# Benchmade 710 in 154CM or D2?



## chamenos (Mar 12, 2006)

I'm seriously considering a 710, but I understand from Benchmade's website that the steel used for the 710 has been upgraded for 2006, from 154CM to D2. Being a newbie to knives, I am not as well-versed in metallurgy as some of you, so I need to know the pros and cons of both steels before I make a decision.

The only knife I have and EDC is a 555s in 440C. Resistance to corrosion is a fairly important factor to me, owing to the humid climate here and my sweaty palms. I recently acquired a Spyderco Sharpmaker, so any comments relating to that would be appreciated as well. So far I've had no problems with my 555s and Benchmade's 440C, so that will have to be the basis for comparison to the above two steels mentioned.

Also, any recommendations for online dealers who are responsive to international customers and offer reasonable shipping policies and prices would help make my decision final


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## GarageBoy (Mar 12, 2006)

D2 is less stainless, but holds a edge longer. (it wont rust if you look at it wrong, but still, wipe some food grade mineral oil on it or something) 
On the 710, use the corners only on the sharpmaker, or you'll flatten the recurve.
www.newgraham.com is my favorite dealer (mine and most of the knife community)
If not, try www.knifecenter.com or www.knifeworks.com


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## ghostrider (Mar 12, 2006)

I don't know much about the 710, and I'm not trying to talk into not buying one. Looks like a nice knife. Like the other poster intimated, D2 is not a stainless steel, so will require some care.

I will say that if corrosion resistance is desirable, you should check out the Spyderco Salt series. They don't rust. One person even left his in a glass of saltwater for two months in his refrigerator and no rust. Of course, they arent as elegant looking as the 710. 

I use a Sharpmaker for most of my blades. Watch the video/DVD and read the booklet. I used a Lansky before getting my Sharpmaker, and the SM is so much easier. It also allows for more consistent edge from one sharpening session to the next. Just make sure to not let the blade tip slide off the rod. That will round the tip.


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## NotRegulated (Mar 12, 2006)

I have had two 710's for quite awhile now. One is ATS-34 and the other is D2. I haven't used them hard enough to really notice the difference. I remember the D2 model cost quite a bit more at the time.

Most high-end makers moved from ATS-43 (Japanese steel) to 154CM (American) and then to S30V (American).

The toughness of both D2 and 154CM are nearly the same and the wear resistance are nearly identical with the nod going to 154CM. Remember D2 is not stainless steel like 154CM. You usually see some type of coating on D2 because of this. You live in humidity so I would recommend the 154CM steel. Act fast if you can buy the 710 in 154CM. I think that Benchmade is discontinuing all the other steels for the 710 except for the D2 version. If you decide later you will want a D2 version it will be available. I'd recommend the BK1 coated blade for your environment. It scratches up, shows wear, and generally looks beat up compared to the shiny smooth uncoated blades but protects your blade. 154CM is a very fine steel and I don't think you will be disappointed. Most people using a knife for casual light duty can't really tell the difference in the different steels performance.

Spec's from the Benchmade website:
http://www.benchmade.com/about_knives/our_blades.asp

*154CM*- An American made premium grade stainless steel originally developed for turbine blades in jet engines. The predecessor to ATS-34, which has now seen a strong resurgence in the knife market. Good corrosion resistance with excellent toughness and edge quality. 

*D2*- An air-hardened tool steel, which offers good corrosion resistance and excellent mileage in wear resistance. A good choice for hard use environments. 

*440C*- A high-chromium stainless steel with an excellent balance of good hardness and excellent corrosion resistance. 440C takes a nice edge and comes back fairly easy as well. An excellent value priced steel for its performance.


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## TonkinWarrior (Mar 13, 2006)

Good post, NotRegulated. Your knife/steel expertise is apparent.

I concur with your recommendation of the 154CM version of the 710 for Chamenos. The slight edge-retention advantage of the D2 steel would most likely be negated by Singapore's high humidity doing a rust-job on it over time.

My 154CM 710 is a great knife. It's a real low-maintenance workhorse and it's relatively easy to sharpen. 

