# A run of TI E Series Electronic Switches with custom trit button . Interested?



## smarkum (Jul 19, 2012)

E Series Electronic Switches with custom Ti trit buttons. . .
Wondering what you CPF'ers think -

If you'd be interested in one or 5 E Series Electronic Swithces with custom Ti trit buttons, let's hear from you!!!!


I'm interested in 4 switches. 

​


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## foxtrot824 (Jul 19, 2012)

I'm interested, do you have any images or renderings?


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## nfetterly (Jul 19, 2012)

I'm interested in at least two.


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## smarkum (Jul 20, 2012)

Here is a pic of buttons Mohan made for switches. He is the button man. . . Mohan will be making the button is any style the owner wishes. 












These are actually switches for the Sunwaymay v10r light series. This interest thread at this point is on for E series switches. . . but if there is enough interest, another sunwayman series can be run too .. . . but the priority is on E series. Please DO NOT post interest for the Sunwayman swithces here. . . this is for E series only . . . and we need a lot more interset so pass the word!!!


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## dbleznak (Jul 20, 2012)

I'm interested in 2 max trit switches


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## jcalvert (Jul 20, 2012)

I would definitely be interested! :thumbsup:


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## samuraishot (Jul 20, 2012)

Count me in!


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## Morelite (Jul 20, 2012)

I would like three with two side by side trit slots.


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## bobjane (Jul 21, 2012)

Will they fit McGizmo clicky paks? If so I'd like to see what it looks like installed.

Also, will it be compatible with Don's drivers or will there be issues with mode switching?


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## mohanjude (Jul 21, 2012)

bobjane said:


> Will they fit McGizmo clicky paks? If so I'd like to see what it looks like installed.
> 
> Also, will it be compatible with Don's drivers or will there be issues with mode switching?



Yes they fit the mcgizmo clicky packs - the picture above shows it on a Haiku on the far right (trit dots on the button)

There will be issues with don's driver when trying to switch modes. The switch has a delay between pressing and activation which is not fast enough to change the mode. I get around the problem by loosening the battery pack and changing modes by making momentary contact having switched the switch on first. I don't change modes often so for me it is not a issue.

Mohan


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## gunga (Jul 21, 2012)

I may have interest in 1.


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## gripnSUREFIRE (Jul 21, 2012)

I am definitely interested in 1, with 3 trit slots in green.

EDIT: I dont know much about an electronic switch, but im curious; Can this somehow make my light into a 2 stage lo-hi? 
IE:I have an Icarus Triple XPG E2E, that is catered to a MCE2S (but they are impossible to find) I LOVE the mod, just wish I could have a LOW mode too!!

Thanks!


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## bobjane (Jul 22, 2012)

Can we get a normal lighting shot of the switch on a McClicky Pak? Can't really see what it looks like in the trit shots.


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## mohanjude (Jul 22, 2012)

Will do.. Pic coming up


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## Silgt (Jul 22, 2012)

Kudos to Shelby & Mohan for organizing this...I'll be needing several e-Series switches and SWM V-series switches as well. Let's make this happen :goodjob:


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## mohanjude (Jul 22, 2012)

Here is a daylight photo of the e switch on a haiku


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## gripnSUREFIRE (Jul 22, 2012)

That looks great!!!

I dont think there is a shortage of E-Heads around here!


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## dcaprilia (Jul 22, 2012)

I'm in for 2 depending on price. Thanks


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## bobjane (Jul 23, 2012)

Thanks for the pic, please put me down for one.


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## easilyled (Jul 23, 2012)

How would you install in E-switch in a Haiku body Mohanjude?

Normally the Veleno E-switches screw into E-series tailcaps from the end near the body, but with the McClicky packs the McClickies screw in from the tail-end by gripping the McClicky switches via the 2 dimples. As far as I'm aware the Veleno E-switches do not have the dimples to grip on.


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## smarkum (Jul 23, 2012)

Looks like were are ONLY about 1/4 of the way there . . . Please register your interest . . . and then go tell you friends... come all, we CAN do this!!!!!


