# My Quick LRI Proton Pro Review



## this_is_nascar (Dec 13, 2007)

This may be the 1xAA LED light I've been waiting for. The exterior of the Pro looks like the normal Proton, except its a bit taller due to the reflector in the bezel. The lobster-claw attachment that comes with the normal Proton is no longer part of the Pro package. The Pro comes with just a small split-ring, already installed. I've done no runtime testing on the Pro as of this time. The single Cree LED is centered in the reflector, with a small cutout to let the RED light come out the front. The RED LED is actually buried underneath, behind the reflector. It makes for non-true circle beam of the RED light, however its only noticeable if you're looking for it and it has not effect on using the light.

To me, this light is fantastic. I've always loved the UI (wouldn't mind a couple tweaks specific to my needs) of the LRI product line. The beam is looks like your typical Cree-based emitter, however, there's something about this little power-house that just makes it seem different. While this light is definitely more of a thrower than the flood-type light produced by the standard Proton, the Pro's beam is extremely useful. While being a great thrower, you don't lose as much spill/flood as you'd expect.

Not only is the Proton Pro a keeper for me, it's going to be a light to replace quite a few other lights. For those wanting a very useful, small, powerful light in a 1xAA form-factor, take a look at the new LRI Proton Pro.

































Edit #1: Here's the 1st runtime graph on one of my units. This shows a Ray-o-Vac alkaline vs. an Energizer E2 lithium. For each test, the light was started at full brightness.







Edit #2: Here's a beamshot, comparing a 6xNichia Proton to the new 1xCree Proton Pro. Each picture was done in auto-exposure, in a partially lit room, with both lights on high. The lights were positioned about 4-feet from the off-white wall. The 1st shot, the picture was taken from a foot behind the lights. The 2nd photo was taken from three feet behind the lights. Each photo appears a bit more-blue than what my eyes really see. Like I said, I had the camera in auto-mode, with no flash.











I'll let you guys figure out which one is which. As you can see, while we say the Pro has more throw, you can not really say that it's lacking in flood or spill light. It's extremely useful.


Edit #3: I always like to do runtime of multiple units, to see the differences between them. I'm not about to measure all (5) of my Proton Pro's, but here's the comparision between (2) of the units. As will all advanced lights such as the Pro, the LED as well as the circuit allows for differences in runtime/brightness. In addition, whose to say that power is consistant amongst batteries also.







Edit #4: As requested, here's an updated runtime chart that shows the comparative differences between a REV1 Proton with the new Proton Pro.







Edit #5: There are not the best shots I've ever taken, but this somewhat shows what's inside the bezel. Be warned, if you unscrew the bezel ring, it's a PITA to get back on. There's a O-Ring on the non-ring part that you must clear, by 1st pushing the bezel ring back on, then screwing.












Edit #6: I found my Sanyo 2500 NiMH cells, so I thought I'd do a test. Here's the results. I don't like the huge drop in the 1st couple of minutes. Even worse, I don't like the weight of the light with the NiMH in there. It feels like you're packin' a hunk of pipe.







Edit #7: While I'm waiting on the donor Sanyo Eneloop cell to arrive (thank you Paul <LED_Thrift>), I've decided to perform a wall-clock runtime test of the Pro on its lowest WHITE LED setting. This test is using a Duracell 1xAA alkaline cell. The Pro produces very useful light on it lowest setting, so I'm curious as to how long it will run. I took a baseline measurement on the light-meter, so I can get a percentage of light output drop as the test progresses.


Edit #8: This is an update to Edit #7, which will be added to post #1, as Edit #8. The test that started on 01/14 has ended today, on 01/24. I think this was a very useful test of the Pro on its lowest White LED setting, using a standard Duracell alkaline battery. Tonight, when I came home, the light was off. I know it was still on this morning at 06:00, so it must have died sometime after that. As of this morning, the light was down to about 50% brightness of the original output at the start of the test. That being said, we can say that the Pro, on a standard Duracell, will run approximately 230-hours constantly, producing very useful light. I really want to repeat this test using the RED LED on its highest setting. That test will have to wait. Right now, the Pro is running a test with the Ray-O-Vac Hybrid battery that was sent to me by LED_Thrift. After that, a test with the Eneloop will be performed. Both of these tests are being done on the highest setting, to compare with the Sanyo 2500 niMH test that I had already performed.

I forgot to add............ after noticing the light was off when I got home, I metered the battery. It displayed .95 volts. When attempting to re-fire the Pro with the cell, it flashed on for a second or two tops, both a dim RED and dim WHITE.


Edit #9: Here's the runtime comparison of various niMH cells.

-- Ray-O-Vac Hybrid with a starting voltage of 1.35 volts, ending voltage of .89 volts.
-- Sanyo Eneloop with a starting voltage of 1.27 volts, ending voltage of .95 volts.
-- The starting voltage of the Sanyo 2500 was never taken.

All tests were performed until the RED LED came on, indicating it was time for a battery change.


Edit #10: Here's the niMH test again, after the Hybrids and Eneloops rested for a couple hours after being fully charged.

Eneloop @ 1.43 volts after resting 2-hours after charge, 1.08 volts after test.
Hybrid @ 1.41 volts after resting 2-hours after charge, 1.09 volts after test.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Dec 13, 2007)

Beamshots???


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## StandardBattery (Dec 13, 2007)

*Nice Photos!* I agree this light is a *keeper! :thumbsup:*


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## regulator (Dec 13, 2007)

Thanks for the pictures and review. The Proton Pro has some tough competition with the lights you got there. Very impressive that it is so well recieved. I would hit the buy button now but I think I have to at least wait until my Defender arrives. If I was not already waiting on that light I would probably already be using a Proton.


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## regulator (Dec 13, 2007)

Hey TIN, out of curiosity I have a question for you. Since you have a lot of great lights (and some are very versatile - such as the Novatac) what make you like the Proton so much? I ask the question because, like a lot of us, we have many lights (more than one needs) but keep them because there are cetain things we like about them that the others lights may not have. Or one light has a cetain feature that really stands out.


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## Chao (Dec 13, 2007)

this_is_nascar said:


>


This is exactly what I want to see, thanks for the pics and review!


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 13, 2007)

regulator said:


> Hey TIN, out of curiosity I have a question for you. Since you have a lot of great lights (and some are very versatile - such as the Novatac) what make you like the Proton so much? I ask the question because, like a lot of us, we have many lights (more than one needs) but keep them because there are certain things we like about them that the others lights may not have. Or one light has a certain feature that really stands out.



Great question. Let me try to answer, based on my preferences. While I like the small size of the CR123/DL123 cell, I never liked the idea of using them. They are still not considered a "standard" cell, even though they've been available in the USA for quite sometime now. They are not a cell that you're normal "Joe User" would have with them in one of their electronic devices. Up until recently, if you wanted performance from a light, you were really limited by the CR123 format. My personal quest has always been finding single cell lights that function well on the AA and AAA format. I only ever EDC no more than (2) lights on my person, with a third light on my keychain. In work, my keychain lives in my bag, so it's not being EDC'ied throughout the day. For the last 4-years or so, the Arc-AAA has taken one of those slots. When the Proton came along, that replaced my FF-II. This is ideal for me, since I now have a AA and AAA light with me at all times. What that means, for me, that in a disaster/crises situation, I have a very good chance of having endless hours of light for search/rescue/survival, without the need to carrying spare cells. It very likely that the others who may be stranded with me have, on their possession, either a AAA or AA cell. Chances are they DO NOT have a CR123/DL123 with them. This could be the difference between life/death, being rescued/never being found. Yes, it's extreme, but I've been trapped in elevators without light for several hours. It's not a pleasant feeling.

What this Proton Pro now provides for me (again, I haven't even had it for a full day yet) is a light that I actually like, with the features I prefer, in an AA format. Sure those other lights pictured are nice, but they're not practical in my life for what I'm looking for in personal EDC lighting.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 13, 2007)

Thanks for the review, t_i_n. I'm pleased to hear you like the new Proton. Not sure I'll be able to resist much longer.

Geoff


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## regulator (Dec 13, 2007)

TIN - Thanks for the reply. I think that a lot of people have a similar feeling and attraction to a well made and flexible AA light. It may not excell in any particular catagory, but it does well in so many combined catagories and is "practical" and "convinient" as well.


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## Mr. Blue (Dec 14, 2007)

congrats Ray...
are you going to post your run time graphs?
is only Protron selling these now?


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## paulr (Dec 14, 2007)

How does the beam compare with the typical reflectored 1x123 Cree lights from brand F and so forth?


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 14, 2007)

The 1st post has been updated with runtime data.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 14, 2007)

Yes, only Proton (LRI) is selling these now from what I understand. For the most part, the beam is typical for a Cree in a reflectored light of this size. As with the Cree I've seen, there are noticable tint differences as well. The 1st unit tested (runtime data is now in post #1) is the whiter of the two units that I have.


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## geepondy (Dec 14, 2007)

Thanks from myself also for the initial review. I would have to see beamshots before purchasing. I know the Pro is advertised as (obviously) having a more narrow beam but how narrow? While perhaps the 5mm's may be too wide, I certainly want a wider as opposed to a thrower beam for my small EDC pocket light as the majority of the lighting tasks are going to be from a few inches to a few feet. An example of a lux beam I find too narrow for my general tastes except for throwing is the SL Polypro Lux. I hope the Proton Pro does not exhibit this narrow of a beam.


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## skalomax (Dec 14, 2007)

Thanks TIN.

I gave mine away to a relative, He liked It alot.
I'll just buy another.


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## Chao (Dec 14, 2007)

Got mine today, after playing it for a while, love this light very much, the total output is similar to my L1D CE (P4) in turbo level, and the lux reading was 1230 lux.
This light is so wonderful: very bright, continuous output levels, side button switch, perfect UI, red LED inside, strobe and SOS functions and only need one AA battery. Thanks for build this light:thumbsup:


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## paulr (Dec 15, 2007)

How does the size of this light compare with other well known 1aa cree lights? Any chance of a comparison runtime graph with a rechargeable?


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## Mr. Blue (Dec 15, 2007)

this_is_nascar said:


> For the most part, the beam is typical for a Cree in a reflectored light of this size. T/QUOTE]
> 
> does that mean "halos" and non existent donut holes?
> 
> ...


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 15, 2007)

paulr said:


> How does the size of this light compare with other well known 1aa cree lights? Any chance of a comparison runtime graph with a rechargeable?



I no longer have any other 1xAA lights and I don't recall the size to say a Fenix. Sorry, I won't be doing any testing with rechargables.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 15, 2007)

Mr. Blue said:


> this_is_nascar said:
> 
> 
> > For the most part, the beam is typical for a Cree in a reflectored light of this size. T/QUOTE]
> ...


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## BentHeadTX (Dec 15, 2007)

this_is_nascar said:


> While I like the small size of the CR123/DL123 cell, I never liked the idea of using them. They are still not considered a "standard" cell, even though they've been available in the USA for quite sometime now. They are not a cell that you're normal "Joe User" would have with them in one of their electronic devices. Up until recently, if you wanted performance from a light, you were really limited by the CR123 format. My personal quest has always been finding single cell lights that function well on the AA and AAA format.



Well put, TIN
I think the same way and have overhauled my EDC lights to only use AAA/AA batteries (Eneloops in my case) The small L0D Q4 replaced my FF3 on the keychain and it feels better to not use a proprietary RCR123 battery on my keychain and no worries about safety issues. My Peak Baltic SSC runs the highest output available and sits in a Leatherman Charge Ti multi-tool holster side pocket. Pull it out, crank it up and "mouth" it when I am working on something. My Quad Q5 Cree MaxFlex variable-output light is under construction and it runs eight Eneloop AA cells (or alkalines in a pinch) 
I'll be going overseas later next year and lighting becomes critical. An Arc AAA red LED light on the neck lanyard, the Baltic in the Leatherman holster and ???? for belt mount EDC. Have a Peak Med 2AA stainless steel w/momentary switch (bomb-proof light) The Quad Q5 Mag for mega output and a 360nM UV AA Peak to detect blood and scorpions. 
The Proton Pro would be perfect for belt mount EDC. The belt clip will make it an easy draw and I use a berkley clip to attach it to a belt loop for extra security when crawling around. Yes, I carry a red, UV and two white lights in those situations. Now that technology allows AAA/AA cells to fill all my needs, why not use them? 
TIN can you take a picture of the positive contact of the Proton Pro? My hope is it can handle very harsh conditions and not break if used over a thousand times in a 6 month period. 
Is 2008 the year of contentment?


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 15, 2007)

I'm not sure I can get a really good picture of that. It appears to be the same as the fixed version of the Proton regular. I would definately use that attachment you're talking about for the extra security. While I absolutely love the clip, I wouldn't use it for belt mounting without an extra safety attachment. Although that clip can be a bit of a bear to take off, I'm fearful that if use the clip to belt-carry and happen to "hit" the light with a bit of force, it would pull right out, leaving you with a lost light. I carry my Proton/Proton Pro using the clip to the right side front pocket, clipped, with the actual light resting inside the pocket.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 15, 2007)

Post #1 has been updated with some beam shots.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 15, 2007)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> Beamshots???



See post #1.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Dec 15, 2007)

this_is_nascar said:


> See post #1.


 
Thanks alot TIN! Excellent review! I couldn't hold back any longer. Order placed. :twothumbs


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## Dreamer (Dec 15, 2007)

TIN, thanks for sharing ur opinion on Proton Pro. Would be nice to see how it perform against other Cree lights such as Fenix or DX lights.


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## Freedom1955 (Dec 15, 2007)

Thanks for doing this review TIN. 

Mine should be arriving today! Can hardly wait to get this light. I really like the button on the side.

I'm curious to see how it does with rechargeables.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 15, 2007)

Yes, I like the side switch as well, except I'm always concerned about it activately while in my pocket. I haven't tried the auto-off easter egg that's been discovered yet.

I can't comment on any DX lights, since I've never seen or had one. The only Cree based Fenix I've had is the LOD and I don't really consider them to be comparible. To be honest, with the UI of the Proton/Proton Pro, I consider these lights to be in a class all their own. Two different LED colors (RED and WHITE), a much broader range of light coming out the front, etc.


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## Freedom1955 (Dec 15, 2007)

Mine just came in the mail. Very nice light. The central hotspot is not quite as defined as TIN's but I can live with it. 
I noticed right away that this thing can go low,very low, it must run a long time on it's lowest setting.


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## Alan B (Dec 15, 2007)

Just received Proton PRO here. Some quick observations.

Out of the box the clip does not touch the body, so no rubbing or side force there. Threads are lubed. 3 turns to remove tailcap. Threads feel good, are fairly fine. Split ring and clip preinstalled, as is Lithium AA, as others have noted. Glow O ring inside lens charges from ambient or flashlight on.

After turnoff the red led blinks, not sure I've seen that noted before. On mine the RED LED is left of the main white LED (button up looking into the light).

Quick comparison to Fenix L1Dq5. Proton on supplied Lithium AA, Fenix on NiMH not fully charged.

Proton is same length, slightly smaller diameter than the Fenix.

Light output very comparable to the Fenix on High (not Turbo), though hotspot is smaller, perhaps 2/3 diameter. Darker ring around hotspot a bit more pronounced on the Proton, probably due to the Fenix having slightly stippled reflector. Spill intensity and diameter the same.

Overall looks good so far.

-- Alan


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## cave dave (Dec 15, 2007)

I'm curious about the frequency of the PWM used to dim the light. 

Also can the head be removed to expose the reflector, LED, etc. I'd just just want to slip some Fastcar diffuser material between lens and reflector, but upgradeable LED is always a plus.


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## Alan B (Dec 15, 2007)

cave dave said:


> I'm curious about the frequency of the PWM used to dim the light.


 
Just did a quick test. Put it alongside the Fenix L0Dq4 and moved them quickly. It is about 2-3x the frequency of the L0Dq4.

-- Alan


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## Freedom1955 (Dec 15, 2007)

Here's a couple beam shots of mine from about 3 feet off color wall.


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## StandardBattery (Dec 15, 2007)

Update to my earlier comments:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2263925&postcount=28

The negative contact in the tail cap has put a small dent in my AA Eneloop. I don't mind this too much, but I worry of the negative contact might break at some point. Not from the direct pressure, but the lateral pressure as the cap is being twisted on and off.

I have used the light for the last couple of days whenever I needed a little light. I had it running for approx 20 minutes continously at one point and the entire flashlight gets quite noticably warm. I did not notice any dimming of the output however.

