# AN/VSS-1 Searchlight



## CarbonArc

Well I figured someone needed to start a thread on this light. a bunch of us here (including myself have purchased this beast) and are trying to get them up and running. Any photos of progress or anything related to AN/VSS-1(V)2 would be great for all of us im sure. So POST away.:wave: 




Does anyone have any tech drawings or diagrams for this searchlight? any pics of connectors on remote boxes and the light? what kind of connectors/ cables would i need to make to get one of these things running? any pics or advice or any knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks


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## Jumpmaster

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Start here:

https://www.logsa.army.mil/etms/dat...689f89eb8-E4DAEECC-CE85-D0A8-CE4E8FAFE5C19661

https://www.logsa.army.mil/etms/dat...689f89eb8-E4DAEECC-CE85-D0A8-CE4E8FAFE5C19661

JM-99


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Connectors. The connector mating the control box is a MS3106F22-23S (amphenol). Places like Powell Electronics and Newark One carry it.
The connector “configuration” for the cable coming form the light is: (Wall Mount) MS3100E32-15S BUT is will not fit the plug as the Bessel alignment slots do not match and the thread diameter of the cable is larger (so it can not be screwed together. One solution is cutting the sleeve of the wall mount connector, which worked fine for me. Let me know if you find the proper plug.
Willem.


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

The lights from Peak Beam systems are supposed to come with the single cable which connects the searchlight to the tank's turret. It carries both the 2 main power and 6 control leads. The connector on the turret connected to the turret slip ring assembly which I presume rotates with the turret. The control box connected to the stationary, hull-mounted portion of the slip ring assembly. I saw a pic of one and there are a huge number of electrical connections between the hull and the rotating turret. I think the turrets could rotate continuously without winding-up anything.

The crate was broken-open on mine and appeared to have been dropped/rolled over. The control box and cable were missing.  At that point, I didn't understand the "main" cable was included! It was only after calls to Roadway Express and then Peak Beam that I got it figured out. Peak has already sent a replacement cable and control box, and the UPS tracking# says I should receive it next wed. :bow: and :thumbsup: Peak Beam Systems and Robert!!!

Getting it running should be straight forward. Simply cut the turret connector on the cable and break out the 2 main power and 6 control leads. Robert faxed me the schematic and pinouts for the searchlight end and the control box end. Thank you ShortArc for the connector info. :bow: (I had almost "built" the Amphenol P/N for the light's mating connector when I was told it was supposed to be included. :green: )

I've just started designing a motorized alt/azmuth mount for it, which hopefully will be built by the time my genset arrives in another 4 weeks. (If I wasn't lied to.)

Larry


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Once you sink your teeth into is these lights are not too difficult to fire up.
I finally powered mine after building a new cable (did not want to cut up the supplied main cable) and modifying a rectifier for power. I did have a minor issue with turning off the light via the control panel….
All in all this light is a performance monster…no regrets I can assure you (beside the weight)…
Larry please keep me posted on progress with the mount and send some pics !!!

Willem.


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Willem,

Your "issue" with turning it off via the control panel concerns me! If you break main power to the light per Robert's schematic, does the cooling fan continue to run on its timer via control panel power?

Congradulations on being the first of us to get one up and running!!!!!!

Larry


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Larry,

Indeed I have to figure out what is going on with the shut off. 

I am not too concerned about the cooling of the light as it appears to be designed for “emergency powerdown” but it certainly would induce less thermal stress if the fan kept running after the light is turned off (versus simply pulling the plug) . Will keep you posted.

If I ever figure out how to paste some pics into my response, I will do so.

Willem.


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Here are a few pics of cable and connectors:


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Nice Pics! :thumbsup:

Yesterday, I removed the shockmount assembly which attaches the searchlight to the tank. My bathroom scale says 35+#. The manual says the complete light weighs 230#, so I guess it's under 200# now.  I pulled the cowling/bezel for a look see. Next time I will have some denatured alcohol and appropriate soft cloth to give the window and reflector a good cleaning.

Larry


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## SilverFox

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Hello ShortArc,

And what does "Overdrive" do?

Tom


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Tom,
Overdrive kicks the current draw up from approx 100 amps to 140 amps and increases the output substantially. The light can only remain in overdrive for a timed period.
Willem.


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Larry,

I am going to remove the shock mount assembly tonight! My back thanks you! 

In the next several days I will try and get the light out of the barn and take some beam shots.
Willem.


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## skunked

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Here is another one
http://saturnsurplus.com/lights/search.htm


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Mine arrived with the original May 1977 manual that JumpMaster posted a link to above. The manual has excellent photos with nomenclatures and drawings for how the infrared/visable and wide/narrow works. Some specs in a nutshell:

Type of light................Visable or infrared.
Type of lamp................Xenon, short arc.
Output candlepower:
Normal......................100 million.
Overdrive..................150 million.
Beamwidth
Narrrow.....................0.5deg to 0.75deg.
Wide.........................7.0deg.
Input power requirements:
Voltage......................28 volts dc.
Current:
Nominal....................100 amperes
Overdrive.................140 amperes

Some text from the "Basic Principles" section:

"Three voltages are applied to the xenon lamp to produce the three sequences: 40-kilovolt (kv) radio frequency (rf) pulses, 55 volts dc, and 28 volts dc from the power source. The 40-kv rf pulses cause the initial ionization of the xenon gas and start of lamp conductance. The 55 volts dc increases the temperature of the xenon gas and increases the level of conduction so that 28 volts dc from the power source can maintain lamp conductance for continual illumination. After 3 seconds, the components and assemblies used for the initial ignition of the xenon lamp are shut off. The sequences will automatically be repeated if the xenon lamp is not lighted within the initial 3 seconds."

The searchlight housing is two aluminum castings. I thought it was wrought/welded when I first looked at it. It is forced-air cooled and has some kind of heat exchanger that keeps the lamp cooling air isolated from the environment. The "cowling" (bezel) which mounts the window is gasketed and removes with 4 latches for routine maintenance such as cleaning the reflector and window.

Hell of a "flashlight" for $600!!!!

Larry


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Ahh....$600...you have just started! Hell of a deal no matter how much invest before everything is done!

A few more pics...sorry the quality is not that great.


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Here are the operating modes:


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## CarbonArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Bump


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Excellent pics! I see your refractor lens also seems to have "6deg" molded into it. 

My light is an AN/VSS-1(V)1 which has a "black IR filter, which is used with IR viewing devices. The black filter emits a glow which may be visable out to 100 meters....The AN/VSS-1(V)2 uses a pink IR filter, which can be used with IR viewing and image intensifying devices. The pink filter emits a glow which may be visable from 800 to 1000 meters." (From the manual.) IR "viewing devices" were used in the Korean War. Image intensifiers/"starlight scopes" didn't come along until the Vietnam War. I recall hearing of them referred to as "pink lights." 

Here's one mounted on the proper PSU:





And the "warning label":





Larry


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## Kiessling

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Now we're talking ! 
Gentlemen ... I request pics of this "thing" in action! I'd appreciate some pics where it destroys lights like the Maxabeam, X990 et al.
:wave:
bernie


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Bernie, I don't know about "destroying" my Maxabeam (hanging on the right) or X990 (top left.) It does give an _aperature size_ comparison. :green:






Larry


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## Kiessling

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Oh ... it is ... well ... BIG :devil:


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Connectors: I thought I mentioned it before but www.newark.com or www.powell.com are two sources.
IR: I heard the lights being called “Pink Eye” and the troops were not all that happy about it either!

Larry, love those pics…just don’t turn them against each other…that could be trouble or melt down!


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## SilverFox

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Hello Willem,

140+ amps is a reasonably *high* current draw... 

Let's see, using 3700 mAh sub C cells, if you put together a 24S45P pack you could probably get an hour of run time... With a 100 amp charger you could charge it back up in around 3 hours.

Do you think you can bounce a beam off the reflectors on the moon? 

Impressive.

Tom


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Willem, do yoy have Newark's cat# for the control box mating connector? The MS number is a bust on the Newark and Amphenol search functions. (Powell's price seems a little high, as Newark lists a 22 shell for ~$13. It's gold on ITT/Canon's site and in stock a couple of places I've never heard of. Also, that number seems to be the connector without the cable clamp. I understand CarbonArc's consternation. Specifying those things can be a PITA. 

Larry


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Let me confirm tomorrow but this is a cut and paste from my quote:ITEM DETAILS:
-------------
Newark InOne Part #:86H3031; MIL SPEC:MIL-C-5015 A/B/C; BODY MATERIAL:METAL; SERIES:MS3106A; INSERT ARRANGEMENT:22-23; NUMBER OF CONTACTS:8; CONNECTOR SHELL SIZE:22; CONNECTOR TYPE:INDUSTRIAL CIRCULAR CONNECTOR; CONNECTING TERMINATION:SOLDER
Quantity: 1 @ $45.780 = $45.78


ITEM DETAILS:
-------------
Newark InOne Part #:96J7137; MIL SPEC:MIL-C-5015 E/F/R; BODY MATERIAL:METAL; SERIES:MS3100E; INSERT ARRANGEMENT:32-15; NUMBER OF CONTACTS:8; CONNECTOR SHELL SIZE:32; CONNECTOR TYPE:INDUSTRIAL CIRCULAR CONNECTOR; CONNECTING TERMINATION:SOLDER
Quantity: 1 @ $67.920 = $67.92

ORDER TOTAL:
-------------
$113.70
Tax and Freight will be shown on the invoice, if applicable.


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

:bow: ShortArc and thank you Sir! I would have had to wait until the replacement control box arrived to "build" the cat# from Newark. (I didn't know it was 8-pin. until you posted your control box pic.) If it is out of stock, I will get it from Powell for $6 more, 
Edit: Newark's site says out of stock- lead time 89 days! (Why I favor Digikey! )

Thank you again, Sir!

Larry


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## CarbonArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Does anyone know what pin H on the control box does?


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Here is a link to a useful PDF, explaining Amphenol nomenclature a little better.

When ever possible I try and use E or F series connectors.

http://www.amphenol-socapex.com/pdf/MIL-C-5015%20Rear%20release.pdf

Also don’t be surprised if the connectors come with parts missing (pins, strain relief, etc)

Almost no supplier stocks these and inventory usually refers to Amphenol’s. Lead times for non-stocked parts reflect build time and are usually expedited a lot quicker. It may not be a bad idea to call your regional Ampenol Rep and get specifics on lead time.

Cheers.


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Might as well complete my post by adding a few pictures of the power supply.

The first picture shows a 60A/28VDC linear power supply weighing roughly 90lbs. On the right is a 150A/28VDC switching power supply (weighing 25lbs) used with the VSS1. The rest of the shots just show the modification to it.


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## jtice

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

This thread boggles my mind! oo:

These things look super cool !!!!!
Too bad they weigh so much, just that light itself weighs 200 lbs??? wow

The $600 for it seems like a steal, but it seems you will have another $600 just to power it. 

Cant wait to see more updates!!! Keep the pics comming pleeeease! 

~John


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## skunked

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Tease tease, when are we to get some beam shots?


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Armed with ShortArc's info for the control box mating connector. I quickly found Mouser and Digikey don't list it with the other Amphenol 97-3106 stuff. Allied listed it for $32.02, but came up "backorder" on the cart. On a whim a called their CS and the shells and inserts are in stock!  The "backorder" is because they have to assemble it, and she said it would ship today.

Connector: Allied Electronics cat# 605-4100 $32.02
Cable clamp: " " " 714-2564 ~$6.50

And I got a 200A 24vdc SPST N.O. relay for $44.15 (cat# 576-1079)

I should have the control box and connector by the end of the week to verify everything. The replacement lamp I ordered off ebay arrived today. I may post a pic. (Sucker's over a foot long!)

Larry


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

In Peak Beam Sys's sale thread for the lights, Robert mentioned some would be held as spare parts cows. I wisecracked "how much for a spare lamp" and :bow: lotsalumens posted an ebay link which I jumped on. It arrived today. I have been unable to find any info on servicing the internals of the searchlight so far. No clue as to the P/N for the lamp or its change procedure. The lamp came in a black cardboard tube with telescopic ends. The battered side label instructions, if followed would eliminate the possibility of some one touching it during replacement:





The upper end of the lamp has a pivoting , 2-finger bail that could permit it to be carried like an Osram lantern. :green: There are two large foam rubber rings that I assume are displaced for discard during lamp insertion. The arc gap looks to be 3/16-1/4"  The acceptance tag has a date of 3/3/64! It was made by the Hanovia Div. of Engelhard Industries in NJ. There is no outer glass UV shield, and if the voltage specs on the ebay post are correct, it is overdriven at the "stock" 28vdc!





(I suspect Mr TB is exhibiting some antisocial behaviour at this point. :green:  )

Larry


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## BVH

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Larry, do I dare say that you may have just found the "better flashlight" (your sig line) that might enable you to find your happy a** with both hands?


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

When I got the field test USL, I commented I would have to be veery careful in that never-ending endeavor!  The front end of this thing ain't gonna get anywhere near my unadorned/otherwise a**!  

Larry


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## CarbonArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Well here is an update. 

I have purchased the AN/VSS-1(V) 2 and have also purchased a 3kw 107A government generator. I plan on using the generator in parallel with a series of batteries to provide the light with enough amperage when I kick it into over drive (however I do not know how much I will be really using overdrive seeing as the mode only lasts about 17 seconds) in my circuit design so far I have 3 solenoid relays designed into the system (one for the power from the generator) (one for the battery power) (one to charge the batteries when needed) the third has an auto sensing charging feature. Hopefully if my parts come in I will be able to finish the circuit by the weekend.



As for mounting I am designing a turret out of steel. It works on a similar concept to a merry-go round. I have a 3" o.d. steel pipe sliding into a 3" id pipe. (both sch. 40) I will cap the inside pipe. Put some bearings on top grease it up and slide the other pipe on top (after it is also capped). The bottom pipe will be welded to a 15"x15" steel plate with gussets. The light will most likely be welded onto some sort of moveable platform on top of this assembly (I haven’t worked out the details for this yet).



I didn’t mention before but this whole setup will be mounted on a trailer so it will be "portable"

Hopefully I will have some time to get some photos up here soon. (like tonight or tommorow)


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

The cable and control box arrived today. Anybody notice this:











Yup, glow-in-the-dark!

My light is devoid of any manufacturer's mark. I've been curious as to who made the things. The control box has a label that says Varo, Inc. Garland, Texas and another which says Overhauled Tobyhanna Army Depot Date 10-80. The light itself has a label saying overhauled Tobyhanna Depot 3-85. A google of Varo, Inc. reveals they became VHC/IMO and were bought by Litton Industries in '95, now Northrup Grumman. There were a bunch of divisions and the search was very confusing.

Larry


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

I fear I may have a wiring problem or faulty control box or something else…it would explain my not being able to shut down the light.​ 
Could someone check power on the pins of the control box?

I used a 12DC power source on pin A(+) and G(-). This is which pins I found to be hot in the different modes:

1. OFF POS
IR Wide: D
IR Focus: “none”
VIS Wide: E, D
VIS Focus: “none”

2.STANDBY
IR Wide: D,C,B
IR Focus: “none”
VIS Wide: E,D,C,B
VIS Focus: “none”

3.ON
IR Wide: F,D,C,B
IR Focus: “none”
VIS Wide: E,F,D,C,B
VIS Focus: “none”


Thanks,
Willem.


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Hi Willem,

The scheme Robert at Peak Beam faxed me shows +28V should be supplied to pin D on the control box by pinD on the searchlight:





Larry


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Larry,
That really helps. I did not have that information so I just matched pin for pin.
Willem.


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Willem, let us know if that resolves the "fan" issue. I see considerable corrosion on the heat exchanger fins at the inlet and outlet on mine. At least one manual suggests running water through it to clean "debris." Maybe some H2S04/water would remove the corrosion and restore heat exchanger efficacy? (Don says I'm "anal" and he's right!)

From my PMs I know at _least_ one other CPF'r was going to buy one! Fess-up! 

Larry


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Again, thanks for the info. Will let you know how I make out. Have to leave on a business trip for a week this Saturday, so Larry, your light may be up and running before I get back!!!!
Cleaning the heat exchanger probably is not a bad idea.
If there are enough people who will buy these light maybe we can all chip in and buy one as spare for parts.
Willem.


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Hi willem,

Just sent you an EM with the rest of the info attached. I have to be back in your neck of the woods in 2-4 weeks for 1 week+. (RI then CT) My "PSU" is still 2-4 weeks out, so you will be back before mine is up and running. I like your idea of a shared parts light! (I think I already have a lamp.  ) 

If I get it up and running (sweating bullets!) I will offer a get-together, Memorial Day weekend at my shack at the end of tvod Rd, out in the Mojave and (with some help) there should be some pretty good beamshots!  

Larry


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Larry,

Thanks got the info. Well I hope I don’t have a parts light on my hands, involuntarily!

Given the proper pinout schematic, I may have very well fried the “beast” Now it all makes sense that I could not turn off the light and that the fan motor was running right away after powerup! Before I invest in a relay (or use a breaker I already own – as a switch), I will have to just try and power it up by manual switching. 

We will see what happens!

Willem.


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Well, it looks like I may have burned out the igniter (or something).

As I am taking the light apart anyway I thought I would post a few pics.

On the top right (fist pic) is where the igniter is suppose to be mounted.

Second pic shows the igniter and third pic shows the heat exchanger. Good old Trane! Oh well, such is life…

Willem.


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## Meduza

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

ohh... hope you can get it going...


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

That's a bummer, Willem! :mecry: Post# 1 here has contact info for Robert at Peak Beam, and post# 33 seems to indicate some hope! The manual says there were two ignitor assy's used in the things and they are fully interchangeable. (#'s 9911 and F50006) As Robert (a fellow engineer) cautioned against what happened to you, he may know for sure what blew. :shrug:

My control box mating connector and relay arrived today, and the Allied cat#'s I posted above are gold! (Hopefully helps CarbonArc.) I also bought a 15ohm, 5W resistor to keep the 24vdc relay coil current at "stock" level  I hope to start fabbing my mount this weekend. Good luck with fixing it!!!!!

Larry


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## CarbonArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Well i finally got my light up and running... that is the good news. however it only ran for about 5 minutes then it shut off, it seems like I had a faulty solenoid. However I replaced it and now the light will not power up. The beam was truly amazing. I have checked and double checked and then triple checked all of my wiring, and everything seems to be fine in that respect.

Initially the red indicator light on the control box worked (when the light functioned), however now it does not. it seems that all of the focusing/ shield changing contols on the control box work fine. I guess I am going to have to tear apart my light as well to see if the ignitor is the problem. Also I plan on checking the bulb.

Does anyone have any suggestions?


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

According to the manual, the red light on the control box only lights when the searchlight is in overdrive or if the temperature rises to high. Also, there should be a circuit breaker on the relay panel, which is immediately below the ignitor assembly. It looks like you have to remove the reflector to check it.

Larry


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

CarbonArc:

In essence the same thing happened to me. When I could not turn the light off due to the incorrect wiring scheme I simply killed the power supply. In theory that should have powered down everything “simultaneously” and not caused a problem with the igniter, however when I tried to start up again, nothing happened. I am assuming the igniter is toast? Also the circuit breaker tvodrd mentioned you can get to without removing the mirror but if you plan on having as much fun as I you will be removing a lot more! 

Cheers,

Willem.


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## CarbonArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

ShortArc


I have removed the entire assembly as you have. hopefully I am not stuck with a "parts light" but oh well, I am having the igniter tested by one of my EE friends. hopefully I will be able to find something to replace it... if not I guess ill have to shell out another 500 to get a new light... oh well its only money  if i find out that the igniter is definitely the problem i will let you know, i will post some pictures tonight hopefully.


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

I'm at least 3 weeks behind you guys. I followed-up on my genset, and it sounds like mid April.  I sure hope someone can chase down one of the "internal/depot" service manuals for them! Given the age of these things, those igniters could contain vacuum tubes! 

I have what appears to be an early light, S/N 575, which presumably has the rebuildable relay panel assembly. Due to light surface corrosion, the printing on the small motors is long gone. I need to disassemble my replacement control box as the indicator light's housing spins in the panel. I hope to get started on my mount this weekend, but am having misgivings due to the problems you guys have experienced. Like, should I test it first before spending more time/$ on it. :shrug:



Larry


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## Phased_Array

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Some indicator lights have rotating dimming housings.


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

tvodrd:

My suggestion would seriously be to fire the light up first (quick and dirty) and then start on all the refinements. When everything works many of us will flock to buy your drawings for the mount. 

Willem.

PS. SN on mine is 630, Inspection date 7-17-91.


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Phased, it is a dimmable indicator with lamp replaceable from the front. The entire assembly is loose in the panel.

ShortArc, the mount will be Q&D- aluminum trunions in stamped pillow blocks and chain drive from some fairly small gearmotors. (Small enough that I'd better get the trunions pretty close to through the CG or I'll have to add a manual brake. :green: ) I doubt I will need to do drawings and the pics/details will be free! I think I will take your advice and Q&D test it prior to inve$ting too much more time in it.

Larry


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## CarbonArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

You can check out some pictures here. some of them are redundant to shortarc's

http://community.webshots.com/user/carbonarc101


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

No such thing as redundant when it comes to good illustrations (pics alike)! 

Did you look inside the igniter yet? Nicely potted!


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## CarbonArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

yes opened it up lots of potting :-(


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

If I keep goosing them, I expect my genset to power it mid April. I have cables/lugs/fuze/relay and most everything to light it. My light is in poorer condition than yours, based on the pics posted. I'm kind or wondering, given the missing cable/control if I may have been inadvertantly shipped one of PBS's "parts lights?" (There was a "shipping issue" with the MaxaBeam I bought from them on the CPF group buy. :shrug:

Larry


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## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Tvodrd, I just noticed the folks I bought my rectifier from have more for sale. http://cgi.ebay.com/HC-POWER-INC-MSR24-150-MODULAR-RECTIFIER-150-AMP-NEW_W0QQitemZ7602981017QQcategoryZ73142QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Sure you don’t need an alternate power source when the grid is available? Mid April is just too far in the future…

Willem.


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## CarbonArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Anyone have any ideas what to do about a burnt out ignitor??? tried searching for the part however i have not had any luck so far.


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## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

CA, see my post #47 above and give Robert a call. How sure are you guys that the ignitor is the problem? The relay panel or convertor assembly seem equally capable culprits for your problems. Me, I'm just sweating bullets! 

