# questions and observations about armytek for interior home renovation.



## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 9, 2016)

See later post, "My experience with Armytek headlamps": http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?427514-My-experience-with-Armytek-headlamps


I recently received the armytek wizard pro v2 XM-L2 (warm). Wow, that's a mouthful. Anyway, I've been really happy with it so far except for the battery life at brightest settings. I dropped it in a pool on purpose, dropped it on concrete several times by accident, and have been generally impressed with the performance. I have used it mainly in a house I'm remodeling and it is great at finding imperfections in the drywall and paint. Maybe a little too good because you just can't see those issues under normal interior lighting conditions. Anyway, I'm getting a little off topic so here come the questions/observations:

I see a lot of folks with some serious issues and it's making me a little nervous about my recent orders.

I just ordered the armytek Tiara A1 pro v2 XP-L (warm). I also just ordered the armytek wizard pro V3 HXP-50 (warm). Both were ordered directly from the source in China because I had trouble finding them elsewhere and I had not read the bad reviews yet. I only based this decision to order on my experience with the current armytek headlamp I own.

Has anyone completely disassembled these armytek lights or any armytek lights to check quality? I think that would most likely happen when someone has a defective one and didn't want to waste time sending it back. I enjoy taking things apart with my son so I can show him how they work and gleen some quality knowledge.

I will add to this thread when I get the new lights…..If I ever get the new lights. My order went through PayPal to a Yang Lishi or something strange but I got confirmation from armytek that my order was placed correctly. Also I read, 

“Armytek ships your package DDU ("Delivered Duty Unpaid") and does not collect the VAT, duties and/or taxes and cannot predict what your particular charges may be.”

I'm a little concerned with that statement. Is customs going to hold my headlamps in some NY port until I pay some fee? 

Any experience you folks could provide will be much appreciated. I want you all to know that I am a registered professional engineer and I will be completely honest about this entire experience from the purchase all the way through use and possible failure of these lights. Please don't let the fact that I'm an engineer keep you from posting because I don't know everything as is evident from this post. I'm sure there are other engineers in this comunity whether or not they choose to admit it. The only reason I even mentioned it is because I wanted to introduce myself and let you know that I am bound by ethics. I will be completely honest about this entire experience.

If anyone has any good headlamp suggestions regarding models that would be good for interior renovation please let me know. I like lights that are pretty warm, floody and not heavy. 

I'm sorry if I have asked questions that have been answered before and I apologise for the long winded first post.


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## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 9, 2016)

Oh, the wizard v3 XHP50 was ordered 4/5/2016 and the Tiara was ordered on 4/72016.

I'm just putting this stuff on record so we all know. I ordered them separately and paid $10 for shipping on each headlamp.

I guess we'll see how it goes and until then if you guys could offer up any experience I would appreciate that.


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## eh4 (Apr 10, 2016)

The body and hardware are great, if you can disassemble the potted driver capsule then you're on another level from me an I can't contribute. 
I've heard of failed clicky switches, I've got one that is smooth and one that has a little bit of arthritic creak to it, but I haven't seen anything that's mechanically wrong with either of the two V3 Predators that I now have. 

The first one I've got is a next to last generation model v3, the strobe failed almost immediately, the second one is seemingly the latest generation and everything seems perfect. 

I haven't returned my first light because I didn't want the strobe anyways and I'm down with doing long term product testing, so long as the light keeps reliably doing what I actually need it to do... got ten years on the warranty, 
and I'm hoping to eventually provide enough constructive feedback to help ensure that the 10 year warranty is usable.

My impression is that it's a great company with some unfortunate, awkward growing pains, mostly noticed and agonized over on specialist sites like here.


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## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 10, 2016)

How can you tell what generation they are? Is there some way to distinguish between production runs other than the version number?


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## eh4 (Apr 11, 2016)

In my case, I know I've got a previous version V3 and a current version V3 because the XB-H led one switches between line 1 and line 2 with 3 head loosen/tighten cycles, while the more recent ("current") HI version V3 takes 5 loosen/tighten cycles to switch between Line 1 and line 2. 
I only know a bit about the Predator models, I've got no experience with Wizards or anything else.

