# Milky L1 Information Thread Part 2



## milkyspit (Sep 27, 2007)

*[size=+1]This is Part 2 of the Milky L1 Information Thread. Part 1 is over here.[/size]*



[size=+1]*Introduction*[/size]









MARNAV1 said:


> What's a Milky L1?


 
I've loved the old-style SureFire L1 for a long while now... love the overall design, the ergonomics, the compactness, the elegance of this package... not so crazy about the floodsy, not-so-bright purple-tinted beam though. 

Solution: the *Milky L1*! 

The Milky L1 started as my own attempt to improve on the original L1... then after literally YEARS of studying, and poking around, and tinkering... and tinkering... finally a few of the quirks to this platform started to sink into my overly dense cranium, and I started to get the hang of turning the little guy into IMHO a truly compelling light.

At first this was almost like a secret build I did... had only made a handful, and those went to various folks... Kevin at Battery Station... Steve at The Product Wizard... MSaxatilus... a few others (plus me of course)... in many ways this has long been my premier build in that there's a certain level of performance I've tried hard to maintain, to the extent that sometimes I wouldn't even build any because the emitters on hand weren't good enough! (All get hand-picked as outperformers in order to make it into an ML1.)

But what *IS *a Milky L1? Don't think I've ever actually posted on that! Oops. 

This thread will hopefully shed some light on what this mod is all about, along with some photos, beamshots, runtime charts, and commentary offered by others too numerous to mention... but thank you to everyone for the info! 

It's an upgraded (but brand new in box) old-style L1 with vastly improved performance... 


*[size=+2]Collected Milky L1 Info, With Updates (7/4/2007)[/size]*

In this post I gather some tidbits from previous posts and update them to correct mistakes, add missing emitter choices, etc. Thought it might help to have it all in one place.


[size=+1]*The Milky L1 Colorometer! (including Seoul and Cree) *[/size]

_(Italics mean I don't have that emitter on hand at the time of this writing... the info remains here for reference.)_

Cree P4-WH (warmest: beige-white) - roughly 84 lumens
LuxIII UWOJ ("French vanilla" white) - roughly 50-60 lumens
LuxIII TWOH - roughly 45-60 lumens
Lux1W SWOH (rich white, hotwire friendly) - roughly 50-60 lumens
Seoul P4-USVOI - roughly 91-100 lumens
Seoul P4-USWOH - roughly 91-100 lumens
LuxIII UXOJ - roughly 50-60 lumens
Cree P3-WC (close to the Lumileds XO tint) - roughly 77 lumens
LuxIII UWAJ (pure white) - roughly 50-60 lumens
_Seoul P4-U-6500K - roughly 91-100 lumens_
LuxIII UYOJ - roughly 50-60 lumens
LuxIII TYAH (coolest: frosty white) - roughly 45-60 lumens


*[size=+1]Milky L1 Selection Guide (second draft)[/size]*

I can customize an L1 to your needs in a number of ways, but it really boils down to this...

1. Want longest possible throw from the L1 platform? Start with the new-style L1 with an IMS20 smooth reflector and flat ultra-clear lens installed.

1a. Want long throw with a ram-of-light effect? Start with the new-style L1 with the TIR optic left in place.

2. Want good throw in a smaller, more elegant version of the L1? Start with the old-style L1.

3. Tell me what sort of beam would be most useful to you: (a) short range mostly flood beam; (b) well-balanced all-purpose beam, useful for both close-range and moderately long distance use; (c) all-purpose beam with a little more intensity in the hotspot for a little extra throw. If you chose 'a', you want the ML1 Floodmaster Edition, featuring heavy stipple reflector. If you chose 'b', you want the ML1 Standard. If you chose 'c', you want the ML1 Smoothie. These choices don't apply if you're keeping the new-style TIR optic.

4. Do you have need for an unusually dim low beam? (Astronomer, photo darkroom, unusually good night vision, covert operations, etc.) If so, please request the ultralow tailcap mod.

5. If we aimed for a pure white tint but missed, would you rather miss with a beam that's a little warm (creamy) or a little cool (frosty)?

6. Is getting your tint preference so important that you're willing to sacrifice 15% of your runtime to get what you want?

7. Is a pure white tint so important that you're willing to lose 35% of the light's brightness to achieve it?

8. Is having a beam free of even minor artifacts so important that you're willing to sacrifice 15% of the beam's range to achieve it?[/QUOTE]


*[size=+1]Keeping The New-Style TIR Optic[/size]*

Some people have asked about the difference between the L1/KL1 with TIR optic, stock vs. SEOULmated. Here's a quick drawing that shows both the difference and my lack of skills in the visual arts!







[size=+1]*Runtime Curve*[/size]

Should be about the same as this, just brighter...




[/QUOTE]


*[size=+2]How To Contact Milkyspit![/size]*

In general, a PM on CPF is a good way to reach me, though there are occasions when this won't work... perhaps PM Inbox is full, perhaps CPF is having a hiccup...

If you can't get a PM sent on CPF, you might want to send one to me on CPF Marketplace. I monitor both.

Or you could send me an email... I suggest you put the word 'CPF' somewhere in the subject line to make it easier for me to separate your email from all the spam...






Regarding phone calls: I don't provide my phone number publicly but if you're unable to reach me by the above means, you might want to get my phone number from a fellow CPFer, there are several who know how to reach me. Or have them call me, give them a way I can get back to you (phone number and/or email address), and I'll get in touch as soon as I can. Sometimes a call is the best approach, though in many cases I would encourage you to try PM and/or email first.

If all else fails, post in this thread that you're trying to reach me. No need for details posted here, but at least I'll know I need to reach out to you!

Note: I do use Skype, which is potentially a useful way of doing a text chat... and I can call from Skype on my computer to a phone number pretty much anywhere in the world, so providing me with YOUR phone number would enable me to call YOU. Again, the above means of contact are probably preferable, but if it comes to it, this might be yet another way!

Hope this helps a bit.


*[size=+2]Historical Info[/size]*

Here are some quotes I grabbed quickly from Knight Lights' *"Interested In Mods?"* thread...

In no particular order...



Knight Lights said:


> *Milky L1. *What the L1 should have been! A two stage L1 built with an improved emitter, a reflector, and higher output. High in the 60 lumen range.


 


Knight Lights said:


> *Milky L1 (a.k.a. ML1)*
> 
> _Front profile view._
> 
> ...


 


Knight Lights said:


> Price List:
> Milky L1 Complete Light $175-Includes Surefire old style packaging, Surefire cell, paracord lanyard, and all the appropriate Surefire paperwork.
> 
> Milky L1, modify your light $85 (includes premium emitter, tint of your preference if available.)
> ...


 
_(Actually, a couple people have sold theirs to raise funds, but nobody has yet returned one or sold because they were disappointed, as far as I am aware!)
_


jdriller said:



> Got the Milky L1 on Friday. Haven't put it down since. It really doesn't work as well as they say - in the noon sun  :lolsign:. This really is a keeper. I got the UWOJ version. It is a little on the brown side at the low level, as expected. But on high, this thing is nice and bright. Hard to believe there is only one cell in it.
> 
> Milky does nice work. No dust or smudges. Clean and spotless. This is what I expect, and this is what I got. I do not believe anyone would be upset with this light. Form and function are top notch, but it is a little pricey.
> 
> It is worth it. Nice job, Milky.





flashlight said:


> I got my modded Milky L1 head today & it's a scorcher! Works great both on the L1 as well as on my Maxlite on direct drive with a Li-On 14500 cell (it does get a bit hot as expected so I might get a McR18 later to drop in in place of the plastic IMS17 reflector).


 
_(The McR18 reflector is now standard.)_



slaps said:


> Received my first perfect light. My Milky L1. It is compact, bright, and has two perfectly chosen drive levels. Did I mention that its build quality is superb? This is truly the way SF should make the L1. If you have the money buy one now. It is worth every penny to a true flashaholic. Great workmanship, outstanding customer service, and fast shipping. Thank you Milky!!!


 
_(Aw shucks. [rosy red cheeks])_







NotRegulated said:


> In an unscientific evaluation this is what my eyes tell me...the ML1 on the highest level (with a Lux III UXOJ emitter) is brighter than my Amilite Neo, and brighter than my Fenix P1 which are both Lux III's as well. The ML1 is marginally brighter than the Surefire KL3 head and too close to call with the Surefire KL1 head.
> 
> In my first few hours of using the ML1, it appears more handy than my E2e and E2e with KL1, because it is the same size or slightly smaller with a low setting and the same level of brightness on high as he competition. My E2e with KL1 or L4 with the McE2s two-stage tailcap is considerably longer in length. The KL1 on the E1e with the McE2s is quite a bit smaller but not as easily activated. The McE2s on the E2e and E1e does allow the light to tail stand while the ML1 does not.
> The ML1 is like having a smaller E2e/KL1 in a smaller package with the addition of a low mode. Or it is like having a two-stage E2e if you ignore the incandescent vs LED benefit arguement, or a smaller A2. My initial thoughts are that the ML1 is more handy for day to day tasks than an E2e, of which I have had lots of experience with.
> I can't compare it to a recent production L1 but would love to see that comparison.


