# PT EOS modding???



## adirondackdestroyer (Jun 27, 2006)

I am planning on having my PT EOS headlamp modded. I have read through a couple threads about this headlamp and modding them, but they don't give quite enough info.
I was hoping to switch the stock reflector with something else. Does any reflector drop right in without any modding? I have read about the IMS17, does that drop right in, or do you need to fix some things before it will fit. 
I was also wondering if the MCR18 fit, or is that a little too large?

Thanks in advance.


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## Manzerick (Jun 27, 2006)

i owuld think heat could be a main issue in this unit if one goes nuts with upgrades.

Also, it's on your head... >>Scared<<


my .02


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jun 27, 2006)

Manzerick said:


> i owuld think heat could be a main issue in this unit if one goes nuts with upgrades.
> 
> Also, it's on your head... >>Scared<<
> 
> ...


 
All I will be doing is swapping the original Luxeon with an SXOH star, and then changing the reflector with a nicer one (IMS17 or something else). I don't think that the heat would be any more than a stock version.


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## jar3ds (Jun 27, 2006)

thin butter knife... wedge on the bottom of the inner housing... pull on the tabs on the side as your prying with the knife (GENTLY)... take your time... and keep pulling and prying... you'll hear a *snap* ... you need to hear both pins break... then you can take out the inner housing and replace the optic with the 17mm IMS... (yes it drops right in)... 

and before someone asks... yes the unit is completely water proof after the mod...


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## jar3ds (Jun 27, 2006)

oh... i don't know why 'heat' was talked about... its not a problem... on high though the star gets hot but thats the way it is before you do the mod...


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jun 27, 2006)

jar3ds said:


> thin butter knife... wedge on the bottom of the inner housing... pull on the tabs on the side as your prying with the knife (GENTLY)... take your time... and keep pulling and prying... you'll hear a *snap* ... you need to hear both pins break... then you can take out the inner housing and replace the optic with the 17mm IMS... (yes it drops right in)...
> 
> and before someone asks... yes the unit is completely water proof after the mod...


 
Jar3ds,


Thank you for telling me that. I was making sure that the IMS17 dropped right in without any other modification. Do you need to use another O ring or anything to make up for a size difference in reflectors, or should it work just fine with still using everything else in the light?


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## jar3ds (Jun 27, 2006)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> Jar3ds,
> 
> 
> Thank you for telling me that. I was making sure that the IMS17 dropped right in without any other modification. Do you need to use another O ring or anything to make up for a size difference in reflectors, or should it work just fine with still using everything else in the light?


 well... the tolerances very between lights and reflectors... some have no rattle...

mine had a slight rattle but it didn't effect the beam @ all... now I use a mild diffusion lens inbetween the stock plastic lens and my reflector... now theres no rattle ...

there are other ways of fixing the rattle if you don't want to or don't have a mild diffuser


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## Krit (Jul 10, 2006)

I mod with Low dome bulb luxI, because I want spill smooth light for walking or close up use. NX05 with LD make a good light pattern for me. When I want to see farther distance I use handheld flashlight.


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## cave dave (Jul 12, 2006)

Just put a IMS 17 in today. Wow I like it so much better! Well worth the $5. It just dropped right in. If you are going to do this I would break it open first to check the bin to see if you want to replace the Star while you are at it.

I got my reflectors here:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=85330
$10 min, free shipping, fast service. Also has Luxeons, I would have got an Sbin if he had one on a star.

Before that I spent 1/2 hour trying to cut down a brinkmann 2AA reflector but the end results were terrible. Very ringy beam.


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## ktronik (Jul 12, 2006)

Stock optic or not... I feel heat IS a problem...thats why it has a heat regulation circuit built in...for when the star gets too hot, it backs off the current...So I put a extra heatsink in the unit...I feel it will last longer on high beam before it is dimmed by the heat reg circuit...

enjoy

Ktronik


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## Pila_Power (Jul 13, 2006)

You only have 2 hours on high and not much room for more sinking... ktronic - can you please post a pic of your extra heatsink please? I'm interested to consider doing the same to mine.

