# ZebraLight H600(w) XM-L 750 Lm



## JA(me)S

Known Preliminary Information:

Status: Both the H600 & H600w are scheduled to be released in September 2011.

Features:


White: Cree XM-L 6300 nominal CCT, 65 typical CRI
Neutral: Cree XM-L, 4200 nominal CCT, 75 typical CRI
Beam Type: Spill + Spot
Modes: 8
Max Output: 750/500 Lms (white)
Low Output: .1 Lms (1920 hours, (white))
Battery: one 18650
All levels are current regulated

:thumbsup: - Jas.



_Features will be added to this post when available._


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## Glock27

Please clarify! The name of the thread contains H600w yet the body states SC600. 
I hope you mean that both an SC600w AND H600w will be available in September!!??!!
G27


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## claudeswares

If you check the online spreadsheet, it says both H600 and H600w will launch Sept 2011.


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## Glock27

w00T! $190 saved for an H600w + SC600w!


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## JA(me)S

Well, that's embarrassing! :duh2: I had just spent time in the SC600 thread before posting this - my apologies. Both the H600 and H600w are scheduled for a September release. (and you shouldn't have to wait that long for the SC600w - it is scheduled for release in August.)

 - Jas.


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## skyfire

still no support for 2x primaries?

thanks for the heads up


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## B0wz3r

Okay, I'm going to ask a dumb question here... Why would anyone need 750L from a headlamp?

Admittedly I'm not a caver or anything like that, but I do use headlamps a lot for camping and household uses as well, but I find the 169L H1 setting of my H51w to be plenty bright for all of my needs. What's more, the more power output of a headlamp, the worse the tunnel vision effect for me.

Just seems like overkill to me.


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## pjandyho

B0wz3r said:


> Okay, I'm going to ask a dumb question here... Why would anyone need 750L from a headlamp?
> 
> Admittedly I'm not a caver or anything like that, but I do use headlamps a lot for camping and household uses as well, but I find the 169L H1 setting of my H51w to be plenty bright for all of my needs. What's more, the more power output of a headlamp, the worse the tunnel vision effect for me.
> 
> Just seems like overkill to me.


 
Agree with you Prof, but I still want one 

Could always choose not to turn it on high until needed.


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## JA(me)S

B0wz3r said:


> Okay, I'm going to ask a dumb question here... Why would anyone need 750L from a headlamp?


How does 200 Lms for 6 hours or 65 Lms for 18 hours sound? (My guesses)

- Jas.


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## blackbalsam

I guess i'll be ordering 1 of each.


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## pjandyho

JA(me)S said:


> How does 200 Lms for 6 hours or 65 Lms for 18 hours sound? (My guesses)
> 
> - Jas.


 
I think that sounds GREAT! A headlamp running for 6 hours on full regulation, why not?


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## Zeruel

B0wz3r said:


> Okay, I'm going to ask a dumb question here... Why would anyone need 750L from a headlamp?


 

Just imagine, the power of the Sun on your forehead.... all the creatures of the night will bow down before thee, a supernatural being with rays spewing out of the head.

I would want one because I'd normally strap it to my gear to use it as a handsfree flashlight instead of a headlamp. So, a brighter output option is always good.


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## JA(me)S

Zeruel said:


> Just imagine, the power of the Sun on your forehead.... all the creatures of the night will bow down before thee, a supernatural being with rays spewing out of the head.


But he'd have to change his name to Helios:







- Jas.


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## Zeruel

So that's what the "H" in H600 is for....


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## bogmonster

This looks like the light I have been waiting for providing the spill is good. There was a question if this was overkill. I am a caver and no it is not from my perspective.

At the moment I cave with an Oldham caplamp, Speliotechnics headlite battery pack and a Custom Duo LED insert. This gives 150lm for about 10 hours or 400lm for a lot less but it is heavy and bulky. As I cave a lot in tight caves (Mendip, UK) then I am on the lookout for small setups with a long runtime.

It is also nice to have a good throw momentarily when looking up into avens and route finding in larger systems.

I actually often cave with a ZL H51 as my main light. In tight passage ways 30lm is plenty and the 100lm setting is fine when the cave opens out a bit or on tricky climbs. However, more light more often would be less of a comprimise. The other point is that as everyone else gets brighter lights a dim light becomes more dangerous - somebody walking behind you throws you into shadow. There are increasing numbers of cavers with high end lights now like Scurions.

I know it was a different thread about ZL reliability but I would say my H51 has never let me down and it gets a very tough life caving. Got me safely out of Thrupe Lane Swallet when my primary light brike the other day.

I was looking at the Spark SD5 but this is flood only so I think this will be much better. The other Sparks don't have enough flood and too tight a spot for caving IMHO.

BogMonster


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## Outdoorsman5

B0wz3r said:


> Okay, I'm going to ask a dumb question here... Why would anyone need 750L from a headlamp?
> 
> Admittedly I'm not a caver or anything like that, but I do use headlamps a lot for camping and household uses as well, but I find the 169L H1 setting of my H51w to be plenty bright for all of my needs. What's more, the more power output of a headlamp, the worse the tunnel vision effect for me.
> 
> Just seems like overkill to me.


 
Cus it'd be really cool!!
Also, I go trail running before the sun comes up, and my H51w is just not bright enough. If walking then it's fine, but every morning there are fresh spider webs across the trail that need to be avoided. So the brighter the better for spotting them. Currently I use two lights to get the job done (ZL SC60 on a nitecore headband and a Quark Turbo X.) I bet the H600 would get the job done on its own.


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## B0wz3r

I can see there would be needs for an overkill headlamp... But with caving, it sounds like you're describing a photonic arms race... everyone is out to get the brightest light so they can see over everyone else's light... then they go out and get something even brighter, then you have to get something brighter than that... before you know it, everyone is blinded!!!

The long runtime on a low lumen setting sounds nice. I personally have never needed more than the 10 hours on M1 from my H51w though.


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## EnduringEagle

JA(me)S said:


> Known Preliminary Information:
> 
> Status: Both the H600 & H600w are scheduled to be released in September 2011.
> 
> Features:
> 
> 
> [*]White: Cree XM-L 6300 nominal CCT, 65 typical CRI
> [*]Neutral: Cree XM-L, 4200 nominal CCT, 75 typical CRI
> [*]Beam Type: Spill + Spot
> [*]Modes: 8
> [*]Max Output: 750/500 Lms (white)
> [*]Low Output: .1 Lms (1920 hours, (white))
> [*]Battery: one 18650
> [*]All levels are current regulated
> 
> 
> :thumbsup: - Jas.
> 
> Features will be added to this post when available.



Are there pictures available?


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## jake25

bogmonster said:


> I was looking at the Spark SD5 but this is flood only so I think this will be much better. The other Sparks don't have enough flood and too tight a spot for caving IMHO.
> 
> BogMonster


All of the Spark headlamps have a removable bezel and a flood lens included.


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## JS_280

Estimated 1920 hours at .1 lumens? NICE! Just wish they could make L1 at .02 lumens and L2 at .1 lumens. One can dream...


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## uknewbie

Does anyone know details about this light?

Looks Same as H60? Or centred LED like SPARK?
Beam type? Hot spot or even flood?

Sounds promising, I dare say this will be bought over the H502...


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## Alan

B0wz3r said:


> Okay, I'm going to ask a dumb question here... Why would anyone need 750L from a headlamp?


 
I don't use it as headlamp. I always use ZL Hxx as multifunction utility light. Believe me, it serves as a great unidirectional lantern. I hope this would be a real flood light like those make ZL famous and unique instead of those using reflector with frosted lens.

Edited later. It's H600 not H602:-(


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## skyfire

JA(me)S said:


> How does 200 Lms for 6 hours or 65 Lms for 18 hours sound? (My guesses)
> 
> - Jas.


 
thats the reason why i need me a XM-L headlamp.

using my H501w on max gets hot, and causes my head to sweat!

driving a XM-L lower, with extended runtimes, and still providing around 100 lumens would be ideal for me.

also, having a flood beam. imagine 700 lumens of pure flood!


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## uknewbie

Just noticed in the initial spec it is spot plus flood.

Not for me then. H502 it is.


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## pblanch

JS_280 said:


> Estimated 1920 hours at .1 lumens? NICE! Just wish they could make L1 at .02 lumens and L2 at .1 lumens. One can dream...



I have a H51 and its 0.2lm looks the same as the 0.1lm. I think its the bigger reflector.


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## Beacon of Light

JS_280 said:


> Estimated 1920 hours at .1 lumens? NICE! Just wish they could make L1 at .02 lumens and L2 at .1 lumens. One can dream...


 
That would be nice. Anyone know if the QTC (Quantum Tunnelling Composite) material will work in a Zebralight for getting lower lows?


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## JS_280

pblanch said:


> I have a H51 and its 0.2lm looks the same as the 0.1lm. I think its the bigger reflector.


 
I'm thinking more along the lines of a super-low low at .02 lumen. I have a H51Fw and the .2 lumen setting on it is still WAY too bright for going to the bathroom or checking on the dog at night.


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## Bolster

My ThruNite Neutron has 0.1 lumen and it's just about right for a midnight wakeup. Reducing that by a fifth would be too dim for my use, just my opinion.

The currently running poll is telling us that people are more concerned about a light going LOW enough, than HIGH enough! Ha!


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## JS_280

Bolster said:


> My ThruNite Neutron has 0.1 lumen and it's just about right for a midnight wakeup. Reducing that by a fifth would be too dim for my use, just my opinion.
> 
> The currently running poll is telling us that people are more concerned about a light going LOW enough, than HIGH enough! Ha!


 
The current low on my H51Fw would be sufficient if I wasn't worried about waking my wife who is a light sleeper. It would also be nice to have a dimmer light to avoid waking the dog if I check on her in her crate.

But to keep from sidetracking this thread, the current estimated numbers are looking very impressive. It's almost comical that the Flashlight industry is able to quote very usable outputs for (what used to be) insane periods of runtime...and here I am wishing for the dimmest version of it. Guess I'll have to buy this one AND the new JetBeam RRT-0 so i can have the .003 lumen low. It's a great time to be a flashaholic... ;-)


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## Beacon of Light

JS_280 said:


> Guess I'll have to buy this one AND the new JetBeam RRT-0 so i can have the .003 lumen low. It's a great time to be a flashaholic... ;-)


 
And that's a great light for ANY flashaholic. Perfect low lows!


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## Beaker

B0wz3r said:


> Okay, I'm going to ask a dumb question here... Why would anyone need 750L from a headlamp? Admittedly I'm not a caver or anything like that,.


 
You answered your own question there 

For most caving, a light output of 100-200 lumens is actually more than enough, but if you're caving in *big* caves, or doing cave photography, a light with that much output isn't at all unreasonable. 

For some droolworthy examples, check out http://mulucaves.org/ -- these guys are using Scurions, a purpose-built caving light with up to 1500 lumen output.


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## JA(me)S

EnduringEagle said:


> Are there pictures available?


 No known pics yet... but using my imagination, I'd think it will look something like the H51 - just a bigger version (or like a headlamp version of the SC60).

- Jas.


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## robostudent5000

Beaker said:


> For most caving, a light output of 100-200 lumens is actually more than enough, but if you're caving in *big* caves, or doing cave photography, a light with that much output isn't at all unreasonable.
> 
> For some droolworthy examples, check out http://mulucaves.org/ -- these guys are using Scurions, a purpose-built caving light with up to 1500 lumen output.


 
those are some amazing pics!


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## LED_Thrift

B0wz3r said:


> Okay, I'm going to ask a dumb question here... Why would anyone need 750L from a headlamp?


I've done two activities that could actually use a lot more light than I had available. Mountain biking, where your max speed on the downhills is proportionally dependant on how bright your light(s) are. I was going down trails slower than I would have during the day because my PrincetonTec headlamp didn't have enough throw. The same is true with backcountry skiing, although with the nice white reflective snow I don't know if I would need the full 750 lumens, just more than I had at the time. 

I've also been caving and wanted more light, but not to the extent that biking or skiing made me want more. I've never been to really big rooms. The main criteria for caving lights is rugged reliability.


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## HIDblue

Anyone have any updates on the H600??? I'm really looking forward to this one and the anticipation is killin' me...


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## psychbeat

does anyone know if MAX high mode will have a 5 min stepdown like the Spark?

I HATE this "feature" personally... its a bummer when it steps down while descending 
a gnarly trail at night or other times you really need all of the light you can get.


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## Mathiashogevold

Any updates? 
Im really looking forward for this!


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## joanne

B0wz3r said:


> Okay, I'm going to ask a dumb question here... Why would anyone need 750L from a headlamp?
> 
> Admittedly I'm not a caver or anything like that, but I do use headlamps a lot for camping and household uses as well, but I find the 169L H1 setting of my H51w to be plenty bright for all of my needs. What's more, the more power output of a headlamp, the worse the tunnel vision effect for me.
> 
> Just seems like overkill to me.


 
You are quite right that it would be overkill for _most_ applications. 

Then there are some of us who could use that much light during our less sane activities. While I haven't been in a cave for many years, I regularly explore old mines. When dropping a shaft for the first time it would be really great to have a feel for just how deep it is and its condition further down. 







At this point I'm only about 50 feet down a 250 foot drop.









I'm only about 1/2 down this incline. The speck of light at the top right is my exploring buddy at the top of the incline. 

I certainly wouldn't want 750L all the time but it would be nice to have it available.

*Joanne*


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## DisrupTer911

Not to get off topic but where do you find abandoned mines like those?


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## varuscelli

DisrupTer911 said:


> Not to get off topic but where do you find abandoned mines like those?


 
The same place where you find all the archived CPF messages from eons past. 

Well...that's what I _heard_. 

Actually, those are some pretty cool mine shafts. Love it. I could see 750L coming in pretty handy in that environment, even if only for short bursts at a time.


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## joanne

DisrupTer911 said:


> Not to get off topic but where do you find abandoned mines like those?


 
Those photos are all from southern Nevada. We have a lot of old mines out in the desert and they tend to be in pretty good condition. I have a lot of photos on my website http://www.asolidfoundation.com/mines/mine_home.htm if you are interested. The Delamar page is one of the best. The Sultan is pretty cool too.

*Joanne*


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## pjandyho

Wish I could visit one of the mines in my life.


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## psychbeat

If these have the 5min auto level down I'll probably pass. 
I already have the st6 460nw so...
I dont really have an excuse to "upgrade". 
Although, the zebra form factor will probably be less floppy. 

Hmmmmm


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## leaftye

Wow, Spark just got some serious competition.



B0wz3r said:


> Okay, I'm going to ask a dumb question here... Why would anyone need 750L from a headlamp?



When I click my light on and see a mountain lion or bear within 30 feet of where I lie, I want a MUCH brighter light setting when I go to scare it off so I can make sure it's long gone.



So my dumb question...would this work with a pair of CR123's instead of a 18650?


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## Glock27

leaftye said:


> So my dumb question...would this work with a pair of CR123's instead of a 18650?



Nope. I wouldn't unless I had a spare one. 2*CR123 would be at least 50% over voltage. Has anyone tried it either in an SC600 or SC60?

G27


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## B0wz3r

Pics snipped to shorten post.



joanne said:


> You are quite right that it would be overkill for _most_ applications.
> 
> Then there are some of us who could use that much light during our less sane activities. While I haven't been in a cave for many years, I regularly explore old mines. When dropping a shaft for the first time it would be really great to have a feel for just how deep it is and its condition further down.
> 
> At this point I'm only about 50 feet down a 250 foot drop.
> 
> I'm only about 1/2 down this incline. The speck of light at the top right is my exploring buddy at the top of the incline.
> 
> I certainly wouldn't want 750L all the time but it would be nice to have it available.
> 
> *Joanne*


 
I went camping for a week at Lava Beds National Monument with my wife and kids a few weeks ago, and did some real caving for the first time in my life. The entire place there is honeycombed with old lava tubes. I had a blast actually... 

Now that I've done that, I can see why you'd want a super bright light, but not necessarily a headlamp... In sections where I had to go on hands and knees, or belly crawl, the M2 setting on my ST5-190NW was plenty of light. But, in sections where you were walking, or stepping over stones or clambering over boulders and the like, my headlamp gave me bad tunnel vision. I stumbled several times because I couldn't see the texture of the floor of the cave, and so it looked flat to me instead of the highly irregular and broken surface that it actually had. 

I solved this problem by angling my Spark up a little higher so it lit up the roof of the cave pretty well, which was very useful as most of the tubes there have ceilings covered in lava-cicles, and they can hurt like a b***h if you bang into one. I put my Zebralight SC50w+ on a lanyard around my wrist and used it as a walking light; the lower angle helped me see the surfaces in the caves much better and I had almost no missteps after that.

I also found that when we came into a big chamber or larger open space, I needed a much throwier light to see into/across the chamber. My Q123^2 XPG-R4 is certainly not a dedicated thrower, but it did well enough for me in that situation that I could see across any chamber we encountered, and down long shafts and the like. And yeah, it would have been nice if it had been something brighter, but my point is that it worked far better for me in my hand in that usage situation than on my head. Head mounting just takes too much important information away that makes a difference in my comfort and safety. So a super bright headlamp is still overkill for me, but I sure would like to go back for another trip there with a new 2x18650 XML handheld light!!!


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## Szemhazai

I have only one question in mind... How it will work ? Spark ST-6NW output on generic Blue TrustFire / Sanyo 2400 is only 400 lumens instead of 450 and is getting hot pretty fast


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## varuscelli

Szemhazai said:


> I have only one question in mind... How it will work ? Spark ST-6NW output on generic Blue TrustFire / Sanyo 2400 is only 400 lumens instead of 450 and is getting hot pretty fast


 
I'm no expert in this sort of thing, but I have a feeling that heat management could be an issue if the unit is used on its highest setting more than a couple of minutes at a time. 

I now have an SC600 and have played with it on it's highest setting, and it gets pretty hot when left on that setting for more than a minute or two -- very noticeably so when the unit is held in hand. 

The SC600 uses the Cree XM-L LED, which is the same that's listed for the H600/H600w. I don't see anything listed as far as weight or length for the H600, so I don't know if there are any indicators of much design change from other ZebraLight headlamps. Maybe the body design will be much like the H60...? But I never used the H60, so I have no idea how well it handled heat, either. Maybe an H60 user can comment. 

I wonder if they've done anything innovative as far as heatsinking or body design to help dissipate heat. 

My belief is that, from a practical standpoint, the use of such lights on the highest settings is probably intended to be brief and as needed but not necessarily indefinite use on high. Otherwise, I think lots of heat buildup is probably inevitable. 

It'll definitely be interesting to see how the H600 performs.


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## psychbeat

hmm maybe since its pretty chilly at night here but my
NW460 never gets all that hot. def a little warm but nothing
compared to my high powered p60 lights. I think most
mainstream manufacturers - even small ones like Spark & Zebra
are pretty conservative. I think if they mounted the LED directly 
to small copper heatsinks they could hit 3amps without any
harm. obviously you would need to be using a top quality 
18650 such as a Panasonic NCR or one of the rebranded ones
(KalliesKustom, AW ,Redilast ect)

who cares if the emitter only lasts ~5 years?!
:thumbsup:lovecpf


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## plengqui

B0wz3r said:


> Okay, I'm going to ask a dumb question here... Why would anyone need 750L from a headlamp?



Orienteering at night. Then you basically want portable daylight.
This is a video of some hundred runners wearing 1000-3000lm headlamps setting off into the dark forrests of Sweden:


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## Changchung

plengqui said:


> Orienteering at night. Then you basically want portable daylight.
> This is a video of some hundred runners wearing 1000-3000lm headlamps setting off into the dark forrests of Sweden:
> [video=[/video]



I like this video, I will like to see those runners in the forest...

Cool, I find some...


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## B0wz3r

plengqui said:


> Orienteering at night. Then you basically want portable daylight.
> This is a video of some hundred runners wearing 1000-3000lm headlamps setting off into the dark forrests of Sweden:


 
That's just insane!!!


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## VC CH

EnduringEagle said:


> Are there pictures available?


 
curious


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## Zenbaas

Hopefully this gets released soon!


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## insanefred

I'd like to hear some kind of announcement soon, my spouse said she will buy me a hand lamp  for my birthday. Or, I'll just end up getting the sparks ST6-460NW.


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## spelunkik

Did they just push back the arrival date of the 600w on their product comparison spreadsheet?? Now it seems only the cool white version will be debuting this month. I was waiting on the 600w before making a headlamp purchase decision, but if they are going to make me wait even longer now than I already have then screw it, I'm going with the Spark 460nw!! Zebralight, you just lost some business... :thumbsdow


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## davidt1

Due to the location of the lens and other things, the H600 and the 460NW are two very different lights, apples and oranges. Whatever light you buy, buy it for the right reasons/uses.


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## B0wz3r

davidt1 said:


> Due to the location of the lens and other things, the H600 and the 460NW are two very different lights, apples and oranges. Whatever light you buy, buy it for the right reasons/uses.


 
Agreed. I've found that I've come to use my Spark ST5 -190NW and my ZL H51w for pretty much completely different purposes. They have very different beam profiles. My Spark is much floodier than my H51w, so I tend to use it for things like task work, reading, etc., whereas I tend to use my H51w for things like biking, hiking, and the like. Of course, the ST6 series is supposed to be throw oriented, and the new ZL's will be flood oriented, but the point is the same. Each one will have different characteristics, so your purchase is best made based on your usage needs, rather than availability.


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## spelunkik

Maybe this is just my lack of light knowledge, but it is my perception that they are VERY much the same light. Yes, there are many minor differences, but essentially they are much more alike than a Princeton Tec Apex vs. 460NW. The PT Apex is my current lamp, and I'm looking for more light in a more waterproof package for caving. Both the Spark and Zebralight fit those criteria. It has gotten to the point where I am extremely desiring more light, and I simply have no intention of waiting much longer than I already have. My research leads me to believe that both the 460nw and 600w would be acceptable by my standards, so I would be happy with either one. I was just hoping to have the benefit of a choice. I'll wait for the cool white version of the 600 to come out, but I think I will prefer the neutral color of the Spark.


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## RCantor

Don't compromise on tint. You will be sorry as long as you own the light. The Spark 460NW is a great light but I often wish I had one more setting at 2x the lm. When you're in true wilderness as opposed to trails and you come into a clearing you need to see a lot further ahead to evaluate your route. Also, if you're walking over moss that is sometimes on solid ground and sometimes seamlessly transitions to covering small, wet, slippery logs (which is where neutral is *really* important) you need more light than when walking on trails. Similarly, if you're looking for specific flora/fungi you need way more light than just seeing what you're walking over. You have to see details at 30 - 50 feet or more or searching will be very tedious & time consuming.


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## davidt1

B0wz3r said:


> Agreed. I've found that I've come to use my Spark ST5 -190NW and my ZL H51w for pretty much completely different purposes. They have very different beam profiles. My Spark is much floodier than my H51w, so I tend to use it for things like task work, reading, etc., whereas I tend to use my H51w for things like biking, hiking, and the like. Of course, the ST6 series is supposed to be throw oriented, and the new ZL's will be flood oriented, but the point is the same. Each one will have different characteristics, so your purchase is best made based on your usage needs, rather than availability.



In my situation, I use my light up-close about 80% of the time. And I carry only one light, so it has to be as versatile as possible. A hand-held flashlight won't work because its use is limited and I have to use one hand to hold it. A traditional jockstrap headlamp won't work because it is too bulky to carry in the pocket and its use is limited. I also want a small light and use one common AA battery. A ZL AA angle light meets all my requirements. I started with the H501. Used it for about 2 years but lost it recently. I bought the H51W in January this year. This is only light I need, EDC and use. It will be replaced by the H502W though, because a pure flood beam is best for close-up use. 

For those who think ZL headlamps are like traditional jockstrap headlamps, please check out the "Zebralight Mods" thread and see the difference for yourself. They are not better or worst than other headlamps, just better for some tasks and not as good for other tasks.


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## B0wz3r

spelunkik said:


> Maybe this is just my lack of light knowledge, but it is my perception that they are VERY much the same light.


 
They're not. With the Spark, even if you use the frosted lens they come with, the beam profile is not going to be a "pure" flood beam. It will be brightest at the center, and get gradually dimmer toward the periphery of the beam. With the Zebra, it will be a pure flood in the sense that it will be equally bright across the entire profile of the beam.

If you use the regular UCL lens in the Spark, then it will become just like a regular flashlight beam, with a clearly defined bright center spot, and a dimmer surrounding side spill, and a well defined corona between the two. This is not at all what the Zebra's beam is like.

Also, I would suggest against depending on a headlamp as your sole source of light while caving. I recently did my first real caving a few weeks ago, three days of exploring the lava tubes at Lava Beds National Monument, and found that relying on my headlamp alone resulted in a nearly total lack of depth perception, and the brighter the light, the worse it got. I was stumbling at nearly every step (in the places where I could stand up to walk) because I could not see the texture of the floors of the tubes, so they looked completely flat to me, instead of the highly irregular and jagged surfaces they were. 

I solved this problem easily by lowering the output of my headlamp and angling it up so that it gave me a good view of the ceilings in the tubes (which are covered with lava-cicles and hurt like hell if you don't have a helmet on and bang your head into one), and then used a hand held light to illuminate my path while walking. I also found that having a dedicated thrower was useful too, when I needed to see down a long tube or across a large chamber. In short, three lights together worked best for me. If I had limited myself to a single headlamp, I'd have been in a world of hurt (literally) because I wouldn't have been able to see nearly as well as using a combination of a headlamp and a hand held light.


----------



## spelunkik

Erm.... are we talking about the same light? The H600, right?? What source are you basing this pure flood statement on? According to Zebralight's own product comparison spreadsheet, it clearly lists the H600 as "spill + spot" (which is very much what I would consider the Spark to be). Perhaps you are thinking of the upcoming H502, which is listed as "flood"?

As for light sources to be used while caving, every one has a unique preference, so I have no right to tell you you are right or wrong. Sometimes it depends on where you go. Starting out in my "caving career," I used to carry a handheld flashlight in my hand all the time. This was back when I was using headlamps that weren't suitable for caving. Personally, I find that if you buy an appropriate headlamp that is capable of both modest throw and flood (or one that you can switch between), additional lights are not necessary for me to safely and comfortably navigate a cave. I would not be surprised if your trouble was due at least in part to being unaccustomed to the terrain and total lack of ambient light. Besides, doing the kind of caving that I do, having one hand tied up with flashlight becomes quite the inconvenience. 

BTW, ALWAYS wear a helmet while caving... it's not worth the pain.


----------



## B0wz3r

spelunkik said:


> Erm.... are we talking about the same light? The H600, right?? What source are you basing this pure flood statement on? According to Zebralight's own product comparison spreadsheet, it clearly lists the H600 as "spill + spot" (which is very much what I would consider the Spark to be). Perhaps you are thinking of the upcoming H502, which is listed as "flood"?
> 
> As for light sources to be used while caving, every one has a unique preference, so I have no right to tell you you are right or wrong. Sometimes it depends on where you go. Starting out in my "caving career," I used to carry a handheld flashlight in my hand all the time. This was back when I was using headlamps that weren't suitable for caving. Personally, I find that if you buy an appropriate headlamp that is capable of both modest throw and flood (or one that you can switch between), additional lights are not necessary for me to safely and comfortably navigate a cave. I would not be surprised if your trouble was due at least in part to being unaccustomed to the terrain and total lack of ambient light. Besides, doing the kind of caving that I do, having one hand tied up with flashlight becomes quite the inconvenience.
> 
> BTW, ALWAYS wear a helmet while caving... it's not worth the pain.


 
I could be confusing the new ZL headlamps, yes. I thought one would be an 18650 model, which is what I thought the H600's were going to be, and an AA or 123 based model, which is what I thought the H500's were going to be.

With respect to caving use, it's not the activity that matters, but the placement of the light with respect to the position of the eyes. I might be more susceptible to it than others, but I find that headlamps give me tunnel vision; I have difficulty seeing things in the periphery that are out of the beam, and I lose a great deal of depth perception when using a headlamp. This is primarily because the closer the light is to your eyes, the less shadow it creates, which is necessary for depth perception. Caving is an extreme example though, because unless there are other people around you also using lights, there aren't any other light sources providing shadows for depth perception. Again, I may be more susceptible to this than others, but this is just a fact of the physics of light and how the eyes work. For good depth perception in the absence of other sources of light, the further away from your eyes the light source is, the better the depth perception you will have as a result.


----------



## psychbeat

unfortunately I dont think they are going to make an 18650 pure flood.
at least not according to the compare lights feature on their website.

I may end up selling my Spark460NW if the H600w is brighter....

unless SOMEONE out there makes a p60 HL host 


then Ill be done with HL purchases for a long while.

....and THEN I can get back to batteries and drop-ins!!


----------



## B0wz3r

Have you thought about one of the new MagicShine's? I don't think they make them in neutral, but they are supposed to be pretty freakin' bright... something like 900 lumens?


----------



## psychbeat

Id maybe consider the Magicshine as a head only option and make 
my own battery pack with quality Panasonics but Id want to swap the
emitters and after all of that hassle I could just have bought an expensive
custom HL. about 6 or 7 of the guys I ride with have 1-2 of the older 
Magicshine and have had ALOT of problems with the connectors and 
batts. A famous local riders house burned down supposedly from a magicshine
charging - Im not sure on the details of that one.

Hopefully these H600w will be released soon or a p60 HL host OR
Im going to just get an Ahorton Spike and just call it a day.

Ill be riding and digging quite a bit after dark as soon as the time 
changes back... Id like to have the best neutral tint HL system.

Im kinda bummed the zebra is going to stepdown from maximum after
5 min or whatever- I hate how the ST6 does that. drives me crazy and
makes me OCD on turning the light off and on again before each new
section of trail Im riding. Its cool at night here and its getting plenty of
air flow on it. no reason to step down the power and overcomplicates things.

oh well nothings perfect- unless you make it yerself... 
and then maybe only cause you made it...


----------



## spelunkik

Digging? You have made me curious.


----------



## psychbeat

spelunkik said:


> Digging? You have made me curious.


 
after riding sometimes we stay out and work on the trails n jumps - digging for short


----------



## B0wz3r

psychbeat said:


> after riding sometimes we stay out and work on the trails n jumps - digging for short


 
You're not doing that in MMWD lands are you? Naughty, naughty!!! LOL!!!

I'm reminded of some of the guys I knew in Marin years ago who helped build the New Paradigm trail... Of course MMWD got their panties in a twist and had send their rangers out and destroy the durned thing...


----------



## psychbeat

hah! I wont disclose the exact location but its on the peninsula- theres no good DH riding in 
Marin anymore due to regulation which is ironic considering thats where mountain biking
started! We usually build on private (with permission) or city land so we dont have to
deal with rangers. state rangers dont dig bike jumps  the GGNRA is pretty anti bike too
but dont have enough people to enforce it usually.. especially at night!

I feel like the H600w should be released at the same time as the CW version.. I know
that it probably wont tho..


----------



## ToyTank

I have had a couple ZL headlamps and I've loved them. The beam is what sells it. Pure smooth flood. Very useful high and low levels and included clip, headstrap, and NICE GITD headstrap piece. I'm sold not for the 750lm(dust in the air would blind you i'd think?) but for extended runtimes @ low levels. Then again maybe waiting for high CRI would be best? No more ghost worlds of blue or pink.


----------



## Zenbaas

I just really hope they release it sooner rather than later, even if it is only the CW version for now. All this waiting is killing me. I am so close to purchasing a light but first want to see if this might make a good "all purpose" alternative...! Come on ZL..get moving!


----------



## billcoe

What an amazing resource CPF is. I'll probably get in the long line for one of these. 


BTW, if anyone claims I do crazy stuff, I'm directing him to your old mine exploration web site and this pic specifically





 That's prowd. Great photos, I'd want the best light available as well in that envronment. Maybe 3-4 of them.


----------



## psychbeat

wow they'd better step on it with the new Spark SD light coming out....
I wonder who will get the neutral version ready first?
Looks like the Zebra will run the emitter a bit harder than either of the
Spark 18650 XM-L headlamps tho which is a BIG plus in my book.


----------



## spelunkik

Speaking of a long waiting line... is there really a way to pre-order?

What was the longest wait time in the past for a new Zebralight model? To be honest, I've never factored these into my buying schedule...


----------



## Cataract

I like real low modes, but I don't see how 0.02 lumens would be useful on a headlamp for other than reading... I have to hold my IFE2 real low to see more than 15 inches in front of me when I wake up at night.

To stay on track, I just learned that the H600(W) will be current regulated on all modes. Combined with the fact that it has a low around 0.2 lumens and a high at 500-750 lumens makes it my dream headlamp (mostly because it CAN fit in a pocket with the headband attached). If only it could use CR123's (or even RCR's) it would become my perfect headlamp. I guess the next generation will strike the bullet right through the target.


----------



## psychbeat

dang... the SD6 is on preorder w NW already available.

must....resist... if the SD6 was 2A instead of 1.5 on Super 
PP wouldve already been sent...

the wait continues.


----------



## leaftye

Cataract said:


> I like real low modes, but I don't see how 0.02 lumens would be useful on a headlamp for other than reading... I have to hold my IFE2 real low to see more than 15 inches in front of me when I wake up at night.



I use my lights outdoors. Specifically, when hiking. I don't like being blinded by a too-bright light when I'm trying to read my maps and trip info at night and organizing my pack before daybreak. It's not about losing night vision either. It's that the contrast between wilderness dark and low settings is often so great that it's literally painful. I usually cover part of the beam, but that's a hassle and a waste of battery life.


----------



## leaftye

psychbeat said:


> wow they'd better step on it with the new Spark SD light coming out....
> I wonder who will get the neutral version ready first?
> Looks like the Zebra will run the emitter a bit harder than either of the
> Spark 18650 XM-L headlamps tho which is a BIG plus in my book.



Spark has had 18650 headlights for quite a while. I don't see how they're new AA headlights are going to present much more competition. Right now the race is to get the first 750 lumen 18650 headlight to market.


----------



## marcis

Photos are now posted on zebralights facebook for the H600. Go check them out  I would post the photos here, but I cannot seem to get them to save as image files. Looks Great!


----------



## Glock27

w00T! CC ready! Bring on the W's! They should offer volume discounts...buy a SC600 + H600 and knock a few $$ off ;-)

G27


----------



## Sway




----------



## varuscelli

I think this one probably gives a better idea of relative size. Looks almost as long as strapping an SC60 to your forehead...but if it's as light weight as listed, even with the battery it shouldn't be too bad.


----------



## Zenbaas

Agreed...! Definitely wouldn't mind a special bundle price


----------



## Cataract

I really like this design, but is it just me or it looks like the tube has an extender... could it be also powered by 1X CR/RCR123??? that would be neat!


----------



## pjandyho

Cataract said:


> I really like this design, but is it just me or it looks like the tube has an extender... could it be also powered by 1X CR/RCR123??? that would be neat!


 
That's not an extender. It is the slot for the headband's rubber holder. Or maybe a clip?


----------



## leaftye

Cataract said:


> I really like this design, but is it just me or it looks like the tube has an extender... *could it be also powered by 1X CR/RCR123*??? that would be neat!



I agree. If a couple could be fit in there like with Spark's headlamps, it would make it easier to use on extended trips...like my next thru hike attempt of the PCT. I'm pretty sure I asked a while back and was told that this was not possible. I suppose it might still work with a dummy cell, but I don't want to use a heavy useless spacer.


----------



## RCantor

leaftye said:


> Spark has had 18650 headlights for quite a while. I don't see how they're new AA headlights are going to present much more competition. Right now the race is to get the first 750 lumen 18650 headlight to market.


 
The new Sparks are floody, the ones they've had out for a while are spot + flood. But Spark has no plans to produce anything higher than 500Lm, so they're not in the race. That's why Zebra can take their time. I own the older spark. It's a great light but in the wilderness it cries out for 1 more high mode.


----------



## Cataract

pjandyho said:


> That's not an extender. It is the slot for the headband's rubber holder. Or maybe a clip?



Hard to distinguish exactly, but it does look like seams. I would think the ribbed desing is intended to serve as rubber holder slots (so you can place it just the way you like). The tube also looks like it gets bigger towards the cap (or just thicker). Anyways, I better stop thinking about it or I won't sleep tonight.


----------



## leaftye

RCantor said:


> The new Sparks are floody, the ones they've had out for a while are spot + flood. But Spark has no plans to produce anything higher than 500Lm, so they're not in the race. That's why Zebra can take their time. I own the older spark. It's a great light but in the wilderness it cries out for 1 more high mode.


 
I hadn't considered the beam type and didn't know they didn't plan on anything greater than 500 lumens. Another thing I really like about this ZL is that its configuration makes it much more suitable for use as a flashlight as well.


----------



## psychbeat

I have the Spark ST6 nw and
wish for more power too. 

I looked into modding it with a 2.8a 
shiningbeam driver but with the pressfit
switch I don't think I want to mess around. 

If the Zebra steps down every 5 min from H1 to H2 I'll probably pass. 

I can't really justify it over the Spark I already have ....


----------



## pjandyho

psychbeat said:


> I have the Spark ST6 nw and
> wish for more power too.
> 
> I looked into modding it with a 2.8a
> shiningbeam driver but with the pressfit
> switch I don't think I want to mess around.
> 
> If the Zebra steps down every 5 min from H1 to H2 I'll probably pass.
> 
> I can't really justify it over the Spark I already have ....


 
On the contrary, I think the stepping down every 5 mins is favorable to me. First of all, I don't need anything more than 500 lumen for a headlamp. Secondly, if the step-down is to ensure proper cooling of the headlamp then I am happy with it. The last thing I want is to feel "feverish" whenever I use the headlamp.


----------



## psychbeat

Yah I guess it's more of a luxury feature to not have to reach up n change it yourself when/if it gets warm. 
It's the if part that gets me.. It's often cool/cold outside when I'm using my lights. 
Its annoying when in a critical situation that requires max lumens and an electronic nanny steps it down. 

My2 cents - I'm probably in the minority on this one.


----------



## pjandyho

psychbeat said:


> Yah I guess it's more of a luxury feature to not have to reach up n change it yourself when/if it gets warm.
> It's the if part that gets me.. It's often cool/cold outside when I'm using my lights.
> Its annoying when in a critical situation that requires max lumens and an electronic nanny steps it down.
> 
> My2 cents - I'm probably in the minority on this one.


 
I guess opinions differ in that I am residing in a tropical climate which is always hot and humid all the time.


----------



## spelunkik

Psychbeat, I am like you. I wish there wasn't a step down, as the environment I'd use the light in is much cooler than average. Like pjandyho says though, if it's really to keep it from overheating under normal conditions, it's certainly a valuable feature to possess so that those who would need it have it and won't be cooking their lights.

In a way, I suppose small things like this are always the bane of popular, non-custom lights. There will always be a thing or two you wish was different. In the end, I guess it's a good sign that the step down feature is really the only thing we would want to change.


----------



## B0wz3r

psychbeat said:


> Yah I guess it's more of a luxury feature to not have to reach up n change it yourself when/if it gets warm.
> It's the if part that gets me.. It's often cool/cold outside when I'm using my lights.
> Its annoying when in a critical situation that requires max lumens and an electronic nanny steps it down.
> 
> My2 cents - I'm probably in the minority on this one.



Why not just use it on the highest setting that won't step down? That's not enough light for you?

I remember back in the day, in Marin, I had a Tam Torch for my bike... it was made out of a Hella aux driving lamp. It was the brightest light made in its day, and I'd guess it only put out about 300 lumens. I had no problem hitting 50 mph out on Velocity Peak in the Headlands using that light.


----------



## psychbeat

No it's not enough light.
Even the super could be higher (on the st6.
) which mainly why I'm interested
in the new zebra. 

By overheating I'm not clear on what 
u guys mean? At the amperage it's
running I seriously doubt the emitter
or driver could be damaged. I run my
p60 2.8a on constant for 40min plus w
no I'll effects.


----------



## psychbeat

B0wz3r said:


> Why not just use it on the highest setting that won't step down? That's not enough light for you?
> 
> I remember back in the day, in Marin, I had a Tam Torch for my bike... it was made out of a Hella aux driving lamp. It was the brightest light made in its day, and I'd guess it only put out about 300 lumens. I had no problem hitting 50 mph out on Velocity Peak in the Headlands using that light.


 
I am riding very tight and technical trails with 10th drops etc. 
300 lumens is nowhere bear enough.


----------



## B0wz3r

psychbeat said:


> I am riding very tight and technical trails with 10th drops etc.
> 300 lumens is nowhere bear enough.


 
I used to illegally ride the single track in the MMWD lands at night all the time with my Tam Torch... lots of my friends did. Wow... funny to think that was 25 years ago now... Ah, the good ol' days...


----------



## varuscelli

B0wz3r said:


> I used to illegally ride the single track in the MMWD lands at night all the time with my Tam Torch... lots of my friends did. Wow... funny to think that was 25 years ago now... Ah, the good ol' days...


 
There are agents who have dedicated their lives to finding you. It's good to know our search is finally over. Er...I mean "their" search.


----------



## OfficerSheepDog

varuscelli said:


> There are agents who have dedicated their lives to finding you. It's good to know our search is finally over. Er...I mean "their" search.



*ON THE GROUND GET ON THE F#[email protected]%^&# GROUND BOWZ3R!*

*10-61 I need back up, what? no no, send everything we've got*


----------



## B0wz3r

varuscelli said:


> There are agents who have dedicated their lives to finding you. It's good to know our search is finally over. Er...I mean "their" search.


 


OfficerSheepDog said:


> *ON THE GROUND GET ON THE F#[email protected]%^&# GROUND BOWZ3R!*
> 
> *10-61 I need back up, what? no no, send everything we've got*



You'll never get ME, copper!!!

LOL!!! 

Heh, heh, heh...  ten years of riding MMWD single track at night, I never got busted even once... 

Daytime; now that's a different story... 

But, I have grown up a lot since then, and I don't ride off-road nearly as much as I used to then... Sad but true, now, about 90% of all my cycling is to and from work, or to the grocery store and back, etc. 

What little off-roading I do now is in EBRP land, as I no longer live in Marin, but in the east bay instead.


----------



## Beacon of Light

got an email about pre-order for the H-600 and SC-80 and a heads up on the S-series (Side by side batteries)


----------



## psychbeat

YAH i got it too... no mention of neutrals yet...


----------



## varuscelli

B0wz3r said:


> But, I have grown up a lot since then, and I don't ride off-road nearly as much as I used to then... Sad but true, now, about 90% of all my cycling is to and from work, or to the grocery store and back, etc.


