# Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + more!



## selfbuilt (Apr 3, 2013)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *















It was a little over two years ago that I review the first model in the M3x-series of lights from Olight – the SST-50-based M31. This was quickly replaced with by the XM-L-based M3X, which now sports the new XM-L2 emitter (to be reviewed here).

Physically not much has changed, but let's put the new XM-L2 version through its paces and see how it compares to some other modern "throw" lights in my collection. 

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


Assembled with the latest Cree XM-L2 LED [Reviewer's note: Olight informs me my sample is a T6 output bin]
Two brightness levels and Strobe
Output/Runtime: Hi 1000lm (1hr 20min), Lo 300lm (5hr)
Supports 3x or 4x CR123A, or 2x18650 Li-ions
Beam intensity: 84,100cd
Beam distance: 580m
Impact resistance: 2m
The Crenellated bezel and tail designed for close combat
ATM (Active Thermal Management System) prevent flashlights, LED and other components from high temperature, it raises the reliability of the product.
Smooth reflector offers perfect beam and long throw
Shatter and scratch resistant and anti-reflective double coated ultra clear lens,
light transmission rate of 99%
Highly water resistant to IPX-8
Removable stainless steel clip
Dimensions: 1211mm / 8.30" (L) x 63mm / 2.48" (D)
Weight: 266g / 9.38oz (without battery)
Included accessories: Extended Tube*1; Holster*1; Battery Magazine *1; O-ring*4
MSRP: ~$130














The M3X comes in a presentation-style plastic carrying case, similar to the other M-series lights from Olight. Inside everything is firmly secured in cut-out foam. You will find the light with battery extender tube, manual, warranty card, battery carrier, spare o-rings, and belt holster. 













From left to right: CR123A; Olight M3X; Surefire UB3T; Jetbeam RRT-15.

With battery extender in place:













From left to right: AW Protected 18650; Olight M3X; Crelant 7G5CS; Klarus XT-30; Nitecore MT40; Thrunite Catapult V3; Sunwayman T40CS.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Olight M3X* no Extender: Weight: 260.9g, Length 211mm, Width (bezel): 62.3mm
*Olight M3X* with Extender: Weight 277.8g, Length 244mm, Width (bezel): 62.3mm 
*Olight M31* no Extender: Weight: 258.1g, Length 209mm, Width (bezel): 62.3mm
*Olight M31* with Extender: Weight 275.1g, Length 245mm, Width (bezel): 62.3mm 
*Crelant 7G5CS*: Weight: 334.5g, Length: 247mm Width (bezel): 64.0mm
*Eagletac GX25L2*: Weight: 198.3g (with battery pack: 290.1g), Length: 224mm, Width (bezel): 39.5mm
*Eagletac SX25L2*: Weight: 279.4g (with battery pack: 470.3g), Length: 239mm, Width (bezel): 47.0mm
*Klarus XT30*: Weight: 283.1g, Length: 247mm, Width (bezel): 58.0mm
*Niwalker 750N1*: Weight: 408.0g, Length: 269mm, Width (bezel): 58.6mm
*Sunwayman T40CS*: Weight: 296.7g, Length 227, Width (bezel): 63.5mm
*Thrunite Catapult V3*: Weight: 434.8g, Length: 254mm, Width (bezel) 58.0mm, Width (tailcap) 35.1mm.

The M3X has the same basic dimensions as the earlier M31 and M3X models, with a fairly wide head for this class.






















Physically, the build of the M3X hasn't really changed over the years. The M3X comes with matte finish type-III (hard) anodizing, in black. Rather than traditional knurling, the M3X continues to have the trademark Olight raised checkered pattern to help with grip. I typically find Olight lettering is bright and clear, and the M3X is no exception. 

Screw threads are not anodized on the battery tubes, but there is anodizing on the tailcap screw threads. So lock-out is possible, although it may not be as robust as where both sets of matching threads are anodized. 

The attached clip can be removed by unscrewing the retaining ring above it and pulling the clip off. The cover hides the attachment point in use.

The tailcap switch is a typical forward clicky, with good feel. Both the bezel opening and tailcap have raised scalloped edges. Like earlier lights, the M3X can also tailstand.

The included 3xCR123A/RCR battery holder is optional – you don’t need to use it in this configuration, but it does remove battery rattle if you choose to. The bore width of the body tube is wide enough to accommodate protected 18500/18650, so thinner CR123A cells are prone to some rattle. At the very least, it makes a good storage holder for an extra set of cells.

Note the spring in the head, so high capacity flat-top batteries can be used. All my 18650 cells fit, but some of the longer cells seemed to be under a fair amount of tension.

*M3X XM-L2 T6:*













As before, reflector is smooth, and both wide and deep. Coupled with the XM-L2 emitter Cool White emitter (which was well centered on my sample), I would expect very good throw. 

Note that you can distinguish the XM-L2 (shown above) from the original XM-L by the lack of bond wires over the die surface now, and the use of a silver mask (instead of green) outside the die/dome area. In case you are wondering, here is what the original SST-50-equipped M31 looked like:

*M31 SST-50:*









*User Interface*

User interface has been updated from the original M31, but I'm not sure when this change occurred among the M3X models. 

