# EagleTac T20C2 (Tactical RGB) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!



## selfbuilt (Aug 13, 2009)

_*Reviewer's Note: *The T20C2 was provided for review by EagleTac. Please see their website for more info._

_*UPDATE March 7, 2010:* This model has been replaced with a new upgraded version, the T20C2 Mark II. Please see my new review for details on the currently shipping Mark II version._

_*UPDATE JULY 27, 2010:* Eagletac has just released a new XR-E R2 drop-in for the T20C2 Mark II. Basically, you get the throw and output characteristics of the original T20C2 reviewed here - but with the build and UI improvements of the Mark II series._ 

*Warning: Even more pic heavy than usual! *

*Manufacturer's specifications, condensed from EagleTac's website:*

Cree XR-E R2 LED (WD tint, Cool White) or Q4 (5A tint, Neutral White)
Maximum 300 lumen / 60lumen / 5lumen, Runtime 1.5 hrs / 13hrs / 180+ hrs
Three levels output, activate by twisting bezel
Tactical strobe mode, operated by pressing rear switch
Stainless steel bezel
Syntax ultra-clear glass lens w/ harden and AR coating
Type III finish / aerospace tough aluminum
Smooth aluminum reflector
Gold plates on all contacts
Superior tactical knurling and griping aerodynamic
Protruding tactical forward clicky tail-cap
Polycarbonate cigar grip ring
Heavy Duty Holster
Para-cord Lanyard
Glow-in-the-dark silicon tail boot
Spare o-rings and EagleTac silicon grease for self-service
Advanced RGB Filter System, including high output diffuser filter, Syntax coated red glass filter, and blue and green filters with mirror glass finish for minimized glare and true high output color. 
CR123A Battery Magazine for two CR123A Batteries
Stainless steel pocket clip in black color, for "head-down" placement of the light
Heavy duty nylon holster.
IPX-8 o-ring system
Self-service possibility allows maximum flexibility by allowing users to open the head (users can replace or upgrade the lens or reflector themselves)
Optional upgrade to orange peel reflector.
Optical tail-stand tail-cap 
Weapon mount support
Length 5.9 inches (14.9 cm), Head Diameter: 1.38" (3.5 cm), Body Diameter: 1.0" (2.5 cm), Body Weight 4.25 ounces (120 grams)
Supports two Lithium CR123A batteries (also compatible with one or two Li-ion rechargeables)
MSRP $80 ($90 with RGB filter kit)
The T20C2 is the official release of the "Tactical RGB" light that EagleTac has had in development. As you can see from the fairly extensive specs above, EagleTac has thrown a lot in to this particular package.







By default, the T20C2 comes with manual, warranty card, spare o-rings, o-ring lube, extra GITD tailcap boot cover, wrist lanyard, good quality belt pouch with closing flap and lens diffuser attachment. :sweat: Optional accessories are the RGB filter kit (shown above), OP reflector, and tailstanding tailcap (scroll down for pics). 

Note that the green and blue filters have a reflective finish, just like the Olight filters. If I had used the flash and aimed the camera head on, they would look green and blue. 














The first I thing I noticed about the light is the general similarity in external appearance to the Olight M20. oo:





(from left to right: AW protected 18650, EagleTac T100C2 MarkII, T20C2, Olight M20, JetBeam Jet-IIII M, Raptor RRT-2).

*T20C2*: Weight 123.3g, Length 147.8mm x Width 34.9mm (bezel max)
*Olight M20*: Weight 120.1g, Length 143.2mm x Width 35.7 (bezel max)

While these external similarities may raise a few eyebrows, a quick examination of the internal components reveals that these lights are actually quite different:






As you can see, they are far more divergent than their external appearance might have let you to believe. The T20C2's battery tube is longer and more bulky overall. The tailcap of the T20C2 is actually common with the T100C2. And most significantly, the head of the T20C2 separates into two pieces, with the reflector actually screwing into the top portion of the head. The contact surface in the base of the head is also pretty different looking, consistent with its rather unique interface and EagleTac heritage.

