# Zebralight is going to come out with flashlights! part 2



## dealgrabber2002 (Oct 7, 2009)

Zebralight informed me that they are coming out with flashlights.

The models are:
SC30
SC30f
SC50
SC50f

Edit: *UPDATES*

SC30: R2 and R5
SC30f: R2
SC50: R2 and R5
SC50f: R2
H31: R2 and R5
H51: R2 and R5

- All come with side click switches (Panasonic, 300000 cycles).
- UI for the SC30/SC30f: 
(similar to the H60) default setting Turbo, Med1, and Low1.
Double click to High, Med2, and Low2. 
auto fall back to High from Turbo after certain time
UI for the SC50/SC50f is similar but has not been finalized yet
- runtimes at Low2 is over 2 weeks (final spec will be based on the first production batch)
- type III class I (non-dyed or natual) surface
- 'uni-body' design: the entire body of the light is machined from one piece of aluminum and
acting as a big heatsink for the LED.
You probably know that up till now, a typical flashlight has 3 sections (besides the tailcap) 
plus one for the circuit, and the heat from the LED stays mostly in the small middle section,
with its dissipation paths blocked by layters of anodizing surfaces.
- SCHOTT optical glass, AR coated
- (bezel down) clip
- SC30 67mm, SC30f 66mm, SC50 80mm, SC50f 79mm
- SC30 and SC30f fit inside of silicone holders for the H30. You can mix and match SC30,
SC30f or H30 on one headband. A silicone holder will be in the package. 

Along with the headlamp H51 and H31 (I think it's like H501/H30 but with reflector).

They said it will come out in ~2 months.

I am so excited! Might be my first buy of 2010!


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## davidt1 (Jan 8, 2010)

At $65, the new light is $6 more than their current lights. For that money, I want XP-G emitters and H501R UI.


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## qtaco (Jan 8, 2010)

But you're also getting a reflector, lens, superior body design (with better heat sinking), plus an integrated clip. That doesn't seem unreasonable to me.


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## veleno (Jan 8, 2010)

59$ on the Zebralight website. I think it's a good price!!

SC30 just ordered.


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## olrac (Jan 8, 2010)

qtaco said:


> But you're also getting a reflector, lens, superior body design (with better heat sinking), plus an integrated clip. That doesn't seem unreasonable to me.



i agree doesn't sound bad at all, look well made from the pictures.


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## uplite (Jan 8, 2010)

Copying the sexy SC30 pictures from *part 1*:














-Jeff


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## dealgrabber2002 (Jan 8, 2010)

I think I am going to get my first neutral tint flashlight. But I am going to wait for the AA version.


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## Dan FO (Jan 8, 2010)

It has my most hated feature ............ parasitic drain.:thumbsdow


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## TooManyGizmos (Jan 8, 2010)

Dan , how can you know that before you get one, to test ?


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## olrac (Jan 8, 2010)

Here's hoping that the neutral version will be an R2 xp-e if not a neutral xp-g. Hey I can hope can't I.:laughing:


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## uplite (Jan 8, 2010)

Dan FO said:


> It has my most hated feature ............ parasitic drain.:thumbsdow





TooManyGizmos said:


> Dan , how can you know that before you get one, to test ?


Because it is obviously a soft-touch, smart switch, just like the other Zebralights.

That's fine with me. The benefits of a soft-touch switch (easy single finger tap) and smart control (Lo-Med-High or High-Med-Low or double-click for other settings) faaaar outweigh the downside of parasitic drain.

Anyway, I always turn off my Zebralight by locking out the tailcap, so it can't turn on in my pocket or bag. That kills the parasitic drain too. Problem solved. :thumbsup:

-Jeff


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## olrac (Jan 8, 2010)

:devil:


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## uplite (Jan 8, 2010)

olrac said:


> Here's hoping that the neutral version will be an R2 xp-e if not a neutral xp-g. Hey I can hope can't I.:laughing:


That would be great!

But checking the CREE website...the XPE neutral maxes out at Q4...and XPG neutral is not yet available. 

I would still buy a Q3 or Q4 neutral. These LEDs put out more than enough light for most of my uses. The problem is that most flashlights have crappy optics that fail to deliver the light. If Zebralight is as smart about their new optics as they were with the old ones, Q3/Q4 neutral will be fine. :thumbsup:

-Jeff


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## YourTime (Jan 8, 2010)

This time I wont buy the R123 battery version as I have so many problems with this battery

I will buy it if it's 18650 or AA


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## Dan FO (Jan 8, 2010)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Dan , how can you know that before you get one, to test ?



Because it said so on their website.


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## olrac (Jan 8, 2010)

uplite said:


> That would be great!
> 
> But checking the CREE website...the XPE neutral maxes out at Q4...and XPG neutral is not yet available.
> 
> ...



XP-E R2's will be available in March at Cutters XP-G's are in the works


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## dracodoc (Jan 8, 2010)

I have a question:
Do we need to remove the clip to put it on the headband? 

I guess it has to be removed. I used to use a simplified method mentioned in cpf to clip my H501 to a rubber band directly. It may not be as secure as the provided holder, but can be in seconds, otherwise I need to remove the clip of H501 before using it as headlamp.


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## Burgess (Jan 9, 2010)

Wake me up when the *AA* flashlights arrive.

:tired::sleepy:
_


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## Woods Walker (Jan 9, 2010)

uplite said:


> Because it is obviously a soft-touch, smart switch, just like the other Zebralights.
> 
> That's fine with me. The benefits of a soft-touch switch (easy single finger tap) and smart control (Lo-Med-High or High-Med-Low or double-click for other settings) faaaar outweigh the downside of parasitic drain.
> 
> ...


 
Someplace I read that the drain would take a very long time to run down the battery in a H501. Anyone know that link to lights with parasitic drains here on CPF.


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## dracodoc (Jan 9, 2010)

For SC30, from zebralight website



Battery: One CR123A lithium primary or RCR123 Li-ion rechargeable. Batteries are not included in the package.
Battery Shelf Life: Over 3 years under parasitic drain


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## ZebraLight (Jan 9, 2010)

Woods Walker said:


> Someplace I read that the drain would take a very long time to run down the battery in a H501. Anyone know that link to lights with parasitic drains here on CPF.


 
The parasitic drain in an H501 is less than 2 microamps, way below the self discharging rate of a typical battery.


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## Woods Walker (Jan 9, 2010)

ZebraLight said:


> The parasitic drain in an H501 is less than 2 microamps, way below the self discharging rate of a typical battery.


 

Yea I remember reading something like many years beyond the life of even a Lithium primary but could be wrong as don't know the math.


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## HKJ (Jan 9, 2010)

Dan FO said:


> It has my most hated feature ............ parasitic drain.:thumbsdow



Zebralight has found a way to make the drain insignificant, at least on some of their lights.



TooManyGizmos said:


> Dan , how can you know that before you get one, to test ?



Due to the UI description, it has to be a light with parasitic drain.



Woods Walker said:


> Someplace I read that the drain would take a very long time to run down the battery in a H501. Anyone know that link to lights with parasitic drains here on CPF.



Are you talking about my list of lights?


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## Snow (Jan 9, 2010)

I always lock out my headlamps when they are in a bag or pocket anyway, so the parasitic drain is not an issue to me. I am excited for these lights!


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## LG&M (Jan 9, 2010)

AA + neutral tint =


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## YourTime (Jan 9, 2010)

Zerbralight

Will the 18650 version be as low as SC30?

low mode is very important for me and when will this version be released?


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## ZebraLight (Jan 9, 2010)

YourTime said:


> Zerbralight
> 
> Will the 18650 version be as low as SC30?
> 
> low mode is very important for me and will this version be release?


 
Yes, the lower low of the SC60 (18650 version) will be *around* 0.4lm, with much longer runtimes. The SC60 will be released within two months.


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## YourTime (Jan 9, 2010)

Any chance if i can get them abit faster? 


I cant wait that long


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## berry580 (Jan 9, 2010)

i'd prefer AA version as well


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## Tixx (Jan 9, 2010)

Any chance to add the SC60 to the first post and add battery type for each one? Thanks!


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## davidt1 (Jan 9, 2010)

Bring on the XP-G. Cheaper lights by 4Sevens and Titanium Innovation have XP-G emitters......a month ago.


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## Lite_me (Jan 9, 2010)

I want one of these but I'm gonna TRY and hold out for the AA.


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## dracodoc (Jan 9, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Bring on the XP-G. Cheaper lights by 4Sevens and Titanium Innovation have XP-G emitters......a month ago.



I think using newest LED means more risk in tint lottery. Many XP-G users reported greenish tint.


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## Woods Walker (Jan 9, 2010)

HKJ said:


> Zebralight has found a way to make the drain insignificant, at least on some of their lights.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Yea that's it. Thanks.

H501: 1.5uA, 167 years with AA

Oh snap......


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## dracodoc (Jan 9, 2010)

Somebody already got one  [email protected] have first hand experience:
http://www.shoudian.com/thread-120268-1-1.html

Maybe you can't see the pic if not registered.
I'm forwarding his pics just for your reference, if cowboy or somebody think it is not appropriate, I'll remove them ASAP.

several interesting pics
















*NITECORE NDI R2 (ENELOOP) ZebraLight SC30(AW16340)*　 *50CM *to wall









*NITECORE d10(ENELOOP) ZebraLight SC30(CR123A)* lowest low, not fully exposed









the white balance was off in above, SC30 should be white.


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## TooManyGizmos (Jan 10, 2010)

I hope ZebraLight won't price their SC60 too high ... like they did their other 18650 light.

It needs to be compatibly priced with other 18650 flashlights on the market.
.


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## GlobalPlayer (Jan 10, 2010)

very nice light,
can't wait to see some beamshots;
can't wait to see the AA and 18650

can't see the pics above, maybe some registered user can help

GP


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## jabe1 (Jan 10, 2010)

I like the design, although it will be a pocket shredder with the clip resting on those cooling fins!
Despite that, I'd buy a neutral AA model when available.


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## veleno (Jan 10, 2010)

GlobalPlayer said:


> can't see the pics above, maybe some registered user can help


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## davidt1 (Jan 10, 2010)

Money put aside for the AA version with XP-G emitter and H501R UI. The big hot spot will do a better job as a hand-free light for up-close work than flashlights with narrower beam. Will use it in that role as a secondary function and a backup for the H501.

Will buy another H501 with XP-G emitter also. The big hot spot won't matter this time, but the effeciency will.

I actually hoped that the misprint "80 degree flood" wasn't a misprint because a reflectored light with more throw and an 80 degree flood would be an amazing light.


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## GoingGear.com (Jan 11, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Money put aside for the AA version with XP-G emitter and H501R UI. The big hot spot will do a better job as a hand-free light for up-close work than flashlights with narrower beam. Will use it in that role as a secondary function and a backup for the H501.
> 
> Will buy another H501 with XP-G emitter also. The big hot spot won't matter this time, but the effeciency will.
> 
> I actually hoped that the misprint "80 degree flood" wasn't a misprint because a reflectored light with more throw and an 80 degree flood would be an amazing light.



It was a misprint. That was the first thing I asked about when I saw the the specs originally. That was taken from one of the headlamps.


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## NonSenCe (Jan 11, 2010)

warm tint. that is what i wait for. 

i also wait for the AA version.. but i might be able to convince myself to buy the cr123 version .. as i do have plenty of AA lights already and only three cr123 lights. (not counting the lights that i use 18650 in.. even if they work with 2cr123s.)

but if they do keep the 18650 light priced low.. that would be tempting!


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## Jida (Jan 11, 2010)

AA version + solar charger = pretty much the best backpack light out there.

Being able to program the mode means that you could have your battery last a very very long time while still having the option of more seach light capability.

The D10 is pretty close to this and right now I see it as the king light for packing.

If the ZL puts out more light in a better beam pattern with more options then it will be the clear winner IMO.


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## russthetoolman (Jan 11, 2010)

Has anyone received an email from ZebraLight saying their light has shipped from Texas?
I ordered on the Jan. 8th and have not received an email, and it showed in stock at the time of the order. I did receive the order in my email, just not shipped yet.
Russ


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## YourTime (Jan 12, 2010)

1 thing i dont seem to understand is that why did they released the R123 version first whereas everyone wants AA or 18650. 

AA battery is so common in Australia and i assuming it would be similar for other countries too. 

It should be demand and supply 

Come one Zebralight, release the AA or 18650 Version


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## PhantomPhoton (Jan 12, 2010)

+1 for AA and 18650 plus neutral tint.


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## olrac (Jan 12, 2010)

YourTime said:


> 1 thing i dont seem to understand is that why did they released the R123 version first whereas everyone wants AA or 18650.



If it was an AA you probably would be seeing more posts from fans of 123 saying why isn't it a 123 battery light. So I'm not sure saying everyone wants an AA or 18650 more is accurate.


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## strinq (Jan 12, 2010)

olrac said:


> If it was an AA you probably would be seeing more posts from fans of 123 saying why isn't it a 123 battery light. So I'm not sure saying everyone wants an AA or 18650 more is accurate.



Actually i agree with YourTime. AA is a much more common battery that will appeal to the general public.


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## jtrucktools34 (Jan 12, 2010)

russthetoolman said:


> Has anyone received an email from ZebraLight saying their light has shipped from Texas?
> I ordered on the Jan. 8th and have not received an email, and it showed in stock at the time of the order. I did receive the order in my email, just not shipped yet.
> Russ



I ordered on the 9th. It said "Backordered" when I placed my order. I e-mailed ZL and they said they would more than likely be shipping this week. They are "about to receive" their shipment in from China.


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## russthetoolman (Jan 12, 2010)

Thanks for the update on the order. I had emailed requesting an update and haven't received a reply. Thanks for answering my question.
Russ


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## Crimson (Jan 12, 2010)

strinq said:


> Actually i agree with YourTime. AA is a much more common battery that will appeal to the general public.



True, but we aren't the general public  I think olrac has a point, the only ones "complaining" are the people who didn't get what they want yet.


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## liketotallyrandom (Jan 12, 2010)

Maybe they released the 123 version first, knowing it would be lower volume, in order to work out production bugs so that production is more "tuned" for the larger AA runs. That's what I would personally do if I were in the same situation.


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## lebox97 (Jan 12, 2010)

+1




liketotallyrandom said:


> Maybe they released the 123 version first, knowing it would be lower volume, in order to work out production bugs so that production is more "tuned" for the larger AA runs. That's what I would personally do if I were in the same situation.


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## Owen (Jan 12, 2010)

liketotallyrandom said:


> Maybe they released the 123 version first, knowing it would be lower volume, in order to work out production bugs so that production is more "tuned" for the larger AA runs. That's what I would personally do if I were in the same situation.


Well, thanks for ruining it for me
Seems to me most of the problems with the current lineup were with later releases, though...the AA and 18650 models. 

I'm mostly interested in the 123 version, but I'd need a 18650 model if I wanted to try a ZL as my handheld for work...which I don't, necessarily, but would probably buy one regardless.


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## NonSenCe (Jan 12, 2010)

as offtopic subject.. has anyone else gone to zebralights re modeled website and noticed that there is a tab for browsing products per price.. section ofr under 25 dollars aswell. 

so my simple mind does some math and takes that as proof they will be offering cheaper lights too.. soon!


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## liketotallyrandom (Jan 12, 2010)

or accessories under $25.


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## Blindasabat (Jan 12, 2010)

Correct. I really want the CR123 version, but have not seen the need to post it since it is the one coming out first. And CR123 lights ARE more common on CPF. Which is really the reason AA lovers are always posting that they want a AA version of everything. Nobody can convince me that 18650 lights are that common outside enthusiast circles. I have NEVER seen an 18650 in a B&M store outside a Laptop battery, and 99% of people don't know what you mean by 18650 cell. By the AA arguement of "they are so common everywhere," all 18650 lights should never sell or be of any use. They aren't even used by military who supported the rise of CR123s. 
Personally, I may still get the AA version instead of the SC30, but that depends on spec (CR123 still drive more lumens than NiMH or Alky AAs), and if I decide not to sell all my underused 14500's (not many AA lights support them, and the ones that do have better CR123 companions (ex: EX10, Quark, MiNi, Peak, etc.)). The main reasons I might get the AA version:
1) it will replace my only AA sideclick light, my LRI Proton, and 
2) the clip is on the fins on the SC30, and I will wait to see it that is reported as a real problem and if the AA version does not repeat that.

