# Mag11 vs Mag ROP question.



## iced_theater (Jan 30, 2006)

I can't seem to find what I'm looking for from searching so how does the 6AA-2D Mag11 compare against a 6aa-2D Mag ROP? I'm looking at brightness and runtime. Also, by camless smo reflector does that mean it's non focusing?


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## Flakey (Jan 30, 2006)

i dont know about brightness/runtime between the 2 but cammless does mean that the beam cannot be focused on the fly, rather you get the focus adjusted just the way you like it and then leave it. this works alot better if you use a reflector with orange peeling or stippling, as these reflectors will create both a smoother beam and more sidespill. as with everything there is a tradeoff, Smo will give you a farther throwing beam, while OP or stipple will give you a beam that wont throw as far but will be more pleaseing to the eyes and more useable in everyday life. there are people out there that make cammed alluminum reflectors though, i believe fivemega has some for sale.


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## bwaites (Jan 30, 2006)

In order of brightness:

Mag 3D stock
through 
Mag 6D stock

Magcharger stock

MagCharger 60 (MagCharger with Welch Allyn 1160)

Mag 11

Mag 74

ROP

Mag 85



Bill


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## CLHC (Jan 30, 2006)

Hey! My Mag.11 is One Bright Lighting Illuminator I must say! No if and or buts here! ! !


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## Bob_G (Jan 30, 2006)

> Mag 11
> 
> Mag 74
> 
> ...


I don't know anything about Mag mods, but shouldn't the Mag 11 (I'm assuming that means WA 1111) be brighter than the Mag 74 (WA 1274 I assume?) 

If not, then why not, if you don't mind me asking? Also, wouldn't the Mag 74 be about the same as the low output ROP?

In other words, I thought it would be something like:

Mag 74/ROP Low
Mag 11
ROP High
Mag 85

This is all assuming 6xAA. I though I had this more or less figured out, but now I'm confused


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## bwaites (Jan 30, 2006)

Mag 2D-6D are obvious- 2,3,4,5,6 D cells

MagCharger/MagCharger60 is 5 1/2D cells

Mag11 is 6 1.2 volt NiMH cells

Mag74 is 7 1.2 volt NiMH cells

ROP is 6 High Output or 7 standard 1.2 volt NiMH cells

Mag85 is 8 High Output or 9 standard/high output 1.2 volt NiMH cells

The Mag74 on 7 cells, a 7.2 volt lamp overdriven to 8.4 volts, is brighter than the Mag11, which is a 6 volt lamp being overdriven at 7.2 volts.

Bill


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## litho123 (Jan 30, 2006)

Bob_G said:


> I don't know anything about Mag mods, but shouldn't the Mag 11 (I'm assuming that means WA 1111) be brighter than the Mag 74 (WA 1274 I assume?)


 
Some of the posts one reads can be confusing...especially when it comes to comparing the WA1111 and WA1274 bulb.

When both bulbs are run off of 6 nimh cells, the 1111 will be brighter than the 1274 on 6 cells. 

The 1274 however, is an ideal bulb to drive off of 7 nimh cells. When the 1274 is run off of 7 nimh cells, it will be brighter than the 1111 on 6 nimh cells.


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## Bob_G (Jan 30, 2006)

Thanks, perfect answer. I didn't know the Mag74 was overdriven.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Jan 30, 2006)

I'm now on the ROP bandwagon!

Thanks to NickZ I have a ROP High. I tried a lot of stuff and it compares nicely to many other bulbs. But I find it REALLY shines on two unprotected 18650s through a SMO reflector and glass lense.

I now have a 2C light that is REALLY bright!

1111 doesn't focus well in a SMO or LOP for me or would have already been my fave.

But this 2C ROP is something else! Only thing that smokes it is 3D 1185.


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## Bob_G (Jan 30, 2006)

> Some of the posts one reads can be confusing...especially when it comes to comparing the WA1111 and WA1274 bulb.
> 
> When both bulbs are run off of 6 nimh cells, the 1111 will be brighter than the 1274 on 6 cells.
> 
> The 1274 however, is an ideal bulb to drive off of 7 nimh cells. When the 1274 is run off of 7 nimh cells, it will be brighter than the 1111 on 6 nimh cells.


Yep, that's exactly what happened - most of the things I see on them tend to be 7.2v applications, so it got stuck in my head. 

