# Who said 6-die Ostar lights can't have decent throw? (no 56K!)



## wquiles (Mar 15, 2008)

Forum member Donn asked me several months back if I could work on a “special” project for him. Donn wanted a custom Mag light using the 6-die Ostar LED, but his goal was for this light to have the most throw possible, since most all lights using this die simply have a wide beam and not much else.

We went back and forth with several ideas, possibly using a 45mm reflector (same one I used on my McG45 custom light), or perhaps the large 3” reflectors that he was getting from another forum member. I recommended trying this out on the 3” reflector as the one it would have the best chance of working out for throw, even though I have not seen any light using this reflector/LED combination – something new and exciting for sure!

We then talked about how to drive this LED. From prior projects I knew I could count on the MaxFlex. Since the Vf of this LED is somewhere in the 20V range, this then dictated what battery source of 18 volts or less, to keep heat dissipation in the MaxFlex at a comfortable level. Donn and I discussed the choices we had, and Donn suggested two of the Kai 8.4V battery packs, which then determined the 4D body size. 

Donn sent me all of the parts, and 3 reflectors: a smooth reflector, an orange peel reflector, and a stippled reflector. Prior experience with the 4-die 5W luxeon told me to try the smooth reflector first – so that is what I convinced Donn we should try first. 

Thanks to forum member Mac, I knew that the LED had to reside “somewhere” inside the reflector to have any hope of achieving proper focus. Since this 6-die LED came mounted in a star, I naturally had a catch 22 problem: To “try” a reflector meant that I have to not only bore out the reflector quite a bit to have the star go through this big hole, but also have the LED mounted in some sort of “fixture” that would allow some focusing to determine the optimum range – basically I had to almost assemble the light to find out if it would work or not – definitely not for the faint of heart. 

Donn understood the risks of creating this light and agreed for me to give it a try, so here follows the pictorial process of the birth of Donn’s custom light – the QDOMM4D15 – the Quiles Delghi Ostar Mirage Man 4D 15Watt. Note that many great things here in the forums, this custom light is possible by contributions from several great forum members:

The QDOMM4D15:
- Designed and built by Quiles (with lots of good feedback from Donn)
- Custom head/reflector/glass by Delghi
- Custom HAIII 4D body/head by Mirage Man
- MaxFlex driver by TaskLED
- 2x Kai 8.4V cell packs
- special thanks to Mac for helping me with the LED/reflector focusing questions I had for him

So here is the package of parts I got from Donn (smooth reflector already inside the 3” head):






Here you can see how big of a hole I would had to make in the reflector to get the LED to rest inside the reflector:






Like with my McG45, the reflector is so long, that the end of the reflector actually goes inside the body of the light. I used a trick I learned here in the forums to see how deep the reflector would go:











When I removed the head, I was then able to measure how deep the reflector sits:






Since these LED’s can get hot at the high drive levels, I designed a custom heatsink that would be the largest possible, and that it would mount the LED in a tower/pedestal so that I could have possible range of focus by screwing the head in/out.

So I got some good old round Al piece and started the long process of getting the custom heat sink made:
















Now, to make the tower/pedestal I had to make a custom cutter for my lathe. I used a hex wrench, which I had to cut/taper in my grinder. Because it was so thin, I had to use another cutter to hold it in place:















Here is the new cutter in use:





And here is the end result of the tower/pedestal:





Here I am using a regular Luxeon star for a reference. A sharp eye will note that I made the DIA of the pedestal smaller than the size of the star – I did this since I will make the star as small as possible – the goal being to make the hole in the reflector as small as possible:





Once I cut the heatsink and getting the other side smooth, I checked for length – it was still a tad long (the heatsink rests on the split ring, at the top of the switch):





I cut some more, and now it fits almost perfect:










Then I need to work on the other side, as I need enough space for the driver, plus some room for the wires on top of the switch:















I then cut to the final length, and now it fits like in my paper design:










I then proceeded to work on the LED tower/pedestal. I wanted to cut 6 holes to match the star, but I needed something to hold the heatsink without damaging the edge I just finished earlier, so I created a holding ring from some plastic bushings I had in my work area:











I locate the center with my laser guide:





And then proceeded to get holes made every 60 degrees:










Three of the holes were drilled all the way through to give me a couple of wiring alternatives:





Since I wanted to make sure the LED was centered perfectly, I created a centering fixture out of Delrin:





















Now, I placed the LED in its mount, with two-part Thermal epoxy, picked two of the holes as guides (to keep the LED aligned), and placed the heatsink, LED, and centering fixture in a small D-size body:















Once the epoxy is dry, it looks like this:











I then proceeded to very carefully “trim” the excess star material until I get it down to the DIA of the tower/pedestal:










I now go and make a big hole in the reflector. Luckily, I was able to re-use the centering ring to keep the reflector in place:
















Now, after all of this work, I can finally test if my initial design ideas/measurements would hold true.






























