# Spark SD52 Mini Review



## Bolster (Nov 5, 2011)

This is a mini review of Spark’s new SD52, neutral white version. This is a high performance enthusiast’s headlamp, and unusual in today’s market for at least 3 reasons: (1) It’s a very wide, unreflectored, unlensed full flood light, one of the widest lights on the market at 115 degrees (according to Spark) [UPDATE: An optional aftermarket screw-on reflectored bezel modifies the beam to 18° spot and 70° spill]; (2) it’s a 2AA light, which is somewhat rare; and (3) it puts out a lot of lumens (280 according to Spark, and 300 for the cool white version). 

To me, these specifications indicate the SD52 is uniquely qualified as a work light. Since that’s the main use for my lights, I bought one. Whether you consider a light to be “good” or not, very much depends on your particular use for it. So I want to be clear with my criteria: does the SD52 function well as a work light or not? I will also try to get a perspective for the night hikers, but that’s not my emphasis. 

People like me who work with our hands in dark spaces (whether electrical, HVAC, plumbing, under cars, or setting up camp at night) find we want plenty of peripheral vision to find tools and supplies--or spot rats, black widow spiders, dangling hot wires and nail tips as we crawl around above/below a house. Having no hotspot is a bonus, meaning my eyes don’t have to constantly readjust from spill to spot. Also a broad beam means that when my head is wedged in position under a joist, I don’t have to turn my head or readjust my body position to see the next work over. A “wall of light” means that wherever I may need to turn my eyes, the light’s already there. 

The SD52’s advertised settings of 70 lumens for 7 hours, or 200 for almost 2, were both promising. I have been doubling up Zebralight H501ws to attain 30 lumens for an entire workday, and have been reasonably content with that beam. 30 lumens in an 80-degree beam is very usable in dark spaces (and it can be upped to 160 lumen for about 2 hrs when needed). For hand-work in the dark, blazingly high lumens are actually a disadvantage, so the mid-level 70 lumen option of the SD52 is attractive. On paper, the SD52 appears to be an overall improvement in performance over my dual H501w’s: more lumens, longer runtimes, and wider beam. But the proof is in the using. I had an attic job lined up, so within an hour of arrival, the SD52 went to work. 

Initial impressions: The box was partially crushed; not surprised, as it’s relatively thin cardboard and the package had gone from China to Kansas and then back to California. However the dense closed cell foam packing inside was more than sufficient to protect the contents. The light has a quality feel, more or less equivalent to a Zebralight, but feeling beefier. Zebralight H501w for comparison. 

















You load the batteries one button out and one button in, and it doesn’t matter which well gets an out or an in, as long as one’s out and one’s in. Then the cap mates the body with two lugs and screws on; a nifty arrangement. 






The fins make the light look considerably larger than it is; the fins add about 1/3 to the actual diameter of the body of the light. Amazingly the base of the fins are cut along a curve, hugging the contour of the two batteries. It’s a weight-saving detail that goes beyond what I’d expected. The dark anodized bezel is aggressively knurled and threads out easily, upon which you are staring at a bare emitter! Felt much like unthreading and threading a camera lens filter. I wish Spark would consider adding a plano-convex lens option as a screw-on filter, for when less beam spread is needed. That would go a long way toward keeping the night walkers, and others who'd like a more concentrated beam, happy. Spark says that a thread-on reflector is under development. [EDIT: Spark subsequently produced the aforementioned reflector bezel which gives an 18 degree spot and 70 degree spill.]

The SD52 has 4 levels in its normal rotation, accessible by holding down the button and cycling. The last used level is memorized by the SD52, so it turns on at whatever level it was turned off. A double tap gets you the 280 super mode, but I have not played with that yet, since it's not much more than the 200 midlevel. I don’t care that much about the top level--I care about the mid levels. 

The over-the-top strap is just sufficient to get across my noggin, but I will have to find a longer replacement strap to get it to stretch across my helmet. So for now the helmet mount is the around-strap only. I do not like the somewhat floptical mounting on the helmet without the top strap. When I bump my head on a rafter the light jostles a bit because it’s not sufficiently secured without the top strap. So I'm hunting for a piece of elastic for the top. [Edit: Done, easy, found the elastic at Joanne's sewing supplies for cheap. Now a firm mount on the helmet.]






Here are some beamshots against my workaday Zebralight H501w. This is a particularly warm H501w, much warmer than others I own, but it was the one within easy reach. It makes the SD52 seem on the cool side of neutral, but even without the comparison shot, I’d have to say the SD52’s neutral beam seems dead neutral to me...not warm, not cool. Others have commented it has a slightly cool cast. First shot is the H501w at 80 lumen and the SD52 at 70 lumen, a little underexposed to show beam pattern and color. You can just see the image of the die in the center of the beam. You’d expect the narrower 80 degree 80 lumen beam of the Zebra to outshine the 115-degree 70-lumen beam of the SD52 by a considerable margin, and it does. Notice how the Zebra’s beam evenness is superior, with very similar illumination from edge to center. Part of that is because the H501 beam's a little overexposed in the photo. 






The next comparison is the H501w on the same 80 lumen setting, but now the SD52 is on its second-higest setting of 200 lumen. Still underexposed to show pattern and color. Considerably brighter than the H501w on 80, but the big difference is how huge the beam spread is. It's around 44% larger than the H501w (80 vs 115) Still, the Zebra spreads its beam more evenly, which is an asset. 






And one more shot of 80 lumen left, 200 lumen right, this time a little overexposed...which better replicates what the eye sees:






Raining off and on outside, so no good outside photos outside for now. I tried the informal “snake in the grass” test. Night-time, with non-darkness adapted eyes, on dark lawn, at 70lm level, felt I could see enough detail to distinguish a stationary snake in the grass out to around 5 yards/meters. At the 200lm level, I felt I could see well enough to distinguish a stationary snake in the grass out to about 9 yards/meters. This is very subjective. But some CPFers (jokingly) fretted that the SD52’s beam would be so diffuse that you would have a hard time seeing your own feet except on high settings. Don’t worry, you feet are very brightly illuminated with the 70lm and up levels. I’d not want to use the lower levels for walking unless my eyes were well dark adapted. In order to tell if the bottom .5lm level is on or not you have to stick the emitter in your eye. Spread out like it is, it’s exceedingly dim.

The wide beam is just...fab. For working. Absolutely lovely. Anywhere you look there’s light. The “down in the gopher hole” feeling of a narrow-beam light is gone. No need to adjust the light up and down; wherever you look, it’s lit. Even a Zebralight needs occasional up/down adjustment but not the SD52, it’s a real shotgun. Set it and forget it. I think the much discussed light-falloff issue has been exaggerated, at least for work use--it’s a non issue. Plenty of light is getting on target at the 70lm setting and that’s the setting it appears I’ll be using the most, even though there are two higher settings. 

At the ends of my hands, it's very bright, and that's where I need it most of the time. First shot, which is underexposed, I'm sitting two or three joists back, and holding the camera behind my head (helmet the dark object bottom left). You can easily see 7 joists out...that's over 9 feet away, using the 70 lumen setting. Later, in a darkened room, with my eyes somewhat more dark adjusted, the 70 lumen setting was sufficient to easily see 8 yards away. 






Next shot is on the 200 lumen setting, looking several yards across the attic. The camera lens won't go wide enough to show you the edges of the light. 







The SD52 has been subjected to early criticism, which stems primarily from its potential use as a jogging or hiking light:

- “2AA up front would be too big/heavy.” If you’e used to a 1AA light, then the SD52 feels like a big light. If you’re used to an 18650 light, then it’s not. Can the SD52 be used for jogging? I wouldn’t use it for jogging because I never jog 7 hours--I’d use a smaller light with a shorter runtime. But _could_ it be used for jogging? If you kept the top strap on, then yes, it sits very tight and secure on the head with the top strap. If you take off the top strap, then no, the light is too heavy at 4 oz and would bounce up and down on the forehead. So I think this is not a light suited to typical jogging, although the angle of view would be breathtaking. On a work helmet? Then the size is almost unnoticeably different from a single AA light, since its 4 oz weight spreads across the whole helmet. 

- “This looks dim for 280 lumens.” I don't have an integrated sphere to test, but part of this may be the old lumens vs lux issue. When you take 280 lumens and spread them out over 115 degrees, the lux (brightness per area) is reduced. It's difficult to compare 280 lumens spread over 115 degrees to 280 lumens concentrated in the 15-degree hotspot of your favorite 2AA handheld, or even spread over 80 degrees as the H501w is. But for some reason, early commentary on the SD52 has focused on its inability to throw. True enough, with its bare emitter, the SD52 not a thrower. If you want lux, you need a focused beam. [UPDATE: Spark now offers an aftermarket SD reflector that does a fine job of focusing & throwing the beam.] But is the SD52 bright enough to function as a good work headlamp? Judge for yourself, attic shots roughly matching what my eye was seeing. It was difficult to give a sense of the wide angle view because my camera could not capture a wide enough field of view. Suffice to say it bathes a huge area with more than sufficient light to work by. First shot at the 70 lumen level, second looking further away with the 200 lumen level. 

Now what about you woodsy owl types...you don’t work in attics or crawlspaces...you like to hike at night. Is this light for you? Honestly it’s not the light I’d take backpacking [UPDATE: With the optional reflector, it now is competitive], because what makes it remarkable is the runtime and field of view, *taken together*. I don’t think you’d need either extreme for backpacking, and you’d want a lighter lamp anyway. Neither would this be my night hike light, unless I had to hoof it all night long, and even then I’d prefer more light in a narrower beam. When the reflector for it comes out? Maybe then. But for a work light? Well if it proves to be durable, and the runtimes are as advertised, then it’s a workman's dream come true. It was almost fun to spend two hours in a cramped attic today. Near to across the attic, left to right, up to down, I could simply see everything...and that was primarily on the 70 lumen level.

