# Klarus XT11 (XM-L U2 - 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO+



## selfbuilt (Mar 7, 2012)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *

_*UPDATE JUNE 5, 2014:* I have recently reviewed a revised version of this model for 2014. Please continue all discussion in that thread, thank you._











The XT11 is an updated version of the XT10 that I reviewed previously. Let's see what this revised model sports … 

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:*

CREE XM-L (U2) LED 
Three lighting modes and 1 flashing mode
600 ANSI lumens (2.2 hrs)
150 lumens (7.3 hrs)
10 lumens (295 hrs)
Variable frequency strobe: 600 lumens (4.4 hrs)
Working Voltage: 3.4V-8.4V
Battery: 2x CR123A / 1x 18650 / 2x 16340 (use of 16340 batteries is not recommended)
Body color: Military grey
Reflector: Textured orange peel reflector
Tactical main switch for turning the light on and off. Momentary activation from off.
Dedicated mode switch for instant access to strobe and changing modes
Lens: Toughened ultra-clear glass
Material: Aircraft grade aluminum
Dimensions: 148mm (Length) x 34.9 mm (Head) x 25.4mm (Body) x 26.2mm( Tail)
Net weight: 132g (Excluding battery)
Waterproof to IPX-8 Standard (underwater to 2 meters)
Included accessories: holster, lanyard, body clip, tactical ring and two spare o-rings
MSRP: ~$85






Packaging has been updated, now in a new format clearly intended for store shelf display. As before, the light comes with a good number of extras. Along the light you will find a manual, spare o-rings, spare boot cover, decent wrist strap, pocket clip (attached), and belt holster (with closing flap). A removable plastic grip ring is also included on the light.









From left to right: Redilast 18650; Klarus XT10, XT11; Rofis JR20; Sunwayman V20C; Thrunite TN10; Foursevens X7 Maelstrom.

All dimensions are given with no batteries installed:

*Klarus XT11*: Weight 133.0g, Length: 148.8, Width (bezel) 35.0mm
*Klarus XT10*: Weight 121.3g, Length: 144.8, Width (bezel) 34.9mm
*Sunwayman V20C:* Weight: 117.4g, Length 133.0mm, Width (bezel) 32.2mm
*JetBeam RRT-21:* Weight: 137.3g, Length143.3 mm, Width (bezel) 33.8mm
*Lumintop TD-15X*: Weight 150.3g, Length 147.3mm, Width (bezel): 37.8mm

The XT11 is slightly longer and heavier than the earlier model, but you would only notice side-by-side. Overall size remains about typical for this class of light.














As before, I quite like the look of these Klarus lights. The anodizing remains a rich dark grey-brown color, even darker on my XT11 sample (type III = HA). As before, no blemishes or flaws on my sample. The excellent anodizing seems very similar to some of my Sunwayman lights. :thumbsup: 

Labels are not very bright, but clearly legible against the dark background. The main XT11 body labels seem somewhat crooked on my sample, though. 

There are some slight changes to the tube pattern (i.e. finger grip wells are gone), but overall styling is very similar. As before, knurling is not very aggressive. But with all the ridge detail and extra, overall grip is fine. 

There is now a spring in the head, so all flat-top high capacity cells should fit and work fine in the light.

Another new feature that I quite like is the removable stainless steel bezel ring. Slightly crenelated as before, the ring can be removed and an optional set of colored filters or a diffuser can be screwed on instead. This is my preferred way of using a removable diffuser. :twothumbs

Screw threads appear identical to before (e.g., you can screw on the old tailcap), and are traditional triangular-cut. Tailcap threads are anodized for lock-out. 

The most distinctive part of the light remains the dual-switch control in the tailcap. This looks and functions as before. The main on/off switch is the larger, circular, protruding one (forward clicky switch, typical feel). The smaller recessed semi-circular one is an electronic mode-changing switch (slightly firmer feel than most electronic switches, definite click on activation). Both are can be accessed one-handed by the thumb or index finger, in an over-hand tactical grip

Light cannot tailstand, despite the raised areas for the lanyard attachment.

The clip-on pocket clip is fairly basic, but my sample seems to be holding on fairly well. Like before, the clip is head-facing, and not reversible. 

The grip ring has changed, and is now a hard plastic with holes for lanyard attachment. You no longer need to remove the o-ring to get the grip ring on/off. I typically prefer rubber grip rings, which are easiest on the fingers.

*User Interface*

User interface is unchanged from the XT10. Press the large forward clicky switch for on-off (press for momentary, click for locked-on).

Change modes by pressing the smaller electronic switch. Mode sequence is Hi – Med – Lo, in a repeating loop. Press and hold the mode-changing switch to activate Strobe.

Note that Strobe can be activated directly from Off by pressing the secondary switch. I haven't measured it, but this suggests that a standby current must be present when the tailcap is fully tightened.

There is no memory mode – the light always comes on in Hi mode.

For a more detailed examination of the build and user interface, please see my video overview: :wave:



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration icon in the lower right-hand corner, and select the higher 480p to 720p options, or even run full-screen. 

*PWM/Strobe*

Lo:





Med:





Hi:





As before, the XT11 uses PWM of just under 1 kHz. PWM is an apparently unavoidable by-product of having a tailcap control circuit combined with a head circuit. :shrug: At least the frequency is high enough not to be visually distracting, like on some other lights.

Another side-effect is that PWM is again present on the Hi mode (confirmed on all battery sources). You are very unlikely to notice it, however, as the light is "on" almost the entire cycle (i.e., PWM is much more noticeable at low duty rates).






I also observed some variable high frequency noise, especially on the low modes.






Strobe uses the oscillating format popular on "tactical" strobes lately. It is unchanged from the XT, with a strobe frequency that switches between 15 Hz and 6 Hz every ~2 secs. Definitely very annoying, as intended. :green:

Interesting feature that you can directly activate it from off, by pressing the secondary mode switch.

*Standby drain*

Since the secondary switch is an electronic switch (that can be activated from Off), there needs to be a standby current when the tailcap is fully connected. Measuring it is a little more complicated than usual, given the need to have the tailcap in the current path.

_*UPDATE March 12, 2012:* I've gone and measured it now, and the most stable reading I obtained was ~1.4 uA on a fully charged 18650. Seeing as how that translates into a couple of centuries for most 18650 cells, I don't think we need to worry about it much. _:thumbsup:

*Beamshots:*










The OP reflector looks the same as before, with a well-centered XM-L emitter on my sample. I would expect a comparable beam pattern to the XT10.

And now the white-wall beamshots.  All lights are on max output, on AW protected 1x18650. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 





























































_Note that the above are all on 1x18650._ There is not really a huge difference on Hi on 1x18650, but you can see a bump in output. I discovered in my detailed testing that the XT11 is considerably brighter on 2x battery sources. Scroll down for more info … 

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have recently devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lighbox values to Lumens thread for more info.

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Effective March 2012, I have updated the Max Output ANSI FL-1 lumen estimates to represent peak output measured at 30 secs (my earlier gray tables were based on a later time point for Max output). Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables.
















The reported 600 ANSI FL-1 lumen spec for the XT11 presumably refers to 1x18650. Note that Klarus does not specify what battery ANSI FL-1 is based on – only that 1x18650, 2xCR123A and 2xRCR are all supported (with 2xRCR not recommended). 

In my testing, the 1x18650 mode is an estimated ~550 ANSI FL-1 lumens initially (estimated ~370 lumens after step-down at 3 mins). In contrast, 2xRCR and 2xCR123A were an estimated ~750 ANSI FL-1 lumens and ~700 ANSI FL-1 lumens, respectively, initially (with a common estimated ~530 lumens right after step-down at 3mins). oo:

So, while output has definitely increased on 1x18650 compared to the XT10, the take-home message is that the XT11 is a lot brighter on 2x battery sources (with correspondingly lower runtime than the XT10).

Throw is reasonable for the class and output levels.

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*
























As before, the XT11 steps down on Hi after 3 mins runtime, on all batteries tested. This has become a fairly common feature on a number of heavily-driven lights, to protect against overheating. Initial max output can be re-obtained by simply clicking the light off-on.

While the TX11 is measurably brighter than the XT10 on 1x18650 (both initially and after step-down), the real difference can be seen on 2x battery sources. 

As before, the light is fully regulated on 2xRCR on Hi – but the XT11 is now much brighter than the XT10, both initially and after step-down. On 2xCR123A, the XT11 is not able to maintain regulation very long once step-down occurs, and quickly drops down in output (compared to the lower output – but stabilized - XT10). 

FYI, the XT11 easily matches my Thrunite TN10/TN11/Scorpion V2 as the most heavily-driven light I've seen on 2x battery sources (at least initially). oo: This presumably explains why 2xRCR is not recommended by the manufacturer.

On Medium, the XT11 is comparable in output to the XT10 when run on 1x18650 (but with longer runtime on my sample). My ANSI FL-1 lumen estimate for the XT10 on Med is ~140, which is in keeping with the manufacturer specs.

Note that on 2xRCR on Medium (~200 estimated lumens on my sample), the XT11 is again brighter than on 1x18650. This is also brighter than the XT10 (~100 estimated lumens). 

Runtime performance is quite acceptable, and very consistent with reported ANSI FL-1 specs on 1x18650. :thumbsup: However, on 2x battery sources, overall efficiency seems toward the lower end of this class of high-output lights.

*Potential Issues*

As before, the light uses PWM on all modes (including Hi) at a detectable, but not visually-distracting 1 kHz. 

Light lacks a memory mode, and always comes on in Hi.

Light uses an electronic tail switch, and therefore requires a stand-by current when fully connected. However, I have measured it at the negligible level of 1.4uA on an 18650 cell. At that level, it would take centuries to fully drain your typical 18650. 

Output is higher – and runtime lower - on 2x battery sources compared to the 1x18650 specs. Note that 2xRCR is not recommended by the manufacturer.

The mode-changing switch may be a bit difficult to access, especially if you have gloves on.

My sample had audible hum on all levels, on all batteries (although worse on some modes than others). While not as distracting as some lights I've tested, it was more noticeable than typical on my one sample. Note that inductor whine (the presumed source of these hums) can be highly variable, so there is no guarantee on what you will receive. Most lights experience some degree of hum on certain outputs modes/voltage sources.

