# ITP EOS 1AAA



## dealgrabber2002 (Aug 18, 2009)

I just received mine yesterday, but the low level (1.5 lumen) is as bright as my LOD Q4 low which stated ~8-10 lumen. Can anyone confirm that they got the same brightness on low level? Thanks.


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## Dan FO (Aug 18, 2009)

What battery are you running in it?


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## dealgrabber2002 (Aug 18, 2009)

I used eneloop.


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## Patriot (Aug 18, 2009)

I can speak for the ITP since I don't have one, but the Maratac's low level is way below the LOD Q4's level, more along the lines of Arc AAA output.


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## Beacon of Light (Aug 18, 2009)

The iTP does seem fairly bright for 1.5 lumens. I say bright as I am used to the low lows of the .2 lumen Quark and the ??? lumen of minimum on the LF2XT.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Aug 18, 2009)

I wonder if it really last 50 hrs. on low with that brightness?


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## Zeruel (Aug 18, 2009)

Shots.....we need shots.... especially beamshots.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Aug 18, 2009)

Come to think of it, it's brighter than my D10 on 3 lumen. I am very sure of that.

I would love to get a beam shot, but I only have a camera phone. I live my myself... don't have the luxury to buy one. And plus, this habit can get quite ahem... u know... expensive :shakehead


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## oronocova (Aug 19, 2009)

I can't speak to the low but my iTP single mode is identical to my Maratac 3 mode on high.


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## ergotelis (Aug 19, 2009)

I have one too and i really like it!:thumbsup:

I just took some amp readings. All with aaa nimh.

high: 0,87amp
med: 0,20amp
low: 0,02amp

edit: I did a lux measure test, it is about 830 lux/1m on high!Excellent performance!

So, if it is regulated then we can say that the runtimes posted by ITP are fair if we use a good aaa nimh battery.


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## kramer5150 (Aug 20, 2009)

Bump!!
Anyone else?


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## Woods Walker (Aug 20, 2009)

kramer5150 said:


> Bump!!
> Anyone else?


 

Ok using a very unscientific bathroom ceiling bounce test comparing to my H501-Q5 headlamp which has a listed low of 3.3 lumens I am going to say the ITP 3-mode’s low is just a bit lower. Maybe 2-3 lumens but it is so hard to tell. In any case seems like a workable low to me.


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## sabre7 (Aug 20, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I just received mine yesterday, but the low level (1.5 lumen) is as bright as my LOD Q4 low which stated ~8-10 lumen. Can anyone confirm that they got the same brightness on low level? Thanks.


Just got my iIP EOS 3 mode natural today, looks like the low is much lower than my LOD Q4, at least half


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## dandism (Aug 24, 2009)

I just got my single mode from goinggear (fast shipping!) and love it. :twothumbs


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## LEDAdd1ct (Aug 24, 2009)

I bought three single-mode lights, and they are very handy. A bit blue for my tastes, but hey, they do work! My family was quite impresssed by the amount of light shooting out of something the size of my ring finger.


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## Toohotruk (Aug 25, 2009)

I just ordered a natural one, most likely to use as a gift sometime down the road, you really can't beat the price...so I'm very curious as to the quality of these lights. Time will tell.


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## litetube (Aug 25, 2009)

I have a 3mode and a single mode on the way.

I have to say though most seem to like the setup on the 3mode MED-LO-High, I dont. I woud rather have Hi-LO-MED or HI-MED-LO. I cant be the only one who wants max briteness from the get-go and I can tone it down if needed. Since I am not a Spec-OP warrior or Ninja, it's ok if I lose some nite adapted vision while transferring groceries from the car to the house in the dark. And having to stop and twist a light multiple times is a little annoying , but that is my preference so I went with ordering another single mode and will give up the flexibility of having the Lo-Med . I think my Dad will like the 3mode when flying.Its good to see others are going with the single mode also.

These little lites seem very well made to me. Being so tiny and light weight, I doubt they will stand up to being dropped from 20' repeatedly or being thrown against a wall. The wall thickness seems adequate, I dont see the threads breaking off. I wouldnt stick a 10440 in this thing just not enough mass for the heat . It gets hot on an Alkie!! But I get the feeling it will handle everyday carry well enough , as good as a Fenix EO1 or an ARC AAA. I am curious about the finish though and how well it will fair over a cpl months of daily carry.


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## kramer5150 (Aug 25, 2009)

is it the same light as the maratac 1AAA... just branded differently?

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/240243

Can it be upgraded to a forward clicky by using a streamlight microstream body?

:thinking:


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## dandism (Aug 25, 2009)

Anyone figure out how to take it apart? There appears to be something stuck to the LED's lens on mine.


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## Woods Walker (Aug 25, 2009)

kramer5150 said:


> is it the same light as the maratac 1AAA... just branded differently?
> 
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/240243
> 
> ...


 
Near as I can tell yes it is the same light but with a few outside changes. As for the clicky I don't know but this would make it bigger. The iTP EOS is so small.


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## StandardBattery (Aug 25, 2009)

dandism said:


> Anyone figure out how to take it apart? There appears to be something stuck to the LED's lens on mine.


 
I managed to get my Black Upgraded edition apart, just for fun. See the Maratac Thread. I was not the first, but I can't remember if the first person to open them did it on the Maratac or the iTP. I have not been able to get a Maratac open yet, but I have not tried too hard. The early one needs a different tool, the iTP was a piece of cake.


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## duboost (Aug 25, 2009)

litetube said:


> I have a 3mode and a single mode on the way.
> 
> I have to say though most seem to like the setup on the 3mode MED-LO-High, I dont. I woud rather have Hi-LO-MED or HI-MED-LO. I cant be the only one who wants max briteness from the get-go and I can tone it down if needed. Since I am not a Spec-OP warrior or Ninja, it's ok if I lose some nite adapted vision while transferring groceries from the car to the house in the dark. And having to stop and twist a light multiple times is a little annoying , but that is my preference so I went with ordering another single mode and will give up the flexibility of having the Lo-Med . I think my Dad will like the 3mode when flying.Its good to see others are going with the single mode also.


I agree with you on the modes. I just received my 3 mode today and i love it, it's even smaller than i was expecting. But i think i'll order a single mode as well. I think high first would be more useful (for me anyway), or even LO-HI-MED, to preserve the battery and night vision when you turn it on, then high is just a single twist away. Either way, i really like this light, and the single mode will make great gifts for non flashaholics


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## dandism (Aug 25, 2009)

StandardBattery said:


> I managed to get my Black Upgraded edition apart, just for fun. See the Maratac Thread. I was not the first, but I can't remember if the first person to open them did it on the Maratac or the iTP. I have not been able to get a Maratac open yet, but I have not tried too hard. The early one needs a different tool, the iTP was a piece of cake.


 So how did you do it?


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## adirondackdestroyer (Aug 25, 2009)

I just compared mine to my Fenix EO1 in my homemade lightbox, and here are the results:

Fenix E01 = 26

ITP EOS Upgrade = 81, 7, 306

To get an approximate lumen rating I divide each number by 5, which would give us:

Fenix E01 = 5.2 lumens

ITP EOS Upgrade = 16.2, 1.4, 61.2

These are out the front lumens, and if anything are on the low end of the spectrum. If someone with a IS tested these lights I would expect it to be around 5% brighter on each mode. With that said, my EOS is very close to the 1.5 lumens that they claim.


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## kit (Aug 26, 2009)

Hi guys, 

I just picked up 10 ITP Upgrades, and on low mode, its lower than my E01 by more than half. I checked all of them. Great little light, don't like the low PWM, but still love it.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Aug 26, 2009)

kit said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I just picked up 10 ITP Upgrades, and on low mode, its lower than my E01 by more than half. I checked all of them. Great little light, don't like the low PWM, but still love it.




Yep, according to my lightbox the E01 is actually almost 4x as bright as the EOS Upgrade on low.


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## sol-leks (Aug 26, 2009)

Dimensions? Can anyone take a side by side compared to the LOD or LD01? Seems great for the price.


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## litetube (Aug 26, 2009)

I cant do a photo comparison, I dont have the Fenix but basic measurements using a ruler not calipers is

68mm length not including the little keyring tab

13mm at the head width and about 12mm for the body and back to 13mm for the little tail lip .


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## berry580 (Aug 26, 2009)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> Yep, according to my lightbox the E01 is actually almost 4x as bright as the EOS Upgrade on low.


looks like iTP has good QC.
I got pretty similar result, E01 about 3.8x the brightness of the EOS A3 on low.


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## jahxman (Aug 26, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I just received mine yesterday, but the low level (1.5 lumen) is as bright as my LOD Q4 low which stated ~8-10 lumen. Can anyone confirm that they got the same brightness on low level? Thanks.


 
My ITP on low definitely seems like more than 1.5 lumen - I am running a 10440 in it .... I'll do some comparisons with my oither lights when I get home tonight.


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## sol-leks (Aug 26, 2009)

litetube said:


> I cant do a photo comparison, I dont have the Fenix but basic measurements using a ruler not calipers is
> 
> 68mm length not including the little keyring tab
> 
> 13mm at the head width and about 12mm for the body and back to 13mm for the little tail lip .



Thanks, wow thats quite small.


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## kramer5150 (Aug 26, 2009)

Just placed my order!!:thumbsup:

can't wait, I've been wanting a multi mode low-low for EDC use.

:thumbsup:


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## kanarie (Aug 26, 2009)

I have run some numbers on my cheap lux meter compaired to an Fenix LOD-CE and a Fenix e01
estimate [email protected] meter
AAA Ni-MH:
lod-ce/ itp a3/ eo1
M 120/ 190
L 40 / 22
H 340 / 740/ 44

10440 Li-ion:
lod-ce/ itp a3 
M 470/ 620
L 180/ 55
H 1100/ 2100  (not really)

hotspot lod-ce and the itp are about the same size , less artifacts on the itp
itp a3 on Ni-MH is replacing my LOD-CE on Li-ion as my edc light


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## adirondackdestroyer (Aug 26, 2009)

Damn! The EOS is nearly 3x as bright on high when using a 10440 cell! That must be so damn bright it's unreal! At least 180+ lumens out the front of a flashlight smaller than your pinky. How fast does it heat up?


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## berry580 (Aug 27, 2009)

IMO, iTP's EOS is currently the best buy in the single AAA flashlight range.

- Great brightness (good high, and *low* low). 
- light weight but its walls' thickness is still respectable
- very small (yes, smaller than L0D and LD01)
- waterproof (went shower with it no problem hehe)
- AND cheap (price, not quality)

Throw is quite respectable. At first i thought EOS is brighter than the E01 even at low until i checked in my light box, but the EOS still has a usable spill.

the clips that's included is good quality too

Only complain i have is that if i take the clip on & off too often, the anodize would come off very easily. SS (or even Ti) version please? Obviously we're willing to pay for for it. Right guys?! =D


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## kanarie (Aug 27, 2009)

> Damn! The EOS is nearly 3x as bright on high when using a 10440 cell! That must be so damn bright it's unreal! At least 180+ lumens out the front of a flashlight smaller than your pinky. How fast does it heat up?



Just like my LOD-CE it will heat up within 10 seconds 
I have not left it on for more than 20-30 seconds (not because of to much heat but just to be sure)




> I have run some numbers on my cheap lux meter compaired to an Fenix LOD-CE and a Fenix e01
> estimate [email protected] meter
> AAA Ni-MH:
> lod-ce/ itp a3/ eo1
> ...



