# How to clean threads and apply Lube to them correctly?



## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 26, 2007)

I used the search function but didn't come up with anything that answered this question. Most threads were just about which kind of Lube to use, but now how to put it on once you own it.

My question is how should I apply lube to my lights? I have some Nyogel 760G and would love to know the correct way of applying it to my lights (Jetbeam C-LE, D Mini, L1DCE)? I was thinking maybe by using a Q Tip, but wasn't sure because maybe the Q Tip will get the threads dirty when the fine pieces of cotten come off and get stuck into the threads. I also thought that maybe a Tissue would work but wasn't sure about that either. 

Could everyone list how they apply lube to the threads on their lights, or if there is a correct proven way on how to do it please list that. Thanks in advance.


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## gadgetnerd (Feb 26, 2007)

I clean out my threads with a low lint tissue (Kimwipes) dipped in isopropanol. Then with my fingertip I apply a very light coat of silicone grease (non-conducting) and reassemble. Most of my lights are silky smooth to operate, so I can't be doing too much wrong. For lights which get reasonable use, I probably do this every couple of months.


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## DUQ (Feb 27, 2007)

gadgetnerd said:


> I clean out my threads with a low lint tissue (Kimwipes) dipped in isopropanol. Then with my fingertip I apply a very light coat of silicone grease (non-conducting) and reassemble. Most of my lights are silky smooth to operate, so I can't be doing too much wrong. For lights which get reasonable use, I probably do this every couple of months.



Same procedure as I use. I do this at least once per month on my user's.


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## Handlobraesing (Feb 27, 2007)

Don't use petroleum based lube unless specifically recommended by the manufacture (such as Mag) or else it might disintegrate your O ring. I simply wipe it off with a cotton cloth, then apply silicone plumber's grease.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 27, 2007)

Thanks for the reply guys. 


I will be using Nyogel 760G on my lights as recomended by most users on here. I normally don't have to lube many lights, but my Jetbeam C-LE REALLY REALLY needed it! 

If anyone else does it a different way, or if the way DUQ suggested is the way to go please add that as well.


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## Paladin (Feb 27, 2007)

When threads are "gritty" I use an old toothbrush to clean the threads before applying lube. My Gladius tailcap felt like there was sand in the threads, after cleaning it was smooth as silk. For the other end, when small bits of lint, etc. end up on the reflector or inner lens, I use canned air to blow it out.

Paladin


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## Uncle Bob (Feb 27, 2007)

If you're cleaning and lubing threads shouldn't you also lube the O-ring at the same time? And if you do, do you remove it (how?) or just lube over it?


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## Illum (Feb 27, 2007)

I use C fold towels [dont use TP or napkins since they tend to disintegrate when you use them to rub off the previous lube and you'll wind up having paper fiber in your threads]cleaning usually involve forcing the towel into the threads with your thumbnail ....I dont have rubbing alcohol handy, so I just use water when necessary

since I use nyogel [760G], it comes with a narrow application tip. I simply draw 2-3 vertical lines that cover all threads, then smear it out evenly before replacing the bezel or tailcap back on, make sure you work it around:screw in, out, in, out a couple times to ensure its spread out evenly.

as for the o-rings, its best to take them out, fill some lube in the o-ring space on the torch body, replace the o-ring then move it around to ensure even application underneath, place some on the o-ring if the bezels loose or the light will be seeing alot of water, thats really about it.

depending on usage, lubrication should be done once every 1-2 months


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## DUQ (Feb 27, 2007)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> If anyone else does it a different way, or if the way DUQ suggested is the way to go please add that as well.



Credit goes to gadgetnerd


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## gadgetnerd (Feb 27, 2007)

DUQ said:


> Credit goes to gadgetnerd



Thanks mate, nice to know I can do something properly!


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## EssLight (Feb 28, 2007)

FWIW, here is what I do.

I clean threads using Q-tips. First wiping dry, to get as much of the old lube up as possible, then wet with isopropanol (rubbing alcohol), then wipe with a clean, dry end. I continue alternating wet/dry until the Q-tip stays clean. I lube using the Nyogel 760C, running two or three beads across the threads, then using my (clean) fingers to work the lube into the threads, until I can see/feel that there is enough lube. Then I put the mating pieces back together and work them back and forth to distribute the lube, if I sense any metal on metal rubbing, I'll add more lube.

With O-rings, usually I am lazy, I leave them in place, clean them along with the threads, and spread lube on top of them. The right thing to do is to (carefully) remove the O-ring, clean it and the O-ring groove. I spread spread lube in the groove with my finger, and I put a film of lube on the O-ring with my fingers before installing it.

