# Mag 6D > 64623 upgrade



## SR910 (Dec 21, 2006)

Hi everyone, as I have seen there seems to be alot of interest with Mac's customs now that the video of his lights setting fire to paper has circulated around the internet.

Well it got me interested as I was using my 6D mag light the other night and thought to my self, "man this light is really pretty crappy hey".

With a bit of probing around the net I quickly found you guys. I read quite a few threads about modifying mags and im very keen to give this a go. My problem comes as I live in Australia, not many flashlight modifying places around here. So looks like ill be getting some stuff off the net.

I already have my donor 6D mag light.

Now from what i have read i need:

-52.1mm Borofloat Lens for Mag C & D Size Flashlights
from http://www.lighthound.com

 -Osram 64623 HLX Lamp
-GY6.35 Bi-Pin Holder
I think i should be able to source these from a local place as i have bought osram bulbs before. Does the holder have to be of any special type?

-the Modified Five Mega Holder
I think I can make this holder, I raced electric remote control cars for a number of years so I could solder a pack together, but if the holder will fit where the 6D cells were, with terminals at each end this will make life easy.
Where to get this from?

-12x Intellect 2/3 A 1400Mah Cells 
I should be able to source these from http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com 

-10amp Tailswitch
I will be able to sort something here with out too much drama.

-Metal Medium Stipple reflector
again where to purchase this

Thank you for any help you can give me, any machine work etc that needs to be done I should be able to do I am fairly handy in that department. I like to play with nissan turbo cars in my spare time, I can share pics if anyone is interested.

Thank you


----------



## SR910 (Dec 21, 2006)

If this is in the wrong section please move it.

Cheers


----------



## Rando (Dec 21, 2006)

Reflector:

http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=stipple&x=0&y=0

Good luck, be sure to post build pics and beam shots when you're done. I'd love to see what you come up with.


----------



## AndrewL (Dec 21, 2006)

surely you can get more light with a 6D body, can the bulb handle more then 12cells?

or at least that amount of power you could get 3times the runtime


----------



## oregon (Dec 21, 2006)

Look into the "group buy" forum of CPF for all you need. Look at the bottom of this page at "forum jump" then click on "group buys and passarounds." 

*Bulb*: http://www.replacementlightbulbs.com/lampsphoto.htm 

*bi-pin holder*: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ad.php?t=132235
This clever bi-pin lamp holder only fits certain bi-pin lamps: 
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/143052

*reflector*: get a cammed reflector in order to adjust your beam and make certain that your choice of bulb(s) fits thru the reflector. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/112185

Don't even think about jamming two battery carriers together! Discuss this with fivemega. 18 AA to 6 D!!! Personally, I would just use 6 D NiMHs (simple, easy, cheap and no carrier needed).

The Borofloat lens is similar to Pyrex (heat resistant glass) and it transmits the vast majority of light out the front. http://www.pgo-online.com/intl/katalog/borofloat.html

I gotta have pics of this big fun project.

All the best,

oregon


----------



## JimmyM (Dec 21, 2006)

You can use 13 2/3As to drive the 623. If you have a 6 D Mag body you can't fit 2/3As without boring. Also, the 6 D is too long to bore. So you're stuck with AA cells. You can only fit 10 1/2Ds (maybe).
So. 3x5 CBP1650s with 2 dummies = 13 cells, but comes up short. It would fir nicely in a 4D perhaps.
If you can find someone to bore a 4D you could use the same 3x5 arrangement but use GP2500 cells (A).

You're better off getting 3D bored with 13 2/3As. I have it on good authority that you don't need to use a tail switch. The stock Mag switch (soldered KIU socket) can hold up to the current of the 623.


----------



## Icebreak (Dec 21, 2006)

JimmyM -

I think he means 12 series.

13 series should also fit in a 6D. Might need to do the tail cap mod. (easy) Obviously PVC pipe, vinyl tube or heater hose to handle battery rattle. I've seen guys use Tamiya connectors in pack set-ups. Seems like there is a better one but I can't think of it. You being an RC guy probably know the best connectors already.

Might want to check out that new Elite 1500. Mike likes them better and they are cheaper.


----------



## JimmyM (Dec 21, 2006)

Icebreak said:


> JimmyM -
> 
> I think he means 12 series.
> 
> ...



FM made a Mag623 4000 Lumens and it has a 15.6v (13 cells) 2/3A pack in a 3D body. You could build a pack that has 13s2p 2/3As in a 6D body (2 wide). It shouldn't require boring.


----------



## Thujone (Dec 21, 2006)

Icebreak said:


> JimmyM -
> 
> Seems like there is a better one but I can't think of it. You being an RC guy probably know the best connectors already.



