# Anyone buy the Armytek Tiara A1 or C1 yet?



## Beacon of Light

I ordered the Pro model of each last week. I sure hope it's not the same disaster as the Wizard Pro from last year.


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## beast1210

just arrived today, what was the "disaster" last year? I have the wizard pro, no issues.


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## blackbalsam

just got the pro c1 warm


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## StudFreeman

What do you guys think of them so far?

Also, did they change anything about the switch feel since the Wizard Pro? I have a WP – I like it a lot overall but the switch button (the clicky itself, not the silicone cover) is too small and requires a touch more force than I'd like.


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## jcs0001

I just received my tiar a1 pro yesterday. I don't have anything with a similar switch but find with a little practice it is fairly easy to use. It is very bright on eneloops - don't yet have any 14500 to try out in it.

It came with two tailcaps - one magnetic and one not. The manual was not included but it is on armyteks site anyway.

So far very impressed with the modes and the build. Tailcap threading is as good or better than any I have had.

John.


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## kj75

Beacon of Light said:


> I ordered the Pro model of each last week. I sure hope it's not the same disaster as the Wizard Pro from last year.



Please tell us about your "disaster" Wizard Pro...


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## ronniepudding

For those that have them in hand, I'd be curious to hear comparisons between the Tiaras and equivalent Zebralight lamps (if you have experience with them).

Thanks.


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## Beacon of Light

Read the thread for the Wizard Pro from 2013. Some highlights were the color indicators were wrong colors, some lights were unable to turn on after a glitch which was able to be recreated on any Wizard Pro by tapping it hard and it would fail to turn on. IIRC there were also reports of this turning off without turning back on even without tapping it hard on one end. The temperature shut off was buggy or inaccurate. Temp protection would step down too soon. Those are the problems off the top of my head but the real disaster is the way they handled the replacements as they were working on a v1.5 which had a better UI that most people preferred but as of today v1.5 is not available. It was told it would have been available I guess Aug or September 2013 and delays kept pushing it back and then it was on the back burner from Armytek since they released these new lights and sort of kicked the v1.5 Wizard Pro can down the road.



beast1210 said:


> just arrived today, what was the "disaster" last year? I have the wizard pro, no issues.


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## Beacon of Light

read post #8



kj75 said:


> Please tell us about your "disaster" Wizard Pro...


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## Beacon of Light

Ok so I spent about an hour with both the Tiara A1 Pro and C1 Pro and the levels for firefly are off between the two even though they are supposed to have the same lumens per mode. If I had to guess the A1 is closer to the truth. The .1 lumens on the A1 looks right but the C1 looks like .01 lumens. The 2 lumen mode on the A1 looks lower than 2 lumens as it is lower lumens than the lowest firefly on the Wizard Pro which is supposed to be .5 lumens. The C1 on the 2nd firefly mode (2 lumens) is just a hair bit brighter than the .1 lumen mode of the A1 and it is MUCH lower than the .5 lumen firefly of the Wizard Pro. The 3rd mode or low mode is 12 lumens and both the A1 and C1 look the same here. The rest of the modes are pretty spot on between those two. 

I am waiting to see others comments on this as the C1 lows (I can't believe I of all people will be complaining about this) of the firefly modes are too low and then the huge jump to 12 lumens is blinding almost. So my approx guestimation for the C1 run like this: 

*C1 Pro - .01 lumens / .2 lumens / 12 lumens....
*
The A1 seems more useable at:

*A1 Pro - .1 lumens / 2 lumens / 12 lumens....* 

Did I receive a defective C1 Pro model? Lumen specs should be the same as A1 Pro but are not. What's up with that?

I still prefer the 7 lumen mode of the Wizard Pro as it's not a HUGE jump from .5 lumens.

My wish would be if they lowered the 3rd level a bit to be around 7 like the WP. The levels would seem more balanced at:

*.1 lumens / 2 lumens / 7 lumens / 75 lumens / 250 lumens / 750 lumens* instead of:

*.1 lumens / 2 lumens / 12 lumens / 85 lumens / 250 lumens / 750 lumens*. 

Also I received no instructions which is a bummer considering the Wizard Pro's came with instructions (albeit the written instructions were different than the online instructions which were the more correct of the two). 

Another problem I noticed after reading the instructions online is there is no mention of how to check for battery voltage as it IS listed as a feature on the specs for the Tiara Pro. One of the features I use often is this battery level check on my Wizard Pro and an important reason I decided to buy both the A1 and C1 Pro. 

I also didn't receive a non-magnetic tailcap on both the A1 or the C1. It just had the magnetic one already installed on the headlamp. The only extra parts were 2 o-rings and a clip in a sealed bag on both A1 and C1. What's up with that?

So, I have concerns that there are still problems considering I didn't get the extra tailcaps, the modes on the C1 is off on firefly modes, no printed instructions, and the battery voltage meter was advertised but not mentioned in the instructions which to me is bait and switch.

Armytek had a year to "get it right" this time with their launch of the Tiaras, but it doesn't seem much different or better than the Wizard Pro launch. I notice Zebralight never seems to have these issues when they release new lights and their specs are always spot on and the lumen levels are consistent even between different models. I have quite a bit of experience with Zebralight as I own over 10 Zebralight models now.


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## Beacon of Light

same exact switch, which I'm not really a fan of but I've accepted it. 



StudFreeman said:


> What do you guys think of them so far?
> 
> Also, did they change anything about the switch feel since the Wizard Pro? I have a WP – I like it a lot overall but the switch button (the clicky itself, not the silicone cover) is too small and requires a touch more force than I'd like.


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## Beacon of Light

Tiara A1/C1 Pro comparison beamshots

*A1 .1 lumen* ----------------------------------------- *C1 .1 lumen*










*A1 2 lumen ----------------------------------------------C1 2 lumen*









*A1 12 lumens ------------------------------------------C1 12 lumens*









Compare my Armytek Wizard Pro model:

*Wizard .5 lumens* *---------------------------------------Wizard 7 lumens








*
*Wizard 30 lumens*


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## jcs0001

Beacon of Light:

The online pdf instructions -page 2 - show that the battery check is part of the strobe modes. They are accessed by turning the light on and then pressing the switch 4 times quickly. The two strobe modes are then sorted through by pressing and holding the switch.

It may be necessary to program the light for the battery type first - as per page one instructions (under Initial Service).

It's too bad you didn't get the extra tailcap. I did notice that the magnetic tailcap has a slot that looks like it is meant for a coin (to remove the magnet). I did try this however was reluctant to put a lot of force on it and it did not come apart.

I've noticed that my light gives the proper voltage with two newer duraloops however does not with an old and tired eneloop (in this case it shows 1.8 volts for the battery when it is 1.2+ volts on my multimeter).

John.


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## jcs0001

I should add that the lowest two (moonlight) modes on mine are quite useful - seems strange that the C1 is so much different.

John.


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## jcs0001

I've been playing with the voltage display and found that it didn't work properly with a decent duraloop when freshly put into the light. However after running the light on high for a minute or so it worked as expected. Seems that to get a decent reading the light should be on for a little bit immediately before going into the voltage reading mode.

John.


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## chasg

Got my Tiara yesterday, and immediately went looking for reviews. This is my first post here, but I've read many amazingly detailed reviews, and was surprised to learn that the light has _just_ come out (I never get in early on _anything_!). 

Yep, battery check is third strobe mode. First set of blinks is the voltage value before the decimal point, second set is the value after the decimal point (e.g. 3 blinks then 7 blinks is 3.7V). Clever.

I too only got the magnetic tail cap, and I did open it with a coin (opened reasonably easily). The screw in part of the cap is, disappointingly, plastic, so I won't be messing with it that much (it has a laughably pinhole-sized bit through which it might be possible to thread some dental floss as a lanyard) . The magnet is bigger than I thought it'd be: it's a bit smaller than the diameter of the tail cap, and about 4mm thick. I assume the non-magnetic tail cap is about 8mm shorter, I'm sorry I didn't get one with the light, but I didn't read anywhere that I would get two caps (only here).

I have behind the glass what looks like either the arc of a crack in the glass, or perhaps some thin black metal/plastic sticking out into the beam cast by the LED. It doesn't seem to affect the beam pattern (I'm no expert), but it does mar the perfection of this brand new light 

The light certainly is a lot larger than my Zebralight SC52, and quite a bit heavier. Not _too_ large or heavy for me, but more than I thought it'd be (I was going buy a Wizard before spotting the Tiara, so I'm grateful I didn't, size wise). I do like how bright it can be with a 14500 in it! 

The buckle arrangement of the head strap is different from that described in the manual, but it was simple to figure it out (just strange that there would be that discrepancy).

Lastly, I am spoiled by the easy use of the SC52 button, the Tiara's button requires substantially more force.

Cheers!

Chas



jcs0001 said:


> Beacon of Light:
> 
> The online pdf instructions -page 2 - show that the battery check is part of the strobe modes. They are accessed by turning the light on and then pressing the switch 4 times quickly. The two strobe modes are then sorted through by pressing and holding the switch.
> 
> It may be necessary to program the light for the battery type first - as per page one instructions (under Initial Service).
> 
> It's too bad you didn't get the extra tailcap. I did notice that the magnetic tailcap has a slot that looks like it is meant for a coin (to remove the magnet). I did try this however was reluctant to put a lot of force on it and it did not come apart.
> 
> I've noticed that my light gives the proper voltage with two newer duraloops however does not with an old and tired eneloop (in this case it shows 1.8 volts for the battery when it is 1.2+ volts on my multimeter).
> 
> John.


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## jcs0001

Chas:

I bought mine directly from Armytek - wonder if that has anything to do with the two tailcaps?

Have you tried it with a 14500? I'm waiting to get a couple that are on order. As far as I know only the highest mode is different than with an aa battery - should be interesting to see.

John.


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## chasg

I bought mine directly from Armytek too! Mine was drop-shipped direct from China though, was yours? I also got a gold bezel, wonder if that has anything to do with it (a semi-custom build, vs. a "standard" build?).

I've only tried it with a 14500, 950 lumens is very bright! Well worth it 

Cheers!

Chas



jcs0001 said:


> Chas:
> 
> I bought mine directly from Armytek - wonder if that has anything to do with the two tailcaps?
> 
> Have you tried it with a 14500? I'm waiting to get a couple that are on order. As far as I know only the highest mode is different than with an aa battery - should be interesting to see.
> 
> John.


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## Beacon of Light

jcs0001 said:


> Beacon of Light:
> 
> The online pdf instructions -page 2 - show that the battery check is part of the strobe modes. They are accessed by turning the light on and then pressing the switch 4 times quickly. The two strobe modes are then sorted through by pressing and holding the switch.
> 
> It may be necessary to program the light for the battery type first - as per page one instructions (under Initial Service).
> 
> It's too bad you didn't get the extra tailcap. I did notice that the magnetic tailcap has a slot that looks like it is meant for a coin (to remove the magnet). I did try this however was reluctant to put a lot of force on it and it did not come apart.
> 
> I've noticed that my light gives the proper voltage with two newer duraloops however does not with an old and tired eneloop (in this case it shows 1.8 volts for the battery when it is 1.2+ volts on my multimeter).
> 
> John.



John thanks for the heads up. I didn't notice there was a second page on the PDF manual. I tried the voltage meter and it works. My fresh off the charger Eneloop also reads 1.8v which is strange. I'm still at a loss as to the C1 Pro having much lower firefly modes than the A1. Does anyone that have both the A1 and C1 notice this as well? Like I said the firefly modes are unusable on the C1 and the A1 is much better.


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## syracuse

I do have Tiara C1 Pro WW, also brought it directly from Armytek. I've got only one tail cap with magnet. Compared with my Wizard Pro and other several lights, all modes of my sample seem correct. 
I've order another A1 Pro WW from HKE, now it is on the way. I'll report back when the A1 arrive.


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## jcs0001

Chasg:

Mine was also drop shipped from China.

Beacon:

The voltage meter on mine works if I use it on high for a minute or two then try it. This is with a freshly charged battery so I suspect that one that has been used a bit will lead to it working ok. If I don't use the light for a bit before measuring the voltage it also reads about 1.8 volts.

Syracuse: 

It will be interesting to see how yours pan out.

John.


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## rotncore

A1 and C1 coming from China, tracking shows it made it into the country late last week, so I should have them this week. I'll see if the firefly levels similar to yours, or maybe yours are a fluke.


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## chasg

Hey John,

Right, we both ordered directly from Armytek, we both got packages direct from China, but you got the tail cap that I'd prefer to have (as well as magnetic). Bummer for me.

Please tell me (and I'm just curious): what was the box like that the light came in? Mine was just about as small as possible (enough room for light, headband, small bag with o-rings and clip), plain brown, no label or any sort of paper inserts. It itself was in a shipping envelope (so no chance of a spare tail cap falling out). The box was also slightly crushed, but I doubt that that's an enviable feature ;-)

Cheers!

Chas


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## Beacon of Light

I bought mine directly from Armytek and it shipped from China. Came in a white envelope and the A1 and C1 came in brown boxes very similar to Zebralight boxes. There were labels on my boxes. Strange you got one without labels.


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## jcs0001

Chas:

Mine came in a very small mid brown cardboard box - it has a white label on tip with "Armytek" and "Tiara A1 Pro Silver / XM-L2" and a barcode underneath. It was enclosed in a white tyvek style envelope. Amazingly the box wasn't crushed at all.

John.


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## syracuse

John,

When did you buy your light, on that 24hrs promotion or before that? I brought mine on that Friday 24hrs promotion and got only one tailcap. My package was the same as yours.


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## chasg

Just got an email from Armytek, it seems that the Tiara Pro is only _supposed_ to come with one tailcap, the magnetic one: 

"Tiara Pro series has only one tail cap with a magnet which can be unscrewed and used as a non-magnetic tail cap."

Rats, usually the "pro" version of a product is the one with the more options (true, of course, when it comes to settings, just not tail caps).


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## chasg

I just got an Armytek promo email for Father's Day (I won't put the link here, not sure if it's against the rules, but it's on their promo page) that's relevant to this discussion: buy two flashlights and get a Tiara A1 free.

I'm genuinely thinking of sending my A1 Pro back, and then rebuying it and another light, and getting a free Tiara A1 (and, LOL, a non-magnetic tail cap ;-) I was going to buy a Wizard before I saw the Tiaras, I might still get one...


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## Beacon of Light

syracuse, does your C1 Pro WW have similar firefly modes to the pictures of mine in post #12? I just want to make sure I don't have a lemon here. I am the first person that prefers low lows on all of my lights, but I am guessing with the TIR optic it disperses the light so much that anything under .1 lumen it's too dim to really do anything unless you are a few inches from the object you are looking at. 

Also if you have a Wizard Pro, if you set the Wizard Pro to .5 lumens, is the 2 lumen mode of your C1 Pro dimmer at 2 lumens than the Wizard at .5 lumens? This is what I have found for both my C1 and A1.



syracuse said:


> I do have Tiara C1 Pro WW, also brought it directly from Armytek. I've got only one tail cap with magnet. Compared with my Wizard Pro and other several lights, all modes of my sample seem correct.
> I've order another A1 Pro WW from HKE, now it is on the way. I'll report back when the A1 arrive.


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## Beacon of Light

The wording of the promo is kind of vague. Chasq, I'm not sure if you ordered 2 headlamps if you'd get the free A1. It says buy any two FLASHLIGHTS, so I'm not sure 2 headlamps would qualify as flashlights or if they just mean 2 lights regardless if it is handheld or headlamp. You may want to email them, but post back here or OM me as I may go that route myself, especially if I have to return the C1 Pro due to the sketchy firefly modes.



chasg said:


> I just got an Armytek promo email for Father's Day (I won't put the link here, not sure if it's against the rules, but it's on their promo page) that's relevant to this discussion: buy two flashlights and get a Tiara A1 free.
> 
> I'm genuinely thinking of sending my A1 Pro back, and then rebuying it and another light, and getting a free Tiara A1 (and, LOL, a non-magnetic tail cap ;-) I was going to buy a Wizard before I saw the Tiaras, I might still get one...


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## Beacon of Light

Ok I received a PM from a CPF member asking me a few questions about the A1 and C1 Pros. They wanted to see if the A1 Pro really produced 550 lumens. So I checked and on both mine went from 250 lumen mode back to the 12 lumen mode. It's like neither light has that 8th mode. I tried with several different freshly charged batteries and this still occurs. I am guessing the A1 Pro needs a 14500 to even get that 750 lumen mode? Strange though that the C1 Pro with a freshly charged RCR123 only gets the 250 lumen mode and then skips back to the 12 lumen mode. Is this normal?

Glad that member contacted me as I am oblivious to stuff like the super high output modes as I never use them on any of my lights as I usually opt for the long lasting low modes just for the sake of battery life. Now I'll have to compare the higher modes to my Wizard Pro just to see how the C1 and A1 compare.


