# Surefire LX2 (Part 2)



## KDOG3 (Jun 27, 2009)

*Continued from **Part 1* 


Well its here! As far as output goes its a little hard to tell if its brighter than the E2DL since its daytime. Looks roughly the same, which is fine by me since the E2DL rated around 200 lumens anyway. The tint is spectacular as well as the beam profile. Couldn't take beamshots since my camera (Samsung Glyde cell) wouldn't do them well. Here are some pics in order from its arrival, I don't know how I had the patience to take the pics before completely opening it up and playing with but I somehow I managed...

I like the black box it came with. The outer box has a flap on the back containing specs in a bunch of other languages. Enjoy!




By kdog2009





By kdog2009




By kdog2009




By kdog2009




By kdog2009



By kdog2009


----------



## DM51 (Jul 4, 2009)

*Re: Surefire LX2*

Part 1 expanded rapidly to almost 500 posts, so it is continued here. Post #1 above is a copy of the post with the first photos received of the LX2.


----------



## Monocrom (Jul 4, 2009)

Has anyone tried out their LX2 with their hands covered in sweat?

I'd like to know how much of a difference there is with the lack of aggressive knurling.


----------



## :)> (Jul 4, 2009)

Monocrom said:


> Has anyone tried out their LX2 with their hands covered in sweat?
> 
> I'd like to know how much of a difference there is with the lack of aggressive knurling.


 
I haven't used it with wet or sweaty hands, but I was just thinking the other day that the ridges, grooves, cut-outs etc. provide an outstanding grip. I would have complete confidence using it in a wet environment.

One more thing... the LX2 is one of the best looking lights that I have ever seen; I love the look of the new body style!

I am also very happy with the output, the levels and the UI. The 2-stage tailcap is wonderful to use.


----------



## BRO (Jul 4, 2009)

I did not need another flashlight but I did plan on purchasing an E2DL at some point in the future. Then I started reading this thread and I went through this whole "do I need it or do I just want it" mind game. I decided to sleep on it last night and this morning I decided "it is not about the need, it is about the want". So I ordered one. 

I hope it is as nice as the descriptions I am reading, this will be my first Surefire LED. I have a couple of older Surefire flashlights but I don't use them at all. I mostly use my Tk11 (r2) or my RA 170 (EDC), so I am really looking forward to this new Surefire LED. I'm betting that I will like it. Regards// BRO


----------



## Hef (Jul 4, 2009)

Ok.....I have to have the LX2. Can you guys help me out with finding the best price. Much appreciated.


----------



## BRO (Jul 4, 2009)

Hef said:


> Ok.....I have to have the LX2. Can you guys help me out with finding the best price. Much appreciated.


 
I did not do a lot of shopping around but I bought mine from Spyder Tactical Supply. Really do not know if it is the cheapest place to buy from but I find it hard to believe that your going to beat the free shipping for an LX2. Regards/ BRO


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 4, 2009)

I think im gonna have to grab one of these $156 is hard to pass up  Especially for a light that outdoes an E2Dl. Here goes my M2XC4 money lol


----------



## rejeme (Jul 4, 2009)

I think the people at Spyder's were off Friday due to the holiday. I tried calling them around noon to check stock as their website does not specify "in stock" or not. I think they're going to have a backorder come Monday.


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 4, 2009)

rejeme said:


> I think the people at Spyder's were off Friday due to the holiday. I tried calling them around noon to check stock as their website does not specify "in stock" or not. I think they're going to have a backorder come Monday.


 


Damn it....you might be right....DAMN IT!:thumbsdow:mecry::mecry:....those smilies express my feelings in order after reading your post!


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 4, 2009)

Does Spyder usually list their products as in stock or not?


----------



## MikeF (Jul 4, 2009)

OpticsHQ have great service.


----------



## johndoeslo (Jul 4, 2009)

**Post removed due to moderator comment and not wanting to put dealers in jeopardy**


----------



## DM51 (Jul 4, 2009)

Members are reminded that Surefire have forbidden their dealers from offering discounts. It is unwise to discuss them in open forum, as this could have adverse consequences for the dealer.


----------



## zs&tas (Jul 4, 2009)

beamshots, even crappy ones  want an lx1 so interested...... lx2 looks sweeeeeet


----------



## Bronco (Jul 4, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> Here goes my M2XC4 money lol



LOL. I was in exactly the same boat. I've been eyeing the M2XC4 for months now. Guess it'll have to wait a few more months.


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 4, 2009)

Bronco said:


> LOL. I was in exactly the same boat. I've been eyeing the M2XC4 for months now. Guess it'll have to wait a few more months.



Hey the way I see it there are still a couple kinks they may be able to work out while I build my cash supply back up  And DM51 has a good point


----------



## DLaird8201 (Jul 4, 2009)

I just bought one. Thanks for posting all the great info about this light. Wanted to wait for the A2L, because of the flood and throw factor :naughty:, but I just couldn't help my self. Thanks again every one. :bow:


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 4, 2009)

zs&tas said:


> beamshots, even crappy ones  want an lx1 so interested...... lx2 looks sweeeeeet



Beamshots from Part 1. And theres more if you look through there!


----------



## cue003 (Jul 4, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> Does Spyder usually list their products as in stock or not?



They also list the Saint for sale so try to stet the order process or that light and see way it says. I believe the saint even aailable for sale yet at all but it seems to be completely orderable from spider without any major mention of availability that I was able to see.


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 4, 2009)

cue003 said:


> They also list the Saint for sale so try to stet the order process or that light and see way it says. I believe the saint even aailable for sale yet at all but it seems to be completely orderable from spider without any major mention of availability that I was able to see.



Yea I had noticed that also but didnt know if the saint's had started shipping yet. I think a few people have received LX2's from Spyder so unless they ran out im guessing they did/do have em.


----------



## Death's Head (Jul 4, 2009)

DM51 said:


> Members are reminded that Surefire have forbidden their dealers from offering discounts. It is unwise to discuss them in open forum, as this could have adverse consequences for the dealer.


That's what I have been saying all along as well.
I think they have them in stock now. At least when I ordered mine. They didn't even have the light listed last week, but they do now.


----------



## prime77 (Jul 4, 2009)

Some LEGO fun. KL4 on LX2 body and LX2 head on L4 body.






I also noticed something about the head of the LX2. It's much beefier at the base where it screws on the body of the light than other E series lights. Do you guys think that is more metal for added heatsink.


----------



## zs&tas (Jul 5, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> Beamshots from Part 1. And theres more if you look through there!


 
haha im a twit  thanks, thats awsome ! such a useful light , i keep meaning to get the f04 diffuser for my extreme cant wait for the lx1 might just have to get the lx2 now hehe


----------



## Palestofwhite (Jul 5, 2009)

zs&tas said:


> haha im a twit  thanks, thats awsome ! such a useful light , i keep meaning to get the f04 diffuser for my extreme cant wait for the lx1 might just have to get the lx2 now hehe



That's exactly the plan. I hope my LX2 arrives by tomorrow. I have also sold my L1 prior to the LX1. Really love the UI that came with the L series. I sold the E2DL because of that. I also used the F04 for my E2DL and it's now waiting to be fitted onto the LX2.


----------



## :)> (Jul 5, 2009)

If I am not mistaken, it looks as if the threads on the tailcap are square threads... they are definitely different than the threads used to attach the head to the body.

Am I the only one?


----------



## Hef (Jul 5, 2009)

I am just about ready to pull the trigger on a LX2......but wait I keep hearing talk about the LX1. Can someone tell me what the specs will be on it, how many batteries, lumens, type of switch,etc.

Thanks

Just what I need another expensive addiction; first bassboat, guns and now flashlights!!!!!

Much appreciated!


----------



## Illumination (Jul 5, 2009)

Hef said:


> I am just about ready to pull the trigger on a LX2......but wait I keep hearing talk about the LX1. Can someone tell me what the specs will be on it, how many batteries, lumens, type of switch,etc.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> ...




See the SF catalog:

http://www.surefire.com/maxexp/main.pl?pgm=co_catreq&func=disp&strfnbr=6&sesent=0,0


----------



## Kiessling (Jul 5, 2009)

How does the KL4A behave on the LX2 body? 2-stage?
bernie


----------



## KDOG3 (Jul 5, 2009)

I'm hoping for updated lumen output figures. The E1B was shown to actually put out MUCH more than the 80 lumens listed - (around 120)- so I'm hoping the same goes for the upcoming LX1 and that its listed with closer to the actual output. Surefire sells themselves short when they are TOO conservative with their output numbers. I mean the could really be quites safe as listing the L1/E1B as having, say, 105 lumens for the high output.


----------



## MikeF (Jul 5, 2009)

Kiessling said:


> How does the KL4A behave on the LX2 body? 2-stage?
> bernie


 
Bernie,
I don't have a KL4A but the KL4 from my TW4 Serial #A43362 becomes a two stage head when I put it on my LX2.


----------



## Kiessling (Jul 5, 2009)

Cool, thanx !

Any flickering or misbehaviour?


----------



## Optik49 (Jul 5, 2009)

MikeF said:


> OpticsHQ have great service.


 

_That is where I ordered :twothumbs_


----------



## MikeF (Jul 5, 2009)

Kiessling said:


> Cool, thanx !
> 
> Any flickering or misbehaviour?


 

Steady and no problems.


----------



## Kenpcfl (Jul 5, 2009)

Looks like Spyder did run out of LX2's with everyone ordering over the weekend. I got an email from them this afternoon that, indeed, they could not fill all these orders from stock. They are going to reorder first thing Monday morning and hope to ship back out to us this week.


----------



## DM51 (Jul 5, 2009)

Kenpcfl... I have edited your post. Please read post #14 above.


----------



## GreySave (Jul 5, 2009)

I thought the electronics for the LX2 were in the head? If so, How can an L4 single stage head (Isn't that what a KL4 Head is) become a two stage when attached to the LX2 body?

Or do I have my KL4 / L4 ETC... heads all confused....


----------



## jp2515 (Jul 5, 2009)

GreySave said:


> I thought the electronics for the LX2 were in the head? If so, How can an L4 single stage head (Isn't that what a KL4 Head is) become a two stage when attached to the LX2 body?
> 
> Or do I have my KL4 / L4 ETC... heads all confused....



I think it may have something to do with the resistors or something in the tail cap


----------



## Tiny86 (Jul 5, 2009)

Monocrom said:


> Has anyone tried out their LX2 with their hands covered in sweat?
> 
> I'd like to know how much of a difference there is with the lack of aggressive knurling.


 
Yes, IMO the LX2 is just fine. I can hang on to this thing just as well as a 6P or G2. 

I also take it running at night with me and it is great! My hands don't get all the sweaty then but a little. 

I have had mine for four days now, and three 4 of my friends are now getting Surefires!


----------



## hcd615 (Jul 5, 2009)

PM received...


----------



## nismotor (Jul 5, 2009)

This thread needs to be deleted or something... Too many people are not aware that what they say are ruining it for everyone else, and the dealers who are trying to give us a break. Everyone READ previous posts BEFORE asking questions! Especially post #14 by dm51!!!!:sigh:


----------



## Sean (Jul 5, 2009)

Here's a picture of how and where my LX2 clip rubs on the tailcap:







It does not seem to be much of an issue for me because it barely touches the tailcap. Carefully bending the clip away from the tailcap would seem to be the easiest "mod" one could do to eliminate this if they see it as a problem.


----------



## Bullzeyebill (Jul 5, 2009)

GreySave said:


> I thought the electronics for the LX2 were in the head? If so, How can an L4 single stage head (Isn't that what a KL4 Head is) become a two stage when attached to the LX2 body?
> 
> Or do I have my KL4 / L4 ETC... heads all confused....



The LX2 tailcap has the resistor which allows the low mode.

Bill


----------



## GreySave (Jul 6, 2009)

<< The LX2 tailcap has the resistor which allows the low mode. >>

Thank you for clarifying that. You just gave me a great reason to hold onto my L4!


----------



## Palestofwhite (Jul 6, 2009)

I've just gotten mine from the mail today...

It is just like my previous E2DL but with the UI of my choice and it's definitely brighter! I now keep mine in a SF nylon holster with the F04 on. Will be my main light for now and the T1A as my choice for EDC.

I'm eagerly awaiting for my Zebralight H30-Q5 to arrive and also for the LX1 to be released sometime soon. All great lights for different applications!


----------



## hcd615 (Jul 6, 2009)

*Surefire LX2 Lanyard*

Just curious how many people use the supplied lanyard on the SF LX2. I personally don't and I take off the lanyard ring as I sometimes like to put the light in a Ripoff holster.


----------



## DM51 (Jul 6, 2009)

*Re: Surefire LX2 Lanyard*

Merging lanyard query with the main LX2 thread.


----------



## seattlite (Jul 6, 2009)

Does the LX2 have the same drive current as the E2DL, KX2C, X300? Or, is the preceived brightness of the LX2 compared with the E2DL due to SF LED Lottery?


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 6, 2009)

Not using the lanyard here.
I am trying to resist taking the ring off. I keep thinking that one day it might be needed. :thinking: I honestly doubt it though.

The deep groove in the tailcap would be a great place for some reflective tape or a GITD O-ring.


----------



## youreacrab (Jul 6, 2009)

*Re: Surefire LX2 Lanyard*



hcd615 said:


> Just curious how many people use the supplied lanyard on the SF LX2. I personally don't and I take off the lanyard ring as I sometimes like to put the light in a Ripoff holster.



took the ring off, it really clutters the "dashboard." if i need a lanyard i can wrap the cord (minus the split ring and 'biner) around the recess and cinch it closed with a cord lock.


----------



## henry1960 (Jul 6, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> Not using the lanyard here.
> I am trying to resist taking the ring off. I keep thinking that one day it might be needed. :thinking: I honestly doubt it though.
> 
> The deep groove in the tailcap would be a great place for some reflective tape or a GITD O-ring.




I`ll Keep The Ring On My Self For Now Also 

But I Do Not Use The Lanyard

But Like Sgt. Said, One Day It Might Be Needed :thumbsup:


----------



## Death's Head (Jul 6, 2009)

Sean said:


> Here's a picture of how and where my LX2 clip rubs on the tailcap:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The A2L in the catalog has the same set-up, but the clip is not touching the tailcap.


----------



## Death's Head (Jul 6, 2009)

How do you take off the lanyard ring?


----------



## hcd615 (Jul 6, 2009)

I took a very tiny, tiny flat head screwdriver and just pressed the blade straight down were the two halfs meet. The flipped it over and pressed were the other two halfs meet and it popped off. Just be careful after you do the first side that when you do it to the other side sometimes the first side snaps back together.


----------



## Sean (Jul 6, 2009)

Death's Head said:


> The A2L in the catalog has the same set-up, but the clip is not touching the tailcap.



The LX2 pic from the catalog shows it's clip not touching the tailcap either. :green:
Just because it looks that way in the catalog does not mean it will ship like that. In all honesty, it needs to have enough tension to touch the tailcap or it would not really even be a "clip" (in the bezel up position). Meaning it could fall out of your pocket. I think more people would be upset if they lost their flashlight because the clip had no tension then if the tailcap might get a little scratch on it from use.


----------



## Palestofwhite (Jul 6, 2009)

I had a hard time removing the lanyard ring from my LX2 but finally did it in the end with my mini flat screw driver. It's easier for me to put it back into my SF holster now. Before that I have to align the protruding ring part with the clip for it to fit nicely.


----------



## IMTRBO (Jul 6, 2009)

With regards to the tailcap operation, do any of you experience physical resistance from the switch when going from low to high?

On my LX2, I find that I do not have any physical resistance between the two modes. As a result, I very often go into high mode by accident, even when pressing lightly on the switch.

I've never owned a 2 stage Surefire before, mine have always been single stage or clickys, so I'm not sure if they are all supposed to be like that. However I did handle an L2 and an A2 a few years back, and I thought I remembered there being a good feel of resistance between the two levels. (it's been a while, so don't really remember)

I don't suppose there is a way to achieve some sort of resistance to the switch?


----------



## Robert_M (Jul 6, 2009)

KDOG3 said:


> I'm hoping for updated lumen output figures. The E1B was shown to actually put out MUCH more than the 80 lumens listed - (around 120)- so I'm hoping the same goes for the upcoming LX1 and that its listed with closer to the actual output. Surefire sells themselves short when they are TOO conservative with their output numbers. I mean the could really be quites safe as listing the L1/E1B as having, say, 105 lumens for the high output.


 
MrGman's real IS measurement showed 85.3 Lumens for the E1B. Where did you see a measured value of 120 Lumens? My E1B seems about the same as my G2L (82 Lumens by MrGman for same LED in 6PL) when measured in my light box. Is there an E1B lottery? :thinking: The E2DL is definitely underated though, so your point in general is valid.  Follow the link below for 6PLED, E1B, E2DL (and many more) Lumen measurements:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2920295&postcount=1


----------



## 270winchester (Jul 6, 2009)

Robert_M said:


> MrGman's real IS measurement showed 85.3 Lumens for the E1B. Where did you see a measured value of 120 Lumens?https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2920295&postcount=1



he tested one E1B, hardly a good sample size. The same with the E2DL's 200 lumen, he tested a out-performer but people around here seem to believe 1=all.


----------



## KDOG3 (Jul 6, 2009)

Oh I didn't realize that Mr Gman had tested one. I was going by what some had said when their E1B was the same as their HDS 120 I believe....


----------



## Robert_M (Jul 6, 2009)

270winchester said:


> he tested one E1B, hardly a good sample size. The same with the E2DL's 200 lumen, he tested a out-performer but people around here seem to believe 1=all.


Which is probably why Surefire plays it conservative and "seems" to underate their lights. There will always be outliers ...


----------



## zven (Jul 6, 2009)

IMTRBO said:


> With regards to the tailcap operation, do any of you experience physical resistance from the switch when going from low to high?
> 
> On my LX2, I find that I do not have any physical resistance between the two modes. As a result, I very often go into high mode by accident, even when pressing lightly on the switch.
> 
> ...



I've had an L1 for a couple years now, and it does not have any physical resistance or physical feedback of any sort between the low and high modes. Granted, mine is the only two-stage model I've handled, but I've always assumed they were all like this. I suppose it would theoretically possible to design a tailcap that gave you some sort of feedback like that, but I doubt there's any realistic way of modifying an existing LX2/etc. tailcap to give you that kind of resistance.


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 6, 2009)

I got mine today.
Overall love it! :thumbsup:

It appears to be brighter then my E2DL, and i will make further judgements on that when it gets dark.

Took some pictures of it.
Mine has a few spots of missing ano, but i'm not upset.
However the printing on the tailcap is a little blotty, which i was a little upset by, because normally it is perfect.


Here are a few pics.


----------



## PinarelloOnly (Jul 6, 2009)

Sean said:


> Here's a picture of how and where my LX2 clip rubs on the tailcap:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




This is the exact issue I had with these new lights coming out with those
two way clips.You can't help but eventually get rub/scrape marks on the 
tail cap when turning to constant on or changing batteries in a hurry. The light actually beats-up its own tail-cap!

You guys watch what happens when these things start selling used. It will 
be a big deal about how the tail-caps look.

Weather you're a fan of the two way clip or not it is a horrible design to
have that clip touching a MOVING PART!!!


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 6, 2009)

I dont get it, someone please shed some light (no pun intended ) on this situation... lots of people are saying "well it seems to be brighter than my E2DL" or "yes, its a little brighter than my E2DL" well....its 80 lumens brighter...is it just luck of the draw and some E2DLs happen to be brighter than 120 and some LX2s happen to be dimmer than 200? whats the deal? i already ordered the LX2, which is on backorder right now, no surprise there, and i am looking forward to a light that is SIGNIFICANTLY brighter than my E2DL...am i gonna be disappointed?( ive seen ALL of the beamshots and some were significantly brighter and some looked identical :thinking is it possible that the LX2 will be the same or VERY close to the output of my E2DL, because the extra 80 is why i purchased it... i like the clickie on the E2DL better but for 80 lumens more i can deal with the LX2 tailcap!


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 6, 2009)

Mine is definitely alot brighter then my E2DL!
However like i stated, it is only 2:00PM at the moment, so there is no way i can judge how much brighter it really is!

I will try and do some shots tonight.

Will be my first attempt at it


----------



## seattlite (Jul 6, 2009)

MikeF said:


> OpticsHQ have great service.





Optik49 said:


> _That is where I ordered :twothumbs_



Same here.....price was also GREAT.


----------



## CandlePowerForumsUser (Jul 7, 2009)

First to crack this baby open?
Got mine today and found beam to be off because the emitter is not centered 

Well, out comes and straps and pop goes the head. This is within 20mins of breaking the light out the box 

Anyways, getting the head open was easy. Had to take the headsink part off too and that was a pain. Tinker here and there, heatsink thermal paste here and there. Light is back together and beam is smooth. Tint is slightly warm which I love. Its bright, I have a KX2 with a Q5 bin powered by a Son of Buck 1000 driver and the LX2 is just as, if not, brighter. LX2 has a more focused beam so it throws a lot better. I'm impressed but kinda bummed that the emitter wasn't centered. Easy for me to fix but I'm sure there are people out there that would have some trouble and not even want to deal with it at all. Oh well.

Also, this is a first L any surefire light so the UI is totally new to me and its kinda weird so far. I'm use to a clicky. 

Here are some comparison pics of a KX2 and LX2 head taken apart. 


LX2 is on the left, KX2 is on the right.





Notice the lens on my LX2 is clear vs. the KX2 which is slightly frosted.


----------



## zven (Jul 7, 2009)

DimeRazorback said:


> Mine is definitely alot brighter then my E2DL!
> However like i stated, it is only 2:00PM at the moment, so there is no way i can judge how much brighter it really is!
> 
> I will try and do some shots tonight.
> ...



Not sure if you'll get this in time, but I don't suppose you could include your 6P/M60 in your set of beamshots? I'd be quite interested in how the LX2 and M60 compare in useful throw.


----------



## CandlePowerForumsUser (Jul 7, 2009)

my internet connection is weaksauce


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 7, 2009)

zven said:


> Not sure if you'll get this in time, but I don't suppose you could include your 6P/M60 in your set of beamshots? I'd be quite interested in how the LX2 and M60 compare in useful throw.



The M60 was in my plan :thumbsup:
Don't know if i will get the time to tonight though.
I will do my best!


----------



## Palestofwhite (Jul 7, 2009)

Ok just my luck I guess. I was looking at my LX2 and I found that there is actually some dirt or grease on the reflector itself. How am I supposed to open this head up and clean it from inside?


----------



## KDOG3 (Jul 7, 2009)

Theres' no refector in the LX2, its just an optic. Is it bad enough to open it?


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 7, 2009)

I just created a thread with the rest of my beamshots.

Here is a comparison of the LX2, E2DL, and Malkoff M60:































I'll hopefully get some outdoors ones up soon! :thumbsup:


----------



## Palestofwhite (Jul 7, 2009)

KDOG3 said:


> Theres' no refector in the LX2, its just an optic. Is it bad enough to open it?



Hello,

I'm not sure if it's affecting the output, but it is pretty obvious when you look at it. It seems dirty inside. Should I risk trying to open it up?


----------



## Sean (Jul 7, 2009)

Scotty007 said:


> I dont get it, someone please shed some light (no pun intended ) on this situation... lots of people are saying "well it seems to be brighter than my E2DL" or "yes, its a little brighter than my E2DL" well....its 80 lumens brighter...is it just luck of the draw and some E2DLs happen to be brighter than 120 and some LX2s happen to be dimmer than 200? whats the deal? i already ordered the LX2, which is on backorder right now, no surprise there, and i am looking forward to a light that is SIGNIFICANTLY brighter than my E2DL...am i gonna be disappointed?( ive seen ALL of the beamshots and some were significantly brighter and some looked identical :thinking is it possible that the LX2 will be the same or VERY close to the output of my E2DL, because the extra 80 is why i purchased it... i like the clickie on the E2DL better but for 80 lumens more i can deal with the LX2 tailcap!



