# BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part IX)



## bessiebenny

*UPDATED MAY 23rd 2009*
- I now own a Canon 100mm F2.8 Macro USM lense!
- So I'll be doing more closeup photos of each flashlight.
- Added 4 photos to the *AKOray K-103* review.
- Added 4 photos to the *AKOray K-106* review.

*UPDATED MAY 15th 2009*
- *New Review* - *AKOray K-103 AAA CREE Q5 1-Mode* light.
- It's good. AKOray is definitely making a name for themselves.
- Added new photos for MTE SSC P7 and KD Long Throw 2-mode.

*UPDATED APRIL 25th 2009*

- Just received the MTE SF-22 SSC P7-D-SXO 5-Mode. 
- I've reviewed it HERE. Driver died after a full runtime test. =(
- I knew I shouldn't have risked it. Oh well, time to mod. =P


----------------------------


*[Budget LED DX/KD Flashlights Review Roundup]*


Part 1 , Part 2 , Part 3 , Part 4 , Part 5 , Part 6 , Part 7 , Part 8 and now *Part 9*! (WOW)
FYI - This main initial post carries over. (Except Part 4 that includes many of old reviews)
But I will try and make sure you don't need to go back as much as possible.

*[BESSIEBENNY REVIEWS] *

fyi - If it doesn't say "*New* Lightbox", it is the OLD lightbox which is different.

[05 15 2009] *★★★★★*★- AKOray K-103 AAA CREE Q5 1-Mode
[04 25 2009] *★★★★*★★ - MTE SF-22 SSC P7-D-SXO 5-Mode
[03 28 2009] *★★★★★★*- Akoray K-106 3-mode Q5 AA/14500 (Best bang for buck AA flashlight)
[03 15 2009] *★★★★*★★ - Kaidomain 2-Mode HAIII Long Throw Q5
[02 22 2009] *★★★★★*★- planet bike blaze 1W w\ superflash 
[02 18 2009] *★★★*★★★ - TANK007 TK-702 P4
[12 17 2008] *★★★★★*★- KD Buckle V5 HAIII XRT 
[12 10 2008] *★★★★★*★- MTE C2-1 Q5 AA
[11 16 2008] *★★★★★*★- Romisen RC-T6
[08 24 2008] ★★★★★★ - Quick 6 flashlights Impressions
[08 10 2008] *★★*★★★★ - Romisen RC-A8
[06 21 2008] *★★★★★*★- Romisen RC-A3
[06 06 2008] *★★★★★*★- Romisen RC-F4 Q5 Shiningbeam
[05 01 2008] *★★★★★★ *- Romisen RC-I3 
[04 16 2008] *★★★★★*★- Romisen RC-G2 Q5 Shiningbeam
[03 27 2008] *★★★★★★ *- Romisen RC-N3 

*Older Reviews *- Check here and here for now. 


*[REVIEWS POSTED BY OTHER MEMBERS IN THIS THREAD]*

[May 20 2009] Ultrafire A20 Q5 Cree 5-mode RCR by old4570
[May 02 2009] Romisen RC-N3 v SmallSun ZY-C61 by Luau
[Apr 15 2009] *RCR123A Battery Test Roundup* by old4570
[Apr 04 2009] Ultrafire 503B & Trustfire TR-C2 Pics and 503B REVIEW by kramer5150
[Mar 29 2009] Ultrafire WF-502B / 501B by old4570
[Mar 28 2009] AKOray K-106 beam shot comparison by vali
[Mar 18 2009] 2 x 3W Cheap AA Flashlights by nuron
[Mar 13 2009] Ultrafire 602C vs KD Cree Q3 by old4570
[Mar 09 2009] Akoray K-102 / Romisen RC-H3 / MTE C2-1 by copperfox
[Mar 04 2009] SacredFire NF-011 Cree P4-WC by Phill
[Feb 18 2009] Akoray K-102 by Hrvoje
[Feb 18 2009] Romisen RC-A3 by seaside
[Feb 18 2009] Kaidomain 2-Mode HAIII Long Throw R2 (sku:S004798) by skyva 
[Feb 17 2009] Romisen RC-G2 (non-Q5) Review by rockz4532 
[Feb 12 2009] Romisen RC-N3 & Akoray K-102 by vali

- PM me if I missed yours. Some I didn't include as I wasn't sure what light was reviewed or was just a bit too short etc.
- If your review is in the closed thread but you want to update/modify it, just copy your review into this new thread as a new post then PM me.


---------------------------- 

*



PLEASE SEE PART 4 FOR ALL THE REVIEWS THAT ARE NOT LISTED ABOVE. EXCEPT LOW RATED ONES WHICH ARE HERE INSTEAD. 

Click to expand...

* 

*[RESULTS AT A GLANCE]*

*Star Rating*
*★★★★★★ - Buy it now! Amazing bang for the buck!*
*★★★★★ - It is excellent. A great buy! Won't regret it.*
*★★★★ - Pretty darn good. It's not the best but not bad either.*
*★★★ - It's 'ok' but there's nothing that great about it imo.*
*★★ - Not good. Avoid if if you can coz it's not worth it.*
*★ - Why am I even reviewing this?! Total waste of $$$.*

*Chart Download Links*
High* - http://sharebee.com/67ec17d1 *(Uploaded April 5th 2009)
Low* - http://sharebee.com/94696242 *(Uploaded April 5th 2009)

*[HIGH PERFORMANCE / HIGH RATED LIGHTS]* - *- Link to reviews prior to Romisen RC-T6 are **HERE*







*[LOW RATED, LOW PERFORMANCE or DISCONTINUED]* - *Link to reviews for below lights **HERE*





*NOTE:* Output values are for the near absolute peak while batteries are fully charged at its highest voltage.
Always check the runtime graph if available as you cannot expect all light to maintain such values for very long.


*[FLASHLIGHTS]* _- Not all flashlights reviewed may yet be shown below. (very outdated now)_


 

 

 


 

 


Submitted by MetalZone

_*[FYI]* _

_- GITD silicone tailcap I mention throughout are all __DX sku 5714__ unless stated otherwise. (Orange ones are not GITD but are same size)_
_- Measurements are using my own DMM and Light Meter in near-identical controlled conditions. (Still assume around plus or minus 10% error)_
_Throw_ = Firing the center of the hotspot directly at the sensor from 1m away using fully charged batteries. (Close to initial peak)
_Lightbox_ = My own cardboard box where I fire light in through a hole and measure the lux reading inside after 1 minute. (no direct light to the sensor)

_*[Output Photos]*_
1. Wall Shot - Taken in a near pitch dark room with lights firing at a white wall from around 40cm away. (F5.0 1/60sec ISO 400)
2. Kitchen - Taken in a near pitch dark room with lights firing at the back corner of my kitchen from around 7m away. (F2.8 1/25 ISO 800)

*[Runtime Graphs]*
Light is shone on to the light meter's sensor from about 1 inch away.
There is a small camera lense in between to collect most of the light.
Current output of the light sensor is measured by my datalogging DMM.
Current output is close to the overal amount of light and not just throw.
So it is relatively comparable with graphs of other lights in my review.
But do take into account that my graphs may have up to 10% of error.

Just an FYI - Any reading of 0.005mA or higher is still quite useable.
It's enough to find a key hole or see stuff in very dark environments.

*[Batteries]*

Some tips/recommendations for some battery types.

RCR123A
Check out Raymond's RCR123A battery test thread.
Also *RCR123A Battery Test Roundup* by old4570.

AA/AAA
If you use the lights very often and recharge often, get high capacity ones.
It should at least cost you about ~$5 for 2 AA or AAA if it's a decent battery.
LSD (Low-Self-Discharge) or 'Ready' batteries are better if you intend it as an emergency light. (Recyko, Eneloop etc)
Coz it holds around 80% of its charge even after not using it for a whole year.
Use a smart charger whenever possible also for best rssults.

*[Glossary]*
*OP Reflector* = Orange Peel reflector. Also called a rough / textured reflector. It helps in smoothing out the beam so there's less of ugly rings or black holes / artifacts. But it results in less throw output.
*EDC* = Every Day Carry light. For most people, it means it fits in their desired jeans/jacket/bag pocket and it's their most often used light. For me, it's a small enough light which fits in my jeans pocket. =)
*Forward clicky* - It's a switch which turns on the light when half-pressed while the light is off. So you can simply tap the switch to light it up without needing to press it fully and turn it on permanently. Good for manual flashing signals and quick usage. It's also called a positive clicky. 
*Reverse clicky* - It's the opposite of above. Generally what everyone would think a normal switch would do. You need to full depress the switch to turn on the light permanently. While on, you can do half presses to turn the light off.
*Throw* - The ability to throw the center hotspot a long way. The intensity or the brightness of the center hotspot determines how far it can light up things. Usually, higher the throw value means smaller the hotspot or a less bright spill. So it may not be as useful for short distances. Flashlights that use smooth reflecters generally have more throw than ones with OP reflector.


*[help~!] [help~!] [help~!]*
I am constantly running short on funds to buy and review more recent lights. :mecry:
Feel free to send me *$2* or *$4* or *$8* donations so that I can keep adding new lights. :devil:
(fyi - Paypal takes away ~40 cents per donation which sorta sux.)

All new lights from FEB 2008 will be bought with the addition of your donations. (if any ) 
I thank you for all for the amazing support so far. It helps greatly to keep this thread alive!

You may instead opt to use my referral id at DX. It doesn't cost you anything which is the best part. =)
To use my id, just add ~r.29749062 directly to the end of any product url address. (without "" of course)
Every ~$1300 spent using my referral id, I get $10. Not a lot but better than nothing I guess. =P

*Donations received:*
bensonm < APRIL '09 tommy_tiger66, old4570 < MARCH '09 dp62 < FEBRUARY '09 AndreD, lenny, waddup < NOVEMBER '08 JEFFSR < OCTOBER holeymoley < SEPTEMBER FlemingWak < AUGUST gunnut, PhantomLights, tmlwyb, Dandan, Crescendopower < JULY RafS, ScottM, SteveZ, Rizky ,WarriorZ, kostas, yekimak, JoeBob, smootik, RepoUK < JUNE stinky, Wolf359, alohaluau, johnnyngo, OCDGearhead, Wagen < MAY Wolf359, Centropolis, amdaxiom, t3h, Deks, SPRocketman, Flash25296, Fabio, tip61 < APRIL Wolf359, dudu84, marcus, Pokerstud, wmissen, RecycledElectron, qtaco, fizzy, briiansd, meuge, SportyBen, Raymond < MARCH Schierle, HenryL, Andres(ocau), baconheist, Dougmeister, linterno, anarchocap, saedwards, docian37, violatorjf, MikeSalt, Debbie, Luke, dulridge, martinSE, mmbeller191, ReGet, Mascione, Probedude < FEBRUARY '08

*I would like to sincerly thank everyone who supported this thread and my reviews. (donation or not)*
*P.S. Every dollar is put forward to purchasing more lights/equipment for this thread and nothing else!*


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## Deathyak

*n00b question: Ultrafire C3 6 mode?*

So I searched and I haven't found anything on this one. DX has them for $21 *[link removed - DM51] *and I was wondering how it is. I currently have a AA maglite which I stole from my dad, and I think I should probably give back.  My budget is ~$20 and I want something that is really bright. 

I would like high as the first mode/single and AA/AAA. Is this one good?

Thanks in advance!


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## STi

*Re: n00b question: Ultrafire C3 6 mode?*

For the money you can get something brighter.

Akoray Cree Q5-WC 6-Mode Memory 200-Lumen...KD has the newer 3 mode programmable like the pdc below
*[link removed - DM51] * 

*PDC AK-16 CREE Q5 3-Mode Flashlight *
*[link removed - DM51] *

MTE C2-70102 Cree Q5 8-Mode LED Flashlight 
*[link removed - DM51] * 

Want something fast?
*Romisen RC-H3 Cree Q5 LED Flashlight *
*[link removed - DM51] *

larger but still cool
*Romisen RC-N3 II Cree Q5 2-Mode LED Flashlight *
*[link removed - DM51] *


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## Oddjob

*Re: n00b question: Ultrafire C3 6 mode?*

Welcome to CPF! FYI, next time just edit your original thread instead of starting a new one if you want to add information. It keeps things more organized and the moderators won't have to close your original thread. Good luck finding what you are looking for.


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## Gunner12

*Re: n00b question: Ultrafire C3 6 mode?*

From what I read, The Ultrafire C2 doesn't like drops. Some have killed theirs with a single drop of a few feet onto carpet.

A bit more info would help with finding the right light.

How much throw?
How much output?
How much runtime?
Multimode?(low, high, strobe, etc.)
Size?

:welcome:


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## Zatoichi

*Re: n00b question: Ultrafire C3 6 mode?*

I'd lean toward the popular Romisen models, preferably from Shiningbeam with Q5's. They're only a few more dollars. The two I have are the RC-N3 and RC-G2, both are impressive for the money.


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## Deathyak

*Re: n00b question: Ultrafire C3 6 mode?*

Sorry about the double post,

PDC looks overly complex, MTE & Romisens look good. 

I'm mainly looking for something really bright that doesn't break/overheat and melt. Modes are great as long as memory/high is first. Size? 1xAA i think. Probably end up putting this in the pocket of the polar fleece I wear every day. Things with extension tubes are good too.

Thanks


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## Bullzeyebill

*Re: Looking for a Chunky p60 Host .*

Not sure if those two DE lights have integral LEDs or drop ins. Maybe not suitable for a regular drop in?

Bill


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## old4570

*Re: Looking for a Chunky p60 Host .*

Yeah , all my R2's are aluminum foil wrapped now , and they do seem to heatsink better . 

So yes the plan was to foil the pill , but I was also looking for a host with more than standard mass , esp as the MC-E will most likely put out a lot more heat , so I would like a host thats nice n chunky .

The 1st one looks like it takes a drop in , but I dont know about the Hugsby G2 . 

Matt


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## AardvarkSagus

*Re: Looking for a Chunky p60 Host .*

If you want a P60 capable light with a lot of meat to it, you would have a hard time beating the Pila GL2. I realize the aesthetics aren't for everyone, but that thing is built like a tank.


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## carrot

*Re: Looking for a Chunky p60 Host .*

I think a really good P60 host is the Surefire 6P. Maybe I'm weird but I think it's probably the best host out there.


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## matt0

*Re: Looking for a Chunky p60 Host .*



carrot said:


> I think a really good P60 host is the Surefire 6P. Maybe I'm weird but I think it's probably the best host out there.



I prefer my C3 but in general, I would prefer a SureFire host over another brand.


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## kosPap

*Re: Looking for a Chunky p60 Host .*



carrot said:


> I think a really good P60 host is the Surefire 6P. Maybe I'm weird but I think it's probably the best host out there.


 
But this also depends on the module too...Especially regarding chinese modules....For a starting referemce see this

On the other hand if we enter the tinfoil trick indeed the SF is the best and Solarforce the worst (IIRC it has a cylindrical socket)


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## DM51

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Continuation thread


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## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



DM51 said:


> Continuation thread


 
Thanks DM51. I was going to pm Tom or you about this but you beat me to it. =)


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## csshih

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

oh jeez.. impressive work!
your thread never fails to impress me!


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## oldrock

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

+1 great thread! I look forward to seeing the updated kitchen pics for the K106 and any other reviews that users may have on them. I am still waiting for mine to arrive and should be getting close


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## Beacon of Light

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Bessie, did you or anyone ever review the Ultrafire c3 q3 6 mode light? Supposedly different UI than the 5 mode.


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## Phill

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Something ive wondered about. Would it not be better to have the table of lights sorted by their star rating rather than chronological ordering (perhaps with the date it was reviewed next to it)?

As the number of reviews expands, it becomes harder to just glance at the list and see what is rated highly. For instance, to find the highest rated AA light its the RC G2, which is equal for the highest rating but found at the bottom of the list.

Of course with 30 or so in the list its not so bad, but sooner or later it will grow to the point it becomes less obvious to compare.

Also, fwiw, id put the link to part 4 and the review links (the ones titled with the pink font) and the table all together one after the other by moving the pictures under the tables and the links to the previous parts id put at the very top (or perhaps below the update parts).

Just my opinion, dont take it as criticism


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## tnforever

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

What WOULD be great is if BB provided us with an excel (I'm guessing it's excel) file with the charts so I can sort them.

Anyway, got my RC-N3 from SB, wonderfully bright, more throwy than the L2D I have. I don't think it's worth the 50% premium just for the Q5 emitter, but it is wort hit for more personal and accountable service, as well as 2 day shipping!

The RC-N3 (single mode I have), does make you appreciate lower power modes though. If you use it in the pitch dark indoors it just blinds you. Makes an excellent thrower for my bike light though.


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## Superorb

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



tnforever said:


> What WOULD be great is if BB provided us with an excel (I'm guessing it's excel) file with the charts so I can sort them.
> 
> Anyway, got my RC-N3 from SB, wonderfully bright, more throwy than the L2D I have. I don't think it's worth the 50% premium just for the Q5 emitter, but it is wort hit for more personal and accountable service, as well as 2 day shipping!
> 
> The RC-N3 (single mode I have), does make you appreciate lower power modes though. If you use it in the pitch dark indoors it just blinds you. Makes an excellent thrower for my bike light though.


The Q5 version will be brighter and more efficient, so it will have a longer runtime than the non-Q5 version.


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## kramer5150

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

I have been playing around with an ultrafire 503B and trustfire TR-C2 (1x18650 / P60 hosts) and I find them perfectly serviceable hosts. The 503B in particular is VERY good overall. I am using DIY P60 modules and various 18650 cells.

If anyone is interested I will gladly post a detailed review of either... although you'll have to keep in mind I am using DIY modules that I mod for 1350 mah delivered to the XR-E. So my comments will be primarily on their physical performance as hosts.


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## rmteo

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

A review of the 503B would be great, thanks.

Did you see that they have an MC-E version of the TR-C2 - sku 18857?


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## phantom23

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

503B looks so much like Solarforce L2 (and SF 6P). From those two I prefer L2 - at the same price there are many interchangeable accessories. Ultrafire has different construction, there's only one common thing - both fit D26 modules...


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## kramer5150

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Heres some more pics of the WF-503B

Body tube, bezel and switch cap. You can't tell from these pics but the overall body diameter is ~3mm larger than a Surefire 6P, and the tailcap O-ring is a little thinner. The result is a bigger feeling light in the hand with a much thicker wall thickness than a 6P thats been bored for 18650.









Business end threads









Tail cap end threads. I spent some time fine tuning this end of th elight to get it to where I like it. Out of the box the body tube end was anodized. This forced current through the threads. My personal preference is to have a bare-metal tube end that butts up against the switch pill. That way current conducts more direct, without having to conduct through thread lube.









I also spent some time modding the switch cap. Out of the box its way too long overall length, and the cap bottoms out against the outside of the body tube. This again forces the current conduction path through the threads. I used a coarse grade file and shortened the cap by about 3.5 mm. This allows the body tube end to direct contact the switch pill ring. I also used some metal polish and smoothed out the O-ring contact surface. I don't think it really needed it, I just wanted a smooth, slick surface for the O-ring to slide on.









The bezel is pretty nice out of the box. Mine has some crude machining marks on the inside which can be seen when looking into the business end. Its nothing more than a cosmetic annoyance, although I am going to polish them out with some metal polish.









The O-ring is a little too big and does not engage the lens. I'm going to have to replace it with a slightly smaller one to better seal out water.





*-CHEERS-*
-Body tube walls and overall diameter are thicker than an 18650 modded 6P.
-Good heat sinking capabilities. The cavity for the P60 drop in is deep, and cradles the side wall length of the module snugly with some AL foil. Although the large diameter spring is still needed for electrical contact. Despite the spring, I still think there is enough body contact to adequately conduct heat. Using my DIY 1350 mah modules for 30 minute runs heats up the body of the light quickly, so surely heat is not being trapped. Although a spring-less design would still be my preference.
-Nice OD color, more green than type III Surefire anodize.
-Smooth feeling reverse clicky.
-Nice knurl grip and anti-roll bezel
-O-rings throughout, although the one on the front glass is too big.
-Smooth yet firm thread engagement, very close to my Fenix L1T.
-Can be completely taken apart.

*-JEERS-*
-O-ring at the front glass is too big, a smaller one is needed to properly seal out water from the front.
-Anodized body tube tail-end forces current through threaded areas.
-Bezel is a little thinner than my 6P, I am sure one drop will dent it. I wish the bezel were as thisk walled as the body tube.
-Spring-less body contact with the P60 would be my preference.

Overall I think its a good host, although not as great as a solarforce. The fact that it accepts 18650 cells puts it (and the solarforce) on another playing field than my trusty 6P. The 503B needs a little tweeking to get it to reach its full potential, but once you do that its a perfectly serviceable light for anyone on a tight budget.

**edit**
I bought this light used from another CPF'er, who bought it from ebay seller HKequipment. It originally came with a 7.4V Xenon module for $15 free S/H. At that price its a slam-dunk _excellent _value. To date this host offers the most bang for the buck that I have found.


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## barnefko

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

@Kramer 5150

Great detailed review of the WF-503B. As i happen to own a TR-C2 could you be so kind and also post a review with suggestions for improving? 
May i also ask you about your DIY 1350ma P60's? i am very interested in such. Did you review or describe them in another thread?

T.i.a


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## kramer5150

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



barnefko said:


> @Kramer 5150
> 
> Great detailed review of the WF-503B. As i happen to own a TR-C2 could you be so kind and also post a review with suggestions for improving?
> May i also ask you about your DIY 1350ma P60's? i am very interested in such. Did you review or describe them in another thread?
> 
> T.i.a



Sure, I think the TR-C2 is good to go out of the box. It already has good conduction from switch pill to body. Just lube the O-rings and threads to keep things smooth, and foil wrap the module to increase thermal conductivity and its good to go. IMHO thats the most significant technical difference between these two lights. The 503B cradles the LED module "deeper" for increased thermal contact, while the TR-C2 body tube business end is more shallow and does not have as much contact area. Still though I think the TR-C2 is a perfectly serviceable host as it is.

As for my modules, they are DX11836 modules modded for single cell (3-4.2V) operation. I bought 3 of these 1000mah drivers from DX:






I pulled two L7135-0813 drivers from the donor board and transplanted them onto locations A and B on the recipients. Another CPF'er did the same mod and measured 1350 mah to the LED on high. I can't remember the DX SKU number for these... but based on the user interface descriptions these boards I modded have the same UI as DX 7612 (although the DX pictures do not look the same as my boards).

FWIW, you can double stack any 7135 drive chip and instantly gain ~350mah.

DX1886 would be my preference but they are build to order only (AFIAK). So you place an order and are put on a waiting list until DX gets the order quantities they need to place a build order with their supplier.


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## JRA240

*wich is a better buy MTE M3 or TrustFire SSC P7-c*

Wich is a more reliable light the MTE M3 (900 lumen) or the TrustFire SSC P7-C (900 lumen)

Are they realy as bright as they say they are... because I dont understand if you put 4 Led's in one it would it make it more bright and have more lux ?

I was planing on buying the mte m3 in till i was showed the TrustFire

thank you...


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## bullettproof

*Re: wich is a better buy MTE M3 or TrustFire SSC P7-c*

Trustfire 2x18560 is better because it has better heatsinking with a bigger head. Very bright 600+ Lumens. Its also able to drive the P7 hard because it has 2 batteries. Get a single mode I have one and like it. The tint is very cool but for the mmoney I cant complain.


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## Phill

*Re: wich is a better buy MTE M3 or TrustFire SSC P7-c*



JRA240 said:


> Wich is a more reliable light the MTE M3 (900 lumen) or the TrustFire SSC P7-C (900 lumen)
> 
> Are they realy as bright as they say they are... because I dont understand if you put 4 Led's in one it would it make it more bright and have more lux ?
> 
> I was planing on buying the mte m3 in till i was showed the TrustFire
> 
> thank you...



If you like flood over throw then the RC T6 reviewed by BB here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2888102&postcount=317

would be a good alternative. Dont let the 900 lumen claims of the other two make you instantly ignore this one claiming 500 - in reality the two will be pretty close and given how your eye picks up light it will look closer still in use. Plus the lumen output of the MTE and Trustfire is only a theoretical 700 lumen i read somewhere - and in reality it will be lower than that. In fact a couple people on the DX product forums claim this is brighter than their P7 lights.

The advantages is it can run the 6 LEDs at a lower current each to produce the similar light output meaning it will be more efficient and overheating a lot less. It also has no strobe or any other additional BS on it too.

If you cant tell, ive thought about getting one when i want to invest in a cheap "big light".


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## tnforever

*Re: wich is a better buy MTE M3 or TrustFire SSC P7-c*

In continuation from the previous thread, so I gather that Romisen, Ultrafire, and MTE are all decent brands from DX, as is Liteflux

That's wat I really needed, there are so many lights on DX it's hard to choose.


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## baterija

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



tnforever said:


> In continuation from the previous thread, so I gather that Romisen, Ultrafire, and MTE are all decent brands from DX, as is Liteflux



Liteflux isn't really a budget brand. They boast a lot of features and high quality. They also happen to all show as being "sold out" on DX. The latest models are available from Khoo ( screen name LED Cool) in the marketplace and eliteled their US distributor.


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## tnforever

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Yea, I figured as much, they cost almost as much as some of the Fenixes. 

But my post from the last thread really wanted a good starting point to see what budget lights as a starting point.

edit: wow I just realized my post didn't make any sense

I meant that I wanted to continue my thoughts and posts from my last thread to have a few good brands as a starting point for budget lights.


----------



## oldrock

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

got the news today! my 3 K106 lights are waiting for me along with a pair of trustfire rechargables and charger.  I will be doing some informal testing of the lights with eneloop, sanyo 2700 and the trustfire batteries tonight!


----------



## oldrock

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

I've had a chance to play with all three of my K106 lights now and the good news is all of them work! I'd never ordered lights from DX before so was a bit anxious but the package arrived well packed and all items were in working order. I have tested the lights with alkaline, eneloops, sanyo 2700s and trustfire lithiums. No problems working with any of the batteries. The lithium ones are most definately brighter than alkaline or nimh. I'm going to wait till dark and try to get a few pics with my digital camera. Till then, I can say the lights are not easy to program but after a bit of trial and error, I was able to get all three programmed. Lights were able to remember last setting too which I liked. I think I am leaving mine programmed to do min low, about half way and max high. one is going to get setup with min low, max high and fast strobe. That one will be mounted on a firestick :naughty:

One interesting thing about my lights... one of the three didn't have any writing on the case and was tinted a bit different. Everything else was identical except it had smoother threads on the cap and better o-rings. Light output appeared the same although I will be able to test all three when it gets dark. 

Overall, I am already pretty impressed with these little suckers. The programming feature is very handy and light output seems very good with nimh and outstanding with lithium. Build quality looks good although one small nitpic I have is they seem to be pretty sensative to screwing the cap down very snug. When I don't crank the cap down nice and tight, the light had a little tendency to flicker right after you turned it on or when you gently tapped the side of the light. I seem to remember someone had an easy fix for this but will have to search thru the posts and see if I can find it. If anyone has suggestions on how to fix that, let me know. 

Will see if I can get some pics later but really like the lights so far! If they hold up well, I may buy a few more as they seem like great little Christmas gifts. What guy doesn't like a nice small light that is powerful, runs on a single AA battery adn slips right in your front pocket. Even has a handy little spring clip which works great!


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

FYI, the Romisen RC-N3 II Q5 (from shinningbeam) has been added to my 2xAA round-up review.

I haven't updated my 1xRCR/CR123A round-up yet, but output levels on primary CR123A are similar to 2xAA. On RCR, you loose the low mode initially, and light runs mainly on direct drive (similar to the Fenix P2D).

Overall, good value for the price, I think.

:wave:


----------



## oldrock

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

pics didn't turn out great but I'll put them up anyway and might give folks some idea of relative power of the lights. I did two different samples. The first one was shining on fence from about 25feet. Second one was at 25 yards. I used the K106 with a fresh alkaline, a fresh off charger eneloop and fresh off charger truefire lithium rechargable. Shots were taken after 1min of ontime since I noticed it seemed brighter the first few seconds and then ramps down a bit and I didn't want to bias the results. Also used an incandesent minimag 2aa and 3d maglight for relative comparisons. 

2aa maglight at 25 feet




2aa maglight at 25 yards





3d maglight at 25 feet




3d maglight at 25 yards





K106 alkaline at 25 feet




K106 alkaline at 25 yards




K106 eloop at 25 feet




k106 eloop at 25 yards




k106 lith at 25 feet




k106 lith at 25 yards





no mystery that the K106 blew away the mini mag and easily beat the 3d maglight. What was interesting is that the alkaline was noticably weaker than the eneloop. What everyone has said is also true, the lithiums really rock in this light. However the eneloop was still very bright for such a small compact light.


----------



## s.c.

*Re: Looking for a Chunky p60 Host .*

Can you please elaborate on the tin foil trick? I recently got a R2 drop in for my G2 but seems to work only when pointing downwards.

Edit: nevermind...I don't know how this post got here, I was using my iPhone to post in another thread.


----------



## traplight

*DX MC-E p60 module*

To put it simply... incredible deal!

I'll spare all of the photo close-ups and get right to the details

Pros (depending upon your perspective):
- Puts out an incredible amount of light
- Draws ~1.78 amps average on high (105 deg F tested)
- Very floody with SINGLE faint ring on peripheral cone
- Safely draws from Trustfire,LG's, and Panasonic 18650's
- Led was centered perfectly
- Very smooth beam for 25-30 deg.
- Reasonable price
- Convenient p60 size rig
- springs are gold plated

Cons:
- This thing will cook without proper HS
- questionable QC on solder points to brass pill (yes, it is brass, NOT copper... butstill effective for what it's worth)
- rings around base of reflector may causwe heat build up because they trap air rather than making contact with outer flashlight body.

This is my first MC-E purchase and I was amazed at the quality of light this puts out. The light quality is just a hair under neutral with a very, very small amount of coolness throughout the entire spread.

Anything past 1m shows no signs of die shadow due to OP.

After playing with this for a couple of hours, some of the things which will be changed:
- Increase durface area contact by filling the reflector base fluting with copper wire and AA
- add more grd solder points

I had a non base mounted MC-E ready for a headlamp creation, and ran across this ~1.5 months ago and decided to take the plunge. It has definately surpassed my expectations as far as quality to price ratio.

it gets an 8.9/10 out of the box with potential for 9.8/10 after a few 'adjustments'

tks DX

If anyone else has any input on a version they received from DX, please feel free to addend.

If enough people request it, i'll be more than obliged to post some beamshots from both wall and outside.


----------



## krisman136

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

I was wondering if you guys can help me find the perfect flashlight. I'm looking for something really bright, maybe like a 900 luminous, or whatever. I'm looking for a smooth spotlight sort of light. I want it Waterproof because I want to take it hiking with me, and maybe caving. can you suggest some flashlights?


----------



## ace0001a

*Re: DX MC-E p60 module*



traplight said:


> - Reasonable price



Reasonable price is an understatement. Try, rock bottom dirt cheap. And trust me as I am a cheap ******* myself, so I understand the perspective. A reasonably priced standard P60LED dropin would be what is charged for this MC-E one. The Malkoff M60MCE is on the higher price range, but is of super high quality. I guess if there was actually a reasonably priced mid range P60MCE, it would probably be in the $40-$50 price range. You have to factor in that the LED component itself shoud be around $20-$30 of the total price.


----------



## old4570

*Re: Looking for a Chunky p60 Host .*







Here is my R2 Pill wrapped in al-foil , you wrap it till its a snug fit in in the host .

I used tin foil + Tarzan grip [ glue ] , to hold it together , then popped it in the host to let dry , dont get glue on the outside , use it inside the foil , and just a little . I then took of the reflector and trimmed the foil at the base .


----------



## flip

*Re: DX MC-E p60 module*

I have one ordered. I can't wait for it to arrive.


----------



## old4570

*Re: DX MC-E p60 module*

MC-E drop in / 18650 Body 
Ultrafire 18650 2400mA Protected - Hi 1.23A - Lo o.45mA
123A Body
DX RCR123A 1.13A Hi - o.42mA Lo

Swapped out the driver with : SSC P7 Li-ion 5-mode driver SKU: S005025 over at KD / ProductId=1845

Mini L2 MC-E with the new driver ...

