# UV light for Amber searching



## Hestbech (Jan 21, 2015)

I need some good advice before I buy, or make a uv lamp diy-style.

The lamp is for when I go treasure-hunting for amber at night by the sea.

During my research I've searched this and other forums, and found several informative/relevant threads:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?240535-Show-us-your-bike-light-set-up
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?257554-Introduction-to-modifying-flashlights
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?38571-My-MR16-Mag-Mods-(with-many-pics)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?341262-Heads-for-Umbilical-torches-No-tools
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?246840-Nichia-365nm-Light-offerings
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?370090-UV-LED-Options&highlight=amber+uv
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?341878-UV-curing-lights-amp-eye-protection
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/28775
http://www.fluomin.org/uk/fiche.php?id=77
http://uvminerals.org/fms/uvlights
http://www.alieneye.info/tubelight/index.html

But i still have a lot of questions :sick2:

My requirements for the lamp:

Powerfull UV light at 365nm or less - Amber is fluorescent in uv light at wavelengths from 320nm to 380nm (some says its only from 320-365nm) 
Must be able to illuminate a minimum af 5-10 meters. 
Battery life of at least 3 hours - maybe an external 12v battery? 
Filter for filtering out visible light. - like this http://www.viewpointlaboratories.co...12-led-photo-quality-uv-blacklight-spotlight/ 
Max price of aprox 250 usd (maybe a little more) 
Rainproof, not waterproof. 

I have found these products, but most are quite expensive. Therefore, I am examining whether I can make a similar or better lamp, at a lower price:

http://www.larsonelectronics.com/p-...365nm-pistol-grip-w-16-coil-cord-9-32vdc.aspx
http://www.prlog.org/12261375-viewp...black-enhanced-uv-led-illumination-tools.html
http://www.viewpointlaboratories.co...12-led-photo-quality-uv-blacklight-spotlight/
http://www.shop.gregmcgeeengineering.com/U301-365nm-Nichia-UV-LED-Flashlight-019.htm
http://www.dyron.fr/page_article.php?id_article=77&cat_article=eclairage&language=2 (wavelength?)
http://www.hartenberger.de/index.html Expensive!!!



Questions:
I have searched the web for housing for MR16, but have not really been able to find any good ones. Maby "housing" is not the right search-term (I'm from denmark). Only a lot diy made out of water pipes and similar. Do any of you know any resellers of housing for the MR16 with GU5.3 base?

Housing and diy:
http://www.according2ed.com/2012/01/bicycle-light-edscopecompleted.html
http://nordicgroup.us/s78/indexn.html#MR16 Lamp Based Headlamps
couldent find a reseller of the dual setup in the above link :-(


Additionally, I am in doubt about which bulbs/LED's are the most powerful and which ones best suit my purposes -or if there are better alternatives I do not know about:

http://dk.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntk=P_MarCom&Ntt=161382735
http://www.goldengadgets.com/365nm-uv-ultraviolet-3-watt-led-light-bulb-mr16-12v-dc.html

Furthermore I would like to test the difference in light emitted from amber under a wavelength of 365nm, and in a lower wavelength. If someone has two different UV lights, preferable a 365nm, and one between 320nm and 365nm, I could send you some pieces of amber, so we can test the difference.

I have a pair Oakley M-frame sunglasses. Does anyone know what lenses I should buy that protects best against UV rays, and possibly highlights the reflected light from the amber? Preferably not too dark lenses as I go "amber-hunting" at night 


Any advice would be much appreciated. Or maybe someone knows where to find the parts I need to build a kick-*** UV searchlight 

Cheers from Denmark :green:


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## Tachikoma (Jan 31, 2015)

Unfortunately 365nm LEDs are still expensive, so even a DIY solution won't be cheap at the moment and the only powerful UV flashlights I've seen can be bought on forensics specific websites, but cost several (and I mean several) hundred dollars.
The best bang for the buck right now, at least IMO, is the Nitecore CU6, 3,000mw 365nm for $79 is practically a steal, unimaginable even 2 years ago (similar forensics model used to cost $2,000), I'm really happy with mine and in my (amateurish) tests it performs almost like a giant 400w UV cannon (this one if you're not familiar http://www.glow.co.uk/uv-blacklight-cannon.html ), if you want some photos of a specific object illuminated for reference just ask and I'll provide it, I also have this ( http://powerledlighting.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30) , an old Inova x5 395nm and a classic wood tube for comparison.

