# 1D Flashlight Kit by Maratac



## thermal guy (Apr 9, 2019)

So I have wanted a 1D light for awhile now and these finial became available again. Runs off of a1D or 4AA in a holder but think I remember reading somewhere that you can use just about anything up to 4.2 volts. 18650,16650 etc. anyone got one of these things and can add some insight? Thanks


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## fmc1 (Apr 9, 2019)

That looks like a light that I really want to add to my already too big collection. Thanks for the info. Now I’ll try to answer your question. 


A lot depends on what that 4xAA holder does with the 4 AA’s. There are only three possibilities, 4P, 4S or 2P 2S. Since the output is different using 1D or 4AA’s. I doubt it’s a 4P configuration because the voltage is the same 1.5V so the light would need some type of mechanism to detect the presence of the holder like a magnet, mechanical switch or whatever. So 4P won’t help you if you want to use an 18650, too much voltage. 2P 2S you might also have the same problem, even if you use 4 brand new lithium primaries. That would be about 3.6V in a 2P 2S configuration, depending on the driver voltage range, with an 18650 you might pop it or you might not. However I do believe you have the best shot with 2P 2S 3.6V vs. 4.2V is often within tolerance. If it’s 4S then for sure the driver won’t pop but who knows what the output will be, it’s ready for 7.2V but you are only giving it 4.2V.


Frank


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## thermal guy (Apr 9, 2019)

It has to be arranged in some sort of Series in the holster. As you can see with 4- AA it’s much brighter.so must be getting more voltage.but I’m dumb when it comes to this crap.


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## AVService (Apr 10, 2019)

I really like mine but have only run it on a D cell which is really the reason I got it too.
It is handy to have Eneloops or L91s loaded in the carrier and ready to go but I have only used it camping or from the car with a D like I said.


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## thermal guy (Apr 10, 2019)

Yes I got it specifically because it can use a single D cell and also 4-AA. Definitely Going in my GHB.


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## thermal guy (Apr 10, 2019)

I see they have a limited run of C cell models for sale now that can take a C cell or 4-AA.Is that a misprint? Can you fit 4-AA In a c body?


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## scout24 (Apr 10, 2019)

I wish these had something like a 5-10 lumen low mode.

It appears the "1C" version has a battery holder for four AAA cells.


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## thermal guy (Apr 10, 2019)

Ya I see that but is that right? Can 4-AA fit in a c/cell?


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## thermal guy (Apr 10, 2019)

I also just saw that disclaimer stated not to run high powered rechargeable batteries in it. So guess that answers my question. Was really just curious about that. Having the availability to run 1D or 4-AA is plenty good enough.


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## scout24 (Apr 10, 2019)

AA's are longer than AAA or C cells, so I'm thinking not.

The 1C is showing 1/2" shorter, and 3/10 of an inch smaller in diameter


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## thermal guy (Apr 10, 2019)

Oh ok I missed a post or two. Yep the picture shows AAA In the holder. So looks like the c takes 3 or 4 AAA not AA.


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## Tejasandre (Apr 10, 2019)

There’s a c cell kit out today


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## thermal guy (Apr 10, 2019)

Yep see post 6. My 1-D is being delivered as we speak. I'll let you all know what I think of it.


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## Tejasandre (Apr 10, 2019)

Whoops. I’ll let myself out.


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## xxo (Apr 10, 2019)

The C cell version looks like a nice form factor, though if I had one, I would probably just run it on a single AA Eneloop in a spacer rather than 4 AAA's or C's.


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## alpg88 (Apr 10, 2019)

i have build several short maglites that work with 1D cell. but i gave all of them away to friends and family. 

1D powered light is really not much different than 1AA as far as output, 1x 18650 light will be smaller , lighter, and much brighter than a light powered by alkaline D, sure you can use 2 or 4 AA cells, and have much brighter output, but so can 18650 light, while being much smaller and lighter.