This has been discussed many times already but here is the deal. The E2DL is rated @ 120 lumens. People who have had these tested have seen results between 160-210 lumens. This depends on what LED is used (i.e. the lottery). It seems that the spec is old and instead of Surefire changing it, we were "blessed" with brighter E2DL's then the 120 lumen high stated on the package. Now the LX2 comes along. It's rated @ 200 lumens. It's probably slightly over 200 lumens. I would think they will all meet this minimum. For some reason people are upset if their E2DL's are brighter than they were suppose to be. I just don't see the logic in expecting the LX2 to be 80 lumens brighter than the E2DL. Surefire never stated this to be the case. Surefire stated that the LX2 will be 200 lumens. It stands to reason that if your LX2 is indeed 200 lumens then they have not defaulted on their claim.


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic (Jul 7, 2009)

Sean said:


> This has been discussed many times already but here is the deal. The E2DL is rated @ 120 lumens. People who have had these tested have seen results between 160-210 lumens. This depends on what LED is used (i.e. the lottery). It seems that the spec is old and instead of Surefire changing it, we were "blessed" with brighter E2DL's then the 120 lumen high stated on the package. Now the LX2 comes along. It's rated @ 200 lumens. It's probably slightly over 200 lumens. I would think they will all meet this minimum. For some reason people are upset if their E2DL's are brighter than they were suppose to be. I just don't see the logic in expecting the LX2 to be 80 lumens brighter than the E2DL. Surefire never stated this to be the case. Surefire stated that the LX2 will be 200 lumens. It stands to reason that if your LX2 is indeed 200 lumens then they have not defaulted on their claim.


*+1*

All LX2 samples will have a minimum of 200 guaranteed lumens out-the-front straight out of the box (and probably more than that in most cases). So in the worst case scenario, Scotty007's light will have 200 confirmed lumens, not bad at all.


----------



## Numbers (Jul 7, 2009)

Just ordered mine. On back order, of course, but I wanted to wait until a few made it into the hands of fellow CPF'ers and I could read the comments. I am expecting this to be my best SF yet. Now the waiting.....


----------



## Monocrom (Jul 7, 2009)

Palestofwhite said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm not sure if it's affecting the output, but it is pretty obvious when you look at it. It seems dirty inside. Should I risk trying to open it up?


 
Nope! Send it back. This isn't some crappy .99 cent, multi-LED light. Your light snuck by Surefire Q.C.

They need to make it right.


----------



## Size15's (Jul 7, 2009)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> [All LX2 samples will have a minimum of 200 guaranteed lumens out-the-front straight out of the box.


Please can you share where SureFire have stated this. I've seen no such guarantee on any production specifications, literature or other official SureFire publication.


----------



## johndoeslo (Jul 7, 2009)

Monocrom said:


> Nope! Send it back. This isn't some crappy .99 cent, multi-LED light. Your light snuck by Surefire Q.C.
> 
> They need to make it right.


 
+1

You paid for a certain product and you should demand receipt of it.


----------



## iapyx (Jul 7, 2009)

Size15's said:


> Please can you share where SureFire have stated this. I've seen no such guarantee on any production specifications, literature or other official SureFire publication.


 
I think Al has a point here. He wants us (anche io) to think before we say something here.


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic (Jul 7, 2009)

Size15's said:


> Please can you share where SureFire have stated this. I've seen no such guarantee on any production specifications, literature or other official SureFire publication.


It's not an official statement. It's just my personal experience testing SureFire products and reading countless reports, reviews, I.S lab tests and comparisons since day one in CPF.

I've never seen or read about a single SureFire flashlight or weapon light delivering less than the factory claimed output. Quite the opposite: they all seem to deliver more than the stated output.


----------



## Size15's (Jul 7, 2009)

Yeah... I am not comfortable with such inflexible and unscientifically-evidenced phrasing as "will have" and "minimum guaranteed".
I am more comfortable with a phrase such as "it appears to be the prevailing opinion/experience on CPF that SureFire tends to under-rate the lumen output of many of its products and that for some products the rating can be considered more like a 'minimum' rather than a representative average."


----------



## Numbers (Jul 7, 2009)

I just re read the web site it says "capable of producing 200 lumens". 
I would be concerned about such advertising were it not SF and it's reputation on the line.


----------



## Kestrel (Jul 7, 2009)

Size15's said:


> I am more comfortable with a phrase such as "it appears to be the prevailing opinion/experience on CPF that SureFire tends to under-rate the lumen output of many of its products and that for some products the rating can be considered more like a 'minimum' rather than a representative average."


What he said.


----------



## Palestofwhite (Jul 7, 2009)

Monocrom said:


> Nope! Send it back. This isn't some crappy .99 cent, multi-LED light. Your light snuck by Surefire Q.C.
> 
> They need to make it right.




Thanks for all the good advice! I just dropped them a mail. Expensive international calls and time differences sure are problems. I do hope they can handle this as professionally as what was reported by many others on CPF.


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 7, 2009)

Well im kinda bummed. I just ordered my light the other day only to get an email letting me know that their stock had run out along with Surefires stock and it will take Surefire 2-3 weeks to get some more out to them. So i should have an LX2 in about a month :sigh: Maybe my EDC-P7 will come in sometime soon since it was supposed to have been in a week ago? Man am I impatient! But I can say im extremely happy that the LX2 is EDC style (Low then High)  All my other lights to date are "tactical" Style other than my twisty and let me be the first to say it get's old blowin 200+ lumens in your face off a white wall or snow with night adapted eyes I guess you can say im becoming enlightened.


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 8, 2009)

OK I gave up on the LX2 adoration and got back to regular business. Today I cracked into it more than just putting 2 trits into the clip. There is AR on the lens and down in the pocket of the optic. Inside the build looks just the same as any other E series Cree.

I took off the lanyard ring but it can go back on if I need it, I probably won't.
I put a stripe of SOLAS reflective tape in the former lanyard ring space, looks nice and is recessed deep enough so nothing will ever bother the tape.
I opened the head and centered the emitter properly, throw increased a bit.
I also put a glow disk down in there and the fit is perfect, I think there are more OTF lumens now thanks to the higher reflectivity and the afterglow is impressive.
In the small bezel gap that these all have I put a 1/2 inch GITD O-ring in there before I put the head back together, it couldn't look nicer and does not stick out at all!
An A2 tailstanding ring is enroute as well, it will fit just fine.

I took a half hour walk with it on high after the tinkering and all is quite well. NOW this is really MY LX2!  Tomorrow I will have to toss a pic up here.


----------



## Sean (Jul 8, 2009)

Size15's said:


> Please can you share where SureFire have stated this. I've seen no such guarantee on any production specifications, literature or other official SureFire publication.


 
Al,
While I understand your concern the box does state: Low-15 lumens, High-200 lumens. Are you suggesting that the clear statements made on the package are no real indicator of the actual performance of the light itself? If they are not to be taken as a guarantee, then what exactly is the point of stating a specific number (as apposed to a range, etc.)?


----------



## cue003 (Jul 8, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> OK I gave up on the LX2 adoration and got back to regular business. Today I cracked into it more than just putting 2 trits into the clip. There is AR on the lens and down in the pocket of the optic. Inside the build looks just the same as any other E series Cree.
> 
> I took off the lanyard ring but it can go back on if I need it, I probably won't.
> I put a stripe of SOLAS reflective tape in the former lanyard ring space, looks nice and is recessed deep enough so nothing will ever bother the tape.
> ...



Looking forward to seeing the pics of your updated LX2.... Sounds interesting...

BTW, how did you recognize the LED was off center? Did you just look into the bezel or was there an indicator by looking at the beam? Both my LX2 appears center when looking down into the head directly at the led....


----------



## Size15's (Jul 8, 2009)

Sean said:


> Al,
> While I understand your concern the box does state: Low-15 lumens, High-200 lumens. Are you suggesting that the clear statements made on the package are no real indicator of the actual performance of the light itself? If they are not to be taken as a guarantee, then what exactly is the point of stating a specific number (as apposed to a range, etc.)?


As with many ratings, they are indications of nominal performance rather than an exact value. There will be variation due to a whole host of factors.
Measuring light output is difficult enough for manufacturers. The rating is not given with the expectation that the customer will be able to measure it either.
Also, the way we see light makes it extremely difficult for us to compare light output even though we tend to believe we can.

Perhaps the most important issue here is that we as Flashaholics place very different expectations and importance on output ratings. We like to have details and specifics and can sometimes forget that companies are not set-up to meet our niche needs/desires.
The difficulty is that some companies do see CPF as a community in which they market their products and will target our wants and expectations. SureFire is a high-profile (and high-interest to us) company that doesn't which leads confusion and sometimes disappointment.

I realised a long time ago that lumen output ratings have little value in the use of the product - the light is either sufficient or too little/ too much and this measure of a flashlight is often difficult to separate from the usefulness of the beam profile.
The product is either suitable for the task, or it isn't. The only real way to know is to try it for yourself.
Sometimes the CPF community does discuss various uses for light rather than concentrate on the light itself. Often other online communities based on activities rather than products being used can be helpful in finding fit-for-purpose tools.

Al


----------



## Moonshadow (Jul 8, 2009)

> The rating is not given with the expectation that the customer will be able to measure it either.


Fair enough, and I don't really disagree with the overall sentiment - but I'm not sure that this argument would hold water with any other product. For example, a customer won't be able to measure miles per gallon on a car under the same conditions as the manufacturer, but we'd still expect the published specs to be accurate and meaningful.

The numbers should allow a meaningful comparison between products, otherwise there's not much point in publishing them in the first place.


----------



## RobertM (Jul 8, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> Well im kinda bummed. I just ordered my light the other day only to get an email letting me know that their stock had run out along with Surefires stock and it will take Surefire 2-3 weeks to get some more out to them. So i should have an LX2 in about a month :sigh:


Well crap! :mecry: I just ordered mine on Monday and got an out-of-stock notice too, but they said they should have more sometime this week (hopefully they really will get some in this week). 


gsxrac said:


> But I can say im extremely happy that the LX2 is EDC style (Low then High)  All my other lights to date are "tactical" Style other than my twisty and let me be the first to say it get's old blowin 200+ lumens in your face off a white wall or snow with night adapted eyes I guess you can say im becoming enlightened.


Even better than being merely a Low/High or High/Low light, it gives you instant access to either level! :twothumbs IMO, this is the very best UI of any flashlight I've ever used (I love it on my Aviators).

-Robert


----------



## foxtrot29 (Jul 8, 2009)

Just got my LX2 in the mail today! YAY!

Great looking light, love the new switch, and lucky me -- perfectly centered LED behind the optic.

It's morning here, so I've only had a chance to do some indoor tests, and unfortunately, I don't have an E2DL to compare to -- which is what everyone seems to be using as the benchmark. 

**I did have a chance to do a whitewall test against the Nitecore Extreme on high (w RCR123), and the LX2 is significantly brighter than the Extreme on high! (Nitecore Extreme is rated at 200 lumens, and AFAIK Nitecore measures OTF?)**

Can't wait until dark! Will try and get some beamshots if I'm not having too much fun...


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 8, 2009)

cue003 said:


> Looking forward to seeing the pics of your updated LX2.... Sounds interesting...
> 
> BTW, how did you recognize the LED was off center? Did you just look into the bezel or was there an indicator by looking at the beam? Both my LX2 appears center when looking down into the head directly at the led....


 The spot on the wall was not perfectly round. There was an odd shaped spill emerging from one side of the hotspot. Looking down the optic things looked lined up but with a TIR is doesn't take much for things to get screwy.

Open the head on both sides by applying heat, remove the screws, mark one of your wires as + or -, unsolder the 2 leads, pop the LED and board from the sink from the back side, add acrtic silver 5 in good amounts after tidying the sink up and then put the board back down with the screws, then solder the wires back. Now you have to put the head top and bottom on and put it back on the body. Turn it on and take a look. From here it's just a process of taking the top of the head off and slightly moving the LED back and forth till you get it right and snugging the screws down. A little time consuming but it pays. Plus this is a great time to swap LED's and add trits or something GITD in the bezel. You could also add stronger LDF between the lens and optic if you'd like.


----------



## youreacrab (Jul 8, 2009)

*Play in the tailcap threads*

When i press the momentary switch i can feel some play in the tailcap threads. Any proven way of fixing this? Anyone try a larger o-ring or teflon tape on the threads? Don't want to make it much harder to turn, but would like to firm up the action a bit. Thanks.


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 8, 2009)

Teflon tape has always worked in the past as long as you don't cover the very end of the tube. I will go check now for you just to be sure.


----------



## 270winchester (Jul 8, 2009)

foxtrot29 said:


> **I did have a chance to do a whitewall test against the Nitecore Extreme on high (w RCR123), and the LX2 is significantly brighter than the Extreme on high! (Nitecore Extreme is rated at 200 lumens, and AFAIK Nitecore measures OTF?)**



the Nightcore is a one cell light, no?

If they can get regulated 200 lumens OTF one primary cell, that would be something. Remember many import lights claim "225 lumens extreme tactical!!!!" when they are only putting out 90-150. 

Ah the wonders of marketing.


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: Play in the tailcap threads*



youreacrab said:


> When i press the momentary switch i can feel some play in the tailcap threads. Any proven way of fixing this? Anyone try a larger o-ring or teflon tape on the threads? Don't want to make it much harder to turn, but would like to firm up the action a bit. Thanks.


 OK tried it and it works just fine. Made my action really stiff but then again mine does not have any thread play.

Go for it. :thumbsup:


----------



## foxtrot29 (Jul 8, 2009)

270winchester said:


> the Nightcore is a one cell light, no?
> 
> If they can get regulated 200 lumens OTF one primary cell, that would be something. Remember many import lights claim "225 lumens extreme tactical!!!!" when they are only putting out 90-150.
> 
> Ah the wonders of marketing.



It is indeed a 1 cell light, (was running it with an RCR123 though), but the Nitecore Extreme I believe has been tested OTF outputting a true 200+ lumens. In addition it gets rather hot if you leave it on too long. Also, I don't think the runtime is over one hour with a primary, as the LX2 is 2 hours. Comparison only for lumen check! lol


----------



## 270winchester (Jul 8, 2009)

foxtrot29 said:


> It is indeed a 1 cell light, *(was running it with an RCR123 though)*, but the Nitecore Extreme I believe has been tested OTF outputting a true 200+ lumens.



fair enough. how does it do with primary cell then?


----------



## foxtrot29 (Jul 8, 2009)

270winchester said:


> fair enough. how does it do with primary cell then?



It was the extreme I was running with the RCR123, the LX2 w primaries. I believe according to Nitecore, the extreme drops to 190lumens on a primary, but the runtime goes up to 75 minutes. 

I don't think the LX2 will run on RCR's... at least i'm not brave enough to try it!


----------



## Zeruel (Jul 8, 2009)

foxtrot29 said:


> I don't think the LX2 will run on RCR's... at least i'm not brave enough to try it!



If E2DL can take RCR, I don't see why not for LX2. Do it! :devil:


----------



## foxtrot29 (Jul 8, 2009)

Zeruel said:


> If E2DL can take RCR, I don't see why not for LX2. Do it! :devil:




No. :laughing:

lol... I'm quite happy running the primaries! Screw the environment! Besides, I've got about 25-30 of them sitting around now, and Batterystation is just a click away!


----------



## SuperLightMan (Jul 8, 2009)

Sean said:


> Here's a picture of how and where my LX2 clip rubs on the tailcap:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Try this. This is what i did on my Eagletac. I simply took a wire (gotta estimate the diameter in relation to the clip width) and gutted the interior. I then slid the rubber piece to where the clip hits against the light. Hope this helps.


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 8, 2009)




----------



## Robert_M (Jul 8, 2009)

SuperLightMan said:


> Try this. This is what i did on my Eagletac. I simply took a wire (gotta estimate the diameter in relation to the clip width) and gutted the interior. I then slid the rubber piece to where the clip hits against the light. Hope this helps.


 
Thanks SuperLightMan! This is brilliant in its simplicity! I'll try this on my LX2! :twothumbs


----------



## Blindasabat (Jul 8, 2009)

MPG of cars is not gauranteed. A gaurantee means you can return it for not meeting a spec, while stated MPG or lumens is only an indication to be used to compare to other products tested the same way. i.e. by the same manufacturer or rating agency (such as the EPA for US MPG). 
Can I return the 1000L light I bought on eBay because it is only 150L?? No. (I bought no such light, btw) Those are the people mis-stating their numbers and making it harder to compare stated specs, not SureFire. SureFire is doing the right thing, Most others are doing the wrong thing.


Moonshadow said:


> ...I'm not sure that this argument would hold water with any other product. For example, a customer won't be able to measure miles per gallon on a car under the same conditions as the manufacturer, but we'd still expect the published specs to be accurate and meaningful.
> 
> The numbers should allow a meaningful comparison between products, otherwise there's not much point in publishing them in the first place.


----------



## KDOG3 (Jul 8, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


>


 

NICE! Where did you put the glo goo on the inside? Is that SOLAS tape in the lanyard groove?


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 8, 2009)

The glow stuff is surrounding the emitter and goes from one side of the heatsink cup to the other. The neat narrow ring effect is because just the very edge of the optic around the emitter transmits the light straight forward. In the dark you can still detect some glow 12 hours after the light was last used!
Yes that reflective tape is SOLAS, it was given to me by member AngelofWar.
I might add that the Holster is by member Hogokansatsukan and was actually for an A2 but I wet molded it to the LX2.


----------



## Numbers (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: Play in the tailcap threads*



youreacrab said:


> When i press the momentary switch i can feel some play in the tailcap threads. Any proven way of fixing this? Anyone try a larger o-ring or teflon tape on the threads? Don't want to make it much harder to turn, but would like to firm up the action a bit. Thanks.



My L1 is exactly the same. After I bought it SF sent me a replacement switch, the result was the same. I am going to try teflon tape right now. I never saw this (non) "problem" posted before. FWW After all of these months I now know that mine is not the only one.


----------



## Numbers (Jul 8, 2009)

For me three turns of teflon help, but it's still not perfect. No matter, I have learned to ignore it.


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 8, 2009)

SGT that light is probably THE best looking light ive ever seen since I joined CPF. From the Solar to the trits to the GITD behind the LED/TIR. Just a great looking light. You MIGHT have a PM incoming. 

DOH! Just noticed the GITD O-ring in the head. Just when I thought it couldnt look any better?


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 8, 2009)

Thanks! I am glad you like it. :thumbsup:

I enjoy doing the minor mods!


----------



## Palestofwhite (Jul 8, 2009)

Hello everyone, just my luck I guess. SF never replies to any of my mails, even those I posted afew months back. I'm going to take things in my own hands and slowly give up on them.

Will any kind soul who knows how to open the head of the LX2 up please give me some advice as to how I should go about doing it? I'll need to do that to remove the optics for cleaning... it's just too dirty and there are some stains which irritates me badly. I'll just tell myself the minor nicks on the body is fine... But I'm not surviving on dirty optics. My other SF lights never had such problems out of the box.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 8, 2009)

PM on the way!


----------



## Numbers (Jul 8, 2009)

Palestofwhite said:


> Hello everyone, just my luck I guess. SF never replies to any of my mails, even those I posted afew months back. I'm going to take things in my own hands and slowly give up on them.
> 
> Will any kind soul who knows how to open the head of the LX2 up please give me some advice as to how I should go about doing it? I'll need to do that to remove the optics for cleaning... it's just too dirty and there are some stains which irritates me badly. I'll just tell myself the minor nicks on the body is fine... But I'm not surviving on dirty optics. My other SF lights never had such problems out of the box.
> 
> Thanks in advance!



Forget the e-mails, CALL them. They have always been responsive when I needed help although a follow up call was occasionally necessary.


----------



## jp2515 (Jul 8, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> OK I gave up on the LX2 adoration and got back to regular business. Today I cracked into it more than just putting 2 trits into the clip. There is AR on the lens and down in the pocket of the optic. Inside the build looks just the same as any other E series Cree.
> 
> I took off the lanyard ring but it can go back on if I need it, I probably won't.
> I put a stripe of SOLAS reflective tape in the former lanyard ring space, looks nice and is recessed deep enough so nothing will ever bother the tape.
> ...



Sgt. LED custom mod shop! :thumbsup:  Taking any orders right now?


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 8, 2009)

I can do it. 
You supply the bits and I'll get them in there! :twothumbs But anyone can do the stuff I do.

Really these E series are cake to work on once you get over the fear of hurting a pricy piece. Sometimes you just have to break stuff so you can learn. I learned what I know by breaking my old stuff and thru CPF getting it to work again.


----------



## matt0 (Jul 8, 2009)

Sarge, how long does the glowring keep glowing?


----------



## foxtrot29 (Jul 8, 2009)

Some LX2 beamshots from tonight... The pictures of the sheds are from approx. 120 feet away, and my house is enveloped in pretty much complete darkness, as we have no street lighting out here!


Control Shot:






LX2 Low:





LX2 High:





LX2 High (Nearby Tree, u/k distance, maybe 30 feet?):






People have mentioned about how the LX2 seems to be one big hot spot, but I've noticed that outdoors there seems to be a very decent amount of spill. I'll use this light to clear a building any day.

That's all I've got! Enjoy!


----------



## youreacrab (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: Play in the tailcap threads*



Numbers said:


> My L1 is exactly the same. After I bought it SF sent me a replacement switch, the result was the same. I am going to try teflon tape right now. I never saw this (non) "problem" posted before. FWW After all of these months I now know that mine is not the only one.



my l1 did it too. and a g2. interestingly, my g2z does not. i suspect its common, not a big deal so people don't report it.


----------



## CandlePowerForumsUser (Jul 8, 2009)

foxtrot29 said:


> People have mentioned about how the LX2 seems to be one big hot spot, but I've noticed that outdoors there seems to be a very decent amount of spill. I'll use this light to clear a building any day.
> 
> That's all I've got! Enjoy!




Yep, the new TIR does have a useful spill. Thanks for the pics!:twothumbs


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 9, 2009)

matt0 said:


> Sarge, how long does the glowring keep glowing?


I can still easily see glow 8 hours later. I can tell it's glowing 12 hours later too if I find a dark spot to check it.

It might go even longer but as long as the glow lasts till morning that's really all you need.

My next experiment is to place a tiny mirror around the LED to see how many more lumens can get out the front!


----------



## jp2515 (Jul 9, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> I can still easily see glow 8 hours later. I can tell it's glowing 12 hours later too if I find a dark spot to check it.
> 
> It might go even longer but as long as the glow lasts till morning that's really all you need.
> 
> My next experiment is to place a tiny mirror around the LED to see how many more lumens can get out the front!



Ooh Nice!  More throw!


----------



## seattlite (Jul 9, 2009)

Just got my LX2. I also have a one stage E2DL head and a KX2C. I took some unscientific, lightmeter, homemade light box readings and the lights are ranked as follows for brightness:
LX2>KX2C>E2DL.

The KX2C and the E2DL were running 2x3.7 V RCR123's and the LX2 was powered by the stock SF primaries.

THEN, I powered the LX2 head with 2x3.7V RCR123's ....... no smoke, but MUCH brighter.....like an unscientific, quantitative measurement of 20% brighter than on primaries. Maybe running in DD?

I played lego, and I prefer the LX2 head on a VG FB2 body and my MJP 15-3 head(KL4-Ostar) on the LX2 body. The high setting from the 6 die Ostar and the low from the LX2 tailcap makes for a pretty cool combination.


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 9, 2009)

seattlite said:


> THEN, I powered the LX2 head with 2x3.7V RCR123's ....... no smoke, but MUCH brighter.....like an unscientific, quantitative measurement of 20% brighter than on primaries. Maybe running in DD?




Oooohhhhhh Ahhhhhhhh  Do you plan to run RCR's as your primary batt in your LX2? If so will you keep us updated on how well it holds up?