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## 556hollowtip

This has me worried. I also had ordered a C1 Tiara during The 24 hour sale. To add to the possible unit issues, just checked the Chinapost tracking earlier today and showed "undeliverable to the designated address". The tracker showed a city approx 60 miles away from my current address. .... 
My invoice receipt shows correct address for the ship to.
Emailed Armytek amd anxious to hear their response. Bummer to wait 2 weeks, then wait 2 more.


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## syracuse

Beacon of Light said:


> syracuse, does your C1 Pro WW have similar firefly modes to the pictures of mine in post #12? I just want to make sure I don't have a lemon here. I am the first person that prefers low lows on all of my lights, but I am guessing with the TIR optic it disperses the light so much that anything under .1 lumen it's too dim to really do anything unless you are a few inches from the object you are looking at.
> 
> Also if you have a Wizard Pro, if you set the Wizard Pro to .5 lumens, is the 2 lumen mode of your C1 Pro dimmer at 2 lumens than the Wizard at .5 lumens? This is what I have found for both my C1 and A1.



Beacon, I can't clearly see your pictures. But I can confirm that 0.1Lm on my C1 Pro is slightly brighter than 0.06Lm of ZL H600Fw, lower than 0.4Lm (ZL H600Fw). From my naked eyes, it looks 50% lower when compare with 0.5Lm of my Wizard Pro WW.
I can detect PWM on 0.5Lm (Wizard Pro), but I can't detect on 0.1Lm (Tiara C1).
2Lm on Tiara C1 is definitely brighter than 0.5Lm on my Wizard.


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## syracuse

Also, Max output (890 LED Lm) on my C1 Pro with AW ICR 123 is brighter than 590 OFT Lm from my ZL H600Fw.


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## Beacon of Light

Isn't the max on the C1 Pro supposed to be 720 lumens? I don't see anything pertaining to 890 lumens in Armyteks specs.



syracuse said:


> Also, Max output (890 LED Lm) on my C1 Pro with AW ICR 123 is brighter than 590 OFT Lm from my ZL H600Fw.


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## syracuse

From their web and their manual, when using Li-ion, the max output on Tiara CW is 950 LED lumens and WW is 890 LED lumens. 
720 LED lumens is max out put of CW version when using CR123A.


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## Beacon of Light

I guess mine is defective then as I just tested my new Zebralight H52F and set it to .06 lumens and while looking at both emitters it looks similar with a slightly brighter H52F. When you move the light closer to a surface (which at this low a level is within a couple of inches) the hotspot on the H52F is greater and the spill is larger. This shouldn't be the case as the Zebralight is only .06 lumens at this mode and the Tiara C1 Pro is at .10 lumens.

Taking beamshots at this level with my cell phone would be fruitless as without using the flash it would be like in post #12 where the picture is all black. But trust me, the Zebralight at a lower level is brighter than the Tiara Pro C1 for some reason.



syracuse said:


> Beacon, I can't clearly see your pictures. But I can confirm that 0.1Lm on my C1 Pro is slightly brighter than 0.06Lm of ZL H600Fw, lower than 0.4Lm (ZL H600Fw). From my naked eyes, it looks 50% lower when compare with 0.5Lm of my Wizard Pro WW.
> I can detect PWM on 0.5Lm (Wizard Pro), but I can't detect on 0.1Lm (Tiara C1).
> 2Lm on Tiara C1 is definitely brighter than 0.5Lm on my Wizard.


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## Beacon of Light

Also think I figured out the missing mode problem I was having. If anyone wants to try to recreate this problem please try it and post back here. I was trying to test the high modes just for a CPF member that asked me about the 550 lumen mode. Well since I mainly stick to low modes I never gave it a thought. When I tried to get to the next mode after 250 lumen on either light it would go back down to 12 lumen mode or main 1. 

Today I was re-reading the instruction manual online (come on Armytek how much does it cost to print out a small card with the same info as the PDF?) and figured I might try the initial battery selection configuration AA/Li-ion or with the C1 CR123/RCR123. Well while doing this it seemed like there was another higher mode. Sure enough I counted them off and it was there now. 

The reason I wasn't seeing the higher mode was I was clicking each mode individually. Pressing to next mode then waiting a few seconds, then pressing for next mode ect. When I press and hold, the higher mode actually appears. Why would the high mode disappear if you do not press and hold to select through the modes? Is this a glitch or will they call this a feature?

Can someone try this and see if this happens on their lights? This occurs on both of my A1 Pro and C1 Pro. It doesn't seem planned more like a defect or glitch.


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## syracuse

Beacon, Tiara Pro has 3 modes. The first is moon mode (0.1Lm and 2Lm). The second is main mode (next 3 steps). The third is max output.
You can reach max output by:-
From off, press and hold, the light will ramp up, max out put will be on the sixth step.
From moon mode, double click to go to main mode, then double click again to go to max.
From main mode, double click to go to max.
When the light turn on for a while, if you press and hold, the light will ramp up in circle only 3 steps in main mode.

Hope it helps.


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## Beacon of Light

syracuse, yes I understand that but I never do the double click things with Armyteks as I don't care for the way they route their UI. There is no way to ever revert back to firefly mode 1 or 2 once you get to main or max mode without shutting the light off first. So I always either incrementally step up levels pausing in between or doing the press and hold technique. Either way, it should yield the same results but your post doesn't explain why if you click incrementally between modes it will skip max mode and revert back to main1 12 lumen mode.


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## ArmyTek

Beacon of Light said:


> Also think I figured out the missing mode problem I was having. If anyone wants to try to recreate this problem please try it and post back here. I was trying to test the high modes just for a CPF member that asked me about the 550 lumen mode. Well since I mainly stick to low modes I never gave it a thought. When I tried to get to the next mode after 250 lumen on either light it would go back down to 12 lumen mode or main 1.
> 
> Today I was re-reading the instruction manual online (come on Armytek how much does it cost to print out a small card with the same info as the PDF?) and figured I might try the initial battery selection configuration AA/Li-ion or with the C1 CR123/RCR123. Well while doing this it seemed like there was another higher mode. Sure enough I counted them off and it was there now.
> 
> The reason I wasn't seeing the higher mode was I was clicking each mode individually. Pressing to next mode then waiting a few seconds, then pressing for next mode ect. When I press and hold, the higher mode actually appears. Why would the high mode disappear if you do not press and hold to select through the modes? Is this a glitch or will they call this a feature?
> 
> Can someone try this and see if this happens on their lights? This occurs on both of my A1 Pro and C1 Pro. It doesn't seem planned more like a defect or glitch.



Yes, it is a headlamp's feature. When you press and hold the button, you go through 3 main modes in a circle - thus you can switch between most frequently used modes quickly and easily. Not everyone wants to go through 5 or 8 modes to switch to Main 1 from Main 2 for example. If you need to access additional modes - Max, Fireflies or Strobes - you can easily achive it if you press and hold the button from the OFF-state.


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## rotncore

I just got my Tiara's (C1 Pro and A1 Pro) in the mail yesterday, and my feedback is that they are well constructed, and well finished lights. The build quality feels refined, and the matte black finish is quite nice, and it is nice to see the substantial double orings and well lubricated threads in the tailcap. I read that some people were looking for 2 tailcaps? Mine had the one, it is magnetic, and the magnet is removable, so you can convert it to a non-magnetic if you want.

I will echo what others have said here about the UI, it takes some getting used to, and would definitely have appreciated a physical manual. The online manual is written awkwardly - probably a translation - so it isn't as easy to comprehend the mode switching as I think it could be had it been written concisely in English first. No manual makes it a bad gift item. I suspect the lack of a manual was a time saving effort to get them to market.

The strobe function is kind of pointless to me, especially since it takes 4 rapid clicks to access, and there is near zero chance of pulling that off with it on your head, combined with the fairly heavy resistance of the switch, and the speed of the clicks needed.

Overall, a good headlamp, but the Achilles heel from making it an instant favourite is the somewhat complex UI, with instructions that aren't in the box, and even with the instructions takes some trial and error to navigate. My reference points are a Spark SG3, an old Zebralight H50 that I've since given away, and a Surefire Minimus.


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## chasg

Hey Beacon,

I wrote Armytek about the promo: it's _any_ two of their lights. From their email: "Yes, any two flashlights. They can be Predator, Viking, Partner, Tiara or Barracuda lights." (Wizards are out of stock).

My particular A1 Pro has a piece of plastic or something behind the lens. Armytek has offered to replace it (and pay the shipping), but declined my suggestion that I keep it, order another and get the Father's Day promo of a Free Tiara (they feel it wouldn't be fair to other customers. I can understand that, but am a bit bummed).

I need the flashlight for an event end of June, but after that I'll be sending it back to China for a replacement. Bummed about that also, probably take a month :-(

Chas



Beacon of Light said:


> The wording of the promo is kind of vague. Chasq, I'm not sure if you ordered 2 headlamps if you'd get the free A1. It says buy any two FLASHLIGHTS, so I'm not sure 2 headlamps would qualify as flashlights or if they just mean 2 lights regardless if it is handheld or headlamp. You may want to email them, but post back here or OM me as I may go that route myself, especially if I have to return the C1 Pro due to the sketchy firefly modes.


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## jcs0001

Just to be clear, I didn't expect to receive two tailcaps and was surprised that I did.

I've put together a small brief set of instructions for the A1 pro and can eventually make it a small pdf if anyone is interested. I'll post it below and if anyone has any constructive critisism please let me know. I haven't seen the instructions for the c1 pro - are they the same?



Tiara A1 Pro Abrieviated instructions:

Setting up battery type (AA or 14500):


install battery. 
press and hold. Light will cycle through all modes then turn itself off. 
immediately release button and click once. 
light will flash 3 times per second. 
click once for AA or twice for 14500. 
light will flash once for AA or twice for 14500. 
click once to turn off. 
 
Access 2 strobes and battery voltage:


while light is on, click four times quickly. 
press switch and hold to cycle through the three modes. Release to choose mode. 
double click to go back to last main mode.
last used strobe will show up when strobe is next activated (mode memory). 
 
Firefly (2 modes):


from Off, press and hold, to cycle through firefly and main modes. Release to choose mode.
last used firefly or main mode will show up when light is turned on with one click (mode memory). 
 
Max. Mode:


while in main mode and on, double click. 
while in main mode and on, click once then press – max while holding, returns to main when released. 
while in firefly mode double click for main mode then double click again for max. 
 
(modified after initial post of instructions).

John.


----------



## Beacon of Light

rotncore, can you post a pic of the firefly 1 (.1 lumen) and firefly 2 (2 lumen) in a side by side comparison like I did in post #12 of the Tiara A1 and Tiara C1. I still haven't gotten an answer from Armytek if they are supposed to be the same brightness between models which I find ridiculous as I've had these for a good part of a week now and they have to contact a technician to be able to determine if the A1 and C1 should have identical Firefly modes.


----------



## Beacon of Light

For me on my Wizard Pro the most frequently used modes are the .5 lumen Firefly and the 7 lumen low. Once you go to the 7 lumen low you have to turn it off and then back on to get the firefly. This is a hassle. Same difference with the A1 Pro. I use the second Firefly mode and the 12 lumen low but once in 12 lumen mode you can't go back to Firfly mode without turning off the light, very inconvenient. You designed the light with the assumptions people will be using the 12 lumen/ 85 lumen and 250 lumen modes the most but I rarely ever need 12 lumens as I would have opted for the 7 lumen mode the Wiazrd Pro has as the jump from 2 lumens to 12 lumens is huge.



ArmyTek said:


> Yes, it is a headlamp's feature. When you press and hold the button, you go through 3 main modes in a circle - thus you can switch between most frequently used modes quickly and easily. Not everyone wants to go through 5 or 8 modes to switch to Main 1 from Main 2 for example. If you need to access additional modes - Max, Fireflies or Strobes - you can easily achive it if you press and hold the button from the OFF-state.


----------



## rotncore

Firefly 1 Straight at camera:






Firefly 2 wall bounce:





They look pretty equal to my eye, in firefly 2 the picture makes the C1 look a bit brighter.



Beacon of Light said:


> rotncore, can you post a pic of the firefly 1 (.1 lumen) and firefly 2 (2 lumen) in a side by side comparison like I did in post #12 of the Tiara A1 and Tiara C1. I still haven't gotten an answer from Armytek if they are supposed to be the same brightness between models which I find ridiculous as I've had these for a good part of a week now and they have to contact a technician to be able to determine if the A1 and C1 should have identical Firefly modes.


----------



## Beacon of Light

Yes, they both look equal on both firefly modes, I must have a defective C1 Pro then. Just curious what battery are you using in your C1? Thanks for the pictures to clear up this mystery. Now to get Armytek to send me out a new C1 Pro that they can test before sending to make sure it works properly this time.


----------



## rotncore

Beacon of Light said:


> Just curious what battery are you using in your C1? Thanks for the pictures to clear up this mystery.



Glad to help. Energizer CR123 primary cell.


----------



## reppans

Anyone know if this light will support a 3V CRAA (14505) lithium primary?

It's a shame to see the volatility/inaccuracy in the sub-lumen and low lumen levels - I tend to use them ~40/40% of the time, so for me, it's important these levels are right. 



Beacon of Light said:


> Armytek had a year to "get it right" this time with their launch of the Tiaras, but it doesn't seem much different or better than the Wizard Pro launch. I notice Zebralight never seems to have these issues when they release new lights and their specs are always spot on and the lumen levels are consistent even between different models. I have quite a bit of experience with Zebralight as I own over 10 Zebralight models now.



I'm surprised at this ^^ I found my recent ZL (my second and probably last) to be about the least accurate (most exaggerating) of any light I own and I collect AA/sub-lumen lights. Here's a moonlight shot of an H51w (0.18 lm), QPA-X (0.3 lm), and SC52 (0.34 lm). In a side-by-side moonlight runtime test with 5-6 other lights and my lightbox, it also came in last in terms of lumen-hours efficiency, despite claims of being 3x more efficient than the others.


----------



## saypat

Hi all. Very frustrated here! Got mine, A! Pro WW, from HKE. If I click to on, then I can ramp thru low, med, high, 3 modes, that's it. The other guy mentioned you could 'step' thru the modes? Mine won't do that. Next issue is I hold down the switch from off supposedly to get to Firefly. I do that and there is no firefly. It is the same as on the main mode - low, med, high. No firefly. I want firefly! The strobes work, along with the battery check but it is off from my DMM. How do you get 8 modes? High, med, low, on main .. and two strobes, what else. Also my switch takes so much pressure to press! My thumb is killing me!

If I hold down the switch from off, I am supposed to go directly to a firefly, right? So, if I do that and don't have a firefly is my light defective??? Another question. When you access firefly and scroll thru, how many modes are there in this setting?

I am so frustrated!

thanks for any help.

patrick


edit: ok, when I held down the switch from off, I did get a firefly mode, just didn't see it :thinking: I can scroll thru 4 modes here. Can someone please tell me HOW they get 8 modes? And where are they?

thank you


edit #2: got everything figured out! It was all user error! The 8th mode shows up with a 14500. If anyone comes up with a solution to make the switch easier, tolerable, PLEASE let me know!





[/URL]! [/IMG]


----------



## saypat

don't understand why the thread would just die all of a sudden. Bizarre.


----------



## Beacon of Light

saypat said:


> don't understand why the thread would just die all of a sudden. Bizarre.



I was wondering the same exact thing.

FWIW, I ordered 2 more Armytek Tiaras during the Father's Day promo a C1 and C1 Pro, so I will see if this next C1 Pro has the same issues as the one I have now. I still haven't heard back from Sandra or anyone from Armytek and all I was expecting them to do was tell me if my C1 Pro was normal and I sent a link to this thread and they can see that another user has a A1 Pro and C1 Pro and all levels are identical. I was told initially it would take a day to get back to me and it's been a week... I think they are hoping I just shut up and go away...


----------



## lightmyfire13

I've Bought one still awaiting delivery ...don't know what to make of their lumen claims....


----------



## Taz80

Hi, I was thinking of getting the C1, but I haven't seen any pictures of the clip it's supposed to come with. Is it possible to clip it to a ball cap to use as a head lamp? This is the way I use my SG3 and H502.


----------



## StudFreeman

Is the Tiara's optic the same as the Wizard's?


----------



## Beacon of Light

yes.it.is


----------



## saypat

I have the Tiara A1 Pro WW, and couldn't be happier with my purchase. It was confusing at first. The switch was way stiff at first but has loosened a bit and I have figured an easier way to use it. The beam is fantastic, as is the brightness. The firefly modes are perfect. Very bright on a 14500. Built like a tank. Really happy on this one. I would like to get the C1 Pro also, but why? 

patrick


----------



## AbbyY

Anyone noticed the tailcap of Pro version (A1 and C1) can be unscrewed using a coin and then remove the magnet? Is the cap of the end of flashlight made of plastic? It seems to be plastic for me.


----------



## jcs0001

Yes my magnetic tailcap on the a1 unscrews to remove the magnet. It does appear to be plastic but is good quality and the threads are quite nice.

John.


----------



## Beacon of Light

Well, I finally received a response from Armytek regarding the discrepancy of the firefly modes on my C1 Pro compared to other C1 Pros on here and against my own A1 Pro. The response I received is confusing at best. I will post here to see if anyone can make sense of it.

