# Armytek XHP-50 Headlamp 1600 lumen



## SubLGT

Armytek is showing a XHP50 equipped headlamp at Shot Show 2016. I believe it is rated 1600 lumens out the front. That should get toasty.

Going Gear has a video of it here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mlQZe1J7gg


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## gyzmo2002

"What is the beam distance (GG)? we don't have measured it yet (Armitek)...." 2:45

Always the same with Armitek. 🤔

Take a look at 4.23...That's I would like but I don't think it is for now.

Though these lights seem interesting.


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## scs

Dangling carrot on the end of a stick...


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## gyzmo2002

Their products are interesting but the problem is the quality and correctness of specifications.

After having seen this guy, I have my answer about specifications accurancy.


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## Tachead

Interesting. But, lets hope they give us more emitter options like Zebralight this year. That's what will draw in more customers imo. I would like to see that XHP50 powered Wizard with an XHP50 90+ CRI in either the 5000K version or the 4500K version myself. I would buy one of those for sure.


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## SubLGT

scs said:


> Dangling carrot on the end of a stick...



Next time, buy your Armytek from Going Gear. Did you hear what the GG person said in the video near the end? Armytek has been a _very_ reliable brand for them to sell, he claims.


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## gyzmo2002

SubLGT said:


> Armytek has been a _very_ reliable brand for them to sell, he claims.



I doubt he's telling the truth. I would be curious to see the number of returns regarding quality issues.


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## scs

SubLGT said:


> Next time, buy your Armytek from Going Gear. Did you hear what the GG person said in the video near the end? Armytek has been a _very_ reliable brand for them to sell, he claims.



2 Dobermann Pros, both defective, back to back, from Going Gear.
GG CS has been great though.


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## eraursls1984

I think you will be happy with their products if you don't have any expectations of the specs they give. I've been very disappointed with my Armytek product because it is not what they claimed on their spec sheet. The tint is amazing though (warm). I also love the matte black anodizing, but not sure how durable it is since I don't use it (doesn't have the mode I bought it for).


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## HorizontalHunter

gyzmo2002 said:


> Their products are interesting but the problem is the quality and correctness of specifications.



That is the reason I haven't bought one.

Bob


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## Tachead

Can you guys explain please?


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## SubLGT

At around 4:45 in the video it was interesting to hear Alex from Armytek say something like: "we need to improve our quality more and more" even though Marshall from GG was saying the quality was already extremely high.


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## gyzmo2002

SubLGT said:


> At around 4:45 in the video it was interesting to hear Alex from Armytek say something like: "we need to improve our quality more and more" even though Marshall from GG was saying the quality was already extremely high.



For once, I agree with armitek but it's been a long time that I hear this sentence. It's time to put it into practice.


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## HorizontalHunter

Tachead said:


> Can you guys explain please?



read some of the threads in the Armytek. I was looking at picking up a Dorberman until I read some of the threads.


Bob


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## Tachead

HorizontalHuntr said:


> read some of the threads in the Armytek. I was looking at picking up a Dorberman until I read some of the threads.
> 
> 
> Bob




K, thanks


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## gyzmo2002

HorizontalHuntr said:


> read some of the threads in the Armytek. I was looking at picking up a Dorberman until I read some of the threads.
> 
> 
> Bob



Just to be aware of that:

If you do, don't buy from Armitek website but from a reputable seller. If you have the misfortune to receive a lamp that has a problem, which it is, will make sure to satisfy you. Then he will negotiate with them. 

If you want a cool white lamp as advertised, it is better to communicate with him to check it before sending you. 

Because as I have seen recently, they have a wide range of Cool White. Other manufacturers will differentiate them (cw, nw) but it does not seem to be the case with Armitek.

The Dobermann Pro XP-L HI my seller has are all neutral and on the warmer side like the one I received. Two members in CPF, received a CW as advertised.

My Predator Pro Hi and Barracuda Pro Hi are cool white. That's what I expected to receive with my DP but it is not the case


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## HorizontalHunter

gyzmo2002 said:


> Just to be aware of that:
> 
> If you do, don't buy from Armitek website but from a reputable seller. If you have the misfortune to receive a lamp that has a problem, which it is, will make sure to satisfy you. Then he will negotiate with them.
> 
> If you want a cool white lamp as advertised, it is better to communicate with him to check it before sending you.
> 
> Because as I have seen recently, they have a wide range of Cool White. Other manufacturers will differentiate them (cw, nw) but it does not seem to be the case with Armitek.
> 
> The Dobermann Pro XP-L HI my seller has are all neutral and on the warmer side like the one I received. Two members in CPF, received a CW as advertised.
> 
> My Predator Pro Hi and Barracuda Pro Hi are cool white. That's what I expected to receive with my DP but it is not the case



Thanks for the heads up Gyzmo. I am going to hold off for now. Lots of companies go through growing pains when they grow too fast. Hopefully that is all it is. Time will tell.

bob


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## mickb

I think this market chased lumens and features too long. Seriously, I have old LED lights from almost a decade ago still going camping with me or rolling around in the back of a my truck for breakdowns. I found a box of my old toys and games from the 70's/80's which turned out to be still working, took ten year beatings back then, ressurected and seeing more service for a new generation. When these things broke its because they physically broke, aka dad ran over them with a car accidentally. Now you hold your hat to see if its still working by the time it gets to you from the production line.


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## Tachead

mickb said:


> I think this market chased lumens, features and gimmicks too long at the behest of white wall hunters and flashoholic fans. Seriously, I have large amount of toys and games made in the late 1970's which are still working, took ten year beatings back then, ressurected and seeing more service for a new generation. When these things broke its because they physically broke, aka dad ran over them with a car accidentally.
> 
> Modern manufacturing and ROI principles- Work out time to failure alongside warranty, engineer at least 100% failable part( Rubber coatings on a variety of tactical gear is a classic option as this can be predicted very closely. You can have top level european optics with 30 years warranty but the rubber armour goes in about 8-10 years without fail and is not warrantied) wide variance quality control-aka even if X% items will fail, the good reports on the other 100-x% will keep people buying and hoping they 'got a good one'. and x becomes a larger and larger number..
> 
> Sorry for the hijack/ rant, this boils my blood as its a deliberate business practice designed to keep us buying stuff over and over to maintain profits.Not to mention its wiping out the earths resources faster remaking stuff that should last 30 years instead of 3. What's the point of all the cost and hassle of recycling, why not just make ten times less stuff to start with? That's the real crime here .



I totally agree. We now live in a disposable society and its sad. Our future generations will pay for our generations poor attempts at fueling the economy. One day they will mine our garbage dumps because they will be the only resources left due to our wastefulness and excessive lifestyles.:shakehead


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## scs

mickb said:


> I think this market chased lumens, features and gimmicks too long at the behest of white wall hunters and flashoholic fans. Seriously, I have large amount of toys and games made in the late 1970's which are still working, took ten year beatings back then, ressurected and seeing more service for a new generation. When these things broke its because they physically broke, aka dad ran over them with a car accidentally.
> 
> Modern manufacturing and ROI principles- Work out time to failure alongside warranty, engineer at least 100% failable part( Rubber coatings on a variety of tactical gear is a classic option as this can be predicted very closely. You can have top level european optics with 30 years warranty but the rubber armour goes in about 8-10 years without fail and is not warrantied) wide variance quality control-aka even if X% items will fail, the good reports on the other 100-x% will keep people buying and hoping they 'got a good one'. and x becomes a larger and larger number..
> 
> Sorry for the hijack/ rant, this boils my blood as its a deliberate business practice designed to keep us buying stuff over and over to maintain profits.Not to mention its wiping out the earths resources faster remaking stuff that should last 30 years instead of 3. What's the point of all the cost and hassle of recycling, why not just make ten times less stuff to start with? That's the real crime here .



Well said, sir!
We think along the same lines, as you can tell by my sig line.


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## mickb

scs said:


> Well said, sir!
> We think along the same lines, as you can tell by my sig line.



Thanks fellas, I actually toned down my original post before you guys quoted me. Did not want to over-rant the OP's thread. Glad there are like minded folks on this subject.


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## ArmyTek

Thank you, guys, for creating the thread and discussing our interview and lights here.

*Yes, 1600 OTF lumen for Wizard.
*
We haven`t measured beam distance before shot show.

But we showed a multitool that has great specifications. We have shown the features that other manufacturers do not have at the moment.


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## gyzmo2002

scs said:


> 2 Dobermann Pros, both defective, back to back, from Going Gear.
> GG CS has been great though.



What problems you had with your two Dobermann Pros?


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## Aldiggi

So far so good as far as My Armytek purchases goes. I have been very happy with mine but I just wanted to mention one thing. Flashlight manufacturers should seriously take their products seriously. The majority of us collect flashlights but a huge number of us count on our lights very much. So if there is one feature I count on the most it is dependability!!!! I want to be 100% sure that when I pull out my light that it will turn on!! Flashlight manufacturers are now in a spec war race and every year it will be something new. Just like cell phones, TVs and all other electronics. Haha sucks for me cause my wallet doesn't like this but it is what it is. Makes it exciting to anticipate what's next. Anyways hope you guys love your Armytek lights as much as I do. I for sure depend my life on it every night while at work. It works full time with me and I hope she will hold up. Take care guys.


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## LessDark

Is there any hope for a MT-G2 version? 
​


ArmyTek said:


> Thank you, guys, for creating the thread and discussing our interview and lights here.
> 
> *Yes, 1600 OTF lumen for Wizard.
> *
> We haven`t measured beam distance before shot show.
> 
> But we showed a multitool that has great specifications. We have shown the features that other manufacturers do not have at the moment.


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## Tachead

ArmyTek said:


> Thank you, guys, for creating the thread and discussing our interview and lights here.
> 
> *Yes, 1600 OTF lumen for Wizard.
> *
> We haven`t measured beam distance before shot show.
> 
> But we showed a multitool that has great specifications. We have shown the features that other manufacturers do not have at the moment.



Max lumens is not the most desirable quality people want in a headlamp though. That is what some of you manufactures dont get. Rarely do I need anywhere near 1600 lumens out of my headlamp. Emitter options and quality(Tint, beam quality(lack of tint shift and lens options), colour temperature, and CRI(the higher the better) are far more important. As is the UI(must have moonlight and instant direct access to high and moonlight, exc.) and quality control/durability/reliability(many use their lights for mission critical uses where a failure could have dire results or even be life threatening). Customer service is very important also. 

I suggest you guys(Armytek) stop trying to best everyone in max lumens and work harder on these things. There have been some serious issues with your quality control, customer service, and you offer a very limited selection of emitter and lens options. To compete with companies like Zebralight, this is what needs to improve imo.


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## ArmyTek

LessDark said:


> Is there any hope for a MT-G2 version?


No, MT-G2 is outdated.
XHP-50 is much better, approximately it gives 300 lumen higher. As we are doing our Wizard now


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## ArmyTek

Tachead said:


> Max lumens is not the most desirable quality people want in a headlamp though. That is what some of you manufactures dont get. Rarely do I need anywhere near 1600 lumens out of my headlamp. Emitter options and quality(Tint, beam quality(lack of tint shift and lens options), colour temperature, and CRI(the higher the better) are far more important. As is the UI(must have moonlight and instant direct access to high and moonlight, exc.) and quality control/durability/reliability(many use their lights for mission critical uses where a failure could have dire results or even be life threatening). Customer service is very important also.
> 
> I suggest you guys(Armytek) stop trying to best everyone in max lumens and work harder on these things. There have been some serious issues with your quality control, customer service, and you offer a very limited selection of emitter and lens options. To compete with companies like Zebralight, this is what needs to improve imo.



If you face any problem with our service center or quality control - feel free to write us or call us. Thank you for your thoughts, I have send it to our technical department.


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## mickb

Guys is there is niche for a maker who does not succumb to the requirement of the UI/Lumen/Mode race?

I mean we have Elzetta/Malkoff/surefire at one end with conservative options and ultimate reliability and all the military customers.

Then we have 25 different brands competing for chasing lumens/modes at the expense of reliability for everyone else.

Is there a place then for another mid priced milspec light out there? Like a competitor at the streamlight level?

Minimal modes, Sensible output, tough as hell, models that don't change year to year, aimed as duty customers and people who want reliability.Hell you guys are over half way there- you already have potted electronics and a name like 'Armytek' . 

Just my 2 cents worth...


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## gyzmo2002

ArmyTek said:


> If you face any problem with our service center or quality control - feel free to write us or call us. Thank you for your thoughts, I have send it to our technical department.




It looks like there's a lot of emotion when we see the name Armitek. I think there are many people who would buy your products but do not want to take the chance to pick up with a faulty one or beyond their expectation because of a lack of quality control and correctness of specifications.

When quality control is not there, it is not long that people are informed. That must be why when we contacted you about a problem, you asked us to keep it private if you suspect that it could be broadcast on the forums.

When you have nothing to hide... People need to be informed before buying a product and that's why they are here.

Before having a problem with my last purchase of an Armitek flashlight, I had a different opinion, but since I had to negotiate with your customer service and having read a lot about you, I changed my mind.

Now, it'll be more difficult to trust one of your product. The consumer is always right. In your case, it seems the opposite. 

It's too bad for you because there are other companies who do all they can to satisfy their customers. They understood that if you make a dissatisfied client, you risk losing 100 with the media today.


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## MX421

gyzmo2002 said:


> It looks like there's a lot of emotion when we see the name Armitek. I think there are many people who would buy your products but do not want to take the chance to pick up with a faulty one or beyond their expectation because of a lack of quality control and correctness of specifications.
> 
> When quality control is not there, it is not long that people are informed. That must be why when we contacted you about a problem, you asked us to keep it private if you suspect that it could be broadcast on the forums.
> 
> When you have nothing to hide... People need to be informed before buying a product and that's why they are here.
> 
> Before having a problem with my last purchase of an Armitek flashlight, I had a different opinion, but since I had to negotiate with your customer service and having read a lot about you, I changed my mind.
> 
> Now, it'll be more difficult to trust one of your product. The consumer is always right. In your case, it seems the opposite.
> 
> It's too bad for you because there are other companies who do all they can to satisfy their customers. They understood that if you make a dissatisfied client, you risk losing 100 with the media today.



+1

It seems at every junction there are revelations that seem to refute any claim by Armytek. A good example of this is the company claim to being Canadian when everything comes from China. I remember someone posting on here that the address was a townhome instead of a factory or even a office. If we the consumer do not trust your company, we will not buy your product. Its too bad really, because the products i have i really like allot. Even I've had bad experiences though and have had to send back a product or two.


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## marsalla

I will try to remain objective regarding Armytek brand but overall I feel this maker has major design and quality control issues. I currently own two Armytek lights; one i love and one is total junk. I have returned two armytek headlamps due to due to faulty voltage regulation which made one not run on regular AA batteries and one run on 14500 batteries. And yes I know how to put them in modes to read the voltage. I have a partner AA light which will only run on IMR batteries as long as the voltage is high enough. Overall I do not trust this brand will not buy any more of their products. Customer service is a joke unless I am the first person who they asked to send a light back to china for warranty issues. In closing I would pass on this until they get their heads out of their bottoms.


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## scs

marsalla said:


> I will try to remain objective regarding Armytek brand but overall I feel this maker has major design and quality control issues. I currently own two Armytek lights; one i love and one is total junk. I have returned two armytek headlamps due to due to faulty voltage regulation which made one not run on regular AA batteries and one run on 14500 batteries. And yes I know how to put them in modes to read the voltage. I have a partner AA light which will only run on IMR batteries as long as the voltage is high enough. Overall I do not trust this brand will not buy any more of their products. Customer service is a joke unless I am the first person who they asked to send a light back to china for warranty issues. In closing I would pass on this until they get their heads out of their bottoms.



I, too, am a member of the disappointed-with-and don't trust-Armytek club.
But it seems membership is low, and enough folks keep buying to keep AT in business, so if Armytek is smart, it will improve, before they lose even those who are faithful to them without question. That should be good for everyone.


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## Lumencrazy

It takes a long time to build a reputation and an instant to completely ruin it.


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## Devon

I have a few of their products and would recommend them to a friend....no hesitation. 

No idea what their customer service is like, I've never needed it.


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## Tachead

Devon said:


> I have a few of their products and would recommend them to a friend....no hesitation.
> 
> No idea what their customer service is like, I've never needed it.



You are one of the lucky ones. The forums and youtube have been riddled with constant issues, inconsistencies, and problems with Armytek products. I really hope they are just working out the bugs(as they are fairly new to the market) and will improve because they have some great ideas and make a nice product when you get a good one. It sounds like they are trying from some of their recent interviews.


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## scs

Tachead said:


> You are one of the lucky ones. The forums and youtube have been riddled with constant issues, inconsistencies, and problems with Armytek products. I really hope they are just working out the bugs(as they are fairly new to the market) and will improve because they have some great ideas and make a nice product when you get a good one. It sounds like they are trying from some of their recent interviews.



If I were the head of the company and had a sincere intent to become a reputable manufacturer and an innovator in the flashlight business,
I'd be open and honest and disclose to the public the reasons behind the defects and failures, and what measures are in place and would be put into place to minimize or eliminate them.


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## MX421

gyzmo2002 said:


> When you have nothing to hide... People need to be informed before buying a product and that's why they are here.



Gyzmo2, isn't Armytek down the street from you? They are a Canadian company after all...:thinking:


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## scs

Just dangling that carrot on the end of the stick and enticing customers with "upgrades" to distract them from persisitent, unsolved quality issues, is not a good, sustainable business practice. Then again, there's a sucker born every minute. Perhaps it can be viable...


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## gyzmo2002

MX421 said:


> Gyzmo2, isn't Armytek down the street from you? They are a Canadian company after all...:thinking:



https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/397716

Post 84 and later.

I need a plane to go there lol...

Since it is Chinese New Year, I resolved to calm me regarding Armitek .... I do not know how long it will last 🙂


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## MX421

scs said:


> I, too, am a member of the disappointed-with-and don't trust-Armytek club.
> But it seems membership is low, and enough folks keep buying to keep AT in business, so if Armytek is smart, it will improve, before they lose even those who are faithful to them without question. That should be good for everyone.



I am definitely not faithful to them without question, but, like Devon, the lights i have are very good at what they are designed to do (Barracuda, Predator and a used, ie vetted Viking). I've had one issue with the most recent online purchase I made, but luckily i purchased from a dealer who had wonderful customer service (illumn) who took care of the issue (via refund). Prior to that, I ordered once directly from Armytek, and am so thankful those products were okay. Like Gyzmo2, i have issues with the bold claim that they are a Canadian Company, yet they ship to you directly from China and you have to return "warranty" items to China (at the Customer cost). As i knock on my laminate desk, I've not had this happen to me, but the reputation makes me think twice or more every time i think they might have a product i'm interested in. Even so, i really like the products i have as they work very well. Quite the dilemma as i contemplate a Wizard Pro with a warm tint...




gyzmo2002 said:


> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/397716
> 
> Post 84 and later.
> 
> I need a plane to go there lol..


Yes, I've seen the street view pictures of their address. I guess they manage out of a townhome/condo. I guess they have a point that they are registered in Canada. A lot of companies like the one i work for registers their ships in Panama, even though they have no office presence there whatsoever.



gyzmo2002 said:


> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/397716Since it is Chinese New Year, I resolved to calm me regarding Armitek .... I do not know how long it will last 🙂



You've gone a whole month, you should be proud .


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## scs

MX421 said:


> ... I've had one issue with the most recent online purchase I made, but luckily i purchased from a dealer who had wonderful customer service (illumn) who took care of the issue (via refund).



I wonder if that's why AT prime models are being unloaded at significant discounts over at Illumn...

Anyways, thanks for your input.


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## gyzmo2002

MX421 said:


> You've gone a whole month, you should be proud .


 
It's already over, I think.

When I see the Canadian flag on their site, it makes me furious.

