# 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright



## Radio (Jan 1, 2006)

*7W Golston Waterproof Super Bright Multiple Versions?*

This light has been discussed elsewhere but availability has been hit or miss. People that have received them have verfied this to a CLONE Lumilids LED. Seems like it's worth a shot for the price.



http://www.szwholesale.com/luxeon-lights-c-27_72.html


:buddies:


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## Icebreak (Jan 1, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

One member liked this light enough to cause smilees to appear. I don't know about all that.

7Wattser Tred

Well, gentlemen, this is not what I would want. You don’t have to look closely to see trash and goop everywhere. Garbage reflector. Phosphor image all weirded out in the reflector.







For those that may like this kind of stuff for curiousity sake, just go to one of the wish-I-was-a-manufacturer sites which would be where this pic came from. Tons of crap available.

szwholesale

Or you could contact Ax located 9 blocks south of the Canadian border and 2 blocks from Dayton Harbor in the most northwestern area of the US.

Office Address
435 Martin Street #3040
Blaine WA 98230

+1 (360) 450 - 5599
Customer Service
[email protected]

Note: Our office hour is Monday to Friday, 10am to 5pm PST.
----------------------------------------------------

I’m getting a little weary being one of about two dozen defending us from crap. Hopefully a few more members will pick up the torch.


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## Radio (Jan 1, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

I myself have waited a month for people to receive these and report back before ordering, junk is junk, just that and nothing else but the initial reports have been very positive so far and for this price I felt it was worthy of consideration. Please post any and all info related to this light and experiences with it. I am the last one that wants to see people waste money on junk. Thanks for the input Icebreak.


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## Icebreak (Jan 1, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

I hear you, Radio. Let's see what happens.


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## fieldops (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

Thanks Icebreak. That pic did not look good. I thought maybe it might be fun to play withone of those. Maybe I'll stick to my Inova's and Surefires. Even with Nuwai, I never got one like that...


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## DaMeatMan (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

I've never heard of the Lumileds LED Matrix, i've just did a little search on the lumileds website and i came up empty handed. Can someone point me in the right direction for some info on this LED. Is it a new Lux IV type LED with multiple dies? Any info would be great, i must say that the current price of this light is rather tempting.


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## CroMAGnet (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

Not sure where to post this but I just had a chance to try this light over at JimH's place. We compared it to a few of his surefires and a U2 and the Golston kicked butt. Decent white tint and tons of throw. I wish I brought my LUX meter as I bet it was 3000+ LUX. It didn't quite have the spill of the U2 but there was lots of nice usable spill and the hot center spot crushed the U2. It ran a lot cooler than the assorted Surefires we tested becase of a few heatsink fins on the top section. JimH said he measure 1.4amp draw!! Pretty kewl for > $30.


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## 270winchester (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

I'm not sure if the coolness is a good sign for a light that runs at 1.4amp...the fins shouldn't cool it that much especially at the current level.


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## Icebreak (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

It's possible my impression was incorrect as far as the actual light goes. Maybe it's like 5 Jupiters in a solar system. Did it look as ugly as the above pic? I'm still curious about the maker and the seller.

Comparative beamshots would be good to see.


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## Radio (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

Yes, we need more info from the people that have already received these, I have one on the way and will report as soon as received.


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## Trashman (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

I also ordered one. $26 is money, but not that much. On any given day I can spend $1.07 on lunch (two tacos from the Green Burrito), or I can blow $10, and I'm satisfied either way. I waste money here and there, so and extra $26 bucks isn't going to kill me. At any rate, it'll probably make a good car light. If not for me, than I'm sure it'd be a huge step up as a car light for somebody else (family or friend), so not much of a loss.


As far as the maker goes..... Well, I don't know if stamping "Golston" on the light was such a great idea. I've bought some Golston CR123's in the past and have found they are not capable of maining the high amperage draw of the p61 for more than a couple of minutes (until the light suddenly sags into nothingness). I supposed the batteries are probably alright for many electronic applications, but for some they just don't hold up. Now, I don't know if Golston is the actual maker of the light (or even if they make their own batteries), but I hope the light is better than the batteries are! (although, most likely 99% of the people in the world who might use the Golston batteries would never use them in an application that would make them fail, and would probably have a good impression of the company).

Jim H's and Cromagnet's reports are making me even more curious, which as least gives the interim between now and it's arrival a little bit of excitement. As long as the light turns on, I'm not going to cry. (It better not have any goop on the reflector, though!)


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## hiflyer (Jan 3, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

Hi, I also ordered one of these just to see if the hype is correct. For you techs out there here is a website with info on the Luxeon Lumileds, could it be that this is what's in the Golston 7W? Time will tell or I will when I get mine!
http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=378&link_str=202&partno=LXHL-LW6C
Regards,
Norman


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## JimH (Jan 3, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*



Icebreak said:


> One member liked this light enough to cause smilees to appear. I don't know about all that.
> 
> 7Wattser Tred
> 
> ...



You would be a little more believable if that were a picture taken with you holding the light instead of a picture from a web site.

Golston may or may not have a QC problem, but the light I received is very nice indeed. Fit, finish, and beam quality are on a par with the Fenix and the Jil lights not a trace of "trash or goop".

As far as total light and especially throw goes, the Golston 7w blows away my McGizmo PRT 917 L2 (which is a real thrower).

And just for the record, I still get



.



.



every time I turn it on.


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## LEDite (Jan 3, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

I think it is a 5W Luxeon overdriven.

I posted a picture of the LED on another thread I started:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1192353#post1192353

I am using the light with a 2230mah 18650 lithium cell drawing about 650 ma. 

If you want more lumens, you can use reg 123's or even overdrive with rechargable 123's @ 2 AMPS !!!

I like the light and the throw is better compared to my 4W Quicksilver III.

Larry Cobb


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## al2k (Jan 4, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*



LEDite said:


> ...even overdrive with rechargable 123's @ 2 AMPS !!!


Hey, I was going to ask you about that since in your other thread you stated "I checked the current with the bats @4.2V and found it was too high @ almost 2 amps (thats where the 7W came from)" - now that wouldn't be 16W rather than 7W (maybe I'm missing something here) if 4.2V x 2 (two cells) = 8.4V x 2 Amps = 16.8 Watts. Or maybe you meant 2 Amps adjusted for 4.2V (actual measurement of 1 Amp @ 8.4V with the two cells) and then that means 8.4W? Thanks!

Also, anyone have any ideas how long a Lux V might last being overdriven to 8 Watts? I'm hoping to drive one of these with two slightly run down (less than 4V) RCR123's...


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## LEDite (Jan 4, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

AL2K;

For the proper current (~700ma), you would need a resistor on two 3V 123 cells (standard or rechargable).

Or you could lower the current slightly with a 17670 lithium cell (~610ma).

Or you could bore it out 1 mm and use the 18650 2230ma cells that I like for my lights (~650ma). That is the way to go in my opinion.

Larry Cobb


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## Trashman (Jan 4, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

JimH, is it a single or quad die?


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## lexina (Jan 4, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

Well, I just received mine in the mail yesterday (from Dae) and :wow: - I am very, very pleased with it! None of that goeey yellow stuff on the reflector; that picture does it injustice - mine was clean as a whistle and the reflector was nice and shiny.

Comparing it with the 3W BOG, I found they had identical-sized hotspots and spill but the Golston's hotspot and spill were both brighter and whiter. Compared with the Quicksilver V (also known as the Varibrite 5L) which I received this morning, the Golston beat it comfortably. The QS had a more diffused beam, a brighter spill-beam and a slightly darker centre typical of a 5W while the Golston had a very bright and distinct hotspot surrounded by a dimmer but very usable spill (similar to comparing the Nuwai Q3 with the Fenix L1P). The die on the Golston is also smaller than that of the QS. All the above leads me to suspect that the Golston is an over-driven 3w luxeon. Not that I mind since it is presently my brightest and farthest throwing led light.

On the negative side, the only thing to note is that it does Not accept Aw's protected 17670s because of the added width of the conducting strip. You will need to use unprotected 17670s.

Construction-wise, the Golston is very well made (with a pleasant surprise - see below) with double o-rings at the head as well as the tail The bezel comes off to allow you to use it in candle-mode.

Finally, the icing on the cake! The tail-cap on the Golston fits the 6P perfectly! For less than $30, you can have a fully functioning clickie for the 6P...and as a bonus, you also get to keep the light!

Don't wait, folks. I am about to get another one!


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## fieldops (Jan 4, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

I checked but they are out now. Have to check Dae's site. Might be worth looking at for that price.


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## Fletch888 (Jan 6, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*



JimH said:


> ... the light I received is very nice indeed. Fit, finish, and beam quality are on a par with the Fenix and the Jil lights not a trace of "trash or goop".
> 
> As far as total light and especially throw goes, the Golston 7w blows away my McGizmo PRT 917 L2 (which is a real thrower).
> 
> ...



Fellow flashlight freak checking in.
I've been lurking a bit.

You guys talked me into it, and I just ordered one at Dae's site.
Came to $30 & change.
Any idea how long it takes to ship?

Thanks folks.
New bright flashlights are almost as cool as new guns.

:rock:


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## Radio (Jan 6, 2006)

So AxShop is now sold out and back in stock at Dae's site, good for a bump!!


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## Omega Man (Jan 6, 2006)

Think I'll wait for the rush to blow over, or a groupbuy, whichever comes first.
I think this might replace the MaxfireXL I haven't even used yet!


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## Icebreak (Jan 7, 2006)

Welcome to CandlePowerForums, Fletch888.

Radio -

We talked about waiting to see what happens and it looks like folks like this light quite a bit.

JimH -

Believability was my point. That pic is what was posted so that's what was considered. The light has many of the telltale signs of a junk light including the fact that the photo came from a site that sells crap.

When I said, "I don't know about all that." that's what I meant. It seemed there was a possibility that the smilees where laughing at the light.

Obviously more than one member likes the light so this is good.

7W is still questionable. I don't have the greatest knowledge of LED technology. Perhaps this is a new design.

When the Luxeon 5W came out it was a small challenge to figure out what it was. When the Lux III came out it took a while for many to understand it. It looked to be similar 1 Watters. It reacted so similarly to A and V. Then it was realized they weren't 3 Watters in an exact sense. They were Luxeon IIIs that could handle more Amperage than a 1W.

So, again, it's possible that this is a new critter. It would be surprising because no previous knowledge of it seems to exist here on CPF. Stranger things have happened and this wouldn't be the first time you were the first owner of something new to the rest of us.

And for the record, I respect your opinions.

fieldops -

It seems that my critical view is not as well founded as I thought in this case. $30.00 to take a look at something that might be new technology is not a bad deal. The knowledge gained along with just the fun of checking it out may well be worth the money.

All -

Traditionally, CPF members are curious and like to figure out puzzles and mysteries. It looks like that is what is happening here. This is good. I do see some unexpected mechanical elements that I can't identify. I agree that it would be helpful if some of the experienced experts could take a look at this thing.

There are a couple of things that can be done to get better understanding of what is going on with an LED. One obvious technique is to run it on very low batteries to see the number of die (is it dies?). Or shine it through a dark filter. Another one is to project the beam through different types of lenses. If you shine a 1.5 W RiverRock AA through a magnifying glass the six connections can easily be seen. Shine a RiverRock .5W though a magnifying glass to get the die image and it appears to be a three leaf clover shape. Look at the beam through a dark filter and there appears to be three separate die...odd. Yes, I'll buy a cheap light out of curiosity.

Also, my apologies to JimH. I re-read my other post and it reads harshly. The harshness was for something that appeared to be junk, not for JimH. None-the-less it reads harshly so the apology is in order. This stuff is supposed to be fun. For you guys that are checking this out, I hope you _are_ having fun with it. I'm enjoying reading your impressions.


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## fieldops (Jan 7, 2006)

Icebreak-

I do not speak for others, but I don't think anyone took your post for anything other than what you said it was: to look out for junk. I too have seen real junk like what is often sold on Ebay. Items I've had tended to have the life expectancy of a firefly. It is an honest crusade to try to protect the hard earned dollar. I respect that. If this light turns out to be good, then I think its great. I may try one myself. I do, however feel that you were justified in at least being concerned at the time for the following reasons:

1. Golston brand name has had a bad reputation for batteries 
2. Clearly the specific light shown on the website had issues
3. It does not aspire confidence to see that a website would show a bad picture of a product it is intending to sell.

That being said, clearly some people are having good luck with this light. I will probably buy one just to test it out. If it turns out it lasts a while, then we have a good deal on a light for our CPF community. Asking for caution on some products is a good thing. I did not think it was any offense to anyone. We all sometimes wish we worded things a bit differently, but your motives were pure and honest. I suspect most people feel the same.

just my 2 cents

fieldops


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## Kalinux (Jan 7, 2006)

2 fresh rcr123 4.2v are ready for abuse..I´ll let you know if it survive...should be here next week..poor little creature..


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## Icebreak (Jan 7, 2006)

Thanks for the good words, fieldops.

I'm pleased to know the intent was clear. Incorrect advice is worse than junk flashlights so I was a little concerned about that.

I've tried and succeeded to be less prolific in warnings to members about junk lights. On this one, so many flags went up I felt compelled to say something. The seller's style (not Dae) was familiar to me and as of my post here this seller now has four posts total with the topics concerning the selling of 3 lights. That was one flag I didn't mention. The style. I could be wrong.

Purchasing a torch that reveals itself as a poor design is a disconcerting feeling that I don't want others to experience.

At any rate, this torch is interesting and is a fun puzzle. For me it's not so much the flashlights that bring me to CPF as it used to be . It's the interactions with members, sharing information, and the enjoyment of discovery and discussion.


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## pcmike (Jan 7, 2006)

So has anyone confirmed what actual Luxeon is in this light? If it's just a LuxIII then isn't it being severely overdriven? If its a LuxV, is it being overdriven? I'm thinking of purchasing one just because the price is so cheap and so far reports have been good. However, I'd like to get some authoritative input on what batteries it can use and what the output current is to the LED, as well as just what LED is actually being used. I'm subscribing to this thread..

:thanks:


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## chadne (Jan 7, 2006)

I picked one of these up when I saw it here. I've been fooling with the 5w luxeons for riding in the dark. Anyway, I was really impressed with the light. I taped it to my helmet for my Thursday night singletrack ride, and you could see the hot spot from the light in the middle of my Night Rider HID light. I'm getting about 25 minutes of light from my RCR123A's that I picked up at Fry's with a charger for $15 (I bought 8 batteries and 4 chargers) when they had a sale here in San Diego. I think the light rocks, but I'm just getting into this. It inspired me to buy another one from the guy to experiment with a 18650 protected pack, and cutting it down to mount on a helmet. At the level of output it has, I'd consider replacing my HID light. Oh, and the light really carries far (again, I'm a newbie). I was shocked at how far it went. Easily over 100 feet. Probably pushing 200. I also ordered a couple of the 3 watt and 3 led headlights on that site. Can't wait for those to show up!

Chad


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## Icebreak (Jan 8, 2006)

chadne -

Welcome to CandlePowerForums.

Thanks for the report. You can see it in your HID beam. That's strong.

Does it seem to be a 5W? Could you tell us if it has four dies in it? From the photos it looks like a 5W.


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## fieldops (Jan 8, 2006)

Thanks for the report, Chad. I suspect it is a 5w driven hard. Sounds nice and bright. The main issue I've had with some of the Chinese made lights have been the clickies. I had a few 3w genuine Lumiled equipped lights that were wonderful, but all the clickies died. I hope this light is different. I guess I'll order one tomorrow, for testing. Thanks and good luck with the new light!


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## chevrofreak (Jan 8, 2006)

There is no way that is a Luxeon V die.


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## Icebreak (Jan 8, 2006)

chevrofreak -

I was looking at this pic posted by LEDite but I see what you mean now. A 5W phosphor would take up much more real estate. Thanks.

I'd like to see a business end shot through a filter.


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## fieldops (Jan 8, 2006)

Chevrofreak...

Yeah, I see what you mean. Tight little monster. Do you think Lumileds would ID it if we sent them a real good image of it?


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## lexina (Jan 8, 2006)

chevrofreak said:


> There is no way that is a Luxeon V die.


 
As I mentioned in my post above (post #18), I suspect it is a heavily over-driven 3w luxeon. The die is similar in size and shape to my 3w BOG drop-in-module. I am not disappointed because it is extremely bright - just hope it doesn't burn out in a hurry.

Did i also mention that the clickie works on the 6P?


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## Icebreak (Jan 8, 2006)

lexina said:


> As I mentioned in my post above (post #18), I suspect it is a heavily over-driven 3w luxeon. The die is similar in size and shape to my 3w BOG drop-in-module. I am not disappointed because it is extremely bright - just hope it doesn't burn out in a hurry.
> 
> Did i also mention that the clickie works on the 6P?



Somehow I missed your post. OK. That sounds right.

I'm not up on SF lego. I own only an A2. I'm guessing there is a SureFire clicky that would fit the Golstron?


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## al2k (Jan 9, 2006)

lexina said:


> As I mentioned in my post above (post #18), I suspect it is a heavily over-driven 3w luxeon. The die is similar in size and shape to my 3w BOG drop-in-module. I am not disappointed because it is extremely bright - just hope it doesn't burn out in a hurry.


Why do I get the feeling it could possibly be using an early K2 - from what I've read here is they're shipping in very small qty's and that may coencide with the scarse availability of this light. Then again maybe the latest bins of Lux3's are able to handle the 8+ Watts this light seems to be driving into its star. Thoughts? I've got mine on order from Dae


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## Cybris (Jan 9, 2006)

I dont get how a 7w led flashlight could be so cheap -$25 - how? Others with less stated power sell for like 5 times as much.


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## chadne (Jan 9, 2006)

Guys, it doesn't look like the 5w LED is in it. If I compare the square, phosphor covered part, the 5W LED's are much bigger. It seems to be running cooler than the 5W LED's were running when used with 6NiMh AA's. I'll fire it up and see if I can still touch the heatsink after it has run for a bit. BTW, only the hotspot is visible inside my Night Rider HID beam, and the NR has a broader beam.


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## SuperNinja (Jan 11, 2006)

Radio said:


> This light has been discussed elsewhere but availability has been hit or miss.
> http://www.axshop.com/details.aspx/sku-1262 SOLD OUT





Radio said:


> So AxShop is now sold out and back in stock at Dae's site, good for a bump!!


Back in stock at AXShop. 

I bought 2.


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## Omega Man (Jan 11, 2006)

Runtimes are the only thing keeping me from buying this. 25 mins on rechargeables doesn't sound like alot from an led. Anyone have an idea how much useable time it'd get from regular 123's?


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## beakman (Jan 11, 2006)

Couldn't resist, I just ordered one of these from AxShop, too. Hope I have good luck with it like others have had.

the beakman


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## cheapo (Jan 11, 2006)

I want to know about the beam-quality, and if the reflector can be replace...... regulation?

-David


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## Archangel (Jan 11, 2006)

Omega Man said:


> Runtimes are the only thing keeping me from buying this. 25 mins on rechargeables doesn't sound like alot from an led. Anyone have an idea how much useable time it'd get from regular 123's?


Where was it posted that it only gets 25min on R123s? I can't find that post. Was it in another thread?


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## al2k (Jan 11, 2006)

Archangel said:


> Where was it posted that it only gets 25min on R123s? I can't find that post. Was it in another thread?


Don't think it was. You wouldn't want to run the light on two R123's anyways since it'll draw 2 Amps and the lifespan of the emiter will be very very short lived. You could possibly run on two 3V R123's which would probably give a runtime of around 20 mins. Primary CR123's should give a runtime of around 45+ mins jugging by the various reports on current draw. However running the light with a single 17670 or 18650 (after borring out) should allow for runtimes of 2-3+ hours, albeit at a lower brightness (but from what I've read still very bright).

I'll report back with my own findings once I receive mine that's on order.


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## Archangel (Jan 11, 2006)

Yeah, depending on how it compares to my SWAT 18650 torch i'll run it on a 17670. Mine is finally being shipped. (I ordered it back on the first.)


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## mrdctaylor (Jan 12, 2006)

How is the build quality? Does the switch seem decent? The threads? I'm thinking about ordering one, but have been dissatisfied with "cheap" lights in the past.


Also, does anyone have definitive runtime numbers on these with regular CR123a batteries?


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## Omega Man (Jan 12, 2006)

Archangel



chadne said:


> I picked one of these up when I saw it here. I've been fooling with the 5w luxeons for riding in the dark. Anyway, I was really impressed with the light. I taped it to my helmet for my Thursday night singletrack ride, and you could see the hot spot from the light in the middle of my Night Rider HID light. I'm getting about 25 minutes of light from my RCR123A's that I picked up at Fry's with a charger for $15 (I bought 8 batteries and 4 chargers) when they had a sale here in San Diego. I think the light rocks, but I'm just getting into this. It inspired me to buy another one from the guy to experiment with a 18650 protected pack, and cutting it down to mount on a helmet. At the level of output it has, I'd consider replacing my HID light. Oh, and the light really carries far (again, I'm a newbie). I was shocked at how far it went. Easily over 100 feet. Probably pushing 200. I also ordered a couple of the 3 watt and 3 led headlights on that site. Can't wait for those to show up!
> 
> Chad


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## jclarksnakes (Jan 12, 2006)

What the heck?
 
jc


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## JohnK (Jan 12, 2006)

The meat of this discussion is :

WHAT the heck IS this emmiter ?

Surely someone here has the smarts to figure this out.

Is the seller completely mute ?

If I was the first one to get 7watts of power out of a small die like this, I'd be hollering from the tops of buildings to sell it.


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## baylisstic (Jan 12, 2006)

*Luxeon VII?*

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2328&HS=1

Anyone tried this flashlight? The spec seems awesome! 170-200 lumens for $69.95. Runtime is on the low side though.


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## ddaadd (Jan 12, 2006)

*Re: Luxeon VII?*

Holy Smokes!:huh2:


Where did that Lux VII come from? I think I have to check one of these out for 200 lumens @ $70. Can this be a real Lumileds led? The body looks to be built in the Nuwai/Nitestar form. Hmmmmm.....:thinking: Lux V overdriven? :shrug:

Edit:
Googled 7w Luxeon, Same light 

http://www.qualitychinagoods.com/golston%C2%AE-2xcr123a-waterproof-super-bright-recommended-p-376.html

Looks like a Golston flashlight, don't know what to think now?


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## HammerSandwich (Jan 12, 2006)

*Re: Luxeon VII?*

See this thread.


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## LEDite (Jan 13, 2006)

I did some voltage vs. current measurements on my 7W Golston tonight.

At 700 ma the voltage of the LED module was 4.1. 

At 1000 ma the voltage of the LED module was 4.5. 

This seems to rule out the 5W Luxeon since they have a typical voltage of 6.75 @ 700 ma according to the LumiLeds website.

Larry Cobb


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## mpf (Jan 13, 2006)

LEDite said:


> I did some voltage vs. current measurements on my 7W Golston tonight.
> At 700 ma the voltage was 4.1.
> ..
> Larry Cobb


Looks more like a 2.87W torch than a 7W one


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## al2k (Jan 13, 2006)

mpf said:


> Looks more like a 2.87W torch than a 7W one


It has been reported that it draws 1.4 Amps when running a pair of primary CR123As, so in that case a 8.4W torch.


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## SuperNinja (Jan 13, 2006)

*Re: Luxeon VII?*



baylisstic said:


> http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2328&HS=1
> 
> Anyone tried this flashlight? The spec seems awesome! 170-200 lumens for $69.95. Runtime is on the low side though.


Looks like it's the exact same light as in the original post.

I really like batteryspace.com, but I'm not loyal enough to them to want to spend $69.95, when other sites are selling the same light for 1/3 to 1/2 their price.


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## glire (Jan 13, 2006)

*Re: Luxeon VII?*

So, finally, this looks lke a Luxeon III (clone?) overdriven.

Does it shine more overall output as a true Luxeon V? Same? Less?


----------



## D MacAlpine (Jan 13, 2006)

chadne said:


> I'm getting about 25 minutes of light from my RCR123A's that I picked up at Fry's


 
Chad, what kind/capacity RCR123As are you using? Have you had any problems running this light on them? (it sounds like you run it continuously for your 25mins)

Dae's site says that it isn't suitable for RCR123As, but I'd be very tempted to try his 750mA protected cells in this myself.

(Damn, damn, DAMN - I do not want another torch, I do not want another torch, want another torch......)

Don


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## zapper (Jan 13, 2006)

Cheesy way of getting a 7W rating: 6V*1.2A= 7.2W

6V from 2xCR123 (3V each)
1.2A from measuring current draw at tailcap, not in line with LED.

This likely is not what the Luxeon is seeing unless all they have is a resistor in line. I have made a light just like this out of a "Police" host w/LUX III and after about 15 minutes it's too hot to hold. But man is it bright!! Lasts about 45 min of very usable light then drops off pretty hard. This light looks like it's worth a shot.


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## cheapo (Jan 13, 2006)

I think its a scam.... it seems like a china made luxeon clone???

-David


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## SuperNinja (Jan 13, 2006)

cheapo said:


> I think its a scam.... it seems like a china made luxeon clone???


The legitimacy of it is no longer in question.
It has already been shown that the lights on the AXSHop site are clones.

Refer to this thread:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/100417


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## cheapo (Jan 13, 2006)

YES... I was right! 

-David


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## FirstDsent (Jan 13, 2006)

So what I am hearing is that one of the brightest (small) flashlights around is a cheap chinese clone-light for $26? Put me down for 2 more! Even if they're disposable, I'm still money ahead compared to similar output from >$100 lights and I won't cry if I lose one. 

(P.S. I like premium lights as much as any of you, but I apparently have less cash to blow on lights)


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## Radio (Jan 13, 2006)

FirstDsent said:


> So what I am hearing is that one of the brightest (small) flashlights around is a cheap chinese clone-light for $26? Put me down for 2 more! Even if they're disposable, I'm still money ahead compared to similar output from >$100 lights and I won't cry if I lose one.
> 
> (P.S. I like premium lights as much as any of you, but I apparently have less cash to blow on lights)



I'm thinking the same thing, I can see how peolple are skeptical especially with all the "junk" out there but people actually seem to like these, I have tried to find an actual negative post from someone that actually has one but can't. My order shipped Monday, was hoping to get it today for the weekend but no joy here. Can't wait till peolple actually start getting these and can report. I was very skeptical about the Ilumibeam GB $20 1 watt light and it was so nice I had to beg to order another!!


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## cheapo (Jan 13, 2006)

which light are u reffering to? Golston?

-David


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## FirstDsent (Jan 14, 2006)

Yes, the Golston. Mine's on the way


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## cheapo (Jan 14, 2006)

I want to know about the BQ and its brightness compared to m6 3w. 

-David


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## Bullzeyebill (Jan 14, 2006)

This light needs to get into the hands of someone who can do a runtime test on it. Is it regulated. Must be, some how. What kind of regulation, flat, or boost only with gradual decline in output as battery runs down? Something like a MM circuit from the Shoppe?

Bill


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## cheapo (Jan 14, 2006)

But how bright is it???

-David


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## Radio (Jan 14, 2006)

Well I can personally answer a few questions now since the postman just delivered the 1st of the two I ordered, I can sum it up in a single word, Bright!!! This is the brightest single or 2 cell light I own, out shines and outhrows them all, hard to belive but true, this thing is a phenom, bright and white and thats just on 2 CR123's, I am not even going to bother trying RCR123's in it as it is so bright already, no need unless for free lumens, I never thought something would obliterate the hotspot in my SLPP4AA Luxeon, this thing smokes it, the beam is almost identical or closest to the Ilumibeam XL-1, But twice as bright, yes to the naked eye twice as bright, hope my second one is as good or better, I have no idea what the Luxeon lottery is for this light but my 1st one is a winner, very deep reflector, lots of throw, small bright hotspot with minimal but very usable sidespill, beam is so bright easily lights up intire room due to reflection, purists may not like the hotspot as it is slightly artifactual maybe due to the LED die, not sure how that works, does not bother me at all, I only see the artifact in the hotspot at about 3 to 6 feet on a white wall, the artifacts are not in the sidespill and go away as you move further away or closer. The light has some heft to it and is not small, it is the largest 2 X 123 light I own, larger than the E2e, scorpion, cyclops or Nuwai 5 watt, I like the very positive feel of the tail clicky and the threading seems very good although some may find it a little too fine, batteries fit snuggly and no battery rattle, now to wait till it gets dark for some outdoor testing


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## cheapo (Jan 14, 2006)

thats a real shame that there are artifacts.... lost my purchase. I wonder if the reflector is replaceable though. 

-David


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## LEDite (Jan 14, 2006)

Just for the record, the Luxeon module is Direct-Drive with a 1 Ohm resistor . 

It is overdrive for the two 123 cells, but just right for the lithiums @ about 700 ma.

The deep reflector in the four I received put out a very uniform beam. I didn't notice any artifacts.

Larry Cobb


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## Radio (Jan 14, 2006)

I was wondering if the artifact was just an aberration, it is not bad and does not bother me at all, Are all of yours the same brightness and tint? Man is this thing bright!! So you are saying the rechargeables would overdrive it? But the Lithiums do not. Is that correct? How about runtime, greater or less than 30min?


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## chadne (Jan 14, 2006)

D MacAlpine said:


> Chad, what kind/capacity RCR123As are you using? Have you had any problems running this light on them? (it sounds like you run it continuously for your 25mins)
> 
> Dae's site says that it isn't suitable for RCR123As, but I'd be very tempted to try his 750mA protected cells in this myself.
> 
> ...




I'm using protected RCR123A's and Dae's site said you could use them at one time. It runs surprisingly cool. And like some of the other people said, it is freaky bright. I'm comparing it to my 10watt HID for crying out loud. I have only used it continuously for four times so far. 1x on a ride until it dimmed, 1x on a walk at night, and then another time on a walk, for 45 minutes where I swapped with a second set of rcr123's during the walk to keep the brightness going.


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## cheapo (Jan 14, 2006)

well, I am VERY picky when it comes to beam-quality. I dont even like the bq on my amilite. Is the beam THAT GOOD? As good as a pelicans beam?

-David


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## Carbonium (Jan 14, 2006)

I have 3 of these Golston 7watt lights. They are very well built and have a quality finish. I highly recommend them. All 3 of my reflectors were in excellent shape. One is mounted on a Kel-Tec SU16CA Rifle in .223 These are as good as the surefire $200-$250 surefire tactical led lights. 

The Golston uses a 1 ohm resistor. It's not direct drive. 
The light also has an adjustable focus with a triple o-ring seal.
The LED is a over driven unbinned lux III. I am not concerned with overdriving these as I have over driven dozens of Lux III's to 1.8 amps with no problems and Lux III's are now only $3 each.
The light uses a glass lens. 
The light is extremely easy to modify. The entire light can be taken apart in seconds. The Lux III is held in by 2 phillips screws and behind it is the 1 ohm resistor.
These lights would be pretty simple to swap out to the K2 when available.
If you want to overdrive them more just take out the 1 ohm resistor.
If you want to run them with 2 rechargeable 123's you'll need to increase the resistors value. Somewhere between 3-10 ohms depending on how over driven you want it.


Some quick measurements:

All Voltage and Current measurements are at the luxeon.
A Fluke 79III DMM was used and the leads added some .4 ohms of resistance so actual wattage without the meter in line would be a little higher.

2 pcs of LC16340(CR123A) - 800mAh - unprotected 
???v @2.60amps = 10+ Watts
Danger don't even thing about using these without a resistor mod!!!

2 pcs of fresh Sanyo CR123A lithiums.
3.58v @ 1.445 amps = 5.17 watts

2 pcs of fresh Likki lite 1300mAh CR123A lithiums.
3.51v @ 1.240 amps = 4.35 watts

1 pcs of LC17670 - 1500mAh - unprotected - just charged
3.30v @ .590 amps = 1.95 watts

NO RESISTOR MOD 
1 pcs of LC17670 - 1500mAh - unprotected - just charged
3.34v @ .650 amps = 2.17 watts

1 pcs of DLG® ICR18650 - 2000mAh - unprotected 
Will not fit. Batteries are too fat.

2 pcs of LIR123 3.6V - 750mAh - Protected
Will not fit. Batteries are too fat.


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## cheapo (Jan 14, 2006)

So, it doesnt have any regulation to keep it at full brightness?

-David


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## electronics4life (Jan 14, 2006)

cheapo said:


> So, it doesnt have any regulation to keep it at full brightness?
> 
> -David



Not if it only has a resistor.


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## Carbonium (Jan 14, 2006)

No regulation just a resistor. 


Someone mentioned that they thought these were luxeon III clones. After looking at them with a 30x stereo microscope they look identical to my known real binned Luxeons in every respect.


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## PJD (Jan 14, 2006)

cheapo said:


> So, it doesnt have any regulation to keep it at full brightness?
> 
> -David



David...Dude, whaddaya want for about $33.00 SHIPPED!? According to what I'm gathering here, this thing is an absolute RETINA SCORCHER for a VERY good price! For not having even SEEN this light, you've come down on everything from it using a clone, to beam quality, to it not being regulated...chill out and give the thing a chance! If it's not what you want, then PASS on it!

PJD


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## Trashman (Jan 14, 2006)

Got mine today. All the threads are smooth. The beam has artifacts around the hotspot. I haven't tried it out at night yet (it's still light out), but I can already see that it is very bright. The brightness, at first glance, during the day, reminds me of the way the Striker VG looked at first (during the day). I hope it performs like the Striker at night!


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## Carbonium (Jan 14, 2006)

Trashman said:


> Got mine today. All the threads are smooth. The beam has artifacts around the hotspot. I haven't tried it out at night yet (it's still light out), but I can already see that it is very bright. The brightness, at first glance, during the day, reminds me of the way the Striker VG looked at first (during the day). I hope it performs like the Striker at night!