 
I never did much earlier in my bike riding life to get myself in trouble (not TOO much, anyway), but in recent years I do a lot of night riding on local streets and paths. The one legal indiscretion I indulge in now is to take the local golf course cart paths as part of my night rides. I respectfully stay off the grass, but the paths are perfect for part of my trip, although I admit to some degree of minor trespassing in doing that. But to keep this on topic, one of the lights attached to the front of my bike is a ZebraLight SC600, so my arguably criminal activity does involve a Zebralight...


----------



## kwak

varuscelli said:


> I never did much earlier in my bike riding life to get myself in trouble (not TOO much, anyway), but in recent years I do a lot of night riding on local streets and paths. The one legal indiscretion I indulge in now is to take the local golf course cart paths as part of my night rides. I respectfully stay off the grass, but the paths are perfect for part of my trip, although I admit to some degree of minor trespassing in doing that. But to keep this on topic, one of the lights attached to the front of my bike is a ZebraLight SC600, so my arguably criminal activity does involve a Zebralight...




What holder is that you are using please?
Are you happy with it?


----------



## varuscelli

kwak said:


> What holder is that you are using please?
> Are you happy with it?


 
This particular rig is a combination of TwoFish Lockblocks and a couple of ViewPoint Spacebars extended out from the handlebar. And yes, I'm happy with it. I've been using variations on this for something like 4 years now. 

If I were securing something like a single SC600 to the bike, all I'd use would be one TwoFish Lockblock attached straight to the handle bar and the light strapped into it (and not using the spacebar at all). But since I've got one long light (a 2x18650 light) mounted, I needed at least one spacebar (there are two of them in this photo, one for each light). The spacebars are really unnecessary unless (1) you are running out of space on your handlebar or (2) you need more than one mounting point like I needed with the longer light. 

Oddly enough, I could also envision an option of mounting the H600 on one of the spacebars as an alternative way of using it (just thinking ahead to some of the possibilities). 

If you want to read/see more shots of how that setup was rigged, see this thread: Klarus XT20 Dual Head Flashlight as a Bike Light. The tie-in here is that I also attach a ZebraLight as backup or for dual use.


----------



## kwak

That's fantastic, thanks.


----------



## spelunkik

The H600 is now available for preorder.


----------



## Zenbaas

spelunkik said:


> The H600 is now available for preorder.


 OrSum..!


----------



## varuscelli

spelunkik said:


> The H600 is now available for preorder.


 
Cool... :thumbsup:

Out of curiosity, did ZebraLight send you an e-mail about this (as in being on their e-mail list) or did you notice it on their website? Just curious. I'm on their e-mail list but haven't seen an announcement yet other than the "available in a few days" announcement from Sept. 19. I do see it on the site as you say. Maybe the e-mail will lag a bit behind the site posting -- but obviously the grapevine works even faster.


----------



## Kalsu

I actually e-mailed them yesterday and asked when the H600 would be available for pre-order. They responded with "2-3 days". So when I was pleasantly suprised when I went to their website this morning and saw that they were for pre order. So as you can imagine I HAD to pre order one. I just had to. I am sure that you all understand.


----------



## psychbeat

Too cool fer school...waitin on the dub!


----------



## varuscelli

psychbeat said:


> Too cool fer school...waitin on the dub!


 
For how long, I wonder? Hopefully it will be pretty soon, but with those TBD dates it kind of hard to tell. But yeah, I like the idea of the "w" version as well.


----------



## B0wz3r

80 *days* of runtime on L2? :twothumbs And 750 lumens on boost? !!!

Talk about versatility!!! Simply amazing if you ask me. This is why ZL is one of the leading companies in the field right now... 

How the hell am I supposed to be able to afford all this stuff???


----------



## Sno4Life

Two things:

1) I would love to see the 750lm setting set up as a true boost or a temperature based step-down. Now it appears to be set up as just an initial level that steps down after 3 min. An example of why this is not ideal would be me skiing along and coming to a gnarly section. With a boost, I could just switch it to that setting. My understanding of the current mode setup is that I would need to switch the light off and on again. 

2) Headband design. The description appears to me to be the usual ZL single band setup. I like this on my other smaller ZL headlamps, but I question if this light will be too unstable to use for more dynamic or ballistic movements. Do we know if there has been any consideration of a 3 strap band setup? Possibly as an option at time of order for those that need it, or even as an accessory?


----------



## coyotehawk

Any word on when the neutral white will br available for preorder?


----------



## levelflight

Does anyone have a solution to the "403 Access Forbidden" notification that comes up when trying to access the ZL website? I was able to get on it a few weeks ago but not any more............makes it hard to keep up on the latest info from ZL (until it makes it to CPF, of course


----------



## ryguy24000

Just checked out the specs on this light. If the run times are what Zebra claims-then wow! very impressive. the price is right too!


----------



## varuscelli

levelflight said:


> Does anyone have a solution to the "403 Access Forbidden" notification that comes up when trying to access the ZL website?


 
I've never had any access problems and I visit the ZebraLight website on a somewhat regular basis. I use Windows Internet Explorer 9, for what it's worth. As one suggestion, you might try different web browser and see if you can get in that way.


----------



## coyotehawk

levelflight said:


> Does anyone have a solution to the "403 Access Forbidden" notification that comes up when trying to access the ZL website? I was able to get on it a few weeks ago but not any more............makes it hard to keep up on the latest info from ZL (until it makes it to CPF, of course


 
Have never had any issues with ZL.com either. What browser do you use? What AV do you use. Your AV isnt blocking access to that site for some reason is it?


----------



## Changchung

coyotehawk said:


> Have never had any issues with ZL.com either. What browser do you use? What AV do you use. Your AV isnt blocking access to that site for some reason is it?



No problem either...


----------



## levelflight

coyotehawk said:


> Have never had any issues with ZL.com either. What browser do you use? What AV do you use. Your AV isnt blocking access to that site for some reason is it?


 
Using Firefox 3.6 or Safari (Mac) but neither one gets through. I'll have to check with my new ISP as I recently moved to a new town so maybe that's it.
the good news is that I did get a reply from my PM to George at ZL regarding the shipment I ordered but never received last year and it looks like I'll be getting a refund which is good news.....only had to wait 9 months. Now I can buy a new ZL H600, woohoo!


----------



## kwak

No problem with the site here either.

Pre-ordered the H600 :thumbsup:


----------



## Zenbaas

For all the guys who have preordered... Have you paid already or only when it "ships"...?


----------



## kwak

Zenbaas said:


> For all the guys who have preordered... Have you paid already or only when it "ships"...?


 
Like when i pre-ordered the SC600 i paid when i placed the order.


----------



## insanefred

soooo, no neutral white?
It was my b-day just a couple of days ago, and more spouse said she wanted to get me a headlamp. I just needed to pick one out, I asked if I can wait for ZL's announcement. Is there any chance that someone can fill me in, she is getting eager and I don't want to miss this opportunity. If not, I will get the Sparks nw460.


----------



## coyotehawk

insanefred said:


> soooo, no neutral white?
> It was my b-day just a couple of days ago, and more spouse said she wanted to get me a headlamp. I just needed to pick one out, I asked if I can wait for ZL's announcement. Is there any chance that someone can fill me in, she is getting eager and I don't want to miss this opportunity. If not, I will get the Sparks nw460.


 
Wondering the same thing. Sure hope this is still the plan. Wish they would open up the preorder soon before I spend more money on other toys.


----------



## Outdoorsman5

insanefred said:


> soooo, no neutral white?
> It was my b-day just a couple of days ago, and more spouse said she wanted to get me a headlamp. I just needed to pick one out, I asked if I can wait for ZL's announcement. Is there any chance that someone can fill me in, she is getting eager and I don't want to miss this opportunity. If not, I will get the Sparks nw460.



Looks like they are going to make one, but the release date is listed as "TBD" on their website. If you click the red button on their website that says, "Compare All Models" it shows you info like that on their current & future lights - Click Here


----------



## varuscelli

Outdoorsman5 said:


> Looks like they are going to make one, but the release date is listed as "TBD" on their website. If you click the red button on their website that says, "Compare All Models" it shows you info like that on their current & future lights - Click Here


 
Yeah, given that the release date seems to be TBD, and seeing the progress of other releases that had tentatives dates listed (by year quarter), I wouldn't get my hopes up that it will be anytime soon. Since it doesn't say in the very least "Q1 2012" it could be more than six months away. 

Then again, certain aspects of the ZebraLight website are kind of funky and maybe the updates to the "Compare All Models" spreadsheet can't be taken at face value. Perhaps release will be more to the sooner side than the later side, but I don't see anything on the site or in the schedule of recent releases to lead me to believe it will be otherwise. I'd rather be wrong about that, though.


----------



## Cataract

Zebra said they're just waiting to find a source for the right LED bin... it shouldn't take 6 months. I would sure want to get my hands on my H600W tomorrow, but the delay gives me a chance to catch up on other buys, like SC51c, SC31W, SC80W...


----------



## varuscelli

Cataract said:


> Zebra said they're just waiting to find a source for the right LED bin... it shouldn't take 6 months.


 
Yeah, I hope that's right. I'm sure the "waiting to find a source for the right LED bin" has been discussed here, but I've skipped a few posts here and there and have missed a few things. I guess we'll see. (And I had thought they were originally scheduled for Q4 2011...but maybe I'm not remembering that correctly, either.)


----------



## pjandyho

Zebralight's discussion about sourcing for the emitter with the right neutral white BIN is in the SC600w thread, and since both SC600 and H600 uses the same emitter, we can safely assume the discussion applies to both. So, you did not miss the discussion here.


----------



## varuscelli

Ha!--Yeah, with about a dozen ZebraLight discussions pretty much always going on simultaneously, it's kind of hard to keep up at times.


----------



## insanefred

you guys think it's safe to just ask for the sparks?


----------



## pjandyho

insanefred said:


> you guys think it's safe to just ask for the sparks?


 
I doubt it would be anytime soon, perhaps a couple of months more till we see a neutral white H600w. I say go with your heart.


----------



## Sno4Life

pjandyho said:


> I doubt it would be anytime soon, perhaps a couple of months more till we see a neutral white H600w. I say go with your heart.


 
Spoken like a true flashaholic... ;-)


----------



## luminatinho

Does anyone know anything about a clip for the H600.
The clip for the SC600 will probably be too large for using with the H600, what you think?


----------



## B0wz3r

insanefred said:


> you guys think it's safe to just ask for the sparks?


 
I don't have one of the Spark SL6's yet, but I do have one of the ST5-190NW AA headlamps. I like it a lot. It's well made, very small and light, and I like the nice little things that it comes with, like the frosted lens. I regularly use the frosted lens in it, and I find the T body design works better for me when I'm wearing a cap or a hat. ZL's are mostly worthless if you want to wear a cap with a bill, because they sit so far back, they create a huge shadow under the bill of a cap. My Spark ST5-190NW rides a bit higher up because of the center strap, and the protruding emitter housing puts the light source about 1 1/4" farther forward than for my H51w, so the beam is much more usable with a cap on. I also get less tunnel vision on higher settings because the emitter is further away from my line of sight. My Spark is my favorite headlamp right now. I would like to get an ST6-460NW too.


----------



## Sno4Life

I have to say that I'm disappointed in the lack of support for cr123 primaries. The next headlamp I buy will be used for x-country skiing down to -10°F (-23°C). Li-ion rechargeable do not perform adequately at these temps. Zebralight - any chance of a version that accepts primaries?


----------



## DIΩDΣ

Sno4Life said:


> I have to say that I'm disappointed in the lack of support for cr123 primaries. The next headlamp I buy will be used for x-country skiing down to -10°F (-23°C). Li-ion rechargeable do not perform adequately at these temps. Zebralight - any chance of a version that accepts primaries?



I think an AA version with Energizer L91's would accomplish the same thing  well except for the output that is! 

I'm a cc skier too and will be testing my H51w out this winter. Doesnt get quite that cold here, single digits usually.


----------



## Sno4Life

DIΩDΣ;3771988 said:


> I think an AA version with Energizer L91's would accomplish the same thing  well except for the output that is!
> 
> I'm a cc skier too and will be testing my H51w out this winter. Doesnt get quite that cold here, single digits usually.


 
I used the H51 last year on Lithium primaries. Output was good except for downhills with turns, and it was quite a bit lower than needed for those portions of the trail.


----------



## Biovent

Been looking forward to the h600. Why don't they have a YouTube video already?


----------



## davidt1

This light doesn't seem to have a clip. The switch looks smaller and more recessed than the one on their current headlamps, which means no more incidental activation.


----------



## christian gpr

Preordered :thumbsup:


----------



## spelunkik

What is the *maximum* compatible cell length for the H600?? I know it says 67mm on the website, but could I get away with a 68mm cell such as the trustfire tf2400?


----------



## varuscelli

spelunkik said:


> What is the *maximum* compatible cell length for the H600?? I know it says 67mm on the website, but could I get away with a 68mm cell such as the trustfire tf2400?



I don't think there's going to be any way to know that for sure until people start getting the H600 in hand and testing different batteries. Then again, maybe the design of the old H60 might give some indication (if someone could comment on that)...but I don't think we can be certain about the comparison, either. If the H600 actually starts shipping on Oct. 21 as indicated on the ZebraLight site, we should know more pretty soon. You'd have to imagine that a 68mm cell should have a pretty good chance of fitting, though.


----------



## spelunkik

> I don't think there's going to be any way to know that for sure until people start getting the H600 in hand and testing different batteries. Then again, maybe the design of the old H60 might give some indication (if someone could comment on that)...but I don't think we can be certain about the comparison, either. If the H600 actually starts shipping on Oct. 21 as indicated on the ZebraLight site, we should know more pretty soon. You'd have to imagine that a 68mm cell should have a pretty good chance of fitting, though.



Seems like a logical answer to me. Guess I didn't think it through. Thanks for the help!


----------



## Pacificwing

varuscelli said:


> If the H600 actually starts shipping on Oct. 21 as indicated on the ZebraLight site, we should know more pretty soon. You'd have to imagine that a 68mm cell should have a pretty good chance of fitting, though.



Looks like Oct 31 on the official site. Maybe it just changed.

I've got my eye on this one too, but I'm not going to order until the reviews are out. I know they had some defects with the SC600 when they first released it, so I'd like them to get the first batch out of the way before I order. Maybe in the new year.


----------



## SlavaKey

Pacificwing said:


> they had some defects with the SC600 when they first released it


:thumbsdow The main defects were an absence of pocket clip and a ring for lanyard. Not sure, if I have heard about any issues... (I missed something?!)


Pacificwing said:


> Looks like Oct 31 on the official site. Maybe it just changed.


Yes, they changed it this weekend. Previous expected shipping date was 21st of Oct.


----------



## Sno4Life

SlavaKey said:


> :thumbsdow The main defects were an absence of pocket clip and a ring for lanyard. Not sure, if I have heard about any issues... (I missed something?!)


 
I believe there were a couple reports of machining errors in the battery tube. Also, shortly after release they put out a new version with a little more room in the battery compartment to accommodate more types of 18650s.


----------



## B0wz3r

Sno4Life said:


> I believe there were a couple reports of machining errors in the battery tube. Also, shortly after release they put out a new version with a little more room in the battery compartment to accommodate more types of 18650s.



I wouldn't necessarily call it "errors" in the machining, but rather the fact that most manufacturers have been fudging the size of the 18650 format... most of the newer high capacity 18650's, like those from RediLast and Callie's, are actually closer to 70 than 65 mm long, and 19 instead of 18 mm in diameter.


----------



## Sno4Life

B0wz3r said:


> I wouldn't necessarily call it "errors" in the machining, but rather the fact that most manufacturers have been fudging the size of the 18650 format... most of the newer high capacity 18650's, like those from RediLast and Callie's, are actually closer to 70 than 65 mm long, and 19 instead of 18 mm in diameter.


 
No, there were reports of rough spots in the battery tubes that when combined with the tight tolerances in the battery tube, people were needing to sand them down. That is a machining error in my book. The tight battery compartments is more of a design change. Look at the sc600 thread and you will see the reports I'm speaking of. Mind you there were only a few of these issues reported.


----------



## christian gpr

Would be a nice gesture to inform the ones that have preordered the light that it is delayed but this information you have to find for yourself


----------



## levelflight

Yes it would be nice but..........

My guess is that ZL operates personnel lean and is therefore sometimes a bit light when it comes to PR. The result is a cyclically consistent absence from the forums around the time of new product releases, periods of heavy R&D etc.

The upside is they do monitor these threads and are able to implement changes, often without further discussion. They want to build an awesome product and see that it makes sense so they just go ahead and make it happen. I'm encouraged by intelligent companies that are fast on their feet.






IMHO the bottom line is the quality product they deliver, and from a UI perspective they really are head and shoulders above the competition, leaving them stumbling around in the dust as it were. All my other lights seem so plain to operate by comparison although they still have their place. I just pre-ordered the H600 because I'm willing to take a gen1 model on trust, that's how much I love my H60 (and S60s and S600). I had ordered an H60 last year that was lost in transit and I was unable to connect with Lillian to have another shipped (probably because they were out of stock). That said, George has stepped in and made sure I'll receive two H600s to complete my order history. Way cool.





I look forward to an upgraded S600 with a screw on clip, like the S60 but with a hole in the lug to allow for lanyard mounting, as per my picture post on this mod. It looks like a very interesting period at ZL with all our purchases enabling them to pursue some very interesting new products, especially for me the S6330: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...Fc0FfUDFVSHVNS1E&hl=en&authkey=CNqP6KIC#gid=0

Good times ahead! Keep rolling ZL


----------



## Zeruel

levelflight said:


> The upside is they do monitor these threads and are able to implement changes, often without further discussion.



Well, if that's the case, I sure hope they will include a SS clip... without further discussion.


----------



## davidt1

A stainless steel clip would add some bling to the light.


----------



## Zeruel

davidt1 said:


> A stainless steel clip would add some bling to the light.



Not if it's coated black. Or better yet, anodized in the same color as their lights to get a seamless looking unit. :naughty:


----------



## B0wz3r

Zeruel said:


> Not if it's coated black. Or better yet, anodized in the same color as their lights to get a seamless looking unit. :naughty:



_*That*_, would be sweet! 

Apart from ZL providing them, though, aren't there places where you can have anodizing done, or metal tinting? How are the black TiNi coatings applied to aluminum and steel?


----------



## mtnkid85

Zeruel said:


> Well, if that's the case, I sure hope they will include a SS clip... without further discussion.



Agreed, I mentioned it in my order and Ill mention it here as well. Clip and the GITD holder would be highly appreciated items for the H600.


----------



## f22shift

SlavaKey said:


> :thumbsdow The main defects were an absence of pocket clip and a ring for lanyard. Not sure, if I have heard about any issues... (I missed something?!)
> 
> Yes, they changed it this weekend. Previous expected shipping date was 21st of Oct.



Weren't there problems with switch? activated accidently...


----------



## kinkbmxco

I can't wait for this. I lost my 501H a couple months and have been waiting to pull the trigger on a replacement.


----------



## levelflight

Well it will be interesting to see how the H600 compares to the H60 which is (was), in my opinion, very near to perfect for most applications, especially considering overall weight. I have two H600s on order so we'll find out when they get here. I was very surprised this time last year when there were no H60 units available anywhere. I got the last one from GoingGear and ZL (the nefarious one that ultimately failed to arrive).

Accessories are always nice to have, heck even essential for this headlamp and I'm looking to complete the H600 setup with a couple of nice mounting solutions, which will hopefully be supplied by ZL. Better (and cheaper) to provide them from the start rather than shipping twice and dealing with all the friction that tends to otherwise arise. I'd rather wait another month if necessary and get a complete (final) kit.


----------



## Zeruel

B0wz3r said:


> Apart from ZL providing them, though, aren't there places where you can have anodizing done, or metal tinting?



Yes, there are. But you'll still need a clip that fits the H600 in the first place. I guess I can always try to use a third party clip like I did for my H60:











B0wz3r said:


> How are the black TiNi coatings applied to aluminum and steel?



See under "Fabrication".


----------



## levelflight

Zeruel,
The obvious question is, 'where did you source that clip for the H60?'


----------



## Zeruel

What I meant is generally any clip that does the job. The clip here is for S-Mini, which can be purchased separately from Shiningbeam. It's a good fit for H60, yanking doesn't dislodge it as it clamps on both ends. Not sure if it'll fit H600 though, but I sure hope Zebralight will consider adding a clip to the accessories. Or to all their future single cell and compact multi cells lights, for that matter.


----------



## levelflight

The double clip is a good idea, first time I've heard of it. Would you have a shot of the 'open side' of the clip?


----------



## levelflight

Agreed. up to this point ZL has a unique market angle (switch) and devoted customer segment. Customers who want to remain happy by getting fully functional kits with the lights they purchse, especially something as unique as the H series headlamps.


----------



## varuscelli

Well, it's October 31 and I don't see a slip date for the H600 on the ZL site. I wonder if they're going to start shipping soon...(?). 

If anyone gets a shipping notification, maybe you could post here to let folks know.


----------



## BirdofPrey

I'm itching to pull the trigger. This is the last light I'll be "authorized" to order until next spring at the earliest. Have some major expenditures coming up over the next few months so this is it. However, they've not updated the ship date and its still showing "pre-order". I'm really looking to find out how this light will work out as my "go-to" light as my H60w is at this time.


----------



## davidt1

Any day now.


----------



## Zenbaas

davidt1 said:


> Any day now.


+1. I'm dying to see some youtube vids of this in action!


----------



## 556man

It's on back order now. Does that mean they ran out or they haven't shipped some yet?

556man


----------



## varuscelli

556man said:


> It's on back order now. Does that mean they ran out or they haven't shipped some yet?



Hmmm....interesting. Status must have just gotten changed this evening (Nov. 2-3). Since no one seems to have reported getting a shipping notification yet, I wonder if the "back order" status another way of saying "date slipped" again. You've got to think that if anyone is going to be getting one of these early based on pre-order, it would likely be someone on CPF...very likely someone following this thread...so you'd have to guess we'd be among the first to hear of something being shipped.


----------



## airb

They are shipping !


----------



## Zenbaas

airb said:


> They are shipping !


Great news...now Revieeeeew!!!!  I also really hope they manage to get some W emitters for the H600 as well.


----------



## varuscelli

airb said:


> They are shipping !



Care to elaborate a bit, airb? Did you order one and got shipping notice or did someone else report shipping? I'm just curious.


----------



## christian gpr

varuscelli said:


> Care to elaborate a bit, airb? Did you order one and got shipping notice or did someone else report shipping? I'm just curious.



+1 
I have not got a shipping notice.


----------



## psybadeck

So, this will be my first post here... 

I ordered on the 25th of September and got a shipping notice on 2nd of November.
But the order tracking is not working, so I really don't know, when it will arrive.
Usually China shipping takes 10 to 20 days (Germany).

Whenever I got the lamp, I will try to arrange a small review.


----------



## quirionmartin

I ordered on the 27 sept .... No shipping notice!


----------



## varuscelli

I wonder if the U.S. distributor even got any to ship out...and beyond that, if those reporting shipping are just toying with our emotions...


----------



## carrot

I am eagerly awaiting some user reviews of this. 170 lumens for 7 hours sounds fantastic to me.


----------



## airb

varuscelli said:


> I wonder if the U.S. distributor even got any to ship out...and beyond that, if those reporting shipping are just toying with our emotions...



I would never do so . And to clarify: I am not the one who got a shipping notice, its a friend of mine ( but located in Germany too ). so far I ve no doubt about his integrity. He is crazy for this HL for weeks. I bet the first bunch of HLs is already on its way to texas, and you will get your notice after the singled pieces getting dispersed from there ;-)


----------



## varuscelli

Hey, thanks airb. :thumbsup:

From what I was reading into things, my thoughts were that non-U.S. buyers were perhaps starting to get theirs first with distribution spreading slowly from the manufacturer (thus perhaps Asian and European destinations being more naturally first in line). That would seem to make sense from a geographical standpoint (I think so, anyway). 

Then again, perhaps you're still just toying with us... :nana:


----------



## christian gpr

Hopefully it will be shipped out soon, this is the reply I got today when asking what was happening:

_Your order ######## for one H600 will be shipped later this week. 
Sorry for the waiting. _


----------



## vvk

I got the following reply today "It will be shipped next week" So a little bit more patience and I can finally replace my beloved H60 ...


----------



## varuscelli

vvk said:


> I got the following reply today "It will be shipped next week" ...



To what country (if you don't mind me asking)?


----------



## Zenbaas

What was the original release date for this light again..?


----------



## spelunkik

September 201*2*.  I've gotten used to waiting for this light now, but Zebralight sure could have handled this one a lot better. Hopefully it will be a learning experience for them.


----------



## Zenbaas

spelunkik said:


> September 201*2*.  I've gotten used to waiting for this light now, but Zebralight sure could have handled this one a lot better. Hopefully it will be a learning experience for them.



Learning experience like with the Q50...?


----------



## christian gpr

varuscelli said:


> To what country (if you don't mind me asking)?


Sweden


----------



## varuscelli

christian gpr said:


> Sweden



Thanks, Christian... 

Your location wasn't showing at the time I asked, so I was just curious. Looks like members in Europe have a better direct line to ZebraLight in terms of ordering, based on the few who are reporting news of shipping. I haven't seen any forum members from the U.S. reporting that they've received any indication that orders here are being fulfilled yet.


----------



## B0wz3r

I'm putting this one at the top of my want list now... I'm normally an AA guy, but I also do like lights that use 18650's. In fact, I was just going over the loadout in my hiking pack last night, looking at what I've chosen to live in it semi-permanently... Imagine my surprise to find that two of the three lights I've stocked are 18650 lights, particularly when I was trying to go more with AA's for ease of getting replacement cells. For camping, hiking, and other outdoor purposes I think using 18650 based lights will be fine. But if I decide to use that pack for a BOB, then I'll definitely change to AA based lights. So since I'm using more 18650 based lights for now, I might just wait until the neutral version of this comes out to replace my lost H51w.


----------



## varuscelli

B0wz3r, you're thinking and mine seem pretty much the same in regard to AA and 18650. When I first got into decent higher-end LED lights, I stuck with only AA. But then I stared collecting a few CR123A lights before getting into the 18650 lights. Right now, I'm slowly getting rid of most of my CR123A lights because I just don't want to have to mess with tho batteries. I feel that between AA and 18650, I can cover all my realistic needs and keep things a bit simpler. 

Oh, I'm holding onto a couple of CR123A lights. I don't want to part with a couple of Milky Mod SureFires (for now) and I've got an RA Twisty that I want to keep (for now), but I'm slowly parting with the rest. What I keep, I'll likely use very sparingly. 

I remember my decision to get my first 18650 light was a rather painful one. OK, I want the light...but I need a couple of batteries...and I want a good charger. But once invested in a few batteries and a charger, you can go a LONG ways with 18650 lights. I'm really looking forward to my first 18650 headlamp.


----------



## BirdofPrey

As an admitted flashaholic, I can't help but itch for the next generation of 18650 headlamp from ZL. I love my H60w and would never trade it for my wife's H51w. I'll either give the H60w to my wife so she can "step up" or sell it. She seems rather attached to the AA version that she has so I'll likely end up selling it.

I thought about giving it to my Dad but he's not overly battery savvy so...


----------



## Photonrunner

varuscelli said:


> B0wz3r, you're thinking and mine seem pretty much the same in regard to AA and 18650. When I first got into decent higher-end LED lights, I stuck with only AA. But then I stared collecting a few CR123A lights before getting into the 18650 lights. Right now, I'm slowly getting rid of most of my CR123A lights because I just don't want to have to mess with tho batteries. I feel that between AA and 18650, I can cover all my realistic needs and keep things a bit simpler.
> 
> Oh, I'm holding onto a couple of CR123A lights. I don't want to part with a couple of Milky Mod SureFires (for now) and I've got an RA Twisty that I want to keep (for now), but I'm slowly parting with the rest. What I keep, I'll likely use very sparingly.
> 
> I remember my decision to get my first 18650 light was a rather painful one. OK, I want the light...but I need a couple of batteries...and I want a good charger. But once invested in a few batteries and a charger, you can go a LONG ways with 18650 lights. I'm really looking forward to my first 18650 headlamp.



AA's are my cell of choice for headlamps. Wouldn't want an 18650 to go poof while strapped to my head. I'll keep those in my hand held lights. Got two hands but only one head!


----------



## spinkid

Photonrunner said:


> Got two hands but only one head!



That line is awesome!!! Almost spit out my coffee......


----------



## BirdofPrey

If truly concerned, you could always drill a pressure release hole in the end cap could you not? Make a silicone plug from sugru for when its raining?


----------



## varuscelli

Photonrunner said:


> AA's are my cell of choice for headlamps. Wouldn't want an 18650 to go poof while strapped to my head. I'll keep those in my hand held lights. Got two hands but only one head!



Photonrunner: given the context of your comment, there really wasn't any need to quote my previous post. What I wrote was directed mostly to B0wz3r, but what you wrote seems to have been directed to the thread in general (and not specifically toward my comments). Hope that makes sense -- although, of course, I wouldn't want my head blown off any more than the next guy...


----------



## Bolster

Photonrunner said:


> AA's are my cell of choice for headlamps. Wouldn't want an 18650 to go poof while strapped to my head. I'll keep those in my hand held lights. Got two hands but only one head!



I'm really torn up about this issue. I tend to agree...I prefer the safety of the AAs, but also fear I'm being a nervous nelly for no reason about the 18650s. On the one hand, I don't like to allow irrational fear to govern my life in any way, and on the other, I have a shamefully massive investment in education in my cranium (three graduate degrees!). Kinda like the guy who parks his new Corvette in the farthest parking lot? That's me with my head. No boxing, no motorcycling, and no 18650 on my head. 

At the same time I feel like a duck for avoiding something with an incredibly low probability, particularly when you're talking a SINGLE 18650. Chances of getting hit by a car are probably an order of magnitude more likely than a VWF for a one-cell protected 18650. 

So, I'll get one when I'm 80 years old and can afford the risks.


----------



## levelflight

The 18650 is the top shelf solution for my requirements. Given the above comments is there anyone using a portable solar charging station for these batteries? I'd like to buy one for extended off grid activity.


----------



## BirdofPrey

levelflight said:


> The 18650 is the top shelf solution for my requirements. Given the above comments is there anyone using a portable solar charging station for these batteries? I'd like to buy one for extended off grid activity.



Sounds like a neat idea but wow, it would take a long time to charge even one battery based off the small portable solar chargers that I've thus far seen available.


----------



## levelflight

I agree. There is, however, a new technology available (I don't have the details at hand) that work even in low light situations which may prove more suitable for these cells.


----------



## BirdofPrey

levelflight said:


> I agree. There is, however, a new technology available (I don't have the details at hand) that work even in low light situations which may prove more suitable for these cells.



Any links possible?


----------



## levelflight

still looking for that info.....will post when found.


----------



## B0wz3r

If you spend a few more bucks on a good cell, like a protected AW, Redi-Last, or Kallie's Kustom, I don't think it's a problem. I'm not certain about the RL's or the KK's, but the AW's have a venting system built into them so if they do start to blow their tops, they don't actually literally blow... My experience with the AW protected cells has been nothing but excellent as well. I haven't felt a need to buy any other brands so far, because the AW's have done everything I've asked of them, and more.

Varuscelli... I agree... seems we're on the same page on a lot of this stuff... they say great minds think alike after all! 

I've got a couple of odd 123 lights sitting around, but if I had a Ra or a Milky, heck yeah! I'd keep 'em!  The odd 123 based lights I have are one of the Romisen flood to throw models with a warm emitter, which I have to admit I bought just for fun, and because I've got a small stash of 123's that I've accumulated from some of the Jetbeams I've bought from Bugout Gear... the ones I got do either 2x123 or 1x18650, and Flavio always throws in a couple of 123's when I've bought one, but I never use them... So they were my excuse for getting the Romisen.  I can't honestly say I need an 18650 headlamp, but just to be consistent with what I've already stocked in my hiking pack, it'd be a good idea. 

I do need to sit down and do some serious thinking about this now though. I'm starting to feel I don't want to try and use one pack for both hiking and BOB prep... Gee, guess that means I'll have to buy another pack and more gear for a BOB...


----------



## mikedeason

Im in Canada and I got an email saying it will ship next week also


----------



## varuscelli

mikedeason said:


> Im in Canada and I got an email saying it will ship next week also



Good news! Is yours shipping from the U.S. or elsewhere?


----------



## mikedeason

i ordered it directly from zebralight ...where are they located?

TX USA i guess it will ship from


----------



## varuscelli

Yeah, if it's zebralight.com they're in Irving, Texas USA. I've never quite figured out how they fit into the bigger picture of ZebraLight, though. Maybe they represent North American distribution or western hemisphere distribution or something along those lines. They're only a couple of hundred miles from me -- maybe I should just drive by and see what's up...


----------



## varuscelli

B0wz3r said:


> Varuscelli... I agree... seems we're on the same page on a lot of this stuff... they say great minds think alike after all!



An insanity shared is an insanity halved. Or is it "an insanity shared is an insanity doubled"? 

So we're either half as crazy or twice as crazy as the rest of the folks around here. :twothumbs


----------



## Bolster

I think Texas is the ownership, management, and design. Then they contract with a factory in China. What's a mystery to me is who handles the southern hemisphere.


----------



## Zenbaas

Bolster said:


> I think Texas is the ownership, management, and design. Then they contract with a factory in China. What's a mystery to me is who handles the southern hemisphere.


Will find out when the NW version comes out


----------



## varuscelli

Bolster said:


> I think Texas is the ownership, management, and design. Then they contract with a factory in China.



Ahh, I always wondered about that. I've never actually seen it discussed, although I haven't read every post about ZebraLight, either. But I've also seen people talk about orders in Europe that ship from China or something to that effect...so I wonder if there are multiple points of distribution or if people are just making an assumption about where shipping originates. Of course, there are third-party vendors but I mean for those that are ordered straight from ZebraLight. I know the couple of orders I've placed with ZebraLight have come from Irving, Texas -- but I always assumed (erroneously, it seems) that was just a U.S. distribution point or something along those lines.


----------



## Bolster

I believe some, possibly many, orders get "drop shipped" from China. As my wife explains this: "You order from the retailer but the wholesaler ships it to you." In this case the wholesaler being the factory or factory-local shipping outfit. My best guess is that we receive items either from China and from Texas, depending on where we live. There may be another main distribution point of which I'm unaware. I'll bet most of the third party vendors get their orders drop-ship, but that's a wild guess.


----------



## varuscelli

B0wz3r said:


> I've got a couple of odd 123 lights sitting around, but if I had a Ra or a Milky, heck yeah! I'd keep 'em!



Fortunately, one of the Milky Mods also runs on two 18650 batteries with the right carrier (or six CR123A), so it's a cross-over model. 

Sorry, I realize this has nothing to do with the H600...but since we're just sitting around waiting...


----------



## B0wz3r

varuscelli said:


> Fortunately, one of the Milky Mods also runs on two 18650 batteries with the right carrier (or six CR123A), so it's a cross-over model.
> 
> Sorry, I realize this has nothing to do with the H600...but since we're just sitting around waiting...



Neat looking light though...

For now, let's just go with "halved" 

Come on Zebralight... Neutral! Neutral! Neutral!


----------



## Shorty66

Its a shame that the h600 doesnt include the H51s' pocket clip.
The silicone Pocketclip is just awful.

Things i'd like to change on the h600:

Pocket clip should be like H51s'.
The O-ring between reflector and glass-lens should be GITD.
There should be a Battery Indicator like on the Petzl Tikka XP.
Zebralight needs a better Headband attachment for all their Headlamps. Silicone is wobbly and leads to dents on my forehead. Again see the Petzl or BD lights.


----------



## spelunkik

The SC600w is now available for preorder. I realize this is no indication as to how long it's going to actually take before we SEE one (since it's taken the H600 so long), but I suppose we can at least assume they are a lot closer to having a neutral version of the H600 too? If this is the case, I may just hold off on my purchase of the cool white H600. I much prefer neutral, and if it means waiting a month longer I think I can manage.


----------



## varuscelli

Shorty66 said:


> Zebralight needs a better Headband attachment for all their Headlamps. Silicone is wobbly and leads to dents on my forehead.



I've lost track of the post where another member re-routed the ZebraLight headband, but here are a couple of pics of my own H501w headband re-routed. Re-routing this way does a lot to address both issues you mention (although I've never experienced any noticeable wobbling with the H501w). I'm just assuming at this point something similar will work with the larger H600, but since we haven't yet see if the silicon holder is exactly the same, it's hard to say until people actually start getting the H600 in hand. At least, I haven't seen any photos of what's shipping and the ZL site doesn't show photos with the H600 headband or holder. But here are before-and-after pics of the easy re-routing of the H501w headband.


----------



## Shorty66

These silicone holders are not on par with what zebralight delivers in their lamps.
Its a shame that such good headlamps like the Zebras are downplayed by bad accessorys.

Its no wonder that you didnt notice any wobble with the 501. Try a spotlight like the h51 and you will be annoyed by the wobbling. It gets even worse with heavier lights - the wobbling is also there with the h60 i own - even though its flood. It will be even worse with the h600.
And rethreading does help with the dents but thats not really what i call a solution. The engineers at ZL should really spend some more time on engineering a complete headlamp and not just the lamps.


----------



## Bolster

Not that the GITD silicone holder gives me any problems, but I'm using the black rubber (?) holder on one light and it seems to be even grippier on the light. Very small sample size in this study, n=1. 

Yeah, I get the red head dents too, but I only see them, I don't feel them.


----------



## varuscelli

Bolster: I've noticed that, too, with the black holder gripping the lamp (the H501w, anyway) tighter than the GITD holder. With the H501w, it doesn't seem to make that much difference -- at least, not with my personal use -- but I do notice that it's much easier to roll the lamp in the GITD holder (arguably a bit too easy). 

Shorty66: You must be the person who posted the review of the H600 on the ZebraLight website. Interesting review, and I envy the fact that must have received yours earlier than most buyers. :thumbsup:


----------



## Shorty66

My review made no points i couldnt make without having the light. 

And i certainly dont want to bash ZL here. I only want them to now hwat they could do better - espacially since they didnt really work on their accessorys since the q50


----------



## varuscelli

Well...there's always the possibility that ZL has done something different with the silicon holder. 

In the past, they seem to have come up with new options for several aspects of the lights and accessories they deliver. I think until we actually see the headband/holder that arrives with the H600, it might be a bit premature to criticize. 

I certainly don't have any particular insight into whether ZL has changed anything about the headband/holder or not, but it seems a bit unusual to me that they don't show a photo of the included accessories like they do with with their other headlamps. The lack of a photo of the headband and holder might just mean that nothing at all has changed...but then again, we won't know for sure until we see what arrives with the headlamp or until ZL posts different photos to the website. 

Just putting that out there for consideration.


----------



## kwak

Shorty66 said:


> My review made no points i couldnt make without having the light.
> 
> And i certainly dont want to bash ZL here. I only want them to now hwat they could do better - espacially since they didnt really work on their accessorys since the q50



I don't understand.

So you wrote review without actually owning the light?


----------



## Sno4Life

I don't understand why there aren't any pictures of the headband on either the Zebralight website or their Facebook page. How can they sell something like that sight unseen?


----------



## psychbeat

yah silicone holders FLOP around when biking or jogging

my H51 does and my Spark ST460 does ALOT even with the
top strap. the H31 isnt quite as bad as its so small.

I think the larger the light is the more it wants to twist forwards/down
the base needs to be larger and made out of something
much stiffer- especially for the H600(w)

curious to see what (if anything) new they come up with


oh yeah- a ziptie or two can help stiffen things a bit


----------



## Sparky's Magic

Bolster said:


> I think Texas is the ownership, management, and design. Then they contract with a factory in China. What's a mystery to me is who handles the southern hemisphere.



The last Z/L. I purchased was ordered from Z/L's site and was delivered by free China post. Post took 11 days and the SC60W. hasn't missed a beat in six mths. or so: It's in the rotation, gets plenty of use and is a firm favorite. The size for an 18650 'light kills me.

Sparky _(Australia)._


----------



## varuscelli

Shorty66 said:


> My review made no points i couldnt make without having the light.



I hope this isn't taken the wrong way, because I don't mean it as a flame...but I do have a bit of criticism. My feeling on the point about posting a review is that it's fine to post wish-list stuff or commentary here on the forum or to send feedback directly to ZebraLight, but it can also be misleading to post those same comments as a review on the manufacturer's site. 

When I first saw that on the H600 page of the ZL site, I thought, "Hey, great -- someone's got one and they're posting a review." But then when I saw that your comments here were almost exactly the same, I suspected it wasn't actually a review but merely feedback based at least in part on speculation. If I were not a member of the CPF forum and didn't happen to be subscribed to this thread, I would have assumed that what was posted on the ZL site was based on the reviewer having actually received an H600 and related accessories. 

Realistically, I'm sure you didn't intend what you posted to be misleading...but at the same time, it's at least somewhat poor form to post under a review heading comments about something you don't have in hand for personal evaluation (that is, unless you actually had received one and I was misinterpreting the situation). But if you don't own the headlamp or otherwise have hands-on access to one, I think posting comments as a review does a disservice to the product and to potential buyers who might very likely take the review information at face value. 

Again, no flame intended -- just a point of what I'd have to call a misstep in proper vs improper review etiquette.


----------



## davidt1

About battery life indicator: my H51w already has one. It steps down in brightness from high to medium and to low. I don't need anything more.

About everything else: I suppose the accessories could be better for those who use them. I don't. In fact, I believe my setup, for my uses, is better than anything Zebralight could possibly come up with. 

All I ask for is they don't take away the swiveling clip. If they do take the clip away, it is probably due to the mistaken belief that a clip is not useful in a headlamp. That could not be further from the truth. The ability to transform from headlamp to desk lamp to overhead light, and to flashlight is what set a Zebralight headlamp apart. And the swiveling clip is what makes some of that versatility possible.


----------



## varuscelli

davidt1 said:


> All I ask for is they don't take away the swiveling clip. If they do take the clip away, it is probably due to the mistaken believe that a clip is not useful in a headlamp. That could not be further from the truth. The ability to transform from headlamp to desk lamp to overhead light, and to flashlight is what set a Zebralight headlamp apart. And the swiveling clip is what makes some of that versatility possible.



Yeah, it'll be interesting to see what the ZL plan for a clip is. On the surface, it seems as though no clip is included. 

The clip for the old H60 was apparently the same as the H501 with that rubber piece that completely surrounds the lamp body. The better clip would seem to be just like the one you favor, David. What I'm hoping is that perhaps they include a clip like that with the H600 even though it's not listed. It just seems really odd to think that they'd go with no clip at all. 