As before, turn the light on/off by the tailcap forward clicky switch (press for momentary, click for locked-on).

You choose output mode by the position of the head – tight for Hi, loose for Lo. You access strobe by doing a loosen/tighten or tighten/loosen head switch in under one second. There is no mode memory for Strobe – upon turning off/on, the light always returns to the defined constant output head state.

On the previous M31, you would do loosen/tighten switches of the head to move through all the output states (Lo > Med > Hi > Strobe, in sequence). 

*Video*: 

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

*PWM/Strobe*

As always, there is no sign of PWM at any output level – The M3X is current-controlled like its predecessors.  






The strobe is a fairly typical fast "tactical" strobe, of 9.5Hz frequency (as before).

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on 2x AW protected 18650 batteries. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 





























































The M3X has a very wide spillbeam for this class, with a sharply defined hotspot. This is the classic "thrower" style, and you can probably tell from the above that this light will throw far.

Of course, the true test will be in outdoor shots.  The snow is nearly gone here, so I should be able to get to these soon. In the meantime, here are some indoor shots. These will at least allow you to compare the throw and spill of the lights. For your reference, the back of the couch is about 7 feet away (~2.3m) from the opening of the light, and the far wall is about 18 feet away (~5.9m). Below I am showing a series of exposures, to allow you to better compare hotspot and spill.














The M3X definitely has the brightest (and largest) hotspot among by best 2x18650 XM-L-based throwers. :thumbsup:














I've thrown another XM-L2 light into the mix above (Eagletac SX25L2), but clearly it can't compete with the standard head. Eagletac will be sending me Turbo heads for those series, so we'll see how they do when they arrive.

_*UPDATE JUNE 18, 2003:* Below see a comparison of the M3X to the Eagletac SX25L2 Turbo head, and ArmyTek Barracuda - two recent XM-L2 lights. 

For outdoor beamshots, these are all done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground). 

FYI, any "streaks" you see across the images are bug-trails. Flying insects are often attracted to the bright lights, and their flight trails get captured as swirly streaks due to the long exposure time. 










As you can see, the M3X is an outstanding thrower, with a wider spillbeam than the other lights (especially the Barracuda). The Barracuda has the highest centre beam lux throw in my collection at the moment, but the M3X XM-L2 is very close. Again, ignore any tint differences above – they are mainly due to the automatic white balance setting on the camera._

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).






The Olight ANSI FL-1 output and throw specs for the M3X seem very good – my measures match them closely.  

The 91,000cd center beam intensity makes this the furthest throwing reflector-based 2x18650 light in my collection at the moment. Only the aspherical (collimator) lights are able to beat it (and even there, not by much). oo:

_XM-L2 vs XM-L_
I realize all this emitter talk may seem confusing, especially for those that don't keep up on the fine details of LEDs. 

Basically, these new XM-L2 emitters are very similar to the old XM-L, but built on a new process. Directly comparing back to XM-L is complicated by the more stringent testing and reporting measures Cree is now using for XM-L2 output binning. But there is actually an easy conversion - if you look up the Cree spec tables under the same conditions, you will see that _*the new XM-L2 bins are exactly two bin steps brighter than the same bin number on XM-L*._ So a XM-L2 T6 is basically the same thing as a XM-L U3. This is part of the reason for the switch to the new process - there is now more "headroom" on the new XM-L2 platform, and higher output XM-L2 emitters can ultimately be produced. 

In terms of lumens though, you have to keep in mind how the binning process works. Given the ~7% range within each bin, this means that for any given specific XM-L2 sample could be anywhere from ~7-20% brighter than a comparably bin-numbered XM-L sample. This is presumably where that "up to" 20% brighter statement comes from in the Cree literature.  But you need to keep in mind that on average, a XM-L2 T6 should be _~13% brighter_ than a XM-L T6, for example. You really have to think of these things statistically – the bins are a range, and you don't know where exactly in the range any given sample will fall. 

Olight doesn't typically publish output bin specs for their lights, but they have confirmed with me that my M3X sample uses a T6 output bin.

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*










On max, the M3X has very high output for the class, with no sign of any sort of step-down. It is interesting to compare it to the original M31 – as you can tell from the 2x18650 runtimes above, the M31 was clearly driving its SST-50 emitter very hard (i.e. runtimes were relatively low for the class). 

It is interesting to note that the "Lo" on the M3X is brighter than the "Med" mode of most other lights. Efficiency of the XM-L2-equipped M3X seems very similar overall to the Eagletac GX25L2, at all levels. Both Olight and Eagletac are known for their efficient current-controlled circuits. 

Let's see how the Olight lights compare on 2x18500 (which fit into the light with the extender in place):






These lights are not well suited to 2x18500, given how hard they are driven on 2x Li-ion sources (i.e., you are better sticking with good capacity 18650 cells). But it's nice to know the option is there if you need it.

For the CR123A runs, I am comparing below the M3X and M31 to a number of 3xCR123A and 4xCR123A lights (with the 3x runs in dotted lines, 4x runs in solid).






The Hi mode of my M3X performed better on CR123A primary batteries than my earlier M31. 

