# Ra Clicky + High CRI led ***Done w/Pics***



## discoverEDC (Dec 3, 2008)

This Friday my brand new Ra Clicky will be going under the soldering iron... I like the new high CRI Seoul emitters and I'm willing to loose total output for better color rendering. I have finally adapated to the 4000 CCT as well. Wish me luck on a successful operation.

Walt


Operation complete and the patient is doing fine :naughty:

A couple of notes: As you will notice from the beamshots the output drops. The increase in color rendering was worth it to me. I await higher output high CRI emitters in the future.
Additionally, chances are good that you will destroy the emitter that came with the light if you try this :green: The emitter is almost force fit or press fit into a pocket that sits on top of the heatsink with thermal paste under it. The force of the press fit is such that it is very hard to get out. Also, I was very reluctant to scratch the anno under the emitter by prying.

Pics follow, enjoy:
































Regards,
Walt


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## Kid9P (Dec 3, 2008)

*Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led*

Man, you got some BIG ONES buddy 

BEST OF LUCK on the mod.
Make sure to take lots of pics of the process for us :thumbsup:


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## orcinus (Dec 3, 2008)

*Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led*



discoverEDC said:


> I like the new high CRI Seoul emitters...



Wha? Where? When? How? Cost?
Did i miss something? :duh2:

*Edit:* Nvm, found it. How exactly do you plan on recalibrating your Clicky? They've got completely different Vf and a much lower forward current. Not to mention the completely different optical properties and beam angle.


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## tebore (Dec 3, 2008)

*Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led*

I take it he's not going to recalibrate it. 

You're gonna document your every step in big and clear pictures right? :naughty:


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## discoverEDC (Dec 3, 2008)

*Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led*

No recalibration  I'm hoping that burst will roughly equal 90-100 lumens. I'm after the color rendering, I don't like standard SSC's anymore. Hopefully in another year or two the high CRI led's will equal today's output.

I've replaced the emitters in an HDS Basic 42 and a Novatac 120P, I don't think this will be any worse. Easier actually, you don't have to remove the light engine. Take the bazel off, unscrew the reflector and the emitter is sitting in the open. Unsolder the leads and pull strait up, only thermal paste under there. Put more thermal paste in the heatsink pocket and set the new emitter in place (observing polarity) and resolder the leads. I'll take pics but I haven't posted them before.

Walt


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## rolling (Dec 4, 2008)

*Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led*

I did put a CRI93 Seoul in a ARC LSH-P. They are great.


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## SaturnNyne (Dec 6, 2008)

*Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led*

Wow, brave indeed. I'll be watching this with great interest. When you're done, could you please stop by my registry with a quick report? I'd like to add a little note on your entry.


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## discoverEDC (Dec 8, 2008)

*Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led*



SaturnNyne said:


> Wow, brave indeed. I'll be watching this with great interest. When you're done, could you please stop by my registry with a quick report? I'd like to add a little note on your entry.


 
SaturnNyne,

Posted at the resistry 

Regards,
Walt


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## luxlover (Dec 8, 2008)

discoverEDC said:


> Operation complete and the patient is doing fine. :naughty:
> 
> A couple of notes: As you will notice from the beamshots, the output drops. The increase in color rendering was worth it to me. I await higher output high CRI emitters in the future.
> 
> ...


Walt,
May I send flowers to the FULLY RECOVERED patient? You know the kind, very colorful for the patient with a new eye! She's looking good! I echo kid9p's comment in post #2, and add that you are a wildman, which is a good thing in this case.

The hotspot beams before and after are lean, mean and clean. Plenty of sidespill, too. Is that the property of the high CRI Seoul, or your exceptional photographic skills? That sidespill will do you well, when you sneak a peek up into your chimney for Santa on 12/24. Remember that Henry recommends a Clicky as an appropriate stocking stuffer!  

With the measly cost of a Seoul emitter of high standing, it is better to kill the emitter than mar the surface of the heatsink. I am wondering if having a bare aluminum heatsink surface is beneficial, when applying a new film of thermal epoxy before inserting the emitter? I would think so!

