# Manker MK34 (12x XP-G3, 3x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!



## selfbuilt (Sep 29, 2016)

_*Reviewer's Note:* I am very backlogged with lights, so expect less detail than typical in my upcoming reviews. I will prioritize analyses over text descriptions._















The MK34 is an extremely compact, high-output flood light from Manker, featuring neutral-tinted Nichia 219B emitters or Cree XP-G3 cool white (tested here). Let's see what it can do …

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


LED: Emitter: 12x Cree XP-G3 / 12x Nichia 219B (_XP-G3 reviewed here_)
Maximum output: 8000 lumens (Cree XP-G3 LED) / 6500 lumens (Nichia 219B LED)
Brightness Levels /Runtime (Cree XP-G3 LED):
Moonlight: 0.1-30lumens, 2month-5days; Low: 120lumens, 30hrs; Medium1: 500lumens, 7.5hrs; Medium2: 1000lumens, 3.5hrs; High 2500lumens 2h, Turbo 8000lumens; Strobe 8000lumens.
Maximum beam intensity: 20000cd (Cree XP-G3 LED),
Maximum beam distance: 280M
Waterproof: IPX-8 (2 meter under water)
Impact resistance: 1.5meters
Working voltage: 2.8v - 4.35v (Over discharge protection)
Driver: Most efficiency constant current circuit
Material: Aircraft-grade aluminum body
Surface treatment: Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish
Lens: Toughened ultra-clear glass lens with anti-reflective coating
Tail stand
Specifications:
Dimensions: Length: 98mm, Diameter: 55mm, Weight: 278g (without battery)
MSRP: ~$130
Mine was an engineering sample, so I don't know what final packaging will look like. Typically with Manker, you get a fairly plain package (i.e., cardboard box, basic wrist-strap and manual).










All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Manker MK34*: Weight 270.1g, Length: 100.6mm, Width (bezel): 56.1mm

*Nitecore TM16:* Weight: 508.4g (697g with 4x18650). Length 181mm, Width (bezel): 88.9mm
*Nitecore TM06*: Weight: 276.4g (464g with 4x18650), Length 123.9mm, Width (bezel): 50.0mm 
*Nitecore TM11*: Weight: 342.6g (531g with 4x18650), Length 135.3mm, Width (bezel): 59.5mm 
*Nitecore TM15:* Weight: 450.6g (639g with 4x18650). Length 158mm, Width (bezel): 59.5mm
*Nitecore TM11*: Weight: 342.6g (476g with 8xCR123A), Length 135.3mm, Width (bezel): 59.5mm 
*Niwalker MM15*: Weight: 333.7g (without handle), 355.9g (with handle), (539g with 4x18650 and handle), Length: 114.6mm, Weight (bezel): 63.7mm
*Niwalker MM18*: Weight: 510.g (without handle), 534.1g (with handle), Lenth: 135.3mm, Width (bezel): 73.9mm
*Thrunite TN36*: Weight: 390.4g, Length: 125.4mm, Width (bezel): 64.0mm














The MK34 is extremely compact for a 12x emitter light. oo:

Build quality is good overall, at least as high as the U21 that I reviewed recently. Anodizing is neutral-gray (which I like), with no blemishes or flaws on my sample. Labels are not too bright. Knurling is not aggressive at all, but overall grip is ok thanks to the triangular head. Rolling is not a concern. 

There is a raised electronic switch in the head, with typical feel. There is a red/blue LED that serves as a low-voltage warning feature under the switch.

Screw threads are square-cut, and anodized for lockout. Threads are good quality, but desperately need some lube. A quick turn of the head is all you need to lock out the light. The light can tailstand stably.














The XP-G3 emitters are each in their own well, four per triangular head lobe, with a defined optic for each one. This should produce reasonably good flood. Scroll down for beamshots.

*User Interface*

Here is the programming map from Manker:






In simple terms, click the electronic switch to the turn the light on, press-and-hold to turn off.

When On, click the switch to cycle through the main output modes as follows: Moonlight > Low > Medium 1 > Medium 2 > Hi > Medium 2 > Medium 1 > Low > Moonlight, in a repeating loop (i.e., steps up in output, then down). There is mode memory, but you access it by a press-hold of the switch from Off. Otherwise, a single click will always activate on Moonlight. 

