# Nyogel question?



## cy (Jan 4, 2005)

*Nyogel for Surefire U2 O-ring & elect switches*

Nyogel for Surefire U2 O-rings & electrical switches

7779ZC silica based for aluminum surfaces with dampening for all Surefire O-rings.

759G for tin/lead electrical surfaces for all surefire electrical switches.

Edit: Surefire says to use a di-electric or conductive, non mineral, silicon based grease. 

959G is a silcon based conductive grease and is the correct grease for U2's selector O-ring

application instructions: 

1. take plastic tooth pick and clean out gap between plastic selector ring and aluminum body.
2. smear 959G into gap with toothpick, try to force in best you can. 
3. repeat on the other side. 
4. clean extra grease off and place light into your pocket.
for min 30 minutes to warm grease. 

grease is too heavy to penatrate small gap. after light warms up in your pocket, 959G will soften up and penatrate to o-ring. 

result is selector ring turns butter smooth. not too soft nor too hard. perfect for one hand operation.


----------



## udaman (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switches*

Cy,

I am confused, the point of your post is what?
Do you wish to discuss this product, or what is it that you are trying to inform us of? Size15's has already mentioned the 759G in another thread on Silicone grease for SureFire flashights and dano mentioned the aluminum additives, I have already supplied information on cost and availability from Nye Lubricants' small order distributor in the USA-TAI Lubricants. These greases will work for any flashlight.

Did you see my post here?

Electrical Contact Grease


----------



## cy (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

759G is for tin/lead electrical contacts

and no I didn't read your post for electrical contact grease. because I needed lube for U2's oring.

there were people wanting to know the correct lube for U2's sometime sticky selector ring. 

I sure don't want to put the wrong lube in my U2. kinda hard to take apart if wrong.


----------



## turbodog (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

[ QUOTE ]
*cy said:*
759G is for tin/lead electrical contacts

and no I didn't read your post for electrical contact grease. because I needed lube for U2's oring.

there were people wanting to know the correct lube for U2's sometime sticky selector ring. 

I sure don't want to put the wrong lube in my U2. kinda hard to take apart if wrong. 

[/ QUOTE ]

If the lube is synthetic based then my choice of mobil 1 oil should fine I am guessing.


----------



## cy (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

Just wanted to state reason I started this thread was so this info for U2 owners would not get buried in the U2 lumens thread. 

Also I refuse to post anything further in the lumens thread. the lumens issue has been beat to death. not many can measure flux anyways. 

Surefire recommended a non migrating silicon based lubricant (grease)

the Nyogel engineer said silicon and non migrating was an oxymoron.


----------



## Size15's (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

I have been advised to use NyoGel 759G on all threads (and therefore o-rings) that are at or close to electrical contacts (ie: TailCap threads).

I have both. I don't see any point in using the 779ZC for bezel threads only.






I've not needed to lube the dials of the U2's I have. I'm not sure how I'd go about lubing the dial. I've once rinced one of the U2's I have under warm water to clean off some wet mud (when I dropped the U2).

Al


----------



## cy (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

My U2's selector o-ring squeals. 

Since I've got both types enroute. I'm going to use 779ZC on the selector ring and 959G on the tailcap. 

it can't hurt using the Nyogel for specific application it was designed for.


----------



## rycen (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

How are you going to get the lube inside the ring?


----------



## cy (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

with a pick, going to place a dab of gel in the groove where O-ring is and work it in.


----------



## wptski (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

[ QUOTE ]
*cy said:*
My U2's selector o-ring squeals. 

Since I've got both types enroute. I'm going to use 779ZC on the selector ring and 959G on the tailcap. 

it can't hurt using the Nyogel for specific application it was designed for. 

[/ QUOTE ]
cy:

I have both on order too! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I used a silicone based grease made by CRC for automotive connectors on my U2 bezel head. I don't know which one, either the grease SF used or mine is forming small balls on the shoulder/ledge of the powerpack. I've been using this grease for some time but never seen this happen before the U2! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif


----------



## McGizmo (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

I was using Nyogel on my builds but noticed that it (the amber stuff) likes to gum up and thickens after a while. I have since gone to a "pure" silicone grease that seems to work much better. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif The problem with "sticky" lubes used in areas that you can't access is that they like to grab dirt and crap and hang on to it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Since the U2's seal is not accessible for cleaning and maintenance I would think excess lube could work against you in the long run. 3M and other companies make a "dry" silicone lube that has a volitile vehicle and after evaporating, the dry silicone ball bearings are in place to reduce friction but don't attract dirt. Without knowing the material of the O-ring or the solvents used, I am concerned about this type of dry lubrication and I am not sure it would help protect the O-ring if it is buna or nitrile which can be subject to Ozone degradation. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

There is a silicone treatment that is used on neoprene products for protecting them called Aquaseal Silicone Pump that is very viscous and would easily work into the area needed on the U2. I don't think it would be near as gummy as the heavier viscosity greases we are used to.

There was a lube called McLube that hit the sailing industry like a storm shortly before I left. They have some outstanding dry lubes that worked well and noticibly in the nasty salt water environment. Because they were dry and repelled moisture without attracting dirt and grime, they had a lot going for them! 

It seems to me that on the seals you want two things: Low friction and protection of the seal itself. You do not want any gunk that will attract and grab dirt or other abrassive particles and bind them into the program! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

It seems to me that this is an area where we could all gain from some expert advise and comments!!


----------



## turbodog (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

[ QUOTE ]
*cy said:*
with a pick, going to place a dab of gel in the groove where O-ring is and work it in. 

[/ QUOTE ]

From experience in this area..... I'd suggest heating the grease and trying it in a liquid state. I think you will have very little luck while it is solid.


----------



## wptski (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

How about these products? Tuf-Glide


----------



## cy (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

tuf-glide looks good, but surefire spec'd a silcone non-migrating lube


----------



## wptski (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

[ QUOTE ]
*cy said:*
tuf-glide looks good, but surefire spec'd a silcone non-migrating lube 

[/ QUOTE ]
cy:

It's not silicone but if it dries out, it can't migrate, right? I have this stuff with the needle-like applicator. I got mine through the mail but was told that Gander Mountain sell their products.

Your adjusting ring squeaks on your U2, it being a liquid plus the needle-like applicator might help. Or you want me to see if I can screw mine up? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif It might be going back to SF for other reasons that I can't mention in this thread! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mecry.gif


----------



## turbodog (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

[ QUOTE ]
*wptski said:*
[ QUOTE ]
*cy said:*
tuf-glide looks good, but surefire spec'd a silcone non-migrating lube 

[/ QUOTE ]
cy:

It's not silicone but if it dries out, it can't migrate, right? I have this stuff with the needle-like applicator. I got mine through the mail but was told that Gander Mountain sell their products.

Your adjusting ring squeaks on your U2, it being a liquid plus the needle-like applicator might help. Or you want me to see if I can screw mine up? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif It might be going back to SF for other reasons that I can't mention in this thread! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mecry.gif 

[/ QUOTE ]

Bigger question is: should they be squeaking while they're this new? I can understand mine (packed with silty mud), but I hazard to guess that most of these only see desk duty.


----------



## cy (Jan 6, 2005)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire seals & electrical switche*

Ok, after speaking with Surefire again. on U2's selector ring they want you to use a silicon based, non mineral, di-electric or conductive grease. 

and yes different customer service rep's tell you different things. 959G is conductive grease, so I went that. 

I took a plastic tooth pick, carefully cleaned out the small gap between plastic selector and aluminum head. 

Then I carefully smeared 959G into the crack with the toothpick the best I could. repeat for the other side. 

At first I was disapointed, the slot was so small I couldn't get any grease into the seals. the selector was hard to use as ever. 

I put the light away into my pocket. 30 minutes later after getting heated by my body. the 959G nyogel had penatrated the orings. 

the selector ring now feel butter smooth. perfect!! not too loose, not too tight. just right. I can operate selector ring one handed. 

happy ending...


----------



## 357 (Sep 10, 2005)

*NyoGel*

Got some NyoGel from LightHound.

Great service by the way, very good company to order from my opinion says.


Anyway.


My questions.

Formula 759G....should this be used only on the threads of the flashlights? 


Formula 779ZC....should this be used only on the o-rings?

Other than weight (ZC being thicker than G), what other differences exist between the formulas? Finally, how are you all using them, 759G for some parts of a flashlight and 779ZC for other parts? Which parts?


----------



## nethiker (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: NyoGel*

Hey 357,

I just ordered some Nyogel as well from Lighthound. I found them great to do business too. Very fast shipping, and he included a little keychain light in my package as a free gift. Nice touch. As far as your questions about lube, I found this thread here helpful.

Greg


----------



## KevinL (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: NyoGel*

Personally I use the 759G on threads and O-rings. No harm, no foul - in more than six months of usage my Surefires have yet to witness any ill effects. 

759G is conductive, it aids conduction but it does not cause any ill effects when applied to non-conductive surfaces. 

Kudos to lighthound.com for helping us get these. I bought a lifetime supply, the biggest tube he had. The best lights on earth deserve the best I can get them.


----------



## 357 (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: NyoGel*

Agreed, I also bought a huge supply of NyoGel. Lighthound I think is the only source for this stuff, and it is the best lube available for Surefires. I'm stocking up just in case its no longer sold again in the future.