Kudos, also, to GarageBoy and Ghostrider for the guidance re using the Sharpmaker correctly.


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## Santelmo (Mar 13, 2006)

Just wanted to applaud your knife choice! The 710 is already somewhat of a "modern classic" and many knife knuts consider it one of, if not, Benchmade's flagship model. I myself would like to own one someday.


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## rscanady (Mar 13, 2006)

Wish i could help but I only own the 710 in M2 steel. Sounds like you may want to stick to the 154CM as a more general purpose and more corrosion resistant. If you are concerned about edge retention though go with the D2 and purchase a TUff Cloth (I think that is what they are called), or something similar to keep the edge corrosion free.

Ryan


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## chamenos (Mar 13, 2006)

Thanks for all the advise and suggestions; it seems D2 would rust too easily for my liking and I'm not a hard user by any definition, so 154CM it is!

I've just hit the "Buy It Now" button on an eBay auction, after comparing the prices at the online retailers Garageboy suggested (thanks!). Newgraham only accepts money orders/bank drafts from first-time international buyers, and Knifecenter and Knifeworks want ~$30 for shipping. I got mine at a steal for $122.45 ($12.50 shipping) from Tim's Hardware on eBay.

I was considering the Spyderco Pacific Salt as well and in true CPF fashion, I bought both after reading that torture-test thread on the Pacific Salt Ghostrider mentioned! I received the Pacific Salt last week. Whilst it's certainly no where near as pretty or well made (cosmetics-wise) as a Benchmade, I can see how it was built with a different and more utilitarian set of goals in mind, which it has no doubt fulfilled :thumbsup:

I'm new to this hobby, and it has been very interesting learning about the various manufacturers, blade/steel/edge types, sharpening techniques, etc. I initially picked up the 555s as my EDC without the intention of getting myself into yet another expensive predicament, but knives have proven to be just as addictive and interesting as flashlights.

Having got the Spyderco Sharpmaker, I feel half the fun of owning knives is sharpening them. I often cut paper, cardboard or wood with my knives just so I can put a razor edge back on them, after see how well they hold up. I now have a use for all those USPS GPM envelopes I receive my flashlights in. Putting a razor edge back on a knife is fun and fulfilling, and I have the bald "test-sites" on my arms and legs to prove it 

I'll probably post my first impressions on the 710 once I receive it in the mail. It's going to be a long week for sure....


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## chmsam (Mar 13, 2006)

I have many knives and those come in many different steel types. Stainless is really "stain resistant." Any steel can stain and eventually rust or at least develope pitting.

154CM will hold an edge for quite a while, but my next knife will probably be D2, if not a custom made blade of 52100. These are carbon steels and, yes, will need a little more care. These steels hold an edge longer and will stand up to a higher degree of really hard use than stainless blades. They will flex more before they break. They will tend not to chip out the edge as much as stainless. You should understand that under normal use a knife should never break or chip. Carbon steels with a proper heat treatment will take a bit more abuse. You can beat on them and abuse them more than stainless.

The extra care that is need is to wipe them down once in a while. My collectible knives get wiped down once every few months (they are in storage and not carried). My knives for carrying get wiped down about once a month, usually when I either strop them or sharpen them. I wipe them down when I clean the blades and the pivots and locks

Just wipe the knife down with a little oil. Use only food grade mineral oil if it will ever be used with food. I use a Sentry Solution Tuf-Cloth since I don't use most of my pocket knives for food. I find that it really isn't too much extra care.


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## GarageBoy (Mar 13, 2006)

Don't forget, BM likes to run their edges a little thick, so your first time resharpening, you might have to remove a little more metal.


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## chamenos (Mar 14, 2006)

Chmsam, I haven't had to wipe down my 555s with any oil, but I regularly clean the blade of any residue that might cause corrosion and drip some Breakfree CLP in the pivot and lock mechanism. So far so good. I have noticed that the Breakfree leaves a sort of yellow residue as it dries up though; is that bad for the knife in any way?