*Preliminary Observations*

The XT11 is a nice upgrade to the XT10.  Max output has increased (measurably on 1x18650, considerably on 2x battery sources), and there are a few nice build updates.

As before, I like the look and feel of the XT11. It is a solid light, well balanced in the hand, with excellent quality anodizing (as before, very Sunwayman-like in color). :thumbsup:

The distinctive dual-switch tailcap design and user interface is unchanged (i.e., you can easily change modes without altering your hand grip). The UI is clearly designed for the "tactical" crowd, as the light always comes on in Hi mode. A disorienting oscillating strobe is also available by a single press, directly from both off and on. 

The XT11 still uses PWM on all modes (including Hi), but it remains at a reasonably high level so as not to be distracting (~1 kHz). PWM seems to be a necessary feature of the light, given the dual-control circuits (i.e. one in the head, one in the tailcap). 

As I mentioned above, this is a nice upgrade to the "tactically-focused" XT10 – but whether you find it an incremental or a significant upgrade depends on how you plan to use the light. On 1x18650, the difference in output or runtime may not be too noticeable to you (i.e. ~30% more Hi output initially, but less of a difference over time). On 2xCR123A/RCR, expect a considerable increase in initial output (~55-65% more on Hi) - but for a concomitant decrease in overall runtime. 

This makes the XT11 one of the brightest 2xRCR/CR123A lights in my collection at the moment - it matches the Thrunite TN10/11 and Scorpion V2 for the top spot. This presumably explains why 2xRCR is supported but not recommended by Klarus (i.e., that's a lot of heat). For those of you for whom the ~450 lumens on the XT10 was plenty, the reduction in runtime on the XT11's >700 lumens on 2xCR123A/RCR may be an issue. :shrug: 

Either way, I like the extra build touches on the XT11 – especially the stainless steel bezel ring (with optional filters/diffusers that you can screw on). The XT10 was always a good light for the tactical crowd, and the XT11 has added some nice touches. The extra output is probably what captures most people's attention, so please check out my summary tables and runtime graphs above for more info on the expected output and runtime on the various batteries. :wave:

_*UPDATE JUNE 5, 2014:* I have recently reviewed a revised version of this model for 2014. Please continue all discussion in that thread, thank you._

----

Klarus XT11 provided by goinggear.com for review.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 7, 2012)

Anyone wondering why I've updated my summary tables in blue? 

Back in November 2010, I revised all the summary tables in my reviews to match the (relatively new at that time) ANSI/NEMA FL-1 2009 standard for flashlight testing. This standard was finally starting to be used by many flashlight makers, as it provides a standardized way to compare characteristics across lights. I suggest you check out the Flashlight Wiki entry on ANSI/NEMA FL-1 for more info on the standard.

As the ANSI/NEMA FL-1 Standards are a copyrighted and protected document, I was initially relying on published public reports by various manufacturers on the standards' specifics. It turns out these weren't quite entirely accurate for max output. I have since purchased a copy of the FL-1 standards, and can confirm that _all_ output/throw testing does takes place within 30-120 secs after activation. 

As you might imagine, manufacturers will typically pick the time that best suits them (likely 30 secs for output/throw measures). Although I always did throw/beam distance measures this way, I was originally reporting the max output column in those tables at between 2.5 mins to 3 mins post-activation. Effective March 2012, I am now reporting max output at 30 secs post-activation, as I believe this is more representational to what manufacturers actually claim.

The main result of this change is that the Max output ANSI FL-1 measures will increase slightly on some lights in my tables, compared to older review (mainly those lights that are heavily-driven and not fully regulated/stabilized over the first few minutes of runtime). None of the other values are affected. To make this change easier to see, I am updating the color of my summary tables from light gray to light blue, effective March 2012. The light blue tables will all report Max output at the 30 secs mark (as explained in the table legends).

For more information about what the various terms in my tables mean, please see my ANSI/NEMA FL-1 page at : http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm

You can also find out more about how I estimate lumen output from my home-made setup on this thread here at CPF: How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens


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## dlmorgan999 (Mar 7, 2012)

Excellent and thorough review as always! I've had this light for about three weeks now and it's become one of my favorites. I agree with you that the anodizing is very nicely done and is indeed very similar in quality to Sunwayman. Keep up the great work on the reviews.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Mar 7, 2012)

i have serial number ending in 00071 and the labeling is spot-on level

also 4 others which are perfect ...yours musta been a fluke


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## dlmorgan999 (Mar 7, 2012)

I don't know where to find the serial number, but for the record, the label on mine is a bit crooked too.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 8, 2012)

dlmorgan999 said:


> Excellent and thorough review as always! I've had this light for about three weeks now and it's become one of my favorites. I agree with you that the anodizing is very nicely done and is indeed very similar in quality to Sunwayman. Keep up the great work on the reviews.


Thanks, it is an impressive looking light - very solid feel, and great anodizing.

Personally, I would like a memory mode and completely non-visible PWM, but this light does seem to suit its target "tactical" audience well as is.



127.0.0.1 said:


> i have serial number ending in 00071 and the labeling is spot-on level
> also 4 others which are perfect ...yours musta been a fluke





dlmorgan999 said:


> I don't know where to find the serial number, but for the record, the label on mine is a bit crooked too.


Glad to hear most are level, but I suspected mine wasn't the only one that was crooked. Just a costmetic issue, of course.

The serial number is right under the Klarus XT11 label (i.e. sample 820 in my case?). Previously, there were two seperate serial numbers on the XT10 - one at the base of the head, and a different one on the tailcap.


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## madecov (Mar 8, 2012)

Thank you for yet another very good review.

My XT-11 has straight engraving, The clip is not that great. I have had mine come off twice on the light.

I have been using mine as a back up duty light and been very pleased with the performance. Klarus comes very close to being *MY* perfect light.
If the clip was mounted with a retaining ring the light would be just about perfect for me.


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## Chicken Drumstick (Mar 9, 2012)

How exactly can something be supported but not recommended???  RCR's...

From a customer point of view, it either is or isn't! No inbetween and vagueness. If I buy the light and use RCR's in it and it breaks, does that mean warranty void??


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## 127.0.0.1 (Mar 9, 2012)

Chicken Drumstick said:


> How exactly can something be supported but not recommended???  RCR's...
> 
> From a customer point of view, it either is or isn't! No inbetween and vagueness. If I buy the light and use RCR's in it and it breaks, does that mean warranty void??



not recommended basically means: brighter, but lousy runtimes, which might disappoint

also maybe it means led life is reduced by an unquantifiable amount


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## Partizan302 (Mar 9, 2012)

A very interesting review. As things stand at this flashlight with side illumination compared to lumintop ed20?


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## selfbuilt (Mar 9, 2012)

Chicken Drumstick said:


> How exactly can something be supported but not recommended???  RCR's...


FYI, that line from the reported specs: "Battery: 2x CR123A / 1x 18650 / 2x 16340 (use of 16340 batteries is not recommended)" is taken directly from the back of the packaging.

It is a bit of a puzzler. I am not a lawyer, but I presume that means they have to warranty the light for damage that may occur from 2x16340 (i.e. RCR), as they explictly support it in the specs.

As pointed out above, the "recommendation" against using the cells is ambiguous, and could refer to anything (e.g., due to low runtime, excessive heat, etc.). As such, it seems to me that it cannot logically be used to nulify the explicit support stated for those cells. I have seen examples with other makers where only 1x18650 and 2xCR123A are explicitly supported, with or without a statement recommending against 2x16340/RCR. In those cases, you are clearly on your own if the light fails from non-supported batteries (although dealers/manufacturers can always waive their rights and provide service anyway). In this case, it seems to me you should be covered, as the "recommendation" is just that - a common-sense guideline about sticking with the most appropriate cells for the light.

That said, I personally don't recommend you run heavily-driven lights on Hi (i.e. >700 lumens on XM-L) on standard ICR 16340. You are pushing these cells to the limits of their rated discharge rates, which isn't good for the cells (especially a concern for old or poor quality cells). The risk to the flashlight is probably fairly minimal - it is more the cells that I would be worried about.

In any case, it is hard to know for sure what they meant exactly. If anyone is concerned about warranty support on the XT11 with 2xRCR, I suggest you confirm directly with Klarus or your dealer.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 9, 2012)

Partizan302 said:


> A very interesting review. As things stand at this flashlight with side illumination compared to lumintop ed20?


Sorry I missed this before.

I didn't include the Lumintop ED20 in the runtime traces because I was running out of colors. 

As you will see in my review of the ED20, output on all levels is actually very similar to the earlier Klarus XT10. The ED20 has an advantage in runtime, due to the excellent current-controlled circuit (more efficient than PWM). Beam spill is also a little wider on the ED20.


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## eh123456 (Mar 10, 2012)

As usual, a very nice review from selfbuilt :thumbsup:
I bought this light today, have played with it for only a few hours. The only thing I don't like is the removable grip ring which is cheap plastic and very loose on my sample.
I tried to use 2 X RCR, very bright indeed, but also get hot very quickly.
Overall, good quality at a reasonable price.


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## FlashLion (Mar 10, 2012)

Thank You for the objective review with pros and cons.Very useful review.With better clip and better grip ring this flashlight will be perfect.:thumbsup:


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## tobrien (Mar 11, 2012)

very nice again selfbuilt!

so does the lack of finger grooves (a la XT10) make any difference in how easy it is to hold or how good it feels in the hand?


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## selfbuilt (Mar 11, 2012)

tobrien said:


> so does the lack of finger grooves (a la XT10) make any difference in how easy it is to hold or how good it feels in the hand?


Nah. The finger wells were really more decoration on the XT10. It is only on the earlier ST/NT series where they were deep enough for a significant impact. No real difference between the XT10 and XT11 for grip.