It stands to reason that most of the offerings from Baracudda to Prime are all variations of the original Predator model, except the Wizard, that one seems to be a separate, divergent branch, no doubt based on the same buck driver for standard and buck/boost driver for Pro models as the others, but the Wizard and Tiara headlamps seem to be a significant branch off from the others.

I'm a ZL fanatic for the angle head lights myself, H600w Mk II is hard to beat... I'm seriously eyeing the ZL H600Fc MkIII.
Five ZL in the last 3 years, 2 as gifts, one used and then given as a hand me down, 3 were AA, two are 18650, zero problems.


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## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 11, 2016)

Does ZL not have any warm options for headlamps? I see neutral nothing with a CCT 4000 or lower.

The reason I ask is because I frequently have pure white walls and ceilings during construction and it can blind you. It's just more relaxing with a warm light. I can see how something more neutral would be better for the woods though. I'm going to buy a ZL to compare. Just need to decide on a model. I'm sure they make great headlamps judging by the reading I've done.


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## WigglyTheGreat (Apr 11, 2016)

http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fc-III-High-CRI-Floody-Neutral-White-18650-Headlamp_p_172.html This might be a good option for you at CCT 4000k. I have been eyeballing it too for a while too. 85 cri, very light weight, and a nice beam, with a great UI.


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## eh4 (Apr 11, 2016)

Yeah ZL H600Fc Mk III is the one I'm excited about too, it's the warmest and highest CRI Zebralight that I've heard of.


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## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 12, 2016)

I think I'm missing the spread numbers. Is this floody? Do they have hotspot and spill angles listed?


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## Str8stroke (Apr 12, 2016)

I just clicked on the thread because of your handle. Lazyspacetruck! that is great. 

You should be happy with your purchases. All of my AT lights have been excellent. I would suggest you spend a few days learning the User Interface. Most of all the "complaints" and or "problems" I have read are directly related to User Error! Just a heads up there. 

You will not have to pay any taxes or duties for a package coming to the States. They make that general statement/disclaimer because they ship world wide and they have no clue what strange laws or taxes a light might encounter at the Import location. So it is more of a "know your local laws", "don't point this directly in your eyes", "don't eat the packaging", "caution light gets hot on high" kinda statement. Ya dig? 

Welcome to the Forum Lazyspacetruck. I so want to make it LazyspacetruckER!


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## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 12, 2016)

Thanks Str8stoke, it's good to hear others that haven't had issues with AT. Lazyspacetruck started a while back when I got older. It was Slapdonkey for a long time until people started stealing it.


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## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 12, 2016)

Just received email from AT that they shipped the Tiara.

Shipping method: Airmail
Shipment date: 04/12/2016, 07:24 AM

It's a little strange that Tiara shipped first even though I ordered the wizrd v3 first. They were both listed as "in stock" at the point of sale. I guess orders are not processed in the order they were received. 

It may seem like I'm being overly critical but that is not my intention. I just want to record this experience for posterity. If you are a Chinese company claiming to be Canadian and don't even have a warehouse outside of China, you should expect to be put under a microscope. However, I guess there is a possibility that a Canadian engineer or designer provided specifications for these lights under contract with a Chinese manufacturing corporation. I guess I can try to look up how Armytek is incorporated and track that down. It's most likely public record if it was done in the United States or Canada.

It does seem to me that they would at least have a warehouse in the US or Canada. However, warehouses don't run themselves and I understand if the designer didn't want to deal with that. Just an observation. I'll let everybody know if I find out more. My time is limited but I'll see what I can do to satisfy my curiosity.


