# CNC Router Table



## PEU

I know this is way beyond flashlights... but at least is machine related /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

With a friend I'm building a CNC Router table, here are the first prototype photos: (not completed yet)



















My question is: anyone tried building something like this? any advise is welcomed since we're still on the drawing board. 

My friend built a rough working prototype and rought as it is, it works very nice, so we decided to take the next step and model a new one from scratch /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Thanks


Pablo


----------



## idleprocess

Looks like you're planning on lead screws (ACME? Ball screw?) for positioning. Usually a good choice; although depending on what kind of chips the router produces, you might want some protection for the lower threads.

What are the approximate dimensions of this thing?

Are you going to have a single drive motor for the two lower driveshafts?


----------



## tvodrd

I suspect the lead screw for the uprights will operate through a nut on the crossbar, between the uprights in the base. Pablo, I have built similar mechanisms over the years and recommend using steel for the structure as it is ~3X as stiff (Young's modulus) as aluminum, meaning it will deflect less under load, and tolerate vibration better. Try to get as much length for your linear bearings as possible, which will also improve stiffness.

Larry


----------



## PEU

idleprocess: The table is about 500mm x 500mm and yes it will use leadscrews with stepper motors, not drawn yet but the holes are already there, along with the motors. The bridge is moved by the stepper motor that runs under the table

Larry: I was planing on using red brass for the bearings, but as time advances I like more and more the linear bearing idea, bad thing is that they are expensive.

The movement bars (sliding bars?) are hardened chromed steel and the rest is aluminum. With this config SW says the whole setup weights 34.9kg (~77lbs) if I replace AL with steel say for example 1040, the weight will go to around 80kg for sure.

We have one concern regarding the bridge (y & z movement) and its the power of the motor to move it, an alternative is to fix the bridge and use a movable base half the size of the actual one. Roland uses this concept for their CNC Routers

I plan to use the machine with aluminum, plastics and wood. And to route PCBs /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


Here is the latest render:






Thanks


Pablo


----------



## DSpeck

Pablo, have a look on eBay for the various plans and routers available. There are lots of them, and you can get a good idea of what would work and what wouldn't. I have been looking and drooling over the various parts and complete units (mostly routers and mills), but don't have the cash to get them...yet. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


----------



## PEU

Hey Doug, I feel capable of doing the plans myself, but since this is my 1st attempt I'm looking for some insider info. I surelly looked at the plans being sold on ebay as well as the built routers on sale too. 

From the photos I can extract a lot of usefull info, but for example Larry advise on long lineal bearings was new to me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

There is a german unit on sale (ebay link) which I studied a lot /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Also most of the ideas came from this one: penguin CNC 

Maybe a sound idea is to look for a yahoo group or something like that about CNC router tables, there should be one out there. 

Thanks


Pablo


----------



## tvodrd

Pablo,

When I said "linear bearing," I didn't necessarily mean the recirculating ball type. Bearing bronze/bushings will be fine! What I meant was use as much L/D (length divided by diameter) as is practical for you. For instance, your Y-axis looks pretty good in that respect. You might consider off-the-shelf commercial bushings.

Larry


----------



## PEU

Ok Larry calibrated red bronze bushings (not brass /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif ) is what I can find here easily and most important not expensive, what I can't find online is a simple way to compute the needed torque to start the movement of the YZ bridge given it moves on rails and weights xxx kilos.

I barely recall this was a study problem in the phisics class in my technical school /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif The problem is it was 20 years ago /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif and I drinked a lot of red wine in between /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy23.gif


Pablo


----------



## tvodrd

Pablo,

I've bought under-torque moters on more than one occasion. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Steppers can be tricky, especially when you run them open loop!! (No displacement feedback, and encoders can be pricey!)For sources for loading calcs, check the motor manufacturers. You will need to input your desired acceleration, lead screw pitch, mass you are moving and a friction estimate. Take the results and size your motor at least 1 size larger! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif (Better yet, two sizes larger. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif ) I'm closer to 30 years outta college, and have one sole-surviving braincell. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Larry


----------



## NewBie

PEU,

So, how are you going to deal with backlash in your setup, pre-load spring, or other mechanism?