----------



## Kestrel (Jul 9, 2009)

seattlite said:


> I powered the LX2 head with 2x3.7V RCR123's ....... no smoke, but MUCH brighter.....like an unscientific, quantitative measurement of 20% brighter than on primaries. Maybe running in DD?





gsxrac said:


> Oooohhhhhh Ahhhhhhhh Do you plan to run RCR's as your primary batt in your LX2? If so will you keep us updated on how well it holds up?


+1.:thumbsup:

Idle thought:

LX2 head + older (& longer) L2 body, bored out & bored through + 2x17500
= high output, high runtime LiIon SureFire goodness.:huh:
(Not bothering to check earlier posts to see if the new body is dumb so as to permit this mod, I can dream, can't I?)


----------



## cue003 (Jul 9, 2009)

seattlite said:


> Just got my LX2. I also have a one stage E2DL head and a KX2C. I took some unscientific, lightmeter, homemade light box readings and the lights are ranked as follows for brightness:
> LX2>KX2C>E2DL.
> 
> The KX2C and the E2DL were running 2x3.7 V RCR123's and the LX2 was powered by the stock SF primaries.
> ...



The LX2 on the VG FB2 body will be a "on high" clicky light only right? No low? No twisting? right?

Also curious to know if that 2xRCR123 is in Direct Drive and what the runtime is.

Thanks

Curtis


----------



## seattlite (Jul 9, 2009)

cue003 said:


> The LX2 on the VG FB2 body will be a "on high" clicky light only right? No low? No twisting? right?
> 
> Also curious to know if that 2xRCR123 is in Direct Drive and what the runtime is.
> 
> ...



Yup...just clicky high on the FB2 body.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Jul 9, 2009)

Wow, looking foward to hearing R123x2 results!!!


----------



## IMTRBO (Jul 9, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> Oooohhhhhh Ahhhhhhhh  Do you plan to run RCR's as your primary batt in your LX2? If so will you keep us updated on how well it holds up?



I seriously love my LX2, and if I could run it with RCR's, it will definitely be my ultimate light!!


----------



## CandlePowerForumsUser (Jul 9, 2009)

IMTRBO said:


> I seriously love my LX2, and if I could run it with RCR's, it will definitely be my ultimate light!!



AW RCR123 works for me.


----------



## subiedriver1990 (Jul 9, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> I can still easily see glow 8 hours later. I can tell it's glowing 12 hours later too if I find a dark spot to check it.
> 
> It might go even longer but as long as the glow lasts till morning that's really all you need.
> 
> My next experiment is to place a tiny mirror around the LED to see how many more lumens can get out the front!



Where can you buy the GITD rings at? :thinking:


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 9, 2009)

I make them.

They are Devcon 2-Ton epoxy and V10 glow powder from GlowInc.


----------



## SCblur (Jul 10, 2009)

Just got mine in the mail yesterday. Bright. I don't have an E2DL to compare to, but it easily smokes my U2. I love the throw of the TIR, but the beam isn't the prettiest. I'm considering getting a second LX2 and putting a reflector in it. Does anybody know of any reflectors that would fit good in that head as an easy swap (I'm no mod expert), and would preserve some decent throw. Also, would I have to insulate the back of the reflector (nearest the LED) with an o-ring to keep it from shorting out any electronics? 

Would a reflector mod be as simple as unscrewing the head, and swapping out the TIR optic, or are there other steps involved?

Thanks for the help.


----------



## youreacrab (Jul 10, 2009)

SCblur said:


> Just got mine in the mail yesterday. Bright. I don't have an E2DL to compare to, but it easily smokes my U2. I love the throw of the TIR, but the beam isn't the prettiest. I'm considering getting a second LX2 and putting a reflector in it. Does anybody know of any reflectors that would fit good in that head as an easy swap (I'm no mod expert), and would preserve some decent throw. Also, would I have to insulate the back of the reflector (nearest the LED) with an o-ring to keep it from shorting out any electronics?
> 
> Would a reflector mod be as simple as unscrewing the head, and swapping out the TIR optic, or are there other steps involved?
> 
> Thanks for the help.



Good Q. +1. Thoughts?


----------



## Kiessling (Jul 10, 2009)

Got mine yesterday. I am a happy camper. This one is the perfect TIR 2x123 light. Just right. Just cool. A home run. 

The wonderful TIR beam, the perfect UI, 2 simple modes, and the power of a 2x123 light.   

I am curious about how it will compare to the A2L.

bernie


----------



## henry1960 (Jul 10, 2009)

Kiessling said:


> Got mine yesterday. I am a happy camper. This one is the perfect TIR 2x123 light. Just right. Just cool. A home run.
> 
> The wonderful TIR beam, the perfect UI, 2 simple modes, and the power of a 2x123 light.
> 
> ...




What Are The Specs On The A2L? :thinking:


----------



## Kiessling (Jul 10, 2009)

I don't care about the specs. I am interested in the beam distribution. There are two main questions ... the floodiness of the 3mm LEDs and the beam concentration of the Seoul. This will be the deciding factor as the TIR is hard to beat.

bernie


----------



## henry1960 (Jul 10, 2009)

Kiessling said:


> I don't care about the specs. I am interested in the beam distribution. There are two main questions ... the floodiness of the 3mm LEDs and the beam concentration of the Seoul. This will be the deciding factor as the TIR is hard to beat.
> 
> bernie




I`m Also Interested In Beam Distribution But Knowing The Specs Would Be One Of My Main Concerns.


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 10, 2009)

Can someone explain this......Surefire has *POSSIBLY * CHANGED THE LUMEN RATING OF THE LX2 TO 120 LUMENS ON HIGH AND 15 LUMENS ON LOW!!! on thier interactive lx2 demo page (where the flashlight spins around showing all of the features) it now says 120 lumens!!!! whats going on? is it possible the current batch of lights is different than the first ones produced?:sick2::thumbsdow


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 10, 2009)

the "vital stats" on the interactive page and the stats on the regular LX2 page still say 200 lumens though....


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 10, 2009)

They better not! I ordered a 200lm light I damn well better get a 200lm light! I know my light will be from the second (newest) batch since they ran out before mine shipped so I guess we will see If its 120 that puppy is goin back.


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 10, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> They better not! I ordered a 200lm light I damn well better get a 200lm light! I know my light will be from the second (newest) batch since they ran out before mine shipped so I guess we will see If its 120 that puppy is goin back.


 



I couldnt have said it any better than that!! you are so right...i ordered a 200 lumen light and thats what i want...i dont need another 120 lumen light!:scowl:


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 10, 2009)

You know i dont wanna jump to any conclusions but you can never really trust SF's claims in cases like that because they tend to be inaccurate or sloppy about stuff like that......maybe its a mistake though...we will see...:ironic:


----------



## KDOG3 (Jul 10, 2009)

Ugh. If this is true then that ain't cool. They should give people rebates or something who bought their light under the 200 lumen claim...


----------



## Numbers (Jul 11, 2009)

Not that I disagree, were it to be true in the case of SF, but - all except a few other manufacturers would be giving rebates regularly if their output claims were tested against reality.


----------



## UnderTheWeepingMoon (Jul 11, 2009)

I think that the interactive page of SF's site has always rated the LX2 at 120L. I don't think that it's a recent change. I think this was mentioned in part 1 of this thread. I can't understand everyone's fixation on lumen ratings though. By all accounts, the light is scorchingly bright, has a great beam and good runtime - what's there to complain about?


----------



## KDOG3 (Jul 11, 2009)

UnderTheWeepingMoon said:


> I think that the interactive page of SF's site has always rated the LX2 at 120L. I don't think that it's a recent change. I think this was mentioned in part 1 of this thread. I can't understand everyone's fixation on lumen ratings though. By all accounts, the light is scorchingly bright, has a great beam and good runtime - what's there to complain about?


 

Well yes it has a nice beam and all but the point is alot of us purchased this light based on the 200 lumen high out put rating. If thats' not what it really is, then we didn't get what we paid for. I have an idea, since 120 lumens is 80 lumens less than 200, maybe the people who bought it already should get a free LX1 to make up the difference! LOL! I'm only semi-kidding about that. But seriously if they drop their rating a whopping 40% like that after a bunch of people bought it, then they need to do something....


----------



## iapyx (Jul 11, 2009)

KDOG3 said:


> Well yes it has a nice beam and all but the point is alot of us purchased this light based on the 200 lumen high out put rating. If thats' not what it really is, then we didn't get what we paid for. I have an idea, since 120 lumens is 80 lumens less than 200, maybe the people who bought it already should get a free LX1 to make up the difference! LOL! I'm only semi-kidding about that. But seriously if they drop their rating a whopping 40% like that after a bunch of people bought it, then they need to do something....


 

.. but what about the tests results? I read some test saying it's slightly over 200 lumen. And on the box it says 200 lumen. I don't think SF will produce a 200 lumen LX2 in the first round and a 120 lumen LX2 in the next round. Rumours. Let's say something when someone actually shows up with a LX2 which produces only 120 lumen. Then we can start talking.


----------



## matt0 (Jul 11, 2009)

I'm not sure what you guys are saying about dropping the rating. The light was planned to be 120L and I'm sure they found that enough of them were bright enough that they could legitimately rate it higher. The ratings on their website have been the exact same since they were put up in June. The product page said "6 times the output of a 2-d cell light" (120) but the specs on the far right listed it at 200. The Interactive demo lists 200 and 120 in different places.

There was quite a bit of discussion about this in the first part of this thread. Nobody was sure if SureFire had a new way of rating their light or if or if it was a typo. Once the reviews started coming in and people were saying it was brighter than their "200lumen" E2DL (ONE was measured above that, not EVERY ONE) everyone seemed to relax a little bit.

There's another thread with a poll in it regarding E2DL and LX2's max output. I haven't checked it lately but I think everyone that responded said their LX2 was brighter than their E2DL


----------



## henry1960 (Jul 11, 2009)

matt0 said:


> I'm not sure what you guys are saying about dropping the rating. The light was planned to be 120L and I'm sure they found that enough of them were bright enough that they could legitimately rate it higher. The ratings on their website have been the exact same since they were put up in June. The product page said "6 times the output of a 2-d cell light" (120) but the specs on the far right listed it at 200. The Interactive demo lists 200 and 120 in different places.
> 
> There was quite a bit of discussion about this in the first part of this thread. Nobody was sure if SureFire had a new way of rating their light or if or if it was a typo. Once the reviews started coming in and people were saying it was brighter than their "200lumen" E2DL (ONE was measured above that, not EVERY ONE) everyone seemed to relax a little bit.
> 
> There's another thread with a poll in it regarding E2DL and LX2's max output. I haven't checked it lately but I think everyone that responded said their LX2 was brighter than their E2DL







This is true; The LX2 is a bit britter then my E2DL.....


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Jul 11, 2009)

No way in H E double hockey sticks my LX2 is 120 lumens. It smokes everything I have in the Two cell single die format. I would be willing to say its over 200 lumens, maybe 230-240. :naughty:

Also, the virtual _thinga ma bob _has always said 120L, the vital stats, and the box to the light its self says 200L.

So dont freak, just buy one and enjoy the light! :twothumbs

Oh, and by now I totally take everything back I said about the pocket clip, I love it.


----------



## Robert_M (Jul 11, 2009)

I received my light from Battery Junction on July 1st, so mine is from the "first" batch.

Here are my light box numbers in Foot Candles after running for 5 seconds and 1 minute, respectively, for four of my flashlights (unfortunately I don't own an E2DL):

Surefire LX2 (rated at 200 Lumens): 936, 920 (Surefire primaries that came with it, 3.21V each)
Fenix PD30 (rated at 220 Lumens): 826, 816 (new Titanium primaries, 3.28V each)
Malkoff MD2-M60 (rated at approx 235+ Lumens on website): 843, 803 (new Titanium primaries, 3.27 each)
Malkoff MD2-M30 (rated at approx 235+ Lumens on website): 980, 945 (one AW 18650, 2200mAh, 4.17V)

So I believe that my LX2 is above 200 Lumens and would not hesitate to buy one from the "second" batch. I don't think Surefire would reduce the output in the LX2 since it is claimed to be 200 Lumens on their "Flashlights" page of their website and on the box itself. Surefire has a well established history of UNDER rating their Lumen capabilities, and that seems to be the case with my LX2. This is just my opinion.

Usual disclaimer, I used a light box not an Integrating Sphere, my flashlights may perform differently than others, etc.


----------



## seattlite (Jul 11, 2009)

seattlite said:


> ...
> THEN, I powered the LX2 head with 2x3.7V RCR123's ....... no smoke, but MUCH brighter.....like an unscientific, quantitative measurement of 20% brighter than on primaries. Maybe running in DD?
> ...



I'm on my SECOND charge cycle on my generic(light blue, lighthound purchased) 3.7V(4.2V off the charger) RCR123's and still no smoke and still wicked bright.



Robert_M said:


> I received my light from Battery Junction on July 1st, so mine is from the "first" batch.
> ...
> 
> So I believe that my LX2 is above 200 Lumens and would not hesitate to buy one from the "second" batch. I don't think Surefire would reduce the output in the LX2 since it is claimed to be 200 Lumens on their "Flashlights" page of their website and on the box itself. Surefire has a well established history of UNDER rating their Lumen capabilities, and that seems to be the case with my LX2. This is just my opinion.
> ...



Can anyone confirm that SF modified their LX2 packaging to 120L?


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 11, 2009)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> No way in H E double hockey sticks my LX2 is 120 lumens. It smokes everything I have in the Two cell single die format. I would be willing to say its over 200 lumens, maybe 230-240. :naughty:
> 
> Also, the virtual _thinga ma bob _has always said 120L, the vital stats, and the box to the light its self says 200L.
> 
> ...


 


yes...BUT the virtual thing USED to say "ten times the light of a typical 2-d-cell flashlight...(which is what convinced me of the 200 lm claim) now it says "six times the light..." in the same place, here is where the problem is :shakehead


----------



## Mikey V (Jul 11, 2009)

Scotty007 said:


> yes...BUT the virtual thing USED to say "ten times the light of a typical 2-d-cell flashlight...(which is what convinced me of the 200 lm claim) now it says "six times the light..." in the same place, here is where the problem is :shakehead


 
Stop worrying over what the self-conflicted web site says. The BOX says 200 lumen, and every light reported has easily smoked other 200 lumen lights. It is easily in the 230-250 lumen class.


----------



## iapyx (Jul 11, 2009)

Mikey V said:


> Stop worrying over what the self-conflicted web site says. The BOX says 200 lumen, and every light reported has easily smoked other 200 lumen lights. It is easily in the 230-250 lumen class.


 

+1


----------



## Kiessling (Jul 11, 2009)

I think it is sad to see that this thread goes on for pages about a lumen rating that is of no real importance. We have tons of info from our members about how the light performs. There are a lot if things that are way more important than a number. Why are we discussing this irrelevant detail?
bernie


----------



## sbebenelli (Jul 11, 2009)

I've switched to single cell lights and that's all I own. I'm waiting for the LX1 yet I'm really having a hard time not buying this light. Not sure why though.


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 11, 2009)

Kiessling said:


> I think it is sad to see that this thread goes on for pages about a lumen rating that is of no real importance. We have tons of info from our members about how the light performs. There are a lot if things that are way more important than a number. Why are we discussing this irrelevant detail?
> bernie



Hey Bernie I dont think anyone's saying that the lights already in CPF'ers hands arent 200lm just wondering if the second batch will be 200 or 120 lumens. If I get my light and the box says 200 I will believe it without a doubt (unless I turn it on and my 4D mag is brighter  ) but if I get it and the new box's claim 120 then I will be sceptical.

Ohh yea hadnt mentioned this on CPF yet but I have a dual mode E2DL that seems to be either equally bright or DIMMER than my Ra Clicky 140CT on burst   :tinfoil: But none-the-less I wont be testing my LX2's output against that one. Maybe against a Malkoff module?


----------



## KDOG3 (Jul 11, 2009)

Kiessling said:


> I think it is sad to see that this thread goes on for pages about a lumen rating that is of no real importance. We have tons of info from our members about how the light performs. There are a lot if things that are way more important than a number. Why are we discussing this irrelevant detail?
> bernie


 

I respectfully disagree that its' irrelevant. Some of the people bought this light based on the impressive 200 lumen high output. Let me illustrate:

You buy a car because one of the features it has that you like is that it has 350 hp. It rides ok and all, but a month later the manufacurer decides their hp claim was *40% *too high and they should lower it to 210. Should you be satisfied with that? You're telling me you wouldn't be the least bit upset about that whopping 40% reduction in hp claim AFTER you bought the car?

Now some may say that I'm comparing apples to oranges here but I don't think so - the PRINCIPLE is what I'm getting at.

And of course let me state that as Bernie pointed out, many people have posted their experience here and seem to be saying their LX2 is plenty bright. But I hope you understand what I'm getting at....


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 11, 2009)

And come to think of it I do remember earlier in the first part of the thread where a couple people mentioned the 120lm on the interactive advert. So that being said im pretty confident that my light will arrive (eventually) with 200lm printed on the box =)

Back to your regularly scheduled LX2 discussion... Anybody hear about the _*clip break!?*_:sick2:


----------



## Size15's (Jul 11, 2009)

I don't suppose anybody who is interested in whether SureFire has made a change to their new LX2 has actually tried to contact SureFire to find out?
I mean there was a song and dance about SureFire's website containing discrepancies in the output rating as soon as SureFire put their LX2 pages and interactive media online.
Now there is a song and dance about SureFire's website containing discrepancies in the output rating.

Seems to me that people enjoy singing and dancing...


----------



## KDOG3 (Jul 11, 2009)

Size15's said:


> I don't suppose anybody who is interested in whether SureFire has made a change to their new LX2 has actually tried to contact SureFire to find out?
> I mean there was a song and dance about SureFire's website containing discrepancies in the output rating as soon as SureFire put their LX2 pages and interactive media online.
> Now there is a song and dance about SureFire's website containing discrepancies in the output rating.
> 
> Seems to me that people enjoy singing and dancing...


 

Heh, heh....point taken. I'll ask them when I email them about my clip breaking....


----------



## StandardBattery (Jul 11, 2009)

Size15's said:


> *....*
> Seems to me that people enjoy singing and dancing...


 
Everyone likes a party! As the dudes say... *Party On!*



ps... why don't we complain about the fact that the first batch is already gone, and it's going to take weeks, maybe *"months"* before the second batch makes it to dealers. Maybe that would be a Party Pooper! :laughing:


----------



## seattlite (Jul 12, 2009)

sbebenelli said:


> I've switched to single cell lights and that's all I own. I'm waiting for the LX1 yet I'm really having a hard time not buying this light. Not sure why though.



Maybe its because its E-series compatible and there are LOTS of 1-cell E-series bodies out there. I just put the LX2 head on a VG FB1 with a 3.7V RCR123. Output is a little less than that of my E2DL.


----------



## Monocrom (Jul 12, 2009)

KDOG3 said:


> Heh, heh....point taken. I'll ask them when I email them about my clip breaking....


 
*NO!*

Call them. Call them on the phone. Surefire responds to emails about as well as children respond to vegetables.

email = vegetables

phone call = chocolate icecream

You want a fast response from Surefire, pick up the phone.


----------



## prime77 (Jul 13, 2009)

There is a member on another forum that works for SF and was asked a question about the conflicting output numbers. He stated that the 120 lumen number came from early prototypes at the time of the catalog being published but when the pre-production LX2's were tested with the latest boards and emitters, the SF engineers found that the lights were getting better than expected performance. Here is the link to that post. You have to be a member of the forum to view it. http://usualsuspect.net/forums/showthread.php?t=419162&page=2 
(Moderators if I am not allowed to link to other forums I will remove link)


----------



## leon2245 (Jul 13, 2009)

Kiessling said:


> I think it is sad to see that this thread goes on for pages about a lumen rating that is of no real importance. We have tons of info from our members about how the light performs. There are a lot if things that are way more important than a number. Why are we discussing this irrelevant detail?
> bernie


 
It is funny. I get the feeling that for some, the printed rating on the box is more important than the actual performance. Would you rather have a box that states 120L & actually tests 200L, or a box that states 200L & tests any amount lower, say 190L even? I bet there are some who would take the latter, maybe they are collectors who want to display in their boxes & bragging rights or something.

B.T.W. someone asked, but I.D.K. if I've seen an answer regarding putting a reflector in the LX2? That would not be a simple task anyway, would it?


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 13, 2009)

McR19XR works. Best fit is if you can shorten the reflector 1 to 2mm, this removes the bezel gap. Not difficult if you don't mind the gap. Just open it up and take out the optic and put in the reflector.

Now on the lumen count: My LX2 is brighter than my Malkoff M60. It's pretty easy to see that it's brighter so I haven't really given it any more thought!


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 13, 2009)

prime77 said:


> There is a member on another forum that works for SF and was asked a question about the conflicting output numbers. He stated that the 120 lumen number came from early prototypes at the time of the catalog being published but when the pre-production LX2's were tested with the latest boards and emitters, the SF engineers found that the lights were getting better than expected performance. Here is the link to that post. You have to be a member of the forum to view it. http://usualsuspect.net/forums/showthread.php?t=419162&page=2
> (Moderators if I am not allowed to link to other forums I will remove link)


 

So if this is the case, and i DO believe it is because i heard something similar a few days ago, then why would SF not change the website to be accurate? i mean they are no small operation and this obviously causes a lot of confusion as you can see by this ongoing thread....it would be so much nicer to be CONSISTENT especially for a company whos products many professionals trust thier lives with...so the question is....WHY DONT THEY JUST ACCURATELY UPDATE THE WEBSITE SO ALL LX2 PAGES SAY THE CORRECT OUTPUT? :thinking: maybe that would be TOO easy :laughing:


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 13, 2009)

I guess they are selling so fast that SF figures it must not be a problem. LOL!!


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 13, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> I guess they are selling so fast that SF figures it must not be a problem. LOL!!


 


that could be...i guess they are just not worried about it considering as you said, how fast they are selling....im still waiting for mine on backorder!:thumbsdow


----------



## henry1960 (Jul 13, 2009)

Scotty007 said:


> So if this is the case, and i DO believe it is because i heard something similar a few days ago, then why would SF not change the website to be accurate? i mean they are no small operation and this obviously causes a lot of confusion as you can see by this ongoing thread....it would be so much nicer to be CONSISTENT especially for a company whos products many professionals trust thier lives with...so the question is....WHY DONT THEY JUST ACCURATELY UPDATE THE WEBSITE SO ALL LX2 PAGES SAY THE CORRECT OUTPUT? :thinking: maybe that would be TOO easy :laughing:




Who really cares what the box say`s weather it being 120l or 200l. When i took my E2DL light out of the box it read 120l and i was amazed how much britter it was commpared to my other lights and was happier then a pig in ....My lx2 the same way is britter then my E2DL so and reads 200l on box so all is well for me.

Bottom line...Sure fire is no small outfit where they would throw differant numbers around or change production of same modual of light in the middle of all this. So ...If the box or discription say`s 200l you can bet it`s at least that


----------



## iapyx (Jul 13, 2009)

henry1960 said:


> Who really cares what the box say`s weather it being 120l or 200l. When i took my E2DL light out of the box it read 120l and i was amazed how much britter it was commpared to my other lights and was happier then a pig in ....My lx2 the same way is britter then my E2DL so and reads 200l on box so all is well for me.
> 
> Bottom line...Sure fire is no small outfit where they would throw differant numbers around or change production of same modual of light in the middle of all this. So ...If the box or discription say`s 200l you can bet it`s at least that


 
I think many people care. People use it as a reference. If the SF box says 200 lumen then it will be - at least - 200 lumen. That's what a lot of people buy SF for. You know what you will be getting - at least. For most of us: if you buy a 200 lumen light you don't want it to be 120, would you?


