# Triple XML Yard Sweeper Mag 2C 3 mode with 3x IMR 22430



## ma_sha1 (Mar 10, 2011)

****A famous modder once said, it's not DONE until it's done on the 2C!****

My previous "Yard Sweeper" was done on Triple SST-50.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...e-SST-50-yard-Sweeper-Turbo-Tri-Copper-mag-2D

I've also done a Turbo II will copper heat sink tube runs down the whole body & a Triple XML on Mag 3C with 4 Amp x3 "Nuke" mode. They are great lights but both 2D & 3C are a bit too big for my liking. I really want to make them into Mag 2C.

Triple XMLs are mounted on Copper heat sink, wired up with 8x7135 Shinning beam 
2.8A driver using the Download Multilux method. Power is supplied with 3 IMR, more on that later. 

The Volage over the 7135 boards is too high & the chip is burning hot instantly, so I tested adding a inline power resistor, tried 0.1, 0.15, 0.22 & 0.33 Ohm resistors before finally settled down to 0.33 Ohm 7W power resistor. Which still provide 2.8A on high but the driver no longer get hot as when there's no resistor or lower resistors.








The 22430 IMR required boring of tail cap to fit. 3 of them fit perfectly in Mag 2C.
They are 1400 mAH capacity, more than 2x the capacity of AW IMR 123.












In door beam shots. The beam is very smooth, usually multileds help each otrher to smooth out the beam. 




Indoor on HI, auto exposure. This is not wall of light, it throws like SST-90 in rebel SMO, with a more smooth beam & larger hot spot (SST-90 in rebel smo always has slight donut effect, not very obvious but it's always there, never perfect). This beam is perfect.




Out door beam shots are with two other multi led lights I have on hand:
Left: The legendary Moby **** by LED Zaplin, 9xR2, 1 Amp x9.
Middle: DX 5xR2 drop in, 800mAx5. Right, Triple XML 2.8A x3. 




First up, 5xR2, it throws very well, but "only" 1200 lumens is a bit short in spill front.




2nd up: Moby **** 9xR2 on 3" big Turbo head:




Last but not least, Triple XML Mag 2C:





*Down Load's original Triple P7 Multipux wiring method for reference only:*
To adopt for triple XML use (much lower vf. than P7), a resistor much be added inline.


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## mvyrmnd (Mar 11, 2011)

Once again, very nice work!


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## ma_sha1 (Mar 11, 2011)

Thanks mate, still Nuking around?


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## ^Gurthang (Mar 11, 2011)

Sha,

Thats another fine looking [email protected] mod.... how hot does that big load resistor get? BTW, the snow looks rather thin in your backyard, you been melting it w/ your lights???


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## ma_sha1 (Mar 11, 2011)

^Gurthang said:


> Sha,
> Thats another fine looking [email protected] mod.... how hot does that big load resistor get?



Thanks! The resistor does get pretty hot (too hot to touch after a while), but well within the spec of it's ability. At 2.8Amp, the Watts burned at the resistor (0.33 Ohm) can be calculated by Ohm's law as such: watts(heat) =2.8x2.8x0.33 =2.6W of heat. The resistor is designed to handle up to 7W of heat, so that's no problems. One can use 0.33 Ohm/5W resistor as well in this case. 

However, imagine that this set-up w/o resistor, the 7135 board will still limit current to 2.8Amp & will attempt to burn off the extra 2.6W of heat right on the circuit, which means  the Shinning Beam 2.8A board. 

Down load's multilux method, very smart idea by the way, was first used on Triple P7 with 3x18650, the Higher Vf of P7 combined with more Voltage drop from Li-ion (Not IMR) means the 7135 board didn't have to work as hard to burn off as much heat. With Triple XML, the resistor will be required to adopt his set-up. 



^Gurthang said:


> Sha,
> BTW, the snow looks rather thin in your backyard, you been melting it w/ your lights???


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## mvyrmnd (Mar 11, 2011)

ma_sha1 said:


> Thanks mate, still Nuking around?


