# Survival knife



## brianvmsu

well i have now successfully settled into my new house and frequent the woods on long hikes and what not that are in my backyard. i am also making a survival kit so i am looking for a good survival knife that will not break the bank. I presently EDC a sog flash and a sog B61 multitool. I am very impressed with there quality and staff, so i started looking at their fixed blades and i like the seal pup elite.

First does anyone here have any hands on experience with this knife, and/or rec something that they use

Second. What blade type should i be looking for a plain (more cutting surface) or partial serrated.

Brian


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## jbosman1013

I had a seal pup and really liked it but it didn't hold a edge very well its also not something I would consider a survial knife. Take a look at these http://rangerknives.com/Knives/index.html they have great reviews and a good price.


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## thesurefire

To me, "survival knife" in the woods means 'axe replacement' so it has to be big enough to chop firewood and build shelters effectively. For this reason I wouldn’t go with a blade less then 8 inches. Yes it will be heavy, but it will also get the job done with minimal effort. If your going to carry an axe already, forget taking a big knife and just carry a folder and multitool. 

A good entry level choice here is the Becker Brute Knife it should run under 100. A good high level knife here is the scrap yard knife dog father it should run about 200. I've used both and like the dog father. I have a scrapper6 from scrap yard knifes that I love for lighter duty, but it doesn’t bite into wood like the dog father. 

If your talking about a "camp knife" to do things like cut up lunch meat, trim the occasional branch, make fire curls with and the like, I would not recommend a blade over 6 inches. I really like the ‘Ozark trail’ knife that Wal-Mart sells for a camp knife. They run 10 dollars. It doesn’t hold a great edge long, but it takes a super fine one. it isn’t super durable but it gets the light jobs done very well. Its also incredibly easy to sharpen.


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## NA8

When I think of a survival knife, I always picture the old Navy pilot survival knife design, with the leather sheath that had the sharpening stone in a compartment. I think the end had a big hex nut design for hammering and the finger guard had holes in it for tying to a stick.

Ah.. here it is: 

http://www.arms2armor.com/Knives/pilot1.htm

Looks like Ontario still makes them.

Ontario also made a couple of updated versions of the old knife. I like the newest look: 

http://www.knivesplus.com/QN-FF2-Ontario.HTML

5 1/2" 1095 carbon steel blade, .1875" (3/16") thick.

Chris Reeve makes a modern version of the Navy pilot's survival knife called the Aviator. Cut from one piece of A2 steel and has a hollow handle compartment. 

edit: looks like this knife might have been discontinued. (?) 

Then again, if you think the old Navy survival knife was a little on the light side or the Aviator is a bit small, you might like the latest thing in a USMC survival knife: 

http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/793576/

Check out the raw blade picture down the page.

If you're a traditionalist though, they also make a retro version of the Marine fighting knife design with a 5" blade suited to hiking. 

http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/794669/

If you're like me and live near the ocean, you may not want a carbon tool steel blade no matter how tough they are. Luckily there's a company that makes comparable knives using laminated stainless steels. Their F1 and S1 are tested and approved for use by air crews in the US Marines/US Navy.

http://www.fallkniven.com/next-index.htm


They also make a wee steroid monster: 

http://www.fallkniven.com/nothern/tor.htm


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## JimH

The best survival knife in the world is the one you have with you when you need it. I EDC a Benchmade Rukus (good price here) and love it. It's heavy enough for chopping, and I have used it for that, albeit only for trees and bushes in my back yard.


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## jbosman1013

if not a fixed blade +1 on a rukus best folder for the money. here's another place to get one http://www.newgraham.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=rukus


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## AndyTiedye

Wenger NewRanger 58:


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## iTorch

As others have pointed out, actually having it when you need it makes a difference, the best handmade knife in the world don't mean squat if you don't have it when you need it, and you never "plan" on being in a surival situation.
So saying if you are going out camping or even for a walk in the woods a good blade is very useful.

A well made folder will be very useful and helpful, for instance a Spyderco Pacific Salt with a serrated edge is impervious to rust, has a strengthened tip, is lightweight, and has a good lock. Its great for slicing and dicing and at a pinch will be useful to assist in chopping bigger branches.

However to build a camp then a machete or kukri will be a much better choice, these will hack through most things with ease, will dig into the ground fairly easily if you need to hollow out some dirt/snow, Gerber makes a good machete that has a saw blade on the back, but forreal chopping an axe is a better option again. Once more these are heavy and probably not what you want to take for a walk.

A good fixed blade is your next option, and probably the best one there is overall: can still slice and dice, should be stong enough to open a can (although a can opener is much better-this is emergency use not everyday) should be able to be tied to a stick as a spear or for cutting things out of reach, is strong enough to be put edge down on a big branch and then hit or pounded with another to cut it, should be able to be used for light digging use, should be fine enough to skin and gut as well, needs to be able to hold an edge, but should also be able to be sharpened on a rock if you do not have a proper stone with you. Point is often a weak point-for this I avoid the "bowie" style, tips often break, I prefer a tanto tip, very strong.

Length: too big and you will not have it when you need it, too small and a folder is better, overall around 12 inches, blade 6-7 and handel remainder. A good sheath is needed, might be better to get a custom made one if the one it comes with is no good, and if you can put a bit of flint in it somewhere then thats a bonus too, some have a little pouch for a sharpener, throw away the stone and put together a tiny kit with a ceramic sharpening stick, a bit of flint and a striker, needle and tweesers, minimum bits and pieces in a tiny in or wrapped in tin foil.

If you can wrap some paracord around the sheath as well this will be useful.

Remember though - it needs to be with you to be useful, if its too big you will leave it at home that one time you go for a 5 minute walk, see something funny, take a wrong turn, and actually need it...


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## NeonLights

I'd suggest something fixed blade, but not too big you won't want to carry it, but big and heavy enough to stand up to heavy duty use light some light chopping or clearing brush. I've got the classic USAF survival knife, and it barely qualifies. One knife that I own that definitely fits the bill is my Becker Crewman knife with its fat 5.5" blade. 
http://www.knifeworks.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3122
Similar short, heavy knifes are also available from Ranger and Ontario. A knife like this and a good multitool will be all you'll need (for edged tools anyways) for most real "survival" situations.


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## Daniel_sk

For long time survival I'd prefer an axe over a knife. You can do a lot more things with an axe.


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## FlashSpyJ

My friend who is a knife nut has told me a good rule when going out in the woods etc. Many thinks that you should just bring one knife with you, but he thinks you should apply the "three knife rule"! Depending on where your going, how long your going to be out, you should bring one big knife (that can take care of the biggest chopping chore you might encounter) one medium for food preparations and other chores that a smaller knife, that might be a bit sharper and thinner than the big knife, and finally one folding knife or preferable a multi tool!

Thats it! This three knifes are going to variate depending where you are going. I and neither are he, thinks that you can bring just one knife, a "survival" knife that takes care of all your needs are going to be half good for everything you are going to use it for.

And remember, everything a small knife can do, so can the the big knife, but not the other way around!


