# Best alkaline batteries?



## flashfan (Oct 21, 2001)

Does anyone know which alkaline battery is the "best," performance-wise? Which brand is the strongest and longest-lasting? Are there significant differences between say, the "regular" alkalines and the "max" (Energizer) and "ultra" (Duracell) batteries?

I searched this "Batteries Included" section, but didn't find any information on this topic. If it has been covered before, please direct me to the right place. Thanks for any input.


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## geepondy (Oct 21, 2001)

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by flashfan:
*Does anyone know which alkaline battery is the "best," performance-wise? Which brand is the strongest and longest-lasting? Are there significant differences between say, the "regular" alkalines and the "max" (Energizer) and "ultra" (Duracell) batteries?.



*<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

If I remember correctly based on a Consumer Reports test on AA alkalines, there is little differences between the name brands, ie Duracell, Energizer and the generic and cheaper brands such as Sanyo and Panasonic for regular AA alkaline batteries. Consumer Reports strongly suggests that you buy these batteries strictly on price.

According to the same report, the Duracell Ultras and the Energizer E2s do perform significantly better in high drain applications such as a camera flash. The Duracell Ultras are rated higher then the Energizer E2s in this regard. People in this forum have reported that for low or moderately drained devices such as LED flashlights, there is little difference in runtime between the regular alkalines and the "ultras."


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Oct 21, 2001)

Last June I did some battery runtime test with time-lapse photos of UK4AA using 3 different batteries for fun and curiosity of knowing which battery lasts longer.

Three brands of AA alkaline batteries used are Rayovac Maximum, Duracell Coppertop, and Energizer.

Here's the result;

First Run:
Duracell - 3:15
Energizer - 4:40
Rayovac - 5:20

Second Run
Duracell - 3:55
Energizer - 4:55
Rayovac - 5:55

Third Run
Duracell - 4:05
Energizer - not included, run out of batteries
Rayovac - 5:55

Of the 3 brands of batteries Rayovac Maximum alkaline battery gives the longest runtime.

I'll try to do another run with more info like starting voltage and expiration date of batteries used soon as I get new ones.

- verge -


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## LEDagent (Oct 26, 2001)

Those tests confirm my observations as well. Although not in flashlights but in other high-drain devices such as MP3 and CD players. Rayovacs are REALLY good batteries not only in performance but on your wallet too!!!!

But i'm starting to feel guilty, becuase these batteries are so cheap, that i'm starting to buy more of them and using up more too. Which may be good for me, but BAD BAD BAD for the planet. I'm waiting for just the right moment when NiMH batteries start to come down in price (which they already are). I know they don't work well in flashlights, but they work wonders in digital cams and portable devices as well. And if i ever was to use NiMH in flashlights, i wouldn't mind carrying dozens of backups just to save our planet...wouldn't you?


P.S. just how cheap are they? Here in San Diego in our Navy Commasary, i can get a 10 pack of AA Royovacs for 2.55- no tax.


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## lightuser (Oct 26, 2001)

Speaking of the Environment, does anybody recycle here? If not, what is the "right" way to dispose of them? I have a hungry Light Cannon that spits out 8 dead C's aweek...


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Oct 26, 2001)

Price of batteries from my nearest K-Mart;

Rayovac Maximum AA 12-pack $7.09 + 8.25% tax = $7.67

Rayovac Maximum AA 24-pack $10.39 + 8.25% tax = $11.25

Duracell Coppertop AA 8-pack $6.59 + 8.25 tax = $7.13

I forgot the price for Energizer AA but I think they are in the same price range as the Duracell Coppertop batteries.

I'm looking for internet store where I can buy those Rayovac Maximum batteries in bulk and probably cheaper than at K-Mart.

Price is good at cheapbatteries.com although I do not know their batteries' expiration date. Anyway... batteries don't get to live long on my bookshelf with my flashlights and seeing them shine just for the fun of it.

From all of my runtime tests with UK4AA, SL4AA, and TEC40 (using Rayovac, Energizer, and Duracell), Rayovac Maximum always come out first-place, Energizer second-place, and Duracell Coppertop far third-placer with the shortest runtime.

LEDagent.... Rayovac AA 10-pack for $2.55 and without tax is almost getting it for free or that $2.55 is just a donation.





lightuser... I'd like to have one of that Light Cannon too. 

