# Best Bulb for 6-Cell Flashlight



## Ginseng (Apr 26, 2003)

I've converted a Mag 2C for 3xCR123 usage. I'm presently running a Mag Magnum Star LMSA601 krypton bulb in it but I am underwhelmed. The filament images in the spot and focus is terrible. Worse than with a regular bulb. 

What would you recommend for this 9V application? 

Thanks,
Wilkey


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## kz1000s1 (Apr 29, 2003)

In mine I use a Radio Shack KPR112 Krypton bulb. It's being overdriven in this application, however, I have yet to burn one out. Brightness and throw are very close to that of a Streamlight Ultrastinger. I get some filament visible at wide focus, but it focuses nice and tight with a fairly smooth beam. It looks like a light saber at night. This is one of my favorite mods.

Now that batteries are cheaper, if anyone at Maglite had any brains, they would make a light like this themselves.


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## IlluminatingBikr (Apr 30, 2003)

Ginseng,

Would you mind filling me in on how you converted your 2C to a 3x123? I would love to make one myself. Thanks.


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## BugLightGeek (Apr 30, 2003)

Right now I'm using the 'upgraded' 6 cell Maglite bulb in my 2C running 3 123's and can't stand it because I can see a grill pattern in the beam so I'm excited to try the KPR112 and see how it does.

I tried to run a 5 cell mag bulb with 3 123's and it immediately flash bulb'd on me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif


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## Darkcobra (Apr 30, 2003)

Wrong information posted...
deleted post /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twak.gif


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## Darkcobra (Apr 30, 2003)

Wrong info posted once again /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif


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## Ginseng (Apr 30, 2003)

Illuminatingbikr,

I simply used two sheets of closed-cell polyfoam wrapped around three CR123 batteries. I taped the sheets closed around the outside of the battery stack. Sure as heck ain't elegant, but it works like a charm. I can post pics if you need. I was looking at trying the KPR118 bulb, rated at 7.2V but I think I'll pick up a KPR112 at the local Shack to try out. Thanks for the tip!

Wilkey


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## kz1000s1 (Apr 30, 2003)

[ QUOTE ]
*ChrisM said:*

I tried to run a 5 cell mag bulb with 3 123's and it immediately flash bulb'd on me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif 

[/ QUOTE ]

I've been using the same RS KPR112 in one Mag 2C/3x123 for the past 5 months without a burnout, and in other lights for less time, also without problem. 

My 2AA/3xCR123 mod


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## Ginseng (Apr 30, 2003)

Dropped in a Radio Shack KPR112 tonight and it works nicely. Not the precision alligned filament of a SF but hey, not bad for $1.29. A spot somewhat wider than my 5W HD in Mag body.

Wilkey


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## Darkcobra (May 1, 2003)

Ginseng - Might you be able to get pictures up for us?

Thanks!


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## Ginseng (May 1, 2003)

Here ya go. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif







It's so easy, doesn't _really_ count as a mod. As you can see, the central hotspot is comparable to my ab 5W Mag 2D mod. The pic was taken from 1.5 meters. Outside, it throws a tighter beam than my ab, but is naturally yellower. As for brightness, it is pretty bright but does not throw as much total light as the Luxeon mod. The corona is much dimmer but they'll both easily light up the tops of 60 foot trees in the lot next to my house. 

You can also see the rather crappy filament alignment of the $1.29 RadioShack bulb. But hey, at that price, you can afford to pick up a couple and look for the best. Another option is the KPR118 bulb. It's a 7.2V bulb but in the torch, shows no discernible brightness advantage.

As for the polyfoam, I just cut a piece out of some packing material that came with a package and taped it into a tube. You can get as fancy as you like. I like the fact that it works and is free. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif The wrapper at the bottom of the last battery looks a little mangled. That is due to the near match between the last turn of the Mag spring and the overall diameter of the CR123. Oh yeah, the spring is freakin tight. I guess that's why MR Bulk offers custom wound replacement springs.

Hope that helps,
Wilkey


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (May 2, 2003)

I'm doing pretty good with 2 123As and a 4.8V Krypton in my incandescent 2C M*g.

<EDIT> Whoops! I DID have 3 123As and a 112 in that light! Now that my Space Needle is here I really MUST order up a bunch of Batts from Surefire!

Must <still> get to Ratshak!!!


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## Darkcobra (May 2, 2003)

Ginseng - Thanks for the pics!
"Why'd I throw away all that foam?" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twak.gif


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## BugLightGeek (May 2, 2003)

hmmm...anyone know if Mr. Bulk has anymore of those springs left? I'd like to pick up 2-3 of them...


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## PaulW (May 2, 2003)

Thanks ginseng. I followed your lead -- went out today and bought a Mag C, some KPR-112 bulbs, and 4 inches of 5/8 inch automotive hose (which I slit longitudinally to fit the 123s in as suggested here). It works beautifully.

