# Battery rattle



## pabst (Dec 15, 2009)

i am new to the forum so excuse me if i am posting in the wrong section or if this has already been discussed.

in a few of my lights the batteries rattle around because they are a bit skinnier than the light. so i was wondering what i could wrap the batteries in to hold them tighter. i guess what i am asking is there materials to stay away from? is paper fine? what do you use?

thanks.


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## Billy Ram (Dec 15, 2009)

If your light is bored for 18650s you can use the battery sleave for cr123s and do away with the rattle.
Billy


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## Billy Berue (Dec 15, 2009)

A lot of folks (perhaps most), including me, just use paper. I used to be on the lookout for a more "elegant" solution, but I have since come the conclusion that paper is very effective, cheap, and easily adaptable to various shapes, sizes, and thicknesses, depending on the requirements of that particular situation.


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## pabst (Dec 15, 2009)

thanks for the quick replies. yeh my light takes 18650 and cr123 so the boring is the problem...and paper is the solution!


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## pathalogical (Dec 15, 2009)

How about some masking tape. One wrap around your battery with no overlapping might do the trick. Adding extra thickness may make it difficult to get the battery out, if it doesn't slide in on its own, don't push it in !


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## Oddjob (Dec 15, 2009)

Paper for me as well for small shimming. For more width I actually cut some of the thin cardboard from a toilet paper roll. I did this so that my 17650 cells are snug in my 18650 Ra Twisty tube.


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## bstrickler (Dec 15, 2009)

I made my own battery sleeve for my 6P with PVC tube + my manual lathe. Took me a few hours to do, because I'm anal about it being the right size. It works amazingly well for RCR123's, but CR123's are still a little small, and rattle a little bit inside the battery sleeve, but it's better than no sleeve.

~Brian


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## garilla (Dec 15, 2009)

sometimes all it takes is a strip of thicker than paper like what comes on glossy magazine covers. Just don't make it so tight you have to jam the batteries in, it might be hard to get them out. A little loosness is always good.


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## 45/70 (Dec 15, 2009)

I'm one of the paper crowd. It's cheap, easy to do, and easily replaceable, as well. At one time, I tried the masking tape route. The problem with that is, eventually you'll end up with "sticky" all over the inside of your battery tube. This is even more pronounced if your light gets warm in use.

Dave


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## TooManyGizmos (Dec 15, 2009)

Plastic notebook sheet protectors and or dividers .

Better than paper if your batteries leak or swell up.

Easier to get the bad batt's out . ) paper just jams em in there !)
.


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## 45/70 (Dec 15, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Plastic notebook sheet protectors and or dividers .
> 
> Better than paper if your batteries leak or swell up.
> 
> ...




Ah, but paper absorbs the "goo" better. Sort of a built in sponge! 

Then again, I generally don't use batteries that leak. 

Dave


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## TooManyGizmos (Dec 15, 2009)

But plastic is slick , less friction , and allows easier removal .

Try it .... you'll like it better !
.


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## pabst (Dec 15, 2009)

i cut about 2cm off the long end of a business card, rolled it up, slid it in, and it works perfectly. the batteries slide back out with a flick of the wrist.


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## bwall85 (Jul 1, 2010)

*battery rattle solution?*

Yeah, it's my first post. I've lurked here for a while and done some reading, but never posted. Lots of great info here!

I recently received a Jetbeam M1X w/ cell extender as a gift and while there is no problem with the function, there is some battery rattle with the extender installed.

I'm currently using surefire 4 123a batteries. I was wondering if I wrapped a little electrical or duct tape around the middle of a battery or two would be a big problem? I tried it and it did fix the rattle, but I didn't keep it in there because I don't want to use it a lot if I wasn't sure it was safe. It doesn't touch either end, its just like about a .5 inch wide strip of duct tape wrapped around the middle.

Thanks!


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## Hondo (Jul 2, 2010)

*Re: battery rattle solution?*

What you are describing will work fine. A more permanent solution, and easier, is to cut a piece of paper the length of the tube and roll it up and insert it in the tube. You can trim the width of the paper until there is just enough space for the batteries to slip in. The paper should stay put during battery changes, and when used in lights with alkaline batteries will cut down on some of the damage when (not if) the cells leak.

