# Light failures thread



## black_ice_pc (Dec 4, 2010)

I've seen alot of updating threads recently on what light you bought, what you used your light for etc. So I though it might be interesting to start a thread about lights that failed you. The idea is, you can post here if, for example, your light develops contact issues, switch fails etc. 



Rules:

1. Don't post old failures, just new ones as they develop. 

2. Try not to go too in depth, just mention the model and the problem(s), and maybe how/when it happened. 

3. Any troubleshooting or requests for help should be taken to a dedicated thread or PM unless it's just a quick simple comment/suggestion. 

4. There is to be no mention of DX, or the thread will be overwhelmed with people whining about how crppy DX lights are. We know that already.

5. The thread is not to be used as a thin disguise for trolling or bashing vs. any particular brand. 

^ Rules 4 5 are in compliance to DM51s conditions!



Example post: My -insert light- started flickering tonight while on a walk. Checked batteries and contacts. No idea what's wrong.



Think of this thread as a contrast to the nice threads about cool things you used your light for etc. This is the darker side of lights :devil:

Maybe we'll start noticing failure patterns that could help lead to a fix or a design flaw discovery. 



Mods: A quick check didn't turn up any thread like this that I noticed. If there is one already or if this is not appropriate, feel free to remove/close this thread.


*Common Issues:
*One thing I wanted to do with this thread once we built up some reports was start a sort of common issue troubleshooting list for specific lights, and just in general. For example, I remember many reports of Maratac AAA and ITP A3 having intermittent flickering and mode hopping. The most common solution was simply to clean out the threads and relube. I'd like to post solutions like this so that users can perhaps check the list to see if the problem they're having is listed before starting another thread on the issue.


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## Belstaff1464 (Mar 10, 2011)

I just wanted to bump this thread up. There was a lot of useful info that was lost in the Great Crash. Hopefully members will re-post so that this thread can become a useful resource once again.


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## angelofwar (Mar 10, 2011)

Inova X0's; 2 fails (quit working), no apparent reason.

E2L; Older model clickie broke when dropped about 3'; SF replaced it no questions asked. SF has also since permanently fixed the "weakness" that was found in the older clickies, by placing a metal "shroud" around the plastic switch mechanism. On a side note, due to the "redundancy" built into the switch, the tail-cap/light still worked, although it was physically broken on the inside.

Nite-Ize [email protected] drop-ins; All 3 failed, again, for no apparent reason. 

No other failures to speak of (see "My Lights" in sig :devil


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## tandem (Mar 10, 2011)

I hope no one minds me putting up these posts from Google and Yahoo cache:

*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *DM51* on 12-04-2010 12:01 PM GMT



black_ice_pc said:


> Mods: A quick check didn't turn up any thread like this that I noticed. If there is one already or if this is not appropriate, feel free to remove/close this thread.


There may have been one at some stage before, but if so, it has been inactive for some time now. There may have been one at some stage before, but if so, it has been inactive for some time now. 

For the time being I therefore see no harm in letting this thread continue, subject to the following conditions:

1. There is to be no mention of DX, or the thread will be overwhelmed with people whining about how cr&ppy DX lights are. We know that already.

2. The thread is not to be used as a thin disguise for trolling or bashing vs. any particular brand. Offenders will be suspended and the thread will be closed if this occurs.


*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *black_ice_pc* on 12-04-2010 01:06 PM GMT

Definitely good restrictions. That's pretty much what I had in mind when I put the No ranting/dissing in. Your specifications are more clear though. I'll add your rules to my post!


B]Re:Light failures thread[/B]
Written by *GunnarGG* on 12-04-2010 02:31 PM GMT

I have not had any major problem with any of my lights (Fenix, EagleTac, Streamlight, ITP, 4Sevens, Surefire) yet but only small.

My EagleTac has twice started to behave inreliable and flicker, both times fixed by tightening the clicky inside the tailcap.

And, of course, all my small AAA (and MiniAA) twistys has had problems with modeskipping fixed with cleaning (and training my one-handed technique).


*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *Jaygnar* on 12-04-2010 04:09 PM GMT

My old CMG infinity government model died awhile ago. It was a bombproof old friend, but eventually they all fail =(



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *ragweed* on 12-04-2010 04:09 PM GMT

I have had no problems with Fenix & Romisen. I have had flickering with a Dorcy but, it went away forever by tightening the tail-cap switch. All in all I am a happy camper.


*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *black_ice_pc* on 12-04-2010 04:57 PM GMT

I'll add a few.

My Romisen RC-A4 switch died about 3 months of edc. 

Ultrafire WF-501B switch died after about 2 months semi-edc. While I was showing it off to a friend no less 

Ultrafire 502B came with a dead drop-in.

Ultrafire C3 came with contact issues I was never able to fix. Tried everything I could think of.

I'll post any others that come to mind. I know I have more, but I can't remember right now. These failures are what got me into the more reputable, quality lights. And I learned about them right here on CPF !


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## tandem (Mar 10, 2011)

*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *jtblue* on 12-04-2010 06:35 PM GMT

I had a tomcat 13 and after a few weeks the rear spring started having contact issues. The only fix I guess would be a stronger spring but I couldn't be bothered.

Jeremy



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *herosemblem* on 12-04-2010 07:02 PM GMT

Olight M20 Premium (R2 version).

Light is so intermittent that I can't even estimate what percentage of time the light works correctly. 

Cleaned the threads, alcohol'd the springs/contacts, tightened the rings with pliers, researched the various discussion threads about this issue, and none seem to fix the issue.

That said, I do love my M20*S*, which works fine.


*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *AaronG* on 12-04-2010 11:21 PM GMT

My dorcy headlamp battery carrier broke. cheap plastic part so it was only a matter of time. Now it still works but I have to be careful when changing the batteries. It's the piece right behind one of the negative terminal springs. The threads on my fenix ld10 got a little gritty but cleaned and lubed and it's good as new 



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *angelofwar* on 12-04-2010 11:26 PM GMT

My Inova XO quit working properly, for no apparent reason...but will come back on with a decent "slap". Contact issue? Cleaned the contacts, issue not resolved.



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *black_ice_pc* on 12-05-2010 11:03 AM GMT



angelofwar said:


> My Inova XO quit working properly, for no apparent reason...but will come back on with a decent "slap". Contact issue? Cleaned the contacts, issue not resolved.


