# What are the BEST lights (in your opinion) for night hiking!



## EsthetiX (Nov 21, 2006)

I am looking for 1 well rouned light. These are the qualifications.

*Average or better run time* (compared to other lights).
Able to take _non-exotic_ batteries
*VERY VERY VERY BRIGHT* (for outdoor use)
waterproof is a plus
HAS to look kewl 
Not too big (as in not a hassle to lug around on night hikes)
Solid construction
*Not a head lamp*

I may be missing a few things but those attributes are what first come to mind. I'd like to find a great well rounded light SO HELP ME OUT. I know NOTHING.

If I could get someone to quickly describe the pluses and minuses of LED and NON-LED lights that would be great too. _sorry if there's already a similar thread somewhere. I did search..._

*OKAY NOW LIST YOUR FAVORITE/BEST ALL AROUND LIGHTS!*


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## Buffalohump (Nov 21, 2006)

*Re: What are the BEST smaller lights (in your opinion)*

What do you mean by non-exotic batteries? Do you consider a CR123a to be an exotic battery?

I think you would need an AA light. In which case I would point you towards the following thread:

www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=141282


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## EsthetiX (Nov 21, 2006)

*Re: What are the BEST smaller lights (in your opinion)*

Yah, CR123a is fine. Basically I just want to be able to run the option of using non-rechargeables if possible.


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## gallagho (Nov 21, 2006)

I would have to vote for the Surefire L2 

It's a small rugged LED with two brightness settings. 

High 100 Lumens for 60 Min's
Low 15 lumens for 18 Hours 

I recently undertook a nighttime hike/geocache with trail & off-trail sections, the L2 performed excellently.

100 lumens was great for the off-trail sections the beam profile really gives an
indication of the whole picture ahead & I easily found the cache






On sections with a reasonable trail I switched to low and knew I'd have plenty of time without worrying about battery life. 

I don't think I'll buy another light...
OK OK I lied! I will unless I stop reading CPF





Owen


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## slvoid (Nov 21, 2006)

You'd want a headlamp from a common sense point of view. Shines where you look, hands free.


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## Tachyon (Nov 21, 2006)

The PT EOS headlamp modded with an IMS 17 reflector would be a good choice for hiking. It's what I use almost every weekend on my hiking and fishing trips. I also carry a SL 4AA propoly as a backup.

Tachyon


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## Somy Nex (Nov 21, 2006)

My best all-round light is probably my Pila GL4. It has a very bright incan out one end ( for sheer brightness and superior color rendition, especially for outdoor use) and 4 long-running LEDs out the other end for general tasks. It takes either 4xCR123 batteries, or 2x18650 batteries. That said, the WolfEyes M90 13v setup would replace this as my first choice, if I had one of those.

The U2 takes second, because of its 6 levels of bright LED light and its ability to use 18650s or 2xCR123s.

Another light that may fit your criteria is the mini-HID. Either Mac's 4xCR123/17670 versions, or Silverlegacy/UFOKiller's 8AA version. I don't think Mac doesn't make the 4xCR123 versions anymore, and the 8AA versions also aren't made anymore. But they sure are bright and can also be relatively cool looking with grooves and flutes as below, or a great sleeper light if in a plain Mag host. =)



 
Mac 3x17670/4xCR123 Mini-HID, SF U2, SF A2


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## strat1080 (Nov 21, 2006)

The Surefire L1 is marketed by Surefire as being an excellent backpacking or hiking light. In high mode its as brighter or brighter than a 2D Maglite and will run for 2hrs in regulation followed by several hours of useful light. In low mode it will practically run forever. Get an F04 beam shaper and you can have two types of beam characteristics. With the F04 in place you have a smooth flood beam with no hotspot and without it you have a tight focused beam that throws a pretty good ways. The nicest thing of all, it is only 4.5" long and weighs less than 3oz. It only uses 1 cell and has pretty good runtime on that one cell.

For night hiking however, you are best off with a headlamp. Something like a Princeton Tec Quad or EOS, would be excellent. They use cheap and lighweight AAA batteries which are available just about anywhere and have very good runtimes. Headlamps make outdoor activities much easier to do in the dark.


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## nerdgineer (Nov 21, 2006)

VB-16? With a 18650 you have enough light for from about 5 plus hours at highest to about 5000 hours at lowest level and everything in between. HA3, AR coated glass lens, etc. $55 shipped from waion. I don't have one but I think the optional turbo head generates a slightly wider beam than the regular head, if you prefer.


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## kelmo (Nov 21, 2006)

My primary night hike light is a Petzl Tikka+ headlamp. 

