# Acebeam K60 (XHP70, 4x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO +



## selfbuilt (Aug 10, 2015)

_*Reviewer's Note:* Due to a large backlog of lights that I have to test, I will limit some of the descriptive text in my reviews for the time being. Full commentaries are still provided under the Potential Issues and the Preliminary Discussion sections, but I will let the pictures and graphs speak more themselves in the body of the review. _















The K60 is the latest light from AceBeam, featuring the high-output Cree XHP70 emitter. Let's see how it compares to the earlier AceBeam/SupBeam lights, and other competing high-output lights.

*Acebeam Reported Specifications:*
Note: as usual, this is just what the manufacturer provides. Scroll down to see my actual testing results.


LED: Cree XHP70 LED 
Max 5000lumens output using (4x 18650 power cell)
Output (select by magnetic ring): Level 1 : 1lm 1300hours; Level 2 : 50lm 60 hours; Level 3 : 700lm 8 hours; Level 4 : 1700lm 3 hours; Level 5 : 3400lm 1.5hours; Level 6 : 5000lm 1 hours; Standby : 65uA Strobe : 5000lm 3 hours;
Working voltage: 4V - 17V;
Max Runtime: 1300 hours;
Max beam distance: 704meters;
Peak beam intensity: 124100cd;
Impact resistant: 1.2 meters;
Waterproof : IPX-8 Standard (2meters);
Size: 206mm(length) x 88mm(head diameter)*50mm(tube diameter);
Weight: 570g(without batteries);
Aircraft grade aluminum body structure;
Premium type III hard anodized anti-abrasive finish.
ultra-clear tempered glass lens with anti-reflective coating.
momentary forward click tactical switch.
Strobe mode for tactical and emergency use.
Light orange peel reflector for both smoothing out the beam and max. beam distance.
tactical knurling for firm grip
streamlined body design
Mechanical reversed polarity protection design for battery carrier
Intelligent highly effcient circuit board design for max performance and long run time;
Specially designed for military,Law Enforcement, Self-defense, Hunting,Search&Rescue and outdoor activities.
Intelligent temperature controlled light output for user safety
Accessories include: 1x user manual; 1x lanyard; 1x holster; 1x Replacement O - ring and Tailcap gummi;
MSRP: ~$190










The K60 comes in the standard plain cardboard box with packing foam. Along with the light is a holster, extra o-rings, spare boot switch cover, decent quality wrist strap, warranty card, manual. 













From left to right: Keeppower protected 18650 3100mAh; Acebeam K60; Supbeam K50; Acebeam K40M; Thrunite TN35.

All dimensions are directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Acebeam K60*: Weight: 593.2g, Length: 207mm, Width (bezel): 88.0mm
*AceBeam K40M*: Weight: 498.4g, Length: 188mm, Width (bezel): 76.2mm
*SupBeam K50*: Weight: 645.0g, Length: 230mm, Width (bezel): 90.1mm
*Crelant 7G10*: Weight 643.4g (827g with 4x18650), Length: 198mm, Width (bezel): 79.0mm
*Eagletac MX25L3C 3x18650*: Weight: 345.9g, 352.0g with kit tailcap (485-491g with 4x18650), Length: 141.9mm, 143.6mm with kit tailcap, Width (bezel): 61.9mm
*Fenix TK61*: Weight: 605.7g (790g with 4x18650), Length: 218mm, Width (bezel): 96.0mm
*Fenix TK75*: Weight: 516.0g (700g with 4x18650), Length: 184mm, Width (bezel): 87.5mm
*Niwalker BK-FA02*: Weight: 687.6g (870g with 4x18650), Length: 209mm, Width (bezel): 80.0mm, Width (tailcap): 50.3mm
*Olight SR52*: Weight: 396.7g (497g with 6xCR123A), Length: 162mm, Width (bezel): 63.1mm
*Thrunite TN35 (MT-G2)*: Weight: 571.4g (723g with 3x18650), Length: 201mm, Width (bezel): 78.9mm






















The K60 is similar to the K40M reviewed previously, with revised styling for a more "rakish" look. I believe you have a choice of anodizing colors, but mine came in flat black. Anodizing seems to be in very good shape on my sample. Labels are sharp and clear, and include a serial number.