But to understand why, I need to first explain the apparently unusual behavior of the M31 on 3x and 4x primary battery sources (i.e., those rapid dips and partial recoveries). The older M31 is driven high enough on Max to_ trip the PTC safety devices of most primary CR123A cells_, when run over a sustained period. 

Simply put, a PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) functions kind of like a resistor or circuit breaker, and is incorporated into every primary CR123A battery. Technically, they are thermistors – circuit devices whose resistance varies with temperature (in this case, resistance increases with temperature, aka a posistor). Battery PTCs are of the "switching" type, which means their resistance rises suddenly once a certain critical temperature is reached. I have previously observed that there are marked differences in the speed in which made-in-the-USA cells will trip compared to made-in-China cells (i.e., made-in-the-USA cells trip earlier). My CR123A testing is done with made-in-China Titanium Innovations cells, which tend not to trip as easily. This conclusion, based on extensive testing in another light, is thoroughly discussed in this thread.

The point is that once the temperature reaches a certain threshold (which varies according to the battery manufacturer), the PTC resistance rises and current limitation kicks in, causing a rapid drop in output. Over time, the temperature drops and the cells recover, showing an uptick in output. This is what you are seeing on the earlier M31 traces above, which was hard on all primary batteries (even on my more forgiving Titanium Innovation cells). 

I am happy to report that the M3X doesn't seem to heat/drive the cells to the same level as the M31 (i.e., no sign of PTC engagement in these tests, using the same brand of cells as before). :thumbsup: That said, I can tell that the M3X current draw on Hi is still hard on the primary cells - I saw clear evidence of wrapper damage near the PTCs after these tests. Note that this wrapper damage issue is not unique to this light - I've seen signs of this before on many heavily-driven 2x and 3x/4xCR123A lights. But it suggests that had I been using made-in-the-USA cells (which trip earlier), it is possible that PTCs may have engaged to limit the current on the M3X as well. 

As such, I continue to recommend you do not run any of the M3x-series lights on Hi for extended periods on 3x or 4xCR123A cells. I would also recommend Olight introduce a step-down feature in this light, as they have in a number of their other models (e.g. the recent M22 and S20).

As with my other recent Olight lights, ANSI FL-1 runtime specs are consistent with my results.  Recall that I use lower capacity 2200mAh 18650 cells, and that the FL-1 standard calls for time to 10% output (not 50%, as reported above). 

*Potential Issues*

All M3x-series lights are heavily driven on Hi, with no automatic step-down feature. As such, I recommend you do not run the light on Hi for extended periods of time on primary CR123A or 2x18500. On Hi, the light is really best suited for 2x18650. 

Light lacks a true Lo mode (i.e., the included Lo is more like the "Med" mode of most lights in this class).

There is no bundled diffuser with the M3X, unlike other M-series Olights. However, the standard Olight filter from SR50/SR51 fits and works perfectly.

*Preliminary Observations*

First, the headline: the XM-L2-equipped M3X is the furthest throwing reflector-based 2x18650 light in my collection at the moment. :wave:

It is an impressive level of throw, coming close to some aspherics I've seen in this size. The M3x series has been around for a while now, and Olight has clearly optimized it for max output and throw in this class. I am happy to report that the M3X's ANSI FL-1 specs for output, throw and runtime appear to be very accurate. 

Those familiar with the M3x build will find little has changed in external appearance. User Interface has been simplified from the earlier M31, with just two constant output modes now (set by head tight or loose) and "hidden" strobe (accessed by a head twist). :thumbsup: This is different from earlier models, where head twists were used to change between three constant output modes and strobe (in sequence). I suspect most will find the new interface an improvement, but it does mean you lack a true Lo mode now.

I have always liked the wide battery flexibility of this series, both with the extender (i.e. 2x18650, 4xCR123A) and without it (i.e. 2x18500, 3xCR123A). But as I have noted in previous model reviews, this series is highly-driven on Hi (with no sign of step-down). As such, you may want to take care not to run the light in extended periods on CR123A or lower capacity 18500s (i.e., best to use good quality, high-capacity 2x18650 for extended Hi mode runs).

At the end of the day, this series remains a torch-bearer (pardon the pun)  for the reflector-based heavy-throw class. With appropriate common-sense about battery configurations on Hi, I think you will find the new XM-L2-based M3X is worth consideration in the massive throw class. 

----

M3X was provided by Olight for this review.


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## kj2 (Apr 3, 2013)

Thanks


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## holylight (Apr 3, 2013)

*Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + m*

Thanks2.


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## Swede74 (Apr 3, 2013)

*Re: Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + m*

I'm sorry to chime in when I have so little to say, but there seem to be an error in the caption for the photo that shows three lights side by side. (#9 from the top) It says "From left to right: AW Protected 18650; CR123A; Olight M3X; Surefire UB3T; Jetbeam RRT-15." but I can only see the primary cell and the lights.

With that out of the way, I thank you again for another great review. I'm amazed by how frequently you post them - are Canadian days by any chance 25 hours long?


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## selfbuilt (Apr 3, 2013)

*Re: Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + m*



Swede74 said:


> I'm sorry to chime in when I have so little to say, but there seem to be an error in the caption for the photo that shows three lights side by side. (#9 from the top) It says "From left to right: AW Protected 18650; CR123A; Olight M3X; Surefire UB3T; Jetbeam RRT-15." but I can only see the primary cell and the lights.


