# Jetbeam RRT-01



## gopajti (Mar 11, 2012)

New Jetbeam model, RRT-01



background Nitecore TM15 and TM20 and Explorer series!! :huh:

RRT-01 photo
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...02763275.53977.146980842002475&type=1&theater


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## TEEJ (Mar 11, 2012)

Is there an English version?


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## CarpentryHero (Mar 11, 2012)

Looks a lot like the SWM M11r, Looks good


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## scottyhazzard (Mar 11, 2012)

Nice, now what's the deal with thoseTM's?


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## Draven451 (Mar 12, 2012)

It will be nice to hear more about these new lights. Once Jetbeam and Nitecore make official announcements or reviewers release their opinions.


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## gopajti (Mar 19, 2012)

official
http://www.jet-beam.com/links/pro/rrt01.aspx


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## DM51 (Mar 19, 2012)

This post had an incorrect time-stamp and appeared at the wrong place in the thread due to forum software issues (not the fault of the poster):



Fireclaw18 said:


> That looks very nice! I love the small size.
> 
> I wonder if the RRT-01 uses an XML. And what it's maximum output is. And whether that little silver thing at the very back is a button or if the only control is the rotator ring like on the M11R.


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## flashflood (Mar 19, 2012)

gopajti said:


> official
> http://www.jet-beam.com/links/pro/rrt01.aspx



Now that right there is very tempting. Anyone know whether it uses PWM, and if so, at what frequency?


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 19, 2012)

gopajti said:


> official
> http://www.jet-beam.com/links/pro/rrt01.aspx



Interesting.

Looks like the only control is the rotator ring like the M11r. You can see in the picture that the post in the back of the tailcap is actually the keychain attachment point. It has a hole through it. 500 lumens with an XML-T6.

I wonder how this compares in size to the V11r. the V11R does have a tailcap button so is probably a bit bigger.

One thing that's nice: unlike the Sunwayman lights, the RRT-01 has reverse polarity protection. I damaged my V10r by putting the battery in the wrong way.


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## koolranch (Mar 19, 2012)

I love it! How much and when can we buy it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dlmorgan999 (Mar 19, 2012)

koolranch said:


> I love it! How much and when can we buy it.


Yep - that's definitely the burning question! I already have the RRT-0, RRT-2 and RRT-15. Time to add another one to the family.


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## peterharvey73 (Mar 20, 2012)

Nice...


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## iron potato (Mar 20, 2012)

JB RRT01 vs SWM M11R, which one would u pick & why ?

I really liking the Klarus XT1C dual switch design, but too bad it wont take RCR


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## dlmorgan999 (Mar 20, 2012)

I have both the V10R and the M11R. While I really like Sunwayman lights, I would choose the RRT-01 over the M11R purely for the infinitely variable output.

Choosing between the RRT-01 and the V10R on the other hand would be much more difficult, but I would probably go for the V10R due to the tailswitch that would allow me to turn the light on to a pre-selected level.


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## iron potato (Mar 20, 2012)

dlmorgan999 said:


> I have both the V10R and the M11R. While I really like Sunwayman lights, I would choose the RRT-01 over the M11R purely for the infinitely variable output.
> 
> Choosing between the RRT-01 and the V10R on the other hand would be much more difficult, but I would probably go for the V10R due to the tailswitch that would allow me to turn the light on to a pre-selected level.



Hey Morgan, how is the beamshot between V10R & M11R ? Is it confusing to activate strobe mode on M11R ?


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## Torchaddict (Mar 20, 2012)

dlmorgan999 said:


> I have both the V10R and the M11R. While I really like Sunwayman lights, I would choose the RRT-01 over the M11R purely for the infinitely variable output.
> 
> Choosing between the RRT-01 and the V10R on the other hand would be much more difficult, but I would probably go for the V10R due to the tailswitch that would allow me to turn the light on to a pre-selected level.



I too, would choose the RRT-01 over the M11R. It has a better looking "McGizmo" clip, better (rotating?) keychain attachment, chrome/silver bezel, and infinite variable... And no cons that I can see.


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## dlmorgan999 (Mar 20, 2012)

iron potato said:


> Hey Morgan, how is the beamshot between V10R & M11R ? Is it confusing to activate strobe mode on M11R ?


I'm still a relative newbie (only got the flash-a-holic bug in late January) and as such I haven't really paid a lot of attention to beamshots - yet.

Also, I should have been more precise in my response. I have a V10*A* right now. I have a V10R Ti+ on order but both of those are XM-L (as is the M11R) and the original V10R is XP-G. As such, the M11R *should be* more floody than the V10R.

I don't really have a use for strobe and I can't remember right now exactly how to activate it. I'm sure others will chime in though!


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 20, 2012)

Yes the RRT-01 and V11R seem to be very similar. Main differences:

1. RRT-01 looks like it has a smooth reflector at least from the screenshots. This may result in a very ugly beam. Not good for a short-range light. Presumably the V11R has an orange peal reflector like the V10R
2. RRT-01 might be more expensive than V11R. Unknown what V11R's price will be, but comparing the V10R to the RRT-0 sees a considerable price difference.
3. RRT-01 looks like it might have an SOS mode, while the V11R's interface lacks it.
4. RRT-01 has mechanical reverse polarity protection while the V11R presumably does not.
5. RRT-01 Might have slightly shorter battery life. Assuming similar driver efficiency and same light output, but with RRT-01 running at higher drive current due to its less efficient T6 emitter compared to the V11R's U2 emitter.
6. V11R has a tailswitch.
7. RRT-01 has a better clip, and a a stainless steel bezel.
8. RRT-01 will be out earlier than the V11R, even if only by a few weeks.


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## dlmorgan999 (Mar 20, 2012)

iron potato said:


> Is it confusing to activate strobe mode on M11R ?



I played with this tonight and I have the answer. The strobe is very easy to activate. You rotate the ring all the way to the right (to the highest level). Then you quickly rotate left one level and back to the right and the strobe activates. To disable the strobe you just rotate one left one level again.


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## bigchelis (Mar 21, 2012)

Does anybody know what the Tailcap does?

I see in pictures it has a taicap with loop in it, but does it offer momentary on/off like a Peak LED light?


Thanks,
bigC


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## iron potato (Mar 21, 2012)

dlmorgan999 said:


> I played with this tonight and I have the answer. The strobe is very easy to activate. You rotate the ring all the way to the right (to the highest level). Then you quickly rotate left one level and back to the right and the strobe activates. To disable the strobe you just rotate one left one level again.



Ahh, how nice  now I couldn't decides which one to pick, M11R U2 or M10R T6... :shrug:


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## gopajti (Mar 22, 2012)




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## Patriot (Mar 22, 2012)

My goodness, that's a dramatic difference in output! Thanks for sharing the JIF's!


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## TEEJ (Mar 22, 2012)

dlmorgan999 said:


> I played with this tonight and I have the answer. *The strobe is very easy to activate*.
> 
> 1) You rotate the ring all the way to the right (to the highest level).
> 
> ...



You've GOT to be KIDDING? That's EASY?



If you NEED the strobe...do you REALLY think it will be easy to engage under pressure?

How about pressing one button or something? - THAT'S easy.


Step 1) is not too too bad, but step 2) means you could easily OVERSHOOT the detent you wanted while facing a situation you thought you needed the strobe FOR...and its the WORST UI choice in this case...and step 3) might be doable as at least you might not over shoot if there's a stop there....but by the time you DO all that twisting, with both hands of course...the situation has progressed without you.





:thumbsdow


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## dlmorgan999 (Mar 22, 2012)

All valid points. Since I'm never in a "tactical" situation, I guess I don't have the right mindset. . I guess "easy" would be something more like that Klarus XT11.


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## kkeyser (Mar 22, 2012)

TEEJ said:


> You've GOT to be KIDDING? That's EASY?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



If you are in some kind of life or death situation that a flashlight will be able to get you out of, and it requires split second reactions...then you aren't in a situation.

It's a flashlight, not a firearm or knife. If you need the strobe to get somebody's attention or whatever, a second or two isn't going to make a difference, and on the off chance it does, simply turning on the flashlight and waving it will get you a similar effect.

The strobe/sos isn't going to stun an attacker or anything life-savey like that.

But discussing strobe/sos is like discussing religion/politics, those who 'believe' will never be convinced that the strobe/sos function won't save their life someday, and those who don't just want the 'believers' to keep it to themselves, lol.


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## Joe Talmadge (Mar 22, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Yes the RRT-01 and V11R seem to be very similar. Main differences:
> 
> 1. RRT-01 looks like it has a smooth reflector at least from the screenshots. This may result in a very ugly beam. Not good for a short-range light. Presumably the V11R has an orange peal reflector like the V10R
> 2. RRT-01 might be more expensive than V11R. Unknown what V11R's price will be, but comparing the V10R to the RRT-0 sees a considerable price difference.
> ...



That's a good list... Two of the really big questions for me are:
- Jetbeam's variable control seems to usually go linear output, Sunwayman has a non-linear output. I've strongly preferred the Sunwayman algorithm... has Jetbeam changed to non-linear, so the entire range of control is useful? If not, I'd come right out of the gate *strongly* favoring the sunwayman.

- Runtime of both lights on low? Maybe it's already in the published specs, I'll look...


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## koolranch (Mar 24, 2012)

I just saw the specs and price. The runtime on high is only 20 minutes. That's terrible. Because of that and the price I'm out. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Warmlite (Mar 24, 2012)

The 20 min runtime on high doesn't bother me at all... I like options. I would love to be able to blast 500 lumens if need be from a sing 123 light. Then if i want longer runtimes i can just turn the light down to ~200 lumens, which is the high mode on most of my single 123 lights, and get similar (~1hr) runtimes as my other lights. Can't wait for someone to confirm some runtimes : )


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## TEEJ (Mar 24, 2012)

kkeyser said:


> If you are in some kind of life or death situation that a flashlight will be able to get you out of, and it requires split second reactions...then you aren't in a situation.
> 
> It's a flashlight, not a firearm or knife. If you need the strobe to get somebody's attention or whatever, a second or two isn't going to make a difference, and on the off chance it does, simply turning on the flashlight and waving it will get you a similar effect.
> 
> ...



It comes down to understanding why and how you'd actually use the strobe. You are correct in that its not a weapon, and incorrect in not understanding what it IS. Think of it as a particular sized wrench for a mechanic...it will not always be what is reached for for all bolts...but for SOME bolts, it is the right wrench. For the other bolts, there will be better choices.

A UI that makes something you would need to access quickly for it to be of use...take a long time and/or a complicated series of steps to use, would be akin to that wrench being meant for teeny bolt heads, but have a 6' long handle instead of a 6" long handle....you have the right size, but you can't fit the damn thing under the hood, etc.






--------------------------------------------------------

Gopajti - NIce job - You do such great reviews!


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## koolranch (Mar 24, 2012)

Warmlite said:


> The 20 min runtime on high doesn't bother me at all... I like options. I would love to be able to blast 500 lumens if need be from a sing 123 light. Then if i want longer runtimes i can just turn the light down to ~200 lumens, which is the high mode on most of my single 123 lights, and get similar (~1hr) runtimes as my other lights. Can't wait for someone to confirm some runtimes : )



I respect your opinion. Look at the 4sevens minix, it has a runtime of am hour on high. I'm also not convinced that the jetbeam is ANSI lumens. 


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## peterharvey73 (Mar 24, 2012)

koolranch said:


> I respect your opinion. Look at the 4sevens minix, it has a runtime of am hour on high. I'm also not convinced that the jetbeam is ANSI lumens.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yes, the RRT-01 running on a rechargeable 16340 with 3.7 volts and 750 mAH, does indeed output 500 lumens OTF and 20 minutes of run time to ANSI FL-1 standards.
The reason why the 4Sevens Mini-X only outputs 210 lumens with a whopping 1 hour run time, is because it is recommended to run on disposable primary CR123's at a lesser 3.0 volts, yet a greater 1500 mAH's capacity only.
Not only does the disposable primary CR123 have a lower voltage for less power, but the internal resistance of the disposable CR123 is also higher, meaning that the disposable CR123 has a lower discharge rate, ie a lower amperage, for a lower lumen output again.
Thus the Mini-X has only 210 lumens.
However, the disposable primary CR123 does hit back with a whopping 1500 mAH capacity, for longer run time...


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## phoneguy (Mar 25, 2012)

I may have to get one of these...I have daily carried a Jetbeam military for 4 years at work, dropped from 8-10 feet many times and has never let me down. The light has a couple of nicks in it from the drops but the coating has been amazing. 

Bryan


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## scottyhazzard (Mar 28, 2012)

Anyone know if the extender for the RRT-0 will work on the RRT-01?


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## scottyhazzard (Mar 29, 2012)

Just heard from Flavio; the RRT-0 spacer does not work on the RRT-01


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## Tain (Apr 5, 2012)

The inner diameter of RRT-01's battery tube is quite big. AW 18650 cell fit just fine inside the tube.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 5, 2012)

Tain said:


> The inner diameter of RRT-01's battery tube is quite big. AW 18650 cell fit just fine inside the tube.



Nice!

Now we just need a spacer to make the tube long enough for an 18650.


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## Gryffin (Apr 5, 2012)

scottyhazzard said:


> Just heard from Flavio; the RRT-0 spacer does not work on the RRT-01



Well, CRAP. I've been closely following the RRT-01 and the Sunwayman V11C + AA Adapter, this makes the SWM look a bit better now...


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## fyrstormer (Apr 5, 2012)

TEEJ said:


> You've GOT to be KIDDING? That's EASY?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If you need a TACTICAL strobe, you're better off getting a light with a dedicated strobe button, like the Jetbeam PC25. When the light is off, press the mode-change button on the side and the strobe will turn on. When the light is on, press-and-hold the mode-change button on the side for >1s, and the strobe will come on. Can't get simpler than that.

This is a pocket light, and one that never fully shuts off too. Don't bother evaluating its usefulness in a war zone.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 5, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Nice!
> 
> Now we just need a spacer to make the tube long enough for an 18650.


Or use an 18*3*50 instead.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 5, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> If you need a TACTICAL strobe, you're better off getting a light with a dedicated strobe button, like the Jetbeam PC25. When the light is off, press the mode-change button on the side and the strobe will turn on. When the light is on, press-and-hold the mode-change button on the side for >1s, and the strobe will come on. Can't get simpler than that.
> 
> This is a pocket light, and one that never fully shuts off too. Don't bother evaluating its usefulness in a war zone.



Actually the RRT-01 has no strobe. It has a hidden SOS mode by turning the light to max then to left and back to max quickly 3x in a row. But there is no strobe at all.

Personally, I think that's appropriate. This is a small EDC pocket light, not a tactical light.


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## scout24 (Apr 5, 2012)

I can live with the 50 microamps of standby current. As stated, not a tactical light, but an EDC. If used with some common sense on high, it should have a long happy life. It does, however, benefit greatly from a LOP reflector IMHO. Still gets out 50 yards, a big wall of light on high, and it tames the ringiness and corona around the hotspot to a great degree... McR20s, with a LOT of trimming and fitting. Beamshot to follow.. 








About 4 feet from a not quite white wall, in broad daylight, maybe 3/4 power...


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 5, 2012)

scout24 said:


> I can live with the 50 microamps of standby current. As stated, not a tactical light, but an EDC. If used with some common sense on high, it should have a long happy life. It does, however, bem
> nefit greatly from a LOP reflector IMHO. Still gets out 50 yards, a big wall of light on high, and it tames the ringiness and corona around the hotspot to a great degree... McR20s, with a LOT of trimming and fitting. Beamshot to follow..
> 
> 
> ...



Nice job! Where did you buy that reflector?


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## scout24 (Apr 5, 2012)

Fireclaw- I had one in my parts bin, the Sandwich Shoppe sells them. They show 38 left in stock, $18.00 each. A LOT of careful beltsanding, and enlarging the emitter hole to fit the XML...


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## run4jc (Apr 5, 2012)

Wow. I just received mine. I can live with the rings in the beam, 'cause this sucker will be put to real, daily use - won't hunt any white walls with this one. Scout told me to check it out without doing a white wall hunt first, and he was right. Beam quality won't win any awards for smoothness with the stock reflector, but who cares? I can't WAIT to see the uber low tonight when all is dark...geez, hard to believe the range of this little guy - at $100? Really? Are you kidding me? Nice job, Jetbeam...now I need to order another one and a couple of those reflectors....

:thinking:


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## run4jc (Apr 5, 2012)

Please see Scout24's post below!


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## scout24 (Apr 5, 2012)

run4jc said:


>


Many thanks to run4jc for posting this for me. Stock RRT-01 on right, about 3 feet from dor, about 100lm. Newreflector on left...


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## scout24 (Apr 5, 2012)

And now can't edit my spelling on my phone... Sorry! I think everyone gets the idea, though... Door, and new reflector... :nana: Thanks, Dan...:bow:


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## peterharvey73 (Apr 5, 2012)

It's beginning to grow on me.
So much more compact than old RRT-0, and so much more floody with a much shallower reflector for a wider spill beam too.
Hope they give an U2 emitter bin option soon, just like they gave the RRT-0 a choice between XP-G R5 and S2.
Hope they give OP reflector choice soon too...


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## texas cop (Apr 5, 2012)

With such a small refector and so much light I really hope a light op reflector makes the option list along with a U2 emitter. My EDC since they came out has been the ThruNite 1C smooth beam with its small op reflector. This RRT-01 is just nice enough to get but I'll hold out if improvements could be coming.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 6, 2012)

Jetbeam has been good about making replacement reflectors available for sale separately in the past. Don't worry too much about getting one and then seeing an OP reflector pop up for sale the next week.

Does anyone know if the OP reflector from the Jet-1 will fit?

EDIT: I'm disappointed to see it actually costs more than the RRT-0, which has a real "OFF" mode. Awkward.


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## F250XLT (Apr 6, 2012)

Great looking light, it's definitely on my short list. Will be a big plus if an optional OP reflector is offered, I's hate to have to send it out for modding.


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## flashflood (Apr 6, 2012)

texas cop said:


> With such a small refector and so much light I really hope a light op reflector makes the option list along with a U2 emitter. My EDC since they came out has been the ThruNite 1C smooth beam with its small op reflector. This RRT-01 is just nice enough to get but I'll hold out if improvements could be coming.



Yeah, I have the ThruNite Neutron 1C, neutral tint, and love it. This will be even better if they offer a neutral: brighter, variable output, and appears capable of taking 18350.

Any word on neutrals? Does JetBeam generally offer them?


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## F250XLT (Apr 6, 2012)

Does any dealer currently have these in stock?


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## iron potato (Apr 6, 2012)

Arghh, makes me gonna sell off my V10A & get RRT01 
Just like fyrstormer suggested, put in a 18350 for long runtime vs rcr123 &/or 14500 :devil:http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/member.php?78246-fyrstormer


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## scottyhazzard (Apr 6, 2012)

In stock at goinggear.


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## Fitz (Apr 6, 2012)

If they offer it with a LOP reflector and neutral emitter I'd be in for one, wish either Sunwayman or JB would offer a neutral version of this type of light.


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## F250XLT (Apr 6, 2012)

Fitz said:


> If they offer it with a LOP reflector and neutral emitter I'd be in for one, wish either Sunwayman or JB would offer a neutral version of this type of light.



Agreed, that would make it pretty close to perfect IMO.


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## e1sbaer (Apr 6, 2012)

Fitz said:


> If they offer it with a LOP reflector and neutral emitter I'd be in for one, wish either Sunwayman or JB would offer a neutral version of this type of light.


Indeed, a neutral emitter would make my decision between the two a lot easier.


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## juplin (Apr 7, 2012)

With super lowest low and infinitely variable levels, RRT-01 will be the best candidate for the flashlight at midnight.
One trit is added in the tail of my RRT-01 for easily locating at midnight.


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## e1sbaer (Apr 9, 2012)

Can anyone confirm that the tailstanding is a bit wobbly because of the length of the pole?


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 9, 2012)

e1sbaer said:


> Can anyone confirm that the tailstanding is a bit wobbly because of the length of the pole?



Yes. the post at the end sticks out maybe 1/4 of 1 mm. It also isn't helped by the way the body flares inward at the back so that the part of the body supporting any tailstand isn't at the very edge of the light. 

The light still tailstands easily on any flat hard surface. It tailstands better than a Thrunite 1C with its rubber button, but it doesn't tailstand as well as lights with completely flat backs such as the Zebralight SC80.


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## HIDblue (Apr 10, 2012)

Just fyi...Jetbeam is coming out with a Ti version of the RRT-01. Someone else just posted a thread about it.


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## F250XLT (Apr 10, 2012)

HIDblue said:


> Just fyi...Jetbeam is coming out with a Ti version of the RRT-01. Someone else just posted a thread about it.




Oh nooooooo, I'm gonna be


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## fyrstormer (Apr 10, 2012)

HIDblue said:


> Just fyi...Jetbeam is coming out with a Ti version of the RRT-01. Someone else just posted a thread about it.


*bouncebouncebouce* Where! Tell me where! 

EDIT: Nevermind, I found it on the JB website. THEY LISTENED THEY LISTENED THEY LISTENED YAY!!!


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## hazna (Apr 11, 2012)

I was keen for this light, but questionable tailstanding ability is a let down for me...


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## Lighteous (Apr 11, 2012)

hazna said:


> I was keen for this light, but questionable tailstanding ability is a let down for me...



I obtained an RRT-01 a few days ago. I am very impressed with its fit, finish and function. It is a superb light. I find that there is no flaw in its tailstanding ability. The protrusion of the key ring attachment post is very slight and does not compromise tailstanding. You have every reason to continue being keen for this light!

Another observation about this light is that the control ring has a "grittier" feel than the control ring on the JetBeam RRT-0. The control ring on the RRT-01 has a feel that is very similar to the feel of the control ring on the Nitecore IFE1, but without the strobe function. The grittier feel of the control ring on the RRT-01 is not better or worse than the feel of the control ring on the RRT-0, it's just different. Because the RRT-01 does not have a clicky switch at the end to turn it off like the RRT-0 has, I think I prefer its grittier feel because it seems less likely to be activated by accident while in your pocket, etc.


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## scottyhazzard (Apr 12, 2012)

I returned my SWM V10R Ti+ to purchase a Jetbeam RRT-01. Didn't like a number of things about the Ti+. I suspect from what many have written here & my experience with Jetbeam that I will be happier.


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## rhpdchief (Apr 14, 2012)

I received my RRT-01 two days ago and I'm kind of surprised that this light hasn't gotten more attention. I guess the release of the titanium version and a couple of similar lights from SWM have limited the discussion here. 

I've bought just about every light made over the past five years including many of the custom titanium lights and I've been carrying an HDS Rotary all winter. With that said I have to say that the RRT-01 is probably the closest thing to my idea of a perfect edc light that I've ever seen.

I wanted something smaller and lighter than my rotary for warm weather edc and really just took a chance on this light. I decided I didn't want a tail switch because I really like the simplicity of how my old Titan T1A operates. I was worried about the smooth reflector but figured Jetbeam would probably offer a op or lop reflector as an option sooner or later. 

Now that I have it in my hot little hands all I can say is WOW! I thought the 500 lumens would be fun and it is (more on that later) but the low is probably an even more impressive feature. The RRT-01 doesn't just go lower then the T1A by a level or two. I goes levels...no make that waves...no make that eschelons lower than the T1A. It goes to the point of not being sure whether its even on or not in a dark room with fully dark adapted eyesight. Fortunately there is a detent at both the off and max positions.

As to the 500 lumens and the smooth reflector I don't find the ringiness so noticable as to be a problem when using the light indoors. Once I go outdoors after dark and turn the light on I am not greeted by the short throwing wall of light I normally get from a floody flashlight. Instead there is a rather significant amount of throw combined with a tremendous amount of peripheral illumination. Its kind of like carrying a portable, aimable, streetlight in your pocket!

Additionally, it takes only a single twist of the thumb and forefinger to turn this light from off to max brightness. I always preset the ring on my rotary to a specific level before I put it in my pocket. When I go to use it I often find that it has moved a little bit from my preset spot or I just need a little bit more or a little bit less light than where I have it set. It takes no more time to twist the ring on the RRT-01 to my desired brightness than it does to turn on my rotary. In fact, it takes less time if my rotary then needs to have the brightness tweaked a little.

Finally, the ability to use AW IMR 18350 cells is just the cherry on top of the sundae.

Do I feel there are any cons? I think the pocket clip is too thin and it looks like it might rub against the adjusting ring if I actually installed it. I don't like to use pocket clips on a light this small when I have the option of using a P7 suspension clip. I honestly haven't given the clip a fair shake but it feels a little flimsy. The included screws for the pocket clip make for an adequate anti-roll feature if you're like me and don't want to use the clip. Also, with the lanyard post centered the way it is almost any split ring you may try will inhibit tail standing. They are either too big to lay inside the circle or they are too small to fit through the lanyard post. I had to fabricate my own ring to be able to use this feature and still have tail standing ability. 

I plan to go back to my rotary next winter because its just such a sturdy, reliable, versatile, workhorse of a light but with my wardrobe lightening up for summer the RRT-01 will be my edc.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 14, 2012)

rhpdchief said:


> I received my RRT-01 two days ago and I'm kind of surprised that this light hasn't gotten more attention. I guess the release of the titanium version and a couple of similar lights from SWM have limited the discussion here.
> 
> I've bought just about every light made over the past five years including many of the custom titanium lights and I've been carrying an HDS Rotary all winter. With that said I have to say that the RRT-01 is probably the closest thing to my idea of a perfect edc light that I've ever seen.
> 
> ...


Great review - short and readable, but addressing everything that needs to be addressed and I can't wait for mine to show up! :thumbsup:


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## peterharvey73 (Apr 14, 2012)

rhpdchief said:


> I received my RRT-01 two days ago and I'm kind of surprised that this light hasn't gotten more attention. I guess the release of the titanium version and a couple of similar lights from SWM have limited the discussion here.
> 
> I've bought just about every light made over the past five years including many of the custom titanium lights and I've been carrying an HDS Rotary all winter. With that said I have to say that the RRT-01 is probably the closest thing to my idea of a perfect edc light that I've ever seen.
> 
> ...



Good review.
In summer, I like to use something compact, short and thin, with straight sides, and floody too, like an RRT-01, esp when wearing tight jeans.
In winter, with big coat pockets, I use a floody lazy hand shake grip SC600 with 750 lumens; I don't notice the big 30mm bezel diameter as much in winter coat pockets.

I'm still a bit too nervous about the SMO reflector, and reluctant to bite the bullet.
I'm sure Jb will come out with OP reflector, as they have done so in the rest of their range.
I suspect OP will diffuse the beam more, for a less bright hotspot, but more importantly for me, a brighter spill.

I use a separate flashlight altogether, with an XP-G R5/S2 emitter for throw.
A HDS Rotary 200 is one of the top choices in this particular compact throw category.

Theoretically, wouldn't it be great if they could come out with an RRT-01 that could both flood the way it presently does with a shallow reflector, yet throw a whopping 167 meters like the Jb BC10 XP-G R5; two in one is a long long way away...


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## JeffN (Apr 14, 2012)

Very nice summary. 



rhpdchief said:


> Do I feel there are any cons? I think the pocket clip is too thin and it looks like it might rub against the adjusting ring if I actually installed it. I don't like to use pocket clips on a light this small when I have the option of using a P7 suspension clip. I honestly haven't given the clip a fair shake but it feels a little flimsy.



Give the clip a try. It does not rub against the ring -- it rests on the smooth area just below the ring -- and it's surprisingly robust.


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## ignign0kt (Apr 15, 2012)

Ugh I can't device between this or the V11R.
RRT01 has longer battery life on CR123s, but the V11R can use AAs too. I don't want to be buying tons of CR123s and I bet RCR123 battery life is pretty bad even on medium power since the capacity is so low. Can't even decide which interface I like better.
Someone help me decide ;\

edit: could someone with this light that uses RCR123 say how much less the battery life is?
I also heard 18350's will work... so couldn't I get a 1200mah 18350 to use in this??