Seeing that mechanically everything worked out, I wired the LED to test it with my bench supply:











When I first powered the LED from my bench supply, I almost felt down when I saw this almost perfect beam on the wall. Best of all, the focus point “is” adjustable like I hoped it would be:





So I started to work on wiring the driver (actual driver on the top right just in case you were wondering!).











I did a quick test and verified that the driver works fine:






Although the battery differential and the Vf times the current is not huge, I still wanted to give the driver some thermal relief, so I cut this small round Al piece to provide a thermal path back to the actual heatsink:






With thermal epoxy, I glued it to the board, then the board to the heatsink:




















I then added a few drops of two-part clear epoxy to keep the driver firmly in place:






I of course had to modify the stock switch to momentary, which the MaxFlex requires. I will do another tutorial on this “D” switch as it is very different than the “C” switch. I tested it to make sure the switch worked well: open circuit while not pressing the button, and short circuit while pressing the button (0.2 Ohms is the resistance of the probes):





















I then mated the switch to the heatsink:











and added the split ring – it will lock in place once I push everything down into the body:











Then apply some liberal amount of thermal paste, and push down in place. Clean excess paste once in place:






Install batteries, hit the switch, and pray that all that hard work paid off:











“A view to a kill” (futile attempt at James Bond humor …)











So the big question now, how does it work?

All photos with Canon Rebel XT on tripod. Manual focus, manual exposure, 2 sec @ F4 from Canon 24-105mm lens set to wide angle. MaxFlex set to the 1Amp table – shots on highest level.

Beamshot #1 – Pointing to the side of my neighbor:
-	Ambient





-	Surefire M6 with Regulated HDM6 LiIon pack – MN21 bulb





-	Donn’s QDOMM4D15







Beamshot #2 – Pointing to a group of trees across the street:
-	Ambient





-	Surefire M6 with Regulated HDM6 LiIon pack – MN21 bulb





-	Donn’s QDOMM4D15







Beamshot #3 – Pointing down the street, so that you can see more of the sidebeam:
-	Ambient





-	Surefire M6 with Regulated HDM6 LiIon pack – MN21 bulb





-	Donn’s QDOMM4D15






That is for now. Donn's new light will leave towards him first thing Monday morning. Thanks again Donn for letting me work on this custom light for you - it was fun :thumbsup:

Will


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## gadget_lover (Mar 15, 2008)

That's a beautiful piece of work Will. Your write up of the process was also impressive.


Thanks for sharing.

Daniel


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## kongfuchicken (Mar 15, 2008)

Impressive!
Does it come in hotrod red?


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## donn_ (Mar 15, 2008)

:twothumbs VERY big grin here!

Excellent work, and a fascinating pictorial.

I'm going to camp out on the front porch, and watch for the mailman!

:thanks:


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## donn_ (Mar 15, 2008)

It's the light on the right:


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## Mirage_Man (Mar 15, 2008)

WOW! Very nice work Will. :thumbsup:


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## Norm (Mar 15, 2008)

Mirage_Man said:


> WOW! Very nice work Will. :thumbsup:


+1 fantastic work and extremely well documented. :twothumbs
Norm


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## DaFABRICATA (Mar 15, 2008)

Very Nice Work!:twothumbs

Great pictures as well:naughty:

That thing looks like it throws nicely and has good flood to boot!


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## Long John (Mar 15, 2008)

A masterpiece Will, your pictures and explanations too :twothumbs...:rock:....:bow:


Best regards

____
Tom


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## Greg G (Mar 15, 2008)

Excellent work. I admire your skills. 

Thanks for the write-up.


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## chimo (Mar 15, 2008)

Beautiful work and an outstanding documentation and presentation of the process! Thanks for posting this.