I'm still an amateur with sharpening, and I've noticed that the angle of the edge I put on both sides of my knife varies slightly. I only realized I was rounding the tip by sliding the blade off the stones after I'd already done so. Nothing severe though; the damage will probably go away with a few more sharpenings. Garageboy, how do I avoid sliding the tip of the knife off the stone if I use the edges of the sharpmaker stones?

By the way, I was considering both the Benchmade 710 and Spyderco Military when deciding which higher-end production folder I wanted, and the 710 won due to looks and the axis lock. Assuming both knives had the same blade steel of your choice, which would you all have chosen?


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## flashlight (Mar 14, 2006)

chamenos said:


> Thanks for all the advise and suggestions; it seems D2 would rust too easily for my liking and I'm not a hard user by any definition, so 154CM it is!
> 
> I've just hit the "Buy It Now" button on an eBay auction, after comparing the prices at the online retailers Garageboy suggested (thanks!). Newgraham only accepts money orders/bank drafts from first-time international buyers, and Knifecenter and Knifeworks want ~$30 for shipping. I got mine at a steal for $122.45 ($12.50 shipping) from Tim's Hardware on eBay.
> 
> ...



I know how you feel chamenos. Reading threads like this doesn't help either , gotta hold myself back. Worse still I've just recently placed a pre-order for a M2-Steel Version Mini-RSK Mk1 HS & am thinking of getting one of the new Leatherman knives in 154CM. :sweat:

Is M2 steel like D2 steel?


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## chamenos (Mar 14, 2006)

Cyril, are you considering a BM 710 as well?

From what I've read about the various carbon steels, M2 is tougher than D2, but is also more susceptible to corrosion.

Which knife do you EDC?


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## flashlight (Mar 14, 2006)

chamenos said:


> Cyril, are you considering a BM 710 as well?
> 
> From what I've read about the various carbon steels, M2 is tougher than D2, but is also more susceptible to corrosion.
> 
> Which knife do you EDC?



Nope, I prefer a blade less than 3" that'll look less aggressive.  

Yeah, so I realized now.  Perhaps I should change to just the original S30V blade version. :thinking:

Right now just a Boker Ceramic Gamma B-88 but might want to get a Leatherman e307x with 154CM steel blade for on belt open EDC next to my LionCub in Surefire holster. If stopped I'll just say it's my multi-tool for work.


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## NewBie (Mar 14, 2006)

Looked this up the other night for someone....


D-2 is a high carbon tool steel that has a high chromium content. The chromium in this alloy is almost high enough to classify it as a stainless steel. It offers better rust and stain resistance than the above alloys, but it will still rust easily compared to true stainless steel. This alloy is one of the finest steels produced in terms of edge retention.

154 CM is no longer used in government specified applications and is not the vacuum melt product that we once appreciated. 154cm is a stainless steel with very high carbon content, giving it a high hardness rating and very good edge retention.


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## chmsam (Mar 14, 2006)

chamenos said:


> Chmsam, I haven't had to wipe down my 555s with any oil, but I regularly clean the blade of any residue that might cause corrosion and drip some Breakfree CLP in the pivot and lock mechanism. So far so good. I have noticed that the Breakfree leaves a sort of yellow residue as it dries up though; is that bad for the knife in any way?



I find that almost all lubes/protectants leave at least a bit of residue. I've used Breakfree CLP for a long time and haven't yet seen any problems. Be sure to shake the bottle/can to get it all into suspension before you use it. 

White Lightning makes a spray cleaner that removes all sorts of stuff from blades. I use it to clean off everything from bits of tape left over from opening boxes to the Renaissance Wax I use to protect the few really collectible blades I have. I then use either a Sentry Solutions Tuf-Cloth or more Ren. Wax to protect the blade or a wax based lubricant to lube and also protect the pivots and locks from dirt. This goes for either stainless or high carbon blades.


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## Dan_GSR (Mar 15, 2006)

chamenos I just used buy it now on the same knife from the same seller

I really wanted a 710HS , but no one has those anywhere in stock.


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## rscanady (Mar 15, 2006)

154CM- An American made premium grade stainless steel originally developed for turbine blades in jet engines. The predecessor to ATS-34, which has now seen a strong resurgence in the knife market. Good corrosion resistance with excellent toughness and edge quality.