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## tobrien (Mar 11, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Nah. The finger wells were really more decoration on the XT10. It is only on the earlier ST/NT series where they were deep enough for a significant impact. No real difference between the XT10 and XT11 for grip.


thanks, i'll pick up an XT11 asap


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## EricHalfabee (Mar 12, 2012)

Thanks again Selfbuilt, for "selling" me on another flashlight. Successfully (IMHO) navigated the flashlight jungle maze of possible products for this one courtesy of your review. It is a gift for a friend entering the LEO world, and looks like it should do the trick. High-mode first, no memory, handy Low-mode option for close-up stuff, good output... nice. I worry a teeny bit about the standby current for the Strobe switch, but mmmeh. I'm sure the draw is miniscule and hey - future batteries are his problem, I'm just supplying the gift and 2x123's to start! ha.

Thanks again!
-e


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## 127.0.0.1 (Mar 12, 2012)

EricHalfabee said:


> Thanks again Selfbuilt, for "selling" me on another flashlight. Successfully (IMHO) navigated the flashlight jungle maze of possible products for this one courtesy of your review. It is a gift for a friend entering the LEO world, and looks like it should do the trick. High-mode first, no memory, handy Low-mode option for close-up stuff, good output... nice. I worry a teeny bit about the standby current for the Strobe switch, but mmmeh. I'm sure the draw is miniscule and hey - future batteries are his problem, I'm just supplying the gift and 2x123's to start! ha.
> 
> Thanks again!
> -e



I only have one other suggestion as a giftlight. Give them 4 cr123's, that way when it dies, they are all set with no surprises.
and also give them a URL to a battery supplier and good cheap batts (titanium innovations, duracell 123 or duracell procell, eagtac...etc)
so they know that they can obtain cr123 and not get robbed (if they are not familiar with feeding cr123 to flashlights)


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## selfbuilt (Mar 12, 2012)

FYI, I just did a standby current measure, which is a bit tricky given the tailcap design. The most stable reading I obtained was ~1.4 uA on a fully charged 18650. Seeing as how that translates into a couple of centuries for most 18650 cells, I don't think we need to worry, lol. 

I didn't test other battery types, but I don't imagine it is very different. End result, your cells will be dead from old age long before the negligible standy current could drain them. :thumbsup:


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## DM51 (Mar 12, 2012)

We had a Back to the Future event today, and the ever-resourceful selfbuilt entered the wrong date on the flux capacitor in his DeLorean, taking him back to 2008, long before the Klarus XT11 was invented. 

Now I have to figure out how to delete that "2008" post without killing the thread (it's a grandfather-paradox type thing, lol).

Anyway, this (quote below) was supposed to be post #21: 



selfbuilt said:


> I just did a standby current measure, which is a bit tricky given the tailcap design. The most stable reading I obtained was ~1.4 uA on a fully charged 18650. Seeing as how that translates into a couple of centuries for most 18650 cells, I don't think we need to worry, lol.
> 
> I didn't test other battery types, but I don't imagine it is very different. End result, your cells will be dead from old age long before the negligible standy current could drain them. :thumbsup:


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## DM51 (Mar 12, 2012)

OK, post #1 is now as it should be. 

The "2008" post is here, for those who are interested in such things...


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## selfbuilt (Mar 12, 2012)

DM51 said:


> We had a Back to the Future event today, and the ever-resourceful selfbuilt entered the wrong date on the flux capacitor in his DeLorean, taking him back to 2008, long before the Klarus XT11 was invented.
> Now I have to figure out how to delete that "2008" post without killing the thread (it's a grandfather-paradox type thing, lol).


Thanks David. :bow:

I guess like a few others here today, I mis-timed the lightning strike. Those DeLoreans have sticky gas pedals, apparently. 

Glad to see everything is back where it belongs. I'll update any pointers I've made to this new thread. Thanks again!


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## 127.0.0.1 (Mar 13, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> FYI, I just did a standby current measure, which is a bit tricky given the tailcap design. The most stable reading I obtained was ~1.4 uA on a fully charged 18650. Seeing as how that translates into a couple of centuries for most 18650 cells, I don't think we need to worry, lol.
> 
> I didn't test other battery types, but I don't imagine it is very different. End result, your cells will be dead from old age long before the negligible standy current could drain them. :thumbsup:



thanks for this added test. My XT11 croaked on me (light got real dim real quick, moon-mode, and would not stay on)
and I was wondering if it was usage, standby, or what...looking back I have used those 2xcr123 about 1.5 hours on the XT11
and they wouldn't even power cottonpickers LED voltmeter to show how dead they might have been. glad to know 
standby won't eat cr123's


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## Chicken Drumstick (Mar 13, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> FYI, that line from the reported specs: "Battery: 2x CR123A / 1x 18650 / 2x 16340 (use of 16340 batteries is not recommended)" is taken directly from the back of the packaging.
> 
> It is a bit of a puzzler. I am not a lawyer, but I presume that means they have to warranty the light for damage that may occur from 2x16340 (i.e. RCR), as they explictly support it in the specs.
> 
> ...


Many thanks for the reply.

I'd just like to clarify, I wasn't trying to implicate you as stating RCR's where supported/not recommended. As I'd also seen the same on the Klarus website.

But I would say to someone new to premium flashlights and especially rechargeable Li-ion calls (of all types), then it makes it very confusing knowing what lights really do what and how. A shame manufacturers are not more consistent in their information and a shame they don't offer up some reasoning to some of these statements.


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## madecov (Mar 13, 2012)

last night I popped in a couple of AW 16340 cells. Light is bright  but gets hot fast. 
I only ran it a few minutes but it was pretty nice.


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## ledmitter (Mar 13, 2012)

madecov said:


> last night I popped in a couple of AW 16340 cells. Light is bright  but gets hot fast.
> I only ran it a few minutes but it was pretty nice.



Brighter that 2 RCR123's?

When you say hot, do you mean very uncomfortable at how many min?

I was researching 16340's and was wondering what the heck is the difference.


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## madecov (Mar 13, 2012)

I only ran the light for under two minutes. It warmed up a lot. I have not run it on primaries. I typically use 18650 cells.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 15, 2012)

Chicken Drumstick said:


> I'd just like to clarify, I wasn't trying to implicate you as stating RCR's where supported/not recommended. As I'd also seen the same on the Klarus website.


No worries, I didn't take it that way.  My comment clarifying the source was just to make it clear that was what is on the packaging, direct from Klarus (i.e., sometimes dealers have inaccurate information).



ledmitter said:


> Brighter that 2 RCR123's?
> ... I was researching 16340's and was wondering what the heck is the difference.


There isn't one: RCR = RCR123 = R123 = RCR123A = 16340. They are just different numbering systems for a specific size Li-ion (in this case, 16mm wide, 34mm long, and cylindrical shaped), meant to work in lights that take the standard CR123A primary cell.

What differentiates RCR cells is the kind of chemistry they use at their cathodes. Most cells are ICR or LiCoO2. These come in protected and unprotected forms. Also popular are IMR (or LiMn2O4), which can handle higher discharge rates (but don't come in protected forms). IFR (or LiFePO4) is also available, typically with lower nominal voltages. The gurus in the batteries subforum can help you out more on the specifics. :wave:


----------



## Jedgar (Mar 15, 2012)

Bought me and the wife each one. Our favorite lights They have been great on 18650s. 
Josh


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## Sigwag69 (Mar 21, 2012)

I am getting this light!! Thanks for pushing me over the top.


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## madecov (Mar 21, 2012)

Anyone interested in Higher quality holster for the XT-11, the 4Sevens maelstrom X5/7 holster is _almost_ a perfect fit.
The retention indents don't work but otherwise height wise it works.


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## C-channel (Apr 3, 2012)

Thanks for the nice review Selfbuilt. I've subscribed to your channel and re watch your videos many x. Will buy this light. I think I have too many Klarus...


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## tobrien (Apr 3, 2012)

yeah I've ordered the XT11 with a green filter from Going Gear thanks to everyone on CPF raving about this light! if anyone wants I'll post beamshots of the thing with the green filter in any possible battery config if there's any interest in it


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## GhostMeat (Apr 25, 2012)

In case anyone is interested, I'm, unfortunately, about to test out Klarus' warranty. My mode switch failed last night after only 2 weeks of ownership. The primary switch works just fine. The Mode switch will not go into strobe and will not cycle output levels when the Primary switch is activated. Doh!

We've probably all watched some of Marshall from Going Gear's videos about disassembling the tailcap. This type of problem above doesn't sound "user serviceable" right? It sounds like an electronics/circuit board problem if one button is working great, but the other is not...right? I'd be glad if I don't have to send this light in to someone and not see it for a month.

Anyway, I know that _I'm_ often interested in how companies handle _bad _news, so I thought I'd share. More updates as they are available!


gm.


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## GhostMeat (Apr 27, 2012)

Just a quick follow up here. My bottom line is that I'm actually sending the light in to GoingGear in Georgia. Since my light failed within the 30 day return period (actually the light is less than 2 weeks old), they'll fix it or replace it.

But one bit of good news is that I have been in touch with Klarus themselves. I asked, specifically, if they send the light all the way back to China -- which would be, of course, kind of ridiculous.  They did confirm that any warranty service during the 2 year warranty (sweet!) is actually performed in the Klarus USA Southern California HQ. Yep, domestic US of A. They were pretty helpful and responsive over email. Thumbs up.




GhostMeat said:


> In case anyone is interested, I'm, unfortunately, about to test out Klarus' warranty. My mode switch failed last night after only 2 weeks of ownership. The primary switch works just fine. The Mode switch will not go into strobe and will not cycle output levels when the Primary switch is activated. Doh!
> 
> We've probably all watched some of Marshall from Going Gear's videos about disassembling the tailcap. This type of problem above doesn't sound "user serviceable" right? It sounds like an electronics/circuit board problem if one button is working great, but the other is not...right? I'd be glad if I don't have to send this light in to someone and not see it for a month.
> 
> ...


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## aleve90 (Apr 27, 2012)

*Clip*

My primary concern with this light is the clip. Had the same feelings about other Klarus lights. I noticed one other person here stated their only complaint was the clip. Any other experiences and are there any alternative clips?


