# Rexlight REX2.0 XR-E - Mini Review - With Many Pictures and Beamshots



## whc (Apr 18, 2007)

Just got my Rexlight REX2.0 today. It has bean a long waiting time since it first was announced. Now it is finally here . 

The REX2.0 is a 1xAA or 1x14500 multi stage flashlight using the Cree P4 XR-E LED. The REX2.0 came in a nice gift box, has a OP-Type reflector and includes 4 o-rings (not installed, so you have to do this your self) extra rubber switch cover, and a spacer for using AA batteries (not needed). 

The o-ring is too big for the flashlight, it is worst in the tail end of the flashlight, since the body is bigger in diameter on the head end. Really too bad, should have fitted nicely, hope that Rexlight will corrects this problem, and send new o-rings that fits, to us already bought one. 

The REX2.0 is very small and compact, smaller than the Fenix L1D-CE. Overall it has a very nice finish, and perfect HAIII with no flaws (though darker than the pictures I have seen). 

The UI takes some time to get used to, you have to leave the flashlight on for over 5 seconds to make it turn on to the same mode next time you turn it on. Or else it will go to the next mode the next time you turn it on. The modes goes like this: Low->Medium->High->Strobe->SOS (and then over again). 

The REX2.0 uses PWM to control the modes, that makes it flicker when using the Low or Medium modes. Many don't like this PWM since it flickers, and since Kaidomain wrote in a early review that the end REX2.0 would not have this flicker problem, it is kind of a bummer. But the good side is that you can use all modes using 14500 3.7v Li-Ion battery, and that should only be possible with PWM. I personally don't mind that to much, since i rarely use any other modes than high, and no flicker is detectable in high mode. 

I like this flashlight, it has got a unique UI, it is very small, OP-Type reflector and almost no ring at all, workable modes when using 14500 battery. Though I hope Rexlight will work out the o-ring issue.

Enough reading, now to some pictures .


































From Left: REX2.0, M3, L1D-CE
















With o-rings








Fits AW's protected 14500




Normal AA Ni-Mh








From left: REX2.0, L1D-CE, M3, T5





























Now to some beamshots .

Left: REX2.0, Right: L1D-CE OP, both on low using Ni-Mh 1.2v




Left: REX2.0, Right: L1D-CE OP, both on low using Ni-Mh 1.2v, 2-stops underexposed




Left: REX2.0, Right: L1D-CE OP, both on medium using Ni-Mh 1.2v




Left: REX2.0, Right: L1D-CE OP, both on medium using Ni-Mh 1.2v, 2-stops underexposed




Left: REX2.0, Right: L1D-CE OP, both on high using Ni-Mh 1.2v




Left: REX2.0, Right: L1D-CE OP, both on high using Ni-Mh 1.2v, 2-stops underexposed




Left: REX2.0, Right: M3, both on medium using 14500 Li-Ion




Left: REX2.0, Right: M3, both on medium using 14500 Li-Ion, 2-stops underexposed




Left: REX2.0, Right: M3, both on high using 14500 Li-Ion




Left: REX2.0, Right: M3, both on high using 14500 Li-Ion, 2-stops underexposed





Here you can see an example of the flicker with the PWM, in medium mode





---

Update: Lux readings.

Here is some Lux reading of Overall Output:

_Rexlight REX2.0:_
1xAA Ni-Mh on high: *3810* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh on medium: *810* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh on low: *210* Lux
1x14500 Li-Ion on high: *5550* Lux
1x14500 Li-Ion on medium: *1570* Lux
1x14500 Li-Ion on low: *570* Lux

_Amilite T5:_
1xRCR123A 3.0v on high: *8340* Lux
1xRCR123A 3.7v on high: *10910* Lux
_Fenix L1D-CE:_
1xAA Ni-Mh on turbo: *3990* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh on high: *3770* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh on medium: *1910* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh on low: *430* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh OP on turbo: *4410* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh OP on high: *4030* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh OP on medium: *2060* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh OP on low: *460* Lux
1x14500 Li-ion on turbo: *8240* Lux
1x14500 Li-ion OP on turbo: *8390* Lux
_Led-Lenser Hokus Fokus:_
3xAAA Ni-Mh: *4850* Lux
_Lumapower M1:_
1x18650 XR-E OP on high: *8140* Lux
1x18650 XR-E OP on low: *1640* Lux
2xRCR123A 3.7v XR-E OP: *8950* Lux
1x18650 SSC P4 OP: *5540* Lux
2xRCR123A 3.7v SSC P4 OP: *8230* Lux
_Lumapower Tactical M1:_
1x18650 3.7v OP on high: *7770* Lux
1x18650 3.7v SM on high: *8140* Lux
2xRCR123A 3.7v OP on high: *8130* Lux
2xRCR123A 3.7v SM on high: *8250* Lux
_Lumapower LP-Mini:_
1xRCR123A 3.7v OP: *7810* Lux
_Lumapower M3:_
1xAA Ni-Mh on high: *3640* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh on medium: *1270* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh on low: *40* Lux
2xAA Ni-Mh on high: *4300* Lux
2xAA Ni-Mh on medium: *1310* Lux
2xAA Ni-Mh on low: *350* Lux
1x14500 Li-Ion on high: *5880* Lux
1x14500 Li-Ion on medium: *3020* Lux
1x14500 Li-Ion on low: *690* Lux
1xRCR123A 3.7v on high: *4390* Lux
1xRCR123A 3.7v on medium: *2940* Lux
1xRCR123A 3.7v on low: *680* Lux
_Nuwai X-3:_
2xAA Ni-Mh: *3020* Lux
_Ultrafire WF-500L:_
2x18650 3.7v: *4660* Lux

Here is some Lux reading at 1m in Throw:

_Rexlight REX2.0:_
1xAA Ni-Mh on high: *840* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh on medium: *210* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh on low: *60* Lux
1x14500 Li-Ion on high: *1460* Lux
1x14500 Li-Ion on medium: *460* Lux
1x14500 Li-Ion on low: *160* Lux

_Amilite T5:_
1xRCR123A 3.0v on high: *2520* Lux
1xRCR123A 3.7v on high: *3260* Lux
_Fenix L1D CE:_
1xAA Ni-Mh on turbo: *1460* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh OP on turbo: *1510* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh OP on high: *1410* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh OP on medium: *730* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh OP on low: *170* Lux 
1x14500 Li-ion on turbo: *3150* Lux
1x14500 Li-ion OP on turbo: *2820* Lux
Led-Lenser Hokus Fokus:
3xAAA Ni-Mh: *4460* Lux
_Lumapower M1:_
1x18650 XR-E OP on high: *4820* Lux
2xRCR123A 3.7v XR-E OP: *5500* Lux
_Lumapower Tactical M1:_
1x18650 3.7v OP on high: *4940* Lux
1x18650 3.7v SM on high: *7150* Lux
2xRCR123A 3.7v OP on high: *5070* Lux
2xRCR123A 3.7v SM on high: *7390* Lux
_Lumapower M3:_
1xAA Ni-Mh on high: *1240* Lux
2xAA Ni-Mh on high: *1530* Lux
1x14500 Li-Ion on high: *1980* Lux
1xRCR123A 3.7v on high: *1550* Lux
_Lumapower Lp-Mini:_
1xRCR123A 3.7v OP: *4700* Lux
_Nuwai X-3:_
2xAA Ni-Mh: *1340* Lux
_Ultrafire WF-500L:_
2x18650 3.7v: *4710* Lux

---

Update: Here are some runtimes.

_AW's protected 14500 750mAh_ on High: *2*hours *5*minutes until the protection kicked in. 
_Ni-Mh 2600mAh_ on High: for *1*hour *11*minutes the output was very high
after *1*hours *11*minutes the output was very low (about low mode with fresh cell)
the flashlight finally turned off after *1*hour *35*minutes

---

Update: Posts of interests.

The tailcap disassembled
Let me present Fenix REX2.0
Some wall shots from a distance of about 12-14m
Runtime Plotes from NetKidz


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## LGCubana (Apr 18, 2007)

For your comparison pics, what battery were you using in the L1D CE ?