Sounds like it could also be a bad solder joint. I had this same problem with a light, and it was a bad solder joint on the emitter. Sounds like it could also be a bad solder joint. I had this same problem with a light, and it was a bad solder joint on the emitter.



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *black_ice_pc* on 12-05-2010 11:09 AM GMT

Just remembered another failure I had.

My Aurora SH-033 started developing weird issues where it would flicker all the time, and sometimes wouldn't turn on at all. A hard tap in a certain direction would usually fix this, at least for a while. Eventually it just completely stopped working. I cleaned all the contacts but no luck. 

So I ended up taking the whole thing apart, and quickly noticed that the positive contact on the emitter star wasn't soldered! This was a nice opportunity to swap emitters. An R2 later, my light's better than when purchased, and it's never had issues since.



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *leonardc9* on 12-05-2010 11:36 AM GMT

My Fenix LD01 would stop turning on if a battery was left in it or after a few minutes after it was turned on. Tried cleaning the contacts but that didn't fix it. Taking out the battery and leaving it alone for a week would let me turn it back on for a period of time and then it would die again. Best guess from another CPF member was a contact on the circuit board was broken and either heat or slight bending of the board could cause it to disconnect. After sending it back and forth for repair a few times, 4Sevens replaced it with a new light which works great now.



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *leonardc9* on 12-05-2010 11:37 AM GMT



black_ice_pc said:


> Just remembered another failure I had.
> 
> My Aurora SH-033 started developing weird issues where it would flicker all the time, and sometimes wouldn't turn on at all. A hard tap in a certain direction would usually fix this, at least for a while. Eventually it just completely stopped working. I cleaned all the contacts but no luck.


This is the exact same thing that happened with my LD01 -- a hard slap on a back would usually fix it! This must be a more common issue. This is the exact same thing that happened with my LD01 -- a hard slap on a back would usually fix it! This must be a more common issue.


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## tandem (Mar 10, 2011)

*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *black_ice_pc* on 12-05-2010 12:17 PM GMT



leonardc9 said:


> This is the exact same thing that happened with my LD01 -- a hard slap on a back would usually fix it! This must be a more common issue.


Yeah in some of the poor QC lights it's definitely something to look for. Not nearly as common on the better lights. Note that I am NOT suggesting Fenix is poor QC! No manufacturer has a perfect track record though. Not even the HDCs. It's what the companies do to fix problems that set certain mfgs apart. Yeah in some of the poor QC lights it's definitely something to look for. Not nearly as common on the better lights. Note that I am NOT suggesting Fenix is poor QC! No manufacturer has a perfect track record though. Not even the HDCs. It's what the companies do to fix problems that set certain mfgs apart.



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *black_ice_pc* on 12-05-2010 12:19 PM GMT

If this thread keeps going for a bit, I'd like to compile a list of all the failures we've had here. By mfg and by failure type. I'll post it in the reserved post #2.




Written by *scottaw* on 12-05-2010 12:45 PM GMT

My hds went funky a week or so ago. But when it failed it would stay on, couldn't turn off without removing the battery. Wonder if it's a safety feature?

Hds said it was the battery tube and sent me a new one. Works great again now.



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *crizyal* on 12-05-2010 01:25 PM GMT

My Sunwayman M10A just went dark a couple of days ago. I did the jumper thing to test if the switch was bad. I was not able to get the light to light up at all. It worked great one second I clicked it off and back on and it never lit up again. I tried several known good batteries with no luck. It has been sent in for repairs.



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *zespectre* on 12-05-2010 01:52 PM GMT

After five years of faithful service my trusty 1'st generation Inova T4 died a gruesome death (as detailed here...)

I had a River Rock "Nightfire" 1xAA light with the "clicky" switch that failed about a week after I got it. I pulled the second one I bought out of the package and started carrying it, that switch is...erratic. It works but the connection is poor and the light flickers a lot so it got "shelved".

One P60 lamp module (Surefire) popped on the first activation. Surefire replaced with no questions asked.

(and of course a host of "el cheapo" chinese knockoffs that failed in one way or another)



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *black_ice_pc* on 12-05-2010 08:30 PM GMT

zespectre,
read the obit for your T4. May it rest in peace lol.


*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *Burgess* on 12-05-2010 08:51 PM GMT

Sounds like this is gonna' be an Interesting Thread !



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *Belstaff1464* on 12-06-2010 01:28 AM GMT



Burgess said:


> Sounds like this is gonna' be an Interesting Thread !



And very useful !!!!


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## tandem (Mar 10, 2011)

*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *jamesmtl514* on 12-06-2010 04:23 AM GMT

-My Surefire E2DL tail cap would switch into low mode with the slightest tap. I sent it in to Surefire and Received a replacement.

-I use my E1B with E2DL tail cap as my work light, I was in gyprock and the light stopped functioning well. I opened the tail and the inside looked as though a lot of dust got in. A quick shot of air from a compressor and a little wipe down cleaned it up.

-I dropped my new A2L-red from about 3 feet onto a ceramic tile. There is a tiny dent but the lens has a hairline crack at the outter edge. I went to the dealer to send it in to SF. He didn't want to and said that SF would charge me for replacing the whole head.



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *JanCPF* on 12-06-2010 06:12 AM GMT

Back in the "old days" (2003) I had two Surefire Z57 clickies failing on me (would not turn off), but got replacements from Surefire. They had known issues with this switch back then, but I think they solved it long time ago.



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *smokinbasser* on 12-06-2010 11:08 AM GMT

I had two separate Surefire G2s that would drain the batteries if they were left in the light. As expected Surefire stood behind their products and replaced the tail cap 1st then the entire light. Not one issue since the swap.



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *dmattaponi* on 12-06-2010 11:40 AM GMT

I've only been into the idea of an EDC led for about a year. During that time, I've only purchased Fenix, and then just recently a Quark. I don't use them hard. Just pocket lights that I can use throught the day and night on an as needed basis, but so far no problems with any of them (a couple of E01, P1D.



*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *dmattaponi* on 12-06-2010 11:40 AM GMT

I've only been into the idea of an EDC led for about a year. During that time, I've only purchased Fenix, and then just recently a Quark. I don't use them hard. Just pocket lights that I can use throught the day and night on an as needed basis, but so far no problems with any of them (a couple of E01, P1D.