Another thing to do when lubing threads is to clean the electrical contact surfaces. I have a Fenix L2T, when it was new it seemed to accumulate alot of gunk in both the head and the tailcap (maybe from too much factory lube?). Generally, Q-tips with isopropanol would do the job.  On an older light, if terminals get corroded, a pink pencil eraser will rub off the corrosion, follow that up with isopropanol. I have seen many recommendations on CPF for DeOxit and DeOxit gold for contact cleaning and protecting, I have not tried them myself.

For a larger light like a C or D Mag, for cleaning threads with lots of old lube, for the parts that can be submerged, I will clean them in a bucket with water and dish detergent and scrub the threads with a toothbrush. Then I rinse in clean water, and wait until they are fully dry before relubing and assembling.

EssLight


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## VidPro (Feb 28, 2007)

i just spray 'silicoln spray' on anything and everything, never cause a problem with anything, and i am to lasy to complicate things. contacts, o-rings, hinges, threads, that stuff works on anything. even makes wall switches easy to clean off, has not altered plastics or acrylics, or glass, even though its mostly high volitile solvent.

for nasty cheap china threads that are "gritty" as mentioned above, i use a terry cloth towel on them first, the loops of the terry cloth sink into the thread patterns quick, and relieve it of any metals hanging about


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## Illum (Feb 28, 2007)

VidPro said:


> i just spray 'silicoln spray' on anything and everything, never cause a problem with anything...


 
your lucky...silicone sprays i've used arent conductive, so if you accidently sprayed some into the contact regions at the end of the body and that stuff flowed in...your going to be looking at serious contact problems +

the spray nozzles like a fan almost, onces I used are recommended as for garage door openers...now, NYOGEL!


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## Uncle Bob (Feb 28, 2007)

EssLight said:


> FWIW, here is what I do.
> 
> I clean threads using Q-tips. First wiping dry, to get as much of the old lube up as possible, then wet with isopropanol (rubbing alcohol), then wipe with a clean, dry end. I continue alternating wet/dry until the Q-tip stays clean.



When using Q-tips haven't you ever had them get caught by imperfections in the thread causing a wholesale ripping and tearing of the Q-tip? Then the cotton unravels and gets embedded in the threads.


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## mayo (Feb 28, 2007)

I use a micro fiber towel for cleaning. Works very well.


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## EssLight (Feb 28, 2007)

Uncle Bob said:


> When using Q-tips haven't you ever had them get caught by imperfections in the thread causing a wholesale ripping and tearing of the Q-tip? Then the cotton unravels and gets embedded in the threads.


I have not had that problem before. Occasionally a cotton fiber or two may come off and stick to the threads as I am working, a clean Q-tip wet with isopropanol usually picks it back up.

Um, just curious, how jagged does a thread have to be to cause "wholesale ripping and tearing"? Maybe a bit less pressure applied to the Q-tip would reduce the problem?

For the record, I am using generic cotton swabs, not name brand Q-tips, maybe what I use has less cotton on the tip and doesn't unravel as easy.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 28, 2007)

Thanks for all the replies guys. I did the first method that Gadgetnerd (sorry about that by the way ) gave me.


I have one more question though. 

I was wondering if the threads and O ringsthat are near the head of the light should be lubed. I ask this because my D Mini has threads on the head of the light and two O rings (one in front of the lens and one behind the threads near the front of the light). Should all of these threads be lubed and should both O rings be lubed up as well? I wasn't sure since that one O ring is in front of and touching the lens.

Thanks again


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## VidPro (Feb 28, 2007)

Illum_the_nation said:


> your lucky...silicone sprays i've used arent conductive, so if you accidently sprayed some into the contact regions at the end of the body and that stuff flowed in...your going to be looking at serious contact problems +
> 
> the spray nozzles like a fan almost, onces I used are recommended as for garage door openers...now, NYOGEL!




indeed it does go all over the place.
but i have had the opposite results, when sprayed on contacts, EVEN on battery contacts and batteries themselves, it stops the oxidations, and has kept the lights working better for longer. it even works great on switches, in switches, and in Pots even to keep them from burping.
i discovered it when we found out that "Tuner Cleaner" came in 2 styles, one was just a cleaner, the other was a cleaner lubricant, with silicoln.
the "tuner cleaner" with lubricant would work for years longer than the drying cleaner.

