# Nitecore EX-10 Dissected, P7'd, Then R2'd! *Picture Heavy*



## darkzero (Jul 2, 2008)

Kids, don't try this at home! :laughing:

I sure am glad I have a EX-10! Here's mine under surgery. 

Bezel came off with ease! No tools needed, used my bare hands with little force. Careful, the bezel's edge is sharp! Um,.... do I hear someone making a crenelated bezel? 

The 13mm mcpcb is not even epoxied, thermal grease only. This is way too easy, damn I love this light! 

Uh oh....It's modding time! :naughty:


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## darkzero (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

The melting of stock wiring really bothered me so I rewired it using teflon wire. While I was at it, might as well take pics of the driver.

With a little heat the driver pops right out. It seems like it'm mostly pressed in rather than glued in. There was very little glue on mine.


















The P7 was cool but I choose to keep a R2 in mine. Oops, too much thermal grease, need to clean that up.  
Well Artic Silver 5 does add 5 lumens right?

R2/WG







If anyone's interested I'll post beamshots & lux measurements compared to a P2D Q5

Thanks for looking. :wave:


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## gunga (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

Excellent! I really love it when you can get an easily modable cree light! No expoxy, and a star board! 

Looking forward to more pics!


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## enLIGHTenment (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

Could you measure the reflector part (photo #2) and optical window? I want to see if there's any readily available reflectors or diffusion lenses in the right size to clean up the beam.

Thanks.


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## darkzero (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



enLIGHTenment said:


> Could you measure the reflector part (photo #2) and optical window? I want to see if there's any readily available reflectors or diffusion lenses in the right size to clean up the beam.
> 
> Thanks.


 
Diameter: 18.40mm 
Height: 13.28mm
Optical Window: 14.8mm
Lens: 18.36mm x 1.03mm


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## 1 what (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

Yes baby...YES!
Get a brand new model and tear it apart.
.


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## rayman (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

That's nice. Then I don't have to do it with mine :huh:.

rayman


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## olrac (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

Hey Will,
Am I going to see this light show up wering a P7 in the next few days :nana:


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## MikeG1P315 (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

Hey! Great pics!

Anyone know if a K2 TFFC would fit in there and within the range of power specs? Just curious for future reference.


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## enLIGHTenment (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



darkzero said:


> Diameter: 18.40mm
> Height: 13.28mm
> Optical Window: 14.8mm
> Lens: 18.36mm x 1.03mm



Not a lot of space to work with.

Looks like the only easy way to improve the EX10 beam would be to apply a diffusion coating to the inside of the window.

There's not enough room to fit an off-the-shelf TIR optic or an McR-17 without turning the optic/reflector down to size and/or altering the EX10's bezel ring.


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## SilentK (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

i think i see the begining of a P7 light! :devil: i think that this will be a great mod host, milkyspit might be able to whip up something nice.


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## chimo (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

I was curious about the switching mechanism and was hoping someone would do this. Thanks!! 

Paul


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## TexLite (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



darkzero said:


> Diameter: 18.40mm
> Height: 13.28mm
> Optical Window: 14.8mm
> Lens: 18.36mm x 1.03mm


 
Hi Will,

What about the inset on the rear of the reflector?

The reason I ask is that measurement will be the total length fron lens to LED if a McR or another reflector is used.

Thanks,
Michael


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## RyanA (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

How about seeing if the nitecore extreme driver will work


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## high-side (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

Darkzero,
Great images, and info!:thumbsup:
I can't wait for mine to arrive.
If I end up with loser in the LED lottery, I'll be modding it with a U2SWOI SSC P4 and a McR18S
Now, who's going to make that PEU-type stainless or ti crenulated bezel?


