# Real World Beamshots. D-Mini, DX U2, Ultrafire C2, Liteflux LF1



## StefanFS (Apr 20, 2007)

I took some of my led flashlights out in the woods to see what they are made of. The D-Mini, EYJ U2 from DealExtreme and the Ultrafire C2 seem to be reasonably popular. The Liteflux is not so well known, but it's a personal favourite of mine. Pictures appear in that order D-Mini, EYJ U2, Ultrafire C2 and Liteflux LF1. 

First set is at 15 meters at about shoulder height, like when you stretch out the arm. Second set is at 50 meters slightly above waist height. Exposure time is 8 seconds. The surroundings are very dark, total abscence of artificial light for miles. All lights are stock except the Liteflux which is modded with an SSC P4 U-bin. (The Ultrafire C2 had a defective led so I changed that to a new Cree P4, it does correspond to Lux figures that others have reported so it could be regarded as stock, I think). All flashlights use fresh LiIon 3.7 Volt cells. 18650 for EYJ U2 and C2, 14500 for the Liteflux and RCR123 in the D-Mini.

*Set #1. 15 meters. *The first are for side by side comparison. After comes the individual pictures.































*Set #2. 50 meters.* The first are for side by side comparison. After comes the individual pictures.





























As usual nothing comes near the D-Mini in throw. But the EYJ U2 has awe inspiring amounts of output, it also throws better than the C2. The Liteflux has lots of output, but it doesn't throw very far compared with the bigger lights.






Tint on the D-Mini and Liteflux are superior for visibility with vegetation around. It also shows in the beamshots.

Lumens come from lightbox Lux readings, which obviously are out the lens. A big question mark on total output with the D-Mini, sice it’s almost all throw it’s difficult to get correct readings in a lightbox. My Ultrafire C2 have roughly the same output on 18650, RCR123 and Cr123 primary. Slightly more total output and throw on two RCR123, but I have a hard time seeing any difference without my instruments.

Stefan


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## chrome-addict (Apr 20, 2007)

Great beamshots! I was actually wondering how the D-mini compared to the "U2" & C2. The C2 is supposed to outhrow the U2, but based on your beamshots ...I say the U2 has it.


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## Pumaman (Apr 20, 2007)

Thanks for the useful comparison and pics.

I have a C2 on the way. have you compared output on 3.7v vs 6.0v vs. 7.2v ?
pics not needed, just impressions if available.
thanks


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## chrome-addict (Apr 20, 2007)

Stefan, any chance you have a Coast 7438 Lenser ?


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## Yapo (Apr 20, 2007)

so the U2 and C2 both running on 18650's? because i thought C2 could throw further than the U2...maybe C2 throws furthers on 2x3.6v LIR123's?
But i guess i deeper reflector would catch more light than a wider one...


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## Gunner12 (Apr 20, 2007)

Nice beamshots,:goodjob:

Now, do you have a cheap 2D cell incan or a minimag so you can produce a base beamshot?


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## berto (Apr 21, 2007)

The C2 is much much brighter on 6+ volts.


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## StefanFS (Apr 21, 2007)

Pumaman,
I did measure my C2. Both mA to the led and Lux with 2 x rcr123 3.7 Volt. The difference between RCR123 and 18650 is less than 800 Lux. It has a regulator circuit and the led gets pretty much the same mA regardless of what cells you use. With 18650 the led gets 1.09 A, I measured this when I changed the led. The C2 has a wider reflector not deeper, the C2 have more flood than the EYJ U2.

No, sorry, but I don't have a Coast 7438 Lenser.


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## Yapo (Apr 21, 2007)

From the beamshots i can see that the hotspot of the U2 is a little brighter and also larger than the C2 but the review from http://www.lightreviews.info/ the C2's hotspot is hotter from being more focused but for the overall output the U2 is brighter...the lux values for lights always seem to vary for different people


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## StefanFS (Apr 21, 2007)

Added Lux and ~Lumen~ readings to the first post.

