# Build to Order: FluPIG



## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

I'm testing out a design where the FluPIG can be put after a battery input (2V - 10V) and before the input to the converter board or if the converter board can be output disconnected, then after the converter board and before the led.

Basically, theh uP has a wide range voltage regulator so it can take 2V - 10V. 

I am using this N-Channel mosfet with low on resistance so power loss is at a very minimal: FDN339AN

I have two pads to put two mosfets incase someone requires really high current draw.

The software still has to be written but a majority of it is the existing FluPIC with the following changes.

1. PWM frequency for user level adjustment is now 480hz. The hand waving trick now longer works  

2. Burst will be removed because it no longer makes sense for burst

I need a day or two to collect ideas for some software features to add. Please add your ideas here.

As for beta testers, I need someone that is willing to try this out on many converter boards. PM me your e-mail address and we'll go from there. Thanks!


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## chesterqw (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

480hz... that is just too dang fast you evil monster! 

anyway, why does burst no longer makes sense? if that thing is use together with a hotlip, we can drive a luxIII to 2000ma safely i believe. or constant 1500ma!


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

I hope 488hz isn't too fast for some converter inputs.

Burst doesn't make sense becuase the user levels can adjust from 1% to 100% and burst would just be 100%. I guess I could leave it in as 100%. We'll see.


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## jar3ds (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

awesome! Goldserve do you sleep? 

I'm assuming the dimensions are still the same as the FluPic?

as I've been talking with you, I think a blink locator (user adjustable would be best I suppose) would really help a lot of people....

Hum... no idea the limitations of the board but could you do a voltage indicator (battery level)... so that when you switch into the mod... it would blink the number of times the voltage level is at.. 2 liion would start out @ 8 blinks.. then move down to 7 blinks.... etc... just brain storming


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

I'll add a blink locator. 

Blink, off for 2 seconds, blink, off for 2 seconds. I don't want to make this rate user adjustable because it just adds more clutter to the menus. We'll agree on a timing.

I can also add wave like strobe. Kinda like throbbing.

Regarding the battery measurement, this won't be included in this board because it is a piggyback board and not the FluPIC board itself.


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## chimo (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

This sounds interesting. Will this be a straight PWM setup? Your FLuPICs have current limiting LDO regulators. Will they be replaced by the MOSFET(s)? I am concerned about sending 10V pulses to some of the existing driver boards. This may be a great way to make a downboy or a wizard adjustable (gonna need that short stack now).

Paul


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

This part is meant to piggy back a converter board. It will send out what ever voltage depending on the converter used.

If you place this FluPIG between battery and converter board, it will just connect/disconnect the battery based on the PWM pulses.

If you place this FluPIG between the converter board and led, it will just connect and disconnect the led. However, this may cause problems with certain converter boards like the BB so that is why you would put it at the battery instead. Ideally, the best place is to put it between the converter board and led.


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## chimo (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*



goldserve said:


> This part is meant to piggy back a converter board. It will send out what ever voltage depending on the converter used.
> 
> If you place this FluPIG between battery and converter board, it will just connect/disconnect the battery based on the PWM pulses.
> 
> If you place this FluPIG between the converter board and led, it will just connect and disconnect the led. However, this may cause problems with certain converter boards like the BB so that is why you would put it at the battery instead. Ideally, the best place is to put it between the converter board and led.



Good, that's how I pictured it.  

I have a BBNexGen looking for a purpose in life. I believe it would be very happy to participate in a beta test. This combo should produce very flat run-time tests at all brightness levels. 

Paul


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

What chip is the BB using? I'm afraid 488hz is too fast. at 1% drive, the time shrinks to 200us.


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## chimo (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*



goldserve said:


> What chip is the BB using? I'm afraid 488hz is too fast. at 1% drive, the time shrinks to 200us.



You may be right the BBNexGen uses a TI chip (TPS61030). The typical osc freq is 600kHz (range 500-700kHz). 

Here is the start-up transient.


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## download (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

Is it possible connect FluPIG in between 2 x li-ion rechargeable and LuxIII or LuxV? 
What a fun begin. :goodjob:


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

Crap. Looks like I'll have to scrap the PWM and use a software PWM to achieve much slower speeds.