I'm still very happy with the light, this is a great 1AA light.

The battery tube is thinner than most AA or CR123A lights and that seems to work very well for this light.


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## half-watt (Dec 15, 2007)

StandardBattery said:


> The battery tube is thinner than most AA or CR123A lights and that seems to work very well for this light.



double-post somehow??? hit Browser refresh and back buttons when connection hung on SAVING edited reply???


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## half-watt (Dec 15, 2007)

StandardBattery said:


> The battery tube is thinner than most AA or CR123A lights and that seems to work very well for this light.




from an engineering design standpoint, the ribbing on the light's body/barrel/tube adds structural strength versus a smooth tube of constant diameter throughout its length with walls of the same thickness - net result, thinner and stronger for its weight and materials. the ribbing allows the Proton/ProtonPro to use a thinner wall and still maintain a fair degree of strength. very nice design LRI.

ribbing also provides a more surface area for transferring heat/thermal energy out of the light.


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## half-watt (Dec 15, 2007)

TIN,

very nice review and excellent runtime plots. thank you for taking the time to perform the testing.

a question and a request, please.


request: could you please add the original Proton (6x5mm LEDs) to your runtime plots? it might serve as a good frame of reference for those considering purchasing the new Pro version (yes, diff. LEDs and so diff. lights, but if runtime is a big issue for someone, seeing the diff. b/t runtimes might be an important selling point. i think the Pro might burn longer on HIGHEST than the original 6x5mm LEDs - at least your results versus published 1.5h HIGH for the original).


question: i'd like to do runtime testing and plots myself. could you please describe your setup to obtain, collect, and plot the data (e.g. Logging Lux meter model, USB interface, XL for plotting the data, etc., etc.).

many thanks,
pj aka half-watt


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## Mr. Blue (Dec 15, 2007)

whoa...major difference between the old and the new, although I will probably bite, it's a shame about that first donut hole..it really detracts on the white wall circuit. Hopefully, real life won't mind.
you rock TIN


edit...why didn't they do texture to smooth out the beam in exchange for a smidge of throw?


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## Alan B (Dec 15, 2007)

Now that it is dark, another quick comparison here between my new Proton PRO and my Surefire Kroma on RED.

Both on high level. The Proton RED beam has a soft hotspot that is about the size of the Cree ring in the white beam, so it is much larger than the Cree hotspot (about twice the diameter). There is a dark ring around that, and then an asymmetrical red ring around that - the ring disappears at the location of the actual RED LED's position in the reflector.

The intensity of the Photon's RED hotspot is higher than the Kroma, but the Kroma has no hotspot and puts out a floody wall of red light. Appears to be lots more red lumens from the Kroma over a much larger area. 

The intensity of the PHOton's red hotspot is sufficient to see things well at some distance, even with non dark adjusted eyes. Very useful.

As someone else suggested, I'd like to see the PROton with a moderate diffusing lens. Could be a great combination.

Now a comparison with the Kroma on white. Both lights on high white. Photon hotspot is brighter than Kroma hotspot. Not a huge difference, but very clearly brighter. Again, the Kroma has a much larger hotspot/corona coverage and cleaner gradient from hotspot to fill. In the outer fill region, the PROton is again brighter. Total lumens is hard to judge here, but I suspect that PROton is greater. The Kroma's gradient hotspot is larger, but the fill is pretty dark once you get away from the corona a ways. 

They are both excellent lights, not really equivalent in many ways, but similar in the RED/white feature.

Today I carried the PROton (should we call it that to differentiate it from the older non-PRO for short?) in my shirt/labcoat breast pocket. It worked well there. Being somewhat thinner than many other AA lights, it fits slightly better in a clip to pocket mode than, say a Fenix or Olight.

Fun Light!

-- Alan


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## Dreamer (Dec 16, 2007)

Looks like an interesting light... anyone know when the sale price of $62.96 will expire? Would like to read more reviews before getting it. The operation is the same as the old one right? Is the rubber switch similar to the old LRI, according to flashlightreviews.com - "One thing that does bother me about the switch is the design of the rubber cover. The rubber cover overlaps the hole the switch is in. As a result, the edges of the rubber cover can get caught and lifted. It looks to me like there will be a fairly high probability that the switch cover will eventually get caught on something and tear or pull completely out." If I get it, this is the Made in USA AA flashlight in my collection. .


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## paulr (Dec 16, 2007)

My understanding is that the computerized Photons (Freedom, Proton, and Fusion) are all made in China. The original models were originally made in the USA but I don't know if they still are.


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## Freedom1955 (Dec 16, 2007)

Dreamer said:


> If I get it, this is the Made in USA AA flashlight in my collection. .



I believe that Proton Pro is made in China.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 16, 2007)

Yes, the Pro is made in China. Back with the original Proton was delayed, then released with the initial issues, the fact that it was made in China was the big main target of people's reasoning for the issues. The Pro, has the "Made in China" sticker attached to the underside of the clip.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 16, 2007)

Dreamer said:


> Looks like an interesting light... anyone know when the sale price of $62.96 will expire? Would like to read more reviews before getting it. The operation is the same as the old one right? Is the rubber switch similar to the old LRI, according to flashlightreviews.com - "One thing that does bother me about the switch is the design of the rubber cover. The rubber cover overlaps the hole the switch is in. As a result, the edges of the rubber cover can get caught and lifted. It looks to me like there will be a fairly high probability that the switch cover will eventually get caught on something and tear or pull completely out." If I get it, this is the Made in USA AA flashlight in my collection. .



I don't think anyone knows when the special pricing will end. Check the website for more details. Yes, the operation of the Pro is this same as the REV1/REV2 Proton. I have no fears concerning the rubber boot. I can't see it getting caught on anything or pulling up or off. My biggest concern with this light as always been its exposure to being activated accidently while carrying/transporting.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 16, 2007)

Mr. Blue said:


> whoa...major difference between the old and the new, although I will probably bite, it's a shame about that first donut hole..it really detracts on the white wall circuit. Hopefully, real life won't mind.
> you rock TIN
> 
> 
> edit...why didn't they do texture to smooth out the beam in exchange for a smidge of throw?



I'm a white-wall hunter from way back and it really doesn't bother me. I continue to be amazed how the combination of the hotspot and throw in this little light still makes for a very useful task light for close-up useage. I'm glad LRI didn't use the textured reflector. You can try a piece of that transucent Scotch Tape over the lens. That will smooth out some of the hotspot and it's easily removable if you don't like it.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 16, 2007)

half-watt said:


> TIN,
> 
> very nice review and excellent runtime plots. thank you for taking the time to perform the testing.
> 
> ...




Good idea. I'll see if I can fire-up my REV2 Proton and plot those numbers compared to the Pro. If I had to take a guess, I'm thinking the Pro will burn longer on HIGH than the REV1/REV2. I use nothing more than Extech 401036 Data Logging Light Meter with the included software. While that software has it's own charting tools, I prefer to export the data to the Excel to make the graphs.


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## Alan B (Dec 16, 2007)

Dreamer said:


> Looks like an interesting light... anyone know when the sale price of $62.96 will expire? Would like to read more reviews before getting it.


 
Dealers such as Batteryjunction often discount more than that, so waiting should be cost-effective.

-- Alan


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## cabindriver (Dec 16, 2007)

Alan B said:


> Dealers such as Batteryjunction often discount more than that, so waiting should be cost-effective.
> 
> -- Alan


That's what I'm waiting for. But it sure isn't easy!


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 16, 2007)

You guys have more patience than I do. How much you saving by waiting, $5 or $10 bucks? I ordered from LRI and had them in my hands 2-days later.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 16, 2007)

Post #1 has been updated with runtime data for the REV1 Proton, compared to the Proton Pro.


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## cabindriver (Dec 16, 2007)

this_is_nascar said:


> You guys have more patience than I do. How much you saving by waiting, $5 or $10 bucks? I ordered from LRI and had them in my hands 2-days later.


We sure do! I guess it's all about disposable income; or just being cheap
Thanks for your review, BTW.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 16, 2007)

Post #1 has been updated with a couple pictures showing what's under the reflector.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Dec 16, 2007)

Awesome review TIN! One of the best I've seen in quite a while. Looks like LRI should be paying you since this thread has given them quite a few orders (like my own) . 

I have mine coming sometime this week and will do a short review with beamshots comared to some of my lights (T10 Q5, L1DCE, Streamlight 4AA Luxeon).


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## half-watt (Dec 16, 2007)

this_is_nascar said:


> Post #1 has been updated with runtime data for the REV1 Proton, compared to the Proton Pro.




Many thanks TIN. as we expected the ProtonPro outperforms the Original Proton in burntime testing. so, other than the nice flood beam and the very slightly longer length (who knows, it might matter to someone???), the Pro is the way to go.

i could live with the slightly lesser burntime if LRI manufactured a 6x5mm DS version of the Original Proton. i like the flood pattern of the original.


if you feel up to it and have some other lights handy, perhaps add the curve for a couple of other 1xAA lights (e.g. Olight T15 (P4 or Q5) and a Fenix L1D-CE or L1D-Q5; maybe even a L0D-CE or L0D-Q4 even though they're 1xAAA lights). i for one would find it interesting to see how the ProtonPro compares to some of the other popular 1xAA lights. sorry, don't mean to make this into a full time job for you.

as big a fan as i am of Fenix, IMO, the Pro has them beat as far as packaging goes - a nice, small light.


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## Minjin (Dec 16, 2007)

Looks like the emitter is easily accessible for future upgrades. :thumbsup:


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 16, 2007)

Thanks again everyone. I too would like to see a 6xDS version made available. I can see where some would perfer the shorter length of the light, the fact that the RED emitter is center within the bezel and the non-hotspot affect of the non-Pro.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 16, 2007)

half-watt, I no longer have any Fenix lights in my collection.


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## Dreamer (Dec 16, 2007)

this_is_nascar said:


> I don't think anyone knows when the special pricing will end. Check the website for more details. Yes, the operation of the Pro is this same as the REV1/REV2 Proton. I have no fears concerning the rubber boot. I can't see it getting caught on anything or pulling up or off. My biggest concern with this light as always been its exposure to being activated accidently while carrying/transporting.


 
I don't really mind if it's made in China as long as the quality is there. It's nice to hear that the rubber boot can withstand the daily use. Most of my lights will be in the individual pouch, so I guess it won't be easily turned on.


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## Dreamer (Dec 16, 2007)

Alan B said:


> Dealers such as Batteryjunction often discount more than that, so waiting should be cost-effective.
> 
> -- Alan


 
I'd like to get from Batteryjunction but if I'm not mistaken, I don't think they ship overseas.


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## Ralls (Dec 18, 2007)

I just put my order in for a PROton as well as a Photon Freedom Micro with the new DS emitter. Thanks for the great review--sounds like a great light.


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## PhotonLight (Dec 18, 2007)

For those asking, the sale price is currently scheduled to run through Dec. 31st. The Proton Pro is 100% made in China, as is the Fusion headlamp. All Photon Micro-Lights (Photon I, II, & Freedom Micro) are made locally, here in Oregon although of course the circuit board is still made overseas.


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## paulr (Dec 18, 2007)

I also vote for 6xDS. We have enough narrow beam lights by now. We need more floods.


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## max3d (Dec 18, 2007)

Very interesting light. Can anyone measure it up? I can't find the length on the official website and I consider 90 mm the maximum for my EDC (but would love to have the red led etc.)


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 18, 2007)

max3d said:


> Very interesting light. Can anyone measure it up? I can't find the length on the official website and I consider 90 mm the maximum for my EDC (but would love to have the red led etc.)



Can other lights measure up to the Proton Pro? I guess the answer depends on what you're looking for in a particular light. There are many other lights out there that are brighter, with more runtime on high, which are smaller, etc. I've always been a fan of LRI and the products they've released, so I'm probably not all that impartial. The Proton and Proton Pro would have had to be a huge "bomb" for me to think negatively of the product(s).

For me, I've had a quest for years, for a 1xAA light that has multiple brightness levels. I've always loved the LRI UI, although I wouldn't mind some minor tweaks to better suit my needs. The biggest, being the ability to start out with a low white beam, then ramp to high, as opposed to the current UI, which starts on high white then ramps down. The usefulness of the beam on the Pro is really hard to describe. This thing is a really good thrower with a concentrated hot-spot, however the flood and broadness of the wider portion of the beam is extremely useful too. It's really the best combination of a focused throw monster with useful corona that I've ever seen. I also liked the idea of the RED low-level beam which has so many uses in what I do with a flashlight. That UI coupled with the (2) Easter eggs that we're aware of (50% brightness, power consumption mode + 3-minute auto shutoff) makes the Pro even a better choice for me. The Freedom also has these same Easter eggs.

I'm eagerly waiting for my ReX. I have (2) of them coming from LRI and another (2) coming from a Dealer. I expect to have them by the end of the week. I'm going out on a limb here, but it's highly likely my new EDC configuration will be LRI products exclusively, with an Arc-AAA on my key-chain, just in case all else fails. A Proton Pro clipped to the inside of my pocket, with a Freedom attached, a ReX living in my other pocket and another ReX on my key-chain may be my new configuration for the foreseeable future. The LRI products are that damn good.

So, "can anyone measure up" with the Pro? Maybe, maybe not, but there's nothing out there that I'm aware of to challenge them.


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## max3d (Dec 18, 2007)

this_is_nascar said:


> Can other lights measure up to the Proton Pro? I guess the answer depends on what you're looking for in a particular light. There are many other lights out there that are brighter, with more runtime on high, which are smaller, etc. I've always been a fan of LRI and the products they've released, so I'm probably not all that impartial. The Proton and Proton Pro would have had to be a huge "bomb" for me to think negatively of the product(s).
> 
> For me, I've had a quest for years, for a 1xAA light that has multiple brightness levels. I've always loved the LRI UI, although I wouldn't mind some minor tweaks to better suit my needs. The biggest, being the ability to start out with a low white beam, then ramp to high, as opposed to the current UI, which starts on high white then ramps down. The usefulness of the beam on the Pro is really hard to describe. This thing is a really good thrower with a concentrated hot-spot, however the flood and broadness of the wider portion of the beam is extremely useful too. It's really the best combination of a focused throw monster with useful corona that I've ever seen. I also liked the idea of the RED low-level beam which has so many uses in what I do with a flashlight. That UI coupled with the (2) Easter eggs that we're aware of (50% brightness, power consumption mode + 3-minute auto shutoff) makes the Pro even a better choice for me. The Freedom also has these same Easter eggs.
> 
> ...



If you sing this post aloud it sounds like a hymn 
But how tall is this miracle?


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## half-watt (Dec 18, 2007)

max3d said:


> If you sing this post aloud it sounds like a hymn
> But how tall is this miracle?




saw your earlier Post, but was NOT in a position to reply at that time as i did not have the ProtonPro with me.

at home now and have measured it's length:

rough measurement: ~98.0-98.5 mm in length (or "tall" if stood on end on it's bezel) - under 99mm on my Metric rule.

hope this info helps.


BTW, that Post may be sung to Luther's famous hymn: Ein' feste Burg ist unser Gott ("A Mighty Fortress Is Our God").


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## half-watt (Dec 18, 2007)

this_is_nascar said:


> I've always loved the LRI UI, although I wouldn't mind some minor tweaks to better suit my needs. The biggest, being the ability to start out with a low white beam, then ramp to high, as opposed to the current UI, which starts on high white then ramps down.




+1

not since Military days have i had the need for a RED light.

the LOWest white o.p. (output) setting is fine for me for use in many instances where my eyes already possess dark adaptation (e.g. waking up in the middle of the night to get ready for work).

i'd prefer the Original Proton and the ProtonPro to have had a WHITE only version, dropping the RED LED (or in the case of the Original, adding a seventh WHITE LED) in favor of just WHITE.

if this was done, then the Freedom Microlight UI could have been duplicated, giving the user who only wants WHITE light (and no RED) the choice of ramping up from dimmest or ramping down from brightest when the light is turned on.



EDIT:
Hardware (even low end, microcontrollers and PAL's) being what it is nowadays, i would be surprised if there wasn't more code/program space available in the Proton & ProtonPro's code/program memory to implement an additional feature to disable the RED LED (which could be later enabled if the need arose) and duplicate the Freedom Microlight's UI. These lights would become nearly "all things to all people", so to speak.

if code space was NOT available, i'd vote for dumping the "flashing"-type modes to free up space for implementing this choice of UI's. i bet 99+ percent of the time the flashing-type modes are NOT used, whereas the ability to ramp up or down at TURN-ON time would be used much more frequently.

there are probably some, but how many people with a real need for emergency signaling rely solely on the Proton for this purpose (yes,...i've read that Testomonial on the PhotonLight website; it begs the question that if the Proton didn't have the signaling feature, would something else have taken its place in that individual's gear)?