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## kaichu dento (Apr 15, 2012)

ignign0kt said:


> Ugh I can't device between this or the V11R.
> RRT01 has longer battery life on CR123s, but the V11R can use AAs too. I don't want to be buying tons of CR123s and I bet RCR123 battery life is pretty bad even on medium power since the capacity is so low. Can't even decide which interface I like better.
> Someone help me decide ;\


If you need a clicky switch then there's no choice other than the V11R - if you need a super low level, not many choices on the market at all, one of which is the RRT-01.


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## e1sbaer (Apr 15, 2012)

ignign0kt said:


> Ugh I can't device between this or the V11R.
> RRT01 has longer battery life on CR123s, but the V11R can use AAs too. I don't want to be buying tons of CR123s and I bet RCR123 battery life is pretty bad even on medium power since the capacity is so low. Can't even decide which interface I like better.
> Someone help me decide ;\


I decided on the rrt01 because of V11R's faulty switch. 
If SWM brings out a version that works properly, I might get that one as well. As for now I like the rrt-01 better.


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## scottyhazzard (Apr 15, 2012)

e1sbaer said:


> I decided on the rrt01 because of V11R's faulty switch.
> If SWM brings out a version that works properly, I might get that one as well. As for now I like the rrt-01 better.



+1 

Also the reviews of people that have the RRT 01 is predominantly positive. Why 123's why not 18350's, go green & recharge.


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## ignign0kt (Apr 15, 2012)

The switch on the V11R is vaulty? How so?


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## scottyhazzard (Apr 15, 2012)

ignign0kt said:


> The switch on the V11R is vaulty? How so?



Oops! A moment of dislexia, sorta. I was thinking I was on the V10R Ti+ thread. That one has switch issues.


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## Z-Tab (Apr 15, 2012)

The V11R has the same switch issues as the V10R Ti+.


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## ignign0kt (Apr 15, 2012)

Z-Tab said:


> The V11R has the same switch issues as the V10R Ti+.



lol what issues?


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## scottyhazzard (Apr 15, 2012)

V10R Ti+ tail switch is gritty, rough, scrapes and catches so much that sometimes it does not engage and pops back off. People are posting about how they have reworked their switches or are trying to fix them. Myself and others have returned our V10R Ti+ to purchase the RRT 01.


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## ignign0kt (Apr 15, 2012)

scottyhazzard said:


> V10R Ti+ tail switch is gritty, rough, scrapes and catches so much that sometimes it does not engage and pops back off. People are posting about how they have reworked their switches or are trying to fix them. Myself and others have returned our V10R Ti+ to purchase the RRT 01.



Ah I see.. that's too bad ;\
I'm going to try to see if I can get BatteryJunction to cancel my order before they ship it tomorrow. Can't believe you can't cancel orders online


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## JML (Apr 15, 2012)

scottyhazzard said:


> V10R Ti+ tail switch is gritty, rough, scrapes and catches so much that sometimes it does not engage and pops back off. People are posting about how they have reworked their switches or are trying to fix them. Myself and others have returned our V10R Ti+ to purchase the RRT 01.


Same here. Returned mine: awful switch, crummy clip, bad screws. And too much sloppy machining. Very, very disappointing.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 15, 2012)

rhpdchief said:


> Do I feel there are any cons? I think the pocket clip is too thin and it looks like it might rub against the adjusting ring if I actually installed it. I don't like to use pocket clips on a light this small when I have the option of using a P7 suspension clip. I honestly haven't given the clip a fair shake but it feels a little flimsy. The included screws for the pocket clip make for an adequate anti-roll feature if you're like me and don't want to use the clip. Also, with the lanyard post centered the way it is almost any split ring you may try will inhibit tail standing. They are either too big to lay inside the circle or they are too small to fit through the lanyard post. I had to fabricate my own ring to be able to use this feature and still have tail standing ability.


The clip is the same as on my TC-R2, and I have been using my TC-R2 daily for over a year. The clip is plenty strong -- it just feels flimsy because it's flexible, one of the inherent properties of titanium.

I hadn't planned to use the keyring attachment on my TC-R1 when it arrives, but it's good to know it's not practical to use it with a normal split-ring. Maybe a D-ring would fit better?


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## ignign0kt (Apr 16, 2012)

Cool I ordered this instead of the V11R
I'm not sure which battery to get though. Is this safe to use in it? http://www.batteryjunction.com/ultrafire-18350.html
This looks even better http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ULTRAFIRE...CHARGER-1200mah-3-7v-/230757441032#vi-content
And can 1 battery be charged in these charger or do they need at least 2?


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## JML (Apr 16, 2012)

Got my hands on my new RRT-01 today. A stunner, in every way; it looks better than the pictures on the JB site and others. Outstanding workmanship and a well-designed light. I'm ready to buy a second when they have an OP reflector. A warm LED would be nice, too. But I'm totally satisfied with it.

No one has mentioned the lanyard. It's the nicest OEM lanyard I've ever seen. Thin section that threads through the tail stud on the light, with a wrist section is as thick as paracord, made of what feels like lycra-wrapped neoprene. There's a figure-8 sliding choke. I'd get more of these if they sold them separately.

Another nice touch is that the clip & screws ship disassembled, so there are no marks on the light if you don't want to use the clip. I mounted mine using a touch of blue loctite on the threads (thread the screws into the light without the clip first, and remove them, to chase the threads).

The lens and reflector is as dust-free and clean as I've ever seen, which is a very nice touch.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 16, 2012)

ignign0kt said:


> Cool I ordered this instead of the V11R
> I'm not sure which battery to get though. Is this safe to use in it? http://www.batteryjunction.com/ultrafire-18350.html
> This looks even better http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ULTRAFIRE...CHARGER-1200mah-3-7v-/230757441032#vi-content
> And can 1 battery be charged in these charger or do they need at least 2?


As long as the batteries have low-voltage cutoff circuits built in, or use a non-explosive chemistry like LiMN or LiFePO4, there should be no problem. Unprotected LiCoO are the only cells you really need to avoid.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 16, 2012)

JML said:


> Got my hands on my new RRT-01 today. A stunner, in every way; it looks better than the pictures on the JB site and others. Gorgeous workmanship for a well-designed light. I'm ready to buy a second when they have an OP reflector. A warm LED would be nice, too. But I'm totally satisfied with it.


Someone installed a McR20 reflector in their RRT-01. It required some sanding though. Maybe a McR18 would work better? I dunno. In any event, there are options if you're the DIY type.


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## ignign0kt (Apr 16, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> As long as the batteries have low-voltage cutoff circuits built in, or use a non-explosive chemistry like LiMN or LiFePO4, there should be no problem. Unprotected LiCoO are the only cells you really need to avoid.



err... so I shouldn't use the Ultrafire 1200mah ones that I linked?
Better cancel my order lol

Let's say I want protected cells, which are the suggested batteries that have the highest capacity?


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## Kilovolt (Apr 17, 2012)

For those of us who are looking for an OP reflector for our RRT-01's: let's not expect a great improvement in the beam quality. I have compared the RRT-01 with Sunwayman V10R Ti2 which has practically the same LED but with a LOP reflector and the rings are there, a bit less evident but still there. 

Besides in the real world this ringy beam is IMO something you can live with considering the staggering output of this tiny light.


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## kkeyser (Apr 17, 2012)

ignign0kt said:


> Let's say I want protected cells, which are the suggested batteries that have the highest capacity?



I am by no means a battery expert, but everything I read on this forum suggests going with AW brand li-ion batteries is a good way to go.


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## Lighteous (Apr 17, 2012)

Kilovolt said:


> Besides in the real world this ringy beam is IMO something you can live with considering the staggering output of this tiny light.



+1 - my thoughts exactly!


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## fyrstormer (Apr 17, 2012)

Trustfire makes a protected 18350 battery. AW makes a LiMN 18350 battery, which holds less power, but also doesn't need the added bulk of the protection circuit.


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## ignign0kt (Apr 17, 2012)

Could someone recommend a cheap charger that works well with the AW 18350 IMR? Need one that can charge just 1 battery by itself


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## robeden (Apr 17, 2012)

To me, you can't go wrong with the Nitecore i4 Intellicharger v2. For $25 it'll charge just about anything and 4 at a time. 

Spend much time around here and you won't be charging just one battery for long! :naughty:


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## ignign0kt (Apr 17, 2012)

robeden said:


> To me, you can't go wrong with the Nitecore i4 Intellicharger v2. For $25 it'll charge just about anything and 4 at a time.
> 
> Spend much time around here and you won't be charging just one battery for long! :naughty:



That charger looks pretty sweet. Does it need any spacers or anything for the AW 18350?


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## Nake (Apr 17, 2012)

The protected Trustfires are 37mm long, maybe too much length.


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## peterharvey73 (Apr 17, 2012)

ignign0kt said:


> Could someone recommend a cheap charger that works well with the AW 18350 IMR? Need one that can charge just 1 battery by itself





robeden said:


> To me, you can't go wrong with the Nitecore i4 Intellicharger v2. For $25 it'll charge just about anything and 4 at a time.



I'm not sure what's good for an AW IMR chemistry battery???


However, please read Selfbuilt's test of the new Sysmax Intellicharge 14 Version 2:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?336936-Sysmax-Nitecore-Jetbeam-i4-Intellicharger-Review-(V2)-current-voltage-comparisons

And HKJ's test of the Sysmax Intellicharge i4 Version 1 [original old]:
http://lygte-info.dk/review/Review Charger SysMax i4 UK.html

It seems that both of them say that the charge rate for a single 1x 16340 AW RCR chemistry battery is too high. Not good for the battery.
So if charging just 1x16340 at a time only, then it is best to stick to the good old Pila charger.

The i4 is good for charging two 16340's simultaneously.
The i4 is also good for charging one big 18650 too.

However, the i4 comes into it's own if recharging 3x18650's simultaneously, or recharging 4x18650's simultaneously, eg a Jetbeam RRT-3, or Nitecore TM11...




ignign0kt said:


> That charger looks pretty sweet. Does it need any spacers or anything for the AW 18350?



I received my i4 Version 2 yesterday.
It has spring-loaded self-adjusting negative terminals, so it doesn't need any spacers; the spring-loaded negative terminal is pushed back about 2mm to insert the 16340; it will just hold onto a 16340 battery...


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## peterharvey73 (Apr 17, 2012)

Come to think of it, my TM11 is a smooth reflector, and the beam isn't that bad.
It does have rings on the periphery, but the hot spot, and the spill is fine.
We just need some more white wall shots, that's all.

I think, so far, only Frenchy or Ulanosy have posted white wall shots of the RRT-01.
If more white wall shots of the RRT-01 could be posted using Selfbuilt's method of:
1) 0.75m from the wall,
2) camera 1.25m from the wall,
3) 1/25 or 1/100 of a second shutter speed, and
4) 1/27th aperture,
- that would be great.

The smooth reflector on the RRT-01 may not be too bad afterall?


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## hazna (Apr 17, 2012)

xtar wpII mk2 is pretty versatile two channel charger


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## peterharvey73 (Apr 17, 2012)

ignign0kt said:


> Could someone recommend a cheap charger that works well with the AW 18350 IMR? Need one that can charge just 1 battery by itself





robeden said:


> To me, you can't go wrong with the Nitecore i4 Intellicharger v2. For $25 it'll charge just about anything and 4 at a time.



Actually, Selfbuilt just replied.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...arger-Review-(V2)-current-voltage-comparisons
He says on Post #8, that the Sysmax i4 is just as good as the Pila charger, in recharging AW RCR 16340's.
Because the average CC current is not so different from the Pila, while the terminal voltage is even lower than the Pila, and that's even better for the 16340.

That's great news; now I don't have to lug both the Pila and the i4 around. 
I can leave one at home, and one at work...


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## Gryffin (Apr 18, 2012)

ignign0kt said:


> Could someone recommend a cheap charger that works well with the AW 18350 IMR? Need one that can charge just 1 battery by itself



Another vote for the i4 Intellicharger. You don't want to go TOO cheap on a charger; lithium ion batteries are pricey, and can go "boom" if mistreated. Saving a few $$$ on a cheap charger just ain't worth it.


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## Flight_Deck (Apr 21, 2012)

Post removed as I realized that I repeated previous information.


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## Flight_Deck (Apr 21, 2012)

I too had my doubts about this model, but after getting one and taking it on a campout, it shot RIGHT to the top of my single cell short list. 

So what about the ringy beam, this thing is awesome outdoors, especially when fed an 18350 1200 mAh cell, and single handed operation is a breeze!

Regards,
John C.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 23, 2012)

I already posted this in the TC-R1 thread, but since it applies to the RRT-01 as well, here's a picture of my TC-R1's, one with the stock reflector and one with a retrofitted OP reflector:






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/deusexaethera/flashlights/CIMG5201b.png

The OP reflector is an Arc6 reflector with roughly 1mm shaved off the front. Arc Flashlight still has ARc6 reflectors in stock for $5 apiece if anyone wants to mod their RRT-01 like this.

Your images are oversize, when you post an image please remember Rule #3 

Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels.

*Please resize and repost.* - Thanks Norm


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## Kevinkw1 (Apr 23, 2012)

JML said:


> Got my hands on my new RRT-01 today. A stunner, in every way; it looks better than the pictures on the JB site and others. Outstanding workmanship and a well-designed light. I'm ready to buy a second when they have an OP reflector. A warm LED would be nice, too. But I'm totally satisfied with it.
> 
> No one has mentioned the lanyard. It's the nicest OEM lanyard I've ever seen. Thin section that threads through the tail stud on the light, with a wrist section is as thick as paracord, made of what feels like lycra-wrapped neoprene. There's a figure-8 sliding choke. I'd get more of these if they sold them separately.
> 
> ...



Agree with the lanyard being awesome! It doesn't come with holster which is a shame, but I bought a small jetbeam holster that was for the rrt0 and put the rt01 and a spare battery in there.


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## scottyhazzard (Apr 23, 2012)

I could not find any Arc6 reflectors at the Arc6 site. I figured, hey $5 to tweak an awesome light why not. If anyone knows of a source of LOP reflectors that work without or with only a little re-work please post. 

I really like this light, I'm glad I returned my Ti+ for this one. I would like to see a clicker on this and was concerned that it would be a deal breaker for me but I'm really warming up to it. This little guy really throws out some light- and that's just with a 123 primary. I can't wait until my AW 18350 IMR's get here. 
I did not understand the posts of others raving about how low this light could go. Kinda counter culture to the flashaholic mind set, but I get it now that I have been playing with it for a while. I can check on my daughter and not disturb a soul. I really like this light.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 23, 2012)

Scotty, they don't list the reflectors on their website, you have to call them. The customer service number is on their website.

I suppose other reflectors could be used, but the benefit of using the Arc6 reflector is: 1) it's a McGizmo design, so the beam shape is pretty much perfect, and 2) it's the _exact_ same diameter as the RRT-01/TC-R1 reflector, so all it needs is some sanding on the front to shave it down. (and then careful washing with clear liquid hand soap to remove the aluminum dust.)


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## scottyhazzard (Apr 23, 2012)

Thanks, fyrstormer!


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## kaichu dento (Apr 23, 2012)

scottyhazzard said:


> I could not find any Arc6 reflectors at the Arc6 site. I figured, hey $5 to tweak an awesome light why not. If anyone knows of a source of LOP reflectors that work without or with only a little re-work please post.
> 
> I really like this light, I'm glad I returned my Ti+ for this one. I would like to see a clicker on this and was concerned that it would be a deal breaker for me but I'm really warming up to it. This little guy really throws out some light- and that's just with a 123 primary. I can't wait until my AW 18350 IMR's get here.
> I did not understand the posts of others raving about how low this light could go. Kinda counter culture to the flashaholic mind set, but I get it now that I have been playing with it for a while. I can check on my daughter and not disturb a soul. I really like this light.


The first mod I read of was using an McR20 but someone else suggested that the McR18 may work as well.

I'm probably an anomaly in these forums, but I actually don't use my light that much outside for walking, as I really like walking in the dark, but when I do use it, I prefer to have it on a level that doesn't affect my ability to see my surroundings, and the super low levels are great for that. 

I hope mine shows up today or tomorrow!


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## fyrstormer (Apr 23, 2012)

A McR20 would require lathing to reduce the outside radius. A McR18 might be too narrow, because the Arc6 reflector is 18.8mm instead of 18mm. Also the McR18 might be too shallow to reach close enough to the emitter.


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## Nake (Apr 23, 2012)

Stipple the stock one, if you feel lucky.


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## ironhorse (Apr 26, 2012)

I never thought I would remove the Nitecore EX10 from daily carry. 
The newly arrived RRT-01 has assumed its place. Infinitely variable, easy one handed operation and the super low level. 
It's going to be on a soft glow on the night stand.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 26, 2012)

I fully expected to want an OP reflector, but I think I'm happy with the stock one and the only thing I'm planning on at this point is an emitter change.

Kept one and sent the other back for exchange.


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## scottyhazzard (Apr 27, 2012)

Ok, just took it outside after charging up some 18350's from AW in CPFMarketplace... Whoa! Is that thing bright! Gets hot quick so I had to turn it down after a while but wow what a light.


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## Diablo_331 (Apr 27, 2012)

My RRT-01 is blinking off for a split second while in use. It will do this at random even when on a lower level and isn't even warm. I am thinking that this is the overheat blink that is malfunctioning but I can't be certain. Does anyone have any ideas? How is Jetbeam's customer service? I may have to send this light back for an exchange. Any input will be greatly appreciated.


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## e1sbaer (Apr 27, 2012)

The JB rrt-01 arrivered today. I've compared it a bit with my 350 lumen lumapower IncenDio which has been the edc for the last year. At 350 lumen both lights warm up equally. The beam of the rrt-01 is more ringy and floodier, tint is to my eyes about the same. Of course the JB can go that extra lumens mile and make a clear difference in output. 
The detent of the control ring is there but it's less of a "click" than I expected. That's probably because the rotating is a bit grungy. It feels like there is no grease underneath but it can be rotated one handed easily and has a well balanced resistance.
The pocket clip is quite big but I don't attach that anyway.
I was concerned about the wobbly tailstanding because of the post that sticks out. My 'flush' hds light is not a good tailstander for example. Although the post does stick out a little bit it tailstands well on the different surfaces I've tried. Let's say, the tailstanding has a stability of 70%.
I like the weight, size and output of my lumapower, in that order, but have often wished for a better UI. With the rrt-01 that wish is fore filled. This is going to be my new edc. I'm happy


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## F250XLT (Apr 27, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> Scotty, they don't list the reflectors on their website, you have to call them. The customer service number is on their website.
> 
> I suppose other reflectors could be used, but the benefit of using the Arc6 reflector is: 1) it's a McGizmo design, so the beam shape is pretty much perfect, and 2) it's the _exact_ same diameter as the RRT-01/TC-R1 reflector, so all it needs is some sanding on the front to shave it down. (and then careful washing with clear liquid hand soap to remove the aluminum dust.)



Did you get the Arc6 reflector for the P4, or K2?


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## fyrstormer (Apr 27, 2012)

The P4. I have a couple K2 reflectors as well, and when I tested them with the XM-L emitter they produced a less-attractive beam.


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## F250XLT (Apr 27, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> The P4. I have a couple K2 reflectors as well, and when I tested them with the XM-L emitter they produced a less-attractive beam.



Awesome, thank you. I have an RRT-01 coming today or tomorrow, I may as well order a couple reflectors as well.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 27, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Awesome, thank you. I have an RRT-01 coming today or tomorrow, I may as well order a couple reflectors as well.


I was positive that I was going to want a new reflector, but am surprised at how good it is. You might as well wait until you've got the light in your hands just in case.

The thing I do need to change as soon as possible is the tint and I'll probably have to go with a neutral or warm emitter since Cree has yet to release a hCRI XM-L.


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## F250XLT (Apr 27, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> I was positive that I was going to want a new reflector, but am surprised at how good it is. You might as well wait until you've got the light in your hands just in case.
> 
> The thing I do need to change as soon as possible is the tint and I'll probably have to go with a neutral or warm emitter since Cree has yet to release a hCRI XM-L.



Yes, good point. It arrived today, so I'll check it out tonight.


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## F250XLT (Apr 27, 2012)

So the battery of choice is an AW IMR 18350, or RCR123?


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## F250XLT (Apr 30, 2012)

Is anyone else interested in getting an Arc6 reflector? I was thinking we could save a few bucks on shipping if we ordered together, and had them shipped out from there.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 30, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Is anyone else interested in getting an Arc6 reflector? I was thinking we could save a few bucks on shipping if we ordered together, and had them shipped out from there.


The more I use my light the more I'm interested in going ahead and swapping reflectors, but I'm wondering if there's a chance we can eventually get JetBeam to offer an OP reflector, or get Niteye reflectors for the EYE-10, which is essentially an RRT-01 with an OP reflector already in it.

I've got one on the way and one of the first things I plan on doing is swapping the reflector out of it. 

If it appears that the Arc6 reflector is actually the best option, as opposed to the McR20 that another CPF'er put in his light, then I'll be interested in getting a couple.


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## scout24 (Apr 30, 2012)

Fyrstormer- Lathe? BAH! 1x30" beltsander! McR20S is awesome! I'm glad the Arc reflectors work, too. Good to have choices.


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## robeden (Apr 30, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Is anyone else interested in getting an Arc6 reflector? I was thinking we could save a few bucks on shipping if we ordered together, and had them shipped out from there.



If we're talking $5 or so, I'd go for that.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 30, 2012)

The Arc6 reflector is a perfect match for diameter, which is the hardest dimension to match properly, and it needs ~1-1.5mm sanded off the front to make it fit properly. The sanding dust can be washed off the reflector if it's done carefully, with clean hands and clear liquid soap. The back end of the reflector hovers over the emitter a little bit, but the stock reflector does that too; you'll notice the stock reflector has a cylindrical well at the back, and the Arc6 reflector fits the same, except it doesn't physically touch the emitter. There is a black plastic centering ring snapped onto the emitter, which I removed because I preferred the appearance of the white carrier board behind the emitter instead; it no longer served a useful purpose for centering the new reflector anyway.

I have three Arc6 P4 reflectors I can sell at-cost; PM me if you're interested.


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## fyrstormer (Apr 30, 2012)

scout24 said:


> Fyrstormer- Lathe? BAH! 1x30" beltsander! McR20S is awesome! I'm glad the Arc reflectors work, too. Good to have choices.


The McR20-S and the Arc6 reflector have essentially the same optical properties (i.e. same parabolic curve), except the Arc6 reflector is about 1.2mm smaller in diameter. It saves a lot of time; I was able to make the Arc6 reflector fit using a flat sheet of 400-grit emory paper taped to my kitchen counter, and about 15 minutes of hand-sanding while distracting myself by watching TV.


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## F250XLT (Apr 30, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> I have three Arc6 P4 reflectors I can sell at-cost; PM me if you're interested.



PM sent


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## fyrstormer (Apr 30, 2012)

PM replied.

Per my PM conversation with F250XLT, anyone who wants to replace the reflector in their RRT-01/TC-R1 should first make sure they can actually open the bezel without damaging the light. It would suck to buy a reflector (or a batch of them) only to find out the bezel can't be removed without damage. I boiled my TC-R1 head for a few minutes (inside a Ziploc bag, to prevent direct contact with the water), but ultimately I still had to resort to using strong pliers with rubber jaw-covers to get the bezel off. With the titanium version there was little risk of damage, but with the aluminum version...I don't know. Aluminum doesn't have the same resiliency as titanium has.


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## Nake (Apr 30, 2012)

I opened my Al one by hand tearing up the O-ring. There was glue on the threads and O-ring, but not much.


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## F250XLT (Apr 30, 2012)

Nake said:


> I opened my Al one by hand tearing up the O-ring. There was glue on the threads and O-ring, but not much.



I tried torquing mine by hand, but to no avail...


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## scout24 (Apr 30, 2012)

Seems to be hit and miss, both my aluminum opened no problem by hand, and I know of one Ti that was just as easy...


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## F250XLT (Apr 30, 2012)

scout24 said:


> Seems to be hit and miss, both my aluminum opened no problem by hand, and I know of one Ti that was just as easy...



Perhaps I'm just a weakling...:sick2:


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## F250XLT (Apr 30, 2012)

So I have the opposite problem with this light, than I do with my V10R Ti+...My RRT-01 doesn't turn on for about the first 30-40 degrees, anyone else have the same issue?


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## kaichu dento (Apr 30, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> So I have the opposite problem with this light, than I do with my V10R Ti+...My RRT-01 doesn't turn on for about the first 30-40 degrees, anyone else have the same issue?


Mine's the same, but I don't mind the slow turn on nearly as much as the 'end of results' while still turning at the top end. Don't know if others feel the same, but the one I didn't have to return is fairly close to perfect for me.


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## nakahoshi (Apr 30, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> So I have the opposite problem with this light, than I do with my V10R Ti+...My RRT-01 doesn't turn on for about the first 30-40 degrees, anyone else have the same issue?



I thought this was done on purpose to avoid accidental activation. I actually like the way its designed

-Bobby


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## F250XLT (Apr 30, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> Mine's the same, but I don't mind the slow turn on nearly as much as the 'end of results' while still turning at the top end. Don't know if others feel the same, but the one I didn't have to return is fairly close to perfect for me.



I agree, it's better to have it this way.



nakahoshi said:


> I thought this was done on purpose to avoid accidental activation. I actually like the way its designed
> 
> -Bobby



That is exactly what I was thinking.


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## ironhorse (Apr 30, 2012)

After using this light for a few days, why would I ever want to go back to a light with a clicky switch again?


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## kaichu dento (Apr 30, 2012)

ironhorse said:


> After using this light for a few days, why would I ever want to go back to a light with a clicky switch again?


While I keep reaching in the pocket with the 'new light' inside over the one with the Haiku, I keep wishing that it did have a switch and some detents (which is why I've already got the EYE10 on order) so that I could have the light set to the best general setting for the immediate usage at hand.

I'd love to see an aftermarket body from Steve Ku which allowed us to click the tailcap into one of two positions - one being standard operation, the other activating the momentary-capable clicky.

This has definitely got to be the absolute best UI to give to those you love who can't get used to more complicated UI's. Now if they'll come out with a AAA version, I'll be getting a bunch of them!


----------



## nakahoshi (Apr 30, 2012)

I am a huge clicky fan but there is nothing I hate more when I press a switch and no light comes out because the control ring is "Off", when you need your light quickly this is very frustrating. You than turn the ring, and either it lights up or you have to activate the clicky again.. I hated the NiteCore Infilux IFE1 because of this. At least with the Sunwayman UI you will get some kind of output no matter where the control ring is set. 

This UI is nice for a cusual EDC, a non-work EDC where it is not critical to get full output instantly. 



kaichu dento said:


> While I keep reaching in the pocket with the 'new light' inside over the one with the Haiku, I keep wishing that it did have a switch and some detents (which is why I've already got the EYE10 on order) so that I could have the light set to the best general setting for the immediate usage at hand.
> 
> I'd love to see an aftermarket body from Steve Ku which allowed us to click the tailcap into one of two positions - one being standard operation, the other activating the momentary-capable clicky.
> 
> This has definitely got to be the absolute best UI to give to those you love who can't get used to more complicated UI's. Now if they'll come out with a AAA version, I'll be getting a bunch of them!


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## fyrstormer (May 1, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Perhaps I'm just a weakling...:sick2:


They're definitely not all sealed the same. The first one I got required rubber-jawed pliers to open; the second one twisted open by hand.


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## fyrstormer (May 1, 2012)

In other news: the reflectors I had have gone  Arc should be able to sell more if anyone else wants to take a turn group-buying them.


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## somnambulated (May 1, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> So the battery of choice is an AW IMR 18350, or RCR123?



The IMR is being touted as having the best output. I messed up and ordered 2 RCR AW's. Great so far, but not a very noticeable brightness increase. I was expecting an "Aziz... Light!" moment like the RCR AW in my Eagletac D25a.


Via iPhone & Tapatalk


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## F250XLT (May 1, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> In other news: the reflectors I had have gone  Arc should be able to sell more if anyone else wants to take a turn group-buying them.



Aww, bummer.


