# 2xAA Round-up Review: Fenix, Nitecore, Olight, ITP, Eagletac, Jetbeam, Mag ...



## selfbuilt

_*REVIEWER'S NOTE:* This is my first round-up review of 2xAA lights, similar in format to my Multi-stage 1AA - Part IV and 1xCR123A/RCR round-ups. In addition to the beamshot, output, throw, and runtime comparisons, scroll down for a detailed description of each light. _ 

_For a discussion of the color rendition properties of different emitters and tint bins, please see my comparison thread: Color Rendition and Tint Comparison: Cree, Rebel, GDP, Nichia_

*Warning: this post is pic and text heavy!*

_*UPDATE 11/1/09:* Added EagleTac P20A2, LiteFlux LF3XT-2AA, 4Sevens Quark AA-2 to the graphs/tables/beamshots_
_*UPDATE 6/10/09:* Added Olight I25 to the graphs/tables/beamshots._
_*UPDATE 4/8/09:* Added EagleTac P100A2, Lumapower Connexion X2 2xAA extension, and Romisen RC-N3 II._
_*UPDATE 1/7/09:* Added L91 Lithium runtimes._
_*UPDATE 12/18/08:* Added Olight T25-T (Tactical) to the round-up._

*The contenders*:







From left to right: Duracell 1AA battery, Fenix L2D, Fenix E20, Fenix TK20, Olight T25, ITP C8T, JetBeam Jet-I PRO EX V2.0, Nitecore D20, Minimag incan, Lumapower Connexion X2 2xAA, Eagletac P100A2, Eagletac P10A2, and Romisen RC-N3 II. Not shown are the Fenix L2T V2.0, LD20, Olight T25-T or I25.

*Testing Method:* All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for the extended run Lo/Min modes which are done without cooling.

Throw values are the square-root of lux measurements taken at 1 meter from the lens, using a light meter.

*Beamshots:*

All up-close beamshots are at ~0.5 meter from a white wall, to show you the different overall patterns. 

On Max/Turbo/100% with 2x Sanyo Eneloop 2000mAh NiMH 
































































Note: although not shown, the Olight I25 has the same reflector and beam pattern as the Olight T25 and ITP C8 above.

As you can see, the Fenix TK20 has a much warmer tint (likely "neutral" Cree 5A tint bin). The other lights are all standard cool white tints. The Olight T25-T is not shown, but looks identical to the regular T25 (same build).

*A comment on these beamshots:* Obviously, white-wall beamshots at close range don't tell you much about a light's performance in the real world. _But it does let you quickly compare the beam profiles of a large number of lights at a glance._ If you are familiar with any of the lights shown above, then you can quickly see how the other lights are likely to stack up against it. And that is the point here - it would be great to have outdoor pics for each light, in different environments, at multiple distances in each environment, and with different exposures to show beam vs spill for each distance, etc., etc. ... but I won't be doing them. 

*Weights (without battery):*

Fenix L2D: 56.5g
Fenix TK20: 153.9g
Olight I25: 87.9g
Olight T25: 87.6g
Olight T25-T: 88.5g
ITP C8T: 97.1g
JetBeam Jet-I PRO EX V2.0: 68.8g
Nitecore D20: 109.3g
Minimag incan: 60.4g
Minimag LED: 72.0g
Eagletac P10A2: 96.2g

*Output/Throw Summary Chart*






As you can see, some lights are capable of much lower minimum outputs than others. There is also a lot different in throw (i.e. how focused the light is for centre beam. Scroll down for runtime comparisons.

*Ramping Comparison:*






For the lights that have a continuously-variable interface, I have presented their ramping sequences above. The JetBeam Jet-I PRO EX V2 has a longer ramp than the Nitecore D20 (or D10, shown for reference) and ITP C8.

*Runtime Comparison* 

*A comment on these graphs: It should go without saying, but there is a lot more to a light's performance than its runtime!* I've tried to give some context for each light's overall performance and value in the detailed discussions at the end of the review. The purpose of these graphs is to simply let you quickly compare output/runtime at a glance. 

Note also that a number of these lights can go to lower outputs than the mid-range levels presented below. But I don't do runtimes on low levels on NiMH due to the risk of damaging the cells from over-discharge (i.e. I can't estimate termination time to stop the run before complete discharge - and potential damage - occurs to the cells).

_*On 2x Sanyo Eneloop NiMH (~2000mAh capacity)*_
















_*On 2x Duracell alkaline (standard)*_






_*UPDATE: On 2x Energizer L91 Lithium*_






*Runtime Observations*

Fenix L2D/LD20: The LD20 is the new version of the Fenix L2D, but with little change to the circuit - although it does seem to have a lower Low mode now (see Summary Table). Runtime performance was generally comparable, except for Turbo output which had lower runtime on my LD20 sample. Fenix is generally recognized as the output/runtime efficiency king among AA-class lights.
Fenix E20 is a single mode light, about the level of a L2D on Hi (not Turbo). Unfortunately, I forgot to do NiMH runtimes before selling this light, but regulation on alkalines is impressive. 
Fenix TK20 is a 2-stage light with warm "neutral" Cree tint bin (likely Q2-5A). Runtimes are as expected for a Q2 light. Note that this is the best thrower in the collection, due to its larger head/reflector. 
The continuously-variable NiteCore D20 and ITP C8 (Regular and Tactical) have similar runtime performance, although the D20 is capable of slightly greater max output.
The continuously-variable JetBeam Jet-I PRO EX V2 has slightly lower output/runtime efficiency than the D20/C8, but has greater throw. 
The Olight T25 has similar overall output/runtime efficiency as Fenix L2D, with an extra intermediate output level and different interface - although max output is not as high as the L2D.
The Olight T25-T (Tactical) version is driven to higher level than the regular T25, and only has 3 regular output levels (basically, levels 1,3, and 5 of the regular version, with the highest level a bit brighter). Output/runtime efficiency is the same.
The Olight I25 is new for 2009, and features an upgraded build of the T25-T with a tweaked ITP C8 circuit and UI.
The Eagletac P10A2 is the current max output king (consistent with other Eagletac lights, all of which are heavily-driven on max). Lo mode is about the same level as Fenix Med, with similar runtime.
The Minimag incandescent is included for your reference. 
The Eagletac P100A2 Hi/Lo is actually fairly close in output and runtime to the Fenix L2D-Q5 on Turbo/Med
The Romisen RC-N3 II (two-stage version Q5) has slightly lower outputs than most of the other lights shown here. Output/runtime efficiency is very good on Hi, and a bit lower than the competition on Lo.
The Lumapower Connexion X2 2xAA is actually a battery extension tube for the 1xAA X2. Outputs are the same as the 1xAA version, and thus lower than most of the dedicated 2xAA lights. Output/runtime efficiency is typically excellent.

*Light Summaries:*






_*Eagletac P100A2 (XP-E Q5)*_

The P100A2 is new entry-level model from Eagletac, featuring the smaller Cree XP-E emitter (output remains comparable to the standard Cree XR-E Q5).
Interface remains the same as other P10 series lights - twist the head tightly for Hi, loosen slightly for Lo.
Output levels are similar to the Fenix L2D on Turbo/Med - with equivalent runtime (apparently current-controlled).
Beam pattern is quite good on these new XP-Es - it is actually one of the further-throwing 2xAA lights I've seen.  Note that it is common for the emitters to come slightly off-center on these P100A2s. It does not generally seem to affect the beam much.
Light features more aggresive knurling than typical, providing enhanced grip
Feautres a protruding tailcap (forward clicky), so tailstanding is not possible. Tailcap threads are anodized, so lock-out is available.
Overall, I am quite impressed with the build for the price - but note that it comes with no accessories (i.e. no holster, wrist lanyard, or clip). Finish can have a few anodizing chips (likely due to bouncing up against other lights during processing).
A good competitor for the Fenix L2T V2.0 (Cree Q2). Basically, if you want a lower Lo mode and smooth finish go with the L2T, if you want a higher Lo mode and more aggresive knurling go with P100A2.
P100A2 was purchased from eagletac-store.com. Currently availble for ~$40






*Eagletac P10A2 (Q5):*

Eagletac lights use a basic 2-stage output system, controlled by a twist of the head (similar to the Fenix LxT design).
Like Fenix, Eagletac appears to use a current-controlled low mode (i.e. no PWM). This produces very good runtime for its output level. Unfortunately the Lo mode is still extremely bright on the P10A2 (about the same as Fenix L2D Med). I would consider the two states of the P10A2 to be Regular and Turbo, instead of Lo and Hi.
Output is extremely high on the Turbo mode, currently the brightest 2xAA in my collection. oo:
Reflector design on P10C is excellent, with a deep textured reflector that produces a lot throw with little evidence of Cree rings. The lens has an anti-reflective coating that seems to add a slight green-tint to the beam (see my detailed Eagletac P10C review for some beamshots).
Light uses a forward clicky switch that is recessed enough to still allow tailstanding. 
Light has anodized tailcap threads, allowing for lock-out.
Comes with a bezel-up clip, although I understand a bi-directional one is in development and should be available soon.
Overall build quality is very high, with a lot of signs of care and consideration in the design.
Bottom line, I expect this light to become the standard "tactical" 2AA model for most users - due to its strong build features and incredibly bright output. 
My sample was purchased from eagletac-store.com (4sevens). Light retails for ~$55.






*Fenix L2D/LD20 (Q5):*

The Fenix LD20 (not shown) is a revised body version of the classic L2D. Circuit design is basically the same, although the LD20 is now capable of a lower Lo output. 
The original L2D (with textured reflector) was an excellent all-around performer - decent throw, decent beam, and excellent runtime. My LD20 sample has slightly better throw, but a ringier beam. Runtime performance is typically identical (although my sample LD20 has lower runtime on Turbo, likely due to random Vf differences between Q5 emitters). 
Fenix remains the output/runtime king on primary batteries - nothing else beats the efficiency of the Fenix's current-controlled Med/Lo modes. :thumbsup: 
Light comes with a reverse clicky and allows tailstanding on both versions. A protruding forward clicky is available, but this is better suited to the simpler two-mode LxT or single-mode E20 series lights (see below).
User interface is excellent on the Fenix lights, IMO. Twist the bezel to switch between Min and Turbo output modes. In Min mode, soft-press the clicky to access Med-Hi-SOS. In Turbo, soft-press to access Strobe.
Build quality is very good. Fit and finish is very nice, although some find the Fenix L2D/L2T bodies a bit slippery. The LD20 body has knurling and extra ridges to enhance grip.
Fenix pouches are also well made, although I find the new LD20 pouch is bit over-built and bulky.
Early model L2Ds don't have reverse-polarity protection, but this feature was added to the L2D line shortly before the switch to the LD20 body design.
See my  Fenix L2D Q5 vs R100, R80, Q2, P4 Comparison Review: RUNTIMES+ for an analysis of the premium Cree Q5 and Rebel R100 heads on L2D form.
Simply put, the L2D/LD20 is the standard to which all other 2AA lights are compared. 
Fenix L2D and LD20 were purchased from fenixtactical.ca. Currently, the L2D/LD20 retail ~$55-60.