 


EuroBeetle said:


> Got my Milky L1 today and it IS what an L1 should have been!


 


cd-card-biz said:


> I did some visual, unscientific tests with my Milky ML1 tonight. Out of all my lights, the Milky ML1 (UX0J) is closest in brightness, beam and tint to my McLux Ti-PD (UX0J). I was amazed at how close they appear! While the Ti-PD is a slightly warmer tint the ML1 is a precise stark white. The beams on low and high are so close in brightness, I would be hard-pressed to find the difference. To my eyes, the ML1 has the same size hotspot, but with considerably more spill.
> 
> The Ti-PD is a little easier to operate one handed. To operate the ML1 one-handed, I have to point the head downward at my wrist. There may be a better way that I haven't found yet.
> 
> ...


 


cd-card-biz said:


> *Beamshot Comparison: McLux PD & Milky "ML1"*
> 
> I posted some time ago that to my eye, the Milky ML1 is a close comparison to my McLux PD. My purpose in doing so was not to say one is better than the other or come to any conclusion - to me, they both just look darn close!
> 
> ...


 


Lurveleven said:


> My Milky L1 SV1H arrived on Monday. I got the shipping notice Thursday 10 pm, light arrived Monday morning 11 am, that is fast international shipping!! And there were not many business days in there.
> 
> I haven't had the opportunity to properly test the light outside yet, but the impressions so far is that for indoor use it is much much nicer than the stock L1 since you do not need to use a diffuser on it and it has great spill. For indoor use I also prefer using it instead of my McLuxIII-PD, the switch is nicer to use and the beam profile from the McR18 is in IMO better for indoor use than the McR20 (but the McR16 is probably the best). When it comes to brightness, it looks equal in brightness to my PD with UX1K when doing a ceiling bounce test. The low mode is quite a bit lower than on the PD, so for reading it is better for night adapted eyes, but for other uses it may not be so useful. I doubt the low is useful for outdoor use, but I haven't tested that yet. I may make a mini review when I have had more time to test it.
> 
> ...


 


milkyspit said:


> Next... Leef kindly did some runtime testing with his Milky L1, and the results were, uh, pretty much what was expected. At least I know I haven't been guilty of false advertising!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## BSBG (Sep 27, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*

Let me be the first to post in the second thread...

Patiently waiting for my old style M1 Smoothie


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## Supernam (Sep 27, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*

Hey Scott,

What are the emitters driven at on high/low?


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## scottaw (Sep 27, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*

Well, i couldn't resist the temptation anymore, you guys make these lights just seem TOO good, so milky...you have a PM waiting whenever you get around to it.


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## Nebula (Sep 27, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*



scottaw said:


> Well, i couldn't resist the temptation anymore, you guys make these lights just seem TOO good, so milky...you have a PM waiting whenever you get around to it.


 

Good call, Scottaw. The ML1 is a terrific little light. KK


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## milkyspit (Sep 28, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*



Supernam said:


> Hey Scott,
> 
> What are the emitters driven at on high/low?




Nam, the exact output depends on the pairing of emitter with circuitry... but in general, I'd say high beam drives the emitter at somewhere in the 350-450mA range, while low beam drives around 10-20mA. The low beam will taper off ever-so-gradually as the light runs, so in practice runtime will end up at 100+ hours.


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## Cat.HK (Oct 1, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*

Hi Scott,

Could you tell me the roughly lumens for 350-450mA and 10-20mA ?
Also, is there any different modding from a Gen 5 or Gen 6 L1 ? :thinking:


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## milkyspit (Oct 2, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*



Cat.HK said:


> Hi Scott,
> 
> Could you tell me the roughly lumens for 350-450mA and 10-20mA ?
> Also, is there any different modding from a Gen 5 or Gen 6 L1 ? :thinking:




Cat, 350mA-450mA will get you something in the 91-120 lumens vicinity... I generally specify the ML1 builds as 100 lumens just to stay a little more on the conservative side of things. As for 10-20mA, that's a little harder to quantify... but my guess would be you're looking at something in the 5-10 lumens range.

The gen5 and gen6 heads aren't much different in appearance... actually, the gen6 head is a little LONGER than the gen5 head... inside, though, they're significantly different. The gen5 has a pocket for the emitter that fits a Luxeon or Seoul SSCP4 nicely... the gen6 has an emitter board designed for mounting a Cree. Either emitter can be installed in either light, but going with the 'other' emitter in a head not made for it entails a more involved modification.


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## Cat.HK (Oct 2, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*

Thx for your information, Scott. What is your suggestion for a longer runtime on both high and low beam with SF primary (100 lumens on Hi and 10 lumens on Low are enough for me)


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## DDS (Oct 2, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*

Hi Scott: You have two PM's from me attempting to contact you back about an order for a Floodmaster that we discussed.
Thanks, Dave


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## chakrawal (Oct 3, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*

Milkyspit:
I tried to PM you but your PM is full so I sent you an E-mail. Please check your E-mail.
Thanks,
Chakrawal


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## milkyspit (Oct 3, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*

Hi chakrawal and others, yes, my CPF PM Inbox has been teering on the verge of being full for a few days now... rather than spending hours right away to empty it, I'm taking the opportunity to improve the way I handle such communications from my end of things. It's the latest round of process improvements here in the Milky Labs to allow for more efficient communications along with more time and effort spent where it counts, taking on peoples' orders and getting the builds done. As always, it's a work in progress! But looking at the state of things at the beginning of this year, it's clear that things have come a long way, with the intent to continue the improvement! :sweat:

I'm always trying to make things better.

Anyway, sorry to those who have had their PM bounced recently. I would encourage you to contact me by any of these alternate means...

*[size=+2]How To Contact Milkyspit![/size]*

In general, a PM on CPF is a good way to reach me, though there are occasions when this won't work... perhaps PM Inbox is full, perhaps CPF is having a hiccup...

If you can't get a PM sent on CPF, you might want to send one to me on CPF Marketplace. I monitor both.

Or you could send me an email... I suggest you put the word 'CPF' somewhere in the subject line to make it easier for me to separate your email from all the spam...






Regarding phone calls: I don't provide my phone number publicly but if you're unable to reach me by the above means, you might want to get my phone number from a fellow CPFer, there are several who know how to reach me. Or have them call me, give them a way I can get back to you (phone number and/or email address), and I'll get in touch as soon as I can. Sometimes a call is the best approach, though in many cases I would encourage you to try PM and/or email first.

If all else fails, post in this thread that you're trying to reach me. No need for details posted here, but at least I'll know I need to reach out to you!

Note: I do use Skype, which is potentially a useful way of doing a text chat... and I can call from Skype on my computer to a phone number pretty much anywhere in the world, so providing me with YOUR phone number would enable me to call YOU. Again, the above means of contact are probably preferable, but if it comes to it, this might be yet another way!

Hope this helps a bit.


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## DDS (Oct 3, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*

Email sent, per your suggestion.

Thanks,
Dave


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## chakrawal (Oct 3, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*

Both PM and E-mail sent.
Thanks,
Chakrawal


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## Cat.HK (Oct 3, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*

Scott, the PM box is not functional again :shrug:, so I send a e-mail to you. :naughty:


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## scottaw (Oct 3, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*

I think my PM got through, but....it's there i sent it last thursday and im ready to start an ML-1 build, Thanks man.


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## milkyspit (Oct 4, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*

Thanks folks, got 'em all. :thumbsup:


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## Cat.HK (Oct 5, 2007)

*Re: Milky L1 Information Thread part 2*



milkyspit said:


> Thanks folks, got 'em all. :thumbsup:


Scott, I'm still waiting for your comment.


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## chakrawal (Oct 7, 2007)

Milkyspit:
I'm still waiting for your reply.


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## DDS (Oct 10, 2007)

Still also waiting for a reply!


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## skalomax (Oct 10, 2007)

Be patient, He's probably building me something. :naughty:


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## scottaw (Oct 10, 2007)

How true skalo, you really do seem to be his best customer. 

And i always thought the first light i bought from you would have been a Milkymod...oh well, lemme know if you wanna lose any of those, you know ML-1 or novatac style.


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## skalomax (Oct 10, 2007)

scottaw said:


> How true skalo, you really do seem to be his best customer.
> 
> And i always thought the first light i bought from you would have been a Milkymod...oh well, lemme know if you wanna lose any of those, you know ML-1 or novatac style.


 
About every light I've bought from him, I liked or loved.

Will do, you get first dibs.


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## Groundhog66 (Oct 11, 2007)

scottaw said:


> How true skalo, you really do seem to be his best customer.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## chakrawal (Oct 13, 2007)

Milkyspit:
Just resent you a PM and an E-mail as requested. Please check your PM and E-mail.
Thanks,
Chakrawal


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## Cat.HK (Oct 14, 2007)

Hi Scott,

May I know how to contact you ? Your pm box keeping full and I had send you an e-mail to quarryrun.com at 4th Oct but no reply from you till now.  Please let me know if you have no time to accept any new order. :shakehead

Cat


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## Groundhog66 (Oct 14, 2007)

I LOVES my Milky L1's


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## Cat.HK (Oct 14, 2007)

Groundhog66 said:


> I LOVES my Milky L1's


Hi Groundhog, what is the different between two light ?


