# SHOW OFF YOUR CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!



## GRAY LITNIN (Nov 13, 2017)

Im not very good at searching the threads here yet but seems like the mods for convoy s2/s2+'s are kinda scattered out. I'd be very grateful if anyone could share any info/pics of thier s2 mods or at least point me in the right direction so i can steal some ideas!


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## camelight (Nov 14, 2017)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*

What do you want it to do?
More throw? Lumens? Mybe a triple or a quad?


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## GRAY LITNIN (Nov 14, 2017)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*

Not looking for specifics! I just want to see/read/learn all the cool, creative ideas that CPF minds have unleashed on Convoy s2 & s2+'s!

Led/driver/reflector swaps
Reliability upgrades (bigger wire/potting)
Custom machining
Aesthetics/ergos (anodizing, grip tape, checkering, glow paint, tritium...etc.)

ANYTHING GOES just convoy s2/s2+ though!


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## GRAY LITNIN (Nov 14, 2017)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*

Would this thread be better served in the Budget or General Section?


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## ven (Nov 16, 2017)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*

Many options, of course LED choices..........you can even go xhp50/70 if you want and feed it 2x 18350 cells for 8.4v. Triples, again with various LED choices(xpl HI work nicely, pick your flavour! 4000k is on the warm side and very nice, 5000k a nice happy medium. Some hi cri goodness, maybe a nichia 219b 4000k or 219c 4000k make a nice compact triple. 

By the time you have bought a decent driver, 3 LED's,optics, spacer ...........and s2 host. If high output and compact is the game, the Emisar D4 may make an easier choice for $40 ish. 

Still a nice s2+ triple with programmable driver is a cool light to have. Check mtn electronics for parts needed , lots of options. The h17f driver is very cool and allows 2 mode groups of up to 7 levels, each your choice in output. I have a couple of lights with that driver , i have a traditional 3 mode set up in 1 group, then a single mode do it all level in the other..............sometimes simple just works best. 

Top right


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## GRAY LITNIN (Nov 16, 2017)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*

Thanks again ven! You are a wealth of knowledge! Very nice collection as well!

I'll have to agree. Simple does work best. But if options are available even better!

I was looking for an S2, 4 level -low, med, high, battery check- and didnt see it in the options for either of the stock firmwares so that will be tweaked at some point.

I'm very picky when it comes to stuff so its hard for me to settle for awesome lights even at great prices when its not EXACTLY what i want. It's a curse really but has prolly saved my wallet some good hits. In the end i'd rather save up and put some work into it and make it the best i can! Thats one of the reasons i joined this forum, I've got what i need to get by just fine for now, but its time to make'em how i want'em! I'm doin lots of research and u guys are awesome at telling me if i can or can't achieve something within certain parameters!

By the way, how hot do the triple s2's get?


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## ven (Nov 16, 2017)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*

Nothing wrong with wanting to improve, its all good  You will find over time some UI's will be very close to what you want and can make work. A lot is trial and error, however there is enogh knowledge on here to narrow it down and maybe save you a few bucks along the way. 

Anything single 18650(maybe the odd exception) and 1000lm or more is going to get toasty quick(maybe 3 mins) so step downs, be it timed or the more preferred thermally controlled. Now the s2+ triples(LED/driver dependent) can be pushing 2000-3000lm(roughly) in triple guise(even more so potentially with a single xhp70 and run on 2x 18350 cells). So these are a more specialised light , by that i mean not a light to give to the uneducated or next door pensioner to look for a cent under the couch. So a little understanding of what potentially could happen, and what to do to prevent it from happening. Not leaving a high powered flashlight tail stood would be one of them, using the wrong cells and asking too much of them. Throwing in a back pack not locked out etc etc. Most is common sense, but unfortunately common sense is not that common. 

So the answer to your question depends a lot if its in a 25oC house or outside in 2oC temps, either way 30s-60s would be approximate. Simple rule regardless of the driver having a preset temp or step down, if its too hot to hold dial it down or turn off. The red s2+ is a gift and iirc its around 9-9.5a which is around 2800-2900lm. The gray one is 6a and maybe around 2500 ish lumens. These lights are not meant for long run times on max, more simply for short bursts. However with a nice driver, you can tweak to suit your needs, even adjust on the fly to suit another use whilst out. The h17f driver for an example, for $17 at mtn elecs is a super flexible driver.

Here is the instructions, as always a lot more complicated to read than to actually carry out and program. 

This is a custom driver board (H17F) with an enhanced version of lucidrv with some additional features. It has a diameter of 17mm with components on both sides, and provides a current of 3.0A (8*AMC7125) plus a direct drive FET for turbo modes.Low modes (up to 13%) are driven by a single AMC7135 IC (380mA), which allows very low moonlight/firefly modes and makes those modes also quite efficient (the LED is more efficient at lower currents). Medium and high modes up to 3.0A are driven by additional 7*AMC7135. The direct drive FET allows for turbo modes of 5A and more - but that depends on the battery (use a high drain cell with low internal resistance) and on internal resistaces of the flashlight (contacts, wires, springs, switch, and the forward voltage of the LED).