The representative of Armytek did not seem like my intervention in this thread. Still, I was just answering a question ... since I'm friendly, I told him subtly, even though, I am a short-tempered. lol. 

it's just a Sales Representative, he cannot do much. Poor him. 

Member: Hello Armytek, I have a problem and I have sent many emails to [email protected]....

Armytek: Happy Chinese Year. If you have other question, feel free to contact [email protected].

Hourra....


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## rickypanecatyl

mickb said:


> I think this market chased lumens and features too long. Seriously, I have old LED lights from almost a decade ago still going camping with me or rolling around in the back of a my truck for breakdowns. I found a box of my old toys and games from the 70's/80's which turned out to be still working, took ten year beatings back then, ressurected and seeing more service for a new generation. When these things broke its because they physically broke, aka dad ran over them with a car accidentally. Now you hold your hat to see if its still working by the time it gets to you from the production line.





Tachead said:


> I totally agree. We now live in a disposable society and its sad. Our future generations will pay for our generations poor attempts at fueling the economy. One day they will mine our garbage dumps because they will be the only resources left due to our wastefulness and excessive lifestyles.:shakehead



I agree too! My dad has an old chrome flashlight he keeps under the stairs that my grandpa gave him and it still works... it's amazing how fast you fly thru 50,000 LED emitter hours these days!

The only problem with Armytech is their stuff breaks easily... and then the only way they fix it is if you publicly call them out on this site! I also agree with the others though the GG's customer service is excellent and makes a good pair when buying cheap flashlights.


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## SubLGT

Received email today from Andrew&Amanda.com that this headlamp will be available in 3 weeks.


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## Woods Walker

gyzmo2002 said:


> It's already over, I think.
> 
> When I see the Canadian flag on their site, it makes me furious.
> 
> The representative of Armytek did not seem like my intervention in this thread. Still, I was just answering a question ... since I'm friendly, I told him subtly, even though, I am a short-tempered. lol.
> 
> it's just a Sales Representative, he cannot do much. Poor him.
> 
> Member: Hello Armytek, I have a problem and I have sent many emails to [email protected]....
> 
> Armytek: Happy Chinese Year. If you have other question, feel free to contact [email protected].
> 
> Hourra....



LOL! :laughing:


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## gyzmo2002

Woods Walker said:


> LOL! :laughing:



I remember this one lol[emoji23]


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## dave101

I wonder if we will undergo the "Pre-Production" fiasco we endured with the with the Dobermann? Let's hope not.


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## wormyian

ArmyTek said:


> No, MT-G2 is outdated.
> XHP-50 is much better, approximately it gives 300 lumen higher. As we are doing our Wizard now [/QUO
> 
> i will have to try the warm one on this new torch i currently use a acebeam H10 as it workd really nice looking at the sand as it has a warm tint is this new cree much better light quality than MT-G2?


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## Chaitanya

The light has been announced its 2300 Lumens now. I never thought the headlamps will be in lumens race like regular torches. 
https://www.armytek.com/be-the-first-to-say-wow.html


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## degarb

I don't think it is just a lumen race. What I have seen is a widening of beam pattern that gets too wide (cant see details at 2 meters for inspection, can see too far down the trail), then the lumen needing to catch back up so you have the lux needed to see the darn stuff. Then, another beam widening--without regard to area=pi x radius squared (same principle as inverse square) law taken into account, for the needed exponential lumens necessary. There is a big difference in amount of light needed for a 8 degree reflector and the 15 degrees needed by the eye cones. Then, there is a whole crowd that loves super wide hotspots (good for reading, navigating at 2 mile per hour, camping), not realizing you need a butt load of lumens and batteries to support a reasonable lux for that big butt or pure hotspot.

Yes, we all agree that "any light on head" is better than no light. Which is fine if you are just trying to see in the dark (Mythbusters concluded 1/4 lux needed to get around in the pitch black "tomb"-which means one wax candle is 4x more light than anyone needs.). Even an improvement for biking, or white wall hunting. Just not optimal. 

300 lux (MB again) is minimum for reading, 1000 minimum surface lux for detail inspection work. (So, a 1000 candela should be bumped up to 4000 for 2 meter inspection-8000 candela at 45 degrees.) The lumens for xxx lux go exponentially too as you widen that hotspot. Exponential, on top of exponential. And you have the weight and heat limitation of the headlamp formfactor to consider on top of the consideration for useful runtime to fill the daily work day length.


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## HorizontalHunter

Chaitanya said:


> The light has been announced its 2300 Lumens now. I never thought the headlamps will be in lumens race like regular torches.
> https://www.armytek.com/be-the-first-to-say-wow.html



Wow for sure. But what are the run times for the different modes.

Bob


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## gyzmo2002

HorizontalHuntr said:


> Wow for sure. But what are the run times for the different modes.
> 
> Bob



Turbo2 = 2300 (1h), Turbo1 = 1250lm (1h40min), 500lm (4h10min),210lm (10h40мin), 40lm (50h), 7lm (12d), 2lm (40d), 0.25lm (200d), Strobe3: 10Hz, Turbo2, 2h; Strobe2: 1Hz, Turbo2, 3.5h; Strobe2: 1Hz, Main2, 35h

https://www.armytek.com/products/fl...armytek-wizard-pro-v3-xhp50-white-silver.html

The Wizard thread. For the XHP50 start at #97: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/397737


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## Tachead

Chaitanya said:


> The light has been announced its 2300 Lumens now. I never thought the headlamps will be in lumens race like regular torches.
> https://www.armytek.com/be-the-first-to-say-wow.html



Keep in mind the spec is not out the front lumens.

Me neither, very seldom does anyone need anywhere near that high of an output from a headlamp. O, the lumen race:shakehead. I bet the output drops extremely fast both from heat and from cell/voltage sag. Not to mention the short runtimes on a single cell. This kind of output would be much better suited to a headlamp with remote multi cell capabilities as well as larger body with better heatsinking imo. Companies are getting a bit ridiculous with these designs imo. I wonder if this comes with Armytek's usual great quality control and "no hassle warranty"


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## gyzmo2002

Good reasons why I'm on the fence at this moment. Heat and runtime on the highest mode for this tiny light. We will not use this light on a icepack on the head. 🙂


----------



## KeepingItLight

degarb said:


> I don't think it is just a lumen race ...



I don't mind big lumens. Those are just turbo modes. They are fine to have in any flashlight. Don't make the mistake of thinking of your flashlight/headlamp in terms of those numbers. 

I tend to categorize my flashlights according to the outputs they can sustain for extended periods. Thus, my *ZebraLight SC62w* is not a 930-lumen flashlight, even though that is the output it produces on its highest mode. Instead, I view the SC62w as a 500-lumen flashlight, or less, which can hold that level for around 90 minutes. 

With this perspective, it is important to me that mode spacing be good at the levels that are sustainable. I don't just want 500 lumens, I want to be able to select a variety of outputs and runtimes at levels below that, starting with something in the single-digit area.

Given the small size of the *Armytek Wizard Pro v3*, I think we can expect an analogous result. Sustainable output is probably closer to 500 lumens than any quadruple-digit figure.

Having a turbo boost that takes me to 2300 lumens, or ten thousand or a million, is fine by me. :devil:




degarb said:


> What I have seen is a widening of beam pattern ...



Armytek is reporting a 70-degree hot-spot for this TIR-based light!


----------



## scs

KeepingItLight said:


> I don't mind big lumens. Those are just turbo modes. They are fine to have in any flashlight. Don't make the mistake of thinking of your flashlight/headlamp in terms of those numbers.
> 
> I tend to categorize my flashlights according to the outputs they can sustain for extended periods. Thus, my *ZebraLight SC62w* is not a 930-lumen flashlight, even though that is the output it produces on its highest mode. Instead, I view the SC62w as a 500-lumen flashlight, or less, which can hold that level for around 90 minutes.
> 
> With this perspective, it is important to me that mode spacing be good at the levels that are sustainable. I don't just want 500 lumens, I want to be able to select a variety of outputs and runtimes at levels below that, starting with something in the single-digit area.
> 
> Given the small size of the Armytek Wizard Pro v3, I think we can expect an analogous result. Sustainable output is probably closer to 500 lumens that any quadruple-digit figure.
> 
> Having a turbo boost that takes me to 2300 lumens, or ten thousand or a million, is fine by me. :devil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Armytek is reporting a 70 degree hot-spot for this TIR-based light!



I think the same way and look for the same things.

Wonder if that 70 degree beam will remain the same or just hasn't been updated:


----------



## HorizontalHunter

gyzmo2002 said:


> Turbo2 = 2300 (1h), Turbo1 = 1250lm (1h40min), 500lm (4h10min),210lm (10h40мin), 40lm (50h), 7lm (12d), 2lm (40d), 0.25lm (200d), Strobe3: 10Hz, Turbo2, 2h; Strobe2: 1Hz, Turbo2, 3.5h; Strobe2: 1Hz, Main2, 35h
> 
> https://www.armytek.com/products/fl...armytek-wizard-pro-v3-xhp50-white-silver.html
> 
> The Wizard thread. For the XHP50 start at #97: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/397737



Not too shabby. Thanks for posting the run times Gizmo.

Bob


----------



## WigglyTheGreat

This being a new light, I'm kind of disappointed in the runtimes actually. When I look at the lower levels and compared it to runtimes on my Zebralight H600w MkII they end up not being any better. Considering how long the Zebralight H600 Mk II's have been out, the conclusion is Zebralight makes more efficient lights. Also please give us OTF output readings not LED. I briefly considered the Armytek, but after seeing the specs of it I will be waiting on the next Zebralight H600w MkIII to see how it compares. I am also disappointed in the mode spacing on this light. I would like to see a mode in between 40 lumen and 210 lumen. I use the 65 lumen setting on the zebralight a lot, but something in the 60-100 lumen mode would be nice from the Armytek. I don't care too much for using 1,000 plus lumen settings for a headlamp, I mainly use 330 lumen and below on my Zebra and enjoy the solid runtimes it gives at those levels. I also have concerns over build quality of from Armytek. I have the Predator Pro XPL HI "Special Editions" which has an off center LED.


----------



## scs

WigglyTheGreat said:


> This being a new light, I'm kind of disappointed in the runtimes actually. When I look at the lower levels and compared it to runtimes on my Zebralight H600w MkII they end up not being any better. Considering how long the Zebralight H600 Mk II's have been out, the conclusion is Zebralight makes more efficient lights. Also please give us OTF output readings not LED. I briefly considered the Armytek, but after seeing the specs of it I will be waiting on the next Zebralight H600w MkIII to see how it compares. I am also disappointed in the mode spacing on this light. I would like to see a mode in between 40 lumen and 210 lumen. I use the 65 lumen setting on the zebralight a lot, but something in the 60-100 lumen mode would be nice from the Armytek. I don't care too much for using 1,000 plus lumen settings for a headlamp, I mainly use 330 lumen and below on my Zebra and enjoy the solid runtimes it gives at those levels. I also have concerns over build quality of from Armytek. I have the Predator Pro XPL HI "Special Editions" which has an off center LED.



With the exception of their increased max output, albeit on a short thermal leash, and a more even beam profile, except the HI, the MK 3s, too, do not offer much if any improvements in run times. For some, they're the next great thing; for others, they are merely changes for change's sake. Different bait for different fish.


----------



## SubLGT

Will the XHP-50 output be cool white? Warm white? Neutral white? I could not find the answer at Armytek.com.


----------



## jorn

WigglyTheGreat said:


> This being a new light, I'm kind of disappointed in the runtimes actually. When I look at the lower levels and compared it to runtimes on my Zebralight H600w MkII they end up not being any better.


Boosting up the voltage to 6V, does not come for free. Buck drivers will always be more efficient than boost.


----------



## LumenToro

As per their website they are already selling both a Cool White and a Warm version.
I ordered mine (warm version) two weeks ago. I was told yesterday that it will ship this coming week.
Since I chose snail mail shipment it will still take me 3 weeks or so to receive.


They did apologized for not shipping it earlier.

The updated runtime now listed on the website is a tremendous improvement for my all night use case.


----------



## LumenToro

They just shipped mine - Will take a while to sail here but it is on the way as they promised


----------



## Lazyspacetruck

Goinggear has the warm version in stock. It's weirdly hard to find on their site but I have confirmation that they shipped me one today. I should have it tomorrow or the next day from Georgia.


----------



## SubLGT

Thanks to LumenToro and Lazyspacetruck for being the beta-testers


----------



## gyzmo2002

SubLGT said:


> Thanks to LumenToro and Lazyspacetruck for being the beta-testers



And ShishouMatt on another thread🙂


----------



## highenergyted

gyzmo2002 said:


> And ShishouMatt on another thread��



I'll send you a free warm one to test if you like.

The light has no differential marking on it from any other wizard and comes with no instructions.

The grease is made in the USA!


----------



## highenergyted

I'm finding this light difficult to get going to 2000 plus armytek lumens for whatever short time it can accomplish that. 

The lights were delivered with no instructions. 

For other wizard users please comment
As per instruction from the website. Using protected 18650 the light didn't work so I assume I need to select they battery type ... 
I run through the modes available . Switch off. Click it again rapidly. If I'm lucky it flashes 3x per second then I try and give it a one click but still end up in either 3 or 7 available lighting modes?

Any help?


----------



## clemence

I agree with you guys about all the bad AT customer service that must be improved ASAP.
To individual owners AT customer service is bad and nerve testing. But to wholesale buyers/dealers they really take care of them. Maybe that's why GG said AT is the most reliable company to deal with. Tried to become a semi dealer of several flashlight brands for the last one year here after a huge purchase for a mining company. So far Armytek and Xtar have the best customer service among other brands I sell. Eventhough I did all the dirty job for the clients =(.
The morale is to buy only from reputable dealers, NOT directly from the manufacturer online shop website. Leave all the hassle to the dealers.
Also to minimize any possible disappointment, the rule of thumb is to multiply 80% of the claimed specification.

As for Armytek:
- Please "bin" the product more careful. The color variations are just too wide. Until I can buy a decent colorimeter to re-label all the products I sell, I can only say "greenish cool white", "purplish warm white", or ... "sunset yellow behind a green spectacle" to all the clients who ask about the color tint.


----------



## LumenToro

I sincerely hope that my protected 3400mA 18650 work on mine - my headlamp still on its way through the South China Sea. In my case the protection circuit is rated up to 4.5A continuous, which given the published runtime of about 1h for 2000 lumens should not trigger battery over-current protection (not that I plan run mine more that 30s at that level but surely I don't want it to trip the protection in the middle of a dangerous river crossing in the mountains!)

What was the sustained current rating for your battery protection? Which brand were you using?

I don't want unprotected batteries on my head!



highenergyted said:


> I'm finding this light difficult to get going to 2000 plus armytek lumens for whatever short time it can accomplish that.
> 
> The lights were delivered with no instructions.
> 
> For other wizard users please comment
> As per instruction from the website. Using protected 18650 the light didn't work so I assume I need to select they battery type ...
> I run through the modes available . Switch off. Click it again rapidly. If I'm lucky it flashes 3x per second then I try and give it a one click but still end up in either 3 or 7 available lighting modes?
> 
> Any help?


----------



## clemence

highenergyted said:


> I'm finding this light difficult to get going to 2000 plus armytek lumens for whatever short time it can accomplish that.
> 
> The lights were delivered with no instructions.
> 
> For other wizard users please comment
> As per instruction from the website. Using protected 18650 the light didn't work so I assume I need to select they battery type ...
> I run through the modes available . Switch off. Click it again rapidly. If I'm lucky it flashes 3x per second then I try and give it a one click but still end up in either 3 or 7 available lighting modes?
> 
> Any help?



Please do the quick standard tests first:
1. Use another battery known to be good, preferably with good unprotected battery. This happened to me when using Ultra(fiyeh) batteries. Later found it's a recycled battery company. But even a good protected battery from a good company could be ruined if you drop it hard or just simply force fit it in a too short flashlight. Usually people damaged the PCB at the negative pole.

2. Check contact point at the end of the tail cap thread and also the spring contact too. Sometimes it's just dirty. Wizard would give erratic operation if the PCB contact (where it should touch the battery tube end) is dirty with non electrically conductive materials. I did mine with saw dust once.

3. Check the battery voltage, should be between 3,6 - 4,35 Volt for 18650. I don't recommend to use CR123 in this high wattage Wizard.

4. Do the tail cap current test. To get approximately 2300 LED lumens a J4 bin 6/12 volt XHP50 will require 17-18 watt of power, *more* wattage if it's warm/high CRI version. Assuming the driver efficiency is 90% thus the input power would be 18,7 - 19,8 watt. This translate to 5,19 - 5,5 A requirement when using a 18650 at 3,6 volt. Higher voltage as in freshly charged battery would decrease the current.

Some protected 18650 should be fine up to 7A depending on model. But some are limited to only 4A.

Post the results, perhaps those electronic/flashlight wizards here in CPF could help you better. I can't help you further since I plan to buy it 6 months later and my electronic knowledge is just based on wikipedia (now plus the CPF). By the way, thanks for being our Guinea pig though :thumbsup: :thumbsup:​


----------



## gyzmo2002

The Armytek Wizard Pro v3 XHP50 (White) Silver is out of stock now. I hope it's not because of issue...


----------



## scs

clemence said:


> I agree with you guys about all the bad AT customer service that must be improved ASAP.
> To individual owners AT customer service is bad and nerve testing. But to wholesale buyers/dealers they really take care of them. Maybe that's why GG said AT is the most reliable company to deal with. Tried to become a semi dealer of several flashlight brands for the last one year here after a huge purchase for a mining company. So far Armytek and Xtar have the best customer service among other brands I sell. Eventhough I did all the dirty job for the clients =(.
> The morale is to buy only from reputable dealers, NOT directly from the manufacturer online shop website. Leave all the hassle to the dealers.
> Also to minimize any possible disappointment, the rule of thumb is to multiply 80% of the claimed specification.
> 
> As for Armytek:
> - Please "bin" the product more careful. The color variations are just too wide. Until I can buy a decent colorimeter to re-label all the products I sell, I can only say "greenish cool white", "purplish warm white", or ... "sunset yellow behind a green spectacle" to all the clients who ask about the color tint.



I bought from a reputable dealer. They sent out a replacement for my first light that failed after 30 days. When the replacement in turn failed, they did not offer a replacement, a refund, or store credit, but to send the light off for repairs, so off it went. I've been waiting for it to come back for 4 MONTHS and counting. So unless dealers always offer direct replacement, the wait and uncertainty can be just as bad as dealing with AT directly.


----------



## Lou Minescence

I got a Wizard Pro V3 XHP50 warm Yesterday. To my surprise the XHP50 Wizard says it can take 2 CR123's or an 18650 battery on the body of the light. The XHP50 Wizard is very battery sensitive on both Turbo modes and Strobes. So far I can only reliably run my light on the NCR18650GA unprotected batteries I purchased from Zebralight. None of my 1 - 2 year old Eagtac 3400 batteries can power the Wizard for more than about 2 - 15 seconds before the Wizard shuts off and can only be restarted by unscrewing and tightening the tail cap. All of my batteries can power the Wizard with no problems in the Main and Firefly modes. I tried 2 CR123's in the Main modes with no problems too. So the Wizard needs either a non protected battery or a fresh high drain newer protected battery than the ones I have to run the 1000 + lumen modes. I'm curious to hear other experiences from everyone.


----------



## LumenToro

Wow - your Eagtacs are the same set of four I normally use - I also have another NiteCore branded 3400mA ... I guess is going to depend on the history of each battery - will try them as soon as I receive the light and if it is not reliable (still those are supposedly rated up to 4.5A sustained which should do it) - I might have be go out and look for a couple of unprotected versions - still not my desire because then is only one Point Of Failure or bug away. Is Illum a reputable source for what I might end up needing (GAs or above)?



