# Review: ThruNite TN32 Tactical/Search Flashlight



## JohnnyMac (Dec 28, 2013)

*ThruNite TN32 Tactical/Search Flashlight

*
When ThruNite offered me the opportunity to review their newest update of the venerable TN31, the new TN32, I jumped at the chance. The TN31 has always been one of the best throwing and well respected flashlights designed for long range throw. With the release of the new TN32, ThruNite has upped the ante by adding a solid copper alloy (CuZn) pill and improving driver output to drive it's Cree XM-L2 to a claimed 1702 lumens. Does it live up to it's promise? Read on and see what my test results show. Let's start off with sharing the features and specifications from ThruNite-store.com







Description from ThruNite's website:






Designed for flashaholics only, ThruNite TN32 is much brighter than TN31. TN32 has a max output of 1702 lumen, even more powerful than TN31 XM-L2 version whose output is 1376 lumen. Copper plating chromium circuit provides better heat dissipation performance.Otherwise it has a streamline design and very beautiful body. It weights only 650 grams and very light to carry on. It is good for tactical and search purposes.

Key Features:
☆ Copper circuit provides better heat dissipation performance
☆ Improved UI for more lumens
☆ Ultra-clear tempered glass lens with anti-reflective coating.
☆ Momentary forward click tactical switch.
☆ Strobe mode for tactical and emergency use.
☆ Smooth reflector for max light output. 
☆ Highly focused beam for maximum distance
☆ Tactical knurling for firm grip.
☆ Streamlined body design.
☆ Mechanical reversed polarity protection design for battery carrier.
☆ Intelligent highly efficient circuit board design for max performance and long run time.
☆ Specially designed for Military, Law Enforcement, Self-defense, Hunting, Search & Rescue and Outdoor activities.
☆ Intelligent temperature controlled light output for user safety.

Specifications:





Accessories: Hoster,Lanyard,User manual,Warranty card,O-ring
Retail price: $179.00 USD









First impressions are everything and the ThruNite TN32 doesn't fail to impress. Unboxing the shipment revealed a beautiful and sturdy case in which the TN32 is snuggly encased inside it's holster along with some spare O-rings, a nice lanyard, user manual and a warranty card.







The case the TN32 comes in is extremely attractive and well built. I was impressed immediately with it's quality before ever opening it. Perhaps it's because of the anticipation I had for this light but it feels nicer, somehow, than the one that came with my TN30.










Opening the latches and raising the lid reveals a holstered TN32 and user manual. The interior of the lid is covered in egg crate foam. The main section is an extremely dense closed cell foam cut to fit the holstered TN32 perfectly.






I'm including a look at the owner's Manual. Nothing too detailed or mysterious in it since the light couldn't be easier to figure out or operate. The English is very good and, unless I overlooked it, contains no "Chinglish" that one normally sees with lights made in China.













Here are the contents of the case. The spares packet, lanyard, and warranty card are stowed below the holster in the bottom of the case.







A better look at the interior of the case.







Inside the holster, the light comes wrapped in a thick plastic bag that covers the front 2/3 of the light.







The TN32 looks like a flashlight should. It's 79mm head only begins to suggest how well it throws.







The chromed one-piece pill tells you that the TN32 is different from the older TN31 model from which it has evolved.







An XM-L2 U2 sits at the base of the reflector. Even domed, when combined with the beautiful reflector if puts out an impressive *226,591 lux and throws over 951 meters/1000 yards*! Been longing for a Vinh modded TN31 that puts out roughly 5000k? Thrunite has done the mods for you except for dedoming the XM-L2 emitter. They even beefed up the pill with a one piece solid copper exposed pill (Chrome plated on the exterior). You can't do any better than this and for only a little more than the cost of a standard TN31. Still not enoough to impress you? Lets take a look at the rest of the light in closer detail.







A look from the front shows the TN32 means business. The crenelated stainless steel bezel has zero sharp edges even though it looks like it should. This is just an example of the machining and finish of the TN32.







No burrs on the bezel crenelations plus a 3mm thick ultraclear glass lens that is AR coated. The interior of the reflector is perfectly proportioned for thow at 65mm wide * 65mm deep.







The body of the light has 3 machined flats. One of which contains the Model number of the light along with the individual lights Serial Number.







A second flat has the Thrunite logo and motto. All etching on the body is consistent, white, and cleanly lasered. It was quite nice to see the improved quality of the etching after seeing the rather poor etching done on the TN11S I reviewed a while ago.







The knurling is some of the best I've seen. Extremely aggressive and grippy but with no sharp edges or burrs anywhere. Just a consistent, wonderful grip wet or dry. The triple parallel cell format may prove to be a touch wide in diameter for those with smaller hands but it is very well balanced and not at all front heavy like I expected it to be. It is very comfortable.







The head of the TN32 is smoothly machined and anodized. It even looks better in person than it does in photos. 


The fins at the base of the reflector cup aid in transferring heat from the over-driven emitter away from the light and into the surrounding air. 


Directly behind the finning is the magnetic rotating control ring that allows selection from the 6 main output levels plus standby and strobe.


The chromed ring at the base of the head is actually the exposed area of the pill. It is machined from solid copper alloy (CuZn)and chromed on the outside for durability and finish appearance. This new copper alloy pill is basically brass but it definitely does handle the heat the increased output of the driver causes the TN32 to create.







Just another look at the excellent machining and anodizing on the head.







At the opposite end of the light we have the crenelated tail cap and main power switch. You can see how every edge is beautifully chamfered, even the lanyard hole edges are wonderfully machined and chamfered. There is none of the exposed aluminum on the edges like I've seen on many other lights nor should there be on a light that currently lists at $179 USD. To many people it's a lot of money to spend on a flashlight but it is truly money well spent.







Here you can see the impressive machining and little details that make this such a wonderful light.







The output marking are laser etched into the outer collar of the pill. You can see the arrow head etched onto the control ring. As you rotate the ring the arrow points to the output mode selected.







Here you can see the markings for Standby and Strobe.







With the body unscrewed from the head we now take a look at the back of the head. here we can see the exposed copper/brass in the nicely machined threads. An aluminum contact plate for the battery negative contact and the very thick gold-plated spring for the battery positive connection in the center.







3 stainless phillips head screws hold the contact plate to the head. With them removed we can see the backside of the plate. Note tha it is recessed to clear a few surface mounted components on the outer face of the driver PCB.







With the contact plate removed we can see the rear of the driver PCB. The dab of thermal grease must be there to help wick heat off of a component and into the contact plate.







Not the greatest view of the driver but I didn't feel like unsoldering it to get a better picture. The full size pic will show greater detail for those interested. Since I don't have an original TN31 I am only assuming that it is the same driver but with a few component changes (sense resistors) to increase the output to the LED.







A closer look at the inside of the emitter/driver pill. You can see the copper/brass well from here. The copper MCPCB with direct thermal path for the emitter is mounted directly to the other side of the copper pill. Heavy gauge wiring is used for minimal electrical resistance.







At the front of the head we have another look at the gorgeous and effective reflector.







With the bezel and lens removed we can see the 2mm thick O-ring that sits between the bezel and glass. There is a groove machined in the bezel into which the O-ring sits.







The AR coated lens is 72.4mm wide and 3mm thick.









You can see how nicely finished and chamfered even the edges of the bezel are. Attention to detail abounds in the TN32.







Beneath the bezel and lens is an L-ring which sits on top of the reflector and presses snugly against the inner walls of the head. The lens sits inside of this and when everything is tightened down it completes a tight seal protecting the TN32 from moisture ingress.







Here we have the reflector outside the head.










The L-ring seal measures 75mm across.







The outer diameter of the reflector measures 69.56mm.







Reflector depth is 65mm.







Inside diameter of the reflector measures 65mm as well.







Inside at the base of the head is the copper MCPCB onto which the XM-L2 emitter is mounted. The copper MCPCB provides direct thermal connection from the emitter base to the MCPCB while two screws mount the copper MCPCB to the solid copper pill.







Switching attention back to the body of the light, let's take a closer look at the reverse protected battery holder. Here we see the end of the holder where it connects to the driver contact board. The carrier itself is designed to work if either end is connecting to the driver. This takes out the worry of inserting it incorrectly and shorting out the driver board. 


In previous TN31 and TN30 models some owners complained that a thin coating on some of the battery carriers caused poor connection and flickering. I noticed no such issues but did lightly sand the carrier connection surfaces with 600 grit emery cloth just to make sure there was no coating interfering with anything. This picture was taken before I sanded the faces lightly.







Threads are deeply cut O-ring is nice and thick and seals very tightly to keep the light waterproof to 2 meter rating.







The carrier is very solid with gold plated springs and solid connection buttons for the cells. It will accommodate cells up to 69mm in length.







Here are my unprotected test cells. The carrier will also fit most protected cells but not all. Anything more than 69mm may require some shimming of the posts that connect the contact plates.







A look down the body tube shows the contact plate and contact springs at the tube's base.







The end cap threads off with a tough grip but most of that is due to the thick O-ring that seals the cap from water ingress.







The tail switch boot is held in place from behind by a wide, threaded retaining ring. To swap the boot just insert needle nose pliers into the two indents and unthread.







The tail switch itself is a forward clicky switch and is mounted directly to the tail PCB. Also included are some surface mounted components. I'm not enough of an electronics hobbyist to tel you what exactly these do. I am going to guess that they buffer the flow of juice to the driver when the light is switched on. When in the lowest mode and you use the forward clicky switch to signal you will see a slight delay in the light going out when you turn the main power off. In higher modes this effect isn't noticeable.







Here we see the switch PCB removed from the body so we can look at the dual spring setup that provides the reverse protection for the battery carrier. The inner spring is the positive contact and the outer spring is the negative.







A look into the battery tube with the tailcap off and carrier removed. You can see the ledge that the switch PCB sits on.







*RECORDED MEASUREMENTS:

*

Head Diameter:78.85mmBody Diameter:49mmTotal Length:202mmDriver Diameter:44mmLens Diameter * Thickness:72.41mm * 3mmLens O-ring Diameter * Thickness:72mm * 2mmReflector O.D.*I.D.*Depth69.65mm*65mm* 65mmTailcap Diameter:16mmMaximun Cell Length:69mmSwitch Type:Forward-clickyPWM in any of the modes?NoWaterproof to 2mYesBeam angle/Spill angle7 degrees / 54 degrees

All together I have to give the ThruNite TN32 a very high build quality rating. This thing is a very well put together and finished piece of hardware. You might be thinking, "Build quality is nice but what about the performance? Does this light live up to the hype?". Well, since you asked...yes. Yes it does!









*PERFORMANCE*:


Performance? Yeah the TN32 has it and in spades! When I heard about the claimed 1702 lumens output on this light I figured it was the usual "at the emitter" lumens. It's not. Much to my amazement, when I tested the TN32 in my Integrated Sphere I saw 1688 OTF lumens. OUT THE FRONT! One word..."NICE!"


Beam output and profle is VERY nice. The hotspot is extremely defined with a very tight and even corona. The spill is a pretty consistent and even from the corona all the way to the defined outer spill edge. Many lights have several defined levels in their spill. The TN32 has just one smooth and artifact free spill. Pretty impressive IMO. 


The magnetic control ring operates very smoothly with just the right amount of resistance that you won't accidentally rotate the ring and change modes. Each mode snicks nicely into place with a soft, precise click. From one end of the rotation to the other is about 170 degrees


In Moonlight mode (0.46 lumen) I can actually see the hotspot from over 10 yards out. In it's highest mode the output is simply stunning. There aren't many production LED flashlights that output over 270k lux. The lux and throw ratings from the manufacturer appear to be from the TN31 and are nowhere near what this light actually puts out. Based on the output I would estimate the TN32 to be driven at about 6 amps. If the emitter was dedomed I'm sure it would put out between 450k and 500k lux which is what modified TN31 models are getting when driven at this level and dedomed. Even with the copper/brass pill in the TN32 and everything else being equal it would be very safe to say it would do over 500k if dedomed. If you can wield a soldering iron and have a cup of gasoline handy you can do this yourself and have a light with output that destroys nearly all other throwers and all for the price of $179 USD.


*Output Measurements

*
The output levels, controlled current and zero PWM coupled with three 18650 cells equals a ton of run time for emergency lighting as well as insane output for roughly 1.5 hours. Cells used in measurements are Panasonic NCR18650A unprotected fully charged. Integrated Sphere used is calibrated and very accurate. Lux output measured at 10 yards and converted to 1yd.