Yeah, I guess I'm just too used to having 18650s in my pics, must have typed it automatically. Fixed. 



> I'm amazed by how frequently you post them - are Canadian days by any chance 25 hours long?


Yeah, I have been burning the candle at both ends lately. But things will be going back to my historical norms for the next couple of months, I expect.


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## Eagle 1 (Apr 6, 2013)

thanks for the great review! just got the light and i'm wondering if i should use 4x rcr123s? cant seem to figure it out


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## SureAddicted (Apr 6, 2013)

Eagle 1 said:


> thanks for the great review! just got the light and i'm wondering if i should use 4x rcr123s? cant seem to figure it out



Using CR123s will gain you more lumens plus runtime over RCR123s. 
If peak output is your primary concern, then you'd go with cr123 then rcr followed by 18650. If runtime is your concern, then you'd go cr123, 18650 then rcr123.


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## selfbuilt (Apr 6, 2013)

Eagle 1 said:


> thanks for the great review! just got the light and i'm wondering if i should use 4x rcr123s? cant seem to figure it out


The manual makes no mention of RCR, or the max circuit range. Clearly, 3xRCR should work (given that it take 4xCR123A), but I don't know if 4xRCR is supported. 4xRCR ran fine in my original M31, but I haven't tried it in the M3X, so can't say for certain.

In any case, I think you are better using 2x18650 or 2x18500 as a rechargeable option. You loose capacity when you go down to multiple RCRs, and there is no advantage in terms of output (i.e., you just lose runtime). The M3x-series lights are heavily driven on Hi As such, I don't recommend 3xRCR (standard ICR) on Hi, as you will likely be running the cells pretty close to the maximum discharge rate.


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## AEHaas (Apr 13, 2013)

Without the extender I can pocket this light. I would call it the new King of Throw for easy to carry lights. If you need more time use the extender. If you need more light that is still portable use a Polarion.

This light is like having an Olight SR90 but in a much smaller package.

Am I missing something, why is there not much more discussion in this thread?

aehaas


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## selfbuilt (Apr 13, 2013)

AEHaas said:


> This light is like having an Olight SR90 but in a much smaller package.
> Am I missing something, why is there not much more discussion in this thread?


Yes, that's a good analogy.

I'm guessing the lack of interest in the thread stems in part from the fact that it is an existing physical build (i.e., the M31 and original M3X have been around for awhile here). So there's not much that has changed from previous reviews, except some interface differences - and of course, the throw.  Probably human nature, but I suspect people would have been more interested if it had a new model number and different styling (even if the functionality remained the same).


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## AEHaas (Apr 14, 2013)

Maybe you should change the title to reflect a New, updated M3X:

Revised M3X Extended Throw Update

aehaas


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## LiteHead (May 15, 2013)

Thanks, selfbuilt, for shrinking my bank account (again).

Quick note about the defuser (or lack there of):

My SR51 defuser fits perfectly on the M3X. I like to use it more as a protective cover for the lens, but it works great at defusing the beam.

If people out there don't have an SR51, they can order the defuser for one from Olight.


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## selfbuilt (May 15, 2013)

LiteHead said:


> My SR51 defuser fits perfectly on the M3X. I like to use it more as a protective cover for the lens, but it works great at defusing the beam.
> If people out there don't have an SR51, they can order the defuser for one from Olight.


Yes, I can confirm the SR50/SR51 diffuser fits and works fine on this light. I'll add that note to the review. It is available seperately, although it would have been nice if Olight had bundled it directly.


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## selfbuilt (Jun 18, 2013)

I have updated this review with outdoor beamshot comparisons of M3X to the Eagletac SX25L2 Turbo head, and ArmyTek Barracuda - two recent XM-L2 lights. 

For outdoor beamshots, these are all done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground). 

FYI, any "streaks" you see across the images are bug-trails. Flying insects are often attracted to the bright lights, and their flight trails get captured as swirly streaks due to the long exposure time. 










As you can see, the M3X is an outstanding thrower, with a wider spillbeam than the other lights (especially the Barracuda). The Barracuda has the highest centre beam lux throw in my collection at the moment, but the M3X XM-L2 is very close. Again, ignore any tint differences above – they are mainly due to the automatic white balance setting on the camera.


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## whatswrongwithmee (Jul 26, 2013)

I've noticed that some US ebay sellers are selling these for, A LOT cheaper. Why the sudden deep price drops for 1000 lumen version?


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## Capolini (Nov 1, 2013)

whatswrongwithmee said:


> I've noticed that some US ebay sellers are selling these for, A LOT cheaper. Why the sudden deep price drops for 1000 lumen version?



Greta review SB,,,,,,,,,,,,My addiction is calling again!

I have noticed that also! A $40 difference!! It is always a risk when you don't buy it off a dealer and get all the benefits most of them offer! I think the warranty would probably be out the window buying it from ebay/amazon ect.


