# Easiest way to sharpen a Leatherman/SAK



## KevinL (Nov 7, 2004)

I've been doing a little bit of reading about knife sharpening, but most of it seems to pertain to the higher end knives. 

Forgive me for being a total knife newbie, but I'm looking for the easiest way to sharpen a Leatherman Micra or SAK blade. The blades are so dull that I can run a finger up and down them and nothing will happen to the finger. Even opening those nice Global Priority packages from CPFers is becoming a chore. 

I've already succeeded in messing up with a 'sharpening stone' - fat lot of good that did me other than take metal off it. I'll probably need a few words of wisdom on technique as well as you can see mine is obviously lacking /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif


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## BF Hammer (Nov 7, 2004)

Since you are not comfortable with using a stone and it is a lower-end SAK type blade, maybe you should try one of the carbide v-notch type sharpeners. I have had one similar this one for years and it works fine on a cheaper knife blade. Your local Lowes/Home Depot/hardware store surely has a similar item somewhere inside. Four or five strokes should restore an edge to your knife.

As for learning to use a stone, google yields a lot of information for using a stone. I would recommend using an old, junky kitchen knife to practice on before moving on to a good knife.


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## TOB9595 (Nov 7, 2004)

Hi Kevin, The sharpening of a blade does not differ from a cost of a knife. 
Sadly there is no magic wand to sharpen a dull knife. If the blades had a useable edge I'd say use the sharpmaker and it'll bring the edge to very sharp in a short time.
But with the edge you have; it'll take many hours to sharpen with the Sharpmaker /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Edge geometry is what you need to know about. I have difficulty putting an edge on a blade freehand. I suggest that you get a guide of some sort.
With the blades being so dull you will need to put some time on the sharpening process.
For this I suggest the Lansky or Gatco Knife Sharpening Systems. I have a Lansky five stone. I'd use extra Coarse and fine on the edge you describe. I rarely use any of the other stones. Finished off with a stropping on cardboard. Cardboard since you don't have a leather strop /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I use DMT diamond stones to take a bit of metal off as the diamond stone is more aggressive than the stones supplied with the basic Lansky. 
BUT you can do quite well with what is in the kit /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I suggest the Lansky as it is a system that clamps the blade in a holder that has preset guide angles. The Lansky has a base that you set the guide in and can put it on a table for a firm base. I haven't used the Gatco guided system but it's probably similar.

When you get the edge back on the blades (Leatherman is a tuff stainless) you can maintain the edge with a simple crockstick setup in a base. I prefer the Spyderco 204MF for this maintaining of blades. The spyderco contacts more of a blade surface than a round crockstick and has edges to sharpen serrations, like for the Leatherman Wave.
If you are like me and want to really know what and why you are doing what you are with sharpening /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I recommend reading stuff on EDGE GEOMETRY.
After many years of reading all sorts of stuff on edges I most recommend 
RAZOREDGE BOOK OF SHARPENING
I read this only a few years ago and it put all the stuff I've previously read into perspective. I now sharpen better than I ever have. Wish I read the book 30 years ago..hahahaha

DO NOT blow off the info on the burr. this is key to getting an edge. Blade steel also matters in how the edge holds up to real use.

I use the Lansky, free standing stones, Sharpmaker, Gatco Dogbone in the field, leather strop. And use my jeans, cardboard or leather to remove the wire edge. 
All of which is greek to you till you read up a bit.
I also have the electric sharpener that is mentioned on the Ameritech site. But shhhhh about that as Knife afficionados sneer at anything electric /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Some links to info
Ameritech: Sharpening made easy 
Cliff Stamp  
BladeForums.Com Sharpening FAQ 
RAZOREDGE BOOK OF SHARPENING

With all this said /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I can get a lovely edge on a dulled Leatherman Wave in less than an hour. It will take you a tad longer till you gain the experience and pleasure of sharpening.
Did you know that it is a common occurance to receive a high end or any other "expensive" blade that has a "dull' edge right out of the box?
It's true.
I've received hand made knives, production knives, and inexpensive knives that do not have a good edge on them!
Two of the best, inexpensive, knives for a GREAT edge is CRKT and Kershaw.

Hope this doesn't confuse you but there's technique and knowledge needed for everything /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

OH Yeah! One final thing.
When you do get the edge you want. Maintain the edge and it'll be a thirty second process /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

If you don't have the desire or time to read up on what you're doing.....
Buy a replacement knife for the Leatherman/SAK and then buy the Spyderco Sharpmaker 204MF and keep the blade edge maintained.
I suspect that all the knives you have are dull. Kitchen, utility, whatever need a sharp edge. A sharp edge is much safer and easier to cut with than a dull blade.
Tom


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## TOB9595 (Nov 7, 2004)

OOPS, all that and I see you want to sharpen a micra.
Duh! on me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Get the triangular thing that BFhammer mentioned and you'll be good to go.

Here's a safe one 

Where ever you are...even over there /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
You'll be able to find the carbide sharpeners.

Tom


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## Skyline (Nov 7, 2004)

Tom gives good advice. I started with the Lansky and switched to the Sharpmaker. I found the Lansky to be pretty tedious to use, and for some reason, I could never get the razor sharpness from it that I can get from the Sharpmaker! However, the Lansky is a good one to start with as a novice. Plus, if you have any Tanto blades, the Lansky is about the only sharpening tool that won't ruin the geometry.

