# Maratac AAA Q5 (Part 4)



## Robocop (Nov 16, 2009)

Continued from part 3


http://countycomm.com/aaa.html

Part 3 was over 400 posts and will be closed to continue in part 4 here.


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## Robocop (Nov 16, 2009)

I have 3 of the Maratacs and really do like these lights and have not had any problems at all with mine. I have tried a 10440 in each and it worked fine however got pretty hot quickly.

As far as the broken heads go has anyone heard anything else about that? I have been playing with lights for as long as I can remember and have never had one just break like that from a fall. I have however broken several that looked just like the photos posted and each one was broken when I was trying to remove the internals and twisted too hard.

In all my years of dropping lights...abusing lights...testing lights...I have never had one break due to a 3 foot drop. I honestly believe there is something not right about the reports of these lights just breaking apart on impact from a small drop.

If I remember right I read in one of the continued threads that CountyComm was having a few issues with people returning these lights. It was said they asked for refunds claiming the light simply quit working however was obvious the internals had been scratched up....most likely by the user trying to remove the circuit. I would easier believe the reports of the heads just breaking off were due to the same abuse.


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## TITAN1833 (Nov 16, 2009)

I agree 


what might be happening iseople are trying to get the pill unscrewed by using pliers of some sort and on opening the pliers with the nose inside the head,they're in turn putting to much pressure on the tube walls thus when they twist they're in fact twisting the tube walls SNAP! 




[edit] oh patriot thanks but since then I've took the more permanent approach as you can see a magnet can still be used 

As it's a keeper I decided to remove the lug once and for all


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## Patriot (Nov 18, 2009)

Good call on the lug removal Titan. That seems to work very well. It's probably what I would do with the ITP since I've grown quite fond of tail standing lights. Your magnet add an extra element. 




Robo, I haven't heard any other details about the broken lights. I have seen the two examples posted and one guy stated that the light was "dropped" but who knows? We don't know if it was 3 feet or off of the roof. Mine aluminum one fell on the kitchen tile the other day but it didn't even put a mark on it. The HA finish seems plenty durable anyhow.


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## TooManyGizmos (Nov 19, 2009)

Patriot said:


> Robo, I haven't heard any other details about the broken lights. I have seen the two examples posted and one guy stated that the light was "dropped" but who knows? We don't know if it was 3 feet or off of the roof. Mine aluminum one fell on the kitchen tile the other day but it didn't even put a mark on it. The HA finish seems plenty durable anyhow.



Just 2 broken lights out of many,many ...... should be considered just a fluke.(1 bad run)

I don't think that should get so much attention , since it is not a wide spread problem.
.


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## Tesla (Nov 19, 2009)

...Yep, I have one of the stainless models and got careless and dropped it in a parking lot about 2 weeks back and not even a scratch and function is still fine.


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## oronocova (Nov 20, 2009)

The iTP is machined differently so this may not apply but I have been using mine everyday at work for weeks. It gets dropped and abused daily. ... Zero problems thus far. Watch it break today LOL


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## sabre7 (Nov 20, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Just 2 broken lights out of many,many ...... should be considered just a fluke.(1 bad run)
> 
> I don't think that should get so much attention , since it is not a wide spread problem.
> .


Unfortunately, there will be those who dislike these lights for whatever reason who will forever continue to dredge those 2 broken lights up as though it were a very common widespread problem.


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## Bearcat (Nov 21, 2009)

My new Maratac is stuck on high mode. Any suggestions? :shrug:


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## Patriot (Nov 22, 2009)

Bearcat said:


> My new Maratac is stuck on high mode. Any suggestions? :shrug:



Sorry Bearcat, sounds like a problem with the circuit itself. There's not much to go wrong on these other than contact faults. What battery type are you running it it. Have you tried any others yet for diagnostic purposes?


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## TooManyGizmos (Nov 22, 2009)

I hope you are not twisting it too fast .

See if slowing down helps .


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## Incidentalist (Nov 22, 2009)

Please release a Ti version of this light. 

I love the styling of the Maratac AAA and would love to see them release it in Ti. If they're doing it for the iTP (and again under the Olight branding), they can do it for the Maratac, right?


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## applevision (Nov 22, 2009)

Incidentalist said:


> Please release a Ti version of this light.
> 
> I love the styling of the Maratac AAA and would love to see them release it in Ti. If they're doing it for the iTP (and again under the Olight branding), they can do it for the Maratac, right?



*Inci*, wouldn't you agree that the IlluminaTi is almost exactly this? I feel like it is so similar that only its knurling pattern will tell them apart... But I know what you mean... I like my Maratac... but the thing is I hate to buy the same light over and over... with the IlluminaTi we get the XP-G upgrade!


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## MKLight (Nov 23, 2009)

Was it ever made public why these lights were originally made....which government office ordered them? 

Thanks,
MK


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## Incidentalist (Nov 23, 2009)

applevision,

I might be able to concede that point next weekend when I (hopefully) have the IlluminaTi in my hands and can see them side by side. By the looks of it, you are correct. But, they made a Ti version of the iTP, so...

All I really want is another Ti AAA to add to the collection, is that so much to ask?


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## Bearcat (Nov 23, 2009)

Patriot said:


> Sorry Bearcat, sounds like a problem with the circuit itself. There's not much to go wrong on these other than contact faults. What battery type are you running it it. Have you tried any others yet for diagnostic purposes?



I was using a Rayovac Hybrid battery. My other Maratac AAA I ordered at the same time works just fine. I swapped batteries and it was still stuck on high beam. I really like this light a whole lot, even though I would prefer it with a low-med-high.

I just called CountryComm and spoke with Nick. He said no problem, just send it back and they would replace it. :twothumbs


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## Patriot (Nov 23, 2009)

> =Bearcat;
> 
> I just called CountryComm and spoke with Nick. He said no problem, just send it back and they would replace it. :twothumbs




It's really great to see CC step up and help to resolve the issue you're having. I find this is very typical of their customer service though. They're 1st class people back there. Nick is a Great guy and will take excellent care of you.


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## sabre7 (Nov 23, 2009)

Patriot said:


> It's really great to see CC step up and help to resolve the issue you're having. I find this is very typical of their customer service though. They're 1st class people back there. Nick is a Great guy and will take excellent care of you.



+1 on CC customer service, I had a crooked lens/o-ring on the front of a SS Maratac AAA that was bought in a group buy and they exchanged it no problem. :twothumbs


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## applevision (Nov 24, 2009)

Incidentalist said:


> applevision,
> 
> I might be able to concede that point next weekend when I (hopefully) have the IlluminaTi in my hands and can see them side by side. By the looks of it, you are correct. But, they made a Ti version of the iTP, so...
> 
> All I really want is another Ti AAA to add to the collection, is that so much to ask?



No my brother... another light is never too much to ask for!


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## compasillo (Nov 24, 2009)

I love my Maratac's and never found any issue with them.
I got the black, natural, SS and now waiting for SS polished... If they made a Ti model I'd go for it also, though I agree the IlluminaTi is an upgraded Maratac in Ti (let's see next week when I receive mine).
Regarding that broken lights reported I'm with Robocop and others about thinking it seems the result of a forced twist action and not a simple drop...


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## Vee3 (Nov 24, 2009)

Anyone know if there is enough thickness in the base of these to drill & tap for a small stud to make an attachment point like the ITP model has? 

A stud could be made from a modified 4-40 or 6-32 socket head cap screw with a cross-drilled hole through the head for a split ring.


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## daytec (Nov 24, 2009)

don't have to worry about breaking mine..........lost mine ,just too small
need a two pound weight or a bottom plow to keep me from losing it


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## EXCALIBUR1 (Nov 24, 2009)

I just got my Polished SS Maratac AAA to add to the Natural one in my collection. This is my first SS flashlight. I'm lovin' it.:thumbsup:


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## Patriot (Nov 24, 2009)

Vee3 said:


> Anyone know if there is enough thickness in the base of these to drill & tap for a small stud to make an attachment point like the ITP model has?




