# What would be the best wires to use ? and where to buy ? ..



## johntalley (Mar 4, 2013)

Hello .............. 

I have a box truck for carpet cleaning all kinds of led lights going in the back and strobe lights out side for when I'm parked on main streets to keep cars from hitting me again ..

Box is 15 feet long 
dome lights .. light bars .. and 1 27 watt spot light 

Thanks for your help ... John-


----------



## Optical Inferno (Mar 5, 2013)

Are all the lights LED or are any of them halogen or xenon strobe? for LED systems (depending on how you wire them) you could get away with 16-18AWG wire for that run. If you lightbar is large (ie. wider than 24") or not LED, you may need some larger 14AWG wire. Remember to spread your connections out and not draw from a single point as you could overload some of the vehicles existing wiring.

You could always take your vehicle to an upfitter who should be able to recommend the correct wire.


----------



## SemiMan (Mar 5, 2013)

johntalley said:


> Hello ..............
> 
> I have a box truck for carpet cleaning all kinds of led lights going in the back and strobe lights out side for when I'm parked on main streets to keep cars from hitting me again ..
> 
> ...




Probably better spots on the web to ask about automotive wiring than here, but one thing to consider is that while your goal of not being hit again is of course valid, on the other hand, you cannot become a distraction and a hazard yourself. Depending on where you live, there could be restrictions on using a strobe light for instance. The automotive forum here has some experts that can help you with that.

I believe SAEJ1128 is the U.S. spec for automotive wire, but can't remember if that cover multiple conductor cable.

Two biggest issues you run into with wiring failure though are corroded connections and abrasion from rubbing which is common in automotive high vibration environments. That means:

- Seal connections where you can.
- Tie-Wrap, mount, etc. cables so they move as little as possible. Where you pass through any wall, use something to protect from sharp edges. Use loom for added protection and as a nice way to bundle wires together.

It is a common misconception that solder connections are the most reliable, but a good crimp connection (proper tool for the crimp) is a better connection as it is more tolerant of bending and flexing without providing a stress point.

Semiman


----------



## johntalley (Mar 5, 2013)

Great info .. Thanks so much .. 

they are all led lights will have sep controls for all lights wlil just have on the ones I need ( i have to park crazy ways to run hose in and out of place I'm working ) .. 

They are small for the most part and just green and white ,, I know I cant have red or blue ..


----------



## SemiMan (Mar 5, 2013)

johntalley said:


> Great info .. Thanks so much ..
> 
> they are all led lights will have sep controls for all lights wlil just have on the ones I need ( i have to park crazy ways to run hose in and out of place I'm working ) ..
> 
> They are small for the most part and just green and white ,, I know I cant have red or blue ..




- You can have red selectively just like flashing tail lights. There are some people in the automotive forum here who know more about that than anyone you are likely to find on the web (anywhere), and likely know no matter where you live. Truly a great resource. I have learned a lot of the standards for the lights over time, but my knowledge has generally been on the implementation side.


I spent a number of years putting semi-custom equipment into transportation equipment and a bunch of years on industrial controls. I think I have seen every way a wire or connection will fail ... and they do! Never underestimate the value of a $200 crimp tool (and if only some of them were that cheap). For standard automotive butt connectors, there are some better crimpers in the $100 range. My favorite connectors are the heat sealable crimp connectors. Simple, and very reliable. Don't scrimp on wire either, buy something from somewhere reputable that is designed for automotive. Doing it right may cost another $100 or $200 but is going to save you untold amounts of time on repairs (usually behind a sealed bulkhead!).

Semiman


----------