DX RCR123A 3.7v - Hi 1.3A , Med o.6mA , Lo o.13mA 
Ebay RCR123A 3.7v - Hi 1.33A . Med 0.68mA , Lo o.15mA
Ultrafire RCR123A 3.7 - Hi 1.2A . Med o.57mA , Lo o.13mA 

Looks like the quality is going to be all over the place :

Very clean light in the middle , but very pronounced rings on the outer edge .
Not very noticeable once outside . 

Im going to use my Mini L2 MC-E to test some RCR123A Batts , just waiting for 2 more brands to arrive , then time to test some RCR123A 

Matt


----------



## Bullzeyebill

*Re: Looking for a Chunky p60 Host .*

Looks like one of my drop-ins. I use al foil just for heat sinking to body. I even foil my Malkoff's.

Bill


----------



## old4570

*Re: Looking for a Chunky p60 Host .*

Yeah , Ive had the MC-E in my UF WF-502B .. also in my Solarforce L2 and L2 Mini .. Currently its set up as a L2 Mini MC-E . 

I have Al-foil wrapped around it for better heatsinking , but for me the MC-E is a little disappointing and only puts out about half the claimed lumen , still beats out a R2 by 30% or more , but not super flash .

Reduced output means less heat , but would have been nice if it had done as advertised , oh well . Will keep my eye on drivers , maybe one will come along that can actually push 2Amp + in a single layer 17mm format .


----------



## hyperloop

*Re: Looking for a Chunky p60 Host .*



old4570 said:


> Yeah , Ive had the MC-E in my UF WF-502B .. also in my Solarforce L2 and L2 Mini .. Currently its set up as a L2 Mini MC-E .
> 
> I have Al-foil wrapped around it for better heatsinking , but for me the MC-E is a little disappointing and only puts out about half the claimed lumen , still beats out a R2 by 30% or more , but not super flash .
> 
> Reduced output means less heat , but would have been nice if it had done as advertised , oh well . Will keep my eye on drivers , maybe one will come along that can actually push 2Amp + in a single layer 17mm format .


 
+1 on the output, i have been soooo tempted to try it on 2xRCR123s but dont want to  the LED as its rated at 4.2v max.

Seeing that its more a flooder than a thrower, it is still a bright light for its price point and it should be more than 225 lumens as i compared it with my Jet III Pro ST, it sure as heck lights up a large area though not to its advertised output, ah well, you get what you pay for i guess.


----------



## Cemoi

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



oldrock said:


> When I don't crank the cap down nice and tight, the light had a little tendency to flicker right after you turned it on or when you gently tapped the side of the light. I seem to remember someone had an easy fix for this but will have to search thru the posts and see if I can find it. If anyone has suggestions on how to fix that, let me know.



This report, which I have posted in the Akoray AA and AAA review thread might help:

_When I received mine, the switch worked only as a temporary switch (i.e. partially depressed). Any further action (fully depressed = locked switch) resulted in either flickering light or no light at all.
So I took the whole tail apart, put some Deoxit inside the switch and on all contacts, and reassembled it.
Now the switch works properly, and is slightly less hard to push (...)_


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

hyperloop & old4570...FWIW, the DX:21037 MC-E has been measured as follows:

1xIMR 16340, SF E1B Host, custom mod
High = 337 at turn-on
Low = 137 at turn-on

1x18650, Solarforce L2, AR coated glass
High = 385L at turn-on
High = 345L after warm up
Low = 150L after warm up

So cell type makes a difference as does the thermal cooling abilities of the host used.


----------



## oldrock

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



Cemoi said:


> This report, which I have posted in the Akoray AA and AAA review thread might help:
> 
> Thanks for the link Cemoi. Really enjoy this thread. So many cool sounding lights. I think I am going to have to put together a second order real soon


----------



## genotypic

*Akoray K-106 Dying / Dead LED (Pics)*

I was just doing some runtime tests on the Akoray AA and noticed that the tint was gradually becoming warmer! :thinking:

It was pretty subtle initially, and I had to compare it side by side with my LF2X to confirm. I thought at first just to continue and see what happens..

I let it run for a while longer and within a minute or so it turned to an incan like bronze color with a dark hole in the middle!! 

So i switched off the light an let it rest a while, and when I turned it back on again, it was much dimmer than used to be!

Here's the LF2X on the left and akoray on the right:






The Akoray used to be brighter and cooler. (LF2X left, Akoray right)






The centre Q5 emitter seems to have been burnt 






A burnt Q5..






The light eventually dimmed and died in a warm, faint afterglow... :shakehead

Is this common for LEDs to get burnt like this? Could it have something to do with the LED driven at a high current, as measured by some in the Akoray thread? Strangely, I actually liked the warm tint it coughed up in its last minutes.. 

Oh well, guess it's time to look for a new edc.


----------



## bisar_x

*Re: Akoray K-106 Dying / Dead LED (Pics)*

What battery did you use?


----------



## genotypic

*Re: Akoray K-106 Dying / Dead LED (Pics)*



bisar_x said:


> What battery did you use?



I run them almost exclusively on Trustfire protected 14500s since I got the light last November and it hadn't given me any problems so far..


----------



## oldrock

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

hate to hear of it failing with a trustfire protected. That is what I am running in one of my K106. In fact, it is in my pocket as a daily carry with the trustfire. I wonder how common that premature failure is with the lithium vs nimh?


----------



## bisar_x

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

AFAIK, is not 100% safe to run 14500 on high mode with Akoray.


----------



## Benson

*Re: Akoray K-106 Dying / Dead LED (Pics)*



genotypic said:


> I was just doing some runtime tests on the Akoray AA and noticed that the tint was gradually becoming warmer! :thinking:
> 
> It was pretty subtle initially, and I had to compare it side by side with my LF2X to confirm. I thought at first just to continue and see what happens..
> 
> I let it run for a while longer and within a minute or so it turned to an incan like bronze color with a dark hole in the middle!!
> 
> So i switched off the light an let it rest a while, and when I turned it back on again, it was much dimmer than used to be!





> The light eventually dimmed and died in a warm, faint afterglow... :shakehead
> 
> Is this common for LEDs to get burnt like this? Could it have something to do with the LED driven at a high current, as measured by some in the Akoray thread? Strangely, I actually liked the warm tint it coughed up in its last minutes..
> 
> Oh well, guess it's time to look for a new edc.


Not common, really, but it's one of the known ways LEDs fail when driven too hot for the heatsinking provided. Could be due to excess current.

Do you know whether yours was a 3-mode programmable, or the earlier 6-mode? (Or better, but less likely, had you measured the current draw from the battery on high?)

Some defective units are known to draw up to 4A from a Li-ion -- that's not only rather unsafe for the battery, it's also likely to burn up the LED (like yours). Most (?) of the 3-mode ones draw around 1.8 to 2.0A, which is just on the edge of unsafe for the cell, but should be at much lower risk of smoking an LED.

It'd be nice to confirm that yours was a defective over-current version, and to confirm that they mainly/only were old 6-mode versions, or conversely, that the new 3-mode versions are also at risk.


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: Akoray K-106 Dying / Dead LED (Pics)*



genotypic said:


> I was just doing some runtime tests on the Akoray AA and noticed that the tint was gradually becoming warmer! :thinking:
> 
> Is this common for LEDs to get burnt like this? Could it have something to do with the LED driven at a high current, as measured by some in the Akoray thread? Strangely, I actually liked the warm tint it coughed up in its last minutes..
> 
> Oh well, guess it's time to look for a new edc.



Yes... a thermal design that does not draw enough heat from the emitter and dissipate it to the surrounding air WILL overheat the Phosphur die surface and cook it as you have shown. Thermal conduction and thermal emissivity are the key elements in the success of a high current design.

IMHO any 6P / P60 drop in that drives the LED near (and over) 1400mah should only be used for short burst time duration, or monitored closely if used for longer stints. IMHO direct driven P7 and MC-E modules are at risk of thermally nuking themselves if left on for extended 4-5 minute periods. IMHO the Malkoff modules are the only ones that are superbly designed with thermal cooling in mind.

Whats nice about the DX:MC-E is it has a low current mode. So you can still use it for longer periods at a lower Lumen setting.


You can see the effects of thermal heating in this graph from selfbuilt... the DX11074 is brighter at the 0:00 mark than it is after 10-30 minutes.





MrGman has some good Lumen measurements that show the ill-effects of Emitter heating.


----------



## genotypic

*Re: Akoray K-106 Dying / Dead LED (Pics)*



Benson said:


> Do you know whether yours was a 3-mode programmable, or the earlier 6-mode? (Or better, but less likely, had you measured the current draw from the battery on high?)
> 
> Some defective units are known to draw up to 4A from a Li-ion -- that's not only rather unsafe for the battery, it's also likely to burn up the LED (like yours). Most (?) of the 3-mode ones draw around 1.8 to 2.0A, which is just on the edge of unsafe for the cell, but should be at much lower risk of smoking an LED.
> 
> It'd be nice to confirm that yours was a defective over-current version, and to confirm that they mainly/only were old 6-mode versions, or conversely, that the new 3-mode versions are also at risk.




I have the 3 mode programmable version of the light, programmed to lowest, mid, and highest. Unfortunately I've got a lousy multimeter that only measures currents up to 0.2A so I'm not able to tell what the current was driving the LED. 

Kramer thanks for your explaination. The funny thing is I wasn't even running it at high when I noticed the warming of the LED. I once left it on high for 40 minutes with 14500s and it seemed to be doing fine. 

Well, let's just hope that it's just my light that's defective and not the entire line out there. It might also be wise to consider not setting the light at max especially when running 14500s.


----------



## oldrock

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

I haven't checked the current draw on mine but maybe I should. Was your light warm or hot when running on high for extended time? I haven't done a full drain on high with the 14500 but after a few mins on high, mine does get warm but not so warm that it is uncomfortable to hold so I assume mine isn't drawing too much.


----------



## genotypic

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Mine's just like how you described, it gets quite warm, but not uncomfortably so after a few minutes of use, and then the temperature remains sorta constant when handheld.

That's what USUALLY happens..

However, yesterday the light seemed to be unsually hot just before turning yellow. I have no idea what might have caused it to . It was just in medium mode.

I don't think it's the high current is the main cause, but I might be wrong. If it is then why didn't the LED burn out when I was doing the runtime tests on maximum many months ago? It's weird..mm... I got 40+ minutes on Max using a 14500 back then.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



genotypic said:


> Mine's just like how you described, it gets quite warm, but not uncomfortably so after a few minutes of use, and then the temperature remains sorta constant when handheld.
> 
> That's what USUALLY happens..
> 
> However, yesterday the light seemed to be unsually hot just before turning yellow. I have no idea what might have caused it to . It was just in medium mode.
> 
> I don't think it's the high current is the main cause, but I might be wrong. If it is then why didn't the LED burn out when I was doing the runtime tests on maximum many months ago? It's weird..mm... I got 40+ minutes on Max using a 14500 back then.



LED or driver ? Oooops - seen the pictures .


----------



## Benson

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



genotypic said:


> Mine's just like how you described, it gets quite warm, but not uncomfortably so after a few minutes of use, and then the temperature remains sorta constant when handheld.
> 
> That's what USUALLY happens..
> 
> However, yesterday the light seemed to be unsually hot just before turning yellow. I have no idea what might have caused it to . It was just in medium mode.
> 
> I don't think it's the high current is the main cause, but I might be wrong. If it is then why didn't the LED burn out when I was doing the runtime tests on maximum many months ago? It's weird..mm... I got 40+ minutes on Max using a 14500 back then.


Odd. I suspect something else may have shorted in the driver, overheating the whole head. If it were a simple heatsinking failure (the LED came unstuck from its heatsink), or just that your light always overdrives, the whole light should have been no warmer than normal -- your description of the whole light getting hot indicates excessive heat generation somewhere.


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: Akoray K-106 Dying / Dead LED (Pics)*



genotypic said:


> Kramer thanks for your explaination. The funny thing is I wasn't even running it at high when I noticed the warming of the LED. I once left it on high for 40 minutes with 14500s and it seemed to be doing fine.



Sure np... if it over heated on medium or low that sounds like a driver failure, like it failed and ran the XR-E direct drive. The charred patch in the center of the phosphorus is caused by the lethal combination of excess current or voltage passing through the die and insufficient heat sinking. Most likely not by heat applied externally from the cell or DC board.

See my video here, where I wave solder/desolder an XR-E placing it on a HOT stove burner. I did not measure the temperature to the XR-E, but its probably in the 250 degree F range (hot enough to flow the solder), yet the XR-E die remains un-burnt.

If that flashlight were actually hot enough to scald the phosphor die, you'd suffer a 3rd degree burn in a microsecond trying to handle it, plastic rubber and soft parts would melt and the 14500 cell would probably show signs of extensive thermal damage.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHyRLQexJpA


----------



## old4570

*Which MC-E*

TrustFire TR-C2 Cree MC-E = dx/sku.18857

Or 

UltraFire C1 CREE MC-E = ProductId=7133 SKU: S007103 KD 

:thinking:


----------



## jakeman

*Battery Question*

I have been lurking on these forums for the last couple of days and I have a question I just can't seem to find by searching. I just recently purchased a Romisen RF-F4 Q5 torch which should be here in a couple of days. However the more I look into the proper battery types the more I get confused. I believe it can either use 3.6V CR123A's or 17670's. The CR123's seem short and fat and the 17670's seem longer and thinner. Can this light really use etiher type? If anyone could fill me in on the proper type I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance, this is a great forum. :thumbsup:


----------



## Marduke

*Re: Battery Question*

The light is designed for 2xRCR123.

It will work on 1x17670, but much of the runtime will be direct drive, with decreasing brightness.


----------



## Disco888

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Hello, just signed up and 
I just found this thread tonight (starting at part 1)---should have checked the dates of the posts---that was a lot of reading but I've learnt a lot.....its so good having info like this to hand for relative newcomers like me..

Can i just ask if anybody can explain the differences between the Eastward lights---YJ 18WD, YJ 18WF, YJ 18WA,....,YJ XAQ5????

Is there still a problem with the xaq5 still damaging the leds? I read about it in part 4ish of this thread but didn't see the conclusion ...

Cheers,
disco


----------



## vestureofblood

*Re: Which MC-E*

HI old4570,

I am not familiar with the KD light, but I do have one of the MC-E lights from DX like the one you mentioned. 

I actually was impressed with the light for the price. The best features on it for me were the body. It is very thick and sturdy for a cheap light, and mine has great threads on it. The tail switch feels better than any other I have had. I also like the color tint I received, its very white, cool white but not a lot of blue in it at all in my eyes.

Cons for this light are the driver could be a lot better in my opinion. I doubt that the emitter actually sees 2.8 amp on high. I changed mine to direct drive and it was definitely brighter. Which brings us to the next point. Heat sinking could be better for this light. The drop in barley touches the sides so head did not transfer well. To manage the head from DD I had to stuff foil in around the drop in, and then it transferred the heat to the body just fine. 

The beam has a few rings around the out side edge, but over all it was not too bad. I knew before I got it that I would probably mod it so for me it was a lot of fun for a little money.


----------



## Disco888

*Suggestions wated for wf-500 upgrade to LED...*

Hi everyone,

I've got an Ultrafire wf-500 and want to change it to LED. Wot is the best way to go about it? I'm still after a decent throw but am not sure the best way to continue. I am a newbie to this game and electronics is not my strong point, but i'm willing to give it a go.

Wot suggestions do you have? 

Disco:wave:


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: Which MC-E*

IMHO the TR-C2 is not suitable for higher current modules. It doesn;t really have the body to module contact to dissipate the heat. Now if you keep it on for short bursts only, its fine. Its longer runs that drive up emitter temperatures that are risky IMHO. Although this an be alleviated to some extent with some foil wrap action, to try and capitalize on what body contact it does have.

I have been impressed with the ultrafire 503B. Its body tube has a very deep-welled business end that cradles the drop in all the way from the pill-end of the reflector to where the taper begins. Pack the module in foil and its a GREAT heat sinking design. Note that you still need to use the large spring to conduct current, and because of this there are no bezel gaps. IMHO the only way to further improve the 503B is to raise the "ridge" up inside the body, such that the pill direct contacts the body, without the large spring.

I don't have any experience with the C1... you might want to consider the solarforce 1x18650.

A very generous CPF'er is offering free 6/9P boring on the CPF marketplace. you could always go that route... my 6P is currently in the shop:thumbsup:


----------



## old4570

*Re: Which MC-E*

I have the Solarforce L2 18650 Bodies [ 3 By next week ] 

Im thinking one will be R2 - another will be MC-E and the 3rd body will become 2 x 18650 R2 , and the mini will go back to R2 ..

Ive wanted a C1 for a while , so combined with MC-E , I think they all use the same 3 mode driver , so ?? , maybe waiting a while for another driver ?
Might be time for a Cree R4 or a S2 .

The MC-E with Al-foil runs fine in my Mini L2 . I was just thinking of adding another MC-E into the rotation .


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



Disco888 said:


> Can i just ask if anybody can explain the differences between the Eastward lights---YJ 18WD, YJ 18WF, YJ 18WA,....,YJ XAQ5????
> 
> Is there still a problem with the xaq5 still damaging the leds? I read about it in part 4ish of this thread but didn't see the conclusion ...
> 
> Cheers,
> disco


 
Welcome to CPF disco. =)

The Eastward lights are fairly cheapy (in terms of quality) LED lights.
The lights you mentioned are all very similar. Just different shapes.

The LED which dimmed is actually a common problem with any LED lights.
Usually it has nothing to do with the flashlight itself. Just bad luck really.
Not all emitters last 100000+ hours. You can end up with a dud emitter.
But, it can happen due to overheating caused by bad heatsinking.
Wasn't the case with the XAQ5 I had. So it turned out to be bad luck.

Regarding conversion of WF-500 to LED, I'm not 100% sure what's available.
Qucik search at DX gave me this option. But not sure if it's the best option.

I would rather recommend maybe getting a new light instead for best outcome.
eg. You can get a Romisen RC-F4 for about the same price as that drop in.


----------



## old4570

*Ultrafire MCD-WF-2000F SSC P7-D-SWO HA-III 3-Mode 800-Lumen LED Flashlight (3*18650)*

Ultrafire MCD-WF-2000F SSC P7-D-SWO HA-III 3-Mode 800-Lumen LED Flashlight (3*18650)

Anyone have one yet ?


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



bessiebenny said:


> Welcome to CPF disco. =)
> 
> The Eastward lights are fairly cheapy (in terms of quality) LED lights.
> The lights you mentioned are all very similar. Just different shapes.
> 
> The LED which dimmed is actually a common problem with any LED lights.
> Usually it has nothing to do with the flashlight itself. Just bad luck really.
> Not all emitters last 100000+ hours. You can end up with a dud emitter.
> But, it can happen due to overheating caused by bad heatsinking.
> Wasn't the case with the XAQ5 I had. So it turned out to be bad luck.
> 
> Regarding conversion of WF-500 to LED, I'm not 100% sure what's available.
> Qucik search at DX gave me this option. But not sure if it's the best option.
> 
> I would rather recommend maybe getting a new light instead for best outcome.
> eg. You can get a Romisen RC-F4 for about the same price as that drop in.


RE option :
The driver sux's , 580mA , thats just weak ! Should be able to push at least 700mA to a Cree P4 . I see people knocking the P4 when they should be knocking the driver . 

Ive been looking at a WF-500 . and wondering about a Q5 and driver swap . First I need to build a 5 Mode Q5 Twisty 1 x CR123A , as well a Q5 P60 drop in for testing drivers .. PS/ When will we see some R4's or R5's ??
A WF-500 with a Q5 driven around 1Amp would be nice ... dx/sku.6998


----------



## richardcpf

*Re: Ultrafire MCD-WF-2000F SSC P7-D-SWO HA-III 3-Mode 800-Lumen LED Flashlight (3*186*

This is just another Ultrafire P7 light with a 3*18650 battery holder.

Nothing special about it. Throw few more bucks in you you are getting quality superbright lights, such as the eagletac megalight, tiablo ACE, legion2, fenix tk40, solarforce T700, etc.


----------



## Disco888

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Cheers bessiebenny and old4570.

Might go for one of the Eastwards--if only to try out another make

Had seen that P4 upgrade on DX but wasn't convinced it is the best option (like you say) --will have a trawl through some more threads and see where I end up.

Keep up the good work
Disco


----------



## Wiggle

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Sorry if I missed it, didn't see it on the list. Anyone have experience with UltraFire A10 HA-III Cree Q5-WC HA-III 220-Lumen sku 19187. It looks pretty nice and the HAIII is a cool feature. Was thinking about picking one up.


----------



## BurlyEd

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

I am on my second UltraFire A10. My sister wanted the first one, so I bought a second. I never really liked it though, until I tried it with a 14500. That makes it into a whole new flashlight! No more AA's for it.

For the money, I actually prefer the A30. But I would buy another AKOray K-106 with a 14500 first of all. 

I just got an UltraFire C308 (Q5) that I am very impressed with. I have not seen any mention of it anywhere, but I really like it. It has a very deep smooth reflector, 2 modes (a HIGH high and a LOW low). It is a heavy and versatile handfull of nice olive colored metal. Beautiful tight beam. I think it has the best overall quality of any UF I have. It feels like a weapon - a hammer!

:tsk::buddies:


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



BurlyEd said:


> I am on my second UltraFire A10. My sister wanted the first one, so I bought a second. I never really liked it though, until I tried it with a 14500. That makes it into a whole new flashlight! No more AA's for it.
> 
> For the money, I actually prefer the A30. But I would buy another AKOray K-106 with a 14500 first of all.
> 
> I just got an UltraFire C308 (Q5) that I am very impressed with. I have not seen any mention of it anywhere, but I really like it. It has a very deep smooth reflector, 2 modes (a HIGH high and a LOW low). It is a heavy and versatile handfull of nice olive colored metal. Beautiful tight beam. I think it has the best overall quality of any UF I have. It feels like a weapon - a hammer!
> 
> :tsk::buddies:



That ones caught my attention too, simple H/L modes and the reflector looks very deep indeed.

Can you post some beam pics? perhaps compare it to another light?

IMHO the last few releases from ultrafire have looked really good, and don't seem to be as clunky-junky as the previous releases.

thanks!!
:thumbsup:


----------



## Black Rose

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



kramer5150 said:


> IMHO the last few releases from ultrafire have looked really good, and don't seem to be as clunky-junky as the previous releases.


I wonder if they would apply their new QC to some of their old designs.

I'm considering getting a WF-501B with a K2 drop-in for $9.90 just to have a cheap beater host. I've seen your review on that model so know it's good and bad points.


----------



## jakeman

*Romisen pocket clip*

Just curious if there are any pocket clips that will work on the Romisen RC-F4 light. I know there are holsters available but can't seem to find any clips.


----------



## BurlyEd

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



kramer5150 said:


> That ones caught my attention too, simple H/L modes and the reflector looks very deep indeed.
> 
> Can you post some beam pics? perhaps compare it to another light?
> 
> IMHO the last few releases from ultrafire have looked really good, and don't seem to be as clunky-junky as the previous releases.
> 
> thanks!!
> :thumbsup:


It has the tightest beam of any light I have so far (21). There is a small very bright spot inside a small bright disk. The spill is small and faint. 
But I just ordered a Fenix TA30 which is reportedly made to be mounted on an AK-47. Might this be a "sniper's" flashlight?

@Blackrose

I bought the same K2 for the same reason. Quality is OK functionally, but shoddy manufacture, assembly and handling. Not cuddly like the C308.

:tsk: :buddies:


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



Black Rose said:


> I wonder if they would apply their new QC to some of their old designs.
> 
> I'm considering getting a WF-501B with a K2 drop-in for $9.90 just to have a cheap beater host. I've seen your review on that model so know it's good and bad points.



Its a good P60 host .. For that price , I dont know how they do it .


----------



## Benson

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



BurlyEd said:


> It has the tightest beam of any light I have so far (21). There is a small very bright spot inside a small bright disk. The spill is small and faint.


I have one, and really like the tight beam, but it isn't running at full power -- it seemed much dimmer than it should be on high, and I checked tailcap current at only 0.4A on an 18650... Can anyone confirm whether this is normal for these, or do I have a defective driver?

Either way, I'm still up in the air over whether to just replace the driver, or try an MC-E instead -- that deep reflector gives a tight enough beam that the spread from an MC-E wouldn't hurt it much for practical use, but at the same time, maxing out the throw would be fun, and even cheaper/easier.

I'm also wondering if I can find some other light whose head/bezel threads match the c3087's head/body joint -- the way the emitter is recessed when you take the head off makes for a pretty nice flood beam, if only it had a bezel and lens for protection.


----------



## sactime

*Looking for a floody <$20 led light*

I am trying to find a decent <$20 led light with lots of flood to mount on my bike. 

I would prefer that it use either 2x CR123A's or 1x 18650. The runtime needs to be at least 1.5 hours, and multi-mode is okay too.

I have tried searching cpf and dx without finding anything substantial. 

Something I can keep on for it's entire battery life without having to worry about it overheating.

Thanks for any help.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

AW- PRCR123A 3.7v – 750mAh - $9 each 
KD – PRCR123A 3.7v - 625mAh - $3.01 each .
Spiderfire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 1000mAh - $4 each . 
Ultrafire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 1000mAh - $3.19 each .
Ultrafire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 880mAh - $2.50 each .
Trustfire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 880mAh - $2.25 each .
E-bay – RCR123A 3.7v – 1000mAh - $2.20 each.
DX - RCR123A – 800mAh - $1.64 each .
Ultrafire – RCR123A – 880mAh - $3 each [ Ebay ] 
Solarforce – PRCR123A – 880mAh - $3.95 each [ 800mAh claimed by seller ] 


Just waiting on the Solarforce Batt's , then I will do a runtime test on each batt ..


----------



## old4570

*Re: Looking for a floody <$20 led light*



sactime said:


> I am trying to find a decent <$20 led light with lots of flood to mount on my bike.
> 
> I would prefer that it use either 2x CR123A's or 1x 18650. The runtime needs to be at least 1.5 hours, and multi-mode is okay too.
> 
> I have tried searching cpf and dx without finding anything substantial.
> 
> Something I can keep on for it's entire battery life without having to worry about it overheating.
> 
> Thanks for any help.



I dont know how much flood you need , but there are plenty of sub $20 lights to chose from . Try and pick one with a larger head . 

Id hate to try and recommend a flashlight I didnt own ...

A Ultrafire WF-501B or 502B with a 5 mode R2 is under $20 and may serve you well ...

I did post some beamshots .


----------



## Zatoichi

*Romisen RC-C3 o-ring?*

Does anyone know where I can get an o-ring to fit the RC-C3? I have several that will fit on, but they're all too thick for the head to screw over. The one it came with keeps slipping and getting nipped, so I'll probably need a replacement before very long. A slightly smaller one might be better, so it doesn't slip as much.


----------



## linterno

*Re: Looking for a floody <$20 led light*



sactime said:


> I am trying to find a decent <$20 led light with lots of flood to mount on my bike.
> 
> I would prefer that it use either 2x CR123A's or 1x 18650. The runtime needs to be at least 1.5 hours, and multi-mode is okay too.
> 
> I have tried searching cpf and dx without finding anything substantial.
> 
> Something I can keep on for it's entire battery life without having to worry about it overheating.
> 
> Thanks for any help.


I would recommend you Trustfire 5-mode TR-801. I own one an this is the best flood flashlight in my collection. I read in another bike forum about people who like this flashlight a lot. I replaced the stock driver with a DX 7612 (I use the 3 mode group which is low=10%, mid=35% and high=100%) and it is much better now.

Read this blog and this forum thread.


----------



## s.c.

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Got a MTE C2-1 and a RC-G2 the other day from dealextreme. I got both so I could use the RC-G2 tailcap (forward clicky, and smaller) on the MTE C2-1 (comes with a larger reverse clicky).

I had my doubts with such cheap lights, but these budget reviews finally convinced me to drop the whopping $30 on more lights I don't need. The tailcaps are easily swappable and I am very impressed with both lights.

I'm curious why more manufacturers don't use a lens like the C2-1. The beam is fantastic. It has a larger hotspot with great spill, I'm blown away for the price. Having the forward clicky from the rc-g2 makes it a great, compact light.

I don't know what it is about the RC-G2, but I really like it. Its big and funny looking, and not that bright, but I find myself playing with it more than the C2-1 (though "objectively," the C2-1 is a better light). It throws pretty decent due to the large reflector. I was impressed enough to order the Q5 shiningbeam version (should be here tomorrow). 

I've been on a light buying spree lately, and for the first time in my life, I'm wishing summer wasn't around the corner. I'll miss the shorter days and all the pockets on a winter jacket.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*





My MC-E Mini L2 Solarforce .. This will be my battery tester , Solarforce RCR123A's arrived this morning : Time to test batts .


http://www.photofreek.com/images/571_100_0276.jpg

*[over-size photo replaced by link - DM51]*


BB Budget Battery Test 

1/ KD – PRCR123A 3.7v - 625mAh - $3.01 each
2/ Solarforce PRCR123A 3.7v – 880mAh - $3.95 each [ 800mAh claimed by seller ] 
3/ Trustfire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 880mAh - $2.25 each .
4/ E-bay – RCR123A 3.7v – 1000mAh - $2.20 each.
5/ Ultrafire – RCR123A 3.7v – 880mAh - $3 each [ Ebay ] 
6/ AW- PRCR123A 3.7v – 750mAh - $9 each 
7/ Ultrafire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 1000mAh - $3.19 each
8/ Ultrafire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 880mAh - $2.50 each
9/ DX - RCR123A – 800mAh 3.7v - $1.64 each .
10/ Spiderfire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 1000mAh - $4 each

Just a quick note , most expensive is the AW , the cheapest is the DX and everything else falls in between , a few make the 1000mAh claim , Spiderfire - Flea-bay - Ultrafire , the rest seem to make reasonable claims . 

With so much battery snobbery etc floating around , one thought it time to put some possible BS to bed . This to me seems like a good roundup of batteries , I know its not all of them , but there the ones that are the most available , though the AW's are not so easy to buy , nor affordable , but what would a battery test be without one ? 

All the CR123A's have been fully charged and rested for 2 days .
I will start testing , and post results for each batt as its completed .

No1 KD – PRCR123A 3.7v - 625mAh - $3.01 each Length = 1.400inch Dia = o.650inch 

Started @ Voltage 4.09 Amp draw 1.5 
05 Minutes = V 3.90 A 1.6 ...Hot - The mini L2 gets hot after 3 minutes . 
10 Minutes = V 3.74 A 1.4 ..." " " 
15 Minutes = V 3.68 A 1.13
20 Minutes = V 3.47 A o.93 I noticed a bit of fade at this point .
25 Minutes = V 3.34 A 0.63 Flashlight is running much cooler 
30 Minutes = v 3.17 A o.35 Just about at the end , not much output + cool running now .
35 Minutes = V 2.97 A 0.25 Amps start at o.25 but quickly drop to o.15 , id say the batt is just about exhausted .

