# Upgrading surefire G2 NITROLON



## Stinger Flinger (Nov 14, 2012)

I have 2 surefire G2 with the regular incandescent bulbs that I never use and I would like to do led conversions to them. Google showed me a number of options but I know I should ask you guys before I waste my very limited money on some garbage. I would like to mount one of the G2 on my home defense AR and have the other as a edc for myself or my girlfriend.  I prefer lots of throw over flood if that makes a difference. I would like to use regular cr123 on the the AR mounted one and have no preference on the other.

Which conversion should I be looking at and what vendor should I get them from?
Thanks!


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## Raze (Nov 14, 2012)

The nitrolon head on the G2 presents thermal issues as the heat from the LED engine couldn't be transferred away. 

More heat = less brightness + shorter lifespan of the emitter. 

I would recommend getting a Z44 bezel to replace the standard nitrolon bezel. If your G2 is black, then a Factory Z44 HA black would match nicely. 

A Nailbender XP-G2 drop-in with your choice of tint, modes, and amperage is the natural choice for throw with a nice balance of flood for peripheral illumination. 

Alternatively, the venerable Malkoff M61 or M60 would be great as well. If you do not wish to spend the extra money for a Z44 bezel, then you can use Malkoff M61L (150 lumens) or the M61LL (100 lumens) with the stock nitrolon bezel. 

I own a G2 with a black HA Z44 from Oveready, with Nailbender XP-G2 drop-in rockin' Moonlight-Low Low-Low-Med-Hi modes. I probably want to upgrade the stock tailcap with a McClicky switch. 

IMHO, the G2 is the perfect light for cold weather. Hope this helps!


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## lumen aeternum (Nov 14, 2012)

What to use for flood? This talks about a Malkoff M60F for flood, which I don't see on the Malkoff site:

http://www.oveready.com/a-engines/malkoff-m60f-cool-single-level-drop-in-3-8-9-0v-/prod_184.html


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## Quest4fire (Nov 14, 2012)

Awwww, don't be picking on those poor G2 nitrolons! I did get a LED drop in that works off two cr123 primaries for my G2. But a better option is: Lighthound has a nice solarforce L2 host for $12.99, and a tailcap pressure switch for $8.99 (A good option for weapon mount applications) and a solarforce LC-XP-G R5 5 mode or single mode drop-in for $17.99 (Don't forget the CPF discount 2%),or if you prefer, the Nailbender XP-G2 drop in Raze mentioned ($35.00 shipped in the US). I have three solarforce lights, good, solid hosts. You can't go wrong given the vast array of P60 drop-ins available. Welcome to CPF!


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## LilKevin715 (Nov 14, 2012)

If you want to keep the G2 battery tube then you will have to use a metal head to dissapate the heat generated by P60 LED modules. The mentioned Z44 from surefire or a Solarforce L2 series head (cheaper) would work fine. Please note that you will probably want a single-mode P60 dropin as the recoil might cause multi-mode P60 dropins to change modes (batteries momentarily looses contact with springs).

As for the type of LED dropin, a dropin based off of a XR-E Q5/R2 LED driven at 1-1.5A with a smooth reflector will provide the best amount of throw for the size. Aspherical setups would throw more, but the lens may not be able to withstand the recoil. A XP-G2 P60 dropin can throw pretty decently, but it cant throw nearly as well as the XR-E.

Another alternative could be the Solarforce M3 or a Solarforce Masterpiece Pro 1 head at the cost of a larger head. The multi-mode on the M3 may or may not work properly depending on the amount of recoil. The Masterpiece Pro 1 could work as it is single mode only.


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## ikeyballz (Nov 17, 2012)

I'm gonna butt in here, sorry stinger...

1) What is a good condition incandescent G2 worth on the bay? I have an offer from someone to sell me one and I dont want to rip her off, nor do I want to get ripped off.

2) If I only want one or two modes with a max output of 100-150, could I keep the nitrolon body? I really like the idea of a non-metal light. What drop in is recommended? This would be a car fixing light, therefore I don't care about throw, more about flood and decent runtimes

3) What battery would I use? 17650? 18650?

4) Where can I get a good clicky switch conversion...for less than the $40 that oveready is asking??

5) Where do you recommend I search for these parts?