Berto,
My C2 is not very much brighter with 2 x RCR123 3.7 Volt. It's brighter but not noticeable without a Luxmeter, but thats only my opinion.

Yapo,
My C2 also appear to have a brighter hotspot compared to the U2 style on the wall or at short distances. But the C2 hotspot is so much smaller than the U2 style, about 1/3 the size. When you use them side by side at distances over 10-15 meters the U2 wins. The U2 style has a better reflector in my opinion. It is also generally better constructed and have a better quality click switch than the C2. And it's slightly brighter than the C2.

_The C2 has total output that's extreme for a budget light with one emitter, 8360-9070 Lux or 116-126 real Lumen._ That's a lot of light. I measure throw at one meter with a dedicated Lux meter, in the dark. As a control I check sometimes with the Lux meter on my multimeter and against "known" lights. My meters correspond very well on "known" lights with for example Flashlightreviews, both on throw and total output.

Stefan


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## Pumaman (Apr 21, 2007)

thanks stefan


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## Yapo (Apr 21, 2007)

Ditto...thx stefan...i'm still waitin for my C2 to be shipped but i still hope its brighter than urs on 2 rcr123 lol


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## Lobo (Apr 21, 2007)

Very nice pics, Stefan. I love this outdoor beamshots, you really can tell the difference in the performance of the lights, which can be hard on white wall shots. 
Thanks again. :goodjob:


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## Tessaiga (Apr 21, 2007)

Guys, you should try this one out for size..

http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Prod...spx?TranID=1254

Really intense hotspot..

I have a DX U2 and this one just simply out throws it easily.. to give a comparison.. it is just bested by a bit by a 9P running a P90 bulb with fresh 123As..


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## Strauss (Apr 21, 2007)

Very nice job with your review. Looks like all your output figures are pretty accurate :goodjob: I also have a C2 on the way, figured it was a good buy for the money....it will make a good "beater" light for me


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## 2xTrinity (Apr 21, 2007)

I do notice a difference in brightness between CR123 and 18650 on C2. I think one issue is state of charge -- the C2 gradually gets dimmer as the 18650 reaches a lower state of charge (I think Kai's graph shows it running at 75% brightness for a lot of the runtime). Right now I modded my C2 with a forward clicky and I really only use it for short bursts much of the time (ie reading signs out the in dark, etc). Right now I just have a couple CR123s in there as I want both flat regulation, and shelf-life (I leave it stashed in the car). If I do intend to use it for extended runtime though, I've added a solder blob so that the 18650 will make contact.


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## Minjin (Apr 21, 2007)

I've been following all the threads about the C2 and U2-style pretty closely. It seems to me as though the C2 has a buck converter and the U2-style has a boost converter. That would explain why the U2-style is brighter especially at first because it would be operating in direct drive. And its possible with the C2 when using an 18650 that it shorly drops out of regulation due to low voltage.


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## chrome-addict (Apr 21, 2007)

Tessaiga said:


> Guys, you should try this one out for size..
> 
> http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Prod...spx?TranID=1254
> 
> ...


 
I just keep getting "page cannot be found" ...which model light are you referring to?


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## Minjin (Apr 21, 2007)

chrome-addict said:


> I just keep getting "page cannot be found" ...which model light are you referring to?



Link


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## itch808 (Apr 22, 2007)

Tessaiga said:


> Guys, you should try this one out for size..
> 
> http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Prod...spx?TranID=1254
> 
> ...



That does look nice but the reason I love the DX U2 so much is its large hotspot and huge spill.


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## StefanFS (Apr 22, 2007)

2xTrinity said:


> Right now I modded my C2 with a forward clicky and I really only use it for short bursts much of the time (ie reading signs out the in dark, etc). Right now I just have a couple CR123s in there as I want both flat regulation, and shelf-life (I leave it stashed in the car). If I do intend to use it for extended runtime though, I've added a solder blob so that the 18650 will make contact.