Simply put, I would say the internal construction of the T20C2 and Olight M20 are as different as any two 18650-class lights are ever likely to be. :tinfoil:










Fit and finish are excellent on my sample, no flaws in the black type-III hard anodizing (except for a few chips in the knurling, as is not uncommon on EagleTac lights). Consistent with other EagleTac lights, the knurling on the bezel and tailcap is quite aggressive. Identification labels are very sharp and clear, in bright white against the black background (perhaps unfortunately so, as there are a fair number of warnings on the bezel/head ).

Screw threads are anodized for head or tailcap lock-out. :thumbsup: Due to the standard protruding forward clicky, the light cannot tailstand in its default form – but you can buy a tailstanding tailcap accessory (scroll back up for a pic).

Note that the black stainless steel clip and polycarbonate grip-ring are removable (although you will need to remove the o-ring to get the grip ring off). Unlike the Olight M20, the grip ring does not cover the attachment point for the T20C2's clip, so be careful not to scratch the anodizing when removing/attaching the clip (I find a little teflon oil can help).










The light uses the standard Cree XR-E emitter, with a R2 output bin in this case (WD tint reported). Also available from EagleTac is the relatively warm "neutral" 5A tint with a Q4 output bin. For those of you not familiar with tint bins, please see my Colour tint comparison and the summary LED tint charts found here. 

One of the more interesting features of this light is how you can remove the bezel retaining ring and screw on the included diffuser (or optional RGB filter kit).






That's a fairly smart way to attach a filter/diffuser.:thumbsup: The quality of the included filters and diffuser seem very good – on par with the Olight filter/diffuser material available for a number of their lines. 

Here's how the business end of the light looks with the standard smooth reflector, optional OP reflector, and diffuser cover:














And now for the requisite white wall wanting hunting  … all lights are on Max on an AW protected 18650, about 0.5 meters from a white wall. 

First with default smooth reflector


















And with medium OP reflector:


















As you can see, there is not a huge difference in terms of the beam profile. I personally prefer the OP reflector, as it helps smooth some of the rings without affecting throw very much (reminds me of the early JetBeam Jet-II/III reflectors - some smoothing, with little loss of throw).

To help you compare the effects of the diffuser and RGB filters, here are some individual shots taken with the smooth reflector (~1m from the wall, 1/25sec exposure, f3.2)

Smooth reflector:





With diffuser:





With RGB kit:













Not surprisingly, the red filter seems to allow the least amount of light through (white LEDs are well known to be somewhat deficient in the red wavelengths).

Here's a few more shots, taken up close on a white cardboard box:


















As with the Olight filters, you can see how the mirror-finish of the green and blue filters produces a bit of bounce-back color distortion up-close at the opening.

_*UPDATE*: Some additional long-distance beamshots, to show you how the light compares to others in its class. 

Please see my recent 100-yard Outdoor Beamshot review for more details (and additional lights)._











*User Interface*

The T20C2 has a fairly unique interface. Tighten the bezel for Turbo, loosen for General mode. So far, so good – just like a classic Fenix or EagleTac 2-stage interface.

Where it gets interesting are with the "hidden" modes. There is a low output mode that can be accessed by rapidly switching to or from Turbo/General within a sec or so (i.e. a rapid Turbo-General-Turbo, or General-Turbo-General switch). The low setting is not retained if you turn the light off – it will come back on in Turbo or General mode, depending on how you left the head. Interestingly, the light doesn't just jump from one output mode to another – when going down in output, it rapidly ramps down instead.

The other (unfortunately not-so hidden) mode is strobe. This can accessed by doing a rapid twist from General mode to off and back to General mode again. Unfortunately, it can also be accessed by simply clicking off-on within 3 secs. :sigh: 

This removes the ability to rapidly signal in momentary mode, and means you will always strobe yourself if you turn the light back on within 3 seconds of it turning off. I would have preferred if strobe had been confined solely to a head switch instead of a simple off-on tail click.

Strobe frequency was measured at 8Hz, similar to the EagleTac M2-series lights.

*No PWM (Pulse-Width-Modulation)*

Consistent with other EagleTac lights, I was unable to detect any signs of PWM.  As the runtimes clearly indicate, lower output levels appear to be current-controlled.

*Testing Method:* All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for the extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

Throw values are the square-root of lux measurements taken at 1 meter from the lens, using a light meter.

