# JetBeam RRT-2 Raptor (R2) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!



## selfbuilt (Jul 24, 2009)

_*Reviewer's Note: *The RRT-2 Raptor was provided for review by JetBeam. Please see their website for more info._

_*UPDATE SEPT 27, 2011:* JetBeam has released a new series of RRT lights, with a continuously-variable interface. Please seen my recent RRT-21 and RRT-15 review for more info._

_*UPDATE SEPT 22, 2010:* As this review is over a year old, it is not surprising that the RRT-2 has gone through a number of build modifications. Please see post #98 by Ecodelosandes for some detailed pics of the currently shipping XP-G R5 edition of the RRT-2._

*Warning: Pic heavy!*







*Manufacturer's specifications, as taken from JetBeam's website:*

Rapid Response Activation Ring allows the user to select between the three various brightness levels and strobe function. Stainless steel ring, increased reliability and durability. 
Features new randomizing strobe
Stainless steel bezels protect the head and tail cap from drops and impacts, crenulated bezel can be used as a glass breaker or defensive tool.
CREE XR-E R2 LED
Max output of 240 Lumen with an effective range of 300+ yards 
New hybrid reflector specially designed for CREE LED, which allows for better beam quality, efficiency and throw capability. 
Features a redesigned high efficiency broad voltage drive circuit. 
Compatible with both CR123 batteries and 18650 rechargeable Li-ions. _(reviewer's note: RCR also appears to be supported)_
Floating positive end, designed for better battery contact. 
Built-in intelligent Li-ion rechargeable battery protection circuit. 
Impact-resistant meets US MIL-STD-810F accords. 
Meets IPX 8 waterproof standards 
Can utilize the "RM-01" tactical pressure switch and other available accessories
Dimension: Head Diameter 35mm, Tube Diameter25.4mm, Total Length 145mm, Weight: 175g

The RRT-2 is the "second generation" of the JetBeam Raptor line. The original RRT-1 Raptor was designed to be a fairly strong "thrower" with a simple control-ring user interface. The revised version has a much smaller head, but still provides significant throw for its size, thanks to a deep reflector. 






The RRT-2 comes in fairly standard JetBeam packaging for this size of light - a hard cardboard box with magnetic closing flap. The light comes with a manual, warranty card, spare o-rings, and spare tail-cap switch. Note there is no wrist strap or carrying pouch included on my sample.

One note to make up front – the user manual is rather inadequate for the light. Although it does cover the basics (i.e. how to turn on, insert a battery, and change light modes), it provides no detailed specs or background on the light. If you don't already know what batteries are supported, what components are built-in, etc., you are out of luck. :shrug: But it does emphasize the the fact that the "Standby" mode is not a true off, and should only be used as temporary off (see my UI discussion below).

















From left to right: 1xAW protected 18650, JetBeam RRT-2 Raptor, NiteCore SR3 + 18650 body tube, JetBeam Jet-III M, Olight M20, Tiablo A10-G, 4Sevens Quark 123.

Dimensions: Weight 172.4g, Length 150mm x Width 35mm (bezel)

The light is a bit larger than the typical 2xCR123A/18650 light, likely due to the control ring mechanism and deeper than typical reflector (for greater throw). I don't find it unreasonably longer. 

Note the slightly scalloped bezel ring (stainless steel) and control switch ring (aluminium?) and the protruding forward clicky.










The clicky feel is very similar other modern JetBeam lights with a forward clicky. In fact, the entire tailcap assembly appears to be identical to my  JetBeam M1X – they are interchangeable among the two lights.

Fit and finish are excellent on my sample, no flaws in the type-III hard anodizing (which is in JetBeam's typical dark-grey natural finish). There can often be significant mismatch in the color of natural anodizing between different components of a light, but my sample seems unusually consistent.

Identification labels are very sharp and clear, similar to the M1X (and an improvement over earlier JetBeam models). Labels are not as bright white as some other makers, but that actually helps to make them less obtrusive. Knurling is fairly standard for JetBeam (i.e. not very aggressive), but the presence of additional design elements with raised/flat portions helps with good hand grip.

Like other JetBeam models, screw threads are anodized for head or tailcap lock-out. :thumbsup: The light cannot tailstand, due to the forward clicky.

Note the significant brass heatsink in the head region of the light. oo:






Despite how the photo above looks, the reflector is actually smooth. There appears to be an ever so-slight rippling pattern to it, which combined with the reflections of the scalloped bezel ring, give the misleading impression in the photo above.

The light uses the standard Cree XR-E emitter, with a R2 output bin in this case. As you will see in my beamshots below, my sample seems to be a premium white "cool tint" (I'd guestimate WC tint bin). Obviously, there will be some variability here – there is no guarantee as to what you could receive. Most R2s that I've seen have been on the warm green/yellow end of the "cool white" spectrum – likely WG/WH. For those of you not familiar with tint bins, please see my Colour tint comparison and the summary LED tint charts found here. 

Observant viewers will note the apparent speck of debris or manufacturing defect on the smooth reflector (roughly 4 o'clock position). _Please note that this is actually very misleading in the photo - it is a reflection of a much smaller defect, located closer to the emitter (i.e. it is being magnified by the angle, just as the yellow phosphor die of the emitter is being picked up and magnified by the reflector)._ :shrug:. Nothing you can do about it, and it doesn't seem to affect the beam. 

_UPDATE: I forgot to mention it originally, but the beam is somewhat focusable - you can twist the head region separately from the section with the output mode labels. In practice, all this does is let you defocus the beam slightly, as the range is limited. Helpful to allow you to achieve the best possible focus, but not much else. Mine came default at what I determined to be the best focus anyway. _

*Comparison Beamshots*

_Note that I inadvertently set the camera to an f-stop of 2.7 for the RRT-2 pics (instead of 3.2 for all my other reviews). So that will make everything seem a bit brighter on that RRT-2 row._

All lights are on 100% on an AW protected 18650, about 0.5 meters from a white wall. 




























As you can see, the RRT-2 has a typical "thrower" appearance with a well-defined hotspot and some rings in the beam. On the whole, I don't find it too extreme in either aspect.

_*UPDATE*: Some additional long-distance beamshots, to show you how the light compares to others in its class. 

Please see my recent 100-yard Outdoor Beamshot review for more details (and additional lights)._











*User Interface*

The Raptor uses a new interface for JetBeam, previously well known for their continuously-variable IBS designs. This new interface is much simpler and very intuitive to use.

Light is turned on/off by the tailcap forward clicky (press for momentary, click to lock-on). Screw threads are anodized, so you could also use it like a twisty switch.

Output modes are controlled by a ring below the head. There are 3 constant output modes and an oscillating strobe mode, as well as a "standy mode" that is basically a temporary off. The closest comparables to this ring are the EagleTac M2-series lights and the new NiteCore SR3, although each model has its own particular aspects and features.

To access any of the 5 settings, simply turn the control ring. There is a dot indentation on the ring to tell you which mode you are currently in, by lining up with the marks on the head (something my EagleTac and NiteCore lights don't currently have, but may be in development). From left-to-right (i.e. clockwise if holding the light away from you in standard underhand carry), the dial turns from Hi – Mid – Lo – Strobe – Standby. There are pronounced detents at each level, so you feel the ring "click" into each output level as you reach it. The total traverse of the ring is less than half the total circumference of the light.

_UPDATE: An unusual quirk - each mode has a brief low intensity flash and short delay before lighting up when you press the tailcap. CPFer HKJ reports the flash to be 20 micro-seconds long, followed by 120 milliseconds before full activation. On Standby mode, you will only see the 20 us flash._

*"Standby"*

The "standby" mode is like the "off" position of the ring on the EagleTac M2 lights – when in this position, no light is produced. However, on both lights, current is still being drawn to allow the circuit to respond to a change in the state of the ring. Unless the switch is clicked off or the current path is broken by locking out some part of the light, this "standby" mode will continue to draw power. As such, the name "standby" is more appropriate than off. 

_UPDATE: CPFer HKJ reports that the standby current is 2mA, which is fairly high for this sort of mode - it will completely drain your batteries within a month or two if left on like that (hence the warning in the manual)._

What I don't quite get is why it is located after the strobe mode instead of after the lowest output mode. :sigh:

*"Randomizing Strobe"*

JetBeam describes the Strobe mode on the RRT-2 as a "randomizing strobe." That is not quite correct – it is in fact an oscillating strobe that switches between four distinct strobe frequencies very quickly. Each strobe frequency last ~0.5 secs, and they loop in continuous repeat, starting with the highest frequency. Here's what a 4 sec trace looks like:






The light comes on in a very fast (and very annoying) 21.8 Hz strobe, followed by a just slightly less annoying 15.2 Hz, and then a 6.6 Hz and 5.5 Hz strobe. As I mentioned, each frequency lasts for about 0.5 secs, and then the whole thing repeats.

I am not really sure of the point of this. :thinking: Perhaps the reasoning is that by rapidly oscillating between four difference frequencies, the strobe is more disorienting? Personally, I doubt you could easily steel yourself against a constant strobe in the 15-20Hz range. I will leave it to your judgment as to how "tactical" this innovation is. :tinfoil: Is it "random"? No. Is it really, really annoying? You bet. :green: 

*No PWM (Pulse-Width-Modulation)*

I was unable to detect any signs of PWM, and so must conclude that the RRT-2 doesn't use PWM to create its lower output modes. That would be consistent with the relatively bright Lo mode on the light (i.e. you typically need PWM to get down to really low outputs). I understand from Tohuwabohu's posts here CPF that the light is PFM (i.e. pulse-frequency-modulated) rather than classic current-controlled, but I don't have any other specifics. 

*Testing Method:* All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for the extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

Throw values are the square-root of lux measurements taken at 1 meter from the lens, using a light meter.

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*
















As you can see, the RRT-2 is more of a thrower than other multi-purpose lights in this size (e.g. JetBeam Jet-III M, Olight M20, NiteCore SR3 + 18650 tube) – but not hugely so. Obviously, throw can't compare to the dedicated modern throwers with bigger reflectors, like the Tiablo A10-G.

Overall max output on the RRT-2 is certainly very respectable for a multi-power R2-based light (i.e. about the same as the Quark 123-2 and Olight M20, on all batteries). But of course, the dedicated 1xLi-ion lights can potentially exceed it.