Turbo and the blinking modes are accessed by a double-click of the switch (from On or Off). First mode is Turbo. Single click to advance to Strobe, followed by SOS, then Beacon, then battery indicator (blue when >75%, purple when ~50%, and red when <25% remaining). There is no repeating loop for strobe modes, and a single click past battery indicator advances you to regular output modes (starting with Moonlight). Alternatively, double-click to return to standard outputs at any time (i.e., if you want to exit Turbo without cycling through the other modes).

So, in essence, you can jump from Off to the lowest level (single click), Turbo (double-click) or last memorized (press-hold), as you prefer. 

You lock out the light electronically by doing a single click, followed by double-click, and then a triple-click. The light shuts off and the battery indicator activates. Exit by repeating this sequence.

You can program the Moonlight mode to one of 10 levels (7 in practice, on my sample). From On, press and hold until the light shuts off and the battery indicator comes on. Now do a quick 4-times click of the switch. The light will activate in Moonlight. A single click will advance you through the 10 output choices repeatedly (but this includes three modes that were too faint to see on my sample – the emitters stayed dark). Note there was some flicker on the lowest two modes that did display on my sample. Scroll down for output mode level measures. Press-and-hold to make your choice and exit. 

*Video*: 

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:



As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

In this case, I recorded the video before I had the full spec sheet and manual, so there is definitely some updated info here. 

*PWM/Strobe*






There is no apparent sign of pulse width modulation (PWM) at any level. The light appears to be flat-stabilized, and is flicker-free at all output modes (except the two lowest programmable Moonlight modes, see my comments later in the review). 

Strobe:






Strobe is a relatively fast strobe of 11.3 Hz at full output, but with reduced On time (i.e., it spends most of the strobe duty cycle off).

SOS:






Standard SOS mode, but at reduced output.

Beacon:






Beacon is a quick flash at reduced output, approximately every 1.5 secs.

*Standby Drain*

Since the switch is electronic, there needs to be a standby current when the tailcap is connected. I measured this as 86uA. For three 3100mAh 18650 batteries in parallel, that would translate into over 12 years before the cells would be fully discharged – and so, is not a concern.

Note that you can lock out the light by a simple twist of the head. I don't know if the electronic lock-out changes the standby drain (it may increase it, as it turns on the battery indicator).

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera to minimize tint differences.





























































The MK34 is a flood light, although with a bit more of a hotspot than I was expecting (likely due to the use of optics). Overall tint is slightly neutral (i.e., creamy yellow-white). There is some tint shifting across the beam though, with a definite yellowing in the immediate corona, and some bluish-white shifting in the outer corona. While there are no artifacts per se, the hotspot seems somewhat irregularly shaped (i.e., it varies as you rotate the light).

Note that there is a scratch on my wall - that is not an artifact in the beam. 

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).






This is a lot of output for such a small size. oo:






It seems like my measures are relatively consistent with Manker specs, although consistently lower across the board. See runtimes below for more info.

As mentioned earlier, the moonlight mode is actually user-programmable.






That is certainly quite a range of options to choose from. Note that the lowest 3 levels are dark on my sample, with no light detected (and so have not included above). I also detect some subtle flickering at the lowest two Moonlight output modes shown above – I suspect this is from the difficulty in maintain a stable constant current at these low drive levels.

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*

All my current runtimes are done under a cooling fan.

First, a comparison of the higher output modes, using 2500mAh IMR:






As you can see, Turbo shows a rapid step-down to Hi (after exactly 30 secs). Note the red battery indicator may come on before step-down occurs (and then goes off after step-down). As a result of this step-down, the overall runtime for Turbo and Hi are about the same in my tests here. You can exit and re-start Turbo mode to restore max output (again with another timed 30 sec step-down).

Runtimes are very flat-stabilized. Typically, there are a series of step-downs to lower levels, as the batteries are nearly exhausted. Combined with the low-voltage warning LED indicator, you are not going to be surprised by a shut-off.

Here is how it compares to other lights (again using lower capacity 2500mAh IMR for the MK34 tests):











This is a reasonably good showing for the MK34 – given the 3x2500mAh batteries in the tests above.

*Potential Issues*

The light gets hot on Turbo/Hi, and seems to have a timed step-down at 30 secs from Turbo. You can re-start the Turbo mode any time after step-down (for another 30 sec run). Note Turbo is part of the secondary set of modes (that includes the strobes, but you exit back to regular modes at any time).