No2 Solarforce PRCR123A – 880mAh - $3.95 each [ 800mAh claimed by seller ] Length = 1.350inch Dia = o.650inch

Started @ Voltage 4.10 Amp draw 1.8
05 Minutes = V 3.89 A 1.71
10 Minutes = V 3.83 A 1.59
15 Minutes = V 3.73 A 1.4
20 Minutes = V 3.51 A 1.07
25 Minutes = V 3.00 A 0.31
30 Minutes = V 2.71 A o.o6 

No3 Trustfire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 880mAh - $2.25 each Length = 1.390inch Dia = o.655inch

Started @ Voltage 4.10 Amp draw 1.81
05 Minutes = V 3.86 A 1.67
10 Minutes = V 3.82 A 1.44
15 Minutes = V 3.68 A 1.32
20 Minutes = V 3.50 A 1.02
25 Minutes = V 3.04 A o.35
30 Minutes = V 2.77 A o.o8

No4 E-bay – RCR123A 3.7v – 1000mAh - $2.20 each. Length = 1.315inch Dia = .650inch 

Started @ Voltage 4.11 Amp draw 1.77
05 Minutes = V 3.87 A 1.66
10 Minutes = V 3.81 A 1.57
15 Minutes = V 3.73 A 1.45
20 Minutes = V 3.60 A 1.23
25 Minutes = V 3.46 A 1.01
30 Minutes = V 3.28 A o.72
35 minutes = V 2.84 A o.17

No5 Ultrafire – RCR123A 3.7v – 880mAh - $3 each [ Ebay ] Length = 1.310inch Dia = .650inch

Started @ Voltage 4.11 Amp draw 1.76
05 Minutes = V 3.93 A 1.8
10 Minutes = V 3.81 A 1.57
15 Minutes = V 3.70 A 1.47
20 Minutes = V 3.35 A o.8
25 Minutes = V 3.00 A o.1

No6 AW- PRCR123A 3.7v – 750mAh - $9 each Length 1.365inch Dia = .650inch

Started @ Voltage 4.12 Amp Draw 1.56
05 Minutes = V 3.89 A 1.51
10 Minutes = V 3.80 A 1.45
15 Minutes = V 3.74 A 1.39
20 Minutes = V 3.70 A 1.29
25 Minutes = V 3.54 A o.96
30 Minutes = V 2.95 A o.20


No7 Ultrafire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 1000mAh - $3.19 each Length = 1.450inch Dia = 0.660inch

Started @ Voltage 4.17 Amp draw 1.88
05 Minutes = V 3.91 A 1.69
10 Minutes = V 3.78 A 1.43
15 Minutes = V 3.75 A 1.3
20 Minutes = V 3.67 A 1.28
25 Minutes = V 3.23 A o.58
30 Minutes = V 2.85 A o.o6

No8 Ultrafire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 880mAh - $2.50 each Length = 1.430inch Dia = .655inch

Started @ Voltage 4.16 Amp draw 1.86
05 Minutes = V 3.90 A 1.63
10 Minutes = V 3.78 A 1.49
15 Minutes = V 3.74 A 1.35
20 Minutes = V 3.68 A 1.34
25 Minutes = V 3.44 A o.90
30 Minutes = V 2.88 A o.13






No9 DX - RCR123A – 800mAh 3.7v - $1.64 each Length = 1.340inch Dia = .650inch 

Started @ Voltage 4.08 Amp draw 1.71
05 Minutes = V 3.86 A 1.74
10 Minutes = V 3.74 A 1.44
15 Minutes = V 3.06 A o.30 and quickly dropping . 

No10 Spiderfire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 1000mAh - $4 each Length = 1.350inch Dia = .655inch 

Started @ Voltage 4.08 Amp draw 1.68
05 Minutes = V 3.83 A 1.58
10 Minutes = V 3.78 A 1.51
15 Minutes = V 3.69 A 1.35
20 Minutes = V 3.55 A 1.02
25 Minutes = V 3.44 A o.86
30 Minutes = V 3.32 A o.58
35 Minutes = V 3.13 A o.33 but dropping ...
Done it ! :wave:


----------



## Forgetful

*Need a 1xAA multimode (cheap)*

I'm looking for a cheaper 1xAA light. Preferably about 20ish or under. I'm going to use it for loaning around the campsite, general non-essential tasks, and to not be afraid of loosing it. 
I really want some sort of multi mode with 3 levels preferably. I don't need the darn strobe or SOS modes. (Of course I'll put up with them if need be)
The high would be nice to have around 60-100 lumins while the low around 5-15. I've searched the threads and have found people with almost the same exact question but the threads are sometimes 1+ years old. 
I'm not really a good member here since the only real flashlights I own are a 6p w/ M60l and a Romisen RC-N3 from DX.

I looked heavily at the tacked budget thread and have decided that the following might be good starting candidates:
-Akoray AA (I'm a little fuzzy on the 3 vs 6 mode though, which is better?)
-MTE C2-1 (it's only one mode though...)
-Ultrafire C3 Cree Q3 6-Mode (Q3? Is there something better, I know I'm cheap)


I know I got some high expectations for such a low price range. Also, I'd like to find the light on some website that doesn't take 4 weeks to ship stuff if possible(DX...)
Thanks guys!!


----------



## Cemoi

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



old4570 said:


> I will start testing , and post results for each batt as its completed .



Looking forward to the results, thanks in advance.
But shouldn't this be posted in the Electronics - batteries included forum?


----------



## sol-leks

*Re: Need a 1xAA multimode (cheap)*

Of the ones you mentioned, the one I have heard the best things about is the Akoray AA.
If you want another option do you think you could maybe go for a 2xAA light? Or maybe a 1xAA single-mode? That will open up some more options for you. Maybe the Romisen RC-n3 2 mode from shiningbeam, for example.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Why ? This is a Budget Batt test ..


----------



## old4570

*Re: Need a 1xAA multimode (cheap)*

Ultrafire A10 ... 

Just surf KD and DX ...


----------



## Cemoi

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



old4570 said:


> This is a Budget Batt test ..



In a budget *flashlights* roundup. 

Such a detailed and very interesting test would deserve its own thread, rather than being lost in a 9 part, several hundred post thread entitled "Budget Flashlight Review Roundup".


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Too much like hard work ! :mecry:

Ok were half way through and BS myth 1 busted / Ebay Batts Sux's 
I dont think so . 

Very interesting results so far


----------



## vali

*Re: Need a 1xAA multimode (cheap)*



Forgetful said:


> I'm looking for a cheaper 1xAA light. Preferably about 20ish or under. I'm going to use it for loaning around the campsite, general non-essential tasks, and to not be afraid of loosing it.
> I really want some sort of multi mode with 3 levels preferably. I don't need the darn strobe or SOS modes. (Of course I'll put up with them if need be)
> The high would be nice to have around 60-100 lumins while the low around 5-15. I've searched the threads and have found people with almost the same exact question but the threads are sometimes 1+ years old.
> I'm not really a good member here since the only real flashlights I own are a 6p w/ M60l and a Romisen RC-N3 from DX.
> 
> I looked heavily at the tacked budget thread and have decided that the following might be good starting candidates:
> -Akoray AA (I'm a little fuzzy on the 3 vs 6 mode though, which is better?)
> -MTE C2-1 (it's only one mode though...)
> -Ultrafire C3 Cree Q3 6-Mode (Q3? Is there something better, I know I'm cheap)
> 
> 
> I know I got some high expectations for such a low price range. Also, I'd like to find the light on some website that doesn't take 4 weeks to ship stuff if possible(DX...)
> Thanks guys!!



+1 For the Akoray. Just program it to low-med-high. Feels sturdy, have a clip and you can run it with your buddies "depleted" AA. Runtime is great on low for such a cheap flashlight and is waterproof (I tested it).


----------



## oldrock

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

+2 akoray AA. The programming makes it fit your needs exactly. Also very flexible since you can run it on alk, nimh and lithium.


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

*UPDATE*
- Sorry for lack of updates. Been too busy with my offline life. =(
- I've been looking for something new and found these two that looks "interesting".
- This and This. Although the AA flashlight interests me more, it's only 1-mode. So I think I'll get the 3-mode 3AAA version. (if I order it, I'll let you all know)
- Not sure if it's gonna be any good though. I hope it is. =)
- I have a lot of catching up to do and lots of photos to take. It will get done in due time. (but extremely slowly unfortunately)

p.s. CPF is being more proactive about removing/discouraging any advertising-like posts. I've never advertised but seems my thread has always been geared towards certain online shops. The DX/KD links are not the only links where these lights might be sold. I only link it to them coz that's where I buy from mostly and so it gives you a reference of how much it costs at least from 1 or 2 shops. There may be cheaper or better places. If so, definitely let us know. =) 

btw, I get no sponsorships/loyalties from ANY shop. I buy at same price as anyone else unfortunately. =P


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

(3*AAA) SKU: S007396

Ive been looking at the 3xAAA lights at KD and DX as well , esp as a friend is looking for a new flashy , but he wants supermarket batteries . 

I got the SAIK SA-8 a while ago , the driver went  and I fixed it with a 2 mode driver , but I think its a fantastic little light , even on 3xAAA . I gave it to my Mum as she only had some rubbish Retail lights . 

There seem to be a lot of 3xAAA / 1 x 18650 lights being ignored just because there 3xAAA . Im tempted to buy another SAIK , but there seem to be many 3xAAA around the $10USD mark and up , and for the average person who dont care about Flashaholism , might be right on the money . 

Matt


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

With 3AAA lights, you can also buy some 18500 batteries and use it instead of 3AAA.
BTW, Romisen RC-W4 is a very good 3AAA light also that deserves some attention.


----------



## Wiggle

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



oldrock said:


> +2 akoray AA. The programming makes it fit your needs exactly. Also very flexible since you can run it on alk, nimh and lithium.



I've got the 16340 version on the way, I think it'll be a nice little EDC.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



bessiebenny said:


> With 3AAA lights, you can also buy some 18500 batteries and use it instead of 3AAA.
> BTW, Romisen RC-W4 is a very good 3AAA light also that deserves some attention.



Yeah , ive considered the 18500 , esp as some of the dedicated 3xAAA are a little short for the 18650 ...

Yeah , Ive ho and hum ed over the RC-W4 .. Needs modes ...


----------



## jt4703

*Looking for 3 mode P7 on DX with Med/Hi/Strobe*

Delete this.


----------



## flip

*Re: Looking for 3 mode P7 on DX with Med/Hi/Strobe*

Oops! Sorry, I misread your post. I was going to suggest the MC-E drop-in from DX.


----------



## hyperloop

*Re: Looking for 3 mode P7 on DX with Med/Hi/Strobe*

i got this drop in, really like it too. But i must point out that the strobe is really fast and also i dont think that its 410 lumens on high but its still bright enough for me right now. It is very floody too.

I fitted it in a Ultrafire host with a reverse clicky and it works great. It can get warm though but if you're riding the air flow should be able to handle the heat issues.


----------



## BurlyEd

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



old4570 said:


> I got the SAIK SA-8 a while ago , the driver went  and I fixed it with a 2 mode driver , but I think its a fantastic little light , even on 3xAAA .



I had a SA-8 for a few minutes one day. I tried it with 3 x AAA, 18650, and 3 primary CR123A's. So far so good. Then I tried it with 2 16340's fresh off the charger. 

Please tell me where you found a 2 mode driver that fits the SA8. I could not find any driver with the same diameter as the original, but also thin enough to fit in the SA8. Does your new driver take 8.4v (I mean longer than a few milliseconds)?

My new UF C308 has a Q5 and a 2 mode driver with memory! I wish I could match that! The C308 is one of my favorite flashlights. It seems as well-made as a Solarforce bit it has the same versatile battery choices as the UF U4-MCU, and Romisen SA8 and RC-W4 (CR123A/18650/18500/AAA). I am still looking for holsters for my C308 and my new Fenix TA30. Any suggestions?
C308:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.20127

:tsk: :buddies:


----------



## Cemoi

*TANK007 TK-701 and TK-702 comparison*

I have bought both the TK-701 and the TK-702 (I only wanted the 701, but DX sent me the wrong one, and when I complained they proposed me to keep it and send me the correct one for half price).
But when I compare them I'm puzzled. 701 is supposed to be fitted with a SSC 42180-U, and 702 with a Cree P4. When I take a close look at the emitters, they seem identical:





Which LED is this?
It is different from the one visible on the picture on the DX description page for the TK-702. But in the same set of pictures the light body is labelled TK-701, so it looks all mixed up.
The construction quality is very poor for both (non anodized threads, one is flickery if fully tighten). On the other hand, I am rather satisfied (taking the price into account) by the clicky switch, the beam shape and the runtime. Here are a few beamshots of the hotspot:

TK-701 on the left, TK-702 on the right, full batteries:





After 50 mn, still equally bright:





After 60 mn, TK-702 is almost dead:





After 70 mn, TK-701 is very dim:





So apart from the number written on the body, the only differences are:

the runtime (about 25% more for my TK-701 labelled light)
the beam color: the TK-701 labelled is very cold, slightly purple, whereas the TK-702 labelled is a nice warm tint
If they actually use the same LED, they must be from very different color bins. And can the difference in runtime be explained by different Vf?


----------



## Centerfinger

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Just wanted to say thanks for your reviews. I have been looking at DX and trying to find the right thing for me. There is a lot to choose from.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



BurlyEd said:


> I had a SA-8 for a few minutes one day. I tried it with 3 x AAA, 18650, and 3 primary CR123A's. So far so good. Then I tried it with 2 16340's fresh off the charger.
> 
> Please tell me where you found a 2 mode driver that fits the SA8. I could not find any driver with the same diameter as the original, but also thin enough to fit in the SA8. Does your new driver take 8.4v (I mean longer than a few milliseconds)?
> 
> My new UF C308 has a Q5 and a 2 mode driver with memory! I wish I could match that! The C308 is one of my favorite flashlights. It seems as well-made as a Solarforce bit it has the same versatile battery choices as the UF U4-MCU, and Romisen SA8 and RC-W4 (CR123A/18650/18500/AAA). I am still looking for holsters for my C308 and my new Fenix TA30. Any suggestions?
> C308:
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.20127
> 
> :tsk: :buddies:



SAIK is limited / was to 6volts , the 2 mode driver is also limited to 6 V 
ProductId=1801 @ KD 2.5 to 6 Volt input range 
The SAIK uses a 20mm driver board , this one is 17mm , I made some legs for it to make it 20mm , made it a press fit and glued it .. It works .

I have 2 20mm 8mode drivers on order that run up to 9volts , but ??? where are they ?? [ Not from DX or KD ] . Its been at least a month now . 

Do a search for SAIK SA-8 as I made a post on the fix . https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/225727
Holsters :thinking: I really like the ones that came with my L2 solarforces , I have 3 of them now .. [ Holsters ] They seem to be well made and should fit just about any 18650 size flashy . [ P60 Host ] 

Matt


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: TANK007 TK-701 and TK-702 comparison*



old4570 said:


> My MC-E Mini L2 Solarforce .. This will be my battery tester , Solarforce RCR123A's arrived this morning : Time to test batts .


 
Awesome info! Thanks for posting it here. 
I've just added it at the main post now. =)




Cemoi said:


> Which LED is this?


 
It's a Seoul emitter. SSC emitters has that soft gel-like cover over the emitter. (If you press it, it's soft)


----------



## Cemoi

*Re: TANK007 TK-701 and TK-702 comparison*



bessiebenny said:


> It's a Seoul emitter



Thanks.
So I was right assuming that DX sent me in fact a second TK-702, incorrectly labelled 701.
Not sure it's worth submitting a new request for replacement.


----------



## Slash5

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



old4570 said:


> My MC-E Mini L2 Solarforce .. This will be my battery tester , Solarforce RCR123A's arrived this morning : Time to test batts .
> 
> 
> BB Budget Battery Test
> 
> 1/ KD – PRCR123A 3.7v - 625mAh - $3.01 each
> 2/ Solarforce PRCR123A 3.7v – 880mAh - $3.95 each [ 800mAh claimed by seller ]
> 3/ Trustfire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 880mAh - $2.25 each .
> 4/ E-bay – RCR123A 3.7v – 1000mAh - $2.20 each.
> 5/ Ultrafire – RCR123A 3.7v – 880mAh - $3 each [ Ebay ]
> 6/ AW- PRCR123A 3.7v – 750mAh - $9 each
> 7/ Ultrafire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 1000mAh - $3.19 each
> 8/ Ultrafire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 880mAh - $2.50 each
> 9/ DX - RCR123A – 800mAh 3.7v - $1.64 each .
> 10/ Spiderfire – PRCR123A 3.7v – 1000mAh - $4 each


 
Great test, been wondering how the cheap batteries compare.
I guess the remaining questions are:
Whats the difference between individual batteries - would another battery of same model follow the same curve.
And what would they be like after 10 or twenty cycles.

Looking through your stats, it looks like the Ultrafire protected 880 are as good as any and better than most - and the best bang for the buck.


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

@ Cemoi....

The DX page says a Cree XR-E is in that TK-702 (SKU:19622)... but the pics show a cree XR-C (two wire).

IMHO the XR-C isn't all that spectacular, it doesn't surprise me the Seoul version light outperforms it....:sigh:


----------



## Benson

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



kramer5150 said:


> @ Cemoi....
> 
> The DX page says a Cree XR-E is in that TK-702 (SKU:19622)... but the pics show a cree XR-C (two wire).
> 
> IMHO the XR-C isn't all that spectacular, it doesn't surprise me the Seoul version light outperforms it....:sigh:



The XR-C is just a low-current version of the XR-E; at the TK-702's 300mA, they'd both be equally unimpressive. I'd be more inclined to blame the TK-701's 350mA driver than the emitter.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



Slash5 said:


> Great test, been wondering how the cheap batteries compare.
> I guess the remaining questions are:
> Whats the difference between individual batteries - would another battery of same model follow the same curve.
> And what would they be like after 10 or twenty cycles.
> 
> Looking through your stats, it looks like the Ultrafire protected 880 are as good as any and better than most - and the best bang for the buck.



Depending , there may always be individual variation , so if you take into consideration , what part of the production run , or even which production run the batt came off , there will be some variation . Im not sure how many batt manufacturers there are for CR123A , there could be duplications , simply under different labels and production runs , others Like No ? could possibly be rejected batts from brand name distributors ... Possibly !

And for those No4's , I cant find them on flea bay , except for some Green 3v ones marked as 17335 ?


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



Benson said:


> The XR-C is just a low-current version of the XR-E; at the TK-702's 300mA, they'd both be equally unimpressive. I'd be more inclined to blame the TK-701's 350mA driver than the emitter.



Aah OK... I was under the (false) impression that the XR-E is brighter than the XR-C, at equal drive currents.:twothumbs


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



old4570 said:


> And for those No4's , I cant find them on flea bay , except for some Green 3v ones marked as 17335 ?


 
The ones Matt reviewed are from this ebay shop - stores.ebay.com/cwtco
Just search for RCR123A and you will find them. Cheap but non-protected.

*UPDATE*
- No idea why. Just out of impulse, I bought MTE SF-22 SSC P7-D-SXO 5-Mode just then.
- It looks mean and is one of the cheapest SSC P7 lights. Also is using the latest P7 D bin.
- I also ordered it as it looks like it might be able to tail stand. (Which I really like to have)
- Ordered some Ultrafire 18650's as well. (Cheapest protected 18650 - sku 19624)
- Anyways, I will do a full review when received. =)


----------



## Cemoi

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



kramer5150 said:


> it doesn't surprise me the Seoul version light outperforms it....:sigh:



Did you have the opportunity to compare both versions: TK-701 and the _actual_ (i.e Cree) TK-702)?


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Does anyone know the current capacity of the switch used in the Ultrafire 503-B? The DX MC-E module I am hosting it with draws about 2.10A (depending on the 18650 cell I use). Am I at risk of overloading the switch?

It seems OK after about ~10 cycles.

thanks in advance
:thinking:


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Wow - was surfing KD and I came across an interesting 3xAAA flashy ...
ProductId=7703 

 For the money ?? What the heck , might make for a nice mod project ... Not much info - typical KD , but at that price , ill take my chances . It looks like it could be Cree ?? , and two mode ?? In anyway , might make a nice 5 mode Q5 mod host ... 

Matt


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



old4570 said:


> Wow - was surfing KD and I came across an interesting 3xAAA flashy ...
> ProductId=7703
> 
> For the money ?? What the heck , might make for a nice mod project ... Not much info - typical KD , but at that price , ill take my chances . It looks like it could be Cree ?? , and two mode ?? In anyway , might make a nice 5 mode Q5 mod host ...
> 
> Matt


 
My view - Looks interesting indeed. Well, for the price at least. But it's definitely not a Cree. That's a generic LED. For that price, I guess the reflector would be plastic. Front lense is probably plastic also. No o-rings I would expect either. Looking at the beam shots, it might be a two mode though. btw, I'm more interested in that orange light which they accidently added. =P


----------



## Lightz

*newbie questions about romisen rc-g2 and Ma*

Hi guys,

Im new here. I would really appreciate it if you could help me out a little here.

I have read several reports that the romisen draws 1600 Ma from a battery. Where does it all go before it reaches the LED? is the max for an LED not supposed to be 20Ma.

Also is there anything i can do to make tthe runtime on the romisen longer? And dont most flashilights run at 350-700 Ma? Im really confused.

P.S i ordered it from DX a few days ago so it will be a while before i get it. This is my first proper flashlight.

Oh, and how does the brightness compare to my brothers tle-5

Thanks in advance for all the help guys!

>Lightz


----------



## old4570

*Re: newbie questions about romisen rc-g2 and Ma*



Lightz said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Im new here. I would really appreciate it if you could help me out a little here.
> 
> I have read several reports that the romisen draws 1600 Ma from a battery. Where does it all go before it reaches the LED? is the max for an LED not supposed to be 20Ma.
> 
> Also is there anything i can do to make tthe runtime on the romisen longer? And dont most flashilights run at 350-700 Ma? Im really confused.
> 
> P.S i ordered it from DX a few days ago so it will be a while before i get it. This is my first proper flashlight.
> 
> Oh, and how does the brightness compare to my brothers tle-5
> 
> Thanks in advance for all the help guys!
> 
> >Lightz



Sorry = More info PLZ / Model + DX item no ...


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



bessiebenny said:


> The ones Matt reviewed are from this ebay shop - stores.ebay.com/cwtco
> Just search for RCR123A and you will find them. Cheap but non-protected.
> 
> *UPDATE*
> - No idea why. Just out of impulse, I bought MTE SF-22 SSC P7-D-SXO 5-Mode just then.
> - It looks mean and is one of the cheapest SSC P7 lights. Also is using the latest P7 D bin.
> - I also ordered it as it looks like it might be able to tail stand. (Which I really like to have)
> - Ordered some Ultrafire 18650's as well. (Cheapest protected 18650 - sku 19624)
> - Anyways, I will do a full review when received. =)



Yeah , I got my MTE and then a few days later they get all these new models ,  . If only I had waited a week . 

Those Ultrafires = Cheap but good , I like the two I have very much .
I got a pair of = sku.21474 , I had a fever today , so didn't get to test them . 
But one of these days ....

I also got me a Charger sku.4151 , I have a very interesting mod in mind ...


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



bessiebenny said:


> My view - Looks interesting indeed. Well, for the price at least. But it's definitely not a Cree. That's a generic LED. For that price, I guess the reflector would be plastic. Front lense is probably plastic also. No o-rings I would expect either. Looking at the beam shots, it might be a two mode though. btw, I'm more interested in that orange light which they accidently added. =P



Its Cheap , I hope its 2 mode , if it pumps enough mA , I might just pop a Cree P4 or a SSC P4 in there . 





Hmmm what kind of LED is that ?


----------



## Lightz

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Sorry i was not more specific. The flashlight in question is a romisen rc-g2 sku 3607.

I would love to learn how to make it more efficient but i dont know how many Ma the driver is. Is this related to the battery draw?

Thanks for the help

>Lights


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: newbie questions about romisen rc-g2 and Ma*



Lightz said:


> Oh, and how does the brightness compare to my brothers tle-5



I would estimate the RC-G2 at around 40 - 50 lumens (I use a lithium primary in mine). The overall output looks similar to the TLE-5 dropin to me, but the RC-G2 throws better. I'm only going by eye, but there isn't a huge difference.


----------



## Lightz

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Thanks for the imput guys!

Can anyone explain mA or tell me how to increase efficiency?

>Lightz


----------



## seaside

*Re: newbie questions about romisen rc-g2 and Ma*



Lightz said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Im new here. I would really appreciate it if you could help me out a little here.
> 
> I have read several reports that the romisen draws 1600 Ma from a battery. Where does it all go before it reaches the LED? is the max for an LED not supposed to be 20Ma.
> 
> Also is there anything i can do to make tthe runtime on the romisen longer? And dont most flashilights run at 350-700 Ma? Im really confused.
> 
> P.S i ordered it from DX a few days ago so it will be a while before i get it. This is my first proper flashlight.
> 
> Oh, and how does the brightness compare to my brothers tle-5
> 
> Thanks in advance for all the help guys!
> 
> >Lightz


 
Assuming the romisen you refered is using one AA battery like RC-A3, yes, it does pull 1600mA from the battery. Let's do the simple math from there.
1.5V * 1600mA (1.6A) = 2.4W of power is being sent to the LED thru LED driver. LED needs arround 3.7V or up, so there's a driver b/w battery and LED to step the voltage up from 1.5V to arround 3.7V. 2.4W means 0.65A or 650mA at 3.7V. LED is going to see 650mA if the driver efficiency is 100%. But you know no circuit has 100% efficiency, right? The driver itself consumes power to do the job. Typical AA driver efficiency is rather low, usually arround 50~60%. So, LED is gonna get 300~350mA at 3.7V. And, as battery drains, LED is gonna get less power, so it gets dimmed. Typically what you can expect from 1AA flashlight is about 1 hour of bright light and couple hours of dimmed light.


----------



## Lightz

*Re: newbie questions about romisen rc-g2 and Ma*

Thank-you all very much for your help.I really appreciate it. 

Just a couple more questions

will replacing the standard P2 with a Q5 or R2

a) significantly increase brightness

or 

b) significantly decrease runtime

and the second is 

Are eneloop rechargeable batteries the best Nimhs to use.


----------



## deefed

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

I love your reviews and am just learning. When you report throw and lightbox, what do these mean so that I may compare your ratings?


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: newbie questions about romisen rc-g2 and Ma*



Lightz said:


> will replacing the standard P2 with a Q5 or R2
> 
> a) significantly increase brightness
> 
> or
> 
> b) significantly decrease runtime
> 
> and the second is
> 
> Are eneloop rechargeable batteries the best Nimhs to use.



IIRC it will increase brightness by about 30% and shouldn't effect runtime significantly. Shiningbeam.com sell a Q5 version of the RC-G2.

Eneloops are one of the best LSD NiMHs (LSD = low self-discharge, meaning they hold a charge when not in use much longer than ordinary NiMHs). I use GP Recyko which are also good.


----------



## Lightz

*Re: newbie questions about romisen rc-g2 and Ma*

Thanks a lot!

>Lightz


----------



## Lightz

*Re: newbie questions about romisen rc-g2 and Ma*

Just one more quick question. HaHa. I bet u guys are fed up.

My question is 

1) i just looked up creeswebsite and they say the R2 is over 100 lumens at 350 Ma. Is this real or just marketing hype.

Thanks

>Lightz


----------



## Benson

*Re: newbie questions about romisen rc-g2 and Ma*



Lightz said:


> Just one more quick question. HaHa. I bet u guys are fed up.
> 
> My question is
> 
> 1) i just looked up creeswebsite and they say the R2 is over 100 lumens at 350 Ma. Is this real or just marketing hype.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> >Lightz


That's real -- manufacturers _have _to put real data on their datasheets, as customers will reject parts falling (more than a certain %) outside datasheet values as defective.

But lumens out of the emitter is not lumens out of the flashlight, of course; reflector and lens losses decrease the flashlights output by up to 30% or so.


BTW, it's mA, not Ma. M means mega-, m means milli-, and A means ampere, a means are (an obsolete area unit), so "350 Ma" actually refers to an area slightly larger than the state of Maryland, not to a current value...


----------



## wellfedirishman

*DealExtreme TrustFire SSC P7-C Dead on Arrival!*

Hi All,

I am a long time reader here, and have purchased a couple of lights (Fenix T1 and Maglite 3C LED upgrade) based on reviews here.

I just purchaesd a TrustFire SSC P7-C from Deal Extreme and it was Dead On Arrival. On installing 2 verified fully charged 18650s and powering on for the first time, it flickered for a second and then there was a burning smell and some smoke. Smells like a burned capacitor.

Has anyone else had a problem with these lights? What kind of response did you get from DealExtreme? I filed a complaint with PayPal (DOA product) and contacted DealExtreme yesterday.

What are the chances of either getting a replacement or getting my $ back?


----------



## Lightz

*Re: newbie questions about romisen rc-g2 and Ma*

Thanks everyone for the quick replies and help!

Its made my life so much easier.

>Lightz


----------



## Lighthouse one

*Re: DealExtreme TrustFire SSC P7-C Dead on Arrival!*

Deal Extreme will take your light back...no problem. It is a bit of a pain..they will eventually give you an address in Florida to mail it to, and credit your mail cost too. Takes just a bit to get through the process...


----------



## PhantomPhoton

*Re: DealExtreme TrustFire SSC P7-C Dead on Arrival!*

deleted due to thread merge.


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



deefed said:


> I love your reviews and am just learning. When you report throw and lightbox, what do these mean so that I may compare your ratings?


 
I've now added more info in my main post regarding some terms. =)

_Throw_ = Firing the center of the hotspot directly at the light meter sensor from 1m away using fully charged batteries. (after initial ~1 minute peak)
_Lightbox_ = My own cardboard box where I fire light in through a hole and measure the lux reading inside after 1 minute. (no direct light tot the sensor)


----------



## seaside

*Re: DealExtreme TrustFire SSC P7-C Dead on Arrival!*



wellfedirishman said:


> Hi All,
> 
> Has anyone else had a problem with these lights? What kind of response did you get from DealExtreme? I filed a complaint with PayPal (DOA product) and contacted DealExtreme yesterday.
> 
> What are the chances of either getting a replacement or getting my $ back?


 
This is why you should ask question here or read articles in DX before you try something. DX usually will replace faulty unit, give you store credit or ask you buy another at discounted price when you do not want to send the faulty unit back to them, depends on the situation. They have their own set of instruction for the customers to follow. It shouldn't be that difficult for customers do that. But their system won't allow them do that when you already filed complaint with paypal. They will ask you withdraw your complaint before they start process thier A/S.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

?X has some new Ultrafires , the A40 ... 1xCR123A Q5 
I was considering the A20 ... but the A40 is cheaper ... 

Also a Tank007 M10 ... ?


----------



## Albinoni

*Romisen RCK4 Probs*

A while back I bought a Romisen RCK4 LED torch here in Perth Australia for quite a bargain price. This torch uses a CREE led and can run either on 2xCR123's or 3xAAA's by using a converter.

The torch has been working very well till last week when I noticed that the LED was slowly starting to dim and get weak. Normally when the sign of this happens to me it means the batts are becoming weak and about to die, so new batts needed. Anyhow I went to install 2x brand new batts today (CR123's x 2) and the LED was still weak and not fully bright as what its meant to be, infact I tried 4 sets of batts and still no luck, LED still stays on but dim and not the usual output as what its meant to be.

Any suggestions ?


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: Romisen RCK4 Probs*



Albinoni said:


> Any suggestions ?



It may be as simple as cleaning the contacts with contact cleaner, if you haven't already tried this.


----------



## Slash5

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



bessiebenny said:


> - I've been looking for something new and found these two that looks "interesting".
> - This and This. Although the AA flashlight interests me more, it's only 1-mode. So I think I'll get the 3-mode 3AAA version. (if I order it, I'll let you all know)


 
The AA flashlight SKU 7690 is huge for a AA light. It's bigger than a P60 host - 6 1/2 inches long and over 1" in diameter.
Also, the two sets of dimensions given don't agree by quite a bit.
Something is wrong there - I'd be surprised if you got the flashlight you were expecting.

The AAA flashlight is direct drive - I thought that direct drive 3 AAA flashlights were something to be avoided?


----------



## BurlyEd

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



Benson said:


> I have one, and really like the tight beam, but it isn't running at full power -- it seemed much dimmer than it should be on high, and I checked tailcap current at only 0.4A on an 18650... Can anyone confirm whether this is normal for these, or do I have a defective driver?
> 
> Either way, I'm still up in the air over whether to just replace the driver, or try an MC-E instead -- that deep reflector gives a tight enough beam that the spread from an MC-E wouldn't hurt it much for practical use, but at the same time, maxing out the throw would be fun, and even cheaper/easier.
> 
> I'm also wondering if I can find some other light whose head/bezel threads match the c3087's head/body joint -- the way the emitter is recessed when you take the head off makes for a pretty nice flood beam, if only it had a bezel and lens for protection.