*Fenix L2T V2.0 (Rebel 080 or Cree Q2):*

I haven't done a full runtime comparison review of the L2T V2.0, since I only have the Rebel version (now discontinued). AFAIK, build is identical between the Cree and Rebel models, and is equivalent to the L2D (parts interchangeable).
The L2T series represents a simpler circuit/interface - basically, just two output states (Hi and Lo) accessible from a twist of the head. 
The original L2T was a Luxeon III light, and the new L2T V2.0 keeps the same interface in a new body with a revised circuit and new emitters. L2T V2.0 lights are interchangeable with L2D body parts - they are not compatible with original L2T body parts.
As expected, max output of either L2T V2.0 version is a bit lower than the premium Cree Q5 L2D/LD20.
The currently-available Cree Q2 version of the L2T V2.0 has a lower Lo mode than earlier versions of this light.
Light comes shipped with a protruding forward clicky (shown above), but the standard L2D reverse clicky also fits. Either version works well in this light, since output modes are controlled solely by the head twist.
See my  Fenix L2D Q5 vs R100, R80, Q2, P4 Comparison Review: RUNTIMES+ for an analysis of the premium Rebel 080 version versus the L2D form.
Simply put, this light is a great choice as a "budget" or simplified version of the L2D. Highly recommended as gifts for non-flashaholics, or for those that prefer a simpler interface. :thumbsup:
You might also want to consider the Eagletac P100A2, if you prefer a higher output on Lo and agressive knurling.
Fenix L2T V2.0 was purchased from 4sevens.com. Currently, the L2T V2.0 retails ~$45.






*Fenix E20 (Q2):*

The E20 is a single-stage 2AA light with a wider head and reflector that is focusable. It is thus more appropriately a competitor to a LED-upgraded Minimag light.
Construction of the E20 is relatively simple compared to the higher-end L2D/LD20/L2T Fenix lights. The knurling is more aggressive on the E20, but overall build quality and "hand-feel" seems lower to me. 
The E20 comes with a focusable smooth reflector that is wider and deeper than typical Fenix 2AA lights.
I forgot to do a NiMH runtime before selling this light , but output is roughly equivalent to a L2D on Hi (not Turbo). Regulation on alkalines is impressively flat. 
Light comes shipped with a protruding forward clicky, like the L2T V2.0.
Like all Fenix 2AA lights, the E20 comes with anodized tailcap threads, so tailcap lock-out is possible. 
Like the newer L2D and LD20 lights, the E20 also comes with reverse polarity protection in case you accidentally put the batteries in wrong.
The focusable feature works quite well - for sample beam pics, please see my Fenix E20 review.
Bottom line, a good replacement for a Minimag light. But unless you really need the focusable beam feature, I think most would be better served with the L2T V2.0, which has an excellent low mode and better overall build quality (IMO). 
Fenix E20 was purchased from 4sevens.com. Currently, the E20 retails ~$35.






*Fenix TK20 (Cree Q2, "neutral" 5A tint):*

The "T" series lights by Fenix are designed to be heavy-duty Tactical lights. The TK20 is the first T-series light to run on standard AA batteries.
First thing to notice is the beam - Fenix uses a "neutral" tint Cree emitter (likely 5A), which is a lot warmer than the standard "cool" tint LEDs we are all used to. The pic below shows you an outdoor comparison of the L2D and TK20, with my camera locked on daylight light balance.




Throw is the highest of any Fenix 2AA light, due to the larger head and deeper reflector.
As expected, build quality is very vigorous on the TK20. This has to be the thickest-walled battery tube I've seen yet! 
The TK20 uses a similar mechanism to the other T-series lights and the L2T - basically, just two output states (Hi and Lo) accessible from a twist of the head. 
Max output of either TK20 is a bit less than the L2D Q5, due to the Q2 Cree emitter. Output/runtime efficiency remains at Fenix's high standard.
Consistent with its tactical focus, the TK20 comes with a forward clicky that is easily access due to the scalloped tailcap ridges (which still allow tailstanding).
The TK20 comes with a removable bezel-up clip held by two torx screws (allen key provided) and the choice of yellow or gray rubber body grip. Note the grip had a tendency to slip and slide around the battery tube on the first generation of TK20
Tailcap lock-out is available thanks to the anodized threads.
A very impressive light, particularly for its warm-tinted emitter and larger reflector. Personally, I think it's a little heavy - something closer in thickness and weight to the Olight T25 or Eagletac P10A2 is more to my liking for a "tactical" light - but each his/her own. :tinfoil:
Fenix TK20 was purchased from 4sevens.com. Currently, the TK20 retails ~$60.






_*ITP C8 (Q5):*_

ITP lights are continuously-variable, with an innovative loosen of the head to activate the ramp, tighten to save the setting (no switching required). This is probably the most intuitive continuously-variable interface I've seen yet. :twothumbs
Lights use PWM to produce low modes, at an undetectable frequency. 
Beam pattern is identical to early Olights, since ITP use the same two-stage reflector (i.e. textured at the base to reduce rings, smooth along the top half).
Runtime efficiency and regulation is quite good, typically on par with Nitecore's continuously-variable mechanism.
Light comes in both Regular and Tactical versions. Tactical includes a protruding forward clicky and lacks the SOS/strobe of the Regular version (which is accessed by repeatedly soft-pressing the Regular's standard reverse clicky). 
Build quality is quite good, I would say generally on par with the early Olights and Fenixes.
The head unit is interchangeable with 1xAA and 1xCR123A/RCR body tubes, sold separately (ITP C7 and C9 versions). This allows you to play "lego" with the various body/battery tubes and heads.
Please see my ITP C8 Review for more info, and links to other ITP model reviews.
Bottom line, ITP has probably the simplest and most intuitive continuously-variable interface I've seen yet. :thumbsup: Very competitive for the price. 
Lights were provided by ITP for review. Now available from their US dealer shiningbeam.com for ~$45.






*JetBeam Jet-I PRO EX V2 (Q5):*

JetBeam was the first to release a continuously-variable 2AA light, using their IBS (Infinite Brightness System) circuit. 
All JetBeam IBS lights use PWM, but the frequency is high enough that I can't detect it by eye or instrument. 
The Jet-I PRO EX series is designed for throw, and these are good throwers even with the stock textured reflector (although some of the newer 2AA lights can throw further). 
Maximum output is middle-of-the-pack for current 2AA Cree Q5 lights, but output/runtime efficiency is definitely less than the newer continuously-variable lights (Nitecore D20, ITP C8).
Low output is nice and low with this circuit - second only to the Nitecore D20 among all the 2AA lights.
Light uses a reverse clicky and can tailstand (although a bit wobbly). Clicky feel has improved from the earlier Jet-I series lights (i.e. less "stiff").
User Interface is quite good - the IBS circuit allows you to set three defined output states (A, B, C) through a continuously-variable brightness mechanism. Pre-sets are available at 5%, "default low", 50%, "default hi", and 100%. A number of strobe and SOS modes are also available, but you don't need to see them if you don't want to. See my detailed Jet-I PRO EX V2 for more info.
Build quality is generally excellent. Although there is an anodizing mismatch from the head to body on my sample (common for natural type III hard anodizing) and lettering is not always perfectly clear (can be faded in places)
Tailcap threads are anodized, allowing for tailcap lock-out. 
Kudos to the JetBeam for introducing the first continuously-variable 2AA light. The 3 set-able states of the IBS circuit are a bonus, but you may want to look at the more recent competition if runtime is your key concern.
Light was supplied by JetBeam for review. Current retails for ~$65.






*Lumapower Connexion X2 2xAA Extension (Q5)*

Lumapower has just come out with a 2xAA extension tube for the 1xAA Connexion X2 (part of Lumapower's EDC line of KISS lights). The tube smoothly fits between the head and 1xAA body tube/tailcap.
The light has 3 output levels, controlled by a recessed forward clicky switch. No strobe/SOS modes included. Memory mode is activated if you leave the light on for more than 1 sec in any given mode.
Light is current-controlled, and thus has good output/runtime efficiency - although output modes are unchanged from the 1xAA version (i.e. typically lower than the dedicated 2xAA lights reviewed here)
Low mode level is quite low for a current-controlled light, but now as low as some of the PWM-based continuously-variable lights. But it is one of the most efficient lights at its Lo level.
Build quality has improved from earlier model EDC lights, and now features an accessible tailcap clicky with removable clip, type III hard anodizing, and other updates. Light is one of the smallest 2xAA lights available.
Very smooth beam, with wider than typical spillbeam (both due to the relatively shallow reflector). The head portion with reflector can be adjusted somewhat for focus.
Note that a new TurboHead for greater throw is available (see my review for more info).
Light can tailstand, although head/body lock-out is not possible.
Light was received from Lumapower for review. Current retail price of the 2xAA extension tube is not known (but the 1xAA model sells for ~$50).






* NiteCore D20 (Q5):*

Nitecore's continuously-variable lights use PWM, but at a high enough frequency that I cannot detect it with my setup or see it by eye (Nitecore claims >1 kHz). 
Beam profile is revised from earlier D10/EX10 Cree lights, with a deeper reflector that produces a less defined hotspot with less Cree rings (i.e. more SSC-like in its pattern). 
Like the popular NiteCore D10/EX10 series, the D20 uses a piston-drive ("Smart PD") coupled with a continuously variable brightness mechanism that is visually linear across its ramp. 
The light can be used in both a tactical manner (i.e. momentary on) and forward-clicky-like manner (i.e. fully tightened, press-and-release to activate). 
Piston drive design has been updated from the earlier 1AA/1xRCR versions, and now has a fully-functioning lock-out feature. Note that the pressure required to activate the light is stiffer than a typical clicky switch.
Overall build is sturdier than original D10/EX10 - the D20 is one of the heaviest 2AA lights in this round-up (consistent with Nitecore's attempt to make this more of a "duty light").
Comes with a removable bezel-pointing pocket clip, similar to the new D10 clip (secured with two torx screws, allen key included).
Lubrication of the piston o-rings causing "sticking" remains a known potential issue (i.e. too much applied, and too thick). Minor adjustment/lubing of the spring/contact ring in the head may also be required if intermittent contact issues arise.
For a lot more info, please see my Nitecore D20 review here.
Bottom line, an impressively-built light with a powerful yet elegant feature set oo: (although there can be a few issues with lubing and piston resistance). 
Sample was provided by Nitcore for review. Light retails for ~$70.






*Olight I25 (Cree R2):*

The Olight I-series lights are basically a merger of the older Olight T-series build with the ITP circuit and UI - both revised and tweaked in a new format with the latest R2 Cree emitters. :thumbsup:
Build is similar to the T25-T (Tactical) described below, with the addition of a removable clip and clip cover/grip ring.
Circuit is similar to the ITP C8 described above, with a shortened ramp time and revised UI to support strobe/SOS with a tactical forward clicky.
Please see the Olight Infinitum Round-up review for a greater discussion of the updates to this line.
Light retails new for ~$65.