More Numbers! this time how much juice they draw:
AAA Ni-MH:
lod-ce / itp a3
M 0.27A / 0.22Ah
L 0.11A / 0.03Ah
H 0,8A / 0,8A

10440 Li-ion cell:
lod-ce / itp a3
M 0.4A / 0.3Ah
L 0.14A / 0.03Ah
H 1,10A / 1,12A

It is amazing what a few more years (new bin's and circuits) can do for efficiency 
for example look at high on Ni-MH twice the output at the same current draw.


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## kramer5150 (Aug 27, 2009)

kanarie said:


> Just like my LOD-CE it will heat up within 10 seconds
> I have not left it on for more than 20-30 seconds (not because of to much heat but just to be sure)
> 
> 
> ...



WOW that is pretty impressive... more Lumens and less current draw!!! Very nice indeed.

CAN I throw in some praise for shiningbeam while we are at it? Bryan shipped my order out 16 minutes after I sent him the paypal. Hard to beat that.

I have the gray one coming to match my SF type III


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## kanarie (Aug 27, 2009)

> CAN I throw in some praise for shiningbeam while we are at it?


Sure, but I have bought mine at goinggear.com also a great dealer.


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## dudu84 (Aug 27, 2009)

I don't have L0D CE but this iTP A3 is ~ 4mm shorter than my L0D RB, both heads have about the same diameter.


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## litetube (Aug 27, 2009)

Oh yeah, the 1 mode version is about 3mm SHORTER than the Upgrade!!! The head is the shorter part. Even smaller , truly incredible when you see the amount of light and there is a reflector in there too!!!

Great lites.

And you cant go wrong with Shining Beam . He is the FASTEST shipper in the Land!!!


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## defloyd77 (Aug 27, 2009)

I can't decide if I want the standard or upgrade. Besides being slightly smaller and a simpler UI, does the standard have any advantages, like maybe being a 1 mode light, it's circuitry is simpler and thus maybe slightly more efficient?


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## kramer5150 (Aug 27, 2009)

defloyd77 said:


> I can't decide if I want the standard or upgrade. Besides being slightly smaller and a simpler UI, does the standard have any advantages, like maybe being a 1 mode light, it's circuitry is simpler and thus maybe slightly more efficient?



I think someone is going to have to measure the single mode model current draw and compare it to HI current draw of the multi mode, and compare outputs.

I just went with the multi mode. It seems most useful for me. I might get a single mode later too:twothumbs


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## defloyd77 (Aug 27, 2009)

I guess the 3 moder is more practical, I just really like the idea of twisting the head on and BAM! I'm going for the 3.


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## oronocova (Aug 27, 2009)

These lights are great, I think it would be awesome if they offered a version with no reflector, just the LED and lens. Total flood. They make great inspection lights and with a whole lot more flood they would be even better for close up work.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Aug 27, 2009)

I have two recommendations for ITP if they ever plan on doing another run of this light, or something similar:

1. Make the little nub on the end of the tailcap larger so you can make the keychain (lanyard) hole larger, so it can fit a larger and more sturdy split ring. 

2. Have more threads after the o-ring. On my light the o-ring is slightly exposed if I only unscrew the light 1/2 turn from the on position. This causes the o-ring to gather dirt and grime. It would be great if they could make it so that the head could be turned 1/2 turn further before the o-ring was exposed.

Other than these small gripes, this light is perfect! Neither of these things are even close to being a deal breaker, but I figure I'd add my input so that an even greater light could be made.


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## Woods Walker (Aug 27, 2009)

defloyd77 said:


> I can't decide if I want the standard or upgrade. Besides being slightly smaller and a simpler UI, does the standard have any advantages, like maybe being a 1 mode light, it's circuitry is simpler and thus maybe slightly more efficient?


 
I only have the 3-mode iTP. Can't think of any reason why I would want the standard. The high is very bright and would be overkill most of the times however sure has a WOW factor given the lights size. The low is a very nice low and medium is good too. Don't think I would want to drop those mode. Now if they had a 20ish lumen only standard than maybe but then as only a gift or extra daypack light.


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## kramer5150 (Aug 27, 2009)

defloyd77 said:


> I can't decide if I want the standard or upgrade. Besides being slightly smaller and a simpler UI, does the standard have any advantages, like maybe being a 1 mode light, it's circuitry is simpler and thus maybe slightly more efficient?



I think one advantage of the standard model is 1 twist gets full-instant light. Most people don't like twisting caps on / off to switch modes. I for one am a _big _proponent of twist-cap type switches... but even I admit they are at times cumbersome and difficult.


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## Black Rose (Aug 27, 2009)

I plan on getting a natural Upgrade EOS. 

Based on the photos I've seen, I wish the keychain attachment was more like that of my Fenix L0D Q4 or E01 lights.


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## dudu84 (Aug 28, 2009)

Black Rose said:


> I plan on getting a natural Upgrade EOS.
> 
> Based on the photos I've seen, I wish the keychain attachment was more like that of my Fenix L0D Q4 or E01 lights.



I kinda like the clip on the iTP A3, it's not so tight, you can rotate it around the body without much force. I also tried to remove it, was rather easy.

Like Kit mentioned, I also noticed the PWM effects on Mid and Low modes; I don't think the frequency is very high. 

My light has a barely-visible dark spot at the center of the hotspot but it is definitely no problem in practical use.


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## slipe (Aug 28, 2009)

I had one each of the black and natural Maratac. I got the standard iTP because I wanted a light to come on in high.

People on the Maratac boards report a noticeable difference between the black and natural beams. I see a very slight difference on a white wall but none in actual use. The iTP standard beam is very obviously different. It is tighter with a greater throw and sharper cutoff. Flood is similar.

The iTP standard is my EDC because I get light right away without screwing around. If I want lower intensity I probably have time to fish my keys out of my pocket and use my ReX. The iTP is for when I need light quickly, and then I usually want all I can get.

The Maratac would be my choice over the iTP in the 3 mode. The knurling is much nicer and you can reverse the clip. I wish one or the other would have made a hi/med/lo. I would prefer that to the single mode.


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## sol-leks (Aug 28, 2009)

oronocova said:


> These lights are great, I think it would be awesome if they offered a version with no reflector, just the LED and lens. Total flood. They make great inspection lights and with a whole lot more flood they would be even better for close up work.



+1

I love flood


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## kaichu dento (Aug 28, 2009)

oronocova said:


> These lights are great, I think it would be awesome if they offered a version with no reflector, just the LED and lens. Total flood. They make great inspection lights and with a whole lot more flood they would be even better for close up work.


You may want to check out the two-level VersaTi with it's beautiful floody beam. There is virtually no hotspot, just wall to wall flood! 

It's a lot more money, but it is titanium and has some of the nicest knurling I've ever seen!


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## Black Rose (Aug 28, 2009)

dudu84 said:


> I kinda like the clip on the iTP A3, it's not so tight, you can rotate it around the body without much force. I also tried to remove it, was rather easy.


The clip will be of no use for me since the light will be attached to a SAK for pocket carry (assuming the hole for the keychain attachement is big enough to put a larger split ring through).


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## Mostly (Aug 28, 2009)

*ITP EOS 1AAA versus Luxeon III L0D*

Regarding the OP, mine seems to be lower than yours, probably about 3 lumens on low. This seems to be what most people are getting so yours could be a fluke. 

Just received mine yesterday. Got carried away this morning and ended up writing a mini-review in Shiningbeam's sales thread on CPFMarketplace comparing it to my ancient model Luxeon III L0D: 22 

The only thing I'd add to the mini-review there is that the knurling is no better or worse than that on the L0D, but if it weren't for the clip, it would be even harder to turn on one handed because the body is so much shorter and smaller that I can't quite get two fingers wrapped around the body, unlike on the L0D! A good problem to have, in a way. And as short as it is, it still manages to have a deeper reflector than the L0D, narrowing the spill a tad. 

Oh, and I'm not impressed with the keychain attachment, but I've seen worse, and I'm not impressed with what I've heard about the Maratac keychain attachment either. 

Okay, I guess there are three things to add to the review... the third is that mine quickly got noticeably warm on high with a NIMH cell, so I'd be nervous about leaving it on high if I weren't holding it. 

All in all a terrific light for the price! I'm very happy with it and will probably buy a couple more, unless the lack of knurling drives me to "splurge" on a couple of Maratacs instead.


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## kramer5150 (Aug 28, 2009)

Just got mine today!! Still too early for a detailed review... so here are some pics.


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## nsx (Aug 28, 2009)

Thanks for the pics! I can't tell for sure, but is that grayish finish paint, or natural color of the metal tubing?


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## CaNo (Aug 28, 2009)

Thanks for the pics!


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## kramer5150 (Aug 28, 2009)

nsx said:


> Thanks for the pics! I can't tell for sure, but is that grayish finish paint, or natural color of the metal tubing?



Its the gray colored typeIII anodize finish.... which is a pure gray (IE no OD color tint)


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## nsx (Aug 28, 2009)

kramer5150 said:


> Its the gray colored typeIII anodize finish.... which is a pure gray (IE no OD color tint)


Ok, thanks. I was wondering how resistant it will be to scratches, if carried on a key ring with other keys and objects. The finish on my black L0D is scratched to hell thanks to being kept in my pocket with my keys and pocket knife.


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## defloyd77 (Aug 28, 2009)

Is the keyring nub flat? Would it be able to tailstand on it (I know it wouldn't be too steady if it did)?


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## Toohotruk (Aug 28, 2009)

Wow, great pics!:thumbsup:

Looks like they have good threads, I'm glad to see that. Mine should be here tomorrow, can't wait!


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## kramer5150 (Aug 28, 2009)

defloyd77 said:


> Is the keyring nub flat? Would it be able to tailstand on it (I know it wouldn't be too steady if it did)?



LOL... no it won't tail stand (at least not very well).

I have mine on a surefire lanyard. The shirt clip is secure, yet can easily be removed without chipping off the type III finish.


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## geepondy (Aug 28, 2009)

I see their is going to be a stainless steel version available. Just what are the advantages of stainless steel over aluminum?


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## jasonsmaglites (Aug 28, 2009)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> I just compared mine to my Fenix EO1 in my homemade lightbox, and here are the results:
> 
> Fenix E01 = 26
> 
> ...




you need to start dividing by 4


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## adirondackdestroyer (Aug 28, 2009)

jasonsmaglites said:


> you need to start dividing by 4



Well, this formula was done by checking the output of many many lights that had a known lumen value. 
I'm confident that these lumen figures are within around 5%, and are on the low end. If someone used an IS to measure the lumens it very well could be 18,1.8,65. But I doubt it would be more than that.


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## Woods Walker (Aug 28, 2009)

geepondy said:


> I see their is going to be a stainless steel version available. Just what are the advantages of stainless steel over aluminum?


 

Yea looks that way.

http://www.batteryjunction.com/itp-a3-eos-ss.html

I have the black 3-mode but may get the SS too for the keychain so it will hold up better. I think that is the pro of SS. I like the tail connector and this is the reason why I went with the iTP over the CC light. I also put a lanyard on mine but a smaller one from my Fenix lights and a Kevlar loop in place of the split ring. I do think over time the split ring would eat though Al and drop the light from my keys. Thinking this would be less of an issue with SS. I use my Al for EDC with the little lanyard so this would not be an issue for that.


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## kramer5150 (Aug 28, 2009)

Curious... Mine has a yellow/warm tint compared to my DIY XR-E Q5/WC builds.

XRE Q5-WC #1 => Left
A3-EOS => Right





XRE Q5-WC #2 => Left
A3-EOS => Right





Anyone else notice this?


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## Woods Walker (Aug 29, 2009)

Humm. Maybe a bit on the cool side with just the smallest hint of purple on mine in the lower setting. Good for me as I fear and hate **** green or angry blue. I would mostly call the tint white. However tint is in the eye of the beholder.