It's possible (maybe only a slim chance, though) that ZL had not finished making all decisions on what would be included with the H600 before posting photos and the accessory list on the website. But if the website list is accurate, all that will ship with the H600 will be the headband, silicon holder and extra o-rings. 

Another possibility (again, perhaps slim) is that maybe it will be something like with the first release of the SC600 where I think they did not come with a clip initially and the clip later became available (both as a standard shipped item and also sent to those who did not initially receive them, if I understand the situation with the SC600 correctly).


----------



## tony613

varuscelli said:


> Another possibility (again, perhaps slim) is that maybe it will be something like with the first release of the SC600 where I think they did not come with a clip initially and the clip later became available (both as a standard shipped item and also sent to those who did not initially receive them, if I understand the situation with the SC600 correctly).



I followed the SC600 thread closely and from what I read you are correct; the clip was initially not included with the light, then it was included and shipped to those that purchased beforehand. The last things added were the step regulation, the reduced parasitic drain, and the lanyard attachment with ring. As a side note the step regulation has been received with mixed emotions. I personally like it for several reasons, including what davidt1 points out - a battery life indicator, stepping down from high to medium to low. 

Fortunately (for me) the H600 will be able to take advantage of the SC600's early revisions with regard to the interface and step regulation. As far as getting one of the first available, I'll be on the slower side to act and will be waiting to see what if any evolution this light goes through before it hits its stride. Plus that will allow more availability of the neutral white, along with user's opinions and side by side comparisons, so that I can agonize over what tint to get at THAT time.  Oh man am I persnickety.


----------



## gerG

I ordered a SC600 early, and ZL did indeed ship me a clip about a month after I got the light. I really appreciate that. I suspect that same clip will fit the H600.

I preordered the H600 on the 26th. No notice yet.

I hope that the color is more uniform than the SC600. Mine is quite yellow/green in the columnated part of the beam, while the spill is very blue. On average the color would be very good, but it is very stratified. The specs never cover that aspect.

I agree on the headband mount: needs improvement. I have 2 other ZL headlamps. Fortunately it works great wearing the light around my neck. I use my current lights off and on all day in my lab, and I am used to wearing the light around my neck all day. High hopes for the H600. It should tide me over until they come out with a true flood!

gerG


----------



## dafeichu

spelunkik said:


> The SC600w is now available for preorder. I realize this is no indication as to how long it's going to actually take before we SEE one (since it's taken the H600 so long), but I suppose we can at least assume they are a lot closer to having a neutral version of the H600 too? If this is the case, I may just hold off on my purchase of the cool white H600. I much prefer neutral, and if it means waiting a month longer I think I can manage.



Where do you get on the pre-order list for the neutral? I couldn't see it on their site. I sent them an email earlier today asking if/when a neutral would be available. Their replay was "We'll start to taking pre-orders soon."


----------



## varuscelli

dafeichu said:


> Where do you get on the pre-order list for the neutral? I couldn't see it on their site. I sent them an email earlier today asking if/when a neutral would be available. Their replay was "We'll start to taking pre-orders soon."



The thing that people are talking about currently pre-ordering is the neutral version of the flashlight (SC600w) and not the neutral version of the headlamp (H600w). I'm assuming ZebraLight means the H600w will be available for pre-order soon while the SC600w is available for pre-order now.


----------



## dafeichu

varuscelli said:


> The thing that people are talking about currently pre-ordering is the neutral version of the flashlight (SC600w) and not the neutral version of the headlamp (H600w). I'm assuming ZebraLight means the H600w will be available for pre-order soon while the SC600w is available for pre-order now.



Woops. Wasn't paying attention. Didn't see the "SC". Thanks for pointing that out.


----------



## varuscelli

dafeichu said:


> Woops. Wasn't paying attention. Didn't see the "SC". Thanks for pointing that out.



You're welcome. It's easy to get those mixed up with all the simultaneous threads going on and the very similar designations of the lights with the "600" as part of each. I think a lot of us have to do a double-take once in a while to figure out which ones are being discussed in any given post.


----------



## varuscelli

Anyone else in North America get shipping notice today? From Irving, Texas?


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## mtnkid85

varuscelli said:


> Anyone else in North America get shipping notice today? From Irving, Texas?



Preordered on 10/22, just got shipping notice tonight. Says something about Irving Texas, not defintive about that being shipping location though.


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## varuscelli

I got two notices from ZebraLight. The first merely seemed to confirm the order that I had placed back in September. The second confirmed shipping, but I couldn't tell at first if it was shipping from China or the U.S. since there were references to both U.S. tracking and China tracking. I later got a UPS notice that confirmed UPS shipping and an estimated delivery date of November 18, so I take from that notice that it's definitely shipping from Irving, Texas.


----------



## levelflight

Right, mine came today as well. My notice indicates multiple potential shipping options (as may be applicable) but the tracking number is for USPS, so it appears to be a package rerouting from China through Irvine, Texas.
Bottom line? Woohoo and watch out darkness!


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## varuscelli

Yeah, one of my notices (the second one from ZebraLight) came with what seemed to be a USPS tracking number, too...but the actual shipping notice I got later was from UPS and not USPS. No big deal (since it's on its way one way or the other), but it was initially a bit confusing.


----------



## mikedeason

got shipping confirmation and tracking # today


----------



## varuscelli

Ha! Now I see mine is shipping through San Marcos, CA. Must be the first arrival point in the U.S., I suppose. Yeah, I kind of thought that 3 days (even via UPS ground) was kind of a long time to take from Irving, TX to League City, TX.

Wow, the package weight shows as 6 lbs. I must have ordered a few more of these than I realized.


----------



## TedTheLed

Hey guys, are you sure it says H600w and not just H600 on your receipts??

Mine said H600 and I contacted Zebra and they said probably an H600 WAS shipped in error and to return it,

and then ask for my refund..and to order a H600w "when it became available on the website" 

which at the moment it is NOT.

Zebra's gettin a bit to frisky for me at the moment...


----------



## pjandyho

When was there ever a H600w run? The only one I know of is an SC600w run on pre-order.


----------



## Zenbaas

pjandyho said:


> When was there ever a H600w run? The only one I know of is an SC600w run on pre-order.


No...there was never a H600W run yet, only SC600W  I think the poster may have become confused because of the thread title.


----------



## pjandyho

Zenbaas said:


> No...there was never a H600W run yet, only SC600W  I think the poster may have become confused because of the thread title.


That explains it. I have been following this thread everyday and I was confused about people receiving shipping notices for H600w when there's no pre-order link in Zebralight's website.


----------



## TedTheLed

...not as confused as you may think...

(but a logical assumption)


----------



## varuscelli

Zenbaas said:


> No...there was never a H600W run yet, only SC600W  I think the poster may have become confused because of the thread title.



I think if the original thread title had been written *H600/H600w* rather than *H600(w)* there would have been less confusion along the way (especially now that the H600 is shipping). Not criticizing the original post, but I can see where the title adds to a bit of the overall confusion.


----------



## PsychRN

Called Tod at illuminationgear yesterday & asked him to get me 2 of the H600W XM-L's....He said they may be in, by the end of this month.

Really like my pair of H51W's....and both sons love theirs.....but I gotta confess: there are times when I need a 'bigger gas tank' than an AA battery provides.

And if I passed on these bigger XM-L's, I'd forever be thinking, _"Gee! I coulda had a V-8!" _

Now...the waiting begins.....:ironic:

~PsychRN :devil:





aka Gnarly,everywhere else.


----------



## Zenbaas

varuscelli said:


> *I think if the original thread title had been written H600/H600w rather than H600(w) there would have been less confusion along the way* (especially now that the H600 is shipping). Not criticizing the original post, but I can see where the title adds to a bit of the overall confusion.


Agreed. People who don't read all the comment would asume that the white version was out as people are all talking about shipping notices etc.


----------



## 3Cylinders

Can we order additional silicone holders, clips and other accessories? I'm not seeing them listed on the ZL site.


----------



## varuscelli

Received....woohoo....etc... :thumbsup:

For reference/comparison with the SC600 and H501.


----------



## dafeichu

varuscelli, how well does the silicone holder secure the light. Does it bounce around a lot? Would you do some beam shots?


----------



## varuscelli

dafeichu said:


> varuscelli, how well does the silicone holder secure the light. Does it bounce around a lot? Would you do some beam shots?



I've only been able to test it briefly, but forum member psybadek has posted some beam shots already:

Review: Zebralight H600

More on the silicon holder later.


----------



## kinkbmxco

Thanks for the comparison shots varuscelli!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/member.php?30176-varuscelli


----------



## Bolster

varuscelli said:


> forum member psybadek has posted some beam shots already



But we wants white wall shots, doesn't we?


----------



## varuscelli

OK, on this "floppiness" issue with the heavier ZebraLight headlamps...

Unfortunately, yes -- the H600 is certainly a bit to the floppy side when worn with the standard ZL headband and silicon holder....at least, when left with the headband running through the silicon holder loops only one time. Since I don't have before-and after photos of what I did with the H600 headband, I probably need to show a couple of photos for the H501 headband, then what I think is a good solution to solve most of the floppiness of the H600. It's not that I want to exaggerate the flopping effect, but I suppose if you're jogging or doing a lot of rapid head movements you're going to notice it, and I realize from comments I've read this the flopping is a significant issue for some. 

Here's a standard headband setup from ZebraLight (H501, in this case), run through the silicon holder slots only one time, as received from the manufacturer. 






Here's one for the H501 with the headband doubled back through the holder slots one more time to help add to the comfort level of the silicon holder against the forehead. A side benefit (or maybe a primary benefit) of this extra loop is that it also holds the headlamp more firmly. I'm having trouble remembering who first suggested this routing, but it wasn't me. I just followed the suggestion of another forum member with the rerouting. 






But here's what I did with the H600 headband routing by running it through the holder slots one more time. This adds a significant amount of support to the lamp and holder and greatly reduces any flopping of the headlamp. The only problem is that it doesn't leave a lot of room for adjustment with the headband. It still fits me comfortably, but just slightly to the snug side. However, it reduces flopping so much that it's worth considering...depending, I suppose, on the wearer's head size. Again, for me this is not uncomfortably tight -- just snug...and it makes a huge difference with the stability of the lamp.


----------



## varuscelli

Bolster said:


> But we wants white wall shots, doesn't we?



I wish I had some white walls. Maybe I can borrow my neighbor's house. 

Or maybe I could set up to do some ceiling shots...but I bet other members are going to be posting all kinds of wall shots in the next day or two. 

I can tell you that on the high setting this thing _really _lights things up for a headlamp (indoors or out). My only other ZebraLight headlamp is an H501, so you an imagine the difference I'm seeing.


----------



## HIDblue

Does anyone have any pics of the H600 in the palm of your hand? I'm trying to see how big it actually is for EDC...


----------



## varuscelli

OK, here are a few more relative size pics. 

Disclaimer: hand size may vary from user to user...


----------



## psychbeat

^^
Thanks for the pics!
Really helps get an idea of the size- especially the last one.


----------



## HIDblue

Thanks for the great pics varuscelli! Just what I was looking for. I really like the SC600, but would prefer the slimmer form factor of the H600. Thanks again for the pics.


----------



## varuscelli

You're welcome, guys. 

As another little bit of comparative info, if you want weights with batteries, here's what I get on my scale:

H600 with AW 2200 battery, 80 grams
SC600 with AW 2200 battery, 128 grams

The SC600 *without *battery weighs almost exactly what the H600 weighs *with *battery.


----------



## HIDblue

varuscelli said:


> You're welcome, guys.
> 
> As another little bit of comparative info, if you want weights with batteries, here's what I get on my scale:
> 
> H600 with AW 2200 battery, 80 grams
> SC600 with AW 2200 battery, 128 grams
> 
> The SC600 *without *battery weighs almost exactly what the H600 weighs *with *battery.



Wow...I didn't think it would be that much of a difference. Another dent in the wallet...


----------



## varuscelli

varuscelli said:


> H600 with AW 2200 battery, 80 grams
> SC600 with AW 2200 battery, 128 grams
> 
> The SC600 *without *battery weighs almost exactly what the H600 weighs *with *battery.



With the light weight of the H600, when it's run in Turbo mode (750 lumens) there's a lot of heat that builds up after a couple of minutes. 

The body on this lamp (especially the head) gets hotter than anything else I own. If there were room for it anywhere, I'm sure a "Hot Surface" warning would be justified. 

If the lamp is worn as a standard headlamp in it's holder, you probably won't sense the heat at all (I don't). 

But when tail standing the H600 (and running it in Turbo mode), if you pick it up in the 2 to 3 minute range, I think most folks would be hard pressed to hold it by the head or with parts of the fingers touching the head. The farther away from the head you hold the lamp, the less hot it is, so holding it with a bit of space between your fingers and the head becomes the obvious sensible thing to do if using the lamp on Turbo and using your hands to pick it up or hold it (your fingers will tell you so). 

Once the H600 cuts back to a lower level (after 3 minutes), the temperature slowly drops to a less uncomfortable level...until it eventually drops to only "very warm" and then only warm. 

I have to venture a guess that perhaps the high temperatures might be a reason no pocket clip was included. Of course, lots of people would want to use a pocket clip just to secure the lamp in a pocket, and that would certainly make a clip desirable. But if you secured the H600 in a pocket and turned it on Turbo, you might be putting the proverbial "hot foot" effect on yourself -- on your chest or thigh or whatever pocket you clipped it to when it was turned on. But I'm just speculating as to why a clip might not have been included. Of course, the clips might be ready later just as they were with the SC600. Who knows at this point?


----------



## varuscelli

varuscelli said:


> With the light weight of the H600, when it's run in Turbo mode (750 lumens) there's a lot of heat that builds up after a couple of minutes.
> 
> The body on this lamp (especially the head) gets hotter than anything else I own. If there were room for it anywhere, I'm sure a "Hot Surface" warning would be justified.



Note that if running the H600 at the 420 lumen setting (High/H1) rather than starting with the 720 lumen High/H1 setting, heat buildup is negligible -- the lamp barely gets warm. 

It's in Turbo mode where the lamp get hot (not just warm but hot), and the cool-down period after Turbo mode from having a hot lamp to only a warm lamp takes a few minutes after dropping from H1 720 lumens (Turbo) to H1 420 lumens. That is, if you start in Turbo and wait for the lamp to drop to 420 lumens, it tends to hold the heat for a while. If you start at the 420 lumen level, you don't really notice the heat at all.


----------



## varuscelli

If you take a look at the silicon holder for the H600, it sure looks like ZebraLight had some kind of plan for a top strap for the headband. Would there be another explanation for the slot at the top of the holder? I've got only the H501w holder for comparison (and it doesn't have one), so I don't know if any of the others have this slot.


----------



## Outdoorsman5

I have several and none of em have that slot at the top. Looks like they were thinking top strap with that design, but then scrapped it.


----------



## varuscelli

Yeah, that's what I suspect, too. But I wonder why they would have dropped the idea? I have to think it was either that it wasn't working out well or they ran out of time to implement it. My bet is that the top strap couldn't be made tight enough (and still be comfortably wearable) to ease the bouncing/flopping of the lamp. I think they'd have to use heavier headband material all around for these heavier lamps.


----------



## psychbeat

I'd be happy of someone made an aftermarket hard plastic holder with a hinged front closure for quick access. 
With a wider base to prevent twisting of the headband and rubber backing maybe. 

Seems u could make em with a 3d printer prolly. ...


----------



## varuscelli

Yeah, that seems like a great idea. Maybe something along the lines of the flashlight holders used on the Fenix headband but a bit less bulky and perhaps more "quick release" design -- and with rubber backing as you suggest. And if something like that were done, it would foreseeably be able to be attached to your headband of choice.


----------



## kwak

Mine arrived today.
First impressions were how much smaller it is than my SC600, both physically smaller and lighter.

Not been out with the light yet, but in the house comparison shows it to have a little less throw than the SC600 and slightly more flood.


As has already been said the headband is disgraceful.
Although the soft rubber mount is comfortable on the forehead even walking around the house it moves a LOT.

I have a headband i've been using with my SC600 that is a LOT more secure, but unfortunately as it's a hard plastic it's find on the side of the head (SC600) but is very uncomfortable on the front.

Fortunately the battery tube is a LOT bigger than my first revision SC600, it accepts both my 3100mAh cells although the Redilast 3100mAh is VERY tight length wise, to the point were i ended up using the unprotected cell as i'm concerned about crushing the spring and/or cell top.

Another thing i noticed is the thread on the tube/cap interface are extremely rough on my example.
Compared to my SC600 they have a very grainy feel when tightening and loosening it.


For first impressions though so far so good.

Which is good as i'd previously sworn not to buy another ZL. 
I was very annoyed at ZL for dumping their first generation SC600's on all of us, that had faith in them and sent them our money months before they released it.
How do they show their appreciation?
By giving us a torch that doesn't accept 80% of current cells 



Cheers
Mark


----------



## varuscelli

kwak said:


> Another thing i noticed is the thread on the tube/cap interface are extremely rough on my example.
> Compared to my SC600 they have a very grainy feel when tightening and loosening it.



It's a good idea to clean and lube the threads when you get a new light. Not all need it, but I know the first ZebraLight I got (an H501w) really benefited from cleaning/lubing right off the bat (it made a huge difference with mine). If threading the tailcap on gives you a sensation of grittiness, the sooner you do this the better. I use Super Lube (inexpensive and effective), but there's a whole thread dedicated to flashlight lubricants and greases (if you haven't seen it yet). You might already know all this, so sorry if I'm repeating known information. 

Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread


----------



## Shorty66

varuscelli said:


> Yeah, that's what I suspect, too. But I wonder why they would have dropped the idea? I have to think it was either that it wasn't working out well or they ran out of time to implement it. My bet is that the top strap couldn't be made tight enough (and still be comfortably wearable) to ease the bouncing/flopping of the lamp. I think they'd have to use heavier headband material all around for these heavier lamps.



I dont really like topstraps but for those who do this slot is really nice. Interesting though, that they didn`t include a removeable one.

I think a good Headband for the Zebras should contain the following features:


A quickrelease-type holder (i like a clip but it could also be some kind of clamp
A plastik base where the clip is mounted to for better stability
perhaps a bit stronger elastics for the heavier lights but thats optional
for the lighter lights some mechanism like the Petzl Zipka has would be awesome


----------



## f22shift

kwak said:


> As has already been said the headband is disgraceful.
> Although the soft rubber mount is comfortable on the forehead even walking around the house it moves a LOT.



really? what if you tighten to where it's not so comfortable? would there be less movement?
have you tried wearing slightly angled on your head?(the headlamp a bit on the top and front of the head)

movement in just walking would be a disaster..


----------



## kwak

varuscelli said:


> It's a good idea to clean and lube the threads when you get a new light. Not all need it, but I know the first ZebraLight I got (an H501w) really benefited from cleaning/lubing right off the bat (it made a huge difference with mine). If threading the tailcap on gives you a sensation of grittiness, the sooner you do this the better. I use Super Lube (inexpensive and effective), but there's a whole thread dedicated to flashlight lubricants and greases (if you haven't seen it yet). You might already know all this, so sorry if I'm repeating known information.
> 
> Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread



Always a useful guide, thanks for your help :thumbsup:

As you say i did clean up the threads and there was some lube there from the factory, it just seemed very gritty.

I've tried several batteries in it tonight and with removing and refitting the cap the threads have gone a lot smoother.
Odd though as if the SC600 was like that i can't remember it being bad enough that i noticed.



f22shift said:


> really? what if you tighten to where it's not so comfortable? would there be less movement?
> have you tried wearing slightly angled on your head?(the headlamp a bit on the top and front of the head)
> 
> movement in just walking would be a disaster..



Problem is i only have the use of 1 arm, so getting a tight head band on my head tends to be a bit of a comedy affair involving teeth, nose and elbows 

It is better tighter, but IMO it only becomes stable when tightened to the point of being uncomfortable.

It is a tough call though, as my other head band has been very stable even with my much heavier TK21.
The SC600 is very stable on that head band to the point where the kids are running and jumping with it on without any problems.

As i say though because my current head band uses a stiffer plastic with a larger mount, it's fine on the side of the head but it's not too comfortable when worn at the front.

The ZL band is very comfortable but not as supportive.
Tough call.

Snapped some pics of my H600 compared to my SC600 and how little difference there is in the internal dimensions but it makes a LOT of difference.
I will point out though my SC600 is a first generation version, the later ones do have a slightly bigger internal diameter battery tube.











Size comparison






Internal diameters of the battery tubes.













Cheers
Mark


----------



## varuscelli

kwak said:


> As has already been said the headband is disgraceful.
> Although the soft rubber mount is comfortable on the forehead even walking around the house it moves a LOT.





f22shift said:


> really? what if you tighten to where it's not so comfortable? would there be less movement?
> have you tried wearing slightly angled on your head?(the headlamp a bit on the top and front of the head)
> 
> movement in just walking would be a disaster..



I'm not really in agreement with the amount of movement of the lamp, although I realize each of us will perceive such things a bit differently. And I imagine different size and shapes of heads might affect how the headband and lamp sit, too. 

In just walking around, I didn't really notice what I'd call excess movement of the lamp. But aside from how the headband arrives as delivered from the manufacturer, the text and images I show in post 261 of this thread address minor re-routing of the headband that does away with most of the lamp movement. I can't vouch for how it would work while running or doing really jerky head movements, but even though I think the headband could have been done better there are easy workarounds to fix the movement issues for regular use. It seems to be working for me, in any case...but as they say, your mileage may vary.


----------



## varuscelli

kwak said:


> Always a useful guide, thanks for your help :thumbsup:
> 
> As you say i did clean up the threads and there was some lube there from the factory, it just seemed very gritty.



It's funny -- my H501w arrived as you describe your H600 and had that "gritty" feel when I first tried to tighten the tailcap. My H600 was much smoother in feel when I tightened it...but I'm sure that can easily vary from copy to copy. I know on my H501w, after cleaning and lubing it and with a few uses (battery changes and repeated tightening and loosening of the tailcap), the tailcap got smoother and smoother to tighten as I went along. 



kwak said:


> Problem is i only have the use of 1 arm, so getting a tight head band on my head tends to be a bit of a comedy affair involving teeth, nose and elbows
> 
> It is better tighter, but IMO it only becomes stable when tightened to the point of being uncomfortable.



Yeah, I can see where that would present difficulties in dealing with a headband. The way I re-routed mine was a bit of a struggle for me with two hands (and my ability to spatially conceive what I need to do is not always that great, anyway).


----------



## psychbeat

Hmm I wonder how hard it would be to wire one up for direct drive


----------



## varuscelli

psychbeat said:


> Hmm I wonder how hard it would be to wire one up for direct drive



If you succeed please let us know...


----------



## varuscelli

Shorty66 said:


> I think a good Headband for the Zebras should contain the following features:
> 
> A quickrelease-type holder (i like a clip but it could also be some kind of clamp
> A plastik base where the clip is mounted to for better stability
> perhaps a bit stronger elastics for the heavier lights but thats optional
> for the lighter lights some mechanism like the Petzl Zipka has would be awesome



That's a great wish list. I'm really surprised that ZL pretty much stayed with the same setup, especially the thin-and-comfortable (but lacking substantial build) conventional ZL headband. I was really hoping they were going to implement some kind of improvement in the headband based on user testing and feedback.


----------



## kwak

varuscelli said:


> I'm not really in agreement with the amount of movement of the lamp, although I realize each of us will perceive such things a bit differently. And I imagine different size and shapes of heads might affect how the headband and lamp sit, too.
> 
> In just walking around, I didn't really notice what I'd call excess movement of the lamp. But aside from how the headband arrives as delivered from the manufacturer, the text and images I show in post 261 of this thread address minor re-routing of the headband that does away with most of the lamp movement. I can't vouch for how it would work while running or doing really jerky head movements, but even though I think the headband could have been done better there are easy workarounds to fix the movement issues for regular use. It seems to be working for me, in any case...but as they say, your mileage may vary.



As you say with different shaped heads and different uses there are likely to be a few different opinions.

I'll be trying it out on the field tonight and have no choice of headbands now as i mistook a rivet for a popper on my other one, so it's now broken. 
So we'll see.

It's a tough balance though making a headband that's stable AND comfortable.
It's made worse by the fact that it's mounted on the front of your noggin.

I tried it on the side of my head (like my other headband) and it does feel more stable.

Comparing the 2 though it's obvious my cheapo one has is more stable as it has a larger footprint and it made of stiffer material.








After searching on headbands, i found your post on the Fenix headband.
I was just about to order one, but seeing your post and reading that the SC600 doesn't fit you've saved me some money, thank you :thumbsup:




Cheers
Mark


----------



## C2H5OH

In turbo mode it only runs for 3 minutes? Can you put it in turbomode right away again?


----------



## pjandyho

C2H5OH said:


> In turbo mode it only runs for 3 minutes? Can you put it in turbomode right away again?


Just switch it off and switch it on again.


----------



## varuscelli

kwak said:


> After searching on headbands, i found your post on the Fenix headband.
> I was just about to order one, but seeing your post and reading that the SC600 doesn't fit you've saved me some money, thank you :thumbsup:



Actually, there is at least one way of attaching an SC600 to a Fenix headband using a TwoFish lockblock to go around one of the existing light holders. But it sits awkwardly. 

But the H600 can be used with the Fenix headband in a number of ways. The Fenix headband itself is substantially thicker than the ZebraLight headband. If you slipped the ZebraLight H600 silicon holder into place on the Fenix headband, I think the holder would be much more stable because of the thickness of the Fenix headband. 

The H600 can also be placed in the Fenix holder. It can then be used vertically on the side of the head or the holder can be slid to the front of the Fenix headband and it can be used in the normal horizontal position across the forehead. 

But, the problem with the forehead position is that the Fenix holder is made of hard plastic, so the edges would be less comfortable than the ZebraLight silicon holder. There would be options for making the Fenix holder more comfortable for forehead contact, I think (with some kind of extra padding), but I haven't experimented with that yet. 

I don't have a photo of the ZebraLight silicon holder on the Fenix headband (but it can be easily placed there). I do have a couple photos of the H600 in the Fenix holders. At the side position, the holder can be slid far enough forward so that there is no interference with the beam from the head.


----------



## davidt1

The slender shape of the H600, it appears to me, would make it a better light to carry in the pocket. A Fenix clip would fit this light nicely.


----------



## Zenbaas

Received mine yesterday.Very happy with the light but my silicon holder has a crack in one of the loops. Contacted ZL but still waiting for a response.


----------



## varuscelli

davidt1 said:


> The slender shape of the H600, it appears to me, would make it a better light to carry in the pocket. A Fenix clip would fit this light nicely.



Good idea...but do you have a particular one of their clips in mind or just suggesting it generically? 

Note: it looks like a clip would need have a 2 cm diameter (or just slightly smaller to be snug). 

I measure the recess where a clip would naturally fit at 2 cm with my really cheap caliper...but maybe kwak could give us a more accurate measurement with his digital caliper...


----------



## varuscelli

Zenbaas said:


> Received mine yesterday.Very happy with the light but my silicon holder has a crack in one of the loops. Contacted ZL but still waiting for a response.



I'd be willing to be that they'll promptly replace it for you, but I'm guessing there *might* be a slight delay on availability of extra holders (depending on where you received yours from). If you contacted ZebraLight in Irving, Texas, yesterday was a holiday (Thanksgiving Day, Thursday Nov. 24) and some people/businesses have Friday off as well...so you might not hear from the U.S. offices right away if you contacted them on the holiday.


----------



## Zenbaas

varuscelli said:


> I'd be willing to be that they'll promptly replace it for you, but I'm guessing there *might* be a slight delay on availability of extra holders (depending on where you received yours from). If you contacted ZebraLight in Irving, Texas, yesterday was a holiday (Thanksgiving Day, Thursday Nov. 24) and some people/businesses have Friday off as well...so you might not hear from the U.S. offices right away if you contacted them on the holiday.


\
Mine was shipped from China I think. Lilian contacted me just now and said they will; ship a new one on monday. Must say I really like the tint on this light. Also the diameter of the light is very close to my XenoE03. It's not that big oe heavy at all.


----------



## varuscelli

Zenbaas said:


> Mine was shipped from China I think. Lilian contacted me just now and said they will; ship a new one on monday. Must say I really like the tint on this light. Also the diameter of the light is very close to my XenoE03. It's not that big oe heavy at all.



I'm hoping to order an extra holder or two to play with alternate ways of using the lamp, but I haven't heard anything from ZebraLight on my request yet. Perhaps I should get you to act on my behalf. :devil:


----------



## davidt1

varuscelli said:


> Good idea...but do you have a particular one of their clips in mind or just suggesting it generically?
> 
> Note: it looks like a clip would need have a 2 cm diameter (or just slightly smaller to be snug).
> 
> I measure the recess where a clip would naturally fit at 2 cm with my really cheap caliper...but maybe kwak could give us a more accurate measurement with his digital caliper...



Check here:
http://www.fenixgear.com/flashlight/Fenix_Accessories_Series.html

Clips for any of their CR123 lights will fit ZL lights.

I bought a SC600 clip for a pepper spray pen before learning about Fenix clips. When I realized that the Fenix clips only cost $1.50 each, I bought like three different types.

The one on the right is the SC600 clip that I bought for the pepper spray which fit perfectly. I then installed the Fenix PD10 clip on the pepper spray which also fits perfectly but a lot more secure than the SC600 clip. The clip on the left will also fit the SC600/H600, but I recommend the wider PD10 clip.


----------



## HIDblue

Great idea davidt! I'm going to order an H600 on a black Friday special and I've got a PD20 lying around somewhere.


----------



## varuscelli

davidt1: thanks for those suggestions!

In talking about Fenix clips for the H600, I was looking through the flashlights we have available here and tried putting the clip from the Fenix MC11 on the H600. It _almost _fits, but the problem is that the "notch" space available for a clip on the H600 is just a bit too narrow for the MC11 clip to fit solidly (the diameter of the clip is a good fit, but the clip rim is a bit too wide to fit the notch. 

But as a side note to that little clip search, here's interesting size comparison between the Fenix MC11 and ZebraLight H600. The total weight of these two with batteries is within a couple of grams of each other, too.


----------



## varuscelli

For a closer look at what I meant about the fit of the Fenix MC11 clip on the H600, here are a couple of pics. In the second one, you can see problem with the clip rim width relative to the width of the side groove on the H600 (causing the clip to wobble too much to work very well). For what it's worth, I'm not exactly a fan of this clip design anyway...but it was worth a try.


----------



## tony613

Silly question maybe, but does the SC600 clip fit the H600? Going strictly from pictures, of course, but the grove for the clip on the SC600 actually looks just a shade smaller than where a clip may go on the H600.


----------



## varuscelli

Tony, the SC600 clip groove has a larger diameter than the H600 groove, and the SC600 clip is too large (diameter-wise) for the H600. The diameter of the H600 groove is about 20mm while the diameter of the SC600 groove is about 22mm. And yeah -- I've tried the SC600 clip on the H600 and it just sort of rattles around up and down the body of the lamp.


----------



## davidt1

I suggest filling the groove with a thin strip of Gorilla tape and use a wide clip like the Fenix PD10 clip. But on second thought, if you are using the silicon holder, then perhaps not using a clip at all might be a good idea since removing and reinstalling the clip each you use the silicon holder could be a chore.


----------



## qazx

varuscelli said:


> For a closer look at what I meant about the fit of the Fenix MC11 clip on the H600, here are a couple of pics. In the second one, you can see problem with the clip rim width relative to the width of the side groove on the H600 (causing the clip to wobble too much to work very well). For what it's worth, I'm not exactly a fan of this clip design anyway...but it was worth a try.



did the fenix pd10 clip fit the h600 ok between those grooves?


----------



## Shorty66

davidt1 said:


> I suggest filling the groove with a thin strip of Gorilla tape and use a wide clip like the Fenix PD10 clip. But on second thought, if you are using the silicon holder, then perhaps not using a clip at all might be a good idea since removing and reinstalling the clip each you use the silicon holder could be a chore.



Thats another good reason for a new holder design. Using a clip, it should be easy to design a holder which can also be used while a clip is installed. Thus the time needed to switch between beltcarry and headlamp mode would be reduced significantly.


----------



## varuscelli

qazx said:


> did the fenix pd10 clip fit the h600 ok between those grooves?



Sorry, I can't answer that. Davidt1 suggested the PD10 clip, but I don't own one of those. 

I'm not sure if the PD10 clip diameter would be right without doing as davidt1 suggests and somehow building up the H600 groove with something like Gorilla tape. That seems like it would certainly be a workable idea...but I could also see how some people might not necessarily want to modify their H600 with tape as opposed to perhaps finding a clip that would be a snug fit without the tape. 

I think to be an exact fit for the H600, a clip would need a 20mm inner diameter and a clip rim not more than 4mm wide.


----------



## davidt1

Those clips are so inexpensive. Buying a bunch of them to try out won't cost you that much. It has been my experience that clips with wider clamps/teeth grip on to the light tighter than clips with thin clamps/teeth. That is why I suggest the PD10 clip. The PD10 clip also worked on my Mini AA after I pushed in those teeth as far as they could go. If the PD10 clip doesn't work for the H600, chances are it will fit some other light and won't be a total waste.


----------



## varuscelli

davidt1 said:


> Those clips are so inexpensive. Buying a bunch of them to try out won't cost you that much. It has been my experience that clips with wider clamps/teeth grip on to the light tighter than clips with thin clamps/teeth. That is why I suggest the PD10 clip. The PD10 clip also worked on my Mini AA after I pushed in those teeth as far as they could go. If the PD10 clip doesn't work for the H600, chances are it will fit some other light and won't be a total waste.



Good points, David. 

Any chance you can check the inner diameter on the Fenix clips you got to see if any of them have a 20mm diameter and post back here so that interested people could have a size reference point for a specific clip?


----------



## varuscelli

davidt1 said:


>



Ahh, but I also see that with the width of the clamp on this one that it could be over 20mm in diameter and span multiple ridges on the H600 (instead of sitting inside the available groove on the lamp). With a clip like this that has a wider clamp, the clamp would need to have a 21mm diameter (I think) to adequately span the H600 ridges and fit around the lamp snugly. Anything over 21mm would, I believe, be too large for the H600 and would require some kind of shoring up of the H600 so that the clamp could grip adequately.


----------



## davidt1

Yeah those grooves make it tough to attach a clip. It's a shame because the almost pen-like shape would make it ideal to clip this light inside a shirt pocket.


----------



## qazx

i want to order the h600 but its still on back order on their website.
i emailed zl and theyre saying 10-12 days is the estimated waiting time.

interestingly, they also said some people were using the h51 clip on the h600.


----------



## varuscelli

qazx said:


> interestingly, they also said some people were using the h51 clip on the h600.



Good information. 

Any new owners of the H600 out there also have the H51 so you could test the H51 clip on the H600 and let us know about the fit?

Also, my last contact with ZebraLight indicated that the were working on making accessories available to order via their website (an ability that has not previously existed).


----------



## mtnkid85

Its now been 12 days since I got my shipping confirmation, about how long have you guys who recieved them have to wait after the shipping notice email?

Tracking only says that it was processed through sort facility in Shanghai...


----------



## varuscelli

I received mine about two days after receiving shipping notification, but I believe the package was already on the U.S. west coast when I received confirmation. If yours was shipping through Shanghai at the time you received the notice, there's no telling how long it could take, but I've seen other similarly shipped items (not ZebraLight, but other stuff routing from Asian origination points) take up to 15 days to receive. But those shipping situations vary case by case. I suspect that if you've already waited 12 days, you should expect it any day now.


----------



## pjandyho

I paid extra $14 for DHL shipping and got it the next day. Much faster than the $12 EMS.


----------



## varuscelli

Accuracy of white wall beam shots is not an area of expertise for me, but I wanted to post a shot comparing the SC600 and H600 beam patterns. I don't have any large white wall surfaces in my house to get any distance between the lights and a wall, so I had to do these up close against the doors of a white storage cabinet. Lights are both in turbo mode about 9 inches from the surface of the cabinet, set side by side, both lights in a single shot, camera about two feet from cabinet, camera white balance set to auto. I brought the exposure down after the fact (in Photoshop) to help make the patterns more visible. 

Personally, when I compare the beam patterns from the SC600 and H600 in various situations, they seem very similar.


----------



## levelflight

Received my H600s today and have to say that I am really pleased with the tint, much cooler than my SC600, which looks almost greenish by comparison. The H600 is very similar to my SC60 so overall this is a welcome addition to my ZL family. I can see myself ordering another SC600 when ZL sorts out the clip issue and provides a screw mounted solution.
I have to say I'm happy with the original headband as it is so easy to stow, has no hard pieces and is very small. In use I have no complaints and it would be easy enough to add a top strap if that ever becomes necessary. I do understand, however, the need and application for a more rugged solution. Overall there is very good feedback and contributions on this issue, thank you all.


----------



## mtnkid85

Alright! 14 days after shipping notice my H600 is now in my hands.

First impressions- the light itself is great, excellent craftsmanship. This is my first Zebralight and I was surprised by how little it weighs, you really could not make this light much smaller physically. Because of its size it certainly does warm up on the high mode, but not anything painful/shocking.

It weighs a ~2oz less than my Mammut TX1 which it will hopefully be replacing as my main lamp.
It attaches nicely onto both of my Rock helmets a older BD halfdome and a newer Trango Skull cap. Both of which have different style attachment points.
The user interface is managable, however Im certain it will take some learning as I often find my self randomly clicking the light as I think about what Im needing to do to get it to the mode I want. (It would be nice if it would start up in Med).
The button is accessable while wearing gloves, simply by putting my thumb over that entire side of the light and pushing. This is must for my use.

I dont find the rubber holder to have any fault, it seems like a great way to securely and simply hold the light; however, the head band that the rubber connects to is ridiculous. It is way to lightweight/stretchy. If Zebralight would beef up the band to the same material all my other BD, Mammut and Petzl head bands are then there would be no more worry the light moving/bouncing.

Even my little mammut TR1 has a beefier headband- which I think im going to rob and attach to the H600.

I will update again after I get to take it out and really put it to use, so far Ive just taken it out a short bike ride and worn it around the shop while working on projects.


----------



## mikedeason

Just got mine and it has the floodiest beam I've ever seen...which is good for what I use it for.

Not knowing much about HL's I'm assuming its so floody because of the diffuser in the center of the lens?


----------



## HIDblue

Just got my H600. I was waffling back and forth on the purchase since I didn't really _need _a new light, but I couldn't pass up the Black Friday specials. Anyways, I was really surprised how small and lightweight the H600 actually is. It's hard to gauge size and dimensions of a light from other CPF'ers photos so it was a pleasant surprise that the H600 was smaller than I had expected. Even with the battery inside, it's still very lightweight and that XM-L emitter is just huge putting out a great, floody beam. It may be my eyes, but the hotspot is just flat out white with some yellow artifacts around it and then it gets cooler in the spill...but that could just be my eyes. 

It's odd that the H600 doesn't have a pocket clip unlike the other ZL headlamps so I scrounged around in my box of lights and tried out a couple different pocket clips. After trying several pocket clips, I settled in on the pocket clip from my Jetbeam BC10. It fit the 2 flat grooves of the H600 almost perfectly with just a little room to spare. I like the contrast of the silver clip and the ZL's natural Ano and the BC10's clip has just enough spring to fit on a belt or pant/shirt pocket with ease but with enough tension to keep it in place. Unfortunately, trying out so many clips, I managed to scratch off some of the Ano by the flat grooves on the H600, but it is what it is...








I really like the form factor of the H600 over ZL's SC line with the side button. IMO, the H600 is much more user-friendly and it readily tail-stands on most surfaces for hands free light which is particularly important to me since I plan on using the H600 as a regular 'ol EDC light and not as a headlamp. 

The H600 does get really hot on max high, but the kick down, albeit noticeable, doesn't detract from the light at all. Additionally, 2+ hours at 420 lumens for a light this small is just stellar. I also bought a Jetbeam RRT-0 XM-L and the H600 is almost comparable in size, but the RRT-0 puts out 550 lumens (on an RCR123) for only 20 minutes, while the H600 puts out an impressive 750 lumens for 3 minutes and then kicks down to 420 lumens for 2.3 more hours. I know that's apples and oranges, but I bought them together and just thought it was interesting that they were relatively the same size. 

On a side note, the electronic clicky is a lot stiffer and harder to depress than I had imagined. This should take care of any accidental activations in pocket carry...guess I'll just have to get used to it. 

Overall, I'm amazed at what ZL has done with this H600. Now, I'm really looking forward to the all Flood version...the H602 XM-L.


----------



## mikedeason

You mean there will be an even floodier version?

Mine is extremely floody compared to my only other LED flashlights...Fenix PD31 and TK35.

I thought this was a flood version!


----------



## pjandyho

mikedeason said:


> You mean there will be an even floodier version?
> 
> Mine is extremely floody compared to my only other LED flashlights...Fenix PD31 and TK35.
> 
> I thought this was a flood version!


Yup, waiting for the H502w (AA) and H602w (18650). Just the emitter with a dome lens and no reflector for extreme smooth flood.


----------



## varuscelli

mikedeason said:


> You mean there will be an even floodier version?
> 
> Mine is extremely floody compared to my only other LED flashlights...Fenix PD31 and TK35.
> 
> I thought this was a flood version!



The H600 is kind of floody in the same way that the SC600 is kind of floody. Neither are true floods but lean a bit to the floody side. It might be kind of hard to tell from the close-up beam comparison I posted in post 315 of this thread, but the H600 and SC600 are very similar when you test them side by side at various distances. 

For a better look at the H600 and a flood, here's the H501w (left) and the H600 (right) side by side. I don't make any pretense of these being accurate in terms of tint, but post for beam pattern only. The H501w is on high setting, the H600 on one of the lower-mid settings to keep them roughly equal. These are also very close to the projected surface (about a foot away)...best I could do without having to use an oddly colored wall. The H501w is one of ZebraLight's true flood lamps.


----------



## excfenix

Waiting for a floody and neutral H600 with a reversible clip! Would definitely help as a reader lamp when the power goes out. How do we find out about new/upcoming products from zebralight?


----------



## pjandyho

excfenix said:


> Waiting for a floody and neutral H600 with a reversible clip! Would definitely help as a reader lamp when the power goes out. How do we find out about new/upcoming products from zebralight?


It's in Zebralight's main page, on the left column where it says "Compare all models". Someone else pointed me there.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/spr...mVwOW9Fc0FfUDFVSHVNS1E&hl=en&authkey=CNqP6KIC


----------



## HIDblue

excfenix said:


> Waiting for a floody and neutral H600 with a reversible clip! Would definitely help as a reader lamp when the power goes out. How do we find out about new/upcoming products from zebralight?