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 18, 2007)

Good point half-watt. I hadn't thought of it like that.


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## geepondy (Dec 18, 2007)

Wouldn't it be a no-brainer, low engineering cost for Photon to offer the Proton with the option of a white 5mm LED instead of the red?


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## Minjin (Dec 18, 2007)

geepondy said:


> Wouldn't it be a no-brainer, low engineering cost for Photon to offer the Proton with the option of a white 5mm LED instead of the red?


But why? What benefit would you get from running a single 5mm white LED vs the main beam? Its not going to be more efficient. And the main beam will run as low as you want. So there's no possible use for it.

As for the UI, I had thought that it WAS the same as a Freedom. I guess I really didn't consider that the addition of the red led would change it. So what happens if when off, you press and hold the button? On the Freedom, it will gradually ramp upwards. What does it do on the Proton?


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## Alan B (Dec 18, 2007)

It gradually ramps upwards the RED LED. Very nice.

But there is no way to ramp the white LED UP.

-- Alan


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## geepondy (Dec 18, 2007)

Yeah, that's sort of my point. They could offer other LED options. I gotta think there's a market for people who would rather ramp up a white LED instead of a red, or as mentioned, drop the 5mm LED altogether and just ramp up the main LED like a Freedom. Or how about this? a click and hold, ramps up the main white LED. A quick double click turns on the red LED at a very low setting. Then pressing and holding ramps up the red LED.



Alan B said:


> It gradually ramps upwards the RED LED. Very nice.
> 
> But there is no way to ramp the white LED UP.
> 
> -- Alan


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## half-watt (Dec 19, 2007)

there would be no need for replacing the RED LED with a 5mm white LED in the ProtonPro.

there is already a WHITE LED - viz. the Cree.

hence, the UI would merely ramp up the Cree.


cf. Post #67 above in this Thread.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Dec 20, 2007)

Received mine today. Very cool light! I'm impresssed! 

I'll be doing a small review later tonight.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Dec 20, 2007)

Damnit! I just went to turn my light on and it turned on very dim (in white) and then flickered and turned off. 
Looks like it will be going back to Photonlight for a refund. If a light doesn't work right out of the box then it's not for me.


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## Alan B (Dec 20, 2007)

Bummer on your bad light luck. 

I'm using mine every day, and it is doing fine. The side switch is a lot easier to manipulate than a rear clicky and the pocket clip works well. I like the red for navigating the floor clutter without waking the wife. It works well on the Sanyo Eneloop low self discharge NiMH cells. No concerns about lithium cells venting to flame. The light is a lot less bulky than the Fenix L1D.

-- Alan


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## Minjin (Dec 20, 2007)

Did you try charging it first?


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## Alan B (Dec 20, 2007)

Minjin said:


> Did you try charging it first?


 
It comes with a lithium primary AA, let's not charge that. Might try another cell, however, but he undoubtedly already did that.

-- Alan


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## adirondackdestroyer (Dec 20, 2007)

Alan B said:


> It comes with a lithium primary AA, let's not charge that. Might try another cell, however, but he undoubtedly already did that.
> 
> -- Alan


 
Yep. I tried another (brand new) Energizer Lithium. I have no clue what could have happened. :sigh:


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## half-watt (Dec 21, 2007)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> I just went to turn my light on and it turned on very dim (in white) and then flickered and turned off.




though your symptoms sound different, i'll mention this anyways.

was the light still in Demo/POS (i.e. "Point of Sale" - i think that's why they changed the name to "Demonstration") mode?

in "Demo" mode, the light will come on for a few seconds and then "automagically" turn off.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Dec 21, 2007)

half-watt said:


> though your symptoms sound different, i'll mention this anyways.
> 
> was the light still in Demo/POS (i.e. "Point of Sale" - i think that's why they changed the name to "Demonstration") mode?
> 
> in "Demo" mode, the light will come on for a few seconds and then "automagically" turn off.


 
No. I changed it to normal mode right away. I played with it for probabley 5 minutes before my Basketball game. I planed on doing a quick review when I got back, and when I went to start the light crapped the bed on me.


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## Freedom1955 (Dec 21, 2007)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> No. I changed it to normal mode right away. I played with it for probabley 5 minutes before my Basketball game. I planed on doing a quick review when I got back, and when I went to start the light crapped the bed on me.




That can happen to any light. 
I like the IU and the side button so much if that happened to me I'd return it for another one, although I would probably be upset that I had to go through that and have to wait for the exchange.


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## Minjin (Dec 21, 2007)

Alan B said:


> It comes with a lithium primary AA, let's not charge that. Might try another cell, however, but he undoubtedly already did that


Actually, I got distracted while reading the thread and thought this review was for the LRI Rex (a rechargeable micro light).


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 21, 2007)

We need someone to come up with a good way to put some trit vials in this puppy. On my regular Proton, I have a very small vial installed, however I'm not longer able to get them.


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## regulator (Dec 21, 2007)

I think that one of the really nice features of the Proton is the ability to make all the adjustments to output using one hand. The more I use my ReX (my first LRI product and introduction to their UI) the more I see the benifits. Some other nice lights have really good features but require 2 hands to operate them. 

I would really like the ability to ramp the white light "up" as with their other products. But I am seeing some of the benifits of the red LED. The Pro could do equally as well by eliminating the red LED and having the white ramp up - just my opinion.

EDIT: Another thing that comes to mind that makes the Pro nice to use is not having to operate the light in "tacktical" mode with the rear switch. Typically if you are holding the light and your arm is to your side you can quickly and easily activate the side switch without having to lift your arm to aim the light. Can anyone tell I am looking at reasons to get this light?


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## adirondackdestroyer (Dec 22, 2007)

I called Photonlight and they are sending me a new one no questions asked and are also sending a slip for a free return shipping. A+ customer service.


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## half-watt (Dec 22, 2007)

regulator said:


> I think that one of the really nice features of the Proton is the ability to make all the adjustments to output using one hand. The more I use my ReX (my first LRI product and introduction to their UI) the more I see the benifits. Some other nice lights have really good features but require 2 hands to operate them.
> 
> I would really like the ability to ramp the white light "up" as with their other products. But I am seeing some of the benifits of the red LED. The Pro could do equally as well by eliminating the red LED and having the white ramp up - just my opinion.




+1. cf. Post #67 in this Thread. 

i have my NovaTac EDC 120P programmed to turn on (the "Primary" setting) at 0.47 lumens. the Proton at its lowest white o.p. level is noticeably dimmer than the 0.47 lumens of the NovaTac EDC 120P.


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## half-watt (Dec 22, 2007)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> I called Photonlight and they are sending me a new one no questions asked and are also sending a slip for a free return shipping. A+ customer service.



+1 "A+ customer service".

NOW, IMO, THAT IS A COMPANY WITH HONOR!!!

IMO, that is the way all should do business.

this "send back to us [sometimes at your own expense] the DEFECTIVE product we sent you (usually NOT their fault as who can verify functionality of every item they sell?!) and when we eventually get it back we will eventually send a new one back to you" policy is really "customer disservice", IMO. [or, they charge your CC for a second one if you want it sent out right away & then later on get around to crediting your CC *IF* and when the carrier they suggested to you returns it to them and their receiving dept. doesn't lose it - this is the voice of experience speaking here.]

this is like blaming the customer (at least in part) for their problems - like a customer is really intending to purchase a defective product???


PhotonLights is be HIGHLY commended. kudos to you Bryan. You are apparently a man of honor.

there are only a few companies that do this. those are the ones i do the most business with and whenever they have a product even if others also have it, i do business with them for this very reason - even if their price is a little higher (what price can one put on a customer service "headache" - i look at it as "insurance", so to speak).


i'm sure that you will greatly enjoy your new light - very nice UI (but could be slightly improved - ADD "HUNTING" to the UI, please), highly functional, very small 1xAA form factor (as compared to some of my other favorites from LumaPower and Fenix) - very easy to EDC, quite bright for its intended use, yet has that very low LOW white o.p. many desire (and also the RED LED if some truly have a requirement for that).

enjoy.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 22, 2007)

I had a similar good experience with Bryan at Photonlight back when I first joined the forum. It involved a Photon 3 that didn't work right when received.

Geoff


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## Alan B (Dec 22, 2007)

Red Flash after Turn-Off

Do other folks notice this red flash after turning the light off? Does this have some meaning, or ??

-- Alan


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## half-watt (Dec 22, 2007)

Alan B said:


> Red Flash after Turn-Off
> 
> Do other folks notice this red flash after turning the light off? Does this have some meaning, or ??
> 
> -- Alan




not sure precisely what it means. i believe, however, that it is a gross indication of cell's SOC (state of charge). 

try a fresh cell and see if the flash does NOT occur.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 22, 2007)

On both the Proton and Proton Pro, it's perfectly normal for the RED LED to flash once it's turned off. I don't recall the reasoning as to why it does this, but it does and it's normal.

This should not be confused with the Proton/Proton Pro's ability to tell you when the cell needs replacing. In that scenerio, while in use, both the white and RED LED will be on. So, the next time you fire up the white and the RED LED is glowing, it's time for a new cell. Ramp the light down a bit to conserve power. This is assuming you haven't enabled the RED/WHITE led on at the same time trick.


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## Alan B (Dec 22, 2007)

I get the red after-off flash with freshly charged NiMH.

-- Alan


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## half-watt (Dec 22, 2007)

Alan B said:


> I get the red after-off flash with freshly charged NiMH.
> 
> -- Alan




does it happen with a nearly dead cell (i.e. one where both red & white LEDs are on dimly at the same time - the low-batt warning TIN mentioned)?


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## Alan B (Dec 22, 2007)

I found a low duracell in my battery recycle box that measures in the "?" region of the battery tester meter and installed it in the PRO. It lights the RED led when the white main LED is on, so it is in the "low" range and the PRO is indicating that.

The RED after-off flash remains.

Perhaps it is just an artifact of the micro powering down..

-- Alan


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## half-watt (Dec 22, 2007)

Alan B said:


> I found a low duracell in my battery recycle box that measures in the "?" region of the battery tester meter and installed it in the PRO. It lights the RED led when the white main LED is on, so it is in the "low" range and the PRO is indicating that.
> 
> The RED after-off flash remains.
> 
> ...




many thanks, Alan, for the extra effort. looks like it must be "an artifact" as you termed it. don't know what else it could mean as both low batt and fresh batt do the same thing.


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## nuggett (Dec 23, 2007)

Got mine yesterday. Finally a side switch light. No need to contort my hands to twist or press a tailcap. 
the tube is nice and slim, smaller than I expected. very nice clip, easy to put on and off, no wrestling. the UI is a gold standard of UIs. the beam is equal in brightness to my jetbeam ClE v2.
the body is a bit slippery...dropped it 3 times...but it still works!
I only wish for a brighter high beam, its multi level, so why not a fire starter for a high? Minor point though. its a fun, easy to use light with many nice features.


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## tygger (Dec 23, 2007)

Anyone have a guess as to what the runtime would be if you dimmed the proton down to around 75% brightness? For extended periods I try to run mine slightly lower than high to extend battery life but I'm wondering if it makes much of a difference. Anyone done a runtime test at slightly less than high mode?


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## paulr (Dec 24, 2007)

I wish they'd made the tailcap flatter so the light could tail stand. That is a very handy feature.

Ray, do you still have the dead batteries left over from the runtime tests? What happens if you put them back in the light and try running the light at a lower brightness setting?

As far as I'm concerned the HDS 3 level twisty is the perfect interface. No accidental accidental activation, no useless blinking modes. I just wish it ran on an AA. But with the 3 minute timeout the photons seem a lot more trustworthy than they did before.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 25, 2007)

paulr said:


> I wish they'd made the tailcap flatter so the light could tail stand. That is a very handy feature.
> 
> Ray, do you still have the dead batteries left over from the runtime tests? What happens if you put them back in the light and try running the light at a lower brightness setting?
> 
> As far as I'm concerned the HDS 3 level twisty is the perfect interface. No accidental accidental activation, no useless blinking modes. I just wish it ran on an AA. But with the 3 minute timeout the photons seem a lot more trustworthy than they did before.



I agree with the tailstanding. I wish it was there too. No, sorry, the batteries were tossed. I haven't read too much about the new HDS light, but as far as I'm concerned, it's still vaporware. In the little that I have read about the HDS Twisty, I haven't seen anything that got me all excited. It's just another CR123 based light, that looks ugly to me, that really doesn't add anything new. Plus, you get to spend your money on it, only to find out 2-years later whatever warranty that's offered won't be honored by anyone. Sorry, didn't mean to turn this in an HDS bashing.


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## tygger (Dec 25, 2007)

paulr said:


> Ray, do you still have the dead batteries left over from the runtime tests? What happens if you put them back in the light and try running the light at a lower brightness setting?




FWIW, I put a dead AA alkaline (no reading on ZTS tester) into my original Proton and all the LED's came on at about 40% brightness. It wouldn't dim or change modes but still put out a fair amount of light.


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## Burgess (Dec 26, 2007)

Wow !


Here's another fine flashlight i'm gonna' hafta' get. 


Thank you to all for your comments and reviews ! 

:twothumbs
_


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## Rob187 (Dec 27, 2007)

As the UI is the same as the 7 LED version, the Pro also has the ability to make the red & white LEDs come on at the same time (press and hold button until red led blinks for the second time then simple press and both LEDs are on).

However, the cree is so much brighter that this feature is more or less redundant.


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## Afraid-of-the-dark (Dec 30, 2007)

Based on these comments and the mini-review (thanks for doing the leg work!) I just bought the Proton Pro. 

{It also doesn't hurt that they're Oregonians too.}

(Boy, I love and hate Candlepowerforums; I think all flashlight fiends know what I'm talking about....)


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## tygger (Dec 30, 2007)

You won't be disappointed. Last week I started running mine on AA alkaline just to guage runtime. I'd say with casual daily usage it should last at least few weeks.


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## paulr (Dec 30, 2007)

Is the PPro tailcap design such that it could be replaced with a flatter one for tail standing, if someone were to machine the replacement?


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 30, 2007)

paulr said:


> Is the PPro tailcap design such that it could be replaced with a flatter one for tail standing, if someone were to machine the replacement?



The awesome pocket clip is integrated into the tailcap, so some considerations would have to be made. If you remove the split-ring, the Pro and the Proton tailstand just fine. That being said, if one were ever to remove the split-ring, I don't see one ever being able to put one back on. To be honest, the only way to get it off may be to cut it off with wire cutters.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 30, 2007)

I took the split ring off my Proton at first. Decided to go back to using it and almost gave up trying to put it back. Finally got it, but it wasn't easy.

Geoff


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 30, 2007)

I remember reading somewhere that there's actually a tool to allow for easier split-ring installation. I have to do some research and see what I come up with. It's really a small ring in a tough location. I give you credit for being able to get it back on.


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## FlashCrazy (Dec 31, 2007)

Alan B said:


> Red Flash after Turn-Off
> 
> Do other folks notice this red flash after turning the light off? Does this have some meaning, or ??
> 
> -- Alan


 
Yep, mine does the same thing. Did it right from the start with the Energizer Lithium in it, and also does it with fresh charged Eneloops and others. 

I love the light though, but it would be even greater if they used an OP reflector. I'd also like to be able to ramp up the Cree from low. Maybe I'll try to change the red LED to a white LED for this purpose. I also bought the Rex at the same time, and I almost find myself using it around the house more than the Pro due to it's ability to start at low. Both are great lights though!


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 31, 2007)

this_is_nascar said:


> I remember reading somewhere that there's actually a tool to allow for easier split-ring installation. I have to do some research and see what I come up with. It's really a small ring in a tough location. I give you credit for being able to get it back on.



Looks like they're called split ring pliers. Who would have thought.


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## nuggett (Dec 31, 2007)

When I turn on my Pro, it takes a second to pop up from medium to high every time. IOW it turns on normally, then a second later, goes to full brightness by itself. Anyone notice this in theirs?


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## Alan B (Dec 31, 2007)

nuggett said:


> When I turn on my Pro, it takes a second to pop up from medium to high every time. IOW it turns on normally, then a second later, goes to full brightness by itself. Anyone notice this in theirs?


 
No, mine pops right to high. Except when I force it to red.