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*














As you can see, there is relatively little difference in throw between the smooth and OP reflectors. Max output of the T20C2 is a little higher on 2xRCR/CR123A compared to 1x18650 – and it currently the brightest 2xRCR/CR123A light in my collection. oo: 

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*
























As previously noted, the T20C2 is brighter on Max on 2xRCR or 2xCR123A than any similarly equipped light in my collection.  Regulation and runtime performance is very good, consistent with a current-controlled circuit

Performance on 18650 is as expected for a multi-power, current-controlled R2-equipped light. By that I mean that an 18650 on Max is direct-drive, with a slow decay over time (as opposed to full regulation). You will see from above that this pattern is common on maximally-driven, multi-power lights.

Please keep the above in mind when comparing lights – invariably, these sort of results trigger hand-wringing from those who want perfectly flat regulation on 18650. If you really want that, you will generally need to go with an 18650-only light, or a multi-power light that isn't driven as hard on 18650. :shrug: 

And while on this topic, please remember that all current-controlled, multi-power lights tend to have similar runtime performance for a given output and emitter. I am sure the Fenix TK11/12 lights would look similar if I had them to test. In my experience, EagleTac, Olight, and Fenix circuits tend to have relatively equivalent (and excellent) runtime performance. 

*Potential Issues*

Strobe mode is easily (and potentially inadvertently) accessed by clicking off and back on within 3 seconds. This prevents momentary signaling.

Like all maximally-driven, multi-power lights, the T20C2 is direct-drive on Max on 18650.

The light features physical reverse polarity protection in the head, requiring the use of button-top 18650 cells. Some of the newer high capacity flat-top 18650s (i.e. protected 2600mAh) may not work in this light without modification.

*General Observations*

EagleTac has done a very good job on the T20C2 – this light plays quite comfortably in the same multi-power 2xCR123A sand box as the "big boys" (i.e. the Fenix TK11/12, Olight M20, and JetBeam Jet-III family). 

Runtime performance is as good as the other current-controlled lights (e.g. Fenix, Olight), and Max output on 2xCR123A/RCR appears to be highest in my collection at the moment. Well done. :thumbsup:

User interface is somewhat different, with the "hidden" Lo mode (and not-so-hidden strobe mode ). I found the regular output modes fairly intuitive and easy to use – but I dearly wish they would change it so that the strobe doesn't get activated by a simple off-on click as it currently does. This defeats the whole purpose of momentary signaling with a forward clicky. :candle:

Build-wise, the T20C2 is a solid feeling light. While it shares the same tailcap as the base-model T100C2, it has a more sophisticated UI feature set and body design (particularly in regards to the head design). Fans of aggressive knurling will be happy to see EagleTac has kept that feature unchanged, while adding extra elements like the removable clip and crenelated stainless bezel ring.

Also upgraded from the basic T/P100 series EagleTac lights are the extra goodies that come standard with this light (e.g. o-ring lube is a nice touch). Everything included appears to be of high quality, and I particularly like the bundled diffuser. This really is a very useful tool - I wish more manufacturers would make one available for their models. :thumbsup:

When you consider all the available optional accessories (e.g. RGB kit, tailstanding tailcap, OP reflector, etc), the flexibility and versatility of this light is impressive. Not to mention the price is right – I don't usually comment on this aspect of lights, but it seems to me that it would be hard to top the value you get for your money with the T20C2, among this class of lights.

At the end of the day, I'm impressed with this foray by EagleTac into the premium level of lights. I don't know if overall build quality is quite as high as the Olight M20 or Jet-III M (two of my favorites in this class) – but it is certainly close. With a little tweaking of the interface (i.e. strobe!), I think this light would be a real top contender in this class.

_*UPDATE Oct 24, 2009:* FYI, EagleTac has come out with a newer offering with the same interface as the T20C2, but is much smaller in build - the P20C2. You might want to check out my P20C2 review if you are in the market for this class of light._

_*UPDATE JULY 27, 2010:* Eagletac has just released a new XR-E R2 drop-in for the T20C2 Mark II. Basically, you get the throw and output characteristics of the original T20C2 reviewed here - but with the build and UI improvements of the Mark II series._


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## berry580 (Aug 13, 2009)

Thank you Self built for the great reviews!

Looks like JB RRT-2's output/runtime efficiency isn't really that great for being what it is.
That just makes the T20C2 look even more attractive! =D


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## richardcpf (Aug 13, 2009)

Great review, thanks! I'm probably buying this one.

