# Getting a lathe, need advice



## trivergata (Jan 19, 2007)

Well, my work is finally putting up for a small shop, and I've said I can learn what I need to for prototyping, but I have a question. I think I'm going to go with the Jet GHB-1340, as it seems to be the best lathe in my range, but my knowlage is limited, and I've never done any threading. As I'm sure you could guess, my practice/learning projects will involve alot of lights, and I want to make sure that this lathe will alow me to do any of the threading I may need for making bodies, heads, ect. I know that a fair amount is possable with taps, but what about cutting threads for Surefire/Aleph type stuff. Will this do it? Are there any other attachments I need? Any advice on where to get them?

I've got alot to learn, but my job is paying for the tools now, so I need to get everything I need and learn as I go along.

Any other advice?

Josh


----------



## gadget_lover (Jan 19, 2007)

Holy Moley! That one will do most of what you will want. The only drawback is the size of the spindle. 1 3/8 is just a bit too small for a D cell maglight to fit through. The common dimensions thread ( https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/51647 ) has the OD of the mag D cell at a bit more than 1.5 inches.

The lathe you are looking at should be capable of many threads. I found a list at http://asuwlink.uwyo.edu/~metal/ghb1340_lis.txt as referred by 
http://asuwlink.uwyo.edu/~metal/ghb1340_threads.html


Daniel


----------



## modamag (Jan 20, 2007)

Josh for that amount of $$$ and the size I recommend you look into used these lathe. Monarch 10EE, Clausing 13", Standard Modern, Takisawa.

If you cant hold out (like I did), then get what cmac got Grizzly G4003. Mac already did the homework for you, the spindle bore is 1-5/8".


----------



## trivergata (Jan 22, 2007)

Thanks, guys!

Modamag, my job requires that it is new, so used is not an option........

As far as the spindle bore, I could still work on full-sized mags, just not feed them thru the spindle all the way, right?

Like I said, kinda a newbe at this!

Josh


----------



## MoonRise (Jan 22, 2007)

Aw, if work is buying it then go for the biggest that you can get. Try this puppy

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G9733


----------



## gadget_lover (Jan 22, 2007)

trivergata said:


> Thanks, guys!
> 
> Modamag, my job requires that it is new, so used is not an option........
> 
> ...




You can do that. but remember that something that long needs to be supported on the end away from the chuck. This is not difficult BUT the support may mar the finish of the light.

Daniel


----------



## trivergata (Jan 25, 2007)

Cool - thanks for the advice guys.

MoonRise - you'd blow most of my budget with that one alone!!! Nice machine though.

I'm sure you guys will be getting all kinds of basic questions from me - thanks in advance for being patient!

Josh


----------



## will (Jan 25, 2007)

If you are going to thread the inside of of D cell mags, get one that the body will fit into the chuck, it will make life so much easier and safer, Plus - any threading you do will be done close to the chuck.


----------



## trivergata (Jan 25, 2007)

I'm more of a fan of 123 sized lights, so I should be fine, but you know as soon as I get it, I'll want bigger.........

Josh


----------



## bwaites (Jan 27, 2007)

I WANT a full sized machine, but I have neither the space or funds for one, so I am going to buy a mini-lathe also. I am considering these: 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44859

and this one:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82710

Any guidance would be appreciated!

Bill


----------



## gadget_lover (Jan 27, 2007)

Bill,

The HF is a much bigger machine than the MM (MicroMark). The HF is 260 lbs vs 90 for the MM. In theory, it should be stiffer and therefor able to make heavier cuts. That's a good thing. 

On the other hand, the MM has variable speeds and hand-crank screws marked in inches, so one turn is .050.

The HF has a bigger chuck (4 inch VS 3 inch on the MM). This can make life easier. I just now did a 2 inch piece and had to change the chuck from 3 inch to 4 inch to hold the short part.

Welcome to the "I need more tooling" club.

Daniel


----------



## modamag (Jan 27, 2007)

Bill you'll be better off with the 8x12, they copied the design from the Emco Compact 8 (famous Austrian machine). You won't break as much gears or have to do all the upgrade. Just ask JimH who recently is using his.

