# Flashlights & security officers



## jusval (Dec 2, 2008)

I'm a non comissioned security officer, so I don't carry a weapon. I work night shift in an area that has some crime. I make rounds in a very large warehouse. It is not a closed warehouse, meaning anyone can walk right in through overhead doors. I spend time in a guard shack as well. It's outside of the warehouse and is not really well lit. 

My question is about what type of flashlight (or flashlights) to carry?

First - I want something that really lights up the warehouse (it's not well lit & not lit at all in some areas). I want to be able to beam down an aisle and see 100-200 feet with a beam that spreads out (like a flood beam). I currently have a Brinkmann Halogen/L.E.D. Spotlight and it's BRIGHT, but of course it will go dim in about 5 minutes. I need more longevity.....

Second - would it be good to have a smaller light with a narrow intense beam for purposefully blinding someone, to keep them at bay for a few seconds and keep them from seeing me clearly? I would think that type of light might give me enough of a chance to decide if I need to reach for mace or a baton. It also might discourage the person enough to just get out, so I don't have to have a confrontation..... How many lumes does it take to temporarily disorientate/blind someone?

As usual cost is always a factor so I would appreciate some thoughts on good flashlights and then some thoughts on the cheaper ones (like the ebay chinese knock offs) as well.....

Also LED vs a regular bulb as far as longevity and stability from the inevitable drop or dings/nicks that are going to happen.

Thanks in advance for helping........


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## Bruce B (Dec 2, 2008)

Surefire G2 LED. Nice 80 lumens of bright light with a 12 hour runtime. 

I have one on the way and look forward to using it on the job.


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## LukeA (Dec 2, 2008)

Pelican 7060 or 8060. The 7060 was originally designed for the LAPD. The 8060 is its bigger sibling.

The 7060 is rated at 130 lumens, but it outperforms that by a wide margin. The 8060 is slightly brighter. 7060 lasts 1.5hr, 8060 lasts 4 hr with its rechargeable batt.

Both lights are rechargeable in a dock. The 8060 can take C cells in a pinch.

Pelican's customer service is absolutely unbeatable.


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## jusval (Dec 2, 2008)

I'm surprised so far. I really don't know enough at all about flashlights. I never would have thought so few lumens were necessary. I had read somewhere that it took about 150-200 lumens minimum to disorientate soemone enough for them to be blinded by the light. So much for reading......

Really I thought I would have to get to 400-500 lumens to get to the floodlight stage, but I know the reflector style must have a lot to do with it.

The 7060 and 8060 are really bright! What about the "generic" versions of them (chinese)?

 I should probably qualify the price more clearly.

To me, a $20 flashlight is expensive.......... and I would have to save for a month to buy a $50 one..... I only work part time for cheap, so it's got to be a lot less than $120 flashlight.......

But those Pelicans are awesome flashlights.........


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## Burgess (Dec 2, 2008)

to Jusval --


Welcome to CandlePowerForums !


:welcome:



Hope you find some suitable flashlights. 


Stay safe.

_


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## Sgt. LED (Dec 2, 2008)

If it was me I would have something LED, tough, *not* custom, able to run off rechargable or primary cells for when the rechargable cells run out, big, bright, and a runtime to 50% of at LEAST half of my shift.

Pelican 8060 sounds really good to me actually!


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## isc (Dec 2, 2008)

Surefire G3L.

Long ago, in a galaxy far, far away, I would've really, really liked to have had an LED Surefire with long batteries when I was on long, lonely nightshifts on a wide open state government site. We had rechargeable [email protected] style monsters which had been run in to the ground long before I ever worked there, and my E2E got a workout, burning through several sets of batteries in my first 2 weeks, learning the ins and the outs of the place in the dark.

My reasoning behind the G3L?

Reasonably light for what it is.
LONG burn time (9 hours?)
Bright enough to give you the temporary blinding needed if you find someone doing something they shouldn't.

Also, I suggest you find something which you can *LEGALLY *carry, even if its not within company policy. Back when I was doing night shift security work, I always maintained my security baton and handcuff proficiency - I was legally allowed to carry, but I was in breach of company policy. The baton, an extendable one, stayed in a holster inside my pocket. At the end of the day, the only way I was going to lose my job is if I had to pull it and use it, and the only time I was going to pull it and use it was if my life, or the safety of a coworker or innocent person, was threatened. You can get a new job tomorrow. Should you be injured with a knife, you won't be able to get a new life.


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## jusval (Dec 2, 2008)

isc said:


> Surefire G3L.
> 
> Also, I suggest you find something which you can *LEGALLY *carry, even if its not within company policy. Back when I was doing night shift security work, I always maintained my security baton and handcuff proficiency - I was legally allowed to carry, but I was in breach of company policy. The baton, an extendable one, stayed in a holster inside my pocket. At the end of the day, the only way I was going to lose my job is if I had to pull it and use it, and the only time I was going to pull it and use it was if my life, or the safety of a coworker or innocent person, was threatened. You can get a new job tomorrow. Should you be injured with a knife, you won't be able to get a new life.


 
Well, it's East TX and I can legally carry just about what I want, from Mace, to a Stun gun, to a baton, but I just don't really want to carry any of it. Being part time and semi-retired due to health reasons, I am not proficient and would probably just get my but beat worse when someone took my baton away, so a really bright light and probably mace or a loud alarm might be the best way........

Actually I probably could just make a battery pack for the Brinkman out of 10,000 mah NiMh batteries wired series/parallel and plug it into the charge port as an auxilliary for the flashlight and give it longer life....... Maybe? and then just get a spot beam like the ones suggested for disorientation..... Hmmmm...........


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## HKJ (Dec 2, 2008)

Check the MVP it is a powerfull led flashlight that runs on 18650 lithium Ion batteries and can run for more than 1 hour at full output. Selecting a lower light level, gives your many hours of light.

For even more light, your need a HID flashlight, one of the cheapest, with lots of light, is MicroFire K3500R, it will run for just under an hour and only has one level. The output from this kind of flashlight are very close to the high beam from a car.


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## sORe-EyEz (Dec 2, 2008)

one recommendation for Inova T1 2008! compact in size, bright. not sure if Surefire E2L fits the bill but the previous single-stage version does 9hours on a set of lithiums, the newer dual-stage does 6hours on high- on a flat or near flat output. :twothumbs

IMO, G2L does not maintain the 80lumens throughout the 12hours of stated runtime.


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## BlueBeam22 (Dec 2, 2008)

I recommend you get the *Coleman 530 lumen LED rechargeable spotlight* $60 from Sears or $45 from Walmart.com. This light has a throw of over 1/4 of a mile, so it will easily light up a swath of a large warehouse from end to end, and should have more throw and a more intense beam than your Brinkmann spotlight (more intense beam and throw than your Brinkmann's main halogen beam).
The Coleman is rechargeable and runs for 2.5 hours on a full charge, which is AMAZING. It can also be run directly from both its AC adaptor and DC car charger adaptors for unlimited runtime. It has a very intense beam and is blinding and disorienting at close range. It is a black pistol-grip style spotlight and very comfortable to hold.


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## Monocrom (Dec 2, 2008)

jusval said:


> I'm surprised so far. I really don't know enough at all about flashlights. I never would have thought so few lumens were necessary. I had read somewhere that it took about 150-200 lumens minimum to disorientate soemone enough for them to be blinded by the light. So much for reading.......


 
Who ever it was that wrote that is a damn idiot who should be beaten for giving out such utterly worthless self-defense advice! 

You can also forget about #2 from your original post. You'll get, at most, a second of distraction time if you hit someone in the eyes from a bright light. And you better be ready to defend yourself, because no intruder is going to run off into the night due to a bright blast of light to the face. That's not happening. It's not about _if _you should reach for your Mace or baton. It's about not letting a potential threat go unseen so that you can still have time to reach for your Mace or baton. 

Don't rely on the beam from a flashlight to keep you safe. Cause it's not going to!

Oh yeah..... Welcome to CPF.


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## rala (Dec 2, 2008)

I would carry 3 lights minimum. I would not recommend a custom build as a primary light due to reliability issues. That one can stay desk top in the shack same with the spotlight, too big and bulky. Also for a primary, I would get something that is rechargeable or can use rechargeables since it would be used often. Since you think a $20 light is expensive, I'll try to keep my suggestions cheap.

1.Ultrafire wf-500 w/AW 18650's
2.Ultrafire C2 w/ 18650
3.Surefire G2, Brinkmann Maxfire, or Streamlight Scorpion

I know they are all over $20, but those are as cheap as I would get. All are light weight and shouldn't hinder a fast getaway if the need arises. My opinions on carrying a baton, mace, cuffs, or any other gear is that if your not efficient in its use, don't.


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## LED61 (Dec 2, 2008)

I second rala for item #1 above. It can be had rechargeable for about $60 charger included. Plenty bright, will run for about 1 hour.

If you want to go brighter and for a warehouse seems reasonable, you can also spend about $190 for a wolfeyes M300 Lion. Now that is REALLY bright incandescent, rechargeable, and will run slightly over an hour.


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## TMedina (Dec 2, 2008)

The MiniMag x3 AA LED is cheap, batteries are cheap and the metal body will take casual abuse reasonably well. You can also find the light in just about any chain, from Target to Wal-Mart. The light output isn't tactical standard, but it works well enough for working and casual foot patrol.

The bottom line is, don't ever count on a flashlight as a weapon unless you mean to use it like a club.

Anything using a CR123 battery will become very expensive in terms of batteries used, never mind initial purchase - even if you opt for a Chinese import. A Pelican PM6 3330 LED isn't bad, priced at $25 or so, but you'll feel the bite in buying batteries pretty regularly and it still isn't tactical level output.