Without testing it with a depth gauge I can't say positively but I suspect there is not enough thickness. I think it would be very easy to penetrate the light body if you tried to drill into it.


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## Patriot (Nov 25, 2009)

I measured the tail end thickness, and it's only about .020 thick 

Needless to say, not enough to thread into. The ITP version already had the stud in the back if that what you're looking for.


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## TooManyGizmos (Nov 25, 2009)

Maybe you could drill a tiny angled hole very close to the end , to put a split ring thru ?

Have you considered that ?

.


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## Patriot (Nov 25, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Maybe you could drill a tiny angled hole very close to the end , to put a split ring thru ?
> 
> Have you considered that ?
> 
> .





Not enough meat there. If you look at the machined groove for the key chain attachment while the light is pointed bezel up, the floor of the light body starts at the top edge of the bottom groove. If you went in at an angle you'd easily peirce into the battery compartment near the edge of tube/floor junction. It seems the thickest portion on the whole light is on the belt just below the body thread and even that's only .060


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## TooManyGizmos (Nov 25, 2009)

Oh - well ............. just use the orig. key chain attachment .


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## MKLight (Nov 26, 2009)

Does anyone know if CC sells replacement keychain attachments? I broke mine when I took it off to polish the light. I haven't had any luck finding the spring ring attachment at any of my local hardware stores, either...

Thank you!
MK


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## Patriot (Nov 26, 2009)

MKLight said:


> Does anyone know if CC sells replacement keychain attachments? I broke mine when I took it off to polish the light. I haven't had any luck finding the spring ring attachment at any of my local hardware stores, either...
> 
> Thank you!
> MK





I don't think they have spares but since a few of these have broken maybe it would be a good idea if they did carry them. Send Nick and email or give him a call and see what he can do for you. I'm sure they have a few laying around. If everything else fails I can send you a snap ring clip or give you the stock clip off of one of my own lights. You'll be taken care of either way so no worries *MK*.


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## MKLight (Nov 27, 2009)

Patriot said:


> I don't think they have spares but since a few of these have broken maybe it would be a good idea if they did carry them. Send Nick and email or give him a call and see what he can do for you. I'm sure they have a few laying around. If everything else fails I can send you a snap ring clip or give you the stock clip off of one of my own lights. You'll be taken care of either way so no worries *MK*.



Patriot,

Thank you very much for your offer. I will call Nick - I think they're closed tomorrow, so I will call on Monday. How do you like the snap ring compared to the stock key ring attachment?

Happy Thanksgiving!

Thank you again,
MK


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## Patriot (Nov 27, 2009)

MKLight said:


> Patriot,
> 
> Thank you very much for your offer. I will call Nick - I think they're closed tomorrow, so I will call on Monday. How do you like the snap ring compared to the stock key ring attachment?
> 
> ...





You're welcome and Happy Thanksgiving back to you. 

I think I like the usability of the stock attachment better. The snap ring is a bit more solid but the eye holes on the snap ring are very small which requires a small and thus weak split ring. This is even after I drilled them out some to enlarge the holes. It also pokes a bit more while in the pocket. Each has it's trade offs.


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## MKLight (Nov 27, 2009)

Thanks for the update. I will definitely call Nick on Monday to ask if he has a stock replacement. In the meantime, I'm tempted by the polished SS now, too....:devil:

Thanks again and have a great weekend! I'll let you know what I hear.
MK


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## Vee3 (Nov 28, 2009)

Patriot said:


> I measured the tail end thickness, and it's only about .020 thick
> 
> Needless to say, not enough to thread into. The ITP version already had the stud in the back if that what you're looking for.




Thanks for measuring it. Would it be possible just to drill through and put a thin nut on the inside, or would that interfere with the spring/battery?

I have an ITP on the way, but I like the diamond knurl on the Maratac better...


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## TooManyGizmos (Nov 28, 2009)

Vee3 ,

You could drill a hole and pass a solid rivit thru from the inside , then drill a hole thru the exposed rivit for a split-ring .


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## Patriot (Nov 28, 2009)

Vee3 said:


> Thanks for measuring it. Would it be possible just to drill through and put a thin nut on the inside, or would that interfere with the spring/battery?




That would be possible if the hardware was kept small. It will certainly be easy to drill through.


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## Vee3 (Nov 28, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Vee3 ,
> 
> You could drill a hole and pass a solid rivit thru from the inside , then drill a hole thru the exposed rivit for a split-ring .




Perfectamundo.

I've got all kinds of little titanium and stainless rivet doo-dads for medical implants; one or another should work.

Thanks much for that ideer....


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## TooManyGizmos (Nov 28, 2009)

Remember , if you add some silicone on the inside to attempt to waterproof it , it may prevent the spring from making electrical contact with the body.

Tiny O-ring might work better around the rivit inside . Drill the hole thru the rivit close to the body , so when the split ring is inserted , it pulls the rivit , and will compress the internal O-ring . (may need to lube the O-ring)

You might also add a small thin washer on the outside , around the rivit , between the body and the split ring , so the body won't get scratched as the rivit and split ring turns .
.


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## applevision (Nov 28, 2009)

Hey guys, I just posted some thoughts and beamshots about the IlluminaTi vs. our Maratac here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3178665#post3178665






In sum, the Maratac is bested but not by much! And for the price, I still think that the Maratac cannot be beat!

Enjoy!


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## Patriot (Nov 29, 2009)

I enjoyed that review. Great pictures as well. For about double the price you get an XP-G, improved circuit, and a Ti body. Not too shabby. :naughty:


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## Vee3 (Nov 29, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> You might also add a small thin washer on the outside , around the rivit , between the body and the split ring , so the body won't get scratched as the rivit and split ring turns .
> .



I rekun that's the way I'll do it.

I'm not much worried about water on a keyring light that's in my pocket 95% of the time. We're having a drought here anyway, so rain isn't generally a problem.


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## applevision (Nov 29, 2009)

Thanks, *Patriot*!


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## TooManyGizmos (Nov 30, 2009)

Vee3 ,

Let us know how your rivit MOD turns out .

I'd like to see pictures .
.


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## Vee3 (Nov 30, 2009)

Will do.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 12, 2009)

My Maratac Aluminum died. It was getting undependable, and now it just won't turn on. I'm getting voltage up from the tube, so it's in the head.

As I mentioned before, the workmanship on this specimen was poor, and it looks like the reflector sits on the terminals of the emitter. Perhaps on the recent cold day when I tried to use it the reflector finally shorted them out.

Head can't be opened... too cheap to bother with shipping it back to be fixed. Looks like disposable lights have made a comeback... :candle:


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## sabre7 (Dec 12, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> Head can't be opened... too cheap to bother with shipping it back to be fixed. Looks like disposable lights have made a comeback... :candle:



I'm sure the original dealer would exchange it or even give you a refund. The postage for mailing it back by USPS would be very inexpensive.


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## Dan FO (Dec 12, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> My Maratac Aluminum died. It was getting undependable, and now it just won't turn on. I'm getting voltage up from the tube, so it's in the head.
> 
> As I mentioned before, the workmanship on this specimen was poor, and it looks like the reflector sits on the terminals of the emitter. Perhaps on the recent cold day when I tried to use it the reflector finally shorted them out.
> 
> Head can't be opened... too cheap to bother with shipping it back to be fixed. Looks like disposable lights have made a comeback... :candle:



I think the QC on the ITP version is much better.