Just cos you can't feel the heat doesn't mean it's not there hey. 

Have you run one to see when the heat reg kicks in?


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## ktronik (Jul 14, 2006)

I DON'T WANT TO HYJACK THIS THREAD...please PM questions to me...

Yes, the Eos has no heatsink!! It does have a heat regulation circuit for 'high' mode, so when the LED get too hot it backs off the current a bit...That means a dimmer light... the hotter it gets the more it backs off the current...

Adding a heatsink helps to lower the temp on the star's MCPCB, so the heat regulation circuit kicks in later, if at all...


So when swapping out the LED, just cut out a piece of copper or alloy, the same shape as the gold section & the same thickness as a 1w star board, remove the tab that holds the star up & insert the heatsink. I used 3/4 's of a star board for my heatsink, the overall height is spot on!!







A bit of expoy on the star stops the heatsink from moving around...as the optic holder holds the star in place.

A little heat gets to the board, but thats alright as when they get made they go through an reflow oven @ 100's of deg, so a little heats is not a problem...

***when removing the star from the Eos, it pays to snip the leads to the glass diode stuck to the star's underneath as on the more recent versions this has been stuck good, & the diode has broken when removing***


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## Pila_Power (Jul 14, 2006)

Cool thanks ktronic - I don't think peeps will call it hijacking if you're contributing to the overall 'feel' of the thread - ie: modding the EOS.

Thanks for the pointers - I didn't even look for any diodes, maybe I didn't break any by accident.  Mine's only new too...

I didn't leave the optic holder in there - is that bad? Nothing rattles around in mine. 

Thanks ktronic - I always look forward to seeing your mods when you show em.

Tim.


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## jar3ds (Jul 14, 2006)

yeah... no hi-jack... very informative... i've been thinking of a way to get more of a heat sink into my EOS but since I'm using the 17mm reflector... i don't have much room...

thanks for the input!


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## ktronik (Jul 14, 2006)

jar3ds said:


> yeah... no hi-jack... very informative... i've been thinking of a way to get more of a heat sink into my EOS but since I'm using the 17mm reflector... i don't have much room...
> 
> thanks for the input!




My Units have a heatsink & 17mm reflector...err don't know why the pic is with the stock optic...so NO PROBLEM w doing both mods...

Hey a 20mm reflector will also fit, if it is choped down... have not tied it yet...

...I wonder...  

enjoy

Ktronik


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## Cypher (Aug 9, 2006)

I have been looking at putting an S binned star in my Eos and in reading some threads people have said you need to use some thermal compound when you put the new star back on top of the temperature sensor. 

I looked at photonfanatic's offerings and I have no idea what the different properties of the different materials are. 

For those of you who have swapped new stars into your Eos what specific product did you use to recreate the thermal path to the temp sensor?

I guess I'm wondering it it's a paste that just transfers heat and DOESN'T adhere or if I want something that transfers heat and DOES adhere like epoxy. 

Any suggestions?

Thanks.


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## ktronik (Aug 10, 2006)

Yep, that was me...

Not really needed...just wack it back together...

I was thought it might be better for the temp circuit if it had a firm contact with the star...just me being anal...

so swap the star & lens & your all good...make & heatsink from an old 1w star for extra points...  

the main thing is enjoy!!

Ktronik


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## OddBall (Aug 10, 2006)

Hey ktronik, I have a HDS mild diffuser in mine and it just tops it off for the smooth transition between the hotspot and the outer spill. Nice and even and usefull too.


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## jar3ds (Aug 10, 2006)

i put a bit of thermal compound on there too... got the idea from the Petzl Tikka XP i just got... it'll keep the plastic from melting and breaking the diode...