-Trevor


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## C4LED (Dec 2, 2008)

TMedina said:


> *The MiniMag x3 AA LED* is cheap, batteries are cheap and the metal body will take casual abuse reasonably well. You can also find the light in just about any chain, from Target to Wal-Mart. The light output isn't tactical standard, but it works well enough for working and casual foot patrol.



This is a pretty good compromise considering the wide array of criteria you want (more contradictory than you probably realize is); small size, low price, high power, reliable, etc....

You can also use rechargeable AA's with this.


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## jusval (Dec 2, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> Who ever it was that wrote that is a damn idiot who should be beaten for giving out such utterly worthless self-defense advice!
> 
> _You can also forget about #2 from your original post. You'll get, at most, a second of distraction time if you hit someone in the eyes from a bright light. And you better be ready to defend yourself, because no intruder is going to run off into the night due to a bright blast of light to the face. That's not happening. It's not about if you should reach for your Mace or baton. It's about not letting a potential threat go unseen so that you can still have time to reach for your Mace or baton. _
> _ _
> ...


 
Yes, I read a thread about "False sense of Security" with a flashlight. I believe you are right. I think that's what I'm looking for, because I don't want to ever use Mace or a Baton. I don't like fighting (self defense). I took the guard job just like the other retiree's did. It's about all we can get for a job any more. After the stroke, I don't get many job offers and it's a good thing..... You should see how many times I have to spell check these posts! :laughing: 
I wear my security name tag to remember my own name now! 

Anyhow I will be looking for a good flashlight for lighting up the dark areas. It can't hurt.... I'm really grateful for all the options you all are giving me. It helps to hear from people using this stuff and what you all have to say..... I probably will carry mace, but I have to check with the owners first. I think they look at it as "run away, just run away and call 911" Unfortunately I don't run, I walk slow....


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## jusval (Dec 2, 2008)

The more I think about the battery pack add-on for the Brinkman Halogen I have now, the better I like it. I can buy a 12v, 2.3 amp hour Camcorder battery for about $15 and a charger for about $10. I could slide it in a pouch on my side and just use a cord from it to the Brinkman. I would think that it would give sufficient additional time to the light, but I'd better do some checks on a tester, to see what draw is on the Brinkman. It might be a viable option.

I still want to get something like what many of you have offered as a smaller style which can be holstered. I like that idea. I like the LED idea too. I really am surprised at the power of the LED flashlights. Very interesting..... Unenlightened, Ya that's me!


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## pete7226 (Dec 2, 2008)

I'm going to comment on this as I have some thoughts as a Policeman (Chicago) and this topic seems to pop up every few weeks. I'd ditch the thought of using a g2 as your primary light, simply not enough light. Blinding someone is temporary(it only buys you time) remember that and adjust your tactics accordingly. Your job role demands a brighter light. You need to be able to CLEARLY identify threats/objects quickly, sometimes in big areas. I would find something that puts out over 250 lumens at the least, preferably closer to 500 and has medium-long throw, as your primary light. There are dozens of excellent lights in this range. Some cheaper than others. 
I'd make your primary a strong Incandescent-cant be beat for color rendition, important in high-risk scenarios, and your backup, Led-with a long run-time(for rescue-non-life threatening scenarios). Have an extra set of batteries for both.I'm assuming you are new to flashoholism so I'll suggest some stock setups. 
Two of my favorites, Surefire HOLA M3/M4 TurboHead. These can also use rechargeable batteries if you search the forum. Once you familiarize yourself with this forum you will see that there are many cheaper Mag-lite custom setups that you can put together that will put out a ton of lumens for half the cost of the Surefires. Search for mag11, mag85. Both excellent lights with the mag11 run-time being much longer than the 85 but not as bright (550vs750 lumens) out the front. The choices are too many to list, the fact that you are on this forum shows that you care more than the average joe about your tools of the trade, its a good start. Do some research here and you will find a light that meets your needs. Dont sacrifice output/quality for price. Your safety is in your own hands.:welcome:


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## divine (Dec 2, 2008)

You can have someone seeing spots for a few minutes with a 30 lumen light, even when their eyes are adjusted to office lighting (probably not outdoors, though).

The lights we deal with on here are somewhat off the board compared to what useful light is. :devil:


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## rala (Dec 2, 2008)

I would use the the 3xAA [email protected] LED as a backup to my primary and secondary, but definately not as a primary. I for one would prefer to light up the shadow I just saw move from afar than to have to get close to use my light.

As for lithium powered lights, I would use those as backups too as I don't intend on having to using them and the long shelf life of lithiums adds some insurance that it will work when I finally do need it. But I definately prefer both my primary and secondary to use the same type of rechargeable cells, as I would use those 99% of the time. Oh and I do carry two extra set of 18650's on my person for the times I do need more runtime.


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## Juggernaut (Dec 2, 2008)

jusval said:


> How many lumes does it take to temporarily disorientate/blind someone?


 
Exactly 4005.76 lumens out front of the *MAXABLASTER*. They will never see again:devil:. But seriously unless your toting around something like this^ you really can’t depend on a light for self defense, it’s really a last resort thing, there are many threads on it here if your willing to look them up, that deal with the subject:candle:.


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## lightplay22 (Dec 2, 2008)

Ultra stinger for long throw illumination and (hopefully not) head clucking. 
Pair that with a good LED like the Surefire g2led or something similar and you should be good to go.


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## Juggernaut (Dec 2, 2008)

divine said:


> The lights we deal with on here are somewhat off the board compared to what useful light is. :devil:


 
That’s not true, I use the 700+ lumens of light coming out of my EDC-P7 for all sort of things, I can easily see what I’m doing:duck:, and then I turn the light off……after I wait to get my vision back 5 minuets later I can go about my way.!


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## jusval (Dec 2, 2008)

Juggernaut said:


> Exactly 4005.76 lumens out front of the *MAXABLASTER*. They will never see again:devil:. But seriously unless your toting around something like this^ you really can’t depend on a light for self defense, it’s really a last resort thing, there are many threads on it here if your willing to look them up, that deal with the subject:candle:.


 
Ok, now I understand, y'all are disturbed, very disturbed..... :thumbsup:

I had to click on that MAXABLASTER link....... That's what I want. Don't blind them, melt their skin off their bones! Maybe I should give up the flashlight thing and go with a flamethrower!! 

I don't think I will ever get that radical, I hope...... I took apart the Brinkman :shakehead ..... first sign of madness is taking things apart, second sign of madness is putting them back together with different parts...... 

Anyhow, it has a 6V, 2.5ah SLA battery with a H3 6V 35W bulb.... I don't think adding an auxilliary 2ah battery is going to do it, since the one now only lasts five minutes. The 35W bulb is eating the power a little too fast I imagine.

I can forsee that I will be looking at the chinese versions of the 500 lumen lights on fleaBay (even though they are probably only 400 lumens)...... They are "affordable" kinda sorta (as low as $26 now) and from what I read, they can work ok, even if you need to do a little "Q.C." modification after you get one.

I will still be loking for something in a 2,3,4 AA or AAA style for a small holster carry.


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## Hooked on Fenix (Dec 2, 2008)

In that price range, how about a 2D or 3D l.e.d. Maglite? They're on sale at Lowes (as well as their website) for $15. The 2AA and 3AA l.e.d. Maglites are on sale for $11. You can get both. The D sized Mag will run all night and gives good throw. The AA versions are better for flood and will make a decent backup. 

If you're serious about your job, look into Fenix, Olight, Inova, and Surefire lights. I think Fenix will give you the best bang for your buck, but that's just my opinion. A Fenix E20 is 109 lumens, costs $35, and takes 2AAs. A Fenix L1T or L2T versions 2.0 are also decent options if you want a high and low (high for occassional bumps in the night, low for the rest of the time). Costco has a combo kit with a Leatherman Blast and a rebranded Fenix L1T version 2.0 (called an LGX 200) for $50. The L1T is 98 lumens on high and takes 1AA. A 2C Taskforce light with Cree XR-E is a bright, cheap option from Lowes and costs $25-$30. Make sure the packaging says that it's 60X brighter, or you'll be buying the older, dimmer model. Mejers sells a bright, 3D Rayovac light with a Cree XR-E l.e.d. for about $25.


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## BurkStar (Dec 2, 2008)

I'm in the same boat as you, Security Guard dealing with both inside and outside situations, but have gone into debt tyring to find the best lighting set-up. Look at it this way, armed guards will spend good money on their firearms and accessories and since we're not armed, I feel the same way about our lights. I carry at least three lights on me, none of which are cheap, but there are good cheaper alternatives. My smallest light is an Aleph Mule. This light doesn't have a lot of throw but will just about totally light up a small to medium size room. It runs most effectively on CR123's, but will run for a long time with the type usage I put it through. You can pick up a bare aluminum one for about $150 (I paid $175 for my nickel coated one). Additionally these are a great shirt pocket light. The next larger light I carry is a Mr. Bulk Chameleon. I like the side switch with 5 easily accessed levels. I've got mine set up for AW 18500's. The Chameleons are somewhat pricey, but you can pick up a bare aluminum Lionheart (just as good as a Chameleon) for about $150. Another alternative is an O-Light Warrior. Its good 3 usable levels (up to over 200 lumens) and has a very nice long range high beam. Plus the holster and battery sleeves make it real easy to carry. These go for about $120. The only reason I sold mine is it was redundant with my Chameleon. Then finally I carry a heavy duty, burn their retina's out and beat them over the head till they're dead light. I started out with a Mag conversion with a nasty strike bezel and 3 led's putting out about 400 lumens, using Ni-MH batteries. It was a pretty good light and was affordable (about $160) but I wanted more lumens. I now carry an Elektro Lumens Proto P7 Long Throw. This light is everything I wanted in an aggressive mega lumen light and definitely makes me feel a "bit" more comfortable knowing that I can light someone up from a pretty good distance away and if forced into defending myself with it (strictly as a last resort) have a heavy chunk of aluminum as a defensive "tool." Once again there are much cheaper alternatives with a still wide variety of choices. In your situation, I'd probably go with a Mag conversion with an aggressive strike bezel. Hope this helps...


