# Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)



## shelm (Dec 12, 2012)

*i3ss*

has anyone tested it on 10440's and how is the tint?


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## moozooh (Dec 12, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Decent specs, and I like the design. That strobe though, is it really needed on a keychain twisty?


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## twl (Dec 12, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I see it as basically keeping up with the modern emitter, and the light is similar to what it has been.
It's a popular low cost keychain light.

I agree with Moozoh that 80 lumens is out of place on a keychain light, but some people may like it.
For my keychain use, simple and floody is best, so I use an E05 with Energizer lithium primary in it for 5 hrs run time.


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## Overclocker (Dec 12, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

huh? what happened to the 2.5L mode??? 2.5 is a great USABLE low mode for a lot of tasks. 0.5L is too low to be useful and too bright to be a nightlight. then the next stop is at 20 lumens???

maybe david chow wanted the olights to be a bit differentiated from the quark minis...


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## twl (Dec 12, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



Overclocker said:


> huh? what happened to the 2.5L mode??? 2.5 is a great USABLE low mode for a lot of tasks. 0.5L is too low to be useful and too bright to be a nightlight. then the next stop is at 20 lumens???
> 
> maybe david chow wanted the olights to be a bit differentiated from the quark minis...



I agree with the 2.5 lumens being more useful, but there are a lot of ultra-low fanatics out there who want lower and lower until it barely even glows.
The "lumens race" seems to go in both directions, the highest AND the lowest!


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## roadkill1109 (Dec 12, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

would this baby take 10440's? I could imagine it could bust over 400 lumens in a tiny package! Talk about a tiny pocket rocket! I still rock my old iTP A3 Upgraded with a 10440!


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## ZRXBILL (Dec 12, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I like the 20 lumens for 8 hours. Looks like a winner.


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## awyeah (Dec 12, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I like this too, I have been getting people the iTP A3 EOS Upgraded version as gifts. I kind of wish they had matched those specs, although I doubt the difference between 80 and 96 lumens is noticeable. I'm one of those that likes a nice moonlight mode...  I'll certainly be picking one of these up the next time I need a little light.


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## Lithium466 (Dec 12, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

It looks like they designed their light to run with Alcaleak, isn't it ? Pretty decent regulation on high, etc... At least 20 lumens during 8h seem a bit more possible with alcaline than with Eneloop (even the new XX 950mAh, which I look forward to test !)


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## Racer (Dec 12, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

No more PWM? That was the only deal breaker for me with the original I3.


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## MichaelW (Dec 12, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Olight should have used the xp-e2, not xp-g2.


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## LG&M (Dec 12, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I have the first gen i3. It has been a good light. Not sure I want this upgrade. I use the 2.5Lm mode a lot. Nutral tint would be nice.


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## Jimbo75 (Dec 16, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I put in an order for one of these but just found out that the mode order is L-H-Moon (20L-80L-0.5L)...! Don't see the point of a Moonlight mode if you have to go through high to use it :thumbsdow; order cancelled. 

Everything else seems spot on though and I assume it could be legoed with Preon's body and clicky....oh well the search continues for a useful AAA with moon mode and clicky :shrug:.


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## netprince (Dec 16, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



Jimbo75 said:


> I put in an order for one of these but just found out that the mode order is L-H-Moon (20L-80L-0.5L)...! Don't see the point of a Moonlight mode if you have to go through high to use it :thumbsdow; order cancelled.



Aw man, seriously? That is terrible...


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## Jimbo75 (Dec 16, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



netprince said:


> Aw man, seriously? That is terrible...



Yeah, I found it in their online instruction manual :sigh: -

http://www.olightworld.com/Upload/i3S/I3S双语说明书%20最终版.pdf


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## ZRXBILL (Dec 16, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Going through 2 higher modes to get to moonlight mode kills the night vision so what's the point of having a moonlight?


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## hotlavaaaa (Dec 17, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



Jimbo75 said:


> I put in an order for one of these but just found out that the mode order is L-H-Moon (20L-80L-0.5L)...! Don't see the point of a Moonlight mode if you have to go through high to use it :thumbsdow; order cancelled.



Thanks for pointing this out. What possible reason would there be to place the lowest output at the end of the mode sequence. I ordered an S10 on black Friday and cancelled it after all the reports of green tint and now I'm probably going to cancel this order too.


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## JulianP (Dec 17, 2012)

I also put in an order, before realizing the M-H-L sequence. I guess I won't be as sad if it blows up with a 10440.if it doesn't blow up, I'll use the old finger-blocking technique to cycle through to the low mode.


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## MichaelW (Dec 17, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Terrible design: Wrong LED
Bad output choices: Should have been 1-10-100 lumens. Alkalines can't do the 80 lumen mode, so push it even further/harder. That is the Energizer L92 / Eneloops mode. 10 lumens would be nice and flat regulation with a cold AAA alkaline.
The reason that Moon mode doesn't come first, is that it may turn on, and the operator might not see that it is on, and the next time the operator goes to use the light, the battery is dead. Gets mad, curses product/company!

Doesn't 4Sevens have anything to say about Olight's offerings?


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## hotlavaaaa (Dec 17, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



MichaelW said:


> The reason that Moon mode doesn't come first, is that is may turn on, and the operator might not see that is on, and the next time the operator goes to use the light, the battery is dead.



This makes sense I guess, but it seems like a precaution that doesn't take into account how the user will actually want the light to operate. Cancelled my order and got a pretty good deal on an original i3 on ebay instead.


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## mzil (Dec 17, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

For us a turn on sequence of Moon>Low>High might make sense to preserve night vision, but from a general population perspective it makes no sense. I agree with MichaelW:



> The reason that Moon mode doesn't come first, is that is may turn on, and the operator might not see that is on, and the next time the operator goes to use the light, the battery is dead.



We probably account for less than 5 % of their overall sales, the other 95% are going to be confused if Moonlight came first, will leave their light on accidentally, and their alkalines will leak in a a few weeks and cause angry phone calls, with an insistance it is the_ product's_ fault.

Keep in mind this isn't an expensive, esoteric, flashlight bought _only_ by us flashoholics, it is the _top selling_ AAA light (at places like G.G. which carry many things beside flashlights) and bought by a_ wide_ audience.


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## twl (Dec 17, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Or.....
you could look at it the other way too.
They click past High, and then they get Moon and think they turned the light off, and leave it on, and the battery goes dead so that the next time they turn it on, it's dead or their alkaleak has leaked in it.


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## Tixx (Dec 17, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



Jimbo75 said:


> I put in an order for one of these but just found out that the mode order is L-H-Moon (20L-80L-0.5L)...! Don't see the point of a Moonlight mode if you have to go through high to use it :thumbsdow; order cancelled.



Pointless.


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## f22shift (Dec 17, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



mzil said:


> For us a turn on sequence of Moon>Low>High might make sense to preserve night vision, but from a general population perspective it makes no sense. I agree with MichaelW:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



it's funny because they always say that but if cpf people complain enough they usually change. i wonder why that is. 

but i agree for most normal people 25 lumens(medium mode) at the start is most useful. even farther a one mode aaa is most useful because people don't bother with modes so no worries of mode skipping.

i would be attracted to a moonlight start because it would at least start from a drained battery compared to a higher mode. maybe i'm wrong with that assumption.


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## JulianP (Dec 23, 2012)

I just got mine before Christmas- Santa must feel sorry for people like us. Anyhow, for $23 it's pretty good. It even has a hidden strobe mode. Here is a beamshot comparison with my Karus Mi X6, both on alkalines and on max. The XP-G2 is pulling some muscle.






Here is a comparison with a few others;





Olight I3 new, Olight I3 ss, Klarus MiX6 ss, Maratac Cu AAA, Thrunite Ti, MBI HF Brass, MBI HF Ti+, MBI HF Cu+

The question is whether the new Olight I3 will blow up on 10440. I decised to enjoy it for a few weeks before trying the 10440.

BTW the new I3 can tail-stand.


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## shelm (Dec 24, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



JulianP said:


>



MiX6 beam is pure perfection. super smooth, nice transition, and perfect white tint.
in contrast Olight tint looks creamish.


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## Robstorch (Dec 24, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I just got one of these from Going Gear. They are local to me. Great light! I like this sequence of M-H-L myself.
I like they changed it so it could tailstand with a splitring that will keep the light laying flatter on the keyring.
The clip is removable without screws now. The strobe is harder to get to which is fine by me. I was going to get a more expensive Klarus but they did not change brightness very well and were harder to turn the twisty head. I have lithiums, eneloops and alkalines. Will test it tonight to see which battery makes it the brightest. It comes in a nice gift box with a Duracell battery in it and two orings. 
Rob


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## Lithium466 (Dec 24, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Is this i3s better régulated than the previous i3 ? I got a Thrunite Ti which lacks a decent regulation, and it bothers me a bit sometimes, when I found myself in need of a light and only got my tiny Ti (guess I'm not a real flashaholic !)


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## moshow9 (Dec 24, 2012)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Is runtime on max really only 35 mins? Has anybody done a test to confirm?


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## tonywalker23 (Jan 19, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

does anyone have a "red" one. on going gears site it has several pics and the red looks more like pink to me. was going to get it for my wife if it is pinkish.


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## GordoJones88 (Jan 19, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



tonywalker23 said:


> does anyone have a "red" one. on going gears site it has several pics and the red looks more like pink to me. was going to get it for my wife if it is pinkish.



I gave the red one to my sister. She said "Oooh it's pink!"


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## blackFFM (Feb 15, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Can somebody explain to me what do you need a HIDDEN strobe mode for? Just curious...


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## Swede74 (Feb 15, 2013)

blackFFM said:


> Can somebody explain to me what do you need a HIDDEN strobe mode for? Just curious...