I always stick with Deans (Link is for pics, never ordered there)


----------



## Icebreak (Dec 21, 2006)

Gotcha. Thanks.


----------



## DrifT3R (Dec 21, 2006)

Thujone said:


> I always stick with Deans (Link is for pics, never ordered there)



deans are indeed the best. I've melted a few tamiya connectors.


----------



## SR910 (Dec 21, 2006)

Oh deans connectors, i have them lying around here already.

so the problem with my light is its too hard to get it boared to run the 3 batteries in the triangle parrern?

i measured i should be able to fit 13 2/3A's long ways, or alternativly i could run 2 batteries side by side with out boaring and easily fit enough, is it fine to do it this way?

time to start ordering some parts!

Oregon, do you think it is ok to use the stock switch unit with that light plug adapter and reflector, im scared that it could melt? If it is ok it would make life alot easier.


----------



## oregon (Dec 21, 2006)

SR910 said:


> Oregon, do you think it is ok to use the stock switch unit with that light plug adapter and reflector, im scared that it could melt? If it is ok it would make life alot easier.


 
I've used the original switch in the three hotwires I've done without problems.

The highest voltage hotwire has a beautiful fivemega battery carrier with 9 AAs (three batteries to a tier with three tiers). This is about 12 volts running a WA1185. This battery carrier has a charging port so the batteries can be charged in place with one of Aaron's smart chargers for 6-12 AA combinations. I love it. The carrier and the charger are the business.

Also: I've checked my Osram 64623 and it won't fit in the small brass/ceramic bi-pin pot. Fivemega gives a list of the bulbs that will fit in the thread where he sells them.

When you order your metal reflector make sure that your intended bulb(s) will fit them. The Osram 64623 is 1/2 inch wide!

You need the Kiu thermal bi-pin socket I believe. You might shoot Kiu an emal verifying that the pins on the Osram 64623 will indeed work. I am waiting to receive one of these myself. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/132235

All the best,

oregon


----------



## mudman cj (Dec 21, 2006)

It is fine to run 2/3A cells sideways - I have a welded pack with tabs connecting each cell and covered in insulating shrinkwrap made by CBP. Per my request, they even used long tabs at each end, bent them around the edge of the end batteries, and then left only the centers of each end tab exposed when wrapping it to allow electrical contact to the flashlight springs at each end. My stick of 10 cells is a drop in replacement for 3 D cells, has low resistance, and is built well. I think you will be happy with this setup if you choose it.


----------



## SR910 (Dec 22, 2006)

i bught my bulb today and also a holder for it, im going to machine up an alloy spacer link in that link you sent me. Is there an easy way to get that circlip out of the mag light stupid thing doesnt have any tabs to use circlip pliers.


----------



## SR910 (Dec 22, 2006)

Don't worry boys i found the set screw and the switch assemply is out now, I went to the model shop today all sold out of the intelect batteries


----------



## Bob_G (Dec 22, 2006)

For that C-clip, use a small, narrow screwdriver and work the tip under one end. Rotate the blade tip (to get the clip away from the body) while applying downward pressure to free the clip. Once you get any of it freed, it just falls out. It works better for me to have the end of the clip toward me, instead of away (I used to have it away so I could see better, but that messes up the angle of attack with the screwdriver LOL.) 

Credit where credit's due - the above technique is from DonShock.

I'm hoping to build a 2/3A based light next year, and the Elite1500 look like the way to go. Have you checked into them at CBP?


----------



## SR910 (Dec 22, 2006)

Ill check them out man, also ill see if u can get them where i live.

thanks for tip, i read earlier someone said they look to be better also.


----------



## Icebreak (Dec 22, 2006)

I haven't built one of these. I did try to find a definitive answer for the OEM switch capability.

Delvance's switch finally failed and melted. However, some feel that if the switch were treated with Pro Gold the decreased resistance might save it.

It's also possible if a switch fix (involves soldering a couple of wires to the switch should be easy to find a thread on that) were done the OEM switch would be fine.

Mac Torch has a 10A switch.

The USL has a rocker arm switch.

This board tends to help with real time help so you'll seldom see "Do a search." as the answer. I did want to help you with doing searches though. The board search function can be a pain. The onboard Google search at the top of every page works great. If you type in "Osram 64623 switch" you'll get some excellent hits.

Also, other guys that have built similar lights may see your thread and chime in yet, as you can, see the gentlemen helping you so far are doing a fine job.

13s2p is interesting because obviously it will achieve almost double the run time.

Interesting project. Good luck with it.


----------



## SR910 (Dec 22, 2006)

Thanks for the info ill have a look for switches, I just ordered 26 cells from CBP, elite 1500s.

