# My TurnPro 13x40 Lathe



## Pidg (Jan 10, 2010)

I've been lurking here for a couple of months and thought I should contribute. Since this is my first lathe, I don't have the knowledge that most of you have. I really appreciate all the info and photos that have been posted, and hope I can also contribute. 

I took a Machining Metal course (only 2 credit hours) over 30 years ago. I also worked as mechanic in a Brake & Front End shop where I turned brake drums and rotors on a specialized brake drum lathe and a separate rotor lathe, while I was in college. 

In the past few years, I have also used the engine lathes at work for simple projects. But the machinists always set up the tooling, so I have a lot to learn. 

I won  the TurnPro in a GoDove auction, which was pretty exciting after two years of looking. It was in a Visteon factory in Springfield OH. Sadly, Visteon was shutting down the factory and auctioning the contents. 

Although the model numbers are different, the lathe looks just like this one:

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=954166&PMAKA=111-3115

And here are some photos that include the "lathe-lift" I made for moving it, which made this 1900 lb beast relatively easy to move:





























Bill Pidgeon


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## gadget_lover (Jan 10, 2010)

Wow! That's a sweet looking lathe. Congrats and welcome to the group.

Was that tow truck loading or unloading? 


Daniel


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## sortafast (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice. You should be able to do some real damage with that thing. Time to start spending some $$$$ on some sweet tools.


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## precisionworks (Jan 10, 2010)

:welcome:

That is a VERY nice machine ... 21" swing in the gap, 1.562" headstock bore, 3hp 3ph motor, Meehanite castings, etc. You'll be pleased :thumbsup:

Do you already have a rotary converter to provide 3ph, or will you use a VFD. Either one can work well for your lathe.

Neat lifting point that you made.


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## precisionworks (Jan 10, 2010)

That machine looks almost new. The fact that it does not have a quick change tool post indicates that it probably never has made a lot of chips


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## Pidg (Jan 10, 2010)

gadget_lover said:


> Wow! That's a sweet looking lathe. Congrats and welcome to the group.
> 
> Was that tow truck loading or unloading?
> 
> ...



Thanks Daniel - yea, pretty exciting. The first lathe I bid on in November 2007 was a 10" Logan. 

Unloading, and he backed it up my driveway and into my garage. Visteon used a fork lift to put the lathe in the truck.

Bill Pidgeon


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## Pidg (Jan 10, 2010)

precisionworks said:


> That machine looks almost new. The fact that it does not have a quick change tool post indicates that it probably never has made a lot of chips



Barry, you are a good detective. The Visteon guys told me that tooling was never supplied. The electrician used it to de-burr conduit. When I went down there to inspect it before the auction, I wanted to see the cross slide move and they started to show me how the manual feed works. It became evident that they didn't know it had a powered cross feed. They warned me over the phone, when I was setting up an appointment for the inspection that they didn't have a machinist there and the people there only used it occassionally, so they couldn't do a decent demonstration. The mfr date on the lathe is 2005.

So, you are correct. From what they told me, the only chips were conduit burrs.

Also, no I don't have VFD, but I've been reading your posts both here and at Practical Machinist. It's too cold in my garage (Michigan) to use it, so I'm not in a big hurry. But if I find a good deal, I'll pounce. 

I ordered a Square D VFD for a 30 hp motor at work about a year after working with an automationdirect.com GS1 or GS2, I forget which. The Square D software was a real puzzle compared to the automationdirect VFD. But I haven't used a VFD in two or three years, and I never had much knowledge - I had to read the manuals.

Also, I need tooling. Too many choices on the inserts -whew. I've been consuming the posts on inserts. 

Thanks for all the info you've posted - it's incredibly helpful!

Bill Pidgeon


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## wquiles (Jan 11, 2010)

Awesome, a great machine with very little use


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## sortafast (Jan 11, 2010)

Pidg said:


> Also, no I don't have VFD, but I've been reading your posts both here and at Practical Machinist. It's too cold in my garage (Michigan) to use it, so I'm not in a big hurry.



I know I only live in OR, but I got one of these used from a friend and it was the best money I have ever spent on a "tool" for the garage. Takes about 5min to take the edge off, and 15min to make it very very pleasant. Plus if the power goes out I can still heat the house (or a couple rooms at least). Just gotta find Kerosene on the cheap.


