# Any interest in more A2/L1/L2 Switch guard rings?



## oregonshooter (Jan 15, 2006)

I made an aluminum switch guard the for my A2 last night and liked the way it came out so I'm planning on trying it in two other materials and wondered if I should make extras for sale here?

I don't have anyway of anodizing (anyone have a link to "home cooking?"), so I'm going to try brass and high temperature Nylatron (has a slight carbon fiber "camouflage" look) to see which I like best.

mahoney sent me his specs from his Delrin run, but I didn't have them at work so I winged it. It came out looking the same though as the ones found at http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=82851

This post is just to see if there is enough interest to make extras, because if I do I'll buy the tap/die instead of cutting threads for everyone. 

I hope to post samples of each in a few days.

Thanks.

+++++++++++++++++++++

Final product pics...
Click on my sigline to go to online store

*(Updated 05/28/06: making in Delrin only now and with the lowest profile I can that still allows the light to tail stand. QC is very good now that I've made a few. )*














Delrin (black)


----------



## oregonshooter (Jan 15, 2006)

I should have listed it as "High temp Nylatron" in the poll, but I can not edit the poll after it's posted. Sorry! 

It looks like a "camo" carbon fiber pattern to me.


----------



## leukos (Jan 16, 2006)

Post a pic as soon as you get a chance!


----------



## InFlux (Jan 16, 2006)

I was looking for one or two of these. I'd probably go for the the Nitrolon (my vote).


----------



## IonFire (Jan 16, 2006)

If these can fit the E-series Z-57's, i am line for a couple aswell. 

If not, carp 


Thanks for the offer.


IF


----------



## oregonshooter (Jan 16, 2006)

IonFire,
I don't know if they fit any others, I don't think so. McGizmo has very nice replacement tail-caps for the E's. This is HIS design according to mahoney.

Below are pics of my prototype that I have on my light made of aluminum. When I get a tap and die (none available locally, gotta mail order) I will build a "finishing jig" so I can polish the inner bevel better. Without a jig to screw the cap into after I cut it from the bar stock, I have to grab the knurls which flattens them a tiny bit. You only notice if you look very close, but I won't let any go like that.

The specs I'm using are in the last pic.

I should note that I'm a hobby machinist (Electrician by trade), so while I try to be exact, the product may be a few thousands out. 

I will test them all on my A2 though before shipping.

The Nylatron, tap, and die should be here in a week tops. I'll post samples of the finished product in another post in the for sale area and link to it from here when I have a few made.

Thanks for the interest.

EDIT: Pics removed... see first post for current images...


----------



## rscanady (Jan 16, 2006)

Very nice, I like it!


Ryan


----------



## oregonshooter (Jan 16, 2006)

Thanks Ryan! I have you to thank/Blame for getting me hooked! LOL


----------



## Kiessling (Jan 16, 2006)

I am interested if you ship overseas ... to Germany.
Black Camo or aluminium.
Cool 
bernie


----------



## oregonshooter (Jan 16, 2006)

Sorry Bernie, CONUS only. I get confused when it takes more than a stamp.


----------



## leukos (Jan 16, 2006)

oregonshooter, 

Looks like you did pretty well at your first attempt, looks great! 
Are you happy with the design, any improvements?


----------



## Bogie (Jan 16, 2006)

I would probally be in for a few most likley Nitrolon thou


----------



## oregonshooter (Jan 16, 2006)

Thanks leukos,
It's KISS and I like that. I can't think of anything more that's needed. Did you have a suggestion?



leukos said:


> oregonshooter,
> 
> Looks like you did pretty well at your first attempt, looks great!
> Are you happy with the design, any improvements?


----------



## litho123 (Jan 17, 2006)

leukos, Kiessling or any other International folks...

let me know if you need me as a forwarding agent.

I'd be in for one of these.


----------



## Dan_GSR (Jan 17, 2006)

nice piece
does it make pushing the button any more difficult?


----------



## diggdug13 (Jan 17, 2006)

I would like two high temperature Nylatron switch guards rings please. 


Let me know when and were to PP you.

Doug


----------



## oregonshooter (Jan 17, 2006)

Dan_GSR said:


> nice piece
> does it make pushing the button any more difficult?



No. Access is more limited and you need to push more inline with the button because you can't put pressure from the side anymore, but that's the purpose of it. 

The hole is plenty generous and does not drag the switch boot. I carried mine last night with gloves on and had no issues working it.


----------



## Kiessling (Jan 17, 2006)

litho ... thanx for this kind offer, much appreciated, but you are lucky as another member will do this work and buy one for me. Thanx again!
bernie


----------



## mahoney (Jan 17, 2006)

The Z57 tailcaps have a rubber boot retaining ring somewhat similar to that on the A2/L1/L2 tailcap but it's a different diameter and thread. These won't work on the Z57.


----------



## oregonshooter (Jan 17, 2006)

I have a standing offer to make one if I get to keep the light.  j/k


----------



## diggdug13 (Jan 26, 2006)

any word if this is still a go?

I'm still very interested. 

doug


----------



## kelmo (Jan 26, 2006)

Greetings Neighbor to the North,

I would be interested in a Nylatron ring. Is this a composite material? Can I send you a check? I'd be willing to mail you a check, wait until it clears your account, and then have you ship it. 

Just PM me if this is acceptable.

Many thanks!


----------



## oregonshooter (Jan 26, 2006)

I should have some done this weekend. 
I'll post another thread in the "for sale" area with pics of them.


PS. Nylatron is the same as Delrin for this application. It's a high-strength plastic. Delrin has a little greater tensile strength but they are interchangeable for most applications.


----------



## diggdug13 (Jan 26, 2006)

will you be letting those of us that posted interest heads up about these before they are sold out on another thread?