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## dudu84 (Aug 29, 2009)

kramer5150 said:


>



I have one question Kramer, WHY do you have SO MANY batteries? :lolsign:

Back to the topic, I'm a bit disappointed in the runtime of my iTP A3 on Low. My La Crosse AAA charged to 650mAh lasted between 15-19 hours (it switched off when I wasn't at home, I expected it to run somewhat longer ). To achieve the claimed 50 hours, I'd estimate that my A3 will need to be powered by a 1700mAh-2150mAh AAA NimH :shrug:. Hopefully a lithium energizer AAA can do the trick .


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## kramer5150 (Aug 29, 2009)

dudu84 said:


> I have one question Kramer, WHY do you have SO MANY batteries? :lolsign:
> 
> Back to the topic, I'm a bit disappointed in the runtime of my iTP A3 on Low. My La Crosse AAA charged to 650mAh lasted between 15-19 hours (it switched off when I wasn't at home, I expected it to run somewhat longer ). To achieve the claimed 50 hours, I'd estimate that my A3 will need to be powered by a 1700mAh-2150mAh AAA NimH :shrug:. Hopefully a lithium energizer AAA can do the trick .



OCD perhaps:twothumbs... theyre just some junk 18650 cells I pulled from PC laptop packs. I need to dump them in the battery recycle bin.

ergotellis and kanaire measured 20-30mah draw on low mode. I would expect ~20 hours from a 650mah AAA cell. I haven't tested mine for run time but using 1000mah AAA cells I would expect 30 hours ball park. Lithium primaries at about 2x the capacity should be in the 50 hour range.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Aug 29, 2009)

Selfbuilt just did an amazing review of the EOS and the Maratac, here is the link:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/240639

The Maratac got over 34 hours of runtime on the low setting with an alkaline battery. I would imagine much better runtime with an L92 lithium as well.


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## defloyd77 (Aug 29, 2009)

Well that answers my question on weither or not the single stage has any advantages of being simple, it's noticeably shorter, but Selfbuilt's review showed that as far as performance, they're pretty identical on high.


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## sabre7 (Aug 29, 2009)

Still no conclusive info about runtimes on low with NiMH or Lithium AAAs?


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## kramer5150 (Aug 29, 2009)

sabre7 said:


> Still no conclusive info about runtimes on low with NiMH or Lithium AAAs?



selfbuilts review linked in post #71

Oops... apparently low modes were missing...? never mind


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## ergotelis (Aug 29, 2009)

I don't think a nimh will perform worser in low mode than an alkaline, so i guess we can expect more than that. It is still pretty good right?


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## jasonsmaglites (Aug 29, 2009)

kanarie said:


> It is amazing what a few more years (new bin's and circuits) can do for efficiency
> for example look at high on Ni-MH twice the output at the same current draw.



whoa whoa whoa! lets not get carried away here. the most important thing to remind ourselves is that these numbers were done on a lux meter, not in a lightbox. what that means is the itp might throw a narrow hotspot thats 3x as intense, but that does not mean its necessarily brighter overall, nor what someone would want when its pitch dark and viewing medium distances on a night walk. 

also, were we comparing to the fenix ce q4? because thats a closer bin. granted, i guess that wouldnt be fair either cause its priced higher and i do see the value in the itp on a price for price basis vs the fenix, but we dont have true lumens numbers on the comparision, so lets not assume that fenix circuits run anything less than optimal effecincy if we're comparing similiar bins of led's too. 
jasonsmaglites


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## Toohotruk (Aug 29, 2009)

Just got my ITP EOS Upgraded in natural, and this light is an incredible value! :thumbsup:

Makes me wish I had given my little brother one of these for his Bday, instead of the LD01 I did give him, which is way more than he deserves. :duh2:

About the only thing that makes the LD01 better, is the higher frequency PWM on the lower levels and the incredible guarantee if you get one from 7777. But at the price level of the ITP/Maratac, you can afford to buy another if something goes wrong. 

I can foresee getting a few of these for Xmas gifts this year...


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## sabre7 (Aug 29, 2009)

Wouldn't it be nice if 4 Sevens carried the ITP A3 EOS and Maratacs?


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## Toohotruk (Aug 29, 2009)

I'm VERY curious as to what the new AAA Quarks are going to cost when they come out...


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## StandardBattery (Aug 29, 2009)

It would be very nice if County Comm got themselves a real Merchant account or some partner for CC processing other than paypal. Then many more people could get their gear NOW!

iTP and CC, have to have set a new price level for the AAA group, if not more than that.


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## Black Rose (Aug 30, 2009)

Toohotruk said:


> About the only thing that makes the LD01 better, is the higher frequency PWM on the lower levels and the incredible guarantee if you get one from 7777.


That incredible guarantee on the Fenix lights from 7777 is no more...it's the standard Fenix guarantee now.



> *** July 16 2009 *** The warranty for all Fenix lights purchased through 4Sevens.com is the same 2-year warranty provided by the manufacturer.


 


> *** July 16 2009 *** The warranty for all Fenix lights purchased through Fenix-Store.com is the same 2-year warranty provided by the manufacturer.


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## Black Rose (Aug 30, 2009)

StandardBattery said:


> It would be very nice if County Comm got themselves a real Merchant account or some partner for CC processing other than paypal. Then many more people could get their gear NOW!


Paypal is not the issue...the fact that County Comm won't ship outside of the US is the real issue IMO.


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## Toohotruk (Aug 30, 2009)

It figures that kind of guarantee wouldn't last...there had to be a lot of Fenix lights returned, broken from just plain abuse. Someone always has to ruin it for everybody else. :shakehead


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## defloyd77 (Aug 30, 2009)

Toohotruk said:


> I'm VERY curious as to what the new AAA Quarks are going to cost when they come out...



I'm NOT, in fact I'm getting the heck out of here before they're out :nana:



Toohotruk said:


> It figures that kind of guarantee wouldn't last...there had to be a lot of Fenix lights returned, broken from just plain abuse. Someone always has to ruin it for everybody else. :shakehead



Hydrolic presses and 5 story drops come to mind


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## Woods Walker (Aug 30, 2009)

Toohotruk said:


> It figures that kind of guarantee wouldn't last...there had to be a lot of Fenix lights returned, broken from just plain abuse. Someone always has to ruin it for everybody else. :shakehead


 
I think this has more to do with the Quark lights. Hard to backup a Fenix for life and offer 10 years on his. But this is all off topic. Anyone got the SS iTP yet?


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## adirondackdestroyer (Aug 30, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> Anyone got the SS iTP yet?



It isn't shipping to the dealers until 9/10.

I'm actually really considering getting one, since I was going to order another natural version until I found out about the SS version. 

Does SS really hold up better than HAIII for keychain use? This would be my first SS flashlight, so I wasn't sure.


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## sabre7 (Aug 30, 2009)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> It isn't shipping to the dealers until 9/10.
> 
> I'm actually really considering getting one, since I was going to order another natural version until I found out about the SS version.
> 
> Does SS really hold up better than HAIII for keychain use? This would be my first SS flashlight, so I wasn't sure.



Have you seen this thread about SS flashlights?

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/240603

When polished, they are probably much less likely to show scratches. If the iTP split ring attachment is also SS, it would be less likely to wear through than the softer aluminum. 

SS is much, much heavier however-- my SS Maratac feels even heavier than my aluminum LOD, that could be a consideration for EDC keyring use too.


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## Woods Walker (Aug 30, 2009)

SS should hold up much better and more so for the small split ring hole. For such a small light the extra weight wouldn't be much.


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## GoingGear.com (Sep 1, 2009)

For those wondering about the exact weight, the EOS SS is 24.8g without battery and keychain vs. 9g on the aluminum version.


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## litetube (Sep 1, 2009)

Thats like .86 ounces.


I think it is funny we are talking about lights putting out 80 lumens (ok maybe 60 OTF) and the wghts are in grams. The SS is a little bit more than 3/4s of an ounce!!! I still cant believe the wght of the Alum. one at 9g. I am wearing it on a ball chain around the neck and I am debating the SS , it would look cooler I think and 3/4s of an ounce cant be that much more can it? Push me over the edge here and tell me it aint that much more to wear around the neck every day!!


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## nsx (Sep 1, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I just received mine yesterday, but the low level (1.5 lumen) is as bright as my LOD Q4 low which stated ~8-10 lumen. Can anyone confirm that they got the same brightness on low level? Thanks.


I received my iTP A3 EOS Upgrade today. Compared to my L0D, the medium is about the same, the low is noticeably dimmer, and the high seems just a tad brighter. Overall, it's a very nice little light for the price! I removed the keychain ring and the pocket clip, and attached it to my key ring using the small split ring. The shorter body and narrower battery tube do make a noticeable difference in my pocket, which was what I was hoping for. The free Going Gear carabiner that was thrown in is a nice touch too.

I think I would have prefered the knurling on the Maratac version, but the keychain anchor point on the Maratac seems like a weak point (I don't intend to tailstand a keychain light anyway), and $8 more (for shipping) makes it a poorer value IMO.

Very happy with my purchase. :twothumbs


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## sabre7 (Sep 1, 2009)

Any word if the SS iTP EOS finish will be polished, or the same bead blasted finish as the Maratac?


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## clickit (Sep 1, 2009)

just put in a order to shineing beam for a upgrade itp black because of all the raves youall have given it.


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## nsx (Sep 1, 2009)

Here are some photos and beam shots (showing the hot spots from approx 1m away) compared to my Fenix L0D CE. I'm running on Eneloops.












Medium mode: L0D CE on left, iTP on right. 1/8sec, f2.7





Low mode: L0D CE on left, iTP on right. 1/8sec, f2.7





High mode: L0D CE on left, iTP on right. 1/15sec, f2.7


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## adirondackdestroyer (Sep 1, 2009)

Nice pics! The EOS is spanking the LOD in the high setting in your pics (at least in throw anyway).


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## dealgrabber2002 (Sep 4, 2009)

I found out that my eyes was playing trick on me... The LOD Q4 low is brighter than the A3 EOS. Silly me... I saw the vanilla beam of the Q4 compare to the white of the EOS, I automatically assumed/thought the EOS was brighter.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Sep 5, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I found out that my eyes was playing trick on me... The LOD Q4 low is brighter than the A3 EOS. Silly me... I saw the vanilla beam of the Q4 compare to the white of the EOS, I automatically assumed/thought the EOS was brighter.




I think it's the smooth beam combined with the great tint that makes the EOS seem much brighter on low then it actually is.
I thought it looked brighter than my Fenix E01 when I first compared them, but when I tested them in my lightbox the E01 is actually over 3.5x as bright as the EOS.


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## oronocova (Sep 6, 2009)

Hello, thought I'd share what I have done. I had been carrying it as pictured but now I took the key chain lug off and glued a small magnet to the end and glued the clip to the light. I used Gorilla Glue, it doesn't feel like it's going anywhere soon. I use the clip to clip it of course but it also makes a good anti-roll feature. It's what I carry everyday to work. I also added a little "write-right" (I think it's called that) over the lens. ... No noticeable drop in output, no change in beam shape but now the lens is protected more. Now if we can convince iTP to make an all flood model I'd be really happy.


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## defloyd77 (Sep 6, 2009)

Excellent job oronocova!!! I too am trying to figure out something for attatching a magnet, but I don't have anything to remove the lug, so I'm thinking of maybe a magnet with a little hole in the middle for the lug or something that just slips on so I can remove the magnet if I want.


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## oronocova (Sep 6, 2009)

Thanks,

I used a small bench grinder to remove the lug. You could use a dremel tool or even a file. The Al is pretty soft so any method won't be too hard. With a file you might have to finish up with some emory cloth as you might not be able to file down really flat. If you wanted to remove the magnet you could put it inside of some type of rubber boot that would slide on and off that end of the light.