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## wquiles (Jan 11, 2010)

sortafast said:


> I know I only live in OR, but I got one of these used from a friend and it was the best money I have ever spent on a "tool" for the garage. Takes about 5min to take the edge off, and 15min to make it very very pleasant. Plus if the power goes out I can still heat the house (or a couple rooms at least). Just gotta find Kerosene on the cheap.



Wouldn't you need some "kind" of venting to make them "safe"?


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## Torque1st (Jan 11, 2010)

Nice machine, one of those once-in-a-lifetime finds. You will enjoy it.

For a 3HP machine a VFD will probably be your best choice.

Good choice on the wrecker for unloading the lathe.:thumbsup:


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## 65535 (Jan 11, 2010)

That is a sweet setup. Got the steady rest, tailstock, compound cross slide, looks like carriage mounted flood coolant.

And a light coat of surface rust that can be stripped with a little penetrating oil and some hand rubbing. I am super jealous. Even if you don't care about variable speed, a VFD is your best bet for running 3PH motors on 1PH power. Unless you can find a cheap SS phase converter.


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## darkzero (Jan 11, 2010)

Awesome package Bill & great to have you here. Hope you'll stick around. Sounds like you really got a good deal. May I ask how much you got it for? You must be excited. Nice job on the move.

Is that a chip guard for the handwheel? Pretty cool. 

If your looking for one, I've got a new unused China BXA Wedge Tool post that I'm not going to use. Since you're a CPF member now () I'll give it to you for a great price to get you started.




Pidg said:


> I took a Machining Metal course (only 2 credit hours) over 30 years ago. I also worked as mechanic in a Brake & Front End shop where I turned brake drums and rotors on a specialized brake drum lathe and a separate rotor lathe, while I was in college.
> 
> In the past few years, I have also used the engine lathes at work for simple projects. But the machinists always set up the tooling, so I have a lot to learn.
> Bill Pidgeon


 
I was a mechanic at a performance shop for over 5 years back in the beginning of 2000. An Ammco brake lathe is the closest thing I've used to a real lathe but turning rotors & drums are far simplier to turn & the brake lathe is much more simplier. Turned down some crank pulleys on it too though. :laughing: Same concept though. Once you learn all the controls sounds like you'll be pro in no time.


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## sortafast (Jan 11, 2010)

wquiles said:


> Wouldn't you need some "kind" of venting to make them "safe"?


It needs a little fresh air, but other than that its not bad. I usually just crack the garage door just a bit. But I don't run it for more than 20mins as it gets pretty toasty in there. Reading the manual for it, it says its fine.


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## precisionworks (Jan 11, 2010)

> It needs a little fresh air, but other than that its not bad.


+1

We've had an unvented gas log set for six or seven years. Saturday & Sunday it ran from 7 a.m. until about 11 p.m. We have CO detectors all around the house & none have ever alarmed. Probably means that we need better windows & doors :laughing:


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## Pidg (Jan 11, 2010)

sortafast said:


> I know I only live in OR, but I got one of these used from a friend and it was the best money I have ever spent on a "tool" for the garage. Takes about 5min to take the edge off, and 15min to make it very very pleasant. Plus if the power goes out I can still heat the house (or a couple rooms at least). Just gotta find Kerosene on the cheap.



Wow, I forgot those kerosene heaters existed. My father bought one during the energy crises around 1974 or 5. 

I appreciate the idea, thanks. However, I think there's a safety issue with using that in a garage, if you park your vehicle or other gasoline fueled machine, or store a gasoline container. Since gasoline vapor accumulates at floor level, and the kerosene heater uses combustion, the combination could lead to serious consequences. And if you have kids, the probability goes up exponentially.

If you don't have gasoline or other heavier-than-air gaseous combustible, it does look like it could be the ticket. As I remember, most of the heat generated is radiant, so the 5 to 15 minute warmup sounds like it's one of the better options.

Thanks,
Bill


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## StrikerDown (Jan 11, 2010)

Pidg,
:welcome:




precisionworks said:


> +1
> 
> We've had an unvented gas log set for six or seven years. Saturday & Sunday it ran from 7 a.m. until about 11 p.m. We have CO detectors all around the house & none have ever alarmed. Probably means that we need better windows & doors :laughing:



6-7 years... it's time for batteries in the detectors! :nana:


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## Pidg (Jan 11, 2010)

darkzero said:


> ...May I ask how much you got it for? You must be excited.
> 
> ...If your looking for one, I've got a new unused China BXA Wedge Tool post that I'm not going to use.
> 
> ...