I finally found my old meter and and made a few readings, replaced its original 9v battery and repeated the readings with same results:

Flashlight: UltraFire C308 Cree Q5-WC 2-Mode 230-Lumen LED (1*18650/2*CR123A/3*AAA) DX SKU 20127

Meter TENMA 72-4025, about 12yr old
Measurements at tailcap - both amps and voltage

Battery: Trustfire Blue 18650 2500mAh 3.7v Protected
Measurement: v=4.16, Hi=.51amp=1.84watts, Lo=.05a =.18w.

Battery: 3*Duraloop AAA
Measurement: 4.00v, Hi=.20a=1.20w, Lo=.03a=.12w

Battery: 2xWF CR123A 3.0V Primary Lithium Battery DX SKU 5639
Measurement: 6.13v, Hi=.75a=4.6w, Lo=.08a=.48w

Battery: 2x16340 gray 880ma TF 3.6v Protected
(Note: These batteries are so long that I can not screw the tailcap switch on, but I made the measurements anyway).
Measurement: 7.99v Hi=.57a=4.55w, Lo=.09a=.72w.

I cannot explain how the 3v primaries use as much power as the 4v rechargables, but that is what I measured!

There is a review Posted by  zombieman  on 4/12/2009 on DX:
"Very Nice Light. I'm a Police officer and its a safety issue not to have a good bright dependable flashlight. I bought this light as a test product to compare it to the stinger LED light that me and most other officers carry. When I first opened the package I was impressed with the construction of the light. Its good solid construction and has dual o-rings in each fitting. The switch feels solid and had two modes (full power and Half power). This flashlight blows away the Streamlight stinger LED when it comes to output! However Streamlight claims that the stinger LED will last 3 hours or so on full power when this light will only last 1 hour. I plan on using this light as a backup light on my duty belt. I'm more than likely going to buy another one. I also will post videos soon comparing this light to the stinger LED."

My C308 has single "tupperware" colored o-rings except at the lense it has a GITD ring. There is room for second o-rings on mine, but not included.

Your "0.4A on an 18650" and my 0.51a are far below the "1000mA Current Output, Digitally Regulated Driver Circuitry" specs. My .75a reading with cheap primaries are a bit closer.


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



BurlyEd said:


> Battery: Trustfire Blue 18650 2500mAh 3.7v Protected
> Measurement: v=4.16, *Hi=.51amp*=1.84watts, Lo=.05a =.18w.
> 
> Battery: 2xWF CR123A 3.0V Primary Lithium Battery DX SKU 5639
> Measurement: 6.13v, Hi=.75a=4.6w, Lo=.08a=.48w
> 
> Battery: 2x16340 gray 880ma TF 3.6v Protected
> (Note: These batteries are so long that I can not screw the tailcap switch on, but I made the measurements anyway).
> Measurement: 7.99v Hi=.57a=4.55w, Lo=.09a=.72w.
> 
> I cannot explain how the 3v primaries use as much power as the 4v rechargables, but that is what I measured!



That is strange... I wonder if the 18650 protection circuit is causing this? or perhaps there is something else defective with the cell..???

Curious... can you install that 18650 into another high current light and see if its current draw also tops out at .51A?


----------



## BurlyEd

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



kramer5150 said:


> That is strange... I wonder if the 18650 protection circuit is causing this? or perhaps there is something else defective with the cell..???
> 
> Curious... can you install that 18650 into another high current light and see if its current draw also tops out at .51A?



Flashlight: UltraFire 501B with DX MC-E 3 Mode Drop-in
Battery: Same Trustfire Blue 18650 2500mAh 3.7v Protected
Measurement: volts=4.13, Hi=1.83amps=7.56watts, Med=.67amps=2.77watts

Flashlight: UltraFire 502B with DX R2 5 Mode with Memory
Battery: Same Trustfire Blue 18650 2500mAh 3.7v Protected
Measurement: v=4.13, Hi=.47a=1.94w, Med=.24a=.99w, Lo=.10a=.41w

Flashlight: Solarforce L2 5 Mode R2 (No Memory)
Battery: Same Trustfire Blue 18650 2500mAh 3.7v Protected
Measurement: v=4.13, Hi=.99a=4.09w, Med=.37a=1.52w, Lo=.06a=.25w

Extra:

Flashlight: UltraFire 502B with DX R2 5 Mode with Memory
Battery: 2x16340 gray 880ma TF 3.6v Protected
Measurement: v=8.13, Hi=.60a=4.88w, Med=.30a=2.44w, Lo=.06a=.49w

Now what we need is for someone to add their meter readings plus Lumens and Runtimes for all their interesting flashlights/batteries/modes.
I can add results for AKOray K-106 with different batteries if anyone is interested.
I have also started testing my TA30, but that does not fall in Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlight category.
I think Solarforce L2 should be included here, though.

Your mileage may vary.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Batts = 
Ultrafire Protected 2400mA 
Ultrafire Protected 3000mA 
Trustfire 2500mA 
ANd generic Blue 2200mA 
Have 2 of each batt to test . Only testing on high as the rest is regulated . 

Solarforce L2 R2 3.7-4.2v 5 mode 

Ultrafire Protected 2400mA 1.47A and 1.46A 
Ultrafire protected 3000mA 1.51A and 1.43A 
Trustfire 2500mA 1.54A and 1.62A 
Blue 2200mA 1.48A and 1.76A 

Solarforce L2 R2 8.4v 5 mode 

Ultrafire Protected 2400mA 1.1A and 1A 
Ultrafire Protected 3000mA 1.05A and 1.1A
Trustfire 2500mA 1.1A and 1.1A
Blue 2200mA 1.07A and o.92mA

Ultrafire WF-502B R2 8.4v 5 mode 

UF P-2400mA o.88mA and o.91mA 
UF P-3000mA o.86mA and o.82mA
TF 2500mA o.89mA and o.89mA 
Blue 2200mA o.98mA and o.87mA 

SSC P7 

UF P-2400mA 2.06A and 2.03A
UF P-3000mA 1.9A and 1.72A
TF 2500mA 2.18A and 2.16A
Blue 2200mA 1.96A and 2.32A 

Also made my own pill ... P60 drop in . 

Q5 with 5 mode driver : sku.6190 @ *x if your interested 
All batts = 1.03A yes , all did the same Amps .

Matt


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Seems to be a lot of fuss going on about the Solarforce T4 - I found it for sale on Flea bay today .. $60 USD 

But then I thought I had seen the concept before --- 

SAIK SA-15 2 modes 
3W Cree 1 Mode
Romisen RC-X5 1-M
MX Power MC-600 1-M
Sacredfire NF-007 

If you need a cheaper fix


----------



## Albinoni

*Re: Romisen RCK4 Probs*



Zatoichi said:


> It may be as simple as cleaning the contacts with contact cleaner, if you haven't already tried this.



When you say contacts are you refering to both the + and - contact in the torch i.e the one in the tail cap and the one on the bottom of the torch inside. 

I didnt know that a dirty contact can cause this problem.

I sometimes think if the LED is wearing out, but could not be because the torch is relatively new, not even 6 months old.


----------



## Benson

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



BurlyEd said:


> I cannot explain how the 3v primaries use as much power as the 4v rechargables, but that is what I measured!


Probably it's regulated there, so it pulls more current to make up for the low voltage.



> Your "0.4A on an 18650" and my 0.51a are far below the "1000mA Current Output, Digitally Regulated Driver Circuitry" specs. My .75a reading with cheap primaries are a bit closer.


Yeah, looks like it's out of regulation on 1 cell, but regulated off 2 cells (whether 3V or 3.7V). Which is really annoying, considering the _much_ better energy content of an 18650 over 2x16340, but apparently normal for this light.

Thanks for checking.


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: Romisen RCK4 Probs*



Albinoni said:


> When you say contacts are you refering to both the + and - contact in the torch i.e the one in the tail cap and the one on the bottom of the torch inside.
> 
> I didnt know that a dirty contact can cause this problem.



It's a possibility, I've heard of it causing lights to be significantly dimmer. Enough crap on the contacts could cause it not to light up at all. I clean mine quite often, and it's surprising how quickly the positive contact blackens on some of them. If yours appear clean it's probably not that, but it won't hurt to give it a try.

*Edit* and any other accessible areas that make contact to make the circuit.


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



Slash5 said:


> The AAA flashlight is direct drive - I thought that direct drive 3 AAA flashlights were something to be avoided?


 
Yeah. I don't like 3AAA flashlights. AAA is too small in capacity and needing to charge 3 batts is more bothersome.
I just liked the shape of it. haha. I know what to expect in terms of it's light engine. (or lack of) So I decided not to get it.
Instead, I bought the new MTE SSC P7-D 18650 light. It should arrive hopefully next week sometime. =)


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

* Reposting here to link it in the main thread as a direct link.
* I've given this light away so unfortunately I cannot re-test. =(
* I will see if I can get it back. Also will correct any dead links.


*★★★★★★ Romisen RC-I3 CR123A/1AA/2AA/14500 **LINK* (Reviewed MAY 1st 2008)
*Throw:* *400* lux (1AA NiMh) *900* lux (2AA NiMh) *1400* lux (1 x RCR123A / 14500)
*OLD Lightbox:* *25* lux (1AA NiMh) *60 *lux (2AA NiMh) *100 *lux (1 x RCR123A / 14500)
*Intro*
- This is a very versatile light that supports many kinds of batteries.
- In 2AA mode, it feels much like the RC-N3 due to thicker RCR barrel.
- In 1AA/RCR mode, it is has a similar look/size as MTE SSC P4 AA light.
- It is available in black or silver finish.
*Build Quality*
- It came with a yellow Cree with 4 wires. So it's at least a P4. (Should be silver now - APR 2009)
- Textured aluminium reflector. Glass lense. No defects to note.
- Comes with a side clip which can be removed. It's a very tight clip.
- Easy to press 1-mode reverse clicky. Cannot tail stand. 
- Easy to replace the clicky with GITD or Orange / Blue ones.
- Threads are really sharp and not very big. Lube / wd40 is recommended.
- The extension barrel is very thick and solid. 1AA barrel is much thinner.
- Has spring on the tail switch side but not on the driver side.
- Tail part has a spacer which allows AA to fit and not rattle inside.
- It also allows the RCR to not slide all the way down towards the tail.
*Light Output*
- Beam is clean. No ugliness to it. No donut hole even at close range.
- Tint was neutral. Nice floody hotspot. Good general purpose output.
- In 1AA, the light is quite dim. Maybe good for those who like it dim.
- In 2AA and with lithiums, the light is quite bright. 
- It's like having 3 modes of brightness! 1AA=Low 2AA=Med RCR=High
*In Use*
- In single AA/RCR mode, it is very portable and output is still useful.
- With 1 or 2AA, the light has a nice long flat output runtime.
- With 1RCR, the light is bright but has direct-driven-like output curve. 
- This light is so versatile in battery type! 1AA/2AA/14500/1RCR.
- Battery is replaced by unscrewing the head and not the tail.
- It does not get hot in any battery configuration. 
*Final Notes*
- I give it 6 stars coz of its super cheap price and superb versatility.
- You won't find much better in this price range for such versatility!

*◎* *Measurements*
- It pulls TBA from 1 x 1.2v NiMh AA.
- It pulls TBA from 2 x 1.2v NiMh AA.
- It pulls TBA from 1 x RCR or 14500.


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

* Reposting here to link it in the main thread as a direct link.
* I've given this light away so unfortunately I cannot re-test. =(
* I will see if I can get it back. Also will correct any dead links.

*★★★★★★Romisen RC-N3 CR123A/2AA **LINK* (Reviewed Mar 27th 2008)
*Throw:* *1100* lux (2 x AA NiMh @ 2.8v) *1900* lux (1 x RCR123A @ 4.2v)
*OLD Lightbox:* *50* lux (2 x AA NiMh @ 2.8v) *100* lux (1 x RCR123A @ 4.2v)
- It has a new silver-core Cree emitter with 4 wires = minimum P4-bin.
- Has a glass lense with textured aluminium reflector. Hence less throw.
- Reflector is properly screwed in to the head piece. Can be taken out.
- Brightness is difference for when using RCR or 2AA. RCR is brighter.
- Wide smooth bright spill. Blended soft round hotspot.
- Can see a hole in the centre of the hotspot at 10 inches or closer.
- Light tint is white with a slight feeling of being warmer side. Neutral.
- Feels darn solid. Especially in 2AA form. Feels better than WF-606A imo.
- O-ring in all the right places. One in front of glass lense also.
- Strong-feeling side clip. Can be removed easily by unscrewing head.
- Nothing is glued. All threads are good. Lubing recommended though.
- Forward GITD clicky. Easy to press. Doesn't tail stand in stock form.
- But putting an extra 0-ring inside the switch can make it tail stand.
- Good quality switch module. In its own aluminium pill. Easily taken out.
- In RCR form, it's much smaller than Mini 3W Cree. More like Gree Cree.
- In RCR form, it feels very nice. Expensive. Best feeling single RCR light!
- In 2AA form, it's about the length of the WF-606A with thicker barrel.
- In 2AA form, it does not get hot at all. It stays cool all the way through.
- With 2AA, it gives 3+ hours of full output then "useful" output for another 3 hours!
- With single RCR battery, it seems to run as if it is direct driven but bit longer.
- I give it 6 stars as it's cheap, has 2 forms and is of superb quality!
- But if you want a brighter 2AA light, get the WF-606A (reviewed).
 
*UPDATE* 
1. You can get the ~50% brighter Q5 versions from Shiningbeam!
2. RC-N3 from DX are now multi-mode (not single) as of Jan 09.
On 2xAA or 3v CR123A, it is Hi > Off > Med > Off > Strobe > Off. (3 mode)
On 3.6v RCR123A it is Hi > Off > *Hi *> Off > Strobe > Off. (2 mode)

*◎* *Measurements*
- It pulls 0.41A from 2 x 1.2v AA NiMh @ 1.4v each
- It pulls 0.55A from 1 x 3.6v RCR123A @ 4.15v
- It pulls 0.41A from 1 x 3.0v CR123A Primary @ 3.15v


----------



## BurlyEd

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Update - Both the RC-I3 and the RC-N3 from DX have 3 modes (Hi>Med>Strobe) as of Jan 09.

RC-I3 still has a reverse clicky, RC-N3 still has a forward clicky. 

The combination of RC-N3's 3 Modes and a forward clicky are strange, but it allows you to repeatedly half press to select desired mode, then commit with a click. After that, it takes 2 clicks to change modes.


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



BurlyEd said:


> Update - Both the RC-I3 and the RC-N3 from DX have 3 modes (Hi>Med>Strobe) as of Jan 09.
> 
> RC-I3 still has a reverse clicky, RC-N3 still has a forward clicky.


 
Thanks for letting me know. I will update both old reviews with that info. =)


----------



## funkychateau

*Comments on Akoray K-106 Review*

Several comments:

1. Lanyard attachment: If you remove the wire pocket clip (by unscrewing the tail cap), you merely place the small-diameter loop of the lanyard in the same groove. When you replace the tail cap, the loop exits the two small holes where the clip formerly came out. Very clean installation, with no knots showing! Plus, using the lanyard instead of the pocket clip is one "quick fix" for the intensity variation you pointed out in your review (see comment #2)!

2. Inconsistent connections and/or varying intensity at turn-on: This is due to an iffy ground at the switch. There is a machined ledge inside the light's body, where a metal strap exiting the plastic switch housing must ground. This connection's integrity is dependent on the housing being forced into the ledge by pressure from screwing down the tail cap. On my light, the tail cap did not screw down quite far enough to reliably compress this connection. My "quick fix" was to remove the wire pocket clip, as this allowed the tail cap to screw down just a tiny bit deeper. If I wanted to retain the wire clip, I'd probably try adding a small solder blob to the metal strap. But, I prefer the lanyard (see comment #1) to the pocket clip, so my "quick fix" is the final solution for me.

3. Additional Programming Features: You can toggle on or off a "Li-ion low-voltage-protection" mode by quick-pressing the switch three times. The light will blink once to indicate a toggle from protection on to protection off, or twice for the opposite toggle. This allows use of unprotected 14500 cells.

4. Runtime issues on 14500 batteries: I believe what happened here (intensity switching during test) was due to a combination of the internal Li-ion undervoltage protection (see comment #3) and a bad switch ground (see comment #2). The light's protection circuit automatically dims the LED when the battery voltage (under load) first drops below a threshold. If you had the light on high, with a bad switch ground, this additional series resistance may have dropped the detected voltage below the threshold. After performing the "quick fix" (see comment #2), I no longer have this issue.

This product is one of my favorite cheap-Chinese flashlights, but if you don't fix the switch ground the flickering and inconsistency can be annoying.


----------



## Forgetful

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



oldrock said:


> +2 akoray AA. The programming makes it fit your needs exactly. Also very flexible since you can run it on alk, nimh and lithium.


Well I went ahead and ordered one. Seems that everyone here has good things to say.


----------



## Deathyak

*My order*

(necropost i know)

I ordered the Akoray. Its freaking bright and really tiny. [No problems with flickering!] Ability to use AA is a plus, but I'm using 14500s. With unprotected batteries and the cheapest charger, it came to $31.29. I'm cool with that.

Being new to cool flashlights i didn't understand quite how to press the button. So instead of pressing it 6 times to enter programing mode, i actually pressed it 3 times. Anyways, I have it down now. I programmed it to high-seizure mode-low. Battery protection is enabled for the unprotected cells I bought. Haven't run them all the way down yet to find out if it works.

I wish I had something to compare it to. Even on the lowest setting, this is still brighter than a standard bulb mini-maglight (2xAA).

A friend pointed it in his eyes and said offhand that its probably around 170 lumens. (DX lists it as 200 so I guess its about right)


----------



## Gunner12

*Re: My order*

It's hard to tell lumen output by staring into the light. A better comparison would be a ceiling bounce test.

I'm glad you like the light!


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: Comments on Akoray K-106 Review*



funkychateau said:


> 1. Lanyard attachment: If you remove the wire pocket clip (by unscrewing the tail cap), you merely place the small-diameter loop of the lanyard in the same groove.


 
Good idea. One thing I worry is that the lanyard will snap off over time as those 2 "slits" are quite small and sharp. Maybe you can file the holes a bit bigger and smooth the edges out to avoid this.



funkychateau said:


> 2. Inconsistent connections and/or varying intensity at turn-on: This is due to an iffy ground at the switch. There is a machined ledge inside the light's body, where a metal strap exiting the plastic switch housing must ground.


 
I don't fully understand. 

The spring gets compressed when there is a battery inside. So the spring will always be compressed into the rear contact of the switch module. The white plastic ring cover that's around the spring is just there to keep everything together but does not improve any contact. I've measured the resistence with the switch module byitself and also while it is screwed into the tube. Both instances, the resistance was negligeable.

The only thing I can come up with is that maybe the contact beween the battery tube and the outer negative ring of the light engine pill is bad. I will have to play with it more but I just can't get a consistent "high" output with this light. Maybe it's just my sample that is bad. =(

btw, after I pulled apart everything and assembled it back, it's now BRIGHT again. Hopefully this time, it'll last. 



funkychateau said:


> 3. Additional Programming Features: You can toggle on or off a "Li-ion low-voltage-protection" mode by quick-pressing the switch three times. The light will blink once to indicate a toggle from protection on to protection off, or twice for the opposite toggle. This allows use of unprotected 14500 cells.


 
Yeah. I found out this after I wrote the review but forgot to update the review. Will do that soon. =)



funkychateau said:


> This product is one of my favorite cheap-Chinese flashlights, but if you don't fix the switch ground the flickering and inconsistency can be annoying.


 
Yup. It sure is a very good light. Hence I gave it the best rating. =)
For what it costs and what it is, there really isn't much competition.


----------



## funkychateau

*Re: Comments on Akoray K-106 Review*



funkychateau said:


> 2. Inconsistent connections and/or varying intensity at turn-on: This is due to an iffy ground at the switch. There is a machined ledge inside the light's body, where a metal strap exiting the plastic switch housing must ground. This connection's integrity is dependent on the housing being forced into the ledge by pressure from screwing down the tail cap. On my light, the tail cap did not screw down quite far enough to reliably compress this connection. My "quick fix" was to remove the wire pocket clip, as this allowed the tail cap to screw down just a tiny bit deeper. If I wanted to retain the wire clip, I'd probably try adding a small solder blob to the metal strap. But, I prefer the lanyard (see comment #1) to the pocket clip, so my "quick fix" is the final solution for me.


 


bessiebenny said:


> I don't fully understand.
> 
> The spring gets compressed when there is a battery inside. So the spring will always be compressed into the rear contact of the switch module. The white plastic ring cover that's around the spring is just there to keep everything together but does not improve any contact. I've measured the resistence with the switch module byitself and also while it is screwed into the tube. Both instances, the resistance was negligeable.
> 
> The only thing I can come up with is that maybe the contact beween the battery tube and the outer negative ring of the light engine pill is bad. I will have to play with it more but I just can't get a consistent "high" output with this light. Maybe it's just my sample that is bad. =(
> 
> btw, after I pulled apart everything and assembled it back, it's now BRIGHT again. Hopefully this time, it'll last.


 
My light's problem wasn't the spring-to-switch connection, it was the return path, the switch-to-body-tube. I'll try to remember to get a picture this weekend, to illustrate what I was talking about. It's a flat metal strap, exiting the switch body and bent at about a 90-degree angle, if I remember correctly. It's been a month or so since I had this light apart.

Making resistance measurements through the switch doesn't give a good indication in this case, because installing the battery (and compressing the spring) is what exacerbates the grounding problem. With a battery in place, the spring is forcing the switch housing back and away from the machined ledge, and helping the connection go intermittent.

An easy way to isolate the switch problem from something in the light engine (or elsewhere) is to wiggle the switch-button cover while the light is on. Look for any small change in light output. You have to keep the light perfectly still while doing this, or you can't tell beam movement from beam flickering. Best procedure is to clamp the light to a table, shining on the wall, while slightly pushing and wiggling the switch cover. This wiggles the switch body inside the light, without actually toggling the switch or moving the light. If the light flickers or changes intensity at all, check the grounding.

BTW, my AAA Akoray had the same problem, but the fix is different. Its switch body is aluminum, not plastic, and the outside of the switch body is what grounds on that internal ledge. So, you can just remove the switch and carefully add aluminum foil as a gap-filler. My AAA Akoray is the "old" version with the recessed switch, and I've read that they are now shipping with protruding switches, so the internal design may also have changed.

Have you tested DX's CR123 version of this light? I don't own that one.


----------



## tedshred

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Just got my RC N3 and my 6 year old loves the strobe!


----------



## patrickbateman

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

New AAA & 10440 Ultrafire

http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=8324

Looks like a clone of the A6... http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15644

But chrome or real stainless steel this time ?


----------



## funkychateau

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



patrickbateman said:


> New AAA & 10440 Ultrafire
> 
> http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=8324


 
We have a standing joke here at work when discussing our flashlight specs .... is that "regular" lumens or "Chinese" lumens?

230 "regular" lumens and 90-minute runtime is no way compatible with a 1.5-watt-hour battery, so either these lumens are the egg-noodle variety or someone's stopwatch is running really fast 

BTW, the text specifications say 1.2-1.5 volts, but one of the pictures shows a Li-ion battery. Wonder which is correct?

And obviously the thing is not "direct-drive", as claimed in the specs, or it wouldn't work at all on NiMH or alkaline cells. That's the scary thing about buying this stuff - it's like a box of chocolates! Even if someone else gets one and reports on the results, they may change the product dramatically before the next guy orders.

But I love all this KD and DX stuff ... their makers take the shotgun approach, and try a little bit of everything. Sometimes they hit a home run, like with the Akoray K-106.


----------



## patrickbateman

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



funkychateau said:


> We have a standing joke here at work when discussing our flashlight specs .... is that "regular" lumens or "Chinese" lumens?
> 
> 230 "regular" lumens and 90-minute runtime is no way compatible with a 1.5-watt-hour battery, so either these lumens are the egg-noodle variety or someone's stopwatch is running really fast
> 
> BTW, the text specifications say 1.2-1.5 volts, but one of the pictures shows a Li-ion battery. Wonder which is correct?



Well, nothing new here.

Driver seems to be the same than the one from the ultrafire A6 ( same specs), so i assume it does take 10440.


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

*UPDATE:*
- Just received the MTE SF-22 SSC P7-D-SXO 5-Mode from DX!

First 5 minute impressions:
- Bit longer and bulkier than the usual 18650 flashlights. But still light weight.
- It's bright! But not as bright as Romisen RC-T6. (using 18650)
- I expected it to be brighter than RC-T6. It isn't. Disappointed. =(
- Average quality threads. Lubed well however. Reverse clicky switch.
- Has last mode memory. Turns back on the last mode. So it can be used like a 1-mode sorta. 
- Low mode is quite low! Only 40 lux in my new light box. Around 30 lumens or so.
- Wide blended hotspot. Nice floody light. Not a thrower.
- Unfortunately, it does not tail stand fully flat. The rubber clicky sticks out enough to not make it stable.
- First 10 minutes, it doesn't get that hot. But it gets VERY hot after about 20 minutes. Expected really.
- Overall so far, it's not bad. Nothing spectacular though.

*New lightbox* = 1150 lux (RC-T6 with 2 x 18650 does 1500 lux )
*Throw @ 1m* = 4500 lux

More detailed review will be posted once I try it out a bit more.


----------



## mmbeller191

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Re: MTE SF-22 P7-D

You got that light pretty fast for DX! I have had my eye on it as well. Would you say it is brighter than the Aurora AK-P7 you tested before? If this is really a P7-D led in it then I would say this light seems like a great deal. Looking forward to more info from your full review.


----------



## bessiebenny

*MTE SF-22 SSC P7-D-SXO 5-mode Review*

-- Mine is now officially dead. Driver died after running the run-time test. Doh! --


*★★★★ MTE SF-22 SSC P7-D-SXO 5-mode **DX* (Posted on Apr 25th 2009)
*Throw @ 1m: 4500 lux *(high) TBA *lux *(low)TBA *lux *(low) (1 x 18650 @ 4.15v) 
*New Lightbox: 1150 lux *(high)TBA *lux *(low) *36 lux *(low) (1 x 18650 @ 4.15v) 

New lightbox results to compare for now: 
- Nitecore D10 = 250 lux (on high)
- Fenix E01 = 14 lux
- Romisen RC-G2 Q5 = 120 lux 
- Romisen RC-F4 Q5 = 440 lux
- Eastward YJ-XAQ5 = 500 lux (on high)
- Blaze 1Watt = 180 lux (on high) 100 lux (on low)
- Romisen RC-T6 = 1480 lux (2 x 18650 on high)

*Intro*
- It's a cheap 18650 light from MTE with 5 modes that uses a SSC P7-D bin emitter.
*Build Quality*
- Simple and OK. Nothing ooutstandingly good or bad.
- Aluminium textured reflector. O-ring for the glass lense. But this o-ring snaps the first time you un-screw the crown. =(
- Tail end to switch contact is not done through the threads but via flat-end contact which is better.
- Light pill seems to be made of aluminium. SSC P7 emitter is on a round base and is mounted via 2 small screws.
- So it's very easy to mod later and replace the emitter if needed. (Same with the driver, it's easy to get to)
- Heatsink compound is used below the round base. Seems to have good contact with the pill.
- In terms of heat management design, it's not the best still. 
- The majority of the aluminum pill does not touch any part of the body. (Only 1/3 touches the body)
- I highly recommend some heat sink compound to be put on the threads between pill/body.
- Head portion has lots of fins. But doesn't do much in terms of heatsinking until it's too late really.
*Light Output*
- BRIGHT. Well, it was. Until it became faulty. (In 1 day)
- After I ran the below runtime test, i think it damaged either the driver. (So I can't do any more output tests...)
- As it now will not switch between modes. It's permanently stuck on Medium. =(
- I'll probably need to get a new driver or mod it into a direct drive.
- Anyways, while it was working, it was very bright. I would guess around 400 lumens.
- Romisen RC-T6 is brighter than this. (And far more reliable it seems)
- Light tint is slightly on the warm side with mine. But this is luck of the draw I think.
- In low output, it is about 30 lumens or so. So it's quite low although not super low.
- It has a very clean beam as expected from SSC emitter. Very nicely blended 'soft' beam.
- Hotspot is soft and wide. It's no thrower that's for sure. Nice floody light.
- Overall, in terms of light output per dollar, it's excellent. 
*In Use*
- 5 modes. High-Med-Low-Strobe-SoS
- It has last mode memory so turns back on the mode it turned off last. (If it was on for more than ~2 seconds)
- So it's quite good. It can be used like a single-mode light in most circumstances.
- Doesn't tail stand in stock form. The blue rubber clicky (non GITD) sticks out a tiny bit at the end.
- It doesn't get hot for first 10 minutes. But after adbout 15 to 20 minutes, it gets VERY hot.
- I do not recommendusing this light for more than 10 minutes at a time on HIGH. 
- As it may damage the light as it did with mine. It just gets way too hot. =(
- Spend a bit more and get something like Romisen RC-T6 if you want 500+ lumens for extended use.
*Final Notes*
- Well, it's OK but nothing that spectacular in anyway. It was what I expected. Nothing more.
- At the end, know what you are getting and it's fine. It's not expensive, it's bright and has 5 modes.
- I give it 4 stars assuming you don't use it for 20mins+ at a time. (Or only use it in blistering cold winter)
- I'm being nice here as I'm assuming other's won't have as such bad luck as me. But never know. =P

*[Direct Drive Mod Results]*
- As my driver died, I have resoldered the wires on the driver to bypass it completely.
- This makes it a direct drive as it's basically emitter-battery with nothing in-between.
- It makes it into a 1-mode light also as the switch is just a 1-mode reverse clicky.

New Lightbox = 950 lux (But slowly drops a little bit every few seconds)
Current = 2.05A @ 4.15v (Both Trustfire and Ultrafire 1650 give same result)

- A better mod would be to get a new driver and use 2 x 18650 for a full 10-12Watt output. (Should be around 800 lumens then)
- But I can only shudder at the thought how hot it'll get when driven at full power. Eek. =P
- So i guess this is now a direct drive SSC P7 light. I will test run time later on like this.

*◎Photos*

New Kitchen @ ISO 800 F2.8 1/25sec (Direct Drive modded as driver died)






Wall Beam @ ISO 200 F2.8 1/100sec (Direct Drive modded as driver died)





Wall Beam @ ISO 100 F2.8 1/100sec (1 stop darker) (Direct Drive modded as driver died)





*◎Runtime*
- I think intense temperatures shocked the driver mid-war though. Way too hot!
- So don't use it for more than 10 minutes on HIGH unless you want to kill it. =)


----------



## randomlugia

*Why aren't DX SSC flashlights acually 900 lumens?*

I've been wondering, why aren't the DX light acually 900 lumens? They use the Seoul P7, which is the same thing the Eagletac M2 uses. Yet somehow, the Eagletac produces 900 lumens, and the DX light, about 90-200. Why?

For example, this *[link removed - DM51]*. Is there a way to make it put out 900?


----------



## The Fred

*TK10 and Ultrafire C3 Q5*

I don't have the measuring equipment, but can anyone confirm the output of these two lights the Ultrafire C3 Q5 and the TK10. I'm worried because when I turned them both on high mode, they seemed to be just as bright as each other and I'm sure the little C3 isn't kicking out anything like 200 lumens. Are there details in lumens for these two?
Cheers!:wave:


----------



## seaside

*Re: Why aren't DX SSC flashlights acually 900 lumens?*

Where this 90~200 number come from?


----------



## 1996alnl

*Re: Why aren't DX SSC flashlights acually 900 lumens?*

Those DX P7 light's put out alot more than 200 lumens,alot more.
Having said that,the EagleTac uses a premium D bin P7 and the light is regulated, the DX ones are a lesser bin and direct drive.
But still for $35-$45 you could easily get 450-500 lumens.
If quality isn't an issue for you.

We can't compare them.


----------



## csshih

*Re: Why aren't DX SSC flashlights acually 900 lumens?*

it's all about the electronics, or the lack of it... high quality driver components factor in a part too.


