# Batteries for Olight X7 Marauder



## Bucur (Oct 25, 2016)

My 10 Amp Orbtronic 3500mAh batteries (Model ORB3500P) do activate Turbo S mode when fully charged. I mean FULLY. That is, when they measure 4.19+V. Once they drop to about 4.14V w/o load, they sometimes fail in activating Turbo S mode. They never can drive the Turbo S mode once they are a bit below 4.10V w/o load. The X7 calls for batteries with a discharge current of at least 8A. What I reckon is that the voltage sag of my batteries under load at Turbo S mode is too much. 

If so, I think 30+Amp IMR batteries would be more practical, despite their lower capacity. After all, having to top the batteries off every so often and keeping them at such a high state of charge for the sake of occasional bursts of 9K lumens is not that fun. Am I correct in assuming that voltage sag is the culprit and that IMR batteries could cure this up to a more reasonable point?


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## ChrisGarrett (Oct 25, 2016)

Bucur said:


> My 10 Amp Orbtronic 3500mAh batteries (Model ORB3500P) do activate Turbo S mode when fully charged. I mean FULLY. That is, when they measure 4.19+V. Once they drop to about 4.14V w/o load, they sometimes fail in activating Turbo S mode. They never can drive the Turbo S mode once they are a bit below 4.10V w/o load. The X7 calls for batteries with a discharge current of at least 8A. What I reckon is that the voltage sag of my batteries under load at Turbo S mode is too much.
> 
> If so, I think 30+Amp IMR batteries would be more practical, despite their lower capacity. After all, having to top the batteries off every so often and keeping them at such a high state of charge for the sake of occasional bursts of 9K lumens is not that fun. Am I correct in assuming that voltage sag is the culprit and that IMR batteries could cure this up to a more reasonable point?



What's the current draw of the X7 on turbo? I would think that fresh 10A cells would work, perhaps the 30Q from Samsung? 3000mAh/15A.

Are your Orbtronic cells in good condition? Just because you can charge them up to 4.20v, or 4.18v, doesn't mean that they can handle high current draws, or have any voltage left, to move things along.

My modified SupFire M6 pulls almost 8 amps on turbo, so I went with the blue Samsung 25Rs, but that was two full years ago and things have gotten better.

Anyhow, it sounds like a good time to drop some coin on some Sony VTC6s.

Chris


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## MAD777 (Oct 25, 2016)

For the ultimate charge and ultimate expense, use Sony us18650vtc6 (green). 

For a tiny smidgen less charge but a whole lot less expense, use Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh (pink).


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## aginthelaw (Oct 25, 2016)

my orbotronics, white/green label eagletac 3400's, efest 35a's, Samsung 30a's, vtc5's, and green label olights didn't work. the lg mj1's worked perfect. I have the black label olight's on the way


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## Lexel (Oct 25, 2016)

Samsung 30Q are heap and do the job very well

the voltage drop is what let you not enter turbo
low drain cells like many 3400mAh are even worse than this graph


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## Bucur (Oct 26, 2016)

Thank you all for your replies. Unfortunately, the X7 calls for button top batteries. Flat tops won’t work. After reading a lot of HKJ reviews, the button tops I am considering are:

· Keeppower IMR18650 2500mAh (Black)
· Efest IMR 18650 2500mAh Button Top

Olight’s dedicated “X7 batteries” are not on my list because I don’t expect them to outperform my existing ORB3500Ps. If they do, this would only be a marginal gain. After my experience with the ORB3500Ps, I have the impression that unless a select few IMR batteries are involved, my X7 Marauder will remain like a supercar that can sprint from 0 to 100 km/h in less than 3 seconds only when its huge tank is fully full. Once the fuel gauge drops by a single dot, it converts to a sub 5 seconds car. I am after a supercar with a smaller tank that can act like a supercar most of the time. In other words, my aim is to be able to get occasional bursts of 9K lumens with half full, maybe even with 1/3 full batteries, albeit with lower total capacity. 

Chris- I don’t know the exact current draw of the X7 at Turbo S mode but in view of Olight’s battery recommendation, I conclude that this is less than 8A. The ORB3500P batteries in question are brand new. At first charge out of the box, they were about to be overwhelmed. After a few cycles, they are now OK but only when FULLY charged.


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## harro (Oct 27, 2016)

My X7 runs on the specified Olight high drain cell. They have no worries starting Turbo S under 4 volts. Sorry, I cant post a photo, but the wrap has the following nomenclature on it....
3.6V 3500mAh 12.6Wh PCB High Discharge Current 10A and ORB-186S35
Maybe that ORB could mean something ?....


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## niktak11 (Oct 27, 2016)

Bucur said:


> Thank you all for your replies. Unfortunately, the X7 calls for button top batteries. Flat tops won’t work. After reading a lot of HKJ reviews, the button tops I am considering are:
> 
> · Keeppower IMR18650 2500mAh (Black)
> · Efest IMR 18650 2500mAh Button Top
> ...


Get button top Samsung 30Qs


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## Bucur (Oct 28, 2016)

harro said:


> My X7 runs on the specified Olight high drain cell. They have no worries starting Turbo S under 4 volts. Sorry, I cant post a photo, but the wrap has the following nomenclature on it....
> 3.6V 3500mAh 12.6Wh PCB High Discharge Current 10A and ORB-186S35
> Maybe that ORB could mean something ?....



Thank you for the info on the Olight battery option. They seem to be slightly better but 4V is still too high a threshold. IMHO, this is not unexpected. Such a threshold, even with HDC (high discharge current) protected ICR cells, seems to be a design parameter of the X7. My aim, however, is being able to use the 9K lumens output at much lower states of battery charge.



niktak11 said:


> Get button top Samsung 30Qs



I didn’t know that someone modified them as button tops. This is a very good choice, indeed. Available through Amazon as well! Thank you.


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## Lexel (Oct 28, 2016)

Wow to add 30 cent of Button top and clear cover they triple the price of the cell

at Banggood the button top are even cheaper than the flat top

22.01€ for 4 button top
http://www.banggood.com/4PCS-Samsun...Top-18650-Battery-p-1067185.html?rmmds=search

23.31€ for 4 flat top
http://www.banggood.com/4PCS-INR186...ttery-for-Samsung-p-1004736.html?rmmds=search


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## Bucur (Oct 28, 2016)

Yep. They triple the price. Fortunately, the original battery itself is inexpensive. Otherwise, they would have tripled an already expensive price! :huh:

Thank you for the links but Amazon is such a great convenience for my particular conditions that I have to swallow the price tag. I already placed my order. 

In the past, I converted flat top batteries to button top by means of a drop of soldier.  However, I now refrain from this with high end batteries to be used in such a power hungry flashlight.


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## ChrisGarrett (Oct 28, 2016)

Bucur said:


> In the past, I converted flat top batteries to button top by means of a drop of soldier.  However, I now refrain from this with high end batteries to be used in such a power hungry flashlight.