Try focusing it and the beam should smooth out.


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## Radio (Jan 14, 2006)

Actually it's 26.74 shipped from AxShop, now back in stock, Carbonium-Thanks for the detailed report, all of which may or may not apply to the ones marked "waterproof-suprebright" being sold by AxShop, The one I recieved today does NOT have an adjustable focus and if it is a lux III as you have in yours than it is one unlike any I have ever seen, now I am not trying to discredit you, don't take this the wrong way, but it is not the light I recieved, cheap chinese lights may change, I am only commenting on what I got and from whom, After further examination of the artifacts observed in the central beam from approx 2-6 feet they reminded me quite a bit of the artifacts in my Inova X-5, kind of swirly but only slight, not pronounced like the X-5, when I put the light close to the wall, 1 inch or less there is a nice little donut hole but as I move away to about 2 inches very slowly I believe I can see the multiple LEDs on the die come into focus, I had to do this a few times as it is very hard to get it just the right distance and is really hard on the eyes since it is so bright, I should have used weaker batteries, I can distinctly make out 5 LEDs that merge in and out of focus very quickly with movement then return as the swirl artifact at 2-6 feet then disappear. It is not a very significant artifact but I am sure other people who recieve this light from AxShop will experience the same thing and if I am wrong and the head is focusable then I can not figure out how to get it to focus. If ther is another reason for this artfact as I have described other than a multiple die, please let me know as none of my lux III's do this.


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## Carbonium (Jan 14, 2006)

Radio said:


> Actually it's 26.74 shipped from AxShop, now back in stock, Carbonium-Thanks for the detailed report, all of which may or may not apply to the ones marked "waterproof-suprebright" being sold by AxShop, The one I recieved today does NOT have an adjustable focus and if it is a lux III as you have in yours than it is one unlike any I have ever seen, now I am not trying to discredit you, don't take this the wrong way, but it is not the light I recieved, cheap chinese lights may change, I am only commenting on what I got and from whom, After further examination of the artifacts observed in the central beam from approx 2-6 feet they reminded me quite a bit of the artifacts in my Inova X-5, kind of swirly but only slight, not pronounced like the X-5, when I put the light close to the wall, 1 inch or less there is a nice little donut hole but as I move away to about 2 inches very slowly I believe I can see the multiple LEDs on the die come into focus, I had to do this a few times as it is very hard to get it just the right distance and is really hard on the eyes since it is so bright, I should have used weaker batteries, I can distinctly make out 5 LEDs that merge in and out of focus very quickly with movement then return as the swirl artifact at 2-6 feet then disappear. It is not a very significant artifact but I am sure other people who recieve this light from AxShop will experience the same thing and if I am wrong and the head is focusable then I can not figure out how to get it to focus. If ther is another reason for this artfact as I have described other than a multiple die, please let me know as none of my lux III's do this.



I got mine from Dae.

Double check the focus. It does not focus from the top, you need to twist the middle of the light very hard at first. I didn't know my 3 focused until I was taking it apart. It has a triple O- Ring setup and the focus will go from a very tight beam to a nice wide flood. Maybe the axshop version is different but I doubt it.


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## Radio (Jan 14, 2006)

Thanks, thats what I needed to know, will try to twist the middle, funny because when I first turned it on and saw the artifactual beam I assumed it was adjustable like the Scorpion, will give your method a try and report back, Thanks!!!


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## Kryosphinx (Jan 14, 2006)

IMO, someone should send one to Quickbeam.


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## SuperNinja (Jan 14, 2006)

Radio said:


> Thanks for the detailed report, all of which may or may not apply to the ones marked "waterproof-suprebright" being sold by AxShop


Did you mean that the ones from Dae's site are *NOT* marked "waterproof-suprebright", and only marked "Golston"?

Or did you mean that the ones from AXShop are *ONLY* marked "waterproof-superbright" and not "Golston"?


Because the pictures at AXShop show that both Golston and waterproof-superbright are printed on the flashlight.





Radio said:


> The one I recieved today does NOT have an adjustable focus


Is it possible that it can be focused, but has the head glued down? And if so, maybe breaking the glue bond will allow it to be focused again?
(Or maybe what Carbonium was saying about the middle)member.php?u=356


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## Radio (Jan 14, 2006)

I do not own one from Dae so you will have to ask someone who does, I just wanted to make sure I indeed had the same light with the same markings as mine does say "Golston 7watt" and "waterproof superbright" and I am still confounded as how to adjust the focus, I don't want to force anything too hard but it seems like others say it can be very stiff at first and does not focus from the bezel on the head as most lights, so I am still trying to work mine free to focus it.


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## SuperNinja (Jan 14, 2006)

Maybe try persuading it with a couple of those strap wrenches, like these?: (so you don't damage it with regular pliers)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40198


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## Carbonium (Jan 14, 2006)

SuperNinja said:


> Did you mean that the ones from Dae's site are *NOT* marked "waterproof-suprebright", and only marked "Golston"?
> 
> Or did you mean that the ones from AXShop are *ONLY* marked "waterproof-superbright" and not "Golston"?
> 
> ...



All 3 of mine are from Dae. All 3 of them say Golston on one side and 7w Super Bright Waterproof USA on the other. All of them can be twisted by hand and none have any signs of glue at all. If you twist several turns they have three "lubricated" O-rings inside that actually make a suction sound if you unscrew the head all the way as it's air tight.


BTW: I ordered black and was sent 3 titanium colored instead.


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## electronics4life (Jan 14, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*



LEDite said:


> I think it is a 5W Luxeon overdriven.
> 
> I posted a picture of the LED on another thread I started:
> http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1192353#post1192353
> ...



Is this light brighter than a Q3 when ran with the 18650? MY Q3 draws 750ma, which would lead me to believe the Q3 would be brighter.


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## DigMe (Jan 14, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*

You guys have darn near sold me on this light. 

brad cook


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## Tremendo (Jan 14, 2006)

Got mine in today from AxShop. I have been playing with it. Oberservations:

1) Says 7w Super Bright Waterproof USA on the front and Golston on the back.
2) A very White beam, slightly blue. It even makes my new Surefire U2 look yellowish.
3) Very bright. Inside it looks a tiny bit brighter than my new SF U2. Outside, it doesn't cut through at a distance as well as the U2. It may have already lost a little brightness, even with maybe a total of less than 10 minutes on. It seems just as bright as the U2 inside now. Yes, the U2 cost almost 10 times more, tough to compare.
4) It cuts through a little better outside than my new Surefire G2, especially when adjusted to more of a spot. That's the way I will keep this light. Its spot is rounder than my new SF G2, which seems a little long and thin. The spot looks much better than the G2's.
5) Little artifacts around the center beam, not bad at all. Less when adjusted to a better spot.
6) Switch seems pretty cheap. Mine won't stay on, if I lightly tough the switch. It's the reverse clicky (that I hate), and I tried all my other options to see if they'd fit and they won't.
7) I know little about lights, but looking in the front, it looks very different from my SF U2, but abolutely the same as my new Fenix L1P. Inside it says "Lumileds".
8) On my scale, with batteries it weighs 5.5oz, my G2 weighs 4.2oz, U2 weighs 6.0oz.

Awesome light for the price, better beam than my SF G2. If my life depended on it, I would the G2 over the Golston, and the SF U2 overall. But it's in a different class. It's a bit heavy, and I don't like the switch. Let's see how the light gets affected as the batteries drain.


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## Radio (Jan 14, 2006)

Finally got it to focus, it was VERY tight, once I broke it loose it turns OK, just a little tweak helped with the artifact and tightened the spot, It will flood like a champ when you open it up, I can honestly say I would have never figured out how to focus it without help, Dooh, I like the light and would still have to recommend for the price unless we find something extremely disturbing about it.


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## cheapo (Jan 14, 2006)

PJD said:


> David...Dude, whaddaya want for about $33.00 SHIPPED!? According to what I'm gathering here, this thing is an absolute RETINA SCORCHER for a VERY good price! For not having even SEEN this light, you've come down on everything from it using a clone, to beam quality, to it not being regulated...chill out and give the thing a chance! If it's not what you want, then PASS on it!
> 
> PJD



well excuse me... I just asked if it was a luxeon clone, i didnt say it sucked because it used one. Also, I asked how the beam quality was. And I asked if it was regulated. I just asked those questions to see if it might be a light that i want to buy. So what if i ask a lot of questions? I dont want to buy something that doesnt fullfill my needs. I dont understand how you can critisize me for that... not cool 

-David


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## TooManyGizmos (Jan 15, 2006)

Now that several members have this mysterious light and many have supplied valuable , much awaited and appreciated info..... only one question is left to be asked .

Would it be possible for someone to supply some Beam-shots ?

Two usefull comparisons would be :

Nuwai Q-3 ( 3 watt ) and Nuwai 301X-5 ( 5 watt )

Thanks to all for your input and time spent.

We never have.......TooManyGizmos :naughty:


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## magic79 (Jan 15, 2006)

Hi all:

My two Golstone 7W lights were in the mail box this afternoon! I ordered them from AxShop on December 30.

I've spent the evening playing with them and made some photographs. Here are my observations and photos.

The flashlight is lightweight and of reasonable size. It puts out a tight and bright beam. I measured steady-state current at 1.24 Amps with new SureFire batteries. Both of my samples had very good fit and finish. The tailcaps unscrewed smoothly and I found no flashing or rough edges. Focus was stiff but smooth on both lights.

All beamshots were cropped in PhotoShop, but no other adjustment.

Here is a shot with the E2D to show relative size:






Next is a die shot of the LED:





The beam is very uniform with decent spill:






Both 7W beams appear to be consistenly bright





Here is the 7W on the left, and the Gladius on the right





Next, 7W on left, SureFire L2 on the right. Look how yellow the SF is compared to the 7W!





Speaking of Yellow, here is the 7W on the left and SF E2D on the right






As you can see, the 7W is indeed VERY bright.

One final note: while making the photos, I left the flashlight on for about 2 minutes. At the end of that time, the light was quite warm (not hot) in my hand.


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## lexina (Jan 15, 2006)

Carbonium said:


> Someone mentioned that they thought these were luxeon III clones.


 
I did mention very early on (post #18 on this thread) that i thought it might be a 3W luxeon rather than a 5W (i think 7W was never really in consideration) based on the die size - although whether it is a clone or genuiene luxeon I will leave it to the experts.

I am just glad that those who got their lights after me generally agree with me that this is one heck of a light for the money. I was using it out cycling yesterday and the distance the light throws is just amazing. Great hotspot and very useful side-beam. 

I have not tried using R123s for fear of blowing the bulb but I have run it on unprotected 17670s without any noticeable fall in brightness. You will need to bore the barrel to fit protected 17670s.


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## FirstDsent (Jan 15, 2006)

Cheapo,

PJD may have come across a little harsh when he replied to you, but I think his suggestion that you be a little more objective was not out of line.

earlier in this thread you suggested that the Golston 7W was "a scam" and a "clone", then you later gloated when someone else agreed with you: "I knew it!". That's what tripped me to write this, not your reasonable questions about the reflector, and regulation.

The jury is still out, but at least one CPF'er is convinced the emitters are Lumileds' upon close inspection. I appreciate healthy skepticism, that's what keeps this forum focused on quality. I just think you tried to discredit the Golston without enough information. Based on the positive things I have heard, I ordered one. I'm still waiting to hear if it's a real Luxeon, but if it performs, I really don't care.

Respectfully,
Bernie


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## lexina (Jan 15, 2006)

Tremendo said:


> 6) Switch seems pretty cheap. Mine won't stay on, if I lightly tough the switch. It's the reverse clicky (that I hate), and I tried all my other options to see if they'd fit and they won't.


 
My switch works great. It’s a reverse clicky, hence it will not turn on until you press the switch fully and release it.



I also discovered that the Golston tail-cap is compatible with the tail-cap of my 6P. It’s a cheap way of getting a clicky (albeit a reverse clicky) for the 6P!


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## oklalawman (Jan 15, 2006)

Well I ordered one easrlier today. I have been looking for a very bright small light for my 12 gauge, If it works out I may get one for a back up light on my m4. 
Anybody done any real run time tests yet???


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## lexina (Jan 15, 2006)

chadne said:


> I'm using protected RCR123A's and Dae's site said you could use them at one time.


 
Chadne,

Are these the 3V rechargeable LiIons (as opposed to 3.6V)? I recall Dae's site mentioned 3V rechargeables were ok but not the 3.6V types. Also, Carbonium indicated in his post that it would be highly risky to use the normal 3.6V rech. 123s. Thanks,

Alex


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## chadne (Jan 15, 2006)

lexina said:


> Chadne,
> 
> Are these the 3V rechargeable LiIons (as opposed to 3.6V)? I recall Dae's site mentioned 3V rechargeables were ok but not the 3.6V types. Also, Carbonium indicated in his post that it would be highly risky to use the normal 3.6V rech. 123s. Thanks,
> 
> Alex



These are 3.0 volt rechargeables. When they come off the charger they at Fry's

Chad.


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## PJD (Jan 16, 2006)

cheapo...I didn't mean to come across so harsh; sorry if I offended you as that wasn't my intention at all. As FirstDsent pointed out, I was merely suggesting that a little more objectivity might be in order until the "final verdict" is out on this thing. A lot of times (...and I've been guilty of it in the past) some of us here at CPF have a tendancy to be a little overly critical of a new product before we even get our hands on one, and to me, that's sorta how you seemed to be coming across. Anyway, as I stated, sorry if I seemed a little too scathing in my comments...it wasn't my intention.

PJD

Edit: A question for those who've already received their Golston 7W...if you turn the switch on and then back the tail cap off a bit, can the light be used in a "pseudo-momentary" mode (like the Fenix L1P), by putting a little pressure on the tail cap? Just curious...I've got one of these on the way as well, and like others, I'm not very fond of reverse clickies.


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## magic79 (Jan 16, 2006)

PJD said:


> A question for those who've already received their Golston 7W...if you turn the switch on and then back the tail cap off a bit, can the light be used in a "pseudo-momentary" mode (like the Fenix L1P), by putting a little pressure on the tail cap? Just curious...I've got one of these on the way as well, and like others, I'm not very fond of reverse clickies.


 
Nope. The light stays on until you screw the tailcap so far it falls on the floor.


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## TooManyGizmos (Jan 16, 2006)

magic79 said:


> Nope. The light stays on until you screw the tailcap so far it falls on the floor.



I'm very sorry to hear that......wonder if its poss. to put a 2-stage replacment cliki in it ? or just one with momentary -on- ???


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## PJD (Jan 16, 2006)

Thanx, magic79! In spite of the reverse-clicky, I'm really looking forward to getting this light for sheer "wow-factor"...

PJD


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## cheapo (Jan 16, 2006)

PJD said:


> cheapo...I didn't mean to come across so harsh; sorry if I offended you as that wasn't my intention at all. As FirstDsent pointed out, I was merely suggesting that a little more objectivity might be in order until the "final verdict" is out on this thing. A lot of times (...and I've been guilty of it in the past) some of us here at CPF have a tendancy to be a little overly critical of a new product before we even get our hands on one, and to me, that's sorta how you seemed to be coming across. Anyway, as I stated, sorry if I seemed a little too scathing in my comments...it wasn't my intention.
> 
> PJD



Oh, well, sorry about that. I wasnt at all trying to be critical. I just wanted to know some about the light. I apoligize for overreacting.

-David


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## cheapo (Jan 16, 2006)

FirstDsent said:


> Cheapo,
> 
> PJD may have come across a little harsh when he replied to you, but I think his suggestion that you be a little more objective was not out of line.
> 
> ...



I didnt say it was a scam, i said it sounds like a scam and that I think that it uses an LED clone. If you only take bits and pieces of my sentence it will sound bad. Then someone said that it was in fact a clone and I said " I knew it" that meant that I was glad that I was correct. Read my post before you critisize me.

-David


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## Bravo25 (Jan 16, 2006)

As I posted in another review, a reverse clickie can be a good thing. It depends on how you look at it. If you are in a dark environment, and the light becomes seperated from you while using it in the momentary mode, a reverse clickie will let you know where the light is. With the SF type you will need another light just to find your first one.


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## MillerMods (Jan 16, 2006)

If overdriving a lux III this hard is what folks want for super throw. You'd love my Fenix L1P driver. It will take a lithium ion and drive the lux at 1.5 amps. Lunarmodule's review of my circuit can be found at this thread: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/101480


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## SuperNinja (Jan 16, 2006)

cheapo said:


> Then someone said that it was in fact a clone and I said " I knew it" that meant that I was glad that I was correct.


Well, actually, I am going by the 3 other so called "Luxeon" lights that I already bought from AXShop. 
3W 2 CR123 light - no bin # on bottom
1W 3 AAA light - Has the new weird led, not Luxeon
3W 2 AA light - couldn't open mine, but I think I saw it in this forum that someone opened it and found it to be a clone? (I will open mine once I get a couple strap wrenches from Harbor Freight)


I don't have the Golston one yet. (should be here within a week or two)


I have bought a lot of stuff from AXShop, and I would be VERY surprised if any of their stuff is American made. It seems that their stuff is simply too inexpensive for them to be selling USA made items, or items made with USA parts.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 16, 2006)

I am very interested in this light, mostly because of all the positive things you guys have said about it. I have a few questions though.

1.Just how many lumens do you think this thing really is? 
2.What do you think the Lux on it is (approx)?
3.What is the runtime like?
4.I read that it can run on rechargables, can someone show me a link so that I can buy a pair that will work perfectly with this light.


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## magic79 (Jan 16, 2006)

TooManyGizmos said:


> I'm very sorry to hear that......wonder if its poss. to put a 2-stage replacment cliki in it ? or just one with momentary -on- ???


 
A two stage would make this light a very, very useful one for me!


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## magic79 (Jan 16, 2006)

Last night, I went into the back yard to do some throw pictures. My house is on a fairly steep hill, and I have a terraced back yard with a fence at the rear. The fence is 50 feet from the deck where I took the pictures (between our constant rain here!). I was surprised (and thankful it was after 11pm and my neighbor was asleep) that several lights easily illuminated his house, about 110 feet away.

All are taken with the lens set at the 35mm equivalent of 50mm for 1:1 magnification, and the same exposure: f4.5 5 seconds.

Here's the Streamlight Ultra Stinger. WOW!






And now the Golston 7W





Final comparison, SureFire E2D


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## mobile1 (Jan 16, 2006)

hmm the question remains is this a new LED, or is it a Luxeon III driven at 7W???


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## DigMe (Jan 16, 2006)

Can anyone post beamshots of this compared to a Streamlight ProPoly Lux 4AA?

brad cook


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## MillerMods (Jan 17, 2006)

mobile1 said:


> hmm the question remains is this a new LED, or is it a Luxeon III driven at 7W???



I would say they're driving the lux to a premature death. The die size indicates that it's a lux III, unless there's a Chinese manufacture holding out except for with this flashlight. Lux III's can handle a large amount of current well above what it's rated at with out an immediate and obvious consequence, however the efficency is now in the toilet and it's lifespan has probably been exponetionally decreased. Nothing amazing here. If you want a pocket rocket overdriven lux III, check out Lunarmodules review of my modified Fenix using a Lithium-ion, it's tiny and will run for 30 minutes per charge while blowing anything he can compare it to away!


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## magic79 (Jan 17, 2006)

DigMe said:


> Can anyone post beamshots of this compared to a Streamlight ProPoly Lux 4AA? brad cook


 
UPS should deliver a Propoly to me tomorrow...if so, I'll get your beam shot for you.


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## DigMe (Jan 17, 2006)

MillerMods - 

Yeah, I think everyone saw your first ad on this page. 

brad cook


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## MillerMods (Jan 17, 2006)

DigMe said:


> MillerMods -
> 
> Yeah, I think everyone saw your first ad on this page.
> 
> brad cook



Oh yeah, silly me. Didn't mean to double post. Although I did add a few thoughts. Just answering mobile1's thoughts and got carried away I guess. Sorry if I annoyed you. I just don't understand why people would want a cheap overdriven half to death flashlight that eat's batteries for lunch, in fact I was sort of making fun of using a lithium-ion to overdrive a lux III, it's really not a reliable way to use a lux and take's away the whole advantage of the efficency and reliability in the first place.


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## hiflyer (Jan 18, 2006)

Well I finally got my 7W Golston from AXshop of course I ordered it on Dec 30, 2005, guess the holidays got in the way. Stand-by I'm about to get long winded!
My led love affair started after Hurricane Charley before then it was a Maglite 3D, which I had from my LEO time and several other incandesant C&AA. After Charley my local True value supplied me with a Rayovac 1 led 3AAA what a waste also 3 unk brand 3led 1AAA but better than sitting in the dark till I aquired a generator. A trip to Home Depot and I had a Vector digtal rechargable halogen combo at the bottom of the handle 3leds to light your path and the halogen to spot straight ahead, it looks good and stays in a wall bracket fully recharged with a trickle charger. Then it's off to Target, I got hooked on leds and looking for "More Power Ahh Ahh", got a (forgot the brand and it has no markings) combo 3led and xeon runs on 3AAA not bad but then I found this site and I was  on a river rock 2AAA nice light!

My quest continued and I read about the 7W Golston so ordering I did, it out performs all my lights except for my old stand by Maglite with 3D's.
The Golston has replaced the Maglite in my nite stand it's just as blinding as the Maglite so for intruders it's perfect considering the size and weight differece. 
I'll keep up and when a 50W led rechargable with a run time of 2 hours comes along I'm in for that!
Regards,
Norman


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## Tremendo (Jan 18, 2006)

hiflyer said:


> I'll keep up and when a 50W led rechargable with a run time of 2 hours comes along I'm in for that!


Yeah, it'll run off of 1 AA rechargable, digital spot to flood button, fully adjustable power output, and it's the size of my Fenix. I'm ordering one as well.


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## SuperNinja (Jan 18, 2006)

hiflyer said:


> The Golston has replaced the Maglite in my nite stand it's just as blinding as the Maglite so for intruders it's perfect considering the size and weight differece.


You might be better off with the Mag Lite for intruders.


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## hiflyer (Jan 18, 2006)

SuperNinja said:


> You might be better off with the Mag Lite for intruders.


:thanks:
Yep that was the old days, Golston is a backup to my Glock same drawer and 12ga.


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## Walt175 (Jan 18, 2006)

I recieved mine yesterday, and I have to say, I'm impressed. This thing is even brighter then my sears/mag 2D mod. Not as much throw, but I'd say more light overall.
I noticed it does have a tendency to get rather warm after a few minutes. Would filling the hole with the resistor with heatsink compound be a good idea to improve cooling?


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## DaMeatMan (Jan 18, 2006)

Filling it with compound will not do anything to cool your light, actually it will do the opposite and might even make your light run hotter. The fact that this light is getting so hot is due to the fact that the heatsink is doing it's job and transferring the heat away from the LED and onto the body of the light, if you add compound then you are increasing the effiency at which it can transfer heat to the body of the light making it hotter. The fact that it is so hot is also do to the fact that it's being grossly overdriven.


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## Walt175 (Jan 18, 2006)

DaMeatMan said:


> Filling it with compound will not do anything to cool your light, actually it will do the opposite and might even make your light run hotter. The fact that this light is getting so hot is due to the fact that the heatsink is doing it's job and transferring the heat away from the LED and onto the body of the light, if you add compound then you are increasing the effiency at which it can transfer heat to the body of the light making it hotter. The fact that it is so hot is also do to the fact that it's being grossly overdriven.


 
I know, that's why I was thinking about filling it with compound. To get max thermal transfer. If it gets this warm after a few minutes, what is it doing to LED life? I'm just trying to keep the LED as cool as possible.


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## BobbyRS (Jan 18, 2006)

I have been running these batteries in it:

http://www.amondotech.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=490

They work very well.


I am curious if these would be ok to run. Has anyone tried them in this light?

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1641



http://e-lectronics.net/catalog/cr123a-rechargeable-600mah-with-p-164.html?osCsid=09bb404e73a9811dcb314289b7f4f793



If so, how well do they stack up against regular CR123A Lithium’s?



This light has completely amazed me. It has exceeded my expectations considerably. 



By the way, it is nice to finally post after reading for so long!


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## Icebreak (Jan 18, 2006)

Walt175 -

I understand DaMeatMan's post and I understand your point too. I didn't buy one but a friend has one coming so I'll be able to check out the inards.

CPF has several experts in thermal pathing. Sometimes they may refer to heat sink compound as "bog". You may want to post that question in the homemade forum . I might elect to go off topic and ask the question in McGizmo's forum. The subject is near and dear to him and many of the fellows that frequent that forum are well versed in the subject.

Once McGizmo initiated a great discussion on the merits of a diamond bog. I suspect that you would have enjoyed that.


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## BatteryCharger (Jan 20, 2006)

I just spent about an hour reading threads about this light, and there's still 1 thing I don't understand. If this is just an overdriven 3w, (not even driven at 7w) why the heck is it so much brighter than other $100+ lights? Overdriven 3 watts are everywhere...and they don't usually get this kind of reaction.

Also, is there room in this light for a regulation circuit?


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## DigMe (Jan 20, 2006)

I think in the other Golston thread someone posted their updated numbers and found 5 watts at the LED. I don't know myself.

brad cook


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## DigMe (Jan 20, 2006)

Ok, just for the sake of putting them in this thread too, here are the numbers that user *thefish* came up with. Hope he doesn't mind me reposting them here:

Measured
VBatt = 5.3V @ 1.37A
Resistor = 1.1 ohm
VLED= 3.65V

Calculated
2.06 Watts @ Resistor
7.26 Watts @ Battery
5 Watts @ LED
5/7.26 = 69% efficient

Link to original post

brad cook


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## BobbyRS (Jan 23, 2006)

Has anyone experienced running these with this light?

http://e-lectronics.net/catalog/cr123a-rechargeable-600mah-with-p-164.html?osCsid=09bb404e73a9811dcb314289b7f4f793

If so, how well do they stack up against regular CR123A Lithium’s?


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## Ras_Thavas (Jan 23, 2006)

So I got mine today. Arrived in a plain grey plastic package. Inside of that was another clear plastic package with the light wrapped in bubble wrap. No instructions or documentation.

I took it upstairs and threw a pair of batteries in it. I am not even sure if these batteries are unused, they were the only ones I could access quickly without going in the safe.

It is very bright, a hair brighter than my Gladius. The beam is tighter than the Gladius, about half the diameter. Took it outside, but it is raining/misting out so it was hard to tell much about the throw, except that it throws at least as far as the Gladius.

It even passed the drop test. While walking back in the house I dropped it, then while reaching for it managed to knock it away at a higher rate of speed. It hit the concrete ans chipped the finish in a couple of places. It still works, and the bonus was I did not have to be angry with myself for blemishing an expensive light.

All things considered, when I think of the amount of stuff I blow $26 bucks on in an average week I think this light is quite a bargain.


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## Sturluson (Jan 23, 2006)

I've spent the last two two days (no, not all at once) reading the assorted comments on this light. 

A strange emptiness grew in me. My neck started to hurt. My hands became clammy. And in twenty seconds, it was over. I went to the AxShop, hit the PayPal link, and WHAM! I felt better.

This republic won't end because of the misadventures and/or corruption of our political class, nor from environmental degradation or the greenhouse effect. It will end when all of our money is in China, and we are surrounded by .... flashlights.


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## mdocod (Jan 24, 2006)

anyone care to venture how long this luxeon III will last when over driven like this?

10 hour? 100? 1,000? 20,000?

i guess the main consideration is heat...
seems to me that at the sacrifice of a slight amount of brightness, you could bypass the resistor, and use a single 17670 li-ion in this thing, V-LED would probably be around 3.5 or so... any thoughts?


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## NoFair (Jan 24, 2006)

Not to be a stick in the mud, but why not buy an incan?

I find it hard to be facinated by an unregulated light of this size, with this short runtime when there are cheap incans that do better (Wolfeyes and Pila 2-cell lights...) 

The big advantage of leds would normally be high/low level, regulation, small size or long runtime. I don't see this light doing any of these things....

Just my 0.01. Not meant as flame-bait 

Sverre


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## mypalthetortoise (Jan 24, 2006)

I just got my hands on the golston, after a few long weeks of waiting, and...

Absolutely NOT a Luxeon.

The star board says "lumileds", however there is no bin code on the back. Also, the emitter itself is unlike any Lux I have ever seen. The anode identifiers are not consistant with Lumileds product. 
Consider this a clone until proven otherwise...

What is False:
Luxeon
USA
7w

What is True:
Superbright
Waterproof (eh, water-resistant)

The good news is that it has a decent switch, glass lens, and is fairly well sealed. You can easily disassemble the light. You could pop in a real Lux III star in only a few seconds. There is also plenty of room for a converter board. All in all it seems as if it is a fairly sturdy light. It is also cheap & bright right out of the box/crap it came packed in...


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## Mr_Light (Jan 24, 2006)

Just got mine from AXshop. They obviously have confidence in the durability of the lights given that they ship them in a plastic envelope with almost no padding.... Mine is a nice size, VERY bright.

I did notice that AXshop now has a free shipping promo on orders over $25 until 01/31/2006 by using code promo-free-ship at checkout. Guess what, the 7W just happens to be $25.75.

While there the 3 Watt 2 AA lights for $12.75 look like a good deal. Two will come shipped free. Link below.
http://www.axshop.com/details.aspx/sku-1070/

I just ordered another 7W and a 3W 2AA.


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## SuperNinja (Jan 24, 2006)

Sturluson said:


> I've spent the last two two days (no, not all at once) reading the assorted comments on this light.
> 
> A strange emptiness grew in me. My neck started to hurt. My hands became clammy. And in twenty seconds, it was over. I went to the AxShop, hit the PayPal link, and WHAM! I felt better.
> 
> This republic won't end because of the misadventures and/or corruption of our political class, nor from environmental degradation or the greenhouse effect. It will end when all of our money is in China, and we are surrounded by .... flashlights.


You need to get a job as a prologue writer.


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## SuperNinja (Jan 24, 2006)

Hmm, AXShop increased their price $2.00, to $28.74 shipped. 

But they have free shipping (with code on their home page) till 1/31/2006.:thanks:


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## Walt175 (Jan 24, 2006)

Anybody mod theirs yet? My ideal mod would replace the resistor with a regulator. I just don't like the idea of wasting the energy as heat instead of light. A little lower output would be acceptable if runtime could be increased.
Unfortunately, I'm a newbie at this so I have no idea how to go about it.


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## bguy (Jan 24, 2006)

You might get some cr123as while you're getting free shipping. They have pairs for $1.50, so only 75 cents each. Cheaper than C or D alkaline cells. Shows Likki brand.... but ya never know with axshop.


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## SuperNinja (Jan 24, 2006)

bguy said:


> You might get some cr123as while you're getting free shipping. They have pairs for $1.50, so only 75 cents each. Cheaper than C or D alkaline cells. Shows Likki brand.... but ya never know with axshop.


 sold out.


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## VidPro (Jan 24, 2006)

mdocod said:


> anyone care to venture how long this luxeon III will last when over driven like this?
> 
> 10 hour? 100? 1,000? 20,000?
> 
> ...



if it actaually is a 3W overdriven to almost 2 amps, it should live about 30 hours and Croak.
i had a trio 3W running about that hard, and it was bright and it was bright, and it ran forever on 3x 9000ma ni-mhys, used it all the time, well heat syncked. and when the one led went out, i replaced it. and like headlights on a car, it wasnt 1 week (about 10h or less) and boom another went, and an hour of burn time after i replaced the one, boom the last one went.

so i dont know exctally "how long" but i do know that if they are all the same power use, they will all die at about the same run time, and the time will not be really long.
but if it goes through batts in an hour, that is a LOT of batteries before it dies, and by then the warrenty is over 

i think its like a christmas gift, 98% of the people get 5min - 5 hours use out of most of thier xmas gifts, the other 2% can just get a replacment before they get boored with it. 

in other words, if you guarentee everything, and it doesnt last 30hours, less people will even KNOW about it, than will pay for the next round.
its like social security , its all GONE, but there is still more 

how many people actually know from personal experience that thier overdriven 5mm led wont make it 300hours? even though it might have said 100,000 when they bought it? and does it really matter? if they dont know, it isnt hurting them. that light in the closet, they forgot, or that shef queen, is going to work like it did for as long as anyone cares.


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## iced_theater (Jan 30, 2006)

Well I haven't done an actual runtime test with my Golston, but I have been using it every day at work. A rough estimate on usable runtime would be between 7-9 hours. By useable it means it's at least as bright as my Nuwai HLX-712L headlamp on low, which has been rated at 290K mcd. Only that final hour did it really drop quickly in output. The batteries I used were Titanium brand cr123's

I can't seem to figure out where in the world you guys are able to focus the light. I've taken it apart completely as far as I can tell. I took off the top that holds the lens and reflector, the head itself, and the tailcap for the batteries. I got mine from Axshop the original design. If by focus you mean while taking off the head I can sort of see how it goes to a slight flood, but it quickly gets a hole just like a mag does, so I just leave it tightened down like I think it's meant to be.


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## al2k (Jan 30, 2006)

Well, I just received mine a couple days ago and finally got around to doing some testing on it. I'm running it off of an unprotected 1500mAh 17670 from AW. 

Stock it is very bright, however I decided to take out the 1.3 Ohm resistor and replace it with a short run of 18 guage wire. WOW! It's now a 6.1 Watt (1.7 Amps @ 3.6 V at the star) monster! Brighter than any of my non-seachlight lights, near-perfect beam, very usable side-spill, decent (~40 min) runtime, great tint (X0 equiv.), surprizingly well built (for the price), did I meantion bright?  