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## Str8stroke (Apr 12, 2016)

If you search here, this (AT Canada/China) thing has been covered pretty much so already. The only thing that bugs me about AT, is a minor thing. Their website notoriously has outdated/wrong specs. I think some of that is a lost in translation issue. Or they post a light as "coming soon/in production" or something like that and a year later, nothing new on it. 
Otherwise, I have really liked my lights. I can't stress enough how important it is to learn the UI. Read it several times. Make sure you have the light set to the proper battery too. I had one act funky as all get out, until I reset the light and put it in the proper battery mode. That is 3.0 volt vs 3.7 volt cells. It could have also been partly the battery I was using.


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## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 12, 2016)

Great information. I set mine for the correct voltage and I think I have the menu system down. I'm not sure what it does if it is expecting a different voltage from a different battery chemistry or configuration but I suspect it would throw a fault code or just act crazy. Mine was set for the correct voltage from the start but I set it again just to make sure. Thanks for the info. Very helpful.


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## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 13, 2016)

So AT just told me that the wizard pro v3 HXP50 warm is a pre-order item and that was on their website. It was listed in stock and is still listed in stock. Wonderful.


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## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 13, 2016)

OK, Sandra just said that if it was listed "out of stock" that it would be impossible to place an order. 

So I guess the shopping cart web template they use does not have an option for "pre-order". If I were them I would not accept pre-orders until this is resolved.

Sandra also said, "we will ship this item within some days". I guess we will see what that means eventually.


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## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 19, 2016)

I thought I would let everyone know that this is available because if you search directly on the site it is hit or miss.

http://goinggear.com/armytek-wizard-pro-v3-xhp50-warm-1x18650-2150-lumen-headlamp.html

I am in no way affiliated with this website or the manufacturer of this product.


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## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 20, 2016)

The one I purchased from goinggear should be here tomorrow according to the tracking data.


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## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 20, 2016)

Sandra said that Armytek will be opening a warehouse in Ontario "very soon". If they actually do that and allow USA customers to ship their defective lights to Canada, they would be in a much better position in my opinion. I would probably sooner throw a light in the trash before sending it to China for warranty repair or replacement unless I just wanted to know how that no hassle warranty system works. I sure it includes some hassle.


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## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 21, 2016)

I received what was supposed to be an Armytek Wizard pro v3 XHP50 warm from Goinggear. They sent me an XP-L. I called to try and get the correct headlamp sent out immediately but I was informed that they could not do that until they receive the screwed up order they sent me. They did NOT offer to put a hold on my credit card to get one sent immediately. They did NOT offer any sort of discount to compensate me for my time. I normally get paid for my time just like they do. I'm not looking for a hand out. I just expect companies to act like they care when they make a mistake. Maybe offer the customer a $5 discount or offer other solutions like I just mentioned.

So now I will package this light back up, print out the label, and put it in the mail. 

If I wanted the light I ordered from Goinggear I would have to send this one back which would probably take a few days, wait for them to put the correct light in the mail which would probably be another day or two, then wait for it to arrive which would probably take another few days. So from the time I ordered the light to the time I actually received it would be almost 2 weeks even though I paid extra for first class mail so that I could have it quickly.

People frequently ask me why I order so much from Amazon when I could support small business. Well, this is a good example. Amazon would already have the correct product on the way and I could wait to send out the wrong item or be charged for it if I just kept it. 

I'm sorry to all the members here for the long winded rant but I promised to document this experience and this is part of it.

I'm leaning towards just waiting on the one I ordered from China. The other option would be to order another light from Goinggear. I haven't decided. Waiting on their replacement process is not going to happen though.


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## Lazyspacetruck (Apr 22, 2016)

I may just keep the XP-L Wizard pro v3 (warm) I was sent from goinggear. It seems to be a good headlamp and is probably more practical than the XHP50. I will still receive the XHP50 from China (hopefully) but now I can compare another light. Here are some preliminary observations for the wizard pro v3 warm XP-L:

1.) It is longer than the XM-L2 v2 warm
2.) The light is warmer with a little more yellow tint
3.) The head of the light has less mass and gets warmer faster
4.) The button is easier to operate with eccentric force compared to the v2 XM-L2. This means you don't have to press directly on the center of the button to operate and make it click.