On Monday, I'll call Carley to order a number 808 bulb to run with 4x123, as decribed here.


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## Ginseng (May 2, 2003)

Paul,

Are you going to have them potted? And if so, what the heck does that mean? Do you have to buy a minimum?

Wilkey


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## Ginseng (May 2, 2003)

Ahh, ok. I read the thread again. Potting. Got it. Them's some expensive bulbs. If you feel like parting with one or two, I might take them off your hands.

Wilkey


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## PaulW (May 2, 2003)

All the information is out there on some thread I found a couple of nights ago. Now I can't find it again. It turns out that lemlux, perhaps six months ago, made a special order with Patty at Carley Lamps for something they called an 808. It wasn't in a PR base, so the potted it for him for $1.65 per bulb. Total cost: $7.89 per bulb, no minimum. The potted 808 would then fit it the Mag 2C with 12 volts worth of SF 123s. Evidently when all connected, the voltage drops to about 9.4 volts, underdriving slightly the 808, which is rated at 9.6v, 1.2A, 285 lumens. That means about 11 watts are consumed, and his experience was that the Mag 2C could take that much heat but not much more.

Now, all of this info is taken from the notes I took reading that thread and from my memory. Some of it may be in the thread I quoted (or the thread may contradict what you read here; sorry). If you feel like doing some searching you could try all posts by lemlux that also have "Patty" or "808" or "carley." As I recall, the good stuff was about September or October last year . . . unless I'm confusing it with an Arc set of threads I have been chasing.

My apologies that I can't be of more help. Well, actually I could, but I just can't bring myself to do all that searching again. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Now, the nice thing is that lemlux has done all the ground work. He proposes a cheap alternative, not just to the M3, but to the M4. He has determined that the configuration will work well. He's gotten Patty up to speed. She knows what we're up to and is evidently quite helpful. I believe that she even browses CPF and occasionally posts.

Back to the original mod. I tested the 3 x 123 with the KPR-112 tonight. Nice throw, although the M3 I ordered hasn't come yet, so I have nothing comparable to check it against. That bright spot, with its hole that just won't go away, bugs me though. I put two layers of WriteRight on the lens. That got rid of the hole, but gave me a mottled looking corona. Had to take it off. The thing to do is to sputter some clear Krylon spray on the reflector. I've never done it, but I have read about it here.

For me there's room for both of these mods -- the 285 lumen M4-like beast with the 808, and the ~100 lumen (I'm guessing) M3-like little beast with the KR-112. I suspect I'll use both. The cost, I figure is about $20 and $30, respectively. I wouldn't have even considered this without your post, ginseng, the ideas of the others here and the great pictures.


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## kz1000s1 (May 3, 2003)

The hotspot of the 3 cell should be brighter then that of the M3, but the total light output will be less. Mine is slightly brighter than my Energizer/Surefire P91 mod (200 lumens), though the total light output is much less. The Mag should also have a much longer throw. I've tried mine out to 200 yards with good brightness.


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## Ginseng (May 3, 2003)

Thanks Paul,

The Carley route looks like it's going to be tortuous at best. I think I'll stick to the easy stuff. Can you say KPR144? I also appreciate the open community here. Although much of these guys work at a level I can't aspire to (McGizmo, CNC Dan, Lambda, MR Bulk), I do enjoy splashing about in the puddles.

Dave,

I mirror your observations with respect to a SF 9P/P91. The pinpoint spot of the Mag mod can be tuned to stay extremely tight depending on the distance of the target. I've lit a spot that is easily 1/10 the diameter of a 5W LS Mag mod at about 100 yards. 

Wilkey


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## PaulW (May 3, 2003)

I'm with you Wilkey. I'm not brave or patient enough to take on what some of these other modders do. "Splashing around in the puddles" is really a good way to say that we're having fun doing more modest things. Good luck in your ventures.


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## Sigman (May 3, 2003)

Elektro Lumens (aka Wayne) has an excellent 2D to 3-123 cell converter on his site for about $6...works great! See this thread.


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## radellaf (May 4, 2003)

I'd certainly not settle until I'd tried one of the Xenon mag bulbs in this application. Brightguy should have the 5 cell (6V) and 6 cell (7.2V) available. I bought some of the 5 cell for my Craftsman Ultra Beam (6V 4Ah Pb/H2SO4). Not quite as perfect a focus as the official Sears 6V Xenon PR bulb but good enough, and a little brighter overall.


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## Ginseng (May 4, 2003)

I have not heard of 6V or 7.2V PR base Xenon bulbs. Please correct me if I'm wrong. The ones Bright Guy sells are the same MagLite Magnum Star Krypton bulbs I got from ZBattery. The LMSA601, part number 107-000-195. I will have to look into the Sears bulb though. 