Larry


----------



## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

CarbonArc,

I talked to Robert at PBS yesterday. He will look into spare igniters. However, they are in the process of moving to a new facility at the moment so give them a call in a week or so.

Willem.


----------



## greenLED

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

You guys are absolutely nuts! (I mean that as a compliment.)
 waiting for pics of those lit-up puppies!
:twothumbs


----------



## CarbonArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

I have my rig up and running. Beamshots tonight (weather permitting) ill get some pictures now of my rig.

Here are some pictures of the running rig. I still need to finish my turret for mounting.

http://community.webshots.com/user/carbonarc100


----------



## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

CarbonArc,

What did the problem turn out to be?

Larry


----------



## ShortArc

Indeed! Let us know what the problem was. Your solution may also be mine, although having wired pin for pin more than likely toasted the igniter!
Nice wiring job!


Willem.


----------



## tvodrd

Hopefully, the weather wasn't permitting, or camera problems, or better things to do with the time! :green:

Larry


----------



## CarbonArc

As for the problem i really do not know what was wrong. I diassembled prettymuch the entire light and checked everything I noticed a small amount of corrosion on the top end of the bulb itself. I dont know if that was the problem or not. I know corrosion in a dc circuit is a very bad thing (any circuit) for that matter. 

I have some beamshots however I fear that they are not very good quality due to my limited experience with night-time photography. Sorry I did not post them last night but it was late.
Beamshots are here!! http://community.webshots.com/user/carbonarc100 
These pictures definitely do not do the light justice. Also note that the relative humidity last night was almost 0%


So I fired the light up and had it running for about half an hour. Absolutely no problems. I plan on testing it for longer periods in the days to come. 

I live in a pretty rural (under trafficed) area. It was pretty funny when I was testing the light many cars slowed down and honked or stopped on the side of the road. One person actually stopped in and talked to us for a while (they were wondering what was going on).


----------



## ShortArc

CarbonArc,

Congratulations! Did you try overdrive? 

Cheers,

Willem.


----------



## lotsalumens

Congratulations CarbonArc!!

How loud is that thing running? The heat exchanger in the VSS-3 is not exactly quiet, but it sort of adds to the fun of the light to hear it roar to life. I imagine the VSS-1 must be similar.



Charles


----------



## CarbonArc

The fan is loud however not louder then the generator powering it


----------



## tvodrd

I followed-up with ecycle re my genset this morning. Latest is ship week of the 20th.  I have been buying more mount stuff, and have a pretty good mental picture of what it will take. I'm losing sleep (or having happy nightmares, over firing it off for the first time!  ) Here's a 10 year old 360 of my testing range. 

Larry


----------



## Stillphoto

Very nice little 10 shot stitch job on that pano of your test range...Certainly not in Costa Mesa tho...Looks like a great spot for some sunset shots.


----------



## woodrow

note to self...before bragging about any "bright" flashlight I have that would smoke a ____whatever____....remember that there are always people who play in a whole other league.

Thanks for the glimpse into the really big leagues.

ps. I think I saw your light in use the other day...it was noon and I looked up...and there it was! Your batteries died about 7:45 pm though.. oh well.


----------



## ShortArc

Tvodrd, if my VSS-3 ever qualifies as “carry on” luggage, I may just meet you there for a shootout!

Nice Pic.

Willem.


----------



## tvodrd

That's my get-away shack out in the Mojave desert near Landers, CA. It's about 130 miles/2,5-3 hours from CM. Means dry lake is to the north and is ~2.5 miles. It's a legal OHV recreation area and you see some pretty big happenings on holiday weekends. Perfect for some serious flashlight testing!  Willem, Please PM me if you come across another VSS-3 for sale!!!!!!!!!!!! 

Larry


----------



## Aristo

wowie, man I'm in total awe of that puppy
the beamshot pics I saw, at least the thumbnails, looked black. so er?


----------



## CarbonArc

Aristo 


The beamshots do not do this ligth justice. I am just a inexperienced night time photographer. If anyone has suggestions on how to setup a sony dsc f717 digital mavica for the night time photography let me know and i will get some more beamshots.


----------



## Aristo

CarbonArc said:


> Aristo
> 
> 
> The beamshots do not do this ligth justice. I am just a inexperienced night time photographer. If anyone has suggestions on how to setup a sony dsc f717 digital mavica for the night time photography let me know and i will get some more beamshots.


I've had the same prob with my sony at night and I am an experienced photographer. I am just gonna use my film cam and get a good capture to a cd for night shots. even a point and shoot with no flash does better at night then some digi cams. if you lived near me I'd come by and get some night shots with my film cam for ya.


----------



## chinkaroo

Hi All, I'm new to this web site, but very happy that I have found all these people with the same interest as me. Two days ago I received my an/vss-1 search light. I figured hooking this bad boy up would be pretty straight foward, not so. All information and advice would be helpfull. Holding my breath till I can fire her up


----------



## CarbonArc

roo

you may find these pictures helpful

http://community.webshots.com/user/carbonarc100


----------



## ShortArc

All the information to successfully wire the light should be present in this thread. The wiring schematic show in post #39 is of vital importance. Don’t make the same mistake I did and wire pin for pin.


----------



## chinkaroo

Thanks Guys, After looking at CarbonArc's photo's and the schematic posted by ShortArc this wiring problem of mine all started to come together. As soon as I can locate a 150 watt generator I should be off and running. Many Thanks, Chinkaroo


----------



## chinkaroo

Proof Reading, thats what I need to do. I ment a 150 amp generator not 150 watt. God help me. Chinkaroo


----------



## CarbonArc

Does anyone have any updates with progress?


----------



## ShortArc

CarbonArc:

Still waiting for Bob from Peakbeam to move to his new location. Once there he promised to send out a new igniter! Hopefully next week he will get his hands on one which I am anxiously awaiting. I may also (time permitting) bring back my VSS-3 from Maine (back to Mass) or visa versa and do a shootout between the two but those are all future plans once I get the VSS-1 up and running again.

Willem.


----------



## tvodrd

Last I spoke with Ecycle, they said "the week of the 20th" to ship my genset. I just want mine up and running by Memorial Day weekend. I *think* I have found a VSS-3, and will know for sure by the end of the month.  Willem, did yours come with 2 control boxes? I will also have to make-up the cables.

Larry


----------



## ShortArc

tvodrd:
Yes, mine came with two control boxes but I only wired one because of cost.
I have all the connector info (lotsalumens did most of the research here). Also wiring gauges should be matched to internal wiring of the VSS-3 (not connector wiring), this will save you a few gauges.
If you find another VSS-3, let me know…I am in for a second. 
PS. You will be doing a lot of soldering.
Willem.


----------



## tvodrd

ShortArc said:


> PS. You will be doing a lot of soldering.
> Willem.



I love the smell of rosin in the morning!  (I'll pass it on that you are also looking for another.)

Larry


----------



## lotsalumens

tvodrd, the second control box on the VSS-3 just has a redundant subset of the controls on the main box. I am guessing that the gunner or driver used the main panel, and the small remote box could be used by the commander. Given the price of some of these connectors and the number of pins on the small panel, I opted never to hook mine up.



Charles


----------



## RalphRussell

Check out eBay item # 6621575136. It looks like a AN/VSS-3 but the seller doesn't show any pictures of it. He only shows pictures from the manual. It looks like it could be a good deal. At the time of this post, it has zero bids and ends in 2 days 20 hours. I already have one or I'd be interested. Enjoy!


----------



## CarbonArc

IM BIDDING ON THIS ONE


----------



## ShortArc

Connectors for the VSS-3 will run around $300, that does not include hookup for the aux control box. You will also become very good at soldering (23 wires per plug).

Good luck and cheers.


----------



## Phased_Array

carbonarc did you get it?

I watched it taken off auction, 
I was watching it too


----------



## tvodrd

Bump time.  I have a VSS-3A lined-up to pick up a week from tomorrow in San Louis Obispo- ~250 mile drive north. The tripod mount is sorta designed, awaiting the light to measure for the trunions and clearance for the mounting bolts inside. Bunch of machining to do this weekend! I followed up on the genset this week and ecycle says maybe next week- "issues" with the propane conversion. 

Larry


----------



## JonSidneyB

I am guessing you don't want to look into the beam of that thing.


----------



## idleprocess

Nope.

Good of you to ask first


----------



## CarbonArc

has everyoine forgotten about their searchlight?


----------



## milkyspit

I hope Larry hasn't incinerated himself! oo:


----------



## tvodrd

milkyspit said:


> I hope Larry hasn't incinerated himself! oo:



Thanks, Milky! (I think?) The searchlight gods seem to be conspiring against me. (Or is it the safety gods?) Weekend before last, I drove 470 miles round trip to pick up an AN/VSS-3A 1+KW light like Lotsalumens has. It's much more manageable (75#) than the 200# VSS-1, and _only_ pulls 58A max @ 28VDC. It can run on a couple marine deep-cycles which is a good option as the genset I ordered is now several weeks late and the bozo's won't commit to when they will ship. Uncle Sam rates both lights at 100,000,000 Cp, and warns not to lite them up with "friendlies" within over 300 yards! 

For the last week+ I have been busting my a** on a tripod alt-azmuth mount for it. I'll post pics in the next couple days. I got some bad news from Allied Electronics yesterday stating my connectors to complete the thing won't arrive until Apr 9, which pooches my trying it out at the annual Memorial Day campout at my shack out in the Mojave. 

Larry


----------



## JonSidneyB

When you get it working....I want to look into the beam and get a Spotlight tan


----------



## tvodrd

JonSidneyB said:


> When you get it working....I want to look into the beam and get a Spotlight tan



Uh Jon, good friend, here's a pic of one mounted to the "proper" PSU.






Note the stencil on the turret:





Do you see a warning re not looking down the main armament when it it is being fired??? One _could_ conclude the main 90mm gun is less dangerous than the searchlight! 

Larry


----------



## JonSidneyB

well, I still bet it is nice an warm on a cold day.


----------



## mcinfantry

im looking for a an/vss spotlight for my truck. ill need a couple of days to secure funding, but im not getting caught with my pants down again this year. 

last year i fliped a coin and put the convoy lights on my m35 truck instead of the fording kit the night before katrina hit........ ill try and get the fording kit on soon. heck i have a fc470 zodiac to put in the back of the truck this year.



i spent a little time last year running resupply to bogalusa,la PD where they were witout power for 2 months. anyone know ROUGHLY how long the light will run off the 24volt batteries in the deuce while its running? the alternator is 60amps. (i know the alt cant power it, but how long can the batteries run it?)

from what i gathered in the thread, the kits are complete, correct?


----------



## JimH

Put in a better alternator. Heck, I have a 190A alternator in my Jeep. I got it from Mechman.com


----------



## Phased_Array

I'm Planning on mounting my AN/VSS-3 on my Deuce too. I'm going to power the lamp off the nato style jumper/slave cable.


----------



## ShortArc

As a norm the VSS-1 or VSS-3 do not come with cable interconnects.
This means buying connectors, suitable cable and soldering them together.
The connector cost is about $70 on average (Amphenol), cable is not cheap either...
Willem.


----------



## tvodrd

Welcome to CPF, mcinfantry!! I got "driver's training" in one of those at Camp Lejune in 1968.  You might want to read this thread. Somewhere in it is a link to a military vehicle website thread on the searchlights. One tank guy said they had to add water to the batteries after running one for any length of time, even with the engine at hi idle.

Larry


----------



## mcinfantry

long. long time lurker. since the days of surefire and thier alternate design website.... gladius and such too.

i was a cop until march 30th this year (i resigned) and i carried the gladius since the day they were released. 

im a light nut. 

thanks for the welcome. i run optima red top batteries. i use to run yellow top batteries and run a www.readywelder.com off of them


----------



## tvodrd

Ran across an offer for control boxes in case someone wants a spare:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130001368448
I bought the replacement lamp posted way above from the guy. (I offered him $50 for a box.) (Edit: which he accepted.  and I suspect the response for the 9 he has left will be less than overwhelming, so anybody else try offering $25.  )

Larry


----------



## Ericsc

I know a number of people have put these together. If anyone is looking to sell theirs, I am looking for a functional an/vss-3a and the required power supply. I have a generator to run it - just looking for everything from the gennie out. 

Anyone interested in selling? If so, please drop me a lineat ericsc at gmail (dot) com.

Thanks!

-Eric


----------



## tvodrd

Edit: one of these days I will get to the eye doctor!

Larry


----------



## ShortArc

Ericsc,

As you are looking for an AN/VSS-3a, you may also want to post this on the 1kW Xenon Arc Tank Light thread: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/92396

Good luck,

Willem.


----------



## greenLED

You guys are a scary bunch'a geeks! :nana:


 (I want one too!)


----------



## Phased_Array

Ericsc,

Why have one when you can buy two at twice the price? :naughty: 
I'll have an extra AN/VSS3A lamp assm, but it will need the large control box and cabling. It's only 75 lbs vs the big guy.
Maybe in a month or two.

Phased Array


----------



## tvodrd

Phased, You have a spare lamp for the beggers? From where? Wanna sell it? The one in mine has 62 hours on it according to the hour meter. I can recut your light's connector ring to sort of fit. 

Larry


----------



## Orbit

to sorta fit at 1kW....your pretty keen


----------



## tvodrd

Prolly belongs in the -3A thread but the searchlight's connector mates with a "standard" Amphenol/mill circular connector _insert._ The threads on the searchlight's connector are a ******* thread. "Stock" Amphenol is 2"-18tpi, but the searchlight is ~2"-10tpi ACME. The ring isn't _functionally_-needed, but it is a nice touch to have it present. It's a mechanical issue, not electrical. 

Larry


----------



## CarbonArc

Well it is time for a big update. I have assembled my trailer/ turret assembly. Hopefully tonight i will have some good pics for everyone.


----------



## Orbit

AHHH...no dramas then larry...i should have actaully read your post more thouroughly.


----------



## CarbonArc

New Pictures in the searclight album, The trailer and turret need paint and some final mounting stuff done so please excuse the rough appearance.

http://community.webshots.com/user/carbonarc100


----------



## CarbonArc

i think everyone has forgotten about this thread more beamshots tonight


----------



## tvodrd

:wave: CarbonArc,

I have the power relay and cable sockets wired and mounted to the rear of my light and all that remains is to solder 7 leads to the control box's connector. (hopefully this weekend.) When that's done I will improvise my genset's connections along with the 2 deep cycles and test fire it. If it lights, I will continue with its mount which will be similar to the one I did for the VSS-3A.







Larry


----------



## Phased_Array

Larry,
From that last pic... look's like you have everything under control?


----------



## cy

what a project!


----------



## Tanker M60

Hello All,


Very interesting group of interested zeon lite guys. I used these lites foe a few years as a Tanker on M60's. The EARLY M48's used the "PINK LITE" as I recall. We often trained at lighting targets out beyond 3000 mtrs! The Control Box was in the Gunners position on his ( R ) side. The override for the TC-Commander was uo in the top of the turret.

Here is my latest restoration: Enjoy-Dave
MVPA 21178

PS: Saturn Surplus has the zeon lites as well as the Generator sets.


----------



## StanB

*New to the Board-Need help! AN/VSS 1*

Hello Guys! 
I just joined the board after finding you yesterday. I think I'm lucky to have found you. I've already read the whole thread on the AN/VSS 1(v)2 and am quite impressed with your collective knowledge. My reason for posting is that I just bought one of these beasts. I'm not quite sure why, just did. I'll bet that thought will be understood by this group, from what I've gleaned so far.
I know that I am being somewhat lazy, but I hope you can keep me from reinventing the wheel that many of you had to do to figure out the nuances of the wiring, power, etc.
I will take any and all input that I can get! Some questions that come to mind are: Where to get connectors from control head to intermediary? box(I'll have to build), the main light cable connector socket? what is the best power relay? where to get a cost effective generator? where to get a 110v/24v converter, if that idea would work in any case? ideas for constructing a mount? why did you remove the existing three point mount? Is there a place on the web to read/download a(or several) manuals? or, where to buy manuals?
Finally, I think that I have pieced together the following: The cable from the light has the main 24v power and several(6) control pins. The control box has only control pins. What is needed is aa intermediate box, which I will build that jouns the control pins from the control box to those of the light. Also, a heavy duty relay to switch the power source on/off to the heavy light cables. Am I even close to understanding the problem?
Any help to point me toward the best of these components would be super appreciated. Thanks, Stan


----------



## CarbonArc

Stan-


Read this post carefully from front to back and you will find much useful information i think many of your questions will be answered.


----------



## Sodium

Hello all, 

I've had an AN/VSS-1 for a few years and have tried off and on to get it running. 

Initially I used a 3.3k military genset but that unit was beyond repair. 
Currently I use an RTS city bus for power, it has a 300 amp 28vdc alternator (it's a huge, gear driven trash can). 

Needless to say I've reviewed this thread and all the attendant resources before posting this. 

I've been over the wiring harness about a zillion times, most recently to match the wiring indicated in this forum. The light does not light. The fan runs when power is connected. The filters move into position as commanded. Overdrive kicks in for the requisite 15 seconds (but no light from the important parts). I can hear the ignitor cycling every 3 seconds or so. In other words, most of the machine seems operable. 

On the converter board is a 10-amp breaker. This is consistently tripped any time we try to power the light up. This would seem to indicate some wiring issue or another. 

Does anyone have any specific advice for identifying the fault? 
If the converter is blown, how can I test that? 

While I've had the light for years and not had it fire yet it did arrive to me from Saturn Surplus in depot condition - absolutely immaculate. It's a bit dusty now from having been out in the Mojave a few times during various attempts to test fire it but the internals are immaculate. 

All advice is greatly appreciated.


----------



## ShortArc

Sodium,

Unfortunately it sounds like the igniter may be blown. This is what happened to me after incorrectly wiring the light. I am not saying that you did but someone else may have. If you lose power to Pin C while Pin A is powered the igniter will blow. 

I contacted Bob at Peakbeam Systems for a spare. Unfortunately they are too busy at the moment to pull one from one of their parts light. 

Good luck.


----------



## Sodium

Thanks for the reply. 

while I'm quite certain the light has been wired incorrectly in a number of ways (the original printed copy of the service manual has 3rd generation photocopies of the wiring diagram and had an interrupted circuit trace that looked like to traces to ground. drat.) 

That said, I would like to try to identify which components are toast. The breaker that's tripping is on the converter board. Presumably this is intended to save the component from wiring faults and I've also read here that this is a rebuildable component. 

Are there any quick test procedures that can identify fault conditions in the converter and ignitor? 

How do I rule out a bulb failure? 

-Sodium


----------



## Sodium

Oh yeah, one other thing. With the blower running all the time I'm wondering about the thermal protection relays. Any experience with those are am I skipping a whole bunch of more obvious problems by trying to tackle those first? 

-Sodium


----------



## chinkaroo

Afer several months of hard consistant work, I got my an/vss1 to fire. Running down the proper parts and asking a lot of question of this fourm is what made it happen. The only problem I'm having now, is getting all the shutters to work. Tomarrow I'll try to work it out. My longest shot was about a mile and a half, which is nothing for this light. Good luck everybody on your project. Chinkaroo


----------



## Sodium

As far as the lens setup for the light goes I'll throw out the obvious: fuses. There's 3 fuses mounted on the upper lamp support near the drive motors - one for each lens (black out, IR, wide angle) motor. 

How can I check the lamp to determine if it is a problem? It's an arc lamp so it checking resistance or continuity is out of the question. Is there anything more than a visual inspection?


----------



## ShortArc

Sodium,

I was told that the igniter was the most common component to blow in the light. 

If the breaker of the converter assembly is tripping there may be more going on.

Because of the high amp draw (and voltages), I would not recommend metering anything in there unless you have test equipment to handle the loads. The bulb can be visually inspected. Sorry that I can not be of much more help. My game plan is to replace component by component or simply buy anther “parts” light and keep my fingers crossed.


----------



## Sodium

Thanks for the advice. 

I am lucky enough to be working with a licensed Master Electrician on this project. This gives me some flexibility in component level troubleshooting that might otherwise freak me out. The RF ac voltage stuff is pretty much what you would expect to see in a Tesla Coil. I've got another buddy who is assembling one of those one workbench over. So I've even got the gear on hand to check if the ignitor is working. Weird but true. I'll get through this stuff somehow! I SWEAR this light will eventually fire. 

Unfortunately the light doesn't really come with troubleshooting procedures and before I blunder around reinventing the wheel I figured I would pepper y'all with questions for a while and see what you learned about this thing and how to make it go. 

I am really surprised that the blower is always running. I would like to run that problem down as I suspect it may be related to the fault on the converter (relay) board that's tripping that little 10amp breaker. 

I'll be getting back to it on Thursday.


----------



## ShortArc

Sodium,
Just tell your Master Electrician to keep one hand in his pocket. 
If you have good diagnostic equipment it should not be too hard to find the problem(s). I do recall that my blower was always running as well and my converter relay appears to be fine? Maybe someone else with a working VSS-1 light could comment on this. Regards.


----------



## tonyd

There is a manual for this light with a trouble shoting section and schematics. Let me know if you do not have and I think I can forward.


----------



## Sodium

Please post a link to what you've got. Thanks.


----------



## tonyd

Send me your email address and I'll sent you the manuals in Adobe as attachments. I shudder to think how long it would take to send 6MB on the forums.

Thanks


----------



## Sodium

[email protected]

Thanks again!


----------



## Sodium

Okey dokey. 

We went over the components and diagrams in considerable detail. Handling that bulb is like handling a live grenade. It showed no real signs of wear and appeared to be intact so preliminarily I'm ruling that out as the failure. 

The 50 amp breaker appears to be self-resetting and showed continuity so that's out. The 10 amp has been reset and according to the diagram would protect from a short-to-ground if a transistor failed in the relay module. So I would like to find a relay panel and try swapping that first. 

Does anyone have a good, current source for parts? Does anyone have a spare relay module they would like to sell me?


----------



## StanB

Tonyd,
I have just aquired an AN/VSS 1(v)2, as noted above.I am completely new to this light. Please E-mail a copy of the manual, if you don't mind. I've looked, but cannot find one. Your help will be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Stan
[email protected]


----------



## IgNITEor

I just signed-on to this forum. Nice resource! I own a VSS-1 light and have the original TM11-5855-250-12&P manual. It does not cover pin-outs for the cable assemblies, but does have have other "Interesting" info for the operator.
I found a guy who has the GSS version and he email'd the cable pin-outs & diagrams if someone still needs them. 
This is a searchlight that can do some serious harm if not operated safely. I shall quote from page 3-3 : "CAUTION! Unless directed by the commanding officer, the overdrive mode is to be used only against the enemy....."
Oh yeah!
I have another light used recently for surveillance work featuring a 1200 Watt HMI, but that's another story.