 
It's become my "around the house" light. Being able to turn it down is magic. Being able to light the entire yard with a 2 sec button hold is even better!

I don't suppose I'd be able to send it back to you for a neutral emitter swap when they become available? I've become one of those insufferable tint snobs recently


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## ma_sha1 (Mar 11, 2011)

duplication deleted


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## ma_sha1 (Mar 11, 2011)

mvyrmnd said:


> It's become my "around the house" light. Being able to turn it down is magic. Being able to light the entire yard with a 2 sec button hold is even better!


 
Glad that you are enjoying it! 



mvyrmnd said:


> I don't suppose I'd be able to send it back to you for a neutral emitter swap when they become available? I've become one of those insufferable tint snobs recently


 
Sorry, man, I don't do any kind of services including custom mod services or upgrade services. But I know what you mean, Neutral is my fav. tint too. Cutter didn't have them, otherwise I would have picked it. There was some tint closer to neutral to pick but not on the black locus line & could easily get into a pee green trap as the tint box is pretty wide. 

At least, the tint I picked is right the "black locus", could have been worse, imagine waving around 4000 lumen worth of the infamous quark pee green? :sick2:


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## Techjunkie (Mar 13, 2011)

Nice work man. The +ve in and +ve out on the 7135 drivers are the same, so when you use the multi-LED method, you can wire all three in series with thick wire and run a thin wire to power the driver from between the second and third LEDs. I did that on my recent triple SST-50 build and it worked like a charm. Both ways work, but that way saves you the trouble of soldering a thick wire to the +ve "out" of the regulator and it's one less wire poking though the heatsink to the LED MCPCBs.

Hey, where are you getting the IMR sub-C's? Are those toolpack batteries or have you found a supplier of them tab-free? (Nice find.)


Also... I'm deadly curious to know, what's your homebrew method for boring the C tailcap to fit the 22mm diameter cell? (Or did you get a lathe?)


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## mvyrmnd (Mar 13, 2011)

ma_sha1 said:


> Glad that you are enjoying it!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
That's ok. I've seen your sig line. I figured I could get away with asking just once...

I agree about the green though!


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## mvyrmnd (Mar 13, 2011)

Duplicate...


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## ma_sha1 (Mar 13, 2011)

Techjunkie said:


> Hey, where are you getting the IMR sub-C's? Are those toolpack batteries or have you found a supplier of them tab-free? (Nice find.)
> 
> 
> Also... I'm deadly curious to know, what's your homebrew method for boring the C tailcap to fit the 22mm diameter cell? (Or did you get a lathe?)



I bought the IMR 22430 directly from China battery manufacture, I have listed a few on MP for sale. I think it should be able t power your pool man's FM1909 in a 2C. 
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?248596-FS-IMR-22430-Batteries

As for the tail cap boring, No lathe, Remember this picture? from my DIY SST-90 1D mod, I have since "improved" this method & mounted the drill on the bench & upgraded the drill bits attachments to carbide. The tail cap gets too hot to touch, just drop it to into a bowl of cold water & then carry on. Took me about 20 min. 





DIY Mag 1D SST-90 Thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?273748-DIY-Cut-Mag-1.5D-SST-90-2000-Lumen-Rebel-Mag-Deep-SMO-gt-50-000-lux-1-meter!

Alternatively, I suspect this FM deep & wide Mag C tail cap might work but I don't know for sure. :
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?215997-Wide-Deep-2x18650-M*g-C-Tail-cap


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## upek (Mar 13, 2011)

Why AMC7135 chips get burn? Each chip can handle 0,7w of power - it means 5,6w of power - but thesse chips need good heatsinking. You can also add one or two AMC7135 (higher current - higher vf) 
On resistor you have lower runtime on full power


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## ma_sha1 (Mar 13, 2011)

7135 is "smart resistor", it burns excess voltage as heat off to manage 2.8A to pass, 
the same amount of heat is burned by either 7135 or in my case , the additional power resistor.

It makes no difference in run time. Only where the excess heat is disposed off. 
It can be heat sinked w/o resistor, but it'll take quite a bit heat sinking. I don't think it's as safe as the external resistor.


