# Lathe help and thread help.



## jamie.91 (Aug 13, 2015)

Hi guys, I'm jamie, been a member a while now. I'm 24 and I live in the UK.
I've FINALLY got myself a lathe 

I managed to snag an atlas series 3000 for £200 or about 310USD.

The guy I bought it from took the power feed off to repair two bad gears for the screw cutting. He couldn't find the parts and gave up so it came to me in pieces! 
If anyone has any info regarding how to rebuild it and where to buy parts of be grateful!

Next question, does anyone know the thread sizes for the surefire P/C/Z range? (Head and tail)
And the thread sizes for D cell maglites, I'd love to make a 1D shorty!

I'm struggling a bit with thread cutting, especially seen as I need to rebuild the thread cutting gearbox part of the lathe.

If anyone has any good info on cutting said thread sizes I'd appreciate that!

I'd also appreciate any tips on checking/adjusting the chuck to make as true as possible.

My first project is to melt some copper into an home made cast and hopefully make some copper rod to make my own P60 mule for my 6p work light so if anyone has made their own copper rod I'm all ears

I hope this is in the right section and sorry for all the questions

Thanks
Jamie


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## jamie.91 (Aug 13, 2015)

Here's a pic from the original owners manual that came with it.


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## jamie.91 (Aug 13, 2015)

And here's a quick pic just as I got it home, no cross slide on or tail stock in the


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## NoNotAgain (Aug 14, 2015)

Boat loads of Atlas lathe parts on eBay.


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## jamie.91 (Aug 14, 2015)

nothing on UK ebay I'll have a look on US ebay


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## DrafterDan (Aug 15, 2015)

If I recall, there is at least one post in here regarding threading. I remember asking for help myself a couple years ago when I was still learning. I still am leaning, of course! 
I also looked up threading videos on YouTube.


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## DrafterDan (Aug 15, 2015)

I tried posting a link from my phone, but it didn't Work. 
On a search on here for "common dimensions" and you'll find it. 
Good luck with the lathe, it will be interesting to see what you start creating when you get it up and running


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## precisionworks (Aug 15, 2015)

NoNotAgain said:


> Boat loads of Atlas lathe parts on eBay.




Second that. Atlas made about a kazillion of those & parts should be available for a long time on eBay USA.

Or, if you know pitch diameter, bore, thickness, etc., there should be a custom gear shop somewhere in the UK that will make the gear. Figure $100-$250 USD per gear. Custom cut gears get expensive in a hurry.


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## jamie.91 (Aug 16, 2015)

Thanks for the replies guys! 

I'll have a look on eBay USA, hopefully I'll get this thing back together.

Luckily I can still use it for cutting and stuff just no power feed.

My first project is I'm going to have a go at "smelting". I have some copper I'd like to melt down and pour into an home made cast and "try" to make some short copper rod that I can turn in the lathe and make a P60 mule drop in  wish me luck [emoji14]


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## precisionworks (Aug 16, 2015)

Ebay UK has a listing for Atlas Change Gear Set. I know nothing about this but it may (or may not) be what you want:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Atlas-Cra...e-Gears-Set-/121727597550?hash=item1c5787bbee
A number of other items are for sale on eBay UK for your machine.

eBay USA:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+change.TRS0&_nkw=atlas+change+gears&_sacat=0

Here's Plan B for copper rod stock:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...Xcopper+rod.TRS0&_nkw=copper+rod&_sacat=11804


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## DrafterDan (Aug 16, 2015)

Jamie, I don't know how much experience you have with metal work, you may already know this. 
For easy smelting, hit up your local jewelry supply store for something called Casting Grains. A couple years ago I made a sword hilt & pommel from a bronze alloy called Roma Gold. 






It has a nice low melting point, and flows well. I think it would work nicely for a heat sink/ mule. Always make more than you think you need!


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## jamie.91 (Aug 16, 2015)

Thanks for the tip! I'll definitely look into it! 
Sword looks sweet too [emoji5]️

Thanks for the links precision works! I'll have a look into those!


