# Can a 2 AAA mini maglite be upgraded still?



## Astro (Feb 6, 2012)

I have upgraded a 2 AA mini maglite with the TerraLUX TLE-5EX and am really pleased with it - brighter whiter and still zoomable with longer battery run times.

I have a really nice 2 AAA mini mag too, but it seems I have missed the boat with the TerraLUX TLE-20 upgrade kit for it. (If any of you have one -let me know!). Is there an easy and affordable way to convert the AAA to LED?


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## chewy78 (Feb 7, 2012)

Possibly. But to me, not worth the time and effort, there are better options out there.


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## NeonLights (Feb 7, 2012)

I've been looking around for more of the Terralux TLE-20 kits as well, as I've converted several AAA MiniMags to LED with the kit (for myself and gifts) and really liked it, but it appears to be out of production, and the suppliers I've bought from in the past no longer carry them.


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## Astro (Feb 7, 2012)

Thanks. There do seem to be some great alternative low cost options to replace the light, its a shame though as it is in an attractive mettalic purple.


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## Bozzlite (Feb 8, 2012)

Never mind. I thought I had found it at Battery junction, but alas.....discontinued.


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## Chicken Drumstick (Feb 8, 2012)

I too like the size design of the AAA Mini Mag. I upgraded mine recently (end of last year) with a dropin off eBay from Hong Kong. £4.50 inc shipping.

The claim is 18 lumens and while it massively increases to output over stock, it's still not overly bright compared to newer alternative lights. That said it does make it quite usable as a house light or for reading. I'd say it has a comparable or slightly better output than a standard incan AA Mini Mag, less throw but probably slightly more light. It does have a somewhat blue tinge to it too.

Possibly not all that helpful, but a beamshot on a cream wall from about 4 feet away.






As a reference this is the same camera settings and distance for a £10 Tesco CREE AA flashlight:





I bought 2 of these drop ins. The first worked fine for over a months worth of EDC'ing. Then it started playing up. It did this a couple of days after I switched from regular alkaline AAA's to lithium primaries. I don't know is these caused the issue or if it was the twisting on/off of the head that broke the drop in (a tail clicky would be good imo).

I've now got the 2nd drop in installed and it's seemed fine, but I'm running it on Eneloops and I'm not EDC'ing it any longer. Suspect the quality isn't great and the ebay seller has been less than helpful, so I probably wouldn't buy from them again. Although that said, at £4.50 to turn it into a usable light, it's justifiably worth it.


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## Astro (Feb 8, 2012)

Hi Chicken Drumstick, I have seen an unbranded upgrade on eBay that claims to allow zooming. Is this the one you got? Does it allow zooming, and use of the original reflector? I presume it dims as the battery fades? 18 Lumens is fine - in fact preferable - for my intended use (in car map reading torch).


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## Chicken Drumstick (Feb 8, 2012)

Astro said:


> Hi Chicken Drumstick, I have seen an unbranded upgrade on eBay that claims to allow zooming. Is this the one you got? Does it allow zooming, and use of the original reflector? I presume it dims as the battery fades? 18 Lumens is fine - in fact preferable - for my intended use (in car map reading torch).


I believe that might be the one. Have a look at this ebay item: 110794940830

It basically just has two pins on the bottom fits as a normal bulb would (although it is polarised). It requires no mods and retains the stock reflector. It does allow the focusable head, although it works best on a tight focus tbh, you just end up with a donut otherwise.

For a map light it would be an ideal brightness tbh. Just be gentle when turning off and tightening the head, as I believe it crushes the dropin.


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## sween1911 (Feb 9, 2012)

Interesting thread. I've long played with my Minimag AAA and wondered if there was an upgrade. It works pretty well still, I carried one as my EDC for years in the mid to late 90's. 

But yeah there are so many great offerings in that size, like the Streamlight Stylus line, that blow it away in terms of value and functionality. One thing I will say, it's still cool to see a non-flashaholic who is familiar with the incan Mags when they pick up an LED-upgraded model and turn it on, how amazed they are. I've picked up the Nite-ize modules for my old 2AA Minimag and I love it.


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## Astro (Feb 9, 2012)

Just ordered one from eBay - seems they have just brought out an upgraded version which in the pics appears a little more crush proof, and comes with a bigger LED, slightly brighter (20 Lumens quoted) and a new refelector. Will report back once I get it presumably in a few weeks (free shipping from Hong Kong).


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## Chicken Drumstick (Feb 10, 2012)

Astro said:


> Just ordered one from eBay - seems they have just brought out an upgraded version which in the pics appears a little more crush proof, and comes with a bigger LED, slightly brighter (20 Lumens quoted) and a new refelector. Will report back once I get it presumably in a few weeks (free shipping from Hong Kong).


I look forward to seeing what you think of it.


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## bon1 (Feb 11, 2012)

*Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*

Hi guys, I've been using an incandescent mini maglite for well over a decade. It's always worked flawlessly, but the quantity of light (lumens?) it provides is very small and its runtime is rather short as well (maybe something like 3 hours on random AA batteries?). I like how simple the on/off switch works, but the "zoom" feature ended up being more annoying in practice than I first thought. Also, this flashlight provides too few lumens for most of its running time, thus not very useful for work. The length and diameter(s) of this mini maglite are good for handling, but it's too long for pocketing it in a comfortable way.