*Olight T25 (Q5) - 2008 Model*

Like Fenix, Olight uses an efficient current-controlled circuit for its various output modes. 
The regular version has 5 distinct output levels controlled by the head switch (i.e. loosen-tighten twist). Switching sequence is from Min to Max output, in a continuous loop. Light has a memory mode retaining the last level used. Light also has a high brightness rapid strobe, and a high and low brightness SOS (strobe/SOS modes accessed by rapidly clicking on the tailcap).
In contrast, the Tactical T25-T has only 3 output levels (basically levels 1, 3 and 5 of the regular version), also in a Min to Max sequence, with the tactical strobe and SOS mode following in the switching sequence. The reason for the interface change comes from the forward clicky, which allows for momentary-on and press to lock-on.




The only build difference between the regular and Tactical versions is the tailcap, which is a bit longer on the Tactical model, with a switch/cover that protrudes further due to the forward clicky.
Max output of the regular version T25 is not as high as some lights, but Tactical version is closer in output to the most heavily driven lights.
Output/runtimes were generally excellent across the range of outputs, with equivalent efficiency for the the two models (which are generally comparable to Fenix). 
While the lowest setting is not as low as the PWM-based competition, it is one of the lower ones out there for current-controlled lights. 
Max throw is among the highest of the 2AA lights. 
Olight doesn't use their original two-stage reflector on these lights - the reflector is fully textured.
Build quality is very high. Lights have a very substantial feel, a bit bulkier than the Fenix models, but with very similar overall build quality (maybe even a touch higher).
Reverse clicky tailswitch on the regular version doesn't allow tailstanding, unfortunately. Of course, the forward clicky on the T25-T won't tailstand either. 
Anodized tailcap threads allow for lock-out.
Olight is often regarded as a Fenix-clone with a revised interface and sturdier build. And what's wrong with that?  The T25 and T25-T are strong contenders in this class. I would choose between the two of them based on your preferred interface. 
Lights were provided by batteryjunction.com for review. Lights retail new for ~$70-80.






*Romisen RC-N3 II (Q5)*

The Romisen RC-N3 II is a two-stage version of the popular budget RC-N3 budget light (1xCR123A with 2xAA body tube). AFAIK, this two-stage Q5 light is only available from shiningbeam.com.
The RC-N3 II is the first true "budget" light I've included in this review, so overall build and performance is not expected to perform at quite the same level as the more expensive "brand name" premium lights.
Output levels are a bit lower than most other 2xAA lights. Output/runtime efficiency is very good on Hi, and quite acceptable on Lo.
Beam pattern is quite good - reflector is textured, producing a pleasant beam. Throw is about typical for a 2xAA light.
Light includes tailcap annodizing, so tailcap lock-out is possible. But the anodizing doesn't seem to be perfect on my sample - I found that I could still activate intermittently even when slightly unscrewed.
Slightly protruding forward-clicky tailcap, comes with a GITD button cover. Can't tailstand, but momentary-on feature is likely to be popular.
Interface is straight-forward - click once for Hi, click off/on again for low. Light remembers last mode when off for up to ~30 secs, and automatically advances to the next level with a click during within that time. :shrug:
Included clip is really designed for 1xCR123A operation.
Personally, I'm impressed with the performance and build of this light for the price. While you can't expect premium brand-name quality, I would not have a problem recommending this light for general purpose use for non-flashaholics on a budget. 
Light purchased from shiningbeam.com. Retails for ~$25.

*Some final thoughts:*

I'm a big fan of the 2AA series of lights - my first "real" LED was the Fenix L2T (Luxeon III model).  I still consider this one of the best form-factors for non-flashaholics, as it has the best combination of output, runtime, and easy battery availability. It's nice to see all the new entries in this space, including the development of more tactical-style lights.

As always, please don't ask me to pick the "best" light of this class. It all comes down to what you want to use the light for (and how much you are willing to pay for it ). 

There are a few stand-outs. For a slim-lined light with the best output runtime efficiency, it's hard to beat the Fenix L2D. For non-flashaholics, or those with a preference for a straight-forward interface on a budget, the Eagletac P100A2, Fenix L2T V2.0 and ITP C8 (especially the Tactical version) stand out in my mind. And the Romisen RC-N3 II is a very good "budget light" choice - performance and build were surprisingly good for the price. For the tactical crowd, the Olight I25 & T25-T, Eagletac P100A2/P10A2, Nitecore D20 and Fenix TK20 are all strong contenders - depending on what features most matter to you. 

We have definitely come a long way from the original 2AA minimag incandescent most of us started out with. :candle: Although I haven't covered them here, there are a lot of LED upgrades possible for this classic light (e.g. Terralux drop-ins, etc.), as well as the official minimag-LED Luxeon and newer Rebel version. Those who like a single-stage light might want to check out the budget Fenix E20 for a brighter modern equivalent. 

On a final note, it's important to acknowledge that most of the world still uses alkalines in 2AA lights. :sigh: For those in-the-know, the new generation of low self-discharge (LSD) NiMH batteries are a wondrous innovation. These are available under the Sanyo Eneloop and Rayovac Hybrid brands, as well as re-badged under a number of well-known names (most notable Duracell "pre-charged", but also available from Kodak, Sony, etc.). I strongly urge those still using alkalines to make the switch (the "Flashlight Electronic - Batteries Included" forum can provide a lot more info). But for those sticking with alkalines, I think you've find Fenix/Eagletac remains your best choices for output/runtime performance.

_*UPDATES MAY 4, 2010: *

FYI, although I haven't "officially" updated this thread in a while, I have continued adding new runtimes and beamshots to the stock photos in the main review. Here are are some full reviews of lights that have been added to the comparison graphs and tables:

Olight Infinitum I25
LiteFlux LF3XT 2xAA Battery Tube 
4Sevens Quark QAA-2
EagleTac P20A2

And a few more recent ones that haven't been added to the tables/graphs yet:

EagleTac P20A2 Mark II (XP-G R5) 
ITP SA2 (XP-E R2)

Enjoy! :wave:_


----------



## sol-leks

wow amazing review. thanks!
Why is the jetbeams beam so oogly?


----------



## Cosmo7809

Thanks SelfBulit, love your roundup reviews!


----------



## swrdply400mrelay

nice reviews! very thorough, thanks!

always wondered how the T25 would stack up against others


----------



## mickielli15

*Selfbuilt, big :thanks:for this excellent review*. I have L2D and T25T, and (according to this review), I see that it was good choice to buy them. 
I am looking forward to your next great work. Your work is helpful for lot of people to decide, which flashlight to buy - and be happy with it. The same for me. Your work is very creditable. Thanks again.


----------



## csshih

Ah! more lights that I'll never get to use to drool over!

Thanks for the reviews, man!


----------



## DM51

A _tour de force_ - superb work! This is surely going to be the definitive review for this class of light, and must now be the first stop for all those who ask for advice. Many thanks for this excellent reference thread!

Moving it to the Review section.


----------



## TONY M

A super and very useful 2xAA round up!:twothumbs This has got to be one of the best ever reviews.

Thanks for the excellent work as usual SB.


----------



## alk007

Good job - perfect review! :thumbsup:


----------



## Chao

Thanks a lot:twothumbs, excellent review for those popular 2AA lights, very informative:thumbsup:.


----------



## chanamasala

Nice.

The 2AA Ultrafire WF-606A is one of the most solid budget lights and it would be cool if you could include it sometime.


----------



## selfbuilt

:grouphug: Thanks for the support everyone. It certainly was a monster review to pull together. :sweat: But I thought it was important to compile in one place all the lights, including some I haven't reviewed individually before (e.g. Eagletac P10A, Olight T25, Fenix TK20).



sol-leks said:


> Why is the jetbeams beam so oogly?


Well, part of the issue may just be it's not too pretty up-close on a wall.  The early IBS lights tended to have noticeable "dimples" along the spillbeam margin, due to the retaining ring divots. I'm happy to note this is no longer the case on the newer lights (e.g. Jet-III M, ST, etc.). 

My Jet-I PRO EX V2 sample also just happens to have a bit of a purplish tint, which isn't very appealing next to the warm-tint L2D in the lineup. In real life, I've found it to be fine.



swrdply400mrelay said:


> always wondered how the T25 would stack up against others


Yeah, I've been meaning to get those runtimes done for awhile.  I should re-iterate though that this is the regular version - I would expect the tactical version to have a higher max output (with likely similar overall output/runtime efficiency).



chanamasala said:


> The 2AA Ultrafire WF-606A is one of the most solid budget lights and it would be cool if you could include it sometime.


Haven't seen that one, thanks for the heads-up. I've included a few other Ultrafires in some of my earlier round-ups (especially the budget single-stage ones), but have found the quality to be inconsistent. For ex., I believe Ultrafires are actually manufactured under license by a number of different factories working from the same specs - but the finished producs can vary widely (not to mention all the potential counterfeit ones). Makes it frustrating as a reviewer - you do all the work to present a light, and the next batch sold is considerably different in build or circuit performance. 

Worse still, people may have bought the light based on the info in my review - and then receive something quite different. This is why my Ultrafire C3 samples with 2AA extension tube didn't make it into this review (you can see its own stand-alone review here, and the saga than unfolded throughout the thread as more specimens came out). It's kind of like reviewing a ping-pong ball - you're never sure where it's going to wind up! :ironic:

But I agree it's important to look at these, to help separate out the better choices. And bessiebenny does a great job in his massive budget round-up thread. :thumbsup:


----------



## kraz

Thanks Selfbuilt, your timing couldn't be more perfect. Based on your review I think I've found the perfect AA light for my daughter


----------



## MattK

*Awesome work as always Eric!*

Any plans to test the T25 on alkalines?

I think you need a T25-T to add to this roundup.


----------



## Burgess

Wow ! ! !


So much work. So much useful & valuable data and information. 


Great job, SelfBuilt !


:goodjob::wow::thanks::wave:
_


----------



## LED_Thrift

Thank you again for such fantastic work selfbuilt. Your roundup reviews are the best reviews ever. Directly comparing a bunch of lights in the same class is much more informative than individual reviews. Those comparitive output/runtime graphs are the most useful data in any review. I was a huge fan of FlashlightReviews and your comparison reviews are the only ones that top his. Bravo.


----------



## Federal LG

Awesome review Eric! :twothumbs

I was anxiously waiting for it...

And I loved this part in special:
_*"Fenix TK20 is a 2-stage light with warm "neutral" Cree tint bin (likely Q2-5A). Runtimes are as expected for a Q2 light. Note that this is the best thrower in the collection, due to its larger head/reflector."*_

TK20 kicks ***! I am in love with mine!


----------



## Sharpy_swe

A truly superb review :goodjob:


----------



## frosty

Another invaluable review. Thanks for taking the time to do this and other reviews.


----------



## Crenshaw

wow! this is not mean feat...thanks for another splendid review...

Crenshaw


----------



## selfbuilt

Thanks again for the support everyone! :thanks:


MattK said:


> Any plans to test the T25 on alkalines?
> I think you need a T25-T to add to this roundup.


Ha, you must have been reading my mind! Right after posting the review, I started a run of the T25 on alkalines. Results are in, so I've just added it to the graph (hit your browser reload if it doesn't show up).