_I am really sorry for this delay in communication. I haven't had the information till now.

So, firefly modes of the current version can be differ from each other. But this mode is in the flashlight and allows a user to have a little light. 
It happens due to the organization of very bright modes in the flashlight._


----------



## likmonster

Their statement made no sense.


----------



## Beacon of Light

Exactly. So like I said earlier, I ordered ANOTHER C1 Pro and will see once it arrives how it compares. Also a C1 and the A1 they threw in for buying 2 for Father's Day sale. Still pissed they didn't offer to send out a replacement C1 Pro.


----------



## StudFreeman

*I made some runtime graphs for Max using different NiMH cells*

I've been curious as to how the Tiara A1 performed on Max with 1xNiMH since we've seen a flurry of the discussion surrounding the high output spec for a 1xAA light. I have no integrating sphere, but from what I've seen in use and from comparing ceiling bounces to lights with FL-1 output specs, I wasn't disappointed!

Furthermore I found Armytek's runtime spec of "30 minutes till 10%" using standard Eneloops was slightly conservative.


I got my Armytek Tiara A1 Pro Warm from Illumn (née Illumination Supply) yesterday. Overall build feels solid as heck. I tested runtime on max output for several types of NiMH cells as Armytek's regulation scheme for 1xAA was of much interest to me. I performed two runs using two different cells of each brand. A fan provided cooling, as Max output causes fairly massive (for 1xNiMH, especially) heat buildup in still air. The Tiara will temporarily reduce output to cool down if necessary. In my experience it became toasty but still touchable in the absence of air circulation — thankfully the Tiara's overtemp protection kicks in before it gets _too_ hot to turn off, change modes, or change the battery.

The first plot averages the lux reading values of the two runs for each brand. One reading was captured per minute, thanks to the time lapse setting on my camera 






​ 

The second plot below is comprised of the individual runtimes that were averaged to arrive at the plot above. More telling here is that there are two levels of regulated runtime on Max. I'll designate them H1 and H2.
I'll hazard that when heat is not an issue, H1 and H2 work based on limitations on current draw. When cell voltage dips below a threshold the driver will no longer increase the input current required for H1. The driver reduces current draw and the cell's voltage should subsequently rebound somewhat. The driver resumes increasing current draw while cell voltage drops to yield H2 output until the cell hits a lower bound for voltage once again at which point the driver stops increasing current draw.





​ 
Armytek's engineers deserve kudos for really optimizing top end performance for the heavy current draw that a decent NiMH cell will support. I'm gonna have to pick me up some 14500 cells for EDC use to turn things up to 11 :rock:, and maybe a second, different Tiara model to mix things up 

Edit: Here's a cleaner, less busy version:



​


----------



## RedForest UK

*Re: I made some runtime graphs for Max using different NiMH cells*

Thanks for measuring that, it's good to see the regulation is so good even at such a high output. 

Do you have any comparative ceiling bounce readings from other lights so we can estimate the absolute lumen output?


----------



## Beacon of Light

*Re: I made some runtime graphs for Max using different NiMH cells*

I received my C1 Pro, C1 and A1 from Armytek from their Father's Day promotion yesterday. They all work as expected and the sole purpose of me even buying them was to verify the C1 Pro I previously purchased was defective and it is! Armytek blew me off when I emailed them about the out of spec firefly modes on my C1 Pro. Their response I posted in post #62:

_So, firefly modes of the current version can be differ from each other. But this mode is in the flashlight and allows a user to have a little light. 
It happens due to the organization of very bright modes in the flashlight.
_
First, the response makes no sense and it is at best BS. Now after receiving the second order from Armytek it is absolute BS as all of those lights have the same 2 lumen level and the C1 Pro from 2nd order has the proper .1 lumen firefly level.

So from my first order I had the C1 Pro (defective) and A1 Pro and the second order I had the C1, C1 Pro and A1.

The A1 and C1 don't have .1 lumen firefly mode but both have the proper 2 lumen low mode.

The A1 Pro and 2nd C1 Pro have the proper .1 lumen firefly mode and the proper 2 lumen firefly 2 mode.

The defective C1 Pro from my first order the .1 lumen mode is really like .01 lumens and the 2 lumen mode is .15 lumens. So they are off by almost a factor of 10 for the firefly modes. The main modes are all spot on. 

What pisses me off is the attitude of Armytek (Sandra) by trying to not accept responsibility that they could have a defective model, but instead just issues a blank statement that there are variences in mode levels due to the brighter high modes. I was expecting them to rush order me a C1 Pro when I initially reported this problem, but I go above and beyond and buy 2 more lights that I didn't need to just prove my point and to this day they STILL aren't sending me out a replacement C1 Pro. This is not acceptable. I'm not even going to go into the wait for the V1.5 or V2.0 Wizard Pro we are all still waiting for.

How many more C1 Pros will I have to buy to prove my point when comparing them that the lemon C1 Pro I first received is a dud? A customer shouldn't have to go to this extent to prove their point to a company about their defective product just to get a replacement issued.


----------



## whiteoakjoe

_"So, firefly modes of the current version can be differ from each other. But this mode is in the flashlight and allows a user to have a little light. 
It happens due to the organization of very bright modes in the flashlight."

*That's why I'm not going to buy an Armytek light . You don't treat your customers like idiots and expect a loyal following! *
_


----------



## pebbles

I would send the defective unit back for replacement.


----------



## Camber

I just registered so I could share my experience with the Tiara A1 and C1 Pro models. 

While I was initially very happy with both (which were shipped direct from China), I soon discovered I could not access the strobe mode on my A1 no matter how many times I tried. I could however do it easily on the C1. Having had them for several weeks now, I still can't access it.

My frustration has only grown tonight though. I just went to use my C1 after returning from a week away, and it simply will not turn on. I've tried 3 regular cr123's and 3 rechargeable rcr123's. None work. It won't do anything. That is what actually led me here. I googled to see if others were having problems.

I'm really disappointed with it all.


----------



## saypat

dumb response but when I first got mine I had no idea how to use it, and I thought it had many defects. It had none, it was all user error.

Perhaps yours is coming on in the moonlight mode and u don't see it. Just trying to help. If it's defective looks like it has to go back, that can't be fun. I love my A1 Pro WW. Love the tint! Great light. I'll keep an eye on it.


----------



## TheSeeker

*Re: I made some runtime graphs for Max using different NiMH cells*

_So, firefly modes of the current version can be differ from each other. But this mode is in the flashlight and allows a user to have a little light. 
It happens due to the organization of very bright modes in the flashlight.
_
*From the wording I suspect the meaning was "lost in translation".*



How many more C1 Pros will I have to buy to prove my point when comparing them that the lemon C1 Pro I first received is a dud? A customer shouldn't have to go to this extent to prove their point to a company about their defective product just to get a replacement issued.
[/QUOTE]

*You will never "prove your point" to a company by purchasing additional products. Ship them back and request a refund. That is how companies learn.*


----------



## Beacon of Light

*Re: I made some runtime graphs for Max using different NiMH cells*

I was expecting them to ship me out a replacement first, and then issue me a return label for the defective light. Why should the customer be inconvenienced when the product is defective at no fault of the customers? Their policy is expecting me to ship it to China on my dime and once they receive it they will hopefully reimburse the full amount (only up to $15 which seems hard to do with FED EX or USPS going to China from the US). And then just hope they just don't resend the same defective light back to me (I have read this happened to other people with the Wizard Pro fiasco a year ago), or send an equally defective light. Then it would be time and money wasted for nothing. I honestly don't know how these eBay shippers can ship from China to the states and expect to still make money.


----------



## mm4mm

*Re: I made some runtime graphs for Max using different NiMH cells*

Hi,

Would anyone know if this one supports a rechargeable cr123a? I'd like to use the rechargeable Tenergy LiFePo4 cells for this.

Thanks,
Michael


----------



## UanTao

Beacon of Light said:


> Ok so I spent about an hour with both the Tiara A1 Pro and C1 Pro and the levels for firefly are off between the two even though they are supposed to have the same lumens per mode. If I had to guess the A1 is closer to the truth. The .1 lumens on the A1 looks right but the C1 looks like .01 lumens. The 2 lumen mode on the A1 looks lower than 2 lumens as it is lower lumens than the lowest firefly on the Wizard Pro which is supposed to be .5 lumens. The C1 on the 2nd firefly mode (2 lumens) is just a hair bit brighter than the .1 lumen mode of the A1 and it is MUCH lower than the .5 lumen firefly of the Wizard Pro. The 3rd mode or low mode is 12 lumens and both the A1 and C1 look the same here. The rest of the modes are pretty spot on between those two.
> 
> I am waiting to see others comments on this as the C1 lows (I can't believe I of all people will be complaining about this) of the firefly modes are too low and then the huge jump to 12 lumens is blinding almost. So my approx guestimation for the C1 run like this:
> 
> *C1 Pro - .01 lumens / .2 lumens / 12 lumens....
> *
> The A1 seems more useable at:
> 
> *A1 Pro - .1 lumens / 2 lumens / 12 lumens....*
> 
> Did I receive a defective C1 Pro model? Lumen specs should be the same as A1 Pro but are not. What's up with that?
> 
> I still prefer the 7 lumen mode of the Wizard Pro as it's not a HUGE jump from .5 lumens.
> 
> My wish would be if they lowered the 3rd level a bit to be around 7 like the WP. The levels would seem more balanced at:
> 
> *.1 lumens / 2 lumens / 7 lumens / 75 lumens / 250 lumens / 750 lumens* instead of:
> 
> *.1 lumens / 2 lumens / 12 lumens / 85 lumens / 250 lumens / 750 lumens*.
> 
> Also I received no instructions which is a bummer considering the Wizard Pro's came with instructions (albeit the written instructions were different than the online instructions which were the more correct of the two).
> 
> Another problem I noticed after reading the instructions online is there is no mention of how to check for battery voltage as it IS listed as a feature on the specs for the Tiara Pro. One of the features I use often is this battery level check on my Wizard Pro and an important reason I decided to buy both the A1 and C1 Pro.
> 
> I also didn't receive a non-magnetic tailcap on both the A1 or the C1. It just had the magnetic one already installed on the headlamp. The only extra parts were 2 o-rings and a clip in a sealed bag on both A1 and C1. What's up with that?
> 
> So, I have concerns that there are still problems considering I didn't get the extra tailcaps, the modes on the C1 is off on firefly modes, no printed instructions, and the battery voltage meter was advertised but not mentioned in the instructions which to me is bait and switch.
> 
> Armytek had a year to "get it right" this time with their launch of the Tiaras, but it doesn't seem much different or better than the Wizard Pro launch. I notice Zebralight never seems to have these issues when they release new lights and their specs are always spot on and the lumen levels are consistent even between different models. I have quite a bit of experience with Zebralight as I own over 10 Zebralight models now.




Hi Beacon,


i am new to CPF but have been reading threads where you have made some good comments. I am learning about this illumination business as I go along.

i can confirm that the Tiara C1 Pro that I have comes with the magnetic tail cap and that the lower firefly is just not usable (you can see the led is lit up but no real light coming out). The higher firefly is fine though. 

On the contrary, the Tiara C1 Pro (Warm) which I also get, has a usable amount of light coming out of the lower firefly setting. Weird, no?

The Wizard 1200 lumens are just very nice, lots of lights and better runtime and very easy to use. I guess simplifying the modes make it more efficient. Cheaper too. Although I know from reading CPF threads that people will not be happy about no low firefly mode. 

Just my contribution on the topic.


----------



## Bob Damon

*Re: I made some runtime graphs for Max using different NiMH cells*

I think it would work. But, it's only 3.0v, not 3.7v like other RCR123 batteries, so you would not get the extra output on turbo.


----------



## RedForest UK

*Re: I made some runtime graphs for Max using different NiMH cells*

Right, so my Tiara (non-pro) warm version finally arrived and I did some quick output and current measurements.

These are the measurements I got:

Sanyo eneloop (unused but not freshly charged):

Firefly1: too low to measure
Main 1: 6 lumens -- 0.06a
Main 2: 55 lumens -- 0.54a
Main 3: 145 lumens -- 1.77a
Main 4: 280 lumens -- 3.47a

Sanyo UR14500P (@3.9v):

Firefly1: too low to measure
Main 1: 11 lumens -- 0.03a
Main 2: 90 lumens -- 0.26a
Main 3: 225 lumens -- 0.62a
Main 4: 560 lumens -- 1.46a


I got the new non-pro Wizard too, and have noticed a couple of UI changes from the v1 pro Wizard. Firstly, turbo mode can be memorized now. Secondly, although the manual describes how to do it (at least how you used to be able to; with a double click and hold on the 2nd click) it is no longer possible to temporarily acces turbo mode from the main modes.

Could someone else confirm those UI changes are consistent with theirs too?


----------



## StorminMatt

*Re: I made some runtime graphs for Max using different NiMH cells*



RedForest UK said:


> Main 4: 280 lumens -- 3.47a
> 
> Main 4: 560 lumens -- 1.46a



So, in other words, 515 lumens on NiMH and 890 lumens on a 14500 are pure fantasy.


----------



## cagenuts

*Re: I made some runtime graphs for Max using different NiMH cells*

Heads up, Armytek have 10 (only) units with warm 90CRI LEDs per model of Wizard, Wizard Pro, Tiara A1 Pro and Tiara C1 Pro.

It's an awesome tint, quite yellow but not really.


----------



## RedForest UK

*Re: I made some runtime graphs for Max using different NiMH cells*



StorminMatt said:


> So, in other words, 515 lumens on NiMH and 890 lumens on a 14500 are pure fantasy.



Well they are if you take them at face value. 

Unfortunately Armytek are one of the few good manufacturers who still list LED rather than measured OTF lumens. I also took measurements with a cell that wasn't fresh off the charger. I measured it on eneloop with a fresh cell at about 340 lumens at turn on and on 14500 about 580, though these didn't last long. If you factor in a roughly 30% loss from LED to OTF lumens then you are up to almost the claimed values.

Bear in mind that my readings are relatively conservative compared to some manufacturers scales as well. For instance my SC52w (rated at 280 lumens by zebralight) is about 215 on my scale with a rested eneloop, and only 240 or so with one fresh off the charger. 

The advertising is misleading though, for sure.


----------



## StorminMatt

*Re: I made some runtime graphs for Max using different NiMH cells*



RedForest UK said:


> Well they are if you take them at face value.
> 
> Unfortunately Armytek are one of the few good manufacturers who still list LED rather than measured OTF lumens. I also took measurements with a cell that wasn't fresh off the charger. I measured it on eneloop with a fresh cell at about 340 lumens at turn on and on 14500 about 580, though these didn't last long. If you factor in a roughly 30% loss from LED to OTF lumens then you are up to almost the claimed values.
> 
> Bear in mind that my readings are relatively conservative compared to some manufacturers scales as well. For instance my SC52w (rated at 280 lumens by zebralight) is about 215 on my scale with a rested eneloop, and only 240 or so with one fresh off the charger.
> 
> The advertising is misleading though, for sure.



340 measured lumens? That's actually REALLY close to my guesstimate of 350 lumens with my A1. All in all, it's not too bad, especially since it actually beats the output of the Zebralight 1xAA lights. Of course, the lumen ratings ARE misleading, but less so than some other manufacturers. After all, they DO say that the ratings are LED lumens. And even though this is somewhat shady, it's perhaps less so that the 280 lumen rating of the SC52 that turns out to be about 215 lumens (with no explanation as to why it is).


----------



## xed888

Had anyone tried a 18350?


----------



## cagenuts

xed888 said:


> Had anyone tried a 18350?



It won't fit into either the A1 (AA battery) or the C1 (CR123A). You'll need move up the Wizard (Pro) to use 18650 cells.


----------



## xed888

Ah bother! Thanks for the reply!


----------



## xed888

This probably comes across as a silly question but is there a specific way of removing the headlamp from the silicon holder?


----------



## cagenuts

If it's anything like the Wizard Pro then because of the grippy surface, it's sometimes easier to remove the end cap before slipping it off the two rubber rings.

You do run the risk of getting thread gel all over the place though so just be careful.

The Zebra Light headlamps are less difficult to remove but that's because of the smooth finish.


----------



## xed888

Thanks. I tried that (removing tailcap first) and it's still a pain to remove. Nearly broke the holder


----------



## awes

Hi,
I've got my Tiara A1 Pro recently and I've noticed a very short and dim blink when I press the button, just before the flashlight turns on. I'm using Eneloop AA and I've set the battery type through the Menu. Do you also have this "feature" on your Tiaras?


----------



## Beacon of Light

pre-flash? I know this was a problem/feature of 47 Quarks back in the day.


----------



## D6859

xed888 said:


> Thanks. I tried that (removing tailcap first) and it's still a pain to remove. Nearly broke the holder



I broke mine the very day I got the headlamp. Fortunately they sent me a spare part. It is really hard to remove and I think impossible without removing the tailcap first.