----------



## Sodium

Manuals and wiring schematics are all linked to post #2 in this thread. 

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1312239&postcount=2


----------



## Sodium

BTW, I'm still looking for a Relay Module and/or parts source.


----------



## CarbonArc

Sodium what parts do you need? I have some lying around.


----------



## billhess

I have someone that has a an/vss-1 in the crate, never opened. Could someone ball park me on what it is worth, high and low guesses. NO it is not for sale we are just trying to figure out what it is worth.


----------



## lotsalumens

I think Saturn Surplus sells them for around $500. Some folks here have bought them from Peakbeam systems who apparently have a warehouse full of them. Can't remember the price they were offering them at, but a forum search might turn it up.

Charles


----------



## Sodium

I need a Relay Panel.


----------



## Sodium

I got mine for $500 from Saturn Surplus.


----------



## billhess

I just bought one from peakbeam in the box only opened to test it, with cables,control box,manual for 600$ Plus shipping which was 236$. I guess I had better start reading on the best way to power it. I have a portable generator, I guess I'll be looking for an inverter.


----------



## Sodium

I think you might be better off just buying a dedicated 28vdc 3kw genset. They're readily available and designed to power this light. Alternately you need something more like a welder than an inverter for a conventional generator to power one of these. You'll need a big coil and a set of really large diodes on a substantial heat sink.


----------



## billhess

Stupid questions coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

okay I have a generator with a 15 hp motor that puts out 7,500 watts with a 220/50amp outlet. your saying it would be cheaper/better just to buy a whole new generator that puts out 28vdc. where do You suggest I get it, Got any good sources. Once I get my light from peak beams what else will i need? will the light plug directly into the generator? Quite frankly I have seen a few of the gov gensets and they don't look half as nice as my electric start generator. I think I like the modular rectifier route. Any one know whwere i can find one? I'm planning on building a trainler with my generator and the rectifier and light. This way I can just take my generator off for use on other things.


----------



## Sodium

The 3.3k I purchased was electric start as well. 

Root around a little. I just checked ebay and there's a generator head 28vdc/220amp for $500. A couple of weeks ago I was pricing them out and found a LOT of them for sale, dozens, for a couple of hundred bucks. 

The generator does not have a connector for the wiring harness, just a couple of huge copper lugs, so some minor adaptations would be needed to get it all hooked up. 

With a big 7k genset you'll most likely need a welder or similar to convert it to 28V DC. I mean, you're talking about stepping the voltage down considerably, very high current draw and DC. So you'll need yo have a BIG coil to handle the power, a BIG set of diodes and probably some capacitors to stabilize the output into some semi-respectable DC waveform. 

Saturn's got 'em for too much money but if you're already looking at 400 bucks to refit your genset then maybe not. 

http://www.saturnsurplus.com/used/used.htm

If you're going through all the gyration and expense then you're, IMO best served by a unit that comes complete.


----------



## billhess

would something like this work


http://www.groban.com/generator-1a.html

From what I am told the above generator requires 12hp at full load. Any guess on wether that would power the light directly or would have to have a bank of batteries.

Also wouldn't 4 6v batteries be better than 2 12volt?

or why not a 28v alternator that has 100 amp output, driven by an 220v electric motor plugged into my generator. with a bank of 6v batteries

I sure do appreciate all the help here, I'm just trying to get a road map set before I start building. I am really trying to avoid another generator especially an old government one. I have 3 generators allready and would love to use one of them when I need it. Of course mine are all AC current.


----------



## Sodium

All those options look like they would work. 

I would definitely be concerned with conversion loses and motor output. 1hp = 746 watts. You need about 3 kw ~output~ which means you need probably 3.5 kw input just to get 100 amps.

So that means you'll need a 5hp electric motor to drive that thing - pretty large electric motor. 

It sounds like your genset would drive it though. Maybe you could find a way to attach both generator heads to your genset and save all the conversion stuff. 

BTW,

My Generator was from Groban and arrived non-op with water in the crankcase. They were pretty good about it but it was a pretty frustrating situation. Definitely check with them as to the state of the equipment, unless you can just show up and look it over yourself, and definitely clarify with them the terms of sale should the device arrive DOA.


----------



## Sodium

One last try...

Does anyone have or know where I can get a Relay Board for the light?


----------



## billhess

Okay here's a power question. I'm think I'm going to use 4 6v deep cycle batteries with an alternator driven by an electic motor plugged into my generator. would a 60 amp alternator work okay? or do I need a 100 amp? How big of a HP motor to drive each? Thanks for your help


----------



## CarbonArc

sodium i have a relay board.


----------



## Sodium

CarbonArc said:


> sodium i have a relay board.


 
Great news. Email me directly and we'll figure out terms. Thanks! 

[email protected]


----------



## Sodium

billhess said:


> would a 60 amp alternator work okay?


 
Nope. You'll need a minimum of 100 and really you should just assume that your alternator is putting out less than that so plan on a 10% margin for your power needs. 

Backing it with a big battery bank like that would allow you to run it entirely from batteries though.


----------



## ShortArc

Remember overdrive with draw 140amps.


----------



## billhess

Sodium said:


> Nope. You'll need a minimum of 100 and really you should just assume that your alternator is putting out less than that so plan on a 10% margin for your power needs.
> 
> Backing it with a big battery bank like that would allow you to run it entirely from batteries though.


 
I think I have a direction. I was given a 100 amp catapiller alternator. It's a 1,200 dollar piece. it puts out 90amps min and 107 max. I really nice piece. With 4 6v batts and this thing running I should be able to run for ever. overdrive won't be used much, so it should be fine. I am thinking I could run for an hour or so without even starting the alternator. next thing I am worried about is when the connectors get here figuring out which pin goes where. Oh well on thing at a time.


----------



## billhess

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*



ShortArc said:


> Connectors: I thought I mentioned it before but www.newark.com or www.powell.com are two sources.
> IR: I heard the lights being called “Pink Eye” and the troops were not all that happy about it either!
> 
> Larry, love those pics…just don’t turn them against each other…that could be trouble or melt down!


Both places say a lead time of several months for the main cable connector MS3100E32-15S. Anyone got any ides on how to get one faster?


----------



## tvodrd

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*



billhess said:


> Both places say a lead time of several months for the main cable connector MS3100E32-15S. Anyone got any ides on how to get one faster?



Try ECCO (Electronic Connectors Corp.) in Chicagoland. Their mark-up is way above Allied, but they stock a lot of them. Good Luck!

Larry


----------



## billhess

Stupid question coming:

I'm going to have 4 6volt batteries hooked up in series. I would like to be able to monitor what their level of charge is. will this do it? Any better ideas?



http://cgi.ebay.com/24VOLT-PANEL-METER-BATTERY-CHARGE-CAPACITY-INDICATOR_W0QQitemZ190044394094QQihZ009QQcategoryZ41981QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## WJM

Hello dear Luminado's & Illuminati!....)

One of these lovely AN/VSS-1's would have been in my posession already, had there not been this pesky shipping 'problem' (like me living in Europe....)[*].
However, I recently did solve the intra-continental transport problem for a similar, European, Xenon searchlight, the XSW/AEG/Leopard-1, 700W, 80kg, refurbished/sealed/plombed....but even though that one isn't running yet, trying to gather almost the same stuff as you do in the USA (cable & power supply), it did inspire my renewed interest in the AN/VSS.
(in the offroad community (some of you here might have seen my name on one or more related USA mailinglists), we call it MIBS, More Is Better Syndrome....)

First question, posed in this thread before (but not answered), about the tri-point bracket/pedestal that is shown in the manual (first of two URL's early in this thread, first or second page)):

https://www.logsa.army.mil/etms/dat...689f89eb8-E4DAEECC-CE85-D0A8-CE4E8FAFE5C19661

Is my assumption correct that this complete assembly (light+pedestal) is described with the codes AN/GSS-14(V)1 & AN/GSS-14(V)2 ?
(in my PDF-reader, I could not see all pictures, probably only the graphic drawings, not the grey-scale photo's, like those with capture/title 'mounted on jeep')

Or, more practical: why do these pedestals not show up on the surplus market, even if dismantled separately (mounted to vehicle, light removed)....or does that application ('jeep' & 'tower') not generate any surplus equipment currently, being still in use, unlike the tank/turret fix-mounted units?


[*] despite the offer from a friend in the USA to use his FedEx-account for 75% discount....Saturn just wasn't helpful in setting up a single/straight shipping transaction.
(however, noticing that PeakBeam also seems to stock these units, I am curious to hear what their price is....anyone bought one recently?)


PS: if anyone spots another Ebay add with a switched power supply of 28V & 150A or larger, please let me know!
(the 25lbs of the HC-Power unit would still work for postal shipping, and at US$299-399 it was a very good deal, haven't found anything like that in Europe)

PPS: the XSW/AEG/Leopard unit has one nice aspect for automotive use: it has two metal doors in front of the lens, remote operated, for ultimate protection (there is another, much lighter unit that also has these protective doors, but it is older, with 150 Halogen, the BSW (perhaps interesting to modify with 50 or 75W Xenon....).
(I guess these doors were also or even mainly intended for instant shut-off/black-out, just like the shutter in the AN/VSS, since the XSW doesn't have an internal shutter for that purpose, only IR-filter and spot/wide (but I still haven't found out the data for the wide-beam (spot is supposedly 1.2 degrees, and somewhere on the Net they mention a factor 1.8 for wide, but also 'line' vs 'spot', suggesting a much wider beam))


Willem-Jan Markerink, The Netherlands, Europe....)


----------



## billhess

i bought one from peak beam systems 3 weeks ago fopr 600$ I spoke with them yesterday they still have over 50 of them.


----------



## WJM

Btw, at the risk of posing a FAQ: I know the weight of the crated unit, but what are the exact dimensions of the crate?
(needed for my shipping-cost estimate)
Thanx!

Willem (wondering whether the crate might apply for check-in luggage too) Jan


----------



## billhess

37 x 37 x 30 inches. You are making this to hard. call peakbeam systems and they will ship it and charge you only the exact shipping cost.


----------



## ShortArc

This is what I could find in the Manual:

The AN/VSS-1(V) original packaging dimensions are: 35.5”Wx35.5”Dx25.75”H weight was not given but I am guessing 370lbs

The AN/GSS-14(V) with MT-3900A/GSS-14(V) (universal mount), 32”Wx28”Dx39”H, weight 490lbs.


----------



## WJM

billhess said:


> 37 x 37 x 30 inches. You are making this to hard. call peakbeam systems and they will ship it and charge you only the exact shipping cost.



I know they can ship, but I want to have it shipped on the FedEx-account of a friend in the USA, using his 75% employee-discount....)

Willem (please keep in mind that I am Dutch!....) Jan


----------



## WJM

ShortArc said:


> This is what I could find in the Manual:
> 
> The AN/VSS-1(V) original packaging dimensions are: 35.5”Wx35.5”Dx25.75”H weight was not given but I am guessing 370lbs
> 
> The AN/GSS-14(V) with MT-3900A/GSS-14(V) (universal mount), 32”Wx28”Dx39”H, weight 490lbs.



Btw, that was one of the questions in my original posting: has this AN/GSS-14(V)1/2 (light+pedestal) ever shown up on the surplus market?
(I vaguely recall that the light-housing is different, so finding the pedestal-only would still not result in a bolt-in constellation, correct?)


----------



## ShortArc

WJM,
The AN/GSS-14(V)1/2 (light+pedestal) shows up from time to time. You are correct the light housing is different and has different mounting points.
The AN/VSS-1 is much more common. Peakbeam did a buyback from the Israeli army. Willem.


----------



## billhess

I personally am not sure how much the mount would be worth. It would probably cost more to ship than it's value.I had a local welding shop build me one for 35$. I actually had them build 2 different mounts and one is quite elaborate and it was 70$.


----------



## WJM

billhess said:


> I personally am not sure how much the mount would be worth. It would probably cost more to ship than it's value.I had a local welding shop build me one for 35$. I actually had them build 2 different mounts and one is quite elaborate and it was 70$.



But didn't the mount also have (2) geared positioning controls/wheels?
Or were these just tightening knobs?
Geared control would make it quite valuable in my opinion.
(enough to even start modifying the housing of an AN/VSS-1)


----------



## ShortArc

WJM,
Oh yea, that mount is nice!!!
You have complete control over azimuth and elevation by hand wheels on the yoke. The azimuth and elevation scales can be illuminated by the scale illumination switch on the pedestal. The cable harness is routed to the control box through the mount allowing the input power cable to be connected to the pedestal.
All in all I would estimate a +$2K to build something like that from scratch. If you can find this light/mount combination it would be well worth the shipping cost!
Groeten, Willem.


----------



## WJM

ShortArc said:


> WJM,
> Oh yea, that mount is nice!!!
> You have complete control over azimuth and elevation by hand wheels on the yoke. The azimuth and elevation scales can be illuminated by the scale illumination switch on the pedestal.




Way cool, must have!....)



> The cable harness is routed to the control box through the mount allowing the input power cable to be connected to the pedestal.





> All in all I would estimate a +$2K to build something like that from scratch. If you can find this light/mount combination it would be well worth the shipping cost!
> 
> 
> 
> Groeten, Willem.


:wave:
:grouphug:



Btw, while browsing some marine-equipment catalogs (recently visited Hanseboot/Hamburg by coincident, and METS/Amsterdam on purpose), I also saw an interesting 'actuator' for remote operation of elevation/tilt of the AN/VSS-1: a spindle-motor-contraption, mounted on/in/around a rod (spindle), used to open/close large hatches....up to 500lbs/230kg push, 35% pull, available in various lengths, with 25-75% expansion (depending on closed length).
(if not for positioning the light itself, it could still be used to open/close some protective doors in front of the light, when mounted on top of a fast vehicle....)

Btw2: I guess one must use batteries between any auxiliary power source (whether generator or grid), because the start-up/ignition current is probably huge, correct?
(I noticed this problem with a 12v/35W Xenon searchlight, powered by a 230v -> 12v/10A transformator....seems the ignition phase requires up to 7-10x more current than the nominal 3A....and that is probably also the parameter needed to calculate the needed cable diameter/gauge, right?)
(the only good thing is that at 150A overboost, the light is already ignited from the normal 100A stage....)
(but 10x 100A is still a bit cruel for wiring and switches (I did investigate those too on the marine exhibitions....)
(even found bi-stable uni/bi-polar remote switches with manual override, 350/2500A, for 250 euro)

(related note in the Hella marine catalog, that one should avoid to ignite multiple Xenon work-light units simultaneously....)
(the largest marine searchlight I saw was on the METS, from DHR (DeHaanRotterdam), with 1600W Xenon, variable focus (3-8 degree)....didn't even dare to ask for a price....)


PS: what must I change in my configuration to receive email-alerts?
I did subscribe to this thread, and did select 'immediate notification', but haven't seen any email-alert, should have had almost half a dozen by now.
(or does it make a difference whether I click on the first/top-most button 'Submit Reply', instead of the bottom-most button (below the thread subscription options fold-down menu)


----------



## ShortArc

WJM,
My 150 amp rectifier (switching power supply for cell phone towers) displays current draw (don’t know how accurately?) and the VSS-1 showed no significant increase in current draw during startup (the one time it started up before I blew the igniter module). So a battery “buffer” will not be necessary. I also use the rectifier with my VSS-3 and here too no “current rush” is indicated.


----------



## London Lad

Is the display fast enough to show the start-up draw ?


----------



## lotsalumens

I have seen the AN/GSS-14(V)1/2 (light+pedestal) combo show up on ebay from time to time. I think at least two or three came up this year and there were not many bids.

Charles


----------



## ShortArc

London Lad,
Not sure how fast it is exactly. There could be a startup spike which does not register on the display but certainly no flickering of the lights…
Unfortunately I do not have a high current probe or I would scope it for comparison.


----------



## WJM

ShortArc said:


> WJM,
> My 150 amp rectifier (switching power supply for cell phone towers) displays current draw (don’t know how accurately?) and the VSS-1 showed no significant increase in current draw during startup (the one time it started up before I blew the igniter module). So a battery “buffer” will not be necessary. I also use the rectifier with my VSS-3 and here too no “current rush” is indicated.



I don't want to act like a pessimist, and I did read about the most likely cause in earlier messages, but could it perhaps be that the ignition module blows because there is a huge voltage dip?
(haven't seen such warnings thusfar in any document/literature, and similar documents do state that the slower it starts, the better for life-expectancy, so maybe it goes completely the other way....)

I just tried to start my 12v/35W Xenon searchlight with a 13.8v/4-6A power supply, and it simply refuses....only a 12v/10A unit does the trick, but even that one only after several attempts (and I can't help wondering how bad that is for lamp or electronics....).

Willem 
(I do wonder about the additional automotive risk with a partly run down battery, when there is not enough power left to ignite the lamp....a halogen lamp would still give *some* light) 
Jan


----------



## ShortArc

WJM,
My igniter blew because power was lost to PIN C while still providing power to PIN A.
If it makes you feel “safer” throw in a couple of deep cycles or even better AGMs.
With regards to your 13.8v/4-6A power supply not being able to ignite a 35W Xenon HID, could be lost of reasons. I am sure some one more qualified than I could rattle off a list…


----------



## WJM

ShortArc said:


> WJM,
> My igniter blew because power was lost to PIN C while still providing power to PIN A.
> If it makes you feel “safer” throw in a couple of deep cycles or even better AGMs.
> With regards to your 13.8v/4-6A power supply not being able to ignite a 35W Xenon HID, could be lost of reasons. I am sure some one more qualified than I could rattle off a list…



Forgot to mention that even Hella warns for this ignition surge, stating that their 12v/35W units require a 20A fuse, and that one should not switch on multiple Xenon lights together (or at least not have them on the same single circuit/switch).
Perhaps the AN/VSS uses some kind of energy-storage system?
(huge elco's?)

Willem (wondering if one could add that easily to any igniter) Jan


----------



## billhess

Okay I have all the physical mounts and trailer built, now a another question. What would bee the difference between 2 12 volt deep cycle batteries and 4 6 volt on running times before firing up the generator? Any one have any pros or cons on the difference? I'm thinking if 4 6's would get me 45 minutes of running it would probably cover most of my short playing sessions. Any help would be apprecieated.


----------



## Aristo

you might want to try bus batteries, they sell them at NAPA, and should know what you are talking about (any decent parts man/lady will know at least). They are pretty ruggid batteries, tons of heavy equipment use them also. 

I'm not sure what's best otherwise, 4 6volt or 2 12 volt.


----------



## billhess

It works!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Got it running tonight.


----------



## tvodrd

billhess said:


> It works!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Got it running tonight.



Congrats, Bill! :thumbsup:

Now you know the meaning of major warm and fuzzy! 

Larry


----------



## Aristo

what did you end up doing for power?


----------



## ShortArc

Excellent Bill!!! Congrats.
Willem.


----------



## billhess

Aristo said:


> what did you end up doing for power?


 

I have a 220 volt 5 hp motor running a 110 amp 24 volt alternator hooked to 4 12 volt batteries (2 in series, then the pairs in parallel). I run the motor to charge the batteries which will last about 50 mins. I also can just plug the motor in the wall to caherge them. I built a metal pallet that fits in the back of a pickup truck which it all sets on. painted it all OD green.


----------



## Aristo

HAHAHA man that's great!
I wonder if they would look at you crazy at a boarder crossing with that set up in the truck hehe.


----------



## billhess

how about my first try at pohot's:

http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/910/pict0001tf1.jpg



http://img238.imageshack.us/img238/1396/pict0002ke4.jpg


----------



## ddaadd

billhess,

Very nicely done indeed! :goodjob:


I have that same generator, for home back up.

Those tank lights are just incredible!.........

Beamshots yet?


----------



## Stillphoto

Wow, and I thought rigging together 10 9-volt batteries was dangerous...lol although your rig looks much safer than my titanium coloring equipment.


----------



## lotsalumens

Wow really nice work on that rig! Congratulations!


Charles


----------



## frogs3

*Re: AN/VSS-1 Searchlight Pictures*

Dear billhess,

Those pictures are incredible! My wife already said no way, but that setup is just too beautiful. I NEED this, thanks to you.

Maybe you will summarize the final parts list, please?

Enjoy,

Harvey K.


----------



## billhess

*Re: AN/VSS-1 Searchlight Pictures*



frogs3 said:


> Dear billhess,
> 
> Those pictures are incredible! My wife already said no way, but that setup is just too beautiful. I NEED this, thanks to you.
> 
> Maybe you will summarize the final parts list, please?
> 
> Enjoy,
> 
> Harvey K.


 

yes i will, I'm on vacation until mid jan.


----------



## billhess

here's a question, what will happen if I run my light until the batteries are dead/low. will the light just quit or fade? Will it damage it?


----------



## billhess

Help I went to turn it on and no light. only a clicking noise coming from the back. everything else works just no light????????????


----------



## 65535

Batteries will be damaged but I don't think undervolting the light is a good idea. Abotu yoru light not working. The clicking is probably the starter firing but no light coming on crack it open check internal connectors and check all conectors and check you power input for 28 volts.


----------



## billhess

65535 said:


> Batteries will be damaged but I don't think undervolting the light is a good idea. Abotu yoru light not working. The clicking is probably the starter firing but no light coming on crack it open check internal connectors and check all conectors and check you power input for 28 volts.


 

checked all connectors they are fine, I am getting 28v into the light. Any other ideas? I can hear what I am guessing is the starter clicking about every 8 seconds. All the filters and fans and EVERYTHING else work as normal. I find it hard to believe the bulb could be bad. How do I check it/remove it? FYI my fan shuts off as soon as I shut the light off. I talked to another person with this light and he said his does this also unless he runs it a long time then the fan will continue to run after the light is off. I have only run it for 15 mins max and allway when it was 30 degrees out and I would feel the air coming out of the fan it it was never hot, just mildly warm. so I just figure it was cool enought to not need the fan after shutdown. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## billhess

okay took it apart and the bottom of the bulb where it makes contack was really gummed up like a battery terminal. cleaned it and put it back in. then noticed a 10 amp push to reset button on the "converter for searchlight" and it has tripped. I reset it and the light comes on but flickers like a cheap mercury security light until it flips the 10 am breaker. have repeated this twice and the bulb doesn't seem to power on instantly like it did before it just flickers and then trips the breaker? Any ideas????