- verge -


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## Quickbeam (Oct 26, 2001)

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by lightuser:
*Speaking of the Environment, does anybody recycle here? If not, what is the "right" way to dispose of them? I have a hungry Light Cannon that spits out 8 dead C's aweek...*<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

AFAIK, Alkaline batteries do not contain any "toxic" chemicals and are safe to dispose of in your trash. There may be companies that recycle them out there. I'd check with your county dump and/or county recycling center to see if there is anything special that can be done with the dead alkalines. DON'T dispose of NiCads in the trash - bring them to RadioShack for recycling.


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Oct 27, 2001)

Test conducted by zbattery.com shows different result.



> From http://www.zbattery.com/zbattery/batteryinfo.html
> *All test results shown below were obtained by running a modified continuos load test. The resistive load (see Ohms value) was applied to the battery until the cutoff voltage was reached (e.g. 0.75 volts). The battery was then allowed to rest for 15 minutes before the load was reapplied. This process was repeated until the battery fell below the cutoff voltage within 5 minutes of reapplying the load, at which time the test was terminated. *[/UNQUOTE]
> 
> *AvgWH* = the average Watt-Hours for all batteries (your electric bill is based on this).
> ...


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Oct 29, 2001)

Hi everyone! Just thought I'd put in my 2 cents especially since some of our test data was cited.

According to the tests on our web site (http://www.zbattery.com/zbattery/batteryinfo.html) the Duracell and Energizer consistantly test higher than any other brand. Although that test data is a little old and we have seen some serious improvements in battery chemistries, even in the last 2 years, we find this data still holds true. 

According to recent tests, Duracell Ultra batteries and Energizer Titanium batteries are on par with each other. These of course are best used in high-drain applications.

In case you didn't know: Duracell is replacing all of their coppertop batteries with the original Ultra chemistry and the new Ultra's are the M3 technology, with even more capacity. 

I think that if you compare this new change to the Rayovac's for instance you will see a much higher difference than you see now in our tests as these were conducted using standard coppertop batteries before the switch.

All in all, we find that when buying Duracell's or Energizer's the difference is miniscule, but when buying other brands, the differences start to show a little more. Of course, you pay more for the Duracell or Energizer, so the decision comes to, 'Do I want to replace more often, but save some money?'

Of course, we recommend the Gold Peak's, or the Motorola's, for the less expensive brands.

Questions? Please let me know.

"The Battery Guy"
Bryan - Zbattery.com
[email protected]


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Oct 29, 2001)

Thanks for the Duracell Coppertop info Bryan!





How would I know that I'm getting the newer Duracell Coppertop battery with the Ultra chemistry? Any special marking or 'Expiration Date' marking I should look for? 

I'll surely do another run of those 3 brands of batteries. Now I really wish I have a laptop instead of this big tower. I'll find a way, even if I have to move my pc to the beam photo room.





- verge -


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Oct 30, 2001)

Really the only way you can know is by buying the batteries from a source that has high turnover, such as Wal-Mart. The switch was made on the AA's about 2-4 months ago. Unfortunately they don't have any unique markings. The only way you can really tell is by making sure the company carries the M3 for the Ultra and you can be pretty confident you are getting the old Ultra in the standard coppertops.

I hope this helps.

Bryan 
Zbattery.com
[email protected]


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Oct 31, 2001)

Got some AAA batteries from K-Mart to use for my favorite 'Arc-AAA LE' keychain flashlight. 

8-pack Rayovac Maximum AAA Alkaline (Dec 2007) 
4-pack Energizer Max AAA Alkaline (2008) 
4-pack Duracell Coppertop AAA Alkaline (2008) 
4-pack Duracell Ultra AAA Alkaline (2008) 
6-pack American Fare AAA Alkaline (2006)

I set up my time-lapse camera and loaded Arc-AAA LE (got 2 of them



) with Rayovac and Energizer AAA batteries. The Arc-AAA LE with 'Rayovac Maximum AAA Alkaline' is still running strong after 9 hrs while my Arc-AAA LE with 'Energizer Max AAA Alkaline' drastically dropped its brightness after 7 1/2 hours and turned to 'glimmer mode' before finally dying an hour later.

Duracell Coppertop AAA vs Duracell Ultra AAA next card.