It would be better if we could just connect the FluPIG after the converter board. What is the no-load condition? Because the uP is still connected and drawing at max 1ma at all times.

Download,

In theory, that would be possible but it is not designed for that. 2 lions at 100% duty cycle would kill a luxV and as the voltage drops, there is no feedback to the FluPIG to re-adjust the PWM duty cycle to maintain brightness.


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

Anyone willing to try a BB board with the flupic between the lux and the converter board?


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## chimo (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*



goldserve said:


> Anyone willing to try a BB board with the flupic between the lux and the converter board?



Probably not a good idea unless someone wants to kill a BB.  

The other thing to consider is location of the switch. 

If FLuPIG is between the converter and LED, how would it behave during the transient to steady-state startup of the converter board? If the switch was between the converter board and the FLuPIG, the converter board would need output protection (and would waste power as it would be idling in the off state). If it is before the converter, the FLuPIG must deal with the on transients (longer de-bounce period?).

If the FLuPIG is between the battery and the converetr board, the converter board must run happily in the PWM duty cycle of the FLuPIG. 

I would prefer the location to be before the converter board or uPIC PWMing a switcher chip directly (eliminate the middle man).

Paul


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## download (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

I got some Lambda - MiniPro driver (MAX1797). Would it help?

http://pdfserv.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/MAX1795-MAX1797.pdf#search='max1797'

Could it support Bi-Pin bulb? like 6V 20W?


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

I actually prefer to put the FluPIG before the regulator too but i didn't include a battery contact on the other side. DOH. Anyways, this endeavour may not end up to be anything but at least I have another weapon I can use.

Cheers!


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## chimo (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*



goldserve said:


> I actually prefer to put the FluPIG before the regulator too but i didn't include a battery contact on the other side. DOH. Anyways, this endeavour may not end up to be anything but at least I have another weapon I can use.
> 
> Cheers!



Ahh, I see. I'm still game to do some testing (proof of concept) if you would like (it just may not fit into a neat package...yet). Cheers,

Paul


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

Cool. I may revert back to the current firmware and just send you a board to do some testing. Do you have any other converter boards? 

PM me your address and I'll get something out the door tonight if I have time. Thanks!


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## chimo (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

PM sent. I have a MiniPro board/parts and a stock Q3 board. The MiniPro has intrinsic output protection (open circuits to 5V max). 

Paul


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## BentHeadTX (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

Could I run a FluPIG with three CR123's and a LuxeonV? And if I do, how would I program the thing and what additional regulators do I need? I would love a two CR123A light running a 5W Cyan LuxeonV.


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

There is no regulation in the FluPIG AT ALL. It will PWM pulse 9V to the led and that won't be good. This is meant to be used in conjunction with some other regulation circuits.


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## Kryosphinx (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

So it's similar to georges80's D2DIM right? A circuit strictly designed to add additional modes to an existing circuit?


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

Yes. I thought george's was to do PWM regulation?

I guess DD hosts would work here. Match up VF of led/leds and match up supply. That will work. 

I still don't think driving 9V into a luxV for 200us would be good.


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## Icarus (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

 it seems like your pm box is full...


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

Cleared up a little!


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## vortechs (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*



goldserve said:


> The software still has to be written but a majority of it is the existing FluPIC with the following changes.
> 
> 1. PWM frequency for user level adjustment is now 480hz. The hand waving trick now longer works
> 
> ...


 

Hi goldserve, 

If you remove the burst mode, please replace its position in the FLuPIC state machine with '100% brightness' so that the FLuPIC continues to be a three level device (level 1, level 2, 100%). 

