# Brightest Simple Mag Charger Mod, brighter than the 1160



## Northern Lights (Jan 16, 2007)

*We have overlooked the obvious! Looking to overdrive we failed to recognize. Simplest modification is to change to another type of bulb. The factory original bulb puts out about 200 torch-lumens. The common upgrade was to substitute with the WA 1160 bulb. 376 Torch-lumens vs. 497 Torch-lumens, 1160 overdriven vs. 5761 at spec. So, why do we work so hard to go backwards? The WA 1160 or any WA bulbs for that matter are difficult to get. Welsh Allyn requires minimum orders. The Phillips 5761 is a projector bulb and is available in many web stores and in good brick and mortar camera shops! Costs less too.* 

* *

Working with the specificationI realized because the Phillips but has a OEM specification of 6 Volts, yes, the Mag Charger is 6 Volts, and the 5761 is specified to output 765 bulb-lumens and just under *500 torch-lumens*, (497 T-lumens),!!! The WA 1160 mod at best is only 376 Torch-lumens. The WA 1111 mod at best is only 572 torch-lumens!



 

Most who modify the venerable Mag Instrument Mag Charger start out with a simple bulb change to the Welsh Alyn 01160-u bulb. That bulb is made for 5 volts so when we put it onto the 6 volts of the Mag Charger we get an output of 579 bulb-lumens and that figures to 376 torch-lumens. The OEM puts out about 200 torch-lumens. Torch-lumens are figured out generally by using a formula that translates to multiplying the bulb out put by .65. That is the real world light. Over exaggerated claims are common on popular mod projects bulbs like the WA 1185 because people do not consider voltage drops from use and resistance and fail to realize what comes out is a fraction of the theoretical best and many people state the best and do not calculate what the mod really is doing up front. 

 

Well, having said that the next step in the Mag Charger modding is usually giving it a better battery or even a higher voltage pack. The next voltage jump to 7.2 volts calls for the WA 1111 bulb as the next step in modding. That mod puts out 572 torch-lumens. *Why the WA 1111 at all, it is hardly brighter than the 5761 on 6-volts and way less output if you drop the 5761 on the 7.2-volt batteries of the WA 1111 mod?* Next a common mod is the WA 1185. On 10.8 volts, 9 cells the output generally is in the high 700s, the high 800a are reached when 10.8 volts gets to the bulb, that means 12 volts or 10 cells to get there. A very good alternative and the next step for brightness and burn time is the Phillips 5761. On 6 AA cells, 7.2 volts the output is nearly 900 torch-lumens. It beats the output of the WA 1185 but the best is part is that you can get 12 AA cells in that thing, high capacity cells with minimal boring, can be done by hand. More cells, 2700 mAh cells, means not only a brighter flashlight but much longer burn time. Using 10 AAs at 2700 mAh this light can run a 1185 at high 700’s torch-lumens for 48 minutes or 12 AAs at 5400 mAh this light can run a 5761 at just under the 900 torch-lumens for 61 minutes. 
 
Knowing this which would you build? No brainer, and aside from the numbers there are beam shots and experience on CPF that compares the two bulbs in operations. It looks to me the Phillips 5761 is the brightest solution for this light whether on the original battery pack or if you use common hot-wire solutions. We are not talking here about the flash-in-the-pan 100 watters, nice mods but not in the same practicality category.
 

With all of these bulbs it is recommended that the socket be insulated, simply placing a mica shield on it works. The 5761 is the same size as the Pelican 3854, ROP, in diameter, .377 in. To put it into a MC ream, light port, or hole whatever you like to use for nomenclature, can easily be enlarged by running a conical, spherical or cone shaped grinding stone on it until you get the bulb through it. The MC reflector is spun steel supported in a plastic housing. This housing can be insulated from the reflector and should be with higher output mods. The reflector can be popped out of the housing and put back in on top of 4 pads of fiberglass felt.


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## paulr (Jan 17, 2007)

I think those projector bulbs are less overdriven so they'll be yellower and run at lower lumens/watt than the WA bulbs. On the other hand they'll last longer.


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## Northern Lights (Jan 17, 2007)

paulr said:


> I think those projector bulbs are less overdriven so they'll be yellower and run at lower lumens/watt than the WA bulbs. On the other hand they'll last longer.



Paulr, you are, in my opinion, correct in general about those bulbs but I think the 5761 is as white as 1160s and 1111s and Pelican 3854 as I had those right here and now to look at when analyzing your post. From spec voltage on 5761 is white and gets whiter the higher you drive it. I have found insta-flash points, ooh! $6.40 each time I did. On the other hand it gets yellow fast when the voltage drops. I do not like yellow beams; LED output is a nice color to me so all hot wires to me look a little warm.

Here is a great thread that got me interested. You will notice that the beam shots are a bit yellow but keep in mind that is the camera setting. Look carefully you will notice the other well know bulbs and 1185 also look yellow here but we know they have good color to them and compare that to the 5761 in these photos. The best way to analyze this is to use software. A camera and computer are both prone to changing shades in the visual out put you see on screen. With a good photo program you can directly compare the beam shots color shades and get an emperical value for the shades and then compare the numbers to what you know about the color output to some of the bulbs used. For that reason I like it when people show beam shots of side by side or concurrent comparison to common lights. We all know in that way we can judge what the output may really be. For the most part beam shots show only size and shape correctly, the color and brightness is subjective to the viewer and dependant on the mechanics of computer software and camera settings.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/127925


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## paulsl (Mar 13, 2007)

I just ordered 4 Phillips 5761 thinking similarly since I read something on here. My idea is to not overdrive it necessarily and get great outout. Now you gave me the great idea of using it in a magcharger as well using fiberglass felt pads to insulate the reflector. Who makes reflectors for MagChargers?