----------



## D6859

awes said:


> Hi,
> I've got my Tiara A1 Pro recently and I've noticed a very short and dim blink when I press the button, just before the flashlight turns on. I'm using Eneloop AA and I've set the battery type through the Menu. Do you also have this "feature" on your Tiaras?



I tested with 14500: no pre-flash. Changed the battery to Eneloop and selected AA battery type: pre-flash present. Interesting... it seems to depend on the battery type.


----------



## blah9

D6859 said:


> I broke mine the very day I got the headlamp. Fortunately they sent me a spare part. It is really hard to remove and I think impossible without removing the tailcap first.



My Wizard Pro has a crack in the holder from me trying to remove it without taking the tailcap off. I hope it will hold up over time. I don't plan on removing it from the holder anymore at least. Maybe I should ask them for a new one as well then.


----------



## D6859

blah9 said:


> My Wizard Pro has a crack in the holder from me trying to remove it without taking the tailcap off. I hope it will hold up over time. I don't plan on removing it from the holder anymore at least. Maybe I should ask them for a new one as well then.



If it breaks, you should. I hope your retailer is as generous as mine  

I was working (building a sauna onto a trailer ) whole day today with the headlamp on my head. I hit the lamp at least twice quite hard to something and tonight when I was removing the light from the holder I noticed the holder had a tiny crack in it. I took out the tailcap first ofc and the holder didn't break, but one of the O-rings pulled out when peeling the holder off. Fortunately I could find it again. I'm afraid the holder might be the weakest link in this headlamp. I hope it lasts though. I like carrying Tiara as a flashlight in my pocket and it proved to be really good headlamp today (went whole day with a single 14500 in near freezing conditions using 12 and 85 lm modes), so I'm going to be pulling the holder on and off many times in future. 

Maybe I just should order another piece to carry without the headband if they're still on sale when I get my tax refund, but now I started wondering why on earth they are on -50% sale. It's not that old model. :thinking:


----------



## Beacon of Light

D6859 said:


> Maybe I just should order another piece to carry without the headband if they're still on sale when I get my tax refund, but now I started wondering why on earth they are on -50% sale. It's not that old model. :thinking:



Where are you seeing anything 50% off on Armytek's website? I just looked based on your post and nothing is on sale never mind 50% off. Strange...


----------



## ArmyTek

Beacon of Light said:


> Where are you seeing anything 50% off on Armytek's website? I just looked based on your post and nothing is on sale never mind 50% off. Strange...



There is nothing with 50% off on official Armytek website.
But you can find another suitable version for you.


----------



## ArmyTek

blah9 said:


> My Wizard Pro has a crack in the holder from me trying to remove it without taking the tailcap off. I hope it will hold up over time. I don't plan on removing it from the holder anymore at least. Maybe I should ask them for a new one as well then.



Please, write at [email protected]
We will help you with your problem!


----------



## blah9

Wow, thank you! What great service! I will definitely send you an email later today.


----------



## ArmyTek

blah9 said:


> Wow, thank you! What great service! I will definitely send you an email later today.



Thank you for your kind words!


----------



## D6859

Beacon of Light said:


> Where are you seeing anything 50% off on Armytek's website? I just looked based on your post and nothing is on sale never mind 50% off. Strange...



Sorry for misleading you Beacon of Light! When I wrote 'they' I referred to the company whom I oredered the light from.


----------



## Mountain

Just ordered my Tiara A1 today, I love right angle lights. As of now I have a maratec AA but it's round and won't stay put on a moving train. After reading several reviews and doing a little research the A1 seemed like the best bang for your buck. I also have a cheap trustfire z2 on its way to. I'll post up what the Tiara comes with when it show's up.


----------



## Gaffle

As much as I like the amount of power a 18650 can hold, I am really interested in the Tiara. Slap in a 14500 and I'm good to go. I will for sure go with the warmest version Armytek has to offer.


----------



## Labradford

I have a C1. After buying 4 or 5 different Headlamps over the years that were not to my satisfaction, the C1 is here to stay. It's floody beam is perfect, has lots of power( providing one uses a rechargeable battery), simple operation (1 button to rule them all), decent strap that doesn't stretch out. This was my first Armytek purchase. It was a good first impression :twothumbs


----------



## marcham

Just got my Tiara A1 Pro. I've only had it 2 days but it's already my favorite flashlight. It's light, very bright, good flood for walking and close up work and great burn time. 

A few things that would make it perfect :

-snap on lens color filters
-programmable brightness levels, like my predator pro
-an easier way to get it in and out of the headband
-better English in the owner's manual


----------



## kj2

Programmable brightness levels would be nice, as long they use the same way ZL does. Tried programming my Predator Pro numerous times and every time I fail. Got it back in factory settings now and will leave it. Love the light but hate the programming UI.


----------



## Mountain

Got my Tiara A1 the other day. Came with the headband/holder, pocket clip and 2 spare O rings. I've already used up 2 AA's through it. So I just put a order in at lighthound for 2 AW protected 14500's and a Ultrafire WF-139 charger. I think a $10 battery is worth an extra 400 lumens!


----------



## Toolboxkid

Got both on order, waiting 2-4 weeks now


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


----------



## Mountain

Took all 4 weeks to get mine. Definitely looking forward to running those 14500's in it soon.


----------



## StorminMatt

Mountain said:


> Took all 4 weeks to get mine. Definitely looking forward to running those 14500's in it soon.



One thing to keep in mind about this light is that it has to be 'set' to run 14500s. It seems like it will run 14500s just fine without setting it to do so. But it appears that you have to set it to run 14500s in order to get the onboard overdischarge protection to work. Otherwise, it will overdischarge unprotected cells and draw protected cells down to the point that the protection kicks in (which is really not an optimal depth of discharge for a Li-Ion battery).


----------



## skater1on1

I'm looking to sell my Tiara A1 Pro Warm that I bought on 12/10/14 for a 2 day camping trip. Perfect condition and comes with a new Eneloop AA as a bonus! Text me if you're interested  480.779.8307


----------



## d13avo

I am still waiting for a C1 Pro which has been ages. Can't wait to receive it as all the reviews seem good.


Sent from my iPad using Candlepowerforums


----------



## D6859

Mountain said:


> I think a $10 battery is worth an extra 400 lumens!



If I've understood correct, the headlamp puts out 550 lm OTF (out the front, Light output) with AA Eneloop or 14500 li-ion in it. The 950 lm in manual refers to LED lumens (theoretical output if heat loss and such are not regarded). So you don't get extra 400 lm changing the battery. Depending on your battery you might get better runtimes though as mhanlen has tested at the end of a video here.

I'm still considering ordering another Tiara as the company I ordered first one is selling them off for 35 euros (around $40).


----------



## RedForest UK

I get about 300 with eneloop and 600-650 with 14500 OTF.


----------



## Mountain

Your correct about having to choose your battery type but wrong about the lumens output. 1xAA is 550, 1x14500 is 950. Run time is the same. 30min for both. As stated per instruction booklet. Now weather or not those #'s are correct like RedForest UK stated below are a different story. We all know most companies inflate #'s to look good.


----------



## D6859

Mountain said:


> Your correct about having to choose your battery type but wrong about the lumens output. 1xAA is 550, 1x14500 is 950. Run time is the same. 30min for both. As stated per instruction booklet. Now weather or not those #'s are correct like RedForest UK stated below are a different story. We all know most companies inflate #'s to look good.



I coudn't notice such great change in output so I tested with both 14500 and AA. I tried taking pictures but unfortunately coudn't fix the exposure time with my camera. I can upload the picture if anyone is interested. Anyway, even in a small dark room the light doesn't get you blinded on either of the batteries. I think it should be obvious if the lumen output got doubled. Or is it just the floodyness of the headlamp that spreads the light around without you noticing it? 

But hey, let's do some math: For AA, 1.2 V * 1900 mAh = 2.280 Wh. For Li-Ion, 3.7 V * 900 mAh = 3.330 Wh. The ratio Li-Ion/AA = 1.46. So if I'm right, in theory, changing the battery could give you a little less than 1/2 of the AA energy more. With same runtimes it won't double the lumens, though. [/THEORY]


----------



## Trevtrain

D6859 said:


> But hey, let's do some math: For AA, 1.2 V * 1900 mAh = 2.280 Wh. For Li-Ion, 3.7 V * 900 mAh = 3.330 Wh. The ratio Li-Ion/AA = 1.46. So if I'm right, in theory, changing the battery could give you a little less than 1/2 of the AA energy more. With same runtimes it won't double the lumens, though.



i read this and wondered too, doing the same rough mental arithmetic. However, boost circuits are known to be pretty inefficient so I thought that might have to be factored in when running from a 1.2V source. 
Also, does that high setting on the 14500 include a timed step-down? Many vendors quote max setting with runtime figures derived from a level that drops significantly, often after about 30sec-3mins.


----------



## RedForest UK

StorminMatt said:


> One thing to keep in mind about this light is that it has to be 'set' to run 14500s. It seems like it will run 14500s just fine without setting it to do so. But it appears that you have to set it to run 14500s in order to get the onboard overdischarge protection to work. Otherwise, it will overdischarge unprotected cells and draw protected cells down to the point that the protection kicks in (which is really not an optimal depth of discharge for a Li-Ion battery).



That's odd. As far as I can tell this isn't the case for the non-pro version. I never set it to li-ion setting and it runs eneloops fine, but the low voltage warning kicks in at around 3v for 14500s too. If you read the non-pro manual there is also no mention of selecting battery type, unlike in the pro versions manual.


----------



## D6859

Trevtrain said:


> However, boost circuits are known to be pretty inefficient so I thought that might have to be factored in when running from a 1.2V source.



I was thinking about this too but Tiara seems to be very effiecient even when compared to many flashlights. 



Trevtrain said:


> Also, does that high setting on the 14500 include a timed step-down? Many vendors quote max setting with runtime figures derived from a level that drops significantly, often after about 30sec-3mins.



Maybe it was the batteries I was using last night that weren't fresh from charger. In the video I referred to earlier you can see 14500 output gradually decrease. No step-down that I notice. It would be great to see real runtime charts.


----------



## StorminMatt

Trevtrain said:


> Also, does that high setting on the 14500 include a timed step-down? Many vendors quote max setting with runtime figures derived from a level that drops significantly, often after about 30sec-3mins.



According to the instructions, stepdowns are thermal rather than timer based. At least for the Pro.


----------



## dansciurus

Hey guys. I am going to buy the armytek tiara a1 warm. But before I do, can the bezel and lens be removed? I like to mod my lights with glow powder, and dislike sealed bezels. It is kind of the last con on my list. I have researched extensively, but have not found a single post about removinge the lens. If I can remove it, I will buy. If not, i might keep looking. Hoping someone can help me out and maybe see if its glued in or not. Thanks guys!


----------



## Norm

Dansciurs your newly started thead has been deleted as a duplicate of the post above - Norm


----------



## dansciurus

Thanks norm.


----------



## Wiggle

StorminMatt said:


> One thing to keep in mind about this light is that it has to be 'set' to run 14500s. It seems like it will run 14500s just fine without setting it to do so. But it appears that you have to set it to run 14500s in order to get the onboard overdischarge protection to work. Otherwise, it will overdischarge unprotected cells and draw protected cells down to the point that the protection kicks in (which is really not an optimal depth of discharge for a Li-Ion battery).



I like the option to not use an integrated overdischarge protection in a light. I understand the purpose especially with unprotected cells, but I'd prefer just a warning (like a set of blinks every minute) because in an emergency I would rather be able to choke every joule of energy out of a cell even if the cells lifetime is reduced as a result. Damaging a $10 14500 li-ion is not a big deal if it gets you out of a dicey situation. Just preference.

I also question if occasional "bottoming out" of the li-ion down to the protection circuit is a significant problem. Take for example subwoofer's moonlight test he did with the Predator, he completely drained the cells at an extremely low current. This guarantees the most possible energy is extracted from the cell when the protection finally triggers. In his test his cells seemed to suffer no loss in capacity. 

This is a worse case than under high load because if a protection circuit is triggered during high output operation it was likely due, at least in part, to voltage sag and the cell will rebound quickly to a higher resting voltage.


----------



## chadvone

Can head be removed?


----------



## soul347

Just a heads up that the Tiara a1 and c1 version 2 just came out today. Check it out on the armytek website


----------



## Beacon of Light

One noticeable difference is no voltage indicator in v2. Not for me. Actually one of the only reasons I like the pro over the non pro is the voltage indicator. When I first got my non-pro Tiara A1 and C1 I was kinda pissed there was no voltage indicator at all.


----------



## chazz

I just ordered the updated Armytek Tiara A1 v.2 

Wondering if these will fit the longer 840 mAH 14500 cells ?? 

(did some searching but did not see the info anywhere)
If it does I will order a couple while I am waiting for the sloooooow shipping...


----------



## soul347

For those using the Tiara C1, I'm wondering what batteries you guys normally use? Do they work well with rechargeables? I really dislike the idea of buying a bunch of disposable batteries to use with them.


----------



## Labradford

soul347 said:


> For those using the Tiara C1, I'm wondering what batteries you guys normally use? Do they work well with rechargeables?


Mine works well with primaries and rechargeables.


----------



## Beacon of Light

I have successfully used LiFEP04 cells as well as RCR123 cells.


----------



## soul347

Thanks for the reply guys. For the rechargeables, do they have just as good outputs and runtimes? 

Also I'm wondering what are your opinions on the version 2 of the Tiara c1? Should I opt for the second version, or purchase v1.5?


----------



## Wiggle

chazz said:


> I just ordered the updated Armytek Tiara A1 v.2
> 
> Wondering if these will fit the longer 840 mAH 14500 cells ??
> 
> (did some searching but did not see the info anywhere)
> If it does I will order a couple while I am waiting for the sloooooow shipping...




My keeppower 14500 840 mAh fits just fine in my A1 Pro Warm.


----------



## dansciurus

Is the bezel press fit or threaded?


----------



## chazz

Wiggle said:


> My keeppower 14500 840 mAh fits just fine in my A1 Pro Warm.




Cool, thank you much! Look forward to getting mine.


----------



## Beacon of Light

It is a dilemma about v1 versus v2 of the Tiara. I like the addition of a lower firefly mode in v2 but the omission of the voltage indicator in the Pro models make it inferior to the v1 version. Ideally, they should have added the lower firefly mode and kept the voltage indicator. Also not sure why they made non-pro models with an ugly plastic YELLOW on/off switch. It just screams CHEAP!



soul347 said:


> Thanks for the reply guys. For the rechargeables, do they have just as good outputs and runtimes?
> 
> Also I'm wondering what are your opinions on the version 2 of the Tiara c1? Should I opt for the second version, or purchase v1.5?


----------



## MandM

From what I've read... the voltage indicator is still there. (I can verify in a few days... waiting for mine to arrive.)

According to the website and the manual for the Tiara V.2, there's a "Multi-color LED Indication" and a "Low Battery Indication" 

http://www.armytek.com/products/flashlights/headlamps/armytek-tiara-pro-c1.html

(But I'm 100% in agreement about the yellow switches... ug.)



Beacon of Light said:


> It is a dilemma about v1 versus v2 of the Tiara. I like the addition of a lower firefly mode in v2 but the omission of the voltage indicator in the Pro models make it inferior to the v1 version. Ideally, they should have added the lower firefly mode and kept the voltage indicator. Also not sure why they made non-pro models with an ugly plastic YELLOW on/off switch. It just screams CHEAP!


----------



## lightmyfire13

Switches are white I have a prime & tiara v2 ....


----------



## chazz

lightmyfire13 said:


> Switches are white I have a prime & tiara v2 ....



I think the Pro versions have white, and the regular (non pro) versions have yellow, or at least that is how they are pictured on the Armytek page.


----------



## lightmyfire13

Yeah mine are both pro. ....


----------



## soul347

MandM said:


> From what I've read... the voltage indicator is still there. (I can verify in a few days... waiting for mine to arrive.)
> 
> According to the website and the manual for the Tiara V.2, there's a "Multi-color LED Indication" and a "Low Battery Indication"
> 
> http://www.armytek.com/products/flashlights/headlamps/armytek-tiara-pro-c1.html
> 
> (But I'm 100% in agreement about the yellow switches... ug.)



It appears they omitted the ability to indicate the precise voltage of the battery via the main LED. The only way of knowing what the battery state is is through the switch button that blinks different colors. It is apparent that they removed this ability because it is no where to be found in the new manual, but it is in the old manuals.


----------



## Toolboxkid

Ordered a c1 pro v1.5. 
Voltage indicator works great. 
Tint is great ( I ordered warm)
Battery runtime is very poor though. Light turns off when battery reaches about 2.8-3v
Anodizing is not as good as I expected either. The very first time I took the clip off, it pulled the anodizing off with it, it now has shinny marks where the clip was.



Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


----------



## soul347

Toolboxkid said:


> Ordered a c1 pro v1.5.
> Voltage indicator works great.
> Tint is great ( I ordered warm)
> Battery runtime is very poor though. Light turns off when battery reaches about 2.8-3v
> Anodizing is not as good as I expected either. The very first time I took the clip off, it pulled the anodizing off with it, it now has shinny marks where the clip was.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums



Does your v1.5 have a switch that blinks green? I ordered a tiara but not sure what version I have. It didn't come with a manual either


----------



## Toolboxkid

soul347 said:


> Does your v1.5 have a switch that blinks green? I ordered a tiara but not sure what version I have. It didn't come with a manual either



No, my switch does not light up. From my understanding, only the wizard v1.5 pros light up, none of the tiara series.


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


----------



## MojaveMoon07

*Re: I made some runtime graphs for Max using different NiMH cells*



RedForest UK said:


> Right, so my Tiara (non-pro) warm version finally arrived and I did some quick output and current measurements.
> 
> These are the measurements I got:
> 
> Sanyo eneloop (unused but not freshly charged):
> 
> Firefly1: too low to measure
> Main 1: 6 lumens -- 0.06a
> Main 2: 55 lumens -- 0.54a
> Main 3: 145 lumens -- 1.77a
> Main 4: 280 lumens -- 3.47a
> 
> [...]




The hotspot is 70degrees, and we have *RedForest UK*'s lumen measurements for a Sanyo eneloop.

What I am wondering is what the apparent brightness will be. I have a Fenix E12, and its focused hotspot at medium mode of around 50 lumens is too bright for reading something about two feet away.

I'm hoping that because of the 70degree hotspot angle that this Tiara on *Main 2* will not be too bright for reading or examing something about two feet away. In other words, though *RedForest UK* made a measurement of 55 lumens for main 2, I'm hoping that because of the wide beam angle that the brightness will seem softer than 55 lumens by the time it lands a few feet away.

I had hoped that the Zebralight H52 series would serve my requirements, but a H52f bought from Zebralight and a H52w bought from another retailer both had unmistakeable horrible green tints. I'm ready to give up on Zebralight.


----------



## chazz

Got my new Tiara A1 v.2 warm, regular version (NON pro). 

For those curious about the button colors, it is white, _not_ yellow like in the web page pictures. 

Just FWIW, if I had this to do over again I would wait until a reputable dealer in the USA (where I live) had the light in stock rather than ordering from the Armytek web page directly. For one, their site says free shipping over $50, but that is no longer true, it is now actually free shipping over $95 (but the web page is not updated yet, at least as of right now) and that free shipping is like 2-4 weeks from china so there is that. So I paid $10 shipping to get the light. Now, the light is defective, (my luck...) so I am having to ship it to Armytek Canada which cost me $20+, so now I am up to $30 total in shipping. (I think they are going to cover shipping of the replacement back to me, I hope...) 

The upside is I really liked that light for the 5-10 minutes that it worked, LOL. The tint was great, the UI is good, pretty fast to get used to and I think I will like it better than my Zebralight (I know to each their own). One thing I really like about the UI is, since it has memory, if you turn the light off in a firefly mode, there is no chance of blasting yourself with 500+ lumens (ZL owners will know what I am talking about) when you first turn the light on, unless you hold the button down and cycle through, or turn it on and then do a quick double click to get max. So for me, it will be nice to use, since I use the firefly/moonlight modes a lot on my lights.

Hopefully everyone else has good luck with their new v.2 lights.


----------



## AFearlessBirdOfParadise

Got my new Tiara A1 V.1 warm, regular version (Non pro) today.

Charging up the 14500 right now, first impression is the silicone holder is on SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO tight.

So tight that I yanked it hard enough to rip it... so whoops... I mean I intend to see how it is EDC wise with the clip anyway but still 

Do the Zebralight GITD holders work on this? I don't know if the body diameter is the same.


----------



## chazz

AFearlessBirdOfParadise said:


> Got my new Tiara A1 V.1 warm, regular version (Non pro) today.
> 
> Charging up the 14500 right now, first impression is the silicone holder is on SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO tight.
> 
> So tight that I yanked it hard enough to rip it... so whoops... I mean I intend to see how it is EDC wise with the clip anyway but still
> 
> Do the Zebralight GITD holders work on this? I don't know if the body diameter is the same.



LOL, I laugh because I did the same thing, ripped the strap loop on the holder. The strap loops are quite a bit weaker than the loops for the actual light, so live and learn, but to anyone else I would be real careful trying to remove it, whatever you do don't pull on the strap loop- only use the actual loops that are around the light to pull on. You will know what I am talking about when you see it. I was not even intentionally pulling on that part but my grip slipped and my finger snagged the strap loop on the way. It would have been humorous at the time, had I not been wondering how much that was going to cost. 

The body size is small (1xaa) and the tailcap looks like it is probably the same for all of them up to 18650, so it is quite large in diameter. If you are planing on putting this in and out of the headlight strap often, you might look for a different setup, as the factory one is not ideal for this. Hopefully they will improve on this. Anyone that has issues with this should send them some feedback, maybe they will pay attention. 

The other slight annoyance was having to thread the head strap around in the different buckles, not a huge deal, but I have never purchased a headlight before where I had to do this, and I have had a few. 

I do not know if the ZL mount will work but I ordered one, and will find out when I get it and my replacement light. Hopefully it will not be too long.


----------



## AFearlessBirdOfParadise

chazz said:


> LOL, I laugh because I did the same thing, ripped the strap loop on the holder. The strap loops are quite a bit weaker than the loops for the actual light, so live and learn, but to anyone else I would be real careful trying to remove it, whatever you do don't pull on the strap loop- only use the actual loops that are around the light to pull on. You will know what I am talking about when you see it. I was not even intentionally pulling on that part but my grip slipped and my finger snagged the strap loop on the way. It would have been humorous at the time, had I not been wondering how much that was going to cost.
> 
> The body size is small (1xaa) and the tailcap looks like it is probably the same for all of them up to 18650, so it is quite large in diameter. If you are planing on putting this in and out of the headlight strap often, you might look for a different setup, as the factory one is not ideal for this. Hopefully they will improve on this. Anyone that has issues with this should send them some feedback, maybe they will pay attention.
> 
> The other slight annoyance was having to thread the head strap around in the different buckles, not a huge deal, but I have never purchased a headlight before where I had to do this, and I have had a few.
> 
> I do not know if the ZL mount will work but I ordered one, and will find out when I get it and my replacement light. Hopefully it will not be too long.



Well the thing is the anodizing gives it a feel of a nails on a chalkboard so when I was going for the loops I was like cringing at the feel it had against my fingernails. It was just weirdly unpleasant. 

Ultimately I removed the cap but even then it was crazy tight and I was like... am I going to rip/slice the orings on the screw threads? I didn't, although it did try to take the outermost oring with it. $3 replacement via the Armytek website isn't horrible, but the shipping is. I sent them an email after I read a couple of replies in this thread, so maybe they'll give me a second shot for free.

Very preliminary observations, doesn't like one of my duraloops, I'm gonna see if it just doesn't like half charged NIMHs, cause I freaked out and thought it broke on me like yours did.

Popped in another NIMH that worked in the first place and it worked. 

Popped in the 14500 and it is acting weird... Hold down to go thru modes from off and I get MASSIVE preflash, and then off, MASSIVE preflash then off, then it cycles the modes properly. It's very bright on max with the 14500 though. 

Also if you like lights to look pristine then my god don't use the clip. There's like three contact points between the clip and the flashlight, and the round part that attaches to the body is tight and will leave marks when you put it on and take it off.


----------



## D6859

AFearlessBirdOfParadise said:


> Ultimately I removed the cap but even then it was crazy tight and I was like... am I going to rip/slice the orings on the screw threads? I didn't, although it did try to take the outermost oring with it. $3 replacement via the Armytek website isn't horrible, but the shipping is. I sent them an email after I read a couple of replies in this thread, so maybe they'll give me a second shot for free.
> 
> Also if you like lights to look pristine then my god don't use the clip. There's like three contact points between the clip and the flashlight, and the round part that attaches to the body is tight and will leave marks when you put it on and take it off.



I broke my strap loop too. I thought the holder would be more flexible when pulling it. Fortunately, I got replacement for free from my dealer. But even when I try to be careful the holders tries to take the orings with it. 

The clip has left its mark on the body already. Have you noticed the anodizing makes some weird smoky smell when the clip slaps around the body? Or maybe I just have a cancer in my brain.


----------



## nightowlgear

Press Fit


----------



## dansciurus

nightowlgear said:


> Press Fit



Thank you sir.


----------



## nightowlgear

chadvone said:


> Can head be removed?



They can, however removing the head doesn't really allow access to the light/module inside. The button and bezel are press fit and removing the module seems to be something not easily done.


----------



## dansciurus

Cool. Main reason to open was to add glow in the dark to the emitter board.


----------



## AFearlessBirdOfParadise

D6859 said:


> I broke my strap loop too. I thought the holder would be more flexible when pulling it. Fortunately, I got replacement for free from my dealer. But even when I try to be careful the holders tries to take the orings with it.
> 
> The clip has left its mark on the body already. Have you noticed the anodizing makes some weird smoky smell when the clip slaps around the body? Or maybe I just have a cancer in my brain.



Oh that's where the smell is coming from? I thought I was killing the driver with my li-on, or I had a short somewhere, but still working and overall I'm more positive than negative. Having back and forth email with Armytek CS right now, will see how that goes, maybe I should have gone thru the dealer first.


----------



## Toolboxkid

D6859 said:


> I broke my strap loop too. I thought the holder would be more flexible when pulling it. Fortunately, I got replacement for free from my dealer. But even when I try to be careful the holders tries to take the orings with it.
> 
> The clip has left its mark on the body already. Have you noticed the anodizing makes some weird smoky smell when the clip slaps around the body? Or maybe I just have a cancer in my brain.



Yes I smelled that as well. The first time I pulled the clip off and took a good bit of ano with it, smelled like it was on fire. At least I wasn't the only one. Thought these were supposed to have top notch anodizing? Doesn't seem like it.


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


----------



## AFearlessBirdOfParadise

So anyone following my whole, I just got a Tiara A1 and the silicone holder was crazy tight and I ripped it almost immediately after I got it situation, after a couple of emails, and a picture request of said broken holder Armytek said they are going to send me a new one after CNY, so props to them and their CS.


----------



## blah9

They do seem to have nice customer service. I ripped my Wizard Pro holder a little bit, and they offered to replace mine as well. I eventually decided though that mine would hold up well enough anyway, so I didn't take them up on their offer (it's only a small crack in mine and I don't plan on taking it out of the holder ever again).


----------



## marcham

I've been afraid of removing mine from the holder due to the same reasons. Bit of a disappointment, seems like a redesign is in order.


----------



## D6859

As it seems so many have broken their holder and contaced Armytek, I hope they will come up with a holder that the light is easier to get out of. In the meantime, I could go consult my brother and ask if we have some material for a DIY solution.


----------



## soul347

I have transferred my armytek wizard pro out of the holder various times without even a slight sign of damage. My tiara however is far too snug and difficult to remove, that I could see why people have broken theirs. I also find it way to stiff so it is hard to rotate up and down to change the angle, but my wizard pro moves very easily, which is a good thing.


----------



## darwin

I got a Tiara C1 Pro warm for myself for Christmas and have been using it since whenever I need a right angle light. The lamp itself is neat. Compact and useful. I'll get right to the observations:


Really like the low power modes, they last for days or longer on a charge and are quite nice without blinding you. Firefly 1 and 2 are even useful as a night light.
High power modes - not so much. Sucks the 16340 dry and overheats on the two highest settings. Perhaps 15 minute runtime. As a comparison, a HDS Ra 170T on full brightness doesn't think twice about this test and barely gets warm to the touch. For the feature list and to keep us happy, they had to add the top two brightness settings, but they're almost useless other than for very short periods.
The flood and diffused beam is nice for walking around in the dark.
The clip... well, no nice way to put this: it sucks. flimsy and doesn't hold the light very well. Technically, it does the job, but feels like a cut corner and something added as a line item for the "package contents" list and afterthought.
headband/silicone mount: Before purchasing, I heard about a lot of people ripping the mount. Yes, it's tight, but with a bit of care, it has not ripped and doesn't feel like it will. That said, I rarely, if ever, use the head mount.
I've used the stock clip and a wide (2") ranger band to attach the light to a Tactical Tailor attachment kit "fob" with the MALICE clip removed. I've placed the female clips low on my backpack straps. This works well for walking around, keeps the light from bobbing and is easy to unclip/move to a different bag when needed. ( http://www.tacticaltailor.com/removableoperatorpackattachmentkit.aspx )
UI is interesting. I generally operate the light in two ways:
press and hold to bring the brightness up to a useful level for the situation.
press and release to turn it on to the previous setting.
very rarely use any of the strobe features - so infrequently that I had to RTFM again.

Thermal protection mode is rather annoying. Good that it has it - bad that it NEEDS it.
Did I mention that this light gets very hot to the touch on the two highest output modes?
The magnet in the base is a nice touch. I find it useful when using the light "hands free"
I do wish there was a way to mount a color filter/gel to it. Red or Blue would be nice. I've tried making a "plug" with Instamorph plastic but based on the bezel design, it falls out easily.
It does seem to be water tight and hasn't leaked yet. So far, I'd still consider it water resistant

Overall I like the headlamp and have found it quite useful. It's good for a $50-$70 light and seems to have comparable feature sets to lights double the price. However, it pales in comparison to the rock solid Ra lights*. Different beasts though, I wish Henry would make a right angle light.

Would I recommend the Tiara C1? Yes.
Could you do better? Yes, but you could also do much worse .

Other lights I'd consider: 

Zebralight (my first choice but couldn't find one in stock at any vendors in the US)
Maratac right angle- But I'm intrenched in 16340/ 123 as a form factor. The AAA seems TINY, but would require keeping them around.


* I keep comparing these because they're my go-to lights and have been since I got the first one. The main flaw with the Ra Lights is that LED technology has improved immensely since I got mine and they just won't die. And yes, I still call them Ra.


----------



## chazz

marcham said:


> I've been afraid of removing mine from the holder due to the same reasons. Bit of a disappointment, seems like a redesign is in order.



Agreed, it needs to be a much more durable material, that will stretch *a lot* without breaking, also the sharp corners on the strap loops seem to be an easy place for a tear/break to start, so round all those corners... 

They really should have downsized the battery tube end for the AA version, the way it is, the end is pretty large (compared to body) to try and get the loops over. But I am guessing they will redesign the holder before the light. I might actually prefer a holder setup like the Fenix HL50 or something at least with the current shape of light. Would be more apt to mark up the light body, but at least you would be able to remove/replace it more easily.

I got a Zebralight holder to try that seems pretty tuff for how thin it is, but now I do not have the Tiara to try it on, it will probably be a few more weeks before I get a replacement light.


----------



## D6859

Anyone else thinks the head band is too short? I have to wear a hat often when using the headlamp outside. I have the headband set to max length but it still often causes me headache if I wear it with a hat under it. I either have to lift the headlamp on my forehead or the headband on my occipital (see my avatar) to ease the pressure. I wish it had 2-3 cm extra.


----------



## blah9

Yeah it's a little short for me. Luckily I seem to be okay and not get a headache, but it's pretty close on my Wizard Pro.


----------



## Gaffle

I'm trying to make up my mind. I keep looking at the A1 with a good size factor, plus I would roll with a 14500, but I also have a ton of Amazon (which I believe are Eneloop) AAs around. The max mode isn't something that I would use often, I can only really think about my one scenario with a max mode which is fishing early in the morning. Besides that, I don't need 300 lumens to do stuff around the house. My only hitch is size compared to the Wizard. A 18650 just gives you so much more runtime. Do I go with a comfortable form, or longer runtime? I think about when I am reading in bed at night, do I really want a Wizard chillin on my noggin? Stupid decisions....maybe I get the A1 and give it to my daughter at some point and then buy a Wizard.


----------



## d13avo

I have the Tiara C1 Pro (warm) and its a really nice light with a good tint. The only downside is I do use it on max quite often and the run time isn't great.


Sent from my iPad using Candlepowerforums


----------



## blah9

Gaffle said:


> I'm trying to make up my mind. I keep looking at the A1 with a good size factor, plus I would roll with a 14500, but I also have a ton of Amazon (which I believe are Eneloop) AAs around. The max mode isn't something that I would use often, I can only really think about my one scenario with a max mode which is fishing early in the morning. Besides that, I don't need 300 lumens to do stuff around the house. My only hitch is size compared to the Wizard. A 18650 just gives you so much more runtime. Do I go with a comfortable form, or longer runtime? I think about when I am reading in bed at night, do I really want a Wizard chillin on my noggin? Stupid decisions....maybe I get the A1 and give it to my daughter at some point and then buy a Wizard.



Honestly, I really don't mind having the Wizard on my head for extended periods of time. You might have a different tolerance than I do, but I don't find it to be very uncomfortable.


----------



## Wiggle

I decided to go Tiara so that I could rely on AAs and liked the smaller size. I don't plan on using high outputs very often so the lesser energy of the 14500/AA is not a major drawback.