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## rmojo (Dec 15, 2009)

Hey guys I just want to an update to my post of this pick:
http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2865756840103197293PmKrZN
County comm sent me a new one to replace this one. The problem with the first one was that the milling on left the wall where it broke too thin. The 3 foot drop didn't matter, it would have broken anyway. The replacement light has been great and have had no problems with it. The only down that I have found is what everyone has been saying...the clip. It is weak and not very useful. Other than that GET ONE!


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## Bimmerboy (Dec 21, 2009)

Robocop said:


> I have however broken several that looked just like the photos posted and each one was broken when I was trying to remove the internals and twisted too hard.


It's been a while since I saw that pic of you around here somewhere, but IIRC, you'd probably be able to snap the head off a 6P... lol.


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## Patriot (Dec 22, 2009)

Just thought I post a picture showing how well the SS Maratac throws compared to the Preon even while producing less overall light. 


Maratac SS 10440 30.8 lux..........................Preon Ti 10440 39.0 lux


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## applevision (Dec 22, 2009)

Patriot said:


> Just thought I post a picture showing how well the SS Maratac throws compared to the Preon even while producing less overall light.
> Maratac SS 10440 30.8 lux..........................Preon Ti 10440 39.0 lux



Excellent comparison photo, *Patriot*, and a wicked important concept for all. I worry that this new generation of lights (particularly the XP-G and maybe the SSTs--to early to tell yet) will be maligned for looking "not much brighter" than the last generation... even though they are, due to the floodiness. 

It's a double-edged sword: a beam can be concentrated and look/be brighter in a spot and can be floodier and look/be dimmer in a spot and that can make it very confusing, especially for non-flashaholics... I do think that the future will bring more adjustable lights as well, and I look forward to that indeed!

At any rate, this picture is a perfect example of lumens vs. lux and flood vs. throw.


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## Patriot (Dec 22, 2009)

applevision said:


> Excellent comparison photo, *Patriot*, and a wicked important concept for all. I worry that this new generation of lights (particularly the XP-G and maybe the SSTs--to early to tell yet) will be maligned for looking "not much brighter" than the last generation... even though they are, due to the floodiness.
> 
> It's a double-edged sword: a beam can be concentrated and look/be brighter in a spot and can be floodier and look/be dimmer in a spot *and that can make it very confusing, especially for non-flashaholics.*
> 
> At any rate, this picture is a perfect example of lumens vs. lux and flood vs. throw.





Thank you sir!


As you stated, it can be terribly confusing for those who aren't yet familiar with the concept of output vs. throw. In this example the Preon on the right is producing 21% more light than the Maratac AAA on the left, yet it may not look as bright at first glance. If they were closer in overall output, it would be even harder for the eye to discern that the Preon was brighter.

When we go by the instrument instead of the eye it provides such insight as well as acts as a teaching tool...at least for me. That's a testament to the progression of LED technology even for those who haven't recognized the advancement made by the XP-G's and SST's.

A case in point, look what happens when the XP-E in the Maratac is mounted behind a similar reflector and casting a similar beamshape to that of the Ti Preon.

Natural HA Maratac AAA on 10440 (32.0 lux)..............Ti Preon 10440 (39.0 lux)





Now that 20% really shows! And yes, my Natural HA Maratac actually tests slightly brighter than the SS Maratac.


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## JB5 (Dec 22, 2009)

I really like these lights. I am just having a hard time with the 8.75 shipping cost since I live about 30 minutes drive from there location. I just can't justify that.


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## Luminescent (Dec 23, 2009)

JB5 said:


> I really like these lights. I am just having a hard time with the 8.75 shipping cost since I live about 30 minutes drive from there location. I just can't justify that.



If you are looking for the Stainless Steel Maratac AAA try this link to Survival Shop.

Same as the Stainless Steel Maratac version from country.com, but much lower shipping and no CA tax if you are a CA resident.

I ordered my light on a Friday and it arrived only a few days later on the following Tuesday, and the guy there was super to deal with.


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## JB5 (Dec 23, 2009)

Luminescent said:


> If you are looking for the Stainless Steel Maratac AAA try this link to Survival Shop.
> 
> Same as the Stainless Steel Maratac version from country.com, but much lower shipping and no CA tax if you are a CA resident.
> 
> I ordered my light on a Friday and it arrived only a few days later on the following Tuesday, and the guy there was super to deal with.


 
Thanks for the info.


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## Patriot (Dec 26, 2009)

I just heard something thumping around in my clothes dryer. Turned out my electro-polished AAA light took a dip in the washing machine during a heavy duty cycle. I was a bit worried but found the light working properly and dry as a bone inside.

 County Comm, Maratac.


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## tbenedict (Dec 26, 2009)

My buddy's fell of his hat in the ocean near a shore in FL. Couldn't get to it that night, but was able too the next morning when the tide was down. It was stuck business end up between some rocks so he could see it. Was still running in low and had no issues other than a few minor scratches from the rocks.


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## compasillo (Jan 13, 2010)

A "homemade" solution for trit locators (just my first prototype )


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## swxb12 (May 7, 2010)

Hmm, there's a copper version now: http://countycomm.com/AAAcopper.html

Anyone know how well copper would dissipate heat compared to aluminum?


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## MKLight (May 7, 2010)

swxb12 said:


> Hmm, there's a copper version now: http://countycomm.com/AAAcopper.html
> 
> Anyone know how well copper would dissipate heat compared to aluminum?



It also now says it starts from low-medium-high. It has an introductory price of $48.50. Interesting...


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## sjmack (May 7, 2010)

The copper looks freaking awesome.


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## Alaric Darconville (May 7, 2010)

*Copper Maratac AAA*

That thing is BEAUTIFUL! And expensive 

Also, the price went up-- it was $48.50 earlier today, now $59.50. An $11.00 jump. Ouch.

Worse yet, the shipping cost goes up quite a bit because of their $50.00 threshhold.

Not the right place for jeers, but: Jeers.


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## Lynx_Arc (May 7, 2010)

swxb12 said:


> Hmm, there's a copper version now: http://countycomm.com/AAAcopper.html
> 
> Anyone know how well copper would dissipate heat compared to aluminum?



according to this CHART copper is not quite twice as good at conducting heat as aluminum (401 vs 250). The reason aluminum is used is mainly cost and copper is harder thus requires more to manufacture than aluminum that is why it is used so often. Older radiators in cars had all copper cores with aluminum fins then later they got cheaper and used more aluminum and even plastic where they could. silver is slightly better than copper at heat conduction, but at only about 5% better (429 vs 401) the extra cost and oxidation problems with silver make it not economically worth it in most cases. Gold is better than aluminum but only 75% as good as copper (310 vs 401). surprisingly stainless steel is rather low (16) but used because it is very durable. I have an LD01-SS that works fine but I wouldn't drive an LED too hard using only stainless as heatsinking. I would bet most stainless lights have copper heatsinks inside them primarily otherwise mounting an LED on an SS pad wouldn't be even as good as a standard steel one at all (43).


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## swxb12 (May 7, 2010)

Wow - great post, Lynx_Arc! :thumbsup:

And *doh*, I didn't even think about the usage of copper around me in wiring, piping, and my aftermarket cpu cooler! heh


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## MKLight (May 7, 2010)

*Re: Copper Maratac AAA*



swxb12 said:


> Hmm, there's a copper version now: http://countycomm.com/AAAcopper.html
> 
> Anyone know how well copper would dissipate heat compared to aluminum?





MKLight said:


> It also now says it starts from low-medium-high. It has an introductory price of $48.50. Interesting...





Alaric Darconville said:


> That thing is BEAUTIFUL! And expensive
> 
> Also, the price went up-- it was $48.50 earlier today, now $59.50. An $11.00 jump. Ouch.
> 
> ...




You're right...Really ouch...20% jump in the "introductory" price in 12 hours time...Cost seems high when compared to Peak's brass collection. I wonder what the difference is in heatsinking of copper compared with brass. Like County Comm says...it probably is the only copper light out there...now will ITP make it in their versions...?

