# Pentagonlight MOLLE Light Impressions



## PJD (Mar 22, 2007)

I don't own a digicam, so I can't post pics...but you can see a lot of pics by linking to CountyComm through this thread:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/156489

I'll start by saying that for what it is/was intended to be, this is a very nice little light for the price. The output won't fry your retinas; but then again, it's a "utility light" that's not really supposed to be a retina-scorcher!

The emitter appears to be a Nichia Rigel (the same type of LED used in the Fenix E1). However, I've had three Fenix E1's, and the emitter in the MOLLE Light is FAR whiter than any of the E1's I've had; there's a LOT less blue in the beam of the MOLLE Light. Also, the MOLLE Light has an LOP reflector, which does a FANTASTIC job of getting rid of the artifacts normally associated with the Nichia Rigel. 

The switch is a "true" clicky: slight press for momentary on, full click for constant on. This was a pleasant suprise to me...I personally am not too fond of reverse clicky switches. The body of the light is made of aluminum and plastic: the body tube is aluminum, and the head and tail assembly are plastic. The up-side to the top and bottom being plastic is that it appears to be a very durable polycarbonate-resin type of plastic that seems to be extremely robust. I have no worries that it will be extremely durable. There were some concerns expressed in another thread that the plastic threads of the tail cap coupling with the aluminum threads of the body could lead to cross-threading. Under normal use I don't see this as being a problem. The threads on the tail cap are not "fine" threads; they're actually sort of wide for the size of the tail cap, and as long as "normal" care is taken when putting the tail cap on, the threads should not cross or "wear out". The rotating pocket clip seems to be very sturdy, and should have NO problem keeping the light securely fastened to whatever you attach it to.

As far as the output is concerned, it's not too shabby! I don't own a lux-meter, but I'd hafta say that it's NOT putting out the 30 lumens that's stated on the accompanying pamphlet. Then again, I've NEVER heard of a Nichia Rigel being able to pump out 30 lumens (...unless it's badly over-driven). The closest light I have to compare it's output to is my AmiLite T5 on the low setting (I have the T5 with the 15 lumen low setting). The hotspot of the MOLLE Light is just a HAIR dimmer than the T5 on low; however, the T5 has a considerably larger reflector, so it's going to put more light in the hotspot. On the other hand, the spill light of the MOLLE Light is NOTICEABLY brighter than the spill light of the T5 on low. Using that as a "measuring stick", I'd hafta guess that the MOLLE Light is probably putting out about 20 lumens, if the 15 lumen spec of my T5 on low is accurate. IMHO, I think the spill light of the MOLLE Light is it's strong point! The hotspot is VERY nice for a Rigel, but the spill light is very white, wide, and EXTREMELY useable!

IMHO, the MOLLE Light is exactly what it was touted to be: a very tough, durable, small utility light that's easily bright enough for most tasks that you'd need a utility light for. The output is smooth AND very nicely tinted, and all-in-all, I think Pentagonlight did a FINE job on this one.

Aside from my above comments I'd just like to add that I think the MOLLE Light is just plain COOL! It's (...to my knowledge) the first single AA size light to use the military "crook neck" body, which I think is long overdue. Pentagonlight could have chosen to put a Cree or SSC or some other "brighter" emitter in the MOLLE Light, but IMHO, I think this would have defeated the intended purpose. It's a utility/task light, and if you keep that in mind when you get one, you WON'T be disappointed! YMMV...

PJD

Incidentally, for the modders, the head of the MOLLE Light does NOT appear to be removeable. An emitter swap could prove to be quite a task, but we'll see...I'm sure!


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## lukus (Mar 22, 2007)

I've had mine for a week now and I agree with you. It's a neat little light with a very bright, useful side spill. I like the clip. It's kind of unconventional looking but it holds very securely. It snugs into PALS webbing with no worries about losing it.

I spent some time this evening with my dremel and a small burring bit to put in a tritium marker. There is a raised ridge of plastic in a pentagon shape around the switch. On the flat towards the front of the light I carefully burred out a channel just large enough to drop in the trit and make it flush to the top. A bit of UV curing optical adhesive and its finished. It's bright enough to see from the other side of the room (in the dark, of course). Just one of those little touches that make something yours.


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## stoven (Mar 22, 2007)

PJD,

Thanks for the review. I'm still waiting to receive the ones I ordered. The Rigel only outputs around 20 lumens and can not reach 30 lumens unless you really over drive the emitter. Pentagon lights claims it outputs 40 lumens on their website.

Since they are claiming 40 lumens I have a feeling they are in the process of modifying the Molle light to use the new 52 lumen Rigel emitter or possibly retrofitting the new Lumileds Rebel.