----------



## adrenochrome (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: NyoGel*



KevinL said:


> 759G is conductive



759G is not conductive. I've personally checked it out with a digital multimeter. It has zero conductivity, as does the 779ZC.

I recently contacted Lighthound about this very issue, he verified that the 759G is absolutely non-conductive. You may ask him yourself, though, if you still have doubts.

Best regards,
adrenochrome


----------



## SilverFox (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: NyoGel*

Hello Kevin,

I am trying to get a handle on these conductive lubricants...

:devil: If you put a blob down and measure the resistance across it, what does it read? :devil:

Also, if you take ten feet of wire and measure the resistance of it, does it go down with the addition of the conductive lubricant?

I believe this question has been brought up before, but I don't remember it being answered... How does this stuff work?

I understand the concept of removing and preventing corrosion, but don't think this lubricant is "conductive" at all. :nana:

Tom


----------



## SilverFox (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: NyoGel*

Hello Adrenochrome,

You beet me to it... 

Tom


----------



## Flash_Gordon (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: NyoGel*

Silverfox & adrenochrome are correct-

Neither of these formulations is conductive. We have all been operating with bad information in this regard.

From Nye Lubricants Website: Nye Lubricants 

Nye currently offers three standard conductive greases: 

NyoGel 753G.pdf - A stiff, carbon thickened, light viscosity, polyolester grease intended for wide temperature applications where a degree of electrical conductivity in the grease is required. 
NyoGel 756G.pdf - A silica thickened, light viscosity, synthetic hydrocarbon grease intended for electrically conductive, instrument and bearing applications. 
NyoGel 758G.pdf - A stiff, lithium soap thickened, light viscosity, channeling synthetic ester grease intended for demanding bearing applications.

Volume resistivity of both Nyogel 753G and Nyogel 756G is approximately 30 ohm-cm. Volume resistivity of Nyogel 758G is approximately 300 ohm-cm. Nyogel 753G and Nyogel 756G are gels not pastes. They rely on a proprietary carbon filler, rather than traditional metallic particles, for their conductivity. Nyogel 758G is an excellent channeling bearing grease. It relies primarily on a synergistic effect among its additives, not carbon or metallic filler, to create an electron pathway through the grease.

It would seem 756G would be a better choice if we need conductivity. Does not seem that the 759 or 779 are much different except for color and viscosity, *EXCEPT*, the 779ZC is specifically recommended by Nye for wear reduction on aluminum.

BTW, I have used both the 759 & 779 on many lights with no ill effects.

Mark


----------



## jtivat (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: NyoGel*

Not sure if I can find the old thread where this was discussed at length but here is the jest of it. The 759G while not actually conductive it is one of the few lubes out there that will not cause any resistance. It will also help conductivity by protecting the metal from corrosion and oxidation. Oh it also works well on o-ring but I do like the feel of the thicker 779zc this stuff is the best lube out there IMO.


----------



## Anglepoise (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: NyoGel*



jtivat said:


> The 759G while not actually conductive it is one of the few lubes out there that will not cause any resistance..



I think this is an excellent explanation.
I have used and continue to use Nyogel 759g where ever I have metal to metal threads that are in direct contact, are stationary,and have to pass current. Galling of the two surfaces is kept under control and no build up of resistance.


----------



## 357 (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: NyoGel*



jtivat said:


> Not sure if I can find the old thread where this was discussed at length but here is the jest of it. The 759G while not actually conductive it is one of the few lubes out there that will not cause any resistance. It will also help conductivity by protecting the metal from corrosion and oxidation. Oh it also works well on o-ring but I do like the feel of the thicker 779zc this stuff is the best lube out there IMO.



So, should I just use mostly the thicker 779zc then if its the best?


----------



## jtivat (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: NyoGel*

Sorry I meant both are the best the 779zc should not be used on metal parts only o-rings or plastic. Really if you only wanted only one lube it should be the 759G. The only reason I like the 779zc on o-rings is that it is thicker and gives tails caps I nicer stiffer feel that the other.


----------



## KevinL (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: NyoGel*

I stand corrected, I must have read too much into Nye's datasheets and confused one with another. Perhaps jtivat said it best, that 759C will not introduce any additional resistance. 

We had problems early on getting hold of this lubricant because the other resellers had minimum quantities to be met. I figure that Lighthound bought that minimum quantity and is now selling it to us at the retail level :thumbsup:


----------



## Manzerick (Apr 5, 2006)

*Grease for your light*

Hey Folks,

I've read many different types of grease people use on their lights on the threads...


Does anyone know which is best for all Surefires? I have an M4, U2, E1L and also an ARC -p..


----------



## powernoodle (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Someone smarter than me (which includes almost everyone) will have to answer that, but I can say that using a non-conductive grease or oil can cause probs. I put some FP-10 gun oil on the threads of a Fenix L0P because they were a little grind-y, and it ended up interfering with the electrical pathway thru the threads/body and caused the light not to function properly. Just FYI.

peace


----------



## Sixpointone (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Hi Manzerick,

Long time no see.

In any event, Lighthound.com sells NyoGel Flashlight Lubricant which I think would be ideal.

The link for it is...
http://www.lighthound.com/sales/nyogel_flashlight_lubricant.htm

Hope that helps,
John


----------



## LuxLuthor (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Most will recommend Nyogel lubricant for threads. 

http://www.lighthound.com/sales/nyogel_flashlight_lubricant.htm


----------



## Cliffnopus (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

I know many folks have recommended, including McGizmo on his PD's, Krytox 50/50 blend. You can purchase it at :
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php?cPath=43&page=1

It's what I use and it seems to work real well.

Cliff


----------



## ACMarina (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Nyogel?


----------



## cy (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

nyogel 959 is what you want
that's what surefire uses


----------



## LuxLuthor (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Here is where I bought mine from. Two main types listed, but Nye's main website at http://www.nyelubricants.com has a ton of products.


----------



## Manzerick (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Thank You folks!!!

I'll grab some 959 for the Surefires 


Do you think the Nyogel would be ok for the ARC and other lights?


----------



## Manzerick (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Would car "dieoelectric" grease work? (please pardon the spelling)


----------



## Arkayne (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

I use this:







3M Silicone Paste (dielectric grease)
A non-melting, water resistant, 100% solids, silicone compound designed to protect surfaces from oxidation. Also used as a general purpose lubricant for brakes (metal to rubber applications); great for O rings and weatherstripping.


----------



## Lee1959 (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

I use the same silicone grease that I for other similar conditions and it works great.


----------



## prof (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

I've used plumber's gunk also.


----------



## LuxLuthor (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

There's probably a lot of things that work....but Nyogel is what Surefire uses, so you choose what you want to use. 

A $10 tube will likely be all you ever need to buy. I got a 25 gm tube of 759G (it's a clear lube), and have generously coated all threads of all connections of 15 flashlights, and it feels like I still have 3/4 or more of the tube left.


----------



## whorton5 (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Check out the Cheers and Jeers section. I just got a tube of Nye 759 from Lighthound in two days...they rock! And another nice thing...they only charge you for postage. None extra went to "handling".


----------



## Manzerick (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Awesome advice folks!

Thank You!


----------



## Morelite (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

I use Danco Perfect Match silicon grease and it works just as good as the 959


----------



## Alloy Addict (Apr 6, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

I took Peter Gransee's suggestion and bought some RadioShack Multi-Purpose Lube Gel. $1 for a 3 oz. tube that should last me for years considering how little it takes.


----------



## yaesumofo (Apr 6, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

this topic comes up all the time. the answer is .............................................

..MAGNALUBE!!
WORKS PERFECT
on threads and heads not to mention o-rings too. Nothing like it.
It will noe spread when heated, this stuff luges and protects the best. cheao to.
some time ago we had a group buy. all the stuff we went to users. 0 complaints much praise for the stuff. I use if on all of my flashlights which require a smooth action. Works great.
Yaesumofo
http://magnalube.com/


----------



## kiwitan (Apr 8, 2006)

*how to apply nyogel?*

just got myself a tube of lubricant. How do i apply it to the flashlight?

Around the o-ring and threads. Can i apply to the electrical contacts too?


----------



## carrot (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: how to apply nyogel?*

I wouldn't use it on electrical contacts... someone else might tell you to use ProGold on contacts, but I haven't tried it yet. Nyogel is not bad to get on contacts but I wouldn't intentionally put it there either. I just use a finger after washing my hands or a toothpick. When I first started using the stuff I made the mistake of applying it very liberally, but it seems you only need a thin layer of the stuff.


----------



## Lee1959 (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: how to apply nyogel?*

Will show my age now, like the old Brill Creme ads, a little dab will do ya... just spread it thinly on the threads and O rings.


----------



## firefly99 (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: how to apply nyogel?*

Dispense some of the nyogel on the Oring / thread, use a finger to spread it out evenly. 

Seem that I myself had apply too much of the nyogel, because I found some of the nyogel on the bottom of the spring and some are flowing into the battery tube. Just wipe away the extra grease with tissue paper.


----------



## Timson (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: how to apply nyogel?*

I put a line of Nyogel across the entire length of the threaded portion at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions and then srew the cap / head back on ond off a couple of times.

This distributes the lube nice and evenly on the threads and the O'ring and seems to be about the right amount....No excess to wipe away.  