----------



## PEU

Im not familiar with the term backslash, what does it mean? (babelfish is no help)

Do you refer to end of run stops?


Pablo


----------



## gadget_lover

Backlash is the amount of play in the leadscrew. On your lathe, it's evident in the amount of movement of the handwheel before the compound starts to move when you reverse directions.

Daniel


----------



## PEU

OK, thanks Daniel, well it depends on how much money I want to spend on the leadscrews (less is best /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif ) there are leadscrews with zero backslash nuts, but they are somewhat expensive, I found many @ ebay but what kills me is shipping to Argentina, so I will have to deal with the problem the best possible way. I did not researched fully the local providers and most important their prices. 

I will know in the following weeks.

Thanks


Pablo


----------



## DSpeck

Looking at your setup, I see that your linear rails are exposed. You may get better results from putting them underneath the table, so they don't get swarf (filings) in them, which will throw off the accuracy. You just need to increase the height of the vertical members of the gantry to compensate. Since you have 2 pairs of rails, stability is good, so now you just have to protect them. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif


----------



## Iron_Man

Use Mach2 for software and Gecko drives for drivers.

Les


----------



## PEU

Well I changed the design a lot, it will use THK Caged Ball Linear Motion Guide /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

And since I was introduced to the concept of backslash (damn, these things are expensive), it will also use zero backslash ballscrews (fighting for them at ebay)

For the Z axis it will probably use a THK actuator (also fighting for it at ebay)

wish me luck with the bids /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


Pablo


----------



## PEU

Well, some advances in the redesign. Since Newbie injected me with the zero backslash virus /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I purchased 3 NSK ballscrews for around $220, pretty expensive for 3 screws right? 

This is the render of the x axis:






The X axis will move along the guides, the Y bridge will be fixed and moving along it the movable Z axis

Estimated usable space will be: x: 330mm, Y: 200mm Z: 100mm

If you are interested in this kind of project, there is a great forum about them: www.cnczone.com which I'm reading like a madman /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif (pretty much like CPF /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crackup.gif )

Pablo


----------



## PEU

The baby is walking, not finished but advancing 













Plotting a star: http://peu.net/mods/estrella.avi

1st Accuracy measurement: http://peu.net/mods/y-axis-1inch.avi


:wave: 

Pablo


----------



## HarryN

That is really great work. Just a suggestion - you have a great tool there, and it will take almost no time for chips to ruin the guides and bearings. You might want to consider to have an air nozzle or something to keep the chips from getting into the mechanism.


----------



## PEU

Hi Harry,

you are 100% right, part of the to do is using way covers like these: http://www.gortite.com/waycover.htm

Just calibrated and re-measured : http://peu.net/mods/y-axis2.avi 

Ordered one inch travel, measured one inch, back and forth!. Now I need a better instrument 


Pablo


----------



## Rothrandir

dang poo, i'm jealous!

dare i ask what the parts cost came up to? 

*awesome* work!


----------



## PEU

Little Update:















Pablo


----------



## PEU

http://peu.net/mods/3axis.avi 

:drunk:


Pablo


----------



## chimo

Very nice!!! :rock: Thanks for the update!

Paul


----------



## jtice

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet !

This is a really kickass project Pablo !!!! :thumbsup:

Look forward to more progress !

~John


----------



## tvodrd

Too cool Pablo!

Btw, I took my Neoca to the Ghost Mountain CPF get-together. 

Larry


----------



## PEU

Thanks all!

Larry, do ppl liked it? besides Don and Wayne no one in the get together saw one in person.


Since I still dont have way covers to protected them from the dust, I did this nice spirograph plot:

http://peu.net/mods/spiroplot.avi (8mb divx)
(Compressd using the latest divx6 codec, upgrade your codecs from www.divx.com if the video locks)


Pablo


----------



## PEU

I did this today:






Routed 5mm depth and then routed all the way to cut the perimeter. The wood is quebracho.