Thanks a ton! 

-edit- I stole this thread 'cuz its been 3 days without a reply from OP and I didnt want to start up a new thread just for these questions..


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## Quest4fire (Nov 17, 2012)

ikeyballz said:


> I'm gonna butt in here, sorry stinger...
> 
> 1) What is a good condition incandescent G2 worth on the bay? I have an offer from someone to sell me one and I dont want to rip her off, nor do I want to get ripped off.
> 
> ...



1) Why buy a flashlight that isn't what you want to begin with? (LED drop-in, different switch)

2) A plastic flashlight with an LED conversion, used to work on a car, will presumably be running quite a while. Heat dissipation could become an issue. Aluminum would be a more practical and versatile solution. The only time my converted G2 gets used is the occasional middle-of-the-night trip to the bathroom and looking under beds for hiding felines. I just changed the CR123's. They lasted about 2-3 years. The G2 was my first non-cheapo flashlight. Looking back, I should have spent the extra money and got an aluminum light.

3) A 18650 won't fit in a G2, not sure about the 17650. The tube insert was designed to fit CR123's (16340).

Try the solarforce solution above and you will be all set. You will have many more options available to you. Unless you just have your heart set on a G2.

Good luck ikeyballz!


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## ikeyballz (Nov 17, 2012)

Ah, I really do have my heart set on the G2 just because I want it to be rubbery/plasticy. I bite down on my lights a lot during auto-work and aluminum/metal bodies are really bad for enamel (so I hear). I read this : http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?190500-Surefire-6PLED-With-Recharchables and it appears that the 17670s will -probably- fit. I'm okay with 60-80 lumens as long as I get a good 4 hours + of usable runtime with it. Since the original SFs came with 80L in plastic bodies, am I safe to assume as long as that output (and power usage as a result) is kept, it'll be ok?


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## Kestrel (Nov 18, 2012)

17670's will definitely fit. These have another advantage over 2xCR123 & 2xRCR123 - most LED modules will be only semi-regulated at the voltage range of a single LiIon rechargeable, so output will be slightly less but most importantly, generated heat will be less compared to a two-cell setup.

Please keep in mind what others pointed out previously; that there aren't many choices for reduced-output LED modules compatible with the poorer thermal properties of the G2. The best choices would be Malkoff, Nailbender, and perhaps KosPap.



ikeyballz said:


> [...] I'm okay with 60-80 lumens as long as I get a good 4 hours + of usable runtime with it. Since the original SFs came with 80L in plastic bodies, am I safe to assume as long as that output (and power usage as a result) is kept, it'll be ok?



If the G2 has a Nitrolon head/bezel assembly, maximum output for your light without risking overheating the LED module is in the Malkoff M61*L* range, ~120 lumens or so.

If it has an *aluminum Z44 head-bezel assembly *(more common with the SF G2 LED versions), the light will handle outputs of up to ~200 lumens or so. Gene Malkoff has stated that the full-power Malkoff M60/M61's should be OK in a G2 configured like that (i.e. w/ the aluminum Z44), but I'm pretty conservative so I'd consider that to be borderline. The Malkoff M61's run a touch cooler than the older M60's, so an M61 with a single 17670 LiIon would be about the maximum that I'd consider.

Again, if you don't want to push it with regards to heat, a Malkoff M61L would be a near-perfect module for the G2, ~120 lumens for more than 4 hours. (IIRC PoliceScannerMan got ~10 hours of runtime from the M61L and two CR123's when the module first came out.) Far far far better than the original SF P60LED module from Surefire - more lumens, more runtime, greater reliability, greater resale value, and less heat.
If I had a dollar for every SF G2 out there with a Malkoff 'L' or 'LL' in it, I wouldn't have to be here on CPF at 6:AM on a Sunday morning, lol. ;-)
Best of luck, :wave:


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## Justin Case (Nov 18, 2012)

The original SF P60LED drop-in essentially had the same form factor as the common Chinese P60 drop-ins. Thus, I would assume that the heat sinking and thermal transfer characteristics are sufficient as long as you run the drop-in lightly enough.