_Sorry the photos are missing. Cox Communications wiped out their FTP service without warning and I lost all my online photos. _


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## robostudent5000 (Nov 5, 2011)

Bolster said:


> Night-time, with non-darkness adapted eyes, on dark lawn, at 70lm level, felt I could see enough detail to distinguish a stationary snake in the grass out to around 5 yards/meters. At the 200lm level, I felt I could see well enough to distinguish a stationary snake in the grass out to about 9 yards/meters. This is very subjective. But some CPFers (jokingly) fretted that the SD52’s beam would be so diffuse that you could not see your own feet even on high settings. Don’t worry, you feet are very brightly illuminated with the 70lm and up levels.


what da.... HEYyyyyyyy! that is NOT what i said!!  ... lol

anyway, good review man. :thumbsup:


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## Bolster (Nov 5, 2011)

No, no, I was referring to the OTHER robostudent5000...  but I did get the quote wrong, didn't I. You said you'd need the 70 lumen mode to see your feet, and...I can report you _can_ see your feet very well on the 70 lumen mode. The mode below the 70 lumen is the 12 lumen mode, and it does NOT do much for showing off your new hiking boots, or showing you the ground. So, you were correct. I haven't actually tried walking with the 12 lumen mode, but I can't imagine it'd be fun. The 12 lumen mode is more of a book-reading mode IMO. 

You had predicted you'd not see much beyond 30 feet, and in my quick trip outside I estimated the 200 lumen mode got me seeing into the grass with decent illumination around 9 yards... very close to your 30 feet. So, another good prediction on your part. I will try to get some outside shots with this light. Something a little less subjective, hopefully.

I sense there is quite a bit of interest in what the reflector will do to the beam, and that the night-hike contingent would be more interested in the SD52 if the reflector threw the beam a little more. Myself, I'd prefer to see a screw-on lens...I'm worried a reflector will add profile...but yes, the lamp would be even more useful if you could modify the beam spread to your liking. No argument there. I wish more manufacturers understood the value of screw-on beam modification.


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## skyfire (Nov 5, 2011)

had no idea these were available already.

thanks for the write up!


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## B0wz3r (Nov 5, 2011)

B,

Great review! Looks like a very nice light. Personally, I don't think it would meet my needs, but that's not the point... Clearly it does meet yours, and your review is awesome! Good job.


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## ryguy24000 (Nov 5, 2011)

Thanks Bolster! I was considering one of these for work. The extra run time of 2AA being the biggest factor for me. from the pictures in the attic it would seem a good choice. Glad to here you like it as a work light. I am getting one!


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## coors (Nov 5, 2011)

Bolster,
I have to say that this review of yours is very well done. Very unique and real-world perspective, not often encountered in other's writing. I really enjoyed it a lot! IMO, this belongs over with the other flashlight reviews. If it had runtimes added, it might qualify... yes?


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## Bolster (Nov 6, 2011)

Thanks, and good point about runtimes. My problem is that all my Eneloops test at 60 or 80 percent when fully charged. I don't know what the problem is. Some are old, but some are new. I'm testing them with a ZTS tester. So I assume my runtimes would not be accurate with my Eneloops.




B0wz3r said:


> Great review! Looks like a very nice light. Personally, I don't think it would meet my needs, but that's not the point...



Ja, one thing you hope to do in a review is warn those away who would not be happy with it. I hope I gave enough detail that folks can decide thumb up or thumb down for themselves. Just because I like it for work doesn't mean it would be ideal for others with different uses. It is a sort of "extreme" headlamp in some ways, not as mainstream and multifunctional as, for example, an H51w.

However it could be multifunctional if we had beam modification accessories that would screw in the bezel.


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## Woods Walker (Nov 6, 2011)

Nice review.  The beam almost reminds me of the H50.


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## skidad (Nov 6, 2011)

Sparks response to my screw on reflector question.

The screw-on reflector will be available when the final model of SD series is released, which is SD73. The replacable new reflector can narrow down the beam profile which provides some throw beam pattern like ST6 does.

Sounds good to me as I have the SD52's big brother the SD6-500CW and it would be great to have the option of the slightly more focused beam. Spark avoided my question of when the SD73 would be available. Anyone know?

Nice review and pics of the SD52 BTW


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## snakyjake (Nov 6, 2011)

I really like your last attic photo. Glad lights are coming out that emphasize illuminating wide. When working medium range (5-15 ft), I really don't like looking at a hotspot.


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## Bolster (Nov 6, 2011)

Over at CPFMarketplace, Spark has made several postings hinting they are willing to make beam modification devices that the users want. It seems to me (reading between the lines, maybe wishful thinking?) that Spark may consider their ultrawide SD series to be the basis of a "build your own beam" system, since it's relatively easy to reduce spread and add some throw to a floody beam. They say: 




xyber said:


> We thought the SD series can meet up with many different needs...still waiting for other ideas from hikers or bikers maybe. Regarding the SD reflector, we are gathering feedback to decide what kind of plan to go with.



*So speak up!* Tell Spark how you'd like the beam modified. Maybe we can all get what we want: workers, hikers, bikers, and others. It sounds like any accessories for beam modification would fit across the entire SD line: 18650, 2AA, 1AA, and 3AAA. 

As much as I like and will use the superwide 115 degrees for work, I'd very much like a screw-on option that would give me around 60 degrees for walking (that's similar to a Surefire Saint's beam). That would really multiply the uses for the light. Whether reflector or lens, whichever gets the job done.


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## psychbeat (Nov 6, 2011)

yah maybe a wide and narrow reflector would cover it.

the ST6 I have already has a removable reflector and optional frosted lens.

the emitter is a little more recessed so Im not sure what the beam angle is
when run without the reflector. kinda fragile to be fiddling with in the field.
Ive scratched p60 reflectors just playing with them at home 

a white plastic reflector shaped piece would be kinda neat for semi focus.


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## spinkid (Nov 6, 2011)

Bolster, Thanks for the mini review, you nailed it! I have one and I love it for work. I think my ZL and a spare battery is going to be my hiking light due to its compactness. The SD is going to be my work light. I do telcom work outside usually during day, but we do on-call shifts and that translates to long nights and sometimes we do night shifts and changing a battery every 2.5 hours or so is a little bit of a pain. As you know, the battery always dies at the worst time.

Being able to change the beam will also be huge, I might try this for a hiking light if that happens. This definteley has some good possibilities.


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## snakyjake (Nov 6, 2011)

Why so much bigger and heavier than Zebralight?

*Sparks SD52*
Dimensions: 62mm x 33mm
Weight: 75g

*Sparks SD6*
Dimensions: 88mm x 31mm.
Weight: 75g

*Zebralight H600*
Dimensions: 99mm x 24.2mm
Weight: 39g


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## Bolster (Nov 6, 2011)

I just weighed the SD52 with cells & strap at 155 grams, and two H501's with cells & straps (which seems an appropriate comparison) at 135 grams. Yep, the Spark's 20 grams heavier. (You could get the Zebras lighter by threading two on one band.) I'm sure the SD52's deep fins cost a few grams. 

I'm not comparing performance between SD52 and two H501's, because I think the more appropriate performance comparison would be against the upcoming H502's, which will spit a lot more light than the H501's, which are getting kinda geriatric, technology-wise. Two H502's would give the SD52 a run for the money; together H502s could be putting out 500 lumen (assuming 250 each); no idea of runtime on that top setting. Again, I'd be looking at the midrange settings, since my needs require runtime rather than big lumens. And for that...we wait.


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## snakyjake (Nov 6, 2011)

Sparks is more than twice as heavy as ZL...that seems a bit concerning. Maybe a better heat sync for some unknown to me advantage?
I would understand the AAx2 to be wider, but why the 18650 needs to be that wide is questionable.


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## ryguy24000 (Nov 6, 2011)

yeah about that heat sinking. Do the lights really need that? Is a narrower light going to have trouble with heat using the higher current XML emitter? Maybe the Spark feels the light has to be this large to stand the test of time?


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## Miri (Nov 6, 2011)

Wow, nice review, excellent pics!

As I am still looking for a decent headlamp, this seems to a nice choice.


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## varuscelli (Nov 6, 2011)

Nice job, Bolster. :thumbsup:


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## Bolster (Nov 6, 2011)

snakyjake said:


> Sparks is more than twice as heavy as ZL...that seems a bit concerning.



Just making sure everyone understands that ZL is 1AA and the SD52 is 2AA? That's why I compared one SD52 to two ZL H501's, showing the SD52 to be 15% heavier than two ZLs. But yes, the Sparks are heavier (particularly when you compare the 18650 models--based on your specs above, the SD6 is 92% heavier than the H600!).


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## Bolster (Nov 6, 2011)

I am wondering why this bezel area isn't white or reflective? (Or GITD? :devil


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## skidad (Nov 6, 2011)

Good question, I _think_ that would be a good idea to be highly polished at least. Looking at my SD6 it appears there is enough material that a reflector could have been built into that little assy. Really looking forward to the accessory screw on piece.