----------



## Gaffle

I don't know if the specifications changed with v2 but it says the C1 can take a 18350. Has anyone tried this battery? Lighthound is sold out of most AW products, but you can get a IMR 18350 no problem. I have no idea if the runtime of a 18350 in the C1 would be less/same/more compared to the 840mAh of a 14500 in the A1. I want more bang for the buck with runtime, but I have decided to go with the smaller form factor of the C1/A1 over the Wizard.


----------



## D6859

blah9 said:


> Yeah it's a little short for me. Luckily I seem to be okay and not get a headache, but it's pretty close on my Wizard Pro.



I wore it 4 days around my hard hat at a construction site in rain and snow. The headband got strethched and was longer when it dried. I now have the extra 2-3 cm I wished  Wizard Pro fortunately has another over-the-head band that helps balancing the weight.


----------



## lilypirogova

Can I buy this online using paypal as a payment method?


----------



## D6859

lilypirogova said:


> Can I buy this online using paypal as a payment method?



It seems so. You can find the headlamps in eBay too.


----------



## Beacon of Light

So has it been confirmed you can use a 18350 in a Tiara C1 (Pro only?)? Would it only be safe in the v2 Tiara C1 or would v1 accept it safely?


----------



## AFearlessBirdOfParadise

So got a shipping notice the other day my replacement holder is on it's way, yay.


----------



## Gaffle

Beacon of Light said:


> So has it been confirmed you can use a 18350 in a Tiara C1 (Pro only?)? Would it only be safe in the v2 Tiara C1 or would v1 accept it safely?



Spoke with Sandra from Armytek via email. She confirmed that a 18350 will fit in the v2 C1 series. I did not specify pro or non-pro version so its safe to assume that a 18350 will fit in both. The difference between the 2 lights would only be electronics and not size, at least from a manufacturing standpoint. None of my questions were directed toward the v1/v1.5 C1 lights. Someone (I believe in this thread) said a 18350 did not fit in the earlier versions. I don't know of anyone actually tried this or if it was hearsay.

I then went to HKJs site to compare a 900mAh 18350 vs a 840mAh 14500. Found out the runtime of these are almost the same. That being said, its nice to know you can get the same runtime from the C1, with a slightly smaller form factor, as you do with the A1 when running rechargeables. I have read about the dismal runtimes of the C1 on a 16340, much less than the 14500 at a higher mAh. 

I still ended up going with the A1. I only have 2 IMR 16340s for my HDS Clicky, but I have quite a few nimhs hanging around, and I have a pair of KeepPower 14500s enroute. As far as I can tell, my A1 is in the US with USPS. I am excited about this combo of light and batteries.


----------



## D6859

Anyone know the runtimes for v.1 with 14500 in it? 

I tried to estimate the runtime measuring the current. The voltage was 3.78 V under no load (the inbuilt meter gave me 3.5 V) when I started and I got
Firefly 1: 1.47 mA
Firefly 2: 4.90 mA
Low: 17.1 mA
Medium: 890 mA 
High: N/A
Turbo: N/A

I couldn't measure the current on high or turbo since the multimeter seems to have some resistance in it and the mode switched back to medium. I measured 3.77 V on the batter after the testing. 

I wonder if these measurements are accurate at all. Using 850 mAh battery Medium mode would give a runtime of only 1h. Yet the headlamp should run 3 hours with a single 2000 mAh Eneloop. Maybe the internal resistance of the multimeter caused the headlamp to take more current than it needed.


----------



## D6859

Inspired by the Zebralight moonlight mode test thread in LED Flashlights section of the forums, I've decided to do a 7lm/9d test on my Wizard pro and a 2lm/200h test on my Tiara A1. Anyone interested doing it at the same time with me? Or anyone interested at all about the test? I will start own thread for the tests if you're interested. 

It would be more interesting to do the 0,5lm/100d and 0,1lm/90d tests but I'm afraid I'm going to need both of my headlamps during the summer.


----------



## divestoclimb

I'm interested in battery life tests at medium and low brightnesses. I just ordered a Tiara A1 (warm) and I intend to use it most at 9 lm and a bit at 65 lm for mountaineering and SAR. Since I can't normally trust headlamp manufacturers to state a usable burn time for a given lighting level it would be great to get a better estimate.

I'll report my own test results for these brightnesses after my headlamp arrives. Run time tests at max brightness are interesting, but not super useful for backcountry operations if I get at most a couple hours of use at that level. With any headlamp I generally want to know the max brightness I can keep it on to get almost a full night's use out of it, and what the performance characteristics of the headlamp are at that level based on its beam pattern.

I also spent a lot of time going back and forth over whether I wanted a powerful spot beam like the ZL HL52 or a wider beam like this one. I'll be spending the next couple weeks anxiously waiting to try it out! I'll also try to get some lux measurements to make comparisons easier.


----------



## D6859

divestoclimb said:


> I'm interested in battery life tests at medium and low brightnesses. I just ordered a Tiara A1 (warm) and I intend to use it most at 9 lm and a bit at 65 lm for mountaineering and SAR. Since I can't normally trust headlamp manufacturers to state a usable burn time for a given lighting level it would be great to get a better estimate.



I found this post by mhanlen. I think you're referring to 11 lm and 80 lm modes (seem to be different in v1 and v2). In v1 the corresponding runtimes for the modes are 4h 10min and 1h 31min with 14500 and 3h 20min and 1h 17min with NiMH. 

I may be able to start the 200h test next Monday.


----------



## divestoclimb

Yeah the modes may be different between v1 and v2, also brightness is slightly different between the CW and NW versions. I'll definitely check those out.


----------



## desmobob

D6859 said:


> Inspired by the Zebralight moonlight mode test thread in LED Flashlights section of the forums, I've decided to do a 7lm/9d test on my Wizard pro and a 2lm/200h test on my Tiara A1. Anyone interested doing it at the same time with me? Or anyone interested at all about the test? I will start own thread for the tests if you're interested.
> 
> It would be more interesting to do the 0,5lm/100d and 0,1lm/90d tests but I'm afraid I'm going to need both of my headlamps during the summer.



I have a new Tiara C1 Pro and a Wizard Pro is en route from China as I type. I use XTAR 18350s in my Tiara and will use NCR18650B 3400mAh in my Wizard. I like the Tiara very much and am anxious for the Wizard to arrive so I can compare it to my Zebralight H600w MkII.

I think it would be interesting to do the moonlight mode test comparing the Tiara A1 to the C1. Let me know when you want to start!

Take it easy,
Bob


----------



## D6859

desmobob said:


> I think it would be interesting to do the moonlight mode test comparing the Tiara A1 to the C1. Let me know when you want to start!



It would be nice to compare them side by side! Unfortunately I don't own C1. Can somebody lend me some money for a good cause?

I'll be able to start the test on Monday the 11th around 7.00 pm UTC. I'm travelling now so I don't want to take chances the headlamp turns off in my backpack. 

I think I should use some light close to 2 lm with fresh battery in it as a reference. I wonder if I own one. Also, I should try different options for taking the photos before I start. I can do the testing during the day and if I succeed, I'll start a new thread at the mentioned time.


----------



## D6859

D6859 said:


> I'll be able to start the test on Monday the 11th around 7.00 pm UTC. I'm travelling now so I don't want to take chances the headlamp turns off in my backpack.



Sorry, I forgot this yesterday. I'm afraid I don't have time to do this test this week either.


----------



## reppans

FWIW, I have Prime A1 Pro Warm, which should be the same driver as the Tiara, and find its specs quite badly exaggerated (2000 mah Eneloop)... or I have a particularly inefficient and/or faulty sample:

- 0.15lm/90day mode; I get 0.02 lms in my lightbox and a 12.5ma tailcap draw (~7 days)

- 1.5lm/200hr mode; I get 0.4 lms and a 20.5ma tailcap draw (~100 hrs)

- 10lm/25hr mode: I get 6 lms and ~16 hrs, or about the same as my N219 D25A. My Neutron V2, SC52 and S15 nearly doubled that runtime. All lights are in the 5.5-8 lms range (despite spec claims), and were run side-by-side.


----------



## D6859

reppans said:


> FWIW, I have Prime A1 Pro Warm, which should be the same driver as the Tiara, and find its specs quite badly exaggerated (2000 mah Eneloop)... or I have a particularly inefficient and/or faulty sample:
> - 0.15lm/90day mode; I get 0.02 lms in my lightbox and a 12.5ma tailcap draw (~7 days)
> - 1.5lm/200hr mode; I get 0.4 lms and a 20.5ma tailcap draw (~100 hrs)
> - 10lm/25hr mode: I get 6 lms and ~16 hrs, or about the same as my N219 D25A. My Neutron V2, SC52 and S15 nearly doubled that runtime. All lights are in the 5.5-8 lms range (despite spec claims), and were run side-by-side.



I tried to measure the current in my headlamp, but I came into conclusion that the DMM interfered with the actual current draw needed. Have you tried to run the flashlight e.g on 10 lm level and see if it runs 20+ hours?


----------



## reppans

D6859 said:


> I tried to measure the current in my headlamp, but I came into conclusion that the DMM interfered with the actual current draw needed. Have you tried to run the flashlight e.g on 10 lm level and see if it runs 20+ hours?



Yes, that was my last bullet point above.

I am comfortable with the DMM readings, they triangulate well with the actual runtimes I got on several other moonlight mode lights (which are posted in that ZL runtime thread above).


----------



## D6859

reppans said:


> Yes, that was my last bullet point above.



Oh, ofc. I thought you got that 16 hours estimate based on tailcap current. 

Let's see if I remember to turn on my headlamp when I get back home tomorrow and see if it runs more than 16 hours. Unfortunately I don't have a lightbox.


----------



## divestoclimb

My A1 arrived in the mail late last week. Initial thoughts for trail use:


it's noticeably bigger than AAA headlamps made by Princeton Tec, Black Diamond, Petzl in its longest dimension, and with the mount design takes up about the same amount of space in the other two dimensions.





weight of light, mount, strap, and an Eneloop is 103 grams. Armytek's weight specification of 48 g must be excluding the mount and strap as well as the battery. This makes the headlamp slightly heavier than my Black Diamond Cosmo, which weighs 92g with 3x AAA Eneloops, although it makes up for it in weight savings of spare batteries. 
I got to take a trail walk after dusk one evening with it and the beam is quite impressive. Main1 level is acceptable for trail use, and I found all I needed to do most of the time was bump it up to Main2 for a couple seconds to get a look reasonably further ahead. Main3 felt ridiculously bright for lighting up large sections of the route ahead, and at Max I can see _everything_. The spill is quite nice, I feel like I have a better ability to pick out details with it. Use on a glacier or a talus/scree field is going to be fun! 
No complaints about switch operation, at least with bare hands. It won't turn on easily in a backpack even without using the manual lockout. That is one of my biggest peeves with Black Diamond's lights. 
I got a glimpse of myself in a mirror wearing the thing. I look like a Borg drone! Definitely not a fashion statement, but if it's dark out no one will notice right? 
I started a burn test on Main1 this morning. If it lasts through this evening, I'll know I can let it run overnight without it dying and can plan a longer test later in the week.


----------



## D6859

divestoclimb said:


> I started a burn test on Main1 this morning. If it lasts through this evening, I'll know I can let it run overnight without it dying and can plan a longer test later in the week.



Hi divestoclimb and welcome to the forums!

I turned my Tiara A1 on at Main1 yesterday around 11pm UTC. It has run over 22 hours now and I think I'm starting to notice decline in output. Yet, I'm still able to move around in the dark house using the light as well as to cycle through all the modes including turbo. I am using a 2000 mAh Eneloop that I charged right before I started the test. Based on this experience I can say for sure that it runs at least for 20 hours before any notable difference from the initial output. 

@reppans: Are you sure your battery or flashlight isn't defected?

edit: I got bored so I stopped the test running the light on turbo for 1 min 30 sec after which the output seemed to be same as on Main3. After that the internal voltage meter gave me only 2 blinks (0.2 V, really?). I put the battery into charger which showed the voltage under no load was still 1.21 V. Also, my headlamp is V1, not V2.


----------



## reppans

Guess my sample is defective... ran it twice. What ma do you get on your ff1 and ff2 tailcap measurements? My battery meter doesn't work either... or rather it only changes after the light has already stepped down (NiMh).

Edit.... guess we may be apples to oranges... I have a Warm Prime V2 Pro.


----------



## divestoclimb

Seeing some scary runtime numbers like mhanlen's 4 hours got me worried, but I'm approaching 8.5 hours on my test so that's a relief. It'll make it through one night!

Now I want to make sure I know how many nights the battery will last so I know how many cells to pack on longer trips, or if I should consider 14500s.


----------



## D6859

divestoclimb said:


> Seeing some scary runtime numbers like mhanlen's 4 hours got me worried, but I'm approaching 8.5 hours on my test so that's a relief. It'll make it through one night!
> 
> Now I want to make sure I know how many nights the battery will last so I know how many cells to pack on longer trips, or if I should consider 14500s.



Worry not! That 4h10min by mhanlen was for Main2. I think he didn't have time to wait that 20+ hours


----------



## garbman

Hi there
i see that there are two Tiara's A1 PRO XML out here. 
The "old" one has 550 lumens output and the "new" one V2, that it has 420 of the led lumens.
is it the same model or there are more differences that I can't see.
am I missing something?
thanks


----------



## D6859

garbman said:


> Hi there
> i see that there are two Tiara's A1 PRO XML out here.
> The "old" one has 550 lumens output and the "new" one V2, that it has 420 of the led lumens.
> is it the same model or there are more differences that I can't see.



There are some other differences too. IIRC v2 doesn't have battery voltage meter. V2 is 13 g lighter (reference: manual) and it has a anyard attachment hole. The manual of v2 doesn't describe how to turn on the beacon or strobe so I'm not sure if they're gone with the voltage meter too. Output seems to be lower with same runtimes in v2 but this may be due to a better calibration of measuring equipment.


----------



## Woods Walker

Not sure I am seeing any real advantage in the pro version for the 1XAA. Is the headband still too tight etc? Been looking for a headlamp with a firefly mode and drop resistant and the normal version has it but my tolerance for buggy UIs etc is low.


----------



## Woods Walker

Beacon of Light said:


> Well, I finally received a response from Armytek regarding the discrepancy of the firefly modes on my C1 Pro compared to other C1 Pros on here and against my own A1 Pro. The response I received is confusing at best. I will post here to see if anyone can make sense of it.
> 
> _I am really sorry for this delay in communication. I haven't had the information till now.
> 
> So, firefly modes of the current version can be differ from each other. But this mode is in the flashlight and allows a user to have a little light.
> It happens due to the organization of very bright modes in the flashlight._



I was reading through this thread. What the heck does that cryptic mumbo jumbo mean? Was anyone ever able to find a rosetta stone or enigma machine to uncode that?


----------



## Taz80

I believe it means your going to get a firefly mode but it might not be the same as someone else's firefly mode or the manufactures specs. I read somewhere that it can be difficult to get consistent outputs on very low light levels. So you are going to get a little light, they are just not sure how little.:shrug:


----------



## Woods Walker

Taz80 said:


> I believe it means your going to get a firefly mode but it might not be the same as someone else's firefly mode or the manufactures specs. I read somewhere that it can be difficult to get consistent outputs on very low light levels. So you are going to get a little light, they are just not sure how little.:shrug:



All my Quarks seem to have the same sub lumen brightness. How hard can it be?


----------



## Gaffle

garbman said:


> Hi there
> i see that there are two Tiara's A1 PRO XML out here.
> The "old" one has 550 lumens output and the "new" one V2, that it has 420 of the led lumens.
> is it the same model or there are more differences that I can't see.
> am I missing something?
> thanks



I read somewhere that the older version was lumens at the LED. New version is more of a OTF rating.


----------



## reppans

Woods Walker said:


> All my Quarks seem to have the same sub lumen brightness. How hard can it be?



I collect sub-lumen lights and this appears to be very difficult to achieve based on how far off spec many of my sub-lumen lights are - and my Armytek Prime Pro A1 is hugely off (although in my favor for once ). I don't claim to be an expert, but I'm beginning to believe companies like FourSevens and ThruNite actually calibrate their sub-lumen modes to individual emitter Vf efficiency, similar to what HDS does, and that's how they achieve consistent sub-lumen outputs, sample to sample. I believe others just use a fixed sub-lumen current which has more output volatility, sample to sample, depending upon emitter Vf efficiency.


----------



## Woods Walker

reppans said:


> I collect sub-lumen lights and this appears to be very difficult to achieve based on how far off spec many of my sub-lumen lights are - and my Armytek Prime Pro A1 is hugely off (although in my favor for once ). I don't claim to be an expert, but I'm beginning to believe companies like FourSevens and ThruNite actually calibrate their sub-lumen modes to individual emitter Vf efficiency, similar to what HDS does, and that's how they achieve consistent sub-lumen outputs, sample to sample. I believe others just use a fixed sub-lumen current which has more output volatility, sample to sample, depending upon emitter Vf efficiency.



I will add that to the other reasons why I often pack 4/7 lights.  To be honest with me it's actually not all that important. For a headlamp I prefer the following.