Cutting speed was 500mm/min, plunge rate: 1mm and rapids 3000mm/min

When machine is finished cutting speed should be more than 1500mm/min

:buddies: 


Pablo


----------



## PEU

I just finished this:









Pablo


----------



## [email protected]

:wow: :goodjob:


----------



## jtice

I am GRRRREEEEEEEEEEENNNNN with envy !!!!
:green::green::green::green::green::green::green::green::green::green:

Kick But Pablo !!!!!!!!

~John


----------



## Beamhead

........ 

*Nice!*​


----------



## Rothrandir




----------



## jashhash

Thats some crazy home brew engineering. Where did you get the circuit boards for this?


----------



## PEU

I bought the drivers (3 x PMDX-150) and the parallel optoisolated breakout board (PMDX-122) at www.pmdx.com.


Pablo


----------



## HarryN

This is getting reallllly neat. Can that machine Al as well ?


----------



## PEU

Yes it can:










but I still don't have the proper Z axis, so I'm mostly cutting wood for fun these days 


Pablo


----------



## HarryN

Neat Pablo. There are some nice wood bits that can be used for Al cutting as well. I bought some for use on gadget lovers mill - worked very well.

Z axis will make you very happy.


----------



## PEU

Update:

I finished the mechanical part of the router, now I need to finish the control box, im delaying it for no reason for the last 2 months...   












Photos show the table calibration, its level to 0.02mm across it whole surface :huh: 

And the axis movements repeat to 0.01mm tested without load 


Pablo


----------



## gadget_lover

You do some fine work there Pablo. I like the way you built the slotted table. Very ingenious of you.

The use of plastic (delrin?) for the mount is interesting. I'd think that it would flex under stress. More likely still is that it will expand whith heat. On the other hand, if it's for routing wood it's much more accurate than I could ever do by hand.

Again, Looks great!

Daniel


----------



## wquiles

Awesome project Pablo 

Will


----------



## PEU

gadget_lover said:


> The use of plastic (delrin?) for the mount is interesting. I'd think that it would flex under stress. More likely still is that it will expand whith heat. On the other hand, if it's for routing wood it's much more accurate than I could ever do by hand.



These will eventually be replaced by aluminium parts, but I still not sure of the best attachment method, so I will keep this setup until I figure its drawbacks 

I think I know why I dont finish the control box, its a psichological thing I guess, the fun of making the machine dissapears as soon I finish the box, thats maybe the cause I keep delaying it... I need help  

It happened to me before, and I always finish what I start, but Im in the middle of the process...


Pablo


----------



## HarryN

Hi Pablo - I am really watching how you go through the process of building this, as I would like to build one myself as well. Since you are the "pioneer", I will follow you path as much as possible, if you don't mind my copying. Z axis is a big deal for me. If i could obtain 1 meter of Z, I would use it, but I need at least 150mm of Z motion to be happy.

I have seen three general "concepts" of how to program CNC's.

a) The "original" method, which literally punched tape to move the motor drives to the desired path

b) Using tool path creation software on a PC, which required you to first draw the object in 3D cad, then convert the files to another program, which then converted it to a tool path, driven by a more or less dedicatd PC.

c) A "black box" controller, which had a number of basic shapes built into the controller (sort of like fonts I think), and then you located, mixed, and matched shapes and sizes to have it CNC what you wanted.

I think I like version C best - what do you think ?


----------



## PEU

Hi Harry,

My best advice is to read the CNC Wood Router log section at www.cnczone.com I ate that section before even thinking on starting the design.

Then you must decide what do you want to do with the machine, as I did, I'm sure you will change your mind over time.

My router design is not the best choice for starting, because I aimed at the best precision I can buy, so I spent heavily on precision. Not many people need this not even me :huh:

I use the PC for toolpath creation, super easy if you askme.

Again, go to www.cnczone.com and spend some weeks reading how other people did it, if you ask you will receive nice answers, there is a very good community there too, much like CPF but a bit more technical.

have fun


Pablo


----------



## PEU

I finally started to build the control box, the cabinet holes and placing is ready, I only need to cable everything like I did on the test table.

This is what I planed:










This is how it resulted:





























Pablo


----------



## localguy808

impressive!!!