Few questions: How is the low mode, does it really do 180 hours?


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## vitekboi (Aug 13, 2009)

Nice review. The t100c2 has good regulation and runtimes.


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## 276 (Aug 14, 2009)

Great review as always, ihad just ordered one yesterday from pts-flashlights I am looking forward to it.


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## Henk_Lu (Aug 14, 2009)

Thanks very much for all your detailed reviews, this is one more in a long row which must have been a terrible work and are so terribly usefull for us flashaholics!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

I was to get one of these babies for a VERY good price from my favorite dealer, but unfortunately, EagleTac didn't send the neutral white. Darn, the cool white doesn't interest me, too many similar lights...


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## Flashlight_Bug (Aug 14, 2009)

Quote from https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/231734&page=3
"



*Re: New Eagletc Model - Codename: Tactical RGB* 
Hi all

Learning from our experience, we’ve conducted a total of two (paid) beta testing groups to test the T20C2 prior to production. The T20C2 is *perfect in every aspect* and requires *no further modifications*.

Nicole :thumbsup:"

One click and we have to wait for more than 3 seconds (I counted four for mine) before we can click again, otherwise it goes into strobe. That doesn't seem *perfect in every aspect and requires no further modifications*. Who were those paid beta testers? 

The anodizing still sucks. Yes, out of the box, you get a solid looking light with uniform anodizing. But after a short period of use, even without dropping it, the anodizing has started to chip and you get ugly shiny spots all over the black body. 

Hopefully, when they release the T20C2 Mark 2, they won't just release them in black.


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## brett174 (Aug 14, 2009)

How does one go about getting the OP reflector? I haven't seen a single dealer that offers it.


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## AbnInfantry (Aug 14, 2009)

Thanks for your excellent, detailed review. :goodjob:


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## Vesper (Aug 14, 2009)

Yea, I like this light. Glad I bought it but the strobe placement is dumb. I seem to use lights more in momentary mode and 50% of the time I'm strobing when I don't want to be. :shakehead


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## DM51 (Aug 14, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> When you consider all the available optional accessories (e.g. RGB kit, tailstanding tailcap, OP reflector, etc), the flexibility and versatility of this light is impressive. Not to mention the price is right – I don't usually comment on this aspect of lights, but it seems to me that it would be hard to top the value you get for your money with the T20C2, among this class of lights.
> 
> At the end of the day, I'm impressed with this foray by EagleTac into the premium level of lights. I don't know if overall build quality is quite as high as the Olight M20 or Jet-III M (two of my favorites in this class) – but it is certainly close. With a little tweaking of the interface (i.e. strobe!), I think this light would be a real top contender in this class.


Persuasive comment in an excellent review. This does look a very good light and very competitive indeed in its class. 

Moving this to the Reviews section...


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## euroken (Aug 14, 2009)

If it wasn't for the 'not so hidden' strobe access, I'd snatch it up immediately!

Thanks again for an excellant review, Selfbuilt! I've come to wait for your review before purchasing any lights these days! :twothumbs


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## selfbuilt (Aug 14, 2009)

berry580 said:


> TLooks like JB RRT-2's output/runtime efficiency isn't really that great for being what it is.


The RRT-2 performs very well on Max on all sources. It just can't compete in terms of runtime at the lower modes compare to true current-controlled circuits like these (especially on Lo, which isn't shown above). But runtime isn't everything, and the UI and build of the RRT-2 may be better suited for some.



richardcpf said:


> Few questions: How is the low mode, does it really do 180 hours?


The Lo mode registers at 6.8-7.3 on my relative output scale (see the comparison chart in the review). That's not quite as low as the Olight M20's lowest mode, but it is close. It is certainly more than 5 lumens - I would estimate it is actually in the 10-15 lumen range (and closer to 15). Haven't tried a runtime yet, but I would expect several days at least at this level.



Flashlight_Bug said:


> The anodizing still sucks. Yes, out of the box, you get a solid looking light with uniform anodizing. But after a short period of use, even without dropping it, the anodizing has started to chip and you get ugly shiny spots all over the black body.


