next day, or at least within a couple of days, but not anymore. It's like when I was asking about the new version of the copper Maratac CR123 light and whether it had PWM or not and nobody would, or could tell me if it had it, or if it had constant current regulation, weeks after the thing was available for purchase! WTF?! And I knew that people on that very thread had bought one or more of them, because they had pictures posted of their new lights. I wound up just buying one and posted that information myself...and I even searched a few different times for reviews on that light for a couple of weeks, but nada. 

Maybe it's just me, but CPF seems to have lost that old excitement (and maybe knowledge about lights?)...and I have too, I must admit. I have so many nice lights, that I just duck in here every now and then to see what's going on, rather than checking in a few times a day.


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Good post.

Very interesting insight. I think you may be on to something. I mean really, what could possibly come out that we haven't seen in one form or another? 

McGizmo / Malkoff / HDS / SPY 007...... a million more lights I missed, just my favorites.... What could possibly be cooler than a SPY 007!? You could mount a Malkoff on a tank........ Dial in the exact amount of light with an HDS.....then remodel a brick wall with it......McGizmo.......an ode to modern (future?) art.....many Gizz models have been out _years_ and they _still_ look like there from the future...not to mention the dead reliable engineering and amazing beams....

I mean heck....Olight is getting 500 lumens out of something smaller than my thumb!!! David Chow flashlight celebrity...... If I taped 1 on the back of each finger...thats 5,000 lumens for both hands....I'd be like an Edward Saberhands! ( Winona, Im still in love with you, did you get my letter? Call me! )

I think we reached the outer limits of the flashlight universe! What could possibly come next? 


Now someone review this thing and get some pics up! Thanks!


----------



## pjandyho

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

First off, I am starting to get bored with flashlights. Nothing here seems to excite me as much as they do in the old days. Now it seems like everyone is copying everyone's ideas but I don't blame the manufacturers. How much more innovation can one get out of a flashlight? China is playing the lumen game and US is playing the durability card. When you reach higher lumen outputs, any increase in lumens just seems so incremental and nothing seems to wow me now. When you have some really durable and reliable lights, they work so well I have no need for more. Unfortunately you can't have it all. You can't push the LED hard for extra brightness without a compromise on lifespan of the light or for practical run time. 

With Surefire they have been going down the slope as far as I am concerned. Time after time of receiving greenish looking tints and lights exhibiting minor issues like flickering and whatnot has caused me to shy away from Surefire. I was a fanboy but now I avoid their products if I have to. I just bought myself a Titan Plus and though I love the overall build and beam profile, the greenish tint is kind of disappointing. I like the Titan Plus but it will never be my favorite. I have had more success with tints coming from Chinese manufacturers than I have with US manufacturers but maybe that's just me.

For the Fury, I love mine and I am lucky to have gotten one with an almost creamy white tint but I have seen so many examples of Fury with a greenish tint. Yucks! They may provide knurling on the newer models but they are not getting my money until they admit that greenish tint is ugly and make a change.

My current favorite now is my HDS High CRI rotary and the Eagletac DX30LC2 with a 4000K XP-L HI emitter, and they are the ones in my pocket everyday.


----------



## newbie66

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

My confidence in SureFire for quality has eroded as well. The only SureFire I have is the G2X Pro(320lumens of beautiful tint) and Titan-A(failed within the first day, got it replaced). I am now waiting for my Zebralight SC5(which produces 500 lumens on a single eneloop) that will become my new favourite.


----------



## etc

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I seriously contemplated getting one but am backing out because I don't care for the automatic input lowering after 2.5 minutes. I would rather just have a constant 400-500 lumens without dimming and enjoy the greater runtime. 

I am waiting for the SF to introduce a G3X Pro, same concept, and the plastic lense does not break.


----------



## Slumber

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I'll probably pick up a knurled Fury at some point. I like to keep it simple and Surefire's one or two mode lights work for me.


----------



## jodoma

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Here's my new knurled Fury. Already marked up a bit. Hate that but knew it was coming. Want to get it bored for 18650 asap. This is the single output with clicky.