I for one am more than willing to send the money now to make sure I can get mine, sometimes time differences are a bad thing..

Doug


----------



## oregonshooter (Jan 26, 2006)

Diggdug,
That sounds fair. I made the post so I could see who voted on them. I'll post images of the Nylatron and brass ones here and contact (PM) the voters for first dibbs before posting in the general sales area what's left over. I want to do them in batches but I'm on a new shift at work and can only work on them 2 days a week.

It is happening though. I won't be buying any tap&die though, can't get 13/16-20 NEF locally and online they are $90.00 so the threading is by on the lathe also which makes it twice as long to make one.

I will offer a 10 day inspection period for returns to anyone who pays with PayPal (same price), but hopefully that won't be an issue.


----------



## diggdug13 (Jan 26, 2006)

Thank you very much

Doug


----------



## oregonshooter (Feb 6, 2006)

Just a note to say that I'm still going to make them. I made one with the high-temp Nylatron, but the cool cammo design is only on the top skin, once you cut into it it's basic gray. Looks good though, and better than black would IMO.

Here's a snap shot of the one on my light. Couldn't find the macro lens to get a closeup, but using cross-hatching for the knurling now.


----------



## dougmccoy (Feb 6, 2006)

Man, even without the macro shot this is one cool looking accessory! Well Done!
Doug


----------



## carrot (Feb 6, 2006)

Looks good.


----------



## leukos (Feb 6, 2006)

:goodjob:


----------



## rscanady (Feb 6, 2006)

OS

Wheres mine?


----------



## InFlux (Feb 6, 2006)

InFlux said:


> I was looking for one or two of these. I'd probably go for the the Nitrolon (my vote).



Yup, don't forget about me!


----------



## diggdug13 (Feb 7, 2006)

OS,

WoW!!! awsome. Just tell us when and where to send the PP.. woo hooo


Doug


----------



## schill (Feb 7, 2006)

I voted for and am still interested in the Nylatron version. Looks good!


----------



## g36pilot (Feb 8, 2006)

Put me down for 1 Nylatron ring. PP whenever you're ready.

My A2 will infrequently activate in my leather "bezel up" holster. This should reduce the that.

Nice Work!


----------



## oregonshooter (Feb 14, 2006)

The first batch of Nylatron caps are ready to ship.

Everyone that was on the poll as of this message has been sent a PM describing how to purchase them. 

-- Jumpmaster --
Your PM is set to not accept messages. PM me to get the link to purchase one if you are still interested.

Those who wanted more than one kind will have to get them separately, as I have not done any Aluminum or brass yet. Next week I hope.

I'm giving everyone from the poll until next Monday to get their orders in, then is will be first come first served after that.

Thanks for the interest.


----------



## oregonshooter (Feb 14, 2006)

OK, I will ship international if you can use PayPal.


----------



## oregonshooter (Feb 14, 2006)

pics removed


----------



## diggdug13 (Feb 14, 2006)

OS,
you did a great job that's exactly what I was looking for !!!

doug


----------



## jtice (Feb 14, 2006)

Those look great !

Any plans for U2 / L5 switch gaurds? :naughty:

~John


----------



## oregonshooter (Feb 14, 2006)

Thanks diggdug!

Like I said before, I'm just an Electrician playing on a lathe at work (don't expect CNC quality here) and this little project taught me a lot about the difference between making one for yourself and going "production line." 

Gotta think of what to do for my next project now.


----------



## oregonshooter (Feb 14, 2006)

jtice,
My buddy RSCANADY has a bunch of lights that he might let me borrow to make caps for if we hookup. I'll talk to him about it. Right now the response to these has been a lot more than I anticipated (for actual buying) so I'm gonna have to make more than the second batch I think. 

When everyone who wants one gets one, I'll make them on request only and get started on the next project. Maybe add a poll for the same bezel but you guys pick the light.

We'll see.


----------



## oregonshooter (Feb 16, 2006)

Store is open to all who want them....


http://www.oregonshooter.com/store/index.php?cPath=1


----------



## greenLED (Feb 17, 2006)

PM sent


----------



## oregonshooter (Feb 19, 2006)

Seems my cool storefront is not working. I put the original order page back up at:

http://oregonshooter.com/a2_paypal.html

And added my address for anyone wanting to send Money Orders OR Checks. Of course checks will have to clear before shipping.

I should have some aluminium ones done tonight, and brass by next week.


----------



## kelmo (Feb 19, 2006)

I got mine within a week of ordering! It looks like it came factory installed. It just screwed right on in and looks exactly like oregonshooter's posted picture.

oregonshooter you rule! 

I would highly recommend getting one. I can now stow my L2 in my backpack and not have to worry about it turning on.

kelmo


----------



## Lunal_Tic (Feb 20, 2006)

I see they will also fit the L1, great. Order on the way.

-LT


----------



## this_is_nascar (Feb 20, 2006)

How's it going with the aluminum version of these?


----------



## greenLED (Feb 20, 2006)

order placed for a black ring :thanks:


----------



## oregonshooter (Feb 20, 2006)

this_is_nascar said:


> How's it going with the aluminum version of these?



I should have at least 10 of them done tonight.

Note:
I'm "special" ordering black nylatron for greenLED and will be offering it in a few weeks in black also.


----------



## this_is_nascar (Feb 20, 2006)

oregonshooter said:


> I should have at least 10 of them done tonight.



I'd like to reserve (2) of those in aluminum if I can.


----------



## greenLED (Feb 20, 2006)

oregonshooter said:


> I'm "special" ordering black nylatron for greenLED and will be offering it in a few weeks in black also.


:bow: :thanks:


----------



## Kiessling (Feb 20, 2006)

COOL !
I'd be in for a black version, too !!!
bernie


----------



## oregonshooter (Feb 20, 2006)

I just check with my supplier on another shipment of the nylatron and it's late. 