Hmmm, no marks on the smooth finish of mine yet after a week of testing. But there were some chips in the anodizing on the knurling upon arrival - I've added that point to the review. It is sometimes hard to tell, since the aggressive knurling picks up dust and pieces of material it comes in contact with. But I believe knurling nicks are not uncommon on all EagleTac lights. :shrug:



brett174 said:


> How does one go about getting the OP reflector? I haven't seen a single dealer that offers it.


Try checking directly with EagleTac (i.e. Nicole).



Vesper said:


> Yea, I like this light. Glad I bought it but the strobe placement is dumb. I seem to use lights more in momentary mode and 50% of the time I'm strobing when I don't want to be. :shakehead





euroken said:


> If it wasn't for the 'not so hidden' strobe access, I'd snatch it up immediately!


I hear ya ... I'm the same way. I find I use momentary mode a lot of on my lights, and don't like having to remember to wait at least 3 secs each time.


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## frosty (Aug 14, 2009)

Nice review as always. Is there a separate review for the EagleTac T100C2 MarkII?


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## selfbuilt (Aug 14, 2009)

frosty said:


> Nice review as always. Is there a separate review for the EagleTac T100C2 MarkII?


It's coming  ... may have it up tonight, or sometime this weekend.


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## frosty (Aug 14, 2009)

Great. It looks like a really nice light.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 14, 2009)

frosty said:


> Great. It looks like a really nice light.


Review of that model is now up:

EagleTac T100C2 (XR-E Q5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

:wave:


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## litetube (Aug 14, 2009)

So, when you mention AW RCR123 Protected you mean 3.7V yes? I want to try them out but havnt seen anywhere that states it is safe to do so. I dont want to blow thelight up and figure out the hard way that you meant 3.0volts AW or something.


I thought I was the only one who found the strobe annoying at times? I am a hopeless flasher with my lights . No I dont use flashlights naked, I tend to use lights in short flashes and/or bursts and find the strobe a bit annoying also. I guess if you use strobe alot then this setup would/could be useful 

I think with aggressive knurling, just like on lights like the Ra lights you can get some "points" or sides of the points where the annodizing has come off or not adhered? I know HA likes flat surfaces best . Some lights if you turn them about the little spots of shinyness come and go depending on the angle. As the maker of the Ra lights has said, this doesnt affect the functionality of the coating.


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## mfranke (Aug 14, 2009)

I have mine, and for about a week now, have been blinding my co-workers, not to mention throwing them into epileptic fits with the strobe.

I think the only thing I can say I'm not loving is the ease of which the strobe is inadvertantly activated. I would have liked for something that required more concerted effort to engage.

Other than that, a fine light for the money. 

I can't find a noticeable difference using either the Li-Ion or the CR123's, but I'll burn the CR123's and never look back. There's no internal sleeve or shim, and I hates me some loose, rattling batteries.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 15, 2009)

litetube said:


> So, when you mention AW RCR123 Protected you mean 3.7V yes? I want to try them out but havnt seen anywhere that states it is safe to do so. I dont want to blow thelight up and figure out the hard way that you meant 3.0volts AW or something.


Yes, I used AW protected 3.7V RCR (~4.2V fully charged), without a problem. Although the EagleTac literature makes no mention of these, I (and others) have tested them without incident so far.



mfranke said:


> I can't find a noticeable difference using either the Li-Ion or the CR123's, but I'll burn the CR123's and never look back. There's no internal sleeve or shim, and I hates me some loose, rattling batteries.


Because of the wider bore to accommodate protected 18650, you will get battery rattle with CR123A/RCR. You can buy a CR123A/RCR battery holder for all the EagleTac lights. For some odd reason, one came included with my T100C2 but not my T20C2 :thinking:.


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## Lightcrazycanuck (Aug 15, 2009)

Great review as always.Keep up the good work.:twothumbs


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## jirik_cz (Aug 17, 2009)

So the strobe is activated by double clicking the switch... What do you think is going to happen when you fire a weapon with mounted T20C2?


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## maxilux (Aug 17, 2009)

jirik_cz said:


> So the strobe is activated by double clicking the switch... What do you think is going to happen when you fire a weapon with mounted T20C2?



Yes for Weapon mount it is unusable.
Better take an T100C2 MK II, thats great for this application.