----------



## knucklehead726

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Speaking of knurling check out the pr1 Peacemaker. Has 18650 with the light and a charger. And goes on high first then low. 202.00 del. 600lms


----------



## ForrestChump

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

All interesting points and thanks for the pic. Personally I liked the old design, if they could of just beefed the lens area up ( that is a crash bezel per SF ) and knurled the bonkers out of it I think they would have a great looking light. This ones OK, but from the pic it looks a bit...... clumsy? Usually it takes time to warm up to. That said, I got a mint condition open box G2.... the real deal.....$30 and a Malkoff incoming....scored the G2 at the army surplus ( what the hell makes ammo boxes smell like that!? ) I was surprised by how much I liked the incandescent.... Maybe I'll just run a set of cells through it and spend some time with it before the Malkoff comes.. how long do the bulbs last?


----------



## jodoma

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



knucklehead726 said:


> Speaking of knurling check out the pr1 Peacemaker. Has 18650 with the light and a charger. And goes on high first then low. 202.00 del. 600lms



Almost went with one of those but the single output one didn't have a clicky-so I went with the fury which has a nice clicky.


----------



## Jackyl

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

What emitter do these "new" 600l models have in them?


----------



## Slumber

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Jackyl said:


> What emitter do these "new" 600l models have in them?



It looks like an XM-L2. 




I scooped this one up in the CPF Mall from Scout and it's a nice update to the old Fury models. I REALLY like it.


----------



## Skaaphaas

Slumber Pass said:


> It looks like an XM-L2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I scooped this one up in the CPF Mall from Scout and it's a nice update to the old Fury models. I REALLY like it.


Does the low mode also have a green tint? With the white board of the LED it seems like it shouldn't?


----------



## Slumber

Skaaphaas said:


> Does the low mode also have a green tint? With the white board of the LED it seems like it shouldn't?



I've gotten so accustomed to green tints on low with my other Surefire's, that it's hard for me to notice it. This one looks more neutral to me, with maybe a touch of yellow/green in the corona.


----------



## Skaaphaas

Slumber Pass said:


> I've gotten so accustomed to green tints on low with my other Surefire's, that it's hard for me to notice it. This one looks more neutral to me, with maybe a touch of yellow/green in the corona.



Thanks. I have the older version P2X, and the low tint is very green. I remember someone posting here that it might be a reflection of the green board that the LED sits on.


----------



## sticks96

I had a fella I work with add some knurling to my Fury and WOW what a difference it made in actually being able to hang onto this light!!


----------



## Bogie

*The SureFire P2X-B &quot;Fury&quot; 500lu flashlight thread*

Anyone know if SF changed the color on the Fury ? Just got a replacement tailcap for my P2X Defender and its matte black not the gloss black my light is.

Not a major difference the light is a user and I know SF warranty is functionality not looks. But just wondering if I got the wrong unit.


----------



## DRoc

*Re: The SureFire P2X-B &quot;Fury&quot; 500lu flashlight thread*

I don't recall there being more than one option. My P2X Fury Defender was purchased when it was first released, and it's matte. Maybe it's just a variation in finish. Surefire finishes have always varied.


----------



## Bogie

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

My fury matches my e2dl has a shine to it. 





New tail is flat black


----------



## etc

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

How many amps does the 600 lumen draw? Possible to post pics versus G2x Pro 320 lumen edition?


----------



## Crazyeddiethefirst

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Any interest is selling one of the tailcaps? I have a G2X that has a cheep imitation I would like to replace with a McClicky. Sorry to go off topic....


----------



## Johan ES

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Does anyone know if the P2X Fury can use the original Surefire 18650 battery that is supplied with the P1R?


----------



## Robin24k

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Johan ES said:


> Does anyone know if the P2X Fury can use the original Surefire 18650 battery that is supplied with the P1R?


Not without modification.


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Johan ES said:


> Does anyone know if the P2X Fury can use the original Surefire 18650 battery that is supplied with the P1R?



Not unless the P2X is bored for 18650. The inside diameter of the P1R is around 19.00 mm, about the same as a bored P2X. Every machinist seems to use a different bore size for the P2X (and other full size Surefires) but they all run in the range of 18.75 mm to 19.00 mm.

Standard Surefire's run about 17.20 mm so there's no way they'll accept an 18650.


----------



## Johan ES

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Thanks!