But if there is not warm AA version, that will over-rule all and I will get the SC30W anyway.


olrac said:


> If it was an AA you probably would be seeing more posts from fans of 123 saying why isn't it a 123 battery light. So I'm not sure saying everyone wants an AA or 18650 more is accurate.


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## hazna (Jan 13, 2010)

The OP suggests that there will floody versions of the lights coming out. Can zebralight confirm whether this is still in the plans?


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Jan 13, 2010)

Where I can buy the SC30 from? It is back-ordered at Zebralight.com.


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## madmook (Jan 13, 2010)

I think the release is at the end of January.


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## CathastrophiX (Jan 13, 2010)

I run the Chinese text on the Zebralight website trough Google translation:


_To better serve Chinese customers the world's leading _
_ZebraLight lighting products, has already set up my own shop lights Taobao peak according to a very, welcome you choose._
__ 
Edit: the SC30 seems to cost 299 yuan wich equals $44?


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## Tixx (Jan 13, 2010)

Just got a confirmation of my order shipping from ZebraLight. Others getting this too?


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## dealgrabber2002 (Jan 13, 2010)

CathastrophiX said:


> I run the Chinese text on the Zebralight website trough Google translation:
> 
> 
> _To better serve Chinese customers the world's leading _
> ...


 
Then why are we're being charged $64.99? :ironic:


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## davidt1 (Jan 13, 2010)

Don't go by the currency exchange value alone (assuming the translation is correct). Things always cost more when sold to international customers because of many pesky little things like import/export fees, regulation, customs, etc. etc.

Still, the cost to us should be around $54.

I expect to see reviews as early as the weekend.


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## Kindle (Jan 13, 2010)

liketotallyrandom said:


> or accessories under $25.



...or the online store was built from a template.


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## Tixx (Jan 13, 2010)

They didn't send me the delivery confirmation number in the e-mail though. I asked if they had one, guess I will wait and hopefully it arrives soon!


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## russthetoolman (Jan 13, 2010)

I got an email showing shipped today too


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## dwhitebird (Jan 13, 2010)

I got an email from Lillian today with an answer to my question as to what emitter they are using in the SC30 lights. She advised they would be using Cree XP-E. I thought they would be using the new XP-G. Maybe in the future models?


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## Snow (Jan 13, 2010)

I can't wait for the neutral emitters!!


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## sugibdg (Jan 14, 2010)

Anyone here already have SC30?

Just want to ask, are there any heat problems running continuously on high mode?

Also, any picture with others flash for size comparison?


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## Tixx (Jan 14, 2010)

dwhitebird said:


> I got an email from Lillian today with an answer to my question as to what emitter they are using in the SC30 lights. She advised they would be using Cree XP-E. I thought they would be using the new XP-G. Maybe in the future models?


 

XP-E R2?


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## Tixx (Jan 14, 2010)

russthetoolman said:


> I got an email showing shipped today too


 
Did you get a delivery number in your e-mail?


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## Tixx (Jan 14, 2010)

I don't expect it at home when i get there, but it might be. I don't have any tracking/confirmation numbers.


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## JJohn (Jan 14, 2010)

I swore I would never buy another Cr123 based light but I can't resist the side switch and access to both a low-low and a screaming high. The Zebralight website now says "In Stock" any idea how long between order and shipping? 

Also, for anyone who has seen this light, do I understand the UI right in that it is basically a three level light with two options for each level? You can select between two values for each of the three (low-med-high) levels? Will it remember the selections through battery changes?


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## Tixx (Jan 14, 2010)

Didn't make it here today.


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## 289 (Jan 14, 2010)

can't wait!!


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## turboBB (Jan 14, 2010)

EDIT: Started a dedicated thread for the SC30 here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3238448#post3238448


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## ZebraLight (Jan 15, 2010)

JJohn said:


> I swore I would never buy another Cr123 based light but I can't resist the side switch and access to both a low-low and a screaming high. The Zebralight website now says "In Stock" any idea how long between order and shipping?
> 
> Also, for anyone who has seen this light, do I understand the UI right in that it is basically a three level light with two options for each level? You can select between two values for each of the three (low-med-high) levels? Will it remember the selections through battery changes?


 
USPS First Class from Texas to California, 2-3 days.

It remembers the selections through battery changes.


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## dwhitebird (Jan 15, 2010)

Sent Lillian another email requesting more information on XP-E used in the SC30. Also, asked if they would be using new XP-G in the future.
Her response was "no idea what Bin for the XP-E. Will be using XP-G in the future."


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## Tixx (Jan 15, 2010)

dwhitebird said:


> Sent Lillian another email requesting more information on XP-E used in the SC30. Also, asked if they would be using new XP-G in the future.
> Her response was "no idea what Bin for the XP-E. Will be using XP-G in the future."


 
Hmmm...would be nice if they knew what was in the product. Still can't wait for mine to arrive.


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## JJohn (Jan 15, 2010)

I ordered yesterday afternoon. Can't wait to get it. This could be my new backpacking light. I will also buy a AA based light like this, my preference these days, if it comes out. 

Thanks Zebralight for answering my questions and finally producing a light that should provide good outdoor use and more comfort in the hand with the side switch.


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## JJohn (Jan 15, 2010)

Ordered yesterday afternoon - shipped today. Thanks for the quick service!


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## Tixx (Jan 15, 2010)

Mine was waiting for me when I got home. Very cool light!


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## Tixx (Jan 15, 2010)

So for pocket carry, what is to keep this from turning on and off? Does it auto off after a certain time?


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## Beacon of Light (Jan 15, 2010)

I want to see beamshots of moon mode.


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## Lite_me (Jan 15, 2010)

Beacon of Light said:


> I want to see beamshots of moon mode.









How's that!


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## TooManyGizmos (Jan 15, 2010)

Tixx said:


> So for pocket carry, *what is to keep this from turning on and off?* Does it auto off after a certain time?



Tailcap Lock-out .......... un-screw it a wee-bit.


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## Tixx (Jan 15, 2010)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Tailcap Lock-out .......... un-screw it a wee-bit.




Oh, ok, thanks! 

And wow! You are talking wee-bit for sure!


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## Tixx (Jan 16, 2010)

SC30w Flashlight Neutral White
*Pre-order. Estimated shipping date: Jan 25, 2010*


http://zebralight.3dcartstores.com/SC30w-Flashlight-Neutral-White_p_19.html



LED: Cree XP-E Neutral White (color temperature 4000-4300 K)
Light Output
High: *161* Lumens (0.9 hrs) or *87* Lumens (2 hrs)
Medium: *32* Lumens (12 hrs) or *17 *Lumens (23 hrs)
Low: *3.2* Lumens (3.7 days) or *0.3* Lumens (21 days)
Light output are out the front (OTF) values. Runtime tests are done using Panasonic CR123A lithium batteries. Runtimes are usually much shorter with rechargeable RCR123 (16340) batteries, especially with protected 16340s that have higher discharge cut off voltage.
 
Battery: One CR123A lithium primary or RCR123 Li-ion rechargeable. Batteries are not included in the package.
Battery Shelf Life: Over 3 years under parasitic drain
Beam Type
76° spill beam spread
8.6° (3 feet at 20 feet) hot spot


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## davidt1 (Jan 16, 2010)

Good stuff! Should make neutral white nuts happy, eh! Next up, AA version with XP-G for me.


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## olrac (Jan 16, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Good stuff! Should make neutral white nuts happy, eh! Next up, AA version with XP-G for me.








Why yes, yes it will!


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## hazna (Jan 16, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Good stuff! Should make neutral white nuts happy, eh! Next up, AA version with XP-G for me.



+1

Waiting for the AA with XP-G as well!


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## Tixx (Jan 16, 2010)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Tailcap Lock-out .......... un-screw it a wee-bit.



Forgot this morning and had one hell of a hot pocket when out for breakfast. Thought I was nuts at first as my right side seemed really warm near my waist so I ignored it for a minute and kept thinking I was getting nuked by my cell phone or something. Then I felt around again and it was the light. It was hotter than a mug just filled with coffee. Have to get used to unscrewing that little sucker!


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## davidt1 (Jan 16, 2010)

Tixx said:


> Forgot this morning and had one hell of a hot pocket when out for breakfast. Thought I was nuts at first as my right side seemed really warm near my waist so I ignored it for a minute and kept thinking I was getting nuked by my cell phone or something. Then I felt around again and it was the light. It was hotter than a mug just filled with coffee. Have to get used to unscrewing that little sucker!



I guess the new switch is still easy to activate by accident. I really hoped Zebralight could solve this problem. Not an easy one to solve though.


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## TooManyGizmos (Jan 17, 2010)

This has RAMPING ......... right ?


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## wapkil (Jan 17, 2010)

TooManyGizmos said:


> This has RAMPING ......... right ?



Yup, with press and hold that you wrote about before editing that post :nana:


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## TooManyGizmos (Jan 17, 2010)

wapkil said:


> Yup, with press and hold that you wrote about before editing that post :nana:




Yup , that edit was just in time , huh :nana:

(glad nobody else witnessed my stupidity , but you)

( I get all these dang UI's confused - sometimes can't even remember how to use the ones I've got)
.


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## wapkil (Jan 17, 2010)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Yup , that edit was just in time , huh :nana:
> 
> (glad nobody else witnessed my stupidity , but you)
> 
> ...



Well, it works the way you wanted it to so it kind of proves that the UI is just right  I have Zebras without "double click to switch between levels" but I think that with double click it may be the best clicky UI out there


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jan 17, 2010)

It will be nice to have just 1 button on the side , under the thumb , that controls everything.

I would like one more button on the other side .............
for digital Zoom focus control ..... flood to throw 


I wish the 18650 would hurry and come out ... that should be an ideal light.
.


----------



## CathastrophiX (Jan 18, 2010)

Neutral whites are up for preorder now.


----------



## StandardBattery (Jan 18, 2010)

TooManyGizmos said:


> *...*
> 
> I wish the 18650 would hurry and come out ... that should be an ideal light.


 
Absolutely, if they can use this design to shave 2-3cm or so off the typical length of an 18650 light it will be a sure winner. I'm looking for it in AA as well. I'm hoping. like their headlamp design. that it works extremely well as a design for all the different power sources.



Update: Ooops!!! I think GG may have messed up and sent me shipping notice for the wrong order... I hope not, i want the SC30!


----------



## Pavius (Jan 19, 2010)

Is there any news about the H51? Any specs? I'm really hoping they keep the H501's flood but add _some_ throw to it. Can someone post a wide beamshot of the SC30 showing its flood?


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## uplite (Jan 21, 2010)

Pavius said:


> Is there any news about the H51? Any specs? I'm really hoping they keep the H501's flood but add _some_ throw to it.


And I _really_ want a pure-throw version of the H501. 

Actually...scratch that. I want a dual-emitter version of the H501 that has one optic for 80º flood, and one optic for 7º spot (or the tightest spot possible, if 7º is not do-able). Like this:







The emitters share the same driver...choose flood or spot on demand, but not both at once.

The emitters share the same heatsink...which is larger than in the H501...so perhaps they can be driven slightly brighter.

And...perhaps the switch could be moved to the side of the head, so we can turn the light on, change levels, and rotate the angle all in the same smooth pinching motion.

I would pay $100 for that zebralight headlamp, in a heartbeat.

Anyone else want one?

-Jeff


----------



## NonSenCe (Jan 21, 2010)

nice idea. very doable in my mind. and wouldnt make it too long either. 

how about the swiveling head. side clicky. and slightly frosted lense cover built-in on the side of the light.. you know when pointing straight up it would be a normal flashlight.. when turned into h501 90degree light, there would be built in diffusor for flood. 

i once drew a sketch of a module that one could screw on top of the battery tube. you could choose to screw it to look like normal flashlight or as 90deg anglelight. 

or maybe a throwy h501 with reflector but a sliding diffusor you could just slide in and out infront of the lense.. throwy or slide the hidden inside the body diffusor infront of the lense for smooth flood. (and maybe sold different colors.. like red diff etc)

or just simply led lenser type spot to flood setup ..only via screwing the bezel tighter or looser. (romisen n29?) 

or how about thrower led on bottom end of the light and the floody one on other end. 

or just an anglelight that one could screw in or lock in any direction of square box. each side of the box would have different desing. one would have a window for all flood. one side would have a red diffusor. one side would have a thrower aspehric lense or something. and one side would be either be lock-out setting or reserved for clicky.

hmm.. what other crazy ideas i might come up now that clock is past midnite. hahah

(i still want warm tint sideclicky tiny edc worthy light)


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## turboBB (Jan 21, 2010)

Pavius said:


> Can someone post a wide beamshot of the SC30 showing its flood?


 
Check out my review of the SC30 (w/beamshots):
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/257321

Cheers,
Tim


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## dealgrabber2002 (Jan 22, 2010)

uplite said:


> And I _really_ want a pure-throw version of the H501.
> 
> Actually...scratch that. I want a dual-emitter version of the H501 that has one optic for 80º flood, and one optic for 7º spot (or the tightest spot possible, if 7º is not do-able). Like this:
> 
> ...



I LIKE THAT!


----------



## FliGuyRyan (Jan 22, 2010)

I've been racking my brain to understand how these thing's UI works. 

Can someone please explain in detail how they work... ?

Thanks,
Ryan

P.S. - How would these compare to the Quark 123 R5 lights? They're more like Fenix UI which I like, but until I understand the ZL's UI, I can't really make a fair choice.


----------



## olrac (Jan 22, 2010)

FliGuyRyan said:


> I've been racking my brain to understand how these thing's UI works.
> 
> Can someone please explain in detail how they work... ?
> 
> ...



*Quoted from TurboBB's review:*

"*UI*
The SC30's UI is nearly identical to the H501 in it's basic mode in that there are 3 levels (L, M, H) you can cycle through, where it greatly differs is when you double-click it while on.

From off:
- short click brings the light into instant H
- a long click (1/4 second) brings the light into instant L
- click and hold to cycle from L to H

From on:
- short click turns off the light
- click and hold to cycle from L to H (this is regardless if which level you're currently in, it'll always cycle from L to H)
- double-clicking will toggle it between the low or high for that level. So let's say these levels are:

L1 = Low Low
L2 = Low
L3 = Low Medium
L4 = Medium
L5 = Medium High
L6 = High

Double click at:
L to set it at L1 or L2
M to set it at L3 or L4
H to set it at L5 or L6

So you can therefore customize your light to any combination of:
-- L1,L3,L5 -- L1,L3,L6 -- L1,L4,L5 -- L1,L4,L6 --
-- L2,L3,L5 -- L2,L3,L6 -- L2,L4,L5 -- L2,L4,L6 --

Brilliant! This really gives the light some flexibility of programming without having to go through a ramping sequence. It's so straightforward that anyone should be able to program it very easily. Each step is in memory as soon as you toggle it so in case you accidentally overshoot the level you want to program, you need not worry about restarting it as with some lights I've read about."

*It doesn't take long to get used to this UI and in fact it has become my favorite UI in the last few days using it, it is very versatile.

Here it is next to a Quark 123 mini for size reference.




*


----------



## turboBB (Jan 22, 2010)

@ olrac

NEAT! What did you do to make the light that color?


----------



## hazna (Jan 22, 2010)

white balance setting on the camera?


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## olrac (Jan 22, 2010)

It was just the bad incandescent lighting and no flash, the mini is plain Ti and the Zebra is natural HA.