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## fyrstormer (May 1, 2012)

Yeah, you're not the only one who thinks so. If I'd known anyone else besides me was actually interested in the Arc6 reflector retrofit, I'd have bought more of them. I was trying to avoid getting stuck with a batch of reflectors I had no use for, and, well, it worked.

The good news is, we all know Arc isn't using them, and won't complain about anyone wanting to buy them.


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## F250XLT (May 1, 2012)

Understandable...If anyone want to get in on a group buy, please PM me.


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## BarryH (May 1, 2012)

I'm in... PM sent.


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## scottyhazzard (May 1, 2012)

How does the reflector affect the throw- before I join in?


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## F250XLT (May 1, 2012)

scottyhazzard said:


> How does the reflector affect the throw- before I join in?



No doubt it will reduce it a bit, but nothing terrible I wouldn't think. I'll trade a bit of throw, for a smoothed out beam.


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## scottyhazzard (May 1, 2012)

My little RRT01 gets used in and out-doors so I benefit from throw and I would benefit from a smoothed out beam, but I don't want to sacrifice the throw. So I'm going to pass and thank you for the info. 

As for those that were posting about the IMR's- Yup it's brighter! It can light up your half of the football field nicely & then you can fry an egg with it after about 5 minutes, 'cus it's toasty.


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## kaichu dento (May 1, 2012)

I originally planned on getting an OP reflector and ended up changing my mind a couple times before finally deciding to go ahead and get one. The factory reflector does a good enough job that what I'd initially thought would be necessary turned out to be more of a preference call.

The XM-L's floody nature is partly to thank for this, and I'm sure that at least a bit of thought went into the decision making process when JetBeam had to have been aware that while many like a floody light, and lower output levels, we still want the light to reach where we point it, and some blinding output helps there too. So, floody emitter, SMO reflector and they came up with a pretty good compromise.

What I'm hoping to gain from swapping reflectors is only partially the desire for a smoother beam, and more for a hoped for increase in brightness in the flooded areas. I think anyone keeping the original reflector is making a good choice, but also feel the same about anyone swapping for OP - both good options dependent on usage and preference.


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## GordoJones88 (May 1, 2012)

somnambulated said:


> I was expecting an "Aziz... Light!" moment like the RCR AW in my Eagletac D25a.



"I'd... like to take a few pictures... for the archives."


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## fyrstormer (May 2, 2012)

scottyhazzard said:


> How does the reflector affect the throw- before I join in?


OP reflectors always reduce throw a little bit, because the focus is softer, but I don't notice any meaningful difference when I compare mine with an OP reflector and a smooth reflector, except that the OP reflector erases the beam artifacts completely.

You're losing more throw to the wide XM-L emitter than you'll ever lose from an OP reflector, though. If the same power were passing through a narrower XP-G emitter, the beam would be noticeably tighter.


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## PirateBoy (May 9, 2012)

hey guys
im a n00b here.

so you guys are saying the aw imr 18350 batteries are best for this light, right? Are these batteries the same ones that WonderLite is selling?
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...nternational-***Part-2***&highlight=IMR+18350

Then, this would be the best charger for it?
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...nternational-***Part-2***&highlight=IMR+18350http://www.ebay.com/itm/SYSMAX-Intellicharge-i4-JETBeam-Nitecore-Li-ion-NiMH-Battery-Charger-V-2-/120889646867?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c25959f13#ht_948wt_1163

Thanks all!


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## scottyhazzard (May 9, 2012)

Pirateboy, although I purchased my IMR 18350's from AW, the ones you linked are the same deal. Get them. As for the charger, just make sure that you get the second generation one if you want to be sure it can work on USA currents.


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## F250XLT (May 9, 2012)

I really need to try removing the bezel, a reflector swap is getting to be more of a necessity every day.


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## IMSabbel (May 10, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I really need to try removing the bezel, a reflector swap is getting to be more of a necessity every day.



No kidding.

I just got my RRT-01 yesterday, and the first thing i noticed was that the reflector was not bad - it was _horrible_. I am no white wall hunter, but that thing has tons of rings in the beam. If i look at the reflector, i can see that its ringy with the naked eye - it looks worse than the chapest DX lights, as if the reflector was evaoprated on some plastic mold that got too hot...

To bad considering that the rest of the light is excellent


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## Joe Talmadge (May 10, 2012)

If you don't shine it at a white wall -- say, you go into your garage and shine it into a corner -- is it still distractingly ringy?


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## IMSabbel (May 10, 2012)

Joe Talmadge said:


> If you don't shine it at a white wall -- say, you go into your garage and shine it into a corner -- is it still distractingly ringy?



Yes, but not really that strong. Most obvious close range.

I mean, it does not make this like unusable, but this is just defective reflector design/production error - totally unnecessary.


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## fyrstormer (May 10, 2012)

Joe Talmadge said:


> If you don't shine it at a white wall -- say, you go into your garage and shine it into a corner -- is it still distractingly ringy?


It's not unusable, but it _is_ distracting. _How_ distracting it is largely depends on how much you've become accustomed to having the nice smooth beams that are possible with LED lights, as compared to incans.


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## F250XLT (May 10, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> It's not unusable, but it _is_ distracting. _How_ distracting it is largely depends on how much you've become accustomed to having the nice smooth beams that are possible with LED lights, as compared to incans.




Agreed...But for me, it is more of an irritation than a distraction. All I know, is I have to get it swapped out for an OP.


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## fyrstormer (May 10, 2012)

Any luck drumming up interest in a group buy?


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## F250XLT (May 10, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> Any luck drumming up interest in a group buy?



Not really, BarryH had said he would be in for a couple...but I am assuming he already made a move. I'll probably just order a couple, in case I mess one up.


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## IMSabbel (May 11, 2012)

Btw, i was noticing that there seemed to be an awefull lot of free space around the battery in the RRT-01.

Now i checked and it seems that diameter-wise, my protected 18650 cells fit perfectly. So my question: Are there "lego" parts available that can be used with the RRT-01 to extend the battery tube?


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## fyrstormer (May 11, 2012)

No, but you _can_ buy 18350-size batteries, or an 18mm-to-16mm adaptor from Oveready to fill up the space.


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## tallyram (May 11, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> Awesome, thank you. I have an RRT-01 coming today or tomorrow, I may as well order a couple reflectors as well.


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## phips (May 14, 2012)

This light seems very scarce in shops... an reviews for that matter.
Is there a particular reason, or is it just not really on the market yet?


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## peterharvey73 (May 14, 2012)

There's very little retail. It's mainly sold on-line to reduce costs.


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## fyrstormer (May 14, 2012)

phips said:


> This light seems very scarce in shops... an reviews for that matter.
> Is there a particular reason, or is it just not really on the market yet?


New lights have been coming from Chinese manufacturers at such a rapid pace lately that it's hard for dedicated reviewers to keep up.

The bottom line is, it works very well, but the clip is too long, and it needs a textured reflector. If you can live without a clip, and if you're comfortable replacing the reflector yourself, it's an excellent light with no parts that will wear out during normal use, so it should last a very long time.


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## hazna (May 15, 2012)

I just received my light today. I'm having trouble accessing the SOS mode. From when it is on, I turn it off/on 3 times, but I still get no result? Do I have an dud, or am I doing something wrong?

Also with the clip on, has anyone experience the clip wearing the annodisation at all? I'm thinking particularly when you screw/unscrew the battery tube to put in a new battery.


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## Kilovolt (May 15, 2012)

To activate the SOS you have to turn the ring to max then go back and forth three times quickly. The gig you have to do is at max not at off.

I have bent out very slightly the clip so that it does not touch the head to be on the safe side.


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## F250XLT (May 15, 2012)

Those of you who have gotten Arc 6 reflectors, which version worked best?


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## melty (May 15, 2012)

Kilovolt said:


> To activate the SOS you have to turn the ring to max then go back and forth three times quickly. The gig you have to do is at max not at off.



Max output is not required. SOS is activated by quickly rotating the ring back and forth three times between arbitrary output levels (except for "off"). A very tiny wiggle is all that I've needed.


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## phips (May 15, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> New lights have been coming from Chinese manufacturers at such a rapid pace lately that it's hard for dedicated reviewers to keep up.


That is probably true... lots of manufacturers these days.
I just thought the RRT-01 would inspire a little more enthusiasm since it has some unique properties.

The smooth reflector bothers me but I don't want to open a +100$ EDC light (or invest any more into it).
Speaking of the price... any reason why a light that is so expensive does not come with a U2 Bin LED?


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## Kilovolt (May 15, 2012)

melty said:


> Max output is not required. SOS is activated by quickly rotating the ring back and forth three times between arbitrary output levels (except for "off"). A very tiny wiggle is all that I've needed.




You are absolutely right, I did not notice it (also did not read the instructions as usual ... )


Since we are at it let's also say that once the SOS is on you can adjust its level by rotating the ring. A low output SOS is however probably not much helpful.


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## fyrstormer (May 15, 2012)

Kilovolt said:


> You are absolutely right, I did not notice it (also did not read the instructions as usual ... )
> 
> 
> Since we are at it let's also say that once the SOS is on you can adjust its level by rotating the ring. A low output SOS is however probably not much helpful.


It would make a good "please find me I'm lost and unconscious in the woods" beacon.


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## Kevinkw1 (May 15, 2012)

hazna said:


> I just received my light today. I'm having trouble accessing the SOS mode. From when it is on, I turn it off/on 3 times, but I still get no result? Do I have an dud, or am I doing something wrong?
> 
> Also with the clip on, has anyone experience the clip wearing the annodisation at all? I'm thinking particularly when you screw/unscrew the battery tube to put in a new battery.



About the clip wearing the ano, I either pull up on the clip when unscrewing, or slip a piece of cloth under the clip when unscrewing, to avoid damaging the ano. Its an annoying design flaw!


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## Kevinkw1 (May 15, 2012)

Double post


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## hazna (May 15, 2012)

melty said:


> Max output is not required. SOS is activated by quickly rotating the ring back and forth three times between arbitrary output levels (except for "off"). A very tiny wiggle is all that I've needed.



I can not seem to get to the SOS mode. I have it on, twist off/on, twist off/on, twist off/on. Still get constantly light and no flashing. I think I might have a dud copy. Not sure if I'm going to bother going through the hassle of returning it though. 

Out of my 4 most recent flashlight purchases (from various manufacturers), 3 has some sort of issue from the box. I'm sorely dissappointed, considering I paid over $70 for each of them. I'm getting a bit over this flashllight thing anyway... time to find another hobby.


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## Kilovolt (May 16, 2012)

Hazna, we were probably not enough clear in our explanations: to activate the SOS *you must not switch off the light *but only perform three rapid changes of level at any point except off. Each time you switch it off you break the sequence.


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## Fireclaw18 (May 16, 2012)

Kilovolt said:


> Hazna, we were probably not enough clear in our explanations: to activate the SOS *you must not switch off the light *but only perform three rapid changes of level at any point except off. Each time you switch it off you break the sequence.



This.

1. Turn light to max power.
2. Slightly turn ring to the left (maybe 80% power... light must still be on) and then immediately back to max power.
3. Repeat step 2 two more times quickly.

When you successfully enter SOS mode the light will turn off briefly, but then will turn on in a couple seconds as it starts its cycle. Once you're in the SOS mode you can turn the dial down to adjust the brightness of the SOS. If you turn it off it will exit SOS mode and revert to normal mode.

As the previous poster mentioned..... when activating SOS mode, do NOT switch off the light.


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## hazna (May 16, 2012)

whoops... I was getting unnecessarily frustrated! It does work, thank you for the instructions


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## Kilovolt (May 16, 2012)

hazna said:


> whoops... I was getting unnecessarily frustrated! It does work, thank you for the instructions


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## kaichu dento (May 16, 2012)

Just to clarify:
1) It's not necessary to turn the light to max at all when trying to activate SOS.
2) Nor do you need to turn off the light
3) Once light is blinking, then once again, output level can be selected (Don't know what the runtime difference between 100lumens and 500lumens would be, but 100lumens of blinking light is very visible and uses a lot less power.)


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## IMSabbel (May 18, 2012)

Ok. Got myself some 18350 cells.

I do not own a luxmeter, so i jury-rigged a integration sphere with some while styroform box, a hamamtsu GaAs PIN diode and a kethley picoampmeter.
Current in uA for different cells at maximum mode:

CR123 (fresh): 54
AW 16340: 112
AW 18350 (IMR): 155

The 18350 is noticeably brighter, making this thing a real pocket rocket.


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## GordoJones88 (May 18, 2012)

IMSabbel said:


> I do not own a luxmeter, so i jury-rigged a integration sphere with some while styroform box, a hamamtsu GaAs PIN diode and a kethley picoampmeter.
> Current in uA for different cells at maximum mode:
> 
> CR123 (fresh): 54
> ...



Thanks, that's nice to see. 
The 16340 is ICR chemistry and the 18350 is IMR chemistry.
I'm assuming an IMR 16340 and IMR 18350 will be the same but different runtimes.
I prodded Selfbuilt for some of this kind of data in his recent JetBeam PC10 review here and here and here . 
Ima ask him to include such data on the JetBeam RRT-01 review if and when he does one.


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## F250XLT (May 21, 2012)

Now we're talkin', much improved...


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## CarpentryHero (May 21, 2012)

How'd you get an OP reflector? oo:


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## F250XLT (May 21, 2012)

CarpentryHero said:


> How'd you get an OP reflector? oo:




It's an Arc6 reflector...Same diameter, just needs to be sanded down a bit.


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## CarpentryHero (May 21, 2012)

That's awesome, wish I had a better parts drawer  

Is the lens replaceable? A diffuser lens would make this light more pleasing for me too.


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## F250XLT (May 21, 2012)

CarpentryHero said:


> That's awesome, wish I had a better parts drawer
> 
> Is the lens replaceable? A diffuser lens would make this light more pleasing for me too.



You can order an Arc6 reflector by calling Arc customer service.


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## CarpentryHero (May 22, 2012)

Oh ok cool, thanks for the heads up


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## fyrstormer (May 22, 2012)

CarpentryHero said:


> How'd you get an OP reflector? oo:


I helped.  I had an extra one I was going to use in my "spare" TC-R1 until I noticed it had the flickering problem.

Looks good F250XLT. No fitment issues, it seems? You might be able to correct for the off-centered emitter by rotating the reflector a bit at a time, and/or slowly tightening the bezel while tapping the side of the light to nudge the reflector.


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## CarpentryHero (May 22, 2012)

Cool, What ya think of using a diffuser lens?


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## F250XLT (May 22, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> I helped.  I had an extra one I was going to use in my "spare" TC-R1 until I noticed it had the flickering problem.
> 
> Looks good F250XLT. No fitment issues, it seems? You might be able to correct for the off-centered emitter by rotating the reflector a bit at a time, and/or slowly tightening the bezel while tapping the side of the light to nudge the reflector.




Yes, you did help...and I thank you. I might fuss with it a bit to try and get it centered properly, but it's pretty close now.


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## F250XLT (May 22, 2012)

CarpentryHero said:


> Cool, What ya think of using a diffuser lens?




Not necessary if you swap the reflector, but would be a quick fix if you have no plans to do so.


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## CarpentryHero (May 22, 2012)

Mine should arrive this week, I'll see if I like the beam and the UI. Its definitely more appealing than the rrt0


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## tallyram (May 22, 2012)

I'm ready to pull the trigger on one of these, but I have a question. What's the lowest initial output from this light upon first turning the ring?


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## scout24 (May 22, 2012)

I don't know of a lumen value per se, but it's about as dim as a trit vial. WAY lower than my Titan on low. You can back off even lower once it's on, but at turn on, you could stare into it in the dark and not be bothered. Both my samples are the same in this regard.


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## fishndad (May 22, 2012)

scout24 said:


> I don't know of a lumen value per se, but it's about as dim as a trit vial. WAY lower than my Titan on low. You can back off even lower once it's on, but at turn on, you could stare into it in the dark and not be bothered. Both my samples are the same in this regard.


 you should send it back obviosly yours is defective if your trit is brighter. Mine is verry bright,not quite as bright as my PC10,but brighter than your titan on low or high and $150. cheaper.


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## tallyram (May 22, 2012)

scout24 said:


> I don't know of a lumen value per se, but it's about as dim as a trit vial. WAY lower than my Titan on low. You can back off even lower once it's on, but at turn on, you could stare into it in the dark and not be bothered. Both my samples are the same in this regard.


Thanks for the response. I was just making sure that it's lower than 1 lumen at initial turn on and that it didn't turn on with a higher level and then have to be backed down to get to a "firefly" level of brightness.


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## CarpentryHero (May 22, 2012)

At first turn on my guess would be .04, and then as said above you can then turn it back down and get what I can only guess would be .001 of a lumen. Only visible after sitting in a dark room for 30+ min. 

Goes much much lower than the rrt0. Glad mine arrived in the mail today. Been thinking about it all day. The mailman must be a telepath  

I have tritis much much brighter than the lowest possible mode, I now know what you peeps mean by it goes low enough that you get an unuseable light, except maybe wavin it at someone else with night adapted eyes at 2 am 

Initial turn on nearly point blank to the iPhone on initial turn on






I was able to turn it lower than this next one





Low enough that my iPhone couldn't pick up the lowest mode that my eye dd, which is a first for my collection. 
no pwm detected by the iphone :thumbsup: 
Edit I wonder if my wife knows I've been putting my sun down for an hour do that I can play with the rrt01 in the dark.


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## tallyram (May 22, 2012)

Perfect! I already have a few flat top IMR 18350'S, but this light looks to have physical reverse polarity protection. I'm guessing that they won't work with the rrt01 and that i need AW IMR's?


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## CarpentryHero (May 22, 2012)

I don't think I own any of the flat top cells you speak of, but I'd suggest Aw cells for sure


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## tallyram (May 23, 2012)

Thank you for all of the info! My order shipped today. I can't wait to try this little guy out for myself!


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## rickypanecatyl (May 24, 2012)

I thought I was ordering one of these but made a mistake and ordered the RRT-0 instead. Now I'm curious how different they are and if the 01 really is closer to what I was looking for. 

First off, for you have both, is the 01's lowest setting really that much lower? Almost every night I read in bed after my wife has gone to sleep and I've found anything above .2 lumens bothers her. (It's a pitch black room and she's a light sleeper.) The lowest setting on the 01 is probaby about .15? - 5X more light than I need to read and just barely squeaking in under the radar of not disturbing her. Can the 01 go lower?

There's lots I really like on the RRT0, but here's some gripes I'm wondering if the 01 is better at... 
1.) I find turning on the light in the lowest setting a bit difficult. There's like a bump in the control ring making it easy to over rotate into the 20 lumenish area. A bummer when I want to keep my night vision.
2.) Turning the control ring all the way one way and pressing the tailcap switch brings it on in high where as having it turned all the other way brings it on in strobe mode. I'm of the camp that abhors strobe mode (at least when I'm looking for moonlight ), and likes the simplicity of high being on one end of the control dial and low on the other end. 

Random questions: Does the 01 really take 18350's, how's the lowest low affected when using RCR's (is it much higher) etc?

And last but not least... would it be possible in this light to switch the LED to a Nichia 219?


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## melty (May 25, 2012)

rickypanecatyl said:


> I thought I was ordering one of these but made a mistake and ordered the RRT-0 instead. Now I'm curious how different they are and if the 01 really is closer to what I was looking for.
> 
> First off, for you have both, is the 01's lowest setting really that much lower? Almost every night I read in bed after my wife has gone to sleep and I've found anything above .2 lumens bothers her. (It's a pitch black room and she's a light sleeper.) The lowest setting on the 01 is probaby about .15? - 5X more light than I need to read and just barely squeaking in under the radar of not disturbing her. Can the 01 go lower?
> 
> ...



The RRT01 goes almost comically low. You can't even tell the LED is active unless you're in complete darkness. Retaining your night vision is easy enough; the light comes on at maybe .01 lumen, but then you can dial it back until the output is imperceptible. Running 16340s has little to no effect on the lowest output. RRT01 has no strobe mode, just a hidden SOS mode.

Honestly the RRT01 sounds perfect for your requirements.


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## kaichu dento (May 25, 2012)

rickypanecatyl said:


> I thought I was ordering one of these but made a mistake and ordered the RRT-0 instead. Now I'm curious how different they are and if the 01 really is closer to what I was looking for.
> 
> First off, for you have both, is the 01's lowest setting really that much lower? Almost every night I read in bed after my wife has gone to sleep and I've found anything above .2 lumens bothers her. (It's a pitch black room and she's a light sleeper.) The lowest setting on the 01 is probably about .15? - 5X more light than I need to read and just barely squeaking in under the radar of not disturbing her. Can the 01 go lower?
> 
> ...


Like Melty said, it's so ridiculous that you can't help but laugh - at last a light that goes so low than no one, not even me or Beacon can complain about it. 

My TC-R1 (Ti version of RRT-01) goes so low that you could shine it in your wife's eyes, wake her up, and she would have to strain her eyes to see a tiny ghostly spot. 

I had an RRT-0 for a very short time and immediately got rid of it for the same reason you're having second thoughts about yours. Get an RRT-01 or TC-R1 and find how low a light can actually go without being off.


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## peterharvey73 (May 25, 2012)

The old RRT-0 XP-G R5 was my EDC from August to November 2011.

The old longer RRT-0 has a tail end switch for the overhand grip at chest height or even higher, to maximise the throw of the light; good for its 167 meters throw beam & the new RRT-0 XM-L which throws 150 meters.
The new compact RRT-01 favours the underhand handshake grip at below the waist height for flooding; matching its 113 meter flood beam.

There should be a high current standby detent in between the strobe on the far left, and the ramping on the right.
Leaving the RRT-0 on standby, the battery will only last a few days.
On standby, the RRT-01 can last a few years.

When using AW RCR 16340 3.7 volts, the RRT-0's lowest low seems to be much higher than the 0.005 lumen claimed when using a disposable primary CR123 3.0 volt battery.

The RRT-0 is significantly longer, say 15mm, and 2mm wider in bezel diameter, with a larger head, using a bigger and deeper reflector for much greater throw at a claimed 150 meters, versus the shallower reflectored RRT-01 which only claims to throw 113 meters.
However, do remember that the lateral spill of the RRT-0 is quite narrow due to the deeper reflector to diameter ratio.

The RRT-0 XM-L @ 550 lumens is driven even harder than the RRT-01 @ 500 lumens.
However, the RRT-0 can only take the standard 16340 size batteries.
The RRT-01 can take the IMR chemistry's faster discharge rate, yet bigger 18350 size battery for the same 750 mAH capacity...


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## rickypanecatyl (May 25, 2012)

Thanks guys... anyone want a good deal on a RRT 0?


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## tallyram (May 26, 2012)

Received my rrt 01 today and it's great! Not sure on how low it goes. I can always see the emitter glow in daylight no matter what level it's set to. It's for sure lower than the firefly mode on my neutron 1A. So far seems like a great little light! Extremely bright!


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## CarpentryHero (May 26, 2012)

Turn it on, then, slow as you can.... Back it down while in the dark


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## tallyram (May 26, 2012)

Yeah, that's backed off as low as can be without turning off. Tried with an IMR, ICR, and CR123.... No difference. Very pleased so far. It lights my yard almost as well as my 2.8a Nailbender XML!


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## tallyram (May 27, 2012)

Here is my light at initial turn on. Not easy to look directly at the led at this level.









Here it is turned back as far as possible without cutting off. Any further back and light cuts off. It's very difficult to get the light to this level because it abruptly cuts off!







Seems as if some received lights that can go lower than others. Battery type has no effect on the lowest level on my light, only the highest levels.


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## Darksoul (May 27, 2012)

@tallyram

I have exact the same 'problem'.


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## Dan FO (May 28, 2012)

Mine goes so low that it is just barely a glow. A tritium tube looks like the Sun compared to it.


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## CarpentryHero (May 28, 2012)

Dan FO said:


> Mine goes so low that it is just barely a glow. A tritium tube looks like the Sun compared to it.



Same, mine can go so low that my iPhone camera can't pick it up but my eyes can.


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## tallyram (May 28, 2012)

Guess this one will be going back


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## kaichu dento (May 28, 2012)

tallyram said:


> Guess this one will be going back


While it's fun to play with them going so low, I wouldn't think of the light as defective unless it's putting out more light than is allowable for your purposes, and the best way to judge is to use it in the lowest light situation you can imagine finding to be necessary. If you still find it to be too bright in such circumstances then you'll definitely be much happier if you go ahead and do a return. Should you decide to do so, make sure they know that the ultra-low level is important to you.


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## tallyram (May 29, 2012)

The problem is that when I get to a level low enough, the light turns off. That makes it extremely hard to find the level I'm looking for. If the light would go as low as others are showing, then I will have no problem getting the low level I need. Don't get me wrong, the rrt 01 is an awesome light and I don't want to send it back and have to wait and risk having the same problem again. This is my favorite light!


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## Kilovolt (May 29, 2012)

Dan FO said:


> Mine goes so low that it is just barely a glow. A tritium tube looks like the Sun compared to it.




Same here, only in the dead of the night it is possible to see if it's on or not.


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## Theatre Booth Guy (May 29, 2012)

Kilovolt said:


> Same here, only in the dead of the night it is possible to see if it's on or not.



Until I played with mine using VERY dark adapted eyes, it seemed that the light was quite low but then would go off. With adjusted eyes, mine ramps smoothly dimmer and dimmer until the control ring just reaches the "off" detente. This is the first light I've seen with a low that is actually lower than needed (the dim low is one of the reasons I love HDS lights - set to their absolute lowest). Don't know if it matters at all but mine is stuffed with an 18350 IMR. Also, both my Ti and Al versions work exactly the same but the control ring on the Ti is much smoother.


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## kaichu dento (May 29, 2012)

tallyram said:


> The problem is that when I get to a level low enough, the light turns off. That makes it extremely hard to find the level I'm looking for. If the light would go as low as others are showing, then I will have no problem getting the low level I need. Don't get me wrong, the rrt 01 is an awesome light and I don't want to send it back and have to wait and risk having the same problem again. This is my favorite light!


In that case it's definitely got to go back - sorry you didn't get a good one on the first try, but at least you know that most of them are good.


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## tallyram (May 29, 2012)

After initial turn on, I can only go back 1/3 of the way to the off detent before the light turns off. Sometimes, after lots of trial and error, I'll have it in the lowest position and it will just cut off after a second or two. Btw, I've tried cr123, ICR123, and IMR18350 with the exact same result.


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## fyrstormer (May 29, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> The RRT-0 XM-L @ 550 lumens is driven even harder than the RRT-01 @ 500 lumens.
> However, the RRT-0 can only take the standard 16340 size batteries.
> The RRT-01 can take the IMR chemistry's faster discharge rate, yet bigger 18350 size battery for the same 750 mAH capacity...


I think it's kind of odd that Jetbeam hasn't released an 18mm battery tube for the RRT-0, because the threaded collar on the back of the head is wide enough to accommodate an 18mm battery. The only limiting factor is the width of the battery tube, and those are quite inexpensive to make compared to the complex parts in the head.

Maybe someone could commission a run of 18350 or 18650 battery tubes for the RRT-0. That would light a fire under Jetbeam's *** if nothing else.


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## fyrstormer (May 29, 2012)

tallyram said:


> The problem is that when I get to a level low enough, the light turns off. That makes it extremely hard to find the level I'm looking for. If the light would go as low as others are showing, then I will have no problem getting the low level I need. Don't get me wrong, the rrt 01 is an awesome light and I don't want to send it back and have to wait and risk having the same problem again. This is my favorite light!


Yours isn't working right. Return it for service. It should get so dim you can barely see the emitter even when you wake up in the middle of the night.


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## fyrstormer (May 29, 2012)

rickypanecatyl said:


> Almost every night I read in bed after my wife has gone to sleep and I've found anything above .2 lumens bothers her. (It's a pitch black room and she's a light sleeper.)


Suggest wearing an eye mask. I am also very sensitive to light -- I wake up the instant it starts to get light outside and I hate it -- so I wear an eye mask when I sleep. Lewis-N-Clark makes some nice ones, no frilly bits, good elastic, washable, etc. Made it MUCH easier for me to sleep in the early morning. As a side benefit, it holds my eyelids shut so my eyes don't get dry at night. (that's probably *why* I'm so sensitive to light, but there's little I can do since I can't remind myself to shut my eyes when I'm unconscious.)