Unfortunately the P1R Tactical has the press for momentary-on, twist for constant on switch. I would like a SureFire light with at least 500 lumen single-output with a tactical tailcap click switch and 18650 capability.


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Delete please


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Johan ES said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Unfortunately the P1R Tactical has the press for momentary-on, twist for constant on switch. I would like a SureFire light with at least 500 lumen single-output with a tactical tailcap click switch and 18650 capability.



Not hard to do what you want. Buy the P1R, remove the twist tail cap & install a Surefire Z59. They're becoming hard to get so you might want to pick up two.

http://www.skdtac.com/SureFire-Z58-Z59-Clickon-Tailcap-p/sur.151.htm


----------



## Slumber

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Johan ES said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Unfortunately the P1R Tactical has the press for momentary-on, twist for constant on switch. I would like a SureFire light with at least 500 lumen single-output with a tactical tailcap click switch and 18650 capability.



I'm pretty sure a McClickie switch can be easily installed in the tail cap of the P1R.


----------



## Johan ES

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Slumber Pass said:


> I'm pretty sure a McClickie switch can be easily installed in the tail cap of the P1R.


If that is true I think we have a winner  I am just hoping that someone can confirm this.


----------



## AZPops

*Re: Front/head, & Rear/tail cap, o-ring sizes?*

Hey guys, gals. Need some help. Been trying to get through (without success) to Surefire's Warranty Dept. (dept. I was directed to by Suefire's operator) to purchase two sets of o-rings (front/head, and rear/tail cap) for my Fury's. I waited, or was on hold fur 30 plus minutes, then hung up. Second time 10 plus minutes, then gave up. ... 

Does anyone know the sizes of the front and rear o-rings in a Fury? I figure, it'd be faster to find it elsewhere, and buy'um.


Thanks in advance.

Pops

Edit: got hold of Surefire, so all's good! ... :thumbsup:


----------



## etc

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

How does the runtime on "high" compare to runtime of G2X Pro on high? The 320 lumen version.


----------



## DRoc

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Are the P2X threads and 6PX threads compatible? Same threads, same O-Ring?


----------



## dansciurus

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Tailcaps yes heads no


----------



## Swedpat

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



etc said:


> How does the runtime on "high" compare to runtime of G2X Pro on high? The 320 lumen version.



Roughly spoken G2X has 30 min longer runtime and with more stable brightness. So P2X has not as much better performance as one could think based on the specs.


----------



## etc

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

thanks for the review


----------



## nitebrite

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I was wondering if this is their usual upgrade of specs and not components. Meaning the 500LU is actually the same thing as the 600LU model. Just that as usual the 500LU was way underrated? I assume they both have an XM-L2? Or am I wrong and the ratings are actually accurate? Or the 600 is closer to 700 lol?

As I thought. Both have XM-L2 and beamshots look pretty equal. Upgrade in specs to reflect the real ability as usual?


----------



## WarriorOfLight

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

The early Furies in 2012 had an XM-L LED. Later when the XM-L2 became available the emitter was upgraded by Surefire, but the specification still remains at 500 Lumens.


----------



## nitebrite

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I know, but wouldn't the 500LU with an XM-L2 actually be putting out the 600LU? The current ones are 600LU of course. It should be the same if it is one of the 500's with the XM-L2? Also the Scout had put out 600LU with an XM-L in 2014. So I am confused. I am sure as usual with them the 500LU is way underrated. Perhaps the 600LU is also much more than 600LU or it is the same. I have no idea. Often they just upgrade "specs" and not actual components. Since they are so underrated to begin with.

Actually, a XM-L t2(first bin) can put out well over 600LU at 3000MA. I am sure the 500 is underrated as they usually do. However that begs the question what is the 600LU really putting out.


----------



## BugoutBoys

*Re: Surefire Fury*



jh333233 said:


> Impossible for 18650,
> SF intended to let people using CR123a lithium only
> IPX8, well actually the lights are capable of it but due to surefire's warranty policy, it would be an expensive bill for them to pay for water-damage


A friend of mine broke his in the water and they replaced it free


----------



## BugoutBoys

*Re: Surefire Fury*

SO I successfully removed the head of my P2X! Now how to I remove the rest so I can change the emitter? :sick2:


----------



## mckeand13

*Re: Surefire Fury*



BugoutBoys said:


> SO I successfully removed the head of my P2X! Now how to I remove the rest so I can change the emitter? :sick2:



Its been a while since I had mine apart, but I remember the LeD being board mounted with a lot of other components. If you hear it up enough to remove the LED, all of the other components will be floating too. Not good. 