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## Dinan (Oct 15, 2007)

Just a curious inquiry here... I currently have an L1 cree and I was wondering what could be done to it to boost the output and maybe make it fully RCR compatible? I quite like the stock optic atm so I guess I'm just asking what LED could be swapped in, thanks!


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## milkyspit (Oct 15, 2007)

Cat.HK said:


> Hi Scott,
> 
> May I know how to contact you ? Your pm box keeping full and I had send you an e-mail to quarryrun.com at 4th Oct but no reply from you till now.  Please let me know if you have no time to accept any new order. :shakehead
> 
> Cat




Hi Cat, it's not lack of time or interest, it's mainly the difficulty of locating those flat-sided L1 hosts... the sources have really dried up lately. I would like nothing better than to supply everyone interested with the build as I believe it's a good one, but at the same time, I don't want to allow the orders to get too far ahead of the incoming supply!

I'll be in touch with you soon, I did see your email, thanks for hanging in there. :bow:

Anyone willing to have a Milky L1 built into the L1 'magnum' body (see photo below), I can handle that no problem, and there does still seem to be a pretty good supply of these around... plus the added advantage of a little additional throw out of the hotspot for both the Smoothie AND the Floodmaster versions.







Finally, a shameless plug: got an L1 flat-sided host gathering dust in the closet (or whatever)? Get in touch, I'd be interested in acquiring it, either as a purchase or a credit toward having something built. Much appreciated! :sweat:


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## milkyspit (Oct 15, 2007)

Groundhog66 said:


> I LOVES my Milky L1's



GH, your photography is getting better and better! Truly gorgeous picture. :bow: :bow:

BTW, your package arrived in today's mail.



Cat.HK said:


> Hi Groundhog, what is the different between two light ?



Both are ML-1 flat-sided. On the left is the Standard reflector (McR18j for a balanced beam), on the right is a Floodmaster reflector for ultra-smooth near-range illumination.



Dinan said:


> Just a curious inquiry here... I currently have an L1 cree and I was wondering what could be done to it to boost the output and maybe make it fully RCR compatible? I quite like the stock optic atm so I guess I'm just asking what LED could be swapped in, thanks!



I would go about it the opposite: leave the LED in place (unless the tint is really nasty or there's some other problem with it), remove the circuit capsule from the body and replace the circuitry. Upgrading to a Milky L1x (for eXtreme) would give you max output in the vicinity of 160 lumens with about an hour of high beam runtime and RCR123 compatibility. To finish the upgrade, we might also enlarge the battery chamber so the various brands of rechargeable fit... in stock form some will fit, some won't. Anyway, send me a PM here or at CPF Marketplace, or email me if you want to pursue this...


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## chakrawal (Oct 15, 2007)

Hi Scott,
Did you get my E-mail? I already resent it as requested.
Thanks,
Chakrawal


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## litew8 (Oct 15, 2007)

Scott,
What else can you do with the cree L1? Maybe change the run time, to something like the old L1's, but in smaller package. Then i could put one of my old style ML1 heads on it. This is starting to sound really good, I might be sending you another light.:thumbsup: Al


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## lightsandknives (Oct 20, 2007)

Hey Scott, I tried to send you a PM but your mailbox is full.

I received a refund from the USPS for my money order I sent you for the ML1 Floodmaster. Looks like it never made it to you or was lost somewhere. Anyway, if it ever shows up (although after two months, I would think it unlikely), just tear it up. If it does however, please let me know.

Thanks, and I may try again later.


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## russtang (Oct 22, 2007)

I thought this would be a good spot to show the options with the different L1 lights. The Head on the far right has been modded by Milky.

L-R
Old Style L1......New Cree L1.......Old Style Body w/cree Head.....New Cree Body w/Old Style Head


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## milkyspit (Oct 27, 2007)

russtang said:


> I thought this would be a good spot to show the options with the different L1 lights. The Head on the far right has been modded by Milky.
> 
> L-R
> Old Style L1......New Cree L1.......Old Style Body w/cree Head.....New Cree Body w/Old Style Head




Thanks Russ, that's a great photo. The old-style L1 (flat sides) is actually even smaller than it would appear... note its tailcap isn't screwed down as much as the L1 Cree's is. By my measurements the old-style L1 is about 1/8 inch longer than the new L1 Cree. Both are markedly smaller than the L1 TIR.


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## DDS (Oct 27, 2007)

Scott: Do you only reply to your emails or PM's when you are ready to start a project with the person inquiring? I've sent Pm's and emails to you over a month ago??
Thanks, Dave


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## milkyspit (Oct 27, 2007)

DDS, I have no easy answer for this. Since modding is my work, my workday effectively never ends... and in there somehow I try to fit time for being a good dad, or at least attempting as much... sleeping (not very good at this admittedly)... marriage... paying bills, running errands... etc. God forbid I get sick for a few days, or my parents drop by, which often means the day is shot... with the time left I reply to email and PMs, take photos of builds in progress for later posting, post new threads and photos, pack and ship completed work, order supplies, and of course, do the builds themselves.

None of which really directly answers your question, I'm sorry about that, maybe wanted to outline the above if for no better reason than making sure for myself that I'm keeping things straight!  The more specific answer to your question: there was a time when I spent easily 2/3 of every day replying to PM and email... after several months of this I had accumulated a backlog of perhaps 70+ builds, with a number of folks patiently waiting... and more importantly, came to the realization that try as I might, I would probably never get through all the inquiries anyway, despite wanting to. I just don't like not replying to folks but sometimes it happens in spite of the best attempts to the contrary. :sigh:

Lately I've operated on the philosophy that it's better not to get too far ahead of myself as it helps no one. It's not that I wait until being able to take on a build, but rather that I limit the hours per day spent messaging and in-progress build correspondence will always take precedence, followed by folks who have placed an order, possibly already paid, possibly have their lights on the way... these are the most time-critical communications as I see it. With the time that's left I try to plow through all else.

I receive email notifications even for the PMs and do read pretty much everything soon after it arrives at my inbox... it's the reply part that might take time. Simple inquiries often get a quick response because, well, they're simple. Very long inquiries, or the sort of message asking a dozen questions and/or necessitating long answers to the questions, or inquiries that require research on my part to give an intelligent answer... these are the sorts of things likely to take longest to receive a reply. Sometimes a lack of parts on hand to complete a build coupled with being unsure I can actually get the parts will delay a reply, too, on the premise that I'd rather not get into a detailed discussion of a build I'm not sure can happen anytime soon... don't want to raise expectations only to dash them later if I can help it.

Several months back, many of the inquiries were of the form, "I paid for xxx on yyy, it's been zzz weeks, when will it be done?" Now most have changed to, "I asked about having xxx built yyy weeks ago, and am still interested but haven't heard from you yet." In an ideal world I'd rather have neither of these situations going on, but forced to choose I'd opt for the second over the first anyday! In the second example no money has changed hands, no lights have been sent, no promises on delivery dates have been made... I think it's a lot fairer to have a customer in that sort of wait state than it is to have one who's paid and sent their light into a seeming black hole.

Anyway, the above notwithstanding, I am sorry for the delay in getting back to you and am not offended in the least if you resend the inquiry, or give me a friendly reminder once in a while... I do hope this far too long post does at least offer a tiny window into the strange workings of one very milky brain, and why things happen the way they do.

Thank you for the reminder, too!


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## bondr006 (Oct 27, 2007)

You are a good man Scott. I have nothing but the utmost regard for you. I have had nothing but the most pleasant experience with you through all 3 mods you did for me. The work you did, and the expediency with which you got them done and sent back to me was certainly beyond my wildest expectations. When the opportunity comes, I will not hesitate to enlist your services again in the future. The phone conversations we have had have been some of the most pleasant I have had with anyone to be sure, and I look forward to talking to you again. I feel guilty taking your time, knowing how busy you are and how little personal time you have to yourself, but you have such a great personality and a nature that just makes people want to get to know you. I hope that we do get to meet one day....even if it means I take a drive to Jersey for the next get together. Hopefully you'll get to come down here for the holidays, and both I and Flying Turtle will get to meet you. I guess what I'm trying to say, is that having Milky work on your light is definitely worth the wait. Having Scott for a friend is priceless.

*[SIZE=+1]Milky L1 gen3 Smoothie[/SIZE]*

Seoul SSCP4 USWOH emitter, hand-tested for optimal L1 compatibility
Smooth 20mm reflector
Ultra-clear flat lens (if needed)
Tailcap resistance recalibrated as appropriate

*Milky L1 TIR

* CREE Q4 WC emitter, hand-tested for optimal L1 compatibility
Stock circuit replaced with a Madmax Plus Circuit
Stock TIR Optic - Focusable
Tailcap resistance recalibrated to 3 to 5 lumen low
Rechargeable friendly

*[SIZE=+1]Milky L2[/SIZE]*

Seoul SSCP4 USWOH emitter, hand-tested for optimal L2 compatibility
Circuit capsule rebuilt using SOB1000 regulator
Tailcap resistance recalibrated for good high/low beam ratio

Here are a few shots of the lights Scott worked on for me...