_I'm not looking for the brightest light (thus, short runtime), but for a new flashlight that provides a lot more lumens than my current incandescent mini maglite while at the same time can significantly increase its running time--all with the same or better reliability than my current mini maglite.
_
Thus, I need a new flashlight that provides:

*More light around me* than my current mini maglite while at the same time it should *throw a beam down to at least 50 meters* (100 m or plus would be better).
This torch should also be* protected against the rain*.
It's got to be* as reliable and long lasting as my current incandescent mini maglite*.
It *must be able to use off the shelf AA batteries*--I'm considering rechargeables, but standard alcalines are a must.
*Included *accessories like an _useable _clip or lanyard are certainly welcome.
*The user interface must be simple and obvious to whoever gets to use the flashlight*.
*No maintenance*--I've never done anything to my current mini maglite other than changing the bulb every now and then.
The main uses for this flashlight are going to be: outdoor work, blackouts, personal light, blackouts, etc.
So I've been surfing the Internet where I found two possible candidates:

Mini Maglite LED Pro+
Sunwayman V20A (alternatively, V10A).
I have not been able to gather much information about this Mini Maglite LED Pro+, but I found a lot of positive comments about this Sunwayman V20A and its sister V10A.
Given my requirements, what do you guys advice me to get? I welcome any other alternatives as long as they fullfill my requirements. The single AA flashlights seem very pocketable, but I'm worried that they may not hold enough juice without having to replace the battery right in the middle of some task.

Eventually, I'd need to know in what online store I can get the best shipped price to Europe for the selected flashlight. For the Sunwayman, I found this website hkequipment.net but I don't know if there's any better offers out there.

Thank you in advance!


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## hiuintahs (Feb 11, 2012)

*Re: Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*

Hi, You will find that anything you get will be better than the Mini Mag. There are so many good choices these days. I don't have the Sunwayman V20A, but I looked up the price and its a little more expensive than 2AA lights I have. May I suggest you buy something less expensive so that you can buy 2 lights............a single AA light and a 2xAA light.


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## bon1 (Feb 11, 2012)

*Re: Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*

Thank you for your advice, Sir! But could you please give me brands and models I should look for? There's so many choices out there that I do not really know what to look for. Also, the only reason why I selected that Sunwayman model is because of the reviews I could find online pointing to its overall good quality and easy of use.


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## CarpentryHero (Feb 11, 2012)

*Re: Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*

+ 1 for the Sunwayman V20A, Sunwayman makes great lights.
Eagletac P10a2 would also fit the build really good. 
Fenix LD20 Q5 has a great throwy beam. The new R5 has the smooth reflector and that has a bit of a donut hole beam. 

Quark Turbo AA2, might be worth a look too.


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## bon1 (Feb 11, 2012)

*Re: Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*

Thank you, Sir!

I've seen pictures of the Sunwayman V20A where the threading on the LED side of the battery carrier seems very short. Is this an issue?


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## NeonLights (Feb 11, 2012)

*Re: Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*

Since you like the simplicity and form factor of the Minimag and you already own one, I'd suggest getting a dropin upgrade for it like the one from Terralux for starters. Cheap and simple. I still use my LED upgraded Mag's frequently, even though I have many other more expensive and more powerful lights in my arsenal to choose from.


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## booky (Feb 11, 2012)

*Re: Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*

+1 on the Terralux upgrade. It is simple to do, and you get to keep the Mini Mag body that you are accustomed to.

I just recently did it myself and I am quite happy with the results. Part name is Terralux tle-5ex Ministar2 Extreme


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## Ualnosaj (Feb 11, 2012)

V10A XML is good if you're going that route. The XML versions give you more "around you" light as you want. Else there are likely more durable and cheaper options.


___________
Posted from my phone.


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## hiuintahs (Feb 11, 2012)

*Re: Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*

Personally, I wouldn't bother with the Terralux upgrade. I'd take this opportunity to buy a flashlight that is designed for LED. That way you will get multiple modes, better switch, better heat sinking and better reflector. Don't get me wrong, the mini mag upgrades had their day in the sun 5 years ago but its outdated now because there are so many better options that are available now.


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## Kilted (Feb 12, 2012)

*Re: Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*

Sounds like you really need to look into Mini Maglite Pro and Pro+. 

Other wise to keep the flood and throw in one light look into LED Lenser. It has the spot-wide like a Maglite but with higher beam quality and brighter. Can be had with 2-4 alkaline and LiIon rechargeable very nice charger system. The LiIon flashlights CAN NOT be used with alkaline's.

=D~~ Kilted


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## Monocrom (Feb 12, 2012)

It's too bad that the TerraLux upgrade is no longer available. Honestly though, unless we're talking a 2AAA Mini-Mag with sentimental value; it's not even worth upgrading. The TerraLux upgrade on mine makes the 2AAA penlight a bit more pragmatic. But truly not by much.


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## Astro (Feb 12, 2012)

*Re: Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*

If you would be sad about the maglite becoming redundant, I would also recommend the terralux drop in: transformed my AA mini mag. However I soon went for a Fenix as well. Having a smaller size, and having multiple brightness modes, all in a package that seems to me to be better engineered than my trusty mini mag is really worth the cost. 

I don't regret the terralux upgrade as I am glad my mag is a very useful backup light.


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## Itinifni (Feb 12, 2012)

*Re: Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*

There are so many options and you didn't mention your budget or what type of batteries you want to use.

I agree with those suggesting you start with the Terralux upgrade for the Mini Mag. It will be much brighter that it was with better run time and will make a good back up light. While you're at it, order a Terralux Lightstar 100, inexpensive (less than $20 here). Single AA, simple user interface, not real bright compared to the higher end LED lights but exponentionaly brighter that a Mini Mag incan. I've been EDCing it for over a year without a hitch, despite the advertised run time of 1 hour on H and 2 on L I get about 2.5 hours on H and close to 5 hours on L off an Eneloop. It would give you a chance to see if you like the 1 AA form factor.