And, Welcome to CPF, bwall85! :wave:


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## VidPro (Jul 2, 2010)

*Re: battery rattle solution?*

and put your name and address on the paper, in the event that someone would return your light if discovered lost.


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## photonstorm (Jul 2, 2010)

*Re: battery rattle solution?*

your rolled up business card may work as an anti-rattle and ID solution


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## core (Jul 2, 2010)

*Re: battery rattle solution?*



VidPro said:


> and put your name and address on the paper, in the event that someone would return your light if discovered lost.



Or come burglarize your place now that they know you lost your gun mounted light. oo:

j/k that's a good idea actually. Thanks for the tip.


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## twdant (Sep 27, 2011)

*Battery Rattle Fix?*

My new Dereelight uses 2xRCR123s and it's great, but the battery rattle is annoying as heck. I was thinking about wrapping the batteries in cardboard or duct tape to make them fit tighter. Will that cause any issues with regard to heat?


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## twdant (Sep 27, 2011)

*Re: Battery Rattle Fix?*

Problem solved: Duck tape. As they say, if you can't Duck it...


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## shao.fu.tzer (Sep 27, 2011)

*Re: Battery Rattle Fix?*

I was going to suggest o-rings, rubber bands, rolled up paper...


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## AaronG (Sep 27, 2011)

*Re: Battery Rattle Fix?*

I've got rolled up paper in my solarforce L2P. Rolled cardstock would probably work better because once it takes the shape you can just leave it in there.


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## tam17 (Sep 27, 2011)

*Re: Battery Rattle Fix?*

My favourite anti-rattle device shapes (most of my lights are AAA and AA single-cell):







Material is PET sheet, scavenged from plastic bottles. Sometimes it's a laminate so you can adjust the thickness.

Cheers,

Tam


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## jamesmtl514 (Sep 27, 2011)

*Re: Battery Rattle Fix?*

painters tape. easier to take off than duct tape.


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## Lightfoot98 (Sep 27, 2011)

*Re: Battery Rattle Fix?*

I use card stock paper.


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## DM51 (Sep 27, 2011)

*Re: Battery Rattle Fix?*

Some previous threads on this topic:

Anti-rattle battery tubing??? 
battery rattle solution? 
Battery rattle 
Duct tape silences flashlight battery rattle! 
Okay to use paper to prevent battery rattle? 
Battery Rattle Question

And about 60 more like that...


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## HotWire (Sep 28, 2011)

*Re: Battery Rattle Fix?*

I have a custom light that rattles standard batteries. I bought felt pads at Wal Mart and stuck them on two sets of batteries just for that light. Totally silent. They slide in and out of the light perfectly. If I would need the batteries for other lights, the felt pads peel right off.


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## SimulatedZero (May 23, 2012)

*To rattle or not to rattle?*

I was thinking earlier about whether or not I should try and reduce the battery rattle in some of my lights. All of my lights rattle if you shake them hard enough, but some rattle worse than other, like my TK41 for example. I was thinking about how to do this when it occurred to me that the rattle may be a good thing. If you drop the light, the extra movement may help spread the force of the impact out of more time. That would reduce the amount of force seen at any one point in time. I realize that it wouldn't be much of a time difference, but you don't need a huge difference in the time to substantially reduce the force. That brings the question to mind of whether or not it is good to have the batteries in your lights rattle or not. Would my TK41's battery carrier be safer with the rubber bands I have around it? Or without? Or any light's battery carrier for that matter. I feel like this argument can go both ways which is why I wanted some of your opinions on the matter.


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## qwertyydude (May 23, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

Side to side rattle is technically worse than a tight fit. The reason is you have no cushioning for the high impact of accelerating and then decelerating on hitting the edge of the light. It's the same reason why seatbelts are better than just flying forward and hitting the dashboard. Putting rubber bands or even just immobilizing the batteries would be better than them striking the hard body.


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## SimulatedZero (May 24, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

Sticking to the car analogy, wouldn't making the battery a tight fit be the same thing as making sure the driver is wedged in between the steering wheel and the seat. Sure, the driver doesn't get slammed around in the car, but two things wrong with that. 1. The driver still decelerates as quickly as he would with out being wedged, and depending on the rate of deceleration, it could be fatal. 2. The force of the impact translates through the vehicle. That means that the driver still feels the force of the hit as though he had hit the object himself. Granted some of the force is absorbed along the way, but not enough to make a difference. 