You don't have to cycle through it during normal use, but it's still there if you need it. For instance if you have to change tires on a dark road in the middle of the night, you could clip it onto your hat or sleeve which should make it easier for oncoming traffic to see you. Assuming of course that all true flashaholics have at least two lights on their person or in their vehicle at all times, hence don't have to use their keychain light as a work light when changing the flat tire. : -)


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## mzil (Feb 16, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

The way I see it there are three kinds of lights:
*
1. No strobe.* This caters to people who think strobes are worthless, at least how they intend to use the light in question, and find it just gets in the way.
*
2. Fast access strobe.* This caters to people who want a strobe, often at a moments notice or in an emergency where seconds count. There are several applications mentioned beyond Swede74's very good tire changing scenario, above, here:

http://www.policemag.com/channel/patrol/articles/2010/06/how-to-use-a-strobing-flashlight.aspx
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?211325-Uses-for-Flashlight-s-Strobe-Function
http://www.policeone.com/police-pro...efighting-with-next-generation-strobe-lights/
http://edcforums.com/threads/strobe-use.99512/

*3. Hidden strobe.* Not ideal for either, but acts as a reasonable compromise to cater to both category #1 and #2 people, so there is a much larger market demographic covered, which increases sales.

I'm category 3, BTW. If my bike light quits I like having a small backup on me, just in case, but in typical use i have no need for a strobe. In an emergency, however...

P.S. I've heard they also freak out potentially threatening animals like bears, big cats (mountain lions, etc.), or your neighbor's snarling dog when one is out for a stroll/run at night, not that I've ever seen that tested in person.


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## jdhermit (Feb 17, 2013)

**NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



GordoJones88 said:


> I gave the red one to my sister. She said "Oooh it's pink!"



It's DEFINITELY pink...
Saw it a few weeks ago at Going gear. 
Don't know why they don't make a true red color..


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## JulianP (Feb 17, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



blackFFM said:


> Can somebody explain to me what do you need a HIDDEN strobe mode for? Just curious...


Because when you wake up in the middle of the night to go to the restroom, you want low, not strobe. I made a mistake with a Solarforce once, and my wife nearly murdered me with her bare hands.


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## tonywalker23 (Feb 17, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Ordered both purple and red for valentines for my wife knowing I'd send one back. Was hoping the red would be pink but when i got them it was nowhere near pink. She kept he purple one.


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## Swede74 (Feb 18, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I just placed an order for an Olight i3s (and a Fenix E05) today, to replace my old iTP A3. The iTP has served me well and still works perfectly, but I see a potential problem ahead, namely wear and tear on the attachment point. As you can see in the picture, there isn't much material left, and I think it's not only the anodizing that has worn off; the split ring seems to have started to eat into the aluminium, which there wasn't very much of from the beginning. I know this has been discussed in other threads here, but I haven't read anything about the attachment point actually breaking, or about anybody losing their light because of it. 

I haven't been able to find a good close-up picture of the attachment point on the Olight i3s, so I was wondering, could someone who has both or at least the Olight tell me if it seems to be sturdier on the new version? I know it can tailstand, so some modifications has to have been made to the external design.

I probably should have asked before I placed my order...


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## mzil (Feb 18, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I have both. The reason we have never heard of a report of them failing is because they don't, at least not in normal use over the expected life one might use such an item. [a decade or more, tops]

If your concern is cosmetic, well that's a different matter.


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## Racer (Feb 19, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Ugh, I ordered the red one. I hope it's not pink haha.
EDIT: It arrived right after I posted this. 

Initial impression so far is very positive:

-- Does appear to be constant-current, yay!
-- The red anodizing is a little light but doesn't look like pink as I feared.
-- It's a little shorter than the original I3.
-- Didn't realize it had a hidden strobe but I'm OK with it.
-- Love the moonlight mode.
-- Hate the M-H-L mode order.
-- Appears to work fine with a 10440.
-- Love the new clip.
-- The lobster claw is cool, but it should be on a split ring.


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## Swede74 (Feb 21, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



mzil said:


> I have both. The reason we have never heard of a report of them failing is because they don't, at least not in normal use over the expected life one might use such an item. [a decade or more, tops]
> 
> If your concern is cosmetic, well that's a different matter.



When it comes to keychain lights (and most other lights), I don't have any cosmetic concerns. They are inevitably going to get scratched, which in my opinion gives them patina. I recieved my i3s today, and took a picture of the tail area where the split ring (in this case a triangular "ring") is attached. If the iTP lasts for a decade, the Olight should last for a century


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## JulianP (Feb 21, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



Racer said:


> -- Appears to work fine with a 10440.


Thanks Racer,
I love my i3S and I haven't been corageous enough to try a 10440. In my old i3 ss it made a huge difference, so I will now change over.


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## blackFFM (Feb 27, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Nobody wants to try it with a 10440? I want as soon as i have one.


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## JulianP (Feb 27, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



blackFFM said:


> Nobody wants to try it with a 10440? I want as soon as i have one.



I've finally done it. I have been using a 10440 without problem for the last six days. Much brighter than my old i3 with XPG Gen 1. I've actually used it to show off, as noone expects a keychain flashlight to light up a whole street.:devil:


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## Racer (Feb 27, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I gave mine away in a contest on my blog FB page. Wasn't sure I liked the red. I'm going to just buy a black one. Great service from GG by the way.

Gonna pick up a Ti2 as well. What other new AAA lights have the XP-G2?


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## mzil (Feb 27, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I'm even using a _protected_ 10440 (Trustfife TR10440) in mine. No problem so far after about a couple of wee.._**POP!*

*_umm... [j/k, it seems OK, but I never run on high for over 60 seconds. It does get toasty warm so it might be risky. I take no responsibility if anyones' really pops the element if they try this.]


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## MojaveMoon07 (Mar 5, 2013)

I wonder if his XPG2 tint looks like the tint of this AAA XPG Dereelight DA3 _(link)_. I was lucky enough to wind up with one after Jay @ flashlightconnection selected one; he said that about one in every fifteen cool white DA3 models has a tint like that.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Mar 5, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



moshow9 said:


> Is runtime on max really only 35 mins? Has anybody done a test to confirm?




In his review _(link)_, this person said

"_Runtime test performed with eneloop (charged 10 days ago), voltage 1.38 V.
We assign runtime of 50 minutes with little loss. From then down fast, at 58 minutes equals Thrunite Ti (3 lumens), at 66 minutes is equivalent to moonlight of Thrunite T10 (0.08 lumens), stop the test here.
I’m really happy, it’s not bad, the instructions are given about 32-34 minutes with alkaline.Voltage 0.88 V eneloop._"


In his review, he also posted indoor beamshots showing the brightness at several different elapsed times during his runtime test.


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## yoyoman (Mar 5, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I've had mine for a week and am running a 10440 Li-ion. Very bright, nice beam and nice tint. I don't like the UI. MHL is weird. The difference between M and H isn't big enough - though this could be because of the 10440. L is very nice - very low. I just have to be careful not to ruin my night vision when I cycle through the modes to get to L. I have to point the light at the sky when I cycle through the modes. If I shine the light at the ground, L is to too low. But one more cycle and I'm at M - maybe that's why it is MHL??

Edit
I like the new design of the key ring attachment. No wasted length, very sturdy and stable tail stand. Much better than some other designs...


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## Orion010 (Mar 5, 2013)

I just got my Olight i3S yesterday. I had ordered an iTP a3 but they sent me the Olight i3S which I didn't even know existed. I love it. It seems exactly like the iTP a3 just with a better design and no nub on the bottom to prevent me from setting it facing up on a surface like the itp had.


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## Ska-T (Mar 5, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Going back to the original post, I'd like to see *independent *data on the Output vs Runtime for the 20 lumen mode using an Energizer L92. As someone who uses the light for backpacking, I'd like to see a L-M-H sequence of 1, 15-20, and 80+ lumens. The 1 for camp chores and nature calls, the 15-20 for night hiking (nice long runtime), and the 80+ for whatwasthat?.


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## Racer (Mar 5, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I just got a black one to replace the red one I gave away. The black one has the blacked out clip and keychain, which is cool. Not a big fan of the M-H-L mode order, but this still might be my new EDC.


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## mzil (Mar 6, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I thought of another reason to embrace the M>H>L sequence, despite it killing night vision to get to the low mode: Keeping one from having to give a quick tutorial to a person borrowing it for a quick task. They rotate it on, see light, and are completely satisfied. You don't even have to tell them ther ARE other modes.


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## ryanprun (Mar 6, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



Ska-T said:


> Going back to the original post, I'd like to see *independent *data on the Output vs Runtime for the 20 lumen mode using an Energizer L92. As someone who uses the light for backpacking, I'd like to see a L-M-H sequence of 1, 15-20, and 80+ lumens. The 1 for camp chores and nature calls, the 15-20 for night hiking (nice long runtime), and the 80+ for whatwasthat?.



Sorry no graph, but I did run my i3s for over 4 hrs on med with an old energizer nimh today. This battery was only at 500 mah the last time I checked it, I will run again on a new la crosse battery with 1000 mah (just off my charger today) tomorrow. But I'm impressed so far. This a close to i2 run times and that has a aa. (I will do an eneloop at some point also)


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## ryanprun (Mar 7, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



ryanprun said:


> Sorry no graph, but I did run my i3s for over 4 hrs on med with an old energizer nimh today. This battery was only at 500 mah the last time I checked it, I will run again on a new la crosse battery with 1000 mah (just off my charger today) tomorrow. But I'm impressed so far. This a close to i2 run times and that has a aa. (I will do an eneloop at some point also)



So 8hrs and 15minutes of runtime in Med mode on my i3S 
The light dimmed quicked to almost nothing at 8:25.
No Lux meter but I would say light dims a little after 10-15mins, but then is pretty stable.

This has to be close to best in class.
It will be interesting to get some runtimes from the pros


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## 1313 (Mar 10, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Is this one any brighter than the klarus Mi10?

Also whats the consensus on olight durability?


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## rmteo (Mar 14, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Ran my i3s on MED with a GP RCyKo 800mAH to 7:45 before rapidly dimming.


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## shelm (Mar 14, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

i just ordered mine from Fasttech.com (SKU:1279400) in black color, shipped with FREE registered airmail tracking and only *18.95$* total after coupon code. will let you guys know how it compares to my other 1xAAA lights


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## Racer (Mar 14, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

My informal tests done with 2nd gen Eneloops show:

Medium - 8:11: Started to dim at about 7:45
High - 1:22: Started to dim at 1 hour even

I would say that the very efficient driver combined with the more efficient XP-G2 probably is best in class, and my review which will be posted today says as much.