That's probably a prudent course of action with the current draw, on turbo, of the light.

Good luck.

Chris


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## Bucur (Oct 28, 2016)

ChrisGarrett said:


> That's probably a prudent course of action with the current draw, on turbo, of the light.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Chris



Thanks but unfortunately, I have not been very lucky, so far. The message I just got from the seller at Amazon Marketplace reads: "Hi, I just found that this listing is for button top battery. Ours is flat top. I apologize for this confuse, do you want to cancel the order or flat top will also work for you? Looking forward for your reply. Regards". 

I cancelled my order and placed it with another seller. It will now take months for me to get them because they will be delivered (to Boston) later than the departure date of my relative from the USA. I will eventually receive them but I would have liked to report the outcome in this thread within reasonable time. 

Flat tops are locally available but as you point out, prudence should overrule pragmatism at this level of current draw, especially with unprotected batteries in series.


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## harro (Oct 29, 2016)

Actually undertook a small test, to see how far down the cells could be drawn, before they wouldn't start turbo. This applies to the genuine Olight HDC 3500mAh. Interestingly enough, my Acebeam HDC 3400 mAh performed similarly. Turbo S was lost at about 3.6 Volts and Turbo soon after, at about 3.5 Volts. At 3.4 Volts, high was all the Olight HDC's would support. Nothing more. Bear in mind, this is in no way scientific testing. Just taking them down in steps, then after a rest, checking them with a DMM. Then about 2700mAh, give or take, from the Opus, for each cell, to bring them back to 4.19-4.20 Volts.


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## Bucur (Oct 29, 2016)

harro said:


> Actually undertook a small test, to see how far down the cells could be drawn, before they wouldn't start turbo. This applies to the genuine Olight HDC 3500mAh. Interestingly enough, my Acebeam HDC 3400 mAh performed similarly. Turbo S was lost at about 3.6 Volts and Turbo soon after, at about 3.5 Volts. At 3.4 Volts, high was all the Olight HDC's would support. Nothing more. Bear in mind, this is in no way scientific testing. Just taking them down in steps, then after a rest, checking them with a DMM. Then about 2700mAh, give or take, from the Opus, for each cell, to bring them back to 4.19-4.20 Volts.



My tests are similar to yours. However, I wonder if we mean the same thing by “start”. Technically, Turbo S “starts” all the time in my case but when the batteries are below a threshold, it immediately steps down to a level which is much brighter than 1800 lumens (the regular thermal step down figure from Turbo S, Turbo and High). It shines at a level which resembles Turbo. I would guess that this is a bit below 5500 lumens, though. This is what I mean by “my batteries cannot drive Turbo S”. Otherwise, my X7 is lit at Turbo S mode and it is very bright. Dark room with white walls makes the distinction between restricted and unrestricted Turbo S easier to see. 

Also, the threshold voltage is not consistent. The last time, my X7 stepped down from Turbo S to the above mentioned restricted level at first try. I turned it off and then, let it shine at Medium mode (1000 lumens) for a while. When I tried again, unrestricted Turbo S was available. I checked the voltage after a rest period. This was 4.034 ± 0.002V per cell. That is, the consumption during the Medium mode period did not impair but improved performance. I mean, in some cases my batteries at 4.034V can drive the Turbo S, in some other cases the same batteries at 4.14V cannot.

Also, in my case, Turbo S and Turbo are not “lost” within about 0.1V from each other. Turbo is available long after Turbo S is restricted (but not lost). Again, I wonder if what you mean by “lost” and what I mean by “restricted” are the same thing. In any case, I conclude that voltage sag under load cannot be examined by means of rest voltage checks.


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## harro (Oct 29, 2016)

Agreed, it was just a simple test to see where turbo and turbo s would not operate from. Im sure that if the light remained on, that it would run longer on the higher settings. Mind you, for ICR chem and pcb, its probably not a bad effort though. Good luck finding the cells you require, and i would be interested to hear what they are, when you do find them.
Cheers from Aus.


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## Bucur (Oct 29, 2016)

Thanks Harro. I will definitely report back when I have the Samsung 30Qs but this can be as late as March 2017, if the new seller does not deliver them earlier than promised or I do not make a special arrangement for receiving them earlier. Until then, nothing is wrong with my X7 and with my cells, though. 

I agree with you on ICR cells with PCB. When my batteries are full, they can drive the X7 at Turbo S mode even longer than the 2.5 minutes that Olight claims. Not bad at all. Olight does not claim anything regarding how far depleted batteries can drive this mode. Besides, they warn customers that the light will not even enter Turbo S mode unless the batteries are capable of 8A discharge rate. In this case, the light may need to be reset for enabling the Turbo S mode with batteries of proper discharge rate. 

From this perspective, unprotected batteries can be considered like a modification that assumes some risks. Naturally, Olight does not take this risk but end users can, if they wish. I will eventually report on how the X7 behaves with 30Qs.


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## harro (Oct 29, 2016)

:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## StandardBattery (Oct 29, 2016)

harro said:


> My X7 runs on the specified Olight high drain cell. They have no worries starting Turbo S under 4 volts. Sorry, I cant post a photo, but the wrap has the following nomenclature on it....
> 3.6V 3500mAh 12.6Wh PCB High Discharge Current 10A and ORB-186S35
> Maybe that ORB could mean something ?....


*O*light *R*echargeable *B*attery


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## watchmania (Oct 31, 2016)

Lexel said:


>



I have both set of MJ1 and 30Q, both are pretty new and at their 5-6th cycle. I can hardly tell the Turbo-S duration difference on them. Both are slightly better at maintaining Turbo-S than my 2 years old LG HE4, though. However, MJ1 is the longest to reach the low battery warning.

Bear in mind that X7 runs them at 2S2P. So it's *7̶A̶ * out of 2S2P, which is theoretically "just" half of that per cell. I believe MJ1 and 18650GA should both work best on the X7. I think starting at 3.8V per cell, no more Turbo-S for you 

I also tried them in 2S1P configuration, which is great to reduce weight. It gave you 30 and only 30 seconds of Turbo-S I think


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## StandardBattery (Oct 31, 2016)

Hmm. Most are saying 9A draw for Turbo-S, but of course this would vary with cell Voltage, is 7A what you measured? 

You are right though that with their 2S2P configuration that is only 4.5A per stack. That is well within the MJ1 and GA cell capability, even protected versions. Seems like early reviewers and Olight are over stating battery requirements, unless you want to run the light on just 2 batteries. In fact it's sub optimal for the 30Q which operates better (more capacity) at 10A than 5A discharge. Of course maybe the voltage drop on the general cells does not allow the light to reach full Turbo and the driver limits the max current it will draw on each level so it can't make up for the drop. Still seems like if the design allowed for between 7-9A draw per stack then it could maintain turbo a lot longer. This would be within spec for the high-drain batteries. 

