# TiTi Twister lube



## fyrstormer (Mar 16, 2012)

I have a lot of titanium lights. All but one has screw threads. Most of their screw threads are titanium-on-titanium, and that has to be one of the most difficult-to-lubricate metal interfaces in the world. Titanium oxidizes instantly on exposure to air, and for reasons I still don't entirely understand, titanium's oxide layer repels lubrication with the greatest of ease. Since I usually end up twisting the threads on my lights the way some people fiddle with pens or rub on a worry stone while they're thinking, I became quite concerned with how all that fiddling was wearing out the threads on my lights.

I went through the process of trying all the various pre-packaged "Ti-Friendly" lubricants on the suggested here on CPF, and ultimately I didn't like any of them, so a couple years ago I started working on my own. A few months later, I came up with a formulation I called TiTi Twister 1. TiTi Twister 1 is made from hydrocarbon oil, partially gelled with Teflon powder, and doped with molybdenum di-sulfide as a rolling agent. The base oil itself is doped with climbing agents that help it overcome titanium's tendency to shed lubrication. I've used it on most of my lights ever since; it worked very well at taming even the grittiest-feeling Ti threads.

TiTi Twister 1 works great for most of my lights, but there _is_ one downside; it's quite sticky when pressed into a thin film between threads and O-rings, and makes some twisty lights hard to operate one-handed. Recently I came up with another formulation I've decided to call TiTi Twister 2, which solves that problem nicely. TTT2 is essentially the same as TTT1, except it uses a fluorocarbon oil instead of a hydrocarbon oil. (you've heard of fluorocarbon oil before; it's normally called "Krytox".) I never liked Krytox by itself, but when combined with Teflon _and_ molybdenum di-sulfide, it works very nicely. Its film isn't as sticky as TTT1, which I think reduces its lubricating ability slightly, but it also makes it easier to operate a twisty light one-handed.

Here's a picture of TTT1 and TTT2 side-by-side:







The purpose of this thread is not just to brag about spending a couple hundred hours of my evenings and weekends messing around in my kitchen with bottles of stuff that are decidedly _not_ edible. It's not a sale thread either; since I have only my own personal use as evidence of their effectiveness, I doubt I could get anyone to pay for the stuff. Rather, I'd like to know if there's anyone who would like a sample of either TTT1 or TTT2 to test on their own lights.

TTT1 is safe for nitrile, silicone, and Viton O-rings, and TTT2 is safe for all O-rings including EPDM. TTT1 has a hint of a sulfur smell to it, but it's only noticeable when you open the light to change the battery. TTT2 doesn't smell like anything as far as I can tell. TTT2 is also easier to use on a light that has already been lubricated with Krytox, as there isn't as much of a need to clean every last trace of the old Krytox off the threads. I still think TTT1 provides better lubrication all-around though, if a thorough pre-cleaning and a little whiff of chemicals when you open your light doesn't bother you.

PM me if you'd like a sample of either or both. Post questions here though, so I can answer them publicly.


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## gravelrash (Mar 16, 2012)

Wow, amazing work. I don't have a lot lot of Ti on Ti lights (just the V10r) but I must say I'm impressed. Just when I think I'm obsessed about flashlights along comes something like this to remind me I'm a noob.



fyrstormer said:


> Since I usually end up twisting the threads on my lights the way some people fiddle with pens or rub on a worry stone while they're thinking



Now that I can relate to. Taking apart quality lights and putting them back together is a tactile pleasure!


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## islw2863 (Mar 16, 2012)

I have one Ti on Ti flashlight, an Itp A3 used for keychain duty.

I like this light very much EXCEPT for the feel of titanium on titanium threads: It is uniquely gritty and unpleasant. I have tried several light and medium oils on the threads but the nasty gritty feel remains pretty much unchanged.

The gritty feel is so unpleasant I don't think I will ever buy another Ti on Ti twisty flashlight (unless this problem can be solved). If this lubricant formulation you have created solves this problem I would LOVE to try it.