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## luigi (Mar 22, 2007)

It is indeed a nice product, smaller than what you think it is, more solid than what you think it is an quite cute.
I liked the compass at the tail and the red filter that just unscrews from the tail and screws to the bezel. Very simple to use.

Luigi


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## ringzero (Mar 22, 2007)

PJD said:


> IMHO, the MOLLE Light is exactly what it was touted to be: a very tough, durable, small utility light that's easily bright enough for most tasks that you'd need a utility light for. The output is smooth AND very nicely tinted, and all-in-all, I think Pentagonlight did a FINE job on this one.



Thanks for an excellent review PJD!

After reading it, I'm totally convinced that I need a few MOLLE Lights.

I think that 20 lumens is close to ideal for a small utility light. 20 lumens is enough for most any close to medium range task, and is bright enough to walk a rugged trail or even to bushwack if necessary. Any brighter than 20 lumens and the light becomes problematic for close up tasks.

I have a Streamlight TaskLight 2AA that uses the Nichia Rigel LED to output a very nice white beam. The SL TL 2AA Rigel LED must output about 25 lumens on high, because it squirts 20 lumens out the front end (as measured by Flashlight Reviews.) The Rigel LED is more efficient than a Luxeon, resulting in better runtimes.

The one big improvement I could see for the MOLLE Light would be to add a low level of about 4 lumens for close up use and extended runtime. I really appreciate the low level on my SL TL 2AA for close up tasks and for the 50+ hour runtime. But, as it is, the MOLLE Light looks to be about the most useful 1AA light available.

Anybody know of another source for these besides CountyComm? I'd just as soon get the black version without the tailcap compass and pouch.


.


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## PJD (Mar 22, 2007)

ringzero...I don't know if they're on Pentagonlight's web-site yet, but if not, I'm sure they will be soon. I've dealt with Pentagonlight directly on a couple occassions, and their customer service and delivery time is top-notch!

www.pentagonlight.com

I just checked, and it is in fact on their site now! Hope that helped...

PJD


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## ringzero (Mar 23, 2007)

PJD said:


> I've dealt with Pentagonlight directly on a couple occassions, and their customer service and delivery time is top-notch!...I just checked, and it is in fact on their site now! Hope that helped...



Hey PJD, thanks a lot! Wasn't aware that Pentagonlight sold direct to the public.

.


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## r0b0r (Mar 23, 2007)

I like the idea of those things, when I have the cash maybe 

Clipped onto a belt it'd be a great walking light


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## Sharpdogs (Mar 23, 2007)

I was a little hesitant to buy one of these. I thought they were just gimmicky. But, thanks to all the reviews, I will be ordering one or two. Looks like the perfect little light for walking to dogs at night.


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## lukus (Mar 23, 2007)

ringzero said:


> Anybody know of another source for these besides CountyComm? I'd just as soon get the black version without the tailcap compass and pouch.
> .



Hey ring, if you can't find a better price and you order from CountyComm, send me the pouch. I'll send you a blue tritium vial (.84mm X 3.80mm I think) in exchange for it. I'm wanting another pouch. Open to anybody I guess. See my above post.


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## ufokillerz (Mar 26, 2007)

tried to open the damn light up, but i dont think its ever going to budge, the electronics inside seem very easily serviceable, so if someone figures out how to pop it open, please do make a post.


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## blahblahblah (Mar 26, 2007)

ringzero said:


> Anybody know of another source for these besides CountyComm? I'd just as soon get the black version without the tailcap compass and pouch.
> 
> 
> .


 
http://www.bigskyguns.com/Handheld_Xenon_Lights-Pentagon_Molle_Light.html
$25.60 and free shipping


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## jlomein (Mar 26, 2007)

blahblahblah said:


> http://www.bigskyguns.com/Handheld_Xenon_Lights-Pentagon_Molle_Light.html
> $25.60 and free shipping



Just FYI...USA only, and must be a minimum order of $99.

If I find a good deal on one shipped to Canada I may have to get one as a backup light clipped to my day bag.


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## Sigman (Mar 27, 2007)

Group buy discount?


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## HCaul (Mar 27, 2007)

By the way, one thing I've not seen mentioned about the MOLLE light (which I do mostly like very much - I'm a sucker for the angle-head design) is that the compass is essentially useless for most practical purpses because of the way its permanently mounted in the tailcap. First (and maybe least importantly), you can't shine the light on it. (So if you get lost in the dark and that's your only light, forget about using it).