Min output is brighter than most of the other defined-output lights.

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*




































Runtime performance is generally quite good across the board. When matched for output, the RRT-2 can generally out-compete the continuously-variable competition (especially the older IBS-based lights). But relative to the defined-output group lights (many of which are current-controlled), it is really about an average performer.

Runtime pattern on 1x18650 and 2xCR123A is a little unusual once the light drops out of regulation. Normally on 18650, you get either an abrupt shut-down when the battery protection circuit is tripped, or a long decreasing output and “moon mode” phase. In the case of the RRT-2, the light appears to drop to a new regulated Med level for a short period of time before cutting out. 

On 2xCR123A, the light appears to repeatedly attempt to return to a higher output, leading to rapidly switching output levels and quicker exhaustion of the batteries. :shrug: This is different from the low-voltage warning signal on the early ITP C6 and Olight M20 lights shown in the traces above (a feature I believe has since been removed from both lights).

*Potential Issues*

Being a new interface, the switching control ring may not suit all users. But I personally find it has the best feel among the three recent lights I’ve tested with a similar feature (i.e. compared to the EagleTac M2XC4 and NiteCore SR3).

Low mode is not as low as most other defined-output or continuously-variable lights.

Mode sequence is a bit odd, placing the strobe mode after the Lo mode (instead of after the Hi mode), and placing the standby mode after strobe (i.e. have to enter strobe before accessing standby?).

Runtime pattern is a little unusual on CR123A, once the light drops out of regulation.

No anti-roll features.

*General Observations*

The RRT-2 Raptor is JetBeam’s offering in the new "one-ring-to-rule-them-all" world of flashlight design. I find it interesting to see how each maker has implemented the idea of a rotating control ring. JetBeam’s ring design has the best "hand feel" to me (i.e. best combination of resistance and detents). It is also the easiest to figure out where you are (i.e. good surface markings). Like Goldilocks, I find the physical implementation of RRT-2 control ring to be just about right. 

What I don’t quite get is the sequence. :thinking: Why would you want to access strobe right after the lowest mode? And why would you put strobe between the standby mode and the constant output modes? A more sensible sequence in my mind would be Standby / Lo / Mid / Hi / Strobe (or the reverse order, if you prefer) - much like the EagleTac M2-series lights. _UPDATE: thanks to a suggestion from CPFer gilly, I've discovered you can easily skip over the strobe mode by twisting the ring quickly. There is a ~120ms delay in the activation of each mode, so that seems to give you enough time to make it without seeing a strobe._

I am also not really clear on the advantage of this oscillating strobe sequence. I suspect constant strobe in the 10-20Hz range would be annoying enough for "tactical" use, but I'll leave that one to the experts to discuss. Given the trend toward ever-increasing :green: stobes, can I make a plea for someone to bring back the slow frequency blinking-style beacon strobe? I realize that this may not be the light for it, but I think "tactical" strobe is getting a bit over-done.

The lack of a true low mode may be disappointing to some, but I don’t personally find it to be too big a drawback here. Although nice to have, I never really understood the exclusive bundling of really low modes on "thrower" lights (e.g. RaidFire Spear ). To me, it makes more sense to have a couple of battery-saving medium modes to extend runtime while keeping decent throw. But if a low mode is important to you on a light like this, you will need to look elsewhere.

I like the fact that the RRT-2 takes all possible battery configurations (i.e. 2xCR123A, 2xRCR, 1x18650). And with consistent output levels and regulated runtime patterns on each battery source. :thumbsup: Dedicated 18650-only lights may be capable of a bit more output, but you loose the flexibility to use primaries in a pinch.

Bottom line, the RRT-2 has a lot of nice touches. It also has excellent build quality - JetBeam has really managed to impress me with how solid their lights feel lately. But as always, what matters is whether or not it has the right combination of features and performance for you.
_
P.S.: I have justed tested them, and the Olight diffuser and filter kits for the Olight M20 are a perfect fit on the RRT-2. :twothumbs

P.P.S: Unlike many of the recent competition, the RRT-2 seems to be able to handle flat-top 18650 cells. :thumbsup: This is becoming an issue as more users begin to switch to the higher capacity protected 2600mAh cells (which lack the standard button top)._

_*UPDATE SEPT 27, 2011:* JetBeam has released a new series of RRT lights, with a continuously-variable interface. Please seen my recent RRT-21 and RRT-15 review for more info._


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## DM51 (Jul 24, 2009)

Very thorough, as always!

JetBeam build quality always seems good, which is reassuring, however maybe the UI, standby mode and strobe need some re-thinking here. In standby mode it would be too easy to think the light had been properly turned off, and the multi-frequency strobe sounds a bit of a dog's breakfast to me...

Moving to the Reviews section.


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## chaosmagnet (Jul 24, 2009)

Another great review, selfbuilt. Thanks!


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## nanotech17 (Jul 24, 2009)

selfbuilt,
aren't you sleepy


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## selfbuilt (Jul 24, 2009)

DM51 said:


> JetBeam build quality always seems good, which is reassuring, however maybe the UI, standby mode and strobe need some re-thinking here. In standby mode it would be too easy to think the light had been properly turned off, and the multi-frequency strobe sounds a bit of a dog's breakfast to me...


Thanks David.

Your comment about Standby just prompted me to add a point to the review - to their credit, JetBeam does give a strong warning in the manual that the Standby mode should only be used as a temporary off, since it continues to draw current. Although I find the manual lacks detail on the specs of the light, this is one area where they were indeed proactive and up-front. :thumbsup:



nanotech17 said:


> selfbuilt,
> aren't you sleepy


That is why the review got posted this morning ... I wrote it last night in bed, but was too :sleepy: to proofread it before nodding off.


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## DimeRazorback (Jul 24, 2009)

Thanks for the great review!

:thumbsup:


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## strinq (Jul 24, 2009)

Another good one man.


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## lightmyway (Jul 24, 2009)

I was eagerly awaiting your review of the Raptor,but could,t wait so i ordered one a few weeks ago.
Your review as always excellent,I liked Just about everything about this light except it does not have a antiroll feature,so i made my first mod to this light using a solarforce tailcap L2-S4 which provides antiroll a lanyard hole and ability to tailstand.Now its just about perfect.


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## phantom23 (Jul 24, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> Output modes are controlled by a stainless steel ring below the head.
> (...)
> The lack of a true low mode may be disappointing to some, but I don’t personally find it to be too big a drawback here.



Ring doesn't look like SS, prototype had shiny SS ring, production version has cheap alu (for me it feels like plastic:sick2. And it's too close to the back of the flashlight, I don't have big hands but I need to crook my fingers to reach it (closer to head would be better, my filgers touch "High-Mid-Low-Strobe-Standby" markings.

And true low is very nice feature, not always you have many flashlights with you, or you just don't want turn them on and than low mode is very useful. I have Spear as well and I use it more on low mode than on high. Thrower beam is not annoying and Raptor is even less focused (wider beam+less intensive hotspot).

PS. I.B.S. interface was the best (UI itself, not efficiency), no problem with modes you don't like:thumbsup:


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## Incidentalist (Jul 24, 2009)

Nice review of a nice light. :thumbsup:

I have to pretty much agree with you on most points. I hadn't done any tests to determine if there was battery draw with the light only turned off by switching to standby, but I had assumed so. I am glad that you confirmed that.

My only real beef is, like you, with the sequence of modes. Blech. :thumbsdow

I would love this, or another, Raptor that offered the IBS for the 4 outputs. That would be the best of both worlds and I know I wouldn't be the only one chomping at the bit for such a light. Please JetBeam?


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## selfbuilt (Jul 24, 2009)

lightmyway said:


> I liked Just about everything about this light except it does not have a antiroll feature,so i made my first mod to this light using a solarforce tailcap L2-S4 which provides antiroll a lanyard hole and ability to tailstand.Now its just about perfect.


A good point - the light does roll easily. 



phantom23 said:


> Ring doesn't look like SS, prototype had shiny SS ring, production version has cheap alu (for me it feels like plastic:sick2. And it's too close to the back of the flashlight, I don't have big hands but I need to crook my fingers to reach it (closer to head would be better, my filgers touch "High-Mid-Low-Strobe-Standby" markings.


Ooops - yes of course, the control ring is indeed aluminum (sorry for SS refs in the review - I have just fixed them). As for the ergonomics, I agree that slightly higher up the head might be better for my size hands as well - but I find the current location comfortable enough.



> And true low is very nice feature, not always you have many flashlights with you, or you just don't want turn them on and than low mode is very useful. I have Spear as well and I use it more on low mode than on high. Thrower beam is not annoying and Raptor is even less focused (wider beam+less intensive hotspot). PS. I.B.S. interface was the best (UI itself, not efficiency), no problem with modes you don't like:thumbsup:


I agree with both points - a true low is a very nice feature, and I personally quite like the original IBS interface. 

My point is just that not everyone requires/wants those features in this sort of light, so I can see it fitting in with a certain niche. For a general purpose light, I always recommend one with the true low. And unlike the IBS interface, this is a flashlight you could hand to anyone any they would immediately figure out how to change modes. I would just like to see the mode sequence on the ring make more sense. 



Incidentalist said:


> I would love this, or another, Raptor that offered the IBS for the 4 outputs. That would be the best of both worlds and I know I wouldn't be the only one chomping at the bit for such a light. Please JetBeam?


That's an interesting idea ... something like Standby followed by 4 modes (e.g. labeled I - II - II - IV), where each of the four modes could be set through an IBS interface through the tailcap. Light could come by default pre-set with an increasing level of output and maybe strobe at the end for the four outputs. That way, it work work well for those who don't want to re-program their light, but advanced users could customize each mode to their liking.

Yeah, I like the sounds of that interface. :thumbsup:


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## HKJ (Jul 24, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> *"Standby"*
> 
> The "standby" mode is like the "off" position of the ring on the EagleTac M2 lights – when in this position, no light is produced. However, on both lights, current is still being drawn to allow the circuit to respond to a change in the state of the ring. Unless the switch is clicked off or the current path is broken by locking out some part of the light, this "standby" mode will continue to draw power. As such, the name "standby" is more appropriate than off.



