# Zebralight SC5c II vs SC53w - a comparison



## Swede74 (Aug 23, 2017)

The main purpose of this thread is to discuss differences between two new AA lights from Zebralight: the SC5 II and the SC53.

For specific information about the SC5c II, I recommend this thread, and for information about the SC53c/w, I recommend this thread.




SC5 IISC53Head diameter1.0 inch (25.4 mm)0.96 inch (23.6 mm)Length3.2 inch (80.3 mm)3 inch (77.6 mm) Weight1.8 oz (49 gram) 1.4 oz (40 gram)









*Zebralight SC5c II**Zebralight SC53c**Zebralight SC53w*
*Output**Time**lumens*h**Output**Time**lumens*h**Output**Time**lumens*h**H1*475+352

2850,9h2573300,9h297*H2a*3520,9h3172381,6h3812751,6h440*H2b*2361,5h3541712,3h3931982,3h455*H2c*1442,8h4031064,2h4451224,2h512*M1*794,9h387568,5h476658,5h552*M2a*
40
9,6h3842621h5463021h630*M2b*1821h37810,341h4221241h492*M2c*7,448h3553,54,5d3784,14,5d442*L1*2,84,2d282113d342
1,213d374*L2a*114d3360,261,1mo2090,31
1,1mo250*L2b*0,2850d3360,062,2mo970,072,2mo113*L2c*0,084,3mo2520,013,3mo240,0133,3mo31

Output, runtimes and dimensions provided by Zebralight

SC5c II pros: Noticeably brighter on H1. 
 More aggressive knurling (personal preference)
Warmer tint (personal preference) and higher CRI

SC5c II cons: Clip is much too tight
Switch feels "gritty" when the light gets very hot. (my specimen) I believe this is caused by air trapped underneath the switch cover. 


SC53w pros: If I am interpreting the data in my own table correctly, the SC53w is significantly more efficient in H2, M1 and M2
Smaller size. It actually feels even smaller in the hand than the dimensions suggest. 

SC53w cons: Clip is still on the tight side, but not nearly as bad as the SC5c. 







Side by side. 











Looks can deceive. The SC53w is smaller than its big brother SC5c II. 
















Pogo pins inside the SC5 II tailcap; the spring inside the SC53 tailcap is larger than the one used for the SC52






LED slightly off-center on the SC53w. It does not seem to affect beam pattern. 






That blob of solder is somewhat annoying, like a very small chip in the paint on the inside of the fuel cap door on a brand new car. It does not affect performance, but once you have discovered that it is there, it takes a while to push it to the back of your mind.
















I used Zak's excellent app Ceilingbounce for the runtime tests.


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## iamlucky13 (Aug 23, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> The main purpose of this thread is to discuss differences between two new AA lights from Zebralight: the SC5 II and the SC53.



Excellent comparison! Thanks for taking the time to do this. I've been hoping somebody would.

Are you going to do any side-by-side beamshots?



Swede74 said:


> If I am interpreting the data in my own table correctly, the SC53w is significantly more efficient in H2, M1 and M2



The M2A lumen-hours figure works works out to 182 lumens/Watt for Eneloop Pro in the SC53c. That's not fundamentally out of the question, but I'm a bit awestruck if the driver and LED really do work so efficiently together in low modes.



Swede74 said:


> Smaller size. It actually feels even smaller in the hand than the dimensions suggest.



How about for pocket fit?

Is there any chance you have access to a pair of calipers to take a measurement of the width of the narrower side of the head on the H53?


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## ven (Aug 23, 2017)

Awesome pics and info, thanks for taking the time and sharing swede


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## markr6 (Aug 23, 2017)

Thanks! I've been using my SC52w a bit more lately, and always disappointed all the new 1xAA are not that size. It's not much on paper, but a HUGE difference when you pick it up.

I'm guessing the SC53w is pretty close to the SC52w, but it's hard to tell without having both. I can say, the SC5 (version 1) was a brick!


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## Keitho (Aug 23, 2017)

Very interesting lumen*hr numbers. I would have guessed it getting more and more efficient the lower the level, but it peaks around M2. I guess I thought I kinda understood how the ZL drivers worked, but I must be wrong. 

By the way, I found the clip little too tight, also. A little judicious bending got it juuuust right.

I'm loving my new SC53c, it is a tiny little beauty with a great high CRI beam, perfect for me around the house. It is by itself on my nightstand. If I want more lumens, there is always a D4 or another Zebralight close by me (that I can use to help find my X7vn)!


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## Swede74 (Aug 23, 2017)

iamlucky13 said:


> Excellent comparison! Thanks for taking the time to do this. I've been hoping somebody would.
> 
> Are you going to do any side-by-side beamshots?



Of course, how could I forget? I knew there was something I was supposed to do...





SC53w to the left, SC5c II to the right. Both lights on max output. ISO 200, white balance set to "Daylight"





SC53w to the left, SC5c II to the right. Both lights on max output. ISO 200, white balance set to "Fluorescent"





Both lights in M1, WB=Daylight






Both lights in M1, WB=Fluorescent





Max output, WB=Fluorescent





Max output, WB=Fluorescent




iamlucky13 said:


> How about for pocket fit?



It fits all my pockets  Since I do not mind carrying something as big as a SC600 in my trouser pocket (I usually wear loose-fit clothes) I may not be the best person to ask about pocket fit. 



iamlucky13 said:


> Is there any chance you have access to a pair of calipers to take a measurement of the width of the narrower side of the head on the H53?



I have access to a pair of low budget calipers but using them is not my forte. I am not exactly sure what you mean by the narrower side of the head - I assume you you mean the side that sort of tapers, where the switch is located. I have tried to take some measurements, I hope you will find what you are looking for somewhere in the following bunch of pictures. 






Link to full size image: https://s29.postimg.org/7aqschj8n/image.jpg






Link to full size image: https://s29.postimg.org/ocjmeky3r/image.jpg























ven said:


> Awesome pics and info, thanks for taking the time and sharing swede



You are very welcome! 



markr6 said:


> I'm guessing the SC53w is pretty close to the SC52w, but it's hard to tell without having both. I can say, the SC5 (version 1) was a brick!