EDIT: Just some random thoughts - Per Linx's Chart, brass is at 109. So would that mean you shouldn't feel any heat? How often would it need to be polished? Tarnished copper isn't as nice looking as polished copper...Still an interesting option...It's always good to see innovation! :twothumbs


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## Flying Turtle (May 7, 2010)

Now this looks pretty slick. Having low come up first makes me interested, too. I guess the finish would age to that "old penny" look.

Geoff


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## Dan FO (May 7, 2010)

Now the price is down to $38.50. http://countycomm.com/AAAcopper.html

It's the bouncing price, it's like the "Price Is Right" gone bonkers.


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## parnass (May 7, 2010)

The flashlight's copper construction should make it easy to solder the pocket clip and/or lanyard clip on.


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## Patriot (May 8, 2010)

I should have one in hand in a couple of days, so I'll post some pictures or a video as soon as I get it. 

I'll do some temperature tests while running on 10440's so we'll give it a real workout.


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## sjmack (May 8, 2010)

Patriot said:


> I should have one in hand in a couple of days, so I'll post some pictures or a video as soon as I get it.
> 
> I'll do some temperature tests while running on 10440's so we'll give it a real workout.




I look forward to it. At 38$, its just that much more endearing...


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## Cuso (May 8, 2010)

Patriot said:


> I should have one in hand in a couple of days, so I'll post some pictures or a video as soon as I get it.
> 
> I'll do some temperature tests while running on 10440's so we'll give it a real workout.


Looking forward to that...:thumbsup:


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## compasillo (May 8, 2010)

I'd like to get one of these... If I could get shipped outside the US


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## Nebuchadnezzar (May 9, 2010)

I've been waffling for a long time on picking up a Maratac AAA, the copper version pushed me over the edge. Not only is it beautiful but the low to high UI is perfect for my uses.

My main concern is tarnish, from what I've gleaned from these threads the heads breaking off is from people trying to disassemble them.

I'll get some pics up when it gets here.


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## swxb12 (May 9, 2010)

I hope you like minty lights, cause a quick toothpaste massage should do the trick


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## Patriot (May 9, 2010)

Nebuchadnezzar said:


> My main concern is tarnish, from what I've gleaned from these threads the heads breaking off is from people trying to disassemble them.





Congrats on your new light. I won't have mine until tomorrow.

Some of the heads broke because people were trying to disassemble them and I was informed that a few others had broke because they were slightly out of spec and too thin. CC became aware of the problem early on and quickly fixed it.

Picture passed along to me by Nick at CC.....


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## jtivat (May 10, 2010)

I have a friend I bought a polished SS unit for. He says that will not turn off sometimes unless he really unscrews the head a long ways??


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## Patriot (May 10, 2010)

Just opened up my CC package and started checking out my new copper light a few minutes ago. Wow....is it ever purdy. It's not switching on to high perfectly each time so perhaps I just need to clean the threads. The output looks excellent and on par with the my other Maratac AAAs. The head seems to heat up rapidly when I run it on high, so I guess the copper is doing its job.







More later...........................

[COLOR=Red][B]UPDATE[/B][/COLOR]
Posted the video review here........ [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-uXt1vOmzZk&feature=player_embedded[/url]


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## Flying Turtle (May 10, 2010)

Looks like a happy family there, Patriot. Can you confirm that the level sequence is L-M-H? Thanks.

Geoff


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## Beacon of Light (May 10, 2010)

Is it truly Low/medium/high? Have they finally decided to do the obvious.


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## Patriot (May 11, 2010)

Flying Turtle said:


> Looks like a happy family there, Patriot. Can you confirm that the level sequence is L-M-H? Thanks.
> 
> Geoff




Yes it sure is! 




> *Beacon of Light
> *Is it truly Low/medium/high? Have they finally decided to do the obvious.


Sure is and I might add that they actually started doing this a long time ago with the AA light.


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## Beacon of Light (May 11, 2010)

Yeah I know, I have 4 of the AA ones. I meant finally doing this for the AAA models.



Patriot said:


> Yes it sure is!
> 
> 
> 
> Sure is and I might add that they actually started doing this a long time ago with the AA light.


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## Mockingbird (May 11, 2010)

Anyone plan to coat their copper flashlight with lacquer to prevent tarnishing?


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## Beacon of Light (May 11, 2010)

Mockingbird said:


> Anyone plan to coat their copper flashlight with lacquer to prevent tarnishing?



Wouldn't that mess up the heat dissipation with lacquer coating the outside of the light?


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## Mockingbird (May 11, 2010)

I think that even with a thin coating of lacquer, the copper would still dissipate heat better than aluminum, but I don't know.


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## Beacon of Light (May 11, 2010)

Well not to hijack but I did want to post a heads up I will do a Maratac Copper AAA (Low/Medium/High) Group buy for the people in the US that want one or more of these Copper Maratac AAA's that have the preferred low/medium/high UI.


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## Patriot (May 11, 2010)

Just posted the Youtube review here

I made it late last night so please bare with ....


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## applevision (May 11, 2010)

Must... resist... my 4th Maratac AAA... must try.... 

ugh... Copper... so... gorgeous... such a cool metal... want to put it on my keychain... yet my QMini 123 is so perfect in Ti...

Help me, CPF friends! You're my only hope!


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## Beacon of Light (May 11, 2010)

Do itttttttttttttttt!!!!! Resistance is futile!


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## sabre7 (May 11, 2010)

Just wondering about the conductivity of the copper when it eventually turns brown with oxidation like a penny... will that affect the operation, and will the contact area at the end of the tube and/or threads always need to be kept shiny?


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## rumack (May 11, 2010)

applevision said:


> Must... resist... my 4th Maratac AAA... must try....
> 
> ugh... Copper... so... gorgeous... such a cool metal... want to put it on my keychain... yet my QMini 123 is so perfect in Ti...
> 
> Help me, CPF friends! You're my only hope!



You're looking to a bunch of flashlight geeks for help in *not* buying a sweet looking solid copper flashlight? You chose ... poorly. :devil:

My concern would be the tint. I seem to remember a lot of people saying they got the angry blue tint with their aluminum or stainless Maratac AAA, but that might have just been the usual tint lottery issues. Too bad these aren't a guaranteed tint like, say, neutral white.


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## Nebuchadnezzar (May 11, 2010)

Beacon of Light said:


> Do itttttttttttttttt!!!!! Resistance is futile!



I thought it was just voltage divided by current...


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## applevision (May 12, 2010)

rumack said:


> You're looking to a bunch of flashlight geeks for help in *not* buying a sweet looking solid copper flashlight? You chose ... poorly. :devil:
> 
> My concern would be the tint. I seem to remember a lot of people saying they got the angry blue tint with their aluminum or stainless Maratac AAA, but that might have just been the usual tint lottery issues. Too bad these aren't a guaranteed tint like, say, neutral white.



Methinks I doth protest too much...:naughty:


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## Patriot (May 12, 2010)

rumack said:


> My concern would be the tint. I seem to remember a lot of people saying they got the angry blue tint with their aluminum or stainless Maratac AAA, but that might have just been the usual tint lottery issues.




Going back in memory I don't remember tint being one of the complaints associated with the AAA. They're using the well sorted out XP-E and have since the beginning. There was grumbling about CC's shipping cost and the key ring attachment strength but that's about it. 




Update: I cleaned the threads and head with a bit of white gas and re-lubed everything, which has taken care of the minor mode selection issues I ran into.


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## Nebuchadnezzar (May 14, 2010)




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## Patriot (May 15, 2010)

Nebuchadnezzar, those are nice close macro's. Just a reminder, the maximum allowed image size is 800x800 so you'll want to size those down a little bit. 

How are you liking your new light?