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## defloyd77 (Sep 6, 2009)

oronocova said:


> Thanks,
> 
> I used a small bench grinder to remove the lug. You could use a dremel tool or even a file. The Al is pretty soft so any method won't be too hard. With a file you might have to finish up with some emory cloth as you might not be able to file down really flat. If you wanted to remove the magnet you could put it inside of some type of rubber boot that would slide on and off that end of the light.



A Chapstick cap works, I'll be using that until I can figure something better.


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## pamparius (Sep 7, 2009)

this little light bites and it throws pretty well, for the price, this light is so worth to buy... i am so happy with this light


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## wesinator (Sep 10, 2009)

I finally convinced my parents to let me order this light, I ordered it about 5 days ago and i just got an email today saying that they ran out and it is now on back order. so i have to wait another 7-10 days for them to ship to the ware house, then i will probably have to wait 5 more days for it to ship here. By then there could very well be a better light out. It gos with out saying that i am not too happy with battery junction right now.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Sep 10, 2009)

You can cancel the order and order it from shiningbeam.com. Great customer service. And shipping is like $2.75 for most of the states and it gets to you within 2-3 days. Well at least for me, it took only 2 days to ship to California. Also get 6% discount.

Edit: sorry, I got the discount wrong, it's 6%. But if you look at the cpfmp, you will find some with 10% off.


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## nsx (Sep 10, 2009)

wesinator said:


> I finally convinced my parents to let me order this light, I ordered it about 5 days ago and i just got an email today saying that they ran out and it is now on back order. so i have to wait another 7-10 days for them to ship to the ware house, then i will probably have to wait 5 more days for it to ship here. By then there could very well be a better light out. It gos with out saying that i am not too happy with battery junction right now.


I received excellent service from Going Gear, and the shipping was very inexpensive (under $2 to AZ). They're located in Georgia so you should be able to get yours in no time. There's also a 10% discount. I love my iTP A3 EOS Upgrade! So much so that I ordered two more, and they're on their way.


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## dandism (Sep 10, 2009)

nsx said:


> I received excellent service from Going Gear, and the shipping was very inexpensive (under $2 to AZ). They're located in Georgia so you should be able to get yours in no time. There's also a 10% discount. I love my iTP A3 EOS Upgrade! So much so that I ordered two more, and they're on their way.


 +1 for goinggear


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## csshih (Sep 10, 2009)

Flashlightsngear.com has priority mail for 3.95  for under 49$

49+, free priority


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## f22shift (Sep 11, 2009)

there are alot of choices to buy the itp. i'm surprised they waited 5 days before telling it's backordered. pretty bad cs if you ask me.


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## kramer5150 (Sep 11, 2009)

Happy with my shiningbeam purchase. Bryan emailed me the USPS tracking number and shipped mine 16 minutes after I placed the order!!! NY-NY to California in ~48 hours!!!:thumbsup:


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## Toohotruk (Sep 11, 2009)

I had a great experience with Shiningbeam as well...VERY fast shipping! :twothumbs


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## maxilux (Sep 11, 2009)

Here you can see 2 real Pictures of the A3 EOS SS:

http://schiermeier.biz/html/itp_a3_eos_stainless_steel.html


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## 1anrm (Sep 11, 2009)

thanks Maxilux those last two pics made drool... can't wait for mine to arrive. I ordered mine from Goinggear.


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## gunga (Sep 11, 2009)

Wow, those look nice.

I like the Maratac better myself, but I think the itp version may be better for gifting because of the nice packaging and the fixed keychain attachment.

How durable is the keychain and attachment?


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## Toohotruk (Sep 11, 2009)

The keychain seems pretty durable to me...I've been carrying mine in with the keys, change, pocketknife, etc, for a couple of weeks now, and both the light and the chain still look brand new. There are a couple of small chips in the HA on the edge of the tail end of the light from where the chain rubs on it, but that's the only damage, and you have to look really close to see that.

I think the anodizing is better than on my L0D Q4! Seems like wear was visible within a few days, carried in the same pocket when it was new.


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## maxilux (Sep 12, 2009)

1anrm said:


> thanks Maxilux those last two pics made drool... can't wait for mine to arrive. I ordered mine from Goinggear.



In real it looks better as on the pictures, very, very nice light for this price.


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## sabre7 (Sep 14, 2009)

Just received my iTP EOS SS. I might be wrong, but the finish appears to be _chrome plated_, not polished SS. :thinking:

Maybe others more knowledgeable on finishes can comment when they get theirs.


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## DigMe (Sep 14, 2009)

gunga said:


> Wow, those look nice.
> 
> I like the Maratac better myself, but I think the itp version may be better for gifting because of the nice packaging and the fixed keychain attachment.
> 
> How durable is the keychain and attachment?



what is it that you like better about the Maratac?

brad


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## maxilux (Sep 14, 2009)

sabre7 said:


> Just received my iTP EOS SS. I might be wrong, but the finish appears to be _chrome plated_, not polished SS. :thinking:
> 
> Maybe others more knowledgeable on finishes can comment when they get theirs.




It looks a little bit so, but look in to the body....
And it is nonmagnetic, so i think it is SS.


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## gunga (Sep 14, 2009)

DigMe said:


> what is it that you like better about the Maratac?
> 
> brad


 
I like the knurling vs grooves, I prefer having the flat tail for tailstanding, and I like that the clip has a space to be fully reversable.

I just have to do the split ring mod on my Maratac to get a decent keychain attachment.


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## sabre7 (Sep 14, 2009)

maxilux said:


> It looks a little bit so, but look in to the body....
> And it is nonmagnetic, so i think it is SS.



Yes, it appears to be SS inside, but is the outside chrome plated instead of polished? It is most obvious when looking on the end where the split ring attachment is.


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## greenLED (Sep 14, 2009)

Guys, what's y'all's take on the long-term durability of the keychain attachment point (the post where the small split ring goes)? 

It doesn't look very big or sturdy to me.


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## sabre7 (Sep 14, 2009)

greenLED said:


> Guys, what's y'all's take on the long-term durability of the keychain attachment point (the post where the small split ring goes)?
> 
> It doesn't look very big or sturdy to me.




It appears plenty sturdy. The attachment is about 1/8" across and attached solidly, there are no seams or edges where it meets the body, so it seems to be molded into the tail all as one piece. The hole and split ring are smaller gauge than those on Fenix AAAs so a larger split ring can't be used, the split ring isn't at all weak or flimsy though. It would take quite a while for a split ring to wear through.


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## DigMe (Sep 14, 2009)

sabre7 said:


> Yes, it appears to be SS inside, but is the outside chrome plated instead of polished? It is most obvious when looking on the end where the split ring attachment is.



Yeah the Maratac overall just looks like a nicer light but I want to buy from flashlightsngear.com because of his awesome service and fast shipping when I ordered my P20C2 and he carries the ITP. I really don't care for Countycomm's inflated shipping charge either.

Does the ITP come with a clip at all or just the keyring? I'd really prefer a clip. 

brad


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## sabre7 (Sep 14, 2009)

ITP EOS has a removeable clip and a permanent keyring attachment on the end of the tail.


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## nsx (Sep 14, 2009)

greenLED said:


> Guys, what's y'all's take on the long-term durability of the keychain attachment point (the post where the small split ring goes)?
> 
> It doesn't look very big or sturdy to me.


It's actually very sturdy. I have it on a keychain with lots of other items and I have no worries about it breaking off whatsoever. It's a heck of a lot sturdier than the skinny piece of metal wire on the Maratac, which is why people are resorting to buying snap rings. The only drawback is that you can't tailstand the iTP, but that's no biggie for me on a keychain light.


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## greenLED (Sep 14, 2009)

:thanks: guys!

nsx, that pic :rock: It looks a whole lot beefier than the ArcAAA attachment point, which was my reference point.


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## Mundele (Sep 14, 2009)

DigMe said:


> I really don't care for Countycomm's inflated shipping charge either.



That's exactly why I didn't order from them. I like a lot of their stuff, but man you have to buy a ton to justify their crazy shipping prices. GoingGear charged me less than $2 to ship the ITP light to me

--Matt


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## Braddah_Bill (Sep 14, 2009)

I HAD the 3 stage for about 1 week, I liked it so much I gave it away :tinfoil: to a good friend. We both laughed at the time cause his comment was, "What you upgrading me again?" as we can't remember how many lights I gave him.

So now, me being without an ITP EOS 1AAA, what do I do  

I ordered 2 - ITP A3 SS EOS Upgrade Edition :thumbsup: and I can't wait for them bad boys to come.


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## sabre7 (Sep 14, 2009)

Anyone else get the SS version and have an opinion whether the finish is chrome plated or polished?


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## GoingGear.com (Sep 14, 2009)

sabre7 said:


> Anyone else get the SS version and have an opinion whether the finish is chrome plated or polished?



The one I've been carrying in my pocket looks polished. You can still see tiny machining grooves on the vertical lines of the body, which I would think would be covered up and have the more uniform shininess of the rest of the light if they did chrome plating.


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## TONY M (Sep 15, 2009)

My two olive/natural EOS's arrived today.

I'm pleased to say that I am very happy with them. 

They really are small, have good output, feel nice, quality is high and there is a proper low unlike my LD01. Oh forgot to mention great value too!:twothumbs


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## maskman (Sep 18, 2009)

> Anyone else get the SS version and have an opinion whether the finish is chrome plated or polished?


 
The SS versions are heavier than the aluminum EOS, such as it is with stainless. I'm completely satisfied they are SS and glad I purchased it.


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## think2x (Sep 18, 2009)

I ordered my upgraded SS version from flashlightsngear.com. Great service and I love the EOS. Not too fond of the clip but my intention was for the keychain so it's fine for me.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Sep 18, 2009)

think2x said:


> Not too fond of the clip but my intention was for the keychain so it's fine for me.


 
I okay with the clip, but I am not fond that it cannot tailstand.


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## TONY M (Sep 19, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I okay with the clip, but I am not fond that it cannot tailstand.


Actually they can tailstand if you do it right lol. Its fun trying but is of little use in the real world as it is so unsteady.

I wish they could tailstand properly too.


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## Tempsho (Sep 19, 2009)

Does anybody notice that with the standard edition, (might be with the 3 mode as well) that when the light is off, there isnt too many threads left holding on the head of the light? I just got mine, and it's a very nice 3AAA light, but I feel that when I turn the head to turn off the light it feels like it could spin the rest of the way off if I keep it in my pocket or around my neck. Makes me worried a little bit. Anybody else have this concern with theirs?


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## oronocova (Sep 19, 2009)

^I had not noticed but mine is like that as well. Looks like about a full turn give or take after "off" until the head is loose. It would be nice if it was at least 2 full turns. I have been using the brown "cosmoline" (I think it's cosmoline, made by the same company anyway) lube on all my lights lately. I think someone on the board is/was selling the lube, it's good. It's pretty thick and I haven't had the same worry as you have... but if my threads were more slippery I could see where it would be an issue.

edit... I've been messing with it here for a few minutes. On mine if I turn it just enough to be "Off" I have about 1.5 or just better turns before the head is loose. But also if I turn it just barely "off" I can squeeze it and make it come back on. It's not until about halfway between "off" and the head being loose that you can no longer squeeze it on. I guess it boils down to how far you turn it when turning it off. If you just barely turn it off and it is not carried where it would be squeezed and kept on then I think you would be ok.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Sep 19, 2009)

I had mentioned this when I first received mine. I wish they would have at least enough threads so that it would take 1 more full turn to remove the head. I don't think it will come off on its own, but more threads wouldn't hurt.


