# Thrunite TN12 2014 (XM-L2, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIME, VIDEO+



## selfbuilt

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *











Thrunite has updated their original compact, high-output 1x18650/2xCR123A light – the TN12, first released in 2011 - with a new model for 2014. 

This updated build features a dual-switch interface, and the latest XM-L2 emitter. Based on the specs, it promises to be a real scorcher for this class – let's see how it does compared to the competition under objective testing conditions. 

For additional general comments on how several of the current dual-switch lights in this battery class compare, please see my post #2.

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


LED: Cree XM-L2 U2 
Max Lumen: 1050
Uses one 18650 rechargeable battery or two CR123A batteries. 
Output/Runtime: Turbo 1050lumens / 90 min – Hi 800lumens / 1hr 30min – Med 280lumens / 5hr – Lo 20lumens / 74hr – Firefly 0.3lumens / 1585hr _(Reviewer's note: if you are wondering why the runtime specs on Hi and Turbo are the same, please see my testing later in this review)_
Working voltage: 2.7V-9V
Beam Intensity: 11,866cd
Impact Resistant: 1.5m
Waterproof: IPX-8, 2m
Body specifically designed for better single hand operation and a new emitter (XM-L2 U2) to supply more beam with throw and flood.
Reverse polarity protection design to protect from improper battery installation
Aircraft-grade aluminum body
Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish
Toughened ultra-clear glass lens with anti-reflective coating
Smooth reflector gives perfect beam and throw. 
Dimensions: 143mm (Length)*25.4mm (Diameter) 
Weight: 82g weight (without batteries)
MSRP: ~$46






Packaging is a hard cardboard box with packing foam. Inside, included with the light are spare O-rings, basic wrist lanyard, holster with Velcro closing flap, pocket clip (attached), and manual.













From left to right: AW Protected 18650 2200mAh; Thrunite TN12-2014; Nitecore P12; Fenix PD35; Thrunite TN12 2011; Olight S20 2014; Sunwayman C21C; Foursevens; Zebralight SC600-II; Eagletac D25LC2.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Thrunite TN12-2014*: Weight: 80.0g, Length: 140.5mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm
*Thrunite TN12-2011*: Weight: 64.0g, Length: 126.9mm, Width (bezel): 24.1mm
*Eagletac D25LC2*: Weight: 50.0g, Length: 116.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.5mm
*Eagletac TX25C2*: Weight 93.6g, Length: 120.4mm, Width (bezel): 31.6mm
*Fenix PD35*: Weight: 82.7g, Length: 138.1mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm
*Foursevens MMR-X*: Weight 90.8g, Weight (with 18650): 138.5g, Length: 138.6mm, Width (bezel): 31.5mm
*Foursevens MMX Burst*: Weight 145.8g, Length: 153.3mm, Width (bezel): 38.7mm
*Nitecore P12*: Weight: 89.7g, Length: 139.4mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm
*Olight M20S-X:* Weight: 124.1g, Length: 145.4mm, Width: 35.5mm (head)
*Zebralight SC600 II*: Weight 79.3g, Length: 101.8mm, Width (bezel) 29.7mm

The TN12-2014 is longer than its predecessor model, likely due to the revised electronics and secondary switch in the head. It is still within the same range of other recent dual-switch lights in this class.


















Anodizing is a glossy black finish, hard anodized, with no chips or damage on my sample. Body labels are minimal and subtle against the black background (i.e., sort of a light gray). Knurling is of mild aggressiveness on the body tube and tailcap, and the head is smooth as well. This overall smoothness gives an impression of lower hand feel, when comparing to some other recent lights in this class. But when combined all the other grip elements (e.g., side switch cover, pocket clip, etc.), I would describe overall grip as ok The clip is helpful as an anti-roll feature, as the light rolls fairly easily otherwise.

Tailcap screw threads are now square-cut and anodized for lock-out at either end of the body tube. Although there are a good number of screw threads at the head-end of the battery tube, there are fewer at the tailcap end (although still more than sufficient).

The TN12-2014 uses a forward clicky switch as before, but I find tailstanding has improved (i.e., was pretty wobbly on my original 2011 sample). 

On/off is still controlled by the physical tailcap clicky switch, but all mode switching is now done by the electronic side switch in the head (instead of the old twisty interface). The new mode-changing switch in the head has a bit of "squishy" feel for my tastes (i.e., not as much of a defined click as some others). But it is relatively easy to locate by feel. Please see my User Interface section for a discussion. 

There is a spring on the contact board in the head, so flat-top cells can be used. The reverse polarity protection system must be circuit based, not physical. The body tube is wide enough to accommodate all size 18650 cells, but you may find really long cells under tight pressure with the dual springs.










The overall head is typical for this class. Reflector is smooth, and fairly deep given this size head. Coupled with the XM-L2 cool white emitter (which was well centered on my sample), I would expect a fairly typical beam pattern. Scroll down for beamshots.

The TN12-2014 comes with a flat black aluminum bezel, as before.

*User Interface*

The original TN12 -2011 used a clicky switch for on/off, and head-twists to control output levels. The new TN12 for 2014 uses a dual-switch interface, similar to the Fenix PD35 and Nitecore P12.

As before, turn the light on/off by the forward tailcap switch. Lightly press and hold for momentary, click (press and release) for constant on. Click again to turn off.

To change modes, click the electronic switch in the head, while the light on. Mode sequence is Firefly > Lo > Med > Hi > Turbo, in repeating sequence. The light has mode memory, and returns the last level set after turning the tail switch off/on.

Press and hold the electronic switch to access a tactical Strobe mode. A single click exits you from Strobe back into constant output.

*Video*: 

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

*PWM/Strobe*

Like the earlier TN12, the new TN12-2014 is fully current-controlled. There is no PWM, on any level. I detect some very faint low frequency noise on the Med and Hi modes of my TN12-2014 sample, but this was completely invisible in actual use.

Med/Hi Noise:





Again, consistent with my standard review policy, I report on any oscilloscope signals I can detect in the output of a light. But I can assure you that the above pattern produces no visible effect – even when shining on a fan. The TN12-2014 is fully "flicker-free" at all levels. 

Strobe





The strobe was a fast "tactical" strobe, of 12.8Hz frequency.

There are no additional blinky modes on the TN12-2014.

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences.





























































Beam pattern is what you would expect for a light this size – a wide spillbeam, but with reasonably good throw. Initial max output on turbo is incredibly bright, as indicated by the specs – scroll down for detailed output and throw measures.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).
















The TN12-2014 is indeed driven very hard on Turbo, as demonstrated by the specs. In fact, it tops my charts just slightly above the Zebrealight SC600-II and Fenix PD35. The original TN12-2011 was heavily driven for its class and time as well, but this new TN12-2014 is impressively bright. Note as well that it is even brighter on max on 2x battery sources than 1x18650. :sweat:

Throw is quite reasonable for the class, given the size of the head and reflector.

Let's see how all the levels compare to the official specs, on 1x18650 in my lightbox:






There is a generally good concordance between my estimated lumens and Thrunite published specs.  And as always, you have to consider my estimated lumens as a of source _relative_ measures between lights (i.e., not to be taken as absolute values). 

One thing I am happy to see here is the true "firefly" Lo mode (i.e., I'm a fan of ultra-low output levels, for when you have dark-adapted eyes). Nice to see such a wide range outputs in a general purpose flashlight. 

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*

To start, here is a comparison of four of my highest output recent lights in this class; the Zebralight SC600-II, Fenix PD35, Nitecore P12, and Thrunite TN12-2014:










Given the incredibly high drive level of the TN12-2014, it is not surprising that it has a direct-drive-like pattern on Max. The alternative approach - taken by the other makers shown above - is to have a defined step-down on Turbo/Max. You can see this in the initial timed step-down on the Fenix PD35 and Nitecore P12, and the full thermal-controlled step-down on the Zebralight SC600-II. Either way, it just isn't possible for these small lights to maintain that sort of output (and heat) on a single 18650 in a fully regulated fashion.

The TN12-2014 has a defined Hi mode that is just a bit lower than Turbo. You can see a period of flat regulation before dropping into a direct-drive-like pattern. As a result, runtime is not that different (i.e., the common 90 min ANSI-FL1 spec for time to 10% output seems quite reasonable). Note that the TN12-2014 is fully flat regulated at Med and all lover levels.

Let's see how it does on 1x18650 against a wider range of lights (omitting the comparisons already shown above):














The TN12-2014 is clearly a very efficient model on Max/Hi compared to the competition (as you would expect, given the largely direct-drive pattern). 

Its performance on Med is pretty much unchanged from the original TN12. That puts the TN12-2014 at the lower end of recent current-controlled lights in this category, but still quite reasonable.

Here are a couple of comparisons on 2x battery sources:











I have only done max output runtimes on 2x sources, but you can see that the TN12-2014 runs with far more flat output (thanks to the higher voltage of the two cells). It is also slightly brighter than 1x18650 initially.

 Note that I do NOT recommend you run the TN12-2014 on Max on 2xCR123A/RCR for any sustained period of time. You are likely to trip the PTC protection features of primary CR123A (due to heat build up), and it is not healthy for small capacity protected RCRs to be drained this quickly (i.e., likely exceeds the 3C discharge current for ICR chemistry Li-ion). 

To explain a bit further, here is a comparison runtime using quality made-in-China and made-in-the-USA brand CR123As in the TN12-2014, on Turbo






What you are looking at on the USA brand run is engagement of the PTC circuit approximately 6 mins into the runtime. I started a thread on this behavior (in another light) some time ago, and discussed it further in my last CR123A battery shoot-out review. Basically, the point is that once the battery temperature reaches a certain threshold (which varies according to the battery manufacturer), the PTC resistance rises and current limitation kicks in, causing a rapid drop in output. Over time, the temperature drops and the cells recover, showing an uptick in output. 

Based on my continued battery testing, I have found that the PTCs of made-in-the-USA cells are more likely to trip earlier than made-in-China cells (even quality ones). Keep in mind all my runtimes are done under a cooling fan for safety and consistency reasons – if I had run the China cells without fan cooling, I am confident they would have tripped as well. As a result, in the real world, I suspect all quality CR123A with PTCs will engage eventually on sustained Turbo runs on the TN12-2014.

*Potential Issues*

Consistent with the high drive level and incredibly bright max output, the TN12-2014 shows a direct-drive-like pattern on Max. This is an alternative to having a defined step-down, as some sort of output reduction is required given the high heat produced at these drive levels. The light is partially-regulated in the Hi mode (but with equivalent runtime to Turbo), and is fully regulated at lower levels.

Output is well regulated on Max on 2x battery sources, but I don't recommend you subject CR123A or RCR cells to such excessively high discharge currents - certainly not for any sustained period. You don't want to be pushing cells to the point where their built-in safety circuits have to engage.

The light has a relatively smooth finish for this class (thus reducing grip), and rolls easily in bare form. Grip is acceptable with the pocket clip installed.

*Preliminary Observations*

The new TN12 for 2014 builds on the previous 2011 model, and introduces new features consistent with other lights in this 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR class – like the dual-switch interface. It is also one of the best deals in this class (by MSRP), for the feature set. 

Let's start with the build – despite the relative low cost, quality of construction seems good. The new TN12 is a solid light, with the typical features and range of bundled extras in this class. Finish is a bit smooth compared to some of the competing models out there though, leading to a lower subjective build quality "feel". Still, the ergonomics are good (especially with the pocket clip attached), and you have reasonable access to the tailswitch (while maintaining tailstanding). 

The user interface very intuitive, with the dual physical tailcap switch and side mode-changing electronic switch. The side switch sticks out more than most others, which is good for locating by touch. That said, I find the switch feel itself to be a bit "squishy" (i.e., less of a defined click), compared to some others. 

One thing that distinguishes the TN12-2014 is its range of output modes – it currently has both the lower Min and the highest Max output of any dual-switch light I've tested. oo: It also has good relative spacing of levels in between. Note for those of you who are strobe fans, there is only one hidden "tactical" strobe available (not memorizable). 

The circuit also performed admirably in my testing. Unlike some of the competition, the TN12-2014 is not flat-regulated with step-down at the highest level – instead, there is a more gradual drop-off in output. The point is that every light in this class will have to lower output somehow over time on Turbo – these lights are just too small (and too heavily driven) to handle that sort of heat for extended periods.

Beam pattern is good as well, with a nice balance between throw and spill. Given the fairly standard size head, there are lots of beam shaping accessories out there from a range of makers that will fit on the light. 

It's mind-boggling to me to see small lights like this that can now put out over 1000 lumens (at least initially) on a single 18650. :candle: The original TN12 was a real retina-scorcher for this class when it came out, and the new TN12 picks up the gauntlet for 2014. The TN12-2014 currently tops my charts for initial max output (but the Zebralight SC600-II and PD35 are not far behind).

The TN12-2014 represents very good value in this class of flashlight. I really like the ultra-low Firefly level (very helpful for dark-adapted eyes). Certainly a top contender to consider. :wave:

_P.S.: I know a lot people are wondering how the Fenix PD35, Nitecore P12 and Thrunite TN12-2014 directly compare to each other. In addition to all the objectives measures included in this review, I've added some general comparison comments in post #2._

-----

TN12-2014 provided by Thrunite for review.


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## selfbuilt

I have just posted detailed individual reviews of Fenix PD35, Nitecore P12 and Thrunite TN12-2014. Since the lights are all very similar, the decision most of you have will be which _one_ to get.

To help with that, here are direct comparisons of key features of the lights, to allow you to better choose the one that is right for you. Please see the table/figures in the review for more info.

*Overall Build Quality and "Feel": * The PD35 has most solid build in my estimation, with the most "grippy" overall hand feel and the best built-in anti-roll feature. The P12 is a close second on most of these measures, whereas the TN12-2014 has the smoothest body (contributing to a lower hand "feel" on this model, compared to the others). The pocket clip works well on all three models (note that the PD35 has the stiffest clip retention).

*Switch "Feel" and Access:* The P12 has significantly easier access to the tailswitch, relative to the PD35 and TN12-2014 (which are roughly equivalent to each other). This is odd, as it is only the P12 and TN12-2014 that allow tailstanding out of the box. That said, the PD35 has the best electronic side switch feel, with the most definite "click" - followed closely by the P12. The TN12-2014 has the "softest" side switch feel, but is the easiest to find by touch alone, as it is more raised than the other two. Note that only the P12 has a low-voltage and battery read-out LED located under the side switch.

*Constant Output Modes:* The TN12-2014 has the widest range of outputs, from ~0.2 lumens to >1000 lumens, with five well-spaced levels. The PD35 has five good levels as well, but lacks a true moonlight mode (i.e., from ~11 to ~1000 lumens range). The P12 has a good range from ~0.8 lumens to ~900 lumens, but only four levels (i.e., could use an extra Med-Hi mode).

*Blinking modes:* Only the P12 has additional modes beyond tactical strobe (i.e., SOS and Beacon). All three lights have the additional mode(s) "hidden" behind a press-hold of the side switch, but only the P12 allows you to memorize the tactical strobe mode (i.e., can return to strobe from Off).

*Beam Pattern:* The TN12-2014 and PD35 have similar wide spill beams, with the P12 slightly narrower. The P12 and TN12-2014 have roughly equivalent peak center-beam throw, with the PD35 having a bit less. The PD35 also has the widest hotspot, with the smoothest transition (i.e., least defined hotspot edge, and could thus be consider the "floodiest" of the three). Beam quality is pretty good on all of them, although the PD35 probably the most consistently "clean" beam, due to its slightly shallower reflector (i.e., slightly less likely to have beam rings and artifacts).

*Circuit Efficiency and Regulation:* All three lights are current-controlled, and highly efficient. The PD35 and P12 have more consistently flat regulation at all levels on all batteries – but have defined step-downs from their max levels. The PD35 is probably the most efficient pick, but performance is very close among all three. Note that I do not recommend you run the TN12-2014 on its max level on 2xCR123A/RCR for sustained periods, as there is no step down on this model. Please see the runtime graphs in this review for more info.

*Reverse-Polarity Detection:* The PD35 and TN12-2014 have electronic reverse-polarity protection, and P12 has a physical one. However, the P12 positive terminal has been re-designed to allow all type of button-top cells to be used (i.e., wide button as well as small – it is just true flat-tops that won't work in the P12). 

*Package and Accessories:* Bundled extras are pretty similar across the three models (and fairly basic for the holsters and wrist lanyards). Note the P12 comes with an additional grip ring. The lights all share a common sized head, so standard beam shaping accessories from any one maker should fit pretty well on the others.

*Value:* The TN12-2014 has the lowest manufacturer suggested retail price (MSRP), the PD35 has the highest, with the P12 is right in the middle. This relative order matches my general "hand feel" experience, but you will have to make your own assessment as to perceived value depending on all the characteristics above. 

And there you have it - there is no clear knock-down winner is any category. All three lights are similar overall, with each one specialized in some areas over the others. I recommend you pick based on which constellation of characteristics above matters the most to you. :wave:

P.S.: As an aside, I did a blind "taste preference" of the three models with Mrs Selfbuilt. This was based solely on her physical and visual assessment of the lights and their beams, as we didn't get into circuit testing or price. She was initially drawn to the PD35 for its grippier hand feel, higher perceived build quality, and smoothest beam pattern. However, lack of a true low mode and inability to tailstand (despite reduced tailswitch access) led her to ultimately choose the P12 as the best overall candidate. She was similarly able to accurately rank the lights by estimated price, but felt that the difference between the three models was not as great as the prices would suggest (based solely on a bulid assessment). She felt that a regular person would be amazed by what any of these lights can do, and would be happy with any of them. :wave:


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## Ryp

Thanks for the review!


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## nickdizonc

As always, AWESOME review and very useful data points. Just got this light and absolutely love it. Moreso now that I've seen the real world output figures. Thanks!


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## selfbuilt

nickdizonc said:


> As always, AWESOME review and very useful data points. Just got this light and absolutely love it. Moreso now that I've seen the real world output figures. Thanks!


Yes, it is quite a scorcher on max. I suspect that will be appealing to many.  But in practice, the difference between the max modes of the 3 models is not really noticeable (i.e., it's typically only ~10% lumen difference, with the TN12-2014 at the top). The variation in hotspot focusing may be more noticeable in actual use (especially at a distance).


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## gkbain

Thanks for the review. Once again Thurnite maintains excellent bang for the buck.


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## selfbuilt

gkbain said:


> Thanks for the review. Once again Thurnite maintains excellent bang for the buck.


Yes, the comment came up on my youtube page as well that the TN12 is priced remarkably low for what you are getting. I can only imagine they are trying to build up some interest. It certainly seems to be an outstanding value at the current price.


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## D6859

I was actually waiting for this review. Thank you very much! TN12 will be my first 18650 light


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## RBWNY

selfbuilt said:


> Note that I do NOT recommend you run the TN12-2014 on Max on 2xCR123A/RCR for any sustained period of time. You are likely to trip the PTC protection features of primary CR123A (due to heat build up), and it is not healthy for small capacity protected RCRs to be drained this quickly (i.e., likely exceeds the 3C discharge current for ICR chemistry Li-ion).



I guess this explains the issue I was having with my AW RCR's... (which I documented in the previous review from Flash Lion) whereby they wouldn't power the TN12 on turbo for more than about 1 minute before "tripping" and shutting off. I documented the incident 3x (making sure it happened each time) and called it a day.