The SC53 is ever so slightly smaller. On the outside, that is. :laughing:



Keitho said:


> I'm loving my new SC53c, it is a tiny little beauty with a great high CRI beam, perfect for me around the house. It is by itself on my nightstand.



The "w"-version is just as easy to fall in love with. Since I rarely need more than 300-500 lumens, I believe mine will become a constant companion on nightly walks this fall.


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## Dio (Aug 23, 2017)

Hello all! Nice thread!!

I joined the forum here (been lurking a while) as I just got a SC53Fc and SC5W II the other day and wanted to add some thoughts and reflections on the two..

Firstly, a few people will likely think I made a typo - I didn't - I did in fact get a SC53Fc. 

Due to reading numerous people complaining about the mixed up beam colours (and overall lean towards yellow) of the "c" emitters that ZL are currently using, I decided to request a frosted lens to smooth things out. I also prefer a floody beam for most of my uses around the house and while walking at night. 

ZL were more than happy to help and judging by the fact the light and box both came marked SC53Fc I have concluded the "F" models must be nearly in production anyway. That or their customer satisfaction is just _that_ good they were willing to do a semi custom order and mark the light to suit?!?


OK, so the part you all want to know, how it performs.. in a word: awesome! It certainly has an overall yellow tint when there is a fair amount of ambient light and when compared to the SC5W II but when used at night, on its' own, it is truly something else. I live in the bush so my uses mostly entail viewing lots of green/browns and usually a distinct or complete lack of white surfaces and objects so for these situations it really does well. 

Unfortunately I was walking with both lights and after using the SC5w II for a while, the SC53c did appear a little off in terms of beam tint.

What this all means to me is that I am now giving the SC53Fc to the Mrs as she commented how warm it was and really likes its size "it's just perfect" is how she described the feel of it in her hands and I have to agree. I will obviously be requesting a SC53Fw now to ensure I have two lights with similar tint.

The SC5 II feels awesome compared to the original chunky beast that was the SC5 but the SC53 just feels even better IMO. My hands aren't huge but aren't small either and I took the clips straight off so that may play a part in perceived comfort..

Overall, SC5w II has great tint (not perfect uniform tint from hotspot to spill but beautiful white hotspot) when used other than wall hunting and SC53Fc has beautiful tint when used alone. SC53 just feels perfect in my hand but the SC5 II is very close behind. I think I prefer the lack of knurling and finger groove the SC53 offers. If the SC53 had the same output as SC5 II then it would be a no brainer -> SC53 all day.. As it stands I chose the SC5 for that bit more throw and the SC53 (with frosted lens) as I really don't _need_ more than 300L of floody light to illuminate up to 10m in front of me. My strides are 1m max so really don't need to see more than 10 steps ahead of me to comfortably walk at night...

Hopefully someone got something out of all of that


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## timbo813 (Aug 23, 2017)

I just got a sc53c a couple days ago. It's my first zebralight and I am very impressed. The light feels smaller than I expected. The quality and interface are great. I can see why so many people love zebralight. It makes a lot of sense that they have one interface that works well and they stick with it. (Yes, the new ones have additional options but the basic programming is still the same)

The color of the beam is taking a little getting used to. It doesn't seem as bright but you can still see what you are looking at very well. Seems to have less light bounce back. Colors definitely do show up better than my cool white lights. As I use it more the color is growing on me.


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## Nichia! (Aug 24, 2017)

Excellent comparison, thank you


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## markr6 (Aug 24, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> The SC53 is ever so slightly smaller. On the outside, that is. :laughing:


Perfect!! Even smaller...I may need to get one of these.


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## Zak (Aug 24, 2017)

I'm curious about how the numbers hold up in independent testing. Those lumen-hour numbers in particular assume perfectly constant output, and that just isn't so for most lights even with a boost driver. Some runtime graphs and actual lumen-hour numbers would be, err... illuminating. Rumor has it there's an app for that.

It looks like the corona and spill are a significantly different tint from the hotspot in some of the SC5c shots, which seems to be a common issue with the latest generation of Cree products. Does it look that way in person? I really wish Zebralight didn't hate Nichia.


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## ven (Aug 24, 2017)

My sc5c mkII XP-L2 easywhite 4000k hi cri is different to the above pics. It is yellow , quite a bit more yellow from the several 219c 4000k nichia's i have(if anyone knows the 219c 4k they will know what i mean by towards yellow, like a 219b can be rosy). The 219c 4000k is towards yellow, but nowhere like this XP-L2..............it is yellow. Once i got used to it , its not as bad as i 1st thought. Just not ideal to compare with other "tints" as it makes it worse still. However yellow apart! it does make colours look great(other than whites which look discoloured............dirty:duh2. I can cope and do enjoy it when used, but i wont be getting another xp-l2 easywhite unless guaranteed no yellow or at least a lot less yellow.


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## Swede74 (Aug 24, 2017)

I should mention that my camera exaggerates the difference between the two lights. Not so much the plate and the food items, but the white towel under the plate does not look as red/rosy in real life when illuminated by the SC5c II as it does in the picture.


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## Swede74 (Aug 24, 2017)

Zak said:


> I'm curious about how the numbers hold up in independent testing. Those lumen-hour numbers in particular assume perfectly constant output, and that just isn't so for most lights even with a boost driver. Some runtime graphs and actual lumen-hour numbers would be, err... illuminating. Rumor has it there's an app for that.



I have downloaded your app and am in the process of doing a runtime test on the SC53w in H1. Since I have no one to hold my hand and walk me through  calibration, building a proper integration device and other technical stuff, and due to time constraints and sheer laziness, I doubt any more tests will follow. I will, however, post a runtime graph if and when I figure out how to do it. 





I opened the door to my integration wardrobe a couple of times during the test, and might have inadvertently blocked the light sensor while looking at the screen. 

