# REVIEW: Nitecore Concept 1 (C1) Flashlight



## Bdm82 (Jun 20, 2017)

*Introduction*

This light was provided free of charge by Nitecore Store for review. It shipped from their location in Texas. 
https://www.nitecorestore.com/Nitecore-Concept-1-p/fl-nite-c1.htm


The Concept 1, or C1, is the first and only light in the new Concept line from Nitecore. It is a departure from the familiar looks of other Nitecore lights, taking on a more modern and sleek design. The switch is a metal side switch, the tube is minimalist, and the pocket clip is attached with allen screws as used by many custom-made lights.

The Concept 1 features a Cree XHP35 HD E2 emitter and advertises maximum output of 1800 lumens when used with a high drain IMR18650 battery. The UI is very unique and a lockout at the tail cap should be performed when the C1 is not in use.


 

Here are the key review details in one table for the TL;DR crowd:





*Packaging*

The Concept 1 arrived in a retail box within a padded envelope. The Concept 1’s retail box is a departure from the usual Nitecore design, now being a sleek flat black box with minimal pictures and writing. It’s almost as if a certain company from Cupertino designed it.

Viewing the C1’s box next to the packaging for the EC4SW (late 2015) and SRT7GT (2017), the difference is quite obvious. 






The front has a glossy image of the Concept 1 along with the 1800 lumen claim, Concept 1 designation, and the Nitecore logo. Nothing more.

 
The back has the model name, the specifications, a two-line description of the Concept 1, and basic registration and safety information in white on the black background. Both sides are identical and only declare “Concept Series” in yellow.



​

 

A small piece of paper was sticking out of the top of the box. This piece of paper is a Quick Start Guide likely added by Nitecore Store to help new users. The UI of the C1 is very unique – and it appears Nitecore Store wanted to make sure users understood it and the need to lock the C1 out when not in use. (More on the UI further below.)

 

Opening the box, we find the C1 in a plastic carrier with the accessories underneath.

 

Included is a holster, manual, warranty card, spare o-rings, Nitecore product line pamphlet, lanyard, and pocket clip (attached to C1).

 

The manual is in 9 languages (English, Spanish, German, French, Polish, Japanese, Romanian, Chinese, and I believe Korean); each language’s section is complete as the text is quite small.

 

It can be accessed online here:
http://flashlight.nitecore.com/pdf/C1_UM_EN.pdf 


The Quick Start Guide simplifies the manual quite a bit.

 



*Design*

The Concept 1 is the most compact single 18650 light I’ve handled. Everything about it is clean and compact. The knurling is minimal and mild. The switch is moved to the outside to keep the tube tidy. The bezel is flat and simple. No ounces spared.

I measured the overall length at 111.5mm and head diameter at 24 mm. Weight was tested without battery at 62 g. 

The C1’s compact size is evident when put next to other lights. Even the Convoy S2+ and Manker E14 II are longer or wider, and heavier by 8 and 32 grams, respectively.
In this image, the C1 is in center. 
Left to right: Nitecore EC4SW (dual 18650), Nitecore SRT7GT (single 18650), Convoy S2+ (single 18650), Nitecore C1 (single 18650), Manker E14 II (single 18650), ThorFire C8S (single 18650), Olight R50 Pro (single 26650).

 

The head has all of the writing: Nitecore logo, website, model name, registration, and disposal information. The embossing is clear and easy to read.

 

The battery tube’s knurling is only towards the tail end of the light. It adds useful grip but overall is quite mild.

 

Just to the side of that embossing is the only other printing on the C1: The HOT logo.

 

The Concept 1’s unique switch is a rocker-style metal switch on the side of the head, close to the bezel. It has 3 small raised lines on it to add some feel. A phillips head screw goes through the switch into the body; the switch has a tiny amount of side-to-side play as the screw head has a small amount of space around it.

 

From the side, the way the switch functions is visible. The screw holds the switch to the light while a small pin further up the switch activates the tiny button underneath. When the switch is pressed, the screw does not move – the switch moves using the screw as a guide.

 

The bezel of the C1 is flat. When the C1 is placed head-down on a flat surface, no light can escape. So, the user must be careful to make sure the light is off before setting down this way to avoid draining the battery or damaging the surface.

 

The glass is AR-coated. The reflector is smooth and free of imperfections.

 

The Cree XHP35 HD E2 LED is perfectly centered.

 


The tail of the light is also flat and simple. It tailstands well. A magnet in the tail is strong enough to hold the C1 in place on sturdy and still objects (such as a refrigerator) but is too weak to hold keep the C1 in place when movement is present (such as in a moving vehicle).


The Concept 1 disassembles into 3 sections: head, body tube, and tail.

 

The head of the C1 has a raised positive terminal. It is compatible with flat and button top batteries.

 

The threads on the head end are square cut and very well lubricated.

 

The tail cap has a gold-colored spring. It is firm but was flexible enough to work with various protected and unprotected batteries I tested.

 

The tail threads are also square cut and well lubricated.




Both ends have o-rings for water ingress protection and Nitecore presents the light as having IPX-8 water resistance to 2 meters underwater. The C1 is also impact resistant to 1.5 meters.


The black pocket clip is attached with two allen screws. The design is simple and functional,and there are no bends or protrusions that’d hang up on clothing. The strength was a good balance - strong enough to keep the C1 in place on the brim of a hat but not so strong it requires two hands.

 

The included lanyard can attach via the hole in the pocket clip. It could also be attached to the switch as the screw through the switch would keep it from sliding off, but that doesn’t seem very practical. I expect few C1 owners to use the lanyard as there’s no nice way of attaching it,though the quality of the lanyard is good.

