# What would be your ultimate headlamp



## FlashlightR (Apr 7, 2017)

Hi forum members,

I am still looking for the ultimate headlamp. I would like to know what specifications your perfect headlamp should have. I hope some manufacturers will read this thread and trigger their R&D department. [emoji6] 

My perfect headlamp should at least have the following options:

- Infinite brightness control (like HDS rotary or Surefire mini/maximus)
- White and red light support
- High CRI (90+)
- 4000-4500K
- Output white light at least around 500 or 600 lumen (no need for 1000+ lumen)
- Minimum output white light around 0.5 lumen
- Floody red light (0.5 - 5 lumen)
- Constant current regulation
- Good spill and a bit of throw (no bouncing hot spot)
- Replaceable, standard battery support (18650)
- Rechargeable
- Light weight, potted electronics, highly drop resistant and water proof

Added after replies from forum members: 

- Possibility to charge while using
- TIR optics with honeycomb


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## Lex Icon (Apr 7, 2017)

Since you've got such a great fantasy light so far, make the head removable/interchangeable like the smaller MecArmy PT series; you can have a great 'regular' light also, and protect the charging port.

If you are going to wear it on your head for any amount of time, make the holder with heat sinking properties, even that many lumens are going to heat up an 18650.


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## davefr (Apr 7, 2017)

FlashlightR said:


> Hi forum members,
> 
> I am still looking for the ultimate headlamp. I would like to know what specifications your perfect headlamp should have. I hope some manufacturers will read this thread and trigger their R&D department. [emoji6]
> 
> ...




...or at least a simple/intuitive interface that doesn't require a programming manual or morse code. Any user should be able to pick one up and go from off-low-med-high-off with no prior knowledge of the light. The last used mode should always be the first to come on after off. The special modes like strobe can be a little more involved. Skilhunt almost has it right. (unlike ZL and Wizard)

Also:
Easy to insert and remove from holder and use standalone (L style). Robust style pocket clip.

Magnetic base

Negligible quiescent current draw

Universal 18650 battery support (flat top or button top, protected or unprotected)


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## LeanBurn (Apr 7, 2017)

If I could change my TH20 to have the same tint and CRI as a Yuji LED, it would be my ultimate headlamp.


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## FlashlightR (Apr 7, 2017)

Thanks for the feedback!

I also don't like the double/triple click thing. Therefore I think the rotary interface would be nice.

I like the clean and thin design of the TH20 but I prefer the beam profile of a honeycomb TIR optic (like the Armytek Wizard). 

The downside of TH20 design is that it isn't easy to use as a multi head/flashlight.


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## Random Dan (Apr 7, 2017)

I'd like to see a headlamp with two emitters. One floody with either a honeycomb optic or frosted lens and the other a reflector with moderate throw. A rotary brightness control that goes from ~0.05lm with the floody emitter to 300+ lm and also fades in the throwier emitter. Both should be 4000-4500K and high CRI/good tint.


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## FlashlightR (Apr 7, 2017)

Sounds like the HDS headlamp Henry has in mind. Good idea but I am afraid that the two optics make the light heavier with shorter runtimes and produce to much heat....


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## RollerBoySE (Apr 7, 2017)

A few addendums:
- real high CRI (90+)
- possibility to charge/power while using (unlimited runtime with power bank)
- high lumens (1000+), which probably requires multi emitters to retain high CRI


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## FlashlightR (Apr 7, 2017)

The possibility to charge while using I think is a very good idea and will be added to my wishlist, thanks!

Dear manufacturers, are you listening 👂


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## Lumencrazy (Apr 7, 2017)

How about a built-in coffee maker and Facebook access?


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## FlashlightR (Apr 7, 2017)

LOL !


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## xcandrew (Apr 8, 2017)

I'd have different wants for an ultimate headlamp because I use my headlamp for fast moving activities at night - running on trails or in the forest or mountains including high speed downhills, orienteering, skiing, skijoring, cycling. So the main use would be to light the way so you can move comfortably, with light spreading smoothly from near my feet to a long way in the distance - basically what cyclists use.

So I don't want stuff like low lumen levels, red lights, or infinitely adjustable levels. I'd want:

- Multi-emitter light with different lenses to provide smooth coverage of light from wide to distance. The actual beam matters the most.
- Super comfortable and stable headstrap, designed for running.
- Body of the lamp lightweight (not carrying the main batteries) and mounted high above the forehead, balanced in a line above the headstrap support.
- 3 stepped light level (or programmable to 2-4 steps). Starting at about 300-400 lumens for low. High levels that can be run continuously for hours. I've got 1200 lumens on my current headlamp that is good for almost 1.5 hours (with 2x18650), so at least that.
- Well designed heat sink and contact to cooling fins so high levels can run continuously.
- Tightly controlled step down in output when the headlamp gets hot that steps back up very quickly/responsively when you get airflow/it cools off
- Control button easy to use with cross country ski gloves on.
- Cables that are extremely durable with respect to strain and rated for the coldest temperatures you'll see in Alaska in the winter
- Battery packs that can be attached either to the back of the headstrap, or on an extension cable to a pocket or pack.