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## Capolini (Nov 1, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> The manual makes no mention of RCR, or the max circuit range. Clearly, 3xRCR should work (given that it take 4xCR123A), but I don't know if 4xRCR is supported. 4xRCR ran fine in my original M31, but I haven't tried it in the M3X, so can't say for certain.
> 
> In any case, I think you are better using 2x18650 or 2x18500 as a rechargeable option. You loose capacity when you go down to multiple RCRs, and there is no advantage in terms of output (i.e., you just lose runtime). The M3x-series lights are heavily driven on Hi As such, I don't recommend 3xRCR (standard ICR) on Hi, as you will likely be running the cells pretty close to the maximum discharge rate.



SB,,,,Can it use the longer 18650 protected batteries? 69 to 70mm?

I looked up the AW 2200Mah 18650 you were using and they were on 67.8mm.

Thanks


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## selfbuilt (Nov 2, 2013)

*Re: Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + mo*

Should be fine. Typically, longer cells work fine in multi-cell length lights. If anything, it is shorter cells that typically have a problem in these lights (due to low tension).

EDIT: _to clarify one point - a potential issue with longer cells is too much tension on the batteries. This could lead to denting of the cells, especially the positive terminal (if it uses a very thin button top, for example)._


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## Capolini (Nov 2, 2013)

*Re: Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + mo*



selfbuilt said:


> Should be fine. Typically, longer cells work fine in multi-cell length lights. If anything, it is shorter cells that typically have a problem in these lights (due to low tension).




Thanks SB! :thumbsup: I saw on your review that the battery tube was wide enough for protected 18650, was not sure about the length!

I pulled the trigger on this one last night!! 

I got it for $6 cheaper than I got my M22!!  That is with the warranty[2 year] included!! It does not have the lumens that the TK-75 has but it has similar PBI and with only 2X 18650!!! It seems like a great torch!!


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## Capolini (Nov 6, 2013)

*Re: Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + mo*

"Expectations beyond logic result in disappointment!!"

That is one of my quotes. the logical thing to do is wait and see until you get the product[whatever it may be] and don't get your hopes up to much!

I just got the M3X a few hours ago and I am sending it back.

It is a shame because I know it is a great light, I just got a dud! At least I think so.

Center Beam: Not focused, blurry ,distorted with Mickey Mouse ears at 1,5, 7 and 11 o'clock. These were wall shots from about 7' away.
Also a very Yellow tint unlike any of my other XM-L or L2 torches.

I knew I was sending it back after that. I took it out anyway and noticed after about 10 minutes on high [FLASHBACK!] there was "Condensation" under the lens! About 1.5 times the diameter of a pencil.

I know it can be an impressive light by the throw I saw and I like the fact that although a bit long with [9.7"] it is relatively light.

Anyone else have any of these issue?? Rabbit ears, yellow tint and the worst,,,,"Condensation" under the lens?

*feedback appreciated*


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## Capolini (Nov 7, 2013)

*Re: Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + mo*

Whoever has this light I would appreciate some input with the thread that I started.

I did not include the "M3X" in the title!! My mistake. 

I got some answers and knew the others from past experience.

Most important is if anyone who also has/had the M3X has also had these issues!

Thanks,,,,,,,,Roberto

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...T-LIGHT-MANUFACTURER-SAME-ISSUE-AND-THEN-SOME!!


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## Capolini (Dec 21, 2013)

*Re: Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + mo*







*This is the "Boss", Capo. He encouraged me to be a "Flashaholic"!!* *He loves the M3X and TK75 because I can spot the deer after he gets their scent!!

HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE!! :santa:
*


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## Capolini (Dec 28, 2013)

*Re: Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + mo*

Short version!!

I was very impressed with my field test tonight. I tested my one and only modded light tonight[OSTS TN31mb] and that did very well. I also wanted to test my M3X,,,,,,,,,,it also did very well!!! :twothumbs

Par 5, 600 yards.Straight as an arrow. Three[3] eighty Foot Norway spruce behind the Green. These are the TARGETS.

Girlfriend on Green,I am on the tee! She was able to see a "Usable amount of light, light up the tree! 

THIS IS UNORTHODOX AND ONLY A VISUAL ESTIMATE! :thinking:

Barb had my M22. After the test I went through all "3" modes of the M22 and she said[as far as light intensity] as I shined it from 30 yards away,that somewhere between low[20lumens] and medium[250 lumens] best represented the illumination that she saw on the Norway spruce when I was 600 yards away with my M3X!!!

That is proof to me that SB's tests and most of the manufacturers that follow ANSI/NEMA standards are legitimate and pretty accurate! :thumbsup:


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## StefMug (Jan 2, 2014)

Hy there,
Is it possible to run the light with only one 18650 akku?


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## tedscossie (Jan 2, 2014)

Hi there and HAPPY NEW YEAR!!
i WISH TO EVERYONE ALL THE BEST FOR THE NEW YEAR!!
Now to the M3X....
i would like to ask if it is better than the Sr 51 from Olight?
Any reviews and differences please would be welcome!
I need a light that is a good thrower!

Ted


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## selfbuilt (Jan 2, 2014)

StefMug said:


> Hy there,
> Is it possible to run the light with only one 18650 akku?