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## brianvmsu

ok maybe i was not all that clear

Yes i am looking for a fixed blade for hiking/camping etc plus make sure it is in my survival kit.

i know that you don't plan survival situations and in NJ you can't have a fixed blade on you at all times.

I carry a sog flash II and a sog multitool B62 everyday, i do not leave the house without them. I am looking for a knife for the times i know i will possible need something a bit more

Brian


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## JimH

When I go into the woods, I carry a Survival Golok from Valiant Trading Co. It's basically a 16" long razor blade that works well for chopping.


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## NA8

brianvmsu said:


> ok maybe i was not all that clear
> 
> Yes i am looking for a fixed blade for hiking/camping etc plus make sure it is in my survival kit.
> 
> I carry a sog flash II and a sog multitool B62 everyday, i do not leave the house without them. I am looking for a knife for the times i know i will possible need something a bit more



Still unclear here about "a bit more". What do you imagine you'll be doing with this knife that will make one knife more desirable than others ? That is, do you plan to chop wood with it like a boy scout axe, or skin a deer, or fight off a mountain lion ?


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## Dirty Bob

For most camping tasks, I like a Frost's/Mora "Swedish Army Knife" for a light, compact fixed blade, and a Swiss Army knife for a pocket folder. Most of the time, I am not cutting wood, so most of the time an ax or machete or saw is not needed.

For some larger cutting duties, consider a small, folding saw. I have a Gerber that cuts much better than one would expect for a six inch blade. A saw is quiet and makes cleaner cuts in wood that will be used for making things like stakes, or a makeshift stretcher, etc. It's also fairly efficient in terms of energy you use vs. the amount of wood you cut. To be fair, though, I'm in a warm climate where a campfire is mostly for cooking, not for heat, and only a small supply of wood is therefore needed. One big plus for the the saw is that it's safer to use when you're tired, cold or sick than an ax or machete.

Knives and tools for the outdoors don't have to be big, nor heavy. My Swedish Army fixed blade is under four ounces and can be carried in a large pocket or taped to a pack frame. It's stainless, yet it's easy to sharpen and cuts like a demon.

Regards,
Dirty Bob


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## Blue72

Bark River Knives

awesome knives for survival. By the way I believe 4-6 inches is all you need. Especially with a bark river. They can't chop like a big knife but they can get the same job done by batoning. 

Big knives suck, try trail running, mountain biking,rock climbing, skiing,etc... with a big knife


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## DaFABRICATA

I often do diving contests that involve multiple flip tricks while hold my Extrema Ratio Kukri KL in my mouth....


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## scott.cr

Cold Steel makes a variety of inexpensive knives made of 1055 hot-roll steel. They include a simple sheath and come in under the $20 range. It's not everyone's idea of an exotic knife, but they're cheap enough so you always have it when you need it, and hell for stout. Ding the blade? So what! Grind it down on a river rock and keep moving! ;-) (I might lose a little sleep if that happened to, say, a Strider BT.)


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## cutlerylover

Mora knives are great and cheap! check out my video on moras...Many outdoorsman prefer moras for their scandinavian grind, of course if youw ant to spend a bit more, you could just get another scandinavian knife with a nicer wood handle...

http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=cutlerylover


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## Outdoors Fanatic

I prefer a chopper.


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## ScubaSnyder

Here is a nice choice, there is no sawing with this, this thing takes down anything...but a larger tree will take time and skill.






http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=KA1249

I use the Tom Brown Tracker knife its s bit smaller but still functions in what it needs to do.


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## Dirty Bob

The KA-BAR kukri is cool! I haven't had the chance to handle one, but I suspect it's quite useful. Kukris can do more than just chop. I once saw a guy on a construction site using a kukri as a drawknife, to peel bark from some huge poles that were going into a mess hall.

If I need something bigger than a Mora, I'll reach for a Tramontina machete or a Plumb or Fiskars ax, or perhaps my homemade collapsible bucksaw. The bucksaw's not the most convenient of the tools, but it'll out-work an ax or machete, at least in my hands.

Regards,
Dirty Bob


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## StuToffee

For a small fixed blade, I carry a Frost Mora.
For something a little larger, a Kabar or Becker BK7
For huge, a BK9 or my Battle Rat.


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## DaFABRICATA

One of my survival knives.


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## Blue72

this one is only 6.8" long





bark river 







nice thick spine for batoning


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## ScubaSnyder

DaFABRICATA said:


> One of my survival knives.



What kind of knife/machete is that ?


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## DaFABRICATA

Extrema Ratio Kukri KL.

Its a BEAST!...... yet not too big to be thrown into a backpack.

Holds a nice sharp edge too!


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## Joe Talmadge

dd61999 said:


> Bark River Knives
> 
> awesome knives for survival. By the way I believe 4-6 inches is all you need. Especially with a bark river. They can't chop like a big knife but they can get the same job done by batoning.
> 
> Big knives suck, try trail running, mountain biking,rock climbing, skiing,etc... with a big knife



Hopefully the OP has figured out that there's no right answer, just a best-fit based on what you're willing to carry and how skilled you are at using it. If you ask seriously experienced wilderness experts, you'll see similar differences in opinion ... although more often than not you'll see many favoring the 4"-6" do-everything knife. And that's where my choice lies too; like the above poster, I favor something like a Bark River. The Woodland posted by dd6 is a fine choice, I favor the Fox River, but these are variations on a theme.

A moderate-sized Bark River is easy to carry and very well manufactured. For something like shelter-building, I can baton it through small limbs faster than a slightly-bigger knife can chop through. Plus it's more nimble and usable for food prep and the like. It doesn't have to be Bark River, any 4"-6" knife made from good steel, with a performance-optimized edge geometry and very secure ergonomic handle will do.

In real life, my choice in the woods is the Bark River (or similar) coupled with a big knife that's appropriate to the terrain ... larger machete, hatchet, etc. But I tend to doubt that you'll carry that really big knife on frequent hikes from your backyard, so ... back to the 4"-6" do-all knife, and develop the skills to use it.

The knives that I definitely avoid are military-style knives, which may be big but often have crappy edge geometry for woodwork and food prep.

No need for serrations.


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## CplTriangle

This is a knife I have used outdoors a bit, I don't think it could do any chopping work but it has a nice strong, thick blade and a very useful sheath. It's small enough that it doesn't sacrifice dexterity, and it fits very nicely in the hand no matter what grip you use.


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## Styerman

I would say a 3.5-4.00 fixed blade ( BRKT ) comes to mind , and a Victorinox farmer in the pocket would give you a leg up over most . I would also throw in a fire steel , with a piece of busted off hacksaw blade as a striker . The hack blade is also a possible auxillary knife . If I were in the bush I would also throw in a Granfors Burks hatchet , or axe of some flavor .

Chris


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## stitch_paradox

woops double post due to computer lag.


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## stitch_paradox

If you can bring 2 knives then do that, carry a big knife for large task (clearing path, chopping woods) and a small knife or a folder for finer task. 

+1 on the becker brute 
A knife with a machete attitude. too bad they are hard to find nowadays. 

+1 fallkniven knives. 
small, tough knives.