So I'm out until next week.

I did get an order in for the black though.

Thanks for all the interest guys!


----------



## greenLED (Feb 20, 2006)

oregonshooter, e-mail sent.


----------



## oregonshooter (Feb 22, 2006)

images removed...


----------



## rikvee (Feb 24, 2006)

Excellent work, this little switchguard fits in perfectly with the Surefire design, the light can now stand on its tail, still plenty of room for fingers or thumbs to operate the switch.... thank you Jim!


----------



## oregonshooter (Feb 25, 2006)

Thanks for the feedback! If you see a way to improve it let me know!


----------



## oregonshooter (Feb 28, 2006)

Making them in basic black Delrin now.


----------



## g36pilot (Feb 28, 2006)

Jim,

Received my Nytralon A2 ring today and easily installed it. Nice work!

All, 

My ring's fit & finish are as promised and depicted in the photos. Perfect.

G36pilot


----------



## oregonshooter (Feb 28, 2006)

Appreciated g36pilot!


----------



## diggdug13 (Feb 28, 2006)

I just wanted to make a quick comment to everyone about OS. I got a call from my Postmaster at my base the other day, needless to say I usually don't get excited when he calls cuz it usually means something of mine was broken or damaged, well that day was no exception. there was my envelope from OS ripped almost dead center with both tail rings missing. It appeared as if the envelope got caught in the sorting machine in some Post office (not mine), leaving the tail caps far far away from me with no address to ship them to.. sniffff.

I PM'd OS to recommend to him to use padded envelopes with no intentions of asking for a replacement I was willing and asked to order replacements, (alot of times damage / loss caused by mail does not consitute sellers fault) for the lost items. Well OS PM'd back saying he was shipping two replacements in a PADDED ENVELOPE ... :rock:

I just wanted to say that if anyone is alittle squimish, OS has awsome customer care he replaced the two tail caps when he didn't have to and without me asking..

Thanks alot OS 
Doug


----------



## rscanady (Mar 1, 2006)

I have know Jim (OS) for a while on another board for a while and even had the pleasure of getting to meet him once and he is a stand up guy, his replacing the rings does not suprise me at all. Great to here that these are working out well and i look forward to getting mine soon.

Great customer service Jim, keep it up.

RYan


----------



## oregonshooter (Mar 1, 2006)

DiggDug,
Your's are going out in the AM.

Ryan,
OK, You guilted me into it. I'll quite sending your's to paying customers and mail one out in the AM also. 

Thanks for the good words guys!


----------



## greenLED (Mar 1, 2006)

oregonshooter said:


> Ryan,
> OK, You guilted me into it.



:devil: ...and I pushed you off the edge!?


----------



## Perel (Mar 4, 2006)

Just got mine. The machining appears flawless.. I don't see any tooling marks at all. Beautiful work.

Now, how do I get it on the light? I saw on the other thread that I'm supposed to use needlenose pliers to remove the existing ring.. but I can't get it off.


----------



## oregonshooter (Mar 4, 2006)

It's hard to explain, but here is my attempt for another customer. I don't have my original ring anymore or I would do a pictorial.



> You need to put slight down pressure on the flush fitting ring that is already in the threads while turning it CCW. I used a pair of needle nose pliers that fit into the slots.
> 
> The key is match the downward pressure with the turning pressure, and NOT try to go too fast, or you will bugger it up.
> 
> ...


----------



## Perel (Mar 4, 2006)

Hmm. I must still be missing something here. I'm inserting a pair of needle-nose pliers that fit in the little slots. I press in a little and try to turn CCW. Nope. I try just turning, no pressure. Nope. I try pushing hard and turning. Nope. Even when I'm not pushing down very hard, just mostly turning, I'm turning hard enough that the knurling is uncomfortable to hold. Do I need to mount the tailcap in a vise to get this ring off?

I can't help but feel that I'm missing some really obvious trick here.


----------



## oregonshooter (Mar 4, 2006)

Mine came out pretty easy with it in my hand. No vise should be needed. I'm not physics master, but would a little heat help? The aluminum would expand and loosen, but not sure the plastic wouldn't also? I did say "a little" heat!


----------



## Perel (Mar 4, 2006)

Well, I just tried that. Didn't help.

I took the batteries out and propped the tailcap against a small space heater. Took it away after the metal got comfortably warm, no luck. Put it back until the metal got UNCOMFORTABLY warm, still no luck. While I'm sure I could just melt the ring out with a blowtorch, I'm pretty sure that isn't what you had in mind.. 

I am getting a good grip on the nubs with my pliers. I feel them grab and not budge - more or less downwards pressure makes no difference. It definitely feels like the threads are cold welded together, even though AFAICT that isn't possible given the materials involved. Maybe Loctite or something? Or maybe I'm just missing something.. or maybe this is yet another screwy thing with my A2. (I'm still waiting on a replacement LA to try to fix an intermittent contact problem, and a new tailcap because one of the internal tabs broke off, making it a little finicky about adjustment to turn the incan on. Works fine so long as I have it rotated properly, but it's not supposed to do that.. And this is a brand new light too.)


----------



## oregonshooter (Mar 5, 2006)

I'm out of ideas.  
Shouldn't be that hard. 
Nobody has said they had that much trouble with theres yet. 

Keep us informed. Otheres might have the same issue, although I've not heard of any myself.


----------



## Perel (Mar 5, 2006)

Will do. I wonder how SF CS would react if I called for advice. Might find out Monday..


----------



## g36pilot (Mar 5, 2006)

"NOTE: The flush ring is riding on top of the rubber cap, so the more downward pressure WITHOUT equal turning pressure results in friction and becomes self defeating." - OS

My experience: "Just enough/light+" downward pressure was applied to keep the pliers in the ring indentions. Too much and it there's enough drag you may not be able to turn the ring. 