I may have some ideas for another FluPIC mode (state machine) that I'd like to see. I was thinking about a mode where the light comes on dim and then increases in brightness up to max; if it is turned off and immediately on again while it is 'ramping up', it holds that brightness. I think this would basically be making the first state 'set brightness 1' and the second state 'brightness 1'. This pair of states is somewhat like to the LRI Photon Freedom interface. The remainder of the states beyond the first two could be as normal (burst, strobe, SOS, off, set mode). This state machine would only need one brightness level, since it gets set every time. There are some variations on this theme, such as making the first state 'brightness 1' and the second state 'set brightness 1' and the third state 'brightness 1' (again) so that the light remembers the last brightness and comes on at that level rather than always starting dim and increasing. Another variation would be to make the first state 'brightness 1' and the second state 'set brightness 2' and the third state 'brightness 2'. 

The rationale for including a mode that ramps through the brightness levels each time is that this allows more brightness levels to be available without requiring ridiculous numbers of twists (JIL Intelli) to access them. For instance, the current FLuPIC firmware basically has three brighness levels (1, 2, burst) in most modes so I can access them all in 3 twists, but if I wanted five brightness levels it would take 5 twists or seven brightness levels it would take 7 twists. Using one twist to step up (or down) the brightness one level quickly becomes impractical when the number of levels exceeds three; beyond this point it becomes more practical to have the light automatically cycle through the available levels and let the user simply stop it at the level they want. This special 'set brightness' mode might have a different timing and number of levels than the normal 'set user brightness' mode in the current FLuPIC firmware, which cycles through 15 discrete levels. For instance, it could cycle through about 5 levels at 1/2 second increments or it could continuously vary the brightness from min to max over a period of about 3 seconds. 

I'd really like to have a mode like this in my JIL Intelli (in addition to the 5 modes that are currently available). Please let me know if it is even possible to do something like this in the FLuPIC firmware.


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

This is very well possible to do but it will have to be custom for you. I may be too busy to do this but we'll see. We can talk about your custom interface offline. PM me and i'll give you my e-mail/msn...


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Need beta-testers for FluPIG*

THIS PROJECT IS DISCONTINUED.

I can mod existing flupic boards to fit this need if necessary. Thanks!


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Discontinued FluPIG*


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## goldserve (Apr 4, 2006)

*Re: Discontinued FluPIG*

As a proof of concept, I hooked up a fenix converter to my the FluPIG driver...





And it works!


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## vortechs (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Discontinued FluPIG*

Does this mean that there is a way to create a mod for the JIL CR 1.3W that can both boost 3V primaries and limit 4.2V Li-Ion's that are hot off the charger? 

Sorry if this is a silly question. I need to learn more about sandwiches and other available electronics. It just takes a lot of time and reading to figure it all out and I have not had the time to do it yet.


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## goldserve (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Discontinued FluPIG*

That depends on the driver on the other side. This could give stupid drivers, just boost type drivers the programming ability. This could be hooked up after a micropuck in the jil 1.3W but there is also an issue of room and compatibility. 

Maybe I was lucky the fenix driver works =D


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## goldserve (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Bild to Order: FluPIG*

Okay, so this project hasn't be discontinued. Just that PCBs won't be made for them because the demand isn't great and we can use the original boards to do this. Cheers!


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## sflate (Apr 10, 2006)

*Re: Bild to Order: FluPIG*

Can I convert my existing .55" FluPic to FluPig? Do you have instructions? I'd love to use it with a BadBoy and shove it into a 2AA MiniMag somehow.


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## goldserve (Apr 10, 2006)

*Re: Bild to Order: FluPIG*

It is like exactly like what you see in the post above but as you have read, there are problems with output disconnect so the best possibility is to try to connect the flupig in between the battery and the BB.

You'll need that N-channel low RDSON mosfet.

Cheers!


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## IsaacHayes (May 3, 2006)

*Re: Bild to Order: FluPIG*

Hmm. Can't beleive I missed this, as I think I was part of what sparked this experiment.

So what's the verdict on BB's with switching the input? Anyone tried it with success? Or only the Fenix driver so far has worked?

hmm.


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## Darksky (May 19, 2006)

Here we go then

A FluPIG doing its thing piggy backing a Lambda Minipro.
Works both ways round between cell and minipro and has you see it below between minipro and a 3w luxeon.
I have it this way because if you look at the picture it's being powered off a single AAA cell:goodjob: 

We have light (on a low setting as any higher the camera wasn't having it)






A closer look






Eryk


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## PhotonAddict (May 23, 2006)

I can't believe I missed this either. Has anyone tried it with a Downboy converter? I originally considered an Nflex but it's not really suited for use with a typical light with a tailcap switch. If this project is still on, I would be interested in trying one depending on the cost. 