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## DCP117 (Dec 2, 2008)

I'm an armed Security Guard now but I used to be unarmed. I bought the Surefire 9P. Here's something comprable to the 9P. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11919

It runs off 3 primaries and you can use rechargeables. It is an LED so it does last for a good 2 hours or more if it's constantly on (which I doubt it will be). I put an R2 drop-in, in my 9P and its great! You'll be able to light someone up at 100 ft. easily, and if they're close, they'll be seeing spots for awhile. And for under $20, you can't go wrong.


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## jusval (Dec 2, 2008)

OK, lots of information here on this thread, lots of choices as well. I have decided at least on the max price I can go for now and that would be $50 shipping included. $50 Total dollars..... Of course I would like to go less, but as we all already know, you get what you pay for. I'm not expecting a premium lifetime warranty flashlight. I am not expecting a name brand flashlight. I just want the most lumens for the bucks..... From seeing countless reviews and countless more photos, I just want the brightest light for the bucks....

That said, I have done some looking. Most of it on fleaBay. I'm not saying fleaBay is the answer, it's just easy to see a whole bunch of flashlights in one place. I am sure I will research more and more (I kind of beat things to death before buying) and I will look for the best price overall. So here are some links if you would like to comment on them as to how good/bad they seem or how outrageous the claims are and if you have owned any of these yourselves.... Please feel free to comment and Thank You.

Fenix P1D CE Q5 $50 bucks free shipping
http://cgi.ebay.com/Fenix-P1D-CE-Q5...286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:4|65:15|39:1|240:1318


600 lumens? Not........
http://cgi.ebay.com/Solarforce-600L...286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:4|65:16|39:1|240:1318

The Ultrafire 500 down to $42 & free shipping
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ultrafire-500-L...286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:4|65:16|39:1|240:1318

Small Sun- 3x AA flashlight bright beam $20 + free shipping From the pictures, it's a very bright light, for personal holster carry...
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15741

One of my concerns is using Lithium batteries. I don't like them. I had a laptop do a meltdown once and it wasn't pretty.... I think that limits me a lot, unless it's possible to use a different replacement battery pack. I think at least one of the "500 lumen" lights can use something else? But I'm not sure about that.

Anyhow, if you feel like posting your thoughts, thanks in advance.....


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## Bruce B (Dec 2, 2008)

Have you thought about a Surefire G2 incandescent? You can upgrade the bulb which is nice with other Surefire Lamp Assemblies such as the P61 or the P60L. The incandescent G2 is 39.00 on the Surefire.com. http://www.surefire.com/maxexp/main...br=6&prrfnbr=878&sesent=0,0&search_id=1157749

It's a great little light, very versitile and very tough. I've played with this light before and it really is a sturdy light and Surefire have a pretty good warrenty on their illumination tools. Also, I've never had any problems with the Surefire brand CR123 batteries. I hope this makes deciding a little easier for you.


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## Juggernaut (Dec 2, 2008)

jusval said:


> Fenix P1D CE Q5 $50 bucks free shipping


 
You really can’t go wrong with the Fenix though. 





> 600 lumens? Not........


More like 375-400 lumens max.





> The Ultrafire 500 down to $42 & free shipping


 
Again these kind of lights are a hit or miss, if may work fine or crap out on you and like you said if you don’t rust Li-ion batteries you would definitely not want to use there cheapy chargers. 



> Small Sun- 3x AA flashlight bright beam $20 + free shipping From the pictures, it's a very bright light, for personal holster carry...


 
That looks ok but it may not have a good driver and could just use a resister since it’s a 3x AA. But I don’t know


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## jusval (Dec 2, 2008)

Oh, and just for a reference for what I am looking for, I Do have a Maglite 2D with the LED conversion. 

I think it stinks. A very narrow center beam which is blue, not bright at all and a very wide outer band of light that is usless because it's so dim. I had bought the Maglight and conversion when I first started with the guard job and put it back away after the first night. That's when I bought the Brinkman which is Awsome and that's the kind of bright white light I'm looking for, a bright white with a wider center beam, not concentrated like a spot, but broader like a flood. 

FYI


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## Lightguy27 (Dec 2, 2008)

Might want to take a look at this. Can use one CR123 primary or 2 aa's. Got great reviews and looks to be bright with a nice spot and spill.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.9070


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## Burgess (Dec 2, 2008)

You mean, they don't even issue you a *Radio* ? ? ?


:help:



Just outta' curiousity, what kinda' problems 
have they encountered in the past ?


Stay safe, my friend.
_


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## copperfox (Dec 2, 2008)

Jusval, after reading your requirements, I think your best option is the Ultrafire 500. I can find no other flashlight for that price that comes with a rechargeable solution and puts out that much light. If I didn't have a ROP, I'd buy one myself. The 500 is in a totally different class from the "small sun" 3xAA light you are looking at. The Ultrafire will be about 5x as bright and throw considerably farther. That "small sun" light will be about as bright as your Maglite with LED dropin. 

Some people are recommending Surefires, and although they are quality lights, they use non-rechargeable CR123s which will get expensive quick. You simply need a rechargeable solution.


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## jusval (Dec 3, 2008)

Burgess said:


> You mean, they don't even issue you a *Radio* ? ? ?
> 
> 
> :help:
> ...


 
No we don't use radios. There are two guards, they are at two different ends of the place. If we both are in the shacks, we could call each other, but nothing while making rounds.

Mostly drunks wandering in or teens to 20'ish looking for "money" or whatever excuse to try to pull one over on someone. We have not had physical violence and we may not (911 has been called more than once, but intruders usually leave before police arrive), but you know it only takes 1 time to make it a serious problem. I imagine it would take that for the management to do something....


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## [email protected] (Dec 3, 2008)

jusval said:


> Yes, I read a thread about "False sense of Security" with a flashlight. I believe you are right. I think that's what I'm looking for, because I don't want to ever use Mace or a Baton. I don't like fighting (self defense).



*150~200Lm* may be sufficient for you to cause an aggressor to 'see spots' depending on ambient lighting and their physical state (and relative pupil dilation), however to echo what has already been stated DON'T RELY on this to stop the confrontation in it's tracks (it wont)... capitalize on this brief tactical advantage to deliver your counter offensive :thumbsup: 






jusval said:


> Anyhow I will be looking for a good flashlight for lighting up the dark areas. It can't hurt.... I'm really grateful for all the options you all are giving me. It helps to hear from people using this stuff and what you all have to say..... I probably will carry mace, but I have to check with the owners first. I think they look at it as "run away, just run away and call 911" Unfortunately I don't run, I walk slow....



If your employer/client doesn't approve mace you should checkout DyeWitness a non-toxic green foaming dye spray that will render an attacker vulnerable to your counter attack OR buy you sufficient time to 'leg it' (it also marks them with a dye that won't wear off for days assisting identification purposes) 





jusval said:


> The more I think about the battery pack add-on for the Brinkman Halogen I have now, the better I like it. I can buy a 12v, 2.3 amp hour Camcorder battery for about $15 and a charger for about $10. I could slide it in a pouch on my side and just use a cord from it to the Brinkman. I would think that it would give sufficient additional time to the light, but I'd better do some checks on a tester, to see what draw is on the Brinkman. It might be a viable option.
> 
> I still want to get something like what many of you have offered as a smaller style which can be holstered. I like that idea. I like the LED idea too. I really am surprised at the power of the LED flashlights. Very interesting..... Unenlightened, Ya that's me!



I agree... if you could modify your current portable spot lamp this would be a cost effective solution, runtime would be improved depending on the chemistry coice of battery (and it's respective behaviour), for patrolling large open areas I've found of all my lights (including 50w [email protected]) nothing delivers like my HID modded spotlights (I prefer the Thor Scout host for size/weight) 





copperfox said:


> Some people are recommending Surefires, and although they are quality lights, they use non-rechargeable CR123s which will get expensive quick. You simply need a rechargeable solution.



Never heard of rechargeable Li-Ion batteries (like AW's protected cells)? these can be had relatively cheaply around $10.00 USD each, with a basic charger not much more the the cost of a couple of cells... this is what allows me to fully utilize my multi-mode Cree SureFire 6P (rather than just admire it's build quality)


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## jusval (Dec 3, 2008)

copperfox said:


> Jusval, after reading your requirements, I think your best option is the Ultrafire 500. I can find no other flashlight for that price that comes with a rechargeable solution and puts out that much light. If I didn't have a ROP, I'd buy one myself. The 500 is in a totally different class from the "small sun" 3xAA light you are looking at. The Ultrafire will be about 5x as bright and throw considerably farther. That "small sun" light will be about as bright as your Maglite with LED dropin.
> 
> Some people are recommending Surefires, and although they are quality lights, they use non-rechargeable CR123s which will get expensive quick. You simply need a rechargeable solution.


 
Ya, I like the idea of the 500 or even one of the SSC P7's like the Trustfire. I think they would work for large areas. I don't think either of them have much longevity though. In the back of my mind I still think about one of the 12v, 18, 24v rechargeables like Makita or several other brands, more industrial, more flood, 35W to 55W bulbs and way too much light...... WAY TOO MANY flashlights to look at and think about..... More than I ever dreamed of!! Gives me a headache.


