# Coleman Cree XR-E headlight



## Hooked on Fenix (Jul 3, 2008)

*105 lumen 3AAA Coleman Cree XR-E headlight*

I just bought a Coleman Max 3AAA l.e.d. headlamp from Walmart in Poway, CA for $25. The light has a Cree XR-E l.e.d. and claims 105 lumens on high. I think this is the first Cree headlight at a brick and mortar store with more than one level. It claims 6 hours on high, 20 hours on low, and 25 on the two red l.e.d.s. The two point bracket (pivot point) seems strong and does a good job of keeping the light from moving up or down on it's own. The low level seems to be about 20 lumens by my guess. Settings are adjusted by turning a dial on the right side of the bracket. It is set up pretty well. Turn it one click back towards you for red l.e.d.s to preserve night vision without going through brighter settings. Turn it away from you one click for high (when you need high, you need it to come on first), and two clicks forward for low. This U.I. should actually work best for most people. The Cree l.e.d. puts out a wide floody beam with a decent sized hotspot. There are no donut holes in the beam, though there is one or two rings if you go white wall hunting at close range. The reflector is textured with a small smooth ring directly around the l.e.d. (probably gives it better throw). I doubt the light is regulated since there's a large resistor in the battery compartment. Light doesn't seem to be waterproof (nor does it claim to be). I found out that a Jakstrap is the perfect size to replace the current headband strap (not that there's anything wrong with the one supplied). I just found it useful to be able to attach on a backup light like a Fenix P2D or P3D in case the headlight fails or the batteries die. I think this light is a step forward from the River Rock Cree headlight since it has more than one level and uses normal batteries. Next steps toward a better headlight will be making one that is waterproof with current based regulation. I bought this light because my PT Quad headlights were cracking and wearing out and I needed a replacement. I couldn't wait for Princeton Tec to update the EOS and Quad. However, if they do update, I might have to buy a new headlight (if something better doesn't come along first).


----------



## 12Johnny (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

Thanks for the review!


----------



## Sarratt (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

Is it this one ?

http://www.coleman.com/coleman/colemancom/detail.asp?product_id=4343-704&categoryid=1116

This says 55 lumens though


----------



## Hooked on Fenix (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

It's sort of the same light as in that link, except the one I got is 105 lumens and has a Cree XR-E l.e.d.. The one in the link has an XR-C. Other than that, it's the same light. I think the runtimes are the same as the one in the link too, just about twice as bright/efficient.


----------



## VegasF6 (Jul 4, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

Yay, I finaly found a light mentioned here in my local store. I swear the Walmart's and Target's here never have anything. They had 2 of these in stock, I took one. The other one looked very off center, but was probably just a matter of taking it apart and putting it back together. They also had the Coleman max 3aaa handheld that claimed 135 lumens.

Now, to just find the little AAA dorcy with a nichia.


----------



## BlackDecker (Jul 4, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

Nice looking light... Looks like the design the Rayovac Sportsman Extreme should have been.

Too bad it didn't come with 1AA instead of 3AAA's.


----------



## cave dave (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

I don't know why I succumbed and bought one of these things.  I could buy some serious lights with all the money I've spent on cheapies.  And I promised myself I'd never buy anther multi AAA light again. But I had just hit Circuit City and am flush with AAA eneloops from the closeout.

Anyway I haven't taken it fully apart yet, but there is no attempt at waterprofing at all. Thats OK because there is no circuit to short circuit. Just rinse with clean water shake it out and set it in the sun to dry. 

No where near 105 lumens on Nimh. It is just a tad bit brighter on max than my SSCP4 mod EOS. The beam is pretty good. Very wide spill which is what you want in a headlamp. my guess is around 60 Lm on Nimh. Since it is direct drive it will be more on Alkalines but the output will drop faster.

This will be gifted to a friend. It will be much better than her old halogen PT solo.


----------



## VegasF6 (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

The only headlight I have to compare this too is my streamlight enduro, I must say it soundly kicks it's butt. Have only run it on primaries so far. 

The swivel mechanism is pretty cool too. I don't really like the battery case. The batteries were extremely tight with the included Duracells. Also, I worry for the plastic clip that keeps the door on. So, for durability, I think I can only give it a 5, but for light output, at least a 7!

The red 5mm leds surprised me with there brightness as well, indoors at least, but the focus on them is a little funny. Either one is higher than the other, or my head is crooked 

HookedonFenix, still liking yours?


----------



## Hooked on Fenix (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

Yes, I still like mine. By the way, your head isn't crooked. The red l.e.d.s in mine have hotspots one on top of the other, which seems strange since the beams should be side by side. I tried mine out on a overnight backpacking trip up Mt. San Jacinto last weekend. I wish it had a third lower setting. I tried seeing my freeze dried dinner at night with it. The white low was too bright for this task and the red l.e.d.s didn't make my dinner look very good. I had fun putting my Fenix P3D Q5 in the Jakstrap headband and turning both lights on their highest settings. It's nice having a 320 lumen headlight. I wish I had more time to use the lights on the trip, but that hike wore me out and I went to bed at 9:30 p.m. I took Marion Mountain Trail, the steepest, fastest route up Mt. San Jacinto. 6 miles each way, 4800 ft. elevation gain, with a 27 lb. pack. No water available until you're half way up the mountain. My legs are still sore, but it was worth the awesome views and I like a challenge.


----------



## hopkins (Jul 10, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

sounds like a great hike Hooked! 
Now with the advent of led headlamps I look forward to the sun going down
so I can start using them.


----------



## DaveG (Jul 11, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

Took mine back it had a greenish tint that I dont like,the store had no headlights so I picked up the 2-aa Coleman Cree that so far seems good,nice white beam and well made for the price.


----------



## Jaygnar (Jul 13, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

Does anybody have the model number of this light?
Please post if so. 
Thanks.


----------



## VegasF6 (Jul 13, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

This is one of the times I chose to throw out the packaging, darn it, and I can't find a model # on it anywhere. But, it says Coleman Max Led Performance, and it looks just like the XR-C model found here: http://www.coleman.com/coleman/colemancom/detail.asp?product_id=4343-704&categoryid=1116

I am 99% sure it said XR-E on the packaging though, just like the 2AA handheld did as well, and it should be like 24.99


----------



## mattchase (Jul 13, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

The model number is 2000001571.


----------



## Jaygnar (Jul 13, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

thank you!


----------



## VegasF6 (Jul 20, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

Hmm, went to use this headlamp a little while ago to install a hard drive, and the batteries are dead. I don't think I have over 20 minutes use on these. This could be a problem. I am not in love with the switch, and I can only guess for some reason it wasn't positively off, and drained the batteries. No light was on though, so I don't really understand how that happened. 

Would like to hear from other users what there experience has been with leaving the batteries in it. They have only been in it for 10 days.


----------



## hopkins (Jul 20, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

Hi Vegasf6 -dead batteries!! 
OK, you can guess the first thing any CPF'er does is measure the batteries with a DVM to see if they are really dead?
If you don't have a multi-meter put them in another device to test their 'deadness'.

Does the switch have a positive feel/click or is it sloppy? 
-hopkins


----------



## VegasF6 (Jul 20, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

Between .32 and .35 volts apiece. 

The switch has some feedback, but not a lot. The switch mechanism is also part of the pressure mounting system, so there is some friction against it, then each of the 4 stops is more like a "slope" than a positive click. The "resistance" or feedback you feel lessens at any of the positions but is easy to go past. There is a small philips screw that holds the switch cover on, I just backed it out a little, might feel a tad better. 

Even at less than 1 volt total I still got the slightest light from the 2 red side leds, but of course it wouldn't light the Cree. I just stuck some standard nimh cells in there that I had to charge up first. I was too lazy to set up the quick charger, so it took about 2 hours to get those ready. My eneloops are in something else and I didn't feel like finding them either 

So, the trusty Streamlight Enduro to the rescue again. I have to say considering I have had that light for 3 or 4 years, it is still a quality piece for an antique.


----------



## hopkins (Jul 20, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

So from the evidence there must be a high resistance path somewhere in the light. Did some assembler at the factory spill some salty soup on it or what?

I'd be pretty mad and probably just remove the batteries, then pour some 100% (91% ok) 
iso alcohol into it and shake awhile. Like making a martini! Let dry

A less radical option would be to take it apart for swabbing all surfaces
and inspecting for any untrimmed wires causing shorts.


----------



## Jaygnar (Jul 20, 2008)

You could just exchange it for a new one.


----------



## VegasF6 (Jul 20, 2008)

I will have to consider both those options 
Taking it back makes more sense, but taking it apart sounds like more fun! Just wanted to see if anyone else had a similar problem.


----------



## mattchase (Jul 20, 2008)

I haven't had / used mine enough to say if the batteries are draining. It has had the same set of batteries in it for about 4 days straight with only about 15 minutes of use on this set. I will let it sit for another week and then check it to see if the batteries get drained in mine.

As for the switch feeling, I think you nailed it. There is definitely a feeling when you switch modes but it isn't a firm click.


----------



## Garand (Jul 25, 2008)

This light has ONE serious design flaw that has to be fixed before it can be relied on for hard use in the field.

Drop it on the floor and you will immediately see the flaw.


----------



## Dogmeat (Jul 26, 2008)

Garand said:


> This light has ONE serious design flaw that has to be fixed before it can be relied on for hard use in the field.
> 
> Drop it on the floor and you will immediately see the flaw.