You could also try the iTP S series, I have the SA1 on order.


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## bon1 (Feb 12, 2012)

*Re: Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*

Thank you for all your suggestions! 

I would like to keep the price for my new *flashlight below the 60 - 70 USD mark*--includding S&H. I guess this is doable with several of the Chinese offerings and I don't care if it takes a month for the light to show up.

As for the batteries, I need to be able to run out of* off-the-shelf AA Alkaline batteries*. I'll try to use those NiMH rechargeable batteries if I can, but the Alkalines are a must.

Given that this LED technology is totally new to me, what is the modern alternative for my old mini maglite? Is that a 1 or a 2AA battery flashlight?

I do *not need the brightest light* in the market, but one with a *long runtime *with reasonably good throw and flow.

As for the *Sunwayman V20A*, does the short thread on the head side of the battery carrier pose any sort of problems? Is it sturdy?

*Other 2AA li*ghts that I'm considering at the moment are:

JetBeam BA20
Klarus P2A
*1AA *offerings:

EagleTac D25A
JetBeam BA10
I'd much preffer this ne*w flashlight to not have any redundant modes* (SOS, strobe, etc), but I do appreciate 2 - 3 modes for hi, med, and low.

I'd be awesome if the flashlight retained the last mode used, or at least started with the lowest mode available.

Also, I'm a bit uncomfortable with all those lights where you have to keep the head a bit loose in order to use some of the modes or to turn it off.* Or is this as reliable and troublefree as the head in my current mini maglite?*


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## Tsportmat (Feb 12, 2012)

*Re: Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*

Zebralight SC51w is a nice 1xAA, I used it as a replacement to my Mini Mag (but then couldn't stand to see it unused, so dropped a TerraLux in and added an acrylic ball to make a nice thrower; I store it in my car.


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## Kilted (Feb 12, 2012)

*Re: Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*



bon1 said:


> Thank you for all your suggestions!
> 
> As for the batteries, I need to be able to run out of* off-the-shelf AA Alkaline batteries*. I'll try to use those NiMH rechargeable batteries if I can, but the Alkalines are a must.
> 
> As for the *Sunwayman V20A*, does the short thread on the head side of the battery carrier pose any sort of problems? Is it sturdy?



I own a SWM-V20A and unless you intend to use the flashlight as a crowbar the threads from the light engine to the body tube are no problem. I also own a SWM V-10A, and two V10R's ALL have the same amount of thread on the battery barrel, it's just the amount of space that the light engine head was designed for. I also had a SWM-10A-XPE for awhile and the thread on the battery tube was the same as all others. 

In this current line of SWM V1/20R/A all tubes and heads are interchangeable. All heads have voltage rating of 0.9-4.2v which is why using a protected LiIon in the "R" series is required, the light would suck a LiIon down to destruction. With a low voltage of 0.9v V20A-Cree R5 should suck a alkaline completely dead.

If you go with the SWM-V20A and intend to use it ONLY on alkaline and NiMH then stay away from the XML-T6 as you will never achieve rated output. Instead buy the XPE version. The SWM-V20A no whistles or bells, tail cap click on/off magnetic ring for brightness that is it.

The all current SWM Cree R5 are on sale so you will easily come within your budget.

All SWM-Vxx need reverse polarity protection added: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?326056-Sunwayman-V10A-reverse-polarity-protection Its dead easy to do and nothing to get excited over.

=D~~ Kilted


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## vali (Feb 12, 2012)

*Re: Upgrade from incandescent mini maglite*

If you need a 2xAA with only 2 modes and a long runtime, the BA20 is pretty much unbeatable for the price.


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## Astro (Feb 16, 2012)

The upgrade arrived in the post today, adverised on ebay as '20 lumens Bi-Pin LED MODULE KIT FOR MINI MAGLITE' - about £5.50 with free shipping from Hong Kong. It arrived quickly, featuring an aluminium disc holding a circuitboard on one side and an LED on the other, and a shallow replacement reflector to fit the AAA maglites. 

Here it is with the old refelector and dissassembled Mag head:






The reflector has to be shallow to accomodate the disc platorm that the LED sits on, replacing the bulb; don't remove the black disc on the maglit. New reflector on the left in both pics.





Installation of the LED module is almost as simple as replacing an incandescent bulp. The pins fit easily and snuggly into the holes for the bulb. The board offers reverse polarity protection which is important as there is no way to see if you put the LED in the right way round other than trying it. If it doesn't light up (as it didn't in my case) - take out and ut it back in the other way round.





The head is easy to open, unscrew the top and the old reflector is replaced by the new





Results? The quoted figure of 20 lumens seems about right - it is a bit brighter than my PD32's low 9 lumen setting, but closer to that brightness thn the next setting of 70 lumens. 

I read of other versions that tightening the Mag head too much could shatter the circuit board disc. It looks like this issue has been addressed with the aluminium disc to protect the board. I guess the aluminium might act as a bit of a heat sink, although it doesn't touch the outer torch casing, only the plastic reflector and switch.

With my Terralux upgrade to an AA Maglite, the off position is a lot further out than with the original incandescent bulb and reflector - ie the torch is around 8mm longer than it used to be when it is in the off position - and there are a lot less turns of the head to remove it.

This AAA adapter kit on the other hand, using the very shallow reflector - means that the torch closes up exactly as before, to the same length. I liked ths feature.