*MODE**OTF LUMENS*Mode 10.46 lumenMode 217.27 lumensMode 3307.4 lumensMode 4743 lumensMode 51,199 lumensMode 6 @ turn on1751 lumensMode 6 @ 30 seconds1688 lumensStep-down from Mode 6 (65 seconds)1558 lumens*LUX and THROW*Lux @ 1yd (converted from 10yds)270,920Lux @ 1 meter226,529Throw distance in yards1,041 yardsThrow distance in meters951.9 meters

Pretty hard for me to get any decent outdoor beamshots right now between the holidays and the weather but here are some animated gifs showing differences in output levels. As with all the pictures in this review, clicking one will open a larger version in a new browser window or tab.














*CONCLUSION*:

Budget light? Nope. Worth the $179 USD entrance fee? Absolutely and every penny of it. It's really the only larger light you would need due to the versatility in output and range. Should provide years of excellent service as well due to the extremely good build quality. I can recommend the TN32 with absolutely no reservations. Looking for a quality thrower that can destroy anything in it's price bracket as well as nearly any other price bracket? Look no further than the ThruNite TN32.

*The light provided in this review was provided by ThruNite-store.com

Edit: I will say that there has been confusion over the material used in the pill. It is definitely not pure copper and frankly I find it totally understandable. It is a copper alloy which, in reality, is merely brass. Pure copper is a bear to machine on a good day and far to soft for threads to hold up reliably, especially in the piece that will be threaded and unthreaded every time the batteries are changed/charged. Is it really any better than having used the same aluminum pill that is found in the TN31? Many might argue that it would be better with an aluminum pill instead of brass (copper alloy to the marketing folks) but their testing gives them the confidence to drive the light at 6+ amps and still cover the light with the standard warranty. My testing showed no issues and lumen output on Turbo only dropped by 80 or so in the first 30 seconds and I don't consider that to be too bad.

I have asked the owner of ThruNite what exact composition of the brass is used in the TN32. He is checking with his engineering team and promises an answer ASAP. Considering that there are dozens of different types of brass it is not worth assuming that the worse type for thermal efficiency was used. Should it matter that much to you then just get a TN31 and perform the resistor mod on it to achieve the same output levels. I find the new design far more appealing cosmetically and am not worried about performance issues.


----------



## ariep (Dec 29, 2013)

Thanks for the great review. I had all but decided on the Fenix TK75 as the best combination of throw/flood powerful flashlight. Now I'll have to reconsider. Any initial comments/opinions about the TN32 vs the TK75?


----------



## ggroyal1117 (Dec 29, 2013)

I have been using my TN32 for almost one month and I agree with everything in the review. It is brighter than my TN31 and the throw is farther. I use it every night when I walk my two small dogs in the back yard, they can't hide from me now.
Thanks for the review and the photos showing the components. I am very pleased with the TN32.


----------



## KarstGhost (Dec 29, 2013)

Nice to see a production light pushing the XML around 6A. That might be a first?


----------



## JohnnyMac (Dec 29, 2013)

ariep said:


> Thanks for the great review. I had all but decided on the Fenix TK75 as the best combination of throw/flood powerful flashlight. Now I'll have to reconsider. Any initial comments/opinions about the TN32 vs the TK75?


Having smooth spill on the TN32 still doesn't make it a floody light. This thing is like a laser beam. The TK75 is no slouch in the throw department and is still one of the best lights for a compromise between flood and throw. You might also consider the TN30 as a fantastic flooder with decent throw. More flood than a TK75 but not as much throw. I had it with me on a night hike at the FCW10 and it was amazing for lighting up the clearing we went to as well as the trees on the other end of it. Ask the guys that were there. The TN30 is a triple XM-L2 light with an honest 3200 OTF lumens. It's an amazing light that is the flooding brother of the TN31/32.


----------



## Capolini (Dec 29, 2013)

Nice review Johnny!

It looks like a very impressive torch!!! 

I can not figure out how Thrunite and some other Manufacturers make mistakes in their specifications to make their torch look weaker than it really is!!! For these types[S&R]the competition for the most output and throw is what seems to win customers!

I just got the OSTS TN31mb. My updated version was tested/certified at 470Kcd! Last night I lit up Three 80' Norway Spruce from 600 yards away. It was on a Golf course and my girlfriend was on the Green to verify it, I was on the Tee!!

I had my doubt/opinions about modded lights, but I am glad I have this one!

In closing[!], I would like to say that I enjoy and appreciate ALL my torches for what they can do. From my SENS, S10/S20 to my TK75 and Modded TN31 and everything in between!

I think what I just said is what Non Flashaholics DO NOT understand about US Flashaholics!!! The variety of uses and the diversification that our 22 to 500 torches that we may have!!! :twothumbs

I will see you in Bethlehem on January 31st!!!


----------



## markeday (Dec 29, 2013)

I just got this light about a month ago,I bought this, the tn30xm-l2 and the lynx.On the carrier of the tn30,there's a screw,so when your tightening the head down,the spring drags,on the carrier in the 32 ,its more like a rivot,no drag.My fit and finish are perfect on mine as well,I really like it,the beam has a lot of spill.Question,when you guys measure beam distance,is it done with a formula or with an actual tape measure?


----------



## Capolini (Dec 29, 2013)

markeday said:


> I just got this light about a month ago,I bought this, the tn30xm-l2 and the lynx.On the carrier of the tn30,there's a screw,so when your tightening the head down,the spring drags,on the carrier in the 32 ,its more like a rivot,no drag.My fit and finish are perfect on mine as well,I really like it,the beam has a lot of spill.Question,when you guys measure beam distance,is it done with a formula or with an actual tape measure?



A formula. I believe this to be correct, it is the way I was taught.
To measure "Throw" or Beam Distance.

Square root of Cd[candelas] X 2[TIMES 2] = meters at .25 lux. These are the specs. manufacturers give.

OR

Square root of Cd[candelas] = meters at 1.0 lux This is a more useful amount of light.

I am still not totally clear on these measurements in regards to the visual comparison. I have heard equivalent to a "Half Moons" illumination/Full Moons Illumination!

In any event,I believe that is the correct formula.


----------



## JohnnyMac (Dec 29, 2013)

markeday said:


> I just got this light about a month ago,I bought this, the tn30xm-l2 and the lynx.On the carrier of the tn30,there's a screw,so when your tightening the head down,the spring drags,on the carrier in the 32 ,its more like a rivot,no drag.My fit and finish are perfect on mine as well,I really like it,the beam has a lot of spill.Question,when you guys measure beam distance,is it done with a formula or with an actual tape measure?


A little of both, actually. Measure out the distance between the light and the lux meter. In this instance I measured from 30ft or 10 yds. 



The formula for throw is "Distance * √(lux/.25)"
At 10 yds. I saw 2710 lux.
Our formula would be 10*√(2710/.25)
 Take your measured lux and divide by .25 to get 10840 (2710/.25=10840)
10*√(10840)

Find the square root of 10840 to get 104.1
To convert this number to distance multiply it by the number of units you measured at. In my case I measured at 10 yds. 10*104.1=1041 yds of throw This is how you get the throw distance to .25 lumens which is considered ANSI lumens.
To convert that back to lux @ 1 yd take your throw distance of 1041 and square it to get 1083681 then multiply it by .25 to get your lux @ 1yd = 270,920 lux at 1yd
To to convert it to lux at 1 meter convert your distance in yards to meters to get 951.9 meters of throw. Next just do the same as you did in the previous step: 951.9 squared to get 906113.61 then multiply that by .25 to get 226,528.4 lux @ 1m


----------



## TEEJ (Dec 29, 2013)

JohnnyMac said:


> A little of both, actually. Measure out the distance between the light and the lux meter. In this instance I measured from 30ft or 10 yds.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





I think it would be less confusing if you skipped the yard measurements, and just used the actual meters so that the cd could be easier to see.

When you use lux at one yard instead of lux at one meter (Headings in first page, etc) its hard to tell if you were mixing them up or not.


In this post, I see that you did measure at yards, instead of at meters, which is odd, but, obviously works. (Was there a reason you measured out 10 yards instead of 10 meters?)

So it has ~ 226 k cd, which is excellent! (Its also a LOT higher than the 130 k cd they specify?)


If the only increase TN is mentioning is the added lumens, the throw would go up proportionally, to ~ what they claim for ANSI throw...but no where near what you measured. IIRC, the TN31 was rated at ~ 75k cd? 

Now, if they under rated it (A possibility), then the proportional increase is going to reflect that, etc...so, overall, what do you think TN is doing as far as going from their TN31's claimed 75 kcd, up to their claimed 132 kcd, vs your 226 kcd?

Selfbuilt for example got closer to 113 kcd on his TN31 review. It was rated for 75 kcd. MOST makers, you'd think, would want the cd rating to be as high as possible, so, consistant under rating, by SUCH a large factor, seems odd. 

As both you and Selfbuilt for example showed evidence of TN under rating their lights in this series, by a huge margin, what do you think is at play?

Other than upping the lumens, is the reflector different than the TN31's?



Thanks, its an EXCELLENT review!

:thumbsup:


----------



## Mr. Tone (Dec 29, 2013)

Great job on the review. That is cool that they are using a copper mcpcb and mounted that to a copper slug. There aren't any other manufacturer's driving the XM-L2 from the factory at this current that I am aware of. I know the Eagletac MX25L3 XM-L2 has to be over-driven to get the OTF numbers they have but it is probably 4-4.5 amps before step down, is my guess. This does look to be around 6 amps from the numbers you are getting. It is too bad Thrunite didn't get accurate numbers to advertise for this light since the underrating is enough to probably diminish possible sales. I think being conservative is good but not by this much.


----------



## TEEJ (Dec 29, 2013)

Mr. Tone said:


> Great job on the review. That is cool that they are using a copper mcpcb and mounted that to a copper slug. There aren't any other manufacturer's driving the XM-L2 from the factory at this current that I am aware of. I know the Eagletac MX25L3 XM-L2 has to be over-driven to get the OTF numbers they have but it is probably 4-4.5 amps before step down, is my guess. This does look to be around 6 amps from the numbers you are getting. It is too bad Thrunite didn't get accurate numbers to advertise for this light since the underrating is enough to probably diminish possible sales. I think being conservative is good but not by this much.



Yeah, this is way past conservative. 132 kcd vs 226 kcd is not even close. 

As the lumen ratings appear to agree (Between TN and CPF), all that's left, to explain the cd discrepancy, is if TN used the incorrect TN31 rating, added the proportional increase in lumens to the increase in new cd, to get the new TN32 cd rating....but, all of THAT means that either there's no way that they are actually measuring the cd, or, that they _are_ measuring it, _properly_, and all of us at CPF who check it, for whatever reason, grossly _over estimate_ what that cd is.

So, which is it?


----------



## JohnnyMac (Dec 29, 2013)

TEEJ said:


> I think it would be less confusing if you skipped the yard measurements, and just used the actual meters so that the cd could be easier to see.
> 
> When you use lux at one yard instead of lux at one meter (Headings in first page, etc) its hard to tell if you were mixing them up or not.
> 
> ...


LOL...actually there was a reason I used yards instead of meters. It's exactly 30 feet from my kitchen counter to the far wall in the next room so I went with that.  It really makes little difference as long as you can convert from one to another easily enough and you can. Originally I only had yards posted in the review but I did go back and update with distance and lux in meters.

Now as for why ThruNite seems to underestimate their figures (at least their lux/throw) I really don't know. The TN31 has had many owners seeing closer to 130kcd so for ThruNite to list the TN32 at 130kcd is a real puzzler to me. Being puzzled by this I decided to get an answer form the horses mouth. I was skyping with David, the owner of ThruNite, earlier tonight and I asked him why they list the lux so low. His answer? "I think we will buy another lux meter." ROFL! The guy is great and builds a hell of a product. His answer really cracked me up though. Anyway, hopefully they will get a new meter and update their figures. Heheheh

I also asked him to confirm the driver output and he told me that it is 6 amps which is just as I suspected.

Thanks for the kind words on the review. :thumbsup:


----------



## TEEJ (Dec 29, 2013)

JohnnyMac said:


> LOL...actually there was a reason I used yards instead of meters. It's exactly 30 feet from my kitchen counter to the far wall in the next room so I went with that.  It really makes little difference as long as you can convert from one to another easily enough and you can. Originally I only had yards posted in the review but I did go back and update with distance and lux in meters.
> 
> Now as for why ThruNite seems to underestimate their figures (at least their lux/throw) I really don't know. The TN31 has had many owners seeing closer to 130kcd so for ThruNite to list the TN32 at 130kcd is a real puzzler to me. Being puzzled by this I decided to get an answer form the horses mouth. I was skyping with David, the owner of ThruNite, earlier tonight and I asked him why they list the lux so low. His answer? "I think we will buy another lux meter." ROFL! The guy is great and builds a hell of a product. His answer really cracked me up though. Anyway, hopefully they will get a new meter and update their figures. Heheheh
> 
> ...