Lou Minescence said:


> I got a Wizard Pro V3 XHP50 warm Yesterday. To my surprise the XHP50 Wizard says it can take 2 CR123's or an 18650 battery on the body of the light. The XHP50 Wizard is very battery sensitive on both Turbo modes and Strobes. So far I can only reliably run my light on the NCR18650GA unprotected batteries I purchased from Zebralight. None of my 1 - 2 year old Eagtac 3400 batteries can power the Wizard for more than about 2 - 15 seconds before the Wizard shuts off and can only be restarted by unscrewing and tightening the tail cap. All of my batteries can power the Wizard with no problems in the Main and Firefly modes. I tried 2 CR123's in the Main modes with no problems too. So the Wizard needs either a non protected battery or a fresh high drain newer protected battery than the ones I have to run the 1000 + lumen modes. I'm curious to hear other experiences from everyone.


----------



## Lou Minescence

LumenToro said:


> Wow - your Eagtacs are the same set of four I normally use - I also have another NiteCore branded 3400mA ... I guess is going to depend on the history of each battery - will try them as soon as I receive the light and if it is not reliable (still those are supposedly rated up to 4.5A sustained which should do it) - I might have be go out and look for a couple of unprotected versions - still not my desire because then is only one Point Of Failure or bug away. Is Illum a reputable source for what I might end up needing (GAs or above)?



Illum is a reputable source for batteries.
The Zebralight site has the unprotected 3500 GA batteries for a good price too.

I'm going to try my Olight batteries tomorrow.
I measured the amp draw or my Wizard at the tailcap @ 3.7 amps on Turbo. I would figure my Eagtacs would be able to handle that draw. Still a work in progress for me.

Other than the batteries and the highest modes, the Wizard is nice. The switch is easy to push compared to my version 1.5 Wizard. The tint and beam pattern are great. The yellow headband is still in the box. I like the green Zebralight headband better and am using it for the Wizard.


----------



## clemence

scs said:


> I bought from a reputable dealer. They sent out a replacement for my first light that failed after 30 days. When the replacement in turn failed, they did not offer a replacement, a refund, or store credit, but to send the light off for repairs, so off it went. I've been waiting for it to come back for 4 MONTHS and counting. So unless dealers always offer direct replacement, the wait and uncertainty can be just as bad as dealing with AT directly.



Well, that's so unfortunate. It's a pity. AT must act fast or ends in the bottom of the premium flashlight competition. The quality and sophisticated features that once brought it to the upper rank MUST be maintained with good QC and CS. I like AT for it's tough all rounder performance, but only when it's working.


----------



## clemence

Lou Minescence said:


> Illum is a reputable source for batteries.
> The Zebralight site has the unprotected 3500 GA batteries for a good price too.
> 
> I'm going to try my Olight batteries tomorrow.
> I measured the amp draw or my Wizard at the tailcap @ 3.7 amps on Turbo. I would figure my Eagtacs would be able to handle that draw. Still a work in progress for me.
> 
> Other than the batteries and the highest modes, the Wizard is nice. The switch is easy to push compared to my version 1.5 Wizard. The tint and beam pattern are great. The yellow headband is still in the box. I like the green Zebralight headband better and am using it for the Wizard.



Beamshot please :-D


----------



## LumenToro

that current draw was more or less my guess based on the 1h runtime at Turbo level from 3400mA ...
... since most of my 18650 are protected Eagtacs it is my hope they will be reliable; let us know how they are working for you if you have a chance. I don't mind buying more batteries but I really want then protected ... I don't plan to run 2000 lumen mode more that 30s at the time but I want to be sure it never trips the battery protection as losing the light in the middle of when I would briefly use that more will not be for the fainted heart 
Thanks in advance for any report of the green protected 3400mA Eagtacs !


----------



## CampLite

clemence said:


> Well, that's so unfortunate. It's a pity. AT must act fast or ends in the bottom of the premium flashlight competition. The quality and sophisticated features that once brought it to the upper rank MUST be maintained with good QC and CS. I like AT for it's tough all rounder performance, but only when it's working.



I just received my XPH50 V3 warm a couple days ago. I'll be frank here, it's the best flashlight ever. So far.. I'll be the first to post any problems, but using high quality 18650's it's nothing short of amazing. Tint is estimated 3500k and literally my favorite tint of any flashlights I've owned. I just can't believe I have this light and that technology has progressed this far. It makes my zebralight headlights look like an antiquated relic in comparison and I'm a fan of zebralight(given I don't have the latest models). Haters gonna hate, but this flashlight is legit.


----------



## highenergyted

Fantastic. 

After ramping through the 7 available settings from firefly to high I have managed to get it into one turbo which looked good..if only I could find it again. Seems it needs super fast clicking. But I can also hit random strobe.
Not sure what the hell I'm doing wrong as it all sounds so easy.

Atleast I got too a turbo mode. So the battery has enough guts in it. Its an armytek 3400mah protected. It actually is a Japanese seiko as I destroyed the wrapper fitting it in a Spark light so I peeled it off. It appears how it was assembled the circumference of the batteries varied... Japanese parts possibly assembled in China.
Some of them fit more easily in the Spark.

To clarify. If I'm running protected should I even need to select a battery type in menu??????

On high my little spark 220 cuts through it in the 7th mode which must be armyteks 500 or maybe 1250 lumens?


----------



## Lou Minescence

highenergyted said:


> Fantastic.
> 
> After ramping through the 7 available settings from firefly to high I have managed to get it into one turbo which looked good..if only I could find it again. Seems it needs super fast clicking. But I can also hit random strobe.
> Not sure what the hell I'm doing wrong as it all sounds so easy.
> 
> Atleast I got too a turbo mode. So the battery has enough guts in it. Its an armytek 3400mah protected. It actually is a Japanese seiko as I destroyed the wrapper fitting it in a Spark light so I peeled it off. It appears how it was assembled the circumference of the batteries varied... Japanese parts possibly assembled in China.
> Some of them fit more easily in the Spark.
> 
> To clarify. If I'm running protected should I even need to select a battery type in menu??????
> 
> On high my little spark 220 cuts through it in the 7th mode which must be armyteks 500 or maybe 1250 lumens?



To get to the two " turbo " modes : with the light on or off, push the switch rapidly 3 times. You will be in one of the two turbo modes now. In turbo mode, push and hold the switch to select either the higher or lower turbo.

Same goes for the strobes but push 4 times. Then there are 3 strobes to choose from by push and hold the switch.


----------



## Lou Minescence

Lou Minescence said:


> I got a Wizard Pro V3 XHP50 warm Yesterday. To my surprise the XHP50 Wizard says it can take 2 CR123's or an 18650 battery on the body of the light. The XHP50 Wizard is very battery sensitive on both Turbo modes and Strobes. So far I can only reliably run my light on the NCR18650GA unprotected batteries I purchased from Zebralight. None of my 1 - 2 year old Eagtac 3400 batteries can power the Wizard for more than about 2 - 15 seconds before the Wizard shuts off and can only be restarted by unscrewing and tightening the tail cap. All of my batteries can power the Wizard with no problems in the Main and Firefly modes. I tried 2 CR123's in the Main modes with no problems too. So the Wizard needs either a non protected battery or a fresh high drain newer protected battery than the ones I have to run the 1000 + lumen modes. I'm curious to hear other experiences from everyone.



It appears that a few of my batteries have aged and no longer perform to their maximum potential. All my newer higher priced 18650's can power the Wizard. The 2-3 year old batteries I have work well in other lights I have but the XHP50 Wizard is too much if a current guzzler on high to use them. Time to test and grade my batteries again. 

Use good fresh batteries in the XHP50 Wizard or you will think something is wrong with the light !


----------



## highenergyted

Possibly my batteries have drained and now too low to ramp up too turbo. Totally impractical for our kind of use. Ok at home where it can be continually recharged. 

I'll make a video as this is probably better for clarification with fully charged batteries and hopefully able to return to turbo.

On a light note.

Armtek's site reviews of the 2016 light from David and Paul in 2013 showed powers of precognition.

Out of the box with 18650 protected, they should be able to operate fully without menu selection?


----------



## highenergyted

After the video I went through the 18650 selection menu instead of trying to rapidly press the button.

Switch on and keep the button down till the highest mode . Release button pressure so its still running then depress button to go to menu indicated by the light flashing 3x every second. The click one time...one click only to select 18650
Now I can get 2 turbo modes after cycling through from firefly through to high, released button then depress it again and voila ...this is the two turbo modes?
The 550cw Spark is still wasting it.


----------



## Lou Minescence

highenergyted said:


> After the video I went through the 18650 selection menu instead of trying to rapidly press the button.
> 
> Switch on and keep the button down till the highest mode . Release button pressure so its still running then depress button to go to menu indicated by the light flashing 3x every second. The click one time...one click only to select 18650
> Now I can get 2 turbo modes after cycling through from firefly through to high, released button then depress it again and voila ...this is the two turbo modes?
> The 550cw Spark is still wasting it.




I watched your video. I see what the confusion is. There are 2 different ways to access brightness levels and you are mixing the two.
If you are going to push and hold the switch for 7 brightness levels, you will end up at the 1250 lumen level every time. As soon as you get to the seventh level, release the switch. Then wait a few seconds and push and hold the switch down. You will then enter the 2300 lumen Turbo mode.

If you push and hold the switch for seven levels and continue to hold down the button, you will enter the battery specifying mode.

If you push and hold the switch for seven levels and then rapidly click the switch, I don't know what to tell you. 

I Spark looks so much brighter than the Wizard because the Wizard has a diffused beam and the Spark beam is concentrated or more focused.


----------



## eraursls1984

clemence said:


> I agree with you guys about all the bad AT customer service that must be improved ASAP.
> To individual owners AT customer service is bad and nerve testing. But to wholesale buyers/dealers they really take care of them. Maybe that's why GG said AT is the most reliable company to deal with. Tried to become a semi dealer of several flashlight brands for the last one year here after a huge purchase for a mining company. So far Armytek and Xtar have the best customer service among other brands I sell. Eventhough I did all the dirty job for the clients =(.
> The morale is to buy only from reputable dealers, NOT directly from the manufacturer online shop website. Leave all the hassle to the dealers.
> Also to minimize any possible disappointment, the rule of thumb is to multiply 80% of the claimed specification.


The problem is that many of us who buy from of dealers get a different product than what we expect and Armytek says to only order directly from them to avoid getting the pre-production garbage they send to their dealers. They have stated that many times in their subforum on this board.


----------



## KarstGhost

I got the warm version to use for caving. Seems to be working great so far around the house. I haven't been caving yet to try it out in that setting.

The UI is a little more complicated than my previous Wizard but not bad once you try it out. Mine didn't come with any instructions so I'm not sure if there's different settings. It has 3 groups from what I can tell. A first group with the low modes, then a second group accessed by a double click then hold switch to cycle through, then a triple click to access the highest group and hold to cycle through.

I like the tint. The tint is warmer than my Nichia 219 lights but not as warm as my 90 CRI XPG2 lights.


----------



## clemence

eraursls1984 said:


> The problem is that many of us who buy from of dealers get a different product than what we expect and *Armytek says to only order directly from them to avoid getting the pre-production garbage they send to their dealers.* They have stated that many times in their subforum on this board.



Are you really sure about this? :shakehead


----------



## eraursls1984

clemence said:


> Are you really sure about this? :shakehead


Yes, under their subforum. People, myself included, complain that what we received didn't match their specs and they just tell us make sure you buy directly from them to receiving pre-production models. I received no manual and the one on their website was different from my Tiara. I got the original version right after they have released them so there wasn't even a V2 out at the time. My biggest mistake was contacting Armytek rather than the dealer.


----------



## highenergyted

[*QUOTE=Lou Minescence;4889145]I watched your video. I see what the confusion is. There are 2 different ways to access brightness levels and you are mixing the two.
If you are going to push and hold the switch for 7 brightness levels, you will end up at the 1250 lumen level every time. As soon as you get to the seventh level, release the switch. Then wait a few seconds and push and hold the switch down. You will then enter the 2300 lumen Turbo mode.

If you push and hold the switch for seven levels and continue to hold down the button, you will enter the battery specifying mode.

If you push and hold the switch for seven levels and then rapidly click the switch, I don't know what to tell you. 

I Spark looks so much brighter than the Wizard because the Wizard has a diffused beam and the Spark beam is concentrated or more focused.[/QUOTE]

I agree.
However I followed the advice..I think as its cryptic from the armytek dude in reply to my first video for assistance. His advice...

"It is hard to see what mode you have chosen in the video, but it looks like you have chosen Main3 mode which has 500 lumens LED. 
Don't forget that light outputs for flashlights with warm light are about 7% less, beam distances are about 3% less.
In order to go to turbo mode you need make 3 clicks. After that, press and hold : to start cycling through the modes of the current section."

However in the video I was comparing level 7 (1250 lumens) to the 500 lumen Spark and even less a1 armytek

This is from armyteks XHP-50 PDF instruction that they also sent me..which is the conveniently the same as any other of their unflaged wizards. Therefor as they are all the same. Then the same instruction is going to work just fine.**

"Do not specify the type of power source manually unless you use unprotected Li-Ion batteries. 1x18650 Li-Ion battery is by default"*
*
Therefore they should delete this redundant advice as user cannot out of the box use the protected 18650 default and has to go to menu to select type of battery to get to a turbo?

As with their other models three clicks should get too at least one turbo would be the experience for others who have had their lights. Such as with the Tiara a1 in my previous video in the saga. Which was still competing with this wizard in mode 7..supposedly 1250 lumens. Well done Tiara... Change its name to wizard destroyer.

Anyway it seems you are right. Select the battery. In this case 18650 whatever protected or unprotected.... 
Go through the process. 

I guess it may come back to Gyzmo2002's earlier comment as to why armytek never measured its beam length? And your comment that the lens is only ok for flooding the area instead of seeing further as with the spark with a German Schott lens.
So it will depend on if the user needs all that extra lumens that armytek rate it at if at all its an improvement.

I'll post the video of the turbo vs spark 500 comparison. Surely 2000plus lumens will beat 500 at 8 meters?
*


----------



## KeepingItLight

Lou Minescence said:


> Lou's lengthy message is given below. I moved it outside of the quote to get rid of the hard-to-read italics.



I watched your video. I see what the confusion is. There are 2 different ways to access brightness levels and you are mixing the two.
If you are going to push and hold the switch for 7 brightness levels, you will end up at the 1250 lumen level every time. As soon as you get to the seventh level, release the switch. Then wait a few seconds and push and hold the switch down. You will then enter the 2300 lumen Turbo mode.

If you push and hold the switch for seven levels and continue to hold down the button, you will enter the battery specifying mode.

If you push and hold the switch for seven levels and then rapidly click the switch, I don't know what to tell you. 

I Spark looks so much brighter than the Wizard because the Wizard has a diffused beam and the Spark beam is concentrated or more focused.




highenergyted said:


> Ted's message has also been moved outside of the quote. My old eyes found it nearly impossible to read because of the extensive use of bold.



I agree.
However I followed the advice..I think as its cryptic from the armytek dude in reply to my first video for assistance. His advice...

"It is hard to see what mode you have chosen in the video, but it looks like you have chosen Main3 mode which has 500 lumens LED. 
Don't forget that light outputs for flashlights with warm light are about 7% less, beam distances are about 3% less.
In order to go to turbo mode you need make 3 clicks. After that, press and hold : to start cycling through the modes of the current section."

However in the video I was comparing level 7 (1250 lumens) to the 500 lumen Spark and even less a1 armytek

This is from armyteks XHP-50 PDF instruction that they also sent me..which is the conveniently the same as any other of their unflaged wizards. Therefor as they are all the same. Then the same instruction is going to work just fine.
"Do not specify the type of power source manually unless you use unprotected Li-Ion batteries. 1x18650 Li-Ion battery is by default"

Therefore they should delete that redundancy as user should out of the box select 18650 as the default won't function with either protected or non batteries?

As with their other models three clicks should get too at least one turbo would be the experience for others who have had their lights. Such as with the Tiara a1 in my previous video in the saga. Which was still competing with this wizard in mode 7..supposedly 1250 lumens. Well done Tiara... Change its name to wizard destroyer.

Anyway it seems you are right. Select the battery. In this case 18650 whatever protected or unprotected.... 
Go through the process. 

I guess it may come back to Gyzmo2002's earlier comment as to why armytek never measured its beam length? And your comment that the lens is only ok for flooding the area instead of seeing further as with the spark with a German Schott lens.
So it will depend on if the user needs all that extra lumens that armytek rate it at if at all its an improvement.

I'll post the video of the turbo vs spark 500 comparison. Surely 2000plus lumens will beat 500 at 8 meters?

--------------------------------------------------------------
_Comments by KIL:_

I watched the video, too. I found myself wondering three things: 1. Would a higher-draw battery, such as the Samsung INR18650-30Q, give better results, 2. Your triple clicks seem mighty fast; slower might be better, and 3. As indicated by others above, I wonder whether there is a better way to activate turbo.


----------



## highenergyted

Thanks

I can function the a1 ok. Go from any mode to turbo. Maybe its out of desperation to get a result from the wizard I'm clicking too fast. It made it hard to return to slower clicks on the Spark to get those going... I'll have a cup or tea prior to recording.

If it needs better batteries than I have then its just to going to be feasible for an average user. 

Currently I have selected 18650 from menu. As per instructions. I do go to some sort of high mode after three clicks but its not as bright as even the level 7 mode. I'm guessing its 500 lumens like the armytek dude reckons. I agree with his opinion of that output.
I notice even in level 7 it soon dims aswell

Back to the battery recharger before next video to give it the best opportunity.


----------



## Lou Minescence

Well Im changing my story about my battery use in the Wizard. None of my protected cells work reliably in this light. All my newer and older unprotected cells work with no issues. I even tried my Olight LG based protected cell that is protected. The light just will not work on the high output modes with my protected cells.

What batteries are other people using ?


----------



## highenergyted

As it won't work in default with protected batteries. I guess you have tried selecting unprotected mode. If so it will repeat my results of weak output.

I'd also like to hear other results. 

Can this light work on ordinary protected such as the companies own batteries as it is sold to be able to do so?


----------



## Lou Minescence

highenergyted said:


> As it won't work in default with protected batteries. I guess you have tried selecting unprotected mode. If so it will repeat my results of weak output.
> 
> I'd also like to hear other results.
> 
> Can this light work on ordinary protected batteries as it is sold to do be able to do so?



It says in the directions " Specifying the Battery type for correct voltage indication ". I think it only effects the colored led indicator in the switch.


----------



## highenergyted

I noticed the flashing green light too...there is no coverage in the information about what it indicates. On the PDF for this particular light from armytek they relate to a orange colour led
"Low battery level. When it is < 25%, the color LED will show the warning level – flashing in orange color once in 2 second."

Is your green or orange led? That's the led under the switch ? As said in my model delivered ...it flashes only green.

The V2 has an led too. What colour is that when it flashes?


I cannot find *Armytek* Optoelectronics Inc in Canadian/Ontario company registration
http://recherche-search.gc.ca/rGs/s...dn=isdeised&hq=&q=Armytek+Optoelectronics+Inc


----------



## gyzmo2002

You can try the Armytek sub-forum for the Wizard and the Tiara too. 

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/397737


----------



## highenergyted

About the only thing I can see is a diagram in the instruction PDF for the light and two different shades of _green_ indicating State Indication
Battery level
5sec
< 100%
< 50%

If you get orange you have low battery or overheating.


Same as the V2 diagrams


----------



## clemence

Lou Minescence said:


> It says in the directions " Specifying the Battery type for correct voltage indication ". I think it only effects the colored led indicator in the switch.