Hi Will,

Including Ohio's 7% sales tax and GoDove's 18% fee, it came to $2052, which is far and away the best deal I've ever gotten, bar none. That translates to my winning bid being $1625. It's not too surprising, given the deflation in 2009; the first in my lifetime. Here in Michigan, there is much financial pain, and that's what leads to deals like this. So, my enthusiasm is tempered.

CDCO had a package for a BXA tool post set with 5 holders for $89, so I bought that. But thanks for asking.

So that "safety guard" is a chip guard. Somewhere I saw that piece called a safety guard , but I couldn't figure it out. In fact, I was thinking it could be pinch hazard. You calling it a chip guard turned on the light - thanks. The manual on the Enco site isn't very good. But it appears that this lathe is also sold as a Birmingham and as a Lux Matter, so I'm getting info from several different sites.

I'm pretty sure I used an Ammco drum lathe also, but I never considered using it for anything but brake drums. Pretty creative Will - using it for pulleys.

Working for a performance shop sounds a lot more interesting than brakes and front ends. Brings up a lot of memorys. I also worked in a Dodge dealership, and Montgomery Wards, and for a ready-mix concrete company with Oshkosh trucks. I did some drag racing and won a few trophys. Full-disclosure, I won trophys because there weren't any other cars in my class. I had an Opel Kadett Rallye Sport, and 1965 Chevelle with a 283 2-barrell. I swapped out the original 3-speed for a Muncie 4 speed & headers, which took me out of the stock class - no competition with a 2 barrel carb & headers... A friend had a '67 Chevelle with 396, 375 hp, 4.88 rear end, & headers. Back in my crazy days, we did some street racing with his car, which turned low 11's, at the track. That was really fast for a street car in the late 60's. Thanks for stirring up the memories.

Bill


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## Pidg (Jan 11, 2010)

65535 said:


> That is a sweet setup. Got the steady rest, tailstock, compound cross slide, looks like carriage mounted flood coolant.
> 
> And a light coat of surface rust that can be stripped with a little penetrating oil and some hand rubbing. I am super jealous. Even if you don't care about variable speed, a VFD is your best bet for running 3PH motors on 1PH power. Unless you can find a cheap SS phase converter.



Thanks. The camera sees more rust that the human eye detects, judging from my eye and comments I've heard from others. But I'd like to get it polished like Will Q's, but I'm not that motivated with these temperatures. Brrrrr!

Bill


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## Pidg (Jan 11, 2010)

Torque1st said:


> Nice machine, one of those once-in-a-lifetime finds. You will enjoy it.
> 
> For a 3HP machine a VFD will probably be your best choice.
> 
> Good choice on the wrecker for unloading the lathe.:thumbsup:



Torque1st and StrikerDown - thanks for the kind welcomes.

I agree that a VFD is best - I haven't even considered the alternatives.

Bill


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## mdocod (Jan 12, 2010)

Around $500 will buy a natural gas ceiling mount shop furnace with draft assist and horizontal exhaust for easy install into garages and such. I Can't remember if ours is 45,000 or 60,000 BTU, either way, it does a remarkable job of warming up the garage/shop even when the temps outside are intolerable. Plan on an extra couple hundred to have the gas run into the garage if you have someone else do it for you. We ran the black pipe ourselves, wasn't too awful hard. The nice thing about this style heater is that it vents exhaust outside like a normal furnace.. No more torpedo heater and kerosene heater headaches from breathing emissions.


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## precisionworks (Aug 15, 2010)

> I was sure I'd have a VFD by now, but your thread on an RPC for your new lathe (Congrats!) was a wake up call that I should consider an RPC for my lathe. I don't know if the foot brake has an interlock with the motor, and haven't made any effort to explore it. I really want a VFD, but I don't spend money until I'm pretty sure I have the right solution.