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## Nebuchadnezzar (May 15, 2010)

Fixed, sorry didn't remember that rule.

It's a great little light, if only the SS models were low-med-hi I would of bought several by now. 

Here's a size comparison shot with a Lighthound freebie and a .45 Golden Saber.


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## s.c. (May 22, 2010)

Patriot said:


> It's not switching on to high perfectly each time so perhaps I just need to clean the threads. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-uXt1vOmzZk&feature=player_embedded



Does anyone else have this problem? Its driving me insane. My regular aaa works flawlessly, but if I put the regular head on the copper body, I have the same issue of it skipping modes (or not changing modes at all).


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## Chauncey Gardner (May 22, 2010)

Nebuchadnezzar said:


> Fixed, sorry didn't remember that rule.
> 
> It's a great little light, if only the SS models were low-med-hi I would of bought several by now.
> 
> Here's a size comparison shot with a Lighthound freebie and a .45 Golden Saber.


 
Thanks, that's a good shot. I had always thought they looked larger than the ITP, but it's more the styling I think.

Need to pick a couple of these up. Sweet little light & love the solid copper.


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## jtivat (May 22, 2010)

s.c. said:


> Does anyone else have this problem? Its driving me insane. My regular aaa works flawlessly, but if I put the regular head on the copper body, I have the same issue of it skipping modes (or not changing modes at all).



Yes mine does this also.


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## Let It Bleed (May 22, 2010)

Just got a copper and a nat. alum. AAA Maratac and the copper was more difficult to change modes. After some use it's better. I did notice that I had to twist it a little farther to get consistent mode changes. Also have to twist it on tighter, which makes one hand mode changes a little more difficult.

I checked function by using both hands and being deliberate in twisting it a little farther than necessary. Since everything worked doing this, I'm confident mine just needs some use and a little clean/lube to slick up the action.

I hope we'll see more copper lights in the future.


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## Patriot (May 22, 2010)

s.c. said:


> Does anyone else have this problem? Its driving me insane. My regular aaa works flawlessly, but if I put the regular head on the copper body, I have the same issue of it skipping modes (or not changing modes at all).




Did you clean the threads good with alcohol? Mine had the same issue at first but after I cleaned it the copper version is behaving perfectly.


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## Zatoichi (May 27, 2010)

These look cool, I love the copper ones. I wish they'd ship overseas.


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## rumack (May 29, 2010)

What's the consensus on the operation of the copper model? Does it seem to be a manufacturing issue or is it just a matter of clean and lube? They look sweet but I have no interest if it is just going to be annoying to use.


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## TITAN1833 (May 29, 2010)

rumack said:


> What's the consensus on the operation of the copper model? Does it seem to be a manufacturing issue or is it just a matter of clean and lube? They look sweet but I have no interest if it is just going to be annoying to use.



I'll just say this: copper loves heat and it retains it pretty well,unless you blow on it the north wind


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## Nebuchadnezzar (May 29, 2010)

rumack said:


> What's the consensus on the operation of the copper model? Does it seem to be a manufacturing issue or is it just a matter of clean and lube? They look sweet but I have no interest if it is just going to be annoying to use.



I cleaned and lubed my first one, aside from needing to wipe some excess lube off the contact it works perfectly. 

My very picky wife opened hers I tossed a battery in it and it's worked flawlessly without a gripe from her.

I've got three and they are great little lights.


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## rumack (May 29, 2010)

Cool. Thanks!


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## Patriot (May 30, 2010)

Mine has been running great! No issues since cleaning it.


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## s.c. (May 30, 2010)

mine seems to be working much better now as well. its not 100%, but it is definitely acceptable.

its a great light, it looks different each day due to the patina.


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## osalsa (Jun 7, 2010)

I've been using my Maratac for about two weeks now, and it has replaced the Fenix E01 on my neck lanyard for everyday, 360 days a year, every waking moment EDC. At least for now. Time will tell. I really hope it is as dependable as the E01. I tried the Liteflux LF2 several years ago. It worked for a week. The second one went for two weeks. I finally lost patience with the long shipping times back and forth to Hong Kong, and went back to my trusty Fenix. The obvious benefit with the LF2 or Maratac is the option for brighter light when you need it. In my case, 9 times out of 10 the low power is sufficient, even preferable. But when you do need more lumens, how nice it is to have the option!

The lower output of the Maratac on low vs the E01 is offset by the tighter beam of the Maratac. You just have to aim it a little better, that's all. Amazing how much control you have with a little flashlight in your teeth. (just wrap a few turns of fabric tape around the bite area to save your chompers) 

I have just one gripe. And I see that it is shared by many others: I want low level light with one twist, not two! For me, the present setup requires two twists instead of one ninety percent of the time. That also means that the incredible runtime on low is significantly reduced by the short duration of medium level nine out of ten times I use the flashlight! Call me obsessive/compulsive, but I hate wasting the light I don't need! Please, Maratac, if you are reading this, and for the sake of all those who share this view, Please, make the flashlight with a LMH control sequence!! :wave:

ps: After posting this, I called countycomm.com and they told me the copper version is already LMH, and their next run of aluminum and stainless lites will be LMH. If I missed this information in previous posts, please excuse.


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## compasillo (Jun 7, 2010)

osalsa said:


> I have just one gripe. And I see that it is shared by many others: I want low level light with one twist, not two! For me, the present setup requires two twists instead of one ninety percent of the time. That also means that the incredible runtime on low is significantly reduced by the short duration of medium level nine out of ten times I use the flashlight! Call me obsessive/compulsive, but I hate wasting the light I don't need! Please, Maratac, if you are reading this, and for the sake of all those who share this view, Please, make the flashlight with a LMH control sequence!! :wave:



They did on the Maratac AAA Cu and AA series...

I've just received a couple of Maratacs Cu today and they are a beauty.
The beam is a bit tighter than the SS and Al versions and the output is also lower
(naked eye, not measured).

Copper leaves a distinctive smell in the hand that may not be pleasant for some.
Anyway, after trying the four versions of this miniature flashlight I prefer the SS and that will continue in my pocket ...
As for the reliable operation of the Cu I have to say that in the first few minutes the mode change was so erratic but 
after cleaning the contacts with a little deoxit operation is perfect now.


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## gunga (Jun 7, 2010)

osalsa said:


> ps: After posting this, I called countycomm.com and they told me the copper version is already LMH, and their next run of aluminum and stainless lites will be LMH. If I missed this information in previous posts, please excuse.


 
Nice, did they mention anything about nuetral tint or XP-G?


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## Patriot (Jun 7, 2010)

I think that they've decided against the XP-G for the time being, in order to keep the price down. Early on they were having trouble sourcing the XP-G but it would be a nice upgrade in the future if price and availability allow.


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## osalsa (Jun 7, 2010)

Gunga, no mention of tints. He did say that the stainless and aluminum lights will be in the same production run, and that might occur in the fall(ish).


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## gunga (Jun 8, 2010)

Cool, thanks for the info, I guess I'll just keep what I have (unglued) and keep ugrading myself!

lovecpf


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## fyrstormer (Jun 12, 2010)

s.c. said:


> Does anyone else have this problem? Its driving me insane. My regular aaa works flawlessly, but if I put the regular head on the copper body, I have the same issue of it skipping modes (or not changing modes at all).


Mine did this for a while after I washed it. I left the head sitting on a halogen desk lamp overnight to dry out any moisture inside, and it's worked fine ever since.

The threads are not part of the conductive path, so it doesn't matter electrically if they're dirty.


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## Patriot (Jun 30, 2010)

Are the Maratac AAA lights waterproof?

Find out below. I just made this video yesterday.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwfAKmlbv7w


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## compasillo (Jun 30, 2010)

Well done video review :thumbsup:

BTW, your fishes may need some live food...