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## selfbuilt

RBWNY said:


> I guess this explains the issue I was having with my AW RCR's... (which I documented in the previous review from Flash Lion) whereby they wouldn't power the TN12 on turbo for more than about 1 minute before "tripping" and shutting off. I documented the incident 3x (making sure it happened each time) and called it a day.


Yes, the sustained high drain on 2x cells is hard on the cells. I suspect the drain exceeds ICR chemistry specs for standard protected Li-ion cells (ie. 3C). You might be yet off with IMR cells for drain characteristics (but unfortunately, they are not protected). I always recommend protected cells in multi cell setups ... so 18650 is likely the "sweet spot" for this light.


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## RBWNY

selfbuilt said:


> You might be yet off with IMR cells for drain characteristics (but unfortunately, they are not protected).



Okay...that's what I was going to ask next! My IMR 18350's seem to work okay on turbo...(and as you pointed out), I try to be careful when using them due to the unprotected nature of the cells.


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## Fra881

awesome bang for the buck! thanks for the brilliant review as always.

how does it compare with the SC600 L2? I understand the zebra is much shorter, has PID, a much more advanced switch, costs more than the double and one every two is faulty thanks to excellent zebra quality control (I got 2 SC600L2 both defective, both functionally AND esthetically - for that price! bye bye zebra). but what about the beams, I guess the TN12 has (little?) more throw but is (little?) less floody?


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## selfbuilt

The SC600 II definitely has a more floody beam. If you pull up the white wall beamshots from that review, you can directly compare to the ones here (taken under the same conditions).


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## Fra881

selfbuilt said:


> The SC600 II definitely has a more floody beam. If you pull up the white wall beamshots from that review, you can directly compare to the ones here (taken under the same conditions).



however I don't see much of a difference in throw, I mean 206m vs 219m is more or less the same. or is actual throw difference bigger? (and by actual I mean to the eye, in open field)


ps: if I well junge by the pictures the tint on this TN12 2014 cw is quite good and slightly warmer the PD35. do you have any feedback on the neutral white TN12 2014?


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## oKtosiTe

Fra881 said:


> ps: if I well junge by the pictures the tint on this TN12 2014 cw is quite good and slightly warmer the PD35. do you have any feedback on the neutral white TN12 2014?


I assume the tint lottery has a big role to play here, but let's see what selfbuilt has to say...


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## selfbuilt

Fra881 said:


> however I don't see much of a difference in throw, I mean 206m vs 219m is more or less the same. or is actual throw difference bigger? (and by actual I mean to the eye, in open field)


The difference is in the pattern of the hotspot - the TN12 2014 has a much more defined hotspot, with a definite edge. The SC600-II has a gradual transition. Although the absolute peak centre throw is close, the TN12 throws much more of a "spotbeam" at a moderate distance, whereas the SC600 fades off quickly.



> ps: if I well junge by the pictures the tint on this TN12 2014 cw is quite good and slightly warmer the PD35. do you have any feedback on the neutral white TN12 2014?


You can't really tell much about tint from the beamshots, due to the auto white balance. But you also can't draw any conclusions from a single sample of each. I didn't notice anything unusual in any of the recent CW light in this class (i.e., all within a normal variation). I have no idea what a NW version would look like (and haven't heard anything about one being made), but I would imagine it too would be typical for that range. AFAIK, all these lights are only available in CW at the moment.


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## Fra881

selfbuilt said:


> The difference is in the pattern of the hotspot - the TN12 2014 has a much more defined hotspot, with a definite edge. The SC600-II has a gradual transition. Although the absolute peak centre throw is close, the TN12 throws much more of a "spotbeam" at a moderate distance, whereas the SC600 fades off quickly.
> 
> 
> You can't really tell much about tint from the beamshots, due to the auto white balance. But you also can't draw any conclusions from a single sample of each. I didn't notice anything unusual in any of the recent CW light in this class (i.e., all within a normal variation). I have no idea what a NW version would look like (and haven't heard anything about one being made), but I would imagine it too would be typical for that range. AFAIK, all these lights are only available in CW at the moment.



I don't know if I can put links here, but if you search on amazon you'll find the neutral white version easily


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## BWX

Fra881 said:


> I don't know if I can put links here, but if you search on amazon you'll find the neutral white version easily



I don't think that is really a "neutral" version. I think they just put that in there by mistake.

It is the exact same description, down to the same exact emitter..


--------------
--------------


Thanks for reviews of these 1x 18650 lights!


*edit*
....and... I just bought one from the Thrunite web site! :thumbsup:


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## Fra881

in a german forum a mod already has bought the nw and made a quick comparison


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## selfbuilt

BWX said:


> I don't think that is really a "neutral" version. I think they just put that in there by mistake.
> It is the exact same description, down to the same exact emitter..


That is not necessarily definitive, as XM-L2 U2 Neutral Whites do exist. But if the output bin is the same, then the only difference would be in tint. But given the uncertainty, I would recommend anyone interested in a NW version confirm with the store before ordering.



Fra881 said:


> in a german forum a mod already has bought the nw and made a quick comparison


Feel free to post a link if you have one. :wave:


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## Fra881

selfbuilt said:


> That is not necessarily definitive, as XM-L2 U2 Neutral Whites do exist. But if the output bin is the same, then the only difference would be in tint.



do you mean they have exactly the same lumens? (they both are given as 1050 lumens but I thought it was an error, and the nw would have been that 7-10% dimmer)

here it is  indoor beamshot comparison at page 8 http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/thrunite/32175-review-thrunite-tn12-2014-edc-dauerbrenner.html


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## selfbuilt

Fra881 said:


> do you mean they have exactly the same lumens? (they both are given as 1050 lumens but I thought it was an error, and the nw would have been that 7-10% dimmer)


Thanks for the link.

Typically, Neutral White emitters are one (or two) output bins lower than concurrently shipping Cool White versions. This is due to the extra phosphor required to "warm" up the color temperature (i.e., net effect is to reduce luminus flux, given common manufacturing processes). So that would mean anywhere from ~1-13% lower output (~7% lower on average) for any one bit-step down, depending on where exactly the two samples are within their respective bins. 

But you can find Neutral White U2-bins. Although uncommon, there would be no expected meaningful difference in output to a Cool White U2-bin emitter. Of course, they could vary up to ~7% (i.e., depending on where each one is within than common bin). And there are a lot of other variables between actual light samples (i.e. circuit, reflector, etc.) that can modulate that further. But the point is that the output bin is what matters in terms of output - regardless of the tint.

In this case, I see there is at least one other vendor that is reporting NW T6 output bins for the TN12-2014. That would be more in line with expectations (i.e., one output bin down).

You can't discriminate one output bin difference in real life (especially when tint changes), so the only real decision question should be which tint you prefer.

P.S.: As an aside, try not to ascribe too much meaning to tint comparison beamshots. It's not really possible to find a single common camera white balance that will match your relative perceptions.


----------



## Fra881

selfbuilt said:


> Thanks for the link.
> 
> Typically, Neutral White emitters are one (or two) output bins lower than concurrently shipping Cool White versions. This is due to the extra phosphor required to "warm" up the color temperature (i.e., net effect is to reduce luminus flux, given common manufacturing processes). So that would mean anywhere from ~1-13% lower output (~7% lower on average) for any one bit-step down, depending on where exactly the two samples are within their respective bins.
> 
> But you can find Neutral White U2-bins. Although uncommon, there would be no expected meaningful difference in output to a Cool White U2-bin emitter. Of course, they could vary up to ~7% (i.e., depending on where each one is within than common bin). And there are a lot of other variables between actual light samples (i.e. circuit, reflector, etc.) that can modulate that further. But the point is that the output bin is what matters in terms of output - regardless of the tint.
> 
> In this case, I see there is at least one other vendor that is reporting NW T6 output bins for the TN12-2014. That would be more in line with expectations (i.e., one output bin down).
> 
> You can't discriminate one output bin difference in real life (especially when tint changes), so the only real decision question should be which tint you prefer.
> 
> P.S.: As an aside, try not to ascribe too much meaning to tint comparison beamshots. It's not really possible to find a single common camera white balance that will match your relative perceptions.



crystal clear as always  thanks, I'll try the nw!


----------



## The Burgh

Have invested some time in looking at different vendors of TN12 (2014) as I seek a neutral tint.

Seems to me that the marketing folks have appropriated the term "neutral." I observe that all CWs that are accurately described are XM-L2 U2. The few offerors of NW describe their emitters as XM-L T6.

So emailed IS about their current offering of the XM-L2 U2. They confirmed it to be the CW version, and are hoping to receive in an order of NWs.

Nothing definitive here, just my findings from the (inaccurate) marketplace.


----------



## BWX

Another clue is that they are not even selling a NW version on their own website. It is only listed as the CW version.
http://www.thrunite-store.com/thrunite-tn12-2014/

If I could have gotten a NW with same output, I probably would have, but I like the very high output on this one 18650 CW light. Maybe I'll get a another NW version down the road.


----------



## Billybatson

Hey guys! I recently bought this light and had a question. When I first got the light I put in a fresh 18650 battery and when I turned the light on it jumped to strobe on its own. So I turned it off and took the battery out, then put it back in and it did it again. It stopped doing it for a while but then started again. Have you guys heard of this before? Any recomendations? Thanks in advance for the help.


----------



## selfbuilt

Billybatson said:


> Hey guys! I recently bought this light and had a question. When I first got the light I put in a fresh 18650 battery and when I turned the light on it jumped to strobe on its own. So I turned it off and took the battery out, then put it back in and it did it again. It stopped doing it for a while but then started again.


Aside from doing a thorough contact surface clean, there isn't much that I can think of it. Have you tried another cell? Otherwise, it could be a problem with the light's circuit.


----------



## AbnInfantry

On Thrunite's website, only one version of the TN12 is shown. On Amazon.com, the Thrunite Store is selling regular and "neutral white" versions of the TN12. I recently ordered a neutral white TN12 because, on the day I placed my order, it was the only version available on Amazon. This TN12 arrived and nowhere on the box, instruction sheet or flashlight does it mention anything about being "neutral white." Compared with my two Nitecore P12s, however, the beam from this TN12 is definitely warmer or "neutral."

Parts of the TN12's body feel more slim than the P12 and I don't find the TN12's side switch to be "squishy" at all. The TN12's switch is slightly smaller than the P12's, but easier to feel by touch than the P12's.


----------



## martinaee

He noted that some long 18650's are tight. Can someone recommend "shorter" 18650's? Also this light has momentary, right? I didn't see that mentioned, but probably just missed it.


----------



## oKtosiTe

martinaee said:


> He noted that some long 18650's are tight. Can someone recommend "shorter" 18650's? Also this light has momentary, right? I didn't see that mentioned, but probably just missed it.


EagleTac 3100s and 3400s are usually pretty safe bets.


----------



## BWX

Billybatson said:


> Hey guys! I recently bought this light and had a question. When I first got the light I put in a fresh 18650 battery and when I turned the light on it jumped to strobe on its own. So I turned it off and took the battery out, then put it back in and it did it again. It stopped doing it for a while but then started again. Have you guys heard of this before? Any recomendations? Thanks in advance for the help.



Just got mine today, and when I put in a battery, it came on in Turbo mode without touching anything.. Turned it off.. Turned it back on, and everything is fine.

Now when I remove battery and put it back in, it doesn't come on at all without touching any switch.. If I turn it on, then remove battery, it will come back on when I put in battery. After all it is a mechanical switch on the back. That is normal.

If I am holding side switch when I put battery back in after disconnecting battery while it is turned on, I can see it might come on in strobe. Actually it doesn't though, but it goes to strobe about 1 second after installing battery if I hold down side switch in that circumstance.


----------



## AbnInfantry

martinaee said:


> Also this light has momentary, right?



Yes, it does.


----------



## selfbuilt

BWX said:


> If I am holding side switch when I put battery back in after disconnecting battery while it is turned on, I can see it might come on in strobe. Actually it doesn't though, but it goes to strobe about 1 second after installing battery if I hold down side switch in that circumstance.


Sorry, I missed this comment earlier. Yes, this is normal for the light. That is, if you click-on (or twist-on, if switch is set to on) while holding down the side mode switch, there is a ~1 sec delay of constant output before strobe starts. 

The reason for the delay is the same as if you press and hold the side switch when the light is already on - the circuit waits for ~1 sec of constant mode switch press before turning on the strobe mode (i.e., wants to be sure you intend to enter strobe, and not just change levels). It is exactly the same when first activating the light - there is no power to the side switch until after the clicky switch is pressed, so the circuit has to wait to register the sustained mode switch press.


----------



## boanerges

Great review! I do not understand all the graphs, but when you explain in real world-simple terms, that does it for me! Thanks alot!


----------



## BWX

selfbuilt said:


> Sorry, I missed this comment earlier. Yes, this is normal for the light. That is, if you click-on (or twist-on, if switch is set to on) while holding down the side mode switch, there is a ~1 sec delay of constant output before strobe starts.
> 
> The reason for the delay is the same as if you press and hold the side switch when the light is already on - the circuit waits for ~1 sec of constant mode switch press before turning on the strobe mode (i.e., wants to be sure you intend to enter strobe, and not just change levels). It is exactly the same when first activating the light - there is no power to the side switch until after the clicky switch is pressed, so the circuit has to wait to register the sustained mode switch press.



Yup. I was just trying to think of a possible way that strobe would come on when first inserting a battery the way it did for Billybatson. That's pretty odd.


----------



## selfbuilt

boanerges said:


> Great review! I do not understand all the graphs, but when you explain in real world-simple terms, that does it for me! Thanks alot!


No problem, that's why I provide both.  

The graphs are really very useful if you take the time to compare the individual traces - it really is the best way to convey a lot of complex information quickly and accurately. They are also the most "objective", in that they are direct measures of performance over time. But I realize a lot of people don't necessarily care about the fine details of runtime, and just want to know how the light compares to others out there (in terms of handling, and beam pattern). That's why I can't seem to get away from writing long reviews. :laughing:



BWX said:


> Yup. I was just trying to think of a possible way that strobe would come on when first inserting a battery the way it did for Billybatson. That's pretty odd.


Ah, right. In my case, your post reminded me that I hadn't explained the lag in strobe activation in my original post. Since most lights with electronic-only switches proceed directly to strobe (e.g. the new Catapult V5 I just reviewed), I figured I should point out why the TN12-2014 was different in this regard.


----------



## BWX

Ok, good info.. still.


----------



## malocchio

Wonder when some inventory will show up,all the reputable dealers have been sold out for awhile now....


----------



## The Burgh

According to their site, Amazon now has "Neutral" units in kit form for ~ $129.


----------



## Javora

The Burgh said:


> According to their site, Amazon now has "Neutral" units in kit form for ~ $129.



I looked at the Amazon site but didn't see it listed.


----------



## The Burgh

Sorry, JavoaA, it was listed with 11 units available when I posted the above availability.


----------



## BWX

This nice diffuser that I bought in 2012 works perfectly with this flashlight.

*Olight T Series Diffuser T Series Flashlight Diffuser, White*
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051F7YAI/?tag=cpf0b6-20


----------



## Javora

The Burgh said:


> Sorry, JavoaA, it was listed with 11 units available when I posted the above availability.



No problem Burgh. Although that speaks volumes about the demand of this light.


----------



## cagenuts

BWX said:


> This nice diffuser that I bought in 2012 works perfectly with this flashlight.
> 
> *Olight T Series Diffuser T Series Flashlight Diffuser, White*
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051F7YAI/?tag=cpf0b6-20



Thanks very much for this tip. Added to my 'torches' wish list.

You guys are growing on me, I now say 'flashlight' more often than 'torch'


----------



## BWX

cagenuts said:


> Thanks very much for this tip. Added to my 'torches' wish list.
> 
> You guys are growing on me, I now say 'flashlight' more often than 'torch'



LOL, I always think of something like this when I hear the word "torch".







"Flashlight" is more specific to me.. Only a battery powered (or electric of some kind) light can be called "flashlight", to me.. 

Must be an "English" English and "American" English language thing.




P.S.
I paid $2.78, free shipping, no tax for that diffuser April 22, 2012. I guess I should have bought 10 of them.


----------



## Nightflash

Thanks Selfbuilt for yet another fantastic review with the usual high standard, always a top standard. 
Have been using this TN12/2014 only indoors on firefly mode (very good) and low and at first wasn´t overly impressed. Good value for the money but less agreeable to hold and less "tactical" than the Olight M20-X or the Klarus XT11 as well as a whole head longer than the Olight S20. Just took it out this evening (good weather, no wind) to test the max output - and wooowooohoo - absolutely and overly impressed with the output - it´s a ton of light coming out that small (only 25,5mm diameter) front compared to the 34,90mm of the Klarus XT11 (old version with 600lm). 
Respect! Completely changed my attitude towards this Thrunite and discovered what was disturbing me all the time: the very sharp edges of the (cheap?) clip are cutting and didn´t permit the right grip on it. Removed that clip and I´m loving it much more now - completely changed the feel. Will start using it much more from now on and see how it keeps performing.


----------



## D6859

My clip doesn't have sharp edges, but I just don't like its colour. I would like to have it with black colour as the light has.


----------



## selfbuilt

Nightflash said:


> Respect! Completely changed my attitude towards this Thrunite and discovered what was disturbing me all the time: the very sharp edges of the (cheap?) clip are cutting and didn´t permit the right grip on it. Removed that clip and I´m loving it much more now - completely changed the feel. Will start using it much more from now on and see how it keeps performing.





D6859 said:


> My clip doesn't have sharp edges, but I just don't like its colour. I would like to have it with black colour as the light has.


I didn't notice sharp edges on mine either, but I agree the clip does have a "cheaper" feel than some others. But of course, the actual price of this light is cheaper than those ones too.


----------



## Southpaw1925

*Thrunite TN12 2014 (XM-L2, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIME...*

Got mine today. I think there is something wrong with it. When I press the tail cap all the way down, the light just blinks once on high. That's it. It does it over and over. Same thing if I hold the button down on momentary as well.


I don't know what to do. Bought it from a seller from china. Who should I contact,
Thrunite??


----------



## Nightflash

*Re: Thrunite TN12 2014 (XM-L2, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIME...*

That´s really bad luck (correctable - see below). When holding the button on momentary mine just stays on (as long as I hold the button) when pressing further down resistance increases until it clicks on, makes a second equal click when releasing the button and light stays on. Hey just tried to unscrew just 1 mm and exactly what You describe happens one flash and it goes off every time also on momentary. You just have to tighten it or try another battery. Must work.


----------



## Southpaw1925

*Thrunite TN12 2014 (XM-L2, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIME...*

This is weird. I just turned the flashlight on this morning and the light works fine. I know last night, I did a lot of unscrewing and screwing to investigate, and perhaps my last assembly of the light ade things work. I disassbled and put the light together again this morning and again, it works fine. UI woks fine. It switches modes easily. Obviously the battery and the head works fine, it has something to do with how tight or loose the body is I think


----------



## selfbuilt

Yes, a likely explanation is the switch retaining ring in the tailcap is loosening up. That would explain the behavior described. Try using the end of a paper clip to tighten the ring (turn clockwise, with the paper clip end in one of the holes).


----------



## Southpaw1925

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, a likely explanation is the switch retaining ring in the tailcap is loosening up. That would explain the behavior described. Try using the end of a paper clip to tighten the ring (turn clockwise, with the paper clip end in one of the holes).



You mean one of these holes right?


----------



## D6859

Southpaw1925 said:


> You mean one of these holes right?



I was about suggest those too. Tighten them and the light should work.