Olight really did a good job with this new model. Well, except for the mode order. But overall, there's numerous improvements over the previous version, and if you liked the I3, you'll really like the I3S.


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## Tyler___Durden (Mar 14, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I bought the *Olight I3 *in September. My first flashlight purchess in 10+ years.
I only noticed the revised *Olight I3S* last week. 
It addresses the thing I didn't like about the *Olight I3*,
namely the attachment ring sticking out at an angle. That's just bad design 
and should have been picked up prior to production. 

The addition of a *strobe *setting is to my mind a bonus. 
As an _'Occasional use mode'_ for most users it's hidden away enough to not be accessed unless specifically sought. 
It's really useful when getting a someone's attention, in say a supermarket car-park 
or airport pick-up point (both scenarios where they are looking for you)
Also useful for car breakdown safety. Go back 70 metres from the back of the car with a hazard triangle, 
and place the light (on the *strobe setting*) between this and the car (say 35 metres). The *strobe *picks up your cars rear brake-light reflectors and number plate and the *pulsing light* draws other drivers attention to your car's presence.
and stops them focusing on just the hazard triangle, which can otherwise happen.
You need a light to fix the car? Um, this is CPF. You've got four other torches in the car anyway! 

As soon as I saw the *Olight I3S *addressed the attachment ring issue, I immediately placed an order on eBay.
 No reading up, no research, no PM's to CPF members. 
If anyone remembers the decision process and the time it took, for my *EagleTac D25LC2* purchases
they will be totally shocked at my speed and lack of research this time.
Anyway, I ordered a week ago so hopefully here soon.


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## rmteo (Mar 14, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Would be good if they put the same LED/driver in the i2 but with the 2.5/20/80L - 20+hours on M with an eneloop. :thumbsup:


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## JulianP (Mar 15, 2013)

Tyler___Durden said:


> You need a light to fix the car? Um, this is CPF. You've got four other torches in the car anyway!



How did you know I have four other torches in my car? Did I forget to lock it again?


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## mzil (Mar 15, 2013)

Sorry, slightly off topic, but would I be better off storing a lithium or an eneloop AAA battery in my car visor's Olight i3S, regarding temperature extremes, both freezing winter and summer broiling heat?


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## Racer (Mar 15, 2013)

Has anyone else had a problem with the I3S sometimes being picky about advancing between modes? Sometimes my light won't advance from medium when it turns on. It's usually when I put in a new battery. And I've seen the problem on two different units. When it happens, I have to keep trying until it finally switches modes, at which point the circuitry seems OK and the problem goes away for a while. I still need to devise a formalized test, but in the mean time, it does looks like a real issue.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Mar 15, 2013)

mzil said:


> Sorry, slightly off topic, but would I be better off storing a lithium or an eneloop AAA battery in my car visor's Olight i3S, regarding temperature extremes, both freezing winter and summer broiling heat?





Sanyo specifies a storage temperature of -20C _(-4F)_ to either 30C _(86F)_ or 40C _(104F)_ for the Sanyo AAA Eneloop _(source)_

Energizer specifies a storage temperature of -40C _(-40F)_ to 60C _(140F)_ for the Energizer AAA Ultimate Lithium _(source)_


When a vehicle is parked in the sun, temperature levels in the cabin of the vehicle can be more than 20°C _(68F)_ above the ambient temperature _(source)_


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## mzil (Mar 15, 2013)

Fantastic post! Thanks for the info. One tiny quibble though. Manufacturer's specs can sometimes be just rough generalizations which the company never even tested, they just needed some figure to insert into a chart (or ad) and some copywriter just "winged it" after a quick phone call to "an expert" asking what they'd guesstimate. That is to say maybe the eneloop can actually go to 140F as well, without any real issue, and Sanyo has never bothered to test it. I don't know.

Anyway, i will act on your findings, in lieu of anyone pointing to an independent study inverstigating this, and use lithium in my car for fear of the summer heat.
Thanks again for your help.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Mar 16, 2013)

mzil said:


> Fantastic post! Thanks for the info. One tiny quibble though. Manufacturer's specs can sometimes be just rough generalizations which the company never even tested, they just needed come figure to insert into a chart (or ad) and some copywriter just "winged it" after a quick phone call to "an expert" asking what they'd guesstimate. That is to say maybe the eneloop can actually go to 140F as well, without any real issue, and Sanyo has never bothered to test it. I don't know.
> 
> Anyway, i will act on your findings, in lieu of anyone pointing to an independent study inverstigating this, and use lithium in my car for fear of the summer heat.
> Thanks again for your help.



Regarding what you pointed out in the first paragraph, that's a good point. My thinking is that if I subjected an eneloop to an interior car temperature approaching a _possible_ maximum limit, then in the back of my mind I would always thereafter be wondering if I compromised its longevity or runtime.

Another what I would call advantage of using AAA Energizer lithium in your i3S is that after it is too drained from use so that the i3S won't run on high on it, then you can use it for many more hours in a Fenix E01. Here some detailed runtime charts _(link)_

I had come across an interesting discussion _(link)_ about high temperature and lithium AA/AAA batteries; the knowledgeable people therein said that for lithium AA/AAA there are so far no known incidents of rapid venting with flame as lithium CR123's do. 

Two members in that thread offered this advice that I was unaware of:




> > "_**Excess temperature damages the cell jacket, increasing the risk of short-circuit
> >
> > The applications sheet I found cites a thermal switch that limits current above about 90C (194F). A pressure relief vent activates at about 125C (257F).
> >
> ...


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## N_N_R (Mar 21, 2013)

I might be a little late to the party here... 

Has anyone done a real/good review on this new version? I saw one link on the previuos page, I'm about to read it now, but the more reviews there are the better... I can always google, of course 

Still, is this new version MUCH better than the previous "normal" Olight i3 EOS? I have the older one and I'm desperately trying to convince myself NOT to buy the new one...  Is there any comparison review of the Olight i3 EOS and Olight i3S?


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## JulianP (Mar 21, 2013)

I bought one for each member of my family, and a few more for friends and relatives. It's just a great flashlight for $20-25, what can I say? Mine sits on my keychain with a Li 10440, and weighs nothing. The black anidizing is starting to wear off in places, because it rubs continuosly agains keys. Now it has that "working light" look.

My 15 yer old daughter is the only other flashaholic in my family, and she took her i3S to the Ed Sheeren concert the other night. When he asked the audience to hold up their mobile phones like candles, she put up her flashlight on maximum. I think Ed Sheeren is still trying to recover his night vision. She told me this story, followed by "it was the best fun ever".:devil:


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## yoyoman (Mar 21, 2013)

N_N_R said:


> I might be a little late to the party here...
> 
> Has anyone done a real/good review on this new version? I saw one link on the previuos page, I'm about to read it now, but the more reviews there are the better... I can always google, of course
> 
> Still, is this new version MUCH better than the previous "normal" Olight i3 EOS? I have the older one and I'm desperately trying to convince myself NOT to buy the new one...  Is there any comparison review of the Olight i3 EOS and Olight i3S?



Buy Factors:
* XP-G2 - how much better is the new version?
* Tail and key chain attachment is better than the nubby thing. You can tail stand now.

Don't Buy Factors
* I hate, really hate the M>H>L/Moon UI. A real shame because the L/Moon is very low, which I like. But I can't use this as my night table light. This UI is for the mass market. Most people will turn the light on and say, "Oh, that's nice." They'll never know that there are more modes. I only carry this light when I know that I won't need low.
* If you have the old version and like it, I don't see this light as a big improvement or a must buy.

I also bought the Titanium Innovations Illumina Ti (in Alu not Ti). It is very similar to the i3S. It also has the XP-G2 and most of the differences are just nit picking. I like the knurling a little better. The key ring attachment isn't quite as nice - just a little thiner and not a big deal. The UI is much better: L>M>H. But the low is not as low as the i3S. Nothing is perfect.


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## N_N_R (Mar 21, 2013)

JulianP said:


> When he asked the audience to hold up their mobile phones like candles, she put up her flashlight on maximum. I think Ed Sheeren is still trying to recover his night vision. She told me this story, followed by "it was the best fun ever".:devil:



LOL, she should've turned on the strobe... lol




yoyoman said:


> Buy Factors:
> 
> * Tail and key chain attachment is better than the nubby thing. You can tail stand now.
> 
> It also has the XP-G2 and most of the differences are just nit picking.




Thanks! SO....ok, the previous i3 can tailstand, too, so this isn't new. And I agree that most of it is just nitpicking. I also like it having the low mode first when possible....May be the new ones just have the cool-factor with the reversible clip and the hidden strobe.


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## markr6 (Mar 21, 2013)

I took a chance and ordered two of these yesterday. I'm hoping to EDC one either in my pocket or on my keychain to replace the Photon II. I'm sure the M-H-L UI won't make me love it but it's not bad. XP-G2 sounds pretty good but the tint is still my main concern - no meanie greenie please (fingers crossed)!!


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## ryanprun (Mar 21, 2013)

Don't Buy Factors
* I hate, really hate the M>H>L/Moon UI. A real shame because the L/Moon is very low, which I like. But I can't use this as my night table light. This UI is for the mass market. Most people will turn the light on and say, "Oh, that's nice." They'll never know that there are more modes. I only carry this light when I know that I won't need low.
* If you have the old version and like it, I don't see this light as a big improvement or a must buy.

.[/QUOTE]

A trick to get it to low mode with one hand.
On mine if the head is only turned about 5-10° I can just push on the tip and it turns on. (and turns my finger red  ).
So 2 quick pushes on the end and a twist and you are on low mode without losing your night vision.

Granted there is a small window where this works (over 10° and pushing does nothing), but I have had good luck this this method.


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## yoyoman (Mar 21, 2013)

@ryanprun - There are ways around this. I have to remember to cover the head and I once forgot and I saw stars. Luckily, I have other lights that I can use for my night table light.

I don't hate the i3S - just the UI. The beam and tint are pretty nice. It runs nicely on a 10440 Li-ion. No visible PWM. The fit and finish are nice. I may not like the lobster claw and chain, but I like the design of the tail and key chain holder.