*Off-Time memory:* The driver distinguishes between being off for a short tap (half-press) on the clicky to change to the next mode and being switched off for a longer time (~0.5s) so that memory kicks in (or no-memory if configured that way).
*Two mode groups:* There are two easily switchable mode groups for different situations (e.g. one for indoors with moon and low modes, and one for outdoors with high/med). Each group is fully configurable with up to 7 modes and it's own memory type (see below).
*Programming:* Each mode can be configured to a one of the 24 available (visually linear) levels of brightness. There are also some special functions which can be configured to any brightnes level, too: strobe, beacon or double-pulse blink. The number of modes (1-7) and the memory type can be configured for each group.
*Memory:*No-memory, classic memory or short-cycle memory configurable for each mode group.
*Double-Tap mode:* A quick double-tap leads to an additional (programmable) mode (e.g. high or strobe) for each group. It can also be activated fromm off by a tap immediately after clicking on (click-tap; for reverse clickies), or by a tap immediately before clicking the light on (tap-click; for forward clickies)
*Mode locking:* Select any mode and use it for a second, then activate mode lock (see below). Then that mode is locked, it won't change to next mode any more (unless you unlock it again). Good for tactical or signaling purpose.
*Full thermal control:* The driver monitors the temperature and reduces power to avoid overheating. The power is constantly adjusted to keep the set temperature constant (PID control): If the light gets hot, the power is reuced, but if for example a better airflow enhances cooling, the power increases again. The driver constantly adapts to the cooling conditions; the better the cooling is, the brighter it will be. The target temperature can be configured in steps of 5°C, and thermal control can also be deactivated. 
Note that the temperature is measured at the driver and will be somewhere between the LED's and the body's temperature. It will reach the set temperature and start regulating down the power before the body reaches it's equilibrium temperature, which will also be lower than the (driver's) set temperature. Note also that the absolute accuracy of the temperature sensor is about +- 5°C 
The set temperature may be exceeded for a short time after changing to a high power mode when the light is already near it's set temperature, since activating a high power mode is supposed to give high power at least for a short time. The driver will soon start regulating down to reach the set temperature again.
*Bump proof:* If mounted on a bike, bumps may cause the battery to loose contact to the driver for a very short moment, which many drivers interpret as a button tap and change modes. This driver however ignores those bumps and keeps it's mode.
*Battery monitoring:* Whenever the battery falls below 3V under load, brightness is reduced (about half). The reduced load usually brings up the voltage a bit. When it drops below 3V again, brightness is halved again - and so on, down to a very low level. It will not switch off and leave you in complete darkness though.
*Voltage indicator:* The driver can show the battery status via some blinks; see below.
*Efficiency:* The luminous efficacy of the all modes except the highest 6 brightness levels is increased by using a truly lower current (triple channel design with a low current and two high current channels).
*Lower levels:* The triple channel design also allows for a higher dynamic range of brightness levels (12 bit), i.e. more lower levels.
*Turbo levels:* The additional direct drive FET channel allows for quite high currents for the two turbo modes: full turbo and an intermediate half-turbo. Actual currents depend on the battery and the flashlight hardware.
*16 kHz PWM frequency:* Invisible and inaudible.
*Configuration menu* (programming mode): Select a mode and use it for at least a second. That mode is then the selected mode for some of the actions below. Then enter programming mode by 8 rapid taps (half-presses; the light must be <0.2s on each time). You have to be quite fast, however it's no problem if you tap a few times more. 
Shortly after those rapid taps a blinking signal will be shown. This serves two purposes: It indicates that the light is now in its configuration menu (programming mode) and awaits further input, and it also serves as battery level indicator: The number of blinks indicates battery voltage, about one blink for every 0.12V above 3.0V without load (~10 is full (4.2V), ~4 is pretty empty). If you let them pass without tapping the button again, the config menu is exited without any change. 
If you want to change the configuration, you need to 'input' more taps while the blinking signal is active, the number of taps specifies the action. Note that the timing is more relaxed in the config menu; you have to be swift and uninterrupted, but by far not as rapid as the 8 taps above. However you must hit the exact number of taps. 
Some items in the programming menu have a submnu, indicated by a different blinking signal. You need to enter a nother sequence of taps then. 
Once you entered the config menu (by 8 rapid taps) and see it's signal, tap the button a number of times to do the following:

1 tap: Mode lock; lock the selected mode (see above). If locked, unlock.
2 taps: Switch between the two groups (also lifts a mode lock).
3 taps: Set brightness. The light will ramp the brightness up and down twice in 24 visually linear steps: From #2 (moonlight) to #22 (100%) the output doubles every 2 steps, #1 (firefly) is even lower, #23 if half-turbo and #24 is full tubo. Tap once when the desired brightness is reached to change the selected mode to this brightness.
4 taps: Enter the strobe/blink submenu, another sequence of 1-4 taps selects the special lighing function:
1 tap: constant brightness (normal mode).
2 taps: strobe (fast and disorienting).
3 taps: beacon (a short blink every 4s).
4 taps: double-pulse blink with oscillating brightness, i.e. does not blink on and off, but instead oscillates between high and low brightness (so the light is never off then). Not going off allows better estimation of your position/distance, while the blinking catches attention. This function is intended for cycling purposes (being seen).
All those functions can be combined with any brightness, and changing the funcion will not change the brightness.
5 taps: Add/Delete submenu, another sequence of 1 or 2 taps chooses between add or delete a mode t/from the active mode group:
1 tap: add a mode. The new mode is inserted at the position of the selected mode. Example: If you have 3 modes, L/M/H (with M selected), then add a mode, the result is L/M/M/H, i.e. the selected mode is doubled, and the first of them is selected. It can then be changed by entering the config menu again.
2 taps: delete the current mode from the group.

6 taps: memory subenu, another sequence of 1-3 taps selects the memory type for the active group:
1 tap: Set the memory type to no-memory.
2 taps: Set the memory type to classic memory (cycle through all modes).
3 taps: Set the memory type to short-cycle memory (after memory kicked in, skip to first mode; see below).