In my older Wizard V.3 with Cree XP-L, it does affects the runtime/output. For example if you specify CR123 while using 18650, triple clicks won't be able to trigger the Turbo mode. It reads the battery as if it's almost completely depleted and then soon enters the firefly mode.
I'll post the video of I how normally use my Wizard Pro V.3


----------



## highenergyted

Can you show me how to go through the non protected 18650 menu? In case my final one click is out of sync.
Also if you can use protected default mode for protected batteries and get turbo 2000+ lumens!
Thanks


----------



## clemence

highenergyted said:


> Can you show me how to go through the non protected 18650 menu? In case my final one click is out of sync.
> Also if you can use protected default mode for protected batteries and get turbo 2000+ lumens!
> Thanks



I don't have the XHP50 version yet. This video is with the Wizard Pro V.3 XPL Warm White version.
The UI should be similar to what you're using except those additional modes in Turbo and Special sections. Currently my internet connection is too slow to upload the videos I made. Let's wait for a while, should be back good after lunch hour. The joy of living in a remote area.....

PS: I can't show you the unprotected 18650 demo as I already gave all my older unprotected panasonics.


----------



## clemence

Armytek Wizard Pro v.3 [XP-L] - How to access different modes


Armytek Wizard Pro v.3 [XP-L] - Wrong battery input selection demonstration


----------



## highenergyted

clemence said:


> Armytek Wizard Pro v.3 [XP-L] - How to access different modes
> 
> 
> Armytek Wizard Pro v.3 [XP-L] - Wrong battery input selection demonstration




Thanks, that was clear and useful advice. I will use that help it my next comparison. I was one click out. However..

I am certain I was not in CR123 though

My results with the light with the protected batteries and Nitecore D4 charger that I have are all still consistent. As it appears I was previously passed the 7th mode to _Turbo2 Judging by the increase in light level over the 7th mode. As there is no alternative level then I conclude it is Turbo 2 that was produced but not the described lumens form the PDF for this light. Nor were the results from this page achieved.
https://www.armytek.com/products/fl...rmytek-wizard-pro-v3-xhp-50-white-silver.html
_
In another simplified and certain to be able to verify In _turbo 1 which is described as 1250 im/ 1h 40m _an Armytek Tiara 345 lm (30min), is brighter using the same lens. 
Let alone the Spark which has a beam at 4 meters distance nearly twice the width and the outside perimeter rim of the Spark light is visible through the XHP50 when directed over each other.
The Spark is Still brighter in Turbo 2 with protected batteries. I cannot comment on unprotected results as I don't have any of that type.

This thread the lumens are 1600..how does that get to 2300 lumens. That is contrary.


----------



## highenergyted

https://youtu.be/79yJhQ7jkXc

Latest results which are the same as the prior results. It appears the default does work with the batteries and that if I select unprotected 18650 the result is the same as protected default. The entire problem for me is the amount of lumens produced with the protected batteries.

In the 5 lights so far tested= all the same exact results with protected batteries.

For reference I used an Armytek A1 which was brighter than the wizards 2 turbo settings


----------



## Lazyspacetruck

You are not in turbo 2

Triple click/release, then hold the button down so you can see the light switch between the two turbo modes.

The other good option is to start from off. Press and hold and count seven modes then release the button. You are now in turbo 1. Now press and hold again to see it switch between turbo one and turbo 2. It will keep switching until you release the button.


----------



## Lazyspacetruck

If it doesn't switch between the two Turbo Modes then it is because of the protected battery.


----------



## Lazyspacetruck

I also noticed that the warmer light can be deceptive. Heck it tricked me earlier today when I was comparing against my other three lights. The warm tint is closer to sunlight and seems to wash out in the daylight. Check it at night and make sure you see it switch between two modes with the button held down. That's my 2 cents.


----------



## clemence

highenergyted said:


> Thanks, that was clear and useful advice. I will use that help it my next comparison. I was one click out. However..
> 
> I am certain I was not in CR123 though
> 
> My results with the light with the protected batteries and Nitecore D4 charger that I have are all still consistent. As it appears I was previously passed the 7th mode to _Turbo2 Judging by the increase in light level over the 7th mode. As there is no alternative level then I conclude it is Turbo 2 that was produced but not the described lumens form the PDF for this light. Nor were the results from this page achieved.
> https://www.armytek.com/products/fl...rmytek-wizard-pro-v3-xhp-50-white-silver.html
> _
> In another simplified and certain to be able to verify In _turbo 1 which is described as 1250 im/ 1h 40m _an Armytek Tiara 345 lm (30min), is brighter using the same lens.
> Let alone the Spark which has a beam at 4 meters distance nearly twice the width and the outside perimeter rim of the Spark light is visible through the XHP50 when directed over each other.
> The Spark is Still brighter in Turbo 2 with protected batteries. I cannot comment on unprotected results as I don't have any of that type.
> 
> This thread the lumens are 1600..how does that get to 2300 lumens. That is contrary.



I missed one important note in my video:

Normally the Wizard will ramping up through all the available modes EXCEPT the special modes, before constantly blinking waiting for the input.

_NORMAL sequence: [Press + hold] firefly1 - firefly2 - firefly3 - main1 - main2 - main3 - turbo1 - blinking [release + quick SINGLE click] - the wizard will blinks until you enter the parameter [respond with 1 or 2 or 3 clicks] it will confirms with 1/2/3 blinks depending of what you've just entered._

But in other case if you use different battery type than what's stored in the driver setting, for example RCR123 while in fact you're using a 18650, then you won't get all the full modes when trying re-input the selection. You can see in my video when I corrected the battery type, It didn't ramp up through all the 7 modes (or 8 modes in XHP50 version) instead it stopped at it's maximum available brightness possible after a pause here and there. It was because the driver thinks it didn't have enough power to do so.
So, if you get into this situation: *Watch and count first, how many modes are displayed before the mode ramping stops. Just keep pressing the button while counting. Then do it again.*


----------



## clemence

highenergyted said:


> https://youtu.be/79yJhQ7jkXc
> 
> Latest results which are the same as the prior results. It appears the default does work with the batteries and that if I select unprotected 18650 the result is the same as protected default. The entire problem for me is the amount of lumens produced with the protected batteries.
> 
> In the 5 lights so far tested= all the same exact results with protected batteries.
> 
> For reference I used an Armytek A1 which was brighter than the wizards 2 turbo settings



Yup, it's not at it's full potential. I have a Spark SD500CW. Using a spot reflector included and my older XP-L Wizard Pro v.3 beat it.
It's time to continue with battery test. If you don't have the high drain battery yet, you can try to connect two 18650 battery in PARALLEL to get double the current capabilities though.


----------



## LumenToro

You can get high drain protected batteries with 3500mA from orbtronic rated up to 10A before it trips - I ordered them assuming they will work as good as unprotected without risk if something goes wrong - I have not received the light yet but I will report here if it works in the 2000 lumen turbo.

Quick comment to apple to organges comparisons : naturally a large Field Of View headlamp distributes your lumens across the larger FOV so your candelas might be less that a spot light with less lumens but less FOV ... but with 2000 lumen you can get best of class range than any other floody light. My 2 cents

One final comment - even for the same FOV, twice the lumens are not perceived as twice the lightness perception because we humans don't perceive linearly ... but for sure should feel brighter !


----------



## clemence

LumenToro said:


> Quick comment to apple to organges comparisons : naturally a large Field Of View headlamp distributes your lumens across the larger FOV so your candelas might be less that a spot light with less lumens but less FOV ... but with 2000 lumen you can get best of class range than any other floody light. My 2 cents
> 
> One final comment - even for the same FOV, twice the lumens are not perceived as twice the lightness perception because we humans don't perceive linearly ... but for sure should feel brighter !



Agree that's why I said even using the included spot reflector (Spark SD500CW is a pure flood HL), the max mode in my XPL Wiz v3 still looks brighter both in perceived overall brightness or the center spot. The Wiz is brighter and better than SD500CW in this regards. The more focused and clearly defined the hot spot the more the difference with the surrounding to our brain (assuming used at a dark night). Messing our dark adapted vision.
I plan to mod my Wiz TIR from 70/120 to a smooth 90/120 since Armytek is no longer offer it.


----------



## highenergyted

Lazyspacetruck said:


> You are not in turbo 2
> 
> Triple click/release, then hold the button down so you can see the light switch between the two turbo modes.
> 
> The other good option is to start from off. Press and hold and count seven modes then release the button. You are now in turbo 1. Now press and hold again to see it switch between turbo one and turbo 2. It will keep switching until you release the button.



Thanks, though .

I have been in that phase...its as said. Definitely not running to its full potential with these protected batteries.
From what I can discern from other threads customers have great success with unprotected.

The video doesn't really account for full light contrast. The outside of the 500 beam was visible over the Wizard Which even in the fail proof to get too 7th mode should not happen. I have wrestled with 5 of them out of the box. With the same results. I would prefer to have them work.
There will always be doubters on the net though. This is the last comment to clarify from me on it.

For my own personal use a floody is not fully satisfactory. Like others have mentioned clear lens options would have potentially increased sales for armytek rather than staying with TIR on the whole range.

Speaking of a fair comparison in the field. For example ..The Spark 220cw because of both wide and concentrate beams it works out ok and it does exceed beam length over the excellent little higher lumen A1. However the Spark can also still be used up close though peripherally this is where Armytek TIR is better. Sometimes its not just about lumen output everywhere but on what I want to see. Which is sometimes an object or where I want to go.
Around home the Armytek or working on something would excel for orientation. I imagine due too physics 2000+ lumens must have a longer beam over 1000.
Like a few others I need that reach out option on top.
Perhaps a swiss army like multi head.(half serious)


----------



## Lazyspacetruck

Mine works great. The video was just a little confusing because your clicking the button like a spastic squirrel. I'm not being mean when I say that. Just trying to help. I can hear the clicks and replicated with mine. Clicking that fast seems to confuse the light. It confused the crap out of mine. That said, others are reporting issues with protected cells as well. I don't have any protected cells but I suspect a cell limited to the 5amp range may cause issue. That's why I was trying to drive home the idea of getting it to switch back and forth between the 2 turbo modes with the button held down. That would instantly prove whether you could get into that mode with the protected cell. Good luck.


----------



## highenergyted

https://youtu.be/Ou0y0ZgVWIY


----------



## Toolboxkid

Does the xhp50 model have voltage indication? I am only finding the strobe modes when I search for it. Thanks


Sent from my iPad using Candlepowerforums


----------



## Lazyspacetruck

highenergyted said:


> https://youtu.be/Ou0y0ZgVWIY



Good video. I wish I could hand you one of my batteries. I'll be curious to see if some of the higher end of the spectrum maybe 10 amp protection batteries fare better. My unprotected LG batteries (2500mah, 20A) are doing well. I did notice that cooler light can still be seen in the warmly lit area though. It's not really more intense in my case but I can see it move because it is a different color. It's hard to get camera to illustrate.


----------



## Raoh

I was thinking about one of these, but the QC issues are concerning. That and the ambiguity over where the Company is actually based.


----------



## Lou Minescence

Toolboxkid said:


> Does the xhp50 model have voltage indication? I am only finding the strobe modes when I search for it. Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Candlepowerforums



The voltage indication for the battery percent charge is the color flash from the button. Green is good red is low. Yellow is half.
The feature of the main LED flashing voltage level of the battery is not present on the Version 2 and 3 Wizards. 



Raoh said:


> I was thinking about one of these, but the QC issues are concerning. That and the ambiguity over where the Company is actually based.



I haven't noticed as many posts of broken Wizards from version V3 owners yet. Still may be too early to tell. the big thing with the company is using the word " Canadian manufacturer ". " Canadian Company " is more like it. The real problem is when 'quality control' and ' manufacturer address' cross paths.


----------



## clemence

The XPL version still have it. Eventhough it's more useful as a slow beacon rather than to tell your far away companion your battery voltage


----------



## Lou Minescence

clemence said:


> The XPL version still have it. Eventhough it's more useful as a slow beacon rather than to tell your far away companion your battery voltage



Your XPL V3 has the battery voltage check feature from the main led in the 4 click special set of modes ?


----------



## clemence

Yes, four clicks.
1 long + 4 short bursts beacon >75%
1 long + 3 short bursts beacon >50%
1 long + 2 short bursts beacon >25%
1 long + 1 short bursts beacon >10%
You can see it in my video at 2:30


----------



## Lou Minescence

clemence said:


> Yes, four clicks.
> 1 long + 4 short bursts beacon >75%
> 1 long + 3 short bursts beacon >50%
> 1 long + 2 short bursts beacon >25%
> 1 long + 1 short bursts beacon >10%
> You can see it in my video at 2:30




I didn't realize that was an indication for battery charge. 
I'll have to check it out.

Well..

I did not find a battery check from the 4th special modes selection on my V3 XHP50. 4 clicks I end up in the memorized strobe or beacon last used. I have one strobe and a high and low beacon in the fourth mode. 3 functions all together. 

My older V1.5 Wizard has the special modes with a main led flash for battery voltage.

As far as I can tell the XHP50 only has the colored button to indicate battery charge remaining.


----------



## highenergyted

So far they say they were registered as an incorporation in 2010 in Ottawa province. Which has free company registration. There is no company or incorporation in the Canadian or provincial or federal online results. 
I have requested further information such as company number. They have not provided anything more. Armytek
ship out of China and the shipping invoice has country of origin which means place of manufacture as China.
Canada has good consumer protection laws. In most countries misleading information is a legal tort. H
owever besides their only claim to being a Canadian based company was that they registered in 2010.
They also have this on their website. 
*Canadian manufacturer *and own 6-floor factory.
...Perhaps they do something in the six room house.
However based in current information it would be misleading for me to print the produce as manufactur*ed* in Canada under our consumer guarantees act.


----------



## Wendee

highenergyted said:


> So far they say they were registered as an incorporation in 2010 in Ottawa province. Which has free company registration. There is no company or incorporation in the Canadian or provincial or federal online results.



This post caught my eye because I live in Ottawa, Ontario (Ottawa is the city, Ontario is the Province). I've never heard of a "free company registration" before. 

I saw on the ArmyTek Facebook page that they're located in Richmond Hill, Ontario. I just found the actual address by doing a simple search (I won't post it for privacy reasons as it's an actual house). Google maps shows it's a house in a residential area.

What's odd is their phone number. On their website (phone number in big font at top of the page) the area code is 347. Last I heard, telephone area code for Richmond Hill are both 905 & 289. When I looked up 347, it says "New York" (obviously in the USA). Maybe I'm wrong about this? Have area codes changed, maybe? I know Toronto area adds new area codes from time to time (?)

I'm not saying there's anything fishy going on, but it's kind of funny: I order a "Canadian" flashlight which according to ArmyTek, is made with Japanese and American parts, built in China, and I believe that I'd be submitting my order to an office in New York? lol

They do have a nice big Canadian flag on their website though.


----------



## scs

Borrowing one of Deng Xiao Ping's quotes, "Regardless of whether it's a black cat or white cat, if it catches mice, it's a good cat."
Coming from my experience with 2 Armytek light failures in a row, Armytek is a "spotty" cat.


----------



## SubLGT

Do the RCMP carry Armytek flashlights?


----------



## highenergyted

Wendee said:


> This post caught my eye because I live in Ottawa, Ontario (Ottawa is the city, Ontario is the Province). I've never heard of a "free company registration" before.



I'm not Canadian. I am 100% living and breathing in New Zealand. I meant to refer to Ontario province but got mixed up with my fruitless search efforts with names and places. 
However quid pro quo mate, do you know where the hell the great place of Taupo is?
... well I live in a super volcanic crater and eat marmite !!!

Back on track...

The consumer laws between the two fine nations is quite similar. Not that its relevant since Armtek Inc. from what I can discover so far has no current Canadian existence therefor no liability there. If anyone can shed further light on this to clarify please do so.
From their website
Legally _*Armytek*_ Optoelectronics _*Inc*_. was registered by Olga Khanoutin, the company's President, in the beginning of the _*2010*_ in _*Ontario*_,
*https://www.ic.gc.ca/eic/site/cd-dgc.nsf/eng/cs02486.html#fee
"Is a fee required?*

There are no fees for registering with the province of Ontario. "


----------



## Wendee

highenergyted said:


> I'm not Canadian. I am 100% living and breathing in New Zealand. I meant to refer to Ontario province but got mixed up with my fruitless search efforts with names and places.
> However quid pro quo mate, do you know where the hell the great place of Taupo is?
> ... well I live in a super volcanic crater and eat marmite !!!
> 
> Back on track...
> 
> The consumer laws between the two fine nations is quite similar. Not that its relevant since Armtek Inc. from what I can discover so far has no current Canadian existence therefor no liability there. If anyone can shed further light on this to clarify please do so.
> From their website
> Legally _*Armytek*_ Optoelectronics _*Inc*_. was registered by Olga Khanoutin, the company's President, in the beginning of the _*2010*_ in _*Ontario*_,
> *https://www.ic.gc.ca/eic/site/cd-dgc.nsf/eng/cs02486.html#fee
> "Is a fee required?*
> 
> There are no fees for registering with the province of Ontario. "



New Zealand? Wow! Well, hello from Canada! :wave:

I've never been called "mate" before, very cool! 

I think the page you're looking at is for "Federal corporations who wish to register their corporation in the province of Ontario" (they're already registered in Canada, but not this province?). To start a new corporation is about $200.00 (I thought it cost more..hmmm). 

Those government web sites are SO confusing! Really, it's hard to make heads or tails of anything when trying to find "any" type of information. It drives me nuts. 

I'm not sure why you're checking out ArmyTek, but I'll take a look for more information as well because now I'm curious about this company. If you want to know their Canadian address, just send me a PM and I'll tell you the webpage (it's public information, nothing secret, but I don't want someone's home address posted on here). 

I'll see if I can find any company registration for them (public info) but if you couldn't find it, I might not have any better luck.


----------



## highenergyted

Cheers Mate!


----------



## Wendee

SubLGT said:


> Do the RCMP carry Armytek flashlights?



LOL, I have no idea. ArmyTek says "We speak about military officers and Special Forces", so it seems that they "speak about" them (does that count?).


----------



## Wendee

highenergyted said:


> … There is no company or incorporation in the Canadian or provincial or federal online results. I have requested further information such as company number. They have not provided anything more….



I wonder if they have to provide their company number, by law? You would think so (but I’m not sure). Unless a company is willing to provide their business number or at the very least, the name under which they’re registered, I don’t think that I would just take their word for it.

I'm not "bashing" any company, just posting information I found that was originally published by either ArmyTek or the President of the company (public information).

I can't find Armytek Optoelectronics Inc. registered anywhere in Canada (using this government link: 
https://www.ic.gc.ca/app/scr/cc/CorporationsCanada/fdrlCrpSrch.html). 
This doesn't mean they aren't registered (under a different name maybe?). I tried every variation and also searched under the President's name (who registered the company). 

- A Russian flashlight forum has some info about the company- http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?t=29717 (I couldn't read a word of it, but I saw the photos of the company president, etc that were interesting)

You can Google "Better Business Bureau" + "ArmyTek". I won't link to it (a customer complaint and reply by ArmyTek) 

It seems that you can return a flashlight to their "Canada location":
"The product can be sent to Canada when any customer asks about that (the address in Canada is always in public http://www.armytek.com/contact/contact-us.html). 2. We'll refund the costs of the product excluding the costs of shipping."

Note the "Contact Us" info (from link above): 
Location: A house in Ontario, Canada (no Canadian phone numbers?). 
Contact phone (area code 347) is New York?
Contact phone for Wholesale department (area code 218) is Minnesota?

So they're a Canadian company (I can't find the registration though?) run out of a single family house in Ontario, with no Canadian contact phone number. 

The person who registered the company, the predisent (name is on ArmyTek website) has a "day job" with a different company (according to her public LinkedIn profile, which doesn't mention her being associated to ArmyTek). It's strange that the president of a company doesn't even mention it on their business profile, no?

There has to be more to this company that I just can’t find. They certainly aren't the big "Canadian flashlight manufacturer" I was expecting them to be. I'm not left with a comfortable feeling after learning this info so I'll just stick to the flashlight companies that I'm comfortable with.