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## tricker (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



high-side said:


> Darkzero,
> Great images, and info!:thumbsup:
> I can't wait for mine to arrive.
> If I end up with loser in the LED lottery, I'll be modding it with a U2SWOI SSC P4 and a McR18S
> Now, who's going to make that PEU-type stainless or ti crenulated bezel?



they aren't going with the lottery too much....they picked WC


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## RyanA (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

Impact bezel would be kinda useless on the ex10. The light is too short to make contact with the thumb and protrude from the pinky side of the hand. And putting your thumb inside your fist is just a plain bad idea.


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## MorpheusT1 (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

:twothumbs


Thanks for the Pics Will.
May come in handy one day :naughty:



Benny


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## matrixshaman (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



MikeG1P315 said:


> Hey! Great pics!
> 
> Anyone know if a K2 TFFC would fit in there and within the range of power specs? Just curious for future reference.



Yes thanks for the pics. But why would you want to put a less effecient LED in that generally needs more current for the same amount of light IIRC. And one that is nearly impossible to get since they recalled most of them.


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## darkzero (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



MorpheusT1 said:


> :twothumbs
> 
> 
> Thanks for the Pics Will.
> ...


 
No thank you! Wouldn't have even been possible if it weren't for you! :thumbsup:


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## nanotech17 (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



MikeG1P315 said:


> Hey! Great pics!
> 
> Anyone know if a K2 TFFC would fit in there and within the range of power specs? Just curious for future reference.



Are they actually available already ( the K2 TFFC ) ?


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## darkzero (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



TexLite said:


> Hi Will,
> 
> What about the inset on the rear of the reflector?
> 
> ...


 
The inset on the rear of the reflector measures 1.36mm deep on mine. However there's a raised area around the opening for the Cree. I measure 1.17mm from the end of the reflector to this lip. So I in actuality the measurement you are looking for would be 12.11mm.

Also, for the record, the diameter of the inset on the rear of the reflector measures 15.95mm. The insulator disc measures 15.90mm in diameter & 0.80mm thick. The hole for the Cree measures 6.85mm.


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## TexLite (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



darkzero said:


> The inset on the rear of the reflector measures 1.36mm deep on mine. However there's a raised area around the opening for the Cree. I measure 1.17mm from the end of the reflector to this lip. So I in actuality the measurement you are looking for would be 12.11mm.
> 
> Also, for the record, the diameter of the inset on the rear of the reflector measures 15.95mm. The insulator disc measures 15.90mm in diameter & 0.80mm thick. The hole for the Cree measures 6.85mm.


 
Thanks Will for the measurements,I hadn't noticed the raised portion until you mentioned it.



nanotech17 said:


> Are they actually available already ( the K2 TFFC ) ?


 
They're available,but what I've seen are the lower flux bins.

Thanks,
Michael


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## darkzero (Jul 2, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



olrac said:


> Hey Will,
> Am I going to see this light show up wering a P7 in the next few days :nana:


 

Uh, did someone say P7? :naughty:

Ok, here you go olrac, just for you! I was the first the stuff a P7 in an Arc LS, now I'll be the first to stuff a P7 in an EX-10! :devil: 














:nana:

Lol, I was just playing around. Now way it's gonna stay like this!

:wave:


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## DaFABRICATA (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

Thats Cool! :naughty:

Does it actually work like its supposed to?

Nice work:thumbsup:


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## Aluminous (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



RyanA said:


> Impact bezel would be kinda useless on the ex10. The light is too short to make contact with the thumb and protrude from the pinky side of the hand. And putting your thumb inside your fist is just a plain bad idea.



I'm hoping they make 2-cell versions of these eventually, which would be longer.


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## RyanA (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

That would be nice, maybe an 18650 pd


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## ambientmind (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

I took mine apart too, and for those wondering about the P7 fitting here it is on top of the cree for size comparison:





and here on the back of the reflector:





I did some polishing too, i think it looks a lot nicer now, but just my opinion:










Edit: oops, i see darkzero fit one in it already, oh well. at least you can see the size comparison to see that it will fit in theory with the proper size reflector. There needs to be some sort of reflector as the whole head assembly is held in place by the bezel pressure.