You can send my sample (light or medium) to:

(PM sent)

lubricants I have tried:
[FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot]Rem Oil[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Mobil 1 10W50[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Break Free CLP[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Outers Nitro solvent Gun Cleaner[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Moly-Lithium wheel bearing grease (stinky ! )[/FONT]


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## fyrstormer (Mar 16, 2012)

gravelrash said:


> Wow, amazing work. I don't have a lot lot of Ti on Ti lights (just the V10r) but I must say I'm impressed. Just when I think I'm obsessed about flashlights along comes something like this to remind me I'm a noob.


Heh, thanks. Well, you know, when you spend $400 on a flashlight, then two, then three...until you end up with enough to stock one side of a chess board, you start to get worried about protecting that investment.  It's about more than flashlights, though; tribology (the study of friction) has intrigued me since childhood; titanium flashlights just happen to be where several of my interests converge at a single point.

The V10R Ti is a nice light, I used to have one. Since that light is a clicky and you don't use the threads often enough for a bit of stickiness to matter, and since that light only has a couple rings of threads, I'd recommend the TTT1 to use on them. Let me know if you want a sample of one or the other to try.


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## fyrstormer (Mar 16, 2012)

islw2863 said:


> I have one Ti on Ti flashlight, an Itp A3 used for keychain duty.
> 
> I like this light very much EXCEPT for the feel of titanium on titanium threads: It is uniquely gritty and unpleasant. I have tried several light and medium oils on the threads but the nasty gritty feel remains pretty much unchanged.
> 
> The gritty feel is so unpleasant I don't think I will ever buy another Ti on Ti twisty flashlight (unless this problem can be solved). If this lubricant formulation you have created solves this problem I would LOVE to try it.


As I mentioned in my reply to your PM, there will always be some roughness in the feel of titanium threads, but there is a distinct difference between the sensation of tiny lubricant flakes sliding past each other vs. the sensation of little bits of titanium grinding off the threads. After trying the commercially-available lubricants, I concluded that titanium threads are only really happy when they have a rolling agent (whether MoS2, copper, baking soda as some have recommended, or just a bunch of ground-up Ti shavings) keeping the threads from scrubbing against each other. Given the choice, I'd rather use a lube that has the rolling agent added ahead of time, to save the threads the trouble of making their own "additives". 

Since the iTP A3 is an AAA light and it has a narrow diameter, the TTT2 is probably a better fit since it's not as sticky. Since you already gave me your address, I'll send some your way as soon as I've mixed up another batch of the stuff.


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## Beamhead (Mar 16, 2012)

Interesting name, I have my own mix I call purple nurple slurple. 
I have used Krytox grease with great success but perhaps you have improved upon it?


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## fyrstormer (Mar 16, 2012)

Heh. The name was inspired by the ridiculous names for the various oils and greases used on bicycles; names like Gorilla Snot, Weasel Fat, redruM, etc. I think "TiTi Twister" does a decent job of conveying its intended use while also being funny.

I think I've improved on the standard 50:50 Krytox blend with the TTT2, yes. It works quite well on the few lights I have that the TTT1 was too sticky for. Whether it works for anyone else is something I'll get to find out when the samples go out to the people who've PMed me.


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## BVH (Mar 16, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> Heh. The name was inspired by the ridiculous names for the various oils and greases used on bicycles; names like Gorilla Snot, Weasel Fat, redruM, etc. I think "TiTi Twister" does a decent job of conveying its intended use while also being funny.



Hey! Gorilla Snot was actually Yellow Peril, AKA 3M yellow adhesive.


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## fyrstormer (Mar 17, 2012)

Hmm. Must've gotten that one confused. Oh well.


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## dingo1799 (Mar 19, 2012)

BVH said:


> Hey! Gorilla Snot was actually Yellow Peril, AKA 3M yellow adhesive.



aka Gookempockey!!!!