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## wechnivag (Mar 14, 2011)

I'm curious which reflector are you using for this triple setup? Any pictures of how it is shimmed or installed? Thanks!!


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## ma_sha1 (Mar 14, 2011)

The reflector is DX 11922, the SMO version Tri Cree. Which I've used for all my Yard Sweeper mods, 
Tr-MCE, Tri-SST & Tri XML. Works well on all these leds. Throws well, not wall of light type. 
& spots blends into one. 

I have posted the *before & after reflector shot *in one of my yard sweeper posts, can't find it but to fit in mag C, one just need to grind down the side rim by 1-2 mm or so, it'll slide right in. Don't over do it, you want it to hand-on to the tapered inside edge of mag head, so it's suspended above the leds by a hair. 

It fits better in Mag C than mag D, Mag C head has more room. For Mag D, I had to grind down the top surface too to make it fit. The mag D head inside "shelf" sits up higher.


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## liteFOB (Sep 29, 2011)

Hello,

I'm new to light modding and with your tri-XM-L where did you put that 0.33 Ohm 7W power resistor in line? or does it matter where you put it? I was actually interested in replicating this light.

Thanks.


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## cdrake261 (Sep 30, 2011)

I love ready these quality build threads, I feel like I learn a lot!


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## ma_sha1 (Sep 30, 2011)

liteFOB said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm new to light modding and with your tri-XM-L where did you put that 0.33 Ohm 7W power resistor in line? or does it matter where you put it? I was actually interested in replicating this light.
> 
> Thanks.



The resistor is between battery & driver, you can not put it after the driver.
It stays in the body, above the switch & below the copper heat sink. 

You can replicate this set-up in 3C or 2D running 3x AW IMR 26500, but you won't be able to replicate the 2C set-up, 
there's no place to purchase IMR 22430 battery, I imported a bunch from manufacture in China directly just to make the 2C light. 

I am moving, if you are interested in just buy the light, send me a PM,
I'll give you some extra IMR 22430 batteries if I can still find them.


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## liteFOB (Oct 11, 2011)

ma_sha1 said:


> The resistor is between battery & driver, you can not put it after the driver.
> It stays in the body, above the switch & below the copper heat sink.
> 
> You can replicate this set-up in 3C or 2D running 3x AW IMR 26500, but you won't be able to replicate the 2C set-up,
> ...



Thank you for the reply.

I was wondering what your thoughts are about my to be build, and got a questions maybe you or some expert could answer. I was thinking about doing a 3x Batteryspace 26500 setup possibly with a 2D if not 3D. I don't know much about doing the math to get the right resistor.

Question:
1. Will batteries internal resistance(in general) affect the same resistor differently? Will I need a larger resistor with a less I/R Battery? IE: Lion vs IMR vs Capacitor. Edit: I'm assuming yes.

2. Will the same resistor you use produce a similar result with the BS 26500.

3. Is it possible to build a nuke mode by putting in an additional momentarily button that could bypass the driver so that it's direct driven? (with an inline resistor) Edit: I found the answer by doing some testing.

All help is appreciated


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## liteFOB (Oct 14, 2011)

ma_sha1 said:


> The resistor is between battery & driver, you can not put it after the driver.
> It stays in the body, above the switch & below the copper heat sink.



I'm a little confused about what you said here. Do you mean the resistor is put in after the two LED connected in series and right before the Driver? if the resistor is put in before the first LED wouldn't that limit the current to all the LED's already? or does it matter?


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## ma_sha1 (Oct 14, 2011)

There are 3 places you can put the resistor, between driver neg & battery neg, between driver pos & the two led below it or between the last led below & battery pos. They are all considered in line between driver & battery.


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## freeloader700 (Dec 17, 2012)

ma_sha1 said:


> There are 3 places you can put the resistor, between driver neg & battery neg, between driver pos & the two led below it or between the last led below & battery pos. They are all considered in line between driver & battery.




Where did you end up placing the resistor out of those places?


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