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## darkzero (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



DaFABRICATA said:


> Thats Cool! :naughty:
> 
> Does it actually work like its supposed to?
> 
> Nice work:thumbsup:


 
Yes with the P7 it worked exactly as it did originally. I used a cut down Khatod20 reflector. Actually had decent output with the stock driver but mine's got an R2 in it now.

I took before/after lux measurements & beamshots. I also compared it to me P2D Q5 which is still brighter. I post my results later in the second post.


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## griff (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



darkzero said:


> Yes with the P7 it worked exactly as it did originally. I used a cut down Khatod20 reflector. Actually had decent output with the stock driver but mine's got an R2 in it now.
> 
> I took before/after lux measurements & beamshots. I also compared it to me P2D Q5 which is still brighter. I post my results later in the second post.



I'll take it !! or I take one!!
Pm me if you care to sell!!
Thanks:naughty:


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## darkzero (Jul 3, 2008)

I updated the second post with pics of the driver. The TINY13V is the same controller used on TaskLED's D2DIM. Well after all, they both do seem to work very similar. The regulator (?) on mine looks as if the markings were scraped off on purpose. At first I thought it was burned until I looked closer.

Perhaps chimo can chime in a identify some of the parts? Chimo, would there be a chance in raising the current level for this driver, perhaps by changing the R150 resistor? :naughty:


Nice polishing ambientmind! I like! :thumbsup:

Sorry griff, mine was a gift so I can't sell it. Plus it's no longer P7'd. I could always do it again though.

Here's what it looked like when I had the P7 mounted.


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## rizky_p (Jul 5, 2008)

Nice Mod, have you measured current that goes to the LED?


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## toby_pra (Jul 5, 2008)

this nitecore looks awesome!:twothumbs

How about some beamshots...


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## 3rdrock (Jul 5, 2008)

Where did you get the teflon wire from?


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## darkzero (Jul 5, 2008)

Rizky, good thinking. I didn't even think of it. I'll do so sometime this week when I put another R2 in it. I guestimate it's only around 500ma on high. Hopefully Chimo or someone else can tell us if raising the current on this board is possible. I'd like 1A on high since it multilevel.


Toby, here you go. I'll post beam shots with the other R2 that's going in it.


3rdrock, sorry I don't remember where I bought my teflon wire from, it was years ago. I remember it is made by NTE but there are plenty others who make teflon jacketed wire. I used 26AWG which is smaller than what it originally had but it wasn't necessary for the larger gauge.


Stock wiring:


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## olrac (Jul 5, 2008)

Hey 3rd rock you can get some teflon wire from CPF member MudmanCJ, he has it in four different gauges

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/122273


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## kurni (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

Is P7 brighter than R2 on max?

I don't care the throw; just wandering about the total lumens.

Thanks,
Kurni


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## mighty82 (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



kurni said:


> Is P7 brighter than R2 on max?
> 
> I don't care the throw; just wandering about the total lumens.
> 
> ...


No. The R2 has better efficiency and should be brighter at the same current. Doesn't help putting a led that can take a gazillion amps into a flashligt when the circuit is still putting out 500ma. Efficiency is what counts here.


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## tricker (Jul 6, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



mighty82 said:


> No. The R2 has better efficiency and should be brighter at the same current. Doesn't help putting a led that can take a gazillion amps into a flashligt when the circuit is still putting out 500ma. Efficiency is what counts here.




thats why the K2 is out of the question(from earlier)


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## AardvarkSagus (Jul 8, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*

Is there anything on the immediate horizon that is better than the R2? That seems like a fairly minor step up all things considered. before I were to attempt a solder job (I'm not terribly experienced) I would want the promise of something extravagant in the gains department. I'm not sure of what's available at the moment.


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## bfg9000 (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



AardvarkSagus said:


> Is there anything on the immediate horizon that is better than the R2?