Tim.


----------



## LuxLuthor (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: how to apply nyogel?*

LOL...I can't believe there is a topic asking how to apply Nyogel to flashlight threads. Someone should have also said to not apply it to your eyes.

:lolsign:


----------



## cy (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: how to apply nyogel?*

believe it or not there is actually a method for aplying nyogel 959 if you have a stiff U2 slector ring. 

take a toothpick and work nyogel 959 far as possible into space between ring and body. then simply put U2 into pants pocket for a few hours. body's heat will thin nyogel and allow grease to migrate into selector ring. 

action should go from stiff into nice and smooth.


----------



## Dawg (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: how to apply nyogel?*



LuxLuthor said:


> LOL...I can't believe there is a topic asking how to apply Nyogel to flashlight threads. Someone should have also said to not apply it to your eyes.
> 
> :lolsign:


 
:goodjob:


----------



## Pydpiper (Apr 11, 2006)

*Nyogel 779 application tips, please.*

I got my nyogel today from Lighthound, and I know I need it, I just don't know how to use it.
I wasn't home when it arrived but my wifes call went like this.. "Honey, your flashlight lubricant came today, I don't know, nor do I want to know what that stuff is for."
Anyhow, any tips on how much of this stuff to use? Until now I have been using a silicone lube from home Depot, now I am playing with the good stuff, I just want to be sure I am doing it right.  
How much, how often and where?


----------



## BlackDecker (Apr 11, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel 779 application tips, please.*

First, remove all the old lubricant completely using a cotton swab dabbed in alcohol. Allow a few minutes for the alcohol to evaporate, then apply a VERY light amount of lube to the O-Ring and threads. Remember, less is more. You need just enough to keep the o-ring from tearing and to allow the endcap to screw on easily - but not so much that the lube squeezes out when you tighten the endcap.


----------



## Pydpiper (Apr 11, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel 779 application tips, please.*

Ok, easy enough..
I love the way the Mags glide after being lubed... I may just have to upgrade a couple of them..
My Son is usually pretty partial to his 19 LED AAA light, his eyes lit right up when he got his hands on a 2C Mag...

This lube works great in respect to making the mechanical part of this hobby smoother, why it took me so long I just don't know.


----------



## whorton5 (Apr 11, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel 779 application tips, please.*

I too got the Nyogel from Lighthound...man, he's fast! How often do you all lube? I read somewhere that every 6 months was a good interval.

As a relative newcomer to the world of "high-end" lights, what kind of inspection should I perform (other than the obvious "make sure it works" one) when I get a new light? I have heard several folks say they got lights with bad or dried out O-rings...so I'll start checking those...any other obvious things to check?


----------



## firefly99 (Apr 11, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel 779 application tips, please.*

For shelf queens, once per month. Since my EDC ride in my pocket, where it attract dust or lint, I usually lube once a week.


----------



## frisco (Apr 26, 2006)

*Lets talk "Lube"*

I've only been involved in the high end flashlight scene for about 6 months now, so newbie to most of you. Although I am a newbie to flashlights, I have been using various light sources for the last twenty years in my photography business.

I have both Incan and LED flashlights and I can see a use for both. I have read and studied way more than I care to admit here on CPF!

One solid conclusion I can make at this point from using these wonderful instruments for the last six months. "Lube"

Anybody who buys these fine lights that can range from a few dollars to thousands and doesn't have a $10.00 tube of "Lube" really is clueless!

Most of these lights have machined threads and rubber or rubber like O rings. First thing I learned to do with any light that is new to me is immediately clean the threads, check and clean O rings..... apply NyoGel. Same thing goes at battery change time. Twistys need more attention with a regular clean and lube.

frisco


----------



## Russell52 (Apr 26, 2006)

*Re: Lets talk "Lube"*

I've been using high temp bearing grease,lol


Russ


----------



## OldGreyGuy (Apr 26, 2006)

*Re: Lets talk "Lube"*

In reading through many posts here (I admit I lurked for a while before joining) one of the recurrent themes I noticed was the importance of Lube. Strangely enough I actually bought a tube of NyoGel before I acquired a high end light, at least all my old Mags are sweet to operate now.


----------



## TENMMIKE (Apr 26, 2006)

*Re: Lets talk "Lube"*

dont forget krytox


----------



## Aaron1100us (Apr 26, 2006)

*Re: Lets talk "Lube"*

Yep, after reading on here and trying to learn as much as I can, I realized that maintenence is a good thing and those twisties do need to be kept clean and lubed so I bought some NyoGel and it works great.


----------



## mdocod (Apr 26, 2006)

*Re: Lets talk "Lube"*

i've been using white lithium grease on the threads.. works wonders, but smells funny.


----------



## yaesumofo (Apr 26, 2006)

*Re: Lets talk "Lube"*

This topic has been discussed many times. you would have found that out if you has dearched.

My answer is the same as allways.
I use MAGNALUBE. It is the perfect lube for high quality high power flashlights.
It is available for sale at magnalube.com
one order will last for YEARS.
Samples of various DOW lobes are available for the asking. The problem is they send such HUGE tubes thay they would last a lifeime.
Anyway the magnalube is great stuff. It works on O-Rings, it deosn't spread out when it gets hot. It stays put.
Oh by the way it is green.
Yaesumofo


----------



## nzgunnie (Apr 26, 2006)

*Re: Lets talk "Lube"*

I was wondering if Dow Corning 4 would be good? I have access to a big tube of it and was going to bring some home in a smaller container for use on my SF lights.


----------



## Sigman (Apr 26, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Merged threads...


----------



## tattoou2 (Apr 26, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*



LuxLuthor said:


> There's probably a lot of things that work....but Nyogel is what Surefire uses, so you choose what you want to use.
> 
> A $10 tube will likely be all you ever need to buy. I got a 25 gm tube of 759G (it's a clear lube), and have generously coated all threads of all connections of 15 flashlights, and it feels like I still have 3/4 or more of the tube left.



I use Nyogel also. A little really goes a long way. Good stuff!


----------



## onthebeam (May 7, 2006)

*Which Nyogel is best?*

Lighthound advertises these two below. Which one are CPFers buying most?

NyoGel® 759G is soft, silica thickened, high viscosity synthetic hydrocarbon grease that was designed for the lubrication and protection of electrical contacts. We recommend this grease for use on the threads of all aluminum-bodied flashlights. NyoGel® 759G is a relatively "thin" grease and rated for -40°C to 125°C temperature ranges. Note that NyoGel® 759G is not conductive, but it was designed for lubricating surfaces that are conductive. NyoGel® 759G lubricant for surfaces of electrical contacts - EXCELLENT for SureFire® Flashlights. This is the lubricant that is recommended for all metal-bodied flashlights, including SureFire®, Nuwai, StreamLight® and Maglight® Flashlights 

NyoGel® 779ZC is silica thickened, light viscosity, synthetic hydrocarbon grease intended for mechanical components. It contains special additives for reducing wear of aluminum surfaces. NyoGel® 779ZC is a thicker grease that has a higher level of damping and water protection than NyoGel® 759G. It is rated for temperatures from -20°C to 125°C. It works well in the connection between the o-rings and the bezel and tailcap on the flashlights. 

I have a few lights with stiff o-rings and have a Fenix L1T on order that will need to be twisted frequently for the two stages. So, I'm guessing the 779 is best??

Is the silicone lube sold at pool supplies stores similar stuff??


----------



## BBL (May 7, 2006)

*Re: Which Nyogel is best?*

I just orderd some 779. 
Wasnt sure myself, it just sounded better suited


----------



## Spacemarine (May 7, 2006)

*Re: Which Nyogel is best?*

Here's a nice thread about 759G vs 779ZC:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/92231


----------



## _zeb_ (May 15, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

I ordered NyoGel 779CZ to my SL 4AA Propoly Luxoen and it seems to be a very nice lubricant.


----------



## Jay R (May 15, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

I use Motorex motorcycle chain lube. It goes on clear and foams briefly to fill the thread. After 5 mins the thinner has evaporated and it leaves a REALLY thick lubricant on the surface. It's safe for O rings and when you put the torch back together it feels very tight but still incredibly smooth to turn. It makes any thread feel like its real 'quality'.


----------



## onthebeam (May 15, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Are more people using the Nyogel 759 or thicker 779???


----------



## Manzerick (May 15, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

nyogel worked great!



Alos got a great price from lighthound..


----------



## Spydie (Jun 15, 2006)

*Nyogel question*

A few weeks ago I purchased some Nyogel and apply a little on all my lights. I did slightly overapply some on my Dorcy Super 1-watt and shortly thereafter noticed problems with the light. I find that at times it will not activate when pressing the tailcap and that it takes tapping the light in my hands to get it operational. 

I've since rubbed out the light and battery several times and still find this same problem occuring. My question is therefore, How pervasive is Nyogel? Will there always be trace elements in the light obstructing its performance? Or is this even an issue regarding Nyogel as opposed to the light being faulty.


----------



## scott.cr (Jun 16, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel question*

I had a similar problem once when accidentally over-squeezed the tube and globbered my E2E with Nyogel during a routine maintenance operation. The light would only turn on dimly.

From then on I've been careful to only apply it to areas that don't conduct electricity, which generally means keeping it off of tailcap and tailcap switch areas.