LOL

That's great.



I was wondering if he was actually doing ONE METER measurements to get the lux at one meter. I have seen this done, and, for real throwers, as you already know, you have to be further away.

I think Saabluster measured the TN31 at closer to 130 kcd when he was looking at modding it to the TN31mb for example. (So the proportions between 130 kcd and 1147 lumens, is at least ball park for the proportions that result if it's jumped to 1702 lumens)


So, If Dave gets a good NIST calibrated lux meter, and measures the lux at the BEST range to get the real cd, that would (I'm guessing) solve the discrepancy, AND boost his sales, more than paying for a really really good meter.


----------



## JohnnyMac (Dec 29, 2013)

TEEJ said:


> LOL
> 
> That's great.
> 
> ...


Well, TEEJ, I asked David at what distance he was measuring the lux on the TN32 and the answer was 2 meters. Explains everything. I told him that was way too close and to test from at least 10 meters distance and convert back. He just got back to me with his answer. Are you ready? 240kcd! w00t! Now that's more like it!


----------



## Mr. Tone (Dec 29, 2013)

Hopefully David will now properly measure his lights lux at a distance and convert back. Goodness, the reason we buy these thrower lights is mostly for that lux figure alone! It is funny that he was doing it that way. Look at it this way, your review will hopefully help Thrunite sell more lights by accurately listing their light's throw figures! Like TEEJ said, the listed lux measurement vs real is too far off from reality. 

It is great to see Thrunite driving this well heat-sinked beast at 6 amps, way to go Thrunite! Now Thrunite just needs to measure 3 or so of these the same way and take the average throw figure and edit that on their web page and advertisements. It is obviously too late to change the packaging/printing on the box/manuals but they could do like Eagletac and just put a sticker on there with the correct/current updated info.


----------



## ven (Dec 30, 2013)

WOW what a fantastic thorough review:thumbsup: very interesting with the cd info and the response from thrunite made me:laughing:

I dont own any"proper throwers" and out of this and the tk61 i am swinging to thrunite.Looks a very well made light of excellent quality


----------



## rdrfronty (Dec 30, 2013)

Johnny, I understand your use of the nice consistent 30ft distance you measured out. Exact & consistent measurements are critical when you are dealing with serious throwers. A foot here or there can skew numbers pretty badly.
But what you might want to do is just convert your yards to meters before you do the Kcd calculations. Even though I'm from Texas, these forums are very international. I think most people are just use to seeing Kcd numbers based on 1 meter, as is the standard from manufactures. I was a dummy and misread the 270 vs 226 on your other thread. You did nothing wrong and provided all the proper numbers and data. I think that I like many might, are looking for a quick number from a chart, we might not see you posted both measurements. 
So instead of using the 30ft, you could just use 9.144m (meters calculated from 30ft). It calculates super easy from that number. 
Basically you do 9.144 X 9.144 x (tested number) = Kcd. 
And keep up the great work - awesome review on a great light!


----------



## TEEJ (Dec 30, 2013)

I'd like to also ask, while we are splitting hairs, etc...

As you said its exactly 30' from the wall to the counter, did you, for example, account for the thickness of the lux meter sensor itself, which was against the wall?


----------



## Roger Ranger (Dec 30, 2013)

For those who missed this posting on Thrunite's Thrunite forum, the Administrator answers the TN31 throw paradox: why the Tn31 xm-l2 has a 840 meter throw. It appears to be a measurement issue. 



Icon said:


> Can you give an explanation of why it is a lot brighter, but has only 727 meters throw, when the TN31 has 840 meters throw?]
> 
> 
> Sorry for the issue.
> ...


----------



## TEEJ (Dec 30, 2013)

There is no one perfect distance to measure all throwers at....ideally, you take a series of measurements at progressively longer ranges, and use the one that results in the highest cd.

It can be 5 M or 15 M, or more, depending on how the beam shapes with distance.


----------



## olemil (Dec 30, 2013)

To the OP, thank you for the very detailed and great review. In fact it was so good I had to order one of these today to add to my collection (I really don't have any long range throwers....yet). Couldn't resist buying a quality built thrower for the money and found it for $143. Thanks again for a great review. :thumbsup:


----------



## JohnnyMac (Dec 31, 2013)

I have edited the OP with an edit at the very bottom. Speaking with David, the pill is definitely not pure copper but an alloy. He is finding out form his engineering people what the composition of the brass is. Their testing shows it not to be a factor in performance or reliability compared to the original aluminum pill. Pure copper is insanely difficult to machine properly and they figured an alloy was the next best thing. Anyway, once I get an answer from him on the alloy composition I will pass along the info. It's still an awesome light!


----------



## JohnnyMac (Dec 31, 2013)

olemil said:


> To the OP, thank you for the very detailed and great review. In fact it was so good I had to order one of these today to add to my collection (I really don't have any long range throwers....yet). Couldn't resist buying a quality built thrower for the money and found it for $143. Thanks again for a great review. :thumbsup:


What an incredible deal, Olemil! Congrats! Others might want to know where you found it.


----------



## olemil (Dec 31, 2013)

I found it at IS. The promo code is on the first page of their scrolling ads at the top of website. Hope others enjoy the savings, now I just have to wait for it to arrive. Thanks again for the great review!! *Update:* I just tried the promo code I used yesterday and it says it's now expired. Guess I timed that right, but there is still another code that gives you almost as good of deal (15%).


----------



## Overclocker (Dec 31, 2013)

JohnnyMac said:


> [/FONT][/COLOR]*The light provided in this review was provided by ThruNite-store.com
> 
> Edit: I will say that there has been confusion over the material used in the pill. It is definitely not pure copper and frankly I find it totally understandable. It is a copper alloy which, in reality, is merely brass. Pure copper is a bear to machine on a good day and far to soft for threads to hold up reliably, especially in the piece that will be threaded and unthreaded every time the batteries are changed/charged. Is it really any better than having used the same aluminum pill that is found in the TN31? Many might argue that it would be better with an aluminum pill instead of brass (copper alloy to the marketing folks) but their testing gives them the confidence to drive the light at 6+ amps and still cover the light with the standard warranty. My testing showed no issues and lumen output on Turbo only dropped by 80 or so in the first 30 seconds and I don't consider that to be too bad.
> 
> I have asked the owner of ThruNite what exact composition of the brass is used in the TN32. He is checking with his engineering team and promises an answer ASAP. Considering that there are dozens of different types of brass it is not worth assuming that the worse type for thermal efficiency was used. Should it matter that much to you then just get a TN31 and perform the resistor mod on it to achieve the same output levels. I find the new design far more appealing cosmetically and am not worried about performance issues.




well it's a marketing gimmick. they needed to differentiate this from the TN31 otherwise it would seem like just resistor mod, which is is actually haha

the thermal conductivity of the pill isn't critical anyway, it is after all just single emitter driven at 6A, not a lot of heat for a host of this size. so they figured they could probably get away with using an off the shelf brass round stock. then make it shiny

coz bling sells LOL


----------



## Aahhyes68 (Dec 31, 2013)

Very good review. Thank you. The TN32 sure looks pretty impressive. I already ordered a TK75 with ext run kit but I'm sure I won't be disappointed.


----------



## Capolini (Dec 31, 2013)

Aahhyes68 said:


> Very good review. Thank you. The TN32 sure looks pretty impressive. I already ordered a TK75 with ext run kit but I'm sure I won't be disappointed.


 I agree with you!! The TN32 does look impressive and I will bet that you will NOT be disappointed with the TK-75!!

I have had mine a year and also have the extra battery kit!

*HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU AND ALL OF US FLASHAHOLICS AND THEIR FAMILIES!!!:thumbsup:

KEEP ON LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS!!!*


----------



## pebbles (Jan 1, 2014)

Seeing as the *TK75* came into the conversation and comparisons will be made with the *TN32...*

this is a website claim for XML2 U2 version of *TK75*: *119,500 cd*. 

Is _this_ number "right"? Or does Fenix understate _its_ performance? 

If it is correct, *TN32*'s cd is roughly twice that of a *TK75 *according to the adjusted numbers presented in the discussion. 

Or am I missing something obvious?


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 1, 2014)

pebbles said:


> Seeing as the *TK75* came into the conversation and comparisons will be made with the *TN32...*
> 
> this is a website claim for XML2 U2 version of *TK75*: *119,500 cd*.
> 
> ...










selfbuilt measured the TK75 at around 92,500

TN31 at 112,800


----------



## Capolini (Jan 1, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> selfbuilt measured the TK75 at around 92,500
> 
> TN31 at 112,800


 ummmmmmmm,,, Did you know that the TK75 has an original[92000cd] and a new [119,500cd]??!!!


----------



## TEEJ (Jan 1, 2014)

The XML U2 was rated lower than the XML2 U2 LED equipped TK75, hence the difference in throw and lumens.

The XML version was rated at 2600 L and the XML2 version was rated at 2900 L.

That's ~ 12% increase in lumens.

With a triple LED reflector, the way the beam is collimated is differently than for a single LED version...so changes in "apparent surface brightness" and the resultant throw can be interesting.

A ~ 30% increase in throw from a ~ 12% increase in lumens doesn't work mathematically in of itself, unless the upgrade was either underestimated initially (Not according to SB), or, over/under estimated/stated after the upgrade, or, the upgrade included more than a 12% increase in lumens, such as an improved reflector and/or resultant collimation as far as cd went, etc. (The improvement was not proportioned to all areas, such as spill of corona, but, mostly to the hotspot, etc)

If you use the ~ 119.5 k cd for the current XML2 version of the TK75, its still surpassed by a good margin by the new TN32. (The TN32 with ~ 226.5 k cd, has almost double the cd of the new TK75's ~ 119.5 k cd)


----------



## Roger Ranger (Jan 1, 2014)

Where's the beef? The TN32 weighs 664g on my wife's food scale. The TN31 is said to weigh 452g. Where's the extra ~1/2 pound going? I wish I owned a TN31 to compare it to. Great review! This is a wonderful light.


----------



## pebbles (Jan 1, 2014)

Yes, it is a hefty light. At 6'1" and large hands, it's a beast. But if, as I speculated, this 3x18650 has significantly better throw than the smaller, yet 4X18650 tk75, and with comparably okay running times, I am liking TN32, not to be confused with TN31.


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 1, 2014)

Capolini said:


> ummmmmmmm,,, Did you know that the TK75 has an original[92000cd] and a new [119,500cd]??!!!




yeah but selfbuilt didn't review the XML2 version... but the 119,500 seems believable

at any rate the TK75 of any version won't come anywhere near these true throwers. my k40 dedomed and with resistor mod does over 300,000. probably more coz my meter consistently under-rates vis a vis selfbuilt's numbers


----------



## ggroyal1117 (Jan 1, 2014)

My TN31 weights 725g (1lb 9.6oz) with 3400ma batteries and lanyard.


----------



## Capolini (Jan 2, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> yeah but selfbuilt didn't review the XML2 version... but the 119,500 seems believable
> 
> at any rate the TK75 of any version won't come anywhere near these true throwers. my k40 dedomed and with resistor mod does over 300,000. probably more coz my meter consistently under-rates vis a vis selfbuilt's numbers



I was just pointing out that you missed/forgot what the new version[cd's] of the TK75 is. If you are comparing one torch to another, it is good[and only fair] to use the updated[new]/Max versions!! 

I certainly believe the specs. of my new OSTS TN31mb!!!Certified at 470Kcd!!! It is awesome! :thumbsup:.

My TK75 is not suppose to come close to that[and other modded lights] and apparently your K40 doesn't come close to my OSTS TN31mb!

Why should I change now??!! [Open, honest and DIRECT!!]

What baffles me and is a bit comical yet unacceptable is how a major Flashlight manufacturer has to be told how to properly measure cd's in order to get accurate beam distance specs.!!! :shakehead:laughing:


----------



## pebbles (Jan 2, 2014)

JohnnyMac should be elevated to flashoholic immediately for writing such an in-depth breakdown. 

Plus he skypes with flashlight company owners!

I wish the TN32 numbers were right to begin with. 

I spent a fair amount of time debating between the TK75 and TN32. 

The unadjusted numbers were actually very close (and puzzling to me for a number of reasons). 

Had I known how huge the lux gap was,

it would have been no contest. I wonder if Thrunite will edit the info on the website.

How much energy does it take to change a few numbers?

If they don't, it makes me wonder what is going on.

Maybe most people buy flashlights without looking at the specs that closely, 

and it is only aficionados and the curious who delve into such matters.

Anyway, thanks for the great review.