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## shakeylegs

The right blade, and the right survival gear, depend upon your situation - the environment, the emergency, and the other gear you have on hand. Assemble your survival gear based upon your best estimate of the worst situation you may face. In a real emergency, you need to stay warm, dry, hydrated, and fed. If injured and far from help, you need medical supplies. For all of the above needs a solid, lightweight folder will usually do. Personally, I'd carry a machete only if I had to hack my way through lots of jungle or "procure" a campsite in Yosemite.

Out of curiosity, has anyone here ever had to rely on a knife for their survival? 

I'm guessing true "survival" situations are a rarity for most of us. I've spent an enormous amount of time self propelled for days on end in the wilderness and despite many emergency situations, I've never been in a "survival situation" that required a special blade. More often I've found matches and a reliable light source most valuable.


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## jchen012

I would recommend the Gerber LMF-II or the cheaper version, the Gerber Prodigy.


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## Dutch

One fixed, one folder, and a multi-tool...






Strider MTL, Strider AR, and a SOG-S60 Powerlock... Great threesome!

Dutch


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## Dantor

Very good advice from Joe Talmadge, the man is very well respected here and other places.

Combo edges and full serrated edges are ok, good for cutting rope (sea work, cord), 
and should cut for a long time but they tend to shread other things and they are hard for most to sharpen 
(in the field and even at home), a PE (plain edge) blade is much easier to keep sharp especially if your not a pro. 

Check out the blades mentioned here and ask more questions and good luck in your search.


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## scott

Any Victorinox or Wenger Swiss Army Knife with a saw. I edc Farmer. Also look at the Vic Rucksack or One Hand Trekker. For a fixed blade, any of the Frost moras will work if you know what you're doing. I like the 510 and the Mora 2000. With the difference in weight between a lightweight mora and a big chopper, you could carry a light tarp or extra food.


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## Hooked on Fenix

If you want a survival knife, Harbor Freight sells a decent 12" stainless steel one for about $10. It's the type with a compartment in the handle, a saw back on the blade, and loaded with some cheap survival items and a compass. Hard to beat the price.


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## Burgess

Lots of good info here.


Thank you to everyone for their suggestions.


:twothumbs

_


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## Dantor

I personally would not like to depend on a cheap survival knife, something possibly my life or safety depended on.

You don't have to spend hundreds on a good knife, but a no name, no history, cheap piece of metal isn't the way to go either. 

Their are so many good blades out there, just do a little research...


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## Dirty Bob

Better than a cheap stainless "survival knife" would be an Old Hickory butcher or boning knife. Good ol' honest high-carbon steel. Add a good sheath, and it's a better choice - and much more useful - than a lot of "tactical" knives out there.

Regards,
Dirty Bob


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## cy

just like lights... the best one is the knife on you. 

that's why my EDC is a Strider SMF and a little bitty cold steel folder.


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## Lee1959

For a large "survival" knife I would suggest what is perhaps one of the most useful but overlooked blades, the classic "Kabar" Marine Corps MKII FUK (Fighting Utility KNife). It is big enough to do any realistic job, and is cheap enough and easy enough to find so that if you have to use it hard you will not hesitate. Get the Kabar made version, not the newer military contract model, it is superior. 

I would lop off the top tine of the guard to make it more user friendly for choking up fine tasks and batoning on the spine to split or chop wood. I would also most likely reprofile the edge along the tip especially for use in fine cutting chores. 

Another plus is the carbon steel makes using a firesteel or piece of found flint for firemaking very easy.

These are my favorite woods walking folders:








This 5 inch carbon blade is about the biggest I carry, but I do normally carry a belt ax however.


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## cy

whoaaaa... you normally carry an AX? :green:



Lee1959 said:


> This 5 inch carbon blade is about the biggest I carry, but I do normally carry a belt ax however.


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## Lee1959

Lol a belt ax, it is similar to a hachete, but patterned on an older more primitive period style. I use more primitive gear because I enjoy period camping and treking. 

This is carried on my hunting pouch







I normall carry one of these when in the woods, the largest is only carried when I am going in by canoe or other transport.


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## Buster Bodine

Lee1959 said:


> I normall carry one of these when in the woods, the largest is only carried when I am going in by canoe or other transport.


 
Because you never know when you're going to have to chop your way out of your canoe, right? 

I KNOW, I KNOW! I'm sorry, I just had to say it! :devil:

Seriously, that's some nice gear.

It's kind of amazing how the old timers used to get along so well without Ti, G10, Carbon Fiber and S30V, isn't it?


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## CM

I know camping is not the same thing but I carry a medium folder (anything you're comfortable with) and a small axe. I get everything done with those two. Don't skimp on quality. You're probably looking for specifics but that's all going to depend on yourself and the environment you expect to be using the tools in.


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## vagalumi

Hi,if you like a big knife ,look at the Ontario RTAK II its abou110U$. Medium size , ka bar fighting knife or ontario sp2 airforce ~ 50 U$.
There are so many brands to choose from and i just named what came to my mind ( i was looking at some knives yesterday ) . 
For a survival knife , a high carbon steel blade is always a good thing , it's easier to sharpen and holds the edge longer .


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## NA8

Here's a couple of reviews of two nice hatchets, and a little Gerber axe lighter than some bigger knives: 

Wildlife Hatchet from Gransfors Bruks

http://www.cutleryscience.com/reviews/gb_hatchet.html

Fiskars 14" Sport hatchet:

http://www.cutleryscience.com/reviews/fiskars_hatchet.html

The Gerber is an even smaller 9 inch "Fiskar". 

http://www.agrussell.com/knives/by_type/axes/gerber_back_paxe_axe_w_ballistic_sheath_.html


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## smokelaw1

My combo: Busse Fusion Battle Mistress and a Spyderco Delica or Endura. There is rarely a need for a balde (that I encounter) that one of the two of those can't do.


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## phaserrifle

My suggestion is this:
get a mora (or two)
thier cheap, thier strong, and thier quite light, so you could happily carry a couple whithout problem. and if one breaks durin use, (assuming day to day use not emergency use) its no real bother, a new one is only a few dollars (although breaking it would take some doing)


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## Outdoors Fanatic

I'm using a RAT RC-4 from Rat Cutlery as my main bushcraft blade. What an excellent knife, as good as any custom made knife but it's under 100 bucks.


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## adamlau

The Yard Guard is a strong contender in the survival knife category...


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## CLHC

There was the Becker Knife and Tool line of knives that are now sought after. If I remember correctly, I heard that KaBar is bringing these back again. Only time will tell.

There's also the Ready Detachment Series by *<**Ranger Knives**>* that are something to look over, and Justin is great to work with for a custom and at reasonable prices.


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## mossyoak

ontario RAT-3


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## Culhain

For the past several years, for woods carry, I tend to prefer a Spyderco Endura, a SAK Farmer and a 3" to 4" fixed blade.

In my pack I might also have a Gerber folding saw, Gerber Sport Axe or Ontario 12" machete, depending on the season and terrain. I'm in the process of learning that the machete, in particular, is quite versatile and as my proficiency with it increases, I can see it being the only big tool that I need. Practice and time will tell.