If you go to ZL's website, there's a red "Compare All Models" tab button on the left hand side of the page that opens up a spreadsheet of current and future offerings with expected release dates.


----------



## levelflight

varuscelli said:


> For a better look at the H600 and a flood, here's the H501w (left) and the H600 (right) side by side. I don't make any pretense of these being accurate in terms of tint, but post for beam pattern only. The H501w is on high setting, the H600 on one of the lower-mid settings to keep them roughly equal. These are also very close to the projected surface (about a foot away)...best I could do without having to use an oddly colored wall. The H501w is one of ZebraLight's true flood lamps.



Do you have a white ceiling in your house that you could use instead, just at thought.

Yeah, the flood vs. hotspot change is a bit of an issue for me. I used the light for the first time today comparing it with my H60, which has a nice floody beam. At first blush I'd have to say I'm not that impressed with the H600 for close up work, time will tell on how well it performs outdoors, something that is also important to me. I'm actually thinking that it may be preferable in a large open area. At this early point I'm already looking for a diffuser solution for close up work.

It would be nice if ZL could redesign the bezel to accommodate a pop-in diffuser, but in the world of flashlight R&D things change so quickly that I can understand the somewhat complicated nature of this request. Still, a bezel is a bezel so why couldn't it be adapted to capture a small diffuser disk? Time will tell I suppose. Meanwhile I'll have mine lead-user modified in short order.

Bottom line is that this is a very nice power output upgrade for almost the same form factor as the H60. Thank you ZL for making the best headlamp in my collection.


----------



## varuscelli

levelflight said:


> Do you have a white ceiling in your house that you could use instead, just at thought.



Yeah, but I find setting up for ceiling shots a pain in the backside.


----------



## levelflight

OK, how about tipping your house on its side? he...he...he


----------



## varuscelli

Done. Photos coming up after I clear the debris from the former west wall of the house.


----------



## levelflight

Um..ok, as long as they don't clutter up those beam patterns.....!


----------



## varuscelli

:nana:


----------



## kwak

levelflight said:


> Yeah, the flood vs. hotspot change is a bit of an issue for me. I used the light for the first time today comparing it with my H60, which has a nice floody beam. At first blush I'd have to say I'm not that impressed with the H600 for close up work, time will tell on how well it performs outdoors, something that is also important to me. I'm actually thinking that it may be preferable in a large open area. At this early point I'm already looking for a diffuser solution for close up work.



Thing is though, the H600 is only 190Lm, the H600 is 4x brighter at 750Lm.

So although the flood may not spread as much at the same distance, with the extra lumens of the H600 you have the option of moving it a LOT further away, so end up with both a bright light and more flood.

Had my H600 for around a week now, i've used it for:
Mountain biking
Hiking
Working on my car
At work
Fixing my radio controlled vehicles
Finding a lost earing

To be honest it's done every single job exceptionally well.

It takes all my cells apart from my RediLast 3100mAh cells (too long), it has enough throw for mountain biking at speed at night and hiking over very rough terrain with very very narrow paths, yet has enough flood for working on my car and very small job on my RC stuff.

Only real dowsides i've found so far are:
The headband strap is extremely poor quality (the rubber holder is very very comfortable though, with no adverse effects even after wearing it for over 2 hours)
The torch gets extremely hot on turbo, to the point where it's a struggle to hold it at times.
Personally i'm not a fan of the gradual step down, i much prefer the all or nothing on my early SC600

The automatic step down might look great from a advertising and marketing side, but in practice what's the point in spending a lot more money on a 750Lm torch if it rarely gets anywhere near that output.
With my early model SC600 if i put it on high, it stays on high till 2.7v is reached them turns itself off.
For me personally i much prefer that to the point where it is now a matter that would stop me buying ZL lights in the future if they come standard with this setting.



Cheers
Mark


----------



## BirdofPrey

Anyone able to post up a couple pictures of the H60 vs the H600? I'm really curious how the beams compare to one another. 

Before it got cold, I was using my Fenix headlamp to mow after dark. However, if this works for it, I'll be switching to the 600 just for the convenience of no cable/battery box.


----------



## levelflight

kwak said:


> Thing is though, the H600 is only 190Lm, the H600 is 4x brighter at 750Lm.
> 
> So although the flood may not spread as much at the same distance, with the extra lumens of the H600 you have the option of moving it a LOT further away, so end up with both a bright light and more flood.



kwak,

You make a very good point, one I will take into consideration when I get to use the light more. The thing is though, that the H60 has more than enough light for close up work along with a very nice smooth flood that illuminates everything equally, especially close-ups. It was the first thing I noticed when using the H600. No, take that back, the first thing I noticed was the nicer tint. So it sounds like the H600 is a much better choice for open area activities, especially ones undertaken at high speed! Gotta like that.

So far as the step down 'feature' is concerned I'm wondering how I will feel about it during regular use. All I can say at this time is that I was very happy without the step down feature and haven't cottoned on to the benefit of having it, based on forum comments. Do all H600s include it?

FWIW ZL seems to flip flop a little too quickly on design implementation every now and then, to be expected I suppose. All in the quest for the perfect light and in reality, there is no such beast. Still, it is a heck of a headlamp.


----------



## varuscelli

My take on the H600 is that the 420 lumen H1 setting should be thought of as the longer-term high-level usage setting, with occasional bumps up to 750 lumens as needed (whether for a few seconds or a couple of minutes at a time). I'm pretty sure that is that's exactly the way it's intended to be used -- that is, briefly at 750 lumens when needed and at 420 lumens when needed for extended high-output operation. 

On its mid levels (65 / 21 lumens), the H600 seems pretty good for close-up work, but not quite as nice as a more true flood at those same levels, but I say that based on comparing it to the H501w only, with the H501w on H1 80 lumens and the H600 on M1 65 lumens (I think I have those numbers right). 

On the step down, I think the H600 (given its high output and very light weight) gets way too hot in Turbo mode for continued use without the step down, despite all the discussion of use of the SC600/SC600w (with a much heavier body) without step down. I can picture using the SC600 without step down (bike riding, etc.) but can't picture the H600 without it just because of the heat.


----------



## B0wz3r

Actually, 750 lumens isn't 4x brighter than 190 lumens. It's 4x the intensity, but not 4x the brightness.

The visual system encodes brightness on a logarithmic scale, and brightness specifically is best described by using a power function with an exponent of .333. 

As a result, for a perceived doubling in brightness, you actually need to triple the objective intensity of a light.

A 30 lumen light will look twice as bright as a 10 lumen light; a 600 lumen light will look twice as bright as a 200 lumen light, and so on.


----------



## f22shift

i feel sorry for flashlight companies. i thought people wanted the gradual step-down so it doesn't cut out surprisingly. i'm glad i don't work for one of these companies, otherwise i would be bald with a fist full of hair.


----------



## Chads93GT

Currently I have the spark st-500cw for caving but I also just ordered this lamp as well. I was wondering what the best 18650 rechargeables are as far as runtime. Panasonic? Sanyo? I can't wait to use this and my spark down in tag in January.


----------



## kwak

f22shift said:


> i feel sorry for flashlight companies. i thought people wanted the gradual step-down so it doesn't cut out surprisingly. i'm glad i don't work for one of these companies, otherwise i would be bald with a fist full of hair.



Absolutely a tough job, you really can't please every one all the time.

For my Radio controlled hobby we have been able to program our electronic speed controllers via a PC for a number of years now.
Maybe something like this would be the future.

For me personally i want a fixed brightness till the battery runs out, i carry spare cells with me so if i do drain a cell i just fit a new one.
This works great as i know that if i set my SC600 (1st generation) to say high it will stay on high.

With my H600 when i'm out walking the torch gradually gets darker and darker until i can no longer see some fairly close paths.
So i turn the torch off and back on again and end up having to do that all the time.

Although the H600 shape, weight and style is far better suited to hiking, i rarely bother using it now because of this step down 
I use my SC600 99% of the time now, as my early example has no step down function.



Cheers
Mark


----------



## BirdofPrey

Chads93GT said:


> I can't wait to use this and my spark down in tag in January.



Let me know how it goes. I used my H60w on a small caving trip and was planning on using my soon-to-be-here H600 at TAG next year (they do it more than once don't they?).


----------



## BirdofPrey

kwak said:


> So i turn the torch off and back on again and end up having to do that all the time.
> 
> Mark



How quickly does it start to ramp down?


----------



## Chads93GT

BirdofPrey said:


> Let me know how it goes. I used my H60w on a small caving trip and was planning on using my soon-to-be-here H600 at TAG next year (they do it more than once don't they?).



Well its not the tag fall cavein, we are just going down to bounce some pits, the cave in is in october


----------



## BirdofPrey

Chads93GT said:


> Well its not the tag fall cavein, we are just going down to bounce some pits, the cave in is in october



Been several years since I've been. Was supposed to go last year but stuff came up.


----------



## acrosteve

Has a date been established for the availability of the warm tint? I can't find it in stock


----------



## varuscelli

acrosteve said:


> Has a date been established for the availability of the warm tint? I can't find it in stock



Well, the status in the Compare All Models chart on the ZL site shows "pre-order soon," so that's a good sign. But pre-order availability and actual delivery can vary quite a bit. I know once the H600 was available for pre-order it was an additional five or six weeks until actual delivery. But who knows? Actual delivery of the H600w models might happen more quickly.


----------



## limetrude

B0wz3r said:


> Okay, I'm going to ask a dumb question here... Why would anyone need 750L from a headlamp?




I used to think exactly the same thing, but suddenly remembered 2 stories that I will briefly share:

I live in interior Alaska & during the winter it gets quite dark for large periods of the day. I was out on a medium distance snowmachine trip (about 50 miles/5hours of riding to get home) when my snowmachine's headlight went out-- I replaced the bulb with one of my spares (always carry spares) and it promptly went out about 1 hour later. I checked all the wiring for shorts and replaced it with my final spare... it too died after about 30 minutes- so now I had no headlight. I tried using my little whatever brand headlamp to navigate by, but it was exceptionally dangerous as it was not many lumens... ended up duct-taping my deerelight to my hat to make it back and I can honestly say that 200 lumens really wasn't enough. Is 750L too much? Maybe, but I would rather have overkill than have to run some of those canyons/creekbeds without sufficient light. When I got home, I figured out there was a bad voltage regulator killing bulbs (and making the grip warmers extra toasty )

Second story is late fall story, also very dark - was out on small lake where my friend has a cabin - we were in boat mid/late evening running back to his cabin on the far side of the lake. Motor died, ended up getting the motor running after about an hour of tearing the carb apart to clean out a plugged jet. Now it was dark on shore, but still enough light in the sky to navigate towards shore... once we got within 200-300 yards we realized we were going to have to run a ways to one side of where we thought the cabin was and then cut along close to shoreline with a flashlight looking for the trail to the cabin. Again with my deerelight and about 200 lumens we managed to find it... but would I have loved to have 700+ lumens hands-free right about then? ABSOLUTELY!!

So, I guess for a headlamp I would definitely prefer some serious power available when I need it, and run about 200/50/10 lumens(ish) when I don't need it, pending on the task at hand. I will find occasion to be grateful for having 700+ lumens at my disposal!

Just my 0.02 -- coming from someone who once thought anything more than 300L in a pocket sized light was serious overkill...


----------



## TedTheLed

unfortunately the h600 supplies 700+ lumens for only the first few minutes of (freshly charged) battery use..then it blinks off if you're lucky enough to have an earlier model ("we meant to do that" says Zebra..think Peewee) and you have to twist the battery cap to get light..anyone else who doesn't know the 'trick' can click till doomsday and get no light..later models just step down a brightness level after five minutes at 700+ (unless you're lucky enough to have gotten one of the defective no step down models) -- so, most of the time, there is no 700+ lumen possible with the h600..
Looking into the Saint now.
ps I use 700+ lumens to scan the distance for coyotes, and other green eyeshiners..(like lions).


----------



## levelflight

kwak said:


> Absolutely a tough job, you really can't please every one all the time.
> 
> For my Radio controlled hobby we have been able to program our electronic speed controllers via a PC for a number of years now.
> Maybe something like this would be the future.
> 
> For me personally i want a fixed brightness till the battery runs out, i carry spare cells with me so if i do drain a cell i just fit a new one.
> This works great as i know that if i set my SC600 (1st generation) to say high it will stay on high.
> 
> With my H600 when i'm out walking the torch gradually gets darker and darker until i can no longer see some fairly close paths.
> So i turn the torch off and back on again and end up having to do that all the time.
> 
> Although the H600 shape, weight and style is far better suited to hiking, i rarely bother using it now because of this step down
> I use my SC600 99% of the time now, as my early example has no step down function.



Well now that I understand how the step down function works I am seriously concerned. I too would TOTALLY prefer full brightness until the battery runs out. I assumed all along that it ramped down to the next lower level and stayed at that brightness until it stepped down again. This idea of a slow continual fade doesn't suit my purpose at all, as I too carry extra batteries. I am also into RC and much appreciate being able to program my ESCs as needed for optimum flight performance, so I think you have hit the nail on the head with this one, although it is likely not going to be adopted as quickly as it should.

To be able to program your personal user functions of a flashlight would be the best way to satisfy such a divergent set of valid needs because it potentially addresses not only the step down issue but also how to activate the strobe function etc. Or they could have two model styles available, even if it adds delivery time. If I understand this step down issue correctly I will not be purchasing any more ZL products with this 'feature'. This is a 180 degree departure from my longstanding commitment to ZL products.


----------



## BirdofPrey

Well, I'm supposed to have one coming for Christmas but the company is not giving us any updates on status nor responding to any of our emails. May be time to visit jeers. 

Sent via HTC Thunderbolt using Tapatalk.


----------



## mtnkid85

Oh, its funny. Everyone wants something more. lol
While I too was somewhat bummed when I realized how quickly you lose the "750 lm" mode, I still feel some sort of step down/gradual dimming is required. I use my lights in situations where, at times you can not simply stop what your doing to swap batteries. I need to have some way to tell me in advance that I need to be swaping batteries sometime soon and still have some amount of imediate light.

I do wish that we could use that 750lm for longer per battery though. Perhaps if it didnt step down untell it could only power the dimmer of the medium modes or perhaps even the brighter of the low modes...


----------



## robostudent5000

does anyone know if the silicone holders for the H600 will also fit the H60? sorry if this question has been answered before.


----------



## varuscelli

robostudent5000 said:


> does anyone know if the silicone holders for the H600 will also fit the H60? sorry if this question has been answered before.



I thought someone would be able to answer this based on owning both, but perhaps not. I don't own the H60, but I have a feeling it will fit. If it helps, I get an inner diameter measurement of somewhere between 20 and 21mm for the holder (closer to 20mm, I think). I believe the outer diameter of the H60 is 21.5mm (where I've seen it specified). If the outer diameter measurement for the H60 is correct at 21.5mm, it should fit...but it also depends on where that measurement on the H60 is taken for the 21.5mm measurement (the outside of the ridges or inside the recesses -- and these kinds of measurements as provided by the manufacturers, in my opinion, vary widely as far as accuracy and exactly "where" the measurements are taken for body diameters). But if you've got an H60 and can measure it across the holder recesses, we could probably figure it out.


----------



## robostudent5000

i got a reply from Zebra that the holders are different sizes, and presumably incompatible. 

thanks for checking though. i appreciated it.



varuscelli said:


> I thought someone would be able to answer this based on owning both, but perhaps not. I don't own the H60, but I have a feeling it will fit. If it helps, I get an inner diameter measurement of somewhere between 20 and 21mm for the holder (closer to 20mm, I think). I believe the outer diameter of the H60 is 21.5mm (where I've seen it specified). If the outer diameter measurement for the H60 is correct at 21.5mm, it should fit...but it also depends on where that measurement on the H60 is taken for the 21.5mm measurement (the outside of the ridges or inside the recesses -- and these kinds of measurements as provided by the manufacturers, in my opinion, vary widely as far as accuracy and exactly "where" the measurements are taken for body diameters). But if you've got an H60 and can measure it across the holder recesses, we could probably figure it out.


----------



## psychbeat

I've used an h51 GITD holder with an L2P (p60 18650 flashlight)

It had to stretch quite a bit but worked. 

Silicone stretches surprisingly well.


----------



## varuscelli

robostudent5000 said:


> i got a reply from Zebra that the holders are different sizes, and presumably incompatible.
> 
> thanks for checking though. i appreciated it.



Interesting (and you're welcome). I guess that means that the recesses in the H60 are smaller than I suspected they were. Ahh, well...


----------



## jazzpilot

I am very partisan right now, but I will express my opinion that Zebralight SUCKS, and I will never, ever buy their products again.

I ordered their H600 at the end of October. I had to inquire as to when they thought it would be shipped, which they told me it was "early December."

I got notification of it being shipped, then nothing... Now it seems that it's lost in the mail, and *Zebralight hasn't done diddly squat to help me resolve the situation*. I've written them 2 or 3 times to ask them what the next step is or what I should do... NOTHING.:shakehead

I went down to my local post office (they shipped it USPS), and the Supervisor said they're looking into the situation, but I have not received any communication or assistance from Zebralight for a month.

Screw them. Feel free to share this message anywhere: Zebralight has NO CUSTOMER SERVICE. :scowl: 


-Dean


----------



## pjandyho

Whose fault is it that the light went missing in the mail? What has that got to do with Zebralight?


----------



## varuscelli

Dean, 

The packages that I've had delivered from ZebraLight all had USPS tracking numbers associated with them. Your "Order Shipped" message from ZebraLight should have had a tracking number and if the post office delivered the package to the wrong address or the like, you should be able to sort it out with them. I know that's a pain in the backside, but probably the best starting point. I had the same thing happen with a package from 4Sevens in November and it turned up a a neighbors house two weeks later. But I certainly understand your frustration if there has been a lack of communications...even though I have never experienced anything like that with ZebraLight with my orders from them. I've always gotten responses to my inquiries, so I don't know what to say about that part.


----------



## jazzpilot

pjandyho said:


> Whose fault is it that the light went missing in the mail? What has that got to do with Zebralight?




It speaks to the fact that they are not reliable. This is a relatively straightforward issue: Tell your customer what you are doing to solve the problem. They've already had major issues with back orders (as can be seen earlier in this very thread) and have been relatively non-forthcoming in that regard, too.


Let's make it a hypothetical situation: What if the light failed you for some reason and you wished to invoke your warranty? Is this how you would want to be treated? 


-Dean


----------



## pjandyho

jazzpilot said:


> It speaks to the fact that they are not reliable. This is a relatively straightforward issue: Tell your customer what you are doing to solve the problem. They've already had major issues with back orders (as can be seen earlier in this very thread) and have been relatively non-forthcoming in that regard, too.
> 
> 
> Let's make it a hypothetical situation: What if the light failed you for some reason and you wished to invoke your warranty? Is this how you would want to be treated?
> 
> 
> -Dean


I don't know what the usual practice is like over there, but here in my country, dealers are not held liable for lost shipment once it is out of the shop. Should Zebralight be held responsible for a mistake made by USPS? To me, it is like having Zebralight take the fall for somebody else's mistake. Is that fair? I don't think so. Personally my various experiences with Zebralight has been top notch. They sent me free headband when I asked to buy some spares from them. When there is a problem with both my first run SC600w, they are willing to send me two replacements before I even sent mine in, and on express DHL shipping from China. I offered to pay for shipping cost since I requested for DHL shipping but they declined. In fact, they have done a few more wonders for me but I just couldn't remember them right now. So tell me, is that lousy?

One reason I see them not responding to you could be because you replied them via the email you received from them? That is a no-reply email address. On the email to you there is a link which will take you to their website and it contains your initial email to them and also their reply to you. That is where you are supposed to reply them.

**Edit to add: I don't think Zebralight is having a major issue with back-orders. As with most manufacturers, they don't sell direct to consumers. This is to protect their dealers who are the ones that will support the manufacturer's business and push the products out to their consumers. I don't think I can buy a Nikon camera direct from Nikon could I? You get the drift?

So in Zebralight's case, they allow consumers to buy direct from them, gave us first hand news, allow pre-orders at lower rates than what some dealers are charging and we are complaining about some late orders? I think Zebralight did the right thing by sending their products out to the dealers first even though some of us pre-ordered from Zebralight. This is to ensure their dealers the right in being the first to start selling their products. Ask you a very simple question, would you be willing to purchase all the lights in their line-up? A dealer could do that, but would you? So then why should Zebralight not protect their dealer base first? Any thinking company would do that. It's business sense not to **** off the dealers who are really the ones who would help push your products.


----------



## robostudent5000

i think these posts were posted in the wrong thread. yours is a customer service issue. and has nothing to do with the light itself. you may get more helpful responses if you post in a thread relevant to your situation.



jazzpilot said:


> I am very partisan right now, but I will express my opinion that Zebralight SUCKS, and I will never, ever buy their products again.
> 
> I ordered their H600 at the end of October. I had to inquire as to when they thought it would be shipped, which they told me it was "early December."
> 
> I got notification of it being shipped, then nothing... Now it seems that it's lost in the mail, and *Zebralight hasn't done diddly squat to help me resolve the situation*. I've written them 2 or 3 times to ask them what the next step is or what I should do... NOTHING.:shakehead
> 
> I went down to my local post office (they shipped it USPS), and the Supervisor said they're looking into the situation, but I have not received any communication or assistance from Zebralight for a month.
> 
> Screw them. Feel free to share this message anywhere: Zebralight has NO CUSTOMER SERVICE. :scowl:
> 
> 
> -Dean





jazzpilot said:


> It speaks to the fact that they are not reliable. This is a relatively straightforward issue: Tell your customer what you are doing to solve the problem. They've already had major issues with back orders (as can be seen earlier in this very thread) and have been relatively non-forthcoming in that regard, too.
> 
> 
> Let's make it a hypothetical situation: What if the light failed you for some reason and you wished to invoke your warranty? Is this how you would want to be treated?
> 
> 
> -Dean


----------



## BirdofPrey

Got mine tonight. I like it. I actually like it a lot. However, I will DEFINTELY be adding an H602 when it becomes available. The H60 is a MUCH better light for up close as well as walking somewhere technical. The circle of light just isn't as large as the 60. Now, if walking somewhere open and safe, I'd say this is the better light as the throw is considerable.

I'm nitpicking a bit but thats because I SO love my H60. Biggest question now is, do I wait and get the neutral or stay with the cool. I have to say that while I still prefer the tint of my H60, the H600 is really warm for a supposed "cool" tint light.


----------



## Hotguy003

I got my H600 last week ... But when I turn on turbo mode... After 3 min it step down to H2 mode (170/270 lumen) instead of stay on H1 420lumen..... Testing with 3 different ultrafire 18650 batteries... Any1 have a same problems like mine?.... Tried to contact zebra light on website but havent seen responds yet...


----------



## iron potato

Hotguy003 said:


> I got my H600 last week ... But when I turn on turbo mode... After 3 min it step down to H2 mode (170/270 lumen) instead of stay on H1 420lumen..... Testing with 3 different ultrafire 18650 batteries... Any1 have a same problems like mine?.... Tried to contact zebra light on website but havent seen responds yet...



It stated: -

High: H1 *420*Lm with *750*Lm turbo _in the first 3 min_ (2.3 hrs) or H2 *170*Lm (7 hrs) / *270*Lm (4 hrs) / *420*Lm (2.4 hrs) / 4Hz Strobe 

Hence, your H600 works fine ~


----------



## varuscelli

Hotguy003 said:


> I got my H600 last week ... But when I turn on turbo mode... After 3 min it step down to H2 mode (170/270 lumen) instead of stay on H1 420lumen..... Testing with 3 different ultrafire 18650 batteries... Any1 have a same problems like mine?.... Tried to contact zebra light on website but havent seen responds yet...





iron potato said:


> It stated: -
> 
> High: H1 *420*Lm with *750*Lm turbo _in the first 3 min_ (2.3 hrs) or H2 *170*Lm (7 hrs) / *270*Lm (4 hrs) / *420*Lm (2.4 hrs) / 4Hz Strobe
> 
> Hence, your H600 works fine ~



iron potato, the "in the first 3 min" part refers to the 750 lumen setting (and I realize that part is not crystal clear based on the ZL website description of light output). 

After three minutes (or four minutes in the case of my H600), the drop-off should be to 420 lumens. 

Sounds like (from the description) Hotguy003's light is not doing the right thing if it's dropping off to the H2 setting after three minutes.


----------



## JackJ

*Which cells?*

So I've just ordered an H600, and want some new cells to go along with it. I've got some older AWs, but would like to know if the newer 2900 and 3100s both fit. Are there any factors other than price and capacity to consider? What about other brands like Eagletac and Redilast? In order, my criteria are: compatibility with the H600, safety, capacity/runtime, and finally price. 

Which cells should I buy?


----------



## robostudent5000

*Re: Which cells?*



JackJ said:


> So I've just ordered an H600, and want some new cells to go along with it. I've got some older AWs, but would like to know if the newer 2900 and 3100s both fit. Are there any factors other than price and capacity to consider? What about other brands like Eagletac and Redilast? In order, my criteria are: compatibility with the H600, safety, capacity/runtime, and finally price.
> 
> Which cells should I buy?



http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...00-owners...-battery-issues-Help-me-out-here.


----------



## TedTheLed

*Re: Which cells?*

O M G! I can't believe it.
H600w XM-L 18650 Headlamp Neutral White $89.00	$89.00
Status: *New
Date Opened: *1/4/2012
Department:* Sales
Opened by:* Customer
Last Action Date:* 1/6/2012 7:42:46 PM
User/Date	Message
Customer
1/4/2012 11:44:03 AM	I see the headlamp you owe me is now available, have you shipped my this headlamp?
Need to know as it will replace the headlamp I am returning..
Staff (Administrator)
1/4/2012 9:35:19 PM	Your order was shipped today.

Customer
1/6/2012 7:42:46 PM	I have received the h600w and am sorry to report that it also does NOT STEP DOWN FROM HIGH, it merely goes off, and requires the same tail cap loosening procedure as before.
I do not want either of these lights, which Many people and myself consider defective.

You claimed to have fixed this problem, specifically, but you have not.
How shall we proceed?

*
Subject: H600w XM-L 18650 Headlamp Neutral White $89.00	$89.00

(added) I am getting better results using freshly charged AW batteries. The Ultrafire still make it blink off from high, not to relight without cap screwing..The AW seem to evoke the step down behavior..I need to wait and see how they work when down in capacity, like the Ultrafires..

the Ultrafires that make the h600w blink off work fine in my Eagletac, by the way.


----------



## iron potato

varuscelli said:


> iron potato, the "in the first 3 min" part refers to the 750 lumen setting (and I realize that part is not crystal clear based on the ZL website description of light output).
> 
> After three minutes (or four minutes in the case of my H600), the drop-off should be to 420 lumens.
> 
> Sounds like (from the description) Hotguy003's light is not doing the right thing if it's dropping off to the H2 setting after three minutes.



Sry mate, I dun own any ZL, I just ordered my first ZL headlamp, might be receiving in couple more days I guess, sry for the wrong comment sir


----------



## varuscelli

iron potato said:


> Sry mate, I dun own any ZL, I just ordered my first ZL headlamp, might be receiving in couple more days I guess, sry for the wrong comment sir



No big deal. From the way it's described on the ZebraLight website, the initial drop-off could easily be interpreted in more than one way. As I wrote before, I don't think it's exactly crystal clear on the ZL website. And hey, I'm not even sure whether the original poster is even tracking the thread anymore. I'd kind of like to hear what kind of response he ended up getting from ZebraLight...but I'm assuming they did a standard RMA for him.


----------



## cbthedookie

Perhaps this is old news, but I just saw that the H600w was in stock at zebra light. Just ordered one. I hadn't even seen it as "Pre-order" status previosly; maybe they've taken so much heat for slow product delivery they are revising product approach. I also noticed the dates for to-be-released models are tbd or 2012 with no month shown, fwiw.


----------



## varuscelli

cbthedookie said:


> Perhaps this is old news, but I just saw that the H600w was in stock at zebra light. Just ordered one. I hadn't even seen it as "Pre-order" status previosly; maybe they've taken so much heat for slow product delivery they are revising product approach. I also noticed the dates for to-be-released models are tbd or 2012 with no month shown, fwiw.



I imagine posting in this thread is good, too (for general info)...but another thread was actually started on the H600w being available four or five days ago (which is probably why you didn't notice it). 

ZebraLight H600w

But as I wrote, it's probably good to post here, too.


----------



## TedTheLed

do your H600W 's behave normally with, say, a half-discharged battery?
that is do they still step down when you try to access the highest setting?
I have found mine did not step down with a used ultrafire, but does step down with a freshly charged AW.
I have yet to try it with a half-used AW..perhaps tonight.


----------



## RedForest UK

Are you sure the cutting out completely wasn't the low discharge protection kicking in? Those ultrafires have a lot of voltage sag and could easily drop below the 2.7v cut-off when under heavy load which would happen in max mode.

I think you probably just have a battery problem. Get some Xtar 2600mah cells (or other Sanyo 2600 based cells), if I remember correctly they hold their voltage above 3.0v longer than any other cell on the market at around 2-3A draw.


----------



## spelunkik

Xtar 2600s are pretty long, so be aware that one possibly won't fit in your H600. I was going to buy some of these but chose not to. There is a thread floating around that lists some cells that people were able to fit into the H600. FWIW.


----------



## TedTheLed

RedForest UK said:


> Are you sure the cutting out completely wasn't the low discharge protection kicking in? Those ultrafires have a lot of voltage sag and could easily drop below the 2.7v cut-off when under heavy load which would happen in max mode.
> 
> I think you probably just have a battery problem. Get some Xtar 2600mah cells (or other Sanyo 2600 based cells), if I remember correctly they hold their voltage above 3.0v longer than any other cell on the market at around 2-3A draw.



Thanks for the info, that certainly would explain it. I am still waiting for the AW to run down and see if it acts the same..
..still one would think the program could 'try' a lower setting before blnking off 'forever' ..


----------



## RedForest UK

It could actually be the batteries' PCMs cutting the power out in which case the circuit wouldn't have chance to do anything. I just assumed it was the circuit as it is set at 2.8v (I think). PCM cut-offs can range from 2.5 to 2.8.

If the Xtars won't fit I recommend just ordering some bare Sanyo 2600 (red wrapper) cells from Ric at cnqualitygoods, they are only $6 each and are the same cell used in the Xtar/AW/whatever genuine 2600mah cells, just without the PCM and extra wrapping (so smaller). While protected cells are normally a safer choice, in a light like the zebralight with it's own protection mechanism built in you may as well use unprotected ones.


----------



## robostudent5000

RedForest UK said:


> While protected cells are normally a safer choice, in a light like the zebralight with it's own protection mechanism built in you may as well use unprotected ones.



i agree with this. the risk of over discharge is minimal with a Zebra. as long as the charger you use doesn't over charge, there's no real advantage in using a protected cell.


----------



## goose2283

I've observed the same behaviour on the 740 lumen mode of my Spark SL6 flashlight. In that light, Trustfire 2400s simply haven't got the oomph to push so many lumens. Their protection circuits trip, and you have to loosen and retighten the tailcap.

With Tenergy 2600s, the light behaves much better. No cutting off. I concur with the previous posts, your problem is the cells you're using. The light has no chance whatsoever to step down before the cell just cuts off the power.


----------



## DIΩDΣ

Sounds like the light is outperforming the batteries, kind of like using cheap AA's in 51 and not being able to get high. I'm sure that will cause some havok with customers thinking the light is defective.


----------



## spelunkik

A n00b question for you guys: what happens if you put an overcharged unprotected 18650 in an H600? Would it damage the H600?

I am all for saving money and I would really like to not pay so much more for a protected cell, which is why I ask.


----------



## RedForest UK

Well I wouldn't use a significantly overcharged 18650 cell in anything to be honest, though I doubt you could overcharge one enough to damage the H600's circuit without blowing it up first! Any decent li-ion charger should be capable of charging any li-ion cell to the correct voltage, the PCM of the cell is really just a failsafe.


----------



## Vesper

spelunkik said:


> A n00b question for you guys: what happens if you put an overcharged unprotected 18650 in an H600? Would it damage the H600?
> 
> I am all for saving money and I would really like to not pay so much more for a protected cell, which is why I ask.



It would become damaged in the process of blowing a hole in your forehead. 

The small voltage increase from being overcharged wouldn't likely hurt the light, but it's not safe at all. You should go with protected cells (especially in light of the noob label) and get a really good charger.


----------



## kwak

Agree 100% with the advice against overcharging any cell, certainly not lithium based type.
To be honest even if it was safe to overcharge, it will dramatically reduce the life of the cell, plus as Lithium type cells do not discharge in a linear way it's likely to make very little difference to overall run times.

Don't agree with using only protected cells though.

I have been using unprotected cells in my SC600 for just under 1 year, unprotected cells since i've had my H600 and unprotected cells containing far more energy in my RC vehicles for near on 30 years.


In reality a protected cell is more likely to fail than a non protected cell simply by the fact that a cell is a fairly basic bit of chemistry, start adding these circuits to them and it's more than can go wrong.

If you handle your cells carefully, store them in appropriate containers, use a decent charger and use a torch with a decent low voltage cut-off there is very very little that can go wrong with modern Lithium based cells.


----------



## Cunha

Is there any place to buy these lights outside of zebralight? SC51w and the H600w and the SC600w are all back ordered on their site, whats going on?


----------



## Pacificwing

Cunha said:


> Is there any place to buy these lights outside of zebralight? SC51w and the H600w and the SC600w are all back ordered on their site, whats going on?



I suspect they don't update their website all that frequently. Either that, or they just leave the "backordered" up there as a precaution.

I can only speak from personal experience, but I just ordered an H600 from zebralight (despite the website saying "back ordered") and I got my shipping notice the next day. Your experience may vary.

To answer your initial question, the only other place I'm aware of that would carry this is goinggear.com, but they seem to be out of stock at the moment as well.


----------



## Glock27

Illumination Gear is also a ZebraLight distributor.
http://www.illuminationgear.com/358282.html

G27


----------



## hook63

Glock27 said:


> Illumination Gear is also a ZebraLight distributor.
> http://www.illuminationgear.com/358282.html
> 
> G27


 I bought mine from there and got it yesterday. I can't believe how lite it is. Only gripe is that really needs a clip. Maybe one like the H30 had.


----------



## iron potato

I want H600w :naughty: or should I wait for H602w


----------



## DIΩDΣ

Glock27 said:


> Illumination Gear is also a ZebraLight distributor.
> http://www.illuminationgear.com/358282.html
> 
> G27



I ordered from them too and very fast shipping. Don't foreget they have a CPF member discount. He was a bit suspicious and didnt want to give me the discount at first, when I tried giving him my user name over the phone he couldn't find it (the whole alt-characters probably threw him off) but provided a link to my user profile and all was good.


----------



## finn

Forum hiccup.


----------



## finn

I have seen in this thread that some of the silicone mounts for the h600 include a slot for a third strap. Are the latest h600's being shipped with the updated top-strap-capable mount? I'd like one of these, but a floppy headlamp is a dealbreaker.

Edit:
ruscelli posted this picture... here is what I'm talking about:


----------



## hook63

finn said:


> I have seen in this thread that some of the silicone mounts for the h600 include a slot for a third strap. Are the latest h600's being shipped with the updated top-strap-capable mount? I'd like one of these, but a floppy headlamp is a dealbreaker.


I got mine the other day and it didn't.


----------



## varuscelli

finn said:


> I have seen in this thread that some of the silicone mounts for the h600 include a slot for a third strap. Are the latest h600's being shipped with the updated top-strap-capable mount? I'd like one of these, but a floppy headlamp is a dealbreaker.



I had ordered some extra H600 holders from ZebraLight in early December to experiment with and the ones I got (both black and GITD) had the extra slots.


----------



## cbthedookie

finn said:


> I have seen in this thread that some of the silicone mounts for the h600 include a slot for a third strap.



I ordered my h600w on 1/8 from Zebralight. It came with the third slot in the silicon mount. 

I'm still amazed at how much lighter it is than my sc600w...


----------



## varuscelli

finn said:


> I have seen in this thread that some of the silicone mounts for the h600 include a slot for a third strap. Are the latest h600's being shipped with the updated top-strap-capable mount? I'd like one of these, but a floppy headlamp is a dealbreaker.
> 
> Edit:
> ruscelli posted this picture... here is what I'm talking about:





hook63 said:


> I got mine the other day and it didn't.



hook63: I'm thinking that it's *possible* that you misunderstood the question that was being asked (and my apologies for further questioning, but I just want to be clear). I think you might have thought that finn was asking about the strap itself and not just the slot for the strap. 

Are you sure the rubber mount on yours does NOT have an extra slot for a strap? Not a top strap itself (they don't come with a top strap), but a slot for a strap. 

For clarity sake (the previously posted photo doesn't show it well), here are two photos that show the slot clearly:


----------



## B0wz3r

varuscelli said:


>



Now THAT is a nifty idea!!!


----------



## varuscelli

B0wz3r said:


> Now THAT is a nifty idea!!!



Thanks, B0wz3r. I posted quite a bit more about using the strap on the back of a baseball cap in the ZebraLight Mods thread (both with the H600 and smaller lamps like the H501). This particular cap has a quick-release clip, so it's really easy to use this way. And flipping the cap around and using the holder on the back of the cap basically eliminates the visor-related interference problems that are typically an issue when someone wants to wear a cap and a ZL headlamp on a ZL headband. Take a look at posts 169 and 171 of the ZebraLight Mods thread, if interested.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

Glock27 said:


> Illumination Gear is also a ZebraLight distributor.
> http://www.illuminationgear.com/358282.html
> 
> G27



Just ordered a H600, sweet.


----------



## Pacificwing

When I ordered this light, it said back-ordered; so I was surprised to see the shipping notice the very next day.

It's been five days now, and the tracking number still doesn't work. Should I be worried? I don't mind waiting, but I wouldn't mind being able to track it. Does this have anything to do with the back-order? Do they print the shipping label ahead of time or something?

For those of you shipping to Canada via airmail (presumably from China, although I hear some people say the H600 is shipping out of texas), how long is it taking for your tracking number to kick in?


----------



## varuscelli

Pacificwing, make sure you're going to the right site to insert the tracking number. That Endicia site (or whatever the name) that's linked via hyperlink in the messages might not tell you what you need to know. For instance, for USPS tracking numbers, I do better to copy and paste the tracking number directly in the USPS tracking system at usps.com. 

Are you actually in Canada? Just making sure. If so, my guess is that it's coming from Irving, Texas to your location. Also, the e-mail you received (if it has really shipped) should be titled "Order Shipped" followed by your order number if it was truly a shipping notice. Make sure it was actually an "Order Shipped" notice and not just a "New Order" receipt.


----------



## Pacificwing

varuscelli said:


> Pacificwing, make sure you're going to the right site to insert the tracking number. That Endicia site (or whatever the name) that's linked via hyperlink in the messages might not tell you what you need to know. For instance, for USPS tracking numbers, I do better to copy and paste the tracking number directly in the USPS tracking system at usps.com.



Tried USPS, china post tracking (there seem to be two sites for this), and canada post. I understand once it enters canada customs it shows up on canada post. I've also tried hong kong post for good measure. 



varuscelli said:


> Are you actually in Canada? Just making sure. If so, my guess is that it's coming from Irving, Texas to your location. Also, the e-mail you received (if it has really shipped) should be titled "Order Shipped" followed by your order number if it was truly a shipping notice. Make sure it was actually an "Order Shipped" notice and not just a "New Order" receipt.



Yes, I'm in Canada. The e-mail I got said "order shipped" with an order number. The e-mail included a tracking number.

I'm guessing I just have to wait a little more. It's probably nothing, but every time i've ordered on-line before the tracking has usually kicked in by now.


----------



## varuscelli

Pacificwing said:


> Yes, I'm in Canada. The e-mail I got said "order shipped" with an order number. The e-mail included a tracking number.



Yeah, I've received something like four orders directly from ZebraLight and when I got the "order shipped" e-mail it always showed up in the USPS tracking within about a day. If it's shipping from Texas (which would be my guess), I can't see why it would take so long to appear in the mail tracking system. 

What I'd suggest is doing a direct reply to the Order Shipped message and ask them. The reply should go straight to ZL Customer Service and you should get an answer pretty quickly. Just let them know you're concerned because you can't seem to track the package and my guess is they'll be able to update you.


----------



## TedTheLed

RedForest UK said:


> It could actually be the batteries' PCMs cutting the power out in which case the circuit wouldn't have chance to do anything. I just assumed it was the circuit as it is set at 2.8v (I think). PCM cut-offs can range from 2.5 to 2.8.
> 
> If the Xtars won't fit I recommend just ordering some bare Sanyo 2600 (red wrapper) cells from Ric at cnqualitygoods, they are only $6 each and are the same cell used in the Xtar/AW/whatever genuine 2600mah cells, just without the PCM and extra wrapping (so smaller). While protected cells are normally a safer choice, in a light like the zebralight with it's own protection mechanism built in you may as well use unprotected ones.



..wait a minute, if it's the battery cutting out, then how would turning the tail cap turn it on again, every time? I think this rules out the battery?


----------



## finn

If voltage sags enough on a low-quality chinese battery, the ZL internal protection could trip. The ZL battery cutoff is probably programmed to remain active as long as V>0.


----------



## 127.0.0.1

finn said:


> I have seen in this thread that some of the silicone mounts for the h600 include a slot for a third strap. Are the latest h600's being shipped with the updated top-strap-capable mount? I'd like one of these, but a floppy headlamp is a dealbreaker.
> 
> Edit:
> ruscelli posted this picture... here is what I'm talking about:



I got my H600W today and it does have the added 3rd strap slot. I got it from illuminationgear

they also threw in a Fauxton :laughing:


----------



## Changchung

127.0.0.1 said:


> I got my H600W today and it does have the added 3rd strap slot. I got it from illuminationgear
> 
> they also threw in a Fauxton :laughing:



Hi, how warm look the h600w? Can you post some pics comparing with a cool one? I buy a SD5 but I am not really happy with, I was thinking in replace it for a h600 or a h600w...


----------



## 127.0.0.1

Changchung said:


> Hi, how warm look the h600w? Can you post some pics comparing with a cool one? I buy a SD5 but I am not really happy with, I was thinking in replace it for a h600 or a h600w...



I can't compare it to anything but H501 which is not fair. It is warm, no blue anywhere in the beam. it behaves like any warm rated 600 lumen.
big wall of light, some throw but not as much as a 600 Lumen Klarus XT11. it has an insanely low moon mode which is enough to walk around
a known path at night...you can put your eye up close and look at the emitter in that mode it is so mild.