Rather than traditional knurling, the handle has a checkered pattern. Combined with the extra ridge detail on the control ring and head, overall grip is pretty good. The light can roll fairly easily, although there are cut-outs to help limit that somewhat.

The control ring feels and looks like the earlier AceBeam lights. All black, there are slight indents on the control ring to help with feel. There is a label mark on the control ring that lines up with the labels on the head. The six constant output modes are not individually labeled, but there is a graded output bar pictogram over the first four levels (i.e., shows the direction to turn to raise or lower the output). There are firm detents at each level, with a slight click as you enter into each one.

Screw threads are traditional triangular cut, but seem of good quality. They are anodized, but it is the tension on the spring in the head than determines if you can lock out the light by a twist. On my sample, a quick turn is enough to lock out the light.

The lights can tailstand. Tailcap has cut-outs to facilitate access to the switch. Switch is a forward clicky switch (i.e., press for momentary, click for locked-on). 

Let's take a closer look at the battery carrier and bundled 18650 cells: 


























The positive contact points inside the carrier are slightly raised, so all types of 18650 cells should work fine (i.e., true flat-tops, wide and small button-tops). There seems to be plenty of room in the carrier for length, so longer cells should fit fine. All the cells point the same way here (i.e., negative terminals at the base, positive terminals toward the head). 

A nice touch is that the light came with the batteries locked out by use of small adhesive stickers on the carrier springs (need to remove them to use the light).

The batteries are labelled as high-drain IMR 18650, 2500mAh capacity and 20A rated. I recommend you stick with the IMR cells when running level 5 or 6. Note that these batteries don't come with protection circuits, so you will need to make sure you do not over-discharge the cells by running the light down.














The large XHP70 emitter die shows four quadrants, with very little overhang of the emitter base (i.e., relatively small dome, just covering the die). This should translate into reasonable throw for the size and output. Reflector has fairly heavy texturing (orange peel finish). There is a clear anti-glare coating on the lens.

Scroll down for beamshots.

*User Interface*

Turn the light off/on by the tailcap clicky – press for momentary, press and release (i.e., click) for constant on. 

Change output modes by turning the control ring in the head. Arranged from left-to-right (looking down at the light, held in traditional flashlight carry), the modes are level 1 > level 2 > level 3 > level 4 > level 5 > level 6 (max) > standby > tactical strobe. 

No light is produced on standby, but a miniscule current will be drawn to allow the circuit to respond to a ring turn (see below). As always, I recommend you store the light clicked-off at the tailcap, or locked-out by a head twist. 

*Video*: 

For more information on the light, please see my brief overview here:



As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video. 

*Strobe*

There is no sign of PWM on any level – the light is current-controlled. :thumbsup:






The K60 uses an oscillating strobe design, switching between two frequencies every ~0.7secs or so. Here is a blow up of the two frequencies:










As you can see, it rapidly switches between 14Hz and 7Hz. This is very similar to the K40M that I previously tested.

*Standby Drain*

There must be a standby drain when the clicky switch is turned on and the light is in standby position of the control ring. I measured this traditional standby current as 85uA on 4x18650. This is similar to my K50, and not a major concern. Given the in-series arrangement, that would take over 3.3 years to fully drain the bundled 2500mAh cells.

Note that on other lights that use a similar design (e.g., Thrunite TN3x series), I know there is an additional circuit to assist the switch when high current draw is required. This necessitates a secondary circuit in the tailcap that has its own standby drain when connected to the carrier. Typically, these are in the uA range and not a concern in practice (although it would be additive to the carrier drain below when fully connected). 

*Beamshots:*

And now, what you have all been waiting for.  All lights are on their respective 18650 battery sources, about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance, except for the MT-G2 (daylight white balance, to better compare tint).





























































For outdoor shots, these are done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground). Note there are a lot of bugs out at this time of year, so expect to see some flight trails.  And I accidentally left the camera on auto white balance, so the MT-G2 looks unnaturally cool in these outdoor shots.

The Nitecore TM16 (4xXM-L2) and Lumintop SD75 (1xXHP70) will be examined in upcoming reviews. Please see my review catalog at flashlightreviews.ca for the AceBeam K40M, Eagletac ZP10L9 and Niwalker MM18.



























Scroll down for direct beam measurements.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).











The K60 certainly lives up to its published specs – and exceeds them for throw on my sample. 

