# reliable leave in the car light?



## Racebrewer (Feb 11, 2011)

Hi,



Over the years I've had a few flashlights (rechargeable or other) that I've tried leaving in the car until needed. Unfortunately, that has always bitten me in the butt. When I've needed them (flat tire, etc..), they've been dead. 



Stone cold dead........... Since I live in Northern NY, near the Canadian border, that can be very, very cold.



Are there any good solutions to this problem (other than remembering my EDC)? Are there any good rechargeables that can live in my car? Are there any battery types that don't take a nap at 0 degrees F and will hold a charge in this environment?



Since my wife and I have small cars, I'd prefer something smaller than a Magcharger. I saw a smaller Dorcy that looked good until I saw it had NiCads, which I believe would be a mistake if left all of the time in a car charger.



Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.



Thanks,

John


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## nbp (Mar 20, 2011)

I feel the Surefire G2L is one of the best overall glovebox lights out there. Very tough, very simple to use, good output, good runtime, and lithiums are happy even in the cold, and so is Nitrolon when you have to hold onto it. You really can't go wrong. That's what sits in the console of my Honda.


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## Mikellen (Mar 20, 2011)

If the light will only be used for emergency and its an AA or 2AA flashlight, then Energizer lithium primaries would be a great choice.
They have a very long life span and perform well in the cold.


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## nitesky (Mar 20, 2011)

Were you looking for a rechargable light? The Streamlight Strion is pretty small and has a lithium ion battery. The LED version is pretty nice. I recently picked one up to replace the incan version. I am not sure about long term cold or hot storage. Perhaps someone else can chime in with actual experience. Streamlight might have some info on the subject. I have had no problems with the shelf life in less strenuous situations.

Energizer lithiums would also work fine for your purpose and would probably be a less expensive option. I have stored a couple of lights in my car for about 3 years now with the same sets of batteries. Just check them occasionally. They can also take a bit of heat.


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## afdk (Mar 20, 2011)

I leave a Underwater Kinetics (Firelight) in the car. It is a polymer 4 AA cell light with 45 lumen output. This is plenty of light for any car task you might encounter. I use energizer L91 lithium cells which are very reliable for long term car storage! UK lights are very reliable well made flashlights.


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## fisk-king (Mar 20, 2011)

nbp said:


> I feel the Surefire G2L is one of the best overall glovebox lights out there. Very tough, very simple to use, good output, good runtime, and lithiums are happy even in the cold, and so is Nitrolon when you have to hold onto it. You really can't go wrong. That's what sits in the console of my Honda.


 
+1

In the truck I have a Malkoff MD2 with a M61 drop-in which has done well for me.


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## Lee1959 (Mar 20, 2011)

I leave two lights in each vehicle because at any given time both my wife and I could be riding in there and I prefer one for each person. Both are CR123 lights so they will e there when I need them, even in mid winter in Michigan. There are many good chocies out there, practically as many as there are individuals to recommend them. 

My two choices are an Inova X5 for long lasting light, and an Inova X0 (Tiros) for longer throw.


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## Kestrel (Mar 20, 2011)

For cold weather, a Nitrolon SureFire G2 and a Malkoff M61LL (& 2xCR123 SureFire primaries) would be a nearly perfect car flashlight. (This is very close to what I set up for my wife's car.)

An even better alternate option IMO would be a SF G*3* with the same module and 3x CR123's. This would also permit using two AA cells in an emergency, albeit at a reduced output.


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## angelofwar (Mar 20, 2011)

In short, use a light that uses LITHIUM batteries. Also note, that when purchased correctly, CR123's are cheaper than the Energizer Lithium AA's. So, second the Surefire G2L/G3L Malkoff set-up. Also beware, that not all AA lights can handle the extra voltage of lithium cells.


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## CoherentDrew (Mar 20, 2011)

Although not very bright, I've had the jtspotlight in my civic in sunny Minnesota:thumbsup: for a couple years now and it never fails. Half watt 5mm led at 27 lumens, claimed 2 hr runtime, and TIR optic with good flood/spot balance. about $13-20 depending on where you get it. It just hangs out in the cig socket and charges automatically. You dont push it in all the way but rather just to make contact. I always have a couple lights in my pocket but for a dedicated backup car light, I am happy with it. I even got 1 for the motorcycle as it has a socket added for charging the batt in winter.


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## PerttiK (Mar 20, 2011)

I'd suggest anything with twist switch and AA lithium or CR123's.
Perhaps a ITP A1.


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## jsr (Mar 20, 2011)

Most any light that uses a lithium battery (be it AA or CR123) will work fine. Lithiums work well in cold weather. I'd recommend a single cell light over a multi-cell simply because if one cells dies, you have no light. Each of my cars has a 1x123 light with a CR123 loaded and 1 or 2 spare CR123 batteries in the car. I've not had problems with any of my lithium-based lights in my cars when I needed them. I have an old Nuwai QIII (modded with an SSC P4 emitter), Dereelight C2H, and Pelican M1 modded with a Cree XR-E.


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## tdoom15 (Mar 20, 2011)

ITP sc1 or sc2...cheap, good quality, easy UI, uses CR123's for good shelf life and cold weather performance.


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## dradee1 (Mar 20, 2011)

I leave a Streamlight sidewinder compact in the car and a couple of spare batteries. They make great work lights and can attach in many ways.


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## Acid87 (Mar 20, 2011)

Ignore everyone unless someone has mentioned the SF G2/G2L the body does NOT get cold or hot, Can be battered around and not scuff or ding like an aluminium body. You can customise the drop in to suit your needs. They are cheap and robust.

Add to this a SC1 battery and lamp holder and your set to go. Ive had this set up in mine and my girlfriends cars and they work great. 
I personally would mess about with a normal type edc light because if it goes when the fhit hits the san your buggered whereas with a P60 host you just swap in a new lamp.


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## RobertM (Mar 20, 2011)

I have to agree with some of the above posters. SureFire's nitrolon bodied lights (G2, G2L, G3, G3L, G2Z, etc.) are excellent cold weather lights. The body is really easy on your hands, tough and rugged build, with CR123 cells that are okay down to -40 degrees with a 10 year shelf life.


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## mbw_151 (Mar 20, 2011)

Another recommendation for lithium cells. Rechargables self discharge, some slower than others. A light in a car can go ignored for a long time, you need cells with a long shelf life. Alkaline cells definitely don't like the thermal cycling that happens in cars. I had headlamps that the manufacturer said could not use lithiums in cars. The alkalines leaked and killed all three.

If all my lights disappeared tomorrow, I would go out and buy Surefire G2X Pros for my cars. They have a low that's good for most close tasks, a high for spotting, a Nitrolon body that doesn't feel cold like aluminum and they won't break the bank. What's not to love?