----------



## Southpaw1925

D6859 said:


> I was about suggest those too. Tighten them and the light should work.



It works flawlessly now. Thanks guys!!


----------



## Nightflash

Happy end Congrats on Your TN12. Since I have the clip off using it all the time. Nice


----------



## Southpaw1925

Nightflash said:


> Happy end Congrats on Your TN12. Since I have the clip off using it all the time. Nice



Brightest behemoth of a flashlight on 18650 I've ever seen. Love love love the UI!


----------



## Southpaw1925

Well folks, it is doing it again  it was working fine this morning up until now. Here's what I noticed tho. 

I don't know if it is the retaining ring in the tail cap bc the light works perfectly fine (even on momentary) on moonlight,
Low, medium and high. 

But continuing to press the side switch to get to turbo mode, the light blinks once and it shuts off. It'll continue to blink once and shut off everytime you press the tailcap all the way down. 

The only way to get back to moonlight (which is the next mode after turbo) is, momentarily press the button very precisely and slowly to get the turbo to turn on. Once turbo is on, you carefully press the side switch for it to go back on moonlight. 

There is also no strobe mode. The light shuts off once you hold the side switch. 

Basically the light works fine and switches mode until you hit turbo. What should I do?
This is my first thrunite light and my experience so far has been horrid


----------



## Southpaw1925

Here's a link of the video I made for it:

http://youtu.be/X23VfpBxK2o


----------



## BWX

Southpaw1925 said:


> Got mine today. I think there is something wrong with it. When I press the tail cap all the way down, the light just blinks once on high. That's it. It does it over and over. Same thing if I hold the button down on momentary as well.
> 
> 
> I don't know what to do. Bought it from a seller from china. Who should I contact,
> Thrunite??







RMA it. 

If you don't know how to RMA it, contact the seller. 

One thing to think about when purchasing on-line (anything really), is what your options are if you get it and it doesn't work. That is why I buy from well known retailers, not some random e-bay user or lowest price I could find on Google and some website I have never heard of.

You may save 1 dollar, but in long run sometimes it is worth paying the extra dollar for peace of mind.

I guess you could contact Thrunite directly and ask them, but sometimes manufacturers will only deal with you if you bought their product from an "approved" retailer. I have no idea if Thrunite works like that or not. Email them and find out if you get nowhere with retailer you bought it from.


----------



## Southpaw1925

*Thrunite TN12 2014 (XM-L2, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIME...*



BWX said:


> RMA it.
> 
> If you don't know how to RMA it, contact the seller.
> 
> One thing to think about when purchasing on-line (anything really), is what your options are if you get it and it doesn't work. That is why I buy from well known retailers, not some random e-bay user or lowest price I could find on Google and some website I have never heard of.
> 
> You may save 1 dollar, but in long run sometimes it is worth paying the extra dollar for peace of mind.
> 
> I guess you could contact Thrunite directly and ask them, but sometimes manufacturers will only deal with you if you bought their product from an "approved" retailer. I have no idea if Thrunite works like that or not. Email them and find out if you get nowhere with retailer you bought it from.



Yup, already contacted them. Seller named thrunite_shop. He was actually really communicative with my concerns and reassured to me that it will be solved. He asked to email him the video above so he can fwd it to r&d. He said he will get back to me by Monday. Possibly mailing me another one. Might of just caught a lemon.

But I learned my lesson. Will buy straight
from the manufacturer or authorized retailer.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Thrunite TN12 2014 (XM-L2, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIME...*



Southpaw1925 said:


> Yup, already contacted them. Seller named thrunite_shop. He was actually really communicative with my concerns and reassured to me that it will be solved. He asked to email him the video above so he can fwd it to r&d. He said he will get back to me by Monday. Possibly mailing me another one. Might of just caught a lemon.
> 
> But I learned my lesson. Will buy straight
> from the manufacturer or authorized retailer.



So the retailer said he's going to "send the video to R&D"? LOL.. what "R&D" department does he have? LOL.. At that point I would have started getting "firm" with him (or her) and told them to give me mailing address and RMA number immediately or else I'd take it up with Paypal or my credit card or whatever other options I might have.


I definitely wouldn't "wait till Mon." if it was Wed..


----------



## Southpaw1925

*Thrunite TN12 2014 (XM-L2, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIME...*



BWX said:


> So the retailer said he's going to "send the video to R&D"? LOL.. what "R&D" department does he have? LOL.. At that point I would have started getting "firm" with him (or her) and told them to give me mailing address and RMA number immediately or else I'd take it up with Paypal or my credit card or whatever other options I might have.
> 
> 
> I definitely wouldn't "wait till Mon." if it was Wed..



Actually not too long after my last post
I went ahead and let him know if nothing is resolved I will get my refund (30 day money back guaranteed). If they don't comply I will take it to eBay, then PayPal. I will give him the benefit of the doubt since the whole entire buying process he has been very
Professional and communicative so we'll see come Monday.


----------



## ThruNite

*Re: Thrunite TN12 2014 (XM-L2, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIME...*

Now. TN12 has come back to stock in US amazon. Thanks


----------



## The Burgh

*Re: Thrunite TN12 2014 (XM-L2, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIME...*



ThruNite said:


> Now. TN12 has come back to stock in US amazon. Thanks



Yes, but cool white tint only. Can't find neutral tint anywhere.


----------



## selfbuilt

Southpaw1925 said:


> Basically the light works fine and switches mode until you hit turbo. What should I do?
> This is my first thrunite light and my experience so far has been horrid


Have you tried another battery? Since the behavior only occurs on the maximally-driven Turbo and Strobe modes, a possibility is that the circuit is detecting a battery issue at this drive level, and shutting down.


----------



## Southpaw1925

selfbuilt said:


> Have you tried another battery? Since the behavior only occurs on the maximally-driven Turbo and Strobe modes, a possibility is that the circuit is detecting a battery issue at this drive level, and shutting down.



I thought about that and charged a brand new 18650 battery to %100 and still, does the same exact thing.


----------



## selfbuilt

Southpaw1925 said:


> I thought about that and charged a brand new 18650 battery to %100 and still, does the same exact thing.


What kind of cells are you using? Assuming a quality brand, this would definitely be RMA time.


----------



## Southpaw1925

selfbuilt said:


> What kind of cells are you using? Assuming a quality brand, this would definitely be RMA time.



I got it from a local battery store. L






My charger didn't indicate that it was a bad cell but who knows, the charger could be wrong. 

But just to be sure I did just order a nitecore 18750 3400mah cell so we'll see.


----------



## selfbuilt

Hmm, I gather those are something of a budget brand. The Nitecore cell should help settle the matter for you.


----------



## Southpaw1925

selfbuilt said:


> Hmm, I gather those are something of a budget brand. The Nitecore cell should help settle the matter for you.



I really really hope so :/


----------



## cagenuts

Southpaw1925 said:


> But just to be sure I did just order a nitecore 18750 3400mah cell so we'll see.



If you're in the LA area I can give you one for free.


----------



## rickypanecatyl

Does anyone know if the turbohead from the TN11/Scorpion/Lynx/SubbeanT10 will screw on to this light for more throw?


----------



## Southpaw1925

cagenuts said:


> If you're in the LA area I can give you one for free.



San Diego


----------



## cagenuts

Southpaw1925 said:


> San Diego



Don't you have a friend in LA who could collect for you? I actually have four of them looking for a good home.


----------



## Southpaw1925

cagenuts said:


> Don't you have a friend in LA who could collect for you? I actually have four of them looking for a good home.



To donate?


----------



## cagenuts

Southpaw1925 said:


> To donate?



If you need them, then yes. They are brand new Nitecore 3400mAh 18650s. They came bundled with a Fenix TK75 that I bought but the courier refused to ship the batteries. I think there is also one of those Edison sample packs. All you have to do is collect.


----------



## Southpaw1925

*Thrunite TN12 2014 (XM-L2, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIME...*



cagenuts said:


> If you need them, then yes. They are brand new Nitecore 3400mAh 18650s. They came bundled with a Fenix TK75 that I bought but the courier refused to ship the batteries. I think there is also one of those Edison sample packs. All you have to do is collect.



Sending pm now  check your messages in a few mins


----------



## Southpaw1925

Just went to the battery store where I got my 18650. He put a different fully charged 18650 as well as 2x rcr123's in it and both battery types did the same exact behavior. Looks like I got a lemon. 

He also said the cell I posted earlier isn't a generic cell. It's made from Samsung.

Looks like I will for sure ask for a refund.


----------



## BWX

cagenuts said:


> If you need them, then yes. They are brand new Nitecore 3400mAh 18650s. They came bundled with a Fenix TK75 that I bought but the courier refused to ship the batteries. I think there is also one of those Edison sample packs. All you have to do is collect.



You want to sell one or two? You could ship it some other way right?


----------



## D6859

Had to test mine and it takes up to 2,2 A on turbo mode. It might be too much for the protection circuit in the cells. Just guessing though.


----------



## Deadly_Pooh_Bear

Hello,

I'm getting ready to buy this light and it will be my first 18650 light. I own a Klarus XT11 and use CR 123's in it. I don't really have any experience with 18650's. I'm looking for recommendations on a brand and model of rechargeable 18650. I was surfing the various threads and I would like to go with a protected cell but I would like it to fit the light. I plan on using the 18650's in my Klarus. After reading the comments I looked at the Eagletac 3400's and would like to get some other options. I work in law enforcement and don't mind spending the extra money for a high quality rechargeable battery and charger system if it will perform well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

Adam


----------



## selfbuilt

Deadly_Pooh_Bear said:


> I don't really have any experience with 18650's. I'm looking for recommendations on a brand and model of rechargeable 18650. I was surfing the various threads and I would like to go with a protected cell but I would like it to fit the light. I plan on using the 18650's in my Klarus. After reading the comments I looked at the Eagletac 3400's and would like to get some other options.


The Eagletac 3400mAh cells would be a good choice. You can check out the eletronics/batteries forum here for more suggestions (including chargers). HKJ's reviews are particularly helpful.

I certainly concur with the use of protected 18650 cells in this light.

:welcome:


----------



## D6859

Deadly_Pooh_Bear said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm getting ready to buy this light and it will be my first 18650 light. I own a Klarus XT11 and use CR 123's in it. I don't really have any experience with 18650's. I'm looking for recommendations on a brand and model of rechargeable 18650. I was surfing the various threads and I would like to go with a protected cell but I would like it to fit the light. I plan on using the 18650's in my Klarus. After reading the comments I looked at the Eagletac 3400's and would like to get some other options. I work in law enforcement and don't mind spending the extra money for a high quality rechargeable battery and charger system if it will perform well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Adam



I recall reading that Eagletacs cost extra because they're just some quality batteries re-branded for Eagletac. But I'm not sure and don't want to confuse. Just don't pay extra only because there's a well-known brand name on the calls. I use mine with Keeppower 3400 mAh and Xtar sp1 charger.


----------



## Rick_R

Deadly_Pooh_Bear said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm getting ready to buy this light and it will be my first 18650 light. I own a Klarus XT11 and use CR 123's in it. I don't really have any experience with 18650's. I'm looking for recommendations on a brand and model of rechargeable 18650. I was surfing the various threads and I would like to go with a protected cell but I would like it to fit the light. I plan on using the 18650's in my Klarus. After reading the comments I looked at the Eagletac 3400's and would like to get some other options. I work in law enforcement and don't mind spending the extra money for a high quality rechargeable battery and charger system if it will perform well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Adam



Adam, I'am also in LE, and the battery's that I currently use are "Orbtronic's". As for the chargers, the "Nitecore" i2/i4 and "XTAR" SP-1 & VP2. They all work very well. Amaz** was the vendor.
I have the early version of this light (just ordered this current version). It's my back, back up.


----------



## Deadly_Pooh_Bear

Thank you guys for the advice. The more I look around this forum the more questions a have. I was looking at 18650's that had a higher mAh, 3400 vs 3100 vs 2900 vs 2100. My initial thought was to get a 3400 mAh because it's a more powerful battery which would lead to brighter light and longer run times vs the lower mAh batteries. BUT I just learned through the threads on here that some lights work better on lower mAh than higher. So I'm wondering what the TN 12 likes the best. I'm concerned that if I use the wrong mAh level that I could damage or be extra hard on the cells causing a diminished performance and a reduced lifetime of the battery. Please let me know if I'm digging way to deep into all of this. I feel like finding a good quality rechargeable battery that I can use in different 18650 lights should not be this hard. On the up side I think I'm going to pick up an XTAR VP2 so half of the battle is done. :twothumbs


----------



## malocchio

Deadly_Pooh_Bear said:


> Thank you guys for the advice. The more I look around this forum the more questions a have. I was looking at 18650's that had a higher mAh, 3400 vs 3100 vs 2900 vs 2100. My initial thought was to get a 3400 mAh because it's a more powerful battery which would lead to brighter light and longer run times vs the lower mAh batteries. BUT I just learned through the threads on here that some lights work better on lower mAh than higher. So I'm wondering what the TN 12 likes the best. I'm concerned that if I use the wrong mAh level that I could damage or be extra hard on the cells causing a diminished performance and a reduced lifetime of the battery. Please let me know if I'm digging way to deep into all of this. I feel like finding a good quality rechargeable battery that I can use in different 18650 lights should not be this hard. On the up side I think I'm going to pick up an XTAR VP2 so half of the battle is done. :twothumbs



I am wondering the same thing !....My first 18650 torch as well.....I ordered the Orbtronic 2900mah and the Pila charger....now I wonder if a higher drain 18650 is better?


----------



## InspectHerGadget

malocchio said:


> I am wondering the same thing !....My first 18650 torch as well.....I ordered the Orbtronic 2900mah and the Pila charger....now I wonder if a higher drain 18650 is better?



It is really size dependent although most protected high capacity 3400mAh cells will fit most new models of lights.

The Panasonic NCR18650B Protected 3400mAh cells which are 68.9mm long and 18.6mm wide. These cells fit in my Eagletac MX25L3 even though ET specify a maximum length of 68.5mm.

The high drain cells are popular on the forum and may be necessary for high current draws on customised circuits, are probably not needed for this light, AFAIK.

Diameter can be an issue as can be length but manufacturers generally want commonly used cells to fit their product.

It is always nice if someone can contribute who has tried these cells on THIS model with success or otherwise, then you know for sure!!!

I mention these cells, by the way, as they are commonly available on ebay for good prices. They are also very high quality and high capacity. Shipping of batteries overseas by air is also an issue as they are items requiring special shipping. In Australia, these cells are shipped by surface post as far as I know.

Protected cells are worth getting according to Selfbuilt and others. This is important protection to have if your light or charger develops a fault.


----------



## selfbuilt

InspectHerGadget said:


> The high drain cells are popular on the forum and may be necessary for high current draws on customised circuits, are probably not needed for this light, AFAIK. ...
> Protected cells are worth getting according to Selfbuilt and others. This is important protection to have if your light or charger develops a fault.


Yes, I agree with both points here. Although the TN12-2014 is highly driven for a stock light (on max), it doesn't quite pass into the territory where IMR chemistry is needed. As such, I recommend your stick with quality protected (ICR) cells. 

As for which cells, I've tried ones up to 69.0mm in height the light, and they have worked fine. So you should be ok with most of what is on the market. Batteries based around the Panasonic NCR18650A (3100mAh) or B (3400mAh) cores should do very well.


----------



## cagenuts

selfbuilt, is it better to go with the 3400mAh or 2600mAh for these single cell lights?


----------



## Deadly_Pooh_Bear

Just ordered some eagletac 18650 3400 mha rechargeable for this light. We will see how they work. Also ordered an Xtar Vp2. I plan on getting some Keeppower if I can find a retailer who has them in stock. I'll check back when everthing comes in.


----------



## 18650

Has anyone purchased the neutral version yet and able to report back on the CCT? The T10T seems to be available in neutral too.


----------



## InspectHerGadget

I ordered one of the NW ones on Monday.

I already have confirmation of shipping from Singapore by registered mail! 

I live in Australia so this is a five hour air flight direct to Perth so should have it very soon.

Impressed. You know I think that these guys at ThruNite, not only know how to engineer a light, but are reasonable on supply and maybe have the distribution worked out.

Zebralight seem to have CONSTANT issues with supply that stretch on for months. I've heard so many stories about poor QA on those SC600 lights , it makes it a lottery buying one (if you don't mind waiting weeks/months).

Having said that I hope I don't have to eat my words when I get the TN12!


----------



## The Burgh

InspectHerGadget said:


> I ordered one of the NW ones on Monday.
> 
> I already have confirmation of shipping from Singapore by registered mail!
> 
> I live in Australia so this is a five hour air flight direct to Perth so should have it very soon.
> 
> Impressed. You know I think that these guys at ThruNite, not only know how to engineer a light, but are reasonable on supply and maybe have the distribution worked out.
> 
> Zebralight seem to have CONSTANT issues with supply that stretch on for months. I've heard so many stories about poor QA on those SC600 lights , it makes it a lottery buying one (if you don't mind waiting weeks/months).
> 
> Having said that I hope I don't have to eat my words when I get the TN12!



*Where did you find a NW TN12? * They have been very hard to locate!


----------



## rickypanecatyl

Does anyone know if the turbohead from the Lynx/Scorpion will fit on this?


----------



## BWX

InspectHerGadget said:


> I ordered one of the NW ones on Monday.
> 
> I already have confirmation of shipping from Singapore by registered mail!
> 
> I live in Australia so this is a five hour air flight direct to Perth so should have it very soon.
> 
> Impressed. You know I think that these guys at ThruNite, not only know how to engineer a light, but are reasonable on supply and maybe have the distribution worked out.
> 
> Zebralight seem to have CONSTANT issues with supply that stretch on for months. I've heard so many stories about poor QA on those SC600 lights , it makes it a lottery buying one (if you don't mind waiting weeks/months).
> 
> Having said that I hope I don't have to eat my words when I get the TN12!



Yeah this light is great, works great, etc..

But I went back to SC600 because I couldn't stand the interface on this for EDC. I like the tail switch, just too bad that there's still a side switch. If it was just a tail switch it would have been great I think.

Oh well. I'll use it for something. Right now it is hanging above a little work-station I work on RC helis and whatnot, with a diffuser on it. It would be a good bike light too I think. Probably great to mount to a gun. For EDC it's just a pain to switch modes after turning it on.


----------



## selfbuilt

rickypanecatyl said:


> Does anyone know if the turbohead from the Lynx/Scorpion will fit on this?


No, it's not the same size head or threading.


----------



## InspectHerGadget

BWX said:


> Yeah this light is great, works great, etc..
> 
> But I went back to SC600 because I couldn't stand the interface on this for EDC. I like the tail switch, just too bad that there's still a side switch. If it was just a tail switch it would have been great I think.
> 
> Oh well. I'll use it for something. Right now it is hanging above a little work-station I work on RC helis and whatnot, with a diffuser on it. It would be a good bike light too I think. Probably great to mount to a gun. For EDC it's just a pain to switch modes after turning it on.



I think that the SC600 is a great torch and well designed but it is overpriced and in spite of ordering it on two separate occasions I gave up waiting after two weeks.

Imagine how long it would take to get anything fixed or done under warranty, you would be waiting months from the feedback I have seen on other threads.

It really isn't acceptable and there are plenty of other similar lights on the market which are well designed such as the TN12, the PD35 etc..

