# New Solarforce L2D and C2000



## Blitzwing (Jan 11, 2014)

The L2D being a side switch P60 host, and the C2000 being a 2000 lumen mt-g2 light for 3x18650 in series and with carbon body.

S/F Sales list $30 and $134 respectively.


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## Aahhyes68 (Jan 11, 2014)

I was literally just looking at their website and saw that. I put a big order in a few days ago so this is very new. Kinda wished I would have waited..

Oh well..


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## LV426 (Jan 11, 2014)

But why "Reverse click switch"??? (L2D)


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## Mr. Tone (Jan 11, 2014)

I like the side switch host. I don't know if anyone else has a P60 host with a side switch. The C2000 is too long for my preference. 3x18650 is a pretty long handle, especially by modern standards. If we were back in the day of incandescent Maglites then it would not seem too long.


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## Mr. Tone (Jan 11, 2014)

LV426 said:


> But why "Reverse click switch"??? (L2D)



Most people seem to prefer a reverse clicky for multi-mode use and a forward clicky for single mode use.


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## DellSuperman (Jan 12, 2014)

Aahhyes68 said:


> I was literally just looking at their website and saw that. I put a big order in a few days ago so this is very new. Kinda wished I would have waited..
> 
> Oh well..



Same sentiments. 
I bought 3 extra hosts 2 weeks back. 
If i knew they are coming out with newer ones, i would have waited. 

- JonK


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## Blitzwing (Jan 12, 2014)

I have no desire to buy either really.


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## funkychateau (Jan 13, 2014)

Is the side switch part of the center tube or the head? Or is it a separate section that screws together between the two?


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## LilKevin715 (Jan 18, 2014)

The L2D certainly looks interesting, first side-switch P60 host I've seen so far. I probably wouldn't buy it but I do give props to Solarforce for thinking of a new twist for P60 hosts. 

If I did get one I would use it in combination with a foward clicky at the tailcap for dual switches. Use a foward clicky at the tailcap for momentary, while using the side reverse clicky to change modes.


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## seb13 (Jan 23, 2014)

funkychateau said:


> Is the side switch part of the center tube or the head? Or is it a separate section that screws together between the two?



I received mine today. So the switch is part of the body.
But right you can use a forward clicky so you have dual switch, that's very nice!


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## jorn (Jan 26, 2014)

2 X solarforce switch, it might be dual fail.


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## DellSuperman (Jan 27, 2014)

jorn said:


> 2 X solarforce switch, it might be dual fail.



Why is that so? 

- JonK


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## jorn (Jan 27, 2014)

The solarforce switches are not super quality. Have killed 4 solarforce switches. 
Love the solarforce, the L2T is one of my most used 18650 lights. But use to replace the switch with a mc-clicky switch. I dont think the new sideswitch can be replaced with a mc-clicky.

Sent from my LG-P880 using Tapatalk


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## DellSuperman (Jan 27, 2014)

Oh yes, i agree on the Solarforce switch durability... I've killed a couple myself. 

- JonK


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## kukkurovaca (Feb 15, 2014)

Solarforce L2D vs. L2P by kukkurovaca, on Flickr

I got an L2D recently -- out of curiosity, and because I generally like holding flashlights in a handshake grip, so a side switch seems like a good idea.

Overall, I like it a lot. The flats on the bezel work surprisingly well for preventing roll and make it easy to get a grip when you want to remove it, but they're smooth and surprisingly nice-looking. It's probably the most aesthetically-pleasing Solarforce bezel. However, it doesn't work with slip-on diffusers that fit the slimmer bezels. It has the flat steel bezel ring by default, which is nice.

The switch is much narrower and taller than I thought it would be, and is pretty firm. It doesn't seem like a casual brush against it would turn it on accidentally, but only time will tell whether it's something I need to worry about. There are thick fins that surround the rest of the tube there, which are interesting. They're not too sharp, although you definitely feel them. (And they help a bit in gripping it, I guess.) Also, the step-down from the neck of the tube where it meets the head to the switch hump is very smooth and comfortable, which is good, since your fingers are more likely to end up there than on a standard P60 host.

One interesting aspect to this body is that there's actually a barrier between the drop-in and the battery. I don't know whether this makes much difference in use -- but it does mean that if you're changing the drop-in, you don't have to worry about the battery falling out through the front.




L2D throat by kukkurovaca, on Flickr

On the other side of that wall, there's a spring to make contact with the battery.

The flats are positioned on the sides of the tube, 90 degrees from the switch. This is an unfortunate choice if you want to use the standard Solarforce clip, because it tends to work best lined up with those flats, and that means that either the switch or the lanyard hole are going to be jammed into your palm. This is too bad, because I think with a switch like this is might be better to have it clipped rather than loose in your pocket.

The L2D is a little bit longer than my L2P, because of the switch, but it's not too bad -- a bit over a centimeter in added length, maybe? (The difference is exaggerated in the terrible iPod photo b/c of perspective.)

The tailcap just has a spring it in and nothing else, of course. It's quite a bit shorter than a regular tailcap, which helps compensate for the added length of the body. It tailstands very well. : )

I haven't tried adding on extension tubes yet, but this would probably make a good setup for drop-ins that can run on two 18650s.


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## funkychateau (Feb 27, 2014)

kukkurovaca said:


> Solarforce L2D vs. L2P by kukkurovaca, on Flickr
> 
> The tailcap just has a spring it in and nothing else, of course. It's quite a bit shorter than a regular tailcap, which helps compensate for the added length of the body. It tailstands very well. : )



I wonder if the tailcaps are available as a replacement part. It would be interesting to machine a slight recess into one and mount a strong disc magnet.

Also, if this tailcap fits the standard L2, could it transform that light into a more compact version with a "twisty" interface?


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## kukkurovaca (Feb 27, 2014)

I think the issue will be with breaking contact. The threads on the L2D tailcap aren't anodized, so as soon as the cap makes contact with the body threads, the light will come on. 

I don't have a standard L2 on me right now, but I have the L2D and an Oveready TL20/P60/ZRS, and I found that if I left the L2D tailcap resting on the battery in the TL20 but not screwed on, I could use it as a sort of momentary -- pressing down (compressing the drop-in spring) to make contact would actually work pretty well as a pseudo-momentary switch. Of course, it would only work if you didn't mind having to store the tailcap and battery separately when not in use. : )

It's interesting; the L2D cap is _very _similar in size to the Oveready Diamondback w/ZRS. But the ZRS threads are anodized, of course.

I don't know whether it would work to leave the tailcap screwed on and twist at the head instead -- I think it takes quite a bit of turns to get the drop-in out of contact with the battery, and at that point it might be rattling more than is desirable.


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