BTW: I saw some nice machines that were really cheap up in your neck of the wood. Too bad it's too far for me to transport to the Bay Area. It seems like a good oldies increase in value by $10 per miles as it gets closer to the Bay Area.

Here's what I found
9x20 probably import but it have been owned so probably refined
The genuine Emco Compact 8
Jet 10x24 although Asian, but one of the better ones
Jet 10x24 although Asian, but one of the better ones


------------ ++++++++ --------------

Daniel, I'm no longer in the I need more tooling club. I'm in the "I need another lathe club"


----------



## bwaites (Jan 27, 2007)

You in a rush, Jonathan? I'm coming that way sometime this summer, I could bring it with me!

Thanks for the pointers, guys! 90% of the work I'd do, at least initially, would be small pieces, and I REALLY have no room for a full size lathe. The small MM machine could actually be put in my flashlight room, whereas all the others would be consigned to the garage, which, in my neck of the woods, gets REAL cold this time of the year!

Bill

Bill


----------



## kenster (Jan 27, 2007)

bwaites, I have looked at both of those Lathes for a long time. Micro Mark does have some nice features like gadget_lover mentioned but the Harbor Frieght is a much heavier duty build with a wider stiffer bed that will give cleaner cuts and it has more power too. The LatheMaster 8 x 14 is the same Lathe as the HF which is actually an 8 x 14 and not 8 x 12. LatheMaster claims to be ready to go right out of the box and that is what I have read posted at Forums as well. Hf is covered in grease that needs to be cleaned off and needs some time spent adjusting and dialing it in. LatheMaster costs more but I have read someone will actually help you if you buy your there if there is a problem with your Lathe and even answer questions to help. Harbor Frieght has left people waiting weeks for a response to a problem and months for parts. That would suck having a new Lathe sitting there you couldn`t use. I ordered the Micro Mark Mini Lathe & Mill a while back and the payment got messed up(also my Visa credit card & PayPal account! ) so they never sent it. Even though Micro Mark has a sale right now and I talked to them yesterday about ordering again, I believe I will go with one of the 8 x 14`s. I would love to have a larger Lathe and I have the funds for it but don`t have a place to put a big one right now. I would really like to hear what you decide on buying since it looks like we will be starting our Lathe fun the same time and maybe with the same Lathe. Good luck with your machining education and pay attention to these guys if one of them posts a ... DON`T DO THAT!!! For myself, I realize they have been there and done that so they know what they are talking about and can help prevent destroying work or breaking Lathe parts. Maybe even prevent broken or missing people parts.:huh: My fingers and whatever are old and worthless but I would like to keep all of them anyway! 

Ken

BTW Modamag mentioned the Emco compact 8 and there is a used one for sale on Ebay if anyone has an interest in a used small Lathe.:shrug:


----------



## tino_ale (Jan 27, 2007)

Kenster, I understand the LatheMaster 8x14 and the HF 8x12 are in fact the very same lathe. Which is much better compared to the 7x12, heavier and etc, worth the extra money.

As the LatheMaster is more expensive, could you please develop or give some link explaining why one should choose the LatheMaster and not the HF one...

Is there a difference in the performances? The overall buiding/assembly quality/tight tolerance between the two? Are the accessories the same and same quality?

Thanks for clarifying that, coze the HF 8x12 is basicly the lathe that everyone seems to advise for lathe newbies...


----------



## will (Jan 27, 2007)

I have an ENCO 7x10 mini-lathe. I bought this used off ebay for $250 a few years back. I got the lathe mainly for small woodworking projects that I do. I have since used it a lot for metal ( aluminum ) The main thing with lathes is the size of the things that you are going to be working with. Mine has a 3" chuck. I couldn't even fit the body of a mini-mag into the chuck. There is enough material on the inside and I was able to bore out the chuck enought to get the mini-mags to fit in. I can do some work on D cell mags, limited to 2 D, and only outside work. The bed is not long enough to do threading on the inside of the D mags, plus the fact that the entire length is just hanging out. 

Things I don't like - the tailstock requires a wrench to tighten in place. Threading requires changing gears on the back - not really a big deal, just inconvenient. 

speed is changed with a dial - nice feature. forward and reverse is a switch, high speed and low speed is a lever. 