I think I have to put my laziness on the pack burner and redo the test, just to make sure the SC53w was really in H1. ~70 minutes sounds almost too good to be true. I used a brand new, fully charged Fujitsu HR-3UTHC, 2450mAh cell. 

Edit: I redid the test and got a more plausible result. See next post. The graph above probably reflects runtime in H2 (275 lm). Sorry about the confusion. 



Zak said:


> It looks like the corona and spill are a significantly different tint from the hotspot in some of the SC5c shots, which seems to be a common issue with the latest generation of Cree products. Does it look that way in person? I really wish Zebralight didn't hate Nichia.



Yes, unfortunately. It is quite noticeable in person.


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## Swede74 (Aug 24, 2017)




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## markr6 (Aug 24, 2017)

Pretty solid performance for 50 minutes or so. Not bad out of this little light. I do like the omission of a 1 or 3 minute turbo then stepdown. I just don't have enough self control to keep from using that all the time


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## Zak (Aug 24, 2017)

I'll be adding a lumen-hours feature at some point for people with calibrated setups. Maybe percent-hours for those without so you can convert based on published figures.

The second graph is about the behavior I expected: solid performance with about 50 minutes to 80%, but not flat. Few lights are flat in their highest mode.


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## jon_slider (Aug 24, 2017)

Swede74 said:


>


Well Done!
All your pics are very helpful. I especially appreciate the beam comparisons with daylight white balance (fluorescent I would skip in future)


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## Swede74 (Aug 24, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> Well Done!
> All your pics are very helpful. I especially appreciate the beam comparisons with daylight white balance (fluorescent I would skip in future)



Thank you for the kind words. Here is another one:


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## Swede74 (Aug 25, 2017)

Dio said:


> Hello all! Nice thread!!
> 
> I joined the forum here (been lurking a while) as I just got a SC53Fc and SC5W II the other day and wanted to add some thoughts and reflections on the two..
> 
> ...



Thank you for your input Dio, and :welcome: I almost wish that I too had requested a frosted a frosted lens for my SC5c as the tint variation across the beam profile is quite noticeable and a little bit distracting. Since I ordered from a dealer I did not have that option. 

Zebralight, if you are reading this; snap-on diffusers for all of your lights as an optional accessory would be much appreciated. 

One more runtime test (SC53w, 198 lm) added to the first post.


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## iamlucky13 (Aug 25, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> Of course, how could I forget? I knew there was something I was supposed to do...
> 
> SC53w to the left, SC5c II to the right. Both lights on max output. ISO 200, white balance set to "Daylight"



Thanks! I appreciate seeing the neutral white and high-CRI comparison.

Forgive my asking, but is it possible you mixed up the daylight and fluorescent balanced images? The images labeled as fluorescent are more like what I anticipated seeing for daylight balance, but that could just be my expectations being off-target.



Swede74 said:


> It fits all my pockets  Since I do not mind carrying something as big as a SC600 in my trouser pocket (I usually wear loose-fit clothes) I may not be the best person to ask about pocket fit.



Mainly I was curious if you think there is a significant different in how well the SC53 fits in the pocket compared to the SC5, or if the difference seems barely perceptible.



Swede74 said:


> I have access to a pair of low budget calipers but using them is not my forte. I am not exactly sure what you mean by the narrower side of the head - I assume you you mean the side that sort of tapers, where the switch is located. I have tried to take some measurements, I hope you will find what you are looking for somewhere in the following bunch of pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Excellent, Thanks! This one on the left is the measurement I was hoping you'd be able to do and you went even further. I wasn't sure which way Zebralight's spec was measured and how much narrower one side of the head was compared to the other.

Looks like (if I read the Vernier scale right):
SC53 Head - 25.15mm x 23.45mm (0.99" x 0.92")
SC5 Head - 26.30mm x 25.25mm (1.04" x 0.99")

SC53 Barrel - 18.1mm (0.71")
SC5 Barrel - 20.9mm (0.82")


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## Swede74 (Aug 26, 2017)

iamlucky13 said:


> Thanks! I appreciate seeing the neutral white and high-CRI comparison.
> 
> Forgive my asking, but is it possible you mixed up the daylight and fluorescent balanced images? The images labeled as fluorescent are more like what I anticipated seeing for daylight balance, but that could just be my expectations being off-target.



I was asking myself the same question, so I double-checked, and also took a few more beamshots plus control shots (actual daylight through window). Now I wonder if perhaps the camera app creator mislabelled the white balance settings...

























iamlucky13 said:


> Mainly I was curious if you think there is a significant different in how well the SC53 fits in the pocket compared to the SC5, or if the difference seems barely perceptible.


Let me put it this way: If I hold one light in each hand, the difference is easily discernible, and in my opinion more significant than the dimensions on paper suggest. However, while I can tell which light is in which pocket if I have the SC5c II in one pocket and the SC53w in the other; if I was blindfolded and someone put one of the lights in my pocket and asked me to guess which light, several times, I would probably be right 50% of the times. Maybe 60%. 

Bear in mind, this is coming from a guy who does not think this (+keys) is an overloaded keychain.


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## likethevegetable (Sep 1, 2017)

I'm curious to know how much heat the SC53c generates compared to the SC5w II. How hot does each one get at it's highest setting?

Ideally I'd be interested in seeing the heat on the same light with the "w" vs. "c" emitters - since the "c" is less efficient I'm wondering how much more heat it would generate.


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## jon_slider (Sep 2, 2017)

likethevegetable said:


> I'd be interested in seeing the heat on the same light with the "w" vs. "c" emitters



opinion (not my photos):
Since Zebras have built in thermal regulation, I don't expect you would see a temperature difference. Any efficiency difference would be in lumen hours (brightness x runtime)..

this photo shows a Zebra's heat at 30 seconds, 




and at 60 seconds: (the zebra is at 118F, iirc 140F is considered risk of scalding)
also, it is best to actually hold the light in hand, as that helps dissipate heat better than free standing...





my guess is other zebra models will use similar thermal regulation.. but what I could not find for you was a specific thermal scan for the models you are asking about. Maybe someone will find the info you seek.