Rayovac Maximum AAA vs American Fare AAA also coming.

- verge -


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## Badbeams3 (Oct 31, 2001)

I`m not sure about all sizes or applications but in the Arc I also found the Ray-o vac`s run longer for some reason...cheaper too.


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Oct 31, 2001)

My Arc-AAA LE with Rayovac is still shining even after 14 hours of continous run , though not as bright as the earlier 12 hours, while my other Arc loaded with Energizer started to dim after 7.5 hours and reach blackout a half-hour later.

I can't explain it and I only have photos for proof, Rayovac gives my Arc-AAA LE more burntime than other brands of alkaline batteries. And cheaper too. Yeah! 

At this rate of burntime I'll do another Arc-AAA vs Photon II brightness and battery runtime match.

- verge -


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## Badbeams3 (Oct 31, 2001)

Maybe the Rays put out their mill-amps slower...so it`s not as bright at first but runs longer?


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## SurefireM6 (Nov 4, 2001)

I think Ken has a point. The Rayovacs probably are no good with High Drain applications but better at handling low drain. With LED torches, the drain will be low. Energizer and Duracell make it a point to advertise that their batteries are for High Drain devices.

So depending on your application, say a digital camera (high drain), Energizer E2 would work best. With Low Drain Applications like LED torches, Rayovacs work best. No scientific data, just a guess from their advertising.


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Nov 5, 2001)

It's funny - the Rayovac AAA's I just picked up have a little sticker in the package that says "Lasts as long as standard Duracell & Energizer"




Not a very enthusiastic advertising campaign!


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Nov 5, 2001)

The manufacturer showed little confidence to their product when they say they're just gunning to be equal to the other named brands, or playing the underdog.








Do you have the Rayovac Maximum AAA Alkaline batteries? What's the expiration date? 

When I did time-lapse photos of flashlight/battery runtime, it showed Rayovac Maximum AA & AAA Alkaline batteries lasting much longer than Duracell and Energizer alkaline batteries.

Btw, can I consider the filament bulb (UKE4AA, SL4AA, and TEC40) flashlight a high-drain application?

- verge -


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Nov 6, 2001)

These are Rayovac Maximums AAA's with a Dec 2008 date stamp. I have seen several reviews where these have outperformed Energizers and Duracells in low drain led lights.

Someone probably has a real definition of low drain vs high drain. My personal experience with AA batteries is that in a device that depletes standard AA's in 6-8 hours the Duracell Ultras and Lithium AA's last much longer. From this I might conclude that a device that drains a standard AA battery in 6 hours is a high drain device, but it's not that clear cut. I have also seen some comparisons that seem to contradict this result


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Nov 16, 2001)

I don't have anything to offer as far as flat out performance is concerned but having been a diehard Duracell fan for many years I have noticed a change in this product. When I have performance fall off in a set of batteries I always test them. Almost invariably across the last year or so I find one of the cells has failed and the rest are quite useable. This never seemed to be the case in the past so now I'm begining to try Eveready Energizers. I'll let all know how it goes after a while.


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Nov 17, 2001)

Welcome to CPF "ddgrup!!

Yeah... Energizers are better than Duracells from my experience. Have you tried Rayovac Maximum batts?

- verge -


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## ikendu (Nov 21, 2001)

How does this experience relate to the RayOVac rechargeable alkalines?

I have heard they are prone to leakage (possibly from the charge/discharge cycles causing the steel can to erode over time).

Any experience with life and recharge cycles in LED flashlights?


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## lucifer (Nov 28, 2001)

Should a laser pointer (especially a green one) be considered a high-drain device?

Did anybody try to run one from NiMH AAA rechargeables? If so, how are battery life and brightness compared to alkalines?


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## vcal (Nov 28, 2001)

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ikendu:
*How does this experience relate to the RayOVac rechargeable alkalines?

I have heard they are prone to leakage (possibly from the charge/discharge cycles causing the steel can to erode over time).

Any experience with life and recharge cycles in LED flashlights?*<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I've been using the Ray-O-Vac Renewals (alk.rechargeables) for a few years, and have never had one leak. Three considerations:
-----------------------------
1. using _only_ their designated charger.
2. only using these type batts. for loads of 250mA or less.
3. allowing only relatively shallow discharge.