I'm pretty sure the MC-E will easily be able to be wired in parallel, especially considering the mini star-board mount. 4 dies with the same 7x9mm footprint as the XR-E.


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## AardvarkSagus (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



bfg9000 said:


> I'm pretty sure the MC-E will easily be able to be wired in parallel, especially considering the mini star-board mount. 4 dies with the same 7x9mm footprint as the XR-E.


That looks to me however that you would end up with a mother of a doughnut kind of like the Luxeon V. Plus, if wired in parallel, would it actually get any better efficiency? Each die would then be receiving 1/4 the current (if my understanding of Ohm's law is correct, feel free to enlighten me).


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## bfg9000 (Jul 10, 2008)

Does it not make sense that 350mA into each of four dies, should be more efficient than 1400mA into one? Both are ~four watts, but the four-die emitter should have nearly the same efficiency _as the single-die one has at 1 watt_. JTR1962 measured 105L/w at 350mA for the R2 but only about 64L/w at 1400mA. Of course if the parallel dies are not evenly matched the power will not be exactly distributed equally, but this is the same issue with the P7. 

BTW if you don't even bother to change the driver, 500mA/4 is 125mA into each die and assuming they use R2 dies in the MC-E, that could produce ~128L/w x 1.7w =218L. In comparison the stock Q5 delivers ~86L/w at 500mA = 142L. But that's not really that impressive, and I'd really prefer to see 400+L at 4 watts, myself (especially using a proper series driver).

Obviously no multi-die emitter will be ideal for throw, but if the dome is glass like other Crees it could be *frosted* for a artifact-free super flood. Perfect if you like a giant spot that blends gradually into spill...


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## AardvarkSagus (Jul 10, 2008)

bfg9000 said:


> ...assuming they use R2 dies in the MC-E...



The remainder of your posting makes perfect sense. I do now see that the MC-E stands a chance of being a better performer due to each die taking lower current, however this one statement still has me reluctant to consider a change as of yet. 

I'm not fond of assumptions.


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## bfg9000 (Jul 11, 2008)

AardvarkSagus said:


> I'm not fond of assumptions.


 Then look at the datasheets. Introductory cool white MC-E bins are K-bin which is spec'ed at minimum 370L/series 350mA (which is 92.5L per die) and M-bin which is minimum 430L or 107.5L each. It's probably reasonable to expect a bit less brightness from dies in such close proximity to each other (and thus having to cope with extra heat--though this would be much less of an issue at 125mA).

I think the future will be so bright that we'll easily be able to afford "throwing away" some efficiency for better CRI. All the more reason to get easily openable lights like the EX-10!

edit: wow it really *is* easy to mod this one--the mini-star board just floats on thermal grease!


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## AardvarkSagus (Jul 11, 2008)

Definitely sounds intriguing. I'll have to consider that for future possibilities. Time to find something to practice soldering on!


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## koala (Jul 11, 2008)

The SmartPD nitecore are quite nice. My NDI brass light engine is Loctite(RED) so it's kinda impossible to remove so I had turn it into dremel dust... :naughty: Luckily the circuit board is press fitted to the brass can so it survived.



AardvarkSagus said:


> Time to find something to practice soldering on!



Old motherboard, broken cdrom drives, good place to start. Unsolder the parts then try re-solder them back to original place. Work with the surface mount components first, so you don't have to keep flipping the board. Try soldering some wires to the pads. Avoid large components on the motherboard they require a lot of heat to work with.

Don't work on big huge CRT monitors, got big caps in it which may still store some charge that may kill you.


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## AardvarkSagus (Jul 11, 2008)

Are MC-E's available yet? I haven't seen any around here at all and this is usually the first place to find this kind of stuff.


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## Raytech (Jul 14, 2008)

*Re: Nitecore EX-10 Dissected!*



Aluminous said:


> I'm hoping they make 2-cell versions of these eventually, which would be longer.


 
I second this. A 2-cell version would be sweet!