7 taps: Temperature submenu, another sequence of 1-12 taps selects the set temperature (default is 60°C): 
1ff 2:40°C 3:45°C 4:50°C 5:55°C 6:60°C 7:65°C 8:70°C 9:75°C 10:80°C 11:85°C 12:90°C
10 taps: Reset all configuration options to their factory defauls.
12 taps: Toggle prog-lock, disables programming the light. Mode lock and switching between mode groups (1 or 2 taps in the config menu) will still work, also 12 taps again to unlock, but all other config options won't.
Table of ramp steps:
step123456789101112131415161718192021222324current [mA]1.53.04.25.98.4121724344867951341902703805407601075152021503040moreeven morecurent [%]0.050.10.140.20.30.40.60.81.11.523579131825355071100semi-turboturbo
The steps 1 to 16 strongly profit form the higher efficiency at true lower currents, the luminous flux is thus a bit higher than the percentage values indicate. 
The lowest values depend on hardware manufacturing variations and thus vary.


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## GRAY LITNIN (Nov 17, 2017)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*

Wow, sounds like it'll do all i'll ever need! Are there any brands of components (drivers, emitters, switches, usb ports) known for durability? 

As far as resistance goes, does anyone make high qaulity silver or silver coated springs (silver has least resistance), or is it not feasible to use them because of reliability concerns or will it not make much difference as long as they are sized accordingly?

Some flashlight wiring diagrams would help me alot.

Where can i find info on questions similiar to this? I dont wanna get off topic here, just gathering more ideas, but i wanna post future questions in the proper place.


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## ven (Nov 17, 2017)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*

Some do a bypass at the tail cap, this lowers any resistance and allows the juice to flow more freely. For components, check mtn electronics out, Richard has lots of goodies on there. Not seen silver used, brass has been. With the spring, you need it to actually spring and not compress/distort under load. Basically to retain its shape and not stay compressed when the tail cap is removed. Gold plated beryllium copper seems popular for springs. 

Have a look at mtn elecs, components, driver etc etc for some ideas. Sure more can advise a lot better


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## GRAY LITNIN (Nov 17, 2017)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*

Thanks ven!!! Ima have to start looking some parts up!!!

Anybody else got any S2 mods they wanna show off? Who's put a usb port in one?

I know bout the BD03 but its gotta have an adapter which i'll lose for sure!


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## lotec25 (Nov 18, 2017)

Hello,

I am new to the flashlight modding, and I am looking at this flashlight for one of my first purchases. My question is on the battery. I would like to use the xhp70 LED and feed it 2x 18350 cells. My question is, the S2 calls for 1x [FONT=Open Sans, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, SimSun, 宋体]18650 cell. Is the 18350 the same circumference just shorter, and that is what allows you to use the 2 18340 cells?

Thanks [/FONT]


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## ven (Nov 19, 2017)

lotec25 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am new to the flashlight modding, and I am looking at this flashlight for one of my first purchases. My question is on the battery. I would like to use the xhp70 LED and feed it 2x 18350 cells. My question is, the S2 calls for 1x 18650 cell. Is the 18350 the same circumference just shorter, and that is what allows you to use the 2 18340 cells?
> 
> Thanks




18650. 18mm diameter, 65mm long, 0 =round/cyl
18350. 18mm diameter, 35mm long

So yes, same diameter, just length differences. The diameter is a little over 18mm as well.

Now the 18650 cells are usually 66mm+ and can even go up past 70mm with a PCB(protection circuit). Regarding 18350 cells, roughly 70mm+ with 2 in series so they can take the place of an 18650 cell giving a total of 8.4v . The length is a variable, so figures are rough.

You will need button tops to make contact between the 18350 cells in series(unless the flat tops are not that flat!). Very good 18350 cells right now are the aspire's, these come in around 1100mah. However they are not too easy to get hold of. Most other 18350 cells tend to be around 600-900 ish mah. Just make sure they are rated high enough and matched when bought(dont mix brands/mah and ages basically). 

:welcome:


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## lotec25 (Nov 19, 2017)

ven said:


> 18650. 18mm diameter, 65mm long, 0 =round/cyl
> 18350. 18mm diameter, 35mm long



That makes more sense now, I did not realize the number actually equalled the width and length. My next question is the LED star board. I do not see an XHP70 star board smaller then 20mm. Will a 20 mm board work in this light? I also read about having to shave the star board down, is that what I need to do in this instance? I am split between the S2 and the M1, not sure what light I want yet, I have just seen a lot of M1's with the XHP70 modded into them.

thanks


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## ven (Nov 19, 2017)

Your better off with an m1 over the s2 for the xhp70. Its a large quad die, generates a lot of heat! The larger size of the m1 helps dissipate the heat, even still 3000+ potential lumens is a lot for this host. So imo, m1 as not only with the size, but larger reflector to help with the beam. Orange peel will work nicely to smooth out the hot spot being a quad die..........

s2 is more popular for triples.


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## lotec25 (Nov 19, 2017)

ven said:


> Your better off with an m1 over the s2 for the xhp70. Its a large quad die, generates a lot of heat! The larger size of the m1 helps dissipate the heat, even still 3000+ potential lumens is a lot for this host. So imo, m1 as not only with the size, but larger reflector to help with the beam. Orange peel will work nicely to smooth out the hot spot being a quad die..........
> 
> s2 is more popular for triples.



So the 20mm star will fit in the M1 or the S2? or do I need to do shaving on the star?

Thanks again.


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## ven (Nov 19, 2017)

Don’t know that one, not sure on the sizes tbh. If your ordering from mtn elec, just let Richard know your plans and he will advise you which will work best.


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## DrafterDan (Nov 22, 2017)

I've got something in the works. Picked up a blue S2+ host from MtnElec, months ago. Then the LED4Power items showed up. Apparently I discovered an issue with the documentation after speaking with them, so hopefully I'll get this finished up over the weekend.


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## lotec25 (Nov 24, 2017)

lotec25 said:


> So the 20mm star will fit in the M1 or the S2? or do I need to do shaving on the star?
> 
> Thanks again.



