# I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. 27LT added and NOW the SS Civictor



## qarawol

*I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters...*

I thought I would share another talent of mine besides spending money on Flashlights.

I make my own leather goods. All of these have been hand designed, scissor cut from a large hide, hand stitched and stained. I have also have made custom ones for co-workers and friends.

First we have here the one that I made for one of my (work) EDC, the Surefire 9N. The holster has three snaps in a triangular fashion, pivoting in the middle, that I can rotate it 360 degrees and lock it in at 90 degree increments. This lets me carry the Flashlight vertically or horizontally. Face it forward to use as a walking light or reverse with a red filter as a tail light.  I can even invert it to see my shoes or feet if I care to. There is even a notch in the back for the pant belt loop to prevent it sliding along the belt.















This next sheath is for my Schrade PH2. I have looked high and low for this knife many years ago for I liked the shape and style. This holster is one of my panicle leather making career ones. This is a horizontal only carry for right hand use, since I am right handed. I have this right in front and it is very tight against the body. No bending restriction of it poking me in the front or side or..? The unique thing on this holster is that I placed two flat rare earth magnets within the sheath that gives the knife a smooth friction fit. The magnets are covered so that they do not scratch the blade and are strong enough that they can hold the knife in place inverted without the retainer strap. The back side has three strips to insert the belt through. The pant belt loop can be placed between them to prevent it from sliding along the belt.















Next is the one for my Emerson/Neeley SPECWAR knife. The slots on the tip of the sheath are for a leg strap or invert shoulder carry. This too can be carried vertically on the belt or horizontally in the back. My design was to keep it tight against the body should you wear it on the back belt line. The two silver dots are screws that can secure this sheath to other leather straps, change the carry angle or secure it to other gear.














This one is for my Cold Steel Magnum Tanto II with San Mai blade. Right hand, vertical only and very tight to the body.















Necklace style carry or vertical belt. Pictures will explain. They both are ambidextrous and can be carried inverted, necklace style or use the belt loops for vertical belt carry. The folder is a Cold Steel w/San Mai Blade and the red handled one is a Klein wire stripper knife. Close up ones of the Cold Steel shows how the knife can be turned as well as the retaining strap. Notice the sheath looks like it is shaped for a double edged knife. That is made to accommodate the knife in either direction.






















For the H&K P7M13 9mm Semi-Auto. The top one is for inside the pant carry. It has a coating between the layers to prevent or reduce body moisture soaking through. The other is for small of the back carry.





The SIG P226 9mm ambidextrous leg holster with one magazine pouch. Notice the magazine pouch can be opened from both sides. The strap can be reversed also.





Colt Combat Commander Enhanced 45ACP inside the pant.





I already have some SPECIAL design holsters for Flashlights in mind and I am waiting to receive my HDS U60 to make it. You ougt to see the ones I made for my Benchmade Bali-Song and my Swiss multi tool. Y’all not ready for those yet.

I am an Electrician by trade and I have made the ULTIMATE tool pouch. I call it my tool system. No one has one like it and one must appreciate the electrical trade and leather work to its fullest to really understand its design. Do I dare show it?? I even made a cordless drill cross-draw chest holster for an ex co-worker. I have too see if I can still get a hold of him for a picture.

No special request at this time. I am not ready.

I just thought I would waste your time again.

Njoy…


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## Sub_Umbra

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*

Nice.


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## jds009

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*

Another nice man


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## Bloodnut

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*

Okay, I'll say it: somewhat coarse in the area of fit & finish.

BUT, I see a great deal of forethought in the design. Function over form as it were. I really like how there is not excess/wasted material in the sheaths. That is a tough thing to accomplish. And, you got what you want. Let me guess, you started this because no one made what you wanted. Good on you! Lastly, you've got some big 'uns to post your work on the web. I've got a couple of IWB 1911 holsters that I made but I have not posted them anywhere because I did not want to get drilled! I like em.