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## tallyram (Jun 6, 2012)

Just received my replacement light! Wow is all that i can say! This light is almost perfect! You can't ask for a lower output and the highest output is BRIGHT. The beam does have one noticeable ring, but it's nothing major. Looks like this will be my edc for a while.


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## fishndad (Jun 6, 2012)

tallyram said:


> Just received my replacement light! Wow is all that i can say! This light is almost perfect! You can't ask for a lower output and the highest output is BRIGHT. The beam does have one noticeable ring, but it's nothing major. Looks like this will be my edc for a while.



If you dont have this light you cant appreciate your comments.
Ive purshased 4 single 123s since having my RRT01 and i would give all them back befor to keep it.
Of course i dont own any high end lights from our custom guys.YET!


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## peterharvey73 (Jun 6, 2012)

With compact short pocket sized flashlights like the RRT-01, does anyone think that the next generation model should reposition the magnetic ring in front of the heat sink, sort of similar to this Eagletac D25C - so that we can hold onto a greater length of the RRT-01?
In other words, it would be easier to grip the RRT-01 if the magnetic ring was further forwards?


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## Fireclaw18 (Jun 6, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> With compact short pocket sized flashlights like the RRT-01, does anyone think that the next generation model should reposition the magnetic ring in front of the heat sink, sort of similar to this Eagletac D25 - so that we can hold onto a greater length of the RRT-01?
> In other words, it would be easier to grip the RRT-01 if the magnetic ring was further forwards?



The only problem with that is that the magnetic ring itself isn't that thin and the reflector widens towards the front of the light. If the ring is too far forward, you may have issues with not enough room inside the light for the reflector. Perhaps someone can redesign the ring to make it thinner?


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## peterharvey73 (Jun 6, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> The only problem with that is that the magnetic ring itself isn't that thin and the reflector widens towards the front of the light. If the ring is too far forward, you may have issues with not enough room inside the light for the reflector. Perhaps someone can redesign the ring to make it thinner?



Yes, I guess technically, it is just a matter of having a technological breakthrough, in being able to make the magnetic ring unit thinner, so that it can fit surrounding the big reflector, and this would effectively lengthen the body of the RRT-01 for a better grip...


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## kaichu dento (Jun 6, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> With compact short pocket sized flashlights like the RRT-01, does anyone think that the next generation model should reposition the magnetic ring in front of the heat sink, sort of similar to this Eagletac D25C - so that we can hold onto a greater length of the RRT-01?
> In other words, it would be easier to grip the RRT-01 if the magnetic ring was further forwards?


Absolutely on board for that idea and although I know space is tight, mankind seems to keep solving the impossibilities of design over and over - I think they can do it!


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## hazna (Jun 7, 2012)

Beacon of light approved low? 






(yes, but sadly runtime inefficient)


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## fyrstormer (Jun 7, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> Yes, I guess technically, it is just a matter of having a technological breakthrough, in being able to make the magnetic ring unit thinner, so that it can fit surrounding the big reflector, and this would effectively lengthen the body of the RRT-01 for a better grip...


It's not actually the thickness of the magnetic ring that matters. There are very thin neodymium magnets that could be used if necessary. The real problem is the ring needs to surround the circuit board, and the reflector places a hard limit on how far forward the circuit board can be.


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## peterharvey73 (Jun 7, 2012)

Ok, I won't hold out for a Version 2 with forward mounted magnetic ring, but I'll still hold out a little longer for an OP.
Maybe they deliberately gave it an SMO afterall to get decent throw?
My TM11 is SMO, and is only ringy on the periphery.
However, if I hold out for an OP, maybe the spill will be a bit brighter?
I'll just be patient for now.
I'm no good at dismantling flashlights...


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## kaichu dento (Jun 7, 2012)

I'm sure that additional advances in technology can eventually circumvent these very real obstacles. I forsee either a wholly new approach to the control ring, or one so miniaturized and flattened as to all but eliminate the thickness barrier.


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## fyrstormer (Jun 7, 2012)

In theory the ring itself could be magnetic, which would eliminate the need for the ring to contain a magnet inside it. However, it would have to be made of some magnetizable iron alloy for that to work. Technology can't eliminate tradeoffs, only replace tradeoffs with other tradeoffs.


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## kaichu dento (Jun 8, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> In theory the ring itself could be magnetic, which would eliminate the need for the ring to contain a magnet inside it. However, it would have to be made of some magnetizable iron alloy for that to work. Technology can't eliminate tradeoffs, only replace tradeoffs with other tradeoffs.


Overly negative assumptions seldom lead the type of progress that man has shown himself to be capable of over the ages and it's always the mind that sets out in search of the best way to overcome an obstacle that reaches the goal while others are still tallying the reasons for its impossibility. 
I surmise that it will be accomplished, though I know not when or how, because that's what optimistic people do.


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## peterharvey73 (Jun 8, 2012)

I suspect it will be accomplished too; where there's a will, there's a way...


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## fyrstormer (Jun 8, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> Overly negative assumptions seldom lead the type of progress that man has shown himself to be capable of over the ages and it's always the mind that sets out in search of the best way to overcome an obstacle that reaches the goal while others are still tallying the reasons for its impossibility.
> I surmise that it will be accomplished, though I know not when or how, because that's what optimistic people do.


Tallying the reasons why something won't work is helpful because it gives other people a list of possible solutions that probably aren't worth trying. If someone walks in here saying "hey guys, I figured it out", I won't argue with them, I'll admire their solution and help them improve their design even more if I can.

I'm an engineer. I spend my life hoping for the best and planning for the worst. Reality usually falls somewhere in the middle. But my comment about tradeoffs is not pessimism. Every change in one part of the universe must cause changes in other parts of the universe; every new procedure for doing something must have new requirements and constraints that impose limits. Domesticating cattle saved a lot of people a lot of work in farm fields, because bulls could pull the plows for them, but then they had to start growing crops to feed the cattle too. Inventing the combustion engine meant that food no longer needed to be grown to feed work animals, but then farmers had to buy fuel for the engines. Nothing is ever free. That is not pessimism, that is physics.

I'm sorry if you didn't _like_ my speculation about solutions and limitations to the "control ring thickness problem", but you not liking it doesn't mean I was being overly negative. It doesn't mean I was being negative at all, actually.


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## kaichu dento (Jun 8, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> I'm sorry if you didn't _like_ my speculation about solutions and limitations to the "control ring thickness problem", but you not liking it doesn't mean I was being overly negative. It doesn't mean I was being negative at all, actually.


No need to determine like or dislike here now. Nor do I have a problem with the devil's advocate per se, but the last line of the post I quoted left the impression that any attempt to circumvent the problems noted could only lead to more problems and left a negative atmosphere to your otherwise insightful post. I actually like the main body of most of your posts and see you as one of the deeper thinkers here who is constantly willing to think outside of the realms of 'standard consensus', and I realize you don't see any of your points to be meant in the light of negativity, even though they often tend to come across that way.


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## peterharvey73 (Jun 8, 2012)

TNotice how most AAA lights have head twist controls?
One reason to for a head twist control is to effectively lengthen the body for a better grip, in such a tiny short light that's only some 70mm long.
Look at the Nitecore AAA example below.

Also, I have a Zebralight SC600 750 OTF lumen which I EDC.
I notice that the Zebralights deliberately and cleverly "forward" position their side switches, so that their short and compact flashlights ergonomically fit in the hand better, and the side switch is right there at the head itself for the thumb to operate.

Suggestion Only:
So, how about we turn the existing RRT-01 magnetic ring into a fixed heat sink, to increase surface area for heat dissipation - as I have sketched very very roughly below.
Then we make the entire head of the RRT-01 mobile, into an infinitely continuously variable magnetic head rotary twist, but the Neodymium ring magnets still remain beneath the heat sink area and attached to the main body of the flashlight.
In other words, the mobile rotary head of the future RRT-01, would have an "internal" cylinder, that attaches "inside" the ring magnets itself, rather than the conventional magnetic ring surrounding the ring magnets.
So, instead of rotating the magnetic ring of the existing RRT-01, we would rotate the more anteriorly positioned head only.

However, the engineers don't have to squeeze the ring magnets and unit, adjacent to the wide diameter reflector.
Rather, the ring magnets stay where they presently are, but the ring control is now "internal", inside the ring magnets.

This just a very rough idea only.
Just a suggestion.
However, such an ergonomic design may be possible.
I'm sure there are people out there far more clever than me, who could easily solve this problem...

















The diagonal pencil shaded area is the mobile rotary head.
While the red diagonal shaded area is the Neodymium magnetic ring.
Thus the head has an internal cylindrical attachment to the body of the flashlight, relative to the Neodymium magnets.
This internal cylinder is then attached to an end plate that is wider than the internal cylinder, to lock the head into the body of the flashlight.
Meanwhile, the existing magnetic ring of the RRT-01 is turned into a built-in heat sink, to increase the surface area of metal for heat dissipation into the atmosphere.
I'm sure such a design is feasible, if someone could come up with the details...


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## fishndad (Jun 8, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> TNotice how most AAA lights have head twist controls?
> One reason to for a head twist control is to effectively lengthen the body for a better grip, in such a tiny short light that's only some 70mm long.
> Look at the Nitecore AAA example below.
> 
> ...



Your very good at design. however design a new Jet Beam, dont change the rrto1,Its my favorite light period.
PC10,Eoslamp SMA12,M11R, are my other 3 compact lights.


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## peterharvey73 (Jun 8, 2012)

fishndad said:


> Your very good at design. however design a new Jet Beam, dont change the rrto1,Its my favorite light period.
> PC10,Eoslamp SMA12,M11R, are my other 3 compact lights.



Sure, we'll call it an RRT-02???


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## peterharvey73 (Jun 8, 2012)

Look at the existing RRT-01 head with the longitudinal "finger/thumb" wells - it's already asking to be rotated?

One more point to consider is that more heat is emitted from the emitter, inside the existing RRT-01 magnetic ring, than from the front finger/thumb well area surrounding the reflector.
Thus, it may be even worthy to turn the magnetic ring into a fixed heat sink for superior heat dissipation, while the rotary control is in the head.
Also, if I remember correctly, the original RRT-0 XR-E R2 from several years ago, actually had a mobile head twist, as well as a magnetic ring?
If the original RRT-0 XR-E R2 did not have this, then the original RRT-2 XR-E R2 certainly did have a mobile head, as well as a magnetic ring...


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## Fireclaw18 (Jun 8, 2012)

One option is to design a much wider ring (and by wider I mean covers more distance between the head and tail of the light.... the ring does not need to stick out more so should not make the light much fatter). The part of the ring at the back of the head could have the magnet in it. It would be covered by a sleeve extending up from the body tube. However, unlike today's rings, this ring could also extend forward towards the head of the light. This is the only part of the ring that would be exposed. It would sit up near the front of the light and would be the part you actually turn to control the brightness. 

Because this part of the ring would not have the magnet in it, it could extend as far towards the front of the light as you want to make it and could be very thin.


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## peterharvey73 (Jun 8, 2012)

When we look at the photo below, this Eagletac D25C must work in a very similar way, but there is no Neodymium magnet beneath its heat sink, for infinite continuously variable brightness control...


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## Fireclaw18 (Jun 8, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> When we look at the photo below, this Eagletac D25C must work in a very similar way, but there is no Neodymium magnet beneath its heat sink, for infinite continuously variable brightness control...



I'm not a huge fan of trying to make a traditional twisty light into an infinitely variable magnetic light. You can get or make an infinitely variable twisty using QTC material. Magnets aren't needed.

However, what I really dislike about a traditional twisty is that you can't "flick" the light from off to max. In a traditional twisty if you unscrew the head too far from the body... it falls off. What's great about the control ring on the RRT-01 is that you get a hard stop at both the on and off positions. There's no chance the head will fall off. And the head doesn't feel wobbly like some traditional twisties.


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## peterharvey73 (Jun 8, 2012)

I have modified the sketch to clarify that it is not a head twisty.

It is in fact identical to the existing RRT-01, with the neck unit attached to the conventional battery carrier via annodised square threads.
However, the head with the existing finger/thumb wells is now mobile by 90 degrees, and has a connecting internal throat cylinder, which is internally attached to the inside of the mid-piece neck unit, and locked-in via a wider end plate.
This end-plate could be fastened to the internal throat cylinder by two very small screws.
In reality, the heat sinks wouldn't be as deep as I have lazily drawn, and the Neodymium magnetic ring wouldn't be as thick either, such that the internal throat cylinder housing the emitter and electronic circuitry, would be a much larger diameter cylinder.

So, in the end, we have a near identical looking flashlight, with a built-in fixed heatsink replacing the old magnetic ring, while the existing head with the existing finger/thumb wells becomes only 90 degrees mobile, with a standby micro-amperage detent, and then some 90 degrees of infinite continuously variable brightness adjustment, an U2 bin emitter, and an LOP reflector, plus a slightly shortened keyring post, with a flat square cut tail with no 45 degree bevels, for 100% tail standability with zero wobble.
In short, this is one possible way of making the head 90 degrees mobile into an infinite control switch, without having to relocate/reposition the bulky Neodynum ring magnets to the area directly around the reflector, which ultimately would compromise the size of the reflector.
Thus, we have merely interchanged the magnetic rotary control, from the neck to the front end, such that the body of the RRT-01 is effectively longer, so that we have a better grip on an 80mm long flashlight, just like the ergonomic Zebralights and the Eagletac D25C.

This design may also actually improve heat dissipation since the built-in heat sink will conduct heat much more than a mobile magnetic ring around the emitter and circular electronic board.

We should ask ourselves, presently if we hold the RRT-01 by the handshake grip, doesn't our thumb and index finger naturally and ergonomically wrap around the head area with the longitudinal finger/thumb wells, or even the stainless steel bezel for that matter?
If we think about it, the more the magnetic ring is placed closer to the tail of the RRT-01, the more difficult it will be to operate the magnetic ring via the lazy relaxing hand shake grip.
In fact, if the magnetic ring was positioned towards the tail half of the RRT-01, the RRT-01 would turn into a HDS Rotary with a tail positioned rotary control for the overhand grip...


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## Fireclaw18 (Jun 9, 2012)

Ah I see how you've done it. Looks like an interesting design, as it would allow the front of the light to twist, but with limited travel each way like a conventional magnetic control ring light, while the body can still screw to the tube like the RRT-01.

If I'm interpreting your drawing right it looks like the light would have 3 basic sections: The front section includes the reflector, driver and LED. This section would be the part that would twist to control brightness. The middle section includes the heatsink and magnet. It would be stationary. The rear section is the body tube and would screw in like in the RRT-01.

Two possible issues with this design:
1. The heatsink appears to be mounted on a different section of the light from the LED. Presumably it's going to be much less efficient at transferring heat from the LED to the exterior of the light than if it were mounted on the same section.
2. Since the driver is rotating back and forth when the brightness is changed, how is the driver going to maintain electrical contact with the battery? Is the back of the driver going to constantly slide against the top of the battery every time the light is worked?


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## peterharvey73 (Jun 9, 2012)

Wow, let me think about this.
Hopefully the real engineers can refine the basic idea and come up with something.
Presently, I don't think the RRT-01 has any heat sink at all does it?
And the heat wouldn't conduct that well to the mobile magnetic ring, would it???

I believe it is also possible for me to come up with a similar design where the LED and driver actually remain stationary.
Let me think about it over the next few days...


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## peterharvey73 (Jun 10, 2012)

Having spent all that time considering a more forward positioned rotary head infinite brightness adjustment and switch, we could just as well stick with the existing magnetic ring, surrounding the emitter and circuit board - very little difference...


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## fyrstormer (Jun 10, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> No need to determine like or dislike here now. Nor do I have a problem with the devil's advocate per se, but *the last line of the post I quoted left the impression that any attempt to circumvent the problems noted could only lead to more problems* and left a negative atmosphere to your otherwise insightful post. I actually like the main body of most of your posts and see you as one of the deeper thinkers here who is constantly willing to think outside of the realms of 'standard consensus', and I realize you don't see any of your points to be meant in the light of negativity, even though they often tend to come across that way.


That's because that was the impression I was *trying* to convey. There are *always* tradeoffs.

peterharvey73, your idea for replacing the control ring with a magnetic-sensed twisty head is intriguing, but I'm afraid I already see some problems with it. The head will need to be physically prevented from falling off the front of the light. Currently control rings are held in place by being trapped in a groove formed by two parts of the head screwing together and held together with Loc-Tite. If the entire front of the head can turn, it will need a different mechanism to keep it held in place. The commercially easiest solution to implement would be to have the two parts of the head press-fit into a ball-bearing assembly, but that would make disassembling very difficult and it also wouldn't provide enough friction to keep the head from turning accidentally. Another solution would be to have the front of the head disassemble into a forward and backward piece, which screw together to bind onto the back part of the head where the electronics are located. However, both of these solutions have problems with proper sealing against water, since the rotating interface would open at one end to the outside world and at the other end into the electronics chamber. Current control ring designs don't have that problem because the control ring is completely outside the sealed part of the head. Adding seals is possible, of course, but it will add more friction and more parts that need to be lubricated, and moving seals always leak eventually.

This, plus what Fireclaw posted, is what I mean when I say there are always tradeoffs. The question is whether the end product is worth making those tradeoffs.

I suspect your other idea of making the control ring wider so it reaches further forward over the head is the most practical solution. In fact a prototype could be made by anyone with the ability to cut a piece of tubing to fit snugly over the existing control ring.


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## kaichu dento (Jun 10, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> That's because that was the impression I was *trying* to convey. There are *always* tradeoffs.


When a compromise is made, there can be tradeoffs, but the only tradeoffs made when a proper solution is found are accurately called improvements.
A solution belongs firmly in the camp of being labeled an improvement when executed in such a manner as to have no negative aspects.


> I suspect your other idea of making the control ring wider so it reaches further forward over the head is the most practical solution. In fact a prototype could be made by anyone with the ability to cut a piece of tubing to fit snugly over the existing control ring.


I like that one too and wonder if Mr. Ku is not already thinking about offering us a head with improved tactile user interface. I'd definitely be in line waiting for one.


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## beach honda (Jun 15, 2012)

Bumping this thread. Would like to hear more opinions from people who have been putting this light through its paces. Is it durable and holding up for those of you who use your lights ruggedly?

Thanks


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## F250XLT (Jun 15, 2012)

I don't use any of my lights ruggedly, but I am loving this one...It's in my pocket right now.


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## scottyhazzard (Jun 17, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I don't use any of my lights ruggedly, but I am loving this one...It's in my pocket right now.



I am rough on lights. So far I have not dropped it onto concrete, just carpet and hospital linoleum. It lives in my pocket, taken swims with it in my pocket. I cycle IMR's through it and it sees daily use and has not given me any trouble. It has saved my family and I from a rogue doberman attack at night. For those reasons I really like it. It is a niche light, it floods a short distance with a hell of a lot of light for a short time and can get to the lowest low light output I've ever experienced. Sometimes I regret not having purchased the titanium version.


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## Kilovolt (Jun 17, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I don't use any of my lights ruggedly, but I am loving this one...It's in my pocket right now.




Same here, I got accustomed to the not-so-clean beam provided by the SMO reflector, put a 18350 inside and am EDCing my RRT-01 quite happily.


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## Diablo_331 (Jun 17, 2012)

Mine lives on my nightstand where it will stay for a long time. I just haven't found a light that will knock my current EDC out of my pocket yet. It is simply flawless for late night trips around the house. The lows are really that good!


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## fyrstormer (Jun 17, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> When a compromise is made, there can be tradeoffs, but the only tradeoffs made when a proper solution is found are accurately called improvements.
> A solution belongs firmly in the camp of being labeled an improvement when executed in such a manner as to have no negative aspects.


Okay, I understand now. You're looking at engineering from the perspective of there being a "best" solution to a problem. From that perspective, I can see why my earlier posts bothered you. There is no "best" solution to any problem, only solutions that are preferred by the people investing the time, effort, and/or money into their development.


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## F250XLT (Jun 18, 2012)

I've just come to the realization that the board on mine is completely loose, nothing but the wires holding it in.


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## beach honda (Jun 18, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I've just come to the realization that the board on mine is completely loose, nothing but the wires holding it in.




No good! Can you get a picture Tim? I've been thinking about this and he TCR-1 for a while now. News like his sucks to hear! Is it something you can fix yourself?


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## F250XLT (Jun 18, 2012)

beach honda said:


> No good! Can you get a picture Tim? I've been thinking about this and he TCR-1 for a while now. News like his sucks to hear! Is it something you can fix yourself?




I'll do you one better...


***Link to video removed***


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## scottyhazzard (Jun 19, 2012)

F250XLT how did you come to suspect it was loose? Seeing yours rattle like that makes me think that some arctic silver might be a nice addition.


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## F250XLT (Jun 19, 2012)

scottyhazzard said:


> F250XLT how did you come to suspect it was loose? Seeing yours rattle like that makes me think that some arctic silver might be a nice addition.




I was attempting to better center the emitter, by adjusting the reflector. When I removed the reflector, the little black piece between the reflector base and the board fell out. When I went to put it back on, I noticed the LE was loose. Doesn't seem to be causing a problem, once the bezel is tightened down it appears that the reflector holds it in place.


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## peterharvey73 (Jul 2, 2012)

I was looking to buy an RRT-01.
All the major retailers including eBay are out of stock with RRT-01's.

Could an updated/facelifted RRT-01 be just around the corner???
Or that's too early...


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## Force Attuned (Jul 4, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> I was looking to buy an RRT-01.
> All the major retailers including eBay are out of stock with RRT-01's.
> 
> Could an updated/facelifted RRT-01 be just around the corner???
> Or that's too early...



Theres a few still on Ebay.

TO those that have one of these, are they worth getting?

I have a Jetbeam PC10 on the way but will probably get one more single cell light to complement that with my Surefire EB1.


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## Kilovolt (Jul 4, 2012)

Force Attuned said:


> ....
> 
> TO those that have one of these, are they worth getting?




I would say yes, even if the beam is not too clean from rings RRT01 puts out an enormous amount of light and is very easy to use thanks to its magnetic ring.


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## cyclesport (Jul 4, 2012)

Force Attuned said:


> Theres a few still on Ebay.
> 
> TO those that have one of these, are they worth getting?
> 
> I have a Jetbeam PC10 on the way but will probably get one more single cell light to complement that with my Surefire EB1.



I'd like to make an alternate suggestion. I don't own the RRT-01 but do own the Sunwayman V11R and more recently bought the Niteye Eye 10 and like the control ring UI on these two lights so much they have replaced most of my other 1XCR123 lights in rotation. I started to buy the RRT-01 many times but couldn't get past the SMO reflector and it's ringy beam that many complain about. The Eye 10 is the same design as the RRT-01 but w/an OP reflector, XM-L U2 emitter, and a spring loaded ball and detent ring that gives 11 presets (even though its really an infinately variable design) and IMHO has one of the best artifact & ring free, slightly cool creamy white beam patterns Iv'e seen.

It's fit and finish is the equal of any light I own, it's over $35 cheaper than the RRT-01 depending on where you buy (China or US dealers/$10 delta) and on AW 18350 IMR's it can be driven to 662 lumens as someone posted on this forum in a review. As much as I like the V11R, it's slightly ringy beam make me leave it at home more and throw the Eye 10 in my pocket instead. The only downsides with the Eye 10 are minor but on high with 18350/16340's it does get hot fast as do almost any single cell light being over driven, the clip is a little long but designed well, and I'm not crazy about the detents, but has been a minor issue.

I've also dropped it twice at waist high once on concrete and once on ceramic tile with absolutely no damage so was happy about that. Anyway, since you're on the fence with the RRT-01, just thought I'd offer my observation.


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## Force Attuned (Jul 4, 2012)

cyclesport said:


> I'd like to make an alternate suggestion. I don't own the RRT-01 but do own the Sunwayman V11R and more recently bought the Niteye Eye 10 and like the control ring UI on these two lights so much they have replaced most of my other 1XCR123 lights in rotation. I started to buy the RRT-01 many times but couldn't get past the SMO reflector and it's ringy beam that many complain about. The Eye 10 is the same design as the RRT-01 but w/an OP reflector, XM-L U2 emitter, and a spring loaded ball and detent ring that gives 11 presets (even though its really an infinately variable design) and IMHO has one of the best artifact & ring free, slightly cool creamy white beam patterns Iv'e seen.
> 
> It's fit and finish is the equal of any light I own, it's over $35 cheaper than the RRT-01 depending on where you buy (China or US dealers/$10 delta) and on AW 18350 IMR's it can be driven to 662 lumens as someone posted on this forum in a review. As much as I like the V11R, it's slightly ringy beam make me leave it at home more and throw the Eye 10 in my pocket instead. The only downsides with the Eye 10 are minor but on high with 18350/16340's it does get hot fast as do almost any single cell light being over driven, the clip is a little long but designed well, and I'm not crazy about the detents, but has been a minor issue.
> 
> I've also dropped it twice at waist high once on concrete and once on ceramic tile with absolutely no damage so was happy about that. Anyway, since you're on the fence with the RRT-01, just thought I'd offer my observation.



Thanks for the advice.

Main reason I was considering getting one was my 2y/o son lost my Surefire E1L which I only paid US$100 for brand new not long after they first got released.

Would have loved to get another but they are way out of my price range.

Must say the ringy beam turns me off a bit.

I'll check those other lights out.


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## beach honda (Jul 4, 2012)

The ringy beam is a non issue when you need light and you aren't white wall hunting.


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## F250XLT (Jul 4, 2012)

beach honda said:


> The ringy beam is a non issue when you need light and you aren't white wall hunting.



I agree...But if it's a deal breaker, you can easily put an Arc6 reflector in it to smooth it out.


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## Child of Rawls (Jul 15, 2012)

Can you remove the lanyard lug with tools or do you need to cut it off? I hate that thing.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Jul 15, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I was attempting to better center the emitter, by adjusting the reflector. When I removed the reflector, the little black piece between the reflector base and the board fell out. When I went to put it back on, I noticed the LE was loose. Doesn't seem to be causing a problem, once the bezel is tightened down it appears that the reflector holds it in place.



I think you are a bit mistaken. What you are seeing appears to be by design. There is nothing holding the LED in place, but with the plastic guide the bezel and reflector clamp down to center the LED. It actually make swapping the LED very easy.



F250XLT said:


> I agree...But if it's a deal breaker, you can easily put an Arc6 reflector in it to smooth it out.



I have to say that I swapped an OP reflector in for a bit and then did a side by side comparison of the SMO and the OP it two lights and even though the SMO is a bit ringy, it's definitely the punchier of the two reflector and still had good flood. I've been running with the stock reflector back in now for a bit and I must say I tend to prefer that.


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## Kilovolt (Jul 16, 2012)

Child of Rawls said:


> Can you remove the lanyard lug with tools or do you need to cut it off? I hate that thing.




It seems to me that the lug is riveted to the bottom of the battery tube. You might drill it out but then you leave a hole in the light. Cutting off the lug from outside would be rather difficult because it is completely recessed to allow tailstanding.

I think you have to leave it there, you may paint it the same color of the light so you don't see it any longer.


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## Child of Rawls (Jul 16, 2012)

Kilovolt said:


> It seems to me that the lug is riveted to the bottom of the battery tube. You might drill it out but then you leave a hole in the light. Cutting off the lug from outside would be rather difficult because it is completely recessed to allow tailstanding.
> 
> I think you have to leave it there, you may paint it the same color of the light so you don't see it any longer.



It's not the color but the fact it makes the light wobbly when tail standing that bothers me. What if they just grind it down past the rim of the recessed area? What a boneheaded mistake by jet beam.


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## Kilovolt (Jul 16, 2012)

Child of Rawls said:


> It's not the color but the fact it makes the light wobbly when tail standing that bothers me. What if they just grind it down past the rim of the recessed area? What a boneheaded mistake by jet beam.



Well the lug in mine does not protrude at all and the light can firmly tailstand. In any case the lug is made of aluminum and a slight grinding of its top should be easily done.