----------



## turboBB (Jan 22, 2010)

lol, ok. I thought you had colored them somehow. They look very cool in that copper color (esepcially the Quark).


----------



## FliGuyRyan (Jan 22, 2010)

olrac,

Thank you for the explanation. I find some irony in the fact that you have a comparison shot between the Quark 123 and the ZL. 

These are the two lights I'm trying to decide between. How do they compare? 

I believe having to "lock it out" would be a hassle. I really like the Fenix-style UI that the Quark has (correct?). How is the R5 in the Quark vs the LED in the ZL?

Thanks,
RC

P.S. I'm not trying to make this into a Quark discussion...


----------



## uplite (Jan 22, 2010)

FliGuyRyan said:


> I believe having to "lock it out" would be a hassle. I really like the Fenix-style UI that the Quark has...


Both the SC30 and the q-mini need a little twist to lock or unlock the light.

The big difference in UI is that once the zebralight is unlocked, you can change levels quickly and reliably with the side switch, with just one finger.

With the q-mini, you have to keep on twisting to get the level you want. And it might mode-skip over the level you wanted, so you have to keep twisting, twisting, twisting...

SC30 ftw.

-Jeff


----------



## JJohn (Jan 22, 2010)

I too was trying to make the same decision between the MiNi and the ZL. I am very happy with the ZL. These may not be important to you but they are differences that mattered to me:

The ZL does not roll away, even with the clip removed. The ZL has a low-low, this I use a great deal. The biggest point: I am more comfortable with the thumb side switch. I run at night and occasionally use a light for this. The side switch is much easier to use while bouncing down a trail or road. 

I give the ZL a slight turn of the tail cap to lock it out when I am not going to use it. No parasitic drain that way either (although it is very low drain anyway). So there is no negative to the switch for me.

The Mini is smaller by a bit and 4Sevens makes quality stuff so you can't go wrong with either...buy both, I probably will at some point.

Edit: Oh, I almost forgot, I think the UI is my favorite of the dozens I have used.


----------



## Tixx (Jan 22, 2010)

From an owner of a MiNi 123 R5, MiNi 123 Q3 and ZL SC30, if I had to choose just one, I would go for the ZL. Or ZL neutral that is coming out if that is your thing. I miss the hidden strobes and such, but this is one of those "I can't not have this in my collection" lights.


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## hazna (Jan 22, 2010)

FliGuyRyan said:


> olrac,
> I believe having to "lock it out" would be a hassle. I really like the Fenix-style UI that the Quark has (correct?). How is the R5 in the Quark vs the LED in the ZL?



I wouldn't really describe the quark mini's UI as fenix like. The regular quarks are more fenix-like though.


----------



## StandardBattery (Jan 22, 2010)

I got my SC30 today! 

This is one amazing light, feels like almost as big a break through as their headlamps were (are).

It is SMALL, but with the side button it really fits well in the hand and works great. 

It's hard to describe how incredible this light seems, because it's mostly a collection of subjective attributes of a tactile, ergonomic, size, and what not. I'll buy it in the other battery formats, but I think the CR123 size just might be the best for this light. I'll also buy neutral tint as soon as available from our CPF dealers. To me it's that good!


----------



## olrac (Jan 22, 2010)

RC Having both and if I had to choose it would be no contest, Zebralight definitely. The Quark Mini a great light, but the Zebralight has a level of sophistication that I have not seen in any other light. It has just the right amount of flexibility in lighting levels without the user requiring a PhD in electronics, honestly I can't find anything bad to say about it. I can't think of any other light at this point that I would rather EDC. And for me the fins are not too sharp edged. 




FliGuyRyan said:


> olrac,
> 
> Thank you for the explanation. I find some irony in the fact that you have a comparison shot between the Quark 123 and the ZL.
> 
> ...



P.S. The lockout is not a big deal, you can lock it back in one handed, but in truth I am pocket carrying it without locking it out and have not had any accidental turn on issues so far.


----------



## hazna (Jan 22, 2010)

all this talk about the SC30 really makes me wish they would bring out the AA version soon.


----------



## olrac (Jan 22, 2010)

StandardBattery said:


> This is one amazing light, feels like almost as big a break through as their headlamps were (are).



I absolutely agree!


----------



## olrac (Jan 22, 2010)

So what make a perfect light perfecter?



*Trits*















I had a 2x8 mm trit lying around and some RTV silicone...... so what the hey why not!


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## Tixx (Jan 22, 2010)

olrac said:


> P.S. The lockout is not a big deal, you can lock it back in one handed, but in truth I am pocket carrying it without locking it out and have not had any accidental turn on issues so far.



It will happen and boy oh boy is that sucker HOT!


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## olrac (Jan 22, 2010)

Tixx said:


> It will happen and boy oh boy is that sucker HOT!




sniff, sniff, do I smell hot dogs grillin?


----------



## Tixx (Jan 22, 2010)

olrac said:


> sniff, sniff, do I smell hot dogs grillin?




Ha!


----------



## kaichu dento (Jan 22, 2010)

hazna said:


> all this talk about the SC30 really makes me wish they would bring out the AA version soon.


You're the only one! NOT!!! 

Every time I read something positive about these I wonder for about a second why I haven't ordered one yet, and then I remember... finally neutral tint is available, but still no AA format...


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## strinq (Jan 23, 2010)

olrac said:


> sniff, sniff, do I smell hot dogs grillin?




:green: happens before the smell...
Nice trits olrac! trits and rac...
Nice trits on that olrac... 
Sorry...couldn't help it...


----------



## davidt1 (Jan 23, 2010)

Being a little longer (hopefully not a lot longer), the AA version might be even easier to hold and operate. Zebralight needs to come out with XP-G that can go to 200 lm OTF.


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## Tixx (Jan 23, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Being a little longer (hopefully not a lot longer), the AA version might be even easier to hold and operate. Zebralight needs to come out with XP-G that can go to 200 lm OTF.



I'm afraid that it might be over 3.25". Too long for pocket carry for me. Yeah, 200lm OTF seems quite reasonable benchmark to reach for the small lights at this point.


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## Lagerregal (Jan 23, 2010)

Has anyone yet measured the driving current on max and min level?


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## Tixx (Jan 24, 2010)

Neutrals expected tomorrow.


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## mega_lumens (Jan 24, 2010)

uplite said:


> Actually...scratch that. I want a dual-emitter version of the H501 that has one optic for 80º flood, and one optic for 7º spot (or the tightest spot possible, if 7º is not do-able). Like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


OMG for a second I thought you were giving details of an actual new Zebralight and I was about to jump!! A dual LED, dedicated throw/flood headlight like this will steal the market from other companies. The throw would have to throw well which can be a challenge to achieve in such a small light. I'd want the flood option to come in either regular white or red colors. 

Can anyone make a youtube demo of their SC30 showing the feature functions, size, beam?


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## uplite (Jan 24, 2010)

mega_lumens said:


> OMG for a second I thought you were giving details of an actual new Zebralight and I was about to jump!! A dual LED, dedicated throw/flood headlight like this will steal the market from other companies. The throw would have to throw well which can be a challenge to achieve in such a small light.


Hehe. 

Actually...I'm surprised that only 2 guys here (besides me) want a real thow+flood headlamp. Not some lame excuse for a headlamp that uses a diffuser for "flood".

Like you, I am VERY curious how much throw we can get out of a light this size. I think a dual-emitter light would give MORE throw, because the "throw" emitter would be set farther back in the body, taking advantage of the heatsink from the "flood" emitter.

Anyone else here want a flood + throw headlamp that actually provides decent flood and decent throw? 

-Jeff


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## Blindasabat (Jan 25, 2010)

What you want is quite doable with a 'lame' diffuser. I'm quite surprised you want two entirely separate emitters over a properly designed and implemented diffuser. I would not want a dual emitter HL. It would add a lot of size as well as almost double the cost and complexity. The simple UI's - out the window with two emitters. Weight also added to sink two emitters. I use simple diffusers on many lights. They should just make a throw only setup - then you add what diffuser you want. Problem is, they add diffusers as an afterthought 99% of the time and it adds too much size and is hard to use. The Energizer 1AA had a good setup for what it was, but it had it in ADDITION to multiple emitters, so it had no white low. Too big of a compromise. If they'd made it a single emitter with low, med, high and the slide over diffuser, then it would have been a great HL. Too many emitters killed it.


uplite said:


> ...I'm surprised that only 2 guys here (besides me) want a real thow+flood headlamp. Not some lame excuse for a headlamp that uses a diffuser for "flood".
> 
> I think a dual-emitter light would give MORE throw, because the "throw" emitter would be set farther back in the body, taking advantage of the heatsink from the "flood" emitter.
> 
> Anyone else here want a flood + throw headlamp that actually provides decent flood and decent throw?


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## uplite (Jan 25, 2010)

Blindasabat said:


> What you want is quite doable with a 'lame' diffuser.


Really?

If you can make a nice even 80º flood with a simple diffuser, then why didn't zebralight use that cheap & easy design? :thinking: 

Instead, the H501 has a (custom designed? :shrug LENS that fits over & around the emitter to create a smooth flood.

IANA optical engineer, but I'm fairly sure you need 2 different optics for flood & throw. Or a bulky adjustable optic like the Led Lenser lights. Or a "diffuser" that kills most of the lumens, and defeats the purpose of a high-output LED.

Do you know how to make a crisp 80º flood without a lens, and without wasting most of the light?

-Jeff


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## Shorty66 (Jan 25, 2010)

80 degrees might be a challenge but i doubt its impossible. A nice and even 60 degrees flood is very doable with a diffuser though.
I would opt for the built in slide-away-diffuser on the h51. Its the best of both worlds: Flood and throw in a small case.


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## olrac (Jan 25, 2010)

Neutrals pushed back til tomorrow (26th)


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## Tixx (Jan 25, 2010)

Pre-order. Estimated shipping date: Jan 29, 2010. Our incoming shipment of SC30w has been delayed due to extra 'security checks'.


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## olrac (Jan 25, 2010)

Can't keep up with announcements! I still have my SC30 to keep me happy until the SC30w arrives.


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## Blindasabat (Jan 25, 2010)

"...kills MOST of the lumens..." Diffusers aren't THAT bad. 
The F04 (or any number of similar diffusers offered by many manufactureres) gives a wide, smooth, artifact free beam. Do they lose some light? Yes. Are they useful? Yes. 
*<edit in light of uplight's pictures below:> It appears the optics may be TIR, but still a little hard to tell since I can not see the inside surface. BUT I will definitely give ZL the benefot of the doubt and assuem they have capture all the light with the very close fitting optic <end edit>*
Any optic lens that is not a true TIR loses light emitted to the side that does not hit the lens to be projected forward. Lenses like aspherics and other lenses in front of the LED suffer from this. Unless the 'lens' is actually a TIR optic that extends down and fully surrounds the LED to capture 100% of the light emitted, then it is not any more efficient than a TIR or reflector with an added heavy diffuser. *<edit> It eliminates the ring reflections, but I do not know how. Do they dump them to the outside of the lens area so they are not projected forward? <end edit>*
Does the ZL beam look nice for a flood? Yes. Does the lens (and light) itself look high tech and high quality with a trick looking lens? Yes. I think that look had something, if not a lot to do with why it is designed this way. ZL didn't want to compete against the established PT, DB, Ever-ready, Dorcy, RiverRocks, and RoVs of the world with the exact same product. That would have been a dead end business plan for a start-up. Instead they came out with a tiny, lightweight, high end looking HL with a totally different UI and beam.

Can I get an 80deg beam from a diffuser? Yes. Ever seen an F04 diffuser? But there are several considerations why ZL did what it did.
You wouldn't use a diffuser on top of a reflector or optic unless you wanted it removeable or twist/slide out of the way to use the reflector by itself. I would have done the same thing as ZL if the goal was solely a flood beam in a super compact light. They started with 90 deg beams *<edit> oops, 120 degree! </edit> *then tightened them up because it was so wide you had to run it on med and high all the time and low was useless unless you were looking at things at the tip of your nose. I know, I had an H50 the first month they came out. I sold it and bought an H30 with the revised narrower 80 deg lens and it is still too floody most of the time. I use it clipped low on my chest so I don't have to run it on high to walk around - or blind as many people with the light scattered so wide, then I need a hand held to supplement it - which luckily I enjoy... so that's given anyway. 
Diffusers, like hatchbacks get a bad "cheap" rap that is somwhat deserved. Well designed hatchbacks are just now being offered by the likes of even BMW. Now is the time for a higher quality throw+diffuser HL that does not use 3AAA. There is a PT HL that uses a 'decent' flip-up diffuser over a throw emitter, but has 3AAA, is plastic, and so looks much cheaper than the svelte, slim, & compact Zebralights.
Problem with a slider or flip up diffuser design is it requires the kind of complex shape usually only made with molded plastic since it requires some sort of grooves or hinge that is far more easily made in plastic molding and would be very complex and costly in machined AL. Cast AL would make it more easily than machining, but that also looks cheaper and requires high volume to amortize the mold tool costs. I recently paid $70k for just such a mold at work. It was for 500k pieces per year. I doubt ZL sells that many of each model.

Would the flood 'losses' (actually tested at less than 5-6% on FlashlightReviews.com with the F04) be worth it to have the option of throw when I need it? I think so. Would the light itself look as nice as the ZL system? Probably not. But it would cost a lot less and be smaller than a dual LED setup. And I think that is right down Zebralight's alley. I can't wait to see what they come up with.

I apologize for the long and possibly rambling post, I didn't have time to edit it down.


----------



## davidt1 (Jan 25, 2010)

Diffusers generally suck.


----------



## Painful Chafe (Jan 25, 2010)

olrac said:


> So what make a perfect light perfecter?


"Perfecter. I love it. 
I have to have one of these. I don't know if I can wait till the 18650 comes out, but I guess I'll have too. I need the runtime vs. the smaller size.


----------



## Blindasabat (Jan 25, 2010)

Based on ???? They have proven to be useful to a lot of users or they wouldn't be made by almost every flashlight maker. Like cheap flashlights, cheap diffusers may suck, but that is like driving a Yugo and concluding all cars suck. Or like saying all multi-emitter lights are junk based on showerhead multi-5mm LED lights.


davidt1 said:


> Diffusers generally suck.


----------



## Shorty66 (Jan 25, 2010)

Blindasabat said:


> ...Does the ZL optic? Yes. Any optic lens that is not a true TIR loses light emitted to the side that does not hit the lens to be projected forward...



I thought, thats the whole deal with the Zebralights: They use TIR optics which are placed directly on the chip to make the floody beam.
Am I wrong?

[edit]Tir optics capture all the light which is emitted from the LED. Thats all light emitted in 90x360 degree which is a half dome = "flat rearcurved front"
I think ZL actually produces TIR optics.
Plus, Zebralight started with 120degrees *nitpick* 

I agree though, that diffusers are great. They loose some light, thats right. But they also allow a light with flood AND throw in a tiny package.

A second die would not loose light but it would make the flashlight bigger.
Its always a compromise but i opt for the diffuser.


----------



## uplite (Jan 25, 2010)

Blindasabat said:


> Unless the 'lens' is actually a TIR optic that extends down and fully surrounds the LED to capture 100% of the light emitted, then it is not any more efficient than a TIR or reflector with an added heavy diffuser. I don't think the ZL has such an optic


Um..well...the ZL lens _does_ extend down and fully surround the LED.  Pictures:







Really...I don't care _how_ they do it. I just want 80º flood _and_ 7º spot, without wasting more lumens, in a SINGLE headlamp with all the zebralight strengths (high power, regulated, compact, ultralight, single cell, great UI, waterproof, etc). If zebralight could do this with a slide/rotate/flip diffuser - I would buy it!

