# ex10/d10 slotted piston, trit vial thread



## ClarkWGrizwald (Sep 1, 2008)

this is my attempt to start a thread on this subject for those of us planning on doing a DIY with the trits and pistons for our PDs. i have never done anything like this and would like to ask a few questions about installing the trits. how hard is this to do? is it recommended that i get someone to do this for me? i would imagine that once the acrylic is dried its a done deal. i would hate to screw it up only to find that the pistons and/or trits are no longer available. i enjoy the occasional DIY but dont want to risk a fail. also there is the question of what product to use to seal the trit into the piston.


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## Hondo_Lane (Sep 1, 2008)

Great thread.
Where do you get the trit vials from? Or where can you get super lume powder?


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## ClarkWGrizwald (Sep 1, 2008)

/\ the cpf member [email protected] is supplying the trits exclusivly from what i understand for the pistons. to reserve the trits you give [email protected] your order number from the piston order. there is a thread in the dealers corner. i actually created this thread because i cant post in the dealers corner. im assuming its because im new here. so i figured others cant as well. also i didnt want to cloud up that thread with DIY questions.


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## 1dash1 (Sep 1, 2008)

Clark:

Have you registered at the CPFM forum?

The two forums, CPF and CPFM, are two different forums. You need to register in each separate forum in order to participate in them.

_It may seem to be cumbersome to be split in two, but there are advantages. For example, when one site is down for maintenance, the other site is still up. For another, when one site is operating like molasses, the other one is often running smoothly._

P.S. This thread would be more appropriately titled, "EX10 Slotted Piston, Trit Vial Thread". The slotted piston is not an option for the D10 at the present time. [EDIT: My bad. The trit thread linked to the EX10 product page. I didn't see that the D10 slotted piston is available on another web page.]


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## Nitroz (Sep 1, 2008)

Hondo_Lane said:


> Great thread.
> Where do you get the trit vials from? Or where can you get super lume powder?



The best place to get the glow powder or paint, is GlowInc.com. The user here on CPF is Slylighter. I am sure that most here on CPF will agree that this is the best stuff available, especially the green.


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## darkzero (Sep 2, 2008)

Nitroz said:


> The best place to get the glow powder or paint, is GlowInc.com. The user here on CPF is Slylighter. I am sure that most here on CPF will agree that this is the best stuff available, especially the green.


 
Their V10 green is the brightest I've used but I was not happy with the particle size at all. Anyone who has used it will know what I'm talking about. The grains are so large they are very noticeable when mixed in epoxy. I guess it doesn't bother some cause I've seen a few mods with it but it really bothers me. Their blue is not so bad.

I like the powders from www.readysetglo.com


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## d1dd1 (Sep 2, 2008)

Thanks for the link darkzero.

Are their powders or paints much dimmer compared to glowinc stuff ?


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## ClarkWGrizwald (Sep 3, 2008)

so what is the best epoxy to use to install tritium vials?


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## Stillphoto (Sep 3, 2008)

ClarkWGrizwald said:


> so what is the best epoxy to use to install tritium vials?


 
You'll probably get many responses of Norland 61 since that's what Don (McGizmo) uses, but to be honest I've had perfect, professional results with the Devcon stuff. Just make sure you get the slower curing one that dries clear. Works like a charm, and is self leveling as it dries, so it sort of smoothes itself out.

Oh and the Devcon is available at places like MalWart for a few bucks.


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## Cuso (Sep 4, 2008)

Stillphoto said:


> You'll probably get many responses of Norland 61 since that's what Don (McGizmo) uses, but to be honest I've had perfect, professional results with the Devcon stuff. Just make sure you get the slower curing one that dries clear. Works like a charm, and is self leveling as it dries, so it sort of smoothes itself out.
> 
> Oh and the Devcon is available at places like MalWart for a few bucks.


+1 for the Devcon stuff, don't bang your head too much about it, grab some and try it for yourself... I use it all the time, and it cures nicely. Just mix it slowly to avoid bubbles and use a small pointy object to apply. If you screw up, boil and repeat.


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## ClarkWGrizwald (Sep 4, 2008)

so no problems with boiling a tritum vial? concievably if i screw up ill be having to boil the tritium vial as well.


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## tino_ale (Sep 4, 2008)

Cuso said:


> +1 for the Devcon stuff, don't bang your head too much about it, grab some and try it for yourself... I use it all the time, and it cures nicely. Just mix it slowly to avoid bubbles and use a small pointy object to apply. If you screw up, boil and repeat.