 

The holster fits the C1 well whether the C1 is stored head up or head down. It has a D-ring, belt pass-through loop, and hook-and-loop strap – offering useful flexibility. The bottom of the holster is closed so it is imperative that the C1 be locked out by loosening the tailcap before holstering the C1. The switch will get bumped in the holster, turning the C1 on if not locked out.

 



*Performance*

The smooth reflector produces a defined hotspot and corona surrounded by the spill. There are some rings within the beam due to the reflection off the bezel, though these are only noticeable indoors.

The color of the beam is a creamy neutral in the center but with a cooler blue in the spill. Where the two transition some green is present – though not very noticeable in real-world use due the brightness of the hotspot.

 

To demonstrate the relative color balance, here is the C1 flanked by lights with emitters of various tints and temperatures. 
L to R: Olight S1R with cool XM-L2, Astrolux S41S with neutral 219B, Nitecore EC4SW with neutral MT-G2, Nitecore C1 with cool XHP35 HD, Convoy S2+ with cool XM-L U2 1B, BLF348 with neutral 219B, and Lumintop Tool with warm 219B.

 

I found the tint to be similar to that found in cool XM-L emitters in other lights. 
L to R: Convoy S2+ with cool XM-L U2 1B, Nitecore C1 with XHP35 HD, ThorFire VG-15S with cool XL-L2, and Astrolux S41S with neutral 219B (for reference).

 


Nitecore rates the Concept 1 at 1800 lumens on Turbo when used with an 18650 battery capable of output current greater than 8A. The recommended IMR18650 3100mAh Nitecore battery is rated to sustain 10A. 

2xCR123A batteries can be used with the C1 but Turbo will not be accessible. If an 18650 incapable of sustaining 8A (as is the case with most protected cells) is used, the C1 will shut off immediately on Turbo and require the tail cap to be loosened to reset the circuit.

The Concept 1 also has Nitecore’s “Advanced Temperature Regulation module”, designed to keep the LED from overheating.

What I found in Turbo testing is that the C1’s ATR system was VERY active. At turn-on, the C1 output an impressive 2007 lumens with the Nitecore IMR18650 3100mAh 10A battery. But in just a few seconds, the ATR started to adjust the output. 

I tested multiple times with the Concept 1 at various starting temperatures and both with and without a cooling fan. At the 30 second mark, the output varied between 979 and 1444 lumens using the Nitecore 10A IMR cell. 

The test that produced 979 was with a hot light (previously on turbo), stationary, with no cooling. The test that produced 1444 lumens was performed with the C1 straight out of a freezer. Neither of these are typical testing scenarios and were excluded from the numbers reported below, but the disparity shows that the C1 is very susceptible to its own temperature and the ambient temperature. In most tests, the output was around 1350 lumens with 1372 being the result I reported on Turbo.

Nitecore rates Turbo at 1800 lumens and in some of my tests it held output at or above this level as long as 25 seconds – almost to the 30 second ANSI test standard. With the right scenario it could be possible, but whether 25 or 35 seconds, users should expect Turbo to truly be a short burst mode only. 


Also interesting is in that the ATR can both increase and decrease the output. In a “hot” test, I added a 80mm PC cooling fan after the light stepped down and saw the output go back up a fair amount.

From about 2000 lumens at turn on, the C1 dropped about 50 lumens in the first 15 seconds. Between 25 and 30 seconds the output dropped down to about 1320 lumens. It then leveled off at about 1.5 minutes into the test.

 

A gradual decline ensued through minute 92 when the C1 was down to 630 lumens. Three big step-downs occurred between minute 92 and minute 105; the light then held on at 2 lumens until minute 169 (2:49).

Nitecore states that Turbo should run for 30 minutes (0:30) “calculated based on theoretical arithmetic.” In reality, I found it took 92 minutes (1:32) to reach 50% output and 95 minutes (1:35) to reach 10% (ANSI runtime), exceeding Nitecore's calculated figure.

The test was conducted using a 10A IMR18650 3100mAh cell since that’s what was listed as the battery used in the official runtime rating. I had an 80mm PC fan running to produce some airflow. Ambient temp was 78F.

 

An unprotected LG HG2 cell produced a statistically similar output. 


The external temperature of the C1 never got uncomfortably hot to hold. With a single Turbo activation, indoors at 78F with no added cooling, the light topped out at 107F (41.6C). If I repeatedly activated Turbo, it climbed to as high as 122F (50C). 


Nitecore rates High at 810 lumens. I found 979 at 30 seconds in my testing. It held 950 lumens through 2.5 minutes before beginning a decline that would see it level off at 820 lumens at minute 7. From there the C1 held a fairly consistent output declining only to 685 lumens by minute 93. In the 12 minutes that followed from there, three significant step-downs occurred. 

Nitecore states that High should run for 90 minutes also “calculated based on theoretical arithmetic.” In reality, I found it took 95 minutes to reach 50% output and 98 minutes to reach 10% (ANSI runtime). Nitecore’s calculated rating is spot-on.

 

Medium is rated at 300 lumens. I found 351 in my testing with multiple tests producing quite consistent results (+/- 5 lumens). The output on Medium was also very well regulated; from 351 lumens at 30 seconds it maintained no less than 347 lumens through 4 hours and 6 minutes. It was at that point that output stepped below 50% to 89 lumens. At 4 hours and 12 minutes, the C1 dropped below 10% of its initial output. A runtime of 4 hours and 12 minutes is in line with Nitecore’s own 4 hour rating.

 

Nitecore rates Low at 80 lumens; I tested it at a close 83. Runtimes were not tested.


Finally, Nitecore rates Ultralow at 1 lumen. I found it to produce 2 lumens. Runtimes were not tested.


All outputs as tested:

 

All runtimes tested:

Note that Turbo and High follow a very similar curve after the first 5 minutes or so.