----------



## rejeme (Jul 14, 2009)

Does this light have sime type of thermal cut-off built into it? I'm running mine off of RCR123's that put out around 3.5V when fully charged. I tried to run the light on high to observe battery drainage. At around 20 min on high the light flickered then shut off. I thought "I just blew out my $200 flashlight, good thing the wife doesn't know I bought it yet". I picked up the light and it was holdable, but hot. After about 20 seconds of being off, I was able to switch it back on with no ill effect. I did not let it run any longer as a took it apart to inspect. The batts were barely warm and they were still showing around 3.3V. Any thoughts. 

By the way, I find this light much more user friendly than my E2DL. The 15 lumen low is more favorable than 5. I dont really see this light as that much brighter, but the hotspot is larger. I also have grown tired off the teeth both front and in back on the E2DL. I used to like the slimness of the E2DL, but now prefer the addded heft and weight of the LX2. The clip is great and the UI is appreciated as well (low first, high in an an instant if neededed).


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 14, 2009)

I don't know if the light has a high temp shut-off but I have not heard any mention at all that it does. I do know you got some balls.

:welcome:


----------



## johndoeslo (Jul 14, 2009)

@Rejeme:

Surefire lists the LX2 and E2DL as identical weight (3.7 ounces). Does the LX2 feel heavier than the E2DL to you? Do you have a scale to compare them and report back? The power/weight ratio is one reason I am interested in the LX2.

I ask because I have found that manufacturer claims on weight are terribly unreliable and I am very weight sensitive in my EDC. 

Thanks,

John


----------



## black bolt (Jul 14, 2009)

Has anyone been successful in getting a 17 mm cell to fit inside the body of the LX2? :thinking:


----------



## cue003 (Jul 14, 2009)

black bolt said:


> Has anyone been successful in getting a 17 mm cell to fit inside the body of the LX2 body? :thinking:



I don't think so... not yet.


----------



## KDOG3 (Jul 14, 2009)

rejeme said:


> Does this light have sime type of thermal cut-off built into it? I'm running mine off of RCR123's that put out around 3.5V when fully charged. I tried to run the light on high to observe battery drainage. At around 20 min on high the light flickered then shut off. I thought "I just blew out my $200 flashlight, good thing the wife doesn't know I bought it yet". I picked up the light and it was holdable, but hot. After about 20 seconds of being off, I was able to switch it back on with no ill effect. I did not let it run any longer as a took it apart to inspect. The batts were barely warm and they were still showing around 3.3V. Any thoughts.


 

Are you guys sure it can run on 3.7v batts???? You may be overdriving it and thus possibly running the risk of frying this new light! I know from my conversation with a rep from Surefire that the E2DL circuitry was designed for no more than 6.6v. The LX2 could be different but I use the 3.0v LifePo's to be safe!


----------



## seattlite (Jul 14, 2009)

KDOG3 said:


> Are you guys sure it can run on 3.7v batts???? You may be overdriving it and thus possibly running the risk of frying this new light! I know from my conversation with a rep from Surefire that the E2DL circuitry was designed for no more than 6.6v. The LX2 could be different but I use the 3.0v LifePo's to be safe!



I've been running 2 x 3.7V RCR123 in my E2DL and my 2 KX2C heads since I bought them. I think about 2 charging cycles for the E2DL and 4 or 5 charging cycles for my KX2C and they are still as bright as the day I received them.

I'm also on my 2nd charging cycle with my LX2 head. I don't have anything other than 3.7V cells, so that's what I've been using.

If the LX2 head fries....I'll part out the body and use the funds for a new LX2 and some 3.0V RCR123's . I hate using primaries for EDC.


----------



## TBrogden (Jul 14, 2009)

johndoeslo said:


> @Rejeme:
> 
> Surefire lists the LX2 and E2DL as identical weight (3.7 ounces). Does the LX2 feel heavier than the E2DL to you? Do you have a scale to compare them and report back? The power/weight ratio is one reason I am interested in the LX2.
> 
> ...




John,

My E2DL weighs in at 76 grams while my LX2 weighs 86 grams. Both were weighed without batteries or lanyard but with clips.

Regards,

Tony


----------



## johndoeslo (Jul 14, 2009)

Tony,

Thanks for the weight data. It is good to hear measured weights from an owner. Surefire lists them at the same weight and yet the LX2 is 15% heavier!

Best,

John


----------



## cue003 (Jul 14, 2009)

seattlite said:


> I've been running 2 x 3.7V RCR123 in my E2DL and my 2 KX2C heads since I bought them. I think about 2 charging cycles for the E2DL and 4 or 5 charging cycles for my KX2C and they are still as bright as the day I received them.
> 
> I'm also on my 2nd charging cycle with my LX2 head. I don't have anything other than 3.7V cells, so that's what I've been using.
> 
> If the LX2 head fries....I'll part out the body and use the funds for a new LX2 and some 3.0V RCR123's . I hate using primaries for EDC.



Have you done any extended runs on ur 3.7v batts in any of the lights? Especially the lx2? I am curious to see if your light cuts out at 20 min like the other poster. 

Also do you notice it being any brighter on both high AND low?
Thanks

Curtis


----------



## cankster (Jul 14, 2009)

If it matters to anyone I just talked to Surefire technical support about the inconsistencies on their website. He said the LX2's are not changing they will all be a minimum of 200 OTF lumens. 

I recommended that they replace the person in charge of web content. Or at least slap him/her, lol. I told him that I called within 3 days of the light being put up to let them know of the problems and they were not corrected. Then someone made a change in the interactive demo and still did not fix the information. They just called me back as I am writing this and said they are going to fix this information right now. So. Anyway.

Cankster


----------



## dchao (Jul 14, 2009)

seattlite said:


> I've been running 2 x 3.7V RCR123 in my E2DL and my 2 KX2C heads since I bought them.


It's better to use one 17670 cell than 2xRCR123. 

1) it's safer, 

2) you get more run time out of it, 

Capacity 17670 = 1800mAh - 2000mAh

Capacity RCR123 = 500mAh - 700mAh

3) You won't be over driving the converter.

Max voltage 17670 = 4.2V

Max voltage 2xRCR123 = 8.4V


----------



## seattlite (Jul 14, 2009)

dchao said:


> It's better to use one 17670 cell than 2xRCR123.
> 
> 1) it's safer,
> 
> ...



Yeah....I tried powering the E2DL/KX2C/LX2 on 3.7V(4.2 off the charger) .... but it aint that bright compared with 2 cells(primary or rechargeable).


----------



## seattlite (Jul 14, 2009)

cue003 said:


> Have you done any extended runs on ur 3.7v batts in any of the lights? Especially the lx2? I am curious to see if your light cuts out at 20 min like the other poster.
> 
> Also do you notice it being any brighter on both high AND low?
> Thanks
> ...



No extended runs ... regular EDC use. I use it on a VG FB2 body, so I get no low, but when I got the light, I did notice that it was brighter on RCR's than on primaries, thus the comment about the light might be running in DD with the RCR's.


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic (Jul 14, 2009)

seattlite said:


> Yeah....I tried powering the E2DL/KX2C/LX2 on 3.7V(4.2 off the charger) .... but it aint that bright compared with 2 cells(primary or rechargeable).


That's because most tactical lights designed for 2xCR123 primaries need at least 5+ volts in order to reach full brightness. And that ain't happening on a single li-ion battery...


----------



## Kestrel (Jul 14, 2009)

Somebody around here recently posted a runtime graph of the E2DL on 2xCR123 and 1x17670 and compared it to their new LX2 on 2xCR123 and 1x17670. While the E2DL took quite an output hit (~50% IIRC), the LX2 didn't do all that badly, perhaps 3/4 of the 2xCR123 output. I wish I knew where that post was, specific LX2 posts are getting more and more difficult to find.

Edit: Correction, both were tested with 1x14650, but the LX2 had very respectable output, 80+% of 2xCR123 output.


----------



## dchao (Jul 14, 2009)

Kestrel said:


> Somebody around here recently posted a runtime graph of the E2DL on 2xCR123 and 1x17670 and compared it to their new LX2 on 2xCR123 and 1x17670.


I think this is the thread:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3011523

However, the poster were using protected 14650. I am talking about unprotected 17670, which will also fit most SF bodies. Unprotected 17670 has a better performance than 14650, I am using one for my U2 and the light output is almost the same as from a 2xCR123 setup.

NOTES: It's quite safe to use unprotected cell as long as your charger has overcharge protection and you don't run your cell to below 2.75V. A second assurance, the SF converter will usually give up complete at about 2.6V anyway, before too much harm is done to your unprotected cell.


----------



## Kestrel (Jul 14, 2009)

Ah yes, thank you for the correction. With credit to Chao from his (excellent review) thread:







https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3010243&postcount=1

That's a pretty darn good replacement configuration for 2xCR123, 80+% of initial output on 1x14650, and as you say, 1x17670 would be even better, less voltage sag and *45%* more amp-hours than 1x14650. If I had one of these for EDC, I'd get it bored slightly it for 17670 ASAP. :huh:

Thanks for the link,


----------



## SIGconvert (Jul 14, 2009)

I am a little late to the party. I didnt know the LX2 existed until today when I got a email about them. I resisted the temptation for a few hours until I broke down and a made a phone call........


----------



## rcashel11 (Jul 14, 2009)

LX2 specs on website partially corrected. 

http://www.surefire.com/LX2-LumaMax


> The dual-output LX2 features a high-performance LED capable of producing 200 lumens of blinding white light at its high setting (*six* times the output of a typical two-D-cell flashlight) and a useful 15 lumens of light on low


 
The text blurb in the interactive demo still states 120 lumens although the vital stats spec is 200 lumens.


----------



## cankster (Jul 14, 2009)

rcashel11 said:


> LX2 specs on website partially corrected.
> 
> http://www.surefire.com/LX2-LumaMax
> 
> ...



They said they would have it corrected immediately. But it is obvious whomever is in charge of web content does not do a very good job. (Is that ok?) or would "could do a better job." be better and more positive.


----------



## Bullzeyebill (Jul 14, 2009)

cankster said:


> They said they would have it corrected immediately. But it is obvious whomever is in charge of web content is an idiot.



Yeah, sometime I want to say something like that, but I don't. I might think it but I don't say it. Sort of helps make for a polite forum, which I sort of like. Candle Power Forums is about sharing info, and some thoughts too, but disrespectful language belongs on a different forum.

Bill


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 14, 2009)

Bullzeyebill said:


> Yeah, sometime I want to say something like that, but I don't. I might think it but I don't say it. Sort of helps make for a polite forum, which I sort of like. Candle Power Forums is about sharing info, and some thoughts too, but disrespectful language belongs on a different forum.
> 
> Bill


 

Come on now....are we serious....we are all adults here and i dont think that the word IDIOT is really a bad word! This is me expressing my views as i have every right to do...(WHILE HAVING TO EDIT MY POST!!!!) and i guess my comment about SESAME STREET FORUMs was inappropriate...so sorry about that! (is that better DM51?)


----------



## DM51 (Jul 15, 2009)

Bullzeyebill said:


> disrespectful language belongs on a different forum


Correct. 

cankster... please edit your post.


----------



## Ctrain (Jul 15, 2009)

I'm about to go order one of these puppies... Apart from the clip, just by reading the reviews this light seems to be... Dare I say it... PERFECT!


----------



## iapyx (Jul 15, 2009)

cankster said:


> They said they would have it corrected immediately. But it is obvious whomever is in charge of web content is an i***t.


 
It's just a matter of being civilized not using these kind of words.
Read the CPF Rules and FAQs
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/Rules.html#flaming


----------



## DM51 (Jul 15, 2009)

Scotty007 said:


> Come on now....are we serious....we are all adults here and i dont think that the word IDIOT is really a bad word! are you a 2nd grader or something and are offended by the word idiot?? if thats the case then the proper forum for you may be SESAME STREET FORUMS! grow up!


Whether or not a word is acceptable will depend not on the word itself but on the context in which it is used. The use there was rude and disrespectful, which is why I told the poster it needed to edited. 

The same goes for the normally innocuous word "grow". Your use of it in baiting another member and telling him to grow up was also rude and disrespectful, and has come close to earning you a suspension. Please edit your post too.


----------



## cankster (Jul 15, 2009)

Bullzeyebill said:


> Yeah, sometime I want to say something like that, but I don't. I might think it but I don't say it. Sort of helps make for a polite forum, which I sort of like. Candle Power Forums is about sharing info, and some thoughts too, but disrespectful language belongs on a different forum.
> 
> Bill



I will edit my post but you have to be kidding me. Sesame Street is right. Can I call him a doe doe head or is any criticism to offensive for the sensitive CPF Forum members. How about if I say he is "intellectually challenged" or would "Special" be better.

LOL. This country has really gone down hill in the last 30 years. I probably should send myself to a weekend sensitivity training seminar.


----------



## cankster (Jul 15, 2009)

DM51 said:


> Whether or not a word is acceptable will depend not on the word itself but on the context in which it is used. The use there was rude and disrespectful, which is why I told the poster it needed to edited.
> 
> The same goes for the normally innocuous word "grow". Your use of it in baiting another member and telling him to grow up was also rude and disrespectful, and has come close to earning you a suspension. Please edit your post too.



LOL. We can go the weekend sensitivity training course together. I hope we didn't make anyone cry. Or worse yet hurt their feelings.


----------



## cankster (Jul 15, 2009)

Scotty007 said:


> Come on now....are we serious....we are all adults here and i dont think that the word IDIOT is really a bad word! are you a 2nd grader or something and are offended by the word idiot?? if thats the case then the proper forum for you may be SESAME STREET FORUMS! grow up!



When you inferred that Buzzyball should grow up you made him feel inadequate and sad. I hope you are happy now. Look what I started. Now I feel inadequate and sad.


----------



## DM51 (Jul 15, 2009)

cankster... please take a week off and use the time to read Rule 4.


----------



## Ctrain (Jul 15, 2009)

where can i get one of these in the UK????? anyone????lovecpf


----------



## tango44 (Jul 15, 2009)

Mikey V said:


> Stop worrying over what the self-conflicted web site says. The BOX says 200 lumen, and every light reported has easily smoked other 200 lumen lights. It is easily in the 230-250 lumen class.




So why does the PDF catalog in the SF website says 120 Lumens???

Does anyone have compare the LX2 to the Fenix TK10 or TK11?
Beamshots?

Thank you.


----------



## sbebenelli (Jul 15, 2009)

tango44 said:


> So why does the PDF catalog in the SF website says 120 Lumens???
> 
> Thank you.


----------



## Robert_M (Jul 15, 2009)

Deleted.


----------



## Monocrom (Jul 15, 2009)

Ctrain said:


> where can i get one of these in the UK????? anyone????lovecpf


 
Best bet is to check Surefire's website for an Authorized Dealer in the UK. If prices are too expensive, check for Authorized Dealers in Asia. Unlike their American counterparts, Surefire doesn't put restrictions on international shipping on them.

Another idea is to ask a CPFer living in America if they'll purchase the light for you, and ship it to the UK. You'd have to pay for the light, shipping, any taxes and fees... But that option is more about availability than saving money.

Got any friends or relatives who'll be taking a vacation in America in the near future? They can buy the light for you, and just bring it to you when they return.


----------



## DM51 (Jul 15, 2009)

DM51 said:


> cankster... please take a week off and use the time to read Rule 4.


Scotty007... the same goes for you.


----------



## iapyx (Jul 15, 2009)

tango44 said:


> So why does the PDF catalog in the SF website says 120 Lumens???
> 
> Does anyone have compare the LX2 to the Fenix TK10 or TK11?
> Beamshots?
> ...


 

let me help you a bit: your question is what the discussion was about in the previous pages. If you read those back you will see that. 
Shortly:It was 120 lumen on the drawing board but it turned out to be 200 lumen, and it will stay 200 lumen. Where you read 120 lumen it means that it hasn't been updated by SF yet.


----------



## tango44 (Jul 15, 2009)

Thanks for your answer makes it clear for me and now I just have to compare the LX2 with the TK10 or TK11 to decide if I should get a LX2.

Thank you.


----------



## henry1960 (Jul 15, 2009)

tango44 said:


> Thanks for your answer makes it clear for me and now I just have to compare the LX2 with the TK10 or TK11 to decide if I should get a LX2.
> 
> Thank you.



My opinion, LX2 rocks!!!! But just my opinion :twothumbs


----------



## zven (Jul 15, 2009)

tango44 said:


> Does anyone have compare the LX2 to the Fenix TK10 or TK11?
> Beamshots?



I believe what you're looking for can be found in Chao's review of the LX2. Additionally, in Chao's signature you can find a link to beamshots and lux readings of many other lights, in case you wanted to compare those to the LX2 as well.


----------



## tango44 (Jul 16, 2009)

Thanks a lot that´s exactly what I´m looking for.


----------



## KDOG3 (Jul 17, 2009)

Just FYI:

They've corrected the output numbers in the interactive demo, all the stats say 200 lumens now.


----------



## Litbobber (Jul 17, 2009)

KDOG3 said:


> Just FYI:
> 
> They've corrected the output numbers in the interactive demo, all the stats say 200 lumens now.



Great!! I was wondering tho.


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic (Jul 17, 2009)

KDOG3 said:


> Just FYI:
> 
> They've corrected the output numbers in the interactive demo, all the stats say 200 lumens now.


Now just wait till the usual SureFire haters come up with another stupid reason to ***** about the LX2...


----------



## Numbers (Jul 17, 2009)

Not that anyone should even care anymore, but for the record it still says 120lm on item 1 in the interactive demo.


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 17, 2009)

Numbers said:


> Not that anyone should even care anymore, but for the record it still says 120lm on item 1 in the interactive demo.





Shhhhh!!!! Now people are going to think its 120lm since it only says 200lm in ten other places. Doh!


----------



## youreacrab (Jul 17, 2009)

the specs haven't changed, there's nothing to worry about. the specs haven't changed, there's nothing to worry about.


----------



## Numbers (Jul 17, 2009)

youreacrab said:


> the specs haven't changed, there's nothing to worry about. the specs haven't changed, there's nothing to worry about.



You dont mean me. I havent cared what the label was from the beginning, and said so a while back. 
Bright as E2DL is good enough for me to know what is coming out the front. The whole discussion has in fact, for me, been quite unnecessary. Except - that sometimes I think SF must be publishing conflicting data to keep the conversation going. They cant be that careless or sloppy by accident. I couldn't get away with that where I work. Maybe though, they only pay attention to detail when it really counts.


----------



## SIGconvert (Jul 17, 2009)

SIGconvert said:


> I am a little late to the party. I didnt know the LX2 existed until today when I got a email about them. I resisted the temptation for a few hours until I broke down and a made a phone call........


 
It showed up 3 days later. I cant wait for it to get dark out, I already blinded myself with it in a pitch black interior room. So far I have only compared it to my L1 or E1B. When it finally gets dark I will put it up against a 6P, a G2 with P61, G2L as well as the two newer gen 1 cell lights mentioned above outside.


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 17, 2009)

tango44 said:


> Thanks for your answer makes it clear for me and now I just have to compare the LX2 with the TK10 or TK11 to decide if I should get a LX2.
> 
> Thank you.



I did some beamshots with the tk11 and LX2 here if your interested


----------



## Kid9P (Jul 17, 2009)

SIGconvert said:


> It showed up 3 days later. I cant wait for it to get dark out, I already blinded myself with it in a pitch black interior room. So far I have only compared it to my L1 or E1B. When it finally gets dark I will put it up against a 6P, a G2 with P61, G2L as well as the two newer gen 1 cell lights mentioned above outside.


 
How's the condition of your light? When I got mine a few weeks ago, there were about 3 tiny spots with missing anno. One on the head, body and tailcap.

Just wondering if things cleaned up since then.


----------



## SIGconvert (Jul 17, 2009)

Kid9P said:


> How's the condition of your light? When I got mine a few weeks ago, there were about 3 tiny spots with missing anno. One on the head, body and tailcap.
> 
> Just wondering if things cleaned up since then.


 
I havent noticed any. It looks pretty good. My EDC L1's finish is finally starting to show wear after nearly 20 months of heavy use.

I'm stuffing my pockets with Surefires and getting ready to head outside to check it out. It's really dark here tonight in the sticks.


----------



## StandardBattery (Jul 17, 2009)

I don't see any dead horses here; I believe Deb said it best when she wrote _"It's just a Carnival pony, can't even leave the ground"_


----------



## Kid9P (Jul 18, 2009)

*Surefire LX2 on AW RCR123's --- Basic runtime testing*

Hey Guys,

For those that are interested in a basic runtime using AW RCR123's 3.7v,
I'm currently running a little test.

I took 2 new AW RCR123's freshly out of the charger.
I'm running the LX2 (On High) for 20 minute intervals with a 5 minute cool down break in between. At the 20 minute mark, the light is pretty darn hot.

So far, I have run it for a total of 60 minutes on HIGH. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

*UPDATE* and end of testing.

Light shut off at the 65 minute mark.


----------



## cue003 (Jul 18, 2009)

*Re: Surefire LX2 on AW RCR123's --- Basic runtime testing*

Why just 20 min? Why not longer?


----------



## Kid9P (Jul 18, 2009)

*Re: Surefire LX2 on AW RCR123's --- Basic runtime testing*

I'm not sure how safe it is running RCR123's in these lights.

At the 20 minute mark, the light was very hot. I didn't want to damage
anything.


----------



## DM51 (Jul 18, 2009)

*Re: Surefire LX2 on AW RCR123's --- Basic runtime testing*



Kid9P said:


> I'm not sure how safe it is running RCR123's in these lights


You aren't? I would have thought you ought to know the answer to that well enough by now. It is the same as for all previous such enquiries, and it goes something like this: SF did not design the LX2 to work on 2x RCR123 LiIons (8.4V) - they designed it for 2x CR123A primaries (6V). By over-driving it at the higher voltage, it may work for a while, but you will risk burning it out or causing other permanent damage to it, and by doing so you will void the warranty.

I'm merging this thread with the main LX2 one.


----------



## KDOG3 (Jul 19, 2009)

*Re: Surefire LX2 on AW RCR123's --- Basic runtime testing*

I would use the 3.0v rcrs' if I were you guys!


----------



## iapyx (Jul 19, 2009)

Is there anyone who recently bought an LX2 disappointed with it? Now that you have the light in your hands and have been able to feel it, try it. Is it as solid as you thought... etc.

*edit1)* for those who are still doubting about getting an LX2, why are you hesitating?
*edit2)* for those who don't consider getting an LX2: why not? (apart from the money) 
Just wondering since I am considering getting one myself or wait for another SF if it ever gets released.

thanks!


----------



## Valpo Hawkeye (Jul 19, 2009)

I definitely want this light. The only thing that turns me off is that goofy clip idea. I understand why they did it, but I don't like that it makes contact with a twisty tailcap. I use my EDSL as a dog-walking light and the low-first setup of the LX2 is much better for that.


----------



## fizzwinkus (Jul 19, 2009)

I was just planning to bend it away from the tail cap slightly or remove it completely.


----------



## Valpo Hawkeye (Jul 19, 2009)

fizzwinkus said:


> I was just planning to bend it away from the tail cap slightly or remove it completely.



I'd probably do the former. The latter leaves part of the o-ring that seals the head to the body unsupported.


----------



## ampdude (Jul 19, 2009)

So has anybody tried this clip on an E2e or E2L yet?


----------



## FrankW438 (Jul 19, 2009)

I haven't visited the forum in a while, but a buddy alerted me to the LX2, so I had to read this whole darn thread to learn more. Besides the "cool" factor and the fact that my buddy *doesn't have one yet*, I thought this might make a good duty light to replace my G2Z/M60 that I am currently using. So I ordered one last night. 

Has anyone found a decent nylon holster for the L2X? I have one around the house somewhere that I used for my SF L4, I hope this one will fit. I prefer a snap closure instead of a velcro closure on the flap.