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## Monocrom (Dec 3, 2008)

jusval said:


> Please feel free to comment and Thank You.
> 
> 
> 600 lumens? Not........
> ...


 
Definitely not.

I have a Solarforce L600. (Same light as in the link, but mine has a black bezel instead). The light is about 250 lumens out the front. Even at the emitter, it's not 600 lumens. While most companies still list emitter lumens, and you have to subtract 1/3 - 1/2 from the advertised lumens to get a more factual number; some of the cheaper lights simply have their lumens numbers hyped up. 

The beam is horribly oval. The sidespill is somewhat decent, but not enough for lighting up the entire inside of a warehouse. Build-quality of the light is also a big negative.


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## yellow (Dec 3, 2008)

*rechargeable for "use"-light*

hmm :thinking: I am sure I posted something similar yesterday, but seems it wasnt sent ...

imho the lights posted till now are else not good in output (You have the Mag), or not good in general machining and parts (anything at half the cost of Fenix/Jetbeam/...), or just too costy even on the short run (CR123 powered)

Good You raised Your budget, now You get something of value that wont let You down within weeks (or even days).

recommendation:
* NO single battery light (except for single 18650), means 2 AAs or 2 CR123s at least
* when You already have good Ni-Mh cells and charger, go for a Fenix L2D / LD20,
* when You not have this equipment, skip the whole Ni-MH thing and get a light running on *18650 Li-Ion *cell(s).
Those are cheaper, put more power into a light of the same package and charger is cheaper also.

Because I want different output levels, I advise to look for a _Jetbeam Jet III_ model with _I.B.S_ interface, 
the _Pro_ is said to be more focused, _ST_ more general beam
cells can be found from member "AW" in here (or his cells from lighthound, or ...) they also offer doublecell-multiformat chargers.
Only use *protected cells*!


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## bigdaddy (Dec 3, 2008)

hee~ the big size LED maglight would be suitable for security guard, reasonably bright and can be use as a club.:lolsign:
Better still go for the Borealis.


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## copperfox (Dec 3, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Never heard of rechargeable Li-Ion batteries (like AW's protected cells)? these can be had relatively cheaply around $10.00 USD each, with a basic charger not much more the the cost of a couple of cells... this is what allows me to fully utilize my multi-mode Cree SureFire 6P (rather than just admire it's build quality)



Of course I have heard of rechargeable CR123s, but buying a surefire plus two RCR123 and a charger don't fit in his $50 budget.


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## jusval (Dec 3, 2008)

*Summary of flashlight suggestions so far*

OK, I picked out the suggestions from all the posts and I have put them down here alphabetically.... 



*Fenix E20*
*Fenix L2D / LD20*
*Inova T1 2008*
*Jetbeam Jet III*
*Maglite 2D or 3D l.e.d. (I Have)*
*MicroFire K3500R*
*MiniMag x3 AA LED*
*MVP TurboForce P7*
*Pelican 8060*
*Pelican PM6 3330 LED*
*Romisen Cree RC-N3*
*Search for Mag11, Mag85*
*Surefire 9P with the R2 drop-in*
*Surefire E2L*
*Surefire G2 incandescent*
*Surefire G2, Brinkmann Maxfire, or Streamlight Scorpion*
*Surefire G3L*
*Surefire HOLA M3/M4 TurboHead*
*Taskforce2C light with Cree XR-E*
*TrustFire TR-B3*
*Ultra stinger*
*Ultrafire C2 w/ 18650*
*Ultrafire wf-500 w/AW 18650's*
*------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------*

I have done much looking and reading and viewing photos and videos. I think I know something of what I want now (at the moment, as opposed to next week ). For my main light, I want a wide path blaster that will light up as much as can be in front of and to the sides of me. At Least 300 Lumens, but more is Better!! As I walk the warehouse, I want to look down the main aisles and see as far as I can and to the sides of the aisles. I'm talking aisles 50ft across and 400-1,000ft long (it's a big warehouse). I want to see as far ahead as possible with a bright white light.... For my secondary light (a clip or sheath light), I want a little narrower beam that concentrates a bright white light in a smaller area, more for close-ups, not for large areas. At least 150 Lumens, but again, More is Better!!

Ok, so I think I need an Incan for my main light and one that floods more than throws. Then for the second light I think an L.E.D. might work or an Incan, either way. I like the idea of having both lights use the same batteries, so it will probably have to be Lithium for that. It looks like a lot of all size lights use 18650's, so that's probably the best direction... OR, just use the primary like the Coleman Spotlight or any of that style with the sealed battery and then the secondary light could be any type of battery, like AA or AAA or 123A.......

Still way too many choices and if I want 2 flashlights I will have to exceed the $50 mark, so I will have to stagger the purchases out. For now I would go for the Primary light and the secondary later.....

Here's my short list of a few that I might consider in my price range, but I am still, still, still????!!!! Researching!



*Aurora AK-P7-5 HA-III SSC P7-C 2-Mode 900 [email protected] 50 minutes - 1 x 18650 battery*

*Ultrafire wf-500 500 Lumen - two 18650 / 18500 batteries*

*X2000 Flood-to-Throw Zooming Glass Optics Cree P4-WC - Uses 1x 18650 battery*

*SmallSun ZY-C62 Cree Q3-WC [email protected] 1-1.5 hours - Uses 2 x AA*


I like the looks of the beam on the Aurora and I like the thought of the Aurora & the X2000, since they both use 1 18650. I know that the Aurora can't be near 900 Lumens and it would be nice for manufacturers to be truthful.... Probably the Chinese to English conversion 

I am looking at some of the "Lantern" style, like the Coleman also.....

Vector Sport Spot Twin Beam 3,000,000 Candle Rechargeable Spotlight
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001ZTJDS/?tag=cpf0b6-20
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=465856

_*I think that I will use this for my main light along with my Brinkman. It holds Two 6V batteries and the reviews on it (Amazon & Sportsman's reviews are overall good). I know it's not a lifetime light, but I take pretty good care of my stuff and It should last a while. With the price of this, I can still get an AA battery pocket flashlight as well......... I think I'm set for now......... Unless........ Someone here has the Vector and has found it to be junk......... Can't be much worse than Brinkman lights........*_


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## TMedina (Dec 3, 2008)

Your LED conversion for the Mag - are you using a "Mag" LED conversion or a Niteize model?

The one 2D cell Mag LED conversion I dropped into a Fulton L-Bend was a bright white output. 

The x3 AAA MiniMag LED I sport now for casual work is also a bright white.

Either way, good luck with your selections.

-Trevor


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## jusval (Dec 3, 2008)

TMedina said:


> Your LED conversion for the Mag - are you using a "Mag" LED conversion or a Niteize model?
> 
> The one 2D cell Mag LED conversion I dropped into a Fulton L-Bend was a bright white output.
> 
> ...


 
It was the Mag conversion. Done when they first came out with them. It's a blue light and it's dim. Just as dim as it was with the regular bulb. I have never had a Mag I liked. They never focus well, always oblong with dark spots and never enough power. Even a 6D is dim and yellow looking (at least to me it is).


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## djblank87 (Dec 3, 2008)

Why not buy a Sam's Club HID for $55.00 off of ebay and call it a day. Plug it in and it recharges and it is bright enough for anything you need. Of course you would still need something small to carry on you're duty belt but if you don't mind carrying a spotlight sized light, you cannot beat the Sams Club HID.


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## LED61 (Dec 3, 2008)

jusval said:


> Ya, I like the idea of the 500 or even one of the SSC P7's like the Trustfire. I think they would work for large areas. I don't think either of them have much longevity though. In the back of my mind I still think about one of the 12v, 18, 24v rechargeables like Makita or several other brands, more industrial, more flood, 35W to 55W bulbs and way too much light...... WAY TOO MANY flashlights to look at and think about..... More than I ever dreamed of!! Gives me a headache.


 
Your notion that the 500 will not last long is off base. My caretaker in a coffee farm with no power uses the one I issued to him every night. Has recharged the two 18650´s every three days for over a year and a half and zero problems. I think the charger and batteries will still go a long way towards the 300-500 cycles area with no problem. If a problem develops with the WF-139 charger I will replace it with a new one from dealextreme.com at $12 shipped. The 18650´s replacement will cost another $14. You hear tons of stories with other lights but I´ll tell you this light has been subject to heavy use with no problem.


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## [email protected] (Dec 3, 2008)

copperfox said:


> Of course I have heard of rechargeable CR123s, but buying a surefire plus two RCR123 and a charger don't fit in his $50 budget.




No I guess they're not... but pretty much any light and a few batteries later you'll be looking at about the same outlay, then there's that nice Surefire build quality to consider! :touche:


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## Snow (Dec 3, 2008)

djblank87 said:


> Why not buy a Sam's Club HID for $55.00 off of ebay and call it a day. Plug it in and it recharges and it is bright enough for anything you need. Of course you would still need something small to carry on you're duty belt but if you don't mind carrying a spotlight sized light, you cannot beat the Sams Club HID.



That's what I was thinking. I have 2 that I got for $25 apiece including shipping. Then a $25 Streamlight 4xAA Propolymer using his NiMH batteries and he is good to go.


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## Monocrom (Dec 4, 2008)

The problem with the Pelican 3330 LED is that it is a poorly designed light. There's no tailcap. The polymer body simple extends to where you'd normally expect to see a tailcap, and then you find the rubber boot on the end. This means that battery changes must be done by unscrewing the head. But the LED lamp has a tendency to stay attached to the end of the body. Sometimes you have to pry it out of the body of the light, so you can change the batteries. Careful not to touch the inside of the reflector.