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## dingo1799 (Mar 19, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> As I mentioned in my reply to your PM, there will always be some roughness in the feel of titanium threads, but there is a distinct difference between the sensation of tiny lubricant flakes sliding past each other vs. the sensation of little bits of titanium grinding off the threads. After trying the commercially-available lubricants, I concluded that titanium threads are only really happy when they have a rolling agent (whether MoS2, copper, baking soda as some have recommended, or just a bunch of ground-up Ti shavings) keeping the threads from scrubbing against each other. Given the choice, I'd rather use a lube that has the rolling agent added ahead of time, to save the threads the trouble of making their own "additives".
> 
> Since the iTP A3 is an AAA light and it has a narrow diameter, the TTT2 is probably a better fit since it's not as sticky. Since you already gave me your address, I'll send some your way as soon as I've mixed up another batch of the stuff.




i have a couple new ti lights inbound, and also worry about thread feel, i have several special lubes im going to try, if you're interested in getting some feedback, i'll give your stuff a whirl


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## fyrstormer (Mar 19, 2012)

Sounds good, I'll add you to the list.

Speaking of which, here's a list of people who've asked for samples (and in some cases, sent me money for shipping and gratuities) thus far:
- stoli67
- islw2863
- turboBB
- legtu
- zipplet
- dingo1799
- sionnach
- gravelrash
- KuKu427
- awenta
(limit of 10 for the time being; I can only afford to give out so much of the stuff for free)

I figure to make things easier I'll just include both samples in each package.


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## sionnach (Mar 19, 2012)

I'm interested in samples as well.
Let me know PayPal address and I'll send $ for shipping. Thanks!


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## fyrstormer (Mar 19, 2012)

PM sent.


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## gravelrash (Mar 19, 2012)

I'll take you up on your offer. PM Sent. What can I send you in return? I'd be happy to send you some cash or ???


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## KuKu427 (Mar 19, 2012)

PM sent.


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## awenta (Mar 20, 2012)

Ive been looking for something good too. Wouldn't mind trying this stuff out. +1 for spending so much time and giving back to us. Maybe it'll get big. Best of luck.


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## fyrstormer (Mar 20, 2012)

Is that a sly request for a sample, awenta?  There *is* one more spot on the list.


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## xith (Mar 23, 2012)

I'll try some bud.. if there's available. I'll gladly toss you a few bux for shipping and time spent.

-Xith


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## DM51 (Mar 23, 2012)

If there is any further demand for (or supply of) samples, whether sold or provided free, this will have to transfer to the MP as a sale thread.


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## fyrstormer (Mar 23, 2012)

Understood. I'm not trying to sell anything outside of the appropriate forums created for that purpose.

In other news, the sample syringes were supposed to show up on Wednesday, but they didn't. The vendor owes me a callback about the reason for the delay.


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## zipplet (Mar 23, 2012)

Cheers for the update fyrstormer, it will be well worth the wait


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## fyrstormer (Mar 24, 2012)

Good news and irritating news. Good news: the syringes arrived today, and the lube is all packaged. Irritating news: the [very nice people] who sold me the syringes didn't bother to include endcaps, so it'll be a few more days while I wait for those to arrive.

Just in case anyone thinks I'm stringing them along, here's a pic for proof:







Progress.


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## tobrien (Mar 25, 2012)

i heard about this through turbobb, very nice work is all i can say. this is the sort of stuff that makes CPF great (among many reasons!)!


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## fyrstormer (Mar 25, 2012)

Thanks for the moral support, tobrien.


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## Bullzeyebill (Mar 27, 2012)

PM coming to you with a suggestion.

Bill


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## fyrstormer (Mar 29, 2012)

Syringe caps showed up yesterday. All samples will go out in the mail by Friday.


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## fyrstormer (Mar 30, 2012)

Status of everyone's samples:

- stoli67 - International - _*Shipped*_
- islw2863 - Domestic - *Shipped*
- turboBB - Domestic - _*Shipped*_
- legtu - International - _*Shipped*_
- zipplet - International - _*Shipped*_
- dingo1799 - Domestic - _*Shipped*_
- sionnach - Domestic - _*Shipped*_
- gravelrash - Domestic - _*Shipped*_
- KuKu427 - International - _*Shipped*_
- awenta - Domestic - _*Shipped*_

Okay, that's everyone. Let me know what you think.


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## KuKu427 (Apr 5, 2012)

Mine just arrived.
Effective in smoothing out the threads in a 44DD proto when the threads are under stress. 
Hum... where did the two thumbs up smiley go?