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## cm_mtb (Mar 20, 2011)

I'd also recommend a G2/3. I would recommend one of these over the G2X because the head is not sealed, meaning you can switch out the dropin if the original breaks or just isn't well suited to the task at hand.


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## mrlysle (Mar 20, 2011)

I feel you can get any light you like, that meets your budget, etc, but just have to have one criteria. It must be able to take Lithium primaries. AA or CR123 lithiums. NOT LiIon rechargeables, just lithium primaries. They typically have a 10 year shelf life and perform at MUCH lower temps than any other chemistry. Other posters have mentioned the Nitrolon bodied Surefires and they would be an excellent choice, especially if you grabbed one in need, and didn't have gloves on. But if you like the looks/features of another brand, by all means get it. Just stoke it with lithium primaries and it shouldn't let you down. Good luck.


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## maskman (Mar 21, 2011)

There have been a number of good suggestions in this thread IMO, especially the use of lithium primary batteries for flashlights left in vehicles. My contribution isn’t so much a suggestion as it is a description of what I find useful in emergency situations. I need both hands free to run a jack, both hands free to turn a lug wrench, as well as both hands to change tires or to dig in mud/snow if I’m stuck. I’m just not interested in placing a frozen flashlight in my mouth in order to orient the beam on my work, nor do I desire to use one of my EDC lights and spend time positioning the light on my work while dealing with gravel, mud, wind, or snow so I can have dependable light on the task that requires both of my hands. 

Granted it’s not as sexy as the EDC lights I’m packing, but under extreme circumstances I just need a light that frees my hands and gets the job done safely and efficiently. Therefore I keep a headlamp in my vehicle storage compartments just for such purposes. I highly doubt my wife would wear a headlamp or use a flashlight for any road related situation; rather she would call for road side assistance. Still that leaves the headlamp in her car available for me to use during the times I’m in the car with her. This is just my 2 cents and testimonial as to what has worked very well for me. Good luck in your search for the optimal setup.


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## GunnarGG (Mar 21, 2011)

I think mrlysle said just about the same thing as I thought. In my car there is a Streamlight PolyTac led.
It's not wrong to add a second light as a backup and also for instance if the passenger wants to read a map (or anything else of course) it's not so nice with 120 lumens but rather just a few.
For that I have a Quark Mini123nw. A zebralight would work as a headlamp also.


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## flashflood (Mar 21, 2011)

Several of you have mentioned that lithium primaries handle cold well. What about heat? Is LiFePO4 a good bet here? They were developed for electric cars, so you'd think they could handle temp extremes better than most.


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## Rat (Mar 21, 2011)

I have had the T4 Inova in my vehicle for the last 3.5yrs. It comes with a rechargeable cradle so it's always ready to go. Mine has never missed a beat in the 3.5yrs years I have had it for.It just sits in its cradle ready to go when I need it.
Here is a link http://www.inovalight.com/t/t4.php


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## lasermax (Mar 21, 2011)

try a nebo redline there rated for 220 lumens and take 3 triple aaa batteries I bought mine for 25 bucks at batterplus


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## DHart (Mar 21, 2011)

I haven't read all the posts, but certainly the key element is using a light which can be powered by lithium primary cells, whether CR123 or Energizer Lithium AA. This chemistry tolerates the temperature extremes and long shelf life much better than other options.

Beyond that, I think a light which offers a quick access to strobe can be very important in a light you will keep in your car. Generally speaking, a strobe feature is one that I have no interest in EXCEPT when walking at night in dimly lit areas where there are cars. Otherwise, I never use strobe and don't want it as a feature "in my way", but* if I should find myself by the side of a dark road, stopped for a problem, accident, whatever, I will want quick access to STROBE which can help draw immediate attention to myself and the situation from oncoming drivers... much moreso that a steady on, continuous light can.*

For these reasons, I keep two 4Sevens Quark lights in the car, each with quick access to strobe, if desired, and each powered by fully charged, unused lithium primaries.

Of course, in addition, I always have at least one flashlight clipped inside my pants pocket. Usually a D10. And another light or two in whatever case or bag I might be using to carry various needed items. I believe redundancy in lighting is never a bad thing!


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## ZMZ67 (Mar 21, 2011)

I would also go with a light using lithium AA or CR123 batteries.For a light that is stored more often than used I think it is best to avoid rechargable batteries and alkalines.I don't like keeping very expensive lights in my car so I use an Eveready Industrial AA with an LED replacement,2D Mag(adapted to AA) with a Magled LED module and a SF G2 incan.I also recently added a cheap Lifegear 3AA for its red/flashing modes.Of course all the lights together represent a bit of money but its nice to have back-ups and I wouldn't be that upset with thier loss/theft. 
If you don't mind keeping more expensive lights in your car then the G2 with a Malkoff M61LL or better yet a M61WLL as Kestrel suggested, would be ideal for a car light. The INOVA X5 Lee1959 mentioned would be a great "failsafe" back up as well.


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## sween1911 (Mar 21, 2011)

After having my trusty D-cell Maglites leak and leave me in the lurch repeatedly, I put together my own car light by sleeving a two C-cell Mag to hold two CR123's and a spacer and using a 4D Led-module. Also have one of those anti-roll black rubber bezel sleeves on it. Doesn't look like anything special sitting in the car, but it's more robust and reliable than an alkaline-powered incan. 

You guys have great points with the hands-free action using a headlamp. I think I need to get one for the car.


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## smokelaw1 (Mar 21, 2011)

I have two. G2 with a malkoff M60 and CR123's, and a spare set of CR123's. I also wanted strobe, but there is nothing out there with a strobe that TO ME give me the same comfort in reliability that the above set up has. I can press that button pretty quick if I need to. 

Then, for tire changing, baby seat adjusting, etc....I have a surefire saint minimus, with a CR123, and you guessed it, a spare CR123.


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## donn_ (Mar 21, 2011)

My wife's had a Maglite 2C, HAIII, with a Malkoff SSC P4 drop-in and 2x Accupower Low Self Discharge NiMH cells in her trunk for 3 years (and winters) now. I just recharged the cells for the first time last week, and they were still at 75%. The light rides in a Jiffy Bag, in her emergency kit.


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## angelofwar (Mar 21, 2011)

flashflood said:


> Several of you have mentioned that lithium primaries handle cold well. What about heat? Is LiFePO4 a good bet here? They were developed for electric cars, so you'd think they could handle temp extremes better than most.


 
While Lithiums don't perform as well in the heat as they do in the cold (relatively speaking), they still handle the heat better than alkalines.


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## angelofwar (Mar 21, 2011)

smokelaw1 said:


> I have two. G2 with a malkoff M60 and CR123's, and a spare set of CR123's. I also wanted strobe, but there is nothing out there with a strobe that TO ME give me the same comfort in reliability that the above set up has. I can press that button pretty quick if I need to.
> 
> Then, for tire changing, baby seat adjusting, etc....I have a surefire saint minimus, with a CR123, and you guessed it, a spare CR123.