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## defloyd77 (Sep 19, 2009)

TONY M said:


> Actually they can tailstand if you do it right lol. Its fun trying but is of little use in the real world as it is so unsteady.
> 
> I wish they could tailstand properly too.



LOL, reminds me of my freshman year in highschool, seeing who can balance the most coins on their side.


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## dougmwpsu (Sep 20, 2009)

Tempsho said:


> Does anybody notice that with the standard edition, (might be with the 3 mode as well) that when the light is off, there isnt too many threads left holding on the head of the light? I just got mine, and it's a very nice 3AAA light, but I feel that when I turn the head to turn off the light it feels like it could spin the rest of the way off if I keep it in my pocket or around my neck. Makes me worried a little bit. Anybody else have this concern with theirs?



On mine, it takes about 4 full revolutions from a true off till the head comes off. It would be just about impossible for the head to twist itself off in my pocket. I'd say it's about half a revolution before the light is unthreaded enough that it can't come on from pressure. I wonder where the discrepancy comes from? Could there be a manufacturing defect on your light?


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## kramer5150 (Sep 20, 2009)

dougmwpsu said:


> On mine, it takes about 4 full revolutions from a true off till the head comes off. It would be just about impossible for the head to twist itself off in my pocket. I'd say it's about half a revolution before the light is unthreaded enough that it can't come on from pressure. I wonder where the discrepancy comes from? Could there be a manufacturing defect on your light?




x2... FWIW mine is the 3-mode version.
From just turning off it takes ~2 turns to dis-engage the O-ring, and ~2 more after that to remove the head completely. No way this things coming off.:thumbsup:

sounds like it could be a condition with the single-mode model.??


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## Tempsho (Sep 20, 2009)

kramer5150 said:


> x2... FWIW mine is the 3-mode version.
> From just turning off it takes ~2 turns to dis-engage the O-ring, and ~2 more after that to remove the head completely. No way this things coming off.:thumbsup:
> 
> sounds like it could be a condition with the single-mode model.??


 
Can anybody verify the difference with the 3 mode vs. single mode?

- single mode about 1.0 - 1.5 turns until the head comes off after light turns off.

- 3 mode about 4 turns until the head comes off after light turns off.


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## oronocova (Sep 20, 2009)

I looked at mine again. You all are right, what I am terming the head being loose, is just the head going past the o-ring and feeling loose. It does take about 4 turns on both my iTP single mode and my Maratac 3 mode. Both appear to have the same amount of threading past the o-ring. So that is a good thing.


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## TONY M (Sep 20, 2009)

Takes about 4 1/2 turns from the on/fully tightened position to remove the head with mine.

I know that the single mode has a shorter head than the 3 mode.


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## Black Rose (Sep 20, 2009)

Anyone found a solution to the flickering in the 3-mode version?

Drives me nuts that I have to really crank on it to get it to not flicker.
If I turn it on and run a full cycle through all modes, then it seems fine. :shrug:


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## sabre7 (Sep 20, 2009)

Black Rose said:


> Anyone found a solution to the flickering in the 3-mode version?
> 
> Drives me nuts that I have to really crank on it to get it to not flicker.
> If I turn it on and run a full cycle through all modes, then it seems fine. :shrug:



Sounds defective-- return for exchange/refund?


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## Black Rose (Sep 20, 2009)

There have been other reports of the iTP and it's Maratac cousin having the same flicker problem, so it's not isolated.
Seems to be a "feature".

It's still a great little light.


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## sabre7 (Sep 20, 2009)

^ I have a couple 3 modes of each brand, no flicker problem at all other than usual PMW. Maybe lightly using something abrasive on contact edge of battery tube like emery cloth, steel wool or very fine sandpaper would improve contact.


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## Flic (Sep 20, 2009)

sabre7 said:


> ^ I have a couple 3 modes of each brand, no flicker problem at all other than usual PMW. Maybe lightly using something abrasive on contact edge of battery tube like emery cloth, steel wool or very fine sandpaper would improve contact.



I've had great success honing the edge of the barrel on several lights using a very fine knife sharpening stone. Make sure to have the barrel perfectly perpendicular and make small circles. This removes any tiny burrs. I use a quality sharpening oil on the stone. Then clean it all off and you should be good to go. And I use Deoxit on the contact points.


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## kramer5150 (Sep 20, 2009)

Flic said:


> I've had great success honing the edge of the barrel on several lights using a very fine knife sharpening stone. Make sure to have the barrel perfectly perpendicular and make small circles. This removes any tiny burrs. I use a quality sharpening oil on the stone. Then clean it all off and you should be good to go. And I use Deoxit on the contact points.



Technically this voids the warranty, so I have never openly posted this little tip that I do with all my lights.

I use 600, 800, 1200, 2000 grit wet sand paper and carefully/evenly wet sand the body tube end flat. I just soak the paper and lay it flat on a 12"x12"x.5" slab of delrin on my workbench. I grasp the flashlight body like a pencil and sand the end in a small circular pattern to true up the end of the tube. After the 2000 grit I polish it with some Blue Magic metal polishing compound and bring it to a shine. After that I spray the tube with electronics parts spray cleaner, the kind thats safe for use on plastics. It removes any metal fragments and residual polish.

I do this with all my lights that contact the body tube cylinder end to the driver board. Many time sit improves on the "feel" of the twist switch as it engages the ring on the DC-DC board.

I did this with my ITP-3A and it works fine and is flicker free. Its a very tight fit with the O-ring gtasket, so i still need to use 2 hands though. it also helps to keep the tube end clean and free of thread lube.


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## Black Rose (Sep 21, 2009)

I ran the end of the light over a Carborundum #149 pocket hone and it seems to be working better.

I have to use it two handed since the o-ring has swelled a bit since applying some dielectric grease to the threads.


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## geepondy (Sep 23, 2009)

I was playing with mine a bit using an Eneloop. While this is a fine light and a great value, there's no way this is putting out 80 lumens. What you guess, 40-50?


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## oronocova (Sep 23, 2009)

I have a Fenix T1 which is supposed to put out 60L on "low" and my Maratac and iTP both edge it out in a ceiling bounce. This is with lithium energizers. I'd say it is at least 60L.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Sep 24, 2009)

I think 80 lumen is at emitter, not out-the-front.


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## litetube (Sep 24, 2009)

I dont know if it's 80 lumens OTF, probably not , but for a AAA it is pretty impressive. And even if it is 60 lumens OTF I absolutley love these little lites. 

I have used this lite on a chain around my neck more than any other lite I have owned in the past 2 years. I use it every single day . No rechargeables just Lithium Primaries. For $20 bucks it is fantastic.

Its changed my whole personal philosophy on lites and EDC . Just goes to show it dont take $50-$450 bucks to get a nice useful tool that does its job well


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## kramer5150 (Sep 24, 2009)

oronocova said:


> I have a Fenix T1 which is supposed to put out 60L on "low" and my Maratac and iTP both edge it out in a ceiling bounce. This is with lithium energizers. I'd say it is at least 60L.



I would agree with this, although I don't have any light in the 60 Lumen range to direct compare it too. So I'm just estimating.:twothumbs


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## geepondy (Sep 25, 2009)

Of the various discussions of this and the Maratac light, has it been discussed/stated whether the light is reverse polarity protected? If not, will you definitely smoke the light by inserting the battery backwards?


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## adirondackdestroyer (Sep 26, 2009)

I've tested two ITP EOS 1AAA lights in my homemade lightbox, and both of them tested out at a little over 60 lumens with a fresh Alkaline. I would imagine if someone tested them in an IS that it would get at least 60 OTF lumens and less than 70 OTF lumens.


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## Tempsho (Sep 29, 2009)

I've had my ITP A3 EOS standard edition for a couple weeks now and I love it! It never leaves my neck. The total output is quite impressive considering the size of this light. Even the runtime on high for the single mode version is pretty good for just one AAA battery.


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## vincebdx (Sep 30, 2009)

Please ITP make an EOS 1AAA with the XP-G R5 :bow:


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## dealgrabber2002 (Sep 30, 2009)

vincebdx said:


> Please ITP make an EOS 1AAA with the XP-G R5 :bow:


 
If they can get their hands on the XP-G R5. Remember when the R2 came out? Only a selected few was able to get it. I think we still have to wait for awhile before iTp will make a EOS with the XP-G R5


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## vincebdx (Sep 30, 2009)

XP-G R5 are available and S2 only in limited quantity.
4sevens stock for Titanium Quarks, 18000 XP-G R5


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## dealgrabber2002 (Sep 30, 2009)

vincebdx said:


> XP-G R5 are available and S2 only in limited quantity.
> 4sevens stock for Titanium Quarks, 18000 XP-G R5


 
Because 47's knows people that knew some people that knew a few people.


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## boomhauer (Oct 3, 2009)

I've played with my new upgraded natural EOS for the past couple days - what a nice little light. 

It's even smaller than I had expected, and although the small size is great for edc, I find it not quite optimum for ergonomics. Perhaps it'll just take some time getting used to, but my medium-size hand still feels a little clumsy in one-hand twisty mode due to the small size.

I had not originally intended for this to be a keychain light, but it seems to make sense since it offers a little more to "grip" onto. With a lithium battery, the weight is negligible - and the length is about the same as a standard key. I've only ever used Photon-type lights on a keychain, but the EOS seems right at home there.


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## Hooked on Fenix (Oct 4, 2009)

Just got two of these at a gun show today at the Del Mar Fair in San Diego County, CA for $20 each (it ends tommorow). Took them on a hike tonight. While they are probably about as bright as they get in that size, I guess my other lights spoiled me on brightness, runtime, and tint. It was foggy so I had to use them on high. Runtime on an alkaline didn't get me through half the 6 mile hike. Next time, I'll use lithiums or Eneloops, or use a different light. I don't think these are best for long hikes, however for EDC around town and for a backup light for backpacking and camping, they should work great. I had a Fenix TK11 R2 and a new Inova XO to compare them to. The EOS was just a little dimmer than the TK11 on low, and about half as bright as the Inova XO. At home, it seemed about as bright as my LRI Photon Rex. It's a pretty nice light considering the Fenix light equivalent is over double the cost and I don't need strobe or S.O.S. in that type of light. I like the better spread of brightness settings as well. That low low will be an asset in an emergency. Not even my Fenix EO1 will run 50 hours (even on a lithium battery).


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## defloyd77 (Oct 5, 2009)

Hooked on Fenix said:


> That low low will be an asset in an emergency. Not even my Fenix EO1 will run 50 hours (even on a lithium battery).



I seem to recall someone doing a long term runtime test on the E01 and it's runtime went well beyond what Fenix states. I can't find the results anywhere, but something in me felt that I needed to put the E01 head to head with the iTP when it comes to starting up on low batteries. I have many, many AAA alkalines from back in my RC car racing days and other various things that I ran down in my MP3 player and saved.

I've tested every single one in the past, making sure they worked in my E01 and when I did that, only 1 out of the 30+ AAA's didn't work and it was a heavy duty one. Last night I decided to put the iTP to the test. It did very well to say the least. Better than the old Dorcy AAA. These were batteries that would not even turn my MP3 player's non lit LCD on for a second to show a low battery sign. Some of the cells even had enough juice in them for me to be able to tell the difference between the modes. But could it match the E01 at it's vamprism?

Nope. I finally managed to find one AAA that would light up for a fraction of a second and turn off. Wouldn't matter if I quickly switched to low, it'd still turn off. I then tried this battery in the E01 and when I turned it on, it like the iTP turned on at a dim level, but unlike the EOS, the E01 dropped into moon mode, lower than my Quark's .2 lumen moon mode, but it's still useable.

I was definately suprised that the EOS did do better than the Dorcy AAA, even with it's medium mode first UI, but in the end, as a true long term emergency light, the E01 triumphs yet again.