Thx.


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## paulsl (Mar 13, 2007)

Northern Lights, I forgot to ask what 12 AA NIMH pack are you using and how is it set up to double the capacity? I'm a newbie and still need help.

Thx.


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## ZeissOEM2 (Mar 13, 2007)

[QUOTE=paul


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## paulsl (Mar 13, 2007)

Thx but I don't think he's selling them now. The reflectors won't fit a magcharger. Where can I find the battery holders as described above? Thx again.


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## Northern Lights (Mar 13, 2007)

OOPs, missed the posts last couple of days!
I am using 12 Sanyo 2700s, some reports posted in CPF demonstrate the Maha PowerX 2700 probably are better. I built a soldered battery pack 4 wide x3 long and directly wired it to the mag + and put in a ground screw, you can see it here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/151747
There is a connector and fuse in this circuit.
I had to bore or ream the tube 4X. I did it with a dremel flexible extension shaft and a deburring reamer. I would pay anyone to do this if I had to again but it was not difficult, just tedious.
The reflector solution is not bad either. You can dress a grinding ball to the diameter of the bulb and ream from the back of the reflector. Takes 2 minutes. If you can get the reflector to pop free the better if not then just stuff ceramic blanket material into the frame from the back otherwise if you get the reflector free put it back on a thin bed of ceramic blanket. Previous to my discover of the blanket I used automotive body repair fiberglass felt and suspended the reflector on 4 thin pads. That worked too.


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## paulsl (Mar 13, 2007)

Thx so much. Does anyone make a pack that holds the 12 2700 mah cells to produce 7.2 volts with 5400 mah? I'm really new and am not so sure of tackling something like that. The boring out seems more of a possiblity but the battery pack - that is what I'm looking for. Conversely, is a battery pack available that wouldn't overdrive the bulb and put out 6 volts with 5400 mah?


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## Northern Lights (Mar 13, 2007)

Oh, the pack is the easiest part, many good references on cpf. It is soldered and shrink wrapped. You could use a couple of bands of tape in lieu of the wrap. Soldering it together was done with a standard gun. very easy. Solder 4 stacks of three, end to end; tin each end of the battery, put the iron between them and push both agains the iron, quickly remove the iron while pushing the batteries together. One of the battery sites has a quick video of this. Take each of the four stacks and wrap a couple of wraps of electrical tape and now you got a stack. Now solder a jumper between the stacks to make two stacks, 6 batteries in series, 7.2 volts, then run a jumper to make those parallel. It is very easy, one of CPF battery gurus surely can help you in that forum!


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## ZeissOEM2 (Mar 14, 2007)

/IMG]


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## jasonsmaglites (Mar 25, 2007)

where can i get one of these bulbs? what's the runtime?
anyone else prove to themselves that it is brighter than 1160?


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## Northern Lights (Mar 25, 2007)

Which bulb?
Litho123 for WA lamps
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=148443
Phillips 5761 available most places even good camera stores. I got them here:
www.bulbconnection.com
www.bulbtronics.com
As a registered user on bulbtronics I got slightly lower prices for quanitities of 4 or 5 5761s over bulbconnection.


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## NotBrightNuf (May 2, 2009)

What is the WA 1185 voltage rating without over driving?


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## Northern Lights (May 3, 2009)

NotBrightNuf said:


> What is the WA 1185 voltage rating without over driving?


 
Litho123 is the source

you can look it up here including using their program to overdrive

http://www.walamp.com/lpd/index.tpl


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## Northern Lights (May 3, 2009)

http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/...71&cart=12414083521277531&divnum=3&startat=61

http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/detail.tpl?partnumber=01185-U&cart=12414083521277531

ON THE FIRST PAGE CLICK ANY RE-RATE LAMP AND IT WILL TAKE YOU TO THE RE-RATING PROGRAM, YOU WILL MANUALLY PUT IN THE BULB PART NUMBER IN THE ADDRESS OF THE WEB PAGE, THE URL, AND IT WILL DO THE REST.


TAKE THE 1181. ONCE THE PAGE IS LOADED IN THE URL CHANGE THE 1181 TO 1185 AND CLICK NOW IT WILL SET UP THE RE-RATER LIKE THIS:

http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/rerate.tpl?partnumber=01185-U

LOAD THE PAGE FROM THIS URL AND OPPOSITE THE CHOSEN VOLTAGE CLICK THE UNDERLINED R AND YOU GET
THE RE RATED SPECIFICATIONS:

http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/...&L2=3.31952948576512&adj=5&partnumber=01185-U


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## CTKILLER303 (Jan 12, 2012)

Thank god i found this thread i was about to buy a WA01160


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## Northern Lights (Jan 13, 2012)

CTKILLER303 said:


> Thank god i found this thread i was about to buy a WA01160



I still have and use the Mag Charger 5761. What a nice spot. It runs an hour on two D lithium-ion protected cells and a dedicated li-ion 7.2V charger connected to the cradle, bypassing the original charging circuit.

Here is the post which contains the links that led to the completion:
post <---<<<- click on this link, it will take you there


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## CTKILLER303 (Jan 17, 2012)

Thats a pretty nice setup but i think im gonna stick with the standard NiMH battery pack for now since this is my first Mag Charger i want to keep it simple and reliable. Maybe in the near future though :thumbsup:


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