I have a small shop and the lathe gets put on shelf when not in use. 

All in all - it does what I got it for. If I had the room and the money - I would definately get bigger.


----------



## kenster (Jan 27, 2007)

Tino_ale, the Harbor Frieght Lathe will save you money but the Lathemaster will save time. The HF will need the thick layer of grease on everything all clean up. I have read they come not ready to use condition so you have to take them apart, remove burs you find and then reassemble using all the right measuring tools. The Lathemaster comes dialed in and ready to go and has a few extras the HF doesn`t come with. When you get to the link below click on where it says PRICING and you will find a list of what the Lathmaster comes with as well as what it would cost to outfit the HF the same way. The prices are old I guess since the Lathemaster costs $50 more dollars than it shows. There is other stuff to read for more information on the 8 x 14 Lathes at the site.

http://www.fignoggle.com/machines/8x12lathe/index.htm

Go to this link and you will find all kinds of reading as well as links to more stuff to read. If it isn`t enough for you send me a PM. Have fun! 

http://www.mini-lathe.com/


Ken


----------



## bwaites (Jan 27, 2007)

Guys,

Man, I wait and wait for the MM sale, and then you guys pop up with all these alternatives! And then I've got to come up with a few hundred more dollars, too!

I like the Lathemaster, but size and weight are issues.

I really hoped to use this in my flashlight/hobby room, not in the garage because of the cold winters here. Standing in the garage in a coat trying to get work done doesn't sound fine.

Right now, I'm leaning towards the Lathemaster. 

Kenster, maybe if we order at the same time we can talk them into a 2 for 1 price deal!

The Lathemaster does seem to come with the options I planned on ordering with the MM, so the difference isn't that great and it's a bigger machine to boot.

Bill


----------



## tino_ale (Jan 27, 2007)

Thanks Kenster, great link here!

It looks like the 8x14 is the way to go for the newbie who has a limited budget but want a decently rigid lathe... I didn't know there was such a gap betwen the 7x12 and the 8x14 ! Seems to worth the price difference.

Do you have any alternative in mind? Or is the 8x14 lathemaster the best to get for the price?


----------



## jch79 (Jan 27, 2007)

Quick semi-related question: What about a table-top/small (1x123) lathe that's Made in USA?

Researching these things can be quite the daunting task!

 john


----------



## Anglepoise (Jan 27, 2007)

jch79 said:


> Quick semi-related question: What about a table-top/small (1x123) lathe that's Made in USA?
> 
> Researching these things can be quite the daunting task!
> 
> john



I think in a small table top lathe, Sherline is the last American made example.

SITE 


The lathemaster looks to be a pretty good starter lathe in both price and size.


----------



## gadget_lover (Jan 27, 2007)

In defense of the smaller lathes....

They are capable. I've posted many pictures of the work I've done on a HF 7x10 and later a Cummins 7x12. They can bore, thread, turn and do most anything you want. They just do it with lighter cuts. With the right tool a finishing pass can be nearly mirror smooth on 6061 aluminum.

Made on a 7x10. There are 5 threaded pieces; bezel, head, body, tailcap, heatsink. The finished dimensions are +- .001 of what I wanted. The only polishing is wear after 1 yaer of daily carry.






Lighter cuts can have several impacts. Mostly, you end up making a lot of passes with shallow cuts until you get familiar with the lathe and find it can do better. I started out making whimpy .005 deep cuts until I got properly ground tools. Now I take .025 to .040 deep cuts. If you are turning a 1 inch diameter rod down to .75 at .005 per pass it takes forever. I did that a few times. The same turning at .040 per pass takes only a few minutes. Some materials "work harden" if you take real light cuts and never get much below the surface. This can be a real hassle till you realize it's happened.

If you are going to need to move it around, the MM 7x14 is a much better choice. The 90 lbs VS 290 lbs can make a big difference. The 8x12 should take about the same amount of space. Keep in mind that my lathe takes up a 1 foot by 3 foot section of bench. My *tooling* on the other hand, takes up a chest about 2 x 2 x 3 foot high. You also need to get to the back of the lathe on occasion, so it's nice to be able to move it.

A small heater in the garage makes it bearable, by the way. 