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## TOOCOOL (Apr 18, 2007)

Very nice pics sir thanks for the mini review


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## Oculus Sinister (Apr 18, 2007)

Thank you for well done pictures and review


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## whc (Apr 18, 2007)

LGCubana said:


> For your comparison pics, what battery were you using in the L1D CE ?


 Ups, forgot to write which batteries I used. It is now updated ...


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## luchs (Apr 18, 2007)

*that's a great review. thank you!!!

*did you test if the reflector fits into the fenix LxD??
(I'm expecting rex 2.o and fenix P3D, perhaps i could switch the reflectors or try the reflector of my LM301 to get a better beam of the fenix light)

:goodjob:


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## Daniel_sk (Apr 18, 2007)

Thank you! Very well done.


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## dardar (Apr 18, 2007)

Thanks for the mini review, nice photos.
<delete edit>
I suppose you used nimh on the 3 lights, rex-l1d-M3 ? 
</delete edit>

Now anyone has seen my rexlight??


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## Flying Turtle (Apr 18, 2007)

Nice review, whc. Thanks for all the hard work. I look forward to receiving my Rexlight. I'm pleased it has a lower low than others.

Geoff


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## ruralott (Apr 18, 2007)

Great job. Thank you very much.


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## whc (Apr 18, 2007)

Oon the REX2.0 vs L1D-CE I used Ni-Mh cells, on the REX2.0 vs M3 I used 14500 cells.


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## whc (Apr 18, 2007)

Just a pic of the tailcap disassembled




With the red switch cover


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## AFAustin (Apr 18, 2007)

whc,

Very nice review and photos, as always. The comparative output readings are especially useful.

Thanks for all your work on this. :thumbsup:


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## whc (Apr 18, 2007)

Now there is another way of "solving" the o-ring issue. Let me present Fenix REX2.0 .


















Yes the Fenix L1T and Rexlight REX2.0 shares the same internally diameters in the head only, so if you like the Fenix better, you can swap LED modules and reflector ...


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## orbital (Apr 18, 2007)

whc, with the tailcap disassembled, did you get a chance to try a primary with the little metal piece included? wondering if it's even necessary. 
If so, could you tell us sequence on installing it?

Thanks


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## LA OZ (Apr 18, 2007)

Looking at the figure. The Amilite T5 is much brighter than the Rexlight on high. Does that mean the T5 is overdriven with higher current? Could this explained the browning? Hmm.

Does the Rexlight get hot quick on high setting?


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## jar3ds (Apr 18, 2007)

very nice review!


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## gunga (Apr 18, 2007)

Great review whc! I'm also wondering if the reflectors are interchangable with the Fenix (and perhaps the M3?). Was it tough to open up the head?
The light looks pretty good, junt wonder about runtimes...


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## atm (Apr 18, 2007)

Great review, thanks whc. Overall I like the light also, although I'm disappointed with the PWM and can't for the life of me see why they made the time required to stay in the current mode so long (5 sec).


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## whc (Apr 18, 2007)

orbital said:


> whc, with the tailcap disassembled, did you get a chance to try a primary with the little metal piece included? wondering if it's even necessary.
> If so, could you tell us sequence on installing it?
> 
> Thanks


 Haven’t tried it yet, don't know what it's good for or where to put it. The flashlight works without a problem with NI-MH, and don't think there should be a problem with primary either (though haven’t tried).


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## whc (Apr 18, 2007)

LA OZ said:


> Looking at the figure. The Amilite T5 is much brighter than the Rexlight on high. Does that mean the T5 is overdriven with higher current? Could this explained the browning? Hmm.
> 
> Does the Rexlight get hot quick on high setting?


 The T5 is overdriven when using Li-Ion Rechargeable cells, don’t know with primary. Would not leave it on for over 5 min or so with RCR123A.


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## whc (Apr 18, 2007)

gunga said:


> Great review whc! I'm also wondering if the reflectors are interchangable with the Fenix (and perhaps the M3?). Was it tough to open up the head?
> The light looks pretty good, junt wonder about runtimes...


The reflector and LED module is only inner changeable with Fenix L1T (or other that shares it's dimensions). Will not work with L1D-CE or M3, these have bigger dimensions than the REX2.0/L1T.

No problem on disassembling the head. Will post some runtimes when I get the time .


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## whc (Apr 18, 2007)

atm said:


> Great review, thanks whc. Overall I like the light also, although I'm disappointed with the PWM and can't for the life of me see why they made the time required to stay in the current mode so long (5 sec).


 Yep 5 sec. is a long time, would be more than enough with some think like 1-2sec.


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## gunga (Apr 18, 2007)

Actually, meant putting a rexlight reflector in a Fenix, somewhat like what you did when you put the M3 reflector in the Fenix.

If I'm reading right, you say the reflector is smaller than the fenix/M3 one?

 




whc said:


> The reflector and LED module is only inner changeable with Fenix L1T (or other that shares it's dimensions). Will not work with L1D-CE or M3, these have bigger dimensions than the REX2.0/L1T.
> 
> No problem on disassembling the head. Will post some runtimes when I get the time .


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## whc (Apr 18, 2007)

gunga said:


> Actually, meant putting a rexlight reflector in a Fenix, somewhat like what you did when you put the M3 reflector in the Fenix.
> 
> If I'm reading right, you say the reflector is smaller than the fenix/M3 one?


If you look at this tipic: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1974356&postcount=14

You can see the REX2.0 reflector and LED module is installed in to the Fenix L1T. The means that the reflector from REX2.0 will not fit L1D-CE or M3, since they use reflector of a bigger diameter than REX2.0 and L1T .


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## gunga (Apr 18, 2007)

Interesting...

Then you could have some fun with the old Fenixes and the Rexlight!

I'll pass on that tho since I don't like the feel of fenixes (too slippery and such).

How does the Rex feel? Do you like the UI?


ALso, thanks again for the GREAT REVIEW!

:rock:


BTW: I did what you suggested and put an M3 reflector in the Fenix L1D, oh man, that makes for a sweet beam and a sweet light! Less throw but soo nice...


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## Flying Turtle (Apr 18, 2007)

I wonder if the Rexlight head will fit on a Civictor body to make a short twisty light (Rextor)? 

Geoff


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## rookie (Apr 18, 2007)

Great review! :thanks:


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## whc (Apr 18, 2007)

gunga said:


> Interesting...
> 
> Then you could have some fun with the old Fenixes and the Rexlight!
> 
> ...


 I like the feel of the REX2.0, you have a nice grip with the "textured" body, and the head is slightly bigger in diameters, so you can feel where you should hold the flashlight (if that makes any sense ). I think the overall finish of the REX2.0 is as good if not a bit better than Fenix. Would not be afraid of getting another Rexlight, maybe they will release a REX2.1, with Digital regulation and with the UI down to only 1.2sec, that would defiantly make me order another one.

The UI is not the best, though better than other multistage flashlights, the fact that it remembers the last modes used is brilliant just what I personally prefers, but time of 5 sec. you have to wait before turning the flashlight off, is a big bit to long I think. Should be between 1-2 sec.

Good to hear, that others also am experiencing the wonder of M3 reflector in L1D-CE .


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## shining (Apr 18, 2007)

Sent request to cancel the order.

1. I thought it is not PWM. Will wait till the frequency is increased
(as in LF2).
2. The "Smart 5 seconds" are not too smart. In my opinion it would have been much better if the algorithm were as
follows:

When key is pressed
If (last time the light was turned off less than 1 second ago) in mode A
Switch in mode Next(A)
Else (Switch in mode the light was left on for more than 5 seconds last time).


Waiting for Rexlight 2.1


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## whc (Apr 18, 2007)

Some wall shots from a distance of about 12-14m.

Rexlight REX2.0, with 14500 Li-Ion, on High





Fenix L1D-CE OP, with 14500 Li-Ion, on Turbo




Rexlight REX2.0, with AA Ni-Mh, on High




Fenix L1D-CE OP, with AA Ni-Mh, on Turbo


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## dardar (Apr 18, 2007)

Thanks for the new wall shot. That L1D CE is impressive on nimh, only a bit dimmer than rexlight on 14500.

Btw do you think it makes sense that on rcr123 rexlight will be brighter? As stated before on kd website?