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## skalomax (Mar 15, 2008)

OMG

Extremely nice, I would kill for one of these with a SSC P7 or K2T. 

(no, not really)


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## Fulgeo (Mar 15, 2008)

Excellent post. BTW could you describe the make and models of your lathe and other equipment you used?


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## kalkwasser (Mar 15, 2008)

Incredible workmanship and nice photography!

Cheers,
Kalk


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## LuxLuthor (Mar 15, 2008)

:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow:
:bow:
:bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:
:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:
​


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## LukeA (Mar 15, 2008)

Nice calipers. I have the same ones.


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## 270winchester (Mar 15, 2008)

:wow:

would you be willing to make a run of these at a price you deem fit?


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## donn_ (Mar 15, 2008)

It won't be easy to put the host parts together.



270winchester said:


> :wow:
> 
> would you be willing to make a run of these at a price you deem fit?


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## 270winchester (Mar 15, 2008)

donn_ said:


> It won't be easy to put the host parts together.



I have played around with Maglites enough to know how to do it. I made a Mag623 with a 10-amp external rocker switch long before it got caught on.


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## Supernam (Mar 15, 2008)

What a junker... Please spend more time on it next time.


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## X_Marine (Mar 15, 2008)

Ditto Lux..

Wow, Great light and even better pictorial..
It must have taken just about as long to photograph & post all this as making the light.
Really great job and very appreciated by all I'm sure.. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Many thanks 
X/BillyD..

ps, and of course we all hate donn_ now..


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## cmacclel (Mar 15, 2008)

Cool Will!! I have an Extra 3" head around here somewhere I guess I'll put it to use 


Cool to see someone else being the Guinea Pig for once!

Mac


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## wquiles (Mar 15, 2008)

Thank you guys for the comments - much appreciated 





Fulgeo said:


> Excellent post. BTW could you describe the make and models of your lathe and other equipment you used?


Cummins 7x12 Mini Lathe:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/103296

HF Mini Mill:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/152767

HF 4x7 Metal Cutting Bandsaw, something like this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93762

I also have a partially completed HF 8x12 with a Variable Speed 1HP motor, but it is all in pieces. I hope one of these days to get it running ... :naughty:




270winchester said:


> :wow:
> 
> would you be willing to make a run of these at a price you deem fit?


Donn was the one who procured all of the parts and had them HAIII coated (and it took him a LONG time to get all of the parts - he can speak more on this), so no, not likely that I would do a formal run on these. However, after making this one and figuring out how to make it work, it would take less time to build one-offs or variations of this one, depending on what the person has in mind, what parts he/she already has, etc.. 




gadget_lover said:


> That's a beautiful piece of work Will. Your write up of the process was also impressive.
> 
> Thanks for sharing.
> 
> Daniel





cmacclel said:


> Cool Will!! I have an Extra 3" head around here somewhere I guess I'll put it to use
> 
> Cool to see someone else being the Guinea Pig for once!
> 
> Mac


Thank you both!. 

I have received help from many here in the forums, but you and Daniel (gadget_lover) were the ones who helped me the most with my lathe/milling - so big thanks again to both of you :bow:

Will


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## donn_ (Mar 15, 2008)

Clarification: I didn't have anything to do with the ano..I just collected already plated parts. They're rare, and beautifully matched, considering they were done at different times, by different people, in different countries. I have a lot of HAIII parts, and these couldn't have been better matched if Brian and David had used the same tank.


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## ICUDoc (Mar 15, 2008)

BEST THREAD POSTED IN AGES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
THANKYOU for this awesome write-up and pics to help us beginners to see how it's done.
Any idea how far into the 3" reflector the LED die actually sits?
And did you just guess that distance? Bloody good guess!
Also is the switch current carrying or just swithching? The wires look very small?
Thanks again and I can't wait for the next one...


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## wquiles (Mar 15, 2008)

donn_ said:


> Clarification: I didn't have anything to do with the ano..I just collected already plated parts. They're rare, and beautifully matched, considering they were done at different times, by different people, in different countries. I have a lot of HAIII parts, and these couldn't have been better matched if Brian and David had used the same tank.