Are you suggesting you can easily remove the Devcon epoxy if you mess up with the work? Interresting if you can confirm that. If so I need to get some of this stuff


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## ClarkWGrizwald (Sep 4, 2008)

/\ agreed. can you only boil that stuff and not the more expensive kind?


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## Cuso (Sep 4, 2008)

Yes you can, it will turn the epoxy into a gummy stuff you can remove. The vial is made of glass, no problem either.. Its not an easy task though, you will have to be patient on the removal , so you don't damage the vial in the process... But in general, yes it can be done. Norland can be boiled too, same results.


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## jag-engr (Sep 4, 2008)

How well does the Devcon sand if I get the top of the epoxy sticking up over the top of the piston?

I'm thinking this may be a good solution, as I already have some at home.

Also, I'm thinking about applying some glow powder as a temporary filler until I get the tritium vial — I understand that it could be as long as *two months*!


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## RocketTomato (Sep 4, 2008)

I started a thread about a possible group buy for Norland 61 in the market place forum, in case anyone is interested.

Which devcon epoxy have people used? The 5 minute version?

Does anyone know if the Norland 61 also self-levels?


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## Stillphoto (Sep 4, 2008)

Nah the 5 minute version is very little time to get it going correctly. It would be the 30 minute version...Devcon 2 ton clear weld epoxy. I picked some up last night for under $2. Certainly outperforms other epoxy I've bought for 5 or 6 bucks.

I would imagine the Norland stuff self levels. If you've seen any of McGizmo's vial installations, you know what I mean. Pretty much always ultra clean and smooth.


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## rocled (Sep 4, 2008)

Has anyone every used the V-10 powder with epoxy? Does it glow for a long time? I have 3 pistons and I wanted one with GITD Powder, but not sure which one to use. Right now I have a 1/2" GITD 0-ring around the piston area from lighthound.


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## darkzero (Sep 4, 2008)

Stillphoto said:


> I would imagine the Norland stuff self levels. If you've seen any of McGizmo's vial installations, you know what I mean. Pretty much always ultra clean and smooth.


 
Actually not always. 

The Devcon 30 min epoxy self levels too. Most slow curing epoxies will.


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## geek4christ (Sep 5, 2008)

Guys, thanks for the information here. I was a bit nervous about this mod myself and now I feel assured that the DevCon will work and if I mess up I can start over.

:thanks:


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## Cuso (Sep 6, 2008)

This is Devcon 2 Ton...I used a syringe, but a pointy object like a pin shall do. I thought I was going to mess this one up , but it self leveled fine and looks good.


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## jag-engr (Sep 8, 2008)

Has anyone heard what kind of a time frame we're looking at on the tritium vials being available?


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## Stillphoto (Sep 8, 2008)

Bart has said a few times that it's mid to late September at this point.


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## jag-engr (Sep 9, 2008)

jag-engr said:


> Has anyone heard what kind of a time frame we're looking at on the tritium vials being available?


 
[email protected] is now accepting payments and expects to have the vials in-hand on Monday to begin shipping!

Oh, I do wish 4sevens would hurry up and get those clips — maybe that could make the wait a little easier...


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## ClarkWGrizwald (Sep 9, 2008)

ok people. vials are hitting the mail. time to stop dilly dallying and get this going! what do i need a syringe for? how would i use a pin instead? is the key to it not putting to much in the slot so it goes over the edge?? i need a tutorial!


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## HarryN (Sep 9, 2008)

Just practice on something less valuable - maybe use a toothpick instead of a vial, and epoxy it into a scratched piece of wood.


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## rocled (Sep 10, 2008)

I recently purchased some V10 powder and installed it in a D10 piston with some epoxy. This powder works great. I used blue painters tape to tape off the slot, then filled it with the epoxy/V10 mix using a toothpick. I used a flat piece of cardboard to scrape off the extra epoxy mix. When it looked level, I peeled the blue tape off so the epoxy wouldn't set and glue the tape. Very easy to do, just take your time. This option glows all night long, but is pretty dim. At first, it is very bright and glows very bright for about a half-hour with diminishing light. In the morning, I could still see it glowing from about 6 feet. Great alternative to a trit vial, even though I have some coming..:twothumbs


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## Thujone (Sep 11, 2008)

I got some of the devcon 30min weld clear epoxy. I tried a batch and after 18h it is still tacky to the touch. Does this stuff ever harden to where it isn't sticky? I am a bit disappointed.