Thanks
dardar


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## whc (Apr 18, 2007)

dardar said:


> Thanks for the new wall shot. That L1D CE is impressive on nimh, only a bit dimmer than rexlight on 14500.
> 
> Btw do you think it makes sense that on rcr123 rexlight will be brighter? As stated before on kd website?
> 
> ...


 The REX2.0 is brighter in 14500 than on Ni-Mh, though nothing compared to L1D-CE.


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## Daniel_sk (Apr 18, 2007)

Do I have to wait 5 seconds everytime or is it enough to leave it once for 5 seconds on high and it will always start on high (unless I leave it on low or medium for 5 seconds?).


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## PhantomPhoton (Apr 18, 2007)

PWM...

My order has already shipped, or I would cancel. Very disapointing. I'd like to know what frequency these are on, if it's the crappy Jetbeam 60Hz I'm going to be very, very upset.

Beyond that rant though, everything else sounds fine. I'll have to play with the 5-second ui before I make any conclusions about that. I await some runtime tests.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Apr 18, 2007)

Thanks alot for the review! Mine shipped yesterday and I am really looking forward to receiving it!

I always knew that most members disliked PWM, but I had no idea it was hated so badly.


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## whc (Apr 18, 2007)

Daniel_sk said:


> Do I have to wait 5 seconds everytime or is it enough to leave it once for 5 seconds on high and it will always start on high (unless I leave it on low or medium for 5 seconds?).


You have to wait 5 sec everytime, or else it moves on to next mode when you turn it on again.


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## Daniel_sk (Apr 18, 2007)

whc said:


> You have to wait 5 sec everytime, or else it moves on to next mode when you turn it on again.


 
 To the next mode everytime I turn it on? So I will turn it on on low to check something (less then 5 seconds), then turn it off. Next time I turn it on, it will be on Medium, so I have to switch back to low? Do I understand that right? Or does it always start on low setting when turned on?


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## HarveyRich (Apr 18, 2007)

whc: excellent review, especially the comparative parts. I have one question, though. In your beam shots for the Rex v. the L1D-CE it is clearthat the L!D-CE has a brighter spot than the Rex using a NiMH battery (very disappointing) and with 14500 in you charts. It can't be du to the OP reflector, a can it, since both the LID-CE you have and the Rex use OP? Is the Rex just not as efficient as the L1D-CE?


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## mchlwise (Apr 18, 2007)

PhantomPhoton said:


> PWM...
> 
> My order has already shipped, or I would cancel. Very disapointing.



I'm sure you won't have any problem selling them on B/S/T. I have two people who I will be shipping my lights to (at cost) and had more interested.


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## Lighthouse one (Apr 18, 2007)

Thanks for the review....I feel a bit better while waiting for my light. It looks like a good value for the money.


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## FrogsInWinter (Apr 18, 2007)

Thank you for the review and the pics!




Seems like a good light for the money. Hopefully Kaidomain can resolve the o-ring issue as well. Do you think you could measure the Rexlight's output with lithium AA batteries as well? I'd like to see how close a lithium AA battery comes to a 14500 cell. Thanks again.


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## mtn_dance (Apr 18, 2007)

whc said:


> But the good side is that you can use all modes using 14500 3.7v Li-Ion battery, and that should only be possible with PWM.


Excellent review, photos, and beam data!! :twothumbs :bow: 

The quote above is what I was hoping to hear, since I really want these lights to run with RCR123A optional tubes, when they come available. I won't need them until this fall, so I am even more excited about this light.


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## havand (Apr 19, 2007)

Heh, either this thing will have pretty amazing battery life or it is using the least efficient driver ever conceived. Hopefully someone will post a runtime soon


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## saltwater (Apr 19, 2007)

Very impressive review and beamshots. I am confused after looking at the beamshots and both throw and output numbers. From the photos of beamshots the L1D-Ce outperforms the Rexlight at every level and makes the Rexlight look like it uses a Lux-3 instead of a Cree LED. Comparing the output numbers it appears that the high output numbers on the Rexlight are similar to the L1D-Ce. How could the Rexlight look so unimpressive in the photo's against the Fenix yet still show similar output on the specs from testing?

Is there a lot of light going into the spill that doesnt show up in the photo's? 
Also for anyone that has this light is the PWM noticable, if so that will be enough for me to cancel my order.


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## lightbug (Apr 19, 2007)

Kai has posted a time table for Rexlight 2.0 running high mode on both 14500 and NIMH.

http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=1359


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## PhantomPhoton (Apr 19, 2007)

Oh man, again I catch myslef being negative... I'm to picky methinks. Sorry.

Kai's runtime curve seems to show the lights have terrible (no?) regulation. The brightness just drops off like a DD. Please correct me if I'm interpreting this incorrectly. 

Any ideas on the frequency of the PWM yet?


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## Daniel_sk (Apr 19, 2007)

Here are the graphs:










I guess the first one is 14500 and the second NiMH? The second one looks quite OK to me, but the first is like with no regulation.

But the runtime doesn't impress me - well I am quite new here, but I compared it to Fenix L1D CE runtime graphs on NiMH at https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/155819 and L1D CE can run for 2 hours with an output of 60 lumens. This Rexlight runs 45-60 minutes at 60 lumens? Or do I get it wrong?

Another notice from Kai:


Kaidomain said:


> ** Rexlight REX2.0 is not behaving very stable with two AA cells at this moment, please DO NOT try to hock with the Rexlight 2.0 with two AA, until further notice **


 
 That means - forget the 2AA tube?


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## whc (Apr 19, 2007)

Daniel_sk said:


> To the next mode everytime I turn it on? So I will turn it on on low to check something (less then 5 seconds), then turn it off. Next time I turn it on, it will be on Medium, so I have to switch back to low? Do I understand that right? Or does it always start on low setting when turned on?


 Yes if you don't wait for over 5 sec, it will torn on to the next level when turned on again, and if you wait over 5 sec it will remember the last mode used next time turned on.

Lets say you have turned it on to Low, and turns the flashlight off _before_ 5 sec has passed, it will then turn on to Medium next time turned on, and again if you then turn it off _before_ 5 sec, it will go to High next, and so on. But wait _over_ 5 sec and it remembers the last mode used when turning it on next time (and you have to wait over 5 sec every time turned on in order to remember the last mode used).


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## whc (Apr 19, 2007)

HarveyRich said:


> whc: excellent review, especially the comparative parts. I have one question, though. In your beam shots for the Rex v. the L1D-CE it is clearthat the L!D-CE has a brighter spot than the Rex using a NiMH battery (very disappointing) and with 14500 in you charts. It can't be du to the OP reflector, a can it, since both the LID-CE you have and the Rex use OP? Is the Rex just not as efficient as the L1D-CE?


 The L1D-CE is brighter, both with AA and 14500. The L1D-CE is even brighter with the OP-Type reflector, since the original one have bigger space between the LED and reflector, that means you loose some overall brightness and throw.


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## whc (Apr 19, 2007)

FrogsInWinter said:


> Thank you for the review and the pics!
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like a good light for the money. Hopefully Kaidomain can resolve the o-ring issue as well. Do you think you could measure the Rexlight's output with lithium AA batteries as well? I'd like to see how close a lithium AA battery comes to a 14500 cell. Thanks again.


 Don't have any Lithium AA batteries, sorry...


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## whc (Apr 19, 2007)

havand said:


> Heh, either this thing will have pretty amazing battery life or it is using the least efficient driver ever conceived. Hopefully someone will post a runtime soon


 I am in the middle of a runtime test (right now with 14500, will do a Ni-Mh after), though no fancy charts, just the flashlight and a stopwatch ...


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## whc (Apr 19, 2007)

saltwater said:


> Very impressive review and beamshots. I am confused after looking at the beamshots and both throw and output numbers. From the photos of beamshots the L1D-Ce outperforms the Rexlight at every level and makes the Rexlight look like it uses a Lux-3 instead of a Cree LED. Comparing the output numbers it appears that the high output numbers on the Rexlight are similar to the L1D-Ce. How could the Rexlight look so unimpressive in the photo's against the Fenix yet still show similar output on the specs from testing?
> 
> Is there a lot of light going into the spill that doesnt show up in the photo's?
> Also for anyone that has this light is the PWM noticable, if so that will be enough for me to cancel my order.