I guess if it doesn't work out, I'm sure I can find *someone* locally who might want to buy it... 

-- Frank


----------



## matt0 (Jul 19, 2009)

iapyx said:


> Is there anyone who recently bought an LX2 disappointed with it? Now that you have the light in your hands and have been able to feel it, try it. Is it as solid as you thought... etc.
> 
> *edit1)* for those who are still doubting about getting an LX2, why are you hesitating?
> *edit2)* for those who don't consider getting an LX2: why not? (apart from the money)
> ...




I want it, badly! I'm waiting to see what how the LX1 and A2L turn out.. I realize I may wait a while but the longer I wait, the more I can save.


----------



## Monocrom (Jul 19, 2009)

iapyx said:


> *edit2)* for those who don't consider getting an LX2: why not? (apart from the money)


 
I decided I'd rather have an A2L.

And according to Surefire customer service, it's due to be released by the end of this month. (Yeah, I know; I'll believe it when someone posts on here that their A2L arrived in the mail).


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 19, 2009)

Valpo Hawkeye said:


> I'd probably do the former. The latter leaves part of the o-ring that seals the head to the body unsupported.


Look closer, no it doesn't.


----------



## Khabbi (Jul 20, 2009)

Well I finally broke down and ordered a LX2, it should be here by the end of the week! 

I was debating on whether I should buy it or not, being that I have the E1B for my pocket carry and the E2DL for general use... and I must say that I am pretty happy with both of those. But the thought of having the extra 80 reported lumens and more throw, as well as a higher output low setting really made me want the light... until I read several reviews that it's just not much brighter than the E2DL... and if I could get the E2DL for $50 cheaper, perhaps I should buy a second one.. but what fun would that be? 

I like the clip on the E1B, so that's a positive.. The extra output and throw, who really doesn't want that in a flashlight like this? So I broke down and decided to do my own comparisons... After all I love Surefire lights, and I have already shown great restraint to wait this long to order. 

I'll post my feelings on the light once it comes in!! Can't wait..


----------



## StandardBattery (Jul 20, 2009)

Khabbi said:


> *...* So I broke down and decided to do my own comparisons... *...*


 
That's what I decided a while back, but not before the first wave was sold out at the dealer I chose. Oh well, 1.5-2 more weeks and it should be here. 

There is always marketplace if it's not for me. I'd thought I was done with 2xCR123A, but might as well try one more since the optics and interface do make the light different than the others I have.

Damn if the Saint does not look interesting too and is just around the corner... might be SF will evolve rather than joining the dinasaurs, but a little early to tell since their diet requires a lot of green stuff that's just not growing in the environment like it use to.


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 20, 2009)

StandardBattery said:


> That's what I decided a while back, but not before the first wave was sold out at the dealer I chose. Oh well, 1.5-2 more weeks and it should be here....



:ironic: Same here the older I get the more I realize how impatient I am. Ive been waiting on an Elektrolumens EDC p7 i ordered 3 months ago that was supposed to be here at "the end of june" and then I ordered my LX2 only to recieve an email 2 days later that they were out of stock  Needless to say im anticipating my LX2 VERY much  Cant wait to compare it to mu underachieving E2DL to wow myself lol.


----------



## Numbers (Jul 21, 2009)

I was just advised by the vendor I use that the latest estimate for their next shipment of LX2's from SF has been delayed until the end of this month.

More waiting....


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 21, 2009)

*THANK YOU EBAY!!!!!*


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 21, 2009)

Sgt. LED said:


> *THANK YOU EBAY!!!!!*



Are you also glad you jumped onto it asap?
:thumbsup:


----------



## dchao (Jul 21, 2009)

*Re: Surefire LX2 on AW RCR123's --- Basic runtime testing*



KDOG3 said:


> I would use the 3.0v rcrs' if I were you guys!


I would use 1 x 17670, it's even safer, and longer runtime too. If it's too big to go in, use the unprotected one instead. The forward voltage of the LED will automatically protect the Li-Ion cell for under-voltage.


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 21, 2009)

Oh yeah! I sorta saw this backorder coming and I knew even if I didn't like it that it would of sold in 1 day max on the marketplace.

The buzz thread was months old and pages upon pages long before it was even out so I figured it would be a big hit. No need to wait for feedback on this one before ordering.


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 21, 2009)

That's the same thought process I had.
I worked out :twothumbs

Sorry to those who have to wait however!
:shakehead


----------



## Numbers (Jul 21, 2009)

I dont mind waiting, after all what's another month after all the time SF makes us wait. 
I wanted some real world feedback first (a different thought process because as I recall SF does not always get it right out of the gate), I thank you guys for providing it.
For me an additional benefit is I ordered from a dealer with excellent customer service and at a price lower than e-bay to boot. Although I have never sold any of my SF's I agree it could be done on B/S/T at or even a few bucks above my purchase price.


----------



## seattlite (Jul 22, 2009)

*Re: Surefire LX2 on AW RCR123's --- Basic runtime testing*



dchao said:


> I would use 1 x 17670, it's even safer, and longer runtime too. If it's too big to go in, use the unprotected one instead. The forward voltage of the LED will automatically protect the Li-Ion cell for under-voltage.



Depends on your requirements. I like'm bright, thus the use of TWO RCR's. But, glad to see there are so many options with the LX2 unlike its predecessor.


----------



## Khabbi (Jul 27, 2009)

Update: I finally got my LX2 after a somewhat frustrating (my fault for not ordering right away) backorder!!

Let me first say that I use my E2D LED a lot and it has been one of my favorites for a long time, this flashlight has really delivered and for the street price is very hard to beat IMO. If I'm not carrying that, it's usually much larger for spotlight purposes or my trusty E1B which is also another amazing light for it's size. The size of the E2D and LX2 are just about perfect for normal everyday purposes for me (not too big, not too small!). 

I won't bore everyone with my thoughts on the packaging, the color of metal, etc., we all know that Surefire does a great job with both of these details. I do like the included lanyard, although I must admit that I probably will never use it. To me a smaller wrist strap would have been better, but it's not a big deal. 

Onto my observations of the E2D LED vs the LX2, here ya go-

- The lx2 is brighter for sure (on High), but I will say that it's not overwhelmingly so. To me it's kind of like the difference between the E1B at full power and the E2DL at full power... you have to really be spotting at some distance to really be able to see the difference. In a decent size room it appears to be almost the same... but the LX2 displays a larger beam spot when aimed at a wall vs the E2DL.. I would say that in most rooms (large or small) the only thing you really wouldn't notice it unless looking for it. In other words, the flood ability of the light appears exactly the same, so it's not going to benefit you if you think this is going to make any difference at short distances. 

- The LX2 DOES give you better long distance spotting, and certainly does throw better than the E2DL. But in order to really notice it, again, would be at greater distances. The spot beam does appear to be bigger, again, also (makes sense, right?). In my backyard when I spot a tree approximately 40 yards away, there doesn't appear to be that much of a perceived difference between the 2 lights. 

- On low, I'm not sure what to say! In my experiments I was kind of confused at my results... the E2DL seems brighter (Ever so slightly) than my LX2. I have messed around with both lights on low EXTENSIVELY and I swear there is ZERO difference on the low setting on the ones I have. Not a big deal to me, but I did find this interesting. 

- The other significant difference is the push buttons that are on each light, as you know the E2DL has a protected button that emits a full power beam when initially pressed and a lower beam when pressed again.. The ability to lockout the power is simple with a minor twist of the tailcap. The LX2 has a open push button and a light press will give you the low setting, then as you press the high setting. This one is also easy to lock out so you don't accidentally use up your battery. I must say that I PERSONALLY like the push button style of the LX2 better, and here's why... I use the low setting alot around the house late at night, in the car, and times when I don't want the high beam to come on... so just a light push of the button, or a slight turn of the endcap will give me the low setting without having to go to the high setting, then clicking again for low like I have to do with the E2DL. I don't know how many times I have had to hold the E2DL in a way to block the light output until I can click it twice to get to the setting I need it at. Just seems to make more sense the way the LX2 is setup. 

- Last but not least is the clip... I don't really consider this a big deal, both clips are very useful but I do like the option of being able to carry the light bezel side up or down. Also when working on something alone where you need directed light, IE like clipping the light to face something you are working on, it would be much easier to use the clip on the LX2. It does appear that the clip on the E2DL is more durable, but I can't say that for sure as I don't plan on testing the breaking points of both clips. 

Sorry I don't have any pics of both of them side by side, I can post some later if anyone wants them...

Bottom line- They are both outstanding lights and it could be tough to choose between the 2 given the $50 difference in price tag. Some may find the E2DL just as good for their needs and pocket the $50 for something else, while the slight differences and extra throw (and who doesn't want more throw on a light like this?) may be well worth the extra money. 

For me? I hate choosing on things like this, so I'm glad I own both! But the nod goes to the LX2 for the reasons I stated above... the push button low to high and extra lumens has made this my new favorite! 
:twothumbs


----------



## :)> (Jul 27, 2009)

This light is simply awesome! After playing with it a bit in the woods during a backpacking trip, I can say that it is just phenomenal:thumbsup:

Surefire has nailed the optic!


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 27, 2009)

Glad to hear it performs well in the woods Goatee! Khabbi where did you happen to order from?


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 29, 2009)

Woohoo!!! I finally got my LX2! First thoughts... The packaging is way overdone! I do like it though. Opened it all up and MAN is the annodizing off. The body on mine seriously looks like HA-BK not natural HA. Even the head and tailcap are fairly dark for "natural" HA. This doesnt matter to be though seeing as its going to be a user not a queen. Turned it on and shined it around and I LOVE the beam of this thing. Once I got up real close to the white wall you can see that the emmiter is a little off center but like I said earlier, this is a user not a queen. The clip is a little thin but I like the design. As long as it doesnt break I could care less. Cant see any reason not to pick one of these up for the price. Grab an F04 though if you want the best EDC possible! This is also gonna make a good camping light for me. :twothumbs


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 29, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> Woohoo!!! I finally got my LX2! First thoughts... The packaging is way overdone! I do like it though. Opened it all up and MAN is the annodizing off. The body on mine seriously looks like HA-BK not natural HA. Even the head and tailcap are fairly dark for "natural" HA. This doesnt matter to be though seeing as its going to be a user not a queen. Turned it on and shined it around and I LOVE the beam of this thing. Once I got up real close to the white wall you can see that the emmiter is a little off center but like I said earlier, this is a user not a queen. The clip is a little thin but I like the design. As long as it doesnt break I could care less. Cant see any reason not to pick one of these up for the price. Grab an F04 though if you want the best EDC possible! This is also gonna make a good camping light for me. :twothumbs


 
Well, i just recieved my LX2 today also and i was gonna write my thoughts down about it...but after reading yours...i think you covered everything i was gonna say (except for the camping thing....cause i dont go camping hehe)


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 29, 2009)

Scotty007 said:


> Well, i just recieved my LX2 today also and i was gonna write my thoughts down about it...but after reading yours...i think you covered everything i was gonna say (except for the camping thing....cause i dont go camping hehe)



Hah good to hear. Does your body appear almost black?


----------



## steveG (Jul 29, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> Hah good to hear. Does your body appear almost black?



What does his body have to do with flashlights? This is getting weird! Haha!


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 29, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> Hah good to hear. Does your body appear almost black?


 


The body is VERY VERY dark (but looking at my E2DL, its not THAT dark) the tailcap is greyish like normal anodizing and the head is brownish bronze...oh well...i didnt buy it for the color anyway :ironic:


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 29, 2009)

steveG said:


> What does his body have to do with flashlights? This is getting weird! Haha!



Lmao I though the word _Flashlight_ was implied :nana:


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 29, 2009)

steveG said:


> What does his body have to do with flashlights? This is getting weird! Haha!


 


thats very funny...as soon as i read "does your body..." i knew someone was going to say something like that :laughing:


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 29, 2009)

Scotty007 said:


> The body is VERY VERY dark (but looking at my E2DL, its not THAT dark) the tailcap is greyish like normal anodizing and the head is brownish bronze...oh well...i didnt buy it for the color anyway :ironic:



I would saw brownish bronze is right on the money for the head. FWIW my body serial number is *A02118*

White computer paper, E2DL, LX2


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 29, 2009)

Yeah they are very close my serial # is A02168
and i would take that picture exactly as you have it for a comparison but i dont have my camera with me right now :sigh:


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 29, 2009)

I also noticed something interesting after playing with it ( the flashlight that is...i want to make sure i am very clear about the wording :naughty there is actually a hotspot WITHIN the hotspot....i noticed this on the low setting from a distance of about 15 feet in a semi-lit room and on the high setting in the dark...anybody else see this?


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 29, 2009)

My serial is X00340

Here is a comparison shot with the E2DL (I took this a couple of weeks ago)






They look pretty similar to me :thumbsup:


----------



## Litbobber (Jul 29, 2009)

DimeRazorback said:


> My serial is X00340
> 
> Here is a comparison shot with the E2DL (I took this a couple of weeks ago)
> 
> ...



Nice pic mate!!


----------



## bullfrog (Jul 29, 2009)

Scotty007 said:


> I also noticed something interesting after playing with it ( the flashlight that is...i want to make sure i am very clear about the wording :naughty there is actually a hotspot WITHIN the hotspot....i noticed this on the low setting from a distance of about 15 feet in a semi-lit room...anybody else see this?



That is the magic that is the TIR optic :thumbsup:

You have that main PUNCH and then the second field to give just enough light for your peripheral vision.


----------



## BRO (Jul 29, 2009)

Just received mine today. Not dark yet but I can already tell I am really going to enjoy having this in my collection. So far it is a big "plus one" on all the positives everyone has posted. 

The clip has to go, no big deal but I like the lanyard so that will stay. Mine does appear to have a two tone paint scheme but it could be the poor lighting in the room I'm in. When it gets dark, if what I'm reading is what I'm going to see. My TK11 (fine light) will not be going on as many outings with me because the new SF just feels better in my had.. The SF is more comfortable in my hand because it seems lighter and thinner to me. Anyway, a little time carrying and the night time will provide me with all the answers to my questions. 

Did I tell you guys, this is really a nice light. Regards/ BRO


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 29, 2009)

Litbobber said:


> Nice pic mate!!



Thanks mate :thumbsup:


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 29, 2009)

bullfrog said:


> That is the magic that is the TIR optic :thumbsup:
> 
> You have that main PUNCH and then the second field to give just enough light for your peripheral vision.


 


My E2DL is not like that at all though.....its just one small tight bright (greenish) circle


----------



## cue003 (Jul 29, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> I would saw brownish bronze is right on the money for the head. FWIW my body serial number is *A02118*
> 
> White computer paper, E2DL, LX2



Nice you got your setup the same way I have one of mine.... with the F04 slapped on the front. excellent for indoors and close to medium distances.


----------



## cue003 (Jul 29, 2009)

Interesting also that some serial numbers seem to start with a X and others seems to start with an A based on what was posted here. Both of my lights start with a X for the serial number.


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 29, 2009)

cue003 said:


> Interesting also that some serial numbers seem to start with a X and others seems to start with an A based on what was posted here. Both of my lights start with a X for the serial number.


 

Do you have low serial #s? maybe the really low numbers start with an X and the higher ones with an A. kind of like a "first production run" type thing! just a guess though


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 29, 2009)

Scotty007 said:


> Do you have low serial #s? maybe the really low numbers start with an X and the higher ones with an A. kind of like a "first production run" type thing! just a guess though




Possibly! Now where is Al when you need him? We need a batman type signal for that guy!


----------



## Size15's (Jul 30, 2009)

SureFire's serial numbering has always been rather ineffable...
In the past, Axxxxxx was the norm, with Bxxxxxx indicating when they were transitioning to their new larger facility and were producing out of both for a while.
"X" after the serial number (AxxxxxX) has indicated proto-type or sample.
"X" instead of "A" at the beginning could indicate first run, or similar. Or it could indicate it was manufactured especially for pre-orders or for specific dealers etc.
Short answer, I don't know.


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 30, 2009)

We should start a serial number register for the LX2

I'm interested now!

I would start one, but I dont know if the mods will want it merged with this or not...


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 30, 2009)

Size15's said:


> SureFire's serial numbering has always been rather ineffable...
> In the past, Axxxxxx was the norm, with Bxxxxxx indicating when they were transitioning to their new larger facility and were producing out of both for a while.
> "X" after the serial number (AxxxxxX) has indicated proto-type or sample.
> "X" instead of "A" at the beginning could indicate first run, or similar. Or it could indicate it was manufactured especially for pre-orders or for specific dealers etc.
> Short answer, I don't know.



Interesting insight. I would think it would mean either the first run or pre-orders like you mentioned but like you said with Surefire SN's you never can tell.
And I guess we dont need a batman signal after all? :wave:


----------



## Monocrom (Jul 30, 2009)

DimeRazorback said:


> We should start a serial number register for the LX2
> 
> I'm interested now!
> 
> I would start one, but I dont know if the mods will want it merged with this or not...


 
PM one of them, and ask.


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 30, 2009)

Size15's said:


> "X" instead of "A" at the beginning could indicate first run, or similar. Or it could indicate it was manufactured especially for pre-orders or for specific dealers etc...


 


Um...i said that yesterday....post #279...just saying...


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Jul 30, 2009)

> Opened it all up and MAN is the annodizing off. The body on mine seriously looks like HA-BK not natural HA. Even the head and tailcap are fairly dark for "natural" HA.


 
Same here, looks like it was made by a committee from spare parts. All three sections have a distinctly different tint. As someone recently observed, this adds to the 'character' of the light since it's a Surefire.

Nice size, the light is smaller than I was expecting after using a Kroma and a U2 recently. Somewhere I have an old L2, I'd love to find it for comparison.

The beam is not as clean as I expected, an aesthetic issue mainly but I also have the slightly off center emitter and a dark ring on one side of the hotspot. It looks kinda like the beam from one of the small Cree XR-E Nitecores.

I'm off to walk the dog later tonight with the LX2 and a couple of other recent arrivals...


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 30, 2009)

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Same here, looks like it was made by a committee from spare parts. All three sections have a distinctly different tint. As someone recently observed, this adds to the 'character' of the light since it's a Surefire.


 

We were comparing serial numbers and found that similar numbered lights have the same color anodizing...to a degree... whats the serial number of your LX2??


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 30, 2009)

Monocrom said:


> PM one of them, and ask.



Good idea!


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 30, 2009)

Completly forgot to mention but this light has the the warmest tint of any Surefire ive owned to date! Anybody else have the same results? Maybe with the newest batch since people from the first batch reported the normal blue?


----------



## bullfrog (Jul 30, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> Completly forgot to mention but this light has the the warmest tint of any Surefire ive owned to date! Anybody else have the same results? Maybe with the newest batch since people from the first batch reported the normal blue?



Just curious is it a warm :sick2: :green: green or acceptable?


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Jul 30, 2009)

> Completly forgot to mention but this light has the the warmest tint of any Surefire ive owned to date! Anybody else have the same results? Maybe with the newest batch since people from the first batch reported the normal blue?


 
Mine isn't warm but it sure wins the SF tint lottery after my last couple of green E1B's!:thumbsup:



> We were comparing serial numbers and found that similar numbered lights have the same color anodizing...to a degree... whats the serial number of your LX2??


 
A038XX.


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 30, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> Completly forgot to mention but this light has the the warmest tint of any Surefire ive owned to date! Anybody else have the same results? Maybe with the newest batch since people from the first batch reported the normal blue?



Can you get some beamshots by any chance?


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 30, 2009)

bullfrog said:


> Just curious is it a warm :sick2: :green: green or acceptable?



No not green at all. My first P60L would compliment a Yamaha dirtbike very well, My E2DL is fairly warm but has a hint of green. This light is just straight warm. No gross coloration. The low is extremly warm and on high its a "warm white" if I had to describe it.

If I get real bored tomorrow I may try my hand at beamshots but dont hold your breath.

My SN is A02118 FYI but as Al has said before everything gets all mixed up and theres no specific order to which the people assembling lights grab the bodies in numerical order.


----------



## Ctrain (Jul 31, 2009)

Just wondering has anyone else noticed this... 
The clip protrudes a little so when tightened its actually taken a bit of ano off the head... :mecry:

Its no big deal.... its still the best light Ive ever owned! 

The clip is a lot better in person than photos represent IMHO

I only had slight ano miss matching... but I kinda like that!
It feels VERY solid too! 
A great Light indeed!


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 31, 2009)

I don't think your clip is all the way in!

Mine is about 1mm below the surface of the head!


Here is a very fast and poor shot


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Jul 31, 2009)

DimeRazorback said:


> I don't think your clip is all the way in!
> 
> Mine is about 1mm below the surface of the head!



+1

You need to push the top of the clip down with smoe pliers or the like. be careful!


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 31, 2009)

PSM is right. Take the head off and push on the end of the clip with pliers or a screw driver or something of the sort. That should fix all your problems!


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Jul 31, 2009)

I just checked, mine is like Ctrain's, the clip is slightly high and it has rubbed off a small spot of HA (horrors!).

Anybody know what type of grease is on the threads of this light? It seems to be thicker and more sticky (technical terms) than on other recent SF lights. The twist action is silky smooth at both head and tail but the tail o-ring seems to kink sometimes when replacing the tailcap after a battery change. I've done subsequent battery changes through the head, it also avoids the clip rub on the tailcap.

The light seems to work great with AW RCR123's.

High mode seems to be about the same brightness as a 4Seven's Quark 123 at long distances, hopefully new SF's will continue to have the increased throw available with the 'new' emitters. Even though low mode is more than enough for many uses, I like to have enough 'tactical' light available to eliminate all doubt if the situation warrants.

I need to put this new light down and get some work done. Well, maybe...


----------



## Ctrain (Jul 31, 2009)

Done and done! That's why I love CPF! Thanks heaps guys


----------



## Scotty007 (Jul 31, 2009)

Hey everybody...go to DimeRazorback's "Surefire LX2 Serial Number Registry" thread and register your LX2 Serial number!!


----------



## Ctrain (Jul 31, 2009)

Has anyone changed the clip yet? Do the E series clips fit straight in?


----------



## StandardBattery (Jul 31, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> Woohoo!!! I finally got my LX2! First thoughts... The packaging is way overdone! I do like it though. Opened it all up and MAN is the annodizing off. The body on mine seriously looks like HA-BK not natural HA. Even the head and tailcap are fairly dark for "natural" HA. *...*


 


Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Same here, looks like it was made by a committee from spare parts. All three sections have a distinctly different tint. *...*


 
+3 (or 4) - It could be they found out about the good deals and decided that this was a good way to unload some stuff... 

Dark Brown/Copper head, dark grey tube, and med-grey silver tail-cap. With the Brown/Copper Head it *really* looks like one of my lego lights. There is a greenish tint to the body and tailcap, but it is not always apparent depending on the lighting.

My low is noticeably brighter than my E2DL, but unfortunately the High is very close, maybe too close to call because of beam pattern differences. The beam on the L2X has a slightly brighter/focused hotspot, with a different spill pattern, don't know how to describe it quite yet.

The good news is like my E2DL it's a very capable light. It does look a little strange with the ano mismatch

I have a second one, but since the first one seems pretty close to my ED2L for max output, I think I can live with just one and send the other to the market place.

The feel of the light is pretty nice, but I could not say it is better than the E2DL. The LX2 feels more military and the E2DL maybe more civilian with its more streamlined body. They are both great, and I just can't say one is really better than the other, there just two great feeling lights.


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 31, 2009)

StandardBattery said:


> The feel of the light is pretty nice, but I could not say it is better than the E2DL. The LX2 feels more military and the E2DL maybe more civilian with its more streamlined body. They are both great, and I just can't say one is really better than the other, there just two great feeling lights.




Hahaha wow id be more inclined to say the exact oposite. On the LX2 the low is accessible first. It doesnt have a crenelated bezel or tailcap and its "natural" ha. Seems to me like the E2DL is all around more military but really to each his own.