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## tompen41 (Sep 9, 2017)

By the way the SC32W is available on Zebralights site again. I have one shipped yesterday.


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Sep 12, 2017)

I have the SC5w and a couple of SC52's. I see the SC53 as a bit of a step backwards from the SC52, since it no longer supports 14500 cells. While I prefer the SC5 for its high output on a AA cell, I still like my smaller SC52's for the same high output on a 14500 cell. The SC52 is only a minute at max output, but that's usually long enough. I wonder why Zebralight dropped the 14500 support?


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## vadimax (Sep 12, 2017)

WalkIntoTheLight said:


> I have the SC5w and a couple of SC52's. I see the SC53 as a bit of a step backwards from the SC52, since it no longer supports 14500 cells. While I prefer the SC5 for its high output on a AA cell, I still like my smaller SC52's for the same high output on a 14500 cell. The SC52 is only a minute at max output, but that's usually long enough. I wonder why Zebralight dropped the 14500 support?



Perhaps, decided they can easily overheat a light with AA only


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Sep 13, 2017)

vadimax said:


> Perhaps, decided they can easily overheat a light with AA only



That's certainly true for the SC5. I don't have an SC53, but if it's anything like the SC52 on a AA, then it doesn't really get that hot.

Maybe Zebralight wanted to completely separate their AA and lithium-ion lines of flashlights, so they dropped the 14500 support. Pity, because the SC52 was a nice cross-over, and handy that it accepted any chemistry you could throw at it.

The SC53 doesn't look very appealing to me, considering the advantages the SC5 has over it. I think if Zebralight wants a small NiMH light, they should consider making a 1xAAA sized light. That might be really nice for EDC.


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## markr6 (Sep 13, 2017)

The SC52w was just a great size. Every little bit helps. It's amazing how much bigger the SC5w feels every time I pick it up. Since the SC53w is even smaller, I may just get one and "deal" with the lower output.


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Sep 13, 2017)

markr6 said:


> The SC52w was just a great size. Every little bit helps. It's amazing how much bigger the SC5w feels every time I pick it up. Since the SC53w is even smaller, I may just get one and "deal" with the lower output.



Yes, I like the SC5w for it's high output on AA, but it is quite a bit beefier than the SC52w. It looks like they didn't have to make it that big (especially the battery section), unless they were just adding thermal mass for running longer on max.

I don't know why they couldn't give the SC53 the same high output, and just a shorter step-down interval (like the SC52 on a 14500 does).

Outside in winter, you can run a small light at 500+ lumens constantly, and the thing will never even get warm!


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## Tixx (Sep 14, 2017)

markr6 said:


> The SC52w was just a great size. Every little bit helps. It's amazing how much bigger the SC5w feels every time I pick it up. Since the SC53w is even smaller, I may just get one and "deal" with the lower output.


Been thinking the same thing


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## Keitho (Sep 15, 2017)

I'm happy with the output of my SC53c, less than 300 lumens, but great tint/color/CRI. Any more power, and the poor little AA would be drained too quick for me. If I want tactical or searchlight brightness, any AA light will just be used to find one of my 18650s!


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## ven (Sep 15, 2017)

300lm is enough for pretty much 99% of my uses, I think the figure(output) does not sit right compared to the 1000lm crowd. Other than that, the little sc62d gets used the most of my ZL's which kicks out 320lm. Even then, I use the H2 of 145lm most of the time. 

To put 300lm into perspective, HDS offers around this output and it's a sort after light. In fact some HDS lights are 1/2 that output and more than adequate for many. Not too long back the 60lm surefire was king.......(yes even that incand 60lm is adequate when used by me, if anything a little too bright/intense hot spot for some uses.)

Along with output/colour temp and UI, form factor is very important . After all too big/small and it gets left behind. The sc5c mkII of mine hardly ever gets used on full output. My one mode click(h1) is set considerably less at probably a 1/3. This makes a useful do it all level for me . It's certainly a chunk for an AA light! All helps with heat though....


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## Swedpat (Sep 15, 2017)

Keitho said:


> _I'm happy with the output of my SC53c, less than 300 lumens, but great tint/color/CRI. Any more power, and the poor little AA would be drained too quick for me. If I want tactical or searchlight brightness, any AA light will just be used to find one of my 18650s!_



*I really like my SC53c. Significantly dimmer than SC5w and dimmer than SC52w as well. But the tint is very pleasant, warm and providing a bit incandescent feeling in my eyes.*



ven said:


> _300lm is enough for pretty much 99% of my uses, I think the figure(output) does not sit right compared to the 1000lm crowd. Other than that, the little sc62d gets used the most of my ZL's which kicks out 320lm. Even then, I use the H2 of 145lm most of the time_.



*I find the lowest H level to be good for many purposes.*



> To put 300lm into perspective, HDS offers around this output and it's a sort after light. In fact some HDS lights are 1/2 that output and more than adequate for many. Not too long back the 60lm surefire was king.......(yes even that incand 60lm is adequate when used by me, if anything a little too bright/intense hot spot for some uses.)



*I remember in the beginning of my flashoholic life when I thought Maglite 6D was the output king. And still this beast was dimmer than a 25w home light bulb. Then I remember when it was a sensation that a portable flashlight smaller than 2D pushed out an output similar to a 40w home light bulb. Now a Mini Maglite sized flashlight rivals a 75w home light bulb and that for an hour or so.*
*I am in the age that raised up with incandescents and therefore I still have the incandescent bulb as a kind of reference in my mind. But all my indoors light bulbs are now replaced with LEDs. *


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## ven (Sep 15, 2017)

It is impressive how far we have come, even now thinking 300lm is not adequate. We are spoilt


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## radellaf (Dec 17, 2017)

I'm considering the 53c as an upgrade to a 52 and 52d. The problem I have with the 52 is that the contacts shred the top and especially bottom of batteries. This was mostly a problem for the 14500 that the 53 doesn't take, but I didn't really enjoy having my NiMH contacts gouged. I see the 53 keeps a spring for the tailcap, but does the bigger spring do less damage? Part of the problem with the 52 was that the gold plating would wear off at the contact points so you'd get this abrasive edge of steel wire and edge-of-plating that would shred the negative end even more than when the light was new. So maybe the 53 uses better wire.