i know its non-conductive, and could not explain WHY it works on contacts that Require conduction, so i just assume that Oxidation, and metal ruboff, is worse than its insulation. (metal oxides are non-conductive or less conductive)

i wont use conductive junk because sometime some where, when you least expect it, a Amonnia, or solvent or something that frees up the conductor,used for cleaning, it will have it land somewhere i dont want it.
and if I am spraying silicoln spray , which is also a cleaner, willy nilly like i do, its sure to solvent a conductive lube, and cause it to travel to places where it is undesirable.

i guess it comes down to, which is worse, a non-conductive substance getting somewhere you dont want it, or a conductive substance getting where you dont want it.

i think the idea of putting conductive stuff on THREADS that need to conduct, is a good idea, i have just never had threads that did not already conduct well.


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## frogs3 (Feb 28, 2007)

I just cleaned a FIFTY year old Eveready 5 D cell Big Jim, using gadgetnerd's technique, and the end-cap as well as the reflector turn like butter now. The key with this old unit was to really get out the grit from the threads and work in the silicone. This was not easy for the end cap, as it contains a spring to hold the batteries firm, which comes out only when carefully urged.

This light, BTW, is the predecessor of the Mag series, and with fresh batteries and bulb still has a good throw.

For my newer lights, it looks like the simple method is the way to go as well. Lithium grease can be used, as I have read on these Forums that Inova puts that into their current models.

-HAK


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## Uncle Bob (Mar 1, 2007)

EssLight said:


> I have not had that problem before. Occasionally a cotton fiber or two may come off and stick to the threads as I am working, a clean Q-tip wet with isopropanol usually picks it back up.
> 
> Um, just curious, how jagged does a thread have to be to cause "wholesale ripping and tearing"? Maybe a bit less pressure applied to the Q-tip would reduce the problem?
> 
> For the record, I am using generic cotton swabs, not name brand Q-tips, maybe what I use has less cotton on the tip and doesn't unravel as easy.



I will probably try the methods recommended in this thread (Q-tips, paper/fiber towels) and see which works best. I've lubed my O-rings/threads before by just using my finger tip but haven't tried the "cleaning first" method by removing the O-ring and then replacing it.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Mar 2, 2007)

Thanks for all the great replies everyone!


Can someone answer my question about whether or not to lube the O ring that is in front of the lens in some lights? I'm asking specifically about the D Mini which has threads on the head of the light as well as two O rings (one in the top of the main head of the light behind the threads, and one in front of the lens in the bezel). Should these threads be lubed as well as both O rings? 

Thanks again


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## VidPro (Mar 3, 2007)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> Thanks for all the great replies everyone!
> 
> 
> Can someone answer my question about whether or not to lube the O ring that is in front of the lens in some lights? I'm asking specifically about the D Mini which has threads on the head of the light as well as two O rings (one in the top of the main head of the light behind the threads, and one in front of the lens in the bezel). Should these threads be lubed as well as both O rings?
> ...



Why not, mabey you dont do it reguarly, but stopping oxidation of rubber neopreme metal, all that stuff makes it last longer.
i assume you can keep it off the lens.


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## frogs3 (Mar 3, 2007)

Addendum about Silicone vs. Lithium Grease:

Since I have too much time to burn, I tried a couple of lights first with the isopropyl alcohol/silicone method. The alcohol really cleans the threads and gets out the old silicone. By the subjective method of "feel" I tested to see how smooth the action was with the silicone first, on clean threads, both old and new lights (bought within the last year), then repeated the process with the lithium grease. The lithium seemed to me, much smoother.

On the label of the lithium grease, it said that the contents were anti-oxidative, which I think is what we want, very stable and stated that it should not be mixed with other lubricant types. So, if you decide to switch, clean up thoroughly any older type of grease.

It was also interesting that the silicone tube -- about 1 oz. -- was double the price of a 350 oz can of lithium grease, a CRC product also from an auto supply house. I have enough to last for about a hundred lifetimes in a tightly sealed can. Of course, 1 oz. of silicone grease is a huge amount too.

So far as the O-rings, from what I have learned, clean with a non-shredding cloth that is just damp -- alchohol dries things out very well, sometimes too well -- then apply and work-in your grease of choice, the silicone has a good track record -- periodically. (see below for intervals).

So, my impression is that from what I read about Inova, and their use of lithium grease, suggests that this is what I will use in the threads after the complete cleaning process. How often? Inova recommends every 6 months for "average" use. My "guess" again, is that if you use your light in dirty conditions, the interval will need to be less. Let your fingers and the feel be your guide: YMWV.