A BB Nexgen would be interesting as well, but judging from chimo's post it looks like it won't work(?). I guessing a Madmax would work - I recall seeing in a post that it uses the same chip as the Lambda's minipro.


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## goldserve (May 23, 2006)

I'm not quite sure what will work with the flupig.

I know the Fenix driver works, Minipro as stated above.

If you'd like to test it out, PM me and I can arrange something. Be sure it is not the BB because it won't work. If the converter blows up when output disconnected, it will not work.

If you put it on the input side, you are once again limited to the battery type used...


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## Kryosphinx (May 23, 2006)

Does the FluPIG limit current like the FluPIC?
If it did, having it in conjunction with a boost circuit would make a boost/buck circuit. Perfect.


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## IsaacHayes (May 23, 2006)

Perhaps the voltage regulaters work with the flupig on the output side. But constant current like NG/BB won't as they fry when the connection to the load is opened. And since they run at a certain turn on frequency, putting it before them won't work.

This is good for direct drive applications. Once I have funds (god how many things do I want and I say that?) I plan to build a quad or tri cyan DD from 3x NIMH with K vf luxeons. They DD perfectly, and the flupig will give me strobe/etc..


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## PhotonAddict (May 24, 2006)

o.k. , just read some of the earlier posts again, including IsaacHayes'. Boy I'm slow tonight. Sorry, I'm trying to get up to speed on this and some of the info in the original flupic threads. I get it now, the BB isn't open load protected so it will fry with the flupig on the output of the NG/BB when it switches during the PWM cycle. Goldserve are you still thinking about using software PWM to slow down the switching to allow placing the converter at the input of the NG/BB?



IsaacHayes said:


> Perhaps the voltage regulaters work with the flupig on the output side. But constant current like NG/BB won't as they fry when the connection to the load is opened. And since they run at a certain turn on frequency, putting it before them won't work.
> 
> This is good for direct drive applications. Once I have funds (god how many things do I want and I say that?) I plan to build a quad or tri cyan DD from 3x NIMH with K vf luxeons. They DD perfectly, and the flupig will give me strobe/etc..


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## PhotonAddict (Jun 10, 2006)

Just a quick update to add to this thread. I finally got around to testing it with a Downboy 750. I'm using the flupig on the output side - still getting the hang of the different modes, but so far so good. 

Would it be possible to program a version with fewer modes? I'm planning on a mod that may become an EDC and i'd like to keep the interface relatively simple.

btw: that strobe is really effective!


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## Sengoku (Jun 10, 2006)

So would this work with a BB500 and LuxV WYOS? my KL1 mod is screaming for one of these!


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## IsaacHayes (Jun 10, 2006)

Hmm good news on the downboy.


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## PhotonAddict (Jun 11, 2006)

I managed to fry my flupig yesterday  
I set it to run on low (approx. level 3) and after approx. 2-3 minutes I checked the downboy and was impressed at how cool it was since it can get very warm on high. At that point I noticed the light flickering and eventually switch to max. brightness. I checked the flupig and noticed that it was hot so I turned everything off. 

The flupig appears to be toast now. I can no longer access any of the modes on it - it is essentially stuck on max. brightness now. The Downboy still works.

Does the flupig dissipate more power when it low mode vs. high due to the PWM? I have run it on max. brightness before for just as long and it always remained cool.


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## PhotonAddict (Jun 11, 2006)

Sengoku, it probably isn't the best choice for a BB500. THe BB doesn't like being disconnected from the load so placing the flupig between the BB and LED won't work, and the switching freq. may be too high to place it between the BB and the battery (although no one has tested it yet).



Sengoku said:


> So would this work with a BB500 and LuxV WYOS? my KL1 mod is screaming for one of these!


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## goldserve (Jun 11, 2006)

I believe when the flupig disconnects the BB, the BB ramps up the voltage in order to maintain the current and it went well beyond the 10V max input. The flupig is more meant for step up converters and not constant current regulators.