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## MKLight (Jul 2, 2010)

+1 - Good video Patriot! :twothumbs


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## Patriot (Jul 4, 2010)

MKLight said:


> +1 - Good video Patriot! :twothumbs




Thanks MKLight! It's fun to make ones like this. Light testing is one of my favorite subjects.


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## sabre7 (Jul 4, 2010)

Removing the spring and cleaning off any shmutz in the tube underneath it with alcohol or DeOxyit on a cotton swab seems to also help improve contact and operation.


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## calipsoii (Jul 17, 2010)

Just received my Maratac Cu and I'm experiencing the same issue with the modes not changing properly. The light will always come on properly in Low, will switch to Medium properly 60% of the time (otherwise stay in Low) and has real problems getting to High (maybe 40% success). It'll do interesting things like jump from Medium to Low, or Low to Low. It's been thoroughly cleaned and relubed, which only seemed to help for a few minutes.

Fresh out of the box, the copper contacts on the circuit board in the head appears scratched and unevenly etched. Let me show you a picture:







See those scratches on the left and right of the contact on the PCB? They were there when I got it, and I don't think tightening/loosening has helped them any. I've carefully checked the body for nicks/burs/edges and it's pretty darn smooth. My only guess is that they're messing with how the body touches the head and it's causing mode-jumping, etc. Thoughts?


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## calipsoii (Jul 17, 2010)

Just an update to my post above:

The strange level jumping seems entirely tied to how loose I make the head when I switch modes. If I twist it just a tiny 1/16th turn (just enough to make the LED turn off) then twist it back on, the results are unpredictable. If I turn it way more, like 1/4-1/2 of a turn, then back on, it switches modes. All my other AAA twisties (L0D, LD01, E01) need only a tiny flick off then on to jump modes, but if I give this one a good half-twist, it works pretty darn reliably.

Hopefully that helps anyone else having problems, just get used to really torquing it off and back on.


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## Flying Turtle (Jul 17, 2010)

Maybe a good sanding of the end of the battery tube would improve mode changing.

Geoff


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## torchfreak (Jul 17, 2010)

I had the same trouble with a couple of iTP EOS A2's (same light, I think)

They were dirty and needed cleaning on all internal parts. This helped significantly, but the biggest improvement came from sanding the top of the battery tube. :thumbsup: 
Once all that was done, applied a decent lube (I initially made the mistake of using vaseline :shakehead)

I must admit I have been surprised at the amount of work required to get brand new lights to work properly - Maratac & iTP certainly are not alone in this regard. 
Zebralight stand out in my limited experience as excellent quality lights that work perfectly out of the box.

Thankfully we have CPF to help us learn and share lovecpf


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## Cuso (Jul 17, 2010)

Flying Turtle said:


> Maybe a good sanding of the end of the battery tube would improve mode changing.
> 
> Geoff


All of the Maratacs in my group buys got this treatment before going out. And I tried to check them all by running them trough the modes , but since its an intermittent issue it can be overlooked . Unfortunately with the coppers I try not to open the packages so the buyer can receive the item sealed. 

I did noticed on some of mine some amount of the sealing glue in the head seeped to the contact points, its some clear gooey stuff. The one im trying to tarnish did not even work out of the box, I had to clean the gooey stuff to get it to work. 

Mode skipping its never 100% accurate , but that's a feature inherent of all twisty lights...


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## Patriot (Jul 18, 2010)

Flying Turtle said:


> Maybe a good sanding of the end of the battery tube would improve mode changing.
> 
> Geoff





+1 to that.

After cleaning, this is the single most effective thing at "fixing" a twisty light from unpredictable mode changing. 

Hopefully you got the light sorted out calipsoii.


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## calipsoii (Jul 18, 2010)

Flying Turtle said:


> Maybe a good sanding of the end of the battery tube would improve mode changing.
> 
> Geoff



Thanks for the suggestion. I took 600 grit wet-sand paper to the end of the battery tube and it's silky smooth now. Unfortunately it didn't help with the mode jumping, but it did remove a tiny edge that was biting into the PCB. 

I can definitely live with the erratic switching, it's just a bit of a nuisance. The light never fails to turn on (as a good keychain backup should) and after only 3 days it's already getting a gorgeous patina.


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## Gregozedobe (Jul 21, 2010)

compasillo said:


> ...... Cu today and they are a beauty. The beam is a bit tighter than the SS and Al versions and the output is also lower (naked eye, not measured).
> 
> As for the reliable operation of the Cu I have to say that in the first few minutes the mode change was so erratic but after cleaning the contacts with a little deoxit operation is perfect now.


 
I've just been comparing my 2 new Maratac AAA Cu lights with my 3 ITP A3 EOS lights (with 1.2v Ni-mh rechargables, 1.7v lithium primaries and 3.7V li-ion rechargables). Note this is a small sample, so other examples may be different.

I had no issues with mode changing on either of the Cu's (straight out of the box, no cleaning, no sanding).

The beam on both my Cu's had a noticeably larger hotspot, but the centre of the hotspot was less intense and slightly yellow when compared with the hotspot on the A3s. In outside use the effect was a floodier (and therefore less throw) beam for the Cu lights. 

IIRC Lo and Medium seemed slightly brighter on the A3s for most of the battery types. 

So if you prefer longer throw the A3 is slightly better, if you like flood then the Cu may suit you better (but there isn't really that much difference really, and they are both small lights with relatively shallow reflectors after all).

When running (unprotected) 10440's the extra mass of the Cu lights definitely allowed them to run for noticeably longer on Hi before getting hotter than I like, but they did retain that heat for longer too (as you would expect). I don't use Hi for very long, so it hasn't been a problem for me even on the A3s (famous last words ?  )

All in all I like the Cu, mainly for the new interface (L/M/H); but I'll probably still try out some of the new Al ones with the L/M/H sequence when CountyComm start to sell them.

Sorry, no beam shots, but if you have any specific questions about comparative illumination levels (by eye, not measured) with particular batteries PM me and I'll see what I can tell you.

I would like to give everyone a *warning* about using either the Trustfire or Ultrafire protected 10440 batteries in the Maratac AAA SS and Illumina Ti AAA lights - they seem to be too long for these lights. When I tightened them down they seem to have damaged something inside the light engine (pill) and now these two lights don't turn off when you slightly unscrew the head (I often have to unscrew the head completely to get them to switch off).

These batteries also seem a bit fat at the base (presumably the extra protection circuit) to fit in the body of most of my AAA lights.


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## fishx65 (Jul 26, 2010)

Just got the three polished stainless ones I ordered. Now I know why everyone keeps talking about these things!!!!! All three seem to have the same beam pattern and brightness and the tint is pretty darn close between them. Can't believe how bright a little aaa torch can be and I'm just using NiMh. One question: what's the best way to make the threads SUPER SMOOTH?


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## compasillo (Jul 27, 2010)

fishx65 said:


> Just got the three polished stainless ones I ordered. One question: what's the best way to make the threads SUPER SMOOTH?



From my experience, the polished SS is the only one on the Maratac AAA series that
hasn't a very very smooth action. The other models are unbeateable on this and have one of the
best twist action I found in a AAA light, being the SS not polished the best for me.
I suggest you clean the thread and put a bit of nano-oil 10w on it.

Some of my Maratac's


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## osalsa (Aug 25, 2010)

That's a fine looking bunch of flashlights! I've been wearing my aluminum Maratac AAA around my neck for several months now, and it has surpassed my expectations, big time. The switch logic has performed without a glitch, and even though I use low power 99 percent of the time, the medium setting has evolved from being a luxury to becoming a necessity. I gotta say that I was satisfied with the Fenix EO1 for some years, but after living with the Maratac AAA, I hope I never have to go back to a single, low level EDC. I've even gotten used to the annoyance of switching through medium power to get to low intensity, which, as I said, I use the vast majority of the time. (Maratac: take heed!) The interesting thing is that, even the thousand separate instants that medium is illuminated on the way to low intensity don't seem to have affected the battery life much. I know that is not logical, but the bottom line is that a lithium AAA battery seems to last forever in this flashlight. 

