# Tri-Star | Quad-Lux Build Tutorial



## modamag (Jun 12, 2005)

*1.	Introduction*
The purpose of this document is to provide a step by step guide in order to build a 240+ lumens Tri-Star and/or a 360+ lumens Quad-Lux. The build processes are almost identical for a MagLite C | D host.

*1b.	Difficulty level (3.5 / 5.0) *
Minimal experience with soldering is required.
Total time requires ranges from 1-2 hours depending on skill level.

*2.	Tools & Parts List*

Required Tools:
-	1x	Soldering station
-	1x	5/64" or 2mm Allen key
-	1x	Needle nose pliers
-	1x	Wire stripper
-	1x	Razor blade (MagC only)

Required Parts:
-	1x	MagLite C | D (new version)
Serial # must begins with a "C" or "D"
-	3x	Luxeon Stars (for PTS)
-	4x	Luxeon Emitters ( for PQS)
-	1x	PTS or PQS heat sink
-	3x-4x	IMS S020XA reflector (Sandwich Shop)
-	1'	24 gauge wires

-	1x	Arctic Alumina epoxy (Sandwich Shop)

Optional but Recommended Items:
-	24 gauge Teflon wire & Bi-Pin connectors
-	UCL (flashlightlens.com)
-	Arctic Silver thermal grease (Sandwich Shop)

*2b.	Host & Battery configuration*
Tri-Star Direct Drive Configuration (resistor may be necessary depending on Luxeon bin & drive level)
Mag1C - 1x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion - Luxeon in parallel
Mag1D - 3|4x14500 Li-Ion parallel - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag1D - 3|4xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2D - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag3C - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag3D - 3xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4C - 4xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4D - 4xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel

Quad-Lux Direct Drive Configuration (resistor may be necessary depending on Luxeon bin & drive level)
Mag1C - 1x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion - Luxeon in parallel
Mag1D - 3|4x14500 Li-Ion in parallel - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag1D - 3|4xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2C - 2x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion series - Luxeon in series/parallel (2x2) *
Mag2D - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag3C - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag3D - 3xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4C - 4xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4D - 4xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel

Tri-Star Regulated Configuration (fatman driver)
Mag1D - 4xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag2C - 2x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion series - Luxeon in series *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag4C|D or larger - AA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series

Quad-Lux Regulated Configuration (fatman driver)
Mag1D - 3x14500 Li-Ion in series - Luxeon in series
Mag2C - 2x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion series - Luxeon in series *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag5C|D or larger - AA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series

* Recommended for reasonable performance/size

*3.	MagLite Disassembly (5 minutes)*
Let's start with the removal of the light head. Rotate the head counter clockwise for 15 rotations, and then the head should just fall off.

Next is the removal of the stock MagLite switch assembly. Depress the button to the ON position then pinch the rubber switch cover to remove it (Figure 3-1). Alternatively, you could also use a needle nose plier to pinch the rubber cover. With the Allen key, place it inside the switch hole and rotate counter clockwise to loosen the setscrew (Figure 3-2). The switch assembly should easily slide out the rear (Figure 3-3). 




* Figure 3-1




* Figure 3-2 




* Figure 3-3


*4.	Switch Modification (30 minutes)*
Using the Allen key unscrew and remove the focusing wheel (Figure 4-1).

Pull out the metal grounding strip with the needle nose plier.




* Figure 4-1




* Figure 4-2

*For the MagLite "C" only*
Using a small razor blade, gently pry open the switch assembly (Figure 4-3). Be extremely careful so that the spring and washer do not fall out and fly all over the place.




* Figure 4-3

Remove the front contact piece with needle nose pliers.




* Figure 4-4

Cut a 3" piece of 24G wire and strip ¼" of the Teflon shielding, then insert the wire into the front contact piece previously removed (Figure 4-5). Apply some solder on the wire so that it does not slip out.




* Figure 4-5 

Install the contact piece into the switch body and reassemble the switch core. 