That's all I can do for now. I'll have more


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 1, 2016)

I received the Armytek Tiara A1 Pro v2 XP-L (Warm). It is a good light. I've been using eneloops in it and it works well. It's nice to have a headlamp that can run on AA. I ordered 14500s to try that out but I bet it's very similar if not exactly the same as the wizard pro v3 XP-L I received from goinggear but with shorter runtime and possibly gets warmer even faster. I'm still waiting on the XHP50 warm.


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 1, 2016)

One minor thing to check if you use a Armytek metal clip is that the small tab is touching the battery cylinder. I initially thought they did it on purpose to keep the clip from sliding around a cylinder. However, it did not keep mine from sliding and I now have a scratch through the coating about a quarter inch long. It's not a big deal but it's something that's easily fixed if you deal with it before you use the clip. I just bent the tab back a little with some needle nose pliers so it doesn't quite touch the cylinder.


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 2, 2016)

Just received the Armytek Wizard pro V3 HXP-50. I don't have a ton of time right now but I can tell you it is NOT brighter than the XP-L V3 I have. It is warmer though and has a yellow buttonbutton instead of white. There are two max settings that I can find. So all together it has 3 firefly, 3 main, and 2 max settings plus the strobes. I don't have a unique user manual because they don't have one specifically for this model that I can find. The website just links the same old manual with the same name as my XP-L V3. I'm using 18650s that run some serious amps so that's not the issue. Maybe I'm missing something.


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## gyzmo2002 (May 2, 2016)

Take a look at this thread for the UI: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/414744

Around post 80


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 2, 2016)

From everything I've read including that thread I'm doing it correctly. It's just not any brighter then my XP - L.


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## gyzmo2002 (May 2, 2016)

If you are sure you are in turbo 2 (higher setting), where are the extra 800lm advertised? I will order it when the new batch will be available if the comments are positives.


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## scs (May 2, 2016)

Lazyspacetruck,

It'd be most helpful if you can replicate or ask a mod to relocate this thread in the corresponding Armytek subforum, so more people can see others' experience with Armytek products.
With regard to your GG shopping experience, I can understand your dissatisfaction. I agree that your payment for expedited shipping should be reimbursed. I also understand GG's position on sending out the correct light only after receiving the incorrect one from you. It confirms the mistake and protects them.


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 2, 2016)

I don't really care about going gear anymore. I have bigger fish to fry. If someone wants to relocate the thread they are welcome to do so.


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 2, 2016)

Maybe the warmer tint is throwing me off. I'm testing against ceilings and walls. I'll give an update when I can shine it against the trees at night. I'm not super blown away though I can tell you that. It's still a great light but I prefer the white button on my other two Wizard pros. I'll have more soon.


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## Lou Minescence (May 2, 2016)

Lazyspacetruck,
I have to laugh after reading post 20. I recieved a XHP 50 V3 warm Wizard by mistake from GG instead of the XML2 V3 warm I ordered. Possibly the one I ordered could have been an XPL also. The writeup on the web page was talking about either emitter in the specs. Confusing. I had sent an email asking which emitter it was but no response. I figured either one was ok. To my surprise I didnt get either one !
Any how I used the XHP50 for about 2 hours before I realized the mistake. Im going to keep it. Im just a little miffed at the fact mine only works perfect on high with non protected 18650's. The light is fantastic when fed the naked 18650's. 
Maybe I got your light and you got mine. [emoji12]


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 2, 2016)

Funny. Does your XHP50 have a yellow button like mine? Mine says "pro" in tiny letters and the UI matches but I had no clue it would have a yellow button. It's not a big deal I'm just curious.


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 2, 2016)

I use unprotected cells all the time. Protected batteries won't run as much current. I rely on my devices to provide the protection and use silicone sleves for the cells when they are not in the devices or chargers. 20 amps is a lot of juice at that voltage and arcing on a keychan or shorting continuously until explosion or venting can't be much fun. However, if there is reliable protection circuitry in these lights, it should be no problem.