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## mohanjude (Jul 23, 2012)

Yes you are right. No dimples. I used a pair pliers on the 'cone' are of the switch and screwed it in. I expected to be scratched but looking at the switch there was no marks. I guess titanium is really quite hard and will not be easily marked by using a jewellers or small long lose pliers. It fits in without a problem as there are no o rings along the body to grip and cause resitance. The o ring is dropped in the bottom of the switch similar to a mclicky



easilyled said:


> How would you install in E-switch in a Haiku body Mohanjude?
> 
> Normally the Veleno E-switches screw into E-series tailcaps from the end near the body, but with the McClicky packs the McClickies screw in from the tail-end by gripping the McClicky switches via the 2 dimples. As far as I'm aware the Veleno E-switches do not have the dimples to grip on.


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## easilyled (Jul 23, 2012)

mohanjude said:


> Yes you are right. No dimples. I used a pair pliers on the 'cone' are of the switch and screwed it in. I expected to be scratched but looking at the switch there was no marks. I guess titanium is really quite hard and will not be easily marked by using a jewellers or small long lose pliers. It fits in without a problem as there are no o rings along the body to grip and cause resitance. The o ring is dropped in the bottom of the switch similar to a mclicky



Wow! I'm impressed that no scratches were caused during that procedure.

All the same, I think it would be easier if there were a couple of neat dimples on the flat area of the switch on either side of the "cone" for the purpose of gripping with needle-nose or circlip pliers when the E-series trit-switch is specifically intended for replacing a McClicky switch in an integral one-piece body with inbuilt tail-switch (like the McGizmo clicky packs or maybe also for Mac's lights).

Would it be possible to provide this? If so, I would be interested in one or two.


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## mohanjude (Jul 23, 2012)

easilyled said:


> Wow! I'm impressed that no scratches were caused during that procedure.
> 
> All the same, I think it would be easier if there were a couple of neat dimples on the flat area of the switch on either side of the "cone" for the purpose of gripping with needle-nose or circlip pliers when the E-series trit-switch is specifically intended for replacing a McClicky switch in an integral one-piece body with inbuilt tail-switch (like the McGizmo clicky packs or maybe also for Mac's lights).
> 
> Would it be possible to provide this? If so, I would be interested in one or two.



Yep no scratches.. 

I could machine or mill 2 slots on the cone. It is a very steep angle. I will look into and perhaps post a mod and a picture. I could mill 2 dimples on the flat but it is fairly deep it will be difficult to locate

The switch is a one piece unit that uses a brass spacer on some lights when it is screwed into the tail cap from the inside on lights with removable tail caps. There is 2 notches for this purpose when screwed in from inside the tail cap. When used on dons or mac's lights it is screwed in as one piece from the outside and I agree with you that a dimple or some way of anchoring a pliers would be helpful.


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## gunga (Jul 26, 2012)

I'm still unsure how you change modes since the switch is electronic and not physical in nature.


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## easilyled (Jul 26, 2012)

gunga said:


> I'm still unsure how you change modes since the switch is electronic and not physical in nature.



press to switch on and press to switch off quickly. 
Then the next press to switch on goes to the next level. To keep it there, don't press to switch off for a few seconds. Otherwise, repeat the previous sequence.


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## gunga (Jul 26, 2012)

Sorry, to be more clear. I understand the modes with the standard clicky. I meant with the Trit switch.


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## easilyled (Jul 26, 2012)

gunga said:


> Sorry, to be more clear. I understand the modes with the standard clicky. I meant with the Trit switch.



The instructions I've given _are_ for the trit-switch.
With the clicky you can use a momentary push to go to the next level instead of switching it physically on and then off.
With the trit-switch you have to press on, then press off as there is no momentary facility. 
That is the difference between the two.

The lack of the momentary facility for the trit-switch means that its slower to change levels and for a very fast interface like a McGizmo UI where the levels have to be changed very quickly, this may not be feasible.


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## mohanjude (Jul 26, 2012)

Dan - well explained.

Most of the lights the mode is changed by clicking momentarily on the switch (Mclicky or similar) to switch brightness. Most drivers are 'intellegient' ie repeated switching on and off will put them into mode change mode even if it is not done quickly (0.5sec gap or mroe) . Sometimes this can be frustrating if you accidentally turn the torch on and off quickly repeatedly as it changes modes 'accidentally'. 

On the Mcgizmo you literally have to press the button momemtarily very quickly in sequence to get it to mode change. This is difficult on the e switch as it has a inherant delay between turning on and off following a press of the button. It latches on and off and has no momentary action. Repeated pressing of the button quickly does not turn the e-switch on and off any quickly which means no mode change on the mcgizmo.




easilyled said:


> The instructions I've given _are_ for the trit-switch.
> With the clicky you can use a momentary push to go to the next level instead of switching it physically on and then off.
> With the trit-switch you have to press on, then press off as there is no momentary facility.
> That is the difference between the two.
> ...