 
* Figure 4-6

*For the MagLite "D" only*
Push the switch core out of its housing. Disassemble the core by separating the blue from black cover. Be extremely careful so that the spring and washer do not fall out and fly all over the place.



 
* Figure 4-7

Remove one of the two metal leaf spring and sand down the "V" section in preparation for soldering.

Cut a 3" piece of 24G wire and strip 1/8" of the Teflon wire. Solder the wire to the leaf spring.



 
* Figure 4-8

Optional: Using a hacksaw (or band saw), cut off the switch pedestal. This will provide more space inside the light head for the converter or other electronics.

Now reassemble the contact piece and the switch core and switch body.


*For either MagLite "C" or "D" body*
Cut the metal grounding strip, sand the tip to make it easier for soldering then bend it into an "O" shape.

Cut a 3" piece of 24G wire and strip 1/8" of the Teflon wire. Place the stripped wire inside the "O" and apply solder.

Now reassemble the metal strip with setscrew to the switch assembly.

Cut a small ¼" section of shrink tubing to hold the two wires together.

Optional: Strip the wire and using a crimper (or needle nose pliers) to connect to the female end of the bi-pin connector.



 
* Figure 4-9

*5.	Light Engine Assembly (30 minutes)*
Thoroughly clean the heat sink (PTS | PQS) with alcohol.

Mix the two part thermal epoxy then apply a thin coat to the back on the Luxeon. Note: A single drop of epoxy will go a long way.

Place the Luxeon inside the heat sink recess pocket. For the PQS, just rotate the emitter it will lock itself once it falls in the pocket. *DO NOT ATTEMPT* to line up the emitter leads to the vertical epoxy relief channels on the PQS. Those channels are designed for the excess epoxy to escape out. The emitter leads should be 45° off axis. 



 
* Figure 5-1

Optional: If you plan to use this with a converter then place the Luxeon so that they the word "Lumileds" point in one direction for PTS. This will reduce the need of extraneous wiring which will decrease efficiency of the circuit.

Place the assemble heat sink into the light head. Install the SO20XA reflectors and the lens. Tighten the lens retaining ring so that the reflectors no longer move around. At this point there should be enough force between the lens and heat sink to press the Luxeon in place.



 
* Figure 5-2

Let it cure for at least 20 minutes.

Optional: If you're using the bi-pin connector then it's time to prepare the male end. Connect the negative wire of the bi-pin header to the negative end of the Luxeon and v.v. for the positive.

Apply solder to the six solder pads closest to the center hole. Strip and cut two pieces of wires to form connecting bridge between the pads. Hint: Using a needle nose plier to hold the wires while soldering will prevent the wires from rolling.



 
* Figure 5-3




* Figure 5-4

*6.	Final Light Assembly (20 minutes)*
Install the switch assembly back into the light body. Center the button. With an Allen key tighten the set screw. Reinstall the rubber switch cover.

Optional: If you are using a converter such as BadBoy, Downboy, Fatman or nFlex, it is recommended that you pot the converter against the light body to help cool the converter.

Recommended: Apply a generous amount of thermal grease (Artic Silver) to the outer body thread then screw on the light head without the heat sink or reflectors (Figure 6-1).




* Figure 6-1

Apply generous amount thermal grease to the shoulder of the light head (Figure 6-2).




* Figure 6-2 

Connect the bi-pin connector male & female end. Insert the light engine so that it's seated squarely on the shoulder. Rotate the heat sink half a revolution counter clockwise for the wires to fold internally. This will also help spread the thermal grease evenly around the heatsink.

Install the three IMS SO20XA reflectors. 

Install the lens and tighten the lens bezel retaining ring. 

Hint: To avoid the lens from rotating and getting scratch, use a cloth and your finger press down on the lens.




* Figure 6-3 

Note: If for any reason your UCL is not "Ultra Clear", I recommend cleaning it with a little Windex and newspaper. Try to avoid direct hand contact with the UCL because your hand will leave a layer of oil on the glass.

*7.	"Let There Be Light!"*
Congratulation, the light is now finish. It's time to have fun. Just don't look directly into the light.