1. Reliability is king. How many lights just go  for no reason or are so buggy as to be not worth buying given other options.
2. Water/weather proof.
3. Mode spacing with a good usable long running medium and power saving low.
4. Durability which isn't the same as reliability or weatherproofing.

If a firefly is bit bright that's not so important to me but dang....It's gotta work as intended.


----------



## reppans

Woods Walker said:


> I will add that to the other reasons why I often pack 4/7 lights.  To be honest with me it's actually not all that important.
> 
> If a firefly is bit bright that's not so important to me but dang....It's gotta work as intended.



Hehe, I'm a low lumen mode spacing snob  - an efficient and "bright" 0.3-0.5 lm moonlight, along with a good 3-5 lm low, are my top priorities and what I use 90+% of the time. Even coughed up for an HDS (despite disliking the CR123 platform) to ensure that spacing after so many disappointments with bad low lumen specs from various manufacturers.


----------



## Woods Walker

reppans said:


> Hehe, I'm a low lumen mode spacing snob  - an efficient and "bright" 0.3-0.5 lm moonlight, along with a good 3-5 lm low, are my top priorities and what I use 90+% of the time. Even coughed up for an HDS (despite disliking the CR123 platform) to ensure that spacing after so many disappointments with bad low lumen specs from various manufacturers.



No question if a company brags about firefly technology or whatever they had better deliver. You're 100% right.


----------



## divestoclimb

I just got back from a 2-day trip on Mt Baker where I was one of the climbing guides. Finally I've put this headlamp to its intended use.

Impressions from the field:

The warm color really stands out since most climbers use cool LED headlamps, but I liked it. It just felt less like hiking in the dark.

I did most of my glacier travel on Main2 because night is so short this time of year. Main1 is plenty for most of the time, but at the head of the rope team I wanted more light.

I occasionally would use Main3 or Super to help scout the route ahead and the light does a decent job at that, illuminating snow slopes hundreds of feet away, but its beam pattern can't throw that well for the power level. The lead guide had a headlamp with a high-power spot beam that worked better. I think this light was still a good choice since it's optimal for what I use it for 90% of the time (walking) and at least acceptable for routefinding.

On the day of the climb I was only carrying one spare AA Eneloop battery with me. Although my GPS normally has no trouble lasting a whole day on a set of batteries, this time it died after ~9 hours. I was able to use the headlamp battery plus the spare to get it running again; score one for interchangeables!


----------



## blah9

That sounds like a blast! Thank you for sharing. And I'm glad the headlamp worked out pretty well for you.


----------



## zr2yz125

I received my Tiara A1 v2 warm as a gift to replace the Petzl I've used for 10 years. I was so excited to get it as a gift, only to find that it didn't work out of the box. On max power mode it flickers randomly, continually changing intensity. All of the other modes function correctly. 

I contacted their support department and after a few days I received an email from Sandra. I received a boiler plate style email asking me questions that I had already given answers to in my original email. She asked that I take a video of the flashlight malfunctioning and show me removing the battery from the tiara and inserting it into another flashlight to prove the battery works?!? As if I am going to lie about trying multiple different fully charged Eneloops off my LaCrosse BC1000. Is this the level of service I should expect from armytek?

I should also note that it was ordered direct thru armytek's website and drop shipped from China. 

Has as anyone else been thru this with armytek? 

Thanks in advance....


----------



## scs

Either head over to Armytek's subforum or do a search and you'll see that at least several people have had to go through this hassle-free process to get a refund or replacement. Some really blow a gasket doing it, others not so much.


----------



## garbman

Finally I have pulled the trigger and bought Two Tiara's A1 One pro and one simple.
both of them warm's
I have bought them from different sources. One from NKON the othe from HKequipment.
the problem is with the Pro version. 
The tint is not warm is YELLOW.
I have tried with my photo camera to measure the Kelvins and it showed me ~3400k.
The problem of course is that with such a low temperature it changes the color of the objects.
if something is pure white then it makes it yellow, if it's yellow it oversaturated it.
The simple version came in about 3800k so it's very close to 4000k and of course I'm very pleased with it.
Is anyone else have such tint problem ?


----------



## Beacon of Light

So do the V2 Pro versions of the Tiara/Wizard now come with built in voltage indicators? On the spec sheets on Armytek's website it says it does, but I specifically remember me ranting about them dropping the voltage indicator on the V2 units because of lack of memory space to include it. I can't believe their specs page would be wrong considering the V2 versions have been out close to a year already. Which is correct?


----------



## D6859

Beacon of Light said:


> So do the V2 Pro versions of the Tiara/Wizard now come with built in voltage indicators? On the spec sheets on Armytek's website it says it does, but I specifically remember me ranting about them dropping the voltage indicator on the V2 units because of lack of memory space to include it. I can't believe their specs page would be wrong considering the V2 versions have been out close to a year already. Which is correct?



IIRC last time I checked their manual for v2 it didn't describe the usage of the meter. Now it does. Maybe they've updated both model and manual.


----------



## Beacon of Light

Yeah it is weird that it was gone and now magically re-appeared... with no word on this from the company itself.


----------



## D6859

D6859 said:


> IIRC last time I checked their manual for v2 it didn't describe the usage of the meter. Now it does. Maybe they've updated both model and manual.



Sorry, the old manual on my computer (which I think I was referring to) is for non-Pro version, which doesn't describe the voltage meter for obvious reason. But it seems to have re-appeared anyway!


----------



## Kilovolt

I have just received a Tiara C1 Pro V2 and I am looking for advice. The light appears to work as it should and I plan to use it for EDC/pocket carry and not as a headlamp. There's however a few things I don't understand.

The first question is about the 'specifying the battery type ...' Since I use alternatively an AW RCR123 or an unprotected 18350 how should I behave? The phrase in the manual 'Do not specify the type of power source manually unless you use unprotected Li-ion batteries different from those that are stated by default' means nothing to me.

Secondly, is this choice you make a permanent one? Or it has to be made every time you change the battery which means also whenever you unscrew the tailcap for lock-out.

Last: is there any way to switch off the blinking LED in the switch? The manual says that the multicolor state indicator does not work in the off mode but it does.

Thanks for shedding some light ...


----------



## D6859

Kilovolt said:


> I have just received a Tiara C1 Pro V2 and I am looking for advice. The light appears to work as it should and I plan to use it for EDC/pocket carry and not as a headlamp. There's however a few things I don't understand.
> 
> The first question is about the 'specifying the battery type ...' Since I use alternatively an AW RCR123 or an unprotected 18350 how should I behave? The phrase in the manual 'Do not specify the type of power source manually unless you use unprotected Li-ion batteries different from those that are stated by default' means nothing to me.
> 
> Secondly, is this choice you make a permanent one? Or it has to be made every time you change the battery which means also whenever you unscrew the tailcap for lock-out.
> 
> Last: is there any way to switch off the blinking LED in the switch? The manual says that the multicolor state indicator does not work in the off mode but it does.
> 
> Thanks for shedding some light ...



If I've understtoop correct, selecting the battery type is for protecting the battery (and you). If you are using unprotected 18350 select the mode with 2 clicks. The headlamp will turn off by itself when battery voltage drops down (to 2.7 V or somth). If you select the mode with 1 click, the headlamp will allow unprotected battery deplept to lower voltage which isn't safe. This is better choice when you're using protected battery. In that case protection circuit on the battery will cut the current at 2.5 V so you can run all the juice out of the battery. I think you will be safe using selecting the mode 2 for both battery types. You can test it: Use protected battery. Select mode 2, run the headlamp until it turns off by itself, measure the voltage, select mode 1 and see if it still runs until the protection circuit cuts the current, measure the voltage. First measured voltage should be higher than the cut-off voltage 2.45 V of an AW RCR123.

IIRC Armytek replied in some thread that choice is memorized.

Have you tried instructions for Wizard Pro v2? "*Switching Multicolor State Indication ON/OFF.* It is switched off by default in OFF-state and Firefly modes. To turn on and off: unscrewthe tailcap to 1/4, press the button and holding the button pressed - tighten the tailcap and then unscrew it again. The settings will bememorized even when battery is changed." I've noticed it's quite hard to keep holding the button and if the headlamp turns on I've failed. Try it couple of times.


----------



## Kilovolt

Thanks for your comments.

I'll follow your advice and leave the light in battery mode 2 to be safe.

As to the state indication LED in the switch I have tried unsuccessfully the procedure written in the Wizard's manual. This part of the instructions is not included in the Tiara's manual though.

More playing with the light showed me that:

When the light is switched on in a firefly mode the indicator blinks for 1 ,2, 3 or 4 times to show the battery level then goes out but only while the flashlight is on. With normal modes the LED keeps blinking. Once the light is off the indicator starts blinking continuously. The only way I found to stop it is to unscrew the tailcap and screw it back on. When you screw it back the indicator stays off until the next time you switch on the flashlight but this state is not memorized so you have to do an unscrew/re-screw of the tailcap every time you switch the light off.

I hope my above explanation is clear enough and I would appreciate more comments/advice.


----------



## Woods Walker

Well some months later after looking I finally got around to ordering a Tiara A1 pro V2. I will compare it to my HL50 which has proven to be a winner. Mostly got this as it was on sale so will see what happens.


----------



## blah9

Great! I'm looking forward to hearing what you think.


----------



## Woods Walker

blah9 said:


> Great! I'm looking forward to hearing what you think.



It's being shipped now so will have the light soon enough for testing. Was considering getting 14500 but unsure as to what the output would be for the V2 on high. With either battery type I would consider that a turbo thing anyway.


----------



## chadvone

Got Tiara C1 on the way. On my prime pro AA the hi main 3 is same with NiMH and Li-Ion. Turbo or max there is a notable increase.


----------



## Woods Walker

The mail was slow but got it. No instructions or any indication as to what version I got. Illumination supply has it listed on my receipt at Pro V2 345 lumen Neutral White but how to know? Also have no clue what to do with this headband. I will check their website to see how it straps up. Seems bigger than I expected and more so when compared to the HL50. The tint is more warm than NW, with the HL50 being NW and this warmer. I will need some field testing to see which one is actually better. Cosmetically I like both tints (HL50 and Armytek). I am going to take it out for tonight's trail run. Thinking about doing a direct review comparing both the Armytek and Fenix but will have to use it for weeks first.

So how do I know which version beyond Illumination supply's description I got. Also are the instructions on the Armytk website accurate. They weren't for the Standard Predator.

Edit. I think I got the headband on right.


----------



## chadvone

My Tiara C1 was missing one of the head strap buckles. I robbed one from old rayovac headlight. 
Also no manual.


----------



## Woods Walker

chadvone said:


> My Tiara C1 was missing one of the head strap buckles. I robbed one from old rayovac headlight.
> Also no manual.



I got everything listed as what's including online plus what looks like a metal lanyard loop. It's not shown in the list of what's included but in the photo of the light so I guess it's complete minus manual.


----------



## nimdabew

Mine is going to be here tomorrow. I really hope the holder doesn't suck as badly as some in this thread are describing. I will never take mine out since it is going to be a dedicated headlamp, but I would be a little more than bummed if the headlamp holder ripped within a few months since it is going to be on my head every morning and night while at work. Alaska is dark during the winter, so I will be putting it through the wringer as far as cold temps and work load go in the next few months.

ETA: I am probably going to buy a Zebralight H302W as a backup however.


----------



## Woods Walker

nimdabew said:


> Mine is going to be here tomorrow. I really hope the holder doesn't suck as badly as some in this thread are describing. I will never take mine out since it is going to be a dedicated headlamp, but I would be a little more than bummed if the headlamp holder ripped within a few months since it is going to be on my head every morning and night while at work. Alaska is dark during the winter, so I will be putting it through the wringer as far as cold temps and work load go in the next few months.
> 
> ETA: I am probably going to buy a Zebralight H302W as a backup however.



I don't think it will be ripped just by use. 

On a side note anyone knows how to tell V2 from V1?


----------



## Woods Walker

Toolboxkid said:


> No, my switch does not light up. From my understanding, only the wizard v1.5 pros light up, none of the tiara series.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums



So I am guessing the blinking switch is only on the V2 pro? Mine does blink etc. I wish they sent it out with a manual.

edit 

I also noticed they changed the magnet tail cap from plastic to metal judging from an early video review. Mine is metal.


----------



## chadvone

The V2 pro has battery voltage as 4 100% < 50%- 3 flashes< 25% - 2 flashes< 10 - 1 flash The V1 blinked out the voltage, 3.8 , 4.2 etc etc. 

This is what the manual said at one time. Mine does not have any voltage flashes

You can go to Armytek website. Under support , discontinued models. There is links to the manuals.


----------



## blah9

Enjoy the lights!


----------



## nimdabew

Just got mine. User interface is slightly confusing for 30 seconds but pretty good after. I won't be taking my headlight mount on and off, but it seems OK. Headband requires a bit of stretching out. Mine fits a lot better after extending it to the max diameter and pulling until it nearly stops. Mode memory is nice though I am not thrilled about the switch. Beam profile is great and has little artifacts and other whizbang words. 

Real test will start in a week when I get to Bethel, AK in the morning and evening. It will be dark. Oh yes, there will be darkness


----------



## Woods Walker

chadvone said:


> The V2 pro has battery voltage as 4 100% < 50%- 3 flashes< 25% - 2 flashes< 10 - 1 flash The V1 blinked out the voltage, 3.8 , 4.2 etc etc.
> 
> You can go to Armytek website. Under support , discontinued models. There is links to the manuals.



Thanks for the help but I can't get it to actually go into the so-called battery voltage battery check mode. All I get is strobe and beacon. Also I have read both manuals. Here is a primary difference I seen between the old manual and newer one.

"Multicolor State Indication. Shows the battery level by short flashes every 5seconds. There is no State Indication in OFF state and Firefly modes.Low Battery Indication. In ON-state shows low battery level. When it is <25%,the color LED shows the warning level once a second and the main LEDflashes 2 times once a minute. Critical level <5% is color indicated twice asecond and light output decreases to Firefly1 and then switched off."

But I can't get any verification on this. Also the metal tail cap and lanyard seems different but again no verification. I thought this would be easy info to get but apparently no. I wish they gave me a manual with the light saying what version it was.


----------



## Woods Walker

Old manual.

https://www.armytek.com/data/manuals/discontinued/Tiara_PRO_manual_en.pdf

New manual.

https://www.armytek.com/products/flashlights/headlamps/armytek-tiara-pro-a1.html


----------



## chadvone

Was there a 1.5 version of this light light there was on the Wizard ? I think I remember something about them having a version without the voltage flashes.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...arm-XM-L2-Headlamps-In-Stock!&highlight=tiara

does yours look like this ?


----------



## Woods Walker

chadvone said:


> Was there a 1.5 version of this light light there was on the Wizard ? I think I remember something about them having a version without the voltage flashes.
> 
> http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...arm-XM-L2-Headlamps-In-Stock!&highlight=tiara
> 
> does yours look like this ?



No. It looks like this.





So does anyone out there own V1. If so does the power switch light up aka flashes green to red as a battery indicator.


----------



## chadvone

WW, that sure looks like a V2 to me. The Pro's have flashing switches. I just checked my Tiara Pro V2 and it doesn't have the voltage flashes in the loop with strobe and a beacon...... Manual must be wrong.

Will yours take a palm strike to the tail??? Mine will shut off. 

If you using protected cells in these, make sure you let you light Know. Or you could be left in the dark.
Happened on hike last night. I have weak eagletac 16340 that tripped. Of course I had extra lights.


----------



## Woods Walker

chadvone said:


> WW, that sure looks like a V2 to me. The Pro's have flashing switches. I just checked my Tiara Pro V2 and it doesn't have the voltage flashes in the loop with strobe and a beacon...... Manual must be wrong.
> 
> Will yours take a palm strike to the tail??? Mine will shut off.
> 
> If you using protected cells in these, make sure you let you light Know. Or you could be left in the dark.
> Happened on hike last night. I have weak eagletac 16340 that tripped. Of course I had extra lights.



Mine is 1XAA and according to the manual (for whatever that's worth) it says only set the battery type if the cells are NOT protected. That makes perfect logic as the cut off voltage would be higher than the voltage of an NiMH/Lithium primary/alkaline. I think they dumped the flashing main LED method of checking remaining power because it wasn't accurate in favor of the flashing power switch which is on the wizard and V2 tiara if I am interpreting the posts in this thread (had to extrapolate based on anecdotal reports). What's amazing is the near total lack of even basic information about this light. That's the manufacturer's fault. In any case I think the flashing power switch is a give away as to the version. I will once again ask if anyone owns V1 and if the power button lights up. 

To answer your question. No a palm strike will not turn the light off however I am using a Duraloop 2500 mAh.

To ask the question again.

Does anyone own a V1 1XAA Tiarra Pro? If so does your power switch light up aka flash green etc like the wizard?


----------



## D6859

Woods Walker said:


> Does anyone own a V1 1XAA Tiarra Pro? If so does your power switch light up aka flash green etc like the wizard?



V1 1AA owner here. No flashing switch unfortunately :/


----------



## chadvone

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tHxXM3loCg

This is earlier version. NO button flash,  Double click to turbo, voltage blinks in with the strobe and beacon. tailcap has lanyard hole.