The original SF drop-in was spec'ed at 80 lumens and I believe it used a Seoul P4 LED (probably a T bin). So most likely, it was driven at 350mA. Forward voltage at that drive current, based on the datasheet, is about 3.25V. So power draw is about 1.1W.

If you take a modern LED like an XP-G2 or XM-L, then you can get around 130-150 lumens at 350mA drive. The XP-G2 Vf is spec'ed at 2.8V, or 1.0W. So you can get ~1.5x-2X the lumens at 10% less power draw.

So if you like to do some moderate tinkering, I'd look for a cheap Chinese XP-G2 drop-in, or get some old Cree XR-E drop-in for a dollar and replace the emitter with an XP-G, XP-G2, or XM-L. I'd also either mod the driver (depending on what the driver is) or also get a $2 AX2002-based buck driver and change out the sense resistor to the appropriate value to give you 350mA drive. Even simpler, if you go with something like 1x17670 for your battery configuration, then I'd use a 1xAMC7135 driver, which should deliver the 350mA drive desired.


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## ikeyballz (Nov 19, 2012)

thanks guys! I threw some cash down for a P61LL and a pair of 17670s. I'm hoping the 100 lumen rating it has is at lesat 80% accurate - 80L for 8-10 hours sounds pretty good. I do plan on keeping the nitrolon body and heady for now. I'll probably get the upgrade bug and purchase a P61/61L + Z44 head...when my bank account recovers from these purchases. I'm also probably going to end up picking up a mcgizmo switch assembly unless theres some way I can purchase the G2X Pro clicky switch? I checked SF's site and they don't seem to have that as an option to purchase...


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## Kestrel (Nov 19, 2012)

Enjoy the Malkoff, you'll find that if you do end up selling any of them, they will retain their resale value better than most of the LED dropins. 17670's are also a good choice as well since they have considerably more energy than a 2xRCR123 configuration of the same length. I would expect that you will get something like 15+ hours of semi-regulated runtime (i.e. flat to slightly declining output) from a single 17670 although I can't be certain of the exact duration - I've never heard anybody complain about the runtime from an 'LL' yet ... 

Edit: When you do get a full-power M61, you will find that the 'LL' makes for a nearly perfect 'backup/emergency' configuration, providing enough useful runtime to get through most of the adverse events nowadays ...


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## ikeyballz (Nov 19, 2012)

Thanks for the help Kestrel!

I figured since this will be a car light with close proximity work too bright is bad anyway. I remember having to turn down my quark X a few times from the max settings while working on my car recently. Thats actually why I started looking for a "car light" - I got _maybe_ one hour of runtime on the Quark AA-X (one AA body mod!) while working on a friends car. Went through two batteries. Really annoying to fumble for batteries when your hands are all greasy! 





Kestrel said:


> Enjoy the Malkoff, you'll find that if you do end up selling any of them, they will retain their resale value better than most of the LED dropins. 17670's are also a good choice as well since they have considerably more energy than a 2xRCR123 configuration of the same length. I would expect that you will get something like 15+ hours of semi-regulated runtime (i.e. flat to slightly declining output) from a single 17670 although I can't be certain of the exact duration - I've never heard anybody complain about the runtime from an 'LL' yet ...
> 
> Edit: When you do get a full-power M61, you will find that the 'LL' makes for a nearly perfect 'backup/emergency' configuration, providing enough useful runtime to get through most of the adverse events nowadays ...


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## RMR (Nov 19, 2012)

Kestrel,
This is great information you've provided. I'm new to the forum and enjoying reading your posts. 

I'm in a similar dilemma. My SF G2 stopped working a couple of years ago. I bought a cheap LED conversion off e-bay which didn't work...of course I shouldn't be surprised. 

How can I possibly test my light to see if it works (it could be that bulb went out after being knocked around or something), other than ordering a new bulb, of course?

I'm a newbie here so any info is appreciated...and if I asked a stupid question I'll expect to hear about it.

Respectfully,

RMR


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## Quest4fire (Nov 20, 2012)

ikeyballz said:


> thanks guys! I threw some cash down for a P61LL and a pair of 17670s. I'm hoping the 100 lumen rating it has is at lesat 80% accurate - 80L for 8-10 hours sounds pretty good. I do plan on keeping the nitrolon body and heady for now. I'll probably get the upgrade bug and purchase a P61/61L + Z44 head...when my bank account recovers from these purchases. I'm also probably going to end up picking up a mcgizmo switch assembly unless theres some way I can purchase the G2X Pro clicky switch? I checked SF's site and they don't seem to have that as an option to purchase...