* Figure 7-1

*========================================*
*============== Side Notes ==================*

1. If you want to build a single Luxeon mod follow MrBulk's Space Needle II Build Instruction.

2. If you're planning of Direct Driving this light, please refer to the Direct Drive Reference Sheet for an estimated current output level.

3. PDF version of this is available here.
Hosting courtesy of the Sandwich Shop.

<font color="blue">Please let me know if there is any ambiguity or any recommendation to improve on the build process.</font>


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## AuroraLite (Jun 12, 2005)

Hi, Modamag!

Excellent guide, very clear and easy to follow! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

And just one humble suggestion/question--I remembered reading somewhere that George's board(nflex or uflex?)might not required potting, and IIRC, potting actuallly might make it not work properly(?). I did a few nflex without bothering to pot them in the past, but what did your experience tell you? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## IsaacHayes (Jun 12, 2005)

If you pot, make sure to use Artic alumina, as the others can be slightly capacitive and mess up the electronics. Potting also keeps it from knocking around. You can also use plain 2 part 2ton devcon epoxy to pot with too.

If you are direct driving, then wiring the luxeons will look different than what is shown here. What is shown here is hooking them up in series for a driver that supports that.

Other than that, great guide!


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## modamag (Jun 12, 2005)

Typically most of George's drivers (fatman, nflex, and VIP) are very efficient 90%
With single Lux type it's not much of a problem. In the worse case scenario LuxV @ 1000 mA would only mean ~0.7W of heat thru the converter. If you don't run it for a long period of time (10+ minutes) it's no problem.

With multi-lux it's another story. For 3xLux (TW0J) @ 1000mA it's 11W of power. with over 1W of heat accumulating on the converter. It will heat up much quicker. When the thermal shutoff circuit kicks in you'll get a strobing effect (if you're lucky) or even potentially frying the switcher.

My experience have only been with fatman for multi-lux. I still have not did a multi-lux FlexMag yet but I figure the affect would be the same.


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## cue003 (Jun 12, 2005)

Wow, excellent guide indeed. I will like to attemp tthis one day. Should be fun.

Curtis


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## wquiles (Jun 12, 2005)

Excellent guide - /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif

Will


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## VWTim (Jun 12, 2005)

What kind of beam pattern do those IMS reflectors put out? I'm looking to build a multi LED, flood type light. If I want throw I've got a Mag74 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif


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## PhotonAddict (Jun 12, 2005)

Niiice guide. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I like the bi-pin connector - makes it easy to swap things around. I've had Tri-Star mod on my "to-do" list for some time. I think it's time for me to increase its priority /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Silly question, will a tri-star run off 2D cell NiMHs and a Fatman driver or is it best to use 6xAA NiMhs? (i'm guessing the current draw would be too high with the former)


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## Pila_Power (Jun 12, 2005)

I have nearly got all the parts together to do this mod - I have a nflex and am concerned now with the amount of heat produced and how it is possibly going to damage the switch or nflex.

Are there any tested/proven methods to avoid costly damage through heat build-up?

Thanks guys - and Moda: AWESOME JOB on the guide!! I was looking for something just like this. I need a step by step help through this, could you please possibly add a couple of detailed pics of the ideal way/position of mounting the driver?

I'd prefer a non-messy solution, no grease all over the components if possible, though I'll do whatever is most recommended.

Thanks again Moda!! *PRINT THREAD*


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## VidPro (Jun 13, 2005)

i think you overrated the difficulty , i was able to do the Tri-Star mod, with a hammer and a bandsaw /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hahaha.gif

now if you had had this tutorial up when i did mine, it might have been "normal"

Required Tools: 
- 1x Radioshack 3$ 25W soldering gun
- 1x 5/64" or 2mm Allen key 
- 1x Old roach clip 
- 1x Wire Stripper, or front teeth, whichever you can find
- 1x steak knife , sharp
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## Former_Mag_User (Jun 13, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*VidPro said:*
Required Tools: 
- 1x Radioshack 3$ 25W soldering gun
- 1x 5/64" or 2mm Allen key 
- 1x Old roach clip 
- 1x Wire Stripper, or front teeth, whichever you can find
- 1x steak knife , sharp
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif 

[/ QUOTE ]

Strange...I needed a box of bandaids after I finished mine. Soldering irons are hot and X-ACTO knives are sharp. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif


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## modamag (Jun 13, 2005)

*VWTim* IMS SO20XA provides one of the most useable light beam. It's a compromise btw throw & flood. If you want more flood use the 17mm counterpart.