Knowing that, I'd say there's no easy way to swap emitters.


----------



## Dave D

*Re: Surefire Fury*

I removed the head on mine to bore the body for a 18650 and the circuit board pulls out, you'll have to remove the lens and reflector to get to the LED.







The two tubes make the contact with the LED board.


----------



## BugoutBoys

*Re: Surefire Fury*



Dave D said:


> I removed the head on mine to bore the body for a 18650 and the circuit board pulls out, you'll have to remove the lens and reflector to get to the LED.
> 
> The two tubes make the contact with the LED board.



Thanks for the help! Do you know how to remove the bezel ring/reflector? It looks like it has glue. Maybe if I heat it?


----------



## peter yetman

*Re: Surefire Fury*

I used a blow torch to melt the glue. You have to be a careful, as too much heat will change to colour of the ano. You'll need to reflow the Led as the MCPB has gold pins attached to connect to the tubes on the driver board. The tubes on the board are very fragile and reconnecting them is a complete S*D. I've just put a dedomed XPL into a P2X and the throw is outstanding. I have little confidence in the link between the MCPB and the driver and I'm running it Direct Drive. The heatsinking is very good and the light runs really well. Not too hot to hold, unlike the Nichia 219c that I tried.
P


----------



## BugoutBoys

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Bleh. I just really want to change the tint. It's a disgusting green.


----------



## RobertMM

*Re: Surefire Fury*



Dave D said:


> I removed the head on mine to bore the body for a 18650 and the circuit board pulls out, you'll have to remove the lens and reflector to get to the LED.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two tubes make the contact with the LED board.



Is it just me or is that finished board covered with some sort of translucent coating/adhesive?


----------



## BugoutBoys

*Re: Surefire Fury*



RobertMM said:


> Is it just me or is that finished board covered with some sort of translucent coating/adhesive?


Yes, the electronics are potted. It seals them and makes it less likely to break


----------



## BugoutBoys

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Is there anyone on the forums who would swap the P2X LED for me?


----------



## mckeand13

*Re: Surefire Fury*



RobertMM said:


> Is it just me or is that finished board covered with some sort of translucent coating/adhesive?



It's called conformal coating.


----------



## BugoutBoys

*Re: Surefire Fury*

Doesn't anyone have experience submersing their P2X?


----------



## Bogie

*Re: Surefire Fury*

I EDC mine as a fireman so it gets pretty wet at times without issue but not submerged to my knowledge


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I don't think I've submerged my Fury (dropped it quite a few times though), but I accidentally ran my yellow G2X through a complete wash cycle with my clothes without a drop of water getting inside the light.


----------



## RobertMM

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Toohotruk said:


> I don't think I've submerged my Fury (dropped it quite a few times though), but I accidentally ran my yellow G2X through a complete wash cycle with my clothes without a drop of water getting inside the light.



Damn. Well, no reason why the Fury would not be as watertight, AFAIK the aluminum models seal better at the tailcap Oring than the Nitrolon based on user experiences here.


----------



## BugoutBoys

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Toohotruk said:


> I don't think I've submerged my Fury (dropped it quite a few times though), but I accidentally ran my yellow G2X through a complete wash cycle with my clothes without a drop of water getting inside the light.


DANG that's a lot of pressure... that's awesome


----------



## BugoutBoys

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I got one of the new bodied furies. Came with a marvelous tint a little bit on the cool side but pretty much perfect white. It's amazing, I like the look of the old body more but this feels a lot more secure with the knurling


----------



## Bogie

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Can anyone recommend a good holster for a fury looking for a bezel up unit. The SF ones have been wearing out on me rather quickly (Velcro not holding, getting loose on the light) thinking kydex.


----------



## BugoutBoys

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Bogie said:


> Can anyone recommend a good holster for a fury looking for a bezel up unit. The SF ones have been wearing out on me rather quickly (Velcro not holding, getting loose on the light) thinking kydex.