On my 3330, the body warped just a bit. Likely due to using it in very cold weather. I have to push the cells down into the body, and shake dead cells loose. Battery changes are a bit of a headache.


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## Hooked on Fenix (Dec 4, 2008)

You forgot the Fenix L1T and L2T version 2.0 in your list. Both are under $50 at Lighthound.com, though shipping would make them a little more. If you have a Costco card, the L1T and Leatherman Blast is a good deal for $50. Keep in mind that if you find the L1T's 98 lumens to not be enough, a $13 L2D body will make it a 152 lumen L2T. The P2D, L1D, L1T, L2D, and L2T bodies are interchangeable with each other's heads in case you want to change the battery type or size of the light at a later time. 

By the way, you may want to be careful buying lights on ebay. You don't always get what you ordered. For example, that P1D CE Q5 that you left a link to could be an old 3 watt P1D. The P1D CE Q5s have "Premium Q5" written on their heads. From the two pictures, you can't see that writing. Some people copy and paste the information about a light under the light that they are selling not knowing that there was an upgrade that makes the light better. Some people just don't care. By the way, the real P1D CE Q5 is available from Lighthound.com for $50 so you don't have to take the pointless risk on ebay. Also, you should know that the P1D CE Q5 doesn't have a push button switch. You have to twist the head back and forth to turn it on and change levels, and you can't change the body like the other lights I listed. 

The Fenix E20 would probably be a good choice since it's about the only Fenix light within your budget including shipping. It's above 100 lumens and takes 2AAs for decent runtime, brightness, and remaining cheap to operate. At $35, you could spring for some decent NiMH rechargeable batteries (Eneloops) and maybe a cheap charger.


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## sORe-EyEz (Dec 4, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> The problem with the Pelican 3330 LED is that it is a poorly designed light. There's no tailcap. The polymer body simple extends to where you'd normally expect to see a tailcap, and then you find the rubber boot on the end. This means that battery changes must be done by unscrewing the head. But the LED lamp has a tendency to stay attached to the end of the body. Sometimes you have to pry it out of the body of the light, so you can change the batteries. Careful not to touch the inside of the reflector.
> 
> On my 3330, the body warped just a bit. Likely due to using it in very cold weather. I have to push the cells down into the body, and shake dead cells loose. Battery changes are a bit of a headache.


 
that i didn't know. the Pelican M6 2320 would be a better light in this case, built-wise. just replace the original incand module with a DX-styled LED replacement for a longer runtime. waalaa...  

oh, their LED version, 2330 runtime is far from fantastic by today's standards & the 2390 is rather overpriced. but i have never needed tailcap replacements for mine. :thumbsup:


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## bones_708 (Dec 4, 2008)

There are reasons that Mag lights and Streamlights are far and away the most popular public safety lights out there. While there are a lot of great lights I would start with one of those and then go from there. Cost seems to be a factor and with what noncom work pays I can understand that so here is an idea. Hit as many pawn shops in the area as you can to see if any cops or security sold a magcharger or streamlight sl-20x. You can get a light you know will work for a discount. If you look here you will find some for sale also. The led upgrades are much better now but they will not give you big increases on brightness, the bonus is more in runtime. 

Also not to be picky but the Texas board requires training before any security can carry a baton or pepper spray. Texas penal code requires you to be commissioned to carry a club (baton). Any flashlight over 3-D size (13 1/2") can be considered a club and you can be prosicuted for it's use as an impact weapon. Be careful who you listen to because it's amazing the bad info you can pick up.


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## bigdaddy (Dec 4, 2008)

bones_708 said:


> Also not to be picky but the Texas board requires training before any security can carry a baton or pepper spray. Texas penal code requires you to be commissioned to carry a club (baton). Any flashlight over 3-D size (13 1/2") can be considered a club and you can be prosicuted for it's use as an impact weapon. Be careful who you listen to because it's amazing the bad info you can pick up.


 
That's a very good advise. Be sure u are trained first and use it solely for self defense in life threatening situation only. :wave:


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## bigdaddy (Dec 4, 2008)

Do check out the Pelican 7060 flashlight used by the LAPD. :thumbsup:


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## jusval (Dec 4, 2008)

Snow said:


> That's what I was thinking. I have 2 that I got for $25 apiece including shipping. Then a $25 Streamlight 4xAA Propolymer using his NiMH batteries and he is good to go.


 
I don't know the details of how you got the HID lights for $25 including shipping, but there are none on ebay, at least doing a search for HID or even spotlight produces no spotlights for $25.

The Vector Twin is $21 but shipping added, so it's $30 and would work fine, but if you know where there are $25 HID's I would most surely be interested.


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## jusval (Dec 4, 2008)

bones_708 said:


> *Also not to be picky but the Texas board requires training before any security can carry a baton or pepper spray. Texas penal code requires you to be commissioned to carry a club (baton). Any flashlight over 3-D size (13 1/2") can be considered a club and you can be prosicuted for it's use as an impact weapon. Be careful who you listen to because it's amazing the bad info you can pick up*.


 
I'm glad you told me that. I talked to my boss and that's why they do not allow anyone to use pepper spray or batons here. Also because the company they contract from does not allow it. The policy is "avoidance" or better know as "run away". I told my boss "most of us old farts can't run away". He said "there's always a risk in security - no weapons". 

I understand not carrying anything. I mean non-comissioned security are just "joe citizen" we have no more rights than any citizen. We cannot do any more than "that plumber guy Joe" can, so we shouldn't be carrying anything.


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## jusval (Dec 4, 2008)

Hooked on Fenix said:


> You forgot the Fenix L1T and L2T version 2.0 in your list. Both are under $50 at Lighthound.com, though shipping would make them a little more. If you have a Costco card, the L1T and Leatherman Blast is a good deal for $50. Keep in mind that if you find the L1T's 98 lumens to not be enough, a $13 L2D body will make it a 152 lumen L2T. The P2D, L1D, L1T, L2D, and L2T bodies are interchangeable with each other's heads in case you want to change the battery type or size of the light at a later time.
> 
> By the way, you may want to be careful buying lights on ebay. You don't always get what you ordered. For example, that P1D CE Q5 that you left a link to could be an old 3 watt P1D. The P1D CE Q5s have "Premium Q5" written on their heads. From the two pictures, you can't see that writing. Some people copy and paste the information about a light under the light that they are selling not knowing that there was an upgrade that makes the light better. Some people just don't care. By the way, the real P1D CE Q5 is available from Lighthound.com for $50 so you don't have to take the pointless risk on ebay. Also, you should know that the P1D CE Q5 doesn't have a push button switch. You have to twist the head back and forth to turn it on and change levels, and you can't change the body like the other lights I listed.
> 
> The Fenix E20 would probably be a good choice since it's about the only Fenix light within your budget including shipping. It's above 100 lumens and takes 2AAs for decent runtime, brightness, and remaining cheap to operate. At $35, you could spring for some decent NiMH rechargeable batteries (Eneloops) and maybe a cheap charger.


 
Yes you are Hooked on Fenix----------- 

The E20 has a focus-adjustable head. That's what I liked about the X2000 so I'm wondering what other flashlights (smaller lights, 2-3AA or 3AAA or 123A, etc.) that are "Focus Adjustable" other than the E20, the Maglite and the X200??

Anyone?


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## sORe-EyEz (Dec 4, 2008)

lights from Coast or LED Lenser (same product actually).

http://www.ledlenserusa.com/


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## Monocrom (Dec 4, 2008)

jusval said:


> I'm glad you told me that. I talked to my boss and that's why they do not allow anyone to use pepper spray or batons here. Also because the company they contract from does not allow it. The policy is "avoidance" or better know as "run away". I told my boss "most of us old farts can't run away". He said "there's always a risk in security - no weapons".


 
Gee, an account-manager not giving a $#^% about the safety of his guards. How very *not *surprising. Security account-managers are the scum of the earth. They can't even be bothered to pretend to care about the safety of those who work under them. When some idiot totalled my car, while I was in it, this past April; my account-manager was informed by the security supervisor about the accident. I took the next day off, planning to get checked out by a doctor. Miracle I survived, with no broken bones. Before the next day came, the security supervisor (a decent human being) called me with a message from my account-manager....

The only thing that scumbag wanted to know was if I could work a double on Friday for having taken off Thursday. He no longer stops by the client's site during my shift. He knows I hate him with a passion. He knows better than to stop by while I'm on duty.



> I understand not carrying anything. I mean non-comissioned security are just "joe citizen" we have no more rights than any citizen. We cannot do any more than "that plumber guy Joe" can, so we shouldn't be carrying anything.


 
Don't agree with your account-manager! The only thing he cares about is not getting the company sued because one of the guards he's responsible for dared to defend himself from a dangerous attacker. See, if you get stabbed to death while on the job; that's okay. You pepper-spray a violent intruder to keep from getting killed or serious injured, that's not okay. Now both the client and the company you work for get sued, and your boss looks bad. That's what he cares about.

You're right, we don't have extra rights. But when I'm in my street clothes, I have more options for self-defense items that I can carry. I only have to worry about the law. In uniform, I have to follow company policy that is geared towards the company not getting sued. If that compromises my safety, the company doesn't give a $#^%!

I'm lucky that I work in a place where access is strictly controlled. No one gets in unless they're supposed to be there. I'm not saying you should break company policy and carry pepper-spray or any other self-defense item. I'm just saying that you should be aware of the fact that your company and boss don't give a f**k about you.


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## jusval (Dec 4, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> I'm just saying that you should be aware of the fact that your company and boss don't give a f**k about you.


 
I am 53, I know no one gives a f**k about me. I've lived long enough to learn that. I spent 26 years in manufacturing as a "boss". A different kind of boss, one who cared and one who stepped on the toes of my bosses, to make them care even if they didn't want to. Since the stroke, I don't have that kind of pull any more.