Good show, Walt. I am not as crazy as you so I will just love my Clicky "just the way she is!"

Jeff


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## tebore (Dec 8, 2008)

luxlover said:


> With the measly cost of a Seoul emitter of high standing, it is better to kill the emitter than mar the surface of the heatsink. I am wondering if having a bare aluminum heatsink surface is beneficial, when applying a new film of thermal epoxy before inserting the emitter? I would think so!



Only if you want to buy a new Clicky. 

If you notice in this design the area where the emitter sits is part of the body. Not a separate module like in the old EDC. The Negative contact is also using the body of the light. 

If you have scratch off the anno and attach the emitter to it you'll short it.

In most cases thermal epoxy has more thermal resistance than a thermal grease/paste. I'd rely on a mechanical retention method combined with thermal grease over an epoxy method.


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## luxlover (Dec 8, 2008)

tebore said:


> Only if you want to buy a new Clicky.
> 
> If you notice, in this design the area where the emitter sits is part of the body, not a separate module like in the old EDC. The negative contact is also using the body of the light.
> 
> ...


tebore,
I am embarrassed to admit I didn't know that the heatsink IS the head housing and that thermal epoxy slows down electron flow more so than thermal paste!  I know that the body IS the negative side of the circuit, but a brain fart had me talk about removing HAIII anyway. This will have an impact on my imminent 2C Mag mod with a Cree MC-E emitter. Thank you for the education.

Jeff


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## tebore (Dec 8, 2008)

luxlover said:


> tebore,
> I am embarrassed to admit I didn't know that the heatsink IS the head housing and that thermal epoxy slows down electron flow more so than thermal paste!  This will have an impact on my imminent 2C Mag mod with a Cree MC-E emitter. Thank you for the education.
> 
> Jeff



It's the same thing with the Twisty. I studied the diagram Henry had up and that's what the screw is for it supplies the negative contact from the threads/head to the module. 

A mod eh Jeff? Finally getting your hands dirty. I believe the MC-E's base is neutral. The P4 & P7 have their bases connected to the positive. 
I'm waiting for my MC-Es to come in to finish my mod on a U2.

Well I should mention that heat transfer is different than the transfer of electrons. Epoxy depending if it's thick enough will be an electrical insulator but still allow heat through. In my years of usage/testing on computer parts and information collected from others who were in to overclocking, most consumer grade thermal epoxy will perform worst than consumer grade thermal grease/paste in transferring heat. Military/professional/aerospace grade stuff is different and is much much expensive and harder to get.


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## luxlover (Dec 8, 2008)

tebore said:


> It's the same thing with the Twisty. I studied the diagram Henry had up and that's what the screw is for it supplies the negative contact from the threads/head to the module.
> 
> A mod eh Jeff? Finally getting your hands dirty. I believe the MC-E's base is neutral. The P4 & P7 have their bases connected to the positive.
> I'm waiting for my MC-Es to come in to finish my mod on a U2.


Your Ra _fun fact_ about the philips head screw just learned me something new. 

My hands will probably not get too dirty due to the mod. My local buddy nein166 will be the principal surgeon, with I as HIS assistant. I am wet behind the ears when it comes to modding, something you already know about me.

I don't think that the U2 will ever die, due to it's Hall effect transistor method of selecting the six outputs. Brilliant idea!

So how about YOU modding your Twisty or Clicky.....or both, since you are CPF's foremost _Henry products modmeister_?

Jeff


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## tebore (Dec 8, 2008)

luxlover said:


> Your Ra _fun fact_ about the philips head screw just learned me something new.
> 
> My hands will probably not get too dirty due to the mod. My local buddy nein166 will be the principal surgeon, with I as HIS assistant. I am wet behind the ears when it comes to modding, something you already know about me.
> 
> ...



When I get the money to be able to buy a Twisty or Clicky I'll tell ya how it goes. 