----------



## B0wz3r

varuscelli said:


> Thanks, B0wz3r. I posted quite a bit more about using the strap on the back of a baseball cap in the ZebraLight Mods thread (both with the H600 and smaller lamps like the H501). This particular cap has a quick-release clip, so it's really easy to use this way. And flipping the cap around and using the holder on the back of the cap basically eliminates the visor-related interference problems that are typically an issue when someone wants to wear a cap and a ZL headlamp on a ZL headband. Take a look at posts 169 and 171 of the ZebraLight Mods thread, if interested.


Thanks for the info! I'll look into it. I personally hate wearing a cap backward but I might make an exception for something like this. Of course, I use my Spark ST5-190nw for cap-on situations, and my H51w for cap-off situations, so it's nice to have excuse to have two headlamps!  My wife's been on a fitness kick the past year and has lost 60 lbs and is now really into running. She's also quite the backyard astronomer, so I bought her one of the H51Fr's for Christmas this year. She uses as a tail light for her bike as well as for astronomy too. So, I sent her a copy of your pic as I thought she might like to try it for running, but she's not much of a hat person... Regardless, I'll have to give this one a try and see how it works for me.


----------



## Glock27

Both my original H600w that came last week and its replacement that came today had the added 3rd strap slot. I hadn't noticed it till I saw the picture...and had to get mine to see.

G27


----------



## varuscelli

B0wz3r said:


> Thanks for the info! I'll look into it. I personally hate wearing a cap backward but I might make an exception for something like this. Of course, I use my Spark ST5-190nw for cap-on situations, and my H51w for cap-off situations, so it's nice to have excuse to have two headlamps!  My wife's been on a fitness kick the past year and has lost 60 lbs and is now really into running. She's also quite the backyard astronomer, so I bought her one of the H51Fr's for Christmas this year. She uses as a tail light for her bike as well as for astronomy too. So, I sent her a copy of your pic as I thought she might like to try it for running, but she's not much of a hat person... Regardless, I'll have to give this one a try and see how it works for me.



Off topic by me, but kudos to your wife. That's inspirational.


----------



## Changchung

127.0.0.1 said:


> I can't compare it to anything but H501 which is not fair. It is warm, no blue anywhere in the beam. it behaves like any warm rated 600 lumen.
> big wall of light, some throw but not as much as a 600 Lumen Klarus XT11. it has an insanely low moon mode which is enough to walk around
> a known path at night...you can put your eye up close and look at the emitter in that mode it is so mild.



Thanks, good info... I think that I am going to spend more money in a zebralight


----------



## finn

Here's another version of a non-floppy h600w. The only problem with this setup is that you need grippier straps to keep the whole setup from sliding around on your head.


----------



## varuscelli

Nice work on that top strap, finn. It looks like from the image that you keep the holder slot to the bottom of the light so that the top strap has some extra "grab" on the body of the light.


----------



## finn

Yeah, I flipped the holder. Then the end of the strap with the sewn tab got looped under and pressed through the slot. The slot holds the tab well enough. By passing it in front of the light, the up/down momentum of the light is converted into torque which opposes the flopping motion.


----------



## varuscelli

The main band can also be re-routed to double back through the side slots, which in itself really helps to reduce bounce. If doing both that and the top strap like you did, I have to guess that any movement of the lamp body would be even further reduced. Using both methods would _really _help. I'll have to try that myself.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

Just got my H600, it's an awesome feeling having 750 lumens shining from your forehead. 

Here's a quick cell video. Sorry, my little dog never shuts up. :laughing:


----------



## B0wz3r

I'm jealous... nice light. I'm still waiting for the W version though.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

B0wz3r said:


> I'm jealous... nice light. I'm still waiting for the W version though.



Thanks! 

The honeymoon is over for me. Pure white tint is where it's at for me. CRI is nice, but over rated IMO.


----------



## varuscelli

B0wz3r said:


> I'm jealous... nice light. I'm still waiting for the W version though.



Did you order an H600w and still waiting for it? Or waiting for them to come back as "in stock" with ZebraLight (or elsewhere)?


----------



## B0wz3r

varuscelli said:


> Did you order an H600w and still waiting for it? Or waiting for them to come back as "in stock" with ZebraLight (or elsewhere)?



V, I've been busy and haven't been keeping up with ZL's stock, and missed them at first. So, now I'm waiting for more of them. And the funds for one too! I honestly don't *need* one, but when has that ever stopped any of us from buying a light we want? :naughty: As for my 'needs', a new headlamp for my bike helmet is at the top of my list, and for that I want something more throwy, so I was planning on getting one of the ST6's instead. Of course, I'll eventually end up with both...


----------



## varuscelli

B0wz3r, 

One interesting thing that I've noticed (I've mentioned this before but haven't noticed anyone else making similar comparison comments...but the length of threads make it difficult to keep up with all comments)...but I have both the SC600 and H600 (but don't have the W versions of either) and it's remarkable to me how similar the beams are between the SC600 and H600. I have to guess that the SC600w and H600w will also be similar, but obviously with slightly lower output. 

I know the SC600 is not considered throwy in a relative sense, but the H600 seems a lot more throwy than I would have suspected for a headlamp. Given that the reflector is so much smaller on the H600, I would have thought that the beams might have been significantly different, but I haven't really tested them against one another at distance (only relatively close up, maybe out to 30-50 feet in my house and yard). 

I still haven't tried H600 on a bike helmet (but have used the SC600 on a helmet and love it), but even if I did try the H600 on a helmet there's still the issue of the drop-off after 3 minutes, and while riding if you really want that 750 lumen setting that drop from 750 lumens to 500 would likely not be something I'd want to see IF the H600 were the only light I had (or H600w, with even lower output). Of course, it could just be run at 500 (H600) or 420 (H600w). 

Your last thread comment reminds me that I need to go ahead and try the H600 while riding my bike, just so I'll know what it does for me in that situation. My currently preferred bike setup is a Klarus XT20 on the handlebar (fantastic for bike riding) and the ZL SC600 on the helmet for looking into turns, etc.


----------



## tony613

varuscelli said:


> (I've mentioned this before but haven't noticed anyone else making similar comparison comments...but the length of threads make it difficult to keep up with all comments)


 +1 to that.


I thought I'd chime in on bicycle and running use. I have the H600W. Last night I used if for a 3-4 mile run with the ZL head strap in its standard configuration. It bounced around only as much as my head did; the light and strap stayed put. Not that I had to but I even changed modes while my gloves were still on and it was quite easy. It was in the mid 30's F. and a bit windy so I was wearing a thin polyester hat. That probably let me make the head strap tighter than without which no doubt helped keep the light still. I've yet to try the Varuscelli technique of threading the head strap differently which I'm sure I will. 

And this is how I use it on my bicycle - light in silicon holder, head and switch mounted toward the center of bike so my hands can control the light and select modes, yet hardly even need to move from a natural riding position, much less make an awkward reach for the switch. And the light can still be rotated up or down. This is a very functional and useful light for me.


----------



## varuscelli

Excellent use, Tony. 

I've been toying with a similar idea but using the DealExtreme version of a TwoFish Bikeblock. Not a lockblock since lockblocks are in the wrong orientation for those who are familiar, but the smaller version of a bikeblock that's sold through DealExteme. They call it a Universal Nylon Mount for Flashlights and Lasers. Cost is about $3 each plus shipping...but if I recall correctly I ordered three of them which kept shipping cost very low compared to just ordering one. 

I'll post a pic of that, too, for comparison (similarity) purposes.


----------



## tony613

> Excellent use, Tony.



Thanks. I'm looking forward to seeing the pics of what you come up with. One idea always leads to others.

When you post them, would you please either put a link to your post (or a copy of the photos) where you show more of how you thread the head strap through the plastic sliding adjustment piece for the "Varuscelli technique"? I could be wrong but I seem to remember your original post with a couple of pictures showing it. I couldn't find them in the "ZebraLight Mods" thread. They may be in the 85+ pages of the SC600 thread, and I don't have the strength to go through them all over again, plus I may set the forum servers on fire (speaking of long threads).


----------



## varuscelli

Tony, the DealExtreme Universal Nylon Mount for Flashlights and Lasers looks like this:






When attached to a bike it looks like this. This one is attached to a a spacebar, but it will attach same way to a bike handlebar.


----------



## varuscelli

tony613 said:


> When you post them, would you please either put a link to your post (or a copy of the photos) where you show more of how you thread the head strap through the plastic sliding adjustment piece for the "Varuscelli technique"? I could be wrong but I seem to remember your original post with a couple of pictures showing it. I couldn't find them in the "ZebraLight Mods" thread. They may be in the 85+ pages of the SC600 thread, and I don't have the strength to go through them all over again, plus I may set the forum servers on fire (speaking of long threads).



I don't actually have a close-up of the routing for this pic. At one point I had posted in image showing the original routing of the ZL strap so that people who messed with it and wanted to put it back how it was could see how it was routed...but I didn't post "loosened" version of this one (if this is the one you mean).


----------



## varuscelli

varuscelli said:


> Excellent use, Tony.
> 
> I've been toying with a similar idea but using the DealExtreme version of a TwoFish Bikeblock. Not a lockblock since lockblocks are in the wrong orientation for those who are familiar, but the smaller version of a bikeblock that's sold through DealExteme. They call it a *Universal Nylon Mount for Flashlights and Lasers*. Cost is about $3 each plus shipping...but if I recall correctly I ordered three of them which kept shipping cost very low compared to just ordering one.
> 
> I'll post a pic of that, too, for comparison (similarity) purposes.



By the way, I looked up the DealExtreme *Universal Nylon Mount for Flashlights and Lasers* and the cost (USD) is $2.06 each with free shipping. Buy three of them and the price drops to $1.57 each with free shipping. You really can't beat a deal like that given how functional and secure these things are, and they seem to provide an excellent way to mount an H600 to a bike handlebar if that's what anyone wants to try.


----------



## tony613

I missed the sliding adjustable piece before - now I see it right there on the left of the silicon holder. And those mounts are very inexpensive, especially with free shipping. There could be lots of uses for them. Thanks.


----------



## varuscelli

Some of the uses shown by the seller for the Universal Nylon Mount for Flashlights and Lasers area hilarious. Attach a flashlight to a flashlight. Attach a battery to a flashlight. Attach a flashlight to your wrist (if you have a wrist with a 1-inch diameter -- I'm still not sure how thet pulled off that photo).


----------



## ciccio90

hi, beamshot to compare the h600 and sc600??? what you think about S6330 /B? idem dimension similar to h600 great for edc or other? thank a lot....i very hot to buy they!


----------



## varuscelli

ciccio90 said:


> hi, beamshot to compare the h600 and sc600???



The only beam shot I have for comparison of the H600 and SC600 was done VERY close to the wall, so the center spot from each light looks much hotter/tighter than in real life when used at a bit of distance, but see post number 315 in our current thread for one example. These light are both significantly floodier than this shot makes them look, even though neither one is a true flood (both lights were only about 18 inches from the wall).


----------



## B0wz3r

Hey guys, thanks for the info. Great hints and advice. 

Right now for bike helmet use I'm leaning toward the Spark because the beamshots I've seen of it seem to indicate it's pretty throwy. For me, that's what I like on a helmet light, because I also use a floodier light on my bars, pointed low, so I've always got light right in front of my wheel. I've found that for me, that's the best combination. I like the idea of the H600(w) on the bars, but with the combo of a helmet mounted light, and one on my bars, I've found I can go with a smaller light with less output on my bars because it doesn't need to go too far. Although, the runtime of an 18650 would be nice too. I've been using my Jet III Pro ST on my helmet, and it throws nicely for that, but I want something brighter. I was tempted to get an SC600w to take it's place, but I find I tend to accidentally bang into stuff because of the extra height on top of my helmet, which is why I wanted to get a dedicated headlamp instead.

I'll definitely keep all this info in mind... I have to pay down my CC before I'll be buying much of anything more for a while, but it's all very helpful. Thanks again. :wave:


----------



## 127.0.0.1

B0wz3r said:


> pay down my CC



what is this sorcery you speak of ? :devil:

Oh wait ain't got time...just saw a light I think I need


----------



## cbthedookie

ciccio90 said:


> hi, beamshot to compare the h600 and sc600???



I have both the SC600w and the H600w; I've not done beamshots with them, but my take: my H600w is substantially more "floody" than the SC600w. Off the cuff, I'd estimate that the hotspot on the H is (maybe?) 20% greater diameter than that on the SC. The SC is a bit more floody than I'd prefer for a flashlight; the H is less floody than I prefer for a headlamp.

That having been said, these are two absolutely fabulous lights. Sometimes you have to step back a bit and instead of obsessing about the slightly green tint (which I don't notice at all in use) or overly (or not quite enough) "floodiness" and appreciate that these are simply supremely useful, relatively affordable marvels.


----------



## B0wz3r

127.0.0.1 said:


> what is this sorcery you speak of ? :devil:
> 
> Oh wait ain't got time...just saw a light I think I need



It's called "my wife will do a Loreena Bobbit on me" if I don't! :huh:


----------



## varuscelli

And she'd light her way with one of your new torches.


----------



## B0wz3r

varuscelli said:


> And she'd light her way with one of your new torches.



No doubt!!!


----------



## spelunkik

WTF????? PLEASE HELP!!

I bought this light for caving. I tried it out on Saturday and it performed perfectly.


I was just now playing with the light and switching through the modes very quickly and disorderly, and now the light is acting all weird. When I short click to go to Turbo, the Turbo kicks on but then it dims and flickers with a weird accompanying sound and then stabilizes.

WTF????? Right now I'm seriously starting to question the reliability of this light!

I am using new solarforce 2400s.


----------



## B0wz3r

spelunkik said:


> WTF????? PLEASE HELP!!
> 
> I bought this light for caving. I tried it out on Saturday and it performed perfectly.
> 
> 
> I was just now playing with the light and switching through the modes very quickly and disorderly, and now the light is acting all weird. When I short click to go to Turbo, the Turbo kicks on but then it dims and flickers with a weird accompanying sound and then stabilizes.
> 
> WTF????? Right now I'm seriously starting to question the reliability of this light!
> 
> I am using new solarforce 2400s.



Start with the following:

1) clean all contacts thoroughly so there's no grease or lube or anything on the end of the battery tube, or the contact point on the inside of the tailcap. ZL's can be finicky that way.

2) make sure your cell is freshly charged. Also, are they protected? you might have a faulty protection circuit in your cell. If you know someone that has a higher end cell, like an AW or a Kallies or RediLast you can try, see if that makes any difference.

3) be patient with the UI. ZL's take a bit of getting used to when you're not familiar with them. They can be picky about the length of time you hold the button down.

One other thing to consider, are you using flat-tops and a magnetic spacer on them? My SC60w acts up when I use a magnetic spacer with a cell in it. Makes the UI go all wonky for some reason. Honestly not sure why. When I first got it, it wouldn't work with any of my 18650 cells (I only have flat top protected 18650's) and used one of the rare earth magnetic spacers. For some reason, no idea why, it started acting up a couple months ago. On a hunch, I pulled the cell out, took the mag-spacer off, and put the cell back in. Light works perfectly now. Again, I haven't the slightest clue why a flat top cell wouldn't work before, but does now, or why the mag-spacer started making it go wonky. Regardless, it works just fine now.


----------



## Matjazz

Can anyone tell me what 7h run time in H2 (170lm) mode means? Does it run for 7h at 170lm or is 7h total run time including automatic stepping down?

Any run time tests coming up?


----------



## spelunkik

B0wz3r said:


> Start with the following:
> 
> 1) clean all contacts thoroughly so there's no grease or lube or anything on the end of the battery tube, or the contact point on the inside of the tailcap. ZL's can be finicky that way.
> 
> 2) make sure your cell is freshly charged. Also, are they protected? you might have a faulty protection circuit in your cell. If you know someone that has a higher end cell, like an AW or a Kallies or RediLast you can try, see if that makes any difference.
> 
> 3) be patient with the UI. ZL's take a bit of getting used to when you're not familiar with them. They can be picky about the length of time you hold the button down.
> 
> One other thing to consider, are you using flat-tops and a magnetic spacer on them? My SC60w acts up when I use a magnetic spacer with a cell in it. Makes the UI go all wonky for some reason. Honestly not sure why. When I first got it, it wouldn't work with any of my 18650 cells (I only have flat top protected 18650's) and used one of the rare earth magnetic spacers. For some reason, no idea why, it started acting up a couple months ago. On a hunch, I pulled the cell out, took the mag-spacer off, and put the cell back in. Light works perfectly now. Again, I haven't the slightest clue why a flat top cell wouldn't work before, but does now, or why the mag-spacer started making it go wonky. Regardless, it works just fine now.



Thanks for your reply. I will try your suggestions when I get home tonight. I suspect the effect I was experiencing is electronic, and I'm hoping it's the solarforce protection circuit instead of the Zebra. I don't know anyone else who owns 18650s, so maybe this is a good excuse to buy a better battery?  

The Zebra is back to operating normally, but maybe that's because I have been switching through modes nice and slowly?

Does anyone else hear a "clicking" when the H600w is strobing? It is syncronous with the strobe frequency. The "chatter" I was hearing when the light flickered on Turbo sounded similar (but slightly louder and drawn out) .


----------



## tony613

spelunkik said:


> Thanks for your reply. I will try your suggestions when I get home tonight. I suspect the effect I was experiencing is electronic, and I'm hoping it's the solarforce protection circuit instead of the Zebra. I don't know anyone else who owns 18650s, so maybe this is a good excuse to buy a better battery?
> 
> The Zebra is back to operating normally, but maybe that's because I have been switching through modes nice and slowly?
> 
> Does anyone else hear a "clicking" when the H600w is strobing? It is syncronous with the strobe frequency. The "chatter" I was hearing when the light flickered on Turbo sounded similar (but slightly louder and drawn out) .



WRT clicking, I can hear a very faint click when the light is strobing, synchronized with the strobe. It is so faint that I need to hold it up to my ear to hear it (for reference my hearing has always been good, and I believe still is). 

WRT batteries, in the H600W I am using an EagleTAC 3100 mAh, protected, button top, 18650. I'm VERY happy with this battery, especially given the price, and it fits inside the light perfectly. I briefly had another H600 with an AW 2900 mAh battery before giving them as gifts. The EagleTAC physically has the same high quality look and feel of the AW (but has a higher capacity than that particular AW) and seems to perform just as well. The battery itself uses Panasonic 3100mAh cells, made in Japan, and is assembled in China so I'm assuming the protection circuitry is added in China as well. I'm also using the XTAR WPA2 II charger and again have been very happy with its performance - battery fits in it perfectly as well. I bought the light, battery, and charger from Illumination Gear. The responses I received from them to my multiple questions and the fast service and shipping were outstanding in my opinion and would absolutely recommend them without hesitation (no affiliation, just a satisfied customer).

By the way, it did seem I was able to confuse the first H600 I had when learning the interface, trying to get it into the second "high mode" (with strobe). I was clicking as fast as I could because I thought I had to do it that way. However I never heard any strange noises, and I could clear up the confusion by keeping the light off for a few seconds, after which it reverted back to normal operation. And I was using the AW battery. I haven't confused my current light but I haven't stressed it in the same way.


----------



## B0wz3r

spelunkik said:


> Thanks for your reply. I will try your suggestions when I get home tonight. I suspect the effect I was experiencing is electronic, and I'm hoping it's the solarforce protection circuit instead of the Zebra. I don't know anyone else who owns 18650s, so maybe this is a good excuse to buy a better battery?
> 
> The Zebra is back to operating normally, but maybe that's because I have been switching through modes nice and slowly?
> 
> Does anyone else hear a "clicking" when the H600w is strobing? It is syncronous with the strobe frequency. The "chatter" I was hearing when the light flickered on Turbo sounded similar (but slightly louder and drawn out) .



No worries; glad to help. The clicking you're hearing is probably the inductor in the driver, which is responsible for supplying current to the emitter and keeping it at a stable level to keep the brightness regulated. I don't have any lights that have inductor noise, but at the same time, my hearing isn't as good as it used to be as I have a bit of tinnitus. If it's quite noticeable, then you might have a driver issue; if it's not too bad, just ignore it and eventually you'll stop hearing it as you'll adapt to it. (Like getting used to the buzz that some fluorescent lights make.) If it really bugs you, see if it also happens on other settings than the strobe, if it does, you may have a bum unit. If it were me, and it is happening only on the strobe setting, I wouldn't sweat it that much because I rarely use strobe modes. YMMV of course.  

As for batteries, all my 18650's are AW protected and I've never had a significant issue with any of them. One of the positive poles did get crunched in a little bit in my old Jetbeam Jet-III Pro ST and have no idea how it happened, but it hasn't harmed the functionality of the battery, and it still works just fine in almost all of my 18650 based lights. The only hassle is that I have to wedge a paper clip in the charger to get it to make contact with the terminal when I want to charge it up. Lighthound and Battery Junction both have good prices on AW cells. 4Sevens and Going Gear charge a few bucks more, but GG has great customer service, so sometimes it's worth it to spend a couple dollars more on a cell so if it doesn't work when you get it you can easily exchange it.


----------



## psychbeat

varuscelli said:


> By the way, I looked up the DealExtreme *Universal Nylon Mount for Flashlights and Lasers* and the cost (USD) is $2.06 each with free shipping. Buy three of them and the price drops to $1.57 each with free shipping. You really can't beat a deal like that given how functional and secure these things are, and they seem to provide an excellent way to mount an H600 to a bike handlebar if that's what anyone wants to try.



thanks for the tip!!

hey are these as soft n floppy as the regular lockblocks?

I had to dip the straps of mine in plasidip to keep them from twisting on my bars
when I landed big drops or jumps. its better now but still shakes and flops with
my cryos equipped C2 more than Id like.

I understand these are positioned 90deg from the regular lockblocks just curious of the 
material etc. - sorry if off topic dudez


----------



## Ian2381

Just Ordered one. Anyone know if its safe to use unprotected cells in this light? I doubt my protected 18650 will fit and Im certain only my AW 2200mah protected cells fit. Im planning to use unprotected Panasonic 3100 and Panasonic IMR.
Thanks


----------



## kwak

Ian2381 said:


> Just Ordered one. Anyone know if its safe to use unprotected cells in this light? I doubt my protected 18650 will fit and Im certain only my AW 2200mah protected cells fit. Im planning to use unprotected Panasonic 3100 and Panasonic IMR.
> Thanks



Yep unprotected cells are fine.


----------



## varuscelli

psychbeat said:


> thanks for the tip!!
> 
> hey are these as soft n floppy as the regular lockblocks?
> 
> I had to dip the straps of mine in plasidip to keep them from twisting on my bars
> when I landed big drops or jumps. its better now but still shakes and flops with
> my cryos equipped C2 more than Id like.
> 
> I understand these are positioned 90deg from the regular lockblocks just curious of the
> material etc. - sorry if off topic dudez



Hey, I think it's on topic because it's about a very useful accessory for the H600. 

As you recognize, DealExtreme mount is made in the same orientation as a TwoFish Bikeblock but sort of 'opposite' of a Lockblock. 

The difference with the DealExtreme mount is that it's slightly smaller than a TwoFish Bikeblock and uses two velcro straps instead of one velcro strap as used on the Bikeblock (the Lockblock uses two velcro straps as well). 

The DealExtreme mount is also made from a slightly harder or less pliable rubber than its TwoFish counterpart. At least, the ones I bought a handful of years back are not quite as flexible as the TwoFish mounts (but who knows, they could have changed the type of rubber they originally used...but mine are the less pliable version). 

The DealExtreme mounts might actually be more prone to slipping because of the less flexible material (seemingly slightly harder/smoother gripping surface...perhaps). At the same time, because of the orientation of the mount to the light to the handlebar (and the smaller size of the H600 in a relative sense), there would be less weight and headlamp body momentum to twist the holder out of place. 

I don't do really hard trail riding, so it's difficult for me to have the same frame of reference you do when doing hard riding and trying to firmly anchor a light onto a handlebar. Fortunately, it's not very expensive to give the DealExtreme mounts a shot, and you could always use the plasti dip method to give them more grip, if needed. 

One cool/useful thing about the DealExtreme mount is the each of its two horseshoe shaped grips is a slightly different size, so it offers slightly more versatility in some ways. 

I'll see if I can grab one of each of those mounts for a photo to show the actual difference in size (especially between the TwoFish Bikeblock and the DealExtreme mount since those are in the same orientation but sized differently).


----------



## coyotehawk

Any word on the streets about when theres gonna be more of these in stock?


----------



## Ian2381

coyotehawk said:


> Any word on the streets about when theres gonna be more of these in stock?



Department: Sales

Subject: Zebralight H600w

It will be in stock next week. 

Sincerely,

Lillian Xu
ZebraLight, Inc.
8320 Sterling Street
Irving, TX 75063


----------



## Ian2381

Ian2381 said:


> Department: Sales
> 
> Subject: Zebralight H600w
> 
> It will be in stock next week.
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Lillian Xu
> ZebraLight, Inc.
> 8320 Sterling Street
> Irving, TX 75063



Update: My order was shipped today. It seems its back on stock again.:thumbsup:


----------



## evgeniy

Are you planned flood version of H600 ?


----------



## varuscelli

evgeniy said:


> Are you planned flood version of H600 ?



I think that would be the H602, which seems to be planned for release sometime in 2012.


----------



## Changchung

I am going to wait for the H602 or the H602w


----------



## evgeniy

Someone tried to make diffuser for more flood light for H600 ?
H600 - unique model, but headlamp, imho, must have flood adapter.


----------



## B0wz3r

evgeniy said:


> Someone tried to make diffuser for more flood light for H600 ?
> H600 - unique model, but headlamp, imho, must have flood adapter.


Get a couple of sheets of DC-fix diffusion film from PhaserBurn. He sells them on the Marketplace for a few bucks each. Best way to convert a beam to flood. It won't give you a pure flood beam like a 501 has, but it will make a significant difference.


----------



## evgeniy

B0wz3r said:


> Get a couple of sheets of DC-fix diffusion film from PhaserBurn. He sells them on the Marketplace for a few bucks each. Best way to convert a beam to flood. It won't give you a pure flood beam like a 501 has, but it will make a significant difference.



Thank you.
Are you tried this method, with PhaserBurn film's ?
This film can be removed without problems ?

Hmm, interest solution (And Zebralight stick film too on internal surface of glass in H51F* )
And I can't stick film too on internal surface of glass , can't disassemble H600, only can stick film on external surface of glass.
But heat dissipation in H600 will be high in modes with 200...400 lm.


----------



## B0wz3r

evgeniy said:


> Thank you.
> Are you tried this method, with PhaserBurn film's ?
> This film can be removed without problems ?



Yep. No significant issues. Taking the film off after having left it on the light for a long time (like, a year) it can sometimes leave a bit of residue from the glue on the lens, but it wipes off easily with some alcohol and a Q-tip. I use it on my H51w because I thought I'd need the ability to be able to convert back and forth between diffused and undiffused, but I've never felt the need to take it off... When I need throw and I'm wearing my headlamp, I use a handheld light that has a throwy beam instead. Works better for me than trying to have my headlamp do it all.


----------



## varuscelli

On a diffuser for the H600, I think something that could be attached and removed at will (slide on/slide off, snap on/snap off, whatever) would be highly desirable. I can easily see using a full-time diffusion film, especially if you're happy with just leaving it on, but it would be neat to see some kind easy on/easy off attachable diffuser as another option.


----------



## robostudent5000

varuscelli said:


> On a diffuser for the H600, I think something that could be attached and removed at will (slide on/slide off, snap on/snap off, whatever) would be highly desirable. I can easily see using a full-time diffusion film, especially if you're happy with just leaving it on, but it would be neat to see some kind easy on/easy off attachable diffuser as another option.



i wonder why no one has tried doing a magnetic snap on diffuser lens, like the magnetic clip on sunglasses they have on some eye glasses frames. seems to me like that wouldn't be that hard to implement and would work okay.


----------



## varuscelli

robostudent5000 said:


> i wonder why no one has tried doing a magnetic snap on diffuser lens, like the magnetic clip on sunglasses they have on some eye glasses frames. seems to me like that wouldn't be that hard to implement and would work okay.



You'd have to be pretty creative about it, though. I mean, given the aluminum body (but there are probably ways it could be done).


----------



## B0wz3r

varuscelli said:


> You'd have to be pretty creative about it, though. I mean, given the aluminum body (but there are probably ways it could be done).


It'd work if the bezel around the lens is steel though... I haven't ever bothered to check though. Not that there still wouldn't be design issues to overcome, but at the very least, that's what'd be necessary for it to even be possible.


----------



## varuscelli

B0wz3r said:


> It'd work if the bezel around the lens is steel though... I haven't ever bothered to check though. Not that there still wouldn't be design issues to overcome, but at the very least, that's what'd be necessary for it to even be possible.



Even the bezel seems to be aluminum. I've tried testing with a really strong neodymium magnet and the only thing it seems attracted to is the battery through the body (I get nothing around the lamp head). 

My thought with a magnet is that you could use either more than one magnet or a thin wire "frame" wrapped around the head and through the head fins so that a magnet could attach to the wire. I have a couple of mini-models sort of floating around in my head, but my deal is I like stuff like that to look neat and tight (like it was really made for the job, not just rigged for the job if you know what I mean). 

All in all, the diffusion film is a lot easier of an idea...


----------



## evgeniy

Changchung said:


> I am going to wait for the H602 or the H602w



http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?309724-XM-L-Color-Separation
"All of the XM-L samples I have tested have the color separation over the viewing axis. "

If it's true - maybe, H502 / 602 with lens (instead on reflector) + XM-L isn't a good idea ?


----------



## robostudent5000

evgeniy said:


> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?309724-XM-L-Color-Separation
> "All of the XM-L samples I have tested have the color separation over the viewing axis. "
> 
> If it's true - maybe, H502 / 602 with lens (instead on reflector) + XM-L isn't a good idea ?



H502/602 should be fine for reasons stated here.


----------



## burntoshine

ordered a H600w this morning. looking forward to using my 2 SC600ws on my mountain bike while having the H600w on my noggin. i guess i'll soon find out how the headband handles my riding.


----------



## evgeniy

What LED's (color bin) Zebralight install to H600w ?
4a, 4b, 4c ?


----------



## spelunkik

Seems my headlamp issue has degenerated into something even worse. My previous flicker problem on Turbo disappeared the day after it occurred, but now my H600w has no low mode. When I hold in the button to cycle through the modes, it goes from medium to turbo to turbo again. In addition, I when I double click it does not change brightness at each level. I swapped batteries to see if it was a battery issue but the problem remains. Immediately before this problem began yesterday, I cycled to medium (I think it was medium) and then the light dimmed and flickered with a faint static sound. Nonplussed, I decided to cycle through modes and discovered I no longer had a low setting and no subsettings on the remaining levels. There is no apparent moisture inside the light, and it has not been dropped or impacted anything.

SUGGESTIONS???


----------



## tony613

In my opinion you have been very patient and diligent, but it sounds like you have a defective light. If it were me I'd contact ZebraLight and get a warranty repair or replacement. 

A couple of years ago I bought a new LiteFlux LF2XT for my dad that was acting strangely right out of the box. Like you I tried various things until I finally had to send it in for servicing. It was definitely defective but since being fixed has been perfect. I tell you this because even though you're now disappointed in the light, and no doubt aggravated that you probably need to ship a light to China to get it fixed, hopefully once you get a working version you will be happy with your purchase. For me the H600W is an extremely versatile light. I bought an H600W for myself and an H600 for my sister. Our working versions are very reliable and we both use them every day. 

Hang in there.


----------



## varuscelli

spelunkik said:


> Seems my headlamp issue has degenerated into something even worse. My previous flicker problem on Turbo disappeared the day after it occurred, but now my H600w has no low mode. When I hold in the button to cycle through the modes, it goes from medium to turbo to turbo again. In addition, I when I double click it does not change brightness at each level. I swapped batteries to see if it was a battery issue but the problem remains. Immediately before this problem began yesterday, I cycled to medium (I think it was medium) and then the light dimmed and flickered with a faint static sound. Nonplussed, I decided to cycle through modes and discovered I no longer had a low setting and no subsettings on the remaining levels. There is no apparent moisture inside the light, and it has not been dropped or impacted anything.
> 
> SUGGESTIONS???



spelunkik, it seems to me (as tony613 suggests) you should contact the seller and arrange a return and exchange (standard RMA). I don't recall seeing who you bought yours from (H600w direct from ZebraLight?). If it was direct from ZebraLight, go to their site and use the Contact Us link to send them a message with a brief description of the problem. They'll issue you an RMA number and you can return it at that point. They have more information on returns here: Returns and Refunds.


----------



## spelunkik

Thanks for the suggestions guys. My plan was to contact Zebralight (since I bought the H600w directly from the website) and ask for a replacement as a last resort. I wasn't sure if I was doing something wrong or if the light was just defective.

I am disappointed to have to go through this process, but I am not at all disatisfied with the light. It performs splendidly and I am looking forward to getting a reliable replacement. My Stenlight friends are very impressed by this light, as am I. I really hope the defective light currently in my possession is not the norm. I will be forming a more unfavorable opinion of Zebralight if my replacement possesses the same issues.

Thanks again.


----------



## tony613

You've got a _great_ attitude. Everyone could take a positive lesson from you. Although it may take some time, I really hope you get a properly working light from which you can form your own honest and accurate opinion. From what I've read ZebraLight stands behind their products and seems to resolve issues. With the expense of these lights, knowing that fact was one of the reasons I choose this flashlight - from this company. If I have a problem I want someone to fix it. 

Let us know how it works out for you.


----------



## B0wz3r

spelunkik said:


> Thanks for the suggestions guys. My plan was to contact Zebralight (since I bought the H600w directly from the website) and ask for a replacement as a last resort. I wasn't sure if I was doing something wrong or if the light was just defective.
> 
> I am disappointed to have to go through this process, but I am not at all disatisfied with the light. It performs splendidly and I am looking forward to getting a reliable replacement. My Stenlight friends are very impressed by this light, as am I. I really hope the defective light currently in my possession is not the norm. I will be forming a more unfavorable opinion of Zebralight if my replacement possesses the same issues.
> 
> Thanks again.



Spee... sorry you're having problems with your light. I feel a bit responsible, as I gave you a strong recommendation for a ZL.

That said, I agree with tony613; you're going about this just the way you should, and it certainly seems like you may have a unit with a bum switch. Don't be put off by a small and vocal group of ZL haters here; all flashlight companies have QC issues with their lights. I've been fortunate that I've only ever had one minor issue with a ZL, my SC60w, that was easily solved on my own, but I've had issues with Quarks, Jetbeams, an EagleTac, etc. I think that the nature of who we are as a user base makes us more demanding, and critical, when a light fails on us, than the general public. There always seems to be bugs in the first run of a new light from any company, not just ZL.

Contact ZL and let them know about your issue. They should give you and RMA and send you a replacement right away. Your replacement shouldn't have any issues.

As an interesting anecdote about my SC60w, I bought it last fall even though the SC600 was available, because I wanted something smaller for pocket EDC, and wanted to get one before they were discontinued and out of stock. I ordered the light from Going Gear despite paying a bit more for it, because they have awesome CS. Anyway, I got the first light, put a freshly charge AW P2900 18650 in it, and... no light. Nothing. Cleaned the contacts, checked the spring, checked the cell, etc. No light. Emailed GG for an RMA; they gave me one, I returned the light, and had the replacement in less than a week. Put my new AW 2900 in it and... no light. At first I was kind of PO'd. But then, I realized that the chances of me getting two bum lights in a row was pretty slim, so I sat down and thought about it, did some reading on the light here on CPF, and discovered some posts saying the SC60w doesn't work with flat top cells. A-ha! I put a small rare earth magnet spacer on the positive pole of the cell, dropped it in the light, and viola! Perfect function. Definitely a user error issue!!! 

Now it gets weird. A couple months ago, I take the light out to clip in my pocket to go out for a night hike. I pull it out on the trail and the UI is all wonky. Won't properly change modes, skips low in the press and hold sequence, long delays on press and hold, etc. At first I'm kinda PO'd... I'm thinking great, my first problem with a ZL and now I'm going to have to try and get it warrantied, etc. Remembering my first experience with the light, that I had a mag-spacer on the positive pole of the cell, and that magnets can play havoc with electrical circuits, I tried an experiment; pull the cell out, take the mag-spacer off, put it back in and presto! Problem solved. Light now works perfectly again. Now, I have no idea why it wouldn't work with a flat top cell at first, or why the mag-spacer suddenly started messing with the UI of the light, but it works fine now, and I've not had a single issue with it since. 

Moral of the story; there's a lot of voodoo in this as well, not just science. Different models of the same light vary, so it always pays to be patient and try to figure out what's going on. A lot of times, you can solve an issue just by taking your time, experimenting, and getting advice.


----------



## varuscelli

Another aspect to this is that flashlights and headlamps are becoming ever more complex, and with the increased complexity comes more possibility for glitches or outright failure. Higher levels of complexity lead to higher costs, higher costs lead to higher expectations by the customer...and it just keeps spiraling. 

It's like B0wz3r says in that most every manufacturer our there has problems with a certain percentage of their lights...but boy, do people tend to get a bit miffed (not all people, but some) when something goes wrong with theirs. Because people who have problems with their lights tend to report or talk about those problems (and those who don't, don't), that alone makes it seems like failure rates are higher than they really are. 

I think the best a person can do is be patient and move on to the next step. To me, one failure is easy to forgive. Multiple failures in a product line (if experienced directly by me) are entirely different. With ZebraLight, I have purchased four units (three for me, one as a gift), including an H600, and the worst problem I had was with an H501w that had a tailcap that needed what I considered somewhat excessive tightening to work initially, but even that worked itself out quickly.


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## spelunkik

I took your guys' suggestion and went through the website to request a replacement after describing what I assumed was obviously a defective light. In an interesting twist to this frustrating saga, I received a reply this morning:

"You have to use high quality batteries such as the Panasonic NCR18650 or batteries with that cell in it (e.g. AW2900)."

Okay, there are a few alarms going off for me right now. First, if the light is not compatible with cells other than "high quality batteries," why is this not stated on the website? What Zebralight has just told me is that I've wasted money on two 18650s that do not work with the light, an expense they could have easily prevented. Second, Zebralight gives me no clear definition of what a "high quality battery" is. If I buy a Redilast 2600 or something other than an AW2900 and my H600w does not work, Zebralight can just say I am still not using a "high quality battery." Third, if my current cells are the issue and not the light itself, why is it that I had perfect performance for a significant period of time using both cells, then randomly my light does not work properly and exhibits the same problem using either cell?

I am going to take a deep breath on this one and buy a "high quality cell." I am not going to buy anything other than a NCR18650 or AW2900 because if the light will still misbehave than Zebralight can say it is my fault. As a matter of fact, I am going to buy a NCR18650 that way if the light does not work correctly Zebralight can't blame it on a faulty protection circuit within the 18650 I'm using.

To be honest, I have been looking for a legitimate reason to spend money on a high performance cell. I guess now I have one. Also, I must admit if I were Zebralight I'd be telling a customer like myself the same thing: eliminate all other potential points of failure before replacing a costly product. I sure hope this solves my problem, but I have my doubts at the moment...

I'll keep you guys informed. Hopefully it's a battery issue. If it is, I hope everyone can learn from my experience and know that only certain cells are compatible with the H600w so that they don't waste money on inappropriate cells either.


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## kwak

For the flickering i could agree very slightly with ZL, but for the having no low problem there is absolutely no way on this earth that's anything to do with batteries.

They're blowing smoke as far as i'm concerned.

Saying that though it IS wise to have better quality cells, so it's not really a bad thing to have some even if they are not the problem.


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## Changchung

I cant believe that Zebra lights have to be used with high quality batteries... Their must make a real good test before the lights are send to the costumers...


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## varuscelli

Changchung said:


> I cant believe that Zebra lights have to be used with high quality batteries... Their must make a real good test before the lights are send to the costumers...



I suspect that any battery issue is with only those ZebraLight units that run on 18650 batteries, and there are quite a few other 18650 lights from other manufacturers that do not perform well without good quality 18650 batteries...or with 18650 batteries that are too short or too long, etc. I'm not trying to defend this particular ZebraLight case with the H600 (spelunkik could very well just have a defective lamp), but the battery quality issue is not an issue associated with only ZebraLight.


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## kwak

Changchung said:


> I cant believe that Zebra lights have to be used with high quality batteries... Their must make a real good test before the lights are send to the costumers...



As varuscelli said it's hardly a ZL only problem.

These new generation of lights are drawing a fair bit of current on the highest settings, the simple fact of the matter is some cheaper protected cells are not able to supply the current needed.

My TK21 and TK70 are exactly the same.

It's like buying a Porsche, fitting wooden wheels then complaining that Porsche "must make a real good test before the lights are send to the costumers..."


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## RedForest UK

I recommend you get yourself some of the 3100mah cells, they are also Panasonic NCR18650 but a little newer and a little higher capacity. Callies Kustoms does the best value protected versions for the US right now (they're literally the same as the Redilast and supposedly slightly better made than the AWs).

However, I also strongly doubt not being able to get low mode is a battery problem..


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## evgeniy

What color bin of XM-L LEDs Zebralight install in H600w ?


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## varuscelli

evgeniy said:


> What color bin of XM-L LEDs Zebralight install in H600w ?



evgeniy, I might be wrong about this but I'm not sure the regular forum members here necessarily have access to that information...unless a ZebraLight forum member wants to let us know. 

You could always use the Contact Us form on the ZebraLight site and ask them directly.


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## Kalsu

I am sorry if this has been asked before. There is a ton of information in this thread and a lack of time on my part to read it all. 

My question is this: I just ordered an H600w (and Sc600w). I was looking to buy some new 3100mah 18650 batteries from Callies Kustoms. I was wondering if the flat top batteries would work (in either light)? I see they now have button top batteries as well but the specs they have for the length show them being to long for the lights. I currently have been using the 2900 mah AW batteries and have been happy with them. I just wanted to try the Callies Custom batteries after hearing good thing about them here. Thanks for the input.


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## burntoshine

just got my H600w today. i am quite pleased! nice throw; really good for bicycling, in my opinion. i rode through a field by my house with it on over a wool hat. i only rode for about 5 minutes, but i'm happy with the way it handles so far. i must take it through the woods to see how it does. i'm using two SC600w's on the handlebars, too. good stuff


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## tony613

wade11a said:


> I am sorry if this has been asked before. There is a ton of information in this thread and a lack of time on my part to read it all.
> 
> My question is this: I just ordered an H600w (and Sc600w). I was looking to buy some new 3100mah 18650 batteries from Callies Kustoms...
> 
> ...Thanks for the input.