With these three things in mind, my experience with them has been good. Frequent charging helps them go maybe 80-100 charging cycles...And they will put out 1.4v+ under fairly light loads. -Great for powering those 5mm LED type lights, IMO


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## ikendu (Nov 29, 2001)

Thanks for the reply!

I've only just recently begun to appreciate the importance of not draining the alkaline rechargeables really low before recharging.


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## Daytona (Nov 29, 2001)

In the of battery recycling...

Are there also precautions for dumping non-rechargable lithium-ion batteries? (I wish there are *RE*-chargable Li batteries for me to dump, it means I have them!










Daytona


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## brightnorm (Dec 2, 2001)

*2d_edge *2d_edge 
Flashaholic 
Member # 29 posted 10-26-2001 08:30 AM
__________________________________________
Price of batteries from my nearest K-Mart;
Rayovac Maximum AA 12-pack $7.09 + 8.25% tax = $7.67
Price is good at cheapbatteries.com although I do not know their batteries' expiration date. Anyway... batteries don't get to live long on my bookshelf with my flashlights and seeing them shine just for the fun of it.

2d_edge,

I got a bunch of Duracell AA Ultras from Cheapbatteries.com which I'm returning because Exp date is 2003 which means they were manufactured at least 2-3 years ago and have already lost some of their charge. With Alkalines I expect at least a 4-yr post date. I got others dated 2005; more like it. Strangely, I also got some dated 2008!!! For alkalines? Who's kidding whom??

At any rate, from now on if I buy from Cheapbatteries.com I'll verify dates by phone if possible. If not, I'll shop elsewhere.

Brightnorm


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Dec 3, 2001)

brightnorm..... that's probably the downside of ordering batteries from online battery store, we don't get to know the expiration date of batteries until they're delivered. Also, cheapbatteries.com have higher battery price if order is placed by phone. 

Anyway... since learning after $$ spent experimenting with different popular brands of batteries that Rayovac gives more shine-time, I now opted to just go to my nearest K-Mart where Rayovac Maximum are available.

I'm also experimenting with other cheaper lesser known or less popular alkaline brands to compare runtime. I'll post the result soon as I'm done.

Other battery review sites tested battery for their application... digital cameras and camera flash. I'm seeking the cheapest and longest running alkaline battery for my application..... flashlight. 

- verge -


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Dec 8, 2001)

I don't have any scientific evidence for what I am about to say, but I think that Eveready Alkaline batteries are the best alkaline batteries.

I am a fairly consistant user of batteries - mostly AA and AAA but others as well. Mostly in high quality flashlights (I have yet to find a rechargeable flashlight that can "hold a candle" to those with non-rechargeable but replaceable batteries).

Eveready batteries have always served me well. To me they obviously hold up longer than either Duracell or RayOVac. In fact, the one time I used Duracell (Because I could not get any others at the time) in a new 2 D cell Mag-Light, the brand new Duracell batteries corroded less than 3 days after loading them in the light - so badly that they fused the threads on the battery cap of the flashlight. Duracell sent me a check for the light and I have not used Duracell since. RayOVac batteries, in my opinion just don't hold up.

I use Eveready batteries exclusively.


<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by flashfan:
*Does anyone know which alkaline battery is the "best," performance-wise? Which brand is the strongest and longest-lasting? Are there significant differences between say, the "regular" alkalines and the "max" (Energizer) and "ultra" (Duracell) batteries?

I searched this "Batteries Included" section, but didn't find any information on this topic. If it has been covered before, please direct me to the right place. Thanks for any input.



*<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


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## Brock (Dec 9, 2001)

Well I just had another Eveready Alkaline AA cell leak inside a $2000 Sennheiser wireless mike. I usually insist on Procell or Duracell because have never had them leak, but someone gave me a box of Eveready's. It wasn't a bad leak and the battery sled comes out so I cleaned it off without much problem. This isn't the first time I have had them leak and I never use used batteries in those units or leave them in longer then one performance. I do agree that Eveready tend to run a bit longer then Duracell’s, but now I am wondering if it is due to a smaller casing???


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## recercare (Dec 9, 2001)

Nemko is a Norwegian organisation. It's looked up on as the most reliable "tester" in the country. Many hospitals use Nemko before buying equipment. 