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*

I currently do all my runtime testing on Panasonic NCR18650A (3100mAh) based protected ICR cells. In this case, I have used the bundled AceBeam 2500mAh IMR 20A cells for L5 and L6 testing.










As you can see, there is a timed step-down on the highest level. And I'm glad to see the low battery warning, given the use of unprotected cells here.

*Potential Issues*

As with all lights that share this design, there is a stand-by current when in the "Stand By" mode of the control ring. But this current is very low (85uA), and will not be problem for regular use. And you can easily break this current by clicking the tailswitch off, or loosening the head a quarter turn.

Only 18650 Li-ion cells may be used in the light (i.e., doesn't support multiple CR123A primary cells). Use of high-drain IMR cells is recommended for the highest levels (i.e., L5 and L6). Note that IMR cells are all unprotected, so you will have to make sure you do not let the light run down and damage the cells. 

*Preliminary Observations*

The K60 is another solid light from Acebeam. I have a couple of XHP70 lights on my desk in testing right now, and all show the promise of this new emitter for high output (and potentially throw, when coupled to a large reflector). Part of Cree's Extreme High Power (XHP) class, the XHP70 apparently delivers twice the output of the MK-R, with similar lumens/watt - and without increasing the overall package footprint. Please see the Cree XHP70 datasheet for more info.

Working from the previous K40/K50-series build, styling is updated somewhat on the K60 – but the light otherwise feels very similar to its predecessors. Personally, I've always been a fan of the Acebeam/SupBeam builds. The user interface is clear and uncluttered, with a good ring feel. The ring has clear and firm detents, and the output levels are well spaced. The battery carrier is of solid construction, and works well. And the presence of an actual clicky switch is always welcomed, to cut any unnecessary standby drain. Note that as with the K40 series, there is no in-light charging feature on the K60.

The K60 shows excellent output/runtime efficiency and regulation (i.e., very flat). You can really see the efficiency advantage of the XHP70 compared to the MT-G2, XM-L2 or SST-90 emitters in the runtimes above. :thumbsup: 

You also get a very "traditional" flashlight beam pattern here, with strong throw and good spill – but with incredibly high output overall. oo: And all that without multi-emitter artifacts, thanks to the large and well-focused reflector and single emitter. So far, I'm impressed with what the XHP70 can do - this XHP class has a lot of potential for heavy-duty flashlights.

For those looking for very good throw and super high output, the K60 is definitely a strong option to consider. Beam pattern, user interface, output/runtime efficiency and regulation were all excellent in my testing. :wave:

----

K60 provided by AceBeam for review.


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## Severus (Aug 10, 2015)

nice graffiti on the road, it seems somebody is trolling you.


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## markr6 (Aug 10, 2015)

Thanks! I was looking forward to this one and also look forward to the TM16. I was torn between the two but went with the TM16 mainly due to the side switch.

I'm sure it's the camera, but seems strange the warmer K40M appears cool, and the cool K60/TM16 appear warm.

Haha "Stand by" I thought they fixed that. Better than "Stand. By." I guess


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## ven (Aug 10, 2015)

Thanks for the excellent review,cant wait for my k60vn version , its a tough choice right now(for me anyway) with all these great lights but glad i have chosen the k60

Well spotted Severus,i had to go back and see what you meant!! Guess it pretty much describes the "troll"


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## selfbuilt (Aug 10, 2015)

Severus said:


> nice graffiti on the road, it seems somebody is trolling you.


Yeah, I suspect that wasn't for me specifically. :laughing: Around the bend on that road is a popular hangout for teenagers late at night - I've come across a few on my excursions. I'm guessing one of them was exploring his sense of self-expression, LOL.



markr6 said:


> I'm sure it's the camera, but seems strange the warmer K40M appears cool, and the cool K60/TM16 appear warm.


Ah yes, forgot to mention it, but I had the camera on automatic white balance for those outdoor shots. The white wall beam shots show better what to expect, since the MT-G2 was locked on daylight.


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## markr6 (Aug 10, 2015)

ven said:


> Well spotted Severus,i had to go back and see what you meant!! Guess it pretty much describes the "troll"



LOL!!!!! I missed that. Coincidence, or someone had enough time to locate this road in person? Beat me to it about the teenager comment! Nice quiet place to do, whatever.