I might add too if I was designing a light I would have the side mounted switch only like the SC600. Unless you're shining a light into a car window to check someone's licence, I don't see the point in a tail switch although it may be easier to use in climates where you have to use gloves. Here in Perth, it isn't relevant, just too warm. I don't even wear gloves in the Winter. I have the ET MX25L3 and so far the only time I used the tail switch was when I took it out of the packaging to test everything.

The SC600 is a fine torch as long as you don't mind paying a lot for a torch and a clip, no holster or lanyard, don't mind waiting months to get it and aren't concerned at the poor and slow service if something goes wrong with it (which is quite likely as their QC isn't great).


----------



## BWX

InspectHerGadget said:


> I think that the SC600 is a great torch and well designed but it is overpriced and in spite of ordering it on two separate occasions I gave up waiting after two weeks.
> 
> Imagine how long it would take to get anything fixed or done under warranty, you would be waiting months from the feedback I have seen on other threads.
> 
> It really isn't acceptable and there are plenty of other similar lights on the market which are well designed such as the TN12, the PD35 etc..
> 
> I might add too if I was designing a light I would have the side mounted switch only like the SC600. Unless you're shining a light into a car window to check someone's licence, I don't see the point in a tail switch although it may be easier to use in climates where you have to use gloves. Here in Perth, it isn't relevant, just too warm. I don't even wear gloves in the Winter. I have the ET MX25L3 and so far the only time I used the tail switch was when I took it out of the packaging to test everything.
> 
> The SC600 is a fine torch as long as you don't mind paying a lot for a torch and a clip, no holster or lanyard, don't mind waiting months to get it and aren't concerned at the poor and slow service if something goes wrong with it (which is quite likely as their QC isn't great).



Yeah even just a single side switch would be better, for me anyways. Side or tail, just one switch please. Anything else makes turning on, then getting light output you want, way too time consuming and needlessly lengthy. I just happen to like tail switches more, but the SC600 is ok with it's side switch after you get used to it.


BTW the TN12 side switch would be really hard to use with a gloved hand too, even compared to the something like the SC600 with it's huge recess that can easily be found. 

The TN12 is a great light still, has great output, and was a great deal, no doubt.


----------



## cagenuts

What's the deal with everyone _needing_ a tail switch? Are you guys seriously walking around pretending to be special forces? When I hold a torch, the head switch is in the most natural position, right under my thumb.

I understand a tail switch from a tactical/military perspective but for normal use like walking the dog, looking to see who is stealing your car, trying to wire-up your new hi-def tv in the dark etc.


----------



## InspectHerGadget

cagenuts said:


> What's the deal with everyone _needing_ a tail switch? Are you guys seriously walking around pretending to be special forces? When I hold a torch, the head switch is in the most natural position, right under my thumb.
> 
> I understand a tail switch from a tactical/military perspective but for normal use like walking the dog, looking to see who is stealing your car, trying to wire-up your new hi-def tv in the dark etc.



I agree although I don't mind the tail switch either, well not too much. All the lights reviewed by self built with the TN12 all have tail and side switches. It seems to be the fashion for many lights in this class. I'm not sure why it is done that way. I can't think of any reason why you can't simply have a side switch. My ET MX25L3 has a tail and a side switch but they both have the same function so you have a choice of both.


----------



## cagenuts

I'm guessing that the tail switch is a physical lock-out whilst the side/head switch is electronic. To eliminate power drain when off, the physical switch is required. I don't buy into the twist to lock-out theory as that would irritate the bananas out of me.


----------



## BWX

cagenuts said:


> I'm guessing that the tail switch is a physical lock-out whilst the side/head switch is electronic. To eliminate power drain when off, the physical switch is required. I don't buy into the twist to lock-out theory as that would irritate the bananas out of me.



You guessed wrong, the side switch is just a mode switch. You have to use tail switch to turn it off and on every single time, then use side switch to adjust output. It would be a lot better if it was the way you were guessing though, except that the switch would come on by accident a lot, it is very easy to push and it sticks out from the body of the light. One thing the SC600 has completely cured (my EDC).




cagenuts said:


> What's the deal with everyone _needing_ a tail switch? Are you guys seriously walking around pretending to be special forces? When I hold a torch, the head switch is in the most natural position, right under my thumb.
> 
> I understand a tail switch from a tactical/military perspective but for normal use like walking the dog, looking to see who is stealing your car, trying to wire-up your new hi-def tv in the dark etc.





On the subject of a tail switch vs side switch.. 

You always know where the switch is, if it is on the end of the flashlight, even with gloved hand or even in the dark. 
That alone is one very large reason to want one. And no you don't need to be "tactical" to use a tail switch, that is just ridiculous. A tail switch is very ergonomic and easy to use.


----------



## InspectHerGadget

cagenuts said:


> I'm guessing that the tail switch is a physical lock-out whilst the side/head switch is electronic. To eliminate power drain when off, the physical switch is required. I don't buy into the twist to lock-out theory as that would irritate the bananas out of me.



Mmm. The current drain is so minimal, it takes months to drain the battery and in some cases years although granted it may be relevant to someone who just has a torch for emergency use. In that case, though why would you even bother with a rechargeable?

The lock out again is something I can use on the MX25L3 but why bother? The two switches on the MX25L3 are both electronic switches too but take many months to drain, about 21 months or nearly two years.


----------



## cagenuts

BWX said:


> You guessed wrong, the side switch is just a mode switch


not the first or the last time this will happen :kiss:



> On the subject of a tail switch vs side switch..
> 
> You always know where the switch is, if it is on the end of the flashlight, even with gloved hand or even in the dark.
> That alone is one very large reason to want one. And no you don't need to be "tactical" to use a tail switch, that is just ridiculous. A tail switch is very ergonomic and easy to use.



Yes I actually agree with you. My attention span meds have clearly worn off as I can't remember what the issue is.

Mine was delivered to a friend in New York and it will come over with someone else in June so looking forward to that.


----------



## Javora

selfbuilt said:


> No, it's not the same size head or threading.



To bad, I was hoping I could swap out the head of a TN12 and use it with the body of a TN11S. I think that set up would be perfect for me.


----------



## BWX

cagenuts said:


> not the first or the last time this will happen :kiss:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I actually agree with you. My attention span meds have clearly worn off as I can't remember what the issue is.
> 
> Mine was delivered to a friend in New York and it will come over with someone else in June so looking forward to that.



LOL! :laughing: 

You'll like the light, it's powerful, well built, modes spaced well, etc. If you want to switch it on a lot, and change modes a lot from off, like I happen to, it is just kind of a pain; but I am sure most people won't use it like I use mine (my EDC).

For a general purpose, compact, 1x 18650, extremely powerful flashlight.. for the price, it cannot be beat. 

I'm still glad I bought it. It is also great to let someone else use it that isn't a "flashlight guru". It is very simple and easy and straightforward to use. Anyone can quickly understand: rear switch- power, side switch- for brightness adjustment. Try handing over your SC600 to a novice and watch them struggle, so in a lot of ways it has it's advantages too.


----------



## cagenuts

I also bought an Armytek Wizard Pro NW which I believe has 9 modes so looking forward to handing that over to my wife to use


----------



## InspectHerGadget

My EDC torch is a P5R.2 and has a tail switch. Ok a very small light, it is the way to go. I think whatever light you get you get used to the way it works.


----------



## rickypanecatyl

InspectHerGadget said:


> I think whatever light you get you get used to the way it works.



Problem is when you have multiple lights that FEEL roughly the same with vastly different UI's!


----------



## InspectHerGadget

rickypanecatyl said:


> Problem is when you have multiple lights that FEEL roughly the same with vastly different UI's!



The lenser P5R.2 just has a switch on the tail which controls normal mode, low and strobe. Great little light. I use it everyday in my job which involves computers and often looking inside them.


----------



## D6859

cagenuts said:


> What's the deal with everyone _needing_ a tail switch? Are you guys seriously walking around pretending to be special forces? When I hold a torch, the head switch is in the most natural position, right under my thumb.
> 
> I understand a tail switch from a tactical/military perspective but for normal use like walking the dog, looking to see who is stealing your car, trying to wire-up your new hi-def tv in the dark etc.



I used to EDC Olight S15, but as it had only electronic side switch I had to lock-out it by unscrewing the tail cap after few times it had accidentally turned on in my pocket draining the batteries empty. Then, when the light was needed I had to screw it back (usually using my both hands) and after that turn it around to press the side switch. Good tail switch does the lock-out and turning off the light in one click. Also, when I need the light I (do like to pretend I am special forces and) often lift the light next to my chin. This position has the advantage of illuminating what I can actually see without extra shadows. If I took out my dog, I'd most likely held it otherwise to better see the shapes of the ground. The tail switch does not prevent me from using it that way though. I'm not saying that the UI in TN12 was perfect, but that I wanted a light with tail switch and TN12 fit my budget well


----------



## kestrel140

Great job as usual. I have had some flickering issues with my PD35 and replacing the tail switch has not solved the mystery. I have had many Fenix lights and never had a single issue(TK22, LD12, E01, PD35). The PD35 was purchased for use on the job. As a safety inspector my tools must be reliable, hopefully my new P12 from Nitecore is more reliable.


----------



## jhc37013

Like the Nitecore P12 I wish the TN12 had a "burst" mode, as in when the light is turned on and no matter what mode you are in you can hold down the button for max mode and when you let off it resumes in the previous mode kind of like the EC25 Cobra but instead they both strobe when you hold the mode button down.


----------



## InspectHerGadget

jhc37013 said:


> Like the Nitecore P12 I wish the TN12 had a "burst" mode, as in when the light is turned on and no matter what mode you are in you can hold down the button for max mode and when you let off it resumes in the previous mode kind of like the EC25 Cobra but instead they both strobe when you hold the mode button down.



I think the strobe function on any light is a waste of time unless you are a LEO. I mean people are deluding themselves if they think it is going to prevent an attack. IMHO if it did prevent an attack it would have been a half hearted effort to start with. The use of the strobe is more likely to precipitate an attack than stop it. It might be useful if you really used it correctly while you confused an attacker momentarily while reaching for a baton, pepper spray or taser but most ordinary untrained people are better simply to avoid trouble in the first place and are likely to fumble at the critical moment.

I have an ET MX25L3 and it does have that feature where you can just press and hold to get max. from any level. This is handy for sure. The strobe is a toy to impress friends and a tool for people trained in the use of it to assist in arresting suspects.

The thread on tactical use of strobe revised my ideas on strobe...


----------



## CPF21

selfbuilt said:


> That is not necessarily definitive, as XM-L2 U2 Neutral Whites do exist. But if the output bin is the same, then the only difference would be in tint. But given the uncertainty, I would recommend anyone interested in a NW version confirm with the store before ordering.



I inquired Thrunite about their current TN12 Neutral White offering and here is the response I got:

Now it is used T6 bin.​​But at the very early purchase in America, it was U2 bin, about the last year the first inventory of TN12 2014 is used U2 bin.​​​​We will mention this on product specification.​​and thanks for your reminding.​​


----------



## BWX

Wow I should have jumped on that U2 NW. Oh well.


----------



## InspectHerGadget

I just got mine in the mail with the NW emitter.

First impression are 'wow, it is smaller than I thought'.

The quality is definitely there in the build and the switches. Nothing not to like. I will bring it out tonight and compare it to my other lights and report back.

A lot of light for the size and price.


----------



## InspectHerGadget

I think I will post this under what I did with my light today thread!

I went down on dark to the lake/swamp with my TN12 and my ET MX25L3 to compare them. I didn't get a chance to really compare them. I heard a dog barking on on what seemed like the lake so I fiddled around checking the beams but could still hear this barking. I then spent quite a bit of time scanning the lake using both torches. I was then quite sure that there was a dog out there somewhere so I looked for the eyes, carefully. I eventually spotted a pair of eyes and it was a long way out but encouraged the dog in. It is very swampy and wet around the edges but the dog got out and looked suitably bedraggled and tired. A black mutt. I found the mobile number and left a message then looked and realised it was a friend's name coming up on my phone! I then checked the tag and sure enough it was one of their two dogs! I knew where they lived so delivered her home.

Meanwhile 'Dad' had gone home with the other dog to grab a light but we never crossed paths. He left a message tonight to say Thank You. Mia evidently loves chasing ducks but she was close to drowning out there I think.

Lights? Well, I don't like the controls on the TN12. I think having a situation like that made me rather like the controls on the EagleTac. I know some people don't like the twist head but honestly it just works and is simple to use and you don't have to cycle through different beam levels.

The nice thing with the ET is you always know where you are by a simple twist, very quick and easy to use even when stressed or busy.


----------



## cagenuts

Good for you on saving the dog's life. I should get mine late next week so I'll give it a test and report back.


----------



## InspectHerGadget

It is a great light by the way. The beam is warmer than the MT-G2 emitter and it has amazing power for a small light. It also did not get as hot as I thought when on maximum. The ET does get hot pumping out 2000+ Lumens, much warmer than this.

I did enjoy using this light tonight on my later walk which I just came back from. I do like the ET twist head better but the differences in the controls and whether you like them or not is always a matter of opinion. The twist head means you can turn on the light at a chosen level, not just the last level the light was on when you turned it off. 

A point that was raised too is that level four and maximum are so similar it is hard to see the difference. TN could definitely drop the power of level four down somewhat, so that it isn't a redundant level but also as I found myself clicking one beyond if I didn't watch closely and then I would be in low mode again and have to cycle through the levels once more.

It is hard not to like this light though...

I got a message from my friend to to thank me. The dog was definitely in trouble. She didn't know where to swim so I did feel like I did something very worthwhile tonight. I know the dog quite well too. I used to call them the 'turbo dogs' as when they were younger they would run and run fast the entire time they were down the park. They are very active, poodle and labrador crosses but getting older now. Her buddy Bella was waiting at the door when I brought her home. My friend had grabbed a torch and was down the park looking for her which would explain why Mia was looking back all the time as I was bringing her home. Very cute.


----------



## selfbuilt

InspectHerGadget said:


> I then spent quite a bit of time scanning the lake using both torches. I was then quite sure that there was a dog out there somewhere so I looked for the eyes, carefully. I eventually spotted a pair of eyes and it was a long way out but encouraged the dog in.


Yes, eye shine is really the best way to spot animals outdoors. Your lights would have been very useful for guiding the way back to shore for that poor dog - I'm glad to hear of the safe rescue and outcome.

People often think they need a heavy thrower to spot critters - and that's really not the case. The most important thing is to hold the light up around the level of your own eyes, to best catch the reflections off the tapetum lucidum (at the back of the animal's eyes). It's much the same principle as reflective signs or clothing - you don't need a lot of lumens on the target to be able to distinguish the blow back. Of course, this only works if the animal is looking at you - but that is exactly what happens if you are carrying a flashlight. In essence, you become a giant beacon for them to track. Good job! :thumbsup:


----------



## InspectHerGadget

I've been running the TN12 for several walks now and I have to say I really like it. The output and beam quality is impressive. I'm getting used to the controls. The NW tint is very nice, no complaints. The MX25L3 gives a wall of light but is 4x the cost and 6x the weight. I carry both. The holster that comes with it works just fine and I've taken the pocket clip off, lanyard on. This works best for walking. Battery life is adequate for a long walk.

The switches are excellent quality and I found both switches have a nice feel and click to them

Overall an absolute steal for the price and the obvious quality built into it.


----------



## jarheadgreasemonkey

Anyone purchase one of these as part of the "package deal" available on Amazon?

I've asked some specific questions in other threads about the ThruNite MCC-2 charger, but I'm wondering about the ThruNite branded 18650's...

The package deal seems like a good price; but I don't mind paying more for better cells.

Having said that, if the ThruNite cells are protected Panasonic's I'd be happy with that (I hope; based on all the info I've been reading on CPF).


----------



## cagenuts

Based on this excellent review, I purchased one in late March. It arrived this morning (shipped to a US address and then brought over via a colleague). Initial impression is certainly positive. I particularly like the firefly mode and the size is perfect for casual hand held use.

The supplied holster/pouch is better quality than I was expecting so that's an added bonus. I've installed a Keeppower (Sanyo) 2600mAh 18650 so hopefully this will suffice. I couldn't justify the extra cost (57% more) for a Panasonic cell Keeppower 3400mAh.

I also bought an Amrytek Wizard Pro NW (warm) and the tint is certainly different between the two. For camping and night photography, the NW Armytek will work fine but I like the CW of the Thrunite for ultimate brightness as I don't care what colour the trees are, I just want to catch Sipho hiding behind a bush waiting to attack me. 

Thumbs up for Thrunite and again thanks to selfbuilt for the review.


----------



## InspectHerGadget

Hi Cagenuts.

I'm sure you'll enjoy the light. The longer Panasonics fit fine but aside from battery life, it is much the same. You can always change the battery for a fresh one if needed and it is easy to do so even in the dark.

Overall, very pleased I bought this light. It really leaves no room for wasting more money on small lights. I have my headlamp which my wife now uses as she is coming out on walks with me. I use the MX25L3 ET mainly but I enjoy using the TN12 also and I need a back up light and it is a good all around light. 1000 Lumens is quite a lot of Lumens, even more than is needed sometimes. The great thing with this light is it will keep pumping out the lumens without getting too hot. It does get somewhat hot though, mainly around the head. I guess running on level 4 about 800 Lumens is still much better performance than you would get out of a smaller light.


----------



## cagenuts

InspectHerGadget [dig the handle dude and I assume you use your flashlight for this]

Do you find the max setting mode a bit of an waste of time. I really can't see much of a difference between that and the previous mode and the run times are identical.

I'm going to put the nice lanyard on my Fenix TK75.


----------



## InspectHerGadget

A light does help when lost in the forest for sure...

I agree that the maximum and next setting down are very close. I'm not sure it is a bad thing or not. I guess it would be better if it were say 600 Lumens which is still plenty bright enough but would still give very good battery life and a bright light. 

The levels are 0.2, 20, 330, 810, 1020. I would like maybe a regulated 600 Lumen output.

It is a great light though. I have no desire to buy another similar light, it ticks all the boxes.

I'm impressed that they can make such a good light for this price point.


----------



## crucialcolin

Great review! I'm seriously considering this light. I'm curious as to how this might stack up against a P60 based light(ex solarforce l2) or convoy m1. Both other routes I'm considering. Of particular interest is flow vs flood. I would imagine this would win on battery life due to driver.


----------



## rickypanecatyl

Great dog story! I don't know what I would have done in that situation-while reading I was thinking I might have been afraid the light would scare or confuse him and not have tried what you did.
I'm glad to hear it worked and Selfbuilt's line about becoming a beacon - now I know what I'll do if I'm in your situation!


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## Blueman

I jus ordered one of these. I already have a Srt-7 by Nitecore, and I love it. But the case..... in my line of work, is not soo well. I work in Law Enforcment, and need a descent Holder for the Thrunite. I already know it won't work in my case for the SRT-7. I was actually looking for a light, another Officer asked me to get him a quality light, like mine. Wile I was looking at the SRT-7 LIKE models, I found this Newer version of the TN-12. Looked at asll the video's and I know I will not be sorry. So instead of getting him a light, I got me another. ( yea, he will get one soon as well, but after he see's how well it works.) Again, jus need a hint of where to look for a light, thinking Kydex if I can't find anything else.


----------



## selfbuilt

Blueman said:


> I jus ordered one of these. I already have a Srt-7 by Nitecore, and I love it. But the case..... in my line of work, is not soo well. I work in Law Enforcment, and need a descent Holder for the Thrunite.