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## thermal guy (Apr 10, 2019)

Initial impressions are that this is a dam good light.square threads on the tail end anodizing looks good and it has a solid feel to it.pretty dam bright on high with a D cell and very bright on high with 4-AA. I did measure 6.5 volts A crossed the battery carrier so they are in series I guess


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## AVService (Apr 10, 2019)

alpg88 said:


> i have build several short maglites that work with 1D cell. but i gave all of them away to friends and family.
> 
> 1D powered light is really not much different than 1AA as far as output, 1x 18650 light will be smaller , lighter, and much brighter than a light powered by alkaline D, sure you can use 2 or 4 AA cells, and have much brighter output, but so can 18650 light, while being much smaller and lighter.


Except for the D cell having a lot more runtime than a single AA in any mode.
This is the reason that I got mine.


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## Tesla (Apr 10, 2019)

+1 You nailed the reason for owning one--runtime.


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## alpg88 (Apr 10, 2019)

AVService said:


> Except for the D cell having a lot more runtime than a single AA in any mode.
> This is the reason that I got mine.



yea, it will, that is why i said "as far as output"


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## alpg88 (Apr 10, 2019)

i just read the description on web site, and it does not make sense.

they claim 


_*Using a single Duracell D Cell battery we got the following results:*_


Constant On,* Low mode*, 50 lumens output for up to 110 hours
Constant On, *High mode*, 570 lumens output for up to 6.5 Hours
these numbers do not make sense.


for xpl to emit 570lm it needs to be driven at over 1A. as per datasheet

for a driver to supply an xpl led with 1A at 3v it needs to pull over 2A from a cell. 

Duracell d cell has 10ah at 500ma draw, and it drops dramatically with more current, at 2A it will have less than a third of capacity. there is no way their numbers are true.

another thing is, i tried dozen or more different boost drivers with 1D cell, and none really puts out more than 700ma. some do put out an amp, but only few minutes from fresh cells


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## thermal guy (Apr 10, 2019)

Well I’ll tell you how long she will run on low. Started a test with mine a little while ago.


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## alpg88 (Apr 10, 2019)

xpl needs less than 100ma and about 2,6v for 50lm, meaning pulling about 200ma or less from a cell, at that draw d will have 12-15mah, capacity, it may just be very close to numbers listed, or even dead on. numbers add up

it is the high mode i have serious doubts about. those numbers do not add up. numbers would be close if you did not consider dramatic capacity drop vs current, for a alkaline D cell. and just recalculated based on low draw capacity.
in any case real world test should show if i'm right or wrong.


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## thermal guy (Apr 10, 2019)

alpg88 said:


> xpl needs less than 100ma and about 2,6v for 50lm, meaning pulling about 200ma or less from a cell, at that draw d will have 12-15mah, capacity, it may just be very close to numbers listed, or even dead on. numbers add up
> 
> but it is the high mode i have serious doubts about. those numbers do not ad up




Well then I’ll hold off on low and do high first. Don’t feel like waiting 100 hours anyway.


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## thermal guy (Apr 10, 2019)

One thing that might make the numbers work is output. I’m not setup to measure lumens but doing a Ceiling bounce test tells me it’s not as bright as my Malkoff’s. M61 new or old version. It’s plenty bright but I’d say 300-350 lumens. I may be wrong as I say I have no real way to check.


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## xxo (Apr 10, 2019)

alpg88 said:


> i just read the description on web site, and it does not make sense.
> 
> they claim
> 
> ...



Is there a step down?

If so that could explain it. Even if there is none, you should be able to get over 5 hrs running a 11000 mAh NiMH drawing 2 Amps:

https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Soshine D 11000mAh (White) UK.html


BTW I think the high modes on these are too high, they don't appear to be throwers so most of those lumens would be a waste to me....might even just put up a wall of light that I really don't like.


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## thermal guy (Apr 10, 2019)

It's not a big thrower no. It's ment to kinda be a flood/wall of light. But it does have some throw to it


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## thermal guy (Apr 10, 2019)

Well that’s 2 hours in and haven’t seen it step down yet. And as it gets darker here I’m going to say that it actually does have some good throw.

Edit::: 3 hours 35 minutes and it’s dimmer but not by much but still going strong.