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## smarkum (Jul 26, 2012)

And the Electronic switch makes NO noise . . . A BONUS in some situations! And, with the raised button, it is easier to "click" than a standard clicky -- at least for my arthritic thumbs. 

Let me see . . . Looks like we are still only about a quarter of the way there . . . .Please put the word out there if you know folks who might be interested! 

On a side note . . . this is GREAT news that these switches will fit in a McGizmo. . . I didn't even know that. I will add another 3 to my order . . .


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## euroken (Jul 26, 2012)

The electronic switches are also shorter than mcclickies so this should also include the spacer for the battery just as Steve Ku has done in his run of e-series switches. 

I'd be interested in couple pending cost and that above issues are sorted out, e.g. Spacer, holes/notches for plier installation, etc.


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## jcalvert (Jul 29, 2012)




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## mohanjude (Jul 29, 2012)

euroken said:


> The electronic switches are also shorter than mcclickies so this should also include the spacer for the battery just as Steve Ku has done in his run of e-series switches.
> 
> I'd be interested in couple pending cost and that above issues are sorted out, e.g. Spacer, holes/notches for plier installation, etc.



The switches are exactly as per Steve ku and will include the spacer, o ring and silicon seal.


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## jcalvert (Jul 31, 2012)

:bump:


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## euroken (Jul 31, 2012)

mohanjude said:


> The switches are exactly as per Steve ku and will include the spacer, o ring and silicon seal.



Then I'm interested for two please!


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## gunga (Jul 31, 2012)

Okay. Have a haiku now, so interested. I understand the ui, but does it work properly with the slower e switch?


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## smarkum (Aug 1, 2012)

:santa: Just a reminder to folks, if you're interested in E series switch . . . please tell you friends, pimp out this thread or whatever is needed. . . we need a lot more folks interested in these switches. . . and please guesstimate how many you would like . . . that will help in deciding when there is enough interest. Let's get er done!


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## toby_pra (Aug 1, 2012)

Would be interested in 2 of them if these also fit McGizmo switches, what i expect, right?


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## euroken (Aug 1, 2012)

gunga said:


> Okay. Have a haiku now, so interested. I understand the ui, but does it work properly with the slower e switch?





toby_pra said:


> Would be interested in 2 of them if these also fit McGizmo switches, what i expect, right?



From what I've been reading, these fit Don's lights such as the Haiku but the nature of the electronic switch and Haiku's driver won't allow proper mode switching. Some members have stated that the mode switching is done by pressing the switch four times rapidly. Hope this helps.


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## toby_pra (Aug 1, 2012)

I am still interested...many thanks for the Info


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## smarkum (Aug 2, 2012)

My understanding , and Mohan can correct me if I'm wrong , is that yes, it will work in place of a mcgizmo. You must quickly push the button on and off again to cycle through to the brightness level you desire. . . OK by me as I don't use much but low and med anyway!


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## centauri (Aug 3, 2012)

I will take 2 switches, maybe 3, with electronic.


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## tobrien (Aug 4, 2012)

S are these not gonna fit SUREFIRE e series lights?


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## wyldthng (Aug 18, 2012)

Put me down for 2! I have a couple of Steve Ku lights that need additions!


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## De-Lux (Aug 18, 2012)

Count me in for at least 1.


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## walterr839 (Aug 19, 2012)

I'ld be in for one for the SWM V10R if you make that run again


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## mohanjude (Aug 19, 2012)

walterr839 said:


> I'ld be in for one for the SWM V10R if you make that run again



Actually this is for the E series switch... Hopefully that may happen again in the future sometime.


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## gunga (Aug 19, 2012)

Any word on this e series run? Need one for my haiku.


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## mohanjude (Aug 19, 2012)

gunga said:


> Any word on this e series run? Need one for my haiku.



Need at least 50 interests before run can materialise.


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## mohanjude (Aug 19, 2012)

tobrien said:


> S are these not gonna fit SUREFIRE e series lights?



Should work in the E series


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## wyldthng (Aug 19, 2012)

Add one more for me - looking at the pics, I can't make up my mind on configuration!!


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## wyldthng (Aug 27, 2012)

Anyone else interested?