PhotonAddict said:


> I managed to fry my flupig yesterday
> I set it to run on low (approx. level 3) and after approx. 2-3 minutes I checked the downboy and was impressed at how cool it was since it can get very warm on high. At that point I noticed the light flickering and eventually switch to max. brightness. I checked the flupig and noticed that it was hot so I turned everything off.
> 
> The flupig appears to be toast now. I can no longer access any of the modes on it - it is essentially stuck on max. brightness now. The Downboy still works.
> ...


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## sflate (Jun 11, 2006)

PhotonAddict,
Exactly how did you have the FluPIG connected to the Downboy? Here's how I have it connected to a Milermod 1.7/3.5w circuit - and I haven't had any problems, but I also haven't run it for very long. Note that the Millermod driver LED+ is connected to the FluPIG 'Input' and not to FluPIG V+. Which way did you have it?


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## goldserve (Jun 11, 2006)

the MM boards are boost regulators and don't mind too much that the output is disconnected but if the output on the downboy is disconnected, the voltage will ramp up until it can maintain the current which it cant really...


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## PhotonAddict (Jun 11, 2006)

Thanks for the feedback everyone.



goldserve said:


> I believe when the flupig disconnects the BB, the BB ramps up the voltage in order to maintain the current and it went well beyond the 10V max input. The flupig is more meant for step up converters and not constant current regulators.



goldserve: Are you referring to the BB here or was it just a typo and you're actually referring to the Downboy I've been using? Your point about constant regulators in your other post makes sense, but I'm assuming the Downboy, which is a buck regulator, won't increase it's output voltage beyond its input voltage which was ~8.4V max (2x14500) in this case. (?). Would placing the FluPIG be an option provided the input voltage is less than 10V and the current is less than 3A? (the limit on the mosfets)

I'll probably send you a PM with regards to buying another one. I didn't have a chance to try it with a MM+ before I wrecked it. 


sflate: Yup, that is how I have it connected. The output of the Downboy goes to the input and GND of the FluPIG. (I just checked again to make sure). It worked when I first wired it up, I only ran into problems with it yesterday when I tried to run it on low for a couple of minutes.


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## sflate (Jun 11, 2006)

I was going to post that Dat2zip has stated that the Downboy is 'no load' protected - but I see PhotonAddict is the one that asked the question!!

Downboy 'no load' protected


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## sflate (Jun 12, 2006)

PhotonAddict,

Could you tell which chip on the FluPIG was hot?


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## PhotonAddict (Jun 12, 2006)

The largest one .. sorry, that's not very technical is it  The one marked "12F629". 
What are the chances of being able to replace it? Then again, I'm guessing it's not worth the effort for what little savings one would gain.... and it might not be the only thing that's been damaged.

Goldserve, I tried replying to your PM earlier today but your inbox was full. I try again later or maybe e-mail if you don't mind.



sflate said:


> PhotonAddict,
> 
> Could you tell which chip on the FluPIG was hot?


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## goldserve (Jun 12, 2006)

If the largest one is getting hot, then it does mean too much voltage is going into it. Anyways, PM me again and i'll set you up with anther one! Thanks!


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## PhotonAddict (Jun 14, 2006)

Darn, so that's definitely a no-go for the Downboy. I was really hoping this would work with a buck converter. Is it even worth trying it between the battery and the Downboy or would the PWM freq. be too high?


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## IsaacHayes (Jun 15, 2006)

I would think that the FLupig on the input side of a convertor wouldn't damage either one. It may not work right, but I don't think you'd see any bad effects.


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## sflate (Jun 15, 2006)

What voltage are you using? Don't forget you can't go over 5v into the FluPIG. (Correct me if I'm wrong Goldserve)


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## goldserve (Jun 15, 2006)

I put a LDO regulator that can handle up to 10V input.The uP requires very very little current so no problems there. The rest of the input is then hooked up to the LED and PWMed...


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## PhotonAddict (Jun 16, 2006)

Thanks for the input everyone. My input will be a max of 3 CR123s or maybe 2 Li-Ions so I'd barely be within the limit. What is the limit on the current for the FluPIG? 