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## Raytech (Jul 23, 2008)

koala said:


> Don't work on big huge CRT monitors, got big caps in it which may still store some charge that may kill you.


 
Note: the CRT itself is a big capacitor. Even if the CRT is discharged and left for a time it can build a charge again on it's own. I have got bit a few times over the past 30 years in the electronics business and the worst bite I ever experienced was from a 20" monocrome CRT that built a static charge. I landed 10 feet away from it and left a dent in the wall behind me. If you are going to practice soldering follow koala's advise and stick to motherboards. Use "solderwick" to wick up the solder when un-soldering components. I find it works much better than a sucker.


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## Edwood (Feb 12, 2009)

So, is the converter exactly the same between the Cree and GD+ versions of the EX10? 

I have a GD+ EX10 on it's way to me. I have some Diamond Dragons. I'm going to swap the GD+ out and see how the Diamond Dragons does. 

Although it looks like the EX10 only outputs a maximum of 500mA on High for Both the Cree and GD+ versions?

Well, since the bin Diamond Dragons I have are supposedly rated at 330-390lumens at 350mA (or 1400mA? Not sure I'm reading the specs right), 500mA might be plenty. And would probably get way too hot at anything higher.

The tiny heatsink disc under the DD's die is large than the GD+'s for sure.

-Ed


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## EngrPaul (Feb 13, 2009)

Thanks for the posts, folks! 

Here are some pictures of the Nitecore Extreme Driver. It's only held by compound, not epoxy.

I'm putting a Neutral White emitter in right now.


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## Edwood (Feb 14, 2009)

I took apart a GD+ EX10. Surprise surprise, there isn't a PCB there at all. There is a red anodized aluminum heatspreader emitter holder. Looks like it's just friction fit with lots of thermal paste. The reflector opening is too small for the Diamond Dragon. I might have to enlarge the hole a bit. Also, since the die is recessed quite a bit in the emitter housing, it might suffer from dark ring or doughnut effect. We'll see.

Question is, does the Cree version's converter have the same output current as the GD+ version's converter?

-Ed


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## Edwood (Feb 15, 2009)

Well, I now have an EX10 with a Diamond Dragon in it. 

The Cree reflector ended up working better. The Diamond Dragon has a little bit narrower beam angle (140 degrees) than the Golden Dragon Plus. Also, the gummy silicone dome is much larger with the Diamond Dragon, it's about the same diameter as the Cree dome, so it fit the Cree reflector better.

Bottom line, not really any brighter overall than the Cree. But much better beam quality and a nice uniform tint, unlike the nasty yellow to purple beam of the GD+. Bascially it's like a Seoul P4 that throws like a Cree.

-Ed


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## sskyy (Feb 15, 2009)

Does anyone know what size the internal Oring which holds the LE in place is?
Mine fell apart.
Thanks


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## Nephiel (Mar 12, 2009)

You mean the o-ring that sits around the LED? I tried one of the glo-rings Sigman sells at the Marketplace here. 4g is the size that fits, though it's a teeeeeny bit thinner than the stock one.

And no, the glow from that o-ring is not visible with the reflector installed. In my R2 EX10 there's a white teflon washer between the LED and the reflector, and the o-ring sits between the washer and the LED.


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## jag-engr (Mar 26, 2009)

Edwood said:


> Well, I now have an EX10 with a Diamond Dragon in it.
> 
> *Bottom line, not really any brighter overall than the Cree*. But much better beam quality and a nice uniform tint, unlike the nasty yellow to purple beam of the GD+. Bascially it's like a Seoul P4 that throws like a Cree.


 
If you have the first version of the EX10, you can turn the current up to around 800 mA, I believe. Here is a thread from CPF MP with a picture of the older circuit. If I recall correctly, can't the DD emitter take about 1000 mA?


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## divine (Mar 28, 2009)

I think the Diamond Dragon can take a LOT of current. As far as I know, it is the brightest single emitter LED in the world. It puts out around 400 lumens from a single die.


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