You might have to flush your tailcap out with contact cleaner too, in case some Nyogel got inside and contaminated the contacts.


----------



## Spydie (Jun 16, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel question*

Thanks for the input. I nearly did the same thing to my B42XRGT but spent some good time cleaning it out and ultimatley getting a new battery as the Duracell that was provided has a small patch of Nyogel on its base. Glad to hear that the prob was on account of my own clumsiness as opposed to product failure.


----------



## slinco (Jun 16, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel question*

Clean everything with rubbing alchohol. put a little Nyogel on your finger and gently lube the threads and O-rings. Use this stuff sparingly, a little goes a long way.


----------



## jtivat (Jun 16, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel question*

Which Nyogel there are many? A few are conductive and others are not.


----------



## zhuntai (Jul 5, 2006)

*Nyogel... what to use where?*







That's a pic of my U2 taken with my crappy camera phone (really doesn't do it justice does it?). I was looking on the Lighthound page about Nyogel and it compares 759G against 779ZC for various purposes. My question is when/where to use each and why it's better.

A: The clicky. I feel I need to lubricate this a little better so it's not going to jam up on me again. Worried about conductivity and how the rubber of the actual button will like it. There's also the question of the actual end plate that screws into the tailcap's aluminium section. This piece is plastic so there's a set of threads there that are plastic against aluminium. Nyogel still work?

B: Threads... I'm not sure if the actual threads need the grease to be conductive because it looks like the flashlight makes contact on the very ends of the barrel as opposed to along the threads.

C: O-rings... which do they prefer? Does it matter or will either do?

D: I'm not sure what to do with the selector ring or if anything is even possible. Doesn't look like it comes off. Thoughts?

E: The bezel... as I understand it, this is sealed on with loktite and doesn't really need maintenence. I'm wondering if I decide to break the seal (in order to replace the window for example) do I need grease it up too?

It's all very confusing and I'm a little lost. At the moment, I have a tube of 759G on it's way to me and I'm wondering if that's fine to use on everything.

Can anyone clarify for me?


----------



## BBL (Jul 5, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

I was a bit confused at first, but now i use lighthounds nyogel 779 on everything. that includes tailcap- and bezel-threads and o-rings. I dont put it on conductive surfaces.

I havent tried the 759, which is supposed to be thicker. 
is there really a significant difference?


----------



## zhuntai (Jul 5, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

It just seems like a lot of the information on the page is contradictory. 

For example, 759G is supposed to be 'high viscosity' while 779ZC is 'light viscosity' yet it says that 'NyoGel® 779ZC is a thicker grease that has a higher level of damping and water protection than NyoGel® 759G' :huh2:

On top of that, about 759G: 'EXCELLENT for SureFire® Flashlights. This is the lubricant that is recommended for all metal-bodied flashlights' but 779ZC 'contains special additives for reducing wear of aluminum surfaces' :huh2:


----------



## scott.cr (Jul 5, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

759G uses mineral spirits as its base solvent, so should not be used on anything containing latex but is compatible with Buna-N ("nitrile") O-rings.

779ZC has a similar composition but is "gooier" and harder to wash off. It is non water soluble and according to Nye's web site, contains anti-wear additives for aluminum.

Neither is conductive but I haven't had any problems using them on conductive surfaces, unlike Teflon grease. One small smear of Teflon grease on flashlight threads and the thing will light very dimly, if at all. I've slathered flashlight threads with Nyogel (both 759 and 779) and have not noticed negative lighting performance.

779ZC was a little too "heavy duty" for me so I'm using 759G almost exclusively. 779 made it too difficult to clean and re-lube the lights on a regular basis. (I use mine in dusty environments and 779 made cleanup a sticky, dirty nightmare.)


----------



## Sigman (Jul 5, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

It's ALWAYS been my understanding from when Nyogel was first sold on the CPF (would have to look back in the archives) that:

*759G* is *conductive* (to be used on threads)

*779C* is *non-conductive* (to be used on o-rings)

Now I'll have to go on a "treasure hunt" for facts?


----------



## scott.cr (Jul 5, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

Sigman,

It was my understanding that 759G is conductive to electricity also, but the data sheet on Nye's web site doesn't specify one way or another. According to my DVOM it's not conductive, but when the leads touch the connection is good and noise-free. (Or, noise-reduced I should say.)

Nye does make conductive lubricants also, so one would gather that something used on a flashlight would be ... ?

I hope you'll post your findings here if they do not agree with mine.


----------



## Valpo Hawkeye (Jul 6, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

What's wrong with silicone grease? We use it all the time for o-rings of all sorts, and even cram it in wire nuts to prevent oxidation.


----------



## scott.cr (Jul 6, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*



> What's wrong with silicone grease?



C'mon dude! It's not nearly expensive enough!!!


----------



## batman (Jul 6, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

On a surefire A2 aviator you can't literally use 2 different types of lubes for the o-rings and threads and expect them not to get all smeard up together anyways. I use the Nyogel 759G for everything. If you're not sure just get some silicone lube. I know where to get some if you're willing to walk out of the store with a discreet black plastic bag.


----------



## zhuntai (Jul 6, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*



batman said:


> I know where to get some if you're willing to walk out of the store with a discreet black plastic bag.


like the eros bodyglide mentioned in another lube thread? :lolsign:

from what i can see from poking around here and on NYE, both are non-conductive but 759G does not cause any increase in resistance in practical use. 759G is good to use on everything from threads to o-rings.

779ZC... I can't find any information on whether it causes resistance. It seems to be more suited to applying to o-rings or something.

Thoughts?


----------



## HenryE (Jul 6, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

In Grainger one day I saw Krytox. $39, and no discount for the university!!! 

For the last 50 years I've used CamLube on everything, o-rings, threads, etc. It's a great silicon lube intended for ignition points and cams, and for waterproofing electrical contacts and switches, but I've used it to prelube cams and rollers, wipe cylinder bores, etc. when assembling an engine. Cost was about $2 for a tube that lasts at least... 50 years. My tube is pretty krinkly, but it's still got enough in it for the rest of my life.

Might be more than $2 now.


----------



## Tremendo (Jul 13, 2006)

*Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

I was looking for some lubricante for my twisties, and I had seen many recommendations about Nyogel. HOWEVER, there are 2 different versions of Nyogel, the thick (779ZC) and the thin (759G), and I never saw any info on the differences here. I got them at Lighthound, and 1st I got the thick, and realized the thin is what I mostly need for twisties. The thick is good for parts you don't turn often or don't want to turn too easily. The thin is best for twisty action, when you turn your light on and off or adjust the power level often. Here are some ideas of which I used and where.

Firefly3 - Thin, since I turn it a lot (it's my EDC, the thick makes it very tough to turn on one handed.)
Fenix L1P - Thin on the back (on/off is a twist, the button is high/low). On the head I used thick (I don't need to turn that).
Fenix L2T - Thin on the head, since it's the high/low twist. Thick on the back, that doesn't need to be turned.
JetBeam CR123 - Thin. It came with no lubricant, and the thin Nyogel makes it feel nice.


----------



## FredericoFreire (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

I found some Nyogel PDF data sheet:

http://www.nyelubricants.com/pdf/779zc_copy1.pdf
http://www.nyelubricants.com/pdf/759g_copy3.pdf


----------



## CM (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

I've used nothing but silicone and have had absolutely no trouble. Even on threads. So can someone enlighten me on what's the benefit to using these? The O-rings on my lights are still the original ones, even on lights that go back over 10 years (Surefire 6Z) I think that's good evidence that silicone works.


----------



## Tremendo (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

I had the same questions, even posted about it just 3 days ago, after I bought both Nyogels.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/125122


----------



## cy (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

I've spoken with Surefire tech about this topic. 

Surefire uses Nyogel 759 for U2's selector ring, due to 759 being design specifically for switch contacts. 

here's how I use 759 on U2. take a wooden toothpick and work small amount in crack between selector ring. push deep as possible, then carry U2 in pocket for several hours to bring to body temp. 

759 will wick into switch assembly when warmed up. will loosen up switch. don't put too much, you may not want switch too loose. no way to back up....

I use 759 for everything...


----------



## Coop (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*



zhuntai said:


> It just seems like a lot of the information on the page is contradictory.
> 
> For example, 759G is supposed to be 'high viscosity' while 779ZC is 'light viscosity' yet it says that 'NyoGel® 779ZC is a thicker grease that has a higher level of damping and water protection than NyoGel® 759G' :huh2:



How is that contradictory? The lower the viscosity, the thicker the substance is. So 'high viscosity' will be more liquid than 'low/light viscosity'.


----------



## will (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

I have been using 779 on everything - no problems that I am aware of.

I have some silicone grease that I use on SparkPlug wires - I always thought that was an insulator. 

for a while - I used white lithium grease on my lights - that worked also.


----------



## mudman cj (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*



MayCooper said:


> How is that contradictory? The lower the viscosity, the thicker the substance is. So 'high viscosity' will be more liquid than 'low/light viscosity'.



Substances with a higher viscosity would be considered thicker at a given shear rate. This seemingly backwards terminology of fluids gets mistaken often. Nonetheless, a contradiction does exist. 