To reduce the downward pressure I spread the pliers somewhat while turning. This outward psi helped hold the pliers in place with less downward psi and resultant drag. It still took a little effort. As you mentioned, mine appeared to have a trace amount of adhesive like material on the thread.


----------



## leukos (Mar 5, 2006)

Perel, 

I know SF superglues the rubber boot to the tailcap and it may be possible that someone was sloppy and got some on the ring as well? :shrug:


----------



## christrose (Mar 5, 2006)

I used the nail-polish remover (includes low-concentration toluene) in order to melt adhesives.

EDIT:toluene (mistaken)-> acetone


----------



## Perel (Mar 5, 2006)

Hmm, so nail polish remover on the tailcap? Superglue on the threads would make sense.

I have been *opening* the pliers into the slots. That gives a good, firm sideways grip.. and I can choose how much downward pressure to apply. It's still stuck, though.


----------



## Perel (Mar 5, 2006)

christrose said:


> I used the nail-polish remover (includes low-concentration toluene) in order to melt adhesives.


You mean acetone? Toulene is a bit dangerous for removing nail polish..

Anyway, we can add this to the "things that don't help" list. I just doused my tailcap in nail polish remover and tried to turn the ring. This is just getting silly.


----------



## christrose (Mar 5, 2006)

Aaaah. I'd posted dangerous mistake, sorry.
Sure, I'ts acetone not toluene.
To remove the ring, I poured a little quantity by using an injector.


----------



## Perel (Mar 5, 2006)

Hmm. I just poured it over the top, which got everything on there soaking in it. There doesn't seem to be a gap to really get the acetone down into the threads. Were you putting anything into the underside of the tailcap, where the battery spring is?


----------



## christrose (Mar 5, 2006)

I suppose that too much was poured.
It needed only a bit quantity using capillary tube phenomenon. I waited about 10 minutes after poured, and rotated the ring by using needle nose plier.
It maybe should be repeated. One of mine needed 3 times trial for this process.


----------



## schill (Mar 6, 2006)

I have also been unsuccessful in removing my original ring. And I've got this great replacement sitting there waiting to be used.


----------



## Perel (Mar 6, 2006)

Tried it again x3, just like christrose suggested. It's still stuck.


----------



## leukos (Mar 6, 2006)

Perel,

Maybe SF will let you order another tailcap from them, and then you'll have a spare?


----------



## Perel (Mar 6, 2006)

Well, SF owes me a new tailcap anyway, because one of the little tabs inside this one is broken off. It's kind of interesting - if I have it turned the right way the light becomes three-stage - but that's not what it's supposed to do. (LED/unreg incan/reg incan)

I guess I'll just wait until SF's slooooooow CS actually gets that tailcap to me, and then see if I can get the ring off on it.


----------



## rscanady (Mar 7, 2006)

Ok got my tailcap bezel a couple of days ago, put it on and it fit like a gem. The old ring came out easily with a set of snap ring pliers (if you mod lights, you should really own a set of these!). and the new ring from ORegon Shooter went in without issue. While it does have a different look than that I was used too, it seemed to flow with the design. The top is not sharp and then has in inner bevel that makes the button action easier. The new ring allows tailstanding ability (Candle mode) and has cutdown all accidental activation in my pocket so far. I used to have to lock it out becuase I keep it clipped in my left front pocket and it would turn on sometimes when I sat down. Activating the button is not quite so easy (But then again that is the purpose of this mod) but still requires little effort. You just have to be a little more direct and inline with the pressing. While I could see some problems maybe with people who wear gloves a lot, I dont and therefore its not a problem for me. All in all a very nicely made and simple solution to accidental activations. And it has the look to boot!


Nicely done Oregon SHooter!


Ryan


----------



## oregonshooter (Mar 7, 2006)

Thanks for the review Ryan. I have done quite a bit with gloves on and had no problems. Still requires more inline activation though, and gloves multiply this, but has worked for me. YMMV


----------



## schill (Mar 7, 2006)

rscanady said:


> The old ring came out easily with a set of snap ring pliers (if you mod lights, you should really own a set of these!). and the new ring from ORegon Shooter went in without issue.



My (admitedly very cheap) snap ring pliers died trying to open parts of a Q-III. There's no way they'd work on the A2. I've got to get better pliers.


----------



## astrogrub (Mar 9, 2006)

These switch guard rings are very nice and quite useful as well as well made.
I installed three of them on A2's and they fit and function perfectly. I might have to get some more.

The problem was getting the original rubber boot rings off. It looks like SF is using Black Max or some other type of epoxy to hold some of them on. I ended up having to use a small butane torch to heat up that back portion of the tail cap (on the Aluminum sides) where the threads to hold the ring are. 

Once I saw the ring/Al tailcap interface slightly bubbling/smoking around its circumfrance (ie move the torch around the diameter w/just the tip of the flame touching the diameter of the Al) it was easy to get the ring off. 

I was worried about melting the rubber boot not to mention the gunk inside the switch itself (resistor and plastic stuff) but as long as I was careful w/the torch and didn't hit the rubber or plastic w/it directly all was fine. That entire switch assembly got hot though.............

I didn't have any of those snap ring pliers so I sacrificed the wire off of a medium sized binder clip and made a crude spanner wrench w/it.
It worked fine. 

And again those switch guards are great and well worth it. It took about 4min to do each flashlight switch (which all still work, no problems). It may help if you like to play w/torches and aren't squeamish about potentially melting things though.


----------



## Lunal_Tic (Apr 8, 2006)

My old L1 had to boil for about 20+ minutes before I could crack it loose. There is a gap between the tailcap and the guard ring as in the photos above. Has anyone sanded down the threaded side to make the pieces meet flush?