Not that I am aware of. The body is designed for 3xCR123A (with the extender for 2x18650 or 4xCR123A), so 1x18650 won't make contact. The circuit is also unlikely to be powered by 1x18650, given the support for higher voltages.



tedscossie said:


> i would like to ask if it is better than the Sr 51 from Olight?
> Any reviews and differences please would be welcome!
> I need a light that is a good thrower!


As with all my reviews, many relevant comparisons are included in the output/throw summary tables and runtime graphs. You will find the SR51 data in the output/throw table in the review.


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## StefMug (Jan 3, 2014)

O.K. thx, what a pitty, the Catapult V3 can be driven with one 18650.

Is there any sort of low voltage protection built in the m3x? E.g. blinking at the end of battery?


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## tedscossie (Jan 3, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> Not that I am aware of. The body is designed for 3xCR123A (with the extender for 2x18650 or 4xCR123A), so 1x18650 won't make contact. The circuit is also unlikely to be powered by 1x18650, given the support for higher voltages.
> 
> 
> As with all my reviews, many relevant comparisons are included in the output/throw summary tables and runtime graphs. You will find the SR51 data in the output/throw table in the review.


Thank you very much Sb!!
I am going to get it today and i will post my conclusion after that!! ;-)
Ted


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## selfbuilt (Jan 4, 2014)

StefMug said:


> O.K. thx, what a pitty, the Catapult V3 can be driven with one 18650.
> Is there any sort of low voltage protection built in the m3x? E.g. blinking at the end of battery?


Yes, the Catapult is something of an exception in this class. As for a low voltage feature, I did notice flickering on CR123A when the cells were almost dead. But otherwise, I don't recall seeing any advance warning.


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## StefMug (Jan 23, 2014)

Hy,
now I bought a M3X and two Panasonic NCR 18650b with 3400 mAh.
But too late i realised that the panasonic 18650 are unprotected.
My Question is, what would happen if i go for a walk and do not turn out the light by myself, would the light go out automatically by around 3.5 V or will it deplete the akkus till they explode?

I have a voltmeter and a good charger (nitecore), so at home i can control the voltage, but what should i do outside in the field?


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## selfbuilt (Jan 23, 2014)

StefMug said:


> My Question is, what would happen if i go for a walk and do not turn out the light by myself, would the light go out automatically by around 3.5 V or will it deplete the akkus till they explode?


The light will drain the batteries until they are fully depleted, as there is no built-in circuit shut-down for low voltage. This will damage the cells, but will not cause them to explode. The risk with unprotected Li-ions is attempting to re-charge an overly-depleted cell. Check with the folks in the battery subforum for more info.

With unprotected cells, it is up to you to ensure they are always well-balanced for voltage, and recharge before they get overly depleted.


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## StefMug (Jan 29, 2014)

Thank you for explaining me the nature of my akkus  
I will messure the time at home till the akku drops to 3,0 V
So i can plan my tours within the maximum runtime...


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## ChrisGarrett (Jan 31, 2014)

StefMug said:


> Thank you for explaining me the nature of my akkus
> I will messure the time at home till the akku drops to 3,0 V
> So i can plan my tours within the maximum runtime...



The key to staying safe with Li-Ion cells, if you run them down, is to charge them back up quickly, within a day, or two, to be safe. Letting a cell with a resting voltage of 2.0v sit for a month, isn't a good thing.

Panasonic has a 2.5v low voltage target, without problems. LG, Samsung and Sanyo use a 2.75v number.

The above are naked, unprotected cells. The above, when protection circuits are added (AW, Redilast, Orbtronic, Fenix, Xtar, NiteCore, CalliesKustom, International-Outdoors, et al.,) will trip that circuit breaker above those nominal voltages that I list above, so you're a lot safer in the case of over-discharging a cell.

Even if you run your light down under heavy use and remove your naked/unprotected cells and get a 2.3v number, you'll probably get some bounce back after 10 minutes, so that's generally not a problem, but you need to invest in a decent/accurate digital multi-meter, if you're going to be playing with .

Chris


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## whatswrongwithmee (Feb 1, 2014)

Any chance of Olight doing an LED upgrade or adding a SS bezel?


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## zs&tas (Feb 27, 2014)

its only recently been updated so i doubt it. 
SB does that extender fit any other M series like an older non square thread M20 ?


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## selfbuilt (Feb 27, 2014)

zs&tas said:


> SB does that extender fit any other M series like an older non square thread M20 ?


I don't know, I don't have the old M20 easily accessible to test.


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## Capolini (Mar 9, 2014)

Gentleman, I have 5 modded throwers, one of which is 622Kcd[TK61vn],,,,,,,,,,and I still love and enjoy this[M3X] torch!!!

It is a very light light[not heavy], is impressively bright and throwy for a 2x 18650 torch. It gets great run time also. I went to another trail w/ capo my Siberian tonight. I used it for 70 minutes on max. It does not get hot, even though it has NO step down and I run hard like that on max.I bought it last fall. I still think that even when the summer gets here, it will still be able to run that hard without getting too hot,,time will tell!! oh yaa,, I got it for $89 and I still have the two year warranty this model of Olight takes!!:twothumbs


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## Capolini (May 14, 2014)

TESTING FOR CORRECT TIME ZONE!! THIS IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE STOCK TORCHES!!!