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## Pila_Power (Aug 10, 2006)

****when removing the star from the Eos, it pays to snip the leads to the glass diode stuck to the star's underneath as on the more recent versions this has been stuck good, & the diode has broken when removing****

Hi ktronic,

I broke my glass diode last night - do you know what value it is?

I have a few here at work and I might be able to replace it....I hope.

Here's a pic of the offending area... :

*

http://img123.imageshack.us/my.php?image=eoswl8.jpg*


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## chevrofreak (Aug 10, 2006)

I find that the simplest solution is to slip a razor blade between the star and the diode to seperate them. I haven't broken one yet.


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## Pila_Power (Aug 10, 2006)

Cool, thanks for the tip chev - I'll be doing that in future, trust me!!  

I might be getting an order for about 20 or 30 of the things and will need to mod them all too - without failures!!

I kinda need to know what I can do with this broken one as it is my friends and I only borrowed it last night. Busted it within 2 hours of getting it hehe

Luckily (or not) I had loaned him mine - fully modded - beforehand so he has a good working EOS at least. Now the broken one is my problem. 

Tim.


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## Pila_Power (Aug 11, 2006)

What would happen if I shove a small glass diode in there without knowing what it was? Is it likely to do damage?

Hmmmm...


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## ktronik (Aug 11, 2006)

PM sent...

its a jaycar part, easy to get...if any one needs... gives a PM...

Ktronik


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## OddBall (Aug 11, 2006)

Hi ktronik - what's that diode please? I am not on my work login aNYMORE AND DIDN'T GET THE PM.

cHEERS,

tIM

Stupid caps. I'm not re-typing all that.


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## OddBall (Aug 11, 2006)

The diode I got is a schottkey i think 6v.. not 100% on that. red with black band.

I get good price at altronics, do they have an equiv?


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## Blindasabat (Aug 11, 2006)

My thermal thingy just popped off with a little tugging. The epoxy just let go of the diode. I can still reseat it easily and hold it in place with the optic holder. I swapped it out for a 25 degree Carclo optic and it now has great flood like a headlight for use around camp should have.


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## jar3ds (Aug 11, 2006)

where did you get that optic blind?

thanks


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## ktronik (Aug 11, 2006)

OddBall said:


> Hi ktronik - what's that diode please? I am not on my work login aNYMORE AND DIDN'T GET THE PM.
> 
> cHEERS,
> 
> ...




Hey,

Its NTC Thermistor (10k ohm) looks more like a cap than a diode...

I got mine from jaycar...

works well...

Ktronik


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## OddBall (Aug 11, 2006)

Oops I stuck a 3W red star in there and glued it in with adhesive heatsink compound so it's in for good I think :naughty:

Works really well however. The only thing is its not getting enough grunt - I reckon it could be fed more but runtime would suffer I guess. All 3 levels still work fine still. :shrug:

I'm interested in that carl optic too... might be a simpler solution to all the extra fluffing around...


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## Blindasabat (Aug 12, 2006)

Photonfanatic in the dealer forum has Carclo optics. $5 each with a minimum order of $10 so try a 15 or 6 degree optic. He also has Fraen & NX05 optics but I'm not sure what those do, and one of them probably comes in the EOS. I got the SV1H star upgrade from him too.


jar3ds said:


> where did you get that optic blind?
> 
> thanks


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## jar3ds (Aug 13, 2006)

blind... 

How do you like the SV1H's tint? Does the tint help to 3D more of what your looking at? My sxoh is sort of anoying me since its like ghost white... a v1 seems like it might make the headlamp act more like an incandscent...


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## Blindasabat (Aug 13, 2006)

I haven't actually had the chance to try it out extensively outdoors in the EOS, but it does look nice indoors so far. I chose the V1 tint based on using a Lux III SV1K in my Q3, where it looks even warmer than the WO in my JIL and the original RWOH in the EOS. It has more of a yellowy tint that does seem to look more 'normal' outside. Most incan-like of any tints I have. Though a greenish X1 tint is OK outdoors too. Not all X1's are very green, and green is less attractive indoors, so I decided to try the V1 tint.
I'll have to try it outside tonight compared to some other tints.