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## Scriion (Nov 7, 2011)

I would just like to add to this review quickly. But first thanks to Spark for the SD52 and Bolster for the review 

Mine arrived yesterday and is the same NW version as Bolsters'. My intended use is as a Camping headtorch, and as that it really does excel on all levels. I have tried it out around the acreage here last night and it fits it's intended use to a tee. With the over the head strap its not too heavy. The wide beam is perfect for area illumination just as Bolster outlined. The lowest mode is even actually useful as it allows me to keep my night vision for those late night trips when nature calls, or even just looking around the tent. And once my eyes have dark adjusted walking and seeing directly at my feet is fine. All in all, a great light that I think will serve me well. I would be interested however is an reflector that would I could quickly attach to make it more useful as a walking light if I went for a night hike from camp.


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## Bolster (Nov 25, 2011)

Update because of a strange finding: 

The bezel is robbing this light of some lumens. My opinion, the bezel needs a redesign. I have been working on a lumen estimator project (lumentoob)--it may or may not be giving me good absolute lumen counts (and if it is, then my SD52 appears to be putting out about 25% less light than advertised, on not-so-fresh Eneloops), but I think it's working well enough to give me _relative_ lumen counts. I've noticed by removing the screw-off bezel, measurements are brighter; replacing the bezel loses me about 18% of the lumens! 

I'm sure a few lumens are eaten up going through the protective glass (the lens claims 98% transparency, I can live with that tradeoff), but I suspect many more are lost by the dark anodized cone shaped bezel that fits around the emitter. I had purchased some high-temp white paint and planned to paint the cone portion of the bezel white, but unfortunately the glass in the bezel is retained by a silver press-fit ring that I'm unable to remove.

At any rate, I hope that Spark can do a modification: either polish the interior of the bezel, or if that causes unpleasant artifacts, then at least paint the interior of the bezel white. I don't think the screw-on bezel should be losing 18% of the lumens. That's getting close to (or is at) visible perception range in a side-by-side comparison.


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## AbdnBob (Nov 25, 2011)

I'm late to the party, but thanks for the review!! I'm really after a ZL H502 when they appear, but I almost pulled the trigger on one of these today in amongst the Black Friday madness. Glad I read your review as it helped me realise that although this looks like a great light, it's not the right one for me right now.


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## skyfire (Nov 26, 2011)

Bolster said:


> Update because of a strange finding:
> 
> The bezel is robbing this light of some lumens. My opinion, the bezel needs a redesign. I have been working on a lumen estimator project (lumentoob)--it may or may not be giving me good absolute lumen counts, but I think it's working well enough to give me _relative_ lumen counts. I've noticed by removing the screw-off bezel, measurements are brighter; replacing the bezel loses me about 18% of the lumens!
> 
> ...



Ive been wanting to ask you about an update of your experience with the Spark SD headlamp.
as we know, SB is having a 20% off sale on their Spark products. the SD6 isnt exactly what id hope for. but so far, im leaning towards it, over their ST6 models. (ive given up on ZL on making their lights 2xCR123 compatible).

ever since i saw pics of the SD models, i also wondered why they didnt put in a tiny reflector, or removed that piece of coated ano. and just have a lens over the LED.
anyways, the SD6 has a 0.5 lumens mode, which i dont think ill ever use for a higher powered headlamp. the SD6 does seem to be more efficient than the ST6.
the ST6 has 2 different beam profiles, thanks to the frosted, and clean lens included.
i like the SD6 for its flood, and form, but should i wait until spark releases the optional bezels? also, why is it so thick? 31mm in width, while the battery size is 19mm at most.

so i guess my main concerns are....
how is the headlamp holding up? any issues so far?
do you find the 33mm width of the SD52 too wide?
is 200 lumens of 115 degrees flood adequate for most tasks? i love my H501w, but sometimes, i need more than 80 lumens of flood, without it buring my forehead.


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## snakyjake (Nov 26, 2011)

Since the bezels are replaceable/upgradeable, I'm presuming it is just a matter of time before Sparks will have an actual "reflector" instead of a dark anodized.
I'm still concerned about the huge size.


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## snakyjake (Nov 26, 2011)

Given Zebralight's past history, any guess how H302/H602 will compare?
Interchangeable bezels is why I'm giving the edge to Sparks.


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## Bolster (Nov 26, 2011)

skyfire said:


> so i guess my main concerns are....
> how is the headlamp holding up? any issues so far?
> do you find the 33mm width of the SD52 too wide?
> is 200 lumens of 115 degrees flood adequate for most tasks? i love my H501w, but sometimes, i need more than 80 lumens of flood, without it buring my forehead.



Sounds like your interest is trending toward the SD6 rather than the SD52. But regards your questions for the SD52: The light's still relatively new and no gremlins have appeared so far. In the SD52 thread at SPF Marketplace I've read a couple complaints about the switch, but no problems with mine--although you do need to be quick with your choice as the level cycle rate is fast. Regarding diameter: When on the head you're aware there's more than a Zebralight there, but given it's 4 oz with cells, it's still reasonable. My use is on a helmet where the weight just disappears. Much of the diameter is given over to cooling fins. I've not accidentally bumped it while wearing it, so the profile has not given me trouble. Regards lumens, there have been several comments that the SD52 doesn't look as bright as the lumens it advertises, and I agree, so I'd rely on the beamshots above to give you some idea of relative brightness of the 200 setting, compared to your H501w on its 80 setting, with eneloops. There is no perceptible heat to the forehead using Eneloops with the SD52 design, due to its massive fins. Regards "adequate for tasks," I have to ask, what tasks? Plenty adequate for working with your hands. But how far away do you want to see? And, what will Spark's new bezel design do? It's almost as if the SD series is still evolving. 

Unlike the SD6, the SD52 does not have "air space" in it, unless you count the cooling fins as such. To me it seems a compact and efficient design *for a 2AA light* (there's always the temptation to compare it to 1AA lights), with the exception of the cooling fins, which I suspect are more than actually needed for Eneloop use. The question any designer of a 2AA light has to wrestle with is: keep the body round for ease of adjustment in a bracket, or flatten it out for efficiency of space, and design some sort of ratcheting system for tilt? Spark appears to have favored simplicity of adjustment and decided to turn the diameter into a feature with the massive fins.

All comments above relegated to Eneloop usage, 3V at best. This light is rated up to 7.6 volts, so use some IFR14500s and those fins may not be overbuilt after all!


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## ryguy24000 (Nov 26, 2011)

I just received mine the other day just before the holiday, so I have not really tested it. Just played here and there. 
First off is that it's big. Not long. Just large around. I think because of the way the battery holder fits to the main body of the light. Look at bolsters pic of the battery compartment open and you see two battery springs and two posts on the lid. The posts fit into the bored out holes on the light. the Lid is actually two seperate pieces with the inside piece being the springs and posts(stationary) held to the outside via that little piece of metal in between the springs and posts. This is so the springs are in constant contact withe the batteries or they(the springs) would spin when threading the lid on the light. Now draw a circle around all of that and you can see why Spark made it so round.
The bezel area is a one piece deal as you can see in Bolsters pics. It is easy to see how Spark will incorperate different bezels into this light. White paint as Bolster suggested would seem like a logical solution to achieve maximun output for the current setup. 
I do have one issue with the light. Everything works fine, but let it sit off for a while and I go to turn it on it won't come on on the first click. Last night I had to get up for a bathroom run and it took three clicks to turn it on! this has happened several times so far and I doubt that is normal behavior.
On the other hand SKYFIRE the .4 luman mode came in quite handy for that Bathroom run. I am at my brothers house this holiday and I have to go up some stairs to the bathroom. After the third click the light came on and the level of light was great for navigating my way up and down without straining my eyes. Very pleasant if you ask me.
Like I said I haven't got any real time with the light, but so far I do like it. I have issues with it's size when I am looking at it, but when it is on my head it is comfortable. 
Bolster should be able to give you a better usage report since he had had more time in the trenches with the light.


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## skyfire (Nov 27, 2011)

thanks for the responses guys!

i really like the SD52 design. and the width is understandable.
im looking for a 2xCR123 headlamp, and the SD6 just seems unneccessarily wide. maybe ill be ok with it once i get it in my hands, or on my head hehe.
but i think ill just wait since i dont absolutely need a headlamp right now.
hopefully spark comes out with a new bezel option, or a revised model.

still thinking of getting the SD52 as a gift... that way i can experience it first hand heheh:devil:


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## Bolster (Nov 27, 2011)

skyfire said:


> ...im looking for a 2xCR123 headlamp...



Bold! I'd not put two cells of anything li-ion on my forehead, but that's just me. You sure I can't talk you into using a single li-ion cell, such as an 18650? When it comes to li-ion, one cell is safer than two cells. And two Eneloops are undoubtedly safer than any one li-ion cell...my opinion.

I'm not always such a chicken but when it comes to my forehead I take an excess of caution. That's one reason I ended up with an SD52. It'll never be as bright as an 18650 but neither do I have to worry about any sort of fireworks. Two Eneloops aren't going to get me into trouble.


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## snakyjake (Nov 27, 2011)

Bolster said:


> Bold! I'd not put two cells of anything li-ion on my forehead



I wouldn't put multiple _rechargeable_ cells in any flashlight, but CR123's are fine. I like single cell rechargeables so I can top them off with full capacity at the start of my adventure or work day.


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## DVN (Nov 27, 2011)

How would you say this compares to Zebralights and Spark headlamps? These non-reflector headlamps scare me into thinking the light isn't thrown very far.