So perhaps the friction caused by the tension the battery is under by the spring(s) acts like the seat belt in the car. Some of the force that battery would have felt is used to break the friction with the light and thus spreads the force out over more time, like a seat belt, slowing the overall rate of deceleration and lowering the amount of force felt at the cell. The lights that I have seen that have two springs generally have a tiny bit of space off to either side of the battery. This allows the springs to do the most good by letting them take the recoil and spread the force out over more time than they otherwise would. If the cell touched the sides it would still get the initial impact, thus mostly negating the usefulness of the springs.


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## ev13wt (May 24, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

As stated by querty dude, rattle is worse than tight fit. The best would be to wrap the batteries in a very thin rubber like heat sinking pad so that they barely fit. Heat tranfer plus vibration management in one! Berquist makes stuff like that, not sure if they have it under 0.5 mm though.


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## SimulatedZero (May 24, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

To be honest, I suspect it is better to have a tight fit. What I am hoping, is that someone here can explain why that is so. Why is it better to absorb the force translated through the host than it is to absorb the force diluted by the gap?


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## jorn (May 24, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

I think the force will be the same. It got mass in motion, and it stops. Energy got to go somewhere, and it wont end up storing the energy inside the light , even with rcr 

Kind of similar to the: "will it help to jump in a falling elevator, just before impact" tested by mythbuster. (jumping wont help) Kind of the same situation.


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## ev13wt (May 24, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

The thing is that after the body hits, the batteries will continue to travel. Since they will then hit the body at some random angle, all the force of the batteries (speed + weight of batteries) will be transferred to a single point on the body of the battery. This contact force will be much higher than if the cells would decelerate snugly in the body. Then there is no point contact, thus the battery case will not be subjected to this high force. In the first case, since batteries are built from cells and sometimes a small pcb, things might shift, effectively destroying the battery.

All in all I think you would need to drop the light from hundreds of feet for any of this to really matter.


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## SimulatedZero (May 24, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*



ev13wt said:


> The thing is that after the body hits, the batteries will continue to travel. Since they will then hit the body at some random angle, all the force of the batteries (speed + weight of batteries) will be transferred to a single point on the body of the battery.



I knew I was forgetting something, I completely forgot that the battery would hit at an angle, thus increasing the amount of force on a single point. In this case I was thinking about how well my TK41's battery carrier would hold up more than the batteries. Batteries are far less expensive than trying to replace that battery holder. Thanks for clearing it up for me, ev13wt.


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## jorn (May 24, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

Hit at an angle? youre using aaa cells in a d-cell light or something?


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## SimulatedZero (May 24, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*



jorn said:


> Hit at an angle? youre using aaa cells in a d-cell light or something?



For the most part batteries and battery holders are flat. Battery holders less so than batteries but close enough. Granted, there are imperfections in the surface and deviation from cell to cell, but for the most part they are consistent enough to be called flat. Because they are flat, if they so much as shift a micro degree it will cause one point along the cell to absorb all the force instead of the entire side of the cell. In this case half, or even a quarter, of a millimeter of movement would be more than enough to cause the cell to hit at an angle. If there is no space between the battery and the flashlight, the force will be translated across the entire surface of the cell .Thus, reducing the amount of force felt on any one section of the cell.


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## jorn (May 24, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*



> Because they are flat, if they so much as shift a micro degree it will cause one point along the cell to absorb all the force instead of the entire side of the cell.


 Maby in teory. I still dont think it makes no difference. 
Lets say you are drifting sideways in high speed with your car, loose control, and hit a building at 89,99 degrees. Will the first part of the car that hits the house absorb all the energy of the crash? Or will the whole side of the car be pretty mutch be banged up when it hits and the rear swings over the last microdegree.? It would make no difference if you were crashing at a perfect 90 degree. The sudden stop is the destructive factor.


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## ev13wt (May 25, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

A car is not flat, nor is it structurally the same along its axis. 

A straight head on collision into a wall at 15mph, compared to an angled collision at 15mph, what would do more damage? As in what would deform the entire car more, inches wise to a certain area?

Hitting straight on will crush the bumper evenly.
Hitting at an angle will crush it more on one side, probably extending the damage into the lights, hood and fender.