AWESOME,EXACT TIME NOW! **


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## franksr (Oct 31, 2014)

Hi. I'm a new member and first time poster. After discovering this forum, I quickly found selfbuilt's reviews and was blown away by his dedication and the thoroughness of his reviews. Not knowing anything about LED lights, and after reading this review, I ended up buying the 1000 lumen version of the Olight M3X for a great price. Specifically, I needed the light for seeing beaver on a 3 ½ acre pond. As I'm sure most of you know, shining a flashlight into a large body of water doesn't allow you to see much. The M3X works great for this purpose. I absolutely love the light and just wanted to say thanks and let you know how much I appreciate your dedication. Highly appreciated!


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## Capolini (Oct 31, 2014)

franksr said:


> Hi. I'm a new member and first time poster. After discovering this forum, I quickly found selfbuilt's reviews and was blown away by his dedication and the thoroughness of his reviews. Not knowing anything about LED lights, and after reading this review, I ended up buying the 1000 lumen version of the Olight M3X for a great price. Specifically, I needed the light for seeing beaver on a 3 ½ acre pond. As I'm sure most of you know, shining a flashlight into a large body of water doesn't allow you to see much. The M3X works great for this purpose. I absolutely love the light and just wanted to say thanks and let you know how much I appreciate your dedication. Highly appreciated!



Welcome! :thumbsup:

It is a great flashlight. I got it for bargain price[$89] w/ warranty! I have many modded lights and still enjoy using my M3X!


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## selfbuilt (Oct 31, 2014)

franksr said:


> Not knowing anything about LED lights, and after reading this review, I ended up buying the 1000 lumen version of the Olight M3X for a great price.


:welcome:

Glad you are finding my reviews useful. I agree with Capolini - while there are a lot modded/custom lights out there with massive throw, the M3X can be outstanding value for those looking for throw on a budget (with quality stock lights).


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## Fourgates (Dec 1, 2014)

Is there a 2014 version of this light? I see a 1200 lumen version on the net. Even Olight itself is showing 1200 lumens. M3X Triton? The market place is a mess. I like this light but not sure if there are big differences. Any clarification would be appreciated.

TIA.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 1, 2014)

Fourgates said:


> Is there a 2014 version of this light? I see a 1200 lumen version on the net. Even Olight itself is showing 1200 lumens. M3X Triton? The market place is a mess. I like this light but not sure if there are big differences. Any clarification would be appreciated.


It could be an updated output bin, but I doubt it - all the other specs are exactly the same as the ones I was given when this review was posted (i.e., the beam distance and runtime specs are unchanged from before). It is likely that Olight simply revised their official Hi lumen measure at some point in time, and only some dealers have updated their listings. The "Triton" thing is just the sub-name for the M30/M31/M3X series of lights.


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## ChrisGarrett (Dec 1, 2014)

Fourgates said:


> Is there a 2014 version of this light? I see a 1200 lumen version on the net. Even Olight itself is showing 1200 lumens. M3X Triton? The market place is a mess. I like this light but not sure if there are big differences. Any clarification would be appreciated.
> 
> TIA.



Battery Junction has the 700LM XM-L listed on sale, then they have the XM-L2 2014 1200LM version listed and then I've followed going back to January, their 1000LM XM-L2 (v.1?) version on Andrew-Amanda dot com, so yes...if you're not paying attention, it can be confusing.

The issue, besides differing 'throw distances' in the blurbs, is that they make no mention of the output bin, as SelfBuilt has stated.

This last one could be a tweaking of the reflector, or the driver, to give a bit more output, it could be going back to a LED emitter reading for lumens, or it could be the new, but uncommon XM-L2 U3 1A/1B emitter.

I wouldn't pay for the XM-L version what BJ wants, but A&A allows you to make an offer and I've seen the 1000LM XM-L2 ? listed for $89.95 on their Ebay ad with the all the factory gizmos, so if I were going to get one, I'd offer $80 for the v.1.

The 2014 for ~$130 really doesn't interest me and frankly, with only two modes, it's somewhat inflexible.

Chris


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## Fourgates (Dec 1, 2014)

I've seen the 1200 lumen for less then $110...


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## Fourgates (Dec 1, 2014)

The throw distance is different too, but iIf you're confident that they are the same then there's no point trying to get the higher lumen version. The 1000 lumen version can be had now for around $90, which seem like a really good deal.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 1, 2014)

Fourgates said:


> The throw distance is different too, but iIf you're confident that they are the same then there's no point trying to get the higher lumen version. The 1000 lumen version can be had now for around $90, which seem like a really good deal.


They may very well be different - I was just going by one site where only the lumen spec had changed (but not the throw or distance specs). But practically, it probably isn't a huge difference (if there is one at all).


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## SureAddicted (Dec 1, 2014)

From what I can recall, the 1200 LM version has 584m of throw, the 1000 LM versoin has 580m throw.
The other difference between the two is the storage case. The 1000 LM has the red latches on the storage case, the 1200 LM version has blue latches and different graphics, in line with their new color scheme.
Those specs are actually on the storage case.