There are some great ones! Look at the V70. I had it for my fury but I prefer the Nylon ones. The V70 is a hard polymer with a metal retention spring inside so you put the light in (Bezel up) and it just clips in and holds it very securely! It's quick and easy to pull out too though. I would highly recommend it.


----------



## Dave D

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Bogie said:


> Can anyone recommend a good holster for a fury looking for a bezel up unit. The SF ones have been wearing out on me rather quickly (Velcro not holding, getting loose on the light) thinking kydex.



Kytex Shooting Gear do a holster suitable for Surefire 1" diameter bodied lights.


----------



## Slumber

*The SureFire P2X-B &quot;Fury&quot; 500lu flashlight thread*



Bogie said:


> Can anyone recommend a good holster for a fury looking for a bezel up unit. The SF ones have been wearing out on me rather quickly (Velcro not holding, getting loose on the light) thinking kydex.



Forcetech.biz


----------



## BugoutBoys

Toohotruk said:


> Mine is from the first run too and does not have a spring. That's the only thing I don't like about it...it hasn't been a problem, but I would rather have a spring too.
> 
> I can't speak for the newer Furys.




The XM-L2 (updated old body) Furys have dual springs and so do the new body Furys


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Wish my Fury had two springs, but I haven't had a problem either...it's even been dropped multiple times and I've had no problems. Maybe if it was mounted to a gun it would be an issue though.


----------



## BugoutBoys

*Re: Surefire Fury*

I just wanted to let everyone here know that I absolutely love my Fury. I tried out ElZetta and it made me love my Fury even more. It's literally the perfect flashlight for my needs. If anyone is hesitating to get one, don't. It's wonderfully wonderful.


----------



## mk2rocco

*Re: The SureFire P2X-B &quot;Fury&quot; 500lu flashlight thread*



Slumber Pass said:


> Forcetech.biz


I highly recommend this company. I got an HDS holster from them that was fantastic.


----------



## cp2315

*Re: The SureFire P2X-B &quot;Fury&quot; 500lu flashlight thread*

I acquired a new p2x 600 lumen dual off eBay at $80. Wondering if it shares same driver with p3x. If so I can use two 16340 to get 1000 lumen? Any experience here?
oh, this is a xml2, knurled body and two spring one. Everything is great except tiny is a bit green.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto

*Re: The SureFire P2X-B &quot;Fury&quot; 500lu flashlight thread*



cp2315 said:


> Everything is great except tiny is a bit green.



Don't worry, you'll get used to it with recent SureFires. :green:


----------



## Skaaphaas

*Re: The SureFire P2X-B &quot;Fury&quot; 500lu flashlight thread*

Was one of the reasons I sold my P2X. 

I miss it, though.


----------



## J Smith

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Bogie said:


> Can anyone recommend a good holster for a fury looking for a bezel up unit. The SF ones have been wearing out on me rather quickly (Velcro not holding, getting loose on the light) thinking kydex.



My Fury will be here tomorrow. Been looking as well. I had been using a SF v21 but they are no longer being made. Think I am going to get one of the Maxpedition 5 in flashlight holsters. Also found this one on ebay that looks good,about the same design as the Maxped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/31159989169...49&var=610553849795&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


----------



## Modernflame

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



J Smith said:


> My Fury will be here tomorrow. Been looking as well. I had been using a SF v21 but they are no longer being made. Think I am going to get one of the Maxpedition 5 in flashlight holsters. Also found this one on ebay that looks good,about the same design as the Maxped.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/31159989169...49&var=610553849795&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT



You'll like the Maxpedition. On another note, my wife and I were vacationing last summer in Alabama where I just happened to find what I assumed was the last new V21 holster on Earth. Bought it with a quickness for under $20.


----------



## Bogie

*The SureFire P2X-B &quot;Fury&quot; 500lu flashlight thread*

I picked up a BlackHawk Universal and it fits nice and tight. Will just go Kydex when this wears out.


----------



## J Smith

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Modernflame said:


> You'll like the Maxpedition. On another note, my wife and I were vacationing last summer in Alabama where I just happened to find what I assumed was the last new V21 holster on Earth. Bought it with a quickness for under $20.



I need to make a call. I may know a place that might still have a few in stock.