*Re:Light failures thread*
Written by *dmattaponi* on 12-06-2010 11:41 AM GMT

I've only been into the idea of an EDC led for about a year. During that time, I've only purchased Fenix, and then just recently a Quark. I don't use them hard. Just pocket lights that I can use throught the day and night on an as needed basis, but so far no problems with any of them (a couple of E01, P1D. Prior to these I used Mag Solitaire on my keychain...got tired of replacing bulbs and batteries.


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## tandem (Mar 10, 2011)

Reserved for page 2 of thread list if it can be recovered.


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## tandem (Mar 10, 2011)

_Posts recovered from Google and Yahoo cache, page 3_

*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *usair* on 12-30-2010 05:50 AM GMT

dealextreme.com/productimages/sku_5728_1.jpg

okay

you have your flashlight, you test the LED (fine), you test the switch (fine), you test the flashlight (nope), what might happen the tailcap has a slight pressure on the switch after a while ... OR the same pressure but the spring of the switch weakened and is unable to go back all the way - simple solution is to cut a layer from the silicone INNER center tailcap to reduce or cancel the pressure maybe


*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *JNieporte* on 12-31-2010 12:51 PM GMT

1. ITP EOS A1 (the 3-mode, 190 lumen model). Skips modes, whether I'm tightening it all the way or just pressing the head down for momentary. It will go from low to high (skipping medium), or high to medium (skipping low), or low, medium, low (skipping high). I tried a new battery, cleaned the contacts, and lubed the threads, but the problem persists.
2. MagLite MiniMag LED, 2AA version (the newer one with multi-mode). Wouldn't turn on, fresh out of the box. Tried new batteries: nothing. Cleaned the contacts: nothing. Tried a different MiniMag LED tailcap: nothing. Sent an E-mail to MagLite six days ago with the light's serial number and problem: nothing.
3. Streamlight PolyTac LED (black) wouldn't turn on, right out of the box. I tried the tailcap from my other PolyTac LED (tan) and it worked just fine. Now I have two PolyTacs, but I have to swap the working tailcap to the one I want. I contacted Streamlight via E-mail, and they said I'd have to send the entire light in just to get it looked at "and determine if it's covered by warranty". I love Streamlight, but this is unacceptable.


*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *pe2er* on 01-01-2011 02:22 AM GMT

My Ultrafire C3 EDClight failed last week. First it went intermittent, then completely dead after about a year on my key chain. 

I Disassembled it and found one wire of the the inductor separated from the driver PCB. The inductor core has chipped a little. Probably dropped the light a few times too many 

After re-soldering and assembly, the light functions again 


*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *1pt21* on 01-01-2011 11:31 PM GMT



JNieporte said:


> 2. MagLite MiniMag LED, 2AA version (the newer one with multi-mode). Wouldn't turn on, fresh out of the box. Tried new batteries: nothing. Cleaned the contacts: nothing. Tried a different MiniMag LED tailcap: nothing. Sent an E-mail to MagLite six days ago with the light's serial number and problem: nothing.


Had this exact problem, and went through the same steps. Got fed up waiting for a response and threw it in a bubble mailer with a brief explanation of the problem and shipped it off to maglite. About 2 weeks later I was greeted with a working Had this exact problem, and went through the same steps. Got fed up waiting for a response and threw it in a bubble mailer with a brief explanation of the problem and shipped it off to maglite. About 2 weeks later I was greeted with a working light direct from mag! 

Give it a shot:

[FONT="arial,helvetica"]*Maglite Corporate Warranty Center *

1721 East Locust Street - 51453

Ontario, California, USA 91761-7769

Attention: Warranty/Repair Department

909 947-1006

[/FONT]Please include your name, address, phone number and or 

email address and a description of the problem.

Good luck!
[FONT="arial,helvetica"]
[/FONT]


*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *LedTed* on 01-07-2011 11:54 PM GMT

Here is my list ...

My month old SpiderFire C-013 “locked-up” in programming mode one day when I first clicked it on. I managed to "trick" my way through reprogramming, but now the light turn on in whatever mode it deems.

Two if three LumaPower ConneXion X2 flashlights had "flicker" and/or even "dimmed out" when switched on for the very first times. The first two were returned to vendor. The third one works as it should.

One of two Sunwayman C10A flashlight had intermittent use of the "soft switch" right out of their boxes. The first two were returned to vendor. The third one works as it should. I am currently waiting on a fourth; a direct replacement for one of the two intermittent flashlights.

I hope this information is helpful.


*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *Beamhead* on 01-08-2011 12:09 AM GMT

During my decades of being a flashaholic and putzing around with them I can say with complete confidence that 98.99999% of myfailures were due to my own "malfeces"............ 



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *casebomber* on 01-09-2011 01:12 PM GMT

ITP C7T

Flickering, drastic mode changes, seems to go in to a dim strobe that the tactical is not supposed to have. These are intermittent and probably half my fault as I need to hone my lubing/cleaning skills.

4Sevens Quark AA R5

Threads for pocket clip retention ring are (by design) what the tailcap oring rests on. This causes the oring to push itself out (arrived to me pushed out!) Nyogel and following the pocket clip retention ring with the tailcap will keep the oring from pushing out, but the threads cut the oring every time. Only load batteries in the head! 4Sevens cust. serv. have been giving me the run around thus far. Still trying...


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## tandem (Mar 10, 2011)

*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *n0k1a* on 01-10-2011 02:16 AM GMT

I hope nobody objects because this isn't a current failure, but it was fairly recent, and I haven't found any other references to it other than my experience.

My first SureFire was a 6PL, which worked great for about a year. I started noticing that I thought it was less bright than it used to be, but didn't really compare it to anything. Eventually, it seemed dim enough that I compared it to several other lights, and it was indeed much dimmer than it should have been; it deteriorated very slowly. I called SF CS, and described the problem. I was asked if the LED looked dark in the center...yes, it did. They said it was a warranty fix, gave me an RMA number, and fixed it for just the cost of shipping it to them. That response makes it sound like a known issue to them, but I don't believe I've read anything about it anywhere. It came back at least as bright as ever.

I got a 6PD and M61 while waiting for its return, and have gotten a number of other SF models (and joined CPF) since then, so I'm certainly not dissing SF!  More curious about the failure mode than anything. I'm actually getting involved with some LED lighting design work, so this kind of thing is good to know.