For a handheld light my current favorite is a Surefire KL3 (all throw variant) with FM64 beamshaper on a 9V tube. Good flood and good throw with a 7 hour regulated burntime. 

kelmo


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## Blindasabat (Nov 21, 2006)

What Strat said. Headlight plus an L1 plus F04. Even though I have an EOS and really like it, I'd probably go for a headlight with more spill (or mod the EOS with another optic or reflector - easy, I did) and AA for more run time since you may need to use it on at least medium level for hiking. The L1 will be for additional light as needed, though you could use it by itself too. I use my L1 for jogging at night all the time.
If you feel you will need more run time on higher output levels (if you feel you will use high most) try the very effecient new Inova X0 with reflector - 5.5 hours runtime of flat regulation with what many people say is a good general purpose beam. But I still think the L1 would be better with dual output. Milky L1 even better.

Other good lights would be: 
VB-16 from CPF member Wit's End - 12 levels.
Streamlight Tasklight 2L - 2 level Lux3.

Make sure to use a lanyard on whatever you use.


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## Chronos (Nov 21, 2006)

My alltime favorites for night time hiking (I do a lot of it) are:

1) A modded light- PING MilkySpit about an Optimator w/ Lux V. I have one with an optic and it puts out an incredible field of light, flood and throw. It is the best light I have for night hiking as it runs for around 2 hours on 2x17500s and has an overwhelming field of light. 

2) Surefire L5. It is also a wonderful blend of throw and flood, a close second place. Add a 1-cell extender and run it on 2x17500s for extended runtime too. Add a 2-stage tailcap and you are set for well under $200.


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## Vinnyp (Nov 21, 2006)

I carry an L2 for all the reasons said and I am sure there will be better cree version along soon. But for me night hiking I find NV with an IR spotting light is a lot more fun.


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## EV_007 (Nov 21, 2006)

The G2 is a heck of a hiking light. Very lightweight and won’t break the bank if you drop it down a ravine. With the SC1 carrier fully loaded, I was good to go.



The L2 is an awesome backup light I carry when in the woods. Two level long lasting runtime.

I love hiking and I purposely start later in the afternoon for long hikes so I can get in some night hiking. I usually go on 4 hr+ day hikes that can run into darkness.



My girlfriend and I just hiked a heavily wooded mountain this weekend. With the leaves off the trees, the visibility and throw of the flashlights on the trail was good.

Lots of boulders and uneven ground, as well as roots, logs, mud and small streams littered the trail. 

The light of the LED seemed to flatten out the landscape, the incan allowed better separation of the different ledges and general unevenness of the terrain.

Holding the light down at your side parallel to the ground creates better depth due to the longer shadows than a headlamp mounted light which flattens everything, especially with LED versions. For around camp the headlamp rules. 

Night adapted eyes do not discern small changes in elevation and that dark ankle twisting stump in the deep woods. You can get out of the woods in the dark but a light makes it safer and an incan gets you out even faster.

In predictable, flat, obstruction-free familiar trails in the dark, an LED is fine, but uneven unfamiliar terrain the incan will always rule for me. It took a bit longer for me to decipher changing terrain from the light of the L2 than with the G2.

I don’t think the mighty CRE would render better than my lowly G2 in the dark woods.

Of course I have the Arc-P as the backup to the backup.


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## jch79 (Nov 21, 2006)

+1 to the headlamp comments - PT Eos or Petzl Tikka XP for throw, Petzl Tikka Plus for flood.
john


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## Blindasabat (Nov 21, 2006)

EV_007 said:


> ...The light of the LED seemed to flatten out the landscape, the incan allowed better separation of the different ledges and general unevenness of the terrain.
> ...
> Night adapted eyes do not discern small changes in elevation and that dark ankle twisting stump in the deep woods. You can get out of the woods in the dark but a light makes it safer and an incan gets you out even faster.
> 
> In predictable, flat, obstruction-free familiar trails in the dark, an LED is fine, but uneven unfamiliar terrain the incan will always rule for me. It took a bit longer for me to decipher changing terrain from the light of the L2 than with the G2.