Button-top 18650s (small or large) are required to make contact, and overly long batteries may be an issue for tightening the head. Also, only high-drain rated batteries should be used on Turbo (i.e. IMR, INR or other suitable hybrid cells). 

Light uses an electronic switch, and therefore requires a stand-by current when fully connected. However, this drain is negligible (86uA), and below the self-discharge rate for 3x 18650 in parallel. You can physically lock-out the switch with a simple tailcap twist, breaking this current and preventing accidental activation. There is also an electronic lock-out option.

Moonlight mode is programmable, with 10 possible options. However the lowest 3 remained dark on my sample, and the next two showed some subtle flickering (likely due to difficulty in maintain stable current control at these ultra-low levels).

Beam pattern is unique. While a flood light overall, there is more center beam throw than I was expecting. There is also some tint shifting across the beam.

*Preliminary Observations*

The MK34 continues in a line of strong offerings from Manker. Distinctive for its class, I like the diminutive size and unique build. :thumbsup:

Manker initially focused on throw lights with its early offerings (e.g., T01, U21). The MK34 is a unique flood light, with 12x XP-G3 Cool White or Nichia 219B Neutral white (XP-G3 tested here). The max output is very impressive, with a distinctive flood beam. Note there is some tint-shifting in the beam (at least with XP-G3), and the triangular lobes alter the overall shape somewhat - but these are not overly distracting. I hope to update this review with additional outdoor pics, once I get a chance.

The user interface has been revised from the earlier models I reviewed, and I find it to be an improvement. Please see the detailed description earlier in this review. I'm impressed to see the new programmable output control for the Moonlight mode – a nice touch. 

The batteries are arranged in parallel, so you could use a lower number of cells if necessary. Note that I recommend using IMR or other high-drain rated batteries if you plan to run on Turbo (or regular modes with reduced cells). Otherwise, 3x standard 18650 (button-top) will be fine for regular non-Turbo modes. Note as well that Turbo has a timed step-down to Hi at 30 secs.

Performance-wise, you get good relative efficiency here, with excellent output regulation (i.e., flat-stabilized, with multiple step-downs as the battery is exhausted). No sign of flicker (except perhaps on the lowest sub-lumen Moonlight options in the programmable modes).

The build is probably my favorite yet from Manker – solid and straightforward (although the threads can use some lube). Overly long batteries may be an issue for tightening the head, however.

But what really blows me away is the output – it's hard to believe that I'm getting ~7500 lumens from something smaller than a soup can. oo: This is a distinctive mini flood light, and speaks well to Manker's continual innovation (and circuit evolution).

----

MK34 provided by Manker for review.


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## maukka (Sep 29, 2016)

*Re: Manker MK34 (12x Nichia 219B, 3x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and mor*

Thanks a lot! Your output tests confirm that my MK34 is not working properly.


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## RollerBoySE (Sep 29, 2016)

*Re: Manker MK34 (12x Nichia 219B, 3x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and mor*

(As always) a great review, thanks!


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## RollerBoySE (Sep 29, 2016)

*Re: Manker MK34 (12x Nichia 219B, 3x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and mor*

I checked Nichia's spec. 
( https://www.nichia.co.jp/specification/products/led/NVSW219B-V1-R90-E.pdf ) 
and it shouldn't be possible to get that many Lumens from 12 LED:s (of the type I assume it is).

How sure are you about your results? 
Could the light be equipped with some other LED:s?


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## selfbuilt (Sep 29, 2016)

*Re: Manker MK34 (12x Nichia 219B, 3x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and mor*



RollerBoySE said:


> How sure are you about your results?
> Could the light be equipped with some other LED:s?