 
OK for those of us thinking about buying one, can you tell us the secret?


----------



## Jaygnar (Jul 26, 2008)

Dogmeat said:


> OK for those of us thinking about buying one, can you tell us the secret?



I'm gonna go out in a limb here and guess that the flaw is that the light breaks and you have to replace it.
Am I close?:thinking:


----------



## VegasF6 (Jul 26, 2008)

I am not sure what Garand is getting at, but the light will pop out of the strap relatively easy. So far though, mine hasn't broken, just needs to be picked up and snapped back together. 

My advice, don't drop it


----------



## Garand (Jul 28, 2008)

I have dropped mine three times. All three times the light came off the headband.

I use a headlight when I ride my ATV at night. I keep it around my neck when I am not using it.

This light will not work for me on my ATV because it will separate from the head band too easy and I will loose it.

Until I figure out how to fix this problem the light is not what I need.

Too bad because I am impressed with the output.

If I work out a fix for the problem I will let you know.


----------



## Marduke (Jul 28, 2008)

Is the band slipping through the gaps in the plastic part on the light which holds the band? My solution to a similar problem was wrapping a piece of plastic side from a 2-liter soda bottle around that gap so nothing can slip through.


----------



## Garand (Jul 29, 2008)

No. Not that simple.

The light is attached to a plastic piece that is attached to the strap.

The light comes off the piece that is attached to the strap.

It is a poor set up but as soon as I get the time I will figure out a fix.

I love this light. The output is amazing. If I can fix this flaw it will be my everyday use light.


----------



## Dogmeat (Jul 30, 2008)

I went into Wal-Mart today, hoping to score some of the Rayovac headlamps. No luck, but I broke down and bought the Coleman.

I am not a flashlight wonk like many of you. The only headlamp I have to compare it to is an old Princeton TEC 3-AAA lamp. The Tec had old batteries and on high it is slightly dimmer in the hot spot than the Coleman. With new batteries, it might be brighter.

That said, the TEC has a terribly misshapen hot spot and no spill. The Coleman has a perfect circle and a very nice, even spill. It's also about 1/3 the weight of my old lamp.

I do see how it could fall off, though I didn't drop it to test. The pressure clamp is fairly secure on mine and I could not get it to budge even with hard shaking. I would venture to say it would take quite a secondary jolt to dislodge it. But a good direct wack could knock it off.

I'm basically happy with it, though I was trying to avoid using AAA batteries. I'll take it through Hezekiah's Tunnel in November and see if I can keep it on my head and dry.


----------



## redburn_38 (Jul 31, 2008)

2 small black zip ties should do the trick and neatly trim them.


----------



## vtunderground (Aug 1, 2008)

I saw one of these in a cave today... The output was definitely not 105 lumens  - it was comparable to my SSC P4-equipped EOS on "high". 

The owner confirmed that it was the one advertised as having 105 lumens, not the 55 lumen model. :shrug:


----------



## Garand (Aug 2, 2008)

I have no way of measuring or even guessing the output but I do know I am impressed with it.

It is by far the most powerful headlight I own.


----------



## ncg53 (Aug 10, 2008)

I just got this light and so far I like it. Its not INSANELY bright but its definitely got enough brightness that for your typical camping or hiking trip it is plenty. I would say for mtn biking it is not enough. Road biking it'd be pretty good. I really liked the fact it has two red led's(they are a very usable brightness). The switch is kind of a pain to turn, but my guess is it will start to loosen up and feel real nice eventually. I wanted to add that this thing IS indeed waterproof. Im not sure to what extent but the battery cap does actually have softer rubber on the edges that mate against the main body. The switch on the side also has a O ring and the screw holding it on has a rubber washer. The lenses in front of the LED's are glue'd to the body. My guess would be you could easily dunk it and it'd be fine. I wouldn't go swimming with it though. Not sure if maybe this is just a recent upgrade, but I just got mine the other day. 
Nick


----------



## darknessemitter (Aug 27, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*



Hooked on Fenix said:


> Yes, I still like mine. By the way, your head isn't crooked. The red l.e.d.s in mine have hotspots one on top of the other, which seems strange since the beams should be side by side. I tried mine out on a overnight backpacking trip up Mt. San Jacinto last weekend. I wish it had a third lower setting. I tried seeing my freeze dried dinner at night with it. The white low was too bright for this task and the red l.e.d.s didn't make my dinner look very good.


 
It's defninitely not a LOW-low, but at least it's noticably dimmer than the high setting. I can't stand it when a multi-mode light barely has any difference between settings. 

My red hotspots are also one over the other, but I don't really mind it too much. It might actually turn out useful to see more of the path that you're walking on, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you need to be super stealthy, or need to maximize battery life.


----------



## brjones (Aug 27, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*



VegasF6 said:


> The red 5mm leds surprised me with there brightness as well, indoors at least, but the focus on them is a little funny. Either one is higher than the other, or my head is crooked



You're totally right. Mine is exactly the same way, down to the weird hotspots. I find the red LED's to be totally lame, but then again, I don't like red LED's, weird patterns or no, albeit this has decent brightness. The light would much more benefit from a "medium" mode (yes, I said it) instead. Or alternatively, a "really low" setting. Less cost, weight, and I've always seen the "red LED" as a gimmick feature--a hallmark of cheapie headlamps, though I'm sure there're exceptions.

Here's the Wal-Mart link. This was available in my store, but it was on the bottom hanger, easily missed. The packaging is also lame (too subdued), lending no loud suggestion of its easy superiority over the stupid 8 and 11 lumen schlock they have.


Coleman Cree XLamp XR-E LED Headlamp, 3 "AAA"
$24.88, model 2000001571, Wal-Mart # 000964776
Made in China (except for the LED, which I think is USA-made)
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10196615


The twist switch is too positive, hard to turn with one hand, and I don't believe it'll loosen up. I thought the strap and head mount were of very high quality materials and design. Haven't worn it long-term, but when I first put it on at least, I thought it was very comfortable.

A hidden feature of this light is the ability to take it off the mount (and put it back) very easily. You then have a handy side-firing (albeit not easily stood-on-end) fat little cylinder of a light, which fits fairly well in a pocket. I think the good strap/mount assembly could be modded to hold other things.

In my research, this is proably the best "value" or "bang for the buck" headlamp out there. But my assumption is these are low-bin Cree's, and the light & quality are very good for the price, but it won't "blow you away" either. What it will do is "blow away" anything comparable that's a few years older in a side-by-side test. I also realized this will not replace a (planned) Zebralight H30 for me. The light output is probably about the same, but the Zebra is drastically smaller and more versatile, and has no hot spot at all, which for me seems better for "around house" and "around camp" headlamps. I also don't think it'll replace a modern "pocket rocket" for when you need a pocket-sized "spotlight"... However, to have one ready for a friend, as a gift, a backup, or to keep one where you wouldn't leave a Fenix, I think you can't go wrong. 

I took some photos and I hope to do a full review before this product loses momentum, but I'm constrained right now, plus I'd like to do some beamshots.

Thanks to CPF for the tip-off on this one.

*- What is the model or lumen rating of the "2-AA" Coleman headlamp, or this mystery Rayovac headlamp? **I must've missed something. **Also, is the "handheld Coleman Max 3aaa 135 lumens" mentioned in post #5, in fact the model linked below (rated at 115 lumens)?:
*Coleman Cree XLamp XR-E LED Flashlight, 2 "AA"Model 2000001569, $24.88
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10196613

I also didn't realize you could get a huge (5 D cell?) [email protected] at WM for like 18 bucks (why does everybody here spell it like that--is it a bad word or something around here?).


----------



## Marduke (Aug 27, 2008)

Search for "Coleman" in thread _titles only_ using the CPF search and you'll turn up those Coleman lights.


----------



## adirondackdestroyer (Aug 27, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

Mine also has an ugly uneven beam in the red setting. 

I'm actually surprised that Coleman (and other companies using Cree XRE) aren't hyping them up on the packaging about how incredibly bright they are. 

This light is actually quite a bit brighter than my Zebralight H50 Q5. The Coleman tested out at over 100 lumens with fresh cells. 
I also doubt they are using low bin Crees, mostly because they are using the new silver Crees which haven't been made for all that long. 







brjones said:


> You're totally right. Mine is exactly the same way, down to the weird hotspots.
> The packaging is also lame (too subdued), lending no loud suggestion of its easy superiority over the stupid 8 and 11 lumen schlock they have.
> In my research, this is proably the best "value" or "bang for the buck" headlamp out there. But my assumption is these are low-bin Cree's, and the light & quality are very good for the price, but it won't "blow you away" either. What it will do is "blow away" anything comparable that's a few years older in a side-by-side test. I also realized this will not replace a (planned) Zebralight H30 for me. The light output is probably about the same, but the Zebra is drastically smaller and more versatile, and has no hot spot at all, which for me seems better for "around house" and "around camp" headlamps. I also don't think it'll replace a modern "pocket rocket" for when you need a pocket-sized "spotlight"... However, to have one ready for a friend, as a gift, a backup, or to keep one where you wouldn't leave a Fenix, I think you can't go wrong.