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 2, 2014)

Capolini said:


> My TK75 is not suppose to come close to that[and other modded lights] and apparently your K40 doesn't come close to my OSTS TN31mb!




oh don't be too sure of yourself 

my name is overclocker if you haven't noticed  (glances at a drawer of sinkpads, dedomed LEDs, SMD resistors, etc)

but you know what concerns me is why everyone is letting thrunite get away with LYING about a fundamental part of the flashlight. a "solid copper heatsink" certainly shouldn't be BRASS


----------



## Capolini (Jan 2, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> oh don't be too sure of yourself
> 
> my name is overclocker if you haven't noticed  (glances at a drawer of sinkpads, dedomed LEDs, SMD resistors, etc)
> 
> but you know what concerns me is why everyone is letting thrunite get away with LYING about a fundamental part of the flashlight. a "solid copper heatsink" certainly shouldn't be BRASS



I thought your name was in reference to "Over sleeping"!!! lol!!! 

Have a nice day!! 

p.s.Please mod a TK75 to at least 500Kcd for me!!Must be certified!

I will sacrifice my Girlfriends b'day present for it!!


----------



## pebbles (Jan 2, 2014)

So it is definitely not solid copper??

I get why that would be hard to pull off machine-wise.

But why say something that isn't remotely true?

Or does this stuff go on all the time?


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 2, 2014)

pebbles said:


> So it is definitely not solid copper??
> 
> I get why that would be hard to pull off machine-wise.
> 
> ...






> Aluminum 247 W/m-K
> Aluminum (6061) 171 W/m-K
> Aluminum (6063) 193 W/m-K
> Aluminum (7075-T6) 130 W/m-K
> ...



yeah it's brass, not SOLID COPPER, a material with WORSE thermal conductivity than the 6000-series aluminum that are usually used for flashlights. 

why would thrunite say something like that? well as i've mentioned before these big lights aren't really thermally bottlenecked so using brass shouldn't be a problem. i think thruite wanted something new to differentiate it from the TN31 coz it's practically the same light just with a different sense resistor. perhaps they were banking on people's ignorance of the thermal characteristics of brass vs copper. or perhaps they thought copper is the same as brass LOL

the latter isn't as far fetched as you think given that thrunite doesn't even know how to properly measure the throw on their newest flashlight hahaha


----------



## pebbles (Jan 3, 2014)

Okay. 

So how did they jack up the lux so much? A different sense resistor? 

If so, why wasn't this thought of before? 

There aren't too many off-the-shelf lux ratings like this.

Isn't one of the aims to have ultimate throw without dedoming?


----------



## harrycolez (Jan 3, 2014)

Is the stepdown due to heat or just to avoid killing the led?


----------



## =the= (Jan 4, 2014)

pebbles said:


> So how did they jack up the lux so much? A different sense resistor?
> 
> If so, why wasn't this thought of before?


Different sense resistors, but also at least one additional component. Let's say that you *don't* want to bridge the resistors in this model. _[Mode 4: 5.5A+ to the emitter, mode 5: *poof*, and then there would be the 6th mode..]_

I think they thought of this only after seeing it being done by you flashaholics. So many test samples done by you without any major problems => they finally decided to go for it. 

Edit: Noticed that I'm unenlightened, so changed "us flashaholics" to "you flashaholics"


----------



## TEEJ (Jan 4, 2014)

Remember that some of the "Jacking up" was correcting a measurement error. IE: Measuring at a distance that did not allow beam collimation. 

So, overall, its a combination of errors, and its hard to say that all of the errors were on purpose, as the collimation error reduced the claimed throw, by a large factor....and was not in their favor, at all. In fact, I'm sure it cost them a lot in sales.


The brass vs copper issue is a horse of a different color. That could be anything from a translation error, to a supplier error, or, a purposeful attempt to get on the "copper bandwagon", by pretending to have copper and then substituting brass. (Anyone want to calclate the cost per light for CHROMED brass vs copper?)


Chrome plating it then confuses things even MORE. Is it an attempt to camouflage the deception, or a marketing thing added after the original design to "purdy it up"?

It would NOT be an engineering decision relative to heat, as the shiny chrome would REDUCE radiant heat loss, defeating the main purpose of shedding heat in the first place. (A shiny silver/reflective surface is worse for radiating heat...a flat black surface radiates heat best for example) It MIGHT be to improve wear (Copper is soft).


----------



## valravn (Jan 7, 2014)

I just recieved mine, and hell this an impressive light.
The box it comes in is very nice too and protects it well.

First impression: it feels great to hold, and fits my hand well even though it is a bit top-heavy. some more weight in the back could improve feel greatly.
It is ver good machined, only slightly less perfect than my SRT7 or fenix L20 which are the only ones i have that compare. 
There was some grey in the lube (Al dust maybe) so i cleaned and relubed it straight away. 
I also pressed some lube under the control ring and warmed it up. removed the grinding noise.
The threads are well cut, but they could still be slightly better. (just a nitpick).

Performance is as expected: VERY impressive. the control ring runs smooth with little play, if the indentations on it were slightly deeper, one-finger operation would be easy. as it is, i need two.
The brighness levels are all good but it feels like there is a "gap" between two and three.
_two _outthrows my LD20 and _three _outthrows my SRT7.

Level three and above has very useable spill too. 
The transition between hotspot and and outer spill has some irregularities but i doubt anyone will notice it on other things than white walls..
I guess it is very hard to get a reflector of this size, this perfect at reasonable costs..

Over all, i'd say this (together with my other light) pretty much completes all my flashlight needs for years to come 


edit: do you think i could remove the chrome plating without doing any damage? i really like brass


----------



## Matt.m (Jan 7, 2014)

Just curious. Any benefit of ordering directly from thrunight-store.com vs ordering from their eBay page?


----------



## JohnnyMac (Jan 7, 2014)

GUys, it's more that they were ignorant of how poor brass was compared to copper. I had to show them that even though brass was mostly copper, when copper is combined with zinc it makes a poorer thermal conductor than copper or zinc alone. At this point it is too late to make any changes in the TN32 but on my recommendation they are going back to their standard aluminum alloy of 6061 in all future models. It's a hard learned lesson on their part but they understand now. The chrome was for bling factor and the brass was just ignorance on their part. The light is still quite fine the way it is though and I am very happy with mine as should anyone who buys one.

The step down in turbo is not a thermal step-down but a timed one done to protect the severely over driven emitter.


----------



## TEEJ (Jan 7, 2014)

JohnnyMac said:


> GUys, it's more that they were ignorant of how poor brass was compared to copper. I had to show them that even though brass was mostly copper, when copper is combined with zinc it makes a poorer thermal conductor than copper or zinc alone. At this point it is too late to make any changes in the TN32 but on my recommendation they are going back to their standard aluminum alloy of 6061 in all future models. It's a hard learned lesson on their part but they understand now. The chrome was for bling factor and the brass was just ignorance on their part. The light is still quite fine the way it is though and I am very happy with mine as should anyone who buys one.
> 
> The step down in turbo is not a thermal step-down but a timed one done to protect the severely over driven emitter.




Holy crap, really?


----------



## Mr. Tone (Jan 7, 2014)

JohnnyMac said:


> GUys, it's more that they were ignorant of how poor brass was compared to copper. I had to show them that even though brass was mostly copper, when copper is combined with zinc it makes a poorer thermal conductor than copper or zinc alone. At this point it is too late to make any changes in the TN32 but on my recommendation they are going back to their standard aluminum alloy of 6061 in all future models. It's a hard learned lesson on their part but they understand now. The chrome was for bling factor and the brass was just ignorance on their part. The light is still quite fine the way it is though and I am very happy with mine as should anyone who buys one.
> 
> The step down in turbo is not a thermal step-down but a timed one done to protect the severely over driven emitter.



Since this light is marketed primarily towards flashaholics I, too, doubt that they were trying to deliberately deceive anyone with their marketing. They know we examine and critique things to the small details. It is still a good light with an improperly named "solid copper" heatsink.


----------



## JohnnyMac (Jan 7, 2014)

TEEJ said:


> Holy crap, really?


Believe it or not, it does appear that way. Anyway, now that they are straightened out, we don't have to worry about that mistake again. I am eagerly awaiting the new TN35 for review now. Once I have that in hand we will know if my advice was taken to heart or not but I believe it has. Mmmm...2700 OTF goodness from an MT-G2...yowza!!


----------



## TEEJ (Jan 7, 2014)

Ironically, its seems to be a great light, and, most of the mistakes didn't hurt anything but their sales when they under rated the performance.

If it had been a series of mistakes that had OVER rated the performance by the same margin for example, no one would believe it was accidental.


Its scary that engineers didn't know the differences in brass vs copper, or that chroming would hurt heat dissipation, how to measure a key aspect of their own product's performance, etc.

Maybe this will motivate them to look into issues related to flashlight performance OTHER than from a marketing stand point?



Imagine how good their NEXT flashlights could be!


----------



## JohnnyMac (Jan 7, 2014)

TEEJ said:


> Ironically, its seems to be a great light, and, most of the mistakes didn't hurt anything but their sales when they under rated the performance.
> 
> If it had been a series of mistakes that had OVER rated the performance by the same margin for example, no one would believe it was accidental.
> 
> ...


Hehehe...all true, Teej! You have no idea just how awesome some of the stuff they have coming up is. I have glints into some of the new stuff and it's pretty damned impressive.


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 7, 2014)

WTF they should hire a CPFer as a technical consultant 

lemme guess? they also thought that kapton tape increases thermal conductivity that's why they decided NOT to remove it on their copper stars?


----------



## valravn (Jan 7, 2014)

JohnnyMac said:


> The step down in turbo is not a thermal step-down but a timed one done to protect the severely over driven emitter.



From one day of hands-on testing, i can say this light heats up very evenly. not saying the material is a wise choice, but in the thickness they used it gets its job done very well.
just to be on the safe.. you think i should thermal paste the driver circuit? i got a pot of nocturna NT-H1 (nonconductive) left over..

Now that i have used it in the woods, i can say, that i really dont actually need those sick lumens. what i however need without suspecting before is that tight beam pattern 
illuinating a narrow single trail without geting blinded by the spill is amazing! but the spill is still enough and very even. I used mostly setting two and three. 1 is very nice too if you want even less light, and level 4 on rarer occasions is a nice to have. 5 and 6 is for me definitely overkill, mostly for impressing people and generally goofing around.. :devil:

i'd give up on level 5 and 6 if it made the light magically smaller, without affecting beam pattern..
maybe theres an xp-g2 light that does exactly that..?


----------



## CaptainRogersUK (Jan 7, 2014)

I LIKE THE look of the TN32, i hope its a vast improvement over my TN31 since my two modes (low and medium) have stopped working, currently in talks with Vinh, to see if he can sort the problem out  I can't wait for the new ThRUnite gear as when the TN31 did work for the first two weeks it out blASTD all my other flash lights


----------



## Mr. Tone (Jan 7, 2014)

JohnnyMac said:


> Believe it or not, it does appear that way. Anyway, now that they are straightened out, we don't have to worry about that mistake again. I am eagerly awaiting the new TN35 for review now. Once I have that in hand we will know if my advice was taken to heart or not but I believe it has. Mmmm...2700 OTF goodness from an MT-G2...yowza!!



What is this TN35 you are speaking of?


----------



## JohnnyMac (Jan 7, 2014)

Mr. Tone said:


> What is this TN35 you are speaking of?


As posted by ThruNite in their forums...
====================================
Specification

Emitter: XLamp MT-G2
Bttery: 3*18650
Max output: 2600 lumen
Peak Beam Intensity: 58400cd
Max Beam: 468m
Input Voltage Range: DC 8v-13v
Water Proof: IPX-8 1.5m
Impact resistance: 1.5m
Reverse polarity protection: Yes
Reflector: Super Smooth
Demension: 201.70mm(lenth)*79mm(bezel diameter)
Lumen & Runtime:1lumen(46days),40lumen(4days),380lumen(10h ours),930lumen(220min),
1600lumen(100min),2600lumen(100min), Standby(1200days) 
Material: Aircraft Grade Aluminum and Copper circuit warehourse
Surface Treatment: Premium Type Ⅲ hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish
================================

Since that information was posted almost a month ago I'm willing to bet that the lux measurement is WAY off the mark and erroring on the low side.  David now tells me to expect 2700 lumens in Turbo and he also mentioned 700m of throw. I need to confirm whether or not the "copper circuit warehouse" will be changed back to an aluminum 6061 pill.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Jan 7, 2014)

So is this light going to use the TN31/32 platform? As in the same battery carrier, body, etc. with a head and reflector designed for the MT-G2?


----------



## Glowman (Jan 7, 2014)

Knowing its brass and its consequences, the next question is will it run on turbo mode until the battery runs out? or run it long enough like a TN31 can without damaging the LED. I know it has timed step down, then let it be. Just curious if the light with its brass material, destroy the LED eventually. What if the copper pad inside is running too hot and you can't feel the heat on the body well enough to prompt you to take action like turning it lower or off.