----------



## MrGman

*Re: Why aren't DX SSC flashlights acually 900 lumens?*

You have a lack of general understanding about light sources and more importantly advertising. The SSC P7 LED may be capable of 900 lumens at the die "bulb lumens as some refer to it", but that doesn't mean you will get that out the front of any flashlight. Some companies will advertise what the rated "bulb" lumens of the light source is and lead you to believe you are going to get that out the front. Some companies tell you its bulb lumens and not to expect it out the front but they don't know what is really coming out the front because its not easy to measure. Some companies go through the trouble to measure what comes out the front or send it to a lab that can so they can honestly say this is what you get out the front.

Others simply underestimate what comes out the front and so if you get more you can't complain. Like the SureFire E2DL that says 120 lumens and mine measured over 200 in a real Integration sphere system. Even if I was off by 10% it would still be well above the claimed 120 lumens and I certainly could not complain.

The cheap companies may have a LED that is capable of 900 lumens out of the die or dice, but you would still never get that out the front. Mine and other peoples testing indicates a 900 lumen source is good for no more than about 700-740 lumens out the front with an excellent driver and more importantly a great heatsink with significant thermal mass so that it doesn't drift down over time as it gets hot.

You want a real 900 lumen source that puts out as much as possible with minimal loss from reflector and the glass, you are not going to buy it from DC for less than $60 that is for sure.

There is nothing to say that the new EagleTacs actually have 900 lumens out the front yet either. I believe that there source is actually driven to 900 lumens but out the front I am guessing its going to be right in the 630 to 740 lumen range.

This general topic has been discussed by many for a few years now. The difference between claims and truth, the difference between claims of "bulb" lumens versus out the front. Its all been covered before.

The only way to know what you are truly getting is to buy from a reputable company that tells you they measured the lumens and where. I don't expect the Eagletac with the P7 to actually have 900 lumens out the front of the glass. I will be testing some when they come out to find that out for sure. I expect it to be an excellent flashlight with well regulated output levels, but the highest I expect would be 740 lumens. If I am wrong I will be pleasantly surprised but so be it. 

I look at the new Fenix T40 that is claiming 630 lumens out the front and I believe that is very truthful from a 900 Lumen source that is not being driven right up to the full rated power, maybe 90 to 95% of full rated power, and then there are losses for the reflector and the glass. So I believe that 630 lumens is a very believable number. 

It will be very interesting to see what all these latest batch of super lights using the MC-E and P7's in larger lights with better heatsinks and good battery power will do. I believe they will mostly be in that 630 to 740 lumen range. G.


----------



## Marduke

*Re: TK10 and Ultrafire C3 Q5*

It takes an increase of roughly 4x to appear twice as bright.

The TK10 is putting out ~225 OTF

The UF C3 depends heavily upon the exact model. The original is definitely <100


----------



## The Fred

*Re: TK10 and Ultrafire C3 Q5*

Thank you!


----------



## PhantomPhoton

*Re: Why aren't DX SSC flashlights acually 900 lumens?*

Pretty much what Gman said.
The Eagletac isn't putting out 900 lumens either though. It is 900 theoretical peak lumens from the emitter. More than likely the emitter is in the low 800s and we loose ~10%+ fom the reflector and front window. So in the end about 700 out the front lumens is the true output.

Cheap lights may or may not put out more lumens. Some of then overdrive their LEDs and for the first few minutes of battery life they'll blast out a lot of light. And some of them outright lie and put out around 400-500 lumens. It's all marketing in the end. :shakehead


----------



## boomhauer

*Re: AKOray K-102*

Just received mine yesterday from KD (took 1.5 weeks, not bad) and I'm really impressed with the overall quality. The fit, finish and output are all very good. The beam color is slightly blue, but not excessively so. I think the beam pattern is quite nice, with a tight hot spot and what I would describe as a broad corona and a narrower ring of side spill. Seemed to exhibit good throw out in the yard.

The one thing that could be improved is the switch. Mine has the new protruding switch cap, and requires fairly heavy pressure to activate momentary light - which is good for a potential EDC. The click itself is almost silent - also very good. Overall, it works fine as long as the unit is screwed together tightly. However, the click on mine is rather mushy and non-distinct - I'd prefer a little more positive tactile feedback, and a sense that the switch will hold up. I wonder if some contact cleaner might help straighten it out.

Overall, I'm very happy with the K-102, and plan to order the K-106 as well.


----------



## Painkiller1009

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Check out this new light from dx. Looks interesting, but pricey.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.22934


----------



## Coolwhip GA

*Which should I get*

Which of these will be brighter,and for how long? And does anyone know about their beam characteristics, throw difference?

MTE SF-15 SSC P7-D-SXO 4-Mode Memory 
sku.22567


or


Aurora AK-P7-5 HA-III SSC P7-C 2-Mode 
sku.15739


----------



## old4570

*Re: Which should I get*



Coolwhip GA said:


> Which of these will be brighter,and for how long? And does anyone know about their beam characteristics, throw difference?
> 
> MTE SF-15 SSC P7-D-SXO 4-Mode Memory
> sku.22567
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 
> Aurora AK-P7-5 HA-III SSC P7-C 2-Mode
> sku.15739



The Aurora seems to have a better reputation ..
But without a side by side comparison ?????


----------



## alohaluau

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

I have been following this thread for a very very long time, and thanks to BB I have become a self confessed flashaholic. :mecry:

Started off with a Romisen RC-G2 (bought 9 in total if I remember correctly), then to the RC-A3, RC-N3...

Looking for some "cheap & reliable" 1xAA lights again for gifts (5 this time) when visiting my cousins interstate, after comparing all newcomers, guess what I will be getting again?

The Romi RC-G2! :thinking:

Personally I find it needs minimal or no fixes and it works straight off the bat, say compared to the UF C3 which may have flickering issues. Unless I have missed something, can someone steer me to an alternative? 

All help appreciated.

Cheers,
Luau :wave:


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



alohaluau said:


> Unless I have missed something, can someone steer me to an alternative?



Not really, I think it's a great AA light and the only one I've bothered with from DX. The RC-H3 might be worth considering for a less bulky single AA light. One thing though, in case you didn't know, shiningbeam.com sell a Q5 version of the RC-G2 if you don't mind paying a bit more.


----------



## s.c.

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



Zatoichi said:


> Not really, I think it's a great AA light and the only one I've bothered with from DX. The RC-H3 might be worth considering for a less bulky single AA light. One thing though, in case you didn't know, shiningbeam.com sell a Q5 version of the RC-G2 if you don't mind paying a bit more.



To my eyes, the q5 is only slightly brighter. Its still worth the extra cost though. Much faster shipping with great customer support.


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



s.c. said:


> To my eyes, the q5 is only slightly brighter. Its still worth the extra cost though. Much faster shipping with great customer support.



I haven't actually compared them, but I imagine with around 30% more output it wouldn't be that noticeable indoors. Maybe a little more noticeable outdoors in the dark.

I bought my RC-N3 from shiningbeam, but my RC-G2 is from DX. I couldn't resist the $11.30 price, and the output is decent enough with the P2(?).


----------



## cbestwick

*AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*

Hi All,

Just looking to buy a budget general use flashlight and have ended up stuck between the AKOray Cree Q5 ($20.89 - SKU 16607 @ DX), and the Romisen RC-N3 ($16.99 - SKU 9070 @ DX).

Have read the reviews on both of these but still cannot decide as there seems to be the odd problem with each. My reasons for looking at these in particular are: price; brightness; run time - and allied to this, the option of different modes depending on circumstance. I'll probably be running them off of NiMH's most of the time. I realise I'm asking a lot of these budget lights but they seem to deliver according to most reviews.

I'd be very grateful for your input - or suggestions for alternatives, though the AKOray really is at the top of my budget at the moment.

Thanks in advance,

Chris


----------



## notsobrite

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*

:welcome:

i have no first hand knowledge of the akoray, but i'd recommend the romisen and suggest you buy it from shiningbeam. when i was a newbie- still am, really- i bought a bunch of cheap lites from dx and not one of them still works. plus if you order from dx be prepared to wait almost a month for it. sb ships very quickly and is an all around good site to order from.


----------



## boomhauer

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*

Both of your candidate lights are very interesting to me, too. Each brand represents the upper end of quality offered by the discount dealers.

I have an AKOray K-102 (1-AAA) and am really impressed with it. It helped firm my resolve to order the K-106. The multi-mode capability is a useful feature, too.


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*

I have 3 Romisens now (RC-N3, RC-G2 and RC-C3) and am pleased with them all, especially the N3 and G2. I'm not ashamed to have them mingle with my more expensive lights, and would recommend them to anyone looking in that price range.


----------



## vali

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*

I have both lights from DX. They are good quality (considering the price) and great value. But they are very different. Get the light that fits your planned usage (or both .)

The RC-N3 is perfect for home or car usage, but with NiMH its not an EDC (but you can use it with CR123 batteries). It is brighter using NiMH and has not a proper low, but have a decent throw. Runtime is good in max but not that good in "medium" if you take in account the output. You need to use 2xAA cells. I did a runtime test of 3 hours on max and then 3 more hours on medium with alkalines. According to selfbuilt's tests seems the pill its the same as the shiningbeam one (but in SB they removed the strobe). The light should be brighter if you buy it from shiningbeam, as they provide Q5 instead P4 (DX). I didnt compare both because I dont have the "Q5 edition".

The AKOray is great as EDC and you can choose the brightness level (even getting rid of strobe, like I did). It is only 1xAA and less bright in NiMH than the RC-N3 (On my samples Akoray in max is a bit more than RC-N3 on medium). The best thing in this one is, without doubt, the programmable settings (with a proper low, about 3-5 lumen), so be sure you get the 3-mode programmable version. Runtime in low should be great. I didnt do a runtime test in low, but I sank it in a bottle of water with one of the "depleted" alkalines from the RC-N3 test and after 6 hours it continued working (no water inside either). Runtime in max seems to be a bit more than an hour. According some reviews, the Akoray with lithium rechargeables is brighter than the Romisen.

Overall they are both a recommended purchase for a budget flashlight.


----------



## csshih

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*

there is another version of the N3 from shiningbeam.. a bit brighter..

but I'd recommend that one, hands down.


----------



## boomhauer

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*

I forgot that the N3 is now multi-mode. However the AKOray output is also programmable. 

Don't think you can go wrong with either. I might own both someday.


----------



## linterno

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*



notsobrite said:


> i bought a bunch of cheap lites from dx and not one of them still works.


In honor to the truth, I was just wandering if you are not exaggerating. What did you to your flashlight that all of them are damaged (not working)? or, What kind of cheap flashlight did you buy from DX?.

Probably RC-N3 from shiningbeam is brighter, but as far as I know this is exactly the same acceptable quality Romisen RC-N3 we bought from DX (except for CREE Q5 instead of CREE P4) which in my case is working very well.

In few words, Every one of my flashlights from DX are still working fine.


----------



## cbestwick

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*

Thanks for the replies - the RC-N3 interests me because of the ability to run it with different battery combinations and the price seems incredible. 

Not having had anything other than cheap incandescents in the past, and not having a clue what their output might be, I'm a little unsure just how useable the low setting on these two torches is, or for that matter, just how bright they might be on high? I like the idea of having a very small torch (just one AA), but don't want to compromise too much on ability - either brightness or run time, should the need arise. The RC-N3 from DX is very hard to ignore unless there is a clear advantage for the AKOray.

Chris


----------



## alohaluau

*Re: Romisen RC-G2 P2(?) v Q5 version*



Zatoichi said:


> I couldn't resist the $11.30 price, and the output is decent enough with the P2(?).



The price was the clincher as well, the Q5 version was way too expensive as I'm ordering a 'large' amount, now totalling 10. 

The Romis are going to non flashaholics, it is a "gift" from me, and the RC-G2 are definitely brighter than what they normally use.

The plus side with DX is also the free shipping and bulk discounts. :twothumbs

Cheers,
Luau
p.s. Just remembered, have to use BB's referral code so he gets some DX points.


----------



## csshih

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*

hehe, but bryan @ shiningbeam has better support, and is closer than hong kong.. well unless you live there 

I was bored and actually sanded the reflector on my RC-N3... 
got a replacement from him pretty cheap.. was it 2, 3$?


----------



## notsobrite

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*



linterno said:


> In honor to the truth, I was just wandering if you are not exaggerating. What did you to your flashlight that all of them are damaged (not working)? or, What kind of cheap flashlight did you buy from DX?.
> 
> Probably RC-N3 from shiningbeam is brighter, but as far as I know this is exactly the same acceptable quality Romisen RC-N3 we bought from DX (except for CREE Q5 instead of CREE P4) which in my case is working very well.
> 
> In few words, Every one of my flashlights from DX are still working fine.



off the top of my head- 

two romisen rc-g2's, ultrafire c3, wf-400 and a couple more that i can't remember the names of. i've taken a vow not to buy any more lights from dx- but we know how that's going to work out:duh2:

i'm glad your's are still working for you.


----------



## seaside

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*



cbestwick said:


> Thanks for the replies - the RC-N3 interests me because of the ability to run it with different battery combinations and the price seems incredible.
> 
> Not having had anything other than cheap incandescents in the past, and not having a clue what their output might be, I'm a little unsure just how useable the low setting on these two torches is, or for that matter, just how bright they might be on high? I like the idea of having a very small torch (just one AA), but don't want to compromise too much on ability - either brightness or run time, should the need arise. The RC-N3 from DX is very hard to ignore unless there is a clear advantage for the AKOray.
> 
> Chris


 

Here's rough estimate of what you can expect with AA flashlight.

You got some MagLite, right?
MagLite 2AA Mini incan is about ~20 lumens, 3D MagLite LED is like ~45 lumens. With RC-N3 or Akoray, you can expect brighter light than that of those MagLiites. Typical runtime of those 1AA LED flashlights would be about 1 hour of bright light and couple hours of dimmed light.

Buying cheap flashlight from foreign source could be risky, especially when you don't know what's crap and what's not. So, it is very wise of you asking here before you made decision. I don't have any akoray, thus I can't comment directly on it. A friend of mine has couple of them and he told me some good things about them. I have some romisens, and I never felt like I have wasted my money on them. In fact, I think romisens are quite good deal for the money. 

Low light is useful when you don't need bright light. For example, when you read books, when you go to bathroom at the middle of night, when you don't want to disturb anyone with bright light, and when you want to preserve battery life, etc.

If you should buy romisen, check shiningbeam first. 
Their romisens are few dollors expensive than those DX sells, and NO, they never gave me any incentive like customer points or free gift. But the thing is, that little extrea cost is worth it, because you will get better LED, better service and quick delivery to compare with foreign dealers.

Hope this helps.

***
And, as for little side note, I like my ultrafire A10 as cheap single mode EDC.


----------



## deusexaethera

*Got my blue glow switch covers from DX today.*

Sure enough, they were a perfect fit for my P3D, minus a little trimming of the rubber finger inside the button that presses on the switch. The diameter was spot-on, and they glow nice and bright. However, they do prevent the P3D from tailstanding, because the switch cover protrudes slightly, which the stock switch cover doesn't do. No matter to me, because I'm not likely to use the P3D as a candle, but I suppose someone might.

Anyway, it was worth the $3 for a pack of ten -- lots of opportunities to mess up.


----------



## islw2863

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*

I have the Akoray 1xAA and think it is a great inexpensive edc flashlight. The features I most appreciate are a HIGH that is really excellent and NO STROBE.

I don't have the Romisen so can't compare the two directly.


----------



## Abyssos

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*

Shinningbeam has the Q5 version of the Romisen G2, N3, and F4. They are brighter than the standard version.

I have the G2-Q5 and the F4-Q5 and I am satisfied with them. It took three days for delivery from Shiningbeam which is pretty fast. Yes, they are a few dollars more but for the extra brightness and Bryan's inspection of the lights means no DOA. :thumbsup:


----------



## cbestwick

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*



seaside said:


> Here's rough estimate of what you can expect with AA flashlight.
> 
> You got some MagLite, right?
> MagLite 2AA Mini incan is about ~20 lumens, 3D MagLite LED is like ~45 lumens. With RC-N3 or Akoray, you can expect brighter light than that of those MagLiites. Typical runtime of those 1AA LED flashlights would be about 1 hour of bright light and couple hours of dimmed light.
> 
> Buying cheap flashlight from foreign source could be risky, especially when you don't know what's crap and what's not. So, it is very wise of you asking here before you made decision. I don't have any akoray, thus I can't comment directly on it. A friend of mine has couple of them and he told me some good things about them. I have some romisens, and I never felt like I have wasted my money on them. In fact, I think romisens are quite good deal for the money.
> 
> Low light is useful when you don't need bright light. For example, when you read books, when you go to bathroom at the middle of night, when you don't want to disturb anyone with bright light, and when you want to preserve battery life, etc.
> 
> If you should buy romisen, check shiningbeam first.
> Their romisens are few dollors expensive than those DX sells, and NO, they never gave me any incentive like customer points or free gift. But the thing is, that little extrea cost is worth it, because you will get better LED, better service and quick delivery to compare with foreign dealers.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> ***
> And, as for little side note, I like my ultrafire A10 as cheap single mode EDC.


Thanks for the info - the RC-N3 looks like the one to go for. As much as I would like to go for the upgraded model from shiningbeam, the higher cost plus postage to the UK puts it just out of my reach (I really am on a budget!). Time to dip my toe into the murky world of DX ;-)

Chris


----------



## gmf2010

*Re: Got my blue glow switch covers from DX today.*

Link please oo:


----------



## Marduke

*Re: Got my blue glow switch covers from DX today.*



gmf2010 said:


> Link please oo:



sku 7321


----------



## gmf2010

*Re: Got my blue glow switch covers from DX today.*

Ty, sir.


----------



## deusexaethera

*Re: Got my blue glow switch covers from DX today.*

Sorry bout that, took me a while to find them.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7321


----------



## Corvette6769

*Anything better than the Fenix PD30?*

I see the overseas dealers like DX, KD, and on eBay offering Cree Premium R2 flashlights like Solarforce and UltraFire with vague and/or unrealistic claims of 250 to 300 "manufacturer rated" or "max output" lumens, but I want a quality light that truly meets or exceeds its lumen rating.

While I am surprised that Fenix is not installing the more desirable Cree Premium R2 in the PD30, I am still considering purchasing a Fenix PD30 to replace my Fenix P3D for every day carry unless someone can point me to a better alternative (same or superior features, power, and quality). 

Is there a quality flashlight the same size (118mm x 21.5mm / 4.65" x .85") or smaller than the Fenix PD30 that puts out 220 or more lumens?


----------



## putbinoot

*It's here.*

Ok i just bought my first flashlight for a while after finding these forums again and I know it's maybe not what some of the flashaholics might consider a flashlight but i bought it more out of curiosity just to see what there build was like. So what is it i here you add, well it's an MTE SSc P7-D and I know it won't actually have 900 lumens bursting out but it should be a bit brighter than my pelican 2410 Recoil. The build looks good, clean machined threads and just needs a bit silicon on the o rings. How bright is this thing, well if the batteries had arrived i would be able to tell you, but i ordered them from the bay and they ain't here yet. Is there anything thats a primary cell that could be used in place of a 18650 to let me see at least some light out of this or am i going to have to bit the built and wait for the rechargeables to show up.


----------



## supasizefries

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

You would have to make sure of the input voltage, but maybe 2 cr123 batteries might do the trick? If the pill has a very narrow input voltage, I would NOT attempt this though.


----------



## funkychateau

*Re: AKOray or Romisen for newbie?*



cbestwick said:


> Hi All,
> 
> Just looking to buy a budget general use flashlight and have ended up stuck between the AKOray Cree Q5 ($20.89 - SKU 16607 @ DX), and the Romisen RC-N3 ($16.99 - SKU 9070 @ DX).
> 
> Have read the reviews on both of these but still cannot decide as there seems to be the odd problem with each. My reasons for looking at these in particular are: price; brightness; run time - and allied to this, the option of different modes depending on circumstance. I'll probably be running them off of NiMH's most of the time. I realise I'm asking a lot of these budget lights but they seem to deliver according to most reviews.
> 
> I'd be very grateful for your input - or suggestions for alternatives, though the AKOray really is at the top of my budget at the moment.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Chris


 
Chris,

I haven't used the Romisen, but I own both the AA and AAA Akorays. You can't go wrong with the K-106 ..... BUT ..... I'd say there is a near-certain chance that the light you receive will have a flickering issue, and you will have to remove the tailcap and fix the switch grounding. Once you do that, this may easily become your #1 favorite toy, particularly if you're a gadget nerd, because of the incredible programmability. Plus it's very bright on a good NiMH battery, and blazing bright on a 14500 Li-ion (about twice the output of my Fenix L2P).


----------



## wonbyone

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

I guess that I got lucky... no flickering issues and no diminished out put on 14500 batteries after a few minutes. A very good light... and I agree that it could be my favorite, and probably is.... I have already ordered a second. 

Respectfully, how did you guys figure out the programing? I could have messed with this light for a long time before coming up how to program it.
Were you involved in the design?

Best regards. --Bill


----------



## old4570

*Re: Anything better than the Fenix PD30?*



Corvette6769 said:


> I see the overseas dealers like DX, KD, and on eBay offering Cree Premium R2 flashlights like Solarforce and UltraFire with vague and/or unrealistic claims of 250 to 300 "manufacturer rated" or "max output" lumens, but I want a quality light that truly meets or exceeds its lumen rating.
> 
> While I am surprised that Fenix is not installing the more desirable Cree Premium R2 in the PD30, I am still considering purchasing a Fenix PD30 to replace my Fenix P3D for every day carry unless someone can point me to a better alternative (same or superior features, power, and quality).
> 
> Is there a quality flashlight the same size (118mm x 21.5mm / 4.65" x .85") or smaller than the Fenix PD30 that puts out 220 or more lumens?



My first L2 with a 3.7 - 4.2 pill , draws up to 1.7Amp at the tail with the right battery , CREE R2 (114-120 Lumens @ 350ma) So do the math ...
My second 3.7 - 4.2 draws up to 1.4Amp at the tail ... The 8.4's dont do nearly as well , sitting around 1Amp at the tail . 
I think you'l find that many cheap lights are doing 300Lumen at the LED , and if you shop carefully , you can have a good , dare I say it , cheap light . 
I have 5 R2's , and Im not disappointed in anyway . I posted some beamshots of my L2 VS a SSC P7 https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/230027

All my cheap R2's are keepers : That includes my Ultrafire WF-502B / 4 x Solarforce L2's .. 
:wave:


----------



## BurlyEd

*Re: Anything better than the Fenix PD30?*



Corvette6769 said:


> I see the overseas dealers like DX, KD, and on eBay offering Cree Premium R2 flashlights like Solarforce and UltraFire with vague and/or unrealistic claims of 250 to 300 "manufacturer rated" or "max output" lumens, but I want a quality light that truly meets or exceeds its lumen rating.
> 
> While I am surprised that Fenix is not installing the more desirable Cree Premium R2 in the PD30, I am still considering purchasing a Fenix PD30 to replace my Fenix P3D for every day carry unless someone can point me to a better alternative (same or superior features, power, and quality).
> 
> Is there a quality flashlight the same size (118mm x 21.5mm / 4.65" x .85") or smaller than the Fenix PD30 that puts out 220 or more lumens?



I have both a PD30 Q5 ($91) and a Solarforce L2 R2 ($25 including rechargeable battery and holster) + 18650 Extension Tube ($10). $35 vs. $91 Advantage: Solarforce.

Dimensions are almost identical. Both look about equal on high, but the Fenix has a lower low. R2 is probably brighter than Q5, but I cannot tell for sure. TIE.

I can only take the tail cap off the Fenix, but I can replace every single part of the Solarforce. The Solarforce can be customized and modified more than any other flashlight that I know of. Without the extension, the Solarforce is smaller and total cost becomes $25. Advantage Solarforce.

The dimmer system on the Fenix is cool! The Fenix dealer and warranty is better. The Fenix does not misspell "SOS" (it does not have a SOS function) Advantage Fenix.

Bottomline: I bought both. I use and play with the Solarforce more. Even though the Solarforce initially cost less, it actually will cost me more. I have a Gray L2 with a flat bezel ($25) and a flat Black L2 + extension and lanyard ring ($39). I have already ordered a Tan L2 with "tactical" bezel ($25) and I am going to order an L2M and some more lanyard rings and ... Let the LEGO games continue. 

The Fenix is great, but it is a dead end.

I think this subthread should be moved. It is a goood question, but the PD30 should not be in the Budget category. I think the Solarforce deserves to be here for sure.


----------



## popcornpicker

*Akoray 109A vs Akoray 106*

They are basically the same, just a different body.

The 109A uses a CR123 and is from KD and the 106 is AA from DX.

The 109A is probably 50% brighter but also gets hotter. Its performance is probably the same as a 106 with a 14500 battery. I can't say since I don't have any 14500 batteries. They don't have them in the checkout lines in the grocery stores that I go to.

When you put in the batteries in, the 109A seems to catch maybe two threads but the 106 gets maybe four or five.


----------



## Painkiller1009

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

whats up with the reflector on sku 22934


----------



## s.c.

*Re: Akoray 109A vs Akoray 106*



popcornpicker said:


> They are basically the same, just a different body.
> 
> The 109A uses a CR123 and is from KD and the 106 is AA from DX.
> 
> The 109A is probably 50% brighter but also gets hotter. Its performance is probably the same as a 106 with a 14500 battery. I can't say since I don't have any 14500 batteries. They don't have them in the checkout lines in the grocery stores that I go to.
> 
> When you put in the batteries in, the 109A seems to catch maybe two threads but the 106 gets maybe four or five.



What do you mean it 'catches the threads?'

I have both, as well as 14500 batteries on the way. I'm really looking forward to them.


----------



## popcornpicker

*Re: Akoray 109A vs Akoray 106*

I was referring to how many times you can rotate the head after the threads engage until it bottoms out.


----------



## boomhauer

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



Painkiller1009 said:


> whats up with the reflector on sku 22934


 
I had wondered the same thing. Check the topic "what's a recoil thrower" near the bottom of the page. Basically it's a rearward-aimed led, which in conjunction with the reflector produces a tighter beam. The green stuff is gitd.


----------



## s.c.

*Re: Akoray 109A vs Akoray 106*

Thanks. What's your overall impression? How does the low level look? Specifically, how's the PWM? Is it really visible on the lower settings?


----------



## BurlyEd

*Re: Akoray 109A vs Akoray 106*

I have two AKOray 106's and an AKOray 109A.
I feel sure that the 106 is the best AA size light available for $20.
I use a 14500 in one and a AA in the other.
(They don't have 16340 Li-Ions in the checkout lines in the grocery stores that I go to. ) 

I would like the 109A better, except for the availibility of the less expensive UltraFire A20, A30 and A40. The 109A is the same as the 106 if both are at 3.6v.

Both of my 3.6v AKOrays tend to shine brightly and get hot quickly .
All three can have a low that is probably below 10 lumens.

My AKOray K-102 (with a 10440) is always in my shirt pocket and the K-106 is on my nightstand if I am not carrying it.


----------



## popcornpicker

*Re: Akoray 109A vs Akoray 106*

Overall, unless you need the extra power, I'd go with the 106.

If you took the 109A down to the level of the 106 with a AA, the heat should be the same with longer runtimes. The head of the 109A just doesn't seem to screw together as securely.


----------



## Corvette6769

*Re: Anything better than the Fenix PD30?*



BurlyEd said:


> I think this subthread should be moved. It is a goood question, but the PD30 should not be in the Budget category. I think the Solarforce deserves to be here for sure.


 
I agree, and it was my intent for my original post to start its own thread under LED Flashlights (not a sub-thread under BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9). 

Perhaps the Moderator will move this.


----------



## putbinoot

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



supasizefries said:


> You would have to make sure of the input voltage, but maybe 2 cr123 batteries might do the trick? If the pill has a very narrow input voltage, I would NOT attempt this though.


cheers for help, but after stumbling across another post in the battery section i dismantled my dell laptop cell to find 6 18650 cells, so light is up and running.


----------



## wings

*Re: Akoray 109A vs Akoray 106*

My K106 is a programmable 3 mode light while the K109 is 6 modes set. I prefer the K106 and just ordered another couple from DX.


----------



## boomhauer

*New CREE Q5 AKOray K-102*

I see KD has a new Q5 version of the little AKOray K-102 for $15. Might have to get one of these, too...


----------



## BurlyEd

*Re: New CREE Q5 AKOray K-102*



boomhauer said:


> I see KD has a new Q5 version of the little AKOray K-102 for $15. Might have to get one of these, too...


Thanks for the tip. Click! Ordered.


----------



## boomhauer

*Re: New CREE Q5 AKOray K-102*

Given your earlier posts, I had a hunch you might be interested.  The Q5 hould make this dynamite little light even better. Please let us know what you think after you've had some time with it. Maybe I'll purchase the Q5 and donate the SSC to my wife - she seems to like it already!

So what's next for the K-106... an R2?


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Some new flashlights over at DX : The one that hit my eye was the : Ultrafire WF-008 Recoil Thrower : sku.22934
and : Ultrafire C8-A1 : sku.22931 .. Just wondering if the C8 is a thrower . 

Oh well, the A20 is on my shopping list for now , hmmm , and maybe the 008 recoil thrower ...


----------



## alohaluau

*Romisen RC-N3 v SmallSun ZY-C61*

Hi BB and CPF members/readers,

I bought a SmallSun ZY-C61 Cree P4 (2*AA) from DX, sku 15457, which looks like a Romisen RC-N3 (I have the original single stage version).

On DX the pics it shows the torch (Aussie, sorry... ) in 2*AA form.

Guess what? 






The SmallSun is above and the Romisen is below.

I saw something sticking out around the edge near the clip, it looked like a clear/opaque o-ring, I figured, no harm in trying, I twisted the barrel and voila!  It came apart!

I tried a Trustfire Grey RCR123A and it fits like the Romisen RC-N3 in the CR123 form!!!

Here's my attempt at a review (my first!) and comparison to the RC-N3, please be gentle with me... 

- The body has a shiny sheen instead of matte like the RC-N3.
- It has a plastic lens, haven't opened up to check the reflector.
- Comes with a black single stage reverse clicky! Has a mushy feel when it is in off mode, when clicked on the button firms up.
- Threads doesn't come lubed, one of the o-rings came torn (!) in the tailcap. I suggest getting better quality o-rings as replacements and lubing before putting it back together.
- The emitter is off-centred (very!), I guess the QC not as good as Romisen.
- Doesn't come with a lanyard.
- Parts interchangeable with the RC-N3, only a slight variation in tube and tailcap height.
- Brighter than the single stage RC-N3, judging by naked eye.

If you are looking for a Romisen RC-N3 without the two stage and strobe from DX, this may be it. I may buy another one as a gift.

Cheers,
Luau :wave:
p.s. Remember to add BB's referral code when ordering from DX, that way he gets some 'referral credit' added to his account.


----------



## vali

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Plastic lens, no anodized threads, no lube, uncentered led... We sometimes see copies of premium flashlights (or torchs  ) but its the first time I see an almost verbatim copy of a budget light. (Or maybe they consider Romisen "premium"... Or it is the same company trying to get rid of some sub-par components, who knows?).


----------



## STi

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

I have tried a few of these budget lights ...Ultrafire A1 which i actually liked before it flickered during mode switching! Akoray k109 Q5 IBS..Whats ALL the hype about on this pile of doo? This light was not as bright as A1 and beam profile was horrible! Romisen rc-c3 Q5... this light is ok but has same tint as my LD01 and became my glovebox light. The other 2 i sold here. I will never try and save a measily few bucks again when good lights only cost $60-70!


----------



## s.c.

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



STi said:


> I have tried a few of these budget lights ...Ultrafire A1 which i actually liked before it flickered during mode switching! Akoray k109 Q5 IBS..Whats ALL the hype about on this pile of doo? This light was not as bright as A1 and beam profile was horrible! Romisen rc-c3 Q5... this light is ok but has same tint as my LD01 and became my glovebox light. The other 2 i sold here. I will never try and save a measily few bucks again when good lights only cost $60-70!