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *DoctaDink* on 01-10-2011 06:42 PM GMT

DRAT....my favorite EDC, an EX10 GDP just started flickering/strobing. No known trauma or abuse. Tried a different battery,but no luck.



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *Belstaff1464* on 01-11-2011 02:37 AM GMT



Flashlite Foy said:


> My Inova T4 has been dropped on its head many times but kept working until one day the charge light would not come on. I took the t shaped charge thingy off (allen head attached wadayacallit) looked at/blew on it, reinstalled and the light has worked flawlessly ever since.
> 
> The best part though; my boss has an older T4 (with the silver ring and the lens where you can't see the emitter) and it has the smaller charger contact. Anyway, his stopped taking a charge too. Encouraged by my earlier success, I unscrewed everything, looked at all the pieces/blew on them, put it all together again and the light works perfectly.
> 
> ...



Good time to ask for a raise !!!! 



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *MarNav1* on 01-11-2011 06:58 AM GMT

Had a LumaPower M3 transformer that would work on 123 cells but not AA. Sanded the ends of the battery tubes and nary a problem since..................



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *Zeruel* on 01-11-2011 07:17 AM GMT

New Sunwayman M20A.

Dimmed without warning halfway during use. New primary batts or recharged eneloops didn't help, it remained dim. Returned to be refunded.



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *eldoubleu* on 01-14-2011 12:13 PM GMT

My new Quark 123 R5 Tactical that Santa brought me is having an issue with the tailcap switch, I believe. 4Sevens gave me a recommended fix (tighten the silver retaining ring inside the tailcap) that seemed to work for a couple of weeks, now the issue is back and the tailcap ring is extremely tight. Thelight will come on if I loosen the entire tailcap a bit, but it's very intermittent and inconsistent. Whenever the tailcap is fully tightened, the light will not work. Since I've already become dependant on this thing for EDC, I hope to get it resolved soon, once Atlanta (4Sevens home port 'o call) thaws out..... I am hoping a replacement tailcap solves the problem. We'll see.



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *TwitchALot* on 01-19-2011 01:18 AM GMT

Quark Mini AA Warm White failed to turn on a couple of days ago. I don't use it too often but check it once in a while, and it didn't turn on the other day. Contacts were cleaned, spring checked, battery replaced, still no good. No known cause of failure - hasn't been dropped or used much. Sending back for RMA.



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *TwitchALot* on 01-19-2011 01:24 AM GMT



eldoubleu said:


> My new Quark 123 R5 Tactical that Santa brought me is having an issue with the tailcap switch, I believe. 4Sevens gave me a recommended fix (tighten the silver retaining ring inside the tailcap) that seemed to work for a couple of weeks, now the issue is back and the tailcap ring is extremely tight. The light will come on if I loosen the entire tailcap a bit, but it's very intermittent and inconsistent. Whenever the tailcap is fully tightened, the light will not work. Since I've already become dependant on this thing for EDC, I hope to get it resolved soon, once Atlanta (4Sevens home port 'o call) thaws out..... I am hoping a replacement tailcap solves the problem. We'll see.


Check to see if the contact areas at the body and tailcap/head are clean (the unanodized "circular" part of the body at both ends and inside the head/tailcap where the body makes contact). Lubrication can migrate up threads and cause intermittent contact issues. Check to see if the contact areas at the body and tailcap/head are clean (the unanodized "circular" part of the body at both ends and inside the head/tailcap where the body makes contact). Lubrication can migrate up threads and cause intermittent contact issues.



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *ejb* on 01-20-2011 01:39 PM GMT

Hello,

I am new here and I have been searching the forum trying to find some info on my light. I have a smart pd d10 sp r2 that I purchased at the Blade show in June 2010. It has recently stopped functioning correctly.

The light will not always turn on with three clicks after I lock it, I have to twist the head to the momentary setting and then back to the closed position to make it unlock. Sometimes if I turn it off it will not turn back on without unscrewing the head.

I have tried cleaning the threads and contacts and also changing the batteries, no luck and Nitecore hasn't replied back to my email yet. I like the light so I hope I can get it fixed.


*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *jjgi5150* on 01-20-2011 06:59 PM GMT

Hi all,

I've been gone for a while...very busy with work and assignment changes at work...no where near the free time I had before to check on all my favorite forums...

Anyway, as to the light failures...My only is an early production Fenix T1. I really liked the light and used it quite a bit as an LEO. So many of my co-workers liked the performance that several bought their own T1's. My light was NEVER dropped or weapon mounted. I have dedicated Surefire lights for that. Anyway, it just plain stopped working. Not a battery problem, and unknown if a switch or circuit problem. I guess part of the problem was I never kept the receipt and lost my old computer data via hard-drive crash. I'm sure I bought it at the orignial online Fenix store, but they had no record of my serial number?????

A such, I just put it in a drawer and there it sits. It was a lesson for me about how great the CS was in my past dealings with Surefire (never had any major mechanical issues/problems). So now, I am back to using only Surefire...not so much as koolaid, but rather the great LEO customer service they give...

I'm now back to my very old 6P with a good Cree bulb as my mainstay of small flashlights to replace the T1. 

Take care, 

JJ


*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *nathan225* on 01-27-2011 09:27 PM GMT

my preon 1 warm white just stop working the other day I have been using for a few months then the other day it would not turn on I thought it must be the battery but tried new battery but nothing I have a cool white head and I tried it and it works fine on it I also tried the ww head on a preon 2 but still will not work


Written by *netprince* on 01-27-2011 09:31 PM GMT



nathan225 said:


> my preon 1 warm white just stop working the other day I have been using for a few months then the other day it would not turn on I thought it must be the battery but tried new battery but nothing I have a cool white head and I tried it and it works fine on it I also tried the ww head on a preon 2 but still will not work


my preon warm stopped working in a similar manner. I've sent it in to 4sevens. I'm curious if they will be able to replace it since it was a limited run. my preon warm stopped working in a similar manner. I've sent it in to 4sevens. I'm curious if they will be able to replace it since it was a limited run.



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *mvyrmnd* on 01-27-2011 09:34 PM GMT

I've only had onelight fail of its own accord (I've killed one or two )

It was an Ultrafire C3 SS. Driver board gave up. I'd replaced the emitter with a nice warm tinted XR-E. Rather than mess around, I bought another one, and swapped the emitter into the new one. 