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## Woods Walker (Oct 5, 2009)

I like my ITP but nothing has came out yet that can replace my E01. I have brighter 1XAAA light the S2 and ITP but there is just so much win with the E01 when all the factors are added up.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Oct 6, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> I like my ITP but nothing has came out yet that can replace my E01. I have brighter 1XAAA light the S2 and ITP but there is just so much win with the E01 when all the factors are added up.


 
I agree. I gave my EOS to my sister. The E01 can take a beating and fires up almost any AAA I found lying around.

BTW: this is the ONLY light that I kept over 1 yr. The rest I buy it, uses it here and there, then either gave it away or sold it. The E01 is a true keeper for me.


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## kramer5150 (Oct 6, 2009)

I have also found the A3 EOS to fail as a battery vampire. It just drops off when used with _completely _dead batteries that barely power my fenix E0... so I don't think it could completely replace lights like the E01 and gerber IU.

This could be seen as an advantage however for NiMH users who don't want to over-drain the cell.


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## Woods Walker (Oct 6, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I agree. I gave my EOS to my sister. The E01 can take a beating and fires up almost any AAA I found lying around.
> 
> BTW: this is the ONLY light that I kept over 1 yr. The rest I buy it, uses it here and there, then either gave it away or sold it. The E01 is a true keeper for me.


 
So far the EOS has taken a few good drops on the road but don't think it could take the same beating as an E01. For the trail it is the E01 but I EDC the EOS or S2 as like the higher settings. In the dark dank woods even the 8ish lumens from the E01 is enough for backup and it will just not stop working if the battery gets low. On the flip side I did use the E0S during a AT hike/camp out a month ago. Worked good.


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## kinkbmxco (Oct 6, 2009)

Anyone else have some solutions for a replacement clip? Mine already broke...Tried to use the clip on an old maglite I had lying around but it didn't fit right, also tried a pencil clip with no luck.


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## kramer5150 (Oct 6, 2009)

kinkbmxco said:


> Anyone else have some solutions for a replacement clip? Mine already broke...Tried to use the clip on an old maglite I had lying around but it didn't fit right, also tried a pencil clip with no luck.



This one might work...
http://www.lighthound.com/Fenix-Flashlight-E0-E1-L0-Pocket-Clip_p_324.html


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## davidt1 (Oct 7, 2009)

kinkbmxco said:


> Anyone else have some solutions for a replacement clip? Mine already broke...Tried to use the clip on an old maglite I had lying around but it didn't fit right, also tried a pencil clip with no luck.



Try this pencil clip. All metal and made in Japan. Strongest and best clip I have used. Fits the Maratac like white on rice. Should fit that light of yours too.


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## oronocova (Oct 7, 2009)

My clip also already broke. They are not very strong but what I like about them is that they come out and are bent up before going back down. I guess that is called "Deep carry." I hope they make the clip available by itself.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Oct 7, 2009)

davidt1 said:


> Try this pencil clip. All metal and made in Japan. Strongest and best clip I have used. Fits the Maratac like white on rice. Should fit that light of yours too.


 
Pretty clever!


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## dts71 (Oct 14, 2009)

I recently received my ITP EOS 3A and the low setting flickers. It must be something with the regulation. The problem starts 10-15s after I enter the low mode and then the output fluctuates rather then flickers. Anyone got similar problems related to one mode? 

Deoxit and tightening the head does not help - it doesn't seem to be a contact problem.

I'm trying to decide on returning it for a new or living with it :thinking:


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## ergotelis (Oct 14, 2009)

dts71 said:


> I recently received my ITP EOS 3A and the low setting flickers. It must be something with the regulation. The problem starts 10-15s after I enter the low mode and then the output fluctuates rather then flickers. Anyone got similar problems related to one mode?
> 
> Deoxit and tightening the head does not help - it doesn't seem to be a contact problem.
> 
> I'm trying to decide on returning it for a new or living with it :thinking:



Do you know what is PWM? If yes, then your light is defective probably...


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## kramer5150 (Oct 14, 2009)

dts71 said:


> I recently received my ITP EOS 3A and the low setting flickers. It must be something with the regulation. The problem starts 10-15s after I enter the low mode and then the output fluctuates rather then flickers. Anyone got similar problems related to one mode?
> 
> Deoxit and tightening the head does not help - it doesn't seem to be a contact problem.
> 
> I'm trying to decide on returning it for a new or living with it :thinking:



Hmm sounds like a bum light.
It does have a low-medium mode PWM, but its only visible with fast moving objects, or waving the light around really fast. IIRC someone measured the PWM on a scope at 200 Hz. If you are just looking at the light while its motionless and its visibly flickering (like a police strobe) then I think its defective.


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## musicalfruit (Oct 15, 2009)

Just got my ITP EOS in the mail. Wanted the Maratac but couldn't justify the extra expense ($20 vs $32).

Can't wait until dark to compare it to the P4-L0D that I've been EDCing for awhile. Given the small size, not sure if I want to try a 10440 in it though.


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## NonSenCe (Oct 16, 2009)

hmm.. my keychain light, the stainless itp makes buzzing sound. the new natural version that i just unpacked doesnt.

tried other batteries.. cleaned it and deoxit is in use. the ss just makes a bzz sound.. a bit like its noise is linked to pwm, as on medium its louder than in low.. and on high its silent/almost silent.. (my ears buzz a bit too)

how does one dismantle the lights.. somone mentioned in this thread doing that in maratac thread.. but which thread.. which page? 

i was thinking about swapping the module from natural version into SS that i will use more.

(sending the flashlight back and forth for guarantee fix/swap gets too expensive for a light this cheap)

EDIT: found one thread which said to twist one way and then back counter clockwise.. well.. my light is too tightly glued to be opened that way easily.. i think i already slightly mangled the small drilled holes that are meant to be there for that.


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## dandism (Oct 16, 2009)

NonSenCe said:


> hmm.. my keychain light, the stainless itp makes buzzing sound. the new natural version that i just unpacked doesnt.
> 
> tried other batteries.. cleaned it and deoxit is in use. the ss just makes a bzz sound.. a bit like its noise is linked to pwm, as on medium its louder than in low.. and on high its silent/almost silent.. (my ears buzz a bit too)
> 
> ...


 I took mine apart and ended up ripping the wires off the driver. I would recommend just sending it back.


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## srmd22 (Oct 16, 2009)

Just received my stainless steel ITP EOS AAA in the mail today. I really dig it but it is acting flaky. Instead of cycling through the three modes in a consistent manner, it jumps around a bit. It'll go from high to low, and bypass middle, for example. Or it will come on in the same level a few times and then start cycling again.

I took out the battery (brand new lithium) and cleaned the contacts. I also tried a new alkaline. No effect.

Anyone else had this problem, with this (or any other light for that matter) and figured out a fix? I actually recently had a similar issue with another cheap 2 stage light.

I know it's not user error, since my LD01 cycles through its three modes flawlessly every time, with either type of aaa, with the same twisty mechanism.


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## EngrPaul (Oct 17, 2009)

Just got a S/S, workmanship is excellent! My only surprise is that the grooved region isn't polished. *Has anyone completed polishing the grooves?* Does it make it look better?


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## oronocova (Oct 17, 2009)

My SS Maratac did not change modes correctly either. I have sent it back to CC for replacement. It was doing the exact same thing your SS iTP was.


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## compasillo (Oct 18, 2009)

I had the same problem with one of my four SS ITP EOS and a Maratac SS also (not happened with natural or black ones - four of each)). In case of ITP I clean threads and contacts with deoxit gold and it seemd to fix the problem. The Maratac still fails sometimes though... (?) It tends to that behaviour if changing modes quickly (less than 1/2 sec) so the driver doesn't "notice" when off. Not a big issue most of the time but I cannot return it to CC since I'm not in the US.


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## srmd22 (Oct 18, 2009)

Funny, but after messing with the light for a few days, the problem has gotten much less frequent. It still happens once in awhile, but as of this morning, 4/5 times it cycles normally. It seems to work better if twist it very firmly and with a bit of a wait between changing modes.

I wouldn't have sent it back anyway, since the cost of shipping is too high in relation to the cost of the light, for me.


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## recDNA (Oct 18, 2009)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> I had mentioned this when I first received mine. I wish they would have at least enough threads so that it would take 1 more full turn to remove the head. I don't think it will come off on its own, but more threads wouldn't hurt.


 
I lost the head of my Fenix LD01 that way. Won't buy another for that reason.


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## recDNA (Oct 18, 2009)

srmd22 said:


> Just received my stainless steel ITP EOS AAA in the mail today. I really dig it but it is acting flaky. Instead of cycling through the three modes in a consistent manner, it jumps around a bit. It'll go from high to low, and bypass middle, for example. Or it will come on in the same level a few times and then start cycling again.
> 
> I took out the battery (brand new lithium) and cleaned the contacts. I also tried a new alkaline. No effect.
> 
> ...


 
I bought the "plaain" one-mode version. Works fine but I am worried about the head falling off.

The idea of the lube is to make it harder to fall off? I thought the lube would make it turn even easier? Would they sell the right lube in my local firearm shop?


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## recDNA (Oct 18, 2009)

vincebdx said:


> Please ITP make an EOS 1AAA with the XP-G R5 :bow:


 
Id prefer a clicky that the end though. The XP-G is going to make it too expensive to lose the head and not be mad.


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## compasillo (Oct 19, 2009)

vincebdx said:


> Please ITP make an EOS 1AAA with the XP-G R5 :bow:




*+1

*(Let's see what's coming from Battery Junction and its IlluminaTi)


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## compasillo (Oct 19, 2009)

Tempsho said:


> I've had my ITP A3 EOS standard edition for a couple weeks now and I love it! It never leaves my neck. The total output is quite impressive considering the size of this light. Even the runtime on high for the single mode version is pretty good for just one AAA battery.




Nice pictures indeed :thumbsup: (don't want to quote them though. Not necessary to drag this thread out)


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## EngrPaul (Oct 19, 2009)

EngrPaul said:


> Just got a S/S, workmanship is excellent! My only surprise is that the grooved region isn't polished. *Has anyone completed polishing the grooves?* Does it make it look better?


 
Well, it took a while to get the grooves but worked out fine.

Used a dremel and polishing wheel with compound, in the direction of the grooves. Then went back and touched-up the ungrooved setions circumferentially. Bug & Tar remover got rid of the polishing compound. Looks awesome now.


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## compasillo (Oct 19, 2009)

My four SS's are polished enough even the grooves. All they shine bright by now so no need new polishing... Should be a hard work to do with such a small flashlight (even much more with four of them) .


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## recDNA (Oct 19, 2009)

I bought the black aluminum 1 mode model. Cheap I then was and jealous I now am.

My 1 mode has 4 full turns before it unscrews after being turned off.


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## eala (Oct 19, 2009)

srmd22 said:


> Just received my stainless steel ITP EOS AAA in the mail today. I really dig it but it is acting flaky. Instead of cycling through the three modes in a consistent manner, it jumps around a bit. It'll go from high to low, and bypass middle, for example.



I have had the same issue with my SS Maratac. Upon close inspection of the circuit board, I could see a small piece of copper that had become disengaged and is contacting the side of the light closing the circuit with the battery and causing weird behavior. (if your light sticks on even when you loosen the head a lot, then this is a clear indication of this problem.) I used a swiss army knife to remove the offending copper and the problem went away. I have had one recurrence (today) with a similar solution.

I am wondering if I am simply over using the switching mechanism as it does not seem very robust. Granted that it is a small light at relatively low cost.

eala


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## dealgrabber2002 (Oct 21, 2009)

I don't know if anyone mentioned this or not. I notice the spring in one of my EOS is not solder. It dropped out when I changed the battery for my sister. Anyone else notices that?