I'm digressing again.... Apologies, it's about what kind of flashlight I'm going to get....
-----------------------------------------------------------------

*Soooooo.....* I have been thinking Hey I've got this Maglite, or Gaglite, or Muglite as y'all call 'em. Can I do something with it to make it worthy? Not as my main light, but as the backup light. I'm Not looking for one of those reflector melting mods, just a simpler one. I was thinking of using AA batteries to make 7.2V and using a Terralux bulb. Isn't that some kind of option? I have been looking at posts till I've gone blind, but aren't there some 3x AA in a D shell things (series) to fit in a 2D Mag?? Like 2D to 6D kind of??

Just another idea and I might as well make use of the flashlight if possible....


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## ampdude (Dec 4, 2008)

I use an A2 a lot of nights. I like it because it has the long running LED's for building checks and the incan for when I need more power. It's hard to beat really. I use a couple of RCR batteries. Carry primaries for backup, never need them though.

I am looking forward to running an IMR setup when my batteries get here, however the 16340's do not really have practical runtime. I'm hoping for some 17500 & 18500's soon.


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## bones_708 (Dec 4, 2008)

I think a better choice may be a 3d mag with a 6v battery stick like the magcharger and streamlight uses.
http://www.batteryjunction.com/empire-streamlight-charger.html
Here is a charger and you can find cheap batteries on ebay. Radio Shack has halogen 5.5v bulbs that when used in this setup are very close to as bright as a magcharger. You can start cheap and pick up parts as you go and always revert back to a regular 3d when needed. If price is a concern I would go this route first and then get a smaller belt or pocket light later.


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## Snow (Dec 4, 2008)

jusval said:


> I don't know the details of how you got the HID lights for $25 including shipping, but there are none on ebay, at least doing a search for HID or even spotlight produces no spotlights for $25.
> 
> The Vector Twin is $21 but shipping added, so it's $30 and would work fine, but if you know where there are $25 HID's I would most surely be interested.



Sam's Club has an auction website. I found them on there and won them for about $15 each or so. I just did a search and didn't see any. You can still find them on the B/S/T section from time to time. I'd sell you mine, but I actually only have one - the other I gave to my dad.

Also, check this out:
http://cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=185859

That could be your primary light.

I just purchased a Streamlight propolymer 4xAA in the marketplace. It is the light I recommended to you earlier. PM me your address and I will have it shipped straight to you.


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## bones_708 (Dec 4, 2008)

Here is a 6aa to 2d adapter
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_56_73&products_id=778
unless you need 7.2v I think you will send a little less and have a easier time with the 3d. Start simple and then go more complex.


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## jusval (Dec 4, 2008)

bones_708 said:


> Here is a 6aa to 2d adapter
> http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_56_73&products_id=778
> unless you need 7.2v I think you will send a little less and have a easier time with the 3d. Start simple and then go more complex.


 

I'm one of "those guys" always wanting to build stuff, but wanting to take stuff apart even more than building it. I really want to play with the maglite, but keep the costs down. Here's what I'm thinking.....

I found the thread from mdocod about making the battery holders and I've seen the ones you link to as well. I can build one of those myself. I have enough DC knowledge to know how to do series or parallel or even series/parallel with both the voltage jump and amperage jump. I plan to make one sereis/parallel with 7.2V / 15,600mah using Tenergy AA cells. I will use a halogen or zenon bulb to start (cheap), but I will want to use a TerraLUX TLE-6EX MiniStar5 SSC P4 U bin LED or the Malkoff Drop in Module for the 6D, in the long run, later on.

Maybe I should put that in a new thread when I do the mods? Anyhow, that's something to keep me busy for the winter. (there's winter in TX?)...... 

I'm still going to purchase a primary use flashlight soon and then I will play with the build. I think I have all the stuff to build one out of plastic right now. I worked in plastics for 26+ years, so I feel comfortable building one out of plastic...


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## jusval (Dec 4, 2008)

Somehow I posted twice with one click of the submit button. Hmmmmmmmmmm


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## TMedina (Dec 4, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> The problem with the Pelican 3330 LED is that it is a poorly designed light. There's no tailcap. The polymer body simple extends to where you'd normally expect to see a tailcap, and then you find the rubber boot on the end. This means that battery changes must be done by unscrewing the head. But the LED lamp has a tendency to stay attached to the end of the body. Sometimes you have to pry it out of the body of the light, so you can change the batteries. Careful not to touch the inside of the reflector.
> 
> On my 3330, the body warped just a bit. Likely due to using it in very cold weather. I have to push the cells down into the body, and shake dead cells loose. Battery changes are a bit of a headache.



I agree - it's a terrible design, but the price is reasonable and the output is respectable. For me, it falls into the "working, non-tactical" category, along with the MiniMag LED.

I'm not knocking the OP by any means, but by now you have to realize that by and large, your initial budget estimates are going to be stretched just a tad.

Have you considered writing your flashlight purchase off as a work deduction? Disclaimer: I'm not an accountant, but it's worth a thought.

-Trevor


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## djblank87 (Dec 4, 2008)

There are plenty Smas Club HID's on ebay that I mentioned previously, run a search for Power on Board HID


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## [email protected] (Dec 4, 2008)

TMedina said:


> Have you considered writing your flashlight purchase off as a work deduction? Disclaimer: I'm not an accountant, but it's worth a thought.



All my flashlight purchases, upgrades & batteries are claimed against my taxable income (just like all other work related expenses)... I don't see it being any different there in the US :thumbsup:


I mean it's not like you're not ACTUALLY using it in the performance of your occupation is it?


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## Hooked on Fenix (Dec 4, 2008)

One way to get a small, cheap, and bright light (which I used to use) is to get a Princeton Tec 40 flashlight and replace the bulb with a 4D Maglite Xenon bulb (50% brighter than the Krypton bulb). Run it on decent NiMH batteries. Current draw is about 1 amp for four AA batteries. Good rechargeables can get you 2-2.5 hours of runtime. The beam pattern is much more useful than that of a Mag. This is a way to get a small, bright, cheap light with no modding required. The flashlight itself is under $20.


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## jusval (Dec 8, 2008)

I took a few shots at the warehouse to show what I am looking for. Hopefully it will help, maybe not... The light used is my Brinkman Spotlight. The one that goes dead in 5 minutes. I have had it about 2 years and I will buy another one. Not a Brinkman, but a Vector Twin Beam spotlight. I think it works for my long range primary light. I just want to have a wider flood for closer up.


Daytime shot of a building across the street 150 yards away.







Nighttime shot of the same building. Lit up good, works for me.






Daytime shot from 100 feet away






Nighttime shot from 100 feet away. OK, but I would like more flood.






Asile in the warehouse, OK, but again I would like more flood.






Shot at about 30 feet, definitely would like more flood.






All the shots look dark, but that's just my picture taking. The Brinkman is really bright and has worked fo me, up untill the battery started getting weak and not holding a charge.

I would like to have the Maglite set up to be used for a larger flood of light, especially close up (under 50'). I have another thread for the mod of the Maglite https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/214996
and I am reading more in the forums and online, to figure out what to do. There's really almost too many options and possibilities for a new person. It's overwhelming and it's frustrating when there's 30 or 40 recommendations instead of one or two. A newbie can't make educated decisions and I'm the kind that has to be very sure before I will make the plunge....

*Thanks to all of you for your patience with me....*


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## sORe-EyEz (Dec 8, 2008)

any chance there's a B&M store nearby with sample lights for testing? :shrug:


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## ampdude (Dec 8, 2008)

I don't know those beamshots look pretty good to me!

Try an EO-9 on a couple of 18500's.


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## Cydonia (Dec 8, 2008)

Those beam shots look good to me too. Having young eyes would be the best upgrade you could get - then the 2D MagLED would be just fine like it is 

The Maglite options are too numerous I agree. Kinda confuses me too and I've been around here a while. Hard to say...


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## [email protected] (Dec 9, 2008)

Hmmm... I'm curious which Brinkmann model it is? how about getting a new 12v SLA for it (sounds like yours is dying)? :thinking:


is it this ugly mutha?


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## jusval (Dec 9, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Hmmm... I'm curious which Brinkmann model it is? how about getting a new SLA for it? :thinking:


 
Don't know which model. LED/Halogen is all it says on the body. It's not a Q beam, it's a cheaper model. Lowest of the line, but it's not in production any more even though Wal-Mart still has them on the shelf.

I took it apart and tried to match up a battery for it, but it's a made for Brinkman and the size is oddball. That's normal for Brinkman I believe.

I just bought a Victor Twin Beam Sport Spot. It's got two halogens and two batteries, so I figure to use just one side till it goes bad and then use the other side. For $22 + shipping, it might just last for 2-3 years...

I'm still going to Mod the Mag 2D, but I'm torn between doing Incan or LED. There's pro's and cons to both. Still hashing it out. Incan is cheaper all the way round, but I've never had a LED and I would like to. 

Since I'm making the battery pack it will be 7.2v or 9.6v, so there's lots of Incan bulbs to work with. I really have thought about a SSC P7 D-bin emitter, but I'm not sure which Buck puck I would need to use with it. Still trying to figure that one out. I want to build one flashlight myself and see what it's like. 

Decisions, Decisions..........


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## [email protected] (Dec 9, 2008)

jusval said:


> I'm still going to Mod the Mag 2D, but I'm torn between doing Incan or LED. There's pro's and cons to both. Still hashing it out. Incan is cheaper all the way round, but I've never had a LED and I would like to.
> 
> Since I'm making the battery pack it will be 7.2v or 9.6v, so there's lots of Incan bulbs to work with. I really have thought about a SSC P7 D-bin emitter, but I'm not sure which Buck puck I would need to use with it. Still trying to figure that one out. I want to build one flashlight myself and see what it's like.
> 
> Decisions, Decisions..........