----------



## clemence

Lou Minescence said:


> I didn't realize that was an indication for battery charge.
> I'll have to check it out.
> 
> Well..
> 
> I did not find a battery check from the 4th special modes selection on my V3 XHP50. 4 clicks I end up in the memorized strobe or beacon last used. I have one strobe and a high and low beacon in the fourth mode. 3 functions all together.
> 
> My older V1.5 Wizard has the special modes with a main led flash for battery voltage.
> 
> As far as I can tell the XHP50 only has the colored button to indicate battery charge remaining.



It's good that AT replaced it with low flashing beacon. I don't see flashing main LED voltage indicator very useful. Imagine checking your battery in a pitch dark cave...hmmmm...total instant green vision for the next 5 minutes. Unless it use the minimal firefly brightness for it.
I long wait for the slow beacon, even though the new Wiz XHP50 could be better with slower (0,3 Hz) beacon in max. mode.


----------



## Lou Minescence

clemence;
I long wait for the slow beacon said:


> Agreed about the beacon mode. A nice slow beacon would be very useful for the Wizard. I think Nitecore has the best beacon mode. Flash every 2.5 seconds. It's great for bike riding. I can't stand the bicyclists with strobes going.


----------



## LumenToro

Finally received mine. First Impressions ... pending longer runtime tests - pure basic function test at this point.

*THE GOOD*
(1) Pleasent surprise: the headlamp is smaller than expected based on the pictures we see. It is tiny!
(2) VERY well built - great surface finish, very good straps
(3) Optics look very good, and top of class brightness/runtime (pending testing)
(4) Interface gets to use it, but the auto-memory and the short cuts of double click works fine. Triple click for Max modes, a bit harder.


*THE NOT SO GOOD but not biggie*
(5) No manual, and not UPDATED manual ... I uses the one on-line, which is good and it works however does not mention Max2 (new mode of 2000+ lumens) and most importantly does not mention the battery requirements which are STRICT for this light ... but for normal use it is easy to assume based on the other interfaces. No big deal, but ... I think they are making themselves a disservice not updating the manual ... with the above and my really IMPORTANT notes below.
(6) The lanyard design is not up to par with the rest of the light, but you can get your own optimized.

*BE VERY AWARE OF ...*

The issues to be AWARE of BEFORE you buy so that you prepare for it. IF you plan it is NO PROBLEM, but if you don't plan due to the lack of information of their website or manual, then you will get in trouble quickly.

We all expected this, so it is not a complain and found a solution, *will my pre-existing 18650 batteries work?:*

*(A) Eagtac 3400mAh which are PROTECTED at 4-6A. *

a.1 EXPECTED RESULT1: As reported in this forum, but now confirmed now in person, works fine to all modes but the MAX2 (the 2000+ lm) - that trips the protection after 1sec. If they documented this on their website and manual, I would not have a problem with it.
AT, come on, the above, although not unreasonable given the fact MAX2 needs more than 4A, in my opinion should be WARNED in their website and in their manual as not all users have a MS in EEE.
a.3 BIG UNEXPECTED WARNING: Here is the issue that you NEED TO PLAN BEFORE HAND, and on that I will not give AT a pass as I did above: WARNING!!!! After you trip in MAX2 a non-optimum protected battery, you have to unscrew all the way and back ... but here is the real problem - the light gets stuck in the last mode of MAX2 ON! Why is that a problem? well, maybe I am missing something, but after my first tests got the expected MAX2 tripping the battery protection, you are STUCK in MAX2 Turned On in the light the moment you reinsert and screw in the battery which means that unless you have an unprotected battery or a high drain protected at hand, you CANNOT get the light long enough to use the UI to toggle back to MAX1 or other working modes. Maybe there is some secret UI thing, but really you will never get that far to use the UI so ... that is a BIG NO NO ... as if your only battery at hand is the one you used, then you are dead in the water ... They should correct that by detecting battery driven power cut and not memorizing the last mode in such condition by switching to a different mode maybe .. no excuse. Still, if you know this, you just use a different battery ... but this is going to catch a lot of people and will make them fume in forums while they get the right battery. Of course we need and like auto-memory but only if NOT power tripped last.

*NOW THE GOOD NEWS*

*(B) Fortunately, expecting the Eagtec to be borderline for protection based on reports on this forum, I had ordered Orbtronics 3500mAh featuring higher 10A protection circuit.*
b.1 I inserted one and was able to support MAX2 no problem, and finally use the UI to switch it down. Then I could use it again with the lower drain batteries if I wanted, ... but will never do that since you run the danger of getting into MAX2 and getting stuck. So basically, never use any other batteries that high drain with or without protection.
b.2 I have not run them for a long time, but all looks that you can run this PROTECTED batteries as a perfect partner for this light MAX2 because they are rated at 10A protection. Still, let me run a full run test next week and I will confirm that the battery model is the right choice, but they look like they are after running them for few minutes.
*
FIRST IMPRESSION/CONCLUSION
*
GREAT BEST OF CLASS light, ... *if partnered with the right battery *(only 10A protection or unprotected). I prefer the extra safety of using protection at subcomponent level. Still, having a user case in which you can get stuck with no way out by simply using a slightly less optimum battery... makes any battery other that the 10A protected or unprotected NOT suitable to use. They should state this IN BOLD RED in a new manual and in the website.

At least I did my home work and got the batteries that seemed to fit the need. So I am A-ok.

Anyway, for me, with Orbtronics batteries (by the way - I am impressed: they shipped PERFECTLY, with a perfect storage box ... great company - they just won a customer for life). If they work in longer run tests next week will report here - PERFECT flashlight, but it is a petty that for not documenting the above and having a use case that could get stuck in MAX2 they don't get 10 of 10 score, if the above is fixed, then I will give them 11 of 10.

Great choice, but *BE AWARE *of getting the right battery at home BEFORE you received it.

Will report how well it runs with long use and confirm or not 100% that the protecting orbtronics are the right match.


----------



## gyzmo2002

Thank you LumenToro for your first impression and advice.🙂


----------



## highenergyted

Yes. Thanks. They should have simply followed Zebra lights advice with 35xhp (let alone a 50?) and use with unprotected and so many amps.
I should have been able to use my batteries straight out of the box according even their current PDF for this light. As that's supposed to be factory default with 18650 protected on the Armytek XHP50
I quote "Do not specify the type of power source manually unless you use unprotected Li-Ion batteries. 1x18650 Li-Ion battery is by default."
This they sent me about 4 days ago to help. How would they not know the above does not work baffles me.

Anyway looking at the progression with their lights and its still the same body. Even the same printing on the lights from first conception. Then quite simply make a light upgradable with parts. But then that doesn't sell the generation light.

They did offer to send me a 50xhp. That only made me wonder more what lights I got?

Would have been good for night skiing and back country. 

So what companies make drop in lights?


----------



## Lou Minescence

Thanks LumenToro for the report about the Orbtronics battery report. I wait to hear your final results. 
I ran my Wizard briefly on 2 CR123 batteries. As expected it was fine on all lower modes. Just like regular protected 18650's. When I ran Turbo 2 and strobe they actually held up longer than my protected Eagtac batteries without tripping the light. The battery indicator was flashing red while the light was on in Turbo and Strobe. I quit running the light before there were any problems. As I said before, someone not in the know could think they have a bad light after they run protected 18650's and the light cuts out. With no unprotected batteries the light may be stuck unable to be used.
Theres no warning with the light or non existent owners manual.
I was thinking about altering the current Wizard V2 manual and posting it with info known about the light. It could help someone .
Your post was excellent.


----------



## clemence

The stake is just too high to just keep being lazy. A cheap printed A4 plain paper is all it takes. I really have no idea why they're keeping off from including the manual?? And this has been going for years


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## LumenToro

QUICK UPDATE ON BATTERY CAPACITY:
In preparation for the long running test, I measured first the fresh capacity of the Orbtronics that I got this week to confirm their capacity. I do that to both label them to choose/bin the best but also as a safety measure ... You don't want to discover that one battery is counter fit or damaged ... And also you can return them if they are way off the stated capacity ... But please don't be too picky - there are many assumptions on any number printed on a label ... I just do it to be sure they are in the ball park.

The good news is that the stated 3500mAh capacity is now confirmed - they had an average of 99.6% of that number. My sample was four batteries, best 99.9% and worst 99.5%. 

Before somebody screams that is not 100%, let me state I used a 0.5A discharge cycle ... I am sure they are 100% if I use 0.3A rate which is where I need my endurance in the ~220 lumen mode for all night runs. Also another factor that is even more important is that my charger might be using more conservative voltage limits for the end-discharge and the max-charge ... Cutting a bit short and thus reporting less mAh capacity. In my opinion this are 100% OK. 

In summary - Obtronics labeling is 100% truthful ... Which is great. Still batteries are not just defined by the mAh statement as your milage WILL vary if the modes you use are on the higher amperage range / high drain for other reasons. My guess, based on the MEASURED capacity is that my goal of running the main mode of 220+ lumen all night it might be within reach as AT reports runtime for 3400mAh batteries, so I should get few extra minutes to make the combination of the Wizzard XHP50/Warm with Orbtronics 3500 the dream for any mountain ultra-marathoner.

Still the proof should be in the run time. My plan is neither to run it all night, nor run it one hour at 2000 lumens ... As I don't want to push the limits of the light thermal endurance ... Even if reported as legal and self-sensing ...

I just plan to run the 500 lumen mode to see how the runtime number compares with the stated number and extrapolate the over or under rating to the reported 200 lumen number. I am not a reviewer ... I am just a user!

Thanks for the thanks for the mini-report - it was my way of returning the favor of prior reports of the limits of the protection on some batteries - that is the great thing about this forum: we help each other to get the perfect light one step at a time. We also have to be reasonable with any manufacturer and not get catch an ultra-picky number game ... That is how you help them to build better products or update their manuals. Each Manufacturer have pluses and minuses ... Nothing wrong about that if you get into their products fully informed.


----------



## LumenToro

TESTING UI (impressions)
I played with all the modes and I have to say that I LOVE the UI. Keep in mind that this does not account for the basic potential issue I reported should you use a lower drain protected battery which might leave you stranded in +2000 lumen mode. This assume you use the proper battery either unprotected or with protection rated to 10A.

Other than using the manual for the prior versions of the light (and extrapolate from it given that it has extra modes now, and the strict battery requirement) ... The manual (if updated for this model of light) is VERY good - why in the world they did not bother in updating it and printing it to put in the box with the light is beyond my comprehension because they ALREADY did the harder part of the work in the design, manufacturing and the prior manual. But I digress.

I love it because in summary (if you want to skip the manual)
(1) If you just turn on the light, it goes to the last EXACT mode that was active - it does not matter if it was the firefly mode, the 2000 lumen the mode or the strobe. It will go exactly where you left it ... Which I think is great. Also, if you keep it pressed, you can access all the modes except the strobes/beacon ... Which is great if you brain is fried ... You can always access what you want this way.
(2) In addition to (1), you can also Double click (very easy, two clicks speed is very repeatable ...) and you JUMP to the LAST main mode you used before. That is really awesome as you can pre-set what you need and use double click anywhere. This is awesome because if you are like me, you want typically TWO modes easily available: the main mode for long runtime all night (in my case 200 lumens) and briefly the 2000 lumen mode when I get lost and I am trying to replace the function of a high throw spot light. Since you have 2000 lumens, although your Field Of View is large, you are able to put enough intensity/candles on the spot to see enough. Sure, not as much as 1000 lumens spot light, but enough to not have to bring one. I also like the spacing of the main modes ... ~ 500/200/70.
(3) Triple click and you get to the "turbo modes" - again, still memorizes the last turbo mode you used, so you can set it in advance and just use triple click. I find the triple click less easy but it does work. I will only use the 2000 lumens for few seconds ... Even though they say it is designed to hold it you could probably warm your coffee after half minute. Still good to know you can hold it almost 1h, but I would never need that.
(4) Quad-click (if triple is doable, this one is a bit more tricky but you just click away without getting to crazy and it seems to work). As with the above, it does remember the last beacon ... So awesome. 

Now, I still have to test this during a night run to see if the color flash reporting on the button annoys me too much (but it can be disabled). So far so good.

I do have a quick early report on the tint (my model is the WARM one ...) - it is very good on mine ... I can see all colors and the blue spectra does not trick my eyes in thinking the needles leafs on our trees have snow on them at night.

Will report my 500 lum runtime test tomorrow. My public bet against myself (always bet to win) is that after I extrapolate the result, with 3500mAh battery is likely it could run 200+ lumens mode for 11h ... Which was my goal ... But we will see.

Sorry for the verbousiness of the post ...


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## gyzmo2002

I look forward to see how it will run at 2,000 lumens, temperature regulation, output and runtime. 🙂


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## LumenToro

Just posted in the official AT manufacturer thread for this model (where all we should be posting in the future since AT does read that thread) the 500lm test (without instrumentation)

FIRST RUNTIME TEST AT 500lm mode (advertised at 4h10') using warm light
Finally could test this for real albeit without any instrumentation. 

Charged my Orbtronics 18650 3500mAh 10A Protected and turned the light on in Main2 (500lm). Results are I think good, with some extra unexpected pluses that were not documented before to my knowledge.

(1) Run in Main3 (500lm) for about 4h before stepping down I don't know if stepped down around 4h15' or maybe 4h30' to ... Surprise, *did not step down to Firefly modes but to Main 1*! (listed at 40lm, but looks more like 100lm)
It might have gone Main2 but if it did it might have been a short transition. You could not step up above Main1 by 4h30' ...
(2) *Remained in Main1 for another hour !* (5h30' elapsed runtime) Main1 is still a very bright headlamp.
(3) Finally went to Firefly1 automatically ... But here it is the interesting part, I could force step up to Firefly3! (Listed at 7lm, but looks to me more like 14lm) I could still use it as a minimal headlamp for hiking.
(4) *Remained in Firefly3 for another hour !* (6h30' elapsed runtime)
(5) Finally reached cutoff but ...
(6) Still allows you to *instantaneously push and get Firefly1* momentarily ... Awesome design for looking for the next battery.

NOTE1: I did not disable the LED color battery indicator ... Which I saw as green every 5s, then as red every 2s, and finally at red every 1s. Never saw any 0.5 blink. 
NOTE2: There was NO main LED battery blink ... Awesome it is gone - I did not wanted that feature.

So, most likely will disable the LED color battery indicator since there is a very graceful degration ... And I always plan for the actual runtime.

Obviously with this level of sofistication somebody like Selfbuilt or the like should make a fully instrumented measurement but the above is all beyond my expectations. I was expecting it to jump down to Firefly after 4h 500lm and we got one more hour of about 100lm to the 5.5h mark of very capable headlamp, with another hour of final minimal hiking light up yo 6.5h mark ... I did hike with it outside and it was usable still. Finally, you can still push the button to look for batteries.

I would guess extrapolating now that in 210lm mode (Main2) I should expect the reported runtime of close to 11h ... With possibly another hour of Main1 (12h mark) and another of Firefly3(13h mark). In other words, I could probably flash Max 2 at 2000lm a number of times, and still get a bright headlamp all night with some emergency spare reserve.

If all the above is measured to confirm with instrumentation, this is the BEST headlamp hands down.

Two final observations:
At 500lm the light head got hot but bearable to the touch. It reached thermal equilibrium quickly and I was indoors at 74F.

One quick not important comment: my Pro light came with a yellow switch not with the one you see in the pictures. 

It will be awesome if AT clarified my observations on how steps down ... And UPDATED the manual.

Cheers.


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## clemence

(Very) Interesting....but I still stick to my plan to wait another 5 months to avoid the lottery


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## LumenToro

Just posted some opinion on the regulation of this headlamp in the proper ArmyTek thread in this same Forum - hate to post the same content in two difference equivalent threads - that is the proper thread for updated info on this headlamp because AT is also subscribed and in the past has answered some questions. 

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-flashlights&p=4894031&viewfull=1#post4894031

Cheers.


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## highenergyted

The lights regulation is not allowing reasonably 3400mah / 3.7v Seikos of Japan to only match an A1 output?

You could add this caveat too
Orbtronic 3100mAh 18650 protected battery. Orbtronic 3400mAh and 3500mAh will provide longer run time .


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## highenergyted

With those very high drain capable battery and then after the battery is low. Does it run through the modes ok?


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## LumenToro

I would not call them very high drain, just that the protection circuit is higher than the standard 4A.

I run my little test until full depletion/cutoff ... and while in the quoted mode (i.e. if they quote 4h for Main3 at 500lm) I could switch modes higher or lower without restriction. When you are above the stated runtime, it starts to move you down through the modes ... in my test from Main3 ... eventually to Main1. When you are in that over-time (in my test ONE more hour), you can switch modes, but naturally only Main1, Firefly3-2-1 ... etc.

When it finally ends ... at 1-1.5hrs over time, then it just jumps down to Firefly1. Still I notice I could switch up manually up to Firefly3 (which is nice because it is kind of the minimal for emergency hiking) ... which lasted yet another 1h before finally it cut off completely. Then you can still instantaneously push the button to get Firefly1.

That is what I learn on the Main3 test. I don't know how it will behave in other modes but I guess that similarly.

As I noted, I am planning to run a little science capture tonight that my 9 year old designed with a lego sensor which will confirm for sure if they were in FULL regulation (in my case Main3) all the way to their approximated quoted time ... I feel they were up to 4h15' but hard to tell, and whether or not they used Main2 for s short period before staying constant at Main1 for that hour or hour and a half. I will unable to know the actual lumens, but will be able to tell which modes there are as we just calibrated this morning his sensor for all the modes.



highenergyted said:


> With those very high drain capable battery and then after the battery is low. Does it run through the modes ok?


----------



## highenergyted

So whats your thoughts on why the standard batteries fail with this light?
In turbo its dimmer on low battery?
Really they need more supply to get them to run or they may as well be V2s?
Do run times on standard but also state brightness?

On a side note . In the previous order we paid for 5 x grease. They didn't deliver them as I unpacked them myself and found zero grease in the package except on the light threads. So I simply asked them to include it in the next order. Simple solution for a small issue?
No. They refused. Saying they delivered them and a burble regarding some confused reasoning that they didn't deliver it due to extra lights but I had still received it.
So I sent them the invoice that went through customs and the payment proof from the bank matching the invoice....still awaiting the reply.

They said they would refund the lights. I'll let you know if they do.


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## LumenToro

There is no much mystery or anything wrong with this light regarding batteries, it is purely that they did not documented or warn about the fact that the Max2 mode of 2300lum LED naturally needs more than twice the current than your typical 1000 lumens mode, and happens to be right above the typical protection found in "standard" batteries which is about 4A limit, thus the need to inform users and use only either unprotected (only limited by the logic/circuit of the light and the battery itself) or just batteries with a protection circuit rated up to 10A.

Protected batteries are just the same unprotected battery but with a solid state circuit in the tip that limits the current ahead of accidental short circuit - until now 4A was sufficient up to 1000 lumen hardware but this led crossed the threshold. Any new lights from any vendor will be subject to the same electric laws and will suffer the same spec of batteries unless you use two in parallel ... But here we have just one 18650. 

My my light came with plenty grease (almost too much), even inside the magnet ... Magnet that I quickly put away as adds weight and I don't need it.

By the way, I just posted the results of our sensorized capture in the "official" thread for ArmyTek WIZZARD in this forum ("the other WIZZARD thread, because AT does read that one)... Uncallibrated but confirming excellent constant brightness regulation to the rated runtime for Main3 and adding afterwards very usable lower modes for a couple of hours more.

I have not run 1000 or 2000 lumen modes more than a minute since my use case only require brief periods of time during the night while preserving all night Main2 operation. In main 3 it got hot, but could still touch it. Max1 and 2 naturally will get super hot - they claim they will regulate monitoring temperature ... But I don't need to run more than s minute in Max2 so I don't plan to run two hours with those.