I will just add a warning to the you statement about standby mode: 
The current draw is rather high (2mA), it will empty a set of CR123 batteries in about one month!





selfbuilt said:


> *"Randomizing Strobe"*
> 
> JetBeam describes the Strobe mode on the RRT-2 as a "randomizing strobe." That is not quite correct – it is in fact an oscillating strobe that switches between four distinct strobe frequencies very quickly. Each strobe frequency last ~0.5 secs, and they loop in continuous repeat, starting with the highest frequency. Here's what a 4 sec trace looks like:



In my (Danish) review, I got slightly different frequencies, i.e. there are probably some variation between lights. Did you miss the 20us flash that comes 120ms before the light comes on, when activated by the switch. Or is the reason for these differences that JetBeam updated the light?


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## selfbuilt (Jul 24, 2009)

HKJ said:


> I will just add a warning to the you statement about standby mode:
> The current draw is rather high (2mA), it will empty a set of CR123 batteries in about one month!


Thanks HKJ - that does seem rather high for standby, I will add a note to the review.



> In my (Danish) review, I got slightly different frequencies, i.e. there are probably some variation between lights. Did you miss the 20us flash that comes 120ms before the light comes on, when activated by the switch. Or is the reason for these differences that JetBeam updated the light?


I just checked your review (nice job, BTW - might have saved me some time if I had seen it before ). I see you got 5.2 Hz, 6.2 Hz, 14.3 Hz and 20 Hz for the strobe modes (I presume in reverse sequence?). Since each of those values are only 5-8% different from mine, I suspect it's probably just natural variation between our samples or our respective testing beds (mine is a simple sound card oscilloscope, so may not be as accurate).

And good point about the 20us flash and delay. I hadn't noticed that - it is present on all modes, including Standby (i.e. you will see just the flash when pressing the switch). I will add a point to the review.


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## Kenpcfl (Jul 24, 2009)

Thanks for the great review. I have this light, and also have ordered the titanium version.

Question: If standby is draining the batts, is that also true if the selector ring is left in lo, med or high? And, how do you turn the light off to where it will not drain the batts?


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## berry580 (Jul 24, 2009)

Its one quality review you have up there!!!
I agree with you Selfbuilt on the strobe thing.
I've never heard of ANYONE who has found the strobe function to be useful. All users (policemen) that I've heard from about their experience with the torch's strobe function is ZERO, i.e. they don't use it

One of the policemen who claims to have trained with the SWATs (one of the most respectable tactical units), and he said they ain't even taught to use these strobe features.

So who uses them? The torch salesmen?


But there's one thing that I think you may have overlooked.
That piece of debris inside the head. That is CLEARLY is manufacture defect. Even if it doesn't affect the beam now, chances are it will one day as it gets loose.
IMO, that light unit shouldn't have passed the QC. Was the QC implemented at all? Or did the JB people stuck the sticker on it anyway after the toilet break?


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## HKJ (Jul 24, 2009)

Kenpcfl said:


> Question: If standby is draining the batts, is that also true if the selector ring is left in lo, med or high? And, how do you turn the light off to where it will not drain the batts?



The drain is only when the ring is on "Standby" and the end switch is on, turn the end switch off and there is no drain.


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## berry580 (Jul 24, 2009)

"_*Reviewer's Note: *The RRT-2 Raptor was provided for review by JetBeam. Please see their website for more info."

_The ironic thing is that, I think your review has more info than their website.
I'm not trying to have a go at them, but the thing is, I found that most of the light manufacturer/dealer's officials websites always has less info than good reviews like ones that selfbuilt write.

I think that's one of the reason why i've bookmarked selfbuild's review page, and not those official website's page


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## rantanplan (Jul 24, 2009)

Nice review :twothumbs ... nice light.



berry580 said:


> [...]
> IMO, that light unit shouldn't have passed the QC. Was the QC implemented at all? Or did the JB people stuck the sticker on it anyway after the toilet break?



Yeah, Jetbeams QC sucks  ... my RRT-2 has only one flaw, a Cree with a misaligned die. Result is the ugly crescent halo around the hotspot. Ok, it is primarily Crees fault, but wtf is it so difficult to have a 2 second long look at each LED before passing them through to the assembly staff ... :thumbsdow


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## selfbuilt (Jul 24, 2009)

berry580 said:


> But there's one thing that I think you may have overlooked.
> That piece of debris inside the head. That is CLEARLY is manufacture defect. Even if it doesn't affect the beam now, chances are it will one day as it gets loose.
> IMO, that light unit shouldn't have passed the QC.


I'm glad you brought that up - I realize I wasn't clear in my original statement, so I've just modified it.

What you are looking at is not the actual defect - it is a reflection and magnification of it. Just like the blow-up reflection of the yellow die from the emitter, that little triangular blip moves and changes shape as you move the light around (i.e. become greatly elongated at some angles, and disappears at others angles). In essence, what you are seeing is a distorted blow-up of a very slight defect in the reflector near the emitter (so slight, I can't see it without a magnifying glass)

I would try to get a better shot, but I can't seem to get the bezel ring off (my snap-ring pliers keep slipping, and am I'm shredding my mouse pad to no effect ). Thanks for calling my attention back to my description of it. 



berry580 said:


> The ironic thing is that, I think your review has more info than their website.




I would point out the website has a lot more info than the manual does. At a minimum, I think all manuals should at least list the light specs (including what batteries are supported).


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## LapinMalin (Jul 24, 2009)

Great review.
Is the focus adjustable as advertised on jetbeam site ?


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## selfbuilt (Jul 24, 2009)

LapinMalin said:


> Great review.
> Is the focus adjustable as advertised on jetbeam site ?


Yes, something else I meant to mention but forgot. 

The beam is somewhat focusable - you can twist the head region separately from the section with the output mode labels. In practice, all this does is let you defocus the beam slightly, as the range is limited. Helpful to allow you to achieve the best possible focus, but not much else. 

Note that mine came default at what I determined to be the best focus. So either JB is setting these up correctly, or my sample happens to be very lucky.


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## Tohuwabohu (Jul 24, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> The light comes on in a very fast (and very annoying) 21.8 Hz strobe, followed by a just slightly less annoying 15.2 Hz, and then a 6.6 Hz and 5.5 Hz strobe. As I mentioned, each frequency lasts for about 0.5 secs, and then the whole thing repeats.


Strobe is a bit slower on my RRT-2:
18.7Hz, 13.2Hz, 5.7Hz and 4.8Hz, complete cycle 2.4s.
Same frequency with 2xRCR123 and 1x18650.



> I was unable to detect any signs of PWM, and so must conclude that the RRT-2 doesn't use PWM to create its lower output modes. That would be consistent with the relatively bright Lo mode on the light (i.e. you typically need PWM to get down to really low outputs). I understand from Tohuwabohu's posts here CPF that the light is PFM (i.e. pulse-frequency-modulated) rather than classic current-controlled, but I don't have any other specifics.


There are some scope graphs (all levels with 1x18650 and 2xRCR123) in my RRT-2 photo album in the Messerforum.net.
I took these graphs with fully charged batteries.
When the light drops out of regulation on high mode with a 18650 battery my scope shows a flat line.


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## phantom23 (Jul 24, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> My point is just that not everyone requires/wants those features in this sort of light, so I can see it fitting in with a certain niche. For a general purpose light, I always recommend one with the true low.



This sort of light? RRT-1 is real thrower, not RRT-2! It throws nice indees but it's more like medium general purpose light that's why it needs true low mode even more! OP reflector with 10+ kluxes would be nice too.



selfbuilt said:


> That's an interesting idea ... something like Standby followed by 4 modes (e.g. labeled I - II - II - IV), where each of the four modes could be set through an IBS interface through the tailcap.


+10000000000000000000 Adjustable from 2-240 lumens, low Vf XR-E, SS ring (current one feels crappy) and we have perfect flashlight


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## HKJ (Jul 24, 2009)

Tohuwabohu said:


> There are some scope graphs (all levels with 1x18650 and 2xRCR123) in my RRT-2 photo album in the Messerforum.net.
> I took these graphs with fully charged batteries.
> When the light drops out of regulation on high mode with a 18650 battery my scope shows a flat line.



These curves look very close to my measurements:







The frequency is high enough to not have any impact on practical use.


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## Hitthespot (Jul 24, 2009)

Another great job Eric. I really like the looks of the Jetbeams and this one is no exception. It looks like this light has no clip which I like on a light this size. I also love the S.S. at both ends. I like the three battery options, and I agree with you, I don't need a real dim low on a light this size. I don't understand the reason for the Standby mode and see no usefull purpose for it?

I have been trying to refrain from purchasing every new light that comes out, especially when their all Q5 or R2's. I mean how many do you need. BUT, Jetbeam is really tempting me.

Thanks again for the incredible amount of information and your on going contributions.

Bill


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## selfbuilt (Jul 24, 2009)

Tohuwabohu said:


> There are some scope graphs (all levels with 1x18650 and 2xRCR123) in my RRT-2 photo album in the Messerforum.net.
> I took these graphs with fully charged batteries.
> When the light drops out of regulation on high mode with a 18650 battery my scope shows a flat line.





HKJ said:


> These curves look very close to my measurements:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the detailed scope shots guys. :thumbsup: I agree, the freq is high enough to not be an issue (i.e. 25-100 KHz range, if I'm reading those scales right).



phantom23 said:


> This sort of light? RRT-1 is real thrower, not RRT-2! It throws nice indees but it's more like medium general purpose light that's why it needs true low mode even more! OP reflector with 10+ kluxes would be nice too.


Fair enough. I may be biased by the fact that I've been here too long - I can recall when 15K lux @1m was a real thrower! 



Hitthespot said:


> I don't understand the reason for the Standby mode and see no usefull purpose for it?


My guess is so that you can temporarily turn off the light without having to switch hand-positions (i.e. for standard underhand carry, to turn off you normally need to flip it around for thumb or index finger tailcap press). But this is all the more reason why it doesn't belong at the end of the sequence past strobe - it forces you to strobe everyone before going into standby! This renders it rather pointless - unless you intend to always people strobe before hiding in the dark (hmmm ... maybe not such a bad idea afterall ).