Pity you don't already have a 3D Maglite host you could easily power it (directly NO driver requirted) off 3 NiMh D cells (OR Alkalines like I currently am) :thumbsup:

BTW nice choice of replacement spotty... make an excellent HID host y'know


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## jusval (Dec 9, 2008)

jusval said:


> I took a few shots at the warehouse to show what I am looking for. Hopefully it will help, maybe not... The light used is my Brinkman Spotlight. The one that goes dead in 5 minutes. I have had it about 2 years and I will buy another one. Not a Brinkman, but a Vector Twin Beam spotlight. I think it works for my long range primary light. I just want to have a wider flood for closer up.





jusval said:


> Daytime shot of a building across the street 150 yards away.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


Ok, from the poor shots here with the distances, is it possible to "guess" about what would be comparable? As in a SSC P7 or what Incan bulb might be comparable (in lumens) in a flashlight. 

See I still have a problem with the whole lumen thing because it seems with so many variables, (reflector style, lens style, coatings, etc.) that just talking lumens isn't the answer, but still so many just use lumens.

For instance, the SSC P7 D-bin rated to 900 lumens max? Well that should be bright, but is it going to give me more flood or not. I mean I loose the adjustability of the 2D as far as focus, so what do I end up with? LED emitters are directional right, so some throw and some flood? If I did use an Incan with 900 lumens, I probably wouldn't want to hold the light for long right? Due to the heat..... 

So how do these spotlights (made strictly of very cheap plastic, with no heatsinks) get so DARN Bright withought melting the housing and reflector?? I just don't understand....... The more I read, the more lost I get......


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## jusval (Dec 10, 2008)

Ok, here's my thought for the 2D using a SSC P7 D-bin.

I have found the emitter in many places, but I did find one place where the emitter and a heatsink are sold together from here.
http://www.britelumens.com/emitters_and_parts

It's sold together or seperate and also has the Sekonix lens/filter, which I find interesting. If any of you have used it(Sekonix), I would be interested to know how it works. I'm looking for flood more than throw....

Also there's another heatsink that is much less expensive and looks more like what I'm used to, at Cutter here.
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut765
It should be just about a perfect diameter for the 2D.

Now, the buck-driver would come from Der Witchel. 
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201981
I think it's a step above the rest and it allows for me using my 8AAA 9.6V battery pack, that I'm making.

Then, of course an aluminum reflector. Again, from many sources.
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1739

The lens from Flashlightlens.com
http://www.flashlightlens.com/
I would think the UCL lens would be right.

I think that's about it. It's more money than I had wanted, but....... It will just have to be a winter project over several months.....

Thoughts on how this will work please?

I have been searching and find some things on it, but not enough to tell me it's the right way for sure. My understanding is that the P7 is more of a flood than a thrower, so maybe I don't even need the Sekonix at all. Maybe just the reflector and lens is fine and dandy.....

I made sure the buck-converter will work for my 9.6v and the P7, so I just need to decide on the heatsink. I know the $40 one is nice, but I think that the one from Cutter (finned) should do as well. Fins work. I've used enough of them in the PC business.
 
So, fire away with thoughts, if you want...

*I'm also going to see if I can get all this stuff from CPF members, instead of buying from overseas. I would rather keep the money here, so if you members have this stuff for sale I would want to talk to you about it. Just PM me. As I say, I can't buy it all at one time at these prices, but a little at a time works..........*
** 
*Thanks.............*


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## yellow (Dec 10, 2008)

I see the pics and know: led --> no chance
thats simply too far


possibly a multiemitter / P7 / MC-E at that 100 feet distance (thats about 30 meters, right?)

+ a good, small single emitter for the short distances (because of size and runtime)




PS, this is getting a long post again ... 
as for the parts chosen for building You own lights: forget these. 
1st of all: when starting to mod, get the  P7 mounted on a Star, dont try to mount a bare led with Your first tries.
Plus: I see one single item that immediately shows me You unfortunately got an old and crappy guide (one that was crappy even when it was new): that HEATSINK
... shitty, not because it would not work - works good - but with using it, You get more additional problems than it solves
(... so much for this. Long story when You start the threads with actual problems while modding). 

*My advise is*:
get something like a cheap multiemitter light, or a cheap quad die led (P7) light, or a cheap quad die led (MC-E) light... 
I would advise the multiemitter, not because it might be considerably better, but that reflector with the Quad-dies  I know I wont like them (too wide, not deep enough).
Any of them is best option now (for starting modding with them)
All have been chosen because of the 2 18650 batteries (when You are lucky this is correct) but You might find something better suiting to _Your_ ideas

As soon as You dont like something on it, something fails, or You simply want to use a better driver, 
You can disassemble each of these things very easily, learning how a led light should be built in general:
front glass, focusing device, led mounted on sink plate, sink plate press fitted into housing, driver, batteries.

Sure the parts are not the best, but they are quite ok, especially for the price. You can change everything with much better ones, but keep the housing and the heatsinking plate that puts the heat away from the led to the housing - which acts as heatsink
(thats why a "real" sink is useless, it is just unnecessary wheight not housed at the outside to give the heat to the air)

Whatever You do inside the light (better led, better driver, better focusing), when reassembled, nothing will look homemade
... the light from the guide that uses the sink does look homemade, correct?
(as a plus, one saves much running to get additional parts like glass, O-rings, ..., which all come in a package when purchasing a "ready made" light, which is - at the same time - cheaper and much less building effort)

PS: there is also a chance You immediately like that light and dont have to mod anything



PPS: Sorry, have not noticed one here:


jusval said:


> Ok, here's my thought for the 2D using a SSC P7 D-bin.


another advise: there are sinks available that perfectly fit a Mag and screw into the inside threads.
Much easier than modding that sink You found.
They will be more expensive but with shipping added, it will be equal --> again much work saved and much better fit and thermal path to housing

I have not followed that driver thread (and the 1st post gives not too much info)...
... when the P7 is driven at spec (2.8 A), the draw with an 8-cell pack should be around 1 A.
Dunno if the AAAs can give that. If they can, runtime will be about 40 mins 
(2 18650: 1.75 hours with same sized but lighter and better gripable light)

PS: You can try the original reflector 1st. If it melts, then get another


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## jusval (Dec 10, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Hmmm... I'm curious which Brinkmann model it is? how about getting a new 12v SLA for it (sounds like yours is dying)? :thinking:
> 
> 
> is it this ugly mutha?


 
That's the one and it's 6v and tiny, with no space for larger.


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## jusval (Dec 10, 2008)

yellow said:


> I see the pics and know: led --> no chance
> thats simply too far


 
Sorry for my not being clear. I have purchased a new 6v halogen spotlight. That is what I will use at work. I'm not looking for a thrower. I am just wanting to mod the 2D. Why? Because you guys have affected me... I really want to make one for myself. Not just a bulb change, not just a couple of batteries, but do a Mod that is from the shell up...

Why? To occupy my time that's all..........




yellow said:


> PS, this is getting a long post again ...
> as for the parts chosen for building You own lights: forget these.
> 1st of all: when starting to mod, get the P7 mounted on a Star, dont try to mount a bare led with Your first tries.


(OK, I thought I might try it. I've never done LED, but I've done a lot with different components and have attached heat sinks to many things.)



yellow said:


> Plus: I see one single item that immediately shows me You unfortunately got an old and crappy guide (one that was crappy even when it was new): that HEATSINK
> ... shitty, not because it would not work - works good - but with using it, You get more additional problems than it solves
> (... so much for this. Long story when You start the threads with actual problems while modding).


(I will look for threads with problems in them).



yellow said:


> PPS: Sorry, have not noticed one here:another advise: there are sinks available that perfectly fit a Mag and screw into the inside threads.
> Much easier than modding that sink You found.


(I haven't found any yet, but I can keep searching).



yellow said:


> (2 18650: 1.75 hours with same sized but lighter and better gripable light)


(I really don't want to mess with Lithium. I Know everyone else loves them, but I just personally don't want to. Plus I've got about 48 AA Nimh laying around and chargers out the wazoo....)

I'm not trying to be difficult, it just comes natural to me :devil: and I really do appreciate the comments very much. I probably listen to too much and it causes me to ask too many questions.....

I don't want to say _" I want a P7 Mag 2D and I want y'all to tell me what exactly I need to buy"_ First because I want to investigate and read, but also because I can see that I will probably get 20 different answers on how to do that P7. That does NOT mean I'm saying there's too many answers, it's just like the rest of life, everyone has a different idea, a different way and I don't know enough yet, to know which ones are the best, that's all... So I read the threads and think about the stuff that people seem to say works, like the P7 and that huge honking heatsink, which I would have never thought was any good at all. If I had to do one without any help, I would use a heat sink that went directly to/through the body of the light and would put holes thru the lbody to let cooling in. That's why I am looking at what y'all do, to find out the right way...


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## yellow (Dec 11, 2008)

it's perfectly ok to mod the Mag ... most anyone of us started by doing so.
That light is the best base to start modding, because:
* You have it
* it looks good
* is good quality
* not expensive
* features much space inside wich eases starting
* has much aftermarket parts to choose from

also my bad that I did not get that You want to use AAs.
In that case (with a P7 driven at spec of 2.8 A) runtime will be around 2.5 hours

what the Mag-mod should look like:
front glass - focusing device - led - mounting/thermal plate (=sink) - driver - springs - batteries

still, the choices on individual led, driver, focusing device (reflector/optic) are still countless and the finished mod will be truly individual 

some ideas of aftermarket parts, f.e. here: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php?cPath=48_56_73
the sinks featured fit very tightly - good for getting heat to the light body - but unfortunately there is no sink for a single emitter. You will need something that has no hole in the middle (there are some pics at "homemade and modded" dealing with P7, where pics of useful sinks are).
If You think You can build Your own one, no problem.