I agree that the beam could be a little prettier on the akoray, but in real life usage it really doesn't matter. I don't think raw lumen output is the desired feature of the akoray, its the IBS-type feature on a $20 light, and it does it well. Also, its not just a "measly few bucks" when you consider you can get 3-5 nicely performing lights for the cost of one $60 light. They're nice to have to lend out, give away, stash in the glovebox etc...


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



STi said:


> I have tried a few of these budget lights ...Ultrafire A1 which i actually liked before it flickered during mode switching! Akoray k109 Q5 IBS..Whats ALL the hype about on this pile of doo? This light was not as bright as A1 and beam profile was horrible! Romisen rc-c3 Q5... this light is ok but has same tint as my LD01 and became my glovebox light. The other 2 i sold here. I will never try and save a measily few bucks again when good lights only cost $60-70!



First of all, problems like flickering can usually be easily fixed and aren't an issue for people with a little know-how. I'm not sure what your point is with the RC-C3. It has the same tint as your Fenix LD01... so you're not really happy with it at a fraction of the LD01's price? 

Personally I don't buy budget lights to save a few bucks, but I occasionally buy lights that happen to be cheap. My budget light collection consists of three Romisens: RC-N3, RC-G2 and RC-C3, and three Solarforce L2's. The only fault I can find with any of them is a sloppy fitting o-ring on the RC-C3. If someone doesn't want to spend $60 - 70 on a flashlight, any of these could be a great choice.

I'd be the first to agree that buying any old light off DX just because it's cheap could lead to dissapointment, but if you do your homework you can end up with some great lights for next to nothing. I did anyway.


----------



## STi

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



Zatoichi said:


> First of all, problems like flickering can usually be easily fixed and aren't an issue for people with a little know-how. I'm not sure what your point is with the RC-C3. It has the same tint as your Fenix LD01... so you're not really happy with it at a fraction of the LD01's price?
> 
> Personally I don't buy budget lights to save a few bucks, but I occasionally buy lights that happen to be cheap. My budget light collection consists of three Romisens: RC-N3, RC-G2 and RC-C3, and three Solarforce L2's. The only fault I can find with any of them is a sloppy fitting o-ring on the RC-C3. If someone doesn't want to spend $60 - 70 on a flashlight, any of these could be a great choice.
> 
> I'd be the first to agree that buying any old light off DX just because it's cheap could lead to dissapointment, but if you do your homework you can end up with some great lights for next to nothing. I did anyway.


 
No wires were loose or anything..What would you do to fix a flicker if no wires are loose, cut or disconnected what would be the next step with your know how?? Since i rip everything apart and put things back together..I feel i do have alittle know how. But nothing was out of place and needed fixing.

Theres not a whole lot to these lights so i'm all ears.


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



STi said:


> No wires were loose or anything..What would you do to fix a flicker if no wires are loose, cut or disconnected what would be the next step with your know how?? Since i rip everything apart and put things back together..I feel i do have alittle know how. But nothing was out of place and needed fixing.




Well, if you've taken it all apart and nothing is out of place or needs fixing, you have a real mystery there. :thinking:

One possibility is poor contact where the edge of the body contacts inside the head. Sometimes a stray spec of paint can interfere with the contact, or a bit of added solder can help make better contact. Also if it's a clicky, make sure the retaining ring inside the tailcap isn't loose. Basically there has to be a reason, and there's only so much can go wrong to cause flickering, and poor contact is a likely culprit.

I'm not ruling out the possiblity you have a bad light that can't be fixed that easily, I'm just saying flickering is quite a common problem with cheap lights 'out of the box' that can often be easily fixed. I had a slight problem with my TK10 which was solved with a little contact cleaner.


----------



## oldrock

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

I thought I would do a quick follow up now that I have several weeks of use on my akoray K106 lights. The first thing to report is the obvious one... mainly that the light is totally different animal on the lithium than on nimh. I use two of them routinely. One is loaded with an eneloop and the other is loaded with a trustfire lithium. Of course the lithium is very noticably brighter. I have to say though that it is also very prone to getting hot when running on 100% for more than short bursts. I was using it in stand up mode on high with the lithium to work on a light fixture with the power cut off. It did a great job of lighting up the bathroom so I could see what I was doing. Job took me maybe 15mins. When I reached down to pick up the light... it was hot! Not scalding hot but hot enough that I did leave it out of my pocket for a few minutes to let it cool down. I also checked the battery itself which was what I would call very warm but not hot. The main heat was in the head of the light which did get pretty darned hot. Did not appear to do any damage to the light and did teach me an important lesson about running lithiums in the light. I re-programmed my lithium light for a min low setting, about 75% setting and max high setting. That way if I ever need to run extended run times again, I can just set it to the 75% setting. Incidently, that setting is the same light output as a nimh powered one. No overheating problems when running it in the 75% mode so I just reserve the max bright for short bursts of say 5mins or less. A 5min run at high gets the head warm but not hot. 

My eneloop light is working just fine too. I actually like the min low setting on the eneloop better as it gets a nice soft beam. I usually run it on low for close up stuff at night and have also tested it camping standing on its tail. Works good as a makeshift nightlight and runs a very long time in that low mode. In high, it is very bright and is very usable. Only time the nimh disappoints me is when I run it side by side with the lithium powered one. The lithium puts out a very noticable boost in power. 

I am happy with both lights and my Dad is going to love the K106 I am giving to him along with a pair of eneloops and charger! Best $20 flashlight out there imho. I may buy a few more for Christmas presents although I am waiting a while to see if something even better comes out this summer.


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

*UPDATE*
- I haven't been online lately. Busy Busy. =(
- I just ordered a new light from KD. *AKOray K-102 CREE Q5 1-Mode*
- Impulse buy. But I hope it's good as I really like the K-106. =)


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



bessiebenny said:


> *UPDATE*
> - I haven't been online lately. Busy Busy. =(
> - I just ordered a new light from KD. *AKOray K-102 CREE Q5 1-Mode*
> - Impulse buy. But I hope it's good as I really like the K-106. =)



Triple A one = Looking forward to the review .. Looks like it has potential for being a good gift .


----------



## ANDREAS FERRARI

*UltraFire RL-2088 OSRAM 15W*

These ( *UltraFire RL-2088 OSRAM 15W)* have just become available on E-Bay for $160U.S. I have done some searching but other than a couple of Chinese websites(I know a little Cantonese and some Mandarin from language studies at University back in the 80's)but for the life of me I don't what there saying about this light.Does anyone know anything about this light?Even DX is not selling it yet.By the looks of it's size I'm guessing heat would be a problem.Short run time because of poor heatsinking would be a deal breaker for me.


----------



## richardcpf

*Re: UltraFire RL-2088 OSRAM 15W*

What makes this so expensive? Just an MC-E with 2 more dies... Less throw and rectangular beam.

Looks good btw. Heres a pic i found


----------



## chrisdab

*What should my CPF Starter kit contain?*

deleted


----------



## mmbeller191

*UltraFire RL-2088 OSRAM 15W*

Now that is a cool looking light. The EBAY ad says 1300 lumens which sounds like the brightest light around for that size. One chinese website showed it side by side with the wf-1300l which actually made it look downright svelte, though no one will ever edc a 3 x 18650 light. 

Thanks for posting the link, I will be checking dx for it. I wonder if their stats will be the same as far as output. I almost guarantee they will have a better price. 

So modders, does 1300 lm sound about right for an OSRAM 15W led? I'm just wondering if their claimed output seems reasonable coming from 3 18650s. Does the Chinese website say it uses a buck circuit? I couldn't figure out the google translation. 

It may be my turn to take a risk on a newly released light rather than letting someone else post a review first.


----------



## fenixmad

*Re: UltraFire RL-2088 OSRAM 15W*

it's expensive because it uses an OSRAM google up prices just for the OSRAM LED.


----------



## LukeA

*Re: UltraFire RL-2088 OSRAM 15W*



ANDREAS FERRARI said:


> These ( *UltraFire RL-2088 OSRAM 15W)* have just become available on E-Bay for $160U.S. I have done some searching but other than a couple of Chinese websites(I know a little Cantonese and some Mandarin from language studies at University back in the 80's)but for the life of me I don't what there saying about this light.Does anyone know anything about this light?Even DX is not selling it yet.By the looks of it's size I'm guessing heat would be a problem.Short run time because of poor heatsinking would be a deal breaker for me.



Short runtime could also be caused by massive current draw.


----------



## wapkil

*Akoray K-106 afterglow*

Hi everyone,

Some time ago I've bought an Akoray K-106 from DX. After its arrival I turned it on in the high mode and after few minutes the light died. It could be turned on only in a delicate glow mode and only with a NiMH battery inside (I described it here).

I "repaired" the light by touching the LED contacts with leads of my DMM set to voltage measurement. Now I decided to see if the behavior is repeatable. This time I started the light in the mode I set closer to "medium" (0.5A drawn from a LiIon battery). As probably could be expected, after 25 minutes runtime my K-106 died again. I was measuring the temperature on the light head and it have never exceeded 43 degrees Celsius (with 25 ambient).

Does anyone know what may cause this behavior? I still have no idea but I took the opportunity to take some pictures. I think it looks interesting so I thought I'd share:





(the picture can be clicked for a larger version).

I'm wondering what are the two small white dots at the right hand side of the emitter. 




They are present in every picture I took so it seems that they don't reflect light but shine by themselves...


It looks like my light is faulty but at least now it probably can stay in this mode for months


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: Akoray K-106 afterglow*

I don't know what causes it, but I like it.


----------



## roadie

*Re: Akoray K-106 afterglow*

from what i read from yr 2 reports, it could be contact problem, its a known issue with lights such as this ....

while, the small dim light could had been lack of current into the driver.

what some folks do is, resolder all the contact points.


----------



## wapkil

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Hmm, so the K-106 afterglow thread was moved and now is here. Does it mean that all the posts about DX lights should go to this thread?

Anyway, the problem with my K-106 doesn't lie in the contacts. It's somewhere in the driver circuit. It behaves the same way (i.e. only delicate glow, nothing else) even when connected directly to the battery. On the other hand, when the minus lead on the LED is shorted to the ground the LED starts to shine brightly (probably becomes direct driven then). 

If someone's interested, here's how the emitter looks like when the pill is removed from the light:





Well, I always complained that lower low modes should be offered more frequently so now i have the light with the ultimate low


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

What is the current drain when it does this ?
If the current drain drops , then yes the driver ...

+ Does the driver have temp cut off , some drivers can monitor temps and turn of / shut down when things get to hot . 

Or its just a faulty driver , in which case contact DX and send it back for a replacement .


----------



## wapkil

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



old4570 said:


> What is the current drain when it does this ?
> If the current drain drops , then yes the driver ...



I cannot measure the current. It is terribly sensitive in this mode. When I connect my DMM, the light takes ~70mA (edit: from a NiMH cell) but doesn't glow. I think the DMM resistance may be too high. I also thought that it doesn't glow with LiIon batteries - it doesn't when a battery is inside the light but does glow when it is directly connected.



old4570 said:


> + Does the driver have temp cut off , some drivers can monitor temps and turn of / shut down when things get to hot .



I don't know if it has the temperature cut-off but if it has, in my light it is rather permanent cutoff 



old4570 said:


> Or its just a faulty driver , in which case contact DX and send it back for a replacement .



I don't expect them to replace it. Not after I've drilled a hole in the plastic cap that was blocking access to the emitter and replaced the tailcap with a GITD one  

I decided I cannot trust this light anyway so I prefer to see how the one I got works than to try to get a new one.


----------



## Scott Packard

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

> UltraFire RL-2088

The fine print on the EBay auction says available in 10 days.
I don't know if I'd like the switch, 100%, 30%, strobe.


----------



## richardcpf

*Re: Akoray K-106 afterglow*



wapkil said:


> After its arrival I turned it on in the high mode and after few minutes the light died. It could be turned on only in a delicate glow mode and only with a NiMH battery inside.


 
The best thing you can do is to put it on sale on the marketplace. Some people are looking for really low low mode, I guess this is just perfect for them (delicate glow = perfect low). :naughty: And you can say you "modded" it.


----------



## wapkil

*Re: Akoray K-106 afterglow*



richardcpf said:


> The best thing you can do is to put it on sale on the marketplace. Some people are looking for really low low mode, I guess this is just perfect for them (delicate glow = perfect low). :naughty: And you can say you "modded" it.



I guess you're right :devil: I thought I'm one of those people but it turns out that when I turn on the light I prefer it to be a tad brighter than its GITD tailcap. Now I can trade it for some pathetic HID that can't even go below a thousand lumens. Is anyone interested?


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

This one 












Wow $5.64 Ok its Luxeon and its 3xAAA , and its a rear clicky .

Dry Cell AAA = Throw 670Lux - Light box 1 25Lux - Light box 2 1690Lux - Draws o.4A
Alkaline AAA= Throw 1300Lux - Light box 1 63Lux - Light box 2 3260Lux - Draws 0.9A
CR123A-3.7v = Throw 1240Lux - Light box 1 51Lux - Light box 2 3110Lux - Draws o.79A 

There are no O rings to speak off , upgrading it to cree would be a waste of time .
The rear clicky is very nice and positive . Overall build quality is good for a $5 flashlight .
I got this to be used as a loaner that would run on supermarket batts . 
For the price , gives many single AA or AAA lights a run for there money in this price bracket if not actually Kicking some butt ! 

My 3 x AAA to CR123A conversion :

















Parts needed = Some light cardboard , tape , and a tap washer .

Wrap card around a 18650 then tape it up with electrical tape until its a nice fit in the flashlight body .

The tap washer is taped up as pictured , then trimmed for contact . 

Tap washer goes in one end and a CR123A in the other , slip it into the flashlight , and VIOLA!! your much hated 3xAAA is now CR123A .

Matt


----------



## ANDREAS FERRARI

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



mmbeller191 said:


> It may be my turn to take a risk on a newly released light rather than letting someone else post a review first.



This is the first mass produced Osram that I know of-hopefully someone will purchase one and will write a review.




LukeA said:


> Short runtime could also be caused by massive current draw.



Sorry-I wasn't being clear-I meant short runtime because of overheating do to poor heatshinking.Some multi-die lights like a CL1H( if ambient temp. is high) can only run for a few minutes before there is a danger of heat damaging the LED.If this light is running on 3x18650's than I am guessing(?) a runtime of about 30min.-which is enough for me.


----------



## BrokenMosin

*Rominsen RC-G2 Problem & Solution*

I've had an interesting problem with my $11 Rominsen RC-G2 from DX.It worked flawlessly for a long time after I purchased it. Later on though it would intermittantly not work or dim/shut off when I was using it. I set it down for a few months frustrated with it.

I picked it up again a few days ago, and I found that it would work when I crossed one of the led wires to the body. I figured there was a bad connection between the screw-in aluminum light module and the aluminum body. I took a piece of thick led solder and rubbed it on the flashlight threads to build up some lead shavings in them, then carefully screwed the light module back in.

So far it works perfectly and flawlessly.

I love that little light.

Update - didn't work. Same problem resurfaced - it comes on again when I strike it face down on my palm. What could be doing this?


----------



## boomhauer

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

old4570, I'm pretty certain I saw a new rack of those same 9-led 3-AAA flashlights in my local Office Depot for $4 each - same fluting on the head, but no colored barrel. My first thought was "what alternative led and reflector could fit in it?". Seemed like a good basis for a possible modification.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



boomhauer said:


> old4570, I'm pretty certain I saw a new rack of those same 9-led 3-AAA flashlights in my local Office Depot for $4 each - same fluting on the head, but no colored barrel. My first thought was "what alternative led and reflector could fit in it?". Seemed like a good basis for a possible modification.



Thats what I thought ! , only the pill that holds the LED is just a tube machined to hold the star at the very edge . You would need to set up some sort of heatsinking for a cree .

I had the same problem with my little luxeon 1 x CR123A twisty , that I moded to 5 mode Cree Q5 , the pill was just a hollow tube , no effective heatsinking at all . It can be done , but there is just that little extra difficulty .

Matt


----------



## ming560

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



ANDREAS FERRARI said:


> This is the first mass produced Osram that I know of-hopefully someone will purchase one and will write a review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry-I wasn't being clear-I meant short runtime because of overheating do to poor heatshinking.Some multi-die lights like a CL1H( if ambient temp. is high) can only run for a few minutes before there is a danger of heat damaging the LED.If this light is running on 3x18650's than I am guessing(?) a runtime of about 30min.-which is enough for me.


 
I had a chance to meet the RL-2088, can show you some photo:


























2088 with Ultrafire：WF-2000L，WF-1300L 和 WF-1200L











2088 reflector：








light beam around 1M:





When you switch on about 30 mins., it will be around 40 ~ 50 degree C.
Hope you like the photo!
I hear that it will be on store around the end of May.


----------



## Creecher

*Cheap AA Flashlight recommendation*

I've been asked to get a cheap, but good AA torch for someone. It can be one or two cell, single mode or hi/lo, and cost no more than $30. As I'm UK, I'm thinking DealExtreme. 

I think 2 cells would be best, but it needs to be good, cheap and uncomplicated. Recommendations please.


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: Cheap AA Flashlight recommendation*

The Romisen RC-N3 springs to mind. The brighter Q5 version from shiningbeam might still be in your budget with shipping -CPF discount.


----------



## Wiggle

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Two new lights, and here's my thoughts:

*Romisen RC-N3 Q5 from SB*
-Feels solid for a cheap light
-Forward switch feels very good 
-2 modes are around 50 lumens and 150 lumens, good for general use
-Came lubed
-Won't tailstand
-Somewhat big for a 2xAA, head is big, body is a little longer than my L2D and considerably thicker

Overall great light that I'm gifting to my grandfather, I wanted something simple, easy to hold and using easy to find fuel.

*AKOray K109a from KD*
-Excellent build quality, feels like a mid-priced light, not a $20 one.
-Switch is tight but feels positive
-Came dry
-Tailstands with a tiny bit of wobble
-100% output looks to be around 170 lumens or so
-"0%" output looks around 5-8 lumens
-Throws surprisingly well for a small light
-One weird bug, when you turn it on after a long duration of being off, it takes about 1 second before responding to mode changes. Not sure if this is normal or not?
-Pulls about 890mA on 100% and lasted 30 mins on a Trustfire 16340 before dropping to a lower output.

Normally I EDC my Fenix E01 in my jeans pocket and my Solarforce L2 (in some configuration) in my jacket but with summer coming I'm going to try this as my EDC for a while. The programming is not too hard at all. I find (on mine at least) I can get the lowest output by confirming the selection before the actual ramp up starts, and the 100% is easy too because after the ramp it blinks and holds the 100% for a little. The only guesswork is the middle, but I just experimented 3 or 4 times and then got a good setting of around 50 lumens. A good way to do it is to set up another light with a level you'd like to match and then aim them at the same wall and capture the setting when they look close to the same. The number of things this light gets "right" for only $20 is really impressive.


----------



## Creecher

*Re: Cheap AA Flashlight recommendation*



Zatoichi said:


> The Romisen RC-N3 springs to mind. The brighter Q5 version from shiningbeam might still be in your budget with shipping -CPF discount.


 
Seems that runtimes are good from AA lights, so now looking for a single AA, uncomplicated light, with plenty of sidespill. It's being used for night walking and bug hunting, so flood not throw.
The Romisen RC-G2 Q5 that I have seen at Shining Beam says it offers good side-spill, and is a great price.

Good??


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: Cheap AA Flashlight recommendation*



Creecher said:


> The Romisen RC-G2 Q5 that I have seen at Shining Beam says it offers good side-spill, and is a great price.
> 
> Good??



For the money I think it's excellent (I have the DX one). While it has useable spill, it's quite a throw-heavy light. You can adjust the focus to some extent by twisting the head, but not a great deal. Still, I think it'd do the job, and it's my second favourite budget light.


----------



## Creecher

*Re: Cheap AA Flashlight recommendation*



Zatoichi said:


> For the money I think it's excellent (I have the DX one). While it has useable spill, it's quite a throw-heavy light. You can adjust the focus to some extent by twisting the head, but not a great deal. Still, I think it'd do the job, and it's my second favourite budget light.


 
Anything more floody spring to mind? I just ordered one of the Tank007s that looks to be all flood from the shots, but it's CR123a, so not suitable.


----------



## alohaluau

*Re: Cheap AA Flashlight recommendation*



Creecher said:


> Anything more floody spring to mind?



Hi Creecher,

I have the SAIK RC-A3 (I think SAIK and Romisen are one and the same), it has a shallower and smaller head, and is more floody than the RC-G2 which I have as well :laughing:.

Another similar model is the Romisen RC-H3, slightly cheaper than the RC-A3.

I think I might wishlist that one! 

Cheers,
Luau


----------



## mrwojcik

*Remote Pressure Switch available for Romisen RC-N3?*

I've been trying to track down an answer either way and so far have had no luck.

I wish to locate a remote pressure switch that will work with the Romisen RC-N3. Does anyone know if one exists and, if so, where to find one?

I'm new here but this looks like an excellent resource.


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: Cheap AA Flashlight recommendation*



Creecher said:


> Anything more floody spring to mind? I just ordered one of the Tank007s that looks to be all flood from the shots, but it's CR123a, so not suitable.



I don't know of any good budget single AA's that are floody. The nearest I have is a Nitecore D10 but that's way over budget. There must be some, but I haven't come across them. :shrug:


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Oh, there you go! The RC-H3 sounds ideal, and I may have to try one myself.


----------



## clint eastwood

*Want to buy kit, don't know which one to get*

I'm new to this. I want a small LED flashlight. Around the size of my Inova XO3 would be fine. I would prefer to use 2xAA, if you think I can. Otherwise, I guess I can use the 18650 battery that seems popular with lights. As an example of a light I like, is the Fenix LD20, but I would prefer to make one. 


Maybe one of these? 

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15944

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15945

What else do I need to do make the light complete? I didn't see any sticky. Also, my budget isn't much. It's probably going to be a gift for my brother who is graduating from ASU this year. $40 or less probably.


----------



## baterija

*Re: Cheap AA Flashlight recommendation*

The RC-H3 also has a forward click switch and is available in a Q5 version from shiningbeam.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Well , been ho-n-and-a-hum-n over the Ultrafire A20 , today I gave in and ordered one , since DX is slow again [ R2 pill + SSC P7 LED ] , I decided to give the money to KD . 

Looks like a very nice EDC , and since I gave my Cree Q3 6 mode to my Mum , Ive been looking for a replacement .


----------



## ecotack

*Please talk me out of it (Ultrafire WF-008 Recoil Thrower)*

I have already spent more than I should this month (7x12 lathe due any day now) and then I spot the Ultrafire WF-008 Recoil Thrower. I already have a variety of torches, from single CR123 3W to 5xR2's in a 2D Mag, but this one is so much different. I need some good reasons why not to buy.

_not sure why my post was moved here?_


----------



## boomhauer

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



old4570 said:


> since DX is slow again ... I decided to give the money to KD .


My last order from KD took a week and a half to arrive - not too bad. Just placed an order with DX last night for a bunch of white and UV fauxtons, and some gadgets for the kids. I hope they arrive before summer.


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



boomhauer said:


> Just placed an order with DX last night for a bunch of white and UV fauxtons, and some gadgets for the kids. I hope they arrive before summer.



Lately DX have been amazingly fast to the UK. My last two orders arrived within one week of ordering.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Some times DX is fast , best time 5 Days from order ..
KD has also done 5 days from order , Solarforcestore 4 Days , ordered a L2 Saturday , got it Tuesday . 

Longest DX , over a month for drivers .
KD , ?? I think it was 3 weeks and they canceled the order and refunded my money . 

Its been over a week for the R2 pill and a SSC P7 LED and the order is still listed as pending .... So its going to be how long ? 

But the king is Bestofferbuy , 2 months so far for 2 drivers .


----------



## boomhauer

*Re: New CREE Q5 AKOray K-102*



BurlyEd said:


> Thanks for the tip. Click! Ordered.


Guess I'll post here since the AKOray Runtime thread appears to have been corrupted. I was looking closely at the new KD photos of the new K-102 Cree, and saw that although it's being sold as a K-102, it's clearly marked on the side as "K-103". Also, the voltage specs on the barrel are the familiar "0.7V - 4.5V". So that might help answer your earlier question about voltage specs.

I have a new-found interest in the K-109a, the single CR123 version of these lights. It is quite compact and appears more edc-able than the K-106, despite being only slightly wider. Plus it has all the same other goodies as the K-106.

Anyone care to chime in on the K-109a? I already have a few CR123s rolling around, so batteries aren't an issue. It's also interesting that DX advertises this light as having a Q2, whereas KD markets it as a Q5 for less $.


----------



## s.c.

*Re: New CREE Q5 AKOray K-102*



boomhauer said:


> Guess I'll post here since the AKOray Runtime thread appears to have been corrupted. I was looking closely at the new KD photos of the new K-102 Cree, and saw that although it's being sold as a K-102, it's clearly marked on the side as "K-103". Also, the voltage specs on the barrel are the familiar "0.7V - 4.5V". So that might help answer your earlier question about voltage specs.
> 
> I have a new-found interest in the K-109a, the single CR123 version of these lights. It is quite compact and appears more edc-able than the K-106, despite being only slightly wider. Plus it has all the same other goodies as the K-106.
> 
> Anyone care to chime in on the K-109a? I already have a few CR123s rolling around, so batteries aren't an issue. It's also interesting that DX advertises this light as having a Q2, whereas KD markets it as a Q5 for less $.



I just received a 109 the other day. In stock form, I'd imagine that using the recessed clicky would be difficult in such a small form factor. I swap out the tailcaps immediately on these akorays. It no longer tailstands, but it is much easier to operate (and the black looks nicer too). 

Someone else mentioned that their 109 gets hot on the highest output setting. Mine does too, yet my 106 on 14500 does not get warm at all. I don't know if this is desirable, or this indicates a lack of heat sinking. 

If you're going to carry the light loose in the pocket, the 109 is the way to go. If you're going clip it to a pocket, I think the 106 is better.


----------



## boomhauer

*Re: New CREE Q5 AKOray K-102*



s.c. said:


> I just received a 109 the other day. In stock form, I'd imagine that using the recessed clicky would be difficult in such a small form factor. I swap out the tailcaps immediately on these akorays. It no longer tailstands, but it is much easier to operate (and the black looks nicer too).
> 
> Someone else mentioned that their 109 gets hot on the highest output setting. Mine does too, yet my 106 on 14500 does not get warm at all. I don't know if this is desirable, or this indicates a lack of heat sinking.
> 
> If you're going to carry the light loose in the pocket, the 109 is the way to go. If you're going clip it to a pocket, I think the 106 is better.


 
The tailcap swap sounds like a good idea. Do you get them from DX?

I see what you're saying with carry - the thinner light is more suited to ride high, even though it's longer. I'd actually prefer to carry an edc clipped to my pocket, with the light inside. But I was also thinking that the K-109 stands a better chance of fitting inside the front change pocket on a pair of jeans. Might be a stretch, though...


----------



## Wiggle

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

I've been carrying the K109a for the last couple nights and I think it's going to stay there for a while. I was worried that it was going to be too thick but it seems ok, I clip it and let the light sit inside my pocket. I don't even really notice it at all like this and it is easy to pull out when I need it. On my low-mode I still have all the run time (well longer) of my E01 so no loss there and I also have the option to blast medium output for a couple hours or high output for about 30 mins. The k109 is practically identical thickness to the Fenix L2D/P2D head and length wise looks to be between P1D and P2D thanks to having a compact switch. The switch is fine for me, it just requires a firm push in the right spot. It's a bit trickier than a typical switch but not bad at all for me. I'd prefer to keep this because I love the tail standing.


----------



## boomhauer

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

True, to put it in perspective, the difference in width between the AA and CR123 versions is less than 1 mm - if you believe DX's caliper readings.

I also wonder if the beam profile is any different between the two units, i.e. if they share the same head.


----------



## Creecher

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



Zatoichi said:


> Oh, there you go! The RC-H3 sounds ideal, and I may have to try one myself.


 
I went for the RC-G2 as it's this weeks special at Shining Beam, and according to the blurb, has 40% more sidespill than the previous model. 

But I may still get a RC-H3 as my first AA, I like this budget light thing.


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



Creecher said:


> I went for the RC-G2 as it's this weeks special at Shining Beam, and according to the blurb, has 40% more sidespill than the previous model.
> 
> But I may still get a RC-H3 as my first AA, I like this budget light thing.



I don't think you can go far wrong with the RC-G2. Even though it's throwy, the spill on even the DX version is usable, so the Q5 version should be fine. I nearly ordered a RC-H3 today but ended up going for the RC-F4 instead. This will be my 4th Romisen, and I've nothing but praise for them so far.


----------



## oronocova

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



Wiggle said:


> ...
> *AKOray K109a from KD*
> ...
> -One weird bug, when you turn it on after a long duration of being off, it takes about 1 second before responding to mode changes. Not sure if this is normal or not?
> ...



I'm not sure if that is "normal," I don't consider it normal. That said; mine does the same thing.  I had not yet figured out that it was a 1 second delay. I just thought it was buggy. Now that you mention it I think it is just a delay and most times I am impatient and trying to change before this delay ends.


----------



## s.c.

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



oronocova said:


> I'm not sure if that is "normal," I don't consider it normal. That said; mine does the same thing.  I had not yet figured out that it was a 1 second delay. I just thought it was buggy. Now that you mention it I think it is just a delay and most times I am impatient and trying to change before this delay ends.



Both my 109 and 106 have this delay.


----------



## BurlyEd

*Re: New CREE Q5 AKOray K-102*



boomhauer said:


> Guess I'll post here since the AKOray Runtime thread appears to have been corrupted. I was looking closely at the new KD photos of the new K-102 Cree, and saw that although it's being sold as a K-102, it's clearly marked on the side as "K-103". Also, the voltage specs on the barrel are the familiar "0.7V - 4.5V". So that might help answer your earlier question about voltage specs.
> 
> I have a new-found interest in the K-109a, the single CR123 version of these lights. It is quite compact and appears more edc-able than the K-106, despite being only slightly wider. Plus it has all the same other goodies as the K-106.
> 
> Anyone care to chime in on the K-109a? I already have a few CR123s rolling around, so batteries aren't an issue. It's also interesting that DX advertises this light as having a Q2, whereas KD markets it as a Q5 for less $.


I saw the new pictures when I learned that my K-103 shipped today!

I have a K-109a from KD. It seems functionally identical to the K-106 from DX. 
I still like my UF A30 with its handy GITD tailcap too, for $13.47. 
The A30 modes are med, low, hi, strobe and a proper SOS. No memory.
DX offers a 6-mode Q2 K-109, but I do not think they are shipping 3-mode programmable Q5 K-109a's yet.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Ultrafire 502B R2 

I did it at last , I swapped the driver out for a SSC P7 MC-E driver . http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1845
I took out the 8.4v 5 mode driver , which was doing 0.81A - o.91A at the tail , and with the new driver its doing 1.31A at the tail . [ 18650 ] 

Light box readings before were in the 11,000 + lux range , its now doing 14,000+ Lux
Bear in mind , both my Good L2 R2's are in the 12,000Lux area , so the 502B now kicks *** ...


----------



## Wiggle

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

For anyone curious, current draw on AKOray k109a:

With relatively fresh 4.07V Ultrafire 880mAh 16340

Low: 38mA
Mid: 280 mA
High: 850mA

Now the mid is one I just eye-ball programmed myself at around 60 lumens or so so it's not repeatable by other people but the low is the lowest low and high is the 100%.


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Anyone have this light....
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18473


Curious... can you combine multiple lights and double stack the body tube segments into a 2x18650 arrangement?

Conversely, can you omit the body tube and attach the switch cap directly onto the bezel adapter piece to create a 1x16340 setup?

thanks!!


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



kramer5150 said:


> Anyone have this light....
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18473
> 
> 
> Curious... can you combine multiple lights and double stack the body tube segments into a 2x18650 arrangement?
> 
> Conversely, can you omit the body tube and attach the switch cap directly onto the bezel adapter piece to create a 1x16340 setup?
> 
> thanks!!



Solarforce L2 can be extended to 2 x 18650 , I have one such L2 set up .


----------



## Wiggle

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



old4570 said:


> Solarforce L2 can be extended to 2 x 18650 , I have one such L2 set up .