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## Gryffin (Jul 24, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> But this is all the more reason why it doesn't belong at the end of the sequence past strobe - it forces you to strobe everyone before going into standby! This renders it rather pointless…



ARGH!!!! 

This is the sort of thing that frustrates me to no end about these high-end flashlights: so many come SO close to an ideal UI, but botch it up with something dumb like this. :shakehead


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## pockets (Jul 24, 2009)

Wow! you guys are making me feel terrible about purchasing an RRT-2. I didn't realize it had so many poor features. Before I read this thread I actually liked it.


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## Zeruel (Jul 24, 2009)

I come this close to getting it. Guess the mode sequence is a deal breaker. Strobe is a no-no in my dictionary unless it's hidden like NDI/Nex or even in the other Jetbeam models (triple click).


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## Hitthespot (Jul 24, 2009)

pockets said:


> Wow! you guys are making me feel terrible about purchasing an RRT-2. I didn't realize it had so many poor features. Before I read this thread I actually liked it.


 
It looks like a great light. No need to feel terrible. Is a matter of fact congrats! Although I don't care for the standby mode I may purchase this light myself. The standby mode looks like a feature you never have to use if you don't want to.

Bill


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## pockets (Jul 24, 2009)

I can understand the mode sequence could be better but, when I'm out in the field sometimes I can forget(let's see do I triple click or click then click and hold?). This is easier for me(I'm old and I forget things). Plus I wanted a light that could throw far enough to see what kind of animal was a hundred yards in front of me and still small enough to holster-edc. I thought the head on the RRT-1 was too big to carry comfortably. By the way, I still like it!


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## selfbuilt (Jul 24, 2009)

pockets said:


> Wow! you guys are making me feel terrible about purchasing an RRT-2. I didn't realize it had so many poor features. Before I read this thread I actually liked it.





Hitthespot said:


> It looks like a great light. No need to feel terrible. Is a matter of fact congrats! Although I don't care for the standby mode I may purchase this light myself. The standby mode looks like a feature you never have to use if you don't want to.


LOL, I guess CPFers are an exacting bunch.  

But Hitthespot put it well - there's no need real need to use Standby, so you can safely ignore both it and Strobe. Just stick with the Hi - Med - Lo modes and you will be fine. 

The light certainly does everything it was advertised to do. Build quality is top notch on my sample, and the performance is very good for the output. The consistent output levels on different battery sources - and the wide multi-power input range - are also pluses in my book. :thumbsup:


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## Chao (Jul 24, 2009)

Thanks for the nice review as always:thumbsup:


selfbuilt said:


> Observant viewers will note the apparent speck of debris or manufacturing defect on the smooth reflector (roughly 4 o'clock position). _Please note that this is actually very misleading in the photo - it is a reflection of a much smaller defect, located closer to the emitter (i.e. it is being magnified by the angle, just as the yellow phosphor die of the emitter is being picked up and magnified by the reflector)._ :shrug:. Nothing you can do about it, and it doesn't seem to affect the beam.



My RRT-2 has same situation, looks like a small defect in the side of my RRT-2 emitter dome!


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## black bolt (Jul 25, 2009)

Does the Jetbeam Jet-III M tailcap fit on the RRT-2 body? :thinking:


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## pockets (Jul 25, 2009)

Yes it fits but not flush, there's a gap. I think it looks good though and I think it will help keep it from turning on accidentally in my holster.


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## gilly (Jul 25, 2009)

Selfbuilt - as always, magnificent work. Many thanks...

I concur with many of you who would like a lower low mode. I love my Jet III-M low of ~ .2 lumens and the feeling of confidence that it will run for a week+ if the S--t really hits the fan (lost in a cave while splunking maybe)... Although the present low mode, which will run for the better part of a day, is very useful and doesn't seem too overpowering. The 4 x IBS settable modes accessed by the ring would be outstanding indeed!! I don't have any problems with the ring being aluminum - feels great to me. 

I got my RRT-2 about 6 weeks ago and it has become the light I reach for the most while at home. (live in the country in New England with a 5-acre field behind the house and 500+ acres of forest around the house). The build quality is just unbelievable and this light is just plain SATISFYING to hold in the hand. I find the UI to be not-perfect, but workable. You quickly learn to, when picking up the light (without looking at the markings), rotate it counter-clockwise fully (to high), then click back clockwise to your preferred setting before clicking it on. I agree with SB that the ring is smooth and very user-friendly with very distinct detents. I don't have an SR3 or M2 to compare it to, but I like the ring very much. After reading the commentary above on the placement of the Standby Mode AFTER the Strobe, I did a simple test a few times. From Low mode(light on), holding the light underhand and using my thumb and index finger, I can EASILY and REPEATEDLY move from Low THROUGH Strobe quickly WITHOUT ACTIVATING IT to Standby (2 'clicks' on the ring). Conversely, I can then EASILY roll from Standby and back to Low (through Strobe) quickly and not activate Strobe. The positive detents on the ring and its smooth traversement make this simple to do. So, once you know your sequence on the ring, Strobe can essentially be ignored without much effort!!

As for the absence of anti-roll and a clip or lanyard... I am fond of clips AND lanyards, so am looking forward to Flavio getting in the SS crenenlated tailcap bezels (same as on Jet III - M) into which a lanyard can be threaded. I can live w/o the anti-roll - and the lanyard should help to some degree once it is attached. This tail bezel will also allow the RRT-2 to tailstand!

When you get right down to it, two of the biggest factors that make us enjoy a light are LOOKS and FEEL. The RRT-2 HAS BOTH OF THESE QUALITIES IN SPADES!!! And as for performance - it is no slouch...

So - for those of you who are holding off on this SUPERBLY made light which feels second to NONE in the hand..........don't hold off!! You are doing yourselves a great injustice as FLASHAHOLICS!! 

For you tactical guys out there - I'm a 14-year LEO who works day shift. However, I had to pull a night shift 2 weeks ago and carried my RRT-2 and used it on about 20 motor vehicle stops. Used an empty collapsible baton holster to carry it on my belt (carried the RRT-2 bezel up) which worked fine. (obviously would prefer bezel down for a permanent holster). The Raptor worked SUPERBLY as my duty light that evening. No problems whatsoever.

Get one! I really don't feel you will regret it!

:thumbsup:


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## selfbuilt (Jul 25, 2009)

black bolt said:


> Does the Jetbeam Jet-III M tailcap fit on the RRT-2 body? :thinking:





pockets said:


> Yes it fits but not flush, there's a gap. I think it looks good though and I think it will help keep it from turning on accidentally in my holster.


Just tried mine (first gen Jet-III M), and it won't screw down past the the first thread of the RRT-2 body. There seems to be a slight thread mismatch. But it's quite possible that newer Jet-III M tailcaps would fit (e.g. my M1X fits perfectly). 



gilly said:


> After reading the commentary above on the placement of the Standby Mode AFTER the Strobe, I did a simple test a few times. From Low mode(light on), holding the light underhand and using my thumb and index finger, I can EASILY and REPEATEDLY move from Low THROUGH Strobe quickly WITHOUT ACTIVATING IT to Standby (2 'clicks' on the ring). Conversely, I can then EASILY roll from Standby and back to Low (through Strobe) quickly and not activate Strobe. The positive detents on the ring and its smooth traversement make this simple to do. So, once you know your sequence on the ring, Strobe can essentially be ignored without much effort!!


Yes, I see what you mean - I've practiced it a bit, and find I too can skip over strobe with enough speed, either direction. This is presumably due to 120ms delay in activation of each mode - twist fast enough, and you won't see it. 

With a bit of practice, I found that I quickly became proficient in stopping in time for Lo when coming out of standby. Good find! :thumbsup:



> When you get right down to it, two of the biggest factors that make us enjoy a light are LOOKS and FEEL. The RRT-2 HAS BOTH OF THESE QUALITIES IN SPADES!!! And as for performance - it is no slouch...


+1. I too am a fan of the look and hand feel of the light.


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## phantom23 (Jul 26, 2009)

I noticed one thing. When I turn it on (using switch) on 'Standby' mode - blinks once. It's not bright (>1lm) but noticeable:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVf0C5zzLu8


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## ginopr82 (Jul 27, 2009)

Can someone tell me which AW 18650 battery to buy for my RRT-2. 2200mah or the 2400mah? Where can I buy these AW brand batteries? I cant find them anywhere!


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## DM51 (Jul 27, 2009)

ginopr82 said:


> Can someone tell me which AW 18650 battery to buy for my RRT-2. 2200mah or the 2400mah? Where can I buy these AW brand batteries? I cant find them anywhere!


Welcome to CPF, ginopr82.

We have a separate Batteries sub-forum for battery questions, but I'll answer your question briefly: either the AW 2,200 or 2,600 mAh versions will do fine. You'll get more run-time with the 2,600 mAh ones as they have more capacity, so they are worth it if you have the extra $$. You can get AW batteries here.


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## ginopr82 (Jul 28, 2009)

Hello! I am a newbie. I have a question. What is this about it being a good thrower mean? Does it mean it throws the light beam to a far distance but does not do great in close range. I will mainly be using it for close distance and probably with the Adjustable focus set a little wide so I get a better close distance lighting. I just purchased this flashlight and I'm waiting for it to arrive in the mail. I know it's a little late to be asking but if it does horrible close distance I don't want to open it so that I can return it. Please help?


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## DM51 (Jul 29, 2009)

A "throw" light concentrates maximum output into a narrow beam, so the light reaches out a long way. A "flood" light spreads out over a wide angle, which is good for general illumination at close distances, but as the output is widely spread, objects at distance are less well lit. Most lights here will be a compromise between throw and flood, but some place more emphasis on one than the other.

You can add a detachable diffuser to some throw lights, but you can't convert a flood beam to throw without modifying the light.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 29, 2009)

ginopr82 said:


> Hello! I am a newbie. I have a question. What is this about it being a good thrower mean? Does it mean it throws the light beam to a far distance but does not do great in close range. I will mainly be using it for close distance and probably with the Adjustable focus set a little wide so I get a better close distance lighting. I just purchased this flashlight and I'm waiting for it to arrive in the mail. I know it's a little late to be asking but if it does horrible close distance I don't want to open it so that I can return it. Please help?