Just an update incase someone else goes looking. a 20mm star is required for the S2 and Convoy M1


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## lotec25 (Nov 24, 2017)

DrafterDan said:


> I've got something in the works. Picked up a blue S2+ host from MtnElec, months ago. Then the LED4Power items showed up. Apparently I discovered an issue with the documentation after speaking with them, so hopefully I'll get this finished up over the weekend.



DrafterDan, what size wire are you using here? I am just asking as I was told you need to use 28 to 22AWG. and your wire looks smaller. Just trying to learn here so just a question.

thanks


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## Agpp (Nov 24, 2017)

lotec25 said:


> Just an update incase someone else goes looking. a 20mm start is requred for the S2 S2+ and Convoy M1



I'm pretty sure that S2+ uses 16 mm star.


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## DrafterDan (Nov 27, 2017)

Ordinarily, yes. You'll see the two larger wires, those are 22 gauge that feed the LEDs. 
This is the special LED4Power driver that has temperature sensors and a mosfet on the LED board, to communicate to the driver board. So those skinny wires are about 30 gauge, but just send data, not power to the LEDs themselves. 



lotec25 said:


> DrafterDan, what size wire are you using here? I am just asking as I was told you need to use 28 to 22AWG. and your wire looks smaller. Just trying to learn here so just a question.
> 
> thanks


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## GRAY LITNIN (Nov 27, 2017)

Keep'em coming guys! Discussions on parts compatibility such as above is extremely encouraged!!

lotec 25- All of us are just trying to learn, same as you friend!
You may know the following already (and more lol) but it might help someone in the future.
Im no flashlight guru by any means but i'll share what knowledge i do know being a sparky! 
Wire gauge depends on amps. DrafterDan pointed out that the smaller wires are used for a control circuit, and it wont be using the power but instead just telling it where to go. Like all electrical stuff, heat is #1 problem. More amps = more heat, so if amps are identical then the bigger wire (least resistance) will always run cooler. You can push many more amps through a wire than what it is rated for, copper doesnt melt till something like 1800-2000F, but the insulation will burn long before that. Factors like ambient temperature, duty cycle, stranded or solid core, and composition of the insulation (and conductor as well) will ultimately determine the proper size of wire but for the sake of simplicity stick to what a manufacturer recommends. When in doubt always go bigger. Even if it works fine, too small a wire can work for a while but heat will eventually degrade the insulation and possibly even components that the wire is connected to. If you're wanting to dig deeper look up some NEC charts and insulation types for different applications (there are ALOT)

I tend to over build things, when practical, i use as big of a conductor as i can (stranded if possible when using wire). Although i know its probably immeasurable, the thought of the least resistance and more robust components makes me all warm and fuzzy inside.


DrafterDan
Thanks for sharing!!! Made any progress over the weekend? Pics/build tips?


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## GRAY LITNIN (Dec 3, 2017)

No more modded s2's or am i beating a dead horse?


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## GRAY LITNIN (Dec 16, 2017)




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## staticx57 (Dec 16, 2017)

Here is one for you then: Convoy S2+ Running a cree XP-E 660nm photo red using a linear driver with guppydrv universal (Nanjq 105C) Shown to you on moonlight.


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## GRAY LITNIN (Dec 16, 2017)

Super cool! Thanks static! Did you build it for fun or is there a practical purpose involved?


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## neutralwhite (Dec 16, 2017)

thats nice man ! RED!,


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## ven (Dec 16, 2017)

Very cool staticx


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## staticx57 (Dec 16, 2017)

GRAY LITNIN said:


> Super cool! Thanks static! Did you build it for fun or is there a practical purpose involved?


Thanks all, it was just for fun. I had a bunch of stock Convoys that I bought while exploring color temps and tint options so after I was bored with them I modded them for the heck of it. I also have a blue host with a royal blue XPE2 and a Green host with a green XPE2. Id need to retrieve them from the office if I wanted to photograph them.


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## staticx57 (Dec 16, 2017)

The Convoy S and C series are EXTREMELY easy to build and I would highly recommend trying to build one yourself. Very rewarding and a great point to enter the modding fold. The skills are very transferable and you can use it to springboard into your modding career. I now no longer care what emitters are in lights as I figure I can just swap them to exactly what I want them to be. Every light is now a host


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## GRAY LITNIN (Dec 16, 2017)

Great fun! Got any plans for future S mods? Maybe a uv one with purple body? Thats my plan when i start tinkering with anodizing but think im gonna try a usb S2+ mod for starters.


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## Cobraman502 (Dec 16, 2017)

Convoy S2+
Nichia 219c 5000k
Potted h17f driver
Added magnet to tail-cap, works out great, very strong. 

1200+ OTF


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## ven (Dec 16, 2017)

Very nice! Love the 219c choice and h17f, certainly one of my fav top drivers.


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## Cobraman502 (Dec 16, 2017)

ven said:


> Very nice! Love the 219c choice and h17f, certainly one of my fav top drivers.



Yep the light puts out quite a bit for its size and is really efficient. I like the driver because I can lock to single mode if I want. My 19 month old daughter plays with this light after it’s locked in moon light. She runs around in the dark, pretty funny. Gotta start em early [emoji38]


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## ven (Dec 17, 2017)

defo, flashlights have to be one of the most useful tools ever, no matter what the age. 

Funny you should say about single mode, thats what i have on mine, the 2nd group is more a traditional low/med/ high . But the single "do it all" level gets used mainly, click once and every time i know what i am getting, no clicking through modes to find the right one. Just one level of usefulness..................just works.


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## GRAY LITNIN (Dec 17, 2017)

Cobraman502 said:


> Convoy S2+
> Nichia 219c 5000k
> Potted h17f driver
> Added magnet to tail-cap, works out great, very strong.
> ...