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## SimulatedZero (May 25, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*



ev13wt said:


> A car is not flat, nor is it structurally the same along its axis.
> 
> A straight head on collision into a wall at 15mph, compared to an angled collision at 15mph, what would do more damage? As in what would deform the entire car more, inches wise to a certain area?
> 
> ...



+1

I have been meaning to sit down and calculate the newtons of force felt along the length of the batteries and battery carrier vs the amount of force felt along the corner, but I can't find my scale so I don't have the right weight measurements... Does anybody know the weight of a Streamlight CR123 or Sanyo Eneloop AA?

As soon as I can get those I will plug the values into three equations, F=ma (force), N=kg(m/s^2) (force converted to weight), and p=F/A (force over surface area). Those will tell me how much the batteries would feel in various circumstances. Unfortunately I can't test for how much is bled off by the gap plus spring tension because I don't have any way to measure the time difference in impacts or the amount of force with the individual impacts. I.E. the force the flashlight hit the ground with and then the force the battery hit the inside of the flashlight with.





jorn said:


> Maby in teory. I still dont think it makes no difference.
> Lets say you are drifting sideways in high speed with your car, loose control, and hit a building at 89,99 degrees. Will the first part of the car that hits the house absorb all the energy of the crash? Or will the whole side of the car be pretty mutch be banged up when it hits and the rear swings over the last microdegree.? It would make no difference if you were crashing at a perfect 90 degree. The sudden stop is the destructive factor.



Also +1 because it brings to mind a valid point. Regardless of where the car impacts, it's the rapid deceleration that kills the occupants. So another question would be how much cumulative force can a battery cell or battery carrier handle with out deformation? Would it make a difference in the end whether or not the battery/battery carrier hits on the corner or the flat side because it would break either way? (That question, and really most of these, apply more towards battery carriers as they will fail from impact force long before a battery will.)


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## Yamabushi (May 25, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*



SimulatedZero said:


> Does anybody know the weight of a Streamlight CR123 or Sanyo Eneloop AA?




Four samples of each size weighed on my digital powder scale which is accurate to 0.0005 ounce:

Surefire CR123 
0.5795, 0.5810, 0.5815, 0.5830 ounce

Duracell "Made in Japan" White top
0.9155, 0.9190, 0.9230, 0.9050 ounce


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## Rossta76 (May 25, 2012)

I suggest putting a bit of blue painter's tape on the battery. This cured the battery rattle on my Preon2. I can often just move the tape over from the old cells to the replacements as needed.


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## bladesmith3 (May 26, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

look, it just plain feels and sounds better without the rattle.


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## jorn (May 26, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*



bladesmith3 said:


> look, it just plain feels and sounds better without the rattle.


No doubt.


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## ev13wt (May 26, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*



bladesmith3 said:


> look, it just plain feels and sounds better without the rattle.



Hey sis iiis highly important subjeekt, stop wif sis logik ja?


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## HotWire (May 27, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

Rattle is not a good thing. On the few lights that I experience rattle, I put just enough black electricians tape on the batteries to keep them quiet. On one light I rolled thin cardboard to reduce the diameter of the tube. On others I found (just lucky) various plastic/rubber pipe material at hardware stores to retain a snug hold on the batteries. I'm sure there are many other fixes for the rattle problem.


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## jorn (May 27, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

I just put 3-4-5 layers of tape on the inside ot the tube. It wont come out when youre changing batts.


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## JemR (May 27, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*



SimulatedZero said:


> All of my lights rattle if you shake them hard enough



Who wants their flashlight battery's to rattle? My brain will rattle if you shake me hard enough! I'm sorry SimulatedZero & everyone, my apologies  Just kidding. In fact, the brain is protected by the skull, the 3 layers of meninges and the cerebrospinal fluid, so it kind of floats and is cushioned and so there is not an empty gap for it to rattle about in. To my mind a battery that is just slightly smaller than the tube and the addition of a surrounding cushion is maybe the best of all worlds. Some what like an air bag would be in the car analogy early in the tread. So I would tape it, wrap it, do something. Stop the rattle, it can't be good in the long run, the battery's on the move. Hard knocks will damage the battery (& light) as the brain will be damaged, those knocks are to be avoided!