*PhotonAddict:* You answered it yourself /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif BTW fatman have a Vin min of 2.4V /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

*Pila_Power:* I pot my driver directly on the side of the Mag light. BTW the PDF version is here .

*VidPro:* I rated the difficulty level as follows:
1. Drop in module. eg. sandwich, Diamond
2. Light assembly/dis-assembly. eg. Mag74, Mag85
3. Soldering, minor electronic understanding.
4. Soldering, dremeling, lathe, mill, converter assembly.
5. Complete light design. eg. tvodrd & PEU & Endeavor

You just crack me up _*Wire Stripper, or front teeth ... *_. I try to keep this light inexpensive. With your recommendation my dentist will become a millionaire (if she's not already one!).


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## 3rd_shift (Jun 13, 2005)

Does the bottom of the sink need to be beveled to get it to sit down all the way in the mag head?
I'm starting to find a few maglite c cells that have, a not so squared landing for the heatsink, preventing the heatsinks from both you and b2eze from sitting down all the way into the mag head lately.
These have been 2c and 3c black Maglites that have been real wierd about this thus far.

The D cell PTS units I got from you a while back did sit down all the way into the D cell unit's head perfectly.
In fact, cpf'er idleprocess reviewed a 3x3 TYOH with one of your pts heatsinks that fit PERFECTLY. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
The poor overdriven TYOH stars have not failed me yet in that one. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Edit:
Photonfanatic now has thermal compounds as well to go with your emitters/stars for these kits. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## IsaacHayes (Jun 13, 2005)

PhotonAddict: or you could go with 3C NiMH in your 2D mag. That's what I did. Direct drive, I used 3 TXOK luxeons, and wired them all parallel. With the 3 NiMH Direct Drive is just about perfect. You need to make sure your luxeons are "K" Vf. You use a 1" PVC pipe to sleeve the batteries, and cut the stock tail cap spring so it fits where the spare bulb did. Then you grind off the anodizing at the bottom of the tailcap for the spring to make contact...

Just a thought... No convertors, and you can use 5,000mah NiMH C's... That's what I run, works great /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## VidPro (Jun 13, 2005)

Hey modamag, did you ever see my "prolight" rgb thing?
i used your Tri-star sink on it.
Prolight "stars" UFO type round stars, and luxes will all fit that thing. so its versitile too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=983965

and of course my Insane 2D - 3D mod, so i could have Massive run times with 9000ma rechargables.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=961623

once you figure out how to toss out the mag switch, the modamag sink i used, gave me room for a WHOLE nother D cell.


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## AuroraLite (Jun 13, 2005)

Hi, Modamag.

That's very good point for considering the efficiency and the potential of higher heat buildup damaging the board. I still havn't used the Tri lux sink from you yet, and am waiting for the Fatflex to complete the story. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

As for single lux III/V nflex mods, with usages of more than 30-60 min at highest drive level(1A) at a time, I had so far observed no heat damage/problem for the nflexes without the potting amongst the few that I have built. And one of my friend did a Tri-lux III with a nflex a while ago, and it seems to be ok so far without the potting...but I never did a fatman modded yet, so it is great to have read your article here about your approach.

Btw, best of luck to you with your current projects and your upcoming 'big' project! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## andrewwynn (Jun 13, 2005)

Great tutorial.. i have a feeling more and more people will have a 3 or 4 lux mod in their mag... those PQS and PTS are a work of art... the only alternative suggestions i have is that it's possible to do this mod with zero mod to the light. 







this picture shows how i supply the ground path and hold my fatman driver in a 'can' i made from 3/4 copper tubing (dremeled in a little 'llp' to hold it).. 'look ma, no wires'.. 