-- Alan


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 31, 2007)

All mine go right into high. The Proton and Proton Pro have a soft-start built-in feature. It sounds like yours is lagging a bit. I'd call to have it fixed or replaced.


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## Hitthespot (Dec 31, 2007)

Well Nascar I was going to pass on this light even though it looked interesting. Thanks, based on you really liking the light I now have to go check it out again. I know I'll end up buying one. 

Do you feel the Red LED is bright enough for say astronomy map reading and such.

Nice thread, I enjoyed reading about this light.

Thanks 

Bill


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## half-watt (Dec 31, 2007)

Hitthespot said:


> Well Nascar I was going to pass on this light even though it looked interesting. Thanks, based on you really liking the light I now have to go check it out again. I know I'll end up buying one.
> 
> Do you feel the Red LED is bright enough for say astronomy map reading and such.
> 
> ...



the red LED can be adjusted too bright for use relative to astronomy. even 50% might be considered to be too bright. no worries, as it starts out very dim and ramps up nicely. you should have no trouble finding the proper level of red light for your particular task without having too much light output.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 31, 2007)

Agreed. The RED beam can go to just a blip to pretty bright, bright enough to light a path in front of you.


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## Hitthespot (Dec 31, 2007)

this_is_nascar said:


> Agreed. The RED beam can go to just a blip to pretty bright, bright enough to light a path in front of you.


 
Wow, I'm headed out the door now to check it out. I have to quit getting on CPF. LOL

I got a repreive; there closed until after the 1/1/08...Whew...............

Bill


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## Freedom1955 (Dec 31, 2007)

this_is_nascar said:


> To be honest, the only way to get it off may be to cut it off with wire cutters.



That's what I did.Tailstands now!


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## BigHonu (Dec 31, 2007)

TIN,

Based on your vast experience with lights of all shapes and flavors along with this review, I ordered one up, and was not disappointed! Great light with excellent output and flexibility. Very good UI that is simple, effective, and most importantly easy to manipulate with one hand. 

Thanks and keep your great reviews coming. I've enjoyed them for years!


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## Burgess (Dec 31, 2007)

Hey, and *Thank-You* for the tip about Split-Ring Pliers ! ! ! :twothumbs


Boy, wish i woulda' had those things YEARS ago ! :hairpull: ___ 


:thanks:
_


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## adirondackdestroyer (Dec 31, 2007)

Burgess said:


> Hey, and *Thank-You* for the tip about Split-Ring Pliers ! ! ! :twothumbs
> 
> 
> Boy, wish i woulda' had those things YEARS ago ! :hairpull: ___
> ...


 
Never knew those existed. Pretty neat. I just snipped mine with the wire cutters. It worked no problem without any nicks or anything. Looks like the split ring was never there.


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## this_is_nascar (Dec 31, 2007)

Thanks. I appreciate it. I'm glad you like it. It always makes me a bit nervous when someone spends their hard earned cash, slightly in part due to my comments or opinions.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 1, 2008)

I received my replacement today and am very impressed! This is a top quality light with unreal features. Most likely the best camping/hiking/emergency light ever created. Weighs nearly nothing with a Energizer Lithium installed. Would be a great light for the lightweight backpacker.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 1, 2008)

*LRI Proton Pro Review*

The LRI Proton Pro is LRI's newest offering and uses a Cree as its main beam and a 3mm Red LED for low light situations. What sets this light apart from everything else on the market is the super low levels of light it has, and the ability to turn it on in the brightest (white level) and dimmest (red level). 

*BODY*
The light is made of aluminum and is Hard Annodized so it should be more scratch resistant than the average light. It uses a side clickie placed near the head of the light. The clickie is very responsive and feels really nice to opearte. The light is ribbed throughout most of the body and the head. This helps provide more grip than a smooth light. There is a bezel down pocket clip attached to the tailcap of the light. It can be removed by pulling swiftly away from the body by the end of the clip. There is a small metal piece included with the light which clicks into the spot to fill the gap left by the removed clip. 






*BEZEL/HEAD*
The head of the light features a single Cree LED in the center of the smooth reflector. There is a small slot cut out where the 3mm Red LED sits behind. It uses a hardened glass lens so it shouldn't scratch. The LED is perfectly centered in mine specific unit. There is also a glow in the dark o-ring in the head of the light which charges when the light is on in the brighter settings. 

*FUNCTION*
This light is one of the most complex I have ever seen, yet is very easy to figure out in minutes. Here is how it works:
To turn on main beam click and release, then hold to dim. Release at desired level of output. Continue holding after the dimmest setting to use the flashing/strobe/SOS modes. 
To turn on the Red beam click and hold, then hold to increase output. Release at desired level of output. Continue holding after the brightest setting to use the flashing/strobe/SOS modes. 

*OUTPUT*
The output of this light is truely unique. The main beam can either by very bright or very dim, while the red beam can either be a typical red LED brightness or the dimmest LED light I've ever seen! Reminds me of the light on the front of the original Nintendo Entertainment System. 
Here are the numbers going by my Lux meter and Lightbox:

Cree High = 1,030 Lux/334 Overall
Cree Low = 5.7 Lux/3 Overall

I also took some overall output readings of the Fenix L1DCE (smooth reflector) for comparison. Here they are:
Turbo = 302
Low = 43 

Going by my appoximate overall output formula of 100 = 20 lumens, then the overall output on high is around 66 lumens, and on low it's around .6 lumens. The red beam is so low that it goes undetected by my light meter on it's lowest setting! Here are some beamshots. The first pic is the High setting, and the second is on Low. The third pic is a Fenix L1DCE (left) on turbo compared to the Proton Pro on High, and the last pic is of the Fenix L1DCE (left) on low compared to the Proton Pro on low. The third pic is on 1/250 shutter speed, and the last one which was on 1/25 only because the Proton is so dim that on any setting faster than that it can't even be seen. 




















The beam has the expected Cree rings since it uses a Cree emitter and a smooth reflector. They don't personally bother me, but if you're a white wall hunter you might bother you. 

*RUNTIME*
I don't have the equipment to do a formal runtime test, but fellow CPFer "this_is_nascar" did some amazing ones in his review. Here is one comparing the runtime with both an Alkaline cell and a Energizer Lithium cell:

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r267/this_is_nascar/Flashlights/Pro-1.jpg

*SIZE *
As shown by the picture above you can tell this is an incredibly small light. It is hardly any larger around than the AA cell it uses. It's the smallest single AA sized light I've ever seen in both length and weight. According to my digital scale it weighs 1.4 ounces or 40 grams with an Energizer Lithium cell installed! 

*Battery*
It uses a single AA cell. It can use either Alkaline, NIMH, or Energizer Lithium The packaging suggest either NIMH or Energizer Lithium for better performance. It comes stock with a Energizer Lithium inside. 

*CONCLUSION*
Overall I feel like this is one of the better lights I've ever handled. For whatever reason I can't stop from playing with it. It's just so damn cool! It combines small size/weight along with incredible features better than any other light I've ever seen. When I get down to thinking about it I don't really know how it could be improved, other than by having a premium edition with a Q5 emitter (Photon are you listening :naughty. One gripe some people may have is that it uses a smooth reflector which causes rings in the beam. I personally don't mind this, since I actually like the added throw, but some may wish it used a textured reflector. 
If you are looking for a lightweight hiking light or a emergency light there has never been a better one! Ultra lightweight backpackers have finally found the perfect light! :twothumbs


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 2, 2008)

*Re: LRI Proton Pro Review*

Added new pictures comparing it to a Fenix L1DCE, as well as some output information on the Fenix as well.


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## Hitthespot (Jan 3, 2008)

Well I received mine today. It is a very nice Single cell flashlight. Small and bright and I really like the Red option for astronomy use. Mine has a great spot, pure white no holes in it. There is a dark ring around the spot but after reading nascar's review I knew it would be there. It's nice knowing what to expect before you get your light. Thanks for the detailed review. 

After getting this light (my first AA LED light ) I am looking forward to more and better AA lights in the future. 

Bill


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## MikeLip (Jan 3, 2008)

*Re: LRI Proton Pro Review*

Nice review. I just got one and it bumped the multi-emitter Photon Proton out of my pocket. Probably the best AA light out there in terms of sheer utility. Easy to use and select levels, nice beam, compact. Good job on this one, LRI!


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## Flying Turtle (Jan 3, 2008)

I especially like the usefulness of a lowered power white beam in the Proton because of its floodiness. Does the new Pro perform well enough in this regard? Also, is it really a 3mm red? I like the brightness of the 5mm red in the old Proton.

Geoff


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## MikeLip (Jan 3, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> I especially like the usefulness of a lowered power white beam in the Proton because of its floodiness. Does the new Pro perform well enough in this regard? Also, is it really a 3mm red? I like the brightness of the 5mm red in the old Proton.
> 
> Geoff



Yes to both - flood is good, although the beam is tighter than the original. The red LED is 3mm. It sort of has to be, since there isn'y much room in the reflector and I suspect a 5MM LED would take too big a chunk out of it.

The 3MM LED does a good job.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 3, 2008)

I agree. It's really hard to explain and I think I mentioned that a couple times because it really is hard to explain. Compared to the Proton, the Pro is a huge thrower. That being said, you don't lose the close-up/task light ability in the Pro. One has to really see it to understand.


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## Hitthespot (Jan 3, 2008)

Not that I will ever use it but does anyone know if this light will take the 14500 battery.

Bill


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## Rob187 (Jan 5, 2008)

Hitthespot said:


> Not that I will ever use it but does anyone know if this light will take the 14500 battery.
> 
> Bill


 
To my understanding, no. All the other kinds of AA size batteries are specifically mentioned on the packaging but not 14500s.


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## Yapo (Jan 5, 2008)

from looking on the photos of reflector n beamshots it looks like the red led doesnt affect the cree's beam at all...i'm impressed! i always wondered how they were going to have a red led in it with a cree...


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## Hitthespot (Jan 5, 2008)

Yapo said:


> from looking on the photos of reflector n beamshots it looks like the red led doesnt affect the cree's beam at all...i'm impressed! i always wondered how they were going to have a red led in it with a cree...


 
It does not. I specifically looked for the spot in the beam where the Red LED is. You cannot find one. It really is a good design. 

On a side note. I cannot seem to put this thing down. It is amazing for its little size.


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## Alan B (Jan 5, 2008)

Hitthespot said:


> It does not. I specifically looked for the spot in the beam where the Red LED is. You cannot find one. It really is a good design...


 
On mine, the effect of the red LED is small, but not quite zero. The hotspot is affected. It is not quite symmetrical, there is less corona on the side of the red LED.

The effect is quite minor.

The effect on the pattern of the red LED is more significant. It has dark sections and asymmetry in the opposite direction of the cree, as it is too close to the reflector there for proper reflection. Still minor.

A great compromise for dual-color in a VERY small light.

The clip keeps it from getting lost in the bottom of my pocket. I use mine daily.

-- Alan


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## Hitthespot (Jan 5, 2008)

Went to use mine today and when I pulled it out of its holster it was on and very hot. Both the white and red led was on at the same time. Both were very dim. I'm wondering if this is a low battery warning. Put a new battery in and the light is working as good as new. I've since noticed if I place the light in the holster head first it can be pushed hard enough against my body to turn it on. If I place it in its holster battery tube first I can't seem to accidently turn it on. I like placing the head in first because it makes the light tighter in the holster, but that does you no good if you pull it out and it's dead.

Does anyone now how/if you can place it back in demo mode where it shuts off automatically after around 10 - 15 seconds?

Bill


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 5, 2008)

Hitthespot said:


> Went to use mine today and when I pulled it out of its holster it was on and very hot. Both the white and red led was on at the same time. Both were very dim. I'm wondering if this is a low battery warning. Put a new battery in and the light is working as good as new. I've since noticed if I place the light in the holster head first it can be pushed hard enough against my body to turn it on. If I place it in its holster battery tube first I can't seem to accidently turn it on. I like placing the head in first because it makes the light tighter in the holster, but that does you no good if you pull it out and it's dead.
> 
> Does anyone now how/if you can place it back in demo mode where it shuts off automatically after around 10 - 15 seconds?
> 
> Bill



Yes, the RED and WHITE on at the same time tell you it's time to change the battery. You've been "hit" by the biggest negative of the Proton/Proton Pro and that's its ability to fire if something leans or pushes on the switch. There's a 3-minute auto-shutdown MOD that's available via the software. After 3-minutes of constant on, it shuts down. Search around in the Proton threads. I know it's there. In the meantime, I'll see if I can find it too. It's easier if I can cut and paste what's there rather than trying to explain it.


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## Hitthespot (Jan 5, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> Yes, the RED and WHITE on at the same time tell you it's time to change the battery. You've been "hit" by the biggest negative of the Proton/Proton Pro and that's its ability to fire if something leans or pushes on the switch. There's a 3-minute auto-shutdown MOD that's available via the software. After 3-minutes of constant on, it shuts down. Search around in the Proton threads. I know it's there. In the meantime, I'll see if I can find it too. It's easier if I can cut and paste what's there rather than trying to explain it.


 

Thanks, I rarely have mine on for more than three minutes at a time. I think that would be a good mod for me, especially if I can take it back to original if I need to.
I'll look but if you find it please post in this thread, and did I say thanks Nascar!


Bill


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 5, 2008)

Here it is. I copied it from the Photon Light website. It works on most of the LRI lights, like the Proton, Proton Pro and the Photon Freedoms.

_
1) Enter Morse Code mode, by pressing the swith off/on quickly (5-times approximately) until its in momemtary mode. 
2) Once in that mode, press and hold the button past the light going off until the LED's flash once. 
3) You're now in auto off, it seems that after about 3 minutes the intensity ramps down to off in about 10 seconds from full brightness. 

To turn off the auto off mode, enter morse code mode and then press and hold until the light goes off (release before the flash).
_


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## tygger (Jan 5, 2008)

I cut a tiny hole in the botton of the holster to help see if its accidentally turned on. Very noticeable in low light, during the day not so much.


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## Hitthespot (Jan 5, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> Here it is. I copied it from the Photon Light website. It works on most of the LRI lights, like the Proton, Proton Pro and the Photon Freedoms.
> 
> 
> _1) Enter Morse Code mode, by pressing the swith off/on quickly (5-times approximately) until its in momemtary mode. _
> ...


 
It Works! Fortunately I had a used Alk AA laying around and did not have to use my new Lith AA. I cannot believe all the things this little light does. WOW!

Thanks Again Nascar, you made my night.

Bill


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## chiphead (Jan 5, 2008)

Already on order!!!

chiphead


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## LED_Thrift (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks for the great review, runtime charts & comparison beamshots of this great light TIN. It's really good when a great light that runs on AAs comes along. I prefer lights with side clickies, rather than tailcap clickies.

I see that BrightGuy has these for $57 http://www.brightguy.com/products/Proton_Pro_LED_Flashlight.php


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## cooltony (Jan 6, 2008)

I use the Morse Code mode as sort of auto-off mode.

Don't have to watch the light, just clicks a few times and you know it's in the Morse Code mode and it's good to go.

When i need to operate the light just click and press till the light went off and then I'm back to the normal mode.

Works for me, and don't need your eye to count.


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## kilgor (Jan 8, 2008)

LED_Thrift said:


> Thanks for the great review, runtime charts & comparison beamshots of this great light TIN. It's really good when a great light that runs on AAs comes along. I prefer lights with side clickies, rather than tailcap clickies.
> 
> I see that BrightGuy has these for $57 http://www.brightguy.com/products/Proton_Pro_LED_Flashlight.php



But he wants *$10* to ship this tiny thing UPS ground. :thinking: :sick2:


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## kilgor (Jan 8, 2008)

Here it is for $54.85 with what appears to be free standard shipping. 

http://www.cfrlights.com/servlet/Cart?sfs=22f27a5&smode=update


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## 83Venture (Jan 8, 2008)

TIN. Thanks for all the information on the light. After reading I decided to wait on ordering the ReX and just ordered the Proton Pro.


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## Frenchyled (Jan 8, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> Here it is. I copied it from the Photon Light website. It works on most of the LRI lights, like the Proton, Proton Pro and the Photon Freedoms.
> 
> _
> 1) Enter Morse Code mode, by pressing the swith off/on quickly (5-times approximately) until its in momemtary mode.
> ...



Thank you TIN, I didn't know this TIP and it is very useful :thumbsup:
HAve you others undocumented TIPS to share 

I have one proton and one proton pro..I enjoy them


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## Solstice (Jan 8, 2008)

Well, the cfrlights link put me over the edge on this one . As I recall, that site could be a bit more expensive due to the free shipping policy, but this is a good price. 