----------



## billhess

Okay played with it some more took the bulb out and cleaned corrosion again and when i put it back in and tried it it flickered a little and then fired. it now works but my guess is a weak ignitor? any ideas?


----------



## ShortArc

Here is another one on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170069645775&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1 

billhess: I think you more than likely found the problem (corrosion/conduction). I think the igniter is either go or no go.


----------



## billhess

ShortArc said:


> Here is another one on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170069645775&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1
> 
> billhess: I think you more than likely found the problem (corrosion/conduction). I think the igniter is either go or no go.


 

Why is that light in a bigger box amd called a mutt?


----------



## BVH

Bill, I think they might be saying this light, the GSS model, with this mounting kit is ready to mount on a military vehicle called a mutt (maybe a jeep type of vehicle or larger truck?) as opposed to the VSS being ready to mount on a tank.


----------



## WJM

ShortArc said:


> Here is another one on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170069645775&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1



Ah, seems Charles was right....not many bids....)

Willem (not sure if this is what Charles meant to imply though, as auction-result....) Jan


----------



## tvodrd

I got home ~midnight from The SHOT Show in Orlando and should be beyond jet-lagged! I met Robert Kleinhans(sp=close?) He said Peak Beam Systems still has a bunch of the VSS-1 lights. They ask ~$600 for them, and "shipping" can be a little rude from PA to CA! I've got mine, and have already hack-sawed-off the "handles," and faced-off the bosses to add 1.75" trunion pins. Mine appears to have been a well-used light, but it does _light!_ ;D

Larry


----------



## ShortArc

Tvodrd,
This one on ebay (a little pricey) is the GSS-14 with the pedestal mount! They are really nice units and alot heavier


----------



## IgNITEor

BVH said:


> Bill, I think they might be saying this light, the GSS model, with this mounting kit is ready to mount on a military vehicle called a mutt (maybe a jeep type of vehicle or larger truck?) as opposed to the VSS being ready to mount on a tank.




Still a little green with posting's on CPF. I recall the following image when I was sizing-up a shop made yoke for my VSS. This is the true MUTT version as we know it today. Hope the one that sold recently on eBay went to a loving home & capable hands! Apparently, the M-151 style Jeep rigged for heavy radio use had the larger alternator and was perfect for the AN/GSS-14.








Enjoy! And thank you for the welcome mat, Ra, et al.


----------



## tvodrd

Welcome to CPF, IgNITEor!

Larry


----------



## UncleCharliesAttic

Hi:

I have an extra New In The Box Control Box that I would sell. What state are you in? Tom

[email protected]


----------



## frogs3

Dear IgNITEor,

That picture of the Jeep is orgasmic. My wife absolutely forbids me to get a jeep and mount that light. Seems a shame to ruin over 23 years of marriage, but the setup is perfect. Now to figure where to USE IT??

-HAK


----------



## lotsalumens

Tailgaters beware!


----------



## Dark Star Lighting

Greetings all,

I am new here but not new to searchlights. We have been running the vss 1's for some 15 years now and have been down these posted roads a long time ago. We run them with CV (tig) welders with and without engines. We have found this to be the best and chepest way, The key is C Voltage NOT C amprage, and the unit must be rated for 100% d Cycle. We have a 225 amp welder that will run 2 at the same time and a 450 that will run 4. 

We have also converted the MT-3900A yoke with a commutator and motor so it spins 360 non stop. If people are interested I can post some photos, as well the commutator was a special order, but the code will alow for an instant re order, or so I hope It has been a good 10 years.

As well a word of *****caution** these lamps can be Extremely explosive. They must be handeled with full protevtive gear. *

*As well the light MUST be allowed to cool. simply killing power could cause the lamp to explode. I have seen a unit with the front glass shattered! *

Any way, we also have a great number of parts for the Navy 24" GE carbon arcs. some of the stuff is now posted on ebay. Any interest here I will sell direct. 

As well If any one is interested in the vss1 let me know I can most likely get you one or two or more.

We are a lighting and production company located in Vermont. Who also carries the Phoebus line of arc and LED flash lights.

Hope this info helps,


----------



## Dark Star Lighting

Greetings all,

I am new here but not new to searchlights. We have been running the vss 1's for some 15 years now and have been down these posted roads a long time ago. We run them with CV (tig) welders with and without engines. We have found this to be the best and chepest way, The key is C Voltage NOT C amprage, and the unit must be rated for 100% d Cycle. We have a 225 amp welder that will run 2 at the same time and a 450 that will run 4. 

We have also converted the MT-3900A yoke with a commutator and motor so it spins 360 non stop. If people are interested I can post some photos, as well the commutator was a special order, but the code will alow for an instant re order, or so I hope It has been a good 10 years.

As well a word of *****caution** these lamps can be Extremely explosive. They must be handeled with full protevtive gear. *

*As well the light MUST be allowed to cool. simply killing power could cause the lamp to explode. I have seen a unit with the front glass shattered! *

Any way, we also have a great number of parts for the Navy 24" GE carbon arcs. some of the stuff is now posted on ebay. Any interest here I will sell direct. 

As well If any one is interested in the vss1 let me know I can most likely get you one or two or more.

We are a lighting and production company located in Vermont. Who also carries the Phoebus line of arc and LED flash lights.

Hope this info helps,


----------



## tvodrd

Welcome, Dark Star!!!! I have one, and lit it successfully a month or so ago. I also have two of the VSS-3A lights which superceeded it, with a couple more coming for spare parts. I have a spare, new lamp and control box I bought from a guy in Israel off ebay. I have wondered what the potential consequences of a lamp burst would be, and your post has terrified me a little further as to pulling the "overdrive" knob!

As to LED flashlights, be sure to read for a while before posting! :green:

Welcome, again!

Larry


----------



## Dark Star Lighting

Thanks for the welcome!

The over drive just givs the lamp more voltage thus about 40 more amps to boot. You can run these down to about 24volts and draw less amps. This is the reason if you use a power supply that gives constant amparage the unit will just draw till you let the smoke out! The 1k vss 3 does have a different mirror design. A design that modern search lights use.

Reading on regarding LED lights. There are quite a few out there, the phoebus units are mill spec, check them out. www.phoebus.com

Thanks again.


----------



## lotsalumens

Welcome Dark Star!

For anyone interested in xenon arc bulbs and some of their hazards there is an interesting site about it. I posted this a year or two ago someplace, but here it is again:

http://members.misty.com/don/shortarc.html

Charles


----------



## Dark Star Lighting

Good info!

Thanks!


----------



## IgNITEor

This has turned out to be one resourceful, hefty thread! 

I've looked through the posts with excellent shots of final assembly for CarbonArc & billhess's projects.






Can't find the clear beamshot's yet.

Did I miss a new set somewhere? Are they in the the VSS-3 thread?


----------



## CarbonArc

Anyone wanna buy my rig? I have no time for it and worse yet I need to make space in my garage.


----------



## BVH

Deleted.


----------



## BVH

Deleted


----------



## BVH

Was anyone successful in figuring out how to remove the "Tank" end, 8-pin cable connector from the large power/control cable without simply cutting it off? I really hate to destroy any of the original parts of these lights. I can remove the strain relief rear section by unscrewing it. Then it looks like the middle shell has two "flats" for a wrench. I tried carefully to unscrew this piece from the very front cylindrical shell but no luck. It must come further apart because there is no way to even get close to where the wires connect to the insert. The connection point is 1.5 to 2 inches down into the mid-shell. 

Or...was anyone successful in making an adapter to fit between this connector and the control box?


----------



## 65535

BVH I would bet that it's reverse threaded. If you posted some pics, I could probably make some decent assupmtions.


----------



## BVH

65535, I'll bring home a cam today and snap a shot or two. Thanks!

EDIT: Damn...forgot the camera! Tomorrow.


----------



## Tanker M60

18 April 07

Hello All,

I am looking for a NEW- Crated Depot Rebuild AN/VSS-1. The Blower motor in mine ist Kaput! 
Tanks Alot,
Dave Tanker M60

[email protected]


----------



## tvodrd

Welcome to CPF, Dave. Member billhess recently started to part one out and might have the motor to spare. Give him a PM.

Larry


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## guiri

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

So, where do you get one of these for $600 and do they work?

Thanks

George


----------



## tvodrd

George,

All of the info is in this Thread.

Mine lit on the first try, unlike others. All of the info is here, but will require some searching.

Larry


----------



## buickid

Holy McfreakingJesus, thats a bigbigbigbigbig light. >_< I'd like to have seen several tanks crawling around in the dark with those on! Perhaps if you focused it just right you could set some of the enemy's gear on fire.


----------



## BVH

Well I finally finished enough assembly and wiring of my -1 to light it off! It lite on the first try but despite checking and re-checking and re-re-checking, I have an issue. I’ve wired it per the Peakbeam diagram. Here’s what happens:

Apply power to the system with control box switch in the “off” position. Red pilot light lights up. Nothing else happens. Move switch to “Standy”. Pilot light stays on. Ignition takes place and bulb lights but no output due to shield in the way. Fan runs. Move switch to “on” and shield moves out of the way and light functions normally including all flood and spot modes and Blackout. Move switch back to standby. Shield covers light – light stays on, fan continues to run, pilot light on. Move switch to “off”. Everything goes off including pilot light and fan. After about 20 -30 seconds, pilot light comes back on as I hear a relay close. The lamp should not be lite in “standby”, right?

I have not run it longer than about 45 seconds because I’m concerned about the fan not running after the bulb is turned off.

I also read Larry’s post about the pilot light is only supposed to come on in overdrive or overtemp. The “wiring error fix” has got to be staring me in the face but I don’t see it. For some reason, my main power solenoid is energized when the control box switch is in the standby position and I don’t think it should be.

Where have I errored?

bvh


----------



## tvodrd

I have four spare control boxes, if you'd like to try another. The schematic I posted earlier in the thread is gone due to an ISP change, but I can email it and the accompanying note page if you need it. 

Larry


----------



## BVH

Per your email, looks like mine IS functioning normally - except maybe for the pilot light. I'll post some pics tomorrow if I can get by work to get my camera.


----------



## BVH

Here's some pics. Prior to fabricating this rig, I had about 5 hours of welding experience about 25 years ago so no comments on the bubblegum welds. :nana: I bought the put-together trailer from Harbor Freight. I bought 3 extra cross members, placed 2 of them directly underneath the jack (for a total of 3) and put one under the batteries. All cross members are strengthened with a piece of 1/8" thick x 1 1/2" x 3/4" channel. I bought the telescoping cylinder tranny jack from Harbor freight and modified the tilting plate to accommodate the 240 lb capacity, very tiny electric linear actuator tilting system. The linear actuator is smaller than it looks in the pics. I was very lucky to find a piece of 1/2" wall thickness x 7 5/8" ID pipe into which the bottom of the jack nearly fit perfectly. I shimmed it with a piece of 1/16" sheet metal for a "press fit". The base plate is 1/2" steel plate. The light mounting bracket is also 1/2" steel plate with 3/16" square tubing risers onto which schedule 80 pipe was welded to wrap around the original light cross bars. I cut all the polished aluminum diamond plate control panel pieces and bolted them together using small "L" brackets. I was originally going to have someone weld it together but decided I wanted to assemble it myself. I designed is so that all the electrical hardware and wiring would be contained within it. Cutting the hole for the control box was time-intensive. Also on the control panel is a Xantrex battery monitor (which worked on initial power up but stopped working) and the lift cylinder momentary switch. The batteries are 110 AMPHOUR, AGM deep cycles. Total capacity is 220 AMPS @ 24 Volts. On freshly charged batteries, I ran the light for a total of about 9 minutes and after 1 hour of rest, all batteries measured 12.8x Volts so I'm thinking I'll get at least 50 - 60 minutes, maybe more of light down to 60% Depth of Discharge which will give me about 800 to 1000 charge cycles. When my light was test run before being shipped to me, it flickered a little then went out. When I got it, I very carefully removed the lamp, cleaned it (although I did not see any corrosion or dirt) and reinstalled it. It lite up perfectly the first time I powered it up. Maybe it just needed re-insertion. All my connectors are from Allied along with the 200 AMP, 28 Volt continuous duty solenoid. My on/off switch is a push-button manual, 150 AMP circuit breaker mounted just inside the hinged top of the control panel. I chose to make all my light control wire connections (original heavy light cable to the control box wires) through a fuse block for extra protection. The battery cable is from McMaster-Carr and is their Vutron welding cable product. It's 1 gauge, extremely flexible and has a strand count of 2,600 IIRC. I can make a 2 1/4" circle out of it. With the high strand count, it carries nearly double the amperage as their standard welding cable and way, way more than regular battery cable. 1 gauge Vutron = 4/0 regular welding cable and will carry 200 AMPS with a circuit length of 150 feet. Figuring out the balance of the trailer turned out to require very little work. It just turned out right. It weighs about 1100 pounds and has about 100 lbs of tongue weight. A TAD light but there's no room left over to change the balance. I just got lucky. I might bolt some weight to the front to give me another 25 lbs. I had a tremendous amount of fun doing this and am a little sad it's all built. Now, onto modifying my Costco HID to 75 watts.


----------



## London Lad

Excellent neat job, well done!

:goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob:


----------



## ddaadd

Well done BVH !!

Is your setup overdrive capable?

Looks like you are using the trans jack to operate the light safely above eye level....+1

This thread could use some nice beamshots if you get the chance....


----------



## 65535

Hey BVH did you ever get the connector off? Looking at your pics I would say that there is a sleeve that you pull back to allow it to be unscrewed. The knurled piece looks to me to be a sleeve.


----------



## modamag

Bob that setup looks awesome. :twothumbs
It'll save your back from quite a bit of lifting. :nana:


----------



## BVH

65535, no never got the connector off. Ended up cutting the cables/wires. ddadd, yes, that was the main drive for the trans jack - so I could operate it well above eye level. Well also because it had very smooth tilt and swivel and capacity well above the weight of the light. My batteries will provide plenty of current for overdrive but I, like others, am not sure I want to invoke it and risk "blowing" something. I still need to fabricate some heavy duty metal struts in at least 3 directions for transporting the unit. Also need to modify and attach tongue and rear crossmember trailer jacks for positive support when unattached to the truck. With only 90 pounds of tongue weight, it wouldn't take much to tip it.


----------



## ShortArc

Great job Bob!!!
Now can you make a few more for all of us  . Just kidding!!!


----------



## BVH

When I retire - move on to the next phase of life in 13 months, I would actually enjoy building another one and doing these types of projects in general.


Found a new link to an online manual for the VSS-1. It's not very printer-friendly and you have to click a link for each individual page but at least the data is available.

.tpub.com/content/nightvisionandir/TM-11-5855-250-12-P/new_page_1.htm

(add http://www in front)

In the manual, it says the red pilot light should be on only when in overtemp alarm or during the overdrive sequence. It also says the fan should continue to run when the switch is in the "off" position anytime the light has been on for 3-4 minutes continuously (temp of 140F). So I have a problem with my control box, I think.


----------



## ShortArc

I will run my light tomorrow as I seem to remember my red light staying on as well. Will let you know.


----------



## BVH

Thanks Willem! Here's a copy of what I posted higher in the thread when I first fired up the light:

Apply power to the system with control box switch in the “off” position. Red pilot light lights up. Nothing else happens. Move switch to “Standy”. Pilot light stays on. Ignition takes place and bulb lights but no output due to shield in the way. Fan runs. Move switch to “on” and shield moves out of the way and light functions normally including all flood and spot modes and Blackout. Move switch back to standby. Shield covers light – light stays on, fan continues to run, pilot light on. Move switch to “off”. Everything goes off including pilot light and fan. After about 20 -30 seconds, pilot light comes back on as I hear a relay close. The lamp should not be lite in “standby”, right?


----------



## BVH

Does anyone have a wiring schemetic showing internal wiring inside the control box and light itself? I have the Peakbeam diagram showing the connection of the cable between the light and control box.


----------



## billhess

BVH said:


> When I retire - move on to the next phase of life in 13 months, I would actually enjoy building another one and doing these types of projects in general.
> 
> 
> Found a new link to an online manual for the VSS-1. It's not very printer-friendly and you have to click a link for each individual page but at least the data is available.
> 
> .tpub.com/content/nightvisionandir/TM-11-5855-250-12-P/new_page_1.htm
> 
> (add http://www in front)
> 
> In the manual, it says the red pilot light should be on only when in overtemp alarm or during the overdrive sequence. It also says the fan should continue to run when the switch is in the "off" position anytime the light has been on for 3-4 minutes continuously (temp of 140F). So I have a problem with my control box, I think.


 
maybe that's what that book says but I have run 4 different vss-1's this week and the fan does not stay on when I shut them down unless it has run a long( 45 mins) time. Over the past year I have fired up over ten and none of then do. I just went thru the other 9 control boxes I have and they all act the same way yours does.


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## tvodrd

Bob, I just dug out my copy of TM 11-5855-250-12&P Operator, and Organizational Maintenance Manual, and it contradicts itself! On page 1-12: "When the searchlight power switch is set from STANDBY to ON, power is applied to the ignition circuits, causing the xenon lamp to become lighted."

On page 1-14: "When the searchlight power switch is set to STANDBY or ON, 28 volts dc is applied to the convertor and ignitor assemblies........the lamp lights."

:shrug:

I can loan you the manual, and will try and burn a disc for the other with the troubleshooting trees that I have electronically.

Larry


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## billhess

just ran my light tonight it's 80 degrees here and the fan did not saty on when i ran it for 10 minuets but after 30 minutes it stayed on when shut light off. it is thermally controlled. when I ran the light in the wionter it would never stay on.


----------



## BVH

This is interesting. With all those different lights and control boxes you tried, pretty hard to believe they're all defective. And you haven't blown a lamp after shutdown. Hmmm. I wonder if they changed something during the overhauls and didn't update the manuals?

Maybe I'll experiment with a heat gun if I can find temp Sensor S7 to see if I can get my fan to come on without putting the switch in Standby. Billness, have you ID'd the thermal sensor?


----------



## ShortArc

Bob,
I just emailed you all the info I have on the VSS-1 including technical manual (TM 11-5855-250-12&P), wiring schematics (TM 11-5855-250-34LD), and a few pictures of a functioning controller board.
Willem.


----------



## BVH

Thank you very much, Willem!!


----------



## BVH

OK, did some basic investigation. I found S7, the thermal sensor responsible for turning on the fan whenever the temp inside the cooling manifold is about 140F. Take the front cover off, stand in front of the light and on the right hand side down inside the discharge air manifold, you'll see the red and yellow sensor wires. Two screws removes the sensor from the manifold but it will not fit through the hole.












With the control box switch in the off position and the light at ambient temperature, full battery voltage is measured on the red wire but nothing on the yellow - as it should be. Its just a simple "make n break sensor. I used a hot air gun to heat the sensor and for a very brief moment (before it blew my 20 amp fuse) the fan started to run - with the control box switch in the off position. So the circuitry is functioning properly according to the manual. I wonder if the sensor is out of calibration or maybe "sticky" from sitting all those years? Maybe the temp inside the manifold isn't reaching 140F after my 7-minute run but the manual sure is clear that it should be there after 3-4 minutes. Billhess's worked correctly but it took a 30 minute run at an ambient temp of 80 to do it. With heat gun removed, after a few minutes, I physically heard the sensor "open" - a little "twang" noise. Maybe I should cycle it a few times with the gun to free it up.

But why did the fuse blow? I would think the fan, running at 28 volts, would not normally draw 20 amps but I don't really know and am a little hesitant to try a 30 amp. 

I'm assuming the fan gets it power from a completely different source when the switch is in the standby position otherwise, my 20 amp fuse would have blown whenever I moved the switch to the standby position. So maybe my 20 amp fuse in wire "C" (feeds full-time battery voltage to pin C on the light) from the control box is not big enough.

Thoughts? (Can you tell I'm a little concerned about running my light again until this is resolved? If I run the light longer to ensure the sensor gets hot enough to activate and the sensor is not working right, then I risk an explosion)

This still does not solve the pilot light on issue when the control box switch is in the off position.

Sorry for rambling but I guess I'm thinking out loud to myself. But...I'm still having lots of fun!!


----------



## mattheww50

What kind of fuse do you have on the fan? Is it a standard?
try a slow blow. On a DC motor, the startup current is likely to be huge if it is series wound (a little more reasonable if it is a shunt wound). If you ohm out the motor, you are likely to find it is less than an ohm, so you can calculate the startup current as 28/DC resistance. On a standard fuse, the fuse may open before the motor is turning fast enough to bring down the current to the fuse limits. With a slow blow, you can draw 400% (80 amps) for a second or two before the fuse opens. Plans B is to use a circuit breaker. they also tend to tolerate substantial short term overloads pretty well.

If it is a shunt wound motor, make sure the shunt winding is connected, otherwise there will be no back EMF, and the fuse will burn up (or the motor will burn up) no matter what size you use.

Also there is probably a nameplate on the fan motor. See what it says about current draw.

My suggestions anyway (I am an Electrical Engineer at least by Education).

Once the fan starts to turn, the back EMF will drop the run current to something reasonable.


----------



## BVH

Thanks Mattheww50. It's just a standard automotive double spade fuse. Unfortunately, the fan is very well buried and no chance of seeing any tag unless I disassemble the light. I think you're saying by your formula, that the fan could be drawing 28 or so Amps? I'm guessing that when installed on the tank, there is no "extra" fuse in-line like I have installed and that I may have introduced my own problem. I'm not brave enough yet to try a bigger fuse. Maybe I'll find a slo-blow or breaker and try that as you suggest. Thanks!


----------



## billhess

I'm quite sure you're over thinking this. I run my lights 3 times a week and have only had the fan come on twice. I have had my light on over 200 times with no fan on after shutdown. It ran the other day because it was 84 degrees and the light ran for more than 30 minutes. Turn it on and have some fun.


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## lotsalumens

This thread needs some beamshots! Let's see these beasts in action!

Cheers,

Charles


----------



## billhess

FYI the fuses you are using are rated for 20 amps at 12 volts not 24. I personally would not be using a essentially 10amp fuse on the fan motor. you would constantly have to be watching it to see if it's blown. The system was not meant to have fuses in it. there are several in the light and the reset on the light(breaker) is a 20 amp at 24 volts.