Now with this design i had to remove the anodizing from the inside of the battery tube, but in my next one i'll have that little copper spring soldered to the ground pad on the fatman and bent in an 'L' shape to touch the side of the PR base.. for this to work.. the total height of the fatman 'can' and contact has to be less than 9mm.. but it's a 'no mod' solution.. don't have to take apart the switch or grind on the mag body. 

In my design, the board of the fatman is heat-sinked to the emitter sink, which has plusses and minuses.. the switcher chip has some insulation from the outside world, so it is possible to get my light into 'blinky' mode where the switcher chip overheats.. but i'm running about 18W or more through 4 emitters from one driver.. i have a feeling that the 3-emitter solution and less than 1000mA would not even have a problem. 

Hope a bunch of people make quads and tris out of this now... it is 'the bomb' and one of the hardest things in the process is getting the emitters lines up purdy... when at the shop get some of those TV1J stars that are on sale and use the PTS.. it could not be eaiser to wire or assemble than that. 

-awr


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## PrebKlok (Jun 13, 2005)

OK, I have to reply now... I am using a Mag 2C with 3 RCR123A. Again THANKS for your hack on the Fatman...

I am wondering how your dimming works, but here is my solution ( just a plain pot) :






I had to do the heatsink by hands, using a 1.5mm cobber plate :






4 pcs where assamplied with 2 component thermic epoxy:


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## andrewwynn (Jun 13, 2005)

that is just beautiful to see that copper hand-made heatsink.. it's why i love CPF so much.. seeing the inventive creative stuff that people do.. 

hope that pot is logarithmic.. it is very nice to have dimmer control, huh? I have a digital-pot solution that i hope i can share with the world soon.. still one of my 'top secret' developments.. i made my VIP 8-levels using a special logarithmic digital pot, and i'd like to incorporate it into the fatman solutions as well.. but i don't like the added dial.. prefer twisting the head, so still working on solutions for that.. 

in the mean time, check out my RT4 thread.. it shows a hint of my control mechanism.. it has a bar that goes through the fatman can... like the aluminum cylinder i see on the back of your heat sink.. and presses on something as the body tube comes toward the heat sink. 

That is an old solution the new solution is much cleaner.. i need to get it all incorporated into just the heat sink so it is purely plug-n-play. 

you are welcome on the fathack.. did you get the low-volt cutout incorporated too? make sure you see the latest entry on my RT4 page about that.. needs some tweaking to get the value set correctly.. i will have a better idea soon what value is needed... if you see that post later i will have an update of the exact values i used for 3 LiONs.

-awr


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## IsaacHayes (Jun 14, 2005)

PrebKlok: cool mod, I like the knob on the dimmer, very nice! Amazing how you cut that cooper from hand, and got them so smooth!


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## wquiles (Jun 14, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*IsaacHayes said:*
Amazing how you cut that cooper from hand, and got them so smooth! 

[/ QUOTE ]

I was just thinking the same - talk about a steady hand /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Will


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## mateen (Jun 15, 2005)

Modamag - Thanks for the walkthrough and also the helpful PMs you replied to...I just finished my Tri-Star (3xTW0K DD on 3C in a 2D Mag) and was amazed at the brightness of this thing, even on half-used batteries! Gotta go to the store and get a DMM and some good C's - anyone got a favorite? Thanks again Modamag - great work!


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## andrewwynn (Jun 15, 2005)

love that solution (3Cs in 2D).. it will be a very easy solution for one of my upcoming designs.

-awr


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## andrewwynn (Jun 15, 2005)

love that solution (3Cs in 2D).. it will be a very easy solution for one of my upcoming designs.

tri-lux are amazing.

-awr


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## mateen (Jun 15, 2005)

I was trying to think of a way to run the Tri-Star in a short body on a small number of cells - 3C in a 2D seemed like a better fit for me than 8AA in a 2D wired in series. I agree - this thing is amazing - and darkness is falling outside...