Wilkey


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## Alan_L (May 4, 2003)

After reading this thread I went out and got what I needed to do this easy mod myself. Thanks CPF'ers! I used the Maglite Magnum Star bulbs. Like Wilkey I found that the 5-cell Krypton bulb gave a terrible beam that I couldn't focus into a good shape. The 6-cell Xenon bulb gave a smoother round beam and that's what I have in there now. I don't notice a difference in brightness with the naked eye. I may have to go try generic Krypton bulbs and see how it works. I think its time to order a glass lens from flashlightlens.com!

Alan


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## Ginseng (May 4, 2003)

Oh yeah,

I forgot to mention that I have a Flashlightlens UCL lens in front. It is absolutely fabulous, invisible. My only complaint is that when it gets oil or any sort of dirt on it, the water repellent coating makes it really hard to clean without leaving streaks. I've tried Dawn liquid, soap, alcohol, even orange solvent. This is the only issue I've seen with this item. I think I will step down to a B270 or borofloat and try that.

Another note, I was at Radio Shack today and found a HPR50 5.2V 0.88A halogen bulb. I bought it because it's listed as 20% higher output that the KPR112. Only problem is, it goes poof in the 3XCR123 setup. It was really bright for about 0.25 seconds though /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Strangely enough, the KPR112 0.65A (6V) bulb has a slightly higher listed brightness than the 7.2V KPR118 bulb. Guess that's why I didn't really see a benefit.

I just ordered a Mag 4C from Zbattery. If 3XCR123 are good...

Wilkey


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## kz1000s1 (May 4, 2003)

Wilkey, 
I wish you would have mentioned the HPR50 before you tried it. I could have saved you the $4. The same thing happend when I tried it a few months ago. Remember, we're pushing the KPR112 with 7.2V under load, which makes it brighter than at it's rated 6.0V voltage, and brighter than the KPR118 at it's rated 7.2V. 

I haven't seen a 6.0V or 7.2V Xenon bulb, but I would love to try one.


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## Ginseng (May 4, 2003)

Oh well...Did you try the HPR51? It's a 6.5V 4.55W bulb. Does it stand to reason that if a 6V KPR pushed to 7.2V survives, a 6.5V HPR will as well?

I've seen 3.2V xenon bulbs but nothing hotter in a PR/B3.5/SC mini flanged base. 

Is there in fact a 6V Mag Xenon? I can only recall Kryptons.


Wilkey


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## radellaf (Sep 10, 2003)

Well, you all probably now know about Mag's Xenon Mag-Num Stars, anyone tried the 5 or 6 cell version with Elektrolumens 3xCR123 holder? 

I have no other use for the one that came with my Blaster IV now that the 3-to-Ds have come in, and I've made my Blaster direct drive. I could run 1.2A thru it, but it's plenty bright at the 600mA the NiCd/NiMH cells provide.


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## Ginseng (Sep 11, 2003)

The 6 cell krypton star runs ok on 3x123. The 5 cell, which I don't have, would probably be a bit brighter if it didn't flash. I think you could get high brightness out of overdriving the 5-cell. 

PlayboyJoeShmoe is the king of overdrive and could probably comment. In the time that I last posted in this thread, work has progressed quite a bit. I now run the 9.6V, 1.93A Welch Allyn 01318 bulb on 5x123 and it is the brightest handheld flashlight I've ever seen.

Wilkey


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## PaulW (Sep 11, 2003)

Wilkey,

Have you been brave enough to run _fresh_ batteries with the 01318? This is not a challenge . . . just wondering because I will be experimenting with this configuration soon. Maybe a better question would be _how_ fresh the batteries were.

Paul


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## Ginseng (Sep 11, 2003)

No, not fresh. They had about 3 minutes of runtime in another torch. Thus far, about 3 minutes in the 5X config without problems. I've been thinking about getting a voltmeter to check batts before install. Any advice?

Wilkey


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 11, 2003)

Sorry, as of yet the highest number of cells M*g Xenon I have found is a 4 cell. I've poofed too many Xenons anyway!

My 3x123 light drives a M*g Whitestar Krypton 5cell (NOT the Magnum Star - YUCK!) to a pretty bright and pretty nice beam (cleaned up with Writeright). The bulb is I think functionally similar to the Radio Shack KPR112.

My 4x123+1AA light has a WA01318 bulb. Try as I might, using Carley 1940 reflector or stock, Writeright lense or Acrylite lense... I just can't get a tight beam. With no beam shaper it is a figure 8. With shaper it's a SF type beam.

I also have some pretty bright M*gs like a 4D driven by 5C, and a suprisingly nice 3D driven by 4C. I do a lot of tweaking to center up bulbs!