And would you guys with a light from the recent batch mind commenting on your beam tints? Im just wondering if I was really lucky or if there was a change.


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 31, 2009)

I'm also interested!

Where are those beamshots gsxrac???

:nana:


----------



## StandardBattery (Jul 31, 2009)

I can say from my sample of 2 that the tints are different. 1 appears quite white relative to the other and the E2DL. The E2DL seems to be the warmest & greenest of the 3 lights. I think the green is very noticeable on the foliage when I'm outside, making it hard to say which one is really putting out more lumes.


----------



## gsxrac (Jul 31, 2009)

DimeRazorback said:


> I'm also interested!
> 
> Where are those beamshots gsxrac???
> 
> :nana:


Hmmm I'll trade you beamshots of my LX2 for your C2-CJ :naughty: Maybe one day for real though. Im still kinda learning on this camera since ive only owned it about a month and a half and havent done anything too technical with it :candle:.


----------



## DimeRazorback (Jul 31, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> Hmmm I'll trade you beamshots of my LX2 for your C2-CJ :naughty: Maybe one day for real though. Im still kinda learning on this camera since ive only owned it about a month and a half and havent done anything too technical with it :candle:.



Haha! Damn, you got me! 

Just have a try, My first ones went fairly well!
I was surprised!

I still have to do longer distance ones though... when I have a night off! :shakehead


----------



## Wattnot (Aug 1, 2009)

I am right on the hairy edge of buying one of these but every time I go to click the PAY button, another one shows up on CPFMP. That's the THIRD ONE in about 2 weeks and in each case, it was "I opened it and tried it" and then it was for sale. 

And in two of the cases, that anno seemed to come off way too easy. And it looks like it's another kaleidoscope of colors too. Why not just black? I would have too much pride to turn out such an expensive product with 4 shades of anno. Defend it all you want but it's not right.


----------



## gsxrac (Aug 1, 2009)

Wattnot I hear you. But the same thing happened with the T1A's the same thing happens with Ra Clickys. Alot of people buy something, try it out, and sell it for the next up and comming product. Not saying your wrong by any means it just seems like thats the cycle with ALL new lights when you concider theres new lights comming out almost literally every day. I got my light, the anno was off, but I dont really mind that? I know my light will end up dropped, steped on, submerged, and bashing against rocks sooner or later so the aesthetics dont bother me. 
If you want a good all around user with a good amount of output and a very useful UI grab it. If you want a beautiful light with perfect annodizing then stay far far away! This aint it :green: and maybe post a WTB on the MP and ask for a good tint and annodizing? Thats the only way to know for sure I guess!


----------



## iapyx (Aug 1, 2009)

Wattnot said:


> I am right on the hairy edge of buying one of these but every time I go to click the PAY button, another one shows up on CPFMP. That's the THIRD ONE in about 2 weeks and in each case, it was "I opened it and tried it" and then it was for sale.
> 
> And in two of the cases, that anno seemed to come off way too easy. And it looks like it's another kaleidoscope of colors too. Why not just black? I would have too much pride to turn out such an expensive product with 4 shades of anno. Defend it all you want but it's not right.


 

Same here.
I have been on the edge of buying one. I even did bid a few times and on several occassions I nearly hit the 'buy it now' button. I love the 200 lumen and I love the spot it throws, but to be honest: I am not convinced I will like it once I have it in my hands. Afraid that I won't like the clip, the UI, the anno coming of (also when twisting the tailcap). I have to add that I am spoiled for having a U2 and a U2A. That thing feels so solid. I don't think that I will like the LX2 as much. So I decided not to bite and wait (long) for either a UB3 or UA2 or both. Been saving for a looooong time.


----------



## pulstar (Aug 2, 2009)

Yeah, i was almost sold on lx2, but all those clip breakings, color missmatches and annodizing errors again made me hesitating which one to get: e2dl or lx2. Sure lx2 has higher lumen rating, but again not as high that would justify 120vs200 rating. It also looks prettier, but only on Surefire's webpage, in real it looks like they tried to annodize it in camo colours:sick2: Not to mention, that people are not sure it can stand 3.7 rcr's like e2dl(was reported from many and long ago). And it would be a disaster to get it here in Europe(import duties and taxes) because the overall price could go around 280+$.
On the other hand e2dl isn't all that fancy with it's black annodizing, it's dimmer, i don't know about throw( that's my only reason to get another pocket flashlight-currently i have nitecore extreme r2 and i wish it could throw better) and i could get it from european dealer for about 200$ with rechargeable batteries. 
How would you compare beam differences and throw of these two lights(e2dl and lx2) because brightness seems to be a lottery here... 
And can someone please explain how lx2's switch works: For constant you have to twist head, pressing tailcap is only for momentary or what? How it differs from e2dl's switch?


----------



## DimeRazorback (Aug 2, 2009)

pulstar said:


> And can someone please explain how lx2's switch works: For constant you have to twist head, pressing tailcap is only for momentary or what? How it differs from e2dl's switch?



The E2DL has a clicky, click for on, click again to turn off.
Click and it will be on high, turn off and then click again it will be low.
Same idea with the momentary function, hold for high, release and hold again for low.
After about a second however, it defaults to high, so turning on and off to change modes is a quick process of clicking.

The LX2 has a momentary functioning tailcap, and a twist for constant on.
Push a little for low, push further for high.
Twist the tailcap a little for constant low, twist further for constant high.


----------



## pulstar (Aug 2, 2009)

Damn, i feared that. I prefer lights which can be operated with just one hand(that's the second reason, along with throw, that i miss on my extreme). 
Does someone have both lights(Extreme and e2dl)? how would you compare overall brightness and more important, throw?


----------



## Size15's (Aug 2, 2009)

I consider the LX2 (A2L etc) to be a one-hand operated flashlight. It's really easy to rotate the TailCap between your thumb and forefinger for constant-on.


----------



## RobertM (Aug 2, 2009)

pulstar said:


> Damn, i feared that. I prefer lights which can be operated with just one hand(that's the second reason, along with throw, that i miss on my extreme).
> Does someone have both lights(Extreme and e2dl)? how would you compare overall brightness and more important, throw?



I'm going to have to agree with Size15's. While I don't have my LX2 yet (after nearly a month long backorder, it's in the hands of FedEx on its way ), my A2 Aviators have the exact same UI. It is not hard at all to twist the tailcap with my thumb and index finger on the rare occasion that I need constant on. 

Those of you dismissing this light on the UI alone are really missing out. IMO, this is one of the very best UI in the business. Instant access to either high or low without cycling throw modes or twisting dials, etc., is a wonderful thing.


----------



## Wattnot (Aug 2, 2009)

RobertM said:


> Those of you dismissing this light on the UI alone are really missing out. IMO, this is one of the very best UI in the business. Instant access to either high or low without cycling throw modes or twisting dials, etc., is a wonderful thing.


 
+1 on the UI. It's Surefire's best.

The other light I was considering is the E2DL and after reading the full description above, I'm not sure I want that one at all now. You click once for high, twice for off and three times for low? Did I read that right? Yuck!


----------



## gsxrac (Aug 2, 2009)

Wattnot said:


> +1 on the UI. It's Surefire's best.
> 
> The other light I was considering is the E2DL and after reading the full description above, I'm not sure I want that one at all now. You click once for high, twice for off and three times for low? Did I read that right? Yuck!



Haha E2DL = Click(high) click(off) click(low), click(off)
Or after turning it on(high) you can depress the switch just a little and that will also switch modes.


----------



## Khabbi (Aug 2, 2009)

Just a few pics as promised....


----------



## Litbobber (Aug 2, 2009)

Very nice pics khabbi, cant wait to get my LX2.


----------



## snapper (Aug 2, 2009)

broke down and bought one today. Found it at smoky mnt knife works, just got two in sat morning. So far i love this light, the ui is really growing on me. So a few of you have had these a while, how hard are the bats to run down? I figure with a mix of low and high it ought to last a while? So how long did it take ya to run down your first set??

Later!! chris


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Aug 2, 2009)

snapper said:


> Found it at smoky mnt knife works,



Boy thats a hell of a place. Went there a few years ago. 

Never seen so many pancake houses in such a small area...


----------



## SCblur (Aug 2, 2009)

snapper said:


> broke down and bought one today. Found it at smoky mnt knife works, just got two in sat morning. So far i love this light, the ui is really growing on me. So a few of you have had these a while, how hard are the bats to run down? I figure with a mix of low and high it ought to last a while? So how long did it take ya to run down your first set??
> 
> Later!! chris



I've had mine a couple of weeks now, and I use it an average of 5-10 minutes a night, and I'm still on the first set of batteries.


----------



## Robert_M (Aug 3, 2009)

Got mine July 1st ... still on original batteries.


----------



## Scotty007 (Aug 4, 2009)

Size15's said:


> I consider the LX2 (A2L etc) to be a one-hand operated flashlight. It's really easy to rotate the TailCap between your thumb and forefinger for constant-on.


 

Yeah, its easy but i find that with lights that you twist for constant (my 9P and LX2) the tailcap gets tight after not being turned even for a day....i had my lx2 and after one day i tried to twist with one hand...it was incredibly difficult but after twisting for a few seconds it loosens right up....but as i said only for a little while...then it gets tight again. after not using my 9P for about a month, i could barely twist it on....even with both hands! any recomendations?


----------



## DimeRazorback (Aug 4, 2009)

That would be to do with lubricant.

What is the weather like for you at the moment?

My lights with NyoGel 779, are difficult to get moving at the moment because it is winter and the gel becomes 'thicker'.


----------



## Scotty007 (Aug 4, 2009)

DimeRazorback said:


> That would be to do with lubricant.
> 
> What is the weather like for you at the moment?
> 
> My lights with NyoGel 779, are difficult to get moving at the moment because it is winter and the gel becomes 'thicker'.


 

It happens in all seasons but right now in New York its about 75 degrees F (23 Celcius) but the light is stored inside where its about 69 degrees F (20 Celcius) on average (i know your in Australia so i converted the temps for you!
Sorry for not clarifying....its SUMMER! hehe


----------



## Size15's (Aug 4, 2009)

It does seem like a possible lubrication issue but it could also simply be that the TailCap could benefit from being deliberately rotated at the start of each day so it rotates more easily.
I tend to check my EDC functions when I put it in my pocket for the day

On the subject of temperature - I did geography rather than history at school so we didn't learn the old imperial ways of measurement. Miles and pints are all that remains!

Al


----------



## Scotty007 (Aug 5, 2009)

Size15's said:


> .
> 
> I tend to check my EDC functions when I put it in my pocket for the day
> 
> Al


 

Thats a very simple and brilliant idea, yet im sure many people dont do that........including myself :shakehead from now on i will check that my light works on high and low one time before i put it in my pocket and i guess...what else....oh yeah......open my knife and make sure its sharp and locks open properly


----------



## pulstar (Aug 6, 2009)

Has someone already checked it's effective range (LX2's) outside in the field? If so, how big is it? A fair guess would be enough...


----------



## pjandyho (Aug 6, 2009)

How does one determine effective range? As long as the light hits the spot and lights it up? Or hitting the spot and being able to still discern details? At long distances our eyes can't resolve details that well, but if the light is able to paint a target at that distance whether we make out any details or not, then is that considered effective range? :shrug:


----------



## DimeRazorback (Aug 6, 2009)

It lights up an area very effectively at 100m

:thumbsup:


----------



## pulstar (Aug 6, 2009)

DimeRazorback said:


> It lights up an area very effectively at 100m
> 
> :thumbsup:


Thanks for your reply. Regarding second post above: with effective lenght i meant a distance, where a flashlight can still illuminate enough to see some object without a problem-or illuminate something you try to recognize.


----------



## pjandyho (Aug 6, 2009)

Thanks for the explanation. I think 100m seems good enough and it seems that most new lights are able to meet this spec IMHO.


----------



## KDOG3 (Aug 6, 2009)

Well I couldnt' take it anymore. I just ordered another one. My favorite vendor had *ONE* left if stock so I snatched it. I had sold my first one at the marketplace and regretted it. I am selling my silver E1B in case anyone is interested. I can only hope it has the same perfectly round/centered beam quality my first one had....


----------



## RobertM (Aug 6, 2009)

After waiting 29 days for my LX2 with the SureFire backorder, it arrived yesterday! 

So I open up the box..."Whoa...you guys weren't kidding about the mismatched anodization!"  But okay, I can probably live with it. I have some other SF natural finish lights with mismatched ano (not as bad though).















So I fire it up...this sucker is bright! Then I dim to low mode...holy green beam tint 

Playing with the light outside last night, I was really impressed with how far it throws and how useful the 15 lumen low is for outside navigating. I'm really digging the new body style too. It has a good amount of grip (WAY better than the E1B), yet doesn't have the clothing-shredding knurling of most SF lights.

So I bring it back inside and take a closer look and what do I find? A finger smudge on the optic inside the sealed bezel! :scowl: Unacceptable IMO.

This is really hard to photograph, but it is near the top of the optic at the 11 o'clock position in both the pics below.










Today I asked the dealer I bought it from but they said they can't do an exchange because SureFire handles all of it. So I called SureFire and they gave me an RMA and I'll be shipping it back to the West coast tomorrow. 
They said they will look at the smudge and possibly the beam tint and mismatched ano as well. Regarding beam tint, the SF rep told me that SureFire's are illumination tools, not museum pieces. :sigh:

What a disappointment after the long wait. Hopefully SF will fix everything and it will be a great light from then on. The wait continues...

-Robert


----------



## DimeRazorback (Aug 6, 2009)

Ah that sucks to hear mate!

At least they are going to look into it all for you! :thumbsup:

The ano is fairly mismatched but I honestly don't mind it!

Add's depth and character, especially when photographing the beauties!


Let us all know how it goes!!


----------



## freeride21a (Aug 6, 2009)

First off... I LOVE MY LX2*!!!* I am happy with every aspect of it, size durability, high/low, pocketclipage. The UI is my most favorite part! 

I have a couple of thoughts on mismatched anodizing and the green tint in low...

Are the aluminums they use for the head, body, and tailcap the same? If they are not, then the anodizing process is going to be react differently for each type of aluminum. Even if their raw stock is the same spec ie 6000, 7000, or 8000 series, different suppliers/mfgs of it might have slightly different alloy properties creating the difference.

I think the green tint at low comes from an internal coating withing the TIR system. If you angle your head in some light when it is off you will get a green flash at the right angle, very similar to when you look at coated optics from different angles. I think at low that coating is tinting the light in this case, because at full power it is white as me with my shirt off.

again these are just thoughts.

and yeah..that fingerprint inside is unacceptable!


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Aug 6, 2009)

> So I fire it up...this sucker is bright! Then I dim to low mode...holy green beam tint


 


> Regarding beam tint, the SF rep told me that SureFire's are illumination tools, not museum pieces. :sigh:


 
My LX2 does shift noticably toward green on low but it is in the ballpark for good SF tint, especially after a very green E1B I bought last year.

Items like poor beam tint and grossly mismatched anodization would be considered glaring flaws in boutique lights like Henry's. However, SF is an 'illumination tool' so you may be asked to accept these 'features'. Let us know how it turns out.

My LX2 has many of the issues noted on this thread but it is a great light and has wonderful throw for the size. I'm off to Mexico with it tonight...


----------



## Wattnot (Aug 6, 2009)

Between the comments in this thread and the 4 or 5 now that have already been listed for sale in the marketplace, my interest in this light is fading faster than M6 on near dead batteries. 

I'm going to give the E2DL another look. If there are any happy LX2 owners who want to sell their E2DL, gimme a ring!!


----------



## Scotty007 (Aug 6, 2009)

RobertM said:


> They said they will look at the smudge and possibly the beam tint and mismatched ano as well. Regarding beam tint, the SF rep told me that SureFire's are illumination tools, not museum pieces. :sigh:


 

Sorry man, that sucks...i wouldnt worry about the mismatched anodizing unless you ARE planning to make this a museum piece...i dropped my light already and the ano came off so i just worry about that less and less every day! :ironic:


----------



## snapper (Aug 6, 2009)

if you are looking for a user don't be scared of this light. What i love about this light over the e2dl is there are no sharp teeth to chew up your clothing, and what i really liked was the bezel down carry. Carry a surefire bezel up just doesn't seem very secure. People buying then turning around and selling is the norm here. Buy it play with it then sell it and wait for the next new thing. Thats my two cents, and i am really glads i bought it and i love it. 

Later!! chris


----------



## pjandyho (Aug 7, 2009)

Well after reading all the comments in regards to the beam tint on low, the different anno colors, and the finger prints, this is what I have to say.

I am a fan of Surefire for many years and I am still a fan today. I for one am willing to pay a premium price to acquire a Surefire piece, or masterpiece if I were to be more sentimental about it.

But, over the years I have also purchased quite a handful of China made lights which I am happy with. Brand range also includes Jetbeam, Nitecore and Fenix. And in all these cases, non of the China made lights I had exhibited any mismatch in the anno, with beam tint showing almost full white whether on high mode or low mode. Their reflectors and lens are clean out of the box.

So, regardless of whether Surefire be a museum piece or not, or whether one can say about the different aluminum grading which produces different anno properties, all I can say is this...

At the price we pay for a Surefire, it better be done right because that is what professionalism is all about. You guys telling me something made in US could not achieve 100% perfection? I don't believe that.


----------



## pulstar (Aug 7, 2009)

Well, is there any chance that annodizing is made like that deliberately?
Can you post some shots of light in low mode, that anyone who's interested in this light(me incl.:laughing Can se how green is the beam.


----------



## Wattnot (Aug 7, 2009)

Wow, pjandyho, I've just experienced "post-ja-vu" because I was going to say those same words!! All of it! I would have added only one sentiment . . . the high quality Chinese lights you refer to are also extremely rechargeable friendly.

At least with the A2L it looks like only two colors, and the way it came out it looks intentional and not horrible like the LX2's 4 colors.

SF makes a great light but unlike Tigger, they're NOT the only one. They had better watch out. I had high hopes for what they were bringing to the market this year but so far it's just a really nicely done brochure.


----------



## freeride21a (Aug 7, 2009)

Here is a pic of the internal greenish reflection that might cause the slight green hue when on.
Flashlight is OFF, reflection lighting provided by princeton tec eos2

Image is a 100% crop of the image straight from the camera.


----------



## Monocrom (Aug 7, 2009)

snapper said:


> if you are looking for a user don't be scared of this light. What i love about this light over the e2dl is there are no sharp teeth to chew up your clothing, and what i really liked was the bezel down carry. Carry a surefire bezel up just doesn't seem very secure.


 
I own 14 Surefire lights. Most of them with bezel-up pocket-carry clips attached. My main EDC is a black E-series light with the shorter bezel-up clip, carried in the left front pocket of my pants.

The clips are extremely secure. Never had one Surefire accidentally slip or fall out of my pocket, when carried bezel-up.


----------



## DimeRazorback (Aug 7, 2009)

I have to agree my A2, and E2DL stay very secure in my pocket!


----------



## pjandyho (Aug 7, 2009)

pulstar said:


> Well, is there any chance that annodizing is made like that deliberately?



Done deliberately? I don't think so.

I will tell you what I think. I think that the reason why the anodizing are all different was due to the fact that Surefire sort of mix and match parts that are left over from previous production just to save cost. And I believe that if all the parts are sent for anodizing together, the color should remain the same. Why should the bezel, body tube, and tail cap be made from different grades of aluminum? "As long as it works, who cares?" is probably their slogan right now.

And I am sick of having to worry about this lottery going on whenever I open a package of new light from SF.

For a while when SF started packaging their lights in bubble wraps, I was more than delighted. I know there are folks complaining about the cutting of cost when SF went the way of bubble wraps but I am happy as I get to inspect the anodizing of the light before deciding on my purchase. In Singapore, there are no such policies as a 30 days money back guarantee so any purchase I have made would be for life, unless I intended to ebay it.


----------



## DM51 (Aug 7, 2009)

Concerning the point about anodising... my older SF lights, such as my 4-flats A2s, have a wide variation in ano colors and shades, ranging from pale gray through green-gray to dark gray. One of my A2s has 4 distinctly different colors - bezel ring, head, body and tailcap. I actually like that - it gives the light more character. Much better than a rather boring uniform dark gray!


----------



## pulstar (Aug 7, 2009)

But on the other hand, why they advertise their lights like perfectly matched in one color? Sadly pjandyho most likely has right. I'm from overseas too and it would be very hard to make some waranty and other disclaims when light would be at my house.


----------



## DM51 (Aug 7, 2009)

It probably happens because the separate parts, rather than whole lights, are anodised together. In other words, all the tailcaps are done in one bath, all the bodies in another, the heads in a third... I don't know, but I guess that is what happens. They probably try to achieve uniformity, but there are bound to be some variations if it is done that way. 

My personal view (which I completely accept will not be shared by everyone) is that a little color variation in the components adds character. I like it. Others clearly don't, and I respect their view too.


----------



## pulstar (Aug 7, 2009)

Yes, of course. While everyone's expecting top-notch quality with surefire, those annodizing mistakes give us feeling that we won't get what we seek in this particular flashlight, but not because it's not a top-quality, it LOOKS like maybe isn't. Well, we're all used to get a nice package, but what comes inside..., we're sometimes dissapointed later. But it comes very difficult when all starts with an ugly package (annodizing:nana. How can you expect a nice inside(build-quality, ui..)??!!:devil:


----------



## freeride21a (Aug 7, 2009)

Kinda funny how people are complaining about the anodizing color of something you use in the dark.


----------



## pulstar (Aug 7, 2009)

freeride21a said:


> Kinda funny how people are complaining about the anodizing color of something you use in the dark.


 
 Good one!


----------



## Size15's (Aug 7, 2009)

SureFire's anodisation is a functional performance (thickness) finish - individual components are anodised in batches as this allows for more uniform performance characteristics compared with anodising the 'whole flashlight' in one go. Different sizes, shapes (mass / surface area etc) require different anodisation processing to achieve the same quality (thickness). 

I would have expected to give us Flashaholics more credit for having a deeper and more technical understanding and appreciation of flashlight design & manufacture whereas there does seem to be a challenge to explain things over and over again.

Mil. Spec. (MIL-A-8625) Type III Hard Anodisation is a performance finish for tools not a cosmetic finish for toys. The hint is the name - Military Specification.

Of course when we invest what for most of us is a not-inconsiderable sum of money is a SureFire flashlight we can tend to forget what we know about SureFire and set our expectations to an altogether different set of criteria to what SureFire do and always have done.

I don't understand why we so often set ourselves up for disappointment when there is so much written and discussed about SureFire on CPF. Nothing should come as a surprise. Our expectations should be perfectly managed. Perhaps we can not be happy with our SureFire products unless we feel there is something wrong with them?

Al :green:


----------



## DimeRazorback (Aug 7, 2009)

Great post Size15's!

I personally have no issue with the anodising what so ever, and I still believe it just adds character.

Upon receiving my A2L today, I did not even _notice_ the mismatch, until it was pointed out to me...

I look at them as quality products with military and law enforcement in mind when they are being made, and not how they will look on a shelf :thumbsup:

That's just my opinion of cause :thumbsup:


----------



## KDOG3 (Aug 7, 2009)

Well I don't mind the fact that individual parts are going to come out differently in the anodizing bath. As long as they try to get the light to look cool doing the two-tone thing with the parts, thats fine with me.


----------



## Numbers (Aug 7, 2009)

I think we accept less than a perfect ano match because after buying a number of SF lights costing $200 we get over the sticker shock and accept it. I know that if I paid that kind of money for my first decent light I would expect everything about it to be perfect. I dont think it is unreasonable for someone going from a $20 mag light to a $200 SF to expect anything less than perfection. SF does not care and it appears neither do most returning SF buyers. Although I accept it, it's still a bit sad.