----------



## jtice

That is kick *** Pablo !!!!!! :rock:
The CNC Table is cool enough on its own,
but the nicely designed control box really adds a professional feel to it.
This thing is really going to be nice when you are finish!

~John


----------



## [email protected]

Wow! :goodjob:


----------



## leadfoot808

Dang! Look at the brain on this guy!
That is so freakin' cool, man...I wish I had the skills to make something like that...I actually could use the hell out of a home cnc setup like that for hobbies and stuff:rock::rock::rock::rock:


----------



## chimo

Thanks for keeping us updated on this project. It has been fun to watch. Great Job!

Paul


----------



## PEU

The control Box is finished and running!

Using an online maze generator I created one then machined it:






yes, the maze is for real, I dare you guys to solve it 

And here is a little video of the machining: http://peu.net/mods/router105.avi

I'm happy


Pablo


----------



## frisco

I gotta say when I first started reading this thread......... I thought I was being sucked into another one of those "Pipe Dream" deals, where someone was thinking way over there head !!!!

Well, in this case I was dead wrong!!!! You are the man!!! That is really cool !!!

Many Compliments !!!!

frisco


----------



## chimo

Wow! Awesome work. That video is: Tool porn! Great job, Pablo!

Paul


----------



## WNG

I'm blown away!
Pablo, now I have something else to be envious about besides the great ribs you can get!

My hats off to you and your project results. Talk about brain power, skillz, and craftsmanship.

Woah!


----------



## PEU

Today I did this for my kid:






but the cool part is the video: 7mb (Windows media video)

I should start making something flashlight related 


Pablo


----------



## cmacclel

The vid isn't working for me.


EDIT it is now 

Cool vid



Mac


----------



## wquiles

PEU said:


> Today I did this for my kid:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but the cool part is the video: 7mb (Windows media video)
> 
> I should start making something flashlight related
> 
> 
> Pablo


Totally awesome Pablo !!!

Will


----------



## frisco

Me thinks your next project will be a trick vacuum system for all the saw dust your gonna be making !!!!

frisco


----------



## TENMMIKE

well im stunned, i was gonna recommend this nice small machine from haas http://www.haascnc.com/details_VMC_NEW.asp?ID=179#VMCTreeModel
but you have made for yourself a a very nice machine, i salute you
. PS i cant believe I'm seeing a cnc that has wooden structural parts...remarkable


----------



## PEU

The machine HAD wood parts, but now is all aluminium with the sole exception of the grinder holder which is made out of Delrin.

But dont be fooled by wood, I've seen lots of CNC routers made completelly of MDF wood, using it in a wise way they are stiff enough to cut from foam to aluminium sheet, and by making it in wood you can assemble a large machine at a fraction of the cost of metal.

One good thing about these router machines is that they are self improving, for example, the ballscrew to table attachments and the delrin support were made by the machine itself, you just need to make temporary parts that work long enough to make the new ones.

Or the wooden CNC guys that build a simple router just to cut the parts for a bigger one.

Don't make me drool over that picture  I went to a machining expo here a couple of weeks ago and I drooled all over the place  I would love to have a couple of machines: a VMC as the one in your photo (or similar) and a CNC lathe


Pablo


----------



## bombelman

I'll reply later, I have to pick up my jaw from the floor...


----------



## PEU

Yesterday I received a damascus blade I purchased at ebay, so it was time to put the router to work again, this time to make the blade scales, here is the photo journey, I have videos but I need to compress them, I may post them later.

The star of the show










Render & simulations













Work as it progresses

















































Now I need to remove the excess material, make the holes, cut pins to size, finish with high grit sandpaper and enjoy  

Hope you all like it


Pablo


----------



## bombelman

Like it... Was this done on your "hand made" Peu-Brand Router Table ?

Again, excellent work Pablo !!


----------



## PEU

yep, contour tracing, CAD/CAM modeling, the machine and everything made by yours trully


----------



## wquiles

Outstanding Pablo - :goodjob: 

Will


----------



## cy

proof of concept!


----------



## bombelman

PEU said:


> the machine and everything made by yours trully



Software too ?? Impressive :twothumbs


----------



## PEU

The software is purchased 


Pablo


----------



## TranquillityBase

Looks like there's no end in site for the creative genious of the Pablo...The router machine is awesome, and the blade scales too. 