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## De-Lux (Sep 2, 2012)

I will take 3.

Sent from my YP-G70 using Tapatalk 2


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## mikesantor (Sep 2, 2012)

Can not believe It took this long for me to see this. I'm interested in 2-3 for sure. Possibly as many as 6 pending price.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2


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## ffemt6263 (Sep 2, 2012)

Anyone know if the mode switching will work properly on a tri edc? I might be in for 2. Would also like a general idea on cost.


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## mohanjude (Sep 2, 2012)

I have got it to work on a Tri EDC. However I found that high setting sometimes refused to engage. At first I thought it might be the switch..but realised it works on the Thud. So not sure why it is temperamental.


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## gunga (Sep 2, 2012)

Are we close to the required 50 yet?


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## badtziscool (Sep 3, 2012)

mohanjude said:


> I have got it to work on a Tri EDC. However I found that high setting sometimes refused to engage. At first I thought it might be the switch..but realised it works on the Thud. So not sure why it is temperamental.



Did you test the switch on the tri-edc that has the lux-rc module or one that has the more traditional 3up mcpcb/7135 driver?


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## luxlunatic (Sep 3, 2012)

I'm good for one maybe two pending on price.


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## smarkum (Sep 4, 2012)

Looks like to me we are at about 38 switches. We need at least 50 to do a run . . . 
So all interested please get the word out. Tell all of your friends who have E series lights. These switches are going to ROCK! And, don't forget to puchase an extra or two for those lights we all have on our "wish" list. . . just sayin! 

So round up a little more interest and we'll be ready to fly! 
WE CAN DO THIS!


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## wyldthng (Sep 4, 2012)

Sigh! Just bought another light that needs one.... Add 2 to my commitment for a grand total of 5.


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## smarkum (Sep 5, 2012)

I'm sighing right with you wyldthng . . . 
GREAT JOB !!!!
So now were 2 buttons closer. 
WooHOO!!! now.......go tell all of your friends.


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## Ualnosaj (Sep 5, 2012)

Hmm ok I'm in. Let me count...

1x Haiku 6V
1x Mule
1x Sundrop

Maybe one more for a Mule coming... but 3 for certain then.


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## KuanR (Sep 25, 2012)

I'm in for one but I'm not sure if this works in a TNC P60 host, if it does, I'm in!


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## mohanjude (Sep 25, 2012)

KuanR

it works perfectly with TNC lights. Got them installed on my 18350 and 18650 Ti lights


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## KuanR (Sep 25, 2012)

Thanks for the clarification. I'm DEFINITELY in for at least 1 now. 

How many do we need to get a run going?


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## mohanjude (Sep 25, 2012)

KuanR said:


> Thanks for the clarification. I'm DEFINITELY in for at least 1 now.
> 
> How many do we need to get a run going?



Need at least 50+ to ensure that it is financially feasible. Have been advised that MOQ is 100 units. Like any run it is important that the numbers are accurate otherwise you end up with a lot of stock after laying out the financial outlay.


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## Xmldriver (Sep 26, 2012)

Count me in for one


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## SuPpAvIlLiN (Sep 26, 2012)

Im in for 1.


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## gunga (Sep 26, 2012)

I think we are at around 46 now. Come on people, just a few more!


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## KuanR (Sep 26, 2012)

Only half way to MOQ...it would help if some of the custom light builders add these as an option to their current offerings


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## samuraishot (Oct 3, 2012)

I'm still down for one of these


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## Edwood (Oct 4, 2012)

I'd be interested in 2 or 3 depending on the final cost.

And would like that triangle pattern with 3 trits. Very clean and attention grabbing.

Also, how exactly does this "electronic" switch work / look like? It's not a McClicky, right? it's an actual electronic switch? Is it for LED or Incan only use?


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## Bullzeyebill (Oct 4, 2012)

How much current can the electronic switch handle?

Bill


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## mohanjude (Oct 4, 2012)

Bullzeyebill said:


> How much current can the electronic switch handle?
> 
> Bill



Approx 9 amps. Certainly should be able to handle most applications.


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## badtziscool (Oct 5, 2012)

I didn't mention my interest in the previous post. Please put me down for 1.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Oct 5, 2012)

Def in for one, maybe 2 switches.


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## F250XLT (Oct 5, 2012)

Considering how long this thread is dragging on, how many of the final 50 do you think will actually get paid for?