There's a twisty in the BST I want to snag but alas 
Strangely after seeing the new clicky out I want to get a Twisty even after I told you it's not my cup of tea.


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## luxlover (Dec 8, 2008)

tebore said:


> When I get the money to be able to buy a Twisty or Clicky, I'll tell ya how it goes.
> 
> There's a twisty in the BST I want to snag, but alas!
> Strangely after seeing the new Clicky, I want to get a Twisty even after I told you it's not my cup of tea.


The old "starving student" complaint, huh?

Hey, make up your mind what type of tea you like. You are confusing me!  May I pick your brain, and have you tell me why the "flip-flop" .....*in one word or less*? Is it the extra 1/4" of length of the Clicky, surpassing your EDC upper length limit?


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## SaturnNyne (Dec 8, 2008)

*Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led*



discoverEDC said:


> SaturnNyne,
> Posted at the resistry


Thanks Walt, got your entry updated. Nice job on the swap! Do you have any estimate on the output drop?


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## luxlover (Dec 8, 2008)

*Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led*



SaturnNyne said:


> Thanks Walt, got your entry updated. Nice job on the swap! Do you have any estimate on the output drop?


Me too???


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## luxlover (Dec 8, 2008)

tebore said:


> Well I should mention that heat transfer is different than the transfer of electrons. Epoxy depending if it's thick enough will be an electrical insulator but still allow heat through. In my years of usage/testing on computer parts and information collected from others who were in to overclocking, most consumer grade thermal epoxy will perform worst than consumer grade thermal grease/paste in transferring heat.
> 
> Military/professional/aerospace grade stuff is different and is much much expensive and harder to get.


Thank you for your clarification of MY last lesson, tebore. :twothumbs

Jeff


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## carlsjrman (Dec 8, 2008)

tebore said:


> When I get the money to be able to buy a Twisty or Clicky I'll tell ya how it goes.
> 
> There's a twisty in the BST I want to snag but alas
> Strangely after seeing the new clicky out I want to get a Twisty even after I told you it's not my cup of tea.




Hey tebore, PM me your address and I'll send you my 85-Tr. It's got a few dings, but I think the price is right. 

Don't blame me, it's all goatee's fault.


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## luxlover (Dec 8, 2008)

carlsjrman said:


> Hey tebore, PM me your address and I'll send you my 85-Tr. It's got a few dings, but I think the price is right.
> 
> Don't blame me, it's all goatee's fault.


Ho Ho Ho....CPF style. Nice gesture Carl.

Excuse me while I contact Goatee and see if he wants to be responsible for another act of kindness. :bow:

Jeff
Poor Person


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## tebore (Dec 8, 2008)

carlsjrman said:


> Hey tebore, PM me your address and I'll send you my 85-Tr. It's got a few dings, but I think the price is right.
> 
> Don't blame me, it's all goatee's fault.



I sent you a pm with my info. Am I reading/understanding what you wrote correctly? 

I'm in a state of shock and awe. I love you guys :grouphug::santa:


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## luxlover (Dec 8, 2008)

tebore said:


> I sent you a pm with my info. Am I reading/understanding what you wrote correctly?
> 
> I'm in a state of shock and awe. I love you guys :grouphug::santa:


Ho Ho Ho indeed. :twothumbs Bravo!

Stay in school and don't go to work. It's a jungle out there!


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## Sgt. LED (Dec 8, 2008)

NOW it is a nice light.


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## luxlover (Dec 8, 2008)

Sgt. LED said:


> NOW it is a nice light.


Sarge is a tough customer, alright!


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## discoverEDC (Dec 9, 2008)

*Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led*



SaturnNyne said:


> Thanks Walt, got your entry updated. Nice job on the swap! Do you have any estimate on the output drop?


 

I'm guestimating 90-100 by eyeball. I don't have a lux meter at the moment. My high CRI NovaTac appeared to be as bright as my Twisty 100TW when I had it. The high CRI Clicky appears to be slightly brighter than the NovaTac.