----------



## brjones (Aug 28, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*



adirondackdestroyer said:


> This light is actually quite a bit brighter than my Zebralight H50 Q5. The Coleman tested out at over 100 lumens with fresh cells.
> I also doubt they are using low bin Crees, mostly because they are using the new silver Crees which haven't been made for all that long.



Thanks for that correction and the test!! Sweet info! The Coleman does in fact have a nice throw/spill combination (if that's what you like) for a less-expensive headlamp. But the more I think about it as I consider which lights to purchase, I think having a "true flood" headlamp with less throw (à la Zebralight), combined with a "throwy", powerful handheld flashlight (which can be easily turned on/off, to conserve batteries), is probably a great combination (albeit for more money).


----------



## brjones (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: New Cree XR-E headlight at Walmart for $25*

*I'm going to rescind my declaration of "best value" in a headlamp* (though I don't have a replacement "award" ). 

Last night, I had a little run-in with a skunk under my porch as I came home from work. I didn't know it was a skunk, I just heard something before I took to the steps. I had my headlamp with me, and it was almost dark, so I put it on to look through the cross-hatched wood which is supposed to keep "critters" out of there, and I see this butt of a skunk right up against the cross-hatching, tail up, aiming at me . Now here's the good thing: had I not had that headset, I probably would've pressed my face up against the cross-hatching (it is very dark underneath the porch, and was almost dark outside), and I probably would've gotten a face-full. I then left it on high and watched this juvenile skunk calm down and resume trying to "break into" the underside of my house (oblivious to me with 70 or so lumens on him). So after about 5-7 minutes of watching him (only "high" was really useful, but it was useful), I was done, but it was the first time I was sure I could notice a lessening in brightness. I had probably had it on ~around~ 8-10 minutes total beforehand, maybe. I decided to keep it on, and the brightness significantly decreased over the next 5 minutes to an unimpressive level, somehow equal with "low". That's still "usable" light for very close things; I experimented, and was comfortably able to eat using it. But otherwise, it seemed spent. 

Now here's the big proviso. I was using cheapo 700 mAh NiMH AAA's. I know 1000 mah's are available now fairly cheap, at least at batteries.com (I plan to get some). "But still." I expected more than 15 minutes useful burntime in high, even on cheap batteries. The packaging is of course ridiculous in claiming "6 hours" runtime (I think?) on high--yeah, maybe, if you consider "high" to be the "same as low, and getting lower". Sure, they exaggerate. But come on. But I knew there was more juice in those batteries, it's just wasted due to the lack of any regulation. It's all about the voltage with these unregulated LED's.

So, number one, have good batteries for it, and enough of them. And a backup light to change the batteries. I definitely wouldn't recommend using this for something that required any significant length of time on high--but it's for the "high mode" that you buy it. To me, 15 minutes is not enough time to comfortably change a tire with time to spare. With good NiMH batteries, I calculate you might get in the low 20's of a decent high mode. That's starting to be useful for a lot of things, but to me it's the lowest end of useful runtime for something that size.

I also noticed that I often can't twist the setting without changing the whole angle of the light, because the twisty is too positive. So it's generally 2-handed. *But you can turn the lamp off in the gap between High and Low*, and have your choice to go straight to High or Low immediately (otherwise, you are forced to rudely start on high).

On a positive note, *I was able to (easily) remove the lamp module from the head mount, and use it as a "flashlight", and (the important part) easily put it back on my head,* without taking off the band. Now that is cool. It was nice to be able to put the lamp right into one of the holes of the cross-hatches with my hand, and illuminate the whole underside of the porch, and then easily put it back on my head. The plastic arms (wings?) which hold the lamp are flexible, and you just bend one to the side a little, and pull out the light. The light can only go in oriented correctly Left-Right due to differing-sized holes on each side. Put in the right side first, then just push in the left side, and it snaps in 

I think like most "bargain" items, this was meant to meet a "price point" (ugh), and that most of the users will probably just let it set in a drawer somewhere, and only use it during a power outage or attic adventure. I expected a steady "linear" drop, but actually it seemed pretty strong for awhile, then pretty much lost most of its usefulness not long into it. It'd probably stay on that really "low" high setting for a day, but who cares. We like to pick things apart here (and find EVERY flaw), but really *this thing could SERIOUSLY use some regulation*, and otherwise IMHO cannot be considered a "serious" headlamp, not much beyond a (pretty bright) toy, vs a real tool. And further realization that more expensive "toys" might be less of an ultimate waste of money.


----------



## Marduke (Aug 29, 2008)

There is also the possibility that your off brand 700mAh's are either not in the best of shape, or never were. It's hard to tell without doing a discharge test though.


----------



## TorchBoy (Aug 29, 2008)

brjones, do you have any AAA Eneloops you could try in it? They're reliable batteries with a nice even voltage output.

I find the Coleman headlamp interesting since it claims such a really high output for a runtime similar to what I estimated for the medium mode of a headlamp I made a few months ago. That medium mode would definitely not be 105 lumens; with its Cree XR-E P4, 22-35 lumens depending on the battery state would be about right. That implies that the change in brightness of the Coleman headlamp in order to last 6 hours would be really large, and makes a representative brightness figure hard to nail down.

Reasons I've seen for "[email protected]" include not wanting to clutter the search engines, not liking the way Mag Instruments does business (something to do with a law suit from way back, I gather), or referring to a generic sort or similar style of torch made by someone else. I remember a thread about that and "fauxton" which I found quite informative.


----------



## degarb (Aug 30, 2008)

Got mine last night. Looks like a good supplemental light at good price. Wide reflector=hard to keep up with 2005 outdated lux1 with narrow 6 degree smooth reflector for tasks (though better with colors). I did see a serious drop in output in 45 minutes use. It couldn't hold candle to my Browning Nitro headlamp, especially my modded 3 AA Nitro and 25 ohm pot. 

It beats the Nitro on price and availability. The low setting is nice, so I won't need a pot. I might buy a radio shack 1 AA and 2 AA holder, Then Hotglue and solder in a center strap, with 1 aa in front and the 2 aa in rear of strap. This will cost about $4, but should triple runtime with little added weight.

---
I don't consider myself a flashaholic. Since, once I replace all my lights with brighter ones, I can happily live without all my current lamps. Plus, its headlamps that I really fancy.


----------



## fishx65 (Aug 30, 2008)

Picked one up the other night to compare it to my Seoul modded EOS. It's a very nice little headlamp! With fresh hybrids in each, the Coleman is brighter with a very nice beam. Nice hotspot and lots of bright flood. The one I picked up has an awesome tint. Love the UI on this thing ( very fast and easy to change modes ). I'm sure it's not the best out there but for $25.00 it's awesome! Might be my new hunting and night fishing headlamp.


----------



## degarb (Aug 30, 2008)

fishx65 said:


> Picked one up the other night to compare it to my Seoul modded EOS. It's a very nice little headlamp! With fresh hybrids in each, the Coleman is brighter with a very nice beam. Nice hotspot and lots of bright flood. The one I picked up has an awesome tint. Love the UI on this thing ( very fast and easy to change modes ). I'm sure it's not the best out there but for $25.00 it's awesome! Might be my new hunting and night fishing headlamp.




Agree on all points (price, ui, flood, hotsp,), except color-though not as bad as a Lux1 or nichia. But this bin of Cree (I have one 3 AAA and one headlamp as of now) quickly goes a sickly green with lowered batts, compared to a rebel 100. My two rebels (browning phantom rebel 70 and nitro rebel 100), esp. the Nitro rebel 100, make all my Crees, lux3 warm, or Seoul I own, look pale for color rendering. Although, they are way better than a lux 1. Since I am using to paint professionally, this is important. Even at lower light, I can see more detail with a Rebel.

I've yet to head to head compare to a special warm seoul or special Cree bin, with the Rebel 100.


----------



## degarb (Sep 7, 2008)

I got a current meter to supplement my ailing 14 year old meter. 

Tested two Coleman lights I own--105 lumen head lamp and 117 lumen 3 AAA $25. Both seem to be driven at about 200 milliamps on new NiMh 1.2 volt x 3 cells (.72 watts). This makes me doubt the lumen rating; at least last December the best Cree's were up to about 100 lumen per watt.

To me converting to a wrist light, (just hack saw head off and velcro/solder onto a 4 AA holder with variable resistor to get it brighter. Though this doesn't make a suitable, typical 3 AA conversion headlamp, since the dim hot spot doesn't compare to a properly setup brinkman lux 1 or garrity lux 1.
I will need to remove internal resistor, I guess. And perhaps add a controller. What a pain.


----------



## Blacklight (Sep 8, 2008)

degarb said:


> I got a current meter to supplement my ailing 14 year old meter.
> 
> Tested two Coleman lights I own--105 lumen head lamp and 117 lumen 3 AAA $25. Both seem to be driven at about 200 milliamps on new NiMh 1.2 volt x 3 cells (.72 watts). This makes me doubt the lumen rating; at least last December the best Cree's were up to about 100 lumen per watt.
> 
> ...


 
Your drive current is way off. not sure why though. I just can tell you that the drive current on these lights is much higher than 200. Either you have a defective light, or maybe an issue with your meter, since both of them test at 200, i would say its an issue with your meter. We don't do a 117 Lumen light, do you mean you tested it and it came up 117 lumens?


----------



## TorchBoy (Sep 8, 2008)

degarb, did you use the 200 mA range on your multimeter? If so, could you try again with the highest current range, 10 A for example?