 
Where did you find the forward click switch? I have thought about using a Kroll, but then I would have to drill out the hole in the tailcap. The stock switch bothers me, I don't trust it.
Stefan


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## davenlei (Apr 22, 2007)

From those pictures, it looks like the 'D' mini has only a slight advantage to the 'U2' style DX light in throw. Is what I am seeing correct?


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## Jefff (Apr 22, 2007)

Excellent beam shots and thanks now I am really feeming for my C2 to show up .. And now want to order a U2 style one as well!


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## StefanFS (Apr 22, 2007)

Davenlei,
no, sorry. The D-Mini simply murders the EYJ U2 in throw. The EYJ U2 is better at illuminating a large space, like a warehouse for example. It would be clearer at longer distances. This was "only" 50 meters". In a dark environment the D-Mini puts a good spot at +100 meters, at that distance the EYJ U2 spot is hardly visible. The D-mini is also much higher quality compared to the EYJ U2. When I was setting this up a roe deer came walking on its way to drink in a pond that lies beyond the trees in the first series of photos, they take a shortcut over our lawns. It spooked me so I turned and put the D-mini in its eyes on reflex at maybe 30 meters. Totally blinded the poor creature, it crashed back into the woods in panic and hit a tree and fell down. It won't be back, ever, I guess. That wouldn't work with the EYJ U2.
Stefan


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## davenlei (Apr 22, 2007)

Oh, ok.

Looking at your lumen/lux graphs, yes it would absolutely murder the U2 style. I am surprised that the difference in lumens between overall and throw on the D-mini is only a few lumens. So, is it pretty much a laser beam (all throw and very little sidespill)? Your picture makes it seem as if you have very decent sidespill and is just a little less than the 'U2' style on spil. But again, your graphs do not make it look like that is the case.


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## robm (Apr 22, 2007)

StefanFS,

Should the throw figures be 'square rooted' to give relative throw (see flashlightreviews), rather than divided by a constant?
Throw cannot be measured in lumes 

This would give the D-mini approx 25% more throw than the DX U2 (based on your readings), rather than almost double.


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## 2xTrinity (Apr 23, 2007)

StefanFS said:


> Where did you find the forward click switch? I have thought about using a Kroll, but then I would have to drill out the hole in the tailcap. The stock switch bothers me, I don't trust it.
> Stefan


I installed the McClicky from Sandwich Shoppe (just the component, not an entire tailcap). Made electrical contact between the part and the body of the light with a properly sized washer, added some electrical tape to insulate where needed, and cut the spring down a little bit. When my HA-III version of the C2 comes in from Kai I will move the switch into the new one. I plan to modify my old C2 to use a Surplus Shed lens for extreme throw (the big fat head is ideal for that).



> Should the throw figures be 'square rooted' to give relative throw (see flashlightreviews), rather than divided by a constant?
> Throw cannot be measured in lumes


The amount of lumens that get collimated into the main beam is certainly significant. If two lights have the same "lux" readings for throw, but one of them is projecting a huge amount of light at a wider angle, that one will be able to light up a much wider circle at some given distance. IMHO the amount of "collimated" lumens is more significant than total out the front lumens due to spill -- which is really only useful up close.


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## StefanFS (Apr 23, 2007)

robm said:


> StefanFS,
> 
> Should the throw figures be 'square rooted' to give relative throw (see flashlightreviews), rather than divided by a constant?
> Throw cannot be measured in lumes
> ...


 
You are correct of course. Measuring throw in Lumens is useless, usually I only bother with Lux. But this time I did it anyway. Many people are so fixated on Lumens. Guess I was tired.

davenlei,
I find that it is difficult to measure the D-Mini correctly in a lightbox with its intense throw. I suspect it has more total ouput, but that would require an integrating sphere.
Stefan


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## techwg (Aug 30, 2007)

I thought the C2 has much more throw than the P3D, and from your specs of output and throw its worse than the P3D, i have been led that its 5000-6000 lux throw ? I have a C2 on the way because its toated as being better beam than the P3D


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## EV_007 (Aug 31, 2007)

Nice shots. Gotta love outdoor beamshots.