Daniel


----------



## jch79 (Jan 27, 2007)

Anglepoise said:


> I think in a small table top lathe, Sherline is the last American made example.


Thanks! How do the Sherline lathes stack up against the above-mentioned lathes?

EDIT: After checking out their website, they seem to have some awesome prices for what seem to be good machines. :thinking:


----------



## gadget_lover (Jan 27, 2007)

The sheline lathes are for modeling. They are smaller, lighter and less rigid than the HF 7x10! The chuck is very small, so you can not hold much.

It's a 3x8 machine

Daniel


----------



## jch79 (Jan 27, 2007)

Bummer... thanks for the quick answer Daniel!
john


----------



## kenster (Jan 27, 2007)

Here is a link to the Lathe I really want. I tried to buy a Wabeco 4000 CNC from this place in November or December but the dumb a.. salesman didn`t want to take my money I had for one and I was dying to spend to get it. The guy was an idiot! Anyway, these can be run both CNC or manually. The total price with all the tooling ......... could buy quite a few of these Mini Lathes. Maybe later this year after I do some learning on my 8 x 14 I will get a CNC Wabeco if I find my interest in machining grows. I`m fairly sure I`ll enjoy it and I can see having a Wabeco CNC Lathe before the first day of summer arrives. 

I believe that Kato was using a Wabeco Lathe making some of those very nicely machined KI lights.

http://www.mdaprecision.com/Products/Wabeco%20Products/LATHES/Lathes%20CNC/CC-D6000E/CC-D6000E.html


----------



## jch79 (Jan 27, 2007)

Those Wabeco's look amazing - I've seen them before.

Heck - maybe my bonus this year will be 10x what it usually is!


----------



## zelda (Jan 27, 2007)

_http://www.mdaprecision.com/PICTURES/Wabeco-Pictures/MACHINES/Lathes/CC-D6000E/Ken-G.-lathe-100.jpg_

A mobile CNC-Lathe? :huh:


----------



## tino_ale (Jan 27, 2007)

Daniel,
I don't have any doubt on the fact that those 7x lathes are capable. When I see what others well trained guys can do with them, well I wish one day I'll be able to do the same!
Still, from what I hear, if you forget about size/weight, the 8x14 from lathemaster is a better value for the money spent. The 8x14 seems to be better built, therefor more rigid.

I agree the size/weight does matter for some of us. I am one of those. But the 8x14 seems to be a great compromise between cost, weight/size and built quality/capabilities.



gadget_lover said:


> In defense of the smaller lathes....
> 
> They are capable. I've posted many pictures of the work I've done on a HF 7x10 and later a Cummins 7x12. They can bore, thread, turn and do most anything you want. They just do it with lighter cuts. With the right tool a finishing pass can be nearly mirror smooth on 6061 aluminum.


----------



## kenster (Jan 27, 2007)

I think the 8 x 12 from Harbor frieght is the best value. I want the Lathemaster instead mostly because I am LAZY! Also the service at Lathemaster is better should there be a problem with my Lathe.


----------



## bwaites (Jan 27, 2007)

So a group buy Kenster? Ready to run one?

Bill


----------



## kenster (Jan 27, 2007)

bwaites said:


> So a group buy Kenster? Ready to run one?
> 
> Bill


 
:huh2: Well, that depends. Just how big is this group I have to buy Lathes for????:huh: Man, this place is expensive to hang out at! I`ll look in my couch for some more change but........... 

Ken:laughing:


----------



## frisco (Jan 27, 2007)

I'm watching this thread closely..... The practical guy in me says get the 8x12 HF or Lathemaster.
The other guy in my head says I really should get that Grizzly that Modamag mentioned above that Mac got. It would be better for me in the sense that it would be a better match to my Full Size (54" table) Bridgeport Style Mill. Also better for making Harley parts.

Carry on gentleman...... I'm watching!

frisco


----------



## modamag (Jan 28, 2007)

Guys, when you buy a new lathe, you ALWAYS have to do the traditional baptize (grease removal) regardless if it HF or Lathemaster. They use it to prevent rust when it sails across the pond. Get a gallon of WD40 and a bunch of disposable cloth and some gloves. It about 2 hours to clean mine. It's a good opportunity to learn the lathe parts at that time.