I agree, the case is very basic, and not likely to hold in well. I too was thinking maybe something along the lines of Kydex or Maxpedition, but don't know of any specific models per se.

And :welcome:


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## Blueman

Allrighty then.... Got this thing in the mail today, checked it out inside a dark room. Gotta say, NOT a fan of the Neutral White version of this, jus doesn't seem as bright as my SRT-7 inside and in a dark room. I will be able to check out the throw, and distance tonight once it gets dark. I do think I like the handling and ergonomics. Will post more, once I test at night. Yes, Love the Compactness too.


----------



## Blueman

Sad news.......

Ok, the Neutral White ( FADED White/YELLOW Tint ) Really is NOT COOL on LED Flashlights. First one I ever had, and I WILL NEVER Buy another, it is like dumbing down the light, what sense does this make? So I tested the light out all night at work. I work in a Prison, and since it is at night, I have ample opportunities to try it in dark area's doing rounds inside and out, and in the MANY dark area's I wish we didn't have. Even tested it against the SRT-7. and I concluded since the SRT-7 had the white LED, that it won every-time over the brightness of the two. Ergonomically, the TN-12 won over every-time. Couldn't understand because of the hype I have heard about the 1000 Lumens. But, I concluded the "YELLOW TINT" LED is the reason why. Here is the funny part. I thought I had put the same batteries in the two flashlights, to do an even test. I didn't. I have Nightcore 2600 Mah 18650's, and for back up No name brand blue 5000 mah el'cheapo's. Well I had the El'cheapo's in the SRT-7 during the whole test. Which means I would of probably had a brighter SRT-7.

Second bad news. 

After I tested the flashlights out, I kept the TN-12 to carry, jus to try to like the Yellow tint, and it was less bulky. I later goto get my keys out of my pocket, and the TN-12 fell out ( caught by the key's ), and fell the WHOLE way from my pocket UNDER my belt, and walla, One TN-12 broke when it hit the whopping 3ft drop. ON THE FIRST NIGHT I HAD IT. FURIOUS, no. (PAST THAT, here I have bragged about this light since I ordered it, and then right in front of everyone, my light breaks, and it's not even like it fell from afar.)
Yes I am contacting them. I will get another, but without the YELLOW Tint, and PRAY it get's to the bar of quality it has been expected to be, and I just HOPE I had a dud.


----------



## InspectHerGadget

I like the neutral white, no issues. It seems well made and is rated for a standard 1m drop test but obviously it can't guarantee no damage from a drop.

Very bad luck though for you and annoying.

My favourite tint is the MT-G2 emitter which really is neutral.


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## selfbuilt

Blueman said:


> Couldn't understand because of the hype I have heard about the 1000 Lumens. But, I concluded the "YELLOW TINT" LED is the reason why.


Also sorry to hear yours didn't survive the drop, hopefully you will have better luck with the replacement.

It's true that tint will subjectively impact one's perception of brightness (with cool white often seeming brighter). But in this case, I suspect the fact that SRT7 has almost twice peak beam intensity is the major explanation. Once you move out beyond a couple of meters, the intensity of the hotspot will be the prime factor in assessing relative perceptual "brightness". This is why if you shine the lights down a corridor, the SRT7 will seem brighter every time. However, if you were to stand inside a cell, I suspect the TN12 would indeed light up to the room to a higher degree. However, the difference won't be huge - based on my testing, I would expect the neutral TN12-2012 to be only ~20% brighter than the SRT-7 overall in terms of lumens (both on 18650).


----------



## Salter

I just got my TN 12 2014 NW today from Amazon .ca. It cost $59.95 Cdn no shipping and included a thrunite 18650 2600mah battery. Very bright . I do not mind the difference between it and some of my cool whites. So far no regrets,


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## Blueman

Well, they are sending me a replacement, sure I will like. Jus glad to be getting into Quality and not staying with the el'cheapo 20.00 packages that had the light, batteries and a charger. They worked, but had to be SUPER careful, they break looking at them, or if they feel Moisture from the dew on the side of the soda your next door neighbor just opened... lol.


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## InspectHerGadget

Wow, I'm surprised, pleasantly that Thrunite are sending a replacement after you dropped it. Do they want you to return it or just taking your word and dispatching another one? 

I really like like this light. It is even replacing my Lenser P5R.2 as I just have it set on 20 lumens and the on switch on the end is perfectly placed with just the right feel and pressure. I carry this for work, definitely my EDC.


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## Blueman

Replacement, had to give the tracking number to them, and original info from Order. It should be here this week, maybe tomorrow. They even changed the emmitter to the Non-Yellow. eeeew, I hated that thing, really made me feel like it was darker/less bright. They just make me feel like I have an Ol' 3'D Flashlight.


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## Blueman

So, I have a result. I like the replacement flashlight that Thrunight sent. It works great, like the cool white. I am going to have to remember there is a difference in the two. Only problem I have is actually, I won't be keeping the light. Seems the Second order was first Lost, at least that is what Fed Ex, advised then when I called them, it was damaged. And that is a problem with Fed. Ex. To keep it short, the light will end up going to the person I ordered the second light package for, and I will have to get a totally different light for my second quality light. This is the least I can do, since I ordered the item for him, and have to refund his money.

In short, the TN12 is good, but may break when dropped from your pocket. But when an Item is being shipped, and you are not picking it up from a store.... It can get Lost and or Damaged.

Thanks for listing to my rants fella's...


----------



## sonofjesse

Thanks for the time for a very detailed review. I haven't got a new light in a little while, I like have enjoyed Fenix over the years, but thought I would try something else. (I have some other thrunite lights and been happy). 

For the price around 50 dollars US shipped this light is hard to beat. Been going out at night to test it out last 3 nights and very impressed. I find the "MED" and "LO" modes to be quite useful for the tasks I like to perform around the house. The HI/MAX modes are nice, but I won't be using them much unless just showing friends how cool that is in this size. 

Anybody do a run time on medium with a 3,000 MAH 18650? I would like to know that run time. 

Overall i'm very pleased with this purchase and its a good value for what you get.


----------



## selfbuilt

sonofjesse said:


> Anybody do a run time on medium with a 3,000 MAH 18650? I would like to know that run time.


Since the light is fully regulated - and the drive level is reasonable - on Med, you can estimate the runtime difference fairly accurately. Assuming a quality cell with an accurate rating, just do a proportional difference calculation based on the 2200mAh cells used here.


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## Bigpal

I ordered a neutral TN12 2014. I was considering it and your review sealed the deal. I can't wait to get it - it looks like a great value. Thanks for the always awesome reviews.


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## Blueman

18650... seen a review, it stayed on max for a FULL 2 hours.... Wouldn't suggest that though, that might fry the light. Would get really hot, but still worked.

Sent from my ME172V using Candlepowerforums mobile app


----------



## wingspar

I’ve had my Thrunite TN12 (2014) for a few days now. I was surprised, and almost disappointed in the yellow tone of this light when I first got it, but in reality, it really shows true colors better than the cool white lights. Comparing the lights to my Fenix lights, this little light puts out tons of light. My biggest complaint about this light is that the mode button is impossible to find in the dark. My fix for this has been to rotate the clip till it points to the mode button. This makes it easier to find, but if wearing gloves, I think I would still have to take the glove off to find the switch. I do prefer the tail cap clickys. I do not care for the last mode memory. I would prefer it came on in low mode all the time, hence, I go thru all the modes till I’m back to low before turning the light off.

I have one question I just have not been able to figure out, and it doesn’t necessarily pertain to the TN12, but I see (CW) in parentheses a lot. What does this mean?


----------



## Wolf359

Has anyone used protected Panasonic 3400mAh in the TN12, I contacted Trunite and they repliied that there own 3400mah cells where contained panasonic ncr 18650B and they fitted, length 68.6mm, diameter 18.5mm

I got mine from Banggood SKU: 2XSKU101462 and they measure Length 70.50mm / 2.77" measured from the top of the button to the contact plate on the bottom. FYI used food wrap plastic to isolate, subtracted 0.01mm for the film thickness. Width 18.62 / 0.73" measured at the widest part where the metal strip is under the plastic wrap. 
Now all i have to do is workout what flashlights will fit the cells TN13 and the Fenix PD35 are my preffer lights at the moment but before buying them i would like to know if the batteries i have fits.

Also is there an extention tube ? on the trunite website it qoutes "Working voltage: 2.7V-9V" ?


----------



## cistallus

wingspar said:


> I have one question I just have not been able to figure out, and it doesn’t necessarily pertain to the TN12, but I see (CW) in parentheses a lot. What does this mean?



Normally it means Cool White - the beam tint.


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## InspectHerGadget

I've used the 68.5mm green 3400 NCR 18650B and they fit fine. Isn't your question whether Banggood is good bang for the buck or a waste of money? They are bigger than the standard green Panasonic cells you see on ebay.

I just bought mine on ebay. I use them in an ET MX25L3 too and they're good in that as well. They use a Sanyo protection chip.


----------



## wingspar

cistallus said:


> Normally it means Cool White - the beam tint.



Thank you. In the CPF Acronyms/Terminology part of this forum, it defines CW as “Complied With” which does not make any sense. Even in the manufacturers web site I see (CW) by the light, and I just don’t know what that means. I just got a Thrunite TN12 (2014) (CW) and the (CW) is on the manufactures page about the light, but it has more of a yellow tint to me in comparison to my Fenix lights. Not a complaint, as I like it. It shows true colors much better.


----------



## cagenuts

wingspar said:


> I just got a Thrunite TN12 (2014) (CW) and the (CW) is on the manufactures page about the light, but it has more of a yellow tint to me in comparison to my Fenix lights.



That sounds wrong to me. My cool white TN12 is certainly very white whereas my other neutral white (NW) lights have that yellow tint to them.


----------



## Wolf359




----------



## wingspar

cagenuts said:


> That sounds wrong to me. My cool white TN12 is certainly very white whereas my other neutral white (NW) lights have that yellow tint to them.



A photo is worth 1,000 words is the old saying. This is my first attempt at photographing beam shots, and I think it turned out very close to dead on as to what my eyes see. On the left is my Fenix PD30 at 265 lumens and on the right is my brand new Thrunite TN12 (2014) at 280 lumens. As you can see, the PD30 has more of a bluish white to it and the TN12 has a yellow to it. Now, for the foot in mouth part. I just looked at my receipt for the TN12 and I bought the Neutral White light without knowing I was doing so or knowing that there was a difference, but since I’ve already taken the photo and uploaded it, I’ll post it anyway. I do like the neutral light as it seems to light up objects in their true colors. I’ve gotten used to the CW lights over the years. I haven’t bought a light for a few years nor have I posted here for a while, so I just learned a ton in this thread alone.







Cool White on the left - Neutral White on the right in my photo.



Wolf359 said:


>



This makes sense out of your photo for me. Thank you for posting it.


----------



## dc38

wingspar said:


> A photo is worth 1,000 words is the old saying. This is my first attempt at photographing beam shots, and I think it turned out very close to dead on as to what my eyes see. On the left is my Fenix PD30 at 265 lumens and on the right is my brand new Thrunite TN12 (2014) at 280 lumens. As you can see, the PD30 has more of a bluish white to it and the TN12 has a yellow to it. Now, for the foot in mouth part. I just looked at my receipt for the TN12 and I bought the Neutral White light without knowing I was doing so or knowing that there was a difference, but since I’ve already taken the photo and uploaded it, I’ll post it anyway. I do like the neutral light as it seems to light up objects in their true colors. I’ve gotten used to the CW lights over the years. I haven’t bought a light for a few years nor have I posted here for a while, so I just learned a ton in this thread alone.
> 
> Cool White on the left - Neutral White on the right in my photo.
> 
> 
> 
> This makes sense out of your photo for me. Thank you for posting it.



interesting...was the white balance favoring the fenix somehow? Those shots male the tn12 look almost 3000k...


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## wingspar

dc38 said:


> interesting...was the white balance favoring the fenix somehow? Those shots male the tn12 look almost 3000k...



I used Auto WB. When I first looked at the photo, it looked dead on, or close enough to have to be a little nit picky about the color, or Kelvin Temp, but I set the lights up and looked at them again before answering, and the photo does to show more yellow in the TN12 than is there in real time. I could probably tweak the brightness of the photo to reduce the yellow, but I decided to not do any processing, other than to resize and sharpen. The photo does show what I was trying to show, and in the process I learned what (CW) and Neutral White are. I did not know I bought a neutral White light, and did not know they were available or that they were called that, so it’s definitely something I will look for in my next light.

As for the Kelvin Temp of the TN12, I thought I might have some software that could measure it, but I don’t.


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## joshjp

Hey guys, new to this forum, I just ordered the TN-12 2014, can't wait to get it, as of now I have the Thrunite 2a, its a great light for the money, I don't know what to expect for this light, anyways TY for this great review, and normally how long does it take thrunite to ship out? And should I buy there 18650 batter is with charger? Or get from somewhere else? Thanks abunch


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## cagenuts

You don't need their charger or batteries but if it comes in a kit then it may be worthwhile.

I use the Nitecore i4 and Keeppower protected cells.


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## D6859

Thrunite TN 12 + Xtar sp1 + Keeppower 3400 has worked for me. I ordered them from three different places. Even got discount off the charger  It can be used to charge my mobile phone, which is a good feature when your camping in a place where flashlights are needed. I recommend to compare options if you don't want to make compromises.

Also, welcome to the forum!


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## InspectHerGadget

joshjp said:


> Hey guys, new to this forum, I just ordered the TN-12 2014, can't wait to get it, as of now I have the Thrunite 2a, its a great light for the money, I don't know what to expect for this light, anyways TY for this great review, and normally how long does it take thrunite to ship out? And should I buy there 18650 batter is with charger? Or get from somewhere else? Thanks abunch



It took two weeks to get mine in Perth. It is a light of solid performance and everything feels just right. I bought a Nitecore charger that holds four batteries. I bought the Panasonic batteries separately.


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## joshjp

Thanks for the replys guys, i ordered kn the 22nd, and it hasent shipped yet, i emailed them and they said it will ship today, i hope it does. I thik i might get the Nitecore batteries with there charger, they have a deal on Amazon as i dont know how to purchase items from there Website.

EDIT.... Well it still didnt ship out EVEN THOUGH they said it would, im a little upset with Thrunite, and i cant even call them because there phone number doesnt work for me....GRRR


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## staticaz

Great review. I know this is kind of an apples and oranges question but, I currently use the new model Olight S20 baton rated at 550 lumens as my "all the time have it with me light" however, I would light a light that is not much larger than the Olight but has a higher output. I know the specs state that the Thrunite has almost twice the output but, in real world use, will I see a big difference in the visual output of the Thrunite over the Olight S20 baton? 

Thank you...


----------



## cagenuts

staticaz said:


> I would light a light that is not much larger than the Olight but has a higher output. I know the specs state that the Thrunite has almost twice the output but, in real world use, will I see a big difference in the visual output of the Thrunite over the Olight S20 baton?



You will certainly see a difference but not sure it's worth the cost of a new light when the existing one is still working. In terms of size, the Zebra Light SC600 MkII is more like the S20 than the TN12 would be.


----------



## selfbuilt

cagenuts said:


> You will certainly see a difference but not sure it's worth the cost of a new light when the existing one is still working. In terms of size, the Zebra Light SC600 MkII is more like the S20 than the TN12 would be.


Agreed on both points. Something like the Eagletac D25LC2 would also be higher output (and reasonably compact).


----------



## staticaz

Thank you....


----------



## ice_man

I am torn between the Thrunite TN12 and the Nitecore P12. So I decided to order both and see which one I would like. Ordered from Amazon on the 30th and got the TN12 just a few minutes ago. The P12 will arrive tomorrow.

So far, I only have the SRT7 to test it with. To my eyes, they almost have the same brightness. But ofcourse, that's not a scientific test. I cannot wait to test it out and get a feel on both the lights (TN12 & P12 together).


----------



## joshjp

Any thoughts on the TN12 vs the Nitecore P12?


----------



## joshjp

I really like the TN12, i got the Natural White version, but i want the Cool White one, i got the Olight R40 Seeker and that thing is nuts also, hut the TN12 iis to and i great for EDC.


----------



## kst

joshjp said:


> I really like the TN12, i got the Natural White version, but i want the Cool White one, i got the Olight R40 Seeker and that thing is nuts also, hut the TN12 iis to and i great for EDC.



I really like the TN12 also, got the Cool White version, but want the NW... wanna swap?


----------



## Lord Flashlight

I haven't really road tested mine yet. How are people using this light? Which mode gets the most use?


----------



## cagenuts

Lord Flashlight said:


> I haven't really road tested mine yet. How are people using this light? Which mode gets the most use?



I used mine on High for checking for unwanted indigenous hiding behind a bush waiting to rob and kill me and then on Low when I lock up at night so I don't disturb my sleeping wife.


----------



## Lord Flashlight

Excellent thanks! I was thinking the high and low modes would get the most use.


----------



## joshjp

Lord Flashlight said:


> I haven't really road tested mine yet. How are people using this light? Which mode gets the most use?


Well i usualy use mode 3 around 280lm, but i tested it at all settings, but i think i will use the mode 3 for around the house, and firfly mode when the wife is sleeping.


----------



## martinaee

dc38 said:


> interesting...was the white balance favoring the fenix somehow? Those shots male the tn12 look almost 3000k...



It's all relative. A camera doesn't function like the human eye and won't be able to show how the tint truly looks to the adjusted human eye. What pictures will show accurately is the difference between the tints. If you could find out the exact color temp of both lights and then set your camera exactly in the middle that's about the best you can do.

That shot looks pretty accurate though. Your eye doesn't realize how much warmer a neutral tint is if it is adjusted to a cool white tint.


----------



## ice_man

joshjp said:


> Any thoughts on the TN12 vs the Nitecore P12?



I got both and returning the TN12. I like how the P12 handles and fit more snugly into my hand. The TN12 is thinner and more prone to rolling in my hands. Also the TN12 feels too smooth while the P12 is more grippy.

I also didn't like the green tint on my TN12 (Cool White). The P12 looks more like daylight to me that the TN12 greenish cast.


----------



## ice_man

martinaee said:


> It's all relative. A camera doesn't function like the human eye and won't be able to show how the tint truly looks to the adjusted human eye. What pictures will show accurately is the difference between the tints. If you could find out the exact color temp of both lights and then set your camera exactly in the middle that's about the best you can do.
> 
> That shot looks pretty accurate though. Your eye doesn't realize how much warmer a neutral tint is if it is adjusted to a cool white tint.



If the camera has a Kelvin setting for the white balance, you can actually get more accurate colors. All you have to do is set it to daylight values of between 5000 Kelvins to 5600 Kelvins. That will help out get the closest colors the human eyes can see.

AWB is always hit and miss. It is better to put the camera in manual control to achieve the closest color reproduction.


----------



## joshjp

Im returning my TN12 2014, i took off the Pocket Clip and some of the black paint came off, this shouldnt happen with this light, si i just ordered the Cool White version, i will just leave the Pocket Clip on that one.


----------



## selfbuilt

joshjp said:


> Im returning my TN12 2014, i took off the Pocket Clip and some of the black paint came off, this shouldnt happen with this light,


Actually, it happens pretty commonly with a lot of lights, in my experience. Something I find that works well to minimize this when removing a clip is a small drop of oil at either end of the attachment point on the light. Rotate the clip around a little to spread the oil, and pull off in one quick motion. Wipe of excess oil, and you should have minimized any anodizing scratches.