I have a real weakness for AAA/10440 lights and I have a bunch of them. The i3s is not my favorite, but it isn't at the bottom of the pile either.


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## blackFFM (Mar 28, 2013)

Anybody knows if the head of the i3s fits the tail of the i3? I would guess so but you never know.

I tried to put a protected 10440 ultrafire in my i3s - didn't really fit and the light did not turn on.


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## Tyler___Durden (Mar 28, 2013)

I've just popped it onto CPF too. 
*Olight I3 vs Olight I3S (A personal overview)*


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## JulianP (Mar 28, 2013)

blackFFM said:


> Anybody knows if the head of the i3s fits the tail of the i3? I would guess so but you never know.
> 
> I tried to put a protected 10440 ultrafire in my i3s - didn't really fit and the light did not turn on.



I have the SS model of the i3 and it doesn't fit the i3s head. Maybe someone with both Aluminium models can try if the heads are interchangeable.


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## Tyler___Durden (Mar 28, 2013)

No the heads are not interchangeable. 
I found out by chance when swapping a cell from one light to the other,
and erroneously tried to put the other head on the body.


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## Racer (Mar 28, 2013)

Tyler___Durden said:


> No the heads are not interchangeable.
> I found out by chance when swapping a cell from one light to the other,
> and erroneously tried to put the other head on the body.



I had tried the same thing, took a look at the different threads, and noticed that the threads on the new one were square cut. I think the new one has a much better feel.


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## lightcycle1 (Mar 28, 2013)

I just got two of them. Love the i3s XPG2.
No complaints whatsoever. Quality units and they rock on hi. I like the mid-hi-moon sequence. Use it on mid most of the time. Black one for me, red for my girl. Red is halfway between red and pink, but looks nice with the chrome clip and chain. Clip and chain are all blacked out on the black one.
Love the reversible clip to use as a hat lite. Twisty head works flawlessly with a very minimum movement of the head to change modes. Hidden strobe is nice to have. Keychain is top quality amd secure, easy to remove for pocket carry or hat lite. Threads are silksmooth nd the new keychain attach loop lets it tailstand. Effortless one hand operation. I think its perfect and the emitter has a beautiful creamy white very slightly warm tint. Packaging is first class and doesnt look like a Walmart light if gifting. Really nice presentation package. Olite has a total winner here IMO. Not "JUST" a keychain light. I'm very happy with them.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2


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## yoyoman (Mar 29, 2013)

lightcycle1 said:


> Keychain is top quality amd secure, easy to remove for pocket carry or hat lite. Threads are silksmooth nd the new keychain attach loop lets it tailstand.



How do you remove the keychain? I can't figure out how to get the chain or triangle off.

i just noticed the square cut threads. Very nice and smooth.


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## rickypanecatyl (Mar 29, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*



Overclocker said:


> huh? what happened to the 2.5L mode??? 2.5 is a great USABLE low mode for a lot of tasks. 0.5L is too low to be useful and too bright to be a nightlight. then the next stop is at 20 lumens???
> 
> maybe david chow wanted the olights to be a bit differentiated from the quark minis...



I love the .5 lumen mode! Way more than enough to read a book at night. 2.5 definately wakes my wife up and is wasted, the .1 lumen on my Armytech is borderline too low to read unless aimed at the words. .5 is plenty to see with when walking a trail at night.

For usefull lights I personally really like modes spaced well enough apart that they can perform different tasks. For example I like my modes close enough together that when I'm doing a task I never say mode 1 is not bright enough BUT mode 2 is too bright! In my experience that never happens when the modes are spaced less than a factor of 10 apart. For example I doubt anyone is going to find themselves in a situation where 40 lumens is not enough light but 400 is just too much! Usually a factor of 20X is fine... I sometimes found for reading in bed my scorpion firefly didn't have a mode that worked well. The firefly was about .15 lumens and the lowest of the variable (next up) was 40ish and way too bright - though that is closer to increasing lumens 250 times! 

I think AAA lights with multi modes should include a low enough mode that doesn't bother other people at night.


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## rickypanecatyl (Mar 29, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Random warning on the light

I was carrying one hanging upside down from the keychain clip to a D hook on a backpack for a few days in the jungle. It was fine for 3 days but somehow the head twisted itself loose and now all I have the battery compartment and keychain hook.


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## lightcycle1 (Mar 29, 2013)

yoyoman said:


> How do you remove the keychain? I can't figure out how to get the chain or triangle off.



Triangle doesnt come off. Permanently attatched, possibly welded shut. Litle tiny lobsterclaw clasp at the triangle loop, depress the little metal nib protrusion to open. Almost like a necklace clasp. I'm sure youve handled one of those of you have a wife or GF. 



Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2


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## lightcycle1 (Mar 29, 2013)

> I think AAA lights with multi modes should include a low enough mode that doesn't bother other people at night.



Disagree. The low is perfect on this light.


Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2


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## RedForest UK (Mar 29, 2013)

lightcycle1 said:


> Triangle doesnt come off. Permanently attatched, possibly welded shut. /QUOTE]
> 
> Mine came off easily enough. You have to pull one side of the base of the triangle out sideways from the little tube over that side.


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## lightcycle1 (Mar 29, 2013)

Why pull the triangle when you can just disconnect the chain clasp??

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2


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## N_N_R (Mar 30, 2013)

lightcycle1 said:


> Why pull the triangle when you can just disconnect the chain clasp??
> 
> Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2




Because, if what you mean is leaving the triangle there, I personally would hate having it there alone, too 

Youuu have been tempting me more and more to order one.... I must decide today... to order or not to order.... this is the question.


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## rickypanecatyl (Mar 30, 2013)

lightcycle1 said:


> Disagree. The low is perfect on this light.



I disagree with your Disagree as I think you agree!  I was saying I love the low on this light and was responding to those who didn't like it preferring the 2.5.


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## lightcycle1 (Mar 30, 2013)

N_N_R said:


> Because, if what you mean is leaving the triangle there, I personally would hate having it there alone, too



I like it left there. It's small and doesn't interfere with anything nor annoying in any way. I leave my Olight keychain hanging on my keyring by itself, just a quick snap of the lobsterclaw, and the light is on my keyring. Quick disconnect from the keychain to pocket it. Like I said before it tailstands with the little triangle anchor ring attached. Quick and easy two options for carry. Remove the triangle and now you have to wrestle it back on with pliers to attach it to a keychain.



> Youuu have been tempting me more and more to order one.... I must decide today... to order or not to order.... this is the question.



Go for it. You won't be sorry for $20-25. 

I told my GF I was getting her a little tiny quality carry/keychain light. She said no, she didn't want one, doesn't share my affinity for flashlights. I ordered it for her anyway.
She opened the box and played with it for a bit, and loves it now. No way am I getting that back off her.

In hindsight I wish I ordered the red one for myself instead of the usual black. The red one is really cool with the chrome hardware.

BTW folks I was examining the beam pattern on this today and it's very, very similar to a Zebralight H51 with the 80/20 spill/hotspot, maybe a 90 degree spill angle.
It's a very useful beam. Not the punch of the H51 by any means but the i3s on Hi pretty much lights up an average size 10x12? room quite well. With it's reversible pocket clip, this little Olight serves as a very viable backup or alternative if you're a headlamp lover like myself. I'll be carrying it for sure on camping trips should my Zebralights ever shat the bed during a trip. Clip the Olight on a hatbrim, *bam*. Instant headlamp.

I am totally sold on this little tiny light. I read some of the comparos to the original 1st Gen version and it looks like they've made some nice improvements. I may pick up another one just to put it away for the future. :naughty::naughty:


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## lightcycle1 (Mar 30, 2013)

Sorry dude, misunderstood you. Now I have to agree with you.


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## lightcycle1 (Apr 4, 2013)

i3s Useless tip of the day:

An i3s fits nicely and clips into place securely in a AA slot of a Storacell holder. Just thought you'd all like to know. 







Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2


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## N_N_R (Apr 5, 2013)

LOL 

Btw, I've always wanted to make some similar battery holder somehow.... DIY... but never thought of what exactly things I could use.... May be I should search for and buy one .


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## N_N_R (Apr 11, 2013)

I've just received it mine in gold! That was really fast international shipping, lol! So far I'm liking it... brb to the bathroom to test it in the dark, LOL.


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## blackFFM (Apr 12, 2013)

I use mine with a 10440 IMR. Low mode is still fine and med and high are very bright. Gets really hot on high so I wouldn't use it longer than 1 minute.


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## f22shift (Apr 12, 2013)

blackFFM said:


> I use mine with a 10440 IMR. Low mode is still fine and med and high are very bright. Gets really hot on high so I wouldn't use it longer than 1 minute.


where are you guys getting your 10440? I would like a high quality one. doesn't have to be protected.


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## N_N_R (Apr 12, 2013)

I thought I could post a few pictures of mine, comparing both lights : )


















The one on the left is the new i3s, the one on the right is the old i3.


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## blackFFM (Apr 13, 2013)

f22shift said:


> where are you guys getting your 10440? I would like a high quality one. doesn't have to be protected.



I have an IMR 10440 from AW (the blue ones) and one from efest as well. Try some shops for e-cigarettes. They carry many IMRs.


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## yoyoman (Apr 13, 2013)

lightcycle1 said:


> Why pull the triangle when you can just disconnect the chain clasp??



Mine doesn't have a tiny lobster claw at the triangle. Just the big one at the end.


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## nanotech17 (Apr 13, 2013)

Just got mine - the Ti2 is slightly brighter but size wise i3S is my new edc the Ti2 as a backup together with my PD22-XPG2

Sent from S IV Hybrid using Tapatalk 2


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## blackFFM (Apr 14, 2013)

nanotech17 said:


> Just got mine - the Ti2 is slightly brighter



With primaries or with 10440?


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## nanotech17 (Apr 14, 2013)

With eneloop and alkaline

Sent from S IV Hybrid using Tapatalk 2


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## blackFFM (Apr 15, 2013)

The Olight is still hard to beat. The lack of a pocket clip and tailstand capability is why I didn't choose the Ti2 (although I have a Ti). And as I figured out the i3s is really easy to disassemble. I might swap the emitter with a nichia 219.