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## jtice (Jun 15, 2005)

VERY nice hand crafted copper sink !!!
Looks liks you sanded it down nice and even on the OD /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I have all the parts ready for my Quad Lux.

3C Mag (may be cut down some)
Copper Quad Sink
4 TWOJs
4 20mm reflectors
2x18650 cell pack

just waiting on the fat-flex to be released /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## VWTim (Jun 16, 2005)

Great minds must think alike. I just picked up a silver 2D mag from Target's sale a few hours ago along with some Duracell C's, and ordered all the remaining parts from modamag.


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## mateen (Jun 16, 2005)

Another nice feature using the 3C in a 2D body is that you have good battery flexibility. If you cut the spring down just right, and use the bottom half, you can now use D's or C's in your light. Push the spring upside down all the way into your de-anodized tailcap to use your 3C's for good brightness. In a pinch, though, you can flip the spring to its stock orientation, take out the sleeve, and use 2D's to power your light at a lower but still respectable level. This would be handy when camping, during power outages, etc, where you've run down your supply of C's and can only find D's. Also, D's taken from someone else's incandescent flashlight will still power up the LEDs after the hotwire goes dead. You've got to cut the spring just right to be able to seat 3C's deep enough and also retain enough spring to properly tension the 2D's.


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## VWTim (Jun 21, 2005)

Got mine built this afternoon, Excellent is all I can say.

FWIW: Current draw
3C Duracell Alkaline's in 2D body
3x TWOJ wired in parallel
DD, no resistor
Cap draw test netted 2.4 amps after settling down for ~20 seconds. 800mA's each, which sounds perfect in my book


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## mateen (Jun 21, 2005)

Awesome. I am building another because the first I did was a 3xTW0K which turned out to be a bit too safe - 1.5A at the cap. I am shooting for ~700mA and the parts are en route for another DD 3xTV1J - sounds like I will be able to hit it. I pulled the 3xTW0K Tri-star out to put on a Fatman.


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## Archangel (Jun 21, 2005)

About half-way through the instructions seem to stay with the tri-star. Is there anything particular to the quad from there on? Would battery configuration be the same?


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## andrewwynn (Jun 21, 2005)

if doing a parallel DD.. three or four is the same, just one more set of wires to the 4th emitter... likely won't have as much current to each emitter because of the internal resistance of the batteries but would still be more over all light.. i would definitely try NiMH batts.. are you using 3C in a 2D config?


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## Archangel (Jun 22, 2005)

That's the plan, yeah. I didn't want to go longer unless i would be shooting myself in the foot if i didn't. I wouldn't, would i?


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## modamag (Jun 22, 2005)

*PrebKlok & andrewwynn:* Very nice piece of art.

*mateen & archangel:* If you want more lumen/in then I recommend a Mag2C (tailcap mod) & using 2x Li-Ion cells (18650 or 18500) and a PQS-C. Hook them up in a series parallel (2x2) configuration and you'll get ~1300mA max thru each Luxeon (TW0J).

BTW: mateen 1.5A is that 3xC Alk you were using?


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## sp5it (Jun 22, 2005)

That`s great guide. Thanks for your work. I wonder if I will put it together with photos into pdf file anybody will be interested? Personally I prefer to have that guide offline on my computer, than online, when links to photos will be dead in the future.
What do you think about it?
Mike


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## andrewwynn (Jun 22, 2005)

I put two 18650s into my 2C light the other day by removing the spring.. i didn't remove the anodizing on the bottom of the tail cap.. and i would put a form of a spring (most likely steel band wrapped around a rubber band) in the tail.. there is no spring in the top of the mag2c i have, but maybe the newer models they fixed this.. i've heard people just using a paperclip, but i don't like the lack of dealing with heat expansion. 

-awr


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## mateen (Jun 22, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
BTW: mateen 1.5A is that 3xC Alk you were using? 