Sounds like Gene has yet another satisfied customer. Enjoy ikeyballz!



> I'm in a similar dilemma. My SF G2 stopped working a couple of years ago. I bought a cheap LED conversion off e-bay which didn't work...of course I shouldn't be surprised.



Some of those original Chinese incan replacement LED drop-ins for SF lights were not fitted well for the G2. I had to fiddle with the fit to get good contact with mine. Remember you need both the center spring for the battery pos. contact, and the outer spring that completes the circuit between the battery tube insert and the aluminum drop-in body. Use jumper wires to see if you can get the drop-in to work outside the flashlight. If it works, it's a contact issue with the G2. If not, see if you can pry the driver out of the pill. Check for loose/disconnected wires. If you don't feel comfortable tinkering with the drop-in, there are plenty of CPF'ers who would be glad to look at it for you. Good luck RMR.


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## Yoda4561 (Nov 20, 2012)

One thing about the M60's m61's in G2 bodies. Because there's only a thin bit of aluminum tube to contact the dropin's negative terminal (the brass body of the dropin) sometimes you need to crank the head down a bit tighter than you would with the P60's with outer springs. There will often be a 1mm or so gap between the head and the body. If you take a fine file and carefully bevel the edge of the bottom of the dropin this will fix both problems. This isn't a necessary fix but it makes me feel better  If you choose to do this check the fit first in case it happens to be perfect, and remove as little material as possible if you go ahead and bevel the bottom. It's almost just a deburring. I run an M60 WLF/17670 in my yellow G2, having been a flashaholic since before I could walk I can safely say it's been my favorite lighting tool out of all the ones I've ever used. The only thing that would make it better at this point is a mclicky and a new window. Note to self: Surefire hardcoated lexan windows are not immune to brake cleaner.


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## Kestrel (Nov 20, 2012)

RMR said:


> Kestrel,
> This is great information you've provided. I'm new to the forum and enjoying reading your posts.
> 
> I'm in a similar dilemma. My SF G2 stopped working a couple of years ago. I bought a cheap LED conversion off e-bay which didn't work...of course I shouldn't be surprised.
> ...


Hello RMR, thank you for the kind words.  I confess that I am not an expert in the off-brand LED modules, but the issue I come across the most often is one of electrical connection - they are most often not an optimum fit for SureFire hosts (SureFire hosts being a topic I am rather well familiar with) as these inexpensive modules have been made for the off-brand imported "compatible" flashlights instead. The SureFire G2 is more problematic than the other SureFires in this regard, with only its inner sleeve being electrically conducting.

There are numerous solutions for the electrial connectivity issue that have been posted in CPF (some of which here in this thread), but my favorite solution is to just buy a truely SureFire-compatible LED module (Malkoff and Nailbender being the most common) and get on with using a higher quality product that was made closer to home. If and when you sell a high-quality LED module, you will find that they will retain a much higher resale value compared to many of the imported products. For example, I have bought and sold many used Malkoff modules (and a few OR/TorchLab/Moddoo triples) by now; the ones that I have sold have yielded at least equal or even more than my initial 'used' cost. This can be months or even years after their initial purchase.

Hope this helps,


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## ikeyballz (Nov 24, 2012)

update: I got the G2 in...turns out it was the newer version with the aluminum head! Guess I should've just gone for the M61L instead of the M61LL! Anyway, I threw the M61LL in with a couple of panasonic CR123s - Its just as high as a quark on "hi" and if the runtime graphs/thigns I've been reading are any indication I won't have to swap batteries for a looooong time. I'm going to update this post as soon as I can get a good runtime til protection cuts in.


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## ikeyballz (Nov 24, 2012)

update update: Ran it on a just off the charger AW 17670 last night. Ran for 10 hours straight with no noticeable drop in output (to my eyes), and then I gave up. I'll recharge and run the test again one day, but damn 10 hours is way more than necessary for any light. I love it!