I tested throw distance at 1.46 meters and the resulting candela was 10,317 - equivalent to 203 meters of throw. Nitecore rates the C1 at 220 meters of throw. While my result was 17 meters off, I do not consider this difference significant as environmental and test variables will cause deviation especially given the short window the C1 maintains peak turbo output.


I did not detect PWM on any modes using cameras or the “mirror test”. Nitecore advertises the C1 is PWM-free, using “constant circuit”.


The battery measured between 2.88 and 2.93V after all tests. The over-discharge protection is good as this is a safe termination voltage!




*Outdoor Beamshots*

All photos taken with a Canon SD4000IS camera. 1/4" exposure, ISO800, Daylight white balance.
Approximate distances: White deck railing @ 15 ft., white fence in distance @ 75 ft., center of boat @ 100 ft.


Control shot:

 

Low:

 

Med:

 

High:

 

Turbo:
[Due to the hot summer temperature, Turbo had stepped down slightly when the image was captured. I didn't realize this initially; I’ll be attempting a re-take.]





*Interface*

The Concept 1 uses a very unique interface.

To start, it has General and Tactical modes. General is the default selection and will likely be the favorite of most owners.

From off, a single quick press of the side switch does nothing.
From off, a long press returns to the last used mode (mode memory).
From off, a press and hold returns to the last mode used and begins to cycle upward. When released, the C1 will remain on that mode.
From off, a double press turns on Ultralow.
From off, a triple press turns on Turbo.***

While on, a single press turns the C1 off.
While on, a press and hold activates momentary Turbo. It returns to the previous mode when released.
While on, a triple press turns on Strobe. Press and hold cycles through SOS and Beacon modes Strobe from there.

***If Tactical mode is activated (disabling General mode) by holding the side switch while tightening the tailcap, triple press from off goes to Strobe instead of Turbo. Even in Tactical mode, holding the switch while the C1 is on will activate momentary turbo.


One advantage of this complex UI is that the light can turn on in Ultralow, Turbo, or the mode last used. Another is that momentary turbo can be accessed at any time without the need for an additional switch like found on the TM03.

The notable disadvantage is that the C1, with its external and easily-pressed switch, will turn on in a pocket or holster if not locked out. The mechanical lockout (by unscrewing the tail cap slightly) MUST be used. Nitecore communicates this in the manual with “When the product is not in use, it is advised to loosen the tail cap to prevent accidental activation.” The Quick Start Guide that Nitecore Store included states “To prevent accidental activation, loosen the tail cap ¼ turn when not in use.” 

When the tail cap is tightened, the C1 will display battery voltage by flashing the LED. If the battery is 3.8 volts, for example, the LED will give 3 blinks, pause, then flash 8 times more. I did notice it indicates 4.1V when a battery is fresh off a charger though I expected to see 4.2. 

Pressing the switch while the C1 is flashing the voltage will stop the voltage check and turn the C1 on.




*Problems*

No problems were experienced while testing the C1. 




*Commentary*

This light is unlike any other mass-produced light. It seems to take many design cues from custom builders. Sleek. Minimalist. Classy. No other 18650-based lights that I own are this compact or can match the C1’s balance of output and weight.

It is a bit annoying having to turn the light off before being able to cycle between modes once already in use, though the momentary access to Turbo makes up for it to me. Hold the button, get Turbo, release, and you’re back to where you were. As ATR steps Turbo down fairly quickly anyway, this momentary burst is the way I’d expect most users to use Turbo.

I also appreciate that the C1 is compatible with button or flat top cells – something not common with all Nitecore lights. The C1 can use most high drain unprotected cells that owners may have like LG HG2, Samsung 30Q, or Sony VTC5A. The optional Nitecore IMR18650 10A performs very well for those that prefer to go with the OEM-recommended battery.

The lumen count is quite good. Turn-on output north of 2000 lumens is a pleasant surprise though the fall-off due to the heat is very fast. The heatsinking does not sustain the output as long as the Manker E14II or Nitecore TM03, but the C1 remains much more comfortable to hold while retaining the small form factor and light weight. It’s a reasonable trade-off, but those who need long Turbo performance will need to seek larger lights.

The XHP35 HD's cool tint might not agree with everyone, yet the beam itself has a very practical balance of flood and throw that makes it a good general purpose or EDC light.

It’s also good to have options with the pocket clip, lanyard, holster, magnetic tail, and spare o-rings included – though lanyard attachment is a bit awkward.

*Overall the C1 is a classy looking, comfortable to carry compact light with a lot of power for short duration Turbo use. The unique UI and need to lock out at the tail when not in use will likely be the deciding factors for most potential buyers.*

Nitecore backs the Concept 1 with a 5 year warranty.


As a final note I cannot stress enough: *Users should perform a tail cap lockout whenever the light is not in use*. Whether in a pocket, in the holster, or just on a shelf where children can reach, locking out the C1 is critical. I own several other lights that I lock out whenever I pocket but none have as sensitive of a switch as the C1. During testing I put it in the holster without it locked out once by accident and found the holster literally smoking shortly after. Always lock out the C1 when not in use!




_Meter: Dr. Meter LX1330B
Integrating "sphere": Homebuilt tube-style device calibrated on other known lights and test results. Numbers should be considered relative to each other and my other review figures but accuracy is in no way certified or guaranteed._
_Camera: Canon SD4000IS_


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## richbuff (Jun 20, 2017)

Thank you for your detailed, valuable and timely review of this intriguing item.

This light is intriguing for several reasons: It occupies its position alone on the size/power continuum. It is oozing with "Differentness". 

I plan on adding this to my collection, the question is when and from whom. 

I am anxious to see what is next in the Concept line.


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## TCY (Jun 20, 2017)

Thank you for the review, very detailed and objective, filled with data and charts.