I can't afford to keep an extra minimus in the car, but when going on "trips", I prepare a R.O.B. (Road Out Bag???), and place a headlamp (usually my minimus), extra handhelds (including my low red-light ones, ala Kroma, A2L-RD, etc. for night driving), as well as several Laser Brite light sticks for use as reusable road-flares/flashlight/traffic wands. These are military grade (they have NSN's assigned), and are sold in tactical kits for the military, and I recommend these to any-one looking for a reusable "signalling" option, as these things are VERY versatile.


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## BigBluefish (Mar 21, 2011)

I'm currently using a single-leve SureFire E2L, the 45 lumen cree model with the current TIR optic (round beam). 

Another good choice would be the SureFire G2L, or a G2 host with a Malkoff M60LL or M61LL, either cool or warm (-w) tint, take your pick. This is probably a better choice than the E2L; I just like the E-series better. 

Also, any good 2 x AA LED light (pick the feature set you like best) that can run on 2 L91s (Energizer Lithium) batteries. Most of them nowadays can.


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## dsmegst (Mar 21, 2011)

I have a 4sevens Quark AA with the newer AA eneloop in it. It should be good for a few years between charges.


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## Kestrel (Mar 21, 2011)

dsmegst said:


> I have a 4sevens Quark AA with the newer AA eneloop in it. It should be good for a few years between charges.


Definitely nothing wrong with NiMH Eneloops for the most part, my emergency car light is loaded with AA Duraloops, with more Duraloops as backup. With Lithium AA's and CR123's as backup backup. 

Welcome to CPF, BTW. :wave:

Here in Oregon, I figure that 99%+ of the time, NiMH chemistry will have no problems at all with our expected temps. Eneloops are so nice, maybe the OP will want to move from northern NY to a warmer climate. 


Edit: Taking a rough look at the numbers so far, it's approximately 11 votes just for the SureFire G2 series, and ~18 votes for everything else combined.


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## angelofwar (Mar 21, 2011)

Key word there being " combined"...lol


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## dss_777 (Mar 21, 2011)

Kestrel said:


> Edit: Taking a rough look at the numbers so far, it's approximately 11 votes just for the SureFire G2 series, and ~18 votes for everything else.


 
Another vote for a G2 in the cars, both with Malkoff M60LL dropins. Is that 19 votes, or 20, with G2's in both cars? 

I can also testify that, while not desireable, it IS possible to change a tire in the dark with the Nitrolon body held firmly in the teeth. I'd use headlamps, but like the form factor of the G2 series light much better overall.

Each have a lanyard and carry 2 spare batteries taht are attached to the light papoose-style, in a home-made carrier fabbed from a short section of bicycle inner tube.


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## shark_za (Mar 21, 2011)

Personally I don't leave a light in my car unless I am prepared to give it up. 
Break ins, theft, etc. 

I have simple cheap lights in my cars, 2x AA powered with L91's 

Solarforce L2r 
Romisen RC-N3


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## Outdoorsman5 (Mar 21, 2011)

I have a Quark AA2 in both my cars along with a head strap which converts the light into a headlamp when necessary. I have lithium primaries in them both with a spare set of batteries in each car. I like this set up & trust it. I have many cr123 lights, but chose the AA based lights for my cars so that if I'm on a trip & use the light a lot I could easily buy alkalines most anywhere if needed.


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## sween1911 (Mar 21, 2011)

Shark, good point. I myself get the willies about leaving anything in my car I wouldn't want to lose. Kinda why I always went with the ubiquitous Maglite.


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## Captain Spaulding (Mar 21, 2011)

And yet another vote for the *SF G2 Nitrolon* with spare lithium primaries. Perfect for cold dark nights, super reliable, and not too expensive to replace if stolen.

Plus I have a RayN S20 AAA (I hate this light and keep it in my car so I dont have to look at it) just in case I find myself in need of common place batteries that can be bought in any gas station.


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## onetrickpony (Mar 21, 2011)

I think the point most people are trying to get across here is that it's not the flashlight so much as the batteries. The reason your batteries are always dead is that they are susceptible to the cold. Lithium primaries, be they CR123 or L91 AA's or whatever are usually quite happy regardless of how low the mercury drops. I'd say skip anything rechargeable and keep a couple extras in the glove box or wherever just in case. The flashlight itself is up to your personal taste.


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## crizyal (Mar 21, 2011)

I do own a Surefire G2. While it is a reliable inexpensive fairly bright light, It doesn't quite have all of the features I want in a car light. I have Inova 24/7s in both of my vehicles. These are great utility lights with long runtimes and several different signaling modes. It uses one CR123 lithium primary battery which eliminates one possible failure point vs. two batteries. It seems to me that it would be a very durable light, though I have not abused mine. The one feature that I feel is important is the yellow to red fade. This will alert oncoming cars of distress. I am not sure the legality of using a yellow to red fade on the street, but I am willing to pay a fine as opposed to getting hit by traffic. Now keep in mind this is not my only light as I always have a pretty nice light that I EDC.


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## DHart (Mar 21, 2011)

One thing I forgot to mention about the Quark that makes it especially good for a vehicle/beside the road/pedestrian light is the instant toggling between MAX output and STROBE. 

You can be using the light on MAX for illumination and, when you want to alert oncoming drivers and get their attention quickly, with a simple tap on the switch be instantly in STROBE mode. Then as soon as you want to return the light to illumination duties, another simple tap toggles you back to MAX. Instant switching back and forth with no complex UI to have to deal with. I think that's a priceless feature for a "beside the road" light.


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## angelofwar (Mar 21, 2011)

crizyal said:


> I do own a Surefire G2. While it is a reliable inexpensive fairly bright light, It doesn't quite have all of the features I want in a car light. I have Inova 24/7s in both of my vehicles. These are great utility lights with long runtimes and several different signaling modes. It uses one CR123 lithium primary battery which eliminates one possible failure point vs. two batteries. It seems to me that it would be a very durable light, though I have not abused mine. The one feature that I feel is important is the yellow to red fade. This will alert oncoming cars of distress. I am not sure the legality of using a yellow to red fade on the street, but I am willing to pay a fine as opposed to getting hit by traffic. Now keep in mind this is not my only light as I always have a pretty nice light that I EDC.



+1 on the Inova 24/7's. Had 3, but am now down to two, but with the magnetic mount and head band mount, these make for extremely versatile light. My first gen 24/7 is now 8-9 years old and still going strong. I also love the white beacon mode for marking yourself or a location in a cave, or while camping, or jsut as an attention getter.