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## parnass

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*

qarawol,

Please indulge this question from someone who has no leatherworking experience. How did you make the holes in the leather before sewing the pieces together? Thanks.


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## Sub_Umbra

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*



> ...I see a great deal of forethought in the design. Function over form as it were. I really like how there is not excess/wasted material in the sheaths. That is a tough thing to accomplish. And, you got what you want. Let me guess, you started this because no one made what you wanted. Good on you!...


Yes, all of that. It is obvious that you know what you want and know how to get there. You have a _hyper-3D_ understanding of what you need. Your stuff shows a more complete understanding than many commercial products.

Please excuse my earlier one word reply but I had to get out of the house.


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## greenlight

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*

That stuff looks very useable.


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## Sub_Umbra

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*



parnass said:


> qarawol,
> 
> Please indulge this question from someone who has no leatherworking experience. How did you make the holes in the leather before sewing the pieces together? Thanks.


To me, it looks like he used a *Speedy Stitcher Sewing Awl* which makes it's own holes as you sew a lock stitch. The SSSA also uses a higher quality thread than any other similar device.


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## Ledean

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*



greenlight said:


> That stuff looks very useable.


 
And very durable..


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## qarawol

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*



parnass said:


> qarawol,
> 
> Please indulge this question from someone who has no leatherworking experience. How did you make the holes in the leather before sewing the pieces together? Thanks.




By using a rotary leather punch tool -see picture below-. 
Every hole on both pieces, sometimes three to four pieces of leather has to punched one layer at a time. I hand sew everthing with a needle and thread.






Njoy...


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## lukus

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*

Those look good. 

Using a punch to do the holes can take forever. Glue it all up first with rubber cement, then drill the holes instead of punching them. A 1/16" bit in a dremel will go pretty quick.

Only trying to be helpful.


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## parnass

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*



qarawol said:


> By using a rotary leather punch tool -see picture below-. ...



Thanks for the info.


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## RA40

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*

Leather working is fun. Many of my knifemaking buddies detest it but to me, it is one of the more enjoyable and easier tasks in the process. I do simple sheaths and drilling each hole and hand stitching is relaxing. YMMV. I wouldn't mind having a Tippmann Boss Hand Stitcher at certain times.


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## Sharpdogs

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*

Impressive work. I especially like the sheath for th Schrade knife.


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## swampgator

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*



RA40 said:


> I wouldn't mind having a Tippmann Boss Hand Stitcher at certain times.


The Boss is okay, but if you're going to spend that much money to sew I'd suggest looking for a used Adler. Much, much faster. Of course some of the Ferdco models can be quite affordable new. 

Don't get me wrong, I like Tippmann's products. I learned to sew on an Aerostitch. I just think you don't get anywhere near your money's worth with the Boss.




lukus said:


> Using a punch to do the holes can take forever. Glue it all up first with rubber cement, then drill the holes instead of punching them. A 1/16" bit in a dremel will go pretty quick.


 
A few years back Dusty Johnson did a couple articles in the Leathercrafters Journal about a dremel versus an awl. He tested which was a stronger method. Short of the story the drill makes a better hole that's less likely to pull through and tear. He finished the article by saying something to the effect of: "the only reason old saddle makers used an awl is that they didn't have electric tools."


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## qarawol

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*

Just made for my 27LT...









Njoy...


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## qarawol

Here is the one I just completed for my SS Civictor. Though I am right handed, I have made this for me to be used with my left hand. (since I already have one available for my right). The Flashlight will be carried on the front left side of my belt line. The rear of the Flashlight is tilted upwards at a slight angle for better ergonomics to grab the Flashlight in the “READY TO USE” position right from the draw. 
Example: Take your left hand and place it on the left side of your belt line between the center (pant button) and your left side. Look at the angle of your hand. That is the angle the Flashlight is at (for me anyways). The Flashlight is pulled out and your thumb is already on the button/switch ready to use. 







This is a tight friction fit and I may place a retainer strap on it, though it does not need it. I covered the head completely to give it more surface area for better retention. Also the front of it was given a ‘thong’ look so that you can use the Flashlight while it is still in its holster.