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## tobrien (Apr 27, 2012)

GhostMeat said:


> Just a quick follow up here. My bottom line is that I'm actually sending the light in to GoingGear in Georgia. Since my light failed within the 30 day return period (actually the light is less than 2 weeks old), they'll fix it or replace it.
> 
> But one bit of good news is that I have been in touch with Klarus themselves. I asked, specifically, if they send the light all the way back to China -- which would be, of course, kind of ridiculous.  They did confirm that any warranty service during the 2 year warranty (sweet!) is actually performed in the Klarus USA Southern California HQ. Yep, domestic US of A. They were pretty helpful and responsive over email. Thumbs up.


very nice man! sorry you've had trouble(s) with your XT11, my XT11 is the jam sauce.

i guess with klarus's arguably surging popularity, given the fact that no manufacturing process is perfect, there are gonna be some QC or defect issues, you know?

but yeah i am sorry to hear you had trouble initially, it's such an amazing light for me, and i hope you get to experience that, too


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## GhostMeat (Apr 29, 2012)

Oh, I assure you, I totally dig the light. It's awesome. I love the unique UI, battery flexibility, and overall build (with the exception of this speedbump). Other than that whole clip topic, yeah, I'm pretty stoked about it. 

Yeah, I'm not going to bash Klarus for a faulty light right out the gate. It's always a little frustrating to have to deal with Warranty issues, yes,but the true test of a company is not when things are going along just fine...it's when things go bad. Now if it fails a number of other times, that's a whole new topic. 

gm.



tobrien said:


> very nice man! sorry you've had trouble(s) with your XT11, my XT11 is the jam sauce.
> 
> i guess with klarus's arguably surging popularity, given the fact that no manufacturing process is perfect, there are gonna be some QC or defect issues, you know?
> 
> but yeah i am sorry to hear you had trouble initially, it's such an amazing light for me, and i hope you get to experience that, too


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## GhostMeat (May 2, 2012)

Man, I just can't win. I got my XT11 back from the retailer (who said they will be happy to handle warranty claims) and the Mode switch now works again, but it has another weird problem.

When I press the main tail switch something underneath hits the mode button, too. So if I press the main switch firmly, I sometimes "double-click" something under there and it immediately drops down into medium output. If you press the main tailswitch just the right way, you can actually cycle through all the brightness modes. Sounds convenient, but it kind of sucks. 

gm.





tobrien said:


> very nice man! sorry you've had trouble(s) with your XT11, my XT11 is the jam sauce.
> 
> i guess with klarus's arguably surging popularity, given the fact that no manufacturing process is perfect, there are gonna be some QC or defect issues, you know?
> 
> but yeah i am sorry to hear you had trouble initially, it's such an amazing light for me, and i hope you get to experience that, too


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## 127.0.0.1 (May 9, 2012)

open it up and investigate...the tail cap is designed for end user service

the mode button is a tiny microswitch and a ganked rubber boot can cause issues,
rip it open, carefully look for aluminum thread 'whiskers' and remove any you find,
and then carefully put it back together making sure the boot and assembly is lined up

make sure the small rubber boot contact, for the small switch, lines up with
the slot in the threads, you'll see the slot when you open it up

srsly...I have 5 of these puppies and they are all flawless



GhostMeat said:


> Man, I just can't win. I got my XT11 back from the retailer (who said they will be happy to handle warranty claims) and the Mode switch now works again, but it has another weird problem.
> 
> When I press the main tail switch something underneath hits the mode button, too. So if I press the main switch firmly, I sometimes "double-click" something under there and it immediately drops down into medium output. If you press the main tailswitch just the right way, you can actually cycle through all the brightness modes. Sounds convenient, but it kind of sucks.
> 
> gm.


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## GhostMeat (May 10, 2012)

Oh, I certainly did open it up after I got it back from the retailer. I did fiddle with it and got it to work a lot better than when I got it, but it wasn't 100%. I think what was happening was that the small strip of rubber that separates the mode button area from the main button tailswitch cavity was pushing sideways against the microswitch.

FYI, I ended up sending the light back to Klarus USA, in California. They've been pretty easy to work with so far. However, I should note that they actually called me and asked if I had disassembled the light. I gave them the rundown about how i had sent it into the retailer for repair and it came back a little south of awesome. I did not disassemble the tail cap before that though. He never said "disassembling the light voids the warranty" or anything, but it _sounded_ as if that was what he _was_ going to talk about. He did ask that I forward all the emails between me and the retailer pertaining to the repair. But in the end, I think he's repairing the light and restoring it (replacing the clip and the broken tactical grip ring).

I'm glad that all of yours are flawless. Every product has issues i guess, and that's OK. How the company handles problems that counts.


gm.






127.0.0.1 said:


> open it up and investigate...the tail cap is designed for end user service
> 
> the mode button is a tiny microswitch and a ganked rubber boot can cause issues,
> rip it open, carefully look for aluminum thread 'whiskers' and remove any you find,
> ...


----------



## madecov (May 11, 2012)

Considering the light comes with a spare rubber switch cover, opening up the tail switch should not void the warranty.


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (May 11, 2012)

madecov said:


> Considering the light comes with a spare rubber switch cover, opening up the tail switch should not void the warranty.



Klarus supplies a replacement rubber switch cover with every one, so there is no way warranty would be voided if you
unscrewed the tail...otherwise why in the heck does every light come with replacement rubber ?


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## HaileStorm (May 26, 2012)

Can anyone confirm if this light really goes up to 700 lumens with 2 cr123a's?

Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2


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## kj2 (May 27, 2012)

HaileStorm said:


> Can anyone confirm if this light really goes up to 700 lumens with 2 cr123a's?
> 
> Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2


Asked the same question to Going Gear. They say; 600 on 18650, 700 on CR123s, 750 on RCR123s.


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## HaileStorm (May 27, 2012)

kj2 said:


> Asked the same question to Going Gear. They say; 600 on 18650, 700 on CR123s, 750 on RCR123s.



Thanks for this! 

Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2


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## tfbit (Jun 10, 2012)

Received my XT11 in the mail yesterday and I would have to say your review and comments are spot on! One thing I have to say about the "whine" though is that even knowing about it, I totally forgot about it and never heard it until a few hours after getting it and I fired it up next to my ear.


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## selfbuilt (Jun 10, 2012)

tfbit said:


> Received my XT11 in the mail yesterday and I would have to say your review and comments are spot on! One thing I have to say about the "whine" though is that even knowing about it, I totally forgot about it and never heard it until a few hours after getting it and I fired it up next to my ear.


That's the way it should be  - inductor whine shouldn't be noticeable or distracting at typical distances. If it is, then they haven't done a very good job of dampening it (or selecting the most appropriate coils in the first place). A lot of lights will have some slight buzz when held to the ear, that's normal. You can get away from this completely, it should just be managed by the maker so as not to be a significant issue.

Incidentally, I discuss the principle of inductor hum/whine in primer #4 of my video flashlight overview primers:

Oh, and :welcome:


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## tfbit (Jun 11, 2012)

I have a question about either the Klarus XT11 or battery protection... I don't know which. Does this light normally start flashing when the battery/batteries start getting low? I ask because I first was playing with an Orbtronic 18650 and after 2+ hours of runtime on high, the light started flashing on and off for a little while till it turned off. Next I was trying out 2x AW ICR123s and after about 30 minutes of runtime the Klarus just shut off with no flashing. Was the flashing or shut off caused by the light or the battery protection?

BTW, the XT11 gets amazingly warm (at least to me) running on high with the AW ICR123s and I probably won't be doing that a lot.


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## selfbuilt (Jun 12, 2012)

tfbit said:


> I have a question about either the Klarus XT11 or battery protection... I don't know which. Does this light normally start flashing when the battery/batteries start getting low? I ask because I first was playing with an Orbtronic 18650 and after 2+ hours of runtime on high, the light started flashing on and off for a little while till it turned off. Next I was trying out 2x AW ICR123s and after about 30 minutes of runtime the Klarus just shut off with no flashing. Was the flashing or shut off caused by the light or the battery protection?


The flashing is caused by a low-voltage warning feature of the circuit. I observed it on both 1x 3.7V 18650 Li-ion) and 2x 3V CR123A. However, like you, on 2x RCR Li-ion the light shut-off without warning. This is not uncommon on multi-power lights. The circuit flashes when a specific target low voltage is reached. In the case of 2x RCR, the built-in cell protection circuits get tripped before that overall voltage is reached, hence no advance warning.

And I agree - 2xRCR on Max gets quite hot on sustained run, so this is not recommended.

Oh, and :welcome:


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## TEEJ (Jun 12, 2012)

HaileStorm said:


> Can anyone confirm if this light really goes up to 700 lumens with 2 cr123a's?
> 
> Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2



At Photon Fest 18, TurboBB measured the XT11 with 2 RCR's at 850 OTF lumens. With 2 RCRs, it really screams photons, very very noticeable difference.


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## selfbuilt (Jun 12, 2012)

Or one could look at the data in the actual review thread where the question has been posted ... 







As always, the point is none of us have consistent access to a proper NIST-calibrated integrating sphere. Everyone's lumen estimates are just that - estimates. I'm reasonably confident in the <800 lumen estimates in my reviews, based on the calibration correction I've done to those who had accessed to proper integrating spheres. 

But whatever the true value happens to be, it is significantly more than on 1x18650. That is the ultimate take-home message for the KT11. :wave:


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## HaileStorm (Jun 13, 2012)

TEEJ said:


> At Photon Fest 18, TurboBB measured the XT11 with 2 RCR's at 850 OTF lumens. With 2 RCRs, it really screams photons, very very noticeable difference.



Thanks! Still yet to find aw rcr's. Definitely worth a try if it's at 850lm otf!  

Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2


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## ledmitter_nli (Jun 13, 2012)

TEEJ said:


> At Photon Fest 18, TurboBB measured the XT11 with 2 RCR's at 850 OTF lumens. With 2 RCRs, it really screams photons, very very noticeable difference.



Was that measured with his PVC pipe lumens measuring contraption?

Any idea on battery brand?


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## ledmitter_nli (Jun 13, 2012)

tfbit said:


> I have a question about either the Klarus XT11 or battery protection... I don't know which. Does this light normally start flashing when the battery/batteries start getting low? I ask because I first was playing with an Orbtronic 18650 and after 2+ hours of runtime on high, the light started flashing on and off for a little while till it turned off. Next I was trying out 2x AW ICR123s and after about 30 minutes of runtime the Klarus just shut off with no flashing. Was the flashing or shut off caused by the light or the battery protection?
> 
> BTW, the XT11 gets amazingly warm (at least to me) running on high with the AW ICR123s and I probably won't be doing that a lot.



