# Help me choose a top notch soldering station!



## Action (Feb 15, 2007)

I've fiddled enought with wimpy soldering irons and while I am no EE or technician, I appreciate using good equipment. I am seriously considering investing in a nice soldering station, something that will last me 10+ years and can do stuff from flashlights to motherboards to automotive, etc. My budget is up to $250, above that I will really need to be convinced. I'm not a production shop, just for hobbys and garage use.

The stations that I am considering are:
Hakko 937
Metcal SP200 or SP800
Weller WD1001
Others?

Quick heatup, good power, consistent tip temp and good ergonomics are my requirements. Less money is always good as well, but please no Radio Shack $10 irons, these are what I am looking to move away from...


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## Monolith (Feb 15, 2007)

Top notch is Metcal. I use a Hakko 936 which is much cheaper. I used to do a lot of audio work and it has never let me down even with silver solders. Plenty of tips available also and can be found for around $85.

For automotive, I would just find a rechargeable or gas powered iron - wouldn't mess with the cords.


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## Action (Feb 15, 2007)

Thanks Monolith!

If you were choosing one, would you choose the Hakko or the Metcal?

This leads into another question.

What would the recommendation be for a gas powered setup for both electronic and some automotive electronics work?


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## Monolith (Feb 15, 2007)

Price no object, I would go with the Metcal. But price is always an object. I don't regret the Hakko at all. The problem with the gas/rechargeable ones for automative is use is that most are not as flexible in adjusting heat range, etc. as a good soldering station. This is usually not a problem with rough automotive use, but can cause problems trying to solder delicate SMT's etc and using various types of solders. I think the Hakko is perfect for starting off and saves you a bundle. I've had mine at least 5 years and I'm not going to upgrade to a Metcal until it dies which won't be anytime soon.

I bought one of the Coleman cold technology irons for remote automotive use (I think I paid $15). It's useful in a pinch but is no match for the Hakko (and tips cost more than the iron itself).


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## Action (Feb 15, 2007)

The Hakko 937 is actually more expensive than the Metcal SP200, the difference that I see between these two models is that the Hakko has some really, really fine temperature control. The Metcal is cheaper and its method of temp control is via tip choice and some internal power supply adjustments.

The Hakko 937 is ~$240
The Metcal SP200 is ~$175 

Have you tried or seen the Weller butane portasol or pyropen tools?


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## macforsale (Feb 15, 2007)

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## Monolith (Feb 15, 2007)

I think a 936 is plenty unless you have something else in mind that you're doing. Part of my audio consisted of building power cords with up to 10 gauge wires and with the right tip, the 936 could handle those jobs. Some of the speaker wire terminals also suck up a lot of heat and I've not had any problems with those as well. I've then soldered smts with the same unit. That's why I'm recommending it. If you've got some extreme soldering situations, then let us know so that we can recommend the right iron.


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## Action (Feb 15, 2007)

Monolith,

So you would recommend going with an ~$85 Hakko 936?

What tips do you recommend?

Any thoughts on a small butane torch setup?

Macforsale,

If you were in the market for a small butane torch setup, what would you get?


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## modamag (Feb 15, 2007)

Weller WD1002 or Metcal MX-500. 
For $10 more you can get a 1002 (85W) instead of 1001 (65W).

I currently have the Metcal MX-500 with a bunch of tips. IMHO it's much better than than my Weller WD2002 (rebadge/newer as WESD51PU I think), but it's really not worth the extra cost. I use both irons on a weekly basis. From time to time I bring out 85W iron for the copper stuff.

If I were to redo my entire setup again and spend < $300. I would buy the following.

1. Alot of small component, SMD, circuitboards work ... Weller WD1002 / ~$280

2. Every day electronics ... Weller WESD51 or Hakko 937
- pretty much the same price range ($150-$200), it just then becomes personal pref.

Good luck,
Jonathan


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## Action (Feb 15, 2007)

modamag,

Have you used the Hakko 936? Would you say that the 937 is quite a bit better than the 936?


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## cy (Feb 15, 2007)

I've got a Metcal MX 500, but use my 1957 Weller purchased for $20 the most. old weller uses a temp controlled at tip design. very quick reaction for SMT work.


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## macforsale (Feb 15, 2007)

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## Doug S (Feb 15, 2007)

I can endorse Metcal. I own several. If money is an object I would go used for any of the generations of Metcals that preceeded the MX500 that are compatable with the RM3E handpiece and tips. These are the tips with part numbers beginning STTC- and are by far the most widely available on EBAY. This is the same handpiece and tip design used by the MX500. The Metcal SP200 or SP800 that you are considering use different handpieces and tips and are not compatable with the MX500 handpiece and tips or with each other. If you are patient, on EBAY, you can get the earlier generations of the MX500 compatable systems for as low as $100. Look for power supply or system numbers RFG-30, STSS-001, STSS-002, PS2E-01. Look for a complete system of power supply plus wand [handpiece]. Don't bother with the MX-500 as you will pay a premium just because it is the current model without gaining significant improvement in performance or features. 
BTW, it is great to have just the right tip for the particular job [I have over a dozen] but if I were to only have one it would be a STTC-026 or 126.


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## Action (Feb 15, 2007)

What do you have for sale? An iron setup or a butane setup? I think its butane, but I'm not sure...



macforsale said:


> Action,
> The one I have and don't use is as good as any.
> 
> Let me get more details and a picture if you want.
> ...


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## macforsale (Feb 15, 2007)

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## TigerhawkT3 (Feb 15, 2007)

Action, I have a Weller Portasol. It's really easy to use, but it's not "top notch;" more like a handy little portable iron with no cords, for now-and-again type use. I got mine as a gift, but I've seen them for $20 at Sears.


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## Action (Feb 15, 2007)

Is there any small butane torch setup that is the standard like Metcal is for irons?


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## 65535 (Feb 16, 2007)

Weller WSD51 Digital station I love it, great cheap tip range, nice little unit. Solder's jsut about anythign I have thrown at it even some sheet metal (ran out of propane and the piece was small)


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## Action (Feb 18, 2007)

I pulled the trigger on a Hakko 936. After thinking a bit about the difference between it and a 937 (about $120), I figured that I could put the extra dollars toward some more Leef tubes or FM creations. I also picked up 3 other tips of various sizes.

It'll be interesting to see how this iron will work. I don't have any particular projects waiting for it. The only concern that I have it that this iron is only 50W when compared to others 85W versions.

Is there any particular butane torch setup that is better than any others? I am giving serious consideration of getting the $20 one above.


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## orangemarmalade (Mar 1, 2007)

I love my Xytronics 136 it's very similar to the Hakko 936, same heating element and tips. Theres also a Xytronics 137 which is like Hakko 937. They also make one that has a non-detachable iron and is a little different than the others Xytronics 379. That's the cheapest place to get them.


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## emitter (Mar 1, 2007)

ok thread is couple of weeks old and ya already purchased, but...

I have a used Hexacon therm-o-trac from a factory and it's awesome. 100W is nice. They show up on ebay. Lots of tips available, good power delivery to the tip, temperature controlled. The tips are Hexacon specific, but are available. Nice thing about these aside from the tight power/temp control is that the tip will never deliver any ac or dc volts to the work. 

The Hakko looks nice, very professional. Enjoy. Don't forget the flux paste. 

You could test the new toy by soldering a big gauge wire onto a chunk of aluminum. You'll see that your iron can get the heat to the work faster than the aluminum can dissapate it (or not?) 

/\/


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