I have no experience anything bad or good from them ... But my light looks solid so far.





highenergyted said:


> So whats your thoughts on why the standard batteries fail with this light?
> In turbo its dimmer on low battery?
> Really they need more supply to get them to run or they may as well be V2s?
> Do run times on standard but also state brightness?
> 
> On a side note . In the previous order we paid for 5 x grease. They didn't deliver them as I unpacked them myself and found zero grease in the package except on the light threads. So I simply asked them to include it in the next order. Simple solution for a small issue?
> No. They refused. Saying they delivered them and a burble regarding some confused reasoning that they didn't deliver it due to extra lights but I had still received it.
> So I sent them the invoice that went through customs and the payment proof from the bank matching the invoice....still awaiting the reply.
> 
> They said they would refund the lights. I'll let you know if they do.


----------



## highenergyted

Perhaps you got my grease.. I'd like it back thanks.

Fine but I couldn't even get it past an A1 in 7th mode (1200 lumens)
Not even turbo 1 or 2. Just not enough supply out of the battery or drain to get it, even when fresh out of a charger

the customer is only seeing some 400 lumens at peak output with fresh batteries and in what direction that's going to go real fast.

Descriptions have to be correct in our country and Canada.

I really need a light meter.

When we received the previous wizard version. I tested them and that was an ok light. Performed visibly like the description

I'll do a video with fresh Nitecore 3400mah 3.7v. , the results will be predictably the same failure under consumer protection act.

If I advertised the lights using their description I'd simply be liable. Thats why I really test stuff properly. If it fails its dog tucker

By the way so far armytek has not advised me to use higher amp batteries.


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## LumenToro

Sorry about that - I can only say that mine works fine with the batteries I tested with, with the caveat of Max2 for when for example I tested EagTecs 3400mAh which have the protection circuit tripping. That also created the problem of not been able to get out of Max2 unless you had at hand an unprotected or a 10A protected version like Orbtronics.

So in my case using Obtronics 3500 mAh 10A all seems to work 100%. I have not measured the OTF lumens just their regulation but compared with other lights I have Max1 and 2 are almost for sure in the 1000 and 2000 range, and the Main3 for sure around 500-400 range. My impression is that the lower levels like Main1 and Firefly3 are much much higher than listed but ... hard to tell without a light integration sphere + a callibrated light meter. In our test in the official thread we build a white reflection box with a shoe box with two holes, one for the light and another for the cable of the uncallibrated light sensor.

For my use case (100k or 100 miles mountain runs which end up going through the night ) it might be the absolutely perfect light - although will reserve my final judgement for an all night training run in a month or so.

Good luck.


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## highenergyted

https://youtu.be/Ou0y0ZgVWIY
Wizard receives a whipping from its apprentice
Armytek batteries
Nitecore next.


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## highenergyted

Another armytek customer
https://youtu.be/Uy6cFT6H7Kg


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## highenergyted

https://youtu.be/FQdrwdZgriQ

Simple maths in high modes comparing a Tiara A1 which has a max rating of 420lumens and the XPH50 2300 Lumens. 

So you should be able to see 5 and a half times increase in light.


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## harro

Careful.... A doubling of lumens doesnt mean a doubling of output. There are others here who would be up with the math in this situation. I think its about three times the lumens, for an apparent twice the light output. Possibly the inverse square law applies to this, also.
Anyone.......?


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## SG Hall

It's not mathematical harro, but to simplify a complex thing, apply this rule: 4x the lumens = 2 times the perceived brightness to the human eye. It will vary, but it's a starting point. Personally, I also find a brighter hotspot fools my eye into thinking that there is more lumens. 

So you are correct, it is not linear. You will see a difference but big lumens offer diminishing returns to our perception of brightness.


----------



## clemence

When I was a kid, my parents bought me my first motorcycle. It was a 110cc 2 stroke Yamaha Force-1. I was the first kid with that model in my school. I read in many magazine reviews that the bike top speed reached 115km/h in standard condition. Mine was never get to that speed, topped only 110km/h as displayed in my speedometer.
I blamed my city altitude, wind, and finally my speedometer. Anything just to convince myself that the bike was perfectly normal, those were the external factors that made it slower than what those reviewers stated. Until one day another kid got one.....
We raced, and raced. I could never win no matter how we started the drag races. My bike was defective, something was wrong with the engine.
The morale is: you have to get yourself a good measuring datum in hand to get a simple-brutally honest-time saving-eye opening-mind blowing-satisfying truth.

A simple lux meter in a closed box will get you a good starting point of relative brightness comparison. It's better to paint white all the inside of the box. Tape your lux meter sensor inside and don't let it move. Then place the comparator inside and mark the light source point as accurate as possible. Don't let the light source aimed to the meter, make it bounce first. Keep everything as constant as possible. Don't let the headband/accessories ruin the meter readings, remove it. Then place your new Wizard inside, compare the readout.
That should give you a MUCH better results. Never trust our eyes for any quantitative measurements. The eyes are only good to tell which is brighter/dimmer, inaccurately...


----------



## clemence

Or you can use your camera light sensor to roughly measure the brightness.
Set the light meter to "average" then set all settings to manual "M". Set the aperture fixed in it's highest setting, for example f22. Then you can roughly measure different brightnesses by looking at the speed adjustment sensor (the + and - readings) with various different lighting conditions. For example: set a flashlight with f22 at 1/10. Different mode that gives 1/20 at the same f22 should be approximately 2 times brighter. Bounce reading will get you more consistent results.


----------



## Woods Walker

highenergyted said:


> https://youtu.be/Ou0y0ZgVWIY
> Wizard receives a whipping from its apprentice
> Armytek batteries
> Nitecore next.



Why is the switch flashing red on the tester's light? With the A1 that means minutes from step down etc etc etc so he must know what that means given claimed ownership and comparison testing. I wonder if he noticed the battery was nearly dead?

edit. In fact I can watch it change right in the video from green to yellowish then red. All in a few seconds. In any case I am not going to buy one as happy with the A1.


----------



## harro

SG Hall said:


> It's not mathematical harro, but to simplify a complex thing, apply this rule: 4x the lumens = 2 times the perceived brightness to the human eye. It will vary, but it's a starting point. Personally, I also find a brighter hotspot fools my eye into thinking that there is more lumens.
> 
> So you are correct, it is not linear. You will see a difference but big lumens offer diminishing returns to our perception of brightness.



Thanks SG Hall,
I knew it wasn't linear, but I certainly wasn't sure of how it worked exactly ( eg; My Acebeam K60, 3500lms - 5000lms, appearance to my eye, VERY small increase in output ).

:thumbsup:


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## Woods Walker

highenergyted said:


> Another armytek customer
> https://youtu.be/Uy6cFT6H7Kg



I agree. That looks messed up. Oddly AT demands people make a video for their (hassle free ) warranty unless I am mistaken. Odds are they keep shooting themselves in the foot with that demand as they get posted on Youtube so people can show AT. 



highenergyted said:


> https://youtu.be/FQdrwdZgriQ
> 
> Simple maths in high modes comparing a Tiara A1 which has a max rating of 420lumens and the XPH50 2300 Lumens.
> 
> So you should be able to see 5 and a half times increase in light.



Doesn't work like that.


----------



## highenergyted

No they certainly don't. The little a1 is nearly beating it in some of the videos with same lens. 
Take into account we used to sell their previous v2 1000 lumen light. That light did looked like 1000 lumens compared and we spent time comparing with the Sparks and A1. 
The wizard xhp50 looks exactly like the v2 with these batteries in terms of similar light performance and exact physical appearance of the headlamps. Except for a sticker on the box with XHP50 on it. 
I would have greatly preferred them to work as described. 
They didn't so they went back to china not Canada. They received them on the 24th . Delivery in 4 days.

P.S. It cost me half the cost for freight back to china than they charged to us.


----------



## Woods Walker

highenergyted said:


> No they certainly don't. The little a1 is nearly beating it in some of the videos with same lens.
> Take into account we used to sell their previous v2 1000 lumen light. That light did looked like 1000 lumens compared and we spent time comparing with the Sparks and A1.
> The wizard xhp50 looks exactly like the v2 with these batteries in terms of similar light performance and exact physical appearance of the headlamps. Except for a sticker on the box with XHP50 on it.
> I would have greatly preferred them to work as described.
> They didn't so they went back to china not Canada. They received them on the 24th . Delivery in 4 days.
> 
> P.S. It cost me half the cost for freight back to china than they charged to us.



I was referring to your statement that 5 times the lumens should look 5 times brighter. It doesn't work that way. Either way I am not buying this headlamp.


----------



## highenergyted

Is there any fairly precise enoughperceived light ratio.
On this scale 2300 lumens over 420 what should the increase look like?

Not action so far out of armytek 
NZ POST tracking number EP424030691NZ


----------



## scs

Short of having an integrating sphere, it's relatively more objective to do a ceiling bounce test with a lux meter to compare differences.




highenergyted said:


> Is there any fairly precise enoughperceived light ratio.
> On this scale 2300 lumens over 420 what should the increase look like?
> 
> Not action so far out of armytek
> NZ POST tracking number EP424030691NZ


----------



## Woods Walker

highenergyted said:


> Is there any fairly precise enoughperceived light ratio.
> On this scale 2300 lumens over 420 what should the increase look like?
> 
> Not action so far out of armytek
> NZ POST tracking number EP424030691NZ




I do ceiling bounce test comparing lights of known output. That said an experienced flashlight user tends to know when a light is underperforming the manufacturer's claims if the amount is wide enough. People are probably complaining for a reason.


----------



## clemence

Agree, perceived brightness from small/big - tight/flood focus point light sources are different to our eyes even though the lumens are the same. Ebay/Amazon sells lux meter from as low as USD 10.
For comparison purposes, the cheap stuff still do the job much better than the eyes.


----------



## SubLGT

FYI, Calvin at illumn.com has organized a group buy on this headlamp, over at BLF in the Commercial Sellers Spot forum. Calvin did not post the price. 
I would give a link, but it probably violates one of the many rules here.


----------



## tops2

I posted this on the other forum too..

Pretty awesome light and I like it a lot as my first headlamp. I ended up getting the warm white version.


So far I like most things about it. Its plenty bright and provides a nice floody beam which is missing from my collection of lights.


The light is pretty light weight. The size isn't too large (but a little longer than I expected). I like the feel of Armytek's anodized surface. For now, I've put the clip on and can see the versatility of a headlamp as an EDC. I'm getting used to holding it though as a handheld as I have to angle my hand differently.


I'm so used to the Zebralight UI so the Armytek UI takes a little adjusting to me. In some ways, I like how you can "quickly" switch/use each of the levels in each group (firefly/main/turbo/strobe) instead of having to programming it like in Zebralight. But then switching to different groups requires more clicking vs just long press in Zebralight. So far, I'd say one isn't better than another..just different style.


The only minor grip I have is the warm white is a little too yellow..but its "pretty"/comfy after I turn it up to main 3 (500 lm) or higher. The cool white looks a little too cool to me. But this was only noticeable when I compared them side by side. What swayed me was shining both versions on hands and seeing the color difference.


Also, main1 (100 lm) seems too close to main 2 (210 lm) to me as the light difference isn't that big to my eyes.


Otherwise, fantastic light. I'm glad I gave Armytek another chance.






Forgive me if its mentioned already... I found a "primarily" manual for this version while randomly browsing and visiting links to different forums regarding this light. I also found the manual via googling Armytek Wizard Pro v3 manual.


Regarding the blinking and voltage indicator.. I'm not exactly sure if this is correct, but its what I'm inferring from the text and the diagrams.


When the battery is from 50%-100%, it'll blink green every 5 seconds.
When the battery drops to 50%, it'll blink yellow every 5 seconds.
When the battery drops to 25%, it'll blink orange every 2 seconds.
When the battery drops to 10%, it'll blink red every 1 second.


But I guess there can be some confusion since orange and red is used for high temperature indication too.


----------



## MX421

Anyway, FYI


LumenToro said:


> Finally received mine. First Impressions ... pending longer runtime tests - pure basic function test at this point.
> *BE VERY AWARE OF ...*
> 
> The issues to be AWARE of BEFORE you buy so that you prepare for it. IF you plan it is NO PROBLEM, but if you don't plan due to the lack of information of their website or manual, then you will get in trouble quickly.
> 
> We all expected this, so it is not a complain and found a solution, *will my pre-existing 18650 batteries work?:*
> 
> *(A) Eagtac 3400mAh which are PROTECTED at 4-6A. *
> 
> a.1 EXPECTED RESULT1: As reported in this forum, but now confirmed now in person, works fine to all modes but the MAX2 (the 2000+ lm) - that trips the protection after 1sec. If they documented this on their website and manual, I would not have a problem with it.
> AT, come on, the above, although not unreasonable given the fact MAX2 needs more than 4A, in my opinion should be WARNED in their website and in their manual as not all users have a MS in EEE.
> a.3 BIG UNEXPECTED WARNING: Here is the issue that you NEED TO PLAN BEFORE HAND, and on that I will not give AT a pass as I did above: WARNING!!!! After you trip in MAX2 a non-optimum protected battery, you have to unscrew all the way and back ... but here is the real problem - the light gets stuck in the last mode of MAX2 ON! Why is that a problem? well, maybe I am missing something, but after my first tests got the expected MAX2 tripping the battery protection, you are STUCK in MAX2 Turned On in the light the moment you reinsert and screw in the battery which means that unless you have an unprotected battery or a high drain protected at hand, you CANNOT get the light long enough to use the UI to toggle back to MAX1 or other working modes. Maybe there is some secret UI thing, but really you will never get that far to use the UI so ... that is a BIG NO NO ... as if your only battery at hand is the one you used, then you are dead in the water ... They should correct that by detecting battery driven power cut and not memorizing the last mode in such condition by switching to a different mode maybe .. no excuse. Still, if you know this, you just use a different battery ... but this is going to catch a lot of people and will make them fume in forums while they get the right battery. Of course we need and like auto-memory but only if NOT power tripped last.
> 
> *NOW THE GOOD NEWS*
> 
> *(B) Fortunately, expecting the Eagtec to be borderline for protection based on reports on this forum, I had ordered Orbtronics 3500mAh featuring higher 10A protection circuit.*
> b.1 I inserted one and was able to support MAX2 no problem, and finally use the UI to switch it down. Then I could use it again with the lower drain batteries if I wanted, ... but will never do that since you run the danger of getting into MAX2 and getting stuck. So basically, never use any other batteries that high drain with or without protection.
> b.2 I have not run them for a long time, but all looks that you can run this PROTECTED batteries as a perfect partner for this light MAX2 because they are rated at 10A protection. Still, let me run a full run test next week and I will confirm that the battery model is the right choice, but they look like they are after running them for few minutes.
> *
> FIRST IMPRESSION/CONCLUSION
> *
> GREAT BEST OF CLASS light, ... *if partnered with the right battery *(only 10A protection or unprotected). I prefer the extra safety of using protection at subcomponent level. Still, having a user case in which you can get stuck with no way out by simply using a slightly less optimum battery... makes any battery other that the 10A protected or unprotected NOT suitable to use. They should state this IN BOLD RED in a new manual and in the website.
> 
> At least I did my home work and got the batteries that seemed to fit the need. So I am A-ok.
> 
> Anyway, for me, with Orbtronics batteries (by the way - I am impressed: they shipped PERFECTLY, with a perfect storage box ... great company - they just won a customer for life). If they work in longer run tests next week will report here - PERFECT flashlight, but it is a petty that for not documenting the above and having a use case that could get stuck in MAX2 they don't get 10 of 10 score, if the above is fixed, then I will give them 11 of 10.
> 
> Great choice, but *BE AWARE *of getting the right battery at home BEFORE you received it.
> 
> Will report how well it runs with long use and confirm or not 100% that the protecting orbtronics are the right match.



I bought one of these to compare with a v3 XP-L i got earlier that seemed okay (am aware of Armytek QA issues so was wary). I mainly use some lower capacity (ie 2000 to 2500 mAH) unprotected cells, but i also have a few good protected batteries of varying capacities. Anyway, I was using both light to put some (okay allot!) light on something i was working on after dark (I had both on turbo). The XHP50, kicked down in output pretty quick, then went lower and lower until at about medium. The v3 XP-L, may have kicked down to high, but was double the brightness of the XHP50. The XHP50 seemed to be struggling to get back to high and kept cycling in between the medium and various versions of high. 

I bought from Andrew and Amanda thinking i was covered from the horrible "hassle free" Armytek customer service i've heard so much about. Unfortunately, they shifted me to Armytek who blamed the battery.

Since then i did a side by side test (with matched unprotected batteries) which resulted in the XHP50 again lowering its output at around 3 minutes (i measured the temperature at around 127 F where the XP-L was at 125 F)). This time the XHP-50 stayed at around medium (it looked about half as bright as the XP-L) where the temperature was at 125 F. The XP-L kicked its butt staying in high (at around 125 F) for a 50 minute duration when the XP-L finally shifted down to a lower mode (like most of the lights i had). The XHP-50 shifted to low at about the same time. I called the test over at that point and reloaded batteries.

Then i went to the pool and tested the lights along with a couple of Zebralights. Unfortunately i forgot to use like batteries in the Zebras, so i couldn't compare them in kind. BTW, this time i used some AW protected cells in the Wizards. Anyway, both the V3 Wizards went for 25 minutes in the water without shifting down to lower modes. At that point i took them out and within a couple minutes, the XHP50 shifted down to a lower mode (probably around mid high mode). To me, this told me it was the XHP50 heat management system.

I emailed my results, but AT seems to think its a "feature" of the light to do this. If it stayed at a higher mode, I'd tend to agree with them, but for it to be so much dimmer than its XP-L brother, i think the heat management system they have on this light is pretty crappy. Anyway, FYI for those in the market. Its still not over for me since it was bought from A&A, however, AT's stance on this so far pretty much sucks.


----------



## start90a

None has outdoor beamshots for Wizard XHP50 CW against the NW (that seems to be WW, with a yellowing tint) or other lights? Cause I've concluded that NW version is too warm for me, but not sure about the cool one would be enough neutral.


----------



## gyzmo2002

Wizard Pro XHP50 CW at highest mode (turbo2)


----------



## start90a

Tanks a lot Gizmo, but without a comparison I cannot get the real feel of the tint


----------



## mdocod

Hey guys, 

I just received one of the new XHP50 Pro Warm Wizards as a warranty replacement for a V2 that developed a problem. (suddenly lost access to main mode group after a year of fairly heavy use). 

Like I did with my original V2, for curiosities sake, I did some electrical measurements so that I could have more precise run-time estimations for each mode. From power consumption and cree data sheets and estimations of driver and optic efficiency, we can also estimate torch lumens.

Results: (run-time estimation based on NCR18650B)

FF1: ~0.0026W. ~200 days. a fraction of a lumen. 
FF2: ~0.014W. ~36 days. ~2lm
FF3: ~0.05W. ~10 days. ~7lm
M1: ~0.6W. ~20 hours. ~80lm
M2: ~1.2W, ~10 hours. ~160lm
M3: ~3W. ~4 hours. ~350lm
T1: ~8W. ~90 min. ~700lm (initial output may be higher).
T2: ~19W. ~30 min (cumulative from intermittent runs). ~1400lm. (initial output may be higher)

T1 appears similar to the old XM-L2 V2 model's turbo mode in use, but comes with improved efficiency that makes this mode more practical for actual use. T2 is pure novelty and is even more impractical than the turbo modes on previous generation Wizards. FF1 is subjectively dimmer on the XHP50 model than on previous generation wizards. Reduced driver efficiency is suspected at this drive level. (for those who are always looking for a dimmer firefly mode, this is a nice change). 

I wish MainMode 1 were a little dimmer and a little longer lived. The gap from FF3 to MM1 is a lot wider than I would have picked. 

Overall, I like the new XHP50 version. It will work just fine for my many use's.


----------



## davidt1

mdocod,

Nice work on the run time tests! Maybe I am slow, but that's easier for me to read and understand than the pretty graphs shown in the light review section. Not an Armytek owner, but want to say thanks nonetheless.