----------



## hopkins (Sep 8, 2008)

hey Degarb - if you have a few components this simple circuit will
vary the output of the Cree. The only real critical value is to get a transistor
that can handle the current when running full blast, although stacking small
signal transistors up to get the current handling capability of a power trans
is done with ok results during saturation (LED at full blast!).

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff319/12eric/variableoutputcircuit.jpg
..........
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff319/12eric/varicircuit001.jpg


----------



## brjones (Sep 9, 2008)

degarb has got me thinking. i am electronics novice. how much voltage can this unit handle, before it is toast? since AA holders can be found easily, i wonder if there are 18650 holders? I have an old laptop pack I'm gonna bust open. This unit expects 4.5V. Rigging a single 18650 starting at 4.2V would be nice, but why stop there. I wonder what happens if you nail it with the 8.4 volts of two 18650's in series... or, more humanely, four AA's 4.8V NiMH or 6V on alkalines. I don't know 'bout removing the internal resistor or what that's for. We just can't leave well enough alone, can we? But seriously, with more capacity (and I think voltage), if reliable it could actually be useful for more than getting your mail and spying on skunks.

On a different note, I obtained a few freebie 9-LED GreatLites. Nine half-watt LED's makes 4.5 watts on paper. Biggish hotspot with very little spill. Even shining two greatlites on the same spot, it was nothing in comparison to the Coleman. And it wasn't just so much the light output, I could just SEE so much more (detail) with the Coleman--I guess it was the tint. It was surprising, I could "see" more, and it was pretty much a world away. The Greatlites were not bad for free, but I didn't think tint made THAT much difference--if that's what it was. Perhaps the best thing about the greatlites was that they came with what appears to be a three-AAA to "C" adapter in series, from all I can gather. I was wondering what evil things I could do with a few of these voltage-boosting adapters in something which took C cells. Of course, then I came back to reality and realized it's prolly easier to just buy a cheapo DX lite which takes self-respecting cells than bob & buff some [email protected]!te with a drop-in. 

@Torchboy: I don't have Eneloops, but I'm obviously in the market for some AAA rechargeables if you have hot tips where to pick 'em up.

If I were like some of you "modder" guys I'd definitely want to replace those two red LED's with one or two low-output whites and have a true 3-mode lamp.

Degarb, the idea for a wristlight was cool. However I don't think you need to hack it up. Wal-Mart sells velcro strips, some with strong "permanent" adhesive backing (also with no adhesive you could epoxy on). You could make yourself a fuzzy "bracelet" and pop the lamp onto it. Easily popped back on the mount, plenty of clearance. Altho wouldn't the light move a lot on your wrist? Maybe put velcro backing somewhere else, like on a backpack strap? 

I did actually remove the screw in the middle of the twisty last night. It enables the plastic cap to pop off which cap moves the actual switch inside. So that screw shouldn't have any bearing on how much resistance the twisty gives (even with cap on and no screw, there's resistance). However, my twisty is now inexplicaply slightly easier to turn. Still somewhat tight but I can turn it without ratcheting the angle now. 

Despite being an "is what it is" lite, I've gotten a fair amount of use out of it so far as an "interim" headlamp, and wouldn't feel bad about risking sacrificing it to the mod gods to make it more useful now.

I still think the easy-detach undocumented (if incidental) feature (not a defect) is way cool. I feel bad that Garand's piece separates so easily. Mine definitely does not, and I wouldn't have any worry about the capsule flying off the headpiece while riding. I wouldn't use it for motoring though unless I didn't mind changing batteries every 15-45 minutes, depending on your cells. 

A further undocumented feature is that with the capsule/lamp detached, although the shape is cylindrical, it will point whatever direction you want it to (up, level, diagonal). I mean it is balanced, or does not have a weight point which makes it always roll to one position, at least with my NiMH. I don't think that was intentional, but it's quite coincidental. So IMO, better than some d*ck light which supposedly can stand on end in "candle mode" but in reality could not stand in most "real world" scenarios like camping or on bare earth. This thing will point wherever you want, and since it's side-firing, no need to attempt to stand it on end. Or just keep it on its base and point it wherever you want; then it's really going nowhere. Just needs better runtime or regulation. And maybe more JUICE!

Best way to get the battery back off is to push under the compartment lever with your thumb ("shove", not "pry")... if you have a thumbnail. 

No evidence of waterproofing on the batt compartment, but would probably do OK in the rain anyway.

I could be going out on a limb here, but it almost seems this thing was originally designed for two or three AA's, owing to the spacing between the AAA cells. Were it not for the bulky switch, there'd be enough room lengthwise. And widthwise, there's enough room for at least two, possibly three AA's. Now that would've been neat, if heavy. Seems bigger than necessary for 3 x AAA. Maybe it was originally a AA design, and redesigned for weight concerns.

I noticed my reflector is off-center from the emitter (or vice versa), and the reflector has the faut-pas flat ring at the back, but none of these seem to mean much in actual use. While not 'white wall hunter perfect', for someone who grew up on incandescents, it's still a trip.


----------



## TorchBoy (Sep 9, 2008)

brjones said:


> I wonder what happens if you nail it with the 8.4 volts of two 18650's in series...


 unless you incorporate a suitable driver. A resistor could do the job if nothing better was available.



brjones said:


> Perhaps the best thing about the greatlites was that they came with what appears to be a three-AAA to "C" adapter in series, from all I can gather. I was wondering what evil things I could do with a few of these voltage-boosting adapters in something which took C cells.


If they are the holders I'm thinking of they're bigger than a C cell.



brjones said:


> @Torchboy: I don't have Eneloops, but I'm obviously in the market for some AAA rechargeables if you have hot tips where to pick 'em up.


My hottest tip is at a shop that sell 'em cheap. You might like to mention where you are, and whether you want to buy online or at a local brick-'n'-mortar, or just look up a "Where do I buy Eneloops?" thread. They're worth looking for. :twothumbs


----------



## degarb (Sep 9, 2008)

Blacklight said:


> Your drive current is way off. not sure why though. I just can tell you that the drive current on these lights is much higher than 200. Either you have a defective light, or maybe an issue with your meter, since both of them test at 200,



"I just can tell you that the drive current..."? You can just tell? Did you test with a multimeter?

No, just bought a brand new meter for $30 at RS. And still, about 200 milliamp draw from 3 cells on all three coleman lights, give or take a few milliamps.

I will say, after converting power supplies, driving these new coleman's (xr-e and xr-x version) at 300 to 400 milliamps, they really light up. The xr-c can light up a tree from hundreds of feet too. On a wall, that thrower makes all the other lights seem on low.


----------



## adirondackdestroyer (Sep 9, 2008)

I have both the Coleman 3AAA headlamp and the Coleman 2AA Flashlight sold at Walmart, and there is no way they are only running at 200MA. 
The headlamp is over 100 lumens out the front with fresh cells, and the flashlight is around 95 lumens out the front. When you factor in light loss from the reflector, that means the LED must be putting out at least 125 lumens or more. This would mean that even with the most efficient (Q5/R2) the LED would need over 350MA to be this bright. I also highly doubt Coleman is using high bin crees as they are more expensive and the average customer doesn't even understand. 
I'm only guessing, but I would say they are running at around 450MA or more.


----------



## TorchBoy (Sep 9, 2008)

degarb said:


> No, just bought a brand new meter for $30 at RS. And still, about 200 milliamp draw from 3 cells on all three coleman lights, give or take a few milliamps.


Perhaps there's a production variation here, but there are other possibilities too. Is it possible for you to try shorting the multimeter leads while reading the current, so the resistance of the ammeter is taken out of the circuit? Does the light get brighter? Have you tried using one of your meters to measure the resistance of the other when it's in ammeter mode?



adirondackdestroyer said:


> I have both the Coleman 3AAA headlamp and the Coleman 2AA Flashlight sold at Walmart, and there is no way they are only running at 200MA.


I would hope not. 200 mega-amps would melt it instantly.


----------



## VegasF6 (Sep 9, 2008)

"Is it possible for you to try shorting the multimeter leads while reading the current, so the resistance of the ammeter is taken out of the circuit?"

Could you elaborate on this a little? I haven't heard of the trick before.


----------



## TorchBoy (Sep 9, 2008)

I'm not sure how you're taking the reading, so it may not even be possible. My idea is that if your ammeter has a high resistance on the range you're using then shorting the ammeter out of the circuit by touching the probes to each other will remove its resistance from your circuit. If the current flowing in the circuit was being limited by that resistance the LED would get brighter.

I found a few weeks ago that that in their 200 mA ranges my three multimeters vary from about 1 ohm to about 5 ohms (!), which makes accurate current measurements hard with at least two of them in that range.


----------



## degarb (Sep 9, 2008)

Well, who else is going to try a multi meter reading and post their current? I will play another day/night.

Another thought, these are made in China, they cheat on everything. They might have a big bin, a pot porri, of resistors.

All three of my lights were 3 AAA version so I could soup them up a tad--one headlamp, one 3 AAA flashlight, and one xr-c. I didn't think the hotspot on either xr-e's tolerably bright enough, so I hacked a more aggressive power source for them. The $20 xr-c (almost 30 lumen less rating than the xr-e) is in a whole new class for led hotspot brightness (As in, are my other lights turned on high?), far beyond my Energizer Hardcase Cree 2 AA. While the modified xr-e, makes you think someone turned on a 40 watt bulb in the room behind you, it still has a fraction of the xr-c hotspot and throw,


----------



## VegasF6 (Sep 9, 2008)

My batteries aren't exactly freshly charged, but they are totaling 3.87 volts. In high, my lamp is pulling 310 mA from the cells. On low 60-70 milliamps. I didn't bother to try the red leds. 