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## F250XLT (Jul 19, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> I think you are a bit mistaken. What you are seeing appears to be by design. There is nothing holding the LED in place, but with the plastic guide the bezel and reflector clamp down to center the LED. It actually make swapping the LED very easy.



I see nothing on mine that automatically centers the emitter, not sure what you mean. If this is by design, it's the first I've heard of with a floating circuit board.


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## Nake (Jul 19, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I see nothing on mine that automatically centers the emitter, not sure what you mean. If this is by design, it's the first I've heard of with a floating circuit board.



The Quarks have a similar board. A plastic piece fits over the LED and centers it. I quess something viscos like Artic Silver is under the board for heat transfer


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## bansuri (Jul 19, 2012)

Verified. It's a quick and easy way to solve the centering issue. Also holds the board tightly against the mating surface to ensure good heat transfer.


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## fyrstormer (Jul 20, 2012)

Intriguing. Fortunately, heatsink goop behaves like adhesive when it's squished into a thin film and heated repeatedly, so even though the Arc6 reflector doesn't press against the MCPCB like the stock reflector does, there shouldn't be any problem with the MCPCB coming loose.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Jul 20, 2012)

F250XLT said:


> I see nothing on mine that automatically centers the emitter, not sure what you mean. If this is by design, it's the first I've heard of with a floating circuit board.



As a few other mention - the black piece goes over the emitter edges. The reflector fits snug in the black piece, centering the LED. And then the bezel screws everything down tight.


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## F250XLT (Jul 20, 2012)

I realize it screws down tight, but the black cover isn't the right size. Perhaps someone can explain to me how this black cover centers the emitter, because it doesn't. 












The round flat part, is much larger than the base of the reflector opening. 

Has anyone else verified that they have a light with a completely loose LE?


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## F250XLT (Jul 23, 2012)

So I take it nobody has an explanation for this, or is having the same issue?


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## F250XLT (Jul 27, 2012)

Anyone?


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## gunga (Jul 27, 2012)

I've opened up 2 TCR1s. The LED board is only held down by thermal goo and the black plastic spacer. That is normal. It should be pressed down by the reflector.

I have not checked if the plastic lip presses against the side of the reflector to help centre it, but overall, it does a good job.

It's not an issue.


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## Flucero28 (Jul 27, 2012)

The LED pcb has some round "ears" that fit into notches milled inside the head of the light keeping the LED pcb from turning while tightening the bezel, and that properly centers the pcb/LED. The OEM reflector in my light fits perfectly inside the black ring. I would say the black ring helps to keep the reflector centered onto the LED, and also keeps pressure onto the PCB for better heat transfer.


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## Ualnosaj (Aug 3, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> I was looking to buy an RRT-01.
> All the major retailers including eBay are out of stock with RRT-01's.
> 
> Could an updated/facelifted RRT-01 be just around the corner???
> Or that's too early...



It's discontinued.



________________
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## gunga (Aug 3, 2012)

Wow, already? Sheesh. I have a couple TCR1s and was on the lookout for a RRT01, and they are already discontinued?


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## jorgen (Aug 3, 2012)

Battery Junction still has at least 10 pieces in stock.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Aug 3, 2012)

Great light - hope there is a replacement that's even better.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Aug 3, 2012)

Let me update that since I just went to JetBeams website and it appears to be still listed as a "New" light - where is your source that it is Discountinued?


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## DucS2R (Aug 3, 2012)

I have one on the way from Battery Junction. Seems like I am always late to the table, bought the Fenix TK 35 days before the gen II came out and bought the Malkoff Wildcat one week before the 1300 lumen model came out. At least I got my Olight SR 95UT when it first came out...

T


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## Ualnosaj (Aug 3, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> Let me update that since I just went to JetBeams website and it appears to be still listed as a "New" light - where is your source that it is Discountinued?



From our last order (as a dealer/distributor), we're advised there is no more production of this light. What's left out there is left.



________________
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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Aug 3, 2012)

Well I guess that's pretty definitive. Did they give any reason? Does it have anything to do with the SF lawsuit which includes them that they cut production?
Ah well - gettem while you can. I've got another RRT-01 on the way from Battery Junction as a backup.


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## Ualnosaj (Aug 4, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> Well I guess that's pretty definitive. Did they give any reason? Does it have anything to do with the SF lawsuit which includes them that they cut production?
> Ah well - gettem while you can. I've got another RRT-01 on the way from Battery Junction as a backup.



Unfortunately I do not have any details I can disclose other than they might develop a model similar to it. Don't hold your breath though  I'm really fond of my RRT-01 too myself. I do like it more than the current Sunwayman offerings for now...



________________
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## somnambulated (Aug 6, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> Well I guess that's pretty definitive. Did they give any reason? Does it have anything to do with the SF lawsuit which includes them that they cut production?
> Ah well - gettem while you can. I've got another RRT-01 on the way from Battery Junction as a backup.



I think it's really unfortunate SF is busy suing other makers for loosely similar designs but can't be bothered to compete with lumen output. 


• Mobile post


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## Diablo_331 (Aug 6, 2012)

somnambulated said:


> I think it's really unfortunate SF is busy suing other makers for loosely similar designs but can't be bothered to compete with lumen output.
> 
> 
> • Mobile post



I think it's more than unfortunate.. Dare I say that they are impeding progress in our little world by suing all of these other manufacturers instead of upgrading their product line.


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## DucS2R (Aug 6, 2012)

I got my RRT 01 today and it is really a nice light with very good performance characteristics. A shame it is discontinued.

T


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## F250XLT (Aug 6, 2012)

It's a great light, one of the few I have kept in my collection.


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## somnambulated (Aug 7, 2012)

Diablo_331 said:


> I think it's more than unfortunate.. Dare I say that they are impeding progress in our little world by suing all of these other manufacturers instead of upgrading their product line.



Not that any company shouldn't be suing for designs that outright copy their work, but with a name like SureFire has to laypeople and LE, a little time spent updating their designs could blow competition out of the water, and be great for consumers like us.


• Mobile post


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## Diablo_331 (Aug 7, 2012)

somnambulated said:


> Not that any company shouldn't be suing for designs that outright copy their work, but with a name like SureFire has to laypeople and LE, a little time spent updating their designs could blow competition out of the water, and be great for consumers like us.
> 
> &#149; Mobile post



I completely agree. 
As it stands right now, my RRT-01 is still sitting on my night stand and I can't see anything replacing it but another control ring light that that go as low as it can. It's ashamed that it will no longer be produced. I wonder what the prices on the secondary market will do now? I also wonder exactly what made it so similar to a SF design? Does anyone know what patent they violated? There are a few other control ring lights on the market these days. What makes the RRT-01 different from say a Sunwayman design?


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## Kilovolt (Aug 7, 2012)

After reading the posts above I just ordered a second RRT-01 to be kept as a backup. I agree it is a light that is worth keeping.


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## Ualnosaj (Aug 7, 2012)

Or... They could be lying to make me (and us) buy more now  though I think unlikely. You'll see other stores go out of stock with no ETA once the existing factory stock is depleted. Methinks we should stock up BUT what if it's made obsolete by the better version?



________________
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## peterharvey73 (Aug 7, 2012)

I think the dispute has at least temporarily halted the entire Jetbeam range.

If it is resolved, then the range will go back into production and stock.
If not resolved, it could mean the end of Jetbeam as we know it?


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## Up All Night (Aug 7, 2012)

Ualnosaj said:


> From our last order (as a dealer/distributor), we're advised there is no more production of this light. What's left out there is left.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I must be missing something. I don't see any JB products on the site. Unless they provide SWM products as well?


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## Kilovolt (Aug 7, 2012)

Ualnosaj said:


> Or... They could be lying to make me (and us) buy more now  though I think unlikely. You'll see other stores go out of stock with no ETA once the existing factory stock is depleted. Methinks we should stock up BUT what if it's made obsolete by the better version?




Sure there will be better versions but the _true classics_ like SF U2 and L2, Nitecore Defender, Liteflux LF2, etc. will be used with pleasure for years to come. And I have to say that for me this RRT-01 belongs there.


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## JeffN (Aug 10, 2012)

Kilovolt said:


> After reading the posts above I just ordered a second RRT-01 to be kept as a backup. I agree it is a light that is worth keeping.



+1. Received my "backup" RRT-01 yesterday and found it works better than my first one. 

The first one has to be backed down from the initial "on" point to get to the lowest light level, as several other users have described. The new one _starts_ with that very low glow. Sorry to see this great light go out of production.


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## Ualnosaj (Aug 10, 2012)

More than the ramping has changed. The newest lights have a smooth ano. Unfortunately I liked the older textured ano 



________________
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## JeffN (Aug 10, 2012)

Perhaps, but not true of the one I just received from Battery Junction -- still the textured ano. In fact, my first one is a bit smoother than the new one due to pocket wear.


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## Ualnosaj (Aug 10, 2012)

JeffN said:


> Perhaps, but not true of the one I just received from Battery Junction -- still the textured ano. In fact, my first one is a bit smoother than the new one due to pocket wear.



That is certainly older stock. My picture is of one factory received direct from Jetbeam today. All of them are like that... and it's a lot of them  The serial number is much higher increment as well (from the first batch released). What's the revision of yours (first alphas in serial)? You'll also notice the logo is reversed in the pic above.



________________
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## Kilovolt (Aug 10, 2012)

Also in my case the second RRT-01 that arrived yesterday has smoother ano and reversed logo. The tint is slightly warmer and the output appears to be somewhat higher.


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## Espionage Studio (Aug 11, 2012)

Can someone post or PM me with a vendor who has a RRT01 at the lowest price? I might have to pick one up.


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## Kilovolt (Aug 11, 2012)

I bought mine in Europe from ledfiretorches.co.uk (CPF discount)


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## JeffN (Aug 11, 2012)

Ualnosaj said:


> That is certainly older stock.



You're right -- it's identical to my first one. Guess I was lucky to find a dealer with older stock.  The only difference is at the lowest level -- the new one is ridiculously low. Side by side, it makes the first one look bright. 

With both on AW 16340's for comparison (I normally use a 18350 but only have one), I turned the older one down as low as possible and turned the new one on. It turns on so low I had to cup my hand around it (in a darkened room) to make sure it was on. It's far dimmer than a trit. Too bad it doesn't tailstand flat -- it could definitely be left on as a finder light at night.


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## Nake (Aug 11, 2012)

Never could understand the fascination for a low that requires night vision goggles to see.


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## JeffN (Aug 11, 2012)

Fascinating technology is fascinating. :naughty: Not necessarily useful, tho.


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## Nake (Aug 11, 2012)

That's true, I like technology myself, but at my age I need more and more light to see things.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Aug 11, 2012)

Nake said:


> Never could understand the fascination for a low that requires night vision goggles to see.



If you don't get it or don't like it then that's fine. But for the rest of us that do get it and appreciate its use every night it becomes a feature you can't live without.


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## Ualnosaj (Aug 11, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> If you don't get it or don't like it then that's fine. But for the rest of us that do get it and appreciate its use every night it becomes a feature you can't live without.



Wait, he means the super low that's lower than a dying tritium vial. Unless you're leaving it on ultra low for locating (sub fraction lumen), then he's right 



________________
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## Nake (Aug 11, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> If you don't get it or don't like it then that's fine. But for the rest of us that do get it and appreciate its use every night it becomes a feature you can't live without.



Lighten up, it was a somewhat frivolous statement, notice the smiley at the end.


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## Espionage Studio (Aug 11, 2012)

I have the tcr-01 and I too am fascinated with the low low but it really does go a few levels below usable. Fun light though, I like more then I thought I would.


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## JeffN (Aug 11, 2012)

Nake said:


> That's true, I like technology myself, but at my age I need more and more light to see things.



Same here, amigo. :sigh: Bifocals now, trifocals some day. My appreciation for the RRT-01, and the reason it's my EDC, has to do with its high -- the low is all WTH for me. 

Diamond, please note that I said "for me".


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## fyrstormer (Aug 13, 2012)

The ability to turn the light down to thousandths of a lumen isn't necessarily useful in itself, but it reflects good design, because it means the light isn't limiting the user's ability to use it in all circumstances by having an arbitrarily-specified minimum setting that the light won't go below without shutting off. It is possible, however unlikely, that someone could use a thousandth of a lumen to review their notes while caving without stunning the animals living therein (bright light can shock some bats into falling to their deaths) -- or as I did last night, use a lumen or less to go inside a pitch-black house to get pillows to make meteor-watching more comfortable without losing my night vision.


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## Ualnosaj (Aug 13, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> The ability to turn the light down to thousandths of a lumen isn't necessarily useful in itself, but it reflects good design, because it means the light isn't limiting the user's ability to use it in all circumstances by having an arbitrarily-specified minimum setting that the light won't go below without shutting off. It is possible, however unlikely, that someone could use a thousandth of a lumen to review their notes while caving without stunning the animals living therein (bright light can shock some bats into falling to their deaths) -- or as I did last night, use a lumen or less to go inside a pitch-black house to get pillows to make meteor-watching more comfortable without losing my night vision.



As posted in another thread... using the ultra low as a night "locator" mode. Of course the magnetic control ring will sap some power unlike a true "moonlight mode" light but still good. I'll try that tonight with the TCR1.


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## fyrstormer (Aug 13, 2012)

I don't think it's very useful as a locator beacon, because it's too dim to see unless the reflector is pointed at you, and it doesn't flash so it won't get your attention by causing a periodic change in the ambient lighting. Also, the ring is so sensitive that it's basically impossible to leave the light alone with any reasonable expectation that the ring won't get bumped, causing the light to shut off or get brighter.

For my part, I bought a bunch of RRT-0s on clearance. At a quarter the price of the TC-R2, I couldn't say no. It doesn't have super-low settings, but it gets low enough to navigate a dark house without damaging my night vision, it has a clicky switch, and the clip actually fits properly. I do like the RRT-01, I think it has a lot of potential to last forever because there are no moving electrical contacts, but it really needs a short clip that doesn't scrape against the head.


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## GordoJones88 (Aug 13, 2012)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> But for the rest of us that do get it and appreciate its use every night it becomes a feature you can't live without.


 

I use the .00001 sublumen mode to keep my flea circus lit up at night.


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## peterharvey73 (Aug 19, 2012)

The RRT-01 is back in stock at major suppliers now.
Furthermore, Jetbeam's website no longer quotes criticism of Niteyes plagiarism.
I wonder what's happening now??


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## Kilovolt (Aug 19, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> The RRT-01 is back in stock at major suppliers now.
> Furthermore, Jetbeam's website no longer quotes criticism of Niteyes plagiarism.
> I wonder what's happening now??




They convinced many of us to buy a second light by letting us believe it was no longer made ... a good marketing move. 




Kilovolt said:


> After reading the posts above I just ordered a second RRT-01 to be kept as a backup. I agree it is a light that is worth keeping.


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## peterharvey73 (Aug 30, 2012)

I just purchased an RRT-01 a few days ago.
Will I be up the creek with warranty???

I hope it doesn't pre-flash like my RRT-0 S2 last year; the old RRT-0 is still a pretty good thrower, with a nice tail end switch, but the magnetic ring feels frozen after several months of no usage...


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## slowbra01 (Aug 30, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> The RRT-01 is back in stock at major suppliers now.
> Furthermore, Jetbeam's website no longer quotes criticism of Niteyes plagiarism.
> I wonder what's happening now??



I would love to purchase one. However, none of the major suppliers list them as in stock! Any updates on what happened?


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Aug 30, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> I just purchased an RRT-01 a few days ago.
> Will I be up the creek with warranty???
> 
> I hope it doesn't pre-flash like my RRT-0 S2 last year; the old RRT-0 is still a pretty good thrower, with a nice tail end switch, but the magnetic ring feels frozen after several months of no usage...



If you have a problem it is possible you may be sol.

I've never seen a pre-flash on my lights.



slowbra01 said:


> I would love to purchase one. However, none of the major suppliers list them as in stock! Any updates on what happened?



I still see it in stock at BatteryJunction.


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## peterharvey73 (Sep 7, 2012)

Jus got my RRT-01.
Wonderful light, but not perfect.
It is so small. If it was any smaller, I'd have problems holding it.
Yet it packs so much lumens, and so much heat per gram of aluminium.
The smooth reflector looks so elegant and classy.
The ring travel is perfect.
It packs so much punch per gram of metal.
It is so powerful.
The manufacturing quality, fit and finish is wonderful; near perfect.
The tail standing is perfect.
Solid clip for those who want too.
It has an useful super low low, to be used just out of bed at 3am in the morning.
This is complemented by magnetic ring for infinte control.
As for the smooth reflector and the rings? It's fine. Just a few rings. Mildly so. Not prominent at all!
I would keep the smooth reflector just for the beautiful styling, and the extra throw.
Btw, it has a wider spill than my RRT-0 S2, but not as much spill as my Zebralight SC600.
The beam is very much half way in between the old RRT-0 XP-G S2 and the SC600 XM-L.
Thus, the bigger the XM-L, the wider the practical spill, and the greater the throw.
Eg my Nitecore TM11 has an even wider spill, and more throw than the SC600.
While the SC600 has a wider spill, and supposedly more throw than the RRT-01.
Amazingly, I suspect thanks to the smooth reflector, it seems to have a brighter hotspot than my SC600? Will check this out tonight.
The RRT-01 is really great for being super compact, classy, and so much lumens and heat per gram of body weight.
The RRT-01 is a fraction of the size and weight of the SC600.
The manufacturing quality of the RRT-01 is much better than both the SC600 and TM11; the RRT-01's aluminium is beautifully milled and annodised.

On the downside, could say I wished the ring was positioned further forward, preferably in the area around the reflector where there are already 5 longitudinal thumb wells, so we can grip more of the body length of the flashlight, while turning the ring.
Alternatively, it'd be even better if the stainless steel bezel could turn into the magnetic ring, so that we can get a better grip of this short little RRT-01, which is so small, it's almost a key chain light.
The RRT-01's magnetic ring knurling should also be more abrasive so that it is easier to grip.
The ring could be a tad more hydraulic-like. Just a tad.
Wish they deleted the turbo detent; it takes too much unnecessary effort to get twist out of turbo.
I wish the SOS was activated by twisting the ring anticlockwise after the standby detent, similar to the RRT-0, because sometimes I really do ramp up and down 3 times by coincidence, and all of a sudden, the SOS is activated. Small point only.
An U2 emitter and a LOP reflector is not mandatory, but would certainly be slightly more efficient with a cleaner beam.
I wish it had a lanyard hole like a Nitecore TM11 for a lanyard, so it can still tail stand.
In other words, the lanyard/keyring hole should not be in the centre, but to the side of the tail, so that it can still tail stand.

Overall, a great compact little light.
It could be the ideal size perhaps? The AAA's are even smaller, but lack the punch. The SC600 more punch, but not as unobtrusive in the pocket.
The 01 is great for bedside.
I won't be accidentally blinding myself at 2 am in the morning, just out of bed with my SC600's 750 lumens anymore; slow long presses, and quick short presses on the SC600 has its drawbacks.
However, my SC600 and TM11 does have its own individual uses...


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## RoBeacon (Sep 7, 2012)

I really like my RRT01 only complaint is on super low I can see an artifact on the die and there is a small hair comming from under the emitter and up over it. They said they would make things right if I RMA'd it. What do y'all think? Send it back or deal with it? It honestly isn't noticable in the beam unles you are shinning at a white wall and being super anal. Suggestions please.


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## Fireclaw18 (Sep 7, 2012)

RoBeacon said:


> I really like my RRT01 only complaint is on super low I can see an artifact on the die and there is a small hair comming from under the emitter and up over it. They said they would make things right if I RMA'd it. What do y'all think? Send it back or deal with it? It honestly isn't noticable in the beam unles you are shinning at a white wall and being super anal. Suggestions please.



Given how Jetbeam seems to be in turmoil and their warranty department seems to not be functioning I suggest keeping your light as-is.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Sep 7, 2012)

RoBeacon said:


> I really like my RRT01 only complaint is on super low I can see an artifact on the die and there is a small hair comming from under the emitter and up over it. They said they would make things right if I RMA'd it. What do y'all think? Send it back or deal with it? It honestly isn't noticable in the beam unles you are shinning at a white wall and being super anal. Suggestions please.



I wouldn't send it in. The last I read Sysmax is no longer part of JetBeam distribution at all. All warranty claims are going to be directed back to the dealers.

If you can't RMA it, I would suggest trying to take care of it. The bezel is easy to unscrew. The reflector should come right out with a good bump to the tail (watch for the centering ring as it will come out too). Give the light a blast of air to clean out any dust or hairs. The take a Q-tip with rubbing alcohol and you can clean the LED lens itself - gently. Then another good blast of air to dry it and re-assemble. Shouldn't take you more than 15-20 minutes taking your time.


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## fyrstormer (Sep 8, 2012)

I clean my LEDs with Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol. The silicone dome is more durable than you think; it's the reflector that's super-sensitive to any contamination.


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## FlashKat (Sep 10, 2012)

I am a little late buying my RRT-01, but I got it at a good price. This little light ROCKS!!!!!! The beam is very acceptable with a smooth reflector....I use to worry about it, but I actually use mine beyond white wall hunting. The adjustment from low to high is amazing!!! I am debating if I want to buy a second RRT-01.


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## peterharvey73 (Sep 15, 2012)

Mid-Term Report

After a week or two, the RRT-01 still looks stunning.
The quality of annodising is one of the best on the market.
The 01 is also so tiny; it makes my Zebralight SC600 seem huge.
It also puts the SC600's annodising and lack of ss bezel to shame.
The straight parallel sides of the 01 is so pocket friendly.
The super low low is great, so too the infinite control.
By comparison, though the SC600 does not have infinite brightness control, the six discrete brightness levels of the SC600 are superbly chosen.
The smooth reflector rings are passable, and normally unnoticed.
The 01 also packs good punch; great for its size.
The RRT-01 has such a practical wide spill, unlike the Sunwayman V10R & V11R XM-L's.

However, all is not well for the 01.
My hands/fingers or forefinger and thumb is getting sore now!
The RRT-01 is ergonomically rather poor.
The SC600 fits in the hand superbly, and the side button simply falls into place, and is so easy to use.
By contrast, because it's such a short flashlight, the RRT-01's magnetic ring just doesn't fall into place; it is positioned well behind the natural resting thumb and forefinger.
Everytime we operate the magnetic ring, we must shift the 01's body forwards, then rotate the ring with the thumb and forefinger.
Thus, the RRT-01 feels like its going to fall out of the hand.
Worse, the ring in standby detent is quite stiff, such that it needs a "firm" twist of the forefinger and thumb to rotate the ring.
It needs a firm twist the whole way though the 90 degrees of travel.
Then it falls into an unnecessary turbo detent, requiring another very firm twist to get it out.
Your forefinger and thumb gets sore after a while.
The knurling on the RRT-01's magnetic ring is not abrasive enough, so you have to really really grip the ring to rotate it.
For short flashlights like the RRT-01 and the V11R's etc, the ring should be either more abrasive, or it should have deep longitudinal grooves like the TCR-01 for better grip.
More importantly, short flashlights like the RRT-01 and V11R's should have the magnetic ring placed in the "head" of the flashlight to effectively lengthen the grip on the flashlight, rather than in the neck 1/3 of the way down.

Finally, not everyone wants to use a side clip, so with the 01's lanyard in the tail centre, the RRT-01 cannot tail stand.
In reality, the RRT-01's lanyard attachment point should be at the side of the tail like the Nitecore TM11 or many Sunwaymans, rather than at the centre of the tail.


If we use the Sunwayman C10, there is a great simple to use side switch, but the tapered body may not be as pocket friendly; we have lost the super low lows and the continuous brightness control, and we have another flashlight that cannot tail stand with the lanyard or keyring attached; not to forget that some won't be too happy with the C10's cheap clip-on pocket clip either.

The Eagletac D25C is a handsome light, where the head twist control naturally falls into the hand, and there is a solid pocket clip, with a lanyard hole on the side of the tail, to make tail standing possible with a lanyard in place.
However, we must constantly flip the D25C 180 degrees to operate the tail end clicky, just like the V11R.
Furthermore, althought the lowest low is decent, there is no infinite control, and the head must constantly be twisted backwards and forwards to change modes.

My SC600 has its pros and cons too.

Presently, there is no perfect flashlight, but the manufacturers are getting ever closer.
The RRT-01 is possibly the best, and is certainly one of the best, of this imperfect bunch...


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Sep 15, 2012)

I find it interesting that you are comparing the RRT01 to the SC600 as I was thinking of selling my SC600 because I don't use it much at all and prefer the RRT01 for the times that I do. Even though I can run the SC600 on high longer, I never have a need to run it that high for that long.

In terms of the ring, I am surprised you find it that hard to turn. I find the detents just enough that it won't slip by accident, but not enough that I would ever consider it "stiff". Even so, the ring on the TCR1 is much smoother.


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## peterharvey73 (Sep 16, 2012)

I guess the ring isn't that hard to turn, and it has to have some resistance to prevent accidental operation.
However, side to side, I always find the SC600's side button easier to use than the ring, but then the side button misses out on infinite brightness control.

I find the ring much easier to operate on my RRT-0, TCR2 and V10R's, mainly because these latter examples are both longer, with more body to grip, while turning the magnetic ring...


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Sep 16, 2012)

That all makes sense to me. I've gotten pretty used to the ring control on these shorter lights (probably from so much time spent with the T1A) and I actually don't find it hard to grip a shorter light and do the ring moves single handed. The way I hold the light is with a grip of my middle and ring finger pushing the last 1/2 - 1" into the meat of my hand and then using forefinger and thumb to rotate the ring.

I spent a very interesting half hour last night playing with the SC600 and RRT01 side by side and what I observed is this:
- Initial turn-on on any level is easy on both lights to a low medium or high setting.
- While the light is running it's easier to change levels on the RRT01. If you are using it in a situation where you are running medium but you need a high blast every once in a while the SC600 UI can be a bit of a pita. From Med to High mean you either 1) turn light off and quick click it back on, or 2) hold the button through low-med-high which takes a while. To go back from high to low is either 1) click off and double-click on, or 2) hold button through low-med. It can become quite a workout if you are switching levels a lot - not something you can just give the light to anyone and say have at it.
- Give the RRT01 to anyone and say - hey just turn the ring.
- Where the SC600 gets it is in efficiency. On the lowest low it pulls just 5mA whereas I measured a solid 18mA on a 18350 in the RRT01 all the way from the lowest low up to a decent about of light in a dark room. But we already know this about mag ring UI type lights - and at the end of the day it's not a significant worry.

Both excellent lights in their own regard.


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## peterharvey73 (Sep 18, 2012)

Last night, I was watching the news, and there was a report talking about 70% increasing incidence of RSI repetitive strain injury, mainly from children overusing iPhones and iPads.
The RSI repetitive strain injury is manifested as a tendonitis, or inflamation of the tendons from overuse.

So that's what I had "playing" with my new RRT-01 - repetitive strain injury.
Under normal serious usage, this tendonitis just wouldn't happen; or is unlikely to occur.

However, looking back, I "played" with my SC600 and all my RRT-0's, RRT-2, and RRT-3 as well, but I never suffered RSI from those flashlights.
I would say that if I played with the side button on my SC600 long enough, I'd get RSI too, however because the side button has a simpler method of activation, it will take longer to cause an RSI tendonitis.
The RRT-0, RRT-2 and RRT-3, has a more complex ring activation, which can cause an RSI if I play with it for long enough; I'd say these rings are more prone to RSI than the side switch of the Zebralight.
Side buttons will always be easier to press, but side buttons will always miss out on simple infinite control; multiple control on digital side buttons requires more complex knowledge of short presses, long presses, double presses, and six double presses etc.
Despite their at least slight ergonomic disadvantages, rings give simple and infinite control.

Interestingly, I'd have to say that my new RRT-01 is most prone to RS tendonitis of my lot of Jetbeams, but that's only if you "play" with it constantly like me; during serious use, there should be no problems.
This is due to having to use both the thumb and forefinger to grip the rather slippery, yet rather stiff magnetic ring, while hanging stationary onto the shortest body with the second and maybe third fingers, against the palm of the hand.
My RRT-0 and TCR1 are actually easier to grip because the RRT-0's magnetic ring has longitudinal grooves which provide a better grip than the RRT-01's smooth knurling.
Furthermore, the RRT-0 has a longer body distal of the magnetic ring, for a much beefier grip of the flashlight.
That's why with very short AAA twisties, it's the head that turns.