-LT


----------



## MSaxatilus (Apr 8, 2006)

I'll take about 1/2 dozen for the L1/L2 and if you make any for the U2/L5, I'll take a few of those. I'm not super picky on the material, as long as they are black or HAIII color.

Thanks for possibly doing these. I'd love to swap over some of my SFs so they can be used in candlemode!

MSax


----------



## this_is_nascar (Apr 8, 2006)

I agree with wanting a version for my U2.


----------



## oregonshooter (Apr 8, 2006)

Sorry guys no U2 caps. A guy sent me one to check out but the inner o-ring grooves are too much work for my setup and I could not guarantee they would seal.


----------



## oregonshooter (May 28, 2006)

BTT

Updated pics in first post. Making in Delrin only now and with the lowest profile I can that still allows the light to tail stand. QC is very good now that I've made a few. 

I have a few cauls and 4 in Aluminium (old style) that are 100% functional but not up to specs. email me if you want one for $10.00 shipped.


----------



## leukos (May 28, 2006)

oregonshooter said:


>


 
How do you like that aluminum grip ring you made for your A2?


----------



## greenLED (May 28, 2006)

I have one of the tail rings on my L1, and it works great (looks sleek too)!
:thanks: oregonshooter!


----------



## oregonshooter (May 28, 2006)

leukos said:


> How do you like that aluminum grip ring you made for your A2?



It's great! 

I'm getting some 1-1/4" Delrin in this week that I plan to start making rings for the A2/L2/L1 and E2/L4 series. I started making them for a CPF member in aluminium, but I think the Delrin is gonna work better.

I'll put up a post in a week or so when they are done.


PS. They defeat the purpose of the tail bezel, but I was too lazy to search for my missing allen wrench to take it off for the photo.


----------



## flashlight (Jun 17, 2006)

I'd like to get one please. Email sent. Thanks.


----------



## slaps (Jun 17, 2006)

Any E2 compatible rings yet? Your work looks GOOD!


----------



## oregonshooter (Jun 22, 2006)

slaps,
I now have an E2, so I will try to get some made when I get a chance. I'm working with a member now to make the "cigar" rings fro the E2 and A2 lines. He just got the first batch and is gonna confirm that the ID spec I was using will fit the slight variations on the L4, E2, etc. before I put them up on my store.

I have some Aluminium (4) bezels left over that I just put on sale at $10.00 if anyone wants them. http://www.oregonshooter.com/index.php?id=141

I have Delrin in stock also if that's your preference.


----------



## benchmade_boy (Jun 22, 2006)

i want one in delrin how much are they for it and S&H


----------



## benchmade_boy (Jun 22, 2006)

forgot tomenchin iwant one for the a2 not e2


----------



## oregonshooter (Jun 23, 2006)

They are $20.00 delivered CONUS for Delrin. You can find order info by visiting my website mentioned in my sigline.


----------



## benchmade_boy (Jun 23, 2006)

ok thanks


----------



## cue003 (Jun 23, 2006)

How difficult are these to put on?

Where do I find the metal ring that you show in your picture? Is that something you make as well? If so how much? I think you mentioned making a Delrin version, how much will that be?

Curtis


----------



## buba (Jun 23, 2006)

Ordered one. Should look nice on my A2-BK-WH user light!


----------



## flashlight (Jun 23, 2006)

Got mine today & it fits & works great. 

cue003, just use a pair of needle nose pliers to engage the notches in the existing plastic retaining on the tailcap & slowly turn anticlockwise to remove it. Then screw on the new delrin tailguard - voila! Takes a minute or two only.


----------



## greenLED (Jun 23, 2006)

Cue003, I used needlenose pliers to press outwards on the retaining ring of my L1 while I unscrewed it. The stock retaining ring wasn't glued on or tightly wedged in on my light.

buba, these are really nice.


----------



## flashlight (Jun 23, 2006)

greenLED said:


> Cue003, I used needlenose pliers to press outwards on the retaining ring of my L1 while I unscrewed it. The stock retaining ring wasn't glued on or tightly wedged in on my light.
> 
> buba, these are really nice.



You're losing your edge gL, I beat you to it.


----------



## greenLED (Jun 23, 2006)

flashlight said:


> You're losing your edge gL, I beat you to it.


That's what happens when I have a few browser tabs open at the same time - I miss other people's posts. :shhh: don't tell Sasha


----------



## cue003 (Jun 23, 2006)

Ok, I ordered one... thanks hopefully install will be smooth like you guys say. I am still intereted in that metal ring though..... any info?

Curtis


----------



## Mitfox (Jun 24, 2006)

I ordered my last week, got them 2day.. And i'm still trying to take out the stock retaining ring.


----------



## flashlight (Jun 24, 2006)

Mitfox said:


> I ordered my last week, got them 2day.. And i'm still trying to take out the stock retaining ring.



You need help installing it? I can try.  No guaranteees I won't break it though but I do have a spare original ring in case it does.


----------



## Mitfox (Jun 24, 2006)

:naughty: I've taken out the retaining ring.. But, the retaining ring is damage. It's so tight that I've have to use a knife to cut through the retaining ring and thus scratching off the HA of the bezel end and exposing the silver part. :thumbsdow
The good news is that the guard ring sits snugly in it now. 
Anyway, Thanks for the offer Flashlight..


----------



## flashlight (Jun 25, 2006)

Mitfox said:


> :naughty: I've taken out the retaining ring.. But, the retaining ring is damage. It's so tight that I've have to use a knife to cut through the retaining ring and thus scratching off the HA of the bezel end and exposing the silver part. :thumbsdow
> The good news is that the guard ring sits snugly in it now.
> Anyway, Thanks for the offer Flashlight..



 but Congrats. No problem.