_EDIT: sorry, my bad, mine are indeed XP-G3_

My own estimate of 7500 is based on my output calibration for flooders. It could certainly be a bit high, but it is at least _relatively_ consistent for other flooders I've tested. Hard to say its _absolute_ accuracy without a true, appropriately-sized >$15K calibrated NIST integrating sphere. :shrug:


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## RollerBoySE (Sep 29, 2016)

*Manker MK34 (12x Nichia 219B, 3x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and...*



selfbuilt said:


> I have no way to ascertain what emitters are in there exactly (and so, don't know if they are the ones you found a spec table for). Also don't know how hard Manker is driving the emitters in this case (those charts only provide max lumens at 700mA, and the flux curve at the end suggests the max rated 1500mA produces nearly twice as much output). So it seems like the Manker estimate of 6500 lumens is in the realm of feasibility.
> 
> My own estimate of 7500 is based on my output calibration for flooders. It could certainly be a bit high, but it is at least _relatively_ consistent for other flooders I've tested. Hard to say its _absolute_ accuracy without a true, appropriately-sized >$15K calibrated NIST integrating sphere. :shrug:



I don't have an integrating sphere at all, so you are way ahead of me. 

According to Nichia's homepage the link goes to the spec. of their highest output high CRI 219B.

I have both the MK34 and the Noctigon M43 Meteor, both equipped with 12 x 5000K high CRI 219B:s. According to a simple ceiling bounce the output is about the same from both on turbo (using 25R and a luxmeter). The M43 is supposed to output around 4500 lumens on turbo, so go figure. I don't have any other lights in the same class to compare with, so maybe my M43 is better than I thought...

My MK34 also steps down after 23 seconds on turbo (as opposed to your 30 seconds), which makes me wonder if your MK34 is different somehow.


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## maukka (Sep 29, 2016)

*Re: Manker MK34 (12x Nichia 219B, 3x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and...*

I also get 1800 lumens on high so I trust selfbuilt's lumens. On turbo mine only goes up to 3600-4000 lumens max (tried ceiling bounce and three different spheres) immediately after switching on the light though.

edit: nevermind, Manker says this is the Cree version


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## selfbuilt (Sep 29, 2016)

*Re: Manker MK34 (12x Nichia 219B, 3x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and...*



RollerBoySE said:


> I don't have an integrating sphere at all, so you are way ahead of me.


Sorry, I screwed up on the emitters - mine are actually XP-G3. The tint is somewhat creamy yellow, so I wasn't sure until Manker confirmed my sample. I have redone the white wall beamshots with standard auto-white settings, so you can see how they compare to other lights (now all on the same settings).

Sorry about that ... but it does make more sense for the 7500 estimated lumens now (compared to the 8000 spec).



> My MK34 also steps down after 23 seconds on turbo (as opposed to your 30 seconds), which makes me wonder if your MK34 is different somehow.


Interesting. I measured mine, and it was just over 29 secs on the stopwatch feature on my phone.


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## maukka (Sep 29, 2016)

*Re: Manker MK34 (12x Nichia 219B, 3x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and...*

Thanks for the correction. Everything makes more sense now. I think Manker should correct their spec sheet for the 219B if RollerBoy's light is also near 4000-4500 lumens.

Mine steps down at 22 sec so maybe it's just the difference between the 219B and XP-G3 versions.


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## RollerBoySE (Sep 30, 2016)

*Re: Manker MK34 (12x Nichia 219B, 3x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and...*



selfbuilt said:


> Sorry, I screwed up on the emitters - mine are actually XP-G3. The tint is somewhat creamy yellow, so I wasn't sure until Manker confirmed my sample. I have redone the white wall beamshots with standard auto-white settings, so you can see how they compare to other lights (now all on the same settings).
> 
> Sorry about that ... but it does make more sense for the 7500 estimated lumens now (compared to the 8000 spec).



Thanks for following this up! 
Now it all makes sense again.


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## RollerBoySE (Sep 30, 2016)

*Re: Manker MK34 (12x Nichia 219B, 3x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and...*



selfbuilt said:


> Sorry, I screwed up on the emitters - mine are actually XP-G3. The tint is somewhat creamy yellow, so I wasn't sure until Manker confirmed my sample. I have redone the white wall beamshots with standard auto-white settings, so you can see how they compare to other lights (now all on the same settings).
> 
> Sorry about that ... but it does make more sense for the 7500 estimated lumens now (compared to the 8000 spec).



Thanks for following this up! 
Now it all makes sense again. 

By the way: I'm very happy with my MK34.


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## Connor (Oct 16, 2016)

*Re: Manker MK34 (12x Nichia 219B, 3x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and...*

For size reference:


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## Flight_Deck (Oct 17, 2016)

*Re: Manker MK34 (12x Nichia 219B, 3x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and...*

This thing takes only the very shortest unprotected cells.

