# Foward Click for solarforce L2?



## bikenjam (Sep 9, 2009)

Does anyone here know of a forward click switch that will work in a Solarforce L2 tail cap?

thanks


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## kosPap (Sep 10, 2009)

damn... I do not have my flashdive to get the links of my switch mods...

do search in this subforum for 2 of my threads..one must be soemthing liek "various flashlight forward clickie mods"
and "solarforce forawrd click mod"

for a dro-in solution try loacting the Fenix or HetBeam forward click switch nodule..it drops right in...


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## old4570 (Sep 11, 2009)

HERE


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## kosPap (Sep 11, 2009)

indded but he is going to need a board to solder that on...have you tried the regular switch SLF board compatibility?


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## bikenjam (Sep 11, 2009)

"have you tried the regular switch SLF board compatibility?"

What is SLF?


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## old4570 (Sep 11, 2009)

You need to drill a hole , solder a bridge , and cut the nipple of the inside of the rubber boot ...

Hmmm - Sounds like a DIY guide needed .


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## fatts (Sep 11, 2009)

I'm pretty sure a Jetbeam Pro Forward Clicky is a straightforward drop in replacement. At least it was for my Spiderfire L2 host.


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## kosPap (Sep 11, 2009)

yes others have said that...and I can veriofy by my mods that you need to remove the rubber nootie nipple...But I use a selfmade spacer to posotion propery tha switch assembly and regulate height/sensitivity

old4570...you I do want one on the SLF board


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## Black Rose (Sep 11, 2009)

fatts said:


> I'm pretty sure a Jetbeam Pro Forward Clicky is a straightforward drop in replacement. At least it was for my Spiderfire L2 host.


Where do you get the Jetbeam switch?

I have 2 Spiderfire L2 hosts and absolutely hate the feel of the switches.


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## old4570 (Sep 11, 2009)

1 Is the location for drilling a hole , and to bridge the switch to the spring .
2 Is using one of the original holes , which is contact for outer contact ring on the edge of the board , this should be fine ... 

Pictures are of a forward clicky mod I did to Solarforce tailcap ...

Pull the old switch off , then use the new forward switch to carefully locate the hole that needs drilling , once drilled , solder the switch into one of the original holes [ yes you'l know which one ] . Then bridge the other one to the spring .


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## Linger (Sep 11, 2009)

Jetbeam forward switch (included as extra with my pro ST ibs), also available from Bugoutgearusa $6 (poster in marketplace)
MG PLI forward switch (included as extra with my PLI)

are both drop-in replacements that I have used

With shorter cells a spacer or a longer spring threaded into the switch spring will cut down on 'de bounce.'

-L


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## kosPap (Sep 12, 2009)

and for reference I should add that the Spiderfire Tailstanding Switch that is solf in Ebay has a PCb that can readily accept the forward switch old4570 uses...







Left the Fenix one, middle the spiderfire board, right a completed mod

the same again


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## fatts (Sep 12, 2009)

Black Rose said:


> Where do you get the Jetbeam switch?
> 
> I have 2 Spiderfire L2 hosts and absolutely hate the feel of the switches.



I purchased mine from Brite Lumens. It's called the "JET III Pro I.B.S. forward clickie switch" on his website. 

As _kosPap_ mentioned though, you will have to trim the existing rubber boot nipple, but that's simple enough. I forgot about this step, so perhaps you can't quite call it a straight drop-in replacement. My apologies.


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## Black Rose (Sep 12, 2009)

Just an FYI.

The forward click switch for the Romisen RC-N3 can be installed in the tailcap of the Spiderfire X-03/L2. I haven't tried it in my Solarforce L2s yet.

Even though the spring is much shorter than on the stock Spiderfire switch, I was able to use it with an 18650 cell powering a 5-mode R2 drop-in.

Can't beat the $1.35 price tag either


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## kosPap (Sep 13, 2009)

are you sure you are talking about te N3? I tried it in L2. C1, and the spiderfire tailstanding tailcap and it is nowhere near....

maybe the F4 one?


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## Black Rose (Sep 13, 2009)

Yep, it is the switch from an RC-N3.

Bought it from Shiningbeam as a spare for my RC-N3 flashlight. 

I just put it in there to see if it would work in the regular Spiderfire X-03 tailcap and it did.