Just got to order the lens and the reflector now.


----------



## Icebreak (Dec 22, 2006)

I think the switch is going to be cake walk for someone with your skill level.

Ah! 13s2p 1500s. Nice. I don't have the 1500s but I trust Mike at CBP. He knows his batteries and he's an RC guy. Fast shipper too. It would be very cool if your cells arrived in OZ next Saturday.


----------



## SR910 (Dec 22, 2006)

Yea i will order the other stuff i need soon.

Im deciting if i should go a swith in the stock location, or a switch on the end, i think stock location would be much better as its so long.


----------



## 65535 (Dec 22, 2006)

www.cheapbatterypacks.com


----------



## SR910 (Dec 22, 2006)

65535, already ordered from there today!

26 elite cells

I have already been thinking of some designes for the battery pack holder, and how i will wire the torch up. Im still dont know if i should run wiring for the light system positive and negative, or ground it though the torch body.

Any input?


----------



## SR910 (Jan 3, 2007)

Hi guys been a bit of a slow process, The alloy reflector and lens has arrived at my house from the USA, I have the globe and the blobe holder, now just waiting on my batteries.


----------



## tazambo (Jan 4, 2007)

SR910,

Be sure to post pictures and beam shots.

I've built a Mag85 in my 3C and am waiting on AW to release his C sized Li-ion cells to power it. I can't hardly wait.

Regards
Dave


----------



## SR910 (Jan 19, 2007)

hi ppl, iv started to machine up some of the bits i need. but iv hit a problem, i cant find a decent sized 10 amp switch anywhere. 

Im after something that looks like this






but maby a bit smaller, the diameter of that one is 19mm where the thread is, doesnt anyone know where i can get one smaller?

thanks


----------



## JimmyM (Jan 20, 2007)

You might want to consider a different approach to your switch other than a high current pushbutton. The resistance will still be quite high even with a new high current pushbutton.
Consider this. Use a MOSFET. They're quite easy to wire.

If you're going to replace the existing switch, use a small SPDT pushbutton.
Connect B+ to the DRAIN of the MOSFET.
Connect B- to the Lamp
Connect the SOURCE of the MOSFET to the other lamp pin.
Connect the GATE of the MOSFET to the common connector on your switch.
Connect one of the switch pins to B+ and the other to B-.

Use a MOSFET like this one http://catalog.digikey.com/scripts/partsearch.dll?Detail?name=IRFB3207PBF-ND

If you don't want to change the switch, you can connect it like this.
Connect B+ to the DRAIN of the MOSFET using the standard Mag switch fix spring bypass.
Connect B- to the Lamp using the standard Mag switch fix ground connection.
Connect the SOURCE of the MOSFET to the other lamp pin.
Connect the GATE of the MOSFET to the lamp-side of the Mag switch.
Do not connect the Mag switch to the lamp.
Also connect the GATE of the MOSFET to B- using a 10k 1/4W resistor. When the Mag switch is off, it will supply turn off voltage to the MOSFET.
The resistor will however be a continuous 1.6mA drain on your battery.
The ON resistance will be so low, you might pop the lamp with 15.6 volts. Try it first on 14.4 volts.


----------



## SR910 (Jan 21, 2007)

Thank you for that

Electronics is not my real strong point, so from what i can see, the MODFET is like a relay in a way?

What current rating would the switch i use need? quite small?


----------



## JimmyM (Jan 21, 2007)

SR910 said:


> Thank you for that
> 
> Electronics is not my real strong point, so from what i can see, the MODFET is like a relay in a way?
> 
> What current rating would the switch i use need? quite small?


In this application, that's exactly what we're doing. A MOSFET is voltage driven not current (like a transistor). So switching 100 amps only takes about 10-12 volts at microamps. We apply voltage (B+) to turn it on but have to ground the pin (B-) to turn it off. Nominally you'd need 12-15 amps, but you want to be able to andle the startup current spike. It's no big deal to find a MOSFET capable of handling 150 amps for less than $5.00. You want a MOSFET with a very low Rds(on) (Resistance from Drain to Source in the ON state) you want something below 10 Milli-Ohms. Lower is better. There are several MOSFETs that have Rds(on) below 5 mOhm that can handle 150 amps. The pushbutton switch you use only needs to carry a few microamps.


----------



## SR910 (Jul 22, 2008)

Sorry to bring up an old thread, cut i have been very busy doing my mechanical engineering course and put this light on the back burner, no doubt now it will be a bit "behind the times" but im still going to finish it!

Ill post some pics of my machining work for the bulb holder soon.


----------



## tebore (Jul 22, 2008)

Nice you really let this project sit. 

Keep it going.


----------