I haven't bought a light in quite a while, but as one of the original followers of the Proton project (and advocate of the adoption of power LED's as opposed to 5mm), I figure if there's any light out there I should check out, it's this one.

I'll post first impressions when I get the light. From the feedback in this thread, I think I'll be pleased with the light, though I would like the ramp up to transition from the red LED to the low end of the Cree (so that you don't have to first go into high to get to low white). I do also have some concerns about the potential for auto-turn on; I wonder if anyone has found some sort of hard case that could prevent this for storage in a bag- a simple plastic tube type case, or what have you. I don't plan on carrying the light on my person (my LOD CE on my keychain is more than enough for me in day to day sitiuations living in an urban environment), but it seems like a nice option to have handy in a bag in case of emergency. I'd rather not have to change the light mode every time I wanted to use the light, but I'll have to see for my self if it's not too annoying to do so.

I haven't been bitten by the "light bug" bite in quite some time, so I'm looking forward to this little flashback .


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## Alan B (Jan 8, 2008)

If you put the light in signalling (morse code) mode before stowing it then the switch is only a momentary on, plus you can enable the 3 minute timeout. Beyond that carry a spare cell.

I EDC one of these in my pocket now for several weeks, and have not found it on yet. I don't have it in signalling mode either, so when it gets bumped it will consume my NiMH. So far, not.

-- Alan


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## nuggett (Jan 8, 2008)

found mine turned on in my pocket yesterday, after lots of work and moving around, so now it is on the 3 min time out.
Photonlight sent me a new light to replace my hesitant one with a return label. Thanks for the great service.


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## 83Venture (Jan 10, 2008)

Received mine last night. Did not hit the lottery on this one, but it is not as green as my FireFly II. After reading all the threads on the Proton and everyones impressions I had a pretty realistic expectation for it. 

Very nice. Surprising throw for such a small light. The beam profile and tint is not noticable outside. Is there any info on runtime with NiMh? TINs graphs are on Alk & E2s. Thanks for everyones input.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 10, 2008)

83Venture said:


> Received mine last night. Did not hit the lottery on this one, but it is not as green as my FireFly II. After reading all the threads on the Proton and everyones impressions I had a pretty realistic expectation for it.
> 
> Very nice. Surprising throw for such a small light. The beam profile and tint is not noticable outside. Is there any info on runtime with NiMh? TINs graphs are on Alk & E2s. Thanks for everyones input.



A week or so ago, I found my charger and Sanyo 2500 NiMH cells. If time permits, I'll do a runtime with one of those cells over the next couple of days.


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## paulr (Jan 10, 2008)

Anyone taken one of these apart yet and gotten a sense of the modding difficulty, either for replacing the led or other types of mods?


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 10, 2008)

paulr said:


> Anyone taken one of these apart yet and gotten a sense of the modding difficulty, either for replacing the led or other types of mods?



Not I. I'm assuming the bezel is somehow screwed-on to access the guts and switch, but for the life of me, I can find the seperation point of the two pieces.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 10, 2008)

Edit #6 has been applied to Post #1. It's another runtime using a Sanyo 2500 NiMH cell.


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## BentHeadTX (Jan 10, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> It's another runtime using a Sanyo 2500 NiMH cell.



TIN,
Thanks for the runtime with the 2500 NiMH cell. I am very aware of your dislike (hatred?) for rechargables and using the IMHO worst of the breed (2500mAH self-discharge and voltage sag king) I can understand why. 
The initial drop of the NiMH is caused by two very different things, one because of the chemistry and the other...the electronics in the flashlight. 
NiMH can hold a fairly high voltage of 1.45V when fully charged. They tank to 1.2 to 1.3V after a few minutes and stabilize for a long time. That is the "burn off" of the higher initial voltage. If the regulation was perfect, it would be a straight line. One of the best I have seen is the L2D lights...think ruler flat.
Maybe we should send you the new defacto standard NiMH cell...the Sanyo Eneloop 2000mAH low self-discharge version. ALL of my Powerex 2700 AA and 1000mAH AAA cells are phasing out, those things can't handle high discharge rates that my L2D RB100 and L0D Q4 demand. My L0D Q4 has not been charged in over a month and still rocks with serious output. 
Get the 4 or 8-pack of Eneloops, cycle them once and leave them in the storage case that is part of the packaging. Need another one? Forget charging the cell and just load an go. Sure, lithiums will beat the NiMH Eneloop but so what? Lithiums work well for me as storage lights but it is Eneloops for EDC use.


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## nekomane (Jan 10, 2008)

paulr said:


> Anyone taken one of these apart yet and gotten a sense of the modding difficulty, either for replacing the led or other types of mods?











You need to tap the circuitry out from the other end using a stick and small hammer.
Hold it up to the light and you will see that the 'pill' is transparent, and there is a ridge around the body tube. 
Place the stick between the ridge and positive contact spring and tap lightly.

Would 3V fry the circuit?


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## paulr (Jan 10, 2008)

Nekomane, thanks, that looks very moddable. Also thank to Ray for the nimh runtime test. I'm astonished at how much difference there is from the lithium. That is quite unlike comparable graphs I've seen. I'm tempted to offer to donate a couple of Eneloops to you if you're willing to run another test using them.


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## AFAustin (Jan 11, 2008)

Received mine today. Very nice indeed. I especially like the long sturdy clip---attached to your front jeans pocket, it allows you to carry the light lower on your leg (and more comfortably/less in the way) than by carrying it in the coin pocket, as most other pocket lights require.

The tint on mine is quite noticeably warm---is this true with others' Pro(s), or did I just end up on the warm side of the lottery?


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 11, 2008)

I'd be willing to do another test if someone sent me an Eneloop cell. If possible, charge it before you send it. Shoot me a PM for my address. Thanks for those pictures. It looks pretty straight forward. Did you have to heat the light to break the seal or just brute force? As far as the tint, it's hit and miss as with all Cree based lights that I've seen.


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## nekomane (Jan 11, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> *snip* Did you have to heat the light to break the seal or just brute force?*snip*


The bezel and head can be twisted apart easily with the help of rubber bands. 
No Loctite or glue was found on my light, it's just difficult to grip when you don't know 
where it comes apart.

Only light tapping was necessary to get the pill out. As mentioned, there is a ridge 
inside the body...


 
so you want to avoid that area, as well as the positive contact.
I will stress that _no force was necessary_. You just need to know where to tap.

The ground line is connected to the body so you'll have to desolder or cut it off.




Oh and t_i_n, thank you for the review, I ordered mine after reading it.
A single LED and UI like the Photon Freedom Max would have done for me, but otherwise 
it is a very useful light.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 11, 2008)

I'm really glad you posted the pictures. It got me thinking of the possibilities to grind the switch down a bit to have it more recessed under the rubber boot, making is less likely to pressed accidently.


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## nekomane (Jan 11, 2008)

Not sure how much you can take off the switch..
Removing a bit from the inside of the boot might be easier to make the switch less sensitive.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 11, 2008)

Yes, I like that idea even better. I didn't realize the boot had that little tab on it until seeing that picture.


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## 83Venture (Jan 11, 2008)

Thanks TIN for the NiMH test. Like BentHeadTX I like Eneloops and have changed all my AA/AAA batteries to them. Since they are approx 2000mAH I will guesstimate around 40-45 min for them based on 55 min with your 2500mAH cells until more definite tests are done and reported.


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## LED_Thrift (Jan 11, 2008)

@t_i_n 
I sent you a PM regarding sending you an eneloop or two.


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## regulator (Jan 11, 2008)

Thanks Nekomane for the detailed pictures. It is nice to know that the light can be opened up for modification if need be. This seems like a really nice light but I am worried that I might get one with a tint that I would not like and would ruin the whole experience.

It is nice to know that if someone wanted, they could upgrade the light to have exactly the tint the want (me - I would like a WC tint Q5). I have some of those cheap rubber strap wrenches from Menards that would probably be perfect for opening the light up. Thanks again to all for your reviews and information.


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## nekomane (Jan 11, 2008)

I just found a tiny plastic ring in the rug.



Dunno where it came from but it fits the boot perfectly.



Please watch out for it when taking the light apart 
(and let me know where it came from!).


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 11, 2008)

LED_Thrift said:


> @t_i_n
> I sent you a PM regarding sending you an eneloop or two.



PM replied. Thanks for the offer. I left you details in my message.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 11, 2008)

Can you tell me the process/order in which you dissassembled the light? For example, it probably went something like this.

-- remove the bezel cap.
-- drop the reflector out.
-- use strap wenches or rubber bands, unscrew the head from the tube.

During the the 3rd step, do you need to be careful while unscrewing, so you don't twist any wires or connections off?


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## nekomane (Jan 11, 2008)

Yes, you got the process right, but you can leave the reflector/lens/bezel ring in place. 
From looking at the pictures in your first post (after Edit #5), you've done this part already.

To remove the head from the tube..
Check where the body comes apart from the pic in post #159.
Twist CCW while securing each end with rubber bands. A strap wrench would not be necessary,
rather make it more cumbersome to secure such a small light. 
There are no wires etc to break when twisting, though I recommend proceeding slowly.

Just take care when removing the pill. The ground line is soldered to the innards of 
the body and would be a pain to reattach.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 11, 2008)

Thanks. I appreciate it.


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## LED_Thrift (Jan 12, 2008)

I'll send the Eneloops out on Sat. or on Monday. Thanks for doing the runtime tests for everyone.


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## paulr (Jan 12, 2008)

LED_Thrift said:


> @t_i_n
> I sent you a PM regarding sending you an eneloop or two.



Oh cool, is this taken care of? If not, I can still send a couple. I just ordered four 4-packs from thomas-distributing by the way ($7.60/pack after discount).


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 12, 2008)

paulr said:


> Oh cool, is this taken care of? If not, I can still send a couple. I just ordered four 4-packs from thomas-distributing by the way ($7.60/pack after discount).



Thanks. Yep, we're good to go. I'll let everyone know once I get them.


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## Burgess (Jan 13, 2008)

I'll bet you are gonna' LOVE these Sanyo Eneloops.

:twothumbs
_


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## Gaffle (Jan 14, 2008)

Has anyone actually seen or done a runtime test on low?


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 14, 2008)

Edit #7 has been added to Post #1.

_
Edit #7: While I'm waiting on the donor Sanyo Eneloop cell to arrive (thank you Paul <LED_Thrift>), I've decided to perform a wall-clock runtime test of the Pro on its lowest WHITE LED setting. This test is using a Duracell 1xAA alkaline cell. The Pro produces very useful light on it lowest setting, so I'm curious as to how long it will run. I took a baseline measurement on the light-meter, so I can get a percentage of light output drop as the test progresses.
_


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## kilgor (Jan 14, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> Edit #7 has been added to Post #1.
> 
> _
> Edit #7: While I'm waiting on the donor Sanyo Eneloop cell to arrive (thank you Paul <LED_Thrift>), I've decided to perform a wall-clock runtime test of the Pro on its lowest WHITE LED setting. This test is using a Duracell 1xAA alkaline cell. The Pro produces very useful light on it lowest setting, so I'm curious as to how long it will run. I took a baseline measurement on the light-meter, so I can get a percentage of light output drop as the test progresses.
> _



That's the data I want to see! You are truly an asset to CPF. Thank you!


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 15, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> Edit #7 has been added to Post #1.
> 
> _
> Edit #7: While I'm waiting on the donor Sanyo Eneloop cell to arrive (thank you Paul <LED_Thrift>), I've decided to perform a wall-clock runtime test of the Pro on its lowest WHITE LED setting. This test is using a Duracell 1xAA alkaline cell. The Pro produces very useful light on it lowest setting, so I'm curious as to how long it will run. I took a baseline measurement on the light-meter, so I can get a percentage of light output drop as the test progresses.
> _



25-hours later and the Pro is still running stong, with no loss of brightness at it's lowest level (white).


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## LED_Thrift (Jan 15, 2008)

Batteries were sent out today. I could not find my Eneloop charger [those kids!] so I sent two Ray-o-vac Hybrids 2100mAh. In most runtime/output tests I've seen here, they are pretty close to the Eneloops.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 16, 2008)

Thanks. I'll let you know when they arrive.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 16, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> 25-hours later and the Pro is still running stong, with no loss of brightness at it's lowest level (white).



It's been just about 48-hours since the test started. As of this writing, still running strong, with no recordable lessening of brightness.


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## paulr (Jan 16, 2008)

Per PM's, I'll send some eneloops within the next day or so. The low level test will probably still be running when they reach you . If you're up for doing two tests with the eneloops, I'd be interested in sending two new cells, one freshly charged on my BC900, and the other untouched (i.e. still "pre-charged" as received in the original package). The idea is to find out how well this pre-charging holds up since the cells are about a year old right now.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 17, 2008)

paulr said:


> Per PM's, I'll send some eneloops within the next day or so. The low level test will probably still be running when they reach you . If you're up for doing two tests with the eneloops, I'd be interested in sending two new cells, one freshly charged on my BC900, and the other untouched (i.e. still "pre-charged" as received in the original package). The idea is to find out how well this pre-charging holds up since the cells are about a year old right now.



That's fine. Just label them so I know which is which.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 17, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> It's been just about 48-hours since the test started. As of this writing, still running strong, with no recordable lessening of brightness.



At the 72-hour mark, the meter shows about a 10% drop in output, but to the eye, it is not noticable.


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## Gene (Jan 18, 2008)

Hey Ray, does the Pro have the glow-in-the-dark feature like the older Proton had?


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 18, 2008)

Yes. The o-ring shaped plastic spacer that goes between the lens and the reflector is GITD by nature.


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## Gene (Jan 18, 2008)

Thanks Ray. That's a neat feature.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 18, 2008)

You can see it pretty well on the 5th picture of Post #1.


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## carl (Jan 18, 2008)

I have a few questions about the switch:

1) Most non-clicky non-mechanical electronic switches eventually have problems with age - they go onto the wrong mode, they flicker, lose low or hi mode, etc.. Is this the case here?

2) Most electronic switches drain the battery even while off. Is this so with the Pro?

Also, the hole for the red led seems to have a bit of a rough finish - as if drilled out rather than originally molded into the reflector. Also, the red led appears a little too far behind the hole so not all the light emitted from the led gets out. Is this so?

thanks


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 18, 2008)

carl said:


> I have a few questions about the switch:
> 
> 1) Most non-clicky non-mechanical electronic switches eventually have problems with age - they go onto the wrong mode, they flicker, lose low or hi mode, etc.. Is this the case here?
> 
> ...



As far as the swithes, it's the same used on the 1st generation Proton. I have not heard any reports of issues, however they haven't been our for more than a couple years. As far as battery drain, I thought I read somewhere that the Pro does not have the capability of being put back into Demo mode like the 1st gen Proton. I think this has something to do with the way the connection is made or something like that. I honestly don't know the answer.

The RED LED works fine. Although it appears too deep, it really is not. I like the fact that even with it's placement, it does not affect the beam of the white LED.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 19, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> At the 72-hour mark, the meter shows about a 10% drop in output, but to the eye, it is not noticable.



Well, we're into the 5th day of this test. Approximately, 120-hours have passed in total. No additional metered dimming has occurred since my report at the 72-hour mark. I think this test is going to outlast my patience. I have other cells I need to test in this unit, but it just won't die. I'll let it run overnight then probably I'll terminate the test.


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## kilgor (Jan 19, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> Well, we're into the 5th day of this test. Approximately, 120-hours have passed in total. No additional metered dimming has occurred since my report at the 72-hour mark. I think this test is going to outlast my patience. I have other cells I need to test in this unit, but it just won't die. I'll let it run overnight then probably I'll terminate the test.



Aww... please don't terminate the test!  Otherwise the 5 days of testing was in vain. I think a lot of people that buy this light are buying it because of its long lasting low level. I know that was the key selling point for me.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 19, 2008)

kilgor said:


> Aww... please don't terminate the test!  Otherwise the 5 days of testing was in vain. I think a lot of people that buy this light are buying it because of its long lasting low level. I know that was the key selling point for me.



Yea, I was just thinking the same thing. I'm going to let the test continue. The only issue I see is that I leave for a business trip on Monday to Denver and won't be getting back until mid-week. If the light dies or drops considerably during that time, I won't see it unitl I get back and have no way of knowing when it dropped.