However, I'm not at all convinced that this can be done with a hacked-on diffuser. Unless you redefine "diffuser" to mean "engineered lens that slips tightly over the emitter"...and then add a complicated, bulky mechanism to swap the spot and flood optics. I'm guessing this will end up being LARGER than a dual-emitter H501. A second emitter/optic would only add about 1cm length to the current H501. Width stays the same.

Also, a dual-emitter H501 would not cost much more to make. The 80º flood lens is already designed and manufactured. The second emitter costs less than US$5. The shoulders on the H501 body can be moved to keep the light centered in the silicone headlamp holder. Switch, driver, and heatsink are shared. Accessories are the same. The throw optic costs a bit more, but you will need that for a throw light regardless.

The UI is easy. Just make it a L-M-H sequence like the H501, plus double-click to switch between flood or spot. Very simple. A hidden programming mode to select more levels or defaults or blinky modes would be _nice_, but not necessary. The SC30 already dropped the strobe mode.

The only big question in my mind is how tight a spot beam you can make in this form factor. If the H51 spot headlamp is more than a rumor, it will answer that question. 7º would be awesome...but I don't know if you can fit the optics for that beam in this small a light.

Since this light would take the place of two typical lights (spot and flood), it is fair to charge much more for it. Personally I think $99 is reasonable. If zebralight could bring it down to $69 retail, I think they could totally dominate the headlamp market. Maybe even convert some of the handheld flashlight "collectors" here on CPF. 

The only downside I see is that it looks weird. The CPFers who collect flashlights purely based on appearance might not like it. Ah well. But those of us who USE our lights would love a good spot + flood design. :twothumbs

-Jeff


----------



## Blindasabat (Jan 25, 2010)

Good to know. I stand corrected. I will edit my post. ZL did an even better job than I thought. I still say a diffuser would be far better than a second emitter. Nice picture and entertaining concept, but not the best solution.


----------



## uplite (Jan 25, 2010)

Blindasabat said:


> I still say a diffuser would be far better than a second emitter.


You're entitled to your opinion. 

I'm more interested in real-world design & engineering constraints. On that front, it appears that a diffuser would be bulkier, more complex, more apt to break...and it would waste lumens. Much, much _worse_ than a second emitter. 

But if you or zebralight or someone else has a workable design for a compact, durable, efficient diffuser that can convert a tight spot to 80º flood, I would love to see it! 

fyi, I'm pretty sure that surefire does not make anything like that.  :laughing:

-Jeff


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## Blindasabat (Jan 25, 2010)

uplite said:


> However, I'm not at all convinced that this can be done with a hacked-on diffuser. Unless you redefine "diffuser" to mean "engineered lens that slips tightly over the emitter"...and then add a complicated, bulky mechanism to swap the spot and flood optics. I'm guessing this will end up being LARGER than a dual-emitter H501. A second emitter/optic would only add about 1cm length to the current H501. Width stays the same.


Why does the dual emitter get purpose built design and the diffuser is hacked on, bulky and complicated? It gets to be designed in from the start. It could be a tight fitting sleeve or part of a rotating bezel over the stationary reflector/optic. Neither add much size at all. The bezel design could add nearly no size at all. Maybe 2mm to the diameter of the head. This goes over the spot optics replacing the window that is already there in a slide/rotate action. One piece of glass, half of it etched.


uplite said:


> Also, a dual-emitter H501 would not cost much more to make.


You are forgetting more complicated assembly, machining, and electronics switching. Using the SC30 UI does not mean that it can control two emitters. That requires internal power switching not needed for electronic switch and single emitter lights like the ZL. Other multi-emitter lights are either mechanically switched (no room in the ZL) or have multiple boards. I think the cost would be higher than the far more simple H60 and end up similarly sized. The shoulder around the flood optic can not be moved and more room is needed for more electronics.


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## Blindasabat (Jan 25, 2010)

I like your double click UI idea to switch between emitters. :thumbsup: Very ZL-ish.


uplite said:


> Just make it a L-M-H sequence like the H501, plus double-click to switch between flood or spot. Very simple. A hidden programming mode to select more levels or defaults or blinky modes would be _nice_, but not necessary. The SC30 already dropped the strobe mode.


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## psychbeat (Jan 26, 2010)

I'd take a dual xp-g r5 ZL 
are the H61 or 51 or whatever out yet even?


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## Shorty66 (Jan 26, 2010)

I admit i like the double click emitter switch UI, too.
I could live with both versions, diffuser and dual emitter but i still think, that the loss in lumens of a good emitter isn`t that noticable and the more compact and lightweight design might be the reason to be able to EDC the light.

I usually have the h501 in a strap on my purse - a dual emitter version would be far too lang to be held in the same place.


----------



## uplite (Jan 26, 2010)

Blindasabat said:


> It eliminates the ring reflections, but I do not know how. Do they dump them to the outside of the lens area so they are not projected forward?


Interesting question. Actually the rings are projected, but due to the shape of the beam, we do not see them in normal use.

When I hold an H501 in my hand, just a few inches from a white wall, on High, I can see the rings. Move the light 1-2 feet from the wall, and the rings disappear. All that remains is an 80 flood with a nice tight boundary.

If you wear the H501 as a headlamp, you will never see the rings. Even if you stand 1 foot from a white wall. The rings are at the fringe of your vision, and the close-up intensity of the flood overpowers them.




Blindasabat said:


> Why does the dual emitter get purpose built design and the diffuser is hacked on, bulky and complicated?


If you hold an H501 in your hand, I think you will understand. 

These lights are _incredibly_ small and precisely engineered. Zero fat. The body tube is only 2.2 mm wider than the AA cell. The head--which contains the emitter, heatsink, driver, controller, lens, and switch--is just 18.9 mm across x 17.9 mm deep x 17.4 mm high.

How does that quote go? "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. It takes a touch of genius to move in the opposite direction." The Zebralight designers clearly have that touch of genius.

If you add grooves/detents/etc for a diffuser, plus the diffuser itself, the light will be much bulkier. I'm fairly sure it will be much larger than if you just stretched the head another 10-15mm for a second emitter. Try sketching out your design, and you'll see. A diffuser only looks like a small add-on when you add it to an already-bulky light.

Plus the diffuser _will_ lose much, perhaps even most, of the light to turn a tight spot into a broad flood. Not even a hyper-marketed surefire diffuser can avoid the laws of physics. 

Plus you would have moving parts on the outside of the light. Moving parts = bad. They collect dirt/lint/bumps/wear in normal use, and eventually stick or break.

I agree that a diffuser option would be better than nothing...but a dedicated flood emitter & optic would be _much_ better. 




Blindasabat said:


> You are forgetting more complicated assembly, machining, and electronics switching. Using the SC30 UI does not mean that it can control two emitters. That requires internal power switching not needed for electronic switch and single emitter lights like the ZL.


Assembly will be more complicated, but not by much. How do you think the H501 is assembled? I dunno, but it looks like the workers stick a "pill" into the head, and then glue the lens on from the outside. With a dual emitter, they would have a larger pill (but still just one pill) and _two_ optics to glue.

Testing/QA would also be more complicated, since there are two emitters to test in each light. But again, not a big deal. A tiny cost compared to the larger price of the light.

Machining is not a real issue IMO. The fine details (heatsink fins, grooves, beveling, etc) are what really determine the milling complexity. And anyway, it's just more milling. Set up the tools, add stock, and let it rip. If it takes more time and tooling, charge a bit more. But ultimately the higher price will come from _market_ factors, not manufacturing costs.

Electronics...yes, you need internal power switching. A typical 3-watt mosfet is about 5mm x 5mm x 1mm...just a tiny chip compared to the size of the existing controller and driver. But yeah, you do need to add this switching to the board, and take a line off the controller to implement it. I might be wrong, but it looks like zebralight has custom-made drivers, not off-the-shelf stuff like many of the lights on this forum. So if they want to add emitter switching to the boards, I'm guessing they can do it. Size is not a "big" issue. 

Just to be clear...I don't want to offend or fight anyone here. I just really want this light. So I want to explore the details...and see if we can convince zebralight to make it. :wave: 

-Jeff


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## Shorty66 (Jan 26, 2010)

uplite said:


> ...
> 
> How does that quote go? "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. It takes a touch of genius to move in the opposite direction." The Zebralight designers clearly have that touch of genius.
> 
> If you add grooves/detents/etc for a diffuser, plus the diffuser itself, the light will be much bulkier. I'm fairly sure it will be much larger than if you just stretched the head another 10-15mm for a second emitter. Try sketching out your design, and you'll see. A diffuser only looks like a small add-on when you add it to an already-bulky light....



Did you notice, that you just gave the perfect example to your quote?
A diffuser would add 1 to 2mm to the diameter of the head. No grooves, detents etc needed. Just use a small screw as hinge.

Compare that to 10-15mm added lenght and you might notice which design is the "bigger, more complex" one.

I just made up a comparison pic:


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## Beacon of Light (Jan 26, 2010)

olrac said:


> L1 = Low Low
> L2 = Low
> L3 = Low Medium
> L4 = Medium
> ...



If I had my way I'd set it to L1 L2 L3. Pretty much is how I have my Jetbeam Jet I-Pro IBS and my LiteFlux LF2XT set like that. Have not much use for the L4-L6. Do we know yet if there is a moon mode on any of the AA versions or the H501/H50?


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## Blindasabat (Jan 26, 2010)

Nice example Shorty66. I imagine (yes, I have designed it in my head - I'm very visual, I taught college engineering graphics and CAD for three years) a simpler more robust rotating bezel over the head. No exterior slots, the whole exterior of the head rotates over the reflector which is mounted on the body. It has one long window with half of it clear, half diffuse.
Have I held a ZL? I have held DaFabricata's reflector modded H30 XP-E! The very same thing in reality that is only photoshopped below. It was begging for a lens treatment. Maybe next time I visit him for a mad mod session I can take a sliding diffuser to try. Hmmm, where's MY H30 to caliper up the head for some dimensions....


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## Owen (Jan 26, 2010)

Changed my mind...any extra moving part is bad, IMO.


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## uplite (Jan 27, 2010)

Shorty66 said:


> I just made up a comparison pic:


:twothumbs

Heck yeah!!! Thank you Shorty66, for mocking that up. A picture is worth...you know. 

BUT you skipped the complex part. :devil:

Now you have to design a 1-2mm "diffuser plate" to turn a moderate 8º spot beam into an even, tight 80º zebralight flood beam.

Bonus points if you can design a "diffuser" that kills less than 25% of the lumens. Even more bonus points if the diffuser can be manufactured for less than $10 per light (with, let's say, 10k units?).

If you need a free optical modeling software package, ZEMAX and OSLO both provide evaluation/education versions. I'm fairly new to optical design, so I don't know what the pros are using right now. Those packages seem more than sufficient for a microlensed diffuser design though.

If zebralight produces this "diffuser", I will :bow: down...and probably buy a bunch of these lights for friends & family. 

In the meantime...we already know that a dual-emitter would provide the clear & efficient flood beam that zebralights are known for. They already did it with the lens on the current headlamps, right? :thumbsup:

-Jeff


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## Shorty66 (Jan 27, 2010)

I dont really know how much loss such a diffuser has. I just made that one up as i think that its the easiest way for me to mod:
I'd just use one of the diffusers which are already avaible - no optical design part on my side.
I have some Petzl Tikka xp diffusers lying around here. I dont know how much loss they have but just putting them in front of my Flashlights shows me that i can live with that loss easily: Its noticeable but doesnt bother at all.
After all high power is more often needed in throw mode...

So my plan was to just attach that tikka xp diffuser to the h51. That mod should take about an hour to finish and such plastic diffusers cost right about nothing.


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## davidt1 (Jan 27, 2010)

Some of the ideas sound very familiar. I added this red filter to my H501 months ago (pictures posted also). I thought about making it a rotating thing but never did. For now I just keep the red part with the head band and attach it to the light when I need to use it as a signal/be seen light.

It's kept on the head band and ready to be used at any time.





In use as a be-seen light. A diffuser can be made in the same fashion but would have to be a rotating type for convenience.


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## Blindasabat (Jan 27, 2010)

Jeff, now I know why you don't like diffusers! You think they reduce lumens by over 25%!  Decent ones only reduce lumens by about 8%. Look at the review the legendary Doug did of the on the Heliotek HTE-1 on his old site (now operated with lots of editing errors by somebody else) www.flashlightreviews.com. He was one of the first to do lumens and throw measurements many years ago. He measured an 8% lumen drop with the built-in diffuser flipped on. 
Then see www.*light*-*reviews*.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=10 for a thread on FASTCAR's diffuser film. Regarded as good efficient stuff by many with no perceptible light loss in ceiling bounce tests. I believe there is some loss, but two members say it has 100% light transmission. One said "as good as the SF F04" (which is also less than 10%). There was a long thread on it a couple of years ago.


uplite said:


> Now you have to design a 1-2mm "diffuser plate" to turn a moderate 8º spot beam into an even, tight 80º zebralight flood beam.
> 
> Bonus points if you can design a "diffuser" that kills less than 25% of the lumens. Even more bonus points if the diffuser can be manufactured for less than $10 per light (with, let's say, 10k units?).


The plate itself is easy with diffuser film. If I had the mad photoshopping skills some of you guys do, I'd scale up the head by 2mm diameter, then add a window on two sides (about 75deg diffused, 75deg clear) for a 75deg rotation to fully transfer from throw to flood windows. Net result is 
1) make the current body-head machining slightly smaller in the head area with less class-A surface to worry about, 
2) add a separate machined and anodized head with window 
3) add o-ring(s) for sealing, retention in grooves, and slip friction. If o-rings are not good enough for retention, the old bolt-on switch bezel can be used - that seemed to have no impact on cost. I'd actually prefer the screw-on switch bezel for positive retention.
Stops inside the head only allow it to to rotate the 75 degrees needed. Lots of bonus points! At 10k, I estimate $6 cost.


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## Shorty66 (Jan 27, 2010)

yaeh, i too did a rotating asph. lens attachment to my h60.
This makes sense if the head of the lamp is quit round (like on the h60) but it doesnt if the haed is flatted like on the h501. You would have to grind the light down to be able to rotate the diffuser on the axis of the lite.
If the light would be round, nothing stops it from rolling away on angled surfaces as seen on the h60.
Im eager to try my idea out.

@ David: you use 15x2mm magnets there? Wouldn`t one magnet be sufficient?

I made a little mod to my H501 yesterday with magnets on the inside of the battery tube. I just took out the spring and replaced it by two 10x1mm magnets. Those are not quite strong enough to hold the light horizontally but its enough for hanging.
Just ordered a 15x2mm magnet to replace those 10x1mm`s...


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## Tixx (Jan 27, 2010)

Give me a CR2 version of this please!


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## Blindasabat (Jan 27, 2010)

I'd buy that! Make sure it is RCR2 compatible of course. IIRC we asked for a a CR2 version when the original H50 came out, but ZL said no.


Tixx said:


> Give me a CR2 version of this please!


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## davidt1 (Jan 27, 2010)

Shorty66,

Two magnets are necessary to attach the light to non-metallic surfaces such as these:


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## Owen (Jan 27, 2010)

Order confirmation just now for the SC30w. 
Not _shipping_ confirmation, just that it has gone from preorder to, well, whatever comes after that. 
Won't be long now


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## Beacon of Light (Jan 27, 2010)

Blindasabat said:


> I'd buy that! Make sure it is RCR2 compatible of course. We asked for a a CR2 version when the original H50 came out, but ZL said no.



I thought CR2=RCR2 with the only exception that RCR2 is the rechargeable version?


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## HKJ (Jan 27, 2010)

Beacon of Light said:


> I thought CR2=RCR2 with the only exception that RCR2 is the rechargeable version?



LiIon has higher voltage.


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## Xak (Jan 28, 2010)

Yeah, pretty sure CR2 is 3.0v and RCR2 is 3.7v. 

Anyone know where to find protected RCR2s? I checked http://www.lighthound.com/ but they only have unprotected. 