Regarding the glasses, I too have M-frames Strike with 2 lenses, Black Iridium polarized for maximum visible light filtering and vr28 for contrast enhancement (mainly used when I go to the gun range, but they enhance the uv fluorescence too), but really when using the cu6 I use normal transparent prescription glasses, since the OD on the ultraviolet wavelength should be basically the same as for international standards. If you however plan on using way more powerful models (or even a forensic UV laser, that costs like a luxury car eheheh), I suggest you pick specific safety glasses with high optical density and complete peripheral coverage.


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## forsas2 (Oct 20, 2016)

Hi, i've been reading your posts about diy uv lights here and on blf. First of all, let me introduce myself. I am from Lithuania and i am a fellow amber hunter  been catching amber with landing net during the day for quite a few years, but now i found UV. I purchased a cheap no name chinese led flashlight: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ultr...V-Flashlight-Purple-Light-by/32353962459.html . It seems that it is around 400 nm and amber shines like crazy under it. Problem is that it lacks power, it's got a very tight spot and loads of very dim spill. So i also got a similar idea to yours, to build something more powerfull. I built a driver using 8 amc 7135s, 2 chips for each led. I got 4 365nm semiled leds as i heard very good reviews about its performance. Powered them up with zbw2 filters in front and was amazed by the amount of fluorasense in the bathroom and other gross areas  virtually no visible light, only fluorasesnse. Problem is that amber is not affected by those leds at all. I mean, completely nothing! I am so disappointed now... i guess that 400nm is the best afterall just need to find good ones and try building something. Could you please share your latest experiences or finds? you haven't posted any updates for a while. I will try to take some pics of what i am doing, also i am into electronis, drivers etc., so could help you with circuit building and basic maths cos i read that this area is challenging for you.
Hope to hear from you soon 
Cheers


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## George7806 (Oct 20, 2016)

A few months ago, a was looking for a high power UV emitter, to use for drying optical glue. Seeing the post of a fellow member, I purchased a Nichia NVSU233A-U365 emitter, a 3 mode 1400mA max. current driver (Maximum forward current of this emitter) and an inexpensive zoomie host (I until I make something nicer for it). It might be a good choice, for the application you're looking for. It is powered by 1x 18650 battery. I can't give you exact specs. on run-time, but I think it would be in the range you need it for. All under $70. PM me if you need more specifics. Here is a photo of the body, without the zoom-head on. The only part I decided to machine for it, is the copper spacer, between the brass pill and the MCPCB.


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## Lexel (Oct 20, 2016)

I got the Convoy s2+ with the 3W Nichia emitter.
Its specified with 780mW optical power at 365nm
it has almost none visible output
imho the Nichia UV LEDs are one of the best you can get

It runs on a 3400mAh 18650 battery for at least 4 hours

the emitter is very small with 1x1mm so the hotspot is very focused even with a short reflector

http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_277704.html?wid=21

of course you may build on the bigger NVSU333 with 4500mA in a flashlight like Convoy L2, get even more focused spot with a lot more UV power
the LED is rated with almost 4W light output at 365nm at 3500mA if you run it at 4500mA you get about 5W of UV light
http://www.nichia.co.jp/specification/products/led/NVSU333A-E.pdf


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## Dr. Mario (Oct 21, 2016)

Definitely go with Nichia NVSU233A-U365 LED. It's blinding for a blacklight LED; you'd want to buy the UV blocking goggle too, as some surface like concrete sidewalk and sands can actually reflect UV light (I found out the hard way, and man, harsh purple light [I can actually see 365nm UV light] is so harsh to look at).

I have Convoy S2 host-based DIY filtered UV flashlight, and I love it for its brutal ultraviolet output. 😎 (Nichia NVSU233A-U365 is used therein, along with ZWB2 bandpass filter.)

EDITED: Also, my current avatar is a picture of this ultraviolet flashlight running on LiFePO4 cell (so it is kind of dim enough not to overwhelm my Nexus 6 phone's camera when I took the picture).


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## Lexel (Oct 21, 2016)

Dr. Mario the NVSU333A is up to 3 times mote powerful than the 233 it should fit in his budget.
even if he runs it on 3A with a standart CC driver it should emit about 3W of UV light

anyways for 25$ he can buy a Convoy torch with 780mW of UV to test if its enough power

the less visible output the better the contrast you could buy as well a UV filter for the light to block any visible light, the Nichia LEDs are very good they got no white wastelight


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## Dr. Mario (Oct 21, 2016)

NVSU333A is actually extremely pricey, about $150 a pop, the last time I checked with Nichia.

And some filtration may be necessary, Nichia's powerful 365nm LEDs still emit some 400nm violet, and it's distracting. So, I used the ZWB2 filter to help cut out obnoxious ~400nm violet. Stuff shows up best when you use the UV bandpass filter.