Not everything is perfect. You may notice that the LED emmitter seems to be at the top/end of the plastic bulb. Combined with the shallow reflector, this means when you activate the torch, the light is emmitted very forward from the focus point of the reflector. What you have is a very wide donut.

It takes a lot of turns to close up the donut - and a little further to overlap it to make a brighter smaller hot spot - after which the head would come off. The focused spot isn't all that circular and there are 3 thin radial shadows too when the beam is a bit wider. 

I'm not complaining - the torch is miles more useful, bright with a hopefully indefinitely lasting LED and much longer battery run than times before, and has meant that I don't have to throw a nice looking torch away. As I want the torch for an in-car map reading torch, I added some magice tape to the back of the lens to act as a diffuser and turn the light into a flood. With this mod the torch is absolutely perfect for what I want - the donuts and irregularities are smoothed out and the light is pretty great in all focus settings.

Very happy with the results.


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## GottaZoom (Mar 23, 2012)

I'm looking for something for a 2 x AAA Brinkman of similar size and vintage. The Brinkman light sits a bit deeper in the head and the reflector is different (has a collar around the base) . . anybody have experience with upgrading those to an LED that is at least as bright as the incandescent?


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## Mag-man (Nov 11, 2012)

Astro,
For most of my 2 AA Mini Maglites, I've installed these mildly diffusing Acrylite lenses that gets rid of imperfections from the mirror-sharp reflector. However the 2AAA size isn't available, so I used a piece of scotch tape (not the clear stuff but cut it to shape after you've put a piece of tape on it). That diffuses the light and gets rid of the rings for the most part. Nice little upgrade

I'm waiting for the 18 lumen setup in the mail... I used to used the kypton bulb in the 2AAA but the battery life, even with Eneloops was horribly short. Less than 90 min but the light was perfect for around the house and in the car. This should be even better.

I wish they made tinted scotch tape so I could simply control the color of the light!


_


Astro said:



It takes a lot of turns to close up the donut - and a little further to overlap it to make a brighter smaller hot spot - after which the head would come off. The focused spot isn't all that circular and there are 3 thin radial shadows too when the beam is a bit wider. 

I'm not complaining - the torch is miles more useful, bright with a hopefully indefinitely lasting LED and much longer battery run than times before, and has meant that I don't have to throw a nice looking torch away. As I want the torch for an in-car map reading torch, I added some magice tape to the back of the lens to act as a diffuser and turn the light into a flood. With this mod the torch is absolutely perfect for what I want - the donuts and irregularities are smoothed out and the light is pretty great in all focus settings.

/QUOTE]

Click to expand...

_


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## Stratolight (May 11, 2013)

*Best Mini Maglite LED upgrade?*

Hi there! :wave:

I own two incan mini mags (one black and one woodland camo).

I today ask the wider flashlight community as to what the best LED upgrade is for a 2AA cell Mini Maglite?

It just seems that 14 lumens doesn't do the job for me...

Many thanks to your reply's 

(Oh and sorry if posted in the wrong place, feel free to move to another place  )


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## StarHalo (May 11, 2013)

*Re: Best Mini Maglite LED upgrade?*

The 140 lumen TerraLux Ministar, bearing in mind that the cost for a MiniMag and one of these drop ins is about the same as the cost of a current ~250 lumen MiniMag Pro+..


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## mesa232323 (May 12, 2013)

*Re: Best Mini Maglite LED upgrade?*

You have to specify what you mean as far as "best"


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## LEDninja (May 12, 2013)

*Re: Best Mini Maglite LED upgrade?*

Are you in Australia?
If so shipping can get quite interesting.

Brightguy (the link to the minimag pro+) will only ship courier outside US. They wanted $40+ on a $20 order and I am just across the border. And the courier company's customs brokerage charges are no fun either. I cancelled.
Came across a single mode 225 lumen minimag pro down under. The Pro+ is 2 modes - max and 25%. (Most of the Pro+ I saw was ebay.au with stock outside Australia.)

As to the Terralux, cranking down on the head just a little too hard will twist the module and break the pins. Try to get a tail cap switch for on off. Just use the head for focus.
There are other switches by Nite-ize.
Warning: The tailcap switches only work with incandescent minimags. They do not work with LED minimags including the Pro and Pro+


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## FuzzyM (May 21, 2013)

*Re: Best Mini Maglite LED upgrade?*

I have a teralux upgrade in mine and it has definitely transformed it from relic to practical. The beam is superior to the original setup too.


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## DKrider20 (Jul 31, 2013)

*Mini mag upgrade*

My Mini Maglite broke yesterday when I tried to put an upgraded L.E.D in it. WHAT DO I DO?????


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## Aznwolf118 (Aug 7, 2013)

*Re: Mini mag upgrade*

I am curious as well, I wonder if you can bore it out and use it for a host and run 18650 batteries and some sort of conversion


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## AnAppleSnail (Aug 7, 2013)

*Re: Mini mag upgrade*

Neither the AA nor AAA mini mag will fit cells over 14mm (AA) or 10mm (AAA) in diameter. With the AAA mini mag lite costing $15 in the US, it'd be awfully tough to beat the bang for the buck. That's a pretty good light for not much more than the cheapest Terralux upgrade.

DKRider, how did it break?


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## DKrider20 (Aug 7, 2013)

AnAppleSnail said:


> Neither the AA nor AAA mini mag will fit cells over 14mm (AA) or 10mm (AAA) in diameter. With the AAA mini mag lite costing $15 in the US, it'd be awfully tough to beat the bang for the buck. That's a pretty good light for not much more than the cheapest Terralux upgrade.
> 
> DKRider, how did it break?
> 
> ...