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## jtblue (Mar 21, 2011)

I have a 6P w/M61WLL running on primaries in my car, along with a set of spare batteries


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## Dude Dudeson (Mar 21, 2011)

shark_za said:


> Personally I don't leave a light in my car unless I am prepared to give it up.
> Break ins, theft, etc.



+ 10,000!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just today I left a 6P/M60 in a co-workers car I'd been carpooling with. This vehicle was about the LAST vehicle you'd expect to get stolen (a freaking 1995 Dodge Caravan). And also in about the LAST place you'd expect a vehicle theft too.

Well that vehicle was stolen today, while we were on a job. I figure 50/50 odds he'll get his vehicle back at some point. I'm not so optimistic about my Surefire though.

I've learned my lesson: Never leave anything of value in a parked vehicle - ANYWHERE, ANYTIME.


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## Dude Dudeson (Mar 21, 2011)

Since I posted at all I may as well follow up with a recommendation based on my newfound experience...

"Reliable leave in the car light"?

I'd say this comes down to battery shelf life, and availability while on the road. I'd also say "we don't want to spend too much money here" - the light will be sitting mostly unused anyway.

I nominate the 4Sevens Quark Mini AA for that. Small, gobs of runtime available if needed, pretty good performance for the size, INSANELY good performance with good cells or even rechargeable Energizers, and can still be used with AA alkalines in a pinch. 15 year shelf life if you get lithium primaries. I don't know of any CR123 cell with that kind of shelf life.

I'm more of a CR123 guy with my performance flashlights, but when "on the road" I finally realized AA battery form factor is where it's at...


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## afdk (Mar 22, 2011)

dss_777 said:


> Another vote for a G2 in the cars, both with Malkoff M60LL dropins. Is that 19 votes, or 20, with G2's in both cars?
> 
> I can also testify that, while not desireable, it IS possible to change a tire in the dark with the Nitrolon body held firmly in the teeth. I'd use headlamps, but like the form factor of the G2 series light much better overall.
> 
> Each have a lanyard and carry 2 spare batteries taht are attached to the light papoose-style, in a home-made carrier fabbed from a short section of bicycle inner tube.



I've held my UK Firelight in my mouth while looking at possible damaged tire, those polymer lights are great (leave in car) flashlights for just that reason!


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## RWT1405 (Mar 22, 2011)

In both of my Jeeps I have a SF G3 w/ M60WLF, a SF G2 (Yellow, of course!) w/ M60LL, and 2 Inova 24/7's. 

My .02 FWIW YMMV


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## lpd226 (Mar 22, 2011)

My vote goes to the rrt-0. It takes cr123's which last a long time and can handle the elements and the control ring lets you select the level of brighness with ease (no cycling through modes). O yeah and it's compact and super bright.


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## matt732 (Mar 22, 2011)

Black and Decker Flex 360 Clamp Light

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-and-Decker-Flex-360-Clamplight-3-AA/14034152

Only 15 to 20 bucks

I bought several of these and really feel comfortable with them in my wifes Jeep Wrangler. It's only 130 lumens, but that's plenty for roadside repair and other general tasks. It clamps about anywhere and the head swivels 360 degrees to put the light where you need it. It also has a strong magnet on the side so that you can mount it on a metal surface if you can't clamp it on an edge. Very flexible light and fits many needs.


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## RedLED (Mar 23, 2011)

I have had a Surefire of some kind (2-3) and CR123's in my vehicles for 22 Summers where the daytime Temp. reaches over 120F in the shade, and even hotter in a locked vehicle. Never a problem.

My house is on a 30 foot tall dune with a view, and our floor level is at 70 feet below sea level. All the car manufacturers in the world test here in the summer.

And we have summer from May thru October. 

You will have no problems with quality lights and batteries, trust me!


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## dsmegst (Mar 23, 2011)

My reason for the Quark AA (or Quark Mini AA) suggestion is "afford to lose/stolen" price point with almost all the features found in a high-end light. If I'm in a situation where I need a light, I have one AAA light on my keychain, and my EDC light. That's 3 lights 99% of the time and 2 lights even if I forget my EDC. After my wife lost one of my Surefire lights during a camping trip, I'm a bit weary about price.


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## elumen8 (Mar 23, 2011)

I keep SF G2X Pros in each of my Jeeps. I used to keep my G2/Malkoffs there but now I prefer the dual output of the G2x Pro. I also have MagLed multi-mode 2Ds under each driver seat.

JB


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## WadeF (Mar 23, 2011)

For our vehicle's flashlight I use a Fenix TK-20 with lithium AA's in it. No problems so far. In a pinch I could load it with regular AA's.


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## Lee1959 (Mar 23, 2011)

I forgot one important light which is always in the car, and one in my EDC bag, a headlamp. I load them with lithium primaries and they are always ready, headlamps are just too handy for working on anything, including vehicles. 

No matter what else, I would include a headlamp.


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## DHart (Mar 23, 2011)

I agree that the AA size makes the most sense. A good AA light like the Quark AA offers many levels of output and emergency modes (important on the road). They will run on everything from 14500 Li-ion (awesome output!), NiMh rechargeable, AA Eneloop, AA lithium, and the ubiquitous AA alkaline. This is a light you can get power for pretty much anywhere, world-wide.

When left in the car, choose the EverReady Lithium AA-size battery which is just like the CR123 lithium in shelf life and ability to deal with temperature extremes. The lithium AA may give longer performance time than the CR123 as well. EverReady lithium AA is available in most big grocery stores like Safeway as well as anywhere batteries are sold. Quark AA will toggle between max and strobe with a touch of the switch - very useful in a roadside situation.


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## recDNA (Mar 23, 2011)

I just thought of a great one. I just recently put an Eagletac P20C2 MarkII R5 in my wife's car with a couple of extra CR123 in the package. Perfect light for anything but long distance throw.


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## fresh eddie fresh (Mar 23, 2011)

I have an Icon Rogue 2 with lithium AAs in my car... I got it on sale, so I would not be too upset if it ever got lost, it has high and low settings, you can lock it out by unscrewing the bezel, and the batteries are readily available. It is always there if I need it. I do wish the body would not get so cold, but I have a Surefire Laser Products 9P pouch that fits it perfect, I store it in, so if it is cold, I could always turn the light on and then slip it back in the pouch so my hand doesn't freeze to it. Not as good as Nitrolon, but good enough for a backup.


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## Dude Dudeson (Mar 23, 2011)

DHart said:


> When left in the car, choose the EverReady Lithium AA-size battery which is just like the CR123 lithium in shelf life and ability to deal with temperature extremes..


 
No, AA lithiums are BETTER than CR123's for shelf life - by five years!

Unless there's a CR123 out there with a 15 year shelf life that I'm unaware of...


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## CarpentryHero (Mar 24, 2011)

I have a G2x pro in my glovebox. 
Lithium primaries, so far have survived this winter


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## Slashman (Mar 24, 2011)

Another vote for Lithium Primaries.