Seems to be some conflicting/missing info on the power/battery requirements. If it is using only a max of say 5A per stack, then look for a clone that ups that to 10A per stack. Battery contacts might be a bit triky on that for a clone light.


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## watchmania (Oct 31, 2016)

StandardBattery said:


> Hmm. Most are saying 9A draw for Turbo-S, but of course this would vary with cell Voltage, is 7A what you measured?



No, I thought I read somewhere in the forum about that current number before decided to get one 

I can test it, with someone else to taking a pic. Should be easier testing it with 2S1P. Well, but honestly I'm too lazy for that now 

I didn't see the 4x MJ1 had any problem at all driving the Turbo-S. Also, compared to the MJ1, the 4x 30Q didn't really seem to have any advantage for me.

But really, none of my flashlights seems to pull the batteries hard. Like, lazy chips.. EC4SW, for example. Lazy, just lazy!


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## StandardBattery (Oct 31, 2016)

watchmania said:


> No, I thought I read somewhere in the forum about that current number before decided to get one
> 
> I can test it, with someone else to taking a pic. Should be easier testing it with 2S1P. Well, but honestly I'm too lazy for that now
> 
> ...


No need for a test, I caved and bought one when GG had the sale, but they were out of stock so I have to wait. I don't need this light but it will make a great room lighter for power outages or for doing some types of repairs in the dark. I didn't have 4 30Q so I ordered them, but I probably could have made do with some others, although I would have had to modify GA or VTC6 cells for button top to get 4 matched ones, so I'm happy to have ordered 30Q in button top. Although if I had researched a bit more maybe I would have gone GA protected since they have button tops and look to be more than sufficient with a good protection circuit. I'm happy I didn't bust out the VTC6 saving those for some light that really needs them. Since it uses a 2S config I would have been happier to use protected cells, but since I'll be charging them external I'll take the precautions to check them more carefully each time. The 4x30Q is an good choice economically as well.

OLight commented that 9A was required, and ideally 10A, but with the 2S2P I do wonder if that that really is per battery although they were implying it was when asked if certain batteries would power the light. I almost escaped this one, but the GG offer came at a weak moment; a crazy light, should be fun.

OT: I only recently got the EC4SW because I just have not been happy with their products. I am really impressed with it, I really like the 2 cell side-by-side format so I had to try it. Of course missed the good group buy pricing, but I'm still happy. I'm surprised that with its small size and wieght it competes against the TK35UE very well. As long as it does not die pre maturely I'm sure going to really like it.


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## Bucur (Nov 1, 2016)

JohnnyMac’s review of the X7 reveals a very useful tip: wiping clean the positive contacts helps in prolonging Turbo S mode operation! He sums it up as “_Must be some type of oily coating on the contacts that limited current throughput enough to cause Turbo S to fail_”. 

I wiped clean the positive contacts on the tail cap and in the head (inside the battery case) with isopropyl alcohol, as well as both ends of all the batteries that have been in touch with them. I now can enjoy Turbo S mode down to about 3.84V. This is a great improvement from about 4.10V! I look forward to receiving my Samsung 30Qs but in the meantime, my X7 is now substantially more usable. You can read this awesome review, including his findings on which batteries work better with the X7 here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?425121-Review-Olight-X7-Marauder


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## StandardBattery (Nov 1, 2016)

Always a good idea on any high amperage device. They should really do this at manufacturing, but it ads complexity to the process that for these small runs is not economical for many manufacturing lines.


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## defbear (Nov 3, 2016)

I'm feeling a little dense as I can not seem to find the 30Q battery in a button top. I've tried a couple of set of batteries. Both sets are new and have gone through two recharge cycles. I scrubbed the X7's battery contacts with Deoxit Gold. The Nitecore NL189 3400 mAh will drive the X7 to Turbo. TurboS lights up and immediately backs down to Turbo. I use these batteries in a Nitecore TM06s which has 4000lmn. I have a set of Keeppower 18650 3400mAh 3.7/12.58Wh Part No. P1834J Ver:2016 button tops. They seem to work. (Are these those 30Q's in disguise?) No trouble lighting up TurboS and staying there. After about 2 1/2 minutes my arm gets tired  I have had a couple of times where I can click the side button and the light won't step through L-M-H but does nothing or turns itself off. It seems the lights electronics get confused. Twice on Moonlight while I press and hold to go into Low, I get Strobe. A couple of other times it went from Moonlight to Turbo. The batteries are at 4.05.


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## watchmania (Nov 3, 2016)

defbear said:


> I'm feeling a little dense as I can not seem to find the 30Q battery in a button top.



I don't think button top 30Q existed. Never cared to buy button tops -- except couple of Efest 3100mAh I bought for cheap -- all my batteries are flat tops. Most of the time I solder blobs on all of my flashlights' positive contacts, after making sure all things worked with magnets for several days.

Now while soldering on the tailcaps on X7 was quite harder than usual, I gave up soldering on the inner tube positive contacts.. This thing dissipates heat like crazy, much better than ESCs.



defbear said:


> I have had a couple of times where I can click the side button and the light won't step through L-M-H but does nothing or turns itself off. It seems the lights electronics get confused. Twice on Moonlight while I press and hold to go into Low, I get Strobe. A couple of other times it went from Moonlight to Turbo. The batteries are at 4.05.



No idea, never happened to me even with my older batteries on 2S1P. Better rule out battery voltage sagging by testing with known batteries.


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## Lexel (Nov 3, 2016)

http://www.banggood.com/4PCS-Samsun...Top-18650-Battery-p-1067185.html?rmmds=search

less than 25$ for a set of 30q button top
on amazon there is one but for 17$ each


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## watchmania (Nov 3, 2016)

Lexel said:


> http://www.banggood.com/4PCS-Samsun...Top-18650-Battery-p-1067185.html?rmmds=search
> 
> less than 25$ for a set of 30q button top
> on amazon there is one but for 17$ each



Ouch didn't know they existed! Not bad at all, actually.

I always bought my battery locally, though. I thought they stopped shipping batteries through airmail?


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## EDness (Nov 3, 2016)

Lexel said:


> http://www.banggood.com/4PCS-Samsun...Top-18650-Battery-p-1067185.html?rmmds=search
> 
> less than 25$ for a set of 30q button top
> on amazon there is one but for 17$ each




http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&search=30q&product_id=542

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=784&search=vtc6


They have both VTC6 and 30Q in button top. I personally used small magnets on top of my VTC6 for my X7...no problems.


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## defbear (Nov 3, 2016)

EDness said:


> http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&search=30q&product_id=542
> 
> http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=784&search=vtc6
> 
> ...



Thank you for the links. Just ordered a set of each. Curious, where did you get your magnets?


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## EDness (Nov 3, 2016)

defbear said:


> Thank you for the links. Just ordered a set of each. Curious, where did you get your magnets?




ebay...got 25 5mmx2mm magnets for $4.