Anyone here who has a thermal scanner do some tests on the temperature difference between the copper pad and the brass pill? Hopefully compare it with TN31's.


----------



## valravn (Jan 8, 2014)

it swiches down after 60s. by about 100 lumens. barely noticeable.


----------



## Capolini (Jan 12, 2014)

Glowman said:


> Knowing its brass and its consequences, the next question is will it run on turbo mode until the battery runs out? or run it long enough like a TN31 can without damaging the LED. I know it has timed step down, then let it be. Just curious if the light with its brass material, destroy the LED eventually. What if the copper pad inside is running too hot and you can't feel the heat on the body well enough to prompt you to take action like turning it lower or off.
> 
> Anyone here who has a thermal scanner do some tests on the temperature difference between the copper pad and the brass pill? Hopefully compare it with TN31's.



GREAT QUESTION!!!
I hope someone can answer it for [Us] !!! Can it sustain MAX output after the minimal step down for the duration of the battery charge? even though I am not running my torches as much on 100% max, I would like to know if I can!! For the most part I run my TK75 on max[minus step down] for the duration of the battery charge. Now that ,my Orbtronic 3400's are getting a bit weaker at 16 months old,I need to use high for 15 minutes of my 70 minute mini hike w/ Capo!


----------



## mckeand13 (Jan 12, 2014)

Regarding the brass vs. copper debate...

Has anyone actually removed some of the chrome plating and verified that it's brass or why has it been mentioned by several people?

Maybe I missed it. Show me.


----------



## Roger Ranger (Jan 12, 2014)

They actually describe the heat sink as "solid" rather than "pure" copper. It looks pretty solid to me.


----------



## Capolini (Jan 13, 2014)

I just ordered one last night! Looks like a great stock torch. Now my OSTS TN31mb will have a little Brother who can pack his own punch!

I just hope the US. Mail does not divert it to the wrong city like they have[again!] with my X10vn that should have been here today!


----------



## mmander (Jan 13, 2014)

Just wanted to say "thank you" to JohnnyMac for a great review, an excellent write-up with testing, and lots of great close-up photos of the TN-32, both assembled and disassembled! :thanks:

I actually ordered my TN32 "blind" a few days before this review. A little earlier in 2013, I had come very close to ordering first a SupBeam K40, then a TN31, then a K50, then just a TN31 *head* to, hopefully, mount to my SupBeam X40 battery tube. In the end I held off on all those options. When I saw the TN32 announced and started perusing the specifications, I decided this would be the "super thrower" light I finally buy. Getting a great deal on this brand-spanking-new light at IS in December was a surprise too, not much more than I nearly paid for just a TN31 head!

Anyway, when JohnnyMac's review was posted here before I received my new TN32, it came as quite a surprise that it was an even better performer than Thrunite had specified. Totally cool! :twothumbs The review really made my day when I read it! 

Now that I've had my TN32 for a little while, I have to say, what an amazing light. I was at my dad's on the weekend and from his back porch I spent a minute shining it around the neighbourhood to show him. I couldn't find anything far enough away to actually challenge it, no tree tops or buildings were outside of its reach from his back porch. He was amazed. The first time I took it out somewhere away from the city and shone it around with dark adapted eyes, I was impressed at how far it seemed to reach, and after checking out Google Earth afterwards I was truly astounded. No problem seeing the beam light up some dark green evergreens at 800 meters and at 400 meters, it was easy to see lots of detail, especially after mounting the light on a tripod and stepping 5 meters off to the side to get well away from the beam's backscatter. I also took some 400 meter beam-shots (published on my blog here), carefully comparing it to all of my other brighter lights. It definitely impressed the heck out of me!

Anyway, looking forward to my planned trip down to the US southwest in April (Utah, Arizona, New Mexico and probably as far south as Texas) where I will likely be doing some "long distance" light-painting with it too, with luck at some cool places like Arches National Park and so on.

It's amazing that JohnnyMac, and many others, put so much time and effort into detailed reviews. It has really helped me make good decisions on all of the other lights I have bought, and I can honestly say that there have never been any surprises. They always performed pretty much exactly as I had anticipated and their operation and build were never a disappointment, thanks to all the superb reviews published here on CPF! :bow:


----------



## harrycolez (Jan 14, 2014)

Since photos rarely do justice, do you think the TN32 has a beam that is suitable for lighting up ahead of you for a walk or hike? Or is it too narrow?

Also does this use a different reflector than the TN31? If not, how is the lux so much greater than the TN31?
Thank you for your time.


----------



## mckeand13 (Jan 14, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> but you know what concerns me is why everyone is letting thrunite get away with LYING about a fundamental part of the flashlight. a "solid copper heatsink" certainly shouldn't be BRASS



Overclocker,

Would you mind sharing how you have determined that the heat sink is brass and not copper as advertised? It's a pretty bold statement to say that Thrunite is lying about the material so I would assume you've verified it.



TEEJ said:


> Chrome plating it then confuses things even MORE. Is it an attempt to camouflage the deception, or a marketing thing added after the original design to "purdy it up"?



Why not chrome plate it? Copper tarnishes quickly which then doesn't look all that nice. It's certainly not a consistent finish. It also makes your hands stink if you're holding it.


----------



## Capolini (Jan 14, 2014)

harrycolez said:


> Since photos rarely do justice, do you think the TN32 has a beam that is suitable for lighting up ahead of you for a walk or hike? Or is it too narrow?
> 
> Also does this use a different reflector than the TN31? If not, how is the lux so much greater than the TN31?
> Thank you for your time.



IMO you should have sufficient light for a walk/hike. I have used the OSTS TN31mb to walk my Dog[!!] and that puts out about 900 lumens w/ 470Kcd!! This stock TN32 has more lumens, more flood and obviously less throw because it is a stock torch,a nice one at that!

I believe your other questions are answered in this review and/or Flashlions review of this light. I will say that I believe the this is an updated LED[ XM-L2]. TN31 has an XM-L LED. More of a reason why it can "Throw" further is the Amps have been increased to an estimated 6 AMPS according to JohnnyMac. 

I am taking a guess and saying the reflector is the same as the TN31?

I hope that helped! I am getting mine Tomorrow or Wednesday and will be able to confirm all of your questions!

In the meantime,others may be able to validate the Reflector and explain things in a more scientific way!!.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Jan 14, 2014)

mckeand13 said:


> Overclocker,
> 
> Would you mind sharing how you have determined that the heat sink is brass and not copper as advertised? It's a pretty bold statement to say that Thrunite is lying about the material so I would assume you've verified it.
> 
> ...



Here is the reason why he is saying that.



JohnnyMac said:


> I have edited the OP with an edit at the very bottom. Speaking with David, the pill is definitely not pure copper but an alloy. He is finding out form his engineering people what the composition of the brass is. Their testing shows it not to be a factor in performance or reliability compared to the original aluminum pill. Pure copper is insanely difficult to machine properly and they figured an alloy was the next best thing. Anyway, once I get an answer from him on the alloy composition I will pass along the info. It's still an awesome light!


----------



## mckeand13 (Jan 14, 2014)

Mr. Tone said:


> Here is the reason why he is saying that.



Ah, didn't make it all the way to the end of the review yet.

It's not worth debating or derailing this thread any further so I'll bow out after this. Unless somebody gets the true answer directly from Thrunite it's purely speculation anyway.

I will say that just because Thrunite says it isn't pure copper, it's kind of silly to jump to the conclusion that it's brass. Pure copper isn't used a lot in that form. For most uses it's alloyed with other materials to change the properties to something more desirable for the task. Many times the alloys still maintain 99.xxx % copper so it's pretty far fetched to call it brass just because it's a copper alloy.

Do you have copper pipes in your house? They aren't pure copper but that doesn't mean they are now brass. Are Sinkpad's brass? They certainly aren't pure copper.

Let's see what information Thrunite comes back with. Who's in contact with them?

Ultimately it doesn't matter if it's brass or copper. The TN32 is an awesome light and I'll be ordering one soon.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Jan 15, 2014)

^

Yes, this light seems to be very nice, indeed. The OP of this thread is the one in actual contact with the owner of Thrunite, whose name is David. So the source of the metal info came direct from the owner. However, I believe you are right in saying let's wait to see what the actual composition of the metal alloy is before getting too worked up. I do not believe the OP has heard back from Thrunite with any more info on this matter.


----------



## TEEJ (Jan 15, 2014)

Just to clarify why chrome is bad on a heat dissipation system. ...it radiates heat worse than almost any other finish.


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 15, 2014)

mckeand13 said:


> Ah, didn't make it all the way to the end of the review yet.
> 
> It's not worth debating or derailing this thread any further so I'll bow out after this. Unless somebody gets the true answer directly from Thrunite it's purely speculation anyway.
> 
> ...




LOL. we would never get a straight answer from thrunite regarding the true composition of the alloy. naturally they'd rather be quiet about it have you HOPING that's it's actually a reasonably high thermal conductivity alloy

so let's refer to occam's razor. you really believe that thrunite went out of their way to obtain special exotic stiff-yet-thermally-conductive alloys instead of just simply going with the off the shelf brass round stock that's readily available when they know that the flashlight isn't thermally-bottlenecked in the first place


----------



## olemil (Jan 15, 2014)

Capolini said:


> GREAT QUESTION!!!
> I hope someone can answer it for [Us] !!! Can it sustain MAX output after the minimal step down for the duration of the battery charge? even though I am not running my torches as much on 100% max, I would like to know if I can!! For the most part I run my TK75 on max[minus step down] for the duration of the battery charge. Now that ,my Orbtronic 3400's are getting a bit weaker at 16 months old,I need to use high for 15 minutes of my 70 minute mini hike w/ Capo!


I too wish someone would actually test this mystery material that the heat sink is made out of to see if it will do the job it is supposed to. Personally I think it does a pretty darn good job of transferring the heat, chrome plating and all. I don't have a high end ir thermometer so I wouldn't even attempt to do a scientific test on it. My feelings are if anyone already owns the TN32 and are upset about the debate of pure copper vs. brass, send it back. If you don't own this light and are upset about the material, DON'T BUY IT!!! I love the light and could care less if the chrome is hiding a chunk of plastic, it works and I will keep on using it. :thumbsup:


----------



## Diesel Pro (Jan 15, 2014)

JohnnyMac said:


> GUys, it's more that they were ignorant of how poor brass was compared to copper. I had to show them that even though brass was mostly copper, when copper is combined with zinc it makes a poorer thermal conductor than copper or zinc alone. At this point it is too late to make any changes in the TN32 but on my recommendation they are going back to their standard aluminum alloy of 6061 in all future models. It's a hard learned lesson on their part but they understand now. The chrome was for bling factor and the brass was just ignorance on their part. The light is still quite fine the way it is though and I am very happy with mine as should anyone who buys one.
> 
> The step down in turbo is not a thermal step-down but a timed one done to protect the severely over driven emitter.



Thanks for the review and also the open and honest comments. Ignorance is the key word here and I completely agree. It's like someone with little to no knowledge of building lights decided that a brass allow would be a strong selling point. This scares me away from a light that really intrigued me. Now if they were to do a running change to an aluminum alloy, I'd give it much stronger consideration.


----------



## mckeand13 (Jan 15, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> you really believe that thrunite went out of their way to obtain special exotic stiff-yet-thermally-conductive alloys instead of just simply going with the off the shelf brass round stock that's readily available....



Nope, noting special or exotic at all. 

I believe they purchased some copper which is readily available at any metals supplier.

Back to the review......

That reflector is really deep! Very cool looking. I guess it's that depth that makes it throw like crazy.

Very cool beam shots here:

http://mikemander.blogspot.com/2014/01/thrunite-tn32-comparison.html


----------



## Capolini (Jan 15, 2014)

olemil said:


> I too wish someone would actually test this mystery material that the heat sink is made out of to see if it will do the job it is supposed to. Personally I think it does a pretty darn good job of transferring the heat, chrome plating and all. I don't have a high end ir thermometer so I wouldn't even attempt to do a scientific test on it. My feelings are if anyone already owns the TN32 and are upset about the debate of pure copper vs. brass, send it back. If you don't own this light and are upset about the material, DON'T BUY IT!!! I love the light and could care less if the chrome is hiding a chunk of plastic, it works and I will keep on using it. I feel bad for the OP doing this great review (Thank You!!) and having it turn into a big mess like this for no reason.



*What is wrong with asking a question?? That is how we get informed!

Are you insinuating that I turned this into a big mess for no reason??!!!