The tint is a bit greenish though, probably a function of how underdriven the LED is. I'm not complaining about it the hotspot is still nice and white-ish and after i threw on some diffuser film, I have a beautiful mechanics light: decently bright (going to estimate 80ish lumens?), no hotspot to blind you with reflections, and a nice bite-able surface in the back!

Also, I thought I'd hate the momentary on/twist constant on switch but its actually grown on me. Its idiot-proof and simple enough to master. I hate how I cant clean the negative contact on the switch side though...


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## Bauer (Nov 27, 2012)

*18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*

I am trying to find something that will work good with my light. I now know the ultrafire 16340's do not work. 

What would be my best bet to get full power out of the M60 and will fit in a G2? I have heard some 18650's will not fit the G2 body, but they will slowly dim until dead opposed to the 17670's just cutting off after about an hour or so. 

Full brightness is desired with a runtime of at least an hour.


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## Erzengel (Nov 27, 2012)

*Re: 18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*

I'm afraid, the M60 will be too hot for the G2. Do You need the throwy beam of the M60? If no, i recommend using a M61L, it will be much cooler. The biggest electronic between the M60 and M61 is, that the M60 drops out of regulation at 3.8V and therefore it won't be regulated on a single cell. The M61 stays in regulation until the voltage drops below 3.4V, so it will also work regulated with a single cell (maybe not with 16340s in the strong versions).
To sum it up: If You need the throwy beam of the M60, get a metal host and use it with two good protected 16340 cells. If You prefer the floodier general purpose beam of the XP-G in the M61, sell Your M60 and get a M61. It will run on a single cell. If You want to run a Malkoff in a G2 (with the metal bezel), get a lower output drop in.


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## Quest4fire (Nov 27, 2012)

!0 hours is outstanding! More than enough time for a good day's wrenching. I would still try something like this though. That way you still have both hands free to work, your light doesn't get greasy from handling and you don't have to brush your teeth with *Gojo*.


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## Kestrel (Nov 27, 2012)

*Re: 18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*



Bauer said:


> I am trying to find something that will work good with my light. I now know the ultrafire 16340's do not work.
> 
> What would be my best bet to get full power out of the M60 and will fit in a G2? I have heard some 18650's will not fit the G2 body, but they will slowly dim until dead opposed to the 17670's just cutting off after about an hour or so.
> 
> Full brightness is desired with a runtime of at least an hour.


Hello Bauer,

I have merged your thread with a currently-running thread that overlaps your topic pretty well (i.e. LiIon cell types for the SF G2's).
There is a lot of good info in this thread that may be of assistance.

Best regards,


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## Yoda4561 (Nov 27, 2012)

*Re: 18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*

Bauer, there are no 18650's in existence that will fit a G2's battery tube. Even some 17670's can be tight.


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## Erzengel (Nov 28, 2012)

*Re: 18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*

I run my G2L with a M61 and a protected Sanyo 16650 cell. This is a very nice combination, the 16650 have ca. 40% more capacity than the 17670 cells.


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## Yoda4561 (Nov 28, 2012)

*Re: 18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*

Those new 16650's sound nice. Glad to hear they're updating something smaller than the 18mm cells. Whenever my 17670's start dying I'm glad there's going to be something better out.


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## surgicalshot (Jun 23, 2013)

*Re: 18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*

Does a 17670 work with the incandescent bulb of a g2? I have good led lights I like the color if the incan I carry two lights and one is led that I rotate and the other incan g2.


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## Norm (Jun 23, 2013)

*Re: 18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*

The battery Voltage will be too low using a 17670, 17670 3.8V 2 X CR123 = 6V.


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## surgicalshot (Jun 23, 2013)

*Re: 18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*

So are there any rechargable options for me


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## Yoda4561 (Jun 24, 2013)

*Re: 18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*

It will light up but the voltage is way too low, it'll be a dim orange and the halogen cycle won't work, shortening bulb life drastically. If you want to continue using an incan bulb go with a surefire P90 and two 16340 IMR batteries or a lumens factory 3.7v P60 using a 17670 or one of the newer 16650 batteries .


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## surgicalshot (Jun 24, 2013)

*Re: 18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*

Won't the 16340's be to high voltage?