Me too, it feels good and has killer runtime.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*


----------



## adder

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



old4570 said:


> Ultrafire 502B R2
> 
> I did it at last , I swapped the driver out for a SSC P7 MC-E driver . http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1845
> I took out the 8.4v 5 mode driver , which was doing 0.81A - o.91A at the tail , and with the new driver its doing 1.31A at the tail . [ 18650 ]
> 
> Light box readings before were in the 11,000 + lux range , its now doing 14,000+ Lux
> Bear in mind , both my Good L2 R2's are in the 12,000Lux area , so the 502B now kicks *** ...


 
hi since u have both can u tell me in their stock form which is better between the 502b and solarforce L2 in light output and which do u prefer and why.


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

*UPDATE*
- My KD order of *AKOray K-102 CREE Q5 1-Mode* has been shipped!
- I should have it hopefully within a week or two.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



adder said:


> hi since u have both can u tell me in their stock form which is better between the 502b and solarforce L2 in light output and which do u prefer and why.



8.4v 5 mode with memory = 502B I say this because the Solarforce R2 pills in this voltage range are not any brighter , and cost $6 USD more . $19 for 502B 5 mode with memory VS $25 for a L2 .

But if you get the 18650 body L2 with the 3.7-4.2v 5mode Pill , then this is the best factory combination I know off , for cheap lights with a 18650 batt . 

Matt


----------



## CampingLED

*Modded my UF C3 SS this weekend (again)*

Modded my Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel flashlight this weekend for a 2nd time and I am very, very pleased with the result. The 1st time it was modded was just to get it working.

This light initially had a problem and the driver, as well as switch popped when tested with an unprotected 14500 battery.

This weekend I replaced the emitter with a R2 Cree (donor was an unused 11836 P60 drop-in). The circuit was replaced with a 2 x 7135 board, driving it @ 700mA. Beam pattern and intensity is to the naked eye exactly the same as my son's TR-801 Trustfire. :huh:


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: Modded my UF C3 SS this weekend (again)*



CampingLED said:


> Modded my Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel flashlight this weekend for a 2nd time and I am very, very pleased with the result. The 1st time it was modded was just to get it working.
> 
> This light initially had a problem and the driver, as well as switch popped when tested with an unprotected 14500 battery.
> 
> This weekend I replaced the emitter with a R2 Cree (donor was an unused 11836 P60 drop-in). The circuit was replaced with a 2 x 7135 board, driving it @ 700mA. Beam pattern and intensity is to the naked eye exactly the same as my son's TR-801 Trustfire. :huh:



:twothumbs
How is the thermal performance at 700mah? Does it get warm when left on over an extended period?


----------



## CampingLED

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Did not test it for extended periods. Thermal considerations are the main reason why I only went for 700mA. Will let you know later today.


----------



## CampingLED

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Was quite hot after 10 minutes. Turned it off since I do not believe in testing lights until it burns your hand. Will probably reach that stage after 20 minutes. Even got hot fairly quick in the past with the P4 Cree. The disadvantage of the stainless steel is that it does not get rid of the heat as fast as aluminium.

I love this light.


----------



## BIGLOU

*Recieved some Spiderfire goodness*

I just recieved my Spiderfire X666 from HK. This is the HA one. I like the modes, but hate the reverse clicky. I have to get some lube because it came pretty dry. It came with a holster and three spiderfire CR123 batteries. I have my share of Surefires, but this one is great for the money,


----------



## curiousone1

*Review: Ultrafire C1 R2-WC 5-Mode Mem 250-LM LED Flashlight*

The postman dropped off my new “*Ultrafire C1 R2-WC 5-Mode Memory 250-LM LED Flashlight with 2*Assault Crowns (2*CR123A/1*18650)”.* I have been EDC-ing it for about two weeks. Let me start by saying, “No, it’s not a Fenix or a Nitecore or a Surefire, but for the price I paid, I will not have as much heartburn if it gets lost, stolen or misused.”

Initial impression when seeing it for the first time:
Nicely weighted/balanced
Coating is even – not spotty or blotched
Came with crenellated SS “Assault” bezel installed
Came with small plastic bag containing plastic lens retaining ring (also known as “regular smooth bezel crown”)

Detailed inspection:
Looking at the C1, this appears to be a well made light. Disassembled light and inspected. Threads are tight, o-rings and threads came lightly lubed. The P60 drop-in has an aluminum textured/OP reflector– excess silver coating needed to be brushed away. Body core is bored out a little off center, but still solid. The clip is sturdy and feels strong, but does not appear to be anodized like the C1 body. The C1 is supposed to tailstand, but did so wobbly. Disassembly of the tailcap is easy – getting a pair of needle-nose pliers and turning retaining ring until it comes out will reveal the switch and rubber switch boot. Removed switch and boot – reinserting only until switch is torqued down and does not rattle. It no longer sticks out from end of tailcap and now tailstands correctly.

Use:
Inserting two protected RCR123s (Ultrafire), the light closes without issue. Pushing the reverse clicky switch, unit started in high mode. Switching modes is easy – just lightly press switch to advance (ramping down) to medium, low, strobe and SOS (actually what comes out is S-O – pause, S-O-pause).

Beam is good, with a strong hotspot and adequate flood – without being “ringy”. Throw is decent – at night, I was able to light up trees 2 or 3 houses down. It is listed at 250 lumens maximum brightness (manufacturer rated). It is much brighter than my 80 lumen light (that used to live in the holster I now use for THIS light) or my 145 1xRCR123 EDC.

Bottom line: 
Solid flashlight with good compromise between throw and flood. It would seem it would make a very good P60 host.


----------



## adder

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



old4570 said:


> 8.4v 5 mode with memory = 502B I say this because the Solarforce R2 pills in this voltage range are not any brighter , and cost $6 USD more . $19 for 502B 5 mode with memory VS $25 for a L2 .
> 
> But if you get the 18650 body L2 with the 3.7-4.2v 5mode Pill , then this is the best factory combination I know off , for cheap lights with a 18650 batt .
> 
> Matt


 
thanks you for replying.
but the 18650 body L2 with 3.7-4.2v pill did u mean the UltraFire version or the SolarForce version of L2.


----------



## frankiej

*Aurora X-06-3*

I just received the Aurora X-06-3. This is the crazy person's flashlight seen here: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.20760

I love this light so far. It's an awesome P-60 host. The main body unscrews into 3 different pieces, giving you a 1,2 or 3 cell option. You can also make it into a 2 cell light either with or without the grip ring. I was put off at first by the toothsome appearance, but it seems to be very versatile. It feels really stout and beefy, with lots of aluminum left on the body. It looks like you would have plenty of material to bore it out to 19mm I.D. if you so desired.

The drop-in is very bright, and one of the whitest that I've seen (whiter and brighter than my Malkoff M-60, although probably not as well constructed). 

The really cool thing about it is that all the threads are Surefire/Solarforce compatible. This means the section with the grip ring can be used on a 6P as a cool looking extender, all Solarforce heads screw on (in case you don't like the big teeth on the stock head), Solarforce and Surefire switches fit on it,etc. The only oddity I've found is that Solarforce bezel rings don't screw into the stock head, being slightly too large, but the Surefire plastic bezel ring does screw in, so that's another option in case it's too toothy. I tried the Aurora strike bezel on a Surefire, and it screws in, but the outside diameter is too large (it doesn't look quite right) 

I replaced the stock switch with a Fenix forward clicky without incident (dropped right in, only requiring slight trimming of the tailcap rubber). 

All DX/KD type drop-ins I tried in it worked well with no gaps or contact problems. My Malkoff M-60 would not work. I believe the space in the head is too long (it rattled around even after fully tightening the head down). Perhaps with a spacer of some sort it could be made to work, but stock it's a no-go.

It seems to be a really versatile light overall, and well constructed. Definitely on par with Solarforce. 

Also, it appears to be identical to the Spiderfire X666 reviewed above, without the HA. The Spiderfire X666 is available on the Bay, and it comes with a more subdued strike bezel included.


----------



## BurlyEd

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

I just received my AKOray K-103 CREE Q4 (or Q5?) AAA/10440 from KD.
It is *much *brighter and whiter with a old Akaline AAA than a K-102 with a 10440. With a 10440 in the 103, it is about as bright as a WF-602C or A40 on medium and has a similar beam. The biggest difference is the tint - the 103 is cooler - but not blueish like the 102.

I also received a second K-102 from DX a week ago. It has a whiter beam than the first K-102, but the same brightness. But who cares? I think the K-103 is easily worth the extra $5 over the K-102. The K-103 will live in my shirt pocket. I will probably switch from the 10440 to a Duraloop in the K-103 after I am through showing off.

:twothumbs


----------



## boomhauer

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



BurlyEd said:


> I just received my AKOray K-103 CREE Q4 (or Q5?) AAA/10440 from KD.
> It is *much *brighter and whiter with a old Akaline AAA than a K-102 with a 10440. With a 10440 in the 103, it is about as bright as a WF-602C or A40 on medium and has a similar beam. The biggest difference is the tint - the 103 is cooler - but not blueish like the 102.
> 
> I also received a second K-102 from DX a week ago. It has a whiter beam than the first K-102, but the same brightness. But who cares? I think the K-103 is easily worth the extra $5 over the K-102. The K-103 will live in my shirt pocket. I will probably switch from the 10440 to a Duraloop in the K-103 after I am through showing off.
> 
> :twothumbs


 
Velly intellesting... so there's another AKOray I need to get. I'm very happy with the K-102, and it sounds like the K-103 retains all the same good features while being _much _brighter.

Would a beamshot comparison be possible?


----------



## Brian5

*Romisen RC-N3 II Cree Q5 2-Mode LED Flashlight vs Brinkman MaxFire*

I was hoping someone would have some info on the comparison between the two. I have the MaxFire and I want to replace it with the Romisen RC-N3 II but not if the outputs are around the same. Just wondering how different they could be with both being around $20-$25.

Any info would be great.


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: n00b question: Ultrafire C3 6 mode?*



Oddjob said:


> Welcome to CPF! FYI, next time just edit your original thread instead of starting a new one if you want to add information. It keeps things more organized and the moderators won't have to close your original thread. Good luck finding what you are looking for.


 
The thread gets closed and new one is opened as it becomes too big. 
As it becomes pages and pages of replies, mod will create a new one.
This current thread is now quite long so it's not long until it's closed also. =P

*UPDATE*
- I've received *AKOray K-103 CREE Q5 1-Mode *from KD.
- Although it's 1 mode, it's one very nice flashlight.
- Double o-rings, soft and quiet forward-clicky. Nice clean beam.
- I get about 140 lux in the new light box. (around 100 lumens imo)
- I took some beam shots and kitchen photos already.
- I'll post up a review hopefully by the weekend. =)


----------



## s.c.

*Re: n00b question: Ultrafire C3 6 mode?*



bessiebenny said:


> The thread gets closed and new one is opened as it becomes too big.
> As it becomes pages and pages of replies, mod will create a new one.
> This current thread is now quite long so it's not long until it's closed also. =P
> 
> *UPDATE*
> - I've received *AKOray K-103 CREE Q5 1-Mode *from KD.
> - Although it's 1 mode, it's one very nice flashlight.
> - Double o-rings, soft and quiet forward-clicky. Nice clean beam.
> - I get about 140 lux in the new light box. (around 100 lumens imo)
> - I took some beam shots and kitchen photos already.
> - I'll post up a review hopefully by the weekend. =)



Forward clicky?! Now I really can't wait for mine! I had always assumed it was a reverse clicky.


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: n00b question: Ultrafire C3 6 mode?*



s.c. said:


> Forward clicky?! Now I really can't wait for mine! I had always assumed it was a reverse clicky.


 
Yup. I was surprised also. AKOray is definitely making a name for itself.
btw, it also says 0.7v - 4.5v DC. I might buy some 10440 to test with. =)
It is long for a AAA light though. About same length as AKOray K-106 AA.

I personally still like the Kaidomain's own Buckle V5 Cree Q5 XRT more.
HAIII, reliable twisty, shorter, can tail stand and more keychain friendly.
But this AKORay K-103 Q5 has different merits so can't fault it really.


----------



## s.c.

*Re: n00b question: Ultrafire C3 6 mode?*



bessiebenny said:


> Yup. I was surprised also. AKOray is definitely making a name for itself.
> btw, it also says 0.7v - 4.5v DC. I might buy some 10440 to test with. =)



I just ordered a second one, even though I haven't received my first one yet (should be here early next week) based on my previous experience with akoray and your initial thoughts.


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

*Some new pics!!*

I will put them in to the right reviews later on. =)
btw, the wall shots are now different to before.
It's shot at ISO 100 and 200 @ F2.8 1/100. (1 stop apart)

*[AKOray K-103 Q5 AAA 1-mode]*
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/2327/img7770akorayk103q5aaan.jpg (NiMH)
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/5894/img7774akorayk103q5aaaa.jpg (Alkaline)
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/2521/img7780akorayk103q5aaan.jpg (iso200)
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/8286/img7781akorayk103q5aaan.jpg (iso100)

*[**MTE SF-22 SSC P7-D-SXO 5-Mode**] -* Now modded to 1-mode 18650 Direct Drive
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/7919/img7778mtesscp7d18650di.jpg
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/9792/img7784mtesscp7d18650di.jpg (iso200)
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/5148/img7785mtesscp7d18650di.jpg (iso100)

*[**Kaidomain 2-Mode HAIII Long Throw Q5**]*
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/59/img7782kdlongthrowq5186.jpg (iso200)
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/9351/img7783kdlongthrowq5186.jpg (iso100)


----------



## frankiej

*Kaidomain TLS T-1 and T-3*

I just received the KD TLS T-1 shown here:
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=7339

This is a really nice light for the price. It is kind of a poor-boy's E1-L. The biggest plus (for me anyway) is the forward clicky. This is not a P-60 host, as I originally hoped, but the pills from all the DX P-60 modules I tried do thread into the reflector, allowing plenty of flexibility. The head is interchangable with my SF E1-L, and the head from my E1-L also works on the T-1 body. The pocket clip is very securely mounted (much like a E series clip, sliding into a machined groove). IT is sort of like the clip on a SF E1-B,allowing bezel up or down carry, but it works bezel down better than bezel up. This is due to the lack of bend in the part of the clip that allows this method of carry, and also due to the bezel-heavy nature of the light. It comes in a classy looking box with the TLS logo and OpticsHQ web address on it, with lots of foam around it and a spare forward clicky included.

I also received the KD TLS T-3 
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=7341
This is also a very nice light for the money. It kind of reminds me of my friends Fenix TK10, without the grip ring. It also has a forward clicky. It is a P-60 host as well. The pocket clip is very nice, mounted with some sharp looking allen-head screws, and it is mounted in a pocket on the body that is shaped like the base of the clip, which should eliminate any loosening from side to side motion. It has some "fins" around the switch that allow it to tailstand while turned on. Really high quality construction wit hnice threads. The threads match up with the Solarforce L-2 head that I tried on it. It came with a 5 mode memory drop in though, not the single mode listed on the website (but it came with a forward clicky instead of the reverse listed, so I'm happy  It also came in the aforementioned box with a spare switch included. I would think that this light would cost WAY more than it did.


----------



## jonnyfgroove

*Maratac 9290 single AA*

I searched and couldn't find any info on this light. Anyone have one? It looks real decent for the price. I apologize in advance if this is old news to you guys.


----------



## alohaluau

*Re: Maratac 9290 single AA*



jonnyfgroove said:


> I searched and couldn't find any info on this light. Anyone have one? It looks real decent for the price. I apologize in advance if this is old news to you guys.



It looks like the 3W 1xAA 190-lm multilevel iTP C7 Tactical, in fact, I think it is identical...


----------



## jonnyfgroove

*Re: Maratac 9290 single AA*



alohaluau said:


> It looks like the 3W 1xAA 190-lm multilevel iTP C7 Tactical, in fact, I think it is identical...



It sure does. Cool, I can read the review now. :thanks:


----------



## Mundele

*Flickering and Dim Romisen RC-G2...*

How do I fix this light? It's very dim and flickers pretty badly. bumping it makes it flicker more. I'm sure It's a short but don't know how to get to it to fix it. I can get to the emitter end and it looks fine.

--Matt


----------



## FLT MEDIC

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



old4570 said:


> 8.4v 5 mode with memory = 502B I say this because the Solarforce R2 pills in this voltage range are not any brighter , and cost $6 USD more . $19 for 502B 5 mode with memory VS $25 for a L2 .
> 
> But if you get the 18650 body L2 with the 3.7-4.2v 5mode Pill , then this is the best factory combination I know off , for cheap lights with a 18650 batt .
> 
> Matt


 
There's a 18650 only UltraFire WF-502B Cree R2-WC 3-Mode 250-Lumen LED Flashlight with Clip (1*18650) $18.50 16516 if 3 modes would be good enough.


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

*★★★★★ AKOray K-103 Q5 AAA 1-mode *KD / DX (Posted on May 15th 2009)
*Throw @ 1m: 810 lux *(1AAA NiMh @ 1.4v) (Same with Alkaline)
*New Lightbox: 135 lux *(1AAA NiMh @ 1.41v) (Same with Alkaline)

*First Impressions: *
- Slightly long but slim and nice looking AAA flashlight with a clicky switch.
- My sample says 0.7-4.5v DC K-103 on the side. AKOray on the other.

*Build Quality: *
- Defined square threads! Similar to Jetbeam's. Very nice quality. 
- But it came with no lubing. So isn't as smooth as it can be.
- Fairly smoothly textured OP aluminium reflector. Fairly deep also.
- FORWARD clicky switch. Non-standard switch module. 
- Has a smooth and soft feel to the switch. Very quiet also.
- There is a small spring at the switch end inside the battery tube.
- Double red o-rings for the main battery tube thread. 
- O-rings also in switch/tail module and also infront of glass lense.
- It's not HA-III anodized. But has a nice quality gray-green anodizing.
- No ugly anodizing, no sign of any bad soldering. Overall, good finish.
- Comes with a metal side clip. It is easily removable by unscrewing tail.
- Metal clip came with a rubber-sleeve to prevent scratches on the body.
- Excellent quality diamond knurlings in the entire battery tube barrel also.
- It's not slippery although it's not as rough as Nitecore knurlings.
- Light engine pill is can be unscrewd and taken out if desired.
- It's one of the longer slim AAA flashlights. Similar length to K-106 AA.

*Light Output:*
- Has a nice round beam with bright hotspot. Beam tint is cool white on mine.
- Spill is wide enough and still bright to be very useful.
- Overall, the beam is quite clean and smooth. Nothing ugly about it.
- As you can see from output results, it's bright with AAA.
- I don't have a 10440 to test with unfortunately. Will get some soon.

*In Use: *
- Forward clicky is a surprise. It's very easy to use momentarily.
- Switch does require a failry deep press for permanent on. 
- Also, mine gets stuck! Sometimes, it doesn't come back out. (So I can't turn it off)
- I think it has to do with either the rubber clicky or how it's sitting inside.
- As you can see from photos, the switch isn't fixed securely. So it shifts when clicked. Needs a bit of securing after purchase.
- There is no proper LANYARD HOLE. This might be a big negative to many.
- But as some advised, you can take side clip out and use the two holes.
- Doesn't get hot when using it with AA NiMh.
- This light only has 1 mode. It's good for some. Not good for others.

*Conclusion: *
- Other than the switch sticking issue, it's excellent. Hope it's only mine with this issue.
- No final conclusion yet as I haven't done the runtime tests. Soon.
- But if you do want a forward clicky 1 mode AAA light. This is a must.
- I gave it 5 stars and not 6 as the switch isn't so good. Maybe it needs a bit of modding. =P

*[PHOTOS]*

- Nice diamond knurlings on the body.






- Positive contact inside the battery tube.





- Switch and switch module.





- Switch module. Easily taken out as it's not glued.





*[RUNTIME]*







*[BEAM SHOTS]*

New Kitchen @ ISO 800 F2.8 1/25sec





Wall Beam @ ISO 200 F2.8 1/100sec





Wall Beam @ ISO 100 F2.8 1/100sec (1 stop darker)


----------



## bessiebenny

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

- Re-posting to add thew wall beam shots. Will update main page link to point to this review - 

*★★★★ Kaidomain 2-Mode HAIII Long Throw Q5 **KD* (Posted on Mar 15th 2009)
*Throw @ 1m: 10500 lux *(high)* 1200 lux *(low) (1 x 18650 @ 4.15v) 
*New Lightbox: 340 lux *(high)* 47 lux *(low)(1 x 18650 @ 4.15v) 

New lightbox results to compare for now: 
- Nitecore D10 = 250 lux (on high)
- Fenix E01 = 14 lux
- Romisen RC-G2 Q5 = 120 lux 
- Romisen RC-F4 Q5 = 440 lux
- Eastward YJ-XAQ5 = 500 lux (on high)
- Blaze 1Watt = 180 lux (on high) 100 lux (on low)

*Intro*
- It's Kaidomain's own Dereelight-like thrower. (sku: S004798)
- Well built, has 2-mode with memory and good throw capability.
- I have the Q5 version of this light. Expect ~10% brighter with R2.
- Price dropped to $34 as of March 21st.
- There's a cheaper alternative with a bit of less throw HERE.

*Build Quality*
- Has a similar look and feel to the Dereelight DBS V2.
- But if you look carefully, it definitely isn't as well built. =P
- Still has nice and even HAIII anodizing. Very scratch resistant.
- Deep aluminium smooth reflector. Not as reflective as DBS V2's.
- Threads are not bad. Deeper than other cheaper lights. Needs lubing.
- Threads are not anodized. Although not needed, it does act as part of circuit.
- Cree Q5 LED and driver inside a brass/copper pill similar to Dereelight.
- Spring on both sides of the battery tube. (Spring soldered on driver)
- Comes with green glow in the dark rubber clicky. 
- All threads are not glued. Can get to pill, driver, switch, reflector easily.
- Two soft edged round holes on tail end for lanyard. Good size holes.

*Light Output*
- Tight hotspot. Bit ringy around centre. Not the nicest looking but does the job still.
- Still quite bright as you can see from my output readings. (but nothing spectacular)
- Centre hotspot is very bright as expected from such deep smooth reflector. (Hole in the centre)
- Spill is still usefully bright and wide. So the output is quite versatile in use.
- Low mode is dim enough to be used closeup. It's around 30 lumens at best imo.

*In Use*
- 2-mode is High and Low. It blinks after a few seconds in either High or Low.
- Once it blinks, it remembers that mode even if you turn it off and back on.
- This is very handy. Not many 2-mode light has such feature at driver level.
- It tail stands perfectly stable as the clicky is recessed deeper than the outer tail end.
- Switch has quite a loud click sound. Louder than most that I've heard.

*Final Notes*
- This light has grown on me. (I've received this last year sometime)
- I has a memory 2 mode and tail stands which is perfect for how I use it.
- Definitely better than most 2-mode 18650 lights of this class imo.
- Eg. On - Off - On - Off. (Each On depending on how quick you do it will either cycle High/Low or stay on its last mode)
- It's not so cheap but I think it is worth what it costs. Not bad at all.
- I feel this deserves like 4.5 stars. Would have been 5 stars if below $30.

*◎**Current Measurements*
*HIGH* - 0.63A from 18650 battery
*LOW* - 0.08A from 18650 battery

*◎Photos*

- New kitchen Low and High shots using 18650.



 



Wall Beam @ ISO 200 F2.8 1/100sec





Wall Beam @ ISO 100 F2.8 1/100sec (1 stop less)





*◎Runtime*
- Initial testing shows that it drops to 50% output after about 4 hours on high.


----------



## alfreddajero

*Re: Flickering and Dim Romisen RC-G2...*

With mine i had to clean the front and rear threads with wd-40, you might want to give that a try first.


----------



## MonkRX

*Re: Flickering and Dim Romisen RC-G2...*

Also, pull the switch assembly out from the tail cap and clean that out too. 


If you want to test it without the tailcap/switch...

1. Place the Flashlight head down
2. Remove Tailcap
3. Place batteries positive side down (positive towards head)
4. Short/connect the negative side of the battery with the unpainted part of the body. (Aluminum foil works, a screwdriver placed horizontally works..). Make sure you have good constant contact...

If you followed the above and you had good constant contact your issue is either:



In the PCB
Contact issues between the pill and body (clean this out too, same procedure as removing the switch in the tailcap)
Magic!


Try a different battery too.


----------



## ergotelis

*Re: Flickering and Dim Romisen RC-G2...*

Flickering is a problem in G2, even when i cleaned it up it still had problems...


----------



## TONY M

*Re: Flickering and Dim Romisen RC-G2...*



ergotelis said:


> Flickering is a problem in G2, even when i cleaned it up it still had problems...


As far as I'm aware it is the switches that are the issue with many RC-G2s. This is the case with mine also.


----------



## atropine1

*18650 version of Romisen RC-N3*

Hi,

I love everything about the N3, the brighteness, the beam profile and the strobe & it's voltage regulation. As I run this light only on RC123A batteries the only problem I have is that there is no low mode in this configuration & the short runtime.

Anyway I would like to buy this in a 18650 version. Can anyone recommend a model from Dealextreme that functionally is very similar to the N3 but uses a 18650 batttery?

Thanks


----------



## Slash5

*Re: Flickering and Dim Romisen RC-G2...*

I had a cheap SuperBright that drove me nuts, turned out to be a couple of problems.
The switch did not have continuity unless the retainer ring was screwed down super tight and then would work but flakey. After much messing around, I found that after disassembling the switch, the round circuit board the switch was mounted on was slightly oversized for the aluminum cup it sits in. The switch would look Ok but the circuit board was sitting up on the machining chamfer between the vertical and horizontal surfaces. The plated switch connecting surface was not fully in contact, it was the board itself touching. 
I reduced the diameter by sanding the edge of the board a very small amount and got full contact. With this, the switch was reliable.

Then I found that unless the head was screwed down very tight, it flickered. After sitting for a while, even with the head very tight it started flickering. When looking in at the driver board, there were two solder blobs, I assume connecting the emitter to the driver board. The battery tube was contacting the blobs and not the plated ring on the driver board. I assume that was why the light flickered after sitting - the soft solder would compress when sitting for a while. I took a knife and cut some of the excess solder away but couldn't remove enough. I didn't want to try resoldering it as I didn't know what the connection was or how the driver/emitter connections worked.
I ended up making a copper ring of 24 gauge cross connect wire and dropping it on the driver board, then screwing the battery tube in on top.
Been 100% reliable since. Some day I'll try a mod on it.


----------



## richardcpf

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

*OH MY GOD A FAKE NITECORE EXTREME FROM KAIDOMAIN!!!*

And only $34...


----------



## boomhauer

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



richardcpf said:


> *OH MY GOD A FAKE NITECORE EXTREME FROM KAIDOMAIN!!!*
> 
> And only $34...


 
I'm not sure I'd buy it, at least from a bargain-hunter's perspective. Any reason to expect that the fake Nitecore would it be far superior to an AKOray 109a for $20?


----------



## boomhauer

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Thanks bessiebenny for the K-103 review - heck, thanks for all your reviews. Your issue with the switch underlines my only concern with this light. The switch on mine (a K-102, functionally similar) I have found to be quite "vague", meaning the clicks are not precise and positive, but mushy. It still turns the light on and off as expected, though.

The switch is probably the weakest link with the little AKOray. Although I guess you can't expect perfection with a budget light, I still wish they'd improve it. Apparently someone out there was listening to complaints about the previous flush clicky, before they switched over to the raised type. Hopefully, they are still listening.


----------



## patrickbateman

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

And have you seen the new V6 Buckle light from kaidomain ? 

What does the xp-e led add against the xr-e ?


----------



## richardcpf

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

The V6 with XP-E looks pretty sweet and should throw further than the old one... but I had a bad experience with the V4 i dropped it to the ground 3 feets high and stopped working.


----------



## DHart

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

BessieBenny... thanks from me too for your AKOray K-106 review. Encouraged by that I ordered one and could not be happier with it. These lights should make big waves in the flashlight world... excellent build, versatile, programmable, BRIGHT, good looking, and rediculously inexpensive for what you get! I like mine so much that I just ordered a K-103 as well. Thanks again.


----------



## Slash5

*Re: 18650 version of Romisen RC-N3*



atropine1 said:


> Hi,
> Can anyone recommend a model from Dealextreme that functionally is very similar to the N3 but uses a 18650 batttery?
> Thanks


 
As soon as you talk single 18650, you can't beat the Solarforce P60 lights.
Either from the Solarforce store or on Ebay. Great quality and highly configurable.
$25 for a complete light with the P60 module or $15 and you supply the P60 module. Everything from cheap single modes to better multi-modes, right up to MCE and P7. Even incandescent modules.
Other than dedicated throwers, I can't see buying any other single 18650 light.


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: 18650 version of Romisen RC-N3*



atropine1 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I love everything about the N3, the brighteness, the beam profile and the strobe & it's voltage regulation. As I run this light only on RC123A batteries the only problem I have is that there is no low mode in this configuration & the short runtime.
> 
> Anyway I would like to buy this in a 18650 version. Can anyone recommend a model from Dealextreme that functionally is very similar to the N3 but uses a 18650 batttery?
> 
> Thanks



IMHO the reflector design P60 drop ins have a very similar beam pattern to the RC-N3. So any of the 18650 / P60 hosts will suffice. From there, you will need to pick up a multi-mode drop in that meets your preferences.

The solarforce L2, 18650 bored 6P and Ultrafire 503B are good candidates IMHO. The L2 and 6P being superior to the 503B (IMHO), but all 3 are serviceable hosts. These 3 hosts have tall body tube side walls that maximize contact with the P60 module to increase thermal conductivity.

What you are looking for from the drop in is ~900mah-1A delivered to a Q5-WC XR-E emitter, that should get you ~150-170 Lumens out the front.... and multi modes set up as percentages of that. Stay away from multi-die emitters, they are much more floody than the single die designs.


----------



## jmcd

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Hello all from a brand-spanking new forum member. I have a question which I hope is appropriate for asking in this thread. I've been searching for an answer, but as of yet haven't come up with anything.

I recently bought a SuperFire C1 (sku 14899) from DX. I purchased it with eyes wide open after having read some opinions on the brand and the light, and am generally pleased with the purchase. It is a serviceable, bright P60 host in a familiar style, and it was dirt cheap. My review at DX is the one dated 5/11/2009.

One of my motivations for choosing this light was the form factor. Overall, I really like the style. 

My main complaint with the light is the design and execution of the _head_. The threading is poorly executed, and the reflector tends to grind against a rough surface on the inside of the light. I was prepared for this when I bought the light, but it eventually got me thinking and looking around. 

Eventually, I started looking at the SolarForce L2 that has been discussed in some detail here. I noticed that the SolarForce L2 head was available as a separate purchase.

Does anyone know if the SolarForce head would work as a replacement for the one that shipped with the C1?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.


----------



## old4570

*Re: 18650 version of Romisen RC-N3*



kramer5150 said:


> IMHO the reflector design P60 drop ins have a very similar beam pattern to the RC-N3. So any of the 18650 / P60 hosts will suffice. From there, you will need to pick up a multi-mode drop in that meets your preferences.
> 
> The solarforce L2, 18650 bored 6P and Ultrafire 503B are good candidates IMHO. The L2 and 6P being superior to the 503B (IMHO), but all 3 are serviceable hosts. These 3 hosts have tall body tube side walls that maximize contact with the P60 module to increase thermal conductivity.
> 
> What you are looking for from the drop in is ~900mah-1A delivered to a Q5-WC XR-E emitter, that should get you ~150-170 Lumens out the front.... and multi modes set up as percentages of that. Stay away from multi-die emitters, they are much more floody than the single die designs.



Unless you want flood , in which case the MC-E just rocks , lights up your back yard like a flood light should , also would be great for house clearing .
DX should do a SSC P7 / P60 drop in .


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: 18650 version of Romisen RC-N3*



old4570 said:


> Unless you want flood , in which case the MC-E just rocks , lights up your back yard like a flood light should , also would be great for house clearing .
> DX should do a SSC P7 / P60 drop in .



Right... the multi die modules are VERY good for flood. IMHO they have just enough spot-throw to be interesting, yet they flood to the sides very nicely.