I am REEAAALLY pondering on making these or others available in the future.

Do keep in mind that these will be COMPLETELY CUSTOM made. Tilted for right or left hand use. The ones here shown are for my 1-3/8” width belt. Some may want one for a 1” or need it for a 1.5” or 2” belt. I never did like the vertical play and the flopping around that mass production holsters have for they have to accommodate all belt sizes. Oh Yeah! There is no ristriction of this what so ever, i.e. poking you or getting tilted on your side when you sit down in your car. There is no need to lean to one side to grag it, it will always be ready to use unless you have someone sitting on your lap.




Bloodnut said:


> Let me guess, you started this because no one made what you wanted. Good on you!



‘Bloonut’ you are correct.


Njoy…


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## qarawol

*Surefire M6 Leather Holster*

Just finished!

The ULTRA MINIMUM, Bare, Maximum Exposed, CUSTOM leather holster ever made for the Surefire M6.

This has got to be the slimmest holster ever for the Surefire M6. This is secured to the belt using a leather wrapped belt clip or it can be removed from the clip and attached horizontally or vertically to my Universal Backing for a SUPER SOLID HOLD!!!





















Njoy…


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## qarawol

*'ARC mania' Mega Micro Leather Case*

This is what is involved in making an 'ARC mania' Mega Micro Leather Holster. Everything is completely HAND made, cut one piece at a time, sewn, dyed (optional), finishing touches until the final product.


All pieces are measured, one at a time (no cookie cutter here)...








I use contact cement on the stitch lines...








Pulling a needle through 3 layers of leather is no easy task. I have broken many needles...








One side stitched...







2nd stitch line alignment...








Hand sewn. Yep! still the same gloves...








This shows how I just don't form the leather to fit right away...








I have to stretch fit AFTER SEWING to make my holsters work. The Surefire 3P body is 1" in diameter. The Mega Micro is a bit over 1.25" due to knurling. See how even 1" is still too small to "just fit". This requires a lot more work and I think I am the only one that does this. Besides, look at the backing, the Flashlight body or head wrap on my leather holsters don't ever rarely exceed the width of the backing. Clearly showing that it is not just wet molded. I can't even clamp my leather work before stitching due to the tension of the leather. My stitch lines are usually under the body or head and I stitch the entire length. Also, look how close I am to the edge. This makes for an overall smaller holster. Most think my ways of holster making is a waste of time. A holster is a holster as long as it holds what we want. So then a Flashlight is a Flashlight. Yeah Right! We know better. 



Edge beveled...








Sanding the edges...












A few more touches...













And VIOLA! A finished project...


















COMPLETELY 100% HAND MADE! I didn't include the pics of installing the snaps, belt clip or the little leather disc inside to cover the snap to prevent scratching. I still have to sign and date.

There you go folks, all that work (4+ hours) just to make a Custom Leather Holster... EASY! 


Njoy...


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## parnass

Thanks for posting the photos and description of your craftsmanship, qarawol. Very impressive! :thumbsup:


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## ECKO32

Amazing work!!! A man of many talents i see :twothumbs:twothumbs


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## Edwood

Show us your tool belt. :naughty:

Very nice work.

-Ed


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## qarawol

Here are a few more added to the never ending list of SPECIAL CUSTOM Leather Holsters.











The UNIVERSAL no strap friction fit that will work on almost all 1.25" diameter bezels. Including but not limited to the 'ARC mania' line of the Maxlites, Mega Micro and Extreme and also almost all the Surefire 'C' series non shock iso heads with or without the hex. These holsters requires a TWO POUND pull to remove the Flashlight --- And that is after numerous in and outs as well as tilting the Flashlight in all directions while inserting and removing. More pull needed if the one of the hex points hits the backing. I have made two types for high or low carry depending on the OAL of the Flashlight and how you want to carry it. Not complete, still need to do the trim work and add the beam shapers.