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## Stillphoto (Sep 11, 2008)

Thujone...The only times I've had that happen, it was because I didn't mix the two parts of the epoxy well enough / or I messed up on squeezing it out and my epoxy : hardener ratio got screwed up.

I usually let it sit for a day afterwards anyways, but it should't be tacky after 18 hours.


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## Thujone (Sep 11, 2008)

Stillphoto said:


> Thujone...The only times I've had that happen, it was because I didn't mix the two parts of the epoxy well enough / or I messed up on squeezing it out and my epoxy : hardener ratio got screwed up.
> 
> I usually let it sit for a day afterwards anyways, but it should't be tacky after 18 hours.




Thanks stillphoto, this is what I was thinking also, I thought perhaps the first shot wasn't balanced and also I maybe didnt mix ,long enough. I mixed up some more and will check it tonight when i get home.


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## Thujone (Sep 11, 2008)

Well you were right, batch #2 was much much better. This stuff will work perfect and it was only $2. Thanks! And thanks to whomever suggested practicing first


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## jag-engr (Sep 12, 2008)

Stillphoto said:


> Thujone...The only times I've had that happen, it was because I didn't mix the two parts of the epoxy well enough / or I messed up on squeezing it out and my epoxy : hardener ratio got screwed up.
> 
> I usually let it sit for a day afterwards anyways, but it should't be tacky after 18 hours.


 
I used some for a household repair project, and I noticed the same thing. along part of the area where I had applied epoxy, but the whole area wasn't tacky.

It must need to be mixed very well, because I was very careful to get equal parts of hardener and epoxy.

Just for the record, which is the hardener and which is the epoxy? My guess would be that the yellowish stuff is the hardener.


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## Stillphoto (Sep 13, 2008)

I've never figured out which is which..I'm sure someone will chime in. One thing I do know, is that its fun trying to mix them together well without getting a ton of bubbles in it.

Now I'm just trying to get my piston evenly polished...when I got mine it had a rather "grainy" appearance, so I took the dremel and some polishing compound to it, now it needs to be evened out. I swear, its the little things...


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## darkzero (Sep 13, 2008)

I've used tons of Devcon epoxy over the years & it's pretty much the only epoxy I use. Even for emitters & potting boards expect I mix it with AO powder. I've never had a tacky mix with either the 5 Min or the 2 Ton. The key is to mix it thoroughly & not for just a few seconds. Using more hardner than resin won't make it cure any faster or stronger.

For the Devcon 2 Ton Clear the amber is the hardner & the clear is the resin. 

Don't tell anyone  but the trick to avoid air bubbles is to mix it slowly that way you don't get air bubbles to begin with.

You can polish the epoxy (of course after it is fully cured after 12 hours) but to get good results try not to get it too hot when polishing. That's what gets it grainy assuming you are using the proper polish & buffing wheel.


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## jag-engr (Sep 17, 2008)

Thujone said:


> I got some of the devcon 30min weld clear epoxy. I tried a batch and after 18h it is still tacky to the touch. Does this stuff ever harden to where it isn't sticky? I am a bit disappointed.


 


Stillphoto said:


> Thujone...The only times I've had that happen, it was because I didn't mix the two parts of the epoxy well enough / or I messed up on squeezing it out and my epoxy : hardener ratio got screwed up.
> 
> I usually let it sit for a day afterwards anyways, but it should't be tacky after 18 hours.


 
I've also found that it can get tacky if worked with after it start thickening. As long as it's tjhe consistency of, say, honey, it sets fine. If you continue to work with it when it starts globbing up thicker (more like cold molasses) it may have tacky spots when it sets.


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## jag-engr (Sep 17, 2008)

I epoxied in the tritium vial in the slotted piston for my EX10 last night.

I used the Devcon 2-ton clear epoxy. I was considering waiting for some Norland 61 from RocketTomato, but I already had the epoxy and I have used it for a couple other projects already, so I am familiar with it.

I was very careful to get the same amount of hardener and resin. I mixed them slowly using the provided "spatula" (more of a plastic scrap). I probably made about a tablespoon of epoxy, but I used the rest for another project. Where bubbles formed, I let them rise to the surface and sort of just pulled them off to the side.