For touchups, the Sharpmaker is really nice.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## Frangible (Nov 7, 2004)

I have two knife sharpeners; the Spyderco sharpmaker, which I found is nearly impossible for me to use, and a Rediedge "tactical" V-carbide type sharpener. The Rediedge is extremely easy to use and has put a hell of an edge on almost everything I've passed through it. I've seen no ill effects on the blades.


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## Skyline (Nov 7, 2004)

Why did you have difficulty with the Sharpmaker? This is going to sound silly, but did you watch the video? It's pretty easy to use.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## Frangible (Nov 7, 2004)

I don't have a VHS player, so no. I read the manual though.


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## Skyline (Nov 7, 2004)

Can you describe the particular trouble you had with the Sharpmaker? Maybe we can help!

Btw, I'm looking into the Rediedge you mention. Interesting tool!


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## Skyline (Nov 7, 2004)

Interesting thread at BFC about V sharpeners:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290439


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## PhilElmore (Nov 7, 2004)

*A Relatively Simple Sharpening Guide*


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## Zackerty (Nov 7, 2004)

Phil,
welcome to Flashlight Anonimouse!!
I have been reading your website since it started. Keep up the Way! Controlled Madness. hey !!!
What I would like to add, if you will allow that, is to do exactly what you do to sharpen, but to REST a wedge made of wood or micarta, whatever, to your stone at the begining of each "cut". Rest the blade on the wedge, and follow thru' and "slice" the top of the stone, away from you.
The wedge must made to the angle that you require, and while it is fiddly to move each time, the angle is easier to start for anyone who is unfamiliar with sharpening. I include a little wedge with each knife that I sell.
Stu


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## sotto (Nov 7, 2004)

Phil:

Nice summary on sharpening./ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif I'm an Arkansas stone fanatic.

I had to smile when I looked at your image under Diamond Pads where you are slicing toward your own fingers. It violates a basic tenet of knife use, "Never cut toward yourself." I'm sure you know what you're doing, but personally I had to learn this the hard way once. When I use my diamond pads or arkie stones I just wet a paper towel slightly and set the stone on that. It doesn't slip around and you can bear down a bit with both hands on the knife if you want. This is particularly useful with bigger chef type knives.


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## d'mo (Nov 7, 2004)

I love my Lansky sharpeners. They're very simple to use and a complete kit is under $30.


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## PhilElmore (Nov 7, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
I had to smile when I looked at your image under Diamond Pads where you are slicing toward your own fingers. It violates a basic tenet of knife use, "Never cut toward yourself."

[/ QUOTE ]

I always hear my father's instructions when he gave me my first jackknife -- "Cut away from yourself." Problem is, to move the blade away on both sides would mean I'd have to be able to sharpen one-side left-handed, which I don't do well.


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## KevinL (Nov 8, 2004)

Tom: No worries, that is good information. I'm aware that there are two ways to do things, the quick and easy way, and the proper way, which takes time and patience to master. I'll give the device that you and BFHammer recommended a try before moving onto the more advanced stuff. 

Phil: thanks for the link, that is a very good guide that presents the subject in an easy to understand manner. The pictures of the SAK being sharpened are great, now I know where to start.


Update: Wow, what a difference pictures and techniques make! I went back to the silicon carbide stone after reading Phil's guide because I didn't have time to look for the sharpening device, and even in untrained hands, the knife performs a LOT better than it used to! 

SiC - it's not just for LEDs any more /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif


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## Steve C (Nov 8, 2004)

That's a well thought-out and well-written tutorial... but have any of you guys tried the Spyderco 204 SharpMaker?

This tool allows even a klutz like me to get a hair-popping edge, be it plain or serrated. I use mine to maintain my three main working knives; the blade on an original Leatherman, an SAK that I got for a graduation present (in 1969!), and an older Spyderco Endura serrated folder.

The techniques Phil shows require you to maintain angles while using the stones and hones. To me, this is the secret of the black art of free-hand blade sharpening. You can either do it, or you cannot. Most (me included) cannot.

The 204 eliminates all of that. You simply maintain the edge perpendicular to the base of the tool and let it do the work.

And it comes in a self-contained case; much less to keep up with.

I'm not criticising Phil's efforts here; just offering another option.


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## PhilElmore (Nov 8, 2004)

Even the Sharpmaker takes some technique in order to use it properly (drawing the knife consistently against the angled edge and following the curve of the blade properly), but you're right, it's a lot easier. I like angled crock sticks and sharpeners like the Sharpmaker for honing very long blades.


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## KevinL (Nov 21, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
*TOB9595 said:*

Some links to info
Ameritech: Sharpening made easy 


[/ QUOTE ]

Mom still knows best... out comes the Chef's Choice 450 manual sharpener (as recommended by the link), and five minutes later my SAK and Micra are sharper than the day they shipped. Maybe not 'perfection' sharp like some of the pros can do by hand, but more than sharp enough for a klutz like me who just needs it to be useable. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Highly recommended.. if a total n00b can use it, so can anybody else /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif


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## PhilElmore (Nov 21, 2004)

One note of warning, while on the topic of sharpening: Stay away from those angled sharpening gizmos that involve a couple of bits of tungsten through which you're supposed to draw your blade. These little torture devices will chew up a blade in a hurry and leave a very poor edge.


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