Sorry for seeming to ignore your answer - you snuck in while i was thanking Bill


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## lazee (Jan 30, 2006)

to be frankly honest, all these lights are all already damn bright and to really see the difference in brightness is to put them side by side and compare. just showing my frends my rop already gets a big wow lol :laughing:


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## KevinL (Jan 31, 2006)

PBJS, congratulations! Last we spoke you were trying to gather a suitable battery solution for the light, and I'm glad to see that you've arrived  :twothumbs:

My WA1111 was never really all it could be for some reason, I much prefer the ROP bulb. It was in part due to the failings of the WA1111 that inspired me to look for something better - and the answer was the Pelican #3854


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## Flakey (Jan 31, 2006)

litho123 said:


> Some of the posts one reads can be confusing...especially when it comes to comparing the WA1111 and WA1274 bulb.
> 
> When both bulbs are run off of 6 nimh cells, the 1111 will be brighter than the 1274 on 6 cells.
> 
> The 1274 however, is an ideal bulb to drive off of 7 nimh cells. When the 1274 is run off of 7 nimh cells, it will be brighter than the 1111 on 6 nimh cells.



ideal if it doesnt instaflash first =P i have plenty of experience with 7c and a 1274 that suggests that this combo is ideal with about 8 hours of battery rest


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## bwaites (Jan 31, 2006)

Flakey,

What cells are you running that keep popping 1274's.

I have run them on 7 1/2D cells without problems.

None of the SuperBulbs should be run at overdrive levels hot off the charger, so if you are using very high output/current cells, like some of the SubC electric racing cells, I would expect some problems. Other wise, no.

Bill


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## FredM (Jan 31, 2006)

Is the ROP HO being overdriven harder on 7 cells than the mag 74 is on 7 cells?

I thought most people used it with 6 cells right?


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Jan 31, 2006)

I'm forced to ask one further question.

2x18650 hot off the charger may have 8.4V. Can they give up enough current from the start to flash a 3854? Incidently, before I popped them into the DSD charger from AW, I saw 4.10 Amp draw in this ROP 2C. Sound correct?


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## KevinL (Jan 31, 2006)

4.1 amps is pretty much in the ballpark of what you should be looking at. 

No risk of flashing because lithium ion voltage plunges due to voltage sag. I light my big ROP off high-current SubCs (which incidentally charge to around 8.6V) hot off the charger with no flash risk, and HC Sub-Cs sag a whole lot less compared to lithium ions.


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## Flakey (Jan 31, 2006)

bwates,
When i was having trouble with the 1274's i was using 7 5000mAh C cells in a 6D i found that even 2 hours off of the charger they will still do damage to a 1274. With 8 hours rest they work great though. but i am on to bigger and better things these days, right now im waitng for 6v 35W westinghouse bulbs to arrive.


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## bwaites (Jan 31, 2006)

Flakey,

That makes some sense now. Those big cells will not sag under load much, and they really will hold almost 1.4 volts each, so instead of 8.4 volts, you are hitting the lamp with between 9.1 and 9.8 volts. Hot off the charger it might even be closer to 10.5 volts. 

Bill


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## cratz2 (Jan 31, 2006)

My next project (which should come together pretty quickly when I get the bulb) is a ROP Low in a 2C on 18650s.

I read in KevinL's original thread about how the Low bulb tends to be whiter on two LiONs than the High is on two LiONs. Is this because of the design of the bulb or just because the LiONs sag so much more at the higher current draw?

Honestly, I've found that the TL-3 is bright enough for almost all of my needs and wants... But a little big brighter, with a little bit more throw, with a little bit longer runtime would be great... That's the main reason I'm going with the ROP low build this time.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Jan 31, 2006)

It would be interesting to try a ROP LOW but all I have is a HI.

It is damn nice on two AW 18650s. It MIGHT be a little brighter on 7AA NimH, but I have no way to compare. Besides, 2C is a lot more fun than 2D!

I have a buddy trying to find some ROP bulbs in Houston.


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## DrPest (Feb 2, 2006)

How big is the risk to flash a ROP bulb with 6 AA hot of the charger?


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## igabo (Feb 2, 2006)

DrPest said:


> How big is the risk to flash a ROP bulb with 6 AA hot of the charger?



From what I hear, there isn't much risk, considering there have been reported instances of using 7 cells. 6 hot cells should be fine.