----------



## oregonshooter (Jun 25, 2006)

cue003 said:


> How difficult are these to put on?
> 
> Where do I find the metal ring that you show in your picture? Is that something you make as well? If so how much? I think you mentioned making a Delrin version, how much will that be?
> 
> Curtis




They are a simple screw in operation, but sometimes the original rings are very tight in the SF from factory. On about the second or third page of this thread there are some tips for people who have this problem. Most lights are easy to remove the old ring on but YMMV.

The "Cigar Ring" is being tested on lights by my designated "Flashohalic" friend on this forum and I should get either the thumbs up or "needs improvement" soon. I'm gonna offer them in Delrin for A2 style and E2 sizes also if all goes well.


----------



## buba (Jun 27, 2006)

Switch guard ring received and I must say it is very high quality. I did have problems removing the orig retaining ring. I tried the boil in a baggie for 30 minutes without success, then I poured a few drops of pure acetone on the orig retaining ring and out it came. Must of had some super glue on the orig plastic retaining ring.


----------



## oregonshooter (Jun 27, 2006)

Thanks for the report Buba! 

There is definitely a glue QC issue at SF as some have trouble some don't. Glad to hear the Acetone works. I may need to do it with my E2E. 

Does it destroy the old ring?


----------



## buba (Jun 27, 2006)

It did not effect the orig ring or rubbber switch cover at all, but it was only in contact for 2 minutes. In my case 4 to 5 good sized drops on the ring/tailcap seam, let is sit for a couple minutes, and off it came. I wiped the threads with a cotton cloth and it was ready for the new switch guard ring. As stated earlier, most fingernail polish removers contain some acetone.



oregonshooter said:


> Thanks for the report Buba!
> 
> There is definitely a glue QC issue at SF as some have trouble some don't. Glad to hear the Acetone works. I may need to do it with my E2E.
> 
> Does it destroy the old ring?


----------



## oregonshooter (Jun 27, 2006)

Thanks Buba, I think I'll start including instructions for this with any I ship from now on.


----------



## cue003 (Jun 27, 2006)

I have tried over and over and cannot get my switch guard off. This is really fustrating. I am terrified of screwing up the finish on my light. 

Anyone willing to assist. It won't budge. 

Curtis


----------



## greenLED (Jun 27, 2006)

did you try the acetone?
what type of plyers are you using?


----------



## cue003 (Jun 27, 2006)

OK, just tried again and got it. Damn. I thought I was going to pop a blood vessel trying to get that thing out. 

Thanks.

Curtis


----------



## cue003 (Jul 5, 2006)

Any progress on the combat grip in delrin? I want 2 of those. 

Thanks

Curtis


----------



## oregonshooter (Jul 6, 2006)

Cue,
I've got 15 made for the E2 size bodies but am waiting feedback from my "test user" before making them available. I will have A2 size the week after he OK's them.

They will be $10.00 each delivered when they are available. Keep checking my website (in signature) for when they are ready.


----------



## oregonshooter (Jul 18, 2006)

Some rings are ready....
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1507798#post1507798


----------



## benchmade_boy (Jul 24, 2006)

if inybody is thinking about getting one of these go ahead and get one i recieved mine today and it is awsome it is precision work and no flaws that i can tell. they are absolutely fabulus


----------



## KDOG3 (Sep 26, 2006)

Sweet. I have an new L1 I'd like to get this for. Can you make them for the U2 as well?


----------



## oregonshooter (Sep 26, 2006)

Sorry, no U2s. To complicated and water proofing would be lost.


----------



## FiftyCalAl (Nov 9, 2006)

OREGONSHOOTER,

Aviator questions:

What are the "o ring looking" parts (in your picture) in your lanyard ring groove? What function do these play? Also, how do I take my lanyard ring off without damaging it/how do you get it back on?

I absolutely love my cap I bought from you. It has made me regard my A2 as my primary light now. In the past, I was always afraid I would accidentally engage the tc and discharge the batts. Now I feel secure when I carry it in the 'ready mode' that such an occurrence will not happen. Great Product! I'm now wondering if this will fit my (just arrived today) KROMA.

Keep up the good work! Alan


----------



## oregonshooter (Nov 9, 2006)

I've heard that they do fit the Kroma.

THose are glow in the dark o-rings from greenLED on the board here.

My lanyard loop broke, but you can remove it by prying it apart. It's in two halves and just snaps together.

Thanks for the kudos!


----------



## milkyspit (Nov 11, 2006)

Jim, the online store seems to be no more? :thinking:

Was just getting to ordering some more A2 switch guard rings. Are you still making them?


----------



## oregonshooter (Nov 11, 2006)

Well, I'm looking for a solution that is free but have not found the perfect fit. http://store.oregonshooter.com will always be the storefront and I will redirect it to what ever I'm using at the time.

Right now it goes to eCrater but they do not keep stock amounts so there is still a chance of selling when it's not in stock which I don't like.

If you know of a free storefront that is not hosted by the user (ie. ecommerce, shopcart, etc) but is hosted on the softwares own server and does not cost me to run, please let me know. eCrater is the only truly FREE one I have found so far.

I got a 6ft stick in yesterday of Delrin and should get to make some tonight.


----------



## benchmade_boy (Nov 11, 2006)

oregonshooter said:


> I got a 6ft stick in yesterday of Delrin and should get to make some tonight.


wow i never knew you bought it from the ft thats cravy how many can you make from 6ft? and did you lower your prices on the tailcaps seems like they were 20 shipped now the 15 does that include shipping?


----------



## oregonshooter (Nov 11, 2006)

I cut the 6ft into 18" pieces of that I get about 10-12 caps. 
So ~40-48 out of 6ft. 