Wade11a, while you're waiting for someone to respond about Callies Kustoms, I thought I'd give you some input regarding another 3100 mAh battery (I cannot speak to Callies Kustoms). 

(I posted some of this a few pages back in this long thread.) I am using an EagleTAC 3100 mAh, protected, button top, 18650. I'm VERY happy with this battery, especially given the price, and it fits inside the light perfectly. I briefly had another H600 with an AW 2900 mAh battery before giving them as gifts. The EagleTAC physically has the same high quality look and feel of the AW and seems to perform just as well. The AW and EagleTAC even look almost identical (same colors, same external packaging over the protection circuitry), but the EagleTAC was less expensive and has a higher capacity.

Physical differences: The AW is flat and smooth on top (positive side) and has 3 small bumps on the bottom (negative side) to facilitate multiple batteries in series. In contrast, the EagleTAC has a button top (positive side) which facilitates multiple batteries in series and is flat and smooth on the bottom (negative side). Also, the EagleTAC advertises "Shortest ultra high cap 18650 ever made ... True protrude button top design, fits all flashlights". (hopefully it's OK to post a link to a product/information page. If not, mods, please delete link with my apologies.) While I can't speak to "all flashlights", I can say it fits nicely in the H600/H600W.

The EagleTAC battery itself is a Panasonic 3100mAh cell, is made in Japan, and is assembled in China so I'm assuming the protection circuitry is added in China as well. I have not run the battery down to depletion but I have used it for 30 minutes at a time between medium and high while on a few 4 mile runs. I didn't pay close attention to how long it took to recharge (with an XTAR WP2 II - dual bay) but I think it was under an hour each time. I charge the battery just about every day. One thing I noticed about the battery/light is that the spring on the tail cap of the light has scratched the bottom of the battery in a circular pattern, while unscrewing and replacing the tail cap to charge the battery. This has nothing at all to do with the battery or its quality, rather the spring in the tail cap. I believe it would have happened to any battery. I'm just mentioning it for full disclosure. 

The battery, charger, and light were all purchased at IlluminationGear. I know you didn't ask about this brand of battery or vendors; I just thought I'd give an additional opinion and real world experience. I'm completely satisfied with the battery, charger, and light, and the service I received from IlluminationGear was top notch.


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## Kalsu

Thanks for the information. I had just ran across that brand in my searchings and was curious about them. I am currently using the AW 2900 mah batteries and have had good luck with them. Looking to get a can few more cells drove me to do some research and discover these those two brands. I will have to look into the Eagletac brand. Thanks.

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk


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## kwak

tony613,

Great post on the Eagletac cells i'd not even heard of those before, but now they do seem to have a lot in their favour.
I opened your link to order a few to try but quickly stopped when i saw that the seller charge the cells and send them out FULLY CHARGED!!!!!!!!

I've been buying and using lithium based cells well over 10 years and this is the first time i've come across a seller irresponsible and plain stupid enough to send fully charged lithium cells out in the post.

Not only is it dangerous it also means your receiving cells with a reduced life as as soon as a lithium based cell is charged it degrades, the higher the charge the quicker it degrades.
No worries if we are talking days, but who's to know if they weren't charged 6 months ago.

I'm still eager to try these cells but will not buy from this seller, do you know any other sellers please?


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## 127.0.0.1

wade11a said:


> Thanks for the information. I had just ran across that brand in my searchings and was curious about them. I am currently using the AW 2900 mah batteries and have had good luck with them. Looking to get a can few more cells drove me to do some research and discover these those two brands. I will have to look into the Eagletac brand. Thanks.
> 
> Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk



I got eagletac protected 18650 after reading the reviews. the over-drain protection circuit on eagletac consistently cut the batt off
at 20%. others just let the battery drain way out. the rest of the over-charge protection circuits worked the same on most all batteries.
eagletac won me over after that round of testing on depletion.


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## tony613

Thanks kwak. 

The EagleTac-usa site sells them but I don't know about international shipping or costs (to Greece?). The non-US EagleTac site lists worldwide dealers, some of which may be more cost effective to your shipping address. 

Also, you could get in touch with Tod at illuminationGear. He was very easy to work with so you may be able to ask for batteries that have not yet been charged to be sent to you if that is your preference. If by chance all of his batteries are already charged you may have to wait for him to receive a new shipment.


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## Kalsu

I just ordered a pair of the Eagle Tac 18650's from going gear. Good price plus the CPF discount.

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk


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## BirdofPrey

Personally love my 2400 Eagletacs. However they won't fit width of my Zebralight headlamps. So, hopefully this ill solve my problems. 


Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk


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## kwak

tony613 said:


> Thanks kwak.
> 
> The EagleTac-usa site sells them but I don't know about international shipping or costs (to Greece?). The non-US EagleTac site lists worldwide dealers, some of which may be more cost effective to your shipping address.
> 
> Also, you could get in touch with Tod at illuminationGear. He was very easy to work with so you may be able to ask for batteries that have not yet been charged to be sent to you if that is your preference. If by chance all of his batteries are already charged you may have to wait for him to receive a new shipment.[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> Thank you.


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## lebox97

wow, in 7 years of selling to CPF'rs we have never been called "irresponsible and stupid" before. 

Perhaps "topped up" would be better term? Some other vendors do this as well. 
We have been topping up li-ion's for 3 years and you are the first to make a negative comment about it.
These cells are topped up as a convenience to our customers - right before shipping - not weeks or months ahead of time. (these ET 3100's were not even available until 6-8 weeks ago)

As the cells are individually wrapped and protected, and only sold a handful or less at a time (not in bulk) - we have not given any additional thought about wether being shipped at 3.7v vs 4.1+volts would make a huge difference.

We have exchanged emails with some of the Li-Ion reviewers on CPF just now - and they don't seem to see a problem either? 
But, perhaps this would be a good topic for a thread in the Batteries Included forum?

I do certainly understand your concern, and I will take this constructive criticism and re-evaluate our position on this.

... 
now returning back to the H600 channel

Cheers
Tod



kwak said:


> tony613,
> 
> Great post on the Eagletac cells i'd not even heard of those before, but now they do seem to have a lot in their favour.
> I opened your link to order a few to try but quickly stopped when i saw that the seller charge the cells and send them out FULLY CHARGED!!!!!!!!
> 
> I've been buying and using lithium based cells well over 10 years and this is the first time i've come across a seller irresponsible and plain stupid enough to send fully charged lithium cells out in the post.
> 
> Not only is it dangerous it also means your receiving cells with a reduced life as as soon as a lithium based cell is charged it degrades, the higher the charge the quicker it degrades.
> No worries if we are talking days, but who's to know if they weren't charged 6 months ago.
> 
> I'm still eager to try these cells but will not buy from this seller, do you know any other sellers please?


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## Kalsu

I got my H600w in the mail (from Zebralight) Wed. and used it all night at work. WOW!! I can't believe how bright that light is. The H2 mode is set to the 146 lm setting. For what I am using the headlamp for the H2 setting is about perfect and a 7 hour run time is awesome!

It isn't noticeably heavier (to me anyway) than my H51. I use a headlamp every night at work and sometimes will go through 2 batteries (enloops) on my H51 a night. I used the H600w all night and barely even put a dent in the 18650. It is an awesome light and goes well with the SC600w that I also carry at work.


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## v0idware.prohibited

evgeniy said:


> Are you planned flood version of H600 ?



They actually are planning a flood version of the H600, the H600F. Lillian Xu told me that it will be released next month and have a "somewhat diffused beam patten"

I'm not sure what "somewhat" implies, but I am guessing that the F in H600F stands for flood or frosted.


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## B0wz3r

v0idware.prohibited said:


> They actually are planning a flood version of the H600, the H600F. Lillian Xu told me that it will be released next month and have a "somewhat diffused beam patten"
> 
> I'm not sure what "somewhat" implies, but I am guessing that the F in H600F stands for flood or frosted.


Yep, the F models use a frosted lens in them instead of being full flood, like the older headlamps.


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## varuscelli

Hmmmm.

OK, talk of H600f aside (one that doesn't seem to show up on the ZebraLight Future Products list yet), I was under the rough impression that the H602 (and H602w) was the projected flood lamp for their 18650 headlamps (the H602/H602w actually being listed on the Future Products list). 

Perhaps the H600f is seen as an "easier to implement" version that just hasn't been placed on the Future Products listing yet.


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## Changchung

wade11a said:


> I just ordered a pair of the Eagle Tac 18650's from going gear. Good price plus the CPF discount.
> 
> Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk



Excuse me for the offtopic, can you let me know what is the CPF discount word? 

Thanks




SFMI4UT


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## Kalsu

Changchung said:


> Excuse me for the offtopic, can you let me know what is the CPF discount word?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> SFMI4UT






Here is a link:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?181841-quot-CPF-Specials-quot-webpages-dealers


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## varuscelli

Changchung said:


> Excuse me for the offtopic, can you let me know what is the CPF discount word?



Changchung, I would have imagined that you would have this CPF Marketplace reference point available already, but here it is just in case. The standard CPF discount code for Going Gear is in that list. 

"CPF Specials" webpages/dealers


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## v0idware.prohibited

wade11a said:


> I just ordered a pair of the Eagle Tac 18650's from going gear. Good price plus the CPF discount.


Which ones did you purchase? Did you have to modify your H600 to get those to fit? The protected 3100 mAh are 1mm too long, I thought maybe cutting the spring shorter would get them to fit but I'm unsure about the width.


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## Kalsu

v0idware.prohibited said:


> Which ones did you purchase? Did you have to modify your H600 to get those to fit? The protected 3100 mAh are 1mm too long, I thought maybe cutting the spring shorter would get them to fit but I'm unsure about the width.



I got the batteries yesterday (Eagletac 3100 mah button top) and they fit into my H600w without any modifications. No worries with the length or width. They handled the turbo mode great to.


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## B0wz3r

varuscelli said:


> Hmmmm.
> 
> OK, talk of H600f aside (one that doesn't seem to show up on the ZebraLight Future Products list yet), I was under the rough impression that the H602 (and H602w) was the projected flood lamp for their 18650 headlamps (the H602/H602w actually being listed on the Future Products list).
> 
> Perhaps the H600f is seen as an "easier to implement" version that just hasn't been placed on the Future Products listing yet.



I personally don't have a need for a floody 18650 based headlamp. The AA models I have suit my needs for that just fine. For biking though, I would like an 18650 based headlamp, but prefer throw for helmet mounting. I'm still suspicious that an H600w would be too floody for that, so have been considering a Spark ST6-460nw instead.


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## Kalsu

B0wz3r said:


> I personally don't have a need for a floody 18650 based headlamp. The AA models I have suit my needs for that just fine. For biking though, I would like an 18650 based headlamp, but prefer throw for helmet mounting. I'm still suspicious that an H600w would be too floody for that, so have been considering a Spark ST6-460nw instead.



I have a Spark ST-460NW and a ZebraLight H600w. The Spark is nice but it is a lot heavier than the ZebraLight. The ZebraLight has a lot more brightness setting options than the Spark. Both lights have very similar tints. The Spark does have a slightly more defined hot spot where the ZebraLight seems to "blend" a little more. I personally prefer the ZebraLight. I think that the spark may out throw the ZebraLight a little (I will check later when it gets good and dark here) but the added weight and lack of brightness settings (not to mention being able to customize the H2 setting on the ZebraLight) makes the ZebraLight H600w my go to headlamp.


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## Changchung

Thanks for the link guys... I did not have it...


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## B0wz3r

wade11a said:


> I have a Spark ST-460NW and a ZebraLight H600w. The Spark is nice but it is a lot heavier than the ZebraLight. The ZebraLight has a lot more brightness setting options than the Spark. Both lights have very similar tints. The Spark does have a slightly more defined hot spot where the ZebraLight seems to "blend" a little more. I personally prefer the ZebraLight. I think that the spark may out throw the ZebraLight a little (I will check later when it gets good and dark here) but the added weight and lack of brightness settings (not to mention being able to customize the H2 setting on the ZebraLight) makes the ZebraLight H600w my go to headlamp.


Thanks for the info. For me the weight might be an issue, but multiple levels aren't. I think the Spark will have enough levels, and for biking, I tend only tend to use two or three different settings at most. I mount my H51w under my visor for close-up off-bike lighting instead of using my main helmet light, which I use just while riding. I'm leaning toward the Spark because of the T shaped body design and the ability to swap out the clear for the frosted lens. Overall, still undecided though.


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## evgeniy

v0idware.prohibited said:


> They actually are planning a flood version of the H600, the H600F. Lillian Xu told me that it will be released next month and have a "somewhat diffused beam patten"



Good news.

Frosted lens or lens with matt film, as in some H51F ?
================

Does it make sense to use protected AW 18650 in Zebralight H600 ?


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## v0idware.prohibited

evgeniy said:


> Good news. Frosted lens or lens with matt film, as in some H51F ?


I couldn't say. I was emailing her to ask about flood headlamps using an 18650 and she replied that the H600F would be out next month. Beyond that I don't know anything.


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## B0wz3r

evgeniy said:


> Does it make sense to use protected AW 18650 in Zebralight H600 ?



It _*always*_ makes sense to use protected cells. I've had nothing but good luck with AW's, and so far it's all I've used. Eventually I'll get some RediLasts or Kallie's, but I'm good on 18650's for now.


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## DIΩDΣ

B0wz3r said:


> It _*always*_ makes sense to use protected cells. I've had nothing but good luck with AW's, and so far it's all I've used. Eventually I'll get some RediLasts or Kallie's, but I'm good on 18650's for now.



Thought I remember some folks having trouble with the highest power setting drawing so much as to trip the protection on some cells?


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## tony613

DIΩDΣ;3875653 said:


> Thought I remember some folks having trouble with the highest power setting drawing so much as to trip the protection on some cells?



That could be but for what it's worth, I'm using EagleTac 3100 mAh protected cells in the H600W. I've used the combination on turbo beyond the point that the step down kicked in (the 'lower' high, not the battery low voltage protection circuit), and I've used the light on a combination of medium and high for 30-40 continuous minutes. I can report that with this cell the protection circuitry has not been tripped. Keep in mind this battery is a Panasonic and the whole battery package wrapping the cell seems to be very good quality. Other cells no doubt will vary.


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## varuscelli

varuscelli said:


> Hmmmm.
> 
> OK, talk of H600f aside (one that doesn't seem to show up on the ZebraLight Future Products list yet), I was under the rough impression that the H602 (and H602w) was the projected flood lamp for their 18650 headlamps (the H602/H602w actually being listed on the Future Products list).
> 
> Perhaps the H600f is seen as an "easier to implement" version that just hasn't been placed on the Future Products listing yet.





B0wz3r said:


> I personally don't have a need for a floody 18650 based headlamp. The AA models I have suit my needs for that just fine. For biking though, I would like an 18650 based headlamp, but prefer throw for helmet mounting. I'm still suspicious that an H600w would be too floody for that, so have been considering a Spark ST6-460nw instead.



B0wz3r, I feel kind of strange even saying this, but your reply seems to have almost nothing to do with the statements you quoted from me, so I'm a bit confused about the connection you're seeing between what I wrote and what you wrote. I dunno, maybe you meant to quote someone else's post. I mean, I can see what you wrote as a set of standalone statements, but not a response to my musings about the H600f versus H602. It seems to me that the the H600f will just be floody (based on diffusion) while the H602 will be a true flood (not relying on diffusion)

But to make a point about what you wrote about biking, I can't think of ANY true flood headlamp (or even pseudo-flood based on diffusion -- "floody" as ZebraLight labels them) that would be useful for biking, unless bike speed was kept to an extremely slow pace...so I think that none of the yet-to-be-released ZebraLight 18650 flood lamps (or "floody" lamps) would be practical as bike lights. 

If anyone were considering the H600 versus H600w (neither of which are floods nor floody based on the way ZebraLight uses the terminology), as a helmet light for biking, I'd choose the H600 over the H600w just by virtue of having more output on the higher levels (tint aside). But I'd recommend one of those only if the user were comfortable with using the High level as opposed to Turbo for output. In my opinion, any light/headlamp that has a timed drop down in output from Turbo to High after only a few minutes is too much of a hassle as a bike-related light, UNLESS the High mode is adequate to meet the needs of the rider. Yeah, you can always run it in Turbo, wait for it to drop to High, then click it back to Turbo -- but what a pain to keep having to do that every few minutes while riding. But if you can get by on the High mode, you can get quite a long run time from the H600/H600w, so for some folks it might be practical.


----------



## B0wz3r

Sorry, it's just me being scatterbrained.  Never mind! 

[Barbrady]
Move along people! Nothing to see here!
[/Barbrady]



varuscelli said:


> B0wz3r, I feel kind of strange even saying this, but your reply seems to have almost nothing to do with the statements you quoted from me, so I'm a bit confused about the connection you're seeing between what I wrote and what you wrote. I dunno, maybe you meant to quote someone else's post. I mean, I can see what you wrote as a set of standalone statements, but not a response to my musings about the H600f versus H602. It seems to me that the the H600f will just be floody (based on diffusion) while the H602 will be a true flood (not relying on diffusion)
> 
> But to make a point about what you wrote about biking, I can't think of ANY true flood headlamp (or even pseudo-flood based on diffusion -- "floody" as ZebraLight labels them) that would be useful for biking, unless bike speed was kept to an extremely slow pace...so I think that none of the yet-to-be-released ZebraLight 18650 flood lamps (or "floody" lamps) would be practical as bike lights.
> 
> If anyone were considering the H600 versus H600w (neither of which are floods nor floody based on the way ZebraLight uses the terminology), as a helmet light for biking, I'd choose the H600 over the H600w just by virtue of having more output on the higher levels (tint aside). But I'd recommend one of those only if the user were comfortable with using the High level as opposed to Turbo for output. In my opinion, any light/headlamp that has a timed drop down in output from Turbo to High after only a few minutes is too much of a hassle as a bike-related light, UNLESS the High mode is adequate to meet the needs of the rider. Yeah, you can always run it in Turbo, wait for it to drop to High, then click it back to Turbo -- but what a pain to keep having to do that every few minutes while riding. But if you can get by on the High mode, you can get quite a long run time from the H600/H600w, so for some folks it might be practical.


----------



## varuscelli

B0wz3r said:


> Sorry, it's just me being scatterbrained.  Never mind!



Yeah, sorry. I was just scratching my head a little bit for the connection. No biggie.


----------



## B0wz3r

varuscelli said:


> Yeah, sorry. I was just scratching my head a little bit for the connection. No biggie.



Just free associating really... got stuck in a "Freud moment"! LOL!


----------



## Changchung

I was thinking in wait for the flood version, but another member toll me that is I buy the H600 I can install some scotch film to the glass and make it flood... Know my concern is the tint... How warn or neutral is the W version??? Can some one post some white wall shoots to make clear my final decision???


----------



## evgeniy

>>" Can some one post some white wall shoots to make clear my final decision???"

On _any_ photo you will see result of processing, and white tint depends from "white balance" settings.
With WB set to "daylight" (6500K) result from H600 will be white , from H600w - white-yellow.
With WB set to 4000-4500K result from H600w will be white , from H600 - white-green-blue. 

For example, SC51 - with WB="daylight" http://www.terrasvet.com.ua/uploads/tests-beamshots/50-sm-beamshots/sc51f.jpg 
SC51w - http://www.terrasvet.com.ua/uploads/tests-beamshots/50-sm-beamshots/sc51fw.jpg

But with corrected WB you will see clear white on photo from "W" LEDs.


----------



## Changchung

evgeniy said:


> >>" Can some one post some white wall shoots to make clear my final decision???"
> 
> On _any_ photo you will see result of processing, and white tint depends from "white balance" settings.
> With WB set to "daylight" (6500K) result from H600 will be white , from H600w - white-yellow.
> With WB set to 4000-4500K result from H600w will be white , from H600 - white-green-blue.
> 
> For example, SC51 - with WB="daylight" http://www.terrasvet.com.ua/uploads/tests-beamshots/50-sm-beamshots/sc51f.jpg
> SC51w - http://www.terrasvet.com.ua/uploads/tests-beamshots/50-sm-beamshots/sc51fw.jpg
> 
> But with corrected WB you will see clear white on photo from "W" LEDs.



Thanks, but I think that this warm tint is too warm for me, I think that a perfect tint for me will be a neutral, maybe something close to 5300K


----------



## Changchung

Sorry, double post...


----------



## evgeniy

Changchung said:


> Thanks, but I think that this warm tint is too warm for me, I think that a perfect tint for me will be a neutral, maybe something close to 5300K




Unfortunately, Zebralight produce lights only with ~~6300 and ~~4200K LEDs.
Some users on CPF modify Spark's and install any requested LED to ST5/ST6/SD6. May be, you need this service.
======
I also love ~~5000 - 5500K light , but current models on Zebra and Fenix not use this tint.


----------



## Changchung

evgeniy said:


> Unfortunately, Zebralight produce lights only with ~~6300 and ~~4200K LEDs.
> Some users on CPF modify Spark's and install any requested LED to ST5/ST6/SD6. May be, you need this service.
> ======
> I also love ~~5000 - 5500K light , but current models on Zebra and Fenix not use this tint.



I have a SD6 and a neutral xm-l led, but the pcb is to big and I dont want to damage it trying to take the led off to the original pcb...


SFMI4UT


----------



## Ian2381

I Just received my H600w today and I'm really happy with it. It seems this light could fit any protected 18650 batts as even my XTAR 18700 fits(Bought some AWs for this light).
Can't wait to use it on my next Climb.


----------



## my_crib_too

I used my ZebraLight H600 for the first time last night walking my dog in a very dark area. I like the light but it's more floody than I thought it would be. Great construction and the dog loves the extra light. 

bruce...


----------



## surferraven

I'm trying to decide if I should get the h600w or the Spark ST-6 460NW. I've searched high and low and can't find any beam shots of the h600w. I'd like to see how it looks compared to the Spark. Is it more floody with less throw? I like how you can change the Spark to flood with the diffuser lens. I suppose I could use some film on the h600 if needed. I'd just like to see how it looks out of the box. Does anyone who has one have an outdoor shot of the beam?


----------



## Ian2381

Ian2381 said:


> I Just received my H600w today and I'm really happy with it. It seems this light could fit any protected 18650 batts as even my XTAR 18700 fits(Bought some AWs for this light).
> Can't wait to use it on my next Climb.



I would just like to correct my post, Some of my very thick 18650 batteries won't fit, it just happen some of my XTAR 18700 2600mah fits(Red lettering) and some doesn't(violet lettering).
It doesn't matter though as Im going to use my AWs.:thumbsup:


----------



## spelunkik

spelunkik said:


> I took your guys' suggestion and went through the website to request a replacement after describing what I assumed was obviously a defective light. In an interesting twist to this frustrating saga, I received a reply this morning:
> 
> "You have to use high quality batteries such as the Panasonic NCR18650 or batteries with that cell in it (e.g. AW2900)."
> 
> Okay, there are a few alarms going off for me right now. First, if the light is not compatible with cells other than "high quality batteries," why is this not stated on the website? What Zebralight has just told me is that I've wasted money on two 18650s that do not work with the light, an expense they could have easily prevented. Second, Zebralight gives me no clear definition of what a "high quality battery" is. If I buy a Redilast 2600 or something other than an AW2900 and my H600w does not work, Zebralight can just say I am still not using a "high quality battery." Third, if my current cells are the issue and not the light itself, why is it that I had perfect performance for a significant period of time using both cells, then randomly my light does not work properly and exhibits the same problem using either cell?
> 
> I am going to take a deep breath on this one and buy a "high quality cell." I am not going to buy anything other than a NCR18650 or AW2900 because if the light will still misbehave than Zebralight can say it is my fault. As a matter of fact, I am going to buy a NCR18650 that way if the light does not work correctly Zebralight can't blame it on a faulty protection circuit within the 18650 I'm using.
> 
> To be honest, I have been looking for a legitimate reason to spend money on a high performance cell. I guess now I have one. Also, I must admit if I were Zebralight I'd be telling a customer like myself the same thing: eliminate all other potential points of failure before replacing a costly product. I sure hope this solves my problem, but I have my doubts at the moment...
> 
> I'll keep you guys informed. Hopefully it's a battery issue. If it is, I hope everyone can learn from my experience and know that only certain cells are compatible with the H600w so that they don't waste money on inappropriate cells either.



Well, the Panasonic NCR18650a I ordered finally arrived on Monday of last week. I popped it into my headlamp, and it was no surprise that my light's issues were still present. 

Some additional symptoms I discovered while waiting for the NCR battery: the light made a high-pitched noise on turbo that continued to get higher in pitch (it sounded like it was going to blow up), the turbo mode would not shut off after 3 minutes, and the light turned off with no warning once the battery became drained enough. I discovered this last one while deep in a cave... not cool at all. 

It took me a couple of tries through Zebralight's website to get an RMA #, but I finally did and sent it out last Saturday. I'm looking forward to a properly functioning light.

It is weird that my light worked fine for over a week, then randomly acquired problems. Looking at the internal design, I wonder what would happen if you put a too-long battery in the H600 and really tried to fully tighten the tailcap? The ciruit board doesn't really look reinforced, and I can't help but think it's possible that you could crush that board if you really tried. I am convinced this is not what happened in my case since I always used the same battery, but I wonder just the same...


----------



## B0wz3r

spelunkik said:


> Well, the Panasonic NCR18650a I ordered finally arrived on Monday of last week. I popped it into my headlamp, and it was no surprise that my light's issues were still present.
> 
> Some additional symptoms I discovered while waiting for the NCR battery: the light made a high-pitched noise on turbo that continued to get higher in pitch (it sounded like it was going to blow up), the turbo mode would not shut off after 3 minutes, and the light turned off with no warning once the battery became drained enough. I discovered this last one while deep in a cave... not cool at all.
> 
> It took me a couple of tries through Zebralight's website to get an RMA #, but I finally did and sent it out last Saturday. I'm looking forward to a properly functioning light.
> 
> It is weird that my light worked fine for over a week, then randomly acquired problems. Looking at the internal design, I wonder what would happen if you put a too-long battery in the H600 and really tried to fully tighten the tailcap? The ciruit board doesn't really look reinforced, and I can't help but think it's possible that you could crush that board if you really tried. I am convinced this is not what happened in my case since I always used the same battery, but I wonder just the same...


Hard to say. I've had some unusual behavior from my SC60w. When I first got it, it wouldn't work with any of my flat top AW cells, so I bought some of those little rare earth magnet spacers to make a button on the positive pole. Worked fine for a few months and then one day I go to turn it on and the UI has gone all wonky on me. Wouldn't properly cycle through the modes with press and hold, wouldn't correctly switch sub-levels with a double click, etc. As a hunch, I took the magnet spacer out and put the batter back in. It now works fine with a flat top cell. I have no idea why it didn't before or what changed, or why the magnet didn't affect it before but now does. Fortunately the light still works fine for me.


----------



## OpenTrackRacer

Just pulled the trigger on a H600 from IlluminationGear. I figured for mine exploring, the extra lumens would be better than the warmer color. Besides, all my other lights are cool white already so they'll all more or less match for light painting.

Thanks for all the comments in this thread, they were very useful!


----------



## spelunkik

B0wz3r said:


> Hard to say. I've had some unusual behavior from my SC60w. When I first got it, it wouldn't work with any of my flat top AW cells, so I bought some of those little rare earth magnet spacers to make a button on the positive pole. Worked fine for a few months and then one day I go to turn it on and the UI has gone all wonky on me. Wouldn't properly cycle through the modes with press and hold, wouldn't correctly switch sub-levels with a double click, etc. As a hunch, I took the magnet spacer out and put the batter back in. It now works fine with a flat top cell. I have no idea why it didn't before or what changed, or why the magnet didn't affect it before but now does. Fortunately the light still works fine for me.



Haha, that sounds as "wonky" as mine was. Glad to hear the problem corrected itself, albeit in a mysterious fashion. "Them crazy electronics... a million durn things ta go wrong, and no one knows how to fix 'em!!" 



OpenTrackRacer said:


> Just pulled the trigger on a H600 from IlluminationGear. I figured for mine exploring, the extra lumens would be better than the warmer color. Besides, all my other lights are cool white already so they'll all more or less match for light painting.
> 
> Thanks for all the comments in this thread, they were very useful!



OpenTrackRacer, I have been caving with cool whites for years. The cool tint never bothered me until I started caving with those who had neutral tint lights. It was frustrating to see their lights render up-close objects so beautifully, and then for me to look at the same thing as if I were looking through a boring, blue filter. Still, it didn't bother me much, most of the time. However, when I finally decided to pull my own trigger on a H600, I went for the neutral version because I didn't want to be jealous of another caver's tint anymore. Most of my motivation behind getting an H600 was to make other cavers jealous, and it simply wouldn't do to still have the issue of being jealous of neutral tint lights.  I'm very happy I chose neutral, because now everything seems more realistic... less hostile even. I find myself enjoying the underground views more. Also, you wouldn't believe the psychological difference it makes for me when I'm underground, especially in particularly wet/cold environments. Inhospitable is now somehow less inhospitable. Really, *really* cold is now just really cold. Of course, it's quite possible I'm just crazy.  Anyway, yes, a cool white will reach a little farther than a neutral, but keep in mind that the H600 isn't much of a thrower anyway. I can see far, but... I always wish I could see farther. That's an H600 issue though, not a CCT issue. I would like to see in person the difference between an H600 and H600w underground, but I'm almost certain I'd still prefer the H600w. There, that's my two cents for the day...


----------



## OpenTrackRacer

Yeah, I may end up regretting my choice but I'm so used to cool while LED lights at this point that I don't think it'll matter. All my lights (TrustFire H3, SSC P7, TR-J12, custom headlamps and backup lights) are cool white and I'm an ace at working out the proper while balance for pictures by now. I wouldn't even have gotten the H600 except my neck and shoulder has been bothering me. My standard helmet rig has proven to be too heavy lately so I've been forced to use my backup which has a H3 and a generic 75 lumen AA light. The H3 is great but the beam is too much of a flood for seeing any distance at all. The H600 should do the trick for both and I always have the handheld photon hoses for the real distance stuff.Taking underground this weekend (along with the TR-J12) for the first time so we'll see!



spelunkik said:


> OpenTrackRacer, I have been caving with cool whites for years. The cool tint never bothered me until I started caving with those who had neutral tint lights. It was frustrating to see their lights render up-close objects so beautifully, and then for me to look at the same thing as if I were looking through a boring, blue filter. Still, it didn't bother me much, most of the time. However, when I finally decided to pull my own trigger on a H600, I went for the neutral version because I didn't want to be jealous of another caver's tint anymore. Most of my motivation behind getting an H600 was to make other cavers jealous, and it simply wouldn't do to still have the issue of being jealous of neutral tint lights.  I'm very happy I chose neutral, because now everything seems more realistic... less hostile even. I find myself enjoying the underground views more. Also, you wouldn't believe the psychological difference it makes for me when I'm underground, especially in particularly wet/cold environments. Inhospitable is now somehow less inhospitable. Really, *really* cold is now just really cold. Of course, it's quite possible I'm just crazy.  Anyway, yes, a cool white will reach a little farther than a neutral, but keep in mind that the H600 isn't much of a thrower anyway. I can see far, but... I always wish I could see farther. That's an H600 issue though, not a CCT issue. I would like to see in person the difference between an H600 and H600w underground, but I'm almost certain I'd still prefer the H600w. There, that's my two cents for the day...


----------



## B0wz3r

Last summer, when I was caving up at Lava Beds with my son, we went on a guided explore through one of the tubes there. The NFS ranger who lead it had one of those big and bulky traditional cavers headlamps on her helmet. I think it was one of those carbon ones, but I'm not sure. I had my Spark ST5-190nw on my helmet, and my H51w as backup in my pack. She was amazed at how bright it was for its size at first, and didn't realize it was an LED because of its tint. When I told her what it was, she got a little snobby about it not being an incan though... :shakehead Although it was only my first time for any real caving, I already knew more about lights than she did. I guess it's like any other activity though, were you've got "purists" who insist on traditional equipment and look down their noses at anything that isn't like what they approve of, and the iconoclasts who don't give a smurf about such things... I guess that puts me in the latter of the two groups!


----------



## evgeniy

Hi

I received my H600w and checked color temp. of installed xm-l by my colorimeter Spyder2pro.few measurements, from 4030 to 4220K. 
Result : 4100 +-100K. 
Very good result for declared 4200K !


----------



## TEEJ

The warmer version does render colors better....even if the lumens are lower, the detail rendering is better. I use lights for forensic investigations, so the tints that provide the best details are the ones I go with. When I do disaster response, depending on the function, either tint can work, but if you are in a triage situation for example, and people need to judge wounds, etc...there is a clear preference for more natural lighting.


----------



## jk42

Just got my H600w. Very impressive. And now I'm waiting for a SC600w... 

Pity there's no clip included, had to roll my own. Here's my take, which should look _very_ bad to Zebralight's eyes... 
Maybe they'll come up with an official one after seeing _THIS._ :devil:






Donor: Quark 1232​ Turbo "X", where it was absolutely useless.
Grips the H600 very tightly, but does not provide quite as much spring force as on a Quark.
The light can be attached to the normal head band without removing the clip.
I find the setup very useful (and pretty enough).

-- 
jk


----------



## Changchung

surferraven said:


> I'm trying to decide if I should get the h600w or the Spark ST-6 460NW. I've searched high and low and can't find any beam shots of the h600w. I'd like to see how it looks compared to the Spark. Is it more floody with less throw? I like how you can change the Spark to flood with the diffuser lens. I suppose I could use some film on the h600 if needed. I'd just like to see how it looks out of the box. Does anyone who has one have an outdoor shot of the beam?



In cpfmarketplace, Craig, from Illumination Supply post a compare pics of the two models, I buy the W version, is not to warn for my taste...


SFMI4UT


----------



## v0idware.prohibited

varuscelli said:


> Hmmmm.
> 
> OK, talk of H600f aside (one that doesn't seem to show up on the ZebraLight Future Products list yet), I was under the rough impression that the H602 (and H602w) was the projected flood lamp for their 18650 headlamps (the H602/H602w actually being listed on the Future Products list).
> 
> Perhaps the H600f is seen as an "easier to implement" version that just hasn't been placed on the Future Products listing yet.


 I think the future products list isn't all that reliable.


----------



## witness

I'm a newb looking for a good wilderness headlamp and stumbled on this. Just for laffs I ordered the H600. Can anyone tell me the best battery (brand) and charger to get for this to get the longest run time?


----------



## Changchung

witness said:


> I'm a newb looking for a good wilderness headlamp and stumbled on this. Just for laffs I ordered the H600. Can anyone tell me the best battery (brand) and charger to get for this to get the longest run time?



Hi, welcome to the Zebra adiction... I just buy 4 panasonic 3100 protected, the best ones tested by HKJ are from intl-outdoor 3100 panasonic with pcb protection. I just buy as well a i4 V2 charger, this is for sale in 25$ in the cpf market place. I dont know if this one is the best, but is a new model.


SFMI4UT


----------



## B0wz3r

witness said:


> I'm a newb looking for a good wilderness headlamp and stumbled on this. Just for laffs I ordered the H600. Can anyone tell me the best battery (brand) and charger to get for this to get the longest run time?


You can't go wrong with anything from AW, RediLast, or Kallie's Kustoms. All great cells. I suggest you get the Pila li-ion charger for your 18650's. Best consumer level li-ion charger on the market right now.


----------



## 127.0.0.1

h600w as bike light ?

I race CX and MTB and have been using the h600w as backup when I go out with no lights and end
up in the dark 'cuz I am out longer than expected. anyhow, bombing trails in the big ring the h600w is
plenty of light, better than a NiteRider trinewt. it has enough throw for hammering above lactate threshold
in the woods believe me

and it does not ever bounce off angle, the COG is neutral... it stays put wherever you aim it


----------



## tony613

witness said:


> I'm a newb looking for a good wilderness headlamp and stumbled on this. Just for laffs I ordered the H600. Can anyone tell me the best battery (brand) and charger to get for this to get the longest run time?



Hey Witness,

I posted the following in another thread regarding batteries. 




tony613 said:


> I am using an EagleTAC 3100 mAh, protected, button top, 18650. I'm VERY happy with this battery, especially given the price, and it fits inside the light perfectly. I briefly had another H600 with an AW 2900 mAh battery before giving them as gifts. The EagleTAC physically has the same high quality look and feel of the AW and seems to perform just as well. The AW and EagleTAC even look almost identical (same colors, same external packaging over the protection circuitry), but the EagleTAC was less expensive and has a higher capacity.
> 
> Physical differences: The AW is flat and smooth on top (positive side) and has 3 small bumps on the bottom (negative side) to facilitate multiple batteries in series. In contrast, the EagleTAC has a button top (positive side) which facilitates multiple batteries in series and is flat and smooth on the bottom (negative side). Also, the EagleTAC advertises "Shortest ultra high cap 18650 ever made ... True protrude button top design, fits all flashlights". While I can't speak to "all flashlights", I can say it fits nicely in the H600/H600W.
> 
> The EagleTAC battery itself is a Panasonic 3100mAh cell, is made in Japan, and is assembled in China so I'm assuming the protection circuitry is added in China as well. I have not run the battery down to depletion but I have used it for 30 minutes at a time between medium and high while on a few 4 mile runs. I didn't pay close attention to how long it took to recharge (with an XTAR WP2 II - dual bay) but I think it was under an hour each time. I charge the battery just about every day. One thing I noticed about the battery/light is that the spring on the tail cap of the light has scratched the bottom of the battery in a circular pattern, while unscrewing and replacing the tail cap to charge the battery. This has nothing at all to do with the battery or its quality, rather the spring in the tail cap. I believe it would have happened to any battery. I'm just mentioning it for full disclosure.
> 
> The battery, charger, and light were all purchased at IlluminationGear. I know you didn't ask about this brand of battery or vendors; I just thought I'd give an additional opinion and real world experience. I'm completely satisfied with the battery, charger, and light, and the service I received from IlluminationGear was top notch.


----------



## tony613

Double post - deleted.


----------



## Vernon

I got my H600wf today, but I have to return it. There's a loud rattle coming from inside the sealed head. Dang.


----------



## Changchung

Vernon said:


> I got my H600wf today, but I have to return it. There's a loud rattle coming from inside the sealed head. Dang.



What a bad thing... Like something loss inside? 

I always ask to my self why they never test the lights before shipping


SFMI4UT


----------



## B0wz3r

127.0.0.1 said:


> h600w as bike light ?
> 
> I race CX and MTB and have been using the h600w as backup when I go out with no lights and end
> up in the dark 'cuz I am out longer than expected. anyhow, bombing trails in the big ring the h600w is
> plenty of light, better than a NiteRider trinewt. it has enough throw for hammering above lactate threshold
> in the woods believe me
> 
> and it does not ever bounce off angle, the COG is neutral... it stays put wherever you aim it


I love blowing NiteRider systems away with my LED flashlights on my handlebars... and the icing on the cake is seeing people's jaws hit the dirt when I tell them I paid about a third of what they did for their overpriced NR system!


----------



## 127.0.0.1

B0wz3r said:


> I love blowing NiteRider systems away with my LED flashlights on my handlebars... and the icing on the cake is seeing people's jaws hit the dirt when I tell them I paid about a third of what they did for their overpriced NR system!



yup. I thought NiteRider was the best. (I have owned 5 systems and currently own 2) as they are excellent for non-flashaholics who do not want to worry about the light system, it will just work great. many reasons are positives (connectors, *race support,* protected battery packs...the list goes on how good they are) but when you seriously investigate other options, you can find equal or better stuff far cheaper. niterider does have the largest retail footprint and excellent support, those are real positives for racers at-large....

I won't buy another niterider, I will keep using them, and when they are no good to run any more, I'll use
something else I already have like handlebar mounted Liion flashlight in combo with zebralight headlamp,
or gut the niterider and upgrade the emitters and cells.


----------



## Vernon

Changchung said:


> What a bad thing... Like something loss inside?
> 
> I always ask to my self why they never test the lights before shipping
> 
> 
> SFMI4UT




Yeah, it's so loud that I'm surprised it wasn't caught before shipped. Oh well, ZL replied today and will ship a new one my way once I return this. I can be patient, I guess.


----------



## B0wz3r

127.0.0.1 said:


> yup. I thought NiteRider was the best. (I have owned 5 systems and currently own 2) as they are excellent for non-flashaholics who do not want to worry about the light system, it will just work great. many reasons are positives (connectors, *race support,* protected battery packs...the list goes on how good they are) but when you seriously investigate other options, you can find equal or better stuff far cheaper. niterider does have the largest retail footprint and excellent support, those are real positives for racers at-large....
> 
> I won't buy another niterider, I will keep using them, and when they are no good to run any more, I'll use
> something else I already have like handlebar mounted Liion flashlight in combo with zebralight headlamp,
> or gut the niterider and upgrade the emitters and cells.


One experience I had with NiteRider is that they won't say what emitters they use in their products, or their actual output characteristics. They say "XXX Lumens", but won't say what standard they use, if it's OTF or at the emitter, etc. That really cheeses me off. They're obviously unwilling to try and compete on specifications, so it leads me to believe they're not using the most recent (and pricey) emitters as a way of cutting costs. Their systems are well designed, I will give them that, but I long ago stopped having any needs for a light system for my bike that uses and external battery pack, or that is permanently mounted. My flashlights / headlamps and some two-fish blocks do everything I need more compactly and less expensively.


----------



## petr9999

I have donut in the hotspot, not a dealbreaker, but visible, is this normal? (h600w)

thanks in advance!!







Close up:


----------



## varuscelli

petr9999 said:


> I have donut in the hotspot, not a dealbreaker, but visible, is this normal? (h600w)
> 
> thanks in advance!!



Mine has something like that, too -- but I don't ever notice it in real use (just when doing the white wall thing).


----------



## petr9999

yea its ok in realife use, but none of my other flashlights have this problem (sunwayman v10r TI+, fenix tk41, xeno E03, olight A3), and it is not mentioned in the reviews, so i just wanted to make sure its normal..


----------



## pounder

yep mine has that too..never see it though when it's being used as others have said..


----------



## ostrograd

Vernon said:


> I got my H600wf today, but I have to return it. There's a loud rattle coming from inside the sealed head. Dang.



If you've gotten your replacement yet, is it free of the rattle? I happened to get an H600Fw today and there's definitely something loose bumping around inside the head. Maybe it's the same one you just returned  Seems to work fine though...

The frosted front lens does help to smooth out the color shift between the hotspot and the outer edge of the beam, so I'm happy with it except for that worrisome rattle.