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## DKrider20 (Aug 7, 2013)

I'm so pissed now because I've had that light for about 10 years now and I'm only 19. Of course it has to break when I try to upgrade it :'(


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## Monocrom (Aug 7, 2013)

*Re: Mini mag upgrade*



Aznwolf118 said:


> I am curious as well, I wonder if you can bore it out and use it for a host and run 18650 batteries and some sort of conversion



Another issue is the fact that the bodies of those lights are notoriously thin. Relying on the batteries to keep the body from getting deformed if you squeeze the light in your hand just a bit too hard.


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## LEDninja (Aug 7, 2013)

Astro said:


> I have a really nice 2 AAA mini mag too, but it seems I have missed the boat with the TerraLUX TLE-20 upgrade kit for it. (If any of you have one -let me know!).


PM sent.
LEDninja.


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## rufusbduck (Aug 9, 2013)

*Re: Mini mag upgrade*



Aznwolf118 said:


> I am curious as well, I wonder if you can bore it out and use it for a host and run 18650 batteries and some sort of conversion


It's not large enough for an 18650 but I've done cut down mods for a 14650 powering 3x 219 or 1x XML. The terralux drop ins are still pretty dim compared to even an under driven xlamp let alone a liion powered xp-g2. Here's one with a 10440.


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## NeilP (Nov 20, 2014)

*Re: Mini mag upgrade*

OK, so a year after this thread was last updated.

How are all the upgrades going.

I had have just found my 'souvenir ' branded British AeroSpace Systems (BAE) AAA 2 cell maglight and I'd love to put LED in that.

So the first place I came to was a google advance search of here.

Just browsing around now and looking for the latest thoughts on doing this and feedback on those kits that have worked and those to avoid.

Any pointers to what is the best kit now, if any still available?


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## Icarus (Nov 20, 2014)

There seems to be a 90 Lumens kit available now for the 2AAA.


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## NeilP (Nov 20, 2014)

Well I just ordered two..I'll let you know how it goes !!

Thanks


But how did the others who upgraded theirs? are they still working?


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## Chicken Drumstick (Nov 20, 2014)

I have two incan to LED AAA Mags.

The first uses a cheap drop in (maybe Terralux, not sure). Bought it a while ago. It works fine and is brighter than stock. But has a very blue tint. I keep it on the shelf mostly.

My other one I won in a Give Away, modded by a chap called Old Lumens (you may have heard of him). It uses a large copper slug and a direct drive XP-G2 and runs on a single 10440 only.

It's very bright for it's size and is very nice. Works perfectly, I sometimes EDC it, but very short runtimes mean it spends more time on the shelf too than in my pocket.

Very interested to see what sort of tint that new 90 lumen drop in produces. If it's NW or even a descent CW I'd be tempted, but I don't want anymore blue tinted lights.


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## Icarus (Nov 20, 2014)

NeilP said:


> Well I just ordered two..I'll let you know how it goes !!
> 
> Thanks



I'm looking forward to it. :thumbsup:


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## NeilP (Nov 26, 2014)

Bad news chaps...they made a mistake on their advert..they are actually AA adapters..i just received an e-mail from them apologising 


I put in an order..then read the posting in full..It said for international buyers to contact them BEFORE buying, so they could adjust postage price accordingly .

I missed that bit and paid directly, so I sent them an e-mail apologising, and offering to pay any extra postage costs. 

They then got back to me..obviously having read the order/ sale page, and compared it to what they were selling / had in stock, and realised the label was AA , not AAA.

here is a summary of what they said, not a direct quote 


> Your question was investigated and as we just found out, the bulbs you purchased are for Maglite 2 AA flashlights, not for 2 AAA ones.
> Please, accept our sincere apologies for the situation occurred and the inconvenience caused.
> When the package will be delivered to you, please refuse the receipt and let us know so that
> we could issue you full refund.


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## Icarus (Nov 26, 2014)

Damn, bad news indeed.  Long time ago 'the shoppe' sold the SMJLED2 AAA Solitaire module. That was a real AAA LED module but as far as I remember it wasn't a succes. :shrug: With the latest LEDs it might be possible to build a more satisfying module though.


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## NeilP (Nov 27, 2014)

Well I have two on the way, and no AA Maglite. I did have one but no idea where it is now.

So I may just open up one of these modules and see what I can do to reverse engineer it,then maybe reconstruct 

Are there any Li Ion AAA sized cells? If I am doing my own mod, might end up going further 


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


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## Icarus (Nov 27, 2014)

NeilP said:


> Well I have two on the way, and no AA Maglite..


For AA or AAA MiniMag? 



NeilP said:


> Are there any Li Ion AAA sized cells?


Sure, they are called 10440 cells. Not sure which is best brand.


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## NeilP (Nov 27, 2014)

They are from the link you gave . Supposed to be AAA but actually AA as they made a mistake.

What are these likely to be like ? Just bare LED's connected to board and pins that rely on battery IR for current limit or do these sort of things usually come with driver or some current limit device? Guess there is no way to know.

Have been reading about soldering Cree LED's and clipping or removing corner wires to allow soldering of the full base to a heatsink and then wiring direct to the top of the LED. I may have to look at going that way and making own adapter slug


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## Icarus (Nov 28, 2014)

NeilP said:


> What are these likely to be like ? Just bare LED's connected to board and pins that rely on battery IR for current limit or do these sort of things usually come with driver or some current limit device? Guess there is no way to know.