6ft of material costs ~$26.00/44=.59¢ a piece
Envelopes are $8.00 for 12 = .67¢
Shipping CONUS = .63¢
================
$1.89 for materials & shipping
$18.11 for time (~ 1hr)
= $20.00 retail

I lowered it to $15.00 because I can make them faster now than I did when I started, and I'm doing batches of five.

Material is nothing, my time is what ya pay for. $15.00 is the lowest I felt it was worth continuing them for though. If you notice, I don't make them very often anymore because frankly it's boring.  When I get another batch done I will offer anyone who bought one at $20.00 there next one(s) at $10.00 to match the new price. (sorry no refunds, I spent the money on a trip to Hawaii. j/k)


----------



## benchmade_boy (Nov 11, 2006)

jim- i was not saying it was not worth it heck i think you should raise your price not lower it. any way i just wanted to make it clear that i was not saying it was worth it i think you make some of the best custum work around. i am sure in the futeur i will be buying another but first i need to get another light to put it on.

thanks for the great work please keep it up

David Miller


----------



## oregonshooter (Nov 11, 2006)

Dave,

I know you weren't I just thought I would expand on the whole process in case anyone wondered how much they cost to make. I don't mind telling. To me $20.00 or $15.00 is too much to pay for such, I would rather make my own.  

I understand that most can not though, so I'll keep making them as long as people want them. I'm not getting rich off the deal, but I think $15.00 delivered is worth my time.

When I first went looking for an answer to the problem they solve there was like (2) versions being made. One was $35.00 the other $5.00 but neither was the right mix of $ or "looks" to me, so I started offering up the ones I made for myself and a lot of people have liked them.

I think I have sold close to 40 now in less than a year.

I don't think anyone is gonna argue with a cheaper price though.


----------



## revolvergeek (Nov 11, 2006)

Are there any of the smooth-finish seconds left available? I could use a couple of those to experiment with.

Thanks,
Danny


----------



## oregonshooter (Nov 11, 2006)

Danny,

(1) normal Delrin knurled.


----------



## FiftyCalAl (Nov 11, 2006)

Jim,

I was so impressed with your work I am getting another A2!

Also these are supposed to fit the KROMA I just got - it appears to be the proper fit, not sure if it fits quite as 'deep' as in the A2 though (waterproofness issue with the pushbutton-seems okay though). Regardless, when you get the new batch done, I want to outfit my new lights plus have a back up; so - order in for 3 more knurled please. (I think I PayPaled last time but beleiev you no longer use them) Email me when you get them and how you'd like payment (your site is down ). Thanks for such a great product!

Alan
dubrowning(AT)refugemail.com


----------



## oregonshooter (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks for the props Fifty, I changed the old webpage to redirect you to the right one and added it to my sigline again. I was waiting because I was not sure I would stay with this storefront, but it seems to be the best free one I've found so far.

http://store.oregonshooter.com

Give me a report on the Kroma, I might be able to adjust the threads to it easily if the outer diameter and rest is OK.

There is only one (1) knurled A2 left right now, so don't order more than that if you do or you will have to be put on the backorder list.

Should have more than enough done by weeks end though.

I don't use PayPal anymore, but might try checkout.google.com to allow CC purchases, I need to get a CC myself though to setup the account with them so may be a while. MO or gearpay.com works for now.


----------



## FiftyCalAl (Nov 15, 2006)

After reviewing the KROMA again, I can say that the factory tailcap screw for the A2 and the KROMA is exactly the same piece. Your tailcap fits the same in the threads of the A2 and the KROMA. Does anyone know (for sure) what type of 'adhesive' SF puts on the threads of the A2 and KROMA (delrin) and the E series (metal ring)?


----------



## oregonshooter (Nov 15, 2006)

Not sure what they put on it, but on the A2's it's hit and miss. I think it's more sloppy overspill that sticks them on tight than intentional gluing. My A2 ring came out with little pressure, but I've heard nightmares on this board about other's experience.

I think the best option will likely be to "boil" the cap in a ziplock baggy for 10 minutes then try to turn it with needle nose pliers.


----------



## leukos (Nov 16, 2006)

oregonshooter said:


> Not sure what they put on it, but on the A2's it's hit and miss. I think it's more sloppy overspill that sticks them on tight than intentional gluing. My A2 ring came out with little pressure, but I've heard nightmares on this board about other's experience.


 
I'll concur with OR, only one of my three A2 tailcaps gave me difficulty, but it was the one with the lowest serial number. Inspection of that tailcap did reveal sloppy glue work.


----------



## FiftyCalAl (Nov 16, 2006)

I guess my point is this - if SF thought the retaining ring should be glued in for retention purpose, I'd like to know what adhesive they use/recommend so I can have that "warm fuzzy" about not accidentally losing the guard. Granted, they *SF* may have gotten sloppy with some applications - I just want to know what it is so that I may apply it myself to OS'tailguards and theones I got from Nekomane for the E series.


----------



## oregonshooter (Nov 16, 2006)

OK I've put on my "lab hat" tonight and decided to test the water tightness of my tail bezels. 

I have just placed my A2 in a pipe full of water and will be taking it out in an hour to see if there was any leakage into the battery compartment (I did remove them for the test) via the rubber cap.

This is a "live" test gentlemen, we have a "Go!" LOL

Now I realize this is no the 10M test that SF says their factory seal is for, but would be more than enough for dropping the light into a puddle and looking for it for a few minutes. I'm not brave enough to add 14psi to the pipe yet.  

Results will be up in a hour. Sorry no pics, I'm at work! LOL


----------



## benighted (Nov 16, 2006)

I tested my red A2 in the sink for waterproofness before I switched to your tailguard and it did leak a little. I never tested it with the new tailguard though...

Also the stock ring on one of my A2's nearly disintegrated when I was removing it so theres no going back now(not that I would).


----------



## oregonshooter (Nov 16, 2006)

Test results are in!