Wow, just about read my mind as i was thinking about something like this for my 7 yr old. Can't kill it, can't blind himself (with the right settings), then when he shows some brains i can show him what it really does. Imagine the realization when you grab it after he's played with it forever, swap modes and hand it back to him screaming in the darkness lol!!!

On a more serious note, this is great!!! I want to start potting some electronics but i need to solidify my ideas first so i don't make a permanent mistake lol. This driver is what ven recommended to me and it suits tons of different needs, i like that you can make all your lights the same but different as well lol. I love it! Great choice and thanks for sharing!

I ordered my magnets from simon at aliexpress but they haven't come in yet. Is this the same one?


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## Cobraman502 (Dec 17, 2017)

GRAY LITNIN said:


> Wow, just about read my mind as i was thinking about something like this for my 7 yr old. Can't kill it, can't blind himself (with the right settings), then when he shows some brains i can show him what it really does. Imagine the realization when you grab it after he's played with it forever, swap modes and hand it back to him screaming in the darkness lol!!!
> 
> On a more serious note, this is great!!! I want to start potting some electronics but i need to solidify my ideas first so i don't make a permanent mistake lol. This driver is what ven recommended to me and it suits tons of different needs, i like that you can make all your lights the same but different as well lol. I love it! Great choice and thanks for sharing!
> 
> I ordered my magnets from simon at aliexpress but they haven't come in yet. Is this the same one?



Yes the magnets are the same. Little hint I didn’t glue mine in. I used a piece of printer paper on one side as a shim and pressed it on a hard surface. This way if I needed to replace the magnet I can. It has not moved or loosened one bit and has been my edc for 6 months with the magnet. I have the 18650 and 18350 tubes and both work with this magnet, it’s pretty strong. It comes in handy so often.


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## GRAY LITNIN (Dec 18, 2017)

Good, i was hoping the magnet was stout!!! Good idea on shimming it in tight instead of gluing!! It's a feature heavily missed when i use a light without one!!


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## DrafterDan (Dec 19, 2017)

except when you are wearing a mechanical watch...


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## GRAY LITNIN (Dec 19, 2017)

DrafterDan said:


> except when you are wearing a mechanical watch...



Lol, aint that the truth!! Or a wristband compass!

Would be cool to have an electromagnet on a light. The magnet would only be activated when the light is on. Be tapeworm on runtime though lol!

I've had a few magnet fitted lights be saved from falls though by snagging something on the way down. But they were smaller!


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## GRAY LITNIN (Dec 20, 2017)

Are there any good qaulity GITD o-rings available that are a wee bit thicker than the ones that come with S2+'s?


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## GRAY LITNIN (Dec 25, 2017)

Cobraman502 said:


> Convoy S2+
> Nichia 219c 5000k
> Potted h17f driver
> Added magnet to tail-cap, works out great, very strong.
> ...



What type of contact is that on your tailcap spring?


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## Cobraman502 (Jan 10, 2018)

GRAY LITNIN said:


> What type of contact is that on your tailcap spring?



Sorry for the really delayed reply. The contact is copper to provide a better contact with spring and the bypass. Better than using a blob of solder.


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## neutralwhite (Jan 11, 2018)

did you do the potting yourself ? 
what you use ? 

thanks.


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## Fireclaw18 (Jan 11, 2018)

Here's a mod I did to a Convoy S2+. The host is one of the blue Convoys with the beautiful metal clicky switch. I've had this laying around for awhile, but finally decided to do something with it.




*I performed the following mods to this light:*


Installed DrJones H17F driver and triple XPL HI 5A2 on copper Noctigon 
Carclo 10507 Optic 
Significantly reduced overall length of the light. 
_
NOTE: the bit of bare aluminum at the top of the tailcap where it meets the body tube is not present in the final version. Initially, I thought to shorten the light by reducing the tailcap length. I started to do this by filing down the bottom of the tailcap. Later I decided that didn't look good and wasn't necessary. I ended up replacing the tailcap with an identical one, but without any filing on it._


*Overview and pictures*:

*Step 1: Shorten the pill*. I used the same technique I used in a previous mod. Here are some pictures (taken from an earlier S2+ mod using the same technique):












Shortening the pill requires the following steps:


*Grind off the back of the pill*. I used a grinding bit and a hand drill, then filed it flat. If you're patient you can accomplish this step using just a handfile. 
*Use a handfile to remove the forward section of threads near where the emitter sits*. The S2+'s head isn't fully threaded so this is necessary to allow the pill to seat further forward. You can see on the picture above how the sides of the pill below the emitters are smooth. This is because I ground off the threads. 
*Grind out new ledge for the driver in the sides of the back pill*. To do this I placed the pill upside down in a vise. Then I bent a small piece of aluminum into a "U" shape with a flat bottom. and placed it upside down in side the pill. I cut away the legs of the "U" till it sat just a few mm inside the pill. Then I used a cylindrical grinding bit in a hand drill with no grinding edge on the bottom to grind the edge of the pill. The "U" acted as a stand to prevent the grinding bit from slipping further in. 
 
*Step 2: Install the driver and emitters*. I chose a DrJones H17F for this build and triple XPL-HI 5A2 on copper Noctigon. Due to the nice brass pill, it was possible to solder the driver in for an excellent ground connection.