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## fyrstormer (Apr 5, 2012)

Yay! Glad it worked. Which one did you try?

That was quick time to Taiwan. I expected it would take a full week...though I suppose for you it's already Friday afternoon.


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## KuKu427 (Apr 6, 2012)

The TTT2, don't have the second proto. Will try that when it comes back.


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## tobrien (Apr 6, 2012)

is this TiTi all natural or has it been augmented with, say, silicone?


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## fyrstormer (Apr 6, 2012)

Heh. It's entirely synthetic, but no, there is no silicone in it.


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## awenta (Apr 6, 2012)

Awesome stuff, works great! Keep up the good work! :thumbsup::thanks:


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## fyrstormer (Apr 10, 2012)

Hey guys, it's been about a week since the last shipments (should've) arrived; anyone have any more feedback?


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## dingo1799 (Apr 10, 2012)

me likey!

i'd like to see how it is on a ti v10r, but its in pieces waiting for a ti trit switch, and veleno's 2nd run of trit cooling fins


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## fyrstormer (Apr 10, 2012)

Which version(s) have you tried thus far?


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## zipplet (Apr 10, 2012)

Mine hasn't arrived yet - but we have just had the long easter weekend. I'm expecting it to turn up sometime this week now.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 10, 2012)

Hmm. Well, KuKu's arrived in Taiwan already, so hopefully there isn't some Customs snafu getting in the way.


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## zipplet (Apr 11, 2012)

Mine turned up today! I'll post my results here shortly


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## stoli67 (Apr 19, 2012)

I have tried number 1 on my Ti PDS and it worked very nicely.... one handed operation is now quite easy.

I will try number 2 on another light over the weekend


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## fyrstormer (Apr 19, 2012)

Cool! I'm actually surprised to hear TTT1 made your PD-S easier to turn (though it certainly should be_ smoother)_, as I created TTT2 to address the "problem" in my mind that some twisty lights were too difficult to twist using TTT1. However, if it works for you I'm certainly not going to disagree. I use TTT2 on my McLux3-T, which for some reason is a little harder to twist than my other PD-style lights.


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## legtu (Apr 23, 2012)

i got mine.

i'll be testing them out when i get some free time. 

as for initial impression(s).
-my TTT1 sample seems to have developed some separation between its components. i can clearly see through the syringe that an oil-like substance has separated from the thicker substance. it looks like it's not a homogenous mixture anymore but i don't see any major issues with it since i should be able to mix them up again within the syringe.
-the TTT1 does smell kinda funky. i'm not detecting anything with the TTT2.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 23, 2012)

Hmm. The TTT1 does separate a bit over time, though I'm surprised it happened so quickly with your sample. I'll have to revisit that to see if I can stabilize the mixture better.


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## RocketTomato (Apr 23, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> TTT2 is essentially the same as TTT1, except it uses a fluorocarbon oil instead of a hydrocarbon oil. (you've heard of fluorocarbon oil before; it's normally called "Krytox".) I never liked Krytox by itself, but when combined with Teflon _and_ molybdenum di-sulfide, it works very nicely.



Krytox oil thickened with Teflon is basically what Krytox grease is.

Does the Molybdenum disulfide additive you use stain clothes or skin?


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## fyrstormer (Apr 23, 2012)

RocketTomato said:


> Krytox oil thickened with Teflon is basically what Krytox grease is.


Yes, I use the pre-mixed Krytox grease in TTT2. For TTT1 I have to mix the Teflon and the petroleum oil myself.



RocketTomato said:


> Does the Molybdenum disulfide additive you use stain clothes or skin?


It is *supposed* to be dry flakes, so they should wash off just fine -- but they are extremely small dry flakes, so I could envision them getting stuck in white cotton fabric and never completely washing out. However, I haven't had any staining issues that I've noticed in the couple years I've been testing the stuff.


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## gravelrash (Apr 26, 2012)

I finally had some time to play with the TTT lube I received (thanks fyr!).