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## jar3ds (Aug 13, 2006)

Blindasabat said:


> I haven't actually had the chance to try it out extensively outdoors in the EOS, but it does look nice indoors so far. I chose the V1 tint based on using a Lux III SV1K in my Q3, where it looks even warmer than the WO in my JIL and the original RWOH in the EOS. It has more of a yellowy tint that does seem to look more 'normal' outside. Most incan-like of any tints I have. Though a greenish X1 tint is OK outdoors too. Not all X1's are very green, and green is less attractive indoors, so I decided to try the V1 tint.
> I'll have to try it outside tonight compared to some other tints.


 excellent... try it out tonight and let me know your impressions... I think i'll try one if you give it the thumbs up


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## Blindasabat (Aug 13, 2006)

*V1 Rocks!*

OK, I tried it and it rocks. V1 tint is so nice outdoors. I compared it to X0 and X1 tints and it was way better than the X0 and moderately better than the X1. On grass and dirt, the V1 is much less pale looking. Grass looks actually green and natural. Browns are more brown, less of a white caste, making it easier to look at. My X1 tint was not as good as V1, but still better than X0. And my X0 is brighter than either of the lights I was comparing it to... but I'd prefer the V1 lights for walking around. I'd still like to spend more time with it - I will be taking my newly modded EOS on a weeklong trip in a couple of weeks. After that I'll have more info, but I'm already convinced.


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## jar3ds (Aug 14, 2006)

*Re: V1 Rocks!*



Blindasabat said:


> OK, I tried it and it rocks. V1 tint is so nice outdoors. I compared it to X0 and X1 tints and it was way better than the X0 and moderately better than the X1. On grass and dirt, the V1 is much less pale looking. Grass looks actually green and natural. Browns are more brown, less of a white caste, making it easier to look at. My X1 tint was not as good as V1, but still better than X0. And my X0 is brighter than either of the lights I was comparing it to... but I'd prefer the V1 lights for walking around. I'd still like to spend more time with it - I will be taking my newly modded EOS on a weeklong trip in a couple of weeks. After that I'll have more info, but I'm already convinced.


 thanks for your impressions!

I'm interested how you said that the XO is brighter... because i guess theres no real reason why it should be since they are both S-bins... I guess since the XO is more white... it may make things reflector more... while the V1 will make objects reflector they're color rather than just reflector white light... just a thought...

i think i'll go ahead and get a SV1H and try it in my spare EOS that I got from the REI run... I haven't mod'd it yet... My fear was what you mentioned... that is that it won't appear as bright... but it'll be good to have another headlamp to test side by side.... 

---

on a side note I went back to using the mild diffuser w/ my SXOH 17mm EOS... it does make the beam so much more beautiful even though I do wonder how much light transmission I use with the filter... It turns the EOS into the perfect headlamp beam... 

personally... I think a headlamp needs to have SOME throw to it... a perfectly diffused light (such as the F04) is not practical for headlamp use... You have to have some focal hotspot because when you use a headlamp...

Your eyes naturally want to look at more of a point/small region therefore you don't need an even blanket of light (its a waste of light at the edges)... However, with a *mild* diffuser the centeral spot of the reflector remains... it just smooths the entire beam out so there is a perfect transistion....

Makes me wish someone would make a Dual Lux1 headlamp (like the Stenlight but a smaller version)... use two McR-16 or two 17mm-IMS's... with a red 5mm led inbetween the two... 

o o
*

Something like above but with the two reflectors right next to each other... having two s-bin lux1's running @ spec with two 14500's or something would be awesome...

I can't wait to see the progression of princeton tec...


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## ktronik (Aug 14, 2006)

Ok, Now got 2 EOS's, RX0H w IMS 17mm & SV1H w IMS 17mm (fred's yellow batch)

& w custom stippled 17mm Ref...