Any feedback will be greatly appreciated, as we are all prisoners here of our own device.

Enjoy,

HAK


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## VidPro (Mar 3, 2007)

the "lab" geek is the one who introduced me to lithium greace, assuming he knows what he is doing. doesnt it lubricate based on particals? like grafite?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-based_grease
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease

but my tube of it seperated, it has to be mixed again to use it, the oily junk is seperating from the solid junk (PTFEs?) so i dont use it much.

dust and dirt is the reason i use the silicoln spray junk, its so thin it doesnt collect things, even on flat smooth surfaces where i have applied it, they are slick and yet dont collect stuff. but of course i am not going to re-do all my stuff every 6mo.
anybody being that attenative to the needs of the light, will get good results from whatever they do, its the elbow grease


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## InfidelCastro (Mar 3, 2007)

I go around the threads a couple of times with a toothpick, cleaning it off on a napkin as I go then wipe it down and apply Nyogel 760G around the threads and twist the tailcap off and on a couple times, this should lube the O-ring as well.

I don't see any reason to get more involved than that unless I drop it in a mud puddle.


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## frogs3 (Mar 4, 2007)

VidPro brings up a good point: I used a dry stick to mix the lithium grease in the can when I first opened it, as the oil was separated. It only took a minute or so to get it smooth and ready for use.

Another good point by InfidelCastro: How much time are we going to spend on our flashlights? This can get nuts real fast.

=HAK


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## kosPap (Mar 6, 2007)

frogs3 said:


> Another good point by InfidelCastro: How much time are we going to spend on our flashlights? This can get nuts real fast.
> 
> =HAK


 
Indeed I spent an afternoon removing the petroleum jelly from half my flashlights and putting Silica Oil on the threads.

2 helpful tips

- Use an old toothbrush to guide a no lint paper IN the threads.
- To remove the lube remnants I used a keybord etc foam cleaner that I had not much used of. It contains alcohol and other non oil dluters and is plastic safe too. Esay to aplly fast to work.

enjoy, kostas


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## Eskimonio (Apr 13, 2007)

Old photographer's tip for lint free cleaning of lenses (this will also solve a problem for some who worry about lint/debris during thread cleaning):

Use a disposable paper coffee filter as a lint-free option.


*Question:*

*Regarding Lithium Grease, which brand or part # are you guys buying?* The reason I ask is that every part store I've been to lately (Napa, Checker, AutoZone) have Lithium Grease for sale, but in reading the label of the container, it plainly displays "contains Petroleum Distillates" - which of course is a no-no for our O-Rings.


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## knot (Apr 13, 2007)

I was going to use anti-seize but silicon grease is the ticket eh?


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## Eskimonio (Apr 13, 2007)

That's the consensus so far...I've heard people say SILICON PLUMBER'S GREASE, so I went to home dep and picked up a small (carmex sized) tub of this stuff. Doesn't seem to me to be very lubricating...its texture reminds me of translucent Crisco, which is what leads me to want to explore Lithium Grease, but all products with that name I've seen so far contain petroleum.


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## knot (Apr 13, 2007)

This is from http://www.orderoutdoors.com/msr_2.html



> *Maintenance and Inspection*
> [*]All Seals (3)(6)(8),(14),(20), and all threads should have a light coat of oil or petroleum jelly applied every 6 months.
> [*]Check batteries for leaks or corrosion every 3 months. install positive (+) end toward lamp. Heavy Duty Alkaline batteries perform best with Mag-Lite® lamps.
> [*]Bright metal surfaces on Tailcap (21) and Barrel (16) must be free from any foreign substance that could impair electrical continuity.


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## Eskimonio (Apr 13, 2007)

Uh oh...


 



Keep your head close to your shoulders on that one, lest it be lopped off.

Petroleum Jelly or anything containing petroleum distillates has been *condemned ad* *infinitum* on these forums, and Mag endorsing it is not a valid proof-source for this group of flashlight aficionados.

I would guess if vaseline or some other lubricant ate your O-Rings, Mag would send you replacements, but I fall into the group that listens to the knowledge dropped on these forums and follows that advice unerringly.


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## GeorgePaul (Apr 13, 2007)

Eskimonio said:


> Petroleum Jelly or anything containing petroleum distillates has been *condemned ad* *infinitum* on these forums, ....


Which lubricant does not contain petroleum distillates?