Last year Nemko did a battery test for high drain devices (AA): 
1. Energizer: 7h 47m
2. Phillips: 7h 42m
3. Panasonic: 7h 41m
4. Duracell: 7h 36m
5. Varta: 6h 51m


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Dec 10, 2001)

What exactly are those *high drain* devices used by Nemko for their tests? Did they include flashlight?

My device is flashlight (UKE4AA, Streamlight Poly 4AA, TEC-40, Arc-AAA) which showed from my numerous continous "ON" experiments that Rayovac Maximum AA and AAA batteries give the longest burntime (2 to 3 hrs more) for less bucks.

My search is for longest burntime and cheapest battery for my AA and AAA flashlights, not for my CD player or other electronic devices.

I have time-lapse photos showing Rayovac AA and AAA batteries beating Energizer and Duracell in my continous ON burntime experiments for my AA and AAA flashlight.

It is also easy to duplicate this experiment if one has a digital camera with time-lapse capture feature.

- verge -


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## ikendu (Dec 10, 2001)

From all that I've read on the web and this forum, seems like that LED lights are low drain devices and the best alkaline battery is the cheapest alkaline battery.

Walgreens just had their private branded alkalines on sale recently at 4 AAAs for $1.

Hard to beat that for value.


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## recercare (Dec 13, 2001)

I don't know which devices Nemko used. I always buy batteries on sale, regardless of brand.


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Dec 14, 2001)

I have also been using RAOYVAC Renewal Rechargeable Alkaline Batteries.

I have had several incidences of the batteries leaking a whitish power/crystaline substance. Those batteries were only partially discharged when I start charging them but TOTALLY dead when I found them in the charger corroded. I was using the proper batteries in the proper charger and it still happens.

What is causing this? RAYOVAC does not respond. It is interesting that not all batteries corrode during charging. Some from the same package will some won't.

I recently switched to Energizer Rechargeable NiMH chargers and batteries and I am much happier. No corrosion.

I have never been a fan of any RAYOVAC batteries. I have always tried to use Eveready Batteries - preferably Engerizers.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by vcal:
*



Originally posted by ikendu:
[qb]How does this experience relate to the RayOVac rechargeable alkalines?

I have heard they are prone to leakage (possibly from the charge/discharge cycles causing the steel can to erode over time).

Any experience with life and recharge cycles in LED flashlights?

Click to expand...

*


> <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
> I've been using the Ray-O-Vac Renewals (alk.rechargeables) for a few years, and have never had one leak. Three considerations:
> -----------------------------
> 1. using _only_ their designated charger.
> ...


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## vcal (Dec 14, 2001)

Ranger,
Very perplexing!-your leakage experience...
You might, if you have time and about $4. to ship R-Vac 2 or 3 of those leakers, (along with a note about your application/use of those cells), and ask them what the heck is going on????
Re: NimHs-if their lower voltage works OK -especially in your LED applications, IMHO, then they are your very best value.


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## ikendu (Dec 14, 2001)

I too have had this experience where the Renewal batteries leak in the charger.

I notice in the latest instruction manual for Renewal chargers that you absolutely can not leave the batteries in the charger.

I think that accounts for all of my problems from the past (I was leaving them in). So...maybe if you are really careful to charge and them take them out right away, the leaking will not be a problem.


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## JasonC8301 (Jan 6, 2002)

2d_edge 

I have a Streamlight ProPolymer 4AA and currently use Energizer Max batteries in it. I say I have a run time of about 2 amd 1/2 hours (left it on for an hour once while in my cargo pocket, talk about getting hot), and the light is still going strong. 

I bought a 4 pack of RayOVacs dated 2005 for $1.59 at the local odd job. 

My question is, which battery do you recommend? 
The Energizer Max or Rayovacs? 

I also have 24 Energizer e2 batteries, but I am not sure if the streamlight should be labeled as a high drain device. 

Thanks,
Jason


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Jan 6, 2002)

For PDAs. I was using regular Energizer Alkaline batteries in my PDA (2 AAA) - which I use a lot!. It was going through about 2 sets of batteries a month. I tried DuraCell Alkalines (I do not like DuraCell Batteries) and it when through about 3 sets a month. I then tried Energizer e2 Alkaline batteries and got about a month and a half out of one set of batteries. The e2's cost a bit more - but they last longer - at least in my informal evaluation.