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## lexina (Feb 13, 2006)

bwaites said:


> In order of brightness:
> 
> 
> Mag 11
> ...


 
Hi, Bill

I got my ROP bulbs yesterday and immediately did some comparisons amongst the 3 bulbs. My results were slightly different; in order of increasing brightness and whiteness -

Mag 11 in 2D (6 X Sanyo's 2500mAh AAs)
ROP High in 2C (2 X Aw's 18650s)
Mag 74 in 2D (7 X Sanyo's 2500mAh AAs)

I noticed that you ran the ROP on 6/7 AAs and wonder if this could be the cause of the difference in observation.


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## iced_theater (Feb 14, 2006)

I like the Mag11 I got, I think I just want a LOP or MOP reflector though instead of the SMO that I have. Also wish for longer runtime, but 40 minutes is pretty decent considering.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Feb 14, 2006)

I haven't tried it lately, but I ordered a MOP reflector specifically for the 1111. In my case a LOP couldn't quite tame it.


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## kennyj (Feb 17, 2006)

I have a few question related to discussion on this thread. How do these bulbs (1111, 1274, ROP) compare when strictly dealing with 2x18650? I'm considering a 2C Mag with two of the new Pila 600Ps (I want protection and the Pilas can apparently handle the amperage) and I already have a KIU socket I can install, to reap the benefits of bi-pin bulbs (though I only see the 1111 at light-edge.com, and their bi-pin 1111 is out of stock.)

Another concern of mine is how these bulbs compare as the batteries drain, and how their runtimes compare. As they approach 6 volts, I'd expect the now-underdriven 1274 to be outdone by the 1111 and ROP, which would actually be at spec on a near-dead set of batteries.


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## Kryosphinx (Apr 11, 2006)

kennyj said:


> I have a few question related to discussion on this thread. How do these bulbs (1111, 1274, ROP) compare when strictly dealing with 2x18650?



Bump


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## lexina (Apr 11, 2006)

duplicate


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## lexina (Apr 11, 2006)

kennyj said:


> I have a few question related to discussion on this thread. How do these bulbs (1111, 1274, ROP) compare when strictly dealing with 2x18650?


 
Of the 3, my favourite is the 1111 when using 2 X 18650. The 1274 is a 7.2v bulb and will not be as over-driven as the 1111 and the ROP-High, both of which are 6v bulbs. Between the 1111 and the ROP, the ROP has a higher current draw at 4A while the 1111 is rated at 3.35A so theoretically, the ROP should be brighter albeit with a shorter run time (ard 25-30 mins). I have had problem keeping my ROP on for more than a couple of minutes continuous due to the high current draw (but this could be due to my particular cells) and I agree with KevinL that the 18650s are prob more suited for the ROP-Low.


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## kennyj (Apr 12, 2006)

lexina said:


> Of the 3, my favourite is the 1111 when using 2 X 18650. The 1274 is a 7.2v bulb and will not be as over-driven as the 1111 and the ROP-High, both of which are 6v bulbs. Between the 1111 and the ROP, the ROP has a higher current draw at 4A while the 1111 is rated at 3.35A so theoretically, the ROP should be brighter albeit with a shorter run time (ard 25-30 mins). I have had problem keeping my ROP on for more than a couple of minutes continuous due to the high current draw (but this could be due to my particular cells) and I agree with KevinL that the 18650s are prob more suited for the ROP-Low.




Which batteries are you using?

Also, how bright/white is the 1111 compared to the ROP LO and HO?

While I'm at it... can the 1111 run on protected cells?


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## lexina (Apr 13, 2006)

I am using Aw's unprotected 18650s. I have not tried protected 18650s because they won't fit into my 2C unless I do some modification to the switch but I doubt the protected cells will be able to drive any of the "superbulbs".

I believe the 1111 lies midway (or, maybe four-fifths!) between the ROP-L and ROP-H. The 1111 is rated at 880 bulb lumens and approx 570 output lumens at 7.2v. Those are impressive numbers. I don't have the numbers for the ROPs but you could try a search on this forum. Ultimately, I like the 1111 for the balance of whiteness, brightness and run-time.


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## kennyj (Apr 13, 2006)

How long can you get it to run for?

I'm wary of the ROP Hi's output from 2x18650 due to voltage sag, but the 1111 might be more realistic...