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## mohanjude (Oct 5, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Considering how long this thread is dragging on, how many of the final 50 do you think will actually get paid for?



Thats a very good question... I think it is time to start making some calculations.


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## KuanR (Oct 5, 2012)

Maybe do a prepay system for people truly interested?


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## gunga (Oct 5, 2012)

I've had PayPal ready for a couple months!


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## nfetterly (Oct 5, 2012)

Posting #3 I said I would take two. I'll bump that up to 5.


Preference for....

1 Tall buttontriangle w/dot
​ 4 regular button2 x triangle w/dot
1 x triangle
1 x 6 (if these are being made - otherwise triangle)​


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## wyldthng (Oct 5, 2012)

I'm still down for 5!


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## mohanjude (Oct 6, 2012)

General questions to everyone who is interested.

1. Standard button or longer button?
2. Do you want a standard trit slots on the button or do you want custom trit slot arrangement?
3. Does anybody want no trit slots (blank button)

I need to work out whether to have the trit slots machined by Cnc at time of manufacture or to custom mill the slots. Milling 50 to 60 buttons on a custom basis will need some organising. 

I will soon open up a sales thread and transfer everybodys name who has shown a interest and contact you to confirm ongoing interest. With a minimum order quantity of a 100 switches I want to make sure that this is feasible. Pricing of the switches is going to be as low as possible hoping for around $65 for the basic switch plus cost of trits.

Mohan


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## gunga (Oct 6, 2012)

Woah, nice. Longer button for me, 3 Trit slots (triangle)


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## shao.fu.tzer (Oct 6, 2012)

Count me in for at least one for sure - not sure of what trit configuration I'd like though... Probably something minimal... I don't want it to look like I'm hiding a Lite-Brite down my pants at night.


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## badtziscool (Oct 6, 2012)

This is my official commitment for 1. 

I would like the longer button but I hope it won't protrude any further than the standard mcclicky.
I LOVE the triangle arrangement with center dot, so that's most likely what I would get.

On a side note, are the button on this switch the same dimensions as the one for the SWM? I'm not talking about the actual switch and threaded housing, but JUST the button. I would like to get a replacement button for my SWM or even have just a couple of extras with different arrangements for customization. 




mohanjude said:


> General questions to everyone who is interested.
> 
> 1. Standard button or longer button?
> 2. Do you want a standard trit slots on the button or do you want custom trit slot arrangement?
> ...


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## Xmldriver (Oct 6, 2012)

I'm in for one, +1 for the triangle and dot config.


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## mohanjude (Oct 6, 2012)

Yes the button is the same (or should be the same)

If you want a custom button shoot me a pm - I have the regular and the longer button with me. I can mill the slots you require. I don't charge for milling - only a nominal cost for the button.

Mohan



badtziscool said:


> This is my official commitment for 1.
> 
> I would like the longer button but I hope it won't protrude any further than the standard mcclicky.
> I LOVE the triangle arrangement with center dot, so that's most likely what I would get.
> ...


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## samuraishot (Oct 6, 2012)

Are there any photo comparisons between the regular and long switch? 

As for me, I'd like the trit slots in any configuration since they all look great. But my top choice would be the triangle either with or without the center dot. My second would be the 3 slots in a row. And my third choice the square.


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## KuanR (Oct 6, 2012)

I'll bump up from 1 to 3 if these can fit Mac lights. I would like the longer buttons if tail stand is not affected on Mac(if they fit), TNC, and McGizmo lights

I also want 3 to 6 trits installed like Steve's switches


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## gunga (Oct 6, 2012)

Oh yeah. Longer is only if it tail stands. I have 2 buttons with triangle trits and dot in the middle. I'm fine with that if that is the prefered choice by everyone.


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## smarkum (Oct 6, 2012)

Here is a couple of quick photos of the difference in the regular button and the tall button . . . 












And a 6 trit switch, a 3 trit switch and a couple of 4 trit . . . see the little dot in the middle?!


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## samuraishot (Oct 6, 2012)

Thanks smarkum!


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## smarkum (Oct 6, 2012)

samuraishot said:


> Thanks smarkum!



:thumbsup:


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## wyldthng (Oct 6, 2012)

Hmmm.... 3 of the 6 trit and 2 of the 4 trit, all of them short for me....


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## gunga (Oct 6, 2012)

Smarkum, does the haiku still tailstand with a long button. Do you like the feel of tall vs short etc?