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## Mercaptan

jchen012 said:


> I would recommend the Gerber LMF-II or the cheaper version, the Gerber Prodigy.




+5 on the Gerber LMF-II. I carry one in backpack. The integrated sharpener is something else - it's a great design. Some guy on youtube beats the hell out of knives by completely abusing them, he was impressed by the punishment it took.

Fantastic knife.


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## climberkid

I love the knife that Bear Grylls uses. its made by a company called Bayley and he influenced the design. it costs a small fortune of somewhere around $700. ugh that makes me so jealous. i wish i could afford a knife that sexy.


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## CLHC

Another "survival knife" looking into:

*Grayman Knives*


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## Fargus

Fällkniven S1 or A1. I own the S1 and it is just about perfect. The 5" blade is short enough to make smaller tasks manageable and long enough to allow some serious baton work. Balance is excellent as well for light chopping duty.


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## Outdoors Fanatic

Fargus said:


> Fällkniven S1 or A1. I own the S1 and it is just about perfect. The 5" blade is short enough to make smaller tasks manageable and long enough to allow some serious baton work. Balance is excellent as well for light chopping duty.


I'd rather have a Bark River Knife & Tool instead of a any Fallkniven any day of week. They are made in the in U.S and come with lifetime warranty. If you can actually break one, they will fix it for free. Just like a Busse. Not to mention that the A2 Tool steel combined with the superb heat treatment done by Mike Stewart of Bark River is much superior to the stainless steel used by the Swedish company.


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## maddog

this is an interesting post. but when people talk about buying something for the purpose of "Planing" a Survival Kit ... meaning that this is something that they want to Rely on when the chips are down ... "In a Survival Situation". yet try to factor in cost??? remember this is something that your buying "Knowing" that your life might depend on it. wouldn't you want the best in those situations? i'm sure if your knife breaks you won't be saying, well that was the worst $50.00 i spent. 

am i a little extreme ... maybe but in a survival situation a knife might be used as a pry bar, can opener ... who knows what? and in that situation i want something that is the best available to me.

i myself use Striders. yes, they cost more then your average knife but they are worth it! and please remember that were talking about buying a Knife with the sole purpose of being used for Survival and not and EDC knife as anything will do for an EDC Knife.



Outdoors Fanatic said:


> I'd rather have a Bark River Knife & Tool instead of a any Fallkniven any day of week. They are made in the in U.S and come with lifetime warranty. If you can actually break one, they will fix it for free. Just like a Busse.



i would like to comment on this quote. i talked with Bark River and their warranty & Busse's are the same as everyone else's ... Life Time Warranty. sure that's what they say but ask them if prying or hard use is covered? ... NO, that is considered "Abuse" and is Not Covered by their warranty. don't believe me? call any of them and ask. 

Strider Knives are the Only knife co. that i have found to have a True Life Time Warranty! break it ... they'll fix or replace it ... No Questions Asked! hell, they don't even have a warranty card to mail in. i asked Mick about that and his reply ... "Hey, i know that's my knife. why do i need a warranty card?"

just my two cents ... but in the end i hope you find a knife that your happy with and have faith that if called upon to save your life it'll come through with flying colors!


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## adamlau

Joe Talmadge said:


> I favor the Fox River...[a] moderate-sized Bark River is easy to carry and very well manufactured.


Another run of the Fox River is currently produced by BRKT. I am in for two and you guys should be too  .


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## metlarules

I have a Scrapyard scrapper 6 that I use out in the woods. It's the toughest knife that I ever used. Check it out.http://www.scrapyardknives.com/knives.htm


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## Fargus

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> I'd rather have a Bark River Knife & Tool instead of a any Fallkniven any day of week. They are made in the in U.S and come with lifetime warranty. If you can actually break one, they will fix it for free. Just like a Busse. Not to mention that the A2 Tool steel combined with the superb heat treatment done by Mike Stewart of Bark River is much superior to the stainless steel used by the Swedish company.


The S1's (along with several other models) are a laminate design, not one type of steel throughout. The A1 (S1's bigger brother) did extremely well in a torture test at KnifeTests.com. As already mentioned, the Bark River warranty doesn't cover abuse, just manufacturing defects. I like Bark River knives and the people who make them. They are doing a custom handle for my S1. I just didn't find any of their blade styles appealing. I would really have to see some quantitative proof that Bark River's A2 is "much superior" to Fallkniven's VG-10/420J2 laminate. I am curious as to what testing you have done with both types of blade designs? I can cite this thread, where there have been apparent problems with the BRKT goloks. Mike is great in admitting that it is a concern and I'm certain he will figure out what is going on. I eagerly await your presentation of the facts regarding my apparent gross error in purchasing an S1 over a BRKT offering.


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## NA8

Bark River and Fallkniven knives would both get you through a tough time. Mike Stewart obviously has a lot of Bark River knives but it hasn't stopped him from procuring a stainless VG10 laminate Fallkniven NL3 Njord. Bark River also produces some nice custom Fallknivens with their handles and Sharpshooter sheaths. I think I heard a new batch is coming down the pipe sometime soon too. Unfortunately all these babies are getting more expensive these days and they weren't cheap to begin with. 

PS Bark River uses a lot of different steels besides A2 in their various knives. There's a stainless Bravo1 coming up.


----------



## husky20

here's one that i like and just bought http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0ilTWMZnMs


----------



## stitch_paradox

husky20 said:


> here's one that i like and just bought http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0ilTWMZnMs



how do you like it I've been contemplating whether to buy one or not.


----------



## husky20

I bought it online thursday night i googled it and actually found a place that sold them for 87 dollars witch was the best price i could find anywhere. everywhere else was over 100 even ebay. I talked to the guy nutnfancy who did the video he got his from Brigade quartermasters and got the military discount.I havent recieved it yet thinking i will get it next thur or fri in the mail. also bought a really cool lanyard for it to on ebay desert camo with a little skull. heres where i bought mine best price i could find http://www.buymilspec.com/8628.html


----------



## StuToffee

You could certainly do alot worse than a Marine Corps KABAR.
I also have a Becker BK7 & BK9 that get used on occasion, as does my (rather big & heavy - scares the sheeple!!) Swamp Rat Knifeworks Battle Rat.
Oh yeah, I got a couple of Frost Moras, too.


----------



## husky20

Well i got it and just let me say this thing is a beast money well spent love it. :thumbsup:


----------



## NoFair

dd61999 said:


> Bark River Knives
> 
> awesome knives for survival. By the way I believe 4-6 inches is all you need. Especially with a bark river. They can't chop like a big knife but they can get the same job done by batoning.
> 
> Big knives suck, try trail running, mountain biking,rock climbing, skiing,etc... with a big knife


 
+1 one on size and brand:thumbsup:

I'd take a 4-5 inch blade and a folding saw (Silky are very nice) over an 8 inch knife any day. 

Got a few Barkies and I'm very happy with them.