At any rate, I may try the FluPIG before the DB with CR123s after I try it with a MM.


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## goldserve (Jun 16, 2006)

I'd go with 2 RCR123s just to be a bit lower. I'm weary of puting batteries in series now a days due to Lunar's experience...

The current limit is around 3A. Well, there is no limit...but if you draw more than 3A...you may blow the mosfet...


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## PhotonAddict (Jun 16, 2006)

Goldserve: It's like you read my mind... I was thinking that as I was typing my last post.
LunarModule's experience was unnerving indeed - thankfully it was not as bad as it could have been. Funny thing is that I pretty much stuck to NiMHs for a long time until very recently... a good reminder to be careful with such energy dense cells.


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## marcdilnutt (Aug 1, 2006)

Ok,
I think this is what need to complete my SF L4 mod. Has anybody tried this out with a BB board (on either side of the converter)? Or would another converter work better?
marc


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## goldserve (Aug 1, 2006)

i'm afraid the BB won't work with the flupig. Best to try another converter. There aren't many i know of that works right now. Maybe a DD setup would be cool?


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## marcdilnutt (Aug 1, 2006)

I will have another think then, i want to use primary cells so dd is out. Thanks for the advice. marc


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## Sawtooth (Aug 1, 2006)

goldserve said:


> i'm afraid the BB won't work with the flupig. Best to try another converter. There aren't many i know of that works right now. Maybe a DD setup would be cool?



Do you think it would work with a luxdrive buckpuck? It has the capability to be driven externally by a PIC (or whatever else). I would not want to put use the FluPIG between input and puck or between puck and LEDs. Instead I would want to use the FluPIG to modulate the control inputs. Is that possible?


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## goldserve (Aug 1, 2006)

I need some info on the luxbuck puck. I'll let you know once i look at the datasheet.


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## Sawtooth (Aug 1, 2006)

Here is a link to the datasheet:

http://www.leddynamics.com/LuxDrive/datasheets/3021-BuckPuck.pdf

Check out figure 15.


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## goldserve (Aug 1, 2006)

The buck puck looks good. Looks like it could control it pretty well with a low frequency PWM signal. Cheers!


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## marcdilnutt (Aug 2, 2006)

I will have a look at the datasheet later, but if you think it will work alright i will try it. I may need a few pointers as to how to wire it up, i am no electronic engineer! marc


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## greenLED (Aug 9, 2006)

I have a MM+ board that I'd like to contribute to the cause if needed. I'm interested in knowing if this works, and if the setup would work in a L1p-like mod host. I'd love to add FluPIC capabilities, and retain the 1xAA energy source.


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## goldserve (Aug 9, 2006)

Seeing how you successfully went about getting a heatsink made for the arc-ls, you should be able to copy the L1P or L2P heatsink but make more room inside.

I see two things that can be done. The lip holding the converter board can be made not as deep and also, bore out more material on the underside of the fenix can to make more room. All that is needed is 1.0mm more to fit the fenix board with a flupic board piggy backed. 

I've tried the fenix circuit and it works with the flupig. I have yet to try the L2P circuit but I see it is better. This was my original project but school work got to me and i don't have any time to coordinate the machining efforts here. Cheers!


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## greenLED (Aug 9, 2006)

goldserve said:


> Seeing how you successfully went about getting a heatsink made for the arc-ls, you should be able to copy the L1P or L2P heatsink but make more room inside.





I haven't started fully thinking about that one, but I may have sent a couple of questions and pictures to some folks. Unlike the LS, there's "plenty" of room (comparatively speaking) to play with with the Fenix heatsink.

If that project happens, it'll be a bit later, too many things on my plate right now. I'll keep your suggestions in mind, though - that'd be a killer combo!