----------



## scottaw (Oct 28, 2007)

The more i hear about these lights, the excellent customer service and all around quality, the more i know waiting will be worth it. Take a few days off and relax for once Milky, it sure seems like we don't give you that chance....ever.


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## Delghi (Oct 28, 2007)

Well, thanks for explaining why I did not received any reply in these months I was wondering about it 
I had no idea of how this would work but I can completley understand now take your time and :goodjob:

I just hope that someday will be my turn in the waiting list

Wish the best
David


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## wand_light (Oct 29, 2007)

Ditto bondr006 !

I have had the great pleasure of meeting Scott when he came down here (to a secret undisclosed location) to visit his in-laws. He invited me over to discuss a build even though he was on vacation and he spent way too much time talking with me. Scott is a genuinely warm, nice, humble, and giving person. We're lucky he's part of the CPF community.

Plus, of course, he is a craftsman and his work is fantastic. I am the proud owner of a Gotham (my EDC) and a X800.4. The latter produces massive output with variable levels (the former is no slouch either). I've some picts https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2213119#post2213119.

We just need to remember, in this fast-food massed produced world, that Scott is a one-man shop with 3 kids and a wife that need attention too!

Thanks for being there Scott!


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## DDS (Oct 30, 2007)

Thank you for the explanation Scott 

Dave


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## scottaw (Oct 31, 2007)

A few questions for Scott...or anyone else here may know... (these may have been answered earlier in the threads, but in all my reading i've never hit either...)

So anyways...

Is it possibly to switch reflectors myself, say unscrew the head and go from floodmaster to standard to smoothie?

And #2 How waterproof is an ML-1 with an OS tailcap? Do either if these mods affect water resistance?

Thanks!

-Scott


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## milkyspit (Oct 31, 2007)

scottaw said:


> A few questions for Scott...or anyone else here may know... (these may have been answered earlier in the threads, but in all my reading i've never hit either...)
> 
> So anyways...
> 
> ...




Yes, you could switch reflectors yourself... but the reflectors I use in the builds for the flat-sided lights are custom-cut, so you would need to appropriately-sized reflector to drop in.

If your ML1 is based in the L1 host with domed lens, no custom cutting of the reflector would be necessary... you'd want to be careful opening the head as there are several pieces inside, and could easily fall out, possibly damage the emitter dome... but beyond that, there's no reason you couldn't swap the reflector yourself.

Water resistance should be the same as the stock light at both head and tail ends, even when using the OS tailguard. I wouldn't recommend ANY L1, factory or otherwise, as a dive light... but barring that, they should keep the elements out just fine.


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## BSBG (Oct 31, 2007)

Scott:

I got your PM but could not reply as your box is full.

Thanks for the update, I'll let you know what I think when it gets here :thumbsup:.


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## Newf-llb (Nov 1, 2007)

Hey Scott:

Your PM box was full so I sent you a regular email about a week ago to place an order. I don't mind waiting - family comes first - but I just wanted to confirm you'd received my email and I was on the "wait list."

Thanks,

Richard


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## milkyspit (Nov 3, 2007)

Newf-llb said:


> Hey Scott:
> 
> Your PM box was full so I sent you a regular email about a week ago to place an order. I don't mind waiting - family comes first - but I just wanted to confirm you'd received my email and I was on the "wait list."
> 
> ...




Hi Richard, I'm fairly sure I got your email... but to be on the safe side, maybe you could send PM to me over at the Marketplace? Only if it's convenient, perhaps during an otherwise boring moment. That way I'll be sure to see your message in one place or the other!

Incidentally, just wondering out loud I guess... would there be any benefit in me getting together some sort of messaging website where folks could post messages and maybe track the progress of their builds? I could see that making a certain amount of sense by centralizing my messaging... it would NOT affect my posts over here, though... my intent would be to continue posting articles, photos, tips, whatever, as always, just to take the plunge as a means to workaround the 'Inbox full' problem that seems to be the case more often these days. :thinking:

Anyway, something I'm thinking about, not quite sure I understand all the pros and cons just yet.


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## scottaw (Nov 3, 2007)

I just got paypal shipping confirmation, my ML-1 is in the mail, and it's floodier twin is waiting here for it! Then i can take pics like groundhog...WOOHOO


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## BSBG (Nov 4, 2007)

Here is my _ML-1 Smoothie_ that just arrived, along with the one of a kind _Headless ML-1_ and a Milky-modded L4 head on a Leef body


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## skalomax (Dec 14, 2007)

Need a ML1!, sent a PM...


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## milkyspit (Dec 15, 2007)

*[size=+1]MERRY CHRISTMAS![/size]*

Well, never say never I guess! oo: Found one last batch of new-in-box old-style L1 hosts... the ones with the four flat sides and short, tapered head... so if you've wanted a Milky L1, now's the time! Posted a sales thread *over here*.


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## scottaw (Dec 15, 2007)

I gotta let these slide so someone else can behold their very own ML-1, but you just wait til i find a long clip black L1, and we're gonna make something special....:naughty:


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## milkyspit (Dec 20, 2007)

*[size=+1]Offered 12, building 20![/size]* :sweat:

Given the scarcity of the original four-flat-sided L1 hosts these days, especially new in box(!), I went WAY out on a limb and bought the entire supply I found available... this amounted to 45 hosts. I figured I would follow McGizmo's lead and try offering the ML1 builds from these in waves, with the first offering consisting of 12 lights. Was concerned about selling all 12 in a reasonable time... what happened instead was the sale of 20 ML1 from that wave! Anyway, once the build count climbed past 14 I figured I might as well just keep building, for as long as I had a supply of hosts and folks still asked. At this point, the supply is severely depleted... maybe 16 remain of the original 45! If you've wanted a ML1 build, this may be your best window of opportunity, though I would politely suggest it's going fast.

Sales thread is *over here*.

*[size=+1]New Emitter Choice: Luxeon K2-TFFC[/size]*

Today I received a shipment of 50x Luxeon K2-TFFC bin TWOF, one of the more interesting emitters to have come through the Milky Labs in quite some time. For those who have followed Luxeon and/or LED lighting for some time, you may recall the original release of the K2 emitter and the truly monstrous hype machine that Lumileds set in motion for the event... only to have a bunch of lackluster K2 land with a thud. They were literally a step backward in many ways, offering less efficiency, higher voltage requirements, fewer lumens per watt, etc., than both Lux1 and Lux3.

The K2-TFFC that arrived today are a whole different animal. Personally, I would have chosen a different name if for no other reason than to get as far away from the negative connotations of the 'K2' brand as possible! But name notwithstanding, these are good emitters... finally. Brightness seems roughly on par with Cree and SSC, maybe not brighter but certainly in the same ballpark... tint is quite good... thermal management seems to be excellent... and the big surprise: color rendition looks great! Might be the best color rendition of any white LED that I've tried so far.

Mounted the first of these new emitters in an ML1 build mated with a McR18j reflector, and the results are pretty neat! Those wanting a warmer beam will like these... they're a nice vanilla white that's very tasteful (no pun intended), finding just the right balance between a warm beam without being too warm, nor too yellow, nor the slightest hint of green. Color rendition seems to be richer than the SSCP4 USWOH emitters... the K2T tends to render the yellow, reds and browns more fully than the SSC, more akin to a good incandescent in this regard, while still remaining whiter overall than a typical incandescent would be. Brightness seems close to the SSC though not quite reaching it... if the SSC is 100 lumens, the K2T looks like 90-95 lumens overall output. Very impressive!

Given that the K2-TFFC is spec'd for operation up to 1.5A, they're WAY underdriven in the Milky L1, which holds out the promise of truly exceptional longevity. Factor into the equation the dual lugs on either side of the emitter, leading to a more secure physical connection to the underlying emitter board, and this one looks to be a tremendous performer in tough physical environments with rough, everyday use. Not that any of the ML1 have performed poorly in this regard! But the K2-TFFC looks really good.
:thumbsup:


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## Brozneo (Dec 20, 2007)

Have to hold out on getting an 4-sided ML-1!!!! Bank account is suffering!!!


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## Supernam (Dec 21, 2007)

milkyspit said:


> Yes, you could switch reflectors yourself... but the reflectors I use in the builds for the flat-sided lights are custom-cut, so you would need to appropriately-sized reflector to drop in.
> 
> If your ML1 is based in the L1 host with domed lens, no custom cutting of the reflector would be necessary... you'd want to be careful opening the head as there are several pieces inside, and could easily fall out, possibly damage the emitter dome... but beyond that, there's no reason you couldn't swap the reflector yourself.
> 
> Water resistance should be the same as the stock light at both head and tail ends, even when using the OS tailguard. I wouldn't recommend ANY L1, factory or otherwise, as a dive light... but barring that, they should keep the elements out just fine.



I'm glad I saw this because I was wondering the same thing. I wasn't sure if the bezel was loctite'd or not and didn't want to risk it. Glad to find out that it came off with a good twist. 

I swapped my heavy stippled "floodmaster" reflector for a 17mm smooth Khatod. It's a bit shorter, but the rubber seal kept it in place. Scott, can I use a standard McR-18 or can I do I need to get a shortened version from you?


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## mcmc (Dec 25, 2007)

Hey supernam, was it hard to swap it out? How tough was it to take off the bezel?

