# Upgrade a MagLED to SSC P4 – a Tutorial with pictures



## Cydonia (Jun 13, 2007)

This has got to be the best price to performance ratio upgrade you can do with a Maglite.

SSC Seoul P4 (U-bin) SW0 Bare Emitter $6.95US from DealExtreme 
here with Worldwide free shipping. *(Update: SSC P4 now only $5.12 at DX)*


So for only $6.95 US from DealExtreme you can just about double the output from your feeble MagLED module. *(Update: SSC P4 now only $5.12 at DX)*
Sure it still dims down 50% after a while... but while dim it is as bright as a stock MagLED in the first minutes of operation! 


Tools I used: (You can improvise with others)

Steady hand and patience (essential)
soldering iron – I used an old variable heat GE iron
tweezers
forceps (locking)
small flat blade screwdriver
sharp pointed wire cutters
Arctic Alumina Expoxy (For electrical isolation of the SSC P4’s + base)
toothpicks to mix Arctic Alumina Epoxy
hammer
14 gauge copper wire (a few inches/cm)
barbell plate (for hammering the copper wire flat)
red sharpie marker
Q tips and isopropyl alcohol
Maglite to hold the MagLED module while you work on it!
Step 1: Place MagLED into Maglite.

Step 2: Mark one side of the LED and MagLED metal case with red marker – determine polarity with digital volt meter while LED is running. (or see step 13 if you don’t have a meter)

Step 3: Use small flat blade screwdriver to loosen original LED from MagLED. The white thermal paste they use is very soft. Should only take a few seconds to pry the LED up and away. 

Step 4: Clean away all the old white paste residue with a small flat blade screwdriver. Make sure none of the white crumbs fall into the LED pin sockets!

Step 5: Q tip and alcohol away any film of white thermal paste left on MagLED


Step 6: Take a short 1/4 inch (6mm or so) piece of solid copper wire and hammer it flat on a hard smooth clean metal surface. A barbell plate worked well. Hammer the wire flat and keep checking that it has flattened out to the width of the leads on the LED you removed from the MagLED. 

Step 7: When the copper pieces are flat to the right thickness and width as the leads on the LED you removed, use tweezers or forceps to plug the new copper leads into the MagLED. They go in a long way, about 4mm I guess (3/16 maybe).

Step 8: When both copper pieces are stood up in the MagLED module, mark them with a red marker where they are flush with the edge of the magLED module. You want the new copper tabs to be almost lost down inside the sockets. 

Step 9: Remove copper tabs and cut them where you marked them.

Step 10: Semi-Optional Step – you can then place the copper tabs back into the MagLED module, checking that they fit well, are of even height and flushness with the edge of the module metal sides. If not, trip again, or hammer flat a new piece of copper if too much is trimmed off.

Step 11: Take the SSC P4 and find the side that has the tiny tab with a cut out crescent shape. That’s the Cathode or negative side. Mark it black if you want. Mark the other side red.

Step 12: Take the SSC P4 LED with tweezers and cut off the long leads. Cut them off so that only a short piece remains. You’ll end up an SSC P4 LED with only 4 stumps (the other 2 stumps were there all along, the polarity marker tabs). 

Step 13: Take the old Luxeon LED that you removed. It should be marked on one side in red (or whatever color you marker you had). The MagLED module is also marked in the same color on the corresponding side. Now apply 3v from 2 batteries in a holder to the Luxeon LED on its own. Determine polarity this way. The marked side of the MagLED will be same as the LED.

Step 14: Clamp a copper tab in forceps and place on the table. Clean the copper with alcohol and Q tip to remove any oils from handling. Apply a thin solder film on the tip edges and sides of the copper tab. Repeat with the other copper tab.

Step 15: Clamp the SSC P4 with forceps in such a way that it is its on edge, with the metal base facing towards you. With soldering iron ready, and a copper tab held with tweezers, place the copper tab against the SSC P4. The copper tab fits perfectly against the plastic LED body, below the short metal tab stumps.
The copper tab must be square to the SSC body, not crooked 
One quick motion of the soldering iron deposits a piece of solder between the copper and the SSC tabs.

Step 16: Repeat with the other side.