----------



## BVH

I’m a happy camper now. Got it all figured out. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with my wiring, hardware and rig setup. I really should try simple things first before of getting carried away with technical details. The KISS principle strikes again! (OK, OK, I can hear Billhess muttering to himself...."that's what I said, that's what I said" :nana: )

Find pocket thermometer that’s been buried in tool box for two decades. Confirm it works. Stick it in the exhaust vent. Fire up light. Watch temp on thermometer dial. After 10 minutes on, thermo reads 122F. After 30 minutes on, it reads 127F. After 34 minutes, it reads 129F. Hmmmm, never reaches 140F. By this time the “Under load” battery voltage is 24.00 so I shut down the light by moving the switch to “Standby”. Fan stays running. Move switch to “Off” – Fan stays running – Hurray! Fan stays running taking exhaust temp from 129F down to 110F then it shuts off – Hurray! And wait….what do I see – or more accurately, what don’t I see?? The pilot light was on before I ignited the light but when I looked at it about a minute into its run, it was out and stayed out until the light had finished its 34 minute run and had been off for about 15 seconds or so, then it came back on. All is right with the world!

However, am glad I investigated this out and found the temp sensor and confirmed it worked before running the light over 5 or 6 minutes. The blowing fuse problem was as Billhess said, a 20 amp, 12 volt automotive fuse won’t take the startup current drawn by the fan. Before I did all the above, I installed a 32 Volt/10 Amp, slow blow fuse in the fan circuit. I heated the sensor with the heat gun until the fan came on with the switch in the “off” position. No blown fuse like last night! I probably don’t need it in there as Billhess says but I may upgrade it to a 15 Amp slow blow and leave it in there.

Just another technical detail that doesn’t mean much. I don’t know how much cooling air temperature is lost between the sensor and the exhaust vent but if the manual says the sensor should close around 140F, the I would guess there’s an approximate 13 or so degree drop based on my thermometer never getting past 127F at the exhaust port. So it seem like it closes at about 140 and opens at 120F, as measured at the sensor. The ambient temp was around 70F when I ran my test.

I'll try to do some beamshots this weekend.


----------



## tvodrd

:thumbsup: Bob! Good stuff for me to know when I get back to mine! Glad you got it sorted-out. 

There still awaits a shootout between the VSS-1 and VSS-3(A) that superceded it. You, shortarc and I are the only folks I am aware of with both lights. Maybe Mr. Ted Bear would like to moderate a SoCal shoot-out as you are in Burbank and me in Costa Mesa. Wish member Ra lived in the area.

We are underdriving these things, as they are rated 30V-In! The VSS3A has an air-cooled, ballast resistor mounted in the heat exchanger, and one of these days, after I finish six tripods, I'm gonna ohm it! 

Larry


----------



## BVH

Why doesn't someone make a good, deep cycle, 14 or 15 volt battery!!!! Darn-it! The fans are noisy enough. I didn't want to have to listen to a generator so I'll make do with 24 Volts. But as I'm thinking about it (and I'm not an electrical engineer) If we're running them at 24 Volts, doesn't an electrical law dictate that more amperage is drawn (as compared to if we supplied 28 volts) to bring us up to the 2.2KW consumption figure? If Voltage goes up, Amperage goes down and vice-versa? So we aren't really losing any brightness, are we? We're just drawing more Amps so we get less run time and more heat in the equipment? There I go again, getting technical.


----------



## billhess

Actually most batteries are 2.2 volts per cell, which , means that we are getting 26,4 volts out of two. Also most 24 volt generators put out 28 volts. Also these lights were designed to go on tanks that have a 24 volt system. My alternator actually puts out 29.2 volts and you can tell no difference when it is on or you are using the batteries.


----------



## BVH

Billhess, Thanks for the info on the difference between running on generator and batteries. I'd love to do a Mr. TB moderated shootout with our lights! All I have to do is fabricate some transport struts before it becomes truly mobile.


----------



## BVH

I made my own AutoCAD wiring schematic. If anyone needs a color hardcopy or the AutoCAD file, I can provide it. It shows all the necessary hardware and associated wiring that the Peakbeam schematic does not show. Note: wires that cross are not connected. I didn't take the time do make it that detailed. 







The splice box turned out to be my control panel but can certainly be anything you want to make it.


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## ShortArc

I would like a copy of the ACAD file. Thank you!


----------



## BVH

Sent a couple versions. With and without Xantrex Link 10 battery monitor.


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## tvodrd

Me too!

Awsome. BVH! (I'm buried in other tanklight details right now.) 

Larry


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## BVH

Larry, AutoCAD files on their way! (Or did you want the hardcopies?) Actually, I've scanned them as jpegs (about 1.2 MB high res each) so Photoshop or any viewer can access them. The terminal block stud in the schematic is either 3/8 or 7/16 and I think it was rated for 400 or more amps. I didn't ID it on the dwg.

If you make modifications during your install and send me some marked up As-Builts, I'll make the mods in ACAD and send them back.


----------



## BVH

Here's some beamshots but they're not very good because my cam will only expose for a max of 1 second and these are under-exposed. The brightness of the beam is much more intense than in the pics. I need to get a good cam with manual exposure and a tripod. (Not bad for 1-second, hand-held exposures, huh?)





Example of the split beam taken with cam sitting on top of and very front of the light.




Another example of the split beam.




The split from a distance.




Standing under the front of the light shooting out.




Taken a few feet to the side of the light.




Taken about 50 feet from the light.


----------



## ShortArc

Not bad indeed! :twothumbs


----------



## BVH

A little more comparison data. Ran the light last night for 20 minutes. Ambient temp was 58F. At the 20 minute mark, the exhaust port air temp was about 112F. My fan did not continue to run after I shut the switch off which I think is proper. If my guess is right about there being about 13F degrees difference between the exhaust air temp at the sensor and at the exhaust port, then the sensor never reached the "kick-in" temp of 140F.


----------



## rdh226

billhess said:


> FYI the fuses you are using are rated for 20 amps at 12 volts not 24. I personally would not be using a essentially 10amp fuse on the fan motor. you would constantly have to be watching it to see if it's blown. The system was not meant to have fuses in it. there are several in the light and the reset on the light(breaker) is a 20 amp at 24 volts.


Won't matter, I (current) is I, V doesn't matter (within reason). A fuse is just a soft
fixed-value resistor. Voltage drop (thus "power" == V*I) across the fuse (resistor) is solely
dependent on current flowing through the fuse (resistor), as power dissipated by the fuse 
rises, fuse warms up, eventually melts, opens circuit.

Circuit breakers are a different story...



billhess said:


> I'm quite sure you're over thinking this. I run my lights 3 times a week and have only had the fan come on twice. I have had my light on over 200 times with no fan on after shutdown. It ran the other day because it was 84 degrees and the light ran for more than 30 minutes. Turn it on and have some fun.



He he! Yeah. I betcha if you were to mount the light on, oh, say a tank, sitting in, oh, say
the Mojave desert in, say, August, at 2PM, I betcha the fan would tend to stay on with much
shorter runs...84 degrees is benign!

Damn, this is tempting...

-RDH


----------



## BVH

Oh, just jump in and get one! I enjoy this so much, I keep thinking I need a second VSS-1 - just because.


----------



## tvodrd

I caught the fuze amperage post too, rdh, but sometimes, around here, silence can be golden. :green:

The VSS-1 light is ~200#/~2kW and the VSS-3A's are ~75#/~1kW. My latter runs nicely on 2 deep-cycles in series, and is portable without having to trailer mount the sucker. I have a tripod mount in the works for the VSS-1, but transport in my pickup will be a PITA!

There are conflicting US Mil specs on the two light's outputs, and there are a few here who might eventually arrange a shootout.  I know the VSS-3A uses a forced-air-cooled resistor to limit arc currant to 60A or so. I suspect that we are underdriving the things @24VDC. (Like anybody would notice!  ) I'll be pulling one down in the next couple weeks and ohm it and post a pic. I recently aquired a 100A shunt/ammeter and will try and get V/A readings out in the desert over Memorial Day.

I'm finishing-up 6-sets of tripod/yoke parts for the VSS-3As for friends, and after that will get back on the VSS-1 mounts.

These things are eenteresting! 

Larry


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## BVH

This should be fun to get. Bought it off Ebay just now.

"Original issue, standard US Army Technical Manual, 1616 pages, size is 8 1/2" x 10 3/4", 3 hole punched, dated 8 March 1971. This is not a commercial copy or print but an original government print. Manual is titled - TM 11-6230-219-35P, DS, GS and Depot Maintenance Repair Parts and Special Tools List for SEARCHLIGHTS, Visible Light-Infrared AN/GSS-14, AN/GSS-14A, AN/GSS-14B, AN/GSS-18, AN/GSS-18A, AN/GSS-18B, AN/VSS-1, AN/VSS-1A, AN/VSS-1B, AN/VSS-1C, AN/VSS-1D, AN/VSS-1E and Searchlight Set, Infrared AN/VSS-2. This is a repair/maintenance parts manual only for 2.2 KW 23 Inch Xenon searchlights and does not include maintenance requirements or procedures. There is one copy only of this manual at this time. For shipping purposes this guy weights in at 8 pounds."


----------



## Troop#26

I know you guys already got them working and such but I stumbled across this... I dont know if you guys already knew about it... but here it is any way
wireing diagrams, matenance schedules and alike

All my best

Stephen


----------



## BVH

Thanks, Stephen. I've done lots of periodic online searching and have come across the info in your link plus some other stuff. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## BVH

Turns out the 

"TM 11-6230-219-35P, DS, GS and Depot Maintenance Repair Parts and Special Tools List for SEARCHLIGHTS, Visible Light-Infrared AN/GSS-14, AN/GSS-14A, AN/GSS-14B, AN/GSS-18, AN/GSS-18A, AN/GSS-18B, AN/VSS-1, AN/VSS-1A, AN/VSS-1B, AN/VSS-1C, AN/VSS-1D, AN/VSS-1E and Searchlight Set, Infrared AN/VSS-2."

is only a parts manual. I mis-read the title. There's no repair info in it. Oh well, I've got a ton of part numbers now. It's still nice to have it. I didn't realize there were AN/VSS-1 (B - E)'s in addition to the "no designation" and the "A's". Wonder where they're at?


----------



## ShortArc

Here is my quick and dirty VSS-1 mount. Nothing like the works of art some of you guys produced but at least I can move the thing now. If I only had a hydraulic lift gate on my pickup!


----------



## BVH

Its a great feeling to have it "mobile", isn't it Willem! You're workshop looks TOO neat and clean!


----------



## greenLED

ShortArc said:


>



Is it me or that's a bigger model than what's been showed before? At least it looks bigger than the pics I've seen of Larry's.


----------



## BVH

It's the same size as the rest of the VSS-1's but, I too, thought it looked bigger!
Willem, you're workshop looks TOO neat and clean!


----------



## ShortArc

BVH,
Actually that is spill over area (under the barn) from my “real” workshop, the garage…I am too embarrassed to show pics of that mess.
Cheers.



BVH said:


> Its a great feeling to have it "mobile", isn't it Willem! You're workshop looks TOO neat and clean!


----------



## BVH

Oh, come on! Give us a peek! Pleeeaaassssee?


----------



## tvodrd

greenLED said:


> Is it me or that's a bigger model than what's been showed before? At least it looks bigger than the pics I've seen of Larry's.



Greenster, There are two USGI tank searchlights showing up on ebay. This thread is on the AN/VSS_1 series from the '60s-'70s and ~2.2KW. The AN/VSS-3, 1KW series succeeded them in the '70-'80s. Me, BVH, and ShortArc have both, and we're all rushing to see who can be first with a shoot-out.  I'm in the middle of 6 tripod assemblies for fellow VSS-3A owners.

I've sawed the handles off my VSS-1 In preparation of bolting trunnion pins to it for an alt/azmuth, tripod mount. The suckers are ~200#, and a challenge to direct, not to mention, power, @150A @ 24/28VDC! (VS ~60A, 24/28VDC and ~70# for the VSS-3A lights.)

It's an interesting corner on CPF!

Larry


----------



## zanzare

HELP HELP I am with the Regional Military Museum in Houma, La. We have an AN/VSS-1(v) search light with a MT-3900/GSS-14V universal mount. The search light is mounted on a M416 trailer frame with the correct generator. We have everything together but can not get the searchlight to fire up and light. No one here has the expertise to work on the system. Is there anybody close by that could be hired to make the necessary repairs. We can deliver the search light. The unit is part of our displays.

Thanks
Zanzare


----------



## zanzare

HELP HELP I am with the Regional Military Museum in Houma, Louisiana. We have a AN/VSS-1(v) search light with a MT-3900/GSS-14V universal mount. It is installed on a M416 trailer frame with the correct generaton. We can not get the search light to fire up and light. No one here has the expertise to make repairs to the system. Is there anyone close by the could be hired to fix the unit. We can deliver the search light. The unit is one of our displays.

Thanks
Zanzare


----------



## BVH

Wish I was close but I'm in SoCal. What exactly happens when you flip the toggle switch to "standby"? The light should ignite (but not be visible behind the blackout shield) in this switch position and the cooling fan should come on. The blackout shield does not move out of the way until you move the switch to the "on" position.

There's a push button circuit breaker behind the right-hand lower side of the reflector. ***DISCONNECT ALL POWER*** Take the front cover off and look behind the reflector for a black (I think) button marked "30" (I think, or maybe "20") and try pushing it in. Be double sure all power is disconnected before doing this. Don't expose any part of your body or any body else's for a 1,000 feet or so to the beam. My light would not light due to some "invisible" corrosion or other material on the bottom contact of the lamp. All I did was to take the lamp out -BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU DO THIS, WEAR PROTECTIVE GEAR - clean off both ends and re-insert it and it worked after that. It's not a hard job and doesn't require any unusual tools. The scary part is knowing that there is tremendous pressure - I think it's 66 atmospheres inside it. If you want to talk, give me a PM with your phone number.


----------



## zanzare

BVH Thanks for the reply. I have tried to find a way to send you an PM but this forum is not user friendly (not to me any way). Went to FAQ and was told to click on the E-MAIL button. That is great except I could not find that button any where on your reply.
When I said that no one here has any expertise I mean "NO" expertise. I have read a lot of replies on this thread and it does not take long to realize that everyone involved is pretty skilled in electronics and working with these lights. We had no idea when we bought this light for the Museum that we were getting in over our heads. We figured it was a great idea for events and parades. We would not even attempt to open the light up for a lot of reasons. If we can not find some body close by (southeast US) then I guess we are out of luck. I hate to turn the light into a static display. My phone number is 985-804-8099 cell. Any help you can give us in locating some one familiar with this light would be appreciated. My e-mail is [email protected] Send me an e-mail and I will send you pictures of our light.

Bobby
Houma,La.


----------



## tvodrd

Zanzare, click on the User's handle, BVH, and you'll see an option to PM him. Cleaning the lamp electrodes has restored at least two of the beasts to operation. Handling the lamp requires heavy clothing and a full face shield, and for heaven's sake don't touch the glass with a finger! BVH :nana: can walk you through pulling the lamp, and cleaning its contacts with a scotchbright pad. We're all still learning these things here, and I was lucky that mine lit on the first try!

Larry


----------



## zanzare

Good Morning I would like to thank everyone that has responded to my plea for help. Through this forum I have located a person in Atlanta who has similiar type lights and because of his location I have agreed to bring the light to him for repair. My light is a AN/VSS-1 off a M60 tank that has been modified to fit on a MT3900 mount all of which is mounted on a M-416 jeep trailer frame with a generator. I do not know how to post pictures but if some one who does know how to post pictures will use my E-Mail address that I have posted earlier and send me an E-Mail I will send them my pictures.
I will keep you all posted on how this project turns out.

Thanks again
zanzare


----------



## BVH

Here's pics of Zanzare's light rig.


----------



## FOPLODGE44

I usually just lurk in awe in here , but I must say that is one fine light!

I cannot wait until you get it running and post your beamshots!


----------



## greenLED

on that shootout you keep threatening us with.

Actually, there might be so much light you get shut down by the FAA... :duck:


----------



## tvodrd

Just a thought, but how did you interconnect the searchlight and generator? If you power pin A (the main + heavy guage) prior pin C on the searchlight, the ignitor will blow. This may also happen if pins A and C are powered simultaniously. If I can find it, I'll email you the schematic and instructions. They call for a high current relay which is energized by pin C on the control box to connect main power to pin A on the light.

Larry


----------



## zanzare

Hi The search light trailer was put together by a person in Mass. who restores military equipment. He is an ex-army maintenance guy who has done great work on the various pieces that our museum has sent him in the past. This light has really been a problem for him and he has given up on it. I have no idea what has been done in his shop. The damage might be slight or major. We are picking up several pieces of equipment up north and on the way down we will bring the search light to Atlanta wher we have located a person who has several lights and he has agreed to look at it and see if he can get it to work. Any info that you can furnish to assist us would be appreciated.

Thanks

Zanzare


----------



## zanzare

I forgot to mention in my other response I have purchsaed two manuals that will assist us with the repair.
TM11-5855-250-12&P
TM11-5855-250-34LD.

Zanzare


----------



## ShortArc

Remember, as I found out, the ignitor is quite robust. Incorrect wiring will most likely blow resistors on the main controller board.
Cheers.


----------



## BVH

FYI....VSS-1 vrs VSS-3 shootout in a new HID thread.


----------



## lotsalumens

There are some VSS-1 bulbs on ebay. Pretty expensive though:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hanovia-Xenon-A...5QQihZ004QQcategoryZ42883QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Charles


----------



## tvodrd

I think I paid a c-note for mine from a guy in Israel, and it was new in the shipping tube. 

O.T. but have you been getting the weekly updates on the -3A tripods progress?

Larry


----------



## London Lad

BVH said:


> FYI....VSS-1 vrs VSS-3 shootout in a new HID thread.



Where ? :candle:


----------



## BVH

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/167126


----------



## London Lad

Thanks, missed it, I must be getting old.


----------



## billhess

selling mine


http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?p=2040531#post2040531


----------



## BVH

Finally got my Xantrex Link 10 installed on my VSS-1. Here's some figures:

Amperage draw for the first five minutes of running: 87 - 93
Amperage draw after 5 minutes or so: 79 - 83
Amperage draw after 25 minutes: 79 - 83
Amperage draw of fan only (cool down): 6.3

I also noticed a definite increase in the speed of the fan (sound pitch increased) somewhere around the 5 minute mark and I would guess it coincides with the 10 Amp reduction in consumption. I don't know what thats all about. Is it just that the efficiency of the burn in the lamp increases when its fully warmed up? Or is there some circuitry that is causing this?

Simple calculations indicate the Amperage draw of only the light after warm up is 73 - 77 after taking away the 6 Amp fan consumption.

While these readings were being taken, Voltage started at 27.2 and ended at 24.4 under load. Batteries recover to 25.6 immediately after light is switched off and 25. 7 after fan shuts down. These are Universal brand AGM deep cycle Group 31, 110 Amp batteries.

Just thought I'd share some interesting facts and figures.


----------



## Xzn

AN/VSS-1 for $75 http://cgi.ebay.com/SEARCH-ZENON-SH...goryZ588QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## BVH

I'm running 4 each, 12V, 110 AmpHour batteries in 2S, 2P netting about 220 Amps @ 26 Volts. Plenty for the Vss-1 for an hour or more. My question is this. I have an Iota 27 Volt, 40 Amp smart charger/power supply. It's a very high quality regulated power supply in addition to being a smart battery charger. If I were to hook the charger to my batteries and turn it on while the light is running and drawing about 85 Amps, will it damage the charger by pulling too many Amps? I would guess that the batteries would act as a buffer and provide the required Amps similar to if I was asking a 40 amp generator to do the same duty. But I'm not convinced.


----------



## IgNITEor

BVH, your control wiring diagram from aways back was super helpful. 

To all still watching this thread, I haven't contributed for sometime. My
VSS has been in mothball status far too long and for all the wrong reasons.
I've recently put together a reliable DC power supply so things are getting closer to ignition.

Until recently, I haven't been inside to deep to closely inspect the unit. There's evidence of corrosion on the center backside of the reflector.
I'm on the hunt for connector and terminal issues as some have described in earlier postings.

Since this thread has been a _very_ excellent and durable resource for assembly work, I'm hesitant to start a new thread. I have some pix to share of the crazy reflector corrosion ans as well some degradation of the sealant along the edges of the IR lens.


Until I can remember how to post links properly, :thinking: it's all I can do. 
The shoot-out between VSS-1 & 3 was very inspirational. I hope to get closer to that moment of luminous fun or fail!


----------



## IgNITEor

Forgot to apologize for breaking in so abruptly. Sorry!


----------



## TheGreyEminence

Google Mail???


----------



## IgNITEor

Yeah, I know, not the best link choice. To read it clearly would take up the whole screen here. Still learning.


----------



## BVH

Hi IgNiteOr. I enjoy seeing old threads surface! It's good to keep posts about a subject in the same thread instead of creating new ones. Check out the SoCal get-together thread for some pics of last nights beam shots with tank lights and a 60" carbon arc. Get that thing lit off, ok???

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/189036&page=2


----------



## IgNITEor

O.K., my previous attempt to provide a link has failed. I'll try again later.


----------



## IgNITEor

Here's the classic searchlight ranging bulletin I tried to post earlier:





If it doesn't open up to a nice readable size, here's the link:

http://bp1.blogger.com/_ATcP7WsclhQ/R9S2HrSxQRI/AAAAAAAAABI/fGt0bUFrn50/s1600-h/CPF.JPG

As I stated earlier, I've discovered some strange contamination deep inside the housing. It appears something has degraded the sealant around the edge of the IR lens. I'm concerned small chunks are going to circulate through the heat exchanger and eventually around the lamp. 






A closer view:





Here we have some very aggressive oxidation on the reflector's aluminum hub backside:





and closer:





I haven't noticed any other corrosion issues elsewhere inside, however, there does appear to be some discoloration around the polished outer area of the reflector on one side near the edge.

Has anyone tried to clean their lamp? 

After watching that nasty video of the guy having a very used lamp explode  (leaving bloody holes in his face) I still sweat and shake a little when wearing the protective gear and looking carefully at my lamp!

BVH, I would SO much travel South to witness the SoCal shoot-out next time. Along with persistent thread-keeping, an evening of beamshots is
welcome wear on lamp electrodes!


----------



## BVH

When I first got my -1, I had to take my lamp out and lightly clean the metal contact edges because the light flickered and would not start. I will say that my legs were like jelly and I wasn't comfortable until the lamp was back in place and the front cover was on. There were no real visible signs of corrosion on the lamp contacts but I cleaned it anyway. It may simply have been the act of removing and re-installing the lamp, scratching up the contact areas that may have fixed the problem. My light looked as-new throughout the inside.