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## skyfire (Nov 27, 2011)

Bolster said:


> Bold! I'd not put two cells of anything li-ion on my forehead, but that's just me. You sure I can't talk you into using a single li-ion cell, such as an 18650? When it comes to li-ion, one cell is safer than two cells. And two Eneloops are undoubtedly safer than any one li-ion cell...my opinion.
> 
> I'm not always such a chicken but when it comes to my forehead I take an excess of caution. That's one reason I ended up with an SD52. It'll never be as bright as an 18650 but neither do I have to worry about any sort of fireworks. Two Eneloops aren't going to get me into trouble.



LOL you make a very good point!
i plan on using 18650, but if i was on an extended trip, such as camping, i usually only bring primaries.
note to self: only use the best quality protected 18650 when using a device so close to my brain.:thumbsup:


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## Bolster (Nov 27, 2011)

snakyjake said:


> I wouldn't put multiple _rechargeable_ cells in any flashlight, but CR123's are fine.



Not even if one CR123 is depleted and the other is full? That still gives me a little concern. And I don't want to take my ZTS tester backpacking. 



DVN said:


> How would you say this compares to Zebralights and Spark headlamps? These non-reflector headlamps scare me into thinking the light isn't thrown very far.



Not sure I understand. The SD52 is a Spark. Regards flood vs. throw, did you read the original post in this thread? Dealt with that in considerable detail, including estimates of what you could see at what distance, and beamshots.




skyfire said:


> only use the best quality protected 18650 when using a device so close to my brain.:thumbsup:



Certain to help, but when I was agonizing over making the jump to 18650 I read a fair amount of commentary that 'protected' makes us feel safer than it really is, and that protected can add its own layer of issues. I'm not here to frighten people away from 18650s, and I'm not an authority on that topic, so I'll stop. To each, his own research. Obviously li-ions work great and have many fans. Given my work use of a headlamp, I just don't need to take on the additional risk, no matter how small it is. When I'm wedged under a crawlspace soldering a copper pipe (all at once: fear of being burned, of not being able to escape, of getting stuck (it's happened), of the dark, of spiders, of rats, of scorpions, of earthquake while under), I appreciate not having to give my headlamp a second thought. If I were on a search-and-rescue team, then yeah, but I'd take the extra precaution to keep my li-ion headlamps on my helmet rather than on my skin. Again, just me. Don't mean to be fear-mongering an awesome technology that works great for lots of people. I'd still rather see ya using a single li-ion rechargeable than two of 'em, tho. And primary AAs, and Eneloops, are pretty boringly safe. Which I like.


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## snakyjake (Nov 27, 2011)

Bolster said:


> Not even if one CR123 is depleted and the other is full?



For safety, and I'm no expert, I don't think primaries have the dangerous chemistry.
For efficiency, I wouldn't combine a low capacity battery with a full capacity...unless I had to.


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## snakyjake (Nov 27, 2011)

The safety hazards I've heard of lithium ion rechargeables are either combining batteries of different voltages (dead and a full battery), or during charging (over charge). I figure if these batteries are safe enough for my laptop, ipod, camera, and phone (which I carry next to my heart), they are probably safe.


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## psychbeat (Nov 27, 2011)

Don't cross the streams homie....


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## Bolster (Nov 28, 2011)

snakyjake said:


> The safety hazards I've heard of lithium ion rechargeables are either combining batteries of different voltages (dead and a full battery), or during charging (over charge). I figure if these batteries are safe enough for my laptop, ipod, camera, and phone (which I carry next to my heart), they are probably safe.



Yes, I agree. I think they're pretty darned safe, and will only get more so with improved technology. Every once in a rare while you hear of someone being maimed or killed by an exploding cell phone. Dell and Apple had to recall a bunch of Li Ions due to fires, and now the GM Volt is under investigation for its burning Li Ions. I'd be more comfortable carrying a small li-ion encased in plastic over my heart (clothes, skin, chest muscles, rib cage) than a big li-ion in a tightly sealed metal container just above my eyes. My brain I use rarely, but my eyes I use all the time.

I'm only mentioning this, because it actually is relevant to why I purchased an SD52 rather than buy an 18650 lamp. If I had no concerns about 18650s I'd have gone that direction instead. I think an 18650 has about twice the energy of two AAs.


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## snakyjake (Nov 28, 2011)

If I wasn't lured by the top lumens and runtime of the 18650, I'd get the AA NiMH. 

I went back to look at the specs and noticed for the SD52: "Use 14500 to get maximum output".

What is the maximum output and runtime if the 14500 is used?


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## psychbeat (Nov 28, 2011)

^^^it's like people being afraid of sharks and not surfing- more waves for me 

I lost my H51 tho and might get one of these so I can use my NiZN AAs. 
Waitin to see what zebra comes out with first- and saving $. 

It's probably good to have at least one AA light around (all my other lights are 18650 or 16340)


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## Bolster (Nov 28, 2011)

snakyjake said:


> "Use 14500 to get maximum output". What is the maximum output and runtime if the 14500 is used?


 I've been looking for that number, I've read it somewhere, I wanted to add it to the review. Hopefully someone will chime in. The SD52 will handle a whopping 7.6 volts. For the record, Spark's careful to state it will accept two IFR14500, or one 14500 with a dummy cell, not two 14500.

Oh, wait, here you go. In previous posts, Jake25 says the CW version puts out 350 lumens on a single 14500 (compare to 300 for 2AA Eneloops), and puts out closer to 500 lumens on 2x LiPo4 cells.


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## snakyjake (Nov 28, 2011)

For clarification, are the bezels replaceable on the SD52/SD6? Or only the SD73?


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## snakyjake (Nov 28, 2011)

Because of the weight, is the SD52 with the top strap on the head comfortable for a few hours? Or is it too heavy? Or does it really need the helmet for weight distribution?

My only head lamp is the Princeton Apex 279g, but the weight is distributed front and back.


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## Bolster (Nov 28, 2011)

Xyber says the plan is for all the SD bezels to be interchangeable. Apparently the 6 and the 52 are already interchangeable. But Xyber left a little wiggle room in his announcement regarding the SD73, so we'll see. 

I have not worn the SD52 for several hours on just its strap, sorry! It felt very comfortable when I was trying it out "bareheaded," but I had it on bareheaded for half an hour max, then it went to the helmet for work (--not because of the SD52's weight; because there are nails in the roof, and they poke through to the attic--they can really hurt a bare skull). The SD52 is only 4 oz with batteries so my hunch is that it's fine for a longer stint, particularly with its top strap in place. So much depends on personal variance, though. For example I have seen serious bi+ching on this forum about how painful the soft Zebralight silicone holder is...I don't get it. For me it just disappears on the head and I forget about it. So I'm not sure anyone can answer that question but you.


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## fist (Nov 30, 2011)

Is there any information on spark SD73?


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## spinkid (Nov 30, 2011)

I have used my SD52 a bunch and so far the max was about 1.5 hours straight. Now with my next shift in a month or so I expect that to increase. When using it for the hour and a half I had no issues with comfort. I did have on a beanie for a hat though (gotta keep the bald head warm..LOL). So far it does seem adequate for work but I doubt it will replace my Zebralight for hiking. I really like the runtime on 2 batteries as they should last when I have a long job.


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## ryguy24000 (Nov 30, 2011)

Been working with my SD52 this week. I really like the flood beam. I use it mostly on MED2 in back lit situations. MED 1 is good with no back light. the weight didn't effect me at all. Like spinkid I wore it over a beanie. have not changed the batteries yet, but I am a freek about turning my lights off when not in use. It's a great work light!!


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## beast1210 (Dec 9, 2011)

your pictures dont show up anymore. Have you tried tapping it on a hard surface, not hard, while on turbo, mine shuts off ;( This is the second sd52 that has done that, just curious.


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## Ent (Dec 29, 2011)

Hi

Been a bit late but thanks for the review. As mentioned by another poster the pictures are not showing. Hopefully mine is winging its way here to give me a chance to compare against the two Zebralights that I already have, H31 and H51. The single AA is very good but the CR123 is brilliant, but expensive to run in Australia. The RCR123 l-ion cells are rather short on run time so hopefully the Spark will have that covered using Eneloop and lithium primaries. Enjoyed the comments on wide beam. I used a Princeton-tec Corona for a long time due to its broad beam but rather heavy and poor caste nowadays. Flood verses beam is always a challenge for bushwalking. The Black Diamond Spot is not too bad a trade off for younger eyes. Oh, only if they had adopted a AA x 2 format. Anyway looking forward to giving the SD52 a workout in the bush.

And thanks again for a quality review even if minus the photographs.

Cheers


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## Bolster (Dec 29, 2011)

Yeah, I know the pictures are not showing. My ISP (Cox Communications) decided to wipe out their FTP service, which was formerly part of the ISP package, and I lost a lot of online photos in the process. The problem was, they never mentioned FTP would be going away. (And no, they did not even temporarily keep a backup for restoration purposes. They pressed a button and poof they were gone.) Sorry about that. Don't use Cox Communications for your ISP, is all I can say. Sorry.


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## JuggisGorba (Jan 22, 2012)

Hello guys.

Do you have any experience of Spark SD's in cold temperature? I mean temperature from -10 to -15 °C (around -50 to 60 °F) which is quite typical here in Finland in winter time. I've heard that SD6 with 18650 Li-ion battery produces enough heat to keep the whole lamp warm. How about SD52 with normal alkaline AA batteries? What do you think?

Juggis


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## goose2283 (Jan 22, 2012)

I've used a Spark ST6 in -20c, and a Zebralight in -25c. Both handled it perfecly well. I have had alkaline batteries fail me utterly around 0c before, and will never again use them in any flashlight. I can't comment on the SD6 specifically, but the batteries should be fine.