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## CGD08 (Aug 17, 2009)

Great review man!
I hope my reviews will be anything close haha :laughing: 


I've had my T20C2 for 6 days and counting. A great light. A small light with an amazing throw! A+


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## Mjolnir (Aug 17, 2009)

I think that they should have left out the strobe, or at least made it much harder to activate unintentionally. In my opinion, having a strobe mode that prevents momentary signaling completely misses the point of having a forward clicky. They might as well have put a reverse clicky and made had the modes changed from the switch, since there is no momentary on at all. At the lleast they should have made the interval MUCH shorter. If the light had to be switched on and off within about 1/4 of a second, then it would make more sense, since the only reason that someone would be turning the light off and on this quickly would be for a _strobe_. 3 seconds is WAY too long. 
The filters and diffuser seem very nice, but to me the strobe seems very crippling for a "tactical" light, and makes it more of an EDC type light.


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## JKL (Aug 17, 2009)

Great review as always,
an excellent confirmation of my personal opinion on this flashlight.


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## jirik_cz (Aug 17, 2009)

maxilux said:


> Yes for Weapon mount it is unusable.



Why do they offer weapon RGB kit then? Did they ever tested this light with a weapon?


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## litetube (Aug 17, 2009)

Yep , as I mentioned in another thread, I think you would have a problem with recoil and using this light. Mine switches to strobe with the lightest of taps on the tail. I would think shotgunrecoil would produce the same problem. 

I like this light alot but wouldnt mount it on a rifle or shotgun. Another one of those "make it and call it tactical but dont really test it in realworld scenarios first"


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## selfbuilt (Aug 28, 2009)

UPDATE:

The question of using the new higher capacity flat-top 18650s (i.e. protected 2600mAh) has been surfacing a lot lately. 

Like a number of recently released 18650-class lights, the T20C2 features physical reverse polarity protection in the head (i.e. requires the use of button-top cells). As such, some of the newer flat-top 18650s may not work in this light without modification.

I have added this point to the Potential Issues section of all my recent reviews (where applicable), and will be commenting on it all future reviews of this class of light.


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## crazigee (Sep 2, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> Like all maximally-driven, multi-power lights, the T20C2 is direct-drive on Max on 18650.


 
What does "direct drive on Max on 18650" mean exactly?

What rechargeable would you recommend for this light?

Thanks,
CG


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## selfbuilt (Sep 2, 2009)

crazigee said:


> What does "direct drive on Max on 18650" mean exactly?
> What rechargeable would you recommend for this light?


It means there is no circuit regulation on 18650 batteries on the highest setting. Instead, the light relies on the internal resistance of the battery to limit the decay in light output (i.e. slow drop-off over time). This is known as "direct-drive", since the battery is directly running the LED (i.e. as if there was no circuit in the way).

If you look at the graphs, you will see what I mean - compare the 18650 Max run to the max runs on other batteries. The other batteries are flat light output (i.e. circuit regulated) until nearly exhausted. The 18650 slowly decays until it eventually "falls off the ski slope" and rapidly depletes.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with this pattern - it is in fact more efficient to simply rely on the internal resistance of the 18650. But many users like the idea of constant light output provided by circuity. The problem is that for various electrical reasons, it is very difficult to design a circuit that can be fully regulated at max output across the voltages ranges of all battery types. The lights that typically manage this feat do so by reducing max output on 1x18650.

Personally, I consider this pattern to be a more than acceptable trade-off. As for batteries. I typically recommend single-sources whenever possible, such as 1x18650 (i.e. removes the risk of potentially mismatched dual-cells). It also has the greatest overall storage capacity this way. AW protected batteries are by far the most popular here, and what I use.


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## crazigee (Sep 2, 2009)

So would I be better off going with a rechargeable RCR123 than with and 18650?

Eagletec make an 18650, whichI assume would be compatable...

I will be using this light a lot when on night patrole. It could get pretty expensive if I go with single use CR123 Lithiums.

Thanks,
CG


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## selfbuilt (Sep 2, 2009)

crazigee said:


> So would I be better off going with a rechargeable RCR123 than with and 18650?
> 
> Eagletec make an 18650, whichI assume would be compatable...


As for RCR - well, only if you want a quarter the runtime for a frankly neglible increase in output. It's a much better idea all around to stick with 1x18650. 

The Eagletac batteries will work fine, and have slightly higher capacity than the older generation AW 18650 shown here (i.e. will have a slightly longer runtime).


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## palomino77 (Sep 11, 2009)

Thanks for the great review. 