Does it even matter? How much more dependable are protected as far as getting damaged? How do you know if you have a damaged cell?


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## hazna (Jan 28, 2010)

I believe there are no protected RCR2 cells, as they were to small to fit the protection circuit in. The same was said of 10440 cells, however they now do come in a protected version.


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## Tixx (Jan 28, 2010)

Looks like neutrals are shipping now


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## Shorty66 (Jan 28, 2010)

@davidt1 Thanks for the pics and explanation.


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## olrac (Jan 28, 2010)

hazna said:


> I believe there are no protected RCR2 cells, as they were to small to fit the protection circuit in. The same was said of 10440 cells, however they now do come in a protected version.



Actually AW used to produce protected RCR2 batteries a few years back, can't remember why they are no longer being made. There are protected 14500 so there should not be any issue of being to small (diameter) to fit. I think is is an economic issue of having to produce so many and not having enough of a demand for them.


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## olrac (Jan 28, 2010)

Tixx said:


> Looks like neutrals are shipping now


 Yup, I got my shipping notice. :thumbsup:


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## Tixx (Jan 29, 2010)

olrac said:


> Yup, I got my shipping notice. :thumbsup:


 
Neutral is delivered at my house now. Have to wait to check it out!


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## olrac (Jan 29, 2010)

I'm playing with mine right now. first impression is I like it a lot great neutral tint.

SC30W on the left and SC30 on the right both on high/high





SC30W on the left and Ti mini123 neutral on the right again both on highest setting.





I can't see any real difference in the higher setting between the cool and neutral versions but the low is definitely a bit lower, could be the tint is deceiving me.
Have to wait til tonight to try them oudoors. both are great little lights
Also the low-low on the SC30W is way lower than the mini low
I would have to give the edge to the mini for a slightly better tint but this is a personal preference and YMMV


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## olrac (Jan 29, 2010)

Have a few Protected RCR2's lying around and some powerful disk magnets and voila! Zebraworklight!


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## StandardBattery (Jan 29, 2010)

Nice! My SC30 is still wowing the few people at work I show it to. 

Just got a Sundrop though, so I might pass on the warmer tint version. I'll probably wait until it's available in AA now. Not sure I can resist. I do find the regular version has a very nice white tint.

Not to be a broken record but... this *REALLY *is a great light.


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## davidt1 (Jan 29, 2010)

Nice work there, olrac!

The magnet works even better with ZL angle lights with 80 degree flood.


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## Tixx (Jan 29, 2010)

These are really cool. Just got home to try out the warm tint and it is really nice.


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## olrac (Jan 30, 2010)

nevermind


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## davidt1 (Jan 31, 2010)

StandardBattery said:


> Nice! My SC30 is still wowing the few people at work I show it to.
> 
> Just got a Sundrop though, so I might pass on the warmer tint version. I'll probably wait until it's available in AA now. Not sure I can resist. I do find the regular version has a very nice white tint.
> 
> Not to be a broken record but... this *REALLY *is a great light.



Still waiting for the AA version, but I am tempted to get this one as the short length is ideal for my hand-free use of flashlights. Right now I use my Maratac AAA as a hand-free light when I don't want to use the H501. Surprisingly I am able to change modes on this light with one hand. The side switch of the SC30 would make the job even easier though. 

Have to resist the temptation.


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## TooManyGizmos (Feb 6, 2010)

ZEBRALIGHT ... I tried to send you this by PM... but your PM box is FULL.

ZebraLight Co ,
I hope you are going to make sure your NEW flashlights will allow the use of PROtected 18650 batteries ... which are a little bit longer than UNprotected.

I can't wait for mine . I hope it won't be much longer .

Thanks for making those . You should have a lot of sales .
.


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## wapkil (Feb 6, 2010)

Have you noticed that the SC50s (AA) are up for preorder?


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## qtaco (Feb 6, 2010)

Well spotted! I also came across the S5200, an XP-G, 2xAA (in a parallel/side-by-side arrangement!), prototype flashlight: http://www.zebralight.com/S5200-Flashlight-2AA-_p_26.html


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## wapkil (Feb 6, 2010)

qtaco said:


> Well spotted! I also came across the S5200, an XP-G, 2xAA (in a parallel/side-by-side arrangement!), prototype flashlight: http://www.zebralight.com/S5200-Flashlight-2AA-_p_26.html



Interesting find. I think no one previously mentioned that such a light is in the works. I'm not sure what are the advantages of this format but Zebralight once again surprised me with their light construction  

It is intriguing that the light is offered with a silicon cover (I believe the yellow part on the pictures). I wonder what it is for. Higher level of water resistance? maybe also to make it more shock-proof?


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## qtaco (Feb 6, 2010)

2xAA lights are typically long and thin, but in a side-by-side arrangement it is a more balanced shape, in my opinion.

The silicon cover could just be for improved grip, a bit like the silicon covers Nintendo makes for the wii remotes. The prototype has a lot of smooth, relatively flat, surfaces; not the greatest grip-wise.


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## parnass (Feb 6, 2010)

qtaco said:


> Well spotted! I also came across the S5200, an XP-G, 2xAA (in a parallel/side-by-side arrangement!), prototype flashlight: http://www.zebralight.com/S5200-Flashlight-2AA-_p_26.html



Notice the raised portion surrounding the pushbutton switch to avoid accidental activation. :thumbsup:


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## Tixx (Feb 6, 2010)

wapkil said:


> Have you noticed that the SC50s (AA) are up for preorder?



Surprised they add .55" in length and no width reduction. Can't have the same runtimes either and would be surprised if the output was actually the same. Nice if you really like AA's though.


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## wapkil (Feb 6, 2010)

Tixx said:


> Surprised they add .55" in length and no width reduction. Can't have the same runtimes either and would be surprised if the output was actually the same. Nice if you really like AA's though.



I'm wondering whether this is the final version of this page - the lack of runtimes is surprising. I think the runtimes may be comparable. Generally the amount of energy held by a lithium primary AA is comparable to a CR123 and a rechargable NiMH holds more energy than an RCR123. AAs are much harder though for the circuit so we'll see how well this one is engineered.

BTW, there is also the new H31 there (a H30 with reflector, XP-G, and the new UI)


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## one2tim (Feb 6, 2010)

hmm no rubber clicp included for H31 like there was with the old H30, thats abit disapointing but else looking gooood still miss a H30w though


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## Tixx (Feb 6, 2010)

wapkil said:


> BTW, there is also the new H31 there (a H30 with reflector, XP-G, and the new UI)



Very cool. Not up for sale yet, but can't wait. Don't see a keychain type clip on this one though like the H30.


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## davidt1 (Feb 6, 2010)

wapkil said:


> Have you noticed that the SC50s (AA) are up for preorder?



Very nice! The 3.15'' length is not long at all for a single AA light. 193Lm from an AA battery is pretty amazing. I notice that there are no fins where the clip presses against the head. 

I don't care for the "*** end is sticking out" clip arrangement though. I have a difficult decision to make. Would I not buy this otherwise great light because it doesn't have a deep clip for discreet pocket carry?

And of course, they totally ignored my suggestion for the H501R UI.


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## Zendude (Feb 6, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Very nice! The 3.15'' length is not long at all. 193Lm from an AA battery is pretty amazing. I notice that there are no fins where the clip presses against the head.
> 
> I don't care for the "*** end is sticking out" clip though. I have a difficult decision to make. Would I not buy this otherwise great light because it doesn't have a deep clip for discreet pocket carry?
> 
> And of course, they totally ignored my suggestion for the H501R UI.



Is it even possible to get 193lm from a 1.5v source? I thought that was with the 14500 only.:thinking:


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## wapkil (Feb 6, 2010)

Zendude said:


> Is it even possible to get 193lm from a 1.5v source? I thought that was with the 14500 only.:thinking:



Not with a 1.5V (alkaline) but with a good NiMH - why not? For 200lm the LED needs around 2.5W (probably a bit less, it's not that important) an Eneloop or a Sanyo 2700 that they used in the tests won't have any problems supplying much more.

EDIT: They write that "When using 14500s, H2 is a 2Hz flashing. When using 1.5V batteries, H1 is a 2Hz flashing." It's not completly clear for me what it means but it may be that the highest mode for non-LiIons is 122lm...


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## wapkil (Feb 6, 2010)

qtaco said:


> 2xAA lights are typically long and thin, but in a side-by-side arrangement it is a more balanced shape, in my opinion.
> 
> The silicon cover could just be for improved grip, a bit like the silicon covers Nintendo makes for the wii remotes. The prototype has a lot of smooth, relatively flat, surfaces; not the greatest grip-wise.



:thinking: strange, I remember answering this post, but I can't see my answer. Maybe I didn't hit the send button? :shrug:

The image is just a visualization so the real surface may not be smooth but the silicon cover should help with the grip anyway. When talking about the parallel format advantages I meant how it compares to 1xAA. Obviously it will work longer (or be brighter, or both), the circuit efficiency should also be better. We'll see.


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## Shorty66 (Feb 6, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> ...
> 
> And of course, they totally ignored my suggestion for the H501R UI.



Did they?
They have hidden strobe modes and a moon mode.
Okay, the h501r has to strobe modes while the sc50 only has one 2hz strobe mode but that seems totally okay to me.

If i understood the website correctly the sc50 has the following modes:
with 14500:
H1 195lm H2 2hz Strobe
M1 38lm M2 21lm
L1 5lm L2 0,7lm

With AA:
H1 122lm H2 2hz Strobe
M1 38lm M2 21lm
L1 5lm L2 0,7lm

That means strobe and moon mode on the sc50 for both battery types.
Im somewhat disappointed though, that the two medium levels are so close to each other. I would rather like to have the option of a second strobe mode as the option to choose between 38 and 21lm doesnt seem to be that useful.


Th H31 looks really nice though. I like the GITD silicon ring at the tailcap which aliminates the need for exchangable silicon buttons.
I hope the description is incorrect though - no strobe modes? Seems odd.

I really like that part though:


zebralight said:


> Bezel down clip (pre-installed)
> Can be used as a headlamp with the included headband (clip can remain installed when the light is on the headband)


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## davidt1 (Feb 6, 2010)

The click switch on the H31 is deeply seated which allows for head standing. Hopefully the H51 will be like that as well. It's a minor thing for sure and would escape the mind of most, but it's something picky people like me would appreciate.

Assuming the H31 has the same throw as the SC30, the angled beam would make it a more useful light all around. It is with this thinking that I might skip the SC50 and wait for the H51 instead.


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## WebWalker (Feb 6, 2010)

"With AA:
H1 122lm H2 2hz Strobe
M1 38lm M2 21lm
L1 5lm L2 0,7lm"

but the site says - " When using 1.5V batteries, H1 is a 2Hz flashing. So is it
H1 hz strobe H2 122lm?

So a AA can't go high H1? Is that an engineering issue?

And who wants stobe/flash?


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## hazna (Feb 6, 2010)

hmmm... I wonder if they're going to include R5's in these lights?


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## tygger (Feb 6, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Assuming the H31 has the same throw as the SC30, the angled beam would make it a more useful light all around. It is with this thinking that I might skip the SC50 and wait for the H51 instead.



Same here. Can't wait for the H51.


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## TooManyGizmos (Feb 6, 2010)

hazna said:


> hmmm... I wonder if they're going to include R5's in these lights?



Hmmm .... I think they ARE ......... (edit: ..NOT )

You were correct .... This is what they say is in use :

LED: Cree XP-E Cool White (color temperature 5700-6350 K) 

.


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## defloyd77 (Feb 7, 2010)

qtaco said:


> Well spotted! I also came across the S5200, an XP-G, 2xAA (in a parallel/side-by-side arrangement!), prototype flashlight: http://www.zebralight.com/S5200-Flashlight-2AA-_p_26.html



Very interesting light, I wonder if it's a no hotspot type beam?


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## Blindasabat (Feb 7, 2010)

The H31 looks very nice. Please make an H31W once neutral XP-Gs are available. I'm still considering the SC30W and the expected SC50W, but the H31W has no competition - I would HAVE to buy one. It would be my ultimate headlight.


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## Shorty66 (Feb 7, 2010)

WebWalker said:


> "With AA:
> 
> 
> but the site says - " When using 1.5V batteries, H1 is a 2Hz flashing. So is it
> ...



Yeah, i noticed that too. I think its meant like that:
*H1 2hz Strobe H2 122lm*
M1 38lm M2 21lm
L1 5lm L2 0,7lm"

So the h1 is replaced by a 2hz strobe with AAs while with 14500s the H2 is replaced. As the light memorizes its set levels that doesnt make any difference.

Its an issue with the driver: H1 needs a high voltage the driver isnt able to deliver with AAs.


The H31w would be the ultimate Headlight if it had a preinstalled diffuser ...


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## ZebraLight (Feb 7, 2010)

TooManyGizmos said:


> ZEBRALIGHT ... I tried to send you this by PM... but your PM box is FULL.
> 
> ZebraLight Co ,
> I hope you are going to make sure your NEW flashlights will allow the use of PROtected 18650 batteries ... which are a little bit longer than UNprotected.
> ...


 
The H60, revised several months ago, can take protected 18650s.


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## TooManyGizmos (Feb 7, 2010)

Thank you , then I'm sure the NEW SC60 will do the same.

Can you say what emitter the SC60 will have ?
.


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## ZebraLight (Feb 7, 2010)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Thank you , then I'm sure the NEW SC60 will do the same.
> 
> Can you say what emitter the SC60 will have ?
> .


 
XP-G


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## __philippe (Feb 7, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> I notice that there are no fins where the clip presses against the head.


 
Nicely observed, Davidt1...

(flat area under SC50's clip end)

http://www.zebralight.com/zoomify.asp?catalogid=24&img=assets/images/SC50back.jpg

Hoping this feature will be carried over to the SC30 production as well;
that should put to rest the "pocket shredder" moanings....:thumbsup:

Cheers,

__philiippe


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## Zeruel (Feb 7, 2010)

ZebraLight said:


> The H60, revised several months ago, can take protected 18650s.



Hope that goes for SC50 too. It's a very tight fit for H501 when I use 14500 in it. :duh2:


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## jonesy (Feb 7, 2010)

Blindasabat said:


> The H31 looks very nice. Please make an H31W once neutral XP-Gs are available. I'm still considering the SC30W and the expected SC50W, but the H31W has no competition - I would HAVE to buy one. It would be my ultimate headlight.



A big +1 to that! I carry my H30 every day on my keychain, but I'd love a neutral tint version with a bit more power. The cool beam doesn't makes it harder to see things when camping, at least with my eyes. Let's hope they make it!


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## davidt1 (Feb 7, 2010)

I did not see that the 193lm rating was for 14500 battery. 122lm for the 2700mh Sanyo isn't bad but not spectacular. Hopefully we will see more lumens and/or better run times with XP-G emitters. 

Thanks to Shorty66 for pointing out that the new UI has a strobe mode and a moon mode. I think I will like this UI just fine. There are times I wish the medium on my H501 would be a little brighter. This new UI give users 2 levels of low/medium to choose from. How cool is that! It's all good man.


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## WebWalker (Feb 7, 2010)

Zebralight

I’m new to this hobby. I bought the sc30 and am delighted with it. One of the best UIs I’ve encountered so far, enhanced by the fact it can all be handled one-handed.

I’m also impressed that you use a sphere and publish OTF lumens for your products. I use the sc30 as my benchmark to compare other lights output.

I’ve been waiting for the SC50. There is some discrepancy in wording thought that you could clear up for me please.

For the H501R you say – “Light _outputs and runtimes_ are measured using Sanyo 2700 mAh NiMH batteries. Light outputs are out the front values.” Perfect

For the SC30 you say – “Light output are out the front (OTF) values. _Runtime_ tests are done using Panasonic CR123A lithium batteries. Runtimes are usually much shorter with rechargeable RCR123 (16340) batteries, especially with protected 16340s that have higher discharge cut off voltage.”
Is the published light output measured using the CR123A or 16340? Is there a difference in OTF between them? If so what is it?