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## Dr. Mario (Oct 21, 2016)

Of course I want NVSU333A LED, but as I mentioned, it's not cheap at all.


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## forsas2 (Oct 21, 2016)

well, nichia won't work well for amber hunting.. 365nm is a bit low, it's been determined that 400-405nm is best to make amber fluorasent. I already have some great 365s with zbw2 filter and they work awesome for usual uv stuff, but not for amber..


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## Lexel (Oct 21, 2016)

His budget is 250$ why not invest 150$ into one of the best LEDs
a host like Eagle Eye X6, with batteries and charger is like 60$
Get a 10x10cm ZWB2 filter and let it cut to the flashlight size like 30-40$

The Eagle Eye with XPL Hi is a perfect host
the build in CC driver is rated at 3500mA like the nominal current for the LED

just need to find a board for the LED People used the XHP70 board before


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## Dr. Mario (Oct 21, 2016)

I suppose if he want to. Also, XHP-70 MCPCB is the correct one for the NVSU333A, preferably Copper as it can get stupid hot at up to 4 - 4.5 Amps (and at that current, I bet you could possibly set the paper on fire with the Convoy L2 pointing at the paper point-blank - it's that bright).

As for NVSU233A LED, it's good enough for me... Until it's literally no longer good enough. :devil: It do make a damn good emitter for the blacklight Convoy S2 - I am finding myself using it much more often than paltry (and obviously dim) blacklight fluorescent lamp. :duck:


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## staticx57 (Oct 21, 2016)

Darn, the NVSU333A is $150 ish? I think ill stick with my baby convoy here.


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## Dr. Mario (Oct 21, 2016)

Nope. It's NVSU333A that cost $150, while NVSU233A costs $13.


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## staticx57 (Oct 21, 2016)

Dr. Mario;[URL="tel:4985878" said:


> 4985878[/URL]]Nope. It's NVSU333A that cost $150, while NVSU233A costs $13.


Was copying and pasting the part number and pasted the wrong one. I meant the 333. Either way that's a crazy price for the biggest brother.

How easy is a 233 build?


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## Dr. Mario (Oct 22, 2016)

Kinda. You may have to cover the middle pad on XP MCPCB with some Kapton tape (cut to fit) as NVSU233A only has two pads (Rigel MCPCB is almost nonexistent). As for the rest of flashlight, not too hard. You take your pick for the LED driver.

And, I need to stress that both NVSU233A and NVSU333A have rather fragile UV glass window.


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## Lexel (Oct 22, 2016)

the 233A fits on an Nichia 119 footprint
it will do fine with a Convoy S2+ with 1.4A driver or similar body

can you link me the dealer selling it that cheap I found it only much more expensive

the 333 is probably the most powerful single Emitter you can buy but its expensive and hard to get a dealer
I was tempted to buy it from aliexpress for 180$ on a copper heatsink, but its sold out by now


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## Dr. Mario (Oct 22, 2016)

Unfortunately, it's not easy to get a 119 MCPCB, I have searched everywhere. So, I had to cheat a bit.

And, I just buy them straight from Nichia, while I wonder if I got lucky as they're pretty picky about the buyers (could be wrong).


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## gunga (Oct 22, 2016)

I know a guy on BLF who made a bunch if you want some.


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## lols (Oct 22, 2016)

Dr. Mario said:


> Unfortunately, it's not easy to get a 119 MCPCB, I have searched everywhere. So, I had to cheat a bit.
> 
> And, I just buy them straight from Nichia, while I wonder if I got lucky as they're pretty picky about the buyers (could be wrong).



what's the shipping rate from nichia? and how many piece you buy? Do you just send them an inquire? i'm looking to buy few at $13


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## Dr. Mario (Oct 22, 2016)

Shipping rate depends on where you live (As I live in Montana, USA, I do not have to pay for the shipping, surprisingly enough - and yes I did have to double check to make sure I am not seeing things), and my asking amount actually varies, from one to maybe six as the ultraviolet LEDs are considered a special case since they're actually very hard to make. You gotta also ask your sales rep to check both the sales taxes and shipping cost for you before you write down the order sheet.

I'd recommend you to download NVSU233A datasheet and then pick the bin you want - after that, inquire for whatever amount you want. Be patient as the sales representatives are quite busy - they will talk with you via e-mail and probably register you as the authorized buyer. Print and sign both the order paperwork and legal waiver (the reason for waiver is that it's a dangerous LED, not exaggerating here). Then either scan and attach them into the email, or fax the signed paperworks straight to them. After this, they will talk with you to make sure the order is what you want (as well as suggesting available bin if the ones you want is not available).


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