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## markr6 (Apr 15, 2013)

blackFFM said:


> I might swap the emitter with a nichia 219.



I would love to have a Nichia 219!! I figured it couldn't be taken apart, but have no clue how to do this kind of stuff. The nasty tint it the only reason why I'm not carrying it much, otherwise it's a great light.


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## Sir Lightalot (Apr 15, 2013)

blackFFM said:


> The Olight is still hard to beat. The lack of a pocket clip and tailstand capability is why I didn't choose the Ti2 (although I have a Ti). And as I figured out the i3s is really easy to disassemble. I might swap the emitter with a nichia 219.


Would live to know how. I thought it looked potted from preliminary inspection.


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## blackFFM (Apr 16, 2013)

markr6 said:


> I would love to have a Nichia 219!! I figured it couldn't be taken apart, but have no clue how to do this kind of stuff. The nasty tint it the only reason why I'm not carrying it much, otherwise it's a great light.




The i3s is very well assembled and modder-friendly. If you take the head there are two holes where you can stick some tweezers in to unscrew the pill.


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## markr6 (Apr 16, 2013)

blackFFM said:


> The i3s is very well assembled and modder-friendly. If you take the head there are two holes where you can stick some tweezers in to unscrew the pill.



I sure wish I had the technical know-how to get into modding stuff like this and throw in a Nichia 219


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## RedForest UK (Apr 16, 2013)

blackFFM said:


> The i3s is very well assembled and modder-friendly. If you take the head there are two holes where you can stick some tweezers in to unscrew the pill.



Did yours unscrew easily? I've disassembled iTP A3s with a similar technique in the past after a little heating and was encouraged to swap a Nichia 219 into the I3s by your post. Unfortunately the pill in mine seems to be stuck in there solidly, maybe glued, and all I managed to do was scratch the PCB up quite a bit..

Anyway, it's a very nice light stock with great efficiency on med mode and really nice square threads with virtually no play at all, better than any of my previous iTP/Olight/Quark twisty lights in the same format. It's knocked my Quark mini AA neutral off of my keys so hopefully it'll prove as durable as that did for the last couple of years.


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## blackFFM (Apr 17, 2013)

RedForest UK said:


> Did yours unscrew easily?




Very easy. Mine is not glued and uses quare threads even for the pill. Did you use needle point tweezers?


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## Sir Lightalot (Apr 17, 2013)

blackFFM said:


> Very easy. Mine is not glued and uses quare threads even for the pill. Did you use needle point tweezers?


Tried mine, it's not going anywhere...must have gotten a glued one as well. Pity.


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## jamesmyname (Apr 17, 2013)

I got mine a few days ago. Well, it's actually for my fiance. I'll be keeping my trusty old ITP A3. 

The thing I like most is that it starts in medium. I'm sure my fiance could get used to the mode switching, but starting in medium is perfect for 90% of her uses. Tail standing is a nice feature. Also, the square threads seem to make for much easier operation compared to my A3. Runtime specs look like a big improvement as well.

As for dislikes, I don't think I like the tint very much. Also, today my fiance told me she almost lost the light. I guess she was getting out of her car and the light broke off its keychain and landed under an adjacent car. A bystander pointed it out to her. I don't know if the keychain is inherently faulty or if there were other circumstances. I threw a split ring on there and reattached it to her keychain.

Bottom line, I got the light for <$20 and I think it's a fantastic deal.


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## mzil (Apr 18, 2013)

^Jamesmyname, do you mean the triangular part connecting to the base gave way?


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## lightcycle1 (Apr 18, 2013)

My GF also lost hers briefly when it came off the chain.
It was the little lobsterclaw that attaches to the triangle loop that opened up somehow. I found it immediately, but told her to just pocket it or keep a closer eye on if on her keychain. Havnt had a problem with mine but I tend to pocket carry it more than keychaining it. Still love the light and use it quite a bit.
Amazingly bright for its size and the tint on mine is perfect.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2


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## yoyoman (Apr 18, 2013)

Mine doesn't have the tiny lobsterclaw that attaches to the triangle. I guess it is an enhancement?


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## RedForest UK (Apr 18, 2013)

blackFFM said:


> Very easy. Mine is not glued and uses quare threads even for the pill. Did you use needle point tweezers?



I couldn't find any needle point tweezers but had some which gave a decent grip on it. Enough to cause some deep scratches in the PCB once they slipped anyway! I tried needlenose pliers too but it wouldn't budge.

The keychain attachments have always been a weakpoint since the original iTP A3 as far as my experience goes. I immediately remove any attachment points which come with the light and attach a small split ring for full security.


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## markr6 (Apr 18, 2013)

RedForest UK said:


> I immediately remove any attachment points which come with the light and attach a small split ring for full security.



+1. I don't know why everyone wouldn't do this right away. Just seems like common sense. Nothing to fail and less bulk on the keyring.


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## blackFFM (Apr 19, 2013)

lightcycle1 said:


> It was the little lobsterclaw that attaches to the triangle loop that opened up somehow.




Can we see a picture of that lobster claw which is attached to the keychain?


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## lightcycle1 (Apr 19, 2013)

Probably a little fuzzy but should show the clasp.












Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2


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## Sir Lightalot (Apr 19, 2013)

The triangular ring gave way on mine a few days ago as well... threw a split ring on there instead and now it's much more secure. As for the lobster claw, it seems sturdy enough but it was too long for my keychain so I attached my thumb-drive to it instead which works out nicely. I have the i3S on a reversed lobster so it's very easy to detach when I need it. 




http://i.imgur.com/2oG4hHG.jpg


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## mzil (Apr 19, 2013)

lightcycle1 said:


> Probably a little fuzzy but should show the clasp.


Yours came from the factory with that little clasp on the flashlight end of the small chain?! Mine didn't.


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## yoyoman (Apr 19, 2013)

Mine didn't have the tiny lobsterclaw either. Good quality control or product enhancement?


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## lightcycle1 (Apr 20, 2013)

Both of the ones I ordered came with the lobster clasp.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2


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## N_N_R (Apr 20, 2013)

I also received my flashlight with the lobster claw clasp ....


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## jamesmyname (Apr 20, 2013)

mzil said:


> ^Jamesmyname, do you mean the triangular part connecting to the base gave way?



I'm not sure what part failed, but I'm guessing it was the triangular piece.


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## RI Chevy (Apr 20, 2013)

Mine did not come with the lobster claw type clip. I put a split ring with a 15mm SS pico clip on mine. Much more secure.


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## helleraizer (Apr 21, 2013)

I ordered 2 which should be on the door step tomorrow, I'll report back on the lobster claw status. Be it the triangle or lobster claw ill probably ditch it for a split ring.


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## bon1 (Apr 29, 2013)

I've read on a certain review of the Olight i3S that I found on a blog that this light may possibly get stuck in the 20 lumen mode when the battery is new / fully charged. Can anyone on here confirm or deny this fact?


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## bwillard01 (Apr 29, 2013)

I've never been stuck in a mode, & have used plenty of freshly charged Eneloops with it.


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## JulianP (Apr 29, 2013)

I fitted out my whole family with i3S's. No one got stuck on the 20 lumen mode over the past month. With a 10440 the M mode looks like the H mode, but L still works well.


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## bon1 (Apr 29, 2013)

Glad to hear that, I guess that I can order one now. 

I was asking this because this blogger said that this issue was happening on the two of his i3S flashlights. Well, at least that's what I understood after reading The Outdoor Nerd blog (I'm not allowed to publish external links to this forum, sorry).


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## N_N_R (Apr 30, 2013)

When your battery's on the way to die, the 80-lumen mode looks like the 20-lumen one ... I guess this is not exactly what the blogger meant, though, but that's what occurred to me


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## mzil (Apr 30, 2013)

^Assuming that's true, N N R, [which I am neither confirming nor denying, I don't really know], it would actually be a quite useful feature (for me at least), in that as one toggles between the three power levels, when one reaches the point where one notices the difference between M and H is rather low (or even non-existent) it acts as a "low battery warning", indicating to the user a replacement battery is due.

It would certainly be a lot nicer than having to lug a voltage meter along, in one's pocket, just to test the existing battery strength each time one powers up! 

Anyone reading this have the gear to test this "low battery voltage status" condition out?


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## N_N_R (Apr 30, 2013)

mzil said:


> when one reaches the point where one notices the difference between M and H is rather low (or even non-existent) it acts as a "low battery warning", indicating to the user a replacement battery is due.




I DO use it as a "warning" sign, indeed! : )


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## RedForest UK (Apr 30, 2013)

bon1 said:


> I've read on a certain review of the Olight i3S that I found on a blog that this light may possibly get stuck in the 20 lumen mode when the battery is new / fully charged. Can anyone on here confirm or deny this fact?



That did happen to me a couple of times actually, it took 3-5 twists to get from med to high. It hasn't happened in a while but I'll have to re-charge the cell and see if I can replicate it now.


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## bon1 (Apr 30, 2013)

Ouch! Now that I already ordered one... haha

Oh well, please, let us know how your i3S behaves with a fully charged cell.


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## kriptikracing (Apr 30, 2013)

damn I just lost mines. The fricking triangle split ring must have failed. I knew I shouldn't have trusted that damn thing. On the bright side, it gave me an excuse to buy an eagletac d25c clicky.


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## bon1 (Apr 30, 2013)

I've read reports of triangle split ring failures somewhere else. I'll be removing that piece first thing when I receive the flashlight. For now, I'm only worried about the i3S getting stuck in the 20 lumen mode.


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## RI Chevy (Apr 30, 2013)

I have one, and I have never encountered the light getting stuck in a low mode or anything like described above.


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## bon1 (Apr 30, 2013)

RI Chevy said:


> I have one, and I have never encountered the light getting stuck in a low mode or anything like described above.



Now, that buys me some peace of mind! Thanks buddy!


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## Racer (Apr 30, 2013)

I tried to catch a youtube video of the problem happening but then it stopped and I can't reproduce it since. As a computer engineer I tell people, you can't fix it if you can't reproduce it, so has anyone been able to reproduce it reliably? I've had it happen on two different units. 