Same with mine using those same RCR123 AW's. Shuts off after battery depletion around 24 min. Did a run time test and used a cooling fan 

You sure you got 30 min? 6 min more is actually a lot.


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## selfbuilt (Jun 13, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> [my reported ANSI FL-1 lumen estimate for 2xRCR on the XT11 is 750]
> As always, the point is none of us have consistent access to a proper NIST-calibrated integrating sphere. Everyone's lumen estimates are just that - estimates. I'm reasonably confident in the <800 lumen estimates in my reviews, based on the calibration correction I've done to those who had accessed to proper integrating spheres.
> But whatever the true value happens to be, it is significantly more than on 1x18650. That is the ultimate take-home message for the KT11. :wave:





HaileStorm said:


> Thanks! Still yet to find aw rcr's. Definitely worth a try if it's at 850lm otf!


:sigh:


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## tfbit (Jun 13, 2012)

Just duplicated my simple runtime test. I'm not a Flashlight Scientist though and I did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express so I can't tell you voltage this or lumen that. It's just what happened.

Klarus XT11
2x AW ICR 123 750mAh batteries purchased from eBay
XTAR WP2 charger

Charged batteries and let them trickle for 5-10 minutes, installed them, and turned on the light.

10:15:00 Turned on light
10:17:50 Light stepped down
10:44:57 Light shut off

Edit: Did another battery dump this afternoon, this time on Medium, and had a runtime of 80 minutes before shutoff.



ledmitter_nli said:


> Same with mine using those same RCR123 AW's. Shuts off after battery depletion around 24 min. Did a run time test and used a cooling fan
> 
> You sure you got 30 min? 6 min more is actually a lot.


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## ledmitter_nli (Jun 13, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> :sigh:



Could be a bit more than 750 with a hot charge and immediate measure. Your ANSI test is 30 seconds after turning the light on. Surely that's enough time for the battery to draw down and the light to measure 750 lumens.

Selfbuilt could you confirm if this is the case if you still have the 11 available?


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## selfbuilt (Jun 13, 2012)

ledmitter_nli said:


> Could be a bit more than 750 with a hot charge and immediate measure. Your ANSI test is 30 seconds after turning the light on. Surely that's enough time for the battery to draw down and the light to measure 750 lumens.


All true. I use AW protected RCR hot off my Pila charger. My Pila doesn't use a trickle charge, and typically goes green at around 4.20V for a fresh cells, and between 4.17V-4.19V for cells with a reasonable number of cycles on them. But my lumen estimate at activation is about 20 lumens higher than at 30 secs, so say 770 in this case.

But again, my point is simply the accuracy of those lumens measures on any given lightbox/tube is always going to be suspect. Those searching for an (arbitrary) specific "true" value are not being realistic.


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## ledmitter_nli (Jun 13, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> All true. I use AW protected RCR hot off my Pila charger. My Pila doesn't use a trickle charge, and typically goes green at around 4.20V for a fresh cells, and between 4.17V-4.19V for cells with a reasonable number of cycles on them. But my lumen estimate at activation is about 20 lumens higher than at 30 secs, so say 770 in this case.
> 
> But again, my point is simply the accuracy of those lumens measures on any given lightbox/tube is always going to be suspect. Those searching for an (arbitrary) specific "true" value are not being realistic.



Agreed. Thank you for your reviews. I really hope you get to keep all those lights you are given
to review (you probably do)

Wonder if you'll get a free SureFire Lawman to review


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## ledmitter_nli (Jun 14, 2012)

tfbit said:


> Just duplicated my simple runtime test. I'm not a Flashlight Scientist though and I did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express so I can't tell you voltage this or lumen that. It's just what happened.
> 
> Klarus XT11
> 2x AW ICR 123 750mAh batteries purchased from eBay
> ...



Did you notice any flickering with that medium power test? Say 10 minutes in.


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## tfbit (Jun 17, 2012)

Just dumped the 123s again on medium. Got the same runtime and comparing the light from the start of the run to the middle I don't think I really saw much difference.



ledmitter_nli said:


> Did you notice any flickering with that medium power test? Say 10 minutes in.


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## Chevy-SS (Jun 18, 2012)

First - thanks to 'selfbuilt' for terrific review.

Quick question on the strobe switch: is it a momentary-capable forward clicky?

thanks


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## selfbuilt (Jun 18, 2012)

Chevy-SS said:


> First - thanks to 'selfbuilt' for terrific review.
> Quick question on the strobe switch: is it a momentary-capable forward clicky?


Well, it is programmed to act as momentary (i.e., you can do brief flashes of strobe). But it is not an actual clicky, AFAIK - it's an electronic switch.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Jun 18, 2012)

Chevy-SS said:


> First - thanks to 'selfbuilt' for terrific review.
> 
> Quick question on the strobe switch: is it a momentary-capable forward clicky?
> 
> thanks




*oval switch (strobe and mode)* is pure momentary, however when held down long enough (few seconds)
the program takes over and maintains strobe even if you let go of it
*
round switch (on/off)* is forward clicky with momentary


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## Chevy-SS (Jun 19, 2012)

Very informative answers. Thanks very much to both of you! 

-

_EDIT - ordered XT11 from eBay, with two 18650 batteries and a charger, for $90 total. Looking forward to trying it out._


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## tmt (Jun 20, 2012)

The grip ring on my xt11 is very loose. Is this the norm on every xt11? What about flashlights from other brands that have grip rings?


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## selfbuilt (Jun 20, 2012)

tmt said:


> The grip ring on my xt11 is very loose. Is this the norm on every xt11? What about flashlights from other brands that have grip rings?


The grip ring is loose on my XT11 (compared to other models that have them). But with the tailcap fully tightened, it isn't an issue (i.e., it holds it firmly, at least on my sample).


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## madecov (Jun 20, 2012)

Both my XT-10 & XT-11 grip rings turn fairly freely. Lights that use a hard rubber material for the ring will have more adhesion and less chance of spinning


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## tmt (Jun 20, 2012)

Thanks for the replies. The grip ring on my xt11 is still loose even with the tailcap fully tightened. I would love for it to remain firmly to the body.


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## tobrien (Jun 20, 2012)

i still think the Armytek Predator (2012/latest rev model) is the best grip ring. it's rubber and doesn't spin at all but the rubber means it'll more or less conform to your hand and not jab into it, you know?

edit: my xt11 is in competition with my predator for my favorite, most used light


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## tmt (Jun 21, 2012)

I decided to take the grip ring off because it really bothered me.


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## HaileStorm (Jun 30, 2012)

Turns our BRNO's BaLens white balance lens caps are actually quite useful . Fits perfectly as a diffuser on my xt11 















Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2


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## madecov (Jun 30, 2012)

What mm size is it ?


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## HaileStorm (Jun 30, 2012)

madecov said:


> What mm size is it ?



The size of my lens cap is 72mm but the actual size of the diffuser is 26mm which fits perfectly under the strike bezel 

Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2


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## tobrien (Jul 1, 2012)

HaileStorm said:


> The size of my lens cap is 72mm but the actual size of the diffuser is 26mm which fits perfectly under the strike bezel
> 
> Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2



that's an awesome find, bud, good job! how's the beam or lack of? have you compared it to the Klarus screw-on diffuser by chance? that's awesome!


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## HaileStorm (Jul 2, 2012)

tobrien said:


> that's an awesome find, bud, good job! how's the beam or lack of? have you compared it to the Klarus screw-on diffuser by chance? that's awesome!



Tobrien, 

Thanks, bud! I was totally surprised, it was pretty accidental as to how it crossed my mind, my kid was throwing around my lens cap and the diffuser came right off  

Haven't had the chance to try out klarus' diffusers yet but this one lights up a room quite evenly on high, adequately on mid and acts like a night light on low  

Really happy with the job it does. It didn't cost me anything so that in itself satisfies me enough, hehe! . I'm sure though that klarus' diffuser will do a better job 

Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2


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## lumen aeternum (Sep 29, 2012)

I've not yet memorized whether "orange peel reflector" means throw or flood ?

Does this light have an even "flood" that stays bright out to the edges? How wide is the beam? 

Where can I read more about "BRNO's BaLens white balance lens caps?"


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## Bwolcott (Sep 29, 2012)

lumen aeternum said:


> I've not yet memorized whether "orange peel reflector" means throw or flood ?
> 
> Does this light have an even "flood" that stays bright out to the edges? How wide is the beam?
> 
> Where can I read more about "BRNO's BaLens white balance lens caps?"




orange peel smoths out the beam, but it does cause some loss id throw


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## HaileStorm (Sep 29, 2012)

lumen aeternum said:


> I've not yet memorized whether "orange peel reflector" means throw or flood ?
> 
> Does this light have an even "flood" that stays bright out to the edges? How wide is the beam?
> 
> Where can I read more about "BRNO's BaLens white balance lens caps?"



You could check it out here: http://www.balens.ca/ but it might be cheaper to just purchase the diffuser from klarus. It just happened that I had the lens cap and don't use it anymore. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## theoldbill (Oct 1, 2012)

Hello everyone,

I bought my xt11 on the basis of this review. 

Can anyone help me regarding batteries though?

I bought a charger along with 1 x 18650 and 2 x AW ICR 123. 

The 18650 is a nice snug fit but the ICR123s aren't as wide as the battery tube. 

When the tailcap is screwed on they don't rattle or anything but I just wondered if anyone more knowledgeable than me could put my mind At rest that this isnt an issue?


----------



## FlashLion (Oct 1, 2012)

theoldbill said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> I bought my xt11 on the basis of this review.
> 
> ...


Hello
I don't think it's an issue.If the batteries make good contact and there's no flickering,no problem.


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## selfbuilt (Oct 2, 2012)

theoldbill said:


> I bought a charger along with 1 x 18650 and 2 x AW ICR 123.
> 
> The 18650 is a nice snug fit but the ICR123s aren't as wide as the battery tube.