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## kilgor (Jan 19, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> Yea, I was just thinking the same thing. I'm going to let the test continue. The only issue I see is that I leave for a business trip on Monday to Denver and won't be getting back until mid-week. If the light dies or drops considerably during that time, I won't see it unitl I get back and have no way of knowing when it dropped.





I thought you had a data logging lightmeter?


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 19, 2008)

I do, but for this test even a new battery in the meter would have died before the test completed. So for this test, I'm taking random samples to measure the output. I guess what I could do, is before I go away, put a new cell in the meter and let it run. If the light craps out while I'm away, I should be able to tell at what point it died. Even if the meter battery dies, the data logged file will close properly.


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## paulr (Jan 19, 2008)

Might be informative in a somewhat different way to stop the test before you leave on your trip, then start it again afterwards, thereby giving the battery some rest.


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## carl (Jan 19, 2008)

TIN,
thanks for your answers - pushes me closer to getting one....


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## AFAustin (Jan 20, 2008)

I have been enjoying my Pro, which I bought from longtime CPFer PJD (who is a pleasure to deal with, BTW). PJD gave it the WriteRight treatment on the lens to smooth out the beam, and the result is a very pleasing beam, though definitely on the warm side. I've quit fretting over the tint, though, and appreciate the advantages a more incan-like tint can have, esp. outdoors.

Since I had a bunch of paperwork to keep me at my desk this weekend, I decided to do a couple of little 1xAA shoot-outs. The first included the *Proton Pro*, a *Peak Pacific P4 SSC (UP), *a *NiteCore DI*, and a *Rexlight* (orig. version). Each was loaded with an AA eneloop, fully charged.

In the *first test*, I wanted to see how the other lights would compare to the Pacific, with its reputation for excellent runtime. I have no light meter, so I did my best to set the Pro and the DI to an overall output level approximating the Pacific's, using the venerable ceiling-bounce-in-a-dark-closet method. The Rex has preset levels, but its medium was close enough to the Pacific to include it.

My very unscientific results were nonetheless interesting. At 3h 40m, the Rex was so dim as to drop out of the game. All 3 other lights were going strong and still roughly equal in output. At 4h, the Pacific began to drop below the other 2, and at 4h 45m, it was substantially below the other 2. At 5h 10m, the DI was brightest, then the Pro, then the Pacific, with a noticeable gap between each. At 5h 20m, the DI was still going strong, the Pacific was dim, and the Pro was virtually off. I ran out of time myself at that point, and so ended the test without seeing how long the DI would hold up.

I was surprised at how well the Pro, and even more so the DI, had done against the Pacific---beating it at its own runtime game (at least for the first 5 hrs. in the case of the Pro).


The *second test* I did was a little one-on-one between the Pro and the DI. This time I fixed the DI's level to match as closely as I could (same eyeball/ceiling bounce method) the Pro on max. The DI's max is higher than the Pro's, so this meant taking it down a few ticks for a roughly even match. Same ammo---freshly charged eneloops. 

Once again, I am very impressed with both these lights. They both maintained their brightness well, and stayed virtually even in output with each other for 1h 15m. The Pro then began dimming rapidly, and the red light low cell warning came on at 1h 20m. The DI kept on going, maintaining strong output till 1h 45m, when it began dimming till it virtually shut down at around 2h. 

The Pro does get noticeably warmer than the DI, which I would expect given the latter's greater mass, esp. around the head. Even so, it never got hot, just noticeably warm, and that was only when running at max and not being held in the hand.

Based on t_i_n's excellent charts, and considering the Pro's approx. 1h runtime on a Sanyo 2500 NiMH cell, I was expecting 50m or so on the 2000 mAh eneloop. 1h 15m of strong output on max is a very nice surprise---so much so that I am going to repeat the test shortly with a different eneloop cell, and I'll update this post with the results. Needless to say, the DI's performance was also a very pleasant surprise, esp. since its published numbers, IIRC, are significantly better on a 14500 than on a NiMH cell.

This excellent runtime performance reinforces my already good opinion of the Proton Pro. I understand what Ray is saying about the useful beam, and part of that, for me at least, is the very wide spill pattern. At the same time that the hotspot is projecting down the way, I can see pretty well everything going on around my feet, which is a very handy attribute. Its slim body and great bezel down clip make it a very unobtrusive light that's easy to keep on you without it getting in the way. 

Now I'm just waiting for t_i_n's much more professional eneloop tests, and hoping they confirm my very unscientific results. 


*Update:* I was actually running the second Pro-on-max eneloop runtime test as I took my time writing the original post, and so already have the results. Almost identical to the original numbers---right at 1h 15m of strong output, then rapid dimming and red light warning about 5m later. Very nice indeed. Go take a rest, Pro---you've earned it. :sleepy:


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 20, 2008)

Great post. I'm pleased that more and more folks are enjoying these lights. My Eneloop testing will have to wait until later in the week. I'll be traveling to Denver this week. I'll be taking my Photon Freedom DS, Proton Pro, SureFire Titan and Arc-AAA. I should be set for whatever I'm faced with.


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## paulr (Jan 20, 2008)

AFAustin, that's interesting that the DI appears over 30% more efficient than the PP. Maybe it's because the DI is using a better led, in which case there's some hope of the PP catching up or being modded to match the DI.

I've been wondering how long it takes for the Pacific Ultra to drop out of regulation on an alkaline. Have you ever measured?


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## AFAustin (Jan 20, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> Great post. I'm pleased that more and more folks are enjoying these lights. My Eneloop testing will have to wait until later in the week. I'll be traveling to Denver this week. I'll be taking my Photon Freedom DS, Proton Pro, SureFire Titan and Arc-AAA. I should be set for whatever I'm faced with.



Thanks, Ray. Looking forward to your eneloop tests after you return from your well-lit trip to Denver.


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## AFAustin (Jan 20, 2008)

paulr said:


> AFAustin, that's interesting that the DI appears over 30% more efficient than the PP. Maybe it's because the DI is using a better led, in which case there's some hope of the PP catching up or being modded to match the DI.
> 
> I've been wondering how long it takes for the Pacific Ultra to drop out of regulation on an alkaline. Have you ever measured?



paulr,

No, haven't ever done any tests of my Pacific on an alkie. Looks like my P4 SSC UP model on a NiMH cell gets about 1/2 the runtime in regulation as Robyn's charts showed for the original lux HP model: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/109192

So, would it be a fair extrapolation to figure roughly 1/2 for an alkaline cell as well, or around 2 1/2 hrs. in regulation?


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## regulator (Jan 20, 2008)

Thanks AFAustin,

I like these kind of test to compare lights at a output level that will probably suffice for most tasks and not at full output. I have the DI very pleased with its efficiency at lower outputs. The Pro looks pretty decent too.

I posted a similar test with the Nightcore DI against a Pacific UP SSC. I used a cheap alkaline battery and was very suprised that the DI held regulation much better than the Pacific. You can find the interesting results if you look in the Peak forum for results.

Paulr - I was very disappointed in the regulation of the Pacific UP on an alkaline. From memory it started dropping in output after about an hour and then had a long tail.


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## paulr (Jan 20, 2008)

AFAustin said:


> So, would it be a fair extrapolation to figure roughly 1/2 for an alkaline cell as well, or around 2 1/2 hrs. in regulation?


 No, I don't think one can extrapolate like that (see regulator's post). The issue is that alkalines crap out very quickly at high current loads, and the Pacific circuit is designed to drop to a 50% "battery saver" level as soon as regulation fails. It sounds to me at this point like the "high" power Pacific is the best bet for omnivorous AA usage and good output. Thanks to both of you (AFAustin and Regulator) for your responses, which helped figure this out. I wonder if someone can do a flux test with the PPro's led sometime.


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## jeffb (Jan 20, 2008)

I too have valued TIN's posts since joining CPF and have had some very satisfactory dealings with him as well.:wave: Have been following this thread and review....Thanks to all :candle:

Just ordered from "Bright Guy", as Cleveland is 1 day normal UPS shipping.

I plan to use Eneloops and I have some "fastcar" diffuser matl. that might work? 

jeffb


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## cave dave (Jan 21, 2008)

I plan on throwing in some Fastcar 5-layer (med) diffuser into the proton myself. I have some in a Fenix L2D and it eliminates the cree ring. Let me know how it works for you.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 21, 2008)

For you guys looking to diffuse your Pro's, why not just get the generation-1 Proton?


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## cabindriver (Jan 21, 2008)

I like the brightness of the Pro compared to my Proton. I just can't stand the rings. It's a moot point however, since my thirteen year old son won't give it back! I'm more than happy with my ReX.


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## cave dave (Jan 21, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> For you guys looking to diffuse your Pro's, why not just get the generation-1 Proton?



Tint mostly, but the 5mm LEDs aren't that smooth either, they tend to be ringy and splotchy. Plus I think the Pro is more efficient unless they have upgraded the emitter to DS in the proton v1. A diffused Cree isn't really comparable to a 5mm cluster. The diffused Cree is much much better.

PS TIN, when you go through airport security why don't you throw some some loose Lithium batteries in your carry on for us. We are all curious what the TSA will really do. :tinfoil:


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 21, 2008)

cave dave said:


> Tint mostly, but the 5mm LEDs aren't that smooth either, they tend to be ringy and splotchy. Plus I think the Pro is more efficient unless they have upgraded the emitter to DS in the proton v1. A diffused Cree isn't really comparable to a 5mm cluster. The diffused Cree is much much better.
> 
> PS TIN, when you go through airport security why don't you throw some some loose Lithium batteries in your carry on for us. We are all curious what the TSA will really do. :tinfoil:



Funny you say that. I already have the following loose batteries in the front compartment of my laptop case.

-- (2) Sanyo CR2 cells (for the Titan).
-- (2) Energizer AA cells (for the Proton Pro).
-- (2) Energizer AAA cells (for the Arc-AAA and Bose Headphones).

I'll be heading off to the airport (PHL) in an hour or so.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 21, 2008)

TIN,

Do you know if LRI is planning on upgrading the original Proton with Nichia DS LEDS? If they did that I would buy one in a second!


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## paulr (Jan 21, 2008)

I suspect the 6 led proton is being discontinued, since it's been seen on closeout. I wonder how moddable it is.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 23, 2008)

I agree. Since the Pro is what LRI really wanted from a couple years ago, I'd expect the gen-1 Proton to go away. I tried getting a couple more from Tad Gear, but I guess I wasn't successful. I placed an order, go the order number, but that was it. No email telling me it was sold out or shipped or anything. I tried calling them several times and their voicemail box is filled. I'll never attempt to order squat from them again.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 23, 2008)

OK, so I just got back an hour or so ago. I've got some good new and some bad news. The bad news is the data logger dropped power and must have corrupted the file. The good news is that the Pro is still producing light. The output is down approximately 45%-50% from the original output at the start of the test. The hotspot of the Pro is still producing very usable light. Not so much for the side-spill portion of the beam.

I have so much work that I need to catch up on that has gotten behind due to my trip, I"m just going to leave the Pro running a bit longer. When I do end the test in the next day or so, I want to measure the battery voltage right away. In addition, as soon as I power down the Pro, I want to see if it will re-fire. I have the Hybrid and Eneloop tests that I still have to perform, however they may have to wait until the weekend.


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## kilgor (Jan 23, 2008)

So by my calculations that's 9 days (216 hours) on a plainjane Duracell alkaline. It looks like the Proton Pro may make the 250 hour claim that LRI makes. It should especially make it on an E2 lithium.

Thank you TINC! :twothumbs


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## Freedom1955 (Jan 23, 2008)

kilgor said:


> So by my calculations that's 9 days (216 hours) on a plainjane Duracell alkaline. It looks like the Proton Pro may make the 250 hour claim that LRI makes. It should especially make it on an E2 lithium.
> 
> Thank you TINC! :twothumbs



Thats a damn long time!:twothumbs


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 23, 2008)

Maybe one of you techie types would no the answer, but if we're getting this amount of runtime on low-mode with WHITE, what would we expect on RED on its brightest setting? Any educated guesses?


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## LED_Thrift (Jan 23, 2008)

CPF member hayhay just posted that this light is for sale Here: http://www.cfrlights.com/servlet/the...l?sfs=f519667d for $50 until March.


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## kilgor (Jan 23, 2008)

LED_Thrift said:


> CPF member hayhay just posted that this light is for sale Here: http://www.cfrlights.com/servlet/the...l?sfs=f519667d for $50 until March.



CFRlights now has them in stock. Mine shipped today after being backordered for 2 weeks.

$49.95 is the SHIPPED price. Nowhere else can beat that right now.


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## Freedom1955 (Jan 24, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> Maybe one of you techie types would no the answer, but if we're getting this amount of runtime on low-mode with WHITE, what would we expect on RED on its brightest setting? Any educated guesses?



I'm not a techie but I was told by the owner that the red will run a lot longer than the white. I can't remember exactly what he told me but the red will run multiple times the main white beam willoo:. At least 2X but I think he said it was longer than that.


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## bondr006 (Jan 24, 2008)

Well, after reading TIN's review, and all the rest of the posts, I ordered one from BatteryJunction today. I am really excited and anxious to get it. It looks and sounds like a fantastic light. Thanks TIN, and everyone else who contributed. I will also add my feedback once i get the light.


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## Gene (Jan 24, 2008)

I just bought a Pro from the aftermarket and I really like this thing! It's a real thrower and the UI is easy to learn. All of Ray's and everyone elses accolades are right on. Had a question though for you Pro "pros".

What's the easiest way to remove the clip "spacer"? I tried with my hands using the clip and couldn't budge it. Looks like it may be a job for a vise.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 24, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> Funny you say that. I already have the following loose batteries in the front compartment of my laptop case.
> 
> -- (2) Sanyo CR2 cells (for the Titan).
> -- (2) Energizer AA cells (for the Proton Pro).
> ...



Well, no problems with security at either Philadelphia or Denver airports. I had these batteries loose, in a compartment of my carry-on laptop bag.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 24, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> Edit #7 has been added to Post #1.
> 
> _
> Edit #7: While I'm waiting on the donor Sanyo Eneloop cell to arrive (thank you Paul <LED_Thrift>), I've decided to perform a wall-clock runtime test of the Pro on its lowest WHITE LED setting. This test is using a Duracell 1xAA alkaline cell. The Pro produces very useful light on it lowest setting, so I'm curious as to how long it will run. I took a baseline measurement on the light-meter, so I can get a percentage of light output drop as the test progresses.
> _



This is an update to Edit #7, which will be added to post #1, as Edit #8. The test that started on 01/14 has ended today, on 01/24. I think this was a very useful test of the Pro on its lowest White LED setting, using a standard Duracell alkaline battery. Tonight, when I came home, the light was off. I know it was still on this morning at 06:00, so it must have died sometime after that. As of this morning, the light was down to about 50% brightness of the original output at the start of the test. That being said, we can say that the Pro, on a standard Duracell, will run approximately 230-hours constantly, producing very useful light. I really want to repeat this test using the RED LED on its highest setting. That test will have to wait. Right now, the Pro is running a test with the Ray-O-Vac Hybrid battery that was sent to me by LED_Thrift. After that, a test with the Eneloop will be performed. Both of these tests are being done on the highest setting, to compare with the Sanyo 2500 niMH test that I had already performed.


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## Burgess (Jan 24, 2008)

Nice work, ThisIsNascar ! :thumbsup:


Folks, do you *realize* that's more than 9 solid DAYS ! ! !



GottaGetMeOneOfThese 

_


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 24, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> This is an update to Edit #7, which will be added to post #1, as Edit #8. The test that started on 01/14 has ended today, on 01/24. I think this was a very useful test of the Pro on its lowest White LED setting, using a standard Duracell alkaline battery. Tonight, when I came home, the light was off. I know it was still on this morning at 06:00, so it must have died sometime after that. As of this morning, the light was down to about 50% brightness of the original output at the start of the test. That being said, we can say that the Pro, on a standard Duracell, will run approximately 230-hours constantly, producing very useful light. I really want to repeat this test using the RED LED on its highest setting. That test will have to wait. Right now, the Pro is running a test with the Ray-O-Vac Hybrid battery that was sent to me by LED_Thrift. After that, a test with the Eneloop will be performed. Both of these tests are being done on the highest setting, to compare with the Sanyo 2500 niMH test that I had already performed.