I am not sure how the e2 performa in other applications.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by flashfan:
*Does anyone know which alkaline battery is the "best," performance-wise? Which brand is the strongest and longest-lasting? Are there significant differences between say, the "regular" alkalines and the "max" (Energizer) and "ultra" (Duracell) batteries?

I searched this "Batteries Included" section, but didn't find any information on this topic. If it has been covered before, please direct me to the right place. Thanks for any input.



*<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Jan 8, 2002)

Jason... my experience with those brands of batteries except the Energizer e2 (haven't tried it yet) shows that Rayovac gives the longest burntime compared to Energizer Max and Duracell Coppertop.

Here is the result of my previous experiments with different brands of alkaline batteries. Results taken from time-lapse photos with date and time stamps showing the duration of batteries' burn time.

*TEC-40, UK4AA, Streamlight Poly 4AA - Alkaline Battery Runtime - Time/Hrs - June 2001*

TEC-40
Duracell Coppertop 2005 (2:30)
Energizer 2007 (3:45)
Rayovac Maximum 2005 (4:05)

UK4AA
Duracell Coppertop 2005 (3:20)
Energizer 2007 (4:45)
Rayovac Maximum 2007 (5:00)

Streamlight Poly 4AA
Duracell Coppertop 2005 (2:40)
Energizer 2007 (4:35)
Rayovac Maximum 2007 (4:55)

*Arc-AAA Alkaline Battery Runtime - Time/Hrs - November 2001*

Rayovac Maximum 2007 (10:00)
American Fare Long Lasting 2006 (08:30)
Energizer Max 2008 (08:05)
Duracell Ultra 2008 (07:00)
Duracell Coppertop 2008 (06:15)

I'd prefer the cheaper Rayovac Maximum compared to the more expensive brands not only because of the price but also of its longer burn time. I hope this helps.

- verge -


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## aso (Jan 8, 2002)

just some info:

Wallyworld has a 24 pack of Everactive batteries(house brand) for $7.97. These are rebranded Rayovacs(compare the packaging and patent numbers)


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## Spidey82 (Jan 8, 2002)

U guys heard of IKEA battries??
Linfeng


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## Lonewolf (Jan 8, 2002)

Anybody use the 1.5 volt Diehard batteries I saw them at Sears 24 for $10.

2d_edge I am amazed you got 10 hours out of a AAA I love this LE more every day.


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## brightnorm (Jan 8, 2002)

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 2d_edge:
*From all of my runtime tests with UK4AA, SL4AA, and TEC40 (using Rayovac, Energizer, and Duracell), Rayovac Maximum always come out first-place, Energizer second-place, and Duracell Coppertop far third-placer with the shortest runtime.
*<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hi 2d_edge,

I agree with your assessment of Ray-O-Vac Maximum AA's 100% 

I have only tested them against Duracell AA Ultras with "M3 Technology" as clearly labeled. There is no question that they outburn the Duracells. My figures agree very closely with yours, although I haven't yet tested the AAA's in my Arc Le. I'd like to start buying the Maximums in C size, but I don't know where to get them with a reliable late date. Unfortunately, I live in a city that has no "Wallyworlds" or similar stores, and, as you pointed out, you never know what dates you get online.

I will continue using those remarkable Ray-O-Vacs, and I will continue feeling sorry for my fellow Flashaholics who don't use them and don't understand what they're missing, in terms of price and burn time.

Best regards,
Brightnorm


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Jan 8, 2002)

Brightnorm.... this is the price of those AAA alkaline batteries from my nearest K-Mart;

$5.49 / 8-Pack - $0.68/ea - Rayovac Maximum 2007
$3.29 / 6-Pack - $0.55/ea - American Fare Long Lasting 2006
$3.59 / 4-Pack - $0.90/ea - Energizer Max 2008
$4.59 / 4-Pack - $1.15/ea - Duracell Ultra 2008
$3.69 / 4-Pack - $0.92/ea - Duracell Coppertop 2008

American Fare Long Lasting alkaline battery surprised me beating Energizer and Duracell Ultra. This goes to show that there are lesser known brands of batteries with longer burntime than the expensive known brands.

I still have to try the Walgreen brand and those 1.5 volts Die-Hard alkaline batteries. I'll post the result when I get them.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 5BY5:
*2d_edge I am amazed you got 10 hours out of a AAA I love this LE more every day.*<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

It was actually 9 hours 'Sun Mode' and 1 hour 'Moon Mode'. 