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## Summer Heat (Aug 10, 2015)

> Use of high-drain IMR cells is recommended for the highest levels (i.e., L5 and L6).



Hello there. Would you be able to quickly explain this? What benefits do IMR batteries have over protected batteries when it comes to level 5 and 6?


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## gkbain (Aug 10, 2015)

Thanks SB for another outstanding review. All my big lights are now outdated. They are 2-3 yrs. old. Technology keeps going.


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## light-wolff (Aug 10, 2015)

Summer Heat said:


> Hello there. Would you be able to quickly explain this? What benefits do IMR batteries have over protected batteries when it comes to level 5 and 6?


I second that question.
Current draw ist max 4.5A on level 6.

I made runtime measurements with Samsung 30Q, 35E, LG MJ1 and Soshine protected 3400mAh (NCR 18650 BF) on levels 5 and 6.
Best runtime on level 6 until battery warning was with LG MJ1, followed by SDI 35E, 30Q, protected NCR BL.
On level 5 it was MJ1/35E (identical), protected NCR BL, 30Q.
So there's no need for trading in capacity for high-current capability.
I think among currently available cells the NCR18650GA would achieve max runtime in all modes, but I don't have 4 of them to verify this.


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## Tac Gunner (Aug 10, 2015)

I'm so ready to be out of college and can afford these new 4000+ lumen lights but in another year these will be old school and be as numerous as 1000 lumen lights are now and not special anymore.


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## andrew2 (Aug 10, 2015)

Thanks for the review,will check out this Acebeam flashlight soon.Love selfbuilt's review and pictures,they are really great.


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## richbuff (Aug 10, 2015)

Thanks for your very informative review of this standout light. I have been thinking about adding this item to my collection. I have plenty of small lights, and I have a sufficient quantity of popcan flooders, for now. 

I am looking for something with both throw and power, and it looks like this is it. Single, powerful emitter combined with a large reflector would fill a hole in my collection.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 10, 2015)

Summer Heat said:


> Hello there. Would you be able to quickly explain this? What benefits do IMR batteries have over protected batteries when it comes to level 5 and 6?


You can certainly get by with protected ICR - it seems to be within spec, although I haven't measured the current draw. But there's a difference between within spec and what's good for a cell, and I would personally prefer to use IMR/Hybrid cells on the L6 in particular. 



richbuff said:


> I am looking for something with both throw and power, and it looks like this is it. Single, powerful emitter combined with a large reflector would fill a hole in my collection.


Yes, it is nice to see something with this much power also have excellent throw - without all the overlapping well artifacts of multi-emitter lights.


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## Summer Heat (Aug 12, 2015)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, it is nice to see something with this much power also have excellent throw - without all the overlapping well artifacts of multi-emitter lights.



I have to agree with this 100%. My K60 has a very gorgeous beam, the emitter is perfectly centered and the beam is very clean and symmetrical. There is a slight donut hole but it is not bad at all. I really love the color temperature of the beam as well. It is not to high, and not to low for my taste. I just bought a second K60 and I really hope it will be just as good as the first one I got.


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## daicatudius (Aug 12, 2015)

I wonder which one is better. The *5000lm Acebeam K60* or the *4000lm Fenix TK75 2015 edition*  The K60 has higher output lumens (and higher price, too) but it can't keep that ouput level for so long, while the TK75 can hold maximum output (4000lm) for about 15-20 minutes (I guess) before step down to the lower level.

Any advice, please?


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## selfbuilt (Aug 12, 2015)

daicatudius said:


> Any advice, please?


Personally, I'm a sucker for a clean spillbeam. While throw can be excellent on multi-emitter setups, I find I can still notice multi-well artifacts in the periphery of my vision. Just a personal perspective, though.

:welcome:


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## Summer Heat (Aug 13, 2015)

Hi selfbuilt, 

Are you able to unscrew the tailcap on your K60 unit? I am trying to waterproof my K60 with lubricant and I noticed the tailcap does not unscrew with significant force applied, even though it is threaded. I think mines may have come with a factory adhesive in place so as to not to be readily disassembled. The same thing with the retaining ring on the bezel.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 13, 2015)

Summer Heat said:


> Are you able to unscrew the tailcap on your K60 unit? I am trying to waterproof my K60 with lubricant and I noticed the tailcap does not unscrew with significant force applied, even though it is threaded. I think mines may have come with a factory adhesive in place so as to not to be readily disassembled. The same thing with the retaining ring on the bezel.