I forgot to add............ after noticing the light was off when I got home, I metered the battery. It displayed .95 volts. When attempting to re-fire the Pro with the cell, it flashed on for a second or two tops, both a dim RED and dim WHITE.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 24, 2008)

Gene said:


> I just bought a Pro from the aftermarket and I really like this thing! It's a real thrower and the UI is easy to learn. All of Ray's and everyone elses accolades are right on. Had a question though for you Pro "pros".
> 
> What's the easiest way to remove the clip "spacer"? I tried with my hands using the clip and couldn't budge it. Looks like it may be a job for a vise.



I wish I could help. I've only taken my clip(s) off once and then put them back on. The clip is one of the best features of the Proton for me.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 24, 2008)

Edit #9 has been added to Post #1. It contains the runtime comparison of the niMH cells. So, how many are now going to run out and get ROV Hybrids?


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## kilgor (Jan 24, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> So, how many are now going to run out and get ROV Hybrids?





That is surprising considering they are 2000 mA versus 2100 mA! The Rayovac lasted 33% longer! I will probably stay with my eneloops, because that's what I have, but I don't understand why the Rayovacs were so much better. Perhaps they were built for higher drain applications?


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 24, 2008)

I think what I'll do, assuming the owner of the Hybrid doesn't mind, is put both the Hybrid and the Eneloop on the charger, let them charge and re-test.


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## bondr006 (Jan 24, 2008)

Well, I went to WalMart to pick up some Eneloops today, and they didn't have any. So, I looked for the ROV Hybrids, and something else caught my eye. Duracell now has a brand new pre-charged 2000mAh NiMH battery that claims to stay charged for a year. So I decided to try them out.


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## Sigman (Jan 24, 2008)

I don't know if it's been mentioned, but I hope they consider offering different color LEDs as well as the red (like the Micros). I specifically like _*GREEN*_ (though _*CYAN would ROCK*_!!)!!


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## 83Venture (Jan 25, 2008)

Thanks for all the work TIN. I'm curious about the difference between the Hybrid and the Eneloop performance also.


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## cave dave (Jan 25, 2008)

bondr006,

Your post has nothing to do with the topic of this thread, the Proton Pro. Perhaps you put it in the wrong thread?

TIN,
Did the Eneloop and Hybrids come straight from the package? Seems like all the Eneloops have a manufacture date of fall 2006. So out of the package capacity is around 1450mAH.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 25, 2008)

cave dave said:


> bondr006,
> 
> Your post has nothing to do with the topic of this thread, the Proton Pro. Perhaps you put it in the wrong thread?
> 
> ...



I can't speak for the Hybrids, since they were sent to me on loan for the testing. I believe they were charged before being sent. As far as the Eneloops, they came right from the package, with no prior charge.


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## AFAustin (Jan 25, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> I can't speak for the Hybrids, since they were sent to me on loan for the testing. I believe they were charged before being sent. As far as the Eneloops, they came right from the package, with no prior charge.



TIN,

Looking forward to your fully charged eneloop runtimes. I hope they confirm the 1hr. 15 min. I got.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 25, 2008)

Sigman said:


> I don't know if it's been mentioned, but I hope they consider offering different color LEDs as well as the red (like the Micros). I specifically like _*GREEN*_ (though _*CYAN would ROCK*_!!)!!



I would love a Proton Pro that had only the white Cree beam, and worked the same as it does right now. Click the switch turn the light on high, hold the switch it turns it on in low. That would be awesome!


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## bondr006 (Jan 25, 2008)

Jee Dave, thanks for pointing that out. I just totally missed that this thread was about the Proton Pro.  Seriously, if you notice in my first post(#225), I also am getting one of these lights. People have been talking about the different kinds of batteries(mostly Eneloops and ROV Hybrids) they are interested in using in this light, and I thought I'd throw these in to the mix since they are new, but similar to the other two mentioned above. I bought them, and intend to use them in my Proton Pro, and will be reporting on their performance in said light. So, yes, I did intentionally post about the new Duracell batteries here. But, thanks again for keeping me on my toes. 

BTW....You are welcome to call me Rob.



cave dave said:


> bondr006,
> 
> Your post has nothing to do with the topic of this thread, the Proton Pro. Perhaps you put it in the wrong thread?


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## ttran97 (Jan 25, 2008)

bondr006 said:


> BTW....You are welcome to call me *JAMES*.



I fixed it for you, Mr. Bond. :naughty:


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## bondr006 (Jan 25, 2008)

What the heck? You didn't leave your stamp on that one. :laughing:


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## ttran97 (Jan 25, 2008)

bondr006 said:


> What the heck? You didn't leave your stamp on that one. :laughing:



I didn't want to derail this thread _too _much. But since you asked for it...

bondr006, This_Is_Nascar, and this review:


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## RebelXTNC (Jan 25, 2008)

I received mine today, pretty quickly from the CFR Lights sale listed the other day. Seems like a very nice all-around light. The tint on mine is a tiny bit green, but not bad. My cree ring isn't too bad either. Throw and smoothness of the hotspot is quite good.
I'm interested in the red LED runtime test and I'm going right now to compare brightness with some of my other red lights and long-running white lights too.
Other than having to try about 10 times to activate the normal mode of the light after taking it out of the package, it's been a pleasing light and should work well for a job coming up soon.


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## lunardelite (Jan 26, 2008)

I also just received my Proton today and noticed that the tint is greener than all my other lights. Is this typical of the Protons? Is this what they consider "warm" tint? 
I'm considering exchanging it but if I'm just gonna get another green tint I'll just keep it.


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## AFAustin (Jan 26, 2008)

lunardelite said:


> I also just received my Proton today and noticed that the tint is greener than all my other lights. Is this typical of the Protons? Is this what they consider "warm" tint?
> I'm considering exchanging it but if I'm just gonna get another green tint I'll just keep it.



Mine is also what I would call "warm", actually more yellow than green. At first, I had reservations because in a white wall contest with my other lights, it was very apparent. I even e-mailed LRI, who graciously offered to exchange it per their top-notch warranty. But they did tell me that the majority of their Pro(s) had a slight "green" tint. Right about then, I decided to just settle down and enjoy it. Outdoors, the warmer tint really does give better color rendition.

My advice is to live with it for a week. If you are still unhappy with it after that, send it in for an exchange. And then post here about the turnaround time, difference in tint with the replacement, etc. That would be useful info. for all of us.


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## Widsith (Jan 26, 2008)

lunardelite said:


> I also just received my Proton today and noticed that the tint is greener than all my other lights. Is this typical of the Protons? Is this what they consider "warm" tint?
> I'm considering exchanging it but if I'm just gonna get another green tint I'll just keep it.


Mine looks white to me. But when I compare a beamshot next to my son's Rexlight REX2.0 or my daughter-in-law's Fenix P1D CE, my Proton Pro looks very, very slightly greenish. That's the only time it looks at all green to me.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 27, 2008)

Edit #10 has been added to Post #1. This was the re-test of the Hybrid and Eneloop after charging and resting for a couple hours. The performance of the Eneloop seems much better, but it does raise the question (in my mind anyway) of the claims of "not much loss of capacity while stored".


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## cave dave (Jan 27, 2008)

The eneloops are only charged to 85% capacity when they are placed in the package. Also your eneloops are probably ~ 1.5 old. I would say your straight out of the package eneloops are pretty impressive considering that.


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 27, 2008)

cave dave said:


> The eneloops are only charged to 85% capacity when they are placed in the package. Also your eneloops are probably ~ 1.5 old. I would say your straight out of the package eneloops are pretty impressive considering that.



OK, thanks. I didn't realize that. Good information to have.


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## lunardelite (Jan 27, 2008)

Thanks for letting me know about your Proton. I feel much better knowing that I probably don't have a defective one. But I do wish that LRI could make one that is whiter (if that is even possible). 

Overall I really do like this light. I had the 5 LED model and loved that as well but I see the Pro as a great improvement on an awesome design. To me it's like the Swiss Army knife of lights.




AFAustin said:


> Mine is also what I would call "warm", actually more yellow than green. At first, I had reservations because in a white wall contest with my other lights, it was very apparent. I even e-mailed LRI, who graciously offered to exchange it per their top-notch warranty. But they did tell me that the majority of their Pro(s) had a slight "green" tint. Right about then, I decided to just settle down and enjoy it. Outdoors, the warmer tint really does give better color rendition.
> 
> My advice is to live with it for a week. If you are still unhappy with it after that, send it in for an exchange. And then post here about the turnaround time, difference in tint with the replacement, etc. That would be useful info. for all of us.


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## kilgor (Jan 27, 2008)

Mine too came in yesterday, but I didn't get home to play with it until today.

Good user interface, except I wish the whit light started in low and ramped up. Seems very solidly built. The clip on mine seems pretty useless. It is backwards for clipping to a hat and doesn't clip strongly to my pocket when using it to carry bezel down in the pocket. The only purpose it serves is to stop he light from rolling on slanted surfaces, which it does an admirable job of. I will probably remove it.

I really dislike the beam quality. Mine has a huge dark ring around the hotspot. The DARK ring is probably twice the size of the hot spot. Anyone else have this?  Please tell me that yours aren't like this so that there is hope of not having this on a replacement.

This ring really cuts down on my ability to use it to read at night with the lowest setting because I will constantly have to move the light around because 2/3's of the page is covered by this dark ring. If they are all like that, I may try some scotch tape on the lens to even it out.


I rate it a 7 out of 10 as is, which is pretty good. 

If the beam didn't have a huge dark ring in it, I would give it a 9. For $50, I hope this is repairable. This REALLY bugs me and limits the utility of the light.

Make the white light come on low and ramp up and it's a 9.5. 

Make it as bright on high as my Nitecore DI and it's a solid 10.


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## cave dave (Jan 27, 2008)

kilgor said:


> I really dislike the beam quality. Mine has a huge dark ring around the hotspot. The DARK ring is probably twice the size of the hot spot. Anyone else have this?  Please tell me that yours aren't like this so that there is hope of not having this on a replacement.



That is the nature of a Cree in a smooth reflector. You can see it in the beamshot pics of the first post.

Writeright works better than scotch tape, as it can easily be removed. You can get some in BST Here. If that doesn't work PM me. Also if you can access the lens you could use a LDS lens from flashlightlens.com or a cut down HDS diffuser from lighthound.


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## lunardelite (Jan 27, 2008)

I would have to disagree on the useless of the pocket clip. It works perfectly for having the light ride high and stable in your front pocket like a knife. I found that having a small light dangle loosely in your pocket really cumbersome and awkward to get to when you have many EDC items. 
In conjunction with the red LED the pocket clip really distinguishes the Proton and makes it rise above all the AA lights out there. Now if they could only price it $20 less . . . 



kilgor said:


> Mine too came in yesterday, but I didn't get home to play with it until today.
> 
> Good user interface, except I wish the whit light started in low and ramped up. Seems very solidly built. The clip on mine seems pretty useless. It is backwards for clipping to a hat and doesn't clip strongly to my pocket when using it to carry bezel down in the pocket. The only purpose it serves is to stop he light from rolling on slanted surfaces, which it does an admirable job of. I will probably remove it.


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## matrixshaman (Jan 27, 2008)

Nice review TIN - and lotsa interest here. 256 posts but I'm still trying to find a picture here or somewhere that shows a closeup of the body on this light with good lighting on it. That is to clarify I haven't been able to find a picture here or on any dealer that shows it well - I'd like to see the finish on the light and close up. I know black is hard to photograph and maybe the machining cut on this light makes it even harder but someone's got to be able to make this light dazzle under the lights -- I want to see sex appeal!


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## nekomane (Jan 27, 2008)




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## matrixshaman (Jan 27, 2008)

Wow ! Thanks Nekomane - that's what I was looking for! Very nice photography - you could probably sell those to LRI - better than anything I found on their web site.


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## bondr006 (Jan 27, 2008)

Very nice photos. I will be getting mine tomorrow. I can't wait.


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## kilgor (Jan 27, 2008)




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## kilgor (Jan 27, 2008)

The bottom of the reflector is flat for about 1/16" to the led. I think this makes the dark ring. I have several crees and know they have a ring, but this one is HUGE and DARK. I am not a whitewall hunter, but this makes it unusable as a reading light. 

I tried several things to get rid of that horrible ring. Semitransparent scotch tape was too dark. The bottom picture I posted above shows Glad Press and Seal, which works pretty well. I also tried sandwich bags. I even debated just pulling the reflector, replacing the lens, and having an all flood light. I finally found something that works perfectly and greatly increased the value of this light for me. The plastic wrap from a kraft cheese single is the perfect level of opaqueness. I still have a hot spot that throws well, but that awful ring is gone. THANK YOU LORD.

This light now rates a 9 out of 10! :thumbsup:


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## Widsith (Jan 27, 2008)

kilgor said:


> I really dislike the beam quality. Mine has a huge dark ring around the hotspot. The DARK ring is probably twice the size of the hot spot. Anyone else have this?  Please tell me that yours aren't like this so that there is hope of not having this on a replacement.


Mine has the dark ring, but I wouldn't say it's anywhere near twice the size of the hot spot, at least not at close range. I'd guess maybe a third larger in diameter than the hotspot close up. At longer ranges it's quite a bit larger in proportion to the hotspot, but also a lot less dense, so that it blends pretty well with the rest of the flood spill.


> This ring really cuts down on my ability to use it to read at night with the lowest setting because I will constantly have to move the light around because 2/3's of the page is covered by this dark ring. If they are all like that, I may try some scotch tape on the lens to even it out.


For reading, I ramp it down to a little bit above the lowest setting, so that the flood area outside the dark ring is bright enough for reading. Then I aim it so that the hotspot is off the page, and I get a nice even illumination of the whole page just from the flood. It looks to me like the problem is not so much the dark ring as the contrast between the hotspot and everything else that makes it hard to read text without moving the hotspot. My eyes can't handle the transition between the hotspot and the dimmer areas, but when the hotspot is off the page, all the text is at approximately the same light level and is much easier to read.


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## kilgor (Jan 27, 2008)

Nice pictures Nikomane!!! :bow: You even cleaned yours off for pictures!


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## paulr (Jan 28, 2008)

Any light with a hotspot is suboptimal for reading. A Zebralight H50 is just about a perfect companion to the PPro, it sounds like. The H50 has a wide flood beam with no hotspot at all, and is a handsfree light, about the best light possible for reading.


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## kilgor (Jan 28, 2008)

It's NOT the hot spot. It is the HUGE DARK area surrounding the hotspot that is the problem. My Nitecore DI has a much brighter hotspot on high and low, yet is still just fine for reading on low.

The Proton Pro works great now, with the addition of some diffusing material. It still has decent throw and the dark spot is diminished by about 98%. I appreciate that it lasts 4.5 times as long as the Nitecore DI on low. I love the one handed light ramping and the red light is very useful for navigation in the house.

You can see it here in TINC's beamshot. It's still hard to see just how dark that ring is in the picture, but you can at least see the size of it.


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## kilgor (Jan 28, 2008)

These pictures aren't great, because I'm not a good photographer, but you can get the idea.

Proton Pro as it came from the factory.






Proton Pro after diffusing material added. MUCH BETTER!






Nitecore DI as it came from the factory for comparison.


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## matrixshaman (Jan 28, 2008)

So this light has a smooth reflector? I think one could drill a side hole in an OP reflector to replace it - does anyone know the size of the reflector and if something OP is available that is close? I've gotten to where I just don't like the Cree ringiness for most purposes and will sacrifice some throw for a better beam. The best combo I've seen for fixing it is the Olight T10 I've got that has both OP and smooth in one reflector. I don't like having to tape stuff over a head or deal with putting things on the head to get a decent beam.


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## Flying Turtle (Jan 28, 2008)

One thing I've noticed about my six month old Proton (old model) is that the ribbing on the switch has worn almost smooth. I suppose carrying it clipped in the pocket may speed this happening. Don't know if this could be a potential problem, but I doubt it.

Geoff


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## bondr006 (Jan 28, 2008)

Yeah...Well wait till I bring over my new Proton Pro today. You are going to forget all about your old Proton.  I simply love this thing.  More to follow later. :twothumbs



Flying Turtle said:


> One thing I've noticed about my six month old Proton (old model) is that the ribbing on the switch has worn almost smooth. I suppose carrying it clipped in the pocket may speed this happening. Don't know if this could be a potential problem, but I doubt it.
> 
> Geoff


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## bondr006 (Jan 28, 2008)

OK. I took care of the dark ring problem real quick. I took the reflector out and gave it a few sprays from my wifes aerosol hair spray. You can do as many layers as you want to get the right amount of diffusion. I did just enough to get rid of the dark ring. Now I have a beautiful, smooth beam, and if I want to go back to a smooth reflector, I just wash off the hair spray.