5x123 Wilkey??? I thought I was taking a chance with fresh 4x +1? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/poke2.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/huh.gif


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## RussH (Sep 11, 2003)

I'm looking for good bulbs for my 6 cell C maglite using 123s. It appears that 9 CR123s will fit easily. Since I don't have a bulb for that voltage (24?) and the likely wattage (20?) would require a Carley aluminum reflector, I'm still using NiMH batteries & 4&5 cell Krypton bulbs. I can get 14.4v .70 amp & 18v .60 amp bulbs here: http://www.lightbulbdepot.com Those are both under the 12-13 watts that the OEM reflector will take. They have MR16 sockets, also. 

My 3 cell C currently has 5 123s running a 10w G4? halogen bi-pin (.2 in. hole spacing) bulb in a Carly adapter (13.8v with fresh SF batteries). The 20 watt bulbs work also but see above regarding the OEM reflector, I'm modding a Carley 1940 reflector for this. An alternate is the 12v .75 amp Krypton bulb sold for DeWalt flashlights. Does anyone know a good source (cheaper than the box stores) for those?


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## Ginseng (Sep 11, 2003)

Russ,

Those would be the KPR144 you're talking about. I have two of them. Tell you what, pay for the stamps and I'll send them to you. The filaments are very long and loopy and thus throws a messy spot. I ran them on 6x123 and the beam was unimpressive. I would try them on 7x123 but whats the point? The large filament results in a diffuse and grotesque hotspot. Oh yes, and it's pretty darn yellow. 

Same problem with the high voltage tool light bulbs. Big filament, horrendous looking hotspot. 

The G4 would have a 4mm pin spacing (0.16").

Hehe, Joe, I'm pushing it... but loving it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Wilkey


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 11, 2003)

Pushing it... Bwahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!

Just wait until my bi-pin to pr adapters get here!

It will only be good for seconds at a time, but it will have a WOW factor of epic proportions!


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## Ginseng (Sep 12, 2003)

PJS,

You have piqued my interest /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Wilkey

Don't forget, the magic smoke is good for a quick high!


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## radellaf (Sep 12, 2003)

BrightGuy sold me the 5-cell Xenon (new, nice type, no lens-end) Mag-Num Stars.

Maybe I'll try one with the 3x123 from my Blaster IV.


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## paulr (Sep 12, 2003)

What happened to that guy who made the batch of 4-to-D adapters? Those would go great in a 3D Mag with an MR16.

Right now I want to mod a 99 cent 2AA light which has some plastic ribs inside to center the AA cells. By filing out the ribs I should be able to put in three 123A's. I'd figured to use a 6D Mag bulb but it doesn't sound like the beam shape would be that great. I'm amazed the KPR112 survived. I've thought of ordering some XPR118's from Tek-Tite. That is, I think the bulb they sell for their 6C light is an XPR118. Any thoughts?


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## Ginseng (Sep 12, 2003)

The KPR118 or 7.2V bulb is about the same brightness as the KPR112 6V highly overdriven. You'd have to run the KPR118 at 7 cells or better to make it brighter than the KPR112 (which thus far, has great longevity at 3X123).

Wilkey


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 12, 2003)

I did what Paulr suggests to an Eveready Purple 2AA light some time back. I can't be sure, but I think I used a KPR112 (M*g Whitestar) then too.

The beam left a lot to be desired. I got a severe batwing effect out of it. It is back to twoAA config.

I found a Dollar General store light called a HotShot that I would be very suprised if it isn't a Dorcy Frostbrite renamed. Anyhow, with no interior mods it holds one Lith AA and two CR2 cells and drives a 4.8v .75a bulb fairly bright. However it has a football shaped beam that is pretty artifacty.

Whoops! Just had it on a bit too long and something melted enough to let the bulb go WAY out of 'focus'. Oh well, it was cheap!

Wilkey, think in terms of 12v.


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## kz1000s1 (Sep 12, 2003)

From 3x123 I've had slightly better brightness from the KPR112 and not had one burn out yet. I also tried the KPR118 running on 4 123's. It wasn't worth the trouble. The KPR112 was still as bright. This was with Radio Shack bulbs.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 12, 2003)

Further inspection shows the reflector deformed right about where the bulb flange was. The threaded bulb holder goes off at an angle!

I swapped the stuff into the Eveready light. NOW it has a pretty tight, pretty Bright beam. Feels considerably more solid as well! Just gotta keep the runtime SHORT! Good training for a future M*g mod....


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## Ginseng (Sep 12, 2003)

Hehe,

Joe, there you go melting stuff again. If it ain't filaments it's reflectors. I fully expect to hear you come back and report a melted Mag switch body. 12V? Hmmm, I smell MR16 or better yet, and MR11 mod. That tiny little reflectored MR11 is so danged cute! BTW, I am pretty sure the pins on an MR LA are a little too large for the CA912 adapter. You might be able to jam it in, but I think it'll no longer be acceptable for G4 bipin bulbs.