4 hours 35 minutes dropped a little more still very bright

Ok. That’s 6 hours and 35 minutes and still going strong it ain’t 570 lumens but then again it’s very doubtful that it was to start with. My guess is it’s still very close to 75 lumens or so. Still lights up a 12X12 room nicely when shot at the ceiling.


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## Toohotruk (Apr 11, 2019)

I just ordered one...can't wait to check it out.


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## thermal guy (Apr 11, 2019)

Ended the test at 10 hours was still putting out plenty of light to see but when I switched it off to see what low looked like it was done and would not turn back on.battery was at .850 not a bad light at all imo.


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## thermal guy (Apr 11, 2019)

And the cool thing about alkaline batteries is there ability to “bounce back” had the D-cell out for 3 hours or so and it’s back up to 1.3 volts and it’s back in the light for I’m sure many more hours. This truly is a great emergency/survival light.im going to keep L91’s in the carrier.


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## xxo (Apr 11, 2019)

Sounds like a real nice light for emergencies.


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## thermal guy (Apr 11, 2019)

That’s exactly what it’s geared for. I should grab another one before they sell out.


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## Toohotruk (Apr 11, 2019)

I thought about getting the "C" one, and still might, but I figured the "D" version is a lot more versatile being able to run various "AA"s as well as the "D"s. The size would be the advantage with the "C" version.


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## thermal guy (Apr 11, 2019)

The C-cell is a lot smaller and can take AAA but it’s not as bright and more importantly at least to me is the C-cell doesn’t come close to the runtime you get with the D-cell.i think that’s this lights main function.but that C-cell does look cool as well.


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## LiftdT4R (Apr 11, 2019)

Just when I think my light collection is complete something like this comes along......

A 1D is awesome and such a rare form factor!

Whoever has one I'm guessing there is a boost driver in this? If so I'm guessing running a Li-Ion cell would kill it. Although I've used a single Li-Ion with a direct drive just fine so it might. I doubt any Li-Ion would fit anyway. A 26650 is much longer than a D cell. I don't know of a D sized Li-Ion.


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## thermal guy (Apr 12, 2019)

Well the battery carrier uses the 4 AA in series. I tested over 7 volts acrossed it when loaded with L91’s.


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## alpg88 (Apr 12, 2019)

xxo said:


> Is there a step down?
> 
> .



most likely boost\buck driver.


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## lampeDépêche (Apr 16, 2019)

If you want to keep it stored up in reserve, you probably don't want an alkaline battery in it.

Loading the 4xAA carrier with 4 L91s is a good solution. 

It's a little low on total capacity, though: each L91 is 3ah x 1.5v for about 4.5 watt-hours per cell, so 18 watt-hours for the whole assembly.
As opposed to (19ah x 1.5v) or about 28 watt-hours for a high-quality alkaline D-cell 

For more money, you could also try one of the lithium primary Cells, like the Saft LSH20.

With a capacity of 13 amp-hours and a voltage of 3.6v, that's about 47 watt-hours of energy content. Over twice the content of a set of L91s.

(The Xeno XL205F is less expensive, and claims 19 amp-hours for a whopping 68 watt-hours of energy, but I think it is more likely that they have exaggerated than that Saft is being modest. Saft is a very reputable brand.) 

One nice thing about this light is that the low-mode is the same whether you run it on a single D-cell or on the 4AA configuration. That means that its output on low is independent of the input voltage. And that, in turn, means that with a Lithium primary on low you would not get a brighter low, but instead a longer-lasting low.

And a 10-year shelf-life. And good performance down to -40 below.

Sigh. Hell. I am talking myself into wanting one of these.


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## alpg88 (Apr 16, 2019)

lampeDépêche said:


> It's a little low on total capacity, though: each L91 is 3ah x 1.5v for about 4.5 watt-hours per cell, so 18 watt-hours for the whole assembly.
> As opposed to (19ah x 1.5v) or about 28 watt-hours for a high-quality alkaline D-cell
> 
> .


19ah you only get under 200ma or less , at 600-700ma load D cell has about 7-8 ah.


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## lampeDépêche (Apr 16, 2019)

alpg88 said:


> 19ah you only get under 200ma or less , at 600-700ma load D cell has about 7-8 ah.