Scott warned me about shearing off the led dome as well, was it hard to put the new reflector in and put the bezel back on?

I asked for my ML-1 with all 3 reflector types so that I could decide which reflector I wanted in person =)


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## Supernam (Dec 25, 2007)

Just a strong twist, comes off by hand. Just like any light that has its reflector centered by the dome of the led, you gotta be careful not to put any sideways pressure while taking out the reflector or putting it back in. Once you get the bezel off, try dumping out the reflector instead of sticking your finger in there to dislodge it. When installing, drop it in, if it doesn't go in straight, dump it out and try again. The idea is to not use your finger to move the reflector while it's sitting on the emitter.


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## milkyspit (Dec 25, 2007)

Guys, just keep an eye on what's going on inside the head the whole time to keep things from going too far off line, and be patient... it may take quite a bit of fiddling to get it right sometimes, but you will eventually, and once it's seated with head fully tightened, the reflector won't be going anywhere... the gasket itself comes down a bit to hold everything in place yet without so much pressure that it kills the emitter. The key is getting things right in the first place... and slow and steady is the rule there.


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## gottawearshades (Dec 26, 2007)

PM sent, Scott, about my L1 cree.

Cheers.


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## scottaw (Jan 15, 2008)

One month after i say i gotta let these go b/c i already have one...i lose mine! ARGH... PM sent about getting a replacement.


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## Brozneo (Jan 16, 2008)

scottaw said:


> One month after i say i gotta let these go b/c i already have one...i lose mine! ARGH... PM sent about getting a replacement.


 
Mate! No good that you lost it, hopefully it will turn up soon for ya! :thumbsup:


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## mbely2 (Jan 16, 2008)

I am curious, does "standard" ML1 light (not ML1x) uses original L1 board or it has completely different electronics inside? 
Also what changes, if any are done with tailcap?

I would really appreciate if someone answers those questions or point me in right direction here in discussion forum.

Thanks,

Mark


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## skalomax (Jan 16, 2008)

mbely2 said:


> I am curious, does "standard" ML1 light (not ML1x) uses original L1 board or it has completely different electronics inside?
> Also what changes, if any are done with tailcap?
> 
> I would really appreciate if someone answers those questions or point me in right direction here in discussion forum.
> ...


 
Mark,
The ML1 uses the stock Surefire L1 circuit. I don't believe Milkyspit does any changes to the tailcap unless you want a "super low" or "Med-Hi" secondary brightness, instead of the low.

I hope this answers your question.


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## mbely2 (Jan 16, 2008)

Thanks, Skalomax!

BTW, I love my Milkymods too! 
So far I have two: standard and eXtreme ML1. They are fantastic little lights!

Mark


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## scottaw (Jan 25, 2008)

Ok, i've heard of a Milky Cree L1, 165Lm on high, *focusable* optic....when does this light get it's own thread, or are we just going to keep it going here? I want some details and/or a nice full review with beamshots!


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## bondr006 (Jan 25, 2008)

I have one....Nany, nany boo, boo.:nana: Seriously ttran97 also has one, and I posted the details of the mod in post #39. Here it is again...

*Milky L1 TIR

* CREE Q4 WC emitter, hand-tested for optimal L1 compatibility
Stock circuit replaced with a Madmax Plus Circuit
Stock TIR Optic - Focusable
Tailcap resistance recalibrated to 3 to 5 lumen low
Rechargeable friendly

It is the best L1 I've had thus far, and a great EDC. I never leave the house without it and my Novatac 120P. It's a little pocket rocket that puts out a lot of light from such a small package. It rivals the WolfEyes 190 lumen drop-in I have in my G2. It also has great throw. I highly recommend this light to any true Flashaholic. I will try to get a better review and some beam shots up soon.


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## gottawearshades (Jan 25, 2008)

I'd love to give a review, but my L1 Cree has been in Milky Labs since before Thanksgiving waiting to get this treatment.:mecry:




scottaw said:


> Ok, i've heard of a Milky Cree L1, 165Lm on high, *focusable* optic....when does this light get it's own thread, or are we just going to keep it going here? I want some details and/or a nice full review with beamshots!


----------



## ttran97 (Jan 25, 2008)

bondr006 said:


> I have one....Nany, nany boo, boo.:nana: Seriously ttran97 also has one, and I posted the details of the mod in post #39. Here it is again...
> 
> *Milky L1 TIR
> 
> ...



Yes, James here was the one that convinced me to send in my ML-1 Cree. It's quite a steal since I grabbed the L1 cree from the marketplace. So overall, I've got a VERY bright light that is compact and very useful! This thing can get up to 180 lumen or so if you use rechargeables! Milkyspit did a great job, as always!

Surefire ML1 Cree modded by Milkyspit...Approved! (can you tell i'm having fun with my new graphic??? haha!)


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## gottawearshades (Jan 29, 2008)

Scott, you've got mail!


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## mbely2 (Jan 30, 2008)

I wonder if there is a difference between A2, L2 and L1 tailcaps? Different resistors, perhaps? Or they are the same and interchangeable.... 

What will happen with secondary (low) output of my Milky L1 if I will use A2 tailcap on it?

Any input is highly appreciated.

Mark


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## milkyspit (Jan 30, 2008)

GWS, message replied... yesterday! 




mbely2 said:


> I wonder if there is a difference between A2, L2 and L1 tailcaps? Different resistors, perhaps? Or they are the same and interchangeable....
> 
> What will happen with with secondary (low) output if will use A2 tailcap in my Milky L1?
> 
> ...



No difference in the stock tailcaps for L1, L2, and A2... they're all the same, right down to the resistance incorporated into them for the low beam.

That said, I do recalibrate some of the tailcaps in the modified lights... but parts for the Milky L1 and Milky L2 should all be interchangeable anyway, so no harm in mix-and-match! :thumbsup:


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## Kato (Jan 30, 2008)

Scott,

PM sent.


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## mbely2 (Jan 31, 2008)

milkyspit said:


> No difference in the stock tailcaps for L1, L2, and A2... they're all the same, right down to the resistance incorporated into them for the low beam.
> 
> That said, I do recalibrate some of the tailcaps in the modified lights... but parts for the Milky L1 and Milky L2 should all be interchangeable anyway, so no harm in mix-and-match! :thumbsup:




Scott, thank you for the info! I just bought extra tailcap for my ML1s

I have two ML1 lights: one with regular circuit and another one with MadMax Plus. 
Both light are now my favorites and I use one of them for work every day. On low they both emmit about equal amont of light...

Just recently I found out that switching tailcaps between two of those lights changes output on low: on "standard" ML1 it becomes really dim or "ultra low" - perfect for use at night indoors, and "upgraded" ML1-x getting mid-high output on low - perfect for outdoor use. (ML1x's talcap has 30ohm resistor installed)

After this "discovery" I think that getting an extra tailcap is inexpensive way to add even greater versatility to ML1x.

Mark


----------



## skalomax (Jan 31, 2008)

Scott,
Let me know If you have any ML1s. Don't care If they're the "Magnum" edition.

Also, some Nexgens would be nice.


----------



## milkyspit (Jan 31, 2008)

skalomax said:


> Scott,
> Let me know If you have any ML1s. Don't care If they're the "Magnum" edition.
> 
> Also, some Nexgens would be nice.




Skalo, I've got a ML1 Smoothie Magnum sitting on my desk right now if you want it.

I'm also working on getting a couple more L1 hosts but they're not likely to get here for another week or so... still negotiating with the seller in fact. These would be more expensive than usual because it's looking like I'll need to pay full retail price for the hosts.

Nexgens not available at present. I can order one for your build if you cover the cost and can wait an extra week or so.


----------



## skalomax (Jan 31, 2008)

milkyspit said:


> Skalo, I've got a ML1 Smoothie Magnum sitting on my desk right now if you want it.
> 
> I'm also working on getting a couple more L1 hosts but they're not likely to get here for another week or so... still negotiating with the seller in fact. These would be more expensive than usual because it's looking like I'll need to pay full retail price for the hosts.
> 
> Nexgens not available at present. I can order one for your build if you cover the cost and can wait an extra week or so.


 
Hmm, Cash on hand for a ML1. 
I'll give you a call later today so maybe we can figure out a good EDC for me.

Thanks!


----------



## mbely2 (Jan 31, 2008)

Scott, If Scalo passes on this one I will take it, if this Magnum Milky L1 has "full-sized 20mm smooth reflector, Seoul SSCP4 USWOH emitter, and flat ultra-clear lens" for maximum throw.
Please let me know details,

Mark


----------



## milkyspit (Jan 31, 2008)

mbely2 said:


> Scott, If Scalo passes on this one I will take it, if this Magnum Milky L1 has "full-sized 20mm smooth reflector, Seoul SSCP4 USWOH emitter, and flat ultra-clear lens" for maximum throw.
> Please let me know details,
> 
> Mark




Mark, it's yours. Sounds like ol' Skalo will end up with a different configuration, and even if not, I can build him another, no problem.

If you can send Paypal I'll get your light in the mail today. PM here (might be full at the moment) or CPF Marketplace, or email...