I tried the TTT1 on an Eagletac D25C Mini Titanium after a cleaning. I will admit that I did not use any solvent to clean the old lube, just a lot of work. It doesn't take much lube and TTT1 is thin enough that it seemed to "wick" a bit into the threads. This light has a twisty interface and it definitely felt smoother with the TTT1 lube. It still has a bit of a gritty feeling in the threads. Maybe gritty is too strong a word. I found that I can now use the light with one hand (mostly) reliably where I could not before - even the special modes. TTT1 is very dark; you know when you've got some on you. I will say that it does, as noted previously, have a smell. I guess I am more sensitive to it than others; it actually gave me a headache and made me nauseous for a few minutes. Next time I'll use it outside. I also noticed that it seemed to have a bit of "bind" when the head is tightened to the body and took a bit of torque from my hand to get it loose again. To be fair, it seemed to exhibit this same behavior with the factory lubrication.

I tried the TTT2 on my V10r Ti. This light does not have a twisty interface; it just screws together. After a good cleaning with a cloth I put a bit on. It is definitely thicker than TTT1 but still easy to apply. It seems to be a bit lighter in color than TTT1 but still dark. It does not have a smell that I could sense. The light was pretty smooth with TTT2 and exhibited less of the "bind" I felt with TTT1. I really like this lube.

Overall I like TTT2 better than TTT1, but to be fair I want to clean these two lights (my only TI lights), swap lubes and note any differences.

I would also like to try them on an HDS and a Surefire. Fyrstormer, do you recommend these lubes for non-TI lights?


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## fyrstormer (Apr 27, 2012)

TTT2 seems to be the favorite thus far, which doesn't really surprise me; I didn't want to "go public" until I found a way around the smell of TTT1, even though it works well and doesn't really smell like anything when the light is in-use. Naturally, TTT2 is also far more expensive to make. :ironic: Thanks for the feedback though, it's great to see people are using it and liking it.

There will always be some roughness in Ti-on-Ti threads, even with my lubes, because my lubes introduce ceramic powder into the interface between the threads. However, what that ceramic powder accomplishes is it gets in the way and prevents the Ti from binding together on a microscopic level and tearing off little bits of itself, thus allowing the threads to self-polish over time the way steel and brass do. The roughness you feel now will taper off as the threads start to self-polish.

I suppose they would work on non-Ti lights, but for aluminum, brass, and steel I prefer wheel-bearing grease. If _one_ of the thread pairs is Ti, liquid oil works better than grease, because Ti really needs a lube that can re-flow around the threads when they're twisted; for the brass-on-Ti threads on my Muyshondt and Jetbeam lights, I use Nano Oil. Nano Oil also works well on aluminum and steel, but I prefer the heavily-damped feel of wheel-bearing grease.


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## Draven451 (Apr 27, 2012)

Any plans on another batch of TTT2?

Inquiring minds want to know


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## fyrstormer (Apr 27, 2012)

Yes, I do plan to offer it for sale. There are several ducks I have to line up, though, and there's this "life" thing that keeps distracting me from my hobbies with stuff like "working for a living", "cooking dinner", and "keeping the girlfriend happy". I will post a sale thread when I'm confident that I'm in a position to fill orders in a timely fashion.


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## tobrien (Apr 29, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> Yes, I do plan to offer it for sale. There are several ducks I have to line up, though, and there's this "life" thing that keeps distracting me from my hobbies with stuff like "working for a living", "cooking dinner", and "keeping the girlfriend happy". I will post a sale thread when I'm confident that I'm in a position to fill orders in a timely fashion.


very nice man, i'll be first if draven doesn't beat me


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## PhotonFanatic (May 10, 2012)

I find threads dealing with thread (no pun intended) lubrication to be fascinating, but somewhat off the mark. 

I'd be much more interested in an analysis of thread surface finish and % of thread engagement, combined with various lubricants.

As one who has cut a fair number of threads in Ti, most of which have been very smooth, I will readily admit that there are outliers--some threads just come out not perfect and will require some further work, usually with diamond polishing compounds to remove the roughness. And then there are the really sad cases, where the threads seem perfectly normal, smooth, etc., and yet when you screw the pieces together, they gall--end of light. :-(

In my opinion, the few cases of galling have occurred when the thread engagement has been fairly large, like over 75%, and I have inadvertently over-tightened the pieces. The forces generated when screwing items together are incredible, and not to be taken lightly--so my advice is to never tighten Ti pieces together with any force.