For me the UI sounds a bit complicated but I'm sure it is much easier to use.


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## proceed5 (Jun 20, 2017)

Thank you BDM82 for your comprehensive review, the charts, opinions and all. 

Hope my Concept1 would arrive soon. I have been desiring for a handheld light with an XHP-35-HD LED for many months. 

Looks like this thing is gonna be another Too-Hot-Hot-to-hold light. 122 degree C is melting hot ! 
Many manufacturers are pushing their products into a new phase of palm-sized high output flashlights, which would get extremely hot, and seems like we just have to get used to this. 
Let's see, we now need to wear gloves to handhold flashlights. haha, just joking.


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## TCY (Jun 20, 2017)

proceed5 said:


> Thank you BDM82 for your comprehensive review, the charts, opinions and all.
> 
> Hope my Concept1 would arrive soon. I have been desiring for a handheld light with an XHP-35-HD LED for many months.
> 
> ...



It's 122 degrees Fahrenheit though... components like 18650 have a max. working temperature of 60 C.


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## proceed5 (Jun 20, 2017)

TCY said:


> It's 122 degrees Fahrenheit though... components like 18650 have a max. working temperature of 60 C.



Hi TCY, 
Noted and correct it is not Celsius. My typo error (too used to C here).

Well, it is going to be very common for manufacturers to produce lights that will burn the hands when the unit is put on prolonged Turbo.


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## irongate (Jun 20, 2017)

Thank you for that well written report-spot on!
A+


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## TCY (Jun 20, 2017)

proceed5 said:


> Hi TCY,
> Noted and correct it is not Celsius. My typo error (too used to C here).
> 
> Well, it is going to be very common for manufacturers to produce lights that will burn the hands when the unit is put on prolonged Turbo.



With 18650 lights hitting 1500+ lumens and extreme ones going for 2800 (TM03), it is already very common.. wonder when we can get 5000 lumens with just one 16850:devil:


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## Mikasa (Jun 20, 2017)

Thank you, this is the review that I've been waiting for! My Nitecore C1 will be arriving later this week, and it will be replacing my MH20 as EDC. I'm pretty sure I'll quickly get used to the C1's UI.


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## Joe Talmadge (Jun 20, 2017)

Bdm82 said:


> It is a bit annoying having to turn the light off before being able to cycle between modes once already in use, though the momentary access to Turbo makes up for it to me. Hold the button, get Turbo, release, and you’re back to where you were. As ATR steps Turbo down fairly quickly anyway, this momentary burst is the way I’d expect most users to use Turbo.
> 
> *Overall the C1 is a classy looking, comfortable to carry compact light with a lot of power for short duration Turbo use. The unique UI and need to lock out at the tail when not in use will likely be the deciding factors for most potential buyers.*
> 
> As a final note I cannot stress enough: *Users should perform a tail cap lockout whenever the light is not in use*. Whether in a pocket, in the holster, or just on a shelf where children can reach, locking out the C1 is critical. I own several other lights that I lock out whenever I pocket but none have as sensitive of a switch as the C1. During testing I put it in the holster without it locked out once by accident and found the holster literally smoking shortly after. Always lock out the C1 when not in use!



Thanks for the review! I think you nailed it with the insight in the bolded portion. I like a LOT of things about this light, but luckily for my wallet, the UI makes this an incredibly easy no-brainer for me to NOT consider, too many inconveniences for everyday operation, and then we have the lockout requirement on top of it.


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## Fireclaw18 (Jun 20, 2017)

Great review.

Nice output, decent UI, nice clean design for pocket EDC.

The only real problem seems to be the switch. Pocket EDC lights are much less convenient if you need to lock them out. It sounds like Nitecore should have designed the light to have an extra spring around the switch piston to make it much harder to actually depress the switch lever.


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## wimmer21 (Jun 20, 2017)

Terrific review Blayne. Very interesting and I'm intrigued by the U.I.'s momentary turbo from on. The lack of neutral beam temp option is about all that's holding me back.


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## Beckler (Jun 20, 2017)

It's interesting and all but when I first read about it on the nitecore website I was very intrigued and thought maybe this "new concept" was about to address a major problem with flashlights today - namely they're impossible to use because of all the random, often illogical, user interfaces. So of course I was sorely mistaken when I read the manual and found out it's yet another ridiculous random button sequence. What the hell are they doing. There either needs to be a standard interface (surely within the same manufacturer), or lights need to be fully programmable. Other option would be to have several global modes you can select, one of which is a standard one which preferably all makers agree to.

This of course isn't specific to this light but just a letdown that this "concept" is nothing. Just looks a bit different with an interesting switch. Sure it's bright for size, but I'm sure zebra sc600 and a dozen others I'm not aware of, are about the same. What's this amazing concept they're going on about exactly then.


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## TCY (Jun 20, 2017)

Beckler said:


> It's interesting and all but when I first read about it on the nitecore website I was very intrigued and thought maybe this "new concept" was about to address a major problem with flashlights today - namely they're impossible to use because of all the random, often illogical, user interfaces. So of course I was sorely mistaken when I read the manual and found out it's yet another ridiculous random button sequence. What the hell are they doing. There either needs to be a standard interface (surely within the same manufacturer), or lights need to be fully programmable. Other option would be to have several global modes you can select, one of which is a standard one which preferably all makers agree to.
> 
> This of course isn't specific to this light but just a letdown that this "concept" is nothing. Just looks a bit different with an interesting switch. Sure it's bright for size, but I'm sure zebra sc600 and a dozen others I'm not aware of, are about the same. What's this amazing concept they're going on about exactly then.