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## woodrow (Sep 2, 2007)

Stefan, great breashots/review as always. It is nice to see the D-mini and C2 at mid range distances where I think they really excell. Thanks again.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 9, 2007)

Hi Stefan, nice review - can't believe I missed it earlier.

I can see why you like your SSC-modded LF1. It's a nice light - I did the same mod to mine some time ago. In fact, I've just recently posted a review comparing mine to the new LF5 SSC:
Liteflux LF5 vs. LF1 SSC-mod: BEAMSHOTS and RUNTIMES 

For those you who don't have a LF1 to mod, the new Luma 301 SSC is actually very similar in beam pattern, overall output, and runtimes to a LF1-SSC mod.

:thumbsup:


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## StefanFS (Sep 9, 2007)

selfbuilt said:


> Hi Stefan, nice review - can't believe I missed it earlier.
> 
> I can see why you like your SSC-modded LF1. It's a nice light - I did the same mod to mine some time ago. In fact, I've just recently posted a review comparing mine to the new LF5 SSC:
> Liteflux LF5 vs. LF1 SSC-mod: BEAMSHOTS and RUNTIMES
> ...


 
I have yet to find a pocket light for AA that exceeds the quality and feel of the Liteflux LF1, I got two of them last summer. One is in reserve should something dramatic happen to my edc LF1. Not one problem during over a year of everyday use. The forward switch is the best I've ever used, with the op alu reflector it's a wall of light with a light tap on the switch. My edc LF1 has taken enormous amounts of abuse and it looks like new. When the V-bin SSC are out I'll swap emitter again.
Stefan


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## selfbuilt (Sep 10, 2007)

StefanFS said:


> The forward switch is the best I've ever used, with the op alu reflector it's a wall of light with a light tap on the switch. My edc LF1 has taken enormous amounts of abuse and it looks like new. When the V-bin SSC are out I'll swap emitter again.


I hear you - I'm likely to do V-bin swap as well, once they are available. As I mentioned in my review, this well made light is a pleasure to mod: excellent quality construction, easy access to the emitter. Didn't know about the op alum reflector though ...

Although I had taken the stock LF1 with me on a few trips, I generally favoured my L2T (followed by L2DCE) due to their infinitely better runtime on low in 2AA form. A strange thing with the LF1 - in 1AA form you get half the output but equivalent runtime to the L1T (which is pretty good, given the resistor), but in 2AA you get half the output and less than a quarter the runtime of the L2T. Somehow, that offend my sense of runtime fairness  

But with SSC mod, the LF1 took on a whole new usefulness. I'm a big fan of the SSC beam pattern for up close tasks (which is why I now EDC the Jet-u over the L0DCE, despite the lower runtimes). The Rex 2.1 is my current AA EDC, since I like its throw and runtime on 14500. 

But I wouldn't hesitate to recomend a SSC-moded LF1. Too bad the LF5 has poorer alkaline runtimes and narrow spill beam.


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## StefanFS (Sep 12, 2007)

selfbuilt said:


> I hear you - I'm likely to do V-bin swap as well, once they are available. As I mentioned in my review, this well made light is a pleasure to mod: excellent quality construction, easy access to the emitter. Didn't know about the op alum reflector though ...
> But with SSC mod, the LF1 took on a whole new usefulness.


 
I started this thread in April 2007, since then both the Ultrafire C2 and the EYJ U2 has been modded beyond recognition. The C2 is now an allround light for my parents running on one AA and a multimode driver from user RV7. The EYJ U2 has been cut down and modded with an AMC7135 four mode driver (from a K**dom**n light I shredded) and an Cree Q2, now it lives in our car loaded with two primary CR123 cells. The D-mini has also suffered extensive modding. In it's latest iteration it has an Cree Q5 WG led and the nice 1A multimode driver DX and others sell. The only flashlight in this collection that was good enough to keep in it's original config (save the emitter swap) was the Liteflux LF1. 
Stefan


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