Thanks DM51 for jumping in with the descriptions (and battery info).

As for whether the RRT-2 will be acceptable up-close tasks, I think it will be ok. With the the reflector slightly defocused, the overall beam pattern will be pretty similar to the "typical" 2xCR123A lights with regular size heads (e.g. Jet-III M, Olight M20, etc.). But of course, even the slim-head lights (e.g. Fenix PD30, Olight I20/T20, etc.) all throw a considerable amount. As such, I agree with DM51 - if you want a true "floody" light, you need to go with an detachable diffuser that fits it.

And good news - I just tested it, and the Olight M20 diffuser/filters are a perfect fit for the RRT-2!  You can pick these up at a number of online vendors, should you find you want a more diffuse beam.


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## Jeffdau (Jul 30, 2009)

Hey guys im new to the whole flashlight scene, but this light has really caught my eye. Im looking for a good thrower thats fairly bright. Will this light be good for me?


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## LowFlux (Jul 31, 2009)

*Re: JetBeam RRT-2 Raptor*



Jeffdau said:


> Hey guys im new to the whole flashlight scene, but this light has really caught my eye. Im looking for a good thrower thats fairly bright. Will this light be good for me?


Look no further.

A lot of people hate on this light because it's whitewall pictures ringy; but that is the trade off for having a smooth deep reflector for throwing. You do not notice the rings when using it outdoors.

This light has been my favorite go-to light since I received it; and gathers a lot of compliments from non-flashaholics.

Still deciding if I buy the Ti-Raptor or a new Busse... :sick2: :mecry:


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## Jeffdau (Jul 31, 2009)

*Re: JetBeam RRT-2 Raptor*



LowFlux said:


> Look no further.
> 
> A lot of people hate on this light because it's whitewall pictures ringy; but that is the trade off for having a smooth deep reflector for throwing. You do not notice the rings when using it outdoors.
> 
> ...



Well i just ordered it from bugoutgear. And now i will be just counting down the days till it gets here:twothumbs 

Off topic but ive searched; can someone pm a list of the reputable online dealers, ive been having trouble finding them.


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## Hitthespot (Jul 31, 2009)

*Re: JetBeam RRT-2 Raptor*

Removed.


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## Bushman5 (Jul 31, 2009)

any chance of a youtube vid of the strobe? this sounds like another light i need to get!


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## Patriot (Jul 31, 2009)

Great review as always Selfbuilt.


I recently received my tail standing stainless bezel for my RPT-1 so I just thought I'd post it here for people to see. Installation was easy and the only tool being needed was a mouse pad to crack loose the stock ring. It tail stands very nicely now.


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## Bushman5 (Jul 31, 2009)

^ where did you get the tail bezel from? me likey!


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## Patriot (Jul 31, 2009)

BOG of course. 

For a long time I didn't hold tailstanding lights in high regard but I will say that I tend to tailstand my lights fairly often. This in a nice bonus for the light.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 31, 2009)

Bushman5 said:


> any chance of a youtube vid of the strobe? this sounds like another light i need to get!


Hmmm, not sure how well that would work - the max strobe frequencies are nearly as high as a typical frame rate, and the auto-compensation of the caemera would obscure a lot. Suffice it to say it's weird looking. :shrug:



Patriot said:


> For a long time I didn't hold tailstanding lights in high regard but I will say that I tend to tailstand my lights fairly often. This in a nice bonus for the light.


Thanks for sharing Patriot. Makes sense that it would fit, since the Jet-III M tailcap (for which the crenelated tailcap ring was created, IIRC) is comparable in dimensions. Not sure why they switched to the new lower profile ring on the M1X and RRT-2, but I also like the tailstanding option.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 28, 2009)

Just an update:

I see the issue of using the higher capacity protected 2600mAh cells (which lack the standard button top) is coming up more frequently now. A lot of the recent lights I've reviewed have a form of physical reverse polarity protection that prevents you from using flat-top cells (e.g. EagleTac T100C2, T20C2, and NiteCore SR3). I have updated those reviews with a comment under Potential Issues, and will make a point to comment on this on all future reviews.

In this case, I am happy to report that the RRT-2 seems to be able to handle flat-top 18650 cells. :thumbsup: The contact post in the center of head reaches far enough forward to make contact.


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## octaf (Sep 4, 2009)

Anybody know what's the mechanism connecting the gold-ish LE & the Titanium head together? 

Is it screw type, or some kind of glue, or combination of boths? 

I assume that it has the same structure as the original aluminum model.


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## octaf (Sep 7, 2009)

Anyone, please ?

Similar questions as the post right above.

How is the yellow LE is connected to the head unit?

Is the LE removable ?

Actually, the screw on the LE unit is connected to the body. So how strong is the overall structure of this light?


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## bondr006 (Sep 7, 2009)

@ octaf. Check this out. I think you will find your answer here. :thumbsup:


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## octaf (Sep 7, 2009)

bondr006 said:


> @ octaf. Check this out. I think you will find your answer here. :thumbsup:


 
Thank you, bondr006. :wave:

Now I've got a glimpse of how this light is built in terms of the structure.

Upper head holds bezel, lens & reflector.
Lower head holds LE with 2 vertical screws.
upper head to lower head is Ti to Ti screw joint.
lower head to body is brass LE held by Ti head to Ti body screw joint.

And the screws of Jet3 looks bigger & more heavy duty than that of RRT2 or TC-R3.

So, my guess is , this TC-R3 or RRT-2 is not as solid as Jet3pro (Ti), or Jet3M (Ti), in terms of the structure & the building mechanism.


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## zmf49 (Nov 29, 2009)

as regards "problem" with order of light which comes in when you use ring on my light the order is H-M-L-S-SB,WHERE IS PROBLEM use tail switch to turn on light at low then just use ring to go higher or strobe it just seems very picky of folk to diss torch because of this or have jetbeam sorted order of light on later models?
zmf49


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## berry580 (Nov 30, 2009)

a little off topic, but my TC-R3 throws peak around 10K lux @ 1m, that's significantly less than RRT-2, does this sound right?


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## HKJ (Nov 30, 2009)

berry580 said:


> a little off topic, but my TC-R3 throws peak around 10K lux @ 1m, that's significantly less than RRT-2, does this sound right?



It sound right that the TC-R3 has less throw, because the TC-R3 has a OP reflector, the RRT-2 a smooth reflector.


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## berry580 (Nov 30, 2009)

actually the TC-R3 that i got has a SMO reflector, so yes it is ringy.

I know output varies across LEDs, but by an amount enough to cause almost 50% less throw?

update: i just realised that the RRT-2 head is 35mm while TC-R3 is only 32mm. could that explain the big differences?


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## selfbuilt (Nov 30, 2009)

berry580 said:


> I know output varies across LEDs, but by an amount enough to cause almost 50% less throw?
> update: i just realised that the RRT-2 head is 35mm while TC-R3 is only 32mm. could that explain the big differences?


That reflector difference could certainly be part of it. The second point is that light decays over distance by an inverse square law, so you are best to look at the square root differences of raw lux. In this case, that would be 120 (sqrrt of 14,500 lux) and 100 (sqrrt 10,000 lux), which is effectively only a ~16.7% reduction in "throw" for your TC-R3.

In any case, there's a lot of variability between light meters, so the above lux estimates are just approximate to start with. Not to mention the precise focusing of the emitter in the reflector, etc. (in addition to the output range of a given emitter bin).


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## Light11 (Nov 30, 2009)

Than you for that awesome review :twothumbs.got my RRt-2 with an op reflector no rings on the beam...are the newer models updated ?


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## NewTech (Dec 9, 2009)

Light11 said:


> Than you for that awesome review :twothumbs.got my RRt-2 with an op reflector no rings on the beam...are the newer models updated ?



OP reflector ?. Could be new batch ?.
My RRT-2 is SMO reflector.
(got a good deal on Black Friday).

Enjoy your RRT-2.
:twothumbs


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## octaf (Dec 22, 2009)

berry580 said:


> a little off topic, but my TC-R3 throws peak around 10K lux @ 1m, that's significantly less than RRT-2, does this sound right?


 

Head sizes of TC-R3 & RRT-2 are not identical.

They are not interchaneable.

RRT-2 has much bigger & deeper reflector, compared to TR-R3. So, I guess it's only natural that RRT-2 throws farther.


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## crazyzilch (Dec 31, 2009)

My RRT-2 got random delays(up to seconds) when the mode ring was switched from mid to hig. Does this happen on every RRT-2? Or just something wrong with mine?


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## Flucero28 (Jan 2, 2010)

Hello guys, I hope everyone had happy holidays! I am a LE Officer and am looking for a new light for my duty belt. I think I have narrowed my choice down to Three options. I am really leaning towards the Jetbeam RRT-2, however the eagletac T20C2 and the Nitecore SR3 both have me second guessing myself! I am looking for the brightest light of the three with the maximum amount of throw. Im guessing that the eagletac is the brightest of the bunch, but does that mean it will out throw the others? There has to be someone here that owns all three lights that can give some helpful advice as to preference!

I thank you in advance for your help in this stressful matter!


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## selfbuilt (Jan 2, 2010)

Flucero28 said:


> I am really leaning towards the Jetbeam RRT-2, however the eagletac T20C2 and the Nitecore SR3 both have me second guessing myself! I am looking for the brightest light of the three with the maximum amount of throw. Im guessing that the eagletac is the brightest of the bunch, but does that mean it will out throw the others? There has to be someone here that owns all three lights that can give some helpful advice as to preference!


Well, since I've reviewed all three lights, you should be able to find a few answers as to brightness and throw in the individual reviews (check out the link in my sig for a master list of all reviews).  And no, throw and output are not the same - throw is a function of the reflector (i.e. how focussed is the beam), whereas overall output is determined by choice of emitter and how hard it is driven by the circuitry. The reviews will allow you to directly compare throw, output and beam patterns.

Personally, I would think the RRT-2 or T20C2 would make a better duty light (the SR3 isn't as versatile for batteries). You might also want to consider the tried-and-true JetBeam Jet-III M or Olight M20. FYI, the Olight M21 is now out, and I will be reviewing it shortly.