I was also uncertain which to purchase, but just decided to use 759; and now wonder if I should have saved a few bucks and just used silicone grease instead. You should have seen the threads on my Q3 by the time I had to buy grease...some of you might have considered it a sin. Once I finally got the thing open again I learned my lesson and repented.


----------



## Ritch (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

I could only get this one. Is it usefully for flashlight threads and o-rings? 

<LI>5532 precision grease with PTFE (Teflon ®) added, safe for use on plastics











p.s.:
I have now read several threads in this forum and some lube-websites. I think, this lube is the right one. So my question is thus answered.


----------



## BBL (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*



cy said:


> I've spoken with Surefire tech about this topic.
> Surefire uses Nyogel 759 for U2's selector ring, due to 759 being design specifically for switch contacts.



The U2's selector ring has no contacts, it works magnetically. So conductivity really doesnt matter... 

Has someone noticed negative things about 759 - compared to 779?


----------



## cy (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

spoke with nyogel's engineer and if memory is correct? 
759 is not conductive, but is designed to help prevent corrosion for switch contact points. 

you can use just about any lube that doesn't attack oring on most flashlight seals. but use ONLY nyogel 759 for U2's selector ring. 

759 goes such a long ways, once you get a little supply. it works great for all contacts too.


----------



## tradderran (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

good stuff


----------



## Rudi (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

So where does Pro-Gold fit into the picture?


----------



## chmsam (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel... what to use where?*

DeoxIT Pro Gold and the other products from Caig Labs are contact cleaners and provide varing degrees of electrical contact preservation. They are not lubes. Use their products on switch contacts, bulb contacts, battery terminals, and the like.


----------



## faucon (Jul 31, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

Thanks for some good info. I also found that the thick gel is too 'sticky' for many lights. I read somewhere that the thicker gel is very good for using on 'O' rings, so that's where I use mine now. I use the thinner Nyogel on the threads of all my aluminum flashlights, and find it works extremely well.


----------



## carrot (Jul 31, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

I actually prefer more resistance on my twisties, so I use thicker lube on my my threads.


----------



## Anglepoise (Jul 31, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

Tremendo....
I have and use Nyogel 759g and I find it far too 'sticky' to be used on threads and 'O' rings that have to twist to activate.
Where it comes in real handy is on the threads and rings that separate the battery compartment.

For moving threads where the absolute smoothness is required, there is nothing to beat 100% Teflon.


----------



## AFAustin (Jul 31, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*



Anglepoise said:


> Tremendo....
> I have and use Nyogel 759g and I find it far too 'sticky' to be used on threads and 'O' rings that have to twist to activate.
> Where it comes in real handy is on the threads and rings that separate the battery compartment.
> 
> For moving threads where the absolute smoothness is required, there is nothing to beat 100% Teflon.




What type/brand teflon do you recommend and where do you buy it?

Thanks.


----------



## cy (Jul 31, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

I use 759G on everything. works great!


----------



## cd-card-biz (Jul 31, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

Has anyone used Nylogel on a Ti PD? Mine has a very stiff action which requires two hands to operate. Tried Krytox 50/50, Magnalube and the only thing that works (so far), is a wrap or two of Teflon plumber's tape.


----------



## Sigman (Jul 31, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

For your reading pleasure and I'm sure there's even more info around these halls if anyone wants to look for it. It certainly wasn't hard to find this little list. I don't need to say I'm grumpy today  - but certainly wish members would look a little bit before giving up (if at all?).

jtivat was the member selling it for the longest time and probably has more info on it if anyone needs it.


----------



## Bob_G (Jul 31, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

Funny, 759 is the only Nyogel I have and it sucks on twisties to me, but I use it on Mag heads to keep them from turning so easily when I don't want them to. 

cd-card-biz - have you posted in the McGizmo forum? What you're saying doesn't' make sense in my experience with Al PDs. It's usually the o-ring that creates the resistance, not the threads. Take out the o-ring and see if it's still so stiff. If it isn't, try a 016 o-ring on the head until it breaks in - PDs and Don's lights in general need a lot of break-in. But maybe the Ti is different ...

For anyone who doesn't know how to do a site specific search on Google, just enter your search criteria, then a space and *site:whatever.com*


----------



## cd-card-biz (Jul 31, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*



Bob_G said:


> cd-card-biz - have you posted in the McGizmo forum? What you're saying doesn't' make sense in my experience with Al PDs. It's usually the o-ring that creates the resistance, not the threads. Take out the o-ring and see if it's still so stiff. If it isn't, try a 016 o-ring on the head until it breaks in - PDs and Don's lights in general need a lot of break-in. But maybe the Ti is different ...
> 
> For anyone who doesn't know how to do a site specific search on Google, just enter your search criteria, then a space and *site:whatever.com*


 
Bob_G,

Thanks very much for the info. Man, I feel like I'm living in an alternate universe. The Ti PD "stiff" action has been a topic in McGizmo for a couple of weeks now. I now see that this ground has been well covered long before. I think you may be right about the head "O" ring being the point of resistance. I even think I have a #16 here to try. Thanks too for the tip on site specific search - learned a couple of things from your post!

Sigman - sorry to waste the bandwidth with my post and thanks for the search links. I read them and see it's all been covered before.

Thanks very much guys!

Bill


----------



## Tremendo (Aug 1, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

Deleted irrelevant info, now that threads are merged.


----------



## Sigman (Aug 1, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

Hmmm, I typed in "Nyogel" and using the "advanced search" function of all threads several popped up, most specific to your question would be these:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/124141&highlight=nyogel(Moderator edit: Deleted two links here as the threads were merged with this one.)
 
[babblemode]

Folks just need to have patience, perhaps play around with the different search options that exist? :thinking:

No stress involved...using different search parameters with different search engines will of course yield different results. I probably spend too much of my own personal time here trying to go through over 500 posts at any one time during the day or night...trying to help folks here and there...keeping these hallways cleaned up and organized. It takes everyone to try and keep things cleaned up and organized or we'll end up with a too many duplicate threads (as we have now) posted by individuals who don't know how to find the answers they seek (NO OFFENSE INTENDED & WITH ALL DUE RESPECT). 

However, in the end - we did come up with something close to an "answer" here didn't we? The questions can't always be avoided - I ask them myself at times. The helpful/polite/respectful/patient members here are what helps make the CPF the positive Forums collection that it is. 

Perhaps I'm just a little too familiar with finding some of the answers around here? Every once in awhile I'll take the time to search and merge 16 or so of those duplicate threads for the benefit of the members. Maybe I shouldn't - oh but it's a nasty job and someone's got to do it. Hmmm, over 15,000 or is it 16,000 registered members now - with only about 20 staff to maintain it? All I ask is that folks try to roam these hallways of information wisely before posting some of these questions that were answered many times before.

BTW, there's an "archive" option at the bottom of your screen as well...that will search waaaaay back too.

Now after all this verbage - (AND THOSE WHO ARE VERY FAMILIAR WITH ME AROUND HERE *KNOW* THAT I SELDOM GET TO THIS POINT!!!) I'll say it one more time as I did in my above message - YES I'M GRUMPY TODAY! :thanks:  :huh2:

[/babblemode]

BTW - I'm using Firefox and I also use "Ctrl F" to find specific words in the search results. Pretty sure this works with Internet Explorer and others as well...HELPS IN A MAJOR WAY while wading through all that rot!


----------



## Bob_G (Aug 1, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

I like to sneak this in somewhere once a year or so.

*How many forum members does it take to change a lightbulb?*

1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed

14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light
bulb could have been changed differently

7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs

1 to move it to the Lighting section

2 to argue then move it to the Electricals section

7 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light bulbs

5 to flame the spell checkers

3 to correct spelling/grammar flames

6 to argue over whether it's "lightbulb" or "light bulb" ... another 6 to
condemn those 6 as stupid

2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is "lamp"

15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that "light bulb"
is perfectly correct

19 to post that this forum is not about light bulbs and to please take this
discussion to a lightbulb forum

11 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we all use light bulbs
and therefore the posts are relevant to this forum

36 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and what brands are faulty

7 to post URL's where one can see examples of different light bulbs

4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected URL's

3 to post about links they found from the URL's that are relevant to this
group which makes light bulbs relevant to this group

13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all
headers and signatures, and add "Me too"

5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot
handle the light bulb controversy

4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short time ago?"

13 to say "do a Google search on light bulbs before posting questions about light bulbs"

1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start it all over again.


----------



## Sigman (Aug 1, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

Sooooo funny Bob - because it's too close (if not the actual!) to the truth! 

Now that we've trashed the thread...should I merge it? 

Seriously I may do that - but not now, it's 12:26 am here in the "Land of the Midnight Sun" and I need to recharge my personal batteries - sometime later today, I'll try and take on the task of merging "most" (if not all) of the Nyogel threads.


----------



## AFAustin (Aug 1, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

Rick,

I know I am as guilty as most of not doing a thorough enough search before posting an inquiry. I almost always make an effort, but I'm beginning to realize that one of the problems is that I am not up to snuff on search techniques. For instance, only very recently did I learn about doing a "URL specific" search on Google. And, to be honest, the "Ctrl F" trick was new to me altogether (this is what happens when an older guy who never even knew how to type is let loose on the internet!).