I'm going to try and bore out the tube so I can fit an 18650 in for longer (1+ Hour) runtime and also re-seat the star using some good thermal compond. Definately will be ordering some more.


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## PJD (Jan 30, 2006)

NoFair said:


> Not to be a stick in the mud, but why not buy an incan?
> 
> I find it hard to be facinated by an unregulated light of this size, with this short runtime when there are cheap incans that do better (Wolfeyes and Pila 2-cell lights...)
> 
> ...



Sverre...Not to worry; not taken as a "flame-bait"! In fact, it's a very legit question. The one advantage that the Golston 7W has over an incan with similar output/run-time is that it's impervious to shock. If you drop an incan the way some have described dropping their Golstons, the bulb would most likely die. One of the advantages of LED's really becomes apparent in this regard. Driven as hard as this thing apparently is (...BTW, I have one and REALLY like it!), the life of the LED is definitely going to be degraded; but the way this light is set up, replacing the emittor will be extremely easy, even for those "technically challenged" individuals such as myself! Nobody seems to mind the short run-time of SF and other 2X123 cell incan lights; the Golston out-shines, out-throws and has better tint than my SF G2 (by a WIDE margin), all in a light that I'm not afraid to drop due to bulb failure reasons. Yeah, I agree, the battery life of the Golston is a downer, and kinda defeats one of the main advantages of LED's (efficiency!). But back when I first joined CPF, one of the biggest "I wish" statements that you heard was folks wanting to see LED lights that could compete with "tactical style" incandescents as far as output and throw are concerned...well, they're HERE!!! Unfortunately, even with LED's, you can have brightness OR run-time. Getting both in a single level output light of this size is still proving to be a challenge...but we're getting closer!

PJD


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## al2k (Jan 31, 2006)

al2k said:


> It's now a 6.1 Watt (1.7 Amps @ 3.6 V at the star) monster!


Guess the 17670 I was using wasn't fully charged - tried today with a freshly charged one and measured 2.2 Amps (almost blinded myself in the process) - that's 7.9 Watts to the LED - I think I'm gonna be putting in a 0.5 Ohm resistor since idealy I'd like to be running at about 4-5 Watts.

As a side note - at basically 8 Watts the light is absurdly bright - makes my Quicksilver V (Lux V) look downright dim (the Golston even has a brighter side-spill) and throws like no LED light I've ever seen.


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## Chao (Feb 9, 2006)

DigMe said:


> Can anyone post beamshots of this compared to a Streamlight ProPoly Lux 4AA?
> 
> brad cook



Just got mine, it's very bright and white, out throw SL Luxeon 4AA and KL3 easily...












I also did runtime plot, around 70 min with primary SF CR123A, 22 min with 3.0V R123A.





For the price, this light is really nice.


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## wildta (Feb 10, 2006)

I'm new to this forum mainly because I saw this 7w flashlight and before I decided to purchase it I searched for some reviews and came across this thread. 

I just got mine from axshop (took forever ~about 2.5 weeks but that was expected). I don't have any batteries for mine and before I make a purchase on a set of rechargeables I was wonder what my best options are. I would essentially like to keep the light bright while still maintaining a decent runtime without having to bore the tube to fit a bigger battery. Would anyone mind giving me some advice on what to do? Shoudl I just stick to a pair of 123's?


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## lexina (Feb 16, 2006)

wildta said:


> I'm new to this forum mainly because I saw this 7w flashlight and before I decided to purchase it I searched for some reviews and came across this thread.
> 
> I just got mine from axshop (took forever ~about 2.5 weeks but that was expected). I don't have any batteries for mine and before I make a purchase on a set of rechargeables I was wonder what my best options are. I would essentially like to keep the light bright while still maintaining a decent runtime without having to bore the tube to fit a bigger battery. Would anyone mind giving me some advice on what to do? Shoudl I just stick to a pair of 123's?


 
Welcome to the forum, wildta!

I have been running my Golston on one of Aw's unprotected 17670 without any problem or any noticeable drop in brightness as compared to using 2 primaries. Without boring, the stock tube will not accept protected 17670s. If you decide to get the unprotected 17670s (check out Dealer's Corner), do a search and read up first on the proper handling of unprotected LiIons.

Cheers.


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## wildta (Feb 19, 2006)

lexina said:


> Welcome to the forum, wildta!
> 
> I have been running my Golston on one of Aw's unprotected 17670 without any problem or any noticeable drop in brightness as compared to using 2 primaries. Without boring, the stock tube will not accept protected 17670s. If you decide to get the unprotected 17670s (check out Dealer's Corner), do a search and read up first on the proper handling of unprotected LiIons.
> 
> Cheers.


 
Thanks! I might go that route then. How is battery life with the 17670?


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## dcarch8 (Feb 19, 2006)

I bought one a few weeks ago. I am happy with the quality and the brightness of the light. (and the price!)

Very quick and simple mod:

I took out the resistor inside (don't forget to put thermal heatsink compound afterwards).

I bored the body slightly larger. Now I can fit a rechargeable li-ion 18650 battery in it.

Works fine with direct 3.7v drive. Just slightly warm after a little while.

dcarch8


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## magic79 (Feb 19, 2006)

How do you bore it out? Can that be done at home or do I need to take it to a machine shop?


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## dcarch8 (Feb 20, 2006)

the 18650 is about the same length as two cr123s, a little shorter, which is no problem for the spring to make good contact. but the diameter is slightly larger.

You will need a small ( mini )lathe to do the boring, or a shop will do it for you in 5 minuites. Someone here in CPF might be willing to do this for you also.

A small tip: For those who would like to try this mod:

Many people have discovered that there is no thermal compond behind the LED, so after you re-mount the LED with thermal compound, also put a little compound around the threads for focusing the reflector to increase the heatsink capacity. The reflector part does not make solid contact with the body because of the O rings.

Judging from the fact that the body does not get too hot by direct driving the LED with one 18650, I am assuming that this mod will not kill the LED too quickly. Now I can play with the light all the time without having to worry about buying new batteries. 

One more tip: 

Because there is so much light from this light, I have cut a frosted plastic disc to go in front of the lens. It makes a very good flood light for lighting up an area, say if you are working under a car, or looking for something in the closet.
 

dcarch8


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## magudaman (Feb 20, 2006)

After reading much hype about the Golston 7 watt LED light I finally took a risk and bought one. 

Initial impression: 





When buying cheap Chinese light my expectations are usually quite low. With that said when I picked up and inspected this light I was in fact thoroughly impressed. The machining on the body and the treads are actually pretty good. The lens is very clean and clear along with a clean and fairly perfect reflector. 




The led it self is not hazed as I have seen with other cheap Chinese lights but crystal clear like a true luxeon. 
Both the head and tail of the light are double o-ring sealed and make a quite snug fit. The tail of the light has a clicky on-off rear. 




The switch works well and the rubber button on the outside is the exact same size as a surefire push switch. In fact you can take the Golston clicky rear and put it on surefire lights for a cheap clicky. I tired this with my surefire 6p and it worked great. 
I took the head of the light off and to my surprise found what looks exactly like a lumileds luxeon. 




After doing some research on candle powered forums I found that there is no bin number on the back of the LED so it makes it very difficult to tell if is a true Luxeon or not. 

Testing: 

I put together a quick beam shot comparison to give you an idea of how bright this light is compared to other lights. 






The beam is very condensed in stock position (it is adjustable but I was afraid I might loose some light behind the reflector). This tight beam gives very good range but is too condensed for close range. I shot it in my back yard 180 ft away and was easily able to light up and clearly see objects. The beam pattern has very few defects considering the price. It seems that the led is off slight to one side of the reflector but doesn’t cause much problems. This light is by far my brightest LED light. Even if you spread the beam out it makes the 3 watt beam disappear if pointed into the same place. The LED color was another thing I notice that was very nice. The color is a slightly cool white. The HID is a great comparison since it is very white. 
After running the light for 10 minutes it barely heats up. I’m not sure depleted my 123a (energizer E2) are but here are some numbers: I’m using a watts Up to obtain these numbers: registered 6.6 watts (ran for 5 seconds then got wattage) with a minimum voltage of 4.85 v the initial voltage of battery no load was 5.89; 1.40 amp max draw. 

Conclusion: 

The build quality of this light was surprisingly good. It is very bright, the beam is a little too tight for some applications but handy in others. Overall I think this is a great buy!


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## tron3 (Feb 20, 2006)

Does anyone actually make a 7w LED yet, or is this overdriven?


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## MillerMods (Feb 20, 2006)

tron3 said:


> Does anyone actually make a 7w LED yet, or is this overdriven?



I don't know of one but with the new K2 can handling 5 watts without being overdriven I'd say you could possibly get away with 6 or 7 through a K2.

O.K. I gave in. I just ordered one of these little bad boys.


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## NigelBond (Feb 20, 2006)

What's the brightness and runtime like using the 18650 compaired to primary 123s? 

How much did you need to bore it out in order to fit an 18650? If it's just a small amount, i think i might be able to do it without a lathe.


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## dcarch8 (Feb 20, 2006)

I did not do a before/after measurement. As I remember its about as bright as before. I have no idea as to run time cr123 vs 18650. I suspect 18650 would run longer because I took out the resistor and I think 18650 is higher capacity.

In any case, I wouldn't want to run the 18650 down too much because it is not a protected li-ion cell.

The diameter of 18650 in only slightly larger, so there is not much metal to remove. I don't know how you can do it without turning it on a lathe.

dcarch8


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## LEDite (Feb 20, 2006)

Nigel;

I reamed out the Golston with an adjustable reamer to take the 2400 mah #18650 battery.

The run time @ 650 ma that I operate at is over 3.5 hours.

I like the light and the throw is better compared to my 4W Quicksilver III.

Larry Cobb


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## lexina (Feb 20, 2006)

wildta said:


> Thanks! I might go that route then. How is battery life with the 17670?


 
I have not done any run-time test - have only used the light intermittently but see post #29 above for Ledite's experience with 18650s.


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## Archangel (Feb 20, 2006)

Based on the run-time of the 18650, a 17670 should last a solid two hours.


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## al2k (Feb 21, 2006)

Just an update to my previous threads:

I replaced the 18 gauge wire I was using to DD the Golston with a 24 gauge and was able to get the peak current draw on a fresh 17670 down to 1.6 Amps (5.9 Watts) which seams a lot more reasonable than the 8W it was running before, lol. I also threw in some Artic Silver 3 thermal compound under the star and onto the threads that attach the star-holder onto the main body. Runs quite cool to the touch even after 5 minutes on. 

Throw still blows away anything I have with the exception of my searchlights - we'll see when/if the LED starts to dim or burnout. Personally I'd have to say that @ almost 6 Watts to the LED it's outputting just over 100 lumens, seeing as in candle mode it's slightly brighter than two Lux V's I've put it up against (my own QS V and a friend's U2). For just under 30 bux I can't complain, that's for sure!


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## Imworking (Feb 23, 2006)

Has anyone elses Golston taken on a greenish tint after running for a while? My LED started off nice and white but now has green rings in the beam. Does this mean the LED is getting ready to crap out?


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## LITEmania (Feb 24, 2006)

The emitter might have used K2 die....
warren,


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## flashking (Feb 26, 2006)

AXShop is now offering free shipping on this light, however they raised the price from 28 bucks to $34.50. I hate it when companies do this. However, they are also selling these lights on eBay for $27.25 Inc. Shipping so if anyone is looking to purchase this light then that is where I'd suggest to look

( http://cgi.ebay.com/7-Watts-Super-B...temZ8770998193QQcategoryZ106987QQcmdZViewItem )

I'm still waiting to receive mine that I ordered from their website for about 30 bucks before they raised the price to compensate free shipping and before I found their cheaper auctions on eBay. You'd think a company would want their product cheaper on their own website rather than on eBay because of the fees and all but I guess thats not the case.


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## Randy Shackleford (Feb 26, 2006)

feebay does not allow a company to link to a lower price on a website. So if ax shop has a link to their website in the auction ad and they offer the same product at a lower price then the auction, they might be yanked from feebay. They take way to long with shipping anyway.


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## flashking (Feb 26, 2006)

Randy Shackleford said:


> feebay does not allow a company to link to a lower price on a website. So if ax shop has a link to their website in the auction ad and they offer the same product at a lower price then the auction, they might be yanked from feebay. They take way to long with shipping anyway.



They could still charge the same price, instead of charging 7 bucks more on their website.


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## Fusion_m8 (Mar 1, 2006)

Read so much about this 7w Golston being a super bright torch for the price, but does it outperform the Surefire L5? 

Has anybody compared the 2? Beamshots of the 2 compared would be nice!

:thanks:


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## Replay (Mar 2, 2006)

I couldn't resist  Its a shame to have a few dollars just sitting in paypal. I ordered the one off feebay. Thanks for the tip, Replay


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## waion (Mar 2, 2006)

I saw the 8W flashlight at the Apliu street here in Hong Kong for sale. I played with it and it looked slightly brighter than the 7W. Obviously brighter than my mod of direct driving a no-use TXOJ with a 18650 (about 6w, I believe). I think I'm going to mod a cr123A x 2 into a similar 8w flashlight myself by direct driving a no-use T-bin 3w and a >2W 1ohm resistor with two CR123A.


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## mypalthetortoise (Mar 2, 2006)

Fusion:

Page 4 of this thread...


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## Fusion_m8 (Mar 2, 2006)

Yeah... I know, was hoping for a direct comparison with the L5, but I guess its close enough!

:thanks: 




mypalthetortoise said:


> Fusion:
> 
> Page 4 of this thread...


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## Fusion_m8 (Mar 2, 2006)

There's an 8W version of this torch?:huh: 

Do you have a link to a website where I can see it please?




waion said:


> I saw the 8W flashlight at the Apliu street here in Hong Kong for sale. I played with it and it looked slightly brighter than the 7W. Obviously brighter than my mod of direct driving a no-use TXOJ with a 18650 (about 6w, I believe). I think I'm going to mod a cr123A x 2 into a similar 8w flashlight myself by direct driving a no-use T-bin 3w and a >2W 1ohm resistor with two CR123A.


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## MillerMods (Mar 2, 2006)

I bought one of these and tried it out today in my dark basement. O.K., this thing doesn't cost a lot, I'll give it that, but there's 2 things I noticed quickly. First, my CPF LE 16 level put out more light than the Golston 7W. Secondly, the color of the Golston was very bluish. Maybe not all of them are, but the one I got is very much so. 
Conclusion:
I think the Golston 7W is nicely put together and has a nice reflector, and that's where the positives stop for me. For as much as these CR123A batteries can cost, this flashlight makes terrible use of their high capacity. I guess if one has rechargeables and likes changing batteries alot, it might be O.K. for some people. The bottom line for me is, these 7W's are a lot of hype and advertizing twist. If you want a 5 or 6 watt screamer for cheap, wait for the K2's to hit the market.


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## BobbyRS (Mar 2, 2006)

Fusion_m8 said:


> There's an 8W version of this torch?:huh:
> 
> Do you have a link to a website where I can see it please?


 
Here ya go:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=108299&page=1&pp=30

I found these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Surefire-Style-8W-LED-Flashlight-NOT-6P-9P-L5-L6-A2-U2_W0QQitemZ8772489967QQcategoryZ106987QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/Luxeon-Star-8-Watt-LED-Flashlight-Torch-w-Battery_W0QQitemZ7223591544QQcategoryZ117143QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/LUXEON-Star-8-Watt-LED-CR123A-FLASHLIGHT-TORCH-Tactical_W0QQitemZ8764855346QQcategoryZ16037QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## BobbyRS (Mar 2, 2006)

MillerMods said:


> If you want a 5 or 6 watt screamer for cheap, wait for the K2's to hit the market.


 
I can't wait to see them in action. 

K2:
http://www.lumileds.com/products/line.cfm?lineId=18


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## Turbo_E (Mar 2, 2006)

do these 7-8 watters need regular CR123 or can RCR123 be used? the quality china goods site says only 3V batteries


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## Archangel (Mar 2, 2006)

RCRs will over-drive them even more.


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## Fusion_m8 (Mar 2, 2006)

Thanks heaps Bobby!








BobbyRS said:


> Here ya go:
> http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=108299&page=1&pp=30
> 
> I found these:
> ...


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## NigelBond (Mar 3, 2006)

I saw the 8w listed on emillion's site. Seems to be the exact same 8w selling on ebay.

It's actually a 3 watt genuine luxeon according to the description on emillion's site.

The description from his page 
" The "8w" printed on the flashlight is nothing related to actual power of the LED. The LED is a real 3W Luxeon III. And "USA" also never means it is made it USA except the LED. "


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## Fusion_m8 (Mar 3, 2006)

Got a linkie for emillion's site? :thanks: 






NigelBond said:


> I saw the 8w listed on emillion's site. Seems to be the exact same 8w selling on ebay.
> 
> It's actually a 3 watt genuine luxeon according to the description on emillion's site.
> 
> ...


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## NigelBond (Mar 3, 2006)

http://emilionworkshop.com/oscommer...d=129&osCsid=9d7c4ff15c89608048b32a96ad7190b7

Click the thumbnail to see the image, it's clearly printed on the body - 8w super bright


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## BobbyRS (Mar 3, 2006)

Turbo_E said:


> do these 7-8 watters need regular CR123 or can RCR123 be used? the quality china goods site says only 3V batteries


 
I have been seeking this answer for months now. It appears, from other people’s experience, that there is a 50/50 chance of them working. I have talked to a few that have bought more then one and tried to use RCR123's and some would not come on, while some would come on for a few seconds and then turn off or go dim. Some would actually stay on for about 15 minutes before going out. It appears that everyone I have talked to have said that it hasn't damaged the LED permanently though. They can still use the same light with CR123's later or can keep using the rechargeables for 15 minutes at a time before they go off. It would be nice to find some true regulated 3.0v RCR123's that work with this light. It goes through 123's like nothing if used on a regular basis.


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## BobbyRS (Mar 3, 2006)

Fusion_m8 said:


> Thanks heaps Bobby!


\
No problem. Let everone know about your expierences with the 8w if you decide to purcahse one.


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## BobbyRS (Mar 3, 2006)

NigelBond said:


> I saw the 8w listed on emillion's site. Seems to be the exact same 8w selling on ebay.


 
The only 7w I have found was the Golston light. It is funny to see the different versions of the 8w now coming out. None say Golston that I have seen, but they all have simular bodies. I believe I have seen 4 different modules of the 8w on EBay alone.


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## tron3 (Mar 3, 2006)

BobbyRS said:


> ... It goes through 123's like nothing if used on a regular basis.


 
I love the bright light in small package thing, but not without a dimmer on this thing. I'll pass. 7w is your average nightlite. That is a LOT of current for a hand held battery unit to supply.


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## BobbyRS (Mar 3, 2006)

tron3 said:


> I love the bright light in small package thing, but not without a dimmer on this thing. I'll pass. 7w is your average nightlite. That is a LOT of current for a hand held battery unit to supply.


Yeah I agree. Two stage with a low would have been great for this light.


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## Manzerick (Mar 3, 2006)

i can't wait to a surefire 10-20w LED.... even if it is years away it would be out of this world!


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## FirstDsent (Mar 3, 2006)

BobbyRS said:


> Yeah I agree. Two stage with a low would have been great for this light.


Aleph 2-stage tailcap (and other SF compatible 2-stagers) might work. Can anyone confirm this?

Bernie


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## jclarksnakes (Mar 3, 2006)

....My 7W Golston is working great with the protected 3.0 volt rechargeable cells I got from e-electronics.net at https://df10.dot5hosting.com/~e-lectro/catalog/index.php?osCsid=774ab338a58b4e8bda0cdd8b7d2a7353. I have only had them in the light for a couple weeks and have only used it for short periods of time but so far (knock on wood) no problems. With these cells it is very slightly brighter than with primary cells. The cells are an almost too tight fit and I have to gently shake the light to get them out. We are finding more lights every day that work with either these cells or the more commonly available 3.7 volt rechargeable cells. 
jc

edited to add web address for e-electronics.net


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## BobbyRS (Mar 3, 2006)

jclarksnakes said:


> ....My 7W Golston is working great with the protected 3.0 volt rechargeable cells I got from e-electronics.net . I have only had them in the light for a couple weeks and have only used it for short periods of time but so far (knock on wood) no problems. With these cells it is very slightly brighter than with primary cells. The cells are an almost too tight fit and I have to gently shake the light to get them out. We are finding more lights every day that work with either these cells or the more commonly available 3.7 volt rechargeable cells.
> jc


 
Do you have a link that works? :huh2: 

The more I hear of some 7W Golstons working with 3v RCR123's, the more I begin to think that it is the light itself being the factor of it working and not the batteries. Especially when some of the same RCR123 3v batteries that can be used end up working and others not. Obviously the 3.7 volt rechargeable ones most likely won't work, but with other 3.0 volt rechargeable it seems to hit and miss. It would be nice to hear from anyone else if they have run these same cells with success or not.


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## jclarksnakes (Mar 3, 2006)

Bobby,
...So sorry. I just hate it when someone sends me to the wrong web address. The website and business is called e-electronics.net. I just tried a quick Google search for e-electronics and it does not come up. I do have it in my favorite folder and assumed it would come up with a Google search. Anyway, the real web address is https://df10.dot5hosting.com/~e-lectro/catalog/index.php?osCsid=774ab338a58b4e8bda0cdd8b7d2a7353 
jc


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## SuperNinja (Mar 3, 2006)

jclarksnakes said:


> ....My 7W Golston is working great with the protected 3.0 volt rechargeable cells I got from e-electronics.net at https://df10.dot5hosting.com/~e-lectro/catalog/index.php?osCsid=774ab338a58b4e8bda0cdd8b7d2a7353. I have only had them in the light for a couple weeks and have only used it for short periods of time but so far (knock on wood) no problems. With these cells it is very slightly brighter than with primary cells. The cells are an almost too tight fit and I have to gently shake the light to get them out. We are finding more lights every day that work with either these cells or the more commonly available 3.7 volt rechargeable cells.
> jc
> 
> edited to add web address for e-electronics.net


Same here.
I also bought my rechargable CR123's (6 of them) from e-electronics.net.
They worked fine for me.

http://e-lectronics.net/catalog/cr1....html?osCsid=774ab338a58b4e8bda0cdd8b7d2a7353

Also, it's easier to take the batteries out if you take the tailcap and head off, and push the batteries out with a stick (or something thinner than a CR123).


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## BobbyRS (Mar 3, 2006)

jclarksnakes said:


> Bobby,
> ...So sorry. I just hate it when someone sends me to the wrong web address. The website and business is called e-electronics.net. I just tried a quick Google search for e-electronics and it does not come up. I do have it in my favorite folder and assumed it would come up with a Google search. Anyway, the real web address is https://df10.dot5hosting.com/~e-lectro/catalog/index.php?osCsid=774ab338a58b4e8bda0cdd8b7d2a7353
> jc


 
Thanks. I actually remember looking at these before. Maybe I will give them a try. It would be nice to hear from others who have used these with some success.


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## tvman (Mar 3, 2006)

I have been using 3v powerizer rcr123a's in all mine. So far no problems except they become very warm to handle after 10 or so minutes.


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## BobbyRS (Mar 3, 2006)

tvman said:


> I have been using 3v (3.2 off charger) powerizer rcr123a's in all mine. So far no problems except it become very warm to handle after 5 or 10 minutes.


 
Where did you get yours?


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## SuperNinja (Mar 4, 2006)

BobbyRS said:


> Where did you get yours?


Powerizers are a batteryspace.com brand.


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## BobbyRS (Mar 4, 2006)

SuperNinja said:


> Powerizers are a batteryspace.com brand.


 
Thanks. Those are the ones that I have heard people having problems with while some others work fine.


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## CEJ (Mar 4, 2006)

deleted


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## changsn (Mar 4, 2006)

BobbyRS said:


> Thanks. I actually remember looking at these before. Maybe I will give them a try. It would be nice to hear from others who have used these with some success.


I've used the 3v batts from Mark (e-lectronics.net) for awhile now. He's great! No problem with the batteries either - use in my Dorcy 1w and Nuwai 115. You can also use the DSD charger instead of the 'special' one ( not endorsed by the manufacturer).

Sam


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## BobbyRS (Mar 6, 2006)

changsn said:


> I've used the 3v batts from Mark (e-lectronics.net) for awhile now. He's great! No problem with the batteries either - use in my Dorcy 1w and Nuwai 115. You can also use the DSD charger instead of the 'special' one ( not endorsed by the manufacturer).


 
It looks like people have used the cells from e-lectronics with some good success. I think I will give them a try too. Thanks for eveyones feeback on them!


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## lordsaryon (Mar 6, 2006)

I got my 7w tonight, and threw some duracell's in it (fairly new, maybe 5 minutes run time from an inova x5 UV). I wasn't really all that impressed with the spot or flood. 

Is this what the 3 and 5 watters normally look like? Am i just expecting too much?


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## tron3 (Mar 7, 2006)

Manzerick said:


> i can't wait to a surefire 10-20w LED.... even if it is years away it would be out of this world!


 
Heck, I have a 100w spot light for my old video camera. Has an auto adaptor tip and I use a battery pack to light it up. Now THAT lights up a whole room, and then some. Just not practical as a flashlight. Not to mention heat, and the bulb burning out, etc. 
Nice to have though.  

It's about 20 years old and my only real use for it was at a wedding for my brother's friend. Only 1 or 2 other people doing video at the time and they followed me because I was the only guy with a light. This was in the mid to late 80's.


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## flashking (Mar 8, 2006)

Just dropping a note, axshop is having a 2 day sale (about 35 hours left now) for 30% off a lot of their products with free shipping. The code is: HELLOSPRING

Just apply it to your order at the end, this drops the 7watt Golston down to $24.15 Shipped !!


http://www.axshop.com/details.aspx/sku-1262/


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## Flight_Deck (Mar 8, 2006)

Thanks for the tip about the discount! I just ordered a second one of these. I am very pleased with this little light, and for the price, especially only $24 shipped, you cannot go wrong with this light! 

If I may add my rave for a bit, the one I currently have produces the purest white light of any of my LED lights (3 surefire, 2 Fenix, 4 Nuwai, 2 Inova, and an Amilite). The beam leans towards a spot, but there is adequate spill to boot. The only LED lights that I have that throw better are the Surefire L6 and the KL3 (Gen 2). Pattern is certainly good enough, good clicky switch, and for the price the darn thing is practically disposable. 

Oh, and by the way, regarding the reflector quality issues sighted on the earliest posts on this thread, the light I received just over a week ago does not suffer from that same quality issue. Its reflector is every bit as good as any of those on my Nuwai lights. 

I hate to sound like a salesman on this one, but I am just that pleased with this little light, especially considering how inexpensive they are.


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## ow!myeyez (Mar 10, 2006)

24 dollards from axshop is a great deal!!! i just got mine and very happy with it! although the tint is a bit on the blue side, the spot is brighter than my t4. the shiipping from axshop took about 2 and a half weeks but that was expected. it came never the less.. i think i will order another one during this sale..


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## Turbo_E (Mar 10, 2006)

no love for Canadians


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## pbs357 (Mar 10, 2006)

To the guys who carry the Golston, will this light will fit in Surefire 6p holsters (lens down)?

Also, has anyone weapon-mounted their Golston? Just wondering if the same mounts for a 6p or 9p would work. My initial impressions of this light are very good, and being LED I think this could be a decent light for my Bushmaster.  Thanks!


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## cobb (Mar 12, 2006)

Interesting......

So, whats the verdict? Sounds like a bright cheap led light that takes half a month to receive when an order is placed. 

Would you buy this light over what else on the market?
Would you buy them to give out as presents?


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## Fusion_m8 (Mar 12, 2006)

Would the 8W Golston be a better bargain since its the same price or cheaper from certain buyers on ebay?











Does anyone know if the 8watt is brighter than the 7watt version? 

A seller on ebay reckons this 8watt Golston is slightly brighter than a SF-U2


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## FirstDsent (Mar 12, 2006)

cobb said:


> Interesting......
> 
> So, whats the verdict? Sounds like a bright cheap led light that takes half a month to receive when an order is placed.
> 
> ...


Yes, and yes.
I believe this light to be the best value in an LED flashlight. To my knowledge it is the brightest, and best throwing CR123 LED flashlight *for its price* -by far. 

It is still unproven for the long term, but current reports are encouraging. I have not heard of a single failure with the possible exception of the warning elsewhere in this forum of a problem with some of the reflectors smooshing the solder tabs due to a clearance issue (search for "fatal flaw"). Inspect any lights you receive for this problem when the head is tightened all the way, correct it if necessary, and then give them as gifts with confidence. I regularly demonstrate the light's durability to my co-workers by turning it on and flipping it in the air to land on the concrete floor. Not only does it still work fine, but it still doesn't have a scratch on it. 

All that said, I always advise buying a more mainstream high-quality light with a genuine Luxeon for any applications where your safety depends on your light working perfectly every time. 

Bernie


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## FirstDsent (Mar 12, 2006)

> Originally Posted by *Fusion_m8*
> Would the 8W Golston be a better bargain since its the same price or cheaper from certain buyers on ebay?


As with the 7Watt, I was skeptical until I read a lot of positive things about it. I have not heard a report from anyone who has bought an 8W, but I'm sure it will come soon. As I stated earlier in this thread, I will give this light the benefit of doubt because I believe the 7W has earned a good reputation, but better value? I can't say yet. 

Bernie


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## BobbyRS (Mar 13, 2006)

FirstDsent said:


> Yes, and yes.
> I believe this light to be the best value in an LED flashlight. To my knowledge it is the brightest, and best throwing CR123 LED flashlight *for its price* -by far.


 
I agree. I am still amazed at how bright this light is regardless of the price. When you factor in the price, it makes it sort of unbelievable…. almost too good to be true category.

I am interested to hear feedback on the 8w as well. I wonder about the differences between the two. Does the 8w actually say it is a Golston? All the ones I have seen look just like the Golston, but don't actually say Golston.


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## glire (Mar 14, 2006)

I finally received the "cooler shape" 7W from Dae. I put 2xLIR123 in (not fully charged, reading was ~3.75V on each) and compared it with the SL PP 4AA Luxeon and the CPF Special VB16 (mine is 3W). The spot is still brighter on the SL PP 4AA Luxeon, but wider on the 7W. Overall output seems better on the 7W, very similar to the VB16.
While having excellent output, this 7W doesn't seem much better than current 3W Luxeon lights, IMO.


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## FirstDsent (Mar 15, 2006)

glire said:


> I finally received the "cooler shape" 7W from Dae. I put 2xLIR123 in (not fully charged, reading was ~3.75V on each) and compared it with the SL PP 4AA Luxeon and the CPF Special VB16 (mine is 3W). The spot is still brighter on the SL PP 4AA Luxeon, but wider on the 7W. Overall output seems better on the 7W, very similar to the VB16.
> While having excellent output, this 7W doesn't seem much better than current 3W Luxeon lights, IMO.


I wasn't sure if it would handle the LIRs. I'm interested in trying it. Keep us posted. As far as 3W output is concearned, My only other 3W is my Amilite Neo T3. The 7W is significantly brighter than the Amilite, but the Amie is 1x123.




> Originally Posted by *BobbyRS*
> I am interested to hear feedback on the 8w as well. I wonder about the differences between the two. Does the 8w actually say it is a Golston? All the ones I have seen look just like the Golston, but don't actually say Golston.


I got my 7W from Axeshop. It does not say Golston on it. one side says "7W super bright waterproof USA ". There is nothing on the other flat side.

Bernie


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## glire (Mar 15, 2006)

On the other side I have "MX power®"... but no power anymore today 

I wanted to measure current out from my "not fully" charged LIR123: I read 1.54A. Then I tried charged LIR123 (reading was about 4.05V on each). The light died in about 5 seconds, just the time to read 1.94A on my DMM.

*Don't use LIR123 on this flashlight.*


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## BobbyRS (Mar 15, 2006)

FirstDsent said:


> I got my 7W from Axeshop. It does not say Golston on it. one side says "7W super bright waterproof USA ". There is nothing on the other flat side.
> 
> Bernie


 
Interesting..... I got my 7w from Axeshop and it says Golston on the other side. Generic Golston? Generic of a Generic? :laughing: I haven't seen an 8w that says Golston on it yet....


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## jclarksnakes (Mar 15, 2006)

....I got my new cooler design "Golston" light from Dae yesterday. I put two brand new Surefire cells in it and it does not work. Of course I tried the cells in another light and they are good. This light is marked 7W Super Bright Waterproof USA on one side just like the Golston but the other side is marked MXPOWER and not Golston. I also was looking around on Ebay and found a light that looks the same as the new cooler design light for $5 and change with shipping also $5 and change. With the earlier post about this light not being bright like the original Golston and mine not working and the light looking exactly like a lower price light on Ebay I would recommend that CPF folks NOT buy this new cooler design light. But, I will say that the form factor on this light is actually pretty cool. 
jc


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## Fusion_m8 (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Bernie:

What's the runtime for the 7W on 2 fresh primaries? Do you reckon the output is as good or better than a typical 6V xenon(G2 or 6P)?

How would you rate the build quality on a scale of 0-10(10 being for a Surefire L5)?

Thanks heaps!

:lolsign: 



I got my 7W from Axeshop. It does not say Golston on it. one side says "7W super bright waterproof USA ". There is nothing on the other flat side.

Bernie
[/QUOTE]


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## igabo (Mar 15, 2006)

Just got mine from axshop as well; they've seemed to improve their shipping times quite a bit compared to other things I've heard. Anyway; when you compare it to a 6v xenon (in my case a Maxfire LX), it's just about as bright more or less, when i shine it at the ceiling when it's pitch black. The beam is much more focused than the Maxfire LX though.

http://vince.retroline.net/7W (3).JPG






(Don't ask me to test that claim :nana






http://vince.retroline.net/7W (4).JPG

I'll try to get some beamshots tonight.