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## MAD777 (Nov 3, 2016)

EDness said:


> ebay...got 25 5mmx2mm magnets for $4.


That's how I buy mine.


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## IPTelman (Nov 5, 2016)

Greetings from Connecticut. 

I've just come across this thread after searching for a resolution to the Turbo S issue.
With my particular unit, the actual no load voltage doesn't seem to make a difference. I can put in fully charged 10 amp draw batteries, test Turbo S works fine for 10-15 seconds then place the light on the shelf for 12 hours, come back only to have Turbo S mode only work for a split second. If I come back to the light again in say 10 minutes, Turbo S works fine. 
I cannot get Turbo S to work at all at voltages less than about 4.08. (Blinks momentarily) I'm using the Eastshine E35 batteries.

Wondering what may be different in the lights that others have reported absolutely no issues down to far lower voltages? Could it be a particular batch of lights that have the issue?

The S/N of my light is GO9170005


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## Bucur (Nov 5, 2016)

IPTelman said:


> Greetings from Connecticut.
> 
> I've just come across this thread after searching for a resolution to the Turbo S issue.
> With my particular unit, the actual no load voltage doesn't seem to make a difference. I can put in fully charged 10 amp draw batteries, test Turbo S works fine for 10-15 seconds then place the light on the shelf for 12 hours, come back only to have Turbo S mode only work for a split second. If I come back to the light again in say 10 minutes, Turbo S works fine.
> ...



I think that such inconsistencies are due to the current supply of the batteries being extremely close to their limits. The X7 can draw a tad more current the next time and/or the batteries can supply a tad less. Their protection circuits may also be a tad less consistent than perfect. In my case, even simply relocating the batteries could, sometimes, help in driving the Turbo S mode which was unavailable during the last attempt. Cleaning the positive terminals helped me a lot and I believe unprotected batteries with higher current rating will help even more. 

BTW, welcome to the forums.


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## IPTelman (Nov 5, 2016)

Thank you Bucur

I'm a bit reluctant to go with unprotected cells. I may give that a try however as my experience now is less than ideal.
Of course if they do resolve the issue, I'll have 8 brand new Eastshines sitting about doing nothing.


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## defbear (Nov 5, 2016)

I have both VTC6 and 30Q's on the way. Does this light have low voltage protection?


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## Bucur (Nov 5, 2016)

defbear said:


> I have both VTC6 and 30Q's on the way. Does this light have low voltage protection?



Yes, it does. However, in a series battery configuration, this does not guarantee that one of the cells will not go south. In order to properly benefit from the low voltage protection circuit of the light, the behaviour (discharge curve) of the batteries should be very close to each other .


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## IPTelman (Nov 5, 2016)

30q's on the way from Mountain. 
Thanks EDness.

Hope they do the trick.


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## EDness (Nov 6, 2016)

Bucur said:


> I think that such inconsistencies are due to the current supply of the batteries being extremely close to their limits. The X7 can draw a tad more current the next time and/or the batteries can supply a tad less. Their protection circuits may also be a tad less consistent than perfect. In my case, even simply relocating the batteries could, sometimes, help in driving the Turbo S mode which was unavailable during the last attempt. Cleaning the positive terminals helped me a lot and I believe unprotected batteries with higher current rating will help even more.
> 
> BTW, welcome to the forums.




IMO I think the protection circuits' the cause of the turbo s issue. I used LG MJ1(unprotected) which has similar specs as the Eastshine E35 (GAs with protection circuit)...never a problem.


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## brighterthanthesun (Nov 6, 2016)

How much resistance is added to the flat top cell when magnets are added to make it a button top?


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## StandardBattery (Nov 6, 2016)

brighterthanthesun said:


> How much resistance is added to the flat top cell when magnets are added to make it a button top?


I can't remember, but someone did a measurement of some magnets quite a while back. Might have been another forum. I remember it was nothing to worry about for the example tested, but I can't remember the current involved. I'm not a fan of using magnets, but if needed I would carefully consider the particular use-case and materials involved. The main point is to ensure they will stay put no matter what.


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## defbear (Nov 6, 2016)

Thank you EDness for the magnet suggestion. A friend gave me four thin round magnets. I have a set of Flattop VTC6's. Although I feel like adding magnets is like sticking a metal slug where a fuse is supposed to be, I tried the magnets. They stay put. The X7 works great with them. But I have some concerns. The X7 will light up TurboS too well. I did some timing tests. X7 will stay on TurboS past 3 minutes. At this point the light is too hot to hold. I then turned the light off. I let the light cool and put X7 through the TurboS test two more times. I took the VTC6's out to measure. The battery's were very warm but not super hot. Voltage was 4.1 down from 4.25. I kept testing. At 3.8 voltage TurboS would last 50 seconds and the step down. At. 3.75 TurboS lasted 20 seconds. I've got to run the tests again and make sure the light did not step down without me noticing during the 3 minute test. Perhaps that did not matter. I'm no sissy, and the light got too hot to hold without gloves. The concern is cooking the VTC6's and turning the light into a bomb. The built in protection is my brain. Would the 30q's at 15 amp be safer than VTC6's at 30 amps? So my testing was not 'Normal Use'. With my Keeppower cells the light does step down from TurboS at 2 1/2 minutes. If I use the Keeppower's the light works fine at the start. But at 4 volts, the button gets confused sometimes. I mentioned it in another post. Press and hold might cycle the levels, or turn the light off or even start the strobe. With the VTC6's the light obeyed all commands as specified by Olight. So I'm not wild about running unprotected batteries in the X7. But the X7 loves them. It did not sound like the Olight 18650's are the 'hot ticket'. I may order the LG MJ1's I read about in an earlier post.


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## Bucur (Nov 6, 2016)

EDness said:


> IMO I think the protection circuits' the cause of the turbo s issue. I used LG MJ1(unprotected) which has similar specs as the Eastshine E35 (GAs with protection circuit)...never a problem.



After cleaning the contacts, I now have no problem either with my protected Orbtronics (ORB3500P) down to about 3.84V rest voltage. Does the X7 enter Turbo S mode when the unprotected LG MJ1s are below about 3.8V rest voltage? If so, how much below?