If you don't know my holster making by now, I guess I have to restate that I PRE-STRETCH the leather on almost all my holsters. This makes for a much tighter and secure fit and almost virtually eliminates future stretching. Ask someone that owns one to see if the head wrap has gotten wider or post here if you do own one of my creations.



For the Surefire Kroma Mil-Spec...












This holster was designed for left hand use only. As you can see by the angle, the tail is upwards towards the right when worn on the front left side of the belt line. This makes for a more ergonomic grab and go because the hand is naturally at that position if you place your left hand between your pant button and left pocket on your belt line. It also sports a ROTATABLE TWO button snap for a secure hold as well as a full open business end. I've tried a beam shaper in this one and it works great for the white LED but it dims out the colored ones too much, No IR goggles yet to test the IR LED through the beam shaper. This will also fit the Surefire U2 though the strap has to be changed. I also removed the stock clip for I didn't need it with this holster. Besides, if the clip remained and you insert it wrong, it would not snap shut. That too shows you how detailed my holster making is. I could make the strap fit when the clip is at any position though when inserted and the strap is not tight on the clip, the Flashlight will be loose and wobble. Red with black trim is killer looking.



And now for the 'ARC mania' SF-III...


















This is one nice holster even if I have to say so myself. The two tone red w/black trim has to be seen live for the pics just don't show the true beauty. I had to have this holster do the 'auto tilt' thingy. It is just awesome! It too sports the beam shaper window cover, that I am currently using to many of my holsters, to diffuse and spread the beam pattern to a more usable beam for wide area or close up use.


Anyone else use their SF-III on a regular basis?


More to come...


Njoy...


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## qarawol

Has anyone ever saw or used rawhide used as a holster? Rawhide is leather before it is leather as we know it. It is when the skin is taken right off the animal, stretched and hung to dry. No tanning process is used except for bleaching if desired. Bleached rawhide is mainly used for drum heads, lamp shades, shields etc. Anything that requires a stiff semi translucent white material. The tanning process is used to soften, color and make the leather pliable so that we can use it to make holsters, jacket, shoes, etc. 

If you never seen rawhide before it is REALLY STIFF!!! I always wanted to make a holster out of rawhide but was scared due to the fear of it being so stiff and non workable... so I thought!

I asked if plain (non bleached) rawhide was sold in smaller pieces then the entire half a cow. I preferred the non bleached one for it is very translucent, looks semi clear brown and it shows much more characteristics then the plain looking white bleached one. 

Two Leather Store managers never heard of rawhide used for a holster. Well you know me, I had to be different. I wanted to see if it was possible to make a holster out of something unique. Here is a sample of what I have made using small remnants of bleached rawhide. 
















The following pictures shows just how stiff this rawhide is. Look at the above picture again and look at the curvature of the retaining strap. Below are pictures of me holding the Flashlight up gripping just one edge of the strap with a pair of needle nose pliers. 














Look how it doesn't bend much with TWO loaded working Flashlights. The SF-III is no light weight either and it is wearing its holster! Keep in mind that the strap is a mere 1/16th of an inch thick and only 1/2" wide. The head loop alone WITHOUT a flashlight inserted seems like it can withstand maybe 50 pounds + of crushing pressure. I pressed my palm down on it HARD! It compresses to an oval shape and springs right back. THIS IS SOME STRONG STUFF MAYNARD!



Working with this rawhide takes a lot more time. Maybe because it is new to me though I do know it still takes more work since you have to do a few more steps to do what you want it to do. Since I know now how to work with this tuff stuff.... Now to buy the expensive plain rawhide!!!!


Again, more to come...


Njoy...


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## Edwood

Sounds like a neat natural alternative to kydex. 

-Ed


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## RA40

Nice work. :thumbsup:


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## qarawol

Edwood said:


> Show us your tool belt. :naughty:
> 
> -Ed




Are you ready for it Ed????

How many electricians here read this thread?


I just realized that a lot of info regarding the tool system (tool belt) is not listed on my OP.