*Step 3: Shorten the head*. With a dramatically shorter pill, the light was usable as-is with the 18350 tube, but with an 18500 inside. However, I've already done that before and wanted to make this an 18650 light. With the much reduced pill, the battery compartment is much too large for an 18650 cell. I considered sawing the battery tube in half and using the "human lathe" method to shorten the battery tube. But then I realized there was a much easier way to shorten this light:



I took a hacksaw and sawed a large chunk of the back of the head off. Since the pill threads and the battery tube threads are the same, this worked well. I then filed it flat. 
The threads on the battery tube were hitting the back of the pill so I used a handfile to remove approximate 2 mm of threads. There's still more than enough threads left for a strong fit. 
I used the same technique described in Step 1 for grinding out a driver ledge in the back of the driver to grind out the bottom couple mm of threads in the head. This allows the head to fully seat and still be o-ring sealed. this operation was the hardest part of the mod. I messed up the first time and had to take a little more off than I anticipated when the grinding bit slipped. Fortunately, for anyone else trying it, this step is also purely optional. It's only needed if you want a waterproof light and don't want to glue the head to the body tube. 
 
*NOTE*: the stand that I made to hold the grinding bit at the right height for this operation was a bit more complex than the "U" described previously. For this operation I cut 2 disks of sheet copper sized to the inside of the light. Then made a rectangle from a strip of copper and placed it upright between the 2 copper disks. I soldered all 3 pieces of copper together to make a secure stand that would sit inside the head while I used the drill bit. I did the grinding with the pill removed._

*The result*: a much more pocket-friendly 1x18650 Convoy. *Entire light is now just 102mm long, compared to 118mm for the stock light*. A full 16mm was removed. It is now definitely one of the shortest 1x18650 tube lights with a clicky tailcap switch! Here are some more pictures:








I am quite pleased with the performance of this light and really like how it came out. I limited the turbo output to 3 amps as I found that on FET modes the head got far too hot given the tiny head and lack of heatsink fins. Since the heatsinking isn't good enough to hotrod for max output, I'll probably skip adding a wire bypass to the tailcap spring.

Overall, this mod wasn't really all that hard to do. I give it an intermediate level of difficulty. Well worth a try for anyone with basic modding experience who wants an extremely short tailcap clicky tube light.

*The new short head also works with the 18350 tube with an 18350 cell inside. *

However, note the gap between the head and the tube. This is because I didn’t file off the threads on the 18350 tube as much as I did on the threads on the 18650 tube. This gap wouldn’t have been there if I hadn’t accidentally slipped with the grinding bit and ended up having to shorten the head a little more than I first intended. Also, in retrospect I don’t think I should have tried to shorten the tailcap at all. If I were doing this mod again I’d fix those problems so there were no visible gaps. 
As-is, I might be able to fix the gaps on the current sample, but to do so I’d need to open up a little more room inside the battery tube. I should be able to get 2mm from filing down the top of the switch retaining ring and contact post on the bottom of the driver. But to get more than that I’d have to grind the pill flatter.


Here are some pics of the light with 18350 tube (it is fully functional with either length tube):












*Alternate shortened Convoy S2+ host in polished bare aluminum.* I soaked an S2+ in Greased Lightning to remove the anodizing. Then to remove the final bit of green anodizing I soaked it in Clorox bleach for 6 hours. The bleach also turned the aluminum a dull dark grey. I sanded and polished off the grey from the raised portions of the light, but left it in the cracks as much as possible as it provides a nice contrast. I used a separate host from the blue, so have both hosts.


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## ven (Jan 12, 2018)

Excellent mods fireclaw, great idea with the shortening. The s2+ when came out(guess compared to some still now) was compact for 18650. Being more use to the little Zebra's these days, the s2+ does feel quite large. Like it! and the stripped looks very


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## Cobraman502 (Jan 12, 2018)

neutralwhite said:


> did you do the potting yourself ?
> what you use ?
> 
> thanks.



Purchased from PflexPro


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## lighttrufffle (Jan 18, 2018)

I just recently built a convoy s2+ triple with xpl-hi and crescendo on a fet driver from mtnelectronics. I really like it but it was mostly practice as Im wanting to start building my own flashlights and try selling them. a friend has a cnc mill and a lathe and I have been the "flashlight guy" in my friend group. anyway, any directions/ideas/tips for someone wanting to start a side business making these cool things that put out soo much light? couple things im running into at the moment is finding materials at a price that allows me to be competitive in the custom market (copper, brass, titanium, timascus) and trying to find some failed design flaws to avoid in my quest to bring somthing new and cool to the table. thanks all.


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## GRAY LITNIN (Jan 19, 2018)

Awesome Mods Peeps!!!! Thank you for the replies (no worries how long it takes, we all got busy lives) and the detailed modding explanations and pics!!! This is exactly what i hoped for when i started this thread! Hope it turns into a great database to check out for newbs and experienced modders alike!! Keep up the great work!!!


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## lancehill (Jan 24, 2018)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*



ven said:


> Many options, of course LED choices..........you can even go xhp50/70 if you want and feed it 2x 18350 cells for 8.4v. Triples, again with various LED choices(xpl HI work nicely, pick your flavour! 4000k is on the warm side and very nice, 5000k a nice happy medium. Some hi cri goodness, maybe a nichia 219b 4000k or 219c 4000k make a nice compact triple.
> 
> By the time you have bought a decent driver, 3 LED's,optics, spacer ...........and s2 host. If high output and compact is the game, the Emisar D4 may make an easier choice for $40 ish.
> 
> ...



Are those black clips on the Red and Blue convoys or just the way the light is hitting them? I've only been able to find the deep carry clip in black.


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## Rifter (Jan 28, 2018)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*

Decided to get into the flashlight modding game with some S2+ as they seemed like good quality but yet still cheap hosts. I hadn't built a flashlight yet and wanted to start with a well known host. Ill post all the pics at the end. All parts were ordered from MTN Electronics, Batteries from illumn.com.

Spent 3-4 hours yesterday working on these, some minor issues came up while building but nothing i couldn't solve pretty quick. Having an adjustable benchtop PSU did come in handy for troubleshooting a few times.