If you have not noticed, reviews are done in order for us to learn more about the torch. Asking SPECIFIC questions is all part of the process! So if you are upset at me and a few others for trying to gather information, then I guess you will be upset a lot if you want to continue to participate in this forum. *

p.s I bought the torch and it will be here tomorrow!!! lol.


----------



## JohnnyMac (Jan 15, 2014)

Mr. Tone said:


> ^
> 
> Yes, this light seems to be very nice, indeed. The OP of this thread is the one in actual contact with the owner of Thrunite, whose name is David. So the source of the metal info came direct from the owner. However, I believe you are right in saying let's wait to see what the actual composition of the metal alloy is before getting too worked up. I do not believe the OP has heard back from Thrunite with any more info on this matter.


I haven't gotten an answer on the exact type of brass used except to say that it is brass. On the bright side, they won't be using it on any other lights in the future. I'm still thrilled with the light and I honestly believe anyone else would be as well if they had it. Yeah, technically it's not the best choice they could have made but it does work sufficiently and it could always be worse.


----------



## olemil (Jan 15, 2014)

Capolini said:


> *What is wrong with asking a question?? That is how we get informed!
> 
> Are you insinuating that I turned this into a big mess for no reason??!!!
> 
> ...



Nope, wasn't pointing any fingers at you or anyone else directly (sorry), just wondering why this whole copper vs brass debate is such a big deal. I know (now) Thrunite didn't state the true metal used in the heat sink and are being spanked over it now. Everyone makes mistakes and some get caught, others don't but at least they did admit it in a round about way. Regardless I think this is a really great light for the money and it would be hard to beat with out spending a lot more $$$$. Sorry for my post sounding harsher than it was supposed to, just want to get along and engulf all the information on here just like everyone else. Congrats on the new lite, you WILL like it guaranteed!!! _P.S. I edited my previous post, wasn't trying to offend you or anyone else._


----------



## JohnnyMac (Jan 15, 2014)

olemil said:


> I too wish someone would actually test this mystery material that the heat sink is made out of to see if it will do the job it is supposed to. Personally I think it does a pretty darn good job of transferring the heat, chrome plating and all. I don't have a high end ir thermometer so I wouldn't even attempt to do a scientific test on it. My feelings are if anyone already owns the TN32 and are upset about the debate of pure copper vs. brass, send it back. If you don't own this light and are upset about the material, DON'T BUY IT!!! I love the light and could care less if the chrome is hiding a chunk of plastic, it works and I will keep on using it. I feel bad for the OP doing this great review (Thank You!!) and having it turn into a big mess like this for no reason.


Thanks for the kind words, Olemil. It's always encouraging when efforts are appreciated. 

I do have an infrared thermometer but I wish that I had a good contact thermometer to test it with. Unfortunately polished chrome is not a good surface to get accurate readings from using an IR thermometer. It tends to reflect and read lower temps than what they really are. As for turning into a big mess...I don't see it that way. It's a learning experience for everyone and, to me, an embarrassing one TBH. Oddly enough, I was discussing the TN32 with a friend of mine and he informed me that in China the general populace considers brass and copper to be the same thing and that them claiming it to be copper could simply have been a cultural misunderstanding. Either way it was an unfortunate misunderstanding on ThruNite's part and I don't believe for a minute that it was intentional deception on their part.

On another note, does anyone here have an Olight SR95/90 that could say what the pill in that is made of? I've looked up reviews and have never seen anyone take it apart beyond unscrewing the battery tube. I've heard rumors that it's brass and would like to confirm if that is actually true.


----------



## mckeand13 (Jan 15, 2014)

JohnnyMac said:


> I haven't gotten an answer on the exact type of brass used except to say that it is brass. On the bright side, they won't be using it on any other lights in the future.



JohnnyMac,

Did Thrunite mention whether or not they would be updating all of their advertising now that they are saying its brass rather than copper? It would be nice to see that cleared up and reflect the truth. 

Thanks again for the in depth review!


----------



## olemil (Jan 15, 2014)

JohnnyMac said:


> Thanks for the kind words, Olemil. It's always encouraging when efforts are appreciated.



You are welcome and thanks again for your great review and all the leg work you've done on this. Sorry for posting this as turning into a big mess, I have edited my previous post since I jumped the gun a bit stating that. I do have a thermal probe for my Fluke but not sure how accurate that would be for testing this. I think it does a great job but I am no expert by any means so I will leave it at that...lol. Please keep up the great work!!


----------



## JohnnyMac (Jan 15, 2014)

Capolini said:


> *What is wrong with asking a question?? That is how we get informed!
> 
> Are you insinuating that I turned this into a big mess for no reason??!!!
> 
> ...


You are exactly right. Reviews are exactly for learning about a lights strengths and weaknesses.

And you better let me know how you like your TN32 after you fire it up tomorrow.


----------



## JohnnyMac (Jan 15, 2014)

mckeand13 said:


> JohnnyMac,
> 
> Did Thrunite mention whether or not they would be updating all of their advertising now that they are saying its brass rather than copper? It would be nice to see that cleared up and reflect the truth.
> 
> Thanks again for the in depth review!


I suggested they change the info in their marketing and site and they said they would. I don't think they have yet. I will have to remind him about it and see what he says.


----------



## mckeand13 (Jan 15, 2014)

JohnnyMac,

Since it sounds like they recognize they made a poor choice of material (as compared to aluminum like the TN31) do they have any plans to make a running change and eliminate the brass?

I don't care for the chromed section. I think the black anodized section of the TN31 looks a lot nicer.


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 15, 2014)

mckeand13 said:


> Nope, noting special or exotic at all.
> 
> I believe they purchased some copper which is readily available at any metals supplier.
> 
> ...




off the shelf copper is still way too soft for this flashlight application with thin walls and all. also very difficult to machine, gums up your bits. i know coz i used to make waterblocks for overclocking...

it is brass, straight from the horse's mouth

and as i said it doesn't make sense to speculate that it might be some exotic thermally-conductive brass alloy. it's just a flashlight, not the large hadron collider. they used common brass round stock for the TN32


----------



## Capolini (Jan 16, 2014)

*THROWERS: THE THRUNITE BROTHERS :thumbsup:
TN32-230/240Kcd and his Brother OSTS TN31mb-470Kcd







 THRUNITE BROTHERS AND FRIENDS! :twothumbs

FAR LEFT: OLIGHT M3X-91Kcd Middle:TN32-230/240Kcd, OSTS TN31mb 470Kcd-END: TK75-119.5Kcd [STOCK]





*


----------



## mckeand13 (Jan 16, 2014)

mmander said:


> Getting a great deal on this brand-spanking-new light at IS in December was a surprise too,



What was the great deal I missed out on?


----------



## ven (Jan 16, 2014)

Capolini................... simply awesome:twothumbs


----------



## JohnnyMac (Jan 16, 2014)

ven said:


> Capolini................... simply awesome:twothumbs


Agreed!!


----------



## Capolini (Jan 16, 2014)

ven said:


> Capolini................... simply awesome:twothumbs



Thank You! :thumbsup: I forgot one for *"THRUNITE AND FRIENDS " Photo!! 
My X10vn that I got on Tuesday!! I did post pictures of that one on Vihns thread!


*


----------



## olemil (Jan 16, 2014)

Capolini, NICE collection!! Have you had a chance to do any comparison tests between the 31 & 32 yet? I knew members said they were almost identical and wow they sure do look the same. I do like the black over the chrome for sure, guess I should have went with a 31...lol. PS, that Olight looks sweet!!!


----------



## Capolini (Jan 16, 2014)

olemil said:


> Capolini, NICE collection!! Have you had a chance to do any comparison tests between the 31 & 32 yet? I knew members said they were almost identical and wow they sure do look the same. I do like the black over the chrome for sure, guess I should have went with a 31...lol. PS, that Olight looks sweet!!!



I just got the TN32 a few hours ago!! It will be dark in 40 minutes!:twothumbs 

Besides the Chrome on the TN32 they[TN31] LOOK exactly alike but MUCH different!

The OSTS TN31mb-470Kcd is a MODDED LIGHT! It is unbelievable!! It is like a Laser of light!

After my 3.7 mile Dog mini hike w/ Capo I am going to the Golf Course w/ my TN32, TK75, Olight M3X and of course the OSTS TN31mb!!! I mostly want to compare the Modded TN31 with its brother the TN32!

I wish I had sophisticated camera equipment but I do not. I have a Canon Elura 100 cam corder that I got for my trip to Italy in 2006! It is a very nice camcorder but It does not take great night pics. and night video.:mecry::mecry::mecry:


----------



## Mr. Tone (Jan 16, 2014)

^

Nice pics, man! I will be very interested to hear your comparison between the TN32 and TN31mb. Your dog is going to go crazy with all the light-saber action. You will have attach some kind of saddlebag to your dog so he can help haul around your cache of flashlights, kind of like the ones they use on a donkey. oo:


----------



## easilyled (Jan 16, 2014)

I've been reading through this thread with interest and noticed that there was some confusion/controversy over the choice of heat-sinking. The points below may help to shed some light on this or perhaps they will stir the pot further, but this is not my intention.

1) I have been informed that in China, brass and copper are often both described as copper, due to only having one word to describe both these metals in Chinese. Since brass is a copper alloy and the type of copper used for most engineering purposes is also an alloy (just with a higher percentage of copper) then this may not be quite as shocking as it first may appear. It also makes me think that no deception was intended.

2) Some posters have said that since Aluminium is a better conductor than brass, then it should be used instead. However, I don't think its quite as simple as that. I think Aluminium may have better conduction per unit mass than brass, but considering that for the same volume, brass is much heavier than Aluminium, then there will be much more mass of brass to conduct the heat. It takes more energy to heat up a heavier mass which will result in greater heat transfer away from the emitter until a steady state is reached.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Jan 16, 2014)

Very good points, easilyled.


----------



## Capolini (Jan 16, 2014)

Cool Picture *MR. TONE *!!!! 

Well.........It looks like the TN32 has the same ailment as my TK75 DID!!! 

*"CONDENSATION UNDER THE LENS SYNDROME"!*


NO WORRIES,,YET! Mr. Thrunite TN32 will be rooming with Mr.Fenix TK75 in the "Silica Gel treatment Room" when they are Idle!!! lol!

I learned a lot from many of you when I started a thread called, TK75-Condensation under the lens, again!

It disappears after the light is off 5-10 minutes. I noticed after 33 minutes on max,,,,,temp. was 31F. Not sure when it started to form. 

NO WORRIES,,,,,,,,,*SILICA GEL TREATMENT ERADICATED THE ISSUE W/ TK75 I AM CONFIDENT IT WILL DO THE SAME FOR MR. THRUNITE,,,TN32!!


OTHER THAN THAT,,,,,,The TN32 is an AWESOME torch:thumbsup:

Mr. Thrunite TN32 and Mr. Fenix TK75 are in treatment now!!! Tomorrow night I am going to bring the OSTS TN31mb out and compare it to the TN32. I would have done it tonight but 65 minutes on level 6 [max] depleted the batteries!
*


----------



## Mr. Tone (Jan 16, 2014)

I had the condensation problem with my TN31mb, too. Get rid of that moisture and let us know how the comparison goes after tomorrow night.


----------



## Capolini (Jan 16, 2014)

Mr. Tone said:


> I had the condensation problem with my TN31mb, too. Get rid of that moisture and let us know how the comparison goes after tomorrow night.


 
Really? Wow! My OSTS TN31mb has never shown signs of condensation. I have used it a dozen times or so,mostly on max for about an hour!

I have a pretty good IDEA what the Two will look like together. The TN32 sheds a lot more peripheral light and the OSTS TN31mb is like a focused enlarged laser beam!As I indicated in an earlier post,,,I wish I had a camera with better night capabilities than my 2006 Canon Elura 100 Camcorder that I got for my first trip to Italy!


----------



## TEEJ (Jan 16, 2014)

Capolini said:


> Really? Wow! My OSTS TN31mb has never shown signs of condensation. I have used it a dozen times or so,mostly on max for about an hour!
> 
> I have a pretty good IDEA what the Two will look like together. The TN32 sheds a lot more peripheral light and the OSTS TN31mb is like a focused enlarged laser beam!As I indicated in an earlier post,,,I wish I had a camera with better night capabilities than my 2006 Canon Elura 100 Camcorder that I got for my first trip to Italy!



LOL

I was in Italy in 2005...we just missed meeting there!


----------



## Mr. Tone (Jan 16, 2014)

It only showed up when out in the cold, of course. When the light is so tight and there is that much volume inside it was just a by-product.


----------



## Capolini (Jan 16, 2014)

Mr. Tone said:


> It only showed up when out in the cold, of course. When the light is so tight and there is that much volume inside it was just a by-product.