:thumbsup:


----------



## mbely2 (Jan 31, 2008)

Scott,
Super! I just need to know the total amount and e-mail address where to send Paypal.
I sent you e-mail.
Thanks!

Mark


----------



## milkyspit (Jan 31, 2008)

mbely2 said:


> Scott,
> Super! I just need to know the total amount and e-mail address where to send Paypal.
> I sent you e-mail.
> Thanks!
> ...




Mark, email replied with the info you requested.


----------



## NotRegulated (Jan 31, 2008)

OK Milkyspit, what are my options to upgrade my 4-sided ML-1?

I am considering this. I have one of your ML-1's. It has a Lux III UXOJ and a McR-18 reflector. 

I just recently got a stock Surefire latest edition L1 Cree and am wow'ed by the brightness. Smaller and brighter than my ML-1. My only criticism of it would be the low is too bright. 

If I was to upgrade my ML-1 what are the possibilities that would make it at least as bright as the L1 Cree with a lower low? Also, I would like my ML-1 to be a bit floodier than it is now with the McR-18 reflector.


----------



## py702 (Jan 31, 2008)

Hi Milky, please check your email regarding a TW4 mod. :thumbsup:

Thanks,

Paul


----------



## gottawearshades (Feb 2, 2008)

I now have my ML1 Cree Extreme. Wow. I can't wait to try it out.

I think I've got a keeper here.

Scott, I just sent you an email, about swapping out the reflector of my Smoothy.

Cheers.


----------



## bat Action (Feb 3, 2008)

Hi Scott

I am interested in having an a surefire L1 Cree modded by Yourself.
I don't have the flahlight,and would you be able source one to avoid it numerous trips across the Atlantic?

I am a firearms officer and shooter and would like one with good throw, but will be guided by your expertise in this field.

What would be wait time, cost, runtime etc

Your Pm box was full so reply via that please as it can be days before i get back on a computer.

Thanks Graeme


----------



## NotRegulated (Feb 3, 2008)

What is a ML-1 Cree Extreme? It sounds like the upgrade I need for my Lux III UXOJ.


----------



## gottawearshades (Feb 4, 2008)

NotRegulated said:


> What is a ML-1 Cree Extreme? It sounds like the upgrade I need for my Lux III UXOJ.



I'd like to post a full review once I have a chance to take it into the woods, but here's what Scott did for me: Take a stock L1 Cree. Change the drive level and adjust the resistance in the tailcap so the High is more than twice as bright, and the Low is half as bright. Leave the optic in place, but make it focusable, so I can change the size of the hotspot and eliminate some of the ringyness. 

My first impression is, why didn't Surefire think of this in the first place?

But now, I see maybe they're. Their new lights have lower lows and higher highs, and the new U2 is focusable!

Cheers!


----------



## bondr006 (Feb 4, 2008)

This is one of the best, if not the best Milky L1 mod I have ever had. It is a little pocket rocket throw monster. I never leave home without it. And btw GWS....Try an AW 3.7v protected rcr123a in it. You think it's bright now....You'll really have to wear shades:thumbsup:


----------



## Crenshaw (Feb 4, 2008)

Anyone know if milky is doing ML-1s with the new L1 Cree as host?
as in, he gets the L1, and does the mod, and i can buy the whole thing...and also, because the first post is confusing, and im in the midst of decifering it, just in case i dont, which is the absolute brightest mod with a regular low?

thanks bunches!

Crenshaw


----------



## BSBG (Feb 5, 2008)

Crenshaw said:


> Anyone know if milky is doing ML-1s with the new L1 Cree as host?
> as in, he gets the L1, and does the mod, and i can buy the whole thing...and also, because the first post is confusing, and im in the midst of decifering it, just in case i dont, which is the absolute brightest mod with a regular low?
> 
> thanks bunches!
> ...



Yes, see the two preceding posts :devil:.

The "X" mod increases the drive current, so that would be your brightest option. I am sure Milkyspit will chime in shortly...


----------



## NotRegulated (Feb 5, 2008)

How about Cree upgrades to one of his older luxIII ML-1's?


----------



## BSBG (Feb 5, 2008)

NotRegulated said:


> How about Cree upgrades to one of his older luxIII ML-1's?



In general, a Seoul P4 is an easier swap for a Luxeon since the reflectors are basically the same. I have a UWAJ ML-1 that I picked up from a fellow member. It is a four sided body with the "magnum" head and a stippled 20mm reflector. I was going to have Milky swap in an SSC P4, but decided the tint was so nice that a few more lumens was not worth it, for me.


----------



## MarNav1 (Feb 5, 2008)

Crenshaw and NotRegulated, Milky is very flexible with these mods. I can't speak for him of course but I'm sure he can do both of your mods. He's only an email or phone call away. Enjoy!


----------



## Crenshaw (Feb 5, 2008)

BSBG said:


> Yes, see the two preceding posts :devil:.
> 
> The "X" mod increases the drive current, so that would be your brightest option. I am sure Milkyspit will chime in shortly...


 
Thanks, but was wondering if he starts with a L1 cree host, cos i dont want to have to buy one, ship to him, and ship back, but i guess he does then...

But i think ill wait for my L1 Cree to come in first, and use it till its Useless..:devil: then either get a new one from scott, of milky that one...

Oh i cant wait to join the L1 family..

Crenshaw


----------



## ttran97 (Feb 5, 2008)

Crenshaw said:


> Thanks, but was wondering if he starts with a L1 cree host, cos i dont want to have to buy one, ship to him, and ship back, but i guess he does then...
> 
> But i think ill wait for my L1 Cree to come in first, and use it till its Useless..:devil: then either get a new one from scott, of milky that one...
> 
> ...



You could try ordering from a dealer and having it shipped directly to milkyspit...or buy from someone in the MarketPlace and doing the same thing. I've done that a few times with parts that I needed him to work on, and I did the exact same thing with an L1 that I bought off another CPFer. 

The L1 Cree mod is simply amazing. The high mode of up to 180 lumen blows the stock 65 lumen out of the water...while the low mode puts out a very eye-pleasing 5 lumen for those late-night bathroom breaks or midnight snack attacks. 

Honestly, I have yet to see a better light than the milkyspit modded L1 Cree. I recently had to sell one of mine for $250, but in my opinion, it's worth over $300, easy. It is the most versatile light you can buy! The head is focusable, so you can make the beam a tight, focused light...but also de-focus it and have a broad beam for upclose needs. 

Whatever mod you choose to have Scott do for you, you won't be disappointed. His reputation here is impeccable and his craftsmanship is amazing!


----------



## mbely2 (Feb 5, 2008)

My ML1 Smoothie Magnum "with full-sized 20mm smooth reflector, Seoul SSCP4 USWOH emitter, and flat ultra-clear lens" arrived yesterday and I am happy like a kid 
Thank you, Scott! 
And thank you, Skalo, for letting me get this one 

Mark



milkyspit said:


> Mark, it's yours. Sounds like ol' Skalo will end up with a different configuration, and even if not, I can build him another, no problem.
> 
> If you can send Paypal I'll get your light in the mail today. PM here (might be full at the moment) or CPF Marketplace, or email..
> 
> :thumbsup:


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## Fooboy (Feb 5, 2008)

How does taking the L1 Cree from 65 lumens to 180 effect the run time?

I imagine with over double the output the runtime on high would be around 45-50 minutes?

Milky - you have a PM.

Thanks!


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## MetalZone (Feb 7, 2008)

Hi Scott, I sent you an email.
Thanks!


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## DavidR (Feb 7, 2008)

Email sent Scott.

Had a quick quesiton for you though...can you do similar mods to the M1 that you can do to the L1? I really prefer the look of the M1 better.


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## bat Action (Feb 7, 2008)

Hi Everyone

I am looking how i can order a ML 1 Cree, from Scott has he has not chimed in for a while.

If anyone has purchased from him recently how can i go about it???

Thanks Graeme


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## Crenshaw (Feb 13, 2008)

Scott! email inbound...

EDIT: Scott replied!, I am on my way to an ML1 CX

Crenshaw


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## ttran97 (Feb 15, 2008)

I just got back my second ML-1x. I think it's even brighter than the old one! Man, this thing throws beautifully and I simply love the UI on this light! Thanks again for an awesome job, milkyspit! :twothumbs


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## skalomax (Feb 20, 2008)

Scott, My Milky L1e Is superb. Couldn't of asked for a better beam pattern.

Thanks again!


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## mbely2 (Feb 20, 2008)

skalomax said:


> Scott, My Milky L1e Is superb. Couldn't of asked for a better beam pattern.
> 
> Thanks again!



Scalo, we, Milky's fans, need more info about this light! 
What is "e" stands for?
Pics will be nice too 

Mark


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## skalomax (Feb 20, 2008)

Hi Mbley,
The ML1e Is something Scott talked me Into, It's basically a Flat sided Surefire L1 host with a surefire E1e head, NG400 driver, and a SSC. The NG400 gives more than 2hrs of flat runtime, lovin' it.

The beam pattern in the E1e is awesome, reminds me of my floodmaster but. with brighter and wider sidespill and a little hotter hotspot. I'll make a thread of It with pictures soon. Batteries are charging. Anywho, thanks for the interest.