What's the positive contact in the SC53 look like?

In case you think I'm exaggerating what the SC52 does to an eneloop, here's a photo. It's worse, and more concerning, on less robust NiMH cells. Much less unprotected 14500s. I taped some brass sheet stock to the end of my 14500s as a disposable protector.






edit: asking ZL support for an official answer. I'm guessing I'll have to go with the SC64 if I want another "c" ZL but who knows. They _did_ know about this problem, and the SC5 tailcap was supposed to be the solution.


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## ven (Dec 17, 2017)

The sc53w i have looks a little strange or not what i am use to in a + contact anyway,





The tail cap spring is not too stiff, moderate maybe at best . No issue with my loops so far


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## radellaf (Dec 20, 2017)

The Apple "]["positive contacts. Thanks, that was the one thing ZL wouldn't tell me in their (perhaps understandably, but still annoying) terse replies. I just ordered one SC53c. Maybe it'll behave, but even if it does chew on my battery contacts like the SC52, I have mitigations.

I am rather disappointed that all the seeming (internal, mechanical) design improvements went into the SC5. The SC51, IMHO, was the best contact-wise, but they said there were problems.

I'll second two sentiments in this thread: the SC52/53 spoils me for what size an AA light should be, and 200-300lm is fine for the bedside and 'round the house, since there are so many choices (half ZL) of larger 18650 lights nearby if I need more lumens.

Here's a photo of my solutions to the contact issues, having bought some copper and borrowed some brass shim stock. If I soldered the .5mm hammered dome onto that spring the solution would be permanent, and I could use thinner copper. The foil tape is, I think, .1mm, as is the brass on the 14500. Why they can't put something on the spring at the factory, IDK, but with unprotected 14500s out of the picture for the SC53, much less of an issue. NiMH are tougher. Or maybe the minor spring change is enough. Something about the one in the 52 was oddly brutal considering the wire is thick and the clipped off bit is _not_ sticking up. I do kinda wonder what would let go if the battery did get punched through. Would the rubber button vent the gas, or would the tailcap rocket off? I think the battery compartment is sealed by the potted driver, but who knows what enough pressure would do.








> I remember in the beginning of my flashoholic life when I thought Maglite 6D was the output king. And still this beast was dimmer than a 25w home light bulb.



However it was a very well focused ~150 lumens. Even the MiniMag was held up to early 1W LEDs with 3-5x the lumens if you looked at the hotspot. 'round the house, lumens is more important, but then I never carried a 6D Mag around the house. I did, for a few months, carry a 3D around the college campus. Why? IDK. I was a flashlight geek in 1995 and choices were few. These days campus security would probably not allow it, but like you said, the mini-mag size ZLs put out 75W incandescent, so, ain't LEDs cool.


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## radellaf (Dec 27, 2017)

ven said:


> My sc5c mkII XP-L2 easywhite 4000k hi cri is different to the above pics. It is yellow , quite a bit more yellow from the several 219c 4000k nichia.... The 219c 4000k is towards yellow, but nowhere like this XP-L2..............it is yellow. Once i got used to it , its not as bad as i 1st thought. Just not ideal to compare with other "tints" as it makes it worse still. However yellow apart! it does make colours look great...I can cope and do enjoy it when used, but i wont be getting another xp-l2 easywhite unless guaranteed...less yellow.



Just got in a SC53c and have to say I've got a similar experience. It's not quite the old Luxeon I "puke green," but it does bring back those memories. The hotspot seems great, but that corona is very yellow and maybe a bit green. Outdoors, or at over 10' distances, it blends pretty well, but I got this for mostly short range use. Here's a comparison with my worst (for ugly corona) other decent flashlight, a SC600w with the early XM-L yellow coronas. Camera is a RX100 set to 4000K WB, so you can see, if the camera is calibrated, the XM-L is cooler (4200K spec) and the XP-L is on target for CCT but bad enough on tint I'm having thoughts of a return. Probably not, but all the ZLs after that SC600w have been so nice and pure white, over a range of CCTs. This ain't. 

edit: the camera has a A-B (cyan-orange) G-M (green-magenta) color balance setting (auto or manual) and the hotspot and spill measure A-B:0 G-M: M1 (so the LED is a step Green, the camera adjusts a step Magenta). The corona gets M2. So yeah, it's a bit green. Compensating for yellow would be more like B1 M1 or B2 M2. However A-B:0 means it's not yellow-green, just green, and not by much. It only looks yellow-green in most light because 4000K is yellow compared to cooler color temperatures. The SC600 measures 4200K A-B:0 G-M: M2 in both hotspot and corona, and G1 in the spill.






The main thing making me think it's OK to keep is that it really does look fine on anything but a wall or ceiling. The yellow tint reflected from a ceiling bounce isn't a problem either - it looks yellow, not puke green.


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## ven (Dec 27, 2017)

If you can, i would just use the sc53c on its own as much as possible for a few days. Trying to limit other types of light pollution (be it house lighting or other different CT's). See how you get on, i go through stages of love/hate being honest. 

General comments........
I see all kinds of fugly(white wall ) on various lights, heck you want to see what a quad mule up close does!!! But other than being a quick check for beams, white wall hunting should be banned :laughing: I still do it though, its kind of a check i do but i also know in real world use, it serves no actual use. So for me, a light that may get used for reading at night, or working under the hood.............walking the dog. Until those specific uses have been tested out, i dont rule a light out straight off(me this, not aimed at anyone as a general comment). My xp-l2 is very yellow, but at times i have used it and it does not look to bad(yellow ). I think my sweet spot for the xp-l2 LED is 4500k(like in the sc53w). Not as hi cri, but who cares(i dont) if the tint or beam is not fugly. It falls real easy on my eyes and enjoy it more. My sc63w is 4500k xhp35 and this i really enjoy, 80+ cri and again i dont care as the beam, colours are fantastic to my eyes. Just because a few colours dont "pop" as much..............i dont care. I want real like colours anyway, not too exaggerated. 