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## lexina (Apr 13, 2006)

the 1111 is rated at 3.35A so if you are using 2200mAh cells, you should be able to run it for approx (2200/3350 X 60 X 0.85) = 33.5 mins (I am using a 15% discount factor to take into account inefficiencies, state of cell etc).


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## kennyj (Apr 13, 2006)

Hmm, y'know, AW's protected 18650s can do 4A +- .5A... if only there were a way around the massive startup draw, you could run the WA1111 on such a cell. Until a decent soft-start solution can fit in the Mag C host, though, I think I'll just have to deal with unprotected cells.

How's the beam? I've heard many not-so-nice things about the effect the WA1111's large filament has on both beam smoothness and throw, at least relative to the ROP bulbs and the WA1274. I'm starting to think that it might be a worthy solution to my indecisiveness over whether I should plan on using the ROP Low or ROP Hi, but the bad things I've heard about this bulb make me a little cautious.

I was planning on using a MOP reflector with either of the ROP bulbs for a compromise between smoothness/flood and throw.


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## Delvance (Apr 13, 2006)

What bad things about the ROP bulbs Kennyj ? I've used them for awile and have not one negative comment regarding them.


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## kennyj (Apr 13, 2006)

Bad things about the WA1111, not the ROP bulbs. 

The only remotely negative things I've ever heard about the ROPs is that the high-output bulb can't run on any existing protected cells, and even that's only a subjective disadvantage (ie. most people don't care.) It also doesn't fit in modded reflectors with a smaller hole (the low-output ROP does) though the hole needs only be slightly bigger and this can sometimes be accomodated. If you plan on using the high-output bulb when you buy the reflector, and the requisite reflector is available when you do, then it's not even an issue. You can still use standard-dimension reflectors as well without an issue, but I want that extra 5-10% of output lumens. 

I wouldn't call these serious drawbacks, however, just minor considerations.


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## Delvance (Apr 13, 2006)

Ahh gotcha Kennyj! Yeah i guess how it doesn't fit some small opening reflectors can be chalked under disadvantages. 

5~10% extra output ? Check out my thread on stock [email protected] reflector vs FM2 reflector under "incan" section. I actually got over 20% extra output by changing to a small hole reflector


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## Bob_G (Apr 13, 2006)

> I've heard many not-so-nice things about the effect the WA1111's large filament has on both beam smoothness and throw, at least relative to the ROP bulbs and the WA1274.


I've been getting into hotwires the last few weeks after a year of intensive LED study  Naturally, I'm sensitive to beam shape and characteristics, more so than maybe pure hotwire guys are. I have three light at ~600L - one each with a 1111, 1274 and 1331. I have 8 reflectors so far, no wait, 9, one just came today. The ONLY solution I've found so far that satisfies me is the M2-LS on the 1111. 

The thing with these lights for me is that the power needs to balanced to the beam, and the working distance the user desires. For me, the M2-LS is a perfect compromise between spot size and _shape_, distance and minimal artifacts. 

No, I haven't tried it on the 1274, but the *M*S on the 1274 has more artifacts and a less round spot than the LS on the 1111, so go figure. I have a couple FM deep reflector ones on order, and you might want to go through that thread in the Group Buy forum. There are some interesting comments on its performance with the ROP (negative.) Just one user, but the relationship between specific bulbs and reflectors is obviously an issue. 

On a side note, I've also tried frosting two bulbs, a 1274 (lower half) and a 1331 (full.) The full frosted 1331 in a Mag spec SMO reflector makes a nice beam - tons of spill and sort of center weighted (in other words, floody.) Frosting the 1274 was a disaster - totally killed the spot, I actually thought I goofed and put old batteries in it, but no, any reflector, fresh batteries, and it was terrible. 

Conclusion: If you're picky like me, plan on spending money on various reflectors, most of which you won't use, to find the solution that works for you. Don't forget that most of the comments you see are based on that particular user's criteria, which might not coincide with yours at all.


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## Rando (Apr 13, 2006)

When you replace the plastic lens cover with the borofloat or UCL lens, do you discard the rubber gasket that came with the original lens? It seems that if the lens and reflector would melt then the gasket wouldn't stand up to the heat either.


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## Cliffnopus (Apr 13, 2006)

If it's a silicone gasket then it will take the high temp OK. If it's not silicone then you'd need to look at the gasket material specification to see its temperature rating.