S30V- An American made and developed premium grade stainless steel created especially for knives. It is a powder made steel with uniform structure and clean steel properties. As a blade it offers excellent corrosion resistance and excellent edge qualities.

D2- An air-hardened tool steel, which offers good corrosion resistance and excellent mileage in wear resistance. A good choice for hard use environments.

440C- A high-chromium stainless steel with an excellent balance of good hardness and excellent corrosion resistance. 440C takes a nice edge and comes back fairly easy as well. An excellent value priced steel for its performance.

M2- A very tough, tool grade high-speed steel used primarily as a cutting steel in the industrial area. It offers excellent strength and wear resistance. Due to its make up, it is highly susceptible to corrosion, so we always apply our BT2® coating for corrosion resistance. An excellent choice for hard use environments. 


In short M2 can be sharpened to a much narrower angle giving truly a "razors" edge and still hold up, but the trader off is its susceptibility to corrosion. I just use a tuff cloth on mine occassionally and have no problems yet (then again I dont play with it in the ocean either!).

Hope this helps.


Ryan


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## flashlight (Mar 15, 2006)

Thanks for the info Ryan. I'm really thinking I should reconsider my order for the M2 Ritter as it can get really humid & damp here in Singapore. :sweat: 

So I'm guessing that 420 stainless steel is a lesser quality steel then.


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## jar3ds (Mar 15, 2006)

in practical use... M2 steel is the only blade steel that I have seen hold an edge for a VERY long time... my other knife S30V got dull fairly fast... 

my friend has a D2 blade... it wasn't as tough as M2 but its pretty good


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## GarageBoy (Mar 15, 2006)

On the sharpmaker, stop before you reach the tip and just switch to the flats on the 710. On something like a hawkbill, just just gotta be careful and slow. 
S30V takes a VERY fine edge, finer than the coarse grained D2 ever will.
M2 is a high speed steel meant to hold its temper even when red from cutting through other metals. 

420J2 is junk, for the most part, not to be confused with 420HC which is an acceptable entry level steel. 

Drop by bladeforums.com when you do get a 710 =D


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## flashlight (Mar 16, 2006)

Hmm, I don't know if the 420 Leatherman uses for their cheaper knives is 420HC or 420J2? :shrug: 

This is what their FAQ says - What kind of steel do you use? 
Leatherman tools are made of 400-series stainless steel. Carbon content and heat-treated hardness vary depending on the specific implement.

Maybe I'll send them an email?


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## Samoan (Mar 16, 2006)

My 710, in ATS-34, was stolen a couple years ago. I loved that knife. I have other knives but none measured up to that old 710. Every now and then I consider replacing it but just can't seem to pull the trigger.

I did get one of the Cabella's Griptillians in D2 and love it although I had a bad accident with it today (reached into a bag and somehow the knife had opened slightly and it took the skin off a knuckle almost down to the bone.)

-F


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## Dan_GSR (Mar 16, 2006)

420 isn't so great
its resistant to rusting, but doesn't hold an edge very well


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## flashlight (Mar 16, 2006)

Dan_GSR said:


> 420 isn't so great
> its resistant to rusting, but doesn't hold an edge very well



Well guessed as much. Basically you pay more for better quality. l was leaning more towards the 154CM Leatherman e307x anyway.

Another newbie question - which type of lubricant is better for knives - petroleum-based, silicon-based or wax-based?


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## Dan_GSR (Mar 16, 2006)

I use this stuff

http://www.militec-1.com/

works amazing on pivots


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## StoneDog (Mar 16, 2006)

D2 is a semi-stainless. Steels have to have, what, 13% chromium to be considered stainless. Someone check me, but D2 is somewhere between 10% and 12%. True carbon steels like 1095, 5160, 52100, M2, etc have considerably less chromium (if any).

I've carried a Queen D2 dogleg jack (great little knife BTW) for a couple of years and have seen ZERO rust. Somehow a mild stain made it's way onto the main blade in the form of a slightly noticeable dull gray patch. But, no rust - and this knife has been carried in high humidity environments AND fresh water fishing trips. It will take a very nice edge and hold it longer than my ATS-34 knives. I have a CPM-440v knife that may hold an edge long but it is a real PITA to sharpen, so I don't use it very much.