Great job!

I wish I knew how to run that kind of machinery...

TB


----------



## greenlight

Nice photos!


----------



## Anglepoise

Pablo. Fantastic job.
Quick question. You call this a router table but you show on a couple of pics, what looks like a die grinder.Are you using the die grinder as well as a conventional wood router? These spin at around 20,000 rpm.
Is this what you used to cut the aluminium in the photos?

If yes, could you show a close up pic of the cutter bit.
Thanks....a great thread.


----------



## PEU

Hi David, 

yes I use a die grinder instead of a wood router, why you would ask, there are many reasons, most important one, decent wood routers are imposible to find here, and the second and also very important is the die grinder arbor, since it has bearings.

For this particular piece I used a 6mm HSS 4flute ball mill, I know I know, HSS isn't supposed to spin at 20K but since I cut wood or ALU on an occasional basis they don't suffer much  This ball mill cutted quebracho like a hot knife into butter, I was moving at 800mm/min, 50% diameter plunge rate (thats 3mm deep into the wood)

Sidenote: Quebracho specific weight is 1.2 kg/dm³, compared to pine 0.4 kg/dm³ or 2.7 kg/dm³ of aluminium you can have an idea on how hard this wood is, its so dense it doesn't float.

On monday I post a photo of the tools I have around, most of them are HSS, but slowly Im moving towards solid carbide.


Pablo


----------



## Anglepoise

I thought that was a die grinder.....<g>
I have a similar one, with a speed controller on it and I must try it out for some light milling in the lathe. That piece of aluminium you routed looked great. 
Thanks for the additional information.


----------



## MrNaz

Wow. Seriously, wow.

Aside from my jaw dropping off, I noted that that image there, damascus01.jpg, is the best photo I've seen of the patterns in Damascus steel. Would you mind if it was lifted and put on Wikipedia? They have a fairly mediocre photo of a folding damascus blade, which doesn't show the patterns nearly as nicely. If you're OK with this, please email me [email protected] and let me know. If you are able to take a photo of the finished knife that better shows the patterns, please do so and again, email me so I can wikify it.

Thanks, and once more, wow.


----------



## PEU

If you want to use the photo feel free (just say photo by PEU), please don't hotlink it, use your own server.


Pablo


----------



## PEU

a lot of water passed under the bridge since I made this router years ago, I tried to sell it because it got relegated to almost no use since I purchased (and became Argentina distributor) my Syil CNC mill and lathe.

Weeks ago I was asked to do a job in wood without an specific deadline that was bigger than the table of the mill, so, I tought, why not give the router a new lease in life and put it to work again.

The problem was that the table was 5cm (2 inches) smaller of the size I needed in the Y axis.

Years ago I tought about this problem and purchased an extra set of longer THK SHS15 rails, they were collecting dust like the router.

The idea was to replace just the rails and do the job I was asked, but after inspecting the router I recalled that when I built it, I didn't have the cnc mill, so some parts were less than optimal, Im speaking of the couplings between the ballscrew nuts and they respective table. These were the first parts I redid in the mill






One of the remade couplings, as you see they were made using 10mm aluminium sheet instead of a solid piece, the why: I have a near infinite supply of these sheets for free, so I use them wherever I can 





You don't like to see how the previous one were, hell... neither do I, I think I already throw them away in shame 

I did the same for the X axis and will do for the Z too.

Next in the router rework was the Z axis, not that I had a problem, but now with better tools and better knowledge I decided to make it again from scratch, it will look and perform better.

Here you can see some photos of it, its about 4cm (1.5in) wider than the original and will have better support, mostly due to the new rails that have 2blocks for each rail.











The metabo grinder support is almost finished and will replace the kludgy support I made years ago in delrin.

Here is a view of the work in progress:






Machining the couplings between the ballscrews and the moving table









A couple of views of the new metabo grinder support, far better than the original made in delrin.










More views of the rebuilt Z axis













Also added limit switches for all three axis, now when I turn the machine, I can reference the table to known positions, this makes everything simpler and most important safer!