Sverre


----------



## husky20

I would like to see how good you can baton with a 4 or 5 inch blade good luck maybe with puny pieces of wood make a video and post it.and i dont plan on mountain biking or running with my rtak 11 its not what its for i have plenty other knives for that.and no big knives dont suck. and as for skiing i like to do that with my samurai sword.


----------



## NA8

Here's a 4" edge for little girly men to baton with. :devil:

http://lundestudio.com/photos/batacle-148-3.jpg

http://lundestudio.com/photos/batacle-148-2.jpg

Busse Badger Attack TAC Limited Edition (BATAC LE) Satin 0.270-inch INFI blade and TAC Tiger Hide Canvas Micarta Magnum handles. 5" blade ~4" cutting edge.


----------



## husky20

busse's are really nice but if and when i ever buy one i do not think i would ever want to take a 500+knife out to the woods and baton with it.nope just take it outa the safe once and awhile and admire it.


----------



## NA8

Pretty much why I bought a Rat-7 instead of a $500 Satin Jack TAC LE. Nice design and good bang for the buck. Picked up the old collectors' horn handle version for the same price as the factory version.


----------



## husky20

Yea the rat 7 is definitely going to end up in my collection.


----------



## NoFair

husky20 said:


> I would like to see how good you can baton with a 4 or 5 inch blade good luck maybe with puny pieces of wood make a video and post it.and i dont plan on mountain biking or running with my rtak 11 its not what its for i have plenty other knives for that.and no big knives dont suck. and as for skiing i like to do that with my samurai sword.


 
If you are out in the woods trying to survive there is no need to find the large pieces of wood to baton since the smaller ones are easier to find, split and get burning.. 

Sverre


----------



## husky20

whatever i like all kinds of knives and guns big and small.


----------



## Cypher

+1 to RAT Cutlery. I have the RC-3 in OD/Orange G10 and it's awesome. The RC-4 and RC-6 look fantastic as well.


----------



## SnWnMe

The KABAR is still doing a very good job of preparing campground and putting enemies in the ground after all these years.


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic

The incredible* Bark River Bravo -II* is out and it ships for free. Check it out:

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/Bark-....html?osCsid=702b0455b6a3c707b3c643993cf8f020


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic

husky20 said:


> busse's are really nice but if and when i ever buy one i do not think i would ever want to take a 500+knife out to the woods and baton with it.nope just take it outa the safe once and awhile and admire it.


WTF?? That's nonsense! Busse knives are made to take the heaviest punishment possible and laugh at you. 

I'm beating the hell out of my brand new NMFBM and she still shaves like my razor blades. You simply can't destroy these knives without good power tools...


----------



## PonchoTA

If I may be so bold as to jump in, I have a question for the gurus here!

I like the idea of the survival knife with the hollowed out handle so you can put matches and saw and other assorted things plus a metal cap to pound things with a compass on the inside, etc.

Is there one that is particularly well made that you could recommend? Also, what kind of things would you put in the handle? I could definitely see putting a flint, tender, waterproof strike-anywhere matches. What else would fit in there?

Thanks! 
Paul


----------



## SnWnMe

Bonus if it floats too!


----------



## HoopleHead

PonchoTA said:


> If I may be so bold as to jump in, I have a question for the gurus here!
> 
> I like the idea of the survival knife with the hollowed out handle so you can put matches and saw and other assorted things plus a metal cap to pound things with a compass on the inside, etc.
> 
> Is there one that is particularly well made that you could recommend? Also, what kind of things would you put in the handle? I could definitely see putting a flint, tender, waterproof strike-anywhere matches. What else would fit in there?
> 
> Thanks!
> Paul


 

the only knife of that type id recommend are the one piece Chris Reeve knives. read more here - http://www.chrisreeve.com/onepiece.htm

theres a "whats in your spy capsule" thread at edcforums.com that has a great listing of items that fit. also if you find a post of mine there, click on the link in my sig and theres a post with links to a few of the spy capsule threads.

typically hollow handles dont hold up well to abuse. the Chris Reeve one piece knives are the only ones id really trust. id still just recommend a good heavy duty knife and carry a spy capsule on the side instead. have heard that the CR round handles twist a bit in the hand under heavy use.


----------



## SnWnMe

Seriously though, putting all your survival gear in one place is not a good idea. What happens if you lose the knife?:sigh:


----------



## HoopleHead

husky20 said:


> busse's are really nice but if and when i ever buy one i do not think i would ever want to take a 500+knife out to the woods and baton with it.nope just take it outa the safe once and awhile and admire it.


 

:shrug: i just ordered a Busse NM SF Nat Outlaw and plan on beating the hell outta it. thats what it was specifically designed and made for!


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic

HoopleHead said:


> the only knife of that type id recommend are the one piece Chris Reeve knives. read more here - http://www.chrisreeve.com/onepiece.htm
> 
> theres a "whats in your spy capsule" thread at edcforums.com that has a great listing of items that fit. also if you find a post of mine there, click on the link in my sig and theres a post with links to a few of the spy capsule threads.
> 
> typically hollow handles dont hold up well to abuse. the Chris Reeve one piece knives are the only ones id really trust. id still just recommend a good heavy duty knife and carry a spy capsule on the side instead. have heard that the CR round handles twist a bit in the hand under heavy use.


Chris Reeve's "one-piece" knifes are reliable as long as you get the version made with A2 Tool Steel. The S30V models failed miserably.


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic

HoopleHead said:


> :shrug: i just ordered a Busse NM SF Nat Outlaw and plan on beating the hell outta it. thats what it was specifically designed and made for!


Well said!

As Jerry said when Noss said: "Hey Jerry, I'm will be testing a Busse knife and i'm going to abuse it, jus so you know..." Jerry replied: "Oh yeah, go beat the [email protected]$%&! out of that knife!"


----------



## adamlau

I have no problems beating on CGs, but have a hard time doing the same to numbered LEs. I know, I know, I just can't seem to do it  ...


----------



## adamlau

And yes, the CRK integrals are sweet. I have handled Shadows, Projects and Mountaineers and have found the knurling to be first-rate. Cuts well regardless of the relatively low HRC.


----------



## mossyoak

You could stick me out in the woods with any of the following knives, CRK pacific, Bark River mini northstar, or my old standby RAT-3 D2.


----------



## Archie Cruz

I use a Gear Ninja Outdoorsman as an all-around and survival knife. It will chop up to 8" diameter branches. No Log cabin builder though


----------



## cy

one off custom blades are the coolest... but what good is it... if one can't use it? 

opening day....black power is this morning... sure hope I get to break in my new one-off Damascus folder. Maker is John Poythress... late president of The Georgia Custom Knifemakers' Guild. http://www.poythresscustomknives.com/


----------



## cy

happy to report damascus poythress blade works good as it looks. 
field dressed, then later skinned/quartered a deer, including hacking bones.

afterwards... damascus blade was still reasonably sharp! 
fairly certain this is what the maker intended.


----------



## MorpheusT1

CY the user :nana:


I think it is cool that you use all your tools as they were ment to be.
EDC is what its all about.
Even though i try to not get my lights/knifes dirty every time.