All in all, this is simply a great flashlight. At age 61, I would sooner leave the house without my wallet than without my EDC, and the Maratac AAA has raised the bar for those flashlights which become a constant companion.


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## Gregozedobe (Aug 25, 2010)

osalsa said:


> ........ I've even gotten used to the annoyance of switching through medium power to get to low intensity, which, as I said, I use the vast majority of the time. (Maratac: take heed!)


 
ITP have recently started selling a new version of their AAA A3 EOS that does have the L/M/H sequence you like, and I've heard rumours that Maratac will be doing the same later this year. I also prefer the L/M/H sequence, but others (a substantial minority ?) seem to like the M/L/H sequence.


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## Inliner (Aug 28, 2010)

Does anyone know if the new version (or the current?) is using a higher PWM freq? I searched thread but no results. I guess this doesn't bother most?


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## Link Archer VI (Aug 29, 2010)

I think the new versions of the iTPs and Maratacs with L/M/H sequence are supposed to have a higher PWM frequency.


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## Gregozedobe (Sep 6, 2010)

My newer (L/M/H) Maratac Cu and ITP AAA lights both have significantly higher PWM frequency (but my older Maratac and ITP lights with the slower PWM didn't bother me much)

I've just been told by someone from Maratac sales that they *hope* to start selling the L/M/H versions of their Aluminium and Stainless steel AAA lights in October (the Cu version has always been L/M/H).

I wish they would sell to non-US buyers so I could purchase direct from them


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## SteveStephens (Sep 6, 2010)

I am very pleased with the three Maratacs I ordered and received last week. Somehow I was thinking the newest lights were now Low/Med/High but only the AA Maratac came that way with the AAA Nat. Al and bead blasted SS lights in the old Med/Low/High format. For me I think the old way works best the way I use the lights.


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## RGB_LED (Sep 8, 2010)

My Maratacs (alu, ss, polished ss) all seem to work fine, with the exception of one ss aaa that I gave to a friend of mine about 2 months ago. Apparently, it stays on High and doesn't turn off unless he removes the battery. I told him to clean the contacts but that doesn't seem to help. Is it possible that twisting it on too hard has an adverse affect on the pcb / driver? I'm at a loss for suggesting anything else since there isn't much that you can do other than take apart the head. Any suggestions?


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## syncytial (Sep 8, 2010)

RGB_LED said:


> My Maratacs (alu, ss, polished ss) all seem to work fine, with the exception of one ss aaa that I gave to a friend of mine about 2 months ago. Apparently, it stays on High and doesn't turn off unless he removes the battery. I told him to clean the contacts but that doesn't seem to help. Is it possible that twisting it on too hard has an adverse affect on the pcb / driver? I'm at a loss for suggesting anything else since there isn't much that you can do other than take apart the head. Any suggestions?




See this thread.


- Syncytial.


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## RGB_LED (Sep 9, 2010)

syncytial said:


> See this thread.
> 
> 
> - Syncytial.


Thanks Syncytial. I'll check out the thread. :thumbsup:


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## biker1 (Sep 16, 2010)

I just came across the multiple threads on the Maratac AAA.
First time I have heard of this light, and it seems like a really nice one, especially a 'AAA' light.
I was thinking to send the Aluminum Natural HAlll to my Parents. They use a Maglite AA at the present time 

Should I wait till October for the L-M-H, or is the M-L-H fine. I guess it's a personal preference.
Is there anything worth waiting for in the version coming out in October, besides the switch sequence?

I just saw there is a 'AA' version. I'll check the specs on that one also.

Edit: 
I just read the specs on the 'AA' and that's the one I'll get them. Longer run time, in addition to being 8o lumens on high, plus still very compact.

I will call Maratac re:
-Switch sequence
-any changes coming in October releases

Any feedback regarding issues with the 'AA' is appreciated.


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## kaichu dento (Sep 16, 2010)

biker1 said:


> I was thinking to send the Aluminum Natural HAlll to my Parents. They use a Maglite AA at the present time
> 
> Should I wait till October for the L-M-H, or is the M-L-H fine. I guess it's a personal preference.


If you got them a couple of the copper ones, they've already got the low>med>high sequence. The copper or flat finish SS are my two favorite Maratacs as they have such a nice feel, finish and for a gift they really are hard to beat.


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## biker1 (Sep 16, 2010)

The copper version is real nice, but to keep the copper nice & shiny may be an issue, as copper oxidizes quickly.


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## kaichu dento (Sep 16, 2010)

There's two schools of thought on light made of easily tarnishable materials and I belong to the one that likes the patina. Heck, there's even a thread on the progress of tarnishing on the Cu Maratac. 
If you don't think they'd be into the Cu then the SS is hard to beat.


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## biker1 (Sep 16, 2010)

After seeing the specs on the 'AA," I've decided to get the 'AA" in black for my Parents, and I'm going to get the 'AAA" in Copper (or maybe wait for the 'AA' copper version, if made available  ) I personally would like the patina.
I saw a video on the 'AAA' copper version, and it appeared the lumens were less, as it may have been driven at a lower amperage. Would this be accurate, or maybe there was an issue with the test I saw.
How is the heat conductivity of the copper vs. aluminum?


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## Gregozedobe (Sep 17, 2010)

biker1 said:


> I saw a video on the 'AAA' copper version, and it appeared the lumens were less, as it may have been driven at a lower amperage. Would this be accurate, or maybe there was an issue with the test I saw.
> How is the heat conductivity of the copper vs. aluminum?


 
I've seen discussion that suggests the M/L/H sequence is better for non-flashaholics as they get enough light for most purposes (ie Medium) with a single twist, and if they forget there are two other levels available then it doesn't really matter. A L/M/H light may get dismissed as "not bright enough" if they forget to give the extra twists. IIRC The AAA and AA Maratacs have similar levels of brightness (but longer run times for the AA version of course).

If I compare my Maratac AAA SS and Cu lights (both on eneloops) the Cu hotspot is slightly larger but less intense, which means slightly wider illumination but less throw (but not a big difference unless you really look for it).

The heat conductivity of the Maratac AAA lights is a non-issue unless you intend to run Hi with 10440 batteries, in which case I'd recommend the Cu version as it's greater mass seems to soak up the heat better (I run a 10440 IMR battery in my Cu, but only for up to 30 seconds on Hi at a time).


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## biker1 (Sep 17, 2010)

@ Gregozedobe
Thanks for your input.
Btw, the video of the copper 'AAA' looked considerably less bright than the other 2 in the video.
_
I spoke with someone at Maratac (I could not understand the pronunciation of his name) but he said that the sequence is M-L-H, and there are no plans for L-M-H in October. He said the sequence has changed 3x? due to the input received here._

M-L-H as you say, is especially good for my parents for the reasons you stated.
The 'AA' accessibility is a big plus, as it also has a nice output.
I use a CR123A light for everyday carry, and will get the Cu version as it is real nice looking, in addition to being a very well made light, and I can slip it my pocket as a back up 
But I may wait for the 'AA" Cu version, if Maratac decides to make it. i think they may.


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## Gregozedobe (Sep 18, 2010)

biker1 said:


> _I spoke with someone at Maratac (I could not understand the pronunciation of his name) but he said that the sequence is M-L-H, and there are no plans for L-M-H in October. He said the sequence has changed 3x? due to the input received here._
> 
> M-L-H as you say, is especially good for my parents for the reasons you stated.
> The 'AA' accessibility is a big plus, as it also has a nice output.