Hope this helps.


----------



## chadvone

My point about telling it Li-ion. If you leave it for AA (Eneloop, alky). And install a 14500 Li-ion, the button light will flash green until it trips the protection and then your in the dark. If you tell it Li-ion button will flash green orange then red as it dies. Mine also gives a Main Led flash then goes to a firefly mode.


----------



## Woods Walker

D6859 said:


> V1 1AA owner here. No flashing switch unfortunately :/



So that finally solves that for sure. Anyone reading this...

V1 pro = no flashlight switch.

V2 Pro = flashing switch.



chadvone said:


> My point about telling it Li-ion. If you leave it for AA (Eneloop, alky). And install a 14500 Li-ion, the button light will flash green until it trips the protection and then your in the dark. If you tell it Li-ion button will flash green orange then red as it dies. Mine also gives a Main Led flash then goes to a firefly mode.



Ok. Thanks. I will keep that in mind.


----------



## chadvone

Just did a run time test on my wife's Tiara C1 Pro with Titanium Innovation CR123 At Main 2 70 lumens.
I got 6 Hours 51 minutes.

Also running Prime Pro A1 with Energizer Ultimate lithium. It is past 7 hours still going.

I noticed button blinked green, then red, then main led flashed all with in 30 seconds. I didn't get a yellow flash warning. Maybe its the nature of the luthium cells ????


----------



## Woods Walker

chadvone said:


> Just did a run time test on my wife's Tiara C1 Pro with Titanium Innovation CR123 At Main 2 70 lumens.
> I got 6 Hours 51 minutes.
> 
> Also running Prime Pro A1 with Energizer Ultimate lithium. It is past 7 hours still going.
> 
> I noticed button blinked green, then red, then main led flashed all with in 30 seconds. I didn't get a yellow flash warning. Maybe its the nature of the luthium cells ????



Lithium primaries have functioned differently than primaries in other lights so maybe that's the case. I am working on a comparison review/video for the HL50 vs. Tiara in actual field use aka during my night hikes and runs. The HL50 can do

CR123 60 lumens 9H 45 min.
1XAA (guessing eneloops) 55 lumens 6H 20 min.

Not surprised the Tiara using 1XCR1123 is doing 70 lumens for 6 Hours 51 minutes.


----------



## Woods Walker

After 6 days of ownership and maybe two or 3 night hikes The Tiara Pro A1 V2 is dead. The only thing I can think of is if the light got accidentally put in unprotected 14500 MODE but not sure how that would happen. I don't have any 14500 to test that theory out. 

Edit.

That was the issue. See later posts for solutions.


----------



## Woods Walker

I am trying to work out why this thing failed so radically after hardly any use aka 2 hikes and 6 days of ownership. Does anyone know if accidentally putting an A1 pro V2 to 14500 power supply will totally kill the light if using NIMH. I again tested it with NiMH, alkaline and lithium primary. All I get is flickering power switch and flickering moonlight mode as seen in the video. Also it won't even stay on even to flicker in moonlight unless I hold the button. I don't think the light was mistakenly put in 14500 mode and even if so that should not totally kill the light as it would be happening all the time for people who don't own 14500. I don't ever remember having a headlamp just fail like this so trying to figure it out. Then again my personal Armytek failure rate is rather high. One out of 3 actually working is kind bad IMHO.


----------



## chadvone

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?396543-Armytek-Prime-A1

Check out post #3

This is exactly how my Prime Pro A1 V1 acted when I inserted a NiMH after having it set to Li-Ion. I hope that is all that is wrong with yours.
This has been corrected on the V2 prime A1

Solutions. Primary 123 at end of your AA would need some wire to complete circuit. A friend with 14500.


----------



## Woods Walker

chadvone said:


> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?396543-Armytek-Prime-A1
> 
> Check out post #3
> 
> This is exactly how my Prime Pro A1 V1 acted when I inserted a NiMH after having it set to Li-Ion. I hope that is all that is wrong with yours.
> This has been corrected on the V2 prime A1
> 
> Solutions. Primary 123 at end of your AA would need some wire to complete circuit. A friend with 14500.



i guess it has not been corrected as near as I can tell mine is V2. If so it is a bad bad flaw as I never intentionally set the light for that mode. Gosh not sure what to do. It also doesn't help that the light didn't come with a manual. Maybe I will order some 14500 to see.


----------



## chadvone

Stand light on its head with tailcap off. Insert a Ni-MH. Insert a CR123 Primary. Get a Paper clip and bent it into a S shape that will contact the bare aluminum on the light and the negative end of the Primary CR123. Ni-MH 1.2 CR123 3 volts. That should allow you to reset to Ni-MH. May need a second person. Or extra time with paper clip bending to get so you can hold it with one hand.


----------



## Woods Walker

chadvone said:


> Stand light on its head with tailcap off. Insert a Ni-MH. Insert a CR123 Primary. Get a Paper clip and bent it into a S shape that will contact the bare aluminum on the light and the negative end of the Primary CR123. Ni-MH 1.2 CR123 3 volts. That should allow you to reset to Ni-MH. May need a second person. Or extra time with paper clip bending to get so you can hold it with one hand.



Here is what I did. I speculated that the cutoff voltage would be around 2.8 volts so combined 2XAA alkalines and some wire. Then went to their web site as have no clue how to reset the power source (no manual included) and presto! If I knew this I could have actually done it using the kit in my pack. I have wire in all my PSKs and always pack an extra battery.





Still this will count against the Armytek when I do the comparison between the Tiarra A1 Pro vs HL50. Pros, the ability to safely use unprotected 14500. Cons you can totally shut off the light and without included instruction a person would never even know what's going on. Heck even with the online instructions it's not really explained. I am going to buy some 14500. I have a charger as use 18650 and 16650.


----------



## chadvone

Glad you got it to work. My Tiara C1 Pro ran 5 hours 40 minutes on Nitecore IMR 18350 at 70 lumen level.

My Prime Pro A1 ran 2 hours 55 minutes on Nitecore IMR 14500 at 70 lumens. I think the Prime A1 and the Taira A1 have same circuit.


----------



## Woods Walker

chadvone said:


> Glad you got it to work. My Tiara C1 Pro ran 5 hours 40 minutes on Nitecore IMR 18350 at 70 lumen level.
> 
> My Prime Pro A1 ran 2 hours 55 minutes on Nitecore IMR 14500 at 70 lumens. I think the Prime A1 and the Taira A1 have same circuit.



I am glad as well because it's warm NW tint and beam pattern is rapidly growing on me. I was actually a bit squeamish about tonight's brook dunk test however it didn't leak so that's another pro. I am always skeptical of water proof/resistance claims until tested to at least some degree personally.


----------



## chadvone

Glad it passed. I have glassed mine, in the safety of light. I just posted a few other issues. In AT's Tiara thread.
I really like my Armytek lights. Sometimes it might sound like I am b#tching.


----------



## blah9

Like I said in the other thread I'm glad it's working, and great ideas everyone.

I am also a huge fan of the warm light from my Wizard Pro Warm. It has grown on me to be perhaps my favorite tint of all my lights.


----------



## chadvone

Woods Walker how does the 70 lumen level compare to the 60 on the fenix. My Tiara is light boxing around 60ish.

Also seen your post about possible getting a Zebralight H302w. I had one. Great light for anything 10 feet away and under. Hiking use, not so great. The super flooder made me use a much higher setting. Requiring more cells.

Blah9 I bought my Wizard Pro Warm for a headlamp. It has found its way into my pocket.

Wife's Tiara is a CW. One of the better cools I have used. On our walks I can see where she is looking and don't get upset when she crosses beams with my Warm Wizard


----------



## Woods Walker

chadvone said:


> Woods Walker how does the 70 lumen level compare to the 60 on the fenix. My Tiara is light boxing around 60ish.
> 
> Also seen your post about possible getting a Zebralight H302w. I had one. Great light for anything 10 feet away and under. Hiking use, not so great. The super flooder made me use a much higher setting. Requiring more cells.
> 
> Blah9 I bought my Wizard Pro Warm for a headlamp. It has found its way into my pocket.
> 
> Wife's Tiara is a CW. One of the better cools I have used. On our walks I can see where she is looking and don't get upset when she crosses beams with my Warm Wizard



The HL50s 60 lumens or 55 has the same field effectiveness for hiking compared to the Tiara's 70. Slightly less flood but a little more throw. The flood is enough to walk, very flood for a reflector light and the extra throw balances out the lower lumens when looking for trial markers or paths. Despite having around 20 less lumens both lights throw the same. The pro is longer runtimes but at less overall output. Fenix also uses the same LED IMHO as the ZL SC5w. Maybe they picked a cooler NW than Armytek got. It's more of a true NW. I actually prefer that tint but glad the Tiara is on the warmer side as like variety. The Tiara has an edge with it's 10 lumen low mode compared to the HL50's 3-4 lumen low as it's more useful in camp. I wish the Tiara had a 3-4 lumen mode and the HL50 a 10 lumen mode. 

As for battery indicators everyone I ever used only really gave me a rough estimate.


----------



## chadvone

The zebra W's use 4500kv Armytek uses 4000kv. I also liked the tint of my H600w. But it was not enough to keep the light.

Tested my Prime Pro A1 today. 210 lumen level. Ni-MH. 68 minutes Green flash. 9 minutes of Yellow. 4 minutes of RED and Main led. Stepped, 2 minutes at 140, 
2 minutes at 40 then stepped to 10 lumens and I stopped.

So if the Tiara A1 has same circuit you would get 4 minutes of 210 lumens to mind your surroundings , and another 4 minutes of stepping down to 10 lumens. 
Plenty of warning for all the situations I can see myself in. 
I also tested the Tiara C1 Pro at 210 lumens with NC 18350 IMR. Flashed green for 1 hour 58 minutes, I fell asleep a few minutes into the yellow flashing.


----------



## Woods Walker

chadvone said:


> The zebra W's use 4500kv Armytek uses 4000kv. I also liked the tint of my H600w. But it was not enough to keep the light.
> 
> Tested my Prime Pro A1 today. 210 lumen level. Ni-MH. 68 minutes Green flash. 9 minutes of Yellow. 4 minutes of RED and Main led. Stepped, 2 minutes at 140,
> 2 minutes at 40 then stepped to 10 lumens and I stopped.
> 
> So if the Tiara A1 has same circuit you would get 4 minutes of 210 lumens to mind your surroundings , and another 4 minutes of stepping down to 10 lumens.
> Plenty of warning for all the situations I can see myself in.
> I also tested the Tiara C1 Pro at 210 lumens with NC 18350 IMR. Flashed green for 1 hour 58 minutes, I fell asleep a few minutes into the yellow flashing.



That seems about right in terms of the voltage indicator. Good enough for me and another pro of a single battery headlamp or flashlight is easy battery change in low light conditions. Then again having only one battery can increase the chance of the actual need. LOL! I think both of my Armytek warm lights are warmer than 4000k but have no way to test it. They're on the warm side of NW which again is ok. My most disliked tint is CW with a strong shift to squid **** green then CW with a strong shift to alien abduction angry blue. CW what's creamy white, NW, Warmish NW, Warm are all ok. All of that said I value reliability and durability (not necessarily the same thing) over tint, modes, runtimes and about everything else. Any gear item that works trumps the one which doesn't.


----------



## chadvone

"Any gear item that works trumps the one which doesn't." 

Well said.

I remember when my Princeton Tec Aurora and CMG Infinity was all I needed for a night hike. I still have them both. Angry Abduction blue as you put it...... I never carried spare cells back then. They were backup to each other.


----------



## Woods Walker

Here is an interesting bug. Once the battery runs down too low for max and the highest level 3 aka just turns off on those settings yet has enough power for all other modes with a green flashlight light I got it (god knows how) to get stuck in firefly with the green power button light permanently on. Normally the green power button light doesn't flash when using firefly but it was stuck solid green which is also a first. I needed to untwist the tail to reset the light. With a fresh battery it hasn't happened again and even worked just fine on the run down battery once it was reset via untwisting the tail. Still we have two first with this headlamp that I never experienced with any other model regardless of maker.

1. The ability to totally disable it via mistaken power mode setting. Reset via 2XAA trick. Worked fine after that.

2. The inability to turn it off. :laughing: No really.... It wouldn't turn off till the tail was twisted off. LOL! Worked fine after that.

There are some ghosts in this machine. I have some 14500 Fenix batteries in the mail so looking forward to seeing what the max mode looks like using those.


----------



## zr2yz125

"Any gear item that works trumps the one which doesn't."

...I completely agree! My Tiara A1 was so buggy I dumped it and picked up a Zebralight H52Fw instead. The ZL is a much nicer light...and it's reliable!


----------



## Woods Walker

zr2yz125 said:


> "Any gear item that works trumps the one which doesn't."
> 
> ...I completely agree! My Tiara A1 was so buggy I dumped it and picked up a Zebralight H52Fw instead. The ZL is a much nicer light...and it's reliable!



I have a ZL SC5w and so far it's wonderful. If they make a headlamps version I would consider it. Also own a H50 and H501 and H501w.


----------



## gunga

I was considering an armytek. Now, not so much.


----------



## Woods Walker

gunga said:


> I was considering an armytek. Now, not so much.



To be fair low power can make lights do funky things (granted that was really funky) and the other issue isn't so bad once known. I am actually liking it but that's not the same thing as totally trusting it. The brand is sold as super reliable and durable but it seems there are questions hanging over it. So is it a wiz bang (multiple battery types and many modes) brand rather than durable/reliable aka Malkoff? I am doing the HL50 part of the 1XAA showdown tomorrow. Hope that also passes the water test.


----------



## gunga

Yes. Let us know. I was thinking of this as an alternative to a zebralight headlamp but I'm not sure I trust ít.


----------



## Woods Walker

gunga said:


> Yes. Let us know. I was thinking of this as an alternative to a zebralight headlamp but I'm not sure I trust ít.



My A1 earned it's keep today. I was trail running and the weather turned bad. Rained so hard I had to run the A1 on the second to highest mode, the one just below turbo. It was able to cut through the downpour and mist to illuminate the forest and trail floor. No water got in and the light was really needed. That and my Equinox Silnylon poncho really helped. The trails were flooded and pitch black with miles to go. With luck it will keep on working.


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## blah9

Nice! My Wizard Pro has been through a lot of rain with no problems too.


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## nimdabew

Quick review:

I have a ZL H302WF and Tiara C1 Pro that I was going to do a lengthy comparison on here in Alaska and its freezing temperatures and cold windy mornings. I used the ZL for all of two days and now I just grab the C1. I think it is a superior light, but I would have to get the non-flood version of the ZL to make a proper comparison.


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## gunga

Ok. Still looking to see if it's a worthy competition for a zebralight.


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## chadvone

They have a frosted H302 ?? I have had both lights, I still have Armytek


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## gunga

Please do tell.


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## nimdabew

chadvone said:


> They have a frosted H302 ?? I have had both lights, I still have Armytek



It is sort of. It's a great flood light, but nearly useless on ultra high mode past about 30 feet. 

http://www.zebralight.com/H302w-CR123-Flood-Headlamp-Neutral-White_p_156.html

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=RGVrZWhIenFJWkk2UkZmRWI4a0pkRjNnMzJPNTN3


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## chadvone

gunga said:


> Please do tell.



Switch layout. UI. Beam profile. Tail magnet. 18350.
No issues with any of my Zebras, both good choices. I just prefer AT for reasons listed above. 
I have had issues with AT.


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## Woods Walker

I have been using the Tiara more and more. In fact finished the smack down testing between that and the HL50. Been running a Keeppower 14500 battery which works great in the A1 but wonder if the performance in the real world is all that much better than a 2500 Eneloop pro? From the naked eye both batteries run the headlamp very bright though guessing the Lithium ion is technically brighter. Haven't tested it using a Lithium primary beyond a short walk. That too worked great. The headband and silicone holder is comfortable when running as well. With the exception of the accidental lockout as discussed earlier and a few strange UI bugs which are hard to reproduce I am happy.


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## JorisFRST

Decided on the Tiara C1 PRO Warm 90CRI, and it's a very nice light for going out in the garden at night etc...Output is half of that of the normal models, but still plenty.It's such a neat light that i'm getting another one of them, but the normal warm white version.Just not sure if I'll go XM-L which they only have in cold white, or xp-l in warm white ? I know the warm white xp-l will output less light, but i'm not bothered about that, any other things that are pro xm-l ? I really like the warm tint when working outside.


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## Woods Walker

JorisFRST said:


> Decided on the Tiara C1 PRO Warm 90CRI, and it's a very nice light for going out in the garden at night etc...Output is half of that of the normal models, but still plenty.It's such a neat light that i'm getting another one of them, but the normal warm white version.Just not sure if I'll go XM-L which they only have in cold white, or xp-l in warm white ? I know the warm white xp-l will output less light, but i'm not bothered about that, any other things that are pro xm-l ? I really like the warm tint when working outside.


You would be hard pressed to see the 7% difference between a XM-L V2 cool white or NW in terms of brightness.


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