What about the throw and brightness compared to the M20.

:thanks:


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## selfbuilt (Sep 11, 2009)

palomino77 said:


> Thanks for the great review.
> 
> What about the throw and brightness compared to the M20.


The table in the review has detailed throw and overall output values (measured by a lightbox and ceiling bounce) for both lights, on all battery types.

Simply put, there is not a big difference between the two lights on 18650 (each with the same type of reflector). On 2xCR123A/RCR, throw and output are slightly higher on the T20C2, but not enough to be significant in actual use.


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## Doctor (Sep 13, 2009)

Nice review! :wave:

But I have still a question: How scratch resistant is the body?

Regards,
Doctor
http://dict.leo.org/ende?lp=ende&p=thMx..&search=scratch-resistant


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## csshih (Sep 13, 2009)

the body itself seems rather scratch resistant, but the knurling seems to go flakey as selfbuilt noted.

nice review!


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## selfbuilt (Sep 14, 2009)

csshih said:


> the body itself seems rather scratch resistant, but the knurling seems to go flakey as selfbuilt noted.


I think Craig summed that up well. It is not uncommon to find the occasional chip on the agressive knurling of EagleTac lights (not to mention little bits of the plastic packaging ). But I haven't seen any signs of damage to the anodizing during routine testing and handling so far.


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## MichaelRose (Sep 18, 2009)

I will own this flashlight one day


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## Rod911 (Oct 9, 2009)

I've had this light for about a week and during that time, played around with its UI.

I found that the strobe doesn't trip if you were to quickly turn it off and then turn it back on if the previous on position was set at "low". For example, if the light is currently set to low and you quickly turn it off and back on again, it will not strobe.


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## pobox1475 (Nov 1, 2009)

Just ran across this one on their site. After reading review the strobe killed it for m:shakeheade .


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## selfbuilt (Nov 1, 2009)

Rod911 said:


> I found that the strobe doesn't trip if you were to quickly turn it off and then turn it back on if the previous on position was set at "low". For example, if the light is currently set to low and you quickly turn it off and back on again, it will not strobe.


You are right - good catch. I have just confirmed this on mine as well. Of course, if you do this off-on flash from Lo, you will wind up back in Turbo or General (i.e. wherever the head is located)

Note that this applies only to Lo - i.e. you need to do the rapid head switch first to get from Turbo or General to Lo. If you flash off-on in Turbo or General, you get strobed.


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## 7k7k99 (Nov 7, 2009)

for some reason, my T20C2 Neutral white does not seem as bright as my Surefire 6P with a Malkoff drop in

But I do like the RGB kit and the white diffuser. It was a ***** changing out the reflector, the factory installed one was super tight.


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## Andyy (Dec 3, 2009)

The coating on the cigar grip is falling off, and I haven't even starting using it.
And the strobe is very annoying, but it is a pretty good light


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## ZRXBILL (Dec 4, 2009)

Can the T20C2 use flat top 18650 batteries?


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## Andyy (Dec 4, 2009)

No they can't, reverse polarity protection


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## Tayous1 (Dec 17, 2009)

I just talked to someone at illuminationGear. I was asking about a pouch that could fit on a duty belt when they said that!They might be getting new T20C2 with a new strobe on it I guess everyone saying they did not like the strobe on it Eagle Tac fixed it.


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## Arnulf (Dec 17, 2009)

Great review....awesome flashlight. :thumbsup:


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## Andyy (Dec 20, 2009)

Well, mine is broken I think.
Whenever I turn off the light at "normal" mode it starts with strobe, no matter how long between it


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## Rod911 (Dec 21, 2009)

Andyy said:


> Well, mine is broken I think.
> Whenever I turn off the light at "normal" mode it starts with strobe, no matter how long between it


Have you tried checking the charge on your battery? Mine did this as well when the voltage was running low. Either on tight or loose modes, it would randomly start strobing. After changing the battery with a fresh one, it was back to normal again.


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## Vesper (Dec 21, 2009)

Andyy said:


> Well, mine is broken I think.
> Whenever I turn off the light at "normal" mode it starts with strobe, no matter how long between it



I had some funky strobe behaviors with mine. I figured out it was I had over-lubed the bezel threads and the excess grease was interfering with the current or something. When I cleaned it up inside and out it was fine again.