Step 17: Noting the SSC polarity, insert the new LED onto the MagLED. Check it aligns. If not, some minor bending should suffice. 

Step 18: Once it has been confirmed that the new SSC and its copper tabs are spaced correctly for the MagLED slots, and that the copper leads are oriented correctly in both axis…

Step 19: Mix the Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive 

Step 20: With the new SSC LED aligned and started in the slots, apply the Arctic Alumina with a toothpick into the gap between the SSC and MagLED. Use small metal flat blade screwdriver to alternately press down the new SSC on each side. Slowly press the new SSC into place once the Arctic Alumina is underneath. Use a little paste at first, you can always add more after if it appears more is needed. Although, you only have a few minutes to work with!

[FONT=&quot]With some luck all will be well! Before the Arctic Alumina sets… load up the Maglite with batteries and test the new MagLED. If it doesn’t light up, for whatever reason, most probably a poor connection with the new copper tabs, then you have just destroyed the MagLED circuitry! Without a load attached, the circuit dies. Game Over.

Is it worth it? Yes. It turns the MagLED into a much more potent option. 
And it is not a permanent mod that ruins the Maglite itself. Future upgrades are assured as well. 
Just repeat this LED swap procedure later on with the next great LED! 

= = = = = = = = 
































































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## nanotech17 (Jun 14, 2007)

Thanks for the info-knowledge.
That is one cool mode


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## ace0001a (Jun 14, 2007)

Neat


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## wintermute (Jul 15, 2007)

Isn't the heatsinking capacity of the MagLED atrocious?? Couldn't there really be some issues with overheating when running 1000mA in this type of setup.


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## 2xTrinity (Jul 15, 2007)

wintermute said:


> Isn't the heatsinking capacity of the MagLED atrocious?? Couldn't there really be some issues with overheating when running 1000mA in this type of setup.


The heatsinking in the maglite itself is terrible, but unlike the aftermarket alternatives, the MagLED at least has thermal feedback -- it will dim itself in response to heat and push lower current if it gets ridiculously hot. For "C" size maglites, one option is to get Download's MagCTower which replaces the plastic bulb-holder piece with an anodized aluminum part designed to transfer heat to the outside of the light. Using the magLED with this part installed, the bulb will not get as hot, and as a result will stay at maximum output for much longer.

I am using the MagCTower both with my Terralux drop-in in a 3C mag, and in a 2C ROP incan, in order to retain cam focusing action on both (If focusing is not required, there are easier options -- with LEDs I can simply use a static heatsink, with incan I can use a fixed bulb-holder).


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## johnny13oi (Jul 16, 2007)

Do all MagLED modules die if there is no load connected? Is this true with the 2D MagLED? I am afraid I might not get it the first time and fry it. Thanks. And I tried searching but can this also be done with a Edison Opto klc8? And if yes, would I have to isolate the slug?


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## johnny13oi (Jul 21, 2007)

Oh and is there any quick way of telling if the slug is completely isolated or how can you make sure that it is completely isolated?


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## divine (Jan 31, 2008)

Has anyone done a runtime test on a setup like this?


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## Gunner12 (Jan 31, 2008)

Should be similar to the stock MagLED.


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## copperfox (Feb 1, 2008)

I have just done a couple of these mods, and I'd like to reiterate some points that Cydonia made.

• As Cydonia said, patience is essential; so don't hurry.

• Be sure to form your copper tabs to be as close in size and shape as the leads coming off of the luxeon emitter you are replacing. If they are too long, the emitter won't insert all the way. If they are too fat or too thick, the emitter won't go in easily (or at all). I used a piece of 150 (perhaps 100) grit sandpaper to wear them down to the correct size and thickness. It IS possible to shorten the copper tabs once you have already soldered them to the emitter; just use needle nose pliers and be gentle (the copper bends easily when it gets that thin).

• As shown in the pictures, cut and bend the leads of the SSC emitter so that the copper tab can fit snugly underneath it, right up against the black plastic emitter base. 

• Keep your soldering tip clean. A dirty/oxidized tip is a real pain to work with and will make this job quite frustrating. A clean tip makes all the difference. Trust me.