EV makes a good point that I somehow missed even thoug I recently took steps to counter the LED effect myself. Incans are better than LEDs for depth and more 3 dimensional color perception. Some LEDs are better than others though. I have some LEDs that do better than others, so I checked the bins and warmer (V1 tint) and greener tinted white (X1 tint in mine) LEDs are best, though I prefer V1. When I got an EOS this past summer for camping, I replaced the already slightly warm RWOH Lux1 with an SV1H. The warmer tint helped! Not as good as an incan that throws a wider spectrum of light to be reflected, but not too bad. The blue and very white (cooler) tints make the ground look pale and flat hiding some detail and making it harder to discern depth and features. 
My modded EOS (with 15 degree Carclo optic too) was an excellent headlight for walking around the woods. Low was all I needed around camp, but I had upgraded the Lux bin, so that was expected.


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## beezaur (Nov 21, 2006)

I would go with a Gladius.

The Gladius' low is odd for its output. It has enough spill to see by, but it also has a decent sized, relatively bright hotspot that gives you considerable throw, even on the dimmest setting. The bright setting is right there at the flick of a switch. You can have anything in between too.

I take lots of night walks with my Gladius on the farm where I live. My walks take an hour or two and cover meadows, access roads, fields, woods, and riverbanks. I almost never take the light off the lowest setting. I have never found the Gladius lacking. I use the strobe too, to signal my wife back at the house for various reasons.

I actually think the Gladius is best suited as an outdoors light.

Other features:
- waterproof
- easy to operate with cold, wet hands or gloves
- 400+ hrs runtime on low
- tough as nails
- it blinks when it is running low

I think it would be cool to have a polycarbonate Gladius. 

Scott


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## BlackDecker (Nov 21, 2006)

It would help to know your price range. You could get up into the +$200 range quickly with a high-end Surefire light.

And I noticed you bolded NO HEADLAMPS. Ever try one for night hiking? They beat practically any handheld light since you have both hands free, and light everywhere you move your head. Night hiking on uneven ground can prove hazardous, nice to have both hands free in case you fall.

I used to think they were geeky looking, but after using a headlamp on several Grand Canyon treks, they are worth every penny.


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## EsthetiX (Nov 21, 2006)

it doesn't matter. I said *most well rounded*_ (that would mean all terrains) _and its all about your opinion!


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## benchmade_boy (Nov 21, 2006)

i too am looking for a good night hiking light is the e1l a good light fot geochaching and night hikeing or would a e1e be better man im in a pickle.


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## CroMAGnet (Nov 21, 2006)

Welcome to CPF!

You need to give us more data for better info. What type of terrain? Light pollution? Distances? etc.

We have a CPF group that hikes regularly and a few get by really well with the SL Propoly luxeon for throw and fenix for closer range.

I love the Aleph A19 which is similar to a Surefire L4. Nice wide smooth flood with a lot of lumens and hi lo levels.

Tint comes into play here too. bluish tints make foliage look gastly strange but warmer tints or incans show more natural on vegetation.

When looking down deep ravines full of trees you need even more throw, like a Mag85 or Tigerlight. The Quad magmods even with CREE XRE didn't throw well enough.

Also a headlamp is a must if out in the woods for hands free safety. Major point here. You can easily twist an ankle on some roots or slip on rockes etc. I use the Tikka XP plus and find the PT Quad to be too bright.

I bet the new mag 3AA LED would throw pretty good or even the new 2 or 3D but I haven't tried them.

Try a search for our CPF night hiking thread started by Lowbat.  Do'h! or just click the link in my sigline


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## beezaur (Nov 21, 2006)

I am a big fan of headlamps myself. However one thing about them is that you can have reduced depth perception because you cannot see shadows cast by the light.

Scott


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## slvoid (Nov 21, 2006)

The dept perception thing is a valid point too. I find when I'm on a bike, a helmet mounted light gives you way less than one on the handle bars. The shadows get longer as your light gets lower.

If you strap the light to your groin, that would provide a very good mid-level source of light for depth perception.


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## slvoid (Nov 21, 2006)

Double post.


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## :)> (Nov 21, 2006)

My recommendations are based upon lights not using the Cree LED. All of these meet your criteria for toughness, long running and high output and they are "kewl" to boot!
McGizmo's HD45 w/WW0T: If brightness is valued over runtime, this should give you around 6 to 7 hours on low approaching 35 to 40 lumens according to my eyes.
McGizmo's HD45 w/UX1K: If runtime is valued over brightness, this light is a little less bright but has a much longer running low; around 18 hours as advertised in the McGizmo forum. Don't be fooled though, this light is no slouch in the brightness department!
McGizmo's 27LT w/UX1K: Similar review as the HD45 w/UX1K but in a smaller form factor. Maybe a little better runtime on low but the output on low is a little less useful than the HD45.
Surefire U2: All around winner with long running 2 lumen low and scorching 100 lumen high (as advertised). To my eyes, my U2 puts out as much light as my HD45 w/WW0T do.
Get all 4 and then suffer with the extra weight during the hike or the indecision before going on the hike of what one to bring when you know all along that any of them will work just great!