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## spinkid (Feb 15, 2012)

Bolster (or anyone), Have you used the SD52 till the batteries completely died? I was using mine Sunday night and my Eneloops died on the job which is ok as I have spares in the truck, but when they died, the SD52 just shut off. It did not step down or anything, no warning then darkness. Is that normal, or should there be a drop down in brightness first? Usually I am pretty diligent with changing the batteries well before they drain all the way down so this wouldn't happen, but I was just really into this job and didn't want to break away. Thanks


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## ryguy24000 (Feb 15, 2012)

spinkid said:


> Bolster (or anyone), Have you used the SD52 till the batteries completely died? I was using mine Sunday night and my Eneloops died on the job which is ok as I have spares in the truck, but when they died, the SD52 just shut off. It did not step down or anything, no warning then darkness. Is that normal, or should there be a drop down in brightness first? Usually I am pretty diligent with changing the batteries well before they drain all the way down so this wouldn't happen, but I was just really into this job and didn't want to break away. Thanks



That's what mine does too. I run it at Med2 most of the time. sometimes I will open the cap and reclose and squeeze a few more time on a lesser level.


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## Bolster (Feb 15, 2012)

I've not run batts dead in the SD52, so didn't know that the light didn't step down. That's not good. That would definitely decrease the usability of the light. Sorry to hear it.


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## Bolster (Feb 15, 2012)

I've not run batts dead in the SD52, so didn't know that the light didn't step down. That's not good. That would definitely decrease the usability of the light. Sorry to hear it.


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## spinkid (Feb 15, 2012)

Guys, Thanks for the reply. It is a bit of a downer and I run mine mostly on med2 as well. Well atleast it is a good light for work with great runtime.


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## Bolster (Feb 15, 2012)

Just got a PM from Xyber who says that the optional aftermarket reflectors are being shipped to goinggear and sdflashlights.


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## ryguy24000 (Feb 15, 2012)

Yeah!! Way to go Bolster. Any details on beam type/s?


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## Bolster (Feb 15, 2012)

A hint from Xyber at this thread says "not that throwy," makes it sound like it's somewhere between flood and throw. That would suit me just fine, I'm not trying to make a thrower of it.


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## spinkid (Feb 16, 2012)

Good news, time to stalk their websites...lol Thanks for sharing the news.


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## spinkid (Feb 16, 2012)

Stalking is now over...time to wait. Hopefully in 3-5 business days I will find out if it was worth the wait.


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## marcis (Feb 24, 2012)

spinkid said:


> Stalking is now over...time to wait. Hopefully in 3-5 business days I will find out if it was worth the wait.



Have you received the reflector yet ? If yes, how does it perform ? I will be ordering an Spark SD-73 NW today, along with the add on reflector.


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## spinkid (Feb 24, 2012)

marcis, Actually received an email about an hour ago that said it was shipped today. Delivery was set as 4-5 days from USPS, so hopefully middle/end of next week I can let you know.


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## marcis (Feb 24, 2012)

spinkid said:


> marcis, Actually received an email about an hour ago that said it was shipped today. Delivery was set as 4-5 days from USPS, so hopefully middle/end of next week I can let you know.



Awesome, thanks for the response. I actually placed an order for the SD-73 NW, and reflector today. I should also have mine by next friday. I am pretty excited.


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## ryguy24000 (Feb 24, 2012)

Marcis. Just out of curiosity, why did you choose the 73 over the 52?


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## marcis (Feb 24, 2012)

ryguy24000 said:


> Marcis. Just out of curiosity, why did you choose the 73 over the 52?


 I wanted the full 280 lumens that the AAA batteries can get, the 2xAA version is only capable of producing 280 lumens with the 14500 battery (which I don't care to own or use). If the 2xAAs were able to produce the 280 lumens I would have surely bought that.


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## Bolster (Feb 24, 2012)

marcis said:


> I wanted the full 280 lumens that the AAA batteries can get, the 2xAA version is only capable of producing 280 lumens with the 14500 battery (which I don't care to own or use). If the 2xAAs were able to produce the 280 lumens I would have surely bought that.



No, something's wrong here. See: 

http://www.sbflashlights.com/Spark-Headlamps/Spark-SD52-NW-p158.html

The way I read it (some interference from the Chinglish, of course), it says that the data in the list (up to 280lm max for the NW version of the SD52) was obtained "Upon data are based on testing with 2*Sanyo eneloop" [sic]. That seems to indicate the lumens advertised are available with Eneloops, not 14500s. Next line says to use 14500s "to get maximum output." If you read this literally, with 'maximum' = 'Max', it would seem to indicate that you needed 14500s to get "Max" output (which they define as 200 lumen, with "Super" being 280 lumen), which makes no sense. The word "max" and "maximum" are being used to indicate different things, and the phrase "Use 14500 to get maximum output" can also be interpreted (incorrectly, I think) to mean that 280 isn't available unless 14500s are used. But I think that's a confusion caused by the verbiage used...notice there are other various capitalization, syntax, and grammar errors throughout. 

My suspicion is that Spark did not list maximum lumen or runtime for 14500s at all. I may have read that somewhere, don't recall now. 

Nutshell: I don't think 14500s in an SD52 equal 3xAAAs in a SD73. I'm certain someone can do the math to check.


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## jake25 (Feb 24, 2012)

280 lumens on 2xAA Eneloops. 350 lumens on 1x14500 Li Ion. 400+ lumens on 2x LiPo4s. Pretty sure I said this somewhere else.


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## marcis (Feb 24, 2012)

Bolster said:


> No, something's wrong here. See:
> 
> http://www.sbflashlights.com/Spark-Headlamps/Spark-SD52-NW-p158.html
> 
> ...



Bolster you just saved me a bunch of time, Thanks for being thorough! 



jake25 said:


> 280 lumens on 2xAA Eneloops. 350 lumens on 1x14500 Li Ion. 400+ lumens on 2x LiPo4s. Pretty sure I said this somewhere else.



Thanks for the speedy update!


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## spinkid (Feb 28, 2012)

Bolster, I hope you don't mind keepping your thread going as the main SD52 thread..... I received my reflector today from SBflashlights and right now really like it. I won't be fully testing till my next on-call at work in about a month though. It sure did make the beam better for my work purposes, for some work I could probably get away comfortably on level 2 now. It does have a little hotspot, similar but not as prominent as the one on my original Zebralight H51. I don't feel like my eyes always want to focus on the hotspot. On the 70 lumen mode this is fantastic for my purposes and weight aside seems like it would be a great hiking light. 

Oh, I tried beamshots with my crackberry and failed miserably so I can't post them..sorrry.


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## Bolster (Feb 28, 2012)

Great news, thanks for reporting!!


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## marcis (Feb 29, 2012)

My SD-52 and reflector are out for delivery, should be here in the next hour and a half. I will try and give my thoughts sometime this evening also.


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## marcis (Feb 29, 2012)

Comment removed by myself.


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## tedh (Mar 5, 2012)

Nice review, thanks. My frustration with the ST5 was it doesn't memorize levels with an Eneloop, although apparently it does with a 14500. Does the SD-52 have the same behavior? Or does it really memorize levels with Eneloops? 

Thanks.


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## Bolster (Mar 6, 2012)

[EDITED] 

I use Eneloops. My SD52 MAY be forgetting previous level, or I MAY be misremembering what level I had it on. Running a test now to see if it is indeed forgetting.

I'm walking back my previous statement. That was an impression, not a test, subject to faulty memory of how I'd left the light when last used. 

Garbman, would you please unquote me, below? I want to run a test and make sure this is happening.


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## garbman (Mar 6, 2012)

----------
How can something like that happen ???
Really weird.


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## ryguy24000 (Mar 7, 2012)

My SD52 is "Iffy" on the mode memorization! my St5 with 14500 is really nice. I have issues with the SD52 button and mode memory. Sometimes when not in use for a day or so, and I push the button it won't come on, on the first push. I can't figure this out. Anyone else have this issue?


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## B0wz3r (Mar 7, 2012)

ryguy24000 said:


> My SD52 is "Iffy" on the mode memorization! my St5 with 14500 is really nice. I have issues with the SD52 button and mode memory. Sometimes when not in use for a day or so, and I push the button it won't come on, on the first push. I can't figure this out. Anyone else have this issue?


How long do you hold the button for your first push? Sparks have this funky 'momentary' function where you're supposed to be able to invoke the light and then have it go off again if you hold the button for something like less than half a second. Could that be the issue you're having? I personally dislike such a 'feature', and wish they'd just drop it from the UI. Doesn't serve any useful function in my book, and complicates the UI as well.


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## ryguy24000 (Mar 7, 2012)

I just push it like normal, but sometimes it won't come on, on the first click. Usually after it has been sitting for a while. I am totally aware of the momentary function.


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## Bolster (Mar 7, 2012)

There have been a few times that I pressed the switch, and thought the light didn't turn on, but it may have simply turned onto the lowest setting instead, which is hard to see in ambient light. (Often I'm already wearing my helmet before I switch on so can't look directly at the emitter.) 

I'm walking back my previous statement of forgetting modes, as that was an impression. A test is better, and that's underway now. 

I'm turning on my SD52 every couple of hours to spot any anomaly. Smooth sailing so far. Maybe the interval needs to be days.


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## Bolster (Mar 7, 2012)

OK, results. 

One hour delay between use, no issues...SD52 remembers previous setting. 

4 hour delay between use, the single quick click does nothing. A second quick click, nothing. So now I press and hold, and the light comes on to low (which was not the previous setting). 

So, yeah, some weirdness here. Doesn't render the SD52 inoperable, but isn't right, either.