The Lathemaster & HF 8x14 are NOT completely the same. The Lathemaster have induction harden waysm, and not HF, which is worth alot more than $100 IMHO. Ask PaulB, who got a LM 8x14, he should be able to give you the lowdown scoop.

The space a 7x12 take is really no different than a 8x14. You can put both of these lathe on your Kennedy tool box.

*jch79: *My friend bored a Mag2D for me to make a MagHID (when I first join the forum) on a sherline  but it's not recommended.

*frisco: *do you want a toolroom size lathe? It's 7K complete with tooling in great condition from WWII  I think it's a little overprice but you can negotiate with the guy down.

Good luck guys.


----------



## kenster (Jan 28, 2007)

modamag said:


> Guys, when you buy a new lathe, you ALWAYS have to do the traditional baptize (grease removal) regardless if it HF or Lathemaster. They use it to prevent rust when it sails across the pond. Get a gallon of WD40 and a bunch of disposable cloth and some gloves. It about 2 hours to clean mine. It's a good opportunity to learn the lathe parts at that time.


 
I have seen a lot of pictures and read a whole lot of written word on both the HF and Lathemaster for months. I`m not going to spend forever finding all of it again but there is one link below on the Lathemaster. For the HF, yes, you have to take the Lathe down and spend a couple hours as Modamag did using a roll or a box of disposable towels with a jug of some kind of cleaner for all the grease. Every websitr I found said this had to be done. The Lathemaster comes in ready to use condition and you do not have to take it down and have read and seen pictures of this over and over but I believe it would be a wise choice to take the Lathe down anyway as part of the learning process. I`m not too woried about it myself and probably wont take mine all the way down right away unless I see something that bothers me while I `m playing around with the machine, unplugged of course, when I am setting it up on my bench, leveling it and bolting it down. I have never actually seen either Lathe so I could be all wrong but I was just sharing some of the info I have read and seen pictures of on these two Lathes. Some sites I found the guy tore the Lathemaster down finding a bur on a thread that made for a slight stiff spot or something like that type of nit picking while searching with a fine tooth comb and a micoscope hoping to find a problem to reveal on thier website. Some took the Lathemaster down and put it back together finding nothing wrong at all. For the HF Lathe every website I found said no way around it, clean for hours on the grease, take it down and fix all the burs and problems the Lathe *will* have while doing it. 

Anyway, I have researched and now I will buy based on what I have read and I have seen pictures of over and over. I hope which ever Lathe any of you guys decide on buying arrives in perfect condition and everything operates as smooth, sweet & true as can be!



Actually, I hope you guys find you can afford a better one than I am getting. 

http://stickman4.homestead.com/8x14lathe.html

Ken

*EDIT* I fogot something. For anyone who buys a Lathe better than the one I am getting. :nana: Hehe!


----------



## will (Jan 28, 2007)

I suppose there are lots of cleaners/degreasers out there - I generally use kerosene - $2.20 or so a gallon. If you have some old towels around, they are better than paper towels, just don't throw them in the washing machine - toss them out.. I also use kerosene for a cutting oil on aluminum work. There are regular cutting oils out there that I am sure do a better job, just none available locally. 

I wouldn't take a lathe apart when I first got it, unless I had already been working with lathes and knew all the adjustments and how they affect accuracy. If you do take one apart - a good dial guage with a magnetic base is very helpful.

My ENCO 7x10 is luggable around the shop area, anything bigger should be on a cart of some kind.


----------



## wquiles (Jan 28, 2007)

If I "upgrade" to a 8x12 (HF or Lathemaster), how much of my existing QT holder, cutting tools/accessories will I be able to reuse in the newer, bigger lathe? 

Will


----------



## kenster (Jan 28, 2007)

wquiles said:


> If I "upgrade" to a 8x12 (HF or Lathemaster), how much of my existing QT holder, cutting tools/accessories will I be able to reuse in the newer, bigger lathe?
> 
> Will


 
This link might help you figure it out. They list what fits what on most everything they sell so I figure you can figure it out looking at what they have and what you have and what fits what and .......... . If that makes any sense? It doesn`t to me??? 

Seriously, I don`t know exactly what all you have but I would bet the link will help. If it doesn`t, I tried to help anyway. 