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## sflate (Aug 9, 2006)

You should be able to fit the Madmax and FluPIG in a Fenix head without any problems. It will be a tight fit though. I was able to fit a Millermod driver with a FluPIG into a Fenix L2P head. It sticks up about 1/8" over the stock heatsink. I happen to find by accident a brass o-ring at the hardware store that was the exact size of the top of the heatsink and about 1/8" or so high. I could have just soldered it on top of the heatsink and used it like that to give the heatsink more depth, but I decided to cut the brass o-ring into 2 halves, then cut a hair off of each of the 4 exposed ends. I then soldered it on top of the heatsink so that the 2 grooves to remove the head would remain intact. I don't have any pictures or I'd post one. I can take one if you need me to. I kept the package for the o-ring. I'll have to dig it up and see the part number. BTW, the Millermod is significantly higher than the Madmax driver. That's why I'm guessing you won't have any problems with the Madmax. Since my Millermod driver was Fenix sized and was the one farthest out from the head, I used the .55" sammie / .6mm thick FluPIG, not the Fenix sized FluPIG that is 1.2mm thick. If your Madmax is Sammie sized you may not be able to do this without more modding.


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## greenLED (Aug 23, 2006)

FluPIG= FluPIC board + some other converter board?

I'm getting some Fenix L1p (clone host) heatsinks made, and I'll try an AAA size FluPIC with a MM+. (Don't hold your breath on that one, though.)


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## chimo (Aug 23, 2006)

greenLED said:


> FluPIG= FluPIC board + some other converter board?
> 
> I'm getting some Fenix L1p (clone host) heatsinks made, and I'll try an AAA size FluPIC with a MM+. (Don't hold your breath on that one, though.)



You could think of the FLuPIG as somewhat similar to the Li-ion Heart/Cub series drivers in operation. Instead of the uC PWMing LDO regulator(s) (as in the FLuPIC), it PWMs a MOSFET so the upper current limitation is more or less wide open.

Paul


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## greenLED (Aug 23, 2006)

chimo said:


> You could think of the FLuPIG as somewhat similar to the Li-ion Heart/Cub series drivers in operation. Instead of the uC PWMing LDO regulator(s) (as in the FLuPIC), it PWMs a MOSFET so the upper current limitation is more or less wide open.


 I'm sorry, I couldn't help laughing at myself (yet again). That really went over my EE-impaired head the first 10 times I read it. I (think) I get the gist of it, but I'm not sure I fully understand yet. 

I'm confused because sflate mentioned hooking up a regular FluPIC board to a MillerMods circuit and for some reason I've been thinking the FluPIG is a completely different animal (converter) than the FluPIC's.

I guess what I'm trying to figure out is what exactly is (a?) FluPIG? Is it a physically different board, or a way of hooking up a FluPIC board to another circuit?

:thanks: for bearing with me


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## chimo (Aug 23, 2006)

Sorry Migs, the FLuPIG is like a smart switch. It varies how long the switch is turned on to regulate the brightness. The FLuPIC operates similarly, but the FLuPIC also limits the output current. The idea behind the FLuPIG is to provide additional control when combined with other driver boards that do not offer things like dimming, strobe, sos, etc...  

Paul


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## goldserve (Aug 23, 2006)

greenLED,

The flupig board is a PWM board that switches a mosfet. It is sort of like george's dim2dim if I am not mistaken. Cheers!


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## greenLED (Aug 24, 2006)

:bow: Thank you kindly, gentlemen. It is much clearer now (especially after reading a bit on MOFSET's).

What would be the long-term effect of connecting a regular FluPIC board to a separate converter, like sflate did, then? (post #49)


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## sflate (Aug 24, 2006)

I didn't connect a FluPIC board to anything, that picture is a picture of a FluPIG board. Sorry for the confusion.


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## Walt175 (Aug 25, 2006)

sflate said:


>


 
I was inspired by this to try a little experiment. I took a Fenix L1P shell I bought off of the BST, a L2P driver, a SXOH emitter, and an ARC sized FLuPIC, and came up with my FrankenFenix. I had to narrow the ARC board a little to make it fit, but everything fits and works fine. I made a new EDC light that, when using various bodies, can run on several batteries. I can use AA alkies, AA lithium, AA nicad, AA nimh, 2x the various AA's in a L2P body, 1/2 CRV3, 14500, CR2, or CR123. All the FLuPIC modes work with all the battery types. When using the 14500's, burst mode is as bright as my Jet-I! 
I have been using this light as one of my EDC's for over a month allready, and so far I have seen no adverse effects from running the FLuPIC off of a boost circut.
I've been Prodding Greenie to make one too, and he suggested I play nice and share with everyone.