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## Randy Shackleford (Mar 15, 2006)

Got a Golston from Dae.


My first impressions from indoor use are lackluster. It came apart easy and I tested it as well as put some thermal compound on the back of the star. I also found it needed to be adjusted by twisting the head slightly loose to get a better focus. With two fresh surefire CR123's it reads as 4.22 V and 1009ma off my sears brand DMM (the Golston's resistor tested a 1 ohm). --> I'm certainly not getting the overdriven 5 watts others are getting with the Golston. 

I have compared it to a few lights and here some images on the output of the Golston (all shots at 2 stops under exp):

--Dorcy CR123 w/ 1W SV1H-bin Lux & IMS20 reflector running on fresh a RCR123 (overdriven to about ~520ma).

--Dorcy T-Bin 3W 3AAA on rechargables reading about 3.8V. 

I like the Dorcy(s) better because of the size of the hot spot(s). 





Left- Dorcy 3W 3AAA, middle- Golston , Right- Dorch CR123 w/1W SV1H & IMS20


--new Nuwai ALX-352 5W runing on two fresh RCR123's. The Nuwai just smokes the Golston in every way. 





Left- Golston , Right- Nuwai ALX-352 5W on 2 RCR123's


--modded nuwai ALX-1113A w/TYAK 3W 3AAA Direct Drive on rechargables reading about 3.8V. This light is real thrower, small tight hot spot (even smaller than the Golston to the eye, not in photos). Golston is about even with this one in hot spot , but the Golston has more spill.








Left- Golston, Right- modded nuwai ALX-1113A w/3W TYAK 


Not too fond of the blue-green tint it, but it is easy to take apart and it sure does have a nice bulid/form-factor for a $29 light. Perhaps I just got a medicore Golston. Or, may be a test outdoors will reveal a better results for the Golston.

*UPDATE:* dropped a TYOJ star in it. here is what is looks like now:




_*Left*_*- Golston "7W" w/TY0J Lux III *
_middle-_Unknown Lux V in Nuwai ALX 352L
_Right_- Q3 TX0J Luv III w/RCR123


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## Fusion_m8 (Mar 15, 2006)

Funny that...

This seller is so sure the 7W is brighter than a Surefire L5, he/she put it in the item description and highlighted it! 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8778657763&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1





Randy Shackleford said:


> Got a Golston from Dae.
> 
> 
> My first impressions from indoor use are lackluster. It came apart easy and I tested it as well as put some thermal compound on the back of the star. I also found it needed to be adjusted by twisting the head slightly loose to get a better focus. With two fresh surefire CR123's it reads as 4.22 V and 1009ma off my sears brand DMM (the Golston's resistor tested a 1 ohm). --> I'm certainly not getting the overdriven 5 watts others are getting with the Golston.


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## Fusion_m8 (Mar 15, 2006)

:goodjob: :thanks: 



igabo said:


> Just got mine from axshop as well; they've seemed to improve their shipping times quite a bit compared to other things I've heard. Anyway; when you compare it to a 6v xenon (in my case a Maxfire LX), it's just about as bright more or less, when i shine it at the ceiling when it's pitch black. The beam is much more focused than the Maxfire LX though.


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## FirstDsent (Mar 15, 2006)

glire said:


> On the other side I have "MX power®"... but no power anymore today [/b]


Glire,
Sorry to hear of your failure. It should be easy to replace it with a $3 Lux III. It's a good opportunity to directly compare counterfeit/Luxeon performance. 

Interesting: Your light says MX Power, Mine says nothing, BobbyRS's says Golston, and igabo's says "Power Charge Battery 3.6V X 2" -all from axeshop. If I had to guess, I'd say the mfgr. is private labeling all these lights. I don't think Golston actually makes any of them. They're not even on Golston's website.

Igabo's looks a lot different from mine. It has a matte finish (looks like HAIII), and has a different heat sink. My heat sink is bare aluminum, and is knurled around the edge. The LED slug is mounted on the surface. Igabo's seems to be anodized, smooth, and recessed. His has a thick plastic logo on it too. What's going on here.

Fusion-m8: G'day,

I haven't a light meter so I can't calculate a runtime to 50%. Anyway I am still on my first pair of Titanium brand cells. Over 2 months so far, but I only use it a couple of minutes at a time every few days. I would love for somebody like Quickbeam to run the standard array of tests so we can directly compare this light to others. 

Bernie


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## Randy Shackleford (Mar 15, 2006)

FirstDsent said:


> Glire,
> Sorry to hear of your failure. It should be easy to replace it with a $3 Lux III. It's a good opportunity to directly compare counterfeit/Luxeon performance.
> 
> 
> Bernie


 

*UPDATE* My clone/counterfeit LUX just died  (no particular reason, played with this light for 20 minutes now ). 


So, I replaced it with a 3W SX1K. *MUCH BETTER*:wow: . 

And since the 3W Lux has a lower die height... no more needing to adjust the head of the light looser to focus... it is in focus fully tightened. 


Now the spot is hotter and I can see the appeal of this $29 light.


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## BobbyRS (Mar 15, 2006)

FirstDsent said:


> Interesting: Your light says MX Power, Mine says nothing, BobbyRS's says Golston, and igabo's says "Power Charge Battery 3.6V X 2" -all from axeshop. If I had to guess, I'd say the mfgr. is private labeling all these lights. I don't think Golston actually makes any of them. They're not even on Golston's website.
> 
> Igabo's looks a lot different from mine. It has a matte finish (looks like HAIII), and has a different heat sink. My heat sink is bare aluminum, and is knurled around the edge. The LED slug is mounted on the surface. Igabo's seems to be anodized, smooth, and recessed. His has a thick plastic logo on it too. What's going on here.


 
Here (Post 32):
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=108299&page=2&pp=30



idleprocess said:


> I spoke to the Golston reps at SHOT. I asked them about their "7W" light and they said it was a Luxeon 3 being driven at 7W.


 
Perhaps Golston does make these lights, but are just using the same body as these "clones". Maybe its popularity was discovered with the original Golston, now we have these other "cloned" versions by other companies that just aren't as good..... I would tend to believe this or something similar seeing how when I purchased the 7w Golston light (from Axeshop within the first day or two of offering the Golston light), at the time just about all said Golston. Now, months later, most do not. If I recall correctly, from all the posting about this light the first month or so, most were pretty impressed. It seems that the more time that goes by and the more "7-8w clones" surface, the cheaper and dimmer these lights get. Perhaps Golston is the only one worth anything. :thinking:


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## BobbyRS (Mar 15, 2006)

:thinking: Hmmmmmm. It may be me being half a sleep right now, but it appears that the original 7watt light that says Golston on it is getting harder to find. I did a quick search on EBay and couldn't find any. There are plenty of 7-8watt lights now that resemble the Golston, but none say Golston..... Anyone else find anything?

Well, I guess it is official now..... I have a problem! 100th post.:naughty:


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## igabo (Mar 16, 2006)

If all this is the case I wonder if Dae's Golston is the real deal.

http://www.qualitychinagoods.com/golstonreg-2xcr123a-waterproof-super-bright-recommended-p-376.html

And I thought I had a real LuxIII


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## glire (Mar 16, 2006)

I did a mistake using LIR123. Dae clarified it. Those lights usually don't accept rechargeables. But there is a specific version that accepts them.


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## Malfuntion (Mar 16, 2006)

I´ve been using RCR123 3,0V (recargeable) in my 7W Golston light for a couple of hour of total runtime and it still work just ok.

I did try with 3,6v once but it got rather hot and stopped working but after it colded of and I´ll canged to 3,0v batteries it started working again.


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## pbs357 (Mar 16, 2006)

Lexina uses a 17670 rechargeable, and indicated no noticeable loss in output (see post #98). I just ordered some 17670's and a DSD charger from Lighthound.com and will post my results. By the way, big ups to Lighthound for fixing a shipping error in 2 days flat! :goodjob: 


On another note the different variations being shipped now are making me nervous :sweat: . I have one from Axshop that says Golston on the side and it is a BLASTER. Very bright, awesome throw with more of a spot plus spill type beam versus a flood beam. Just ordered 3 more, and while I don't care what it says on the side if they aren't as bright they're getting sent back.


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## dcarch8 (Mar 16, 2006)

I think I am the very first ones to get one of this 7 Watt light and modded it take a 18560 rechargeable Li-ion cell with the reisitor removed. It has been a few months of playing with it with no problems so far.

The other day I was with a few contractors in a dark basement, two contractors came with their 6-D Maglights. One contractor dropped his on the floor and broke both the bulb and the spare bulb. I had to pull my Golston from my briefcase to use. Everyone was stunded that the much smaller light was out shining the big Mag 6-D!!!

I won $20. They dropped the Golston on the floor five times and it was still working.

dcarch8:naughty:


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## igabo (Mar 16, 2006)

Does anyone know of any places to get a compatible forward clickie or momentary/twist on off switch for this?


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## FirstDsent (Mar 16, 2006)

> Originally Posted by *igabo*
> Does anyone know of any places to get a compatible forward clickie or momentary/twist on off switch for this?


Emilion's Workbench has two clickies. One says it is a reverse clickie, the other does not. I belive the latter will fit the "Golston". Others have claimed that it is a true clickie, so I'm staking my $5 to try it. I have ordered one, but haven't received it yet. I will certainly post when I try it. 

I believe this light is compatible with SureFire threaded accessories. Any applicable tailcap should work including the >$45 Aleph tailcaps. 

Bernie


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## igabo (Mar 16, 2006)

Could you give a link? I can't seem to find it.


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## FirstDsent (Mar 17, 2006)

igabo said:


> Could you give a link? I can't seem to find it.


Sorry, Try this: http://emilionworkshop.com/oscommer...id=62&osCsid=d882baf4e0f43a17d1174b85b885568c

Bernie


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## igabo (Mar 17, 2006)

FirstDsent said:


> I will certainly post when I try it.



Thanks! And please do.


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## FlashKat (Mar 18, 2006)

jclarksnakes said:


> ....I got my new cooler design "Golston" light from Dae yesterday. I put two brand new Surefire cells in it and it does not work. Of course I tried the cells in another light and they are good. This light is marked 7W Super Bright Waterproof USA on one side just like the Golston but the other side is marked MXPOWER and not Golston. I also was looking around on Ebay and found a light that looks the same as the new cooler design light for $5 and change with shipping also $5 and change. With the earlier post about this light not being bright like the original Golston and mine not working and the light looking exactly like a lower price light on Ebay I would recommend that CPF folks NOT buy this new cooler design light. But, I will say that the form factor on this light is actually pretty cool.
> jc


 
I just got my cooler design from Dae, and this flashlight works GREAT!!!! The finish and quality is very good!!!!! It also has a momentary tailcap switch button    The light output is brighter than my SL 2L 3W which is great :wow: :wow: :wow: . I just ordered my second one today. It also works perfectly with my 3.0 volt rechargeable batteries from Batteryspace.com (Not the 3.6 volt).


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## pbs357 (Mar 20, 2006)

Guys, notice the difference in the GOLSTON marked reflectors and the MX marked one? Some people are unimpressed with their "7w" lights, and I can't imagine why? It seems there are some sub-quality lights getting shipped as "7w waterproof superbright" lights. The one I have is GOLSTON marked, with a very mirror like reflector, like the pic from post#158. Compare that with igabo's MX POWER marked light in post 224 where the reflector is more hazy than mirrored. Could this be the difference between those of us who are WOWED by it and those who aren't? I'm not trying to stir up a bee's nest, but when I saw igabo post that his light compared to a Maxfire I just about choked! What do you all think?


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## FirstDsent (Mar 20, 2006)

pbs357 said:


> Guys, notice the difference in the GOLSTON marked reflectors and the MX marked one? Some people are unimpressed with their "7w" lights, and I can't imagine why? It seems there are some sub-quality lights getting shipped as "7w waterproof superbright" lights. The one I have is GOLSTON marked, with a very mirror like reflector, like the pic from post#158. Compare that with igabo's MX POWER marked light in post 224 where the reflector is more hazy than mirrored. Could this be the difference between those of us who are WOWED by it and those who aren't? I'm not trying to stir up a bee's nest, but when I saw igabo post that his light compared to a Maxfire I just about choked! What do you all think?


I think that Igabo set up that shot perfectly centered, and got a full-on phosphor image. It doesn't look reflective because the whole reflector is focused on the boring phosphor. If this is true, it is a magnificent reflector because I can't get that good a phosphor image with mine. Mine has slight distortions and artifacts. Magudaman's picture in post #158 is angled and contains no phosphor image. A similar shot of Igabo's would tell us for sure. What do you say, Igabo? Time to defend your MX's honor sir!

Bernie


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## SuperNinja (Mar 20, 2006)

Just FYI- for a limited time, you can buy 2 Golstons at AXShop for $34.50 ($17.25 each, shipped)
(and throw in a batteryless flashlight for 90 cents, if you want)

Their website claims their buy one get one free discount code expires 3/15/2006, but the code is still working fine today (3/20/2006)

Refer to post #69 of the following thread:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/100417&page=3&pp=30
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1326443&postcount=69


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## Monolith (Mar 20, 2006)

Despite the side of the lights now saying "3.6v x 2", 3.6volt rechargeables make the LED go "poof." I now have a nice mod host. Anyone have any luck removing the heatsink/LED from the body?


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## SuperNinja (Mar 20, 2006)

Monolith said:


> Despite the side of the lights now saying "3.6v x 2", 3.6volt rechargeables make the LED go "poof." I now have a nice mod host.


Glad I didn't try that (the ones I have show no voltage marking).




Monolith said:


> Anyone have any luck removing the heatsink/LED from the body?


On the ones I got, the head and also the led/heatsink assembly both unscrew very easy.
Maybe they put glue on your threads? If so, a couple strap wrenches might be able to break it loose without damaging the finish.


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## Monolith (Mar 20, 2006)

SuperNinja said:


> On the ones I got, the head and also the led/heatsink assembly both unscrew very easy.
> Maybe they put glue on your threads? If so, a couple strap wrenches might be able to break it loose without damaging the finish.


The head screws off easily, but the led is mounted inside a black cylinder that looks to be glued to the top of the body.


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## Randy Shackleford (Mar 20, 2006)

Monolith said:


> Despite the side of the lights now saying "3.6v x 2", 3.6volt rechargeables make the LED go "poof." I now have a nice mod host. Anyone have any luck removing the heatsink/LED from the body?


 
Anyone test the resistor ohms on the one listed as "3.6v x 2" ?

*UPDATE: ~3.8 ohms*


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## regor (Mar 20, 2006)

I have taken one of the 3.6v X 2 flashlights apart and you will find that as your picture indicated, there is a small black plastic cover glued to the on top of the led mount. I carefully pried the cover off. Be carefull, for mine had one of the miniature screw out of the threaded hole. I'm glad that I looked under the black cover for the star was hanging by the other loose screw. You'll find that once the cover is off the aluminum heat sink housing can be unscrewed from the flashlight body. I used a pair of vise grips with minimum force, so as not to warp the aluminum. This star housing heat sink has to be unscrewed if you want to bore it out for LiIon 18650's. With everything apart I placed some silver heat sink compound I had from one of my CPU's behind the star and secured each screw back to the heat sink.
I think this is a really nice light and easy to modify for 18650's, it also seems to have a glass lens???? I also use the 3.0v rcr123's @ 900mah recharchables, which come off the charger around 4.2v, but so far they work fine for me. Although I hear other's having problems with rechargables.


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## Monolith (Mar 20, 2006)

Great information! Thanks! :twothumbs


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## Archangel (Mar 20, 2006)

roger - What did you notice under the star as far as electronics?


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## Monolith (Mar 20, 2006)

I'm not Roger, but got mine apart and no electronics, just a single resistor, looks to be orange/black/black (300). The can does have enough room for sandwich electronics.


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## Archangel (Mar 20, 2006)

So their change for the "able to handle li-ions" version was simply a larger resistor?


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## Monolith (Mar 20, 2006)

Archangel said:


> So their change for the "able to handle li-ions" version was simply a larger resistor?


Well, in my case, my fresh rechargeables measured 8.39 volts and the voltage across the LED measures 8.39 volts. It's possible my resistor got shorted. The resistor itself is in the can and sealed by an aluminum crimp rim.


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## Monolith (Mar 20, 2006)

My resistor measured out around 3.2 ohms. If someone else has a "3.6 x 2", please let me know what your resistance is. I have no specs for the lumileds clone star, so no way to figure out what the forward voltage is supposed to be. It could be that I have a resistor meant for a non-"3.6 x 2" light that accidently got in the 3.6 x 2 labeled light.


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## Randy Shackleford (Mar 21, 2006)

Monolith said:


> My resistor measured out around 3.2 ohms. If someone else has a "3.6 x 2", please let me know what your resistance is. I have no specs for the lumileds clone star, so no way to figure out what the voltage drop is supposed to be. It could be that I have a resistor meant for a non-"3.6 x 2" light that accidently got in the 3.6 x 2 labeled light.


 
I have non-recharge version the resistor measures 1 ohm. This is consistant with previous post information. A 3.2ohm resistor would probably (according to previous posts) good for use with two RCR's. So, I guess it is safe to assume you have the correct resistor for a "3.6 x 2" version. I bet your are correct about your resistor shorting and the result being "poof' :huh: .


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## QUestorJones (Mar 21, 2006)

Is it possible for people to post:

1) The light the got when order the Golston (ie: what does it look like)?
2) Whether they are in the Impressed group or the non-impressed group?
(ie: Did you get a bright one, or a not-so bright one?)
3) WHERE did you buy it from?

It seems that the ones from the Axshop used to be good, but now are not-so-hot, while the ones from Dae are still great....but this is an educated guess based on piecing some posts together. I could be wrong, so I thought I should ask for more specifics.


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## Monolith (Mar 21, 2006)

QUestorJones said:


> Is it possible for people to post:
> 
> 1) The light the got when order the Golston (ie: what does it look like)?
> 2) Whether they are in the Impressed group or the non-impressed group?
> ...



1) See my previous pics - not marked "Golston" - I ordered a 2 x CR123 light and that's the one they sent me.
2) Okay for about 30 seconds
3) AxShop - This is the version they are currently shipping as the non-rechargeable model.


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## pbs357 (Mar 21, 2006)

1. GOLSTON marked

2. WOOHOO! PS - seems to be equally bright on 1 unprotected 17670

3. Got it from Axshop. Just ordered 3 more, and have my fingers crossed...


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## stjohnh (Mar 21, 2006)

Golston marked, got it from Axshop soon after they started carrying it, paid about $25 shipped as I recall. Very nicely made. I'm in the "impressed" group. The resistor measures 1 ohm on mine, works great. Extremely bright for about 90min on 2 regular 123 lithium batteries, then another 90 min or so about as bright as a 1 watt light.


I've ordered 2 more on the 2 for one deal, I hope they are as nice as the one I already have.

Holland


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## QUestorJones (Mar 22, 2006)

Looks like Axshop is out of stock for now:
http://www.axshop.com/details.aspx/sku-1262/


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## Skyclad01 (Mar 22, 2006)

1) Chrome body - Golston marked (original body - not the cooler style) 

2) Very impressed. Very bright and very white beam. To compair charistics only - Its as bright as my LEDbeam, but with plenty of sidespill (like the Fenix L1P). Though the LEDbeam will slightly out throw the Golston, but it gives it good competition.

3) Bought used from another CPF memeber, but I know he got it from Dae's site (szwholesale.com)


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## toyrolex (Mar 22, 2006)

Do not buy from Axshop. Their main page says they're running away with our money. Either that or their site is hacked.


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## Doug3581 (Mar 22, 2006)

SuperNinja said:


> You might be better off with the Mag Lite for intruders.


Yea for at least the one thing, the SF's aren't as good.





(I was really bored and made this tonight)
~


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## igabo (Mar 22, 2006)

toyrolex said:


> Do not buy from Axshop. Their main page says they're running away with our money. Either that or their site is hacked.



Probably something like the latter, if you take a look at their site, it seems they're shutting down or something of the like.


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## igabo (Mar 22, 2006)

Can anyone who has the "3.6v x 2" version tell me how light is lost with unprotected 17670?


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## SuperNinja (Mar 22, 2006)

Doug3581 said:


> (I was really bored and made this tonight)
> ~


That's great! (I'm stealing that smile, BTW)


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## BobbyRS (Mar 22, 2006)

toyrolex said:


> Do not buy from Axshop. Their main page says they're running away with our money. Either that or their site is hacked.


 
Wow, it looks like they are closing up shop. That's too bad. I will always remember them as the people who sold me my Golston 7w. 

1) Golston marked (Original Body) - I believe I purchased the very day it was first offered. Maybe within the first few hours of availability.

2) Put me down as very impressed! Jaw dropping if you ask me. I was not expecting it to be no where near as bright, as white, and have as much throw as it does.

3) Like I mentioned above, AxShop.


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## Doug3581 (Mar 22, 2006)

Well,,,, don't get me wrong here. This flashlight has piqued my interest,,, but I am having to move in the next 2-4 weeks, and haven't gotten another place yet. 
So I can't exactly go ordering anything right now, especially if it tends to take a few weeks to arrive. 
,,,,
Anyway--I really just wanted somewhere to post another smiley I made:




~


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## Archangel (Mar 22, 2006)

Don't know what the deal is, but i got a notice at 3:35pm that my order from the 17th shipped.


toyrolex said:


> Do not buy from Axshop. Their main page says they're running away with our money. Either that or their site is hacked.


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## Monolith (Mar 22, 2006)

Archangel said:


> Don't know what the deal is, but i got a notice at 3:35pm that my order from the 17th shipped.


Same here.


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## igabo (Mar 22, 2006)

FirstDsent said:


> I think that Igabo set up that shot perfectly centered, and got a full-on phosphor image. It doesn't look reflective because the whole reflector is focused on the boring phosphor. If this is true, it is a magnificent reflector because I can't get that good a phosphor image with mine. Mine has slight distortions and artifacts. Magudaman's picture in post #158 is angled and contains no phosphor image. A similar shot of Igabo's would tell us for sure. What do you say, Igabo? Time to defend your MX's honor sir!
> 
> Bernie








Hope that helps; sorry if I didn't get that great of a pic; I was in a rush. Golston beam pictured in my avatar.


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## FirstDsent (Mar 22, 2006)

Das' wha I'm talkin 'bout!
Bernie


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## Monolith (Mar 24, 2006)

Anyone have thoughts on whether the tail end threads can retain integrity if the body is bored out for 18650 cells? Currently, it's very close to 17mm ID. The tail cap end threading would be the thinnest part.

I'm considering putting Lux5 in my newly acquired Golston "host" (LED fried). I figure 750ma would make it run way too hot, so I'm considering 500ma with BB500 driver. Any thoughts?


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## FlashKat (Mar 24, 2006)

FlashKat said:


> I just got my cooler design from Dae, and this flashlight works GREAT!!!! The finish and quality is very good!!!!! It also has a momentary tailcap switch button    The light output is brighter than my SL 2L 3W which is great :wow: :wow: :wow: . I just ordered my second one today. It also works perfectly with my 3.0 volt rechargeable batteries from Batteryspace.com (Not the 3.6 volt).


 
My 7w cooler design died today....*jclarksnakes mentioned not to buy this model and he was correct!!!!!!*
*It was nice for the 2 days I used it, but I am going back to Streamlight and Surefire.*
*I just hope the 2nd flashlight last a little longer.*


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## SuperNinja (Mar 25, 2006)

FlashKat said:


> My 7w cooler design died today....*jclarksnakes mentioned not to buy this model and he was correct!!!!!!*
> *It was nice for the 2 days I used it, but I am going back to Streamlight and Surefire.*
> *I just hope the 2nd flashlight last a little longer.*


Were you using 3.0v or 3.6v batteries?


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## jclarksnakes (Mar 25, 2006)

.....After I got my dead new cooler design light Dae offered to fix or replace it if I will send it back to him. Rather than mess with shipping this cheap light all the way around the world again I think I will see if I can find someone who wants to try modding it with a better (real) Luxeon LED. Or I may try doing it myself. This light does have a very sexy solid form factor. I have ordered a similar looking incandescent light on Ebay. It was about $12 with shipping. It has the word "COP" on the bezel which cracks me up everytime I see it on a cheap light. I am curious to see if this body would make a low cost solid platform for LED or perhaps even incandescent modding.
jc


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## Randy Shackleford (Mar 25, 2006)

jclarksnakes said:


> .....After I got my dead new cooler design light Dae offered to fix or replace it if I will send it back to him. Rather than mess with shipping this cheap light all the way around the world again I think I will see if I can find someone who wants to try modding it with a better (real) Luxeon LED. Or I may try doing it myself. This light does have a very sexy solid form factor. I have ordered a similar looking incandescent light on Ebay. It was about $12 with shipping. It has the word "COP" on the bezel which cracks me up everytime I see it on a cheap light. I am curious to see if this body would make a low cost solid platform for LED or perhaps even incandescent modding.
> jc


 
put real 3W LUX with thermal compound in my Golston and it works better than the original (I think I got a bad clone, it died after 15 minutes after 1st use ).


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## SuperNinja (Mar 25, 2006)

jclarksnakes said:


> It has the word "COP" on the bezel which cracks me up everytime I see it on a cheap light.


Cop? Haven't seen that yet.
The ones I saw had "Police" printed on them.

Just checked eBay. No wonder I haven't seen the cop lights.
From a quick search, there are a couple "cop" lights there now, and about 1200 "police" lights.


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## FlashKat (Mar 25, 2006)

SuperNinja said:


> Were you using 3.0v or 3.6v batteries?


3.0v batteries


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## FlashKat (Mar 25, 2006)

Randy Shackleford said:


> put real 3W LUX with thermal compound in my Golston and it works better than the original (I think I got a bad clone, it died after 15 minutes after 1st use ).


 
Can you tell me how you did the modification?
How did you modify & what parts?
Did you replace just the Luxeon or the whole Star assembly, and where do you use the thermal compound?


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## Monolith (Mar 25, 2006)

Received my order from the AxShop today. Even got the shake light too. Much quicker shipping than the first time. Still sending out the 3.6x2 lights. I don't know if I have what it takes to try the rechargeables again. I may just use the primaries for a while....


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## toyrolex (Mar 26, 2006)

Despite the messages on Axshop page, I received my two "7W Super Bright Waterproof USA" light. The other sides were marked "3.6v x 2".

Ordered on 3/19 and received on 3/25.

Exterior finish looks very impressive and well made.

The center spot is much brigher than my Dorcy Super 1 Watt, but not as bright as my stock 4D Mag (when focused). For up close work, multi-LED lights like my 28-LED lights (also from Ax) are better. Even with a bright center spot, the side spill is very nice and even.

I used "Likki" CR123A batteries, which I also ordered from Axshop.

I don't own a SL 4AA PP, so was wondering how it compares to this "7W 3.6v x 2" in terms of throw.

I've only been a member here for 3 months, and my wife says she can't believe how many flashlights I've purchased. She's right, and she'll be right again (when she says that again).


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## vortechs (Mar 26, 2006)

I ordered two on 3/20/06, during AXShop's short-lived 2 for 1 special. I just received them on 3/25/06. It appears that AXShop's problems have improved their shipping times . The lights are marked "7W Super Bright Waterproof USA" on one side and the other side has what seems to be a oval-shaped clear plastic sticker that says "POWER 3.6v x 2 CHARGE BATTERY". 

I don't have any rechargable 123's yet, so I tried them with some 3v Duracell DL123A primaries. The normal comments from this thread seem to apply: Construction seems good, it is very bright, the hotspot is tightly focused when the bezel is screwed all the way down (rather narrow for indoor work) but can be adjusted to be more flood by unscrewing the bezel (although this makes a central dark spot appear, it is more useful beam for indoors). As reported by others, the reverse clickie tailcap works fine on my old SureFire 6P, thought the finish doesn't match; the 6P is glossy black while the "7w" is flat black. 

The hotspot of the "7w Super Bright" is narrower than my 6P. Indoors the 6P seems brighter and more useful (more spill and renders colors better), but outdoors the tight beam of the "7w" seems to throw further. I suspect the "7w" will be brighter on 3.6v RCR123's. It probably has the larger resistor, but I might be more interested in some of the other mods that have appeared in this thread, such as reducing the resistor (to 0.5 Ohm??) and running the light with a single 17670 (I don't have the equpment to bore the body out for a 18650). I'd be interested in knowing if anyone else has developed any interesting mods for the "Golston 7w". Has anyone tried putting any electronics in it? A two stage mod or a FLuPIC would make it much more useful. 

If somebody could post instructions on how to test the value of the resistor, I would appreciate it. I have a multimeter but I'm fairly new to using it.


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## aceo07 (Mar 26, 2006)

axshop.com is no more.

http://www.axshop.com/


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## vortechs (Mar 26, 2006)

aceo07 said:


> axshop.com is no more.
> 
> http://www.axshop.com/



There is an entire thread about the recent problems at AXShop (see thread: IS AXSPHOP CLOSING ! ?? Read THIS !). It is hard to tell if they are closing or just dealing with some of their employees leaving. They seem to still be shipping the orders they already have but they're not taking any new orders right now and all of their eBay listings have been cancelled.


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## pbs357 (Mar 26, 2006)

Well, I got the 3 7w lights I ordred just before the Axshop website went down and here's what I got:

3 lights, this time NOT marked Golston. Instead, they were marked 3.6vx2 just like the ones Igaboo and Monolith got. The LED and stars on all three looked the same once I took the black plastic cover off (one of which was cracked by the way - FYI: the light functions fine without it). Their finish is more of a flat/matte finish versus the Golston marked one which is more glossy. They also have a spring loaded brass colored plug instead of a silver coil in the tailcap to contact the battery. Both tailcaps have firm, reverse clickie operation, glass lenses and similar deep reflectors. I don't have a digital camera but I'll see if I can get a hold of one to show the differences. 

From a performance point of view, 2 have a good white color, and one has a greenish color but you can only notice it when you shine it on a white wall. Once outdoors, you can't tell the difference. All 3 project the bright, long throwing, medium width spot style beam with decent spill that has been making these lights so popular. However, my Golston marked light is just slightly more bright and more intense. I couldn't tell the difference until running them at same time, side by side. 

Sooooo, while there are some differences, these look to be a good version also. 

FYI - I could not tell any difference in brightness between running 2xcr123a primaries vs. 1x17670 unprotected cell. Does anybody know if these will light, first try with protected 17670's? Thanks!


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## igabo (Mar 26, 2006)

pbs357 said:


> FYI - I could not tell any difference in brightness between running 2xcr123a primaries vs. 1x17670 unprotected cell. Does anybody know if these will light, first try with protected 17670's? Thanks!



Thats Excellent, too bad the one i recieved has the green tint to it. :thumbsdow And when you do get your hands on a camera, could you also get a pic of the star? Never seen the one of the "2x3.6 volt". Thanks.


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## vortechs (Mar 26, 2006)

pbs357 said:


> Well, I got the 3 7w lights I ordred just before the Axshop website went down and here's what I got:
> 
> 3 lights, this time NOT marked Golston. Instead, they were marked 3.6vx2 just like the ones Igaboo and Monolith got. The LED and stars on all three looked the same once I took the black plastic cover off (one of which was cracked by the way - FYI: the light functions fine without it). Their finish is more of a flat/matte finish versus the Golston marked one which is more glossy. They also have a spring loaded brass colored plug instead of a silver coil in the tailcap to contact the battery. Both tailcaps have firm, reverse clickie operation, glass lenses and similar deep reflectors. I don't have a digital camera but I'll see if I can get a hold of one to show the differences.



Sounds like the ones I just got. This seems to be the version that they are currently shipping. Their web site did say that the appearance could vary. I'd guess AXShop would just buy whichever version was cheapest or most available at the time.


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## vortechs (Mar 26, 2006)

pbs357 said:


> ...From a performance point of view, 2 have a good white color, and one has a greenish color but you can only notice it when you shine it on a white wall. Once outdoors, you can't tell the difference. All 3 project the bright, long throwing, medium width spot style beam with decent spill that has been making these lights so popular. However, my Golston marked light is just slightly more bright and more intense. I couldn't tell the difference until running them at same time, side by side.
> 
> Sooooo, while there are some differences, these look to be a good version also.
> 
> FYI - I could not tell any difference in brightness between running 2xcr123a primaries vs. 1x17670 unprotected cell. Does anybody know if these will light, first try with protected 17670's? Thanks!



I wonder if your "Golston" marked light is more intense simply becuase it has a lower resistor than the "3.6v x 2" models that you just received. Have you tried the new "3.6v x 2" model with two LiIon batteries yet? I'd be interested to know how much difference it makes. 

For using 17670's (protected or unprotected), would it make sense to mod the resistor to use a lower value one?


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## wquiles (Mar 26, 2006)

Monolith said:


> Well, in my case, my fresh rechargeables measured 8.39 volts and the voltage across the LED measures 8.39 volts. It's possible my resistor got shorted. The resistor itself is in the can and sealed by an aluminum crimp rim.


Man, oh man, this light "screams" to be modded with a good LED constant current converter. For a 3W LED, a Downboy would allow you to pretty much use two primaries or two rechargables, and for a single LiIon cell, the Wiz2 from the Shoppe should be perfect 

Has anyone tried boring out the body yet for a fat 18650 cell?

Will


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## pbs357 (Mar 27, 2006)

vortechs said:


> I wonder if your "Golston" marked light is more intense simply becuase it has a lower resistor than the "3.6v x 2" models that you just received. Have you tried the new "3.6v x 2" model with two LiIon batteries yet? I'd be interested to know how much difference it makes.
> 
> Vortech, someone here burned up their light with 2xrcr123's, even though it was marked 3.6v x 2, so I'm not going to even try it. It's a solid performer as is. By the way, this light (both Goston and 3.6v x 2 marked) can't really be fully appreciated in a dark room - you need to take it outdoors to really see what it can do!
> 
> Also, I think dcarch8 and someone else did bore out their lights for 18650's, somewhere around pages 7 or 8 of this thread.