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## bondr006 (Feb 20, 2008)

Damn....I think I'm in


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## mbely2 (Feb 20, 2008)

Thanks, Scalo!
Sounds like another "must have" light 
Does it have 2 levels of output like L1?

Mark


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## skalomax (Feb 20, 2008)

mbely2 said:


> Thanks, Scalo!
> Sounds like another "must have" light
> Does it have 2 levels of output like L1?
> 
> Mark


 
Thanks Mark, 
Yes It has two levels just like a Milky L1. Everything's the same except the head and the slightly more efficient circuit. 
I can honestly say this is the best ML1 variant I have ever had.

lol thanks bondr006.


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## depusm12 (Feb 20, 2008)

I'm waiting for my ML1 hopefully I'll get it tomorrow. :devil:


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## mbely2 (Feb 20, 2008)

skalomax said:


> Thanks Mark,
> Yes It has two levels just like a Milky L1. Everything's the same except the head and the slightly more efficient circuit.
> I can honestly say this is the best ML1 variant I have ever had.



It does sounds like fantastic light!
Thanks for sharing.


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## skalomax (Feb 21, 2008)

Here are some beamshots that I tried to make as "real world" as possible. :green:

ML1e (low)








ML1e (high)


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## Crenshaw (Feb 23, 2008)

Scott your Pm box is full! i emailed you...im really excited about an ML1 Cree Extreme, please get back to me soon...

Crenshaw


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## ttran97 (Feb 25, 2008)

I just got my ML-1x back from milkyspit. I had fried it when a friend of mine (ahem, cough cough) convinced me to put the head on an E2e body. Bad idea. Anyway, now my ML-1x is even brighter than before! I'd say it's pushing 200+ lumen on one RCR123! 

Thanks for the great job and fast turn-around, milkyspit! :thumbsup:


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## bondr006 (Feb 25, 2008)

:tsk: Liar, Liar, pants on fire...I'm watching you Tran:tsk:



ttran97 said:


> I had fried it when a friend of mine (ahem, cough cough) convinced me to put the head on an E2e body. Bad idea.


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## ttran97 (Feb 25, 2008)

bondr006 said:


> :tsk: Liar, Liar, pants on fire...I'm watching you Tran:tsk:



Hmm? I never said it was _you_... :shrug: Hahaha! :sick2:


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## bondr006 (Feb 25, 2008)

Oops!!! I never said it was me either...:nana::nana::nana:



ttran97 said:


> Hmm? I never said it was _you_... :shrug: Hahaha! :sick2:


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## Crenshaw (Feb 25, 2008)

Scott, are you exccedingly busy? i want an L1 X-Cree...:sigh: but ill wait if you are really busy right now...

Crenshaw


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## BigHonu (Feb 26, 2008)

Hi Scott,

Email sent.

Thanks
Brian


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## Crenshaw (Mar 4, 2008)

Hey scott, Pm-ed you awhile back, and yesterday..just in case you didnt see it..

Crenshaw


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## KDOG3 (Mar 7, 2008)

I just PM'ed him as well. I have a new Cree L1 coming and I want to get it modded for a higher high and a lower low and be able to take RCR123s'


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## munchs (Mar 7, 2008)

bondr006 said:


> You are a good man Scott. I have nothing but the utmost regard for you. I have had nothing but the most pleasant experience with you through all 3 mods you did for me. The work you did, and the expediency with which you got them done and sent back to me was certainly beyond my wildest expectations. When the opportunity comes, I will not hesitate to enlist your services again in the future. The phone conversations we have had have been some of the most pleasant I have had with anyone to be sure, and I look forward to talking to you again. I feel guilty taking your time, knowing how busy you are and how little personal time you have to yourself, but you have such a great personality and a nature that just makes people want to get to know you. I hope that we do get to meet one day....even if it means I take a drive to Jersey for the next get together. Hopefully you'll get to come down here for the holidays, and both I and Flying Turtle will get to meet you. I guess what I'm trying to say, is that having Milky work on your light is definitely worth the wait. Having Scott for a friend is priceless.
> 
> *[SIZE=+1]Milky L1 gen3 Smoothie[/SIZE]*
> 
> ...


 
I'm really interested in the Milky L1 TIR. Among all the great features it has, I like the 'focusable' optic the most. Can anyone tell me how it works or if possible can anyone direct me to where I can see the pictures of the beam shots, flood to spot? Thanks in advance.
That's awesome collection of Milky Mods, by the way.:thumbsup:


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## milkyspit (Apr 1, 2008)

*[size=+1]ML1 Special Reserve: L2 Head, LuxK2-TFFC Emitter, Four-Flats Body[/size]*

Just posted a Milky L1 'Special Reserve' in Custom BST... the thread is *over here*.









































'Special Reserve' indicates the light is somehow limited in nature, or built using unusual components, a custom one-off, etc.


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## Fooboy (Apr 9, 2008)

Milky,

PM sent regarding L1 efficiency mod. Don't know if you do it but had an idea/question.

Thanks.


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## Crenshaw (Apr 10, 2008)

Hey Scott, im still interested in the L1 Cree xtreme, PM me when you free to do one? thanks

Crenshaw


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## Crenshaw (May 22, 2008)

Still waiting to hear from you about Getting my L1 doneup...



Crenshaw


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## Per Arne (May 22, 2008)

Hi Scott,

Is there something called SSC P7 USWOH ?
How much will it improve an old L1 already useing the SSC P4 USWOH in output lumen (high/low) and runtime ?

Would you be able to modd and ARC AA, and if so what option do I have ?
I was thinking of one-stage output only, useing lithium battery...

Thanks,
PA


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## milkyspit (May 22, 2008)

Per Arne said:


> Hi Scott,
> 
> Is there something called SSC P7 USWOH ?
> How much will it improve an old L1 already useing the SSC P4 USWOH in output lumen (high/low) and runtime ?
> ...



:wave: PA, yes, basically... the actual bin code I have at present is CSWOI... think of it as four USWOH emitters stuffed into a single, large LED.

I could install one in an L1, definitely! :thumbsup: Based on experience so far with the P7, it ought to increase output on both beams by maybe 30% while maintaining the same runtimes. If we install the higher-output circuitry in the L1, overall output on a rechargeable would likely be around 300 lumens, and on a primary, around 240-250 lumens. On the other hand, the P7 in an L1 would be a pure flood beam as there wouldn't be enough room to install any meaningful amount of reflector. As a flood it would be nice!

Yes, I imagine I could put a P7 in an ArcAA host... it would take a fair amount of effort, meaning the pricing would not necessarily be bargain basement, and we would not even begin to tap the potential of the P7 in that particular host... on the other hand, it would blow away the stock 5mm LED, and that's probably an understatement... more like completely vaporize it! :naughty:

I've already put a P7 in a Fenix L0P Special Edition and got nice results. 



Crenshaw said:


> Still waiting to hear from you about Getting my L1 doneup...
> 
> 
> 
> Crenshaw



Crenshaw, I'm ready to build you one of those... of course, now I need to reply to your latest PM about the work.


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## skalomax (May 22, 2008)

Ah, I'm in need for a P7 Milky L1.


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## yekim (May 22, 2008)

skalomax said:


> Ah, I'm in need for a P7 Milky L1.



I just sent him a PM on getting an L2 P7'd. I ma all giddy with the thought of it.


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## milkyspit (May 22, 2008)

Guys, I've got a number of Seoul P7 so no worries there, at least I don't think so! :thinking:

On upgrades to L1, L2, and the like, some general observations:

1. In most cases they won't be running at full power.
2. They'll be pure flood in terms of beam, or very close to it.
3. They'll be plenty bright anyway. 

L2 and L4 heads would need some fairly radical surgery to prep them for the P7... basically, the majority of the existing built-in reflector will need to be removed... this is technically not that big a deal, though it does mean a little more expensive upgrade than would be possible with the L1, where the head is ready for a P7 build without the need to machine anything.

Don't mean to throw cold water on the P7 upgrades! Actually, quite the opposite, I think they're a useful option... and let's face it, for us flashaholics they're just downright fun, too!  ...I'm just being upfront with folks as I prefer to be.

Let the P7 feeding frenzy begin!  

(BTW, haven't put a P7 in an L1 yet... who's going to be the first victim?)

Some quick photos of a non-L1 but still compact P7 upgrade...


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## cqbdude (May 22, 2008)

I have an L1 head if you want to try to use it for this mod...




milkyspit said:


> Guys, I've got a number of Seoul P7 so no worries there, at least I don't think so! :thinking:
> 
> On upgrades to L1, L2, and the like, some general observations:
> 
> ...


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## milkyspit (May 22, 2008)

cqbdude said:


> I have an L1 head if you want to try to use it for this mod...




Sure! And I know you PM'd (or was it email?) in the past day or two, I'll be in touch as soon as I have a moment. The one thing not quite clear, and forgive me as I'm often pretty dense: are you volunteering to donate an L1 head in the interest of science, or requesting your light to be upgraded with a P7? I assume the latter?


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## ttran97 (May 22, 2008)

How about a P7 tower module for the M6??? Driven hard, of course! 1000+ lumen for an hour, capable of being used with the 11.1 volt fivemega 3x17670 battery holder! 