----------



## MSaxatilus (Aug 7, 2009)

> I think we accept less than a perfect ano match because after buying a number of SF lights costing $200 we get over the sticker shock and accept it. I know that if I paid that kind of money for my first decent light I would expect everything about it to be perfect. I dont think it is unreasonable for someone going from a $20 mag light to a $200 SF to expect anything less than perfection. SF does not care and it appears neither do most returning SF buyers. Although I accept it, it's still a bit sad.


 
After Size15's attempted above still does not resonate.... I don't know why I am going to try this, but here it goes.

You are obviously looking at a Surefire light from the prespective of a crazed CPF community/fan, rather than Surefire's customer BASE. I fall victom to this as well. But, keep in mind that Surefire designs tools for LE, Military, etc. not CPFers. That base ranks runtime, beam quality, durability, and reliability way over cosmetics. If CPFers were Surefire's main client base, I bet we'd have perfectly matching anodization in multiple colors.

Another way to look at it....When you got to buy a car, you want a nice paint job and the car looks beautiful when you pull it off the lot. You take it home and wash it and wax and spend alot of time keeping it looking beautiful. When the Military buys a new Hummer it is painted boring old flat desert sand. Because a high-gloss candy-apple red clear coat will not hold up to the riggors of the job it was desinged to do and the environment it will see. Kindof a strange analogy, but its sortof the same. My point is cosmetics is far down the list of important features, theyby we get imperfectly colored anodization. But the dark ano vs. light ano will protect the light just the same, and that's what's most important to the bulk of Surefire users (not us CPFers).

Hope you get my point.

MSax


----------



## gottawearshades (Aug 7, 2009)

I'd have to agree. I think realistically I am seldom trying to see anything more than 150 meters out in the daytime, other than. . . the landscape.




pjandyho said:


> Thanks for the explanation. I think 100m seems good enough and it seems that most new lights are able to meet this spec IMHO.


----------



## Numbers (Aug 7, 2009)

Enumerating the reasons for the mis match does not make it, in my opinion, any less disheartening - especially for a first time buyer with high expectations. I said I accept it, That's all. 
When the Hummer comes out of the factory it is all the same color, but even if it werent the user would not care because we paid for it he did not, I accept that as well.


PS as I write this my LX2 just now arrived in my office. 
Opening the package now.......


----------



## pulstar (Aug 7, 2009)

I'm so jealous at you at the moment....:huh:



Numbers said:


> Enumerating the reasons for the mis match does not make it, in my opinion, any less disheartening - especially for a first time buyer with high expectations. I said I accept it, That's all.
> When the Hummer comes out of the factory it is all the same color, but even if it werent the user would not care because we paid for it he did not, I accept that as well.
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## MSaxatilus (Aug 7, 2009)

> PS as I write this my LX2 just now arrived in my office.
> Opening the package now.......


 
Welcome to the club!!:thumbsup:

I have to say, I absolutely HATE optics. But Surefire I think has finally turned me around, with this latest version in the LX2. I can totally live with mine and I've been thrilled with it.

MSax


----------



## RobertM (Aug 7, 2009)

Size15's said:


> SureFire's anodisation is a functional performance (thickness) finish - individual components are anodised in batches as this allows for more uniform performance characteristics compared with anodising the 'whole flashlight' in one go. Different sizes, shapes (mass / surface area etc) require different anodisation processing to achieve the same quality (thickness).
> 
> I would have expected to give us Flashaholics more credit for having a deeper and more technical understanding and appreciation of flashlight design & manufacture whereas there does seem to be a challenge to explain things over and over again.
> 
> ...



I understand your explanation and it makes perfect sense as to why certain parts will have different coloring. But with that being said, SF has produced matching parts in the past, meaning that it _can_ be done. I have some SF lights that are mismatched and others that are near perfect, and to be honest, it's not that big of deal.

My problem with my LX2 wasn't just the mismatched ano or even the slightly green beam tint, but mainly the smudged optic. It was the combination that prompted me to call SF. Honestly, before noticing the smudge, I was happy to keep the light as-is. The smudged optic put me over the edge.


Don't get me wrong, I love SureFire and truly believe they make the very best flashlights in the world and I'm obviously willing to pay the price they ask for them.

In the end, what exactly are we buying from SF? An indestructible, mil-spec anodized aluminum tube, or a high quality tool that produces light? When the optic is mudged and you get to play the tint lottery, I'm thinking it's an indestructible aluminum tube first, and a light emitting device second. 

Maybe I should just stick to SF's incans. :laughing:


----------



## Numbers (Aug 7, 2009)

When I get home I will compare output to some of my other lights and expect to be impressed.

Must say though that the ano matching on mine is pretty good between the body and tail switch, only the head is different - but not of concern, not objectionable.

That said, the led is not centered in the optic so I dont have a nice round hot spot. It is a bit mal formed. But that is on a white wall 15 feet away.

Also on the white wall I have 2 very green and wide rings at the outer edge of the spill beam. I dont recall seeing these rings commented on before. Is it normal?? They are ugly.


----------



## Size15's (Aug 7, 2009)

RobertM said:


> SF has produced matching parts in the past, meaning that it _can_ be done.


Good point. We notice difference from the norm. If there was always variation then it wouldn't be an issue. However, there can often be less variation and this, because it looks better, becomes the 'pattern' we see in the randomness.
I would also add that SureFire marketing may not help themselves by creating more uniform products through the publishing process where images, like text and graphics are designed. Sometimes what appears to be a photo of a product is actually a high-resolution rendering giving the designer freedom and the options to create and deliver the whole message without having to resort to re-shoots etc.



> My problem with my LX2 [was] mainly the smudged optic.


It seems that as long as the beam is not visibly impacted by the smudged fingerprint then in SureFire's practical terms - the product does what it is designed to. It's not an issue. Same goes for the 'tint lottery' we CPFers get some excited about. 



> In the end, what exactly are we buying from SF? An indestructible, mil-spec anodized aluminum tube, or a high quality tool that produces light? When the optic is mudged and you get to play the tint lottery, I'm thinking it's an indestructible aluminum tube first, and a light emitting device second.


I think the fact that SureFire consider mis-matched anodising, smudges/hairs/dust on the optics, and less-than-desirable-tints to be 'acceptable' means they consider their products to be light emitting devices _first_. To use SureFire's terminology - they make illumination tools with far less emphasis on cosmetic considerations such as perfect looking finish, smudge-free (etc) optics and the perfect tinted beam.

Of course SureFire understand they have a small number of customers who have very high expectations against characteristics SureFire doesn't consider as important and where possible SureFire have made efforts to support these customers by replacing products if they are particularily disappointed with the beam or finish etc.


----------



## Monocrom (Aug 7, 2009)

Size15's said:


> I think the fact that SureFire consider mis-matched anodising, smudges/hairs/dust on the optics, and less-than-desirable-tints to be 'acceptable' means they consider their products to be light emitting devices _first_. To use SureFire's terminology - they make illumination tools with far less emphasis on cosmetic considerations such as perfect looking finish, smudge-free (etc) optics and the perfect tinted beam.
> 
> Of course SureFire understand they have a small number of customers who have very high expectations against characteristics SureFire doesn't consider as important and where possible SureFire have made efforts to support these customers by replacing products if they are particularily disappointed with the beam or finish etc.


 
Surefire has been consistant over the years. To me, it has been a combination of questionable business practices combined with fantastic products. Like dating a Super Model with the emotional stability of a hurricane, you put up with the headaches because the "product" is so _fine_. But you worry, because you know there's a good chance that the product will degrade. With physical good-looks, it's pretty much going to happen somewhere down the road. With high-end lights, it's something that can be helped.

A company with questionable business practices, often means it's just a matter of time before the fantastic products begin slipping in quality. (It's the main reason why I bought each and every single Surefire model I wanted, as soon as I learned that Surefire existed... And then learned of some of the company's business practices). 

Very early on, I bought cheap, No-Name, lights from China. Still have a couple lying around the house. While the tint on some of them isn't the greatest, the internals are decent. I have lights from more expensive Made-in-China brands. Things such as smudges, hairs, or dust on the optics or inside the reflectors would be unacceptable; and don't exist on the lights I've bought. Even companies based in China are aware that such a thing would be unacceptable.

I don't care about mis-matched ano. If someone wants a pretty pony, there are far better choices than an LX2; or any other HA Surefire model. But to have foreign matter inside the head or inside the reflector? And Surefire considers that to be "acceptable?" Let's just say, I'm glad I stocked up on Surefire models before the company became so _accepting_.

When a company is known for making high-end lights that are far from cheap, they should not be surprised if their customers have high-end expectations; especially in terms of quality.


----------



## Paul5M (Aug 7, 2009)

MSaxatilus said:


> You are obviously looking at a Surefire light from the prespective of a crazed CPF community/fan, rather than Surefire's customer BASE. I fall victom to this as well. But, keep in mind that Surefire designs tools for LE, Military, etc. not CPFers. That base ranks runtime, beam quality, durability, and reliability way over cosmetics. If CPFers were Surefire's main client base, I bet we'd have perfectly matching anodization in multiple colors.
> 
> Hope you get my point.
> 
> MSax


:shakehead :shakehead :shakehead

Surefire tries to sell its products to everyone even _Joe the plumber_.
Now we can buy Surefire products from a hardware store. What's next?


----------



## HKJ (Aug 7, 2009)

MSaxatilus said:


> When the Military buys a new Hummer it is painted boring old flat desert sand.



But still only one color, not different colors for doors and hood etc.

I wonder why a hi-tech company like SF can not control the color better, small variations can happen, but some of the examples are rather big variations.


----------



## Kiessling (Aug 7, 2009)

The purpose of the coating is not color. Hence color is not important. 
It is interesting though that we are discussing the unimportant things.
Over and over again. 

Speaks volumes about the quality of the discussions on CPF these days. The usefulness of what can be read is greatly diminished I think. 

Then again ... that's IMHO, of course, and everyone has different priorities. 

bernie


----------



## Numbers (Aug 7, 2009)

Well, I am over the colors also, she actually looks better the more I look at her.
I am even (just about) over the somewhat off center led.
But will someone PLEASE comment on the green rings my light has at the outer edge of the spill beam?
I will be over that too if the other LX2's out there exhibit the same characteristic.
Does your LX2 have those outer green rings?
Thanks for your input!


----------



## milkyspit (Aug 7, 2009)

Numbers said:


> Well, I am over the colors also, she actually looks better the more I look at her.
> I am even (just about) over the somewhat off center led.
> But will someone PLEASE comment on the green rings my light has at the outer edge of the spill beam?
> I will be over that too if the other LX2's out there exhibit the same characteristic.
> ...




I don't have an LX2 to compare, but it sounds like the green rings MIGHT be an artifact produced by the LED seating off-center under the optic. I've worked with a number of similar heads... E2DL, E1B, KX2, and such... and every once in a while the LED and optic just aren't quite aligned properly in the head. It could also be a product of a glue overspill that impeded on part of the optical area inside the head. You might want to consider exchanging for another LX2, which your dealer and even SureFire directly ought to be able to take care of without much of a hassle. It just sounds like your specific piece might be a little off.


----------



## Kiessling (Aug 7, 2009)

No green rings here, just some discoloration at the outer edges of the beam, not annoying. If the were brighter though they could detract the eyes, not because of the color, but because of the light in a place where it doesn't need to be. 
bernie


----------



## MikeF (Aug 7, 2009)

FWIW, the LX2 I received has been a great tool for what I use it for. Mainly having enough throw to let me see overhead power lines above my TV Microwave Truck BEFORE I elevate the 48 foot mast, to make sure there are no overhead power lines to end my shift early and permanently. It is a critical tool for me that has performed flawlessly. I am quite frequently asked to perform under tight deadlines in the dark and I know I can depend upon my Surefires. I have a 5 year old TW4 that looks like brand new despite being carried every day for years alongside a Leatherman Crunch and a large kryring of keys. No scratches and a very tough exterior. The LX-2 also has no scratches. The TW-5 is not my backup anymore since the flood beam pattern of the Original Luxeon 5-Watt doesn't have quite the throw I need. My current backup EDC is a Quark 123-2. It has lost a lot of paint from the clip and the edges of the anodizing are showing a little bare aluminum but I really don't care! It has enough reach most of the time when I've loaned my Lx2 to friends from other TV stations to find dropped items or make a quick trip to the woods to make a leave a DNA sample at a remote location and not fall into a ditch. To make a long story short (I know, too late), for what I want a flashlight for, mainly reliability, efficiency, and durability, they don't get any better than Surefire.


----------



## Numbers (Aug 8, 2009)

This is my LX2 beam. Pictures are bounced off of a white ceiling at a distance of 3-4 feet.
The first 2 pictures make the problem appear worse than it seem in real life while the last 2 pictures make it look better than in real life. 
I dont know why the camera takes such variations in the shots but it's a $250 point and shoot.
What do you think? (beside that I should get better at photography)


----------



## KDOG3 (Aug 8, 2009)

Just got my new one today. Doesn't have quite the perfect round beam the first one did, but still pretty good. Tint is about the same as my first one. No green on low, unless I just can't see it. I think I'll hold on to this one. Now I need someone to buy my E1B to take the $$$ bite out of this purchase!


----------



## Blindasabat (Aug 8, 2009)

I've worked in plating/Ano baths before and this is exactly what happens. When making natural HA there is always variation between lots. And a volume manufacturer like SF sends in every component separately for consistant thickness and strength (the important things as opposed to mixing different parts together just for color. Mixing different geometry parts will make the anodizing quality vary between parts because the current flow will not be the same for every part. What SF is doing is far better than trying to match color. And I suspect the predominance of dyed ano is used to cover up color variation across each single part that results from uneven current through the ano bath. We used to spend a lot of time designing the racks we hung the parts on to assure even current. That is impossible to do with mixed parts and the result is always uneven ano.
I prefer to see what SF is doing compared to what some others are doing. I have, use, and enjoy many brands of lights, but respect SF methods more.


DM51 said:


> It probably happens because the separate parts, rather than whole lights, are anodised together. In other words, all the tailcaps are done in one bath, all the bodies in another, the heads in a third... I don't know, but I guess that is what happens. They probably try to achieve uniformity, but there are bound to be some variations if it is done that way.


Because all the 'complaints' in this thread are quite mundane, I am actually tempted to get an LX2 - it must be a spectacular light.


----------



## SCblur (Aug 8, 2009)

Blindasabat said:


> Because all the 'complaints' in this thread are extremely mundane, I am actually tempted to get an LX2 - it must be a spectacular light.


 
It's my new favorite light by a long mile. I just ordered my second copy as a matter of fact, and I hated optics prior to this light. The beam has really grown on me, and I love the reach it has. The best throw from any LED light I've personally owned. I also love that it is nearly as complact as my original L4, with twice the output and better runtime with two stages. There's not much I'd change about it.


----------



## Kiessling (Aug 8, 2009)

Numbers, this is roughly what I see with mine. A TIR beam won't win a beauty contest. But outside, I don't know any better. The outer rings are not brihgt enough to be a disturbance to me, but I guess this is a very subjective thing to say. 

For example, the outer rings of the Photon Microlights are more disturbing than those rings to me.

bernie


----------



## Optik49 (Aug 8, 2009)

I just got a SF diffuser cap for my LX2 and It works great. I highly recommend it! The LX2 has a nice defused/ flood beam with it and when you need more throw just pop it off. A must have for the LX2. My A2 just arrived today and I was messing around with the both after dark. If you gave me a choice between the two and I could also have the diffuser cap on the LX2, I would take the LX2. The flood is brighter and more diffused. The overall output is a lot better and again when you need more throw just pop it off.


----------



## richardcpf (Aug 8, 2009)

I share the point with the people who see the defects of this brand and complain about its products, but everytime a "surefire vs whatever else" discussion starts, the same thing happens... people who are against this brand are always wrong, even if they are right. 

Just imagine if a Fenix (or any other quality brand flashlight) came with 2-tone HA, akward beam shape and greenish rings. I guess the owner would instantly create a thread talking about how ugly his flashlight is, and then he would proceed to a product return. But... what if that flashlight was a Surefire? 

Don't get me wrong, my intention is not to insult anybody or bash the brand, in fact, I think I'm getting the LX2 as my first sf. Mainly because of the rated 200 lumens, secondly, it is a surefire, and I want to know how does it feel owning a surefire. Is it really that great? I don't know.. but i might fall in love with it.


----------



## Wattnot (Aug 8, 2009)

richardcpf said:


> I share the point with the people who see the defects of this brand and complain about its products, but everytime a "surefire vs whatever else" discussion starts, the same thing happens... people who are against this brand are always wrong, even if they are right.


 
I don't believe the people posting in this thread and pointing out the many problems surfacing with this light are "against Surefire." On the contrary, even the strongest complaints are from _disappointed_ *fans*. Nobody here is against SF. 

People are upset with the multi-colored anno. Yes, even the people who try and defend it (why?) are upset, they just don't want to show it.

People are upset with the off center LED.

People are upset with the green tint and tint lottery overall.

People are upset with dirt INSIDE the sealed reflector/lens assembly. 

People are upset SF doesn't care too much about this when other, lesser manufactures do. 

People are upset because we LOVE SF and are disappointed. We're not against SF. We're just disappointed, that's all.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Aug 8, 2009)

> Just imagine if a Fenix (or any other quality brand flashlight) came with 2-tone HA, akward beam shape and greenish rings. I guess the owner would instantly create a thread talking about how ugly his flashlight is, and then he would proceed to a product return. But... what if that flashlight was a Surefire?


 
Well, if it was a SF we'd be told that the mismatched HA adds character to the light, the beam shape doesn't matter since it's an 'illumination tool' and the green rings are worse on a coin cell keychain light.

Just kidding, of course...

Anyway, I lubed the tailcap of my LX2 with some Nyogel and the o-ring doesn't bind as easily but I still have to be careful not to pinch it if I change batteries from the bottom.


----------



## Hugo2x (Aug 9, 2009)

At $195 US, the light should be perfect out of the box period. If mismatched anodization is common with the light, then it should be advertised as such on there website.


----------



## Numbers (Aug 9, 2009)

Wattnot is right at least as far as my case goes. I am a disappointed SF fan.
I purposely did not order a first run LX2, I wanted to see what others here had to say first.

I saw no mention of any green rings before I purchased from the second batch. Imagine my surprise and disappointmernt when I first saw them. 

Even after posting my concern there has been little confirmation of "my ring problem" it certainly is not universal (I thank those who did offer comments), so perhaps my light is just a particularly bad example of the LX2. I will take it up with SF - probably ending up spending more on this light to send it back.

I will say this though, I also wanted an A2L and Saint, when available - but that's not happening at least for now - I am actually afraid of being disappointed again.

I am now just telling myself it's "just a light", "it's just a light", it will be obsolete in 3 years anyway. Disappointing.


----------



## StandardBattery (Aug 9, 2009)

I purchased two in the second round, one sn 23xxxx the other 37xxxx. While both had very different tints, neither one had any green ring issue. They both had the head with the brownish/copper colored anno compared to the body. I think if that is the way the anno will look their website pictures should reflect it. All the marketing shots show perfectlly matched pieces. If they are saying the color is unimportant (and I don't necessarily disagree), then their marketing photos should reflect that. You don't see a picture of a yellow car and and expect a green one.

As I think someone else mentioned, an off centered led may accentuate the green ring/tint issue.

I sold one on marketplace for a lot less than $195, someone got a great deal, but there were not many shoppers. Crazy people wanted to pay more else where I guess (it was the weekend though and I wanted to move it fast). That one had a perfectly centered LED and it was also precisely vertically positioned; it produced a perfectly round sharp focused spot. The one I kept is a little less focused.

So tint (no surprise), focus (a little surprising), centering (they should fix this), and annodizing (not uncommon, but this is an extreme case) variations all exist on this product. I can understand people wanting a little more precise control, or information on where the variables are. Not to mention what is exactly in spec, and what is out of spec. 

Cosmetics are more important to some than others, but since marketing focuses on that then it is not unjustified for consumers to expect what is advertised. If they are buying a wrench, light, or yardstick they should receive exactly what they've been told and led to believe is the product (that includes color). Not a close approximation, that is almost what is advertised.

I'm pretty happy with the LX2, it's not really a big upgrade (or evenan upgrade at all) from the E2DL (my sample), but it's a different interface. Outdoors the TIR optic on this light is actually quite nice and functionable. It's a little more discrete than some high powered lights and well suited to darkened pathways. They have also managed to create enough spill that the light seems pretty natural.

So all in all, they have a nice compact high powered light, with an interface you will like, or not like. 

I'm actually moving away from 2xCR123A lights, but this light is a good performer for that platform. Of course if it was twice as bright it would be twice as good, but then I might need 3 levels instead of 2.


----------



## Kiessling (Aug 9, 2009)

> people who are against this brand


This little quote is the truly disturbing part. Being against a brand? :thinking:
And what about the lights? 

When someone is "against a brand" then they can't quite discuss the lights of said brand in a way that advances the knowledge of a community like CPF.

Against a brand?


----------



## Federal LG (Aug 9, 2009)

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Well, if it was a SF we'd be told that the mismatched HA adds character to the light, the beam shape doesn't matter since it's an 'illumination tool' and the green rings are worse on a coin cell keychain light.
> 
> Just kidding, of course...
> 
> Anyway, I lubed the tailcap of my LX2 with some Nyogel and the o-ring doesn't bind as easily but I still have to be careful not to pinch it if I change batteries from the bottom.


----------



## Monocrom (Aug 9, 2009)

Yup, another disappointed Surefire fan. I own 14 Surefires, and other than the mis-matched ano; am surprised & disappointed at some of the issues already popping up with this light. 

Most of my Surefires were purchased at B&M shops. We have several Authorized Surefire dealers in New York City. Definitely an advantage. I'll wait until one of those dealers has the LX2 in stock. Then I'll look through their stock for one without smudges on the inside of the optic, and for one with a centered LED. It's ridiculous that something like that has to be done with a light costing $200.


----------



## cue003 (Aug 9, 2009)

Optik49 said:


> I just got a SF diffuser cap for my LX2 and It works great. I highly recommend it! The LX2 has a nice defused/ flood beam with it and when you need more throw just pop it off. A must have for the LX2. My A2 just arrived today and I was messing around with the both after dark. If you gave me a choice between the two and I could also have the diffuser cap on the LX2, I would take the LX2. The flood is brighter and more diffused. The overall output is a lot better and again when you need more throw just pop it off.



I 100% agree on the Diffuser. i got one for my LX2 early on and have been liking the setup quite a bit. 

The setup made me change my mind about buying the A2L. However, I may not have the same feeling when the AZ2 is released.


----------



## leon2245 (Aug 10, 2009)

Re: mismatching anodization- it depends on the overall appearance (I.E. shiny brown & flat gray vs. complimentary shades of similar luster). Also, "two-tone" looks better if they're each on distinct shapes, vs. just a multicolored tube design. Looks more intentional.

So S.F. played the "illumination tool/museum piece" card against complaints about beam tint, but said they _would_ address mismatched anodization? If either one of those were legitimate complaints strictly about an illumination tool, it would be beam tint over body COLOR. A perfectly matching exterior is more in pursuit of a museum piece, assuming equal protection & no bare spots etc.


----------



## pulstar (Aug 10, 2009)

Does anyone know how many people had offcentered leds or very strange tints? In every production there's a % of products that aren't good enough and there is even smaller piece of them that evade quality check and actually come on store shelfs. 
Like lots of you said: If SF advertised LX2 as a two or more tone light there wouldn't be all these rabble about it.(Just check new a2l's package) But overall, it's a good light and i'll probably get one for myself. 200lm, TIR, throw and compactness are all gathered in a really nice package. Maybe i'll finally get my first SF..:twothumbs:naughty:


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Aug 10, 2009)

I would guess that CPF is maybe %0.01 of SF's customer base. (If that!) They sell a whole mess of lights, hundreds of thousands. Look at the LX2 serial # registry thread, its a drop in the bucket.