Cliff


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## 91101 (Apr 13, 2006)

I didn't get rid of the o-ring on my ROP and have had no problems with it..

I run my ROP on 7aa's and have measured temps in excess of 300F at the lens.



Rando said:


> When you replace the plastic lens cover with the borofloat or UCL lens, do you discard the rubber gasket that came with the original lens? It seems that if the lens and reflector would melt then the gasket wouldn't stand up to the heat either.


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## kennyj (Apr 14, 2006)

Bob_G: Purely out of curiosity, how does the throw on LS compare to the various OP finishes? Is it progressively reduced to some extent or is it comparable to the MOP or HOP?

On a more practical note, it does throw with the 1111, yes? I mean, I won't be driving the 1111 very hard on two 18650s, but if I can't throw some serious lumens down a few dozen yards or more, the light's usefulness is limited. An ideal goal for me would be the ability to clearly recognize details on objects at 50+ yards. Granted, I don't need to be able to toast marshmellows at that distance, but hitting someone with some portable sunlight from a respectable distance has a lot of appeal to me.


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## Bob_G (Apr 14, 2006)

kennyj,

Just got a MOP today and haven't even opened the package - didn't feel up to another round of comparing reflectors. I'm curious about the same thing though, so probably will check them out tonight. 

Note that it's an M2-LS from modamag, so it isn't the standard Mag profile, it's narrower in diameter. I'm sure the MOP will have a tighter spot, but these things have enough output that at reasonable distances a larger spot is desirable to me. At 50 yards, you'll definitely have a recognizable spot, I'd guestimate 12 - 16 feet wide. 

The big thing to me is getting rid of the filament artifact (batwing) and the M2-LS is the best at this so far without killing the throw entirely. Killing the throw entirely isn't a bad thing though - the HS is a hoot, 600 lumens of flood. Must be something to see on a Mag85.

Oh, you know that litho123 in the Sell forum has all the common bulbs for sale don't you? The stippled reflectors he has are Mag spec though, not the one we're talking about (the MOP I got today is from FM, with the removable cam.)


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## kennyj (Apr 14, 2006)

Interesting. I did see litho's sale and took note of the MM groupbuy. I'm definitely looking forward to hearing about how the MOP works for you...

I take it you haven't had the opportunity to test out the HOP?


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## jefft (Apr 14, 2006)

I have to agree with the posters regarding the 2C form factor running the WA1111 as well as the ROP. I have the same reflector combo as Bob_G with the WA1111 and a M2-LS. I think it's the best compromise between throw and artifact. I prefer the ROP hi in a 6C host or my 6CBP2500A pack in a bored-out 2D because of the run-time. ROP hi with CBP1650s in a 2D or the LG 18650 cells in a 2C just don't last long enough to be practical. ROP hi bulb with the LS is also very nice. What supplements the 2C WA1111 perfectly is the ROP low in the 2C with the LG cells (over an hour of runtime). I use a M2-HS in this setup and the proverbial "wall of light" is probably the most useful beam for most tasks in real-world situations. (unless you're trying to blind your neighbors down the street or impress mini-mag users) I probably use this light the most.


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## Bob_G (Apr 15, 2006)

kennyj,

No, the HOP is the only surface I don't have. 

I played with the FM MOP tonight. The ream is larger than I thought it would be, almost three times the size of the bulb. Not as honkin' as a spec cammed reflector, but still larger than I figured on. 

This is all very confusing if you like to really dial something in. I took a 1274 and 1111 out tonight, with the M2-LS and FM-MOP. Wandered around a partly wooded area (I live in the country) and then took the dog for a walk down a deserted road with large fields and distant trees. 

First observation, the 1111 is sweet. No doubt it has less "negative interaction" with the reflector. Very strange to me - the M2 has a large ridge around the circumference to accommodate it's smaller reflective diameter, and with the 1274 makes a pronounced bezel/edge artifact. But, it also has a more pronounced batwing, or at least one that's harder to dial out. So, it has both a central and a peripheral artifact, which just seems weird.

With the 1111, that edge artifact is almost below consciousness - very different - and with either reflector had a nicer, rounder spot. The MOP was pretty darn nice with it. Noticeably more throw, not too bad artifacts, and the spot was respectable, if not actually pretty. The usefulness of either would depend on a user's normal working distances. I think you're going to have to get both, it really is a toss-up, they both have merits.