Bravo carlsjrman.

Regards,
Walt


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## NoFair (Dec 9, 2008)

Great mod and great pics! :twothumbs

Maybe I should replace my Seouls in my HDS and PT Apex' 

Maybe get a Ra 140 Cn first... 

*tebore*
Looking forward to seeing your U2 mod. I'm considering doing mine after the Optimus arrives:thumbsup:

Sverre


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## kaichu dento (Dec 9, 2008)

discoverEDC said:


> T
> Operation complete and the patient is doing fine :naughty:
> 
> A couple of notes: As you will notice from the beamshots the output drops. The increase in color rendering was worth it to me. I await higher output high CRI emitters in the future.
> ...


Most definitely looks worth it to me! :thumbsup:


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## StandardBattery (Dec 11, 2008)

:thumbsup: Nice! 

Thanks for the heads up in the other thread. I'm warming up to the new warmer leds as well. I would love the try some with a really good CRI as well. I love my Ott-Lights and the sun. The cool ones have a place as they can sometimes help spot certain things, but high CRI should be the main stay.


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## tebore (Dec 11, 2008)

Henry said that clickies with Warm White LEDs are available via special order.


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## Supreme (Feb 16, 2009)

Hello .new to forum.just got a Ra 140cn and it is too warm a colour,yellow.so I want to change out the emitter.already have a cooler dragon emitter.I treid to unscrew the reflector assembly but no luck getting to come out.is there a special way to unscrew without messing up the threads.please help.
Thanx
Chris


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## luxlover (Feb 16, 2009)

Supreme said:


> Hello .new to forum.just got a Ra 140Cn and it is too warm a colour, yellow. So I want to change out the emitter. I already have a cooler Dragon emitter. I tried to unscrew the reflector assembly, but no luck getting it to come out. Is there a special way to unscrew without messing up the threads. Please help.
> Thanx
> Chris


Welcome to CPF.....OUR WORLD!

I have never had a problem removing my Twisty or Clicky screw-in reflector assembly. Find a wide rubber band, like the one used to hold together two broccoli stalks. If you are right-handed, wrap the band around the exposed thread of the reflector assembly, _making sure not to scuff the reflector on the inside._ While facing the light's front end, grab your light's housing with your left hand, and slowly turn the rubber band in your right hand counterclockwise. Once it budges, remove the band and unscrew it by hand. Again, stay away from the reflector. Do your thing, apply a little fresh lube to the rubber parts and threads and let us know how it works out.

Jeff


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## Supreme (Feb 17, 2009)

luxlover said:


> Welcome to CPF.....OUR WORLD!
> 
> I have never had a problem removing my Twisty or Clicky screw-in reflector assembly. Find a wide rubber band, like the one used to hold together two broccoli stalks. If you are right-handed, wrap the band around the exposed thread of the reflector assembly, _making sure not to scuff the reflector on the inside._ While facing the light's front end, grab your light's housing with your left hand, and slowly turn the rubber band in your right hand counterclockwise. Once it budges, remove the band and unscrew it by hand. Again, stay away from the reflector. Do your thing, apply a little fresh lube to the rubber parts and threads and let us know how it works out.
> 
> Jeff


Thanx Jeff .tried today and had no luck .it must be thread locked.tried the vise grips to a point and won't move at all  .oh well ,I'll have to sell it :mecry:and try another one .hope to get one with a cooler emitter from Henry .
thanx
Chris


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## luxlover (Feb 18, 2009)

Supreme said:


> Thanx Jeff .tried today and had no luck .it must be thread locked. tried the vise grips to a point and won't move at all  . oh well ,I'll have to sell it :mecry:and try another one. hope to get one with a cooler emitter from Henry.
> thanx
> Chris


Not so fast on the selling part, Chris. You may get another dud when you buy the next light. Call Henry using the number on this page..... http://ralights.com/?id=Contact and ask HIS advice. If you convince him that your soldering skills are good, he won't object.

Jeff


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