Since they say "working voltage 1-3V" there should be a boost driver in it. 
If not, as far as I can see in the photos it would be easy to turn it down to AAA size. 
I'm wondering what LED they used. It looks like there is no dome? 
The problem for making your own module is the size of the driver.
I still have 2 Flupic 10mm drivers but I don't like the Flupic UI. :shrug:


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## NeilP (Dec 2, 2014)

Well they have arrived.

16mm diameter, need 11.5 mm at most for fitting in to a AAA twin cell maglite.

I can't figure out if I can just turn the block down...or if under the metal casing there are components that I will chew through with the lathe.

Only one way to find out I guess. I'll try and stick one in the lathe tomorrow tomorrow if I don't get a call to go to work. Not sure hot to grab it though...going to have to be on the LED " shaft" without crushing it.


Here are a couple of quick shots with no reflector bezel, as I can't fit it until I turn down the base unit.



Shot at:
ISO1600
f1.8
320TH SEC
WB 4800K


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## Icarus (Dec 2, 2014)

What kind of LED did they use? Does the LED have a dome or not?
I'm afraid you will be destroying the module because I'm pretty sure there must be a driver in it.


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## NeilP (Dec 2, 2014)

I did wonder about there being a driver in there. You quoted me asking about that in post 55, but never made any comment.

The thought only just occurred to me again at 0400, while lying in bed. It does not appear to be polarised, or I have got lucky. I have put it in the Maglite, six times or more now, and it works correctly each time. 




As for the LED, I'll try and get a close up pic tomorrow that is in focus. Shot the pic of it last night with iPhone. But LED IS tiny, less than 1mm across. If I can borrow a macro lens I'll try getting better picture.

It came with no paperwork or information at all.


Does not appear that there will be any way to open it without destroying it. The wiring up that tiny shaft must be hair thickness.

The best I can probably do is slowly remove material from the outside, testing as I go. See how much can be removed before it stops working.



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## Icarus (Dec 3, 2014)

NeilP said:


> I did wonder about there being a driver in there. You quoted me asking about that in post 55, but never made any comment.



Hmmm.... I did make a comment. I said Since they say "working voltage 1-3V" there should be a boost driver in it. 

This is because Vf should be around but higher than 3V. If there is no boost driver in it there would be not much light coming out when using rechargable NiMH batteries. This is a test you could do. Try the module using 1.2V NiMH and 1.5V Alkaline batteries. If ourput looks the same the module should house a boost driver.


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## Icarus (Dec 3, 2014)

NeilP said:


> It does not appear to be polarised, or I have got lucky. I have put it in the Maglite, six times or more now, and it works correctly each time.


You must have been licky then. In both cases (with or without driver) it should be polarised. 
It would be interesting to check this (before you start ruining the module ).


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## Icarus (Dec 3, 2014)

This might be a good driver to build your own module. I just ordered them.
Reading customers reviews it seems to work fine on 2 AA (2 AAA) batteries.


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## NeilP (Dec 3, 2014)

No just checked, not polarised. 

it works both ways so the driver must have rectifier diodes...or just be rectifier diodes and a resistor.


I have two of them, so can afford to damage one. Will know more once open

Just taken macro pics of LED..just need to edit those pics then post up.

Can see the solder pads on the LED, and also 4 rear solder pads or securing rivets...may have to drill them out to pop out the PCB, but removing the wires from the LED and pulling through woudl be near impossible


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## NeilP (Dec 3, 2014)

Here are the pics of the LED, not brilliant, but no tripod, so just use a reverser ring and hand held. Not easy with a mm depth of field.

Possibly the driver is built in to the LED chip ? That would be handy


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## NeilP (Dec 3, 2014)

OK, so a few figures.

With 2 AAA cells, giving at rest 2.66 volts 
Current draw is 137mA


Now, they both differ though, I guess one has a solder short within it or something has blown

One of them I can connect negative to the case, and the unit lights up with positive applied to either pin. It won't work with positive applied to the case

The other unit only lights up when voltage is applied to Either pin, the case is not in circuit at all.

There is no way I can unsolder the LED. Even with a magnifying loop I am not that skilled or have a fine enough tip iron. The LED is 1mm x 1.2mm approx.


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## NeilP (Dec 3, 2014)

Icarus said:


> Hmmm.... I did make a comment. I said Since they say "working voltage 1-3V" there should be a boost driver in it.
> 
> This is because Vf should be around but higher than 3V. If there is no boost driver in it there would be not much light coming out when using rechargable NiMH batteries. This is a test you could do. Try the module using 1.2V NiMH and 1.5V Alkaline batteries. If ourput looks the same the module should house a boost driver.




Sorry I missed that reply, or I was just not thinking. I saw the 1-3volt bit, I must be getting senile! 


Well they run with a lower light output on a 1.5 alkaline, and draw about 67mA.

a 1.2 volt NiMh, still draws a small current, 20mA or so..but no light



I am going to go and see if I can remove the outer ring and see if the PCD+B can be popped off


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## NeilP (Dec 3, 2014)

Icarus said:


> This might be a good driver to build your own module. I just ordered them.
> Reading customers reviews it seems to work fine on 2 AA (2 AAA) batteries.




Yes, looking at that driver it looks possible to remove some PCB from the circumference, as it is 12mm, so a little shaving should enable it to fit the AAA maglite.


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## NeilP (Dec 3, 2014)

Well it works...very rough and I did kill the first one. The brass LED carrier ripped away from the PCB and tore the tiny wires. the holes up the shaft are sub mm and filled with epoxy, so probably no chance of drilling them out they are too small for any kit I have.
The LED still works on the 'dead one' but I can't check if the driver board still works as I can't pick away the hardened epoxy or get solder to adhere to the wire. One wire easily visible, the other buried within the black epoxy.