-Goatee


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## ginaz (Nov 21, 2006)

i usually find more problems with too much light than with too little.


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## h_nu (Nov 21, 2006)

I dislike bugs in the face so I don't really enjoy headlamps in the summer. A G2 with the BOG 3w LED and at least one other flashlight in a pocket or on a lanyard.


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## cave dave (Nov 21, 2006)

Headlamps do have a bug problem. But I thats what i use 9 times out of 10. The rest of the time I use the HDS U42.

I think the HDS EDC series has a very good beam distribution for hiking. Plus you can walk around in any mode and get momentary high any time you need to spot something then it returns to the previous mode as soon as you let go. A2, L1, PD and others do this.

Beam pattern and switch functionality is something to consider in an all purpose hiking light. I think this makes the HDS way more useful than the FF3, U2 and others for hiking.


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## waterboiler (Nov 21, 2006)

Well when you rule out a headlamp, I look at two lights for night outdoor walks. It is always good to have a backup. There are two different requirements, local/trail light and spotting ( what was that noise ? / is that the trail marker ?).

For trail light an L2 can not be beat, on low ( generally more than enough light to see where you are going ) it lasts a very long time, high will really impress you/your friends but only ~1 hr runtime. For spotting an M3T if $$ are not a concern or a 9P with a P91 to save quite a few bucks, battery life is poor on CR123's but it gets used in short bursts.

For a 1 light solution either an A2 or a U2. The LEDs on the A2 are quite bright and will do for path light with the incan in reserve for spotting. The adjustable levels on the U2 covers the ranger quite well but is pricey. On a budget a G2 with the P60 and a few sets of spares is a great "balanced" beam.

LED v. Incan, in very brief terms: LED = better run time but less throw. Incan = more throw at the price of runtime but with better color rendition. LEDs are always evolving so this may not be the gospel for long and there are good throwing LEDs - just being general.

No matter what you choose carry a backup - even a Surefire can fail, although very rare.


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## tebore (Nov 21, 2006)

I find my HDS EDC serves any task outdoors really well. If I need "day" where I am a quick blast with my Mag85 usually does the task if the HDS on Max can't.


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## fleegs (Nov 21, 2006)

Hello. 

For the best all around light I would recommend the HDS U60. You can program the 4 brightness levels (choose from 21). The higher settings could be used for hiking and the lower settings for extending life around camp. Plus this light has step down regulation which is a nice way to tell you how your battery is doing. It can use both regular and rechargable 123 batteries. It is waterproof. (The light is designed with caving in mind.) It can be held in the mouth fairly easy. Very low maintenance.

Now why would I recommend the HDS U60? Because I tend to let my eyes adapt to the dark and use the least amount of light I can. And it is the most reliable light I have found with very low levels. Then I keep a bright incandescent (M3/M4 type) for lighting the path ahead if needed (or playing). If you are hiking in an unknown area and have to use a map, a light that you can dim quickly is very nice to allow you to read the map. I found that vegetation eats the light and maps tend to "share the light".

That being said I have yet to find one light that can meet all my needs in the outdoors. All of them have trade-offs.

I could also recommend the first or second generation VB16s (no experience with the third generation) but have not found them reliable. I would love someone to come out with a quality light designed around the VB16. I love the two button design.

I agree with the others that incandscent do better outdoors and that is why I carry a bright one.

Good luck,
rob


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## Aaron1100us (Nov 22, 2006)

My favorite light for night hiking is my 24 watt AE Powerlight. It is bigger than a 3D mag but does have a strap so that helps. 2+ hour run time, great spill beam and lots and lots of throw.


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## bhj1 (Nov 22, 2006)

I'm going to throw a couple of pricier choices out there. I've used my Surefire U2 for night hiking and it's great. Has 6 levels of brightness. Nice tint and pretty throw on the higher settings. Great runtime on the lower settings. I also just got a Surefire Kroma, but have not had the chance to use it night hiking yet. I can tell it will be a good choice though. Two brightness levels of all three colors: white, red & blue. It's nice to have the option of using the red or blue when white is not needed. I too will recommend a headlamp. A headlamp will be a real benefit if you need both hands.


Bill


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## Wrangler (Nov 22, 2006)

Affordable, reliable and really useful: Streamlight Tasklight 2-L 3W
2-stage switch. Very good runtime on low and mostly used in this mode when walking at night time. Really bright with decent throw on high mode.