For the SC50 you say – “Light output are Out The Front (OTF) values. Runtime tests are doen (sic) using Sanyo 2700mAh NiMH batteries. Runtimes are usually much shorter with Li-ion 14500 batteries, especially in the H1 level.” 
Is the published light output measured using the NiMH or 14400? Is there a difference in OTF between them? If so what is it.

Thanks in advance

Ps
I’m not a fan of flash/strobe and would have preferred the SC30 interface, providing more lighting options.


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## blub (Feb 7, 2010)

The H31 looks nice and only about 1/2" longer than the H30. Dang it, just when I thought I didn't need any more lights.


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## uplite (Feb 7, 2010)

SC50 looks great! Apparently Zebralight is really listening here, since they gave this light a li-ion power "bragging mode", a smooth surface under the clip, and a 2 hz blinky mode. :thumbsup:

Zebralight...any runtimes? ETA/outputs for SC50w? :candle:

The side-by-side 2AA prototype is also a great idea. Many years ago I had some cheapo incandescent lights in this shape. They probably only did 5-10 lumens on fresh AAs, but they fit my hand and pocket perfectly. I bet the silicone cover on this prototype could also be used to hold a diffuser. 

The H31 looks OK...but I'm not gonna carry & swap 2 headlamps when I go on the trail. If Zebralight made a dual-emitter headlamp with flood + throw, I'd buy it in an eyeblink. Hopefully with XP-E emitters, _not_ XP-G. 

-Jeff


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## kiwicrunch (Feb 7, 2010)

qtaco said:


> Well spotted! I also came across the S5200, an XP-G, 2xAA (in a parallel/side-by-side arrangement!), prototype flashlight: http://www.zebralight.com/S5200-Flashlight-2AA-_p_26.html




Based on the CAD drawing it looks like zebralight is once again trying something different with the S5200. 

If the result is anything close to what they've achieved with their headlamps, I think they're really nailing a position as one of the most innovative companies in this industry. I've been using it for almost a year, but to me the H501w continues to be a revelation of what lighting could be.

Does anyone have any more info on it than what's on the site? Runtimes, output, beam characteristics?


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## tygger (Feb 7, 2010)

uplite said:


> The H31 looks OK...but I'm not gonna carry & swap 2 headlamps when I go on the trail. If Zebralight made a dual-emitter headlamp with flood + throw, I'd buy it in an eyeblink. Hopefully with XP-E emitters, _not_ XP-G.
> 
> -Jeff



From the images it looks to be a shallow reflector which should give a very nice, floody spot. At least I hope so.


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## ZebraLight (Feb 7, 2010)

WebWalker said:


> Zebralight
> 
> I’m new to this hobby. I bought the sc30 and am delighted with it. One of the best UIs I’ve encountered so far, enhanced by the fact it can all be handled one-handed.
> 
> ...


 
There is no difference in the OTF output between the CR123A and 16340, or between the NiMH and 14500. 

With AA sources, the SC50 can only go as high as 122lm, the other selection is of no use if you 'double click'. On the other hand, for those who prefer 14500s for the max output, the 122lm selection will probably not be used that much. Might as well have a strobe there.


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## AardvarkSagus (Feb 7, 2010)

Wow. 2xAA parallel looks fantastic. I've been waiting for more companies to try that one out.


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## TooManyGizmos (Feb 7, 2010)

ZebraLight said:


> There is no difference in the OTF output between the CR123A and 16340, or between the NiMH and 14500.
> 
> With AA sources, the SC50 can only go as high as 122lm, the other selection is of no use if you 'double click'. On the other hand, for those who prefer 14500s for the max output, the 122lm selection will probably not be used that much. Might as well have a strobe there.



So ... you're saying that using 14500's will NOT make this light brighter. (like it does in most other lights)

So what would be a benefit or need to use 14500's ?

It seems optimized for Alkalines.

I was hoping 14500's would make it MUCH brighter ... as were probably most everyone else.
.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Feb 8, 2010)

oh man! I love the S5200. I am very anxious to know the spec.


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## bansuri (Feb 8, 2010)

TooManyGizmos said:


> So ... you're saying that using 14500's will NOT make this light brighter. (like it does in most other lights)
> 
> So what would be a benefit or need to use 14500's ?
> 
> ...




copied from the SC50 website:

Light Output  

 High: H1 *193* Lm (2.5 hrs) H2 *122* Lm ( hrs)
 Medium: M1 *38* Lm (11.5 hrs) M2 *21* Lm (21.4 hrs) 
 Low: L1 *5* Lm (4 days) L2 *0.7* Lm (22 days) 
Light output are Out The Front (OTF) values. Runtime tests are doen using Sanyo 2700mAh NiMH batteries. Runtimes are usually much shorter with Li-ion 14500 batteries, especially in the H1 level. When using 14500s, H2 is a 2Hz flashing. When using 1.5V batteries, H1 is a 2Hz flashing. 

It looks to me like the 14500's have a shorter runtime because they use the 193 Lm(H1) output and the 1.5V batteries use the 122 Lm(H2) output.
So yes, the 14500's will have brighter output.
Unless I'm interpreting this wrong.


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## hazna (Feb 8, 2010)

ZebraLight said:


> There is no difference in the OTF output between the CR123A and 16340, or between the NiMH and 14500.
> 
> With AA sources, the SC50 can only go as high as 122lm, the other selection is of no use if you 'double click'. On the other hand, for those who prefer 14500s for the max output, the 122lm selection will probably not be used that much. Might as well have a strobe there.



I am quite confused regarding this statement. Maybe i'm misinterpreting it, but it seems to contradict what is said on the zebralight website.


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## Shorty66 (Feb 8, 2010)

Yeah, especially the "double click selection is of no use" with AAs. I thought there would be a strobe with both batterytypes?


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## hazna (Feb 8, 2010)

ZebraLight said:


> There is no difference in the OTF output between the CR123A and 16340, or between the NiMH and 14500.
> 
> With AA sources, the SC50 can only go as high as 122lm, the other selection is of no use if you 'double click'. On the other hand, for those who prefer 14500s for the max output, the 122lm selection will probably not be used that much. Might as well have a strobe there.




Re-reading this post, I believe it would make more sense if it said:
'There is no difference in the OTF output between the CR123A and 16340, or between the NiMH and *lithium AA primaries*'

'With AA sources _(NiMH, alkaline, lithium primaries)_, the SC50 can only go as high as 122lm _(as there is not enough voltage to supply 193lumens)_, the other selection is of no use if you 'double click' _(hence the other selection is strobe_). '

'On the other hand, for those who prefer 14500s for the max output, the 122lm selection will probably not be used that much _(as such people prefer the 193 lumens instead)_. Might as well have a strobe there _(instead of the 122lumen output_)'


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## Shorty66 (Feb 8, 2010)

I think they meant that each level is the same with any batterytype. So no change in OTF lumens if you are using the same level with different batteries.

The H1 level is not avaible on AAs (NiMH,Alkaline and Lithium AAs) though.

edit: just reread your post and agree with you.


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## davidt1 (Feb 8, 2010)

This is my interpretation of what George said:

With 14500 battery you have 193lm and strobe

with other batteries you have 122lm and strobe.

Unless you somehow manage to miss the 193lm rating, 14500 is brighter because 193lm is the rating for it.


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## mega_lumens (Feb 8, 2010)

What's the main difference in beam pattern between H30 and the new H31?
Is the H31 a thrower with the reflector or the size is till too small to be a decent thrower?


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## TooManyGizmos (Feb 8, 2010)

My problem is with their primary statement :



ZebraLight said:


> There is no difference in the OTF output between the CR123A and 16340, or between the NiMH and 14500.



It says that no matter what battery you use ... "There is no difference in the OTF output ...".

So one can't be brighter than another even tho there is a big voltage difference.
.


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## uplite (Feb 8, 2010)

Shorty66 said:


> I think they meant that each level is the same with any batterytype. So no change in OTF lumens if you are using the same level with different batteries.


That's how I read it also:

L1, L2, M1, and M2 each put out the specified number of OTF lumens regardless of the battery type.
H1 (193 lumens OTF) is only available for 14500 lithium-ion cells.
H2 (122 lumens OTF) is only available for other AA cells.

Sounds great. And thank goodness, they are using the tight & white XP-E instead of the floody & green XP-G for these lights. :thumbsup:

Only question is whether I should buy the SC50, or wait for the SC50w, or both. 

-Jeff


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## WebWalker (Feb 8, 2010)

Hazna
I think you have worded it correctly. They should rewrite their site explanations.


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## oronocova (Feb 8, 2010)

I'm waiting on the SC50w myself. I wish it would be out in time for my upcoming hiking trip!


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## JJohn (Feb 9, 2010)

I love my SC30 but, I am really intrigued by the AA side-by-side prototype. A few years back I designed a AAA side-by-side light but found it too expensive to fabricate. The nice thing about the design was it fit into any pocket and had either great runtime or high output. It could be made quite a bit thinner and shorter than the AA version. I hope ZL considers making one of these lights too. 

Back on topic, I will probably get both the new SC50 and the 2AA version and see which works better for me.


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## hazna (Feb 9, 2010)

TooManyGizmos said:


> My problem is with their primary statement :
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I think they wrote the wrong battery type in that statement, instead of 14500, I think they mean lithium primaries. Everything else makes sense in light of this.


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## Owen (Feb 9, 2010)

Sadly, I lost my SC30w last week, after only having it for about three days.
It's literally the first thing I've lost in years.

Loved the UI, and will be hoping for a SC60w. Hopefully the pocket clip won't have that hideous, sharp-edged integral mount that basically forces you to keep the clip in place, but maybe the length will help if it does. 
I don't know where I lost my SC30w, but I found it on chairs, on the floor, and the floorboard of my truck several times in the short time I had it. Even after being stretched a bit, the clip was tight on jeans or slacks, and unusable on sweats, but combined with the short length it wasn't working too well for me. Guarantee if I'd been carrying it in the pocket with a lanyard, like all the other single cell lights I've used, it'd still be around. Maybe it'll turn up, somehow
The clip itself, and especially that integral mount, get some serious thumbs down, while the lack of a lanyard/keyring attachment is just plain dumb on a light this size. You can use the clip for a lanyard attachment, but it was awkward to me. 

Anyway, my question is...what bin are the "warm" XP-Es used in the initial run of SC30w? 
In the 5A bin, which my 3 Zebralight headlamps all use, it's technically impossible to get a greenish tint, but my SC30w was noticeably so, even when being used alone. 
I've been 100% satisfied with my "warm" models from Malkoff and ZL, but overall, the SC30w's beam was very dull looking in comparison to all of my LED lights(which all use a 5A or 5B Cree XR-E), and aside from the fact that I _can't believe_ that I actually lost something, I can't say I really miss it very much.
As I said, I'd go for a SC60w(and another SC30w without the clip mount, for that matter), but being all picky and stuff, would like to see a bin code first.


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## jblackwood (Feb 9, 2010)

This may be the wrong place to ask this, but does anyone know anyone who works at Zebralight? I only ask because it says that it's "American owned and operated" on their website and the light I ordered shipped from Texas (nice fast service!). It seems like we know someone, as a community, from other companies that are based here in the USA. Just curious. 

Oh yeah, and I'll be waiting for the AA versions as well, only because I don't do primaries and I have enough RCR123's that I'm not using. Am I the only one on this board who wasn't keenly aware, until recently, that RCR123's and most all other Li-ion based chemistries are only good for two years, whether or not you charge and discharge them?


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## parnass (Feb 9, 2010)

Owen said:


> Sadly, I lost my SC30w last week ..... Hopefully the pocket clip won't have that hideous, sharp-edged integral mount that basically forces you to keep the clip in place, but maybe the length will help if it does....



Sorry to learn about your missing flashlight.

Just curious -- What forces you to keep the clip in place? What happens if you remove the 2 screws which hold the clip?

I don't have an SC30 and am trying to see what you mean by viewing the photos.

A lanyard attachment point is important to me, too.

Thanks.


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## Owen (Feb 9, 2010)

parnass said:


> Just curious -- What forces you to keep the clip in place? What happens if you remove the 2 screws which hold the clip?


http://www.zebralight.com/SC30w-Flashlight-Neutral-White_p_19.html
If you look at the second pic, there is a machined "ring" around the light at the clip end, which rises to a flat under the clip which is threaded for the clip screws. All of the edges and corners of the flat are very sharp. I took the clip off, and immediately put it back on. If there was a lanyard attachment, I'd have fed that mount to the Dremel tool, finish be damned.


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## jblackwood (Feb 9, 2010)

Yeah, Owen. I see what you mean. It's unfortunate. Even though I usually keep the clips on lights, it's nice to know that on some lights, you take the clip off and it's just the smooth, sexy body (RA Clicky, Dereelight DBS and CL1H). 

Still, I love the two headlamps I've got from Zebra and hope to get some of these lights some time soon.


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## uplite (Feb 9, 2010)

parnass said:


> A lanyard attachment point is important to me, too.


Ditto.

I figure I'll make my own with some 1/32" music wire. Bend it into a U, bend a tiny loop at each end, and screw it down in place of the clip. Then attach a thin wrist strap.

It'd be nice if this came in the box, but it won't stop me from buying the SC50. Hopefully ZL will smooth the edges of the mounting point in their next rev.

-Jeff


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## davidt1 (Feb 9, 2010)

"122lm for 2.5 hour from a 2700mh battery" That's probably the best run time and brightness from a single celled AA light. I can't wait for the XP-G version. The green tint will be a thing of the past a few months from now. The floody beam makes it more useful and better efficiency makes the XP-G emitter worthy of being the next generation emitter.

About the double AA light, wouldn't it be great if the head is adjustable? It would be a hair longer but infinitely more useful.


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## uplite (Feb 9, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> "122lm for 2.5 hour from a 2700mh battery" That's probably the best run time and brightness from a single celled AA light. I can't wait for the XP-G version. The green tint will be a thing of the past a few months from now. The floody beam makes it more useful and better efficiency makes the XP-G emitter worthy of being the next generation emitter.


I wonder if 2.5 hours is the real runtime, or a draft spec. :thinking: If it really does 2.5 hours on high, wowza! Lithium AAs will do even better. 

fwiw, the greenish tint with XP-G's is not just a binning issue. IME, _all_ of these LEDs (XR-E, XP-E, and XP-G) show tint-shift towards green at low drive currents. We just see it more with the XP-G because the die is 240% larger, so the current density on-chip is much lower. The XP-G was not designed to be under-driven in little flashlights. Not a problem if you mostly use High modes though. 

Flood is great for close up work. I love the 80 degree beam on the H501 headlamp. :thumbsup: Sometimes I need a small hand-held thrower though...like one of these new reflectored zebralights. XP-E is still the best emitter for that application.

Eventually the XP-G will be released in some high flux bin (S4? S5?) that out-throws the XP-E by the sheer amount of light. I'm sure zebralight is planning ahead for that day. In the meantime, I'm glad they are still using XP-E's in the SC30 and SC50. :twothumbs

-Jeff


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## Blindasabat (Feb 9, 2010)

I've had my RCR123's for a several years and they have held up much better than non-LSD NiMH (though I have only had my LSD NiMH for a few months). I have noticed no reduction in capacity. Some have failed entirely due to cheap protection circuit failures, but they are all super cheap DX ones, and I have a whole set of "premium" Sanyo AA's that only last 5 minutes in anything. Some people here have claimed using a set of RCR's for somewhere close to ten years.


jblackwood said:


> ...Am I the only one on this board who wasn't keenly aware, until recently, that RCR123's and most all other Li-ion based chemistries are only good for two years, whether or not you charge and discharge them?


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## Owen (Feb 9, 2010)

Some people around here must have access to a time machine.