I enjoy my PrinceCvn triple xpl HI 4000k more than most, the beam, colour temp and hint of warmth is just amazing. So hi cri, or latest LED comes 2nd to my wants in a beam, has to be nice on the eye for the application at hand.


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## jon_slider (Dec 27, 2017)

radellaf said:


> Just got in a SC53c and have to say I've got a similar experience. It's not quite the old Luxeon I "puke green," but it does bring back those memories. ...



Lee minus green filters can help a lot... if you are ok with some brightness reduction
http://shop.leefiltersusa.com/Swatch-Book-Designers-Edition-SWB.htm


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## radellaf (Dec 27, 2017)

ven said:


> If you can, i would just use the sc53c on its own as much as possible for a few days. Trying to limit other types of light pollution (be it house lighting or other different CT's). See how you get on, i go through stages of love/hate being honest.



Yeah, that's the plan. I don't really mind it being a bit yellow, given that I've been in a low CCT incandescent-look mood recently. It's the bare hit of green that I need to come to terms with, or not.
I did sorta want it for writing with colored inks in the dark, which involves pointing it at a white notepad.

I guess a question for you guys, since I don't see a solid SC53 review out there, is how much of a yellow corona are ALL these XP-L2 LEDs going to have?
And, to keep with the topic, is the SC5c any different, given that the reflector is (I think) a bit larger?

Even if I got a tint with no green, it's not going to be even tint across like the Lux T or Nichia, right? Is the corona worse than the XM-L2? I have an SC62w with a beautiful pure tint and just the slightest yellow in the corona. Was kinda hoping for that with this, 500K warmer and high CRI. edit: took a matching photo with it and, well, doesn't look snow white here.

Notepad photo (SC53c left two, SC62w right):


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## gurdygurds (Dec 27, 2017)

The tint on mine is basically just like yours radellaf. Doesn’t bug me too much in normal use but the 4000k Malkoff MDC has a much better tint in my opinion. Can anyone comment on the durability of these small AA ZEBRAS like the SC5/SC5,SC53? They feel solid and I’m praying that can stand up to some drops and rough use but there’s so much techy stuff going on in there I’m not sure. I’m coming from the land of E01s and Malkoffs so I’m used to not being worried at all if my lights take a spill onto the concrete or tile floor.


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## Tachead (Dec 27, 2017)

gurdygurds said:


> The tint on mine is basically just like yours radellaf. Doesn’t bug me too much in normal use but the 4000k Malkoff MDC has a much better tint in my opinion. Can anyone comment on the durability of these small AA ZEBRAS like the SC5/SC5,SC53? They feel solid and I’m praying that can stand up to some drops and rough use but there’s so much techy stuff going on in there I’m not sure. I’m coming from the land of E01s and Malkoffs so I’m used to not being worried at all if my lights take a spill onto the concrete or tile floor.


I wouldn't worry gurdy. ZL's are fully potted and they use a single MCPCB for all components including the emitter and switch. They also use no wiring at all to further increase durability and eliminate points of failure. At worst you could shatter or crack a lens but, ZL will ship you a new one or change it for a small fee($15) if you don't want to attempt it yourself. I have read a few reports of people dropping them on ceramic tile and concrete and at most they just got a small ding in the anodizing.


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## ven (Dec 28, 2017)

I know its hard to tell on monitors radellaf, but great pics and from what i see i would be happy!! Whites on the left 2(xp-l2) dont look tainted and look clean. The w on the far right has a look of creamy, I also like this in a beam. A lot depends on the use for me, if i worked in paper mill then it would have to be as clean as possible(example). 

I have only dropped my sc62d a few times onto hard floors gurdy, hardly a mark was found. Would not mind, but one of the times i dropped it, i was admiring the body/ano...........:ironic:
As Tac described, add to that a pretty light weight construction....................i have as much confidence in these ZL's as i do any of my lights(more so than some). HDS are tough, they fall like a brick, maybe ZL are not as thick walled and tank like(wonder how many zebralights= a HDS in weight), the zebralights waft to the floor like a feather


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Dec 28, 2017)

Tachead said:


> I wouldn't worry gurdy. ZL's are fully potted and they use a single MCPCB for all components including the emitter and switch. They also use no wiring at all to further increase durability and eliminate points of failure. At worst you could shatter or crack a lens but, ZL will ship you a new one or change it for a small fee($15) if you don't want to attempt it yourself. I have read a few reports of people dropping them on ceramic tile and concrete and at most they just got a small ding in the anodizing.



Yes, I've dropped my SC5w a couple of times on concrete from 1m or 2m. There's a small nik in the anodizing, but no other damage. I've dropped it dozens of times on other surfaces (less hard than concrete), and no problems there.


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## gurdygurds (Dec 28, 2017)

Thanks gentlemen. Good to know that long time users have confidence in their durability. Really enjoying this little light and has me wishing every maker would use these super low lows. 0.01 for the win.


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## Tachead (Dec 28, 2017)

gurdygurds said:


> Thanks gentlemen. Good to know that long time users have confidence in their durability. Really enjoying this little light and has me wishing every maker would use these super low lows. 0.01 for the win.


Yep, got to love the extreme lows. Unfortunately some of their newer models are starting to use a bit higher lows. Hopefully they go back to the 0.01 lowest low for all models. I find them great for the middle of the night with fully dark adapted eyes.


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## gurdygurds (Dec 28, 2017)

Crazy thing about the 0.01 is that I can leave it on all night, doesn't bother me or keep me awake at all, but then when I wake up and need to hit the head or check on the dog it's enough light. It's wonderful I tells ya!! Plus its fun to turn on and just stare straight into the led.