Cheers, and :welcome:


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## Rocketman (Jan 14, 2010)

My Jetbeam RRT-2 Raptor arrived yesterday. The visible construction is perfect, no flaws that I can see. Operation is flawless other than that short delay while the circuit does whatever it does when I engage the switch. The strobe is annoying, wish Jetbeam had just given it a steady strobe and, like most have said, wish they had put the strobe function beyond the standby. Not that I will be using the standby mode.

The O-ring for the head was not installed. It's ok, I just ordered 12 O-rings for the head and 12 for the tailcap. I chose silicone O-rings, was that a good choice?

The reflector is an orange-peel reflector. I suppose that was changed? I much prefer it to a smooth reflector. For me, and OP reflector is perfect except for a light meant for long throw.

Comparing the beam to my Streamlight Polystinger, it looks like the out-the-front lumens is not the 240 advertised, but that is just my guess.

Not a real tough light due to the selector ring but for general use or for someone who will be careful enough with it, it's very nice and I recommend it.


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## JML (Feb 5, 2010)

Rocketman said:


> My Jetbeam RRT-2 Raptor arrived yesterday. The visible construction is perfect, no flaws that I can see. Operation is flawless other than that short delay while the circuit does whatever it does when I engage the switch.


 
Amen! Just got mine (gray HA-III, R2, OP). It's a great light, and one of the best looking and ergonomically friendly lights I've ever handled. In fact, along with the Jet-III Pro ST, it would be hard to imagine a better-made or finer light to use. As far as looks and quality control goes, this light is unsurpassed for a factory product. The anodizing of all the parts matches (better than anything from SureFire), the threads are clean and smooth, the lens and reflector are clean and dust-free, and the internals are cleanly assembled. 

The Olight CR123a two-battery magazine also fits in the RRT-2, with the lanyard tab cut off and smoothed (just as it fits in the Jet-III M and Jet-III ST).

I've retired my SureFire U2 to in-car status in my car's glove compartment (but I have one of my two Jet-III Military lights in the trunk).


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## bthrel (Feb 9, 2010)

Hey guys,

Awesome review and of course because of that I have one on the way as type here.

Question, in the description of the RRT-2, it states

" Built-in intelligent Li-ion rechargeable battery protection circuit."

Does this mean that, taking all precautions about un-protected 18650's listed in the forums, this light will work well/ok with un-protected 18650's? ie: wont over discharge them?

Best Regards

Brian


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## bondr006 (Feb 9, 2010)

Yes, that is what it means. I know they cost more but you can have reliability and peace of mind with protected cells. I have all the JETBeam lights, as well as many others....but I will only use protected cells in them. Up until recently I would only use the AW protected cells, but decided to give the Ultrafire brand a chance. You can get the Ultrafire protected cells for about the same price as the AW unprotected cells.



bthrel said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Awesome review and of course because of that I have one on the way as type here.
> 
> ...


----------



## bthrel (Feb 9, 2010)

Thanks Rob,

I will look into some of the protected cells for sure. Just cant pass up using the ones I salvaged yesterday from a laptop pack.

I already have a RRt-0 and am looking forward to the RRT-2 (should arrive this week)... Guess I will have to get the RRT-3 as well... 

Thanks again

Brian


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## jhc37013 (Feb 14, 2010)

I just got the OD Finish with OP reflector love the light it may well take the place of my U2. This light is built like a tank, selbuilt was right that heat sink is gigantic and makes for a heavy strong feeling light.

Even with the OP reflector it out throws my 200 lumen E2DL by a fairly good margin. I'm glad it uses rechargeable 18650 because the selector ring is so smooth I can't help but sit around and mess with it.

I do have a question mine came with a small brass ring in a plastic baggy can anyone tell me what this is for?

With the OP reflector the beam looks really great no ring really at all, but I will be on the look out for a smooth one but BOG is sold out at the moment.


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## jhc37013 (Feb 14, 2010)

Oh yes I wanted to than ideefixe for this light he was generous to trade me this BNIB for a Jet-III Pro ST BVC, thanks to you again my friend.


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## Frank_Zuccarini (Feb 14, 2010)

*Received my JetBeam RRT-2 Raptor yesterday.*

*It is absolutely WONDERFUL!*


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## HIDblue (May 1, 2010)

Just got my RRT-2 Raptor from BOG. This light just screams quality construction, craftsmanship and design. It's one of those lights that just feels "right" in your hands and has a good heft to it that makes it feel more solid. With almost 3 hours at max brightness on a single 18650 at 240 lumens and battery versatility (CR123, RCR123), what more can you ask for? 

I wasn't sure about the UI selector ring, but after using it for a bit I find that my fondness for it is growing. As others pointed out, there is a slight delay when you soft/half press the clickie for momentary on, but nothing that detracts from the light. 

Mine came with the OP reflector which means a bit less throw, but I'm willing to give up a little throw for a better beam...i.e. absolutely no rings. 

This light was an exchange/upgrade on a defective Jet III-M that I originally purchased and I can definitely say that I prefer the RRT-2 Raptor way more than the Jet III-M...but that's just me. 

We'll see how it holds up to regular use.


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## k594 (May 4, 2010)

i finally broke down and ordered one of these from BOG yesterday, 88 bucks shipped priority i couldn't pass it up! 
looking forward to testing this weekend


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## bthrel (May 6, 2010)

k594 said:


> i finally broke down and ordered one of these from BOG yesterday, 88 bucks shipped priority i couldn't pass it up!
> looking forward to testing this weekend




 Congratulations, your going to love it, its my favorite torch these days.

Cheers

Brian


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## k594 (May 6, 2010)

received it today and it looks flawless! cant wait for the sun to go down so i can play with it :laughing: i ordered from BOG and there description stated it comes w a SMO reflector, mine came with an OP which is a little disappointing sense its not exactly what i ordered, either way the light looks to be real nice, anyone know if i can buy a SMO reflector for this somewhere?


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## k594 (May 7, 2010)

was able to try the light out this evening and i really enjoyed it, the flood/throw was nice and i enjoy the ease of the selector ring.. id still like to track down a smooth reflector for this if i can and try that out as well, overall a great light so far


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## jhc37013 (May 7, 2010)

Glad you like it I find the selector ring a very nice UI probably my favorite and would love a smaller version with 2xcr123, smaller then my Jet M. That would be just a tad bit bigger then my RRT0 with the AA extension tube attached.


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## CPFBiology (Aug 19, 2010)

Rocketman said:


> My Jetbeam RRT-2 Raptor arrived yesterday. The visible construction is perfect, no flaws that I can see. Operation is flawless other than that short delay while the circuit does whatever it does when I engage the switch. The strobe is annoying, wish Jetbeam had just given it a steady strobe and, like most have said, wish they had put the strobe function beyond the standby. Not that I will be using the standby mode.
> 
> The O-ring for the head was not installed. It's ok, I just ordered 12 O-rings for the head and 12 for the tailcap. I chose silicone O-rings, was that a good choice?
> 
> ...



What do you think of the light now? Does the selector ring feel flimsy, or that it could fail at the worst moment?

Do you think it is better to get the JetBeam III-M instead because it lacks the selector ring?


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## HKJ (Aug 19, 2010)

CPFBiology said:


> What do you think of the light now? Does the selector ring feel flimsy, or that it could fail at the worst moment?
> 
> Do you think it is better to get the JetBeam III-M instead because it lacks the selector ring?



The selector ring is steel with a magnet, nothing flimsy about that. 
A magnetic ring is probably the most reliable way to change levels on any type of light.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 19, 2010)

HKJ said:


> A magnetic ring is probably the most reliable way to change levels on any type of light.


I agree with HKJ. Clicky switches are more likely to fail, both for mechanical reasons and due to the large amount of current that runs through them. 

Of course, they are also typically easily replaceable - but that may not be much consolation if you are out in the field when one breaks (without a replacement or pair of snap-ring pliers handy ).

Besides, in my experience, most failures I've seen have been outright circuit failures (either due to drops, circuit overloads, etc.). And those are pretty much impossible to predict. :shrug:


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## jhc37013 (Aug 20, 2010)

CPFBiology said:


> What do you think of the light now? Does the selector ring feel flimsy, or that it could fail at the worst moment?
> 
> Do you think it is better to get the JetBeam III-M instead because it lacks the selector ring?



If you are considering a light in this size with this type of beam then the RRT-2 is IMO one of the best. The light is very solid along with the selector ring as well. I have actually used mine quite a bit on a few camping and fishing trips, I have tossed it around quite a bit and surprisingly the ano still looks brand new with no scratches or blemishes. The anodizing from Jetbeam is the best I have from my made in China light's, along with Zebralight. I still get that impressive feeling every time I pick it up, its that same feeling I got when I first received the light.


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## Ecodelosandes (Aug 31, 2010)

Hi!
Is there any chance that JetBeam release an R5 version of this light anytime soon? :thinking:


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## Ecodelosandes (Aug 31, 2010)

BTW SelfBuilt: with every new review you post, i get in "problems" with my wife...Thank you! :thumbsup:

Excellent work, as always! :twothumbs


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## selfbuilt (Aug 31, 2010)

Ecodelosandes said:


> Is there any chance that JetBeam release an R5 version of this light anytime soon? :thinking:





Ecodelosandes said:


> BTW SelfBuilt: with every new review you post, i get in "problems" with my wife...Thank you! :thumbsup:


Well, you shouldn't have any problems here then - this review is over a year old. 

Seriously, I don't know what JetBeam's plans are for this series. But I wouldn't be surprised to see XP-G versions of a number of popular lights in the next few months - it seems like a lot manufacturers are making the switch. But again, no idea about the RRT-2 specifically.


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## phantom23 (Aug 31, 2010)

E3P, RRT-0, RRT-2 and Jet-III M already got XP-G:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3501363


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## Ray_of_Light (Aug 31, 2010)

I had to return my RRT-2 because it presented a long delay when switching from med to high level.
I have seen another member posting some time ago with the same problem. Is this delay happening with all RRT-2s - or is a problem with specific (and defective) RRT-2s?

