# SolarForce vs SureFire Tailcaps



## Rawhide (Oct 12, 2011)

I heard that SolarForce tailcaps are way better than SureFires? Is this true? Why, what makes them better?


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## CheepSteal (Oct 12, 2011)

Not really. Just cheaper. At least for the S7 tactical Solarforce tailcap and the well proven Z41 Surefire tailcap. Although Solarforce tends to use HAIII whereas Surefire tends to use HAII which isn't as durable. I am talking about pure operation and reliability.
The quality for Solarforce is excellent for the price, and for the price you pay for Surefire, the quality doesn't increase linearly. 
Solarforce = high value.
Surefire = Go-to-war option.

Don't take this as bagging Solarforce, I love em!
Also, Solarforce tends to have a lot of variety, whereas Surefire doesn't have as much. 

Bottom line, Solarforce is "better" for the money you pay.


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## PCC (Oct 12, 2011)

I own Surefire Z41s, both stock and modified (McClicky mod), and Solarforce L2 reverse-clickies, both stock and modified, as well as Solarforce forward clickies. Do I have a favorite out of all of these tail caps? Not really. Do I prefer one over the other? Well, I prefer forward clickies and the traditional Solarforce tail cap is a reverse-clicky and that's why I've modified them. The Solarforce forward clickies are perfectly acceptable and, dare I say it, comparable to the McClicky modified Z41/L2 tail caps. The only negative to the Solarforce tail caps is that the threads are not anodized and you cannot lock out the light by unscrewing the TC a quarter turn like you can with a Z41.


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## Cypher_Aod (Oct 13, 2011)

My EDC, a Surefire C2 still has the stock HA Z41 because it means it can't get left on by accident.

On the other hand, my portable spot/searchlight, a modded Surefire L6 has a modded Solarforce L2P switch with a forward clicky. looks good, feels fine, works perfectly.

I wouldn't say that either are any "Better", Surefire tailcaps are somewhat better built but solarforce tailcaps are excellent value for money.


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## skyfire (Oct 14, 2011)

anybody know how many amps the solarforce forward clickies can handle?
i ask cause im thinking of getting a L2T, but want to use it with a XM-L drop-in.

Ive used a L2P reverse clicky before... but still prefer my McClickies.


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## leon2245 (Oct 14, 2011)

So you guys would rank the malkoff clicky tailcaps above either?


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## Erzengel (Oct 14, 2011)

skyfire said:


> anybody know how many amps the solarforce forward clickies can handle?
> i ask cause im thinking of getting a L2T, but want to use it with a XM-L drop-in.
> 
> Ive used a L2P reverse clicky before... but still prefer my McClickies.



Their newer Tailcaps (this includes the L2T) are rated for 3 Amps. This should be enough for an XM-L Drop-In. If not, the damage is not so huge.


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## PCC (Oct 14, 2011)

Even if you smoke the L2T tail cap guts you can swap in a McClicky with minimal mods.


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## HotWire (Oct 16, 2011)

I like to keep Surefire lights looking like Surefire lights. I've bought a lot of Z59 clickies. I've also modded many Z41s with McClickies. Both great. I have a few SolarForce products and find them excellent. I have had other clickies fail, but not Surefire or SolarForce. Go with the one you like.


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## Rawhide (Oct 16, 2011)

Thanks for the reply all. I got some new L2T and L2P, I found the lights very nice and decided to get L2T and L2P host only as I think I might need the tail caps and bezels. Based on your replies I think I'll get more SolarForce lights, my wallet cannot survive anymore SureFire parts and accessories anymore. Hehe.


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## skyfire (Oct 17, 2011)

PCC said:


> Even if you smoke the L2T tail cap guts you can swap in a McClicky with minimal mods.



thanks.

im assuming they changed the design? hopefully with the intent of being more McClicky compatible.


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## ElectronGuru (Oct 17, 2011)

The S7 is the only tailcap close enough in design to a z41 to be 'drop in' compatible. Others require adatations in and around the boot.


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## Tana (Oct 17, 2011)

Solarforce S10 (L2T tailcap) is 100% McClicky friendly... just unscrew fit ring from inside and replace the switch... nothing else necessary... I've upgraded all of mine as I love McClicky feel and reliability (have 5 S10's as I find them rather cool looking)...

Also, that S9 (I think) tailcap, from M6 with stainless steel crenelated end is also same design as S10 and one can swap switches in seconds, no modding needed... as a matter of fact, the fitting ring goes a little DEEPER when tighten over McClicky so it's possible to add another O-Ring on boot and make it closer to "flush" look, shortening the visual size of the whole flashlight...