The only way in the end to reduce the diameter of the unit was grip the LED post in an electric drill and very gently spin it against a fine rotating grinder wheel. Very rough, but it worked.

The first (now dead) one, the two sections (PCB and brass holder ) were not epoxied well, and they separated, breaking the wiring from the PCB up to the LED. The wire is very fine and goes up two tine holes within the brass post.

Second one I was far more aware of the potential to split the PCB from the holder, I had thought it may be necessary to get it to a stage where I could see the component 'gap' and inject extra epoxy. I have now picked the swarf and rough edges off with a 0.5mm flat blade screwdriver and filled with superglue. I could not see the swarf by eye, only noticed after taking th macro shots.

When it gets dark will do some beam shots.


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## Icarus (Dec 3, 2014)

NeilP said:


> No just checked, not polarised.
> 
> it works both ways so the driver must have rectifier diodes...or just be rectifier diodes and a resistor.


Well, I'm puzzled about this....... :thinking:


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## Icarus (Dec 3, 2014)

NeilP said:


> OK, so a few figures.
> 
> With 2 AAA cells, giving at rest 2.66 volts
> Current draw is 137mA


Is this using NiMH or Alkaline cells? 137mA is not much and the LED will even see less.



NeilP said:


> There is no way I can unsolder the LED. Even with a magnifying loop I am not that skilled or have a fine enough tip iron. The LED is 1mm x 1.2mm approx.


Wow... that is really small. I'm wondering what LED it is.


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## Icarus (Dec 3, 2014)

NeilP said:


> Well it works...very rough and I did kill the first one. The brass LED carrier ripped away from the PCB and tore the tiny wires. the holes up the shaft are sub mm and filled with epoxy, so probably no chance of drilling them out they are too small for any kit I have.
> The LED still works on the 'dead one' but I can't check if the driver board still works as I can't pick away the hardened epoxy or get solder to adhere to the wire. One wire easily visible, the other buried within the black epoxy.
> 
> The only way in the end to reduce the diameter of the unit was grip the LED post in an electric drill and very gently spin it against a fine rotating grinder wheel. Very rough, but it worked.
> ...



I'm glad you end up with one working module that fits the 2AAA MiniMag.  Nice macro photos too! :thumbsup: Thanks for sharing your experiences! I'm looking forward to the beamshots. Especially to see how bright it is compared to another light. When time allows me I will try to build my own 2AAA module.


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## NeilP (Dec 4, 2014)

Icarus said:


> neil said:
> 
> 
> > _No just checked, not polarised. _
> ...





i tried quoting while on the iPhone .... 


I'll try and unpick the epoxy off the dead one. On e-bikes we regularly use AC-dc Switched mode PSU's running off DC. The bridge rectifier works fine, as it would. I guess they just have similar here.


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## NeilP (Dec 4, 2014)

Icarus said:


> Is this using NiMH or Alkaline cells? 137mA is not much and the LED will even see less.
> 
> 
> Wow... that is really small. I'm wondering what LED it is.



the 137 mA at 2.66 was used Duracell alkaline.


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## NeilP (Dec 4, 2014)

Icarus said:


> I'm glad you end up with one working module that fits the 2AAA MiniMag.  Nice macro photos. I'm looking forward to the beamshots. Especially to see how bright it is compared to another light.



macros were not the best. Tried using an old low quality FD lens with extension tube, and adapter to EOS. Also EOS 24-105 lens on reverser ring and also a Little Olympus Zx-2. Really need a macro lens and proper ring flash.

have done some basic beam shots but rushing to work now. If I can find my Portable Apps FTP client USB stick I can upload to my server.

on bedroom wall, 2meter compared to little 3x SR41 powered LED Lenser V8 or V9. I think it is called


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## NeilP (Dec 4, 2014)

OK, I did it quickly before heading gofff to work

Sorry if they are a bit big

OK 5 shots
Setings 
ISO400
4800K on camera, though Lightroom detected this as 4450
f2.8
¼ second exposure.
manual focus
Distance 2 or 3 meter
no adjustments in Lightroom, just direct export to jpg.

1st LED Lenser V8
2nd Maglite just on
3rd Maglite as beam starts to change
4th maglite as black spot changes
5th maglite, just as the screw head is hanging on by one thread or less.


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## Icarus (Dec 4, 2014)

:thanks: for posting the beamshots (I hate making beamshit  ).
I suppose you are still using the stock reflector, right?


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## NeilP (Dec 4, 2014)

Been looking at the pics of the dead circuit board. Those SMD's marked SJ...seem to be diodes, so I guees there is a front end rectifier section.

Will try and clamp the board down and pick the epoxy off.


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## Icarus (Dec 4, 2014)

Like expected, the stock reflector isn't the best choice for your LED module. It seems a 15mm reflector would be just right for the 2AAA MiniMag but I don't know if they exist.


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## datiLED (Dec 4, 2014)

Chances are it is a ZXSC310 circuit with reverse polarity protection. http://www.diodes.com/_files/design_note_pdfs/zetex/dn78.pdf

A decent bang for the buck circuit that has been around for many years.


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## NeilP (Dec 5, 2014)

That is great, something to go with. If I can manage to pick the epoxy away i'l see if I can confirm.


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## NeilP (Dec 6, 2014)

It is polarity independent for a much simpler reason.

It has a bridge rectifier at the front end

One item is an inductor, I chipped the corner off the ferrite top when I picked the epoxy out.
Also a resistor R120, and the unknown components. No marking that can be easily read either .