Here's a few notes I have:

-- Seems to happen more on Alkalines
-- Seems to happen when you twist it fast (anti mode skip tech maybe?)
-- Seems to happen when you put a new cell in it
-- Hasn't happened a single time with a 10440 in it


I had mentioned the problem in my review and thought I was crazy until bon1 brought it up. FYI, I bought both my samples from GG. The problem seemed to go away on the first one too, so I gave it away in a drawing on my FB page, and the person I gave it to never reported anything. I showed the problem to my wife, who picked up the light and immediately switched modes normally, and handed it back. She said something like "It doesn't work if you're a spaz".


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## Edro (May 1, 2013)

Racer said:


> She said something like "It doesn't work if you're a spaz".



I can relate. 
Only a spouse of a flashoholic can say something that puts a flashoholic in his/her place.


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## Racer (May 1, 2013)

Edro said:


> I can relate.
> Only a spouse of a flashoholic can say something that puts a flashoholic in his/her place.



Haha, yep, agreed. At this point it's pretty obvious that I'm a collector and there's no possible justifiable reason to own this many lights. So, it's a running joke in the house when I buy a new flashlight. Every new flashlight I show her, she picks it up, looks it over, clicks the switch, whatever. Then she hands it back, looks me in the eye and says: "It's another flashlight."


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## N_N_R (May 1, 2013)

Does anyone know for how long it can last on strobe? There are run times for the other modes, but in general there are never such for strobe. I don't have any other flashlights with a strobe mode, so it just occurred to me to ask..


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## lightcycle1 (May 2, 2013)

N_N_R said:


> Does anyone know for how long it can last on strobe? There are run times for the other modes, but in general there are never such for strobe. I don't have any other flashlights with a strobe mode, so it just occurred to me to ask..



For the entire length of the Saturday Night Fever soundtrack. No more, no less. 

Showed the i3s to a couple fellow campers last night after dark. They were stunned by the output for its size.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2


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## [email protected] (May 12, 2013)

I received my Olight I3s this week and they ARE shipping with the Triangle /chain/Claw clip. I think I will replace with small ring and small lanyard. I do not plan to use as keyring light - will go in my pocket when the need arises.

>> Here are a few observations >>

>> Light Beam/output: larger spot than Quark and more floody as well ( I was looking for floody beam ), of course less throw and not as bright - I am impressed with the IS3 beam/output and when considering it's size even more so!  

>> Light Coloration: When Wall hunting the IS3 output is a hair warmer compared to the light on my Quark AA which is a nice cool white (maybe blue tinted) , when using the IS3 solo one does not notice, I would NOT call the color Warm just not as stark white as the Quark.  


>> Threads: 2 & 3/4 turns is all you get and square cut - my other lights have at least 5 full turns which I prefer for security reasons. 

>> Head /Body fit: no play between the two 

>> Knurling: None - I wish it had some as I do not plan to carry on my keyring, and it is so small it really needs knurling.  

>> O ring: It is so thin that the head offers very little resistance to turning, I would prefer a slightly thicker ring so there is more resistance and more security against unintentional turn on. I think it is was too easy to turn on one handed and expect that with wear it will become even more so. 

>> Runtimes: Rechargeables freshly charged on Rat Shack dumb charger > 
I ran them just until the Med dimmed and the Med and High were the same...kind of dimmer Med just to get feel when the High is no longer an option. I did not run till there was no more usable light.  

Duracell Rechargeable 1000 mAh (Black top Japan - 3 Yr old batt ) = 5 1/2 hrs till Med/High were the same ... a dimmed Med amt of light.
enercell rechargeable 850 mAh (Green/ China - 6 mo old batt) = 4 1/2 hrs till Med/High were the same ... a dimmed Med amt of light.

Existing lights: Quark AA, Gerber Tempo (my first LED same size as the Olight I3s) , Petzel 4 bulb headlamp, Coast cheepo $6 almost disposable, MAG 2 AA LED.

Just thought I would contribute and seems like several are interested in this light.


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## RI Chevy (May 13, 2013)

Welcome to the Forum! :welcome:


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## RedForest UK (May 13, 2013)

bon1 said:


> Ouch! Now that I already ordered one... haha
> 
> Oh well, please, let us know how your i3S behaves with a fully charged cell.



In the end I couldn't replicate it with any other cell I tried at any charge level. It only happened twice before so I don't think it's anything to bother about in normal use.


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## sticktodrum (May 13, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

I bought a couple of the purple ones as gifts for some cooperating teachers I've been working with. Trying to spread the wisdom of portable lighting solutions, ya know. I didn't even think to try the 10440 in one of them, so I'll check that out tonight when I get home. I have a couple of the Trustfires that I'll throw in there.


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## chazz (May 16, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Just got my i3S, I like it quite a bit, it is now my backup EDC light. Probably my favorite AAA that I own. For me, if the UI was L > M > H, it would be almost perfect.


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## Racer (May 16, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Mine is still sharing EDC duty with a V11R. 90% of the time I grab the I3S first.


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## dosquetzales (May 22, 2013)

*Re: *NEW* Olight i3S (1xAAA, XP-G2)*

Took mine for nighttime use at Grand Canyon. Also had Fenix E25 and Nightcore EA2. Olight i3s was the one used the most, and now has EDC status on my keychain. Got limited edition color from Going Gear.


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## boyett (May 26, 2013)

Racer said:


> Has anyone else had a problem with the I3S sometimes being picky about advancing between modes? Sometimes my light won't advance from medium when it turns on. It's usually when I put in a new battery. And I've seen the problem on two different units. When it happens, I have to keep trying until it finally switches modes, at which point the circuitry seems OK and the problem goes away for a while. I still need to devise a formalized test, but in the mean time, it does looks like a real issue.



I just bought a I3S and had the same problem when I turned it on. It would stay in medium and would not change. I kept trying for a while and finally it started working and then worked fine. After sitting on my bedside table overnight, when I tried it in the morning it would not work -- stuck in medium. After trying many many times finally it started working and then worked fine. This was very repeatable. It would not work after sitting overnight. Then I carried it in my pocket all day and when I tried it, it worked fine. Hmm, I thought, maybe it's temperature related. As long as I keep it in my pocket, it works fine. So I took it out of my pocket and put in in the refrig for a few minutes to cool it off. Sure enough when it was cool it was stuck in medium mode. If I warmed it up with my hands for a minute, then it would work fine again. This was very repeatable. I even tried just cooling the flashlight head without the battery and got the same results. I think the problem is temperature related. Something in the electronics does not work when it gets cool. I've tried with both eneloop and alkaline battery and get the same results. I haven't contacted the company yet. I'd be interested to know if anyone else has the same problem and can duplicate this test.


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## Racer (May 27, 2013)

boyett said:


> I just bought a I3S and had the same problem when I turned it on. It would stay in medium and would not change. I kept trying for a while and finally it started working and then worked fine. After sitting on my bedside table overnight, when I tried it in the morning it would not work -- stuck in medium. After trying many many times finally it started working and then worked fine. This was very repeatable. It would not work after sitting overnight. Then I carried it in my pocket all day and when I tried it, it worked fine. Hmm, I thought, maybe it's temperature related. As long as I keep it in my pocket, it works fine. So I took it out of my pocket and put in in the refrig for a few minutes to cool it off. Sure enough when it was cool it was stuck in medium mode. If I warmed it up with my hands for a minute, then it would work fine again. This was very repeatable. I even tried just cooling the flashlight head without the battery and got the same results. I think the problem is temperature related. Something in the electronics does not work when it gets cool. I've tried with both eneloop and alkaline battery and get the same results. I haven't contacted the company yet. I'd be interested to know if anyone else has the same problem and can duplicate this test.



Interesting! Mine just did that the other night. Come to think of it, it was kind of chilly. I was sitting in the bathtub looking at the seal on the toilet and it wouldn't go out of medium. I tried it about 15 minutes later (room warmed up?) and it worked. And the first unit that seemed to do that more often was before spring. And the problem doesn't seem to happen at all with a 10440. You may be on to something. Either way, I'm convinced it's a real problem. I hope once it's figured out that Olight addresses the issue.


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## mzil (May 27, 2013)

Those of you with the "stuck in medium problem" problem, what voltage is the battery when this occurs?


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## Swede74 (May 27, 2013)

I put my Olight i3s, iTP A3 EOS upgraded, and Xtar WK25 in the freezer for a couple of hours. They all had freshly charged Gen 2 NiMH cells (GP ReCyko and Varta) and I can confirm that the Olight i3s fails to advance through modes when it gets too cold. The problem didn't last long though, after twisting the head 10-15 times (about one minute out of the freezer, in my hand) full functionality was restored 

The other two lights were not affected at all by the low temperature. (The Xtar has a clicky tail switch, but you change modes by switching the light on and off, so it seemed like a good idea to include it in the test. And a good excuse to play with it for a while)


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## CyberCT (May 27, 2013)

Disappointed that Fenix has not made an XPG-2 version of their LD01, I'm looking for another keychain light to use the latest XPG technology. I love my LD01 but it's using the XPE LED which is ancient. It goes M(30l)-L(3l)-H(72l). I love how it starts on medium, which is the most useful for daily tasks. If I want the highest output (which is necessary sometimes) I just twist twice more. I wish the low were lower, and on this Olight it seems to be.


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## Racer (May 28, 2013)

I asked them on their Facebook page if they had any plans to update the LD01 with an XP-G2 and they said there were no plans to update it. I hope they change their minds. But these AAA lights are probably small potatoes to them.


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## bon1 (May 28, 2013)

Swede74 said:


> I put my Olight i3s, iTP A3 EOS upgraded, and Xtar WK25 in the freezer for a couple of hours. They all had freshly charged Gen 2 NiMH cells (GP ReCyko and Varta) and I can confirm that the Olight i3s fails to advance through modes when it gets too cold. The problem didn't last long though, after twisting the head 10-15 times (about one minute out of the freezer, in my hand) full functionality was restored
> 
> The other two lights were not affected at all by the low temperature. (The Xtar has a clicky tail switch, but you change modes by switching the light on and off, so it seemed like a good idea to include it in the test. And a good excuse to play with it for a while)



I appreciate your taking the time to test this. Would you mind redoing this test, but this time using a warm cell instead of a "frozen one"? The idea behind this would be to test whether the flashlight refuses to change modes when the flashlight itself is very cold or the cell inside the flashlight is cold.