The first test cut after the rebuild, machine worked amazingly well, both in speed and accuracy.










I must say Im happy that the router didn't sell, now Im not sure if Im going to put it on sale again.


Pablo


----------



## precisionworks

> Im not sure if Im going to put it on sale again.


Awesome job ... keep that machine


----------



## mototraxtech

I know this is an old thread but were did you get the extruded aluminum pieces. I have ALOT of parts that need to be made of 6061 plate aluminum ranging from .25" to .75" thick. I have seen some nice routers that can do it well. Right now Im looking at about a grand for my next order of parts so Im really thinking about going with the router. Also since I prototype alot it would make new prototypes come much quicker.


----------



## PEU

I bought them from a local company called Micro www.micro.com.ar but in the states you can get them at http://www.8020.net/ they even have an ebay discount store.


Pablo


----------



## precisionworks

Also MiniTec: http://www.minitecframing.com/

FazTek: http://www.faztek.net/

Reid Supply: http://www.reidsupply.com/Results.aspx?pid=10022312


----------



## unterhausen

that's a really nice machine, are you still using it?


----------



## PEU

Yes I am, and I think even more than the cnc mill...

Last June I finished an axial dust shoe for it, not the best machining, I had to use some sheets I got for free and clamping was difficult, but it does the work great.
Here is a photo essay of the parts:

Shoe assembled, unlike other shoes, this one is axial, dust is vacuumed around the cutting tool. The radial allen bolt is used to fix the shoe to the Metabo 





bottom side, you can see neodymium magnets to attach the bristle curtain




the hole was milled from the outside, then I dremelled it to provide a better path for the dust.




The top part is threaded to the shoe body, there is really no need for this, but I figured this when the shoe was almost finished 




Views of the side attachment, I have a lot of 10mm sheets, so I did this part in 4 layers




Hotmelted from the inside












The threaded side, there is no real need for the holes, the piece I used of aluminum I used had these holes and I had to live with that.




The shoe attached to the Metabo with and without the vacuum








Side view with and without the bristle curtain








Bored coupling in the lathe so the vacuum fits tightly





Tried it with some sheets of acrylic and not a single shaving escaped, now I can work cleanly 


Pablo


----------



## gadget_lover

Very nice setup Pablo. As always, nicely thought out and executed.

Daniel


----------



## PEU

Long time, no update 

The metabo is gone, it was replaced by a 0.8Kw ER11 High Speed Spindle, VFD powered and controlled from the PC via a DIY board (done it with the router) also added a DIY flow sensor for the spindle cooling. Still need to re adapt the axial dust shoe to the new spindle.

Some photos:










Checking perpendicularity in the Y axis





Same for X axis




Perfect! 

The cut quality improved many times fold, even with the metabo being a very nice tool, the high speed spindle is far better, less than 0.005mm runout, not that I need that accuracy, but its always welcome!


Made a halftone picture of my wife out of a scrap piece of melamine the other day: 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=op_tHMJI7FY


Pablo


----------



## gadget_lover

Truely amazing Pablo. But your work always is amazing.

Thanks

Daniel


----------



## Morelite

That halftone pic is pretty awesome. 
What software to you use with Mach3 to import an image and convert it to halftone?


----------



## PEU

Morelite said:


> That halftone pic is pretty awesome.
> What software to you use with Mach3 to import an image and convert it to halftone?


 
Halftone 2.0 by Tomi: http://www.students.tut.fi/~syvajar3/ Open Source and pretty awesome software.


Pablo


----------



## precisionworks

Comparing the Metabo to a dedicated machine tool spindle is like comparing a Piper Cub to an F-22 Raptor ... night & day  And the tiny run out of .0002" means extraordinarily long tool life.


----------



## PEU

Once again is upgrade time for my router, but this post is to ask a technical question:

I made a tooling plate that I want to afix to four standoffs on the moving table, my question is, how do I precisely align the standoffs afixing holes (not yet done) to the tooling plate holes (not yet done).

photos will make it clear:

This is how I want the tooling table setup





Here is the moving table underneath with the standoffs





What would be the best procedure to mark the holes to join both parts?