In the middle of a move so if I can find a camera before then I will do some beam shots...

first look is real nice...it would keep ya warm on a cold winters night... 

*Found a new way of opening the eos...just used a very small drill bit...worked GREAT... no lever marks...* 

enjoy

Ktronik


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## jar3ds (Aug 14, 2006)

interesting ktronik,

thanks for the drill hint... 

Interested in your stippled 17mm reflector.... seems like that may smooth out the beam without maybe hurting overall output as much... 

any links to help with how to learn to stipple? Thanks!


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## ktronik (Aug 14, 2006)

jar3ds said:


> interesting ktronik,
> 
> thanks for the drill hint...
> 
> ...




Everyone has there own way... I use enamal car paint (clear)...one quick blast up close for stipple (LS) & a little father away for LOP...up to 3 blasts for HS & HOP (dry in between)...

Just been out for another test in the bush w both units...

the SV1H looks way more natural than the RX0H...BUT putting them together is magic!! The two go together really well...HHHHhhmmmm 

Ktronik


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## Blindasabat (Aug 14, 2006)

I was using a very bright Jet-1 as comparison to a very white tint only, not comparing EOS to EOS. I only have one EOS! My RCR123 driven T-bin Jet-1 is brighter than the EOS, that is all. I should have swapped out to a primary CR123 for the comparo, but I think the compaison is valid. The Q3 and Big Q3 (TM301X-3) are both Lux 3 S-bins. The Q3 is brighter than the Lux 1 EOS, but same tint now.
I prefer a wide optic to a diffuser as you lose less, it just spreads out the beam. I have tried both 15 and 25 degree Carclo optics and like both, but still undecided which is better, but both are better than the stock optic as far as beam goes. Problem is they are shorter optics, so they may not be correctly positioned and doing the best they could be. I want a little hotspot but more flood in my headlight for working up close and not having to move my head to read - like watching a tennis match. The 15 deg has a hotspot with good spill, the 25 deg has very smooth flood gradually dropping off to the sides. I agree that some hotspot is ideal, so I am now tending towards the 15 degree optic for general use.
ktronik: Knowing that LEDs have two distinct 'spikes' on a spectrograph, adding several Luxeon LED's of different tints together will more fill out the spectrum and look more natural, so jar3ds's idea of a dual Luxeon headlight makes a lot of sense - just adds mass. But I want a 1x CR123 or 2AA headlight anyway. Maybe a warm V1 Lux1 with 5mm LEDs would be a compact solution. doesn't somebody make that?


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## chevrofreak (Aug 14, 2006)

ktronik said:


> *Found a new way of opening the eos...just used a very small drill bit...worked GREAT... no lever marks...*
> 
> Ktronik


 

That's how I've been doing it all along


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## jar3ds (Aug 14, 2006)

well good golly... are you too good to share with us better technquies chev? huh huh?


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## chevrofreak (Aug 14, 2006)

jar3ds said:


> well good golly... are you too good to share with us better technquies chev? huh huh?


 
yes! :lolsign:


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## ktronik (Aug 14, 2006)

chevrofreak said:


> That's how I've been doing it all along




Opps... I found an 'old' way of doing it...  

I take it you are going to tell me that you posted that tip ages ago...

I guess thats the learning curve... I am only on to my 3rd eos...  

Enjoy

K

PS: How would a trilux RW0H, RX0H & SV1H work??

maybe a RW0H & 2 SV1H...


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## adirondackdestroyer (Aug 14, 2006)

I just noticed that his thread is getting alot of posts. Since starting this thread I had Chevrofreak mod my EOS for me with a SXOH Luxeon and an IMS17 reflector, and the results are outstanding! The output is quite a bit better, and the beam is so much more useful.

Since getting it back I have gone on two hikes at night with my brother/dad who have stock EOS headlamps, and both of them were very impressed with the beam and power of my headlamp.