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## TooManyGizmos (Feb 9, 2010)

jblackwood said:


> Am I the only one on this board who wasn't keenly aware, until recently, that RCR123's and most all other Li-ion based chemistries are only good for two years, whether or not you charge and discharge them?



Most of us understand it's not two years - but 4 to 5 years . As they age, they have deminished capacity and charge to a lower level than the 4.19v when they were new.



Owen said:


> If you look at the second pic, there is a machined "ring" around the light at the clip end, which rises to a flat under the clip which is threaded for the clip screws. All of the edges and corners of the flat are very sharp. I took the clip off, and immediately put it back on. If there was a lanyard attachment, I'd have fed that mount to the Dremel tool, finish be damned.



You could fabricate a small piece of metal or plastic with a *hump* in the middle , to screw on in place of the clip. Attach the lanyard thru the hump(between the screws).

ZebraLight should have provided that themselves .
.


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## olrac (Feb 10, 2010)

I like the AA with improved clip/body area. Would like to see it with a *Neutral* emitter. The warm emitter used in the SC30w was just too green/brown for me, even outside I preferred the SC30 over it. The emitter 47's used in his mini 123 Neutral has to be the nicest tint I have seen to date, XP-E* Q35A3**. 
*The fact that these have sold out tells you it's well liked. That emitter with this light would be killer.


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## wapkil (Feb 10, 2010)

I don't have an SC30w but the tint they use shouldn't be warmer than 5A3. They write that the CCT is 4000K-4300K, 5A3 is around 4000K-4100K. 

Anybody knows what tint bin is used in warm SC Zebras?

BTW, the SC50w specification is already there. Zebralight also reworded the confusing description of OTF outputs. It works like everybody suspected - 14500s offer a higher high, the output in other modes is identical.


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## olrac (Feb 10, 2010)

All I can say is I had both the SC30w and Ti mini 123 Neutral side by side and the mini tint looked much better on all levels and in real world outdoors tests.


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## olrac (Feb 10, 2010)

Make my own lanyard attachment from some disks I had lying around, worked out ok.


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## wapkil (Feb 10, 2010)

olrac said:


> All I can say is I had both the SC30w and Ti mini 123 Neutral side by side and the mini tint looked much better on all levels and in real world outdoors tests.



Yup, 5A3 lies nicely on the black body curve. There are eight different tint bins in the 4000K-4300K range that ZL writes about so if they don't use 5A3 but e.g. 5B2 or 5B3 it won't be warmer but the difference should be quite visible. That's why I asked if anyone knows which tint bin is there.


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## Tixx (Feb 10, 2010)

Neutral AAs are up
http://www.zebralight.com/SC50w-Flashlight-Neutral-White_p_27.html


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## uplite (Feb 10, 2010)

From the output numbers, the neutral whites are just flux 2 bins behind the cool whites. Probably Q4 vs R2.

I'd also like to know the tint bin.

ZL?

-Jeff


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## MojaveMoon07 (Feb 10, 2010)

I'm excited about the SC50. But there's one thing that concerns me. This light is just 3.15". I have large hands; might it be awkward to try to comfortably use the on/off button positioned where it is on a flashlight this short ?


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## Owen (Feb 10, 2010)

Can't answer that for you, but the SC30w was comfortable for me to use, and I generally prefer a 2x123 light for ease of handling.


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## datiLED (Feb 10, 2010)

Check out this side-by-side Zebralight 2AA prototype. _Very interesting_.


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## datiLED (Feb 10, 2010)

Check out this side-by-side Zebralight 2AA prototype. It is dubbed the S5200. _Very interesting_.


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 10, 2010)

Nice work on that lanyard attachment, olrac. I'm a big fan of do-it-yourself jobs like this. 

Geoff


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## TooManyGizmos (Feb 10, 2010)

TooManyGizmos said:


> You could fabricate a small piece of metal or plastic with a *hump* in the middle , to screw on in place of the clip. Attach the lanyard thru the hump(between the screws).
> 
> ZebraLight should have provided that themselves .
> .



Nice work , OLRAC .....

That's real close to what I meant .... but not quite . Thats just a little larger.

But that will do .

You know ... you could even put that behind the clip ... if you had longer screws.
.


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## WebWalker (Feb 10, 2010)

The whole clip design on this is a wart.

I tried to see how it was attached before I bought and couldn't tell from the photos. I was buying a light of this size for non clip duty. I wanted the guaranteed OTF lumens from an amazingly small form factor. 

Yeh so it's 123 but for me that's just fine.

Now I have an ugly, sharp protrusion, on the barrel. Not aesthetically pleasing. 

So, like has been suggested just cut it off, or put trits in the screw holes, or mill a trench and put in a trit. I was leaning to cutting it off.

But now the tether. So mill out a trough between the screw holes, cut off the strap from the original clip. Or as TooManyGizmos said build a bulge strap. Probably better idea and keep it stock.

No, no, not two.

And they changed the interface on the sc50!


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## olrac (Feb 11, 2010)

Thanks for your comments about the lanyard attachment,
I'm more of a clip person, I just wanted to see if I could make one easy. If anybody wants this attachment just post here and PM your address and I will send it to you. I only have the one.

Also I think Zebralight should have kept the UI in the SC50 the same as the SC30, it is perfect and don't need a strobe level.


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## jblackwood (Feb 11, 2010)

I just placed my preorder for one AA model of each. It's hard to wait!


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## hazna (Feb 11, 2010)

I don't mind the strobe, what else would you want to put in the H1 mode when running normal AA batteries? A normal AA won't be able to put out the ~200 lumens that the 14500 will be able to put out. You could have a lower high, but personally I prefer the strobe over that. I would consider losing the strobe for 14500s and having a ~200/100 lumens for H1/H2.


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## davidt1 (Feb 11, 2010)

Tixx said:


> Neutral AAs are up
> http://www.zebralight.com/SC50w-Flashlight-Neutral-White_p_27.html



Awesome...the best is getting better. Is that even possible? New UI is perfect. Emergency mode is wonderful -- very useful in a rescue situation, scene of an accident, etc. Oh, and it's out the way too. 

Can't wait for the review.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Feb 11, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Awesome...the best is getting better. Is that even possible? New UI is perfect. Emergency mode is wonderful -- very useful in a rescue situation, scene of an accident, etc. Oh, and it's out the way too.
> 
> Can't wait for the review.


 
I hope the runtime on high is close to the spec. they listed.


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## uplite (Feb 11, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I hope the runtime on high is close to the spec. they listed.


I'm 99% sure that runtime was a typo, and should read *1.5 hours* on High. Compare it against the SC30 runtimes and I think you'll agree. It's still a very respectable runtime for 122 lumens from a single AA. :thumbsup:

-Jeff


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## dealgrabber2002 (Feb 11, 2010)

uplite said:


> I'm 99% sure that runtime was a typo, and should read *1.5 hours* on High. Compare it against the SC30 runtimes and I think you'll agree. It's still a very respectable runtime for 122 lumens from a single AA. :thumbsup:
> 
> -Jeff


 
I hope it's 1.5 hours on high before hitting 50%. I hope it's not 1.5 hours and the battery is complete dead.


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## davidt1 (Feb 11, 2010)

Why not 2.5 hour? It's a high capacity battery they use. I get about 2 hours with Eneloop on my H501.


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## uplite (Feb 11, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I hope it's 1.5 hours on high before hitting 50%. I hope it's not 1.5 hours and the battery is complete dead.


Same same, I think. These zebralights are well regulated. By the time the light hits 50% output, the cell has already "fallen off the cliff" and is delivering its last gasp of power. The microcontroller will shut off before the cell is completely dead, but it's close enough.

Dunno about you, but I'm totally happy with 1.5 hours on High on a NiMH. That means 2+ hours on a lithium primary. If it runs longer than that, great! 




davidt1 said:


> Why not 2.5 hour? It's a high capacity battery they use. I get about 2 hours with Eneloop on my H501.


I'm just guessing based on:

* My own experience with my H501. I have run it continuously on both Sanyo 2700mAh cells, and Eneloop 2000mAh cells. The light starts to flicker before 90 minutes are up. Could be my specific light or cells, but that's my experience.

* Discrepancy with SC30 specs. The SC30 specs say 12h @ 38 lms or 2h @ 105 lms. SC50 specs say 11.5h @ 38 lms (slightly less efficient than SC30) or 2.5h @ 122 lms (much more efficient than SC30). That doesn't make sense. If you change the SC50 runtime to 1.5h @ 122 lms, it does make sense.

1.5h on High is plenty of runtime IMO. If it does more, bonus! But I wouldn't count on it. 

-Jeff


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## wapkil (Feb 11, 2010)

uplite said:


> I'm just guessing based on:
> 
> * My own experience with my H501. I have run it continuously on both Sanyo 2700mAh cells, and Eneloop 2000mAh cells. The light starts to flicker before 90 minutes are up. Could be my specific light or cells, but that's my experience.



Does it start to flicker after 90 minutes with an Eneloop? Sanyo 2700 holds around 1/3 more energy than an Eneloop so 90min. with an Eneloop would be equivalent to 2h with a Sanyo 2700 - exactly like in the specification.



uplite said:


> * Discrepancy with SC30 specs. The SC30 specs say 12h @ 38 lms or 2h @ 105 lms. SC50 specs say 11.5h @ 38 lms (slightly less efficient than SC30) or 2.5h @ 122 lms (much more efficient than SC30). That doesn't make sense. If you change the SC50 runtime to 1.5h @ 122 lms, it does make sense.



Yeah, 122lm for 2.5h sounds suspicious - I agree that 1.5 looks much better. 

ZebraLight, are you reading this? Any comments?


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## uplite (Feb 11, 2010)

wapkil said:


> Does it start to flicker after 90 minutes with an Eneloop? Sanyo 2700 holds around 1/3 more energy than an Eneloop so 90min. with an Eneloop would be equivalent to 2h with a Sanyo 2700 - exactly like in the specification.


I don't recall _any_ of my NiMHs making it to 1.5 hours on High.

IIRC, the 2700s performed about the same or even worse than the eneloops. It's possible that those cells were not yet broken in. I also ran some older Panasonic 2300s that have seen probably 50-100 cycles. But it's possible those cells have lost some capacity.

These are informal observations based on the longest continuous stretches I've used the H501. 6+ battery changes while helping with wiring in a friend's renovated house, and 2+ battery changes while doing auto wiring. It's a perfect light for that kind of work. I've used it camping too, but I usually get a whole weekend on the same cell at many different levels.

I have 2 eneloops and 2 2700s on the charger right now so I can try a real stopwatch test. If the runtimes are less than 90 minutes, I'll run those cells thru a test cycle on the charger to measure capacity. But this is still not a large enough sample to speak for others. The best bet is to take stopwatch runtimes on your own light, with your own cells, to make sure it does what you want. 

-Jeff


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## NonSenCe (Feb 11, 2010)

that 2AA ..batteries arranged side by side flashlight.
and with side clicky. cool!

it is like the one i have been wishing for long time now! its like zebralight has read some of my thoughts i wrote here in cpf earlier. im so psyched to see it coming. 
its similar to my number 2 in this thread.

(https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/225761)

yeah. warm tint is still missing from prototype.. but they do listen to us few that beg for one and put those too for sale. so im confident it will also be available in the end with warm/neutral tint. 

and here is hoping they will make something like this one too eventually:

(https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/221311)
not much has changed since.. the ui still is unheard of kind. versatility to excess. 

i just spent too much surfing on Z´s site.. now i just gotta buy the h501w eventually. to replace the one i lost. dmait.


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## wapkil (Feb 11, 2010)

uplite said:


> I don't recall _any_ of my NiMHs making it to 1.5 hours on High.
> 
> IIRC, the 2700s performed about the same or even worse than the eneloops. It's possible that those cells were not yet broken in. I also ran some older Panasonic 2300s that have seen probably 50-100 cycles. But it's possible those cells have lost some capacity.



When I tested my H501 with the 2700s I got exactly 2h runtime. I haven't measured the runtime with Eneloops but I have an impression that it is substantially less with them. Maybe not all 2700s are created equal :shrug:


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## uplite (Feb 11, 2010)

wapkil said:


> Maybe not all 2700s are created equal :shrug:


Yup. Plus not all electronics are created equal. And our tests were different.

My experience with fresh NiMH cells in the H501 has been that after 1 to 1.5 hours on High, the light starts to flicker/strobe. Then it gets unpredictable. Sometimes I can cycle modes thru low-medium-flicker. Sometimes just low-medium. Sometimes it just cuts off when I press the button, and I have to let the cell rest for a while, or replace it. This seems to be an issue with the sensitivity of the microcontroller to low voltage, and it probably varies from light to light.

IMO, it just means that it's time to swap batteries. 

In your test thread, you mentioned seeing the low-battery flicker on NiMH cells...but your graphs show a smooth decline in output. Is it possible that test rig just measured the _peak_ lux, not average lux, while the light was flickering? The light was shining in a sealed tube, right? So you didn't see when it started to strobe?

-Jeff


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## ZebraLight (Feb 11, 2010)

uplite said:


> I'm 99% sure that runtime was a typo, and should read *1.5 hours* on High. Compare it against the SC30 runtimes and I think you'll agree. It's still a very respectable runtime for 122 lumens from a single AA. :thumbsup:
> 
> -Jeff


 
Thanks for pointing out, uplite. It's a typo. The runtime on High is 2.3 hours with 2700mAh or 1.7 hours with 2000mAh Eneloop. That runtime is the same as in the H501, since they share the same boost circuit. However, unlike the H501, the SC50 has a functional buck circuit that can handle 14500's properly.


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## ZebraLight (Feb 11, 2010)

wapkil said:


> Yup, 5A3 lies nicely on the black body curve. There are eight different tint bins in the 4000K-4300K range that ZL writes about so if they don't use 5A3 but e.g. 5B2 or 5B3 it won't be warmer but the difference should be quite visible. That's why I asked if anyone knows which tint bin is there.


 
The tint (chromaticity bin) in the current batches of the SC30w is 5B4, which is right next to the 5A3 with the same color temperature. Depending on the availability, we may use 5A3 in the future. We use the 5A3 XR-E LED's in most of our H501w/H60w headlamps.


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## kaichu dento (Feb 12, 2010)

Tixx said:


> Neutral AAs are up
> http://www.zebralight.com/SC50w-Flashlight-Neutral-White_p_27.html


I'm getting one! Do we get a CPF discount?


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## Owen (Feb 12, 2010)

ZebraLight said:


> The tint (chromaticity bin) in the current batches of the SC30w is 5B4, which is right next to the 5A3 with the same color temperature. Depending on the availability, we may use 5A3 in the future. We use the 5A3 XR-E LED's in most of our H501w/H60w headlamps.


I'm just now learning about this three character bin coding for the XP-E/G, but looking at the chart it should be consistent with the XR-E color codes. 
5B happens to be my favorite bin, but the emitter in my SC30w bore little similarity to my Q4-5B XR-Es, and was very green in comparison
Is that weird, or am I just misreading something?


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## wapkil (Feb 12, 2010)

uplite said:


> In your test thread, you mentioned seeing the low-battery flicker on NiMH cells...but your graphs show a smooth decline in output. Is it possible that test rig just measured the _peak_ lux, not average lux, while the light was flickering? The light was shining in a sealed tube, right? So you didn't see when it started to strobe?



I believe that what I measured was the average value. I could also see some light coming out of the tube. I'm not completely sure but I think it started to strobe around the moment when the rapid dimming started (i.e. at ~113 minutes). 

BTW, after the answer from ZebraLight in this thread I checked the values for H501 - the specified runtime is not 2h as I thought but 2.3h. Seems a bit high to me. Has anyone tested it to be running so long? Anyway even if the SC50 runtime were ~2h, like I measured for my H501, it is still a respectable value.