Thanks Donn for clarifying that 




ICUDoc said:


> BEST THREAD POSTED IN AGES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> THANKYOU for this awesome write-up and pics to help us beginners to see how it's done.
> Any idea how far into the 3" reflector the LED die actually sits?
> And did you just guess that distance? Bloody good guess!
> ...


Thank you!

Good observation on the wire gauge. Only two of the 3 carry any current - the 3rd wire is just for the switch. Resistance for the wire I used (30g) is about 105.2 Ohms per 1000ft, which is about 0.0088 Ohms/inch. 

So basically:
- Since both ends of the wire are soldered (no contact resistance), and 
- since I am running maybe 3Amps max or so that the MaxFlex would draw from the batteries to keep the 1Amp at the output as the batteries drain
- at a distance of maybe 3-4 inches
=> I might have something like 0.026 mOhm of resistance, which would be about 0.10 Volt drop across the length of wire - which is definitely not a problem, given that the normal contact resistance between battery contact and spring is more or less about 50 mOhms (0.050 Ohms) 

Will


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## LED Zeppelin (Mar 16, 2008)

Will, very nicely done!

Great attention to detail and no expense or effort spared!


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## cmacclel (Mar 16, 2008)

LukeA said:


> Nice calipers. I have the same ones.



I use the same set daily  You gotta love carbide tips!

Mac


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## LEDcandle (Mar 16, 2008)

ICUDoc said:


> BEST THREAD POSTED IN AGES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> THANKYOU for this awesome write-up and pics to help us beginners to see how it's done.



I'll have to wholeheartedly agree with that!! 

Superb pics and documentation.. I was looking intently at every picture and description. Fantastic job and fantastic results!! 

By the way, I guess once the split ring locks in place, the entire light engine is permanently fixed? Let's just say theoretically if you wanted to remove the module, could it be done? 

Nice work!!!


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## kurni (Mar 16, 2008)

nuff said


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## rizky_p (Mar 16, 2008)

really nice hotspot....

and it is amazing you can document it while working...


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## wquiles (Mar 16, 2008)

LEDcandle said:


> I'll have to wholeheartedly agree with that!!
> 
> Superb pics and documentation.. I was looking intently at every picture and description. Fantastic job and fantastic results!!
> 
> ...



Thanks!

It is not permanent, but it does take some work to put apart again. I would have to remove the batteries, unlock the switch, move it down somewhat (I have about 1/2" of wires in between the two parts) just enough to see the wires, and then cut the wires. If I had to, I can also cut a little of the soft plastic switch to get a better angle to cut the wires. I would then use a new switch when putting it back together. That was a tradeoff I made to come up with the largest heatsink possible (max heat transfer area to the body) and shortest wires. 

Will


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## Cydonia (Mar 16, 2008)

Really interesting - super pictures and quality work! :thumbsup:
donn_ is one of the top light connoisseurs around here that's for sure!


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## Icarus (Mar 16, 2008)

Excellent work Will and great pictures too!  ... :twothumbs


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## wquiles (Mar 17, 2008)

Icarus said:


> Excellent work Will and great pictures too!  ... :twothumbs



Thanks Freddy!

Will


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## PEU (Mar 17, 2008)

Norm said:


> +1 fantastic work and extremely well documented. :twothumbs
> Norm



+1 Excelent!!! :wave:


Pablo


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## wquiles (Mar 17, 2008)

PEU said:


> +1 Excelent!!! :wave:
> 
> Pablo



Muchas gracias Pablo 

Will


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## donn_ (Mar 19, 2008)

My baby's home:







2C Mag for scale.






Can't wait for dark! It should be foggy tonight, too. That'll be fun!

Thanks, again, to the modders!


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## LED Zeppelin (Mar 19, 2008)

Donn, you have the world's finest Delghi collection hands down!


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## wquiles (Mar 19, 2008)

donn_ said:


> Can't wait for dark! It should be foggy tonight, too. That'll be fun!
> 
> Thanks, again, to the modders!



Awesome - let us know how it does once it gets dark 

Will


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## yellow (Mar 20, 2008)

just in case anyone interrested into working with the 6-die reads in here also:

the Shoppe McR-XR 27 reflector, simply placed onto the Osram is already in the perfect height and centered. 
imho deeper than the big Mag reflector, so catching even more light, while smaller (fits into a smaller head host)


but to be honest: I was not blown away from the led. Sure its bright, but considering its cost and that it eats the same current than 6 Crees --> pointless!
(Got "QX 5D" bin)


Also had the same beam than shown at the beamshots: round!
Most everyone meant it should be oval, because of the placement of the 6 dies.
:thinking:




Question: that pic:


donn_ said:


>



is the Ostar one already at full focus? Just asking because wondering on the position of the emitter


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## donn_ (Mar 20, 2008)

> ..imho deeper than the big Mag reflector, so catching even more light..