I'd like to make a suggestion, and of course the ultimate irony is that this suggestion has probably been made before and I just can't find it (although I promise I did at least do a rudimentary search). Could you, or some knowledgeable volunteer, start a sticky thread on advanced, effective search techniques for finding CPF threads, including using Google and other external search engines? I think a lot of CPFers would find it very helpful, and moderators who come upon questions addressed a zillion times in prior threads, could simply refer the poster to the sticky and ask that they do a proper search instead.

If such a sticky already does exist somewhere, I promise to promptly fall on my sword, but I also promise to use it, so please point me to it!

Thanks for all your terrific work for CPF, and for keeping us all, more or less, in line.

Best regards,

Andrew


UPDATE:

Wow, that was fast! Thanks, Rick, for the new sticky thread on search methods: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=127532

And thanks to Sasha for the new Google search box---terrific addition!

Hopefully, we'll all become better searchers, and maybe they'll be a few less repetitious threads. Who says old flashaholics can't learn new tricks!


----------



## Tremendo (Aug 1, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

Deleted irrelevant info, now that threads are merged.


----------



## Sigman (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel Thick/Thin info here*

Just merged a couple Nyogel threads for your reading pleasure. There are other threads on the subject around these halls and if anyone thinks they should be merged with this one - please PM me with the links. Thank you!


----------



## BigBaller (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

My threads are feeling a bit on the dry side, would it be safe to coat them with white lithium grease or silicon differential grease I use for my rc cars?


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

 *PSM's law of lubing the light.* ​
Use Krytox 50/50 from the shoppe on lights that cost more than $300, use Nyogel 759G from the hound on lights less than $300. Apply whenver it feel dry to turn parts. :laughing:


----------



## Long John (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

I use "White Lightning". It's for bicycle chains,steel- wires,threads, and works great. It's based on wax, no grease.
Stops water entrance and is dry after a minute, so no dust will stay at it.

Great product, made in the USA:rock:.

Best regards

_____
Tom


----------



## Brighteyez (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Years ago, before I even registered for this site, I seem to remember all sorts of admonitions against the use of petroleum jelly as a lubricant, as it might eat away at the O rings. Understanding that petroleum jelly is a petroleum by-product that can indeed damage some plastics and synthetics it seemed reasonable at the time, though I just noticed (I'm sure it's been there for years) that Mag recommends the use of petroleum jelly as a lubricant for both the threads and O-rings.


----------



## Martin (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Tetra Gun Grease works well for me.
It makes threads move smoother. Have used it for two years on my metal lights without damage to o-rings.


----------



## Bror Jace (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Someone mentioned Krytox above.

I use this stuff which I already had on hand to take care of our pool (pump & equipment ...) and the seals on my paintball equipment:

http://www.lesliespool.com/shopping...temID=8728&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=lube


----------



## Vinnie (Aug 12, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

I use Dielecetric Silicone compond, it's used for electronic systems and seals out moisture


----------



## BBL (Aug 12, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

the nyogel 759 seems to dry up far too quickly... i put it on threads and o-rings, which are dry just a few weeks later... next time i'll try the 'other' nyogel (779?)


----------



## BigBaller (Sep 2, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

Where can the 959 that SureFire uses be found?


----------



## macforsale (Sep 2, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

nzgunnie 

DC4 is what I have use for many years. First time I came across the product was in the electronic shop on the USS Fulton AS-11. Sometimes called building 11. That’s a story for another time. All electrical connectors on submarines, fast attacks in this case, we used DC4 on the o-rings. Only time we had a problem was when the o-ring was not seated in the groove at the base of the radar mast base plate. All the DC4 in the world was not going to keep the seawater out. Word from the crew was that on the first dive things got kind of exciting when seawater was coming out of the radar equipment.


----------



## Illum (Sep 2, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

NyoGel?

oh crap...

I think I destroyed my lights. I used...white lithium grease

lithium grease in lithium lights...mmm:laughing:


----------



## arty (Sep 2, 2006)

*Re: Grease for your light*

I have been using Radio Shack Multi-Purpose Lube Gel. I got it after it was suggested by members of this forum.


----------



## seery (Sep 2, 2006)

*NYOGEL 959 and 759*

I phoned Nye Lubricants Inc. (Nyogel) and asked about the 959. I was told
there is no Nyogel 959 and it is 759 that Surefire uses.

The last few Millennium lights I've recieved this month, all had factory "dark"
grease on both the bezel and tailcap threads. Knowing that 759 is a clear
lubricant, it seems SF has changed what they use.

There are lots of folks recommending the 959. Is there anyone that could post
a pic of thier Nyogel 959? If so it seems I was misinformed by the staff at
Nye Lubricants.

I've been using the Nyogel 759g for a while now and really like it. If I were
using it exclusively on "twisties" though, I'd go with the thicker stickier version.






BigBaller said:


> Where can the 959 that SureFire uses be found?


----------



## Loomy (Oct 4, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire U2 O-ring & elect switches*

So now that I need some of this, where does one acquire Nyogel 959G or an equivalent? :candle:


----------



## Eric242 (Oct 4, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire U2 O-ring & elect switches*

lighthound.com should have nyogel available.


----------



## Loomy (Oct 5, 2006)

*Re: Nyogel for Surefire U2 O-ring & elect switches*



Eric242 said:


> lighthound.com should have nyogel available.



Lighthound says that the grease they have is not conductive, but the U2 needs a conductive grease...


----------



## Glas4d (Nov 2, 2006)

Double post


----------



## Sigman (Nov 2, 2006)

Just merged "several" Nyogel threads for your reading pleasure!


----------



## Glas4d (Nov 2, 2006)

*Which Lube?*

Im needing to get some nyogel for my flashlights ( see signature) and I was looking at Lighthound and reading the threads here and I just dont know which one to get? 760 or 779? Im having a hard time understanding what the difference is between the 2 and if one will not work with certain lights I have. If one type will work better with some of my lights and and the other type for my other lights i have no problem buying both. Then there is also the krytox 50/50 blend, not sure about that one either. I just want to know what to use and on which lights


Thanks


----------



## Anglepoise (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Which Lube?*



Glas4d said:


> Im needing to get some nyogel for my flashlights ( see signature) and I was looking at Lighthound and reading the threads here and I just dont know which one to get? 760 or 779? Im having a hard time understanding what the difference is between the 2 and if one will not work with certain lights I have. If one type will work better with some of my lights and and the other type for my other lights i have no problem buying both. Then there is also the krytox 50/50 blend, not sure about that one either. I just want to know what to use and on which lights
> 
> 
> Thanks



If your threads ,with their matching 'O' rings, are stationary, (ie. no twisting to turn on and off) .....then use NyoGel 760 ( it replaced 779 ) . Although non conductive in itself, it is designed to lubricate threads that are conductive and have to pass current. Also safe on all 'O' rings.

Now if you have threads , with their matching 'O' rings and they have to screw in and out every time you turn the light on and off, 100% Teflon is the way to go and is streets ahead of any other lube for super smooth operation, no sticktion and no 'o' ring damage due to petroleum.


----------



## marxs (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Which Lube?*

i think you have to be weary when it comes to o-rings...and in particular what type of o-rings you use. not all o-rings will take petroleum based products easily. stick to buna-n if your not sure whether youll be using petroleum based chemicals. its the most common, cheap, and quite versatile o-ring around (commonly black, not sure in other countries). i know silicone -o-rings are a bit fragile to certain products.


----------



## chesterqw (Nov 2, 2006)

Ok... where can i get this teflon thing online and shipped to Singapore for cheap?

not really buying it but hey, someday i may buy it


----------



## tsl (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Which Lube?*



Glas4d said:


> Im needing to get some nyogel for my flashlights ( see signature) and I was looking at Lighthound and reading the threads here and I just dont know which one to get? 760 or 779? Im having a hard time understanding what the difference is between the 2 and if one will not work with certain lights I have. If one type will work better with some of my lights and and the other type for my other lights i have no problem buying both. Then there is also the krytox 50/50 blend, not sure about that one either. I just want to know what to use and on which lights


 
If you do a search on nyogel, you should be able to pull up some information. Here's a lengthy thread:

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=139620

I recently bought the 760 (replacement for 759 according to Lighthound), and I have used it on the o-rings and threads of both my SF L2 and A2. These lights twist for constant on, and they work fine. I think either Carrott or GreenLED posted about preferring the heavier 779 because it made the twisting action more substantial, but that would be just preference.

Folks here are right ... the Nyogel is great! I'd initially used Radio Shack Lube Gel on the L2 I bought from a CPF member, but the threads were getting black stuff in them. When I received the A2 new, the threads were so shiny and clean from SF---and the lube threads were popping up, so I read up. After the RS Lube Gel (which has teflon but also some petroleum content), I tried Aquaseal pure silicon grease from a local dive shop, but that also left the threads a dirty mess after a week or so of limited use. So, I ordered the Nyogel, gave the threads a good cleaning, and the threads have kept much cleaner than the other lubes.


----------



## Glas4d (Nov 3, 2006)

so from what i have understood. both 760 and 779 are esentially the same except one is a bit thicker and there for may make it a little hard to screw and unscrew stuff? I thought i read somewhere that i am supposed to use the 779 on my Propoly 4AA luxeon, but for the rest of my lights, 760 should work just fine?