Clear light is a Tri Nichia 219C 4000k 90+ CRI powered from a Dr Jones H17F driver. Medium spot frosted carclo optic. This thing is insane, literal wall of light on turbo. Can only run Turbo for 30-60 seconds before light gets to hot to hold, even the max on regulation of this driver of 3A is to much for this host long term, only making it 2-3 min before getting to hot. Running it at 1.5-1.7A is sustainable as long as your battery will last. Good thing driver is fully thermo controlled and automatically lowers output to maintain temps. It gets hot fast because i didnt use the retainer ring for the pill instead for best heat transfer i soldered the whole driver to the pill, 100% circumference of driver soldered to the pill. This was by far the hardest part to solder out of the build for these 5 lights, not overheating the driver while trying to heat that huge pill enough to flow solder was very challenging. Having great flux helped alot to flow that solder. Also used thermal compound on the pill threads, so it transfers heat to the host really quick. I use a high drain Sony VTC6 cell for this light to get the most out of turbo mode. Edit: ordered a bypassed tail spring/switch for this light, knowing it was going to pull high current and not knowing exactly how to make one as my background is more lasers which do not use as high current as flashlights. Looks easy enough I will do my own spring bypasses in the future and I did a bypass on the driver spring as well to see if I could and so far so good. 

Red light is a Red Cree XP-E2 in a red S2+ host with a buck driver running at 1.5A 100% mode only driver, I stuck to this current for all color builds because even though some of the color LED's can take more i wanted them to be simple 100% mode lights that didnt overheat. I had to modify the tailcap spring to a shorter spring top fit a protected cell, as the buck driver has no LVP, i also used a shorter spring on the driver than the rest of the colored lights. Running a 3500mah keeppower 18650 protected cell in this one.

Blue light is a Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 in a Blue S2+ host running from a 1.4A linear 7135 based driver. Its got guppydrv firmware on it. Not much to say about this one love the blue color from the royal blue LED, was a easy build and running unprotected cells means no spring mods needed for this light. This driver has LVP.

Green light is a Green Cree XP-E2 in a Green S2+ host running from a 1.4A linear 7135 based driver. Its got guppydrv firmware on it. Not much to say about this either like the shade of green, similar to the old luxon star green. Again was a easy build and running unprotected cells means no spring mods needed for this light. 

Amber light is a PC Amber Cree XP-E2 in a Tan S2+ host running from a 1.4A linear 7135 based driver. Its got guppydrv firmware on it. Chose this over the regular amber because i liked the color better, i have a Amber LED on hand to compare to but like the PC amber better. This also allowed me to use the same driver as the green and blue builds instead of a buck like the red, as PC amber is 3v not 2v like Amber/Red LED. So yay no spring mods needed for this one either i just run unprotected cells.

All the colored lights are using a 45 degree TIR optic.


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## Cobraman502 (Jan 29, 2018)

Randy over at PflexPro is selling Convoy S2+ lighted tail switches. They are really nice because they are not as bright as the Astrolux version. Great for bed side edc.

Astrolux is left and the PflexPro on right.


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## ven (Jan 30, 2018)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*



lancehill said:


> Are those black clips on the Red and Blue convoys or just the way the light is hitting them? I've only been able to find the deep carry clip in black.




Sorry for late reply, they are heat treated(gas hob) to darken and give a bit of blue tint to them.


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## hankthetank75 (Feb 26, 2018)

Does anyone know if there is a black bolt on clip that will fit the s2+?


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## HaileStorm (Feb 27, 2018)

Hi guys! I have the Convoy S2+ Desert Tan in the mail. Been searching about it and found that some have said that all Desert Tan versions have the Biscotti firmware. 

Is this true? I ordered one with the 7135*8 driver XP-L HI U4-7A. Kindly educate me as I'm new to Convoy lights. Your help would be appreciated!


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## Agpp (Feb 28, 2018)

AFAIK the ones from Gearbest come with the old 2-group firmware.


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## terryoregon (Feb 28, 2018)

.
Keepin' it simple and easy. Installed the 60deg diffuser that Simon sells on Aliexpress HERE:

BTW, they do fit, but not easily. If you try pushing them in, it may not work. I had to allow the plastic housing on the optic to catch on the inner threads of the S2+, then slowly screw it down. 
.


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## HaileStorm (Feb 28, 2018)

Agpp said:


> AFAIK the ones from Gearbest come with the old 2-group firmware.


Oh well... I guess you can have everything. I really wanted the moonlight mode but I guess I'll just have to use my other lights for that. 

On the other hand, I cant wait to compare the tint to my warm white copper Tool. Should be interesting.


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## HaileStorm (Feb 28, 2018)

terryoregon said:


> .
> Keepin' it simple and easy. Installed the 60deg diffuser that Simon sells on Aliexpress HERE:
> .


Those look great! How's the beam pattern on them? Do you have the smooth reflector or op?


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## jerrybryant86 (Feb 28, 2018)

There is no reflector. That’s just an optic.


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## terryoregon (Mar 1, 2018)

HaileStorm said:


> Those look great! How's the beam pattern on them? Do you have the smooth reflector or op?



The beam pattern is almost pure flood. Both lights previously had the orange peel reflectors - but those get removed for the new optic.


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## HaileStorm (Mar 1, 2018)

terryoregon said:


> The beam pattern is almost pure flood and both lights already had the orange peel reflectors.


Nice! So they're only available throigh aliexpress?

Does anyone have the XP-L U4-7A version? Im afraid what I ordered might have a light that's too yellowish...


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## terryoregon (Mar 1, 2018)

> Nice! So they're only available through aliexpress?



Not actually sure about that, but I would want to make sure I'm getting Simon's stock (confirmed to work/fit).


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## HaileStorm (Mar 1, 2018)

terryoregon said:


> Not actually sure about that, but I would want to make sure I'm getting Simon's stock (confirmed to work/fit).