Deeper?






That's the 3" Carley reflector next to an McR27-XR. 

The Ostar emitter is sitting approximately the thickness of the star above the bottom of the reflector. It's at it's tightest focus, and I assure you, this combination has a higher ratio of throw to side spill than the same emitter in a smaller and shallower reflector. I have two other Ostar lights, using 34mm Fraen emitters designed for this emitter, and they don't come close.


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## rufusdufus (Mar 20, 2008)

All the beamshots aren't working for me.
Could they be livened up.
Forget that they have mysteriously started to work for me.


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## wquiles (Mar 20, 2008)

donn_ said:


> Deeper?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks Donn - I was also scratching my head on this one 

Will


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## thom (Mar 20, 2008)

So, you didn't hit any planes did you. With the fog it must have been a BLAST thanks for sharing.

thom


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## LumenHound (Mar 20, 2008)

This is, by far, the best pictorial presentation of a step by step mod that's ever been posted on CPF. Over 70 pictures capturing all those steps. 

What an amazing job you've done just getting all the pics set up so we could all follow along during the build process. 

Saying a heart felt *Thank You* for the time you invested in creating this thread with that first post seems inadequate but I'll do it anyway.

*Thank you* for all the effort you put in to bringing us this great info!


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## yellow (Mar 21, 2008)

ad "deeper":
sure such a large reflector is physically bigger than the "small" SS one,
its more a theoretical approach: draw an imaginary line from die postion to the end of reflector.
the 27 features a smaller opening degree, so caches more of the main beam
but sure might be a difference between theory and actual use  (which I cant look at, lacking the giant one)

(PS: I have seen the info on the Frean reflectors for the Ostar and immediately dropped them from my mind. They have a way worse length/diameter ratio.
Also I really hate the output of the small 17mm Cree reflectors, so why should the Freans for an Ostar be better?
imho, Sandwiche's are the best available - for "normal" sized reflectors, thus small lights)


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## wquiles (Mar 21, 2008)

LumenHound said:


> This is, by far, the best pictorial presentation of a step by step mod that's ever been posted on CPF. Over 70 pictures capturing all those steps.
> 
> What an amazing job you've done just getting all the pics set up so we could all follow along during the build process.
> 
> ...


Thank you for your kind words 





yellow said:


> ad "deeper":
> sure such a large reflector is physically bigger than the "small" SS one,
> its more a theoretical approach: draw an imaginary line from die postion to the end of reflector.
> the 27 features a smaller opening degree, so caches more of the main beam
> ...



Ahh - yes, I understand what you meant earlier. The old 45 mm LED reflector that Don made/designed (which I used in my McG45 custom light) was so awesome because it also was deep when looking at its length/dia ratio. I think that the reason the Carly 3" works so well is just brute force - it is just HUGE and because it also has a very nice parabolic curve. 

Another reflector that "should" work well is the deep reflector that FiveMega sells:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/165465

Will


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## LED Zeppelin (Mar 21, 2008)

yellow said:


> ad "deeper":
> sure such a large reflector is physically bigger than the "small" SS one,
> its more a theoretical approach: draw an imaginary line from die postion to the end of reflector.
> the 27 features a smaller opening degree, so caches more of the main beam
> ...



The McR27XR is an excellent reflector - for the Cree. Placed on top of an Ostar it is a decent reflector, but does not beat the Fraen designed for the Ostar.

I have a bench setup for testing, and using a QX bin Ostar mounted on a brass slab driven at 750 mA, I measure the following (about 38" between emitter and Meterman):
- McR27XR: 4970 Lux, beam dia. 40"
- Fraen Ostar reflector, narrow beam: 6550 Lux, beam dia 80"

The beam characterisics of the Cree and Ostar differ greatly, the Ostar has a much wider viewing angle. With the McR27XR, much of the spill is restricted by the deep reflector which is not the case with the narrow angle Cree.