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## Kalzoaman (Dec 4, 2009)

Greetings all, im new so please have some understanding. I have just purchased a new solarforce L2P and would like to order a foward clickie too! I also bought a Cree R2-WC 3-Mode drop-in. any idea if this is a good choice and easy install http://www.lighthound.com/McGizmo-McClicky-Switch-Module-with-rubber-boot_p_1232.html

I am a little confused any help would be great


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## Winx (Dec 4, 2009)

Kalzoaman said:


> Greetings all, im new so please have some understanding. I have just purchased a new solarforce L2P and would like to order a foward clickie too! I also bought a Cree R2-WC 3-Mode drop-in. any idea if this is a good choice and easy install http://www.lighthound.com/McGizmo-McClicky-Switch-Module-with-rubber-boot_p_1232.html
> 
> I am a little confused any help would be great



:welcome:

I disassembled my L2P tailcap and tried to put McClicky somehow with the original parts. I can't figure how it could be possible without parts from the other tailcap. I suggest to buy Spiderfire X03 tailcap because it uses about the same size rubber boot (diameter 16mm). You'll need to shorten the nipple of the rubber/silicone boot. Look for "Spiderfire Clicky Switch for Surefire G&P" at ebay. I believe Spiderfire S1 tailcap in solarforcestore.com is the same.

I made a forward clicky mod for L2P with parts listed here. Link to KD forward clicky. Solarforcestore.com sells also the tailstanding tailcap. The 2-mode board used in Spiderfire tailcap isn't good for KD clicky switch. It might work but I'm not sure about it.

Another choice could be McClicky switch with adapter from Electronguru. I don't think that would fit either without mods. You'll probably need some washers to rubber boot side and the retainer ring from L2P to lengthen the switch module.

28mm*2mm multilayer coated lens from Kaidomain is a good replacement for a normal glass lens.


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## Norm (Dec 4, 2009)

These are a direct replacement  *FS: custom made forward-clicky switch for SF P/G/C/Z tailcap*
Norm


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## Kalzoaman (Dec 4, 2009)

Hey Thanks, what do you guy think of the dx Cree R2-WC 3-Mode + 0~100%

K


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## Norm (Dec 4, 2009)

Kalzoaman said:


> Hey Thanks, what do you guy think of the dx Cree R2-WC 3-Mode + 0~100%
> 
> K


I personally don't like lights that ramp, give me three discrete levels and I'm happy. Ramping is too slow 
Norm


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## fatts (Dec 5, 2009)

Norm said:


> These are a direct replacement  *FS: custom made forward-clicky switch for SF P/G/C/Z tailcap*
> Norm



A little expensive when you can the Jetbeam equivalents for much less.


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## Linger (Dec 5, 2009)

*Thread title is forward clicky, lets keep it focused so DM51 doesn't have to clean up**

Netkidz custom Surefire clicky is a screw in fit to Solarforce L2_ (slightly recessed button, can tail stand). I have a 5 pack and a 10 pack of replacement switches from DX, I've also used JetBeam, MG switches with the SolarForce caps (I burnt a few cheap switches out with WA incan bulbs and 'borrowed' my spare Jetbeam and MG parts until I could repair them). The point of all this, is I've used a range of internal components and the NetKidz clicky is the best. 3A rating is great, though I've custom made Incan modes.
I'll have to try the Moddoo / EG McClicky pack too, the high amp rating on that one is appealing.


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## Black Rose (Dec 5, 2009)

Winx said:


> I suggest to buy Spiderfire X03 tailcap because it uses about the same size rubber boot (diameter 16mm). You'll need to shorten the nipple of the rubber/silicone boot.


There is a cheaper way....shiningbeam.com sells 16mm silicon tailcap covers for $1.95 (before discount) + shipping. 
Fits perfectly with no alterations required.

L2P in the middle with GITD tailcap cover from Shiningbeam.
It stll has a reverse clicky since it has a modified 3-mode drop-in (uses same driver as MG L-Mini II)


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## Superorb (Mar 15, 2010)

Black Rose said:


> Just an FYI.
> 
> The forward click switch for the Romisen RC-N3 can be installed in the tailcap of the Spiderfire X-03/L2. I haven't tried it in my Solarforce L2s yet.
> 
> ...



The switch will screw into the L2 tailcap without any other changes? I have two SB RC-N3's here I'll have to dig up to check.


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## Black Rose (Mar 16, 2010)

Superorb said:


> The switch will screw into the L2 tailcap without any other changes?


I only tried it with the Spiderfire X-03 (aka Spiderfire L2).

I bought a Surefire Z41 tailcap so that one of my Solarforce L2 lights could have a forward clicky.


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## Superorb (Mar 17, 2010)

Superorb said:


> The switch will screw into the L2 tailcap without any other changes? I have two SB RC-N3's here I'll have to dig up to check.


Nope, no go on this. The tailcap will fit inside the tailcap of an L2, so there's no way the switch assembly of an RC-N3 will fit into the tailcap of an L2.


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## Superorb (Apr 1, 2010)

Weird, I took apart my stock L2 tailcap and the switch board is missing a set of contacts to ground.


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