But more importantly, the tailcap is too close to the battery. Almost all AA cells I tested (Alkaline and Li) have enough of a magnetic field to screw with the compass. It's fine if you unscrew the tailcap, but then you've got the main body of the light, the tailcap, and the battery all separated.

So I'd much prefer a version of the light that's either cheaper and without a compass, or with a removable compass that works reliably.

H. Caul


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## Flash_Gordon (Mar 27, 2007)

The compass actually points at the pocket clip. The only way it can be used is to remove the tailcap.

As mentioned, you now have three pieces with possible dirt or water contamination or dropping parts in a very inconvenient situation.

Mark


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## luigi (Mar 27, 2007)

Just point the pocket clip to the North, very simple!



Flash_Gordon said:


> The compass actually points at the pocket clip. The only way it can be used is to remove the tailcap.
> 
> As mentioned, you now have three pieces with possible dirt or water contamination or dropping parts in a very inconvenient situation.
> 
> Mark


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## HCaul (Mar 27, 2007)

Yes, the clip is another potential source of trouble. Actually, of the three MOLLEs I have, only one of the pocket clips is sufficiently magentized to cause interference, but ALL of the AA cells in my stash (or at least all the few dozen I tested) act as fairly strong magents and reliably screw with the compass.

Oh well, nice idea, poor execution.


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## ringzero (Mar 27, 2007)

blahblahblah said:


> http://www.bigskyguns.com/Handheld_Xenon_Lights-Pentagon_Molle_Light.html
> $25.60 and free shipping



Thanks blahblahblah.

I'd never heard of BigSkyGuns, but they're bookmarked now.

.


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## ringzero (Mar 27, 2007)

Flash_Gordon said:


> The compass actually points at the pocket clip. The only way it can be used is to remove the tailcap...As mentioned, you now have three pieces with possible dirt or water contamination or dropping parts in a very inconvenient situation...Mark



+1

1. Useless, unless the light is taken completely apart.

2. Gimmicky - mars the elegant simplicity of a serious little utility light. Reminds me of a prize that might be found in the bottom of a box of breakfast cereal.

.


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## lukus (Mar 27, 2007)

You can pop the clip off relatively easy. If I had to use the compass I would probably do that before I'd take the cap off. Mostly, I would prefer to not have the compass or the red filter and a cap that was 1/2" shorter. So who's going to make a few?


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## HCaul (Mar 27, 2007)

lukus said:


> You can pop the clip off relatively easy.



Yes, you can, but as I pointed out above, that's not the only (or even the main) problem. Many (maybe most) AA cells are sufficiently magentic that they mess with the compass whether the clip is on or not.


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## ringzero (Mar 27, 2007)

lukus said:


> You can pop the clip off relatively easy. If I had to use the compass I would probably do that before I'd take the cap off. Mostly, I would prefer to not have the compass or the red filter and a cap that was 1/2" shorter. So who's going to make a few?



Half an inch shorter sounds good. However, that red filter sounds good too.

For a light without a low level, that red filter could come in real handy to avoid ruining your eye's dark adaptation.

Red is especially good for wilderness use.


.


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## Mr. Blue (Mar 29, 2007)

is it regulated?


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## PJD (Mar 29, 2007)

Mr. Blue said:


> is it regulated?



I haven't seen any run-time graphs to see "how" regulated it is, but according to Pentagonlight it's supposed to be. I'm waiting for one of our "Master Reviewers" to get their hands on one (...Chev, Doug, Erns, Craig; you listening!?)

PJD


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## thermal guy (Mar 30, 2007)

just ordered one myself. anyone know if you can run aa lithium in them for better runtime?


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## Flash_Gordon (Mar 30, 2007)

thermal guy said:


> just ordered one myself. anyone know if you can run aa lithium in them for better runtime?


I emailed Pentagon on that question. Their response was that it had not been tested with lithiums and that they hoped to do this soon.

A guess is that it will be OK. I'll probably try mine when I get some more AA lithiums.

Mark


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## PJD (Mar 31, 2007)

thermal guy said:


> just ordered one myself. anyone know if you can run aa lithium in them for better runtime?



I've been running mine on nothing BUT lithium AA's since getting it, and it's been doing fine on them.

PJD


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## JNewell (Apr 7, 2007)

Mine's doing a funny thing where it turns back on in a "low" mode after it's been clicked off. Anyone else seeing anything like that?


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## gorn (Apr 7, 2007)

JNewell said:


> Mine's doing a funny thing where it turns back on in a "low" mode after it's been clicked off. Anyone else seeing anything like that?



I had that problem with the first one I bought. I called pentagonlights and they were unaware of why it would do that. I returned the light to them and after a couple of days they said they didn't know why it was doing it and sent me a new light. Although the new light was tan it came with a blue filter. 