This is quite normal. As 18650 is wider than 16340 (RCR), there will always be more space available on RCR in lights that accept both. 

It is not a problem, outside of potential rattle issues. A number of makers have developed plastic sleeves for RCR/CR123A (Olight and Eagletac come to mind), but they aren't required. If worried, a little electrical tape wrapped around the outside of the battery bodies could be used as a low-tech solution for rattle. But as long as the overall tension on the cells is good, there should be no performance issues.


----------



## theoldbill (Oct 2, 2012)

flashlion said:


> Hello
> I don't think it's an issue.If the batteries make good contact and there's no flickering,no problem.



Cool, thanks for that.

I've been using it over the weekend and it seems to be fine, it just didn't seem right that the batteries didn't fit snugly (is that a word?). 

It might be the placebo effect but it does seem brighter on two RCR123s rather than one 18650. 

I'm still getting to grips with the new led torch tech but it really has made my job easier. Light = more safety.


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## Dubois (Oct 3, 2012)

theoldbill said:


> It might be the placebo effect but it does seem brighter on two RCR123s rather than one 18650.



It's not a placebo effect - the light will be brighter with the higher voltage of 2xRCR123 cells. Have a look at Selfbuilt's output tables and charts in the main review.

I have one of these lights on order, and will be interested how it compares with the Niwalker NWK550N3.


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## selfbuilt (Oct 3, 2012)

Dubois said:


> It's not a placebo effect - the light will be brighter with the higher voltage of 2xRCR123 cells. Have a look at Selfbuilt's output tables and charts in the main review.


That's right. And note the manufacturer does not recommend use of 2xRCR on max (likely due to the higher drive level). Personally, I prefer to keep the light on 1x18650 for a better balance of output levels/runtime.


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## Joe Talmadge (Oct 3, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> That's right. And note the manufacturer does not recommend use of 2xRCR on max (likely due to the higher drive level). Personally, I prefer to keep the light on 1x18650 for a better balance of output levels/runtime.



Moreover, if you are a newbie to Li Ion rechargeables (apologies if you are not, just guessing), you have to deal with the trickier care and handling of two 16340s in series, even protected I rigorously make sure they're balanced and mind my Ps and Qs. When I teach friends about Li Ion batteries, I don't let them run multiples in series for a while (though I may be more cautious than most)


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## TEEJ (Oct 14, 2012)

theoldbill said:


> Cool, thanks for that.
> 
> I've been using it over the weekend and it seems to be fine, it just didn't seem right that the batteries didn't fit snugly (is that a word?).
> 
> ...




When TurboBB and I measured the lumens on the XT11 last Summer, we got 600 lumens from the 18650 and 850 lumens from the two RCR123's...so the 123's are definitely brighter. 

I can also see the difference in the field. The 750 mAh of the 123's gives a lot shorter run time than the 3100 mAh of the single 18650 though, so, I use it with the 18650 most of the time. The long run time with the 18650 is very very useful....many hours.


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## kj2 (Oct 21, 2012)

TEEJ said:


> When TurboBB and I measured the lumens on the XT11 last Summer, we got 600 lumens from the 18650 and 850 lumens from the two RCR123's...so the 123's are definitely brighter.
> 
> I can also see the difference in the field. The 750 mAh of the 123's gives a lot shorter run time than the 3100 mAh of the single 18650 though, so, I use it with the 18650 most of the time. The long run time with the 18650 is very very useful....many hours.



I really hate that, when using 123's you get more lumens but less runtime. I like all the lumens I can get but want the most of runtime the light can give me.


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## kj2 (Oct 21, 2012)

According the review, only 7500 lux (cd) on 1* 18650- that's a bit low IMO. Is the XT11 intenser in the hot-spot than the Fenix TK21?


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## selfbuilt (Oct 23, 2012)

kj2 said:


> According the review, only 7500 lux (cd) on 1* 18650- that's a bit low IMO. Is the XT11 intenser in the hot-spot than the Fenix TK21?


This review was completed with my old lightmeter. All my newer reviews show results with a NIST-certified lux meter, taken at a full 10m distance. Here is how recent 1x18650 lights compare, including the XT11:







I don't have the Fenix TK21 to compare.


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## kj2 (Oct 23, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> This review was completed with my old lightmeter. All my newer reviews show results with a NIST-certified lux meter, taken at a full 10m distance. Here is how recent 1x18650 lights compare, including the XT11:
> 
> 
> I don't have the Fenix TK21 to compare.


Thanks  XT11 looks much better with those new numbers.
Is the XT11 much brighter than the XT2C, that you know?


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## selfbuilt (Oct 23, 2012)

kj2 said:


> Thanks  XT11 looks much better with those new numbers.
> Is the XT11 much brighter than the XT2C, that you know?


No idea, I haven't tested a XT2C. And note that the XT11 is much brighter on 2xRCR, so throw would go up there. As always, it comes down to relative drive levels and relfector geometry.


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## HaileStorm (Oct 23, 2012)

kj2 said:


> Thanks  XT11 looks much better with those new numbers.
> Is the XT11 much brighter than the XT2C, that you know?



On a white wall, yes the difference is noticeable. But it's not a big jump from the xt2c. On two rcr's though, it might be a completely different story. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## theoldbill (Oct 23, 2012)

I've been off the board for a while but just caught up on this thread. 

Just wanted to say thanks for the advice and reassurance re the cr123s.

My xt11 is still doing a great job and I'm sure it gets brighter every time I use it!


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## sog_sniper (Oct 27, 2012)

Very good review....

Just received my XT11 and XT1C.... very happy with them so far... The XT11 is very bright and the UI is very nice as well...


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## bossie (Oct 27, 2012)

So im new to not only the flashlight but the batteries as well...im getting a Klarus xt11 mainly to your review thanks by the way for awesome review...more than anougth info to convince me lol...my question is more battery related. Im buying the torch at shop but they have some bad batteries. Im ordering some Xtar 3100mAh batteries and the Xtar WP2II charger...I know these are good cause I've red it..somewhere...get lost with all these threads.

How long do these batteries last...im not talking about the cycles and when flashlight is turned on...they say its about 500 charges...im talking about if Ive charged them and put one in torch and other one for backup how long will they keep there power without any use. I mean if i dont use the flashlight for a whole year what will be the condition of the one in flashlight (not used) and the spare also not used.






This is prob a stupid question but we usually don't have these batteries in South Africa and this is first time Ive actualy seen them.


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## sog_sniper (Oct 27, 2012)

Hello Selfbuilt,

Not sure if you have a post regarding "measuring output power (lumens)" somewhere. Is it possible for you to post pictures of your test rig and explain how it works... Your reviews are really comprehensive and I learn so much from these threads, thank you for sharing all these information.


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## selfbuilt (Oct 27, 2012)

bossie said:


> How long do these batteries last...im not talking about the cycles and when flashlight is turned on...they say its about 500 charges...im talking about if Ive charged them and put one in torch and other one for backup how long will they keep there power without any use. I mean if i dont use the flashlight for a whole year what will be the condition of the one in flashlight (not used) and the spare also not used.


Basically, the capacity will be pretty close to how you left it a year ago. Li-ions (in good condition) have remarkably low self-discharge rates. That said, it is best to store them in a partially discharged state for long-term stability. The experts in the batteries subforum here can fill in you in further.



sog_sniper said:


> Not sure if you have a post regarding "measuring output power (lumens)" somewhere. Is it possible for you to post pictures of your test rig and explain how it works... Your reviews are really comprehensive and I learn so much from these threads, thank you for sharing all these information.


I have an overview of my testing methodology here: http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/method.htm

Sorry, no posts of the rig, but there are links to additional background pages on my site - and others - that go into more detail.

:welcome: gents.


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## sog_sniper (Oct 28, 2012)

Thank you very much Selfbuilt for the prompt response...Another query from a newbie, what is the purpose of using PWM???


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## selfbuilt (Oct 28, 2012)

sog_sniper said:


> Thank you very much Selfbuilt for the prompt response...Another query from a newbie, what is the purpose of using PWM???


Short-version, it is a simple way to reduce the output of a light, by reducing the amount of time the light is on (i.e., variable amount of time full-power "on", in pulses of a fixed frequency - thus, pulse-width modulated). Due to the phenomenon of persistence of vision, this will be perceived as dimmer light (assuming the frequency is high enough). 

The competing method known "current-control" actually involves driving the emitter at lower levels (which is more efficient, as the emitter is more efficient at lower currents). But current-control is difficult to do stably at lower outputs, and will generally result in some tint-shifting of the LED (due to the varying drive levels). Continuously-variable lights are almost always PWM-controlled, and some defined-level levels use PWM as well (especially for low output levels). See the electronics subforum for a greater discussion.


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## HaileStorm (Oct 28, 2012)

This looks handsome, indeed...






Image taken from Klarus' website.


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## FlashLion (Oct 28, 2012)

HaileStorm said:


> This looks handsome, indeed...


looks scary


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## sog_sniper (Oct 28, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Short-version, it is a simple way to reduce the output of a light, by reducing the amount of time the light is on (i.e., variable amount of time full-power "on", in pulses of a fixed frequency - thus, pulse-width modulated). Due to the phenomenon of persistence of vision, this will be perceived as dimmer light (assuming the frequency is high enough).
> 
> The competing method known "current-control" actually involves driving the emitter at lower levels (which is more efficient, as the emitter is more efficient at lower currents). But current-control is difficult to do stably at lower outputs, and will generally result in some tint-shifting of the LED (due to the varying drive levels). Continuously-variable lights are almost always PWM-controlled, and some defined-level levels use PWM as well (especially for low output levels). See the electronics subforum for a greater discussion.



Well said Selfbuilt, thank you very much for the explanation... Two thumbs up for you and please continue sharing your comprehensive flashlight reviews..... More power


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## mtdewmike (Nov 7, 2012)

HaileStorm said:


> This looks handsome, indeed...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm waiting for a price on one of these bad boys!!