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## EDness (Nov 6, 2016)

defbear said:


> Thank you EDness for the magnet suggestion. A friend gave me four thin round magnets. I have a set of Flattop VTC6's. Although I feel like adding magnets is like sticking a metal slug where a fuse is supposed to be, I tried the magnets. They stay put. The X7 works great with them. But I have some concerns. The X7 will light up TurboS too well. I did some timing tests. X7 will stay on TurboS past 3 minutes. At this point the light is too hot to hold. I then turned the light off. I let the light cool and put X7 through the TurboS test two more times. I took the VTC6's out to measure. The battery's were very warm but not super hot. Voltage was 4.1 down from 4.25. I kept testing. At 3.8 voltage TurboS would last 50 seconds and the step down. At. 3.75 TurboS lasted 20 seconds. I've got to run the tests again and make sure the light did not step down without me noticing during the 3 minute test. Perhaps that did not matter. I'm no sissy, and the light got too hot to hold without gloves. The concern is cooking the VTC6's and turning the light into a bomb. The built in protection is my brain. Would the 30q's at 15 amp be safer than VTC6's at 30 amps? So my testing was not 'Normal Use'. With my Keeppower cells the light does step down from TurboS at 2 1/2 minutes. If I use the Keeppower's the light works fine at the start. But at 4 volts, the button gets confused sometimes. I mentioned it in another post. Press and hold might cycle the levels, or turn the light off or even start the strobe. With the VTC6's the light obeyed all commands as specified by Olight. So I'm not wild about running unprotected batteries in the X7. But the X7 loves them. It did not sound like the Olight 18650's are the 'hot ticket'. I may order the LG MJ1's I read about in an earlier post.



When the light gets too hot, I shut it off. Turbo S mode is all about showing off, the mid levels are plenty useful for my use. 

The magnet fix doesn't work on all flashlights, but it stays put for the X7 and I'm not worried at all. The way the battery sits, I don't think it'll short out even if it moved out of position.

For the price I say stick with Samsung 30Q. It's running at the limits of the LG MJ1, but well below for 30Q.


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## EDness (Nov 6, 2016)

Bucur said:


> After cleaning the contacts, I now have no problem either with my protected Orbtronics (ORB3500P) down to about 3.84V rest voltage. Does the X7 enter Turbo S mode when the unprotected LG MJ1s are below about 3.8V rest voltage? If so, how much below?



I cleaned the contacts when I read the post about it last week...in my case it didn't make a difference. As for the MJ1, I don't plan on testing it to see how long it stays on. I have no plans on using the MJ1 as I have 2 sets of VTC6 for my X7. The light runs at the limit of the MJ1 and I don't want to kill my batteries.


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## IPTelman (Nov 7, 2016)

Tested batteries last night at 4.13. This AM when I tested Turbo S it lasted only about 5 seconds.Tried again, about 1/2 second. I put the light down kinda disgusted.
Picked it up again 5 minutes later and with no changes Turbo S worked fine. Worked on subsequent tries as well. Took batteries out and they were at 4.08.

Could part of the problem be temperature or time related? I always seem to get the issue after the light has sat overnight.


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## EDness (Nov 7, 2016)

IPTelman said:


> Tested batteries last night at 4.13. This AM when I tested Turbo S it lasted only about 5 seconds.Tried again, about 1/2 second. I put the light down kinda disgusted.
> Picked it up again 5 minutes later and with no changes Turbo S worked fine. Worked on subsequent tries as well. Took batteries out and they were at 4.08.
> 
> Could part of the problem be temperature or time related? I always seem to get the issue after the light has sat overnight.



this is with the Eastshine E35 batteries? I'm curious on your test with the 30Qs.


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## IPTelman (Nov 7, 2016)

Yes this is using the Eastshines. Just now I put in a different set that was fully charged 2 days ago. The X7 lasted about 10 seconds in Turbo S. 
Waited a few minutes, could not reproduce. Anxious to test the 30q's as after this latest test I'm really leaning towards batteries that cannot handle the load at voltage as the cause.


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## ven (Nov 7, 2016)

Had a quick google on eastshines and ...............well . Would wait for the decent 30Q cells, 15a and 3000mah which will handle the light well. I would not be tempted to even try for any of the turbo modes with the eastshines(could they think of a worse name?) . Sounds like the load is way too much for the(not 10a) cell and sagging like mad. Full V may hold it for a few seconds(if it is even in turbo S..........my guess it wont be). 

30Q will give you a new flashlight


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## IPTelman (Nov 7, 2016)

Here's hoping the 30q's wont kill me.


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## IPTelman (Nov 7, 2016)

ven said:


> Had a quick google on eastshines and ...............well . Would wait for the decent 30Q cells, 15a and 3000mah which will handle the light well. I would not be tempted to even try for any of the turbo modes with the eastshines(could they think of a worse name?) . Sounds like the load is way too much for the(not 10a) cell and sagging like mad. Full V may hold it for a few seconds(if it is even in turbo S..........my guess it wont be).
> 
> 30Q will give you a new flashlight



It's also easy to blame a new battery company. 
Sad fact is that folks here have reported the same issues with many different protected batteries.


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## ven (Nov 7, 2016)

Protected cells are not ideal, you could get away with the 10a 3500 protected with 3 mosfet, so will not trip bellow 10a(orbtronic to name one brand).

Right fuel for the job, being a relatively high output light, i would be looking at the 30q samsungs or the 20a LG's . Decent cells will give you more use of turbo and turbo S when the voltage drops(not once it gets to 4v, too much sag and no turbo mode/s).


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## IPTelman (Nov 7, 2016)

ven said:


> Protected cells are not ideal, you could get away with the 10a 3500 protected with 3 mosfet, so will not trip bellow 10a(orbtronic to name one brand).
> 
> Right fuel for the job, being a relatively high output light, i would be looking at the 30q samsungs or the 20a LG's . Decent cells will give you more use of turbo and turbo S when the voltage drops(not once it gets to 4v, too much sag and no turbo mode/s).



Thank you. 
30q's will arrive Wed or Thursday.


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## ven (Nov 7, 2016)

Great cells, i use them in higher drain applications and been superb


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## IPTelman (Nov 7, 2016)

Can you point that across the pond? 
I'd like to see if it lights up the East coast.


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## ven (Nov 7, 2016)

I can point it anywhere i want The throw is not ground breaking from the xhp70's, probably around 100kcd or a bit over..................but everything up to there is lit in 15,000+lm.


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## IPTelman (Nov 7, 2016)

ven said:


> I can point it anywhere i want The throw is not ground breaking from the xhp70's, probably around 100kcd or a bit over..................but everything up to there is lit in 15,000+lm.



First it's all about the throw, then it's all about the flood. I obviously need more than 1 light.


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## EDness (Nov 7, 2016)

IPTelman said:


> First it's all about the throw, then it's all about the flood. I obviously need more than 1 light.



Nice!

I need to get a throw light as most of my lights are flooders. My problem is I don't need throwers...

I also have a modded version of the X7 from Vinh so it throws well for what it is...16000 lumens at turn on!


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## ven (Nov 7, 2016)

Correct!!! then you need both and for a good run time, k70vn/rc40vnT/k60vn


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## StandardBattery (Nov 8, 2016)

Threw some 30Q button tops in the M7 last night for a quick test. Only had about 5min so no cleaning of contacts. Cells were all resting at 4.15V maybe a tad low, they came off the All-88 charger a day ealier. 