OK guys, what do you make of this?
https://www.brightnite.com.au/olight-m3x-triton-1200-lumen-rechargeable-hunters-kit.html

Low mode is 400 lumens, on olights site it states it's 300 lumens.


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## ChrisGarrett (Dec 2, 2014)

SureAddicted said:


> From what I can recall, the 1200 LM version has 584m of throw, the 1000 LM versoin has 580m throw.
> The other difference between the two is the storage case. The 1000 LM has the red latches on the storage case, the 1200 LM version has blue latches and different graphics, in line with their new color scheme.
> Those specs are actually on the storage case.
> 
> ...



Like I said above, it looks like it's just a minor tweak. Maybe they increased the driver current at the expense of a little more heat, but we'd have to have both in our hands to see any physical differences.

That deal looks pretty good.

You get the light, which is $130 here, before haggling, you get two protected Olight 2600s and hopefully they're Sanyos, so another $30 there? That pressure switch has to be at least $20, or so.

You get an i2 charger, which runs about $15 here and you get that scope mount, which maybe goes for $20?

That's $215 shipped by my count and you get it for $210 (Aus $) shipped in Australia. If that's the way I was heading, that's a nice turn key deal right there.

You'll be able to see those kangaroos out to 550m before you blow 'em away.

Chris


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## SureAddicted (Dec 2, 2014)

ChrisGarrett said:


> That deal looks pretty good.



Oh no, you misunderstood me. I wasn't referring to the deal, rather the image of the specs.
Low mode is stated at 400 Lumens, everywhere else it's 300 Lumens.
That image has the updated specs for throw for the 1200 LM version.
This is the image below.


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## ChrisGarrett (Dec 2, 2014)

I'm no flashlight engineer, but either they retested their outputs and got a 'more accurate' figure, or they tweaked the driver current and this caused the high to bump up to 1200 and the low to bump up to 400.

I don't really care, so I'm not about to contact Olight, but having looked at them for a good while, I can see where some scrutiny is in order.

Chris


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## Taswegian (Dec 2, 2014)

StefMug said:


> Hy there,
> Is it possible to run the light with only one 18650 akku?





selfbuilt said:


> Not that I am aware of. The body is designed for 3xCR123A (with the extender for 2x18650 or 4xCR123A), so 1x18650 won't make contact. The circuit is also unlikely to be powered by 1x18650, given the support for higher voltages.



Hi , thanks for your review, excellent work! 

I noticed if i fit the M3X head to M2X Javelot body(single 18650) that it runs ok. Never tested it outside though, but it seemed to work alright. :thinking:


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## bdogps (Jun 1, 2015)

The one issue that I have encounter with this light is that the threads get dirty really quickly. I used silicone grease on the threads and eventually turn black. What happens is when I try to twist the head to change modes, it is unresponsive. I have to spend a great deal of time and mess cleaning the threads. I use wd-40 silicone(the one in the spray can)grease to clean them and then use nitecore silicone grease the threads. Has anyone come up with a solution for this or am I the only one that has this problem? [emoji15]


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## selfbuilt (Jun 1, 2015)

I wouldn't bother with much/any grease on the threads, just the o-ring. Problem is that it will migrate to the contact surfaces over time. Less is more on this case, and should result in less frequent cleaning required. 

Sent from my Z10 using Candlepowerforums mobile app


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## bdogps (Jun 1, 2015)

selfbuilt said:


> I wouldn't bother with much/any grease on the threads, just the o-ring. Problem is that it will migrate to the contact surfaces over time. Less is more on this case, and should result in less frequent cleaning required.
> 
> Sent from my Z10 using Candlepowerforums mobile app



Thanks mate. This is why I dislike the head twisting torches.


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## bdogps (Aug 19, 2015)

Hello,

I have an Olight m3x triton 2014 edition and I use the 2 18650 in series. I use 2 olight 18650 3400 mAh and they both are the same age as well. The light did not turn on, so I went to charge my the batteries. Odd enough, one battery was at 3.8 volts(more than half of its power) while the other one was at 4.2(full power). So it safe to assume that is time to replace these batteries or there is something wrong with the torch? I replaced the two batteries that were fully charged and the light turned on normally. Thank you.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 20, 2015)

bdogps said:


> I have an Olight m3x triton 2014 edition and I use the 2 18650 in series. I use 2 olight 18650 3400 mAh and they both are the same age as well. The light did not turn on, so I went to charge my the batteries. Odd enough, one battery was at 3.8 volts(more than half of its power) while the other one was at 4.2(full power). So it safe to assume that is time to replace these batteries or there is something wrong with the torch? I replaced the two batteries that were fully charged and the light turned on normally. Thank you.


It is hard to say without more information, but it sounds like a battery issue. I recommend you follow up in the batteries forum here - somewhere there may be able to explain the behaviour better.


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## bdogps (Aug 21, 2015)

selfbuilt said:


> It is hard to say without more information, but it sounds like a battery issue. I recommend you follow up in the batteries forum here - somewhere there may be able to explain the behaviour better.



Thanks mate. It was one of the battery protection board that was faulty. Once I removed the board, the battery stopped showing being fully charged. The torch is working fine. [emoji1]


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