Tachead said:


> Yep, got to love the extreme lows. Unfortunately some of their newer models are starting to use a bit higher lows. Hopefully they go back to the 0.01 lowest low for all models. I find them great for the middle of the night with fully dark adapted eyes.


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## radellaf (Dec 28, 2017)

gurdygurds said:


> The tint on mine is basically just like yours radellaf. Doesn’t bug me too much in normal use but the 4000k Malkoff MDC has a much better tint in my opinion.



Yeah, but that's 4.5 inches long vs 3.1 and over $100 with only about 100lm. The tint off my L10 Nichia from L3 Illumination is perfect and it's 1/4 the price and just about as short as the ZL. I also have the Jaxman E2 for a perfect beam. Looks like Cree is still miles behind Nichia (or even the Luxeon T) on beam quality. Not that flashlights probably figure in much with their research.

The SC53c bugs me the moment I shine it on a white flat surface. In _every_ other situation, I love it.



ven said:


> A lot depends on the use for me, if i worked in paper mill then it would have to be as clean as possible(example).



I was hoping for it to be clean (no tint shift in corona) for both photography and use of colored fountain pen inks. It's not, unless I can put the subject in the hotspot. So, in that way I'm disappointed. Still not entirely sure if I should limit the disappointment to this particular light, or XP-L2 LEDs in general. The paper photos are odd in that the SC53 looks really un-tinted. Really, I don't have any Cree LED lights (well maybe an XP-G one) that are good for photography.

Given that I have several really good lights, and I'm a hobbyist/collector, it's cool just to have a new light with a new LED type. That's the fascination, and if it is flawed and yellow in a way none of my other lights are, but not so badly that I don't enjoy using it, then in a way, all the better.



Tacman said:


> got to love the extreme lows. Unfortunately some of their newer models are starting to use a bit higher lows. Hopefully they go back to the 0.01 lowest low for all models.



SC 5c: L1 2.8 Lm (4.2 days) or L2 1.0 Lm (14 days) / 0.28 Lm (50 days) / 0.08 Lm (4.3 months)
SC53c: L1 1.0 Lm (13 days) or L2 0.26 Lm (1.1 month) / 0.06 Lm (2.2 months) / 0.01 Lm (3.3 months)
SC64c: L1 2.1 Lm () or L2 0.67 Lm ()/0.19 Lm ()/0.05 Lm ()
600Fc: L1 4.0 Lm () or L2 1.4 Lm ()/0.5 Lm ()/0.15 Lm ()

I usually use the 0.06 on my SC52 and 53 as a nightlight, so don't mind if that's the low, but do hope .15 doesn't become more common. The older SC600 (Mk I) had a .09 low, which was getting a bit bright on the darkest nights. The new 1 or 2 Lm lows I totally disapprove of. Around 3 is much more sensible. It's a useful walking-around dark-adapted light level. However, since all the lights that have that preset also have the new UI, doesn't really matter.

I'll conclude with a photo of the SC53c's high CRI looking at a spectrum of ink swatches vs a (I think the SC62) "w" Zebralight. Well, a printed digital image. The real inks might show metamerism that the print won't. I guess the reds are better with the high CRI.


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## pantagana23 (Jan 5, 2018)

What is the curent draw on H1 for both SC5 and SC53? I'm thinking of getting of those two, but as my flashlights mostly sit in my bag, I would like to use Energizer lithtium primaries. Energizer states 2.5A continuous draw, and 4A impulse draw.

I've contacted Zebralight on this matter, and their oppinion was that there would be no difference on the output when using lithium primary, which draws me more to SC53w. 

Any of you with current draw tests on this?


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## pantagana23 (Jan 5, 2018)

What is the curent draw on H1 for both SC5 and SC53? I'm thinking of getting of those two, but as my flashlights mostly sit in my bag, I would like to use Energizer lithtium primaries. Energizer states 2.5A continuous draw, and 4A impulse draw.

I've contacted Zebralight on this matter, and their oppinion was that there would be no difference on the output when using lithium primary, which draws me more to SC53w. 

Any of you with current draw tests on this?


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Jan 5, 2018)

pantagana23 said:


> What is the curent draw on H1 for both SC5 and SC53? I'm thinking of getting of those two, but as my flashlights mostly sit in my bag, I would like to use Energizer lithtium primaries. Energizer states 2.5A continuous draw, and 4A impulse draw.
> 
> I've contacted Zebralight on this matter, and their oppinion was that there would be no difference on the output when using lithium primary, which draws me more to SC53w.
> 
> Any of you with current draw tests on this?




IIRC, I think I tested about 5 amps on my SC5w. So, I'm not sure if an Energizer Lithium would be able to produce max output for long. You've got a better shot at it with the SC53w, since it has lower maximum output.

But why not use Eneloops? That's what they're designed for. Eneloops will keep their charge for years.


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## pantagana23 (Jan 6, 2018)

WalkIntoTheLight said:


> IIRC, I think I tested about 5 amps on my SC5w. So, I'm not sure if an Energizer Lithium would be able to produce max output for long. You've got a better shot at it with the SC53w, since it has lower maximum output.
> 
> But why not use Eneloops? That's what they're designed for. Eneloops will keep their charge for years.



That was my initial thought, E Pro and SC5w II. But not sure how Eneloops hold up in low temperatures. As the light usually stays in my bag, and is needed after let's say half a year, wouldn't appreciate to find it close to dead.


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Jan 6, 2018)

pantagana23 said:


> That was my initial thought, E Pro and SC5w II. But not sure how Eneloops hold up in low temperatures. As the light usually stays in my bag, and is needed after let's say half a year, wouldn't appreciate to find it close to dead.



I've used my SC5w in temperatures below -20C (on Eneloops), and it works fine. Probably with a much shorter run-time, but it works.


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## pantagana23 (Jan 7, 2018)

WalkIntoTheLight said:


> I've used my SC5w in temperatures below -20C (on Eneloops), and it works fine. Probably with a much shorter run-time, but it works.