You could possibly add a Streamlight TL3 if more throw is needed.

If I did not have the Streamlight Tasklight I could be well served with the floody beam of an (the latest generation) Inova X5 in the darkness!


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## Concept (Nov 22, 2006)

I have found my L2 to be the best in my bunch for walking at night. Love that flood of light.


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## whippoorwill (Nov 22, 2006)

The SF L2 is just the ticket. But the Fenix L2T would work perfectly, if you don't want to pay SF prices.


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## Chronos (Nov 22, 2006)

I also have yet to take my Kroma out for a night hike. Hopefully I'll get to in a couple of weeks.

Two of my hiking buddies use LEDBeams. I still have one too, but it is relegated to collecting dust on a shelf downstairs (in case of power outage). For around $24 shipped it is essentially a Mag 3C clone with a well heatsinked Lux III. Runs for hours and hours and has a decent flood beam, but is mainly a thrower. It is pretty rugged (they've dropped their lights more than a few times) and at $24 who cares if it gets dinged?

I took my HID light out once. WOW. When I adjusted the beam to flood it pretty much illuminated everything as far as my eye could see. It easily penetrated the woods and did a pretty good job with color rendition- better than my LEDs. But WOW was it bright. I often prefer to walk with my LED lights on low, to preserve my night vision. It is nice to know that I have a "high" setting if/when I need it. To that point I do prefer multi-stage lights. My old Gladius + FM34 was a great hiking light.


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## Mike Iver (Nov 22, 2006)

I would suggest a Princeton tec 40. Runs on 4AA, waterproof, small, bright, and will only cost you $20.00.


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## tron3 (Nov 22, 2006)

If you ask me, anything with C or D cells is really the only thing to give you LONG lasting power. We are talking roughly 8 and 18 amps compared to the 2.5 amps of AA's.

Here is one of my favs that uses 4 C-cells. About 1" smaller than a 3 D-cell Maglite, and about a 1/3 thinner. Two reviews there as well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product//B000E6D0XY/ref=cm_aya_asin.title/002-7960911-1861623


If you want anything smaller, brighter and longer running, you have a variety of AA lights to choose from, but you will need to spend a lot on Lithium AA for the run time you desire.


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## tebore (Nov 22, 2006)

tron3 said:


> If you ask me, anything with C or D cells is really the only thing to give you LONG lasting power. We are talking roughly 8 and 18 amps compared to the 2.5 amps of AA's.


 
Careful. REAL Rechargable D/C are in the 11000-15000mAh range. Alkys can't deliver enough amps under load in a high draw situation. Don't always count on bigger = better.


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## benchmade_boy (Nov 22, 2006)

so would a e1L/e2L or a e2e be better? man i really need help chooseing so please help


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## Bror Jace (Nov 22, 2006)

Some of us here think less-is-more for walking in the woods ... assuming you are on trails you are somewhat familiar with. In the forest behind my house, I have used a Minimag with a Nite-Ize drop-in and found it works fine for walking two labs after dark.

My favorite for the task are the floody, 5mm cluster LED lights ... especially the 11 LED light known here as the "Malta Police Light." 

Other recent threads on this subject:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/135170&page=1&highlight=woods

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/123157&page=1&highlight=woods


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## TonkinWarrior (Nov 23, 2006)

If your night walks bring you face-to-face with (a) serious personal safety scenarios, and (b) a wide variety of lighting conditions (including ambient light) requiring both Flood AND Throw...

... Don't dink around with cute/subtle/charming/techie-toy under-performing lights.

Just get the SF L5 and be done with it.


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## firefly99 (Nov 23, 2006)

benchmade_boy said:


> i too am looking for a good night hiking light is the e1l a good light fot geochaching and night hikeing or would a e1e be better man im in a pickle.


Get the E1E and a KL1, then you would have two lights.


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## TORCH_BOY (Nov 23, 2006)

I like the fenix lights, plenty to choose from and affordable


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## Bror Jace (Nov 23, 2006)

*TonkinToy*: _"If your night walks bring you face-to-face with (a) serious personal safety scenarios ... don't dink around with cute/subtle/charming/techie-toy under-performing lights."_

Hmmm ... during my night hikes I frequently happen upon squirrels, chipmunks, the occasional wild turkey and lots of fuzzy bunny wabbits. Do they apply? :thinking:


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## frogs3 (Nov 23, 2006)

Dear Flashaholics,

I would like to add the perspective of the "older" night hiker, whose vision after sundown just is not what it was even 5 years ago. I NEED LIGHT, dammit, and my low power lamp is an X990 35 w HID with a nominal 2000 lumens, or maybe a bit more depending on the ad writer. If I fall, I break. My balance is not as some of you (I'm guessing here) younger participants, so I want to catch the subtle shadows of the woods, low branches (I hate having my glasses pulled off by a branch my little light didn't show -- please don't laugh, as it happened already, and I am legally blind without them in the daytime.) It was very tricky finding those glasses without stepping on them. That was when I decided to invest in the BRIGHT lights. No more conscience about prices. 