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## Eskimonio (Apr 13, 2007)

:shrug:


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## knot (Apr 13, 2007)

Eskimonio said:


> Mag endorsing it is not a valid proof-source for this group of flashlight aficionados.



If Mag is endorsing it does that mean Maglites are lubricated with a petroleum product from the factory?


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## Lite_me (Apr 14, 2007)

Eskimonio said:


> :shrug:


I have some of that silicone grease above and don't like it. I use this that I picked up at Lowe's. It's much thinner, waterproof of course and made for rubber. It works great.


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## Illum (Apr 14, 2007)

Eskimonio said:


> ...which is what leads me to want to explore Lithium Grease, but all products with that name I've seen so far contain petroleum.



White lithium grease is [for some reason] not recommended for surefire lights but strongly recommended for inova lights.

some companies like Streamlight and dorcy [for some reason] doesnt seem to know what im talking about when I sent them emails inquiring whether nyogel's best for the light's o-rings


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## Eskimonio (Apr 14, 2007)

Lite Me - Thanks for the info on where you purchased the tube of Plumber's Grease. I'll give that a shot, as my only choice at Home Depot was the stuff in my picture that I don't really care for.

Illum - Thank you as well. I'm hoping someone from a previous post will put up a pic or at least more info on the name and place of purchase of whatever lithium grease they're using...all options I've seen so far have had petroleum in them.


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## TMorita (Apr 14, 2007)

GeorgePaul said:


> Which lubricant does not contain petroleum distillates?


 
For R/C helicopters, petroleum-based lubricants will melt the plastic gears, so we use Triflow lubricant. This is totally synthetic, and doesn't contain any petroleum products. Available at most bicycle shops.

Toshi


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## knot (Apr 14, 2007)

For threads would Teflon tape work? It may even help make it waterproof maybe? At any rate, it wouldn't be like a sticky grease that can collect grit.


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## guam9092 (Apr 16, 2007)

With some of the silicon grease used by CPFer's, where can I get the Nyogel 760g that is mentioned on some of the threads?


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## vee (Apr 16, 2007)

guam9092 said:


> With some of the silicon grease used by CPFer's, where can I get the Nyogel 760g that is mentioned on some of the threads?


 
i just got mine from www.lighthound.com. they have product #779 & #760. i sent an email to lighthound with which lights i had & they were able to suggest which lube to use. you can search for nyogel & there's a lot of great reading. good luck.


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## guam9092 (Apr 16, 2007)

vee said:


> i just got mine from www.lighthound.com. they have product #779 & #760. i sent an email to lighthound with which lights i had & they were able to suggest which lube to use. you can search for nyogel & there's a lot of great reading. good luck.



Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try.


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## PhotoWiz (Apr 26, 2007)

There seems to be an assumption in this thread that petro-based lubricants are a threat to o-rings. I'm not sure that's a correct assumption. It's certainly true that latex-based rubbers don't like petrochemicals (e.g. the warnings about use with condoms.) But I think most or all o-rings are NOT made of latex. More likely they are made from Neoprene or another specialty material. That's a whole different animal. 

So if the instructions with a Maglight say it's OK to use Vasoline or some other petroleum product, it's my guess that this is correct. There may be other reasons to prefer a silicone product, but I'd be real surprized if better chemical resistance is one of them.

Bill


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## Sarratt (Apr 27, 2007)

Now I'm confused ... I bought some silicone lubricant (thick paste stuff)and it seems to work well on my lights. (Mag, Fenix )
But should I be using a teflon lube instead?
I know the lube recommended for my bicycle is a teflon based one but it's very much a liquid not a ''grease". It's also petroleum based.


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## Minjin (Apr 28, 2007)

I just tried something on my Jetbeam I've never done before. Cleaned up the threads and instead of just using silicone, I pulled off the o-ring and applied Militec-1 to the threads. I've used M1 on guns and knives but I think this is the first time I've used it on flashlight threads. And it worked VERY WELL. Highly recommend this in conjunction with the silicone on the o-ring.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 29, 2007)

*TMorita*: _"we use Triflow lubricant. This is totally synthetic, and doesn't contain any petroleum products."_

When you say "synthetic" are you talking about a non-hydrocarbon based lubricant? Whay is it ... Krytox? Some kind of polymer?

I believe that for most rubber compounds, it's not the petroleum that's the problem, but solvents that keep it at a given consistency. These are what eats into cheap rubber ... but usually not the butyl rubber found in good o-rings.

I use to use white lithium grease (available everywhere in every imaginable form) but recently switched to Leslies' o-ring grease with Krytox. 