----------



## SubLGT

A brave person over at BLF has sacrificed his new Wizard, and disassembled it, and posted some photos.
See post #162: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/45819?page=5


----------



## scs

mdocod said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I just received one of the new XHP50 Pro Warm Wizards as a warranty replacement for a V2 that developed a problem. (suddenly lost access to main mode group after a year of fairly heavy use).
> 
> Like I did with my original V2, for curiosities sake, I did some electrical measurements so that I could have more precise run-time estimations for each mode. From power consumption and cree data sheets and estimations of driver and optic efficiency, we can also estimate torch lumens.
> 
> Results: (run-time estimation based on NCR18650B)
> 
> FF1: ~0.0026W. ~200 days. a fraction of a lumen.
> FF2: ~0.014W. ~36 days. ~2lm
> FF3: ~0.05W. ~10 days. ~7lm
> M1: ~0.6W. ~20 hours. ~80lm
> M2: ~1.2W, ~10 hours. ~160lm
> M3: ~3W. ~4 hours. ~350lm
> T1: ~8W. ~90 min. ~700lm (initial output may be higher).
> T2: ~19W. ~30 min (cumulative from intermittent runs). ~1400lm. (initial output may be higher)
> 
> T1 appears similar to the old XM-L2 V2 model's turbo mode in use, but comes with improved efficiency that makes this mode more practical for actual use. T2 is pure novelty and is even more impractical than the turbo modes on previous generation Wizards. FF1 is subjectively dimmer on the XHP50 model than on previous generation wizards. Reduced driver efficiency is suspected at this drive level. (for those who are always looking for a dimmer firefly mode, this is a nice change).
> 
> I wish MainMode 1 were a little dimmer and a little longer lived. The gap from FF3 to MM1 is a lot wider than I would have picked.
> 
> Overall, I like the new XHP50 version. It will work just fine for my many use's.



I was informed that the spec'ed output for M1 was supposed to be around 40 lumens, but the driver whined, so AT increased the output.


----------



## Woods Walker

I wasn't going to get it but now considering one. Any major issues or complaints? How is the tint on the warm.


----------



## tops2

Woods Walker said:


> I wasn't going to get it but now considering one. Any major issues or complaints? How is the tint on the warm.



I haven't used mine in a few weeks but the only minor complaint I had was more UI (I'm more used to Zebralight UI). To switch groups is either double click or triple click. It felt like when I'm in the mood to switch up modes or testing brightness, I'm clicking so much. But once I'm happy with a level it doesn't matter.

A disclaimer is I prefer neutral white at around 5000k (4500k is okay too but starting to get too yellow for me). The warm to me is too warm. At lower lumens, it feels so dim and everything has a dirty yellow tinge. On higher levels it's really nice and comforting, but definitely warm. But I use my lights at lower levels a lot and don't like the dirty yellow tinge. But as always, this is just my personal preference.


----------



## Woods Walker

tops2 said:


> I haven't used mine in a few weeks but the only minor complaint I had was more UI (I'm more used to Zebralight UI). To switch groups is either double click or triple click. It felt like when I'm in the mood to switch up modes or testing brightness, I'm clicking so much. But once I'm happy with a level it doesn't matter.
> 
> A disclaimer is I prefer neutral white at around 5000k (4500k is okay too but starting to get too yellow for me). The warm to me is too warm. At lower lumens, it feels so dim and everything has a dirty yellow tinge. On higher levels it's really nice and comforting, but definitely warm. But I use my lights at lower levels a lot and don't like the dirty yellow tinge. But as always, this is just my personal preference.



Thanks. My other AT lights are really warm which is ok for me. What battery are you using?


----------



## gyzmo2002

NCR18650GA unprotected or LG HG2 in my two Wizard XHP-50 White. The Wizard is more on the neutral side compare to my tiara A1 white that is more CW.


----------



## clemence

tops2 said:


> I haven't used mine in a few weeks but the only minor complaint I had was more UI (I'm more used to Zebralight UI). To switch groups is either double click or triple click. It felt like when I'm in the mood to switch up modes or testing brightness, I'm clicking so much. But once I'm happy with a level it doesn't matter.
> 
> A disclaimer is I prefer neutral white at around 5000k (4500k is okay too but starting to get too yellow for me). The warm to me is too warm. At lower lumens, it feels so dim and everything has a dirty yellow tinge. On higher levels it's really nice and comforting, but definitely warm. But I use my lights at lower levels a lot and don't like the dirty yellow tinge. But as always, this is just my personal preference.



A quick fix would be to use LED colour gel from Lee Filter. You can get the swatch sampler for free. Once you get the right filter, you can either cut the swatch or order a sheet (should be enough for many wizards)


----------



## Woods Walker

I just got the HXP-50 Wizard warm in the mail. Sadly my order from another seller for new batteries and charger didn't come yet so tested it out with a Keep power protected 3200 mAh standard 18650 (not the high drain). First the tint is wonderful. Now I am a warm tint person so keep that in mind but this hits the nail on the head. Reminds me of the tint from my old H501w and TK20 aka XR-E old school. Ok yea LED type doesn't equal tint however not all neutral white looks the same. This one is perfect for the warmer side of NW. Yea know, the good without the green shade. Prefer it to the Tiara pro warm tint which is also good. As for the video showing the 1XAA XM-L being just as bright compered to the HXP-50. Nope. Not even close. I suspect the person has a battery issue. My battery isn't high drain (near as I can tell) so only ran it for a few seconds on max turbo however max turbo or normal turbo the XHP-50 rocks the house. Not even a contest though again I like my Tiara A1 but dang...... WOW!

Also I think firefly 3 might be a good low output camp mode. Seems lower than M1 on the Tiara but high enough to do cooking etc. Will test that out during my next trip.

Edit. Also Main 2 on the XHP-50 looks to my eyes like 30 lumens as stated on the manual.


----------



## Woods Walker

Ok so what did we do today. First did a 9.25 mile trail run as in full out run.









Despite holding nothing back I wasn't satisfied as needed a night hike to test the new Wizard. Hit the trail again. Twice in one day. LOL!





Compared the Tiara pro (I removed the magnetic tail cap for a standard) XM-L2 NW to HXP-50 NW. 





This isn't a review just my initial first outing impressions.

1. Confirmed. The Main 2 of the Tiara is brighter than M1 on the HXP-50. I don't question the claims it's 100 lumens but on mine looks like what AT says on my manual 30 (I think it's 40 but not sure). I have read other stats saying it was indeed 100. But no way.

2. Incredibly bright to the point of the turbo modes being novitiates. WOW! 

3. Tint rocks even better outside. 

4. Seemed comfortable and didn't flop around that much during a slow jog. I didn't sprint fast as didn't want to push it for the second outing of the day. 

That's all for now.


----------



## scs

Woods Walker said:


> Confirmed. The Main 2 of the Tiara is brighter than M1 on the HXP-50. I don't question the claims it's 100 lumens but on mine looks like what AT says on my manual 30 (I think it's 40 but not sure). I have read other stats saying it was indeed 100. But no way.



You might have gotten one from a newer batch that fixed the problem. AT confirmed they had had to bump up the output of M1 to around 100 LED lumens to eliminate driver whine.
Good for you, because 100 is too bright for up close, yet not bright enough for further away. It's a bit of a wasted mode on mine.


----------



## Woods Walker

scs said:


> You might have gotten one from a newer batch that fixed the problem. AT confirmed they had had to bump up the output of M1 to around 100 LED lumens to eliminate driver whine.
> Good for you, because 100 is too bright for up close, yet not bright enough for further away. It's a bit of a wasted mode on mine.



Not sure and only using my eyes but no question it's dimmer than the Tiara M2. I like the mode though only tested the light with one battery etc.


----------



## Woods Walker

Also adding the manual explains that the turbo modes need unprotected or 7A min PCB. Tested it out against a C1 XM-L2 in M2 vs HXP50 Wizard V3 M1. Both warm. No way the Wizard M1 is 100 lumens. Any it really appears to be 30 or so lumens like the manual states. Anyone else verify this? Also there might be a problem with that mode. The light seems to have a micro flash when the green power LED goes off aka the main led matches that for a split second. I noticed it the other day but thought it was my imagination. It's so fast if yea blink I miss it but if not my eye catches it. Going to charge the battery to make sure it's not that. If it continues it will be unacceptable as it's distracting. The main LED shouldn't flash at the same time as the green led. Will charge the battery and test again tomorrow. Sometimes issues are battery related.

Edit. Ok it seemed like it might have been improved after battery change or maybe it was visual feed back from the green flashlight light. Or maybe it does have a slight flash. Not sure but will keep an eye on it. Dang tint is really nice!


----------



## start90a

My wizard pro XHP50 warm sample received last week has an M1 of 30 lumen as stated in the new manual available on official site.
Was said that on firsts batches cause of an electronic problem that level was shifted to 100 lumen, probably is solved now.
Unfortunately I think had noticed main LED flashes too, but not sure when it appears.

Made also a ceiling bounce test that showed 1500 OTF lumen (in comparison Skilhunt H03 nw showed 900 lumen and SC63 1480 lumen).


----------



## clemence

Yup, Armytek finally improves.
- Manual now come as standard package
- Brightness levels are now consistent (I can only say the relative RATIO for now, Integrating Sphere test will prove the stated OTF) to the manual
A piece of whatever paper is simple to print and exxxtremely cheap investment for users with no experience with lights (or internet connection).
Keep it up AT

- Better late (and slow) rather than forgotten -


----------



## Woods Walker

start90a said:


> My wizard pro XHP50 warm sample received last week has an M1 of 30 lumen as stated in the new manual available on official site.
> Was said that on firsts batches cause of an electronic problem that level was shifted to 100 lumen, probably is solved now.
> Unfortunately I think had noticed main LED flashes too, but not sure when it appears.
> 
> Made also a ceiling bounce test that showed 1500 OTF lumen (in comparison Skilhunt H03 nw showed 900 lumen and SC63 1480 lumen).



It might flash at that M1 mode. It's just so slight but something is distracting me on occasion when using then light on the M1 mode. But if it is there is's really a rapid thing. It might happen when the green light flashes but I couldn't see it reliably so not sure. Has anyone else seen this mystery flash during use on the 30 lumen M1 mode...which is really 30 lumens.


----------



## Woods Walker

Dang. I think the main LED does flash on M1. Using it now with battery fresh off charger. It's like a flicker when the green light fires. Dang. Might have to call Armytek. Anyone else seeing this again only on the M1 mode with true 30 lumens.


----------



## start90a

Yes, my sample does the same thing. Also in firefly mode indicator led flashes quickly but very weakly.
A little worried about it, but I'm not going to change the light right now. I need this headlamp, so I hope this will not be a real problem or, worst case, I rely on warranty service in future, if will be necessary.


----------



## Woods Walker

start90a said:


> Yes, my sample does the same thing. Also in firefly mode indicator led flashes quickly but very weakly.
> A little worried about it, but I'm not going to change the light right now. I need this headlamp, so I hope this will not be a real problem or, worst case, I rely on warranty service in future, if will be necessary.



Nope. Not going to accept it as is. I despise flickering lights and this one is doing it just at the edge of my perception which makes me blink. I noticed it during a first outing testing but couldn't put my finger on what was wrong. thought it was my imagination. I do night bouldering and sometimes climbing. I can't afford any distractions. Dang it's the prefect headlamp in terms of modes and tint. LOL! Here is how it was tested to determine the flicker as it's so fast and timed directly with the green indicator light I wanted to rule out the output from that interfering with the determination. 









Tested with these batteries to eliminate battery issues.





As for the indicator light on firefly it would only blink on the highest firefly setting which is 5 or so lumens. That is ok as it's not needed for the very low modes however it would blink 3 times then stop blinking. I don't really care about that issue as never found that feature useful anyways but dang. I mean dang. A flickering headlamp. Nope. Not doing that.


----------



## Woods Walker

Another interesting thing. Not sure if anyone knows but the always on state indicator function doesn't work. It does work but only allows press and hold activation of the light aka press and hold the switch for last mode used and that's it. Once switch is released the light goes out. I think it somehow gets into tactical mode.

Edit. I got the always on state indicator function to work. Kinda cool!

edit again. But still has that annoying micro flicker in the 30 lumen mode. Bummer. I was hoping maybe changing this around would somehow fix it. No flicker in the lower firefly modes during the constant on state indicator or higher but still same issue with the 30. Dang that's my favorite mode. What so difficult about that setting anyways? LOL! Seems to been a source of problems from the get go. Tell you all one thing. Once this is all straightened out I am going to use the constant indicator for hikes etc to help mitigate a lost light


----------



## gyzmo2002

Woods Walker said:


> Dang. I think the main LED does flash on M1. Using it now with battery fresh off charger. It's like a flicker when the green light fires. Dang. Might have to call Armytek. Anyone else seeing this again only on the M1 mode with true 30 lumens.



No I don't have this issue on any of my 2 Wizard XHP.

On firefly 1-2-3, the green led flashes 3 times only.


----------



## Woods Walker

gyzmo2002 said:


> No I don't have this issue on any of my 2 Wizard XHP.
> 
> On firefly 1-2-3, the green led flashes 3 times only.



Yup I get the 3 flashes for 1-2-3. Do you have the true 30 lumen m1 mode. Near as I can tell that's the only problem with mine. A fast faint flicker on M1 which matches the green indicator light. No other mode shows that for me.


----------



## gyzmo2002

Woods Walker said:


> Yup I get the 3 flashes for 1-2-3. Do you have the true 30 lumen m1 mode. Near as I can tell that's the only problem with mine. A fast faint flicker on M1 which matches the green indicator light. No other mode shows that for me.



I would say 100lm...a bit more than the M2(70lm) of my Tiara A1 with 14500 cell.


----------



## Woods Walker

gyzmo2002 said:


> I would say 100lm...a bit more than the M2(70lm) of my Tiara A1 with 14500 cell.



Mine is considerably less than my Tiara A1 with 14500, so it's 30 lumens. So given another person who has the true 30 lumen mode also has the same issue they must have failed to properly correct whatever was the initial problem or created a new problem in place of the old. Beyond being M1 of the second mode settings not sure what's so difficult about getting the 30 lumen mode right. Armytek gave me the service center email so will update the forum as this progresses.


----------



## target4fun

Seems like 1600 lum would get pretty hot pretty quick. Maybe I am wrong. You could always turn it down I guess, options are nice.


----------



## scs

target4fun said:


> Seems like 1600 lum would get pretty hot pretty quick. Maybe I am wrong. You could always turn it down I guess, options are nice.



It does. My sample got as hot as 140 degrees F before leveling off and maintaining 130+ degrees F.


----------



## delerious

I got mine a week ago (didn't come with a manual), and got my charger today, so I've been playing with it tonight. It looks like mine is the 100 lumen M1 version instead of 30 lumen. This is my first LED flashlight so I'm hardly an expert at lumens, but there doesn't seem to be much of a jump between M1 and M2. I wonder if you can get a replacement under the warranty if you want the 30 lumen M1?

Firefly1 is so dim I can't really see anything - it seems like a useless mode to me.

Also, has anyone used this in a dusty environment? Armytek says it's supposed to be dust proof, but I wanted to hear from the forum users. I'm planning on using this in the attic to sprinkle around a lot of insecticide powder to take care of a silverfish infestation. Hope none of that dust gets through the power switch or any other way.


----------



## scs

delerious said:


> I got mine a week ago (didn't come with a manual), and got my charger today, so I've been playing with it tonight. It looks like mine is the 100 lumen M1 version instead of 30 lumen. This is my first LED flashlight so I'm hardly an expert at lumens, but there doesn't seem to be much of a jump between M1 and M2. I wonder if you can get a replacement under the warranty if you want the 30 lumen M1?
> 
> Firefly1 is so dim I can't really see anything - it seems like a useless mode to me.
> 
> Also, has anyone used this in a dusty environment? Armytek says it's supposed to be dust proof, but I wanted to hear from the forum users. I'm planning on using this in the attic to sprinkle around a lot of insecticide powder to take care of a silverfish infestation. Hope none of that dust gets through the power switch or any other way.



Yup, sounds like you got the older batch. I'm curious whether AT would worry about setting a precedence by letting you exchange yours for that reason, because lots of people have the older version. That could mean a lot of returned lights and lost profits. Then there's the new issue WW has discovered. If that's typical, people might not want a replacement only to have a new problem.

So silly the 2 options on the AT menu: not as advertised or partially defective, which do you want?

If there's one thing I can't complain about my AT lights, it's their waterproofness. I'm pretty sure if water can't get in, then dust can't either.


----------



## Woods Walker

Made my hassle free warranty video for Armtek. Sent it to Sandra. Not my best video work as just used the iPhone but it does show the slight (and annoying during use) flicker on M1 30 lumen mode. On the other issue AT does say it can change the specs of their lights at any time however if it says 30 lumens on the advertising it was purchased from and you get 100 that's a no go IMHO. Lights are often purchased based on modes etc. For example this is that's listed at the seller I got it from at time of purchase.


Turbo2 = 2150 (1h), Turbo1 = 1250lm (1h40min), 500lm (4h10min),210lm (10h40мin), 40lm (50h), 7lm (12d), 2lm (40d), 0.25lm (200d), Strobe3: 10Hz, Turbo2, 2h; Strobe2: 1Hz, Turbo2, 3.5h; Strobe2: 1Hz, Main2, 35h

On the AT site.

Turbo2 = 1800 (1h), Turbo1 = 900lm (1h40min), 390lm (4h), 165lm (10,5h), 30lm (50h), 5,5lm (40d), 1,5lm (40d), 0,15lm (200d), Strobe3, Strobe2, Strobe1

Now there are typos and differences, maybe emitter vs out front however if someone was expecting 30/40 based on advertising from both the seller and AT but got 100 that's not right. The runtime differences between 100 and 30 are taken into account by some people within their determination. There is a BIG difference in field effectiveness and use between 30 and 100. Now some might not care and that's cool Personally I would prefer a properly working 100 to a 30 with a flicker but then again this shouldn't be an issue for a gear item sold on the pros of reliability etc etc etc.


----------



## scs

Yeah, I wanted that 40 lumen mode. But no biggie. 10 years is a long time. I'm sure the light will stop working way before then, and I will have a stronger case for a replacement.


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## delerious

scs said:


> Yeah, I wanted that 40 lumen mode. But no biggie. 10 years is a long time. I'm sure the light will stop working way before then, and I will have a stronger case for a replacement.



I wonder if they give you a new one under the warranty, or a refurbished one. If you wait too long, they won't even make this model anymore, so it'll have to be a repair. Depending on what breaks, they may not fix the M1 to be 30-40 lumens.


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## scs

delerious said:


> I wonder if they give you a new one under the warranty, or a refurbished one. If you wait too long, they won't even make this model anymore, so it'll have to be a repair. Depending on what breaks, they may not fix the M1 to be 30-40 lumens.



Let's hope that by the time it breaks, AT is still in business and offering an even better model.


----------



## MattSPL

delerious said:


> I got mine a week ago (didn't come with a manual), and got my charger today, so I've been playing with it tonight. It looks like mine is the 100 lumen M1 version instead of 30 lumen. This is my first LED flashlight so I'm hardly an expert at lumens, but there doesn't seem to be much of a jump between M1 and M2. I wonder if you can get a replacement under the warranty if you want the 30 lumen M1?
> 
> Firefly1 is so dim I can't really see anything - it seems like a useless mode to me.
> 
> Also, has anyone used this in a dusty environment? Armytek says it's supposed to be dust proof, but I wanted to hear from the forum users. I'm planning on using this in the attic to sprinkle around a lot of insecticide powder to take care of a silverfish infestation. Hope none of that dust gets through the power switch or any other way.



My Wizard pro gets used daily in work(electrician), often while cutting brick or concrete walls, so it's well able for the dust.
the first o'ring gets very dirty over time, but nothing gets past it to the 2nd o'ring.