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## silverspurr (Dec 2, 2012)

[SIZE=+1]I recently purchased/received the Klarus XT11.
I have owned the XT10 for over a year and decided to upgrade to the XT11.
While the color and brightness [SIZE=+1]are[/SIZE] very nice, there are two flaws this light has that for me make it uncomfortable and unpredictable when having to use the light.
#1. as I'm sure you have heard from others, the anti-roll plastic ring not only is not a tight fit (the XT10 is a perfect tight fit), it spins freely in a circle AND up and down AND if you put your index finger on one side and your thumb on the other side of it, it wobbles side to side which for me is terrible especially at $71.00 - $89.00.
However the wost design flaw is the fact that the strobe is set off too easily when I don't want it to go off.... simply by using the larger button/switch.... if my thumb even slightly touches the smaller mode button/switch.... the strobe goes off! Terrible.
This is absolutely not an issue with my XT10.
I don't want to (should not have to) have to consciously face the smaller mode button/switch outward each and every time I want to/need to use momentary on... without having the strobe fire off!
[SIZE=+1]The Klarus XT11 w[/SIZE]ould be a superb light (as is the XT10) if not for these two (2) design flaws.

The problem with the newer XT11's _strobe/mode_ button is it's extremely "hair-trigger"[SIZE=+1] which[SIZE=+1] is why [SIZE=+1]the strobe fires when I don't want it to, simply when I press the main (round) button.. but if the slightes[SIZE=+1]t pressure/touch of my thumb makes even the [SIZE=+1]slightest[/SIZE] contact with the smaller (half moon) button, the strobe fires.
By comparing both the XT10 [SIZE=+1]and XT11 one in my left hand the other in my right hand, [SIZE=+1]there is a clearly audible and tactile sound/feel when the XT[SIZE=+1]10's strobe button is depressed with my thumb, and on the [SIZE=+1]XT11.... [SIZE=+1]I barely hear or feel any click[SIZE=+1], it just fires[SIZE=+1].[/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE]


[/SIZE]


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## selfbuilt (Dec 3, 2012)

silverspurr said:


> However the wost design flaw is the fact that the strobe is set off too easily when I don't want it to go off.... simply by using the larger button/switch.... if my thumb even slightly touches the smaller mode button/switch.... the strobe goes off! Terrible.
> This is absolutely not an issue with my XT10.


The XT10 and XT11 actually use the same tailcap and switch. It sounds like your XT11 sample is a lot more sensitive than your earlier XT10. I don't know if this a general change over time, or simply natural variation in sensitivity levels among all the switches. But it means that you would swap the tailcap from your XT10 on to your XT11, to keep the sensitivity you are used to.


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## TEEJ (Dec 3, 2012)

HaileStorm said:


> This looks handsome, indeed...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



OW!

I think that version would not be good to keep in my front pocket...I think it would put a hole in my pocket, and some stuff very near to that pocket...like ME.

:eeksign::eeksign::eeksign:


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## silverspurr (Dec 4, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> The XT10 and XT11 actually use the same tailcap and switch. It sounds like your XT11 sample is a lot more sensitive than your earlier XT10. I don't know if this a general change over time, or simply natural variation in sensitivity levels among all the switches. But it means that you would swap the tailcap from your XT10 on to your XT11, to keep the sensitivity you are used to.



Great suggestion, thank you very much.
Unfortunately I just tried as you suggested removing the tailcap and switch from the XT10.... I was able to remove the initial aluminum threaded ring... however once I got down to the switch, I have no idea how I can/how to remove it as there are not two 'notches' to put a tool into it and un-screw it as is on the first aluminum ring.
I can't take a chance and force anything as someone wants to buy XT10 from me and I don't want to break anything by accident.
I wish I could change them as you suggested, that would probably solve the issue... I'm just not very tech/mechanical savvy when it comes to taking these apart.


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## TEEJ (Dec 4, 2012)

silverspurr said:


> Great suggestion, thank you very much.
> Unfortunately I just tried as you suggested removing the tailcap and switch from the XT10.... I was able to remove the initial aluminum threaded ring... however once I got down to the switch, I have no idea how I can/how to remove it as there are not two 'notches' to put a tool into it and un-screw it as is on the first aluminum ring.
> I can't take a chance and force anything as someone wants to buy XT10 from me and I don't want to break anything by accident.
> I wish I could change them as you suggested, that would probably solve the issue... I'm just not very tech/mechanical savvy when it comes to taking these apart.




LOL - you don't have to take it apart...I think you just swap them.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 4, 2012)

TEEJ said:


> LOL - you don't have to take it apart...I think you just swap them.


Yes, that's what I meant - you just exchange the whole tailcap between the two lights. The only potential issue is that you might have a slight mismatch in the anodizing colours.

I wouldn't recommend disassembling the XT10/11 switch itself, as it is a little more complicated than most (due to the dual switch design).


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## silverspurr (Dec 5, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, that's what I meant - you just exchange the whole tailcap between the two lights. The only potential issue is that you might have a slight mismatch in the anodizing colours.
> 
> I wouldn't recommend disassembling the XT10/11 switch itself, as it is a little more complicated than most (due to the dual switch design).



As you suggested, I just now simply exchanged the tail caps (XT10 to the XT11) .... PERFECT!! Problem solved!!
*'TEEJ'*.... boy do I feel like a dope, trying to exchange the actual 'switches' LoL!!
Lucky that the two are the exact same anodized color!
There was a # (X05542) printed on the XT10 cap while no # on the XT11 cap, but absolutely no big deal.
*'selfbuilt*', thanks a million for your help, very much appreciated.
Works perfectly now... no strobe firing off accidentally due to the highly sensitive smaller mode button/switch which came on the XT11.
Great light, nice white LED light color.
I purchased the optional more 'aggressive' strike bezel which is kind of fun.. LoL.
Now if only they would design the XT11 so the plastic anti-roll ring wouldn't be oddly "very loose" and spin around like a pin wheel.
But at least the other issue is now gone/fixed!

Thanks again!


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## selfbuilt (Dec 5, 2012)

silverspurr said:


> Works perfectly now... no strobe firing off accidentally due to the highly sensitive smaller mode button/switch which came on the XT11.


Good, glad it worked out for you. 

I've just gone back and handled my XT10, XT11 and XT30 (all use the same inter-changeable tailcap). While none of mine are as sensistive as you describe, the older XT10 does seem to require the firmest push to activate strobe (with the newest XT30 being the most sensitive). Could be a gradual change in sensitivity over time, but might also be completely random - don't have enough samples to say.

Cheers!


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## TEEJ (Dec 5, 2012)

silverspurr said:


> As you suggested, I just now simply exchanged the tail caps (XT10 to the XT11) .... PERFECT!! Problem solved!!
> *'TEEJ'*.... boy do I feel like a dope, trying to exchange the actual 'switches' LoL!!
> Lucky that the two are the exact same anodized color!
> There was a # (X05542) printed on the XT10 cap while no # on the XT11 cap, but absolutely no big deal.
> ...



LOL

Glad it worked out.

I tend to install GITD O-rings on my lights to make them easier to find in the dark/if dropped, etc...Not replacing the lights OEM functional O-rings....just adding more around the head and bodies, etc.

I found that if I installed a ring where the ring was, it kept it from spinning too, doing double duty.


BTW - the tail cap and ring for the XT20 are a direct swap as well. I can even use the tail cap from a ZL SC600 on the back of the XT11, its a perfect match (Turns it into a twisty UI though, as the SC600 has no switch in the cap...)


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## tadbik (Jan 28, 2013)

It's interesting to read about the problems with the removable grip ring. My XT11 came today and it has a metal ring.


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## Putty (Jan 28, 2013)

I just ordered one of these off of Amazon today. I plan to attach to my shotgun. Seems like a very bight light.

Thanks for the review.


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## silverspurr (Jan 29, 2013)

tadbik said:


> It's interesting to read about the problems with the removable grip ring. My XT11 came today and it has a metal ring.



Mine is _plastic_.... and I got it last month from Going Gear.


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## ledmitter_nli (Feb 2, 2013)

Klarus XT11 run time test using 2X Efest 700mAh IMRs vs 2X AW RCR 750mAh here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...w-many-years&p=4130047&viewfull=1#post4130047


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## eh123456 (Feb 2, 2013)

Send Klarus an email, they will send you a metal one (via your retailer).
I did and they told me to go back to my retailer to collect a metal one, very good after sales service 




silverspurr said:


> Mine is _plastic_.... and I got it last month from Going Gear.


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## dj:litestick (Feb 3, 2013)

silverspurr said:


> Mine is _plastic_.... and I got it last month from Going Gear.



That's odd. GG had been out of XT11's a few months back and then restocked with all metal grip rings. I just picked up another XT11 from them about 2 months ago and all their stock was metal rings.


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## TEEJ (Feb 3, 2013)

I have one plastic ring that's never been an issue, and all the rest were metal. Its probably a supply issue where the plastics get swapped in if they are low on the metal ones lately?

The early ones were ALL plastic, all the time. They started using metal later on. I found the metal ones from the XT20 for example interchangeable too, etc.


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## Labrador72 (Feb 27, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Good, glad it worked out for you.
> 
> I've just gone back and handled my XT10, XT11 and XT30 (all use the same inter-changeable tailcap). While none of mine are as sensistive as you describe, the older XT10 does seem to require the firmest push to activate strobe (with the newest XT30 being the most sensitive). Could be a gradual change in sensitivity over time, but might also be completely random - don't have enough samples to say.
> 
> Cheers!



I remembered I had read somewhere that the XT10 switch required a firmer push than other XT lights so I looked for this post. My XT10 requires a much firmer push the XT1A, XT2A, XT2C. Even holding the momentary on for some time leads to a slight discomfort in the thumb. My sample could possibly require a firmer push than others. Now, including the message below, it makes three people confirming the XT10 is the XT light with the harder switch and considering the XT11 tailcap is identical I suspect Klarus may have changed the spring or some other switch component for the XT11 and the other XT lights.



creedelight said:


> As for the switches, the buttons on the XT2C protrudes a little more than the XT10, about 1 millimetre more on both the round and crescent button, hence easier to press. The spring assembly button on my XT2C are also softer to press (feels just right), my XT10 needs a little more effort to activate (Double/ triple the effort), both buttons have a louder audible click then I would like, but not a big a deal for me. At this early point I prefer the XT2C over the XT10 due to its smaller size and button accessibility (better for high stress situation).