A little embarresed to admit it, but these are with RadioShack 700 mAh nimh.

Of course, this doesn't mean that is what the led is receiving, there is some sort of buck circuit isn't there?


----------



## TorchBoy (Sep 9, 2008)

VegasF6 said:


> Of course, this doesn't mean that is what the led is receiving, there is some sort of buck circuit isn't there?


With just three AAA cells there isn't much spare voltage to buck.


----------



## VegasF6 (Sep 10, 2008)

I dunno about that. Fresh alk's should be about 1.6 volts. Yes, I know it will sag some under load, but we are only talking less than a third of an amp, and I can't imagine the led voltage much over 3 ~ 3.2 at the most. (at that current). Something is controlling the current. 

You can see a pretty large resistor inside, but one resistor alone wouldn't control both high and low of course. I am kind of surprised to see a metal film type instead of smd. Well maybe it is just a "dumb" circuit.


----------



## TorchBoy (Sep 10, 2008)

Maybe the resistor is only for low mode, and maybe an ordinary old metal film resistor can handle heat better. :shrug: If the 105 lumen (with fresh batteries) figure is right it would need a bit over a third of an amp with fresh batteries... which would need a resistor. Maybe there's another one hidden somewhere that's common to both modes.


----------



## degarb (Sep 11, 2008)

Does anyone know if Coleman might make a xr-c version of this headlamp?

I got the Coleman xr-c 3 AA $20 flashlight. The throw is awesome. The xr-c is better at throw than the xr-e by nature, plus they use a smooth reflector.

The advantage of this format is it is far brighter, where the eye focuses--far brighter, dudes. And, even at under 100 milliamps with xr-c, the hotspot will rival this xr-e headlamp on high. Thus, 10 hour runtime with a bright hotspot on 800 milliamp hour 3 AAA. 

I know this because, I hacked off the head and made a 4 AA wristlight, controlled with a 25ohm 3 watt variable resistor (500 milliamp is rate max for the xr-c.) sold at Radio Shack. The head of the xr-c, though, is too bulky to make into a headlamp.


----------



## chris_m (Sep 11, 2008)

degarb said:


> Does anyone know if Coleman might make a xr-c version of this headlamp?
> 
> I got the Coleman xr-c 3 AA $20 flashlight. The throw is awesome. The xr-c is better at throw than the xr-e by nature, plus they use a smooth reflector.


That's not down to the XR-C LED - that throws no better than an XR-E, given it is pretty much just a lower output version of that. What you'd want is an XP-E LED for a super thrower. In reality I find I get plenty of throw from my homemade XR-E headlamp, I wouldn't want more at the expense of the flood - with a headlamp you generally want to see where your feet are.


----------



## degarb (Sep 12, 2008)

chris_m said:


> That's not down to the XR-C LED - that throws no better than an XR-E, given it is pretty much just a lower output version of that. What you'd want is an XP-E LED for a super thrower. In reality I find I get plenty of throw from my homemade XR-E headlamp, I wouldn't want more at the expense of the flood - with a headlamp you generally want to see where your feet are.



I realize the xr-e is nearly 30 lumens better per watt, in theory at least. But the xr-c coleman dogs the xr-e, as in, "is this xr-e even on?" 

Now, I am not using headlamps for camping. And when walking outside I prefer an adjustable wristlight. I am using them as tasklights. Usually for most tasks, it is always possible and practical to plug in at least one worklight. So flood isn't important, only the spot. And in terms of spot/detail illumination, the xr-c blows away the xr-e both raw brightness at eye focus radius and efficiency watt/per lux factor, utterly shames it. I also conclude the corona as good or better than any 2005 light, which I rarely need anyway. This mean better detail, spotting things from afar, better dust/textural spotting, able to straff wall at 15 degrees for 15 foot long relief, and ability to see detail better at 80 milliamps v. xr-e 340 milliamps. 

Now, not sure if since xr-c has smaller die, so throwing more narrow angle, thus higher lux, can be matched by raw lumen output of xr-e plus narrow smooth reflector. Someone would need to build both and compare.


----------



## likhary (Sep 14, 2008)

I took one. The other one looked very off center, but was probably just a matter of taking it apart and putting it back together. They also had the Coleman max 3aaa handheld that claimed 135 lumens.


----------



## Dogmeat (Sep 14, 2008)

On the lumen claim: It sould be noted that on the package for the headlamp is the information-

_"This is the rated lumen output from the light source as measured from the manufacturer, actual lumen output may vary. These numbers are only applicable to the LED when junction temperature is measured at 25 degrees C. It does not include the thermal loss, driver loss and secondary optics loss that will occur in the system."_

Yeah, lost in the fine print, but it does seem Colemsn doesn't actually say you'll get 105 lumens in real use.

I still have to say, for what it costs, I like the light.


----------



## beetleguise (Sep 16, 2008)

*Cree*

Coleman has a 20 dollar coleman at walmart with a cree that is brighter than a stinger. A guy I work with showed up with one last night, it is just as bright as my modded one, but 1/4th the cost.:thumbsup:


----------



## DM51 (Sep 16, 2008)

*Re: Cree*

You need to give more information. Please also improve the very undescriptive thread title.


----------



## Aircraft800 (Sep 18, 2008)

I found a good thread on this one here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201822&highlight=Coleman
Looks nice, maybe not as rugged as I need, but at $20,worth a try.


----------



## beetleguise (Sep 19, 2008)

*Re: Cree*

MY apologies for not posting correctly. Sorry, but I have no other information for you. I only know that it is a Cree, it is made by Coleman,it can be purchased at walmart for $20.00, is probably a Q5 minimum since it it as bright as mine, and it is brighter than a stinger handheld flashlight. Just wanted to inform headlamp enthusiasts of a super bright cheap product. 
Again, a thousand apologies.


----------



## DM51 (Sep 19, 2008)

*Re: Coleman Cree headlamp*

It sounds like this one. Anyone know if it is the same?


----------



## NeonLights (Sep 19, 2008)

*Re: Coleman Cree headlamp*

Sounds like the one I picked up last night at WalMart for $25. Cree headlamp made/distributed by Coleman with high and low for the Cree and two red LED's as well. For the price I was blown away, I have at least 6 or 8 other headlamps around here, but all are older Nichia or Nichia/incan lights with much lower output.


----------



## DM51 (Sep 19, 2008)

*Re: Coleman Cree headlamp*

I'm merging the 2 threads.


----------



## Garand (Sep 22, 2008)

I was very impressed with the output of this light but when I put a set of rechargeable batteries I was amazed at the difference. It was like a totally different light.

The brightness seemed to almost double with a set of cheap ray o vac rechargeables.


----------



## car54 (Oct 27, 2008)

I bought this headlamp a few weeks ago and have to say it is by far my favorite. I work all night outside fixing security cameras and coutner terrorist truck barriers. I buy cheap flashlights because I tend to lose them or break them. I used a Brinkmann 3w LED from target before I found this coleman, and I like the coleman much better. 

Ive considered adding a 2AA battery pack and driver setup on the back of the strap and wiring it into the headlamp to bypass the 3xAAA. I want to be able to use high capacity nimh rechargables and stop buying AAA's.


----------



## BlackDecker (Oct 28, 2008)

car54 said:


> I bought this headlamp a few weeks ago and have to say it is by far my favorite. I work all night outside fixing security cameras and coutner terrorist truck barriers. I buy cheap flashlights because I tend to lose them or break them. I used a Brinkmann 3w LED from target before I found this coleman, and I like the coleman much better.
> 
> Ive considered adding a 2AA battery pack and driver setup on the back of the strap and wiring it into the headlamp to bypass the 3xAAA. I want to be able to use high capacity nimh rechargables and stop buying AAA's.



Why not buy high capacity nimh AAA rechargeables? The rayovac and eneloops AAA's perform quite well.


----------



## degarb (Oct 28, 2008)

BlackDecker said:


> Why not buy high capacity nimh AAA rechargeables? The rayovac and eneloops AAA's perform quite well.



Because 3 AAA only have 2.4 wtt hour capacity. That is 2.4 hour, with half at half brightness. If you use a headlamp for work, you need 7 to 12 hours typically. This means you have option to 3 AA it, to optimize brightness over work period, and reduce worker breaks that will be blamed on battery changes. (this could add up in a year.) Or just live with 3 AAA format, swap batt sets every 2 hours, and buy a 15 minute charger and overnight charger to match each worker.

A 3 AAA format is easily changeable to 3 AA. I recommend 2 AA in back of head and one in front. I would add a center strap of wide elastic. (tools: soldering, wire, 2 AA holder, 1 AA holder, hotglue, Amazing goop glue optional, elastic or velcro) I would be interested as to controller you might pick and why. I just put inline a 25 ohm 3 watt rheostat from the Shack at $4 ish, which allows me to stretch batteries to at least 11 hours. I will start using controllers when they become %100 efficient, have a built in knob adjustment, and can handle anything from 4 cells to very weak 3 cells with none of this "sorry pack dead though you could get 2 hours more if on direct drive". Also, I must be made aware of the existence and source of such a controller.