----------



## Gary123

I was sorry to let that one go, but I'm really glad you put it to use. That's a high carbon steel damascus. Made for cutting.

So tell me Cy, was that handle comfortable under heavy use like John said he designed it to be?


----------



## cy

yup.. handle on poythress blade was extremely comfortable! 
chunky Sambar stag handle makes for a good hold under slippery conditions. 

ended up skinning entire deer, instead of using my std kitchen butcher knife.


----------



## out5yder

Fargus said:


> The S1's (along with several other models) are a laminate design, not one type of steel throughout. The A1 (S1's bigger brother) did extremely well in a torture test at KnifeTests.com. As already mentioned, the Bark River warranty doesn't cover abuse, just manufacturing defects. I like Bark River knives and the people who make them. They are doing a custom handle for my S1. I just didn't find any of their blade styles appealing. I would really have to see some quantitative proof that Bark River's A2 is "much superior" to Fallkniven's VG-10/420J2 laminate. I am curious as to what testing you have done with both types of blade designs? I can cite this thread, where there have been apparent problems with the BRKT goloks. Mike is great in admitting that it is a concern and I'm certain he will figure out what is going on. I eagerly await your presentation of the facts regarding my apparent gross error in purchasing an S1 over a BRKT offering.



I would suggest you to watch on the same KnifeTests.com site the destruction test for the AK bayonet and then watch the same destruction test for the Fallkniven A1. Just live the rating and watch the videos. You'll see the edge and the tip of the Fallkniven is chipped and consumed during the concrete impacts and you can see the 6 millimeters thick Fallkniven breaking during the body weight test, while the AK bayonet being only 3 millimeters thick and only 3 centimeters wide had no problem with either of these tests.

I have myself a Fallkniven A2 and a Fallkniven u2. While their folders I consider to be very good (stainlessness and high edge retention is all I would expect from a folding knife), as regards the big fixed blade I was constantly dissapointed. The edge is literary consumming during hard use (chips like glass) and the lateral strength is too low for such a thick knife. I have bent the tip of the knife (I repeat: bent, not broken) very easy by trying to dig into wood. The wood had no problem and the (only 2 millimeters deep) stabbed knife tip bent in that wood. I had no such a problem with an AK bayonet. I give this example because these knives are intended to be tactical/military knives.

I don't know how Bark River knives are, because I didn't used them. But I have used a lot of many other knives, including a variety of carbon steels, SK5, stainless steels, INFI, and other steels. As compared to others, I consider the Fallkniven laminated VG10+420J2 steel to be somwhere around the average, but far from the top regarding durability. It is maybe in the top if compared only to other stainless steels. But I think most tough tool steels if properly heat treated are much better for large blades than it.


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic

out5yder said:


> I would suggest you to watch on the same KnifeTests.com site the destruction test for the AK bayonet and then watch the same destruction test for the Fallkniven A1. Just live the rating and watch the videos. You'll see the edge and the tip of the Fallkniven is chipped and consumed during the concrete impacts and you can see the 6 millimeters thick Fallkniven breaking during the body weight test, while the AK bayonet being only 3 millimeters thick and only 3 centimeters wide had no problem with either of these tests.
> 
> I have myself a Fallkniven A2 and a Fallkniven u2. While their folders I consider to be very good (stainlessness and high edge retention is all I would expect from a folding knife), as regards the big fixed blade I was constantly dissapointed. The edge is literary consumming during hard use (chips like glass) and the lateral strength is too low for such a thick knife. I have bent the tip of the knife (I repeat: bent, not broken) very easy by trying to dig into wood. The wood had no problem and the (only 2 millimeters deep) stabbed knife tip bent in that wood. I had no such a problem with an AK bayonet. I give this example because these knives are intended to be tactical/military knives.
> 
> I don't know how Bark River knives are, because I didn't used them. But I have used a lot of many other knives, including a variety of carbon steels, SK5, stainless steels, INFI, and other steels. As compared to others, I consider the Fallkniven laminated VG10+420J2 steel to be somwhere around the average, but far from the top regarding durability. It is maybe in the top if compared only to other stainless steels. But I think most tough tool steels if properly heat treated are much better for large blades than it.


I second that.

While VG-10 is a pretty decent steel for compact folding knives, it is clearly a poor choice for large fixed blades. The A-2 Tool Steel used by Bark River is really TOUGH stuff, very similar to INFI. It outperforms any stainless steel -- including the high-tech steel of month-- I've ever used when it comes to toughness. Those who compare Fallkniven to Busse or Bark River are nuts...


----------



## NA8

You just need to keep it in perspective. Fallkniven's are stainless steel blades. They're good for stain resistance which may be important to some people. The laminate makes the blade stronger (for a stainless steel) but the hard edge isn't for chopping rocks, concrete, pipes, steel folding chairs, etc. On the other hand it's a nice cutter. 

For stainless fans, Bark River is about to release a limited run of stainless Bravo-1 knives in CPM-154. We'll see how tough those are.


----------



## cy

speaking of laminated blades.... this is my deer skinning blade... a one off custom by Newt Livesay. made 15+ years ago with laminated A2 tool steel. you can see the frost line in pic below. red is a carbon fibre disc, silver in handle is 50 peso piece with Sanbar stag.


----------



## ZeissOEM2

WS Woodlore w/Firesteel in sheat


----------



## cy

perhaps this is what one thinks is a survival knife :naughty:

Surefire Strider collaboration with M2 flashlight and Strider fixed blade residing in a Special Ops holster. knife and M2 has matching serial numbers. running P60 LED dropin with 2x 123, considering boring for 18650. in actual use Surefire U2 rides in this holster. 

this is one of the few flashlight/knife holsters combination offered by any mfg. it makes such functional/tactical sense, really surprised more mfg don't offer this combo. 

right after I got this... not a mark on blade... too pristine. went out and hacked some oak just to break in. 
have not skinned a deer with blade... yet...


----------



## XFlash

Great looking combo.
:twothumbs


----------



## philip heap

If I was going on a mission I'd have a granfors mini hatchet, a Laplander saw, a Himalayan import Khukuri and a Reeve Inyoni; and a porter.

In the real world "the best survival knife is the one you're carrying when you need to survive".

Try a Reeve Aviator.


----------



## f22shift

http://www.crkt.com/mak1extrik.html

would this be good?


----------



## :)>

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> The incredible* Bark River Bravo -II* is out and it ships for free. Check it out:
> 
> http://www.knivesshipfree.com/Bark-....html?osCsid=702b0455b6a3c707b3c643993cf8f020


 
I just ordered the Bravo 1 w/the CPM154 steel and the Bravo 2 w/the A2 steel after seeing your's and other's recommendations:thumbsup:

I am looking forward to getting them. One question regarding A2; since it is not stainless, how difficult is it to keep the blade in good condition when outdoors?


----------



## mossyoak

f22shift said:


> http://www.crkt.com/mak1extrik.html
> 
> would this be good?



i played with one at sportsmans warehouse, and was disappointed, the grind is horrible, all on one side and a very blunt it would be a practically useless knife but a decent prybar.