I don't necessarily like Solarforce more than Surefire but I really like the fact that they have numerous different models that are REALLY affordable and then are easy to mod, grind, paint, etc...


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## PCC (Oct 17, 2011)

Hmm, when I swapped a McClicky into my L2T tail it wouldn't turn off because the ring was making contact with the part of the switch that needs to be kept separated from the rest of the switch.


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## Diablo_331 (Oct 18, 2011)

I'm running a Torchlab triple XPG in a L2X extended with two AW 2900s. It is my assumption that the reverse clicky on the L2X can handle up to 5 amps. Am I correct? 

I also have a L2T on the way for the triple XPG drop-in to be powered by two AW IMR 18350s. I understand that the forward clicky on the L2T will only handle 3 amps with possibly alot of resistance. Will the Oveready McClicky kit fit into the stock L2T forward clicky or not? If not, what modifications are needed? I'm seeing two different answers here.. Just trying to clear this up.


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## PCC (Oct 18, 2011)

Diablo_331 said:


> Will the Oveready McClicky kit fit into the stock L2T forward clicky or not? If not, what modifications are needed? I'm seeing two different answers here.. Just trying to clear this up.


No, the Oveready McClicky kit will not fit. The Oveready kit includes a brass adapter that allows the McClicky switch to fit into a Z41 tail cap that's been gutted. The L2T clicky is held in place with a reduced diameter locking ring so the brass adapter will not thread on far enough to allow the tail cap to even thread onto the end of a L2T flashlight body. To make a McClicky switch fit you take the L2T tail cap apart, ream out the inner diameter of the lock ring larger by about 0.04" or so, remove the button, flip it inside-out, cut the nub off, drop it back into the tail cap, drop the bare McClicky into the tail cap then drop in the lock ring and thread it on snug. Test it. If it turns on when you screw the cap on, try pinching the tail cap to see if the rubber button is pressing down on the McClicky button. If pinching the rubber button turns off the light then take it apart again and trim off more of that nub until it works. If the pinch test doesn't work then check to see if the switch is centered or not and center it if not and ream out the lock ring more if it is centered. Test it and keep reaming until it works correctly. Done.


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## Diablo_331 (Oct 18, 2011)

PCC said:


> No, the Oveready McClicky kit will not fit. The Oveready kit includes a brass adapter that allows the McClicky switch to fit into a Z41 tail cap that's been gutted. The L2T clicky is held in place with a reduced diameter locking ring so the brass adapter will not thread on far enough to allow the tail cap to even thread onto the end of a L2T flashlight body. To make a McClicky switch fit you take the L2T tail cap apart, ream out the inner diameter of the lock ring larger by about 0.04" or so, remove the button, flip it inside-out, cut the nub off, drop it back into the tail cap, drop the bare McClicky into the tail cap then drop in the lock ring and thread it on snug. Test it. If it turns on when you screw the cap on, try pinching the tail cap to see if the rubber button is pressing down on the McClicky button. If pinching the rubber button turns off the light then take it apart again and trim off more of that nub until it works. If the pinch test doesn't work then check to see if the switch is centered or not and center it if not and ream out the lock ring more if it is centered. Test it and keep reaming until it works correctly. Done.



Thank you for the explanation PCC! Seems easy enough to do with a dremel.


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## skyfire (Oct 18, 2011)

hmm... so will the Z41 tailcap work with the L2T body?
i dont have any solarforce hosts, but it was always my intention to use it with a Z41, and possibly a McClicky


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## Tana (Oct 19, 2011)

Hm... I have 5 L2T tailcaps, now all upgraded to McClicky... ONCE it happened to me that it was on all the time but after I wiggeled the switch inside a little bit, it didn't make any contact... nor it will since some water drops came out of threads once I thightened them down... all four work like a charm and I click the s*#t out of them all the time as I play with my lego creations all the time...

But I do agree that widening inside diameter of lock ring will avoid double contact forever...