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## cland72 (Jun 24, 2013)

*Re: 18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*



surgicalshot said:


> So are there any rechargable options for me



Try sourcing a high CRI LED drop in - I'd recommend a Malkoff M61L or M61LL 219. You can run them on primaries or rechargeables so long as you're within the operating voltage specs.


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## cland72 (Jun 24, 2013)

*Re: 18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*



surgicalshot said:


> Won't the 16340's be to high voltage?



Not if you run them with a P90 lamp. 

They will blow the stock P60.


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## surgicalshot (Jun 25, 2013)

*Re: 18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*



cland72 said:


> Not if you run them with a P90 lamp.
> 
> They will blow the stock P60.




Ok I looked up the p90 and that is a 9volt lamp intended for three primary 123's. So if I get that lamp and use the two 3.7 volt rechargeables that lamp will run at full power?


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## cland72 (Jun 25, 2013)

*Re: 18650 , 17670 or rcr123 for G2 w/ M60*



surgicalshot said:


> Ok I looked up the p90 and that is a 9volt lamp intended for three primary 123's. So if I get that lamp and use the two 3.7 volt rechargeables that lamp will run at full power?



Correct. You won't get very long runtime on two 16340's, but it will work just fine.


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## ElectronGuru (Jun 25, 2013)

Just note that G3 (native G for P90s), come with Pyrex lenses. The plastic lens on the G2 may not like the higher heat levels.


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## surgicalshot (Jun 25, 2013)

ElectronGuru said:


> Just note that G3 (native G for P90s), come with Pyrex lenses. The plastic lens on the G2 may not like the higher heat levels.



Yes I have already ordered a solarforce head. Next question I was reading about the 16340's and there are some charger issues I have a nitecore intellie charger it should charge them fine right? And what I kind of run times should I expect? Just ball park times are ok


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## ElectronGuru (Jun 26, 2013)

Runtime won't be pretty. CRs have amazing capacity, on the order of 3x rechargeables of the same size. Then your boosting amp draw quite a bit. I would expect a runtime loss of as much as two thirds.


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## cland72 (Jun 26, 2013)

surgicalshot said:


> And what I kind of run times should I expect? Just ball park times are ok



My guess? 20 minutes

750ma cells, with (I'm assuming) a 2A draw from the P90, means you will get less than a half hour.


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## azglocker (Jul 11, 2013)

*upgrade an old g2*

Hey guys, long time lurker and finally a registered member. I have a old 80 lumen surefire g2 and I'd love to hear what you guys think are some good upgrades for it. I would prefer to stay under $60 and I'm also buying some 18650 cells for my pro-tac 2L. 

I would like a bit of a spot but it doesn't need to be extreme and I'd like to be around 100-150 lumen so it remains easy on batteries. 

size isn't an issue, if the bezel extends for any reason that's fine. it's belt carried. 

needing led/bezel only. Light is sporting a ultrafire clicky switch.


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## cland72 (Jul 11, 2013)

*Re: upgrade an old g2*

I'd recommend a Malkoff M61 L in whichever tint you prefer. That will deliver between 150-175 lumens (warm-cool) and 5 hours of regulated run time, with a taper as voltage decreases after 5 hours.

Check out Malkoff Devices, Illumination Supply, and Oveready.


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## Kestrel (Jul 11, 2013)

*Re: upgrade an old g2*

Hello azglocker, :welcome:

Many folks here will agree with the M61L recommendation; that specific module was pretty much designed for the SF G2.
Malkoff modules are built for the long haul and most folks are very satisfied with theirs.

The easiest ones to find will be the standard 'cool tint' versions but there are also 'warm' as well as 'neutral' versions (my favorite BTW). 
The SF G2 that my wife has in her carry bag contains a Malkoff M61LN and I think it's a nearly-perfect setup. Best of luck,


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## Diosces (Feb 26, 2019)

Hi,
Was hoping someone could offer some guidance, I ordered the M3 head from Solarforce and just received it. It's not working in my Surefire G2. I have the head screwed in fully however it appears the outer spring contact is a bit too large in diameter to contact the circumferential body contact. I sent Solarforce a message but curious if anyone else experienced something like this.


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## Bullzeyebill (Feb 27, 2019)

I approved your bump post on an old thread. Copy this post and start a new thread with this question. Closing this one.


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