Performance is good, but I too am curious about how the T25-T would perform ... 



LED_Thrift said:


> Your roundup reviews are the best reviews ever. Directly comparing a bunch of lights in the same class is much more informative than individual reviews. Those comparitive output/runtime graphs are the most useful data in any review. I was a huge fan of FlashlightReviews and your comparison reviews are the only ones that top his. Bravo.


Thanks for that. I have the greatest respect for what Doug created with flashlightreviews. :bow: It remains the standard for flashlight reviews, IMO.

It has never been my intention to replace or recreate his work - in fact, I never planned to create detailed individual reviews in the first place.  The lack of flashlightreviews (and the requests of others ) has goaded me into producing more detailed reviews, but my main goal has always been to supply quantitative comparative data between lights, as an aid to let users make up their own minds.

That's why I like doing these Round-up Reviews - these really reflect the spirit of what I'm striving for here (although they are a boat-load of work to compile!). Individual reviews can have the unintended consequence of serving as a sales medium for some lights (or a sales inhibitor in some cases ). But it's hard to argue with runtime data or beamshots all taken under exactly the same conditions, so I think these round-ups are really my most useful contribution.

Let the user decide what works best for them! Case in point ...


kraz said:


> Based on your review I think I've found the perfect AA light for my daughter


----------



## frosty

I came to CPF via Doug's site and missed it when it he stopped it. I am sure many people arrived here in a similar fashion.


----------



## roymail

Awesome review... enjoyed reading it. Thanks!


----------



## HitecDrftr

Very nice work sir! :twothumbs

Would love to see more outdoor animated gif comparisons, especially at longer ranges.

-Hitec-


----------



## DragonFlame

This is an awesome review and I found it extremely useful to be able to clearly see how the new neutral tint LEDs compare to the cold-white ones outdoors. 
I feel honored to be a member of a community with such dedicated members.
Thanks selfbuilt !


----------



## selfbuilt

DragonFlame said:


> This is an awesome review and I found it extremely useful to be able to clearly see how the new neutral tint LEDs compare to the cold-white ones outdoors.


FYI, if it helps any, here is the control reference shot for actual daylight:












There are obvious limitations here (e.g. the daylight white balance of my camera might be different from some, just a single exposure is shown, etc.), but I have to say the animated gif does a fairly good job of showing how things looked to my eye.


----------



## adirondackdestroyer

Selfbuilt,

Once again you set the standard for flashlight reviews! I'm glad I went with the Nitecore as it has the lowest low of the bunch by a good margin.


----------



## etc

Thanks for the review.
Would be interesting to see runtimes on L91 Lithiums... I assume they all are capable of running on Lithiums.


----------



## selfbuilt

MattK said:


> I think you need a T25-T to add to this roundup.


FYI, Matt has agreed to send me a T25-T to add to the review. Will update when it arrives. 



adirondackdestroyer said:


> I'm glad I went with the Nitecore as it has the lowest low of the bunch by a good margin.


Yeah - I did a low mode alkaline run, and got just over 10 days on the D20 at its lowest setting.  Of course, there's bound to be a lot runtime variability, but that is certainly impressive! 



etc said:


> Would be interesting to see runtimes on L91 Lithiums... I assume they all are capable of running on Lithiums.


It would ... except my battery fund can't quite swing 20+ L91s at the moment. 

Based on my experience with 1AA lights, L91 typically provides ~50-70% greater runtime over Sanyo eneloop, although with a slightly less regulated pattern. Relative output differences tend to be maintained (although I've found Nitecores tend to drop a little in relative output). 

You can see some detailed 1AA runtimes for various lights on L91 in my latest 1AA light review, the ITP C7.


----------



## 1996alnl

Thanks for the effort. Excellent review,very useful.


----------



## Sector7

Thank you Selfbuilt, for all your hard work and dedication....your reviews are a valued resource!


----------



## EngrPaul

Great review. Incredible list of contenders. 

I think there will be an huge number of CPF members and non-member lurkers benefitting from this comparison. 

*I have owned a few of these 2AA lights, but the only ones I have kept are the Nitecore D20 and Fenix TK20. I have the bases covered with just these two lights, the rest have been sold on CPFM. *

I might own the EagleTac P10A2 or Fenix L2D, but I already have a similar light in a CR123 configuration.

I also have an Ultrafire WF-606A, which is a good light, but it's only single stage, and is not waterproof due to an undersized lens. It's an around-the-house light I leave for the wife to use. :nana:


----------



## MattK

_promo removed_


----------



## RA40

EXCELLENT! Thanks for the detailed reviews!


----------



## LED_Thrift

_promo reply removed_


----------



## selfbuilt

LED_Thrift said:


> Thank you, Matt! :twothumbs This will benefit us all.


Indeed, a very generous contribution to my battery fund - thanks Matt. I will put these toward runtimes of the 2AA listed here (on max, to compare to alkaline and NiMH).

Might take a few days (!) to get through them all, though ... 



EngrPaul said:


> I have owned a few of these 2AA lights, but the only ones I have kept are the Nitecore D20 and Fenix TK20. I have the bases covered with just these two lights, the rest have been sold on CPFM.


Interesting choices - the light that can go the lowest, and the light that throws the furthest. Sounds like you have the bases covered 

Personally, I can't see myself without at least one Fenix L2D/L2T in my collection. Maybe I'm just nostalgic, but my first real LED light (aside from a few cheap multi-5mm clones - cheap in quality, not price that is) was the original Fenix L2T (lux III). Something about the minimalist interface and body plan just appeals to me.


----------



## csshih

very generous, matt!


----------



## LG&M

Selfbuilt thank you very much as usual good job. We have a lot of great light to pick from & I still don't know which one I want. I would like to see the Kingpower K2 in there.( Like you don't have enough going on). 
Matt you are such a enabler. Thank you for that.


----------



## MattK

Hah - I've accused of being an enabler many times, perhaps it's true...


----------



## NightTime

Thank you Matt and selfbuilt!! I'm disturbed about this Olight T25 Tactical test. Keep on the good work!! :twothumbs


----------



## armstrg3

Good Day all ! My first time on the forum and I'm hoping someone is kind enough to steer me in the right direction. I'm interested in a 2xAA light that produces a long throw tight focused beam. I had absolutely no idea there were so many lights to choose from!!!! From my limited knowledge I was looking at the Fenix L2T v2.0 or the L2D CE. Prior to me finding this forum I stumbled across the coast led lenser that produced 149 lumens which appeared to be a good choice?? I'm so in the dark!:thinking:


----------



## roymail

armstrg3 said:


> Good Day all ! My first time on the forum and I'm hoping someone is kind enough to steer me in the right direction. I'm interested in a 2xAA light that produces a long throw tight focused beam. I had absolutely no idea there were so many lights to choose from!!!! From my limited knowledge I was looking at the Fenix L2T v2.0 or the L2D CE. Prior to me finding this forum I stumbled across the coast led lenser that produced 149 lumens which appeared to be a good choice?? I'm so in the dark!:thinking:


 
First, welcome to CPF... you've found a great place to learn and get answers to questions such as the one you've asked. However, there is a subjective element to all of this. Ultimately, you have to decide what is best for you.

That said, the Fenix lights you mentioned are good choices along with the TK20. Also, the Olights tend to have a more focused beam with good throw... be sure to check them out.

Finally, here is very helpful website... http://www.light-reviews.com/reviews.html

So many lights... so little money!

:welcome:


----------



## selfbuilt

armstrg3 said:


> I'm interested in a 2xAA light that produces a long throw tight focused beam.


The Fenix L2D/L2T lights are definitely stronger contenders. They are great overall lights with decent throw. As you can see in the review beamshots and summary table, there are some lights that throw better and have slightly narrower spillbeams - but the difference between most of these lights isn't so great in actual use. I think you would be happy with either the L2D or L2T.

LED lenser (i.e. Coast) lights aren't generally very popular here, since they are perceived to make a large number of relatively lower quality lights (although certain select models can be quite decent).

And :welcome:


----------



## NightTime

armstrg3 said:


> I'm interested in a 2xAA light that produces a long throw tight focused beam.


 
I agree that the Fenix TK20 and the Olight T25 (Tactical or Regular version) are your best choices. If you go at light-reviews.com, filter your choices by battery type (here it's AA) and than click twice on "Max Lux" just below the battery type window to sort them. Because Lux reading are giving you the throw of a light the best thrower will be at the top. Between the first three kings there are some major user interface (UI) differences. Read the full and excellent reviews of them.

Fenix TK20
Bigger
Warm light (yellowish tint)
Simple UI (2 modes)

Olight T25 Reg.
Smaller than TK20
Lots of different modes (I really like the UI of this one)
Neutral white
Reverse push button

Olight T25 Tact.
Smaller than TK20
Different UI than the Regular version
Less modes than the Regular version
Neutral white
Foward push button

Don't forget to have a look at the EagleTac P10A2. It may be fourth on this chart, but amoung the 2AA falshlight it's the one that's gonna give you the most lumens out the front (OTF). 173 lumens in fact as tested by one of the members here:https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/211402

Take your time to make the best choice for you... or buy them all .

:welcome:


----------



## armstrg3

Thank u gentlemen for pointing me in the right direction. In reviewing the very thorough charts I'm trying to put some of the terms into something I can visualize. For example the throw chart lists max throw and gives a lux value, how far is this in feet? I've been researching and will be choosing between one of the following: Fenix L2D premium Q5 and the Olight T25. The Olight claims to have technology that eliminates strobing effect?


----------



## selfbuilt

armstrg3 said:


> For example the throw chart lists max throw and gives a lux value, how far is this in feet? ... The Olight claims to have technology that eliminates strobing effect?


The "strobing" refers to the flicker induced by PWM (pulse-width modulated) output control - and neither Olight, Fenix nor Eagletac use it (they are all "current-controlled"). But it's largely irrelevant now - all the modern lights here that do use PWM do so at such a high frequency that it is not detectable by eye (i.e. >1kHz). It was an issue on some of the early PWM, but it's no longer a problem on any of these.

To relate throw/lux to feet is problematic. It depends on what consider sufficient lux any given point to see clearly - and at further distances, you would likely need more than up close.

Since light decays by an inverse-square law, I convert all my 1m lux measures into "throw" (i.e. squareroot lux). This allows you to linearly compare lights. So, a light that has a center peak "throw"of 70 would allow you to see an object twice as far a "throw" value of 35.


----------



## NightTime

armstrg3 said:


> I've been researching and will be choosing between one of the following: Fenix L2D premium Q5 and the Olight T25.


 
armstrg3,

You might consider this fresh new thread to help you choose:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/215906


----------



## roymail

Just a couple of things to keep in mind...

1. when you get up around 150 +/- lumens, a variation of 25-50 lumens is difficult to perceive.

2. there's always a trade off... more brightness, less runtime (although it's lots better than it use to be). This is where a multi-mode (example: low, med, hi) can be helpful when you don't need to use the hi output all the time... therefore conserving battery power.