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## BIGLOU (May 28, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

I dont have a TK41 or a flashlight with a carrier but I had posted this thread to fix the rattle on bored flashlights when using CR123s. I hope it helps. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...for-rattling-of-CR123-RCR123s-in-a-bored-body


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## fyrstormer (May 31, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

0.5mm of slack space isn't going to make any difference at all in a drop. The batteries may impact the inside of the tube at a random angle because they can move around a bit, but the _range_ of angles is so narrow that no engineer would waste time calculating the possible differences in force distribution.

Tie your flashlight to your wrist with a lanyard if you don't want to risk it. If you do want to risk it, don't worry about a bit of battery movement, I promise it will make no difference compared to the damage caused by dropping your flashlight at ANY angle.


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## ev13wt (May 31, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

Its not the range of angle, angle is angle and with a degree of angle all the force will be transfered to a point.

The "point" is just that batteries are pretty robust and in a drop it just doesn't matter. To break the batteries you need to be traveling 120 mph plus and throw the light against a brick wall. Maybe you can break a battery inside a light that way.


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## Sintro (May 31, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

An impulse is a force exerted on an object over a time period. Since the total energy in the system will be the same always (lets just say it's kinetic for now),* as time increases, the force exerted per second goes down. *Because of this, yes, in theory with only this variable changing, having the battery case rattling should decrease the amount of force exerted per second, thereby reducing the stress on the components of the light at a given time after impact. Though, you have to factor in the other factors. What if you even put bubble wrap in the battery casing area, and the downward force required to break the driver is 5 N, and when the flashlight hits concrete, it ends of exerting 20 N of force on the driver itself. And the bubble wrap reduces the force to 10 N on the driver, *you'd still be screwed.* 

I would personally just fill the ones that noticeably rattle with some paper till they don't rattle loudly; *and just not worry about it.

Look at cars and their crumple zones, they have all that kinetic energy going into the crumple zones and not you, but those crumple zones have a waaaaay bigger ratio of length to the car body its trying to preserve, than from the small gap in the battery housing to the whole flashlight. It's just so negligible impact time gain that it would hardly make a difference. 

BUT, maybe I'm wrong, If only someone would spend the thousands required to do a thorough test on this.
*


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## fyrstormer (May 31, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*



ev13wt said:


> Its not the range of angle, angle is angle and with a degree of angle all the force will be transfered to a point.


It does matter, because even if the force is exerted on the rim of the battery, a shallower angle will require the battery to indent less in order to spread the force over a larger area. As a result, the force is less likely to indent the shell of the battery enough to permanently deform it. 0.5mm of slack space won't allow the battery to rotate enough to get dented on the corner from falling a reasonable distance.


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## SimulatedZero (Jun 1, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*



Sintro said:


> An impulse is a force exerted on an object over a time period. Since the total energy in the system will be the same always (lets just say it's kinetic for now),* as time increases, the force exerted per second goes down. *Because of this, yes, in theory with only this variable changing, having the battery case rattling should decrease the amount of force exerted per second, thereby reducing the stress on the components of the light at a given time after impact. Though, you have to factor in the other factors. What if you even put bubble wrap in the battery casing area, and the downward force required to break the driver is 5 N, and when the flashlight hits concrete, it ends of exerting 20 N of force on the driver itself. And the bubble wrap reduces the force to 10 N on the driver, *you'd still be screwed.*
> 
> I would personally just fill the ones that noticeably rattle with some paper till they don't rattle loudly; *and just not worry about it.
> 
> ...



+1 times 5

You leave your own thread for a few days and look what happens :shakehead... Just messin, I do appreciate people's suggestions for eliminating rattle and there are a couple of nifty ideas there. The original point of this thread, though, was to ascertain why rattle was bad. Most people, myself included, automatically assume that rattle is a bad thing. I was curious to see if there was any validity to that assumption and, as it turns out, there is. Rattle, theoretically, could cause the batteries in a light to fail faster from being dropped. But, by the time that happens, the light itself would have long since passed its failing point. However, I think that this may still apply to lights similar to the Fenix TK41. The TK41 battery carrier has enough mass that a short drop could break it without harming the electronics of the light. While it wouldn't make a difference to a small light that doesn't have a battery carrier, it would probably be prudent to continue to wrap my TK41's battery carrier with rubber bands. And Sintro, that was an excellent job at concisely summarizing things. As I'm sure you've noticed, I tend to ramble.