You are right, size/brightness wise the Zebralight SC600F plus puts out the same 1800lm light (but in a floody beam profile because of XHP50) while being ~15mm shorter. Armytek has the new Wizard pro with XHP50 in it that pumps out on par brightness (2300 LED lumens) with similar form factor. I almost pulled the trigger on this light but the mode spacing is just not for me, and I'm not a fan of the UI.


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## cubebike (Jun 20, 2017)

Thank you for the professional review.


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## Bdm82 (Jun 21, 2017)

proceed5 said:


> Thank you BDM82 for your comprehensive review, the charts, opinions and all.
> 
> Hope my Concept1 would arrive soon. I have been desiring for a handheld light with an XHP-35-HD LED for many months.
> 
> ...





TCY said:


> It's 122 degrees Fahrenheit though... components like 18650 have a max. working temperature of 60 C.




It was indeed 122F, which is not really that hot. 50C. Many other lights I've tested go to 55C or more, so this one actually doesn't get that uncomfortable at all. 
I added the C numbers in the review above alongside the F numbers to reduce possible confusion.



Thanks to everyone for the feedback!


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## hatman (Jun 21, 2017)

Well-done, sir. Thank you.

For me, the ringy beam, cool tint, and lockout requirement are turnoffs.


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## proceed5 (Jun 21, 2017)

Bdm82 said:


> It was indeed 122F, which is not really that hot. 50C. Many other lights I've tested go to 55C or more, so this one actually doesn't get that uncomfortable at all.
> I added the C numbers in the review above alongside the F numbers to reduce possible confusion.
> Thanks to everyone for the feedback!



Excellent BDM82, 50C very manageable. _(I'm starting to like these kind of monsters ... )_

I have been giving this light much thought and I will like the simple UI. I mean, its like the MT25GT , after initial selection of the primary output level, just use one output n as when Turbo is needed, just press and burst.
I am still eagerly awaiting for the arrival of my C1 together with the SRT9, MT22A .


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## wimmer21 (Jun 21, 2017)

hatman said:


> Well-done, sir. Thank you.
> 
> For me, the ringy beam, cool tint, and lockout requirement are turnoffs.



I don't mind the lockout too much and since the rings aren't visible in the outside shots, that doesn't really bother me either. Maybe a neutral temp version will soon follow.

But yes... very professional and thorough review here by Bdm82!


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## EXIA.NEOS (Jun 21, 2017)

What a detailed professional report. Thank you very much.


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## TCY (Jun 21, 2017)

Bdm82 said:


> It was indeed 122F, which is not really that hot. 50C. Many other lights I've tested go to 55C or more, so this one actually doesn't get that uncomfortable at all.
> I added the C numbers in the review above alongside the F numbers to reduce possible confusion.
> 
> 
> ...



Thank you for updating, I agree that 50 C is not that high at all, but consider the C1's output, I wonder if Nitecore has some sorcery to keep the temperature down or the light simply doesn't have the surface area to dissipate the heat.


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## cubebike (Jun 22, 2017)

TCY said:


> Thank you for updating, I agree that 50 C is not that high at all, but consider the C1's output, I wonder if Nitecore has some sorcery to keep the temperature down or the light simply doesn't have the surface area to dissipate the heat.



I believe the ATR automatically adjust the output (increase/reduce)to keep the led/board from overheated.


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## TCY (Jun 22, 2017)

cubebike said:


> I believe the ATR automatically adjust the output (increase/reduce)to keep the led/board from overheated.



What I meant is that there might be heat trapped inside as the C1 doesn't have a heat sink/cooling fin, thus not enough surface area to fully direct heat produced to the aluminium body. That said, what you said makes sense given that C1's output drops down to 1000 lumens at the 2 minute mark which is aggressive enough.


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## KingOfF00LS (Jun 22, 2017)

Beckler said:


> It's interesting and all but when I first read about it on the nitecore website I was very intrigued and thought maybe this "new concept" was about to address a major problem with flashlights today - namely they're impossible to use because of all the random, often illogical, user interfaces. So of course I was sorely mistaken when I read the manual and found out it's yet another ridiculous random button sequence. What the hell are they doing. There either needs to be a standard interface (surely within the same manufacturer), or lights need to be fully programmable. Other option would be to have several global modes you can select, one of which is a standard one which preferably all makers agree to.
> 
> This of course isn't specific to this light but just a letdown that this "concept" is nothing. Just looks a bit different with an interesting switch. Sure it's bright for size, but I'm sure zebra sc600 and a dozen others I'm not aware of, are about the same. What's this amazing concept they're going on about exactly then.



Wanted to post how much I agree with this. Although it would be hard to have a "universal UI" when some lights have more buttons than others.

One thing I do wish was universal was the ability for the user to select how many modes are in the "cycle" and to custom set the lumens for each mode. Sometimes low is just a hair bit too low and medium is just a smidge too high. Or maybe I'm just hard to please


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## eraursls1984 (Jun 22, 2017)

TCY said:


> You are right, size/brightness wise the Zebralight SC600F plus puts out the same 1800lm light (but in a floody beam profile because of XHP50) while being ~15mm shorter. Armytek has the new Wizard pro with XHP50 in it that pumps out on par brightness (2300 LED lumens) with similar form factor. I almost pulled the trigger on this light but the mode spacing is just not for me, and I'm not a fan of the UI.


I'm pretty sure the Armytek's numbers are way over exaggerated. I think I saw that it's actually around 1500 Lm.


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## TCY (Jun 22, 2017)

eraursls1984 said:


> I'm pretty sure the Armytek's numbers are way over exaggerated. I think I saw that it's actually around 1500 Lm.