However, in my experience, what makes for really smooth Ti threads has nothing to do with the lubricant, and everything to do with the surface finish on the threads--get the surface roughness down to next to nothing and you will have great threads that will not bind, will not feel rough or gritty (unless you get dirt in them), and will not require lubrication at all.

Can some lubricants improve poorly made threads--absolutely. Nano Oil does that, and from what I've read in this thread, fyrstormer's ceramic powder may be doing the same thing.

My advice, though, for those who have gritty threads? First, get them absolutely clean, or as clean as possible. I like to wash them in boiling water with dishwashing detergent, in lieu of an ultrasonic cleaner, but if you have an ultrasonic cleaner, use that. Second, invest in some diamond lapping compounds--I'd suggest a range from 18 microns down to 1micron. Start by applying a small amount on opposite sides of the male threads, apply some light oil, and then with a light touch thread the pieces together and keep going back and forth, screwing/unscrewing, until you reach the end of the threads. Remove the compounds and drop down to the finer grade.

Is that a lot of work? Yes it is, but once you've done it, let me know how they feel. :devil:


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## fyrstormer (May 10, 2012)

Interesting to have a machinist's perspective on the issue. Thread quality is definitely a concern, as even macroscopically-smooth threads are still microscopically rough, and most titanium lights don't even achieve macroscopic smoothness. Pretty much every titanium light I own, except for a few custom-made pieces, have required cleaning machining debris out of the threads, which is always "fun", because titanium splinters may be super-thin and flexible, but they'll cling to the threads by their still-attached end with incredible strength for their size.

However, I have cleaned titanium threads with boiling water, solvents, and manual scrubbing many times, and sometimes polished them too (though not with diamond compounds), and the grittiness always returns eventually. You're certainly correct that smooth clean threads are far better than rough dirty threads, and making sure the threads are clean and free of burrs and splinters is of course the first step. However, due to the nature of titanium, even mirror-smooth threads will eventually become rough again, as the soft oxide layer scrubs off unevenly and exposes the underlying metal to direct contact in some spots and not others.

There is also the issue of accumulated dirt -- I can't speak for anyone but myself, but I've never managed to keep the threads on my lights perfectly clean of lint and tiny bits of dirt indefinitely, and those get wedged in the threads and start scratching things up, accelerating the breakdown of whatever polished surface you may have managed to achieve. Periodic refinishing is a valid option for those who have the patience, but I prefer to take the approach of modifying the frictional interaction between the threads using a good lubricant so I don't _need_ to worry about whether the threads are perfectly clean and smooth. That's why I spent so much of my free time developing TiTi Twister in the first place.

- - -

Speaking of which, I've ordered the materials to make for-sale batches of TTT1 and TTT2. This isn't a sale thread, obviously, but I will open one when the lube is ready, which should be sometime next week.


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## fyrstormer (May 30, 2012)

Well, that took longer than expected. However, a nice fresh batch of TiTi Twister II is mixed, packaged, labeled, and ready for sale. The sale thread is over on CPF Marketplace.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/deusexaethera/sales/CIMG5247.jpg


Your image is too large and has been replaced with a link. Please resize and repost.
See Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. - Thanks Norm


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## fyrstormer (Jun 7, 2012)

Plenty still available for sale here if anyone wants some.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 16, 2012)

coupla months now using TiTi 2, on what was a gritty-arse Ti light

only seems to get smoother over time if anything..turned a 30-grit scrape onto butter


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## Onthelightside (Nov 16, 2012)

Very cool stuff. I don't own any titanium lights (too expensive) but this seems like a great product. I am a Chemical Engineering student and I find it quite amusing that you made this in your kitchen .


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## fyrstormer (Nov 18, 2012)

127.0.0.1 said:


> coupla months now using TiTi 2, on what was a gritty-arse Ti light
> 
> only seems to get smoother over time if anything..turned a 30-grit scrape onto butter


Glad it continues to work well for you.