Correct. Alkaline cells are *very* sensitive to load, and deliver their full content only under light load. (Under heavy load, they waste a lot of their power to internal resistance.)

At higher currents (brighter outputs), the advantages of lithium primaries are much greater, since they deliver nearly the same total amp-hours independently of what the current-drain may be. (Because they have much lower internal resistance.) 

I did not mention all of that, because I was thinking about using the light in low-mode, where the current-draw will be low enough to get the full power out of an alkaline cell. 

Furthermore, on the high-mode, this light *does* change its output in response to changing input voltages. The lumen output with the 4AA configuration (6v) is significantly higher than with the 1D configuration. So I assume it would be somewhere between those outputs with a 1xLithium cell at 3.6v. Accordingly, some of the increase in overall energy-capacity would be directed to providing higher output when used on high mode. (As opposed to going to longer run-time when used on low mode.)

Though, come to think of it, Maratac's low of 50 lumens is really far too high for my taste. I like a *low* low, e.g 1 lumen or less.

Also, I am not fond of 6500k lights. I prefer color temps of 4500k or below these days.

Whew! What a relief! I have talked myself out of buying it after all!


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## thermal guy (Apr 16, 2019)

It’s a cool little light though 😁😁. Just saying


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## ChrisGarrett (Apr 16, 2019)

thermal guy said:


> So I have wanted a 1D light for awhile now and these finial became available again. Runs off of a1D or 4AA in a holder but think I remember reading somewhere that you can use just about anything up to 4.2 volts. 18650,16650 etc. anyone got one of these things and can add some insight? Thanks



Ehhh, I'm glad you're happy with it, but there are too many other, more capable lights out there to muck around with fatter 1D/1C lights. And for cheaper.

It's a novelty at best, IMO.

Chris


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## thermal guy (Apr 16, 2019)

Oh I wouldn’t call it a novelty. way over 100 hours off of a single D cell is a pretty decent light. D batteries are everywhere and easily scavenged. And it’s a real wide beam which is nice when bouncing off the ceiling.


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## alpg88 (Apr 16, 2019)

lampeDépêche said:


> Correct. Alkaline cells are *very* sensitive to load, and deliver their full content only under light load. (Under heavy load, they waste a lot of their power to internal resistance.)


yep pretty much, however 4 aa in parallel will handle load much better than 1D


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## lampeDépêche (Apr 16, 2019)

alpg88 said:


> yep pretty much, however 4 aa in parallel will handle load much better than 1D



True!

Except, the battery-holder that comes with this kit runs them 4s in series rather than 4p in parallel.

Check thermalguy's note at #37 that he got about 7 volts from 4 L91s. That tells you they are in series.

Of course, he was using lithiums, which is why he got 7 volts instead of 6volts. And the lithium primaries have less internal resistance.

But with 4 alkaline AAs in that holder, you will get higher voltage...and the same crappy alkaline resistance, choking down your current and using up your power.


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## thermal guy (Apr 16, 2019)

It’s still pretty efficient though.and the dual battery type is a pretty neat thing to have


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## lampeDépêche (May 17, 2019)

So I went ahead and bought one. 


It’s a good light. The brightness and beam shape are good. (I'm glad I got the 5000k instead of a 6500k.) It is fairly compact — not as much of a chunk in the hand as I had thought it would be. All of the advertised features are good — the 1/4”x20 threads for tripod duty, the ability to get a field-expedient rear instantaneous clicky by adjusting the threads just so. All of that is good.


And of course its ability to run D-cells or to run AA’s in a holder is the main plus.


Having said all of that, here are the ways that I would improve it.


1) It definitely needs a lower low. A light like this, and a cell like the D-cell, were made for long-run candle-lantern duty. Something on the order of 1 lumen or less. Personally, I am going to add in a resistor to produce that light level. But it would be better, and more efficient, if it were built into the circuit. You could get 1000 hours of useful light out of a Duracell D-cell running around 0.5 lumens — and that’s a hell of a nice feature.