• Tin (melt solder onto) the shortened anode and cathode on the emitter as well as the copper tabs SEPARATELY before trying to join the pieces. The copper will likely take slightly more heat in order to get the solder flowing, and you don't want to submit the emitter's plastic base to any more heat than necessary. Tin the two sides separately, then join them by melting the solder together.

• The red sharpie really is invaluable.

• If you squirt too much arctic alumina (either part A or B) out of the syringe, it is possible to suck some back into the tube by holding the tip of the syringe directly on the glob of goo and then pulling back on the plunger gently. This helps reduce waste (and saves you money).


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## Stereodude (Mar 10, 2008)

I just did this tonight on my 4D MagLED drop-in. I reused the leads from the Luxeon that was in the original drop-in instead of making new ones out of copper. I just broke them off and soldered them to the leads of the SSC P4.


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## Stereodude (Mar 11, 2008)

johnny13oi said:


> Oh and is there any quick way of telling if the slug is completely isolated or how can you make sure that it is completely isolated?


I found that the slug on the bottom of the SSC was shorting out to the metal below it despite using Arctic Silver Alumina "Epoxy" under the LED. I guess I pressed too hard.  So, I took the LED out, scraped off all the epoxy before it was completely hard, and then put a very thin layer of the epoxy over the metal body. Once that dried I used a normal thermal compound and put the LED back in.

Specifically to your questions, if you have a multimeter you can check once you put the LED in by measuring between the body of the drop-in and each of the leads on the LED. You should have isolation between the positive side, and have continuity between the negative side and the metal body. Alternatively you can check for continuity between the two leads of the LED.


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## Buck91 (Mar 11, 2008)

Is it necessary to use the arctic alumina _adhesive_ to insulate the led? I have some arctic alumina cermique which is also electrically inslative, but lacks the adhesive functions. Would this work, or will it bleed out or provide lesser insulation?


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## Stereodude (Mar 11, 2008)

Buck91 said:


> Is it necessary to use the arctic alumina _adhesive_ to insulate the led? I have some arctic alumina cermique which is also electrically inslative, but lacks the adhesive functions. Would this work, or will it bleed out or provide lesser insulation?


The problem with both is that you can get metal to metal contact if you put the LED on when they are wet. I had to put a very thin layer of the epoxy down and let it cure so I could make sure I would not get metal to metal contact. Obviously the Ceramique doesn't get hard, so that wouldn't work in my case.


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## Buck91 (Mar 12, 2008)

Yes, that does make sense. Picked some up after class anyhow, so once I get around to picking up some 14ga this should make a nice project for a stormy March (or april!) night.


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## minitech17 (Mar 12, 2008)

there is one SSC P4 Mag 2D module for sale here -
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=176186


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## copperfox (Mar 12, 2008)

I think 16 gauge solid will work too. When I flatten my 14g with a hammer, it widens quite a bit, and I end up filing it with sandpaper anyway. Save yourself a couple cents and a little bit of work with the 16g.


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## Stereodude (Mar 12, 2008)

minitech17 said:


> there is one SSC P4 Mag 2D module for sale here -
> http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=176186


That is not what this thread is about. We're talking about swapping the emitter on these.


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## Cydonia (Mar 12, 2008)

*Upgrade MagLED with SSC P4*

Nice to see others have done this mod too!
I have these 2 upgraded MagLED's in 4C Mag's with UCL lens. The 4th cell is a dummy when using alkalines. But I can put in 4 NiCd or NiMh C's to slightly overdrive the 3 cell MagLED's. I have Download C Towers as heatsinks. The MagLED's never dim and run at full power always. They are still, to this day, my brightest LED lights  I'll upgrade the MagLED's again one day to whatever is the best and brightest.


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## Bjalf (Apr 3, 2008)

I just did this mod on two MagLEDs, one 2D and one 4C. Originally, the 2D was quite a bit dimmer than the 4C, and noticeably more yellowish. I did the 2D first, and afterwards the modded 2D was much brighter than the original 4C. After the mod, the modded 4C is again brighter than the modded 2D, but not by much. The difference in light output between the two were much more pronounced before the mod than it is after. I'm starting to wonder if the original 2D Luxeon was faulty. And I'm definitely starting to regret not taking any beamshots. :sigh:

I'm quite happy with the improved brightness, but I feel that the emitter is now placed 1.3mm - 1.7mm too deep. When I focus to increase throw, there's a "sweet spot", but if I continue to twist, the beam sort of "overfocuses" and starts to spread again. And I feel there could be more (un)focus at the wide end. To rectify this, I will try to seat the LED module less deep. When the module is placed loosely in the socket, there's a 2.2mm - 2.3mm gap that is closed by the fastening ring, so some sort of shim or washer might do the trick.