For a light I would recommend an EagleTac P20C2 Mk II (R5) -


has a very bright high
great beam pattern with nice throw but usable flood
great level spacings with long runtimes on medium and low
hidden (but accesable if needed) flashy modes


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## recDNA (Mar 24, 2011)

Dude Dudeson said:


> No, AA lithiums are BETTER than CR123's for shelf life - by five years!
> 
> Unless there's a CR123 out there with a 15 year shelf life that I'm unaware of...


 
I hope the tk41 can take lithiums.....but I really don't need more than 5 years shelf life. When I buy a new car I change batteries.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


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## shao.fu.tzer (Mar 24, 2011)

DHart said:


> One thing I forgot to mention about the Quark that makes it especially good for a vehicle/beside the road/pedestrian light is the instant toggling between MAX output and STROBE.
> 
> You can be using the light on MAX for illumination and, when you want to alert oncoming drivers and get their attention quickly, with a simple tap on the switch be instantly in STROBE mode. Then as soon as you want to return the light to illumination duties, another simple tap toggles you back to MAX. Instant switching back and forth with no complex UI to have to deal with. I think that's a priceless feature for a "beside the road" light.



I made use of the similar UI on my Neutron 1C the other night when my front driver's side tire blew out at 11PM on the freeway. I found it very convenient to be able to switch between full blast light and strobe with only a half-press, strobing the back of the car as traffic approached. A police officer showed up while we were changing the tire and tried the same technique with his Strion, and I could tell immediately he had flashlight envy.


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## Kestrel (Mar 24, 2011)

I have followed two different (simultaneous) strategies for my car lights. The cheapie 'beater', an old SureFire 6Z loaded with 2x IMR123's and a generic XR-E dropin, kept handy & in full view in the center console. Due to theft concerns of this one, I wanted a good reliable light, but well-used and not too fancy. Total cost: $51 (Including the LED dropin & rechargeable IMR cells - I also have CR123 primaries in reserve if necessary).








Under my car seat is the real deal: A 'dual fuel' setup I have been planning for years: A SureFire D3 w/ Malkoff M31W, with three sets of 2xAA NiMH Duraloops. This kit contains a significant number of CR123's (usable as single cells w/ the 2xCR123 spacer) as well as L91 AA's as backup. Total runtime = 12+ hours of ~240+ neutral (5000K) lumen goodness and maximum shelf life. Not a cheap setup ($190) so it's kept very much out of sight, and I'm confident this can handle most any reasonable task that comes up. In a real crunch, this can use 2xAA alkalines if I find myself needing more runtime away from home.






Included in the case above but not shown in the posted photo is a Solarforce L2m 1xCR123 light (w/ SF Z41 tailcap) containing a Solarforce 3-mode XP-G low-voltage dropin. This light provides maximum redundancy as all of its component parts can be swapped with the SureFire D3 if necessary, including the LED dropin - which is functionally comparable to the Malkoff M31, albeit not nearly as high of quality of course.

Finally, I also have one of the two ARC-AAA's (posted below) w/ 1x Eneloop for light duties, which also resides at-hand in the center console of my car.


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## GunnarGG (Mar 24, 2011)

Wow!
Kestrel,
I love both your "beater" and your "dual fuel" setup case.
Great stuff.


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## trooplewis (Mar 25, 2011)

Jeez, can you say overkill?
8 sets of batteries plus whatever is already in the body?


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## Kestrel (Mar 25, 2011)

GunnarGG said:


> Wow! Kestrel, I love both your "beater" and your "dual fuel" setup case. Great stuff.


Thanks, I'm pretty proud of that setup. I'm patient & methodical, so it takes me a while to finalize things, but I'm pleased with how it all came together.



trooplewis said:


> Jeez, can you say overkill? 8 sets of batteries plus whatever is already in the body?


Well, anything worth doing is worth overdoing, I always say. 

But seriously, the Malkoff M31 is a thirsty beast, it draws something like ~1.5 amps at ~2.4 Vin, so single CR123's are only good for ~45 minutes, and 2 NiMH AA's last for only 1 hr 10 minutes or so. Getting more runtime just takes more cells, but it's difficult to boost output when a dimmer configuration is spec'd. The Malkoff M31 is pretty much the tops for output on this low of a voltage.

Another way to say it, since the Malkoff M31 doesn't have a low mode, I have to provide extra runtime with sheer numbers of cells. :devil:


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## march.brown (Mar 25, 2011)

Any AA or AAA torch would be OK for leaving in the car ... I have a Romisen RC-U4 (3AAA) and a Trustfire F20 (1AA) in my car ... The important thing is to use the best possible batteries ... I only use Energiser Lithium AA & AAA batteries for my in-car torches and their date-stamp is March 2023 ... I also leave several spare batteries in the car ... I test the torches every few months, usually when I am sitting in the car waiting for my Wife ... Just a quick (few seconds) check is all that's needed.

I also have my EDC torches as reserves (just in case) ... I always carry an ITP A2 clipped in my pocket and my two keyrings each have an ITP A3 attatched ... My EDC torches are fitted with Eneloops.

You can't have too many torches ... I would rather have several of the cheaper torches than just one expensive one ... So far , I have never been let down by any of my torches ... I prefer Eneloops (or Hybrios and GP Recyko) for normal use , but the Energiser Lithiums are essential for a "fit and forget" item like a car torch.
.


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## march.brown (Mar 25, 2011)

Kestrel said:


> Well, anything worth doing is worth overdoing, I always say.


 Torches and batteries are like sex and money !

"Too much is only just enough"


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## geckoblink (Mar 25, 2011)

@Kestrel
Is there any particular reason you choose the Surefire D3 as the host? I love the setup but I also really like Nitrolon bodies and was thinking of doing the same but with a G3.


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## Kestrel (Mar 25, 2011)

geckoblink said:


> @Kestrel Is there any particular reason you choose the Surefire D3 as the host? I love the setup but I also really like Nitrolon bodies and was thinking of doing the same but with a G3.


The only reason I chose the D3 was that it came up at a good deal in CPF/MP ($76 after selling off the dropin that was in it) for the condition it was in:











Funny that you mention that you are thinking about the G3 though, prior to my D3 I actually had a G3L as a car light. Even though it had an aluminum bezel, the Malkoff M31 puts out a lot of heat on a continuous run, and I just didn't feel comfortable having the full-power M31W in there, even though it is supposedly OK when paired with an aluminum Z44 head/bezel assembly. This D3 body gets _pretty hot_ after 1h 10min of my M31W.