And to those of you curious as to why I started this thread when it seems so obvious that battery rattle is bad, one of the best ways to prove a hypothesis or theory is to try to disprove it. If you fail to disprove it, then there is a good chance that it holds true. I shot a challenge at the rattle is bad theory and it held up. For the most part. Granted it wasn't much of a challenge, but it was enough to satisfy my curiosity on the matter.


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## Lynx_Arc (Jun 1, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

For the most part batteries tend to have two contact points where the force ends up applied to it: the top button (or face for flattops) and bottom edge. Unless a light is extremely sloppy in rattle the amount of force that is transferred to the sides of the battery is typically related to the resistance of the battery covering/shell and the inner lining of the light or plastic carrier which is essentially friction related. At the angle of the battery edges the amount of force that could damage a battery outside edge is minimal you could use trigonometry to show this as such if you want to but a fraction of a degree may at the worst cause wear on the top or bottom edge of the battery itself and typically battery coverings are robust enough that the resistance of the covering negates this. I would say a battery that would be damaged by a drop other than the top and bottom edges would have to have an impact great enough to probably cripple the light itself most likely destroying it at some level and batteries on the average are a lot cheaper than lights. My advice if rattle bothers you then shim the batteries with whatever. I didn't notice battery rattle on my LD01ss light but did wrap a piece of post it note around it with my name and phone number and an offer for reward for return to me in case the light got loose from my keychain or even the whole keychain was lost (or stolen even).


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## Slazmo (Jun 1, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*

I stick some seletape around my alkalines in my AA and D size Mag's, I am finding that the difference between Energizer and Duracell and some other brands in their size varies heaps - some batteries sound like rocks in a alloy tube and the others are super tight and silent.

Always would rather tight fitting batteries, anything that moves is asking for trouble.


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## JemR (Jun 1, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*



Lynx_Arc said:


> wrap a piece of post it note around it with my name and phone number and an offer for reward for return to me in case the light got loose from my keychain or even the whole keychain was lost (or stolen even).



Sorry Lynx_Arc. With respect & concern. Reverse phone lookup technology makes this not a very good idea. You may end up being robbed twice, if your house or car keys are attached.


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## Lynx_Arc (Jun 1, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*



JemR said:


> Sorry Lynx_Arc. With respect & concern. Reverse phone lookup technology makes this not a very good idea. You may end up being robbed twice, if your house or car keys are attached.


And I could possibly be traced through the aftermarket remote also if someone was a clever thief too. I am willing to risk the slight chance a thief would want to spend money to see if a reverse lookup place has my address listed. I have yet to lose house or car keys but I have lost other things that were attached to keychains.


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## JemR (Jun 2, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*



Lynx_Arc said:


> And I could possibly be traced through the aftermarket remote also if someone was a clever thief too. I am willing to risk the slight chance a thief would want to spend money to see if a reverse lookup place has my address listed. I have yet to lose house or car keys but I have lost other things that were attached to keychains.




Hmm.. Yes well. Maybe for the more relaxed in society you could simply: Find lost keychain or bag, read enclosed note, ring the number, agree return for tomorrow, then steal Car & TV today. Or copy the keys, bring a large van and empty home or business next week.

This is a serious post, as was my last, showing the very real problem of crime too many people live with today. I am sorry to go off topic.


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## SimulatedZero (Jun 2, 2012)

*Re: To rattle or not to rattle?*



JemR said:


> Hmm.. Yes well. Maybe for the more relaxed in society you could simply: Find lost keychain or bag, read enclosed note, ring the number, agree return for tomorrow, then steal Car & TV today. Or copy the keys, bring a large van and empty home or business next week.
> 
> This is a serious post, as was my last, showing the very real problem of crime too many people live with today. I am sorry to go off topic.



Serious post or not it is still his decision as to whether or not the risks out weigh the benefits of his actions. As to whether or not putting his number is helpful to him or not greatly depends on where he lives. I don't know much about where either of you live but down here people are generally friendly enough to just return whatever you lost. I have had my wallet and my phone returned to me, and with nothing missing from my wallet I might add. People down here are more likely to call him then to rob him. To each there own. Hopefully that's settled now.