 The tint of the REX2.0 it very purple, and the tint of the L1D-CE is very white, so the tint makes the REX2.0 looks dimmer than it actually is.


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## atm (Apr 19, 2007)

Daniel_sk said:


> So I will turn it on on low to check something (less then 5 seconds), then turn it off. Next time I turn it on, it will be on Medium, so I have to switch back to low? Do I understand that right? Or does it always start on low setting when turned on?


I frequently use my lights to quickly check something out and then turn it off again, which is why the Rex won't be getting much use. I have no desire to have to switch through all the modes to get back to low. My FF3 has a timeout of 0.7 sec and that is more than enough to chose the mode I want, even with the twisty.

I really like the look and feel of the Rex, the beam quality is good and the switch feels better than the Fenix's I have, but it's destined to be a standby/occasional light for me because of that 5 sec timeout. 

Luckily YMMV of course.


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## atm (Apr 19, 2007)

PhantomPhoton said:


> Oh man, again I catch myslef being negative... I'm to picky methinks. Sorry.
> 
> Kai's runtime curve seems to show the lights have terrible (no?) regulation. The brightness just drops off like a DD. Please correct me if I'm interpreting this incorrectly.
> 
> Any ideas on the frequency of the PWM yet?


Employing the least scientific method available (i.e. holding it together with a FF3 and observing identical stobe pattern when waving them back and forth) I'm *pretty sure* it's 100Hz.


----------



## orbital (Apr 19, 2007)

In looking at the runtime/temp. graphs I was thinking this light get hot...but then one has to factor in the use of copper heatsinking in the light. 
If heat is being properly flowed away from the emitter, the only other place it can dissipate to is the body itself, so .. good.

Outside of the extra modes, MKIIx and the Rex2 are very close, wonder if same factory?

All in all, still jazzed about getting the Rexlight, good & bad, it is what it is,...a good deal.


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## riasa (Apr 19, 2007)

I hope this is the one bad rex2


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## whc (Apr 19, 2007)

Just did a runtime test with AW's protected 14500 750mAh, got *2* hours *5* minutes on High until the protection kicked in.

That’s not bad at all!


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## Phaserburn (Apr 19, 2007)

whc said:


> Just did a runtime test with AW's protected 14500 750mAh, got *2* hours *5* minutes until the protection kicked in.
> 
> That’s not bad at all!


 
Which means that the led is being driven at a gentle 300-350ma or so...


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## lightbug (Apr 19, 2007)

Hi WHC, 

Were you running it on medium mode or high mode on the runtime test?


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## Daniel_sk (Apr 19, 2007)

whc said:


> Just did a runtime test with AW's protected 14500 750mAh, got *2* hours *5* minutes until the protection kicked in.
> 
> That’s not bad at all!


 
What about the regulation - was the light getting gradually dimmer or was it constant? Because when I look at Kai's graph, then it looks, well... awful - with the 14500 cell it should go from 100 lumen to 60 lumen in 15 minutes. This lasts for 30 minutes. Then it drops from 60 to zero in 45 minutes... 

Please do a NiMH runtime test - I am thinking about cancelling my order because of the bad regulation...


----------



## havand (Apr 19, 2007)

I think that is a runtime on a 14500 cell. It'll be nice to have a light that gets some good runtime at the cost of brightness to compliment my insanity for brighter better. Hopefully the regulation is a little flatter than his graphs. Overall, i'm ok with it being less bright. It means I won't have to constantly worry about carrying an extra 14500 cell with me everywhere.


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## Daniel_sk (Apr 19, 2007)

Well, same here - I really like the low setting on rexlight, but I am confused with those graphs - is it really that bad? Even the runtime looks bad, compared to L1D CE - because of the bad regulation. 
I haven't received my light yet, but I am thinking about cancelling my order - it really depends on the regulation/runtime, I don't mind the brightness or PWM. And it seems that the 2x AA tube can't be used. This was going to be my first "real" flashlight (for hiking) - but I think I'll better take the L1D CE (although the low setting is too bright ...).
The way I see Rexlight now - bad runtime (ineffective), bad regulation, no 2x AA tube, Led might have a tint, PWM... Please someone tell me that I am wrong


----------



## psyrens (Apr 19, 2007)

compared to L1D runtime graph on flashlightreviews.com (originally done by chevrofreak)
http://flashlightreviews.com/reviews/fenix_l1dce-l2dce.htm
to me, the runtime graph looks awful...
with NIMH, L1D keep the initial brightness for about 100min,
but rex2.0? 45min?
I could stand pwm with 30$ light, but not for runtime and brightness.
It looks different light than Kai advertised on his website.


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## big beam (Apr 19, 2007)

Well the graph from Kai doesn't seem to be accurate if one of AW's cells runs it for 2+ hours :thinking: :thinking: 

And the regulation on Kai's graph may not be accurate either(I hope)

WE NEED MORE INDEPENDENT TESTING

DON


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## Thujone (Apr 19, 2007)

Those graphs were likely with crap cells... They didn't bother me.


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## Phaserburn (Apr 19, 2007)

Maybe the graph labels were incorrect; 45 mins on an AA is just quite unlikely. It would be drawing over 2A, and I doubt that.


----------



## Weskix (Apr 19, 2007)

Well from this review all I know is I'm glad I didn't spend my 30 dollars on one of those problematic Mini Mags Led lights.


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## whc (Apr 19, 2007)

lightbug said:


> Hi WHC,
> 
> Were you running it on medium mode or high mode on the runtime test?


 On High ...


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## whc (Apr 19, 2007)

Daniel_sk said:


> What about the regulation - was the light getting gradually dimmer or was it constant? Because when I look at Kai's graph, then it looks, well... awful - with the 14500 cell it should go from 100 lumen to 60 lumen in 15 minutes. This lasts for 30 minutes. Then it drops from 60 to zero in 45 minutes...
> 
> Please do a NiMH runtime test - I am thinking about cancelling my order because of the bad regulation...


 Was kind of hard to tell if it was getting much dimmer, did the runtime in daytime, and flashlights always seams quite dim in day time .

But it seamed like it held up in brightness pretty good, was dimmer with time, but didn’t think it was anything out of the ordinary. But with a good output for 2 hours, it is not bad at all.

Will do a Ni-Mh runtime, when I get the time.


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## whc (Apr 19, 2007)

Daniel_sk said:


> Well, same here - I really like the low setting on rexlight, but I am confused with those graphs - is it really that bad? Even the runtime looks bad, compared to L1D CE - because of the bad regulation.
> I haven't received my light yet, but I am thinking about cancelling my order - it really depends on the regulation/runtime, I don't mind the brightness or PWM. And it seems that the 2x AA tube can't be used. This was going to be my first "real" flashlight (for hiking) - but I think I'll better take the L1D CE (although the low setting is too bright ...).
> The way I see Rexlight now - bad runtime (ineffective), bad regulation, no 2x AA tube, Led might have a tint, PWM... Please someone tell me that I am wrong


Wouldn’t get to much in to runtime graphs from Kaidomain, and any other information on that website (much wrong has been said about this flashlight). This is a decent flashlight, with the longest runtime of any other I have tried in its class. The regulation is quite good, it will gets a bit dimmer the more the battery is used, but that is normal. It is well worth the $30 I think. You can always get a bad tint, I see many complain about Fenix's "green" tint, you just never know before you turn it on for the first time, and if I didn’t have anything to compare it to, I wouldn’t have noticed the purple tint at all.


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## big beam (Apr 19, 2007)

Hi WHC
Sorry we keep hounding you for info but it seems like the info is just trickling in .

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR TIME
DON


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## lightbug (Apr 19, 2007)

Thanks WHC, great review!


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## itch808 (Apr 19, 2007)

I finally got around to using my Rexlight, and I don't see what all the fuss is about the PWM. On both LOW and MED the pulsing is completely unnoticable to me. On high it seems about as bright as all my other lights. Overall, I still think it's a pretty good deal.


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## chesterqw (Apr 19, 2007)

meeep...i might be replacing the driver if the brightness/pwm really suck.

heck, might even sell it for some other lights...