Anyway, don't knock D2 - it's still one of the best blade steels out there. 

Jon


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## GarageBoy (Mar 16, 2006)

And many makers' favorite..=]


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## leukos (Mar 17, 2006)

I have the M2 and ATS-34 versions of the 710, I might have to pick up one of the new D2 ones too; a well conceived knife.


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## chamenos (Mar 18, 2006)

Cyril, I'm not sure if I'm going to EDC the 710 actually. Even if I do, it won't be all the time due to its size. My 555s has served me well thus far. It's important to realize I bought it to satisfy a craving, rather than a real need (same for flashlights). I'll think of uses for it after I get it 

Depending on what you're going to use the Mini-RSK for, the M2 steel's susceptibility corrosion might justify itself if the edge-retention is important enough to you. If not, s30V sounds like it might be a better choice.

Dan, I was wondering who snapped up the remaining 710! Have you received yours yet? Assuming the seller shipped it out in 1-2 days, I should be receiving mine in the next few days.

I'm actually a registered member at bladeforums, but all I do is lurk. I didn't want to make a nuisance of myself by posting newbie questions, so I'll probably start posting when I actually have something useful to say 

I might just have to get another 710 in D2 or a Spyderco Tasman Salt...


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## SJACKAL (Mar 19, 2006)

From Singapore here too and I wouldn't worry too much about humidity causing rust on M2. First of all Benchmade BT coats it, second you probably would be using some sort of lubricant/rust inhibitor on it, thus moisture in the air won't hurt. Unless you use it in marine related stuff, (fishing, boats, etc) then you should consider salt knives, coz even stainless rust like hell. Third, EDC a knife locally is risking trouble with the strict laws of our country, so I assume most of us buy for the fun/fascination of it and the knife stays at home, so where's the rusting issue? 

Thumbs up on the breakfree white lightening too, locally, it used to be available from Sngarms but after Sngarms winded up, now you can only try bicycle shops. I use Corrosion X for lubricating my folders, its cheap and good.

M2 resharpening is hard work, I recently reprofiled the blade to 17 deg using a Lansky system. It took me several hours and clogged up my coarse stone, but I think its easier than the sharpmarker for reprofiling and it won't round up the tip.

I urge you to get the M2 version if you are considering the 710. Its a classic!


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## smoking (Mar 19, 2006)

hi to all singaporeans who have foldable knives, do u guys get the knives over the net or from local shops.? do u have a problem with customs when ordering from overseas ? i like to get a benchmade mini griptilian over the net.


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## SJACKAL (Mar 19, 2006)

I gotten mine from local licensed dealers.


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## smoking (Mar 19, 2006)

SJACKAL said:


> I gotten mine from local licensed dealers.



mind revealing where? or thru PM . :rock::help:


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## SJACKAL (Mar 19, 2006)

Sheares and Sngarms, with Sngarms gone, now left with Sheares only. Might have more dealers, but I am not aware. Please ask for details at the Singaporean thread over at the Cafe sections.


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## flashlight (Mar 19, 2006)

Try Sheares Marketing but it would probably be cheaper from overseas online stores.


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## smoking (Mar 19, 2006)

SJACKAL said:


> Sheares and Sngarms, with Sngarms gone, now left with Sheares only. Might have more dealers, but I am not aware. Please ask for details at the Singaporean thread over at the Cafe sections.



i was roaming around at beach road army market for soup tulang few days back and i saw sngarms was back in business. they are selling old stocks and their shop has shrunk. their stuffs packings are yellowish and dusty. not sure if there are any discounts though.

any others who have purchaased online before?