Wilkey


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 12, 2003)

Well I AM getting two adapters right? I can leave one unmolested.

And I never did know what people meant by MR16. Is it those textured reflector halogens in the light section of Walmart?

I grabbed a 10w and a 20w naked Halogen while there earlier this evening. The 10w already gets sorta bright on 6V unloaded in my LX. I can't wait to hit it with 4 or even 5 (to allow for the voltage drop under load) 123s!


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## Ginseng (Sep 12, 2003)

Yep,

Sure are and sure can. I can't wait to see how it turns out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Wilkey


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## PaulW (Sep 12, 2003)

Joe,

It's always fascinating and often educational to read your posts. You really are a wild man. Do you buy batteries by the crate? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Paul


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 13, 2003)

Believe it or not PaulW, I'm a poorboy!

I ordered two boxes of SF 123s a while back. I busted one open last night to play with the Dorcy 18V Tool Light bulb I had. But after just several seconds of use, I put them back in the box!

I don't "use" the wild creations. Most are too big for common use, and I fear reliabilty may suffer!

My user lights are TT2L, TT3C and SL StingerHP Rechargable.

The Hot Rod lights are for WOW factor! And I'm more apt to 'play' with the C modded M*gs, as they have cheap bulbs!

I mean really... I own one of Mr. Bulks EXCELLENT SNIIs. What can I REALLY hope to do to better that?

The incandescent stuff IS fun however!

And I think Wilkey is a bit closer to the edge than little old me.....


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## PaulW (Sep 13, 2003)

Joe,

Close to the edge. Yeah. I think that a wild outrageous approach is a necessary part of any creative group. I believe it's important to have someone (or maybe two?) who suggests and tries really crazy stuff. Most of it may turn out to be impractical, and the saner ones can think about it and say "but . . ." when appropriate. But without the outrageous thinker, progress is stifled and we're doomed to the ordinary.

So I'm glad that you do some far-out experimentation and share it with us. But I am also relieved to hear that you are practical about batteries in your user lights. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Paul


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## Ginseng (Sep 13, 2003)

Hehe,

Me? Close to the edge? I'll say this...my next depraved mod is already underway. I can share this with you though...

"Junkyard Dog"

and 

MR-1...........

Wilkey


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## PaulW (Sep 13, 2003)

Yes Wilkey, close to the edge. If you get any closer, we're going to start calling you the "flasher."

Your "next depraved mod." Man, you keep us on the edge of our seats just like Mr Bulk does. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Paul


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 15, 2003)

ARGH!!!

5x123 indeed.

I used the 4 that were already (along with 1AA Lith) driving the 1318 pretty nicely.

I added #5. I THINK it had the edge taken off it, ie: not brand spanking new.

I hit the switch... bbbBBBRIIIGHTttttttt..... POOF!

Glad I got three 1318s!!!!

So do I get the handle "flasher"? 

<edit> Oh yeah, got the bi pin adapters today. Tried the 10W and 20W bulbs on 4 and then 5 123s. I don't feel like they were bright enough (or maybe it was just focused enough) to justify killing 123s. OH! The second (after the poofed) 1318 I put in (back to 4x123+1AA Thank You!) makes a better spot then the one that poofed. Anyhow, as pertains to the Bi Pin adapters...

Perhaps I'll get a hold of some Bi Pin bulbs that make it worth while someday. But I'm STILL glad I got them!

>edit<


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## Doug S (Sep 15, 2003)

I think my favorite way beyond the edge light was discussed in this thread 600W flashlight 
We never heard from this guy again after his first field test. Makes you wonder. 

Back on topic: there are a couple of nice PR based, 7.4V halogen bulbs available in Europe but I've never seen them in the US. If interested, maybe you could work out something with a Euro CPF member. These bulbs are: 
HPR03 7.4V/0.5A/75 lm/25hrs 
HPR04 7.4V/0.7A/114 lm/25hrs
I know that Euro Philips makes them. Possibly other manfs also.


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## PaulW (Sep 15, 2003)

Joe,

Yep, I guess you _do_ qualify for the title "flasher." That is, unless you would prefer "poofer." /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

It's my opinion that the 1318 on 4x123+AA is plenty good. I may try 5x123 but with added resistance. I don't know whether I'll be able to get a brighter light that is also reliable, but the battery stack will be shorter and more comfortable in the 3C.