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## igabo (Mar 27, 2006)

Does brightness decrease when using 17670 on your 3.6v x 2 version, compared to using primary CR123A's?


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## vortechs (Mar 27, 2006)

pbs357 said:


> Vortech, someone here burned up their light with 2xrcr123's, even though it was marked 3.6v x 2, so I'm not going to even try it. It's a solid performer as is. By the way, this light (both Goston and 3.6v x 2 marked) can't really be fully appreciated in a dark room - you need to take it outdoors to really see what it can do!
> 
> Also, I think dcarch8 and someone else did bore out their lights for 18650's, somewhere around pages 7 or 8 of this thread.



Hi pbs357, thanks for the warning. I've actually read the whole thread and even cut and pasted a summary of the more important posts into a text document so I'm familiar with that failure. I think the failure of Monolith's "3.6v x 2" version with 2 x RCR123's was due to a shorted resistor, so it probably would have eventually failed even with 2 x 3v primaries, since the LED was getting the full voltage of both batteries. I don't really want to give the "3.6v x 2" version a reputation for not being able to take RCR123's based solely on that incident. However, just to be safe, I'm planning to check the value of the resistor in mine before I try the 3.6v rechargeables (though if it was shorted I suspect the LED would already have gone poof, I mainly want to make sure I've got the 3.2 ohm resistor that's normally in the "3.6v x 2" version rather than the 1 ohm resistor that's in the "Golston" version). 

I believe dcarch8 and regor have both bored the body out for a single 18650. I'd be interested in hearing more from them about that mod. 

I agree that the light really needs to be taken outside to be appreciated. After admiring the throw for a little while, I quickly decided to unscrew the bezel until just before the donut appeared in order to widen the hotspot. With the bezel all the way down, the hotspot is just too concentrated for shining on the ground at your feet.


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## lexina (Mar 27, 2006)

pbs357 said:


> FYI - I could not tell any difference in brightness between running 2xcr123a primaries vs. 1x17670 unprotected cell. Does anybody know if these will light, first try with protected 17670's? Thanks!


 
I only have the earlier version which does not accept 2 X 3.6v R123s. Protected 17670s will not fit in an unbored body and like you, I could not see any noticeable difference between primary 123s and an unprotected 17670.

Initially I was tempted to get the newer versions that can run 2 X R123s but now that it's been determined that this feat is achieved mainly by using a higher-value resistor, I am wondering if there will be any difference in brightness between the old Golston on 1 X 17670 and the new version on 2 X R123s. Has anyone compared the current in these 2 versions?


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## QUestorJones (Mar 27, 2006)

Anyone know if Dae is CURRENTLY shipping the Golston or the 3.6x2 version?

I got one on order, but it might take a while. I will update when I get it.

Can someone tell me how these compare the the Sreamlight 4xAA or the Fenix L1p and L2P?

Thanks


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## pbs357 (Mar 27, 2006)

igabo said:


> Does brightness decrease when using 17670 on your 3.6v x 2 version, compared to using primary CR123A's?


 
Igabo, the brightness on 1x17670 unprotected was the same as 2xcr123a on the 3.6vx2 marked lights also.

FYI: I forgot to mention that the LED/star on the 3.6vx2 lights is different than the one on my Golston. My Golston looks exactly like Magudaman's (post 158) for reference.


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## wquiles (Mar 27, 2006)

pbs357 said:


> Igabo, the brightness on 1x17670 unprotected was the same as 2xcr123a on the 3.6vx2 marked lights also.


Assuming that we have a simple resistor for current limit, this statement does not seem right to me. Maybe it is not day or night difference, but with just a resistor, the 1x17670 (4.2V charged) should in fact be "less" bright than using 2xCR123 cells (6V when new). If you have access to a light meter you should be able to verify this.

Will


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## Randy Shackleford (Mar 27, 2006)

*UPDATE:* dropped a TYOJ star in the golston. here is what is looks like now (on the left):




_*Left*_*- Golston "7W" w/TY0J Lux III *
_middle-_Unknown Lux V in Nuwai ALX 352L
_Right_- Q3 TX0J Luv III w/RCR123


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## pbs357 (Mar 27, 2006)

wquiles said:


> Assuming that we have a simple resistor for current limit, this statement does not seem right to me. Maybe it is not day or night difference, but with just a resistor, the 1x17670 (4.2V charged) should in fact be "less" bright than using 2xCR123 cells (6V when new). If you have access to a light meter you should be able to verify this.
> 
> Will


 
I don't know much about electronics/electricity and do not have access to a light meter. My comparison and observation is simply by my own eyes, outdoors, comparing brightness, throw and beam width. I used a DB-3w LED in a 3D mag as reference also. I would think that a 1.8v difference (at best), or 2.4v (at worst) that the difference versus 6v @ 2xcr123a should be at least visually obvious - but it's not. Lexina uses the same setup, and has had the same experience.


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## QUestorJones (Mar 29, 2006)

QUestorJones said:


> Anyone know if Dae is CURRENTLY shipping the Golston or the 3.6x2 version?
> 
> I got one on order, but it might take a while. I will update when I get it.
> 
> ...



Just got my order from Dae (QualityChinaGoods.com) and it is the Golston. WooHoo !!!! :naughty:

It does NOT say 3.6v x 2 (it says "Superbrite" on one side and "Golston" on the other)....this is the non-cool design.

I don't have too much to compare it too, but *by memory* it seems to blow the Fenix L1P away in every category (spot, spill, throw...but that's not surprising since the Fenix is a 1 watt). Of course, since there is no regualtion on the Golston, the Fenix L1P will likely outlast it in battery life. Unfortunately I have no meters or test equip, so I can't add more than that. 

I guess the biggest point (of this post) is that Dae seems to still be carrying the brighter "Golston" models that take the 3.0v batteries, at least he was a couple of weeks ago when mine shipped.


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## InfidelCastro (Mar 30, 2006)

It's runs for 60 minutes using CR123A primaries and "blows away" the Fenix L1P? That's not saying much.


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## QUestorJones (Mar 30, 2006)

InfidelCastro said:


> It's runs for 60 minutes using CR123A primaries and "blows away" the Fenix L1P? That's not saying much.



* Yeah, I KNOW that !* 

* That's why I added this:*
"I guess the biggest point (of this post) is that Dae seems to still be carrying the brighter "Golston" models that take the 3.0v batteries, at least he was a couple of weeks ago when mine shipped."

What I mean is that the Golston specs (already described in GREAT detail on the first few pages on this forum) should apply to the Dae Golston's as well. It seems the "Golston" marked ones kick ***, while the "2x3.6v" marked ones are less bright. Lately everyone is getting the "2x3.6v" versions...*I just wanted to point out that the "Golston" labeled ones are STILL available.*

Only compared it to the F1P as that is all I have to compare it too..*.I stated quite clearly that it wasn't much help.*

If you want to send me your $150 LED lights, I will be more than happy to do a side by side comparison....and post pictures. But I doubt I would get many takers.

:touche:


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## InfidelCastro (Mar 31, 2006)

I would assume the 3V Golston is more overdriven then the 3.6V I guess. Just speculating.


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## vortechs (Mar 31, 2006)

InfidelCastro said:


> I would assume the 3V Golston is more overdriven then the 3.6V I guess. Just speculating.



The "3.6V x 2" version has a 3.2 ohm resistor while the "Golston" version has a 1 ohm resistor. That means the "3.6V x 2" version has less voltage across the LED than the "Golston" version does when both are used with normal 3.0V primaries. Thus you are correct that the "Golston" (1 ohm) version will be more overdriven. 

If somebody can tell me how/where to measure current (I'm new to using my multimeter), I'll check what the current is on the "3.6V x 2" version running with 3.0V primaries.

[edit on April-17-2006: checked the resistor in one of my "3.6V x 2" versions with a good Fluke 83 multimeter, it is 3.2 ohms]


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## chevrofreak (Mar 31, 2006)

To get a true reading you're going to have to unhook one of the lead wires going to the LED and put your multimeter between the wire and the LED (one multimeter lead to the LED and the other to the wire that used to be hooked to the LED) and it will give the exact current usage of the LED.


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## chevrofreak (Mar 31, 2006)

Actually, after looking at the pics all you'll have to do is remove the screws holding the star to the heatsink and lift it up. Touch one of your multimeter leads to the heatsink and the other one to a - terminal on the star.

Don't run it for more than a second or so or you my overheat it.


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## vortechs (Mar 31, 2006)

wquiles said:


> Man, oh man, this light "screams" to be modded with a good LED constant current converter. For a 3W LED, a Downboy would allow you to pretty much use two primaries or two rechargables, and for a single LiIon cell, the Wiz2 from the Shoppe should be perfect.


 
Has anybody tried installing a constant current converter in a "Golston" or similar "7w Super Bright" light yet? Somebody mentioned that there was room in the 'can' for a sandwich (converter), but has anybody done the mod yet? I would be interested in reading about the results and in seeing step by step instructions for people who are new to sandwiches.


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## Randy Shackleford (Apr 6, 2006)

anyone run a mAh test on the 3.6x2 (3 ohm resitor) version w/ two fully charged RCR123's?

*UPDATE: ~1200mAh*


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## sphynx_000 (Apr 6, 2006)

I apologize, this has probably allready been mentioned...

What kind of run times can you get? both with regular cells, and 3.6 volt rechargables?

I know it not regulated, but how well does it hold its brightness?




EDIT: I figured out how to search within the thread and have a good idea about runtime now. Unless someone has new info of course.


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## AW (Apr 6, 2006)

vortechs said:


> Has anybody tried installing a constant current converter in a "Golston" or similar "7w Super Bright" light yet? Somebody mentioned that there was room in the 'can' for a sandwich (converter), but has anybody done the mod yet? I would be interested in reading about the results and in seeing step by step instructions for people who are new to sandwiches.


 

Well, I have replaced the clone luxeon with a TXOH / AMC7135 700mA board. I have also bored out the battery tube to use a protected 18650. Now I have over 3 hours of regulated runtime :naughty: .


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## sphynx_000 (Apr 6, 2006)

where can you get the AMC7135 700mA board?

how complicated was the mod?


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## sphynx_000 (Apr 6, 2006)

AW, I noticed you sell rechargable lithium batteries...

I was wondering if they have the same shelf life as regular lithium batteries?


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## vortechs (Apr 6, 2006)

I happened to notice an eBay auction for some LED's that look like they may be the same as the LED in the Golston. They are listed as "High brightness 1 pcs 3W White LED 80 lm" by seller sureelectronics in China (here) (if the link doesn't work just search under that seller's name). Starting bid is $3.99 + $3 shipping, the 'buy it now' version is listed at $4.99 + $3 shipping (there is another listing with 10 for $45 + $15 shipping). If you look at the picture, you can see the word "LUMILEDS" stamped on it, so it would appear that they've cloned the markings as well (as seen in the Golstons that have been opened). I am just posting this here to see if anyone else has further information and to identify a possible source for replacement "stock" LED's for the Golston.


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## vortechs (Apr 6, 2006)

sphynx_000 said:


> AW, I noticed you sell rechargable lithium batteries...
> 
> I was wondering if they have the same shelf life as regular lithium batteries?



Rechargeable Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) batteries have a fairly low self discharge rate compared to other types of rechargeable batteries (like Ni-Cad and NiMH). I don't know what their shelf life is, but I remember reading a thread where somebody was doing a test with a cell they had bought years ago and periodically testing its voltage. There is more info available in the "Flashlight Electronics - Batteries Included" Forum (sorry, I don't have any good links to appropriate threads, so you'll need to search).

AW is a good seller who is highly regarded here on CPF. He may have additional info for you. 

I believe the inventor/developer of the Li-Ion battery is here on CPF. [edit: correction, I believe I was thinking of the person who introduced CR123 sized Li-Ion cells to CPF.]


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## FirstDsent (Apr 6, 2006)

I'm going to mod one of these. I don't know how to select a Luxeon III. Can someone suggest an appropriate emitter for this light with the existing resistor? I want max. brightness like the OEM. Can someone suggest a combo emitter/sandwich that may match or exceed the output of the stock emitter? I've never installed electronics, but I may give it a try if I can make it really bright.

Oh yeah, see my sig line. the new emitter must be at least slightly overdiven. I want "brighness/flat discharge" not "long runtime/flat discharge"

I will use a K-2 if someone can guide me in the selection of that emitter.

Any help? I promise to post gratuitously including comparative beamshots if I get it to work!

Thank you,
Bernie


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## Navck (Apr 6, 2006)

vortechs said:


> Rechargeable Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) batteries have a fairly low self discharge rate compared to other types of rechargeable batteries (like Ni-Cad and NiMH). I don't know what their shelf life is, but I remember reading a thread where somebody was doing a test with a cell they had bought years ago and periodically testing its voltage. There is more info available in the "Flashlight Electronics - Batteries Included" Forum (sorry, I don't have any good links to appropriate threads, so you'll need to search).
> 
> AW is a good seller who is highly regarded here on CPF. He may have additional info for you.
> 
> I believe the inventor/developer of the Li-Ion battery is here on CPF.



The one who brought us protected ones is here. (JSB)
The person who invented Li Ions... Uhh, hes dead by now...


> Gilbert N. Lewis pioneered lithium batteries in 1912; the first non-rechargable cells were created in the early 1970s. The first commercial lithium ion battery was created by Sony in 1991, following research by a team led by John B. Goodenough.


Wikipedia - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_ion


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## vortechs (Apr 9, 2006)

FlashKat said:


> I just got my cooler design from Dae, and this flashlight works GREAT!!!! The finish and quality is very good!!!!! It also has a momentary tailcap switch button. The light output is brighter than my SL 2L 3W which is great. I just ordered my second one today. It also works perfectly with my 3.0 volt rechargeable batteries from Batteryspace.com (Not the 3.6 volt).



I noticed that FlashKat reported that her 'cooler design' Golston died after using 3.0V Li-Ion batteries for a couple of days. 

I was just looking at the ad for some Powerizer 3.0V Li-Ion rechargeable batteries (on BatteryJunction.com) and saw the following notes: 

[font=arial, helvetica]Peak voltage of 3.0V Li-Ion will be 3.9 V after fully charged. [/font]

[font=arial, helvetica]Once loaded, cell's voltage will drop to 3.6 - 3.2V It is perfect for cameras, and compact flashlights with bulb voltage > = 7.2V ( Not recommended for light bulb < 7.2V ) [/font]
Maybe that helps explain why FlashKat's Golston died. If 3.0V Li-Ion rechargeable batteries really deliver up to 3.6V under load when they are fully charged, that might be enough to burn out the LED in the already overdriven Golston. We might want to warn people to only use the 3.0V Li-Ions in the "3.6V x 2" version (or increase the value of the 1 ohm resistor in the standard version).


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## vortechs (Apr 9, 2006)

Greetings everyone, 

We should make a list of the Golston's that have failed so far and the cause of failure. Going on memory, I think there has been 4 reported failures: 

1 normal version that died immediately with 3.6V Li-Ion's. 

1 normal 'cooler shape' version that died after a couple of days with 3.0V Li-Ions.

1 "3.6V x 2" version that failed immediately because the resistor was shorted (QC problem).

1 that died after about 30 minutes of use (no special circumstances listed, appeared to be a QC problem with the LED).


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## MattK (Apr 9, 2006)

SuperNinja said:


> You might be better off with the Mag Lite for intruders.



Maglite with a TerraLUX TLE-DB3 upgrade so when you bash 'em your flashlight still makes light and doesn't need a bulb replacement - and it's brighter than stock!


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## FlashKat (Apr 9, 2006)

Originally Dae's website mentioned that it could take rechargeable batteries, but if you check it now it tells you it will not take rechageables at all!!!!! He should have done more testing. I also ask him for a cheap way to repair and all he did was question me on why it died after I told him what I was using...I just wanted to repair it even willing to pay, but it is not worth the hassle.

Good Luck To Everybody



vortechs said:


> Greetings everyone,
> 
> We should make a list of the Golston's that have failed so far and the cause of failure. Going on memory, I think there has been 4 reported failures:
> 
> ...


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## Randy Shackleford (Apr 10, 2006)

Why not just replace the fried LED star with a real LUX III? That's what I did.

some below:


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## Malfuntion (Apr 10, 2006)

Well it´s about time to make my first mods and I´m using the 7W Golston.

And i´ll like som help with what resistor too use.

The first mod is with a lux III LXHL-PW09-TX0H.
It will not be regulated and I´ll guess i´ll keep the resistor.

The second mod I´ll will do is to use a Lux V LXHL-LW6C-WX0T
And since it cost me 38$ I don´t want to burn it.

Lumileds state that drive current chould be 700mA
Forward Voltage min 5,43 typ 6,84 max 8,31

What resistor could I use if the lux V is driven by

cr123 or 3,0V rcr123
or
18650
or
17670


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## txkaratedude (Apr 10, 2006)

Does anyone have a comparison of the 2 versions of these? I was wondering if there was an appreciable differerence between them. I emailed Dae and asked if he still had the older version and he said no.


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## pbs357 (Apr 10, 2006)

txkaratedude,

I have both the original/older GOLSTON marked light as well as a few of the 3.7v x 2 marked lights. Both are bright, but the 3.7v marked ones are a bit less intense in output. There is a difference (at least between the 2 versions that I have) but not a huge one. That being said, it is still a great LED thrower with great runtime.

One big note here: I use an unprotected 17670 in both of my "7w" lights, and there is only a _slight_ difference in output vs. 2xcr123. I didn't notice on an outdoor test, but in my bedroom, all lights off I could tell a very slight difference. So, 2 things: 1) 17670 gives long runtime on "free lumens," and 2) I can run either battery configuration, meaning I keep a 17670 in the body, and a few cr123's in the car for spares/backup/etc. I can't say the same thing about my 6p that I have loaded with a 9v lamp and 2x unprotected rcr123's.


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## Randy Shackleford (Apr 10, 2006)

what is the comparison like for between the 3 ohm (3.6x2) on RCR123 x 2 and the 1 ohm on CR123 x 2? 



Are they about the same visible lumens?


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## FlashKat (Apr 10, 2006)

I actually thought about replacing it with a LUX III, but I feel that if I have to spend more money on it I would be better off buying another Streamlight 2L 3W Luxeon which is almost as bright with 2 levels of brightness, and has a lifetime warranty in the United States. The Streamlight has also been very reliable.


Randy Shackleford said:


> Why not just replace the fried LED star with a real LUX III? That's what I did.


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## stjohnh (Apr 11, 2006)

PBS357

How did you get the 17670 cells to fit in the light? Aren't they a little too long?

Thanks
Holladn


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## igabo (Apr 11, 2006)

An unprotected 17670 from lighthound works fine for me.


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## vortechs (Apr 11, 2006)

vortechs said:


> The "3.6V x 2" version has a 3.2 ohm resistor while the "Golston" version has a 1 ohm resistor. That means the "3.6V x 2" version has less voltage across the LED than the "Golston" version does when both are used with normal 3.0V primaries. Thus you are correct that the "Golston" (1 ohm) version will be more overdriven.
> 
> If somebody can tell me how/where to measure current (I'm new to using my multimeter), I'll check what the current is on the "3.6V x 2" version running with 3.0V primaries.



Thanks to chevrofreak and others for the simple instructions on how to disassemble the flashlight and where to measure the current. 

I unscrewed the head, removed the black plastic cover from over the star, unscrewed the two tiny screws holding the star in place and lifted up the star. The star has the word "LUMILEDS" stamped on it but there is no bin code (or any other writing) on the back, so it appears to be a clone. 

My multimeter shows that the LED in my "3.6V x 2" version is drawing just a bit less than 750ma on two CR123 primaries (with about 10 minutes of runtime on them) [see correction below]. The voltage across the LED seems to be about 4.2V. 

The eBay listing for 3W white LED's that I mentioned in an earlier post gives the following statistics: 

Lens Color : Water Clear
Emitted Color : White
Intensity Typ. : 70~80Lm
Viewing Angle : 160°
Forward Voltage : 3.6v-4.0v
Forward Current : 650mA

Assuming that this is the same clone LED that is in the Golston and "3.6V x 2" versions of the "Super Bright Waterproof" lights, it appears to be somewhat overdriven even on 2 primaries, so I'm reluctant to try Li-Ion's until I check the resistance. Would someone let me know how/where to measure the resistor?

[edit: The multimeter I was using was not very good quality. I now have a good Fluke 77 and got a reading of 460mA.]


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## Randy Shackleford (Apr 11, 2006)

vortechs said:


> I'm reluctant to try Li-Ion's until I check the resistance. Would someone let me know how/where to measure the resistor?


 
Thanks for the info on the "3.6V x 2".

Check resistance by removing the batteries, unscrewing the star assembly/heat sink, and running an ohmeter across the the postive wire and the tip of the battery contact at the other end of the assembly.

*FlashKat:* PM'd you.


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## larryk (Apr 11, 2006)

Hi, I just ordered one of these lights and some unprotected rechargeable (LIR123A) 3.6 volt batteries last week. The site states that I can use these cells or regular 123's. From what I've been reading it seems like the 3.6 volt rechargeables will burn out the LED ?


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## vortechs (Apr 11, 2006)

Thanks for the instructions. 

I thought I might be doing something wrong somehow, but it appears the battery on my multimeter was just going out. It took me a few tries to get a good connection to the positive terminal (reaching into the tube with the probe). The values I was getting were somewhat erratic. Then I tried simply shorting the test leads together and still got an erratic reading, so I replaced the battery in my multimeter. 

With a different battery in my multimeter, I'm now reading near zero resistance. I tried several times and either I'm touching the wrong parts or I've got a shorted resistor.

[edit April-17-2006: I used a better multimeter and read 3.2 ohms]


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## vortechs (Apr 11, 2006)

I just disassembled my other "3.6V x 2" (I got 2 from AXShop) and measured it as well. I got basically the same readings. 

Using two CR123 primaries (Duracell DL123A) I measured 750ma and 4.3V. 

I measure almost no resistance from the positive battery contact to where the black wire attaches to the star (being careful not to touch anything with my hands and not to allow the star to touch the body). Same result when touching the other positive terminal on the star. 

Am I doing something wrong, or is it just really common for the resistor to be shorted in the "3.6V x 2" version (since Monolith reported a shorted resistor in his "3.6V x 2" version)?

[edit April-17-2006: Note that I was doing "wrong" was using a cheap multimeter I happened to have laying around home. I later borrowed a Fluke 83 and got better results; 3.2 ohms]


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## Monolith (Apr 11, 2006)

AW's new protected 17670 with the label removed works for me.


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## Monolith (Apr 11, 2006)

vortechs said:


> Am I doing something wrong, or is it just really common for the resistor to be shorted in the "3.6V x 2" version (since Monolith reported a shorted resistor in his "3.6V x 2" version)?


Wasn't a short. I used 3.6 volt rechargeables which are 4.2 volts each fresh from the charger. 3 volt rechargeables are 3.6 volts fresh from the charger and is what is meant by the label on the side of the light (I just found out the hard way).


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## Randy Shackleford (Apr 11, 2006)

vortechs said:


> I just disassembled my other "3.6V x 2" (I got 2 from AXShop) and measured it as well. I got basically the same readings.
> 
> Using two CR123 primaries (Duracell DL123A) I measured 750ma and 4.3V.
> 
> ...


 
The positive lead on the regular version of the light is actually the lead of the resistor on my light. 

Again:

Check resistance by removing the batteries, unscrewing the star assembly/heat sink, and running an ohmeter across the the postive wire (on the star) and the tip of the_ *battery contact*_ *at the other end of the assembly.* (not the star)


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## vortechs (Apr 13, 2006)

Randy Shackleford said:


> The positive lead on the regular version of the light is actually the lead of the resistor on my light.
> 
> Again:
> 
> Check resistance by removing the batteries, unscrewing the star assembly/heat sink, and running an ohmeter across the the postive wire (on the star) and the tip of the_ *battery contact*_ *at the other end of the assembly.* (not the star)



Hi Randy, 

Thanks for the instructions. That is exactly what I did. I disassembled the light by unscrewing the tailcap and bezel, removing the black plastic cover from the star and unscrewing two tiny screws that hold the star to the top of the light. I then reached inside the empty battery tube with one probe of the multimeter and touched it to the positive battery contact. Touched the other probe to the point where the wire that comes out of the body attaches to the star (the positive side of the star) (while the star was hanging by its wire and was not touching the body at all). The resistance seems to be near zero. I got the same result from touching the probe to the other positive terminal on the star or to the positive foot of the LED. I initially tried this with the star removed from the top of the light and just hanging by the short wire (since I had it disassembled to measure current), but I also tried to measure the resistance between the positive battery contact inside the tube and the positive side of the star with the star attached to the top of the light and got the same result, near zero resistance. 

Just to prove I could get different readings and that some other measurements would work as expected, I tried between the positive battery contact and the negative side of the star; this shows very high resistance. I also tried between the top of the light (where the star rests) and the bottom threading; this shows near zero resistance as expected since the body is the path for the negative side of the circuit. I also tried between the negative side of the star and the bottom threading (with the star attached) and got near zero resistance. Ok, so I was mainly just proving there is a complete circuit, but I was also trying to see if there was some resistance hiding somewhere else in the circuit. 

Next I measured the voltage of the two CR123A cells together in series and got about 6.4V. Then I put the two cells into the tube and (without putting the tail cap on) measured the voltage between the negative side of the bottom battery and the positive terminal on the star (where the wire connects); it showed the same 6.4V. Then I put the tailcap on, turned the light on and measured the voltage across the LED with the light on; it showed about 4.2V. 

I didn't do as extensive testing with the other light, but it too showed zero resistance between the postive battery contact inside the tube and point where the wire that comes out of the top of the light attaches to the star (with the star detached).


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## Randy Shackleford (Apr 13, 2006)

vortechs said:


> The resistance seems to be near zero. ....same result, near zero resistance.
> 
> ...the bottom threading; this shows near zero resistance ...near zero resistance.


 
humm... 

Care to quantifiy "near zero resistance"? Usually a decent ohmmeter reads the number "zero" *exactly* or it reads a number.

1 is near zero. 3 is near zero (relatively speaking)


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## vortechs (Apr 13, 2006)

Randy Shackleford said:


> humm...
> 
> Care to quantifiy "near zero resistance"? Usually a decent ohmmeter reads the number "zero" *exactly* or it reads a number.
> 
> 1 is near zero. 3 is near zero (relatively speaking)



Sorry for being a bit vague. I'll quantify "near" as "within one marking on my analog multimeter", so when I say "near zero" it means "less than 0.2 Ohms". I definitely would have reported any significant reading above 0.2 Ohms, since the numbers that I expected to see were something like 3.2 Ohms or 1.0 Ohms. Sometimes there is a bit of 'wobble' on the dial while I'm trying to take a measurement, depending on how good of contact I'm getting with the probes. 

I'm using a cheap analog multimeter (Sperry model SP-5A), so I don't expect too much from it. For the resistance readings, there is a calibration knob on the side to set the 'zero' point. So to prepare for a resistance reading, I need to set the multimeter's main selector switch for resistance "OHM X1K", then calibrate the reading by touching the probes together and adjust the knob on the side until the ohm reading is zero (or at least pretty close).

One of the reasons my last post included all of the extra resistance measurments between different points on the light (such as between the top of the light where the star normally sits and the threading at the bottom of the battery tube) was to increase my confidence that I was getting the same reading on the analog multimeter dial for something that should be zero resistance as I was for the reading between the positive battery terminal inside the tube and where the black wire connects to the star.


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## Randy Shackleford (Apr 13, 2006)

if you have a shorted resistor, the LED would probably die the instant you turned the light on.


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## Monolith (Apr 13, 2006)

Vortechs - I normally would use a 20 ohm range setting or less for a 1-2 ohm reading, especially with an analog meter. The 1K range setting may not be sensitive enough. Try it using a known 1-3 ohm resistor and see if it can measure it.


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## Randy Shackleford (Apr 13, 2006)

yes, the OHM X1K Range is bit much to test one ohm


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## vortechs (Apr 13, 2006)

Thanks for the advice. The inexpensive multimeter I'm using only has one setting for resistance and it is 1K OHM (full scale), otherwise I would have tried a different setting. The dial markings for resistance looks logrithmic, so the numbers for 1 to 10 ohms take up 2/3rds of the dial, with the markings for 20 through 1K ohms all crammed at one edge of the dial. This led me to believe it would work sufficiently well for readings under 10 ohms, but I have not tried it against a known resistor (I'm not sure if I have any sitting around, I'm not a serious modder so my stock of supplies is quite limited). It appears that I might need better equipment if I'm going to be taking accurate resistance readings.


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## Randy Shackleford (Apr 13, 2006)

I was going to say "perhaps it is time for a new multimeter " earlier, but I did not want to sound smug.


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## dulridge (Apr 14, 2006)

Randy Shackleford said:


> anyone run a mAh test on the 3.6x2 (3 ohm resitor) version w/ two fully charged RCR123's?



Mine started at 1.6A dropping constantly to about 1.4A after a minute or so. This was measured by using the multimeter leads instead of the switch as not involving any dismantling. 

1.4A @ 7.92V (The cells went in at 4.02V) is 11W! No wonder the voltage and current were dropping as I watched.

A single 17670 gave 380mA @ 4.15V or about 1.6W. 

Doing some rather crude light meter measurements, the difference in output was about 2 f-stops or a factor of 4 less bright with a 17670


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## QUestorJones (Apr 15, 2006)

I can't remember if I posted this earlier in the thread (so forgive me if it is a repeat).

I found another site that "seems" to carry the "Brighter" version of the Golston, as well as what Dae describes as the "cool" version.

The site is called www.FifthUnit.com and is rumored to be the new Axshop reincarnation....but that's just a rumor.

Anyway, I have ordered from them and got my order in 14 days (not bad from Hong Kong).

I did not order the Golston becuase I already have one , but the pictures indicate they are selling the "bright" version. I got mine from Dae, and it was about the same rice when shipping is factored in (Dae ships free). Only difference I see is that Dae charges about $2 more for the "cool" version but FifthUnit charges same price for both $22.75+$4.20 shipping (you also get a cheap LED pen light...comes in a little plastic bag without batteries for 1 cent). 


Anyway, here's the link:

Regular version:
http://contents.fifthunit.com/html/products.5th/sku.21.html

"Cool Version":
http://contents.fifthunit.com/html/products.5th/sku.89.html


Like I said, it looks like the Golston, but I don't know for sure

*Note: I have no affiliation to site except as a customer


UPDATED
Question:
*Does anyone know why this laser pointer is $39.99 ??*
http://contents.fifthunit.com/html/products.5th/sku.91.html

*It takes bigger batteries than most lasers (2xAAs, intead of watch batteries), but other than that it doesn't seem very special to me. Any ideas?

:huh2:


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## batvette (Apr 16, 2006)

Takes 2x AAA's and if it's a green laser with a visible spot at 6,000 ft. that isn't too out of line for such an animal, IMO. It's 5mw as advertised but who knows. Start getting into 40-60 mw and you can easily go several hundred dollars. 

Too bad so many idiots think it's funny to point these things at planes. I live in the departing flight path of Lindbergh Int'l in San Diego and I would not want to have my neighbors all know I had a laser and took it out and played with it. Next time they have some nut job on a tear prolifically trying to blind pilots with one of these the neighbors would call the tip line (as they should) and you'd have to convince the authorities it wasn't you. 

Stupid people always ruin it so we can't have the fun toys. When I was a kid you had cool toys like lawn darts. Remember lawn darts? "Aw, look at little Timmy, he's been out playing and now has a STEEL SPIKE in his little skull. Isn't he just darling?" Used to be you could get fireworks, good stuff. If it doesn't explode or fly a long ways off and start fires wherever it lands, what the hell is the point? Safe and sane? BAH! I'll take fun instead.


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## igabo (Apr 16, 2006)

Can someone tell me how much total resistance they get from their 2x3.6v version? (Measured from + end battery contact to the + wire going into the LED itself) Preferably the one sold by Dae.

EDIT: To answer the Randy's question, I get about 4 ohm resistance (2x3.6v version from axshop, 200 ohm scale, cheap DMM) from end of positive battery contact to positive wire into LED.

Safe enough to run 3.6v R123's?


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## dulridge (Apr 16, 2006)

igabo said:


> Can someone tell me how much total resistance they get from their 2x3.6v version? Preferably the one sold by Dae.



Bought from Dae - 1.9 ohms probably plus or minus about 0.2 given that it is a cheap multimeter that has had a hard life.


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## igabo (Apr 16, 2006)

dulridge said:


> Bought from Dae - 1.9 ohms probably plus or minus about 0.2 given that it is a cheap multimeter that has had a hard life.



and thats the 2x3.6v version correct? Can't be too careful.


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## dulridge (Apr 16, 2006)

igabo said:


> Safe enough to run 3.6v R123's?



Mine does - quite happily for playing with - just had the thing a week and it has been through 3 sets of recharging.


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## dulridge (Apr 16, 2006)

igabo said:


> and thats the 2x3.6v version correct? Can't be too careful.



It is

Delighted with it.

It is probably going to spend most of its life with 17670's in it (about 1/4 of the brightness) as I've just pulled apart what I thought was a dead laptop battery pack - it was the laptop, not the battery pack. All of the Sony cells in it that I've tested so far are fine. And you can't beat the price!