----------



## Glas4d (Nov 15, 2006)

I received my Nyogel 760G and 779ZC. I am very pleased with both. I also received my 12 UV led light from the led shoppe the same day. After playing with all my newly lubed lights and the UV light ( An $8 light doesn’t deserve lube) I noticed that all the lights I used the 760G on had an odd blue green glow coming from the bottom of the threads ( I must have used a bit to much) so it turns out that Nyogel 760G is florescent. Sadly 779Zc is not. Thought you all should know.


----------



## Glas4d (Nov 15, 2006)

I received my Nyogel 760G and 779ZC. I am very pleased with both. I also received my 12 UV led light from the led shoppe the same day. After playing with all my newly lubed lights and the UV light ( An $8 light doesn’t deserve lube) I noticed that all the lights I used the 760G on had an odd blue green glow coming from the bottom of the threads ( I must have used a bit to much) so it turns out that Nyogel 760G is florescent. Sadly 779Zc is not. Thought you all should know. 






Thanks


----------



## InfidelCastro (Dec 24, 2006)

Glas4d said:


> I received my Nyogel 760G and 779ZC. I am very pleased with both. I also received my 12 UV led light from the led shoppe the same day. After playing with all my newly lubed lights and the UV light ( An $8 light doesn’t deserve lube) I noticed that all the lights I used the 760G on had an odd blue green glow coming from the bottom of the threads ( I must have used a bit to much) so it turns out that Nyogel 760G is florescent. Sadly 779Zc is not. Thought you all should know.
> 
> 
> 
> ...






Good to know.


----------



## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 21, 2007)

I am looking to buy lube (or lubes) for the following lights. I am hoping that maybe 1 kind of lube would work for all of these lights because they are all aluminum. Is that possible? I've read that Nyogel 760G works really well, is that what I should get? Any advice is needed. Thanks 

Jetbeam C-LE
Fenix EO
Fenix L1DCE
Lumapower D Mini 
Maglight 2C 
Magcharger 

I also have two plastic lights (Streamlight 4AA Luxeon and Princeton Tec 40). Since they are a different material would they use different lube? If so please recomend me a kind of lube that would work well with them.


----------



## coppertrail (Feb 21, 2007)

I use Vaseline on my Mag Lights, and Nyogel 760G on the remainder of my lights, plastic and aluminum. Nyogel is safe to use with plastic.


----------



## ynggrsshppr (Feb 21, 2007)

I'm using Vaseline on all my flashlights, Mag 2D, Streamlight PP, Fenix, Surefire, and a Fenix clone. They all use O-rings that have no problems with the stuff.


----------



## Manzerick (Feb 21, 2007)

I use Nyogel 759 on everything..mags included..

Any downside? (other then they just recommend it)



coppertrail said:


> I use Vaseline on my Mag Lights, and Nyogel 760G on the remainder of my lights, plastic and aluminum. Nyogel is safe to use with plastic.


----------



## tino_ale (Feb 23, 2007)

*Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

Hi guys,

Titles says it all. I wonder which lubrificant works best for Mags lights. I could use the Krytox 50/50 I have from the Shoppe, but on large flashlights this thing start to be expensive :huh: 

I also have Nyogel 759 and 779 but I'm not so happy with it. I find it way too dry, not fluid enough, and the flashlight action is not so smooth. And it's a real pita to remove.

Ideas?


----------



## Brighteyez (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

The manufacturer recommends petroleum jelly.


----------



## 65535 (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

760 might be good for you, or pertroleum jelly like vasiline is also good, most cheap silicone based gel lubricants are great too.


----------



## cratz2 (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

I use a gun oil called FP10. I've also used Mobil1 motor oil. I basically apply enough to coat the O-ring and the matching threads, screw it together and wipe off any external oil, then take the light back apart and wipe down the flat (non-thread, non-O-ring) areas.


----------



## tino_ale (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

I've never thought about motor oil!
That may be a good idea... I'd like something smooth, easy to apply but not too crazy to remove.


----------



## Long John (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

"White Lightning" :thumbsup:

Best regards

____
Tom


----------



## cratz2 (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

Yup... I've never seen any adverse effects on the O-rings themselves and I always use either FP-10 or Mobil1 on my mods. I've probably had 5 or so people specifically email me back to ask what I used because everything turns so smoothly.

My only concern would be with both products being relatively lightweight, water entry might be more of an issue than with a heavier weight product such as Nyogel. I use 759 on my HDS or whatever might be in my pocket and FP-10 or Mobil1 on anything else.


----------



## bwaites (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

Petroleum products can break down some types of o-rings. 

This has been discussed here MANY times and the consensus is that a high quality silicone lubricant should be used.

Nyogel is also approved.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/143916&highlight=oring+lube

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/100879&highlight=oring+lube

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/119937&highlight=oring+lube

Here are 3 threads that talk about it!

Bill


----------



## asdalton (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

I have never had problems with petroleum-based grease dissolving any o-rings, but this type of grease does cause some kinds of o-rings to swell and bind. I had bad experiences with the Radio Shack grease (which contains petroleum) on McGizmo lights, Tektite/Trek lights, and plastic-bodied lights in general.

On the other hand, the Radio Shack grease has worked very well for me on o-rings that have looser tolerances, such as Mag o-rings.


----------



## cratz2 (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

Discounting conductivity issues, I literally have used Mobil1 and FP10 on the first Mag 2D I ever had which I think was a gift in 1992 or 1993. All the O-rings are still in place.

I really think the biggest issue is with it being lightweight, it wouldn't protect from water as well as a grease type lube.


----------



## Rforce1 (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

Just a thought.... The motorcycle industry recommends/uses *light lithium-based grease* on parts like brake levers & pedals, etc. This might be an option to try, since most motorcycles tend to experience worse conditions than flashlights do. (...although, some of you out there probably put your flashlight/s through worse conditions). You can get a can the size of a WD-40 can for around $8-12, and it'll probably last you for years!


----------



## cfromc (Feb 24, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

I just lubed my 10+ year old Mag the first time this year. It still has the original o-rings. From now on, I will lube lights whenever I see the o-rings due to battery or lamp/bulb changes, but a lack of lube hasn't been a problem for me yet. I am in the automotive business and also into knives and I have literally dozens of oils, lithium grease, silicon, etc. If the lube is OK for rubber it is probably fine. A thinner lube will likely be easier to coat the entire o-ring.


----------



## Burgess (Feb 24, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

To *asdalton* --

That explains why the Radio Shack grease
which i applied to my ABS plastic Pelican SuperSabre Light
(both the threads and the O-ring)
became almost immediately

IMPOSSIBLE to turn on & off one-handed !

Gotta' grasp the thing securely in Both Hands, and *struggle* to turn the head now.







Guess the Radio Shack lube isn't quite the easy-solution i was seeking.


Thank you for your post.


----------



## TORCH_BOY (Feb 24, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

I've always used vaseline on my MAGS and Fenix Lights


----------



## GeorgePaul (Feb 24, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*



cfromc said:


> I just lubed my 10+ year old Mag the first time this year.


It's much easier to turn the head of a Maglite when it's properly lubed. It's also easier to turn the tailcap if it's lubed. It's really a good idea to lubricate these things.


----------



## carbine15 (Feb 24, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

Lubrificants are Magnificant.


----------



## chmsam (Feb 24, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

Remember to clean first and then lube. There are tons of searchable threads here on cleaning and lubing both o-rings and the threads on flashlights.


----------



## will (Feb 24, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

The basic problem with the lubes and the O rings has to do wtih the material the O ring is made from - some are rubber based, some are silicone based. Petroleom based lubes will swell up a rubber O ring. Any lube safe for rubber will work equally well for silicone, BUT, not all lubes for silicone will work for rubber. 

I have been using Nyogel and I am very pleased with it.


----------



## chmsam (Feb 24, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

Actually there are also some o-rings that petroleum based lubes will destroy. Best to know what type of o-ring you have and what lube to use. Do a search on this forum for lots more info and you shoud be able to find all the answers. If you are unsure of what is in the lube you have, do a web search for the lube's MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet).


----------



## Strauss (Feb 24, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

I just got some Nyogel and am excited to try it out...I have been wanting it for quite some time. This tube should last me forever!


----------



## asdalton (Feb 24, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*



Burgess said:


> That explains why the Radio Shack grease
> which i applied to my ABS plastic Pelican SuperSabre Light
> (both the threads and the O-ring)
> became almost immediately
> ...



After some experimenting, I found that it is necessary to clean all of the old (bad) grease off the o-ring and metal/plastic surfaces before applying the new grease. 

Remove the o-ring, wipe off any grease on the o-ring and both surfaces, and then clean the surfaces using a grease-removing household spray cleaner such as 409. After everything is thoroughly dry, apply a coating of silicone grease to the entire surface of the o-ring and reinstall it.


----------



## thorin693 (Feb 25, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

Try Militec-1 Grease works great on lights,guns and knives
militec-1dotcom


----------



## Buck91 (Feb 26, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

Well, since this is the reason I joined, I'll butt my head in real quick. I've been using Hoppes lubricating oil for maybe 5 years now on my mag lites with nothing but great results. I don't know what this stuff is made of, but I have yet to have an issue with water entry, o-ring degration or lack of lubrication. I was thinking of switching to a dielectric silicone grease, but then again why fix what aint broke??