Other notes:
- Some kind of magnifying glasses are quite useful for this job. I used some cheap plastic thingamajig that I put on the head like some sort of demented sunshade, with cheap plastic lenses. Very useful, though.
- If you want to clean away absolutely all traces of the old thermal paste crud, then use ArctiClean. Much more efficient than alcohol. Check out http://arcticsilver.com/arcticlean.htm
- The polarity of the MagLED metal case is marked on the plastic insert at the bottom. There's a flat section towards the positive side of the LED, and there's also a "+" mark embedded in the plastic. Well, at least on both of mine.
- When I flattened 14g wire it ended up about twice as wide as needed, so 16g would probably have been enough.
- I used a 12W soldering iron. It was big enough for this job.
- The tabs on the old LED were 7.3mm long.
- I cut out an 8mm circle from a small transistor mica insulator sheet to completely isolate the SSC P4 slug. The emitter on the new LED is 0.2mm - 0.3mm lower than the old one, and the mica sheet is less than 0.1 mm thick.
- Finally, I used Lens Cleaner and Lens Tissue to clean the inevitable dust and fingerprints off of the LED dome.


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## Stereodude (Apr 26, 2008)

Just as a FYI. The + side of the module is marked in the plastic on the bottom, so you don't have to mess with the sharpie and finding the + side with a meter while it's turned on and marking the LED and housing.


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## Cydonia (Apr 26, 2008)

Stereodude said:


> Just as a FYI. The + side of the module is marked in the plastic on the bottom, so you don't have to mess with the sharpie and finding the + side with a meter while it's turned on and marking the LED and housing.




Yep, you guys are right... there is a little "+" in the plastic edge. Never even noticed it till now:tinfoil: (to be fair, I would still have tested to make sure polarity was correct... I was paranoid about killing one of those MagLED modules... they cost darn near $30 with taxes up here in Canada  )


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## Swagg (Apr 28, 2008)

Where is the best place to acquire:

Arctic Alumina Expoxy (For electrical isolation of the SSC P4’s + base)

14 gauge copper wire (a few inches/cm)


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## Buck91 (Apr 29, 2008)

I pirated some solid wire from an old stash, dont know where to pick up new. But the arctic alumina can be found from any computer builders store or online (I think fenix store has it now).


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## copperfox (Apr 29, 2008)

I bought my AA adhesive here: link

I bought my copper wire at Home Depot; it is sold by the foot.


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## Stereodude (Jun 26, 2008)

Bump for getting the pictures rehosted in the first post.


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## Buck91 (Jun 26, 2008)

I got the pictures archived on my laptop. PM me with your email and I'll send them out.


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## Stereodude (Jun 26, 2008)

Here are the pictures missing from the first post:


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## metlarules (Dec 18, 2008)

Anyone do one of these with the high cri SSC with the 4000k color temp?


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## jasonck08 (Dec 21, 2008)

I just got my SSC P4's in the mail today. I'm quite new to modding... How can you tell the polarity of the bare SSC P4. I can see the + on the magLED itself....


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## Tim Carleton (Dec 22, 2008)

jasonck08 said:


> I just got my SSC P4's in the mail today. I'm quite new to modding... How can you tell the polarity of the bare SSC P4. I can see the + on the magLED itself....




the side that one lead has a hole in it is negative.... one other thing I look at on the P4's and P7's is the wires coming off of the emitter inside the dome head towards the negative side.


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## Stereodude (Dec 22, 2008)

Tim Carleton said:


> the side that one lead has a hole in it is negative.... one other thing I look at on the P4's and P7's is the wires coming off of the emitter inside the dome head towards the negative side.


Correct, one side has a notch in the short lead. That is the negative side.


