# Fenix P2D runtimes



## chevrofreak (May 1, 2007)

Fenix P2D - max - AW 750mAh high current RCR123: 1936 (est 138.29 lumens) (dropping to 1518 in 10 minutes 48 seconds (est 108.43 lumens)
Fenix P2D - max - AW 500mAh LiFePO4: 1539 (est 109.93 lumens)
Fenix P2D - max - Energizer E2 CR123a: 1534 (est 109.57 lumens)
Fenix P2D - max - AW 3v regulated RCR123: 1519 (est 108.5 lumens)







Estimated lumens







Fenix P2D - high - AW 500mAh LiFePO4: 907 (est 64.79 lumens)
Fenix P2D - high - AW 3v regulated RCR123: 898 (est 64.14 lumens)
Fenix P2D - high - Energizer E2 CR123a: 895 (est 63.93 lumens)






Fenix P2D - medium - AW 500mAh LiFePO4: 560 (est 40 lumens) (dropping to 459 in 58 seconds (est 32.79 lumens)
Fenix P2D - medium - AW 3v regulated RCR123: 459 (est 32.79 lumens)
Fenix P2D - medium - Energizer E2 CR123a: 449 (est 32.07 lumens)






Fenix P2D - low - AW 500mAh LiFePO4: 589 (est 42.07 lumens) (dropping to 124 in 4 hours 29 minutes (est 8.86 lumens)
Fenix P2D - low - Energizer E2 CR123a: 329 (est 23.5 lumens) (dropping to 124 in 1 minute 47 seconds (est 8.86 lumens)
Fenix P2D - low - AW 3V regulated RCR123: 264 (est 18.86 lumens) (dropping to 124 in 1 hour 52 minutes (est 8.86 lumens)






The LiFePO4 cells seem to be the way to go if you want to use rechargeables, but you mostly lose low mode. I let it run for a while once it started regulating and when I shut it off and pulled the cell it measured 1.66v. You really arent supposed to go below 2v with those cells, but I don't think it hurt it.

If you use primary cells, this light really performs extremely well on them.

The forward voltage of this LED must be pretty low, lower than any of the other Fenix XR-E lights I'd previously tested since it was overdriven for so long on Max.


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## Kilovolt (May 1, 2007)

A fantastic job as usual, thanks


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## cslinger (May 1, 2007)

Thanks much. Great data as usual.

Chris


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## Phaserburn (May 1, 2007)

Awesome stuff once again. You realize, I've come to rely on you and your work, don't you? You seem to know just the info I'm looking for and deliver. thank you!

As far as the P2D goes: I don't see a HUGE difference in actual usage between Max and High. However, the runtime is almost triple on a primary cell. It's going to be High for me from now on, unless I need a quick burst all of a sudden.

3 hrs runtime on a primary and with that amount of output is pretty good in my book! Looking forward to seeing what the P3D brings to the table...

:goodjob:


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## frosty (May 1, 2007)

:goodjob: as usual.


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## JKL (May 1, 2007)

Thanks, very interesting as usual...:goodjob:


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## Ritch (May 1, 2007)

Thanks for the great work. As a P2D owner these graphs are making me very happy.


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## ValhallaPrime (May 1, 2007)

Pretty amazing on the low-output times on primaries. Basically the light of a 2AA minimag for over 30 hrs on a single Pri. 

Man, I wish I had one of these 20 years ago in Boy Scouts. Used to have to carry 4 sets of Ni-Cads for the little guy for a single 3-day camping trip, and about every 6 sets of ni-cads, I'd have to change the bulb. This would have been a godsend.


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## Brozneo (May 1, 2007)

:goodjob: Thank you! Excellent Work!


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## adirondackdestroyer (May 1, 2007)

Thanks alot Chevro! I was hoping that you would be posting this info some time today.  

I don't know if it is possible or not, but do you think you could combine some graphs to show differences between lights. I was thinking maybe combining the high on the P1DCE to the max of the P2D? Thanks :rock:


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## scottaw (May 4, 2007)

Is anyone else's switch not consistent? Sometimes when i turn the light on, it makes the click noise, nothing happens, press for click again, and it turns on. Not every time, but should i return it? Id hate to return it b/c it seems i have the only one with a perfectly centered led.


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## dts71 (May 4, 2007)

I suggest that you only return the switch then.


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## chevrofreak (May 4, 2007)

Phaserburn said:


> Awesome stuff once again. You realize, I've come to rely on you and your work, don't you? You seem to know just the info I'm looking for and deliver. thank you!






thanks


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## Krit (May 6, 2007)

Seem that primary cr123a is very good for long run time use. Thanks for review.


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## techwg (May 11, 2007)

Very nice graphs, although from your stats i think your led was not being puched enough since the runtimes with the standard battery were longer than advertised and lower lumen ratings?

I wonder if thats an isolated instance or if they are underpowered. They advertise higher lumen so i would think this is isolated to a batch or something?

Good work ​


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## Nake (May 11, 2007)

scottaw said:


> Is anyone else's switch not consistent? Sometimes when i turn the light on, it makes the click noise, nothing happens, press for click again, and it turns on. Not every time, but should i return it? Id hate to return it b/c it seems i have the only one with a perfectly centered led.


 
Like dts71 said you can just return the switch. Email David first about your problem. The switch on my L1D was bad and I emailed David about it and he told me he would send me another complete tailcap and to return the bad one when I got it.


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## Phaserburn (May 11, 2007)

Chev, any chance of P3D runtimes? It would add alot of meat to the P2D vs P3D debate that rages on.