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## chevrofreak (Aug 15, 2006)

ktronik said:


> Opps... I found an 'old' way of doing it...
> 
> I take it you are going to tell me that you posted that tip ages ago...
> 
> ...


 
I like keeping my techniques fairly secret


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## Pila_Power (Aug 15, 2006)

C'mon chev - sharing is caring


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## ktronik (Aug 15, 2006)

chevrofreak said:


> I like keeping my techniques fairly secret




Well, I must say from everyone on the forum...Thanks for even talking to us!!! :lolsign:


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## Pila_Power (Aug 15, 2006)

hehe :nana:


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## Cypher (Aug 16, 2006)

I just put an SV1H star in my Eos along with an IMS 17 reflector. This is my first time doing this and I have a question about the reflector. 

Everything I've read says you just drop it in but doing that leaves me with a donut out to about 18 inches to 2 feet. My McR27 in my chopped KL3 is the same so it may just be the way it focuses but does anyone else's have the same donut? 

It also has a lot of artifacts against the white wall which I guess is due to the smooth reflector? 

If I cut the legs off will it seat down around the emitter better? 

What have you done to eliminate the reflector rattle for those of you whose reflectors were a little small?

Sorry for all the questions and thanks for any answers you might have.


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## jdriller (Aug 16, 2006)

Turn the reflector until the dome of the led is fully seated against the base of the reflector. The legs have to fit in the spaces of the star. I you can't get this to work, clip off the legs. The reflector will now sit flush on the emitter.


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## Cypher (Aug 16, 2006)

I have two Eos headlamps. One had a RWOH and the other had a RWAH. I decided to swap out the WA since it was a little bluer than I like. I put the SV1H in that one and have compared the two headlamps (RWOH vs. SV1H) in all the combinations - both with optics, one w/optic one w/reflector and vice versa, both with reflector. 

In each instance the RWOH is superior in my opinion to the SV1H. The SV1H seems to be a totally different beast from the RWOH beam-wise. To my eyes it is not as bright (this may be the tints playing with my eyes) and it's full of artifacts and rings with both optic and reflector. I thought the reflector would give me less throw with more spill but the reflectored RWOH still out throws the SV1H with the optic in place along with more spill. 

I thought it was the reflector not seating properly as was suggested but I can see that it is right down around the emitter. The RWOH projects a near perfect beam with the reflector IMO. 

The SV1H tint is much warmer but I was expecting that of course. I was not expecting such mediocre performance. I actually am having a hard time believing it and am thinking I must have done something wrong. I don't know what though since it's such a simple swap. I'm not a great solderer but it held together and the solder is in the right places so I don't know what could be wrong except the lottery. I expect variation in flux and tint but I didn't realize that collimating a beam could vary so much from one led to another I guess. Or can it not?

Could the dies be different like a joker vs. non-joker thing to make the beam so poor and different from the stock emitter or something?

I'll chalk this one up to experiece unless anyone has some ideas.


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## jar3ds (Aug 16, 2006)

i just rec'd my SV1H in the mail.. i'll pop it in my spare EOS tonight and report back...

I have never had the donut thing you mentioned...


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## jar3ds (Aug 16, 2006)

holy cow! i just popped the board out of the EOS... my luxeon was a QX1G ???? a vf of G? I've never even heard of that?

the G looks like a 6... but from left to write it says QX1(G or 6)W03.....


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## Cypher (Aug 16, 2006)

Jar - I looked closer and the donut is noticeably less than I first said. I overestimated the distance I'm sure in the first place but I think it also lessened a bit after playing with the reflector and shortening the legs a little. It probably wasn't quite seated as jdriller suggested. I am little embarassed at my overestimation as I am not trying to make a mountain out of a molehill. 

Either way I have noticed the same dark center spot at short distances in a couple lights where the beam is still collimating and it's not a big deal. I thought it was a little strange since if we forget absolute distances the stock RWOH has this same effect but it disappears sooner relative to the SV1H. Maybe I'm just crazy. 