I have been trying to get the red filter back because that one is going to my Son in Iraq and red would be better for him. Pentagonlight hasn't responded to my request email.


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## Flash_Gordon (Apr 7, 2007)

I just received a new light from Pentagon. My original one had the same problem. It usually remained on with a very dim glow of the LED after it had been switched off. Also, it could just be sitting on the table and would come on at about half output, sometimes with flashing.

Pentagon gave me no indication that they had heard of this problem before when I called them, although it is at least somewhat common. Not a real handy feature for a light intended to be hung on a soldier's vest which might be used at night in a real tactical situation. Very dangerous and potentially deadly.

The turnaround was very fast and as a small bonus my replacement light came in full retail package as opposed to the celo bag from County Comm.

Mark


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## Nebula (Apr 8, 2007)

I just got mine today. I like the light, but find that the clicky is a little finnicky. Other than that one issue this is a really nice little light. KK


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## 6010 nsk (Apr 8, 2007)

I bought 2 tan lights from county comm, one did the low level thing and this is the reply I got from Pentagonlight.

If you could please try turning the light on, then while it's on taking out the battery. Let the light sit over night, then try it again. All our lights are tested before sent out. Each light has a reservoir (capacitor?) that may still have some juice left in it. By turning it on and taking out the battery to set over night will drain all the juice out. Please try this and if the same problem occurs please contact me at the below number so I can get a RMA issued.

So for I like mine , already modded it on the exterior. hacked off the lanyard loop that was "pointy" and shaped/smoothed the back of the head and ground the "ears" off of the clip. Much better.


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## 6010 nsk (Apr 8, 2007)

*Disassembly !*

Update : 

I dissasembled one of mine ! Pics !

















The head is blue loc-tited to the alum body. The circuit board is held to the head by 2 small phillips screws. The emitter is plugged , yes plugged in the main board. I did not remove the the reflector or led due to the fact I wasnt sure how they come out of the head and I want to be able to put it back together and use it.


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## ringzero (Apr 8, 2007)

*Re: Disassembly !*



6010 nsk said:


> I dissasembled one of mine ! Pics !
> The head is blue loc-tited to the alum body. The circuit board is held to the head by 2 small phillips screws. The emitter is plugged , yes plugged in the main board. I did not remove the the reflector or led due to the fact I wasnt sure how they come out of the head and I want to be able to put it back together and use it.



Great job there 6010 nsk!

Wonderful that this light comes apart so completely. Looks like it has mod potential.

Can you find a sense resistor on the circuit board? If so, it may be possible to change it to increase or decrease the output. Also, it might be possible to add a second lower output level to the light by adding a switched resistor in there somewhere.

Wires from the emitter plug into the circuit board with a connector of some sort? Can't really tell from the pics.


.


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## 6010 nsk (Apr 8, 2007)

*Re: Disassembly !*



ringzero said:


> Great job there 6010 nsk!
> 
> Wonderful that this light comes apart so completely. Looks like it has mod potential. ((( I Think that the lens / bezel uses the same threads as the filter and could unscrewed if it had some notches for a spanner type wrench.)))
> 
> ...



Keep the Qs coming and Ill do my best to get answers.


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## JNewell (Apr 8, 2007)

So, did that work???





6010 nsk said:


> I bought 2 tan lights from county comm, one did the low level thing and this is the reply I got from Pentagonlight.
> 
> If you could please try turning the light on, then while it's on taking out the battery. Let the light sit over night, then try it again. All our lights are tested before sent out. Each light has a reservoir (capacitor?) that may still have some juice left in it. By turning it on and taking out the battery to set over night will drain all the juice out. Please try this and if the same problem occurs please contact me at the below number so I can get a RMA issued.


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## 6010 nsk (Apr 8, 2007)

Uh , sorta I didnt leave it overnight........ I cannot remember how long it was but it doesnt do it anymore at all. Mine would work properly if I unscrewed the tail cap a tiny bit. It works like it is supposed to now though. I would try it.


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## Flash_Gordon (Apr 8, 2007)

If the problem was a charged cap, wouldn't the same cap charge up again as soon as you install the battery and use the light? I wonder if you have a fix. Mine clearly behaved as some type of electronic malfunction, possibly even a contaminated PCB.

Yes, I was able to kill it by backing the tailcap off a tiny bit, but that also prevented the light from turning on at all.

My replacement works fine and I am enjoying this nice (and different) light.

Did you use any solvent to remove the head or just muscle it open? I twisted my old one very hard and did not get a hint of movement.