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## SJACKAL (Mar 19, 2006)

Personally, I have no qualms about purchasing online, especially for my lights, and even expensive stuff like watches. But with knives I am uncomfortable coz they might not arrive, confiscated by customs, etc. If you do want to try online check properly on what's legal and what's not. For example if you attempt to buy a balisong or switchblade/autoknife, which are scheduled weapons under our laws, it will most probably be confiscated and you be questioned here and there by the cops. The nice tactical looking folder knives may also be viewed as a weapon too, depending on their interpretation. So I stick to licensed dealers like sheares and won't have to bother with all the hassles. If you are wondering about legality, a good forum to go to is britishblades.com we have similar laws as them, except that we are probably even much stricter.


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## smoking (Mar 19, 2006)

same thoughts about worrying the knife won't show up. i'm just interested in folding knives for general use. not interested in balisong, keris and all that. i could easily brought them in thru malaysia or thailand with my bike.


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## chamenos (Mar 19, 2006)

My Benchmade 555s and Sharpmaker was purchased from Sheares, but I got my Spyderco Pacific Salt through eBay. It was shipped via USPS GPM, and it arrived just as quickly as my lights. It would probably help to have it described on the green customs sticker as a "pocket tool" or some other euphemism. Shipping it via normal post (USPS, Singpost) instead of a courier service would help as well. You'll have to decide if the savings you get from purchasing a particular knife online is worth the risk of having it seized by customs.

I carry my 555s on a regular basis, and I've had no trouble whatsoever. The only interaction I have with the police are at road blocks when I'm out late, and even then I've always been waved through. The dimunative size and friendly looks of the 555s probably help as well, and I've used the knife in public without incident, though I wouldn't count on that alone to keep me out of trouble. Knowing when and when not to have a knife on your person would be the best defence against having your knife confiscated, getting detained, or both.

In addition to the humid climate here, I have sweaty palms which make anything I touch more prone to rusting or tarnishing. Having to wipe down the edge of a M2 blade is more maintenance than I would be comfortable with. IMHO, keeping the blade free of debris and residue should suffice; I would consider anything more as being high-maintenance 

By the way, I get my Breakfree CLP free of charge from the armoury in my camp


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## smoking (Mar 19, 2006)

i got no problems if the police were to question me about the possesion of a pocket knife but i don't really trust customs. i have made enquiries about 3 times with customs and i got 3 different answers. they wouldn't waana commit themselves as well.and as usual i was also refered to CID's arms and explosive section. i guess this is a bit of grey area for them.
i may give it a shot at ordering it over the net and i got my LM charge Ti through ebay without any problems.
guess i got to tell the seller to declare it as a pocket tool.
sorry to the thread starter for hi jacking this thread and for going off topic.
sorry. :buddies:


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## SJACKAL (Mar 19, 2006)

chamenos said:


> I carry my 555s on a regular basis, and I've had no trouble whatsoever. The only interaction I have with the police are at road blocks when I'm out late, and even then I've always been waved through. The dimunative size and friendly looks of the 555s probably help as well, and I've used the knife in public without incident, though I wouldn't count on that alone to keep me out of trouble. Knowing when and when not to have a knife on your person would be the best defence against having your knife confiscated, getting detained, or both.



Yes, it is very situational/circumstantial based. Ending up at the wrong place, wrong time, with the wrong people and wrong events might result in an arrest. Might or might not get charged in court eventually but my personal view is that its not worth the risk and the subsequent trouble of giving statements and explaining. Hence after weighing the pros and cons, a multitool serves better for my situation. My brother is serving in MINDEF too but he leaves his knives in his base.



chamenos said:


> In addition to the humid climate here, I have sweaty palms which make anything I touch more prone to rusting or tarnishing. Having to wipe down the edge of a M2 blade is more maintenance than I would be comfortable with. IMHO, keeping the blade free of debris and residue should suffice; I would consider anything more as being high-maintenance



I guess I am biased to the M2 steel's marriage to 710, its a classic.  I probably won't have anything to say if its not 710.


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## flashlight (Mar 20, 2006)

SJACKAL, is your latest acquisition today an M2 or D2 blade? :naughty:


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## SJACKAL (Mar 20, 2006)

M2


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## flashlight (Mar 20, 2006)

SJACKAL said:


> M2



:thumbsup: Don't forget to take some nice pix to show us soon.