So anyway, good times. I think I will keep my RWOH with reflector, put the RWAH back in and give that one to the wife and keep the SV1H for something that will let me drive it harder and have little fun with it. 

Thanks for the input.


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## jar3ds (Aug 16, 2006)

just popped the Carclo 25 degree optic in the EOS (it is too short and would require to build a thicker heatsink under the LED to make up for the lack of height)...

however, I was not overly impressed with it... it did spread the beam out like crazy (the best I've seen in an optic)... but compared to the 17mm reflector is was blown away in all catagories... also the 17mm is 'drop in' which makes it way more appealing to most people...

can't wait til tonight to try out the V1 tint


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## ktronik (Aug 16, 2006)

My EOS SV1H is *much* brighter than my EOS RX0H...w NO donuts...

Does your ref still rattle?? 

As the last post said, re check your reflector seating as that is the only way a donut is produced in a 3w LED...


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## jdriller (Aug 16, 2006)

donut holes - I had an SWOH that wasn't even close to the RWOH my EOS came with. SWOH was a joker too. I filed down the reflector to eliminate the donut, but the intensity and throw still did not match the stock led. I'll have to chalk this up to the luxeon lottery. Top rated R bin, mid grade S bin. You pays you money, and you takes you chances.


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## Pila_Power (Aug 16, 2006)

I got a red luxIII in mine and so far nothing has blown up :yikes:

I dunno how runtime will be affected - if at all - but it IS wierd to look around with red light everywhere. 

I'm gonna have to get some more EOS's cos stupid me used adhesive heatsink compound to fix it in place...and a LOT of it hehe

Looks cool but not really 100% practical.


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## jar3ds (Aug 17, 2006)

well all... i just installed my SV1H...

1) I found that the pry method works better (at least for me) than the drill.... I don't have any 'mar' marks or anything... I still have a lot of the pins in left so it helps line things up for me when I put it back into the housing...

2) Pila: have you thought about using a Lux1 (since they are brighter than luxIII) and using a red filter? You can get that pack of free color swabs and cut a circle the same exact size as the mild diffuser... you can pick from blue, red, green (theres like hundereds of colors/shades) etc... it works very well... but its not as perminant as using a colored led.... (you can always go back to white)...

3) added some non-adhesive thermal compound inbetween the diode and the star (highly recommended to all you eos mod'ers) so you don't have to worry about breaking your diode... it keeps it from sticking and helps transfer heat...

4) *now to the SV1H*... i am VERY IMPRESSED! (For your knowledge, I am comparing two EOS both with 17mm IMS and Mild diffusers (only difference is the XO/V1 tints)... 

I was honestly expecting it to be more yellow than what it was... But it is WARM... it is much more warmer than the WO... V1 seriously maybe become my fav. tint.... It makes browns acually look brown instead of a nasty grey-brown like the XO does...

I haven't had a TON of time to mess with it because I'm @ work but walking out on my buildings roof the gravel looked much more 3D and colorful... more natural... as if I was walking outside rather than having some weird LED illuminating my path like the XO...

I was sort of expecting it to be less bright and such since thats what people have been saying but its either slightly brighter than my SXOH or exactly the same... its hard to tell... its just a lot more warm than ice-blue-white (XO)... however, it almost seems more 'white' (sunshine) than the XO (icy)...

So I don't know.... I'm very motivated for this V1 tint... too bad its more rare 

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Edit: I would say that the led I got is in the 'southwest corner' of the V1 (more toward the white than yellow) while by XO is probably more on the bluer side of its catagory...