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/info/qctp.php

Ken


----------



## tino_ale (Jan 28, 2007)

Now that we are seriously talking of a particular "small" lathe, the LM8x14 (or HF8x12), does anyone know is this lathe is capable of machining a titanium CR123 ligh without heavy modification?


----------



## gadget_lover (Jan 28, 2007)

The lathemaster has the same size spindle and tailstock as the 7x1x series. Your collets and centers shoudl be usable. The tooling should work fine for either one. The QCTP might or might not work. The 8x12 has more room over the cross slide (Swing over Cross Slide: 4 3/4 VS 3.9 on the 7x10) so the tool post may be too short. You'd have to ask around on that.

The lathemaster 8x12 has the same size spindle bore as the HF 7x10, so you are gaining in bed length but not gaining on the size you can pass through the spindle. If you have the 7x12 you are gaining just some rigidity, but losing the variable speed.

I'd not jump from the Cummins 7x12 to the 8x12, since there is not enough gain.

Daniel


----------



## Anglepoise (Jan 28, 2007)

I am not going to be drawn into a discussion of what can be accomplished with a small lathe, other than say I have seen incredible quality work from 'table tops'.

However, there are two distinct hobbies here. As flashaholics, I suspect most members considering a lathe purchase want to make flashlights and parts for same.

I would venture that the most important consideration is the spindle through hole size. 

If you can not get a 1" diameter rod up the pipe, you are going to have an extremely frustrating time if your goal is to make a simple CR1123a light.

Of course it is possible with steadies but is it practical. 
If the tool will not do the job, frustration sets in. 

So keep this in mind when deciding between a new table top and maybe a used American 'Atlas'.

Get as big a lathe as possible. Used deals with tooling are around if you are prepared to look. Old machinists like me are popping off all over the place and their widows are only too happy to convert all those smelly machines in the basement to cash.

If you are forced to go the table top route due to apartment dwelling or other , then buy something that is popular and can be sold on with no problem when you graduate upwards, or get out of the hobby.


----------



## modamag (Jan 28, 2007)

Guys, regardless of the lathe size, you usually can get away with cutting almost anything. The finish might not be be the same as one done on a larger lathe (for the same amount of time). BUT it's possible.

It really comes down to the following tradeoff you have to make.

*1. Time* - it take more time to compensate for the lack of stability/sturdiness.

*2. Space* - Larger & beefier takes up ALOT more space and weight alot more to achieve the stability.

*3. $$$* - Larger lathe needs larger tooling which cost more. Now if you strike one of those rare deal with a local retired machinist then it's another thing.

So in short get the LARGEST lathe your space can handle for the LEAST amount of $$$ you can spend.


*wquiles: *Your existing A2Z QCTP will work on a 8x12. You need to might need adapt to the M8 stud but that's fairly simple. Your 1/4"-1/2" tools will work fine. But in the long run you might want to snipe for an AXA QCTP on ebay


----------



## tino_ale (Jan 28, 2007)

I am a pure lathe uneducated newbie on the subject. What I see is that the LM 8x14 has a 3/4" spindle bore...
Could someone very patient  explain to me why this spindle hole is so important. What, in practical terms, is it usefull for?
Doest that mean that is becomes a PITA to machine parts from rods which have an OD larger than the spindle hole?

Please forgive my ignorance...


Anglepoise said:


> I would venture that the most important consideration is the spindle through hole size.
> 
> If you can not get a 1" diameter rod up the pipe, you are going to have an extremely frustrating time if your goal is to make a simple CR1123a light.


----------



## gadget_lover (Jan 28, 2007)

When you turn a piece, the most stable part is the part nearest the chuck. Due to many factors, the further a part is from the chuck, the more deflection. Even a 1 inch steel bar will deflect when you are pressing against it 12 inches from the chuck.

The idea of a large spindle hole is that you can push the part of the rod that you are not cutting all the way into the head, leaving the section you are cutting close to the chuck.

A 3/4 inch spindle will handle AA and CR123 light bodies. A 1 inch will ( I have to check) allow the body of a mag 2 C to pass through. A Mag D is a touch obver 1.5 inch in diameter.