Now I go out with a XeVision BarnBurner 75 w HID. Either of these units runs for an hour, which is all I'm good for anymore. They must not be directed at the eyes of fellow hikers for obvious reasons, otherwise they have no drawbacks from my perspective.

I have an Inova T5 or T2 with me in a pocket as a backup. They are small enough not to be a burden, but have sufficient output to get me home if necessary. The path back is better remembered than the one out.

So, if you are getting mail from AARP, then consider the heavier, brighter HID lights, as mentioned by Aaron1100us, because your eyes, joints and bones have different parameters than those of your younger colleagues.

This message has been brought to you from the Twilight Zone, and the reality of it is not for the meek. Happy hiking.

-Harvey K.


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## joema (Nov 24, 2006)

fleegs said:


> ...For the best all around light I would recommend the HDS U60. You can program the 4 brightness levels (choose from 21). The higher settings could be used for hiking and the lower settings for extending life around camp. Plus this light has step down regulation which is a nice way to tell you how your battery is doing. It can use both regular and rechargable 123 batteries. It is waterproof. (The light is designed with caving in mind.) It can be held in the mouth fairly easy. Very low maintenance...Now why would I recommend the HDS U60? Because I tend to let my eyes adapt to the dark and use the least amount of light I can.


Ditto everything he said. I've done night hiking with my HDS U60, Fire-FlyIII, Surefire U2 and A2. They are all good for that. Each has slight pros/cons over the other. IMO it's vital you have multiple output levels.

If I could only pick one, it would probably be the HDS U60. It has the best low levels, smaller size, yet sufficient output for most tasks. If size and cost wasn't an issue the U2, although its low level is a little too bright (but still dimmer than the A2), and its spillbeam width is a little narrow. However it's very powerful and flexible.

The A2 LED low beam is nice and broad, and the incandescent high beam may give better target recognition outdoors.


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## AndyTiedye (Nov 24, 2006)

75 Watt Xevision BarnBurner HID for hiking. And landling light aircraft.
(Xevision's core business is landing lights for airplanes).

I can see needing light, but that's a LOT of light.

I have a 13 watt HID on my bike, and I go a lot faster than hiking speed,
and the AARP has started trying to get me to sign up too.

With the new LEDs from Cree, I'm wondering if we even need HID anymore
(at least for applications smaller than airplane landing lights).


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## etc (Nov 24, 2006)

I love Princeton Tec headlamps.


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## Etienne1980 (Nov 24, 2006)

Go for a blackdiamond head lamp ! But it uses the exotic CR2 batt.


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## fleegs (Nov 24, 2006)

Frogs3 your post had me laughing. Hiking with a barnburner...I just can't imagine it. Someday I guess. Although, I am hoping that you are the exception and not the rule.  


rob


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## TonkinWarrior (Nov 25, 2006)

Bror Jace said:


> *TonkinToy*: _"If your night walks bring you face-to-face with (a) serious personal safety scenarios ... don't dink around with cute/subtle/charming/techie-toy under-performing lights."_
> 
> Hmmm ... during my night hikes I frequently happen upon squirrels, chipmunks, the occasional wild turkey and lots of fuzzy bunny wabbits. Do they apply? :thinking:



After biting my tongue for 24 hrs., I will comment upon this disrespectful post (above) which is genuinely disappointing -- coming from a presumably informed CPFer -- in a discussion re an important practical application for our beloved flashlights.

More specifically:

1. My name here is TonkinWarrior, NOT "TonkinToy." 

I selected this name to honor the patriotic, often heroic U.S. Navy men with whom I served during the Vietnam War aboard warships in the Tonkin Gulf. Many made the ultimate sacrifice for their country. Many more returned to a largely ungrateful nation. Accordingly, this post's snotty wordplay is another slap in their face. And mine.

Perhaps this poster should seek a speech-writer job on a certain Massachussets senator's staff -- to help him insert his foot in his elitist mouth re the U.S. military, once again. 