3. a white beam may look cool (pun intended) on a white wall, but in real life situations, it's not as useful as a more neutral or warmer tint. One of my favorite tint is a WG bin.

these are my experiences... YMMV!


----------



## armstrg3

OK, great information and suggestions. I am going to try out a Fenix with the 7090 Cree probably the L2D premium, but considering something utilizing 1-AA.


----------



## KiwiMark

roymail said:


> Just a couple of things to keep in mind...
> 
> 1. when you get up around 150 +/- lumens, a variation of 25-50 lumens is difficult to perceive.
> 
> 2. there's always a trade off... more brightness, less runtime (although it's lots better than it use to be). This is where a multi-mode (example: low, med, hi) can be helpful when you don't need to use the hi output all the time... therefore conserving battery power.
> 
> 3. a white beam may look cool (pun intended) on a white wall, but in real life situations, it's not as useful as a more neutral or warmer tint. One of my favorite tint is a WG bin.
> 
> these are my experiences... YMMV!



There is much truth here!

1. - so true!
I have 180, 225, 230 & 250 Lumen output lights, they are all bright and the beam pattern makes more difference than the LED output.

2 - I love my Jetbeam IBS!
My favourites setup is a very low output to not hurt my night vision (and give a very long run time) + a useful medium that will do the job most of the time without running the batteries flat too fast or causing too much heat + maximum for when you just want all the light you can get.

3 - a white beam is good, if it IS white!
My ideal is for the light to be pure white (the closer to neutral the better), followed by slightly warm (if not completely neutral than warm is better than cool) and least ideal is blue tint. My worst light is my Fenix E01, the light is damn near purple! My Maglite with Malkoff drop-in is a very nice tint.


----------



## selfbuilt

Olight T25-T (Tactical) now been added to the review.  Hit your browser refresh button on the first page if the new runtimes/charts don't show up.

I haven't included a new picture of the light, since it looks identical to the regular T25, including all the markings. The only visual difference is the tailcap, which has the Tactical label:







As you can see, the tailcap is a bit longer on the Tactical model, with a switch/cover that protrudes further due to the forward clicky.

The main differences to the regular version are the revised output levels and interface. The T25-T is driven a bit harder at max than the regular version, but otherwise has exactly the same output/runtime efficiency.

UI-wise, the the regular version has 5 distinct output levels controlled by the head switch (i.e. loosen-tighten twist). Switching sequence is from Min to Max output, in a continuous loop. Light has a memory mode retaining the last level used. Light also has a high brightness rapid strobe, and a high and low brightness SOS (strobe/SOS modes accessed by rapidly clicking on the tailcap).

In contrast, the Tactical T25-T has only 3 output levels (basically levels 1, 3 and 5 of the regular version) also in a Min to Max sequence, with the tactical strobe and SOS mode following in the switching sequence. The reason for the interface change comes from the forward clicky, which allows for momentary-on and press to lock-on.

Basically, the I don't find the output issue to be a huge difference (although it does put the T25-T in the same range as the L2D/LD20). I would recommend choosing between the Olights based on their interface.
:wave:


----------



## NightTime

selfbuilt said:


> [...] UI-wise, the the regular version has 5 distinct output levels controlled by the head switch (i.e. loosen-tighten twist). Switching sequence is from Max to Min output, in a continuous loop. [...]


 
From Max to Low with the T25 Regular version  ?
Did Olight make two versions of the T25 Reg?

Mine is from Low to Max, which coincides with Mev's results at light-reviews.com

BTW, thanks for adding the T25 Tactical. Always wanted to see the differences between those two versions :thumbsup:.


----------



## selfbuilt

NightTime said:


> From Max to Low with the T25 Regular version  ?
> Did Olight make two versions of the T25 Reg?


Sorry about that - the regular version is also from Low to Hi. Not sure why I had listed wrong the original review. Just fixed it, thanks.


----------



## NightTime

No problem selfbuilt, I wasn't sure anymore... I almost played with my T25 Reg. to make sure!


----------



## droeun

I know very little about batteries, but why do the alkalines stink so bad? I thought that since the flashlight was regulated, the consumption would be flat and constant like the eneloops. Thanks for any help.


----------



## TONY M

droeun said:


> I know very little about batteries, but why do the alkalines stink so bad? I thought that since the flashlight was regulated, the consumption would be flat and constant like the eneloops. Thanks for any help.


This is due to alkalines high internal resistance making then unsuitable for high drain applications.

Good alkalines do store as much power as the best NIMH cells though.

They are great in devices that do not require much energy consumption like clocks, TV remotes etc, but not good in high power flashlights.


----------



## droeun

TONY M said:


> This is due to alkalines high internal resistance making then unsuitable for high drain applications.
> 
> Good alkalines do store as much power as the best NIMH cells though.
> 
> They are great in devices that do not require much energy consumption like clocks, TV remotes etc, but not good in high power flashlights.



So there is really no benefit in using a regulated flashlight with alkaline batteries, only rechargeables right? Thanks again for the advice.


----------



## alohaluau

Wow! An excellent review as usual, thanks selfbuilt! 

I started off with single and double AA sized battery "torches" (that's what we use in Oz ) due to convenience and availability, this thread is a good starting reference point, if not *THE *thread.

Kudos!

Cheers,
Luau


----------



## HKJ

droeun said:


> So there is really no benefit in using a regulated flashlight with alkaline batteries, only rechargeables right? Thanks again for the advice.



With a regulated light your get constant output, as long as the batteries can supply the current. Alkaline will start at 1.5 volt and then decline, how fast the voltages decline will depend on the current draw. With regulation your get constant output but fast decline, with direct drive your get a slower decline (because the current draw goes down with the voltage) and a decreasing output. It is up to your what your prefer.


----------



## selfbuilt

droeun said:


> So there is really no benefit in using a regulated flashlight with alkaline batteries, only rechargeables right? Thanks again for the advice.


Another point to add to the above responses is that most of these lights are actually quite well regulated on alkalines at lower output levels. It is just max brightness that tends to suck on alkalines, since it is such a high drain. If I had time to do lower output modes settings, you'd see much better performance. 

Although it's old now, my last 1AA round-up has some examples of lower mode alkaline tests.


----------



## selfbuilt

I've updated the review with runtimes on max on L91 lithium cells







No major surprises - relative outputs and runtimes match what I would expect. Overall, L91 is of course much better regulated on all lights, with typically about 3X the runtime over standard alkalines.

Interesting little "bounce" all the lights make as they drop out of regulation on the nearly depleted L91s. Much be a characteristic of the battery chemistry, since the lights all have different circuits.

:wave:


----------



## LED_Thrift

Another interesting thing in the above graph is the similarity of the Jetbeam and EagleTac curves. Thanks again for this great info.


----------



## Stereodude

selfbuilt said:


> My LD20 sample has slightly better throw, but a ringier beam.


I found the LD20 to have considerably better throw outside at a distance compared to the L2D Q5 and L2D R100. oo:

LD20 Q5:




L2D Q5:




L2D R100:




The LD20 addresses my two biggest complaints about the L2D, the outdoor throw and the tendency to roll off tables and other flat surfaces.


----------



## ALowe

So what is the longest running light in this category on high? The Fenix LD2?


----------



## TONY M

ALowe said:


> So what is the longest running light in this category on high? The Fenix LD2?


The ITP C8T runs the longest on high but the Fenix L2D is very close and it is a good bit brighter.


----------



## Swedpat

*I was considering a purchase of Fenix LD20, but am surprised of the bad runtime in comparison to L2D: practically the same brightness, but 30** minutes **(33%)* *shorter at turbomode! **It's an evolution in wrong direction...

Regards, Patric
*


----------



## Stereodude

Swedpat said:


> *I was considering a purchase of Fenix LD20, but am surprised of the bad runtime in comparison to L2D: practically the same brightness, but 30** minutes **(33%)* *shorter at turbomode! **It's an evolution in wrong direction...*


FWIW, I measured the current consumption on one of my L2D Q5's and my LD20 Q5 in turbo both with freshly charged Eneloops, and found the LD20's current dropped after turning it on, and the L2D's went up after turning it on. Within about 30 seconds of turning them on the LD20 was using less current than the L2D, which means it should have longer battery life. :shrug:

I will have to measure my other L2D's later today.


----------



## ALowe

Swedpat said:


> *I was considering a purchase of Fenix LD20, but am surprised of the bad runtime in comparison to L2D: practically the same brightness, but 30** minutes **(33%)* *shorter at turbomode! **It's an evolution in wrong direction...*
> 
> *Regards, Patric*


 
I thought the LD20 Premium Q5 was an update to the L2D? Are there any comparisons of the LD20 Q5 and the L2D Premium Q5? They both seem to have the same 180 lumens on turbo but over 30 minutes more on the L2D?


----------



## selfbuilt

ALowe said:


> I thought the LD20 Premium Q5 was an update to the L2D? Are there any comparisons of the LD20 Q5 and the L2D Premium Q5? They both seem to have the same 180 lumens on turbo but over 30 minutes more on the L2D?


Please keep in mind you are looking at n=1 for each light. 

The L2D and LD20 have effectively the same circuit - you can consider them as equivalent lights. The difference in runtime you are seeing is probably due more to Vf variation among individual emitters than anything else. There is no predicting that.

If you look at the Medium runtime graphs, you will see there is less difference between my L2D and LD20 samples. It seems to be mainly the Turbo mode that is affected (and most noticeably on Eneloop - less so on L91).

I would simply buy whichever one had the body/reflector design you prefer.


----------



## jirik_cz

Swedpat said:


> *I was considering a purchase of Fenix LD20, but am surprised of the bad runtime in comparison to L2D: practically the same brightness, but 30** minutes **(33%)* *shorter at turbomode! **It's an evolution in wrong direction...
> 
> Regards, Patric
> *



FYI I've measured runtimes of LD20 Q5 and LD10 and PD20 heads on the LD20 body and I've got 1:51 - 2:02 runtime till 50% brightness drop with sanyo 2700mAh batteries.


----------



## NightTime

selfbuilt said:


> The L2D and LD20 have effectively the same circuit - you can consider them as equivalent lights. The difference in runtime you are seeing is probably due more to Vf variation among individual emitters than anything else. There is no predicting that.


 
While this is true we see differences among individual emitters I'm not fully convinced this is the actual reason why we see a difference at turbo mode between these two lights. In fact, Fenix's own website is revealing this difference. They advertise the L2D @ 2.4 hours on turbo mode and the LD20 @ 2 hours.

That said, maybe Fenix simply tried to be more accurate with their runtime than they were before.


----------



## krayzeemofo

wow, now I cant decide between the Fenix LD20 and the Eagletac P10A2, lol. however, after looking around a bit, it seems that the Eagletac's build quality is inferior to Fenix'.


----------



## ODatsBright

Tremendous work selfbuilt! Thank you for providing such great reviews and information.

I'm in the market for a 2AA light and found this astonishing thread. I'm torn between the Fenix LD20 and the Nitecore D20 and from the extensive reviews I still can't seem to make up my mind. I'm not sure how much I'd use the continuous ramping feature of the D20 as I mainly use low, mid range and full blast. Decisions, Decisions....  