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## fyrstormer (Nov 18, 2012)

Onthelightside said:


> Very cool stuff. I don't own any titanium lights (too expensive) but this seems like a great product. I am a Chemical Engineering student and I find it quite amusing that you made this in your kitchen .


Sadly, I lack an out-building that I can put a machine shop in, unlike some of the more rural CPF contributors, so my kitchen will have to do.  It just gives me an incentive to be extra careful.


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## Vortus (Dec 17, 2012)

Used on my ET D25am Ti. Threads were gritty. But, I'd been twisting it off an on since I got it, when ever they came out. It had smoothed somewhat, but wasn't as nice as I wanted. So decided to give this a shot. A significant improvement. Just as easy for one hand now as my old jb cle and pd1. Quite impressed. Well worth the cost. And if it improves with time, even better.

As I doubt any manufacturer aside from custom types will go to the extent of diamond polishing for threads, this lube is needed. Thanks.


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## davidwestonh (Dec 18, 2012)

Has anyone used a titanium product with rolled threads?
would that be as sticky?


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## bltkmt (Oct 1, 2013)

What is the best method of cleaning threads on a TI Aeon before putting this lube on?


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## fyrstormer (Oct 2, 2013)

It depends on what's currently on the threads, I suppose. If it was lubed with a petroleum product, CNC Airflow Sensor Cleaner from the auto parts store should work fine. (it may cause the foam ring to swell temporarily, though.) If it was lubed with a silicone product, I'm not sure what would work, other than mechanically removing as much lube as possible and then scrubbing the threads with soapy water and a toothbrush. (I've done this before, I haven't had any problems with the electronics, I just made sure to let it dry overnight before using it again.)


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## fyrstormer (Feb 8, 2014)

FINALLY BACK IN STOCK! I have another batch of TTT2 ready for sale over on CPFM.

Please email me all orders, because I don't check this forum as much as I used to, and I don't want anyone to sit around waiting for days or weeks wondering why I haven't answered.


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## fyrstormer (Feb 11, 2015)

I've got another batch of TTT2 ready for sale on CPFM, if anyone has been waiting for it to come back in-stock.

Hmm, I seem to have posted the same thing in February of last year. Clearly the holidays do a good job of keeping me busy.


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## tobrien (Aug 4, 2015)

do you still make this stuff? I'd be interested to see how it is on my Haiku vs what it came with


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## lightlover (Aug 4, 2015)

PhotonFanatic said:


> ... I'd be much more interested in an analysis of thread surface finish and % of thread engagement, combined with various lubricants. ...



*PhotonFanatic, *
thanks for that post. Did you ever find info about thread finish etc? 
Are there not standards for thread tolerances, various "grades"?

*fyrstormer, *
congratulations on your magnificent pursuit, in the finest spirit of CPF!
AND - you got somewhere, according to all the the feedback. 

Where's your sales topic please? (Sorry, I did look around).



*Oh, anyone feel like adding themselves to the CPF Members Map, there's a link in my signature line.*


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## fyrstormer (Aug 11, 2015)

I haven't looked for my sale thread since CPFM was converted into the CPF Mall, or whatever it was that happened. I don't have any more lube currently available, and to be honest I'm not sure when I will -- between work, other hobbies, and getting on with my life, it's been a while since I've been able to devote an evening to mixing stuff together in a tub for what has to be the most niche product of all time. I'll make sure to post a notice if/when I have another batch ready.


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## tobrien (Aug 12, 2015)

fyrstormer said:


> I haven't looked for my sale thread since CPFM was converted into the CPF Mall, or whatever it was that happened. I don't have any more lube currently available, and to be honest I'm not sure when I will -- between work, other hobbies, and getting on with my life, it's been a while since I've been able to devote an evening to mixing stuff together in a tub for what has to be the most niche product of all time. I'll make sure to post a notice if/when I have another batch ready.



no worries man! I shared my last tube with a few CPFers last time


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## lightlover (Aug 12, 2015)

fyrstormer said:


> ... the most niche product of all time. I'll make sure to post a notice if/when I have another batch ready.



Thanks - looking forward to the day (if ever).


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## darkangel55555 (Jun 29, 2016)

Any chance someone's got more of this stuff? I'm down to my last two cc...


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