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## maxspeeds (Oct 7, 2012)

Can we learn more about this electronic switch? It's specs? How waterproof is this replacement switch?

Is there any way a McClicky switch can be used instead of the e-switch?


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## mohanjude (Oct 7, 2012)

gunga said:


> Smarkum, does the haiku still tailstand with a long button. Do you like the feel of tall vs short etc?



The haiku will tail stand.


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## mohanjude (Oct 7, 2012)

maxspeeds said:


> Can we learn more about this electronic switch? It's specs? How waterproof is this replacement switch?
> 
> Is there any way a McClicky switch can be used instead of the e-switch?


The 
switch has o rings and a silicon diaphragm that makes it reasonably watertight. IMHO all the Ti lights that are sold are not guaranteed to be waterproof but are generally water resistant.

There is no further spec other than what is known - the e switch is powered by a tiny watch battery which lasts years. It is rated upto 8 amps but I am unable to give you detailed analysis of its performance as most switches struggle past 5 amps.


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## gunga (Oct 7, 2012)

If it can be reconfirmed to work on a Mac tri Edc, I would want a 2nd switch. That is if I get the Mac!


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## smarkum (Oct 8, 2012)

gunga said:


> Smarkum, does the haiku still tailstand with a long button. Do you like the feel of tall vs short etc?



Yes, as Mohan said, The Haiku will tailstand. I believe they all will. I love the tall vs short because for my arthritic thumbs, it makes it easier to operate...
I really like the tall buttons. 
:twothumbs


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## easilyled (Oct 8, 2012)

I would commit to 2-3 of them if you machined some grooves/dimples on them for gripping with a needlednose pliers for integrated body & tail units such as Mac's.

EDIT: Please refer to post #23/#24 where I touched on this in more detail and you (Mohanjude) agreed that this would be something worth trying.


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## mohanjude (Oct 8, 2012)

easilyled said:


> I would commit to 2-3 of them if you machined some grooves/dimples on them for gripping with a needlednose pliers for integrated body & tail units such as Mac's.
> 
> EDIT: Please refer to post #23/#24 where I touched on this in more detail and you (Mohanjude) agreed that this would be something worth trying.




That can be milled the way you would like it.

I want to make it clear to everybody on the thread that I haven't actually done ordering the switches and there is someway to go before Incan confirm that a run can take place. I know that there is sufficient interest but still haven't finalised anything yet. Once I know more info I will post on this thread and start a sales thread.

Mohan


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## samuraishot (Oct 8, 2012)

mohanjude said:


> That can be milled the way you would like it.
> 
> I want to make it clear to everybody on the thread that I haven't actually done ordering the switches and there is someway to go before Incan confirm that a run can take place. I know that there is sufficient interest but still haven't finalised anything yet. Once I know more info I will post on this thread and start a sales thread.
> 
> Mohan



No worries, Mohan  I'm just glad that it may happen, but of course, here's hoping that it will!


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## easilyled (Oct 8, 2012)

mohanjude said:


> That can be milled the way you would like it.
> 
> I want to make it clear to everybody on the thread that I haven't actually done ordering the switches and there is someway to go before Incan confirm that a run can take place. I know that there is sufficient interest but still haven't finalised anything yet. Once I know more info I will post on this thread and start a sales thread.
> 
> Mohan



Thanks for your agreement to this in principle.
You set a very fine example with your willingness to accommodate everyone's wishes. 
I fully understand that nothing has been finalised yet. :thumbsup:


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## smarkum (Oct 9, 2012)

Here is an older pic that I found which shows a different aspect of the shorter button and the taller button. 
This pic shows just the button parts outside of the switch.


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## samuraishot (Nov 10, 2012)

If this helps, I'm now in for 2 switches


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## tattoosteve99 (Nov 13, 2012)

Any updates on this project? I'd be down for at least one with triangle trits no dot, all green.


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## H-nu (Nov 13, 2012)

Are these available? If there's still room on the list I will take3 to 6 depending on unit rate.

cheers
chris


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## KuanR (Nov 13, 2012)

These are "available"in a sense we need MORE people to step out so a run of these can happen. I'm still in for 3 to 5 of these, hope a run will come to fruition


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## mohanjude (Nov 13, 2012)

H-nu said:


> Are these available? If there's still room on the list I will take3 to 6 depending on unit rate.
> 
> cheers
> chris




At the moment this project is on hold as Steve Ku has stopped dealing with the manufacturer of the switches. I am stumped at the moment as I dont want to tread on anybody's toes. I am Disappointed but at present all I can do is to apologise to everybody concerned. If the situation changes I will update the thread.