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## ryguy24000 (Mar 7, 2012)

yeah. I'm with you Bolster. I thought that too. Maybe the Ambient light is drowning out the low level! But, shouldn't it come on the level I had it at originally? I have actually tested the light several times, and sometimes it will not come on, on the first push of the button when i take it off and actually look at it while pushing the button!!! Don't get me wrong. I love this light, I'm just trying to figure out how it works. My St5 on 14500 is spot on. Just click and I am on the previous mode!


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## Bolster (Mar 8, 2012)

Did it again. Turned the light off at level 3 last night. This morning a quick click got nothing. Tried turning on via quick click 3 times, nothing. Finally press and hold, and it comes on to level 1 (low). Definitely forgetting its setting, and wont turn on with a quick click, requires press-and-hold.


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## ryguy24000 (Mar 9, 2012)

Bolster said:


> Did it again. Turned the light off at level 3 last night. This morning a quick click got nothing. Tried turning on via quick click 3 times, nothing. Finally press and hold, and it comes on to level 1 (low). Definitely forgetting its setting, and wont turn on with a quick click, requires press-and-hold.




I get the same results!! I wonder what is going on?????


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## marcis (Mar 9, 2012)

I am with you all, my SD-52 does not remember it's settings .... It remembered it's settings for like the first 5 days, now when I click it on it starts at the lowest mode. Zebralight definitely has the advantage when it comes to operation. I have a love/hate relationship with my new spark. 

P.S I will be updating my spark thread in the next day or so


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## Bolster (Mar 9, 2012)

Let's alert Xyber and see what he has to say.


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## spinkid (Mar 9, 2012)

Bolster, Mine does not do a good job remembering settings as well. In fact the night I found that it shuts off when the batteries are drained, it did exactly as described. It took multiple clicks to turn on , but when on it cycled all the levels fine. Then after the batteries died, I attributed it to dying batteries. But I have noticed taking multiple clicks to turn on (possibly low), and just verified now that it just does not turn on. I shut it off a day ago on high and just tried now and it turned on low after the 3rd click. Something is surely a little odd.


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## Bolster (Mar 17, 2012)

Adding comments regarding the optional reflector to this thread because I'm obsessive/compulsive: 




Bolster said:


> Received my optional reflector today...but given the nice beamshots at the German website...no need for me to take more beamshots (unless someone really wants to see a white wall.)
> 
> I trigged the beam with reflector to: 18° spot, 70° spill. (Check my math? 36" from wall. Spot dia of 11.5", spill dia of 51".)
> 
> ...


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## marcis (Mar 17, 2012)

Bolster said:


> Adding comments regarding the optional reflector to this thread because I'm obsessive/compulsive:
> 
> _Received my optional reflector today...but given the nice beamshots at the _German website_...no need for me to take more beamshots (unless someone really wants to see a white wall.) _
> 
> ...


 I believe part of the above quote has a comment I made "_ I read a previous post where someone said something to the effect that "the reflector now makes this a useable light."  I just wanted to say that I agree with bolster's quoted comments. I probably just worded my post weird, I am good at that  I am reffering to post #92_


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## Changchung (Apr 4, 2012)

Hi guys, about the memory issue, I just find this in the sbflashlights site;

Copy from the st5 description

Hold on button to go through Minimum, Medium 1& Medium 2, Max modes. When desire mode is reached, release to stop brightness ramping and current mode is memorized. (AA with short term memorization, 14500 with permanent memorization)
At any mode, quick double click on button to trigger the Super mode.


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## ryguy24000 (Apr 4, 2012)

These lights behave differently with lithium Ion batteries!!! I notice a bit of temper mental behavior in my SD52 when the batteries(NiMH) are wearing out. With fresh batteries or lithium ion it's a joy to opperate. Same story with my ST5. Conclusion. Spark lights are better with the Lion batteries.?


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## Bolster (Apr 4, 2012)

Changchung said:


> (AA with short term memorization, 14500 with permanent memorization).



That's...interesting...! My impression was the short term memory on my SD52 has been getting shorter, but maybe that's because my Eneloops need a recharge?!?


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## otis (May 29, 2012)

Thanks for the review, Bolster (I know I am late to the party). If you consider this to be a mini review, I'll have to look at some of your detailed reviews! lol Based on your review, I have purchased the SD52 and love it. I also purchased the optional reflector, but have yet to use this feature. I've used the headlamp to put struts/shocks on a couple vehicles and this light on wide angle at the third power setting works fantastic for this type work. The optional magnetic mount really worked out for me in this application. Having the flexibility of headmount or magnetic mount was much appreciated. A lot better than any other headlamp I've ever used, albeit more spendy than the others, some by a whole bunch!

I did find the light became a little finicky when the NiMH batteries I use became low on charge, but a fresh set put me back in good stead. I'll be trying a 14500 in the light soon.

Again, thanks for the very thorough and in depth review of the product. I'm glad I purchased the SD 52 and look forward to finding more ways to use this headlamp to my advantage.


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## Changchung (Jun 7, 2012)

Bolster said:


> That's...interesting...! My impression was the short term memory on my SD52 has been getting shorter, but maybe that's because my Eneloops need a recharge?!?



Or the driver is not that perfect working with both quimistry???


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## Alt_F4 (Sep 22, 2012)

I received the SD52 but has a problem. In super mode with 2 x AA Ni-MH batteries Varta / Rayovac 2100mAh stays on for about 5 minutes and then turn off. With 2 x AA Energizer Advanced Lithium stays on for 48 minutes and then turns off. The other modes are working properly.
The AA nimh seem in good condition, 1900mAh capacity with 1A discharge current (discharge testing on Maha C9000)

Can you do a runtime test in super mode with 2xAA nimh?


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## mpteach (Oct 24, 2012)

Bolster said:


> ...unfortunately the glass in the bezel is retained by a silver press-fit ring that I'm unable to remove....



Does the sd52 use the same bezel as my sd6? I was able to get a press fit ring and glass out intact:thumbsup:

My first idea was to clamp a hose around it and use water pressure but i did not have a hose.
My second idea was to push a wooden dowel through the back but i did not have a dowel and i was afraid of putting all the pressure in the center half of the glass. In hindsight the glass is thick for it size and i think that probably would have worked well.
My third idea and what i actually did was to fill the bezel with papertowel and water then freeze it to form a hard plug. I held the bezel with vice grips, held an allen wrench underneath the plug and slammed it into the ground several times till the ring and glass popped up.

ymmv and wear eye protection unlike me lol.


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## Bolster (Oct 25, 2012)

mpteach said:


> Does the sd52 use the same bezel as my sd6? I was able to get a press fit ring and glass out intact:thumbsup:.



(Yes, same bezel.) Cool. So what's the plan?


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## mpteach (Nov 10, 2012)

Not sure yet.
I could paint the cone white,
paint cone white and diffuse glass,
replace the whole bezel with flat glued plexiglass
or return the headlamp. Got a week to decide.

I like turbo mode for walking around and high when working on things close. Im glad i got the lumens i did. My first neutral led and I like it so much better than blue led but i still would have traded lumens for high cri neutral. 
Why are batteries always on the front or back of head and not on top where they'd be most out of the way?

I like the super wide angle of light w/o the bezel. Unfortunately thats what i was expecting this headlamp to be w/ stock bezel. I always thought that super wide angle was ideal if the extra lumens were available but now realize that narrow can be better when obstacles are close by and you want to look into the distance. If the obstacles are one side you can aim the light the other side but if they are on both sides it could be better to have a narrow beam

The glare of the bare emitter is intense for other people close by or if I look in a mirror I see a blinding afterimage for a while. 
I wonder how much diffusion would be preferred for the following scenarios?
working with other people or mirrors,
working around polished metal tools,
glossy painted surfaces

This got me thinking about the maximum diffusion that could be designed into a wearable headlamp, maybe 12cm wide x 4cm tall diffuser lens in front of 3 leds?

Are bugs attracted more to a small but bright emitter or a larger but dim emitter?
Next year it will get warm again.


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## rojos (Nov 10, 2012)

mpteach said:


> or return the headlamp. Got a week to decide.



Will the seller take it back considering what you did to the bezel?


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## Bolster (Nov 11, 2012)

mpteach said:


> I could paint the cone white,



That would be my vote.


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## rojos (Nov 11, 2012)

.....


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## mpteach (Nov 11, 2012)

rojos said:


> Will the seller take it back considering what you did to the bezel?



Obviously I'd have to put the glass and press fit ring back, and that's way easier than taking it apart.


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## rojos (Nov 11, 2012)

mpteach said:


> Obviously I'd have to put the glass and press fit ring back, and that's way easier than taking it apart.



Who did you buy it from?


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## larcal (Nov 19, 2012)

Hi Bolster, --Could I ask you (and rest of the crew of course) to read and respond to a letter I wrote to Gregozedobe on the ("H501 listed as discontinued" thread? Realize I've burned it out, maybe in the wrong places, as I asked a couple of others also but they may not respond. But I'll drop it. Don't think I haven't heard what you said about the hotspot blinding, reflections, light variations, constant head movement etc, but as I was reading I wanted to break in and ask if there was anything you missed about the H501, like maybe being able to see what was in front of you with less Lumens and thus better battery life. And other stuff. Don't want to repeat. But really, both you and Spinkid tried and reported on the new Spark focuser and he thought the narrower beam was an aid to close Work. (Hi Spinkid) So maybe I should get the H51f. Most posters just talk blithely like it's as simple as throw for hikers and pure flood for close work. Anyway, you've got way more beam experience then I'll be able to afford, and being a hard worker on the dark side of the road like me I'm thinkin you'll be able to grok what i'm to exhausted to say well, hopefully. And being a flashaholic, you've probably heard it all before, sorry about that. But I've tried to do my homework and don't see this totally fleshed out anywhere, from both sides.