----------



## Ty_Bower (Apr 20, 2007)

whc said:


> Yes if you don't wait for over 5 sec, it will turn on to the next level when turned on again...


He's right. That's kind of annoying. It essentially means you must always use your light for at least five seconds. You can't turn it on for just a quick look at something. I also dislike the need to cycle through strobe and SOS to get from high to low.

What's the difference between the red and the orange button? The red one seems like it might be a little stiffer.

Where the heck does the wavy washer go?


----------



## itch808 (Apr 20, 2007)

Ty_Bower said:


> He's right. That's kind of annoying. It essentially means you must always use your light for at least five seconds. You can't turn it on for just a quick look at something. I also dislike the need to cycle through strobe and SOS to get from high to low.



The 5s pause needed doesn't bother me much, I guess it depends on what you're using it for.

Cycling through strobe and SOS does annoy me though since those are mostly just "play" functions to me.


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## whc (Apr 20, 2007)

Don't know if there is any difference between the red and orange rubber cover, I uses the red one, only because I think it looks best.

Well the washer goes nowhere i guess, it works like a charm without, so can't see what Rexlight has included it for.

Yes it is annoying to browse throw the strobe and sos modes, to get to low mode from high, though am getting used to the 5sec waiting before turning it off.


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## NoFair (Apr 20, 2007)

Any updates on NiMH runtimes? 

I'll be using Lithiums and NiMH in these so 14500s aren't that interesting for me. 

Noe nytt fra vår nabo i sør?


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## whc (Apr 20, 2007)

Sorry no runtime on Ni-Mh yet, will try to make time for it tomorrow.

Intet nyt desværre, vil nok få testet den med Ni-Mh i morgen nabo ...


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## NoFair (Apr 21, 2007)

whc said:


> Sorry no runtime on Ni-Mh yet, will try to make time for it tomorrow.
> 
> Intet nyt desværre, vil nok få testet den med Ni-Mh i morgen nabo ...





My order is still collecting from suppliers... 

PS! Takk for bra test av lykten


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## whc (Apr 21, 2007)

I am about done with a runtime of Ni-Mh 2600mAh on high: *1*hour, *11*minutes, after that it was very dim, but still enough to navigate in the dark (maybe like when it is on low). Still testing until it goes off (if it does so within 12 hour)


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## whc (Apr 21, 2007)

Runtime with Ni-Mh 2600mAh is done, here is the result:

Runtime with Ni-Mh 2600mAh on high: for *1*hour *11*minutes the output was very high
after *1*hours *11*minutes the output was very low (about low mode with fresh cell)
the flashlight finally turned off after *1*hour *35*minutes


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## havand (Apr 21, 2007)

Cool. So it is sucking down something like 2.3-2.7A?? Seems high. Will that damage the cell?


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## big beam (Apr 21, 2007)

Boy I was expecting better than that.I mean don't both batts have ABOUT the same watt hrs?

WHC
Is the brightness about the same with either cell?

I just looker up the CLE and that ran for 2 hrs. with a eneloop. :thinking:

DON


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## whc (Apr 21, 2007)

Was also expecting some more runtime, am thinking about trying some Panasonic Ni-Mh cells I have, but they are only 2000mAh. The other 2600mAh I used for the test, is some cheap brand, though the cells should be GP (inside). Maybe also trying some 2500mAh I have.

The flashlight is brighter with 14500 cells.


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## Vikas Sontakke (Apr 21, 2007)

I did some quick checking of battery current with single and double NiMh AA batteries. I also tried with RCR123 rechargeable. The circuit is current regulated. As I added extra battery, input current dropped drastically but the brightness remained the same. I do not have the numbers handy but as far as I could see there was substantial drop in the battery current for 2AA vs 1AA. I see no reason why 2AA tube will not work with this light. You will NOT get extra brightness but the runtime should go up proportionately.

The PWM is not noticeable unless you are specifically looking for it. The tint stays the same for all mode.

If you get hang of "tapping" the switch when the light is on, it is pretty easy to switch modes. The low is nice of indoor night time usage.

All in all, certainly it is a nice light for $30 but I would not be giving the same high praise if it was for $50.

- Vikas


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## whc (Apr 21, 2007)

Just ran the flashlight dead on a Panasonic Ni-Mh 2000mAh battery. I got about the same result: *1*hour *2*minutes the flashlight was getting very dim, after *1*hour *25*minutes, the flashlight went dead.


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## Vikas Sontakke (Apr 21, 2007)

Can you check the battery current? I recall about 1.3A with AA rechargeable but quite less on alkaline in the high mode

- Vikas


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## big beam (Apr 21, 2007)

If it was 1.3A that would mean that it should run for about 2 hrs.(on 2600)
I know PWM can have poor efficiency but thats like 50%.(1 hr on 2600)
DON

MAYBE SOMEONE WHO KNOWS MORE THAN ME ABOUT DRIVERS WILL CHIME IN.


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## adnj (Apr 21, 2007)

Vikas Sontakke said:


> The circuit is current regulated. As I added extra battery, input current dropped drastically but the brightness remained the same.


 
Without trying to make excuses, is this the mysterious "current regulated" that was stated on the KD website?


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## big beam (Apr 21, 2007)

I have 3 of these coming.I guess I'll have to visit AW's thread to get some more 14500's.Maybe the 14500's are better because it's closer to the vf of the LED?

SOMEBODY HEEEEELLLLP me understand this please

DON


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## whc (Apr 21, 2007)

Vikas Sontakke said:


> Can you check the battery current? I recall about 1.3A with AA rechargeable but quite less on alkaline in the high mode
> 
> - Vikas


 How do I do that????

It get very hot on Ni-Mh, så it could be right that the LED is overdriven...?


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## big beam (Apr 21, 2007)

Do you have a DMM?

If it gets very hot with nimh that might mean the driver is very inefficient.(It's wasting energy in the form of heat to bring the battery voltage from 1.2v up to what the LED needs 3.25v or so.


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## whc (Apr 21, 2007)

Yep got a DMM (if you mean Digital MultiMeter)...What now ...?


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## big beam (Apr 21, 2007)

Set the dial to MA.The probes( wires)should be red on left black in center.the other end of the red probe should connect to the head of the light(find some bare al on the head)push the + nipple of the battery to the head where is usually touches the head of the light.the other end of the black probe goes to the - end of the battery.You should get a reading on your meter.

The head should light up if you got it right.You should also get different readings as the light level changes.

DON


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## big beam (Apr 21, 2007)

What you are doing is completeing the circuit that the barrel of the flashlight usually does with the probes.

SO WHAT YA GET FOR A READING?

DON


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## mudman cj (Apr 21, 2007)

Many DMMs have a limited current range for the mA setting. Start with it set to the higher current setting first and only switch over to the mA setting if the reading is within range. The range is usually printed right by the setting. Also, this is only an approximation of how much current the light pulls from the battery when not using the meter, since the meter adds resistance to the circuit and therefore reduces the current draw. But who's splitting hairs?


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## big beam (Apr 21, 2007)

Thanks mudman cj.I forgot not all meters are autoranging.Hope he didn't blow the fuse if it's an older style.  can be a bad thing if you don't have a spare fuse.

DON


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## NetKidz (Apr 22, 2007)

Just finished my runtime test of High and Medium output. The batteries used are AW protected 14500 (750mAh), Eneloop NiMH (2000mAh) and normal Duracell Alkaline (1750mAh discharged at 500mA).

The current draws are:
NiMH: High=2.3A, Medium=0.38A, Low=0.09A
14500: High=0.83A, Medium=0.23A, Low=0.08A
Seems reasonable with my runtime charts. 

It looks regulated well with NiMH. The li-ion 14500 runtimes look like direct drive.(?)

Here's the High output runtime:






And medium output runtime:


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## whc (Apr 22, 2007)

big beam said:


> Set the dial to MA.The probes( wires)should be red on left black in center.the other end of the red probe should connect to the head of the light(find some bare al on the head)push the + nipple of the battery to the head where is usually touches the head of the light.the other end of the black probe goes to the - end of the battery.You should get a reading on your meter.
> 
> The head should light up if you got it right.You should also get different readings as the light level changes.
> 
> DON


 Thanks for the info, always wondered how to do that ...