My thought on the infra-red lens is to remove it and the sealant completely. The light emits a lot of UV and if you can't see the UV, it would be easy to damage someone's eyes in a micro-second. Without realizing it, someone could walk right in front of the light before you know it. I pulled the fuse from the infra-red lens actuator motor. (the middle one)


----------



## IgNITEor

I'm going to take a careful look at the lamp again from the side with the 
lenses rolled back :duck:and just do a gentle dust-off and check for any wayward smudges. I do not have the tech-manual that covers lamp removal and the e-manual links posted by you or Billhess? CarbonArc? aren't active. 

Sadly, I found the mains solder connections on the panel mount receptacle I've installed in the control box to be loose. These were done by a plug shop that assured me they could handle the #1 AWG. I supplied. Since they're snug inside the solder sleeves, I'm certain I can at least run the blower to purge the system and check again for debris.

OTHERWISE!! I'm way closer to lite-off than before.
So close in fact........I can smell the photons.
I'm also going to replace the RTV around the IR lens.

Jeeeez, talk about out-of-the-crate madness!!


----------



## BVH

The lamp is very easy to remove. Remove the two very small phillips screws - one on each side, that hold the top black small metal cover on. This cover is also part of the cooling air duct. It's square with a rounded front. (It's not the big black metal cover that is in the very front of the light and covers the the multi-lens assembly. It's held on with 4 screws) Lift off the cover. You'll see what looks somewhat like a spark plug wire connector. This is the power connector cable. Lift it off. IIRC, there's a little wire handle that's folded down. It pivots up so you can gently pull the lamp out. The wire handle is part of the lamp. I sort of moved the lamp left and right, fore and aft as I applied gentle lifting force. It lifts straight out. The bottom electrical connector is a bunch of copper fingers in a circle simply griping the bottom metal end of the lamp. Be sure you have a very clean and safe place to put the lamp before you pull it out. Once the lamp is safely out and stowed, look down at the copper fingers to be sure they are clean.


----------



## IgNITEor

I'll try that. I've already had the top elbow off so I could get the reflector out, do a deep chassis search, and install some bolts for the trunnion support. 
Lately I've been calling it the Varo Cave.

The lamp removal procedure comes with the action soundtrack from Mission Impossible, right? Like some detonator with only seconds left??

This is the big reason I limit my mod exploits to just one Xenon (at a time)!


----------



## BVH

Wearing safety goggles covered by a face shield is not being too protective. That's what I did. Also, heavy gloves and some type of chest protection like a welders apron/schmock.


----------



## IgNITEor

Sadness Over Cometh!

I was well on my way to fan purge and hopefully a test ignition when some very important connections vaulted my fun into prime despair. The shop I paid to solder the power & control conductors to the main receptacle failed miserably.
I didn't think as to WHY until I got in there pretty deep.

I'm holding off on lamp extraction to do the plug repairs. And yeah, is does take some serious Deep Heat! Everyone remember this part?




So, not having the bad *** soldering machine needed for this heavy work
I did a little upgrade on what I have. Starting with 140 Volts over-driving the Weller (which got very warm in the hand) I quickly assembled an after cooler. One 12V micro fan, grande size cup, and some gaffer's tape.

I have reached the Deep Heat.



One down, one to go!​


----------



## BVH

John, I used a propane type torch (separate Mapp gas and oxygen cylinders connected to a very small tipped torch. Buy at Loews or Home Depot) to do my heavy gauge soldering. I can regulate it down to a very small but VERY accurate and hot flame to where very little if, any insulation burning takes place and I also get a very good bond.


----------



## IgNITEor

I have had some issues with open flame  and just looking at the only
"good" work done nearby gives me pause. I did check out the dandy
micro torch right next to the Wellers. Killer grip on that puppy!
I was tempted......
The Weller mod gets on it nice now. But if I did again, I'd try the torch fer' sure!
The recep came from Connector World and I paid extra for the high heat
version. That was good.


----------



## IgNITEor

_


BVH said:



..................get that thing lit off, ok???

Click to expand...

_


BVH said:


> So here's an update: All the heavy soldering is done. MIL. snake receptacle is reinstalled and terminations are almost complete inside the control box.
> Why......so......long....?
> 
> This wonderful apparatus, IF it lites-off, will be serving duty in a very harsh environment. The mains connection, searchlight control cable grip, and circuit breaker have to be installed to nearly dust-tight standards. This stuff gets into everything *fast* and doesn't like to leave.
> I going to do a bench test this week.


----------



## IgNITEor

Gentlemen. Success at last! At approximately 1 P.M. P.D.T. the master switch was thrown. And there was light in abundance plus a groaning rectifier.
Even in broad daylight, the heat was serious!
Bench test complete, I'll lower the Death Ray from it's hoist and try to get it outside the shed for a night test, even if it rains!
This rig has an interesting old Army smell........... or is that stale aftershave from the fine folks at Varo Inc.?


----------



## BVH

ConGrats! IgNITEor!! I always noticed a very pleasant, sweet'ish smell when working around my military lights. I actually miss that fragrance!

Let's see some beamshots when you get a chance. Hmmmm, I haven't see hide nor hair of JimH since he moved his -1 up to your area. You haven't seen his beam, have you?


----------



## tvodrd

Welcome to the "club," IgNITEor!  Lotta research and hands-on required. You won't be disappointed! 

Larry


----------



## IgNITEor

Yeah! No kiddin', the control box just about kicked my frontal lobes into
lamp over-drive! It's all good......nothing like threading umpteen inches
of #2 everywhere.
BVH, haven't seen JimH's -1 cutting through the soggy skies as of yet. Most eve's I've been crimping my way to happiness and high amperage, but now I can come out, look around, and PLAY! 

The hour of darkness is here, so I'm going to rig for low cloud cover and see what kinda beam we're working with.

More later


----------



## IgNITEor

WHOA  !
#1- I'm gonna need 240 Volts.
#2- I need a spotter!  Now!!


----------



## IgNITEor

It's hard to imagine not having sufficient juice fed out to the shed. I knew it would come to this someday :shakehead My trusty 125 amp rectifier, and it's companion, the mighty 2 kW Variac, just couldn't cut it. I want to keep system voltage up around 26 Volts, but with all the noise -raspy -1 blower, AC hum- and listening for approaching aircraft :naughty: I just couldn't keep it together.

However, when stress occurs:





begin therapy at once!

I'll "borrow" the 240V cords from the HMI system and get this rig more out in the open.
King County Police and their beloved Guardian One chopper may have heard about last night! NightSun ain't no match for a tank light......


----------



## BVH

Yeah, in relative comparison:

Nightsun = Mag 3-D
VSS-1 = Mac's Torch

Well.... to be fair, the NightSun will do better in a "flood" mode and probably won't cause permanent blindness or other eye damage so that's a plus for it!


----------



## IgNITEor

First up for VSS- 1 weirdness that comes to mind: The red indicator lamp is lit from the get-go on closing the main circuit breaker. And, during the last orderly shut-down, the fan didn't continue to run as described in the TM. Seemed like it had been on for at least five minutes.:thinking:

What air does exhaust is nice & warm. Been handy these past chilly nights.

Does anyone else have this happen?
Was there a post back somewhere about a t-stat switch not operating correctly?
It was about 40 degrees last night.

If it's still raining, I may have to hold on the first round of beam shots.

I'm still gonna git the cords out, no fun not trying after all the nit-picky
detail work that has brought this flame-thrower back to life!

Too bad G-1 isn't airborne. The NightSun could still have another chance....


----------



## BVH

Pilot light is on upon powering up the circuit. Goes out in "standby" and "on". I've had numerous times when the fan did not continue to run, even on a 78 degree day after 10 - 15 minutes of run time. Given a 40 degree night, I doubt the fan would continue to run no matter how long you ran it - well within reason, anyway. IIRC, the fan stops running at about 117 F or so. Tstat is at the end of the very small red and yellow wires going into the lower cooling manifold - right side as viewed from the front. I have some close-up pics posted here somewhere.....

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/110558&pp=30&page=9

Post 257


----------



## IgNITEor

Hey that's a relief! Thanks for confirming that. As I did this next session, the cooling system ran briefly afterwards. Dries out the deck very nicely just below the exhaust port :laughing:

Your control diagram worked perfect. It was raining for sometime and nary a drop got inside the power box. Then the rain stopped, and I grabbed the easiest digital we have that has manual function. These are strictly test shots.

Therefore:



 *
W I D E mode*





*FOCUS mode
*
It appears the tarnishing along the outer reflector edge hasn't stopped this Finger of Flame!


----------



## BVH

Looks like you're hitting a cloud! Probably vaporized it! No inquisitive helo's? To skiddish to fly in the rain.


----------



## IgNITEor

WOW! Last few days have been hella fun. 
The -1 has performed flawlessly. I took the unit down to a friend's ultra
huge garage for some template work so we can get started on the yoke & pedestal. 
Of course, it got dark, and we did some further testing. He watched my every move as I went through the operational procedure :naughty: .

I have limited space for ongoing R & D:



It's advisable to leave the door open when operating the - 1 in ALL modes!!

Yoke welding will begin shortly. There's been talk of attaching an operator's
seat to the pedestal so light & operator can azimuth as one.

Last weeks initial testing went like this:




In focus mode, it went right over the head of my spotter on the island in the center, and continued on to the peninsula at far left. The "-1" to island = 3.6 miles. Next target is the Alki Point lighthouse from the spotter's property:






which is 5.3 miles. We will be testing the "Read A Newspaper" theory.

Once the weather stabilizes for at least a few days, I'll record some better beam shots, and perhaps a _slight _shoot-off with the 25-inch HMI.
I think I know how it'll turn out.....


----------



## BVH

IgNITEor, In your first shot, the text seems to indicate you shot away from the airport, (but I'm not sure) When comparing the two pics though, it would seem that you shot toward the airport? Just a caution if you did based on my experiences. You had no inquisitive crowds gather? I'm anxious to hear if you can read the newspaper at 5.7 miles - or more.


----------



## IgNITEor

Yeah, it's a little cornfusing.....
The two major airports, Sea-Tac and Boeing Field, are SE and E of the beam's
point of origin on the mainland in the center. Sea-Tac has a way-tall fancy new tower and can see all. No gathering's of the wayward afoot, yet there always seems to be more cars driving around our block soon afterwards!

The second image originates from Vashon Island where the Death Ray's other operator resides. We will be checking the Vessel Tracking Service website prior to the newspaper test. "Clearance, Clarence"

I'm up-sizing the battery mains to the control box from #2 to 1/0 because we seem to dropping about 1-1.5 volts. Since we'll be running the -1 for up to 2 hours at a time, it's good practice.

Do you miss your -1 very much, and did you ever get a response on your rectifier question?


----------



## IgNITEor

O.K. It's been a few weeks since I've kept up with progress reports. There have been some minor technical difficulties. *Please stand-by:


*First, there is/was a small matter with the Moon being right about where two of the images are posted below, and totally messing with my fun
(aka "Research")

Second, the newspaper test failed almost miserably and I needed a break from the lumen induced madness that followed soon after our session.
A simple navigation error plus the identical structures of the two familiar lighthouses led me astray. The _intended_ target area is obstructed by a stand of trees. The remaining lighthouse (just a few degrees west of the -1's aim out over the sound) is about 10 miles away.

Yeah, It wasn't easy to shake off. However, this is what was captured as the tide was beginning to swirl around our boots:







Using my limited skills with digi-cam settings, this shot is pretty accurate with beam intensity. The Death Ray was operating on batteries only and therefore not at full power. The shot was at about 25% zoom and our position was just a few yards short of the _intended _target :shakehead. The distance to the island is about 5.3 miles. 

Since then, I've been conducting some experiments. Alone, with no secondary aircraft spotting, I was able to capture a fairly accurate shootout with the Death Ray #2 (1200 Watt HMI) and the "-1" going for deep-space penetration:









Beam intensity is about normal in this exposure and the -1 is at 
full power with 28 Volts applied.

And, as always, *W I D E *mode which hopefully will be very useful while operating on the Playa:










A few posts back, I was asking about the cooling system on the -1 running after lamp shutdown? Well, I fingered out that little issue right quick. Until I had an accurate DC ammeter between the rectifier and batteries, I wasn't quite at proper voltage for "spec" operation. I felt the original test voltage of +/- 26 Volts was a done deal. So I found the pot. for voltage control on the rectifier I've been using and ran it up to full output.
With some drop by the time it gets to the control box, I'm finally pulling 125 amps. at start, and tapering off to a solid 100 amps after about 10 minutes as described in BVH's post some time ago.
Now, even at 50 degrees ambient, cooling continues for about 10 minutes.

I'm really liking this light........seriously.


----------



## Patriot

Nice posts igniteor. I enjoyed reading them. The pics were a little bit small, even 640x480 would reveal a lot more.


----------



## BVH

I'm kind of confused on some of your text referring to the first pic?

What was the newspaper test?

So it looks like once warmed up, the light at 28 Volts is drawing 10 -15 more Amps versus typical battery Voltage at 25-26. On a controlled target, can you tell the difference in brightness? I'd be interested to see comparison shots your next time out.


----------



## IgNITEor

Thank you Patriot36, I'm always defaulting to newbie sized pix after "observing" CPF rules of engagement, and they're still to small!
Workin' on 'em as we text.

BIG images are my preference, so let's see what I can do.


----------



## IgNITEor

Well now I've really gone & dunnit........

I need a better host site to url the pix into the CPF site instead of cut & pasting my silly arse into the laughing room with no walls!

Meanwhile, getting to your question about the newspaper test, there was an ad for StreamLite some decades ago about reading a newspaper at one mile?
O.K., we with Tank Lights can certainly do better. So my proposal to the Death Ray crew was to read some newsworthy text at the 5.3 mile lighthouse target area using the -1.
However, that target is where we shot the image of the beam coming from Vashon Island while the low tide was rising.

I pretty sure there would be a measurable difference with voltage increase, and I'm still looking for a suitable test range :hairpull: nearby. 

And yes, I do believe the -1 is performing better at full voltage. I can assure you the heat coming from the exhaust vent is WAY warmer than usual! I thought there was some voltage regulation happening inside but apparently that's not the case on this model. Perhaps said regulation (boost) only happens when we select the overdrive mode?

Now if I had a parts only -1, I might try that.

I'll have to get to the image redux later today.


----------



## BVH

Photobucket has been flawless for me in hosting pics. Lots of space for free. Photobucket.com

I was told a newspaper can be read from 5.7 miles utilizing a 60" carbon arc. I'll be curious to see what you come up with.


----------



## IgNITEor

Alright now, pix are re-inserted into my earlier post above. What isn't clear in the shootout is the slight purple color of the -1 compared to the the HMI
beam color. I've seen this difference with other shots of hand held's and their differing color temps elsewhere in this group.

Thank you BVH and Patriot36 for those suggestions. WAY easier than my previous machete tactics!
I would imagine your 60-incher would do more than light up newsprint at that distance, at the least supply several dozen readers with ample reading light.

Looks like we'll be going into the sage lands of Eastern Washington somewhere for long range testing. I'm curious too. The beamshot of the 25-inch HMI is with the lamp horizontal to the reflector, not it's typical vertical position which I've been using as standard. Since the reflector is a shallow depth type, I really want to see the shape it provides on a flat surface vs. the vertical position and measure the foot-candles:candle: 

This may require Ra's input and direction.


----------



## IgNITEor

Gonna need this thread alive for range pix & details, coming to CPF
theater near you!
Or should I submit my application to the BIG lights department?


----------



## UncleCharliesAttic

*Re: FOR SALE - AN/VSS-1 Searchlights*

Hello:

I have 6, or so, of these searchlights, used, for sale. Located Niagara Falls NY. If anyone is interested in buying one or all, please email me at [email protected]
Thank you.
Tom and Joanne


----------



## mbouchard

Great forum... well I'm new here and have one of these monsters AN/VSS that has been sitting in our lab for 5 years from Saturn Surplus...

Now that I goggled and found this forum, looks like you guys did all the hard work for me ... I am now ready to complete this project and firer up this baby in the next few weeks which will be mounted in / on a M35A2 Duece.

Will keep all posted on this project and again - I thank all of your for your hard work over the years and sharing all this great knowledge via trial and error...

mbouchard


----------



## BVH

Take some day and beam shot pics and post them so we can see! Welcome to CPF!


----------



## mbouchard

Thanks BVH... I as wondering if that schematic / wiring diagram on page 9 of this forum (which you posted) is still up to date? And... just to verify because I am still learning, I have an; AN/VSS-1(v)2 unit... in great shape... don't know what the 2 stands for at the end? Hopefully this is the same unit everyone else is dealing with out here - purchased from Saturn Surplus about five or so years back?

And of course I will post a few screen shots of my progress and when I fire this thing up.

Also looking for the proper mount (MT-3900A/GSS-14(v)) or whatever... if you or anyone knows where I might be able to locate one.

Thanks,
mbouchard


----------



## BVH

Schematic is still up-to-date and mine had the (v) 2 also. I think they all did.

I was constantly looking for the GSS-14 mount and was never successful. I think they are extremely difficult to find. If you want the schematic in AutoCAD 2004 format, let me know. I think I can convert it to a .dxf file also if that is better.


----------



## mbouchard

Mr. BVH,

Well thank you for the efile / autocad file offer but I can work with this drawing knowing it is up to date - only comment I might add (and it's only my observation)... 

Is that if someone didn't know any better , like I before I started researching / reviewing this blog... and reviewed this diagram - right from the get go at the VDC power inputs; you have noted *+24vdc BAT* and
*-24vdc BAT...* which in my idustry we have negitive VDC voltage as well... which the delta would be that of 48vdc. 

To confuse matters worst, I read elsewhere that there is a 55vdc requirement when this unit fires up :thinking: so all the _wrong_ variables where in the right place for me to think that this unit did require a 50vdc (plus or minus 5vdc) votage... 

It was me just being  ... So I would say the -*24vdc BAT* input should just be or read GROUND!!! And again, this was just me being a half butt engineer and reading to deep into this.

So thanks again for the info and I look forward to sourcing these parts today and getting this project on its way.

I shall also check with some of my other surplus buddies to see if we can find some of these old GSS-14 units anywhere...

Over and out, 

mbouchard


----------



## BVH

That's what happens when i "know enough to be dangerous"! Just in case, I will change my AutoCAD file in case someone else comes along.


----------



## tvodrd

BVH said:


> That's what happens when i "know enough to be dangerous"! Just in case, I will change my AutoCAD file in case someone else comes along.



:thumbsup: Friend.

I retire in 42 days (yes, counting down) and looking forward to moving 5 tanklights and my shop to a free state!

Larry


----------



## BVH

Hi Larry. Fantastic News on your upcoming retirement!!! It's been 5 weeks for us and it's everything I've been led to believe retirement is. Lots of time to do fun stuff. Able to take off on a whim and not think about having to go back to work! I'm very happy for you!


----------



## IgNITEor

O.K. I'm finally recovering from the range testing in the high desert!

Yes, nearly all of my concerns & considerations regarding the VSS-1's
capabilities operating in harsh conditions have been addressed. 

This unit survived, delivered, and out-performed itself considering it's age and how long it sat in storage!

Operator's on two shifts, myself included, had to duck inside the truck when brief white-out conditions occurred. Since you cannot simply unplug the light
and run (cooling!) it just kept humming right along.

The beam reached over 4 miles to the roadway on the other side of the perimeter and provided ample illumination for units in position viewing activity in that area.

The Death Ray is still mounted to the back of my truck :naughty:


----------



## Flashanator

dam, sounds amazing,

so wish these vss lights were available local for me


----------



## DM51

IgNITEor said:


> The beam reached over 4 miles to the roadway on the other side of the perimeter and provided ample illumination for units in position viewing activity in that area.
> 
> The Death Ray is still mounted to the back of my truck :naughty:


*PICCSSSSSSSS PLEEEEEEASE!!!!!!*


----------



## IgNITEor

They're coming, honest!!

Last night was pure cornfusion as I tried to deal with PhotoBucket's stooopid edit feature. And, to make matters worse, I somehow logged on to CPF with two separate computers  one (a Mac) wouldn't load jpeg
files, because I'm new to that system, and my shed dwelling laptop (a PC) had a slow wireless signal.

I pinged the other Death Ray crew to send in all ops. related still shots.
Shooting footage or pix was a little tough because we only had the the SonyCam and my "trainee" was still learning to operate his camera. All this while maintaining radio contact with other units and sweeping up to 3 miles of shoreline using a spotting scope and night vision goggles. We were pretty busy.

I have handy cam footage with the unit in operation out on the Playa, I've never tried to load short mpeg's into a blog or forum (!) page. So,as a precaution, I'm going to capture some frames and see how they size up for a jpeg. I might try for a YouTube viddy and post the link here.

Luckily, a couple of really good things happened:

An unintentional HOT disconnect of the DC supply, while in operation did not result in a lamp explosion oo: The Xenon gods were there to protect us!
It can take up to 30 minutes or more for complete lamp cooldown (blower cycle's off) probably because it takes forever to heat that thick magnesium housing and we were operational for up to 4-5 hours at a time.
The overdrive option works VERY well, sucks a lotta juice, and also did not
explode the lamp! Cycling the O.D. option was by accident, but we tried twice. Insanity at the pull of a knob.

Could that have been me who messed up the server last night?
Sorry!!!


----------



## IgNITEor

DM51 said:


> *PICCSSSSSSSS PLEEEEEEASE!!!!!!*


 
O.K. Had some real trouble back there in image hosting land. These pics are post-event with the Death Ray as it currently sits.......taking up a lotta space in my truck bed!









Two NorthStar 170's (AGM) are tucked under the white tool box and are still holding a charge even after several demo's of short duration. During the event, a Honda genset sat on the tailgate's left rear area. This provided 240 Volts to the skinny rectifier over on the right side behind the light in this pic. It's rated for 120 amp output and I have the voltage set as high a possible, 27.8 Vdc, just under the level that triggers overvoltage alarm.





blast. 
In this shot, you can see the rust already forming on the recently semi-finished yoke assembly! (Rust Never Sleeps). The work on this part was started in a large garage miles from my house and weeks before departure. My welding buddy tweaked his back and had to bail just days before I left for the desert! I had to grab his old Lincoln buzz-box, snake a thick power cord out to the shed (!) and finish the welding surrounded by flamables and a very tight work space. The gray junction box behind the yoke is full of DC power distribution and the wiring for the main power/control cable.