WOW! I was impressed by this light. Since i had a few other big flooders, this one was most impressive inside. Just unreal what these lights can do today. Outside is also super impressive, but in my test conditions turbo and turbo S are less impressive outside compared to my other big flooders and because i had a large area close and the difference is not so noticable at distance. Now this is all relative so make no mistake this thing is a monster outdoors. 

Only had a very short play time so no runtime check on turbo-S yet.


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## CREEXHP70LED (Nov 8, 2016)

I plan on buying another set of batteries for this light, I have the Olight branded HDC's now, and have not had time to play with my Marauder yet (I just received it yesterday) because my two bay intellicharger is taking forever to charge these batteries. They must have shipped from china with absolutely minimum voltage. I have cleaned all contacts on the batteries, charger and tail cap and head of the light with rubbing alcohol, so I am ready to go tonight.


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## ven (Nov 8, 2016)

The i2 is slooooooooooow mr xhp70. You need an opus bt c3100 where you can chuck 1a into them for a happy/medium charge rate/time(or a charger that can do around 1a per bay). 

Cells should arrive around 3.6v, sometimes 3.8v and it will take a good while to charge due to the slow i2 charger. Good chargers and cells are as important as a good light, all go together for a safe and enjoyable illuminating experience


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## IPTelman (Nov 8, 2016)

Interesting update from JohnnyMac about the OLight High Drain cells. 

​Update 20161107: Olight sent me a set of replacement cells for the X7 and with them the light functions perfectly. Tested it with my new 30Q and it worked great. Popped in the new cells from Olight and it worked great. Popped in the original cells that came with it and it won't stay in Turbo S. Definitely an issue with the cells and not the light itself.  Per Olight's request I am shipping the old cells back to Olight for testing.


But OUCH that's a steep price.


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## IPTelman (Nov 10, 2016)

After a day, the 30Q's seem to have resolved the issue. 
Another few days and I'll be 100% convinced.


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## IPTelman (Nov 11, 2016)

Day 2 and everything still works perfectly with the 30Q's. 
I emailed Eastshine explaining the situation and they gave me a full refund for all 8 cells I had purchased...and told me to keep them. (great company to deal with)
It's unfortunate that the Eastshine batteries weren't quite up to the high amp draw as they are IMHO really nice cells. Tested at 3500 or slightly over. I'll continue using them in my other applications.


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## EDness (Nov 11, 2016)

IPTelman said:


> Day 2 and everything still works perfectly with the 30Q's.
> I emailed Eastshine explaining the situation and they gave me a full refund for all 8 cells I had purchased...and told me to keep them. (great company to deal with)
> It's unfortunate that the Eastshine batteries weren't quite up to the high amp draw as they are IMHO really nice cells. Tested at 3500 or slightly over. I'll continue using them in my other applications.



Nice!

Can't beat free batteries! The protection circuits tripped at 8A and the x7 prob went over that at Turbo S


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## Lexel (Nov 11, 2016)

You can also solder a brass pill on top of your cells if you want almost no vltage drop


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## IPTelman (Nov 11, 2016)

Lexel said:


> You can also solder a brass pill on top of your cells if you want almost no vltage drop



Voltage drop is a function of battery chemistry, not a soldering job  I personally would not consider using solder where load is in excess of 8 amps.


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## CREEXHP70LED (Nov 12, 2016)

I got the D4 Nitecore charger and it is only 375 mAh per bay with 4 batteries in it. 750 mAh per bay with 2 cells. Slow, but I just put them on at night and wait........I can only justify the slow charge rate by telling myself that it is better for the batteries. Lol


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## IPTelman (Nov 12, 2016)

It's my understanding that charging slowly is of no benefit to a Lithium based battery, in fact it may be a detriment.
Perhaps someone else could chime in.

I charge at 1 amp.


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## StandardBattery (Nov 12, 2016)

CREEXHP70LED said:


> I got the D4 Nitecore charger and it is only 375 mAh per bay with 4 batteries in it. 750 mAh per bay with 2 cells. Slow, but I just put them on at night and wait........I can only justify the slow charge rate by telling myself that it is better for the batteries. Lol


I had forgotten it was so slow. I got one in a package with a light a couple years ago or more as the light was not available without it at the time for their special deal. It's definitely a bit too slow for the high capacity 18650 batteries we have today. I remember using it a few times to test it and it was OK back then at least on charging a couple batteries. you are going to need to look at a better charger though if you are going to be using the X7 or just top up the cells quite often since the X7 likes them hot anyway for Turbo modes.


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## ven (Nov 12, 2016)

IPTelman said:


> It's my understanding that charging slowly is of no benefit to a Lithium based battery, in fact it may be a detriment.
> Perhaps someone else could chime in.
> 
> I charge at 1 amp.



Not too slow, or too quick..............pretty good happy medium 1a rate imo. If i charge 4 cells its at 1a, my vape cells(usually same type) i charge as 1 or 2 at 1.5a. Most high drain cells are max 4a or around that, they can take it but no doubt loose some cycles of its life.


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## Lexel (Nov 12, 2016)

IPTelman said:


> Voltage drop is a function of battery chemistry, not a soldering job  I personally would not consider using solder where load is in excess of 8 amps.



A 5x3mm brass pill has 16mm2 for the current to flow, of course the top where the spring contacts there should be only brass no solder


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## IPTelman (Nov 12, 2016)

That won't change the internal resistance of the cell. The solder mention was just in passing.
It sounds like all you are doing is adapting a flat top to be a buttonesque cell.


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## ateupwithgolf (Dec 3, 2016)

X7 in need of batteries: So the consensus is Samsung 30Q button top are best followed by Sony VTC6, then LGM1?


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## IPTelman (Dec 3, 2016)

Not sure of any consensus; I know I'm happy. 
The protected high drain batteries I was using (Eastshine) just weren't cutting it. Made the light unreliable as far as Turbo S.
No such issue since moving to the 30Q. 

Eastshine was nice enough to give me a full refund and let me keep the 8 cells I purchased, despite them being fine for a less demanding light.


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## StandardBattery (Dec 3, 2016)

ateupwithgolf said:


> X7 in need of batteries: So the consensus is Samsung 30Q button top are best followed by Sony VTC6, then LGM1?


No consensus on 30Q vs. VTC6, but if you get button top 30Q you drop them in and go. If you use VTC6 you have to mess with them a bit as they don't have a button-top, and you probably need to make them have one.

I think there is a good consensus that the 30Q work well.


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## CREEXHP70LED (Dec 3, 2016)

StandardBattery said:


> I had forgotten it was so slow. I got one in a package with a light a couple years ago or more as the light was not available without it at the time for their special deal. It's definitely a bit too slow for the high capacity 18650 batteries we have today. I remember using it a few times to test it and it was OK back then at least on charging a couple batteries. you are going to need to look at a better charger though if you are going to be using the X7 or just top up the cells quite often since the X7 likes them hot anyway for Turbo modes.