----------



## BlackDecker (Nov 2, 2008)

I picked up the Coleman today at Wal-Mart - still $24.88. The battery case is a VERY tight fit for my Energizer NiMh batteries. It would be a bit difficult to do a battery swap in a dark area just by feel. The build quality is ok, nothing spectacular. I do like the beam pattern of the main LED. The Wal-Mart I visited had at least 2 dozen of them on a lower section of the flashlight section, so I was able to pick and choose to find one with the LED centered behind the reflector.

The switch is very stiff as mentioned by someone in a previous post.

I own a Zebralight, but wanted a second headlamp with a bit less spill and more throw. The Coleman does seem to fit the need.


----------



## PCC (Nov 4, 2008)

I'm a first-time poster here so please go easy on me 

I bought one of these lights to use while cycling, attached to my helmet. I plan on modifying it with an external battery pack and waterproofing it, too. The plan is to use four rechargeable AA cells in an external battery holder and running a cable to the light. Four NiMH AA cells would produce about 4.8 volts while three AAA alkaline cells would produce about 4.5 so I probably won't burn this thing out. I have a second one on its way to use around the house.

It works really well as a helmet-mounted light as it's much closer to my line of sight compared to the handlebar mounted NiteRider Minewt USB that I'm using in addition to this light, even though the light output of the USB puts this light to shame. That's because I get a bright spot in front of me that follows my head. I can turn my head and point the beam at obstacles, at inattentive drivers, at things lurking in the shadows, etc. I just need it to last longer than four commutes before needing new batteries.


----------



## PCC (Nov 9, 2008)

I used this lamp for the first time the other day to ride home. It has a nice, tight hot spot but the color is yellow compared to my NiteRider Minewt-USB. With fresh batteries the Coleman lamp is slightly less bright compared to the USB. The problem is that the light dims quickly as the small batteries wear down. By the time I got home, after about 45 minutes of continuous use the spot wasn't very bright anymore.

I bought some 2400 MAH NiMH batteries and a 4-cell battery holder at Radio Shack. I drilled a hole in the battery door of the Coleman lamp and soldered the battery holder's power leads to the battery contacts on the inside of the lamp. I'll have to see how long this setup lasts before the LED dims. I tried running this setup for 15 minutes and the lamp stayed cool on the outside.

As a side note, the headlamp worked with 6 volts (4 AA alkalines) but the head got warm to the touch after five minutes of use. I shut it down at that point and let it cool off. I won't be doing that again. This lamp has almost no heatsink so there just wasn't any way to get rid of the excess heat that the greater voltage created. The brightness did improve, though. I used my camera as a light meter to determine relative brightness of this light compared to my USB (rated at 110 lumens). The camera was set to Aperture Preferred, spot metering, f4.5, ISO 800, and it was set up on a tripod pointing at the side of a counter that was not lit with direct light. The USB returned 1/250 sec. The Coleman at 4.8 volts returned 1/125 sec. The Coleman at 6 volts returned 1/250 sec.


----------



## PCC (Nov 9, 2008)

I guess I voided the warranty on this one.

I took one of the headlamps apart to see what it looks like inside.






You should be able to trace the electrical path by looking at the close-up of the circuit board. The battery's negative lead connects to "V-" on the right.





The writing on the star says "CREE XLAMP 7090".


----------



## Marduke (Nov 9, 2008)

Looks like it would be easy to change out the resistors and swap the red's for white's, which should gain two lower lows.


----------



## degarb (Nov 10, 2008)

PCC said:


> The problem is that the light dims quickly as the small batteries wear down. By the time I got home, after about 45 minutes of continuous use the spot wasn't very bright anymore.
> 
> I bought some 2400 MAH NiMH batteries and a 4-cell battery holder at Radio Shack. I drilled a hole



I think, this hotspot is rather wide, the weakness being that with small drop in battery voltage after short use, the light is worthless for seeing detail or far. You will be running more current on 4 AA than 3 cells. I would add the Radio Shack, 3 watt 25 ohm pot, for another $3, since it will nearly double your battery life, if you dim (even at slight pinch lower) when not needing full brightness. And with this setup you can open up the resistor as batteries fade. (The built in low resistor is good for reading, but too low to be of any other use.)

The problem with 4 AA is weight. I find 4 AA packs fall off my head as I look up at the sky, ceiling, or up a ladder. I can remedy this by buying two 2 AA holders (one for front, one for back of center strap that I add). Or glue some elastic on the 4 AA holder and make a necklass to wear under a shirt, of the holder. (downside of the neckless light, is portability of the light and time to get clipped together and worn making it less handy for short usage tasks.) (upside is lightness, comfort, extreme cold weather use, and ability to water proof light to hard downpour.)

Note too the Radio Shack 2 AA holder doesn't properly firewall the batteries. So any tear of the battery insulator can cause the batteries to touch, shorting one, and causing a fire on your head. So, it is very important to glue some cardboard or plastic to the partial firewall between the cells.


----------



## degarb (Nov 10, 2008)

My test shows 770 milliamp approx with 4 NiMH AA fresh but 12 hr off charger.


----------



## Garand (Nov 10, 2008)

I knew it was going to happen. I was wearing my light around my neck while riding my ATV. The light came off the headband and I lost it.

If you own one of these find a way to keep it attached to the headband if you want to keep it.


----------



## Marduke (Nov 11, 2008)

If you post a pic of the problem spot, I'm sure we could fix it. It sounds like you just need to close the gap on the headlamp.


----------



## BikeSkiLights (Dec 25, 2008)

This is my first post, having researched for the past couple
of days on the flashlight and mountain bike forums, Deal 
Extreme, Cree (product pages and datasheets --- yep
I'm of an electrical engineering background), and Seoul,
I trust I can provide some valuable insights such that
all who are interested can achieve a better apperciation
and usage of this awesome LED technology that has
been emerging over the past few years.

The world being what it is today, a disclaimer is in due 
cause. Let me clarify everything from the get-go, consider
everything I contribute as a lie and try it on at your own
risk.

Hmmm..., Looks like everyone's bored of this light by now.
For myself, 'been looking at it at Walmart for 6, maybe 7 
months now, couldn't justify it because I had the Raovac 
Sportsman Xtreme 1W headlamp. --- not a money
thing at all, oh but the clutter...

So here's the story, went cross country skiing night before 
last, and the Raovac wasn't quite doing it for me (great 
thrower / flood modes, but not such a great spill light).

So I picked up the Coleman last night.
When I got home, couldn't find the Raovac, figures...
probably dropped out of my car, out in the parking lot
at Walmart... I'm gonna miss that flood, great work light.
(If I see it in the clearance center for $9 I'll get another
one.)

'went skiing tonight, what a great light this Coleman is, 
especially on low, brings up the contrast of the ski tracks 
with it's spill and when adjusted just right the spot blends 
off into the ambient light such that your night vision is not 
totally destroyed and you can still enjoy the beauty of the 
night. Even with plenty of light reflecting off of clouds lighting 
the background it's very reassuing to have the Coleman's
spill to see the tracks (and obsticles --- less suprises)

The high beam is amazing, easily beats the low beam
of my Cygolite Night Rover Xtreme (6W MR11), great for
long downhill sections. Will be great for cloudless dark 
nights too. I may use this as a helmet light when
bicycle season returns.

PCC, thanks for the photos, this thing looks like it's
not designed to be disassemble. With your work, I
can see the insides. After a quick analysis, it's 
amazing how well optimized this simple design is.

For the Modders, don't up the voltage, sure you'll
get more current through the LED, and light, 
but you'll end up buring up those resistors. Funny 
I've seen the perception out there that a resistor is 
some sort of regulator, the purpose of those resistors 
is to "Limit" the diode current. If you want to 
get more output out of this little headlamp,
the thing to play around with are the resistors.

The big (1.3 ohm) resistor (R1) you see when changing batteries
limits the current to the XR-E LED for the high output
mode. At higher load currents, with NiMH batteries, 
(BTW, don't bother with, or at least dont expect 
decent performance with alkaline batteries for 
higher current applictions... per, 
http://www.greenbatteries.com/batterymyths.html
et al
i.e. use alkalines only if you have to, or are against
rechargables... in this day and age, we all need 
another rechargable battery to manage like we
need a .....)
the total battery voltage will be ~3.75 V, the LED's forward 
voltage will be ~3.3V, that leaves ~.45 volts to drop across R1.
Now we calculate Ir1 (which happens to be the LED's current) 
according to Ohm's law: 

Voltage .45
--------------------- i.e. -------------
Current X Resistance Ir1 X 1.3

(put your thumb over what you desire, 
and then compute the indicated operation)

Ixr-e = Ir1 = 346 mA

which is pretty darn close to the XR-E Group Q5's
rated current for 105 Lumen output.
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLamp7090XR-E.pdf
(page 4)

Notice how simple this design is, the resistor
Limits or controls the current. Change the resistor
and you change the current

Please note regulation is some attempt to maintain,
in this case it'd be, a steady current as voltage drops.
The resistor is not a regulator since it only limits the
current according to the total voltage comming from
the batteries.