I get *1.38* with Panasonic 2000mAh Ni-Mh on High (I set the DMM to 20m/20A). And get *0.48* with unprotected 14500, and *0.54* with AW's protected 14500.

So does that means the LED is overdriven with Ni-Mh?

Update: With some 2500mAh Ni-Mh i get *1.65*, and last but not least I get *1.71* with some 2600mAh Ni-Mh on High ...


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## adnj (Apr 22, 2007)

That variation in current for the cells between Netkidz and whc is HUGE. Seems like something funny going on.


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## Phaserburn (Apr 22, 2007)

adnj said:


> That variation in current for the cells between Netkidz and whc is HUGE. Seems like something funny going on.


 
+1


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## Ty_Bower (Apr 22, 2007)

whc said:


> Update: With some 2500mAh Ni-Mh i get *1.65*, and last but not least I get *1.71* with some 2600mAh Ni-Mh on High ...


I'm seeing about 1.8A with a Panasonic 2300mAh NiMH cell. I think your 2000maH cell is old and tired, and can't deliver the juice.


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## big beam (Apr 22, 2007)

Ty_Bower said:


> I'm seeing about 1.8A with a Panasonic 2300mAh NiMH cell. I think your 2000maH cell is old and tired, and can't deliver the juice.
> 
> Thats what my wife said about me!!!
> 
> ...


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## saltwater (Apr 22, 2007)

Thanks guys for all the great info that you provided....it was enough to allow me to make an informed decision and cancel my order for 2 Rexlights. Sounds like there is quite a variance between units. After getting burned on my Jetbeam CE's from Emillion I thought I would order the Rexlights to replace the CE's that I never received. I was hoping for at least Fenix L1D brightness and regulation, but it appears that the Rexlight is outclassed by the Fenix in every way except price. Its hard to believe that Rexlight draws as much amperage as it does on Nimh and isn't considerably brighter than it is. Again thanks to all those here who have taken the time to provide beamshots, reviews, and runtime charts.


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## whc (Apr 22, 2007)

Ty_Bower said:


> I'm seeing about 1.8A with a Panasonic 2300mAh NiMH cell. I think your 2000maH cell is old and tired, and can't deliver the juice.


 Yep, they are not new (about 2-3 years) .


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## whc (Apr 22, 2007)

saltwater said:


> Thanks guys for all the great info that you provided....it was enough to allow me to make an informed decision and cancel my order for 2 Rexlights. Sounds like there is quite a variance between units. After getting burned on my Jetbeam CE's from Emillion I thought I would order the Rexlights to replace the CE's that I never received. I was hoping for at least Fenix L1D brightness and regulation, but it appears that the Rexlight is outclassed by the Fenix in every way except price. Its hard to believe that Rexlight draws as much amperage as it does on Nimh and isn't considerably brighter than it is. Again thanks to all those here who have taken the time to provide beamshots, reviews, and runtime charts.


 The Rexlight also has better beam quality (the L1D is very ringy with standard smooth reflector), and you can use all modes with 14500. But would also rather have the Fenix L1D-CE if I had to chose, the L1D-CE is just so darn bright with Ni-Mh, and has a much better UI, it is my EDC and the Rexlight will defiantly not take that place.


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## NetKidz (Apr 22, 2007)

adnj said:


> That variation in current for the cells between Netkidz and whc is HUGE. Seems like something funny going on.


 
Ya. That's funny. 

I tested it again. If I use the eneloop NiMH just take off the charger, it's about 1.4v and the current on High is about 2.3A. If I put the NiMH for a while to 1.3v, the current on High is around 2A.

The current on High with AW 14500 (4.16v) is about 0.8A. I think that's why whc's 14500 would run for about two hours since the current is about 0.54A. :thinking:


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## big beam (Apr 22, 2007)

It seems like this rex will be ok on primary lithium.With 1.5-1.7 v it should be 2 hrs or so on high and I use med most of the time with my C-LE.I'm getting 3 of these things so it will be interesting to see how much they vary from light to light.  

DON


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## big beam (Apr 22, 2007)

WHC
Sorry, but your question about is the LED overdriven on high we don't know yet.You have to mesure the ma. at the emitter to see what the driver is feeding it.Right now all we're measuring is the amp draw out of the batteries.This doesn't take into account the loss through the driver.

You have to be very careful doing this because if you don't have a load on the driver(voltage out side) you can cook it(when taking readings at the emitter).SO BE CAREFULL!!!!

DON


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## KnOeFz (Apr 22, 2007)

I don't think you can read amperage of pwm at the emitter with a 'simple' digital multimeter. But my electronics knowledge is a bit rusty so maybe I'm wrong here.


----------



## big beam (Apr 22, 2007)

KnOeFz said:


> I don't think you can read amperage of pwm at the emitter with a 'simple' digital multimeter. But my electronics knowledge is a bit rusty so maybe I'm wrong here.



Yes you are right
DON


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## Perfectionist (Apr 22, 2007)

So basically ...... the Fenix L1D-CE is still the reigning King !?!?


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## gunga (Apr 22, 2007)

Yes, I think so. If you look at what's out there for the mainstream stuff:

Fenix L1D uses current regulation on all levels and is brighter than everything on nimh. The lumapower M3 is not as bright on nimh, but has longer runtimes (I think). It seems to use currentl regulation on med/high and use a resistor to drop to low (not ideal, but not bad).

All the jetbeams, rexlight, dexlight, all use PWM, which many don't like and which is supposed be be less efficient than current regulation (although all modes do work with 14500).


The other thing is the jetbeams, rex/dexlights etc are not too well supported. If it breaks, have a good time getting it fixed. I think Luma and Fenix provide a lot better after-sales support.

I was going to sell my L1D, but after seeing all that has developed, I'm keeping this prize!


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## whc (Apr 22, 2007)

Yep if I had to go for one, it would defiantly be the L1D-CE with the M3 OP reflector (my setup). Though if Rexlight was still selling for $30 it would be a very good deal (just a tad smaller, OP-Reflector, all modes with 14500,strong HAIII natural, good build quality, and nice “textured” grip). But for UI and output power with Ni-Mh the L1D-CE is hard to beat, and if you get a L1D-CE you know what you are going to get (has on the marked a bit longer, and Fenix has some more experience).

Though for a first production, I think Rexlight has done more right than wrong, I am not selling mine right away that is for sure. It is good but not perfect, but then again which flashlight _is_ perfect? ...


----------



## Vikas Sontakke (Apr 22, 2007)

My experience with Rexlight and NiMh was that my battery current went up as the battery voltage dropped which signified the current controlled circuit.

With slightly used NiMh, the current goes higher than the one with freshly charged NiMh. It is of course pain in the neck to get the light in the correct mode before taking the readings.

I suspect the efficiency of the circuit is not very good though. Also the variation between different lights is quite high.

- Vikas

- Vikas


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## adirondackdestroyer (Apr 22, 2007)

Does the OP reflector of the M3 fit right into the head of the L1DCE? If so I need one!


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## gunga (Apr 22, 2007)

Yes it fits, and yes it rocks!

:rock:


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## protein_man (Apr 23, 2007)

Hi just got my rexlight out of the mail and have been playing with it for about half an hour or so. My intial reaction was, nice looking light, beaut finish on it and very presentable. It came in a gift box - would have been nice if I got a lanyard with this light. They're is room in the box for a 2aa tube, box looked kind of empty when opened.

I found the double o-rings that are used on both ends of this light to be a bit sloppy and I had to be careful not to pinch them. After inserting an eneloop the light didn't work! I took the battery out and put the spring washer in the end cap, it works fine now.

I am impressed by this lights brightness, all I have to compare it to in the aa form is an ultrafire 602a1 modded with a seoul P4. The rexlight light puts out plenty of flood with a nice hotspot. The beam colour is a perfect a cool white.

This light puts out a fair bit more light then the ultrafire seoul P4. I find the switch on the 602a1 to be more friendly - they are interchangable the threads are the same.

I've heard the fenix is brighter, however I do not own one to compare to. This light has left me with a bit of a wow factor for how bright it is off a single aa. All in all a good buy for $30. Would be happy to purchase a 2aa tube if available.