And now for the magical question - how much do the pins tear the +/- terminals on the Eneloop? From what I've seen in this thread, and in some others, looks like both pins and springs make a plastic deformation of the battery itself. IMO, E Pro is a better option, as with both these flashlights will eat batteries before 500th recharge.


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Jan 7, 2018)

pantagana23 said:


> And now for the magical question - how much do the pins tear the +/- terminals on the Eneloop? From what I've seen in this thread, and in some others, looks like both pins and springs make a plastic deformation of the battery itself. IMO, E Pro is a better option, as with both these flashlights will eat batteries before 500th recharge.



I use regular 1900mAh Eneloops in mine, and haven't noticed any problems with dents or tears. However, I doubt I've used the same battery in mine more than 50 times (I rotate cells in use).

I have dropped it onto concrete, and saw no problems with the battery. (It did nick the bezel.)


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## pantagana23 (Jan 18, 2018)

While I was thinking between the 53w and 5w, looks like my wife beat me to it


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## Mattz68 (Jan 18, 2018)

Nice wife! And a sweet looking flashlight. The SC 5’s may be a little bigger than other 1aa flashlights, but I always liked the beam pattern and way it feels in the hand. She made a good choice!


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## gurdygurds (Mar 11, 2018)

I had tried the Sc53c more than once and loved everything about it other than the overly yellow tint which started to bug me. This time went with the SC53w and I love it. The tint isn’t perfect but much less distracting than the c version. For around the house everyday use, I’m becoming convinced that these little AA Zebras are king.


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## gurdygurds (Mar 11, 2018)

And some photos. I don't like the black clip so I always mess with them. 


Untitled by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr

Untitled by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr

Untitled by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr


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## 18650 (Mar 11, 2018)

gurdygurds said:


> I had tried the Sc53c more than once and loved everything about it other than the overly yellow tint which started to bug me. This time went with the SC53w and I love it. The tint isn’t perfect but much less distracting than the c version. For around the house everyday use, I’m becoming convinced that these little AA Zebras are king.


 Exactly my problem with the way ZL has structured their lineup as a hodgepodge of color temperatures. They have 4000K, 5000K, and 5700K with a terrible in-between 4500K in some of the lines that is supposed to satisfy anyone looking for 4000K or 5000K. IMO they really need to go with 4000K as their warm, 5000K as their neutral, and 5700K as their cool with HI, normal, floody as sub options.


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## JayHawk (Mar 12, 2018)

I quite like the 4500k tint and would hate to see it go away.


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Mar 15, 2018)

18650 said:


> Exactly my problem with the way ZL has structured their lineup as a hodgepodge of color temperatures. They have 4000K, 5000K, and 5700K with a terrible in-between 4500K in some of the lines that is supposed to satisfy anyone looking for 4000K or 5000K. IMO they really need to go with 4000K as their warm, 5000K as their neutral, and 5700K as their cool with HI, normal, floody as sub options.



Good point. I much prefer the ZL ~4000K temperature to their ~4500K temperature. I have no idea why they use different tints in their "w" versions, but they should stick with the warm ones.


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## SKV89 (Mar 15, 2018)

For alot of people 4500k is the ideal neutral temperature. The 4000k SC5c II that I got from Zebralight had horribly ugly green tint. The SC5w II 4500k had far better looking tint. However the XPL2 still had noticeable tint shift and slight hint of green in the corona. 4500k is not a bad color temperature if the tint is close to the BBL line. 5000k is far too cool for me and 4000k may present a hint of warmth that some NW lovers would prefer not to have.


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## 18650 (Mar 16, 2018)

SKV89 said:


> For alot of people 4500k is the ideal neutral temperature. The 4000k SC5c II that I got from Zebralight had horribly ugly green tint. The SC5w II 4500k had far better looking tint. However the XPL2 still had noticeable tint shift and slight hint of green in the corona. 4500k is not a bad color temperature if the tint is close to the BBL line. 5000k is far too cool for me and 4000k may present a hint of warmth that some NW lovers would prefer not to have.


 The problem I find is 4500K looks very off if used during the day and at the same time household lighting generally does not come in 4500K (usually 4000K or 5000K are the two options immediately around it) so it looks a little off when used indoors too.


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## SKV89 (Mar 27, 2018)

Not sure why you would use a flashlight in the day time or when there is already household lighting. If you turn off the lights and use an SC5W II, you will see very pleasant neutral lighting.


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Mar 27, 2018)

SKV89 said:


> Not sure why you would use a flashlight in the day time or when there is already household lighting.



Well, there are plenty of reasons to use a flashlight in the daytime or a lit room, if you're looking for something under a chair or desk where it's dark. Also, outside in the day if you're trying to see under a house eaves or something like that. But, yeah, for general lighting, probably not much use.


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## gurdygurds (Mar 27, 2018)

To get back to these lights, The little SC53w I’ve been using has been a flashlight revelation. It’s configurable UI and direct access to basically whatever output you like makes its the most usable light I’ve ever had and really the ONLY light I need. Yes even my beloved E01s have been put away for the time being and the Malkoffs have been sold off. The tint isn’t perfect but it’s good enough, and I love the beam pattern. Great light. Glad I finally tried a Zebralight.


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## marinemaster (Mar 27, 2018)

Awesome [emoji106]


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## radellaf (Aug 6, 2018)

Just thought a ~1 year later update on what a SC53 does to a duraloop could be useful. 

Negative is pretty gouged, but I'm not sure this is really getting deeper, or not as fast as I expected. The first few times it really marks its territory, though. If you care what your battery terminals look like. Despite having more than plenty of batteries to dedicate to abusive flashlights. I'm definitely still not comfortable using 14500s in the SC52 without something like the brass sheet, but not worrying about Eneloops. I have a lot of Chinese NiMH that I figure have less robust steel, if the cheap screwdriver bits are any indication, but I don't use those in Zebralights.







Positive:


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