Armytek uses LED lumens for advertising. Their OTF lumen is about 20% less (the Wizard Pro's rated OTF is exactly 1800lm)


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## Timothybil (Jun 22, 2017)

I have to admit that it is a classy looking light, and if it was going to be my first and possibly only Nitecore I would be interested. But since I already have a half dozen other Nitecore lights that have similar UIs that are almost completely opposite of this one's, no thanks. With a TM11, TM16, EA8, EA41, EA11, EA45S, an MT06 and a dozen or so Tips and Tubes, I had sworn off buying any more lights. Then the P30 came along. But that is it. No more.


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## cubebike (Jun 23, 2017)

Your statement is true and i was trying very hard not to buy any more flashlights. However, i failed and everytime i found an excuse for another one. I have way too many flashlights then what i needed. Anyway, i enjoy using/buying/testing new design very much. Perhaps this is flashaholic syndrome



Timothybil said:


> I have to admit that it is a classy looking light, and if it was going to be my first and possibly only Nitecore I would be interested. But since I already have a half dozen other Nitecore lights that have similar UIs that are almost completely opposite of this one's, no thanks. With a TM11, TM16, EA8, EA41, EA11, EA45S, an MT06 and a dozen or so Tips and Tubes, I had sworn off buying any more lights. Then the P30 came along. But that is it. No more.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jun 23, 2017)

cubebike said:


> Your statement is true and i was trying very hard not to buy any more flashlights. However, i failed and everytime i found an excuse for another one. I have way too many flashlights then what i needed. Anyway, i enjoy using/buying/testing new design very much. Perhaps this is flashaholic syndrome



Better to buy the Nitecore Concept 1 than the Rimac Concept_One; A ~$900,000 difference.

http://newatlas.com/rimac-concept-one-production-geneva/41975/


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## proceed5 (Jun 23, 2017)

Just received my C1. 

Superb ! The UI is very easy to use. All that's needed is to pre-select the memorised output and forget about changing output levels.
Turbo is always available On Demand via Press-n-hold Burst. And from standby Turbo is accessible via triple clicks. 
This is similar in usage (albeit no turning of heads) as the Nitecore MT25GT.

And Turbo is Not hot, it's manageable (definitely unlike the melting hot heat from Manker's E14-II). 
Lower Low 1 lumen is easily accessible from standby and double click.

Overall it is bright.


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## Joe Talmadge (Jun 23, 2017)

In thinking about this more, am I right in thinking the design of the switch is the main driver of the lock out requirement? If so, why do you think Nitecore went with that switch? I'm sure they're aware that the lockout requirement wouldn't be well-received, so they must have thought sticking with this particular switch would provide other compelling advantages, I would think. I mean, presumably they could have gone with a high-current version of one of their current side switch designs, had a better (or at least, more familiar) UI with no lockout requirement. What would those compelling advantages of this switch be? The two I can think of are: 

1. Lower profile. Which I can see, but doesn't seem compelling to me.
2. Ability to handle very high current, reliably. Assuming full current is flowing through the switch ... but couldn't their regular switch be re-designed in some way?

Or is there some other reason for the lockout requirement, e.g., with so much heat in a light this small, safest to include a lockout requirement... but that does not seem to be the motivation here.


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## Fireclaw18 (Jun 23, 2017)

I think the reason for the lockout is the switch. The entire switch lever sticks up above the body of the light so it looks like it could be very easily pressed accidentally.

In side-switch lights that do not require a lockout, the button is usually either flush with the body of the light or depressed into a recessed area.

When the button sticks up above the sides of the light and there are no ridges around it to help protect it, the chance of accidental activation is high. Early model Zebralights like the SC51 had this problem: a big button that stuck up above the edges of the light. So easy to press that tailcap lockout was mandatory. The problem was fixed with the introduction of the new switch design which debuted with the original SC600: a smaller, stiffer switch button deeply recessed into a socket in the side of the light.

Internally, I expect the Concept 1's switch to look like the same as most other e-switch lights. Either a separate circuit board, or as part of the driver board there will be a tiny momentary electronic switch. Above the switch there is probably a metal piston that passes through a rubber watertight cover. Above the piston is the external lever-action switch cover. Nitecore probably could have used a conventional rubber switch button and had an even lower profile light.

Why did Nitecore choose to do the switch in this manner instead of a more traditional switch? ... I suspect it was purely for aesthetics. I see no practical advantages to this switch design. Indeed there appears to be another disadvantage in that a metal switch piston projects under the center of that lever. This piston hopefully is seated in a rubber cover, but even if it is, the light will likely never be as waterproof as one with a sealed rubber cover with nothing protruding through.

Even with the current design, Nitecore might still have avoided the need for tailcap lockout if they added an extra spring to the switch to make it harder to depress. However, I suspect that the only spring in the switch is the one inside the microswitch. That definitely won't provide enough protection from accidental activation.

When mine arrives I might see if I can install an extra spring. Nitecores are difficult to mod though. Not sure I'll be able to open it up.


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## Joe Talmadge (Jun 23, 2017)

See, I thought it was crazy to think that Nitecore would create such a poor user experience, just to make a prettier switch, that I must be missing something. It's things like this, and the "tactical" strobe that you have to hit the switch 3 times to get to, that make me wonder if these guys ever use their own lights. Still hoping to hear there's some other explanation


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## Fireclaw18 (Jun 23, 2017)

In your previous post you speculated that one reason for the switch design was it could handle high current.

I'm sure that's not it. Main current doesn't flow through the switch on an e-switch light. That only applies to clickies. 

Also, the interface in the Concept 1 is clearly the kind that is only possible with an e-switch light, not a clicky. (a clicky interrupts main current so the driver has no power when off. In an e-switch light the driver is powered at all times. the switch is there just as an input to tell the driver what to do).


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## proceed5 (Jun 23, 2017)

Hi Fireclaw18, 
The C1 has a recessed small switch under the metal rocker arm. The switch looks rubberised and sealed. 
The metal rocker arm has a tiny (plastic looking) piston that is secured or glued underneath the arm and this tiny piston acts as the lever to depress the micro switch underneath. 
I unscrewed the screw from the rocker arm and I used a tiny screwdriver to press the recessed small switch and this way it still functions as normal. 