****Diagram for this apparatus provided by BVH**** Thanks hombre!!

It all rotates as one unit so the operator has easy reach to the controls.
The edges of the gussett's (sp?) have some rubber hose protection, cheezy, but very functional. If you don't remember to rotate back around
you find yourself doing a little field welding!

In one high-speed braking incident, the double 3/4" plywood and all 400 lbs. of VSS-1, yoke, base, and the generator slid forward almost 3-inches, so we had to support the control cable in a weird way to keep it from rubbing against the tool box when we lost the clearance.

I'm tired.........I'll add more pics tomorrow.
Still working on stills from the ops. footage.


----------



## Flashanator

OH yea, look forward to some beamshots of this bright sucker


----------



## IgNITEor

Well..........I think I've gone through most of the still shots and so far no
wild flaming beams burning through the dusty desert night. I remember a certain piece missing from the tripod, which also resulted in _another _cheezy gaffer's tape session with installing the spotting scope :shrug:






So, because of the missing tripod piece, probably most of the beamshot attemps with the digi-cam were to funky to keep. We'll have to capture
some viddy frames fer' sure. 
The genny shown above is a EU6500is. More than we need, the average load was 3600 Watts during the first 20-30 minutes, then it drops to 3400W soon after. It was fairly quiet and could run almost two shifts (12 hours) if you gave it a rest near the end and ran on battery only. 








Getting ready for some dusty surveilance.







This is a relatively clear moment. Winds always kick up later in the evening, or a ranger truck drives very fast somewhere upwind raising a HUGE cloud and rooster tail of playa for all to breathe. 

Didn't trouble the Death Ray any :thumbsup:


To mbouchard: If you're intrested in dimensions for a yoke and the method of attachment, i'd be happy to detail that. You asked about the (v2) ?
I'm pretty sure that states your version, like mine, is equipped with a pink IR filter lens. I got mine from Saturn Surplus as well.

To tvodrd: Happy soon-to-be retired! Being tired is also acceptable, more fun + time to play with dangerous and powerful lamps!

To


----------



## DM51

Excellent! It would be great to see some shots of it lighting up those hills in the background of your 2nd photo.


----------



## Flashanator

OMG!!! 

This thing looks amazing....

I can't imagine how GOD DAM bright this beam would be In that crystal clear Light pollution free night sky

Must be such a beautiful sight.

Oh man wish I was there to witness it. 

Look forward to beamshots.


----------



## batvette

> In this shot, you can see the rust already forming on the recently semi-finished yoke assembly! (Rust Never Sleeps).


 
Keerist, you'd think people in the corrosion rich environment of Washington State's coastal area (the sound? they call it?) would have heard of this newfangled PAINT stuff. 

If you're too lazy to chip off that rust they even make primer you can brush right on. Or cold galvanizing spray. 

****was in Navy. Hates rust****

Love the setup though. Good work.


----------



## batvette

Flashanator 500mW said:


> OMG!!!
> 
> This thing looks amazing....
> 
> I can't imagine how GOD DAM bright this beam would be In that crystal clear Light pollution free night sky
> 
> Must be such a beautiful sight.
> 
> Oh man wish I was there to witness it.
> 
> Look forward to beamshots.


 
Yeah, after so many potent lights are emasculated by beamshots of a couple hundred feet of driveway to land on the side of an outhouse, we're shown an epic landscape of something akin to what Buckaroo Banzai used to accelerate into that 8th dimension.... IN DAYLIGHT! Arrgh!

Someone's having fun toying with us..... 

(shots on previous page were impressive though)


----------



## IgNITEor

batvette,

Thanks for rubbing it in! Yeah, I get the U.S. Navy direct order: if it moves, GREASE IT! If it doesn't PAINT IT!
In this case, the yoke & trunnion assembly were _almost_ completed in time to pull duty. I brought the paint, then I found a need to add more steel under the yoke to support the VSS better and decided to leave it raw before more welding occurs.

I trust the VSS group to not implicate me with equipment negligence.........please?!

Yet, after looking at some of the other rigs, especially the -1 with all that awesome diamond plating (who could that be??) I feel kinda cheap and dirty. But this light worked it's *** off and was sandblasted more than once....by nature!


----------



## IgNITEor

drag....screeeeech...THUMP! :naughty:


----------



## Flashanator

NO BEAMSHOTS YET?


----------



## IgNITEor

So it's been somewhat of a rough road since I got rolling on this new (for me) posting project featuring a little footage from my exploits in the high desert. I recently fell victim of our struggling economy and had to step back from the family Mac as it was pressed into alternate-income duty.
My time for editing is limited, I'm not Mac savvy whatsoever, and the Firewire I use does not jack into my laptop (PC). I'm working on this.

I did manage to grab a mere 47 seconds of VSS beamshots by pure luck!

As I posted aways back, most of the viddy is too grainy for frame capture, otherwise I would have posted something by now.
Lessons learned: 
1. Always shoot video away from the light in operation, spill-light nearby messes with the auto-focus.
2. Don't be an idiot,  turn off auto-focus before you start and get used to working in manual mode.
3. Don't tease or neglect other CPF members with misleading information.
4. Do not take it personally if the group begins to taunt you for taking too long to share your offerings.

Click to view the viddy below, it's better with the lights off!
This is a first. Can't wait for a re-shoot next year:

http://s280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/IgNITEor/?action=view&current=BRC08-DeathRayBeabshots01.flv


----------



## goathouse

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Hello Willem! Been a while...I'm still looking for a modular rectifier like yours. Any contact with your friend?

Goathouse


----------



## ShortArc

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*



goathouse said:


> Hello Willem! Been a while...I'm still looking for a modular rectifier like yours. Any contact with your friend?
> 
> Goathouse


 

Goathouse,
Your PM must be disabled. I will keep it short as this is not the proper means of communicating.
No I have not heard back from my friend, I am sorry.
There are plenty of 28VDC Rectifiers to be found on eby. Here is one example: NEW TPS/TDI SPS5333-6/12898281 28V 125A AC-DC Rectifier. 
The input spec calls for 230VAC not sure if that would work for you. Anyway plenty of stuff out there. Good Luck!


----------



## modamag

*Re: AN/VSS-1(V)2 Searchlight*

Goathouse,

We have a AN/VSS-1 and AN/VSS-3 down here in SJ. You're more than welcome to come down and see it.

Better be quick though the VSS-1 is being put up F/S so it won't be here for ever.

Jonathan


----------



## IgNITEor

Indeed....a fine thread never dies.

I'm starting the process of readying the Death Ray for some more patrol action.
One of the gear motors for the filter assembly may be failing.

Who is currently sitting on the master stockpile of VSS-1 parts?
According to Peak Beam, someone came by with a big flatbed truck and cleared out their VSS inventory and headed for Louisiana.

Hmmmm....I wonder who that was?


----------



## billhess

I have lots of parts email me at [email protected] I also am selling my lights cheap


----------



## Parker VH

I could be wrong but I believe there was one of these lights on Ebay last week if anyone's interested. I search under "xenon searchlight"


----------



## IgNITEor

Thank you billhess, I'll ping you off-list.

Parker VH: I looked for that listing, curious to know what it sold for, if it did. May have been a fast sell.
Several years ago, a guy had a listing for both a GSS version and a portable generator designed to work as a unit. Someone contacted the seller and must have made a huge offer as the listing was cancelled for mysterious reasons.

I would really like to know who has a complete & operational GSS version out there, and why they're not in this group?


----------



## 65535

You should be able to pick up some pretty hefty bridge rectifiers off eBay relatively cheap. I have a pair of 60A I want to say rectifiers that are rated for up to 1000V.

The pair will handle over 100A. They are intended for use with a 80A 12V supply.


----------



## Parker VH

IgNITEor said:


> Thank you billhess, I'll ping you off-list.
> 
> Parker VH: I looked for that listing, curious to know what it sold for, if it did. May have been a fast sell.
> Several years ago, a guy had a listing for both a GSS version and a portable generator designed to work as a unit. Someone contacted the seller and must have made a huge offer as the listing was cancelled for mysterious reasons.
> 
> I would really like to know who has a complete & operational GSS version out there, and why they're not in this group?


It's still on Ebay with a buy it now price of $875.00. Just search under "xenon searchlight" and it should come up. I know nothing about these lights so I have no idea if that is a good price.


----------



## BVH

It should be noted to anyone wishing to get into one of these, the connector cable connects to the light but does not connect to the control box. Originally, it connected to the light and onto a bulkhead connector on the outside of the tank gun turret. The control box was obviously on the inside of the tank and there was a separate connection made to complete the circuit. So you'd need to be good a following a schematic and doing your own wiring.

There are two on Ebay if you search "VSS-1"

I doubt either of them are new as is reported. Most likely, they are fresh rebuilds/overhauls as the tags usually indicate.


----------



## IgNITEor

Found them. Thanks BVH.

Man, what some guy will do to sell a light!
Interesting parts in that listing. Pretty much the same "kit" as mine from Saturn Surplus. 

Girl has the -1 upside down and I don't think either one of 'em are gonna go for anywhere near $875. We shall see.......


----------



## tt4ctis3

IgNITEor said:


> Indeed....a fine thread never dies.
> 
> I'm starting the process of readying the Death Ray for some more patrol action.
> One of the gear motors for the filter assembly may be failing.
> 
> Who is currently sitting on the master stockpile of VSS-1 parts?
> According to Peak Beam, someone came by with a big flatbed truck and cleared out their VSS inventory and headed for Louisiana.
> 
> Hmmmm....I wonder who that was?


 

Hello, I purchased all of the AN VSS lights peak beam had (51). I've designed and built individual rotating assemblies, similar to skytracker units and am currently using them for my Mardi Gras parade in New Orleans. Although I'd rather not cannibalize a light for parts I'll be glad to help where I can - if at all possible. Drop me a note and I’ll see what I can do.


----------



## IgNITEor

Greetings tt4ctis3, and welcome to our group of cloud piercing hardware!

If you have any rotational design pics, please share. 

Your pm box is not working yet. Just tried to ping you.
I still haven't found a gear motor assembly to replace my ailing blackout shutter. May have to do some crazy mechanical linkage as the departure date looms near.


----------



## DM51

tt4ctis3 said:


> Hello, I purchased all of the AN VSS lights peak beam had (51). I've designed and built individual rotating assemblies, similar to skytracker units and am currently using them for my Mardi Gras parade in New Orleans. Although I'd rather not cannibalize a light for parts I'll be glad to help where I can - if at all possible. Drop me a note and I’ll see what I can do.


Welcome to CPF, tt4ctis3. 

You chose a superb thread for your first post here - looking forward to seeing your further contributions!


----------



## tt4ctis3

Thanks DM51 

I've actually been a fan for years but when I read IgNITEors' post I had to reply.


----------



## tt4ctis3

IgNITEor 

I have them in a warehouse that I don't frequent often but will try to get there soon to share some pics. I really didn't think anyone would be interested in what I was doing.


----------



## IgNITEor

I know for a fact I wouldn't have gotten _this far_ without the support of others in this group making the one beefy xenon I own operate safely and for as long as it has under the severe weather conditions it's been subjected to.

Now as I *wait to find someone willing to part with a gear motor cluster*, I shall ponder the wild desert nights coming up soon in which near-fearless beam sweeps will once again fill the endless range.

Gear cluster please, :help: anyone?


----------



## tt4ctis3

IgNITEor said:


> I know for a fact I wouldn't have gotten _this far_ without the support of others in this group making the one beefy xenon I own operate safely and for as long as it has under the severe weather conditions it's been subjected to.
> 
> Now as I *wait to find someone willing to part with a gear motor cluster*, I shall ponder the wild desert nights coming up soon in which near-fearless beam sweeps will once again fill the endless range.
> 
> Gear cluster please, :help: anyone?


 

I will check the remaining crated lights I have to see if any are marked "for parts" or if something appears missing from them. I believe I remember Robert telling me there was 1 or 2 that were used for parts but I haven't come across any yet. It will take me some time to get to my warehouse and see. I'm extremely busy at work right now and I'm not sure when I'll be able to get there.


----------



## Powerboatman1

Hello to all my fellow "illuminati"
 First time poster, long time lurker. Thought I should join in the fun now that I have purchased a "death-ray". (the one that's been on Ebay for the last 2 months)
 Not too worried about hooking everyting up, I have all the manuals and I'm an aviation electrician by trade.
 Only 2 questions for now. What would a reasonable price for a Vss-1 be, and does anyone have a source for bulbs, etc.?

-Dave S.


----------



## IgNITEor

*HALLOWEEN'S ALMOST HERE!*

Are _you_ ready? Got all of your lights charging and in standby mode? :naughty:


----------



## Data

One of these very cool lights just made its way to my house!!! :twothumbs

Wow what a cool toy. I am really liking what it does. I think I will make a mount to attach it to my truck. Only place I can use it besides pointing it up in the air from my driveway at home, is to take it to Photon Fest, which I will do. 

After reading this thread, I powered it up with two car batteries. I pulled one of my trucks up next to the other and used jumper cables. They were 8 gage cables and accounted for a loss of 2V total. The batteries were at 11V each and so the voltage to the light was 20V. The longest it ran for was 10min. It seams to work very well. I do not have a clamp meter that can go up to 100A yet so I could not measure the current. But I am sure it was low given how low the voltage was.

Thank you everybody who contributed to this thread, I have learned a lot here. I too am afraid of the IR mode and I did not even try it yet. When people see this light on they just come running, "can I play with that?"

I want to get batteries for the light and am thinking about using two truck batteries and a 6V golf cart battery. Anybody else try this? I think it will be best if it gets closer to the 28V it is expecting. That should hit it right on the head.

Cheers
Dave


----------



## Data

Powerboatman1 said:


> Hello to all my fellow "illuminati"
> First time poster, long time lurker. Thought I should join in the fun now that I have purchased a "death-ray". (the one that's been on Ebay for the last 2 months)
> Not too worried about hooking everyting up, I have all the manuals and I'm an aviation electrician by trade.
> Only 2 questions for now. What would a reasonable price for a Vss-1 be, and does anyone have a source for bulbs, etc.?
> 
> -Dave S.



Welcome to CPF! Got that thing running yet?


----------



## BVH

Data, I would not chance over-volting it by that much. Just get two good 100 - 110 AMP AGM, high quality deep cycle batteries and run in series. At about 24 to 26 Volts, mine consumed about 80 something Amps, don't quite remember. But it runs just fine on lower than 28. I would not risk the electronics at 32 -33 + Volts. And I would not risk a bulb explosion with 66 atmospheres of presser in there - 970 or so PSI. On a 2 Serial, 2 Parallel setup with 4 ea. 110 Amp AGM's, I got somewhere around 50 to 55 minutes of run time.

Also, just a word of caution.... a direct micro-second flash from this or the VSS-3 WILL cause permanent eye damage or blindness so stay with the light at all times and don't let anyone play around with it. It is part of a military weapons system and as such, is dangerous if not used carefully.

OK, getting off my soapbox now.


----------



## IgNITEor

BVH said:


> Data, It is part of a military weapons system and as such, is dangerous if not used carefully.



Like moths drawn to your porch light, the cops will be too.
Some of us have had this wonderful experience.

Have some snacks and hot coffee on hand!


----------



## Data

BVH, IgNITEor,

You are right, can't be too careful. I don't even like looking into LED lights! :tinfoil:


----------



## Data

BVH said:


> Data, I would not chance over-volting it by that much. Just get two good 100 - 110 AMP AGM, high quality deep cycle batteries and run in series. At about 24 to 26 Volts, mine consumed about 80 something Amps, don't quite remember. But it runs just fine on lower than 28. I would not risk the electronics at 32 -33 + Volts. And I would not risk a bulb explosion with 66 atmospheres of presser in there - 970 or so PSI. On a 2 Serial, 2 Parallel setup with 4 ea. 110 Amp AGM's, I got somewhere around 50 to 55 minutes of run time.
> . . .



What model number is the battery you used?


----------



## DM51

IgNITEor said:


> *HALLOWEEN'S ALMOST HERE!*
> 
> Are _you_ ready? Got all of your lights charging and in standby mode? :naughty:


I have the strangest feeling that IgNITEor is about to render us all speechless with a sensational new development in catastrophic retinal destruction...


----------



## BVH

Data said:


> What model number is the battery you used?



Let me see if I can find them. I think they were "Universal" brand that I bought from a Solar Power type of on-line store.

EDIT: Universal UB121100

stands for 12 Volt, 110 Amp. Do lots of searching. I saw some going for near 250 and as low as 170 with just a short search. IIRC, I paid around 125 for them plus shipping. For some reason, a Solar power store - I think in AZ, was the cheapest.


----------



## Data

BVH, thanks for the info. Those batteries are nice. Your 2S2P setup is a total of 220AH, they should run the light for two hours.


----------



## ShortArc

Data: Also check out the Deka SeaMate Sealed AGMs. I have had good luck with those in the harshest conditions.
Cheers.


----------



## Data

Is there a difference between AGM and standard lead plate batteries that matters to the output voltage or current? I thought AGM was to make the battery more rugged and some what lighter or more power dense.

Does an AGM battery have less voltage drop under load?


----------



## milkyspit

PMFJI, but would an array of A123Systems 26650 cells work? I'm thinking they'd hold a more stable voltage over time, plus have less self-discharge in storage.


----------



## Data

milkyspit said:


> PMFJI, but would an array of A123Systems 26650 cells work? I'm thinking they'd hold a more stable voltage over time, plus have less self-discharge in storage.



I have 160 A123 systems M1 cells just setting there on the bench. They would run the tank light but I do not have anything to put them in yet. And there is no chance that I will have time to build something before PF13. 

They are ultimately for my dirt bike project but there would be no harm in using them here. I think they are 2AH each and tend to put out about 3V under load. That is about 40 AH total (8S20P). So they should run the light for 15 to 20 min.

Cheers
Dave


----------



## BVH

Data, I'm not following how 160 A123 cells are going to run the VSS-1? You'll need 10 cells for each 28-30 Volt "pack". That leaves you with only 16 2.4 AH packs for a total of about 38 AH. Am I missing something?

AGM batts have very low resistance internally and can therefore provide more current within a given mass of material as compared to standard SLA's. At least that's what I remember when doing my research.


----------



## Data

BVH said:


> Data, I'm not following how 160 A123 cells are going to run the VSS-1? You'll need 10 cells for each 28-30 Volt "pack". That leaves you with only 16 2.4 AH packs for a total of about 38 AH. Am I missing something? . . .



You are not missing anything. You would get about 40 AH. The cells drop to about 3V under extreme load but with so many cells in parallel they will not drop very much at all. 8S would run just fine.

This is really all academic, cuz I ain't goin to build it. 


Cheers
Dave


----------



## ShortArc

To elaborate on my earlier post, the SeaMate AGMs are marine batteries and therefore are a "hybrid" of starter and deep-cycle making them well suited for "Tank Lights". All other AGM pros and cons apply.


----------



## Data

ShortArc said:


> To elaborate on my earlier post, the SeaMate AGMs are marine batteries and therefore are a "hybrid" of starter and deep-cycle making them well suited for "Tank Lights". All other AGM pros and cons apply.



Do you use just two of them to run your light or four of them like BVH?


----------



## BVH

Even though the light draws about 85 or so Amps, 2S2P with total of about 220 AH gave me only about 55 minutes down to 40% Depth of Discharge. Any lower DOD really reduces life-cycle # of re-charges. The Peukerts Factor is really in play here. Large draw really reducing available AH.


----------



## Data

BVH said:


> Even though the light draws about 85 or so Amps, 2S2P with total of about 220 AH gave me only about 55 minutes down to 40% Depth of Discharge. Any lower DOD really reduces life-cycle # of re-charges. The Peukerts Factor is really in play here. Large draw really reducing available AH.



How did you determine it was at 40% DOD? Does that imply you had 60% left?


----------



## BVH

No, 40% left as determined by Voltage. I ran mine down to just under 24 Volts, maybe 23.9 to 23.8 Volts. Here is a great site that gives great info on SLA's. About two-thirds down the page, there's a color table giving states of charge and corresponding Voltages. But you should read the entire page. It's very good info. 

http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm


----------



## ShortArc

Data said:


> Do you use just two of them to run your light or four of them like BVH?



I did both but usually ran 2 out of laziness.
The website Bob mentioned is also where I got alot of my initial information.
Cheers.


----------



## IgNITEor

I have built a heavy-duty dolly, with brakes, to roll the Death Ray out of the garage for Halloween.
Many of the folks & kiddies around our new digs have no idea what they're in for tomorrow night :devil: !
Anybody else gonna fire up their hardware? Notify the FAA yet?


----------



## BVH

My 60" is gone, my VSS's are gone.....All I have is my Locator and I don't want to waste any of my 5000K, 25-hour lamp life bulb.


----------



## IgNITEor

Oh, man, we have got to find someone who'll help you with your MARC's. The Locator is an awesome rig!

Anytime you're up this way, you're welcome to take the Death Ray for a spin.


----------



## Data

some photos from PF13

link 1

link 2

link 3


----------



## LightSward

:twothumbs Awesome light. I'd like to get something like this someday. Keep up the good work!


----------



## bd4377

I have a military infrared searchlight:

Searchlight, Infrared
AN/VSS - 1(v)2
ID # SC-D-613825-4
Ser # 0171
MSN 5855-00-137-8289

I would like to sell, dont know where to find someone interested. Does anyone have a starting point for me?


----------



## BVH

Trying to figure out why you posted your question here when "here" is where all the info you could ever want to know is located?


----------



## bd4377

I've got an AN/VSS-1(V)2 searchlight for sale. Reading all the posts has made me realize that working on light maybe a little out of my skill set!


----------



## CarbonArc

Its been awhile since my last contributions to CPF but i was wondering how anyone is making out with their AN/VSS-1 lights, been looking to sell mine for quite some time now seeing as its taking up too much space in the garage, i will get some pics and post them on the WTS forum!!! let me know if anyone has any updates!


[URL=http://news.webshots.com/photo/2402631650087481607dgFLhq]


[/URL]


----------



## IgNITEor

Yep, a VSS-1 and all of it's associated hardware does take up some space in
an average residential garage!
Thank the industrial revolution for affordable dolly's.

If I didn't "work" the Death Ray for two weeks of the summer, it too would
be in trouble.

Leaving for the Black Rock desert in T-minus: 4 days, 20 hours, 30 mins. 


Your rig looks very clean. If it wasn't for CarbonArc's thread on this fabulous
apparatus, where would we be today?