[/ QUOTE ] 

Modamag: Yes that is on some fresh alkalines. Then I returned the DMM I used and tried another one - measured a few sets of batteries and got between 1.3-1.4A. I know I ought to use better batteries for better performance but I really dislike dealing with the charger/recharge/don't overdischarge issues. Maybe I'll have to bite the bullet eventually anyway...


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## dat2zip (Jun 22, 2005)

The tutorial builds are linked in the descriptions on the shoppe.

Quad PDF Document herer. 

Tri-Star PDF here. 

Wayne


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## andrewwynn (Jun 23, 2005)

got a laugh from your sig Wayne.. did you use to have a 'dropped another tiny resistor'? I know somebody had a comment about coughing out a 0603 resistor.. in any event... reminded me of dropping luxes on cement.. lucky you with carpet :-D

-awr


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## Former_Mag_User (Jun 29, 2005)

modamag, you didn't touch on how to hook up a board like the fatman. Would the two wires from the switch and the female connector wires be hooked up to the board?

EDIT: Or is the bi-pin connector also used between the board and switch?

Switch-->BiPin-->Board-->BiPin-->LED


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## andrewwynn (Jun 30, 2005)

when i put a fatman in the mag.. i actually hold it in-place in the heat sink... and replace the bulb with a screw in a rubber 'expansion nut'.. the return path is a copper leaf spring with a silver contact stolen from a relay.. it is soldered to the ground plane on the fatman and comes up to meet the side of the PR bulb.. zero mod to the body or head.. everything is in the heatsink... they are coming to a webpage near you... (drop in 1.2.3.4 emitter solution for mag.. no mod just screw it in).

most people putting a fatman into a mag.. will stick the driver to the side of the switch compartment with epoxy to heat sink it to the shell.. and take apart the switch guts to wire it in directly.. usually putting a small hole above the switch to put in a dial for brightness... 

The fatman as well as most drivers.. do not have a shared ground.. the emitter neg has to have a distinct wire going back to the driver, so be careful with how things are grounded.

-awr


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## greenLED (Jun 30, 2005)

Wow, excellent guide!! I love these detailed guides.

For a electronix dud like me, could someone expand on the options for powering these puppies? It'd be nice to have separate lists for the Tri and the Quad mods.

I see 3C in 2D body mentioned, but that seems DD. (right?).
If I used some kind of converter (say nFlex, or BB), what would the powering options be?

Thanks a bunch!


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## mateen (Jun 30, 2005)

I made Tri-star DD on 3C in a 2D, on 3D, and on 4C in a 3D. I also made one with a Fatman on 4C in a 3D. Now I'm building a Quad with a Fatman on 3xCR123 in a 2C. I like those Fatman drivers!


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## andrewwynn (Jun 30, 2005)

fatman is the bomb... i've destroyed about as many as i've used.. i definitely push the envelope to the very max.. i did learn how to replace the switcher chip when i kill one though... the destruction part led to some very neat advances.. like using a fatman with a 3x LiON combination which it's not supposed to.. and perfecting a low-voltage hack that turns off the light when it reaches a cut-out voltage. 

power options are near limitless.. think about what you'd like to deal with charging etc.. and what kind of chemistry and see if you can get a voltage that will work with a driver you'd like to use.

I almost exclusively use the fatman driver but I was made keenly aware of the fact the VIP driver will work nicely in a 2cell light with a single emitter.

i'm designing a light right now with a fatman driver... I'm deciding if i want to use 4 or 3 emitters.. the trade-off... i can run 3 emitters full power from 3D cells... but as the voltage drops i loose power... or.. i can run 4 from 9.6V using an 8AA->2D adapter.. or.. i can use a 2D or 2C sized light.. and use a pair of 18650 LiON cells.. they fit nice n tight in a 2C light, or with lots of space in a 2D light. 

I will probably build the head and run it off 3D batts or 4Cs in a 3D body... or possibly 3Cs in a 2D body... the options are perplexing because they are almost endless... however.. it's nice to have a driver versatile enough that i can use 3Ds 4Cs or a pair of LiONs without changing the driver.. same configuration.. just would have to put in my cutout ckt if using rechargables.