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## flashlight (Mar 22, 2006)

flashlight said:


> Hmm, I don't know if the 420 Leatherman uses for their cheaper knives is 420HC or 420J2? :shrug:
> 
> This is what their FAQ says - What kind of steel do you use?
> Leatherman tools are made of 400-series stainless steel. Carbon content and heat-treated hardness vary depending on the specific implement.
> ...



Sorry for the slight OT but I got a reply from Leatherman on this in case anyone else apart from myself might be interested to know  -

Dear Sir, 

Thanks for your email and interest in Leatherman Tools. Regarding your question below please note the following: 

We use 420 High Carbon (HC). 

This is a grade of 420 SS with .40-.45% carbon content. We harden and temper them to Rockwell C 55. 

420J2 is a Japanese steel with very similar properties to 420HC. It has a little less carbon and little more chrome, but after hardening and tempering (difference schedule than 420HC), you get a similar final product. We do not use this in our knives today.

Hopefully that answers your question 

Kindest Regards 

Alex Frio 
Leatherman Tool Group, Inc.


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## Dan_GSR (Mar 22, 2006)

chamenos said:


> Dan, I was wondering who snapped up the remaining 710! Have you received yours yet? Assuming the seller shipped it out in 1-2 days, I should be receiving mine in the next few days.




got mine today
but its a D2 steel model

I am not happy

Auction specifically says it is 154cm, and thats what I wanted


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## flashlight (Mar 23, 2006)

Dan_GSR said:


> got mine today
> but its a D2 steel model
> 
> I am not happy
> ...



So you going to return it? I doubt they'll have one in 154CM to exchange it with.


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## Dan_GSR (Mar 23, 2006)

seller said he would give me a refund
stupid me, I forgot that my local dealer has one in 154cm
but doesn't matter, because I went and got a 806 recently , and I like it A LOT
more than the 710 I think


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## chamenos (Mar 23, 2006)

Dan, that's not good  I haven't received mine yet, but if you have already received yours then I should soon. I'll let you know if mine turns out to be the D2 model as well...


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## flashlight (Mar 23, 2006)

Dan_GSR said:


> seller said he would give me a refund
> stupid me, I forgot that my local dealer has one in 154cm
> but doesn't matter, because I went and got a 806 recently , and I like it A LOT
> more than the 710 I think



And they say women are fickle? :laughing: Isn't that in D2 as well? :thinking:


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## chamenos (Mar 23, 2006)

The D2 blade of the 806 is coated, but the 710 Dan_GSR and myself ordered are not. If I was going to get a 710 in D2, I would have gotten one with a coated blade. Benchmade shouldn't have discontinued the 710 in 154CM, if the "upgrade" to D2 without a coating as standard, means a higher susceptibility to corrosion.


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## flashlight (Mar 23, 2006)

I see. 

Winston, perhaps you should ask Dan to ask his local dealer to reserve that 154CM 702 for you then.


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## Dan_GSR (Mar 23, 2006)

chamenos said:


> The D2 blade of the 806 is coated, but the 710 Dan_GSR and myself ordered are not. If I was going to get a 710 in D2, I would have gotten one with a coated blade. Benchmade shouldn't have discontinued the 710 in 154CM, if the "upgrade" to D2 without a coating as standard, means a higher susceptibility to corrosion.




exactly my thoughts

I wish the M2 was still available, thats what I really want


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## ginaz (Mar 24, 2006)

do bear in mind that the satin finish on the blade makes it more resistant to corrosion that if the same blade had a bead-blast finish.


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## chamenos (Apr 2, 2006)

I've received the 710, and it was indeed the new version with the D2 blade. I was going to trade it for a 710 with 154CM steel, but after a few days of treating it like I do with my 555s, the blade showed no signs of corrosion despite my sweaty palms.

So far I really like this knife. The ergonomics and looks are great; The only thing that bothers me is the thumb-stud. I would definitely prefer a thumb-hole, even if it was an oval non-spyderco hole, like on my 555s.

The 806D2 Axis looks really appealing, too bad it's no longer in production. Any idea why Benchmade stopped production? Seems perfect in almost every way...


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