The average SF customer wouldnt think anything of the mismatched ano, or even think to consider the "bulb" being of center, and they sure as hell dont white wall hunt, so rings go un-noticed.

Just pointing out the facts. :devil:


----------



## Silvaccordex01 (Aug 10, 2009)

My X Serial LX2 is perfect. The anodizing matches, no green rings, no smudges, centered LED. 

It seems like the people that have the ones with the most "problems'" the serial starts with an A or are the 2nd run batches. Maybe im wrong, but thats just the way it seems.


----------



## Numbers (Aug 10, 2009)

Just for the record, the rings my light produces are as clearly visible outside at night as they are on a white wall inside - when they have something to bounce off of - and they always have, at a minimum, the ground in front of me to reflect off of. I have not checked the diatance at which they become unnoticable but I can always see them out in front of me reflecting off of the ground.


----------



## Tom Slick (Aug 10, 2009)

Any chance of being able to throw a cigar ring on it?

Possibly these:
http://www.surefire.com/CombatRings

I'm looking for a new duty light capable of being held in cigar grip with a pistol. I really like the UI on this light giving me the option to have both low and high light levels without any adjustment of grip.


----------



## Robert_M (Aug 10, 2009)

I love my LX2, but I carry my SF Z2 with Malkoff M60 when I want to use a flashlight with my handgun ... it works very nicely.


----------



## Harry999 (Aug 10, 2009)

I was lucky enough to get one of the first run LX2 flashlights that arrived in the UK. I carry this all the time with an FO4 diffuser cap on. The UI is excellent, the clip is excellent in giving me the bezel down carry I wanted, the finish won't damage my smart business trousers and the lanyard hooked to the belt means I don't worry about losing it.

I really can't recommend the FO4 diffuser enough. Initially you light up the area with a decent flood and then if you want more throw just pop the diffuser off and you have a very decent thrower. 

This is pretty much my go to light at the moment...


----------



## Badbeams3 (Aug 10, 2009)

Question...can this light run on 2x123 LI-ION batts? Or a 17670 batt?


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Aug 10, 2009)

> Question...can this light run on 2x123 LI-ION batts? Or a 17670 batt?


 
My LX2 runs great on AW RCR123's but AW 17670's are too wide to fit in the tube.


----------



## Badbeams3 (Aug 10, 2009)

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> My LX2 runs great on AW RCR123's but AW 17670's are too wide to fit in the tube.



Thanks!


----------



## StandardBattery (Aug 10, 2009)

Tom Slick said:


> Any chance of being able to throw a cigar ring on it?
> 
> Possibly these:
> http://www.surefire.com/CombatRings
> ...


 
I don't know if those rings could be fitted, but it seemd like whatever solution you find the clip will have to be removed. Or maybe if you didn't mind putting that right over the clip it would be the right size, but that would probably be a bit ugly. It seems like with the Grip Rings you showed they would be too large unless you wrapped the light, but there much be something (other than the far O-Ring) for eseries sized boties.


----------



## pulstar (Aug 11, 2009)

Harry999 said:


> I was lucky enough to get one of the first run LX2 flashlights that arrived in the UK. I carry this all the time with an FO4 diffuser cap on. The UI is excellent, the clip is excellent in giving me the bezel down carry I wanted, the finish won't damage my smart business trousers and the lanyard hooked to the belt means I don't worry about losing it.
> 
> I really can't recommend the FO4 diffuser enough. Initially you light up the area with a decent flood and then if you want more throw just pop the diffuser off and you have a very decent thrower.
> 
> This is pretty much my go to light at the moment...


 
Where did you buy your lx2 in UK?!


----------



## Owen (Aug 11, 2009)

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> My LX2 runs great on AW RCR123's but AW 17670's are too wide to fit in the tube.


Does the low mode regulate 2xR123 so brightness is the same as it is with primaries?
I've been wondering about the circuitry, after reading that the tailcap resistor signals the electronics in the head, rather than the output being dependant on the resistor value and battery voltage.
Suddenly I'm more interested in the LX2. 


Anybody...
How well does the old bezel up clip fit the LX2? 
Doesn't look like length would be an issue.


----------



## Monocrom (Aug 11, 2009)

Owen said:


> How well does the old bezel up clip fit the LX2?
> Doesn't look like length would be an issue.


 
Fits fine....
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/238867


----------



## Owen (Aug 11, 2009)

Thank you. I was thinking about the long clip, which is why I mentioned length.

Great, another chink in the armor of my resolve


----------



## Harry999 (Aug 11, 2009)

pulstar said:


> Where did you buy your lx2 in UK?!



I purchased it at Heinnie Haynes.


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Aug 11, 2009)

> Does the low mode regulate 2xR123 so brightness is the same as it is with primaries?


 
As far as I can tell it does.


----------



## xpawel18x (Aug 11, 2009)

Hi, I just received my LX2 a few hours ago, after inspecting the light thoroughly, I have a couple of question for other LX2 owners.

First, does your LX2 come on, on low mode when you push the tailcap down with your fingers? (Without clicking the button, just pushing the tailcap down)
I found my LX2 will turn on low when the tailcap is pushed down with my fingers. But only when it is twisted down far enough.

Second, I put the tailcap area of the flashlight next to my ear and when pressing from low to high mode, I hear an electrical buzzing sound. Especially when not depressed all the way on high. And when switching from low to high modes. I wanted to know if this is normal.

Thanks.


----------



## RobertM (Aug 11, 2009)

xpawel18x said:


> Hi, I just received my LX2 a few hours ago, after inspecting the light thoroughly, I have a couple of question for other LX2 owners.
> 
> First, does your LX2 come on, on low mode when you push the tailcap down with your fingers? (Without clicking the button, just pushing the tailcap down)
> I found my LX2 will turn on low when the tailcap is pushed down with my fingers. But only when it is twisted down far enough.
> ...



Yes, this is normal. Some play with the threads is likely causing your first issue. The buzzing is present in all of my lights that use they same style of tailcap (including my LX2 that I tried before sending it to SF).

-Robert


----------



## SCblur (Aug 11, 2009)

RobertM said:


> Yes, this is normal. Some play with the threads is likely causing your first issue. The buzzing is present in all of my lights that use they same style of tailcap (including my LX2 that I tried before sending it to SF).
> 
> -Robert



+1


----------



## Entrope (Aug 11, 2009)

Hail all,
I actually found a pretty immediate solution to the clip touching the tailcap problem after I got my light... heatshrink.

(I do quite a bit of custom cabling hence I do have most tools necessary for making cables including a fair amount of heatshrink which is pretty useful for more than just making cables.)

Found one which was a nice fit around the clip and cut it for the entire length of the clip (adds some character and personalization to the light as well)... after heating it up the heatshrink wrapped nicely over the clip and have no scratching problems anymore 


Regards,
Entrope


----------



## pulstar (Aug 13, 2009)

Very nice solution! Can you post a picture how does the light look like?


----------



## pjandyho (Aug 13, 2009)

Well, I finally got my LX2 today. As I suspected, the ano is mismatched. Although some photos posted here earlier looks kind of horrible, the actual unit does look good (like it was done deliberately in view of aesthetics). But I still felt that it should have a matching ano in the first place, whatever...

My first impression was, "WOW! It sure is a beautiful illumination tool!" The beam is white on high and slightly warm white on low. Some have claimed that the tint is greenish on low but for people like me who has owned an L1 with a green beam, this new LX2's tint is really a big welcome.

It is not fair to compare the LX2 to the L1, but that is all I have to compare it with as I don't own the E2DL. The brightness is a lot higher on the LX2 on high mode (about 2 1/2 times more) and there is not really any difference on the low mode between both lights.

I next compared it to the Fenix TA21 which is rated at 200 lumens on high. At around 200 meters, Fenix TA21 does seem maybe about 15 lumens brighter on the hotspot but the LX2 gives a hotspot about 2 times bigger than the TA21. Size wise, LX2 is a lot smaller and more compact compared to the Fenix. My vote goes to the LX2 in terms of portability and flood capability at longer ranges. As the LX2 utilizes TIR optics to project the beam, it is understood that the beam does exhibit some ring-like patterns on the side spill but is not really noticeable in actual use whereas the TA21 has a rather smooth side spill. All in all, LX2 does have very useable side spill, especially on high mode. My LED on the LX2 is well centred against the TIR optics which is a big relieve considering some have complained about LEDs being off-centred.

One thing that bugs me is that when I opened up the LX2 to have a look in the tube, I do notice that the screw threads and internal space of the tube seems to be the color of bare metal. What happens to the chem coating that we used to have on all Surefire lights which gives the internal body the golden color? What I see in the LX2 is just plain aluminum color. In case some of you may not know, chem coating was used to prevent corrosion on the light should there be an accidental leakage into the unit by water, and lights that are chem coated should exhibit a golden or copper like tint on the metal surface inside instead of silver. Or has chem coating evolved to a colorless version? I guess I want to know that after paying a premium price for the unit, it better have some engineering bells and whistles in there.

Overall, I would say that I loved this light a lot and I guess it would be my goto light for trekking and camping. Gone are the days which I would pack an M6 for throw, and an E1L for general usage. Although the LX2 cannot exactly replace the M6, the fact that it is powerful enough to see details clearly at 100 meters, is small in package, has 2 stage power, and is powerful enough for almost 95% of all my needs makes it capable of replacing the M6 in view of space and weight.

I hope you guys would love this light as much as I do.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Aug 13, 2009)

Pjandyho, nice write up. Sounds like you are happy!!

Mine is perfect, but it is a X run, where it seems most of the X run LX2's were top notch.

I think I read somewhere that the new coating is clear on the inside of the tubes... :thumbsup:


----------



## Kestrel (Aug 13, 2009)

pjandyho said:


> One thing that bugs me is that when I opened up the LX2 to have a look in the tube, I do notice that the screw threads and internal space of the tube seems to be the color of bare metal. What happens to the chem coating that we used to have on all Surefire lights which gives the internal body the golden color? What I see in the LX2 is just plain aluminum color. In case some of you may not know, chem coating was used to prevent corrosion on the light should there be an accidental leakage into the unit by water, and lights that are chem coated should exhibit a golden or copper like tint on the metal surface inside instead of silver. Or has chem coating evolved to a colorless version? I guess I want to know that after paying a premium price for the unit, it better have some engineering bells and whistles in there.


I've read a number of times here on CPF that SureFire has altered their 'Chem coating' process and now appears colorless - it has been suggested that their updated process is more environmentally friendly, Size15 might have posted that specific info but I can't recall for sure.


----------



## pjandyho (Aug 13, 2009)

That would be very nice. As long as there is chem coating involved I don't really care what color it may be.

Oh, and PoliceScannerMan, my LX2 serial is A06699. Nice number on a nice light.


----------



## Kiessling (Aug 13, 2009)

Yes, Al said they use a new colorless chemfilm now to comply with some obscure regulations, IIRC.
bernie


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic (Aug 13, 2009)

Yes, all new SureFire lights now exhibit a 'silver' colored chemkote finish.


----------



## Size15's (Aug 13, 2009)

The Restriction of Hazardous Substances (RoHS) directive restricts the use of mercury, lead, hexavalent chromium, cadmium and a range of flame retardants notably polybrominated biphenyls and polybrominated diphenyl ethers. There are a number of exemptions for the use of the hazardous substances for specific technical uses where alternatives do not presently exist. There are also permissible maximum concentration values which allow for any trace presence.



SureFire said:


> SureFire is not just committed to producing the world's finest illumination tools™ and tactical equipment — we're also committed to making SureFire products as environmentally friendly as possible. Consequently, we engineer and manufacture products to be RoHS (Restriction of Hazardous Substances) and WEEE (Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment) compliant. All SureFire products and packaging shipped to destinations falling under the jurisdiction of RoHS and/or WEEE are tested and certified prior to shipping.


http://www.surefire.com/rohs-weee

Where there are alternatives such as in the case of the internal and threads protective finish this means no longer using the coloured Chem Film due to it containing hexavalent chromium.

RoHS and WEEE are not obscure regulations - they are for the 27 member states of the European Union of almost 500 million people and regulate our impact on the rest of the world through the waste we generate and how we should manage it. RoHS and WEE are for human health and environmental protection what CE is for safety. They ensure that products are not only assessed for their safety in use but also at the end of life too.

In this digital age the need to be responsible for our e-waste has never been greater. The impact illegal (or at the very least immoral) export of waste for processing in non-OECD countries such as China and India is having on human health and the environment is tragic, catastrophic and shaming all of us for our consumerism and greed.

Al


----------



## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Aug 13, 2009)

> SureFire is not just committed to producing the world's finest illumination tools™ and tactical equipment — we're also committed to making SureFire products as environmentally friendly as possible.


 
If Surefire is on this great enviromental kick, why don't they support renewable assets, i.e. rechargeable batteries for their lights?

I know, they sell a lot of nonrechargeable batteries but still, they could be a little more green in this area to save the whales etc.


----------



## DimeRazorback (Aug 13, 2009)

I think that would be because military use isn't really suitable with rechargables!


----------



## xpawel18x (Aug 13, 2009)

I finally had a few situations to test out the LX2. The tint is a little greenish, especially on low mode. High mode seems white, which is okay. Compared to my E2DL, the LX2's light is darker. But the LX2 has a bigger hotspot, illuminating a larger target, whereas the E2DL has a smaller hotspot, but appears brighter. But that may be because of the whiter color of the light. Other than the pocket clip rubbing the tailcap, it is a pretty decent light.


----------



## Bullzeyebill (Aug 13, 2009)

xpawel18x said:


> I finally had a few situations to test out the LX2. The tint is a little greenish, especially on low mode. High mode seems white, which is okay. Compared to my E2DL, the LX2's light is darker. But the LX2 has a bigger hotspot, illuminating a larger target, whereas the E2DL has a smaller hotspot, but appears brighter. But that may be because of the whiter color of the light. Other than the pocket clip rubbing the tailcap, it is a pretty decent light.



Purchase a reasonably priced lightmeter and you can do some real testing of your lights, comparing them with each other. You can do lux measurements at one meter, and do bounce with your lightmeter to compare one light against the other. Surprising what kind of info you can come up with and then you can make some assumptions about color of the beam affecting brightness, etc.

Bill


----------



## pjandyho (Aug 14, 2009)

Thanks Al and Bernie for the explanation in regards to the new alternatives to chem coating. If it is good for the environment and us, then I am all for it! I am a nature lover as well and I would very much prefer the lights to run on rechargeable like what Vox Clamatis in Deserto said, but I respect Surefire's point of view when they claimed that their lights are designed to run on primary batteries in view of stability.


----------



## Monocrom (Aug 14, 2009)

pjandyho said:


> Thanks Al and Bernie for the explanation in regards to the new alternatives to chem coating. If it is good for the environment and us, then I am all for it! I am a nature lover as well and I would very much prefer the lights to run on rechargeable like what Vox Clamatis in Deserto said, but I respect Surefire's point of view when they claimed that their lights are designed to run on primary batteries in view of stability.


 
Just use a 17670 in any Surefire C, P, and Z-series light. You can use RCR123 cells in any Surefire. (You just need to get the right Lumens Factory lamp to handle the increase in voltage). 

You don't need a custom body to handle 18650 or 18500 cells. (But it helps).


----------



## pjandyho (Aug 14, 2009)

Monocrom said:


> Just use a 17670 in any Surefire C, P, and Z-series light. You can use RCR123 cells in any Surefire. (You just need to get the right Lumens Factory lamp to handle the increase in voltage).
> 
> You don't need a custom body to handle 18650 or 18500 cells. (But it helps).


Help me to recall here. 17670 is one battery unit in equivalent to 2 pieces RCR123 in terms of length? Would it run well at 3.7v instead of 6v? What I have are some AW's protected RCR123. Would 2 pieces of RCR123 run well in the LX2? I recall reading earlier in this thread that the LX2 does get very hot with 2 pieces of RCR123 after running for a few minutes on high mode. Would I be frying the circuitry?


----------



## Monocrom (Aug 14, 2009)

pjandyho said:


> Help me to recall here. 17670 is one battery unit in equivalent to 2 pieces RCR123 in terms of length? Would it run well at 3.7v instead of 6v? What I have are some AW's protected RCR123. Would 2 pieces of RCR123 run well in the LX2? I recall reading earlier in this thread that the LX2 does get very hot with 2 pieces of RCR123 after running for a few minutes on high mode. Would I be frying the circuitry?


 
In terms of length, one 17670 equals two CR123 cells. AW Protected 17670 cells are 3.7volts each.

Surefire specifically tries to discourage use of rechargeable cells in their lights. I wouldn't risk running two RCR123 cells in the LX2. The difference between 6volts vs. 7.4volts could be enough to do some damage. I personally wouldn't risk it in an expensive light specifically set up for 6volts. But that's just me.


----------



## lotsalumens (Aug 14, 2009)

Got my LX2 a couple of weeks ago and like it a whole lot. The output really rocks, and though I've never like TIR optics for their low-spill tunnelvision effect, this one seems like a decent compromise between throw and spill. I do miss the grippy knurling of the older design however which seemed more functional.

I like the design of the clip, but extending over the tailcap seems like a design oversight. I don't care about scratches, but it makes it very difficult to use the twisty function. Might be fine on a clicky light, but not one one that requires the tailcap to be twisted for constant on (an interface I have loved since my old L4 and McE2s...great combo). Anyway I took the clip off mine and replaced it with the one from my old L4. It does not hold the light as well, but at least it does not interfere with the tailcap function.

I have never been a fan of TIR optics, but the LX2's beam is the best I've seen from an optic. I like the combination of throw and usable spill (not the rings though). The output from this light is really amazing and combined with a diffuser can make a great flood like the old L2 and L4.


----------



## mfrey (Aug 14, 2009)

xpawel18x said:


> I finally had a few situations to test out the LX2. The tint is a little greenish, especially on low mode. High mode seems white, which is okay. Compared to my E2DL, the LX2's light is darker. But the LX2 has a bigger hotspot, illuminating a larger target, whereas the E2DL has a smaller hotspot, but appears brighter. But that may be because of the whiter color of the light. Other than the pocket clip rubbing the tailcap, it is a pretty decent light.



I thought the same thing when I first got my LX2. My E2DL seemed brighter. I decided to try some beamshots to affirm my impressions. By shooting some underexposed shots and sampling the images in photoshop, it turns out that the LX2 is brighter, despite my impressions.

Here are my results, FWIW:





It might have something to due with the shape of the respective beams. The E2DL has a slightly smaller and more defined hotspot, perhaps making it appear brighter.


----------



## pjandyho (Aug 14, 2009)

lotsalumens said:


> I like the design of the clip, but extending over the tailcap seems like a design oversight. I don't care about scratches, but it makes it very difficult to use the twisty function. Might be fine on a clicky light, but not one one that requires the tailcap to be twisted for constant on (an interface I have loved since my old L4 and McE2s...great combo).



I second that in regards to the clip. Already 2nd day using the LX2 and I could see some minor scratches on the tail cap. I don't mind the scratches though but like you, I find the clip a hindrance to use with the rotary tail cap.


----------



## xpawel18x (Aug 14, 2009)

Thanks for posting your results, mfrey.

BTW, does anyone gently lift the end of the pocket clip when twisting the tailcap? That's what I've been doing, but in the middle of a pitch black forest I was hiking in yesterday, I had to stop babying the light and just twist it despite of the rubbing. It hurts me because I know eventually it will scratch the tailcap.


----------



## pjandyho (Aug 14, 2009)

xpawel18x said:


> BTW, does anyone gently lift the end of the pocket clip when twisting the tailcap?



I don't actually, just so as to satisfy my own curiosity as to how tough the anodizing can be. I recall reading somewhere in Surefire's website claiming the anodizing makes the light surface almost as tough as diamonds. If it really is as tough as diamonds, it shouldn't scratch so easily but one night with me and I already spotted some very fine and minor scratches on the tail cap. Btw, I don't really baby all my lights. I treat them like toys as well as tools.


----------



## DimeRazorback (Aug 14, 2009)

I do on my LX2 but not my A2L

:shrug:


----------



## seattlite (Aug 15, 2009)

Playing lego's last night, I decided to put the LX2 head on a 1 cell body(VG FB1) and the output was little bit brighter than my Novatac 120P running on 1xRCR123(3.7v). Combo make for a really nice compact EDC.


----------



## MikeF (Aug 15, 2009)

When I first noticed the contact I put an 1/8" (3mm) thick -210 Nitrile O-Ring to slightly lift the clip away from the body. It rests in in the groove close to the tailcap and lifts the clip away from the tailcap so there is no contact. Since then I also put 3 GITD 3/4" (19mm) O-rings on the LX-2 that I bought from Sigman in the CPFMarketplace I put one on each side of the Nitrile O-ring and one in the groove on the threaded end of the head. The GITD O-Rings are thinner stock so they are not thick enough by themselves to keep the clip from contacting the body. They are a better fit into the grooves on the head however.



xpawel18x said:


> BTW, does anyone gently lift the end of the pocket clip when twisting the tailcap? That's what I've been doing, but in the middle of a pitch black forest I was hiking in yesterday, I had to stop babying the light and just twist it despite of the rubbing. It hurts me because I know eventually it will scratch the tailcap.


 


pjandyho said:


> I don't actually, just so as to satisfy my own curiosity as to how tough the anodizing can be. I recall reading somewhere in Surefire's website claiming the anodizing makes the light surface almost as tough as diamonds. If it really is as tough as diamonds, it shouldn't scratch so easily but one night with me and I already spotted some very fine and minor scratches on the tail cap. Btw, I don't really baby all my lights. I treat them like toys as well as tools.


----------



## Menace915 (Aug 19, 2009)

I just got my LX2 today, and I think the mismatch doesn't look too bad. The beam color and throw was very good, but when I compared it to my black and silver E1B and to the E2DL I noticed that the beam was somewhat irregular. My previously mentioned SF lights offered a nearly perfect beam. This one looks somewhat like an oval shape. I've never had this problem with other TIR lights. Can the rest of you who own the LX2 tell me if you have a "perfect" circle, or is it somewhat irregular? Other than this it's a great light, and the bezel down carry is great.


----------



## pjandyho (Aug 20, 2009)

Menace915 said:


> I just got my LX2 today, and I think the mismatch doesn't look too bad. The beam color and throw was very good, but when I compared it to my black and silver E1B and to the E2DL I noticed that the beam was somewhat irregular. My previously mentioned SF lights offered a nearly perfect beam. This one looks somewhat like an oval shape. I've never had this problem with other TIR lights. Can the rest of you who own the LX2 tell me if you have a "perfect" circle, or is it somewhat irregular? Other than this it's a great light, and the bezel down carry is great.


I personally think the mismatch colors are fantastically beautiful. By chance anyway. Other times the mismatched colors are horrible.

Mine has a very nice and rounded beam pattern. I do notice 2 coronas on the hot spot though. A brighter center with a slightly less bright outer corona, then followed by the corona from the side spill. In actual usage, not noticeable at all.

EDIT TO ADD: I believe the oval shape has got to do with a misalignment of the LED against the TIR optics but I am not sure. Not the expert here.


----------



## Sgt. LED (Aug 20, 2009)

Yes that's what it is.

I have 2, one is nearly perfect and the other was off a good bit. I opened up the one that was off and centered the emitter. Now it is 100%.
If you don't want to un-stick the emitter and wiggle it around to find the sweet spot you could play with the optic. There is a very tiny amount of wiggle room there that may help. Just unscrew the ring that holds the optic against the lens and start moving it a bit and tightening the ring again. It is a near random process of trial and error but it can help out.


----------



## kaptein america (Aug 20, 2009)

I think my first purchase may be the LX2. 
Seems to be a good size, good balance spot/spill, waterproof. If it ends up being too big for EDC it can become my fishing/hunting/hiking/camping carry. 
Anyone throw a colored filter on it yet?


----------



## DM51 (Aug 21, 2009)

Part 3


----------