I'd suggest in future, if Jetbeam were to improve on future models, they turn the existing magnetic ring into a fixed heat sink, and the turn the head into a limited 90 degree mobile magnetic ring, to effectively lengthen the grip on the flashlight distal to the ring, so that the 2nd, and maybe 3rd fingers can keep the body stationary, while the ring is twisted.
The new mobile 90 degree head itself already has six longitudinal thumb wells for a firm grip when rotating.
In the old days, apparently the heads of the Raptor Series did actually twist, hence those six thumb wells in the head...


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Sep 18, 2012)

peterharvey73 - I very seriously and honestly don't mean to critique or be critical, but for real!?!? How much are you playing with this flashlight? I mean you'd have to spend hours every night twisting that ring back and forth to get the injury you are describing - and RSI doesn't just happen overnight - it usually takes weeks to months to even years of doing the same movements.

I mean every once in a while I'll get a slight case of RSI from "over mousing" and have to take it easy for a week, but that doesn't happen very often.

Your sure you don't just have a cramp in your hand from the slightly awkward you have to hold the smaller light and use the ring?


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## peterharvey73 (Sep 18, 2012)

Like I say, the RSI doesn't happen in reality, with real life usage. In reality, no problems at all.
I've just been playing with the RRT-01 too much; it annoys my wife.
I guess in very small hands, or in a kid's hands, the RRT-01 is okay too. A perfect fit in fact.

However, when I seriously repetitively "play" with the RRT-01 for hours and hours, it does cause more RSI than the old longer RRT-0.
There is certainly a grip issue in larger hands; it does stress the fingers/wrist out more with repetitive use than the longer RRT-0, which in turn has more RSI than the side switch Zebralight SC600, but each design has it pros and cons...


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Sep 18, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> when I seriously repetitively "play" with the RRT-01 for hours and hours, it does cause more RSI than the old longer RRT-0.



Cheers :buddies: - you are a true flashaholic!


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## peterharvey73 (Sep 18, 2012)

My wife says that I sleep with my flashlights, and not with her....


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## scottyhazzard (Sep 19, 2012)

No RSI for me, I love the light and I like the UI- but I really like the UI of my Jetbeam Pro 1 V3. Even though the output is so variable or adjustable, I only use 2-3 different levels. I like the tail clickie and the IBS customization/programming of the JB Pro 1 V3. If Jetbeam could see fit to remake that light with the emitter of the RRT-01 and ability to take a 18500 IMR, that would really make me even happier.


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## hivoltage (Sep 22, 2012)

I just got this light and I believe this is going to be my new EDC carry light replacing my Zebra SC80. Brighter, I like the control ring better, and it looks better. One issue someone might help me on...I went to put the clip on and it feels like the screws bottom out before in all the way. I dont want to strip the threads so waiting on answers before I proceed. Great light though!!!!


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## scottyhazzard (Sep 22, 2012)

I didn't have that problem at all. Felt like I had room to go a smidge tighter.


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## beach honda (Sep 22, 2012)

People have compared the factory supplied rrt-1 clip to mcGizmos famous clip. Sure, similar look...but the rrt clip is extremely flimsy, does anyone else feel that way? A couple days in my pocket and the thing would be bent and loose, never that happens with mcG clips. I wonder if an ACTUAL mcG clip from the shoppe would fit? I would use the clip on this light if it actually gripped firm like the mcG clips do.

Feedback? Opinions?


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## peterharvey73 (Sep 22, 2012)

Try screwing it in a bit harder, but not excessively so.
If the screw won't go any further, do an exchange.

Try your McGizmo clip on the RRT-01...


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## Eric242 (Sep 22, 2012)

beach honda said:


> People have compared the factory supplied rrt-1 clip to mcGizmos famous clip. Sure, similar look...but the rrt clip is extremely flimsy, does anyone else feel that way? A couple days in my pocket and the thing would be bent and loose, never that happens with mcG clips. I wonder if an ACTUAL mcG clip from the shoppe would fit? I would use the clip on this light if it actually gripped firm like the mcG clips do.
> 
> Feedback? Opinions?


Exactly my thinking in regards to the RRT-01´s clip. The original McG is at least twice as thick as the Jetbeam clip.
You can replace it´s clip with a McG clip. I did after just the very first 2-3 minutes I owned the light (that´s how much I like it´s clip  ). But the McG clip unfortunatelly was rubbing on the control ring. I assume if you were to bend the McG just a very little it might prevent the rubbing. Didn´t try it with mine though (but might give it a try since I´ve been just remined).

Eric


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## beach honda (Sep 22, 2012)

Eric, 

Did you have to modify the holes on the mcG clip for it to line up properly? What screws did you use? The screw heads that came with my RRT-1 are stripped thanks to the low quality driver. Could I use the screws provided with the McG clip from the shoppe? How hard is it to bend the mcG clip? Thats a thick piece of Ti, are talkin bench vise and just a little more upward lip to get it to clear?

Thanks


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## tallyram (Sep 22, 2012)

The factory Jetbeam clip is plenty strong. I wear mine all day every day with no issues. It has been snagged numerous times at work with no damage! It has never popped out of my pocket, so it fits very securely!


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## beach honda (Sep 22, 2012)

tallyram said:


> The factory Jetbeam clip is plenty strong. I wear mine all day every day with no issues. It has been snagged numerous times at work with no damage! It has never popped out of my pocket, so it fits very securely!



Im glad the factory clip is working out for you, but after owning several mcGizmo lights and experiencing what a REAL Ti mcG clip does to secure the light to the pocket, nothing else will do for me. I have lost many lights because of inferior pocket clips such as this one. My ZebraLight sc31 clip worked pretty well, I also thought my HDS moddoo clip was pretty decent. The clip on the eagletac d25 Ti seems decent as well. But nothing beats a REAL mcG clip IMHO :shrug:


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## fyrstormer (Sep 22, 2012)

I've never lost a light for lack of a McGizmo clip. I *have* lost a few pockets as a result of McGizmo clips, though. The "bear trap" description some people give them is accurate. Now I disarm my bear-trap clips by bending them in a vise, so they have a grip similar to the Jetbeam clip. The lights ride so low in my pocket (and I always clip them *inside* my pocket) that it's almost impossible for them to fall out anyway. I've taken off my pants with a light still clipped in the pocket and tossed them down the hall to my laundry room, and the light was still in-place after they clunked against the wall and fell to the floor.


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## Eric242 (Sep 23, 2012)

beach honda said:


> Eric,
> 
> Did you have to modify the holes on the mcG clip for it to line up properly? What screws did you use? The screw heads that came with my RRT-1 are stripped thanks to the low quality driver. Could I use the screws provided with the McG clip from the shoppe? How hard is it to bend the mcG clip? Thats a thick piece of Ti, are talkin bench vise and just a little more upward lip to get it to clear?
> 
> Thanks



You don´t have to modify the holes in the light nor the ones on the McG clip (I woulnd´t know how to do it or anyone who´d be able to over here anyway). The McG clip can be bendt without a bench. I just replaced the jetbeam clip with a McG (again) and this time bendt the clip with my hands so that it does not touch the control ring anymore. The screws provided with the McG clip are too long to fit the RRT-01 and on my light they also didn´t thread in either (they look like they might have a very slightly larger diameter). So I used the screws from the RRT-01.

Here are two pictures showing how the McG doesn´t touch the body and control ring and the difference in material used on the mcG compared to the jetbeam (which rests on top the McGizmo).












Eric


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## beach honda (Sep 23, 2012)

Eric,
Great picture showing the quality difference between the REAL mcG clip and the jetbeam knockoff. Thanks for the tips!


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## daberti (Sep 24, 2012)

Has RRT-01 blinking warning when battery goes low?

TIA


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## peterharvey73 (Sep 24, 2012)

daberti said:


> Has RRT-01 blinking warning when battery goes low?
> 
> TIA



No, but as with all flashlights, as the volatge falls, it will step down, and ultimately shut off, when the battery is low, or low enough, or when the IC protection circuitry kicks in.


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## hivoltage (Sep 24, 2012)

They ALL shut off when the battery gets too low...LOL. Just had to say it!


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## Paul6ppca (Sep 24, 2012)

Does anyone know a good place to get protected 18350?


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## peterharvey73 (Sep 24, 2012)

Paul6ppca said:


> Does anyone know a good place to get protected 18350?



I'm not sure if 18350's are available protected?
In particular, IMR chemistry cannot be protected; only RCR chemistry can be protected, but not sure if any RCR 18350's exist at all?

And in any case, the conventional RCR chemistry has higher internal resistance, for a slower discharge rate, resulting in less amperage, and lumens.
The IMR unprotecteds require more careful usage and charging, but deliver greater brightness, although some have said that the naked eye can't tell the difference in the IMR's extra lumens.


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## SPNKr (Sep 25, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> I'm not sure if 18350's are available protected?
> In particular, IMR chemistry cannot be protected; only RCR chemistry can be protected, but not sure if any RCR 18350's exist at all?
> 
> And in any case, the conventional RCR chemistry has higher internal resistance, for a slower discharge rate, resulting in less amperage, and lumens.
> The IMR unprotecteds require more careful usage and charging, but deliver greater brightness, although some have said that the naked eye can't tell the difference in the IMR's extra lumens.



RCR 18350s do exist, but they're made by ultrafire/trustfire/whatever-fire. I believe they make protected ones. I use these protected RCR 18350s by a brand called CGI. They're rated at 1200 mAh but I have no way of telling, the dealer who sold them to me says they're better than the ultrafires so all I can really take is his word. I plan to switch to IMR 18350s soon. This light puts out about 100 more lumens on IMRs then RCRs, as shown in the Eye-10 review, I think that'd be noticeable. Another advantage of the IMR battery would be its lower voltage sag under load. In an unregulated light like the RRT-01 and its cousins, the IMRs should allow you to maintain access to the higher modes for a longer period of time.

EDIT: Forgot to add, protected 18350s do not fit in this light. You'll need some thin foil or extension along the head contact to get it to turn on.


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## nutcracker (Sep 25, 2012)

Here is a comparison of AW protected 16340 (ICR), Keeppower protected 18350 (ICR), AW unprotected 16340 (IMR), AW unprotected 18350 (IMR)

http://www.dampfakkus.de/akkuvergleich.php?akku1=165&akku2=32&akku3=47&akku4=29&akku5=&akku6=&a=2




Gesendet von meinem HTC One X


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## Paul6ppca (Sep 25, 2012)

Would these fit?I was concerned with out the protection circuit they would drain below threshold and ruin battery. Im pretty careful.

http://www.madvapes.com/protected-18350-lithium-ion-battery-1200-mah.html


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## SPNKr (Sep 25, 2012)

Paul6ppca said:


> Would these fit?I was concerned with out the protection circuit they would drain below threshold and ruin battery. Im pretty careful.
> 
> http://www.madvapes.com/protected-18350-lithium-ion-battery-1200-mah.html



No they won't. My cells are about 36mm and they won't fit. Since the light is unregulated you can easily tell if the battery is draining. If you turn the control ring past the halfway mark and it doesn't get brighter it's time to change the cell.


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## beach honda (Sep 25, 2012)

As long as you maintain a good charge and use quality charger/voltmeter, the cells should last a while.


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## daberti (Sep 25, 2012)

hivoltage said:


> They ALL shut off when the battery gets too low...LOL. Just had to say it!



DITTO. 
To ask it once again: what XM-L equipped flashlights in 1x 123 form factor currently run regulated either with primaries AND rechargeables AND have low battery warning and cutoff?
Please where is Eye-10 review? TIA


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## SPNKr (Sep 25, 2012)

daberti said:


> DITTO.
> To ask it once again: what XM-L equipped flashlights in 1x 123 form factor currently run regulated either with primaries AND rechargeables AND have low battery warning and cutoff?
> Please where is Eye-10 review? TIA



The review is here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?336834-Niteye-EYE10-Review


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## daberti (Sep 25, 2012)

Huge thanks 
So looks like neither D25C nor RRT-01 nor any other 1x123 XM-L flashlight performs what I ask above in post #373, am I right?



SPNKr said:


> The review is here:
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?336834-Niteye-EYE10-Review


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## nutcracker (Sep 25, 2012)

You want a single CR123 light that doesn't go into direct drive, but rather be regulated?
Me too.

The HDS Rotary is regulated even with RCR123 but it only has XP-G


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## daberti (Sep 25, 2012)

nutcracker said:


> You want a single CR123 light that doesn't go into direct drive, but rather be regulated?
> Me too.
> 
> The HDS Rotary is regulated even with RCR123 but it only has XP-G



And I already own it


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## nutcracker (Sep 25, 2012)

So we are in the same boat.

I want an XML powered light that is similar.
The PC 10 is the same size as the HDS Rotary but with XML an 550lumen
http://www.jet-beam.com/links/pro/pc10.aspx

But is it regulated?


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## daberti (Sep 26, 2012)

PC10 is NOT regulated see Selfbuilt review and discharge/runtime graph with RCR123 It is 93mm long. At such form factor tag Zebralight SC600 is the best choice. Being 107mm long and performing a U2 binned XM-L and more lumens on a single 18650 cell, which may well be either a RCR18650 or an IMR18650, as it has built in over discharge cutoff. It scores drop down as cell gets depleted and a perfectly regulated discharge curve. Mine has a perfect white (if not slighly warm) tint, which helps a lot through fog, rain and misty weather.See Selfbuilt review (of the first release, now it is even better in its third release).


nutcracker said:


> So we are in the same boat.I want an XML powered light that is similar.The PC 10 is the same size as the HDS Rotary but with XML an 550lumenhttp://www.jet-beam.com/links/pro/pc10.aspxBut is it regulated?


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## herosemblem (Oct 28, 2012)

-I just purchased an RRT-01 from a fellow enthusiast on an enthusiast forum; it is still in the mail. In the photograph provided by the seller, the color of the anodizing is basically the same as a Surefire LX2 (sort of a...bronze-grey-olive-burgundy mixture. You know exactly what I mean). It is very obviously NOT black.
-However, in many _other_ photos of the RRT-01 on the web, the anodizing is matte black, like a Surefire E2DL. The color IS very obviously black.

Can someone fill me in? Is there more than one version of the RRT-01? Thank you.


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## tallyram (Oct 28, 2012)

My copy is a nice grey color.


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## herosemblem (Oct 28, 2012)

Thank you, tallyram. 
Anyone else want to chime in on the color of their RRT-01? And perhaps why?


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## Kilovolt (Oct 29, 2012)

My two RRT-01's purchased from two different vendors in different times are exactly the same color, dark grey. Darker than an SF L1 or E1L but far from black. It is a color that is not well rendered by a picture.


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## peterharvey73 (Oct 29, 2012)

Yes, mine is dark grey too.
Not black, and not army olive green-brown either.


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## Lighteous (Oct 29, 2012)

I have two (although one was sent in for warrany work in August and I'm still waiting) and both are dark gray.


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## Fireclaw18 (Oct 29, 2012)

Mine is also dark grey.


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## daberti (Oct 29, 2012)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Mine is also dark grey.



+1


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## fyrstormer (Oct 29, 2012)

beach honda said:


> Eric,
> Great picture showing the quality difference between the REAL mcG clip and the jetbeam knockoff. Thanks for the tips!


I have several of each version and they both work fine. The difference is overstated. The Jetbeam clip is a little thinner and a little more flexible, but it's not flimsy, and I haven't heard a single report of someone breaking one or bending it beyond its elasticity threshold.

While we're on the subject, the Jetbeam clip is easier to to hook onto my pocket without lifting it using a fingernail (which obviously can't be done if I'm wearing gloves), because the taller lip at the front gives a larger target area for the edge of the pocket to slide into.


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## herosemblem (Oct 29, 2012)

Thanks guys for your comments regarding the color of your RRT-01's. 
Seems most of you own a grey or dark-grey colored light. Perhaps it's just that this dark grey _appears_ matte black in photos...


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## daberti (Oct 30, 2012)

herosemblem said:


> Thanks guys for your comments regarding the color of your RRT-01's.
> Seems most of you own a grey or dark-grey colored light. Perhaps it's just that this dark grey _appears_ matte black in photos...



Mostly never this kind of pictures are taken with proper attention. First but not limited to white balance which is pretty much important as the light that hits the flashlight may vary a lot in K temperature and also the sensors of cameras do vary a lot.
If you add to this that jpg pictures do narrow a lot the color range you may get the whole story togetther.


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## djdawg (Nov 18, 2012)

Does JetBeam have a customer service based in the USA ??
How do you find them ?


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## Ualnosaj (Nov 18, 2012)

The later ones are darker. I ordered a few direct just for me at "the end" and they're much darker than the one I got when they first came out.



________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this message.


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## Ualnosaj (Nov 18, 2012)

Duplicate post.


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## Diablo_331 (Nov 18, 2012)

I'd call mine a matte black. It resembles my Solarforce L2Ts in color very closely. Nothing grey about my sample.


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## hivoltage (Nov 22, 2012)

I just bought an Olight S10 Baton and it appears brighter than my RRT-01 but only rated 300 lumens? Now the Olight might be my favorite EDC light.


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## Ualnosaj (Nov 22, 2012)

Closer one is old. Farther one is new, direct from "Jetbeam". Color difference not too easy to see but notice the knurling and finish. Well that and the different logo orientation.









________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this message.


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## Ualnosaj (Nov 22, 2012)

One more pic.








________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this message.


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## herosemblem (Nov 22, 2012)

Thanks for the information on the color of your RRT-01's, guys. Mine arrived in the mail, and it is also matte black. Something about (as was mentioned) cameras & lighting conditions made my unit appear olive-grey in some photographs.

Anyway, I love mine. Can't wait to try it with an RCR when the batteries arrive from Mr. AW.


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## Ualnosaj (Nov 22, 2012)

herosemblem said:


> Thanks for the information on the color of your RRT-01's, guys. Mine arrived in the mail, and it is also matte black. Something about (as was mentioned) cameras & lighting conditions made my unit appear olive-grey in some photographs.
> 
> Anyway, I love mine. Can't wait to try it with an RCR when the batteries arrive from Mr. AW.



Is it smooth or rough textures, and which way is the logo up (see pic above)?



________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this message.


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## FlashKat (Nov 22, 2012)

What battery are you using? My RRT-01 is extremely bright on a 18350 battery.


hivoltage said:


> I just bought an Olight S10 Baton and it appears brighter than my RRT-01 but only rated 300 lumens? Now the Olight might be my favorite EDC light.


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## Fireclaw18 (Nov 22, 2012)

hivoltage said:


> I just bought an Olight S10 Baton and it appears brighter than my RRT-01 but only rated 300 lumens? Now the Olight might be my favorite EDC light.



My RRT-01 on IMR 18350 is waaaaaay brighter than my S10 on protected 16340 or IMR 16340.


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## peterharvey73 (Nov 22, 2012)

Incorrect post deleted.


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## hivoltage (Nov 23, 2012)

I have only used CR123 batteries on both lights. Never heard of the other batteries, I will look into them.


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## kaichu dento (Nov 23, 2012)

IMR 18350's are what I've been keeping in my TC-R1 as well.


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## hivoltage (Nov 23, 2012)

So whats the difference, they look just like CR123 batteries?


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## wacomme (Nov 23, 2012)

If you were to buy again, would you buy the RRT-01 or something else? Is there a light similar to the RRT-01, but with a better beam?


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## peterharvey73 (Nov 23, 2012)

hivoltage said:


> So whats the difference, they look just like CR123 batteries?



The conventional CR123 primary disposable battery is only 3 volts, but a big 1550 mAH capacity, depending on the actual make and model of battery.
Since power is equal to voltage multiplied by the amperage [P=VI], the lower voltage will only deliver 220 lumens max on the RRT-01.
However, the 1550 mAH capacity will give a lusty 1.5 hours of run time.

The rechargeable batteries come in two main types of chemistry.
The RCR chemistry 16340 size is 3.7 volts, but only 700 mAH capacity, and something like a max 1.5 amp discharge rate.
Not only does the RCR chemistry have a higher voltage, it also has a lower internal resistance which leads to a faster discharge rate, hence a higher amperage is delivered.
This net result is 500 lumens, but only 20 minutes of run time.

IMR chemistry batteries are also available.
IMR chemistry comes in two slightly different sizes; [because it wants to - RCR chemistry batteries could come in 18350 size too, if it wanted to].
The standard 16340 size, and the slightly fatter 18350 size for flashlights like the RRT-01 which have already been bored out.
In 16340 size, it is 3.7 volts, 550 mAH capacity, but a faster 4 amp max discharge rate.
In 18350 size, it is 3.7 volts, 700 mAH capacity, and a 6 amp max discharge rate.
Hence, the IMR chemistries have the same high 3.7 volts, but a faster discharge rate has been measured to actually output 550+ lumens on the RRT-01.
The cousin to the RRT-01, the Niteye 10 has been measured by some to output 660+ lumens from an IMR chemistry battery.

The IMR chemistry in 16340 size @ 550 mAH won't give much run time.
The IMR chemistry in 18350 size @ 700 mAH should give the same run time as an RCR chemistry 16340, or slightly more, because the RCR chemistry 16340 isn't really 700 mAH; it is actually less than 700 mAH, because AW is said to have labelled it as 750 mAH only to keep up with other manufacturer's optimistic claims - an AW RCR chemistry in 16340 size is really only around 550 mAH in capacity.


NB.
The RCR chemistry batteries can have an IC circuit for overdischarge protection.
Due to its chemistry, the IMR chemistry batteries cannot have IC protection circuits.
Thus, once an IMR powered light steps down, or blinks - do not turn it on again, and best recharge it immediately, rather than the next day; continually turning the light back on again will over-discharge the IMR chemistry battery leading to permanent battery damage.
Also note that while IMR chemistry has a faster discharge rate for a higher amperage, the RCR chemistry has more mAH capacity.
Both RCR and IMR have the same voltage...


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## peterharvey73 (Nov 23, 2012)

wacomme said:


> If you were to buy again, would you buy the RRT-01 or something else? Is there a light similar to the RRT-01, but with a better beam?



You could buy its cousin, the Niteye 10.
It has a different driver, with a higher amperage, for some 660+ lumens from an IMR chemistry 18350 size battery, versus only 550+ lumens from an RRT-01.
The Eye 10 also has an orange peel reflector for a smoother beam, without the rings.

However, personally I prefer the styling of the RRT-01.
The additional stiff detent on max turbo is already a nuisance for me on the RRT-01, yet the Eye 10 has at least half a dozen detents along its ring travel.

Small differences between the two; up to personal preferences...


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## herosemblem (Nov 23, 2012)

The "detent" on Max on the rrt01...is that really a detent? To me it does not feel like one. To me, at Max, it feels the same as on min, which I would also not describe as a detent. Maybe I am biased, though, bc I'm accustomed to the rrt0, which has (at strobe) what I would truly call a detent. Thoughts?


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## peterharvey73 (Nov 23, 2012)

hivoltage said:


> I just bought an Olight S10 Baton and it appears brighter than my RRT-01 but only rated 300 lumens? Now the Olight might be my favorite EDC light.



Yes, an Olight S10 Baton XM-L U2 on a disposable primary CR123 does output some 350 lumens as measured by Selfbuilt.
Versus an RRT-01 XM-L T6 of only 220 lumens.

However, on an RCR chemistry 16340, the Olight Baton S10 has 430 lumens and 92 meters of throw as tested by Selfbuilt:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?344172
By comparison, the Jetbeam RRT-01 on an RCR chemistry 16340 has 500 lumens, and 113 meters of throw as claimed by the manufacturer.
On an IMR chemistry 18350 size rechargeable, the RRT-01 actually outputs some 550+ lumens...


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## herosemblem (Nov 23, 2012)

Ualnosaj said:


> Is it smooth or rough textures, and which way is the logo up (see pic above)?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



My rrt01 is exactly likethe one at the bottom of your photo.
"JETBEAM" reads the same direction as the pocket clip points. Same texture too.


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## peterharvey73 (Nov 23, 2012)

herosemblem said:


> The "detent" on Max on the rrt01...is that really a detent? To me it does not feel like one. To me, at Max, it feels the same as on min, which I would also not describe as a detent. Maybe I am biased, though, bc I'm accustomed to the rrt0, which has (at strobe) what I would truly call a detent. Thoughts?



I think there are two actual detents in the ring of the RRT-01, one far left on micro-amperage standby, and the other far right on turbo.
I think there is a spring-loaded ball bearing that presses against the detents - best ask Fyrestormer - he is expert at disassembling the RRT-01.
Kaichu has pulled his Eye 10 apart too, apparently?
Apparently, the Eye 10 has many detents along its ring; something like eight, that I heard Subwoofer say???

My old RRT-0 XP-G S2 only has a detent on standby; there is no detent on max - personally, I prefer it this way.
I like how the old RRT-0 has a strobe to the left of the standby too.
I also notice that the detent on the old RRT-0 is not as stiff as the detent on the the RRT-01, and my RRT-0's ring feels better lubricated too.
Also, the wider ring, and the longitudinal grooves of the old RRT-0 is easier to grip and rotate with the forefinger and thumb, than the less grippy smoother knurling of my August 2012 RRT-01.

I was hoping and waiting on a updated RRT-01 with an U2 emitter, and an orange peel reflector, but in August, I thought production would cease with a dispute between Jetbeamlights the manufacturer, and the Sysmax distributor, so I purchased an RRT-01 just in case production really did cease.
My RRT-01 looks just like Jason Lau's upper and newer RRT-01...


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## peterharvey73 (Nov 23, 2012)

My August RRT-01 was delivered in the usual black box with magnetic flap.
However, the latest RRT-01's are delivered in a cheaper brown cardboard box, with no magnetic flap???
Could this latter box design be due to Jetbeamlight's direct manufacturing and distribution, as Sysmax distribution is phased out???


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## hivoltage (Nov 23, 2012)

Thanks for that battery class!! I guess I need to order some batteries.


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## peterharvey73 (Nov 23, 2012)

hivoltage said:


> Thanks for that battery class!! I guess I need to order some batteries.



You can purchase AW's IMR chemistry batteries esp in bigger bore 18350 size, directly from AW himself here:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...-IMR18350-IMR18490-IMR18650-IMR26500-*Part-2*
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?230876-AW-s-LiIon-Batteries-Sales-Thread-*Part-12*
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?144427-NEW-Hi-current-Protected-R123s
You can log onto the marketplace with your existing username, but you must register with a separate password.

A Jetbeam/Nitecore Intellicharger i4 4-channel charger could also recharge your RRT-3 Triple XM-L's 3x18650's simultaneously, while a Pila charger only charges two at a time, but is actually slightly better quality, in that it charges the 18650's faster, yet it charges one lone 16340 more slowly and therefore more correctly too.

To be picky, two separate Pila 2-channel chargers, actually recharges 4x18650's, faster than one i4 4-channel Intellicharger.
Meanwhile, when charging just one lone 16340, the i4 4-channel Intellichargers charge the lone single 16340 at too fast a milliamperage rate than ideal, but this is only a small point.
The Pila charger charges the 16340/18350 at a more ideal rate.

AW does sell the Ultrafire charger for only some $15 and although it is not the best charger on the market, it is fine for to most intents and purposes for recharging the RCR and IMR's in 16340, 18350, and 18650's etc.

The Intellicharger i4 4-channel chargers have spring-loaded auto-sliding negative cathode terminal clips etc, to self-adjust to fit short/long batteries.
If you go the Pila 2-channel charger route, remember to purchase 1 or 2 dummy CR123 spacer/s from AW to charge the short half sized 16340's/18350's in a long channel that is designed for 18650's:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?103143-Dummy-CR123A-AA-5-each-Shipped
The Ultrafire charger already comes with its own dummy metal spacers to fit short 16340/18350 size batteries...