2. When the above poster was a 1-yr.-old in diapers, I was planning bombing missions and training pilots in survival skills -- including REAL "night-walks" after parachuting into the Vietnam-Laos jungle.

3. When the above poster was not yet old enough to drink, I used a serious flashlight (augmented by Other Tools) -- while out for an innocent night-walk with my dogs in the rural Rocky Mountains -- to repel and capture escaped-convicts-in-a-stolen-car who tried to break into a distant neighbors' home. 

Under the surprise/come-as-you-are scenario I encountered, a cute "less-is-more" tree-hugger light would not have cut the mustard. And a nice, totally unprepared family would have been hurt bad... long before the police arrived.

4. Over the years, I've lost count of the cougars, coyotes, skunks, porcupines, feral dogs, muggers, and car thieves that my potent flashlights (sometimes augmented by Other Tools + training + politically-incorrect attitude) have enabled me to thwart.

But then, I don't live in Upper Billaryville where squirrels, chipmunks, fuzzy bunny wabbits, and the Tooth Fairy prevail.

On certain topics, I don't Chill Out, either.

-----------------------------------------------------------
"Criminals must be taught to fear their victims." 
-- Col. Jeff Cooper (1920-2006), Principles Of Personal Defense


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## greenlight (Nov 25, 2006)

I normally don't post about character attacks, but I agree, that was an uncalled for and un-necessary post.. I'm just glad that I don't encounter any unsafe scenarios in my town after dark.

Personally, I don't take many night hikes. The view's not that great.


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## tibim (Nov 25, 2006)

I'm surprised no one has mentioned it but the Fenix L2T is a great light for hiking. Excellent overall beam with nice flood + throw. 2 output modes & long life. Price can't be beat either. You can spend $45 on the fenix or 200+ on a U2 or HDS light, but you're not getting that much more for your money with the more expensive lights. 

My hiking light is a U2 by the way. If I didn't have a bunch of flashlights including the U2 and was just looking for one hiking light I'd get the L2T. It is also what I'd recommend to any non-flashaholic friend.


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## bfg9000 (Nov 25, 2006)

Agree with EV_007, holding the light low helps with noticing uneven terrain. I also don't care for how headlamps attract bugs and reflect off fog right in front of your face, but then a headlamp can be attached to your belt! The low mounting means more contrast and the beam doesn't annoyingly move around with your head, arms or legs.

If I don't need much light I use an SMJLED Versabrite (20hr runtime on 2AA) with just the head peeking out of a pocket, and when I need a lot I'll use a MagHID (2hr runtime on 8AA rechargeables, 90 min on alkalines) in a Nite-Ize Lite-Lok on the belt.


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## phypaa (Nov 25, 2006)

The multi-stages brightness of U2 is very attractive, but the switch problem scare me. I need a reliable light for the night walk.


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## EV_007 (Nov 29, 2006)

bfg9000 said:


> Agree with EV_007, holding the light low helps with noticing uneven terrain. I also don't care for how headlamps attract bugs and reflect off fog right in front of your face, but then a headlamp can be attached to your belt! The low mounting means more contrast and the beam doesn't annoyingly move around with your head, arms or legs.
> 
> If I don't need much light I use an SMJLED Versabrite (20hr runtime on 2AA) with just the head peeking out of a pocket, and when I need a lot I'll use a MagHID (2hr runtime on 8AA rechargeables, 90 min on alkalines) in a Nite-Ize Lite-Lok on the belt.




Headlamp around the waist or attached to your belt is not a bad idea. Keeps hands free and lowers the light angle extending shadows. Good idea., I'll have to try it on my next outing.


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## Tuna (Nov 29, 2006)

Surefire A2. Its relatively lightweight, durable, moderatly priced- (approx. $156), Gives regulated incandescent light for long distance and its LEDs are perfect for shorter distances and longer runtimes. I recently used it in Death Valley for a week of camping/hiking and it was my favorite all around use light. (of course, I brought whole bag of other lights too!)


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## frogs3 (Nov 29, 2006)

*Re: Re: RE: Night Hiking*

Dear AndyTiedye, fleegs and Fellow Flashaholics,

Clearly my perspective for enjoying the nighttime outdoors is a bit different from most of those whose opinions seem sound and based on good personal experience. Just wait till your eyes don't dark adapt for over an hour or more -- in total darkness, and driving becomes a thrill after sundown. The visual pathways simply aren't what they were when we were twenty.