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## zhouling (Dec 23, 2008)

jasonck08 said:


> I just got my SSC P4's in the mail today. I'm quite new to modding... How can you tell the polarity of the bare SSC P4. I can see the + on the magLED itself....



attach a current limit source to the LED,then you can tell..


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## cool69rtcharger (Dec 28, 2008)

Cydonia said:


> [FONT=&quot]With some luck all will be well! Before the Arctic Alumina sets… load up the Maglite with batteries and test the new MagLED. If it doesn’t light up, for whatever reason, most probably a poor connection with the new copper tabs, then you have just destroyed the MagLED circuitry! Without a load attached, the circuit dies. Game Over.
> 
> [/FONT]



Does anyone know if this is true or not? I know that my maglite LED came apart when it was dropped (took a few times of turning on and off before i even saw that the LED was out of it) and when i put it back together it wasn't as bright, but still did work. So would this mod be pointless on this now dimmed Maglite LED bulb?


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## Cydonia (Dec 28, 2008)

cool69rtcharger said:


> Does anyone know if this is true or not? I know that my maglite LED came apart when it was dropped (took a few times of turning on and off before i even saw that the LED was out of it) and when i put it back together it wasn't as bright, but still did work. So would this mod be pointless on this now dimmed Maglite LED bulb?




You must have a 2 cell MagLED right? If so... The LED is dim because it is being direct driven. The driver has died. It *sounds like* this is what has happened... the LED is now receiving 3v direct drive from the 2 cells.
*If* this is what has indeed happened... try your MagLED in a 3 cell light. The LED will be direct driven from 3 cells and will be bright but not regulated. Being direct driven it will be quite efficient and slowly dim over many hours...

That is the major weakness with MagLED's. One drop and the LED comes away from the module. Or the solder join with a modded MagLED and an SSC P4 breaks. Then the driver circuit fries itself. Solution? *Epoxy*. Clean around the LED and metal module with alcohol and then put epoxy around the LED so it won't come off. Complicates future LED upgrades though...


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## cool69rtcharger (Dec 28, 2008)

ya it is a 2D light well i guess that tells me every thing i needed to know. thanks for the help.


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## [email protected] (Dec 29, 2008)

Cydonia said:


> That is the major weakness with MagLED's. One drop and the LED comes away from the module. Or the solder join with a modded MagLED and an SSC P4 breaks. Then the driver circuit fries itself



Kinda' goes against all that Maglite marketing hype about their LED lights being indestructible, while they don't fail per say a dead regulation circuit would certainly ruin your day, especially when expecting some decent Lumen output eh? 

Despite my initial reservations concerning this cheap MagLED upgrade... I'm getting the itch to give it a go (just for the hell of it) 

I should probably track down a Mag C-tower too just to maximize my (time) investment :thumbsup:


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## Buck91 (Dec 29, 2008)

I'm happy with my 3D Seoul'ed MagLED. My go-to light for truck-stuck-in-the-mud type issues, and used to be for many mopre until I got my Fenix (just easier to carry and use for a lot of things).

If it wasn't for the alkaline cells it runs off of, it would be ideal as a vehical light.


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## Cydonia (Dec 29, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Kinda' goes against all that Maglite marketing hype about their LED lights being indestructible, while they don't fail per say a dead regulation circuit would certainly ruin your day, especially when expecting some decent Lumen output eh?



That's right. Often times an "improvement" is actually a retrograde motion *back* into fragility. "Progress" often works this way. Opens up many failure modes that didn't exist before. (A lot of these high tech lights are actually more fragile than a cheap plastic $5 light with a bulb. but that's another topic!) You have to use Artcic Alumina thermal epoxy for the LED and then use additional epoxy around the sides of the LED so it doesn't come off.


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## PCC (Dec 30, 2008)

I guess I got lucky when I did my upgrade. I put the new emitter in with the soldered on tabs and I missed the slot inside the can. Hit the button twice quickly to test if it was working and nothing. I popped the LED out and back in again, noting that one of the tabs was not pointing straight down so I tried again, taking care to line up the tabs the second time, and it worked. Since I have a lot more light coming out the front of my MagLite I have to guess that I didn't fry the electronics of this unit.