If you change R1, be careful of the resultant heat for
the XR-E. More LED current will give more Lumens and
also generate more heat. R1 is readily accessable, you
may be able to "kludge" a resistor in parallel by carefully
soldering to the exposed leads. Here's what you may 
expect:
Estimated
Rparallel Requiv Lumens Current Power (XR-E)
none 1.3 105 350 mA 1140 mW
10 1.15 112 390 mA 1290 mW
4.7 1.02 125 440 mA 1460 mW
(I'd be very concerned about heat by now, think heat sink...)
2.2 0.82 140 550 mA 1820 mW
1.3 0.65 175 690 mA 2280 mW
(with 3 cells, I'd doubt you'd get the 700 mA, much less 
anything more)
(you'd need a boost driver or more cells and a buck driver...)
(this light is what it is afterall)
0.68 0.45 230 1000 mA 3330 mW 

If you are very adventureous, like PCC, and would like to disassemble
the lamp to do a direct subsitution, here's some reference values:

Estimated
R1 Current Power (XR-E) Lumens 
1 450 mA 1490 mW 125
0.91 490 mA 1630 mW 135
0.82 550 mA 1820 mW 140
(again, at this point, it's doubtful you'll
get decent results trying to achieve
higher current / lumen levels
with the XR-E, 3 cells, and a current
limiting resistor --- and watch that heat!!!!)

BTW R4, 16 ohms is the Current Limiting Resistor
for the low mode. If you think you can reassemble
the Coleman (PCC is this possible???) (for Hooked on 
Fenix's lower power mode), consider the 
following R4 replacements:
(since the current throught the XR-E is significantly
less, these estimates are base on a forward voltage
of 2.75 V for the XR-E and a higher total battery
voltage, ~3.93 V, for a 1.18 volt drop across R4)

Estimated
R4 Current Power (XR-E) Lumens 
47 33 mA 70 mW 9 
33 50 mA 100 mW 13
16 70 mA 200 mW 22 ("Stock")
10 120 mA 320 mW 32
6.8 170 mA 480 mW 50
(by now the Vled = 2.75 V is already no longer valid, 
but it gives you some ball park idea of output...
such are these pesky non-linear devices)
4.7 250 mA 690 mW 70

Another idea would be to use / replace the Red LED 
Current Limiting Resistors, scrape the trace to / cut
the lead to the Red LEDS, and then run a single wire 
from the now open end of one ofthe Red LED Resistor 
to create a third power mode for the XR-E using a 
resistor selected from the above table.

Might be interesting to configure this Headlamp
for:
R2or3 = 47 ohms, 8 lumens output (either of the Red LED Resistors)
R4 = 10 ohms, 32 lumens output
R1 = .82 ohms, 140 lumens output
(this high power limiter needs to be rated for 1/2 watt power
disapation, 1/4 watt is ok for the others)
that way with each increase in intensity (4X), you'd
be able to see about twice as far....

and actually I'd rewire the switch leads like so
Orig Modified
Red Low
High Med
Low High


I alos see interest in run times on this post:
Common NiMH cells (AAA / AA) are "Well Behaved" 
for about 70 to 80% of thier capacity for up to 1C 
drains. Where C is the mAH rating of the battery 
taken as a bench mark for current draw (above which
the rule of thumb changes). Thus a 1000 mAH AAA 
NiMH cell will sustain a relatively steady voltage 
(1.25 V) at a 1000 mA current draw until about 
800 mAH of capacity has been used up. I.e.
to get approximate run times, take 80% of your
battery's rated mAH rating and divide it by the
current draw, which in our trusty old (new?)
Coleman is about 350 mA.

RunTime ~ 800 mAH
--------- ~ 2.3 hours
350 mA

Seems reasonable to my experience. My 850 mAH
batteries sat for a day, thus I'll give them a 12%
discount right off the top. I skied 2.5 hours,
using the low about 30% of the time and the
high about 10% of the time, the rest of the time
going by ambient light. Thus I have

70 mA for .75 hours = 50 mAH
350 mA for .25 hours = 85 mAH
and then the 10% self discharge discount, 100 mAH
or a total discharge of about 235 mAH

Now upon recharging with my MRC "Super-Brain",
it took about 263 mAh before the delta voltage
peak was reached. Seems in the ballpark to me.

In review, a few things to take away 
from this post:

A)
There's no way you'll get this performance out
of AAA alkaline cells, at least not for the high
output mode of this light. Get some NiMH 
AAA's and a charger, in the long run you'll
experience better performance, save tons
of cash, and feel good about all that you
are doing for the environment by not
throwing away all those alkaline cells.
Again, refer to the greenbatteries article.

B)
If you're gonna (cost effectively) mod this
light, stick to manipulating the resistors
and perhaps the circuit traces / patching
a wire here or there. Adding more cells
is just going to heat up those Current
Limiting Resistors more than give you
more light.

C) 
Attempting to drive the XR-E much above
the stock 350 mA is likely to over heat
the XR-E LED with the way it is packaged in this
Coleman Headlamp. I'd expect a greatly shortened
lifetime for the LED.

In closing, I trust the tables I provided will help
anyone who cares to to make this light optimal
for their applcation, without basically re-building 
everything from scratch.

It may be some time before you hear from me again, 
but I'll be looking at those 200 to 900 lumen jobbie do's 
over at DX with the intent of putting something really
kick butt together for bicycling.


----------



## PCC (Dec 25, 2008)

:welcome: Merry Christmas!

Some answers to your questions, BikeSkiLights:

It was not designed to be disassembled like I did. I took it apart because I had a spare one laying around and I was bored. I wanted to take a look inside of it so I took it apart. Eventually, I used CA glue and glued it back together but it was done rather sloppily.

That little board that the LED sits on is the heatsink. It isn't very large so melting it is a very real possibility. Don't ask me how I know this 





That was the light that I had run the 4 AA NiMH pack with and the light was mounted on my helmet on an evening ride home so it was getting plenty of cooling air. My Duratrax charger was false peaking with these batteries until the night before that ride. Glad I caught it in time! Oh, well, ended up salvaging the components from it for other projects.

Good to know that the LED used is possibly a Q5. Initially, I was disappointed by the output of this light after comparing it to my NiteRider Minewt Mini-USB. I bought some supposedly U-bin SSC P4s and they were just as bright as this little Cree in my unscientific tests of them (wired directly to 3 AA NiMH cells! Glad I didn't  them! Tested them by doing a bounce test using my camera set to manual and recording the intensity of my ceiling - comparing relative greyness of the resulting pictures). I guess the reason the Mini-USB is brighter than this little lamp is that the Coleman is driven at a lower level and the small MOP reflector does a poor job of getting the light out there.


----------



## BikeSkiLights (Dec 25, 2008)

Why thank you PCC
and Merry Christmas to you and yours
(and to candle power users)

Oooooo..., 
Yeah PCC, with the 4 cells, you got something like this going on:


+5 V ...|..|
........|..|..I(current) ~ 1A
........|..V
........\......1.3 Ohm
......../..........Power = 1A X 1A * 1.3 Ohm 
........\................= 1.3W i.eHOT, only
......../.................rated for 1/2 Watt
........|
......._|_
.......\ /......XR-E (~3.7 V @ 1A)
.......---..........Power = 1A X 3.7V 
........|.................= 3.7 Watts
........|...........Holy sNikes!!! that's
........|...........gonna get HOT!!!
......-----
.......---
........-

...('using "."'s to pad out the ascii schematic)
...(as it seems my spaces used in the formatting)
...(of the tables inthe previous post were )
...(stripped out)

That's like three times the power disapation
for the XR-E when the lamp is in stock (1.14W)
configuration. I doubt there's that much
margin of safety in the heat sink in such
a value packed product. And you photo
shows such reality.

The AA cells is an excellent idea, but I'd
stick to using only three. And then to push
some more light out of the Coleman, I'd
look to play around with the resistor values.

In fact 'think I'm gonna pick another one up,
very soon and modify it according to my previous
post, follow PCC's pioneering disassembly /
reassembly techniques, and pass along the
results here...


----------



## degarb (Dec 26, 2008)

440 milliamp seems about right in most my modern leds. below this they seem cool, above this and sink get hot. Lumen droop too.

That number perked up my ears, though I was reading.


----------



## BikeSkiLights (Dec 28, 2008)

It's been very phoggy past couple evenings while out skiing up here in Michigan. The white LED modes been doing nothing but creating a white-out. The red LED however has some ability to bring out some contrast by which to see, as long as the Phog is not too thick. Thus for myself, I really see no reason to mod this light and I recant my precious inspiration.
At this point, I'm back to being much more interested putting money that may have gone for a second Coleman towards getting some DX "junk" to hack around with ;-)


----------



## HeadlampJunkie (Feb 17, 2010)

I understand that AAA rechargeable lithium-ion batteries are 3.6v. So can a guy put 2 AAA rechargeble lithium-ions and one dead (no charge on it) aaa in the Coleman Cree 3aaa headlamp and not burn up this unit?


----------



## PCC (Feb 18, 2010)

No, that would burn up the light for sure. The voltage would drop on 3 AAA cells to about 3.6V under load so a single Li-Ion cell would be about right.


----------



## HeadlampJunkie (Feb 23, 2010)

So would I put one 3.6v lithium aaa batts and two dumby blank aaa batts to make this work? What I'm trying to accomplish is getting a longer lasting light with the lithium-ion rechargeable battery than the 3 aaa Nimh rechargeables.