That is good[only showed up in the cold]

My TK75 was a different story! It fogged up through all Four seasons! I learned a lot because of that by starting a thread and people helping me. It drove me NUTS!! I always have to know the answer,,,it came! Silica Gel treatment for maintenance,,,,,,,*Condensation eradicated!

I have faith that I will get the same results with my TN32[Silica Gel eradicating problem] If not I also have faith in my dealer, illumination supply,,,,,,,,they have always been awesome for any issue I may have had with something I bought from them. :thumbsup: Fenix outfitters was the same way!

All of the sudden I am a Man of Faith!! See what you guys have done to me! lol! Who knows what tomorrow may bring! :thinking: It is getting near that time,,,,,,,,,:sleepy:,,,,,,,,the little emoticon is dreaming about his torches!!!

p.s. I am interested how the TN32 will perform tomorrow night with only One[1] night of Silica Gel treatment! In the beginning My TK75 always had at least Three days of treatment before I used again.
*


----------



## mmander (Jan 16, 2014)

mckeand13 said:


> What was the great deal I missed out on?



There was a 20% off December sale on many items at Illumination Supply and the TN32 was included in that promo. I almost didn't punch in the promo code, thinking that surely they wouldn't allow it to be applied to a brand new and just shipping, fairly high-end flashlight. I'm glad I tried it!


----------



## Hot Brass (Jan 17, 2014)

mmander said:


> There was a 20% off December sale on many items at Illumination Supply and the TN32 was included in that promo. I almost didn't punch in the promo code, thinking that surely they wouldn't allow it to be applied to a brand new and just shipping, fairly high-end flashlight. I'm glad I tried it!



Maybe you got the last one,cause now they are on back-order. Where else can I buy that's reputable?.Thanks, HB


----------



## Capolini (Jan 17, 2014)

Hot Brass said:


> Maybe you got the last one,cause now they are on back-order. Where else can I buy that's reputable?.Thanks, HB



I just got mine yesterday from illumination Supply,,,,,,,,,I may have gotten the last or one of the last b/4 back order started!

If you can wait, it will be worth it. There is a CONSTANT COUPON CODE[15% off] FOR FLASHLIGHTS AND BATTERIES[ I think it around 10% off]!

*Flashlight code: Illumination Battery code: ISPower*.

They are awesome in the way they handle any issue that may arise! Last summer I had a minor issue w/ my I4 charger[one of the lights]. They sent me another one for FREE and did not want the TEMPORARILY defective one back!! They were on sale for $16. I basically got two for $16!!

I paid $152.00 for my TN32 W/ THAT CODE. :twothumbs

Battery Junction is a good place but they do not carry the TN32[they have other Thrunites]. 

My personal preference is to ALWAYS purchase with in the U.S.A. It is easier and the warranties are handled much better with less hassle. :thumbsup: Plus,you can CALL them!!Unless, you speak Chinese and want skype or use a calling card!!

Example: Illumination supply and Fenix Outfitters for me!

Good luck,,,,,,,,,,,It may be worth it to get one on back order if you can wait. It would be hard to beat their[IS] price and customer service.


----------



## Hot Brass (Jan 17, 2014)

Capolini said:


> I just got mine yesterday from illumination Supply,,,,,,,,,I may have gotten the last or one of the last b/4 back order started!
> 
> If you can wait, it will be worth it. There is a CONSTANT COUPON CODE[15% off] FOR FLASHLIGHTS AND BATTERIES[ I think it around 10% off]!
> 
> ...



Hi: That code (ISPower) does not work for me....also shipping is $33.43 to Canada...not much of a deal for me?! Thanks,HB


----------



## Capolini (Jan 17, 2014)

Hot Brass said:


> Hi: That code (ISPower) does not work for me....also shipping is $33.43 to Canada...not much of a deal for me?! Thanks,HB


 Wow!! THAT SUCKS! 

Shipping costs that much to Canada even w/ orders over $100?

Ispower is just for batteries. Illumination is for flashlights.

Anyway,,,,with shipping costs like that it would not be worth it. Maybe you have dealers in Canada? Hopefully someone can help you.


----------



## Hot Brass (Jan 17, 2014)

Capolini said:


> Wow!! THAT SUCKS!
> 
> Shipping costs that much to Canada even w/ orders over $100?
> 
> ...



I guess that "Free shipping over $100.00" pertains to the U.S. only?! ThruNite store shows "free shipping on orders over $75"....probably just the U.S.?. I will find out first before I buy. 
No dealers in Canada according to ThruNite! Don't really want to go to E-bay and buy direct from ThruNite China if I can help it! Thanks,HB


----------



## plexus (Jan 17, 2014)

I just got the TN32 from Illumination. I have the Nitecore TM26 but wanted a thrower. I am in canada and paid my $30 something for shipping. Well worth it. I was just outside comparing the TM26 and the TN32 - no comparison. they are very different lights and compliment each other very well. The TM26 is an incredible source of photos and will light up a large area very well with some decent throw capability but not into the realm of "thrower". When you need to focus those photons into a smaller area or need them to go a distance, the TN32 is the tool for that. For the kind of camping I do, both are necessary. So I am glad I got the TN32. Now... wait for the thaw and get out there and light up the forest!


----------



## Ryp (Jan 17, 2014)

plexus said:


> I just got the TN32 from Illumination. I have the Nitecore TM26 but wanted a thrower. I am in canada
> 
> So I am glad I got the TN26.



Wow weird, I'm from Canada + I have a TM26 and I want a TN32.

TN26? What is this new light of which you speak


----------



## Capolini (Jan 17, 2014)

plexus said:


> I just got the TN32 from Illumination. I have the Nitecore TM26 but wanted a thrower. I am in canada and paid my $30 something for shipping. Well worth it. I was just outside comparing the TM26 and the TN32 - no comparison. they are very different lights and compliment each other very well. The TM26 is an incredible source of photos and will light up a large area very well with some decent throw capability but not into the realm of "thrower". When you need to focus those photons into a smaller area or need them to go a distance, the TN32 is the tool for that. For the kind of camping I do, both are necessary. So I am glad I got the TN32. Now... wait for the thaw and get out there and light up the forest!


 Good luck w/ the TN32. 

I got mine yesterday and after 15/20 minutes condensation formed under the lens like my TK75 USE TO!! Silica gel eradicated that issue. Mr. Thrunite TN32 started treatment last night! Let me know if you experience that after running on Level 6 [turbo] for 20 or 30 minutes?

I walked the Siberian his 3.5 miles. I am going to feed him and then go to the Golf Course[perfect 600 yd. par 5 straight as an arrow with 80' Norway spruce as targets!] to test my TN32, OSTS TN31[470Kcd!] and my new X10vn!

The OSTS TN31mb already passed the test on level,3, 4, 5 and 6!!!! The TN32 will have no problem and the X10vn should make it! :thumbsup:


----------



## Capolini (Jan 17, 2014)

*GOLF COURSE TEST PART II!

Just to reiterate, the TARGETS ARE THREE 80' NORWAY SPRUCE BEHIND THE GREEN.

Just got back from the Golf Course,,got a hole in one! lol! The owner was there, he just got back from Florida and was having drinks w/ his friends.

Needless to say he was AMAZED at ALL Three torches, Especially the Two Thrunite Brothers,,,,,,,,,OSTS TN31mb and TN32! When I did a quick demo with the OSTS TN31mb he said, Holy %#@# !!! He and his buddies were also impressed w/ the TN32 and the X10vn,,,,a mini power booster thrower!

Anyway,these are just simple Tests to see if the torches can "illuminate" Three Norway spruce from a measured 600 yards. I already tested the OSTS TN31mb w/ my girlfriend on the green to verify Illumination of my targets. Amazingly it lit them up[partially at lower levels] on level 3,4,5, and 6!

Now to his brother my new TN32!! As I was preparing to test it a deer crossed the fairway about 100 yards in front of me. It took off at full speed and I followed it for about 400 yards until trees distorted my view!

It reached the trees on level 6, 5 and pretty certain on level 4. I was solo so until Barbara or someone else stands on the green I can not absolutely verify level 4.

That was my simple minded and exciting test! It is time to hit the hay! :sleepy:
*


----------



## plexus (Jan 17, 2014)

I just got back from a walk to the park. I brought the TN32 and TM26. It affirms in my mind that (for me) there is no one do it all flashlight. TM26 excels at lighting up the area. amazing the park which is a sheet of ice, 2 baseball fields square. The TN32 hits the back school wall quite a distance away. the TM is better for near-field work like a hiking light, or close proximity general illumination. it has some throw but it wouldnt be that usable in a critical situation. this is where the TN comes in. definitely could come in handy for critical situations or those where you need penetrating focused light. but the TN is not good for general illumination unless its reflected off a diffuse surface.


----------



## Capolini (Jan 18, 2014)

plexus said:


> I just got back from a walk to the park. I brought the TN32 and TM26. It affirms in my mind that (for me) there is no one do it all flashlight. TM26 excels at lighting up the area. amazing the park which is a sheet of ice, 2 baseball fields square. The TN32 hits the back school wall quite a distance away. the TM is better for near-field work like a hiking light, or close proximity general illumination. it has some throw but it wouldnt be that usable in a critical situation. this is where the TN comes in. definitely could come in handy for critical situations or those where you need penetrating focused light. but the TN is not good for general illumination unless its reflected off a diffuse surface.


 I understand where you are coming from!! 

That is where and why the TK75 is the best and closest torch in its equal, combined and impressive display of Throw and flood!

I am going to use the TK75 to light up the 9th hole[260 yds] and for certainty use the TN32 to follow the ball as the owner and his friends tee off!!! :thumbsup:

Unfortunately the local School has a great chance of taking the Golf course land through a law called "IMMINENT DOMAIN".


----------



## Capolini (Jan 20, 2014)

TN32 UPDATE

TN32 was "Idle" for 48 hours while getting "*SILICA GEL TREATMENT.

*Used it last night for about 50 minutes on Turbo and 10 minutes in other modes.

*RESULTS: NO CONDENSATION UNDER LENS!! :thumbsup:*

Initial success with Silica gel treatment,,,,,,*AGAIN!!*


----------



## mckeand13 (Jan 20, 2014)

Just wondering if the TN32 will be offered with neutral emitters? The TN30 & TN31 are both offered in neutral and I was hoping the TN32 would be as well.

For anyone who has received one, how's the tint with the U2 emitters? I don't do blue & purple, only white.

An email asking this question to Thrunite-Store has gone unanswered for over a week now. Can't fine a US phone number either.


----------



## JohnnyMac (Jan 20, 2014)

For those who are wondering, Here are the resistors in the TN32 that are modified from the TN31. This is what was hiding under the thermal grease.


----------



## Glowman (Jan 20, 2014)

What happened to the components on the right? It looks like it had been cracked/damaged. Was that modified?


----------



## Capolini (Jan 20, 2014)

Glowman said:


> What happened to the components on the right? It looks like it had been cracked/damaged. Was that modified?



I am guessing it is because they still have Thermal Grease residue on them. I don't think the components are damaged.


----------



## mckeand13 (Jan 20, 2014)

JohnnyMac said:


> For those who are wondering, Here are the resistors in the TN32 that are modified from the TN31. This is what was hiding under the thermal grease.




Now I'm confused. The picture shows a TN30 but you reference changes from the TN31. Did the TN30 & TN31 share the same boards? That doesn't seen right as those are 1 x XML and 3 x XML. Maybe that's a board related to the rotary ring and not the driver?


----------



## Glowman (Jan 20, 2014)

Capolini said:


> I am guessing it is because they still have Thermal Grease residue on them. I don't think the components are damaged.



Thermal grease did not obstruct the view of the SOT components (upper right) and clearly shows it had been chipped off. Can't be sure of the component (lower right), but really looks like it had been split and jumpered over. Hope mine did not look that way.


----------



## JohnnyMac (Jan 20, 2014)

Glowman said:


> What happened to the components on the right? It looks like it had been cracked/damaged. Was that modified?


Nope, nothing cracked or damaged. I wasn't able to remove all of the white thermal grease that had been covering all the components. THere is a fine wire across the top of the one chip and thermal grease is along the edge of the wire making it look like it might be cracked. It's not.


----------



## Capolini (Jan 21, 2014)

Glowman said:


> Thermal grease did not obstruct the view of the SOT components (upper right) and clearly shows it had been chipped off. Can't be sure of the component (lower right), but really looks like it had been split and jumpered over. Hope mine did not look that way.


 Looks like my vision is still pretty good!!


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 27, 2014)

here's a new twist on the "solid copper" debacle. now this "aerospace engineer" calls it "copper plating in a chromium circuitry"


----------



## easilyled (Jan 27, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> here's a new twist on the "solid copper" debacle. now this "aerospace engineer" calls it "copper plating in a chromium circuitry"



Ha, copper plating sounds rather unusual. Surely its more likely to be chrome plated brass or copper.
I suppose, the message to take home is that hopefully there's some copper in there somewhere!!! :shrug:


----------



## Fusion_m8 (Feb 21, 2014)

1700lumens? Should be just about bright enough for closeup map reading... but only just.