Yes, both ends of mine won't open with hand force either. I presume they must have used thread-locker on both the tailcap and bezel.


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## Fusion_m8 (Aug 14, 2015)

Fantastic review as always!


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## MAD777 (Aug 14, 2015)

This looks to be a ridiculously fantastic flashlight.
Thank you selfbuilt for this and all of the time and effort you put into your amazing reviews.

P.S. I'm going to contribute to your battery fund. It's the least I can do to thank you!


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## selfbuilt (Aug 15, 2015)

MAD777 said:


> P.S. I'm going to contribute to your battery fund. It's the least I can do to thank you!


Thanks MAD777 - I appreciate that! :wave:


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## daicatudius (Aug 16, 2015)

Hello again *selfbuilt*

Could you please tell me what the brightness level (in lumen) after this light stepped down from the highest level?
Sorry I am new and I can't read your charts properly :mecry:

Thank you!


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## MAD777 (Aug 17, 2015)

The answer is, "plenty of lumens." LOL I'm just kidding with you. 
Seriously, the axis on the left is just relative numbers. What's important is that 200 is twice 100, etc. on the graph. So, the K60 starts out at 750 and drops down to about 660. By dividing 660 by 750 we get 88%. From the tables above the graphs, we see the peak lumen is 4950. So 88% of 4950 is 4356.
And 4356 lumens is "plenty of lumens". LOL

(660/750)*4950=4356

BTW, I was ready with the answer because I've been drooling over this light!


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## selfbuilt (Aug 18, 2015)

daicatudius said:


> Could you please tell me what the brightness level (in lumen) after this light stepped down from the highest level?
> Sorry I am new and I can't read your charts properly :mecry:





MAD777 said:


> Seriously, the axis on the left is just relative numbers. What's important is that 200 is twice 100, etc. on the graph. So, the K60 starts out at 750 and drops down to about 660. By dividing 660 by 750 we get 88%.


Yes, that's not exactly it. The relative scale of my graphs is not perfectly linear to lumen output (although it's not a bad approximation). You would have to follow the link in the review to where I discuss how to convert the relative scale to estimated lumens to get a more accurate number. If you do this, you will see the step-down level is pretty close to ~4200 lumens. :wave:


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## Gunner12 (Aug 19, 2015)

Great review as usual!

Glad to see that you're still doing reviews after all these years.


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## BrightLignt (Aug 27, 2015)

I'm happy to see another Acebeam review. I had been hoping for more Acebeam reviews for some time now... This one blows away the competing Lumintop.

Now if only they would send you a review unit of the X60M...


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## brightnorm (Aug 28, 2015)

daicatudius said:


> I wonder which one is better. The *5000lm Acebeam K60* or the *4000lm Fenix TK75 2015 edition*  The K60 has higher output lumens (and higher price, too) but it can't keep that ouput level for so long, while the TK75 can hold maximum output (4000lm) for about 15-20 minutes (I guess) before step down to the lower level. Any advice, please?


The new TK75 has four XM-L2s in four reflectors. Each reflector is smaller than each of the three reflectors in the original TK75. If this means that that the new TK75 will have less throw than the original, despite the increased lumens, I will prefer to keep my original TK75.

I am very happy with my K60, and Selfbuilt's excellent review reassures me that I made a good choice.

Brightnorm


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## KarstGhost (Aug 28, 2015)

Are these shipping with the batteries included?


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## selfbuilt (Aug 29, 2015)

KarstGhost said:


> Are these shipping with the batteries included?


Good question, I'm not sure. My review sample came with Acebeam-branded IMR cells, but I don't know how these are commonly being sold.


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## BrightLignt (Aug 29, 2015)

They are not sold with batteries unless the seller specifically bundles them. The batteries they sent selfbuilt are button-top LG HE2.


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## monkeyboy (Mar 21, 2016)

It seems like a while ago that I read this review but I've finally ordered the K60. It's my first major flashlight purchase in a few years and I intend to use Eagletac 3500mAh protected cells. 
Is anyone else using the Eagletac 3500's with the Acebeam K60?
Are there any potential issues with fitting or current capability etc.?