Thanks

Anthony


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## Bloke (Sep 1, 2010)

Ray_of_Light said:


> Is this delay happening with all RRT-2s



Mine is ok.. so far


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## Ecodelosandes (Sep 4, 2010)

Well, well, well, BOG stated in their website:

New RRT-2 with Cree R5 Coming Soon (ETA: 9/8/10)

Can't wait for it!
Hope they offer the alternative reflector for buy as an accesory (SMO+OP), that would be very nice indeed. :devil:


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## Ray_of_Light (Sep 4, 2010)

Bloke,

Thanks!

Anthony


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## Ecodelosandes (Sep 8, 2010)

Mine is now making her looong way home. Ordered from BOG with the new R5 emitter, SMO reflector +OP optional.






I've just received the tracking number from BOG's boys, so i guess i'll need to excercise my patience.





Does someone have any idea about the updated numbers for the series with the R5 emitter (lumens/runtime/range)?


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## Ecodelosandes (Sep 21, 2010)

SelfBuilt: I have my RRT-2 R5 now, and taken some shots to display the differences with the R2 version, and some beamshots. Can i have you permission to post they here? Thanks! :thumbsup:


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## selfbuilt (Sep 21, 2010)

Ecodelosandes said:


> SelfBuilt: I have my RRT-2 R5 now, and taken some shots to display the differences with the R2 version, and some beamshots. Can i have you permission to post they here? Thanks! :thumbsup:


Please - I'm sure everyone would find the comparisons useful! :wave:


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## Ecodelosandes (Sep 21, 2010)

Well, the RRT-2 R5 version fell in my hands.:twothumbs



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[/URL][/img]


Before to say nothing there's something i want to make clear: I love this light!


I've read this excellent review from selfbuilt some weeks ago, and you know how bad this addiction is ... i wanted one of this! :naughty:
Being using an Olight M20 R2 for more than a year now, every day in my work, i feel very confy with this size and type of lights. The M20 is a serious piece of gear, probably you all know this, but this Raptor take the aestetics to the top IMO. The construction is on the max also, at least in the R2 version, one thing that impressed me was the massive brass heatsink in the head of it. Well, i regret to tell that's this one is gone on the R5, the head is now made all aluminium, and the pretty white board JetBeam labelled with the brass (+) contact passed to be a simple golden spring in a black plastic insert. Pity. 





[/URL][/img]



[/URL][/img]


This time the head lacks the fine-tunable focus feature, the two pieces of the head body that screwed together with that white plactic ring [Teflon maybe] acting as a lock have, been integrated in a single piece, containing the whole reflector assy, a step forward IMO. Still is the the gap simulated between the two former pieces, but it's now a simple cosmetic solution. :thumbsup:
The two pieces of the head now fit together (retaining the mode selector ring in between), in a STRONG manner so i can't disasemble it (yet...



). BTW, i've read some comments about the material of the ring being made of Alu, at least in this case it is clearly made of stainless steel, no doubt about it. The spring/ball detent mechanism that used to be easily seen in the gap between the head and the ring is now gone under the ring itself, so it can't be seen from any angle of view.
The little triangle marking the mode actually selected in the selector ring is cleanly cut in the SS, in place of the old dot, but i'm affraid its visibility is too low for many situations. Is not a big problem because with some use you'll find yourself changing modes without even take a look for it.


The head/body union is now reversed on the screws. The head is now a female type, being the body the male one this time with nude (no anodized), threads. The head's O-ring migrated to the body tube too because of this mod.





[/URL][/img]


The tailcap threads remains anodized so the light retains it's original lockout function. 

The tailcap for this new series is the two flanged one showed in this post ( https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3533125#post3533125 ) about the R5 newcomer, wich let the light to tailstand, a nice touch. Thank you Black Kamagong for the early news! :thumbsup:
But in this unit the BOG's people kindly replace it for the old fashioned one showed here with the SS bezel, wich I preferred definitely. :twothumbs
Even being from an older series the tailcap's anodized match perfectly with all the other parts finished this way in the light.

This unit was ordered with the SMO reflector, wich i prefer in all my ligths, i like the throwers and i'm not Ring-Phobic



, so the cree donuts are allright with me in real applicaton, YMMV.





I get into the work to disassemble the frontside of the head, to swap the provided SMO reflector with an OP i've ordered too, to make some comparisons, but unfortunately this OP is way larger than the correct size for this series. I guess will have to wait for the OP vs SMO fight. 





[/URL][/img]



[/URL][/img]


This, at least, let us to apreciate a couple of things, as the nude emitter and the crystal protecting the optical assy, wich impressed me being really thick. I presume that a piece of crystal with a diameter this small and such a thickness will be not unbreackable, but lies very close to that. The anti-reflect coating is excellent too, only matched by those provided aftermarket from the Flashlight Lens people, some of wich i get some years ago, to replace the crappy lexan from my once-proud MagLites. Is like to see the crystal from a camera lens. Yep, that serious.





[/URL][/img]



[/URL][/img]


Well, time to get the whole thing together again and face the dark.





I take this shots comparing the raptor R5 with the Olight M20 R2, because they belong to the same league IMO. I have an M30 too but they don't play the same game, i think. The camera were tripod mounted and the white balance set to daylight to see some kind of tint comparison too. The scenario is my backyard, and there is about 15 meters to the wall. The spots itself are about 1 meter of diameter in both cases, as you can see the M20 has a more "solid" constitution, and the Ratpor's one exhibits more a donut behavior, present in the olight also on a lesser degree.



This is the RRT-2 R5 ***************************************************and the M20 R2




[/URL][/img]



[/URL][/img]


And now they both together:




[/URL][/img]


As you can see, the raptor's spill is a lot more usable too.
The old kitchen has nothing to do with the test. 

Being the first time i participate in the forum this way, please let me know if I messed up with something or someone here, and please be indulgent about my english.  
Hope this come handy for some.

I'm really happy with the Raptor, is not a quantum leap forward from the Olight IMO, but i think is a finest light indeed, and the numbers clearly are reflected in the reality, is more powerful too, but keep in mind that we have a generation jump in emitter here (R2-R5). A comparison with the new gen M20 would be fairest for sure.

Summing Up: this is my new choice for my every day (or night), light. :twothumbs


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## jsr (Sep 22, 2010)

Wow, the Olight M20 R2 really throws much better than the RRT-2 R5. I had hoped the RRT-2 R5 would retain it's throw while being brighter overall. Hopefully someone can compare the RRT-2 R2 and R5 versions to give an idea of both beam and output changes.
Thanks for the great review Ecodelosandes!


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## jhc37013 (Sep 22, 2010)

Ecodel that was a very good review and your English is just fine. I don't have the XP-G RRT-2 but going from what I see and your review I think I'm not to impressed.

I love my RRT-2 R2 and it's heavy brass slug I think it is a awesome little trademark of the Raptor light's and I don't like it's gone. So that brings me to my first question and that is why is it gone?

Also the Raptor light's are known for their throw so the XP-G make no sense in this light, I guess they have to keep up with the times but I don't like were things are headed. Others my disagree with me but that is just a opinion.

Lastly I'm done with XP-G and donut holes, why manufactures continue to ship these light's with XP-G and a smooth reflector that has such a obvious dark center is beyond me. I don't want to even get started on the blue tint but it seems blue or green is in fashion.

Sorry to be negative or sound like I'm ranting but I hope we can move past the current state of choices being made with the reflector and XP-G supplied light's, especially like like the RRT-2 that some of us hold so dear. I will stay with the XR-E model it's a wonderful light.


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## Scarbear (Sep 22, 2010)

I thought the tailcap design has also changed. But what i see in your pics is the old one.

:thinking:

Olaf


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## jhc37013 (Sep 22, 2010)

Ecodelosandes said:


> The tailcap for this new series is the two flanged one showed in this post ( https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3533125#post3533125 ) about the R5 newcomer, wich let the light to tailstand, a nice touch. Thank you Black Kamagong for the early news! :thumbsup:
> *But in this unit the BOG's people kindly replace it for the old fashioned one showed here with the SS bezel, wich I preferred definitely. :twothumbs
> Even being from an older series the tailcap's anodized match perfectly with all the other parts finished this way in the light.
> *



The OP changed it to the older model tailcap he prefers more than the new one.


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## Scarbear (Sep 22, 2010)

Thanks,

i overlooked that


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## Ecodelosandes (Sep 22, 2010)

JHC thank you for your kind comments!




jhc37013 said:


> I love my RRT-2 R2 and it's heavy brass slug I think it is a awesome little trademark of the Raptor light's and I don't like it's gone.


 
I totally agree with you in this regard.
I think you're right and the R2 is still a good balance of specs/built quality. Since i haven't seen it I can't tell about, but I really like the R5.
Finally, is a good thing that Jetbeam has the two series available to personal choices. :thumbsup:


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## selfbuilt (Sep 22, 2010)

Ecodelosandes said:


> Well, the RRT-2 R5 version fell in my hands.:twothumbs


Thanks for the detailed pics and discussion Ecodelosandes - well presented. 

The M20-R2 is a good comparator (although I found the throw of the original RRT-2 R2 to be even higher). As is common on XP-G R5 lights, throw is reduced compared to XR-E R2 editions of the same model. I see the SMO reflector is also showing something of the common hotspot "donut-effect", but hopefully the proper OP reflector will smooth that out.

FYI, there are R5 lights that throw as well or better than typical R2 lights (i.e. 4Sevens Maelstrom G5 and the Tiablo A9-R5). But in a head-to-head comparison of the same size light, the XR-Es remain throw-kings. :shrug:

In any case, I find the throw of my Fenix TK12 R5 or Eagletac T20C2-II R5 to be perfectly fine for everyday use. Judging by the pics, I suspect the new RRT-2 R5 is falling into that general camp.

Thanks again for sharing the pics and update!

PS: I've recently updated my 100-yard beamshots to include all the R5-equipped lights mentioned above.


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## phantom23 (Sep 29, 2010)

Ecodelosandes said:


>


Can you measure diameter of the head? Old XR-E reflector looks wider than new bezel...


Ecodelosandes said:


>


Wow, that's really awful. I'm wondering why they switched reflectors because XP-G works really good with old OP (XR-E) reflector - nice throw with no donut hole. Here's my RRT-2 modded with XP-G (R4 3A) and OP reflector (right) compared to Eagle-Tac T10L (left):







As you can see - nice beam and a little bit over 10klux/1m (T10L does about 7klux/1m).