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## whc (Apr 23, 2007)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> Does the OP reflector of the M3 fit right into the head of the L1DCE? If so I need one!



Yes see here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=156863

Make sure you get the one that looks like this (on left): 






There should be two reflectors from M3, and the other doesn't fit as well.


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## protein_man (Apr 23, 2007)

Just did a runtime test, got around 45 minutes before output dropped on an eneloop nimh. The light wouldn't restart after the voltage of the battery dropped below 0.95 V.


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## Ty_Bower (Apr 23, 2007)

protein_man said:


> After inserting an eneloop the light didn't work! I took the battery out and put the spring washer in the end cap, it works fine now.


What exactly do you mean by "didn't work"? With mine, I found the light would light up, but only on high. I couldn't get it to change modes. I could get it to work if I loosened the Cree module in the head, and made sure not to put the battery tube on too tight. I've installed the wavy washer in the head end of the light, and it seems to make things better. I'd like to exactly why and where the manufacturer expects us to put the wavy washer.

Things I love about this light:

excellent machining and anodize finish
good brightness with regular AA cells
good tint and excellent beam quality from OP reflector

Things I hate about this light:

irritating PWM flicker on low and medium
useless strobe and SOS modes get in the way cycling from high to low
flaky construction or machining tolerances too close, resulting in oversensitivity to threading tightness
inscrutable "smart memory" feature results in "never know what level it's going to start at"


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## protein_man (Apr 23, 2007)

The body of the battery tube wasnt making contact with the switch outter ring retainer. So I undid the washer that holds the switch down, put the spring in the did it back up. Al is good since doing this.


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## Nake (Apr 23, 2007)

Would like to add my current draw numbers.

alkaline...1.6V......1.3A
14500.....4.2V.....670mA


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## TOOCOOL (Apr 23, 2007)

protein_man said:


> put the spring in the did it back up.



what?


----------



## lukestephens777 (Apr 24, 2007)

Can someone explain to me what the little brass ripple washer is for?

Cheers!!


----------



## LA OZ (Apr 24, 2007)

I have sent an email to kai and yet no answer. I however believe it is for the head of the torch. Some batteries are too long for this torch and therefore the body will not be able to come in contact with the copper head so to complete the circuit. This ring will will help with this problem.


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## Ty_Bower (Apr 24, 2007)

Has anyone looked under the emitter board? It seems to just sit on the top of the driver can. The only thing that keeps it in place are the red and black wires that come up though the holes and get soldered to the top of the board.

Any guesses whether there is any thermal compound under there?

While I'm scrutinizing the emitter board, what is the likelihood that any of the exposed contacts are going to touch the back side of the aluminum reflector piece?


----------



## whc (Apr 24, 2007)

Ty_Bower said:


> Has anyone looked under the emitter board? It seems to just sit on the top of the driver can. The only thing that keeps it in place are the red and black wires that come up though the holes and get soldered to the top of the board.
> 
> Any guesses whether there is any thermal compound under there?
> 
> While I'm scrutinizing the emitter board, what is the likelihood that any of the exposed contacts are going to touch the back side of the aluminum reflector piece?


 No thermal compound under the led board on mine, took it completely off today after the LED went dead, hoping for a quick self repair, but the LED it self is soldered pretty good on the board, making it very hard to get off, ended up with a slightly damaged board, and another destroyed XR-E (my third now, that are nor well made if you ask me, not like SSC P4) ...

Just for fun I managed to find an old LuxIII LED, and it fits on there pretty good, but the reflector just makes it a complete flooder, no hot spot what so ever...


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## mudman cj (Apr 24, 2007)

Why do you think the LED went dead? Were you running it on high with a 14500 for extended periods or something that might be considered harsh? Some of us with high order #s might consider cancelling while we can if these lights are failing in normal use.


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## Vikas Sontakke (Apr 24, 2007)

Reports about dead and super hot Rexlights are giving me a pause.

- Vikas


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## havand (Apr 24, 2007)

mudman cj said:


> Why do you think the LED went dead? Were you running it on high with a 14500 for extended periods or something that might be considered harsh? Some of us with high order #s might consider cancelling while we can if these lights are failing in normal use.



No thermal compound, a few battery run throughs from start to finish without being turned off and I can see how the led could go dead. Heat damage. I'm not sure who (Might have been whc) said that after a complete battery drain, the head was very hot.


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## protein_man (Apr 24, 2007)

I've ran mine on high for two battery cycles, the head gets warm pretty quickly so I think the heat is being transferred from the cree quiet nicely on mine. No tint shift in the led at all either.

aving to cycle through the modes just to get to the level you want is a PITA and it would be heaps better if there wasn't the usless strobe and sos modes.


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## jsr (Apr 25, 2007)

Just sent the email to Kai to cancel my order. The runtime/regulation is disappointing, as well as the output. Too bad as I really liked the much simpler UI than the Jetbeam MKIIx and Dexlight, and smaller size than the Fenix L1D. What's next?...maybe an Ultrafire C3...simpler...wish it had 2-levels though.


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## whc (Apr 25, 2007)

mudman cj said:


> Why do you think the LED went dead? Were you running it on high with a 14500 for extended periods or something that might be considered harsh? Some of us with high order #s might consider cancelling while we can if these lights are failing in normal use.


 Was in High mode, with 14500 fresh of the charger. Don't know what happened, it just went dark after 1sec on. Thought it was the battery first, but turned out to be the LED. Have bean really unlucky lately with bad LEDs, also had a bad purple tint.

These things happens, could happen with all lights.


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## whc (Apr 25, 2007)

havand said:


> No thermal compound, a few battery run throughs from start to finish without being turned off and I can see how the led could go dead. Heat damage. I'm not sure who (Might have been whc) said that after a complete battery drain, the head was very hot.


 Yes gets very hot with Ni-Mh, not so much with 14500. Maybe the couple of Ni-Mh runtime tests has damaged the LED, it got to hot to hold in hand at some point, all the way down to the tail cap.


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## Thujone (Apr 25, 2007)

Between this and the color change I finally requested a refund.


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## TOOCOOL (Apr 25, 2007)

My rexy only gets warm I kept it on for 35mins and I could put it on my face no problem its just right for a low powered hand warmer


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## dardar (Apr 25, 2007)

Mine also on NiMh on high, the temperature raise and then stabilize. It is just warm like when I'm sick (so about 40°C ?) I Ran it for an hour the first day I got it.

edit: I forget to note that during the hour I used, I holded it in my hand.


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## Nake (Apr 25, 2007)

TOOCOOL said:


> My rexy only gets warm I kept it on for 35mins and I could put it on my face no problem its just right for a low powered hand warmer


 
What kind of batteries?


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## TOOCOOL (Apr 25, 2007)

Nake said:


> What kind of batteries?



alki AA and NiMh AA. don't have a 14500 to test send me one :laughing:


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## big beam (Apr 25, 2007)

PRIMARY LITHIUM.....PRIMARY LITHIUM????anyone

DON


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## HarveyRich (Apr 25, 2007)

> Originally Posted by jsr: Just sent the email to Kai to cancel my order. The runtime/regulation is disappointing, as well as the output.


Ditto and too bad. It had real promise. Who needs just another problematic flashlight when there are so many good ones out there? Guess it's a good idea to wait for reviews, if you can control yourself, though.


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## itch808 (Apr 25, 2007)

Strange, I'm still loving mine. After finding out you can switch modes with a quick tap rather than on/off/on, it makes it even better!


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## adnj (Apr 25, 2007)

Any thought on upgrading to a FluPic with 14500 only use?


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## Ty_Bower (Apr 25, 2007)

big beam said:


> PRIMARY LITHIUM.....PRIMARY LITHIUM????anyone


Works fine. No problems here. I'm using BatteryStation 2900mAh primary lithiums in mine.


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## big beam (Apr 25, 2007)

Thanks TB
Is it about as bright as when you run it on nimh?
DON


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## Chinook (Apr 26, 2007)

I for one want to thank whc for apparently sacrificing his early adopter Rexlight to our insatiable thirst for details and limits. I would think that as his unit was sacrificed on the CPF altar, so to speak, that maybe he could get compensation for his loss or at least recognition of his unpaid efforts on this light's (or seller's) behalf.