From the middle of my epoxy glob, I removed a small amount and dabbed it into the slot. I stretched it out with the needle (_Do not even try this without a needle or straight pin handy!_) along the length of the slot. A bubble formed at one end and was very difficult to work out, but I did so with the needle. Then I dropped the vial in and positioned it with the needle. I then applied more epoxy to the top.

The most frustrating part was trying to get the epoxy level and even with the edges of the milled slot. A little alcohol on a paper towel was very helpful in this process.

I think the epoxy did shrink a slight amount. I messed with the epoxy until I had it level across the top of the slot, but, this morning, it had the slightest hint of a recessed surface. It feels flat to the touch, though, and I think the slight recession may actually protect the epoxy from scratching.


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## rocled (Sep 17, 2008)

I used devcon 2 ton as well on one of my pistons. I mixed it slowly too, and no bubbles formed. I used blue painters tape to tape off the slot so no epoxy would get on the piston. When it was dry, it was slightly above the rest of the piston so I used a buffing wheel to buff it, and it turned out great. Buffing it really made it shine, making it clearer on top.


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## ClarkWGrizwald (Sep 18, 2008)

come on, nobody is posting pics of thier finished PDs???


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## DaFABRICATA (Sep 18, 2008)

ClarkWGrizwald said:


> come on, nobody is posting pics of thier finished PDs???


 


+1


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## Coaster (Sep 18, 2008)

I just installed my trit last night and it needed to cure so I haven't had time yet to get the tube installed in my light. Hopefully I can do it this evening and get some pics up.

My install job isn't perfect but it's good enough for me. Looks bubble free but I went a bit light on the epoxy so it's got a little dip.


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## Stillphoto (Sep 18, 2008)

Got my vial today..woo hoo! I love this larger vial. Next comes the install.


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## Beamhead (Sep 18, 2008)




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## kaichu dento (Sep 18, 2008)

Unfortunately it's starting to look like I'm the one who has their vial disappear in shipping.

I hope we can order more soon so I can order another for the one I didn't get and also a couple more for the 2 more D10's I ordered with slotted pistons.


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## Tronic (Sep 18, 2008)

Here they are:


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## Coaster (Sep 18, 2008)

Here it is:


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## Paul6ppca (Sep 18, 2008)

Where are people getting Devcon 2 ton clear weld epoxy?
Ive been to walmart and home depot.


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## Coaster (Sep 18, 2008)

I bought mine at Wal-Mart in the adhesives section of the hardware area. I was shocked to find anything at all since they are doing a shelf reset or something and the store looked like Ike blew through it.


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## darkzero (Sep 18, 2008)

Wow, that's a big trit! Must be pretty bright!


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## 4sevens (Sep 18, 2008)

darkzero said:


> Wow, that's a big trit! Must be pretty bright!


It's intentional. It's the biggest that will fit on the piston


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## Paul6ppca (Sep 19, 2008)

Coaster said:


> I bought mine at Wal-Mart in the adhesives section of the hardware area. I was shocked to find anything at all since they are doing a shelf reset or something and the store looked like Ike blew through it.


 
Wanna ship me some?

Ill check another Walmat tonight.Found it at the 3rd walmart!


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## Thujone (Sep 19, 2008)

I saw the Devcon stuff at harbor freight also.


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## Paul6ppca (Sep 19, 2008)

Thujone said:


> I saw the Devcon stuff at harbor freight also.


 

Thanks,Ill check there!NOPE not here in RI,I called 3 walmarts,finally found 1!Now lets see if they really have it.


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## Paul6ppca (Sep 19, 2008)

I found it(epoxy) at the 3rd walmart store ,$1.98! So call around if your looking for it.
Now I just need my trit!

How long did it take for trits to reach the USA?

BTW Pics look great anyone else done theirs yet?Please more pics and your experience/tips are much appreciated.


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## Paul6ppca (Sep 20, 2008)

Anyone else got pics?


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## sclemin1 (Sep 21, 2008)

Just finished gluing using Norland 61 with an expiration date of 07/28/2007.
If memory serves correctly, the glue was slightly thinner when fresh.
It was still thin enough to self level good.
I used magnifying glasses and a wooden toothpick to put a little glue in the slot 1st.
Placed the trit, then used a steel shirt needle to add small drops to fill the slot.
A good magnifying glass and a comfortable workplace to aid in having steady hands is the trick. (Good lighting too).