Paul


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## RussH (Sep 16, 2003)

I found it advisable to stick with the 10w for plastic reflectors with the nekkid 10w bulbs. The fit the Carley PR adapters well. Also You may melt the adapter with the 20w. Note I found GE bulbs to have a filiment across (along?)the diameter of the bulb compared to Philips with a filiment along the axis of the bulb. It makes a big difference in the pattern, especially when you can't adjust the filiment position in the reflector. RussH


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## PaulW (Sep 16, 2003)

Russ,

Yes indeed. I found that running a 12 watt Carley bulb in a Mag reflector for 15 minutes caused the reflector to bubble a little, so the cutoff wattage is right around in there. The WA 01318 is a shade over 20 watts. I would not use it without having first installed a replacement aluminum reflector.

Paul


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 16, 2003)

All of my experiments were tried a: for a short time only, and b: In my 3C M*g with a Carley 1940 reflector for the most part.

In order to have a somewhat fair test, I did run them in a stock M*g reflector as a comparison. Perhaps with bulbs with the filament vertical everything would be better.

But you'd have to see what I saw with no Writeright or Acrylite in front to see what a HORRID beam emerged!

The 1318 driven by 4x123+1AA through a Carley Aluminum and a Writeright covered lense is still the Champion of my stuff!


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## Ginseng (Sep 16, 2003)

Joe,

Sorry to hear about your misfortune..."The Poofer" it is! Anyhow, it's touch and go with the 5x123. Maybe my batts were a little more run down. Anyway, it is still my brightest light for now. I'm working on a 5X123 mod using a 20W MR-11 lamp. It won't be in a Mag body so I don't have to worry about adapters or reflectors. This particular Westinghouse lamp has the vertical filament so I expect it to throw a nice spot.

If it kills me, I'm gonna make the 1185 bulb work. The prospect of pumping out 30% more photons than the 1318 is just too enticing. Funny, until you start messing with the killer incandescent bulbs, you don't really know how much BRIGHT $4 can buy. Side by side, the 1318 makes my 5W on 3x123, look positively anemic.

Paul, what do you think about one of the miniature rheostats like the Ohmite E series. You get 12W of capacity for 300V max in a 5/8" form factor. I'm hoping you could run 20W+ if you kept the volts to 12-14. Seems just right for a Mag D buttcap. 

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Wilkey


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## PaulW (Sep 16, 2003)

Wilkey,

I'm not sure what you have in mind for the rheostat. If you're considering the 1185, you could get a 1 ohm pot (rheostat) to put in series with the 1185 bulb. It would drop a maximum of 3.5 volts, for a maximum power consumption of about 10 watts. A lower value of resistance would be better. A 0.5 ohm pot in a 5x123 circuit would drop about 1.6 volt full resistance. Max power would be 5 watts. Turning the knob to cut the resistance to about 0.3 ohms would drop about 1.0 volt. The 1185 would be driven at about the same level as when DDing with 4x123+AA. Cutting the resistance further to about 0.2 ohms would drop about 0.6 volt. My guess is that this is the point which would be best. Then, as the cells drop in voltage, the resistance could be reduced to zero to get the voltage to the 1185 back up.

As you know, I'm trying to accomplish that by using a bulkhead that incorporates a fixed resistance that could be "in" the circuit or "out" of it. I have yet to make that bulkhead and find the optimum resistance. Perhaps I'll have time during the storm. CPF won't keep me away from it then.

With a rheostat, you will be able to try it out without a lot of the fiddling I plan on doing. If you do this, do it before the storm. Your work will save me a lot of work. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Paul


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## grnamin (Sep 16, 2003)

How about a white EverLED?


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 16, 2003)

I got the Teal EverLED I bought from Sway yesterday. It's more effort than I care to go through to put one in a focusing light (M*g of course). It would cause me to go through a lot getting the incandescent bulb back centered!

However I have placed it in a Rayovac 3D Industrial light for now. If I get it real close to white paper I see a BRIGHT white spot! It throws Teal light <runs outside to check> a decent 100 feet even with the textured flood reflector.

I would imagine that a white or possibly a teal EverLED in a focusing light would perform very well.

Wilkey and Paul:

I don't think I'm going to get anything the size of a 3C M*g any brighter than right now. Unless of course I get a deal on the proper bulb.... <hint, hint>.

I shall be watching for Philips bulbs, and looking at ANY MR or Nekid Halogen Bi-Pin I see ANYWHERE... In search of the elusive vertical filament!!!


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## Ginseng (Sep 16, 2003)

PJS,

Did you know you can drill out the bulb from the MR16 and MR11 reflectors? Then it will pop right into the PR base adapter. With a shove.