----------



## cagenuts

Thanks for the tip selfbuilt.


----------



## joshjp

selfbuilt said:


> Actually, it happens pretty commonly with a lot of lights, in my experience. Something I find that works well to minimize this when removing a clip is a small drop of oil at either end of the attachment point on the light. Rotate the clip around a little to spread the oil, and pull off in one quick motion. Wipe of excess oil, and you should have minimized any anodizing scratches.


Hmmm ok, i just wont remove the clip, its not a big deal to me as i clip it on my pocket.


----------



## joshjp

I also have a question to selfbuilt, i got tge Olight R40 Seeker, and that is way brighter then my TN12 2014, do you know why this is?, is the Cool White
brighter then the Natural White TN12? TY


----------



## selfbuilt

joshjp said:


> I also have a question to selfbuilt, i got tge Olight R40 Seeker, and that is way brighter then my TN12 2014, do you know why this is?, is the Cool White brighter then the Natural White TN12? TY


I haven't handled a R40 seeker yet, so can't comment with any certainty. It is likely slightly brighter overall (based on specs), but the main difference will be the greater throw from the larger head. Have you tried a ceiling bounce in a dark room to compare overall output? Otherwise, the throwier beam pattern is likely to fool the eye into thinking it is brighter than it is. Also, tint has a huge effect on relative perception - cool (with a bit of blue) always looks "brighter" to the eye than warm. Put those three things together, and you have the most likely explanation.


----------



## wingspar

martinaee said:


> It's all relative. A camera doesn't function like the human eye and won't be able to show how the tint truly looks to the adjusted human eye. What pictures will show accurately is the difference between the tints. If you could find out the exact color temp of both lights and then set your camera exactly in the middle that's about the best you can do.
> 
> That shot looks pretty accurate though. Your eye doesn't realize how much warmer a neutral tint is if it is adjusted to a cool white tint.



I thought about setting White Balance for each light and photographing them separately, then put the two photos side by side in Photoshop, but decided to keep it simple. My photo showed what I was trying to show and in the process I learned a lot about emitters just by posting that photo.


----------



## joshjp

selfbuilt said:


> I haven't handled a R40 seeker yet, so can't comment with any certainty. It is likely slightly brighter overall (based on specs), but the main difference will be the greater throw from the larger head. Have you tried a ceiling bounce in a dark room to compare overall output? Otherwise, the throwier beam pattern is likely to fool the eye into thinking it is brighter than it is. Also, tint has a huge effect on relative perception - cool (with a bit of blue) always looks "brighter" to the eye than warm. Put those three things together, and you have the most likely explanation.


THANK YOU, you should review the Olight R40 Seeker, its great but the different modes are bad in my opinion, but anyways i will test the TN12 Cool White when i get it this Thursday, i gotta send the one i have back.


----------



## staticaz

Well, I couldn't stand it, opted for the TN12 2014 and received it yesterday, unbelievable how much light this thing puts out. Did a very unscientific comparison between this and my Olight S20 baton by bouncing the beam off of my wall , then using a lux meter to measure the reflected amount of light that it returns from one foot away. As I said, I know this is not the classic way to do this but, it gives me some idea when comparing light output. 
With the new Olight S20 rated at 550 lumens, I was registering 90 lux, with the TN12 2014, I registered 145 lux. Visually it appears to be even greater than that but, bottom line, a truly amazing light. One thing I noticed pretty quickly though is that running it on High-Turbo will result in it's getting warm pretty fast. Much more so then with the Olight S20 but, I guess that's to be expected with the higher output. I also did this comparison with the UltraFire 502b which resulted in a return of 63 lux so, while the UltraFire for about $12 is a pretty decent deal, no way is it putting out the 1050 lumens that both it and the Thrunite are advertised as doing.


----------



## joshjp

staticaz said:


> Well, I couldn't stand it, opted for the TN12 2014 and received it yesterday, unbelievable how much light this thing puts out. Did a very unscientific comparison between this and my Olight S20 baton by bouncing the beam off of my wall , then using a lux meter to measure the reflected amount of light that it returns from one foot away. As I said, I know this is not the classic way to do this but, it gives me some idea when comparing light output. Yea the TN12 i
> With the new Olight S20 rated at 550 lumens, I was registering 90 lux, with the TN12 2014, I registered 145 lux. Visually it appears to be even greater than that but, bottom line, a truly amazing light. One thing I noticed pretty quickly though is that running it on High-Turbo will result in it's getting warm pretty fast. Much more so then with the Olight S20 but, I guess that's to be expected with the higher output. I also did this comparison with the UltraFire 502b which resulted in a return of 63 lux so, while the UltraFire for about $12 is a pretty decent deal, no way is it putting out the 1050 lumens that both it and the Thrunite are advertised as doing.


Yea the TN12 is a beast, i love it alot....


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## joshjp

Well i just got my Cool White TN12 today YAYYYYY, the Tint is way different then the Natural White, i gotta play with it more.


----------



## InspectHerGadget

This is an excellent light. I carry mine with me every day and use it mainly for inspecting equipment. I find the levels spaced just right. I like the on/off on the back so I normally have level 2 selected which is just about right for what I need it for. It is a well built impressive and not too expensive piece of technology.


----------



## joshjp

Yes it is a great light, to bad i found dust inside were the led is, bad QC Thrunite, might not buy from them anymore.


----------



## staticaz

10-4....almost screwed up when I ordered mine from Amazon, by default, it had selected the neutral white due to the wait times being longer for the cool white. Glad I waited the extra 5 days. I know they should both be putting out the same amount of measured light but that cool white looks brighter to my eyes.


----------



## joshjp

Thats why i ordered the Natural White i didnt want to wait for the Cool White, but now having both i like the Cool White more, and yes to my eyes it seems brighter, but only a little bit.


----------



## cagenuts

There's a high correlation between those who prefer cool white and those with a low post count.


----------



## joshjp

The cool white is more natural to my eyes, when shin8ng it in my room the colors of whats in there is better with the NW.


----------



## D6859

cagenuts said:


> There's a high correlation between those who prefer cool white and those with a low post count.



More lumens = better? 

But there are cases when you just need light to see obstacles and so on. Then you might choose CW to see some metres further.


----------



## realista

staticaz said:


> One thing I noticed pretty quickly though is that running it on High-Turbo will result in it's getting warm pretty fast. Much more so then with the Olight S20 but, I guess that's to be expected with the higher output. I also did this comparison with the UltraFire 502b which resulted in a return of 63 lux so, while the UltraFire for about $12 is a pretty decent deal, no way is it putting out the 1050 lumens that both it and the Thrunite are advertised as doing.


hei... i also received this flashlight. it is my first "good" flashlight and i use it with panasonic ncr18650B and i noticed it is REALLY HOT within 20 seconds or 30 in high mode.
i don't know if it is normal....ok it is summer ...but i thought an efficient driver/led could be less hot.
do you think is it a defective batch?


----------



## BWX

cagenuts said:


> There's a high correlation between those who prefer cool white and those with a low post count.



I wouldn't necessarily say that. Lots of flashaholics like CW light as well as NW but for different reasons and different tasks. All you have to do is ask a manufacturer or retailer which ones sell more.



------------------------------------


I got this light (CW) and an Xtar SP1 charger for a family friend with an Eagletac 3400 and then two Olight 3400s batts that came in today from GG with those little cases. 

He really liked the power of my ZL SC600 MK 1 B XM-L when he saw it, but I thought the interface might be a bit much for a rookie flashlight owner, and he's like 70 years old.. He loves the TN12 CW though. He loves the power it has on the high modes, for such a small flashlight.


----------



## selfbuilt

realista said:


> i don't know if it is normal....ok it is summer ...but i thought an efficient driver/led could be less hot.


No, it will get hot - that behavior is normal. The deciding factor is really how heavily driven a light is - and the TN12 is among the brightest in this category.


----------



## realista

so, these kind of flashlight are the best hand's friend for the winter season.......i will not need to wear gloves with this XD (1min left hand, 1 min right hand, 1 min left... ahaha )
however... selfbuild i noticed 2 things about the light:

1) the SPOT is not defined as a perfect CIRCLE.... but seems to have 4 corners. it is not a very visible( i think 5 person on 100 could see it but i am one of those) thing but i noticed it rotating the ligght. this is the example of what i mean for the central spot(not the spill). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ApDuvU-bv...AAE28/SVJ99ANy_rY/s1600/stencil-girandola.jpg

2) the light temperature ( color) is not so cold as expected to be. I read the same thing on a review on amazon. The tint is more on the warm side of light....... it is still "cold" ....but one of the least cold light i think.


----------



## selfbuilt

realista said:


> 1) the SPOT is not defined as a perfect CIRCLE.... but seems to have 4 corners. it is not a very visible( i think 5 person on 100 could see it but i am one of those)


I have seen things like that before - it probably is a result of the precise depth placement of the reflector, picking up certain reflections off the mount/die. Usually nothing you can do about it on any given sample. :shrug: FYI, this is one of the original "advantages" of textured reflectors - to help smooth out beam distortions of all types. With smooth reflectors, you always run the risk that a slight misalignment can cause visual effects.



> 2) the light temperature ( color) is not so cold as expected to be. I read the same thing on a review on amazon. The tint is more on the warm side of light....... it is still "cold" ....but one of the least cold light i think.


Yes, I've seen this reported as well - I wonder if some are not receiving neutral white emitters? Do you have any neutral white to compare?

But tints really are continuous - it is an arbitrary distinction between what separates cool from neutral white (i.e., one tint bin on either side of the divide will look very similar - but be labelled differently).


----------



## BWX

realista said:


> so, these kind of flashlight are the best hand's friend for the winter season.......i will not need to wear gloves with this XD (1min left hand, 1 min right hand, 1 min left... ahaha )
> however... selfbuild i noticed 2 things about the light:
> 
> 1) the SPOT is not defined as a perfect CIRCLE.... but seems to have 4 corners. it is not a very visible( i think 5 person on 100 could see it but i am one of those) thing but i noticed it rotating the ligght. this is the example of what i mean for the central spot(not the spill). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ApDuvU-bv...AAE28/SVJ99ANy_rY/s1600/stencil-girandola.jpg
> 
> 2) the light temperature ( color) is not so cold as expected to be. I read the same thing on a review on amazon. The tint is more on the warm side of light....... it is still "cold" ....but one of the least cold light i think.



Compared to my CW SC600 MK1 B XM-L, this CW TN12 2014 is cooler. Of course there are always variations, but I have two samples of the TN12 to compare, and they were purchased months apart, and the tint is very much the same. It isn't bad, but not on the NW side of the spectrum to my eyes. Smack dab in the middle of CW I think.


----------



## realista

i am sure i did not receive the neutral white. i saw some pictures about neutral light and they are so much yellow. 
in my opinion it is wrong to call all neutral white flashlight...... NEUTRAL. that colors are not neutral!!! the real neutral is pure white... like snow. like a blank wall.

however, i like the color of this tn12 2014 , between cold and warm. but i am sure the perceived light to my eye could have been increased if only it was more cooler.


----------



## realista

i would not be boring but...........do exist an extender tube for this flashlight?
assuming that at higher voltage the driver should be more efficient... i think that with 2x 18650 the runtime would theorically be not 200% but 210/220%.

am i stupid to ask this?


----------



## Overclocker

realista said:


> i would not be boring but...........do exist an extender tube for this flashlight?
> assuming that at higher voltage the driver should be more efficient... i think that with 2x 18650 the runtime would theorically be not 200% but 210/220%.
> 
> am i stupid to ask this?




i'm not so sure about efficiency gains but regulation would be GREATLY improved because regulation is pretty much non-existent on 1x 18650:







i used to run extenders on my thrunite T30. might have compatible threads. 

consider running two 18500 cells (like KeepPower 18500, sanyo UR18500). overall shorter package than 2x 18650


----------



## selfbuilt

realista said:


> i would not be boring but...........do exist an extender tube for this flashlight?
> assuming that at higher voltage the driver should be more efficient... i think that with 2x 18650 the runtime would theorically be not 200% but 210/220%.





Overclocker said:


> i'm not so sure about efficiency gains but regulation would be GREATLY improved because regulation is pretty much non-existent on 1x 18650:


I have no idea if a battery extender exists for this light - I recommend you contact Thrunite.

But as Overclocker said, the regulation pattern is completely different on 2x Li-ion sources compared to 1x. You could expect the proportional increase in runtime based on capacity over the 2xRCR run, assuming some sort of battery tube extender was available.


----------



## Santa Fe

If you have a chance to specify your tint you should look at this first.

http://illuminationgear.com/COOL-or-NEUTRAL-TINT-LED_c18.htm


----------



## selfbuilt

Santa Fe said:


> If you have a chance to specify your tint you should look at this first.


Yes, but you need to keep in mind the limitations of using a single common camera white balance for those sorts of pics. Depending on what they picked for the camera, the comparisons are bound to look a little different (i.e, I'm guessing they used a so-called "daylight" ~5300K white balance).


----------



## avion

Santa Fe said:


> If you have a chance to specify your tint you should look at this first.
> 
> http://illuminationgear.com/COOL-or-NEUTRAL-TINT-LED_c18.htm


For sure the white balance could changes the real tint, but I agree with the autor of the link about the use of cool and neutral/warm tints. I have both the TN12 versions (CW and NW) and living on a hill, nera a wood, I use a lot the NW.

Ciao (sorry for my english)


----------



## Chicken Drumstick

Sorry if this has been covered already (haven't had chance to read all the replies).

But what is the tint like on this light?

Specifically on high and when on low.


I ask, as almost all of my so called "premium" lights have very poor tint compared to many of my "budget" lights. And usually premium lights are so much more hassle to take apart.


Was this review the NW or the CW version? And importantly what is the CRI like on either of them? My Klarus and Olights are f'ing dreadful and quite horrible to use outside in the fields.


----------



## cagenuts

Not sure about the CRI but I found the NW pretty decent outside whilst the CW was perceptually brighter.

I would buy the NW again.


----------



## selfbuilt

Chicken Drumstick said:


> But what is the tint like on this light? ... Was this review the NW or the CW version? And importantly what is the CRI like on either of them?


This review was of the CW version. Note that there is no guarantee of a "premium tint" on the "premium lights", unless they specify a tint bin (which they typically don't). There is a fairly substantial tint range in every emitter color temp class, and no guarantees as to what one sample will look like compared to another. My sample was within a normal range, I didn't notice a significant tint shift on the lower levels on this light (at least, not beyond what is typically for current-controlled lights).

As for CRI, that is just a function of the specific emitter and color temp class. NW will always be a bit higher than CW. At the end of the day though, it is really a question of personal color temp preference.


----------



## mattjberry

I have this torch. Really happy with it. It puts out a very good amount of light for its small size.
I love the click button on the side to switch between modes. It's fantastic.
I initially got this torch for my dad to mount on his rifle for hunting, however it doesn't throw quite well enough for that so I kept it. However it does flood very well.

5 out of 5 from me!


----------



## Rick_R

mattjberry said:


> I have this torch. Really happy with it. It puts out a very good amount of light for its small size.
> I initially got this torch for my dad to mount on his rifle for hunting, however it doesn't throw quite well enough for that so I kept it. However it does flood very well.
> 
> Sounds like the ArmyTek Predator 2.5, XP-G2 R5, Regular or Pro would be a good choice for your dad.
> I'm going to try this light on one of my AR"s, and see how it holds up. Just haveto make spacer for the mount, as the body is under 1in.


----------



## realista

just little question. in the official site page, i see runtimes. but it is not written wich kind of battery did they use.


----------



## selfbuilt

realista said:


> just little question. in the official site page, i see runtimes. but it is not written wich kind of battery did they use.


You would have to ask Thrunite to find out. But as always, I recommend people rely on independent third-party runtime data for all lights (especially the graphical comparisons over time).


----------



## realista

They replied to me. A 2600mah


----------



## JohnnyGalaga

With a 18650 on high, will this light stay continuous at 800 lumens, or does it automatically step itself down after 200 seconds?


----------



## Nightflash

JohnnyGalaga said:


> With a 18650 on high, will this light stay continuous at 800 lumens, or does it automatically step itself down after 200 seconds?


Not a direct answer to Your question but as it gets quite hot on max-max I always step it down to max except for some short bursts, visibly the difference is really minor and it saves battery-life. My general verdict would be it´s an amazing light for what it costs but in direct comparison I would always prefer my meanwhile favourite infinite variable Allrounder Nitecore SRT5 (pricewise more than double, but it costs only once


----------



## selfbuilt

JohnnyGalaga said:


> With a 18650 on high, will this light stay continuous at 800 lumens, or does it automatically step itself down after 200 seconds?


Check out the runtimes in the review. It does not step down, but output will drop continuously on max. It is basically one or the other, given the characteristics of a single 18650 source.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

Based on this review and some other recommendations, i finally bought this light. There is something i noticed (or didn't) about the modes though. When i go through the modes, it seems that there is absolutely no discernible difference between last two 800 & 1050 lumen modes. Could my TN12 just have a single high mode of 800? Or is the difference just so miniscule that my eyes cannot detect it? I click the mode switch button after i'm in the 800 lumen mode, but don't notice any bump in brightness in the 1050 lumen mode. I click it again and i'm back at firefly.


----------



## JohnnyGalaga

selfbuilt said:


> Check out the runtimes in the review. It does not step down, but output will drop continuously on max. It is basically one or the other, given the characteristics of a single 18650 source.



The y-axis on the graphs go up to like 220 - 260, but I thought the light was rated for 1,050 lumens? How would I interpret the graphs?


----------



## JohnnyGalaga

Does anyone know of any good sellers that have this light in stock? I Can't seem to find anything online.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

For those of you who have the neutral version, does it say on the light itself that it is the TN12 2014 Neutral? I bought one, but it wasn't specified if it was the regular cool or neutral so i'm just a little curious as to how i can tell.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

You can buy it directly from them @ their website: http://www.thrunite.com/. They're in stock as of me typing this.


----------



## JohnnyGalaga

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> You can buy it directly from them @ their website: http://www.thrunite.com/. They're in stock as of me typing this.



I see on their website, it says "Expected release date is 1st Nov 2014". Earlier, I think it said October 8th, or something.


----------



## selfbuilt

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> When i go through the modes, it seems that there is absolutely no discernible difference between last two 800 & 1050 lumen modes. Could my TN12 just have a single high mode of 800? Or is the difference just so miniscule that my eyes cannot detect it? I click the mode switch button after i'm in the 800 lumen mode, but don't notice any bump in brightness in the 1050 lumen mode. I click it again and i'm back at firefly.


What kind of batteries are you using, and are they fully charged? The difference is not great (given how non-linearly we perceive light), but you should see a slight bump when using fresh cells.



JohnnyGalaga said:


> The y-axis on the graphs go up to like 220 - 260, but I thought the light was rated for 1,050 lumens? How would I interpret the graphs?


The y-axis is the arbitrary relative output scale of my lightbox. My lumen estimates are based on these, and provided in the tables in the review. To learn how to convert my ROV measures into estimated lumens, follow the link in description of the testing method (here).


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

I'm using a Keeppower 18650 3400 mAh cell. The cell isn't fresh. When i received my TN12 in the mail today, i just took the keeppower from another light and dropped it into my TN12. Last i checked it, it was about ~3.95V. That's too bad that it can't do the 1050 lumens w/o a fresh cell. I guess it's a safeguard of sorts to prevent damage to the 18650?