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## ven (Mar 21, 2016)

monkeyboy said:


> It seems like a while ago that I read this review but I've finally ordered the K60. It's my first major flashlight purchase in a few years and I intend to use Eagletac 3500mAh protected cells.
> Is anyone else using the Eagletac 3500's with the Acebeam K60?
> Are there any potential issues with fitting or current capability etc.?



Not got protected 3500 only naked and obv fit, i did do a pic of a protected pany B fitting so i cant see an issue tbh.

You will lurve the light, fantastic!! and congrats

I tend to use samsung 30Q in most of my lights, i prefer the IMR/INR cells over the general type and certainly protected. The 3500 iirc are 10a anyway which is more than needed for this light. I am sure i have read around 7a.......... if that is at the LED then between the cells its not a huge ask.

When standard cells may struggle to sustain turbo mode over 3.8v with sag for long, higher drain will help there and plenty of warnings to top cells back up with loss if higher modes. Never ran it down, but iirc again it flashes when low(need to have a search on that bit as again off top of my head).


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## monkeyboy (Mar 21, 2016)

Thanks, I'll give it a go and see what happens. I've ordered the light from HK, so hard to say when it will arrive. 

According to candlelamp's review, it blinks three times every 15 seconds when battery is low.


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## ven (Mar 21, 2016)

HKe if thats the shop are quite reliable, would guess at up to 10 days so not bad!!!

Yes, so plenty of warnings there, samsung 30Q are a good well priced cell if you decide on back ups at a later date. Little easier to fit due to being shorter as well!


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## Clinda (Mar 22, 2016)

Wanna buy one from Amazon, but it will take about 30 days to receive it.


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## DBrier (Apr 2, 2016)

I ordered mine from Amazon and it didn't take the full month to get here. I got mine in less than 2 weeks.
Not bad for coming from China.


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## monkeyboy (Apr 7, 2016)

Finally got my K60 today. Took 17 days from HK (HKequipment) to UK. I can confirm that the Eagletac 3500mAh protected cells fit and seem to work fine. This is a truly awesome light. These are my opinions on the light (nothing that hasn't been said already):

Pros
Obnoxiously bright
Decent throw
Good UI
Very reasonably priced for what you get

Cons
Wide battery tube uncomfortable to hold for long
Gets uncomfortably hot on Max output
Slight delay in switching on (having been off for more than a few sec)
Slight preflash going from 1lm to 50lm modes
I would rather not have standby and strobe modes at all

How the battery carrier and switch work (As far as I can tell)
This is not just a simple clicky switch that completes the circuit.
The battery carrier is reversible and both ends have common + and - contacts which are always live. At the head end of the light, only the +ve contact of the battery carrier makes contact with the head. The -ve contact does not.
The switch receives power through the + and - contacts at the other end of the flashlight. When the switch is clicked on, the -ve from the battery carrier is connected to the body of the battery tube, the battery tube makes contact with the head, and the light powers on.
The switch does not work at all when it is not receiving power. Therefore I conclude that the switch is in fact electronically controlled (despite being activated by a mechanical switch). It then follows that *there must be a standby current, even when the switch is clicked off*. (I have not measured this current).
To break the standby current, you would have to remove the battery carrier completely. Just locking out the light will not work.


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## ven (Apr 7, 2016)

Thanks for info on the switch and glad you like it.

The drain is minimal as I have left cells in for up to 3 months and they have been around the 4.15v mark, so nothing to worry about there.

Yes 4500 lumens gets the light warm quick but same breath ,the heat is being dissipated as it should, out and to the body/neck and away from the led. No different than my tk75vnq70 on similar outputs, really for long runs about 2500lm levels are sustainable., higher if the ambient temps are not too high.

Not noticd pre-flash on mine....not that it would bother me being honest . I do get it on my p60vn, going from 100% to moon.....on the 3 mode setting. 

Enjoy


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## monkeyboy (Apr 7, 2016)

Thanks ven. The pre-flash is pretty subtle to be honest. On my light, as soon as you turn the ring from 1lm to 50lm, it jumps up to let's say 200lm for 1/10s then back down to 50lm. Most people probably wouldn't even notice it unless it was pointed out to them.

... Must ... not ... get ... K70 ...