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## Solstice (Jan 28, 2008)

Hi folks. I finally got my PP from CFR on saturday after waiting since 1/8/08. I hadn't known they were out of stock and called Dan, and thankfully he was nice enough to give me the $49 price rather than the $54 one I had ordered at, since it took so long to ship and was further discounted after I ordered it. So not to derail the thread, but what could have started as a jeers turns into a cheers for CFRlights.

On to the light itself: The ins and outs of this light have been covered extensively by now, so I'll just put in some of my own general impressions. 

As far as the overall build quality/design, this light has a certain classiness to it that the more "tactical" chinese production lights flooding the market fail to posess. It's kind of like a "gentleman's" pocket light. That said, I do believe the microprocessor controlled side clicky switch, which in my opinion increases usability over rear-mounted reverse clickies, could also be more likely to fail in a state of emergency or under water. As I don't intend to do anything extreme with this light, I do appreciate this control method in terms of ergonomics. I do have to agree with kilgor regarding the clip- while elegant, it is too loose to hold the light in place and I find the light riding up and down the edge of my pocket. 

UI- I like it but don't love it. As reiterated here many times all ready, the abiltiy to turn on low white would be a boon. I also feel like red is dim/vision preserving enough all ready that I'd rather have the light either turn on high red, or maybe just start a little brighter since it just seems to take too long to ramp up to a useful level.

Beam quality- again this has been covered my many people, and frankly, it is kind of ugly when compared with some of my other Cree lights like the Rexlight 2.0. There are rings and artifacts and the tint is yellow by comparison on the infamous white wall. That said, it's not a dealbreaker for me and I only really notice the tint when viewing side by side. Despite the hotspot, I think this light could work for reading if necessary (though the Zebralight is better). I may try a diffuser just to make the light that much better.

As an aside, I've noticed the light makes a slight buzzing sound when the Cree is engaged or while the button is pressed. Not really annoying, but loud enough to be noteworthy.


It might sound like this mini-review is negative, but really its just that when a product is already well designed and refined, its just a few nitpicky things that can keep it from total greatness. Overall, I do really like this light and I think at the $50 pricepoint, its one of the most feature rich and value packed options out there right now. I think the LRI msrp of $70 is a bit too high for this light considering the fine offerings by the competition, but the Pro does do some things that no other company is offering and makes for a worthy EDC.


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## MikeLip (Jan 28, 2008)

<Arg - another hangup!>


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## MikeLip (Jan 28, 2008)

bondr006 said:


> OK. I took care of the dark ring problem real quick. I took the reflector out and gave it a few sprays from my wifes aerosol hair spray. You can do as many layers as you want to get the right amount of diffusion. I did just enough to get rid of the dark ring. Now I have a beautiful, smooth beam, and if I want to go back to a smooth reflector, I just wash off the hair spray.



You know what's weird? I used my Pro for an hour today looking around in the darfer corners of our store room for some old tech I wanted to resurrect. I never noticed any problems with the beam. I just now shined it on my office wall - big dark ring. So in practical use, it seems to make no difference whatsoever!


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## bondr006 (Jan 28, 2008)

You are absolutely right Mike. Real world use...it don't matter. And like you, it doesn't matter to me either. Apparently there are some that it does bother, and I just remembered what some had done to their MagLite reflectors to smooth them out. Kilgor came up with a solution that pleased him, and I thought I would add this for those interested. I gotta go take my son to his afternoon program, but I will be back with more about my love for this light this evening. L8TR all :thumbsup:



MikeLip said:


> You know what's weird? I used my Pro for an hour today looking around in the darfer corners of our store room for some old tech I wanted to resurrect. I never noticed any problems with the beam. I just now shined it on my office wall - big dark ring. So in practical use, it seems to make no difference whatsoever!


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## kilgor (Jan 28, 2008)

Solstice said:


> Hi folks. I finally got my PP from CFR on saturday after waiting since 1/8/08. I hadn't known they were out of stock and called Dan, and thankfully he was nice enough to give me the $49 price rather than the $54 one I had ordered at, since it took so long to ship and was further discounted after I ordered it. So not to derail the thread, but what could have started as a jeers turns into a cheers for CFRlights.
> 
> On to the light itself: The ins and outs of this light have been covered extensively by now, so I'll just put in some of my own general impressions.
> 
> ...



I think were are twins. I had the exact same interaction with Dan at CFRlights about reducing the price to the sale price and I agree with all of your comments to a t. 

The beam quality is pretty good for outside use. It has very good throw for its reflector size. Mine will see most of its duty inside and on low levels, hence my frustration with the dark ring. With the diffuser material it still has good throw (not as good), but the beam inside is SOOOOOOO much better. Besides, I carry a Nitecore DI too, so if I want a lot of throw outside it will do it.


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## bray (Jan 30, 2008)

well i finially gave in after reading this review a few times, recieved it yesterday and have been playing with it since,, really have been enjoying the u.i. and the styling with the switch on the side. i feel this light is well worth the price paid for it.


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## this_is_nascar (Feb 10, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> Edit #8: This is an update to Edit #7, which will be added to post #1, as Edit #8. The test that started on 01/14 has ended today, on 01/24. I think this was a very useful test of the Pro on its lowest White LED setting, using a standard Duracell alkaline battery. Tonight, when I came home, the light was off. I know it was still on this morning at 06:00, so it must have died sometime after that. As of this morning, the light was down to about 50% brightness of the original output at the start of the test. That being said, we can say that the Pro, on a standard Duracell, will run approximately 230-hours constantly, producing very useful light. I really want to repeat this test using the RED LED on its highest setting. That test will have to wait. Right now, the Pro is running a test with the Ray-O-Vac Hybrid battery that was sent to me by LED_Thrift. After that, a test with the Eneloop will be performed. Both of these tests are being done on the highest setting, to compare with the Sanyo 2500 niMH test that I had already performed.
> 
> I forgot to add............ after noticing the light was off when I got home, I metered the battery. It displayed .95 volts. When attempting to re-fire the Pro with the cell, it flashed on for a second or two tops, both a dim RED and dim WHITE.



As you recall, this update showed that the Proton Pro will run on the lowest WHITE setting for approximately 230-hours. Throughout the course of this time, the beam is very useful, meaning you can actually use it to see things. This test got me to thinking about the burn-time of the RED led on its very lowest setting. In my opinion, the lowest RED setting is not useful for much at all, other than possibly checking your watch in a totally dark room. For navigation or real-life usefullnes, I just don't think it's bright enough. That being said, I do currently use the lowest RED setting as a location setting, meaning I leave it on that setting on the Pro that I keep by bedside. It allows me to see the light in the dark when I need it.

So for grins and tickles, on 01/24 at 9-PM, I took my testing Pro unit, installed a new Duracell battery, and turned it onto the lowest LED setting. As of this writing, it's 02/10 at 3:30-PM. If I did the math correctly, that's almost 17-days. In 5.5 hours, that means it has been running constantly for 408-hours. I can tell it's just about at the end of it's life. The beam is still bright enough to cast a beam onto an object from a foot away in total darkness, but I'm pretty sure it's only a few hours away from crapping out.


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 10, 2008)

Thanks for doing this low level testing, TIN. I've been tempted to do this myself, but haven't wanted to take it out of commission for so long.

Geoff


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## this_is_nascar (Feb 17, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> As you recall, this update showed that the Proton Pro will run on the lowest WHITE setting for approximately 230-hours. Throughout the course of this time, the beam is very useful, meaning you can actually use it to see things. This test got me to thinking about the burn-time of the RED led on its very lowest setting. In my opinion, the lowest RED setting is not useful for much at all, other than possibly checking your watch in a totally dark room. For navigation or real-life usefullnes, I just don't think it's bright enough. That being said, I do currently use the lowest RED setting as a location setting, meaning I leave it on that setting on the Pro that I keep by bedside. It allows me to see the light in the dark when I need it.
> 
> So for grins and tickles, on 01/24 at 9-PM, I took my testing Pro unit, installed a new Duracell battery, and turned it onto the lowest LED setting. As of this writing, it's 02/10 at 3:30-PM. If I did the math correctly, that's almost 17-days. In 5.5 hours, that means it has been running constantly for 408-hours. I can tell it's just about at the end of it's life. The beam is still bright enough to cast a beam onto an object from a foot away in total darkness, but I'm pretty sure it's only a few hours away from crapping out.



At approximately 3pm today (02/17) the RED led went out. Someone else can do the math, but that's not to bad.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 17, 2008)

That's not nearly as long as I expected it to run on the lowest red setting. I figured it would run for thousands of hours, mostly because it is so dim it's not even funny. As you said it's only useful in truly pitch black settings, and even then only if you are checking your watch or something up close.


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## paulr (Feb 17, 2008)

The microprocessor and the dc/dc converter probably both use some power that isn't getting to the led.


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## kilgor (Feb 18, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> At approximately 3pm today (02/17) the RED led went out. Someone else can do the math, but that's not to bad.



570 hours.


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## CPEng (Mar 1, 2008)

Has anyone noticed their lights denting the neg side on nimh batteries. I just received mine, like it a lot but it leaves .025" (approx) dents from the neg battery contact on the two different nimh batteries I have tried. This is without dropping the light. I contacted LRI yesterday but haven't received a reply yet.

I don't mean to high jack this thread but was wondering if this has happened to anyone else. My light has a cantilever neg contact spring compared to coil springs that are in most lights.


Thanks
CPEng


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## this_is_nascar (Mar 1, 2008)

I haven't noticed that, but I'm only using Energizer E2 lithium cells in mine. I can certainly see how that could happen, since there really doesn't seem to be much "give" for various battery lengths.


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## Sir Lightalot (Mar 1, 2008)

The same thing happens in my L2d with all the rechargeables i put in it. I don't think it hurts anything though.


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## AFAustin (Mar 1, 2008)

I use an eneloop in mine, and yes the - contact leaves a small circular mark on it. But, it seems to be very superficial (not deep), so I haven't worried.


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## CPEng (Mar 1, 2008)

Thanks, at least I know I'm not the only one though I don't know how I could be. I guess I will continue to use the batteries and hope for the best. I just don't want a ruined flashlight because a battery leaked or blew up inside because I wanted to save money and battery waste by using rechargeables.


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## Yapo (Oct 7, 2008)

.


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## DuckhunterInTN (Nov 3, 2008)

Has anyone discovered a way to program this light so that the red led will blink to serve as a locator?


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## Flying Turtle (Nov 4, 2008)

The red LED will blink as a locator. Seems to be about one blink/4 seconds. Just continue holding the switch as it ramps up to full red. The next mode is slow red blink.

Geoff


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## DuckhunterInTN (Nov 4, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> The red LED will blink as a locator. Seems to be about one blink/4 seconds. Just continue holding the switch as it ramps up to full red. The next mode is slow red blink.
> 
> Geoff


 

Sorry, I should have been more specific. I would like for it to blink the red LED at its lowest setting. The mode you describe is at full power, which is definitely a great locator, but a little hard to sleep beside! :laughing:


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## bigfoot (Nov 10, 2008)

Great reviews, info, and photos in this thread -- many thanks! I picked up a Proton Pro (last one on the shelves) at Sportsman's Warehouse recently and have been very impressed.

The emitter (or maybe it's the reflector) is off center ever-so-slightly in mine. Other than that, the build quality is excellent. I do notice the dark ring in the beam (as in the pictures in this thread) but it's not that bad in use at all.

With a 1xAA form factor, the ability to use common lithium / alkaline / rechargeable cells, and a white & red LED, this light is a keeper!

It's also nice to support an Oregon-based company.


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## Yapo (Nov 13, 2008)

I noticed on my light when i sometimes turn on the red led and release when its on and then hold to ramp up to max there is still a noticable PWM at max but if i ramp up straight from off to max there is none. Has anyone else experienced that?


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## Rob187 (Nov 13, 2008)

Yapo said:


> I noticed on my light when i sometimes turn on the red led and release when its on and then hold to ramp up to max there is still a noticable PWM at max but if i ramp up straight from off to max there is none. Has anyone else experienced that?


 
Yapo

That is one of the three 'easter eggs' in the Proton UI.

Rob


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## Yapo (Nov 14, 2008)

right...i just did a search and found em. thx


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## LightObsession (Dec 15, 2008)

Thanks for the review.

Anyone still buying these? I think that my wife would prefer a side switch light rather than a tail switch light (no need to change grip to turn the light on / off or change brightness).

She would be using the light every day for maybe as much as an hour, but it would be in short intervals of probably 5 to 10 minutes. It would probably be used in Max output much of the time.

Has there been any updates or improvements to this light since it was introduced last year?

Suggestions for easily locating the light in the dark?

I carry a Fenix L1P 1w and a Fenix P2D all the time, but I think I would also appreciate the side switch much of the time.


Is CFR still the best source for this light?

Any other helpful reviews out there for this light?



Thanks.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 15, 2008)

If your wife doesn't mind it starting on high there's many good things about this light. The side switch, the clip, small size, red option, 3 min. shutdown option, decent throw, and a real low. About the only shortcoming is the ringy beam, which can easily be fixed with a spritz of hairspray on the reflector.

I'd probably still buy another if I lost mine. Not sure where the best place to get them these days. I think Battery Junction used to have some of the lowest prices.

Geoff


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## Burgess (Dec 15, 2008)

I still like mine. :thumbsup:



It certainly *does *have a ringy beam.


However . . . .


I'll bet, if you don't *mention* it,


your wife won't even NOTICE it.



Just watch.

_


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## parnass (Dec 15, 2008)

LightObsession said:


> Thanks for the review.
> 
> Anyone still buying these? I think that my wife would prefer a side switch light ....
> 
> ...



I bought an LRI Proton Pro from CFR Lights recently after reading this thread and the other reviews.

Check out the battery runtime graphs. Based on your description of how your wife would use a flashlight, I suggest she consider other lights with longer runtimes. Too, the Proton Pro is packed with a lot of features which she wouldn't use.

The light works as advertised and is pretty well built, but I'm still not sure the Proton Pro is the light for me either. I fiddle with the bells and whistles, but I haven't put them to serious use yet.


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## thelightdude (Dec 19, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> If your wife doesn't mind it starting on high there's many good things about this light. The side switch, the clip, small size, red option, 3 min. shutdown option, decent throw, and a real low. About the only shortcoming is the ringy beam, which can easily be fixed with a spritz of hairspray on the reflector.
> 
> I'd probably still buy another if I lost mine. Not sure where the best place to get them these days. I think Battery Junction used to have some of the lowest prices.
> 
> Geoff



Thanks Turtle, I forgot about the undocumented 3 minute auto-shutoff. I wanted to carry it on my keyring but found it would occasionally turn itself on. With the auto off and morse code mode it should be safe to carry on a keyring.


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## Yapo (Jun 25, 2009)

Just wondering to those of u who have opened up their proton pro for modding or admiring or curiosity how u managed to unscrew the middle section(not the bezel to the lens/reflector) to get behind the LEDs to the guts?

...Ive been trying all day with rubber bands and heating to get it apart but havent had any luck 

I suppose u twist it off in the same direction as the front bezel to get it off is that correct?


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## nekomane (Jun 25, 2009)

Yapo said:


> I suppose u twist it off in the same direction as the front bezel to get it off is that correct?


Yes, correct. Did you see the pics I posted from post#159-173?

Try applying some nail polish remover (acetone) to the threads?


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## Yapo (Jun 25, 2009)

wow quick reply! Thx yeah i saw ur pics awhile back n looked at em and the posts around them again today for a way to open it up.

I dont have any nail polish remover but might try and get some...

EDIT: I found some alcohol and tried using some of that but i dont think its gettin into the threads as it seems to be screwd on quite tightly so u cant even tell that there is a joint or threads there


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## bltkmt (Jul 9, 2014)

Forever curious why this light is not more popular around here.


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## Flying Turtle (Jul 10, 2014)

It's still an old favorite of mine. One of a few in my personal light Hall of Fame. I wore out the switch boot on the first version and it's pretty thin on version 2. I been tempted to see if the Photon folks would fix it, but I really seldom use it any more, except for occasional grins.

Geoff


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## Apex007 (Jul 15, 2014)

Flying Turtle said:


> It's still an old favorite of mine. One of a few in my personal light Hall of Fame. I wore out the switch boot on the first version and it's pretty thin on version 2. I been tempted to see if the Photon folks would fix it, but I really seldom use it any more, except for occasional grins.
> 
> Geoff


They fixed mine quickly for free. New button installed and light returned in about a week.


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