Mark


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## 6010 nsk (Apr 8, 2007)

HAHAHA to open it I used a piece of climbing rope , large vise grips , and a 
10 inch adjustable wrench. Rope to protect body , wrench on the head a little pop and it was loose, no damage.

On the malfunction , I didnt do anything to that light other than do what was suggested by the mfg. I also cant seem to reproduce the error.....


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## Flash_Gordon (Apr 8, 2007)

Nice technique! You definitely went heavy duty on it. I always like to see tools that are twenty times the size of the work piece!

I don't think I have a reason (yet) to take my new and working one apart, but it is good to know how. 

Mark


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## JNewell (Apr 8, 2007)

Mark, I was thinking the same thing (cap would recharge), but I gave it a try first thing this morning. Just put the battery back in, turned it on for a while, turned it off for a while - so far so good. Whether it will stay fixed - dunno, I'll report.


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## JNewell (Apr 8, 2007)

:thumbsdow 
OK, forget it - didn't work. Will be calling Pentagonlight tomorrow... pffft.


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## 6010 nsk (Apr 8, 2007)

are you guys thinking the prob is in the tailcap ?


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## lukus (Apr 9, 2007)

They're using cap as in short for capacitor. Admittedly, I don't know much about the electronics in flashlights, but I've never heard of a capacitor in a flashlight. I can't really see a reason for one. Maybe I'm wrong.


Cool deal. I like the way it comes apart. The quick connect for the LED is too cool. I would love to have a switchable resistor for two levels. That would make a good little light great. At first I wasn't too keen on the switch, I've had several weeks to get used to it and now I really like it. Momentary is very easy to do without accidentally switching it on.


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## gorn (Apr 9, 2007)

6010 nsk said:


> are you guys thinking the prob is in the tailcap ?



I don't think it's a tailcap problem, I think there is some problem with the electronics. Maybe a spot of extra solder causing a bridge where one shouldn't be. But having never seen the electronics up close I don't know for sure.


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## JNewell (Apr 9, 2007)

Yes, cap = capacitor. See post 33 in this thread above.


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## 6010 nsk (Apr 9, 2007)

That is my post . The capacitor statement was added by me to the PL email I recd wondering if there is a cap in the light. why would it need a cap anyway ?

Oh yeah, I put my light back together and it still works. 


Hey Gorn , did you get my PM ?


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## byron8 (Apr 9, 2007)

Caps are used in every regulated supplies especially buck regulators. In the picture above, the black rectangle soldered to the board above is the capacitor for the IC which is probably on the other side. Normally placed at the output of the switching supply for filtering. They can be used at the input of the regulator also. It is unlikely you will find a regulated light without at least one capacitor inside. I just noticed the regulator is on the same side as the cap, next to the spring.





6010 nsk said:


> That is my post . The capacitor statement was added by me to the PL email I recd wondering if there is a cap in the light. why would it need a cap anyway ?
> 
> Oh yeah, I put my light back together and it still works.
> 
> ...


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## Pokerstud (Apr 9, 2007)

Well, here is my $.02. I received mine Saturday, but colors. I will admit, they look "cool", the clips were very useful for their intent, but as previously stated, there is no noticable "click" with the switch depression which took some pressure to engage. I was rather disappointed in the output. It was advertised at 30 lumens, the packaging says 40 lumens, but my stock LOP-SE on medium was 50% brighter, and I didn't think the side spill was very noticeable or useful. The filters, red on the tan model and blue on the black model, are very dark, and are only usable in pitch black at very close quarters. Even with this, my photon11 red led is 4-5 times more bright and useful. For a few moments, the tan one demonstrated, what I think is an inherent problem with these lights, in that it wouldn't turn off all the way, still illuminating the emitter at about 1 lumen. I did some deoxit surgery, and after playing with it for 15 minutes, it started working properly. Mine where a pre-order thru Tactical Supply, and did not come with any type of pouch, etc. All in all, I am disappointed in these lights, and the only saving grace was that my two step sons were over visiting Mom, so they each got an early Christmas present, and you would have thought I gave them each a $100 bill. Again, just my $.02.


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## riffraff (Apr 9, 2007)

Pokerstud said:


> [...]The filters, red on the tan model and blue on the black model, are very dark, and are only usable in pitch black at very close quarters.[...]


I was wondering how that was going to play out. White LEDs don't have an overabundance of red light anyway, and the red filter, well, filters out the other colors. I'm a little suprised that the blue filter is dark, though.


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## lukus (Apr 9, 2007)

byron8 said:


> Caps are used in every regulated supplies especially buck regulators.....



So are they used as a surge/spike protector for the circuit board?