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## geek4christ (Sep 21, 2008)

Paul6ppca said:


> Anyone else got pics?


...Nevermind, photobucket doesn't want to work for me.


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## Coaster (Sep 22, 2008)

Paul6ppca said:


> BTW Pics look great anyone else done theirs yet?Please more pics and your experience/tips are much appreciated.



First I used masking tape to keep any spillage from getting anywhere but in the slot. I also rigged up an old ink pen that was just the right size in a vise to slide into the piston so it was solid while I was working with it. Just to be clear I only clamped the pen, not the piston.

I mixed mine in a sandwich bag and just barely nicked the corner with a pair of scissors when it was mixed then used it like a pastry bag. I filled the slot about 1/2 full then set in the trit. I used a thumb tack to spread the epoxy around over the trit and to get out a small bubble that worked its way in and to center the trit. I then used a old credit card to level the top and then pulled off the masking tape.

You'll want someplace with good lighting and ventilation. Mixing the epoxy in the bag keeps the fumes down quite a bit though.

I also collected up a few things around the house that need some repairing and put the extra I mixed to work where I didn't need to worry about bubbles.


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## Thujone (Sep 22, 2008)

Brilliant tips Coaster. I will definitely take advantage of your ideas in the future.


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## bigfish5 (Sep 23, 2008)

well i'm johnny come lately on this one. I have my d10 slotted piston and blue trit on the way. I saw this stuff online and thought i would use it. 

http://superglue.supergluecorp.com/gr.html

 I now plan to go to walmart and get some of the devcon epoxy. I still think the superglue glass stuff might work ok. I know superglue is strong and they say it is clear, but i probably wont take a chance.


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## DaFABRICATA (Sep 23, 2008)

Heres mine.....I used 2 part epoxy for the tritium vial that I use for carbon fiber.


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## Stillphoto (Sep 24, 2008)

Well I done did it...I noticed some areas of the epoxy weren't exactly as clear as I'd like (just on the surface).

So I took the dremel and plastic polishing compound to it and burned up the epoxy even at low speeds...time to boil it out I guess!


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## Stillphoto (Sep 24, 2008)

:hairpull::sigh::hairpull:

I think that best describes my results. Anyone have another vial laying around?


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## TOTC (Sep 24, 2008)

Not nearly as nice as some of the other pictures, but I figured I'd share.

Exposure was a bit long in dim light, so the trit appears brighter in the shot than it usually does to the naked eye (unless your eyes are very dark adapted)

Anyway...





​


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## Cuso (Sep 24, 2008)

Stillphoto said:


> :hairpull::sigh::hairpull:
> 
> I think that best describes my results. Anyone have another vial laying around?


What happened??


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## Stillphoto (Sep 25, 2008)

Broke the trit vial during the removal process, and scratched the piston (though not in the beefy area of the "button", right on the thin little edge area. 

Basically I used microwaved water that was pretty much boiling. I thought all was well, as I removed all of the epoxy that was on top of the vial without much trouble. Had my water stayed hot enough, it would have continued to soften the epoxy (I basically let it heat up for a bit, took it out, and removed what I could, then back into the water). I was using a dentist's pick as my tool. All was well until it slipped on some hard epoxy and pierced the vial. I had to stifle a yell because people were sleeping, but needless to say i was miffed.

Today I properly boiled water and threw it in, and the epoxy and remaining glass came out pretty easily. 

Now I need to polish the end a bit to hopefully remove the scratches, and find another vial. I'm bummed because I just put in a large (for me) trit order with Bart, and had this happened beforehand, I could have tried to get another beefy trit for the piston. Also waiting to see if more norland epoxy is going to become available in the marketplace, the devcon was fine, its my fault I screwed it up, but I want to try this norland stuff out.


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## kaichu dento (Sep 25, 2008)

kaichu dento said:


> Unfortunately it's starting to look like I'm the one who has their vial disappear in shipping.
> 
> I hope we can order more soon so I can order another for the one I didn't get and also a couple more for the 2 more D10's I ordered with slotted pistons.


My trit showed up! :twothumbs

Now if I can get a couple more I'll send payment and my Fenix purchase number!


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## Paul6ppca (Sep 25, 2008)

I finished mine last nightIt came out great!I used the devcon 2 ton clear,it is very clear! I followed tips from this thread,taped the top of the piston,I mixed it slow and thouough,Almost no air bubbles in the mix,I pushed them aside and used a needle to place a thin layer on the bottom,placed the trit in ,then added till it was full,just slightly higher ,then used the needle to smooth it level, 3 times , each time I cleaned it with alchol wipe. Put it aside for 24 hours to cure and done.