Does anyone know if Fenix is soon to come out with an R2 version of the LD20? I would just hate to buy a D20 and then HAVE to buy a LD20-R2 too.


----------



## dealgrabber2002

Selfbuilt, 

Can you do a review on shiningbeam new RC-N3 II? I heard from him you bought one a week ago. Thanks in advance.


----------



## selfbuilt

dealgrabber2002 said:


> Can you do a review on shiningbeam new RC-N3 II? I heard from him you bought one a week ago. Thanks in advance.


Yes, I will be adding the RC-N3 II and Eagletac P100A2 to this round-up. I am travelling frequently these days, so it will likely be at least another week or so before I have time to do the testing and post the results.


----------



## dealgrabber2002

Thanks in advace Selfbuilt!


----------



## iocheretyanny

I wonder how the 2AA Lens-light with Focusable Aspherical Lens System would compare here?


https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/208292


----------



## ImGeo

Absolutely love this thread! Very informative, easy to understand, complete... and my favorite: covers 2xAA, the only format I am going to consider for this near future (chargers for other battery types only get complicated).


----------



## JoviaL

Can someone show more beamshots of LD20 and TK20 with the longer distance? TIA!


----------



## hiker123

Thanks for the review *selfbulit*! :thumbsup: Great job and it really helped clear some things up for me.

I was just wondering if you know the operating temperatures for some of the lights, namely the *LD20* and *TK20*? Can they handle say winter camping or being left in the car year round (hot summers and cold Canadian winters) and still function when needed? I was going to run them with lithium batteries. I'm a noob so if the answer is obvious please forgive.
Cheers


----------



## jennojr

Great to read a review that is both well written and performed by someone with an obvious clue, thank you thank you. Can't wait to see a review from you on the Fenix TK40


----------



## selfbuilt

Glad you are all enjoying the thread. I'll be updating it soon with lights currently in testing (Eagletac P100A2 and Romisen RC-N3 II), and a few new ones en route.



hiker123 said:


> I was just wondering if you know the operating temperatures for some of the lights, namely the *LD20* and *TK20*? Can they handle say winter camping or being left in the car year round (hot summers and cold Canadian winters) and still function when needed? I was going to run them with lithium batteries. I'm a noob so if the answer is obvious please forgive.


:welcome:

Either light should be fine for your car, as long as you use L91 lithium batteries (alkalines and NiMH do not survive the extremes of the Canadian environment very well). In fact, any solid aluminum light should be ok. I'd recommend you store it with the tailcap locked-out (a nice feature on all Fenix lihgts). Always a good idea to play it safe when using multiple-cell configurations.


----------



## dealgrabber2002

Did you get a chance to do a review on the RC-N3 Q5 II from Shiningbeam? Thanks!


----------



## johnny3073

Excellent review selfbuilt!

I purchased the Fenix LD20 about a month ago because of this thread, and couldn't be happier. It does everything I need in a "car" light. The construction, output, runtime, and finish are excellent. 

Thanks for the great review!

:twothumbs


----------



## selfbuilt

dealgrabber2002 said:


> Did you get a chance to do a review on the RC-N3 Q5 II from Shiningbeam? Thanks!


Since you asked nicely ... 

I've just updated the first post with the results and discussion of the Eagletac P100A2, Lumapower Connexion X2 2xAA, and Romisen RC-N3 II.

Enjoy! :wave:


----------



## BigBluefish

Seems the AA extender for the Connexion X2 is a good accessory for those who like the 2 AA format. It increases the runtimes dramatically, which, except for the 'high' setting in the 1 x AA configuration, are already pretty impressive. But offering no increase in output, I still think the Connexion X2 really shines, if you'll pardon the pun, as a 1 x AA.

What I found disappointing though, was the "high" output on the RC-N3 II Q5. Granted, the runtime is great. But I was hoping for a blaster, with an optional medum-ish mode, but it seems the manufacturer went for a more balanced approach to output and runtime. Still, it may prove a practical light, and is still probably brighter on "high" than my old model with a p4, so I may still splurge for the completely outrageous $25 asking price, and add it to my other Romisens.


----------



## selfbuilt

BigBluefish said:


> But offering no increase in output, I still think the Connexion X2 really shines, if you'll pardon the pun, as a 1 x AA. ... What I found disappointing though, was the "high" output on the RC-N3 II Q5.


No disagreement here - the X2 is very efficient little 1xAA. 

As for the Romisen, I believe the single-stage RC-N3 Q5 is brighter (but don't have one to test). They do seem to have gone with a more balanced approach for the 2-stage.


----------



## makuyo

hi selfbuilt,

does your P100A2 with the slight off centered xp-e led creates a donut hole in the spot of the beam?
lets say, around 5m-10m throw..??


----------



## selfbuilt

makuyo said:


> does your P100A2 with the slight off centered xp-e led creates a donut hole in the spot of the beam?
> lets say, around 5m-10m throw..??


No, can't say I see much a donut there - the hotspot looks pretty even (and well demarcated from the corona/spill). Impressive throw for the size of the head.


----------



## dudu84

Thanks for your amazing work Selfbuilt, your comparisons (not just on 2xAA lights) are very much among the most informative threads people can find on CPF 

Back to the lights, the P100A2 looks so promising! it rivals L2D in both output and efficiency but it wins in throw, grip, price and simplicity (might be a con here). Please let us know about its durability after some use


----------



## lightbug

selfbuilt, 
Thank you for the great review, you rock dude!


----------



## DM51

Many thanks for the update with additions. This thread continues to be essential reading for anyone considering a 2xAA light. There is no other comparison review that comes close to the comprehensive detail found here.


----------



## Stereodude

Thanks for the update! :wave:


----------



## Marlite

Originally Posted by *MattK* 

 
_*Awesome work as always Eric!*

Any plans to test the T25 on alkalines?

I think you need a T25-T to add to this roundup. 
_






selfbuilt said:


> FYI, Matt has agreed to send me a T25-T to add to the review. Will update when it arrives.
> 
> Yeah - I did a low mode alkaline run, and got just over 10 days on the D20 at its lowest setting.  Of course, there's bound to be a lot runtime variability, but that is certainly impressive!
> 
> It would ... except my battery fund can't quite swing 20+ L91s at the moment.
> Based on my experience with 1AA lights, L91 typically provides ~50-70% greater runtime over Sanyo eneloop, although with a slightly less regulated pattern. Relative output differences tend to be maintained (although I've found Nitecores tend to drop a little in relative output).
> 
> You can see some detailed 1AA runtimes for various lights on L91 in my latest 1AA light review, the ITP C7.



_Bett__er take the alkalines MattK offered you and hope Stanglighter04 has some L91's for you too. _ :wave:


----------



## MattK

I sent selfbuilt a box of L91's a while back - and a T25. See the updates from Dec./Jan.


----------



## selfbuilt

Marlite said:


> Better take the alkalines MattK offered you and hope Stanglighter04 has some L91's for you too.


I'm afraid I've already burned through all the L91s Matt generously provided (and then some ). 

FYI, when it comes to batteries, I stick with only established sources to insure authentic quality and brand-new status. I pay a price premium for that, but it's only way to insure consistency and reliability of the test results (it would be less of an issue if it was only for personal use).


----------



## selfbuilt

Just added the Olight Infinitum I25 to the Round-up review.

This is basically an upgraded Olight T25-T with a tweaked version of the ITP C8 continuously-variable circuit. Enjoy!


----------



## curry__muncha

Thanks to this excellent review-array i have managed to narrow down my next flashlight down to the Fenix LD20 and the EagleTac P10A2 =D

Which one out of the two would you say has greater/more luminescent spill? Looking at the pictures, they look very similar. As i plan on using it as a bicycle light, a broader spot with more spill would be desirable, and it seemed as if the P10A2 had brighter spill, but that said, it shouldnt be the case considering it produces a lot of throw (which would detract from it producing greater spill)

Logic dictates i lean towards the LD20 (theoretically more spill and wider spot). Any feedback would be much appreciated. =D

Edit:

https://www.eagletac-store.com/product_reviews_info.php?products_id=607&reviews_id=395


> EagleTac P10A2 [EP10A2]
> by Ray U_ Date Added: Sunday 01 February, 2009
> 
> I bought this light to replace a Fenix LD20 for EDC.
> 
> Whilst I cannot fault it for brightness or beam quality, build quality is very poor for a light of this class. I consider what happened to mine as a design flaw.
> 
> The light dropped out of my pocket and onto the floor, a drop of about 3 feet. The light fell on the tailcap, which survived fine. However, the lens shattered and one the metal reverse polarity bits has fallen off.
> 
> Very Very dissappointed.
> 
> Rating: 1 of 5 Stars! [1 of 5 Stars!]



This is quite shocking, considering that according to EdgeTac "P10A2 features Syntax II lens for maximum light transmission and superior shock-proof ability". I really do think im completely convinced to go with the Fenix LD20


----------



## lebox97

"*New features/improvements: 2-9-09*
Revised head design for enhanced impact resistance!
Revised tail cap design for enhanced conductivity
Crenulated stainless steel bezel (optional)

*Syntax II Lens:* The P10A2 features Syntax II lens for maximum light transmission and superior shock-proof ability. Syntax II windows allows up to 99% of brightness to pass through. Multiple layers of anti-reflection optical coating are applied on the optical grade lens to ensure ultimate output performance. Harden treatment is also performed on the Syntax II windows to withstand damage against smacking, throwing, free falling, or recoil. 

..."

quote from PTS site seems to asnswer part of this?



curry__muncha said:


> ...This is quite shocking, considering that according to EdgeTac "P10A2 features Syntax II lens for maximum light transmission and superior shock-proof ability". ...


----------



## selfbuilt

curry__muncha said:


> Thanks to this excellent review-array i have managed to narrow down my next flashlight down to the Fenix LD20 and the EagleTac P10A2 =D


I would have to let others with more experience of bike riding at night to comment here (I keep a light on my bike in case I get stuck somewhere at night - something I try to avoid ). 

I think either would do fine, and I believe Eagletac had addressed some of the early design issues that led to shattering of the lens on the P10A2. Of course, all lights can break - it's hard to estimate the overall stability of a model.


----------



## Neill_Currie

In several threads about the Jetbeam Pro lights (mine has IBS, and is a Pro1)people mention both "high" and "turbo", almost in the same sentence, as if to indicate that high and turbo are somehow separate modes.
Yet nowhere in the Jetbeam literature that came with my light can I find mention of how to access turbo mode.
So, do these two modes exist, separately.......or are people merely getting confused???
I asked another owner of the same light as mine, and he was similarly non-plussed.


----------



## selfbuilt

Neill_Currie said:


> In several threads about the Jetbeam Pro lights (mine has IBS, and is a Pro1)people mention both "high" and "turbo", almost in the same sentence, as if to indicate that high and turbo are somehow separate modes.


'Turbo" is just a stand-in label for the max possible output (i.e. Max = Turbo). "High" could mean the same thing, or it may be referring to the "Default High" level that the original IBS circuit comes with in the first memory position. This is ~70% of Max output (you can bring it back by doing a circuit reset).