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## Woods Walker

Looks like they will be sending me a new light. The process so far hasn't been so bad. They made sure it wasn't a battery issues etc first. The video was easy as just used my phone. Took all of 30 seconds and a few emails back and forth. Will keep this thread updated as still in the process. They seemed very polite etc etc.

on the issues of heat. Yes the light gets hot but well, it is brighter than a car headlamp but on your head so..... Well.. Lol


----------



## Lumencrazy

delerious said:


> I got mine a week ago (didn't come with a manual), and got my charger today, so I've been playing with it tonight. It looks like mine is the 100 lumen M1 version instead of 30 lumen. This is my first LED flashlight so I'm hardly an expert at lumens, but there doesn't seem to be much of a jump between M1 and M2. I wonder if you can get a replacement under the warranty if you want the 30 lumen M1?
> 
> Firefly1 is so dim I can't really see anything - it seems like a useless mode to me.
> 
> Also, has anyone used this in a dusty environment? Armytek says it's supposed to be dust proof, but I wanted to hear from the forum users. I'm planning on using this in the attic to sprinkle around a lot of insecticide powder to take care of a silverfish infestation. Hope none of that dust gets through the power switch or any other way.



Wake up in a dark tent in the middle of the night when nature calls and that low firefly mode is more than enough light to find your shoes and clothes without waking up anyone else. Also easy on you eyes. You will also not loose your night vision. My light is always set at that low mode. Not usless, but in fact the most practical.


----------



## Sledgestone

Just got my Wizard pro CW and I love everything about it except that it has the greenest tint out of all my other lights. Is this a common problem with this light? Or did I just have bad luck with the tint lottery?


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## scs

Sledgestone said:


> Just got my Wizard pro CW and I love everything about it except that it has the greenest tint out of all my other lights. Is this a common problem with this light? Or did I just have bad luck with the tint lottery?



My Warm version strangely doesn't appear noticeably green, but casts a green tint on objects, especially skin. Even more strange, another light that does appear green next to the warm one, doesn't cast a green tint. I think it's a Cree characteristic.


----------



## Sledgestone

Haha, that sounds very weird


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## Woods Walker

I have seen the tints from two of the HXP-50 wizards in warm and they seem like very good NW tinted lights though tint is within the eye of the beholder. I am really pleased with the tint. In fact more so than my other ArmyTek lights in NW.


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## TheGrave

Guys, how do you comment on this one:

https://eu.nkon.nl/armytek-wizard-pro-v3-xhp50-led.html


What bothers me is that the text in the PDF linked there (latest manual by Armytek which is NOT published on their official website...guess why):

https://www.nkon.nl/sk/k/Wizard-Pro-v3-XHP-en.pdf



> With ambient temperature +25°C the flashlight delivers light in Maximum mode for about 6-10 minutes and then the brightness decreases by 35%.
> 
> After cooling-down (provided that battery voltage is sufficient) the brightness increases to the Maximum mode again. This stepping goes
> cyclically to maintain the user's safety and the flashlight's functionality. In conditions of good air-cooling the flashlight delivers constant light even in Maximum mode.



This contradicts severely with the tests performed by NKON:



> It is obvious that the Wizard Pro will get very hot when it is producing 2300 LED lumen. So it switches down to 1250 LED lumen after a little bit. It will still remain quite hot in this lower mode.
> 
> When starting on 1250 LED lumen the Wizard will stay there for about an hour and then switch down to 500 LED lumen. At that time it will be quite hot. In the 500 LED lumen mode it will cool down nicely. So the heat protection is for preserving the LED lifetime and not so much for protecting your fingers.



I verified with them - tests were done a few months back (my guess after June's batch release) and manual is about half an year old.

Can you confirm you experience similar results? Obviously, ambient temperature is a key factor here but to me it seems you get a 1250 lumen light good for 1h in average ambient temp conditions which steps down even further after that.


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## jirik_cz

The latest manual is published on Armytek website here. The manual on nknon website is an old version.

I have measured the output of the September version of Wizard Pro XHP50 (White) in my styrofoam sphere. I have used unprotected high current Acebeam 18650 2500 mAh, which should handle current up to 20A.

My sample has over 1500 lumens in the turbo2 mode (rated as 1800 OTF lumens by Armytek) and over 700 lumens in the turbo 1 mode (rated 900 OTF lumens by Armytek).

Here is the full runtime in turbo2 with cooling fan on, and off. I have also measured turbo1, but only with cooling fan on.







And here is the detail of first 35 minutes






As you can see, the light is temperature regulated. At the beginning of runtime, it decreases and increases the output in small steps until it reaches some kind of temperature/output equilibrium.


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## TheGrave

These are very interesting results, thanks for sharing them with us!

There is something I don't understand though in graph 1 - lumen output drops to nearly zero with fan ON around 37th minute or so but stays around 500lm with fan OFF for 100 mins? That doesn't make much sense.

I assume this an external fan you use to blow on the headlamp? Environment is what, room temp around 20 degrees C?

Btw what is this styrofoam sphere you are talking about, some device to measure luminosity? Excuse my ignorance, I'm still a newbie here


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## scs

TheGrave said:


> These are very interesting results, thanks for sharing them with us!
> 
> There is something I don't understand though in graph 1 - lumen output drops to nearly zero with fan ON around 37th minute or so but stays around 500lm with fan OFF for 100 mins? That doesn't make much sense.
> 
> I assume this an external fan you use to blow on the headlamp? Environment is what, room temp around 20 degrees C?
> 
> Btw what is this styrofoam sphere you are talking about, some device to measure luminosity? Excuse my ignorance, I'm still a newbie here



With cooling (solid blue line) light maintains much higher output than without cooling (red line), hence draining cell faster, and reducing runtime.


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## TheGrave

scs said:


> With cooling (solid blue line) light maintains much higher output than without cooling (red line), hence draining cell faster, and reducing runtime.



First 35 mins - yes, on the second graph. I'm talking about the first graph.


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## jirik_cz

TheGrave said:


> These are very interesting results, thanks for sharing them with us!
> 
> There is something I don't understand though in graph 1 - lumen output drops to nearly zero with fan ON around 37th minute or so but stays around 500lm with fan OFF for 100 mins? That doesn't make much sense.
> 
> I assume this an external fan you use to blow on the headlamp? Environment is what, room temp around 20 degrees C?



The room temperature was around 22 degrees C. 

As scs said, the headlamp automatically lowers the output without cooling. Which means lower drain from the cell, so it can run longer (but with lower output) without cooling.

With cooling, the cell is already empty after those 35 minutes.



TheGrave said:


> Btw what is this styrofoam sphere you are talking about, some device to measure luminosity? Excuse my ignorance, I'm still a newbie here



Homemade integrating sphere for measurement of luminous flux. I use four flashlights measured in professional sphere for calibration.


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## delerious

Woods Walker said:


> Looks like they will be sending me a new light. The process so far hasn't been so bad. They made sure it wasn't a battery issues etc first. The video was easy as just used my phone. Took all of 30 seconds and a few emails back and forth. Will keep this thread updated as still in the process. They seemed very polite etc etc.



Did you get a replacement with the 30 lumen M1 that doesn't flicker?


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## Woods Walker

delerious said:


> Did you get a replacement with the 30 lumen M1 that doesn't flicker?


Yup. I am not 100% sure the flicker is totally gone in the new one but I can't really see it (well actually I can when the battery gets lower on a white wall but...well not a show stopper) so calling that a win. I like the mode spacing of the new UI which I think might be now included in the Tiara if I am to believe the stats. A 30-40 lumen mode was one of my wishes.


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## ytsapikau

Just bought Armytek XHP50, it arrived yesterday, used it only for 30 minutes, now it is not responding.
It did not fall, no other damages... just does not respond... 

Did anybody else had similar issues?


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## Toolboxkid

ytsapikau said:


> Just bought Armytek XHP50, it arrived yesterday, used it only for 30 minutes, now it is not responding.
> It did not fall, no other damages... just does not respond...
> 
> Did anybody else had similar issues?



Are you using protected cells? May have tripped just thinking.


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## xtibi

ytsapikau said:


> Just bought Armytek XHP50, it arrived yesterday, used it only for 30 minutes, now it is not responding.
> It did not fall, no other damages... just does not respond...
> 
> Did anybody else had similar issues?


The same thing happened to me after ~1 hour of use. Sent back to Armytek and get a replacement. They say was the electonics. Also they gave me 15 $ back for the shipping return.


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## moshow9

ytsapikau said:


> Just bought Armytek XHP50, it arrived yesterday, used it only for 30 minutes, now it is not responding.
> It did not fall, no other damages... just does not respond...
> 
> Did anybody else had similar issues?





xtibi said:


> The same thing happened to me after ~1 hour of use. Sent back to Armytek and get a replacement. They say was the electonics. Also they gave me 15 $ back for the shipping return.



Out of curiosity, what modes were you using when it stopped responding? And when you mean stopped responding did it shutoff and not turn back on, or was it something where it remained stuck in a current mode and could not be changed?


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## moshow9

I am going to email Armytek later and see if I can capture it on video but mine has some odd behavior. I received my Wizard Pro XHP50 Warm today and just finished charging up my high drain 18650 ten minutes ago. When going in to Firefly 1 or Firefly 2 the button very dimly flashes red for a short while before it stops. Some clicks or double clicks do not register. Even in off, there have been some times where a single click does not turn the headlamp on, or vice versa where a single click did not turn the headlamp off. There have also been a couple of instances of mode jumps. An example would be from off I kept the switch pressed in - this should ramp it up from firefly 1 but instead of starting at Firefly 1 it jumped to Main 1. A second time it jumped to Turbo 2 from off.


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## Woods Walker

moshow9 said:


> I am going to email Armytek later and see if I can capture it on video but mine has some odd behavior. I received my Wizard Pro XHP50 Warm today and just finished charging up my high drain 18650 ten minutes ago. When going in to Firefly 1 or Firefly 2 the button very dimly flashes red for a short while before it stops. Some clicks or double clicks do not register. Even in off, there have been some times where a single click does not turn the headlamp on, or vice versa where a single click did not turn the headlamp off. There have also been a couple of instances of mode jumps. An example would be from off I kept the switch pressed in - this should ramp it up from firefly 1 but instead of starting at Firefly 1 it jumped to Main 1. A second time it jumped to Turbo 2 from off.


 The red dim thing in firefly seems like what mine does occasionally or rather when I notice it. Only lasts for a second and is beyond dim so ignore that. Only clicks with enough force of purpose to turn the red light on during the action register. My Tiara switch feels a bit mushy without solid audio feed back so occasionally make errors in mode changing but never when it turns red to register a solid contact. The Wizard switch feels a bit more clicky for lack of better words but still the switch needs to turn red to show it was a solid click though it does it very well.


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## dc38

I am now very apprehensive about the one I will be receiving soon... :/


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## moshow9

Woods Walker said:


> The red dim thing in firefly seems like what mine does occasionally or rather when I notice it. Only lasts for a second and is beyond dim so ignore that. Only clicks with enough force of purpose to turn the red light on during the action register. My Tiara switch feels a bit mushy without solid audio feed back so occasionally make errors in mode changing but never when it turns red to register a solid contact. The Wizard switch feels a bit more clicky for lack of better words but still the switch needs to turn red to show it was a solid click though it does it very well.


That makes me feel a little better about the red dim flashing on firefly. Though in the instances where the headlamp didn't turned on from off with a single click the switch did flash red. I'll double check again when I get back home.


----------



## Tachead

dc38 said:


> I am now very apprehensive about the one I will be receiving soon... :/



Oh don't worry. Tons of these lights are out there and most people love them and don't have a single issue. And, even if you have an issue, Armytek will take care of you and for 10 years to boot. There are always a few lemons when it comes to any electronics and generally, far more people post about issues then ones who don't have any.


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## dc38

Apparently goinggear now has the magnetic usb charging version for 10$ less.


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## moshow9

Tachead said:


> Oh don't worry. Tons of these lights are out there and most people love them and don't have a single issue. And, even if you have an issue, Armytek will take care of you and for 10 years to boot. There are always a few lemons when it comes to any electronics and generally, far more people post about issues then ones who don't have any.



This! I've only had one other ArmyTek light have a issue and they were going to take care of it (I ended up selling it). I have owned a total of 10 ArmyTek lights and have only had an issue with one.

In playing around with this headlamp some more, I've found some truth to Woods Walker's post. The switch does feel different from my Tiaras and other two Wizards. I find that I have to be deliberate when clicking, whether single, outlet, or triple clicking. If I am more deliberate the headlamp and UI function as they should. So it looks as if this one is okay. Well more than okay. Tint and output are amazing!


----------



## scs

moshow9 said:


> I am going to email Armytek later and see if I can capture it on video but mine has some odd behavior. I received my Wizard Pro XHP50 Warm today and just finished charging up my high drain 18650 ten minutes ago. When going in to Firefly 1 or Firefly 2 the button very dimly flashes red for a short while before it stops. Some clicks or double clicks do not register. Even in off, there have been some times where a single click does not turn the headlamp on, or vice versa where a single click did not turn the headlamp off. There have also been a couple of instances of mode jumps. An example would be from off I kept the switch pressed in - this should ramp it up from firefly 1 but instead of starting at Firefly 1 it jumped to Main 1. A second time it jumped to Turbo 2 from off.



I came across 2 that had switch problems: one behaved just as you described, and the other was sensitive to finger pressure.


----------



## Woods Walker

moshow9 said:


> That makes me feel a little better about the red dim flashing on firefly. Though in the instances where the headlamp didn't turned on from off with a single click the switch did flash red. I'll double check again when I get back home.


 Also make sure your battery isn't almost dead. Occasionally the UIs on all my AT lights act funky and a few times I couldn't turn off the Tiara without untwisting the tail but the battery was really really low. Not sure how to reproduce it on the Tiara or Wizard but doesn't happen with the proper amount of power.

Edit.

Almost forgot. Yes the tint rocks!


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## dc38

First impressions, nice finish, nice clip, nice accessories, bice light! Bright, warm, (probably a 3500k or so) responsive clicks. On firefly, the button beacon is on. It did NOT come with a manual...


----------



## dc38

Although I do wish they had stuck with a 30-40 lm mode rather than the 80-100 lm on main mode 1


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## dc38

All modes besides main 3 (highest main mode) have an electronic buzzing when a couple inches from my ear. I had noticed it while wearing the headband. It is rather similar to a mosquito buzzing a couple feet away. Nearly imperceptible in the day to day activities, but i would imagine it to be deafening in the silence of the wilderness.


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## scs

Same here as well, but my hearing is not as acute anymore, so I hear it only when really close and really quiet. Don't know if it actually has to do with the flashing switch. Between flashes, the switch is very dimly lit red/orange, then when it does flash, there's an accompanying *chirp* sound.


----------



## scs

dc38 said:


> Although I do wish they had stuck with a 30-40 lm mode rather than the 80-100 lm on main mode 1



Sounds like you somehow got one from the remains of an older match maybe.


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## dc38

Ah, well...so far so good, hopefully. Im running a samsung 30q in it. As for the "chirp" sound, i hear a click noise when it switches over to the higher modes, like a capacitor switching on or something...


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## Woods Walker

I might have once heard something if the head of the light is stuck in my ear in an unnatural way. I could try it later to see. actually using it during an outing now. Ok took off my hood try it at great personal cost cuz it is so cold. Ok maybe a little pop on turbo with it stuck inside my ear then it goes away so not an issue IMHO. -Dang I just lighted up the entire woods.


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## dc38

Woods Walker said:


> I might have once heard something if the head of the light is stuck in my ear in an unnatural way. I could try it later to see. actually using it during an outing now. Ok took off my hood try it at great personal cost cuz it is so cold. Ok maybe a little pop on turbo with it stuck inside my ear then it goes away so not an issue IMHO. -Dang I just lighted up the entire woods.



Ear warming feature


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## Woods Walker

dc38 said:


> Ear warming feature


Not a bad idea. I really could of used it. LOL! I punched a hole in my water this am lookin for trout but didn't catch any.


----------



## xtibi

moshow9 said:


> Out of curiosity, what modes were you using when it stopped responding? And when you mean stopped responding did it shutoff and not turn back on, or was it something where it remained stuck in a current mode and could not be changed?



Not used any mode, when stopped responding. The headlamp was turned off with led button flashing.
The light never started again. Died in his sleep..


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## dc38

What is the status of your light now?


----------



## noboneshotdog

Has anyone purchased the new Wizard V3 with usb charging, and if so how is the strength of the tailcap magnet? Is it as strong or stronger than the non usb version magnet?


----------



## dc38

Still running strong! Running an intermitent switch actuation issue, glows when pressed but light doesnt turn on. Like once every 50 clicks or so. Doing some runtime testing with the "400 lm" regular mode on a keeppower 3500 protected. Since my Samsung 30q only charge to about 2700mAh, i had about 900 mAh less than the rated runtime tests. That said, 2700/3600 = .75. .75*18=~ 14.5. On the normal mode 1, I get roughly 13 hours of flat runtime followed by 25 min or rapidly diminishing output.


----------



## dc38

Run a few times to verify...KP 3500mAh 18650 provides 3.5hrs full brightness on m3, 400 lms. It drops to 40 lumens or so by the 4 hr mark.


----------



## Woods Walker

That seems right within specs for the 390 mode. Is the 13 hours for the 165 mode?


----------



## dc38

Woods Walker said:


> That seems right within specs for the 390 mode. Is the 13 hours for the 165 mode?



The m1 mode at 70-100 lm mode. 165 is closer to 8 hours on my 30Q cells. On the 400lm mode, the 30Q provided about 2.5-3 hours.

Samsung 30Q 3000mAh (2700 actual)
M1: 13.5h
M2: 8h
M3: 2.5h (3hr)

Keeppower 3500mAh (3370 actual)
M1: 16.5h
M2: 10h
M3: 4h

So far so good.


----------



## Woods Walker

dc38 said:


> The m1 mode at 70-100 lm mode. 165 is closer to 8 hours on my 30Q cells. On the 400lm mode, the 30Q provided about 2.5-3 hours.
> 
> Samsung 30Q 3000mAh (2700 actual)
> M1: 13.5h
> M2: 8h
> M3: 2.5h (3hr)
> 
> Keeppower 3500mAh (3370 actual)
> M1: 16.5h
> M2: 10h
> M3: 4h
> 
> So far so good.



Nice.

Those numbers look spot on or near enough!


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## eh4

Woods Walker said:


> Not a bad idea. I really could of used it. LOL! I punched a hole in my water this am lookin for trout but didn't catch any.



I like the lines of that pot, looks like it should heat well, and be nice to use, and clean. Who makes it?


----------



## Tachead

eh4 said:


> I like the lines of that pot, looks like it should heat well, and be nice to use, and clean. Who makes it?




+1

Can you tell us if it is stainless steel, aluminum, or titanium as well. Thanks.


----------



## OldmanRon

Ummm ... that don't like like titanium.

Unless maybe it's from the Filson store in Seattle ...  ... $295, plus another $37.50 for the (optional) Chilcoot Trail patina ...


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## eh4

I think it's older stainless.


----------



## bewerbung

I did not find a battery check from the 4th special modes selection on my V3 XHP50. 4 clicks I end up in the memorized strobe or beacon last used. I have one strobe and a high and low beacon in the fourth mode. 3 functions all together. 


My older V1.5 Wizard has the special modes with a main led flash for battery voltage.


----------



## Tachead

bewerbung said:


> I did not find a battery check from the 4th special modes selection on my V3 XHP50. 4 clicks I end up in the memorized strobe or beacon last used. I have one strobe and a high and low beacon in the fourth mode. 3 functions all together.
> 
> 
> My older V1.5 Wizard has the special modes with a main led flash for battery voltage.



Armytek no longer offers the battery voltage readout in their firmware. The led under the button will warn you about low and very low voltage however and the light also has a low voltage cutoff.


----------