----------



## NoFair

:)> said:


> I just ordered the Bravo 1 w/the CPM154 steel and the Bravo 2 w/the A2 steel after seeing your's and other's recommendations:thumbsup:
> 
> I am looking forward to getting them. One question regarding A2; since it is not stainless, how difficult is it to keep the blade in good condition when outdoors?


 
It gets a patina pretty fast and after that it requires very little upkeep unless used in seawater. Mine is from the first run and looks like this:






It will get surface rust easier before the patina develops, but very little and it is easy to wipe off. 

If you want patina fast just cut some fruit, smear mustard on it or vinegar and wait an hour before washing and drying it. 

All my A2 blades have different shades of grayish blades after a while:






Stainless (laminated) Helle on the right for comparison.

Sverre


----------



## cruisemissile

most people might be well served with an axe (like has been mentioned) or even better with a good multi tool than a simple Rambo knife.

this knife looks interesting, its even got a bottle opener.
the Dark Ops Interceptor


----------



## mossyoak

cruisemissile said:


> most people might be well served with an axe (like has been mentioned) or even better with a good multi tool than a simple Rambo knife.
> 
> this knife looks interesting, its even got a bottle opener.
> the Dark Ops Interceptor



now thats a survival knife. i bet thats like what real commandos use.


----------



## Guy's Dropper

Lol! :duh2: I'd rather have a dull axe.


----------



## :)>

NoFair said:


> It gets a patina pretty fast and after that it requires very little upkeep unless used in seawater. Mine is from the first run and looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will get surface rust easier before the patina develops, but very little and it is easy to wipe off.
> 
> If you want patina fast just cut some fruit, smear mustard on it or vinegar and wait an hour before washing and drying it.
> 
> All my A2 blades have different shades of grayish blades after a while:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stainless (laminated) Helle on the right for comparison.
> 
> Sverre


 
Excellent information and pictures! Thank you!


----------



## StuToffee

mossyoak said:


> now thats a survival knife. i bet thats like what real commandos use.


 
Yeah! Well, THATS what I carried (stapped upside down to my webbing, of course!) when I served with the SAS on the raid on Entebbe airport.

I walked away from that one smiling!


----------



## mossyoak

That's a knife that bear grylls uses


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic

mossyoak said:


> That's a knife that bear grylls uses


Bear Grylls use mostly cheap Gerber POS knives.


----------



## cruisemissile

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> Bear Grylls use mostly cheap Gerber POS knives.


 
bear grylls has used a couple difft knives, but the latest one he has is a fixed blade which is specially branded. marketing is alive and well, eh?
its ridiculously expensive in my opinion. made by bayley knives
http://www.bayleyknife.com/images/bear_01_hd.jpg
at 350 pounds sterling (which is like um, $1000 U.S. given our rather weak dollar, ..exaggerated of course), alot for a little knife.
the blade is short, I think to comply with the laws of some of the foreign countries he goes to. on the show he does beat the hell out of it.
I wonder though if he gets a new knife every episode or if they employ a professional "sharpener" or knife-caretaker to keep it tip-top.
I would much rather fork out that much $ for a Randall.


----------



## mossyoak

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> Bear Grylls use mostly cheap Gerber POS knives.



I was a joke and dork ops are the worst knives ever made.


----------



## NA8

Ok, to brighten things up a bit, here's a new knife on the way that is yet another reasonable consideration for a tough survival knife. 

http://www.chestnutridgeknifeshop.c...d=636&osCsid=395f6121411546d9adae45ceb5964cfe

Bow Drill Divot ? Gotta luv it.


----------



## cruisemissile

StuToffee said:


> Yeah! Well, THATS what I carried (stapped upside down to my webbing, of course!) when I served with the SAS on the raid on Entebbe airport.
> 
> I walked away from that one smiling!


 
hmmm, 
1) Raid on Entebbe was 1974
2) Dark Ops didn't come into existence until recently (2 or 3 years, not sure exactly, but much much later than 1974)
3) Entebbe raid was carried out by Israeli commandos, I didn't think U.K. SAS was involved.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operation_Entebbe

Are you sure you carried a Dark Ops knife (did you use a DeLorean time machine or something?) at Entebbe?


----------



## mossyoak

cruisemissile said:


> hmmm,
> 1) Raid on Entebbe was 1974
> 2) Dark Ops didn't come into existence until recently (2 or 3 years, not sure exactly, but much much later than 1974)
> 3) Entebbe raid was carried out by Israeli commandos, I didn't think U.K. SAS was involved.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operation_Entebbe
> 
> Are you sure you carried a Dark Ops knife (did you use a DeLorean time machine or something?) at Entebbe?



Dude I can vouch for him I was there with the commandos


----------



## StuToffee

Darn! You found me out!:devil:





cruisemissile said:


> hmmm,
> 1) Raid on Entebbe was 1974
> 2) Dark Ops didn't come into existence until recently (2 or 3 years, not sure exactly, but much much later than 1974)
> 3) Entebbe raid was carried out by Israeli commandos, I didn't think U.K. SAS was involved.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operation_Entebbe
> 
> Are you sure you carried a Dark Ops knife (did you use a DeLorean time machine or something?) at Entebbe?


----------



## cy

hate to point out the obvious... but the best knife is the one on your person when an emergency occurs. 

this strikes out most of the sheath knives pictured in this thread 

the knife most likely to be used for survival is your normal EDC. which is almost always on my person. if I've got pants on... my Damascus folder is clipped in.


----------



## cruisemissile

StuToffee said:


> Darn! You found me out!:devil:


 
maybe you meant to say "I was 'going commando' at Aunt Ebbe's ", at least that was MossyOak's version. 
then again, what's CPF without a few tall tales?


----------



## Monocrom

mossyoak said:


> I was a joke and dork ops are the worst knives ever made.


 
*+1*
** 
I'd rather be stranded in the woods with a rusty spatula than a Dork Ops knife.


----------



## cruisemissile

Monocrom said:


> *+1*
> 
> I'd rather be stranded in the woods with a rusty spatula than a Dork Ops knife.


 
glad I never got one. they got good marketing and glossy ads, though.!


----------



## Monocrom

cruisemissile said:


> glad I never got one. they got good marketing and glossy ads, though.!


 
Actually, their marketing is crappy too. Designed to appeal to mall ninjas. I recall they had a neck-knife once that was advertised as being great for "de-animating a terrorist." (Or some such BS along those lines).


----------



## cruisemissile

Monocrom said:


> Actually, their marketing is crappy too. Designed to appeal to mall ninjas. I recall they had a neck-knife once that was advertised as being great for "de-animating a terrorist." (Or some such BS along those lines).


 
its interesting that unlike all the $ "dork ops" spends on ads, Randall knives, spends almost zero on ads, it seems like, but t hey have a five year waiting list.
their brochures are not very impressive, and their website is very plain.
I actually went to the Randall factory in Orlando and its totally underwhelming as you drive up. it looks like someones house, the driveway is dirt, if I recall correctly and there's really no paved parking.
you ask yourself "am I in the right place?"
but sure enough, they make awesome knives that have been carried by generals, astronauts, royalty and presidents, as well as real deal warriors.
so, I have 8 more months to wait for one Randall bowie, but another 3 1/2 for a #2.