On the plus side, the new one had a nicer tailcap 



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *Chrontius* on 01-27-2011 11:38 PM GMT

First real failure: Surefire Aviator, Fivemega Strion kit. I was trying to use it as a fist-load to punch out a section of wallboard that was being ripped out during remodeling. I ended up with a Strion bulb rattling around in the reflector, and it was ticklish to get it out. But I was trying to see what it took to get that particular configuration to fail, so I know now how far I can push it and still count on it working.

I also had a first-gen Z57 fail, but that was promptly replaced (and I was carrying a backup light, so no harm done... except to the batteries).


*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *ZMZ67* on 02-18-2011 01:42 AM GMT

Purchased several Solarforce L2s last year.The switch on the "tan" one failed almost immediately.The other Solarforce L2 switches(all reverse clickies) have been fine so far including the one in the L2X SE that I use the most.For the price of the stock L2s I am not that upset but wouldn't rely on thier switches.I may look into one of the Solarforce forward clickies to see if they are any better.

*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *Flying Turtle* on 02-18-2011 11:31 AM GMT

A few years back I got two Zebralight H50's when they first came out. One wouldn't change modes and the other had a chip off the lens. These were replaced eventually (it took a long time to get the new ones back from China). Also had a Photon 3 that wouldn't switch modes. This one was promptly replaced by PhotonLight. The only otherfailures were my fault (crossthreading a Dorcy tailcap and allowing a battery to leak in a Dorcy 1AA).

Geoff



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *Darvis* on 02-18-2011 12:42 PM GMT

I bought 3 HDS lights (1 twisty and 2 clickies) over the course of about 4 weeks (about 1.5 years ago I think) Anyway, all three had the drain bug and one was also a bit flakey when clicking through modes as well. I had the twisty fixed straight away via HDS' superior customer service and need to send the clickies back (only recently discovered the issue with these two as I bought them and stored them until now). No worries as I know they will be fixed. The only other lights I ever had issues with were a Quark Tactical R5 that has become intermittent despite all attempts to clean, tighten, etc. and a surefire e series that had a faulty switch (replaced with no questions asked).

I think the key for me is that, lights are mechanical devices and will fail from time to time, that's understandable... Just glad I bought lights with solid warranties from extremely reputable manufacturers!! I pays to look into what lights have this reputation for great service and am glad that CPF exists and has all of the info one needs to make the right choices.


*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *angelofwar* on 02-18-2011 03:22 PM GMT



Darvis said:


> and a surefire e series that had a faulty switch


Always good to have a Z53 around...just got a second one in the mail yesterday. Always good to have a Z53 around...just got a second one in the mail yesterday.



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *HotWire* on 02-18-2011 04:49 PM GMT

My EDC Preon 2 failed. I have two Preon 2s, and after swapping parts it was clear the switch was bad. I have another switch on backorder from 4sevens. I took the existing switch apart and found that a small piece of copper foil in the right place made it work again. It's still my EDC. It is a wonderfullight.



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *Darvis* on 02-18-2011 08:05 PM GMT



angelofwar said:


> Always good to have a Z53 around...just got a second one in the mail yesterday.



Yeah, when I called to have mine replaced, I asked if I could buy spare as well. The rep asked me how many I needed.. I asked for one and they sent it- for free!! :thumbsup:



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *spiros* on 02-18-2011 08:13 PM GMT

i got an olight m30 triton 5 months ago and the push switch went bad on me the seller wont send another and olight wont do anything either,so i have to buy another.



*Re:Lightfailuresthread*
Written by *angelofwar* on 02-18-2011 08:26 PM GMT



Darvis said:


> Yeah, when I called to have mine replaced, I asked if I could buy spare as well. The rep asked me how many I needed.. I asked for one and they sent it- for free!! :thumbsup:


SF Still has those in stock??? They haven't been mfg'ed for about 5-6 years now. Yer referring to the E-series twisty, right? SF Still has those in stock??? They haven't been mfg'ed for about 5-6 years now. Yer referring to the E-series twisty, right?


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## blub (Mar 10, 2011)

IlluminaTi, Jetbeam RRT-1 and HDS Clicky (NOW MY BRAND NEW, NEVER USED OLIGHT M3X!!!) .

1-IlluminaTi. About 8 months old. Just died for no reason, tried everything, no luck, only worn around my neck and never dropped or abused. Only had a three month warranty..........Bought a Preon ReVO, ten year warranty. Way nicer and smoother.

2. JetBeam RRT-1 under 6 months old, used about 5 times on my patio too look at tree tops, smelled like it burned up inside, tried new batteries, no luck, dealer wouldn't answer emails or calls, distributer wasn't interested. Sent it back to China, they were helpful but haven't heard anything in over 1 month and two days since I sent it. 
3. HDS Clicky, new it had a bad tail switch and bad threads after ordering and waiting two weeks, sent it back, sent me another after two weeks.

4. Olight M3X dead right out of the box, first time using! Why are the high priced lights garbage?!! All of my $30-$50 lights work all the time every time, this is just sad.


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## Belstaff1464 (Mar 10, 2011)

Thanks again, Tandem !!


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## Bullzeyebill (Mar 11, 2011)

Thank you tandem for bringing up lost posts. General Flashlight Discussion forum is my primary moderating forum.

Bill


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## Farnsrocket (Mar 15, 2011)

This is my favorite flashlight ever! I was putting a new battery in and as I screwed it together, the head just split off. You can see how thin it is right there at the threads.....I am suprised it didn't break sooner. 
I emailed Nitecore and they said it couldn't be fixed as the D11 is it's replacement and that was about it.....oh, and something to the affect of stay loyal to our products. :shakehead






























0


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## Bullzeyebill (Mar 15, 2011)

You might try something like Bondo to hold it together. You could apply then smooth it down. It might look like a poor car repair job, but will probably work.

Bill


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## Wcleexh0 (Mar 15, 2011)

*Re: Malkoff M61LL vs. Surefire P60L*

Sorry, not to thread-jack but my post does involve the Surefire P60L lamp.

Just purchased a Surefire G2 (old version 80 lumens) that was on sale at Lowes. Though lower in brightness than the new KX heads (120 lumens) I could always drop in the lamp into my old surefire's. 
But a strange thing happened the next couple of days testing it (still in the G2, didn't open anything). One day it would just not turn on. I changed to fresh surefire batteries but still nothing. So I left it in the on position for a few minutes and then the lamp (led) lit up. Kinda disturbed that my light may not work when I need it to, I did the tests again to see if the original batteries were bad (were practically new), and if it would have problems firing up again. 