Note the power consumption I mentioned above - it gets pretty hot though it seems to sink it well into the tube. My concern is what it might do to the RCR123 cells if they got too hot. It doesn't noticeably warm up on a 17670 and can still illuminate the bottom of my garden (about 70 feet) quite happily which is handy for finding small black dogs in the dark. With RCR123 the spill illuminates the full width of the bottom of the garden (can't remember, about 35-40 feet seems right) enough for dog spotting. With a 17670 I need to move the hot spot about a bit.


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## igabo (Apr 16, 2006)

WOW! Just tried it; and it's awesome.. way better than on 17670. Have a comparison video and comparison beamshots if anyone wants to see.

Thanks Dulridge!! :rock:


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## igabo (Apr 16, 2006)

It's dead.. . I tried it with freshly charged R123 cells though; so that probably wasn't such a great idea. If you bought yours from Dae, you should be fine however, but if you got yours from axshop, don't use R123's.

Anyway, it's best to look to the bright side; so speaking of bright, where can I get a good, genuine LuxIII to replace the dead clone?

EDIT: It's not actually the star as I discovered.. I tried measuring resistance once again to figure out what kind of star I would be looking for, but when I tried, to measure resistance (positive contact to wire into the star) and nothing showed up on my DMM. So, does anyone know how to open one of these suckers up to replace the resistor?


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## BobbyRS (Apr 17, 2006)

QUestorJones said:


> Does anyone know why this laser pointer is $39.99 ??
> *http://contents.fifthunit.com/html/products.5th/sku.91.html*
> 
> It takes bigger batteries than most lasers (2xAAs, intead of watch batteries), but other than that it doesn't seem very special to me. Any ideas?


 
Well, the prices of these lasers have been coming down. $40-50 range is about what is expected for this type of mw laser. The fact that it is continuous wave and not pulsed makes it a pretty good price if you ask me. I wonder how well it could be pot modded....


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## vortechs (Apr 18, 2006)

BobbyRS said:


> Well, the prices of these lasers have been coming down. $40-50 range is about what is expected for this type of mw laser. The fact that it is continuous wave and not pulsed makes it a pretty good price if you ask me. I wonder how well it could be pot modded....



Please keep this thread on the topic of the "Golston" 2xCR123A Super Bright Waterproof light and its variants (the "cooler" version and the "3.6V x 2" version). There are other threads to discuss lasers. Thank you very much.


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## vortechs (Apr 18, 2006)

I borrowed Fluke 83 multimeter and used it to check one of my "3.6V x 2" lights from AXShop (using two 3V primaries). Since this is a much better multimeter than that cheap one I had been using, the readings seem to be more reliable. Randy was quite right, it is definitely time to get a decent multimeter if I'm going to try to post any readings here on CPF. Here are the readings I got with the Fluke 83: 

Resistance (positive battery contact to positive terminal on the star): 3.2 ohms
Batteries: 3.040V, 3.039V; both in series 6.06V (Duracell DL123A 3V primaries)
Voltage drop across the LED: 3.4V (somewhere between 3.41 and 3.45V) 
Current: 395 mA (somewhere between 380 and 405 mA)

The current measurment varied somewhere between 405 mA and 380 mA. I tried it both with the star off, measuring from the star to the body, and with the star on and the tailcap off, measuring from the negative end of the second battery to the body. I got a fairly stable reading of 395.5 mA after about a minute of running the LED with the tail cap off and measuring the current from the negative battery terminal to the body.

Hope these numbers sound more reasonable. I don't have any 123-sized Li-Ion batteries yet, so I can't take any measurements with rechargeables. 

From the sound of things, I might want to be very careful with 3.6V Li-Ions at full charge (4.2V). Has anyone successfully used the "3.6V x 2" version with two 3.6V Li-Ion batteries for an extended time (several battery charges)?


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## BobbyRS (Apr 18, 2006)

vortechs said:


> Please keep this thread on the topic of the "Golston" 2xCR123A Super Bright Waterproof light and its variants (the "cooler" version and the "3.6V x 2" version). There are other threads to discuss lasers. Thank you very much.


 
Sorry, but he asked, I answered. Perhaps you are asking this of the wrong person. It isn't like it is a question/answer that has over-taken the thread. I could have sent it to him in a PM, but then again, others who have read or even replied about it here may have wanted to know as well.


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## dulridge (Apr 18, 2006)

vortechs said:


> From the sound of things, I might want to be very careful with 3.6V Li-Ions at full charge (4.2V). Has anyone successfully used the "3.6V x 2" version with two 3.6V Li-Ion batteries for an extended time (several battery charges)?



Not sure if my usage counts as extended, but I have run 4 pairs of RCR123's down in it. My charger cuts off at about 4.12V so they may not be utterly fully charged. 

It is very bright, probably too bright for most indoors usage. But with it drawing over 1.5 amps and the way I can watch the current and voltage dropping like a stone does not inspire me as to its longevity. 2 cells in at 4.1V (each), ten minutes running, current started at 1.6A dropped to about 1.35A, voltage dropped to 3.1 which recovered to 3.7 as the batteries cooled down. Even if I believed the 800mAh rating on the batteries, 2C is pushing it on discharge. 

If I were to run it regularly on RCR, I'd want to throw in a 10W 8 ohm resistor to get the current to around an amp. It meaures at 1.9 ohms which on a current draw of 1.6A, Implies it is dropping the voltage to 3V from a feed of 8.2V. This sounds highly improbable - any corrections to my arithmetic very welcome.

Have decided to keep the RCR123's for playing and to use 17670's in it mostly. It is still plenty bright enough for indoors use, measured as about a quarter of the output on 2 batteries. Current draw is about 385mA.

It also doesn't heat up so alarmingly. The longest it has run on RCR batteries is about 20-30 mins (probably) when it got turned on while on my belt and I didn't notice till I felt something hot against my leg. It was unpleasantly hot when I took it apart to let it cool faster. Given some of the warnings here, I'm not keen on letting Li batteries get hot.

Given that mine emitted a nasty smell this morning - it would appear to have eaten its resistor, I really, really wouldn't run them on two rechargeables. Now time to find out how to get it apart and replace the resistor. Ah well...


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## stjohnh (Apr 18, 2006)

*Differences: cr123a versions--AXShop vs Fifthunit.com*

I now have 2 Golston 7Watt lights, first from AXshop a couple of months ago, and my new one from Fifthunit.com. These are both the primary cr123a, non-rechargable versions.

At first they look identical except that the Fifthunit version is flat black and the Axshop version gloss black. Both appear equally bright, nice white tint, nice even beam pattern.

But what a surprise on opening the new one up:

Tail Cap Clickie: entirely different, new one has a spring loaded plunger to contact the neg end of the battery, much nicer than the standard spring of the AxShop version.

"Lumileds" star: the old one has the black coating all over the star, the new one has a thin uncoated area running the perimeter of the star. Both say "Lumileds" in poorly formed letters (but at least it is spelled correctly). No bin codes on the back of either one. Both have a 1 ohm resistor.

Body: The glossy Axshop version is milled out of a very sustantial chunk of aluminum, walls are about 4mm thick. The newer Fifthunit version has walls about 1.5mm thick with a plastic tube spacer to keep the batteries from rattling.

Reflector assembly: this is the only part that is not substantially different.

Anyway, I was surprised at how different these lights are constructed, but how similar they perform and appear externally. The thinner body of the new one may have been done to save on aluminum costs and also may allow the same body to be used (without the plastic tube) with 18650 cells.

Holland

Edit: Oops, the new body light DOES have the same thick metal walls, what I thought was a pressed black plastic insert was actually black coated aluminum. I just scratched it with a razor knife... definitely not plastic.

Holland


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## FirstDsent (Apr 19, 2006)

> Originally Posted by *stjohnh*:
> Tail Cap Clickie: entirely different, new one has a spring loaded plunger to contact the neg end of the battery, much nicer than the standard spring of the AxShop version.


While nicer, the new style tailcap is just a brass plunger in a plastic threaded retainer on top of the old-style clickie. That modification was necessitated by the revised "can" that the star is mounted to. The original Golston had a long stem on the bottom of the can taking up abouty .5" in the battery tube. the new can is flush. The plunger in the tailcap takes up the .5" now. While it looks better, it adds additional resistance in the circuit. 

The original Golston had a "fatal flaw" (title of the CPF thread). The reflector could smash the emitter leads when the head was screwed all the way down. Several early failures were attributed to this flaw. The manufacturer corrected this by making a smaller diameter flange on the emitter can, and fitting a plastic hood over the assembly. The reflector now bottoms out on the hood. 

It is easy to dismiss cheap chinese lights as low-quality, high volume ebay specials, but this light seems to be an intermediate quality. It has excellent machining, a great emitter, and an attempt to improve teh quality problems. 

I want to see more of this type of intermediate quality, value-priced light. 

Bernie


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## Randy Shackleford (Apr 22, 2006)

I have have noticed some differences between the "cooler" shape and the regular. My regular shape (from Dae) has a glass lens, the cooler shape had a plastic lens. Easy enough to replace, but a stock glass lens is an attractive feature. The cooler shape's lens is a little more difficult to access because you have to completely unscrew the reflector from the head and it takes a little time, but I was able to drop a mineral crystal glass lens (27.5 mm) in there and it is all better now.






Also, the regular shape came with two o-rings on body per end. The cooler shape had only oring one on each end, but a space for a second o-ring on each end. Again, easy enough to correct. 

But most importantly,*



>>>The regular shape has a bigger/wider reflector<<<



.* This a significant difference. The regular shape has nice tight spot with great throw & no doughnut ring. The cooler shape has a doughnut ring and the spot is smaller, yet not as tight ---and I found the throw is only sightly less on the cooler shape (the smaller spot makes a difference at a distance).


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## CaLux (Apr 22, 2006)

What's real life could be
No matter the LED is a clone or overdriven or both
Can anyone tell the overall run time of this torch ?
If Luxeon is 50K-100K, can this one run for 5K and even worse ?


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## Northern Lights (Apr 22, 2006)

Recently to see if there is any resale value to both models of the Golston I placed about twelve, mixed lot, in the hands of police patrol officers. If they are cop proof they should be ok to sell without a lot of returns.
So far I have encountered 3 swithces that the retaining ring inside the cap, not the spacer holding the brass plunger, was about 1/4 turn loose and these were intermittent. Not a big deal just means I must check each light that I get before I move it on. That ring is on the far right of the photo.

One 3.0 V Golston fried the LED. I got it back, the LED was flickering and dim. I watched it die!. It was powered on 3.0 V protected Powerizer brand rechargeables. Add this to the count. This one may have been from the Axshop.

Here is a simple improvement. I added rubber ring on the tube to support your fingers when using the clickie and it can be used to hold a lanyard by throwing a loop of cord through it. I SUPER glued another one to the base and it protects the clickie and now the light stands in the "candlestick mode". It made a very nice rim for the switch. The O-rings are from ACE Hardware. They are sold in packs of ten as garden hose gaskets, found in the garden hose section. The bag of 10 was $1.79. They are called Colorite universa O-ring washer for lawn and garden products.


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## FirstDsent (Apr 22, 2006)

I just got a Nextorch clickie tailcap from Emilions Workbench to put on my Golston original 7W. http://emilionworkshop.com/oscommerce/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=62&osCsid=b760f6d08197554551d45dbd74f68a0b

I hoped it would be a true (tactical) clickie, but it isn't. It is a reverse clickie just like the OEM. However, it is very nice, and allows the light to stand on its tail. The diameters match at the joint for an OEM look. The Nextorch has a slightly duller finish than the original Golston gloss black, and is much shinier than the new matte black finish. It does not have a bulging section like the Golston tailcap, so it gives the light a sleeker look like a 6P.

The Nextorch cap has a nice audible and tactile click, and is likely good quality, but cannot be taken apart without ruining it. I tried to fit it with the cap-and-plunger assembly from a newer style "2 X 3.6V" light, but it won't work. 

If you have trouble with your original Golston 7W, get this tailcap for $3.50 from Emilion.

FYI: The interchangeablility of tailcaps with the Nextorch line suggest SureFire compatibility. Maybe I'll try a SF tailcap.

Bernie


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## lexina (Apr 22, 2006)

FirstDsent said:


> FYI: The interchangeablility of tailcaps with the Nextorch line suggest SureFire compatibility. Maybe I'll try a SF tailcap.
> 
> Bernie


 
yes, i reported on this back in post #18. glad to see that since then, many more people have enjoyed this light as much as me. i have to admit though that i have found a new favourite -

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/115465


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## Blackheart (Apr 22, 2006)

This looks like the flashlight everyone is talking about. How much for new bulbs?


QUOTE:
*[font=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Features
[/font]**[font=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif] - 500 - 1000 hours bulb life
- 40 times brighter than standard LEDs
- Water resistant
[/font]*

http://cgi.ebay.com/7-Watt-Luxeon-LED-Handtorch-Rechargable-Flashlight_W0QQitemZ8798022011QQcategoryZ16037QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## TooManyGizmos (Apr 22, 2006)

..:huh2:




Blackheart said:


> This looks like the flashlight everyone is talking about. How much for new bulbs?
> 
> 
> QUOTE:
> ...


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## dulridge (Apr 22, 2006)

It's not the bulbs, it is likely to cook the resistor fast enough that bulb life isn't an issue. The resistor smells horrible when it burns


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## Blackheart (Apr 22, 2006)

dulridge said:


> It's not the bulbs, it is likely to cook the resistor fast enough that bulb life isn't an issue. The resistor smells horrible when it burns


 
Are resistors and replacement Luxeons availble then?


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## Monolith (Apr 22, 2006)

Blackheart said:


> This looks like the flashlight everyone is talking about. How much for new bulbs?
> 
> 
> QUOTE:
> ...



It has a Luxeon LED clone in it - no bulbs. And the life of a Luxeon should be 50,000 to 100,000 hours.

The reflector is different than the Golston I have.


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## Blackheart (Apr 22, 2006)

Monolith said:


> It has a Luxeon LED clone in it - no bulbs. And the life of a Luxeon should be 50,000 to 100,000 hours.
> 
> The reflector is different than the Golston I have.


 

Well, I figure the 500-1000 hours is how long an overdriven 3W or 5W Luxeon LED clone is gonna get when its over-driven to 7 watts. It seems to me that there has been quite a bit of discussion to that effect in this thread.


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## FirstDsent (Apr 22, 2006)

Blackheart said:


> Well, I figure the 500-1000 hours is how long an overdriven 3W or 5W Luxeon LED clone is gonna get when its over-driven to 7 watts. It seems to me that there has been quite a bit of discussion to that effect in this thread.


None of my flashlights is even close to 500 hours. If I get 500 hours out of my golston, it will be an antique, and probably worth more than I paid for it. I'll leave it to my heirs.

Bernie


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## Blackheart (Apr 22, 2006)

So then, which Golston 7w flashlight have you folks been getting then.

The 3.0 volt or the 3.6 volt model?


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## Amonra (Apr 23, 2006)

Just a thought here but is it possible that the LED inside this flashlight is a K2 clone ( not an exact clone but one with similar specs ) rather than a LuxIII clone. if this is the case, then 7W would not be overdriving it by much


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## lexina (Apr 23, 2006)

Amonra said:


> Just a thought here but is it possible that the LED inside this flashlight is a K2 clone ( not an exact clone but one with similar specs ) rather than a LuxIII clone. if this is the case, then 7W would not be overdriving it by much



That was one of the speculation when the Golston first came out but no one has been able to confirm anything though. Another possibility I guess, could be that these are the early production runs of the K2 that perhaps did not meet the full QC specs to be labelled as such.


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## Blackheart (Apr 23, 2006)

So where are the lumens per watt on LED's today. A few years back it was around 30 lumens per watt with projections into the future of 200 lumens per watt. It would be pretty awesome to have a 3 watt flashlight put out 600 lumens.


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## Blackheart (Apr 23, 2006)

OK, here is another question about the Golston. I freak out flashlight salesmen when I take the flashlight and tap the end opposite the light on the counter when its on and the flashlight goes off. The inertia of the batterys causes a temporary disconnection of the batteries when I do this. The flashlights that I do this with are usually the ones without the tailcap on/off button on them. I have suggested this as a test parameter to folks that test flashlights on their websites. I had a dorcy flashlight that I set on its tailcap to point upward so I could work underneath something one time. It was a cement floor and it would cause the flashlight to turn off. It was very annoying.

What would happen if I replaced the Golston with a twist on/off tailcap and dropped it on the tail cap from a few inches above a hard surface. Would the light stay on?


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## larryk (Apr 23, 2006)

Blackheart said:


> OK, here is another question about the Golston. I freak out flashlight salesmen when I take the flashlight and tap the end opposite the light on the counter when its on and the flashlight goes off. The inertia of the batterys causes a temporary disconnection of the batteries when I do this. The flashlights that I do this with are usually the ones without the tailcap on/off button on them. I have suggested this as a test parameter to folks that test flashlights on their websites. I had a dorcy flashlight that I set on its tailcap to point upward so I could work underneath something one time. It was a cement floor and it would cause the flashlight to turn off. It was very annoying.
> 
> What would happen if I replaced the Golston with a twist on/off tailcap and dropped it on the tail cap from a few inches above a hard surface. Would the light stay on?



Yes, it will stay on, it has a pretty stiff tailcap. 
I received my Golston 3.6 this week and I am very impressed. Nice tint and great throw. With R123's it's slighty brighter than my Surefire L6, even with primary 123's it is very bright.


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## FirstDsent (Apr 23, 2006)

The K2 has a bigger die. Also, in every respect, the "Golston" emitter is nearly identical in every way to a Luxeon III even if the star board isn't.

Bernie


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## Blackheart (Apr 23, 2006)

It would be nice to have a test setup with a power supply that supplies the same voltage as the batteries and leave these LED flashlights hooked up to the powersupply for 750 hours of continuous running.

The other part of the test would be a data collector that captures the lumen output over that time period. Im interested if these LED's in these flashlights that we are being sold have a degradation in lumens over time as the LED's wear out ( Especially the ones with the brightest lumens output ).


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## Flasherz (May 9, 2006)

Which flashlight is better? This one, or the Incandecent Streamlight TL-3?


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## Fusion_m8 (May 11, 2006)

What do you mean by "better" ? 

Brighter? TL-3 incand would have about double the output and more throw than the Golston, but then again you are comparing a 3 cell 9V incand to a 2 cell 6V LED... hardly fair...

However, the Golston would be more practical for everyday civilian use, it will provide about double the running time compared to the TL-3 between battery changes, thus proving more economical to run. You may already know that cells too depleted to run an incand, will still be able to run an LED with useful output.

If you have enough $$$ buy both, LED for general duties, and the TL-3 when you need raw power and extended search capabilities...

The Golston, in my opinion, is very good value for money, but be careful where you buy it from. I wanted the original and not the 3.6V or Cooler design versions. 

I got my off fairequal on ebay, he's honest and tries his best to reply any questions...






Flasherz said:


> Which flashlight is better? This one, or the Incandecent Streamlight TL-3?


----------



## M I K (May 11, 2006)

Thank you all so much. 

After reading this lengthy and entertaining thread, I have come to the conclusion that I owe all of you thread contributors a hardy "Thank you".

You see, all of the rhetoric in this thread has caused me to be more in love with my SureFire U2 than I could have ever imagined. Yes, it cost a lot more, but I know which one I would rather HAVE. 

Thanks again, and long live CPF.

M I K


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## FirstDsent (May 11, 2006)

M I K said:


> Thank you all so much.
> 
> After reading this lengthy and entertaining thread, I have come to the conclusion that I owe all of you thread contributors a hardy "Thank you".
> 
> ...


Then you must not have read the lengthy and entertaining thread on all the unhappy U2 owners who are trying to obtain remedies from SureFire on thier defective lights -LOL!

Bernie


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## Fusion_m8 (May 12, 2006)

HAHAHAHAHA......:lolsign:

I've got the Surefire L6, but I still think the Golston is very good value and performance for the money...

As for the U2, I won't pay good money for it... and probably sell it off if I was ever given one!





FirstDsent said:


> Then you must not have read the lengthy and entertaining thread on all the unhappy U2 owners who are trying to obtain remedies from SureFire on thier defective lights -LOL!
> 
> Bernie


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## M I K (May 12, 2006)

FirstDsent said:


> Then you must not have read the lengthy and entertaining thread on all the unhappy U2 owners who are trying to obtain remedies from SureFire on thier defective lights -LOL!
> 
> Bernie



Yes Bernie, I have read the threads about the U2. I wasn't referring to everyone elses U2. I was referring to mine. If everyone elses U2 was a good as mine, those threads wouldn't exsist. I feel for them. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones.


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## FirstDsent (May 12, 2006)

I really do need to back off from my outspoken criticism of the U2 and its owners. I will direct my criticism at SureFire until they get their act together. This light has the potential to be a very worthwile light. No other light can match it for functionality (in theory). It sadly fails in execution.

Bernie


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## cd-card-biz (May 14, 2006)

I have about talked myself into ordering one of these "big" lights. But, I am so inexperienced with battery technologies - I need to ask for some help here before making (another) spending mistake.

I would prefer to run on rechargeables for this unit and would really appreciate a recommendation as to an appropriate quality charger and cells. And, I am less-than-clear on "protected" vs. "un-protected" and the potential dangers. 

I was looking at this thread and it seems like a popular item. Is this what I want for the 7W Golston?
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/89775&page=1&pp=30&highlight=123+charger

I recently had my first "gotcha" thinking I could run an SMJLED on NiMh and get the same light output. That's when I learned about 1.2V AA vs. 1.5V AA.
Anyway, that was a cheap mistake. I don't want to make an expensive one if I can help it. Many thanks!


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## TinderBox (UK) (May 14, 2006)

hello cd-card-biz

if you want to use rechargable rc123 then you have to order the rechargable version, if you order the normal version you will blow it.

I have the rechargable version from the link below.

I cannot get AW`s protected rc123 to fit, only unprotected ones.

It is a first class light, for the price.

just don`t try to clean the reflector as the silver rubs off.

anyway spare reflector are avaliable form Dae for only $3 and they are part stippled.

http://www.qualitychinagoods.com/golstonreg-2xlir123a-waterproof-rechargeable-recommended-p-409.html

enjoy.


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## Monolith (May 14, 2006)

cd-card-biz said:


> I have about talked myself into ordering one of these "big" lights. But, I am so inexperienced with battery technologies - I need to ask for some help here before making (another) spending mistake.
> 
> I would prefer to run on rechargeables for this unit and would really appreciate a recommendation as to an appropriate quality charger and cells. And, I am less-than-clear on "protected" vs. "un-protected" and the potential dangers.
> 
> ...


I would just order the complete rechargeable kit from Dae and skip piecing it together. Too many variables in the right model of Golston and the right rechargeables (even those designated as "rechargeables" can vary as to which type of rechargeables work). Better to just order the whole thing from Dae and be done with it. I think the complete kit is about $50.


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## vortechs (May 14, 2006)

TinderBox (UK) said:


> anyway spare reflector are avaliable form Dae for only $3 and they are part stippled.
> 
> http://www.qualitychinagoods.com/golstonreg-2xlir123a-waterproof-rechargeable-recommended-p-409.html
> 
> enjoy.


 
Hi TinderBox, 

How well does the part-stippled reflector for the Golston work? 

I'd like to configure one of my "3.6V x 2" lights for more spill so the stippled reflector might be good for this. 

How does one go about ordering one of the part-stippled reflectors from Dae? I don't see the reflector listed separately on his website?


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## cd-card-biz (May 14, 2006)

Thanks very much gentlemen! I have no problem with your wise advice to just have Dae "set me up". 

Gotta' tell you, this whole LED light thing was just an addiction waiting to happen! 

Thanks for helping out the new guy!:goodjob:


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## Monolith (May 14, 2006)

cd-card-biz said:


> Thanks very much gentlemen! I have no problem with your wise advice to just have Dae "set me up".
> 
> Gotta' tell you, this whole LED light thing was just an addiction waiting to happen!
> 
> Thanks for helping out the new guy!:goodjob:


Here's the link to the kit, its $46:

Golston Kit from Dae


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## FirstDsent (May 14, 2006)

vortechs said:


> Hi TinderBox,
> 
> How well does the part-stippled reflector for the Golston work?
> 
> ...



I just received 40 of theses lights from Dae to outfit a crew. They all have the new partially stippled reflectors. The new reflector has a tighter hotspot for even MORE thow! The stippling is in a band totaling the bottom 1/3 of the reflector. I can compare the smooth and part-stippled reflectors side by side. The stippled reflector has a tighter hotspot with fewer artifacts, less corona, and a smoother transition to spill. I do think it has a little more spill, but only close to the hotspot. The edges of the beam are about the same. I really like this reflector. I'ts the best plastic reflector I've ever seen! This light really throws like crazy now!

Just email or PM Dae. He will gladly instruct you. Find his posts on the Dealers Forum, or use the link on his website.

I'm gonna try beamshots for the firtst time, so wish me luck! Look for a post soon!

Edit: Um, none of the walls in my house are white. I'll have to go somewhere else. Stay tuned.

Bernie


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## Krit (May 15, 2006)

I have my Standard Incandescent bulb Golston. It's pretty size in my hand. I had mod to Luxeon III U bin and use down boy 917 mA. It's very bright and not hot for long operated. 

You can see picture in this thread, sorry for not in english but it can explain by seeing picture.

http://www.trekkingthai.com/board/s...king&forum=7&No=59142&picfolder=trekking&#top


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## LITEmania (May 15, 2006)

I had a chance to see this torch here, the built body was thick enough to absorb the heat


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## kfede1 (May 16, 2006)

I have been researching this product and have a few samples. The thing is that is not really made by Golston as far as I can tell. The Golston Company in China said that this is a knock off that someone put their name on. Still it seems to be of good quality. The Luxeon in this does not match up with the images I got of a true 5 watt luxen, but does look very similar. I have been told it is a 3 watt luxeon overdriven and that the 7 watts includes power lost in the resistor. I am anxious to here if others concur with this information.


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## Randy Shackleford (May 16, 2006)

kfede1 said:


> I have been researching this product and have a few samples. The thing is that is not really made by Golston as far as I can tell. The Golston Company in China said that this is a knock off that someone put their name on. Still it seems to be of good quality. The Luxeon in this does not match up with the images I got of a true 5 watt luxen, but does look very similar. I have been told it is a 3 watt luxeon overdriven and that the 7 watts includes power lost in the resistor. I am anxious to here if others concur with this information.


 
read through the 9 pages of the thread, yet?


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## kfede1 (May 16, 2006)

About 5 of th 14+ pages. If you saw something on if these are not really Golston, please let me know how to find it besides reading all the posts. It seems like there are differeing opinions on what it really is.. 3 watt? % watt?., etc. in the posts.


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## FirstDsent (May 16, 2006)

kfede1 said:


> I have been researching this product and have a few samples. The thing is that is not really made by Golston as far as I can tell. The Golston Company in China said that this is a knock off that someone put their name on. Still it seems to be of good quality. The Luxeon in this does not match up with the images I got of a true 5 watt luxen, but does look very similar. I have been told it is a 3 watt luxeon overdriven and that the 7 watts includes power lost in the resistor. I am anxious to here if others concur with this information.


Welcome to CPF kfede1! 
You are the first person I am aware of who has tried to verify whether Golston actually makes this light. Since it is not on their own website, I didn't think it was theirs. Do you live in China? You have found like we have that this is a pretty well made light. The LED is thought to be a copy of a Luxeon III. It is a very good copy!

Bernie


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## kfede1 (May 17, 2006)

Golston does make some of the other lights at that same wesite, and the samples of those lkights are of the highest quality, but Xeon bulbs instead of LED. Golston now has 3 LED Lumiled or Luxeon based flashlights of their own, but they look quite different from those on the szwholesale site. I haqve not seen the true Golston Luxeon lights except in a picture from the Golston company.


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## vortechs (May 18, 2006)

One thing to keep in mind is that there are several different lights that we sometimes generically refer to as the "Golston" (7W Super Bright Waterproof). If you read this whole thread you'll get an appreciation for the different versions (the original one marked "Golston", one similar version that didn't have the Golston name on it, the 'cooler shape', the "3.6V x 2"). I think only one of them actually had the "Golston" name printed on it. I think all of them have the words '7W Super Bright Waterproof' on them in some form or another, so that might be a better designation for the light than calling it a "Golston". However, the name Golston 7W seems to have stuck. 

If anyone has any better suggestions of how to refer to this group of lights, perhaps well come up with a better name for them as a group. I'd suggest "7W SuperBright" as a generic name for the group (SuperBright as one word so it is easier to search on).


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## vortechs (May 18, 2006)

Here is a link to an interesting mod to a "7W Golston" that turned it into an actual 6.5W light using an OSRAM LED (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=118426).


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## Northern Lights (May 18, 2006)

It seems the variation in Golstons runs true to the resistors also, this maybe indicative that the manufacturer, that mythical gnome whoever he is, is getting stars with different forward voltage ratings. That statement if true would depend on the tolerance quality of the resistors. I have seen different tints, brightness and radiation patterns too not to mention the numerous different physical characterics. I have been seeing a number of the 3.6 x2 models with 3.7 ohm resistors but have measured them from 3.5 to 3.9 ohms and this could be due to the tolerance of the resistors. I have not torn the lights apart to see the color bands; measurements were taken with several meters on each as a check of accuracy. Here is a curious observation: In the last pages of the Lux. III data sheet reference is made to running the Vf at 3.99 for 1 amp. The nominal Vf is expected to be 3.5 volts for 350 and 700 mA. For the lights I measured with the 3.9 resistors the next section would hold true if those numbers were used in the equations and you used 4.0 volts, which is the voltage I often read on the batteries hot off the charger.



Now if we do the theoretical math from the Luxeon III specs and the 3.6 Volt x2 Golston we get:

2*3.6 volts= 7.2 volts of battery power

7.2 v – 3.5 volts (Vf)=3.7 volts difference

V=IR ~ I=V/R

Plug it in: 3.7/3.7=1000 mA, which makes it look like they are not trying to overdrive it beyond what is in part of the published specs.

Then, of course: Watts=VI or 7.2, that is 7 watts based on the total power supply, not really the true power on the LED but this is marketing, true?

Could this be the arbitrary equation and numbers that were plugged in to spec the Golston we are now getting?

I know it is very bright; I would love to see it tested for lumen output by a credible source. Boy that would end this endless string now wouldn’t it.


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## Randy Shackleford (May 18, 2006)

I took a reading:

Two fresh RCR123's read ~1100mAh w/ a resistor that tests ~3.4 ohms.


----------



## mobile1 (May 19, 2006)

I just replaced the LED in my 7W Golston with a LuxV WY0S LED... it seems to throw more light now then before....


----------



## vortechs (May 19, 2006)

mobile1 said:


> I just replaced the LED in my 7W Golston with a LuxV WY0S LED... it seems to throw more light now then before....



How well does the stock reflector work with a Lux-V? Is the hotspot larger with the Lux-V? Is there a donut hole? 

I have heard that Luxeon V LED's output more total light (lumens) than Luxeon III's but the Lux-V's often have wide hotspots rather than tightly focused ones, so they don't tend to 'throw' as well as Lux-III's.


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## Monolith (May 19, 2006)

mobile1 said:


> I just replaced the LED in my 7W Golston with a LuxV WY0S LED... it seems to throw more light now then before....


Direct drive?


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## dulridge (May 19, 2006)

Having cooked the resistor with rechargeables, how do you get the LED module apart to replace it?

I reckon about 4 ohms should be OK - I bought assorted wirewound high power resistors but they are way too big to fit so paralleled a bundle of quarter watt resistors to get 3.6 ohms in something that will fit - now how do I dig out the PCB with the positive contact to get to it?

My attempts so far have been unsuccessful and I don't want to destroy the board so any suggestions will be welcome.


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## Monolith (May 19, 2006)

dulridge said:


> Having cooked the resistor with rechargeables, how do you get the LED module apart to replace it?



It's not the resistor that's cooked.



dulridge said:


> I reckon about 4 ohms should be OK - I bought assorted wirewound high power resistors but they are way too big to fit so paralleled a bundle of quarter watt resistors to get 3.6 ohms in something that will fit - now how do I dig out the PCB with the positive contact to get to it?
> 
> My attempts so far have been unsuccessful and I don't want to destroy the board so any suggestions will be welcome.


Use needle nose pliers to gently straighten the edge of aluminum all the way around. Take your time. Easy does it and when you think you've straightened it all (or it crumbled away), gently take an object like a screwdriver and push (gently) the board from the LED side with the hole. Just be gentle and you'll get it apart. If you rush it, you'll lose the edge that holds the board from going into the heat sink.


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## dulridge (May 19, 2006)

Monolith said:


> It's not the resistor that's cooked.



I did check that the LED still worked - which it does



Monolith said:



> Use needle nose pliers to gently straighten the edge of aluminum all the way around. Take your time. Easy does it and when you think you've straightened it all (or it crumbled away), gently take an object like a screwdriver and push (gently) the board from the LED side with the hole. Just be gentle and you'll get it apart. If you rush it, you'll lose the edge that holds the board from going into the heat sink.



That's exactly what I needed to know - thanks a lot

Donald


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## Monolith (May 19, 2006)

dulridge said:


> I did check that the LED still worked - which it does. That's exactly what I needed to know - thanks a lot. Donald


I'll have to double check my LED then. Forgot to mention that you need to desolder the star first since the resistor is soldered between the star and the battery contact. (just in cas that wasn't obvious).

By the way, most of the edge will crumble, but since the battery pushes on the board into the heat sink it really doesn't matter a whole lot. What really matters is that you don't damage the edge of the board by prying on it etc. Without the edge of the board, the whole board will be pushed up into the heat sink and then you'll have to find some standoffs etc.