2) the cell compartment should have more shock-proofing to protect the circuit-board when the D-cell gets slammed around. Imitate the Gerber Infinity Ultra. That has springs on both ends of the AA cell. And in addition, at the positive end it has a silicon donut about 1/8” thick that provides terrific shock protection for the circuit board. So, revisions to the Maratac should include a thick silicon or foam bumper between the circuit-board and the D-cell. And the positive terminal should have a spring on it. This might require lengthening the body of the light by 1/8” or so — maybe even 1/4” for lots of padding — but it would make the light *far*, *far* more robust. Given how it is built now, the body is not going to get damaged by rough use. The cell will not get damaged. But the circuit-board *will* get damaged, by the mass of the D-cell slamming into it. 


3) Also: as currently designed, this light is leaving a lot of value on the table by not being easily and instantly compatible with a single C-cell or a single AA-cell. D-cells are 60mm in length, and C-cells and AA-cells are 50mm in length. You only need to accommodate an extra 10mm of length between your two springs, and the rear spring already does about 5-7mm of that. If you add in a spring on the positive terminal, plus 1/4” of foam on the positive end, then it will be easy to drop in a C-cell or AA-cell and operate the light just as though it had a D-cell in it. The foam will act to center the positive end of the shorter cell and keep it from sliding off of the positive-end spring.


Can you run a C-cell or single AA-cell in the light now? Sure, but only with adaptors and extensions and space-fillers of different kinds. It’s a hassle. And it should *not* be a hassle. It should be as easy as dropping a AAA into a AA Zebralight (or into the Gerber IU): you just drop in the shorter cell, twist down the threads, and it runs automatically, without any fiddling or fidgeting. 


It would be trivially easy to change the Maratac 1D to give it this extra capability, and it would be totally in line with its mission. This light *wants* to be an omnivore! We already know that it can handle voltages from 1.5v up to 6.0v. So, if it could easily handle the AA-format, then it could also eat 14500s and 17500s as well. This is a lot of functionality that could be added, by some small changes to the interior of the battery compartment — adding a positive spring and a foam donut — and they would all support each other. 


4) speaking of the circuit board and positive terminal: It looks as though the *only* heat-sinking that the emitter gets is from the contact between the positive terminal on the back of the circuit-board, and the positive button on the D-cell. Now, that’s not terrible, because this light never draws that much wattage, so that heat-sinking is not a crucial feature. But the lack of a positive pathway for drawing heat away from the emitter is a small defect in the circuit board.

So: I like it. But I will like it even better when they revise it with springs on both ends of the cell and padding between the cell and the circuit-board. Then it will be much, much tougher and more damage resistant, and it will be closer to a true omnivore light. That, and a genuine low-low will make it a perfect bug-out light.


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## thermal guy (May 17, 2019)

Yep I agree that a lower low would be awesome. And yes if it could use a c cell that would be nice. I’m guessing a a d to a adapter would work. Got to go check that out


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## lampeDépêche (May 17, 2019)

thermal guy said:


> ....I’m guessing a a d to a adapter would work....



Oh, no doubt the adaptor will work. But the thing is: you should not *need* to use an adaptor. A well-designed battery compartment, with springs on both ends and shock-absorbing foam on the positive end, should make it possible to drop a bare cell in there and have it fire up and not move around too much.

And it would have the other function, of making the whole unit far more shock-resistant.

One of the first serious lights that I purchased, several decades ago, was a Surefire M3. Beautiful light. And it was thoroughly shock-resistant, with not only the battery-compartment protected by springs, but even the front reflector-and-bulb unit shielded by foam. It was meant to be used as a weapon-light, with all of the repeated pounding from recoil that this entails. So it was *really* nicely shock-isolated.

That's the kind of system I want for the Maratac.