It looks really cool.Also very useful,as I always know which end to press!
Ill try to post pics tonight.

Also thanks for the pic comparing the 2 trits,this one is huge!I can see my hand from its glow in the dark!

Dont be afriad to try it ,just go slow and take you time.If your really afraid Pm me and maybe we can work something out.No gaurente!


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## tx101 (Sep 25, 2008)

Stillphoto said:


> :hairpull::sigh::hairpull:
> 
> I think that best describes my results. Anyone have another vial laying around?



PM send


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## Paul6ppca (Sep 25, 2008)

Heres mine,man I need a good camera!


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## jag-engr (Sep 26, 2008)

Stillphoto said:


> Broke the trit vial during the removal process, and scratched the piston (though not in the beefy area of the "button", right on the thin little edge area.


 
I'm thinking about trying to remove the green vial from my EX10. I'm quite happy with how it's installed, but I am going to get a D10, only white vials are left, and I think that I may prefer to have the green vial in the D10. I gues I should wait and see if I even like the feel and operation fo the D10 before I try to remove the vial from my EX10.

*Does anyone have any success stories about removing a tritium vial, especially one set with Devcon 2-Ton Epoxy?*


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## Stillphoto (Sep 26, 2008)

Honestly Jag, if you get your water good and boiling, it should go much better than it did with me...I was impatient and it punished me for it.

Slow and steady wins the race.


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## rocled (Sep 26, 2008)

I would try soaking it in acetone. Acetone softens it right up. I tried this and it took a great amount of time, and using a tooth pick to pick it out, but I removed the yellow devcon and replace it with norland. I don't know if boiling is the trick, these vials are pressurized I too had one explode


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## Stillphoto (Sep 26, 2008)

I'll second the idea of using a toothpic. Much more forgiving. Plus yeah, if the epoxy is soft enough to remove with a toothpic you're good to go.


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## DaFABRICATA (Sep 29, 2008)

I'm happy with mine.
Such a nice and simple upgrade.


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## jag-engr (Sep 29, 2008)

rocled said:


> I would try soaking it in acetone. Acetone softens it right up. I tried this and it took a great amount of time, and using a tooth pick to pick it out, but I removed the yellow devcon and replace it with norland. I don't know if boiling is the trick, these vials are pressurized I too had one explode


I, too, have some reservations about boiling a pressurized glass vial. I think that I will try the acetone method. My only concern was that it might damage the finish of the piston, but that doesn't seem to have been a problem in your case.

Boiling would probably be faster, but acetone sounds more forgiving. :thinking:


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## Firas (Oct 14, 2008)

Sorry for the bad pics :nana:


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## DaFABRICATA (Oct 14, 2008)

Firas said:


> Sorry for the bad pics :nana:


 


Pic aren't bad , but the size is.

Max pic size is 800X600...please resize


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## Firas (Oct 14, 2008)

DaFABRICATA said:


> Pic aren't bad , but the size is.
> 
> Max pic size is 800X600...please resize


Done


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## ryball (Aug 25, 2009)

Didn't see it in this thread...

trit's are 2x8 size from this thread - http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=194646


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## toughCookie (Mar 30, 2010)

:bow:I'm new to this tritium stuff but it looks soooo cool.... I want one in my future flash light:twothumbs. Question is;

How long does the Tritium last for?
What are the sizes needed for a NiteCore D10? Is it 2mm by 8mm?
Can I get them to ship to the UK without any problems?

Cheers,
toughCookie
lovecpf


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## joepa150 (Apr 19, 2010)

I just installed a trit vial into the piston on my Nitecore D10 using Norland 61. I put a few drops in the slot, evened out with a needle, dropped the vial in, and added a few more drops to cover. The pollen is SO bad where I live that everything has a yellowish green dusting on it. I didn't want that to get stuck on the norland 61 so I put the piston outside and covered it with a glass for about 30 minutes. I just went out back to take off the glass and to leave it uncovered for a bit more thinking that the Norland 61 is precured and the pollen won't stick to it now. 


When I examined it it has about 6 specks that look like airbubbles!!!! 

Is this normal and will it go away once it is fully cured?

How did the airbubbles magically appear?


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