Just say the word and paypal will be on its way! :twothumbs


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## cqbdude (May 22, 2008)

ttran97 said:


> How about a P7 tower module for the M6??? Driven hard, of course! 1000+ lumen for an hour, capable of being used with the 11.1 volt fivemega 3x17670 battery holder!
> 
> Just say the word and paypal will be on its way! :twothumbs



Or maybe a cluster of P7's for the M6..


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## TonyTDMD (May 22, 2008)

I agree, I have a Turbohead that a P7 (or a few) would be super nice in!


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## Crenshaw (May 23, 2008)

milkyspit said:


> Crenshaw, I'm ready to build you one of those... of course, now I need to reply to your latest PM about the work.



yay! please PM me soon.. i still more or less remember the old PM about how the ML1 is done, so i just need a price,if there is any change... and your address. 

very excited....

my goodness, a P7 in an L0P sized light? wow.....

Crenshaw


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## mbely2 (May 23, 2008)

Just curious, how about U2 as a host for P7?
Would it be a difficult mod to make? What will it take to do such upgrade?

Thanks!

Mark


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## Per Arne (May 23, 2008)

:wave: Hi Scott, PM sent...


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## Cobra1027 (May 24, 2008)

hey scott... i know PM is usually the norm but i sent you an email of my "problem" and what i wish to get 

anyways add on to that.. a 240+lum flood sounds like a nice addon as well.. to the list that is.. hmm... let me know thanks

Edgar COBRA


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## Crenshaw (May 25, 2008)

hey scott...any chance youll be PM-ing me a response soon? 

ive picked an ML1 over and Arc6 already...

Crenshaw


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## cat (May 25, 2008)

I like the idea of a P7 in an L1, very much, but I'm thinking that maybe I need a pocket thrower. I don't suppose there's anything that could be done - given the stock reflector - other than just the high output module...?


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## gottawearshades (May 25, 2008)

To go off the topic of P7-izing an L1, there are some other interesting possibilities.

I wonder, how tough would it be to cram one of those P7s and a driver, like the MM+, into a E1e head? Then you'd have a very Lego-able super Mule-style head, with one or two levels and lots of versatility as far as bodies to attach it to. 

I also have a Gerber Carnivore that is begging me to have it modded. The tint is terrible, and a Seoul P7 that could run on a 123A, AA, or AA is tempting.

O, how about a putting one in a Novatac to make a programmable Mule?


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## Crenshaw (May 25, 2008)

gottawearshades said:


> To go off the topic of P7-izing an L1, there are some other interesting possibilities.
> 
> I wonder, how tough would it be to cram one of those P7s and a driver, like the MM+, into a E1e head? Then you'd have a very Lego-able super Mule-style head, with one or two levels and lots of versatility as far as bodies to attach it to.
> 
> I also have a Gerber Carnivore that is begging me to have it modded. The tint is terrible, and a Seoul P7 that could run on a 123A, AA, or AA is tempting.



i thought the main reason everyone wasnt putting P7 hand over fist into lights was because if the insane drive levels you need to drive it properly?

Crenshaw


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## milkyspit (May 29, 2008)

Crenshaw said:


> hey scott...any chance youll be PM-ing me a response soon?
> 
> ive picked an ML1 over and Arc6 already...
> 
> Crenshaw




Crenshaw, I just sent you a PM with all the prior info I could locate as well as my best understanding of what you want, how much it costs, where to send your light, etc. Please review and confirm that I've got it right, or not, via PM as soon as convenient. Hope we're finally on the same page and may move forward! Please accept my apology for my part in slowing things down, and let's take it from here. :thumbsup:


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## Crenshaw (May 29, 2008)

milkyspit said:


> Crenshaw, I just sent you a PM with all the prior info I could locate as well as my best understanding of what you want, how much it costs, where to send your light, etc. Please review and confirm that I've got it right, or not, via PM as soon as convenient. Hope we're finally on the same page and may move forward! Please accept my apology for my part in slowing things down, and let's take it from here. :thumbsup:



really no apology needed...

considering what i hear about these things, its worth any wait!

omgoshimsoexcited! yayyyy!

ahem...

Crenshaw


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## Crenshaw (Jun 19, 2008)

i got it!

bump for a fantastic light..

Crenshaw


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## Cobra1027 (Jun 24, 2008)

PM sent


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## milkyspit (Jun 25, 2008)

*[size=+1]New Review Thread[/size]*

Xcel730 recently posted a review of his ML1 build *over here*. His was a hybrid build consisting of rev2 head upgraded to Seoul SSC emitter and 'Smoothie' reflector, on an L1 Cree body.


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## coloradogps (Jun 25, 2008)

I think that I need one of these....

To go with my ML1 4-Sided....


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## Raven67 (Aug 12, 2009)

Hi MilkySpit,

E-mail sent, would like my Old L1 (Optic) modified. Need a really good light, very happy to have found this forum, and really happy to read about your your mods and fantastic reviews received. Thanks in advance.

Raven67


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## Raven67 (Aug 12, 2009)

Hi MilkySpit,

Sorry for the typing on the post before this one, I did not mean to misquote your name. Anyway, sent you a PM by E-mail. I would like to get my L-1 upgraded and forgot to mention the addition of the delrin stand up tail cap. I'd sure like one if you have it.

Thanks.

Raven 67


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## novice (Jun 17, 2011)

Milky,
PM sent.


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## hoclifford (Aug 31, 2011)

milky you still have any flathead or headless l1's for sale?


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## warubozu (Apr 16, 2012)

I know this is a old thread revival but Milky do you still have any old version ML-1 for sale?


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## BenChiew (May 23, 2012)

Is Milky still operating?


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## milkyspit (May 23, 2012)

Benchiew said:


> Is Milky still operating?




Yes, Ben, Milky is still operating. 

I see that you sent me an email around 9:45am my time. I'll reply next chance I get.


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## BenChiew (May 26, 2012)

Ok. No problem milky.


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## R.VanWinkle (Sep 1, 2012)

I was recently lucky enough to purchase a used ML1 from the marketplace (ML1 Cree TIR Focusable MM+/43 ohm Tail). From previous posts I see that it's ok to swap the modified tailcap with different lights, but am wondering if it would be safe to try swapping the ML1 head onto my stock L1 Cree and vice versa.

Just curious to see how the stock led will do with the MadMax Plus driver. Currently using an RCR in the stock L1 there is a little improvement, but still nowhere near the output of my 110 lumen E1B. Milky with either primaries or RCRs of course blows away the E1B.

I realize this is an old thread but hope there will be ML1 aficianados out there to give me a hand.

Thanks, RVW


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## milkyspit (Sep 1, 2012)

R.VanWinkle said:


> I was recently lucky enough to purchase a used ML1 from the marketplace (ML1 Cree TIR Focusable MM+/43 ohm Tail). From previous posts I see that it's ok to swap the modified tailcap with different lights, but am wondering if it would be safe to try swapping the ML1 head onto my stock L1 Cree and vice versa.
> 
> Just curious to see how the stock led will do with the MadMax Plus driver. Currently using an RCR in the stock L1 there is a little improvement, but still nowhere near the output of my 110 lumen E1B. Milky with either primaries or RCRs of course blows away the E1B.
> 
> ...




Hi RVW, the head from your ML1 should work fine on a stock L1 body, and vice versa. No problem that I can see. Enjoy!


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## R.VanWinkle (Sep 1, 2012)

Milky, thanks for getting back to me! Just getting dark here, but looks like although both stock pieces are nicely improved by swapping onto ML1 pieces, still nowhere near the beautiful beam of the complete ML1. Curiosity satisfied, but now more than ever I've got an urge to get my poor feeble new (NOS) L1 turned into an ML1 if it's in the cards. I'll send you a PM shortly,

Thanks again and have a good weekend, RVW


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## chnzwh (Feb 18, 2013)

Is Milky still operating? I sent him two PMs but received no reply. :sigh:


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## tsl (Feb 18, 2013)

chnzwh said:


> Is Milky still operating? I sent him two PMs but received no reply. :sigh:


Try sending him an email.


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## tobrien (Feb 18, 2013)

chnzwh said:


> Is Milky still operating? I sent him two PMs but received no reply. :sigh:



he's *extremely* busy afaik with life outside of flashlight stuff


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## Cypher_Aod (Mar 1, 2013)

tobrien said:


> he's *extremely* busy afaik with life outside of flashlight stuff



Awww, I hope all is well for him.

I guess I'll just have to wait and stare at my "new" L1 until he's able to mod it for me 






It's so pretty! 
I bought it from a customer where I work for £60, still with original battery as far as I can tell!
The guy's a Police Officer too, so that makes it all the better!


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## DDS (Mar 6, 2020)

I have a Milky ML1 4 flat side Floodmaster Milky built for me. It’s a fantastic light that I use very often. Does anyone know a brand of protected rechargeables that would fit my stock tube?
Thanks! Dave


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## scout24 (Mar 6, 2020)

I use red efest 700mah cells in my 4 flats ML1 and my Arnor, for what it's worth. IMR Li-Mn cells. You need to keep an eye on voltage so they don't over discharge, but they work and fit fine.


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