You can still work on larger lights in a small lathe. You simply have to use one of the many tools that support the end away from the chuck. Bear in mind that some chucks have a large bore, so you can get 3 or inches supported as the light will go partway into the spindle. The 3/4 inch of the 7x10 is the MINIMUM hole in the spindle. Since it's a taper, the first inch is much bigger.

Daniel


----------



## Anglepoise (Jan 28, 2007)

This site has many links is a great resource for someone starting off.


Lathe Links


And just for 'Lathemaster'

Lathemaster stuff


----------



## frisco (Jan 28, 2007)

modamag said:


> *frisco: *do you want a toolroom size lathe? It's 7K complete with tooling in great condition from WWII  I think it's a little overprice but you can negotiate with the guy down.



Darn Modamag......... I was thinking 500-800........ Than you opened my eyes to a $3000.00 machine......... Now a $7000.00 machine !!!!! 

frisco


----------



## tino_ale (Jan 29, 2007)

Thank you for the very clear explanation!
I get it. Now some things that I have read before on this forum make sense to me.
Sheeesh! When people advise to get the largest lathe you can, it's REALLY not only a matter of rigidity/weight... Seems that it changes everything!


gadget_lover said:


> When you turn a piece, the most stable part is the part nearest the chuck. Due to many factors, the further a part is from the chuck, the more deflection. Even a 1 inch steel bar will deflect when you are pressing against it 12 inches from the chuck.
> 
> The idea of a large spindle hole is that you can push the part of the rod that you are not cutting all the way into the head, leaving the section you are cutting close to the chuck.
> 
> ...


----------



## modamag (Jan 29, 2007)

*frisco:* if you're still eyeing the grizzly it's on back order til late March. So from now till then you got lots of time to explore. Hopefully a nice HLV-H will be on craigslis or local auction. There is one in Feb, where they might have lathe for $3K but it's gonna be a big one.

BTW: if do you run your BP clone with a rotary phase converter? I need help on a 7hp one. If you can PM me your detail it'll be much appreciated.


----------



## gadget_lover (Jan 29, 2007)

You are welcome Tino. When I bought my lathe one of the CPF members suggested that I get a bigger chuck for my HF 7x10. I did not understand either. The stock chuck has a hole that is only 1/2 inch or so. The bigger chuck I bought has a 20 mm center hole, so I can chuck long pieces a touch over 3/4 inches.

BTW, there is a cheap technique to enlarge the bore of the HF 7x10. There was a "Passaround" of a reamer that was just the right size to enlarge the spindle throughput to about 7/8. Reamers are only a few bucks.



Daniel


----------



## will (Jan 29, 2007)

gadget_lover said:


> You are welcome Tino. When I bought my lathe one of the CPF members suggested that I get a bigger chuck for my HF 7x10. I did not understand either. The stock chuck has a hole that is only 1/2 inch or so. The bigger chuck I bought has a 20 mm center hole, so I can chuck long pieces a touch over 3/4 inches.
> 
> BTW, there is a cheap technique to enlarge the bore of the HF 7x10. There was a "Passaround" of a reamer that was just the right size to enlarge the spindle throughput to about 7/8. Reamers are only a few bucks.
> 
> ...




I have the ENCO, same as HF 7x10 - I bored out the chuck to just under 3/4". It's nerve racking to hear because the cut is interupted.

the stock is size is 5/8"


----------



## wquiles (Jan 29, 2007)

will said:


> It's nerve racking to hear because the cut is interupted.


I know "exactly" that you mean 

I just finished taking a 2D with internal quad boring (for AA cells) and of course I had to re-thread it after cutting it to the right length. It was very weird to bore and then thread something that went through 4 interruptions - very weird sound if you never heard it before 

Will


----------



## modamag (Jan 29, 2007)

Will, why not a full bore instead of a quad-bore. The system is as strong as the weakest link.


----------



## wquiles (Jan 29, 2007)

My bad - I did not put a complete description of what I was doing  

I was taking a 2D already with the quad-bore, and I was cutting it to a custom 1D length based on the battery pack the owner sent. It was while re-threading that I found the "funny" or "weird" sound of the interrupted cutting. Sorry I was not clearer earlier  

Will


----------