- verge -


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## Mr Ted Bear (Jan 8, 2002)

Circuit City had a deal last week: 20 maxell AA for 9.95 and a 9.00 rebate


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## dat2zip (Jan 9, 2002)

In my experience, Duracell has been the top leader and advertiser (copper top ads) and possibly runner up the energizer bunny. The top two. But, Duracell must have a stronger marketing as far as deployment. I find more Duracells almost everywhere I go. (It's the major brand at Costco). One thing to note is that I have over the last 15 years been very wary about having duracells in products for more than 6mo's as they almost always leak and they leak corrisive eating your product as well.

Basically any flashlight I put Duracells in no longer exist.

So, I'm rather new to CDF and am seriously considering getting an Arc LE ?? and I surely don't want to find it's totally corroded a year later.

For me personally, I use almost NiMH for most stuff, I use Duracells as my other main staple being sure to pull the batteries out if I have to put the product away for some time. And battery backed up equipment needing a couple AA or 9V I use eveready batteries. And I've got totally fed up with the renewals. Almost all mine have now leaked and I've discarded them plus my two chargers have almost all there charge slots corroded and not usable. So much for saving money. Renewals are actually very good and, I think they are exceptional for super light duty like TV remote control and things like that. I've still got a few AAA in my TV remote and probably charge them once every year and have been doing that for 10 yrs now. I disagree with <250mA. Renewals have a funny internal resistance knee and it behaves rather oddly depending on the current. The only sure way to avoid this is to put very light loads and then the battery shines if you never deep discharge it. Always recharge them before they drop below 1 volt. Letting them drop below that is very cutting into the many charge/discharge cycles you can get out of it.

I've got other products where the battery has been left in for >10Yrs without leakage and they are always Eveready. Although nice to know battery life usage, a snapshot today is not very useful since competitition forces each manufacturer to change composites and mixes all the time. So, date code every 3-6mo time frames can be different.

My only comment is (IMHO) is I use everedy batteries for my storage and emergency flashlights and stuff. I'd rather pick up a battery that's been lying around and 1) either be dead and need new batteries or 2) work as expected. What I won't tolerate is to pick up a flashlight and find not only does it not work, but, corroded beyond usability. So, even if you had another set of batteries, the flashlight has died and gone to the flashlight pool in the sky.


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## brightnorm (Jan 13, 2002)

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 2d_edge:
*Brightnorm.... this is the price of those AAA alkaline batteries from my nearest K-Mart;
- verge -*<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Verge,

Thanks very much.

Best regards,
Brightnorm


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Jan 13, 2002)

2 d edge: Thanks for your test times.

i just got my ARC LE last night and love
the thing. It feels like such a precision
piece of equipment. And AAA batteries to boot!
It don't get no better than that. I'm gonna get 
another and just put it back.
I have a question for you, when you were
performing the battery time tests, how did
the ARC LE behave when the DC to DC inverter
sensed the lower voltage to step the brightness down a notch? Was it a quick switch or a gradual change to dimmer light?
Does it just keep fading to nothing?
Sorry, for more than one question.
Many thanks, Scott


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Jan 13, 2002)

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Scott S.:
* Was it a quick switch or a gradual change to dimmer light?
Does it just keep fading to nothing?
*<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I couldn't say that it was a sudden change from very bright to a very dim lightbeam because it was more like a gradual change from bright to dim until it fades to blackout.

I have 2 composite runtime photos of Arc-AAA with Rayovac Maximum alkaline battery on my Yahoo Photos - Arc-Flashlight Album. I'm just starting to move pics to a new free photo server to show other time-lapse photos of Arc-AAA performance with different brands of alkaline batteries.

http://photos.yahoo.com/verge1800

When I've saved enough to buy that Fluke DMM I'll include the current/voltage reading with every frame of photos in a 10-minute interval time-lapse photos so we can also see current and voltage readings with regards to certain brightness level.






- verge -


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Jan 14, 2002)

Thanks Verge,

Your elapsed time photos are great!
After studying them this morning, it still
appears the neat little ARC LE will give its
owner at least 2 to 3 hours of very useable
dim(mer) light after the voltage drop. Have you tried turning the LE off while 
in the moon mode (long enough) to see if it goes back to the sun mode? 
If it works as stated, that is a nice little
feature.