I see, okay thanks!


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## HaileStorm (Mar 12, 2018)

I just received my s2+ today. Sadly, it's the 5/3 mode version. 

I was wondering if the switch is really easy to tap to change modes or is mine defective?


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## DavidRZ (Mar 14, 2018)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*



ven said:


> Top right



What are the two lights on the front left in this picture?


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## Nichia! (Mar 14, 2018)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*



DavidRZ said:


> What are the two lights on the front left in this picture?



They are novatac


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## ven (Mar 14, 2018)

*Re: CONVOY S2/S2+ MODS!!!*

Yes novatacs, ano stripped is 219b 4k and gold 219c 5k


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## Cobraman502 (Jul 18, 2018)

Just added some rubbery grip tap to my ConvoyS2+. Changed the entire feel of the light.


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## Gravedigger (Jul 26, 2018)

Following just order my first s2+ host


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## this_is_nascar (Jul 8, 2020)

Bumping an old one. Anyone here still use this light?


Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


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## jrgold (Jul 8, 2020)

this_is_nascar said:


> Bumping an old one. Anyone here still use this light?
> 
> 
> Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk



yep, s2+ copper 





and lego box






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pilo7448 (Jul 9, 2020)

S2 copper and brass (ignore the fw's)





Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


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## Jean-Luc Descarte (Jul 30, 2020)

this_is_nascar said:


> Bumping an old one. Anyone here still use this light?



You bet!  I have a grey S2+ (219c 4000k, 4x7135, Biscotti, SMO reflector) that I use all the time. The beam is the definition of multipurpose (very wide spill, tight but not throwy hotspot) and it's my only Convoy with an arguably moonlight level at 0.1% output.

It only doesn't get quite as much love or use as an old S2 because the latter has sentimental value.


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## this_is_nascar (Jul 31, 2020)

I have several here and I think one of them is this exact same configuration. I really like my SST-20 ones. My SST-40 are nice, but greenish on the dimmer outputs.

My most recent is one modded with an Osram. It's a true thrower.


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## Cemoi (Sep 21, 2020)

Hi all,
Although a long-time flashaholic (with a special interest in tiny AAA or 10180 lights), I am now willing to bite the 18650 bullet.
The Convoy S2+ might be my first choice, seeing how much it is praised on CPF and BLF, and how customizable it seems to be.
As far as I can tell from the Chinese sellers websites, there seem to be two different UI available:

4 mode (0.1% -3% -30% -100%), no Strobe, memory. These brightness levels are perfect for me, but I don't like mode memory based on the last mode used, I'd rather have it come on Low, or on a chosen (and fixed) mode. No way to turn off memory in this UI as far as I understand, correct? And no way to have Strobe?
Biscotti : memory can be turned off, but none of the 12 modes suit my needs: either there are two many levels (the above four-mode above is not available), or I miss the Strobe.
I am correct?
Any way to have quick access to #1 Moonlight or Low, #2 a memorized Medium, #3 Turbo, #4 Strobe?
Thanks in advance.


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## Cemoi (Sep 21, 2020)

Cemoi said:


> Any way to have quick access to #1 Moonlight or Low, #2 a memorized Medium, #3 Turbo, #4 Strobe?


I've just realized that the Anduril UI allows this (Manual memory).
So now the question is, where to buy an Anduril version of the Convoy S2+?
The ones I see at BG or Aliex are all either 4 modes or Biscotti.


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## chillinn (Sep 21, 2020)

I am speculating an S2+... can't beat the price for that driver. What is holding me up is not quite understanding the beam pattern. I haven't seen any shots but from Convoy.

May I please request from you kind gentlemen here a few beam shots from any with an S2+ with a single emitter with reflector? Or even links to the same will do. Gracias por adelantado.


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## this_is_nascar (Sep 22, 2020)

Search for Biscotti firmware. That pic will show you the 12-modes that are available. My biggest complaint about this firmware is there is no direct way to any level you want. You have to click thru to get to a level.

You can set it up to always start on high, but then have to click thru to get dimmer. The opposite us true as well, meaning you can start on low and click thru to high.


Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


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## lion504 (Sep 26, 2020)

chillinn said:


> May I please request from you kind gentlemen here a few beam shots from any with an S2+ with a single emitter with reflector? Or even links to the same will do. Gracias por adelantado.



Second from left, Convoy S2+ with a single XP-L HI at 5200K. Reflector is a PFlexPro hybrid smooth/OP. A very clean beam, but she's not High CRI, and shows her greenness alongside her Nichia cousins.


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## lion504 (Sep 26, 2020)

A modded S2+ illuminated tailswitch. By PFlexPro.


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## id30209 (Sep 26, 2020)

S21A (it has 2 in it’s name) MtN Boost driver, XHP50.2 90CRI 5000K (shaved) and blue lighted tail.
Sorry for dust, house project ongoing...










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## lion504 (Sep 26, 2020)

Sweet S21A. Love that tail switch.


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## id30209 (Sep 26, 2020)

lion504 said:


> Sweet S21A. Love that tail switch.



Me too. I was surprised when i found that regular S2 lighted switch fits perfect in this fatty.


Sent from Tapatalk


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## lion504 (Sep 26, 2020)

Can you share where you purchased the blue one? Mine is more like a blurple color. Neals Gadgets sells the blurple one and an orange, which I'm considering upgrading to.


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## id30209 (Sep 27, 2020)

lion504 said:


> Can you share where you purchased the blue one? Mine is more like a blurple color. Neals Gadgets sells the blurple one and an orange, which I'm considering upgrading to.



Directly from Convoy maker:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMBlNcn
You can choose between blue and orange...


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## lion504 (Sep 27, 2020)

Thank you.


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