The rocker arm is pinned to a metal housing, the housing looks to be somewhat part of the body around the head of the light.

Nitecore could have just skipped all these cosmetics, they could have made this light even more flush without the metal rocker arm.


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## eekazum (Jun 24, 2017)

Very thorough review bdm.

It almost looks like you can put a rubber band just under the pivot and shave down that pin or piston a little to make it less sensitive.

Is it that big a PITA to tailcap lock the light? And can that magnet be removed/replaced?

And I'm really happy to hear they have low voltage protection fit those of us who have unprotected batteries!


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## Mikasa (Jun 26, 2017)

I just received my Concept 1 and the review is pretty much spot on, although I did see some people say Turbo doesn't work without an IMR 18650 battery. I have two protected 18650s (Nitecore nl1834 3400mah and nl1834r 3400mah). The only difference between the two is one of them has a built-in USB charging feature. The nl1834 powers my Concept 1 on Turbo just fine while the nl834r doesn't (light shuts off, requiring a reset by loosening then tightening cap). Anyway, I ordered a pair of IMR 18650 3100mah batteries just to be sure.

I don't mind the UI at all, in fact I think I'm one of the few who like it. You have quick access to Turbo, the memorized setting, and moonlight setting. In my opinion, only those who constantly need to access ALL brightness levels of their lights will find the Concept 1's UI cumbersome. I agree that it's quite a hassle to have to turn off the light, then hold the switch to browse through the different brightness levels.

My biggest gripe would be having to loosen the cap to prevent accidental powering on. It's not that bad, you just need to loosen it by half an inch (tested it) and it no longer powers on, but I just hope I remember to do it each time the Concept 1 goes into my pocket.

As for brightness, I compared it to my Nitecore MH20 (1000 lumen max). The Concept 1 is floodier while the MH20 has a more defined hot spot. This is to be expected given the difference in reflector size / depth. The Concept 1 has a slightly purplish tint which is only really noticeable when compared side by side. On its own I wouldn't even think that the beam tint is purplish, just cool white. Also, the 1800 lumen max of the Concept 1 doesn't seem to be that much brighter than the 1000 lumen max of the MH20. To my naked eyes, I'd say the Concept 1 was about 10% brighter than the MH20. One would expect an 800 lumen difference to be huge, apparently in this case it isn't. While comparing brightness, I didn't leave the lights on for more than 10 seconds because I know that once ATR kicks in, max output starts to drop. All observations are "as seen by the naked eye," so actual results / observations may vary depending on how good or bad one's eyesight is.


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## Patriot (Jul 2, 2017)

Thanks for the outstanding review! I completely enjoyed reading through this! I like the idea of this light because it is a bit different and certainly sleek.

It was a bit disappointing to read about the 'door slam' temperature regulation at 107F. That really seems to be hyper restrictive and reminds me of what Fenix was doing on lights like the TK51 back in the day. I've driven many lights well over 150F head temperatures and never measured even a hint of degradation or tint shift, never mind LED failure. Obviously the cell needs to work within its temperature range but it heats up at a much slower rate than the light itself. It would be interesting know how much additional turbo/burst time would've been available had the thermal circuit been set to 137F instead of 107F. Would that be another 15 seconds... 30 perhaps? In any case, any improvement turns out to be significant when the turbo/burst duration is so short to begin with. I wonder how Nitecore went about selecting/setting the thermal regulation. Traditionally, they allow their products to run a bit warmer than what we're seeing on this light, some examples being the TM and SRT series.


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## eekazum (Jul 8, 2017)

Just got mine. Your review is spot on man.

I'm pretty impressed with its size. The length is identical to the mh20gt but the body and head are much slimmer. Here's a size comparison of some of my small lights:

From left to right: Zebralight SC600w mk3 HI, Nitecore mh20gt, NC Concept 1, Sky Lumen 2, Acebeam H20vn, and NC HC30




The switch is indeed, sensitive (not that I doubted every single one of you who said it's sensitive). It's definitely going to be a problem for people who do not use the clip to carry it around. Removing the screw revealed that the switch swings 180 degrees toward the head. Mine had a little plastic cover over the pin.




Kinda going with my own suggestion above, I wrapped a rubber band just below the pivot to see if it would increase the switch tension. This helped quite a bit as it required a little more force to operate the switch.




Below are pics to show how I put it together to make the mod more presentable.

I cut out a short length of rubber band and folded it in half to get the desired thickness, then used dental floss to keep it from falling off the light as I screwed the switch back in.




This is what it looks like now. Pretty discreet  (oh wait, I hadn't put the screw in yet on this pic!)




I'm still going to lock it out with the tailcap because of the excessive drain during standby but this will keep it from accidentally turning on in my pocket if I forget.


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## matrixshaman (Sep 7, 2017)

Beckler said:


> It's interesting and all but when I first read about it on the nitecore website I was very intrigued and thought maybe this "new concept" was about to address a major problem with flashlights today - namely they're impossible to use because of all the random, often illogical, user interfaces. So of course I was sorely mistaken when I read the manual and found out it's yet another ridiculous random button sequence. What the hell are they doing. There either needs to be a standard interface (surely within the same manufacturer), or lights need to be fully programmable. Other option would be to have several global modes you can select, one of which is a standard one which preferably all makers agree to.
> 
> This of course isn't specific to this light but just a letdown that this "concept" is nothing. Just looks a bit different with an interesting switch. Sure it's bright for size, but I'm sure zebra sc600 and a dozen others I'm not aware of, are about the same. What's this amazing concept they're going on about exactly then.