I am just keeping them topped of right now and at 750 mAh by doing two at a time. it would take the same amount of time at 375 mAh with 4 cells at a time but if the batteries like a faster charge current, I will use 750 mAh. I will eventually get a charger that does 1 plus amp.


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## Bucur (Dec 5, 2016)

I finally got my 30Qs. After an initial full charge, they were quite successful in powering my X7 at Turbo S mode. I did not run my X7 at Turbo S mode all the time, though. What I mean is that Turbo S was available when I wish. At the point where Turbo S was no longer available, the rest voltages of my 30Qs were about 3.77V per cell (two of them 3.76V and the other two 3.78V). 

I wondered how much juice was remaining in the batteries at this point. To find out; I discharged them to 3V at 1A. Their remaining capacities were 1477, 1546, 1542 and 1516mAh; with an average of 1520mAh. Assuming that the capacities of my fully charged brand new 30Qs were 3000mAh to 3V at 1A discharge rate, I conclude that about half of this capacity is available for powering Turbo S mode. 

None of the above is scientific but I believe this gives me a realistic perspective on what I can expect from my 30Q powered X7; in regard to Turbo S availability.


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## IPTelman (Dec 5, 2016)

Isn't it great to finally have the light perform as designed?


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## defbear (Dec 5, 2016)

I have both 30Q's and VTC6 sets. The X7 performs flawlessly with either set. I can run TurboS 4 minutes plus and it does not step down. The light gets hot but not scorching. I just received a set of the HD Olight cells. I have not tested yet but they seem to work TurboS fine. 
Does the X7 have Built-In low discharge safety cutoff? Or are they allowing the Olight High Discharge cells to perform low voltage cutoff?


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## IPTelman (Dec 5, 2016)

The light has a low cutoff. 
I don't wait that long however. Once the light starts stepping down from Turbo S I toss the cells into a charger.


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## Bucur (Dec 6, 2016)

I repeated my “Turbo S Availability Test” with my Orbtronic ORB3500P cells. At the point where Turbo S was no longer available, I discharged them to 3V at 1A. Their remaining capacities were 2890, 2968, 2949 and 2934mAh; with an average of 2935mAh. Assuming that the capacities of my fully charged quite new (less than 5 cycles) ORB3500Ps were 3500mAh per cell to 3V at 1A discharge rate, I conclude that only 565mAh per cell of this capacity is available for powering the Turbo S mode of the X7. 

This simple unscientific comparison suggests that I have 1520mAh per cell capacity for driving the Turbo S mode with my Samsung 30Q batteries, whereas 565mAh per cell with Orbtronic ORB3500Ps. It is clear that the ORB3500Ps would outperform the 30Qs at low output applications; due to their additional capacity. 

It seems the lumens war arrived at a bottleneck like battery performance. Delivering mega lumens in the wink of an eye is something, for sure, but sustaining mega lumens for a reasonable period of time is something else. The latter seems to require batteries of a new ball game.


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## Sen0rphil (Dec 6, 2016)

Bucur said:


> I repeated my “Turbo S Availability Test” with my Orbtronic ORB3500P cells. At the point where Turbo S was no longer available, I discharged them to 3V at 1A. Their remaining capacities were 2890, 2968, 2949 and 2934mAh; with an average of 2935mAh. Assuming that the capacities of my fully charged quite new (less than 5 cycles) ORB3500Ps were 3500mAh per cell to 3V at 1A discharge rate, I conclude that only 565mAh per cell of this capacity is available for powering the Turbo S mode of the X7.
> 
> This simple unscientific comparison suggests that I have 1520mAh per cell capacity for driving the Turbo S mode with my Samsung 30Q batteries, whereas 565mAh per cell with Orbtronic ORB3500Ps. It is clear that the ORB3500Ps would outperform the 30Qs at low output applications; due to their additional capacity.
> 
> It seems the lumens war arrived at a bottleneck like battery performance. Delivering mega lumens in the wink of an eye is something, for sure, but sustaining mega lumens for a reasonable period of time is something else. The latter seems to require batteries of a new ball game.


Ok guys I have some news for you. I have just received my X7 neutral white which is the latest batch from the factory. It has perfectly centred LEDs and no flaws unlike my last one which I returned. The tint is beautiful and slightly Rosy. 

Now here comes the interesting part , the driver has been modified to my last one. There is a very slight visible pwm when I I adjust my shutter speed settings around the 500/sec but it is very unobtrusive and not visible at all in the normal photo and video mode so in real life most people wouldn't pick it up when taking pictures of videos.

Now the most interesting part, I was doing some runtime tests last night with the Samsung 30q cells, I was using as a room light at 3000 Lumen for more than an hour, then tested turbo and Turbo S outside just to try and drain them as much as possible to see if Turbo S would stop working. Turbo S just kept working through the whole test, then I decided to put the batteries on the charger. Their resting voltages were 3.5v and it charged 2 amps into them. 

It will be very interesting how far it can discharge before Turbo S doesn't become available, but this is very interesting and an awesome change in my eyes.


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## StorminMatt (Dec 6, 2016)

StandardBattery said:


> No consensus on 30Q vs. VTC6, but if you get button top 30Q you drop them in and go. If you use VTC6 you have to mess with them a bit as they don't have a button-top, and you probably need to make them have one.



Incorrect.

Mountain Electronics has the VTC6 available with button tops. They cost a little more than the 30Q. But per HKJ's tests, they perform a little better than the 30Q's both in terms of voltage and capacity.


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## Bucur (Dec 21, 2016)

I discovered something about the 30Q battery/X7 combination: The point of battery depletion at which the X7 can no longer sustain Turbo S mode is almost exactly the point which my SkyRc MC3000 brings the batteries to, at Storage Mode, more or less with factory settings. 

I used my X7 with 30Q batteries, at several output levels and durations, for daily tasks. Every time, I tested it for Turbo S availability, prior to turning off. I kept it at Turbo S mode for a full minute, each time, before turning off. Finally, the X7 could not maintain 9K lumens for more than 20 seconds. At this point, I applied the Storage Mode of the MC3000 to the batteries. The charger applied 0 mAh to one of the batteries, +5, +7, and +10 mAh to the others before bringing them to 3.80V with 0.1A termination. I have two sets of 30Qs, one in duty and the other in storage. From now on, I can omit storage charging, provided that I can detect the point at which they no longer can support Turbo S mode. 

BTW, the X7 needs a “Turbo S Anxiety Eliminator”. My one minute tests after every usage probably, if not certainly, must have constituted the lion’s share of my battery consumption. If I had used this energy for illumination purposes, rather than for testing, I would have benefited from my charge cycle much more rationally. I wish there was a “Turbo S Availability Indicator” on the X7! The fear of not being able to “show-off” 9K lumens is worse than making do with only 5.5K lumens!