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## alpg88 (May 17, 2019)

lampeDépêche said:


> Oh, no doubt the adaptor will work. But the thing is: you should not *need* to use an adaptor. A well-designed battery compartment, with springs on both ends and shock-absorbing foam on the positive end, should make it possible to drop a bare cell in there and have it fire up and not move around too much.
> 
> And it would have the other function, of making the whole unit far more shock-resistant.
> 
> ...



what you pay is what you get. you can't have lexus quality for Honda price


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## thermal guy (May 17, 2019)

lampeDépêche said:


> Oh, no doubt the adaptor will work. But the thing is: you should not *need* to use an adaptor. A well-designed battery compartment, with springs on both ends and shock-absorbing foam on the positive end, should make it possible to drop a bare cell in there and have it fire up and not move around too much.
> 
> And it would have the other function, of making the whole unit far more shock-resistant.
> 
> ...



Well that would work for length but no way is a spring on each end going to make a AA Stand up straight and not tilt losing contact. You have to use some sort of adapter.one made out of pvc would be easy and would allow AAA or AA Cells to work.


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## thermal guy (May 17, 2019)

Lumintop SD10 That’s what I was looking for


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## lampeDépêche (May 17, 2019)

alpg88 said:


> what you pay is what you get. you can't have lexus quality for Honda price



Well, these are far from cheap. $45 is pretty steep for a simple, single-emitter light with no bells or whistles of any kind (no programmable modes or infinite adjusting ring or zooming lens or whatever).

And I'm not asking for it to be a fancy light: I am trying to push it towards being a D-cell Fenix E01, a simple light that focuses on robustness and flexibility of fuel-source.


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## thermal guy (May 17, 2019)

I guess what they could do is make the tube a little longer to fit 16650/18650 then put a spring on positive end and then make the ID adjustable to fit anything from a AAA to a D cell.it could be done but not for 45 bucks. Be more like 80. Then you have a very Niche light that is pretty expensive. Right now it’s a nice light with long runtimes pretty dam bright and can run off of AA or D cells. All for 45 bucks which is pretty cheap nowadays


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## Lynx_Arc (May 17, 2019)

lampeDépêche said:


> Well, these are far from cheap. $45 is pretty steep for a simple, single-emitter light with no bells or whistles of any kind (no programmable modes or infinite adjusting ring or zooming lens or whatever).
> 
> And I'm not asking for it to be a fancy light: I am trying to push it towards being a D-cell Fenix E01, a simple light that focuses on robustness and flexibility of fuel-source.


I agree these aren't cheap..... you can get a D cell LED light for about $3 at walmart and buy parallel 3AA to D adapters and buy another light for higher output with a diffuser (18650) and still end up cheaper.
Spending a lot of money just to run off a single D cell when 18650 is far superior is a waste IMO.


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## thermal guy (May 17, 2019)

Pretty sure the build quality of this thing is a little better then a 3 dollar led light🤔
It’s a solid little light. But yes not for all.


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## alpg88 (May 18, 2019)

lampeDépêche said:


> Well, these are far from cheap. $45 is pretty steep for a simple, single-emitter light with no bells or whistles of any kind (no programmable modes or infinite adjusting ring or zooming lens or whatever).
> 
> And I'm not asking for it to be a fancy light: I am trying to push it towards being a D-cell Fenix E01, a simple light that focuses on robustness and flexibility of fuel-source.


still does not compare to $300-400 surfire.


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## thermal guy (May 18, 2019)

Yes figuratively speaking 45 bucks is cheap for a decent light.


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## lumen aeternum (Dec 12, 2019)

lampeDépêche said:


> Correct. Alkaline cells are *very* sensitive to load, and deliver their full content only under light load. (Under heavy load, they waste a lot of their power to internal resistance.)


speaking of which -- anyone have a chart showing this?


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## Poppy (Dec 12, 2019)

Our friend HKJ often posts in the batteries section 
Here is his root site
https://lygte-info.dk/

And here are graphs for a Panasonic D cell 

https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Panasonic%20Pro%20Power%20D%20UK.html


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## flatline (Apr 8, 2020)

I noticed that the 1C was 50% off and the 1D was, well, on sale, but not quite 50% off...so I bought both of them.

They're heavy for their size and built super solid. The threads came lubed, but it's still a two handed job to turn the lights on or off. There's no detectable PWM in the low mode and the beam is a nice compromise between flood and throw. They tail stand better than any other light I've tried (combination of width and weight) and the tailcap has flat spots that provide decent anti-roll capability.