1hr underwater = no leaks, not even moisture under the rubber cap.


----------



## AggiePhil (Nov 17, 2006)

How do you install these things? I can't see how that part of the light even comes apart.


----------



## oregonshooter (Nov 17, 2006)

It's hard to describe, but I believe this thread has a couple attempts from people who have done it.

I'm gonna try to get a video done of the install this Monday when I get a day off from work.

Basically you use the tips of a pair of long small needle nose pliers to twist the existing ring out of the back of the light then thread the new one in.


----------



## benchmade_boy (Nov 17, 2006)

or a food set of medical forcips work great they are smaller than needle nose pliers.


----------



## dizzy (Nov 17, 2006)

Snap ring pliers are my tool of choice for this task, but what ever you have that fits in the grooves fairly tightly will work. Just be careful not to stab yourself in the hand when it breaks loose.


----------



## FiftyCalAl (Nov 17, 2006)

I just got off the phone with SF customer service /technical today. Here is the summary of the answers they gave to my questions. I am copying this in several threads that deal with these questions.

They suggested using a silicone based grease for their O-rings. I asked if "dielectric" would work, like you find in the auto parts stores. He said "that's perfect, it is silicone based". He said applying a thin coat to the threads is not necessary but may help some "tight, new " lights, just be sure to wipe off all the stuff until you don't even see the grease.

Here is the answer to the big question of what adhesive is used to secure the tali cap retention rings - "echobond". He said it is not just a simple suoer glue, but a 'super' super glue that they use just to secure the rings. The rings should remain tightto keep the rubber boot tight in order to ensure watertightness, but the glue is not essential, they just want to make sure that it doesn't accidentally work its way loose and a failure occur - that is why they glue the rings. He said that ECHOBOND is not readily available and is difficult to find.

Well, there it is folks, the answer to the question myself and hundreds other have asked. ECHOBOND - wonder where you find this stuff?


----------



## leukos (Nov 18, 2006)

I've noticed that the rubber boot switch is glued well, but if the retaining ring is supposed to be glued as well, then I am underwhelmed with this "super, super glue" as at least two retaining rings came loose rather easily.


----------



## AggiePhil (Dec 27, 2006)

I got mine today. How do I install it on my L2 though? :-?


----------



## benchmade_boy (Dec 27, 2006)

AggiePhil said:


> I got mine today. How do I install it on my L2 though? :-?


take some snap ring pliers and unscrew the retaning ring then screw it in.


----------



## AggiePhil (Dec 27, 2006)

I don't know what snap ring pliers are, but I just got it with some needle nose pliers. THanks.


----------



## benchmade_boy (Dec 27, 2006)

AggiePhil said:


> I don't know what snap ring pliers are, but I just got it with some needle nose pliers. THanks.


di the pliers work? thats what i started i out with then i got some snap rings and they are 100% better.


----------



## Valpo Hawkeye (Dec 27, 2006)

Just received my delrin switch guard yesterday. Kudos to oregonshooter for a great idea and great craftsmanship. Definitely makes the light more pocketable without having to always completely lock out the tail!


----------



## benchmade_boy (Dec 27, 2006)

Valpo Hawkeye said:


> Just received my delrin switch guard yesterday. Kudos to oregonshooter for a great idea and great craftsmanship. Definitely makes the light more pocketable without having to always completely lock out the tail!


i thought you sold your L1? am i wrong?


----------



## Valpo Hawkeye (Dec 27, 2006)

benchmade_boy said:


> i thought you sold your L1? am i wrong?



Out with the old and in with the new (or actually, in this case out with the new TIR and in with the Old flooder).


----------



## milkyspit (Dec 27, 2006)

I've got OregonShooter delrin tailguards on both my Milky L1 lights and on my brand new Kroma. Yippee!
:bow: :bow: :bow:


----------



## Valpo Hawkeye (Dec 27, 2006)

milkyspit said:


> I've got OregonShooter delrin tailguards on both my Milky L1 lights and on my brand new Kroma. Yippee!
> :bow: :bow: :bow:



I read in another post that the Kroma tail and the A2/L2/L1 are different sizes. Are there different size OS tail guards, or are the Kroma and A2/L2/L1 tails, in fact, the same?


----------



## benchmade_boy (Dec 27, 2006)

Valpo Hawkeye said:


> I read in another post that the Kroma tail and the A2/L2/L1 are different sizes. Are there different size OS tail guards, or are the Kroma and A2/L2/L1 tails, in fact, the same?


again this is what i have herd. the kroma tialcap IS differnt than the L1/L2/A2 the kroma tailcap will fit on the L5/U2 that size tailcap. but for some reason the tailcap switch bezel that oregonshooter make for the L2/L1/A2 WILL also fit on the kroma tailcap. make sence?


----------



## milkyspit (Dec 27, 2006)

Valpo Hawkeye said:


> I read in another post that the Kroma tail and the A2/L2/L1 are different sizes. Are there different size OS tail guards, or are the Kroma and A2/L2/L1 tails, in fact, the same?



I think the confusion comes because we're talking about two different parts of the tailswitch. Let's call the part that threads onto the body the *"body threading"* and the part where the retaining ring holds the rubber boot in place the *"boot threading."*

A2, L1, and L2 all have the same body threading... they're Acme threaded (for those who know that that is!)

Kroma has different body threading... it's NOT Acme threaded, and the body diameter is wider.

All four lights (A2, L1, L2, and Kroma) have the same boot threading.

Bottom line here is that we can use the OregonShooter tailguards on all four lights!


----------



## benchmade_boy (Dec 27, 2006)

thank you for clearing that up milky

you are The man:bow::bow:


----------



## oregonshooter (Oct 1, 2007)

Last chance to get these....

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?p=2069652#post2069652


----------