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## Buck91 (Dec 30, 2008)

yeah, when I tested mine with a quick tap on the button I got no light. Careful re-soldering and re-expoying of the emitter fixed the issue.

On a note about the fragility: Last night I was a bit bored so I mixed up a tid bit of AA expoxy and epoxied around the emitter to more securely affix it to the slug. I would rate it as a B+ grade effort, but even as such it just _looks_ better not to mention the increased toughness...


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## cmendoza (Jan 16, 2010)

Hey, Does anyone know approximately how many lumens you get with the P4 in this mod with a 2D(or 2C in my case).

Thanks!


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## PCC (Jan 16, 2010)

I would estimate around 140 lumens, depending on the bin of the LED you use. I used a U-bin and it roughly matches my Rebel MagLED which some have reported puts out 140 lumens. A U3-bin would put out a few more lumens than that, say 160 lumens?


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## Buck91 (Jan 17, 2010)

I couldnt put an honest number on it, but my magled with U2SV0H led is very bright (and throws fantastic). Definately brighter than any of my other lights (except my Cateye Triple shot with 3 U2SW0H leds!).

Significantly outshines my:
Fenix L1Tv2.0
SF G2 incan
Victorinox 2AA with P4 U2SV0H
Vic 2aa with P4 U2SW0I
Quark Mini AA neutral
SF E2L outdoorsman

Just off hand shining at the green wall of my room.

Just a quick edit: This is only initially. After even a short period the electronics will cut back the current to regulate tempurature.


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## copperfox (Jan 17, 2010)

I've done this mod about 4 times using SSC P4 emitters. Has anybody done this using the new xp-e or xp-g? I imagine it would be more difficult to solder to the smaller emitter. I suppose you would have to bend the copper legs to contact the bottom of the emitter's PCB. Anyone? :candle:


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## cmendoza (Jan 29, 2010)

Also interested to know if this has been done with a cree!


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## Lynx_Arc (Jan 29, 2010)

cmendoza said:


> Also interested to know if this has been done with a cree!



unless the cree is similar in focus to a luxeon I doubt it would be useful in lights that use the dropin.


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## icpd30 (Jan 29, 2010)

This is a great thread and tutorial. Makes me think even I, a noob to CPF and terrible worker-of-the-soldering-iron, could get this done. I've got a few old Mags to try on.


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## Buck91 (Jan 29, 2010)

Its not too tricky, just need to be careful and get the legs tacked on well.

One thing I did to help durability was to use some extra AA epoxy to form up around the base of the SSC P4. Can't really get any worse heat tranfer than we already have and hopefully it'll keep the led (or soldered joints) from popping loose!


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## CampingLED (Jan 31, 2010)

Lynx_Arc said:


> unless the cree is similar in focus to a luxeon I doubt it would be useful in lights that use the dropin.


 
I still use my modded MagLED with SSC P4 U-bin in my 3D today. If I had a spare MagLED I would have tried the XP-E or G mod already. I do however have a sanded down Mag reflector in my 2D with a star XR-E on it and with the right placement in the reflector the beam is well focused.

My feeling is that whatever LED you put on the MagLED you can still focus it well in the standard Maglight by turning the head and finding the optimum focus point.


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## PCC (May 25, 2010)

How about a Cree XP-G R4 mounted on an 8mm board?


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## Buck91 (May 25, 2010)

Very cool. Doesn't look like it in the photo, but any chance a 10mm would work?


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## PCC (May 26, 2010)

With the 8mm star board it's a tight fit. The board has four notches in it in a cloverleaf configuration (you can see two in my picture, the leads coming up from the circuit board cover the remaining two) and I was careful to line up two of the notches with the openings for the leads on the MagLED can. If you take the 10mm board and cut off 1.5mm from opposing sides you can probably get away with it but the larger board will sit on the flanges meaning that you will have a thick blob of AA between the board and the can. This was done just like you would if you were installing a P4 but instead of soldering the flat copper pieces to the LED leads I soldered them to 24g wire and soldered the wire to the contacts on the star. I checked for continuity between the positive side and the can to make sure that I didn't have a short before powering it on. I'm glad I did as the solder connection was touching the can. I raised it up a bit until I wasn't getting continuity between the two and then had to take my Dremel to it to knock it down a bit.