Bill,

To get the lathe up and running, a RPC is cheap & fast to build. As much as I like VFD's, none of the features have been missed since my machine (like yours) already has a pretty low speed, foot brake, etc. If you want to look at lots of ways to build a RPC, here's a source: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v.../rotary-phase-converter-designs-plans-101231/



> Also, I have no tooling. I want to go with inserts, but the there are so many choices and I'll mainly be turning steel, so most of the advice here pertaining to aluminum and tungsten isn't my first priority.


On a machine like yours, you'll get a lot of use from a "workhorse" insert like the CNMG-432 (or -431 or -433). Tons of tooling for that on eBay, so a lifetime supply of inserts might cost $100 If you ever need a high positive insert for aluminum, those are also available in CNMG-4XX.

Start with that one shape & purchase other shapes as needed. With the RPC and just a little tooling, you'll be making chips for $200-$300 and a bit of time.


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## Pidg (Aug 15, 2010)

precisionworks said:


> Bill,
> 
> On a machine like yours, you'll get a lot of use from a "workhorse" insert like the CNMG-432 (or -431 or -433). Tons of tooling for that on eBay, so a lifetime supply of inserts might cost $100 If you ever need a high positive insert for aluminum, those are also available in CNMG-4XX.
> 
> Start with that one shape & purchase other shapes as needed. With the RPC and just a little tooling, you'll be making chips for $200-$300 and a bit of time.



With the RPC and just a little tooling, you'll be making chips for $200-$300 and a bit of time.[/QUOTE]


Thanks Barry, nice to get advice on inserts from an expert. 

On the RPC, I've read some complaints about RPC's being loud. But the noise complaints don't seem to be universal. I've been reading about them at Practical Machining, and the noise issue is probably the main reason why I haven't already built one.

The other issue is that I also have a Clausing 8520 Mill that I took apart to get it down to the basement, and I haven't reassembled yet. I will buy a VFD for it. I figured if I buy a 3 hp VFD, I could move it from the lathe to the mill. 

I've read that one of the VFDs can accept the parameters for two motors, and you just toggle the settings for each. Here's the link:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...ew-one-206313/





06-23-2010, 12:02 AM 


 macona




Diamond
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 5,095 
Blog Entries: 2






I recently got a Cerus 3HP drive. It is really nice and has some neat features like it can run two motors with two different sets of tuning parameters. Not at the same time of course. An input can be configured to swap between the two. The drive stops the motor and activates a relay to swap motors and changes its parameters.
. 

Also I expect to use the mill at least 2x (maybe 10x) the lathe time, so it would mainly sit on the mill. But, your point about the low speed capability of the lathe applies to the mill which goes down to 180 rpm. So, an RPC will power both machines adequately without much of a compromise, unless the noise is really an issue.

One more complication :sick2: is that I bought a metal cutting blade for my Delta 14" wood bandsaw. But the speed is too high, so I'd like to put a 3ph motor on the bandsaw and control the speed with a VFD.

Barry - you've motivated me to get to the bottom of the lathe interlocks today. I'll report back later.

I'd appreciate comments on RPC noise (from any of you), and I'll look into the "CNMG-432 (or -431 or -433)" inserts - nice to have a starting point.

Bill


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## precisionworks (Aug 15, 2010)

> I've read some complaints about RPC's being loud


I owned one commercial RPC that was irritating, but my 10hp shop built unit is no more noisy than any 1725 rpm motor is while running. Locate the RPC near the breaker panel & as far away as possible from the lathe & mill ... or build an acoustic enclosure for the RPC if it still makes more noise than you want. Installing new bearings in any surplus motor will almost always make it more quiet. Whatever else you do, don't get a 3450 rpm motor for an idler as the fan noise is louder than a rock concert :nana:



> I've read that one of the VFDs can accept the parameters for two motors, and you just toggle the settings for each.


Macona (from the PM forum) is really sharp & is one of the few people who can pull off the "one VFD for two motor" approach. A VFD is designed to be hard wired from drive to motor. Many drives do include multiple motor parameters *because those drives will receive instructions from a PLC*. Not being human, PLC's rarely screw up in the dozen or so ways that will kill a VFD. If you read much about freq drives, or you take a few college level PLC courses, it becomes clear that these boxes are "designed to be hard wired from drive to motor." This topic comes up every week or two on PM, and a lot of regular contributors don't even reply, as the subject has been covered extensively. Try it if you feel the need, but don't be surprised if you smoke a drive or two in the process 