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## JJay03 (Dec 10, 2011)

Tana said:


> Solarforce S10 (L2T tailcap) is 100% McClicky friendly... just unscrew fit ring from inside and replace the switch... nothing else necessary... I've upgraded all of mine as I love McClicky feel and reliability (have 5 S10's as I find them rather cool looking)...
> 
> Also, that S9 (I think) tailcap, from M6 with stainless steel crenelated end is also same design as S10 and one can swap switches in seconds, no modding needed... as a matter of fact, the fitting ring goes a little DEEPER when tighten over McClicky so it's possible to add another O-Ring on boot and make it closer to "flush" look, shortening the visual size of the whole flashlight...
> 
> I don't necessarily like Solarforce more than Surefire but I really like the fact that they have numerous different models that are REALLY affordable and then are easy to mod, grind, paint, etc...



Does the s10 with a mcClicky fit better then the S7? Could you take a pic of the s10 with Mcclicky on a surefire.


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## pinetree89 (Dec 11, 2011)

I have a Solarforce S7 tailcap, and I gotta say, it's just not that good. There's about a 2 or 3 degree sweet spot you have to have it tightened to in order to use the momentary on. If it's off that, no go. If you go past that the light either turns on, or simply pressure alone on the tailcap (not the button) will turn it on. Compared to the Z41 there's no comparison IMO. Solarforce didn't get the implementation of this correct IMO.

That said I'm generally a fan of the Solarforce stuff for the price. I have quite a few L2P hosts and enjoy them. Just avoid that S7 tailcap.


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## Tana (Dec 12, 2011)

I love S10... I now have 9 of them I think... also bought three S7's that I used with Oveready McClicky conversion kits but lately 2 are empty... they are just too short to be satisfied with the look on any host (aside from SUPER-OLD glossy L2M that only fits 16mm cells, S7 with OR McClicky fits PERFECT and it's the shortest host I have)...

Sorry but I'm unable to post any photos... :-(


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## kosPap (Dec 12, 2011)

PCC said:


> The only negative to the Solarforce tail caps is that the threads are not anodized and you cannot lock out the light by unscrewing the TC a quarter turn like you can with a Z41.



Not entirely true...The L2 tape switch tailcaps are anodized on the inside. But they have a 20mm button hole. Booties can be found from ShiningBeam

more on this old thread
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...FWD-Switch-Drop-in-%96-L2-FWD-Switch-Drop-ins


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## michiganstud (Jan 14, 2019)

Sorry for digging up an old thread, but relevant question....

I just got the new Sportac xhp35 HI dropin and have it in my Solarforce L2. The specs say that the tailcap should be 5+ amps. I know the Solarforce is only rated at a 3 amps.

1. Will this affect power to the lamp affecting performance/brightness?

2. Could this fry my tailcap when Im on duty with use? Should I put this in the Surefire 6P host?


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## archimedes (Jan 14, 2019)

michiganstud said:


> Sorry for digging up an old thread, but relevant question....
> 
> I just got the new Sportac xhp35 HI dropin and have it in my Solarforce L2. The specs say that the tailcap should be 5+ amps. I know the Solarforce is only rated at a 3 amps.
> 
> ...



Yes, and yes ... (more likely melt than fry, but you get my meaning)


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## vadimax (Jan 15, 2019)

I should say that Solarforce anodizing sucks. At least in my case. A simple comparison:

1. I have dropped a Surefire Fury on a concrete stairs from some 4 feet altitude and I had really carefully to inspect it just to discover a microscopic ding on its knurling.

2. A Solarforce light (exactly one of their most expensive tail caps):







has got a popping out ding just laying around. Hell knows how.


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## michiganstud (Jan 26, 2019)

michiganstud said:


> Sorry for digging up an old thread, but relevant question....
> 
> I just got the new Sportac xhp35 HI dropin and have it in my Solarforce L2. The specs say that the tailcap should be 5+ amps. I know the Solarforce is only rated at a 3 amps.
> 
> ...



Can anyone else weigh in? I got my Surefire 6P host, bored out for a 18650 cell. Haven't had a chance to test it because it needs to be bored out a bit more for the protected cell. I have to send it back to the seller.

Should this LED run better with a 5 amp switch? Does it work like that?


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## lightfooted (Feb 10, 2019)

michiganstud said:


> Can anyone else weigh in? I got my Surefire 6P host, bored out for a 18650 cell. Haven't had a chance to test it because it needs to be bored out a bit more for the protected cell. I have to send it back to the seller.
> 
> Should this LED run better with a 5 amp switch? Does it work like that?



No, that's not quite how it works. It's not so much that it will run better but rather it WILL run. Using a 3 amp switch will likely result in the switch itself burning up as though it were a fuse, upon your first activation of the light. I'm not certain exactly how long it will take to burn through the contacts of the lower-rated switch but it will happen.


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