----------



## Monocrom

cruisemissile said:


> so, I have 8 more months to wait for one Randall bowie, but another 3 1/2 for a #2.


 
Ouch! 

Still, very understandable. When you have a reputation for greatness, no need to be flashy. 

Choices are, either pay a huge premium to buy a pre-owned Randall; or wait 5 long years. Once again, ouch!


----------



## rotncore

RAT RC4. Simple, tough, not too expensive, and backed by a Surefire like warranty. I have one on the way with an orange G10 handle, and leather sheath with a fire steel slot.

In Canada, if you are chopping trees, bring an axe. I also have a Camillus era Becker BK10 with a custom kydex sheath, but it's too big for general camp use, and I'm getting sick of pulling up my pants on hikes to use it regularly.

I can see the appeal of big knives, they're cool, they look deadly, and with a higher register ring they are marketed heavily. But give me a solid bushcraft inspired smaller blade any day over the boutique waiting list demi-swords.


----------



## Egsise

More info


----------



## NA8

rotncore said:


> I can see the appeal of big knives, they're cool, they look deadly, and with a higher register ring they are marketed heavily. But give me a solid bushcraft inspired smaller blade any day over the boutique waiting list demi-swords.



Could depend where you're going. A "sharpened prybar" might be useful if you need to pry something off your head or leg. 

http://jasperwildlife.com/Fatal-Bear-Attacks-in-North-America-Jasper-Wildlife.html

http://www.truckerfun.com/images/alaska-grizzly-bear-notice.jpg

http://images.smarter.com/blogs/grizzly.jpg


http://www.grizzlyflatsca.com/strategy.htm

http://photos.viczhang.com/images/20050923011905_20050926-mountain-lion-2.jpg

http://www.saddlemountainoutfitters.com/images/2007/mountainlion9.jpg


----------



## oronocova

Wonder if anyone has used one of these? I really like the design/look and it looks very useful. Just an all around good looking knife IMO. A little more than I am willing to spend, maybe someone else has some input as to whether or not it is actually a good buy / good knife.


----------



## rotncore

NA8 said:


> Could depend where you're going. A "sharpened prybar" might be useful if you need to pry something off your head or leg.
> 
> http://jasperwildlife.com/Fatal-Bear-Attacks-in-North-America-Jasper-Wildlife.html
> 
> http://www.truckerfun.com/images/alaska-grizzly-bear-notice.jpg
> 
> http://images.smarter.com/blogs/grizzly.jpg
> 
> 
> http://www.grizzlyflatsca.com/strategy.htm
> 
> http://photos.viczhang.com/images/20050923011905_20050926-mountain-lion-2.jpg
> 
> http://www.saddlemountainoutfitters.com/images/2007/mountainlion9.jpg



The shortest piece of steel I want in that case is my 12.5" barrel pump shotgun. Never take a knife to a bear fight.


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## mbassoc2003

I have a couple. On the whole, when in the woods, I carry either a RAT 3 or a Gerber LMF. Not yet decided on which one I would bug out with. I have a last resort ditch kit packed into a Maxpedition F1 with a Fallkniven U2, Wenger EvoGrip 18 and Zebralight H20 in it, amongst the more regular items in an SK.


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## HoopleHead

Halp!

I'd like a multi-purpose camp knife with a 4-6" blade, ideally right ~5". Must have a small guard at least. Should have a thick spine.

Right now I've narrowed it down to:
- Chris Reeve Shadow IV
- RAT Cutlery RC-5 SERE
- Strider MT/Model 10 Sniper
- Busse Combat Badger Attack BATACLE (the .25" thick version)

I've tried the Bravo-1 (A2) and didn't like the fit and finish at all. The Gameskeeper II looked like it would fit the bill but based on the Bravo-1 (and contrary to all the Bark River recs) I'm a bit hesitant.

Which of these would you recommend? How does 1095 steel hold up, does it require a lot of maintenance? Any other comparable recs?

Thanks


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## NoFair

Most of my BRKT knives have had good fit and finish (not perfect though) and they fixed the bad one up for free.

Tried the Spyderco Dayhiker? About the right size...

http://www.knifeworks.com/spydercodayhikergreencontouredmicartahandleplainedge.aspx


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## HoopleHead

HoopleHead said:


> Halp!
> 
> I'd like a multi-purpose camp knife with a 4-6" blade, ideally right ~5". Must have a small guard at least. Should have a thick spine.
> 
> Right now I've narrowed it down to:
> - Chris Reeve Shadow IV
> - RAT Cutlery RC-5 SERE
> - Strider MT/Model 10 Sniper
> - Busse Combat Badger Attack BATACLE (the .25" thick version)
> 
> I've tried the Bravo-1 (A2) and didn't like the fit and finish at all. The Gameskeeper II looked like it would fit the bill but based on the Bravo-1 (and contrary to all the Bark River recs) I'm a bit hesitant.
> 
> Which of these would you recommend? How does 1095 steel hold up, does it require a lot of maintenance? Any other comparable recs?
> 
> Thanks


 

Any other recs? I don't really want a recurve blade. I think my list is now:

- Busse Satin Jack
- Chris Reeve Shadow IV, maybe another Chris Reeve as I'm not sure if I want the one piece
- Busse Badger Attack (thick, non-TAC version)
- RAT Cutlery RC-5 SERE, maybe the RC-4
- Scrap Yard Dumpster Mutt (although I'd probably just get a Busse)


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## TMorita

HoopleHead said:


> Any other recs? I don't really want a recurve blade. I think my list is now:
> 
> - Busse Satin Jack
> - Chris Reeve Shadow IV, maybe another Chris Reeve as I'm not sure if I want the one piece
> - Busse Badger Attack (thick, non-TAC version)
> - RAT Cutlery RC-5 SERE, maybe the RC-4
> - Scrap Yard Dumpster Mutt (although I'd probably just get a Busse)



Ka-bar Becker BK2 (5" long blade, .25" thick IIRC)

Toshi


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## funkymonkey1111

cruisemissile said:


> its interesting that unlike all the $ "dork ops" spends on ads, Randall knives, spends almost zero on ads, it seems like, but t hey have a five year waiting list.
> their brochures are not very impressive, and their website is very plain.
> I actually went to the Randall factory in Orlando and its totally underwhelming as you drive up. it looks like someones house, the driveway is dirt, if I recall correctly and there's really no paved parking.
> you ask yourself "am I in the right place?"
> but sure enough, they make awesome knives that have been carried by generals, astronauts, royalty and presidents, as well as real deal warriors.
> so, I have 8 more months to wait for one Randall bowie, but another 3 1/2 for a #2.


 
well, did you get your randall?


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## imgadgetman

I carry a machete along with a Cold Steel Master Hunter. The sharpest machete I have found is the Condor available at SMKW.com. I have the Inca with 12 inch blade and the 18 inch. I love mine for cutting paths and chopping small trees. imgadgetman


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