> I also have a Clausing 8520


If I had your lathe & mill, I'd run them both from a 10hp RPC. Impossible to mess up either the lathe, the mill, or the RPC. And the RPC is ready for the next 3 phase machine that follows you home 

VFD's certainly have their place, and I have 4 drives dedicated to 4 machines, because none of those machines had an rpm range that was low enough. The Clausing 8520 already has a slow speed of 180 rpm, and the TurnPro lathe goes down to 65 rpm. It would be hard (for me) to justify spending $385 for a drive that wouldn't significantly increase the usefulness of either machine, *IF *you could successfully design a control circuit that would allow using the drive on both machines ... the easiest approach being one of the low cost, limited function PLC's that are available for $300-$400. 

You may want to try the RPC first & see if you like it. If you don't, you're out little money.


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## precisionworks (Aug 15, 2010)

> I bought a metal cutting blade for my Delta 14" wood bandsaw. But the speed is too high, so I'd like to put a 3ph motor on the bandsaw and control the speed with a VFD.



Figure the sfpm needed for metal cutting, as that will tell you the motor size needed for VFD control ... and the motor will be big.

The Delta runs a nominal 3000 sfpm, and for metal cutting the blade needs to run about 150 sfpm, meaning that the blade speed will be 1/20 of what the saw is designed for. To have the same 1 hp that you now have at 3000 sfpm means powering the saw with a 20hp motor. Horsepower is directly proportional to speed, so a 20hp motor will make 1 hp when running at 1/20 of full speed (3 Hz frequency setting on the VFD). Since you VFD will need to run from 1ph power, you'll need a 40hp drive to operate the 20hp motor. A 40hp drive will cost about $2000, plus the cost of the 20hp motor ... you can buy a band saw designed for metal cutting for less than that :nana:


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## Pidg (Aug 15, 2010)

precisionworks said:


> I owned one commercial RPC that was irritating, but my 10hp shop built unit is no more noisy than any 1725 rpm motor is while running.
> 
> ...If I had your lathe & mill, I'd run them both from a 10hp RPC. Impossible to mess up either the lathe, the mill, or the RPC. And the RPC is ready for the next 3 phase machine that follows you home
> 
> ...You may want to try the RPC first & see if you like it. If you don't, you're out little money.



Barry, thanks for taking the time to share your wisdom. I can't find any faults in your logic. So, you've convinced me that the RPC is the reasonable way to start. 

Also, hearing that your RPC sounds like a 1725 rpm motor dispels my concerns about the noise. I'll return to your thread about your RPC and do some reading at PM to see which designs appeal to me. I have a lot of experience with single phase wiring, and only a little with 3ph. I expect I'll learn a lot in the process.


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## Pidg (Aug 15, 2010)

precisionworks said:


> Figure the sfpm needed for metal cutting, as that will tell you the motor size needed for VFD control ... and the motor will be big.
> 
> The Delta runs a nominal 3000 sfpm, and for metal cutting the blade needs to run about 150 sfpm, meaning that the blade speed will be 1/20 of what the saw is designed for. To have the same 1 hp that you now have at 3000 sfpm means powering the saw with a 20hp motor. Horsepower is directly proportional to speed, so a 20hp motor will make 1 hp when running at 1/20 of full speed (3 Hz frequency setting on the VFD). Since you VFD will need to run from 1ph power, you'll need a 40hp drive to operate the 20hp motor. A 40hp drive will cost about $2000, plus the cost of the 20hp motor ... you can buy a band saw designed for metal cutting for less than that :nana:



Wow Barry, you saved me from wasting my money. I looked at horizontal bandsaws to get an idea of their sfpm, but I didn't analyze it down to the motor speed.  Thanks for the head's up!

Back to the drawing board. I read (many years ago) that motorcycle transmissions were good for running machinery at variable speeds, and obviously multiplies torque when the output speed is less than the input speed. I think that all motorcycles in the last few decades have transmissions integrated with the engine, so that doesn't sound workable.

Any ideas for finding a used transmission from some mass produced product, that can be adapted to a bandsaw? Just flipping a lever would provide the speed change. I'll have to look at the transmission on my front-loading washer.

Thanks,
Bill


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## precisionworks (Aug 16, 2010)

> I have a lot of experience with single phase wiring, and only a little with 3ph.