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## Liteskr42 (Oct 21, 2009)

While we are shooting different issue out there. This may have been brought up already but is it normal for the Upgrade model to act funky when the battery gets low. I use Lithium primaries only in mine . Last nite after using the lite I turned it off then went to turn it back on and nothing. Then I tried a few more times and then finally it lit up in medium level. tried switching modes and no lite. Kept twisting on and off and after a bit it came on in low. Turned off again then on and nothing. Then the next time I would get another mode and then nothing and so on and so on. Now I know the battery was getting depleted and output was going down noticeably but is it the norm with these great little lites that it is trying to find a level it can run at base on what is left in the battery ? Or does it just start wiggin out and leave you in the dark suddenly and that is the queue for replacing the battery? I did clean all contacts yes. with a new battery it is fine. No other "issues" for me yet and I wear it and use daily around my neck .


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## dandism (Oct 21, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I don't know if anyone mentioned this or not. I notice the spring in one of my EOS is not solder. It dropped out when I changed the battery for my sister. Anyone else notices that?


 They are not soldered, you can just pop it back into the the bottom with the battery.


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## eala (Oct 21, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I don't know if anyone mentioned this or not. I notice the spring in one of my EOS is not solder. It dropped out when I changed the battery for my sister. Anyone else notices that?



It is a good thing as far as I am concerned. I popped mine out, cut it to half its size, bent it a bit so it would not score the battery and put it back in. This way there is less resistance to twisting with stainless (which is notorious for not wanting to be rubbed together). Much smoother operation now.

eala


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## Tempsho (Oct 21, 2009)

compasillo said:


> Nice pictures indeed :thumbsup: (don't want to quote them though. Not necessary to drag this thread out)


 
Thanks  I still use this flashlight more on a day to day basis than any other other light one I own!


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## Luminescent (Oct 22, 2009)

eala said:


> I have had the same issue with my SS Maratac. Upon close inspection of the circuit board, I could see a small piece of copper that had become disengaged and is contacting the side of the light closing the circuit with the battery and causing weird behavior. (if your light sticks on even when you loosen the head a lot, then this is a clear indication of this problem.) I used a swiss army knife to remove the offending copper and the problem went away. I have had one recurrence (today) with a similar solution.
> 
> I am wondering if I am simply over using the switching mechanism as it does not seem very robust. Granted that it is a small light at relatively low cost.
> 
> eala



Good point about keeping the circumference around the edge of the driver board clean of small bits of metal. A simple pointed wooden toothpick is great for sweeping around the edge of the driver board inside the head without scratching or damaging anything.

As far as how robust the switching mechanism is, I actually greatly prefer this type of simple twisty switch. This is exact same switching mechanism used on the L0D, LD01, and P1D Fenix lights as well as dozens of others from several different manufactures.

I have several twisty lights that are still going strong after several years, and have had almost no problems at all with them.

I have had ZERO problems so far with my ITP light.

I did have to remove a tiny bit of metal once on an Ultrafire twisty light to clear up an "always on" short circuit condition similar to the one you mentioned. That little AAA Ultrafire twisty light only cost me 10 dollars, and other than that single case of having to clean the edge of the driver board contact ring, the Ultrafire light had great workmanship and it has since worked perfectly now for more than a year.

When he saw the low cost and nice workmanship on my little Ultrafire B3, my brother bought two larger AA clicky style Ultrafire lights, and one already has experienced a clicky switch failure. The point of this little anecdote is that for low cost lights, you may actually be better off with a simple twisty design, than a cheaply made clicky.

Since you have a Stainless Steel model, you should be aware that there are some special considerations for these lights.

On aluminum twisty lights, the top edge of the battery tube, where it contacts the driver board minus side contact ring, is not anodized so that it can make good contact. A fortunate side effect of this is that the resulting bare aluminum at the point of contact is quite soft compared to the copper contact ring so it doesn't easily damage it.

Unfortunately, this is not the case on the Stainless Steel versions, or on the new Titanium Olight/ITP twisty lights. If you have a SS or Titanium twisty, you should keep in mind that these metals are much harder than the gold plated copper contact ring, and will chew it up if the head is over torqued.

Also, if you are seeing a lot of contact ring wear on your SS light, double-check the top end of your battery tube to make sure that there are no burrs, roughness, or sharp edges, that might damage the contact ring.

This is doubly important on SS and Titanium lights, because even a tiny burr will keep scraping away at the contact ring metal on the bottom of the driver board without being worn down itself.
[FONT=&quot]*
- Luminescent*

[/FONT]


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## compasillo (Oct 22, 2009)

Tempsho said:


> Thanks  I still use this flashlight more on a day to day basis than any other other light one I own!




Me too. I love this tiny beauty among my +200 collection


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## Tempsho (Oct 22, 2009)

recDNA said:


> I bought the "plaain" one-mode version. Works fine but I am worried about the head falling off.


 
I was worried about it too on my single mode version. The more I used the light, the more turns it took to remove the head once the light turns off. It was less than 1 turn when I first got it, and after using it for a couple months or so it's now 2 1/2, almost 3 full turns until the head comes off. 

How long have you had yours for?


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## compasillo (Oct 22, 2009)

Tempsho said:


> I was worried about it too on my single mode version. The more I used the light, the more turns it took to remove the head once the light turns off. It was less than 1 turn when I first got it, and after using it for a couple months or so it's now 2 1/2, almost 3 full turns until the head comes off.
> 
> How long have you had yours for?




My SS is around 4 1/4 to come the head off. It was less than 1 turn in yours? 

My 1 mode ITP is around 3 1/4 turns to unscrew the head. And it is so since i got it. As SureAddicted said, threads don't grow with age (what a problem if they'd do!)


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## SureAddicted (Oct 22, 2009)

Tempsho said:


> I was worried about it too on my single mode version. The more I used the light, the more turns it took to remove the head once the light turns off. It was less than 1 turn when I first got it, and after using it for a couple months or so it's now 2 1/2, almost 3 full turns until the head comes off.
> 
> How long have you had yours for?




I don't think the threads grow with age. Mine took 4 turns for the head to come off the threads when new, right now it still takes 4 turns for the head to separate from the body.


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## Woods Walker (Oct 22, 2009)

Mine is still going strong. :twothumbs


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## eala (Oct 22, 2009)

Luminescent said:


> If you have a SS or Titanium twisty, you should keep in mind that these metals are much harder than the gold plated copper contact ring, and will chew it up if the head is over torqued.



Very good point. I will try to be more gentle. I may have caused the issue.

eala


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## Tempsho (Oct 23, 2009)

SureAddicted said:


> I don't think the threads grow with age. Mine took 4 turns for the head to come off the threads when new, right now it still takes 4 turns for the head to separate from the body.


 
I'm not too sure what changed, all I know is that when I first got the light, it was only 1 - 1 1/2 turns, and now it is a full 3+ turns. A change for the better I wouldy say.


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## Luminescent (Oct 23, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> Mine is still going strong.



I was actually going to suggest the ITP EOS A3 to you over on your "AT Through Hike" thread, but then I noticed that you had already mentioned having one in another post. 

Both the Anodized Aluminum and Stainless models are terrific backpacking lights.

But until now you had to make a choice -

Do I want the light weight of the aluminum version or the greater durability of the stainless version.

If you've got about 40 odd bucks handy, and move quickly enough, you don't have to make that compromise any more . . .

Did you know that Olight is offering a holiday version of the ITP EOS A3 light in solid titanium? 

 EOS A3 Titanium.

This light offers the light weight the aluminum model (only 9 grams!), with the durability and scratch resistance of the Stainless Steel model!

Mine just arrived, and I absolutely LOVE this thing!!!

My sole (very minor) ***** is that, like my old Fenix L0DQ4, which was purchased a few years back at Christmas, the Titanium EOS A3 is a holiday special, and has silly holiday engraving.

Instead of the lettering on the head say "Titanium" or even the old standby "Upgraded" (from what I wonder?), like the Stainless Steel version, because it's a holiday special, the Olight Titanium is engraved "X'mas 2009".

Oh, well, the tiny bells and snowflakes on my red Fenix L0D holiday light have never bothered me at all, and this won't bother me either (because of the greyish silver luster of the titanium, you have to hold the light just right angle to even see the lettering anyway, and I didn't even notice it for a couple of hours).

Glad I snagged one though, because these titanium lights have a way of disappearing after the run sells out. Perhaps the production cost of the sub contractor that does the titanium fabrication is higher than expected, and they decline to bid on another run unless the price is doubled or something like that.

The price is ultra reasonable for a Titanium light. 

In fact it's less than the plain aluminum version of the lackluster Fenix LD01!!! 

Actually, the posted price is the same, but fenix store only offers an 8% discount, while Going Gear gives CPF members a full 10% discount.

To get the free shipping, I also bought a little 4 inch by 1/3 inch (8mm) fire starter rod for just over 4 bucks to kick my total up to over 49 bucks (then watched it drop down to around 45 bucks again after the discount was applied, but I still got both items with free shipping - NICE!)

I'm not sure of how many of these Titanium they made for the holidays, or how long that price will hold, so my advise is, if you want one, MOVE QUICKLY.

- Luminescent


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## Woods Walker (Oct 23, 2009)

That sounds like a great light and so far happy with my black 3-mode one. I am holding off purchasing more gear as there seems to be a flush of new lights with new LED rolling out.


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## Luminescent (Oct 23, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> That sounds like a great light and so far happy with my black 3-mode one. I am holding off purchasing more gear as there seems to be a flush of new lights with new LED rolling out.




Good point, I hiked hundreds of miles along the John Muir trail out here on the West Coast with nothing fancier than a 2 cell MiniMag, and one of the guys in my hiking group carried a 2 C-Cell Rayovac and old 6 pound Dacron Sleeping bag all the way from Onion Valley to Whitney portal (over two high mountain passes, and Mount Whitney itself)

By the way, I used to live in Virginia, and have hiked some sections of the Appalachian Trail north of there. I liked the way it gives you a sense of what the mountains and pristine primordial forests must have looked like when the early settlers first arrived on this continent (at least it does when you get far enough in that you get away from the tailgate campers and beer cans)

I also lived a few years in Colorado, and now live in California. Don't miss the chance to experience the Rockies and Sierras if you get a chance (especially the Sierras which are absolutely otherworldly).

Getting back on topic, it doesn’t matter whether your main interest is backpacking, fishing, or any of a hundred other practical flashlight applications, the titanium version of this light is IDENTICAL in features and functions, so it won’t do anything that you can’t do with the aluminum one for half the money.

I guess I have just had a serious Jones going for a Titanium light, and at just over 40 bucks, I couldn’t resist.

In practical terms, the Stainless ITP EOS A3 Light is also a terrific little light and actually seems to have a little smoother action at this point (Titanium has this really strong tendency towards galling). 

I have lubed up the Titanium light with Krytox and hopefully it seems to be improving over time (the stainless light also felt skritchy and tight when new, and is now quite smooth), but this Krytox stuff is 40 bucks for a 2 oz tube, and is not something everyone will have laying around, so that also may be a consideration.

- Luminescent


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## Woods Walker (Oct 23, 2009)

I did some hiking on the AT in the National park in Virginia. Good County. The treads on my iTP are very smooth and the LED is centered. I clean the light maybe once every two weeks with alcohol and despite the treads coming lubed I cleaned them first thing and used cheap silicon grease from ACE hardware. The stuff seems to work ok. I liked the SS version but think the Ti would be better given both are nearly as bad with heat transfer. Ti seems to transfer heat better than SS at higher temperatures but that is more in the realm of wood stoves. It is the UL factor of the Ti that wins out.