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## silverspurr (Feb 28, 2013)

eh123456 said:


> Send Klarus an email, they will send you a metal one (via your retailer).
> I did and they told me to go back to my retailer to collect a metal one, very good after sales service



Followed your advice... called Klarus U.S.A. a few weeks ago, just received the metal ring in the mail today.
Thanks for your suggestion!


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## eh123456 (Feb 28, 2013)

Good after sales service :thumbsup:




silverspurr said:


> Followed your advice... called Klarus U.S.A. a few weeks ago, just received the metal ring in the mail today.
> Thanks for your suggestion!


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## DogCompany (Oct 13, 2013)

Thank you for the great review. I purchased the light from a retailer that was offering the "aggressive bezel". I travel a lot internationally, and was worried it wouldn't get through TSA. So far, it has. Excellent light to have with me in foreign countries where I can't bring normal defense items. The antiroll cube does get snagged on the holster when inserting, but that seems to be my only complaint so far.


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## ledmitter_nli (Oct 13, 2013)

DogCompany said:


> Thank you for the great review. I purchased the light from a retailer that was offering the "aggressive bezel". I travel a lot internationally, and was worried it wouldn't get through TSA. So far, it has. Excellent light to have with me in foreign countries where I can't bring normal defense items. The antiroll cube does get snagged on the holster when inserting, but that seems to be my only complaint so far.



You probably got the upgraded version of the XT11 with an increased 820 lumens as well.


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## dougdebonet (Oct 24, 2013)

I have the 600 lumen version of the XT11, so far it has done wonderfully through tinted windows and such as I'm a LEO, however I have one HUGE gripe with it. My Callie's Customs 18650 3400 mAh batteries fit a bit snug, and i have to remove the head and tailcap and physically push them out of the body, my AW 3100 mAh batteries fit fine. Now the worst part, on both batteries, after extended periods of use, the positive button on the batteries are pushed into the cell 1/8" or more. It's very annoying because the button doesn't come into contact with the terminal on the 4sevens charger I have. Already had to throw away one Callies battery and I'm about to lose one of my AW's


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## Dirtbasher (Oct 25, 2013)

dougdebonet said:


> I have the 600 lumen version of the XT11, so far it has done wonderfully through tinted windows and such as I'm a LEO, however I have one HUGE gripe with it. My Callie's Customs 18650 3400 mAh batteries fit a bit snug, and i have to remove the head and tailcap and physically push them out of the body, my AW 3100 mAh batteries fit fine. Now the worst part, on both batteries, after extended periods of use, the positive button on the batteries are pushed into the cell 1/8" or more. It's very annoying because the button doesn't come into contact with the terminal on the 4sevens charger I have. Already had to throw away one Callies battery and I'm about to lose one of my AW's



That's because the internal battery compartment is designed for gun use , the recoil mustn't affect battery contact, so it's tight.
I use unprotected cells with no problems, on a single emitter I don't see the point of a protected cell.
Protected cells are too long.


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## masterchief tiger (Nov 27, 2013)

Also in my experience protected cells tend to loose contact because the circuit can be damaged by shock. I noticed this with my kalrus XT11 using a protected klarus protected battery. I thought there was something wrong with my switch because the light would turn off and on. Thought it was the ring on the tail cap but it was tight umtil i borrowed someone else unprotected battery and problem solved. So i removed my battery protector and problem solved.


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## garpt (Nov 27, 2013)

masterchief tiger said:


> Also in my experience protected cells tend to loose contact because the circuit can be damaged by shock. I noticed this with my kalrus XT11 using a protected klarus protected battery. I thought there was something wrong with my switch because the light would turn off and on. Thought it was the ring on the tail cap but it was tight umtil i borrowed someone else unprotected battery and problem solved. So i removed my battery protector and problem solved.



...But still love the seperate "mode" and "power" switches. Simple idea but very effective!


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## Chevy-SS (Jan 12, 2014)

Any reviews around for the new version XT-11 with 820 lumens???????


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## kj2 (Jan 13, 2014)

Chevy-SS said:


> Any reviews around for the new version XT-11 with 820 lumens???????


http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...s-XT11-(XM-L2-1x18650-2x-CR123a)-short-review


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## Chevy-SS (Jan 13, 2014)

kj2 said:


> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...s-XT11-(XM-L2-1x18650-2x-CR123a)-short-review




Thanks very much for the link, and the review!


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## Labrador72 (Jan 13, 2014)

You can see beamshots of the XM-L vs XM-L2 versions here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rn0lMH9ogR8


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## TEEJ (Jan 13, 2014)

If you load in two 18350 into the XT11 with the old XML T6...it bumps the out put to about 1,000 L.


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## ridngsxrs (Mar 20, 2014)

Because of this awesome review I went and bought a XT-11. I also purchased the stainless steel bezel but the bad part is I can't use the supplied flashlight holder when using the bezel.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 20, 2014)

ridngsxrs said:


> Because of this awesome review I went and bought a XT-11. I also purchased the stainless steel bezel but the bad part is I can't use the supplied flashlight holder when using the bezel.


Is that because it is an extended bezel, with longer crenelations? In any case, the XT-11 holster is pretty basic, so you may do better hunting around for something a little sturdier.

And :welcome:


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## Lord Muzzy (Mar 29, 2014)

Hi, great review @selfbuilt!

I have had a klarus XT11 for a nearly a couple of years now and love it! I usually run it on a single protected 18650 for the runtime advantage but when I fancy WOWing someone I will use a pair of AW IMR 16340's 3.7v 550mah for the extra output. (I purchased these to run my Thrunite catapult V1 without the extender for the same WOW factor effect because I read somewhere (probably on here) that they could handle the battery drain better than generic RCR 16340 3.7v)

Obviously the runtime is poor and I only have 2x AW 16340's. Could I use 2 standard unprotected rechargables 3.7v in the XT11 (I have plenty of these) What would be the advantages/disadvantages? What problems might I encounter? Why would it be a good/bad idea? I know Klarus doesnt recommend it but why?


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## TEEJ (Mar 29, 2014)

Lord Muzzy said:


> Hi, great review @selfbuilt!
> 
> I have had a klarus XT11 for a nearly a couple of years now and love it! I usually run it on a single protected 18650 for the runtime advantage but when I fancy WOWing someone I will use a pair of AW IMR 16340's 3.7v 550mah for the extra output. (I purchased these to run my Thrunite catapult V1 without the extender for the same WOW factor effect because I read somewhere (probably on here) that they could handle the battery drain better than generic RCR 16340 3.7v)
> 
> Obviously the runtime is poor and I only have 2x AW 16340's. Could I use 2 standard unprotected rechargables 3.7v in the XT11 (I have plenty of these) What would be the advantages/disadvantages? What problems might I encounter? Why would it be a good/bad idea? I know Klarus doesnt recommend it but why?



Instead of two IMR 16340, try two IMR 18350 instead. Its brighter, and runs longer.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 29, 2014)

Lord Muzzy said:


> Obviously the runtime is poor and I only have 2x AW 16340's. Could I use 2 standard unprotected rechargables 3.7v in the XT11 (I have plenty of these) What would be the advantages/disadvantages? What problems might I encounter? Why would it be a good/bad idea? I know Klarus doesnt recommend it but why?





TEEJ said:


> Instead of two IMR 16340, try two IMR 18350 instead. Its brighter, and runs longer.


I agree with TEEJ - 2x18350 IMR would be the best choice for a two cell setup in the XT11. Protected RCR are not really well suited in this light, due to the low cell capacity and high circuit drain.

What you are risking by going to unprotected cells is the extra safety of the protection circuit during operation. If something happened and one cell failed during operation, that could lead to a bad result quickly with unprotected cells. And of course, there is always the possibility of accidental over-discharge on unprotected cells (which then poses risks when it comes to recharging). 

If you use only paired cells from the same batch, carefully monitor the health of your cells (including recharging frequently and ensuring cells always remain well balanced for voltage), and never over-discharge, then you are likely to be ok with unprotected IMR (although failures can always happen).


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## Lord Muzzy (Mar 29, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> I agree with TEEJ - 2x18350 IMR would be the best choice for a two cell setup in the XT11. Protected RCR are not really well suited in this light, due to the low cell capacity and high circuit drain.
> 
> What you are risking by going to unprotected cells is the extra safety of the protection circuit during operation. If something happened and one cell failed during operation, that could lead to a bad result quickly with unprotected cells. And of course, there is always the possibility of accidental over-discharge on unprotected cells (which then poses risks when it comes to recharging).
> 
> If you use only paired cells from the same batch, carefully monitor the health of your cells (including recharging frequently and ensuring cells always remain well balanced for voltage), and never over-discharge, then you are likely to be ok with unprotected IMR (although failures can always happen).




Thank you for your help @selfbuilt and TEEJ! 2X IMR 18350's it is! I found these on eBay 
2 X Efest IMR 18350 800mah Flat Top

I have not heard of this make (but to be honest, I hadn't heard of 18350's) Are they a good battery?
If not could you recommend some that are reasonably priced?

Once again, many thanks!


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## selfbuilt (Mar 29, 2014)

Lord Muzzy said:


> 2 X Efest IMR 18350 800mah Flat Top


No idea about those. Personally, I stick with AW batteries, whenever in doubt. You'll find threads in CPFMP in the dealer subforum.


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## Lord Muzzy (Mar 29, 2014)

Understood! AW's it is.. Buy cheap, buy twice...


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## Nighted (Aug 20, 2015)

XT11 2014 edition with the updated secondary switch.

I do NOT recommend this version. After less than a month and 4 times used:


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## dreadmeat (Feb 23, 2016)

Hi guys, I'm trying to get some specs for my Klarus XT11 XM-L U2 X5TH10182

Photo below hopefully
https://twitter.com/dreadmeat/status/702281174597566465


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## dreadmeat (Feb 23, 2016)

Hi guys, I'm trying to get some specs for my Klarus XT11 XM-L U2 X5TH10182

Photo below hopefully
https://twitter.com/dreadmeat/status/702281174597566465


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## zs&tas (Feb 25, 2016)

Page one of this very thread is a review of your light ?


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