Mohan

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## samuraishot (Nov 13, 2012)

No problem, Mohan, thanks for the update


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## KuanR (Nov 13, 2012)

It's ok, Mohan, we all know you tried and wanted this to work out more than anyone else


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## tattoosteve99 (Nov 13, 2012)

that's too bad.


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## wyldthng (Nov 30, 2012)

Thanks for trying Mohan!


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## gunga (Nov 30, 2012)

Yes, thanks for trying!


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## tattoosteve99 (Feb 6, 2013)

Any news or updates to these? I tried pming the op with no response


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## mohanjude (Feb 7, 2013)

As it stands I haven't really pushed this project because it has come to an halt at a very sensitive place. I would love to take it forward but don't want to tread on anybody's toes.

If I can clear this hurdle I can proceed. I have put this on the back burner as the passing of time can sometimes help or seal the fate if interest completely wanes

Mohan


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## KuanR (Feb 7, 2013)

I'm glad to see you haven't given up completely yet, Mohan.


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## gunga (Feb 7, 2013)

Me too! I would still take 2 or 3.


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## wyldthng (Feb 10, 2013)

I'm still interested Mohan


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## Silgt (Feb 10, 2013)

Any updates with these? Would need at least 3 of these 

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## Megatrowned (Feb 10, 2013)

I actually just found this thread. Reading through it, these switches look quite impressive. It's too bad this has been put on hold, however I do understand that 'things' happen. 

If this does go forward, I might be talked into one :thumbsup:


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## mohanjude (Feb 11, 2013)

Silgt said:


> Any updates with these? Would need at least 3 of these
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2



Shyan - there is a bit of update a couple of posts before / have a read as you might have missed it.


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## stewdogg (Mar 16, 2013)

If this ever comes to be I would like to get 1 or 2... got my fingers crossed!


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## samuraishot (Jul 9, 2013)

So I was able to source one of these, but the spring is too short. For those who have an electronic switch, is it okay to use a neodymium magnet or will it damage the switch? I saw a photo in this thread of what looks to be like the switches on top of magnets, but it doesn't say specifically. Can anyone in the know please tell me the size of those magnets? Thanks!

Edit: Answered via PM, thanks!


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## IsaacL (Jul 19, 2014)

Is this project dead? I'm interested in the possibility of installing an e-series electronic switch in a Tri-EDC.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Jul 19, 2014)

It is very likely that this project will not be revived. Mohan has not been online for quite some time. There were a few Ku e-series Ti e-switches made but they are few in number.

You should take a look at the project Mattaus is working on which will basically be an electronic switch for Z41 applications. Original discussion is that it would be a drop-in replacement for a McClickie switch. This would be a drop-in e-switch replacement for the light.

The other option you have, which I have had done on a few Tri-EDC lights, is to have the tailcap bored to accept a V10R Ti e-switch. The bore job is not cheap and would be on top of the price of the switch itself. For me it was worth the cost.

Sean


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## IsaacL (Jul 19, 2014)

Thanks for stepping in to answer Sean! I'll definitely look Mattaus up. However, if I were to find a Ku e-series switch, would it fit the Tri-EDC? I know there was some question as to the compatibility.


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## gunga (Jul 19, 2014)

It fits but is not the same as the sunwayman version. Very rare and costly. All in I paid $180!!

View attachment 142



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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Jul 19, 2014)

That is correct - it is not the same as the Sunwayman V10R version. 

I was very lucky to obtain the one e-series Ku one that I have. I am glad gunga was able to say if it fit or not because my Tri-EDC is already re-bored for a V10R switch. A McClicky will still screw in, but I don't think it would be an accurate test compared with a stock threaded Tri-EDC tailcap.

Also - one downside to the e-switches versus the McClickies as that there is no half-tap on an e-switch. It's either on or off so level switching involves well mastered double taps. With a McClicky you can half tap to your level and then lock it. Mattaus' e-switch version will mimick the half-tap and full-tap of a McClicky so it should be even better. I am greatly looking forward to testing it out.


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## gunga (Jul 19, 2014)

I'm sorry. I can't 100% confirm as my eswitch is in a McGizmo. I think Mohan did say his did fit though. 


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