Then I noticed that the lamp was not bright. I tried out the light at night when I got it, so everything at night inside the house looks bright. But in the daylight the light barely registered on the wall. So I compared it to a 4Sevens Quark AA2 and it was between Low and Medium. And then compared to a standard P60 lamp, it was much dimmer. 

I brought it back to Lowes 5 days later and compared the original lamp to a new one in package, and the lamp in the original one was muddy brown, while the new one was clear on top of the led package. Lowes was great in swaping out the good and the bad, but I am wondering, of all of the LED lights that I have, why did I get a bad one out of the package, and is there a chance that it would fail when I need it?

Would I be better off getting a Malkoff lamp if no one has ever had a failure in their LED lamps? Chalk one surefire LED failure.


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## Kestrel (Mar 15, 2011)

*Re: Malkoff M61LL vs. Surefire P60L*



Wcleexh0 said:


> Sorry, not to thread-jack but my post does involve the Surefire P60L lamp. [...]


Hello Wcleexh0, I moved your post to this 'Light Failures' thread - it was a bit off-topic for the thread you posted in.


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## jtblue (Mar 15, 2011)

*Re: Malkoff M61LL vs. Surefire P60L*

To Wcleexh0: How long did you have the damaged P60L for? as it seems to me that you may have burnt the LED. The P60L (I think) was discontinued as a result of its relatively poor heat disipitation because it only heatsink is its reflector; since it was used in a G2 with a nitrolon bezel it may have just been too hot for the LED to handle.

The Malkoff dropins are much better then Surefires P60L's as they are both more efficient and properly heatsinked but cost almost double; same deal though, don't use the high powered dropins in plastic bodies lights.

Jeremy


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## angelofwar (Mar 15, 2011)

*Re: Malkoff M61LL vs. Surefire P60L*

The P60L's weren't much to begin with...one reason they were discontinued. If it happens again, contact Surefire, and they should send you a KX4 to replace it, free-of-charge. Since you don't have to send the bezel back, get a Malkoff drop-in for it, and you're set. You'll have a bomb-proof light (6P + Malkoff), and a nice back-up LED assembly (KX4). You could even get a cheap G2 body off the MP for around $20, and have two lights.

Hope this helps!


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## Farnsrocket (Mar 15, 2011)

Bullzeyebill said:


> You might try something like Bondo to hold it together. You could apply then smooth it down. It might look like a poor car repair job, but will probably work.
> Bill




So, at first, I clamped it together and JB Welded the seam. 


















This worked for a few days, then I reached in my pocket to get it and found it cracked apart! 

So I basically JB Welded it together again but used a spring steel hose clamp to provide the structure and support to hold it together. I still need to grind down the tabs. This is very solid now!


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## angelofwar (Mar 15, 2011)

NO SURRENDER, Farnsrocket!!!


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## Vbeez (Mar 15, 2011)

Farnsrocket : smart solution !!!!!


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## HIDblue (Mar 16, 2011)

Pelican M6 LED - tailcap stopped working. 

Costco 2-pack of TechLite - one just died on it's own after the first battery change and the battery carrier in the 2nd one cracked apart inside the light.


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## blub (Mar 16, 2011)

I'm just glad all of these expensive flashlight companies don't build guns or aircraft, we'd all be dead.


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## Farnsrocket (Mar 16, 2011)

:laughing:


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## Wcleexh0 (Mar 17, 2011)

*Re: Malkoff M61LL vs. Surefire P60L*

Thanks for putting the post in the right place. I just came upon this light failures thread tonight.


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## Wcleexh0 (Mar 17, 2011)

*Re: Malkoff M61LL vs. Surefire P60L*



jtblue said:


> To Wcleexh0: How long did you have the damaged P60L for? as it seems to me that you may have burnt the LED. The P60L (I think) was discontinued as a result of its relatively poor heat disipitation because it only heatsink is its reflector; since it was used in a G2 with a nitrolon bezel it may have just been too hot for the LED to handle.
> 
> The Malkoff dropins are much better then Surefires P60L's as they are both more efficient and properly heatsinked but cost almost double; same deal though, don't use the high powered dropins in plastic bodies lights.
> 
> Jeremy


 
thanks for the reply, I had the lamp for about four days. I brought it back to lowes where they exchanged the entire package with no issue. Btw, this g2 was the led version that had the metal bezel to dissipate the heat. The light was never on for more than a few minutes at a time for testing/comparing purposes when I noticed it wasn't as bright as a standard p60 lamp.


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## Wcleexh0 (Mar 17, 2011)

*Re: Malkoff M61LL vs. Surefire P60L*



angelofwar said:


> The P60L's weren't much to begin with...one reason they were discontinued. If it happens again, contact Surefire, and they should send you a KX4 to replace it, free-of-charge. Since you don't have to send the bezel back, get a Malkoff drop-in for it, and you're set. You'll have a bomb-proof light (6P + Malkoff), and a nice back-up LED assembly (KX4). You could even get a cheap G2 body off the MP for around $20, and have two lights.
> 
> Hope this helps!


 
Another thanks for some great suggestions on this forum. I have already exchanged the bad light/lamp to Lowes, but if i have the problem again i will contact Surefire. I figure that since the failure was in such a short time from purchase ( it just started dim) it would be easiest to exchange as defective. 

Thanks


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## CSSA (Mar 17, 2011)

*Re: Malkoff M61LL vs. Surefire P60L*

After 10+ years of regular use, a small contact broke on the charger for my Surefire 9N. Surefire repaired the charger as good as new, cleaned and refurbished the 9N, and replaced the old NiCd battery *all* *at no charge*.


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## intervivos (Mar 18, 2011)

I had nearly the same failure as Farnsrocket...







Only difference is I received this in the mail today. :twothumbsto Countrycomm for standing behind their products and having excellent customer service!