To bad about the Spark memory not working on eneloops eh? Really a bummer. I was ready to get one just cause the zebras only have memory for the secondary levels, it seems, and that's not sufficient. I want to turn off and on a lot and be able to go into medium with one click, which zebra won't do. Unfortuanately, as it turns out, either will the Spark Thought I could put diffuser tape on that extra focuser if it corrected to much in the tight direction as I suspect. Thank's for the listen.


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## Bolster (Nov 19, 2012)

larcal said:


> ... if there was anything you missed about the H501, like maybe being able to see what was in front of you with less Lumens and thus better battery life.



I still use my two H501w's a lot, they are much lighter in weight, and the tint is warmer and "friendlier." The SD52W is a helmet light for me; it gets no other duty than that, as the helmet spreads the weight so it's unnoticeable. Hard to compare lumens and battery life as you're comparing 1AA vs 2AA. Let's just say I seldom need to change out cells on the SD52 in the middle of a shift, and generally have plenty of light. 



larcal said:


> ... he thought the narrower beam was an aid to close Work.



I can see certain types of close work benefitting from a hotspot. Dentistry, looking down a hole, maybe even machining, etc. My work requires broad field of view, "Where did I lay the pliers" and "what other problems are lurking in the dark"? There's a certain type of work where you're looking for...hunting for...your targets, and that sort of work benefits from a wall of light. But with an inexpensive bezel change, you have the best of both worlds, as your task demands it. 

If ZL made an interchangeable bezel, your choice would be easy. Too bad ZL won't make an interchangeable bezel.


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## RGB_LED (Nov 22, 2012)

Thanks Bolster for the in-depth review. I found this thread and, after reading this and looking at other options, decided to pull the trigger and picked up an SD52 NW. :thumbsup: 

I do want to add my two lumens here about the Spark SD52 as I thought this 2xAA light with an NW XML LED would be the ultimate headlamp. 



larcal said:


> To bad about the Spark memory not working on eneloops eh? Really a bummer...


Strange, the memory works fine on mine and with pretty much all of my AA batteries.

Somewhat of a disappointment... when I use my slightly older AA batteries that are 1-2 yrs old, it doesn't stay in turbo mode very long, maybe a couple of minutes at most. This despite measuring 1.45v and a capacity around 1800-1900 mAh (measured on a DMM and using an Maha MH-C9000 charger). I suspect it's due to the amps it must be pulling to drive the XML LED and the voltage must be sagging very low and not enough to drive the LED. :shrug: On my new eneloops, there doesn't seem to be any issues... although I have to question whether the runtime on turbo of 1.5hrs is accurate. 

Also, I have both the stock bezel and the reflector and, much to my surprise, the reflector doesn't quite work as well as I thought. I'm so used to the wide beam of the ZL lights that I tend to turn my head too much when I'm using the light. Not sure if others have the same experience (I also picked up a ZL H51W and have the same issue now... I turn my head too much to get the hotspot on the subject I'm illuminating).

Lastly, my light included the magnet but, to my surprise, I couldn't screw it into the hole on the other end of the light. Upon closer inspection, the hole did not have any threads! :sick2:

Overall, I'm still happy with it when I run it with new eneloops and I guess I can live without the magnet option.


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## larcal (Nov 25, 2012)

> It sure did make the beam better for my work purposes, for some work I could probably get away comfortably on level 2 now.



Did you mean to say you can comfortably use level 1 (12 lumens) now? Thought you said you were using level 2 or 70 lumens before.


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## larcal (Nov 25, 2012)

Thanks Bolster, a big help. I gather most of your work is carpentry and plumbing, with an emphasis on remodeling? 

Well I'm sold on wide beams of some type. So comparing using 2 501's as you do getting 30 lumens at 80 degrees with the Spark at 70 lumens and 115 degrees how would you say the visibility at say 3 feet on an object is? I.e, you've got more lumens but spread out a lot more. Because the two 501's will go 19 hours wheras the spark only 7.5 hours. And weights about the same. I'm guessing that since you like the Spark that it in fact an effective lux increase and worth the battery loss to you. Going from 80 to 115 degrees is a 44% increase but jumping from 30 to 70 lumens is a 133% increase if the math means anything, which maybe it doesn't, so thought I'd ask. Seems like a step between 70 and 12 would be perfect.

Have you also experienced what Spinkid did with no step down when the batteries are low?

I gather from your led color pictures bottoming all your posts that you prefer High Cri, but I previously thought of this as an aesthetic thing important to artists and photographers. Do you think high cri adds to perception of detail and that it is more important then amount of lumens? I don't get why it practically matters what color something looks like. No CRi specs for these Sparks unfortuanely, but then the Zebras are scant in that also. Regarding the separate subject of color, I guess, from your choices in each brand you feel more warmth is worth sacrificing for. Is this strictly a matter of comfort, or something else.? 

Will apply the principles learned here to looking at the 502, and I'm still interested in the 51f, cause it has a 80-90 degreer like 501, if more centered. Need to look around forum more and see if you've tried the 502 since writig this review and whatja thought.

Sorry for all the questions. Wearing out the question mark key. I pray not you. Just trying to catch up, starting at zero.

Absolutely stupendous review!


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## larcal (Nov 25, 2012)

No threads!, RGB. what a bummer. Curious why you didn't ask for an exchange? or maybe you did and they refused. hard to believe that though. It's also curious why you did not have have the memory and start problems on eneloops that were mentioned. Definately some things to like over the zebra and some not.


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## Bolster (Nov 29, 2012)

larcal said:


> I gather from your led color pictures bottoming all your posts that you prefer High Cri, but I previously thought of this as an aesthetic thing important to artists and photographers. Do you think high cri adds to perception of detail and that it is more important then amount of lumens? I don't get why it practically matters what color something looks like. No CRi specs for these Sparks unfortuanely, but then the Zebras are scant in that also. Regarding the separate subject of color, I guess, from your choices in each brand you feel more warmth is worth sacrificing for. Is this strictly a matter of comfort, or something else.?



Artists, photographers...and electricians (is that wire brown or dark blue or black)? Also high CRI is useful for spotting efflorescence (crystallized salt left behind from water leaks) which can be subtle and difficult to spot even with an incan. So for my work I'd be happy to give up lumens for high CRI, which the Spark SD52NW is most decidedly not. (Wish it were.) When I have color critical tasks, on goes the H502c. 

Warm tint is a separate issue, and yes, I vastly prefer a warm tint when working in spooky unpleasant places. It seems to have a large psychological effect for me. I won't crawl down there with a cool light, but with a warm light, for some reason I'll do it and be reasonably cheerful. I can't explain it beyond saying it's entirely psychological. In this respect the SD52NW is, once again, neutral. Neither cool nor warm. 

I would love to transplant the H502c's emitter into the SD52NW, but obviously the SD52NW is very useable as is. Would I prefer to use TWO H502c's to a single SD52NW? I believe I would. But I don't own two H502c's.


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## beast1210 (Dec 13, 2012)

Here is my .02


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## Bolster (Dec 13, 2012)

Interesting, thanks for posting! Only the best reviews have banjo music!!

About the "bump makes it turn off" issue, given that it seems to occur in the vertical orientation, is it possibly the battery springs flexing enough to allow the battery to break contact momentarily? So perhaps your second light has stiffer springs? Of course, if that were the reason, you'd expect the "bump off" issue in all modes, not just turbo...


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## beast1210 (Dec 13, 2012)

Bolster said:


> you'd expect the "bump off" issue in all modes, not just turbo...



My thoughts as well, the second light will do it just as easy on standard AA, but when using the higher voltage 14500, almost no issue. Strange


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## Ace12 (Jan 5, 2013)

Anyone know the color temperature of the NW compared to the CW?


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## TSellers (Feb 28, 2013)

Just an update to the excellent video review posted above. I have been using 2 LiFePO4 AA cells in series in my SD52 and it is now my preferred configuration for this model as I get about 1 3/4 hrs on max. I got about 55 min using just one with a dummy cell. As the operating range of the light goes up to 7.6v, there should be not problem to also use 2 LiCo 14500 cells either.


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## atlr (Mar 25, 2013)

Bolster said:


> I would love to transplant the H502c's emitter into the SD52NW, but obviously the SD52NW is very useable as is. Would I prefer to use TWO H502c's to a single SD52NW? I believe I would. But I don't own two H502c's.



A Cree XM-L2 90-CRI White 3000K would be nice. About $4.60 a piece when purchased (cough) 1,000 at a time. 
http://www.digikey.com/product-deta...000US60E7/XMLBWT-00-0000-000US60E7-ND/3778357
Anyone know of a reseller in the USA that sells these by the piece?


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## atlr (Mar 25, 2013)

Ace12 said:


> Anyone know the color temperature of the NW compared to the CW?


Looking at the Cree datasheet, the XM-L T6 Cool White is available in the range of 5700K to 6200K with 65 CTI and the XM-L T5 Neutral White is available in the range of 4000K to 5000K with 75 CRI.
http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C... Modules/XLamp/Data and Binning/XLampXMBL.pdf


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## atlr (Mar 25, 2013)

Bolster said:


> I would love to transplant the H502c's emitter into the SD52NW, but obviously the SD52NW is very useable as is. Would I prefer to use TWO H502c's to a single SD52NW? I believe I would. But I don't own two H502c's.