Pokerstud, I agree with the filter. I see its use as more of a protective dust cover. Funny about the sidespill, mine has a brighter sidespill than most of my lights. Let's see....small light aimed at the military market, looks military, has a screw on filter AND a compass. Getting pretty close to the Rambo knife and a machine gun for cool factor to the kids. Money well spent just for that.


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## JNewell (Apr 9, 2007)

Just spoke with Pentagonlight customer service. I have to say I don't really find this very satisfactory. The light has to be returned for evaluation and service and/or replacement, which is going to involve a couple of weeks turnaround time...they want my credit card number in case they determine the repair isn't covered by warranty (!!!)...S&H is on my dime. Frankly, for a $30 light, I may throw the thing in the parts/project bin and forget it. 

I would have thought with a wide-spread problem like this they'd be a little more pro-active. :thumbsdow


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## gorn (Apr 9, 2007)

6010 nsk said:


> Hey Gorn , did you get my PM ?



Yes, replied to.


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## benchmade_boy (Apr 10, 2007)

I got my light thanks to Steven at tacticalsupply, I love this thing, i find it super bright for an AA. But I am not a fan of the clickie as it seems very week and hard to tell when it clicks.

Does anyone know how to get "fog" out from under the lense? I took it in the shower with me tonight and now there is fog under the lense and i cant seem to get it out. sp please help.

thanks!


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## gorn (Apr 10, 2007)

JNewell said:


> I would have thought with a wide-spread problem like this they'd be a little more pro-active. :thumbsdow



I was the first one to return a light to these guys because of the power bleed problem. The customer service at that time was fantastic. Turnaround on my light was 4 days. They didn't do any of the credit card nonsense. That is not a good sign when a company gets notified of a bug with their product then as the calls for repair come in they start to hastle the customer.

My thoughts on the darkness of the filters is that it is about perfect for the intended market. It lights up a map or sheet of paper without extra light to give away your position. The soft switch is hard to get used to. I'm not sure if it is a true clicky or if it is one of those soft buttons that bridge contacts.


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## ringzero (Apr 10, 2007)

JNewell said:


> Just spoke with Pentagonlight customer service. I have to say I don't really find this very satisfactory....I would have thought with a wide-spread problem like this they'd be a little more pro-active. :thumbsdow



I've been intending to order a couple of these based on the favorable early reviews. Now, I'll probably wait a little while longer. This is frustrating, since this product has such potential to be a really superb utility-task light.

Frankly, I would have expected better quality control than this from Pentagonlight - given their reputation and the fact these lights are supposedly being sold to the military.

.


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## 6010 nsk (Apr 10, 2007)

I took my light apart and it has small square blue clicky , quite small though.. I forgot to take a pic of the switch when I had it apart you can see the tip of it in the pic in post #34. I have been EDCing my light since I got it and it has had no trouble at all , even after I wrenched it apart to peek at the guts. 

I like it for the fact that you can if need be put your index finger in front of the lense and only let out a small sliver of light with a thumb on the momentary switch. I would get another one in black if I didnt already have 2 tan ones.


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## JNewell (Apr 10, 2007)

> That is not a good sign when a company gets notified of a bug with their product then as the calls for repair come in they start to hastle the customer.



I agree.



> I've been intending to order a couple of these based on the favorable early reviews. Now, I'll probably wait a little while longer. This is frustrating, since this product has such potential to be a really superb utility-task light.



I would hold off until they figure out how to fix this. Unfortunately, it will be hard to figure out when that has happened and new stock is what is shipping.



> Frankly, I would have expected better quality control than this from Pentagonlight - given their reputation and the fact these lights are supposedly being sold to the military.



I agree, given the target market here, this is disgraceful. There is a post from a wildland firefighter in the thread in the Dealer forum - he says he's going to put it on his duty gear. I'd make sure I tested my light up and down before I ran the risk of a dead battery in a light that I needed while fighting a fire.


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## riffraff (Apr 10, 2007)

JNewell said:


> [...]they want my credit card number in case they determine the repair isn't covered by warranty (!!!)[...]


Whaaa?!?!?! I don't _think_ so. That's bogus. :hairpull: 

I was on the edge of buying a few of these, too. I think they just made up my mind for me. Sheesh. :tsk:


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## Flash_Gordon (Apr 10, 2007)

JNewell said:


> Just spoke with Pentagonlight customer service. I have to say I don't really find this very satisfactory. The light has to be returned for evaluation and service and/or replacement, which is going to involve a couple of weeks turnaround time...they want my credit card number in case they determine the repair isn't covered by warranty (!!!)...S&H is on my dime. Frankly, for a $30 light, I may throw the thing in the parts/project bin and forget it.
> 
> I would have thought with a wide-spread problem like this they'd be a little more pro-active. :thumbsdow



Like most if not all companies, they will not ever say that this is a known and common problem. I sent mine in because I liked the form of the light. They sent a new light as a replacement. Very fast turn around. The new one is working correctly.