----------



## NightTime

curry__muncha said:


> Which one out of the two would you say has greater/more luminescent spill?


 
Like you said, the LD20 was design to produce a more focused beam then the P10A2. That said, the P10A2 still produce more lux (throw mesurement) AND more spill then the LD20. Why? simply cause the P10A2 is producing a huge amount of light compared to other 2AA flashlights. Of course, the price to pay is less runtime, but not that much.

Here, from light-reviews.com






And like *lebox97* wrote, Eagletac corrected the flaws. PTS are very clear about what they now sell :thumbsup:. Some other places do not clearly states if they're selling you the new version or not.


----------



## curry__muncha

Thanks for the responses! that has definitely helped clear things up =D


----------



## selfbuilt

NightTime said:


> Why? simply cause the P10A2 is producing a huge amount of light compared to other 2AA flashlights.





curry__muncha said:


> Thanks for the responses! that has definitely helped clear things up =D


Just noticed this exchange - one thing I would clarify is that the P10A2 is NOT that much brighter than the LD20. 

Although the difference in centre-beam throw and spill brightness is measurable between my two samples (i.e. detectable with instrumentation), overall brightness is in fact pretty close (see my lightbox and ceiling bounce numbers). You would not be able to easily discern a difference in brightness between them, even with the lights side-by-side. This is especially true when you consider there will be natural variation between samples due to the emitter output bin range, circuit tolerances, etc. And the effect of tint greatly obscures our ability to compare visually.

The P100A2 is similarly as bright overall, but here the throw is noticeably further due to the different emitter and optics.

PS: I have just updated the main post to include the beamshots, summary results, and runtimes of the Quark AA-2 and LiteFlux LF3XT 2xAA version.  I haven't written up background blurbs on those lights yet, but you can learn more about them in their own stand-alone reviews.


----------



## Buckeye

Thank you selfbuilt for the review.
Did you notice with fresh lithium batteries that the 3 lower levels on the Olight T25R are almost the same. I played with this light for a few hours and thought I had a problem. The two lower levels seem the same brightness, the third is slightly brighter, then the fourth and fifth levels are noticeably brighter. When I put in Eneloops I had 5 distinct levels. Also the lowest level seemed lower on Eneloops than the lithium batteries. :shrug:
I really like the T25R. I bought it for my wife, but maybe I can talk her into my old L2D.


----------



## selfbuilt

Buckeye said:


> Thank you selfbuilt for the review.
> Did you notice with fresh lithium batteries that the 3 lower levels on the Olight T25R are almost the same.


Good catch - you are quite right, on the Olight T25R the lower 3 levels are indistinguishable on 2xL91 lithiums. :thinking: Basically, you lack the lowest two levels on this battery source.

Interestingly, the T25T retains it 3 levels of output on L91s (basically the same as L1, L3, and L5 of the T25R). Go figure ...


----------



## Boss Hogg

I'm a noobie and this was one of the first threads I read. Very helpful!


----------



## berry580

Higher lux numbers alone means nothing, especially with the spill.


NightTime said:


> Like you said, the LD20 was design to produce a more focused beam then the P10A2. That said, the P10A2 still produce more lux (throw mesurement) AND more spill then the LD20. Why? simply cause the P10A2 is producing a huge amount of light compared to other 2AA flashlights. Of course, the price to pay is less runtime, but not that much.
> 
> Here, from light-reviews.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And like *lebox97* wrote, Eagletac corrected the flaws. PTS are very clear about what they now sell :thumbsup:. Some other places do not clearly states if they're selling you the new version or not.


----------



## Hyperian

Just received the Romisen RC-N3 II with latest version of the driver released 27/10/09 from Shining Beam. 
Nothing similar to test it against but according to the website it is meant to be brighter. The quality of the build is very impressive for the price.


----------



## selfbuilt

Just a :bump: for an old round-up thread. There seems to be a lot of 2xAA light questions popping up in the main forum these days. 

FYI, although I haven't "officially" updated this thread in a while, I have continued adding new runtimes and beamshots to the stock photos in the main review. Here are are some full reviews of lights that have been added to the comparison graphs and tables:

Olight Infinitum I25
LiteFlux LF3XT 2xAA Battery Tube 
4Sevens Quark QAA-2
EagleTac P20A2

And a few more recent ones that haven't been added to the tables/graphs yet:

EagleTac P20A2 Mark II (XP-G R5) 
ITP SA2 (XP-E R2)

Enjoy! :wave:


----------



## KurtS

selfbuilt said:


> We have definitely come a long way from the original 2AA minimag incandescent most of us started out with. :candle: Although I haven't covered them here, there are a lot of LED upgrades possible for this classic light (e.g. Terralux drop-ins, etc.), as well as the official minimag-LED Luxeon and newer Rebel version.


Selfbuilt,
Lots of us have old Mags or other incand lights laying around. If you are ever motivated, it would be great to see a test comparing the different Mag drop-ins and the LED PR-style replacement bulbs. 
Personally, I wouldn't mind seeing the low-end bulbs tested. Mainly cause I'd probably be better off spending the big $$ on new lights, but would probably drop $5-15 in a new bulb for the old lights for the efficiency gain. 

Thanks for all you do! Great reviews!


----------



## wyager

Well, since this thread got necro-bumped anyway.... Are there any comparisons for quark AA^2s with the NEW R4 and R5 emitters? I keep seeing R2 170 lumens, but now we have 190 and 206 OTF lumens too. It seems to me like that is brighter than any comparable (2xAA) light in this price range ($50-70) like the LD20 or nitecore D20 (as I've heard nitecore overrates their outputs a bit). If anyone has a link to some graphs comparing the new AA^2s as well that would be great.


----------



## selfbuilt

KurtS said:


> Lots of us have old Mags or other incand lights laying around. If you are ever motivated, it would be great to see a test comparing the different Mag drop-ins and the LED PR-style replacement bulbs.


Sorry, haven't looked at drop-ins in a long while. I did test a few of the earlier luxeon drop-ins, and a few PR-ones, back when I first started, but I don't think those results weren't posted here (they weren't done in this lightbox, so don't directly compare). Too many new lights coming to go back and test things that are no longer available, I'm afraid. :shrug: 



wyager said:


> Well, since this thread got necro-bumped anyway.... Are there any comparisons for quark AA^2s with the NEW R4 and R5 emitters?


Haven't tested the new Quarks myself, but I did review the new Fenix R4s recently.

Basically no time to update the round-up reviews right now, just too many new lights coming in. But you can check out my recent reviews for comparisons to the older lights listed here.


----------



## SmurfTacular

Great review, when you say lithium, are you reffering to lithium disposables or 14500 cells?
Is there a *2 AA torch that can accept two 14500 cells? The LD20 is a great sized torch, but I would really enjoy it more if it could accept two 14500 cells.


----------



## wyager

SmurfTacular said:


> Great review, when you say lithium, are you reffering to lithium disposables or 14500 cells?
> Is there a *2 AA torch that can accept two 14500 cells? The LD20 is a great sized torch, but I would really enjoy it more if it could accept two 14500 cells.



The quark 123^2 head with the AA^2 body.


----------



## selfbuilt

SmurfTacular said:


> Great review, when you say lithium, are you reffering to lithium disposables or 14500 cells?
> Is there a *2 AA torch that can accept two 14500 cells?





wyager said:


> The quark 123^2 head with the AA^2 body.


When I say "lithium" for AA, I always mean primary L91 energizer e2 lithium. None of the 2xAA lights will take 2x14500 (which I would refer to as "Li-ion"). That would blow their circuits.

The one exception being what wyager pointed out - the Quark 123-2 head would work on a AA-2 body with 2x14500 Li-ion. However, the 123-2 head would be very dim on 2xAA cells - that head is rated for a higher voltage range. So effectively, you would loose support for anything but 2x14500 in that configuration.


----------



## wyager

selfbuilt said:


> When I say "lithium" for AA, I always mean primary L91 energizer e2 lithium. None of the 2xAA lights will take 2x14500 (which I would refer to as "Li-ion"). That would blow their circuits.
> 
> The one exception being what wyager pointed out - the Quark 123-2 head would work on a AA-2 body with 2x14500 Li-ion. However, the 123-2 head would be very dim on 2xAA cells - that head is rated for a higher voltage range. So effectively, you would loose support for anything but 2x14500 in that configuration.



It will also technically work with a single 14500, but not very well. I'm not quite sure why you would want 2x14500 when you could just as easily have 2xRCR123 though... :thinking:


----------



## KiwiMark

wyager said:


> It will also technically work with a single 14500, but not very well.



Why not very well? I have the 1 x AA Quark and it works pretty good on a 14500 cell, I think the 2 x AA uses the same head & tail, just a different body tube. For the 2 x AA I'd rather buy a 1 x AA body tube than muck around with a dummy cell though.


----------



## wyager

KiwiMark said:


> Why not very well? I have the 1 x AA Quark and it works pretty good on a 14500 cell, I think the 2 x AA uses the same head & tail, just a different body tube. For the 2 x AA I'd rather buy a 1 x AA body tube than muck around with a dummy cell though.



I'm talking about the 2x123 head, not the AA head. It's buck only, no boost, that means at lower voltages the light won't work.


----------



## KiwiMark

wyager said:


> I'm talking about the 2x123 head, not the AA head. It's buck only, no boost, that means at lower voltages the light won't work.



Ah, I was thinking of the 1 x 14500 instead of switching to the 2 x 123 head. If you want to use 1 x 14500 then the standard 1 x AA / 2 x AA head would be the one to use.


----------



## etc

Ultrafire 606B 2xAA.
Not sure if still relevant as it's from about 2007-2008 time frame.

Mine is modded with Seoul Emitter USV0H, properly heat-sinked (stock emitter isn't). Not sure what was there before the swap.

The runtime is not that good. 
It really needs knurling.
Kind of a semi-disposable light.
Beam quality is very nice. 
More compact than Minimag, feels smaller than Fenix.
Not remarkable in anyway except that the tailcap can take a CR2 cell and can screw directly into the bezel. Tiny light in that configuration with some awesome brightness and you can always go back to 2xAA.


----------



## fyrstormer

This review might benefit from the addition of a 2xAA Haiku, now that they are available. Granted, the price tag puts them out of reach of most, but if you can afford it, you'll get a long-running flashlight (90-some hours on low) that is upgradeable and virtually indestructible -- one owner even dropped his in a tank of acid by accident and it came out fine.


----------



## etc

This review could not possibly be complete without that new 2xAA Surefire.


----------



## 1anrm

For sure! Who's gonna donate one?


----------



## selfbuilt

etc said:


> This review could not possibly be complete without that new 2xAA Surefire.


Yeah, along with quite a few other newer 2xAA lights I don't have. 

Keep in mind this round-up thread is from Dec 2008. Although I added another 8 lights or so throughout 2009, it has not been updated this year. I frankly just haven't had time to update it.