The hotspot, when focused to the tightest beam I can get, is pretty big compared to the Luxeon or even a Seoul P4 but it is brighter to my eyes. Unfortunately, I don't have a second 2D MagLite that I can compare my other 2-cell MagLED module (with P4 U-bin) against this one. I'll post tomorrow how it compares in brightness to my 2D Rebel MagLED. The P4 modded MagLED module was roughly equivalent in brightness to the Rebel MagLED but it ever so slightly edged it out in a bounce test to my eyes. I'll try the comparison tonight and post the results tomorrow.


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## PCC (May 26, 2010)

Okay, I couldn't wait. I pulled the 2D Rebel MagLED module from my 2AA Mini-MagLED and put it back into my 2D Rebel MagLED. I then locked myself in my closet and did some quick bounce tests. The XP-G R4 is definitely brighter than the Rebel 90 in this test. The hotspot from the older reflector is twice the size as the hotspot from the deeper Rebel MagLED and the result is that the Rebel will throw better. I held the deeper reflector over the XP-G MagLED module and the hotspot was about the same size as it was with the Rebel module when focused so that tells me that the deeper reflector will work well with the XP-G as well.

The best part is that the older MagLED module does not draw as much current from the batteries and, with this mod, makes more light from what it does pull. The 2D Rebel MagLED is drawing a little more than 1650mA at the tail cap and the older 2D MagLED module pulls a little more than 850mA on 2D NiMH cells when first turned on. That means that I should get almost twice the run times on this compared to my newer, not so bright, 2D Rebel MagLED. I can't wait until the S2 bins are available...


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## Stereodude (May 26, 2010)

How did you fabricate the leads for the Cree LED?


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## PCC (May 27, 2010)

All I did was to flatten some solid core copper wire like in the original post but then I soldered some 24g wire to it to make contact with the contact pads on the stars. It kind of looks like a tiny candy cane with the straight part flattened out at an angle.

In hindsight, I probably could have just flattened the multi-strand 24g wire and soldered it flat and used that instead?


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## barlowrs (Nov 26, 2011)

Hello, sorry to revive an old thread, but I am in need of your expertise here. I am trying to do this mod, however, my MagLED doesn’t seem to have the same contacts as the one in this write-up. Here is a pic of what it looks like after the LED was removed. I tried to figure out what was ground and what wasn’t by checking continuity, however, it appears that EVERYTHING is connected to ground (the flashlight body). I checked all three of those dark brown pads, as well as the metal shell around the white pad, and they all seem to be connected to the ground. 

Please help. I have the LED to wire back up, I just have no idea how to connect it.

Thanks!


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## Lynx_Arc (Nov 27, 2011)

barlowrs said:


> Hello, sorry to revive an old thread, but I am in need of your expertise here. I am trying to do this mod, however, my MagLED doesn’t seem to have the same contacts as the one in this write-up. Here is a pic of what it looks like after the LED was removed. I tried to figure out what was ground and what wasn’t by checking continuity, however, it appears that EVERYTHING is connected to ground (the flashlight body). I checked all three of those dark brown pads, as well as the metal shell around the white pad, and they all seem to be connected to the ground.
> 
> Please help. I have the LED to wire back up, I just have no idea how to connect it.
> 
> Thanks!


I am not sure but it looks like you may have to pull the metal top disc out of the base.


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## JamisonM (Nov 28, 2011)

barlowrs said:


> Hello, sorry to revive an old thread, but I am in need of your expertise here. I am trying to do this mod, however, my MagLED doesn’t seem to have the same contacts as the one in this write-up. Here is a pic of what it looks like after the LED was removed. I tried to figure out what was ground and what wasn’t by checking continuity, however, it appears that EVERYTHING is connected to ground (the flashlight body). I checked all three of those dark brown pads, as well as the metal shell around the white pad, and they all seem to be connected to the ground.
> 
> Please help. I have the LED to wire back up, I just have no idea how to connect it.
> 
> Thanks!


Barlowrs, take a look at the luxeon rebel datasheet. That should tell you what you need to know to get the LED back on.


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