----------



## J Smith

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Got it. Very impressed! I can't make out any green tint on mine.
The place I though might have a v21 does not. One more place to check and then I will order the Maxped.


----------



## desert.snake

Hello all!
I bought a flashlight, he's from an early batch (A00108).
Inner diameter 17.1 mm, gave to master-turner, I'm afraid - the head does not unscrew,
it is possible to damage plate in the depth via cutter. I think that the battery 17670 too fat.
I'm wondering if it can work properly on battery eagletac 16650 2500mAh ?

As for the old question, it glass or plastic - I do not know))



















bilder kostenlos


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Surefire Fury*

It's interesting your serial is on the head of the light...mine is from the first run (pretty sure) and the serial is on the body.


----------



## JohnnyBravo

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Is there something wrong w/ the start date of this thread? 2008? I see that the first 5 posts are in 2008, then it jumps to 2011. IIRC, the Furys became available in early 2012...


----------



## Up All Night

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Something is askew JB. Fury was definitely not around in 08, even in rumour. 
That would have put SureFire way, way out in front and we know that never happens.


----------



## desert.snake

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Well, well, I conducted the experiment.
The flashlight with the number A00108 works perfectly on the battery Eagletac 16650 2500 mAh


----------



## JohnnyBravo

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Does anyone know if SF made some Furys in the original body style (finger grooves) but w/ the newer 600 lumens output? I'd always thought that the 600s were only w/ the newer/current body. I see one on eBay for sale, and his owner's manual says 600 lumens...


----------



## glimmer

Another happy owner of a P2X Fury here. It's been 100% reliable, and I've never had an issue with the tint. The simple 2 mode operation is great- even the wife can use it!  I often use it camping and fishing at night, so starting on low is good. It's all I need most of the time- but the performance on high @ 600 lumens is really impressive! Great for searching and spotting. It's almost like 2 lights in one, and fits in my pocket. It's a very nice light, and even better if you can pick it up during one of Surefire's periodic 20% off sales!


----------



## BugoutBoys

JohnnyBravo said:


> Does anyone know if SF made some Furys in the original body style (finger grooves) but w/ the newer 600 lumens output? I'd always thought that the 600s were only w/ the newer/current body. I see one on eBay for sale, and his owner's manual says 600 lumens...



Yes, I have one of the old bodied furies that is 600 lumens. It has the newer emitter and the manual said 600 lumens. My guess is that they implemented that maybe a couple months before the new body came out, just as a way to get rid of the remaining old bodies but have them with the upgraded emitter and dual springs




glimmer said:


> Another happy owner of a P2X Fury here. It's been 100% reliable, and I've never had an issue with the tint. The simple 2 mode operation is great- even the wife can use it!  I often use it camping and fishing at night, so starting on low is good. It's all I need most of the time- but the performance on high @ 600 lumens is really impressive! Great for searching and spotting. It's almost like 2 lights in one, and fits in my pocket. It's a very nice light, and even better if you can pick it up during one of Surefire's periodic 20% off sales!



It's a fantastic flashlight! I EDC'd it for a while and absolutely love it still! The only reason I rotated it out was for the 2017 Aviator due to size. I wear jeans a lot and it was a little bit cumbersome to pocket as opposed to a 1 cell. I still carry it in my EDC backpack though! It's like a little searchlight!


----------



## JohnnyBravo

Ah ha, good to know. I may pull the trigger on that older bodied newer emitter dual mode Fury. Thanks so much...


----------



## BugoutBoys

JohnnyBravo said:


> Ah ha, good to know. I may pull the trigger on that older bodied newer emitter dual mode Fury. Thanks so much...


I have both and I think I prefer the older body! The grip on the newer one is definitely better if your hands are dry, but I love the feel on the old one!


----------



## desert.snake

The only point, I would add in Fury 3rd mode for 80-120 lumens.
Since sometimes 15 is small, but 500 is a bit too much.
It looks like I have to buy U2/UM2

But until this moment is still far away.
Therefore I use it :thumbsup:


















bilder upload


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Has anybody else seen this?

https://www.shopspring.com/products...dC2YKMLIzcmRPzqmGcFw5FoTW1CM2yx9jxRoC1MLw_wcB


----------



## Up All Night

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Very sharp! I would have liked to see the tail in orange as well.