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## peterharvey73 (Nov 25, 2012)

It seems that now that Jetbeamlights manufactures and distributes Jetbeams [instead of Sysmax], the boxes are now indeed different?
They are brown, without the magnetic flap, and there is the word jetbeamlight.com stamped on the box:


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## nutcracker (Nov 25, 2012)

In Europe the Jetbeam products are now Nitecore labeled under guidance of Sysmax.
The knowhow of Jetbeam stays with Sysmax and will be used for Nitecore labeled products.

Outside of Europe the Jetbeam products are Niteye labeled (and aren't under guidance of Sysmax)

(that's my last state of knowledge)


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## AVService (Nov 25, 2012)

Just got my 01 yesterday and it is much smaller than I imagined.
I am worried that it will turn on in my pocket if I carry it there.

Has anyone come up with a decent belt carry solution for this beast yet?
I prefer something with a belt clip and flap like a Rip-Offs case but maybe just because I am used to them?

It is proving tough so far to find something this small.

Thanks
Ed


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## Beckler (Nov 25, 2012)

It seems there's more talk of the 01 than the RRT-0, which I just ordered. If so, is there a main reason people prefer it? I compared the two and decided on the rrt0 for these reasons, and I'm wondering if I made the right choice?
-Tailcap switch, so easier to 'lock out'.
-50 Lm brighter
-Also takes AA with included extender.
The main advantage of the 01 seemed to be it's 2cm shorter. Am I missing something else?


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## herosemblem (Nov 25, 2012)

My rrt0 had too much ring travel and a squishy pushbutton. My unit only dimmed down to about 3 lumens. I thought that having a ring AND a tailcap button would be awesome, but I found it to be a hindrance (either then light on and then adjust ring, or adjust ring then turn light on. This requires adjusting the grip on the light, and moe time than I liked). 
The rrt1 does not have these issues, and I fond myself liking it more than the rrt0, even though, when I owned the rrt0 I never imagined I could like the ui and ergos of the rrt01.

And to answer the other gentleman's query: just use hour rrt01 with its pocket clip and you will never encounter any issues.


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## AVService (Nov 25, 2012)

herosemblem said:


> And to answer the other gentleman's query: just use hour rrt01 with its pocket clip and you will never encounter any issues.



Is this meant for me?

If so how exactly will the clip work as a Holster for me?


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## tallyram (Nov 25, 2012)

herosemblem said:


> My rrt0 had too much ring travel and a squishy pushbutton. My unit only dimmed down to about 3 lumens. I thought that having a ring AND a tailcap button would be awesome, but I found it to be a hindrance (either then light on and then adjust ring, or adjust ring then turn light on. This requires adjusting the grip on the light, and moe time than I liked).
> The rrt1 does not have these issues, and I fond myself liking it more than the rrt0, even though, when I owned the rrt0 I never imagined I could like the ui and ergos of the rrt01.
> 
> And to answer the other gentleman's query: just use hour rrt01 with its pocket clip and you will never encounter any issues.


+1

Zero issues with pocket clip. It is plenty strong enough and holds pockets well! Mine goes with me 100% of the time since I bought it in May. Like I said, zero issues! You'll fall in love with this light!

Also, I've never had any kind of accidental activation. The control ring has a very positive detent at the off position and the max position.


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## AVService (Nov 25, 2012)

tallyram said:


> +1
> 
> Zero issues with pocket clip. It is plenty strong enough and holds pockets well! Mine goes with me 100% of the time since I bought it in May. Like I said, zero issues! You'll fall in love with this light!



How can I make it any more clear?
I am looking for a Holster.


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## tallyram (Nov 25, 2012)

AVService said:


> How can I make it any more clear?
> I am looking for a Holster.


Sorry. I thought people bought tiny pocket lights to carry in their pockets? Good luck finding a holster for your light. (No sarcasm implied)


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## Ualnosaj (Nov 25, 2012)

herosemblem said:


> My rrt0 had too much ring travel and a squishy pushbutton. My unit only dimmed down to about 3 lumens. I thought that having a ring AND a tailcap button would be awesome, but I found it to be a hindrance (either then light on and then adjust ring, or adjust ring then turn light on. This requires adjusting the grip on the light, and moe time than I liked).
> The rrt1 does not have these issues, and I fond myself liking it more than the rrt0, even though, when I owned the rrt0 I never imagined I could like the ui and ergos of the rrt01.
> 
> And to answer the other gentleman's query: just use hour rrt01 with its pocket clip and you will never encounter any issues.



I love both models of lights 









________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this message.


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## kaichu dento (Nov 25, 2012)

AVService said:


> How can I make it any more clear?
> I am looking for a Holster.


It's plenty clear - now go look for one and stop getting upset that someone gave you information that was other than you'd been hoping for, in an attempt to be helpful. Your holster search is applicable in association with the RRT-01, but is not the sole focus of this thread.


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## AVService (Nov 25, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> It's plenty clear - now go look for one and stop getting upset that someone gave you information that was other than you'd been hoping for, in an attempt to be helpful. Your holster search is applicable in association with the RRT-01, but is not the sole focus of this thread.



I am not upset,just confused.

And thanks for the helpful response.


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## herosemblem (Nov 25, 2012)

Regarding a holster for your rrt01... I'll have to wait until I return home to see if my rrt01 will fit in my eagletac d25c mini holster. It appears to be very well made and quite tiny. As an aside,typing on a kindle fire should be the sentence our society gives to our most severe convicts. It is he'll.


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## djdawg (Nov 25, 2012)

AVService said:


> I am not upset,just confused.



Welcome to my world ......... this light thing is killing me ..........LOL


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## AVService (Nov 25, 2012)

djdawg said:


> Welcome to my world ......... this light thing is killing me ..........LOL



I truly feel/share your pain.

But in a good way too!


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## FlashKat (Nov 25, 2012)

http://ripoffs.com/flashpage/flashpage.html
http://ripoffs.com/security.htm


AVService said:


> How can I make it any more clear?
> I am looking for a Holster.


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## Beckler (Nov 25, 2012)

Ualnosaj said:


> I love both models of lights
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Nice..and I thought having 1 of each (rrt0/rrt01) would be too much!


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## AVService (Nov 25, 2012)

herosemblem said:


> Regarding a holster for your rrt01... I'll have to wait until I return home to see if my rrt01 will fit in my eagletac d25c mini holster. It appears to be very well made and quite tiny. As an aside,typing on a kindle fire should be the sentence our society gives to our most severe convicts. It is he'll.



Thanks I appreciate it.
I thought it was coming with a holster but I have been looking at so many different lights it is too easy to get them confused.

Also I have tried using the clip inside the top of my right pocket and as I feared the light will come out of the off detent just in the course of the day.
It also feels strange when sitting down sometimes and pushes into my leg and it scrapes the keys every time I take them out too.

I really like the light though and will be calling Thor soon for a custom if I come up blank off the shelf.
I probably will look into a custom really either way,it will be nice if I can carry the light,battery and Multi Tool together as I always have before.

Ed


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## AVService (Nov 25, 2012)

FlashKat said:


> http://ripoffs.com/flashpage/flashpage.html
> http://ripoffs.com/security.htm



Nothing small enough from what I can tell?


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## peterharvey73 (Nov 25, 2012)

I just put the tiny RRT-01 in my pocket.
Else you can use the belt clip directly on your belt.
Sunwayman does have a lovely case for their V10R and V11R, and the RRT-01 should fit well in those cases; contact Sunwayman and see if you can buy it as an accessory, however there may be the word "Sunwayman" on the case? I can't remember exactly...


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## PCS (Nov 25, 2012)

AVService said:


> How can I make it any more clear?
> I am looking for a Holster.



The holster for the Jetbeam PC10 will fit the RRT-01 and _a bunch_ of other lights. A little snugly at first, but it stretches quickly, and I'm currently using it with my RRT-01. It used to be available separately, but I haven't seen one for sale in a while.

You have to be careful if you search for it. Jetbeam also sells a second "small holster". It fits the PA10 and the RRT-0. It's easy to find, but it's too long for the RRT-01. Again, you want the holster for the PC10.


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## AVService (Nov 25, 2012)

PCS said:


> The holster for the Jetbeam PC10 will fit the RRT-01 and _a bunch_ of other lights. A little snugly at first, but it stretches quickly, and I'm currently using it with my RRT-01. It used to be available separately, but I haven't seen one for sale in a while.
> 
> You have to be careful if you search for it. Jetbeam also sells a second "small holster". It fits the PA10 and the RRT-0. It's easy to find, but it's too long for the RRT-01. Again, you want the holster for the PC10.



Thanks

The hunt is on!


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## tallyram (Nov 25, 2012)

AVService said:


> Thanks I appreciate it.
> I thought it was coming with a holster but I have been looking at so many different lights it is too easy to get them confused.
> 
> Also I have tried using the clip inside the top of my right pocket and as I feared the light will come out of the off detent just in the course of the day.
> ...


How did you get the light to turn on in your pocket? Very curious.


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## kaichu dento (Nov 25, 2012)

AVService said:


> I am not upset,just confused.
> 
> And thanks for the helpful response.


Well for what it's worth, I've got a pouch I can send you to at least get you through if you want to PM your address. Just let me know if you prefer open top or flap style.


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## AVService (Nov 25, 2012)

tallyram said:


> How did you get the light to turn on in your pocket? Very curious.



I certainly wish I knew?

I carry a lot of crap in my pockets,mainly keys and the ring that controls the light is just too easy to turn somehow.
Aside from that I a just a holster wearer anyway.

I have a Rip-Off that will carry a Multi-Tool and a AA MAg sized light but most of the better lights are too big around to slide in where the Mag goes.


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## AVService (Nov 25, 2012)

kaichu dento said:


> Well for what it's worth, I've got a pouch I can send you to at least get you through if you want to PM your address. Just let me know if you prefer open top or flap style.



I appreciate the offer but I will try first to get something local once the stores are open this week and I am not fighting the crowds.
I think the light is about the size of a 12g shotgun shell? So I think I should be able to find something around that will work?

I also have some Ballistic Nylon and thread and I am not afraid to give it a shot myself if it comes to it.

Ed


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## Cartman (Nov 27, 2012)

AVService said:


> How can I make it any more clear?
> I am looking for a Holster.



Check out Felixtactical.com's leather holster for the Pd20. Great quality and will out last the nylon oem holsters. I think it will fit.

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk 2


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## Novan3 (Dec 18, 2012)

My RRT-01 I bought yesterday has an orange peel reflector and the titanium clip is shorter than the ones in the advertising pictures and of people who posted theirs.

Great little light overall.


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## thaugen (Dec 18, 2012)

The RRT-01 I purchased a few weeks ago had the same "upgrades". I am really liking this little powerhouse of a light!


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## AVService (Dec 18, 2012)

Just wanted to add here that after experimenting and measuring I have found that the Rip-Offs brand pouche that fit this well are:

CO-12-made from webbing material,very sturdy but not too soft at all and there is one the same size but that is padded and a little softer carry whose number I now can npt find?

Both have a Velcro flap which I like too and both are about $10.00

Problem solved for me!


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## gunga (Dec 19, 2012)

Novan3 said:


> My RRT-01 I bought yesterday has an orange peel reflector and the titanium clip is shorter than the ones in the advertising pictures and of people who posted theirs.
> 
> Great little light overall.



Can you post pictures?


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## Novan3 (Dec 21, 2012)

gunga said:


> Can you post pictures?


 
Excuse the quality; couple of pics taken in a moving vehicle at night with an Olight M20-X on high for lighting.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/...9-A7A2-31DF928A11E2-1149-00000135D6F81B66.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/...4-976E-C88E15EDAB40-1149-00000135DE7C16B7.jpg

Your images are oversize, when you post an image please remember Rule #3 

Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels.

*Please resize and repost.* - Thanks Norm


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## AnAppleSnail (Dec 21, 2012)

My ”Titanium” clip sure to be attracted to the control ring magnet. Am I crazy? Very nice light to use though.


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## 430Scuderia (Dec 22, 2012)

Novan3 said:


> Excuse the quality; couple of pics taken in a moving vehicle at night with an Olight M20-X on high for lighting.
> 
> http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/...9-A7A2-31DF928A11E2-1149-00000135D6F81B66.jpg
> 
> http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/...4-976E-C88E15EDAB40-1149-00000135DE7C16B7.jpg



May I ask what dealer did you buy this from? Thanks! You can PM me if you wish!


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## 430Scuderia (Dec 22, 2012)

thaugen said:


> The RRT-01 I purchased a few weeks ago had the same "upgrades". I am really liking this little powerhouse of a light!



May I ask what dealer did you buy yours from? Thanks! PM me if you wish!


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## thaugen (Dec 22, 2012)

430Scuderia said:


> May I ask what dealer did you buy yours from? Thanks! PM me if you wish!



PM sent.


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## 430Scuderia (Dec 22, 2012)

thaugen said:


> PM sent.



Thank you Sir, PM replied


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## AnAppleSnail (Dec 23, 2012)

Novan3 said:


> My RRT-01 I bought yesterday has an orange peel reflector and the titanium clip is shorter than the ones in the advertising pictures and of people who posted theirs.
> 
> Great little light overall.


 Novan, will you please check the ferrousity of your clip? Mine attracts magnets.


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## Novan3 (Dec 24, 2012)

AnAppleSnail said:


> Novan, will you please check the ferrousity of your clip? Mine attracts magnets.



So does mine. Is that bad?


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## Kilovolt (Dec 24, 2012)

Gentlemen: titanium does NOT attract magnets.


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## Novan3 (Dec 24, 2012)

What're you trying to tell me, my light is fake?


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## Kilovolt (Dec 24, 2012)

Novan3 said:


> What're you trying to tell me, my light is fake?




Surely not, I am just telling you that the clip is not made of titanium.


BTW the clip in your pics looks exactly like the one of the new Jetbeam DDC10 which is surely made of steel because it attracts magnets.


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## thaugen (Dec 24, 2012)

Mine is attracted to a magnet as well. I am pretty sure it is stainless and not titanium, but it doesn't bother me too much. I like the light and clip.


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## twl (Dec 24, 2012)

300-series stainless won't be attracted by magnets.
However, 400-series stainless might be.

If I were to venture a guess, I'd say it's spring steel that is plated with something.


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## AnAppleSnail (Dec 24, 2012)

I've got no problem with a steel clip. It works well. It may be titanium plated, but it isn't accurate to call it ” titanium”.


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## Novan3 (Dec 28, 2012)

Anyone know other flashlights in the RRT-01's class on the market? Surefire TITAN?


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## xed888 (Dec 28, 2012)

Sunwayman V11R
Niteye Eye 10


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## AVService (Dec 28, 2012)

Various Peak's Sort of.


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## Lighteous (Dec 28, 2012)

xed888 said:


> Sunwayman V11R
> Niteye Eye 10



I completely agree. I would also include RRT01's titanium cousin, TCR1. Like a true flashaholic, I have all four. All are great but the RRT01 is at the top of the list for me.


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## Dubois (Jan 13, 2013)

Novan3 said:


> My RRT-01 I bought yesterday has an orange peel reflector and the titanium clip is shorter than the ones in the advertising pictures and of people who posted theirs.



Sorry to be a pain, but could you measure the clip? I've asked one dealer if he has the new version, and he has replied that the clip is 45mm. I'd really like the light, but don't want the old version.

Thanks.


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## Novan3 (Jan 13, 2013)

Dubois, 45mm sounds about right.


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## Dubois (Jan 13, 2013)

Many thanks for that - no excuse for me not to pull the trigger now I guess. I was puzzled when the dealer said the reflector was SMO though. The short clip sorts out one of my concerns (clip rubbing against / interfering with the magnetic ring). I'll probably take the risk with the reflector.


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## MstrHnky (Feb 7, 2013)

where are you buying it from with an OP reflector and shorter clip? since this light came out last march, i'm wondering if it will be updated with a U2 or xp-g2 soon, or if the price will drop. still only seeing it around $89 with a few dealers that offer CPF discounts. i need to replace my nitecore smart pd ex10 r2 and this light has similar variable settings.


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## myates3 (Feb 7, 2013)

I have one on the way hope it is as good as people say.

Mike


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## kaichu dento (Feb 8, 2013)

myates3 said:


> I have one on the way hope it is as good as people say.


Not knowing anything about your preferences, I still think you'll find it to be a very user friendly and versatile light. I use mine a lot when I know that I want a very floody and variable light, which can quickly and easily go from whisper levels all the way up to car headlight-like output levels. If you like the light but not the tint, easily moddable too.


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## e1sbaer (Feb 8, 2013)

Would be nice if there was a step by step modding tutorial for a nichia 219 drop in. Without that I'd probably ruin it.


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## Fireclaw18 (Feb 8, 2013)

e1sbaer said:


> Would be nice if there was a step by step modding tutorial for a nichia 219 drop in. Without that I'd probably ruin it.



Probably wouldn't be too hard. Unscrew bezel. Pull off reflector and lens. Lift off plastic isolator/centering thingy. Unsolder LED star. Insert new star. Just make sure not to run your 219 on 16340 cells. The higher current will kill it.

I wonder if a 20mm star with triple Nichia 219 in parallel would fit...


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## FireStik (Feb 9, 2013)

This has been my EDC since it came out, and of the 25 or so lights I've purchased over the years it's the only one I haven't grown tired of. A neutral LED and shorter pocket clip would bring it as close to perfect as possible (for me).


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## Kabible (Feb 10, 2013)

For anyone who wants to run an 18650 with your RRT-01: a Crelant 7G3CS battery tube fits nicely onto the RRT-01's head. Gives the RRT-01 a lot more runtime with a lockout clicky. Overall length is 120mm.


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## Fireclaw18 (Feb 10, 2013)

Looks like the inside of the RRT-01 fits a 14mm star. 

Thinking of playing mix and match today. Maybe swap the OP reflector from my Eye10 with the smooth reflector in my RRT-01. Then upgrade the emitter in the RRT-01 to an XML2 5000k neutral.


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## FireStik (Feb 10, 2013)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Looks like the inside of the RRT-01 fits a 14mm star.
> 
> Thinking of playing mix and match today. Maybe swap the OP reflector from my Eye10 with the smooth reflector in my RRT-01. Then upgrade the emitter in the RRT-01 to an XML2 5000k neutral.



Nice! 5k would be just about right I think.


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## alex21 (Feb 11, 2013)

Kabible said:


> For anyone who wants to run an 18650 with your RRT-01: a Crelant 7G3CS battery tube fits nicely onto the RRT-01's head. Gives the RRT-01 a lot more runtime with a lockout clicky. Overall length is 120mm.


 This is really cool, thanks for sharing. I put off getting either the rrt-01 or eye-10, but seems the former has dropped in price and I really do like the stepless rotary.. buy now with $ neck and neck or wait for an updated version.. if there is one.. damn


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## NCF8710 (Feb 11, 2013)

FireStik said:


> This has been my EDC since it came out, and of the 25 or so lights I've purchased over the years it's the only one I haven't grown tired of. A neutral LED and shorter pocket clip would bring it as close to perfect as possible (for me).



+1 :thumbsup:


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## Fireclaw18 (Feb 11, 2013)

Well, I succesfully opened up the bezel on my Eye10 and RRT-01. I swapped the OP reflector into the RRT-01. I also removed the RRT-01's original emitter with an XML2 T6 nw 5000k emitter. A 14mm star fit, but the star I had was much thinner than the original. So instead, I reflowed my XML2 on the RRT-01's original star. It works great.... a very bright, neutral tint beam with no rings. Running on IMR 18350 in a ceiling bounce test it is slightly brighter than my Eagletac D25c 2013 edition Ti using an identical XML2 neutral emitter.

The bezel on both the RRT-01 and the EYE10 was very hard to remove. I think they may be using some threadlocker. It can be done, but is extremely difficult. Once the bezel was off, changing the emitter was a breeze. The wires to the star unsoldered easily and the star itself wasn't glued in. This is the opposite of my experience with the emitter swapping on my Eagletac D25c. The D25c's bezel came off very easily, but nothing I did could get the solder they used to attach the leads to the star to melt. My 40w soldering iron wasn't hot enough. I ended up having to clip the wires and then soldering on tiny bits of wire to make a connection.

One thing that didn't work out so great: I tried to open up the bezel on my TCR-01 for a possible future emitter swap. I thought I had it loosened so then tightened it up again. They use threadlocker or something because it is VERY hard to turn. Unfortunately, I didn't realize that the part I'd actually loosened was the middle half of the head just above the ring and not the bezel. When I stuck a battery back in, the light worked for a second and then stopped. Now if any battery is put in the light doesn't work and there is an immediate unpleasant burning spell. And the head gets hot. Even when connected for just a couple seconds. My guess is when I turned the middle part of the head, something broke in the driver and is causing a short.

Very likely I've fried the driver on my TCR-01. I'm going to have to figure out how to completely disassemble it so I can take a look. If it looks irretrievably fried, I might try replacing its innards with those from my EYE10.

Assuming I can manage to repair my TCR-01 I'm still not sure whether I prefer it to the RRT-01 for EDC. The RRT-01 is noticeably lighter weight which is important. But the TCR-01 looks and feels much better in the hand.


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## gradio (Feb 11, 2013)

RRT-01 I like it & think I'll add it for now on my want list. 
Then soon will be weeding the list for a order of 3 maybe 4 lights.

add - we'll, placed one of these on order (couldn't helpit). 1 of 4 lights.


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## kaichu dento (Feb 13, 2013)

gradio said:


> RRT-01 I like it & think I'll add it for now on my want list.
> Then soon will be weeding the list for a order of 3 maybe 4 lights.
> 
> add - we'll, placed one of these on order (couldn't helpit). 1 of 4 lights.


Hope you like it and I sure wish we'd had stock lights like this available a few years back.


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## FireStik (Feb 13, 2013)

Fireclaw18 said:


> ?....I swapped the OP reflector into the RRT-01. I also removed the RRT-01's original emitter with an XML2 T6 nw 5000k emitter.....



Excellent! Can you share your source for the XML2 T6 NW emitter?


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## Fireclaw18 (Feb 14, 2013)

Managed to open up my TCR-01 and replace its driver with that from my EYE10. I also upgraded the emitter to an XML2 U2 while I wait for another NW emitter to arrive.

I think the original driver is salvageable. Looks like what happened is one of the driver wires broke halfway through when I torqued the casing. It looks repairable, so one of these days I'll load it up in my EYE10's case and see if I can repair it.

Interestingly, the star on the TCR-01 is made of copper, while the stars on the RRT-01 and EYE-10 are made of aluminum.


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## gradio (Feb 14, 2013)

Received my RRT-01 today, dropped the battery in and I like it. Smooth & easy one hand ring-turn, edc size, tail stands, seems quality built, what's not to like. Going to edc this one for awhile and use it at work and see how it carries. But so far no regrets.


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## Fireclaw18 (Feb 18, 2013)

gradio said:


> Received my RRT-01 today, dropped the battery in and I like it. Smooth & easy one hand ring-turn, edc size, tail stands, seems quality built, what's not to like. Going to edc this one for awhile and use it at work and see how it carries. But so far no regrets.



I opened up my TCR-01 and swapped in the driver from the Eye10. It works fine. Then decided that perhaps I like the RRT-01's light a bit better so swapped the guts into it. Currently my lights are all mix and match! I now have the following:

Jetbeam RRT-01 - using copper star from TCR-01, driver and OP reflector from Niteye EYE10. Emitter is an XM-L2 T6 neutral white 5,000k. Beam is nice bright neutral with no rings. At max power on a fresh IMR 18350 it should output around 730 lumens, but gets hot extremely fast.

Jetbeam TCR-01 - using aluminum star from RRT-01. Driver is from RRT-01. Emitter is the same XML2-T6 neutral white 5,000k. Beam is a pleasing neutral white, but is very ringy. Quite bright, but slightly dimmer than the modded RRT-01. Lots of rings. The OP reflector definitely produces a much better beam than the aluminum reflector. Also I think the EYE10's driver is pulling slightly more amps than the RRT-01's stock driver.

I also lubed up the ring in my RRT-01 with Nyogel (mainly because it was what I had on hand). The ring now turns very smoothly with a slight click at each end. No more grinding metal feeling. Much better than stock.


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## gradio (Feb 18, 2013)

Carrying 3 edc's (Olight i1 / Fenix L12 / Jetbeam RRT-01) and rotating usage and been using the edc's for various tasks (dog walking, getting things in the garage at night without using garage lights, garbage out during dark, etc., and lots of work usage) I like the RRT-01 so much that I feel I'll place another one on my next order.

Olight i1 - dropped a couple times (kind of small and a little slippery) but still like it and high puts out good for a compact size. Cleaned and lightly lubed o-ring & threads. Just not easy one-handed for me but can be done.
Fenix L12 - fits my hand well, got used the side switch, have lots of MiMh and primary batteries, wont tail stand.
Jetbeam RRT-01 - Fits hand well, have and keep lots of CR123A's, love the adjustable light level. Seem nothing about it bothers me.... so I want another 1 or 2. If I get 2, then itchy thoughts might results in trying some mods mentioned.
So far, what's not to like about the RRT-01. I tossed between the RRT-01 & V11R, and for some reason I pulled the trigger on the RRT-01 - glad I did too. Right now it's my desirable edc.
add - may still add V11R just because I'm still curious about it, and need to build up more to my collection.


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## FlashKat (Feb 18, 2013)

Have you tried your RRT-01 with a 18350 or a RCR123 battery? Big difference in output!!!


gradio said:


> Jetbeam RRT-01 - Fits hand well, have and keep lots of CR123A's, love the adjustable light level. Seem nothing about it bothers me.... so I want another 1 or 2. If I get 2, then itchy thoughts might results in trying some mods mentioned.


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## gradio (Feb 19, 2013)

FlashKat said:


> Have you tried your RRT-01 with a 18350 or a RCR123 battery? Big difference in output!!!


Nope - have only stuck to the CR123A's. I understand it can ramp 500 lumens with other batteries but I haven't any other batteries. Have the Fury & EA3 for brighter needs.


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## Dubois (Mar 25, 2013)

Thrunite have the RRT-01 available as a group buy to members of their forum. I believe it is the OP and short clip model.


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## onthelake (Mar 25, 2013)

Dubois said:


> Thrunite have the RRT-01 available as a group buy to members of their forum. I believe it is the OP and short clip model.



Can you please attach the link to the group buy thread? I needed a reason to pick a few more up. Thank you.


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## Dubois (Mar 25, 2013)

onthelake said:


> Can you please attach the link to the group buy thread? I needed a reason to pick a few more up. Thank you.



I wasn't sure if I can post links here - if not apologies, but it's in the Marketplace under Good Deals ($63 is a good deal to me). Thunite have their own section, so it should be OK. Here's the link.


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## onthelake (Mar 25, 2013)

Dubois said:


> I wasn't sure if I can post links here - if not apologies, but it's in the Marketplace under Good Deals ($63 is a good deal to me). Thunite have their own section, so it should be OK. Here's the link.



What a fantastic deal! Thank you.


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## Dubois (Mar 27, 2013)

I noticed that after I had signed up for the Group Buy, and felt obliged to take up the offer when it became available. Thrunite's was a very good deal when I first posted, it became less so overnight.


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## gunga (Mar 27, 2013)

How good is fasttech service? I think I have heard of them but have never dealt with them.


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## AbnInfantry (Mar 27, 2013)

gunga said:


> How good is fasttech service? I think I have heard of them but have never dealt with them.



I've ordered numerous flashlights, batteries, and other items from FastTech and have nothing but good things to say about the company. From the time I place an order, delivery by (free) first-class mail (with tracking info) from Hong Kong to South Dakota has taken seven to fourteen days. I've found their customer service, and prices, to be excellent.

I actually prefer the Niteye EYE10 which, IMHO, is an improved version of the Jetbeam RRT-01. The EYE10 has an orange peel rather than smooth reflector and a XML U2 LED instead of a XML T6. It's incredibly bright when using an IMR 18350 battery. I just ordered another EYE10 from FastTech solely due to their price ($49.66 after a 5% CPF discount) which is $15 less than I paid for my current EYE10 from a different vendor.


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## gunga (Mar 27, 2013)

Is there a code for the CPF discount?


----------



## AbnInfantry (Mar 27, 2013)

gunga said:


> Is there a code for the CPF discount?