A possibly more practical route for you to take w/ a SF G3 is the M31W*L* IMO. Respectable output, slightly more than double the runtime compared to the M31W, and considerably less heat in the nitrolon host. The other advantage with an M31L is that 2xAA alkalines now become a realistic backup option - going from a ~1.5 amp draw of the M31W down to the ~0.7 amp draw of the M31L will increase runtime from ~20 minutes to ~*70-80 minutes* due to the increase in efficiency of the alkaline chemistry at the lower current draw (data from Silverfox).

A SF G3 w/ M31W*L* would be a winner car light, and you wouldn't need nearly so many reserve cells, LOL.


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## Racebrewer (Mar 25, 2011)

Hi Everyone,

Thanks for all of the input. At this point I've switched all of our lights over to lithium primary batteries.

And now I'm creating a "must buy" list of lights.

Much appreciated,
John:thumbsup:


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## geckoblink (Mar 25, 2011)

Kestrel said:


> Funny that you mention that you are thinking about the G3 though, prior to my D3 I actually had a G3L as a car light. Even though it had an aluminum bezel, the Malkoff M31 puts out a lot of heat on a continuous run, and I just didn't feel comfortable having the full-power M31W in there, even though it is supposedly OK when paired with an aluminum Z44 head/bezel assembly. This D3 body gets _pretty hot_ after 1h 10min of my M31W.
> 
> A possibly more practical route for you to take w/ a SF G3 is the M31W*L* IMO. Respectable output, slightly more than double the runtime compared to the M31W, and considerably less heat in the nitrolon host. The other advantage with an M31L is that 2xAA alkalines now become a realistic backup option - going from a ~1.5 amp draw of the M31W down to the ~0.7 amp draw of the M31L will increase runtime from ~20 minutes to ~*70-80 minutes* due to the increase in efficiency of the alkaline chemistry at the lower current draw (data from Silverfox).
> 
> A SF G3 w/ M31W*L* would be a winner car light, and you wouldn't need nearly so many reserve cells, LOL.


 I have an all-Nitrolon G2 with a Malkoff M61LL and it is perfectly cool even when running for hours. I was looking at the M31WL as well, but they're sold out atm so I guess I have to wait. And yes, not having to have so many batteries is definitely a plus, hehe.


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## nbp (Mar 26, 2011)

Holy cats K, you have a seriously hard core car setup. Now my lonely G2L seems so insufficient. :sigh:

But I usually have 2 or 3 lights on my person, so I think I'm ok. 

I think. :shrug:


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## teacher (Mar 26, 2011)

I leave my RAY X 60 in my truck and have experienced no problems at all.


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## ZMZ67 (Mar 26, 2011)

Kestrel said:


> I have followed two different (simultaneous) strategies for my car lights. The cheapie 'beater', an old SureFire 6Z loaded with 2x IMR123's and a generic XR-E dropin, kept handy & in full view in the center console. Due to theft concerns of this one, I wanted a good reliable light, but well-used and not too fancy. Total cost: $51 (Including the LED dropin & rechargeable IMR cells - I also have CR123 primaries in reserve if necessary).
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Very nice car lights! I am not comfortable leaving that much value in my cars but I really like your "dual-fuel" option with the SF D3/Malkoff M31W.That is an appealing set-up for emergency use at home or camping as well.


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## jdl357 (Mar 26, 2011)

I just ordered 2 Surefire G2X pros for the cars. The cold weather tolerance and long shelf of the batteries sold me on these.


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## bestcounsel (Mar 26, 2011)

Another vote for the G2L....i always carry one when possible......The Original G2L -P60L bulb can come out and you can use a p60 bulb....endless options..


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## ajl (Mar 27, 2011)

"Nitrolon body held firmly in the teeth"...if there is a next time, try holding the G2 in your armpit if you need two hands free.


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## Tana (Mar 28, 2011)

+1 for SF G2L (upgraded with Malkoff M61WL)...


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## ArmoredFiend (Mar 28, 2011)

What if it is Hot..? As in Aussie summer hot type for 365 days a year..? What sort of Battery & Flashlight could withstand such heat in the car..?


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## jtblue (Mar 28, 2011)

ArmoredFiend said:


> What if it is Hot..? As in Aussie summer hot type for 365 days a year..? What sort of Battery & Flashlight could withstand such heat in the car..?



I keep a Surefire 6P in my car and during the summer it can get too hot to touch but it always works when I need it to..... I live in S.E. QLD.


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## AmnestyC3 (Mar 29, 2011)

I would have suggested the Streamlight Sidewinder despite it's modest output based on the belief that it would be durable and have a good amount of runtime in the event you were stranded in a remote area for a day or two but mine will no longer ramp up to the highest setting after a winter sitting in the glovebox of my Jeep.

very dissapointing


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## Forward_clicky (Mar 29, 2011)

I have opted for the Streamlight Polytac 120 lumen torch.
Should be here next couple days.
Currently keeping a Stanley tripod light with alkalines in my truck now.
I am moving away from all things alkaline.


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## ZMZ67 (Mar 30, 2011)

Forward_clicky said:


> I have opted for the Streamlight Polytac 120 lumen torch.
> Should be here next couple days.
> Currently keeping a Stanley tripod light with alkalines in my truck now.
> I am moving away from all things alkaline.


 
Move quickly.........before they leak!


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## Kestrel (Mar 30, 2011)

ZMZ67 said:


> Move quickly.........before they leak!


... and there it goes ...


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## Forward_clicky (Mar 30, 2011)

Kestrel said:


> ... and there it goes ...



LOL. And that reminds me.....


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## RonReagan (Mar 30, 2011)

I use a SF G2X Pro. Plastic body helps with the temps and the dual modes give flexibility. Low for looking around the vehicle or under the hood and high for when you need to see father out.


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## Tana (Mar 31, 2011)

Cheap option: G2X Pro (before upcoming darn 2011 inflation)
Expensive option: G2L (older 80 lumen version) with Malkoff M61L or M61LL (5 vs 10 hrs of 175 or 100 lumens, beautiful beam and tint)...


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## cziv (Apr 4, 2011)

I leave a square 9 volt Eveready with a handle to carry that beast around. The lens sucks but it has good staying power.


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## Monocrom (Apr 10, 2011)

Princeton Tec EOS headlamp loaded with three lithium AAA cells.

Although any decent quality, truly water-resistant, headlamp with a bright setting will do.

When it comes to lights kept in cars, the most likely use will be checking under the hood or changing a flat tire. Not the types of jobs best performed with only one hand. A headlamp gives you light while allowing use of both hands.


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## DHart (Apr 10, 2011)

Monocrom said:


> Princeton Tec EOS headlamp loaded with three lithium AAA cells.
> 
> Although any decent quality, truly water-resistant, headlamp with a bright setting will do.
> 
> When it comes to lights kept in cars, the most likely use will be checking under the hood or changing a flat tire. Not the types of jobs best performed with only one hand. A headlamp gives you light while allowing use of both hands.


 
Hey Monocrom... excellent points!