----------



## RobertMM

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Bump.
Ballistic Radio just posted a Shotshow pic of the new Fury DFT (dual fuel), 18650 or CR123.

Output is bumped to 1500 lumens


----------



## the0dore3524

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



RobertMM said:


> Bump.
> Ballistic Radio just posted a Shotshow pic of the new Fury DFT (dual fuel), 18650 or CR123.
> 
> Output is bumped to 1500 lumens



Thanks for the heads-up! Looking at SFs page they have a pic of the cover of the 2018 catalog. Wonder when it’ll come out and give me more lights to drool over...


----------



## Hexlord

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Here is an article on it from Recoil:

http://www.recoilweb.com/surefire-fury-rechargeables-on-the-way-133400.html

I'm excited for it.


----------



## vadimax

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Hexlord said:


> Here is an article on it from Recoil:
> 
> http://www.recoilweb.com/surefire-fury-rechargeables-on-the-way-133400.html
> 
> I'm excited for it.



It is strange to see tailcap diameter to be larger then this of a battery tube. What’s the point?


----------



## RobertMM

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

If it's the single mode momentary-only push button tailcap, the larger diameter will help in twisting the tailcap with your thumb and forefinger while in an icepick grip.


----------



## carrot

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



vadimax said:


> It is strange to see tailcap diameter to be larger then this of a battery tube. What’s the point?



I'm guessing in order to maintain the thickness of the barrel with 18650's at the o-ring junction, they had to have a wider threading and a wider tailcap.

When people used to bore older Surefire 6P, C2, etc, you'd have the occasional report of somebody snapping a light right at the o-ring junction. A little bit too thin right there, plus boring ever so slightly off-center... and there you have it.

It's the same reason why you can't put batteries into an E-series light from the tailcap... the ID is cut thicker on that side to reinforce the o-ring cut.


----------



## carrot

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Looking at B&H's website they list the Fury Dual Fuel Intellibeam at $199 and the Fury Dual Fuel Tactical at $179, expected in 7-14 business days.

Does anybody think that is accurate information? The non-tactical model will be Intellibeam only? Will they *really* arrive in two to three weeks?


----------



## Bogie

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



vadimax said:


> It is strange to see tailcap diameter to be larger then this of a battery tube. What’s the point?



It is odd. I would have just increased body diameter so it wouldn't have that little step at the head and be the same as the tail.


----------



## carrot

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



Bogie said:


> It is odd. I would have just increased body diameter so it wouldn't have that little step at the head and be the same as the tail.



They can't do that either, because the 1" light mount for guns is a standard they are trying to meet with this light (and many of their others).


----------



## Toohotruk

*Re: The SureFire P2X-B &quot;Fury&quot; 500lu flashlight thread*

Man, I wish they weren't so much...guess the price will come down over time, but I'll probably just have to stick with my first gen Fury for the foreseeable future.


----------



## precisionworks

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

IMHO the older style Fury was far too slick. I modded some by cutting grooves and adding O-rings to the body and that helped quite a lot. I also tried heat shrink mesh tubing and that was good. The new design is a huge improvement and reminds me a lot of the 6P.


----------



## k3751

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

Has anyone gotten the new dual fuel Fury? Very interested, but didn't know if anyone had their hands on it yet.


----------



## electromage

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*

I'm excited to try the new one, but I'm not sold on the looks, and I've seen conflicting descriptions so I want to make sure I'm ordering the right thing when I decide to pick one up.


----------



## vadimax

*Re: The SureFire P2X-B &quot;Fury&quot; 500lu flashlight thread*



Toohotruk said:


> Man, I wish they weren't so much...guess the price will come down over time, but I'll probably just have to stick with my first gen Fury for the foreseeable future.



Personally for myself second edition Fury (600 lm) is absolutely OK. You may turn it on on max and don’t even think about overheating. Exactly what duty light should be.


----------



## Dave D

*Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...*



k3751 said:


> Has anyone gotten the new dual fuel Fury? Very interested, but didn't know if anyone had their hands on it yet.



There is a separate thread for the DFT Fury.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...urefire-Fury-2018-dual-fuel-18650-Cr123/page2


----------