----------



## hopkins (Feb 25, 2010)

You could buy a 3 AA battery holder at Radio Shack or scavenge from a
broken RC toy car etc, attach wires, of the needed length, to it and up to the right terminals in the headlamp. 
Use three AA NimH rechargeable batteries so no problem with over voltage.

Those little aaa rechargeable cells seem to die fast in the cold. AA's in a shirt
pocket, remote battery pack, inside your jacket will stay warmer, run longer.


----------



## HeadlampJunkie (Feb 27, 2010)

I'm trying not to have to mod the flashlight casing due to convience. Except of course for the 3.6v lithium-ion 10440 batt mod. I'm wanting to use a 110440 li-ion rechargeable because I hear they last longer than NiMh rechargeable.


----------



## PCC (Feb 28, 2010)

10440 Li-Ion batteries only have about 600MAh (at least the ones I've seen on Battery Junction have 500 or 600MAh). NiMH AAA cells have 800+ MAh. You're better off running three NiMH AAA cells. If you can rewire the light for 3 10440 cells in parallel then you'll have 1800MAh. If you run a remote pack with NiMH AA cells then you'll get about 2800MAh. Then again, if you're going so far as to run a remote battery pack then why stop at AA? NiMH C cells have about 5000MAh and NiMH D cells have over 10,000MAh.


----------



## TorchBoy (Feb 28, 2010)

It's mAh not MAh. There's a factor of a billion difference.


----------



## HeadlampJunkie (Mar 3, 2010)

PCC said:


> 10440 Li-Ion batteries only have about 600MAh (at least the ones I've seen on Battery Junction have 500 or 600MAh). NiMH AAA cells have 800+ MAh. You're better off running three NiMH AAA cells. If you can rewire the light for 3 10440 cells in parallel then you'll have 1800MAh. If you run a remote pack with NiMH AA cells then you'll get about 2800MAh. Then again, if you're going so far as to run a remote battery pack then why stop at AA? NiMH C cells have about 5000MAh and NiMH D cells have over 10,000MAh.


 
I was thinking about going Li-Ion due to the fact that they last longer. But from your statement above they have less mah. But you stated above if I run them in "parallel" then I can get more run time by developing higher mah. So if I set up batteries in "series" it doesn't increase cumulative the mah? As you can tell I don't know much about batteries yet.


----------



## TorchBoy (Mar 3, 2010)

Capacity (measured in mAh - note the capitalisation) does not involve voltage, so placing three cells in series triples the voltage but the resulting battery has the same capacity. Placing cells in parallel triples the capacity with the same voltage.

Multiplying capacity by voltage will give you the energy in a battery, normally measured in mWh. Placing three cells in series or parallel will triple the energy.


----------



## HeadlampJunkie (Mar 4, 2010)

TorchBoy said:


> Capacity (measured in mAh - note the capitalisation) does not involve voltage, so placing three cells in series triples the voltage but the resulting battery has the same capacity. Placing cells in parallel triples the capacity with the same voltage.
> 
> Multiplying capacity by voltage will give you the energy in a battery, normally measured in mWh. Placing three cells in series or parallel will triple the energy.


 
So if I have a headlamp that requires 3 aaa NiMh (1.2 v 1000 mah each) rechargeable batteries to run the light and the battery pack in the light is setup in "series" then I have 3.6v output with 1000 mah capacity?

But if I try to put 3 li-ion 10440 (3.6v 600mah each)rechargeable batteries in the same battery case of the light (set up in series) then I get 10.8v output with the same 600mah capacity?

But if I set up the same 3 li-ion 10440 (3.6v 600mah each)rechargeable batteries in "parallel" in this headlamp then I get 3.6v output but with 1800 mah capacity? Is that correct?


----------



## hopkins (Mar 5, 2010)

Yes you stated that correctly headlampjunkie.

Also the lithium ion battery has a low self discharge when not being used
which is a way of saying they 'last longer'.

The good part of your headlamp dilemma is that you probably need to buy
another headlamp that has the required attributes.

Soon you may have a box full of headlamps like the rest of us.


----------



## HeadlampJunkie (Mar 6, 2010)

Hopkins, thanks for the affirmation. 

I currently have some Duraloop NiMh 800mah and Tenergyloop NiMh 1000mah AAA batteries and don't get me wrong I like them. They are fantastic. But we are always trying to do it better, right. I think I can get some 10440 Li-Ion rechargeables and modify the wiring in my flashlight to accept Li-Ion in parallel so I won't go over voltage on my light. Worth a try for 1800 mah


----------



## frasera (Jul 19, 2011)

There is a newer version that walmart only seems to carry. 108 lumen with red and blue secondary lights.

Got one, pretty decent, the high is only about as bright as my second gen maglite 2aa though, but for that price, it doesn't really matter. Weird it isn't sold on amazon though.

Not sure whats different about the emitter but the run times have increased by an hour..and there is a medium mode.

As for the thing supposedly being loose or coming out, that isn't happening anymore, the frame is two sides held together by screws, I've never seen the original but if it were loose enough to stretch it might have been one piece that allowed them to snap it in. Now it isn't comin out.

Only major flaws beside the only 45 degree tilt is that they didn't mark the battery door for rotation stop points, I fixed that with a marker.


----------



## my#1hobby (May 9, 2012)

*Re: 105 lumen 3AAA Coleman Cree XR-E headlight*



Hooked on Fenix said:


> I just bought a Coleman Max 3AAA l.e.d. headlamp from Walmart in Poway, CA for $25. The light has a Cree XR-E l.e.d. and claims 105 lumens on high. I think this is the first Cree headlight at a brick and mortar store with more than one level. It claims 6 hours on high, 20 hours on low, and 25 on the two red l.e.d.s. The two point bracket (pivot point) seems strong and does a good job of keeping the light from moving up or down on it's own. The low level seems to be about 20 lumens by my guess. Settings are adjusted by turning a dial on the right side of the bracket. It is set up pretty well. Turn it one click back towards you for red l.e.d.s to preserve night vision without going through brighter settings. Turn it away from you one click for high (when you need high, you need it to come on first), and two clicks forward for low. This U.I. should actually work best for most people. The Cree l.e.d. puts out a wide floody beam with a decent sized hotspot. There are no donut holes in the beam, though there is one or two rings if you go white wall hunting at close range. The reflector is textured with a small smooth ring directly around the l.e.d. (probably gives it better throw). I doubt the light is regulated since there's a large resistor in the battery compartment. Light doesn't seem to be waterproof (nor does it claim to be). I found out that a Jakstrap is the perfect size to replace the current headband strap (not that there's anything wrong with the one supplied). I just found it useful to be able to attach on a backup light like a Fenix P2D or P3D in case the headlight fails or the batteries die. I think this light is a step forward from the River Rock Cree headlight since it has more than one level and uses normal batteries. Next steps toward a better headlight will be making one that is waterproof with current based regulation. I bought this light because my PT Quad headlights were cracking and wearing out and I needed a replacement. I couldn't wait for Princeton Tec to update the EOS and Quad. However, if they do update, I might have to buy a new headlight (if something better doesn't come along first).



Funny, that's the same Walmart I bought my Colemax MAXX 105lm headlamp at too a few years ago and I still use it on my hikes. Dorcy has a new head lamp on their website that says it produces 120 lumen of light output in a broad beam and will be available 5/19/12. They now rate the lumen output according to the ANSI FL 1 standard so I'll probably pick one up and see what it can do.


----------



## degarb (May 11, 2012)

*Re: 105 lumen 3AAA Coleman Cree XR-E headlight*

I can paint with it for about 20-40 minutes before it is too dim to see. No lux means no detail vision.

I didn't like the xrc version either, which broke after a week. Compared to the $6 Biglots light (generic 50 lumen/watt emitter with deeper reflector), I like the Biglots light better. Just picked up a home depot $12 Rayovac 100 lumen xp-c. I like it better than the Coleman and Biglots light. I was very surpised how well the emmiter does in the shallow reflector--way better than a xp-e, I think. The Rayvac high is okay for about 6-7 foot distant white wall hunting and the low to about 3 foot (arm length). I do not believe the runtime. From my knowledge of emitters, my bet is the high will last about 1.5 hours of GOOD light, and about 5.5 hours on low of good light. 

These 100 lumen lights are a good starter lights. I still think the HP12 4 AA xpg is a better deal at $60-$80. It blows these lights away on brightness and runtime. I am not sure how I can put this $12 light to good use. Maybe as a reading light, a camping light for a kid, or in a pinch. I will need to buy some 3AAA lsd's, since it may be used once a year.


----------



## Hooked on Fenix (May 11, 2012)

*Re: 105 lumen 3AAA Coleman Cree XR-E headlight*

I got the newest version of this light a little while ago. It uses a Cree XP-E or XP-C (not sure which). It is still rated at 108 lumens, however I think my 70 lumen PT EOS is brighter. It's not a bad light, and I do like that it has high, medium, and low as well as colored beams, but there are plenty of brighter lights. I think the battery meter is a gimmick that wastes power the entire time the light is on. I don't think running this light on low will be very efficient due to the battery meter. I think the Rayovac Indestructible is better for the money, but the Coleman has a little better beam pattern for hiking. Honestly, I rarely use either light anymore for hiking myself. I'm too picky about beam patterns to use either for a night hike. Both lights are now loaner lights.


----------