They are both way too chunky to be EDC lights, but should work well as a house light or part of an emergency kit. The 4-cell carriers for AAA and AA cells seems well made and I verified that the lights work fine with them, but I put them away since I already have plenty of lights that use AAA or AA cells. These new lights are for C and D cells!

I do not have a tripod to connect to these lights, but now I'm tempted to pick one up. Maybe one of those little ones with the three bendy legs so I can aim the lights at whatever angle I want...

Between the two of them, the 1C is the better deal. It's way more comfortable in hand, lighter, fits in a pocket, and still has enough extra capacity over an AA light to be worth dealing with the extra size. But I'm glad I got both.

--flatline


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## Toohotruk (Apr 9, 2020)

Hmm...maybe I'll pick up a C to go with my D.


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## thermal guy (Apr 15, 2020)

My D cell is in my GTB in my vehicle along with my walking stick. I put a threaded stud on the end of my stick so if need be I could screw the light right on the end of it. Kinda lame looking with that big light on the stick but would come in real handy if I had to huff it home. Plus it makes me feel like Gandolf😁


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## LiftdT4R (Apr 15, 2020)

Where did you find them 50% off? The only site that seems to have them is County Comm and they are still $44.50. I've wanted a 1C and 1D forever but I just can't see spending $45 on a 1C or 1D that I won't use often. They both look like awesome lights!!


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## thermal guy (Apr 15, 2020)

Wondering that myself. Wouldn’t mind a 1-C. I see next to the price it says save $23 dollars which is half the price. Maybe that’s what he’s seeing. Think that’s just off the retail price. Idk


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## flatline (Apr 16, 2020)

The 1C at County Comm was 50% when I bought it. The 1D was also for sale, but not by as much.

Might have just been a special deal that lasted a couple of days. I found out about it because County Comm sent me an email about the sale.

I really like both lights, but I do have trouble recommending them simply because of the price. Right now, they're a boutique item for folks who are willing to spend the money for a niche item.

--flatline


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## chillinn (Oct 18, 2020)

I think these single C & D lights are very tempting for all the reasons mentioned. 

No one has mentioned, but there are such things as C and D sized LSD NiMH cells, such as Accupower Acculoop. They won't produce the same capacities as Alkaline, but they also won't leak and destroy the light. Though they're not exactly cheap, how many would be needed to support the light? Even with reduced runtimes, could probably get away with having just 1 or 2 NiMH secondaries.

Has anyone considered swapping the limited 2 mode driver for something with a more acceptable low, and perhaps giving up the 4 cell higher brightnesses? Or maybe not give anything up... fitting a driver in such as that from a Tool AA could allow both battery configurations. Even just an emitter swap to something High CRI and a lower temperature, say 2000K, would somewhat restrict the brightness.


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## Swedpat (Oct 19, 2020)

Maratac 1C and 1D: do I need these? No. Do I want them? Yes... These remind of common 4AA and single 26650 lights. I like the stable tailstanding of this design. At low mode they can be used many hours for extra indoors lighting, or for camping.


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## chillinn (Oct 19, 2020)

Can those that already have the 1D Maratac please confirm whether there is any PWM? The first gen 2 mode AA Maratacs used PWM in the low mode, and I believe even the current gen AA Maratacs still utilize PWM. I am concerned the same might be true with the 1D. I do not care if it can be seen or not, I'd like to know if PWM is actually there, so the smart phone camera test is probably the easiest way to see if it can't be seen just waving it around. I appreciate any taking the time to find out.


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## flatline (Oct 19, 2020)

I can't detect any PWM on either the 1C or 1D that I have. My phone camera shows no weirdness and I've never seen it in use (I'm normally pretty sensitive to PWM).

--flatline


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## thermal guy (Oct 19, 2020)

Don’t see any in my 1D. But then again I blink A LOT!


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## chillinn (Oct 19, 2020)

You guys are awesome. Thank you, that is good news, and good enough for me.


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## Lynx_Arc (Oct 19, 2020)

thermal guy said:


> Don’t see any in my 1D. But then again I blink A LOT!


I got you beat..... I squint more than you blink.