As for the credit card required for the RMA. Just learn to play their game. I keep an expired closed card for situations like this. They have no reason to charge my card under these circumstances, but should they try they will find a dead end.

Mark


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## byron8 (Apr 13, 2007)

lukus said:


> So are they used as a surge/spike protector for the circuit board?
> 
> 
> Pokerstud, I agree with the filter. I see its use as more of a protective dust cover. Funny about the sidespill, mine has a brighter sidespill than most of my lights. Let's see....small light aimed at the military market, looks military, has a screw on filter AND a compass. Getting pretty close to the Rambo knife and a machine gun for cool factor to the kids. Money well spent just for that.



I just got my Molle today. I haven't noticed any of the problems other's had and took it in shower also and no fog, compass seems accurate but have to float it right. There is a clicking sound for sure and no problem knowing when it is on. The red filter is perfect for reading maps in the dark, I had no problem. The light is certainly bright for AA.

The capacitor used in switching power supplies is used to filter the noise generated by the switching circuit. Switching supplies do not have 100% duty cycle and the power is pulsed at certain frequencies. Noise is generated from this switching circuit. Notice the inductor in the above picture. It's amazing they can put a switching regulator in this small a device.


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## bridgman (May 3, 2007)

I ordered a tan Molle light from Steven at www.tacticalsupply.com and picked it up from the post office today. I really like it. There is no audible click unless you have your ear right against the flashlight body, and even then it's very quiet.

More comments and a bunch of beamshots posted under the Reviews section. Sorry, it never occurred to me to take the new light into the shower but might try tomorrow.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1999044


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## BGater (May 3, 2007)

Ranger Joes has them, also. I think im going to wait a few months and let some of these problems filter out.  


http://www.rangerjoes.com/pentagonlight-flashlight-molle-p-3791.html


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## bridgman (May 3, 2007)

So... in my review I mentioned that the switch seemed to do exactly what I wanted re: momentary vs. constant on, even though I was not aware of pressing harder when I wanted constant on. Tonight I was tinkering with the light and made the mistake of wishing it had a low mode. Like magic, the next time I turned the light off it stayed on in a low mode rather than switching off. 

I'm not going to take any more beamshots, but total light output seems roughly the same as a CPF SafeLight on Low. The failure to switch off completely does not seem to be affected by the use of alkaline or NiMH cells, or at least replacing Eneloop NiMH with Duracell Alkaline didn't seem to make a difference.

Sometimes the low mode goes away after switching on and off a dozen or so times, but it usually returns by itself after a few seconds. Removing the battery for a few minutes does not seem to make a difference, even if the light is switched on when the battery is removed. Removing battery with light on then leaving overnight did not seem to help anyone else, did it ?

Note to self - if you remove battery with light on, the light is STILL on when you put the battery back in. Do not look into light with remaining eye while replacing battery.

*** Sorry, had to step away for a minute. A dog vs. porcupine show was about to take place just outside my front door and I had to break it up. They never go well for dog or for porcupine. ***

Anyways, I left the light "on low" with a fairly fresh Eneloop AA to see what the runtime is like. Will report back in the morning and see what it is doing. If the runtime is long enough I might decide that I like this "feature"  

Does anyone have any more info on this issue ?


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## bridgman (May 4, 2007)

Here's a partial update. I didn't feel like running an Eneloop down to nothing overnight and possibly damaging it, so I put the Duracell alky back in. An hour or so later I noticed the glow had stopped and that I was unable to make it happen again.

I'm going to leave the alkaline battery in for a while and see what happens. I guess it's possible that a low battery voltage is enough to make the circuitry act up, although of course this is just a guess. It would be interesting to know how the light is wired though, since normally the switch would remove power to everything when off making it impossible for the light to come on other than via stored power in the regulator.

Can anyone who has seen this problem comment on (a) what kind of battery was being used and (b) how fresh that battery was ? Now that I have gone back to alky cells the light seems quite well behaved.

I still really like this light.


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## ringzero (May 4, 2007)

bridgman said:


> Tonight I was tinkering with the light and made the mistake of wishing it had a low mode. Like magic, the next time I turned the light off it stayed on in a low mode rather than switching off....Does anyone have any more info on this issue ?