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## dulridge (May 19, 2006)

Some copper waterpipe should sort the standoff issue

But given that I've been treating toothache with whisky (I see the dentist on Monday night - not looking forward to the weekend) I'll hold off till the morning. I was trying to dig it out with a knife which is why I asked as it wasn't working.

I'm not convinced that my solution involving quarter watt resistors will work (for more than a few seconds) but the ceramic that the wirewound ones I bought is clearly harder than the cutoff discs for my Dremel as it wore them down without even marking the resistors - it seems to me that since about 11.5 watts (1.6A (measured) at 8.4V (assumed - 2x RCR123 freshly charged)) is going through the resistor I'd need at least a 9W resistor but these are way too big to fit. 

I'm hoping the voltage drop of the batteries under load is significant (I can measure either voltage or current, not both simultaneously as only one multimeter)

If the quarter watt assembly (6x22 ohms in prallel - measured 3.6 ohms)doesn't work (I measured 1.6 amps going into the resistor that died - so I squared R=1.6 x 1.6 x 1.9 (measured) = 5W or thereby) I'll try more quarter watt resistors in parallel till I find a setup that will handle 1.5-2 amps and still fit in the rather small space. If I smoke those, I'll buy some resistance wire and make up something that can handle an amp or so at 9V though heatsinking it may be an issue.


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## dulridge (May 20, 2006)

Monolith said:


> By the way, most of the edge will crumble, but since the battery pushes on the board into the heat sink it really doesn't matter a whole lot. What really matters is that you don't damage the edge of the board by prying on it etc. Without the edge of the board, the whole board will be pushed up into the heat sink and then you'll have to find some standoffs etc.



It isn't that pretty, but I got it apart eventually - here are pictures of the guts from my nasty camera - need extensive treatment in photoshop to make it clear.







This is the burned resistor which appears to be a half or 1 watt device - no wonder it cooked with about 5 watts going through it.

This is the rest of the head parts






I'll need to scrape all the goop off of the PCB and solder in my new resistor on a small piece of wire then throw it all together.

And file round the edges of the aluminium light module so it'll go back in the torch.

Here's hoping...


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## Northern Lights (May 20, 2006)

I just got my lottery, Lux III Vf~ 3.5-3.99, Yo bin tint and I put them into two old style Gostons that fried LEDs, 1 Ohm resistors and Powerizer 3.0 Protected batts. 

I used 3.9 ohm 2 watt resistors (they measured at that too). It seams to work ok. The tint is warmer and even if it is a tad dimmer on 3.6 volts batts than the official 3.6 Golston the warm color heightens contrasts so the effect is that the useable range and field is the same.


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## dulridge (May 20, 2006)

Success...

It is a pig threading the wire through the small hole in the aluminium heatsink to get to the star - the edges were sharp and it kept scraping off the insulation. Drilled it out a little.

I replaced the existing resistor (which was too badly burned to be sure but appears to have been a half watt 1.1 ohm unit with 1% tolerance. Interesting tolerance when it measured at 1.9) with 3 0.6 watt 11 ohm resistors in parallel. It now consumes a much saner 1080mA and isn't as crazy bright but may last a bit longer now.

The hot glue used to stick the original resistor down is utterly foul stuff - the stink is still lingering 6 hours later and I'm a heavy smoker who used to be a chemist so my sense of smell is not what you might call acute.


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## Radio (May 21, 2006)

First post updated with links to new or old stock.


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## igabo (May 21, 2006)

I'm trying to take my 3.6v x 2 version apart with monolith's instructions, and the PCB isn't comming out very easy.. Any advice?


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## Monolith (May 21, 2006)

igabo said:


> I'm trying to take my 3.6v x 2 version apart with monolith's instructions, and the PCB isn't comming out very easy.. Any advice?


Did I mention that you have to be in a Zen-like state? 

Patience is a virtue...otherwise the board will crack (it's not very tough).

Or try taking a very small flat tip screw driver and gently pushing around the edge of the board from the inside (assuming you have removed most of the edge of the aluminum heatsink.

*Caution* - these instructions are for the version pictured in my photos in this thread. The earlier versions do not have the black plastic cap covering the star and are taken apart differently.


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## igabo (May 21, 2006)

So, do I pry it out from the inside of the battery compartment, or outside of it? I have the version with the black plastic cover over it.


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## FirstDsent (May 21, 2006)

Igabo,
If you are trying to get the aluminum "can" out of the battery tube, that is threadlocked weakly. I used channel-locks just to get enough grip to break the sealant. It didn't take much force at all. If you have the can out and are trying to get the PCB out of the bottom of it, the emitter star has to be desoldered and removed, and the swaged areas of the bottom of the can have to be loosened. Mine appeared to have only 3 swaged marks where the aluminum was smushed over the PCB to hold it in. I used a stout pair of needle-nosed pliers to gently bend the smushed areas toward the outside. I then used a wooden skewer to gently push it out from the center hole on the emitter side. Mine came out without much coersion. 
Note: I did not have to "crumble" the edge of my can to release the PCB. It was only held by a few swaged spots. 

Plenty of room for a nice driver. I am thinking of boring mine and using a Li-Ion 18650, a Flupic microcontroller, and a UWOJ Lux III. 

Bernie


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## Monolith (May 21, 2006)

Here's a repeat photo of my "before"







on my mine, I had to "uncrimp" the entire edge around the board before attempting to push it out through the hole on the opposite side. Is this what you are doing?


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## igabo (May 21, 2006)

Sorry for my lack of technical knowledge.. basically, this is what I need to remove:


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## FirstDsent (May 22, 2006)

That bare aluminum "can" will unscrew if you use enough force. Mine was weakly threadlocked. Use any wide-jawed pliers to carefully grip the protruding end of the can and loosen. It should come off without too much force. Once the threadlocker is broken, it should unscrew ok. There is nothing further holding the light engine in place. Once it is out, the other end with the PCB will be accessable. You won't be able to remove the PCB until the can is out. 

Monolith's post above is exactly what you will see. Notice on his photo, that there are flattened spots on the lip of the can at about 12:00, and 7:30. They are faint, and there are more that are not visible. These are the "crimps" that hold the PCB in. Mine had four. Try uncrimping just these spots first. Uncrimp the whole edge only if you still can't get the PCB out with gentle pressure. I only had to straighten out my 4 crimps, and the PCB pushed out easily by pushing a wooden skewer through the hole in the top of the can. Angle the tool toward the edges of the PCB instead of pushing in the middle. Based on other posts, you should scrape as much adhesive as you can off the rsistor. If you de-solder the resistor with the glue on it, it will stink up the house. 

Benrie


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## igabo (May 22, 2006)

Thanks, FirstDsent! Was really confused, and that helped.

So, how would i go about "re-crimping" it?


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## FirstDsent (May 22, 2006)

Three or four SMALL dots of super glue dude. Not all the way around, but like a "chemical crimp". When batteries are installed, there will be pressure against it holding it in the can. Super glue just makes the assembly solid, and will resist rotation. Keep adhesive away from the threads.

Bernie


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## dulridge (May 22, 2006)

I "potted" mine with hot glue - much, much easier to get it out again should it be required.


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## igabo (May 22, 2006)

Ahh... good old locktite. Any suggestions for converter boards to run some type of luxIII?


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## vortechs (May 27, 2006)

vortechs said:


> I happened to notice an eBay auction for some LED's that look like they may be the same as the LED in the Golston. They are listed as "High brightness 1 pcs 3W White LED 80 lm" by seller sureelectronics in China (here) (if the link doesn't work just search under that seller's name). Starting bid is $3.99 + $3 shipping, the 'buy it now' version is listed at $4.99 + $3 shipping (there is another listing with 10 for $45 + $15 shipping). If you look at the picture, you can see the word "LUMILEDS" stamped on it, so it would appear that they've cloned the markings as well (as seen in the Golstons that have been opened). I am just posting this here to see if anyone else has further information and to identify a possible source for replacement "stock" LED's for the Golston.



Hi all, 

I'm just posting another set of links to the eBay seller (sureelectronics) that I noticed has some 3W LED's that may be what the 'Golston' uses. If anyone ever decides to order any of these I'd be curious to know how they perform: 

High brightness 1 pcs 3W White Luxeon LED 80lm (http://cgi.ebay.com/High-brightness-1-pcs-3W-White-Luxeon-LED-80-lm_W0QQitemZ7621953087QQcategoryZ66954QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem ). 

High brightness 1 pcs 3W 80 lm White Lumen LED (http://cgi.ebay.com/High-brightness-1-pcs-3W-80-lm-White-Lumen-LED_W0QQitemZ7621952128QQcategoryZ4660QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem ) 

'buy it now' version (http://cgi.ebay.com/High-brightness-1-pcs-3W-White-Lumen-LED-80-lm_W0QQitemZ7603334347QQcategoryZ66954QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem )


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## FirstDsent (May 27, 2006)

igabo said:


> Ahh... good old locktite. Any suggestions for converter boards to run some type of luxIII?


I'm modding them with a Flupic microcontroller running on one 18650 Li-Ion. I have to have the battery tubes bored, but that will be cheap. Programmable multi-level current regulation! Goldserve's .770" dia. board can easily be filed down to .745 for a perfect fit in place of the stock PCB. I'm also considering increasing the heat sink by using Chimo's two penny trick. Solder two copper pennies (before 1982) together. File the edges to the final diameter (.715"), and sand one face flat. Use Arctic Alumina epoxy on the sanded face and edges to bond it to the underside of the stock heat sink. Remove excess with Q-tips and laquer thinner if necessary. You'll have to drill the positive wire hole through the pennies at a slight angle toward the center. 

Bernie


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## vortechs (May 27, 2006)

FirstDsent said:


> I'm modding them with a Flupic microcontroller running on one 18650 Li-Ion. I have to have the battery tubes bored, but that will be cheap. Programmable multi-level current regulation.
> 
> Bernie



Hi Bernie, 

Sounds nice. 

Please let me know how you go about getting the battery tube bored out. I'm not certain where to start asking about that locally.


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## NeedMoreLight (May 28, 2006)

Is there any place that one can be sure of getting the older brighter version?
Or is it hit and miss?


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## dulridge (May 28, 2006)

Just get a new one and swap out the resistor - 1.8-2 ohms should be fine for primary cells, 3.6-4 ohms for rechargeables. 

Mine ran a 1.9 ohm though labelled for rechargeables - it burned out the resistor after a couple of weeks. If you can find a resistor with appropriate power handling (at 1.9 ohms with rechargeables mine was drawing 1.6 amps or about 11W assuming not much voltage sag) which might be tricky in the space available. 9W resistors are bulky objects.

Ceramic coated wirewound resistors are far too big to fit and turned out to be harder than the cutting wheels for my Dremel. I wore out a couple trying to make one fit.

I'm currently using 3 0.6W 11 ohm resistors in parallel which seems to be working and keeps the current down to 1010mA. I have only one meter so cannot measure voltage and current similtaneously. It is quite hard to measure the voltage across the LED when it's on as it is rather bright and it's kind of hard to see the contacts. I still have quite a few purple spots in front of my eyes a couple of minutes later.

The voltage sag seems to be quite considerable - I measured the voltage under load at 3.65V but would want to test that again while wearing welders goggles to see that I was contacting what i thought I was. At 3.65V and 1010mA we get a power figure of 3.68W roughly through a 3.67 ohm resistor with 2 RCR123.

The LED seems to be able to tolerate being driven far harder than that - assuming the voltage drop was comparable with a 1.9 ohm resistor I was seeing about 5.6W out of it and it was a lot whiter though I do wonder about the longevity of the LED under that regime. I am tempted to experiment with lower resistances but expect to have to replace the LED sooner rather than later if I do. Adding a fourth 11 ohm 0.6W (these are what I can acutally buy locally) resistor in parallel will be the first step.

I will then replace the aluminium resistor holder with a solid copper one for better heatsinking if I can get a friend to machine one up. With a little ingenuity it should be possible to make the resistors easily replaceable for experimentation.


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## vortechs (Jun 1, 2006)

FirstDsent said:


> I just received 40 of these lights from Dae to outfit a crew. They all have the new partially stippled reflectors. The new reflector has a tighter hotspot for even MORE thow! The stippling is in a band totaling the bottom 1/3 of the reflector. I can compare the smooth and part-stippled reflectors side by side. The stippled reflector has a tighter hotspot with fewer artifacts, less corona, and a smoother transition to spill. I do think it has a little more spill, but only close to the hotspot. The edges of the beam are about the same. I really like this reflector. I'ts the best plastic reflector I've ever seen! This light really throws like crazy now!
> 
> Just email or PM Dae. He will gladly instruct you. Find his posts on the Dealers Forum, or use the link on his website.
> 
> Bernie



I just noticed that Dae has started a thread about how to get one of the lights with the part-stippled reflector: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1437637

Note that you have to order on Dae's thread above (or by sending him a PM or email) to get the version with the part-stippled reflector. The ones on his website (http://www.qualitychinagoods.com or http://www.szwholesale.com) have the normal smooth reflectors.


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## Dae (Jun 3, 2006)

NeedMoreLight said:


> Is there any place that one can be sure of getting the older brighter version?
> Or is it hit and miss?



PM sent.

Dae.


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## FirstDsent (Jun 6, 2006)

I have some of these part-stippled reflectors brand new and unused. If anybody is interested, PM me. 

Bernie


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## Randy Shackleford (Jun 7, 2006)

FirstDsent: Your PM quota is full.



I might be interested in a part-stippled reflector for the Golston. PM me with the details.


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## FirstDsent (Jun 7, 2006)

PM inbox is cleared. Sorry

Bernie


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## slarty bartfast (Jun 13, 2006)

Hi to everyone,
I came to this forum by accident a few weeks ago whilst looking for a led torch (flashlight) for work, with the intention of swapping out the white star for a green or red one (this forum is first class with its advice/reviews/mods and atmosphere). On the same day as ordering a Ultrafire WF601C 9W (supposedly 9 watt) from ebay, I read the glowing praise about the "Golston 7W", in particular with the partially stippled reflector, so I quickly ordered one of those as well (OMG...is this the start of the addiction people here talk about ?........). I received both of these lights in <10 days, including a public holiday and weekends (a real credit to Dae and the ebay seller (in China), excellent service !!).
I put some brand new duracell 3V 123A's in both lights and was instantly surprised at the amount of light that came from these 2 cheap (in price only) little beasts. As FirstDsent noted, the partially stippled reflector in the Golston 7W is awesome....the tightness of the hotspot, lack of artifacts, intensity, throw and decency of the spill blew me away...definitely not what I first expected when compared to tac, semi-tac (non led) lights i've used in the past. The construction is first rate and particulary sturdy, with no blemishes or shonky workmanship, I can't wait to try it with 3.6V rechargeables (am I developing a problem ?). From initial appearances, the stippled reflector is definitely a recommended upgrade.
The Ultrafire is a few mm thinner (head and body), shorter and just as well made, although with finer threading and less solid construction. It is definitely a lot whiter (cooler, without having a bluish or greeenish tint) and has a much brighter hotspot, although not as tight or as perfectly round (as noted in another thread) as from the Golston. The spill is about the same brightness and size (beam brightness differences are probably due to the resistor used and the Luxeon or Z-led lottery as the emitters appear to be exactly the same without pulling them apart, I've no idea what bin they are from). It is a very nice looking light and came with a nice (and surprisingly well made) little universal holster that clips securely onto my webbing. The tailcap clicky is not as sturdy as the Golston's one, but feels positive and works well. It would be a great light for home, car, walking/jogging and sometime light field work. So far, I'm very impressed with these little lights. Next time I go bush etc, I will test both of these under far more arduous conditions.
The worst thing is, that I'll be ordering another one of these lights (probably both types) to modify and keep as my fulltime tac one(s), I can't bear to destroy either of the ones I have now and keep trying to think of household tasks for them......I've already ordered a U bin star to try in one of them and am thinking of active regulation......I'm already thinking of getting a keyring light (er....just in case I need it).................when I'm in China again next year, I'll be scouring the electronics markets instead of doing the things I'm supposed to do (my wife will kill me)........titanium and damascus steel becoming very appealing...............HELP ME !!!!!

BTW .... Go the Socceroos !!!!!!


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## Norm (Jun 13, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*



Icebreak said:


> One member liked this light enough to cause smilees to appear. I don't know about all that.
> 
> 7Wattser Tred
> 
> ...



What looks like crap on the reflector is just a reflection of the LED itself. I received mine yesterday and fo the money it's a ripper. The reflector is perfect the light has a great spot and enough spill for walking or whatever.


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## vortechs (Jun 14, 2006)

*Re: 7W Golston® 2xCR123A Waterproof Super Bright - $26.74 shipped from AxShop*



Norm said:


> What looks like crap on the reflector is just a reflection of the LED itself. I received mine yesterday and fo the money it's a ripper. The reflector is perfect the light has a great spot and enough spill for walking or whatever.



The 'yellow stuff' seen in the reflector is just the reflection of the phosphor of the LED. However, I believe the point of the picture is that the reflection is lopsided, rather than a smooth round ring, and that there are some imperfections in the silvering of the reflector (the irregular bumps near the center). 

Ideally the reflector would appear to be almost entirely yellow, indicating that the LED was phosphor was at the focal point of the reflector. 

Note that this is not one of the part-stippled reflectors. It would be nice to see a frontal picture of one of those.


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## FirstDsent (Jun 17, 2006)

For those who expressed interest in upgrading to the sold out Part-Stippled Reflector, I got my hands on some, and just put 17 of the part-stippled reflectors up for sale in CPF's *Custom & Mod B/S/T* forum. See HERE

Thanks, 
Bernie


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## vortechs (Jun 17, 2006)

I finally got some RCR123 (16340 size) rechargeable Li-Ion cells from Dae (http://www.qualitychinagoods.com) so now I can finally try my "3.6V x 2" light with some 3.6V Li-Ion cells. The first thing I did was to once again check the value of the resistor, just to be sure. My Fluke 77 III multimeter showed 3.0 Ohms for my two lights. This improved my confidence that the light wouldn't burn out the LED, so I tried the 3.6V Li-Ion's in it: 

For comparison, I tried some CR123 primary cells and measured about 0.57 Amps. 

Two unprotected LIR123A cells from Dae (purple wrapper, marked LIR 123A 3.6V 800mh), partially charged at about 3.81V each stabilizized at about 1.3 Amps. 

Two fully charged unprotected LIR123A cells at 4.2V each stabilized at about 1.45 Amps. 

Two protected LIR123A cells from Dae (blue wrapper, marked LIR123A 3.6V 750mAh), partially charged at about 3.86V each stabilized at about 1.22 Amps. 

Note that Dae's new protected LIR123A cells fit my stock "3.6V x 2" light just fine, although one of AW's old style protected 17670 cells is a bit too wide to fit in the battery tube. This may be a solution for those people who have wanted to use protected Li-Ion cells with this light. You may have to ask to get the protected LIR123A's that will fit the rechargeable Golston. When I made my order, Dae asked me which version of protected 16340 cells I wanted and I told him the smaller 750mAh ones.


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## Grummond (Jun 17, 2006)

Hi.
I’m not sure if this has already been mentioned, if so I apologise, I have not had the time to read through all the threads regarding the Golston but I got mine today and noticed the tail cap on the Pelican M6 LED fits perfectly on the Golston..





Obviously I thought I’d mention it as some have said the tail switch on the Golston is a little stiff.
Also the M6 tail has a momentary function which many prefer.


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## logan (Jun 17, 2006)

The "silver" version:

http://cgi.ebay.com/7-watt-Luxeon-L...QQihZ005QQcategoryZ117110QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## FirstDsent (Jun 17, 2006)

Reflector shootout!

This is the Golston Part-Stippled reflector





Here are beamshots of the standard smooth Golston Reflector, and the rare Golston Part-Stippled reflector.

1M. beamshots:
The smooth reflector is on the left. The part-stippled reflector is on the right. I swapped the reflectors in these two lights and got the same results. The difference in color is due to the different tints of the emitters. I don't have two Golstons that are the same color, but none are objectionable. The new reflector kicks ***.

1. This longer 1:250 sec. exposure shows the overall reflectivity of the beams. Note the PS reflector appears to have a larger hotspot. This is due to its brighter hotspot and resulting greater reflectivity on the white wall. The faster exposures tell the real story. 






2. Below is at 1:500 sec. Note the ringy corona from the SMO reflector. It is much more noticable at farther distances.






3. Below is 1:800 sec. Note the intensity of the PS hotspot. The stippling does not "flood-out" the beam at all. It just smooths the transition from spot to corona. If there is a change in parabolic contour, I can't tell, but despite the stippling, it throws better! I don't have a lux meter, but the PS would read higher based on my observation, and the reflectivity on beamshot #1.





I'll add outdoor beamshots as soon as I can find a suitable range. Nothing in my yard is far enough away.

Bernie


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## Fusion_m8 (Jun 29, 2006)

I got the stippled reflector from FirstDsent... and what a big difference to the performance the stippled reflector has made!

Tighter and rounder central hotspot with adequate spill for night walking. Throws further than my Inova T3!

A must have with the 7W!

Thanks FirstDsent!


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## albino (Jun 29, 2006)

did the reflector makes a huge different?

if yes, were can i find it?

have you made pics with the original and the new deflector?


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## Randy Shackleford (Jun 29, 2006)

albino said:


> did the reflector makes a huge different?
> 
> if yes, were can i find it?
> 
> have you made pics with the original and the new deflector?


 
read back a few posts


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## Fusion_m8 (Jun 29, 2006)

I got mine off FirstDsent, his post with the beamshots is in this thread just before mine... 

The stippled reflector will smooth out the beam considerably, making it look better in white wall tests and also for practical use outdoors. Also makes the beam throw further than the standard reflector.


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## Walt175 (Jun 29, 2006)

I bought one as well, and yes, it does make a huge difference!!!


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## vortechs (Jun 30, 2006)

I got a couple of the part-stippled reflectors from Dae and installed one of them into one of my two "3.6V x 2" lights. I compared it side by side with the stock reflector on the other light. It was about what I would expect from a part-stippled reflector, the hotspot was a bit larger and artifact-free and the transition to the spill was smoother but the hotspot didn't appear as bright. Despite the hotspot seeming a bit less concentrated I liked the beam the part-stippled reflector puts out. Anyway, that's my initial impression of it. I did make sure both lights were at their optimal focal point (which is with the head screwed almost all the way down) but should experiment some more (switching batteries and/or reflectors) to make sure there aren't other factors involved. 

I suppose that the amount the part-stippled reflector 'changes' the throw depends on what the original stock reflector on your particular light is like. The stock reflectors on mine gave verytight hotspots already. 

-Brian.


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## vortechs (Jul 1, 2006)

Here is a link to Dae's thread where I found the protected 16340 cells that are thin enough to fit in my "3.6V x 2" 7w SuperBright Waterproof light: 
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=99322


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## Randy Shackleford (Jul 1, 2006)

vortechs said:


> Here is a link to Dae's thread where I found the protected 16340 cells that are thin enough to fit in my "3.6V x 2" 7w SuperBright Waterproof light:
> http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=99322


 
thats good news

.


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## chanamasala (Jul 6, 2006)

Threw one of these high-current U00 Bin K2 stars in it. These circuits I believe bring the amps up to what K2 likes. I think K2 can take that current longer than a 3W lux, so if that's the case it ought to last longer(lifetime-of-led-wise). Brightened it up a bit. I just had to try out a K2 torch. Probably not worth the cost and effort if you aren't feeling the K2 need.

http://www.ledsupply.com/k2star.html

It's my understanding that the K2 slugs are positive so I get a bit worried about that. These are electrically isolating stars but I'm starting to get a bit wigged out with the lithiums combined with my poor soldering skills. I used goggles, a door, two couch cushions, ear plugs, and a broom stick to turn it on.


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## Randy Shackleford (Jul 6, 2006)

chanamasala said:


> Threw one of these high-current U00 Bin K2 stars in it. These circuits I believe bring the amps up to what K2 likes. I think K2 can take that current longer than a 3W lux, so if that's the case it ought to last longer(lifetime-of-led-wise). Brightened it up a bit. I just had to try out a K2 torch. Probably not worth the cost and effort if you aren't feeling the K2 need.
> 
> http://www.ledsupply.com/k2star.html
> 
> It's my understanding that the K2 slugs are positive so I get a bit worried about that. These are electrically isolating stars but I'm starting to get a bit wigged out with the lithiums combined with my poor soldering skills. I used goggles, a door, two couch cushions, ear plugs, and a broom stick to turn it on.



how does the output differ from stock?

any beamshots?


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## Yapo (Jul 7, 2006)

Hi I recently received a 7W Golston rechargable version(the one with 3.6 x 2 on it) from Dae n its nice n bright but I was wondering if its just my one with the head that cant be screwd off. Only the top part of the head can be screwd off. The part holding the lense. so it makes it harder to mod. Anyone know? or am I just too weak to unscrew it lol or its been glued on or something...but it just wont budge at all..


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## Randy Shackleford (Jul 7, 2006)

Yapo said:


> Hi I recently received a 7W Golston rechargable version(the one with 3.6 x 2 on it) from Dae n its nice n bright but I was wondering if its just my one with the head that cant be screwd off. Only the top part of the head can be screwd off. The part holding the lense. so it makes it harder to mod. Anyone know? or am I just too weak to unscrew it lol or its been glued on or something...but it just wont budge at all..



probably glued.

try applying a hairdryer on high for 1 min and unscrewing it (with gloves on)


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## Randy Shackleford (Jul 14, 2006)

Just compared a SF U2 to an original Golston fitted with a LUX V -WY0S running on Downboy 1050mAh.

About the same output, the Golston has a slight advantage with larger hot spot.








*Golston on the left. 
U2 on max on the right.*






*Golston on the left.
U2 on max on the right.*






*Golston on the right.
U2 on max on the left.*

.


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## slarty bartfast (Jul 15, 2006)

Thats very interesting. Did the Golston with LUX V heat up any more than with the usual LUX III ? (I guess the efficiency of the Downboy would have helped) ... and ... was the reflector in the Golston the usual smooth one or the part stippled one ? Thanks for documenting your results and posting the beamshots Randy, I have been wondering how a WXOS LUX V would go in a Golston for a while.....just never had the time to try it. Now I will make time to do it.


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## Randy Shackleford (Jul 15, 2006)

Reflector was smooth one. I bet the part stippled one would be a better match in that there is a very slight donut.

The heat was not any more noticable than the LUX III.

BTW: I have done more testing with each light tonite and the Goldston/Downboy/LuvV definitely has more output than the U2 at max. And, the larger hot spot on Golston makes noticable difference at distances.


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## Randy Shackleford (Jul 15, 2006)

Here are some more beamshots. For reference, my U-bin RCR123



QIII is about as bright as the Surefire U2 on level 2 (one below max). 

The flashlights at ~1 meter from the wall in all shots,







*Golston/DB1050/WY0S on the left. *
*QIII UXOJ w/RCR123 middle. *
*U2 on max on the right.*







*Golston/DB1050/WY0S on the left. *
*QIII UXOJ w/RCR123 middle. *
*U2 on max on the right.*







*Golston/DB1050/WY0S on the left. *
*QIII UXOJ w/RCR123 on right.*







*Golston/DB1050/WY0S on the left. *
*QIII UXOJ w/RCR123 on right. *
*Exp -1*







*QIII UXOJ w/RCR123 on left. *
*U2 on max on the right. *
*Exp -1*

*.*


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## slarty bartfast (Jul 15, 2006)

great stuff :goodjob: ..... how would you rate the throw of the Golston with WYOS compared to the other 2 outside in the dark (and Golston with U bin LUX III) ? ..... do you think the LUX V / Downboy is a worthwhile upgrade for outdoor use in terms of throw ? (I guess spill would still definitely be good enough with a LUX V)


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## Randy Shackleford (Jul 15, 2006)

slarty bartfast said:


> great stuff :goodjob: ..... how would you rate the throw of the Golston with WYOS compared to the other 2 outside in the dark (and Golston with U bin LUX III) ? ..... do you think the LUX V / Downboy is a worthwhile upgrade for outdoor use in terms of throw ? (I guess spill would still definitely be good enough with a LUX V)



Downboy is excellent upgrade, period. You can change the LED from LUX III to LUX V to K2 and back agian w/o changing any more internal electronics. You can drop in different batteries without any more concern about changing the resistor(s).

In comparison to a good binned LUX III, throw is not usually the strongest suit of the LUX V. It's sheer ouput. I don't even like writing comparisons between a III vs. V, because they are two different designs. I had a LUX III UX0J in the Golston. Even though the hot spot was matching up with U2, the LUX III has much less sidespill than the U2 and the appearance was what expected... the tight spot of the LUX III was underwhelming next to the sheer output of the LUX V in the U2. I decided to swap it to the LUX for a more fair comparison.



*Throw*- in order:

*First* place winner-->*Golston/DB1050/WY0S*- slightly brighter & wider hot spot The reflector on the Golston is physically smaller than the U2. But, it is well designed and smooth/mirrored. So, it is more effective (almost twice the spot area as U2) lighted area at distances (around 100 ft)  
*
Second*-*SF U2*--> orange peal texture probably creates difficulty in winning this throw contest, but it it still quite a good thrower. The flood & spot is well blended in this light. A mirrored/smoothg reflector might just kick buttt in a U2

Distant *Third*--*QIII UXOJ w/RCR123*--> the stock reflector is not really designed for throw but it is a LUX III. It is has an orange peal texture and outputs very nice & floody to about 40~50 ft, then it drops out of this competition. At closes ranges, the QIII reflector mimicks the expected output appearance of a LUX V more than the expected appearance a LUX III (which is why I use it in these shots  ). In fact, at level 2 (one below max), the U2 and QIII have very similar appearnces.

.


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## slarty bartfast (Jul 16, 2006)

Thanks heaps for that Randy.....off to buy some Downboys


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## vvk (Jul 19, 2006)

Yapo said:


> Hi I recently received a 7W Golston rechargable version(the one with 3.6 x 2 on it) from Dae n its nice n bright but I was wondering if its just my one with the head that cant be screwd off. Only the top part of the head can be screwd off. The part holding the lense. so it makes it harder to mod. Anyone know? or am I just too weak to unscrew it lol or its been glued on or something...but it just wont budge at all..




I had the same problem. I solved it by using a piece of cloth for better friction.


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## FirstDsent (Jul 19, 2006)

Yapo said:


> Hi I recently received a 7W Golston rechargable version(the one with 3.6 x 2 on it) from Dae n its nice n bright but I was wondering if its just my one with the head that cant be screwd off. Only the top part of the head can be screwd off. The part holding the lense. so it makes it harder to mod. Anyone know? or am I just too weak to unscrew it lol or its been glued on or something...but it just wont budge at all..


The head will break loose with enough friction and torque. The head has threadlocker on it. Some of these lights have a black plastic cover over the LED star. It can be removed by carefully breaking the bond line with a razor blade, and gently prying up on it. The Light engine will have threadlocker on it too. Use a pair of pliers on the narrow flange if you have to. it won't be seen especially if you replace the plastic cap.

Here's how to remove all that threadlocker so the light will open smoothly. This goes for any light that has threadlocker: 
Get MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) solvent or lacquer thinner from a local paint store or builders store. Pour some of the solvent into a glass, metal, or polyethelene container just deep enough to cover the threads. Remove the lens, reflector, light engine, tailcap, and all o-rings. You should have just the bare battery tube and head. place them in the solvent for ten minutes. Use a stiff plastic brush (toothbrush size) and/or a 1" bottle brush to remove the threadlocker. If you use MEK, it will esentially be gone in 10 min. so just brush to remove the residue or big chunks. Lacquer thinner will take slightly longer. 

Both of these solvents evaporate totally, so just dry the parts with a paper towel and let them air-dry for a few minutes before reassembling the light. 

Bernie


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## cryhavok (Jul 19, 2006)

Could we see what your light engine looks like for the LuxV golston? Did it require some major modifications to get the converter board to fit? 

I know there are a few versions of the golston going around, but mine looks like the one in this post:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1281887&postcount=158

The light engine screws out and is basically just a star on top of the heatsink with a resistor in the hollow cavity of where the threaded part is. I don't see how one would fit the downboy without majorly modding the removable heatsink. Some pictures of your setup would be GREATLY appreciated!


edit: went and got my golston to measure the head and i have more than enough clearance to fit the db converter...so it's off to go buy a luxV and a DB and make my first luxV light!


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## Randy Shackleford (Jul 20, 2006)

The newer Golston 3.6Vx2 had this type of heatsink/can:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1327712&postcount=255


Plenty of room for the downboy.


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## Walt175 (Jul 20, 2006)

Can someone post a pic of their LE with the DB converter? I have the first style LE and am wondering where to mount it.


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## FirstDsent (Jul 20, 2006)

Walt175 said:


> Can someone post a pic of their LE with the DB converter? I have the first style LE and am wondering where to mount it.


The later style of light engine has a large PCB in the battery end. It is larger than the .550" Downboy converter (all Sandwich Shoppe converters are .550"). The Downboy can be sandwiched with the PCB, or it can be potted by itsself inside the LE. The problem with the original style LE, is it has a much smaller diameter, and only a small hole in the bottom. I haven't seen it done, but I guess a .550" converter can be sandwiched against the bottom of the light engine using a short piece of plastic pipe or tube to make up the length of the existing battery contact. You must maintain the correct battery contact length. The wires would go through the pipe and through the hole in the bottom of the LE. I would use standard epoxy, not thermal epoxy, and make sure that all bonding surfaces are roughed up, and perfetcly clean. The whole assembly is held in compression by the battery spring, so the force against it will be compressive. It should hold. 