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## black_ice_pc (May 27, 2011)

Just received a Xeno E03, CW in blue. It won't run off a NiMH AA period, and it's only drawing about 750mA from 14500 vs the intended 1.5A. Being promptly taken care of by the seller though :thumbsup: 
By the way, it seems I have the first semi-DOA E03 reported. I must be special


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## Cypher_Aod (May 31, 2011)

My iTP A2 EOS flickers sometimes, but only in medium/high. in low it never does it.
i've tried cleaning the threads and contacts and relubing but it comes back.

if i tighten the head on quite hard and then give it a tap against something hard it stops though


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## Outdoorsman5 (May 31, 2011)

My wife, 3 kids, & I went on a day hike at Petit Jean Mountain here in the Ozarks a few months ago. It was getting late in the day, but we decided to take a trail down to a waterfall. Round trip we thought should be 2-3 hours which would push us close to dark. I had 3 flashlights in my pack, so we were covered. On our way back it did get dark, so I pulled out my Zebralight SC30, my Fenix P2D Q5, and my Fenix LD20 Q5. The LD20 would not turn on. I banged it around, and it flickered only. The head of the LD20 worked on the body of the P2D no problem, so the problem was somewhere else. The batteries were fresh lithiums, so that wasn't it. This was very frustrating because it was getting late & we had a ways to hike. We managed just fine with the two lights, and I knew I had back up batteries (so no real worries.) But still with 5 of us hiking up a steep trail, the third light was needed. My kids did complained a bit as my wife & I tried to light things up for everyone.

I got the light home the next day, and found that in the tail cap there is a silver cylinder with 2 dimples in it that had become loose. This cylinder can be removed so that you can change out the tail switch & boot. I simply tightened it, and it worked just fine. I now have a better understanding of how this light works.

Since that happend to us, we now hike with five small lights at all times.


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## LightWalker (May 31, 2011)

Outdoorsman5 said:


> My wife, 3 kids, & I went on a day hike at Petit Jean Mountain here in the Ozarks a few months ago. It was getting late in the day, but we decided to take a trail down to a waterfall. Round trip we thought should be 2-3 hours which would push us close to dark. I had 3 flashlights in my pack, so we were covered. On our way back it did get dark, so I pulled out my Zebralight SC30, my Fenix P2D Q5, and my Fenix LD20 Q5. The LD20 would not turn on. I banged it around, and it flickered only. The head of the LD20 worked on the body of the P2D no problem, so the problem was somewhere else. The batteries were fresh lithiums, so that wasn't it. This was very frustrating because it was getting late & we had a ways to hike. We managed just fine with the two lights, and I knew I had back up batteries (so no real worries.) But still with 5 of us hiking up a steep trail, the third light was needed. My kids did complained a bit as my wife & I tried to light things up for everyone.
> 
> I got the light home the next day, and found that in the tail cap there is a silver cylinder with 2 dimples in it that had become loose. This cylinder can be removed so that you can change out the tail switch & boot. I simply tightened it, and it worked just fine. I now have a better understanding of how this light works.
> 
> Since that happend to us, we now hike with five small lights at all times.


 
Hey Outdoorsman5, I was at Petit Jean a couple of days ago and had three light as well, a Fenix E01, Quark 123 mini and an Eagletac T100C2, no failures though. Petit Jean is a nice place to visit, here are a couple of pics I took.


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## angelofwar (Jun 1, 2011)

I got some pics of that waterwall...beautiful place indeed...can't wait to make my way back up there...been a few YEARS! Devils Den and Lost valley are also nice places to use any newly acquired lights you may have...


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## TyJo (Jun 1, 2011)

Outdoorsman5 said:


> I got the light home the next day, and found that in the tail cap there is a silver cylinder with 2 dimples in it that had become loose. This cylinder can be removed so that you can change out the tail switch & boot. I simply tightened it, and it worked just fine. I now have a better understanding of how this light works.


 This is common with a lot of lights, like Fenix and 4sevens (my HDS rotary has one too). When I get any light I clean it and lube it and then I tighten that retaining ring down real good with a small pair of needlenose pliers (I didn't do this to the HDS).


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## LightWalker (Jun 1, 2011)

angelofwar said:


> I got some pics of that waterwall...beautiful place indeed...can't wait to make my way back up there...been a few YEARS! Devils Den and Lost valley are also nice places to use any newly acquired lights you may have...


 
Ok, thanks. You should check out Blanchard Srprings caverns next time your in Arkansas, just don't turn your light on high, they dont like that.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blanchard_Springs_Caverns


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## Outdoorsman5 (Jun 1, 2011)

LightWalker & AOW,
Arkansas is a beautiful state, and great for exploring. We moved here from Atlanta in 2009, and really like it. Petit Jean Mtn is our favorite & Mt. Nebo is a close 2nd. Blanchard Springs is awesome...and yes I took my lights...and no I didn't use high. Loved your pictures LightWalker; good to hear from you again AOW. I was tempted to put on a few pics myself, but am afraid we are getting too far off subject here. Really good to here from some Arkansas folks though.

That hike up from the waterfall where my fenix failed on me taught me a valueable lesson, and one I've thought about many times. I'm glad I was well prepared, and have been even better prepared since then. I like to hike with lightweight single-cell lights, so carrying five of em is nothing (weight-wise.) Last weekend we hiked Mt. Nebo, and we were WELL prepared (gear + 5 lights)....and no light failures.....this time.


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## TwitchALot (Jul 6, 2011)

TwitchALot said:


> Quark Mini AA Warm White failed to turn on a couple of days ago. I don't use it too often but check it once in a while, and it didn't turn on the other day. Contacts were cleaned, spring checked, battery replaced, still no good. No known cause of failure - hasn't been dropped or used much. Sending back for RMA.



I got this light back from RMA, but today, it just failed again under the same circumstances. There's something loose in the head (audible). The light is rarely, if ever used, as it's a backup backup light (and my primary Quark AA hasn't failed yet), and it just lives with my keys and hasn't been dropped. Disappointing to have a second failure under these circumstances, especially since I gift the Mini AA often.


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## syntax (Jan 25, 2012)

FourSevens Quark 123^2 Tactical running in 18650 configuration. Failure of low modes, probably driver related. I have owned it for probably about a year and used it extensively.


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## STR (Jan 25, 2012)

The Light is the TerraLux LightStar 100 model. The button seems to be iffy at least on mine. Several times now the light for no reason at all shuts off on it's own during use. Comes right back on after this but no rhyme or reason as to why this happens. Seems to make a sound like something is moving position or shifting in the switch when this occurs. Other times rather than shut off it just changes settings on it's own. That event has only happened twice though. Even working correctly this light is not what I thought it would be with the very narrow almost too narrow beam its pre-set at. This switch issue is the real worry though. Nice light other than this. This one will be going back for a repair/or refund here shortly.