I don't think there is anything that you could put in a Mag 3C that would be brighter than the WA01318 at 4.5 or 5X123. I truly think that is as bright a bulb as you can jam into that short of a single-battery stack light. But It's a beaut for sure. Here's my baby. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif





*Specs:*
_Body:_ Mag 3C
_Bulb:_ Welch Allyn 01318 9.6V, 1.93A
_Reflector:_ Carley 1940-modified, undercoated, smooth metallized
_Filter:_ Surefire FM24 flip-up, camlock holographic beamshaper
_Lens:_ FlashlightLens UCL
_Belt Mount:_ NiteIze Lite-Lok, variable position, adjustable
_Grip:_ NiteIze Grip-n-Clip
_Reflective Marking: _Reflexite ultrahigh retroreflective tape
_Contacts:_ All electrical contacts stripped and treated with Caig Labs DeOxit
_Batteries:_ 5xSF123
_Output_ 350-375 lumens

For throw, this baby would dust off any 5W LED. With the beamshaper, it floods like a TigerLight only brighter and smoother. It's compact, handles like a charm and can light up the top of a 13 story building 350' away with nice spot. I love it!

Wilkey


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 17, 2003)

Please explain "drill out".

Feel free to use PM or Email...


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## Ginseng (Sep 18, 2003)

You have PM Joe /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Wilkey


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 18, 2003)

Actually it was an email Wilkey....

THANKS for the info!

ALERT! I was at Home Depot with my buddy tonight. The 'Malibu' brand bulbs in MR format have vertical filaments (I picked up one 20W that was centered BEAUTIFULLY!). The Naked halogens were horizontal (but very straight across!)

I am way short on pocket money so I didn't grab one (or several if I could have!). /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/broke.gif


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## Ginseng (Sep 19, 2003)

Haha,

Right. I guess I was a bit crossed up. I have a Westinghouse 20W vertical ready to go in my latest mod.

Wilkey


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## PaulW (Sep 19, 2003)

Joe,

In what section of Home Depot do you find these lamps in MR format?

Paul


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 19, 2003)

In the one I was in, there are incandescent and flourescent bulbs all down one side of a long aisle. At the end, turn left and look left.

As for the actual section... They are on shelves under the display lights that use halogen bulbs. Like the lights that are motion sensative. Across that aisle were extension cords and such.

Hope it helps!


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 19, 2003)

And Wilkey!

When you get a vertical filament beam, I'd love to know how it looks compared to the horizontal ones.

I IMAGINE it's going to be LOADS better!!!


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## PaulW (Sep 19, 2003)

Joe,

Thanks. I know where the lights with motion sensors are. Next time I'm there, I'll visit that area and check out what they have.

paul


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## RussH (Sep 19, 2003)

Quote from Ginsing:
Those would be the KPR144 you're talking about. I have two of them. Tell you what, pay for the stamps and I'll send them to you. The filaments are very long and loopy and thus throws a messy spot. I ran them on 6x123 and the beam was unimpressive. I would try them on 7x123 but whats the point? The large filament results in a diffuse and grotesque hotspot. Oh yes, and it's pretty darn yellow. 

Actually, I gave my KPR144's to a friend with a 4D takeoff of Maglite (Garrity?) So I'll pass on your bulbs, but thanks for the offer. Anyway, they worked OK with his flashlight with 7 CR123s. But it's not a mag reflector. 

The DeWalt 12v .75 amp PR bulbs (I don't know the number) did work OK in my 3C driven with 5 CR123s (SF) @13.8v under load. But they did throw a messy spot - some of the regular bulbs (I'm still using lots @ 4.8 - 6.6v) are almost as bad. 

I prefer the 10w bi-pin bulb in a Carley PR adapter - you are right about those long filiments. I'm using a GE bulb with the filament perpendicular to the bulb axis. It's fairly long also but not as bad as the tool light bulbs. I have a Philips bulb with the filament aligned axially (still long) but it won't go in far enough to be in the focus. I'll try again after I bore out my Carley 1940 reflector to go in over the bulb holder. 
---------------
Same problem with the high voltage tool light bulbs. Big filament, horrendous looking hotspot. 

The G4 would have a 4mm pin spacing (0.16"). 
---------------
Yeah, that must be what the Carley adapter is. I'll find out - Im saving some bulb carcasses for LED or bi-pin mods....Thanks for the info. RussH


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## RussH (Sep 19, 2003)

Carley's got Xenon bulbs up to 7 cell, 9.1v. I'm using their 5 cell bulb (their 1167 bulb in a PR base) part number 715, 6.4v, .77amp in my 6v lanterns. I've got several of these running on 4.5AH 6v Lead acid batteries. The Xenon 5 cell bulb is as bright as the 4.8v Krypton bulbs (4 cell bulb) that I also use. Note that the LA battery normally operates between 6 - 6.6v. It's a bit hard on 4 cell bulbs. I actually bought these for my 6 cell C maglite. I will be trying some 4 cell xenon bulbs when I can find them or get ready for a $50 order from Carley. 
RussH


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## Ginseng (Sep 19, 2003)

RussH,

Nice to hear that your KPR144s found a home /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I like the Carley 717 bulb. It actually is quite nice once acid etched and powered with 9xAA nimh. 