----------



## varuscelli

ostrograd said:


> If you've gotten your replacement yet, is it free of the rattle? I happened to get an H600Fw today and there's definitely something loose bumping around inside the head. Maybe it's the same one you just returned  Seems to work fine though...



Well, hell! I've had my H600Fw for a couple of weeks now, and it's got something loose (rattling) in the head area, too. I guess I've never just shaken it around before. If I shake it, I hear a rattle. If I place a finger on the lens and shake it, I hear no rattle. Could it be the reflector? I don't think the lens is moving, but if I press on the lens, no rattle.


----------



## ostrograd

varuscelli said:


> If I shake it, I hear a rattle. If I place a finger on the lens and shake it, I hear no rattle. Could it be the reflector?



That seems a good guess. I just tested mine and it's the same: pressing lightly on the lens makes the rattle go away temporarily.


----------



## d4n1

H600w, I love it.It's the best flashlight I have. The tint is perfect for me.


----------



## eh4

Wasn't there a thread where someone replaced a ZL lens? I seem to recall that there was a step in the process where the metal bezel ring was simply pressed into the light body to secure the new lens. Is it possible that with all the flashaholics clamoring for the _600 series that a press got miscalibrated and simply isn't pressing the bezels in far enough?
Not to plant dangerous thoughts, the solution is clearly to report it to ZL and get your light replaced, but has anyone with a shaking sound defect checked for beam pattern changes between shakes, and further out on the limb... tried (carefully, like with a press) pressing the bezel ring down further to see if that stops it?


----------



## daniel10

Hi im thinking to buy one of these lights. I know that probably there is a lot of threads that talk about it, but the ultrafire 3000mah are good batteries for this light? The aw models are too expensive in my country 

Regards from portugal
Daniel


----------



## iron potato

daniel10 said:


> Hi im thinking to buy one of these lights. I know that probably there is a lot of threads that talk about it, but the ultrafire 3000mah are good batteries for this light? The aw models are too expensive in my country
> 
> Regards from portugal
> Daniel



Try not to get those XXXFire brand battery if can, sometimes its depends on luck on those :shakehead

Those reputable branded batteries are more expensive, but it is safer & more reliable.

I use my H600 with 3100mAh Panasonic NCR18650A, which is a non-protected 18650 

Speaking of battery, get a decent battery charger as well, I have got chargers from Xtar, so far so good :thumbsup:


----------



## Changchung

Sound crazy... But after reading this I try a trustfire 2400mah in my h600w last night and work just fine... Of course, it is a lottery... 

Because I want the best batteries for this light I order some 3100 panasonic and some 3000 samsung...

Do the same...


SFMI4UT


----------



## daniel10

Those will fit and work fine on h600w? http://my.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=MyeBayWatching&ssPageName=STRK:ME:LNLK:MEWAX


----------



## Changchung

daniel10 said:


> Hi im thinking to buy one of these lights. I know that probably there is a lot of threads that talk about it, but the ultrafire 3000mah are good batteries for this light? The aw models are too expensive in my country
> 
> Regards from portugal
> Daniel



Try to find it in ebay, is not so important that they be protected...

Or you can try some china supplier, I know that intl-outdoor had the 3100 panasonic in good price, free shipp if you buy more than 3...

DX as well...


SFMI4UT


----------



## Changchung

daniel10 said:


> Those will fit and work fine on h600w?
> 
> Try to not post links to others sites like ebay here in the forum, anyway the link was wrong...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SFMI4UT


----------



## daniel10

Hmm ok sorry. The link was a pack of 2 panasonic ncr18650 3100, but i dont know if those are fake ones..


----------



## TyJo

removed


----------



## ToyTank

Vernon said:


> Yeah, it's so loud that I'm surprised it wasn't caught before shipped. Oh well, ZL replied today and will ship a new one my way once I return this. I can be patient, I guess.



Wow... Did you look inside the battery tube or was there any sign of damage? Did they cover your return shipping? 

Good Luck!


----------



## Vernon

ToyTank said:


> Wow... Did you look inside the battery tube or was there any sign of damage? Did they cover your return shipping?
> 
> Good Luck!



I got the second new one Saturday, and it's perfect. I paid $7 in shipping for the first return (rattle), which still baffles me that ZL doesn't have a standard process to cover shipping when it has to be returned due to their error. However, after asking, they were kind enough to send the second new one with a return shipping label to cover the second and final shipping. 

By the way, there was no sign of damage at all. The rattle seemed to come from inside the sealed head.


----------



## varuscelli

Vernon said:


> I got the second new one Saturday, and it's perfect. I paid $7 in shipping for the first return (rattle), which still baffles me that ZL doesn't have a standard process to cover shipping when it has to be returned due to their error. However, after asking, they were kind enough to send the second new one with a return shipping label to cover the second and final shipping.
> 
> By the way, there was no sign of damage at all. The rattle seemed to come from inside the sealed head.



Vernon, just to make sure -- since you're posting this in the H600 / H600w thread -- you're talking about the *H600Fw* that you ordered that had the rattling sound, right? And they've replaced that H600Fw with one that has no rattling sound, correct?


----------



## NVGuide

Just recieved my SC600 and cant wait for my H600 to come in.

Question--what concerns are there to using 2- 123 primarys other than runtime?


----------



## a_b

A nice small review ZebraLight H600w in Russian forum:
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?t=10017

Water inside head (foto&video)
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?p=162703#post162703

Zebraligt support says: "It's normal in somewhat humid environment."


----------



## Richard Costin

Hi all!

I have only had my h600 a short while, but really like it.

It has already been dropped, soaked knocked and still works great and the output:size ratio is amazing.
Bear in mind I am somewhat new to this arena (decent torches) though 
Using AW 18650 3100 MAh Rechargeable Lithium Batteries with it at the mo.

Cheers,
Rich.


----------



## davidt1

My need for light have changed a bit since I started helping out in a car repair shop. My H51w is not bright enough. I bought a Lighthound tactical light that is crazy bright with 14500 battery. However, it is not nearly as versatile as the angled H51w.

Now I am hooked on li-on battery and seriously consider getting a H600. I don't care for the turbo mode that steps after 5 minutes. Is there a way to disable the turbo mode?

The lack of a clip is also a concern for me, as that would limit the versatility of the light. I have heard that the H51 clip fits the H600. Can someone confirm this? 

Thank you.


----------



## Mooreshire

davidt1 said:


> I don't care for the turbo mode that steps after 5 minutes. Is there a way to disable the turbo mode?



...there isn't exactly a way to disable it... but you can set the 2nd "high" mode to 450 lumen and only use that. There is not a way to access the turbo output level without the step-down present though. Once you've got the 450 setting in the main cycle, it'll be remembered and you would double click to get to turbo and back if you wanted.

I am also curious about the compatibility of the H51 clip.


----------



## davidt1

Mooreshire said:


> ...there isn't exactly a way to disable it... but you can set the 2nd "high" mode to 450 lumen and only use that. There is not a way to access the turbo output level without the step-down present though. Once you've got the 450 setting in the main cycle, it'll be remembered and you would double click to get to turbo and back if you wanted.
> 
> I am also curious about the compatibility of the H51 clip.



Thanks for the info. Just to understand this clearly, once the 450 setting is set as the main high, the quick press from off turns the light on at 450 right?


----------



## tony613

davidt1 said:


> Thanks for the info. Just to understand this clearly, once the 450 setting is set as the main high, the quick press from off turns the light on at 450 right?



Yes, you have it right, and just as Mooreshire stated.

Paraphrasing from the product page, there are 4 main levels (High 1 and 2, Medium and Low), and each main level has two sub-levels. Your current selection of sub-level is memorized when the light is turned off and through battery changes. Strobe mode is never selected from off but always requires a double click from H2. 

Also, in H1, the second sub-level for the cool white version has 420 lumens while the neutral white has 361 lumens. I tell you that because you are already using the H51W (neutral white) and your preference may be for a neutral so I wanted to be sure you knew. 

One last thing: If you haven't already chosen an 18650 battery and compatible charger, I very highly recommend the protected EagleTAC 3100 mAh battery, and the XTAR WP2 II charger. In my humble opinion these are both excellent products and have performed extremely well for the last 6 months, with daily use from the battery and twice weekly (more or less) for the charger.


----------



## davidt1

tony613 said:


> Yes, you have it right, and just as Mooreshire stated.
> 
> Paraphrasing from the product page, there are 4 main levels (High 1 and 2, Medium and Low), and each main level has two sub-levels. Your current selection of sub-level is memorized when the light is turned off and through battery changes. Strobe mode is never selected from off but always requires a double click from H2.
> 
> Also, in H1, the second sub-level for the cool white version has 420 lumens while the neutral white has 361 lumens. I tell you that because you are already using the H51W (neutral white) and your preference may be for a neutral so I wanted to be sure you knew.
> 
> One last thing: If you haven't already chosen an 18650 battery and compatible charger, I very highly recommend the protected EagleTAC 3100 mAh battery, and the XTAR WP2 II charger. In my humble opinion these are both excellent products and have performed extremely well for the last 6 months, with daily use from the battery and twice weekly (more or less) for the charger.



Thanks for the info, Tony613.

Do you know if the WP2 charger come with spacers for charging 14500 batteries?

Edit: I meant the smaller 10440, but found the answer. Thanks.


----------



## tony613

You're welcome Davidt1. I've gotten plenty from your posts so it's only right to pay you back. Although you already found your answer I thought I'd answer your question for others that may be wondering the same. 

The XTAR WP2 II charger accepts 10440, 14500, 14650, 16340, 17670, 18500, 18650, and 18700. It comes with two charging bays and two spacers. Each bay has a threaded hole where a spacer may be screwed in to make a firm connection. In addition the spacers can be stacked, where one spacer screws into the other, and then the pair can be screwed into one of the bays. This reduces the bay height to about 31mm or so, or about 1.25 inches. This is how and where I store the spacers (even while charging) since I currently have only one Li-Ion battery (the EagleTAC 3100 mAh 18650).


----------



## richardcpf

I'm into buying an H600 to keep in my car but I'd like to know if there is any risk by having it exposed to heat while the car is parked outdoors for 7 hours a day... Since i will be having a battery in it. Although I had my fenix tk12 with two* primaries *for more than a year and it worked just fine when I needed it.


----------



## thaugen

richardcpf said:


> I'm into buying an H600 to keep in my car but I'd like to know if there is any risk by having it exposed to heat while the car is parked outdoors for 7 hours a day... Since i will be having a battery in it. Although I had my fenix tk12 with two* primaries *for more than a year and it worked just fine when I needed it.



I personally would not store a light in my car long term with an 18650 as it's only battery option. I keep lights that run on CR123a primaries in all my cars.


----------



## Overclocker

planning to get this...

what's the general consensus on the best off-the-shelf clip for the h600?

or you think there's enough meat to drill and tap some holes for a clip? i hate snap-on clips...


----------



## davidt1

I have and love the H51w, and now look into buying the H600(w) for more brightness and run time. Does anyone have both the H51(w) and H600(w)? I need some info on the beam profile of the H600(w). Is the H600 as floody or more floody than the H51? Is the hot spot of the XM-L emitter larger than the hot spot of the XP-G emitter? Thank you.


----------



## varuscelli

Overclocker said:


> ...or you think there's enough meat to drill and tap some holes for a clip?



I'm pretty sure the answer to that part of your question is no. I don't think there's enough extra meat on the H600 body to do that. I could be wrong, but I don't see any place on the thin walled body where you could get away with drilling/tapping. _Maybe _on one of the ridges if you had the ability do so some very precise drilling...but for most folks I think attempting that would not be an easy option...and even then, it might not have enough bite to hold against clip pressure (might easily break loose).


----------



## Overclocker

varuscelli said:


> I'm pretty sure the answer to that part of your question is no. I don't think there's enough extra meat on the H600 body to do that. I could be wrong, but I don't see any place on the thin walled body where you could get away with drilling/tapping. _Maybe _on one of the ridges if you had the ability do so some very precise drilling...but for most folks I think attempting that would not be an easy option...and even then, it might not have enough bite to hold against clip pressure (might easily break loose).




oh well i may just have to do with a quark clip, that seems to be the only one readily available...

then maybe crimp it on with something similar to those things you seal the velocity joint boots with on a front-wheel drive car ...


----------



## big juice

does anyone have detailed pics of this flashlight? wanting a good look at it..


----------



## a_b

*big juice*, look here http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?t=10017


----------



## varuscelli

Overclocker said:


> oh well i may just have to do with a quark clip, that seems to be the only one readily available...
> 
> then maybe crimp it on with something similar to those things you seal the velocity joint boots with on a front-wheel drive car ...



What might work for the H600 would be if a really low profile snap clamp style of clip could be devised. The right snap clamp could be drilled at fitted with a clip and the snap clamp snapped on and off the body at will. The thing would be to find a snap clamp that is truly low profile. 

This is the sort that comes to mind (although admittedly probably more bulky than would be ideal):


----------



## tony613

I haven't gotten around to it yet but was thinking about trying a small stainless hose clamp (Google search results also brought back stainless worm gear hose clamps). Doing a very quick search just now I found a 7/32", a 5/16", and even one in black stainless steel. If one can be found that is small enough it would be very stable, could be put on either end of the body, and would be my preference over the snap on clips. For the clip portion, any number of things come to mind. Just brainstorming here but the first thought I have is an alligator clip. Even a thin metal rod like a bicycle spoke or hangar, or an old flat metal ruler, all bent creatively, might work. This idea would also be kinda' bulky too but maybe it'll lead to other ideas.


----------



## Overclocker

tony613 said:


> I haven't gotten around to it yet but was thinking about trying a small stainless hose clamp (Google search results also brought back stainless worm gear hose clamps). Doing a very quick search just now I found a 7/32", a 5/16", and even one in black stainless steel. If one can be found that is small enough it would be very stable, could be put on either end of the body, and would be my preference over the snap on clips. For the clip portion, any number of things come to mind. Just brainstorming here but the first thought I have is an alligator clip. Even a thin metal rod like a bicycle spoke or hangar, or an old flat metal ruler, all bent creatively, might work. This idea would also be kinda' bulky too but maybe it'll lead to other ideas.




or a zip tie

or a narrow steel collar, tension it, then solder the ends


----------



## tony613

Oh yea, I had forgotten to mention the zip tie. I happen to have a package of black cable ties that I tested for fit. They are .180"/4.572mm (listed on the package), just the right width to match the contours of the H600 body. These are good to test your design iterations because they won't scratch the light. I just didn't get any further with the clip. This morning I quickly looked and found an old mechanical Pentel pencil with a wide metal clip (wide for a pencil) that may work. If I get anywhere I'll post pictures but now I gotta' get to work. Need to be able to fund this hobby, you know.


----------



## Overclocker

with foursevens clip:


----------



## varuscelli

Overclocker -- looks like a good fit, but can you be more specific about the clip? Model number or part number or description...or link on the 4Sevens site?


----------



## Overclocker

varuscelli said:


> Overclocker -- looks like a good fit, but can you be more specific about the clip? Model number or part number or description...or link on the 4Sevens site?



varuscelli, foursevens sells only 2 quark clips. the "deep carry" and this one. the "deep carry" doesn't give much tension.

then i encased the prongs and a black zip tie within some heat shrink tubing. very neat and won't scratch the neck of the zebralight


----------



## varuscelli

Ahh, I see. You didn't mention that is was a Quark clip in that last post...or that you had actually ended up using the zip tie as mentioned a couple of months back...or the heat shrink tubing. Probably best to elaborate in the post with the pics (for clarity, I mean). Without asking...or giving more info with the pics...it was hard to tell what was being shown in those two pics. Thanks for clarifying.


----------



## fxc3700

Ya overclocker can you break that down again, how you added the clip to your zebralight?


----------



## Overclocker

fxc3700 said:


> Ya overclocker can you break that down again, how you added the clip to your zebralight?




at first i simply snapped the clip onto the neck of the h600. it was kinda loose so i thought a zip tie would hold it in, and it did but it kept sliding around and it seemed like the metal clip would eventually scratch up the neck of the light. 

so i came up with the solution of encasing the zip tie AND the prongs of the clip within some heat shrink tubing. two birds with one stone, zip tie doesn't slide off anymore and clip won't scratch the neck


----------



## LEDagent

Illuminationgear.com says they sell their h600 with an H51 clip included. 

*OUR ZL H600's -
include a H51 pocket clip for additional versatility!* 
Does the H51 clip work well? I'm planning on picking up an H600 pretty soon and may buy from them if the pocket clip works out well.


----------



## Thursday

Should I go with the H600-W or H600-FW....?:help: Reading about the rattle problem with FW has me worried.


----------



## varuscelli

Thursday said:


> Should I go with the H600-W or H600-FW....?:help: Reading about the rattle problem with FW has me worried.



That rattle problem with the occasional H600Fw was quite a while back. I doubt any of the ones they're selling now would still have that going on. I could be wrong, I haven't seen anyone mention it since some of those initial ones.


----------



## cgrim

spelunkik said:


> Seems my headlamp issue has degenerated into something even worse. My previous flicker problem on Turbo disappeared the day after it occurred, but now my H600w has no low mode. When I hold in the button to cycle through the modes, it goes from medium to turbo to turbo again. In addition, I when I double click it does not change brightness at each level. I swapped batteries to see if it was a battery issue but the problem remains. Immediately before this problem began yesterday, I cycled to medium (I think it was medium) and then the light dimmed and flickered with a faint static sound. Nonplussed, I decided to cycle through modes and discovered I no longer had a low setting and no subsettings on the remaining levels. There is no apparent moisture inside the light, and it has not been dropped or impacted anything.
> 
> SUGGESTIONS???



Hi spelunkik, 

I have the same problem with H600 as you descibed. It has occurred after half an year of using it. How did you solved the problem? Did you ask Zebralight for replacement? Did they tell you what was the problem?

Thank you very much for your response.
cgrim


----------



## CamoNinja

*My H600 and H31*

Received these from TorchDircet over on CPFMP. Sorry for not having to best of pictures. I used the clip from H31 on H600 and used a Fenix clip on the H31. Made a holder for the H31 with a money clip.


----------



## one_half_3544

*Re: My H600 and H31*

Is it possible to switch to turbo mode (H1) without too much clicking? If, for example, H2 is memorized and current mode is M1?
As far a I understand the UI description, the shortest way is to turn off the light (single click), then turn it on in high mode (single click) and then switch to H1 (double click). Am I right?

I own a Spark ST6 (which switches to turbo on double click) and want to try H600, but turbo mode is not very useful to me if it is not instantly available.


----------



## tony613

*Re: My H600 and H31*



one_half_3544 said:


> Is it possible to switch to turbo mode (H1) without too much clicking? If, for example, H2 is memorized and current mode is M1?
> As far a I understand the UI description, the shortest way is to turn off the light (single click), then turn it on in high mode (single click) and then switch to H1 (double click). Am I right?
> 
> I own a Spark ST6 (which switches to turbo on double click) and want to try H600, but turbo mode is not very useful to me if it is not instantly available.



Hey one_half, 
For the H600, one short click from off can bring you to turbo. That's it. 


For the mode in which I have it configured, considered H2, single clicking brings it to turbo, and after three minutes it steps down (the different variations - cool white, neutral white - step to different levels), and double clicking once in high brings it to strobe. 

I literally just came in from an hour single track mountain bike ride, in full darkness, in the woods, full tree cover and overcast. Light mounted sideways to handlebars so that I can activate it with my thumb without taking my hands off the bars. I turned the light either down or off when we stopped to conserve battery and when quick single clicking back on it always goes back to turbo (highest mode), again for three minutes. I think I only noticed the step down one time all night, in case you are wondering. You certainly can notice the step down while trying to see it but for me, in practice, not so much. My light was easily as bright as everyone else's, and they had blue white "bike" lights with cables to battery packs. Very happy with my H600W. 

Hope that helps.


----------



## one_half_3544

*Re: My H600 and H31*

Thank you, tony613!


Does h600 have reverse polarity protection?


----------



## yggygtrty

I have four hella hr 00 0185 on the front of my jeep. are they legal to drive in sc and nc?:thinking:


----------



## tony613

*Re: My H600 and H31*



one_half_3544 said:


> Thank you, tony613!
> 
> 
> Does h600 have reverse polarity protection?




My pleasure one_half. 

WRT protection circuitry, I know it has "builtin over-discharging protection with 2.7V cutoff" (directly from ZL website), but I don't remember ever seeing, and couldn't find, any mention of reverse polarity protection on the ZL website so it seems no it does not. Others may have different information. 

It's pretty simple though, and seems very natural in use; drop the battery in top down, so that the flat side is always showing when screwing on the bottom cap. In other words, top of the battery goes to the top of the light.


----------



## Overclocker

*Re: My H600 and H31*



one_half_3544 said:


> Thank you, tony613!
> 
> 
> Does h600 have reverse polarity protection?




i once negligently inserted a cell in reverse. didn't kill the light


----------



## one_half_3544

*Re: My H600 and H31*

Thank you all!

Here is the reply from zebralight support:


> User/DateMessage *Customer*
> 10/12/2012 10:17:17 AM Hello!
> 
> Does H600w have reverse polarity protection?
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Staff (Administrator)*
> 10/12/2012 2:10:29 PM Yes, all H600s/SC600s have battery reverse polarity protection circuit built in.


----------



## markr6

*Re: My H600 and H31*

Sorry guys, I see this has been discussed on the last page but I'm just not 100% sure...we have turbo with stepdown, then one of the other H1 programmed levels by double clicking, right? Just like my H502 or H51?

Simply put, there's no way to skip turbo and just get 420lm and 170lm, or 420lm and 270lm? I would really like that.


----------



## markr6

*Re: My H600 and H31*

Bump on the above question ^^ I know it's an old thread.

Also, does the H600 get hot enough that some d-c-fix diffuser film on the lens would not be a good idea?


----------



## psychbeat

Should b ok - I've used similar with my p60 lights which run WAY hotter


----------



## moozooh

*Re: My H600 and H31*



markr6 said:


> Sorry guys, I see this has been discussed on the last page but I'm just not 100% sure...we have turbo with stepdown, then one of the other H1 programmed levels by double clicking, right? Just like my H502 or H51?
> 
> Simply put, there's no way to skip turbo and just get 420lm and 170lm, or 420lm and 270lm? I would really like that.



Yes, you can only program H2. H1 (turbo 750 -> 420) is fixed and unskippable. I'd suggest finding the most comfortable brightness level for H2 and using H1 in short bursts when you really need that extra throw.


----------



## markr6

Thanks for confirming that! I will probably use H2 most of the time, so it would be ideal to have both 342lm and 139lm (w version). Going down to Medium levels is a big jump. But I can live with turbo + one of the H2 levels.


----------



## turkeylord

Excellent thread, learned a lot by accident.  Kudos to all who contributed.

Just bought a H60w off the classifieds, and still not sure I'm sold on all-flood-all-the-time. Spot and spill may be more my style, time will tell.  Have the H60 and the H600 been pictured side by side? I'm still amazed at how compact my new H60w is.  Makes my SWM V20A AE look so bulky.


----------



## markr6

I'm a self confessed tint snob and want to get the "right one", so I'm considering purchasing both the H600 and H600w, then selling whichever one I like the least. I'll lose at least $10 selling it here plus a little on shipping, but I'll get the right tint.

Help convince me this isn't crazy!


----------



## rojos

markr6 said:


> I'm a self confessed tint snob and want to get the "right one", so I'm considering purchasing both the H600 and H600w, then selling whichever one I like the least. I'll lose at least $10 selling it here plus a little on shipping, but I'll get the right tint.



Why wouldn't you just return the one you don't want to the seller for a refund?


----------



## BirdofPrey

Not happy. I rarely use my H600 because I tend to fall back on my H60w. However, tonight, while trying to get a load of water it started shutting off. No ramp down, just off. I had just run it a couple of cycles since recharging the battery yesterday.

After a couple of attempts to run on lower settings, it finally stopped altogether. 

I brought it in, pulled the battery, and replaced with a fresh one. Guess what, nothing. 

Apparently my H600 is dead and this bums me out as I was planning to order the SC600 MkII next month as well as the SC6330. Now I'm not sure I want either.

My H60w also died once. Granted, they fixed the switch LONG after the warranty was up and all I had to do was pay shipping but do I really want an EDC light that I can't trust?


----------



## markr6

rojos said:


> Why wouldn't you just return the one you don't want to the seller for a refund?


I would like to, but as I recall all of the sellers I looked at say something like "...returns not accepted for personal reasons such as tint color..." I'll keep looking though. I'm not sure about Zebralight.

Edit: I checked the ZL site and appears they will accept returns within 30 days but only for defects.


----------



## turkeylord

I bet you could sell it on the marketplace and not take much of a hit. I've seen lots of lights advertised and sell for near their retail prices.


----------



## psychbeat

turkeylord said:


> Excellent thread, learned a lot by accident.  Kudos to all who contributed.
> 
> Just bought a H60w off the classifieds, and still not sure I'm sold on all-flood-all-the-time. Spot and spill may be more my style, time will tell.  Have the H60 and the H600 been pictured side by side? I'm still amazed at how compact my new H60w is.  Makes my SWM V20A AE look so bulky.



The 600 is a bit larger than the 60

If you're using it outdoors for hiking or biking you will probably need another light with some throw to supplement the H60w. 

Was just backpacking in Death Valley & I used my H60w with an XML 3.5a SMO p60 module for some throw. 

My buddy with his H600w didn't need another light.
Although my set up would throw further and the flood was a little nicer for camp. 

Overall the 600w is more versatile than the 60w for a do-it-all light. 

The tint on my 60w is stellar tho


----------



## Changchung

turkeylord said:


> Excellent thread, learned a lot by accident.  Kudos to all who contributed.
> 
> Just bought a H60w off the classifieds, and still not sure I'm sold on all-flood-all-the-time. Spot and spill may be more my style, time will tell.  Have the H60 and the H600 been pictured side by side? I'm still amazed at how compact my new H60w is.  Makes my SWM V20A AE look so bulky.



Hi hope this help, Happy New Year








BirdofPrey said:


> Not happy. I rarely use my H600 because I tend to fall back on my H60w. However, tonight, while trying to get a load of water it started shutting off. No ramp down, just off. I had just run it a couple of cycles since recharging the battery yesterday.
> 
> After a couple of attempts to run on lower settings, it finally stopped altogether.
> 
> I brought it in, pulled the battery, and replaced with a fresh one. Guess what, nothing.
> 
> Apparently my H600 is dead and this bums me out as I was planning to order the SC600 MkII next month as well as the SC6330. Now I'm not sure I want either.
> 
> My H60w also died once. Granted, they fixed the switch LONG after the warranty was up and all I had to do was pay shipping but do I really want an EDC light that I can't trust?



Send a message to the Zebra team, I am pretty sure that he can solve your problem...


----------



## turkeylord

psychbeat said:


> The 600 is a bit larger than the 60
> 
> If you're using it outdoors for hiking or biking you will probably need another light with some throw to supplement the H60w.
> 
> Was just backpacking in Death Valley & I used my H60w with an XML 3.5a SMO p60 module for some throw.
> 
> My buddy with his H600w didn't need another light.
> Although my set up would throw further and the flood was a little nicer for camp.
> 
> Overall the 600w is more versatile than the 60w for a do-it-all light.
> 
> The tint on my 60w is stellar tho


Great insight, thanks!



Changchung said:


> Hi hope this help, Happy New Year


Yes, perfect! Thanks


----------



## beast1210

My take on the H600, one of the best all around edc lights Iv owned.

My .02 with beam shots


----------



## markr6

This is a hard decision! I may just end up getting both H600 and H600w to decide for myself. Before I do, let me end with this: My Fenix LD12/22 are a bit too cool for me, the H51 even more so, and my PD32UE is great but it's approaching "too warm". So, based on that does anyone have a definitive answer other than getting both? I'm not into the numbers thing, I need to see things in person but 4200K "sounds" too warm if the PD32UE is 5000K.


----------



## Changchung

markr6 said:


> This is a hard decision! I may just end up getting both H600 and H600w to decide for myself. Before I do, let me end with this: My Fenix LD12/22 are a bit too cool for me, the H51 even more so, and my PD32UE is great but it's approaching "too warm". So, based on that does anyone have a definitive answer other than getting both? I'm not into the numbers thing, I need to see things in person but 4200K "sounds" too warm if the PD32UE is 5000K.



I buy my H600w from Illuminationsupply, he help me a lot making my choice, I choice the warm, it is not that warm, had a very nice neutral tint. You can see it here;

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=263908


Sent from my phone with camera with flash and internet on it...


----------



## markr6

I FINALLY purchased an H600w. I can't wait to try this thing out! The problem is, I'm waiting to see what the new Xtar charger looks like so I will probably receive the H600w before any batteries or charger


----------



## Changchung

markr6 said:


> I FINALLY purchased an H600w. I can't wait to try this thing out! The problem is, I'm waiting to see what the new Xtar charger looks like so I will probably receive the H600w before any batteries or charger



Why not the Nitecore intellicharge i4 v2? In fasttech you can find a pair of 3400 panasonic protected for 19$ shipped 


Sent from my phone with camera with flash and internet on it...


----------



## markr6

Changchung said:


> Why not the Nitecore intellicharge i4 v2? In fasttech you can find a pair of 3400 panasonic protected for 19$ shipped
> 
> 
> Sent from my phone with camera with flash and internet on it...



Bascially just out of curiosity. I want to see the new charger with an LCD which sounds nice since I'm used to seeing this when charging NiMH. It probably only read the volatge, which my DMM can do but like I said, just another week or so to wait!


----------



## Changchung

markr6 said:


> Bascially just out of curiosity. I want to see the new charger with an LCD which sounds nice since I'm used to seeing this when charging NiMH. It probably only read the volatge, which my DMM can do but like I said, just another week or so to wait!



Ok, sound like a good charger as well...


Sent from my phone with camera with flash and internet on it...


----------



## markr6

I just got everything in the mail today! Only read 3.69v out of the box, so I need to wait a bit until I can go running with my new ZL! Oh the anticipation is killing me!


----------



## markr6

Here are my thoughts after using my new H600w for the first time:

1. As expected, the output is amazing! I programmed H2 to be in the middle setting (232lm) and that seems to be a good compromise of output and runtime.

2. I miss the switch of my H51 and 502. The side switch on the H600 is WAY too small, recessed and hard to press. I understand this helps with accidental activation, but the tail cap solves that. I am going to have trouble while wearing gloves and takes too much effort while running. I can change modes easily with one hand on the H51. This could be a deal breaker for me.

3. I’m not sure about the size. It’s small and light for what it does but I think I want to keep it smaller for backpacking, like my H51. I think I would rather carry an extra AA and deal with less output.

So, there’s a lot of “I thinks” as I’m not yet sure I will be selling this light. Any thoughts to help me make up my mind either way?


----------



## Changchung

markr6 said:


> Here are my thoughts after using my new H600w for the first time:
> 
> 1. As expected, the output is amazing! I programmed H2 to be in the middle setting (232lm) and that seems to be a good compromise of output and runtime.
> 
> 2. I miss the switch of my H51 and 502. The side switch on the H600 is WAY too small, recessed and hard to press. I understand this helps with accidental activation, but the tail cap solves that. I am going to have trouble while wearing gloves and takes too much effort while running. I can change modes easily with one hand on the H51. This could be a deal breaker for me.
> 
> 3. I’m not sure about the size. It’s small and light for what it does but I think I want to keep it smaller for backpacking, like my H51. I think I would rather carry an extra AA and deal with less output.
> 
> So, there’s a lot of “I thinks” as I’m not yet sure I will be selling this light. Any thoughts to help me make up my mind either way?



I have it for a while, it's just a matter of getting used to it...


Sent from my phone with camera with flash and internet on it...


----------



## tony613

For a data point, I have used it many times while running using the stock headband and wearing gloves, and a few times strapped to my bicycle helmet or handlebars, again with gloves. I've never had any problems manipulating the switch. For instance, if I mount the light with the button facing to my right side, I reach up with my left hand, place my palm on the body of the light, and depress the button with my index finger. No problems for me.


----------



## markr6

tony613 said:


> For a data point, I have used it many times while running using the stock headband and wearing gloves, and a few times strapped to my bicycle helmet or handlebars, again with gloves. I've never had any problems manipulating the switch. For instance, if I mount the light with the button facing to my right side, I reach up with my left hand, place my palm on the body of the light, and depress the button with my index finger. No problems for me.


Yeah, I also wear mine with the button to the right/left hand to operate. I'm just so used to the H51 button that is twice the size and much easier to click. I'm sure I'll get used to it, but will always be a little upset whenever I use the H51 and reminded how nice that switch is.


----------



## markr6

I have to say, this H600w has really grown on me. Usually I am a firm believer the manufacturer/OEM parts are always best, but I took the advice from many CPF members and got the nite ize headband. For $5, I couldn't go wrong. It COMPLETELY eliminates any bounce while running. I run it on the 232lm setting most of the time. The warmer tint is amazing. Even though I prefer my PD32UE neutral tint, this is becoming more and more "normal" since I've completely kicked the cool white (blues) out of my collection. What can I say...Zebralight makes some of the best stuff out there!


----------



## StandardBattery

I can't really comment yet, but I just tried mine for the first time 3 days ago or so. Used the H60w in the past mainly, but have most of the smaller ones as well and red. I love these.

I got the H600w because I wanted more light than the H60w sometimes. I really like the output on the H600w and the tint. I was plesently surprised it was not heavier, that was my main concern before purchase. I like the stiffer switch on the flashlights, but I agee it may not be the best choice on the headlamp. I didn't have a problem with it, but my testing was too simple as I was not using the lamp for an extended period for a very involved task.

I'm not sure why I did not grab this one earlier, but when I saw all the Zebralights being upgraded I decided I wanted one of these now rather than waiting. I was going to get the H600fw, but I procrastinated too long and someone bought the last one. So that made me buy the other one right then. I'm happy with the beam on the H600w so it worked out well.

Looking forward to using it more.


----------



## markr6

StandardBattery said:


> I was going to get the H600fw, but I procrastinated too long and someone bought the last one. So that made me buy the other one right then. I'm happy with the beam on the H600w so it worked out well.



If you decide you want a floodier beam later on, I would highly recommend using some "d-c-fix" (see Phaserburn's Diffusion Film in the CPF Marketplace). I've always used it on my H51 and liked it so much I intentionally purchased the H600w over the Fw even though I knew I wanted a slightly floody beam in the first place. Of course you're losing some output but that's OK by me. You can use a protractor to help cut a perfect circle, but I just do it by hand and get close. Here's a closeup of my H600w:


----------



## StandardBattery

markr6 said:


> If you decide you want a floodier beam later on, I would highly recommend using some "d-c-fix" (see Phaserburn's Diffusion Film in the CPF Marketplace). I've always used it on my H51 and liked it so much I intentionally purchased the H600w over the Fw even though I knew I wanted a slightly floody beam in the first place. Of course you're losing some output but that's OK by me. You can use a protractor to help cut a perfect circle, but I just do it by hand and get close. ,,,


Yes, thanks for mentioning this for others. I already had thought of that and that's why it was more important for me to at least get a H600w. I use DC-Fix on one of my lights already and I have a bunch from Phaserburn, and I have some other stuff that's quite good too. I have not tried it yet, because I can't remember where I have stored it and I'm actually quite happy with the beam without diffusion. I hope to take some time to search my flashlight collection in hopes that I can locate the film.


----------



## TedTheLed

I searched a bit and found no mention of these models.;

The H602d 5000K 
The H602c 4000K , these will supposedly be 120 degree floody lights.
There might be a H602w, neutral white version.."

..are they being discussed anywhere? I heard they were coming in a month or so..


----------



## turkeylord

FWIW:


> User/DateMessage*Customer*
> 1/21/2013 4:19:24 PM
> Just wondering if you're planning to offer an H600w MkII to
> follow the SC600 MkII. Are you, and when might it be released?
> *Staff (Administrator)*
> 1/21/2013
> 9:45:46 PM No plans for the H600/H600w Mk 2 yet.


----------



## lightdelight

I just ordered a fw version from the zebralight site as they are now in stock!!!


----------



## phips

They were out of stock?
Anyway, just ordered a H600fw as well.
It will be my first Zebralight, Headlamp, Floody Beam, Neutral white flashlight... so a lot to be excited about.
The features that excite me the most are the super low mode that can be directly accessed from off and the neutral color.
Although I personally do not like the look of warm color lights, the usual cold LEDs just do not work very well outdoors.

My plan is to use the light for everything, from usual household stuff to outdoor activities (probably without any other flashlights).
I could miss throw a little, but I guess some people manage to exist without flashlights at all


----------



## lightdelight

Yes they were out of stock for months I had been impatiently waiting. Looks like some of the other items are on "backorder" now - recently updated from "out of stock". I am assuming this run is still from China. Anyone know when production will start in TX?


----------



## mellowhead

I just refreshed the page on zebralight.com, and the H600w were suddenly in stock! I've been waiting patiently as well. Just ordered one!

Snap one up before they're out again.


----------



## Romanko

I hope that today they will perform a new light.


----------



## phips

Today I received my H600FW after placing the order on 27.01, pretty good for shipping from China to Germany.
My first impressions...

The good:
- Size, I expected the light to be small but seeing it live is definitely a big wow.
- Form factor, very practical for close-up work especially with the option to tailstand.
- Color Temperature & CRI, looks a lot more pleasant to my eyes than CW and most importantly it seems to eliminate the 'flat' look.
- Frosted lens, I really like the combination of flood with the soft hotspot for this type of lamp.
- Switch, easy to activate and at the same time it seems well protected from accidental activation.

The bad:
- Interface, it just seems a little convoluted to me.
- Machining, good but not perfect with some small scratch marks and missing anodizing.
- Headband, I am missing at least the option for a middle headstrap. The light does not seem secured super well.
- Battery tube length, seems like the spring gets fully compressed with protected batteries, I would rather have light that is maybe 2mm longer and not risk damaging the circuit or batteries.

The ugly:
- Interface, getting to low mode requires timing, too slow and it switches to medium, too fast and you get blasted by the max lumen setting.
This is especially stupid since low mode is so dim that sometimes it is not even obvious that light has already switched on.
I guess this is mostly a practice kind of thing but right now it bugs me.


----------



## markr6

phips said:


> Today I received my H600FW after placing the order on 27.01, pretty good for shipping from China to Germany.
> My first impressions...



The good:
- Color Temperature & CRI, looks a lot more pleasant to my eyes than CW and most importantly it seems to eliminate the 'flat' look.

I couldn't agree more. This flat look is exactly why I ditched the H51 cool white, especially when hiking and running outside. Sometimes the warm seems TOO warm inside, but then you realize how great it is after using it in real life instead of white wall hunting and comparing!

The bad:
- Interface, it just seems a little convoluted to me.

I'm sure you'll get used to it and appreciate the options after using it for a few days. I felt the same way at first.

- Battery tube length, seems like the spring gets fully compressed with protected batteries, I would rather have light that is maybe 2mm longer and not risk damaging the circuit or batteries.

This bothers me. My 69mm EagleTac batteries fit and the cap screws on easily, but the spring puts some horrible scratches into the battery. Hopefully this is only a cosmetic issue and only time will tell. I take the battery out often to check the voltage so that doesn't help.


----------



## hotlight

Just got my ZL H600w today... stoked, then, disappointed.

2 issues with my light.

1) from turbo, it won't always cycle thru the modes (to Low, med back to turbo)... instead it will turn off. Not a big deal since I can work my way around that. Also, some times it does work as it should......while playing with the light trying to figure out issue #1, I noticed issue #2.

2) A pretty big issue IMO. While the light was on turbo, for whatever reason I looked at the switch boot.... there is light coming thru the edge of the switch boot. 
I'm guessing the pressed on ring that holds the switch boot, was installed too tightly...or the rings sharp edges weren't filed down resulting in slicing the edge of the boot.


Disclaimer- I'm not very familiar with the H600..... the "issues" I stated above may be normal. Are they normal? 


I am familiar with ZL... I just checked and none of them have light leaking thru the switch boot. 
I will be contacting the seller... I'm sure the issue will be fixed and at worst I'll be out shipping costs.

but wanted to see if any body has the same issues with their H600?



here is a pic of the light leaking thru the boot(about 3 o'clock is the light leak)... it's more noticeable in person. And there is 2 parts where light comes thru, the pic only shows the bigger gap.


----------



## phips

I have not noticed a problem switching the modes, although most of the time I just click once for high and hold the switch for low and medium.
However the light shining through the switch definitely warrants an application for a replacement light anyway in my opinion.


----------



## phips

< double post >


----------



## markr6

phips said:


> I have not noticed a problem switching the modes, although most of the time I just click once for high and hold the switch for low and medium.
> However the light shining through the switch definitely warrants an application for a replacement light anyway in my opinion.



I agree. No problems with mine purchased a couple months ago. Sorry to hear about those issues; hopefully you can get it replaced fairly quick.


----------



## phips

After some more use I have to say I am somewhat disappointed by the amount of pressure the light puts on the battery.
The spring is already preloaded enough before the cap even touches the body.
Thus only a few recharges later the battery is already plenty scratched.
That is certainly one way to get your light as small as possible 

Btw, is it possible to damage the light by running it repeatedly in turbo mode?
The highest non-turbo mode already gets plenty hot and I am wondering if there is some kind of thermal protection.


----------



## markr6

phips said:


> The spring is already preloaded enough before the cap even touches the body.
> Thus only a few recharges later the battery is already plenty scratched.



Yes this bothers me too but only seems to be cosmetic - http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?352871-18650-bottom-etched-by-H600


----------



## Bolster

hotlight said:


> 2) A pretty big issue IMO. While the light was on turbo, for whatever reason I looked at the switch boot.... there is light coming thru the edge of the switch boot.
> I'm guessing the pressed on ring that holds the switch boot, was installed too tightly...or the rings sharp edges weren't filed down resulting in slicing the edge of the boot.



There was a thread some time ago explaining how the boot is actually made of a clear rubber/plastic but blacked out on the top. So the light you see through the boot is very likely just shining through the transparent portion. Hopefully this info will take it from "a pretty big issue" to "a non issue" for you. To give yourself peace of mind, give it a dunk test while still under warrantee. ZL leaks are apparently more rare than the rumor mill on CPF would indicate, but even so, I now regularly dunk-test all my ZLs shortly after I receive them to make certain mine's a keeper.


----------



## hotlight

it's definitely less of a issue if it's true. (blacked out clear rubber boot). Glad I posted, because I never would of guessed that or found out. thanks for the info.

unfortunately it's already on it's way back to the vendor. 


+1 on the dunk tests.... all 4 of my ZLs have passed(didn't test the H600w). Never had a issue with any of my ZLs and 2 of them have traveled the entire AT. 