So while the McR27XR/Ostar combination is surprisingly good, and even acceptable if the smaller diameter is crucial, it does not outperform the Fraen empirically.


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## nutz_about_lights (Mar 22, 2008)

Wow... Thanks for the detailed instructions! I doubt I will have the patience to make a beautiful light like yours. So I'll just admire for the time being...


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## yellow (Mar 22, 2008)

> I measure the following (about 38" between emitter and Meterman):
> - McR27XR: 4970 Lux, beam dia. 40"
> - Fraen Ostar reflector, narrow beam: 6550 Lux, beam dia 80"


sure on these data? :thinking:
because 1.5 times the Lux value with 4 times the area illuminated seems somehow impossible.

Even if it were the other way round - just 1.5 times brighter for the way smaller beam - that would show that the reflector does not harmonize.

Also it is right that it cuts of spill, but doing that, it grabs more light of the bright main light cone and thus _should_ offer a brighter center spot (compared to a focusing device that has the same opening degree! One that is double floody _should_ not stand any chance.)
((notice the _should_ pls)  



PS, just noticed I did not type anything to the "build-guide": Sorry. Totally perfect, as anyone in here also agrees


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## LED Zeppelin (Mar 22, 2008)

yellow said:


> sure on these data? :thinking:
> because 1.5 times the Lux value with 4 times the area illuminated seems somehow impossible.



Yes, sure on the data. And it's what my eyes see as well.

The key is the 130 degree viewing angle of the Ostar vs. the 90 of the Cree. A reflector designed for the Cree does not have to focus the light emitted from 90 - 130 degrees, and thus has the narrow conical shape. An Ostar reflector is much more parabolic, to properly focus the wider beam.

Imagine a side-emitter placed in the reflectors. The Fraen would work well, but the XRE reflector would have a low angle of incidence and the light would bounce around the reflector a couple times before dispersing.

Otherwise why have different reflectors for different LEDs? A reflector designed for a specific LED will harness the entire viewing angle, and if designed for throw will have a parabolic shape _throughout that angle_. It is true that a deeper reflector that maintains the parabola will generate more throw and less spill, so the depth is a compromise between throw and width of spill beam.

As noticed the Fraen is a shallow reflector, and thus the very wide beam. It was designed for general use from fixed lighting to automotive. It would be nice to have an extended version which was not quite so wide, and focued more light into the spot. But it is compact and the Ostar is bright enough to throw by brute force and deliver gobs of spill simultaneously.

Back on topic, it will be hard to beat Will/Donn's 3" Carly/Ostar combo for throw from an Ostar. The reflector is parabolic, smooth, and focused. And it maintains that parabolic shape throughout the viewing angle of the Ostar.


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## tanasit (Jul 13, 2008)

I may come in a litle late but nevertheless I have to ditto ALL the praises to Will for his absolute effort and superp presentations which looks like a text book in Flashlight Mod 302.

:twothumbs:bow::rock::goodjob::wow::thumbsup:

Tanasit


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## wquiles (Jul 13, 2008)

Thanks much 

Will


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## Evil Twin (Jul 20, 2008)

Wow! The amount of work that went into this project is simply amazing. Awesome job! :twothumbs


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## yaesumofo (Jul 21, 2008)

Very nice work. Very impressive beam.
Bigger light sources clearly need larger reflectors.
Verynice write up and images too.
Very cool.
Yaesumofo


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## Black Rose (Jul 21, 2008)

Excellent write up, workmanship, and results.


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## wquiles (Jul 22, 2008)

Thank you guys for the kind words 

Will


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## foxtrot824 (Sep 9, 2009)

while it's been a while I think it is still worth mentioning that the pictures are fantastic! good looking light too.


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## Techjunkie (Sep 9, 2009)

Wow, Will, Incredible! Fantastic pictoral as always. I think I enjoy viewing your builds more than making my own!

You should start a home thread I can subscribe to and update it every time you post another new build thread so I never miss one.


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## wquiles (Sep 10, 2009)

Techjunkie said:


> Wow, Will, Incredible! Fantastic pictoral as always. I think I enjoy viewing your builds more than making my own!
> 
> You should start a home thread I can subscribe to and update it every time you post another new build thread so I never miss one.



Thank you 

Here is a summary of most of my projects here in the forums:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3081570&postcount=76

Will


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