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## IPTelman (Dec 21, 2016)

Bucur said:


> I discovered something about the 30Q battery/X7 combination: The point of battery depletion at which the X7 can no longer sustain Turbo S mode is almost exactly the point which my SkyRc MC3000 brings the batteries to, at Storage Mode, more or less with factory settings.
> 
> I used my X7 with 30Q batteries, at several output levels and durations, for daily tasks. Every time, I tested it for Turbo S availability, prior to turning off. I kept it at Turbo S mode for a full minute, each time, before turning off. Finally, the X7 could not maintain 9K lumens for more than 20 seconds. At this point, I applied the Storage Mode of the MC3000 to the batteries. The charger applied 0 mAh to one of the batteries, +5, +7, and +10 mAh to the others before bringing them to 3.80V with 0.1A termination. I have two sets of 30Qs, one in duty and the other in storage. From now on, I can omit storage charging, provided that I can detect the point at which they no longer can support Turbo S mode.
> 
> BTW, the X7 needs a “Turbo S Anxiety Eliminator”. My one minute tests after every usage probably, if not certainly, must have constituted the lion’s share of my battery consumption. If I had used this energy for illumination purposes, rather than for testing, I would have benefited from my charge cycle much more rationally. I wish there was a “Turbo S Availability Indicator” on the X7! The fear of not being able to “show-off” 9K lumens is worse than making do with only 5.5K lumens!



Always keep a second set with you.


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## brighterthanthesun (Dec 21, 2016)

I have an X7vn in the mail and on it's way right now. Vihn includes a set of LG 3500 mAh batteries, but I wonder how these cells could provide top performance in a light pushing 16,000 lumens. Does anyone happen to know how many Amps the X7vn draws from each cell? I have 30Q's I can use also.


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## mikusinski (Jan 9, 2017)

IPTelman said:


> Day 2 and everything still works perfectly with the 30Q's.
> I emailed Eastshine explaining the situation and they gave me a full refund for all 8 cells I had purchased...and told me to keep them. (great company to deal with)
> It's unfortunate that the Eastshine batteries weren't quite up to the high amp draw as they are IMHO really nice cells. Tested at 3500 or slightly over. I'll continue using them in my other applications.



Hello everyone!
This is my first post ever, so please be patient.

I also have Samsung 30Q batteries, but I don't know if they're broken, or my flashlight. I've noticed that my flashlight draws to much current when it's off. It feels pretty warm when I take it to my hand, so I did some tests. I put fully charged batteries into flashlight and measured their voltage every 2 hours. Here's my results:





It seems like full discharge will be in 3 - 4 days. For comparision, I did test at 300lm mode, and that's the results:




It looks like the "off current" is equal of about 16,7% of 300lm mode current (after 4 hours on 300lm mode the voltage is about 3,9V - just like after 24 hours on "Off). I'm confused - should I return my flashligh as broken?


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## ven (Jan 9, 2017)

That does not sound right, extreme parasitic drain! 

Are all batteries good, have you another matched set of 4 to try?

Sounds like it needs to be returned

:welcome:


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## StandardBattery (Jan 9, 2017)

mikusinski said:


> Hello everyone!
> This is my first post ever, so please be patient.
> 
> I also have Samsung 30Q batteries, but I don't know if they're broken, or my flashlight. I've noticed that my flashlight draws to much current when it's off. It feels pretty warm when I take it to my hand, so I did some tests. I put fully charged batteries into flashlight and measured their voltage every 2 hours. Here's my results:
> ...


Sounds like the flaslight. Are you sure you put the batteries in correctly? 2up/2dn. You can power the light with just two batteries. Either set of batteries side by side, 1 up, 1dn; check if you can do that on your light, and if one circuit seems to drain the cells more than the other, then swich which pair of batteries you are using, is it the same. When you measure your batteries, have they all dropped the same amount of voltage? That should help you determine if it is a battery or light issue. Also check if one battery is hotter than the other after being in the light for a while.


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## IPTelman (Jan 9, 2017)

mikusinski said:


> Hello everyone!
> This is my first post ever, so please be patient.
> 
> I also have Samsung 30Q batteries, but I don't know if they're broken, or my flashlight. I've noticed that my flashlight draws to much current when it's off. It feels pretty warm when I take it to my hand, so I did some tests. I put fully charged batteries into flashlight and measured their voltage every 2 hours. Here's my results:
> ...



Not right. Are the 30Q's known good and have they all been purchased at the same time?


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## mikusinski (Jan 14, 2017)

I hope that batteries are good, I bought four at once, one month ago. Unfortunately I don't have another set to try. In my test at 300lm mode, led indicator started to blink after almost 11 hours of use. Is it enough to say that all batteries are good? I'm sure about the proper polarity of insertet batteries. Powering flashlight with only 2 batteries is working, both cases. During my measuring all batteries dropped the same amount of voltage. I didn't feel that one battery is warmer than others.
I've decided to send back my flashlight. Thanks for help.


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## StandardBattery (Jan 14, 2017)

mikusinski said:


> I hope that batteries are good, I bought four at once, one month ago. Unfortunately I don't have another set to try. In my test at 300lm mode, led indicator started to blink after almost 11 hours of use. Is it enough to say that all batteries are good? I'm sure about the proper polarity of insertet batteries. Powering flashlight with only 2 batteries is working, both cases. During my measuring all batteries dropped the same amount of voltage. I didn't feel that one battery is warmer than others.
> I've decided to send back my flashlight. Thanks for help.


I gave a method of testing the light and batteries, two batteries at a time, no need for another set, but it is a hassle.


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## CREEXHP70LED (Jan 19, 2017)

I need to get some 30Q's a set of four for about $25 seems better than almost $70 for the branded Olights.


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## IPTelman (Jan 19, 2017)

CREEXHP70LED said:


> I need to get some 30Q's a set of four for about $25 seems better than almost $70 for the branded Olights.


I thought you already had a set. You won't be sorry.


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## CREEXHP70LED (Jan 31, 2017)

IPTelman said:


> I thought you already had a set. You won't be sorry.



No, I only have the Olight branded HDC cells. Does anyone know what cell is under the Olight wrapper, and how they compare to the Q30's? I can't remember if the Q30's are protected or not, I will have to check. I plan on buying a 12,000 lumen X7R when they come out and wonder if Olight will use the same Olight branded HDC cells with that light as well, or if they will be a different cell altogether?


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## joelbnyc (Oct 29, 2017)

Can anyone link to a US vendor with button top high drain batteries in stock? Liionwholesale is out of 30Q button top, as is mtn.

What is the basis for thinking that 10A is not enough again? That the cells would lose capacity quicker and/or Turbo wouldn't work for as long/at all? EDIT, nevermind, I see the curves here: http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php and I get why the Sony VTC6 or the 30Q are ideal.

Also, any more thoughts on CW vs NW? Maybe this guy's white balance is off, but the CW looks neutral, and the NW does look yellow, here: http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/olight-x7-x7r-measurements-and-beamshots.58426/

Edit again, the NW looks nice, nothing like those yellow images on tlf, in real world use.


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