Hey bridgman, sorry to hear you're experiencing this issue with your MOLLE light. Several other people mentioned this same issue earlier in the thread.

This is why I haven't ordered any MOLLE lights yet. I've been hoping that Pentagonlight would resolve this issue rapidly.

It's a shame that a great little light like the MOLLE light, sourced from a reputable manufacturer like Pentagonlight, is exhibiting quality problems.

.


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## bridgman (May 4, 2007)

Thanks. I suspect that if this were a simple quality problem Pentagonlight would have fixed it "same day". It's got to be really frustrating for Pentagonlight because all reports indicate that the lights work fine when shipped and received -- the problem, if it does appear, only shows up after some use and then comes & goes intermittently.

In my case, an hour or so after going back to an alkaline battery the problem disappeared and has not come back. I'm going to run for a few days with the alkaline then switch back to NiMH and see if that makes a difference. This could be a red herring of course, since switching back to alkaline did not make any *immediate* difference. 

I'll ping the mfg today and see what information they have. As long as they have a couple of lights in house which consistently exhibit this problem then they should be able to figure out what is going on. 

The problem doesn't seem that much different from what some A2s do on low batteries, although their design (where the mechanical switch interrupts everything) precludes this kind of "coming on by itself" problem. Leakage when off is not that unusual in products with electronic switches although it is does drive designers and mfg engineers nuts.

More to come.


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## JNewell (May 4, 2007)

> Like magic, the next time I turned the light off it stayed on in a low mode rather than switching off.


Yeah, this isn't low, it's a defect either in design or production - I don't know which. When these first shipped there were a number of people who had this problem, and it is a problem because it'll kill the battery. My light would turn off and then turn itself back on in "low mode" hours later - result, dead battery.

Pentagonlight really needs to address this because it makes even a light used for casual purposes useless. Given the fact that they're marketing this to the mil/sworn market, it's much worse.


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## bridgman (May 5, 2007)

Update 24 hours later -- I carried the light around with me for a day, turned it on and off randomly when time permitted, and checked for glow frequently. No sign of problems at all. 

I'm going to swap in an Eneloop NiMH again and see if the problem comes back. I read all the docco on the light from mfg (there's not much) but they are VERY consistent re: only mentioning the use of alkaline batteries.

JNewell (and anyone else who ran into this issue), were you running alkaline or rechargeable when you experienced problems, and how fresh were the cells ?


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## JNewell (May 5, 2007)

Alkalines here.


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## Flash_Gordon (May 5, 2007)

Mine exhibited the problem on alkalines. I tried several brands with the same result.

Pentagon replaced my light with a new one in full retail packaging and the turn around time was very quick.

My feeling is that this is an electronic problem or possibly PCB contamination. I doubt it is battery chemistry related.

If your light has had this problem, I would send it back. Otherwise you will never be able to trust it. Mine would randomly turn on in the pouch and drain the battery.

The replacement has been good.

Mark


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## JNewell (May 5, 2007)

Flash, how quick was the turnaround time? Mine has been out there a while.


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## bridgman (May 5, 2007)

>>My feeling is that this is an electronic problem or possibly PCB contamination. I doubt it is battery chemistry related.

Agreed. The more I think about it the less likely it seems that the light would have an electronic switch anyways -- if there is a quiet "click" that implies constant-on is implemented mechanically. Maybe something as simple as one of the contact fingers in the switch making very light contact ?


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## Flash_Gordon (May 6, 2007)

JNewell said:


> Flash, how quick was the turnaround time? Mine has been out there a while.



I sent mine in via Priority Mail and they returned it via first class. Under two weeks.

Be sure to call and get an RMA before you send your light.

Mark


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## JNewell (May 10, 2007)

Well, my replacement light arrived today. Will be testing it out to make sure this one stays off.


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## bridgman (May 14, 2007)

How is the new light working out ?

My light stopped acting up just after the last post, and has operated flawlessly ever since. It's probably my most used light now, although the A2 is still preferred when I'm away from the house after dark and need to navigate AND see at a distance.


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## Rat6P (Jul 7, 2008)

I know this is an older thread...but didnt want top start a new one.

Can anyone with a P molle give me their opinion as to whether the molle light will perform adequately in the following scenario.

Possibly going hiking with a couple of mates up Mount Fuji.
Will be doing it at night so we get to the top for sunrise.
From what I know its not a real climb...more like a steep, slow walk.
Anywhere from 5-10hrs, depending on where we start from.

Would be clipped to the shoulder strap of a backpack i'm guessing.

Would the molle light perform well in this task.....giving enough light on the ground immediately infront as to safely navigate around obstacles and avoid twisting ankles etc?

cheers


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