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## chanamasala (May 11, 2007)

Does anyone know if once one of AWs 3.7v RCR123s enters regulation on max in the P2D, will you then have all the differnet levels, i.e. low, med, strobe, etc

edit: answered in another post.


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## PurpleDrazi (May 11, 2007)

scottaw said:


> Is anyone else's switch not consistent? Sometimes when i turn the light on, it makes the click noise, nothing happens, press for click again, and it turns on. Not every time, but should i return it? Id hate to return it b/c it seems i have the only one with a perfectly centered led.



My recently acquired L2D CE does the same thing. Assuming the anatomy of the P2D is similar, try giving the head a slight twist right after you click and the light does not go on.

In my case, the light would turn on. Thinking it might be the contacts in the head, I took it off and gave it a quick cleaning (just rubbed around with Kleenex). Too soon to see if this fixes the problem, but I'd like to hear how things turned out with you

Francis


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## techwg (May 12, 2007)

i think you would need a higher mAh battery like in the range of 2000 or more to power the light to 130 lumen and keep it there. It makes no sense that hardly any of the readings match what they are saying about it. Dont think i hate this light, this is the most awesome light ever, and since its underpowering the led, the runtimes are even better..


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## scottaw (May 12, 2007)

I tried cleaning the contacts....no problems in a week. Im just gonna keep it now and not bother trying to replace anything. There was quite a bit of black gunk on the contact, but it hasn't come back yet.


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## zerafull (Jun 9, 2007)

hi all

someone can explain me, the 138 lumens with RC123 cell during the 10 first minutes in P2D ?


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## Reid (Jun 9, 2007)

zerafull said:


> hi all
> 
> someone can explain me, the 138 lumens with RC123 cell during the 10 first minutes in P2D ?


May I guess that cell is a true lipo of 3.7V nominal output? 
(I don't know jack about rechargables)


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## Steve L (Jun 9, 2007)

zerafull said:


> hi all
> 
> someone can explain me, the 138 lumens with RC123 cell during the 10 first minutes in P2D ?


I believe the light is in direct drive for the first 10 minutes because the voltage starts out ~4.2v. After it drops to ~3.2v-3.5v the boost circuit (regulation) kicks in.


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## Steve L (Jun 11, 2007)

techwg said:


> i think you would need a higher mAh battery like in the range of 2000 or more to power the light to 130 lumen and keep it there. It makes no sense that hardly any of the readings match what they are saying about it. Dont think i hate this light, this is the most awesome light ever, and since its underpowering the led, the runtimes are even better..


 Most manufacturers rate the lumens at the LED. You have losses at the lens and reflector. The MAH rating is the stored energy of the battery, the higher the number at a given voltage will produce longer runtimes.


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## scottaw (Jun 11, 2007)

U want a real runtime test? I got my P2D in the 2nd batch david shipped, 4/28 if i remember correctly. I EDC this light and actually use it daily....still on battery #1. I usually run it on low, but i can still twist on turbo without the flashing warning. I love it!


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## chevrofreak (Jun 11, 2007)

scottaw said:


> U want a real runtime test? I got my P2D in the 2nd batch david shipped, 4/28 if i remember correctly. I EDC this light and actually use it daily....still on battery #1. I usually run it on low, but i can still twist on turbo without the flashing warning. I love it!



The P2D doesn't have low power warning, only the P3D.


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## BUZ (Jun 14, 2007)

Curious as to why you didn't show results for AW 750mAh high current RCR123's in high, med & low mode?


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## Steve L (Jun 14, 2007)

BUZ said:


> Curious as to why you didn't show results for AW 750mAh high current RCR123's in high, med & low mode?


All modes are turbo when the voltage is above~3.2v because the light is in direct drive. AW's 750mah have a fully charged voltage of ~4.2v, by the time you get to 3.2v the battery is almost drained.


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## BUZ (Jun 14, 2007)

Steve L said:


> All modes are turbo when the voltage is above~3.2v because the light is in direct drive. AW's 750mah have a fully charged voltage of ~4.2v, by the time you get to 3.2v the battery is almost drained.



I see, thank U!


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## kurni (Oct 3, 2007)

I always love your graphs Chev, thank you.



chevrofreak said:


> The LiFePO4 cells seem to be the way to go if you want to use rechargeables, but you mostly lose low mode. I let it run for a while once it started regulating and when I shut it off and pulled the cell it measured 1.66v. You really arent supposed to go below 2v with those cells, but I don't think it hurt it.



Was that in low or turbo (max) mode? I am considering LiFePO4, and I mainly use turbo (max), I wonder when the light shut off in turbo (max) mode, how many volt would the cell be?

Many thanks.


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## sgtdraino (Nov 3, 2007)

chevrofreak said:


> The LiFePO4 cells seem to be the way to go if you want to use rechargeables, but you mostly lose low mode.


 
How you figure? Looks like the unregulated RCR123s have far better runtime than either of the other rechargeable options, especially if you're going to mostly lose low mode anyway.

I just tried out a 3.7 RCR123 in the light I got for my Dad, interesting experience. Observations:

1. It was difficult to fit the battery into the light, compared to a regular CR123. Very tight fit. The battery tends to stick at various positions inside the light, unmoved by the spring.

2. The first time I put the battery in, no matter how tightly I screwed the bezel, the light remained in regular mode. All modes were accessible (high, low, strobe).

3. The second time I put the battery in, wedging it slightly differently, the light would only do turbo mode, with SOS accessible.

This is with a fully charged 3.7 unregulated RCR123. I don't think this light is one of the Rebel versions.

Thoughts?


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## lucio (Mar 23, 2008)

great job, thanks!

do you think, guys, the results with a Q5 would have been close with still the Energizer proving the best? how do you think a Duracell would have held the fort?


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