Wiring a RPC is not much more involved than most 1ph jobs ... here's the diagram I used:







> motorcycle transmissions were good for running machinery at variable speeds


+1

To get the blade speed where you want, a transmission of some sort is the easiest way. You may want to look at some of the gear reducers on eBay that give about a 20:1 reduction: http://cgi.ebay.com/Boston-Gear-300...r-20-1-NR-/270619962005?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

They don't have different ranges, but my band saw has stayed on the same belt/sheave combination for over ten years


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## choffman (Aug 16, 2010)

Very sweet lathe. I'm totally jealous.
Just came across this one on Craigslist tonight.

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/tls/1901927004.html

I got a feeling a tow truck isn't gonna cut it.


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## precisionworks (Aug 17, 2010)

> I got a feeling a tow truck isn't gonna cut it.


:twothumbs

An 18" Pacemaker is one of the nicest "small" lathes ever built. Big enough to do lots of work, little enough to fit into most shops, very heavily constructed. 











http://www.lathes.co.uk/pacemaker/index.html

I'd be thrilled to have that machine in my shop, even if a rigger had to be hired to move it in.


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## KC2IXE (Aug 18, 2010)

Yeah, nice lathes, got to play (literally - just some test cuts) with one, once

But small? Well, I guess it depends on your personal definition of 'small' - My breakpoint on small/Not small is about the 13x40 class of new lathes, or the 10 to 12 inch swing toolroom lathes/classic Southbends, logans etc

There are many, many, many times I didn't listen my wife, and I insisted that we move to the more rural burbs, so I could have at least a 2 car garage and/or an exterior basement entry


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## Pidg (Aug 22, 2010)

precisionworks said:


> Wiring a RPC is not much more involved than most 1ph jobs ... here's the diagram I used:
> 
> To get the blade speed where you want, a transmission of some sort is the easiest way. You may want to look at some of the gear reducers on eBay that give about a 20:1 reduction: http://cgi.ebay.com/Boston-Gear-300...r-20-1-NR-/270619962005?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0
> 
> They don't have different ranges, but my band saw has stayed on the same belt/sheave combination for over ten years



Barry, thanks for the diagram and the lead on the 20:1 reducer. It's been a busy week - sorry I didn't thank you sooner. Part of the busyness was repairing my front load washer - it wouldn't drain, nor spin. Funny this happened a few days after mentioning I'd have to check the transmission on my front load washer.

Turns out that the washer won't spin if the drain pump doesn't turn. I found a quarter and three nickels in the impeller housing, and a twist-tie wrapped around the impeller shaft. No wonder the pump wouldn't turn. After cleaning out the pump, the washer is working fine. :twothumbs

I didn't see a transmission on the bottom end of the washer where I was poking around to get at the drain pump. I thinks it uses a variable speed motor rather than a transmission, but I haven't confirmed that. It's a Frigidaire Gallery front loader that's 12 years old - first time I had to tinker with it.

Thanks again for all the info.

Bill


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## precisionworks (Aug 22, 2010)

> I thinks it uses a variable speed motor rather than a transmission


Not sure about yours, but my LG front loader uses a variable speed DC motor that directly drives the drum. DC motors have the advantage of being quite compact, making them well suited to this application.


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## Errol Groff (Jul 4, 2011)

To get the blade speed where you want, a transmission of some sort is the easiest way. You may want to look at some of the gear reducers on eBay that give about a 20:1 reduction: http://cgi.ebay.com/Boston-Gear-300...r-20-1-NR-/270619962005?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

They don't have different ranges, but my band saw has stayed on the same belt/sheave combination for over ten years [/QUOTE]


Here is a photo of a speed reducer that Rich Carlstadt tied to his band saw. Rich lives in Green Bay WI and is a master modeler.

http://neme-s.org/Oshkosh_2007/Carlstedt/DSC02356.JPG

Errol Groff
Webmaster for the New England Model Engineering Society
http://neme-s.org/


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## precisionworks (Jul 5, 2011)

> Any ideas for finding a used transmission from some mass produced product, that can be adapted to a bandsaw?


A two speed gearmotor might also work, depending on the two speed ranges. A local person has thousands of motors in stock, mostly surplus, and quite a few gearmotors. Also, installing a 3-step or 4-step sheave on a 2-speed gearmotor would yield 6 or 8 speeds.


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