Bernie

Bernie


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## cryhavok (Jul 20, 2006)

FirstDsent said:


> The later style of light engine has a large PCB in the battery end. It is larger than the .550" Downboy converter (all Sandwich Shoppe converters are .550"). The Downboy can be sandwiched with the PCB, or it can be potted by itsself inside the LE. The problem with the original style LE, is it has a much smaller diameter, and only a small hole in the bottom. I haven't seen it done, but I guess a .550" converter can be sandwiched against the bottom of the light engine using a short piece of plastic pipe or tube to make up the length of the existing battery contact. You must maintain the correct battery contact length. The wires would go through the pipe and through the hole in the bottom of the LE. I would use standard epoxy, not thermal epoxy, and make sure that all bonding surfaces are roughed up, and perfetcly clean. The whole assembly is held in compression by the battery spring, so the force against it will be compressive. It should hold.
> 
> Bernie
> 
> Bernie




This is exactly what i plan to do...I will use the existing plastic "spacer" that the current resistor resides in to space out the db. I did a very rough measurement and the diameter is ~.75", so the converter at .55" will fit. Parts are ordered...just have to wait for them to arrive.


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## Walt175 (Jul 20, 2006)

I have the earlier/harder type. I have to get my hands on a DB and see what I can do.


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## FirstDsent (Jul 20, 2006)

To clarify, I suggest removing the existing narrow spacer, and make a new one from larger stock. Sandwich the spacer between the light engine and the converter. Use a pipe that is close to the diameter of the board, but less than the .665" inside diamter of the battery tube threads. If it overlaps the board, fine. Done this way, the board will be well supported, and the modded light engine will use the converter's battery contact. 



> Originally Posted by *cryhavok*
> I did a very rough measurement and the diameter is ~.75", so the converter at .55" will fit.


 The inside diameter of the battery tube threads is .665". The outside diameter of the light engine threads is .700" (the threads mesh). In any case, the Downboy converter will be a nice fit with about .058 of space around the PCB.

Bernie


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## Fusion_m8 (Jul 21, 2006)

Can anyone confirm what the real current draw of the original stock 7W is? 

Searching this thread I found variations between 1.2-2.0 amps....

Need to know how long the run time is on a set of primaries.


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## vortechs (Jul 21, 2006)

Fusion_m8 said:


> Can anyone confirm what the real current draw of the original stock 7W is?
> 
> Searching this thread I found variations between 1.2-2.0 amps....
> 
> Need to know how long the run time is on a set of primaries.



I had my Fluke 77 III out so I took the tailcap off my "3.6V x 2" version and measured the current at about 0.62 Amps using two 3V primary lithium CR123 cells that aren't fresh. The current measurement started at 0.65 Amps and dropped to 0.62 in about 40 seconds.

The current measurement from a "Golston" or "7W SuperBright" will depend on the value of the resistor. Mine is about 3 Ohms. 

The number of different options for resistors and batteries (as well as a few bad measurements ) have led to a lot of different current measurements in this thread. Be sure to carefully read the version of the light that is being measured and the type of cells that are being used.


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## Randy Shackleford (Jul 22, 2006)

Fusion_m8 said:


> Can anyone confirm what the real current draw of the original stock 7W is?
> 
> Searching this thread I found variations between 1.2-2.0 amps....
> 
> Need to know how long the run time is on a set of primaries.




Good primaries w/ 1 ohm in the original Golston should draw ~1300~1400mah at the begining of the cycle.


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## AlexGT (Jul 22, 2006)

Can someone confirm if the Pelican Led reflector which is part stippled is the same as the golston reflector? Just saw one 3 cell pelican led and the reflector looks like the golston.

Thanks
AlexGT


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## logan (Jul 23, 2006)

Did someone tried to mod a "8w Super bright" or the "10w"  ?


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## Randy Shackleford (Jul 23, 2006)

logan said:


> Did someone tried to mod a "8w Super bright" or the "10w"  ?



They are pretty much all the same design with different resistor values.


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## logan (Jul 23, 2006)

Randy Shackleford said:


> They are pretty much all the same design with different resistor values.



I have the 8w and the 10w, I would to increase their autonomies, only 20/30 mn, i use unprotected rechargeables 3.0v cr123a.


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## shelly (Jul 24, 2006)

First, I would like to thank everyone here for sharing their knowledge and experiences. Although I am new to posting, I have been following the forum threads for several years--actually more than $500 spent already on lights thanks to you guys, not to mention the 4 battery chargers that are spread around my house. Actually between them and all of my other electronic audio/video equipment with their own standby lights, I probably don't need any flashlights at all as there's lots of glow in my house at night. 

But my Gholston (and the 3w Xstar arrived from Dae today) and I still don't know if it is all right to use the 3.7v rechargeables from Lighthound in the Gholston. Right now I am using the 3.0v rechargeables in them (still daylight so it will be several hours before I can see the beam at night.)

I have read through all the Gholston threads but still can't figure out if it is safe to use the 3.7's. My light is the 3.6v x 2 version (but I remember reading here that this might just refer to the inital voltage when the 3.0v comes off the charger.)

Can someone please clear this up for me?

Thanks.

Shelly


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## Monolith (Jul 24, 2006)

shelly said:


> I have read through all the Gholston threads but still can't figure out if it is safe to use the 3.7's.


You can use the 3.7's for about 30 seconds of diminishing light. Then the Golston can be used as a paper weight or you can mod it. I modded mine (meaning I have first hand knowledge of what 8.4 volts can do to the LED in the Golston - not good). The one I had was the later model (which is not a true Golston). So a lot will depend on the size of resistor you have in yours.


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## Randy Shackleford (Jul 24, 2006)

Monolith said:


> You can use the 3.7's for about 30 seconds of diminishing light. Then the Golston can be used as a paper weight or you can mod it. I modded mine (meaning I have first hand knowledge of what 8.4 volts can do to the LED in the Golston - not good). The one I had was the later model (which is not a true Golston). So a lot will depend on the size of resistor you have in yours.




that's probably because if you had an regular model, you had a ~1 ohm resistor in it... which is only meant for use with 2x primary Cr123's.

The 3.6Vx2 version _should_ have the ~3.8 ohm resistor in it. The ~3.8ohm resistor is the resistor to run 2x 3.6V RCR123's.


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## Monolith (Jul 24, 2006)

Double post due to "server busy."


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## Monolith (Jul 24, 2006)

Randy Shackleford said:


> that's probably because if you had an regular model, you had a ~1 ohm resistor in it... which is only meant for use with 2x primary Cr123's.
> 
> The 3.6Vx2 version _should_ have the ~3.8 ohm resistor in it. The ~3.8ohm resistor is the resistor to run 2x 3.6V RCR123's.


It measured out around 3.2ohms. I think 7.2volts would work (which is 3.0 volt rechargeables). That is what Dae sells with his 3.6x2 lights.


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## Randy Shackleford (Jul 24, 2006)

Monolith said:


> It measured out around 3.2ohms. I think 7.2volts would work (which is 3.0 volt rechargeables). That is what Dae sells with his 3.6x2 lights.



Yep. That is the 3.6V x 2 light. 

Fully charged (~4.2V) 3.6V RCR123 x2 might push the mAh up to around ~1400 at the start of the battery cycle.


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## Northern Lights (Jul 25, 2006)

shelly said:


> I have read through all the Gholston threads but still can't figure out if it is safe to use the 3.7's. My light is the 3.6v x 2 version (but I remember reading here that this might just refer to the inital voltage when the 3.0v comes off the charger.)
> 
> Can someone please clear this up for me?
> 
> ...


 
Dae's current Golstons which are labeled "3.6 volts x2" can be run on his unprotected LIR123 rechargeable batteries. Those batteries come off the charger at 4.22 volts. I have supplied a good number of this combination and those lights are used daily, or should I say nightly, by a number of local Law Enforcement Officers from several agencies and TSA screeners at an airport. I daily get compliments and no complaints regarding this combinations.
Recently I obtain some 7W lights from Dae that did not have the label but a quick check of the resistor confirmed they were the same light. Some of the original lights, and at one time Dae sold both versions simultaneously, have too low of a resistor to handle the 3.6 or 3.7 volt batteries.


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## artisticmobile (Jul 29, 2006)

OMG, I read the same "fake" thing on FifthUnit too!

*2) 7W Flashlight
* 


FifthUnit price $19.75​ This flashlight is which people refer to "Golston 7W flashlight". This is widely available everywhere from eBay to many other websites. However, there are many different "versions" of this flashlight floating in the market here in China. We are lucky to purchase from a reputable manufacturer who doesn't sell us knock-off products. According to JxD, the manufacturer of this light, this flashlight will take the 3.6V rechargeable CR123A batteries, so here we go: ​1) Throw number (LUX): *2820* at beam center (53.10  Comparison Chart equivalent)
2) Output number (LUX): *4540* (45.40 Comparison Chat equivalent)
3) Estimated Lumens (Lumens): *63.11*
4) Beam pattern:​ 




Nikon D50, Tamron 90mm Di Marco, 1/100, F8​ After the test comment:
This flashlight provides quite a bit of light. The white light produced by the LED is a high color temperature and produces good color rendition. The white light is a little toward the cool (blue) side, but the color is not noticeable during normal use. The beam pattern looks fair, except the spillbeam is "shifted upward slight, but not noticeable during normal use. It has two inner circles of central spot, while the spillbeam starts from the second circle and extend all the way to fifth circles (it keeps going but it's not showing in the picture).​


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## Randy Shackleford (Jul 29, 2006)

artisticmobile said:


> OMG, I read the same "fake" thing on FifthUnit too!
> 
> *2) 7W Flashlight
> *
> ...



Fifthunit: "Compare any data above to flashlightreviews.com if you like." humm... :thinking:


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## Northern Lights (Jul 29, 2006)

artisticmobile,

Hello to a new member who joined today. Are you connected to FifthUnit?


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## Randy Shackleford (Jul 30, 2006)

Randy Shackleford said:


> Fifthunit: "Compare any data above to flashlightreviews.com if you like." humm... :thinking:



EDIT: info here:
http://contents.fifthunit.com/html/reviews.5th/review.001_1.html


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## Northern Lights (Aug 12, 2006)

Which is Brightest?

I think this thread demonstrates that the 7w Golston from szwholesale & qualitychinagoods is very bright, its main attraction.

Now Dae has gone and given us a situation where we need some more comparisons again. Have you seen he has added 2xCR123 or LIR123 models in 3-watt, 6-watt, 8-watt, 9-watt and 10-watt lights and in some catagories more than more model! We all know the system used to rate these lights generally is based on total circuit power consumption but how bright in practice are some of these? I suspect the 3-watt is about a 65-lumen light, the 6-watt an 80-lumen, we know about the 7-watt but who has seen the latest offerings. One light is marked in a manner to suggest a K2 type emitter another a genuine Luxeon. Really?

Other 8 watts from Ebay vendors I have compared to Dae's Golston and found no difference in output. Each of these new offerings have different characteristics that are selling points other than brightness, but I am afraid that light intensity is my interests.



Mr. Xu, please comment on what you think is the relative brightness of these new offerings compared to our beloved Golston 7 Watt 3.6. Give us an introduction to these Golston variations please.



Anyone try these out yet?


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## Randy Shackleford (Aug 12, 2006)

Northern Lights said:



> Which is Brightest?
> 
> I think this thread demonstrates that the 7w Golston from szwholesale & qualitychinagoods is very bright, its main attraction.
> 
> ...




Unless they change the reflector (like the "cooler shape" model), they are all virtually the same stock LUX III / K2 lights with a 1 ohm resistor for primary 2x CR123 or a ~3.8 ohms for 2x RCR123s.

Unlees you mod with a LUX V / DB (which could be said for just about any light), there probably is not much difference.


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## Northern Lights (Aug 14, 2006)

I have spent the day sulking and looking over the different listing of the 8w, 9w and 10w lights. The reflector sizes are significantly different between manufacturers; I have been comparing the tube diameters in the photos to the heads. The reflector is a great part of the performance of the Golstons. So right from the go if all are driven as hard as the Golston that should mean the models with smaller reflectors are suspect to a lower output. The UltraFire 9w uses the Zled and the 2.5 watt in the 601A has a larger die than the luxIII clones and it works very well and could possibly be overdriven like the Golston. Interesting to find out whether that is the 2.5 or 5 watt version in the 9w. The 10 watt indicates it is a K2 in one model and K2 clone in the other. Randy, did you ever get a K2 in a Golston mod? I do not remember this thread that well. I have been the catalyst of getting a good number of Golstons into hands of people who work with lights at night and it has always been the issue of brightest light for my folks. So I fret on this, this is what got me into the disease of flashaholism. I have sent Dae some emails in regards to this, he must be unavailable at the moment as I have not heard from him recently on other matters either.


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## rmzalbar (Sep 21, 2006)

http://www.qualitychinagoods.com/super-bright-rechargeable-recommended-p-470.html

What's the low down on this one? It appears to be a single LED light in the usual 7w/10w casing.

I'm just wondering if this is the same old lux III + resistor combo? I can't figure out how to get 16w consumption at the battery with any resistor/luxIII combo. ..for one thing, that's 2C discharge on the li-ions already which is a bad idea not to mention the unfocusable 'spill light' you'd get from black-body radiation of the flashlight casing itself..


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## Northern Lights (Sep 21, 2006)

I have very good reason to believe that this is the 10W that really is a 7w that heard that the competition was bringing out a 15W so they renamed theirs the 16W. It only is a marketing strategy based on culture, called loosely exagerated wind. I explain here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1562071&postcount=17


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## phdar (Jan 10, 2007)

*Re: 7W Golston Waterproof Super Bright Multiple Versions?*

I ordered and just received a Golston 7W light yesterday (1/8/07).

I have used the light for less than 60 minutes, and it has already failed.

The light became very warm (not hot) to the touch if left on for at least five minutes, and just before it failed, the light color had a distinct greenish cast to it.

When the light failed, it simply went from on to off... There was no dimming.

I have contacted the vendor for an RMA number. However, I probably will NOT replace this light.


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## Northern Lights (Jan 10, 2007)

phdar said:


> I ordered and just received a Golston 7W light yesterday (1/8/07).I have used the light for less than 60 minutes, and it has already failed.The light became very warm (not hot) to the touch if left on for at least five minutes, and just before it failed, the light color had a distinct greenish cast to it.When the light failed, it simply went from on to off... There was no dimming.I have contacted the vendor for an RMA number. However, I probably will NOT replace this light.


 
First, where did you get it. I think if you look through the thread you will see that the vendor makes the difference as to what type of electronics are in it. As far as I know the only ones that can handle 3.6volt lithium batteries come from QualityChinaGoods.com. Another vendor who may have had this variety is undergoing a reorganization and is closed for now. QCG lights cost about $32.56. You used the term RMA. Still another vendor I know that uses that term, RMA, sells them for $60 and they can only be used on 3.0volt primaries and they state that. These lights use simple resistors to run the circut. If you had the light that could only use primaries and you put rechargeables in it then you should expect it to fail. The type of failure you describe is typical of overvoltage failure. On the other hand if you got a bad one, sorry to here that, considering the dozens I have put with people and others dozens I know that have been sold it is not unusual for one in a few hundred or thousands to that fail and you may unluckily got one. When I first started buying and selling Golston I got the 3.0 volt variety and they failed about one third the time. The oned from DAE, QCG, are very dependable and I have no customer complaints because of those lights. Good luck let us aknow some of the particulars and maybe we can come to some conclusion for you as to what happened because in general the 3.6 volt lights are some of the brightest 2xcr123 LED lights available and they out perform many name brands.


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## beefy6969 (Feb 10, 2007)

Im surprised that nobody has installed a CREE or Seoul emitter on their Golston yet.

Dealxtreme are selling these stars for about $7ea. How hard would it be to install them? Can someone give me some detailed instuctions? What tools, glue involved? Wonder what runtimes would I get? Thanks.


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## dulridge (Feb 10, 2007)

> an someone give me some detailed instuctions? What tools, glue involved?


Not a lot really. You need to unscrew the head, unscrew the pill with the LED on it, desolder the lead to the star, apply new star, solder on one wire and if the resistance is reasonable, that's all folks. If the resistor needs changing that is a little fiddlier - see the posts on pages 14 and 15 of this thread. 

For a Cree I'd guess you'd need more resistance as it is more efficient so needs a lower current to produce the same light - you need to put in enough resitance to hold the current to something sane, say 800mA to 1A. My Golston with 2xRCR123 draws 900mA through a 3.8 ohm resistor so I'd guess about 5 ohms will do the trick to drop a Cree to 8-900mA. 

Nine quarter watt 47 ohm resistors in parallel will give this sort of figure and will (only just - as in, making them fit is the hardest part of the whole thing) fit in the pill. 

This is just a guess in the absence of a Cree LED to try this out on. Will work out better figures when the one I've ordered arrives.

A Seoul LED is likely to be better suited to the reflector than a Cree - though I do have a Cree coming shortly so may stick it in the Golston or a single-cell light which would probably suit it better.


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## Northern Lights (Feb 10, 2007)

I am not the first to put a cree onto a golston, but I found the reflector would not capture the narrow, 140 degree beam. Walt175 was able to do it with the reflectors that were half stippled.


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## Walt175 (Feb 11, 2007)

Yup, I put a Cree in one, using the "half stippled" reflector. It worked well, having a beam similar to the P1D CE, but much brighter. Didn't need to shorten the refector, but did put a spacer between the light engine and body. It throws better then my D-Mini. I added a DB 750, so the Cree is definately not over driven.

I'm thinking of modding my other one with a Seoul, but haven't made up my mind yet. From the few lights I've put one into, I have not seen a big enough improvement to make it worthwhile. This could be a good one to try though as it should drive it sufficently hard enough to make a difference.


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## flashy bazook (Feb 13, 2007)

bump - once only!


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## beefy6969 (Feb 13, 2007)

Walt175 said:


> It throws better then my D-Mini. I added a DB 750, so the Cree is definately not over driven.
> 
> 
> > You added a what? What is DB 750? Is that a resistor?
> ...


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## Walt175 (Feb 13, 2007)

A DB 750 is a Down Boy 750ma regulator. I replaced the resistor with a voltage regulator from the Sandwhich Shoppe. You don't have to do that part, but I wanted the regulation. It now runs longer then stock, as well as cooler.


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## beefy6969 (Mar 11, 2007)

Seems like the infamous Golston have not been popular anymore.

Will an asphetic lens revive this once beloved flashlight?


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## Northern Lights (Mar 11, 2007)

beefy6969 said:


> Seems like the infamous Golston have not been popular anymore. Will an asphetic lens revive this once beloved flashlight?


Dae's 18W has a reflector maybe 1-2 mm larger and is powered up with a K2 or clone otherwise it is the same. Check out the beam shots on the wholesale, http://www.szwholesale.com/super-bright-2mode-2xlir-rechargeable-p-823.html. These are even brighter than the twin sister of this model fitted with a cree. The picts are accurate and the light is significantly brighter, better hot spot and spill than the old Golston. I have switch to these. They have a two stage switch, the resistor is easily jumped to get back to off/on which is what the LEOs that get them from me want.
I guess the 7w may be out done now.


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## OzzieDoc (Mar 17, 2007)

I have a recently purchased 7W 3.6x2 that looks identical to the later units described here. Using 3.6 rechargeables (as advertised) I was very impressed (initially anyway) with the throw, beam quality and color. It also "felt" well built. After about 45 minutes intermittent use without any problem I then used it continuously for about 15 minutes before it suddenly died. The unit was warm but not uncomfortably hot when it died. I tried to contact the seller but no reply. I then found this topic which is amazing for its detail and following these instructions disassemled my unit expecting to find a fried emitter. Nope that was OK so must be a burnt out resistor. No, THEY were BOTH OK. My unit has 2 what appears to be 3.0 ohm resistors joined in series. What seems to have happened is that the heat of the unit melted the hot glue gunk surrounding the resistors and a bad solder join let them separate. Haven't had the time to put it all back together yet but makes me wonder if this is a new series of "7W" light or that they just change the markings from the later 8, 10 or whatever the market wants now light.


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## Northern Lights (Mar 17, 2007)

OzzieDoc said:


> I have a recently purchased 7W 3.6x2 that looks identical to the later units described here. Using 3.6 rechargeables (as advertised) I was very impressed (initially anyway) with the throw, beam quality and color. It also "felt" well built. After about 45 minutes intermittent use without any problem I then used it continuously for about 15 minutes before it suddenly died. The unit was warm but not uncomfortably hot when it died. I tried to contact the seller but no reply. I then found this topic which is amazing for its detail and following these instructions disassemled my unit expecting to find a fried emitter. Nope that was OK so must be a burnt out resistor. No, THEY were BOTH OK. My unit has 2 what appears to be 3.0 ohm resistors joined in series. What seems to have happened is that the heat of the unit melted the hot glue gunk surrounding the resistors and a bad solder join let them separate. Haven't had the time to put it all back together yet but makes me wonder if this is a new series of "7W" light or that they just change the markings from the later 8, 10 or whatever the market wants now light.


 Curious, where you got it from. The various vendors seem to have various sources. I know from my comparisons, birds in hand, the 18w sold at qualitychinagoods and szwholesale is brighter than the 7w. It has a K2 or clone K2 as opposed to the lux III. Beam shots and lux readings on the szwholesale site. Good luck on the repair. That can happen in any product line but it sounds like you can handle it.


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## OzzieDoc (Mar 17, 2007)

It was purchased from qualitychinagoods. I have a 10W "K2" on the way from DX and it will be interesting to compare the two (if I get it up and running). I have dozens of these different lights now that I have been lurking here for a few years. Its all your fault.


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## OzzieDoc (Mar 19, 2007)

I've put it all back together using original components and it works just fine.
I made a few other observations of interest while I was doing this. Firstly the solder join from the second resistor to the insulated wire (going to the + connection on the star) also crumbled as I handled it so clearly this particular unit has a soldering QC issue. The resistors are coded 3 ohm, measure at 2.8 and total measured in series came out at 5.8 ohm when assembled in the heatsink. I also noticed when applying heatshrink to my joins that the hot glue they use softens much quicker and at a much lower temperature than the stuff I use. This explains how the resistors moved around and separated when the unit heated up. What I also noted was that the second resistor (the disconnected one) came to rest up against the heatsink with the big blob of melted solder actually molded to the inside diameter. That I don't understand because I didn't think solder melted at this low a temperature unless they are really using some other alloy other than electrical solder. The problem I see with this is that if in fact it was the live end of the resistor touching the heatsink then there is a short with 2 lithium primaries or 2 x 3.6Vrechargeables going through just a 2.8 ohm resistor. Does this make a big bang?


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## Northern Lights (Mar 19, 2007)

No big bang. Lithium batteries have a lot of voltage and power for their size. There are some gloom and doom people on CPF that remind me of chicken little. Some go on to critizise to point they impress me to believe they are the self appointed battery police. Maybe it is just the way they sling their words around. You should be aware of safety hazards and treat the batteries with respect. One member, I believe, Newbie, did some very good imperical observations and tests. See if you can find those posts, that will help you. Look through the battery forum for information regarding lithium battery safety. I think there is a "sticky" on it too.


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## lctorana (Aug 12, 2007)

Carbonium said:


> 2 pcs of fresh Sanyo CR123A lithiums.
> 3.58v @ 1.445 amps = 5.17 watts
> 
> 2 pcs of fresh Likki lite 1300mAh CR123A lithiums.
> ...


I would like to mod my Golston to run at full brightness with a single 17650.
I have been fiddling around with a spreadsheet, using the above figures as a guide, and it seems that I should change the resistor to 0.39 ohms.

Opinions?


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## lctorana (Aug 12, 2007)

Actually, did anyone ever get to the bottom of why the light doesn't work on 3.6v RCR123s?

Is there a protection circuit in the LED board or something?


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## Northern Lights (Aug 12, 2007)

lctorana said:


> Actually, did anyone ever get to the bottom of why the light doesn't work on 3.6v RCR123s?
> 
> Is there a protection circuit in the LED board or something?


 
I am not sure what you are refering to. You can use 3.6 V rcr123 as long as the Vforward is correct for your LED. 

Again there have been so many variations. It is difficult to know what your Vf was originally. If you know that a simple calculation and you can run on the the battery you want. A resistor is a couple of bucks and your foward voltage was probably 3.4-3.6. Assume it is 3.5, 3.6-3.5 is 0.1. A lux three you could run at 700ma. You need 0.14 ohms of resitance.
for $15-$20 you can buy something like the UltraFire 501B that runs on a single 18650 or a 17650 or two rcr123s, it is obviously regulated. And you get a cree P4 or better in it and it will floor the Lux III in the golston as far as light out put. So cheap not worth fiddling with except for the fun of doing it. DX and QCG both sell that light. I sell them to law enforcement personnel, in person not on the web. I had a few lights being compared last night from several of my aquaintances that got different lights from me throught the last two years. The Golston was there, brightest in its day and a good light but it is surpassed now. A K2 light sold as the 18w by QCG was the brightest followed by the 501B.
edit: You should go to one of the many on lined ledresitance calculators, better than a spread sheet or down load the led_pro for these calculation. You can real specific that way with you actual tested voltage.


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## lctorana (Aug 12, 2007)

I put 2x 3.6v RCR123A batteries in my Golston and 

In the words of George Santayana, "_Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it_".

In another thread, here, I learned the hard way that "_1. When buying a no-name brand LED torch, don't assume the supplied battery configuration is optimal, or even correct!
2. Before modding a torch to different batteries, dismantle the torch and see what makes it tick._"

Well, I didn't learn the lesson of history, and repeated it.

My Golston came from eBay. It had a perfect casing, tailcap, head, lens, reflector and contacts, but a no-name brand cheap star emitter fitted.

After the , I opened it up, gently cracked the module's threadlocker with pliers and unscrewed it, and undid the two screws holding the star on, to find...

...*direct drive*. A red wire from the star to the battery contact.

With 7.2v or even 6v, it was a failure waiting to happen.

So, what to do?

I could buy a new Q2 emitter, some 17670 batteries and maybe a driver, but...

...for *not much more *than that money, I found a Q2 Cree torch for sale that takes a 18650. I just ordered one of those instead, rather than throw good money after bad.

Maybe I'll fix the Golston one day, but just at the minute, the economics don't stack up. It's still a good host for a future project.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I think a pattern is emerging here.
If you buy a quality torch like a Fenix or a Surefire, you don't fiddle with it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

However, if you buy a torch from eBay, you MUST dismantle it to see what makes it tick, if you don't want to overdrive the blazes out of it and fry or melt something.

My question: Does this apply to the stuff we order from online discount shops, too? Their stuff is the "middle ground" - not Fenix quality, but way better than what's on eBay. Should we, as a rule, dismantle their stuff before use, just in case something isn't as it seems?


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## lctorana (Aug 12, 2007)

Thanks NorthernLights, our posts crossed in the mail.

I agree with all you said, even down to the cutting my losses and buying a better torch. I now have at least two superior torches to the Golston already, and have decided to move on.


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## Northern Lights (Aug 13, 2007)

I take everything apart. I even took apart AW C lithium cells to see how they were built and put one back together after some experiments. It is a compulsive disorder according to some people not inclined to do the same.
:thinking:


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## pbs357 (Sep 14, 2007)

Hi gang, I have a Q5 Cree mounted on a star and was thinking about putting it in one of my Golston lights. Since its mounted on a star, can I just desolder the current star and solder on the new one? Thanks, this would be my first mod as I'm sure you can all tell!
:thinking:


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## Northern Lights (Sep 14, 2007)

The Vforward for the Q5 at 1amp is 3.75 volts. Typically the Golstons used luxeons or clones at 3.5volts. So yes, if that is the case you can drop in but you will not get the maximum out put. Use a meter and find the resistor in the slug and use a 3.45 ohm resistor. It should have a 3.7 ohm resistor in it if the Vf was 3.5 volts. You may only be able to get a 2 watt resistor to fit in the space. But if you can get a 3.45ohm 3 or 5 watt into it do so. This is based on a Vbat of 7.2 volts. 
Because some Golstons were mean to run on Vbat=6.0 some had resistors as low as 2.7 ohms that I encountered. That would blow your q5 if you used rechargeables, 3.6 volt cells.


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## lctorana (Nov 20, 2007)

pbs357 said:


> Hi gang, I have a Q5 Cree mounted on a star and was thinking about putting it in one of my Golston lights. Since its mounted on a star, can I just desolder the current star and solder on the new one? Thanks, this would be my first mod as I'm sure you can all tell!
> :thinking:


Just done this. Today.

A Q5 star and a 17670 protected battery arrived in the mail, so I soldered the new Cree star to a 1ohm, 1W resistor (yes, there's room in the cavity!) with leads suitably insulated, popped in a charged 17670 battery and voila! A cheap Cree!

Very happy with the result.


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## pbs357 (Feb 5, 2008)

Dropped in a SSC U binned star last night. Nice beam but only marginally brighter. Tried 2xrcr123's and woohoo! Well, until 30 seconds continuous on followed by permanent off!  How are you guys opening that metal pill with the electronics in it? Is there a board or driver I can replace to get this thing running again?


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## dulridge (Feb 5, 2008)

pbs357 said:


> Dropped in a SSC U binned star last night. Nice beam but only marginally brighter. Tried 2xrcr123's and woohoo! Well, until 30 seconds continuous on followed by permanent off!  How are you guys opening that metal pill with the electronics in it? Is there a board or driver I can replace to get this thing running again?



There will just be a resistor in there - it or the LED may have burned out. Probably the LED as they don't like 8 volts up 'em. Oh no they don't.

You'll need a fairish sized resistor to drop the current - see posts 410 on in this thread and especially https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1418835&postcount=414

Basically read P.14 of this thread to see how I and others have done it.

It isn't hard. You'll need to make up a resistor - I used 6 quarter watt ones in parallel and this has been rock solid reliable. Say you want to drive an SSC at 1 amp, say the voltage under load of 2 RCR cells drops to about 6 volts so from volts = current x resistance :- 6V = 1A x 6 Ohms.

Six quarter watt resistors is about the maximum you'll fit in the pill so you need resistors to make that up. The formula for paralleled resistors is 1/R = 1/R1+1/R2 and so on... So for 6 resistors of 47 ohms we get 6/47 = 1/R or 47/6 ohms = a bit more than we want as that's just shy of 8 ohms. If you can fit a seventh one in (I couldn't) you'll get close enough to 6 ohms.

These values are assumptions, not measured - try 2xRCR123 cells on the resistor and LED and measure the current to be on the safe side - but first check that the LED still works...

HTH

Donald


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## FirstDsent (Feb 5, 2008)

The "pill" in later models can be opened by using any kind of small punch or even a pair of stout needle nosed pliers to bend back the three or so swages around the perimeter of the aluminum housing. These swages, or bent areas of the rim are what holds the battery contact board to the aluminum pill. There may be some kind of adhesive gluing the board there, but you can break the bond by pushing a narrow object like a small screwdriver through the hole in the top (under the star). Try to apply pressure gently to the outside edges, not the middle. 

Most drivers available to flashaholics are smaller than this board. I have used them inside the pill by wiring them, and sandwiching them to the battery contact board inside the pill. 

Bernie


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## pbs357 (Feb 5, 2008)

Thanks guys! We'll make something of this "old glory" flashlight yet! I'll try to get a 900mAh or 1A driver to replace the innards of the old Golston. Any recommendations would be very welcomed, and thanks again!


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## lctorana (May 21, 2008)

lctorana said:


> Just done this. Today.
> 
> A Q5 star and a 17670 protected battery arrived in the mail, so I soldered the new Cree star to a 1ohm, 1W resistor (yes, there's room in the cavity!) with leads suitably insulated, popped in a charged 17670 battery and voila! A cheap Cree!
> 
> Very happy with the result.


 
As Gene Pitney once sang: "_Only 24 hours from Golston..._"

Just upgraded my dear old Golston once again.

With the above Cree mod :thumbsup:, the addition of a $4  DCX lens (stock code L5320) from Surplus Shed, turned the Golston into an aspheric!:twothumbs

W00t!


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## flashnight (Jun 5, 2009)

Where can I buy a new "screw in" type led unit for a 7 watt Super Bright "Romison,Golston, etc." light? I bought my flashlight on ebay 2 years back and blew the led using rechargables several months ago, would like to get it into service again. I need a whole new screw in alluminum unit not just an emmitter as I ruined the original trying to make a modification, fix it. Perhaps something better than the original could be had that could handle rechargable rcr123's. Any help would be much appreciated as the vendor has been no help- claims the led is not replaceable.


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## NigelBond (Jun 5, 2009)

You aren't going to find what you're looking for unless somebody sells you one out of their own light. This is a pretty old and outdated light and was never really that nice to begin with. It's time to move on and get something else.


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## FirstDsent (Jun 5, 2009)

NigelBond said:


> You aren't going to find what you're looking for unless somebody sells you one out of their own light. This is a pretty old and outdated light and was never really that nice to begin with. It's time to move on and get something else.


True dat! 

For the same price or less than I spent for my first "Golston", there are some outstanding lights out there. The novelty of this light is that it was one of the first really bright, cheap Luxeon II lights that was really easy to mod. With no driver, but just a huge resistor instead it is primitive by today's standards even for cheap lighs. Thermal management is marginal also. I modded each of mine with a solid silver heat sink made from a silver dollar mint proof. The heat sink is more valuable than the light now. 

That said, I may have a module laying around, but I'm out of town right now. I'll be back next week and I'll look. If I have one, I'll just send it to you. PM me but be patient.

Bernie


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## FlashCrazy (Jun 5, 2009)

NigelBond said:


> This is a pretty old and outdated light and was never really that nice to begin with.


 
Blasphemy! :lolsign: 
Wow, when I saw this thread resurrected, I went back in time for a bit... to a land where there weren't any Cree rings, when lights would smell like they're burning after a few minutes use, and 100 lumens seemed like _too_ much.

Ok, ok.. so maybe the Golston wasn't "all that", but we _thought_ it was!


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