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## Monocrom (Apr 10, 2011)

Thank you. I appreciate that.


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## duboost (May 28, 2011)

G2L w/ M61WLL and 12 cr123's (2 are in the light), plus a xeno diffusor. 120 hours of full output runtime. Just need to get a delrin tail shroud so it will tail stand.


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## Napalm (May 28, 2011)

duboost said:


> G2L w/ M61WLL and 12 cr123's (2 are in the light), plus a xeno diffusor. 120 hours of full output runtime.



Please let us know where you park your car


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## radioactive_man (May 28, 2011)

What Monocrom said, but the 3xAAA format is for suckers, mmmkay.

I suggest a Zebralight H31Fw headlamp with a primary lithium CR123 and few (thousand  ) spare batteries. You'll want something floody, and the improved color rendering of the warm model can't hurt.


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## Kestrel (Aug 28, 2012)

Just a  for this thread for folks who didn't see it the first time around.
One of the better 'Car Flashlight' threads IMO.

Best regards,


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## Tiresius (Aug 29, 2012)

I wouldn't recommend any Alkaline flashlights. I would recommend NiMH or protected lithium lights. Leave a Alkaline light in your car and you'll end up like me--a light fused onto the glove box...Not a pretty sight when them batteries leak really bad.

Know that when you leave a light in a car, it spends countless hours there without you tending it. Keep that as a factor.

In terms of an actual light, go with a multi-stage light ranging from 1 lumen to 500 lumen--in case you need to direct oncoming traffic. Everyone has a personal preference and I cannot recommend which kind to get. I just like the P60 design for this type of purpose.


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## xcel730 (Aug 29, 2012)

This is a nice thread. Great bump to revive it.

Anyway, as others have mentioned, if you're only going to be using your flashlight sparingly, then be sure to keep lithium primary batteries in your lights. You should have a few with you ... it's better to have a few cheapy backups than one expensive flashlights. I would get:

1. Headlamp - as others have mentioned, being able to free your hands to work is probably the most important.

2. Inova 24/7 or something similar - clip the light onto yourself. You can get the Inova 24/7 or one of those LED slow blinking lights that runners use. In case you're changing your tires in the dark, other drivers can see you.

3. Something inexpensive such as CountyComm's stretchlite: http://countycomm.com/stretchlite.html. I have one of these in my car. I can't say whether it's durable or not because I've only used it in non intense situation and I've never dropped it or anything. I just like the fact that I can easily convert tihs into a lantern. It's only $12, so if it breaks, I don't really care for it.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Aug 29, 2012)

a flashlight is gonna mostly be reliable, but the cells matter most

here is the one of THE most reliable cells available on the planet

Panasonic br 2/3 assp Lithium Primary
Lithium Polycarbon Monofluoride 

http://cellpacksolutions.com/Search_Data_Sheet.asp?ID=BR-2/3A

get CR123 sized. these things are rated to be used on spacecraft and missile systems, have a high heat 
rating (85C) (185F) *they can bake in a car for 12 years of summers and not give one damn and they
will not leak, ever, unless you intentionally damage it. roasting in a car will not harm them one whit.
*


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## Timothybil (Aug 29, 2012)

I picked up a couple of ICON 1AA Rouges from Woot last month @$10 USD each. My son got one and the other went to the car. I EDC a ProTac EMS so I probably don't really need a car light, but 'One is none, and two is one.' Besides, I live by the motto 'Paranoia is a useful trait!', and Murphy's corollary "Anything that can go wrong will go wrong, and at the worst possible time!".


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## Korgath (Aug 30, 2012)

Seriously, for a car 'use' which means the flashlight will hardly get any real use until and unless you're in some kind of trouble changing your tyres or stuff like that, I think some cheap ebay ones AA format with one/two lithium batteries in your car boot will do. Just do not load the cells in the flashlight and put it in when needed.

It would not make sense (well unless you have the funds) to keep a great flashlight that will sit 99.9% of the time.
Its a 'set and forget' thing ;-)


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## Dr. Strangelove (Aug 30, 2012)

Of course, you must remember that when you need a light it will probably be an emergency, so a reliable light is important. I carry three lights in my car: a LED Lenser H7 headlamp, Rayovac 2AA Indestructible and SureFire Fury. The H7 is for changing tires, etc., the Indestructible is in case I need to hand off a light in an emergency I won't worry about getting it back, and the Fury is for when I need a really bright light. I hope I don't have so many emergencies that I use these often, but they may save a life someday.
 
Plus, I like flashlights! Isn’t that reason enough?


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## 127.0.0.1 (Aug 30, 2012)

Korgath said:


> Seriously, for a car 'use' which means the flashlight will hardly get any real use until and unless you're in some kind of trouble changing your tyres or stuff like that, I think some cheap ebay ones AA format with one/two lithium batteries in your car boot will do. Just do not load the cells in the flashlight and put it in when needed.
> 
> It would not make sense (well unless you have the funds) to keep a great flashlight that will sit 99.9% of the time.
> Its a 'set and forget' thing ;-)



I pack a Novatac Storm always loaded in the 4runner ready to go, and a spare cr123 

also a Thrunite TN11 with 4xcr123 and 4xcr123 spares in my econocar

I have been in a vehicle that has rolled over, and when you are upside down in a ditch
you want to be able to grab for your light and not deal with also finding a battery for it.

when the s**t goes down and you need that light, it is best if it is loaded with cells


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## Kestrel (Aug 30, 2012)

I've done a bit of fine-tuning from my original 'dual-fuel' (AA & CR123) configuration back in post # 65:

A pair of SF C3's (one containing 2xAA NiMH LSD, one containing 1xCR123 & a two-cell spacer) - everything now has a backup, being 100% interchangeable
Additional spare CR123's
A 1xCR123 extender to change the 6Z (my center console 'handy' light, not shown here) into a three-cell body for additional compatiblity with the components of this kit.







As before, everything is configured for 2.4v / 2.5v, so all the LED dropins are compatible with all three SureFire bodies which are compatible with the two different cell chemistry configurations (2xAA NiMH LSD & 1xCR123). Furthermore, everything can run from 2xAA Alkalines if I'm away from home and need replenishment.

*15+ hours @ 240+ lumens*, or *~1500+ hours @ ~2 lumens*, two single-mode lights of the highest reliability with complete redundancy, interoperability, and component interchangeability. :thumbsup:


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## Captain Spaulding (Aug 30, 2012)

Korgath said:


> Seriously, for a car 'use' which means the flashlight will hardly get any real use until and unless you're in some kind of trouble changing your tyres or stuff like that, I think some cheap ebay ones AA format with one/two lithium batteries in your car boot will do. Just do not load the cells in the flashlight and put it in when needed.
> 
> It would not make sense (well unless you have the funds) to keep a great flashlight that will sit 99.9% of the time.
> Its a 'set and forget' thing ;-)



Um, I can't think of any situation where a "cheap eBay AA light" will do. Especially not in an emergency. You sound more like my girlfriend than a flashaholic! 
:nana:


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## DucS2R (Aug 30, 2012)

I keep two each in my car and my truck, a G2 with a Malkoff 61LLL with primaries for a nice emergency light that will last forever, mine just happen to be 219's because i like the color balance, and a brighter light for tactical purposes for SHTF issues, that varies depending on the flavor of the day. That one usually does not sit in the truck but travels with me.