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## LGCubana (Apr 26, 2007)

Just got my Rex 2.0 


Best implementation of a switch, with a soft tap; that I've ever come across.

Tint is excellent.

The finish (on quick glance) appears even throughout.

The threads on both ends are gritty.

There is a high pitched tone emanating from the unit. Can only be heard when the unit is within 6" of my ear.

The UI (on mine) always jumps to the next mode. I've tried keeping it on high for 5, 10, 20, & 30 seconds. Wait 30 seconds & then turn it back on; strobe.

In direct comparison to my UltraFire C3, CREE. *Both using matched* *Duracell alkalines, 1.552v.* *C3 kicks Rex to the curb.*  
 
[Edit to add]
With the Duracell alkalines, 1.552v; *in a pitch black room.* *No flicker on Low-Med-High.*


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## jsr (Apr 26, 2007)

I'm starting to dig the UF C3. Can anyone with a bunch of AA lights check if a light with a 2-stage tailcap fits onto the C3?...that'd make it really nice.


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## chasino (Apr 29, 2007)

Just got my Rexlight. This five second UI doesn't work for me. Maybe with some more practice...

Is there anyway to change the programming.?
I would love to shorten the delay and/or move the SOS/Strobe to a different user level.


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## piper (Apr 29, 2007)

I got mine on Friday. 1st impressions are good.

Build is great, flawless anodize finish, brighter that my L1p on high also brighter than my Q3 but I still like the Q3's beam the best. The pwm doesn't bother me at all (like the LOP SE). The threads were clean but so bone dry when the light arrived as I twisted off the switch end the squealing sound was so loud the dog came over to investigate, and he was asleep! Both ends needed much lubrication and with only the inner O rings both ends fit perfectly. Impossible to use the light with all four O rings so I have two spares now. Didn't get the metal washer in the box but I've tried every AA in the house and the light worked fine with all of them (Panasonic NiMh, Eveready Lithium, Panasonic Alkaline, Sunbeam Alkaline). The beam is the whitest one in the house. I used to think my Q3 had the whitest beam but side by side with the Rexlight the Q3 looks quite greenish!

I'm not crazy about the UI especially the blinking modes, you should be able to shut these out if you want.

All in all it's a great light for $30 and will be my EDC for a while (along with my LOP SE).


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## waTom (May 3, 2007)

Got mine today!

It looks really nice and I like the low/med/high modes alot but it always turns on in the next mode as others stated and I also have a strange high-pitched whistle on high ... hope it doesn't explode


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## big beam (May 3, 2007)

Has anyone got a black type III yet or are they all nat HA?

THANKS DON


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## LGCubana (May 4, 2007)

waTom said:


> Got mine today!
> 
> It looks really nice and I like the low/med/high modes alot but it always turns on in the next mode as others stated and I also have a strange high-pitched whistle on high ... hope it doesn't explode


 
Mine was doing the same thing on Alkalines. A rechargeable 14500 was the remedy. Now the 5 second memory function works.

&

Regardless of 1.5v or 3.6v, no flicker on Low.


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## dardar (May 4, 2007)

LGCubana said:


> Mine was doing the same thing on Alkalines. A rechargeable 14500 was the remedy. Now the 5 second memory function works.
> 
> &
> 
> Regardless of 1.5v or 3.6v, no flicker on Low.



Is this possible two kind of rexlight is in the wild? One with pwm and the other without?:thinking:


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## Nake (May 4, 2007)

dardar said:


> Is this possible two kind of rexlight is in the wild? One with pwm and the other without?:thinking:


 
I think he means he can't *see *any flicker.


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## LGCubana (May 4, 2007)

dardar said:


> Is this possible two kind of rexlight is in the wild? One with pwm and the other without?:thinking:


 
My unit has PWM. Confirmed by shining on a fan in a dark room. 

But I can not see any strobing/flickering on Low mode; within normal usage. I've tried whitewall hunting, ceiling bounce & walking around the exterior of the house. No Flikah !!!


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## TOOCOOL (May 4, 2007)

LGCubana said:


> My unit has PWM. Confirmed by shining on a fan in a dark room.
> 
> But I can not see any strobing/flickering on Low mode; within normal usage. I've tried whitewall hunting, ceiling bounce & walking around the exterior of the house. No Flikah !!!



ditto


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## waTom (May 4, 2007)

I also don't see any flickering. Hope my 14500 from AW will arrive soon


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## big beam (May 7, 2007)

I now have my hot little hands on 2 rex lights.I like'em.About the same output as my CL-E only with a clickie.Tint is great(CL-E is blue).The clickie has the right feel a quick touch changes the mode.Fit & finish is great a nice little light for the price.Amp draw on both is the same.1.18 high,.46 medium,.12 low on primary lithium.Whats not to like!

DON


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## javafool (May 7, 2007)

We really need a AAA version of the Rexlight. I personally think the Rexlight REX2.0 XR-E is the quality/price winner of the lights out so far and a AAA version would be a real winner indeed.


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## dardar (May 7, 2007)

javafool said:


> We really need a AAA version of the Rexlight. I personally think the Rexlight REX2.0 XR-E is the quality/price winner of the lights out so far and a AAA version would be a real winner indeed.



Yes, this l0d-ce is very tempting. If only it was available in natural.
Now if rexlight come with a l0d-ce size in HA-NAT for 30$ shipped, :wow:


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## big beam (May 7, 2007)

One more thing I'd like to add.Both of my lights are not" stable" on 2 alkies or 2 primary lithiums(1.7V) or 1-3.0V lithium.It is very dim on all settings.(IE high .08A medium .05A low .02A) :thinking: But Kai did say this would be the case.

DON


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## Nake (May 7, 2007)

big beam said:


> One more thing I'd like to add.Both of my lights are not" stable" on 2 alkies or 2 primary lithiums(1.7V) or 1-3.0V lithium.It is very dim on all settings.(IE high .08A medium .05A low .02A) :thinking: But Kai did say this would be the case.
> 
> DON


 
You have me confused. With an alkaline I get, low 60mA, medium 220mA, high 1200mA.


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## big beam (May 7, 2007)

Nake said:


> You have me confused. With an alkaline I get, low 60mA, medium 220mA, high 1200mA.



You're using 1 alki I'm testing with 2.
BTW I tested again and on low I'm getting .12 ( 1-1.7V lithium)


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## haukurh (Jun 7, 2007)

Got my Rexlight yesterday and first impressions are nice.
The 5 sec memory thing really bothers me, but I guess I will have to live with it.:thumbsdow

I got in a matte black finish and it looks good. The tailcap is orange plus and extra black one. My light came preassembled with lubed up o-rings. And I got another o-rings (spares) and a crooked washer.
It came in a tiny box that was all bangled up after the transport to my country.
One thing that I found wrong is that the led is not perfectly centered like Kai stated. It's centered, but not perfectly. The beam is nice so I don't think I'll make a fuzz about that.

Im not a flash-expert but from what i have seen so far I am happy and it was worth the wait (for $30).


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## Stereodude (Oct 14, 2007)

Does anyone else have a Rexlight that doesn't revert to low after it's been sitting off for 5 seconds or more? I can even pull the battery out of the light and wait for 10's of minutes and it will still go to the next mode rather than reverting to low?


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## TOOCOOL (Oct 14, 2007)

Stereodude said:


> Does anyone else have a Rexlight that doesn't revert to low after it's been sitting off for 5 seconds or more? I can even pull the battery out of the light and wait for 10's of minutes and it will still go to the next mode rather than reverting to low?



After the light has been on for 5+ seconds it will go back to where it was set prior to turning off, if you turn it off before 5 seconds it will go to the next step when turned back on. Well thats how it should work


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## Stereodude (Oct 15, 2007)

TOOCOOL said:


> After the light has been on for 5+ seconds it will go back to where it was set prior to turning off, if you turn it off before 5 seconds it will go to the next step when turned back on. Well thats how it should work


That's not how mine works. I'll admit that I've had it for months and never used it, so yesterday I finally got around to putting a battery in it. No matter how long it sits (or even if I pull the battery out) it always advances to the next mode in the cycle when powered on. The other one that I gave away to my dad for father's day didn't do this. It worked correctly.


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