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 2, 2016)

Does anyone here know how much current the circuitry and HXP-50 demands at the highest settings? If someone could tell me the amps and volts they run on highest settings I would appreciate it very much.


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 2, 2016)

I found the cree XHP50 specs. Now I need the circuitry specs for the wizard pro v3. Do they exist in the public domain?

By the way, my brain is now telling me the XHP-50 v3 is indeed brighter than the XP-L v3. I wish I had more sophisticated testing equipment. I guess I could rig something on the tail of the battery housing/negative battery terminal and put my fluke multimeter in the circuit.


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## Lou Minescence (May 2, 2016)

Lazyspacetruck said:


> Funny. Does your XHP50 have a yellow button like mine? Mine says "pro" in tiny letters and the UI matches but I had no clue it would have a yellow button. It's not a big deal I'm just curious.



Yes I have the yellow button.
I ordered the V3 XML2 because I figured it would be bulletproof. I kept the XHP50 because I was amazed at the output and I love the feel of the switch. It I too soft to prevent accidental pocket activation but its nice to use.

My Wizard draws 3.7 amps at the tail cap. I wouldn't think there should be a problem running protected batteries but there is for me.


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 2, 2016)

I wish I could help. I don't have any protected cells.

Now that it's later in the evening, I can tell that the XHP-50 v3 is brighter than the XP-L v3 or the XM-L2 v2.

Seems to me you did just fine. I have three different Wizard pros and the XHP50 is stacking up very well. They are all awesome but the newest one is great so far. I left the light in turbo 2 with an unprotected cell until it started regulating. The regulation doesn't seem to follow the same intervals as the preset modes. It steps down in small and even increments. I like that. The others do the same.


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## Lou Minescence (May 2, 2016)

My XHP version is pro.
I also have a Wizard pro warm V1.5 
Its a nice light. It only takes 18650's and so do my Zebralights. I had to get this V3 Wizard pro because it can take CR123's in cold weather.


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 2, 2016)

Yea, not being able to use the light on turbo with protected cell is definitely a con. What are the specs for your protected cells? 3.7 amps seems like it should be possible for some or all protected cells but I haven't read specs for protected cells in a long time. I just discounted them and moved on. Aren't they protected in the 10amp range?


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 2, 2016)

I've noticed that a lot of companies that rewrap or protect cells exaggerate the specs heavily. That's why I stick with unprotected LG, Panasonic, and folks that actually make the cells instead of getting some crappy rewrapped cell. Some do a great job culling batteries, adding protection, and rewrapping but others will take your money for an old battery that came from a discarded laptop.


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## Lou Minescence (May 2, 2016)

Ive got some Eagletacs that are Panasonic based and an Olight cell that is LG high drain based. Some are older (2 year ) and some are new. My 5 year old AW IMR 1600 cels and other non protected cells all work flawless.

At this point I'm just going to watch threads and see if anyone else has the same experience with Wizards and protected batteries.


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## scs (May 2, 2016)

Perhaps AT has gone the 12V XHP50 route and an unprotected cell is needed to power it, just as one is needed to power ZL's 12V XHP35s.


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## Lou Minescence (May 2, 2016)

scs said:


> Perhaps AT has gone the 12V XHP50 route and an unprotected cell is needed to power it, just as one is needed to power ZL's 12V XHP35s.



That's what I'm thinking. If that's true, I see why Zebralight made it impossible to put a protected cell in their light. 
When my Wizard "quits" with the protected cell, it is hard to get it to work again after unscrewing and tightening the tail cap to reset it. The light wants to restart in the same memorized mode that made it quit and it happens again before you can go to a lower normal mid mode that works. A person could easily think something is wrong. Take out the protected cell and drop in a non protected and all is good.
I'm still going to wait to see other people experiences.


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 2, 2016)

All the battery can do is provide the amperage @ voltage it was built for. Chances are the circuitry senses that the voltage or amperage drops below the threshold that would damage a cell or not properly run the light at the current setting.