The code CPF gives you 5% off on items such as flashlights and batteries. On certain flashlights (especially some Nitecore models), the code PRICECONTROL gives a much larger discount. It's possible to enter multiple codes when ordering certain products in order to get the best price depending on the item, but you have to be careful of the sequence the codes are entered.


----------



## gunga (Mar 27, 2013)

Thanks for the info!


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## melty (Mar 27, 2013)

AbnInfantry said:


> I actually prefer the Niteye EYE10 which, IMHO, is an improved version of the Jetbeam RRT-01. The EYE10 has an orange peel rather than smooth reflector and a XML U2 LED instead of a XML T6. It's incredibly bright when using an IMR 18350 battery. I just ordered another EYE10 from FastTech solely due to their price ($49.66 after a 5% CPF discount) which is $15 less than I paid for my current EYE10 from a different vendor.



RRT-01 has been updated with an OP reflector. The only thing keeping me from liking the EYE10 is the clicky action (detents) of the control ring; I prefer the smooth action of the RRT-01. It's odd, the EYE10 TiC doesn't have the detents... can anyone confirm whether or not recent EYE10 models still have the detents?


----------



## cyclesport (Mar 27, 2013)

I only have a first gen EYE 10, and as far as I know...there is no second gen version yet, so I'm guessing the 11 detents are still present. I also partially agree w/AbnInfantry in that I prefer the EYE 10 over the RRT-01 for the U2 binned XM-L over the RRT-01's T6 and the EYE 10's OP reflector, (although the new RRT-01 has an OP reflector now also). Mostly though... because the driver in the EYE 10 seems to drive the emitter harder than the RRT-01 resulting in a comparatively brighter light at max. 

I used to think they used the same drivers, being built by the same parent company, and this was just my observation since I don't own a lux meter but now I'm not so sure, and have also seen other posters mentioning this trait as well.


----------



## AbnInfantry (Mar 27, 2013)

melty said:


> The only thing keeping me from liking the EYE10 is the clicky action (detents) of the control ring; I prefer the smooth action of the RRT-01.



The EYE10's control ring detents don't bother me at all. What does annoy me is the lack of knurling on half of the control ring. I still find the EYE10's control ring easier to operate using one hand than the stiff, non-clicky control ring on my Sunwayman V10R-U2. I really appreciate being able to use an 18350 battery in the EYE10 as opposed to a 16340 in the V10R.



cyclesport said:


> Mostly though... because the driver in the EYE 10 seems to drive the emitter harder than the RRT-01 resulting in a comparatively brighter light at max.



I have that same impression ... regarding the RRT-01 as well as some other Jetbeam flashlights I’ve owned.


----------



## melty (Mar 27, 2013)

cyclesport said:


> I only have a first gen EYE 10, and as far as I know...there is no second gen version yet, so I'm guessing the 11 detents are still present. I also partially agree w/AbnInfantry in that I prefer the EYE 10 over the RRT-01 for the U2 binned XM-L over the RRT-01's T6 and the EYE 10's OP reflector, (although the new RRT-01 has an OP reflector now also). Mostly though... because the driver in the EYE 10 seems to drive the emitter harder than the RRT-01 resulting in a comparatively brighter light at max.
> 
> I used to think they used the same drivers, being built by the same parent company, and this was just my observation since I don't own a lux meter but now I'm not so sure, and have also seen other posters mentioning this trait as well.



660 lumens vs 500 lumens isn't a significant enough difference to matter to me. Also, I don't think these numbers are even directly comparable. AFAIK the 500 lumen RRT-01 output isn't using IMR chemistry. Has the RRT-01 ever been measured with an IMR battery? The only reference I could find puts the RRT-01 at above 550 lumens on IMR which makes the brightness comparison even less significant.

I'm more concerned about operation and tint. It looks like the EYE10 may have a slightly warmer tint which I would prefer.


----------



## cyclesport (Mar 27, 2013)

melty said:


> 660 lumens vs 500 lumens isn't a significant enough difference to matter to me. Also, I don't think these numbers are even directly comparable. AFAIK the 500 lumen RRT-01 output isn't using IMR chemistry. Has the RRT-01 ever been measured with an IMR battery? The only reference I could find puts the RRT-01 at above 550 lumens on IMR which makes the brightness comparison even less significant.
> 
> I'm more concerned about operation and tint. It looks like the EYE10 may have a slightly warmer tint which I would prefer.



You're probably right about the EYE 10's warmer tint although they're both cool...around 6500/6800k range. And yeah, just my observation re; absolute max outputs...little difference in a practical everyday sense. I use 18350 IMR's in both these lights and fwiw, you can easily tell white wall'ing...the EYE 10 is brighter.


----------



## kaichu dento (Mar 28, 2013)

melty said:


> 660 lumens vs 500 lumens isn't a significant enough difference to matter to me.


I had both the TC-R1 (Ti version of the RRT-01) and an EYE-10 for over half a year. Both very bright, but there was no noticeable difference in usage and what was noticeable was the beam pattern, which I took care of by swapping reflectors.

Once I'd done the swap I realized that while the difference was detectable, and desirable, it wasn't bad enough to make me dislike it and the one thing I really dislike about the EYE-10 is the ridiculous one-pants-leg-up, one-pants-leg-down gimmickry of trying to make the light 'cooler' by appealing to an 'anything different is racier' mentality, which is embodied in the user-unfriendly half knurl.

Great lights, both, but the TC-R1 is the one I'm keeping.


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 28, 2013)

kaichu dento said:


> I had both the TC-R1 (Ti version of the RRT-01) and an EYE-10 for over half a year. Both very bright, but there was no noticeable difference in usage and what was noticeable was the beam pattern, which I took care of by swapping reflectors.
> 
> Once I'd done the swap I realized that while the difference was detectable, and desirable, it wasn't bad enough to make me dislike it and the one thing I really dislike about the EYE-10 is the ridiculous one-pants-leg-up, one-pants-leg-down gimmickry of trying to make the light 'cooler' by appealing to an 'anything different is racier' mentality, which is embodied in the user-unfriendly half knurl.
> 
> Great lights, both, but the TC-R1 is the one I'm keeping.



Ah the joy of mix and matching parts from the EYE10 to the Jetbeams.

I have a TCR-01 and RRT-01 both with smooth reflectors and an EYE10.

What I'm currently using: Jetbeam RRT-01, but with the higher current driver and orange peel reflector from the EYE10. For the emitter I'm using a 5,000k neutral tint XML2 T6 mounted on the copper star from TCR-01. (the RRT-01 and EYE10 have aluminum stars).

When I disassembled the light I also added extra lube into the magnetic ring mechanism. It's now much smoother and quieter with none of the grindy metal feeling of the stock RRT-01. I used Nyogel o-ring lubricant mainly because that's what I had on-hand.

The light's much better and more practical now. I estimate the output on a fresh AW IMR 18350 is probably in the 750 lumen range and it has a perfect beam pattern with nice neutral tint. I decided to go with the RRT-01 body instead of the TCR-01 body mainly because of weight. The TCR-01 looks and feels better in the hand, but is noticeably heavier in the pocket. The RRT-01 body just seems more practical.

I decided against using the EYE10 body mainly because I don't like the extra detentes and the half-knurled control ring. I could probably fill in the extra detentes with epoxy, but can't add extra knurling to the ring.

I considered using the heatsink fin portion of the EYE10 body on my RRT-01, but ultimately decided against it because the knurling wouldn't quite match and I'm not sure that there would be any significant gain in heatsinking.


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## Dubois (Mar 28, 2013)

I might have missed it, but can someone please advise if a flat top 18350 IMR (efest) battery will work with this light? I've been very smug, looking forward to using one of these when my light arrives, and just had a thought, and realised it may need a button top. Now that would be annoying.


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## tallyram (Mar 28, 2013)

I had to put a dot of solder on my flat top IMR 18350's to get them to work.


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## gunga (Mar 29, 2013)

Flat top wont work.


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## Dubois (Mar 29, 2013)

Thanks gunga and tallyram. I'll better start shopping again.


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## Bumble (Mar 29, 2013)

well after some reading on the rrt-01 and the eye 10, i couldnt decide which one to buy, so i purchased both from fasttech  time to get some aw imr 18350 batteries ( if i can due to "vapers" not buying them all) lol.


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## cyclesport (Mar 29, 2013)

kaichu dento said:


> I had both the TC-R1 (Ti version of the RRT-01) and an EYE-10 for over half a year. Both very bright, but there was no noticeable difference in usage and what was noticeable was the beam pattern, which I took care of by swapping reflectors.
> 
> Once I'd done the swap I realized that while the difference was detectable, and desirable, it wasn't bad enough to make me dislike it and the one thing I really dislike about the EYE-10 is the ridiculous one-pants-leg-up, one-pants-leg-down gimmickry of trying to make the light 'cooler' by appealing to an 'anything different is racier' mentality, which is embodied in the user-unfriendly half knurl.
> 
> Great lights, both, but the TC-R1 is the one I'm keeping.



Can’t speak to the TC-R1, but I believe that Jetbeam got most things right on the RRT-01 (for the exception of the 1st​ gen’s SMO reflec.), and agree that the EYE 10’s are rather silly with the raised blocks (lacking good purchase) and only half of the ring using them and the unneeded detents. Cosmetics don’t really concern me much since IMO the diff’s are minor in use.

I am reasonably sure however that Niteye wasn’t necessarily trying to appeal to a “cooler” customer base, but rather the parent company’s marketing dept. noticing how many RRT-01s were selling, instructed a Cad tech to take the RRT-01’s design and change it just enough to distance it from Jetbeam and label it as a Niteye product in an attempt to garner more marketshare.

Now that the core design is getting a little dated, and prices appear to be trending lower, I wouldn’t be surprised to see an updated version of maybe both lights, and possibly new Ti variants soon…who knows? I believe the mag ring UI is too good/popular=sales, to let it die.


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## AbnInfantry (Mar 29, 2013)

cyclesport said:


> I am reasonably sure however that Niteye wasn’t necessarily trying to appeal to a “cooler” customer base, but rather the parent company’s marketing dept. noticing how many RRT-01s were selling, instructed a Cad tech to take the RRT-01’s design and change it just enough to distance it from Jetbeam and label it as a Niteye product in an attempt to garner more marketshare.



From subwoofer's review of the Niteye EYE10: "Well… it looks quite familiar, despite being a new Niteye model. I’m told by Niteye that the design for this and a version sold by another manufacturer was created by one designer. Both Niteye and the other manufacturer have the rights to make this design, and do so independently."


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## cyclesport (Mar 29, 2013)

AbnInfantry said:


> From subwoofer's review of the Niteye EYE10: "Well… it looks quite familiar, despite being a new Niteye model. I’m told by Niteye that the design for this and a version sold by another manufacturer was created by one designer. Both Niteye and the other manufacturer have the rights to make this design, and do so independently."



Take a look at both lights side-by-side and tell me they're not the same light right down to the clip, with a few superficial differences. Jetbeam and Niteye are/were(?) under the same corporate banner.


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## blackFFM (Mar 29, 2013)

How can I open the light to remove the reflector? Does the bezel come off?


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 29, 2013)

blackFFM said:


> How can I open the light to remove the reflector? Does the bezel come off?



Yup. Unscrew the bezel to pull it and the lens off. Reflector should then fall out revealing the star with the emitter on it.

If it's stiff it may have some threadlocker. If this is the case and you need to turn really hard to take the bezel off make sure to grip the part of the body ABOVE the magnetic ring. Rubberized pliers will work best.

The head is assembled in 3 sections: The stainless steel bezel. The front aluminum section above the ring, and the back aluminum section behind the ring. The front and back sections screw together underneath the ring. They are held with threadlocker. If the threadlocker on those threads give way before any threadlocker on the bezel, then you might end up destroying the wires from the driver to the star. Doing so may probably kill the light since its a proprietary 2-board driver in which the wires actually travel through the upper board to get to the lower board. Soldering fresh wires might not be possible.

If you need to get access to the magnetic ring to apply more lube, always remove the bezel and reflector first. Then unsolder the driver from the star. Then turn the head over and unscrew and remove the driver. With the driver removed, it is now safe to unscrew the top section from the bottom section to access the magnetic ring.


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## xevious (Apr 26, 2013)

I am quite happy with the RRT-01 and glad I waited for the OP reflector and shorter lanyard peg (so it tail stands securely). It works well, with only a minimum of beam artifacts. The reflector isn't as deep as a NovaTac 120P so it has more flood. Simply amazing how low you can run this thing. Also, I have to say that the design looks very handsome with the partial knurling and evenly spaced divots.

It's amazing how slim these CR123 lights can get, without the walls becoming too thin. It's definitely easier to pocket than a NovaTac.

Functionally, I just don't understand why they put in an SOS mode. Strobe would've been better, IMHO. But I guess the designers figured this is more of a survival flashlight.

My only real gripe is that the selector ring has a little bit of play in it. It turns smoothly, but I'd prefer it to be more secure.


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## bansuri (May 25, 2013)

I'm a little late to the party but I couldn't pass it up at the Fasttech price.
A couple comments:
The SOS is VERY easy to get to, you simply need to turn it on HIGH, then rotate it _slightly_ left and back to HIGH 3 times. On the third time stay on HIGH and the SOS mode will come on. It's a one-handed operation.
At first I thought that it would be the worst SOS ever if it only worked on full output, but the output is reduced as you turn the ring down. Perfect execution. Unfortunately SOS is a very specific flash mode and will only be appropriate for life or death situations. If they can build SOS into the interface I wonder if they could build other modes in also? I'd love to see a variation of the following:

Single beacon style slow flash after 3 turns, double after 4, continuous after 5, SOS after 6. All with variable output.
The HDS locator lights up a tent in the dark when your eyes are adapted, I have to cover it up with something or my wife can't get to sleep, the ultra-low output on this would allow a reasonable locator output.
And while I'm fantasizing about what they could build into the UI, a programmable HIGH level would be nice. Maybe 10 twists to get into programming, it would cycle through different max outputs, twist to select.

xevious, mine also has a bit of play in the ring, thinking about opening it up and putting some damping grease in it, this stuff works wonders. 
Considering putting an XM-L2 5000k 3C in it, but I'll run it for a while to see if there are any issues. The tint isn't that bad on mine so I'm not in a big hurry.


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## xevious (May 25, 2013)

bansuri said:


> I'm a little late to the party but I couldn't pass it up at the Fasttech price.
> A couple comments: The SOS is VERY easy to get to, you simply need to turn it on HIGH, then rotate it _slightly_ left and back to HIGH 3 times. On the third time stay on HIGH and the SOS mode will come on. It's a one-handed operation.
> At first I thought that it would be the worst SOS ever if it only worked on full output, but the output is reduced as you turn the ring down. Perfect execution. Unfortunately SOS is a very specific flash mode and will only be appropriate for life or death situations. If they can build SOS into the interface I wonder if they could build other modes in also? I'd love to see a variation of the following:


Congrats on getting an RRT-01, Bansuri. Actually, you do not need to be on high first for SOS. A rapid triple back-forth turning from anywhere on the selector position turns it on. Once on, you can move the selector ring to vary the intensity of the SOS.

What I would have liked to see implemented is performing the rapid back-forth rotation on the low end of the selector would turn on SOS, and then doing it on the upper half of the selector would turn on strobe. Is SOS needed in a light of this particular form factor? In my book a locator beacon is sufficient indication of needing assistance and lasts longer.



> xevious, mine also has a bit of play in the ring, thinking about opening it up and putting some damping grease in it, this stuff works wonders.
> Considering putting an XM-L2 5000k 3C in it, but I'll run it for a while to see if there are any issues. The tint isn't that bad on mine so I'm not in a big hurry.


I've come to find the play less of an annoyance now, having gotten used to the ring. Also, its movement had a little coarseness to it (like a fine grit) in the beginning but has since smoothed out. The tint isn't bad, really. It's no CRI, but generally for an all around multi-purpose light it's good enough. I might get brave to put in a warmer tinted emitter down the road but for now I'll leave it as-is.

One other thing that I appreciate with this light is the lockout is effective, a must-have when traveling with it in a pocket. I say this because the clip is kind of useless. It has no hard indent, so it can slide off of material and hit the ground (happened to me, bezel first unfortunately, as I now have a nick on it).


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## creyc (Jul 5, 2013)

Just bought a new RRT-01 and kind of surprised to find its a first gen model with the smooth reflector, I was sort of hoping for OP.

Anyone know if these replace,net reflectors are still available?

And is the only difference between 1st and 2nd gen the reflector?


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## Dubois (Jul 5, 2013)

The clip is shorter in the 2nd gen models, so it doesn't rub when using the ring. I'm surprised you didn't get the new version - repackaged - with XM-L2 emitter and a claimed 600lm output (ie, 20% higher than XM-L).

Where did you get yours from?


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## creyc (Jul 5, 2013)

I bought it from Flashlight Scope Outdoors on eBay, too good of a price to pass up. I really like this light, the interface is so simple and intuitive.







Looking at pictures of other RRT-01's online I see I have the shorter pocket clip which doesn't interfere with the rotating ring.






But the reflector is smooth except for a couple rings at the back, so I can't tell which version I have. The box says 500 lm, XM-L T6


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## Fireclaw18 (Jul 5, 2013)

creyc said:


> I bought it from Flashlight Scope Outdoors on eBay, too good of a price to pass up. I really like this light, the interface is so simple and intuitive.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




From the pictures you posted I think you do have the shorter clip. However, the rest of the light looks like the original version. You have the original smooth reflector that gives a ringy beam. And that's definitely an XM-L emitter, not the newer XM-L2.


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## JetskiMark (Jul 5, 2013)

Fireclaw18 said:


> From the pictures you posted I think you do have the shorter clip. However, the rest of the light looks like the original version. You have the original smooth reflector that gives a ringy beam. And that's definitely an XM-L emitter, not the newer XM-L2.



I agree. I looked at the mentioned sellers eBay listing and the pictures showed the smooth reflector. So the seller did not misrepresent the item.

I bought the Niteye EYE15 just to use the 18650 battery tube with my RRT-01 (OP reflector, XM-L). This combo rocks and has become my daily dog walking light. With a 3400mAh cell, I do not have to recharge very often. The EYE15 head on the RRT-01 body with an 18350 has similar output, but lacks the excellent sub-lumen levels. It also has way too many detents.

I wish JETBeam would offer an XM-L2 version with an 18650 body. I would definitely buy one.

I am going to get a Nitecore SRT5 and see how it compares to my 18650 RRT-01. It will be about 20mm longer and have a tail switch. I'm not sure if I will like that.


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## creyc (Jul 5, 2013)

Not claiming it was misrepresented, I'm quite happy with the light I was just a bit puzzled by the gen 2 clip and gen 1 head. The ringy beam isn't too bad outside of a white wall, if I can come across an OP reflector I may swap it but not a major concern.

I'm pretty happy with the XM-L T6 emitter, they seem to usually have a better tint than my L2 lights have.


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## gunga (Jul 5, 2013)

I got the same setup as you creyc. I got mine from fasttech. I add a light/medium diffusion film. I reduces throw but the beam is super smooth with bright flood. I do like it.


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## JetskiMark (Jul 5, 2013)

creyc said:


> .....Not claiming it was misrepresented.....



I see how what I typed could imply that I thought you claimed it had been misrepresented. I was just thinking that if I ordered a new RRT-01, I would expect it to have the OP reflector and short clip. I was curious which reflector was pictured by the seller. I suppose that they got a deal on 20 of the first generation models with the second generation clip. I will think of it as a Gen 1 MKII.

I'm glad that you are enjoying yours. I really like mine with an 18650. The tint is decent but I would like it even more with a neutral XM-L2.


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## aau007 (Jul 5, 2013)

JetskiMark said:


> ...
> I'm glad that you are enjoying yours. I really like mine with an 18650. The tint is decent but I would like it even more with a neutral XM-L2.



You run your rrt01 with 18650 too? What mod did you use to run 18650?


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## JetskiMark (Jul 5, 2013)

aau007 said:


> You run your rrt01 with 18650 too? What mod did you use to run 18650?





JetskiMark said:


> .....I bought the Niteye EYE15 just to use the 18650 battery tube with my RRT-01 (OP reflector, XM-L). This combo rocks and has become my daily dog walking light. With a 3400mAh cell, I do not have to recharge very often. The EYE15 head on the RRT-01 body with an 18350 has similar output, but lacks the excellent sub-lumen levels. It also has way too many detents.



What are you using?


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## aau007 (Jul 6, 2013)

JetskiMark said:


> What are you using?



Sorry I missed your other post. 

That's what I ended up using. I don't have the Eye15 head, just the body. I tried the Niteye MSC20 but they put pwm control in the tailswitch and I ended up with double pwm flashing.

Judging the look of the srt5, I think there is a good chance that the body will fit with the rrt01 if they use the same threading. Do let us know if the head/tube between the rrt01 and srt5 are interchangeable, please.


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## creyc (Jul 10, 2013)

JetskiMark said:


> I'm glad that you are enjoying yours. I really like mine with an 18650. The tint is decent but I would like it even more with a neutral XM-L2.



I got my vise soft jaws in the other day so I figured a good first project would be popping open my fresh new RRT-01. I swapped in an XM-L 4000K T4 LED I had on hand, and I'm pretty pleased with the result. I'd consider an XM-L2 with a T5 or even T6 flux, but haven't had great luck with tints on these emitters yet.






The photo goes: Eagletac D25A NW, RRT-01 (XM-L 4000K), D11.2 (Nichia 219 H1). 






It's very warm and comfortable light, and makes this light even more of a joy to use! I'm waiting on some 16340 batteries and looking for an OP reflector to perfect this light to my tastes. An 18650 battery option would be nice, but the EYE15 isn't all that cheap to use for its battery tube. May have to look for a Crelant.


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## papershredder (Jul 17, 2013)

Fasttech SKU 1291308 claims it's the RRT-01 in OP.

Can anyone who's ordered this comment?


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## snakyjake (Jul 17, 2013)

Fasttech is good-to-go, and is the OP.


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## fyrstormer (Jul 18, 2013)

I just bought an RRT-01 on Tuesday. Showed up yesterday. Ordered it from Amazon. It came with the new short clip and the new orange-peel reflector. At first it looked like it wasn't working properly, but I cleaned off the electrodes with Goof Off and now it works perfectly.

I actually bought this to use with a Niteye EYE-12 2xAA battery tube. I didn't like the Niteye head, which is essentially the same as the EYE-10, and has detentes under the control ring. (not to mention the weird texturing on the outside of the control ring.)

I have to say, I'm very happy with the quality of the updated RRT-01. I was already familiar with the TC-R1 titanium version, but the aluminum version is just as nice and I'd be happy to EDC it if I didn't already have an EDC I'm happy with.


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## BigBluefish (Aug 8, 2013)

Late to the party. I just ordered and received an RRT-01 from Going Gear. I purchased one of the discounted XM-L versions, since I plan on an emitter sway anyway... I received a light with the short clip, flush lanyard peg, control ring with a firm detent for the off position and ... a smooth reflector???? Now, the beam isn't that ringy, and it's only noticeable when looking at a white wall a few feet away. But I thought the LOP reflectors had been in the lights for awhile?


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## gunga (Aug 9, 2013)

I ordered one from Fasttech a few months back. Got the same combo as you. Weird.


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## BigBluefish (Aug 9, 2013)

Any idea which emitter would produce a better beam with the smooth reflector, XM-L2 or Nichi 219? 

Since I'm planning an emitter swap, is there anywhere to source an LOP reflector as well? I presume with the LOP installed, either the Cree or Nichia would produce a decent beam profile. 

BTW, I just picked up a L4 with the SSC emitter...now that's a nice beam. I'm going to get spoiled using that one.


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## creyc (Aug 9, 2013)

BigBluefish said:


> Any idea which emitter would produce a better beam with the smooth reflector, XM-L2 or Nichi 219?
> 
> Since I'm planning an emitter swap, is there anywhere to source an LOP reflector as well? I presume with the LOP installed, either the Cree or Nichia would produce a decent beam profile.
> 
> BTW, I just picked up a L4 with the SSC emitter...now that's a nice beam. I'm going to get spoiled using that one.



Call up Arc, they have a few spare reflectors for the Arc 6 which fit my RRT-01 well. I swapped in a 4000K XM-L emitter and I love the tint. The OP reflector really smooths the beam out, and it still throws pretty well. I run it off an 18350 and its crazy bright for such a small light. This may be my favorite EDC light now, if only it were a bit slimmer!


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## Capolini (Aug 9, 2013)

I almost got this instead of the TK-75. Does anyone have both? How would you compare the two in regards to overall performance? PBI[candelas], Lumens, Beam distance, throw, ect. I am certainly satisfied with my TK-75. My guess is that this Jetbeam is not quite as impressive.


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## gunga (Aug 9, 2013)

I put in a light diffusion film. Does a great job. A bit floodier and less throw vs OP reflector but I find very useful beam.

Also, I have 5000K XML2 in it.


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## lightyearsaway (Aug 21, 2013)

Has anyone figured out how to feed the lanyard though on this thing? I tried using a needle but the angle is just too tight... There's no space.. A little bit of a design flaw...


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## Dubois (Aug 21, 2013)

Use a bit of fine wire, looped, as a guide. That will be easier to get through than string. Then feed the lanyard through the wire loop, and pull it through.


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## lightyearsaway (Aug 21, 2013)

Dubois said:


> Use a bit of fine wire, looped, as a guide. That will be easier to get through than string. Then feed the lanyard through the wire loop, and pull it through.



Thank you, worked like a charm in less than a minute.


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## Dubois (Aug 21, 2013)

Glad to hear it. When I re-read my post, I thought "Does this actually make sense?", so I'm happy it worked for you.


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## lightyearsaway (Aug 21, 2013)

Dubois said:


> Glad to hear it. When I re-read my post, I thought "Does this actually make sense?", so I'm happy it worked for you.



Actually what I did was tie a piece of thread around it, and then fed the thread through the whole, had to do it a few times until the end of it popped up high enough to grab it and then I pulled the lanyard through all the way, then looped the lanyard then removed the thread. I didn't use wire, I don't have any, but I think if the wire was thin enough it might work better. But thread worked just fine. Thanks again. I will keep this in mind as I suspect other lights might be the same.


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## fyrstormer (Aug 25, 2013)

Attach a D-clip to the hole and feed the lanyard through the D-clip.


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## uetecu (Aug 25, 2013)

papershredder said:


> Fasttech SKU 1291308 claims it's the RRT-01 in OP.
> 
> Can anyone who's ordered this comment?



It's definitely OP I ordered one back in May from Fasttech. Unfortunately I had to return it because the variable magnetic ring played up in the first week. Beautiful design but the quality was too poor for me to risk purchasing another one.

Ended up going the V11R and never regretted it.


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## herosemblem (Aug 25, 2013)

Capolini said:


> I almost got this instead of the TK-75. Does anyone have both? How would you compare the two in regards to overall performance? PBI[candelas], Lumens, Beam distance, throw, ect. I am certainly satisfied with my TK-75. My guess is that this Jetbeam is not quite as impressive.



I own both. I carry the rrt01 when I'm in my dress clothes. I use my tk75 when I need to search for things. My EDC is still a pd32ue.


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## tallboybass (Aug 26, 2013)

I love my RRT01, only thing that's disappointing to me is the runtime, even when using a 18350 and running at less than max. Anyone else?


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## aau007 (Aug 26, 2013)

tallboybass said:


> I love my RRT01, only thing that's disappointing to me is the runtime, even when using a 18350 and running at less than max. Anyone else?



I use the body tube from a Niteye Eye15. Fits like it is made for it.


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## Alfred143 (Jan 30, 2014)

aau007 said:


> I use the body tube from a Niteye Eye15. Fits like it is made for it.



Have you been successful in running an 18650 on the RRT01 with the Niteye Eye15 body? Any problems?

The 'lego-ing' Sounds very promising


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## Mr. Nobody (Feb 13, 2015)

Alfred143 said:


> Have you been successful in running an 18650 on the RRT01 with the Niteye Eye15 body? Any problems?
> 
> The 'lego-ing' Sounds very promising



yup, everything works fine and mates perfectly between the eye 15 and rrt-01
kinda neat having a 18650 rrt01 and a 16340 eye15.


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