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## brightnorm (Jan 17, 2002)

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 2d_edge:
*The Arc-AAA LE with 'Rayovac Maximum AAA Alkaline' is still running strong after 9 hrs 
- verge -*<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Verge,

Your tests have shown that the ARC AAA LE is even more useful than I (or most Flashaholics) thought. 

My one and only frustration with the Le is not the fault of the light or Peter G, its brilliant designer. It's the fact that there are no AAA lithium batteries. If I'm out on a cold winter evening with my LE, after a while that poor, tiny little Alky is going to start pooping out.

Or am I wrong? Have you ever heard of lithium AAA's?

Your tests are great and you seem very knowledgeable. Do you have a "Testing Website"?

Best regards,
brightnorm


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Jan 18, 2002)

Thanks for the complimets brightnorm!





I'm really wary of calling what I have been doing with flashlights as "tests" because I'm not technically trained and experienced to this kind of stuffs.

These, experiments as I call them, are all done for fun and in a small way make a contribution to CPF and flashaholics gain more information, informations not provided by manufacturers like comparison beam photos of different brands of flashlights.

Yes, I also wish there is a lithium AAA battery around. I haven't tried leaving my Arc-AAA or LE's outside to freeze. 

I'm a flashaholic who believes that until flashlight manufacturers come up with a common or standard way of rating flashlight lightbeams... beam photo is still the better way of knowing how good one brand's lightbeam from the other.

Unlike 'time' where one can go to http://nist.time.gov/ or tune in to tv and radio stations to get the standard time for free, is there a place nearby where one can go to adjust his DMM to measure the standard "1 volt" or "10mA"?

Pictures may not be perfect but still it shows which beam is brighter and nicer. Btw, Photopoint is gone and I'm uploding my beam photos to a new photo host.

Craig's ProMetric equipment is really a very nice machine and shows beam quality from brightness to nice clean or rough beam. I hope Craig finds the time to use that machine to all of his flashlight. I'm even thinking of sending my flashlights to Craig so he could test them with ProMetric and have a common way of looking at lightbeams.

I think that ProMetric machine is better and more informative than the other expensive machines, "ball" as they are called, manufacturers are using. 

I've been telling myself for sometime to create a website. It will contain only beam photos, runtime, close-up to show clean or rough beam, and photos to show beam throw. I leave the technical stuffs to our good reviewers Craig, Brock, Chris M., and Quickbeam.

- verge -


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## brightnorm (Jan 18, 2002)

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 2d_edge:
*
I'm a flashaholic who believes that until flashlight manufacturers come up with a common or standard way of rating flashlight lightbeams... beam photo is still the better way of knowing how good one brand's lightbeam from the other...
Pictures may not be perfect but still it shows which beam is brighter and nicer. Btw, Photopoint is gone and I'm uploding my beam photos to a new photo host.
- verge -*<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Verge,

I much prefer your approach to these ultrasophisticated tests that often don't reveal the truth. Your way is simple, clear, and practical. It tells us what we need to know in an efficient and immediately understandable way.

Best regards,
Brightnorm


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## Alaric Darconville (Jan 22, 2002)

The Ziff-Davis Anchorman David Coursey has an at least minimally interesting article on batteries here.

Energy levels low? Pick 'em up--with the right battery


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## Darell (Jan 22, 2002)

Thanks for the "time-lapse" images Verge. Good stuff.

So, who wants to point at where "moon mode" begins? There is another mood mode thread, but I'm curious if anybody here wants to take a stab at it. I always thought there would be a drastic change in brightness at some point, but I haven't seen it.


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## txwest (Jan 22, 2002)

Originally posted by darell:
So, who wants to point at where "moon mode" begins? 
**************
I can't tell where "moon mode" kicks in, But I can pretty well say that the last shot is "NEW moon mode".






TX


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## Darell (Jan 22, 2002)

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by txwest:
*the last shot is "NEW moon mode".






TX*<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

That there is "Dark Side of the Moon Mode."


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## TripleDouble (Jan 31, 2002)

You can get Everactive batteries at Walmart, a 24 pack costed me 7.97. Here's one test that shows them in a favorable light:
http://www.professionalwireless.com/battery.html


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