----------



## selfbuilt

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Last i checked it, it was about ~3.95V. That's too bad that it can't do the 1050 lumens w/o a fresh cell. I guess it's a safeguard of sorts to prevent damage to the 18650?


No, it's just that the light is basically direct-drive on it's Turbo mode. So it the cell it not nearly fully charged, you would not be able to obtain anything above the fully regulated Hi level.


----------



## cagenuts

selfbuilt said:


> No, it's just that the light is basically direct-drive on it's Turbo mode.



Are most lights like this selfbuilt?


----------



## selfbuilt

cagenuts said:


> Are most lights like this selfbuilt?


Frankly, yes - for these sorts of max outputs on 1x18650. It is not always so obvious, since most heavily-driven lights in this class have a step-down feature within 2-5 mins after activation. But if you look at the runtime plots, you will see that most of the comparator lights do the same thing (up to the step-down point, that is). I would need to do repeated re-starts on the step-down competition to see how they truly compare, but I would expect a generally similar response. 

Note that newer higher capacity 18650 batteries (like the Keeppower 3100mAh and 3400mAh) are typically able to retain a bit of regulated output for at at least a few mins. I plan to start adding these to upcoming reviews, but haven't had a chance yet to go back to try in the TN12-2014.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

Thanks for the quick responses & though it's a little late, I just wanted to say a big THANK YOU for another great review. I always enjoy your reviews and we are privileged to have such in-depth, informative and well-written reviews on which to make our decisions.


----------



## cagenuts

selfbuilt said:


> Frankly, yes - for these sorts of max outputs on 1x18650.


Thanks man!


----------



## DaGlitch

Great review! This is the review that made me go out and grab this light. Haven't been more happy!


----------



## Blueman

I have had 2 different TN 12‘s.... both after being dropped, one from my back pocket, to the ground. The other from a lanyard on it getting caught on a passing set of jumper cables and being thrown over 25ft across the parking lot, both had broken inside the head of the light. They replaced the first, but the question being, is this a weak spot that can be fixed? Or, does this breaking spot maintain a weak point for the light? And, is it worth sending back to be fixed, or just get another?


----------



## D6859

Blueman said:


> I have had 2 different TN 12‘s.... both after being dropped, one from my back pocket, to the ground. The other from a lanyard on it getting caught on a passing set of jumper cables and being thrown over 25ft across the parking lot, both had broken inside the head of the light.



Bad luck! I dropped mine while riding a bike. The light hit on the turning wheel, jumped up to 6 feet high in the air and landed on asphalt. I was sure it had broken, but fortunately, all I noticed were some scratches in the light. Still happy owner 

The first case sounds like it should have survived the drop, but in the second case I'm afraid no light is meant to survive such a long throw. I think you should contac Thrunite and ask them, though.


----------



## zs&tas

that is bad luck, i would ask them though as after going across the parking lot it would have hit the deck at an angle to slide along a bit too, it should have survived that horizontal fall (?) it wasnt a 25ft hard drop !


----------



## Blueman

The 1st was only butt high drop..... so they QUICKLY replaced it.... the 2nd.... lol..... (no way they SHOULD). Great light all the same. But, my question was geared toward the folks who like to handle the lights and disassemble them. Should the head of the light be so easily broken?? Can this part be easily fixed/reinforced to prevent the breakage here?


----------



## selfbuilt

selfbuilt said:


> Note that newer higher capacity 18650 batteries (like the Keeppower 3100mAh and 3400mAh) are typically able to retain a bit of regulated output for at at least a few mins. I plan to start adding these to upcoming reviews, but haven't had a chance yet to go back to try in the TN12-2014.


I thought I would update this thread with a comparison of various recent lights on the Keeppower 3100mAh cells (NCR18650A cores):







As you can see, the TN12 for 2014 can indeed maintain a relatively flat level of output on Turbo for about ~7 mins or so, before it starts to drop off in the typical direct-drive-like pattern. This is certainly an improvement over the 2200mAh cells used previously. :wave:



Blueman said:


> The 1st was only butt high drop..... so they QUICKLY replaced it.... the 2nd.... lol..... (no way they SHOULD). Great light all the same. But, my question was geared toward the folks who like to handle the lights and disassemble them. Should the head of the light be so easily broken?? Can this part be easily fixed/reinforced to prevent the breakage here?


It's a good question. I'm not sure how you get the head open to access the circuit internals of the pill (especially given the side switch). But if you could, potting the electronics should make the light a lot more "positionally stable." I believe an old poor-man's potting trick was to use a hot glue gun around the circuit internals, and quickly re-assemble inside the light. The folks in the modders forum could probably help you out here (assuming someone has a non-destructive way of getting the head open.


----------



## LAtraffic

Being as a just lost my Nitecore P10, and my gf wants a similar flashlight its time to get another. I really appreciate all the in depth reviews you give. I may have to get the Fenix PD35 just to try something different.


----------



## thegaunlet

Nightflash said:


> Not a direct answer to Your question but as it gets quite hot on max-max I always step it down to max except for some short bursts, visibly the difference is really minor and it saves battery-life. My general verdict would be it´s an amazing light for what it costs but in direct comparison I would always prefer my meanwhile favourite infinite variable Allrounder Nitecore SRT5 (pricewise more than double, but it costs only once




Hi-5! The SRT5 is my favorite light too! Great UI and it is seems pretty tough. 750 lumens is OK because it'll run for over 2 hrs on a 3400mAh battery. Felt like getting another. They say "Two is One, One is None" remember


----------



## mpett1

Just picked one up. Love the light but my one change would be a tighter beam. I like a lot of throw on my lights and this light has to much flood.


----------



## mpett1

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Based on this review and some other recommendations, i finally bought this light. There is something i noticed (or didn't) about the modes though. When i go through the modes, it seems that there is absolutely no discernible difference between last two 800 & 1050 lumen modes. Could my TN12 just have a single high mode of 800? Or is the difference just so miniscule that my eyes cannot detect it? I click the mode switch button after i'm in the 800 lumen mode, but don't notice any bump in brightness in the 1050 lumen mode. I click it again and i'm back at firefly.



I have a few cells that I have tried this light with and I can only get the turbo mode with protected cells. It will not go any higher on regular 18650's


----------



## selfbuilt

mpett1 said:


> Just picked one up. Love the light but my one change would be a tighter beam. I like a lot of throw on my lights and this light has to much flood.


That's a function of the size of the head (and reflector). Something like the larger TN11 (or newer TN11S) should give more throw, although I haven't tested the latest version of that series. Interface would be different, of course.


----------



## bdogps

I have one of these, but I have noticed that it heats up pretty quick on high level. Then the heat transfers to the tube and battery as well. Does this pose a risk to the battery? Thanks


----------



## selfbuilt

bdogps said:


> I have one of these, but I have noticed that it heats up pretty quick on high level. Then the heat transfers to the tube and battery as well. Does this pose a risk to the battery? Thanks


Yes, the TN12 is driven very hard on max, so it will heat up fast. Li-ion should be able to handle this pretty well, it is really only with primary CR123A that I would have a concern. You may find that the sustained high heat on max triggers the PTC protection feature on some brands (especially made-in-the-USA ones). See my battery round-up here for a discussion. 

I would definitely recommend quality USA brands if you wanted to use CR123A in the light. And of course, quality protected Li-ions as well (i.e., no xxxxfire 18650).


----------



## bdogps

*Thrunite TN12 2014 (XM-L2, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIME...*



selfbuilt said:


> Yes, the TN12 is driven very hard on max, so it will heat up fast. Li-ion should be able to handle this pretty well, it is really only with primary CR123A that I would have a concern. You may find that the sustained high heat on max triggers the PTC protection feature on some brands (especially made-in-the-USA ones). See my battery round-up here for a discussion.
> 
> I would definitely recommend quality USA brands if you wanted to use CR123A in the light. And of course, quality protected Li-ions as well (i.e., no xxxxfire 18650).



No problem. Thanks mate. I was using the nitecore 2300 mAh battery.


----------



## DocBurN

selfbuilt said:


> I would definitely recommend quality USA brands if you wanted to use CR123A in the light. And of course, quality protected Li-ions as well (i.e., no xxxxfire 18650).



Hi guys, i have been reading this forum for ages, lurking in the shadows and decided to finally register.. (you made me buy so many flashlights.. and I still feel i need some more). I got a Thrunite TN12 coming in the mail today.. really sttrugled betwen Tn12, Nitecore P12 and Fenix PD35. 

I was planing on temporary using some 18650s that i had for a few years.. BRC U####Fire 18650 3000mAh.. before i receive some better ones.

1) Is there any chance i can damage the TN12 by using U####Fire brand ? I did not knew it was low qual at the time

2) I was thinking getting XTAR VP1 with 2x PANASONIC NCR18650B 3400MAH.. good idea ? (i want something with a voltage display.. i currently have a simple T####Fire Multifonctional Charger TR-001) 

Thank you for your input, and for all of you who analyse gear and review them for us.

DocBurN


----------



## selfbuilt

DocBurN said:


> I was planing on temporary using some 18650s that i had for a few years.. BRC U####Fire 18650 3000mAh.. before i receive some better ones.
> 1) Is there any chance i can damage the TN12 by using U####Fire brand ? I did not knew it was low qual at the time


No, it won't hurt the TN12. You might not be able to get Turbo output reliably though, depending on the state of those cells. And of course, the capacity measure is likely way over-stated.



> 2) I was thinking getting XTAR VP1 with 2x PANASONIC NCR18650B 3400MAH.. good idea ?


Any battery built around the Panasonic NCR18650B core will be great - but I recommend you buy a brand-name *protected* version. AFAIK, Panasonic does not sell a protected version of their cores (i.e., those green-wrapped Panasonic cells are typically unprotected). Pretty much any brand with a protection circuit will do (again, as long as it is not xxxxfire).

And yes, I am a big fan of the Xtar VP1 (and newer VP2) chargers - either one of those would be fine.

:welcome:


----------



## DocBurN

oh, i thought that Panasonic 18650 were THE best .. automatically assumed it was protected. Thank you for the info

still hunting for the best canadian source for flashlights, Battery and charger.


----------



## Glowrod

Just like Doc, I debated between the ThruNite, Nitecore, and Fenix. Just got my TN12 today. Initial impressions are awesome.:twothumbs

I was surprised to see the difference between Hi and turbo is not that significant to my eyes.:shrug:

Thanks again for all of your reviews, Selfbuilt. I have been reading those a lot since I just recently started delving into all the different kinds of flashlight!


----------



## selfbuilt

DocBurN said:


> oh, i thought that Panasonic 18650 were THE best .. automatically assumed it was protected. Thank you for the info
> still hunting for the best canadian source for flashlights, Battery and charger.


Panasonic are the best cells ... you just need to find a good brand that has bundled them with a protection circuit (i.e., Keeppower, Orbtronic, AW, Olight, Eagletac, Xtar, Nitecore, etc.).

And good luck with finding everything in Canada ... I find I often need to go further afield to get the best deals or widest selection.



Glowrod said:


> I was surprised to see the difference between Hi and turbo is not that significant to my eyes.:shrug:


Yes, it really is not much of a perceptual difference in practice. Certainly, once the cells have lost a little capacity, you really won't see any difference at all.

:welcome:


----------



## DocBurN

selfbuilt said:


> And good luck with finding everything in Canada ... I find I often need to go further afield to get the best deals or widest selection.



I don't prefer to shop in Canada.. everything cost way more usually.. and shipping is not much better. Is there any kind of regulation stopping me from shopping in the USA regarding Batteries, Charger & Flashlight ? (probably not). I ask because of custom laws, for example, i can't order a scope for a rifle in the US, which is kind of stupid..


----------



## mpett1

I am still testing my Tn12. No this will not go into turbo with a xxxxfire plane jane battery. I have better lol xxxxfire protected cells they will do turbo but just a little bump above the 800 lm mid/high mode. I have recently got a better protected cell and wow the light comes to life. I think I am going to go buy a few nitecore 3200 for use in my tn12. I also have a Tn11 coming in the mail as well.


----------



## selfbuilt

DocBurN said:


> I don't prefer to shop in Canada.. everything cost way more usually.. and shipping is not much better. Is there any kind of regulation stopping me from shopping in the USA regarding Batteries, Charger & Flashlight ? (probably not). I ask because of custom laws, for example, i can't order a scope for a rifle in the US, which is kind of stupid..


At worse, you will pay GST and a ~$7 handling charge from Canada Post (a bit more by courier). But typically everything ships here.



mpett1 said:


> I am still testing my Tn12. No this will not go into turbo with a xxxxfire plane jane battery. I have better lol xxxxfire protected cells they will do turbo but just a little bump above the 800 lm mid/high mode. I have recently got a better protected cell and wow the light comes to life. I think I am going to go buy a few nitecore 3200 for use in my tn12. I also have a Tn11 coming in the mail as well.


Yes, those xxxxfires just don't cut it. They are generally vastly over-stated in terms of capacity, and there are a lot of counterfeits and old laptop pulls out there (in shiny new wrappers). With quality cells, you should be able to see the difference between Hi and Turbo (although it is not huge)


----------



## loimpact

I have a question and a suggestion.......

First, why is it that the handheld lights only do "Turbo" modes for such a short period of time before stepping down while the bicycle mounted lights will do "Turbo" for such a long period of time??

Second, to the earlier poster......Don't forget even Thrunite's own 18650 cells. I recently ordered a set of theirs for the specific reason that they hit the trifecta.......A.) Protected, B.) flat top, C.) 3400mah ncr18650b cells. I'm surprised they're not recommended more, especially for single-cell lights and considering the above trifecta is far & few between!


----------



## thedoc007

loimpact said:


> ...why is it that the handheld lights only do "Turbo" modes for such a short period of time before stepping down while the bicycle mounted lights will do "Turbo" for such a long period of time??



If you have a lot of airflow over a light, as you might expect to while biking, it is MUCH easier to dissipate the heat from higher outputs. And that is why handheld lights have step-downs...they would overheat in "normal" conditions without said stepdown.


----------



## loimpact

thedoc007 said:


> If you have a lot of airflow over a light, as you might expect to while biking, it is MUCH easier to dissipate the heat from higher outputs. And that is why handheld lights have step-downs...they would overheat in "normal" conditions without said stepdown.



Granted that makes sense, though a lot of tests on bike lights are of them resting in a room to get the results, so essentially the same. Also granted, the bike lights tend to have better heat-sinking, but nevertheless, they simply seem to do better longer.

One exception (in the case of these single 18650 torches) is the Olight S20. I notice the time output graph gives that light a significant advantage over other lights in its class. The TN12 looks to be impressive at first, but with such a rapid step down and overall drop, I'm not even sure it's worth mentioning its 1050 max lumens unless you have a 4.5 minute task requiring such light.

(Just thinking outloud)


----------



## thedoc007

A lot of people are bothered by stepdowns...I have never understood why. Basically, if most lights didn't have a stepdown, they would have to be driven more conservatively. Honestly I've never NEEDED turbo for more than three minutes...usually I use turbo for a quick check, to get a little more throw, or to show off a light. I just don't see what the fuss is about. If you need sustained runtimes at high drive levels, buy a bigger light!


----------



## loimpact

thedoc007 said:


> A lot of people are bothered by stepdowns...I have never understood why. Basically, if most lights didn't have a stepdown, they would have to be driven more conservatively. Honestly I've never NEEDED turbo for more than three minutes...usually I use turbo for a quick check, to get a little more throw, or to show off a light. I just don't see what the fuss is about. If you need sustained runtimes at high drive levels, buy a bigger light!



I think it's for the same reasons as the bike light community. They want that advertised "max lumens" for a sustained period of time.

Most bike lights will hold their max lumen output for over an hour on 18650 cells.

These handheld/tactical torches do not. They immediately step down, usually followed by another significant step down and then maintain some lumen rating far below what's printed on the front of the box. Sure, folks here know better but people not obsessing as much as us won't & if they investigate, will figure out they're getting anywhere from 60 to 80 percent of the advertised lumens.

My own Fenix BC30 is advertised as an 1800 lumen light, when in fact that rating can ONLY be achieved with the included remote switch and ONLY temporarily. (similar to flashing one's high beams) On the same note, however, its true "Turbo" mode is advertised as 1200 lumens, though measured at 1284 is one of the higher rated "actual" lumen lights. This, however, didn't stop mtbr.com from giving it the 3rd degree for advertising it as an 1800 lumen light.

Perhaps the "understanding" has already reached the masses so they know what to expect. I, for one, felt mislead when I originally read the TN12 was a 1050 lumen light, only to find you won't get that much light for very long. (I had assumed, like most bike lights that it could hold that rating for an hour or more)

Just my $.02


----------



## selfbuilt

loimpact said:


> I, for one, felt mislead when I originally read the TN12 was a 1050 lumen light, only to find you won't get that much light for very long. (I had assumed, like most bike lights that it could hold that rating for an hour or more)


Two immediate points to consider with any stated claim of max output - what is the actual output level, and what is the battery source.

There is no 1x18650 light on the market that can do sustained >1000 lumens for any length of time. The Olight S20 is a great light, but it's max mode is <650 lumens. Similarly, I would accept that a 2x18650 light could probably do the ~1000 lumen level for a reasonably long period. But again, 2x18650 will not do 1800 lumens for any sustained period.

This is why I continue to find actual runtimes graphs to be the most important feature to look at in any flashlight review. Personally, I don't have a problem with a step-down Turbo level (since, by definition, Turbo should be a short-lived mode) - but then you do want a clearly defined Hi level that offers both good output and runtime (i.e., something like the S20 in the example above).


----------



## InspectHerGadget

selfbuilt said:


> Two immediate points to consider with any stated claim of max output - what is the actual output level, and what is the battery source.
> 
> There is no 1x18650 light on the market that can do sustained >1000 lumens for any length of time. The Olight S20 is a great light, but it's max mode is <650 lumens. Similarly, I would accept that a 2x18650 light could probably do the ~1000 lumen level for a reasonably long period. But again, 2x18650 will not do 1800 lumens for any sustained period.
> 
> This is why I continue to find actual runtimes graphs to be the most important feature to look at in any flashlight review. Personally, I don't have a problem with a step-down Turbo level (since, by definition, Turbo should be a short-lived mode) - but then you do want a clearly defined Hi level that offers both good output and runtime (i.e., something like the S20 in the example above).



+1

Not to mention, the drop down in perceived brightness is minimal. Aside from battery performance, the TN12 gets very hot anyway even after stepdown. A very good light though. Mine gets a lot of use.


----------



## bladesmith3

I have several tn12's in several locations. great light for the $


----------



## Flashcop

I now have both the cool white and neutral white TN12's... I tend to like the cool white better. It seems brighter to me where the neutral gives me better color definition but does not seem as bright. I also have the PD-35 and a Power tac E5 That I use mounted on weapons. So out of the four lights I like the TN12 cool white the best.


----------



## CelticCross74

Fenix UC35 FTW. I own this entire class of lights and out of them all the UC35 is the best built with the best beam with the best run times. Must admit the TN12 is phenomenal for the money and I actually like that it has direct drive like regulation one knows exactly what to expect with it. In the end my original "850 lumen" PD35 with a couple of fresh Panasonic CR123's dumped in it is still the brightest out of them all. Find the Fenix PD and UC35 have the best color rendition and Nitecore P12 having the worst with its super cool white beam.


----------



## selfbuilt

Flashcop said:


> So out of the four lights I like the TN12 cool white the best.