It still works, despite my butchery. need to see if I can re wire the output wires back to the LED. Well when I say it works, it supplies an output voltage of 3.6 volts with an input of 1.3 from a single alkaline cell.

would be nice if it could be made to run off a higher voltage, a 10440 cell then I could rebuild in to a Solitaire AAA single cell maglite.

I have taken a guess that that there pin device is a transistor, NPN, it was marked 617
Would the circular device be an inductor?

and what about the 5 pin chip?


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## Icarus (Dec 6, 2014)

Glad to see you could remove the epoxy and the circuit still works.
I hope you can get the LED back to life as well. :thumbsup: 
Maybe the resistor is a sense resistor and allows to increase the output.


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## NeilP (Dec 6, 2014)

Yes, was thinking the same. 

Trying to trace the circuit to work out what the 5 pin chip is,
I have found a couple, but they have different pinouts.

Pin 2 is always ground, but no fully sure what I have got yet. Circuit not easy to trace under magnifier loop.

In fact the more I think about it, trying to solder any of these SM devices to make the unit smaller is probably too much hassle. It could take me hours ..for what , salvage a little device that is worth pennies.


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## Icarus (Dec 6, 2014)

NeilP said:


> In fact the more I think about it, trying to solder any of these SM devices to make the unit smaller is probably too much hassle. It could take me hours ..for what , salvage a little device that is worth pennies.



The primary reason for modding is the challenge to make it better and the satisfaction when you are successful.


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## datiLED (Dec 6, 2014)

The transistor is a Zetex (Diodes, Inc.) FMMT617. They are used in many of the ZXSC310 and ZXSC300 boost converters. If it isn't a Diodes, Inc. IC, it is a knock-off with a similar function.


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## NeilP (Dec 6, 2014)

Yes, I have done many other electronics jobs, but not with soldering SMD's

Even with a magnifier loop those prissy little things are just too small to solder easily. It just hacks me off and I get too annoyed. 

Am 46 now and eyesight is slowly going down (presbyopia setting in) . Never had to wear glasses all my life, but now for small stuff I need to and it is just amazingly annoying. 
Trying to see these pesky little things, through a pair of glasses and also a magnifier lens, and try and solder with a micro tip soldering iron. I get no joy, just immense anger and frustration.

Have ben trying for about two hours just to see and trace the circuit. Given up now. before I do damage to it.




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## NeilP (Dec 6, 2014)

Yes, I got that one . basic NPN transistor.

Looks like the chip has been abraded to remove its number
Something like an LM3410 or , NCP5006 or 5007 from the basic searches i have done so far. But only grasping at straws.


Edit...sorry...you have already given me the 5 pin devices but looking at how they are wired, pin2 on mine is on the negative output side , so more like the 5006 or 5007 device....need to look harder to be sure yet.


From my work so far I think Pin 1 and 3 are common, but I have not drawn that in


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## datiLED (Dec 6, 2014)

I do a lot of SMT soldering, and rarely use a soldering iron. I use a hot air soldering station. Put a dab of solder paste on the pads, place the components, and heat slowly. As the solder paste begins to liquefy, the components are held in place by capillary action. Move the nozzle in closer, and the solder melts. It is not as fast as a conventional soldering iron, but for SMT components, it is the best thing going IMO.


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## Icarus (Dec 7, 2014)

LED module for MinMag 2AAA on eBay in UK!


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## NeilP (Dec 7, 2014)

Icarus said:


> LED module for MinMag 2AAA on eBay in UK!


 It does look suspeciously like the one I bought before. I will try and send them a mesage later to find out its diameter. The last advert actually also said suitable for 2 x AAA cell maglites..but it was a mistake. I cant try any new modules in mine. After I spun the over size material off the last adapter, it was not so secure between the metal plate and the PCB..so i added a touch of super glue...it flowed out and stuch the complete untit to the bolb holder plastic block. So I can remove the complete plastic unit, but not the LED module. So..cant do more mods to this one except for use the whole body as a complete host.


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## Icarus (Dec 10, 2014)

NeilP said:


> It does look suspeciously like the one I bought before. I will try and send them a mesage later to find out its diameter. The last advert actually also said suitable for 2 x AAA cell maglites..but it was a mistake. I cant try any new modules in mine. After I spun the over size material off the last adapter, it was not so secure between the metal plate and the PCB..so i added a touch of super glue...it flowed out and stuch the complete untit to the bolb holder plastic block. So I can remove the complete plastic unit, but not the LED module. So..cant do more mods to this one except for use the whole body as a complete host.



Did you get a reply from the seller? 

The Ledil Tina2 optic might be good alternative to the stock reflector.


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## NeilP (Dec 10, 2014)

Icarus said:


> Did you get a reply from the seller?




I forgot. too busy with work that day.

Message sent now, and also to another seller with a similar item.


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## NeilP (Dec 10, 2014)

Had reply, from two sellers

These look like the correct ones 
10.8 mm diameter

Unfortunately since I accidentally glued my first one to the Incan pin bulb holder with superglue I won't be getting one.





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## MidnightDistortions (Sep 14, 2019)

Hey guys, I am trying to find a LED upgrade for an AAA incan minimag. I had bought a Tektite one that works in both AA and AAA. Well should have bought a dedicated one for the AAA because I broke the only one I had in my AA minimag. I used that one at work and evidently when screwing the light closed too tightly will break the emitter.

Anyways I don't see it in stock on Amazon and i couldn't find another one. Found one for my AA which is twice as bright as the Tektite but dont know if theres one that'll work with the AAA minimag.


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