My ultimate light is probably already made by LedX, though I haven't seen them in person. I'd take a Kaa 1700 (2 emitter, 3x18650 11.1V) for general night use and the Mamba 3500 (4 emitter, 6x18650 11.1V) for faster or longer. (The Cobra 5500 with 8 emitters is probably overkill even for me, unless I take up snowmobiling.) They have beams that look much superior to lights like the Lupines (the most expensive headlamps I've seen in the US), obtained by combining multiple emitters with different lenses: http://ledx.se/en/light-test/ Despite their power, the Lupines don't have enough spill have uglier beams. For example the Kaa 1500 vs the Lupine Piko ("pico") or the Mamba 3500 vs the Lupine Wilma.
They've got great headstraps and balanced, lightweight heads, tough cables for Swedish winters.


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## FlashlightR (Apr 8, 2017)

I never heard of them, but they make some great lights. Indeed with better spill then the Lupines. As far as I can see there are no resellers in the USA. Indeed, every person has it's own preferences for the ultimate headlamp.


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## iamlucky13 (Apr 10, 2017)

FlashlightR - The upcoming Zebralight H53Fc will come very close to the specs you list, although without a rotary interface or a red LED (a removeable filter would work, though), and with a smaller battery.

If it had existed 6 months ago before I bought something else, I would have pounced on it.

If Zebralight updates their 18650 line with the same XP-L2 emitter, then it's even closer.



LeanBurn said:


> If I could change my TH20 to have the same tint and CRI as a Yuji LED, it would be my ultimate headlamp.



Unfortunately, Yuji does not do high power LED's. The closest thing they seem to offer to the Cree XP package is rated at 1 W, while the XP-L2 can handle 8 times the power, and the XHP35 can handle 12 times.

If a high CRI TH20 is something you're really keen on though, I know Gunga has modded one with a Nichia 219 before.


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## RollerBoySE (Apr 10, 2017)

iamlucky13 said:


> FlashlightR - The upcoming Zebralight H53Fc will come very close to the specs you list, although without a rotary interface or a red LED (a removeable filter would work, though), and with a smaller battery.
> 
> If it had existed 6 months ago before I bought something else, I would have pounced on it.
> 
> ...



Without high CRI (>90) it's not even close.


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## iamlucky13 (Apr 10, 2017)

RollerBoySE said:


> Without high CRI (>90) it's not even close.



The Nichia 219 is oft-discussed on CPF for a reason. 

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_94&product_id=740

There are other high 90+ CRI options, too, but for whatever reason they tend to be less popular - I'm guessing Cree just prefers to sell their high CRI yield in bulk to fixed lighting manufacturers.

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_62&product_id=821


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## RollerBoySE (Apr 10, 2017)

iamlucky13 said:


> The Nichia 219 is oft-discussed on CPF for a reason.
> 
> http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_94&product_id=740
> 
> ...



Nichia is fine but Cree not so much. 

I shouldn't have to start out with modifying the light (swapping LED), should I?


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## FlashlightR (Apr 11, 2017)

Iamlucky13: thanks for the suggestion! I have a Zebralight H52Fw and think it's a great small headlight. The H53Fc indeed will be an upgrade looking at CRI. One of the cons of the single AA lights in my opinion is the short runtime. But, let's wait what the H53 will bring. I am very curious.


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## iamlucky13 (Apr 11, 2017)

RollerBoySE said:


> Nichia is fine but Cree not so much.
> 
> I shouldn't have to start out with modifying the light (swapping LED), should I?



No, shouldn't have to swap. That's definitely not the desired situation.

Have you seen Cree high CRI lights? A few do exist, but most flashlight manufacturers don't use them.

I've got a 90+ CRI rated Cree XM-L2 light. It looks quite good to me, although I can't fairly compare it to the one Nichia 219 light I own because the color temperatures are so different: Around 2800K on the Cree and 4500K on the Nichia.



FlashlightR said:


> Iamlucky13: thanks for the suggestion! I have a Zebralight H52Fw and think it's a great small headlight. The H53Fc indeed will be an upgrade looking at CRI. One of the cons of the single AA lights in my opinion is the short runtime. But, let's wait what the H53 will bring. I am very curious.



Very true. Hopefully the next step after the H53Fc starts shipping is similar upgrades for the H600Fc and Fd. Hypothetically, they should be able to get 90+ CRI XHP series like they're using in the SC600Fd if they want to maximize output. Otherwise, the same XP-L2 as the H53Fc is getting should be able to match or slightly beat the output of the current H600Fc/Fd.


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## RollerBoySE (Apr 11, 2017)

iamlucky13 said:


> No, shouldn't have to swap. That's definitely not the desired situation.
> 
> Have you seen Cree high CRI lights? A few do exist, but most flashlight manufacturers don't use them.
> 
> I've got a 90+ CRI rated Cree XM-L2 light. It looks quite good to me, although I can't fairly compare it to the one Nichia 219 light I own because the color temperatures are so different: Around 2800K on the Cree and 4500K on the Nichia.



No, I haven't had a chance to experience the new Cree high CRI lights yet. Looking forward to it. 
2800K is however good for home lightning, but in a flashlight I really want 4500-5000K.


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## iamlucky13 (Apr 11, 2017)

RollerBoySE said:


> No, I haven't had a chance to experience the new Cree high CRI lights yet. Looking forward to it.
> 2800K is however good for home lightning, but in a flashlight I really want 4500-5000K.



I definitely understand. I'm a warm light fan, but this light turned out to be warmer than ideal. I still like it, though.

If the new Zebralights live up to their specs, then the high CRI XP-L2 sounds like excellent emitter. Hopefully we'll be seeing more of it.


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## mk2rocco (Apr 11, 2017)

I absolutely agree with your specs. I would also like to see the ability to run 4.2v and 6v or 4.2 and 3v so I can use primary cells if needed.


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