Bolster said:


> There was a thread some time ago explaining how the boot is actually made of a clear rubber/plastic but blacked out on the top. So the light you see through the boot is very likely just shining through the transparent portion. Hopefully this info will take it from "a pretty big issue" to "a non issue" for you. To give yourself peace of mind, give it a dunk test while still under warrantee. ZL leaks are apparently more rare than the rumor mill on CPF would indicate, but even so, I now regularly dunk-test all my ZLs shortly after I receive them to make certain mine's a keeper.


----------



## phips

After some more charges the light now emits a strange (and quite loud) noise when switched on high.
It seems to be correlated to the temperature of the head and gets quieter again after some time.

Also I noticed the light sometimes flashes on maximum brightness when I hold the button from off only to work normally afterwards.

My feeling is that one of the greatest lights ever (in my opinion of course) gets dragged down by a multitude of issues.
If there will ever be a Mk II with all the issues fixed, I will definitely jump on it.
However right now I am not too happy and I somewhat expect the light to fail shortly - not a great feeling!

[edit]
Just checked again and when I set the light down on my glass table it was about as loud as a electric kettle that gets started.
Also there was heavy and audible flickering after a minute or so.


----------



## LGT

Sounds like you got a dud. I would send it back for a replacement. Are the multitude of issues you're referring to just your light, or yours and other posts you've read? I only ask this because the one problem your light has may cause other functions to not work as they're supposed to. I do understand your disappointment. When one gets a new flashlight, and it doesn't work like it should, it's a real let down. The H600 NW I just bought two weeks ago has worked with no problems with about six hours of continuos use on three different occasions.


----------



## JetskiMark

phips said:


> After some more use I have to say I am somewhat disappointed by the amount of pressure the light puts on the battery.
> The spring is already preloaded enough before the cap even touches the body.
> Thus only a few recharges later the battery is already plenty scratched.
> That is certainly one way to get your light as small as possible
> 
> Btw, is it possible to damage the light by running it repeatedly in turbo mode?
> The highest non-turbo mode already gets plenty hot and I am wondering if there is some kind of thermal protection.





phips said:


> After some more charges the light now emits a strange (and quite loud) noise when switched on high.
> It seems to be correlated to the temperature of the head and gets quieter again after some time.
> 
> Also I noticed the light sometimes flashes on maximum brightness when I hold the button from off only to work normally afterwards.
> 
> My feeling is that one of the greatest lights ever (in my opinion of course) gets dragged down by a multitude of issues.
> If there will ever be a Mk II with all the issues fixed, I will definitely jump on it.
> However right now I am not too happy and I somewhat expect the light to fail shortly - not a great feeling!
> 
> [edit]
> Just checked again and when I set the light down on my glass table it was about as loud as a electric kettle that gets started.
> Also there was heavy and audible flickering after a minute or so.



Sorry to hear about your problems. I own seven Zebralights (2x H600w)and all of them have been problem free so far.

How long is the battery that you are using? I remember reading somewhere here that many of the 18650 Zebralight problems were caused by protected cells that were longer than 67mm. When the tail cap is tightened, the battery exerts too much pressure on the circuit board in the head. I have no experience with this and it is just a thought.

Best of luck with getting your issue resolved. It must be frustrating.


----------



## phips

I am just referring to my light.
Issues I experienced with it:
- Apparently not waterproof
- Flickers on highest mode, emits noise
- Sometimes flashes in highest mode when holding the button from off

Also in general
- Battery gets scratched
- Headband-holder is badly designed to a light that heavy

I am using an Eagletac 3100mah battery which should be around 68mm.
However they are already among the shortest available and I do not see myself using unprotected 18650s, especially in a headlamp.

Time to check out the Zebralight costumer service I guess...


----------



## markr6

phips said:


> I am just referring to my light.
> Issues I experienced with it:
> - Apparently not waterproof
> - Flickers on highest mode, emits noise
> - Sometimes flashes in highest mode when holding the button from off
> 
> Also in general
> - Battery gets scratched
> - Headband-holder is badly designed to a light that heavy
> 
> I am using an Eagletac 3100mah battery which should be around 68mm.
> However they are already among the shortest available and I do not see myself using unprotected 18650s, especially in a headlamp.
> 
> Time to check out the Zebralight costumer service I guess...



I agree with the scratches and weak headband.

You're using a good battery and the scratching appears to be cosmetic only. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?352871-18650-bottom-etched-by-H600 <br>The headband should also be replaced with a Nite Ize headband for about $5. I hate to immediately go and spend more money on "fixing" a $90 product, but it works really well.


----------



## JetskiMark

phips said:


> I am just referring to my light.
> Issues I experienced with it:
> - Apparently not waterproof
> - Flickers on highest mode, emits noise
> - Sometimes flashes in highest mode when holding the button from off
> 
> Also in general
> - Battery gets scratched
> - Headband-holder is badly designed to a light that heavy
> 
> I am using an Eagletac 3100mah battery which should be around 68mm.
> However they are already among the shortest available and I do not see myself using unprotected 18650s, especially in a headlamp.
> 
> Time to check out the Zebralight costumer service I guess...



Well I guess your problems were not caused by using batteries that are too long. I use EagleTac's 3100mAh and 3400mAh in my various Zebralights.

It sounds like Zebralight really needs to improve their quality control.

Are there any German vendors that you could deal with for future purchases? I'm in the US and I prefer to buy from CPF supporting US vendors for the fast shipping and ease of returns if necessary. I have been lucky and never received a defective light.

Again, best of luck dealing with Zebralight.


----------



## phips

Quality Flashlights in general a pretty expensive in Germany.
The H600 starts at about 145$ shipped, and even if I where willing to pay that massive premium for fast shipping, I could not find the H600FW model that I wanted.

I contacted Zebralight today concerning the main issue (flickering/noise on high) and have already gotten an answer.
So far they only asked about the battery being used but I will keep you updated.


----------



## rojos

phips said:


> I contacted Zebralight today concerning the main issue (flickering/noise on high) and have already gotten an answer.
> So far they only asked about the battery being used but I will keep you updated.



That seems to be a recurring theme with them. Blame the battery. Why don't they build it so that it works well with a wide range of batteries? Use a longer positive contact. Add 3mm to the battery tube. Isn't that all it would really take to prevent most battery related problems?


----------



## phips

rojos said:


> That seems to be a recurring theme with them. Blame the battery.



You guessed right:


> Please measure the length of your battery.
> If it is longer than 67mm, it is not good for the light


----------



## Zenbaas

rojos said:


> That seems to be a recurring theme with them. Blame the battery. Why don't they build it so that it works well with a wide range of batteries? Use a longer positive contact. Add 3mm to the battery tube. Isn't that all it would really take to prevent most battery related problems?



Exactly. I love my H600 but isn't it ridiculous to make a battery tube that doesn't fit all the batteries that it is supposed to. I enjoy ZL lights but they definitely have issues when it comes to release dates and still have some quality control issues.


----------



## traydragen

phips said:


> Quality Flashlights in general a pretty expensive in Germany.
> The H600 starts at about 145$ shipped, and even if I where willing to pay that massive premium for fast shipping, I could not find the H600FW model that I wanted.
> 
> I contacted Zebralight today concerning the main issue (flickering/noise on high) and have already gotten an answer.
> So far they only asked about the battery being used but I will keep you updated.




I'm experiencing the same issue as you mentioned earlier in your posts. My light flickers after about five minutes on the 'high' setting. I thought it was the batteries I was using (panasonic 18650 3400 mAh) but I switched them out and still get the same problem. The light has become unusable. :scowl: 
How have your contacts been with their customer service (I see it's been some time since you posted this)?


----------



## phips

Basically I feel like they tried to brush me off on the basis of a faulty battery.
After I pushed for a inspection under warranty I was provided with an address in China and an estimated turn around time of eight weeks.
Minus 2x two weeks shipping they light will be laying around for a whole month.
For the price of the light I feel customer service is not up to par.


----------



## Zenbaas

phips said:


> Basically I feel like they tried to brush me off on the basis of a faulty battery.
> After I pushed for a inspection under warranty I was provided with an address in China and an estimated turn around time of eight weeks.
> Minus 2x two weeks shipping they light will be laying around for a whole month.
> For the price of the light I feel customer service is not up to par.



Yeah that does not inspire confidence.


----------



## traydragen

phips said:


> Basically I feel like they tried to brush me off on the basis of a faulty battery.
> After I pushed for a inspection under warranty I was provided with an address in China and an estimated turn around time of eight weeks.
> Minus 2x two weeks shipping they light will be laying around for a whole month.
> For the price of the light I feel customer service is not up to par.




May I ask what batteries you are using? I'm using protected 18650B Panasonic (the big fat green ones that I believe a number of people use in this headlamp) and here is the response I got from them this morning. 
"The H600 headlamps take 18650 batteries. The standard 18650 batteries are 65mm long.
Any batteries longer than 65mm may work sometimes or not working at all.

We've tested the H600/H600w with unprotected Panasonic 18650 batteries
as well as ZL631 protected 18650s. Some protected 18650s
from other manufactures are longer than 67mm and may damage circuit board
inside the lights.

Most problems with H600 headlamps are due to the battery length."


----------



## phips

I am using an Eagletac 3100mah which should be about 68mm long.
The stiff spring in the tailcap already exerts a lot of force on the battery even before screwing it fully down so I can see where they are coming from.
However I do not see myself buying a 18650 from Zebralight just to try it out.
The light should work properly with common batteries in the first place imo.


----------



## traydragen

phips said:


> I am using an Eagletac 3100mah which should be about 68mm long.
> The stiff spring in the tailcap already exerts a lot of force on the battery even before screwing it fully down so I can see where they are coming from.
> However I do not see myself buying a 18650 from Zebralight just to try it out.
> The light should work properly with common batteries in the first place imo.



I agree. Are you going to send it back and eat the shipping cost or try another battery? I'm at a loss for what to do. I tried to be hard with them and say I want a full refund if I pay for shipping cost back to you, but they called my bluff. When the light works its one of the best lights I've ever seen considering the weight and size; however I'm at a loss for what I should do, just buy new batteries or send it back and hope for one that works with the current panasonics I own (I'm guessing a new light won't help the battery issue). I would be interested to see if any other members are using the same batteries as we are and what their experiences are with them.


----------



## dss_777

I just got the H600w and use AW protected 3400 mah batteries with no problems so far, in regards to fit of the cell or function of the light. 

For reference, I don't have enough time with light yet to go through the charge on that battery, and I haven't used it on high more than a few minutes at a time. If I get a chance, I'll try and run it harder and will report back if there are any problems.

Right now, I'm more concerned with how big it is in comparison to the headband. I loved the size/output of the H502c, and thought it was very useful. However, it was too floody for me, so this is the replacement. I wanted the throw and high output of the H600w, but need to add a top strap or something to stabilize the light better.

We'll see.


----------



## markr6

dss_777 said:


> I just got the H600w and use AW protected 3400 mah batteries with no problems so far, in regards to fit of the cell or function of the light.
> 
> For reference, I don't have enough time with light yet to go through the charge on that battery, and I haven't used it on high more than a few minutes at a time. If I get a chance, I'll try and run it harder and will report back if there are any problems.
> 
> Righ now, I'm more concerned with how big it is in comparison to the headband. I loved the size/output of the H02c, and thought it was very useful. However, it was too floody for me, so this is the replacement. I wanted the throw and high output of the H600w, but need to add a top strap or something to stabilize the light better.



While it could be improved, I personally think the headband is OK for easy walking or light activities like setting up camp at night. But forget about it for running or hiking! I, and many others, recommend the Nite Ize headband which is a stiffer nylon webbing material that will not budge even when running. The light fits in the holder nice and tight and I never had to adjust it once while running. Perfect setup for only $5!


----------



## dss_777

Thanks! My current use is to be crawling around the attic and under the house doing a termite treatment, so lots of odd and ackward positions. Just waiting for the right attachments for my new bug sprayer. Any day now. Yay!


----------



## traydragen

dss_777 said:


> I just got the H600w and use AW protected 3400 mah batteries with no problems so far, in regards to fit of the cell or function of the light.
> 
> For reference, I don't have enough time with light yet to go through the charge on that battery, and I haven't used it on high more than a few minutes at a time. If I get a chance, I'll try and run it harder and will report back if there are any problems.
> 
> Right now, I'm more concerned with how big it is in comparison to the headband. I loved the size/output of the H502c, and thought it was very useful. However, it was too floody for me, so this is the replacement. I wanted the throw and high output of the H600w, but need to add a top strap or something to stabilize the light better.
> 
> We'll see.



Thanks for the info. Can you be a little more specific on the batteries you are using? I am using the Panasonic 3400 as well and they are protected (the green ones). Do these specific batteries work well for you or are you using a different model altogether? Thanks!


----------



## dss_777

These are supposed to be Panasonic 3400 cells with IC protection built and labed by AW. Supposed to be one of the shortest 3400 cells out there. Same specs as teh 3100 version, just more capacity. See here: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?230876-AW-s-LiIon-Batteries-Sales-Thread-*Part-12*

He doesn't list the 3400 yet... you have to go to the dealers to get them. Mine came from Lighthound, quickly and with no drama.


----------



## traydragen

dss_777 said:


> These are supposed to be Panasonic 3400 cells with IC protection built and labed by AW. Supposed to be one of the shortest 3400 cells out there. Same specs as teh 3100 version, just more capacity. See here: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?230876-AW-s-LiIon-Batteries-Sales-Thread-*Part-12*
> 
> He doesn't list the 3400 yet... you have to go to the dealers to get them. Mine came from Lighthound, quickly and with no drama.



My problem is that I'm in Korea so ill need something I can ebay from Hong Kong or somewhere nearby : (


----------



## offtrail

Hi Everyone,


Just thought I'd share my experience with the ZL H600 XM-L 750 Lm headlamp.

I've purchased 7 of them and one H600w over the last 1.5 years. I use them daily (on a rotating basis) for at least 3hrs per day for normal-round-the-house living (regular lighting is off - I also tailstand an S6330 and a couple of TK-75's in the three most frequented rooms). I've taken dozens of hikes at night, often bushwacking in the Catskill, NY region until 1AM, frequently offtrail in regions I've never been to before. Steep trails, rocks, 2' of snow, rain, heat, bugs, fatigue - who cares? 

I've never done technical climbing or caving.

I've installed an-over-the-head second headband on each of the lights, thus eliminating any sloppy play, even when wearing a thick wool hat and balaclava in -20F temps. I've tripped, jumped, ran and fallen with a 30lb. pack without the light being jarred loose. The second headband is critical for this and enables me to achieve that "perfect headlamp experience".

As far as 18650 batteries, I own 30 Tenergy 2600mAh's, 10 EagleTac 3100's, 16 EagleTac 3400's and 10 Fasttech green 3400's (Panasonic 18650B). These are all used, also on a rotating basis, with the 8 lights. Interestingly, 7 of the lights can use any of the batteries comfortably. Only one light has a problem with only the longer Fasttech bats, due to the placement of the front-end spring and circuitry (too much compression in this one case).

I've easily used the H600 for over 1500 hours and have, fortunately, had only one problem once with a defective clicky switch. Zebra promptly and happily replaced that light with a new one.

From my experience, no other light comes close to it, in terms of weight, brightness, ease of use (even with gloves on), reliability, or just plain fun.

Unfortunately for my flashaholic addiction, my 2nd income source is drying up, taking my discretionary spending habit with it.


Offtrail


----------



## traydragen

offtrail said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> 
> Just thought I'd share my experience with the ZL H600 XM-L 750 Lm headlamp.
> 
> I've purchased 7 of them and one H600w over the last 1.5 years. I use them daily (on a rotating basis) for at least 3hrs per day for normal-round-the-house living (regular lighting is off - I also tailstand an S6330 and a couple of TK-75's in the three most frequented rooms). I've taken dozens of hikes at night, often bushwacking in the Catskill, NY region until 1AM, frequently offtrail in regions I've never been to before. Steep trails, rocks, 2' of snow, rain, heat, bugs, fatigue - who cares?
> 
> I've never done technical climbing or caving.
> 
> I've installed an-over-the-head second headband on each of the lights, thus eliminating any sloppy play, even when wearing a thick wool hat and balaclava in -20F temps. I've tripped, jumped, ran and fallen with a 30lb. pack without the light being jarred loose. The second headband is critical for this and enables me to achieve that "perfect headlamp experience".
> 
> As far as 18650 batteries, I own 30 Tenergy 2600mAh's, 10 EagleTac 3100's, 16 EagleTac 3400's and 10 Fasttech green 3400's (Panasonic 18650B). These are all used, also on a rotating basis, with the 8 lights. Interestingly, 7 of the lights can use any of the batteries comfortably. Only one light has a problem with only the longer Fasttech bats, due to the placement of the front-end spring and circuitry (too much compression in this one case).
> 
> I've easily used the H600 for over 1500 hours and have, fortunately, had only one problem once with a defective clicky switch. Zebra promptly and happily replaced that light with a new one.
> 
> From my experience, no other light comes close to it, in terms of weight, brightness, ease of use (even with gloves on), reliability, or just plain fun.
> 
> Unfortunately for my flashaholic addiction, my 2nd income source is drying up, taking my discretionary spending habit with it.
> 
> 
> Offtrail



Thanks for the review off trail. Are you having the flickering problem with the 18650bs? Out of the other batteries which one performs best in the 600? I use it mostly on high for what I do.


----------



## traydragen

offtrail said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> 
> Just thought I'd share my experience with the ZL H600 XM-L 750 Lm headlamp.
> 
> I've purchased 7 of them and one H600w over the last 1.5 years. I use them daily (on a rotating basis) for at least 3hrs per day for normal-round-the-house living (regular lighting is off - I also tailstand an S6330 and a couple of TK-75's in the three most frequented rooms). I've taken dozens of hikes at night, often bushwacking in the Catskill, NY region until 1AM, frequently offtrail in regions I've never been to before. Steep trails, rocks, 2' of snow, rain, heat, bugs, fatigue - who cares?
> 
> I've never done technical climbing or caving.
> 
> I've installed an-over-the-head second headband on each of the lights, thus eliminating any sloppy play, even when wearing a thick wool hat and balaclava in -20F temps. I've tripped, jumped, ran and fallen with a 30lb. pack without the light being jarred loose. The second headband is critical for this and enables me to achieve that "perfect headlamp experience".
> 
> As far as 18650 batteries, I own 30 Tenergy 2600mAh's, 10 EagleTac 3100's, 16 EagleTac 3400's and 10 Fasttech green 3400's (Panasonic 18650B). These are all used, also on a rotating basis, with the 8 lights. Interestingly, 7 of the lights can use any of the batteries comfortably. Only one light has a problem with only the longer Fasttech bats, due to the placement of the front-end spring and circuitry (too much compression in this one case).
> 
> I've easily used the H600 for over 1500 hours and have, fortunately, had only one problem once with a defective clicky switch. Zebra promptly and happily replaced that light with a new one.
> 
> From my experience, no other light comes close to it, in terms of weight, brightness, ease of use (even with gloves on), reliability, or just plain fun.
> 
> Unfortunately for my flashaholic addiction, my 2nd income source is drying up, taking my discretionary spending habit with it.
> 
> 
> Offtrail



Also, I did not catch what you said earlier because I was on a mobile device but you have gone completely off the house light grid? You solely use your flashlights and these batteries inside your house? That's incredible.


----------



## offtrail

"Thanks for the review off trail. Are you having the flickering problem with the 18650bs? Out of the other batteries which one performs best in the 600? I use it mostly on high for what I do."

"Also, I did not catch what you said earlier because I was on a mobile device but you have gone completely off the house light grid? You solely use your flashlights and these batteries inside your house? That's incredible."

Hi Traydragen,

I have never had a flickering problem with any of my H600 headlamps, regardless of battery selection. All the batteries I own (and mentioned) work well in each H600, excepting that one particular headlamp (out of eight ZL H600's), when using the Fasttech 18650B's. Of course, using 3400 mAh batteries, instead of 2600mAh, will net you approx 30% more runtime between battery replacement/recharging.

My house happens to be "fueled" by electricity only - no oil, gas, etc. I purchased it this way, in 2009, and it turned out to be - for me, at least - a fortuitous investment. I hate the smell of fuel oil.

I have found that the tailstanding use of the higher output flashlights (namely, one ZL S6330 and two Fenix Tk75's) provide more than enough light on the second-to-highest settings in my 3 frequented rooms to keep the ordinary lights off. I also use one of my ZL H600's as an additional point source of light throughout the evening and night. Definitely geekish, but fun! I estimate a monthly savings of $30 - $40 in my electric bill. One caveat: don't try to shave in the AM by flashlight only - you'll lose an ear. I still need ordinary, metered electricity to run the fridge, washer, dryer, etc.

Good luck!!


Offtrail


EDIT - Some additional info I dug up that might be useful:

WATT-to-LUMEN CONVERSION:

40 WATT light bulb = 450 LUMENS
60 WATTS = 800 LUMENS
75 WATTS = 1100 LUMENS
100 WATTS = 1600 LUMENS
150 WATTS = 2600 LUMENS

So, running the aforementioned tailstanding flashlights on their 2nd-to-highest settings provides the equivalence of 
75 - 100 watts of light output. For me, this is certainly adequate lighting, when coupled with an H600 headlamp.


----------



## cyclesock

Could I please have opinions on whether the H600w would be sufficient as my only bike light. I ride on the road and on shared paths, my speed would usually be around 25-30 km/h with a maximum of 35 km/h. I would also use the strobe in the early morning or dusk. 

The H600w appeals to me because I also wish to use it for jogging, I am just concerned it might not be enough as a single bike light. I don't want to buy 2 lights.

Thanks


----------



## Mr Floppy

cyclesock said:


> my speed would usually be around 25-30 km/h with a maximum of 35 km/h.



Geez man, I use the H51w and it is enough for me on H2 but I'm probably 10km/h slower than you are!


----------



## psychbeat

cyclesock said:


> Could I please have opinions on whether the H600w would be sufficient as my only bike light. I ride on the road and on shared paths, my speed would usually be around 25-30 km/h with a maximum of 35 km/h. I would also use the strobe in the early morning or dusk.
> 
> The H600w appeals to me because I also wish to use it for jogging, I am just concerned it might not be enough as a single bike light. I don't want to buy 2 lights.
> 
> Thanks



You'll be fine - one of my good friends rides trails at night with only an h600w.


----------



## ArcticHighlander

offtrail said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> 
> Just thought I'd share my experience with the ZL H600 XM-L 750 Lm headlamp.
> 
> I've purchased 7 of them and one H600w over the last 1.5 years. I use them daily (on a rotating basis) for at least 3hrs per day for normal-round-the-house living (regular lighting is off - I also tailstand an S6330 and a couple of TK-75's in the three most frequented rooms). I've taken dozens of hikes at night, often bushwacking in the Catskill, NY region until 1AM, frequently offtrail in regions I've never been to before. Steep trails, rocks, 2' of snow, rain, heat, bugs, fatigue - who cares?
> 
> I've never done technical climbing or caving.
> 
> I've installed an-over-the-head second headband on each of the lights, thus eliminating any sloppy play, even when wearing a thick wool hat and balaclava in -20F temps. I've tripped, jumped, ran and fallen with a 30lb. pack without the light being jarred loose. The second headband is critical for this and enables me to achieve that "perfect headlamp experience".
> 
> As far as 18650 batteries, I own 30 Tenergy 2600mAh's, 10 EagleTac 3100's, 16 EagleTac 3400's and 10 Fasttech green 3400's (Panasonic 18650B). These are all used, also on a rotating basis, with the 8 lights. Interestingly, 7 of the lights can use any of the batteries comfortably. Only one light has a problem with only the longer Fasttech bats, due to the placement of the front-end spring and circuitry (too much compression in this one case).
> 
> I've easily used the H600 for over 1500 hours and have, fortunately, had only one problem once with a defective clicky switch. Zebra promptly and happily replaced that light with a new one.
> 
> From my experience, no other light comes close to it, in terms of weight, brightness, ease of use (even with gloves on), reliability, or just plain fun.
> 
> Unfortunately for my flashaholic addiction, my 2nd income source is drying up, taking my discretionary spending habit with it.
> 
> 
> Offtrail



I received an H600 on Monday from IlluminationGear. It was olive green with an olive green and black headband. It however is shown as black in all illustrations by all sellers including IlluminationGear and on Zebralight's web site itself. One reviewer on Amazon said he received a desert tan one instead of the black one shown also. I'm not sure why other colors are sent as no color options are given on any site. Does anyone here know why? I really wanted black.

A more significant problem however is that it is not compatible with all 18650 batteries and identifying which protected batteries it will work with is nearly impossible. From 'offtrails' post it sounds like which batteries will work with your H600 depends more on the particular flashlight then the length of the batteries. 

I have 2 pairs of protected Panasonic 3400mAh NCR18650B batteries made by two different companies, FastTech (green) & International Outdoors. Both sets work fine in my Fenix TK35. Both are similar lengths with the FastTech being about 1mm longer. The FashTech are both 69.97 (measured with calipers). The International Outdoors are 68.97mm & 69.05mm respectively. Besides the approximately 1mm difference in length between the two brands, the only other apparent difference is that the plus part on the FastTech's are wide and the plus part on the International Outdoor are extra wide. My new H600 will not work at all with either of the FastTech batteries but works fine with either of the International Outdoor batteries. Even backing off the end cap so that 1, 2, or 3 threads show doesn't get the FastTech batteries to function at all with the light, so it makes me wonder if the problem is actually pressure related or something else?


----------



## markr6

ArcticHighlander said:


> I received an H600 on Monday from IlluminationGear. It was olive green with an olive green and black headband. It however is shown as black in all illustrations by all sellers including IlluminationGear and on Zebralight's web site itself. One reviewer on Amazon said he received a desert tan one instead of the black one shown also. I'm not sure why other colors are sent as no color options are given on any site. Does anyone here know why? I really wanted black.
> 
> A more significant problem however is that it is not compatible with all 18650 batteries and identifying which protected batteries it will work with is nearly impossible. From 'offtrails' post it sounds like which batteries will work with your H600 depends more on the particular flashlight then the length of the batteries.
> 
> I have 2 pairs of protected Panasonic 3400mAh NCR18650B batteries made by two different companies, FastTech (green) & International Outdoors. Both sets work fine in my Fenix TK35. Both are similar lengths with the FastTech being about 1mm longer. The FashTech are both 69.97 (measured with calipers). The International Outdoors are 68.97mm & 69.05mm respectively. Besides the approximately 1mm difference in length between the two brands, the only other apparent difference is that the plus part on the FastTech's are wide and the plus part on the International Outdoor are extra wide. My new H600 will not work at all with either of the FastTech batteries but works fine with either of the International Outdoor batteries. Even backing off the end cap so that 1, 2, or 3 threads show doesn't get the FastTech batteries to function at all with the light, so it makes me wonder if the problem is actually pressure related or something else?



Unfortunately they did a horrible job at capturing the color on camera. I agree it does look very dark gray in all the photos. Other lights on their site look GOLD but are in fact the standard olive color. Personally I don't like the color and would prefer black, but their lights are just too darn good I don't care anymore.

I use an EagleTac 3400 which is a little over 68mm and it's a tight fit. I started a thread about the bottom of the battery getting scratched really bad by the spring since it's so tight. It only appears to be cosmetic and doesn't affect the performance on my light. This tight fit is going to be a problem with any protected battery.


----------



## BirdofPrey

ArcticHighlander said:


> I Even backing off the end cap so that 1, 2, or 3 threads show doesn't get the FastTech batteries to function at all with the light, so it makes me wonder if the problem is actually pressure related or something else?



Zebralight is notorious for being finicky with battery length. That said, if a ZL end cap isn't tightened COMPLETELY, it will not function. So, by loosening it any at all, it's not going to function and that is in fact how you lock out a ZL. Simply turn the cap an 8th or a 1/4 turn. 

Eagletac 3100s work great in my H600 and supposedly the 3400s do as well. 

Sent from my ridiculously large Galaxy Note 2.


----------



## turkeylord

ArcticHighlander said:


> The FashTech are both 69.97


I understand the complaint here, but technically we're trying to fit a battery that's 4mm longer than spec, 65mm as in 18*65*0. And like BoP said, the anodized tailcap threads are a nice feature to be able to lock-out the light. It's my understanding that these lights have pretty good battery protection built into the drivers, do we really need to be using protected cells?


----------



## psychbeat

Yah - there's a protection circuit built into the ZL driver. 
Not sure u need two. 
I run unprotected in 90% of my single cell lights. 
Never had a problem. 
I have had protected cells short on me too (aw2600) due to a tear in the wrapper.


----------



## ArcticHighlander

ArcticHighlander said:


> I received an H600 on Monday from IlluminationGear. It was olive green with an olive green and black headband. It however is shown as black in all illustrations by all sellers including IlluminationGear and on Zebralight's web site itself. One reviewer on Amazon said he received a desert tan one instead of the black one shown also. I'm not sure why other colors are sent as no color options are given on any site. Does anyone here know why? I really wanted black.
> 
> A more significant problem however is that it is not compatible with all 18650 batteries and identifying which protected batteries it will work with is nearly impossible. From 'offtrails' post it sounds like which batteries will work with your H600 depends more on the particular flashlight then the length of the batteries.
> 
> I have 2 pairs of protected Panasonic 3400mAh NCR18650B batteries made by two different companies, FastTech (green) & International Outdoors. Both sets work fine in my Fenix TK35. Both are similar lengths with the FastTech being about 1mm longer. The FashTech are both 69.97 (measured with calipers). The International Outdoors are 68.97mm & 69.05mm respectively. Besides the approximately 1mm difference in length between the two brands, the only other apparent difference is that the plus part on the FastTech's are wide and the plus part on the International Outdoor are extra wide. My new H600 will not work at all with either of the FastTech batteries but works fine with either of the International Outdoor batteries. Even backing off the end cap so that 1, 2, or 3 threads show doesn't get the FastTech batteries to function at all with the light, so it makes me wonder if the problem is actually pressure related or something else?


I need to retract some of the info here. I tried the FastTech's again a 3rd time at the suggestion of Tod at IlluminationGear and tightened the cap up hard (by hand) and both worked this way. I wouldn't want to chance using these this tight all the time and will just use the shorter ones from International Outdoor for the H600 and the FastTech's in my Fenix TK35. It's a shame as the FastTech's are great and 1/2 the price with better follow up and faster service than the International Outdoors. Tod recommends the even shorter 68mm 3400 EagleTech which he has for around the same price as the International Outdoors ones. That's what I would get if need more batteries for the H600. He also said all these ZL are roughly this same color.


----------



## hemdale

Hi chaps,

(A bit OT, sorry about that)

I just wondered if the H600 would work fine with two CR123 ?


----------



## ArcticHighlander

hemdale said:


> I just wondered if the H600 would work fine with two CR123 ?


No.


----------



## hemdale

Thanks a lot Arctic :thumbsup:


----------



## firemedic

Zebralight has discontinued the h600's, along with alot of other models. The only headlamp they show available is the h502's I'm still in shockoo:


----------



## Merlin Pan

That means new models are coming!:laughing:


firemedic said:


> Zebralight has discontinued the h600's, along with alot of other models. The only headlamp they show available is the h502's I'm still in shockoo:


----------



## markr6

I love my H600w. No real need to update to the H600w MK II but I'll be very tempted - a bit shorter, 1020 lumens, PID.

But most importantly, I'll need to hang onto my H600w which has a nice white tint until I confirm the tint of the new model.


----------



## firemedic

What is PID? zebralight confirmed that new model releasing at end of this month.


----------



## turkeylord

turkeylord said:


> FWIW:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> User/Date
> Message
> *Customer*
> 1/21/2013 4:19:24 PM
> Just wondering if you're planning to offer an H600w MkII to
> follow the SC600 MkII. Are you, and when might it be released?
> *Staff (Administrator)*
> 1/21/2013
> 9:45:46 PM
> No plans for the H600/H600w Mk 2 yet.
Click to expand...

Guess they changed their tune


----------



## phips

firemedic said:


> What is PID?


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller

Basically it is the way the controller responds to a difference from the desired temperature.


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## turkeylord

phips said:


> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller
> 
> Basically it is the way the controller responds to a difference from the desired temperature.



Yeah, I found this post in another thread:



Painful Chafe said:


> I'm not sure why no one mentioned the PID regulation that is listed in the spreadsheet. It is the coolest part of this light.
> 
> Basically, the light has 384 discrete levels controlled by PID thermal regulation.
> 
> In a nutshell the light will maintain highest output possible based on thermal temperatures using 384 levels and a PID controller. The PID not only regulates the output based on the temperature it is reading, but it also monitors present conditions and the rate of heat rise to regulate the output. If the light is outside in a cool environment it will not need to cut back on the output as much as if it is sitting on a table with no breeze in a 75 degree house. It monitors how much it needs to cut back and self adjusts to keep from overshooting optimal output.
> 
> Use of the PID cuts the output as little and as slow as possible to maintain the absolute highest output possible. No cutting 300-400 lumens to keep it from overheating like other lights do. And for the most part, and according to ZL, nearly imperceptible.
> .


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## Gordo

I have been waiting anxiously for the H600w mkII. Giddy almost. 18650 runtimes, 4400K color, Zebralight UI. Drooling I tell ya. My Spark ST6-460NW is okay. The switch is quirky. Not in love like the ZL's
Today it's on ZL's webpage and buzzkill. :scowl:
Med1=65 lumens. High2=330 lumens. 
what the H, E, double hockey sticks?

After a few years of working in attics, crawlspaces and audio-video racks seeing small color coded stuff at an arm's length, below 75 lumens gives me eye fatigue trying to make out the details. And above 200 lumens too much glare. 
I constantly toggle between 115 lumens and 172 lumens on my H51Fw depending on the task, with the only complaint being runtime. 

Maybe I'm just odd-man out with my needs as everyone seems to be chasing the lumens. 
Highest high and lowest low is great bragging but 75 to 175 has been the majority of my up-close work. 
Distinguishing between shades of green and blue, and orange and brown matters. 
I love being hands-free to work. Being in dirty, sometimes wet, places 8 to 20 feet in the air changing batteries less often is a good thing.
And being able to stay in place longer to finish the job matters. 

Guess I'll cross my fingers on the H52w lumens and learn to live with the runtimes. Then again, I have my Spark and my H51Fw still works just fine.


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## ArcticHighlander

Gordo said:


> I have been waiting anxiously for the H600w mkII. Giddy almost. 18650 runtimes, 4400K color, Zebralight UI. Drooling I tell ya. My Spark ST6-460NW is okay. The switch is quirky. Not in love like the ZL's
> Today it's on ZL's webpage and buzzkill. :scowl:
> Med1=65 lumens. High2=330 lumens.
> what the H, E, double hockey sticks?
> 
> After a few years of working in attics, crawlspaces and audio-video racks seeing small color coded stuff at an arm's length, below 75 lumens gives me eye fatigue trying to make out the details. And above 200 lumens too much glare.
> I constantly toggle between 115 lumens and 172 lumens on my H51Fw depending on the task, with the only complaint being runtime.
> 
> Maybe I'm just odd-man out with my needs as everyone seems to be chasing the lumens.
> Highest high and lowest low is great bragging but 75 to 175 has been the majority of my up-close work.
> Distinguishing between shades of green and blue, and orange and brown matters.
> I love being hands-free to work. Being in dirty, sometimes wet, places 8 to 20 feet in the air changing batteries less often is a good thing.
> And being able to stay in place longer to finish the job matters.
> 
> Guess I'll cross my fingers on the H52w lumens and learn to live with the runtimes. Then again, I have my Spark and my H51Fw still works just fine.


I agree a good range of options is important. There are many like you who are unhappy with the loss of this middle setting on these 3 new H60*'s. On a couple other threads here they are suggesting people contact Zebralight asking for a revision to include the omitted middle setting.


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## hemdale

Hi guys,

Back from holidays in Thailand, during our stay we had to use (my gf and I) our ZL headlamps during a major thunderstorm and torrential rain.
After 15 mins running under the rain (more than if I was taking a shower).

Back to our room and looking carefully I saw some moist condesation INSIDE the lens.









Very surprise by this lack of waterproof resistance...checked out but the O-ring was properly sealed with silicon grease...

Did anyone experienced waterproof weakness of SL headlamps ?


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## ArcticHighlander

I remember there being a discussion of this problem in an early run of H600's and a suggestion that they be immersed as soon as received so they could be sent back and exchanged (with a US dealer) if it leaked.


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## Stefano

hemdale said:


> Did anyone experienced waterproof weakness of SL headlamps ?




Once I was surprised by a storm and had to walk about an hour in the rain.
My H600 has behaved very well no problem of water infiltration.

Translated with Google


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## PoliceScannerMan

Hey guys so my H600 crapped on me. It is dead. It is well out of warranty. 

Can I send this to ZL for repair? 

If yes, how much will it cost to fix?

Thanks!


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## RedForest UK

They fixed my H501w when it was out of warranty period with no charge, I'm sure they'll do it for a small fee at most if you pay shipping. Turnaround can be a few months, but worth the wait.

I have seen a number of earlier reports on water ingress inside the head of the H600.


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## PoliceScannerMan

Thank you for your reply, I will give it a shot.

Edit: Wow nice already heard back from them.


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## ArcticHighlander

ArcticHighlander said:


> I agree a good range of options is important. There are many like you who are unhappy with the loss of this middle setting on these 3 new H60*'s. On a couple other threads here they are suggesting people contact Zebralight asking for a revision to include the omitted middle setting.


ZL just got back to me: "We have just added a 150Lm level in between the 330 and 65."


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## BirdofPrey

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Hey guys so my H600 crapped on me. It is dead. It is well out of warranty.
> 
> Can I send this to ZL for repair?
> 
> If yes, how much will it cost to fix?
> 
> Thanks!



Pay for shipping back to them. They will fix for free but will take about 3 months though. 

Sent from my Note 10.1 somewhere deep in a hidden lair.


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## PoliceScannerMan

BirdofPrey said:


> Pay for shipping back to them. They will fix for free but will take about 3 months though.
> 
> Sent from my Note 10.1 somewhere deep in a hidden lair.



That's ok with me. It would still be dead in three months sitting here. Lol. 

Thanks for the reply.


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## carrot

PoliceScannerMan said:


> That's ok with me. It would still be dead in three months sitting here. Lol.


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## CarvingEnsos

Hey guys, I was hoping someone could snap a pic for me.. looking for a size comparison between the h502 and h600. I have a h502c right now and im seriously lusting over the h600w. Seems silly because my zl is my first and only proper light. I feel like I should be exploring other brands instead.


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## mab13

CarvingEnsos said:


> Hey guys, I was hoping someone could snap a pic for me.. looking for a size comparison between the h502 and h600. I have a h502c right now and im seriously lusting over the h600w. Seems silly because my zl is my first and only proper light. I feel like I should be exploring other brands instead.



Hi there.

This thread relates to the now discontinued H600 Mk*i*; you may wish to make your way over the H600 Mk*ii* thread.


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## antoninodattola

Hello guys! if you're curious, here I made a video on modding the H600 MKI 
I changed the led with a XM-T2 L2 8b4


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## burntoshine

Hey, has anyone found a good way to mount the H600 to a gopro hero3 camera?? I was messing around with zipties and here's what I came up with so far..















It seems to work pretty well. The rubber holder covering the capture button doesn't appear to be an issue. The holder is not pressing down on the button at all and I use the wi-fi remote capture button, anyway. However, adding the light to the top seems to make the whole thing a bit more top heavy. It might still perform okay, though. I have yet to do any real testing, other than running and jumping around with it on my head. I did experiment with it connected to the bottom of the camera with a zip-tie (pictured below), but I need it to be more secure.






I don't do as many night rides as I used to, since I moved. There are some really awesome secluded spots near where I used to live. Now I have to use my dang car to get back there. I'm trying to come up with a way to use both the camera and light for fire season. I'll post whatever setup I end up using; and I'll post the video(s).

Please let me know if you have come up with a good setup for this. I want to use the gopro headstrap mount, not handlebar mounting, so the light needs to also be on the head. I have tried just strapping my newer H600w mkII (has center strap) over my head and over the gopro strap, but it feels like the light might wiggle off, given enough jostling. It sits a bit off-center because it can't sit right behind the camera and still provide light straight ahead, but you can still aim it just where you want. I might look into using the regular H600w strap (no center strap) and see if that might stay better.

Here's a video of my fire spot (there's a short snippet of video with me donning the H600w):


I plan to make a video of my ride through the woods and to my fire spot this autumn.


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## markr6

burntoshine said:


> Here's a video of my fire spot (there's a short snippet of video with me donning the H600w):
> 
> 
> I plan to make a video of my ride through the woods and to my fire spot this autumn.




Nice! I'm a big pyro and always enjoy a good fire spot. Reminds me of a place I visit often in southern Indiana.


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## burntoshine

markr6 said:


> Nice! I'm a big pyro and always enjoy a good fire spot. Reminds me of a place I visit often in southern Indiana.



Thanks, man! Yeah, I'm already looking forward to the weather cooling off so I can pack up, ride out and light up the river.


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## psychbeat

I'm heading out for the JMT - just doing half of it (110mi ) next week. 
Two of us have H600Ws 
I was gonna bring a small thrower for fun but probs not gonna bother with the extra weight. 
I'll bring an extra cell even tho I doubt I'll need it. 
The runtimes on mixed use with mostly med are more than enough for a week. 

I've got mine on a piece of shock cord & toggle so it can be a neck light or headlamp. 
It's a tad lighter than the head strap as well. 
Bounces a little bit if I'm jogging but fine for hiking.


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## psychbeat

Notes From the Trail:

8days/nights on the trail &120+ miles & another night car camping all on a single 18650. 


Still was showing 3flashes on the indicator. I should've taken a voltage reading with my dmm but forgot. 
Cell used was a raw Panasonic NCR18650PF 

My friendsdid the whole trip on single cells too. One using an H600W MKII L2 like mine & another using my vintage H60W. 
We didn't conserve or even worry about modes - I had a couple of spare cells 

I ended up using the 2 spare cells to charge our iPhones with my Miller USB charger which has been on quite a few backpacking trips now. 

Good stuff - my only complaint is that I wish the tint was a bit warmer & closer to the old school H60W. 

We even saw a couple of days of rain & some hail as well as major altitude changes up to 14500 on mt Whitney. 
I had my light in the mesh outer pocket I my backpack getting wet etc. 
No problems so far!
For the weight and size I can't imagine a better light for backpacking period.


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## markr6

psychbeat said:


> For the weight and size I can't imagine a better light for backpacking period.



Enough said! It's the only light I take backpacking anymore, other than a backup Photon II for emergencies.

Thanks for the pics...can't wait to get back out into the woods this fall!


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