Wilkey


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 19, 2003)

I answered SOME of my own questions....

Brought home a Phillips MR11 20W Flood, and a Phillips 20W Nekid Halogen.

Both have vertical filaments and both were chosen due to vertical filaments being lined up nicely.

The MR11 (held into the light by the tension of the lense - and I need a re-test, as I used a Writeright lense) made a nice flood beam that was very bright white VERY close to the flashlight. It got pretty yellow by 6 feet away. That was on 13.5v. Next tried 15v. Slightly better.

The nekid bulb, in the Carley 1940 reflector would focus down to about half flood/half spot. It was noticeably yellow at 6plus feet. My 3x123 5cell bulbed 2C was considerably whiter.

5x123 is all that fits a 3C. I guess I should try 6?

Also I need to try the MR11 again with a clear lense!

I'll be interested to hear how your tests go Wilkey!


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 20, 2003)

Further update: (I was going to be out of town from 3AM today - trip cancelled - YEAH!)

MR11, 5 FRESH SF123A, clear M*g lense. IF I didn't look at any other light first.... if I didn't compare beam to any other light... nice flood of light. Doesn't look TOO yellow (just don't turn on anything else that lives near that light!)

I fear however that this thing will eat 123s FAST! I can get nearly the same effect from 3D Rayovac or 4AA Sears or Dorcy or even PT TEC 40. (maybe the beam is only half as wide - but still whiter than this mod) Battery life should be nearly a non issue in those lights as well.

A strange game professor, the only winning move is not to play.

Your tests are awaited with great interest!


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## Ginseng (Sep 20, 2003)

War Games! Great 80's movie. I remember the first computer I played games on was the IBM PC XT. I think it was an 8086 processor with dual 5 1/4" floppies. No video games it was either. Text. Zork I think.

Wilkey

Joe, what was the beam spread on the lamp you got. Did it have a degree designation or was it just labeled descriptively, ie. "Medium"?


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 20, 2003)

The MR11 just said "Flood". The only MR that was designated "Spot" was 50W... NO WAY!

How long do you figure 5x123 will power a 20W MR11??? And would the nekid bulb, with it's somewhat larger filament at 20W have similar life?

And could I hope to get it any whiter with another 123, or is it likely to POOF?

As it is, man this thing could search a room EASY!


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## Rich N (Sep 22, 2003)

I didn't see anyone mention the PT Tec 600 replacement bulb. These have a great hotspot and focus nicely into a non-shadowy (compared to stock) wide beam as well. The Tec 400 replacement bulb is a great one for a standard 4 cell mag as well. I originally used the Tec 600 in standard 6 cell mags, then tried it in a 2 C Mag/3-123 'mod' about a month ago, works great. It's certainly much better than stock Mag bulbs, fwiw.


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## Ginseng (Sep 22, 2003)

Joe,

My MR11 was a medium flood. It ran on 6x123! They were not completely fresh but with the thickness of the filament, I think it can take a helluva lot of overdrive. Still, bright but very yellow. The color temp must be 2800 or less. I'm trying to find a MR11 or MR8 in tight with color temp of 3000-3200.

Wilkey


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## radellaf (Sep 23, 2003)

I'll have to throw those PT Tec bulbs in next time I order from a place that sells 'em.

What I'd really like now is a 6 AA in the space of 2D holder like I think Lambda makes or made. I don't feel like trying to mod my 3-to-Ds for lower resistance.


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## PaulW (Sep 23, 2003)

Wilkey,

As you know, you can elevate the color temperature by more overdrive. Why not use another battery (or two)?

Paul


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Sep 25, 2003)

Update of a sort Kiddies...

I killed the nekid vertical 20W AND the MR11 20W, but not with power...

I had sort of attempted to drill the bulb out of the MR. I also had tried to grind away enough around the bottom to seat it in the PR adapter (That stuff is TOUGH!). When I went to use it in a 4D light adapted to use 6x123, one of the pins fell out. Whoops!

The nekid bulb looked a little crooked in the Carley 1940, so I tried to tweak it a bit. I didn't use much force at all, and it broke just above the pins.

I did get a chance to try both on 6x123 and while not bad at all, my 4.5 driven WA01318, in 1940 and through Acrylite is just short of AWESOME! And in a smaller, cooler light too!

I'm going to troll for some more MR and nekid stuff as soon as I can walk well again! They don't cost THAT much, and I see trying yet MORE volts....


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## Ginseng (Sep 28, 2003)

Interesting!

You know...they make 35W and 50W MR16s /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Wilkey


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