----------



## Bill Idaho

I pull my VSS-1 around on a military M103A2 trailer, behind my 5 ton M54A2C. I am trying to finish my little brother to the VSS-1, my VSS-3 on a M116A2 trailer. (I might get another VSS-1 and make the bigger trailer a twin-mount.) It should look pretty neat when done. The actual light is about 1/3 the size of the -1, the trailer is about half the size of the bigger one, and the generator I plan on using is about half-scale as well. (I'm more then likely going to have to buy a duece-and-a-half, so I have a truck about half the size of my 5 ton to drag it around.) If I had any web-fu skills, I would post some pictures.

If I could only find a 600-1000 watt bulb and matching ballast...............


----------



## Bill Idaho

One step forward--two steps back.
I finished the trailer the other day. Paint, wiring, stencils, top, etc. It looks like new! I tossed a GI 1500 watt,110 VAC generator up on it and I'm ready for some portable sunshine. 
So after reading on a thread here somewhere about a suitable ballast- a Lumatek 110 VAC dimmable 1000 watt unit was decided upon, UNTIL I read the fine print and it says "do not run off of a generator...".
So, I thought I was a little closer, only to find.....
not.


----------



## johngilmour

I think I have sen this truck in use in Boston- superbright.


----------



## Watts Up!

I would LOVE to find me a complete running VSS-3 one of these days.:wow:


----------



## Bill Idaho

As I've mentioned before, you just have to know where to look. I go to military vehicle meets/shows, and more often than not there are VSS-1's and VSS-3's for sale. Compared to some of the prices I see, they are somewhat cheaper at those places.


----------



## GSS

A good source for military connectors is William Perry in Louisville, KY. He is not real good with email and does not have much of a web presence, but you can reach him at 502/893-8724

He has sold me several sets of connectors for VSS-3A lights.

Dave Ross N7EPI


----------



## GSS

Many cellular telephone towers have equipment that runs off 28 VDC. Lots of older power supplies are removed from service and sold at surplus prices when a cell site is upgraded.

The older power supplies are not as efficient as the newer power supply designs and are removed and sold off even though they still work fine - the more efficient supplies pay for themselves pretty quick given that they are running full-time at close to full capacity.

The slightly lower efficiency of the older supplies doesn't bother me at all considering the low purchase price and how little I use the supply.

You might watch your local newspaper or craigslist, look for industrial surplus for sale. I found a 28 Volt 280 Amp. power supply for cheap, because it was too large (!) for most hobbyists.

happy hunting
Dave Ross N7EPI


----------



## lightjeep

Are spare bulbs available for the vss-1 or GSS-14 ?? How much? Who has them? Thanks in advance


----------



## IgNITEor

And.....just in case someone may be looking  A ready- to-mount GSS version.
Looks like this model may be the basic mount without the lighted azimuth indicator.

And the seller says they'll be listing a 30" model soon?
Could this mean the water-cooled TVS-3? 

Happy Holidays everyone!


----------



## BravoKilo

I bought my VSS-3 from him. That listing has been up for a while, I am kind of surprised that it has not yet been taken.... It has been relisted about 3 times now. And I also see that he is listing 10 of these 10!!!! I feel a hole burning in my wallet!!!


----------



## BravoKilo

Oops, wrong thread, sorry.....


----------



## IgNITEor

That's alright, cuz we seem to want each other's BIG lights from time to time! Wish my -1 could focus like yours!
Now I'm gonna jump to your thread an see what you've gotten yourself into lately :naughty:


----------



## BravoKilo

Oh - I am in a me$$ if you know what I mean. And seeing those VSS-1's.... Since given the opportunity of running one for a few hours this summer I have been bitten! It is perhaps the most useless of hobbies (not like owning a 20" reflector telescope), but I get it - these are fun to play with!!! Did somebody say 30"????


----------



## BVH

IIRC, those 30" water-cooled lights have internal bulb pressures in the 4-figure PSI range. Scarey stuff! I looked at buying one a few years ago but decided against it. To dangerous. Igniteor, do you have -1 focusing issues?


----------



## IgNITEor

Good Morning! 
Actually, I didn't describe that correctly. I'm referring to the adjustable beam-spread the -3 has vs. fixed with the -1 
However, when I removed the reflector for the deep cleaning ritual, I mistakenly replaced it upside down. The beam has a slight
deviation now and the mounting bolt doesn't torque down all the way!

This might explain the metallic sticker I found being used as a shim. Pretty sure that's not allowed by Army spec's.


----------



## BVH

Hey IgNITEor, there's a lot of 7 ea., VSS/GSS ignitor boxes on Ebay starting at $150, BIN for $400.

ww.ebay.com/itm/AN-VSS-1-GSS-14-igniter-military-2-2Kw-xenon-short-art-tank-searchlight-7pcs-/130837399877?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e76844945


----------



## nealitc

BVH said:


> Hey IgNITEor, there's a lot of 7 ea., VSS/GSS ignitor boxes on Ebay starting at $150, BIN for $400.
> 
> ww.ebay.com/itm/AN-VSS-1-GSS-14-igniter-military-2-2Kw-xenon-short-art-tank-searchlight-7pcs-/130837399877?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e76844945



My listing. LMK if questions (or trade ideas).


----------



## BVH

I Should have known it'd be a CPF'r


----------



## BVH

Here's a lamp.

ww.ebay.com/itm/2-2-KW-Xenon-Lamp-Searchlight-Bulb-/281057959994?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41705c203a


----------



## nealitc

For those looking for 28V power connectors/cables to hook up a VSS-3 or VSS-1
I got the MS3106E32-5S for $50 at Connector Distribution Corp 310-632-2466
4/2 Type W cable for $2.00/ft (5% discount when you sign up for newsletter) at Wire and Cable To Go 855-880-8010
MeanWell RSP-1500-27 power supplies (115/20A, can be paralleled) for $335 from PowerGate Express

My initial hookup was using 6ga THHN wired to the control box terminal block using ground lugs. Not the most secure or safe connection, but functional for testing.

* no relationship or recommendation to above suppliers, just my experience.


----------



## get-lit

The date on that lamp is dated 1967. Crazy how little has changed in 46 years.


----------



## BVH

Not sure i'm understanding why you're referencing the meanwells over the flowtrol rectifiers when the MW will underdrive the VSS's by a full Volt and you'd probably need 4 of them? That 1 Volt makes a big difference in output. The flowtrols are about $150-$175 & are 220/240 V which may be an issue but 120V 20 Amp recepticles are just as difficult to find plus you'd need 4 of them, all home runs to the panel. What am i missing?


----------



## nealitc

BVH said:


> Not sure i'm understanding why you're referencing the meanwells over the flowtrol rectifiers when the MW will underdrive the VSS's by a full Volt and you'd probably need 4 of them? That 1 Volt makes a big difference in output. The flowtrols are about $150-$175 & are 220/240 V which may be an issue but 120V 20 Amp recepticles are just as difficult to find plus you'd need 4 of them, all home runs to the panel. What am i missing?



You're right for the VSS-1, Lorain Flotrol is the way to go. I bought MeanWell first for my VSS-3, drives it at full 28V no problem, and I have 20A circuits everywhere. And it weighs about 5lbs vs. at least 75lbs for the Flotrol.


----------



## BVH

OK, so rated at 27 but puts out 28V, that makes sense. How many are you using parallel for the VSS-3 and was it $335 each or for the number that you're using?


----------



## nealitc

BVH said:


> OK, so rated at 27 but puts out 28V, that makes sense. How many are you using parallel for the VSS-3 and was it $335 each or for the number that you're using?


RSP-1500-27 output is adjustable 24-30V, rated 56A. $355 each. I'm running just one for a VSS-3 (not A), 28V measured at the control box, about 54A. Ran it for an hour at a time, no issues, ambient was about 70.
I got a Lorain Flotrol (from CPF member modamag) but have not hooked it up yet.


----------



## BVH

Well (no partial pun intended) the Meanwell sounds like a good match.


----------



## Vodnik

*AN/VSS-1 Searchlight dimensions*

Hello,

I'm a scale modeler and I plan to build a scale replica of AN/VSS-1 Searchlight. I managed to find its dimensions in a technical manual: 20.5" height, 31.5" depth and 30.75" width. But these dimensions most likely include all the mounting hardware at the rear and rails on sides. What I'm looking for are dimensions of the actual searchlight "body".

Could someone, who owns the real thing, measure it for me, please? I would like to know the height, width and depth of only the main searchlight unit, without side rails, latches, brakets, mounting hardware at the rear etc. Width and height could be measured at the searchlight "face", while depth could be measured across the top surface (without any protruding parts at the rear).
Thanks a lot in advance for any help! :thanks:


Pawel


----------



## FRITZHID

*Re: AN/VSS-1 Searchlight dimensions*

Well, I'm sure BVH will happily give any specs you require, wouldn't surprise me if he has them all memorized. Lol


----------



## NITE LITE

*Re: AN/VSS-1 Searchlight dimensions*

I could help you with the VSS-3A but not the VSS-1 sorry.


----------



## BVH

*Re: AN/VSS-1 Searchlight dimensions*

Alas, my -1 is long gone up to JimH in S.F. so I have nothing to offer.


----------



## Vodnik

Thanks for you replies, Gentlemen! Hopefully someone here still has this old searchlight and will be able to help me...

By the way, in the future I may be interested in making a scale replica of AN/VSS-3 too, so it's good to know that some of you have it


----------



## Bill Idaho

I've got both the -3 and the -1. What specific measurements do you need?


----------



## Vodnik

Bill said:


> I've got both the -3 and the -1. What specific measurements do you need?



Repeating what I wrote in my first post: What I'm looking for are dimensions of the actual searchlight "body". I would like to know the height, width and depth of only the main searchlight unit, without side rails, latches, brakets, mounting hardware at the rear etc. Width and height could be measured at the searchlight "face", while depth could be measured across the top surface (without any protruding parts at the rear).


----------



## IgNITEor

I have a -1.
The outside depth, width, & height are: 20", 25-1/2", and 19-1/2".
The inside is approximately: 18", 24" and 18". That's to the inside of the glass in the front.
Hope this helps.


----------



## Vodnik

IgNITEor said:


> Hope this helps.


Absolutely, that's exactly what I needed! Thank you very much!!!

Cheers, 
Pawel


----------



## London Lad

Heads up these one on ebay for under £10 ! HERE


----------



## IgNITEor

Always good to dig up my favorite Big Light thread!
I haven't kept anyone up to date on the Death Ray's status, so here it is:

Original Deathray (my spelling) as seen around page 11 of this thread, has suffered
reliability issues that started out on the desert about 4 years ago. The crew and I that run the light
have adapted to a procedure of sorts to operate as best possible.
The problem? Relays in the relay module and sticky drive motors for the lamp lenses!
Very annoying!!! :hairpull: At one point, the Deathray would not shift out of wide-beam mode.
Another event would have the ignition system circuit breaker trip, which required removing
the cover to reach inside for a reset.

So earlier this year, I scored a replacement from the military surplus guys in Oklahoma.
The plan was to grab all the necessary components and rebuild the Deathray.
Until I plugged it in for the garage floor test, flipped the switch to "Stand-By" and........

It's way quieter!

Went to "On", and, It has the original deep *RED* infrared lens. Not the pink "updated" lens issued later.
also a clean, tight, and super straight beam stabbing out of the garage into the trees!

Change of plans. Removed all trunnion mount hardware from previous unit, plus the sticker'd cover, mounted
said hardware and cover on the pristine parts light, and have recently recommissioned the Deathray.

Back in business, folks.
I will bring the Deathray to the next GT near Seattle hopefully this fall.
Now I am rigging the fresh Deathray to the truck bed, preparing for deployment to the desert
for the next two weeks. Leaving Tuesday.

Wish me luck :tinfoil: it's gonna be a wild ride!


----------



## BVH

It's always fun to read posts regarding the VSS's. Glad you got a good unit.


----------



## 54reo

First time poster here, so I apologize in advance if the information is on this site somewhere; I have been unable to locate it though.

I recently picked up a AN/VSS-1 and am in need of the correct wiring diagram for the cables. I noticed earlier in this thread that the diagram is mentioned as being posted, but I still can't find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you in advance.


----------



## 54reo

One of the two required connectors arrived in the mail today. Now I am waiting on the large (MS3100E22-15S) connector.

Anyone have access to the wiring diagram for these? I noticed that if wired incorrectly, there were some members that experienced failures of components.

Thanks.


----------



## BVH

54reo said:


> One of the two required connectors arrived in the mail today. Now I am waiting on the large (MS3100E22-15S) connector.
> 
> Anyone have access to the wiring diagram for these? I noticed that if wired incorrectly, there were some members that experienced failures of components.
> 
> Thanks.



I made the originals that are posted here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Searchlight&p=2022576&viewfull=1#post2022576

Give me an email to send the jpg to. Feel free to ask lots of questions if needed. You'll need to buy some type of fairly large splice box to mount the 24V solenoid, circuit breaker and fuse block into. My splicebox is pic #5 down in this post: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Searchlight&p=2015966&viewfull=1#post2015966

You don't need the shunt shown in the battery cable negative circuit. I used a Xantrex battery minder showing current draw which is why it was there.


----------



## IgNITEor

In the high desert, something went wrong with the Death Ray.

Then this happened:


----------



## NITE LITE

Looks light a spotting scope.
Is that a VSS-4 now? or a VSS-13

Burning man?


----------



## IgNITEor

Reset Button of Doom




When it got to this point, my heart sank.
Yet I still bypassed CB1 with a 30 Amp blade fuse using a separate fuse holder, and no improvement.

NITE LITE, yes, this is Burning Man. The Deathray shines for two departments and during free time whenever we pull up to an interesting camp or art installation. 

The Deathray failed early Monday morning at the start of the event week while we were outside the city on perimeter. Two attempts to reset and I knew there was a big problem.

A big heapin' bowl full of thanks to CPF'er Bravo Kilo for letting me borrow his -3! I was able to get in touch and I drove into Sparks to meet him. Very nice that the -3 is only 75 lbs. He has a DC plug for the control box, and I have spare cable and coupler to plug into the trucks on board 28V system.


----------



## BVH

Back in December member Nealitc had a 7 each, -1 ignitors he wanted to get rid of. If the ignitor is your problem, maybe you can get one or two or three.


----------



## cowboyfoomp

Dusting off the monster thread here, I have the GSS-14 with the pedestal mount. The control box is mounted on the rear of the VSS-1 itself, however the connectors is where I have a question. I have the normal heavy gauge plug labeled J1 and I have a plug with a single wire into the control box labeled J3. I have traced this single wire in the harnesses out past the pedestal and is just a bare wire in the harness. What is it? Does it need 24vdc as well? Other wise I have two heavy gauge cables that are obviously ground and 24v. Is it really as simple as add 24v and strike?






Thanks!


----------



## BVH

I had the vSS-1 so am not knowledgeable on the single wire going into the box. My guess is that it is the connector for the remote control box. How many pins are on the small input connector mounted to the control box itself? It should be as you say, as simple as connecting 24-28.5 to the large input cables. You lose a lot of Lumens/candlepower when under-driving it with less than 28VDC.


----------



## Doug1999

Hi folks,
Name is Doug and I'm new to the forum. 
I see this thread has been around for awhile and it looks like a good place to ask a few questions about xenon short arc lamps. If a better place is more approprate then feel free to redirect me to the right place.

A number of years ago I scored 10 Cermax short arc lamps for the princly price of 5 bucks each!
They were a small portion of a pallet load being returned to Perkin Elmer from a theater in the UK. I found paperwork saying the return was because of a flicker problem.

The model number is: Y1226 

I have searched for awhile and this number goes nowhere. I assume it was a special order or a manufacture's part number.

Images from the internet of this very lamp design say it's a 2kw unit. Beyond that, I have hit a dead end.

So before I start up the arc welder and sparkey coils and doom a few of these babies to a nasty demise (though not always a bad thing) I thought I'd shout out for a little help.

Thanks, Doug G.
Landers CA
N6IJS


----------



## BVH

Welcome to CPF. Post some pics with dimensions of the lamp. Those Cermax lamp ID's beginning with "Y" were always very difficult to find info on - can't say I ever did find anything on them. There's some Y1863's on Ebay. They're for Imax projectors and look to be 2400 Watt. They need a ton of forced air cooling or they'll go poof pretty fast.

"Flicker" can be caused by lots of start-ups with short run times. The high Voltage strikes erode electrode material at a high rate and cause the arc to rapidly jump from one spot on the electrode to another - and again and again and again......... Sometimes, you can get rid of the flicker by doing a "maintenance" run of over an hour. "Shimmer" on the other hand, is completely normal. Shimmer looks like the heat waves in a mirage. If you project the beam onto a close flat surface, you'll see lots of it.

If you want to sell one, I'd be interested in buying one for my collection. I don't have anything to run it but just enjoy interesting short arc lamps. I have 125, 150, 175, 300 and 1000 Watt versions. I have 3 ILC and Perkin Elmer arc lamp power supplies - 2 that are 100-500 watt and one that is 100-300 Watt.


----------



## Bill Idaho

Cowboyfoomp, that single wire is for the M151 installation. That wire connects to the oil pressure sending unit circuit, so if you loose oil pressure (and therefore the engine!), it automatically shuts off the light. I have all the TM'S and a couple of those light set-ups (and the M1512A2).


----------



## stormag

I am looking for a canvas cover for an AN/VSS1 searchlight any condition. I want to do a mockup of my old tank M60A2 1976-78. 3rd Armored Div. Germany. Any leads appreciated

thanks 
jim [email protected]


----------



## stormag

stormag said:


> I am looking for a canvas cover for an AN/VSS1 searchlight any condition. I want to do a mockup of my old tank M60A2 1976-78. 3rd Armored Div. Germany. Any leads appreciated
> 
> thanks
> jim [email protected]



bump. Still looking for cover or a pattern for cover.


----------



## IgNITEor

stormag, I think I have two canvas covers, at least one is in good shape. I will PM and email you.
Good thinking to bump your post!


----------



## stormag

IgNITEor said:


> stormag, I think I have two canvas covers, at least one is in good shape. I will PM and email you.
> Good thinking to bump your post!


Mark,

I have tried to get back to you by email but no response. I am still interested can you contact me at [email protected]? 512-638-0511 
Jim


----------



## stormag

stormag said:


> bump. Still looking for cover or a pattern for cover.


Still looking for cover. Any condition. [email protected]


----------



## stormag

Mark,

trying to reach you

still need searchlight cover

jim [email protected]


----------



## IgNITEor

Anybody here purchase the -1 from Las Cruces off of eBay yesterday?

I need parts, and had my crosshairs lined up on that unit.
Waited.....too.....long. Plus my freight receiver insisted on the lamp being removed prior to shipment.

He didn't completely understand just how beefy everything about the -1 is.


----------



## BVH

Here's a more rare AN/GSS1 for $200.00

https://www.ebay.com/itm/173417813250?ul_noapp=true


----------



## Bill Idaho

I haven't posted here in awhile. I still come to read a bunch, just don't have anything to say. Now I do.........

As some of you guys know, I collect military vehicles, and have a working VSS-1 and VSS-3. I guess my ignorance is showing, as I was not familiar with a GSS -1. This whole time I have been wrong in regards to what I have. I looked at that picture on EPay, and it sure did look familiar. so I went outside and checked my "VSS-1". I humbly stand corrected. All this time what I thought was a VSS-1 was really a GSS -1.. It is the variation of the VSS-1 that mounts to the rear of an M151, as after inspecting mine, sure enough, that's what I have. ( I thought that mount looked familiar!) Kinda neat as on one of the data tags, it shows one of the items needed is----the M151 vehicle! It also shows the 180 amp Generator/regulator (which I have) that bolts right on the M151 (which I also have), cables needed and the operating box (yep, got those too). 
Learn something every day. Now I guess I am back in the market for a real VSS-1. (And still looking for a relatively simple commercial/civilian drop-in replacement to fill the inside of an extra gutted VSS-3 I have laying around, but I digress......)


----------



## 1000EE-Monarch

New here but have been looking at this AN/VSS-1 thread for a while... I've had three of these searchlights in my collection of odd stuff for years and been meaning to get at least one of them running.

In the meantime, I am thinning down my collection by a slight amount, and put one of them in a small online auction along with a bunch of other laser and high voltage goodies. Hopefully this doesn't bother anyone, but here's a link...

Just hoping some of this stuff goes for a fair price to someone that will have fun with it. Located in Hayward, CA (San Francisco area).

Thanks, and looking forward to getting one of these beasts running!
Alex.


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## scout24

1000EE- Hello and welcome to CPF! I approved your post, but edited out the sales link. There is a dedicated Want To Sell subforum here, outside of the discussion threads. Thanks for your understanding!


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## 1000EE-Monarch

scout24 said:


> 1000EE- Hello and welcome to CPF! I approved your post, but edited out the sales link. There is a dedicated Want To Sell subforum here, outside of the discussion threads. Thanks for your understanding!



Thanks!

My next step to powering up one of the ones I'm keeping is making a breakout cable like ShortArc made early in this thread to connect from the main power cable to the control box. I'm kinda kicking myself for not having done that before putting it in the auction, but that the price of too many projects, not enough time....

A quick scan though this TM

http://www.imfmotorpool.com/files/015020.PDF

does not show an electrical schematic... Anyone have one for the whole unit or just the control cable wiring?

Thanks,
Alex


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## IgNITEor

And now, from the Central Oregon high desert:









The Deathray is alive!


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## FRITZHID

Your pic link is broken igniteor

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Candlepowerforums mobile app


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## IgNITEor

I saw that, thank you!
And now PhotoBucket has a stupid water mark?
Have I really been gone that long?


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## IgNITEor

Just had to dial that image action a wee bit.

The short story, after major OEM (Varo) component failure, I was able to replace the voltage converter and ignitor with off-the-shelf gear and bring my -1 back to life. 

And the best part? Full overdrive capability!

Next phase is to reconnect filters and black-out shield drive motors to the original control box without the original relay control.


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## London Lad

Excellent!


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## IgNITEor

Haven't checked in for a little while.
There's been more time available to dig through lots of special parts and devices to possibly set aside for a fresh build
or upgrade soon.

There's also time to see what is out there in the rest of the heavy lighting world:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbMs2AaQUVw

This is similar to the US Navy's 24" carbon arc version, however you'll see the arc assembly mounted at the 10 o'clock position.
Very cool, and the focus is super tight for such an old weapon.

Hope everyone is hanging in there.


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## LightSward

I need an ignitor for one of my 1,200 watt Xenon searchlights. Where's a good source for Xenon or any HID lamp ignitors..? Thanks.


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