When the sink is *anodized*, no problem any more with shortings, then using a bare led is also ok. 
Placing one mounted on a Star is just easier and better to mod in the future --> when using screws to fix it


Short lines to the heatsink I did critic: it has fins at the back side, to enlarge surface and thus ease to put the heat to the surrounding air. But _inside_ the light, there is no flowing air, so the fins are totally useless. A thick, flat sheet of aluminium in direct contact to the body is much better. Therefore --> no such sink 


PS: have You tried if a quad AA pack fits into the diameter of the Mag? Newer ones are slightly too small


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## [email protected] (Dec 11, 2008)

jusval said:


> For instance, the SSC P7 D-bin rated to 900 lumens max? Well that should be bright, but is it going to give me more flood or not. I mean I loose the adjustability of the 2D as far as focus, so what do I end up with? LED emitters are directional right, so some throw and some flood? If I did use an Incan with 900 lumens, I probably wouldn't want to hold the light for long right? Due to the heat.....




I gotta' be straight up with ya' mate... the D binned P7 [email protected] I just built seems to pretty much equal my 50w [email protected] hotwire in throw, spill,& overall performance just not as warm (pretty white by comparison), the quad emitter's focus isn't as 'tight' as the original Maglite's either (using the modified original reflector) but more than sufficient if you use H22A's pedestal type heatsink (or similar) :thumbsup:

Yes the heat will dissipate throughout the [email protected] host body but you won't be burning your hands that's for sure... I'd also recommend using a smear of thermal paste in the threads of the head-to-body section to assist the thermal flow  




yellow said:


> You can try the original reflector 1st. If it melts, then get another





yellow said:


> 1st of all: when starting to mod, get the P7 mounted on a Star, dont try to mount a bare led with Your first tries.



I would've thought that using a star emitter base effects the focus ability of the cut down Maglite 's reflector doesn't it? Additionally the P7s don't create the kind of heat Hotwires do... the cutdown original reflector will be fine (at least in my experience)! 

FWIW You can skip the whole driver approach if you direct feed the P7 at around 3.7v (depending on the particular forward voltage specifications of the chosen emitter) much easier IMHO 

H22A has been selling P7 dedicated [email protected] sinks (both anodized & bare aluminium) in CPFs Mod & Custom B/S/T section for some time, his sales thread can be found HERE 

There's plenty of D binned P7 (3.5~3.75v) emitters for sale in CPF's Marketplace too for around $30.00 USD (shipped within the CONUS), however the best results seem to be had with a Vf of 3.2~3.5v (*I* prefix), those can be sourced from Amilite.co.kr @ $35.00 USD (shipped EMS to your door) 



yellow said:


> Sorry, have not noticed one here:another advise: there are sinks available that perfectly fit a Mag and screw into the inside threads.
> Much easier than modding that sink You found.



FWIW the aftermarket P7 [email protected] heatsinks don't 'screw in' they're an 'interference fit' :thumbsup:


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## jusval (Dec 11, 2008)

Speaking of Li-Ion batteries......... I'm sorry but after reading the warnings about Li-ion I would never use them for any reason.

This link to batteryspace . com is a perfect example. *After really reading all the rules and guidelines*, I might a well keep open containers of gasoline in my garage, next to the smoking area and close all the doors, it would be safer....

*http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=32*

Excerpt:
_*Put battery in the fireproof container and charge in an isolated area, away from other flammable materials. Always have fire extinguisher for emergency use.*_ 


Sorry, but it's way too risky for me. I know it's not for most all of you and that's great, but that's why I use NiMh and if I can't get the right combo, then I won't make the Mod.....

Now back to the discussion.................. Sorry for the interruption.....


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## Jarl (Dec 11, 2008)

Li-ion really isn't that bad. You struggle to make a protected cell explode through normal use. I have no problem recommending protected single cell li-ion using lights to friends... multi cell is bit scarier, but the risks are still practically nil. Personally I'm a lot more worried about being struck by lightning than having a li-ion go off on me. Alternatively, you might want to look into AW's new IMR18650's. These won't explode, no matter what you do to them, and can run at a higher discharge current. The disadvantage is slightly lower capacity than convetional li-ion. Bear in mind batteryspace need to cover their backs.

As for a duty light, I was surprised at the few recommendatios thtis got. Won't have enough ooomph to light up the whole thing, but the two levels are very good, and you can easily get 150+ feet from high, and low is great for just walking round with. Quite a floody beam, too. Coupled with IMR18650's and you'll get 30 to 40 minutes runtime/cell, with no dangers of explosions.

As for modding, personally I'd go for 6 NiMH AA's powering a warm or neutral white cree MC-E running 2s2p, potentially with a resistor if the current proves a bit too high (>1.5A) with applicable heatsink and a textured reflector.


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## jusval (Dec 11, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I gotta' be straight up with ya' mate... the D binned P7 [email protected] I just built seems to pretty much equal my 50w [email protected] hotwire in throw, spill,& overall performance just not as warm (pretty white by comparison), the quad emitter's focus isn't as 'tight' as the original Maglite's either (using the modified original reflector) but more than sufficient if you use H22A's pedestal type heatsink (or similar) :thumbsup:


 
Well since I want a FLOOD, then the quad emitter would be better for what I want. 




[email protected] said:


> Yes the heat will dissipate throughout the [email protected] host body but you won't be burning your hands that's for sure... I'd also recommend using a smear of thermal paste in the threads of the head-to-body section to assist the thermal flow


Yes, the more I read, the more people say that the P7 does not run excessively hot. Still ok to be handheld even after running for a while.




[email protected] said:


> FWIW You can skip the whole driver approach if you direct feed the P7 at around 3.7v (depending on the particular forward voltage specifications of the chosen emitter) much easier IMHO


 
I will be using either 7.2V or 9.6V, so I will be using Der Wicthel's Buck.
Going to make use of all those AA batteries.



[email protected] said:


> H22A has been selling P7 dedicated [email protected] sinks (both anodized & bare aluminium) in CPFs Mod & Custom B/S/T section for some time, his sales thread can be found HERE
> 
> There's plenty of D binned P7 (3.5~3.75v) emitters for sale in CPF's Marketplace too for around $30.00 USD (shipped within the CONUS), however the best results seem to be had with a Vf of 3.2~3.5v (*I* prefix), those can be sourced from Amilite.co.kr @ $35.00 USD (shipped EMS to your door)
> FWIW the aftermarket P7 [email protected] heatsinks don't 'screw in' they're an 'interference fit' :thumbsup:


 
Thanks for the information here....


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## [email protected] (Dec 12, 2008)

jusval said:


> I will be using either 7.2V or 9.6V, so I will be using Der Wicthel's Buck.
> Going to make use of all those AA batteries.



I'd have to agree no sense in wasting AA Nimhs if you've already got them! 

Good luck with your Mod, I look forward to hearing your results :thumbsup:


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## Cydonia (Dec 12, 2008)

Yes, it makes sense to utilize all those AA NiMh cells you already have. Why open up a new can of worms with Li-ion and the required new chargers? 

Don't forget this Maglite heatsink: (not from the USA though..) Multi-Sink

The best 6AA to 2D adapter are the ones by fivemega.
Some people just use one of these and a 6 cell Magnum Star bulb. 
Only puts out about 200 lumens - but you don't need to buy an aluminum reflector or glass lens.


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## [email protected] (Dec 13, 2008)

Cydonia said:


> The best 6AA to 2D adapter are the ones by fivemega.
> Some people just use one of these and a 6 cell Magnum Star bulb.
> Only puts out about 200 lumens - but you don't need to buy an aluminum reflector or glass lens.



Good idea Cydonia, some people also utilize Pelican's lower wattage Big D PR-bulb too in a sort of 'Meow-of-the-Pelican' (as opposed to Roar-of-the-Pelican hence the term/acronym ROP) I believe brightguy.com has a good supply of these, additionally FiveMega makes a PR-base to bi-pin adapter that would allow you to utilize a 5w~10w Halogen lamp (AFAIK 10w is the maximum the reflector/lens can handle before melting down) Kiu also makes a permanent bi-pin modification kit which is available through CPFs Custom & Mod B/S/T forum section (should you wish tyo go that route) :thumbsup:



Cydonia said:


> Don't forget this Maglite heatsink: (not from the USA though..) Multi-Sink



I dunno' about using those 'download' multi application [email protected] for the P7... they're great for multi-emitter applications but notice where the wire feed goes? right through the centre essentially directly underneath where the rear of the emitter base would be, personally I'd rather have some 'meat' (read as significant quantity of aluminium) behind the hottest part of the emitter to assist with the thermal ducting


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## csshih (Dec 13, 2008)

hehe, sorta off topic, but 2 cops just showed up at my house at around 11PM, and I noticed 1 of them was carry a pretty big flashlight.. a 6D mag, it seems?
seems that someone called 911 on a cell, and the cops don't know where, just in the general area.


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## [email protected] (Dec 13, 2008)

You shoulda' given the Forums a free plug... in terms of flashlight resource material!  

A couple of local LEOs have been quite curious regarding the modded lights I've made for one of their acquaintances, namely the HID spotlight... though they may become equally interested in the P7 [email protected] I've also been commissioned to construct, Mag-Chargers are their current light-of-choice :thumbsup:


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