I'm seriously tempted to get a M2 in MOP to see what the difference is. It's a significantly different product, with a tiny hole, and smaller diameter overall. I'm not convinced yet though that really small reams make any good difference. It could be that the only extra light you get is going right into spot artifacts, but that's beyond me. I tried to read up on photon management in reflectors once and it took me days to recover. It looks real nice, having the bulb snuggled in there though  Since the ones I have are stippled, I suppose I'll end up getting a lighter one just to see how the concept plays out, since overall the M2-LS would be my favorite so far if I had to pick just one.

Side note - this is all so subjective and frustrating. The spot on the 1274, which was bothersome when there were trees within say 50 yards, wasn't a problem at all in more open areas. The trees were reflecting back the artifacts, which I hadn't thought of until they were gone. In that kind of more open environment, the particulars of the spot ceased to have relevance, and throw was king. But it was frustrating to have as opinion you had confidence in just disappear. So it would seem working distance and near-field objects have a large influence on what you _think_ you're seeing.


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## kennyj (Apr 15, 2006)

Thanks for all the info. Very cool.

I've been playing with the hotrater.xls spreadsheet for a few days, plugging in the spec values for the ROP bulbs and comparing them against the 1111 for efficiency, amp draw, voltage drain, etc. Interestingly, the ROP HI is not as bright on 2x18650 as is commonly asserted - assuming a nominal battery voltage of 7.2 and a reflector efficiency of 65%, once you factor in sag, you're looking at 663 lumens out the front without factoring in lens losses. With a Borofloat lens, you can figure that you're getting about 600 lumens out. Amp draw is estimated at 4.35, just under 2C for 2200mAh cells, confirming the 20-30 minute runtime estimate but leaning a little closer to 20 due to the high drain (bear in mind that nominal capacity is tested at a load of 0.5C.)

These figures assume an overall circuit resistance of 50 miliohms, using a stock Mag switch with the full set of resistance-lowering mods and the stock PR bulb holder. Voltage delivered to the bulb is estimated at 6.98 (down from 7.2.) Higher-resistance configurations led to vbulb ratings as low as 6.6, and a lower lumen/watt efficiency, proving that if you want more runtime, relying on circuit inefficiencies isn't really the best plan.

The 1111 gets 542 lumens out the front before lens losses, or just shy of 500 with a Borofloat. Draw is 3.67A. On 2200mAh cells, this is just shy of 1.67C, still a high rate but more forgiving to the cell. Theoretical runtime based on division of amp draw from nominal capacity is 35 minutes; I'd estimate a minimum of 25 minutes with 30 minutes being a realistic possibility. The reduced amp draw will also extend the cells' lifespan somewhat (though good quality cells will still see several hundred cycles in either configuration.)

The 1111 calculations assume a 30 miliohm resistance from the stock switch and KIU ceramic socket. Voltage delivered to the bulb is estimated at 7.09, down from 7.2.

In either configuration I might get somewhat lower resistances owing to liberal use of ProGold and my tentative plan to solder in a copper grounding wire that will run from the switch to the tailcap (assuming it can fit) the end of which becomes the negative contact (in lieu of the deanodized tailcap and neodynium magnet / cut spring.) Resistance reduction will not be particularly impressive, but long-term resistance increases should be significantly reduced (no loss of conductivity from poor contact with the tailcap or between the tailcap and body.)

In other news, the ROP LO lamp blows away the ROP HI and all of the WA superbulbs in terms of efficiency - I don't have the spreadsheet in front of me, but I recall it seeing efficiency of over 40 lumens per watt, opposed to the low-30s observed from the WA bulbs. That puts it on par with an R-bin LuxI LED. With over 300 output lumens and a runtime of over an hour with 2200mAh cells, it's something you really have to respect.


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## lexina (Apr 18, 2006)

Thanks for sharing the research, kennyj. Your findings coincide with my observations. Both the 1274 and the ROP High shine only when they are run with 7AAs. If you are using 2 X 18650s, it's either the 1111 for brightness and whiteness or the ROP Low for less but still decent brightness and long run-time. After that, it's a matter of hunting for the right reflector!

As an aside, I also had close-to-ROP-Low performance from a stock Magcharger bi-pin bulb (rated at a similar 6v, 10w). This would be a useful alternative if you wanted to upgrade the stock switch to Kiu's bi-pin socket (since the ROP-Low would not work in Kiu's socket).


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