----------



## radu1976 (Feb 26, 2014)

OK, so they rated the runtime as : for 1,700 lumens - 1.5hrs; for 1,100 lumens - 2hrs !?
Something must be wrong here.
Selfbuilt got 1,100 lumens for 1.5hrs for the TN31 with XM-L emitter, regulation was excellent.
But ... is the XM-L2 so much superior to the XM-L so that it's puuting more than 50% light maintaining the same runtime. 
I am wondering if the TN32 runs in good regulation for that time.


----------



## mckeand13 (Mar 17, 2014)

I see the neutral version is available from a few sellers. Has anyone purchased one and can offer feedback on the tint?

The specs for both cool white and neutral state that they use a U2 emitter. Is that a mistake or does the U2 bin now have a 5000K tint option? 

Thanks.


----------



## panag (May 14, 2014)

JohnnyMac said:


> *ThruNite TN32 Tactical/Search Flashlight
> 
> *
> When ThruNite offered me the opportunity to review their newest update of the venerable TN31, the new TN32, I jumped at the chance. The TN31 has always been one of the best throwing and well respected flashlights designed for long range throw. With the release of the new TN32, ThruNite has upped the ante by adding a solid copper alloy (CuZn) pill and improving driver output to drive it's Cree XM-L2 to a claimed 1702 lumens. Does it live up to it's promise? Read on and see what my test results show. Let's start off with sharing the features and specifications from ThruNite-store.com
> ...


very nice review


----------



## panag (May 14, 2014)

tk61vn is better thrower!!!!!!:twothumbs


----------



## easilyled (May 15, 2014)

panag said:


> tk61vn is better thrower!!!!!!:twothumbs



Its a modified light.


----------



## ven (May 15, 2014)

easilyled said:


> Its a modified light.




+1 

Not fare to compare as someone can just say the deft x is a better thrower than the tk61vn

tn32 is standard and a very respectable thrower in its own right.


----------



## Richwouldnt (May 16, 2014)

Excellent review!! I note a lot of similarities between the ThruNite TN32 and my recently acquired Jetbeam RRT-3. The battery carriers are virtually identical appearing and both are quite similar size lights with magnetic ring mode control. Different LED arrangements and the ThruNite does not have provisions for a remote switch or weapons mounting accessories but to me the similarities are obvious. Do both lights come from the same factory or are their manufacturers associated corporately?

Looking at the photos I bet that the included holster for the ThruNite would also fit the Jetbeam perfectly.


----------



## Richwouldnt (May 21, 2014)

I just ordered one.

BTW has anyone actually checked the heat sink material? One poster listed the thermal conductivity of 30% zinc brass alloy but is that what is used or is it some other brass alloy or even a bronze? Both brass and bronze are generic terms which cover a multitude of alloys with different thermal characteristics. Unless a member has had the specific heat sink material lab tested for actual alloy and/or thermal conductivity then it seems like the heat sink material discussion is questionable other than apparently it is not pure copper.


----------



## liam_995 (May 22, 2014)

I am really tempted by the TN32 - it has a really usable low; an very nice thrower high; and all this at what seems to be one of the best price deals that I can find.

If anyone can point out a better deal - please do so.

:thinking:


----------



## IlluminatedOne (May 25, 2014)

I have one ordered from thrunite-store on the 22nd may cant wait for it to arrive.


----------



## UncleBuck2 (May 29, 2014)

panag said:


> tk61vn is better thrower!!!!!!:twothumbs



Ahhhh, but how will it stand up against the newly, not yet tested, TN32vn?


----------



## Swedpat (May 29, 2014)

I recently ordered a TN32 neutral. This despite I will not have any dark nights for more than 2 months in my location close to the polar circle. But I didn't want to miss this great light(if TN32 of any reason would be discontinued)... I really like the UI with the control ring of my TN35 and therefore I want TN32 as well.


----------



## Richwouldnt (May 31, 2014)

I got mine the other day and the first thing I found is that my battery holder would not accept batteries longer than about 68.4mm which is shorter than most protected 18650 cells. I posted about the problem in a separate thread and it was suggested that I use umprotected IMR cells. Another poster reported disassembling his battery holder and shimming under one end plate with washers. I went that route and shimmed under both battery holder end plates. The battery holder will now hold batteries up to 70+mm.

UPDATE:

I also contacted Thrunite and they have sent another battery holder, mailed from Singapore gratis. It is enough longer so as to allow 69mm batteries to be installed. Personally I feel that battery holders should be considered like rifle and pistol magazines and made a readily available accessory. If I were in military , search and rescue or police work, or into spelunking, the ability to have at least one spare loaded battery holder would be of considerable importance to me.


----------



## BlackICE (Jun 24, 2014)

Does anyone know the difference in output between the cool white and neutral version?


----------



## Swedpat (Jun 25, 2014)

BlackICE said:


> Does anyone know the difference in output between the cool white and neutral version?



I have no integrated sphere but use to measure lux value with ceiling bounce and then convert it to lumens. I got that my TN32 neutral has around 1300lm. But because TN35 has not really stated 2750lm but around 2500lm I don't know if the cool white really has 1700lm, so I don't know if that shows the correct difference. However; a neutral use to have around 80% of the output of a cool white so you can count on that.


----------



## BlackICE (Jun 26, 2014)

Swedpat, do you think the throw of your neutral TN32 is somewhat similar to beamshots you've probably seen of the cool white? I'm sure it throws less but do you think it's a lot less. Any regrets that you didn't get the cool white?


----------



## mckeand13 (Jun 26, 2014)

Why anyone would choose cool white when neutral is available is beyond me but that's a different subject.

The TN32 throws like crazy regardless of tint. It's like comparing an engine with 520hp or 500hp. Either way, a lot is a lot. 

Do yourself a favor. Buy the neutral and enjoy the heck out of it!


----------



## Swedpat (Jun 26, 2014)

BlackICE said:


> Swedpat, do you think the throw of your neutral TN32 is somewhat similar to beamshots you've probably seen of the cool white? I'm sure it throws less but do you think it's a lot less. Any regrets that you didn't get the cool white?



Anything else being equal the candela should be proportional to the lumen output. I have no regrets I chosed the neutral white, even if cool white throws better. I don't think the perceived difference is very big.


----------



## BlackICE (Jun 27, 2014)

Thanks guys. I'm going to go with the neutral.


----------



## Overclocker (Jun 28, 2014)

easilyled said:


> Ha, copper plating sounds rather unusual. Surely its more likely to be chrome plated brass or copper.
> I suppose, the message to take home is that hopefully there's some copper in there somewhere!!! :shrug:




it means he doesn't have a clue what he's talking about


----------



## easilyled (Jun 28, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> it means he doesn't have a clue what he's talking about



I'd be inclined to agree with you but I was using some good old-fashioned British understatement.


----------



## panag (Jul 21, 2014)

tn32vn!!!!!!:twothumbs


----------



## Knapweed (Jun 16, 2015)

I ordered a TN32 from Amazon.ca, based primarily on this review. It was a pleasant surprise to find the pricing was, dollar for dollar, the same as Amazon.com. Considering the exchange rate currently runs at 0.81, it means I got the light for $145.76 US! In fact, I ordered the complete kit with a TN32, MCC-4 charger and four 3400mAh batteries for $259.95 CA, which translates into $210.56 US - a fifty dollar saving. 

It appears this great deal is restricted to the TN32 and the various TN32 kits only, as the other Thrunites are adjusted for the exchange rate. Either way, Canadians are currently getting a great deal on this flashlight so, if you're a Canadian sitting on the fence, now is a good time to buy.


----------



## Amelia (Jun 16, 2015)

I've owned a TN32 for a little over a month now. My impressions of the light so far are that it is a very specialized piece of gear, but where it excels it is REALLY impressive!
I use mine in the car a lot, to find trailheads and other features at night before hikes. This thing is a BEAST - throws to the moon!
Way too bulky and heavy to actually hike with though, which is a shame... I really like the magnetic ring control and wonderful assortment of output modes.


----------



## chuckhov (Jun 16, 2015)

Amelia,

Did you get the NW?

Thanks,
-Chuck


----------



## Amelia (Jun 16, 2015)

chuckhov said:


> Amelia,
> 
> Did you get the NW?
> 
> ...



Is there any other kind of emitter? 

I had to get my NW emitter TN32 directly from Thrunite (off their Amazon storefront), couldn't find anything but Cool White anywhere else.


----------



## chuckhov (Jun 16, 2015)

Hi Amelia,

I knew the answer before I asked, but just wanted to know for sure that there was no Quantum Strangeness at work here

I don't have a super-thrower because I really have no need for one here, but I have often wondered which way I would go if I did get one...

Too much time on my old hands, I guess

Certainly it will throw farther than say your Eagletac MX25LC3 (Nichia), but which one "looks like" it has made the bigger difference to you - Which one impresses you the most, with the job of turning dark into light? - Which one paints the prettier picture of the night landscape? - Please try not to let the 'tint' influence you here, or I think that I already know the answer. - Imagine the tints are the same, if that's possible...

Which one is the most Fun?

Thanks for you thoughts on this...
-Chuck


----------



## Amelia (Jun 16, 2015)

chuckhov said:


> Hi Amelia,
> 
> I knew the answer before I asked, but just wanted to know for sure that there was no Quantum Strangeness at work here
> 
> ...



Chuck,
Thanks for asking such a great question! 
As I said, the TN32 is a highly specialized (and impressive) piece of gear - it is a throw MONSTER and is, without a doubt, my best throwing light. I find the spill beam less than adequate, though - it makes a very poor general purpose light. The fit/finish, UI, and overall quality are top notch, I really love this light for what it is. It is a limited light though, way too heavy and large for anything but the shorter walks or fixed location use.

The MX25L3C (Nichia 219 version), on the otherhand, is my favorite light EVER - from any manufacturer. It is what I would term a TRUE general-purpose light... it does a bit of everything, and it does it all really well. It has smooth broad flood, adequate throw for just about any real-world need, beautiful high CRI tint, and the ability to get to any mode I want rapidly, even from off. It is definitely one of the "funnest" lights I own, from any mode I can press/hold the switch and have an instant "wall of light" that punches a hole in the night like you wouldn't believe! My only complaint about the MX25L3C is the size and weight... if I could get the same performance out of something pocketable I'd buy 10, sell all my other handheld lights, and be happy in light nirvana! 

Anyway, long answer to a great question - I hope it has the information you are after.


----------



## chuckhov (Jun 16, 2015)

Amelia,

What you just gave me is like a beamshot of your experience, straight into my mind.

That's real passion!

Thank you,
-Chuck


----------



## michiganmade (Jun 16, 2015)

Very cool review. Thank you, I am just now getting into the candles. So much to read so little time..


----------



## JohnnyMac (Jun 16, 2015)

Chuck & Amelia, I can't tell you how much I enjoyed reading your conversation. You both have that passion that I sometimes lose touch with off and on over the past few years. I'm happy that my review played some small part in it coming here. You both inspire me and, I'm sure, others.


----------



## chuckhov (Jun 16, 2015)

Johnny,

When we put something out there into the universe, there is no telling who it may touch, nor just how it may touch them...But it will always come back home.

Your efforts are always appreciated. 

Thanks for all that you do!
-Chuck


----------



## Knapweed (Jun 18, 2015)

My TN32 arrived today, complete with MCC-4 Charger and four Thrunite 3400mAh batteries. It's a beautiful looking "Thing" with the sharp black, chrome accents and sparkly, almost "Jewel" like lens and reflector. Unfortunately, when trying to unscrew the base from the head, it was very difficult to turn. After I managed to unscrew it half way, I noticed part of the black "O" ring was sticking out from the base of the head, trapped, causing the difficulty in unscrewing it. After I managed to unscrew it, the "O" ring still appeared to be in good condition, so there was no need to replace it. Although the thread was well greased, the "O" ring didn't appear to be.

At the other end, the tailcap was also rather hard to unscrew initially but eased up after a couple of turns. Inside the base, there was some aluminium swarf, which I removed and neither the threads nor the "O" ring were greased, which probably explains why it was initially hard to unscrew.

Performance wise, the TN32 blows me away. I've never had a flashlight so powerful, or so good looking come to that, the closest being my "Sea Elite 1500", which is supposedly 1500 lumens but I'm guessing closer to about 700. Despite the trapped "O" ring, swarf in the clicky switch tailcap and lack of grease from new, I'm very pleased with my purchase and believe it will be excellent for its intended purpose.


----------