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## Ecodelosandes (Sep 29, 2010)

phantom23 said:


> Can you measure diameter of the head? Old XR-E reflector looks wider than new bezel...



I didn't measure the internal diameter for the bezel :shakehead, sorry about that omission, is really a good topic.

Now i'm not home so, even when i'm carring the Raptor, couldn't take the measure till the next weekend.

BTW, your OP reflector seems to do a really nice work with that setup. :thumbsup: , maybe i'll look for the correct OP for my R5 in the next order, and probably a Raptor R2 too... i'll be in serious problems for sure


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## Tek3 (Oct 7, 2010)

Selfbuilt,

Great review, man. I recently added this light to my collection based solely on this review (they should pay you for the business you give companies) and love it. It's a pocketable thrower, as I call it. I do have a question, though. When you compare this light to the Malestrom G5 by 4Sevens, which one has the smoother beam? Those rings and artifacts in the RRT-2 annoys the hell out of me. Lol.


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## selfbuilt (Oct 7, 2010)

Tek3 said:


> When you compare this light to the Malestrom G5 by 4Sevens, which one has the smoother beam? Those rings and artifacts in the RRT-2 annoys the hell out of me. Lol.


No question, the G5 has an incredibly smooth beam (the joys of the XP-G emitter). Much better than any XR-E-equipped "thrower" light like the RRT-2.

However, there have been some complaints around here of a dark centre void in the hotspot of some recent G5 lights (the dread of the XP-G emitter). These are actually quite common on all XP-G lights that use smooth emitters, although I didn't see it on my two early G5 samples. It can be quite variable from one light to the next. :shrug:


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## PCC (Sep 16, 2012)

Sorry for dredging this old thread up from the depths.

How about a 2 X 18650 RRT-2?






The body is from the M2S and it has an extender meant for the M1X to make it fit two 18650s.


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## peterharvey73 (Sep 17, 2012)

Looks so natural, but can the RRT-2's circuitry take 2x 3.7 Volts?


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## PCC (Sep 17, 2012)

Why not? Two RCR123s have the same voltage as two 18650s, right? It fired up just fine in all modes.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 18, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> Looks so natural, but can the RRT-2's circuitry take 2x 3.7 Volts?


The original RRT-2 I reviewed here certainly can - see the output and runtime graphs in the review.


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## peterharvey73 (Sep 22, 2012)

PCC said:


> Why not? Two RCR123s have the same voltage as two 18650s, right? It fired up just fine in all modes.





selfbuilt said:


> The original RRT-2 I reviewed here certainly can - see the output and runtime graphs in the review.



You's are right.
My mind just wasn't thinking clearly, and I forgot about about the ability of the original RRT-2 to take one 18650 @ 3.7V, or two (2) x 16340's @ 3.7V each.
So an RRT-2 with a MXM/M2S with extender for 2x 18650's @ 3.7V each should be fine for the circuitry to cope with the voltage.


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## tbarb169 (Oct 2, 2012)

Hi, not sure if this is the right place for this question, but here goes: I have the rrt-2, recently it does not want to turn on. I have fully charged 18650 (2 of them). The only way to get the light to work is to turn the selector ring and hold it past the setting you want. Or if you hold both ends and kind of squeeze the together. Nothing moves but seems some pressure helps. 

Any ideas? 

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## selfbuilt (Oct 2, 2012)

tbarb169 said:


> Hi, not sure if this is the right place for this question, but here goes: I have the rrt-2, recently it does not want to turn on. I have fully charged 18650 (2 of them). The only way to get the light to work is to turn the selector ring and hold it past the setting you want. Or if you hold both ends and kind of squeeze the together. Nothing moves but seems some pressure helps.


Not much you can do if the fault is with the head. Have you tried thoroughly cleaning and tightening everything? Check out the tailcap switch as well. If the problem is with the control ring/head, you are likely going to have to send it back for warranty service.


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## tbarb169 (Oct 2, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Not much you can do if the fault is with the head. Have you tried thoroughly cleaning and tightening everything? Check out the tailcap switch as well. If the problem is with the control ring/head, you are likely going to have to send it back for warranty service.



I have cleaned the threads. Any particular way or tool to remove the tail cap button?

The light also unscrew right above the words high mid low, but stops. Should it totally unscrew? I assume the strike bezel on the top also comes off... 

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## selfbuilt (Oct 3, 2012)

tbarb169 said:


> I have cleaned the threads. Any particular way or tool to remove the tail cap button?
> The light also unscrew right above the words high mid low, but stops. Should it totally unscrew? I assume the strike bezel on the top also comes off...


The RRT-2 is a little different from most lights, as you would need to remove the external retaining ring (around the switch button) to access the switch (a good set of snap-ring pliers is likely required). But you could rule out the switch by simply connecting the negative battery terminal to the body tube with a flat piece of metal, applying some pressure on the battery to ensure good contact in the head (i.e., and see if the ring works normally then).

The bezel ring should unscrew, but that will likely only give you access to the front of the emitter. I don't believe this model is considered user-serviceable for accessing the pill. If anyone has tried, please weigh in. It seems likely though that you will need to consider warranty service.


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## tbarb169 (Oct 3, 2012)

Thanks selfbuilt. I will see if I can rule out the switch. 

I am not the original owner of this light, bought it from another member a couple of years back, so any "warranty" work will come on my dime.


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## tbarb169 (Oct 3, 2012)

Well definitely not the tailcap clicky. It seems to be the selector ring. Just subtle pressure makes it go on and off. 

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## selfbuilt (Oct 3, 2012)

tbarb169 said:


> Well definitely not the tailcap clicky. It seems to be the selector ring. Just subtle pressure makes it go on and off.


Yeah, that always seemed likely. I suppose you could check in the modders forum, to see if anyone has any advice for opening up the head. Otherwise, sounds like you will have to deal with Jetbeam's warranty service.


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## PCC (Oct 3, 2012)

Try a little experiment if you have a small magnet handy: try moving a magnet around the control ring to see if you can get the light to come on. I've done this on mine and found the embedded magnet in my ring with this method. I was able to turn the light on with the ring set to Standby using the handheld magnet. It worked regardless if I got the polarity of the magnet right or wrong. It almost sounds like the previous owner unscrewed the head below the bezel ring, separating the two parts that retain the selector ring. I wonder if the magnet fell out or the lower half is misaligned from the top half?


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## PCC (Oct 3, 2012)

The more I think about it the more it seems that the head unscrewing is the issue. The circuit board with the hall sensors is attached to the lower part while the part with the words, High, Medium, Low, is separate from it. It would appear that the detents are on the part with the words so if they're out of alignment the magnet in the ring may not come close enough to a hall sensor to turn on the light. Try turning on the light, place the retaining ring on Low then tighten the two halves and see what happens. I'm guessing that the light will come on first on High then Medium then Low.


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## tbarb169 (Oct 4, 2012)

Yeah, the magnet wasn't doing anything. The twisting seems more likely the issue. 
There seems to be some play in the head, just a tiny bit, just slight pressure and the light comes right on. Just seems like a bad connection.

Curious if any one has completely taken this light apart? Maybe I just need to put it back together with stuff lined up correctly.... 

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## PCC (Oct 5, 2012)

Taking apart the RRT-2:

1) remove the bezel ring, lens, O-ring, reflector, and black lens centering ring from the front of the light.
2) desolder the two wires from the MCPCB and remove the MCPCB from the light.
3) unscrew the aluminum heatsink and remove it.
4) unscrew the two small screws holding the driver board from the body.

This is as far as I've gotten with mine. I was unable to loosen the two halves of the head that retains the selector ring. The driver board is attached to the lower part of the head the selector ring is indexed on the upper. If they go out of sync then it'll not work right.

tbarb169, rotating a small magnet around the selector ring didn't turn on the light? It almost sounds like your head's upper part and the lower part are out of sync by 160+ degrees and the magnet is not getting near enough to the hall sensors to turn the light on. To locate the magnet, rotate the ring until the arrow points at "High" and the magnet will be located under the scallop sitting over "Standby". At least that's where I found mine.


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## tbarb169 (Oct 5, 2012)

PPC, thanks for the info. I will try the magnet again tonight before I try taking the light apart. Not sure if i am going to go to the extreme of unsoldering the light.


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## tbarb169 (Oct 13, 2012)

Well I finally got around to taking the light apart last night. Turns out the two screws by the led were not tight. I completely took it apart, cleaned it and relubbed it. Put it all back together and worked like a charm. 

Only downside was a little scuffing of the finish since I had a hard time getting the light apart. Oh well, at least it works now! 

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## selfbuilt (Oct 13, 2012)

tbarb169 said:


> Well I finally got around to taking the light apart last night. Turns out the two screws by the led were not tight. I completely took it apart, cleaned it and relubbed it. Put it all back together and worked like a charm.


Glad to hear it worked out. Any pics?


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## bullinchinashop (Oct 25, 2012)

"The light comes on in a very fast (and very annoying) 21.8 Hz strobe, followed by a just slightly less annoying 15.2 Hz, and then a 6.6 Hz and 5.5 Hz strobe. As I mentioned, each frequency lasts for about 0.5 secs, and then the whole thing repeats."

It would probably be a lot more effective if it went 21.8 - 6.6 - 15.2 -5.5 Hz
Oh well


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## tbarb169 (Oct 29, 2012)

Sorry, I did not take any pictures. I don't think i even realized that I fixed it until i was putting it back together. When i tightened the screws, i recalled that they were not very tight when i was taking them out. Once it was all back together, i dropped the battery in and it was like it was when i first received it.


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## palomino77 (Dec 23, 2012)

Help I dropped my RRT-2 yesterday and broke the lens,, could somebody help m please?:mecry:everything is perfect, you can hardly see where it hit the cement but i need new lens.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 23, 2012)

palomino77 said:


> Help I dropped my RRT-2 yesterday and broke the lens,, could somebody help m please?:mecry:everything is perfect, you can hardly see where it hit the cement but i need new lens.


If the manufacturer can't help, flashlightlens.com may be able to supply something of the right size. You would just have to provide very exact measurements of the diameter. Good luck!

Sent from my handheld device


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