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## brickbat (Aug 16, 2015)

If you're just getting starter turning on a metal lathe, I'd advise against working with copper. I once assumed it'd be an easy metal to work, because it's so soft. It's not!


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## jamie.91 (Aug 17, 2015)

Really!? Why? Should I stick to aluminium ?


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## gadget_lover (Aug 17, 2015)

The cutting action on a lathe relies on a microscopic fracturing of the metal as it rotates against the edge of the tool. Soft, gummy metals don't fracture, so they need a cutter geometry that causes more of a shearing action. Pure copper is a fairly gummy material.

In the machining trades, each alloy is assigned a "machinability index" which helps guide the machinist when picking materials for a project. Of course, there are a dozen other characteristics that are also commonly used when choosing a metal.


The steel alloy 1212 is the standard against which machinability is measured. It's rated 100%. Aluminum bar stock is 360% to 450% ( or 3.6 times easier to machine). Pure copper's index is 20%.

Copper can be turned. You simply need the right speeds, feeds and cutting tool and setup. You also need to handle the fact that it will deform easily and jam if the tool grabs and digs in.


Dan


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## jamie.91 (Aug 17, 2015)

Thanks for the great info!
What cutting tool would you recommend? And will a standard HSS drill bit be ok or is that not great for using with copper either? 
I'm kind of doubting weather or not to use copper now trouble is I really wanted to use copper!
Would brass be a better option?


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## NoNotAgain (Aug 17, 2015)

Copper breaks off in chunks instead of coming off as a string. A very sharp point is required for metal removal. High speed cutting tools work OK. Also, copper because of the conductance gets very hot when machining. Watch for hot chips!

As for bronze, there are too many types of bronze to readily name. Use a cutting lubricant when machining. Bronze chips are almost sand constancy, so watch your eyes.

I'd suggest picking an machinist handbook as they will recommend speeds and feeds for various materials. The book will also go into depth on how to cut threads and what clearances are required.

The tip on machining aluminum is spot on. First, it's cheep, secondly it's a good practice material to learn about speed and feeds and how deep of a cut you can make while keeping the lathe from stalling and giving you a good surface finish.


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## gadget_lover (Aug 17, 2015)

Copper and aluminum are better conductors of heat than brass. Much, much better. 

I don't remember the best drill for copper. ( a long night) I think you want one with a shallow cut so it does not suck it in.

Dan


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## jamie.91 (Aug 19, 2015)

Thanks for the tips guys! Very much appreciated


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## TexasLumens (Aug 19, 2015)

The best copper I have found to work is Tellurium Copper. You still get to pick it out of your fingers but at least it is less like cutting bubble gum. Sit down to order... there is a danger of total blackout and heart failure when you price it. Tellurium does polish nice and will hold the polish a little better that the gummies. For high polish, red jewelers rouge and a muslin or cotton wheel is perfect as a final polish. TL.


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## precisionworks (Aug 20, 2015)

gadget_lover said:


> Copper _*and aluminum*_ are better conductors of heat than brass.



IMHO the best material for this is aluminum 7075-T6. (Avoid the more common 6061 like the plague). 7075 is as strong a some steels, machines beautifully & is inexpensive compared to almost any copper alloy.

http://asm.matweb.com/search/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=MA7075T6


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## brickbat (Aug 20, 2015)

jamie.91 said:


> Really!? Why? Should I stick to aluminium ?



I didn't say you should. I'm simply pointing out that starting out by turning copper is going to require a rare streak of genius that you've not yet demonstrated. Sometimes, it's nice to start with something thats likely to end well. But, hey, go ahead and melt your copper and post up some pics...

IMNSHO, copper is over-rated as a heatsink. Do the maths and see exactly how much of a difference it's likely to make over aluminum. And forget about brass it sucks for heat transfer.


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## brickbat (Aug 20, 2015)

precisionworks said:


> IMHO the best material for this is aluminum 7075-T6. (Avoid the more common 6061 like the plague)



...because 7051 turns easier, right?

That said, 6061 is way nicer to work than copper...


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## jamie.91 (Aug 21, 2015)

Thanks for the advice guys! I'll still have a go with the copper but I think I'll start with some aluminium after all


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