BTW: you can activate the light just by holding the battery carrier onto the head and tilting it so that the -ve terminal makes contact. (Be careful not to short it though!)


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## ven (Apr 8, 2016)

monkeyboy said:


> Thanks ven. The pre-flash is pretty subtle to be honest. On my light, as soon as you turn the ring from 1lm to 50lm, it jumps up to let's say 200lm for 1/10s then back down to 50lm. Most people probably wouldn't even notice it unless it was pointed out to them.
> 
> ... Must ... not ... get ... K70
> 
> ...


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## legendofzelda (Apr 26, 2016)

Just received my K60 from Amzn. Took 2 days. Now I need batteries for it. Which batteries will work that wont take 30 days to receive? Also, I see people are complaining about counterfeit / rewrapped LG 18655 batteries in the reviews on Amzn.l


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## harro (Apr 27, 2016)

legendofzelda said:


> Just received my K60 from Amzn. Took 2 days. Now I need batteries for it. Which batteries will work that wont take 30 days to receive? Also, I see people are complaining about counterfeit / rewrapped LG 18655 batteries in the reviews on Amzn.l



Be careful with the cells you run in your K60. As ven and others have pointed out, go for high drain, at least 10Q, and you wont run into problems. I run the genuine Acebeam 3400 high drains in my K60, but any quality high drain 18650 cell should see you right. If you have any doubts about a specific cell, then just dont use it. 

So, ven, a standard K70 now?? How does your vn version lack, if at all? ? Or do you use the excuse i use, ' whats the point of it sitting in a shop, when it could be sitting in my hands! ? '

Mike.


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## richbuff (Apr 27, 2016)

In addition to what *harro* indicates in the post above,

Quote from the Acebeam website: "caution:
highly recommend using unprotected high drain battery (ARC18650H-250A) which at least 20A 2500mAh, ..."

Please order batteries from a respected supplier. I order batteries from Going Gear. Genuine stuff, fast, friendly service. 

:welcome:


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## legendofzelda (Apr 29, 2016)

I had a chance to get get some video of my Acebeam K60 tonight. Here's a beamshot lighting up the Costco from my balcony. After using the K60, I'm putting my TN32 back in the box.


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## ven (Apr 29, 2016)

harro said:


> Be careful with the cells you run in your K60. As ven and others have pointed out, go for high drain, at least 10Q, and you wont run into problems. I run the genuine Acebeam 3400 high drains in my K60, but any quality high drain 18650 cell should see you right. If you have any doubts about a specific cell, then just dont use it.
> 
> So, ven, a standard K70 now?? How does your vn version lack, if at all? ? Or do you use the excuse i use, ' whats the point of it sitting in a shop, when it could be sitting in my hands! ? '
> 
> Mike.




I like the k70vn a lot Mike, certainly my fav thrower (pips the tn32UTvn) . My k60vn is de-domed so around 200kcd ish, more than adequate for my uses tbh! Would say the 60 is better for a more general throw/flood type use, due to the brighter spill and larger hot spot. Plus it has one of the nicest beams IMO (de-domed xhp70)

The 70 does not get near as warm as the 60 due to around 2600 V 4500lm , not really much I can say negative about the light other than the size may be an issue for some(same size as the 60). But to get this type of performance /throw/heat dissipation, it's not going to be a small light anyway. 

Both mine are fed Samsung 30Q cells 15a 3000mah but 10a on will be fine in either light. If run time is a priority then the 10a 3500mah cells make a good option too.


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## harro (Apr 29, 2016)

I must admit, the K60 has somewhat whet my appetite for a K70. Looks like a bit more overtime coming up, ohh well...
With a few weeks of the K60 under my belt now, its proven to be a great piece, for my needs. It pretty much leaves other big led
torches in the shade. If the '70 delivers, in its own way, as much as the '60 does likewise, its going to be a hard to beat
thrower.


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## ven (Apr 29, 2016)

Not sure what throwers you have but it should certainly deliver. It still has decent usable spill as well. Although similar cosmetically , the beams are quite different with spill brightness and large hot spot of the 60, tight more concentrated hot spot of the 70. 

If your after a very good thrower and like the form factor of the 60, you can't go wrong IMHO . Would be tempted for the vn version for a little current bump and heat sinking -570kcd.