Thanks!


Pablo
PS: 5083 12mm alu sheet, all holes drilled/tapped, later will post about the building process


----------



## gadget_lover

I would temporarily fasten the plate to the table, then use the router to drill the holes as needed through both pieces. When yo go to tap the holes in the standoffs you can use the CNC software to position the router head to support the end of the tap while you turn it.

If you add holes for locating pins it will be pretty much self aligned. 

Dan


----------



## PEU

Thanks Daniel! your procedure just inspired a slightly different idea:

Under CNC control I will locate the boundaries of each standoff, then add the tooling plate at the desired position, fix it and lightly mark the holes as I cannot drill them at 10000RPM  once marked I will remove again the tooling plate and mark the holes at the standoffs using the same program but at a different Z position. Then I will manually drill thru holes at the tooling table and tap the standoffs. Voila! 


Pablo


----------



## PEU

Using the procedure inspired by Daniel's idea finished the holes, here is the complete build:

Always start with a plan! Made a wood piece to test fit the idea






Center punch every hole, all 301 of them! That's the CAD blueprint






Drill






Tapping with a tapmatic, thanks God my partners had this device in their arsenal of tools, all 301 holes were tapped in less than 2 hours, if you ever come across a cheap one at ebay don't let it go, this one is self reversing with torque adjust, amazing tool, really amazing! Look at the high tech torque arm support 






The machine I used with the tapmatic, heavy and sturdy old french iron






Shimming! the drill press I have at the office does not have enough throat to make the second holes at the front standoffs.






Finished! That paper on the right are the measurement of the standoff edges






The plate is not dead flat, there is only 0.1mm (0.004") across the whole table between peaks and valleys, I can live with that, an extra standoff in the middle of the table could help improve this a little.


Pablo


----------



## gadget_lover

That looks real nice. Did you include a locating pin, or are you just going by the bolt holes?

Daniel


----------



## PEU

neither 

Did as I posted, under CNC control put the tooling table were I wanted, then selected the position for the holes, lightly drilled and wrote down the exact location of all of them, removed the table, and did the same marks to the standoffs at the same locations, removed standoffs, drilled & taped them, then drilled the table at the marked points, the attaching screws fit like gloves, no need to enlarge or adapt holes.


Pablo


----------



## gadget_lover

Cool! I said bolt when I guess I should have said screws. 

It sure looks nice.

Daniel


----------



## precisionworks

Great job Pablo 



> Tapping with a tapmatic ... all 301 holes were tapped in less than 2 hours, if you ever come across a cheap one at ebay don't let it go, this one is self reversing with torque adjust, amazing tool, really amazing!


+1

I have a Tapmatic 90X that's used for larger holes and an Ettco 2B for smaller holes. The Tapmatics are usually higher priced on eBay but the Ettco tappers go really cheap. Ettco is not nearly as adjustable because it's a friction drive versus a clutch pack drive, but it is auto reverse. The inside of the unit is dead simple & there's hardly anything to go wrong.

Replacement parts are available for Tapmatic heads & the factory is really helpful when you're doing a rebuild - which is nice as they are complex. Figure half a day on the first one and about two hours once you've done a couple.

Ettco tapping heads


----------



## PEU

Too much lathe talk lately  

Today I finished the clamping kit for the new tooling table:










And here is what I first machined with it:














The hardwood is Quebracho, it has natural inner crackings, you may see them if you look closely. It's a paper weight 


Pablo


----------



## Al Combs

Looks awesome!:twothumbs


----------



## darkzero

Very cool Pablo, great work!. Uh you have my address to send me that paperweight right?


----------



## gadget_lover

I think you are mistaken Pablo. That is not Quebracho. It's obviously apple wood.



Very nicely done. 

Daniel


----------



## wquiles

gadget_lover said:


> Very nicely done.


+1


----------



## StrikerDown

gadget_lover said:


> I think you are mistaken Pablo. That is not Quebracho. It's obviously apple wood.
> 
> 
> 
> Very nicely done.
> 
> Daniel



Hahaha, Good one Daniel, Noce Jobs Pablo!


----------