 
Hmm, it seems not everyone at Countycomm are on the same page, recently I received an email from 'sales' at Countycomm (in reply to my question about availability of L/M/H AAA lights) and their reply was


> Hopefully end of october...


Given that these lights are made by ITP and ITP are already shipping L/M/H AAA EOS A3 lights I'd put my money on Countycomm also having them with L/M/H in the not too distant future. 

Remember to tell your parents about the L/M/H sequence of the Maratac/ITP AA lights (IIRC they have never made a AA M/L/H version)


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## biker1 (Sep 18, 2010)

Thanks.
I tried to call Maratac to verify the sequence on Friday, but no answer. Phone kept ringing.
I will call on Monday, or send an email.


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## Inliner (Sep 22, 2010)

Just got my Maratac Cu today. It has such a great feel in the hand and is so much easier to pocket cary than 123 lights (my first AAA). No issues here other than wanting to tell everyone to be careful installing the clip. The copper body is rather soft and the steel clip will dig in as you try and push it into place


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## biker1 (Sep 25, 2010)

compasillo said:


> From my experience, the polished SS is the only one on the Maratac AAA series that
> hasn't a very very smooth action. The other models are unbeateable on this and have one of the
> best twist action I found in a AAA light, being the SS not polished the best for me.
> I suggest you clean the thread and put a bit of nano-oil 10w on it.
> ...



Nice Pic :thumbsup:

I just ordered the AAA Copper and the AA Polished Stainless.
Is the beam and output the same for the AAA copper as it is for the AAA aluminum?
I ask because I saw a video where the copper has a lower output high beam and a tint compared to the aluminum.
CountyComm said that the drivers and LEDs on both are the same, or should be.
Maybe it was a bad AAA in the video.
Also, what is the sequence in your AAA and AA copper?
L-M-H?
M-H-L?
They may vary between AAAs and AAs depending on the finish?


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## biker1 (Sep 25, 2010)

Gregozedobe said:


> My newer (L/M/H) Maratac Cu and ITP AA lights both have significantly higher PWM frequency (but my older Maratac and ITP lights with the slower PWM didn't bother me much)
> 
> I've just been told by someone from Maratac sales that they *hope* to start selling the L/M/H versions of their Aluminium and Stainless steel AAA lights in October (the Cu version has always been L/M/H).
> 
> I wish they would sell to non-US buyers so I could purchase direct from them



I am a little  as I spoke with someone the other day at CountyComm who said the sequence is M-L-H for the AA with no plans to change it in October.
I will speak with Michael on Monday to get clarification.


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## whill44 (Sep 26, 2010)

Just posted my order for a black and stainless aa with a black, stainless and copper aaa. I know, I know, but just couldn't stop pressing the button in time. :twothumbs Now I'm broke...


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## fishx65 (Oct 5, 2010)

Just did the heatshrink trick to one of my aaa SS Maratacs and it worked out awesome. I like to reverse the clips and use them as headlamps but the weak clips just pop right off when switching modes. I just put about 1/2 inch of heatshrink over the clip were it snaps on the body. Been using the little Maratac every night to get out of my deer hunting spots.


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## biker1 (Oct 5, 2010)

Received the AAA Copper. A really nice light. Pretty bright for a small light. Nice little flood action going on.
Confirmed mode sequence, without memory >
L - M - H

Also received the AA polished stainless steel light, But i didn't get to see it because I direct shipped to my parents. They really like it, and confirm mode sequence, without memory >
L - M - H

Too bad the AA will be sitting in the glove box of a car. Seems such a shame to hide such a good looking light 
But when needed, I am sure it will perform to the best of it's ability, unless it's  about being hidden away.


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## cdesigns (Oct 20, 2010)

God my Maratac AAA yesterday, this little thing really shines on a single AAA, I cant wait to test 10440 on this one.

One thing I can say is that they have a real thick anodized coating on them, I laser engraved mine and it took me 3-4 passes to get the art done on a 40watt laser engraver.

I graphic got damaged but its not bad. I will buy another one next week. excellent light.

I will be taking this light apart to have it polished so I will show the internals soon.
More info on my engraving here


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## Sparky's Magic (Aug 11, 2011)

rumack said:


> What's the consensus on the operation of the copper model? Does it seem to be a manufacturing issue or is it just a matter of clean and lube? They look sweet but I have no interest if it is just going to be annoying to use.



Mine was a little gritty out of the foil but after a thorough clean with alcohol, kitchen towel and a couple of tooth-picks, it was clean and free; then a good lube, not forgetting to roll the o-ring in lube between the thumb and forefinger, and now the Maratac Cu. has the smoothest action of any of my 'lights...(and I have a few!). :thumbsup:


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## StandardBattery (Aug 11, 2011)

Sparky's Magic said:


> Mine was a little gritty out of the foil but after a thorough clean with alcohol, kitchen towel and a couple of tooth-picks, it was clean and free; then a good lube, not forgetting to roll the o-ring in lube between the thumb and forefinger, and now the Maratac Cu. has the smoothest action of any of my 'lights...(and I have a few!). :thumbsup:


I wonder if CountyComm is getting new AAA lights if they will be like the new iTP Lights (now Olight i3) with the screw on clip. I'd like to see that, but it's not reversable so that will mess some people up, and reduce the flexibility of the light. Maybe Maratac will stick with the existing clip.


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## shelm (Feb 13, 2012)

which emitter options exist for the Maratac AAA?
is it still Q5 only


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## Gregozedobe (Feb 14, 2012)

If you look on their web site (countycomm.com) they have specs for each light, most of them detail which emitter they have.


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## Patriot (Jun 15, 2012)

Many of us have been using 10440 batteries in these lights, some of us even use them exclusively. Recently a friend of mine dropped off a SS version that had been working but stopped working after a short time using 10440s. In the past, I usually just clean the threads or sand the front of the battery tube with some 400 grit and nonworking Maratacs start working again. This time though, the light really is dead.

Although some have experienced DOA lights this one was working and then stopped working, which leads me to lean toward the idea that it may have had something to do with the 10440. I'm not aware of any other reports of the 10440 killing a maratac so this just might be the first. This light came from a recent batch that was purchased within the last couple of months. Hopefully, this is just a fluke and not the result of a newer, lower quality pill of some type. 

I report this with most of us knowing that the Maratac was never designed to work with this cell, however I promised long ago that I'd post a brief if I ever suspected a 10440 cell to have damaged a light.


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## shelm (Jun 15, 2012)

Patriot said:


> Many of us have been using 10440 batteries in these lights, some of us even use them exclusively. Recently a friend of mine dropped off a SS version that had been working but stopped working after a short time using 10440s. In the past, I usually just clean the threads or sand the front of the battery tube with some 400 grit and nonworking Maratacs start working again. This time though, the light really is dead.
> 
> Although some have experienced DOA lights this one was working and then stopped working, which leads me to lean toward the idea that it may have had something to do with the 10440. I'm not aware of any other reports of the 10440 killing a maratac so this just might be the first. This light came from a recent batch that was purchased within the last couple of months. Hopefully, this is just a fluke and not the result of a newer, lower quality pill of some type.
> 
> I report this with most of us knowing that the Maratac was never designed to work with this cell, however I promised long ago that I'd post a brief if I ever suspected a 10440 cell to have damaged a light.



thanks Patriot for the report!!


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## Opstanak (Sep 18, 2012)

Maybe this will be a wrong thread to ask for this but here it goes.

Is there anybody that has the lower part (battery casing) of the Maratac AAA Black to sell? Battery leaked in mine and completely ruined it.


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## compasillo (Sep 19, 2012)

Opstanak said:


> Maybe this will be a wrong thread to ask for this but here it goes.
> 
> Is there anybody that has the lower part (battery casing) of the Maratac AAA Black to sell? Battery leaked in mine and completely ruined it.



You should post in the WTB Market Place forum


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