Here the more info to tease y'all more...

It took FIVE YEARS to determine what tools are REALLY needed during the course of the day on NORMAL SERVICE work. No major new installs, large industrial work etc... just basic service work... troubleshoot, basic new small to medium install, panels, outlets, switches etc. PM work and everything in between. I have all the larger tools though they are not needed during the course of service work.

- I went through three prototypes of holsters (tool system) until this number four one. Maybe add another year or so for trial and error times on the other three

- It all fits in a standard attache case - no not your computer type repair case that holds tools. Remember, this is made of leather and I do wear it.

- It comes apart to separate the two types of tools used in electrical work (think about that a bit)

- I can throw it on a roof or invert it and no tools fall out

- carried on the body like no other tool pouch out there

- It can be released from my body in under ONE SECOND!

- a one second peek and I can see if any tools are missing

- the backing of the main section that holds the primary tools is only 4.25" (108mm) x 6.75" (171mm) and that consists of... wire strippers, arc joint pliers (channel locks), needle nose, diagonal cutters, linemen pliers, screwdrivers (x 3, one main and two trim), utility knife, electrical tape holder.

- the backing of the additional tools is a mere 5.25" (133mm) x 7" (177mm) and holds a lot more tools

- all tools made by Snap-On

- I can fit my ENTIRE tool system less attache case and large meters in a carpenters nail bag.

- much more to share for this Tool System does a lot more.


Again, How many electricians here read this thread? 

This system can't be appreciated without knowledge of the everyday rig-em-roll of electrical work, though other trades may...?


Njoy...


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## qarawol

Looky what I just picked up. A full half side of Rawhide...








See how translucent it is? Even the tile pattern shows through nicely without any back lighting...




















This thing is so stiff that I had to hold the chair down for it pulled it back to the coffee table. It even pulled out from the leg of the coffee table and that is a solid marble top = heavy. When I first started to roll it out, it got away from me, curled back up and slammed on my toes. OUCH!!!

Ya think I can make a holster or two from it? It seems big enough. 'Edwood' mention that this will be a good natural alternative to Kydex. It is stiff like Kydex and very wear resistant yet I can mold it to what I want without a large oven mold making rig.


Let's see what I can come up with this new stuff.


Njoy...


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## JJay03

I need a holster for my 9p .


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## Blackhatch

WOW is all i can say! awesome work man! love the red leather! 

i wanna make a holster for a belt that holds my inova X1 and my casexx 2 blade knife,but its not even gonna compare to these!


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## Shooter928

Wow,the picture of the holster with the surefire g2z is amazing, I would love to have one of those! Any possibility of having one made? The only thing I would like different is a retaining strap with button closure.


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## Milw light

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*



swampgator said:


> The Boss is okay, but if you're going to spend that much money to sew I'd suggest looking for a used Adler. Much, much faster. Of course some of the Ferdco models can be quite affordable new.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I like Tippmann's products. I learned to sew on an Aerostitch. I just think you don't get anywhere near your money's worth with the Boss.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few years back Dusty Johnson did a couple articles in the Leathercrafters Journal about a dremel versus an awl. He tested which was a stronger method. Short of the story the drill makes a better hole that's less likely to pull through and tear. He finished the article by saying something to the effect of: "the only reason old saddle makers used an awl is that they didn't have electric tools."


 I couldn't find a used Adler 205 here if my life depended on it. You seem to have a lot more industrial cylinder arms your way. The best we can hope for here is a 153 Singer.


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## Milw light

*Re: I make my own Leather sheaths and holsters. Warning! many pictures.*

I want to get into leather working for a hobby & make the sheaths holsters etc that the OP does. I tried to buy a Singer 153 cylinder arm 120 miles away & was to pick it up this week but the lady suddenly remembers that it doesn't work right & makes a noise( yeah, you betcha). I don't want to hand sew & turn of the century stitchers go for the price of a used motorcycle so a medium duty cylinder arm will be it.


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