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another edit: you know.... I can't really tell if I like the EOS w/ the mild-diffuser or without it.... comparing them side by side the diffuser really hurts the EOS's throw and overall output.. while I don't have artifacts I have this secondary ring that is REALLY anoying to me ... even in use... oh well  hopefully I'll figure out something

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additional edit:

when it comes to the 17mm IMS *MAKE SURE ITS SEATED FULLY!* i've heard people complain that they didn't like the reflector etc... well now i know why people are saying that... its because your not getting the 17mm reflector seated correctly.... i had an old 17mm reflector and it worked like a champ with no adjustments needed...

i now have a newer 17mm and its differnet... the legs are longer so it can mess up your focus... The first time I popped the reflector into the EOS it worked just fine... the 2nd time I noticed it had a donut hole within 1meter or so... and the hotspot was hardly there on distance objects... I had to open it back up and really get it seated down deep... pushed hard and it stayed there... now its fine.... no rattle either...

i hope not many have been anoyed with the reflector based on this..


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## Pila_Power (Aug 18, 2006)

I'll have to order some more Jared to make sure  Will be getting some SV1H's too if I can find a seller.

So you reckon it's not worth worrying about the mild diffusers? I'm looking to kit out a group of roof insulation installers and am wondering what would be the best setup combo to use. I guess the average roof space is all I need and even then you wouldn't need to see ALL the way around, mainly just the task at hand. The diffusers are pretty cheap so I might add them anyway.

I love shopping time!!


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## jar3ds (Aug 18, 2006)

i would say for indoor use (close range)... the mild diffuser is better...

however if your doing hiking/biking outdoor longer range stuff you shouldn't use it... i'm installing a security system as we speak and the mild diffuser helps a lot... its nice having one headlamp with and one without it so I dont' have to take it apart everytime


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## OddBall (Aug 18, 2006)

I was thinking one of these but with two side by side stars - one long range and one short diffused etc. Dunno what power it'd need though. Same as you have your car spotlights.


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## jburgett (Aug 18, 2006)

OddBall said:


> I was thinking one of these but with two side by side stars - one long range and one short diffused etc.



It sounds like you are looking for a cheaper non-caver version of the Stenlight!
StenLight


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## jar3ds (Aug 19, 2006)

i would think that if someone built a dual side by side lux1 headlamp .. using 16 mcr reflectors.... one with and one without a mild diffuser would be the best solution... put a single red 5mm or lux1 near the bottom for nightvision use and you have the best light evah


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## ktronik (Aug 19, 2006)

OT:

I will soon have a CNC bulk head type housing for, cave, bike or head...running off batterys or dyno (bike) w 3 LED's...

One IMS 27 in the middle & 2 IMS 20mm on each side...can run 1w, 3w or 5ws as it has a great thermal parth...

I will keep ya posted...

K


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## OddBall (Aug 19, 2006)

Cool


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## jar3ds (Aug 20, 2006)

please do so... pic's!


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## RickyT (Aug 20, 2006)

I got one of these about two weeks ago and finally had the guts to take it apart. I thought it was pretty nice as it was, but kept reading this so I had to do it. 
It has a nice RW0H star. I have a couple lux III UW0K stars. Is the Vf going to kill the runtime too much, or is it just too high anyway?


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## jar3ds (Aug 20, 2006)

nah... the UWOK's will work... might not be as bright as an S-bin Lux 1 though..... 

Someone once did a comparision on vF's in the EOS...

lowering a vf one letter (from a J to a H) increased runtime 10mins in regulation on high (that test was done in nimh) 

So from that data... i would expect your EOS with the UWOK to have 20mins less runtime on nimh's... however, in the whole scope of things... your U-bin is going to be bright and have better heat management abilities than a Lux I...


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## chevrofreak (Aug 20, 2006)

Using a LuxIII will require modification to the optic holder. The stars on luxeon III's are thicker. It will also underdrive them from what they were binned at, which will change their tint slightly.


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## Pila_Power (Aug 20, 2006)

Yeah - I noticed a reduced output after securing one of my luxIII's in an EOS - still bright as heck but I can't run it at 750ma or 1A  I light output supremo.


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