I recommend people check my master list of reviews in my signature to find some more recent reviews. Here are some of the 2xAA lights I've tested since then:

Fenix LD10/LD20-R4 (XP-G R4) Reviews
EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review
ITP SA1, SA2, SC1, SC2 Round-Up Review (XP-E R2)
EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Reviews:


----------



## A[L]C

excellent review, very helpful indeed.

Thanks


----------



## baigarman36

Hi guys, I have a friend who is a LEO, and he needs a new light. I am certain that 2AA is going to be best, and he also said he likes the tight hot spot. Idealy a sigle mode with tight hot spot would be best, but if no sigle modes are available a tactical...


----------



## tandem

baigarman36 welcome to CPF!

Your question isn't getting much response because of where it is located -- you should avoid doing a general query like this tagged on to product reviews; instead post your query in a new thread located in the main LED Flashlights sub-forum and it'll get noticed by a great many more people.

You might also want to use the Google search feature at the top of every page, type in LEO and you'll find plenty of other similar queries to chew on as well.


----------



## sbdmn

Thanks for the great review - it's very helpful.
I own a Fenix LD20 and am very satisfied with its performance


----------



## selfbuilt

Glad you enjoyed it. Sorry these sorts of round-up threads are all out of date now. I just haven't had time to update them, with all the new lights coming in to test and review. 

For those interested in newer lights, I recommend you check out the individual reviews listed in my master list (in my signature below). These contain summary tables and runtime graphs comparing to other lights, allowing you compare across a range of models.


----------



## tacgearguy

Great review/comparison as always


----------



## Hawkman

Definite oldie, but goodie. Going to try to find an LD20 now.


----------



## ronjon201

I LOVE THIS THREAD!!! Amazing information and photo's, selfbuilt!!!
I am narrowing down my decision to buy the next, latest and greatest light, and I really like the quark AA2 tactical. However, I love the accessories available for the fenix LD and PD series, particularly the light diffuser that essentially turns your flashlight into a camplight. Does anyone know of a similar product for the quark AA2 tactical?


----------



## gokumura

Just wanted to say "THANKS" for all the great work that's been done reviewing these lights! I bought a Fenix LD20 and am just amazed at what this light puts out (along with other aircraft tech's here working LAX who always ask me "Who makes that flashlight?"). Just a question regarding the Fenix lights, what changes do the different versions encompass? Is it the electronics involved or ?? Thanks all...
G:wave:


----------



## selfbuilt

Glad you are all still enjoying the review, sorry I haven't been able to keep it updated. However, I recommend everyone just check the master review list in signature for lights they are interested in. My more recent reviews will have tables and runtimes that show how the light compares to those that came before it (i.e., in the same class).



gokumura said:


> Just a question regarding the Fenix lights, what changes do the different versions encompass? Is it the electronics involved or ?? Thanks all...


Within the same model, a number of changes can take place over time. The most common is the emitter, where Fenix upgrades to higher output bins of the same class. This may or may not trigger an official recognition of the change. More gradual are small tweaks to the build, reflector and circuit over time - most of these don't add/alter major functionality. Major changes to emitter class, circuit features or build tend to come out at periods when the model undergoes an explicit refresh. In those cases, it is worth looking at newer reviews that compare the new features to the older models.


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## RemcoM

selfbuilt said:


> Glad you are all still enjoying the review, sorry I haven't been able to keep it updated. However, I recommend everyone just check the master review list in signature for lights they are interested in. My more recent reviews will have tables and runtimes that show how the light compares to those that came before it (i.e., in the same class).
> 
> 
> Within the same model, a number of changes can take place over time. The most common is the emitter, where Fenix upgrades to higher output bins of the same class. This may or may not trigger an official recognition of the change. More gradual are small tweaks to the build, reflector and circuit over time - most of these don't add/alter major functionality. Major changes to emitter class, circuit features or build tend to come out at periods when the model undergoes an explicit refresh. In those cases, it is worth looking at newer reviews that compare the new features to the older models.



A man at my local flashlight/campingstore, says that the T25 can reach 300 meters beamdistance,

So he can sell it to me. 

Can i believe him, or not?


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## selfbuilt

RemcoM said:


> A man at my local flashlight/campingstore, says that the T25 can reach 300 meters beamdistance, Can i believe him, or not?


In a word, no.

I have updated my distance measures to conform with ANSI FL-1 standards, using a NIST-calibrated light meter. The Olight T25 tested here only does ~3500 cd. That translates to a beam distance of 118m. At 300m, the intensity of the beam would only be ~0.04 lux. That is so low as to be meaningless (i.e., the full moon is only 0.25 lux).


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## RemcoM

selfbuilt said:


> In a word, no.
> 
> I have updated my distance measures to conform with ANSI FL-1 standards, using a NIST-calibrated light meter. The Olight T25 tested here only does ~3500 cd. That translates to a beam distance of 118m. At 300m, the intensity of the beam would only be ~0.04 lux. That is so low as to be meaningless (i.e., the full moon is only 0.25 lux).



Im sorry for going off topic now for once,

but,

1 How much light is 0,04 lux at 300 meters distance of the T25 from olight? When i standing there at 300 meters, and you shining at me with the Olight T25?

2 How you calculate that?

3 How far do i need go ,to have the Fenix TK75, and the Olight X6 marauder, shining at 0,04 lux?

Remco


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## selfbuilt

RemcoM said:


> 1 How much light is 0,04 lux at 300 meters distance of the T25 from olight? When i standing there at 300 meters, and you shining at me with the Olight T25?
> 2 How you calculate that?


Beam distance (in meters) = square root of ([email protected] divided by lux intensity you want). You can find out more on my ANSI FL-1 page, as well as the flashlight Wiki ANSI FL-1 page.

My point previously was that 0.04 lux is meaningless - it's below the detection sensitivy of most light meters! It's ridiculous to think that the T25 could illuminate anything at that distance.



> 3 How far do i need go ,to have the Fenix TK75, and the Olight X6 marauder, shining at 0,04 lux?


You could calculate it above, but there's really no point. It's the same relative relationship as at the standard ANSI FL-1 beam distance to 0.25 lux: my T25 does 118m, my TK75 does 608m, and my Olight X6 does 710m.


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## RemcoM

selfbuilt said:


> Beam distance (in meters) = square root of ([email protected] divided by lux intensity you want). You can find out more on my ANSI FL-1 page, as well as the flashlight Wiki ANSI FL-1 page.
> 
> My point previously was that 0.04 lux is meaningless - it's below the detection sensitivy of most light meters! It's ridiculous to think that the T25 could illuminate anything at that distance.
> 
> 
> You could calculate it above, but there's really no point. It's the same relative relationship as at the standard ANSI FL-1 beam distance to 0.25 lux: my T25 does 118m, my TK75 does 608m, and my Olight X6 does 710m.



1 So, you have measured the TK75 and the Olight X6?

2 So, the x6 has 100 metres more throw than the TK75?

3 If i am in the dark at night, at 600/700 metres away from you, and you shine at me with the X6 and TK75 at me, do i light up a bit, and are things around me, trees,buildings, lit up a little?

Thank you for your nice help.

Remco


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## selfbuilt

RemcoM said:


> 1 So, you have measured the TK75 and the Olight X6?
> 2 So, the x6 has 100 metres more throw than the TK75?


Yes and yes.



> 3 If i am in the dark at night, at 600/700 metres away from you, and you shine at me with the X6 and TK75 at me, do i light up a bit, and are things around me, trees,buildings, lit up a little?


Not much. Put it this way - if it was pitch dark all around, you would be lit up by those lights at those distances to the same level as if it were a full moon out.


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## vianocka

Finally came across this post!! I was looking for exactly this kind of review. Keep em coming


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## selfbuilt

vianocka said:


> Finally came across this post!! I was looking for exactly this kind of review. Keep em coming


Glad you liked it, and my other reviews. Unfortunately, I have not had time to maintain these sorts of round-up reviews - they are just too time consuming, with all the individual reviews that I do. But I do keep an updated list of all my reviews - including sorted by battery type - on my www.flashlightreviews.ca website.

Oh, and :welcome:


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## RemcoM

selfbuilt said:


> Glad you liked it, and my other reviews. Unfortunately, I have not had time to maintain these sorts of round-up reviews - they are just too time consuming, with all the individual reviews that I do. But I do keep an updated list of all my reviews - including sorted by battery type - on my www.flashlightreviews.ca website.
> 
> Oh, and :welcome:



Hi Selfbuilt,

Can the Olight T25 light up trees at 360 meters distance?

Is it possible to see some illuminance?


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## Trevtrain

RemcoM said:


> Hi Selfbuilt,
> 
> Can the Olight T25 light up trees at 360 meters distance?
> 
> Is it possible to see some illuminance?



already answered in post #140 - in a word NO

your seller is exaggerating.


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## Ryp

RemcoM said:


> Hi Selfbuilt,
> 
> Can the Olight T25 light up trees at 360 meters distance?
> 
> Is it possible to see some illuminance?



I think the question you _should_ be asking is: Is the Olight T25 brighter than a car's headlights?


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## RemcoM

My seller, still holds on to say that (he owns also a T25) his T25, lights up trees at 360 meters distance.

He is not reliable i think.

Why does he continues say that?

Why does the olight T25 not illuminate trees at 300 meters plus distance?


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## kj2

RemcoM said:


> Why does he continues say that?
> 
> Why does the olight T25 not illuminate trees at 300 meters plus distance?


Why he keeps saying it? That's something you should ask him. Let him come with photos.
It doesn't reach 300mtrs because it doesn't have the output/reflector to do so.


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## dc38

RemcoM said:


> My seller, still holds on to say that (he owns also a T25) his T25, lights up trees at 360 meters distance.
> 
> He is not reliable i think.
> 
> Why does he continues say that?
> 
> Why does the olight T25 not illuminate trees at 300 meters plus distance?



You're asking us to speak on behalf of another person who is most likely either: purposely not telling the truth, or: is confused as to meters vs feet. Even with potential mods by V54, there is no reflectored light in this form factor that can hope to punch almost 1181 feet. Unless you have something with the output of an XML In the size of an xpe or xre, it is a currently unacheivable feat by small 2aa reflectored flashlights. 

Maybe if vinh dedomes and overdrives the LED the T25 might touch to 200 meters with an xpe.... Lets put this in perspective: 360 meters is 1182 feet. That's almost a quarter mile, and would require 32000 lux to barely touch the target. If I'm not mistaken, the original deft edc punched out 32000 lux with an aspheric. Stock small 2aa lights cannot hope to match a custom job.


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## RemcoM

But i go buy this light from my seller, because of its huge floodstyle.

I have seen nice video,s, and photos, and want a compact small floodlight, and this light delivers that.

I think a perfect light for look around my house.

I really like the small size of this light, and the nice floody style.

So, i give it a try.


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## SuLyMaN

An updated 2XAA roundup would be most welcome =)


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## opus360

SuLyMaN said:


> An updated 2XAA roundup would be most welcome =)



I was going to ask for one . I am interested in the 2xAA.


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## selfbuilt

opus360 said:


> I was going to ask for one . I am interested in the 2xAA.


Sorry, no immediate plans to do a modern 2xAA round-up - most of the activity lately has been in the 4xAA class.


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