You should just man up and short the cell with your multimeter. Watch how fast the amps drop and how low they drop. Let's test this so called "protection".

I'm joking don't do that. I would do it but that's just me. If I was worried about a multimeter fuse I would solder small rare earth magnets to both ends of a wire rated for 10 amps and put my DC amp clamp on it.

But waiting on others is a good method as well.


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 2, 2016)

I've been walking around with my Armytek pipe bombs strapped to my head...... My wife is cutting her usual look out of the corner of her eyes. 

Anyway, it's dark here now and the XHP50 pro v3 is definitely brighter than my other two wizards. I can't speak to actual lumen output but it's pretty darn bright. I like it. I have left the light on the maximum setting and watched as it regulated or stepped down and came back up. I did this a few times and took the battery out when it first started stepping down power. I figured that would be about as hot as the battery would get. The room temp is 72 degrees. The battery was hot but nothing alarming. I'll have my wife post if I blow my face off.


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 3, 2016)

I've been messing with the XHP50 pro v3 warm and I found an interesting issue. At first I thought it was a UI/circuitry problem but I'm almost certain it's just a button issue.

Symptom: the light does unexpected crap when I press and hold the button from various states.

It turns out that even though the button has clicked, and you are holding it down with approximately the same force required to click, the switch disconnects simulating a single click/release. This is the easiest to click Wizard I have. But if I don't use approximately the same hold force I use on my XP-L v3 pro (warm), the symptom occurs. It's not a deal breaker, just a slight annoyance. It may **** some folks off though or make them think the wizard is screwed up. 

At this point I've gone through about 10 unprotected batteries just messing around with the XHP50 (mostly LG 2500mah 20A). It has done well overall.


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 3, 2016)

I wish the XHP50 had the same white button/switch as my XP-L. This yellow button is a little too easy to click. When I saw the color I was a little dissapointed but now I'm thinking the pro white button is harder to push on purpose to protect against accidental switching (pocket carry). Maybe the factory ran out of white buttons and started putting yellow buttons on the pro lights. Or maybe it's just a quality control issue. Or maybe I'm thinking too much about a stupid button.


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## Lazyspacetruck (May 4, 2016)

Let's talk about batteries for a moment since it looks like the newest XHP-50 v3 can utilize more amps than a lot of protected cells provide. 

Buying unprotected 18650s has been a pain in the butt for many people. There are seemingly more fakes and rewraped junk in the market than genuine versions from true manufacturers. I'm sure most on here know this. Others may not. It seems one problem is that you would need to be a huge company and buy a ridiculous amount of batteries to get their attention. The manufacturers also have liability concerns since these batteries can be volitile if improperly used or handled. It is my understanding that they primarily sell to other large companies that use their batteries in products that provide protection either on the battery itself or in a battery pack, or in devices with advanced protection circuitry.

I have been assembling high powered battery packs since I was a kid trying to make remote control cars faster and airplanes have a power to weight ratio that is decent. Well we finally have cells with a power to weight ratio that makes a lot more things possible and economically feasible (I bet first person view drone racing will start getting more attention over the coming years). On the flip side of the coin we also have the masses of people who know very little about powerful batteries and think you can just pull one out of your vaporizer and put it in your pocket with your spare change and car keys. You see these mental giants on the news when they blow their balls off. 

All I can say is try to find cells that others seem to think work well. Usually they are not rewrapped but may have another sticker or something over the original numbers on the cell. It seems the resellers want some credit for bringing you a genuine cell from the manufacturer and the manufacturer wants a legal buffer from the general public. 

Watch out for stuff with inflated ratings that seem far better than the rest of the field. Stuff like that does exist but getting them as a consumer is unlikely. Frequently the rated amp hours and current are a complete fantacy or they will give you a max rating that can't be sustained for more than a millisecond. 

Good Luck


See later post "My experience with Armytek headlamps": http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?427514-My-experience-with-Armytek-headlamps


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