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## thermal guy (Oct 19, 2020)

👍🏻 Sucks getting old.


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## Lynx_Arc (Oct 19, 2020)

thermal guy said:


> 👍🏻 Sucks getting old.


could be worse and not make it that far......


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## chillinn (Oct 19, 2020)

Lynx_Arc said:


> thermal guy said:
> 
> 
> > 👍🏻 Sucks getting old.
> ...



And if you don't, you'd regret it to your dying day... if ever you live so long.


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## Lynx_Arc (Oct 19, 2020)

chillinn said:


> And if you don't, you'd regret it to your dying day... if ever you live so long.



yup..... and all those new flashlights I would miss......


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## wayben (Oct 19, 2020)

thermal guy said:


>  Sucks getting old.



Beats the alternative!!


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## thermal guy (Oct 19, 2020)

When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep - not screaming, like the passengers in his car😁

Sry couldn’t stop myself


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## chillinn (Nov 5, 2020)

I have a slight problem. Ordered the D1 Maratac, should be in today. Ordered a couple Acculoop D cells for it, and they just arrived. I did not realize they do not fit in my NiteCore D4 Digicharger. 

What charger is recommended for charging D size NiMH? Only have the two cells, so a 1 or 2 bay charger would be ideal. Thanks.

Forgot about the Olight UC charger, perfect size and price. Depends on charging current being high enough. 500mA charge current for NiMH is kind of slow for such a large cap cell. But I can just time the charge rather than wait for termination that it may miss.

Edit: says it charges C cells but doesn't list D cells. I just bought one. 10 bucks, I'm sure it will be fine. 

But what are you guys using? Alkaline? I guess I can get a couple of those and just never leave them in the light.


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## Lynx_Arc (Nov 5, 2020)

chillinn said:


> I have a slight problem. Ordered the D1 Maratac, should be in today. Ordered a couple Acculoop D cells for it, and they just arrived. I did not realize they do not fit in my NiteCore D4 Digicharger.
> 
> What charger is recommended for charging D size NiMH? Only have the two cells, so a 1 or 2 bay charger would be ideal. Thanks.
> 
> ...



Some people have made charging cradle adapters for C/D cells and used AA based chargers but you may have to do several cycles of charging if the charger times out after a certain amount of mah and even at that the charge will be slow as these batteries can have 4 to even 10 Ah and a AA charger may do 2Ah many only 1Ah if even that. The charging adapters are essentially a 1 cell holder and wires/clips to attach to the charger itself (external design).


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## chillinn (Nov 5, 2020)

Thanks. I am going to try to work the Olight UC charger. It is ideal in one way, and really cheap, but not ideal on the current. But I only have 2 cells, so I'll only have to watch the charging of 1D at a time. If it doesn't work, I'll still have use for that charger.


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## thermal guy (Nov 5, 2020)

I keep mine in my GHB in the van so I keep L91’s in it.


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## chillinn (Nov 5, 2020)

I think that use with a D cell, it wants a sleeve... battery is too loose and bangs around. 

1D Maratac is surprisingly a pretty decent thrower.


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## chillinn (Nov 12, 2020)

chillinn said:


> I think that use with a D cell, it wants a sleeve... battery is too loose and bangs around.



A sleeve is essential for these lights. Cell bangs around and damage to the cell will accumulate. Who can make some Delrin battery sleeves? Suggestions? Should I get some signatures together and write County Comm to create and sell them? If you're using AA/AAA, plz ignore.


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## thermal guy (Nov 12, 2020)

Don’t think I get any battery rattle when I use a D cell.


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## chillinn (Nov 12, 2020)

I get considerable rattle with one cell in both the 1D and 1C versions. Just shaking the light a little bangs the cell against the walls of the battery tube. I suppose if you are super gentle and never submit the lights to any G forces, the cell may remain centered and never touch the walls, but I have light friction damage to one of my new cells already, and I haven't dropped the light or anything. If carried in a cargo pocket on the thigh, you'll hear and feel the rattle (wrong word, better word is "banging") just walking at a normal pace.


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## thermal guy (Nov 12, 2020)

I see. Ok


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