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## Swede74 (May 28, 2013)

bon1 said:


> I appreciate your taking the time to test this. Would you mind redoing this test, but this time using a warm cell instead of a "frozen one"? The idea behind this would be to test whether the flashlight refuses to change modes when the flashlight itself is very cold or the cell inside the flashlight is cold.



I don't mind at all  Back in the freezer they go - without the cells this time. Update in ~2 hours.


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## bon1 (May 28, 2013)

Swede74 said:


> I don't mind at all  Back in the freezer they go - without the cells this time. Update in ~2 hours.



That's amazing, thank you very much!


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## Swede74 (May 28, 2013)

I have retested, this time with a ~20 C (room temperature) cell and the Olight i3S straight out of the freezer. It changed modes without a problem. (I also tested the Xtar WK25 and the iTP A3 with warm cells, and as expected I had no problems with them either) It seems the Olight i3S is sensitive to cold cells, but a test with one sample really only tells us how that particular light behaves, so it's still possible that other samples do not work properly under the same circumstances, i. e. cold light + warm cell.

In order to avoid confusion: After my Olight _and_ its cell had spent a couple of hours in the freezer, it failed to switch modes for a short while; when _only_ the light had been in the freezer, it worked as it's supposed to.


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## bon1 (May 28, 2013)

boyett said:


> I even tried just cooling the flashlight head without the battery and got the same results. I think the problem is temperature related. Something in the electronics does not work when it gets cool. I've tried with both eneloop and alkaline battery and get the same results. I haven't contacted the company yet. I'd be interested to know if anyone else has the same problem and can duplicate this test.



Now, I don't understand much about electronics. But could it possibly be a broken solder in the electronics contained in the head of the flashlight? Heat expands stuff hence closed circuit, cold contracts stuff hence open circuit.

Again... I don't really understand a thing about electronics...


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## Swede74 (May 28, 2013)

bon1 said:


> Thank you for sharing your findings with the forum!
> 
> If you're still in the mood for yet another test, you could try leaving the I3S on in medium mode in the freezer for two more hours after which you could try see if the flashlight goes on high--my take is that the I3S will go on high without a problem because the battery will be somewhat warm as it's being used.



You're welcome. I left it in the freezer for 1.5 hours in medium, and I would describe the result as somewhere in between of what I got when I left the light turned off in the freezer, and the one with a cold light and a warm cell. Initially, fresh out of the freezer, the light was stuck in medium; it wouldn't cycle between low and medium as I had half-expected. All three modes were restored faster than after the first test (~45 vs ~60 s)

Perhaps I get a chance to do some real world tests next winter 

It's not a problem for me personally if I have to wait a while for the high mode, but a bit of a nuisance to not have access to the low mode since medium can be way too bright for dark-adapted eyes, especially when there's snow on the ground.


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## bon1 (May 28, 2013)

Swede74 said:


> It's not a problem for me personally if I have to wait a while for the high mode, but a bit of a nuisance to not have access to the low mode since medium can be way too bright for dark-adapted eyes, especially when there's snow on the ground.



I understand your frustration about not being able to access the low mode for this particular flashlight. To the best of my knowledge using an AAA Lithium battery should perform adequately down to -40ºC. Could you perhaps try this route? On the downside, single-use lithium cells seem somewhat expensive compared to reusable NiMH batteries.


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## mzil (May 29, 2013)

Mine is stuck on medium when freezer frozen too. Quick, repeated cycling of 10 to 15 turn ons, or so, seems to cure mine too. I also tried simply leaving it on (in medium) for 10 seconds, [once removed from the freezer] but that didn't work. [ Still locked on medium. ] Added another 10 seconds and that still didn't work. What _did_ work is then, after the two 10 second runs I just mentioned, holding it tightly in my closed fist, to warm it from my body heat for 30 seconds. I used a brand new, (exp 2018) Duracell alk with a 1.57 V unloaded voltage.

Prior to this test I also tried freezing the i3s without a battery installed, and indeed it did lock up, so my testing indicates it is the flashlight , not the battery, at fault, but a frozen battery certainly won't help matters because warming the whole shebang in one's closed fist may take longer than 30 seconds if the battery itself is also frozen.

At least we seem to know that repeated cycling or just warming the whole set up will restore it, so we have a functional work around, at least for now.

Thanks for all your testing too, Swede74.:thumbsup:

P.S. I am now refreezing for a few hours, flashlight alone, to test lithiums.


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## Racer (May 29, 2013)

Thanks for your rigorous testing, Swede74. I'm curious to see if it works cold with the lithiums. And I wonder what Olight will make of all this. Granted there's a work-around, but when it was plaguing me during the winter, it wasn't something that happened outside in the freezing snow. It was happening in my house under what should have been considered normal use. 

I predict that I will have a new EDC come winter. Maybe they'll update the driver by then, or fix whatever the issue is. I don't think it's cold batteries. If that was the case, wouldn't more than one light in my AAA collection have a problem?


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## Swede74 (May 29, 2013)

bon1 said:


> To the best of my knowledge using an AAA Lithium battery should perform adequately down to -40ºC. Could you perhaps try this route?



It's a good idea, and I think mzil is putting it to the test now. I have my i3S on my keyring which I always keep in my pants pocket, and I live in the ”tropical” part of Sweden where temperatures rarely drop below -15 C, so I don't expect it to be much of an issue in real life. Nevertheless, I hope this is something we will not see in the next iteration of the i3S, or in any other light from Olight for that matter. 





mzil said:


> Thanks for all your testing too, Swede74.:thumbsup:


 



Racer said:


> Thanks for your rigorous testing, Swede74.




It was my pleasure, and thanks to everyone else who has contributed.


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## Racer (May 29, 2013)

Mine just did it tonight when I first picked it up off my desk, and I looked at the indoor temperature and it was 67 F. It took about 5 twists before it started changing modes.


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## LowLumen (May 29, 2013)

With all this 'cold storage' issue, I put mine in the fridge for a few hours today with a 1.3V Eneloop. It worked without issue. Fridge is at 38-40F. I'll put it in the freezer for a while and report back later. I have not had a mode change problem with mine.

Edit... After 1.5 hours in the freezer, with Eneloop, mine is still fine switching modes.


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## mzil (May 30, 2013)

Here's my first test video of frozen (-15.1 degrees C/ 5 degrees F) i3s with room temp lithium primary battery (brand new)

It fixes itself by repeated cycling pretty quickly, about 20 seconds later [or was it that I just started doing VERY fast on/offs? Hmm. Maybe just leaving it on for 20 seconds also would have worked, I don't know.]

2 hours later: The only difference is I freeze the lithium AAA _also_. [Note I intentionally wait 13 seconds before cycling on/off as I had in the first test due to the time needed to load the batt in that first video]:



It fixes itself by repeated cycling on/off about, about 23 seconds later . The freezer was a slightly different temp but to the end user it seems pretty close.

Conclusion: My i3s, when frozen, takes 20 to 30 seconds of cycling before I can get out of medium. The temp of the batt itself doesn't much matter.

Whatever this problem is, it seems rather easy to fix, but it wastes a bit of time and takes a little effort.

P.S. I am going to bed now. I am re-freezing and will later test _continuous_ ON for 20 seconds, instead of cycling.


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## Swede74 (May 30, 2013)

Racer said:


> Mine just did it tonight when I first picked it up off my desk, and I looked at the indoor temperature and it was 67 F. It took about 5 twists before it started changing modes.



Do you think it's possible that the body on your sample is a fraction of an inch shorter than the average i3S? Maybe that could explain why your light is misbehaving in room temperature when powered by Alkalines, but never with a 10440 in it. My theory (a layman's theory) is that with a higher voltage, electrons can bridge a longer gap between conductive surfaces.

I just put the body of my i3S in the freezer, I will update this post in about an hour with the result. (Warm head + warm battery + frozen body)

*Update:* Warm head + warm GP ReCyko NiMH +frozen body = No problems. Light cycles through modes normally, straight out of the freezer.


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## LowLumen (May 30, 2013)

Maybe a capacitor is marginal at low temperatures. A cap is used to briefly store a small charge so the cpu can detect rapid on/off for mode change. ...no charge on the cap means no mode change.


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## mzil (May 30, 2013)

That theory sounds good, LowLumen, however I just tested if simply leaving it on [instead of power cycling] would remedy the problem and it didn't seem to. Do lttle tiny caps really take that long to juice up?



Swede74, if the light turns on in at least _some_ state (locked in medium, for example) then the electrical circuit is complete, and all "gaps" are being successfully "jumped", so I'm not exactly sure what you are getting at?

P.S. A new conjecture: The timing which considers if the new sudden burst of electricity is the owner attempting to change modes, or is simply the owner turning the product on at a later date (so it should initialize in medium, as always) is adversly changed when frozen.


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## Swede74 (May 30, 2013)

mzil said:


> Swede74, if the light turns on in at least some state (locked in medium, for example) then the electrical circuit is complete, and all "gaps" are being successfully "jumped", so I'm not exactly sure what you are getting at?


 
Now I wonder too what I was getting at...I must have made a logical somersault. It sounded so good in my head 

I had a problem with my Zebralight SC52; I usually have a AW 14500 in it but the other day, when I put a NiMH cell in it, I lost the high modes, and M1 and M2 looked the same. I put the 14500 back in, and got the high modes back. Then I cleaned the inside of the tail cap and the un-anodized part of the body; after that it worked OK with a NiMH again. I guess that made me think that a cell capable of delivering a higher voltage (and a higher current?) can "compensate" for dirty contact surface better than a low voltage cell.


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## bgyen (May 30, 2013)

Interesting information about how the cold affects i3s.

I've had mine for a month now and really like it. No problems so far, except the triangle attachment for the keychain came off. I've since replaced it with a double split ring and all is well again.


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## davidt1 (May 30, 2013)

Got mine today. Played with it for about an hour and already had the medium mode stuck on me twice. The beam and tint are horrible. The beam has 3 rings in it. The tint is the worst of all the AAA lights I have. Fix-it diffuser film came to the rescue and made the beam and tint much better. 