----------



## LightInDarkness (Feb 27, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*



Brighteyez said:


> The manufacturer recommends petroleum jelly.


 
" Vasaline Petroleum Jelly.....The first aid kit in a jar"


----------



## Derek Dean (Feb 27, 2007)

*Re: Best lubrificant to use with Mags?*

Hey, welcome to the forum Buck91. Good luck hanging on to your paycheck around here.


----------



## sunglob (Mar 28, 2007)

*Lubricating threads/O-rings*

It's not really just applicable to LED flashlights, but since all my recent acquisitions are LEDs with O-rings I'll ask here. Hope this is OK. 

All the recent recommendations appear to suggest silicone oil, or some silicone-based formulation. Is there any problem with using Vaseline petroleum jelly, as I used to use with my Arcs? I know this is OK for the threads, but can it harm the O-rings? And is silicone better?

Having acquired a selection of Fenix products I want to prolong the life of the O-rings, and it is claimed they eat O-rings.


----------



## Streamer (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

IMO Petroleum jelly is not your "best" bet. It will eat rubber eventually. Go to your nearest hardware supply and get some plumbers grease (in the plumbing dept) and never look back.


----------



## sunglob (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

I'll try that. Thanks. So will this not affect the rubber?


----------



## Barbarin (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

Silicone grease. If you are going to use under pressure your light (water, not feelings!!!) also an antiseize compound. Or more easily just paint the thread with a graphite pencil.


----------



## Streamer (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

Plumbers grease contains *silicone* and not petroleum products to eat o rings. This is some of the best grease for o rings and VERY affordable. All plumbing products contain o rings....no brainer.. Plumbers grease.. one of the best kept secrets around.


----------



## Sarratt (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

I struggled with the lube question too. 

I ended up just getting some thick paste Silicone lubricant. My thinking was ''do no harm" first.

Just to add to the confusion ... I'm getting my bicycle ready for spring (hurry hurry) and the lube thats best for cycles is something with Teflon in it.

So confused.


----------



## barazona (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

I found this on the internet that works quite well!

*Midwayautosupply.com*


----------



## Steve L (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

Originally Posted by Sarratt


> Just to add to the confusion ... I'm getting my bicycle ready for spring (hurry hurry) and the lube thats best for cycles is something with Teflon in it.


 I went for my first ride of the season yesterday(Michigan). For the chain I use White Lighting, a wax based product. It sheds the dirt and you don't get the greasy marks on your leg.


----------



## roverjohn (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

Any store that sells parts for commertial food service equipment will also have silicon grease. It's inert enough to be IN food so your orings are safe. Something like canola oil would be perfectly safe also. Just remember that less is generally more when it comes to lubes.


----------



## Gator762 (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*



Barbarin said:


> Silicone grease. If you are going to use under pressure your light (water, not feelings!!!) also an antiseize compound. Or more easily just paint the thread with a graphite pencil.



I may be mistaken, but be wary of using graphite. I think it eats up aluminum.

Silicone plumber's grease works well though.


----------



## orbital (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

Keep it simple,... just get some Silicone Grease and use a tiny amount.

Many threads on this,
Silicone is dielectric, will lube your threads, & best protect your o-rings.


----------



## Nic (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

As far as I am aware petroleum jelly is perfectly safe to use on rubber and does not cause it to deteriorate. Other petroleum based products, such as mineral oils, can damage rubber. I use petroleum jelly to lube all my o-rings as it is both safe for rubber, and kind to your skin. It is recommended by o-ring manufacturers. Silicon grease is also good.


----------



## DM51 (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*



Nic said:


> As far as I am aware petroleum jelly is perfectly safe to use on rubber and does not cause it to deteriorate. Other petroleum based products, such as mineral oils, can damage rubber. I use petroleum jelly to lube all my o-rings as it is both safe for rubber, and kind to your skin. It is recommended by o-ring manufacturers.


*WRONG*. Do not give advice unless you know what you are talking about*.*


----------



## Nic (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*



DM51 said:


> *WRONG*. Do not give advice unless you know what you are talking about*.*


How about providing a link to some info that says otherwise? ... We are talking about silicon rubber o-rings here, not condoms ...


----------



## DM51 (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*



Nic said:


> How about providing a link to some info that says otherwise? ... We are talking about silicon rubber o-rings here, not condoms ...


No, how about you use the search function? Hardly a week goes by without someone starting a new thread with exactly this same question without having done a search for it first, and there's always someone ready to ignore the correct advice (which is to use silicon grease) and offer lousy advice like you have done here.


----------



## Nic (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*



DM51 said:


> No, how about you use the search function? Hardly a week goes by without someone starting a new thread with exactly this same question without having done a search for it first, and there's always someone ready to ignore the correct advice (which is to use silicon grease) and offer lousy advice like you have done here.


I did a search and couldn't find anything that would indicate petroleum jelly as being bad for o-rings. All I can find is unproven opinion like yours ... it may harm some rubbers, but not all ... many manufacturers do recommend using petoleum jelly as a lube ... why would they give bad advice? Silicon lubricant is definitely a safer bet, I agree, but that doesn't mean petroleum jelly is bad in all cases ... particularly when recommended by the manufacturer. Maybe they are wrong, or don't consider long term effects? Better to be safe than sorry ... silicone grease it is then ...


----------



## parnass (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

To see an interesting O-ring compatability guide, click here.


----------



## orbital (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

We are talking about flashlights, yes?

The common/standard o-rings on flashlights are made of rubber.

For all potential future threads: USE SILICONE GREASE


----------



## Oddjob (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

I use Krytox 50/50 on my lights. I have also read some positive reviews on Nyogel and Magnalube. I have also used silicone grease and lithium grease in the past (lithium grease smells though).


----------



## JML (Mar 29, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

Keep the vaseline far, far away from your lights and anything else but your body (and some would tell you to keep it away from there). Vaseline is as bad for rubber O-rings as it is for latex rubber condoms.

It's a petroleum product. You've been lucky it hasn't (1) dissolved your O-rings, because you probably lucked out with O-rings made from resistant artificial elastomers, (2) thinned out in heat, seeped out, and migrated all over your stuff, (3) gotten on your batteries and made them leak, (4) eaten up plastic parts, and (5) stained clothing.

There are threads on this almost every week, going back years.

Silicone grease, plumber's grease, Nyogel, Superlube, all work well. Common to all is NO PETROLEUM OILS -- they have synthetic bases. Use something that won't dissolve rubber or plastic, won't migrate in heat, won't freeze in cold, and won't go rancid or dry up.

Nyogel is specifically made by a top manufacturer of synthetic greases and lubes for smoothing the action on threaded parts made from aluminum, and preserving O-rings. These are the guys who make lubes for microscopes, cameras, spaceships, and airplanes. One tube ought to last even the most profligate flashohoholic for years. The other greases are all-purpose.


----------



## CLHC (Mar 29, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

In reading the SureFire Operator's Manual it states:



UM_A2 said:


> *Note:* DO NOT use petroleum-based lubricant on SureFire O-rings.



This possibly applies equally well with other flashlights that have these rubber O-rings? :thinking:


----------



## elgarak (Mar 29, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*



parnass said:


> To see an interesting O-ring compatability guide, click here.


Especially, compare petroleum based grease with Silicone grease. Considering that the material of the O-rings is usually unknown, Silicone grease is the safest bet. Only material not working with Silicone grease are silicone O-rings, but they are not used anyway for other reasons (poor physical strength and poor abrasion resistance).


----------



## Nic (Mar 29, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*

This needs to be a sticky ...


----------



## sunglob (Mar 29, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*



JML said:


> Nyogel is specifically made by a top manufacturer of synthetic greases and lubes for smoothing the action on threaded parts made from aluminum, and preserving O-rings.



Unfortunately, in England Nyogel is an eye gel containing a beta-blocker. Maybe if it works on eyes it will be good for my flashlights? 

Looks like I'll have to settle for plumbers grease!


----------



## DM51 (Mar 29, 2007)

Sunglob - You can get O-ring silicone grease from any dive shop or from this UK website:
http://www.simplyscuba.com/ProductDetails.aspx?StockID=4216
A small tube will last you a very long time.


----------



## sunglob (Mar 29, 2007)

Thanks very much for the link. Before I read this I managed to obtain a silicone grease from my local plumbers merchants made by Dow Corning. It's a valve lubricating and sealing grease. It is described as "ideal for lubricating rubber and plastic o-rings." So I think this should be OK, and won't do any harm to the aluminium threads, either. Time to ditch the vaseline!


----------



## FiftyCalAl (Mar 29, 2007)

*Re: Lubricating threads/O-rings*



Nic said:


> As far as I am aware petroleum jelly is perfectly safe to use on rubber and does not cause it to deteriorate. Other petroleum based products, such as mineral oils, can damage rubber. I use petroleum jelly to lube all my o-rings as it is both safe for rubber, and kind to your skin. It is recommended by o-ring manufacturers. Silicon grease is also good.


 
Never had that sex education class lecture about condoms and Vaseline, huh?


----------



## Batang Regla (Oct 23, 2010)

In my country im not sure if we have nyogel. But we have ace hardware here. Any alternative?

I have ky jelly here. Can i use this?


----------



## DM51 (Oct 23, 2010)

*CLOSED* :green:


----------