T


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## ZMZ67 (Aug 30, 2012)

Kestrel said:


> I've done a bit of fine-tuning from my original 'dual-fuel' (AA & CR123) configuration back in post # 65:
> 
> A pair of SF C3's (one containing 2xAA NiMH LSD, one containing 1xCR123 & a two-cell spacer) - everything now has a backup, being 100% interchangeable
> Additional spare CR123's
> ...



Still the best overall set-up I have seen Kestrel :twothumbs Just a great kit for car or home! I can't bring myself to leave anything that nice in my cars though.......someone recently swiped my 2D Mag w/Magled out of my truck .Glad I removed the G2 that I was keeping in it! They didn't bother taking the 2AA Energizer Industrial w/Dorcy LED drop-in and it was in plain sight so I think I will stick with the cheap reliable lights for now.There is a G2/Malkoff M61NLL in my work bag that is with me most of the time so I feel pretty well equipped but I might try and add a one cell extender for the G2 so I can use 2AAs in a pinch.


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## chmsam (Aug 31, 2012)

Take it from someone who's been there/done that, roadside emergencies very often require a lot of lumens. Remember, you are not only trying to see but also to be seen. Most drivers on the road are airheads at best. I won't trust a light that cannot produce at least 200 lumens _if I need it_. A multi-level light works great and there are a lot of choices so you need not break the bank.

Lithium batteries are the only way to go in my opinion. Even low self discharge batteries will run down over time -- they're a lot better than standared NiMH but still I wouldn't trust them in the heat and cold from being left in the car for possibly years.


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## Kestrel (Aug 31, 2012)

chmsam said:


> Lithium batteries are the only way to go in my opinion. Even low self discharge batteries will run down over time -- they're a lot better than standared NiMH but still I wouldn't trust them in the heat and cold from being left in the car for possibly years.



I respectfully disagree about LSD NiMH - I can't _completely_ trust the Lithiums I have as they've never been tested. There is a _chance_ (albeit very small) they are defective and will peter out after a few hundred MAh. :shrug:

However, I have done 1-2 full runs with the rebranded Eneloops in my kit - I *know* they work to their stated capacity, and I will top them off every few years. A top quality Lithium cell is very reliable, however I can state with 100% certainty that my Duraloops *will* work to their stated capacity as they have already tested as such.

(In fact, their LSD property has also been tested - these cells were the 'Shnoopaloops' that were in storage for three years prior to being sold. These particular cells tested out at ~75% of initial capacity - spot-on for what their charge state should have been after three years in storage.)

At any rate, I do understand the debate and can see both sides of the issue. I did build a kit to include & utilize both battery chemistries to cover both angles.


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## Echo63 (Sep 1, 2012)

+1 for the SF G2 - my wife has one in her glove compartment 
my car has a bunch of lights.
Everyday it has a Narva branded rechargeable in the cigar lighter 
an Inova T3 (locked out) and SF6P/KL3 (locked out) in the glovebox
in the toolbox under the seat is an orange Eflare and a cheap arlec 6x 5mm led which neatly clips under the hood if i need to work on the car at night
it also makes a cheap loaner light 

Most days there is also a pelican case in the boot with a Maxabeam and SF L2 (the car will soon have 12v sockets for the maxabeam - i have a 25ft power cable for it)


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## thatjeepguy (Sep 5, 2012)

Somehow even in this world of amazing lights, I keep going back to my old Mag. I Keep my 6 D-cell in the back of the Jeep. Works every time. It's huge, bulky, and awkward but it works and has an insane battery life. However, it's probably not the best choice unless you have a pickup or you don't mind keeping it in the trunk.


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## sportster (Sep 5, 2012)

I keep my 3d LED Maglite in my car, I seem to change the batteries out about once a year. I've had it for about 4 years now I think, it's always been there and worked for me when I needed it.


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## Obsessed (Sep 5, 2012)

duboost said:


> G2L w/ M61WLL and 12 cr123's (2 are in the light), plus a xeno diffusor. 120 hours of full output runtime. Just need to get a delrin tail shroud so it will tail stand.



What kind of case is that? I assume you had to cut the foam yourself?

I keep a 6P LED and a box of Primaries in my glovebox, but this case is too sweet to ignore.


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## tubed (Sep 5, 2012)

Kestrel,
thanks for bumping this. excellent thread! been thinking about this a lot lately. 
I, unfortunately, am in the camp the believes the light should be inexpensive. i'd have trouble spending a lot (that's>$50 to me) for a light i'm likely to use once every two years. With my wife and kids, i'm more likely to lose this light then use it.
I'm trying to find a shingingbeam light (a romison) I think i'd like a single AA light (i'd put a lithium in it, but could buy alkalines in a pinch). I had one picked then realized I definitely want a strobe function of some kind. 
does anyone have suggestions from the shiningbeam line up?
funny - i'm sitting here holding a Princeton tech head lamp with 3 levels and a strobe (might be perfect, but then i wouldn't get to buy a new light) - i'll throw this in a car too.


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## ptnled (Sep 5, 2012)

Hi John, what kind of battery are you using for the flashlight? if it is the dry cell, you better take it out of the flashlight when you dont need to use them. If not, you should recharge them oftenly. That's my personal opinion.


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## gsr (Sep 6, 2012)

I keep a Surefire G2 and an Inova 24/7 in my cars, and they have always worked when I needed them.


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## fgials (Sep 6, 2012)

duboost said:


> G2L w/ M61WLL and 12 cr123's (2 are in the light), plus a xeno diffusor. 120 hours of full output runtime. Just need to get a delrin tail shroud so it will tail stand.



Now that is one nice setup!!


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## Yamabushi (Sep 6, 2012)

Slightly off- topic but a cheap and handy accessory for any car flashlight is a Nite Ize Gear Tie. It's a bendable rubber-coated wire that can be twisted into various shapes, e.g., a hanger to suspend a flashlight when working under the hood, a stand to point a flashlight at an angle while changing a tire, etc. I leave a headlamp in the car but I also have a couple of 24" Gear Ties to use with whatever other flashlights I happen to have with me.


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## Tiresius (Sep 8, 2012)

BUMP

+1 on the SF G2. Get some LiFePO4 cells if you want to save money. They're a lot safer than primaries but half the run times, sad to say.


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