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## BethAtTheHug (Nov 3, 2016)

Bought a stock K60 the other day, and today made a handlebar mount for my bike (I go through the woods and beach near home, it's not my on-road light). What can I say but absolutely fantastic!!

Thanks go to Selfbuilt for an excellent review that swung me to this torch.


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## ven (Nov 3, 2016)

We need a pic of this...........a k60 on the handle bars


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## BethAtTheHug (Nov 3, 2016)

Funnily enough I was thinking of taking a photie of it tomorrow. I did take some handheld 'beamshots' for my own amusement, you'll have to excuse the poor quality.




Acebeam K60 level 2, 50 lumens by Elizabeth Oldham, on Flickr




Acebeam K60, level 6, 5000 lumens by Elizabeth Oldham, on Flickr

Not exactly unexpected but good all the same - the heatsink kept the torch head and body cool whilst pottering about the beach, on level 6. Been using levels 3 and 4 mostly. Overall seriously impressed with it.


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## search_and_rescue (Jan 29, 2017)

Hi selfbuilt. Thank you for your scientific great reviews and yours are the best. Truly. I have 2 Acebeam® X65 and 1 Eagtac SX30A4.


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## ven (Jan 29, 2017)

BethAtTheHug said:


> Funnily enough I was thinking of taking a photie of it tomorrow. I did take some handheld 'beamshots' for my own amusement, you'll have to excuse the poor quality.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





Completely missed this!! awesome Certainly light up the beach for you


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## harro (Mar 10, 2017)

BethAtTheHug said:


> Funnily enough I was thinking of taking a photie of it tomorrow. I did take some handheld 'beamshots' for my own amusement, you'll have to excuse the poor quality.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Gosh, that 5000 lumens is only just adequate........


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## bwalker (Mar 27, 2017)

light-wolff said:


> I second that question.
> Current draw ist max 4.5A on level 6.
> 
> I made runtime measurements with Samsung 30Q, 35E, LG MJ1 and Soshine protected 3400mAh (NCR 18650 BF) on levels 5 and 6.
> ...



I just found a deal on the K60 on ebay that I couldn't pass up. However, I only have Nitecore NL189 and Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh protected cells. I've seen several references that these cells have a 6.8A max discharge rate. If the K60 draws a max of 4.5A as stated above then these cells I have should work fine, right? What is the benefit of running something like the Samsung INR18650-30Q. It has a much higher max current discharge but it doesn't seem like it is really necessary for the K60. Am I missing something? TIA.


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## harro (Mar 28, 2017)

FWIW, NCR18650GA's work fine in my K60 ( as well as the Acebeam 3400 high drains ), levels 5 and 6 are no worries. The cells are a pretty snug fit in the carrier, but not to the point of distortion or damage to the carrier.


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## BethAtTheHug (Mar 28, 2017)

bwalker said:


> I just found a deal on the K60 on ebay that I couldn't pass up. However, I only have Nitecore NL189 and Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh protected cells. I've seen several references that these cells have a 6.8A max discharge rate. If the K60 draws a max of 4.5A as stated above then these cells I have should work fine, right? What is the benefit of running something like the Samsung INR18650-30Q. It has a much higher max current discharge but it doesn't seem like it is really necessary for the K60. Am I missing something? TIA.



You're missing the voltage drop that happens with current draw. The NCR1865B cell voltage will drop more as current rises. The 30Q holds up better, for little loss in usable capacity. Put the two batteries into the comparator here: http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php untick the low current discharge boxes and tick the 5 amp one. 
Acebeam say you should use high drain cells with the K60.

I run mine with 30Q's.


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## bwalker (Mar 28, 2017)

Thank you for the replies as they are very helpful. I tried out the comparator. It is very interesting. I see what you mean about the voltage drop. Both the GAs and the 30Qs look like they would work very well with the K60. I may have to take it easy on the L5 and L6 settings until I can spring for some high drain cells. Thanks a lot for the clarification.


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## Capolini (Sep 27, 2017)

Thanks for the great review!

After the light steps down[2min.], can you move it down to level 5 and back up to level 6 to restore TURBO?

Thanks,,,Capolini


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## seery (Oct 6, 2017)

Capolini said:


> After the light steps down[2min.], can you move it down to level 5 and back up to level 6 to restore TURBO?



Yes.


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