I care least about my T20C2 (the crazy strobe gets to me - should only come on when in max mode IMO), but this light ends up getting used the most. Go figure :thinking:. It's the one I leave near the kitchen and gets taken to the mailbox etc (I don't care if it gets dropped).


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## Andyy (Dec 21, 2009)

Rod911 said:


> Have you tried checking the charge on your battery? Mine did this as well when the voltage was running low. Either on tight or loose modes, it would randomly start strobing. After changing the battery with a fresh one, it was back to normal again.


Tried it with 2x cr123 and with fresh charged (Eagletac)18650s, so that can't be the problem


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## gopurple (Dec 23, 2009)

Selfbuilt, thanks for the review. You save me some money on this one, I was going to buy it, but based on the strobe problem, I'll pass on this. 

I don't know why EagleTac would wanted to produce a "random on strobe mode" in their light, wish I know who they paid to test their light, maybe that's the problem, they got a bunch of "yes man", did they test the strobe mode? They should save their money and just give some samples to some LEOs and have them field test it.

Great review as always.


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## Andyy (Dec 25, 2009)

Well, I just got a mail reply from Eagletac, hope they going to solve it.


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## adamtoms (Jan 31, 2010)

hi, ive just ordered this light. This is the proper light i have had so i really dont no that much about anything! Ive looked nearly everywhere on CPF and cant find what batteries it adcepts. I want to buy some 18650's but there is something called protected, which i think is where there is a nib on the end of the batteries to stop the light shortcircuting or something. what i need to no is can i just buy any 18650 batteries for this light, (there are some on ebay) called "4 x RECHARGEABLE 3.7 V 18650 2800mAh li-ion Battery GTL" and will these fit and work in this light
Sorry if this question has been answered anywhere else
Thanks,
Adam


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## adamtoms (Jan 31, 2010)

hi will these batteries work in the egal tac t20c2 
*UltraFire 18650 3.7V 3000mAh Lithium Batteries (2-Pack)*

http://www.bestofferbuy.com/UltraFi...ource=gbase&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=gbase

Thanks Adam


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## selfbuilt (Feb 1, 2010)

adamtoms said:


> hi, ive just ordered this light. This is the proper light i have had so i really dont no that much about anything!


You should check out the battery forum here ("Flashlight Electronics - Batteries Included") for more info on batteries. It is a complicated subject, and you will want to be well versed before you buy anything. Also, check out the Welcome Mat for CPF.

To get you started, protected batteries refer to ones with a built-in cut-off circuit to prevent against over-discharging. Over-discharging is very bad for Li-ion, as it permanently damages the cell and increases the risk of catastrophic failure upon an attempted recharge. Like most here, I recommend only protected batteries for use in LED flashlights. The members on the battery forum can help you out with more info.


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## adamtoms (Feb 6, 2010)

selfbuilt said:


> You should check out the battery forum here ("Flashlight Electronics - Batteries Included") for more info on batteries. It is a complicated subject, and you will want to be well versed before you buy anything. Also, check out the Welcome Mat for CPF.
> 
> To get you started, protected batteries refer to ones with a built-in cut-off circuit to prevent against over-discharging. Over-discharging is very bad for Li-ion, as it permanently damages the cell and increases the risk of catastrophic failure upon an attempted recharge. Like most here, I recommend only protected batteries for use in LED flashlights. The members on the battery forum can help you out with more info.


thanks your the advice selfbuilt, ive brought a pair of 3000mah protected batteries!


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## MBentz (Mar 8, 2014)

Sorry for bumping this old dinosaur of light. I still have my T20C2 as it approaches five years old, and it still works perfectly. It has been relegated to being the backup light stored in the glovebox of my car. I was fiddling with it today and decided I would reread this review, and noticed something odd. Did Eagletac actually serialized these old flashlights, or did they pick ET693 for all them? I'm wondering because the light selfbuilt has pictured is number ET693 and so is mine.

Again, apologies for bumping this relic.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 8, 2014)

MBentz said:


> Did Eagletac actually serialized these old flashlights, or did they pick ET693 for all them? I'm wondering because the light selfbuilt has pictured is number ET693 and so is mine.


No, I believe that was a driver model number. Eagletac used to print that sometimes on their early lights (but no longer does).


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