IMHO the DX:MC-E is the best value going... 150/350 Lumens OTF for $23. You can spend a lot more and get a lot less, IMHO.

My only complaint about it is the typical shoddy DX soldering, otherwise its a great module IMHO.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

$23


----------



## Megavvolt

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

I can't seem to find any info on DX Sku 17382: "EastwardYJ YJ-XGR2 Waterproof Cree R2-WC 2-Mode 250-Lumen LED Flashlight (1*18650/ 2*16340/2*CR123A)".

It seems to have a 2-mode clicky switch, but the description goes, "Digitally Regulated". Reviews say it's one of the brightest, and it's obviously light (6.07 oz).

Did anyone see any test results of this light? I'm hoping I could use it on a bike powered with a couple of 18650's in parallel, but if it's direct driven I'll fry the led pretty quick...


----------



## wintermoon

*Help me choose flashlight*

Hi I am looking for any bright flashlight under $20. I have come up with these two on dealextreme.com. Don't know which one is better. Any idea which one is brighter and has nice throw? 

dx sku.9070

dx sku.14909

I don't know if they both using same LED type. It has no lumen mentioned for sku.9070. I guess Cree XR-E Q5-WC LED emitter is same as Cree XR-E LED emitter?! 

By the way whats Q5-WC? It has no Q5-WC mentioned with sku.14909. If you guys happen to find some better flashlight under $20 at dealextreme, please do recommend me.

Thanks


----------



## NonSenCe

*Re: Help me choose flashlight*

out of those two i would suggest romisen n3. it is one of the lights considered as decent buy of cheap lights.


also the other light seems to use cr2 battery not cr123 (even harder and rarer to find one) and the cr2 has less capacity too. so less runtime. 

do you need the option of having a cr123/cr2 and also the 2AA battery version in same flashlight?

but as its normal here. i would suggest upgrading the budget. doubling it (to 40$) gives you ALOT better light.. (eagletac p100a, fenix l2d or such.. but they only use 2AAs) 

half more (30$) in budget gives you upgraded version of the romisen n3 (shiningbeam.com)

suggested reading: bessiebennys threads of cheap dx and kd lights.. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/227804


----------



## nickanto

*Re: Help me choose flashlight*

I just picked up a Streamlight Stylus Pro for 20 bucks and it is worth every penny. Very compact package and very bright for what it is. It's a good EDC light, it disappears in your pocket. I'd also suggest saving up around 50 dollars and getting a Fenix L2D. It is a heck of a lot of light for the money. But if you really do need to get a light for under 20 bucks, I'd go for the Streamlight. What will you be using it for?


----------



## bobli17

*Re: Help me choose flashlight*

SIMPLE ANSWER:

The RC-N3 from DX is NOT a Q5.
So between those two lights, the WF-606A Q5 is brighter and will have more throw.
So if only given these two as choices, I would choose the WF-606A.

COMPLEX ANSWER:

Only choosing from DX, sticking with AA batteries and staying around $20, I would have to recommend the Akoray 106.

Here is a link
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.16607
Here is a review
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/231703

BUT... (as many people here would say) it also depends on what you want the light for. Do you just want max throw? Max output? Do you only want AA batteries? Do you want modes? Are you going to EDC? 

The more you can tell us about what you want, the easier it will be for us to give you recommendations.

Seriously though.... check out the Akoray 106... it's a fun light... :thumbsup:


----------



## Gunner12

*Re: Help me choose flashlight*

Cree is a company, XR-E is a model of LED, Q5 is a flux (output/efficiency) bin, and WC is a tint bin.

What do you need the light for?

I'd recommend the 2 stage RC-N3 Q5 from shiningbeam at $25. Shipping is quicker if you are in the US (ships from the US), comes with a Q5 bin, and has two output levels. 6% off coupon is "cpfuser".

:welcome:


----------



## bshanahan14rulz

*Re: 18650 version of Romisen RC-N3*



kramer5150 said:


> Right... the multi die modules are VERY good for flood. IMHO they have just enough spot-throw to be interesting, yet they flood to the sides very nicely.
> 
> IMHO the DX:MC-E is the best value going... 150/350 Lumens OTF for $23. You can spend a lot more and get a lot less, IMHO.
> 
> My only complaint about it is the typical shoddy DX soldering, otherwise its a great module IMHO.


What would you need to get this module to put out more lumens? If I get a higher-binned emitter, will it put out more lumens when driven the same or will it put out the same lumens unless I get another driver too?


----------



## BurlyEd

*Re: Help me choose flashlight*



bobli17 said:


> Seriously though.... check out the Akoray 106... it's a fun light... :thumbsup:


+1


----------



## old4570

*Re: 18650 version of Romisen RC-N3*



bshanahan14rulz said:


> What would you need to get this module to put out more lumens? If I get a higher-binned emitter, will it put out more lumens when driven the same or will it put out the same lumens unless I get another driver too?



That particular item HERE 

Responds well to this driver/controller HERE 

The driver it comes with , sort of suxs , so I replaced it .


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Ultrafire A20 Review 

Dimensions = 8.5cm Long , Dia is 2.4cm 
























Left to Right / Solarforce L2 R2 / A20 / 602C / Q5 Twisty.

I will update this post ASAP , but till then enjoy the pictures . 

Ultrafire A20 Cree Q5 5mode 1 x CR123A [ $18.83USD ] 
Starts on Med - Lo - Hi - Strobe - SOS [ sos is - sos - pause - sos ] 

First of all lets get straight to the negatives , 3 things to complain about .
1st/ The 0 ring for the lens , is poorly fitted , looks like a badly paid monkey did it . 
2nd/ Will not run on Primaries :
3rd/ Protected batts may have problems , the threads that are cut for the clicky retaining ring , are machined a little high , so the batt ends up being pushed into the threads far enough to damage the batts plastic covering and jam the batt in the body .

Ok , with the negatives out of the way ..
1st impressions .. Not as bright as my Mini L2 R2 , brighter than my Q5 5 mode twisty , and to the naked eye , the Ultrafire 602C seems to be a fraction brighter , or perhaps its just a whiter tint .

The body looks heavy duty and feels heavy duty , because it is heavy duty , I dont expect this one to run too warm at all on high . The tail clicky is just right for me , not soft and mushy , but rather very positive and mechanical in feel , and changing modes is very easy and in no way overly sensitive .
Overall machining , and anodizing seems to be rather good , especially considering this is a Sub $20 flashlight 
I think the pictures tell most of the story :

So lets move onto Performance :

All lightbox readings are minimum :

Ultrafire A20 - Light box 1 = 274Lux / Light box 2 = 12500Lux
Ultrafire 601C - Light box 1 = 197Lux / Light box 2 = 8700Lux
Solarforce Mini L2 R2 with 1A buck boost driver - Light box 1 = 260Lux / Light box 2 = 12000Lux
Q5 5mode Tisty - Light box 1 = 240Lux / Light box 2 = 10000Lux 

Now some A20 power consumption .

Hi - 1A
Med - o.37A
Lo - o.14A

My A20 came from HERE 
And my overall impression is that its a good flashlight for the money , its new , so hopefully Ultrafire will fix the minor irritations .

Conclusion 

I like the wrist strap , better than the usual cheap %$%# , it has nice output on high with what appears to be a very warm tint , and a very nice Lo . Build quality is good , and yes there are some fixes needed , but nothing to put me off this flashlight . So overall , it was actually better than expected , but due to the minor flaws , I can only give it 8 out of ten , I would loved to have given it more , but I must acknowledge the build errors . 

Beam Shots Tonight 

Solarforce L2 R2 Mini with 1A buck boost driver





Ultrafire A20 





Matt


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



old4570 said:


> Ultrafire A20 Review
> 
> 
> I will update this post ASAP , but till then enjoy the pictures .
> 
> Ultrafire A20 Cree Q5 5mode 1 x CR123A
> Starts on Med - Lo - Hi - Strobe - SOS [ sos is - sos - pause - sos ]
> 
> First of all lets get straight to the negatives , 3 things to complain about .
> 1st/ The 0 ring for the lens , is poorly fitted , looks like a poorly paid monkey did it .
> 2nd/ Will not run on Primaries :
> 3rd/ Protected batts may have problems , the threads that are cut for the clicky retaining ring , are machined a little high , so the batt ends up being pushed into the threads far enough to damage the batts plastic covering and jam the batt in the body .
> 
> Ok , with the negatives out of the way ..
> 1st impressions .. Not as bright as my Mini L2 R2 , brighter than my Q5 5 mode twisty , and to the naked eye , the Ultrafire 602C seems to be a fraction brighter , or perhaps its just a whiter tint .
> 
> The body looks heavy duty and feels heavy duty , because it is heavy duty , I dont expect this one to run too warm at all on high . The tail clicky is just right for me , not soft and mushy , but rather very positive and mechanical in feel , and changing modes is very easy and in no way overly sensitive .
> Overall machining , and anodizing seems to be rather good , especially considering this is a Sub $20 flashlight
> 
> Matt



Thanks for the impressions...
Sounds like the typical DX some assembly required candidate. Can that clicky retaining ring and threads be removed and modified to clear the cell? Cell getting jammed in the body sounds like trouble.

Hows the PWM on low/med?

Does the bezel/head conduct current through the threads? Or does the body tube edge tighten down directly onto the driver pill?

thanks Matt!!... I have been looking for something cheap to replace my RC-C3.


----------



## old4570

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



kramer5150 said:


> Thanks for the impressions...
> Sounds like the typical DX soem assembly required candidate. Can that clicky retaining ring be removed and modified to clear the cell?



Its not the ring , but rather the threads in the body for the ring that catch the batt .. The ring itself is fine and does not appear to be a problem .
Im not sure , Im thinking maybe some wet and dry to sand down the threads a little . 
PWM - cant notice it . I had it pointed at the ceiling , and it seems to be fast enough to go unseen . 
Current = Threads .

PS/ this one came from KD .

Fixed

Ok , I used an old file to remove the high spots from the threads and sticking batts is no longer a problem ...


----------



## wintermoon

*Re: Help me choose flashlight*



NonSenCe said:


> do you need the option of having a cr123/cr2 and also the 2AA battery version in same flashlight?


 
I don't mind if there is no AA batteries as long its bright and has nice throw but those with cr123/cr2 and also the 2AA battery version is a bonus. I guess flashlights with only one AA battery aren't as bright like Akoray K-106 has only 1 AA.



bobli17 said:


> The RC-N3 from DX is NOT a Q5.
> So between those two lights, the WF-606A Q5 is brighter and will have more throw.
> .
> .
> .
> BUT... (as many people here would say) it also depends on what you want the light for. Do you just want max throw? Max output? Do you only want AA batteries? Do you want modes? Are you going to EDC?


 
According to this page both RC-N3 and WF-606A is actually Cree P4 not Q5. And WF-606A (1750) is not as bright as RC-N3 (1900 throw). Correct me if I am wrong. I am newby with emitters etc. So is Q5 brighter than Cree P4? 



Gunner12 said:


> What do you need the light for?
> 
> I'd recommend the 2 stage RC-N3 Q5 from shiningbeam at $25. Shipping is quicker if you are in the US (ships from the US), comes with a Q5 bin, and has two output levels. 6% off coupon is "cpfuser".


 
I need for security work while driving. Sometime need to locate address and its hard to see the street numbers at the far back and smaller numbers. As I said previously, RC-N3 is Cree P4 not Q5.


----------



## wintermoon

*Re: Help me choose flashlight*



bobli17 said:


> SIMPLE ANSWER:
> 
> The RC-N3 from DX is NOT a Q5.
> So between those two lights, the WF-606A Q5 is brighter and will have more throw.
> So if only given these two as choices, I would choose the WF-606A.
> 
> COMPLEX ANSWER:
> 
> Only choosing from DX, sticking with AA batteries and staying around $20, I would have to recommend the Akoray 106.
> 
> Here is a link
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.16607
> Here is a review
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/231703


 
I might go with Akoray 106. By the way, what is Strobe > SOS > Slow Strobe? Is there only one push button to cycle through all these modes?


----------



## mick53

*Problem with Akoray K-106 3 mode*

Hey,

I'm having a problem with an Akoray K-106 3 mode. I programmed it with no problem.

I was under the impression that this light had a memory function, ie. when turned on, the light would go back to the same mode it was in when it was turned off.

Mine always goes to the next mode in the sequence.

It's programmed thusly: Mode 1-low/ Mode 2-high/ Mode 3-rapid strobe.

If I shut it off in Mode 1, when I turn it on again, it goes to Mode 2 and so on.

I read somewhere that you have to give it 4 or 5 seconds to memorize the mode before you turn it back on.

4 or 5 seconds, or minutes for that matter, makes no difference on mine. It just goes right to the next mode.

Am I mistaken somehow? Does in not have a memory?

Thanks.


----------



## romteb

*Re: Problem with Akoray K-106 3 mode*

I had the same problem with the non programmable version, while having a memory, it always went to the next mode unless i waited aproximatly 20 minutes before turning it on again, then the memory would work...

I hope you can have it exchanged.


----------



## Benson

*Re: Problem with Akoray K-106 3 mode*



mick53 said:


> I read somewhere that you have to give it 4 or 5 seconds to memorize the mode before you turn it back on.


Mine goes something like 6 seconds, maybe.


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: Help me choose flashlight*



wintermoon said:


> As I said previously, RC-N3 is Cree P4 not Q5.



The RC-N3 Gunner12 was referring to, from shiningbeam.com, _does_ have a Q5.


----------



## DHart

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Most (possibly all?) Romisens from DX/Hong Kong have lower output emitters (P4) than those carried by Shingingbeam here in the USA, which most (possibly all?) have Q5 emitters. The only Romisen I have from DX also has an off-centered bore... not something I have seen in numerous Romisens I've ordered from Shiningbeam... so I have wondered if Romisen "seconds" are channeled through Hong Kong dealers whilst "firsts" go the the USA retailer. :thinking: In future, I will only buy Romisens from Bryan @ Shiningbeam.

As for the single-AA AKOray K-106, with Q5, that puppy is B-R-I-G-H-T! And a really! awesome light. Very versatile, programmable 3-mode, and less than $21 including shipping! This is a NO BRAINER BUY in my book. I put it in the same output league as the RC-N3-Q5 on RCR123 Li-Ion. By the way, the RC-N3-Q5 when powered by two AA's is not as bright as it is on a single RCR123 Li-Ion.


----------



## Andydg

*Aurora AK-P7*

Hey guys...first post here. I have the task from my supervisor to find a place that sells the Aurora AK-P7 flashlight, but we can't use paypal here for whatever reason. Anyone have an idea where I can find it where they will let me pay directly with a credit card?

If not can anyone recommend a similar or better light for a similar price as the Aurora AK-P7?

TIA!


----------



## Andydg

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Is there any particular reason my post got moved into a 12 page thread? I'm not trying to start anything, I'm just curious is all?


----------



## bigchelis

*Re: DX X2000 focusable P4 - beamshots - stay away from this*

Old thread, but I just got this light yesterday and it is probably the best deal on Deal Extreme.

flood options is perfect with no artifacts.

zoom option will amaze and out throw any R2 from DX or Dereelight. The zoom option with the aspheric is just awesome.


Are these direct drive??

I put an IMR 18650 and got 1.09A at the tail:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs
Note: just after a minute of use the bezel and body got warm, which could be good but with a light of this price range not so good.

EDIT: I tested it last night against my IST Dive light Aspheric by Packhorse (only 350mA at the tail) and this DX light blew it away. In fact I think it gives my Tiablo A10 and 1D Mag R2 Aspheric a good run for the money. It throws just as far, but with it covers more area at distance. Granted; the Tiablo A10 and 1D Mag R2 are brighter at 100 yards, but they also cost 5x as much.


bigchelis


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*



Andydg said:


> Is there any particular reason my post got moved into a 12 page thread? I'm not trying to start anything, I'm just curious is all?



The light you asked about would be considered a budget light of the DX/KD variety. The people who use this thread should be the best to give you answers about it, so it's not such a bad thing. I'm afraid I've only seen it on sites that use Paypal, but good luck with finding one.


----------



## Andydg

*Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)*

Ahhh ok thanks for the reply!


----------



## Mobenzowner

*Need help with Ultrafire u4-mcu*

I have in a weak moment bought an Ultrafire u4-mcu (sku# 17401) from Deals Extreme. The light will not turn off, so I am pretty sure the problem is the tailcap switch. I have contacted DX and they are pretty much no help. The light quit working on the second use, and is less than a month old. All I have asked from them is to let me know what clicky or tailcap & clickie fits this light so I can get a new one, even offering to pay for it myself. They will not even take the time to get me an sku for this part so I can buy it from them. With the vast amount of knowledge on this forum, I am hoping someone here can tell me where I can get the part for this light. Thanks to all in advance and I will never buy anything again from DX.

To be fair, DX will let me send the light back to them. But that would put me without the light for a month plus cost me more in shipping than just buying a taicap.


----------



## s.c.

*Re: DX X2000 focusable P4 - beamshots - stay away from this*



bigchelis said:


> Old thread, but I just got this light yesterday and it is probably the best deal on Deal Extreme.
> 
> flood options is perfect with no artifacts.
> 
> 
> 
> bigchelis



While I don't think its the best deal on DX (the akoray 106 is!), it is a nice light if you have specific needs. The flood is the best I've seen, especially at that price range. I taped mine shut to the flood option and it makes for an excellent bike light. I have it pointed slightly towards the ground and it illuminates the immediate road/trail quite nicely.


----------



## Slash5

*Re: Need help with Ultrafire u4-mcu*



Mobenzowner said:


> With the vast amount of knowledge on this forum, I am hoping someone here can tell me where I can get the part for this light. Thanks to all in advance and I will never buy anything again from DX.


Open up the tailcap and pull the switch. Who knows, you might find the problem. I've seen posts where the tailcap rubber was holding the switch on. Or the plastic post of the switch was sticking. Try some contact cleaner. Try a multimeter on it.
If it's still broke, eyeball it against the switches on Kaidomain (since you don't want to buy from DX).


----------



## TooManyGizmos

*Re: Problem with Akoray K-106 3 mode*

That's why I won't order one.


Never know what you're gonna get from those places.


And I'm not very forgiving
.


----------



## Slash5

*Re: Aurora AK-P7*



Andydg said:


> Hey guys...first post here. I have the task from my supervisor to find a place that sells the Aurora AK-P7 flashlight, but we can't use paypal here for whatever reason. Anyone have an idea where I can find it where they will let me pay directly with a credit card?
> 
> If not can anyone recommend a similar or better light for a similar price as the Aurora AK-P7?
> 
> TIA!


 
I see that goldengadgets.com takes credit cards and carries P7 and MCE lights. Don't know much about them, if I would want to use a credit card. Their "About us" doesn't say much.
Then again, if it's a company credit card, who cares.


----------



## bigchelis

*Re: DX X2000 focusable P4 - beamshots - stay away from this*



s.c. said:


> While I don't think its the best deal on DX (the akoray 106 is!), it is a nice light if you have specific needs. The flood is the best I've seen, especially at that price range. I taped mine shut to the flood option and it makes for an excellent bike light. I have it pointed slightly towards the ground and it illuminates the immediate road/trail quite nicely.


 

The first light I ever purchased was the Akoray 106. It drains a cr123 in 20~30 minutes and the multi-modes are finiki in that they have a mind of their own. It gave it to my other half and it is her EDC.

Does anyone know if the zoom light from DX is direct drive. This thing gets warm in no time. 

Has anyone tried to improve the heat sinking yet?


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: DX X2000 focusable P4 - beamshots - stay away from this*



bigchelis said:


> The first light I ever purchased was the Akoray 106. It drains a cr123 in 20~30 minutes and the multi-modes are finiki in that they have a mind of their own. It gave it to my other half and it is her EDC.
> 
> Does anyone know if the zoom light from DX is direct drive. This thing gets warm in no time.
> 
> Has anyone tried to improve the heat sinking yet?



Its direct drive with a current limiting resistor. So the resistor is dissipating some of those 1.09A into heat. This is whats protecting the LED from . I speculate a design with that little thermal path would overheat the LED, if the resistor were bypassed.

I don't think it would be too hard to fabricate an aluminum or copper disc, drill 2 holes into it and thermal epoxy it to the inside shoulder of the body tube. Epoxy the star onto that surface and run the wires through the holes. You'll have to adjust the optic farther out to re-position the led back to focus, but it will flood out more to the side.

I have found higher BIN XR-Es to be more sensitive to drive current... so if you want to do an emitter swap, you should think about adding a DC-DC circuit, or changing the resistor value.

IMHO DX should make one of these using a BIGGER aspheric (they have quite a few to pick from), to capture more Lumens and refract it out the front.


----------



## DHart

*Re: Aurora AK-P7*



Slash5 said:


> I see that goldengadgets.com takes credit cards and carries P7 and MCE lights. Don't know much about them, if I would want to use a credit card. Their "About us" doesn't say much.



There is quite a bit of info about this company on their website. From all of this info and your safety in using a CC, I would order from them myself if they had product/pricing I was interested in.

If you look on the Contact page:

Corporate Headquarters:

GoldenGadgets.com - Tung Nam Trading
1819 N. Floradale Ave
South El Monte, CA 91733
USA	
Tel: 626-275-2595
E-mail Contacts:

General - [email protected]
Wholesale Inquiries - [email protected]
RMA Inquiry - Submit your RMA Request

Under Help & Info:

Hours of Operation: 
9:00 am - 5:00 pm PST

Location:
GoldenGadgets.com
1819 N. Floradale Ave
South El Monte, CA 91733

And there is quite a bit more info there if you want it.


----------



## moviles

*Re: DX X2000 focusable P4 - beamshots - stay away from this*

the buid quality its too bad but its realy powerfull in throw





jetbeam-----uf-a10-----uf c3 p4----akoray





and current draw its *2.45A* maibe vf of this led its too low


----------



## Benson

*Re: DX X2000 focusable P4 - beamshots - stay away from this*



bigchelis said:


> Are these direct drive??


Only one I have is the 3xAAA twist-focus, and it is indeed direct-drive. Runs ~1.6A off a 17500 (stock), but ~1.9A off an 18650 (heavily modded -- it _barely_ fits), so yours obviously has _something_ to drop the extra voltage; presumably a resistor, as kramer5150 said, but it could certainly be converted to an amc7135 board with minimal effort. I'd do it, if I were doing an emitter upgrade.

The heatsinking is surprisingly effective, for this cheap of construction, but that's a long way from actually good. If I were to upgrade one of the longer ones (or convert mine to 18500s), I'd tend to go for a disc that would press-fit in the bore below the shoulder, with maybe a slight rim to keep it from going in too far. That way you don't add as much to the length, don't need epoxy (for the plug/tube joint), and get better heat transfer from the plug to the tube.

(As for potential emitter upgrades... I've been kind of wondering what an SST-50 at 2.8A (2x 1.4A boards) or so would be like in here -- you obviously lose some at the throw end, but more total output, and an equally clean beam. Stacking 4 boards for 5A or so should get comparable throw, and immensely more output, but I just don't see this light doing well at dissipating ~20W, no matter _what_ you do to it.)


----------



## moviles

*Re: DX X2000 focusable P4 - beamshots - stay away from this*



Benson said:


> (As for potential emitter upgrades... I've been kind of wondering what an SST-50 at 2.8A (2x 1.4A boards) or so would be like in here -- you obviously lose some at the throw end, but more total output, and an equally clean beam. Stacking 4 boards for 5A or so should get comparable throw, and immensely more output, but I just don't see this light doing well at dissipating ~20W, no matter _what_ you do to it.)



I want the sst- 50 and the sst-90 too now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Benson

*Re: DX X2000 focusable P4 - beamshots - stay away from this*



moviles said:


> I want the sst- 50 and the sst-90 too now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



The SST-90 will totally wreck throw in these lights, but have fun anyway. :sigh:


----------



## bshanahan14rulz

*Re: DX X2000 focusable P4 - beamshots - stay away from this*

KD has this light as well, WonDer Focusing light or something like that. It has low, high, strobe. I don't have the tools to measure current. I modded mine with a Q3 5A and used 3m thermal tape to adhere the star to the shoulder in the head. gets warmer now, but I take that as a good sign.

Oh, and mine is the 18650 version.


----------



## moviles

*Re: DX X2000 focusable P4 - beamshots - stay away from this*



Benson said:


> The SST-90 will totally wreck throw in these lights, but have fun anyway. :sigh:



hmmm yea the sst-50 its will be better with asphericals because its small (2.25x2.25mm) maibe sst-90 will be too big for asphericals (3x3mm)


----------



## exodus125

*KD buckle light V6 any info?*

anyone own one? are they worth the buy? 110 lumens sounds nice for a 1AAA light.


----------



## Zeruel

*Re: DX X2000 focusable P4 - beamshots - stay away from this*

Anyone tried this with a MC-E then? Probably that'd eliminate the blue tint.


----------



## moviles

*Re: DX X2000 focusable P4 - beamshots - stay away from this*



Zeruel said:


> Anyone tried this with a MC-E then? Probably that'd eliminate the blue tint.



what blue tint?


----------



## Benson

*Re: DX X2000 focusable P4 - beamshots - stay away from this*



moviles said:


> hmmm yea the sst-50 its will be better with asphericals because its small (2.25x2.25mm) maibe sst-90 will be too big for asphericals (3x3mm)



To be clear -- they're both rated for the same current density (1A/mm^2); I didn't check the numbers, but that should translate to very similar intensity through the same lens; the sst-90 will just punch a _bigger_ square tunnel through the dark, with the same intensity everywhere inside. But the trouble is the lack of power source and heat sink in this size of light makes it way harder (if even possible) to run the SST-90 at full current, while the SST-50 is certainly doable at full current (at least intermittently).

So if you can drive the SST-50 at 5A, but can run the SST-90 at "only" 7A, the SST-90 _will_ put out more light, but less throw. Nothing wrong with an insane flood-light that can't throw, but that's not what I bought the x2000 for. 

OTOH, a 1D Mag can easily hold adequate power to crank 9A, and can (not so easily) be made to dissipate the heat, at least for intermittent runs, so the SST-90 in a Mag aspheric build is quite workable.


----------



## Benson

*Re: DX X2000 focusable P4 - beamshots - stay away from this*



Zeruel said:


> Anyone tried this with a MC-E then? Probably that'd eliminate the blue tint.



Mine, at least, is not objectionably blue -- it's just a typical cool white. And surprisingly enough, even at 1.9A, and running it for 2 minutes, I saw no visually detectable blue-shift. An MC-E is gonna axe your throw (about 2/3 to 3/4 the intensity, I think, plus a nice black-hole/X), but if you're cool with that side effect, should work nice enough.

I'd go with one of the warmest (neutralest? uncoolest?) bins of cool white XRE, or maybe even a neutral- or warm-white, if I was doing an emitter swap for color, but cool white doesn't bother me at all... anyway, stick with single-die for a clean beam.


----------



## Mobenzowner

*problem with ultrafire u4-mcu (sku# 17401)*

Got this light from DX and it wont turn off. As soon as you screw the tailcap on the light comes on and wont go off until the tailcap is almost completely off the light. I assume the problem is the clickie switch inside the tailcap. With the vast amounts of knowledge on this forum can anyone tell me where to find a clickie switch or complete tailcap to fit this light? DX does not seem to be interested in helping me find the right item, as they were the first ones I asked as to which sku would work. Dont really want to send the whole light back to them for repair but guess I will if I have to.
Thanks


----------



## kramer5150

*Re: problem with ultrafire u4-mcu (sku# 17401)*

You could try unscrewing the switch pill retainer ring to expose the clicky unit and spray some light oil into the click switch. I have done this before with various reverse click switches with good results. I use the light oil that came with my hair trimmer. I would think Liquid wrench might also help un-freeze whatever is stuck in there.

Hmmm Lighthound sells this one for the WF-500... it looks very similar but I am not sure if it will fit your light. You could take the clicky out of it and swap that.
http://www.lighthound.com/Ultrafire-WF-500-Flashlight-Tailcap--Click-On-Version_p_2291.html

Alternately you can get a complete host for ~$12 at DX and pull the switch off that... SKU:15946

**edit**
oh wait a minute yours is the 3AAA version... Hmmm I have NO idea if the tail caps form the links above are interchangeable.

Can you take the switch apart and post a pic of the clicky by itself? Theres a remote chance DX/KD/QCG sells the clicky unit separately.


----------



## Mobenzowner

*Re: problem with ultrafire u4-mcu (sku# 17401)*

Thanks for the idea to spray lube the clickie. I will give that a shot. I will see about taking a pic of the clickie. It's under warranty by DX, and I told them to just give me an sku number for the clickie or tailcap & clickie and I will pay for it. They refuse to even look up the sku for an item that will fit. They would rather me send the whole light back to them. I am sure they avoid having to do a lot of warranty work simply this way. I wont buy anything else from them again.




kramer5150 said:


> You could try unscrewing the switch pill retainer ring to expose the clicky unit and spray some light oil into the click switch. I have done this before with various reverse click switches with good results. I use the light oil that came with my hair trimmer. I would think Liquid wrench might also help un-freeze whatever is stuck in there.
> 
> Hmmm Lighthound sells this one for the WF-500... it looks very similar but I am not sure if it will fit your light. You could take the clicky out of it and swap that.
> http://www.lighthound.com/Ultrafire-WF-500-Flashlight-Tailcap--Click-On-Version_p_2291.html
> 
> Alternately you can get a complete host for ~$12 at DX and pull the switch off that... SKU:15946
> 
> **edit**
> oh wait a minute yours is the 3AAA version... Hmmm I have NO idea if the tail caps form the links above are interchangeable.
> 
> Can you take the switch apart and post a pic of the clicky by itself? Theres a remote chance DX/KD/QCG sells the clicky unit separately.


----------



## Gunner12

*Re: problem with ultrafire u4-mcu (sku# 17401)*

They might not even have a compatiable talicap in their DIY section. They might not even know how to open the flashlight up that far. It's easier for them to replace rather then repair the light. They are only a dealer, they don't make any of the products they sell. Also remember that many people would rather replace the whole product rather then going through the trouble of finding what's wrong. (yes I just defended DX, but this applies to many other companies too)

Try a bit of lube on the switch. If that doesn't work, measure the switch size and see if you can find a replacement, or return the light.


----------



## Zatoichi

*Re: problem with ultrafire u4-mcu (sku# 17401)*



Gunner12 said:


> They might not even have a compatiable talicap in their DIY section.



I'm pretty certain they don't. The only one I can find is a 6P size reverse clicky, so they can't give an sku number for a replacement.


----------



## Mundele

*Maratac LED light*

Just saw this flashlight over at countycomm.com. Anyone have any information about it?

http://www.countycomm.com/9290.html


----------



## Sir Lightalot

*Re: Maratac LED light*

Looks like a slightly different version of this: http://www.light-reviews.com/itp_c7_tactical/


----------



## Patriot

*Re: Maratac LED light*

No, I hadn't seen that yet. It looked very nice for the money and the UI seems good also. The first thing I noticed when he switched it on was the tight hot spot. I'm not sure about the "couple hundred meter" claim but everything else seemed in line.


----------



## wintermoon

*Re: Help me choose flashlight*

So any suggestion?


----------



## Patriot

*Re: Maratac LED light*



Sir Lightalot said:


> Looks like a slightly different version of this: http://www.light-reviews.com/itp_c7_tactical/




That's gotta be the same light with a different finish I would think. Nice job locating it. I wasn't successful when I looked for it earlier. Looks decent but perhaps slightly large.


----------



## Slash5

*Re: Help me choose flashlight*



wintermoon said:


> So any suggestion?


 
Yes - go to the first page of this thread and pick out the any light with 5 or 6 stars that meets your needs and battery choice.


----------



## exodus125

*KD buckle light V6 any info?*

does anyone own one of these? 110 lumens sounds nice. Would like to know how reliable they are.


----------



## TooManyGizmos

*Re: KD buckle light V6 any info?*

.
V6 only been avail. for sale just one day prior to your post.

Do a search on previous versions.
.


----------



## exodus125

*Re: KD buckle light V6 any info?*

haven't tried that yet, I will though


----------



## DM51

*Re: Dead Romisen RC-T6*

Continued here...


----------