I usually just dab it on to threads and o-rings with my finger ... but carefully and sparingly.

If there is no o-ring and the threads are a bit loose, I will sometimes use teflon tape.


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## TxTroubleMaker (Apr 30, 2007)

Bror Jace said:


> I use to use white lithium grease (available everywhere in every imaginable form) but recently switched to Leslies' o-ring grease with Krytox.
> 
> I usually just dab it on to threads and o-rings with my finger ... but carefully and sparingly.



I'm using this same lube right now and to be honest, I'm not liking it at all. I thought that this stuff would be great because I could buy it locally and it has Krytox, but it makes the silicon o-rings in my McGizmo lights swell up making one handed operation pretty difficult.:thumbsdow Looking at the Krytox 50/50 that the Shoppe sells, this stuff is much thicker as well. I think I'll stick with the stuff that the Shoppe sells...


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## VidPro (Apr 30, 2007)

the problem with some petrolium products on rubber/neopreme is the solvent, i have seen some solvents blow up a o-ring like a baloon.
most of them oils/greace only dont ruin rubber/neopreme o-rings, but heck if you can read the label it oughta tell ya. lots of solvents will do strange things to rubber/neopreme.
you gotta figure that they use neopreme all over your car, if the products they are selling for automobiles would damage a gasket, it will be on the label.

you can test most anything with a spare oring, if a lot of black starts comming off your o-ring , then it probably is breaking it down , instead of helping it.


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## LuxLuthor (Apr 30, 2007)

Nyogel is "The Smart Grease" It must be since they grabbed that URL domain.

Here is an actual 3 minute video for all you grease monkeys.

Whee....look at all the CPF Nyogel threads.


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## EDcLED (Apr 30, 2007)

All this talk sure has me wondering. Are O rings all made of the same stuff I wonder? As an x lonely Maytag man (my lights keep me company now) I keep thinking of the O ring on the bottom of the transmission around the shaft which is the only thing keeping the 90 weight transmission oil from ending up on the floor. Not knowing alot but assuming the oil is a pure petrolium product the O rings seem to be oblivious to petrolium in that case.


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## Codeman (Apr 30, 2007)

No, they aren't. ORingsWest has a decent explanation of the various materials/properties. Click the "Rubber Materials" tab on the right hand side of the page.


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## frogs3 (Apr 30, 2007)

*Re: Lithium Grease*

FYI:

CRC brand Sta-Lube Super White lithium grease ($3 for 14 oz., 397 gm. in an auto supply store) contains: "Mineral Oil (Heavy), Lithium Soap, Zinc Oxide, Calcium dinonyl-naphthalene Sulfonate and Titanium Dioxide". If you want more info their no. is 800-521-3168. No petroleum distillates listed on the label. Part No. SL 3151

This is what I use for the Inova's that I (we) own as well as my vintage pieces. When I get a Mag, it will be treated with this as well. Isopropyl alcohol takes it off, making it easy to keep threads clean.

Hope this helps.

HAK


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## Dutch (Apr 30, 2007)

I use Denatured Alcohol and a 100% cotton 'sack cloth' to clean the threads. Lint is not much of an issue with the smooth, wet, cloth. The DA evaporates quickly. If there appears to be any lint or dusty aftermath, a quick blast with canned air leaves everything perfect.

I then use a round, wooden, toothpick 'dipped' lightly into my Nyogel. I can then gently apply the lube directly to the areas needed by 'dabbing.' It doesn't have to be perfectly uniform because screwing the components together will spread the product evenly.

As the components are almost all the way together, I'll watch for excess lube and remove it.

Voila!

Dutch


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## Bror Jace (Apr 30, 2007)

_"I'm using this same lube right now (Leslies' o-ring lube) and to be honest, I'm not liking it at all. I thought that this stuff would be great because I could buy it locally and it has Krytox, but it makes the silicon o-rings in my McGizmo lights swell up making one handed operation pretty difficult."_

*TXTroubleMaker*, that's hard to believe. I mean, I _believe_ you but those must be fairly odd/exotic o-rings as the grease is sold to be compatible with plastic and rubber pool equipment, _especially o-rings_. I'd think marketing it as "flashlight grease" would make it a smash hit but what do I know?)

Anyway, I'm surprised to hear it reacts with a silicon o-ring. I've used this stuff on dozens of lights ... no ill effects to date.

If I were you, I'd also stick with the new grease you found. Until I have a problem with the Leselies grease, I'm sticking with it. One tube will last a decade or more.


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