Very frustrating as all the quality 18650's in my arsenal are too long.


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## Connor (Oct 17, 2016)

*Re: Manker MK34 (12x Nichia 219B, 3x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and...*

@Flight_Deck 

Sanyo/Panasonic NCR 18650GA 3500mAh flat tops fit very nicely.


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## RollerBoySE (Oct 17, 2016)

Flight_Deck said:


> This thing takes only the very shortest unprotected cells.
> 
> Very frustrating as all the quality 18650's in my arsenal are too long.



They also need to be button tops. 
(18650GA with the raised flat top (standard) also works.)

25R (button top) and GA (standard) are the cells I've used successfully in my MK34. 30Q (button top) were too long to fit.


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## Connor (Oct 31, 2016)

Tint comparison shot:






Zebralight SC600w II L2 - Manker MK34 (Nichia 219b) - Nitecore TIP CRI - Zebralight SC63w

All set to 10-20 lumens, camera manually set to 5800°K ([email protected])


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## Sen0rphil (Nov 18, 2016)

Comparison Beam shots between the Olight X7 and 2 LED flavours of mk34. Thanks to the reviews by going gear.


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## RBWNY (Jan 21, 2017)

I like this light! HOWEVER, I am having THE most frustrating time with the batteries. I almost need a video to explain it...but I'll do my best without one.

First of all, not ONE "regular" protected 18650 that I own... and I have many brands... will work in this light. The light seems only to accept up to 65mm ... and all my PC cells are taller. Okay, so I also have 4 Samsung 30Q's (3000mAh) flat-tops. Now here's where it gets frustrating. If I put 3 of them into the light, it screws down just fine, but the light won't work! If I take ONE of them OUT, and replace it with an unprotected (cheap) button-top cell, it works!! It also doesn't matter which Samsung I remove....so there's nothing wrong with any of the 30Q's I have, but as long as 3 of them are in the light, it won't work. In order FOR it to work, I have to replace ONE of them...and it doesn't matter which one I remove.

Back when, for battery testing purposes, (and when I bought a couple of cheap flashlight kits) I amassed several low-quality, low capacity, 18650's. The light works with every one of those awful cells... and I don't have 3 of them (except for one that's REALLY low capacity) that match... and I wouldn't want to use them as a set anyway. 

But...does this sound weird or what??? Obviously I feel I need to get 3 cells that will actually work...but they need to be no longer than 65mm and need to be IMR's. GoingGear's review recommends Sanyo... but I'd like to get them at a good price. 

Any thoughts from anyone as to why it won't work with all THREE of the Samsung's?????


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## maukka (Jan 21, 2017)

Flat tops won't work in the MK34 at all so that's your problem. Replacing one 30Q with a button top battery means you're just utilizing that one button top. The light works with only one battery since they are parallel.


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## RBWNY (Jan 21, 2017)

Holy smokes! I didn't notice that!! Thanks.... that makes all the sense in the world! Okay, now I know what I should be looking out for! :thumbsup:


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## JimAShaw (Jan 28, 2017)

In the review video, It was stated that an IMR 20A battery was used.

Could you please tell me exactly what battery was used for the MK34?

I am seriously consider getting the Manker MK34 and a little confused on what battery to buy.

Manker's data on the MK34 says: *We recommend Sanyo 18650GA for your MK34*. Three lines down it is stated: _ *1.The battery should supply at least 20amps current.
*
_Yet, the data regarding the Sanyo 18650GA states_: _*Max. continuous discharge current: 10A

*I don't understand batteries and a little confused. Is* "Current"* different than *"Continuous Discharge Current"*? I need a little battery help before ordering and what to order.

Thanks for any input.


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## RollerBoySE (Jan 28, 2017)

JimAShaw said:


> In the review video, It was stated that an IMR 20A battery was used.
> 
> Could you please tell me exactly what battery was used for the MK34?
> 
> ...



That is 20A total, so roughly 7A per cell.


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## tomzarbo (Apr 22, 2017)

Thanks for the great review of this light. I ordered one a month or so ago and love it. Have not set a moonlight mode yet, but will soon. I like 
the step up to high, then step back down again way this operates. 
It's also more floods than most of my other lights, which I like.
I think my only 'con' is that I can hardly get my hand through the lanyard.  
TomZ


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