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## Brian900 (Jan 3, 2013)

*Wrapping batteries with tape - good idea?*

Thoughts on wrapping batteries with tape to reduce clearance between batteries and inner diameter of light housing for a more "solid" feel?

I have a fenix pd32 and can hear the batteries hitting against the I.d. of the barrel occasionally. Kind of a cheap sound. I figure if I can wrap the batteries with electrical tape I can reduce the sound and have a more solid feeling light. 

Thoughts?


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## jonnyfgroove (Jan 3, 2013)

*Re: Wrapping batteries with tape - good idea?*

Just use a piece of printer paper or thin cardboard (if necessary) rolled up in the battery tube. Works well and seems to last a long time too.


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## LilKevin715 (Jan 3, 2013)

*Re: Wrapping batteries with tape - good idea?*

Tape works fine. You could also insert a paper business card inside the tube as well so that you don't have to keep wrapping batteries.


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## enomosiki (Jan 3, 2013)

*Re: Wrapping batteries with tape - good idea?*

If you want a more permanent solution, you can get the Delrin sleeves. Oveready sells them.


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## Illum (Jan 3, 2013)

*Re: Battery Rattle Fix?*



twdant said:


> Problem solved: Duck tape. As they say, if you can't Duck it...



Paper + heat = paper
Duck tape + heat = gooey mess

Dunno about you, but in my experience some batteries get hot with extended use. Last thing I want is batteries to be "frozen" in a flashlight body when time comes to replace them.


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## Lynx_Arc (Jan 3, 2013)

*Re: Battery Rattle Fix?*

a post it note cut down works also for battery rattle


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## SimulatedZero (Jan 3, 2013)

*Re: Wrapping batteries with tape - good idea?*



enomosiki said:


> If you want a more permanent solution, you can get the Delrin sleeves. Oveready sells them.



Aren't those sleeves only 16mm wide? That would make them good for CR123's, but not for 18650's.


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## uv-jim (Mar 24, 2014)

I rotate different sets of rechargeable batteries around and sometime do a refresh or break-in with my MH-C9000, a good charger. I have tried tape and found them being installed into devices that don't tolerate a 'fat' battery very well. I don't marry any particular batteries to a flashlight or remote or ... anything.

As mentioned, using toilet paper tubes and paper towel tubes cut to be a poor-man's battery sleeve or shim works well for me. I do have a headlamp that I have used masking tape to bulk up the battery compartment, that is the only thing I still have taped.

Odd that battery sleeves are not something readily available.


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## ThirstyTurtle (Sep 7, 2014)

*How To Eliminate Battery Rattle for Free*

Hey everyone, made a quick video last night of how I eliminate battery rattle in all of my lights. It's simple and pretty much free, just need a sticky note. This works on any cells, in any light. It's easily undone if you your cells rattle in some lights and not others. A piece of tape would make it semi-permanent if you only use certain cells in certain lights. Hope you enjoy!


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## markr6 (Sep 7, 2014)

*Re: How To Eliminate Battery Rattle for Free*

Yeah I posted that regarding my SC62d. I had some bare samsung cells that were a little too narrow.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-SC32d-SC62d&p=4432888&viewfull=1#post4432888

That's why I only purchase NCR18650B button top cells from now on. They have a button for lights that require them (many Eagletacs, Im sure there are others) and the wrapping to hold the button top makes them a little thicker to kill the rattle. Yet they're short enough for all lights.


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## ThirstyTurtle (Sep 7, 2014)

*Re: How To Eliminate Battery Rattle for Free*

I use mostly NCR18650PF'S because they're high-drain and work excellently in all my Vinh lights, they are a bit narrower than my other cells though.


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## reppans (Sep 8, 2014)

*Re: How To Eliminate Battery Rattle for Free*

I also use Post-Its for battery rattle.... except in a reverse configuration, I just stick it to the battery tube wall and leave it in there.


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## ThirstyTurtle (Sep 8, 2014)

*Re: How To Eliminate Battery Rattle for Free*



reppans said:


> I also use Post-Its for battery rattle.... except in a reverse configuration, I just stick it to the battery tube wall and leave it in there.


Well that's smart!


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## SimulatedZero (Sep 8, 2014)

Good heavens, this thread again. Why do I always try to start trouble, lol. 

Good idea with the post-it notes :thumbsup:


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