-awr


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## dapyro (Feb 1, 2006)

I can't use the link to open the PDF for some reason. Does somebody else have a link to it? I'd like both the PDF's if possible.

Will it be possible to build a quad star with the new K2 luxeon with the original parts?

thanx


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## Mirage_Man (Apr 26, 2006)

How important is it to isolate the stars from one another and the PTS2?


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## Kal El in SLO (Apr 27, 2006)

> How important is it to isolate the stars from one another and the PTS2?


I'm not quit sure i know what you mean. If you're worried about shorting the stars.....then dont worry, the star material does not conduct electricity.

i have a question for people who are doing these mods. How do you keep the wires from getting all twisted up when assembling the light? I ended up soldering the wires to the stars for my last step (once the head and heatsink were screwed in) to avoid this. The only problem is......if i decide to dissassemble the light, i have to either desolder the wires or let them get all twisted up.


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## DonShock (Apr 27, 2006)

When I built one, I left the wires fairly long to allow for the twisting. I also pretwisted them several turns in the opposite direction so about half the turns of the head were actually untwisting the wires.


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## modamag (Apr 27, 2006)

*Mirage_Man: *If you're running white stars then you got nothing to worry about. They are electrically isolated. However if you're using R/O stars, then the backside is + (wait was it - :thinking.

*:Kal El in SLO: *To keep the wires from being twisted you actually got several options.

1. solder the wires to the stars as the last step like you suggested.
2. pre-twist the wires like DonShock suggested. This is suggested if you're using a pot.
3. Use a connector like the ones in the picture bellow.
- I would assemble the star, PTS2, and converter with a male connector about 3" long. 
- With the switch assembly out, I would first install the Mag head & light engine.
- Connect the light engine & switch connector thru the ON/OFF button hole.
- Lockdown the switch assembly set screw.
* Perform the reverse for disassembly. This way the wires are nevered twisted.


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## schiesz (May 21, 2006)

I've been working on one of these to give my dad for father's day. I was a bit worried about the wires twisting so I made up a carrier to mimmick the way the PR blub connects to the stock [email protected] bulb stalk and epoxied it into place in the back of the PTS. Its pretty rough looking, but seems to work pretty well. Made out of a baby shampoo cap, a cut plastic coat hanger, and a little spring. I'll post a pic of the nasty thing in a little while.

I really liked that I was able to leave the stock internal parts alone, and you can unscrew the head and put a bulb back it if you ever wanted to (not sure why you'd want to do that). 

I did it all in my old battered mag for now, but it will be simple to move the new host I ordered for dad.

Thanks for the instructions! This was a great project.

schiesz

EDIT TO ADD PICS:

I did say it was ugly... Good thing dad will never have to open this thing up.


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## Mark_Paulus (Jul 10, 2007)

The PDF file is missing. Does Modamag have a new homesite, or is it located somewhere else?


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## Fixmaster-J (Mar 4, 2008)

Hi,
Can anyone tell me if i use a PTS2-D, 3 seoul P4's and SO20XA's.
Will they fit in the head so that the reflector's push against the mag-lens?Or will that damage the led's?
I also have an old type of mag head. If i use that one then i cant screw the heatsink it but if i remove the screw tap then i can fit it in using luxen lenses, is this better?
What is better to use, lenses or reflectors?


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## PhotonAddict (Mar 5, 2008)

schiesz - nice work. 
btw: have you seen 3rd_shifts tutorial? If you prefer to wire directly to the switch he has a little fix to prevent the head from being turned resulting in twisted wires.


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## schiesz (Mar 5, 2008)

No, i'll have to look up that tutorial. BTW, did you see the date of the post? My dad has been enjoying that light for almost 2 years now!

schiesz


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## PhotonAddict (Mar 6, 2008)

oops, nope, I guess I just checked the date on Fixmaster-J's post. 
Ah, well... a well deserved bump for the thread that got me started in building multi-led mag-mods.


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