Dropped the Al version a few time on the road and drive way. Got a few nicks but came though fine. For EDC I don’t really mind Al as it is better for the LED on high and cosmetics plus tools are not really something that I associate. Going to give a few Al ones for gifts this year and maybe if I got 40 bucks burning a hole in my pocket might consider a Ti version as this would be preferable to the SS. My reasons would be that black is hard to find if dropped in the woods and SS is heavier. True this is relative given the small size but still this is one of the few EDC that is so UL I can’t even feel it. As for my other 1XAAA lights I like the E01 for its time tested durability and like the beam and clicky of the S2. The S2 switch failed as it had issue from the get go and Leatherman sent me a new light in under a week without any fuss. :twothumbs Just needed to fill out a paper and send it in. The beam has more flood than the iTP which most of the times is preferred. The newer S2 seems brighter than the old and the beam is still flawless. I like the two modes of the S2 as the 8ish lumen general mode that comes on first works well for most things and like the iTP these modes are well separated.

As for the iTP the beam is still good and also found the greater throw useful at times. Tint is not all that bad too. The modes are more separated than my friend's LOD and guessing more so than the LD01. The low rocks too. The build on the Fenix made S2 and LODs that I have seen are a little better but this again is relative given the price etc. I do sometimes get a little flicker until the mode is locked in but being a twisty there is always some play between modes unlike a clicky. Anyways the light never failed to get in any mode I wanted and the flicker is often result of weak one handed mode changes. Running it off a 900 mAh Energizer as I have a bunch of them from replacement of my batteries to LSD. For EDC it gets recharged once a week and gotta get my money out of them. I think Fenix should update the LD01 with a lower low and new LED to compete with the iTP. At first I didn’t care for the Med-Low-High modes but find I use the 20ish lumen medium the most so can’t ***** about it. People talk about being night blinded by 20 lumens but come on.  It is not like the light is pointing directly in their eyes and what does it take for the eyes to adjust?

Not too worried if I miss the limited run if that is the case. Seems there are more limited runs with flashlights than knives. But could toss one in when purchasing the gift lights just the same. What I really want to spend money on is a Fenix headlamp, maybe that silly angle light and most of all a XP-G (if Gene gets around to it) M60LL for the G2Z.


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## NWdude83 (Nov 13, 2009)

Just ordered my single mode.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Nov 15, 2009)

NWdude83 said:


> Just ordered my single mode.



You'll love it. Small and bright!


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## dbhn (Nov 21, 2009)

Picked up the black ITP single stage and immediately tried it on my Streamlight Microstream's body. Works like a charm. The threading comes up a bit short and it won't be water tight anymore as it can't use the o-ring. But it is THE smallest and brightest forward clicky out there. Using the ITP head makes the Micro about 1/2" shorter and about twice as bright.


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## shark_za (Nov 22, 2009)

I took a few torches on a camping trip recently. 
Apart from my old trusty Petzl headlamp the iTP A3 got the most use. 

I strung it onto an old neck lanyard and carried that around my neck all weekend.

The SSC P7 Lumens Factory turbo head got all the oooooh-aaaaah's but the one light I really used was the multimode iTP.


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## Harry999 (Nov 23, 2009)

dbhn said:


> Picked up the black ITP single stage and immediately tried it on my Streamlight Microstream's body. Works like a charm. The threading comes up a bit short and it won't be water tight anymore as it can't use the o-ring. But it is THE smallest and brightest forward clicky out there. Using the ITP head makes the Micro about 1/2" shorter and about twice as bright.



Inspired by your post I took my Microstream apart and stuck on the ITP SS A3 Eos Upgraded head. It works very well. The mode changes each time I click it. To try to provide some weather protection I put two extra O-rings around the thread and then put some silicon oil on the remainder of the metal threads. This should provide a minimal protection against rain and sweat etc. 

I took my other ITP SS A3 Eos Upgraded head and put it on the Streamlight Stylus PRO penlight (the 2xAAA version). Again it works. This is certainly a versatile light. 

I have the Ti ITP/Olight A3 Eos and that is the only one that is staying together at present! To be honest I am so impressed by this excellent little EDC light I can see myself ordering some more on payday at the end of the month.


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## rookiedaddy (Nov 26, 2009)

went to my local flashlight shop and was surprise to learn how small these A3 are... so... 





couldn't resist...


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## HarveyRich (Nov 26, 2009)

You have a local flashlight shop? That's what I call a real specialty store. Can't be too many of them.


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## TONY M (Nov 26, 2009)

One of mine which I had lent out recently to my mother was used by her in India when the bus she was traveling on broke down at night at a bad location. She was glad to have it with her on that occasion as surprisingly nobody else had a flashlight. What was even more surprising was that she returned it with the head unscrewed 1/2 turn and the eneloop was still at 90% capacity.



HarveyRich said:


> You have a local flashlight shop? That's what I call a real specialty store. Can't be too many of them.


+1

I wish I had 3 stainless models too! Should make excellent Xmas presents... assuming they are for others.


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## rookiedaddy (Nov 26, 2009)

HarveyRich said:


> You have a local flashlight shop? That's what I call a real specialty store. Can't be too many of them.


ya... but the problem is... imagine how hard it is to control the impulse buy when you walk into a shop and immediately presented with selections of different Nitecore, Fenix, Olight, Tiablo, Zebralight, iTP, EagleTac and other chinese flashlights?   I feel like kids walking into Toy'R Us. :mecry:
the worst part is (for us flashaholics, that would be the best part), you get to test (*cough*play*cough*) every single flashlight before purchase... testing and comparing the brightness, throw, beam profile, tint choices (sometimes same model) and UI. Imagine doing those excellent selfbuilt's reviews yourself... Fenix TK40 vs Fenix TK30 vs Tiablo ACE-G vs Olight M30 vs etc. 



TONY M said:


> I wish I had 3 stainless models too! Should make excellent Xmas presents... assuming they are for others.


haha... mom and wife, and I'm keeping one 

FWIW, if anyone happen to get the iTP A1 EOS and/or SC1 Eluma (both single CR123A cell size), try to bend the clip outward a little before using (as it touches the tail cap) to avoid leaving a scratch mark on it.


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## DArklite (Nov 27, 2009)

Just ordered the stainless EOS from Shiningbeam :thumbsup:


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## Vee3 (Nov 30, 2009)

It's been mentioned that the O-ring is exposed when in the off position, and the supplied split-ring is flimsy. I was able to remedy both.

This is what mine looked like when off. Note exposed O-ring...







And in the on position...






I was able to remove ~.025" from the end of the body to reduce the gap and cover the O-ring. Here it is in the off position now...






In the on position, it only has a .005 gap when tight (looks larger here, but that's due to the chamfers where the head/body meet).






I was able to find a larger split-ring, and polished the ends so that it wouldn't damage the finish (original shown for referance)...






Anyway, this and similar lights like the Maratac, etc were probably designed with a gap to account for tolerance stack-up of the components in the head, so all lights would be able to turn on even in the minimum-tolerance condition.

It's easy to improve upon with a few minutes of careful sanding/polishing, and should help keep the head from moving by itself (better O-ring compression) and prevent pocket lint from gunking up the works.


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## DArklite (Dec 3, 2009)

I received my SS A3 EOS from Shiningbeam today - thanks Bryan :wave:

I must have gotten lucky - no discernible flicker at all with the low and medium settings :thumbsup: 
Flawless polished finish and smooth thread action too, but I'll clean and re-lube.

Going head-to-head with my LOD Rebel 80 with both running fresh Duracell ProCell alkalines, the A3 EOS's beam is white in comparison and made the LOD's beam look somewhat pinkish in the corona. Even on its own, the EOS looks.... white. No green, yellow, or anything else. Kinda reminds me of a few SSC P4 lights I own except for its better-defined hotspot.
The high was higher and the low was lower than the LOD and with a brighter spill, too; but to the LOD's credit it had more of a diffused and larger hotspot.
The A3 beat the LOD in throw which came as no surprise. Of course, I'm keeping both. 
Great deal for the price on the A3 IMO.


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## Liteskr42 (Dec 3, 2009)

Hey Vee3, where did ya find that larger split ring? can ya measure it and tell us the diameter?


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## Braddah_Bill (Dec 3, 2009)

Dude where do you live? I'm moving in right next door.

I had 2 - SS A3 EOS. I liked them so much I gave them both away :tinfoil: and just ordered another 1 for myself.





rookiedaddy said:


> ya... but the problem is... imagine how hard it is to control the impulse buy when you walk into a shop and immediately presented with selections of different Nitecore, Fenix, Olight, Tiablo, Zebralight, iTP, EagleTac and other chinese flashlights?   I feel like kids walking into Toy'R Us. :mecry:
> the worst part is (for us flashaholics, that would be the best part), you get to test (*cough*play*cough*) every single flashlight before purchase... testing and comparing the brightness, throw, beam profile, tint choices (sometimes same model) and UI. Imagine doing those excellent selfbuilt's reviews yourself... Fenix TK40 vs Fenix TK30 vs Tiablo ACE-G vs Olight M30 vs etc.
> 
> 
> ...


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## TITAN1833 (Dec 3, 2009)

Liteskr42 said:


> Hey Vee3, where did ya find that larger split ring? can ya measure it and tell us the diameter?




You could just get rid of the lug altogether great for tail standing 











or add a neo magnet and place on metal surface,hands free 







I must get a SS one soon :twothumbs


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## dealgrabber2002 (Dec 5, 2009)

I think I am going to dremel my EOS A3 to make it tailstand too. I think it looks better... but then, how the heck am I going to attach it to the keychain? :thinking:


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## TITAN1833 (Dec 5, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I think I am going to dremel my EOS A3 to make it tailstand too. I think it looks better... but then, how the heck am I going to attach it to the keychain? :thinking:


see the hole near the tail cap! GOOD that's it  there's a hole in the clip there :devil:


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## Jett (Dec 5, 2009)

Hey Vee3.... What size split ring is that? The attachment hole is very small on the iTP AAA. I'm looking to replace the current flimsy ring with a larger sized ring & a berkley micro clip. I'll need to order the split ring and was wondering what size split ring would fit? It looks like a Fenix/Arc AAA may be a bit too big to fit the hole size. I'm interested in hearing thougths from other forum members on this topic. 

Kind Regards,


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## compasillo (Dec 5, 2009)

Jett said:


> I'll need to order the split ring and was wondering what size split ring would fit? It looks like a Fenix/Arc AAA may be a bit too big to fit the hole size. I'm interested in hearing thougths from other forum members on this topic.
> 
> Kind Regards,



The fenix L0D/LD01 split ring fits perfectly and surely admits even a bigger one (the hole is 1 mm diameter).


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## Jett (Dec 5, 2009)

Thanks for the info C... I approciate your help on the sizing.

Kind Regards,


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## Art (Dec 5, 2009)

I have a A3 Ti arriving this week 


:nana:


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## think2x (Dec 13, 2009)

DArklite said:


> Just ordered the stainless EOS from Shiningbeam :thumbsup:


I've had my SS for a couple of months and couldn't be happier but saw the titanium version and have been trying to resist........but then I saw this http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-184/**NEW**-ITP-A3-EOS/Detail only for this weekend. Less than I paid for my SS after discount and shipping.


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## ps56k (Mar 10, 2010)

I really like my mine - 3 mode - will probably get another for my son.

BTW - Does it matter what kind of battery is used with respect to initial volts vs light output ? 

I've noticed the Alka are about 1.5+ and the Enegizer Liths are 1.7 and the NiMh are 1.43...

So - does the EOS boost to something just over what a Lith might supply to make the battery playing field level ?


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