Here is my guess at what the lumens output by a Warm White Cree XM-L2 90 CRI in a Spark SD52 could be:


*Spark SD52 
w/ 2 AA NiMH**Cree XM-L 75 CRI**Cree XM-L2 90 CRI**Hours **lm**lm*1.5280 2201.9200 1607 70 6043 1210


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## Alt_F4 (May 6, 2013)

My simple mod to SD52 to improve the performance of standard reflector.


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## Knight_Light (May 6, 2013)

Alt_F4 said:


> My simple mod to SD52 to improve the performance of standard reflector.


 I am assuming most people know what you did by coloring the reflector. What would be interesting is to see the results and how much of an improvement it really is as well as the process that you utilize to achieve your results. In other words can you quantify the improvement as well as document the methodology utilized to achieve the improvement.


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## TSellers (May 6, 2013)

I was kind of wondering as well what had been done and guessed it was painting the reflector. As I run all the SD series Spark's it would be good to know what kind of improvement to expect from this MOD.

Since the last lpost I have run my SD52 with one 4.2v 14500 Li-Ion cell and a dummy cell. As I have noticed you don't really get any "Super" mode with NiMh cells, I now never run my SD52 with anything other than 2 LiFePO4 cells or 1 Li-Ion cell with a dummy cell. For someone looking for improved output that would be the first and most important change you could make.


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## Alt_F4 (May 7, 2013)

English is not my language, but i could try to explain.

I don't have a scientific method to measure the improvement of the amount of light emitted, but I can do some simple considerations.








(at med&max mode it is blinding)

And this is a wall beamshot (about 30-40 cm from the wall) , as you can see now there is a slightly hot spot ( strange colors are probably caused by my camera ).





In the real usage you can't really notice the hot spot, but at my eyes there is a little improvement of the amount of light emitted.


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## Knight_Light (May 7, 2013)

TSellers said:


> I have run my SD52 with one 4.2v 14500 Li-Ion cell and a dummy cell. As I have noticed you don't really get any "Super" mode with NiMh cells, I now never run my SD52 with anything other than 2 LiFePO4 cells or 1 Li-Ion cell with a dummy cell. For someone looking for improved output that would be the first and most important change you could make.


 Which set up do you prefer and why? What are your estimated output levels on low, medium 1, and medium 2? What are your runtimes on those levels? The reason I ask is because for me the most utilized mode is the 80 lm. It's almost perfect but I crave a little bit more. Anything over 120 lm would probably be overkill. That is the reason I am asking these questions is that I am wondering if I can achieve the output levels I desire with a different battery chemistry.


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## Knight_Light (May 7, 2013)

Alt_F4 said:


> And this is a wall beamshot (about 30-40 cm from the wall) , as you can see now there is a slightly hot spot ( strange colors are probably caused by my camera ).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 First of all let me start by saying thank you for this information. The fact that you now have a small hotspot would be a definite dealbreaker for me. One of the things I really love about this light is that it has no hotspot whatsoever unless you utilize the optional reflector in which case it is tolerable because you are operating with different goals in mind.


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## Alt_F4 (May 7, 2013)

Knight_Light said:


> First of all let me start by saying thank you for this information. The fact that you now have a small hotspot would be a definite dealbreaker for me. One of the things I really love about this light is that it has no hotspot whatsoever unless you utilize the optional reflector in which case it is tolerable because you are operating with different goals in mind.



for me it's the opposite. I don't like total flood and the optional reflector is too much focused. In this way i have a good balance.


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## Knight_Light (May 7, 2013)

Alt_F4 said:


> for me it's the opposite. I don't like total flood and the optional reflector is too much focused. In this way i have a good balance.


 It's all about personal preferences.


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## TSellers (May 7, 2013)

*Re: Spark SD52- Beamshots from Altitude*





Caption: "Notice here how the SD52 is not as bright as the previous spot picture because it used NiMh cells for this shot. 2 AA NiMh cells have only 2.4v nominal, whereas the driver circuit requires >3v to develop 280 lumens for this light. 1 LiFePO4 cell gives 3.2v and you can use 2 of them to get 6.4v and run times of 1:45hrs."






Caption: "The SD52 uses AA cells, but you need to use the LiFePO4 AA cells, or 1 14550 Li-Ion to get turbo mode, NiMh does not give you maximum lumens."

(Images Linked with full Permission and rights).


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## Trevtrain (May 8, 2013)

*Replacing the emitter?*

Is anyone who owns one of these and has taken the bezel off able to offer an opinion about how easy it would be to replace the emitter with the XM-L2 CRI 90 mentioned in post #122.


_Is there a star under that (now painted white) "reflector"? Can the reflector be removed to get at it?_
_Ideally I'd be looking for a simple(ish) retrofit as anything involving a reflow would be out of the question._
Edit: DOH! Just saw video. Can anyone tell me what diameter is the star?

The lack of step-down/abrupt cutoff is disappointing on its own, but when combined with lack of a high CRI option this light is really a no-go for me I think. High CRI in a headlamp makes perfect sense for reasons already posted in this thread.


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## atlr (May 8, 2013)

*Re: Replacing the emitter?*



Trevtrain said:


> Can anyone tell me what diameter is the star?


I have an SD-6 that I think has the same emitter and star/MCPCB as the SD52. The MCPCB on the SD6 is 11.5 mm. I considered baking my own about a month ago and only got as far as searching for parts.

11.5mm MCPCB source https://illuminationsupply.com/115mm-xml-mcpcb-p-209.html#.UYsy8LWG18E

Looking at the Cree XML binning sheet (XLampXMBL.pdf), the XM-L2 with a CRI of 90+, the coolest CCT and the highest luminous flux has the flux code S6 and CCT of 3000 K. The order code is XMLBWT-00-0000-000US60Z7. This one is hard to find for ordering a quantity of 1. Mouser is selling single units
Here are links to keep an eye on availability.
potential XML2 S6 aka XMLBWT-00-0000-000US60Z7 sources 
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectroni...usfj?Keyword=XMLBWT-00-0000-000US60Z7&FS=True
http://octopart.com/parts/search?q=XMLBWT-00-0000-000US60Z7

Take a look at messages from Thatspec in this thread for an account of assembling and swapping a MCPCB and LED.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?323342-Spark-SD6&p=4135882&viewfull=1#post4135882

Like you, I would rather find an already assembled 11.5 mm MCPCB with this LED. I sent a note to Spark to express my interest in a high CRI LED option, [email protected].


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## TSellers (May 9, 2013)

*Re: Replacing the emitter?*

This all makes me think that it would be great if the Spark's were manufactured in such a way you could upgrade or swap out the drivers and emitters easily. I've accidently unscrewed the end cap with the driver in it a couple of times so it shouldn't be all that hard. Would be neat if you could have some different end caps with different drivers that you could change in and out as required. And as Spark already has the screw-in bezel, perhaps they could make a similar arrangement where the emitter of your choice screws in with the bezel. While it may burn a hole in their forehead, some might want the ability to swap the driver and run an XM-L2 at 2.8A for example. 

Otherwise if I want a 3000K high CRI light I'd probably go the easy route and just get a cheap DIY host, driver, and emitter on a star, and assemble them from scratch.


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## Trevtrain (May 9, 2013)

*Re: Replacing the emitter?*

@altr
Thanks for the links and info - certainly some more interesting reading there.

@TSellers
Your ideas are novel, but I really don't envisage too many manufacturers wanting to provide that level of customisation. Most of what you describe falls strictly within the category of "modding" and would naturally void any warranties. Still, we can dream I suppose...

As to your comments about "going the easy route" with a "cheap DIY host" - perhaps you know something I don't? 



I've yet to see a headlamp host. 
I've yet to see a 2xAA side-by-side host of any kind. 
Good drivers supporting 2xAA seem to be exceedingly rare. 
 
If you can point me at any of these I would be grateful.


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## TSellers (May 9, 2013)

*Re: Replacing the emitter?*



> I've yet to see a headlamp host.
> I've yet to see a 2xAA side-by-side host of any kind.
> Good drivers supporting 2xAA seem to be exceedingly rare.



Correct on all. I should have been more specific and said, "If I wanted to achieve those beam characteristics". Also for the poster that didn't want to have to reflow, the only XM-L2 on a star that I noticed so far was more than double in the tint range value, so my alternative would still be problematic. And the last point is a good one, as perhaps the drivers for the SD52 might be judged to not be all that great in light of the fact you need to use something that will give a higher voltage if you want full lumens on burst mode.


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## grimpanda (Nov 29, 2013)

*Re: Replacing the emitter?*

TSellers,

Can you give any tips on removing the driver-end cap? I have an SD73 that I suspect has some corrosion from some bad/leaky batteries, and the end cap doesn't want to budge by hand. I'm reluctant to take the vice-grips to it without knowing if it is normal or reverse thread (assuming it IS threaded?)

Thanks.



TSellers said:


> This all makes me think that it would be great if the Spark's were manufactured in such a way you could upgrade or swap out the drivers and emitters easily. I've accidently unscrewed the end cap with the driver in it a couple of times so it shouldn't be all that hard. Would be neat if you could have some different end caps with different drivers that you could change in and out as required. And as Spark already has the screw-in bezel, perhaps they could make a similar arrangement where the emitter of your choice screws in with the bezel. While it may burn a hole in their forehead, some might want the ability to swap the driver and run an XM-L2 at 2.8A for example.
> 
> Otherwise if I want a 3000K high CRI light I'd probably go the easy route and just get a cheap DIY host, driver, and emitter on a star, and assemble them from scratch.


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