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## goldserve (Aug 25, 2006)

Waltz,

The fluPIG should be a better fit because you won't have the LDO regulators to drop the voltage therefore the efficiency should be better. All the flupig does is switch the mosfet (open/close switch) so there is no loss there.

Cheers!


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## havand (Aug 25, 2006)

I'm picking up a liteflux and am probably going to replace the led with a u-bin. If that isn't bright enough, i don't know. We'll go from there. I'll put a U-bin K2 in there if i have to. Any ideas on how to drive that thing to 1.5A on burst mode??? (i mention this b/c i want to put a flupic like board in it if i can get one that'll handle that current)


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## goldserve (Aug 25, 2006)

I dont know of any driver that will drive the current U bin K2s at 1.5A. At 4V, 1.5A = 6W!!


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## havand (Aug 25, 2006)

Could i put two drivers together in parallel with diode's on their hot leads?? :shrug:
EDIT: And please excuse my constant questions on this subject..I'm new and i want to learn about this stuff like its my job


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## Walt175 (Aug 25, 2006)

goldserve said:


> Waltz,
> 
> The fluPIG should be a better fit because you won't have the LDO regulators to drop the voltage therefore the efficiency should be better. All the flupig does is switch the mosfet (open/close switch) so there is no loss there.
> 
> Cheers!


 
I had thought about trying that first, but couldn't get an ARC sized FLuPIG.  
I had to work with what was available.


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## goldserve (Aug 25, 2006)

havand said:


> Could i put two drivers together in parallel with diode's on their hot leads?? :shrug:
> EDIT: And please excuse my constant questions on this subject..I'm new and i want to learn about this stuff like its my job



I keep on trying to deter you away from the idea of driving the K2 at 1.5A. It really wasn't designed for that in flashlights. Maybe some of georges80 drivers can drive up to 1.5A. Check those out...


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## havand (Aug 25, 2006)

I appreciate that. I understand driving them at 1.5A is not that good. You increase power 50% for a 30% increase in brightness. Lots of extra heat. My objective was to run it 99% of the time at 1A, but i really wanted to have that 1.5A there for those few rare occasions i just wanted the most light I could possibly get (for short periods of time). But, I'm starting to agree with you more. Based on the costs and difficulty in finding drivers that will do 1.5A, I am probably going to give that idea up. 

Thank you for your help, Sorry for being a pain.


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## goldserve (Aug 25, 2006)

The LuxIII T, U bins have great potential too. Low in VF means more energy efficient. You should give those a try =D


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## greenLED (Aug 25, 2006)

:twothumbs Walt!!





goldserve said:


> The fluPIG should be a better fit because you won't have the LDO regulators to drop the voltage therefore the efficiency should be better.


but nothing's going to blow up or smoke, right?

Any idea what this loss of efficiency would be and how that'd translate in brightness and/or runtime decrease?


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## daywalker (Aug 28, 2006)

Hi goldserve,
your PM box is full, i have a message for you waiting to be sent.


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## goldserve (Aug 28, 2006)

daywalker said:


> Hi goldserve,
> your PM box is full, i have a message for you waiting to be sent.



Cleared up. You could also try the send e-mail button =D


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## greenLED (Aug 28, 2006)

*Re: Discontinued FluPIG*



goldserve said:


>


/me wonders how much smaller that board can be made...


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## goldserve (Aug 28, 2006)

It can be if it had to be. The concern is how thin it can be made. If you've seen the small flupic board that goes in the Chimo's ARC-AAA mod or the same board that is going into modamag's creation...


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## marcdilnutt (Sep 30, 2006)

So, have i got this straight? I can use the FluPIG in conjunction with a Minipro to run a Lux 3 at full brightness (1A+) and with the functionality of the FluPIC from a single primary |CR123? If so may i please order one of these?
marc


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