Just got my Concept 1 being a big fan of Nitecore. Thanks Blayne for the excellent review! Beckler, We've had fully programmable lights in the past - I've got several Liteflux lights that could take days to learn but that's the fun of having them. HDS lights are also fairly extensive in their programming ability. With the Concept 1 and other lights I consider it to be the fun of having them - to play with them and learn the different modes and things they can do. You play with it and you learn it - not difficult especially with just one button. There's only so many ways you can push one button. Many lights in the past have used double or triple clicks to activate certain modes. I personally think it would be boring if they were all the same. I have used the Concept 1 probably 10 minutes (just got it today) and I'm quite sure I know already how to use all functions. My only complaint with it is the bezel up carry clip - I always prefer bezel down carry but I'll be making a replacement clip to fix that which does bezel down and bezel up.


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## Woods Walker (Sep 8, 2017)

That switch looks like an accident waiting to happen. Seems like something which would get turned on in my pack or broken when it hits the ground hard. Recessed switch For me whenever possible on a smaller EDC hand held light. Nice review!


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## matrixshaman (Sep 9, 2017)

Woods Walker said:


> That switch looks like an accident waiting to happen. Seems like something which would get turned on in my pack or broken when it hits the ground hard. Recessed switch For me whenever possible on a smaller EDC hand held light. Nice review!



It won't turn on if you give the tail cap a 1/4 turn to loosen as stated in the review and directions - you don't want to carry it "loaded" as it would be easy to turn on and 1800 + Lumens could probably do some damage if up against the wrong thing. I can only hold my hand on the front of the lens for about 1 second on turbo before it gets painfully hot. It does have a drop test rating so I don't believe the switch would be damaged easily.


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## Screwball69N (Oct 6, 2017)

Great light on my Secound one already my first one the switch quite working don’t know why nothing was physically broke but you couldn’t feel that little click anymore so it just didn’t work anyone else have the switch stop working


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## taeraeyttaejae (Oct 9, 2017)

I have EC4S and I consider it really bulky, could this C1 be considered as good EDC? I don't mind hot flashlight as nights in finland get cold when it gets dark, and usually I use flashlight as a bicycle light, or as a repair assistance lamp when at shop. Pricepoint is a *bit* high compared to olight s20 that my wife stole(35eur vs 50eur)


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## Woods Walker (Oct 9, 2017)

matrixshaman said:


> It won't turn on if you give the tail cap a 1/4 turn to loosen as stated in the review and directions - you don't want to carry it "loaded" as it would be easy to turn on and 1800 + Lumens could probably do some damage if up against the wrong thing. I can only hold my hand on the front of the lens for about 1 second on turbo before it gets painfully hot. It does have a drop test rating so I don't believe the switch would be damaged easily.



Sometimes when cold and tired on the trail things get forgotten. I do always attempt to lock out lights but things just happen in the woods. Also unless mistaken someone already reported a broken switch. Ratings sometimes aren't real life. I don't think this gear item is for me though enjoyed the review.

Here is a video of the failure which I believe was posted on CPF already. For full disclosure I am a Nitecore fan and have reviewed stuff for them before. This is not my video however agree with his assessment.


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## phantom23 (Oct 14, 2017)

Mikasa said:


> In my opinion, only those who constantly need to access ALL brightness levels of their lights will find the Concept 1's UI cumbersome. I agree that it's quite a hassle to have to turn off the light, then hold the switch to browse through the different brightness levels.


I don't need to access all modes all the time but I'm using a couple of them regularily and I'm not the only one. Nitecore complicated the most basic thing in a flashlight and to me it's a solid deal breaker. Press and hold should be used to change modes (I'm not a fan of that solution either but it's better than nothing), press+press and hold should go to turbo. They did that in the D10 series long time ago and it was brilliant. More - I wouldn't mind if they'd copy that UI to this flashlight. I'd also like to see neutral XHP35 HI emitter inside.


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## Bdm82 (Oct 15, 2017)

taeraeyttaejae said:


> I have EC4S and I consider it really bulky, could this C1 be considered as good EDC? I don't mind hot flashlight as nights in finland get cold when it gets dark, and usually I use flashlight as a bicycle light, or as a repair assistance lamp when at shop. Pricepoint is a *bit* high compared to olight s20 that my wife stole(35eur vs 50eur)



I would consider this more of a "gentleman's light" than an EDC. It looks nice and is small clipped to a pair of dress slacks, for example. 
The absolute must locking out the light at the tail cap and odds I would drop it often as EDC knocks it out of EDC rotation.

If you really like the C1, the EC23 is much the same but has a more traditional and stronger switch design. For you, it'd also be better as it has a standard 1" tube that works with many bike mounts. And it's cheaper. 

I reviewed it as well if you want to read more long-windedness...
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/5140222

The EC4 is big for EDC.




Woods Walker said:


> Sometimes when cold and tired on the trail things get forgotten. I do always attempt to lock out lights but things just happen in the woods. Also unless mistaken someone already reported a broken switch. Ratings sometimes aren't real life. I don't think this gear item is for me though enjoyed the review.
> 
> Here is a video of the failure which I believe was posted on CPF already. For full disclosure I am a Nitecore fan and have reviewed stuff for them before. This is not my video however agree with his assessment.





Woods, thanks for the kind feedback on the review itself. 
If I could pick any light from those I own or have reviewed to think "not for the woods", this would be right up there.


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## boomshiva (Jul 14, 2018)

Really good review! Was tempted to pick up the Concept 1 but think I'll wait a bit longer for a light that can sustain that kind of output for longer than just "show off" times. I live in Bombay, which is a pretty hot place, so expect those Turbo run times to be even shorter. The switch doesn't appeal to me either...too much of a headache. Good thing I saw this review before calling the shop!


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