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## jamie.91 (Jan 25, 2012)

My ITP a3 Eos one day just decided to stop working, i tried the usual, new cells, clean threads and check contacts but no glory 

At a guess i would say the led remains but the driver is at fault


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## l337m4n (Jan 25, 2012)

The tail cap switch on my romisen rc-n3 has broken twice in the two times i used it. It's now on the third one and probably doesn't even have 5 mins of runtime .


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## bronzet (Jan 25, 2012)

Olight M20 R5 low,medium and strobe works but the highest setting does not work.Rarely used and never been dropped so no idea how it broke.


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## cland72 (Jan 25, 2012)

Fenix LD20 failed to turn on with alkaline AA's (they were not leaking). After taking it apart the LED board in the head was loose. I thought about sending it back to Fenix but they only offer a 30 month maximum warranty (I've owned it for 4 years) so I threw it away rather than incur repair charges.


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## eg1977 (Jan 26, 2012)

I bought a new old stock Nitecore EX10 (XP-E R2) back in October. After receiving it, I checked the light to make sure everything was in working order. The light was then stored and not used. Yesterday, I decided to power it up and nothing happened. I tried several batteries with no luck. Not sure what to do at this point.


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## BullsEyeLantern (Jan 26, 2012)

My Eagle Tac p20A2 worked great for about five days. Now it is terribly weak with freshly AA charged batteries. Contacted retailer, tried cleaning, tightening, etc. Replacement module is on the way apparently.


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## MarNav1 (Jan 26, 2012)

My little iTP Ti (AAA) model stopped working. Cleaned the threads and tried a different cell and it's dead. No clue why it stopped working. It just didn't work one day when I tried it. I guess I'll just throw it away, don't know what else to do with it ...........


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## bronzet (Apr 22, 2012)

*Your lights that failed*

Just curious what lights you owned that failed with just regular use.So far i have 2.

The Klarus XT10 just compltely died on me.I have never dropped it and its main use is when i walk my dogs at night,not to mention its only 2 months old.Its too bad since i love the UI and their tail switch :sigh:

Olight M20 warrior partially works meaning the highest mode is gone :shrug: but the medium and low works fine.Basically it was my "walk the dog" light till the Klarus came along.


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## jabe1 (Apr 22, 2012)

*Re: Your lights that failed*

The only two I've had fail are an Ultrafire 602c (first high power LED light), which I fixed, and a Solarforce with a bad solder job on the pill (also fixed).

All the rest have been flawless.


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## parnass (Apr 22, 2012)

*Re: Your lights that failed*

_These flashlights failed to light or went dim suddenly:_

Arc AAA-P DS (received dead from Arc, replaced by Arc)
Peak 3-LED Matterhorn (replaced by Peak)
River Rock 1AA 1 watt - died after 2nd battery (replaced by dealer)

_These flashlights failed or became intermittant shortly after purchase:_

Gerber Tempo (returned to dealer for refund)
Inova X1 2nd generation (replaced by dealer)
Inova T1 tailcap (tailcap replaced by Inova)
Inova X5 several of the 55 lumen variety, flashing LED (replaced by dealer)

_This flashlight became intermittant after modest usage:_

Snap-On penlight, pushbutton switch began to flake out.

Lost 2 Maglites due to alkaline battery leakage.
Maglite Solitaire became intermittant


*For more flashlight failures, see the earlier thread entitled* What lights have failed on you?.


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## bronzet (Apr 22, 2012)

*Re: Your lights that failed*



parnass said:


> *For more flashlight failures, see the earlier thread entitled* What lights have failed on you?.




Geez i guess i was searching in the wrong places I was looking for a similar thread so i have an idea what brands are prone to failures.Thanks for the link.


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## snakebite (Apr 22, 2012)

*Re: Your lights that failed*

1 arc-aaa that flickered and died getting very hot.suspect converter death via short.
replaced by arc.
brass peak 3 led aaa.
bad engagement of oring let head fall out and get lost.
replaced by peak.
all others not to be considered failure.battery leaks,dirty switch,ect.
several arc-ls torn down and upgraded as better led's came along.


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## jorgen (Apr 22, 2012)

*Re: Your lights that failed*

I've also had 2 fail. the first was a Brookstone AAA. I got it about 6 years ago. t was my first Led. I liked it a lot but dropped it once too often in about a year.
The second was a Nitecore D20 with an alky battery leak. I applied Deoxit and I got it to turn on again but it would not ramp. After a couple more application I can now change brightness with some difficulty. I never cared too much for this light even when it worked right.


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## Sgt. LED (Apr 22, 2012)

*Re: Your lights that failed*

Ra Twisty
And lots of others but I knew they were poop going in.


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## LedTed (Apr 22, 2012)

*Re: Your lights that failed*

Not counting the LED FLs I received not working, my SpiderFire C-013 locked in programmable mode after only about a month of casual EDC use.


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## whill44 (Apr 22, 2012)

*Re: Your lights that failed*

Three out of three itp aaa standard (single mode) all failed within 14 months. All three were gifts. One died after coming apart in the washing machine. The other two were carried in their owners pockets and use daily and of course dropped on the ground from time to time. It was after one of these drops (the last one as it turns out) that both lights failed.


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## Numb (Apr 22, 2012)

4sevens mini AA and CR2. The first stopped working after being dropped from waist high the other just stopped working. A nightcore D10 got wet inside (bad O-ring).5 Lots of cheap lights that I kind of knew was going to break when i bought them. And of cause the lights that I dropped i the sea, lost in the woods or drove over with the lawnmower. ;-)

/N


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## Kestrel (Apr 22, 2012)

I have merged this new thread with the main 'Light failures thread'.


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## don.gwapo (Apr 22, 2012)

4sevens Mini CR2. Just died on me. Did everything but still no good.


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## tolkaze (Apr 23, 2012)

4sevens Mini CR2 limited warm edition. On keys since I got it, has gone through about 8 cells and stopped working. Driver board looks like it was cut out with safety scissors. I think the twisty motion may have cut through the gold contacts on the board. I am thinking that dissasembly, replace the LED with a Nichia 219 or WW XP-G and try to save the driver board with some soldering. I love the little light, and am sad that I can only have a High CRI or cool white to replace... the warm was really nice.


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