Yes, I do use a very strong light, which over in the HID Forum, is regarded as something versatile, not just for landing planes. I have been attacked by an aggressive dog that got away from its owner's leash, while out for a "relaxing" walk. As the dog came towards me, it was the ability to blind the sh-- out of that German Shepard, swinging the central beam across its face to create a "strobe" effect, that allowed me to not have to go to Plan B, in my left pocket having a sharp edge. Fortunately, events unfolded leaving no one (human nor canine) permanently injured, and I was able to go about my business without having to explain why a dog was dead. (TonkinWarrior has made this point -- some of what is out there in the night can be dangerous, no matter where we live. If all it takes is a light to stop trouble, everyone wins.)

So, although some of my post was a bit lighthearted, "aging gracefully" should merely respect the inevitable changes that come with the passage of time.

Enjoy today, by whatever means you feel comfortable.

Harvey K.


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## lucio (Nov 29, 2006)

fleegs said:


> Hello.
> 
> For the best all around light I would recommend the HDS U60. You can program the 4 brightness levels (choose from 21). The higher settings could be used for hiking and the lower settings for extending life around camp. Plus this light has step down regulation which is a nice way to tell you how your battery is doing. It can use both regular and rechargable 123 batteries. It is waterproof. (The light is designed with caving in mind.) It can be held in the mouth fairly easy. Very low maintenance.
> 
> ...



this is not the u60 u're talking about,right? http://cgi.ebay.it/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130052077585&fromMakeTrack=true

anyway,u guys think it could be a good buyng or u suggest it's not even worth try?


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## Art Vandelay (Nov 29, 2006)

The HDS U60 with a SureFire F05 Red Filter, and a Streamlight TL-3 make a good pair. The HDS can be used as a headlamp by clipping it to the bill of a cap. The Streamlight TL-3 is powerful and light. It can be carried for long distances clipped in a front pocket without discomfort.


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## AndyTiedye (Nov 29, 2006)

TonkinWarrior said:


> Over the years, I've lost count of the cougars, coyotes, skunks…



If you shine a really bright light on a skunk, will it spray you?


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## Art Vandelay (Nov 29, 2006)

AndyTiedye said:


> If you shine a really bright light on a skunk, will it spray you?


No, it takes more than that to scare them. But not much more.


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## TonkinWarrior (Nov 30, 2006)

AndyTiedye said:


> If you shine a really bright light on a skunk, will it spray you?



A very good question!

Answer: Not if you spot 'em first... and stay beyond their range!

Actually, I've used various (potent) lights to "cut" through brush and spot the critters before we got within get-to-know-ya distance. That's where strong Throw lights function well as effective Early-Warning Radar.

Once, while out walking my dogs at night, I spotted a skunk 50 yds. away. My older dog knew enough to turn around. However, the younger dog charged the skunk -- over my frantic calls -- and got sprayed right in his face! THAT was a very long night. 

Another time, in post-sundown dim shadows, I flashed my big Mag-Charger on an off-the-path thick clump of scrub-oak that my old lab was sniffing/circling... and spotted a big porcupine in full-nasty mode. I grabbed my dog's collar -- just as she was about to munch-down on a quill sandwich! Though that was pre-LED (over 20 yrs. ago) a kinder/gentler soft LED light would definitely NOT have had the punch to cut through the shadows and dense vegetation obscuring that porcupine. 

Dog saved. Porcupine spared. Big veterinary bill avoided.


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## zehnmm (Nov 30, 2006)

I second what others have said about the L2. In my case, I use an E2E body, KL4 head, and an Aleph 2-stage tailcap. Battery = protected 17670.

Since the E2E body has a clip, I can clip it on my cap for a head-lamp type equivalent.

When I go hunting, this setup is what I carry in my daypack.


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## js (Nov 30, 2006)

OK. I have only skimmed through the posts in this thread, so my response will be a little "out of touch" as it were. But here goes:

If this light is for *hiking* at night, more than hiking, camping, hiking some more, and if price is no object and CR123A's are OK and you want the best all-around light, I would recommend the following two lights:

1. SF A2. In the past I have used this light a LOT for night hiking. It works great. And my eyes prefer incan light for outdoor use.

2. SF M6 with the MN15 lamp assembly installed. I talk about this in my SF M6 X-LOLA: 200 lumens for 2.5 hours thread, so check it out for more details. But in short, it's the perfect amount of light for night hiking, _provided your dark adaption still works pretty well_. (Same goes for A2).

I go out walking at night a lot, especially this time of year, and currently the SF M6 with MN15 is my top choice. And if you have 6 spares on hand (which are quite light), you have 5 hours of runtime. Good enough for the longest hike you are ever likely to take a night--even if you run the light fulltime.


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