As disappointed as I am, I won't return it though because it's relatively cheap. Just have to eat this up as buyer's ignorance.


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## N_N_R (May 30, 2013)

I can't believe you're having these troubles with the light... : ( I fight mine awesome.


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## shelm (May 31, 2013)

Not a single report by an owner with a *green *tint? :huh:


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## mzil (May 31, 2013)

In real world use, the only thing I care about, my i3s does not adversely alter the perceived color value of objects I illuminate with it.


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## RedForest UK (May 31, 2013)

shelm said:


> Not a single report by an owner with a *green *tint? :huh:



Mine is quite green/yellow on med, low is too low to care much and high is a really nice creamy white leaning very slightly towards neutral.


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## markr6 (May 31, 2013)

shelm said:


> Not a single report by an owner with a *green *tint? :huh:



I for one hate these things. UI, quality, and everything else is top notch. I want to love them but I can't. The tint sucks so bad and varies horrendously between my two models that they have been thrown in my "junk drawer" and haven't been used since I got them.

I honestly think anyone that likes the tint has never tried a neutral or Nichia 219. I'm spoiled! Stay away from the neutrals and save yourself!


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## swan (May 31, 2013)

My i3s also gets stuck on medium when cold, but always cycles correctly if i take it out of my pocket. As for tint it is very nice when compared side by side on a white wall with my sc52 which looks green. Great output and runtimes - good little light.


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## chazz (Jun 1, 2013)

Wow, with all these people complaining about their lights, I must have gotten a good one. I don't notice much if any tint shift between modes. The beam seems relatively smooth for a light this size, no problems at all with sticking in Med mode. ( I will do a fridge/freezer test later to test it in the cold ) And the tint on my copy is closer to neutral than most of my other 10 or so lights. Now with that said, I do have a 'Neutral' light on the way and will soon be ordering another along with a Nichia 219 light. So we'll see how it compares then. But so far for the price, lack of PWM and it's moonlight mode capable, overall I am pretty happy with the little i3S. I have noticed slightly different tints with the XP-G2 lights I have so I am sure it not only depends on what bin they are but luck of the draw somewhat.


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## LowLumen (Jun 1, 2013)

I only have one sample of the I3s, but mine is thumbs up working on all counts. As for tint (I have a few 219 90CRI) it looks around 6000K with no real color cast(cleaner than many XM-L I have). If you are really concerned about tint, than look for lights that specify tint bin. The beam profile is about perfect for a small EDC; I have never seen rings from these or any OP reflector. It's got a nice large hotspot, fairly wide spill. 

I got a bunch of the older ITP I3 XP-E Q5 on clearance when they were upgraded to XP-G. These were all gifted and were in good order. I think they are great gift lights for the 'non-flashaholic' who would not carry anything larger. With much improved efficiency in medium, this tiny makes an emergency bag contender as well.


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## bon1 (Jun 1, 2013)

I have one I3S sample and I feel like you guys in posts #187 and #188. I was about to order two more I3S units for gifting purposes, but now I prefer to wait for some time see if the issues reported in this thread are common or not.

It's worth noting that my current EDC is a Fenix E01 so I don't have much experience with my I3S sample.


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## davidt1 (Jun 1, 2013)

Mine stays stuck in medium if it sits in the pocket for an hour or so at room temperature. It takes about 5 - 10 twists for change mode. Will have to contact the seller for a replacement.


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## chazz (Jun 1, 2013)

Just got mine out of the freezer (both flashlight and Eneloop) it changed modes no problem first try.


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## N_N_R (Aug 3, 2013)

Something weird just happened to my i3s .......... the head somehow got ... stuck to the o-rings and it was kinda hard to switch between modes. I don't mean really hard, but harder than usual. Indeed it as if got stuck to the O-ring and wouldn't twist for a fraction of a second, again and again with every twist and it as if skipped modes, but I was so puzzled, I didn't see any logic/pattern. It had been on high for about 4-5 minutes before that. I hadn't done anything extraordinary with the light before that. It used a AAA Eneloop. I cleaned it and lubed it with the usual thing I use (don't remember the name) and as if it's got rid of a little of that... stickiness, but not fully .... wtf I mean "sticky" is the best way t describe it, it's not like there is some glue/grease substance which can really glue the head to the o-ring or sth.


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## mhpreston (Aug 3, 2013)

Watch the key chain link. Mine lasted about two days...


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## RedForest UK (Aug 3, 2013)

RedForest UK said:


> Mine is quite green/yellow on med, low is too low to care much and high is a really nice creamy white leaning very slightly towards neutral.



Actually I have since bought a second which is quite green on all modes.


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## drewjh (Aug 5, 2013)

Does anyone know when or why Olight changed the runtime claims on these light? If you look at Goinggear: 

http://goinggear.com/olight-i3s-eos-80-lumen-xp-g2-aaa-led-flashlight.html

The old claim was 8 hours and 20 lumens, and 60 hours at .5 lumens. Most of the tests I've seen have the light burning out at about 7:45 @ 20 lumens. 

But if you look at the Olight website: 

http://www.olightworld.com/en/products_show.aspx?ProId=1806&CateId_1=EN1&CateId_2=EEN4

then the new claim is 10 hours at 20 lumens, and 120 hours at .5 lumens with a 750 mAh battery. This seems to have merit based on a test here: 

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi...display.html?forum_thread_id=78844&startat=40

where the owner got a runtime of 15 hours with a 1200 mAh Energizer ultimate lithium. 

Any thoughts? I ordered a light with the old spec listed. At old spec I should get 12.8 vs 15 hours on medium with the Energizer Ultimate Lithium, and that makes a definite difference when backpacking.


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## Racer (Aug 6, 2013)

My own test on medium gave me 8:12 on a 2nd gen Eneloop, where it started to dim noticeably at about 7:45 and coasted down to sub-lumens.


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## dosquetzales (Aug 17, 2013)

mhpreston said:


> Watch the key chain link. Mine lasted about two days...


The mini crab claw snapped on mine, and I lost it for a month. Started carrying a less expensive Tank. Found the i3s and put a split ring and small carabiner clip on it.... But am liking the Tank just about as well as the i3s. The i3s is better looking.


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## davidt1 (Aug 17, 2013)

I had to return the first one (stuck on the first mode). The second one works as expected. This light has now replaced my trusty Maratac AAA.

Pros for Maratac:

Nicer tint; better knurling.

Pros for i3s:

Brighter on High and Medium; lower low; fantastic run time on medium; Asian disco mode (I would much prefer a more practical beacon or slow strobe, but hey it's better than nothing).


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## radiopej (Oct 1, 2013)

I bought some flat top Ultrafire 10440s.

Works, but I have to twist all the way to get any light - a bit hard to do and just feels wrong. 

Here is max on an Energizer Lithium







And max on a freshly charged 10440






Definitely brighter, but it gets hot really fast.

So you end up with a really bright torch that you have trouble turning on and doesn't last long. Made me a little sad. I'll be using my normal AAAs with this and just briefly popping in the Li-Ion to beat my friend's i3S when I get home tomorrow.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 4


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## radiopej (Oct 1, 2013)

Okay, my Ultrafire batteries were protected. I stripped off the protection circuit and it works fine now. Still gets very hot, but the twisting action is easy.

Anybody know if my battery is likely to blow up and kill me?

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 4


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## yoyoman (Oct 1, 2013)

^ I'm running an unprotected 10440 in my i3S. Don't let the light get too hot. Definitely don't tailstand on H for a long period. Make sure you don't over discharge the cell. It is ok to top off the charge and smaller charges are better than a long deep charge. I check the voltage after I've used the i3S for a reasonable time and, if it is below around 3.8, I charge the cell. I've been careful and haven't had any problems. I'm typing with all 10 fingers...

Some of the other comments are interesting. The tint on mine is very nice. It isn't 4500K like a Nichia 219 but it isn't blue like some of my XM-Ls. The square threads are very strong, but they do have kind of a tight feeling. (I wouldn't describe the effect as glue, but I can feel the difference compared to other threads.)


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## JulianP (Oct 13, 2013)

I've been using the 10440 for a few months. The H setting is used only for a few seconds, but M and L settings are fine, and would definitively last longer on a Lithium battery. The reason it is still on my keychain is the hidden strobe, great for letting people know (day or night) that their lift has arrived. The strobe identifies my car in a long queue, or me in a crowd. I'm so happy with the i3S, that I have now given five away as presents. Next week I'll be giving the titanium version to a senior colleague who is retiring.


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## mzil (Oct 13, 2013)

While walking on the sidewalks I sometimes see a driver who has forgotten to turn on their headlights, a potentially very dangerous condition for both them and me and the other pedestrians. I turn on my flash to get their attention, they immediately look over at me, and I then point at their headlights and yell, "Lights!" Works like a charm.:twothumbs


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## Southpaw1925 (Oct 19, 2013)

I recently picked up an i3s and running it on 10440. Omg a little big light! I was going to buy an 18660 light as a work light, but I won't need to. Last night I was testing its throw and I can CLEARLY see from 60 meters away. Good enough for me. And it's got moonlight and strobe. Very happy!


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## Dead Goat (Nov 6, 2013)

radiopej said:


> Okay, my Ultrafire batteries were protected. I stripped off the protection circuit and it works fine now. Still gets very hot, but the twisting action is easy.
> 
> Anybody know if my battery is likely to blow up and kill me?
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 4




.....maybe only use it when you are wearing your M.I.B. suit


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## Flying Turtle (Nov 6, 2013)

I've been very pleased with this light after about a month. No problems and I especially appreciate the tight clip, no PWM, and easy tailstanding.

Geoff


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## jforrest (Feb 8, 2014)

My i3s will not run off of my protected 10440. My itp works just fine on them. What's wrong???Any suggestions?


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## RedForest UK (Feb 9, 2014)

jforrest said:


> My i3s will not run off of my protected 10440. My itp works just fine on them. What's wrong???Any suggestions?



The body tube is probably a little shorter and so it won't screw down tight enough to make contact. You could try cutting the spring down a bit (but I wouldn't recommend that as it could go wrong), or just get some shorter 10440s.


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