Glad you are enjoying it, and :welcome:


----------



## ryan.s

Just got through reading all 9 pages of this thread, a top notch review and great information. Getting ready to place my order for one of these lights. This will be my first 18650 light with a rechargeable battery so I would need to get batteries as well as a charger. This is what I'm planning to include in my order, is there anything else I should consider buying?

TN12 2014 CW
Nitecore D2 Charger
2 pcs KeepPower 3400mAh batteries

Thanks!


----------



## Norm

ryan.s said:


> .This will be my first 18650 light with a rechargeable battery so I would need to get batteries as well as a charger. This is what I'm planning to include in my order, is there anything else I should consider buying?
> 
> TN12 2014 CW
> Nitecore D2 Charger
> 2 pcs KeepPower 3400mAh batteries
> 
> Thanks!



Probably best to ask your question in this thread or here you should find your answers there.


----------



## ryan.s

Norm said:


> Probably best to ask your question in this thread or here you should find your answers there.



Thanks for the links, I'll look into those threads. I've actually already settled on the battery and charger, was just asking if there was anything I was missing in terms of must haves or any cool add-ons for the TN12.


----------



## selfbuilt

ryan.s said:


> This what I'm planning to include in my order, is there anything else I should consider buying?





Norm said:


> Probably best to ask your question in this thread or here you should find your answers there.


Good threads Norm, thanks for the links here.

And :welcome: ryan.s


----------



## ryan.s

selfbuilt said:


> And :welcome: ryan.s



Thanks selfbuilt, I'm new to flashlights and the forum but have a feeling I'm gonna get addicted pretty easily. BTW, great youtube channel, a lot of great information.


----------



## D6859

ryan.s said:


> Just got through reading all 9 pages of this thread, a top notch review and great information. Getting ready to place my order for one of these lights. This will be my first 18650 light with a rechargeable battery so I would need to get batteries as well as a charger. This is what I'm planning to include in my order, is there anything else I should consider buying?
> 
> TN12 2014 CW
> Nitecore D2 Charger
> 2 pcs KeepPower 3400mAh batteries
> 
> Thanks!



I ordered 2 x 3400 mAh Keeppowers with my TN12. I've been really satisfied. I'm about to order more 18650's and I'm considering 3200 mAh version. They're cheaper and the difference is only 200 mAh (idk if there's any difference in chemistry or anything). Note that Selfbuilt has done his reviews with a battery which has a lot lower capacity than either of mentioned. I expect you will be satisfied with Keeppower.


----------



## ElBee

I'm new here, and before I do anything else, I want to thank selfbuilt for the excellent reviews. 

I purchased an TN12 2014, and unfortunately I had the exact experience Blueman posted a few pages back. The clip of the light snagged on a pliers I pulled out of my front pocket and the TN12 hit the basement floor, which is unfinished cement. It had a serious rattle, and after turning it on, it briefly lit and then faded out. That was the end for the TN 12. I had no luck in getting any help from Thrunite--never even got a reply, so I moved on and got the Nitecore P12 which was also on my list. I know these lights aren't built for abuse, but I was disappointed it didn't survive one relatively short fall. I only had it 2 days. Live and learn.


----------



## selfbuilt

Sorry to hear about your experience with the TN12.

:welcome:


----------



## ElBee

Hi Selfbuilt. 

I know it happens sometimes. The P12 is very close to the TN12,so it's all good. I found out the side switch is not my favorite interface. I think if I used it every day I'd get used to it, but I still have trouble keep the light orientated so the button is where I can use it. Clicky is good, and I've learned to like twisty for little lights.


----------



## IamSchuess

I've had my TN12 for 60 days now and have had ZERO issues! I use it daily and still on the 1st set of batteries (Duracell 123Lithium). I use the firefly/moonlight setting more than I anticipated, and the Turbo/Max mode less often. Low typically has enough power for everyday use. 

Thank you to Selfbuilt for all of the reviews, especially this one- it was dead on!


----------



## selfbuilt

IamSchuess said:


> I use the firefly/moonlight setting more than I anticipated, and the Turbo/Max mode less often. Low typically has enough power for everyday use.


Thanks for sharing your experience. 

:welcome:


----------



## D6859

IamSchuess said:


> I use the firefly/moonlight setting more than I anticipated, and the Turbo/Max mode less often. Low typically has enough power for everyday use.



I EDC mine with the 280 lm mode selected. That is usually enough for my needs. If I need lower level, I can hold the head against my palm and change the level without loosing my nightvision.


----------



## davehutch

Hi selfbuilt, I'm trying to make sense of your graphs and notice that the Medium runtime doesn't quite make sense to me. It seems that the Medium output is completely flat until just about 8.5 hours or 511 minutes, but you say it's only 6.5 hours.
Could you confirm please and also what would you expect with a 3400mAh battery instead of the 2200mAh?


----------



## selfbuilt

davehutch said:


> Hi selfbuilt, I'm trying to make sense of your graphs and notice that the Medium runtime doesn't quite make sense to me. It seems that the Medium output is completely flat until just about 8.5 hours or 511 minutes, but you say it's only 6.5 hours.
> Could you confirm please and also what would you expect with a 3400mAh battery instead of the 2200mAh?


Sorry, that was typo - it should have read 8hr 33mins. Figure legend has just been corrected.

I have not repeated the test on 3100mAh, but I would expert a proportionate increase to the rated capacity change (i.e., about 12 hours).


----------



## davehutch

Thanks for confirming. That might well have persuaded me to get one!


----------



## davehutch

Apologies, but I have another question. Your runtime graph shows the Hi2C mode for the ZL SC600 and the Med mode of the TN12 as having very similar run times, and shows the ZL output as being about 33% higher.
However, the Hi2C mode of the ZL is estimated at 175 lumens whilst the Med mode of the TN is actually much higher at an estimated 330 Lumens. 
I'm confused.


----------



## selfbuilt

davehutch said:


> Apologies, but I have another question. Your runtime graph shows the Hi2C mode for the ZL SC600 and the Med mode of the TN12 as having very similar run times, and shows the ZL output as being about 33% higher.
> However, the Hi2C mode of the ZL is estimated at 175 lumens whilst the Med mode of the TN is actually much higher at an estimated 330 Lumens.
> I'm confused.


 Because I screwed up. :shakehead

It looks like the 2200mAh 18650 graphs are mistakenly showing the original TN12 Med mode runtime, not the TN12-2014. I'm SOOOO sorry about this - can't believe it I didn't notice it earlier. The actual TN12-2014 output is about twice as high (with half the runtime) on Med. :sigh:

I will re-generate the graphs and post them here later today.


----------



## davehutch

Thanks so much. I've been scratching my head for ages over this one


----------



## thedoc007

selfbuilt said:


> Because I screwed up. :shakehead
> 
> It looks like the 2200mAh 18650 graphs are mistakenly showing the original TN12 Med mode runtime, not the TN12-2014. I'm SOOOO sorry about this - can't believe it I didn't notice it earlier. The actual TN12-2014 output is about twice as high (with half the runtime) on Med. :sigh:
> 
> I will re-generate the graphs and post them here later today.



I read many of your reviews (and use them as the default go-to reference guide, when questions come up). I've tried my hand at a couple amateur reviews, and found even the basics to be a lot more work than I expected. With that in mind, I think we can forgive a minor error here or there. Your work is the gold standard, and I really appreciate the accuracy and thoroughness of your write-ups! :rock::rock:


----------



## selfbuilt

Ok, here are the corrected graphs:












As you can see, performance is still comparable to the ZL SC600-II, only at a different output level.


----------



## scs

This is waterproof testing of a different sort, @ 44:42


----------



## InspectHerGadget

I've been back and forth with Thrunite over my TN12 going into strobe with no particular pattern noted. It can go fine for a while then not.

I did the swapping batteries, cleaning and reassembling the tail switch but to no avail. It seems to be an issue that involves the side switch or other electronics.

The problem is I live in Australia and I have to not only ship it to China (along with an address label part of which is Chinese), which I pay for, but also they expect me to pay the return postage.

Is this normal, expected?

It is going in the bin. Unfortunately, my Lenser P5R.2 is more than capable of doing what I want and the value of a 5 year iron clad Australian warranty is now much more appealing!


----------



## thedoc007

InspectHerGadget said:


> The problem is I live in Australia and I have to not only ship it to China (along with an address label part of which is Chinese), which I pay for, but also they expect me to pay the return postage.
> 
> Is this normal, expected?



Paying for shipping to them is fairly normal, but both ways is definitely not.

I'd post in the thread below about your issue...I'd be surprised if they don't take care of you.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?398071-your-experiences-for-ThruNite


----------



## InspectHerGadget

Looks like that thread has been closed unfortunately.


----------



## thedoc007

InspectHerGadget said:


> Looks like that thread has been closed unfortunately.



I see...hadn't noticed that before. Still, you should be able to PM David directly.


----------



## InspectHerGadget

It's OK.

The email from them made me think I paid the mail costs both ways but it is just the return to them I pay. I think that is fair enough. I'll mail it off to them. It will take quite a while to get it back but I can wait.

They clarified it when I complained.


----------



## fatfingers

Excellent review. This makes me feel good about having bought one as my first 18650 torch.


----------



## Ratmick

After a bit of research and a lot of reading on this Forum bought myself of these.

I have a couple of LED Lensers, a P7 and a P7.2, but they're in use by my kids (we live on a rural property). 

This one is roughly the same price but in a league of its own.

Loaded it up with a BLAZAR NCRB3400 18650, plus bought a Soshine S2 Fast charger...so I'm thinking I'm all ready to rock.

Anyway thanks for the review!


----------



## selfbuilt

Ratmick said:


> I have a couple of LED Lensers, a P7 and a P7.2, but they're in use by my kids (we live on a rural property).
> This one is roughly the same price but in a league of its own.


Yes, the TN12 is a very nice light for the price. The LED Lensers get a bad rap here, but they aren't bad lights in my experience. Main issue is that they are typically a little (to a lot) over-priced for what you are getting, depending on the model.

Incidentally, I just posted a review of the new Archer series from the Thrunite. The 2C is very similar to the TN12 in interface, though lacking the extreme "Turbo" mode (although that doesn't matter much, since the 2C Hi mode is pretty close). The 2C sample I reviewed was still a prototype for that one, but I imagine this will make choosing between the TN12 and Archer 2C interesting for people.

And :welcome:


----------



## NoelC

Impressions from a long-time LED flashlight user... My experience goes back to a Fenix P 10 AA model with a MillerMods replacement head, which still works.

10 months ago I bought a ThruNite TN12 (2014 edition) for every day carry. I got the neutral-white model, which gave quite a warm colored light. I liked how well the warmer color allows me to see - it just feels natural.

It's the brightest flashlight I've ever had. For me the 1050 lumen setting is brighter than needed for most uses (almost hard to imagine something could be TOO bright, but this is daily experience talking). I have thus chosen to leave it on the 280 lumen setting. It's nice because the mode is sticky - i.e., it stays set across power cycles. 18650 battery life is quite good - weeks of on-demand use on 280 lumens and with brief runs at a higher power (great for spotting spider webs on night walks).

I've found that if the battery isn't reasonably fresh the brightness difference between the 800 lumen and 1050 lumen mode goes away (i.e., it doesn't get any brighter on switching from high to turbo). Seems reasonable, and frankly 800 lumens is still virtually always enough. It compares favorably to a car headlight.

My TN12 served me well, never faltering, until early Easter morning, when I fumbled it and dropped it on concrete from pocket level. Something in the head began to rattle and the light stopped working.

I contacted ThruNite and they eMailed me back with a note that said "send it in for replacement, a drop from pocket level shouldn't break it". About $4 postage. I've already gotten another one. Sure feels good to have a great EDC pocket light again. I really didn't expect it to be replaced. Seems like a good company that stands behind their products.

I noticed my newest one has a slightly less warm color than the older one did. This one compares reasonably closely to early afternoon sunlight, with the TN12 being ever so slightly more yellow than the sunlight.

I've gone ahead and bought several more to be gifts.

-Noel


----------



## InspectHerGadget

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, the TN12 is a very nice light for the price. The LED Lensers get a bad rap here, but they aren't bad lights in my experience. Main issue is that they are typically a little (to a lot) over-priced for what you are getting, depending on the model
> 
> And :welcome:



I am waiting for the repair on my TN-12. I think ThruNite make great products.

I also have the Lenser Headlamp the H14R.2 and their AA light the P5R.2. They are expensive but they are great lights, well built and the focussing head is very practical in use. They also have a pretty well no questions five year warranty here in Australia. If you pay more, it is probably worth it. I think upon this especially as I had to ship my TN-12 back to China and will wait probably six weeks or so before I get it back.


----------



## scs

NoelC said:


> ...
> 
> I contacted ThruNite and they eMailed me back with a note that said "send it in for replacement, a drop from pocket level shouldn't break it". About $4 postage. I've already gotten another one. ...



Based on the way I interpret their current guarantee, Thrunite should have paid for your postage.


----------



## Danny soo

martinaee said:


> He noted that some long 18650's are tight. Can someone recommend "shorter" 18650's? Also this light has momentary, right? I didn't see that mentioned, but probably just missed it.




No hiden mode or sos on Tn12 2014?


----------



## timsatx

Normally my use of flashlights are fairly limited. I may use them everyday but for only very short periods of time. I usually change out my battery once a week and it takes no time to charge.

This last weekend was different. I was installing a ceiling fan with a light and changing out the single bad dimmer switch with a new dimmer switch and a ceiling fan control/dimmer switch combo. It ended up that I had to turn off all the power to the front room and even in the daylight it is fairly dark. I was trying to figure out how to get more light when it hit me that I had my TN12. I put it on the 3rd setting for 280lm and set it on top of the wall heater by the switch pointing it up to the ceiling for some bounce. Man, it worked great. It gave me pretty much all the light I needed. I also took it with me up to the attic along with my Mini 123. I would set the Mini 123 horizontally (it has more flood) to give me some overall general light and use the TN12 for work specific light.

Our attic has a pretty low roof so that is why I needed that. I had to crawl over to the where the wiring for the switch came in and work with it. It ended up that I had to do some fancy wiring and it took me to the next day because the attic was just too dang hot by the afternoon. In all I would say that the light had to have been on at least 5 hours on setting 3 and then add in the climbing around in the attic with it at a lower setting. I was afraid it was going to die before I could finish but it just kept on going. I swapped out the batteries this morning (my charger is at work) and so far it has been charging for the last 2.5 hours. I suspect I was close to losing power but it still stayed bright. I did notice that I was unable to go to turbo mode last night and was afraid at first that maybe the light had lost that mode, but when I replaced the battery with a fully charged one it worked just fine, so all is well with the world.

So far I am extremely happy with my TN12 purchase. I think Thrunite has some of the best valued flashlights out there and plan on buying a smaller AA flashlight, along with a knife, for my son-in-law for Christmas.

I just wanted to add that I am using Panasonic NCR18650B @ 3400mAh batteries.


----------



## ololo

hello,
standby battery drain - in this flashlight is present?(Thrunite TN12 2014)


----------



## selfbuilt

ololo said:


> standby battery drain - in this flashlight is present?(Thrunite TN12 2014)


No, there is a no standby drain, because the light uses a physical clicky switch in the tail to control on/off.

:welcome:


----------



## ololo

thank you


----------



## uofaengr

Does this light have any undervoltage protection? I apologize if I've missed something.


----------



## selfbuilt

uofaengr said:


> Does this light have any undervoltage protection? I apologize if I've missed something.


Not that I am aware of. I didn't see any evidence of one in the runtimes, and I'm sure they would advertise that feature if it had it.


----------



## uofaengr

selfbuilt said:


> Not that I am aware of. I didn't see any evidence of one in the runtimes, and I'm sure they would advertise that feature if it had it.


Thanks for the reply. [emoji106]


----------



## kiwikane

Has anyone De-Domed their TN12? Or for that matter know how to take out the pill? Sorry if it's already been stated in this thread and I've missed it.


----------



## tops2

I'm late to the party but just picked up my first 18650 light (along with the batteries of course). The TN12 is on sale at Illumin for only $30 (almost down the street from where I work) so I figured why not at this price. Too bad the pair of batteries costs the same as the light. But now I finally have some 18650 so I have more light options in the future! ;-)

I'm not even at home yet but in the office, this light is bright from quick testing! The size is good to me (not too small and not too large). I can't wait to get home and wait till it gets dark to try the light out!

I'm coming from a Fenix E12 so this light is a much powerful upgrade. I like the E12 a lot initially, but I was quickly disappointed when I used it for a night walk outside.

Too bad I didn't notice the sale on the TN12 earlier. I already ordered the Zebralight SC5W this morning and it already shipped by the time I saw this light.


----------



## uofaengr

tops2 said:


> I'm late to the party but just picked up my first 18650 light (along with the batteries of course). The TN12 is on sale at Illumin for only $30 (almost down the street from where I work) so I figured why not at this price. Too bad the pair of batteries costs the same as the light. But now I finally have some 18650 so I have more light options in the future! ;-)
> 
> I'm not even at home yet but in the office, this light is bright from quick testing! The size is good to me (not too small and not too large). I can't wait to get home and wait till it gets dark to try the light out!
> 
> I'm coming from a Fenix E12 so this light is a much powerful upgrade. I like the E12 a lot initially, but I was quickly disappointed when I used it for a night walk outside.
> 
> Too bad I didn't notice the sale on the TN12 earlier. I already ordered the Zebralight SC5W this morning and it already shipped by the time I saw this light.


You bought two dern good lights today. The TN12 at $30 is a steal.


----------



## tops2

uofaengr said:


> You bought two dern good lights today. The TN12 at $30 is a steal.



Now when I checked Illumin, all sold out! After I bought it yesterday, there were 4 left. Good thing I didn't decide to wait!

But took the light out for a midnight stroll for fun after fully charging the new batteries...and boy do I love this light! It did what I wanted from a light. On low, it's dim enough to not blind me. On high...boy it's bright. The brightness combined from the good spill/flood (?), in my opinion, is what I love. When walking around, it lights up everything in a good area instead of just a tight, small area.

The different levels are pretty good to me (even though I don't see myself using the turbo level much). If prefer if I long press the mode button that it bring me to the firefly level as I won't use the strobe mode at all...but that's just being nitpicking.

The only thing I'm getting used to is the neutral white, since it's my first one. The "yellowish" tint makes the light seem not as bright. But the colors is nice and not cold. I think I'm just not used to neutral white yet.


Any ways, my journey to look for the first real lights started beginning of November. I'm glad Illumin had a good sale on the TN12, which made me just decide to finally try a 18650 light. Now a whole new category of lights are opened to me instead of sticking only with AA and AAA lights. Now I have a Fenix E12, 2 Nitecore Tubes, 1 Rayus C01, returning one defective light, a Thrunite TN12, and finally a Zebralight SC5w (coming in the mail). Of course also ended up getting 2x 18650 batteries and the Nitecore D4 charger. Right now after the TN12, I feel completely satisfied and hopefully I won't get more lights...for now... ;-)


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## staticaz

Great review, I have had one of these for about 9 months now in Cool White, very dependable, good run times, nice beam, use it daily and have had Zero problems.


If anyone is having problems finding one.....try Thrunite direct....looks like now have the 2016 model.

http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-tn12-2016-cool-white/


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## BrightLignt

Does anyone know how to open the head? Is it glued?


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## mikec49

Very nice review. I just ordered the 2016 model. My only other led is a fenix ld20 double A. I use eneloop in it. It's 10 plus years old going strong.


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