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## wapkil (Feb 12, 2010)

ZebraLight said:


> The tint (chromaticity bin) in the current batches of the SC30w is 5B4, which is right next to the 5A3 with the same color temperature. Depending on the availability, we may use 5A3 in the future. We use the 5A3 XR-E LED's in most of our H501w/H60w headlamps.



Thank you for the answer. I think I would prefer 5A3 but 5B4 is also perfectly fine for me. 

BTW, does anybody know why the flashlight manufacturers seem to ignore the tint bins from below the black body curve (e.g. 5A4)? I haven't seen them in person but shouldn't they be a bit more pleasant to the eye than their counterparts from the other side of the curve (e.g. 5B4), with more pink/yellow instead of green/blue?


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## wapkil (Feb 12, 2010)

Owen said:


> I'm just now learning about this three character bin coding for the XP-E/G, but looking at the chart it should be consistent with the XR-E color codes.
> 5B happens to be my favorite bin, but the emitter in my SC30w bore little similarity to my Q4-5B XR-Es, and was very green in comparison
> Is that weird, or am I just misreading something?



With all the reports of the new LEDs being green I don't know if it is weird but AFAIK Cree simply divided each of the old bins into four parts so 5Bx should be inside the old 5B, as you wrote.


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## uplite (Feb 12, 2010)

ZebraLight said:


> The runtime on High is 2.3 hours with 2700mAh or 1.7 hours with 2000mAh Eneloop. That runtime is the same as in the H501, since they share the same boost circuit.





wapkil said:


> BTW, after the answer from ZebraLight in this thread I checked the values for H501 - the specified runtime is not 2h as I thought but 2.3h. Seems a bit high to me. Has anyone tested it to be running so long?



OK, I did some rough tests, and I totally believe 2.3h is possible if you have a GOOD 2700mAh cell (i.e., one that can actually deliver 35% more power than an eneloop).

I did two rough tests last night:

#1 - Eneloop (my best one, 1.50v off the charger, others are 1.46v). At 1h40m (~1.7h) it was still running strong, maybe a _tiny_ bit dimmer than at the start, but it's hard to say. Definitely still High mode. It is quite possible that it went for 2+ hours in high like davidt1 has reported. Unfortunately I didn't check it again until 2h20m. Output at that point was between Low and Medium, closer to Low, without visible strobing.

#2 - Sanyo 2700mAh (random, 1.41v off the charger). At 1h it was noticeably dimmer than High (but still closer to High than Medium). At 1h30m it was in a Low-Medium strobe. Trying to cycle the modes shut it down. Oddly the cell showed as 1.31v when I put it back on the charger. 

wapkil, I think you nailed it...*not all 2700 cells are equal*. Looks like mine were manufactured in 7/2008. I know high-cap cells die more quickly that LSD cells. Might have better luck with a batch of 2700s fresh from the factory.

zebralight, thank you for the reply. I am very happy with the runtime on my H501, so I'm sure I will be even happier with the SC50. Li-ion turbo mode is a welcome enhancement. :thumbsup:

-Jeff


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## kaichu dento (Feb 12, 2010)

ZebraLight said:


> The tint (chromaticity bin) in the current batches of the SC30w is 5B4, which is right next to the 5A3 with the same color temperature. Depending on the availability, we may use 5A3 in the future. We use the 5A3 XR-E LED's in most of our H501w/H60w headlamps.


I'm fine with any of these tints and as long as the reflector design is right I don't even mind getting xr-e emitters. My H501w was really nice, but as much as I enjoy looking at a perfect flood with no hotspot, I have a preference for center-weighted flood. 

So much for rambling. Zebralight, is there a CPF discount available to us?


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## uplite (Feb 12, 2010)

Owen said:


> 5B happens to be my favorite bin, but the emitter in my SC30w bore little similarity to my Q4-5B XR-Es, and was very green in comparison
> Is that weird, or am I just misreading something?


Depends. It could be different drive currents. Could be differences in the optics. Could even be mislabeled bins, especially if you got emitters or lights from somewhere like DX.

Which lights do you run those Q4-5B XREs in? Is there any chance you could post a beamshot comparing one of those lights with the SC30w, at a similar drive current?




wapkil said:


> BTW, does anybody know why the flashlight manufacturers seem to ignore the tint bins from below the black body curve (e.g. 5A4)? I haven't seen them in person but shouldn't they be a bit more pleasant to the eye than their counterparts from the other side of the curve (e.g. 5B4), with more pink/yellow instead of green/blue?


I think the flashlight manufacturers are constrained by what bins are readily available. The LED manufacturers show a bazillion tints on their charts, but they don't actually make all of those tints in quantity. 5A and 5B seem to be the most available neutral tints from Cree.

Which is more pleasant on the eye? That's highly subjective, and depends on what you illuminate. I pre-ordered an SC50w so I can see for myself. 

-Jeff


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## kaichu dento (Feb 13, 2010)

uplite said:


> Which is more pleasant on the eye? That's highly subjective, and depends on what you illuminate. I pre-ordered an SC50w so I can see for myself.
> 
> -Jeff


Jeff, is there a discount for us in CPF? 

I agree fully about the subjectiveness of tint preference but I find it much easier to imagine most of us would prefer yellow/pink leaning over green/blue, although I guess the only one of the three I dislike is the green. :sick2:


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## hazna (Feb 13, 2010)

discounts are always welcome!


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## Braddah_Bill (Feb 13, 2010)

Owen said:


> I'm just now learning about this three character bin coding for the XP-E/G, but looking at the chart it should be consistent with the XR-E color codes.
> 5B happens to be my favorite bin, but the emitter in my SC30w bore little similarity to my Q4-5B XR-Es, and was very green in comparison
> Is that weird, or am I just misreading something?


 
I like the tint on my SC30W. No more Cool tints for me.

Just a quick shot with my 4-7 Mini123W. 20" from the wall, camera set on AUTO. I really need to learn how to take better beam shots 

Right SC30W Left 4-7 Mini123W




 

Added Nite Core D10GD​ 





Left 4-7 Mini123W... Middle Nite Core D10 AA GD... Right SC30W​


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## wapkil (Feb 13, 2010)

uplite said:


> wapkil, I think you nailed it...*not all 2700 cells are equal*. Looks like mine were manufactured in 7/2008. I know high-cap cells die more quickly that LSD cells. Might have better luck with a batch of 2700s fresh from the factory.



Interestingly my 2700s also seem to be from 7/2008. I don't remember when I bought them but they have 08-07 printed on them. Yet another indication that the Eneloops are now the best cells for doing comparisons - they seem to be almost identical in every batch. Although the amount of energy stored will depend on the way they were charged...



kaichu dento said:


> uplite said:
> 
> 
> > Which is more pleasant on the eye? That's highly subjective, and depends on what you illuminate. I pre-ordered an SC50w so I can see for myself.
> ...



Yup, that's exactly what I meant


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## MojaveMoon07 (Feb 13, 2010)

I have a question, and the answer might help me decide whether or not to get the SC50.

If the SC50 were to be my EDC, then it might be more practical for me to have two sets of Zebralight headbands for it -- one for the house all the time and one to keep in the car all the time. Does Zebralight let you buy a headband separately ?


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## CathastrophiX (Feb 13, 2010)

I have ordered spare headbands and silicone holders for my H60 and H30.
($3.75 + S/H per set)


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## Owen (Feb 13, 2010)

I'm not going to argue about tints, just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing anything on the bin code, since I was wondering where the green was coming from.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Feb 13, 2010)

CathastrophiX said:


> I have ordered spare headbands and silicone holders for my H60 and H30.
> ($3.75 + S/H per set)



Thank you


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## davidt1 (Feb 13, 2010)

Braddah Bill, 

Thanks for the beam shots. Me like big hot spot.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Feb 14, 2010)

Thanks for the beamshot Braddah Bill. Seems like it will throw further than the MiNi 123.


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## olrac (Feb 15, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> Thanks for the beamshot Braddah Bill. Seems like it will throw further than the MiNi 123.



I have both and they throw about the same (these little lights are not throw monsters by any means but they are not designed for that)


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## davidt1 (Feb 16, 2010)

WebWalker said:


> The whole clip design on this is a wart.
> 
> I tried to see how it was attached before I bought and couldn't tell from the photos. I was buying a light of this size for non clip duty. I wanted the guaranteed OTF lumens from an amazingly small form factor.
> 
> ...



I much prefer deep clip and even body like my K-106. Because the tail screws out for battery replacement, it's not easy to put a deep clips on ZL lights. Their new lights are probably great for belt carry though.


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## Quickstrike (Feb 17, 2010)

Eagerly awaiting the 18650 version!

Wonder what the run times will be like.


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## kaichu dento (Feb 17, 2010)

So, does anyone know if there is a seller that offers a CPF discount?


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## oronocova (Feb 17, 2010)

www.GoingGear.com offers a discount. They are great to deal with, very quick and reasonable (free over 50) shipping. Right now they only list the SC30/w but I bet they will have the SC50 before too long. Personally, that's what I'm waiting on.


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## kaichu dento (Feb 17, 2010)

Thanks Oronocova! I just sent an e-mail to GoingGear.com asking how soon they'd have the SC-50w.


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## uplite (Feb 17, 2010)

Does anyone know where I could find some *black* button-head or pan-head M2.5 screws to replace the shiny pan-head screws on the SC30/SC50?

I have some black M2.5 socket-head screws. Too tall. Need a lower profile.

I checked fastener-express. They have stainless, but no black in this size.

Micro torx or hex drive preferred.

Thanks for any pointers.

-Jeff


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## Blindasabat (Feb 17, 2010)

MacMaster-Carr has torx M2.5 socket cap screws down to 3mm long in black.
See if this link works:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-cap-screws/=5v0qv3

<EDIT: you will have to select socket cap screw, button, M2.5, black, star (for torx) from the choices offered, then it gives you 
3 mm part number 91239A752 at $4.66 per Pack of ten. /edit>


uplite said:


> Does anyone know where I could find some *black* button-head or pan-head M2.5 screws to replace the shiny pan-head screws on the SC30/SC50?
> ...


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## uplite (Feb 17, 2010)

Blindasabat said:


> MacMaster-Carr has torx M2.5 socket cap screws down to 3mm long in black.


:thanks: :thanks: :thanks:

If this works out, I will have some extra screws for anyone else who wants to mod their zebralight clip.

Zebralight...can you please tell us...do the SC50 and SC30 use the same clip screws? M2.5 x 0.45 thread x 2.5 long?

Also...how thick is the stock clip?

TIA,
-Jeff


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## davidt1 (Feb 18, 2010)

Have owners of the SC30 done run time and brightness comparison with similar lights made by other companies. I thought it would interesting to see who overrates their lights and who underrates their lights. I personally like companies that underrate (more honest) the performance of their products a little.


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## ZebraLight (Feb 18, 2010)

uplite said:


> :thanks: :thanks: :thanks:
> 
> If this works out, I will have some extra screws for anyone else who wants to mod their zebralight clip.
> 
> ...


 
Same screws, M2.5 x 0.45 thread x 2.5 long. The clip is 1mm thick.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Feb 21, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> I personally like companies that underrate (more honest) the performance of their products a little.


 
+1

I guess that is another reason why people love surefire besides the quality. They tend not to over overrate their spec.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Feb 22, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> +1
> 
> I guess that is another reason why people love surefire besides the quality. They tend not to over overrate their spec.


*+2*

That's why SureFire is King.


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## Beampower (Feb 22, 2010)

I have just landed a Zebralight sc30,and boy! what a super light! It has a low/low facility, just like my Quark Ti 123, 0.4 and 0.2 lumens respectively. No sooner had i got this out of the packaging,my wife has a play with it,and then tells me this will be perfect on her side of the bed, as a night light to feed our Baby Daughter! This Light really does have a sense of individuality, and definately has the wow factor! Its a Solid, Versatile,Sexy Light,idea for EDC IMHO. Three Cheers to Zebralight!! 
I havent told the Wife yet that i have a MC2 Candle en route from Scott!


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## jblackwood (Feb 22, 2010)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> *+2*
> 
> That's why SureFire is King.



Way to get off topic! :ironic::thumbsdow

In that spirit, I've got one 6P. Wasn't impressed, especially since there was no clip and it didn't tailstand or even latch on with one hand. To each his own, I'm sure, but I decided right then to invest in other companies. I hate when threads go off topic like this and I guess I just added to the tangent, but I couldn't let those remarks go ignored. Surefires aren't for everyone. 

At least we're getting close to the ship MONTH (notice my buttery smooth segue?). It's getting to be so hard to wait for lights, especially when I use my ZL headlamps nearly every night! I imagine what it will be like with three lights on one headband. I'm gonna look so dorky!!! I can't wait.


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## davidt1 (Feb 22, 2010)

I don't really need another light. However, I will most likely buy a neutral SC50. Also, I wish they would update the UI, emitter and electronics of the H501. How hard can that be? Just put the SC50 stuff inside the H501 body and they have a brand new light. Now that all new lights have better UI, emitters and electronics, why not make them all standard?


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## Shorty66 (Feb 22, 2010)

I guess the h51 is for you. Im eagerly awaiting that one - why no information on that light Zebralight?

I would also like to see updates to the older lights though as those concepts are still quite remarkable.


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## uplite (Feb 22, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> I wish they would update the UI, emitter and electronics of the H501. How hard can that be? Just put the SC50 stuff inside the H501 body and they have a brand new light.


Not so easy. These zebralights are highly integrated designs. Body, optic, emitter, and electronics are all designed to fit and work together.

"Updating" the H501 with an XP-E emitter (please, no XP-G :green or the SC50 driver would mean redesigning the optic and body as well. It wouldn't really be an update...it would be an entirely new light.

I think zebralight is doing the right thing by releasing different types of lights before they "update" the old models. The new side-click handhelds are fantastic. Reflectored headlamps are also good...though personally I don't want to swap headlamps in the field, so I won't buy one. If zebralight made a dual-emitter H52 with the H501 flood lens _and_ the H51 reflector, I'd buy that!

-Jeff


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## Grumpy (Feb 22, 2010)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> *+2*
> 
> That's why SureFire is King.



I would rather have my SC30 than any surefire light in the same size category even if the price was the same.


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## davidt1 (Feb 23, 2010)

OK, then just update the UI in the H501. That shouldn't be hard to do.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Feb 25, 2010)

Grumpy said:


> I would rather have my SC30 than any surefire light in the same size category even if the price was the same.


 
I am curious of why, is the quality that good? I waiting for the SC50.


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## uplite (Feb 25, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I am curious of why, is the quality that good? I waiting for the SC50.


fwiw, I've handled and examined a few Surefire lights at the store...6P, E1L, E2L. Plus I own a Zebralight H501 that I use regularly.

IMO, the fit & finish of the Zebralight is at the same level as those Surefires. That's really all I can compare. I'm sure the 6P, E1L, and E2L are much more durable, simply because they are much larger and heavier lights. The Zebralights are precision _ultralight_ tools, not weapon-lights or toss-under-the-truck-seat lights. They belong on your head or in your pocket.

The closest that Surefire comes to the SC30 "class" is the T1A "Titan". It has a twisty UI...is 25% longer than SC30 (3.25" vs 2.6")...only 36% as bright (70 vs 193 lumens)...and costs as much as *four* SC30s.  OK, OK, it does have a nifty variable brightness control. 

dealgrabber, get off the fence and buy an SC50...I'm pretty sure you'll love it.

-Jeff


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## swxb12 (Feb 25, 2010)

Excited about the SC50, hopefully in a warm emitter...

...but really excited about the *S5200*! Would love more info. on this light.


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## Grumpy (Feb 25, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I am curious of why, is the quality that good? I waiting for the SC50.





uplite said:


> fwiw, I've handled and examined a few Surefire lights at the store...6P, E1L, E2L. Plus I own a Zebralight H501 that I use regularly.
> 
> IMO, the fit & finish of the Zebralight is at the same level as those Surefires. That's really all I can compare. I'm sure the 6P, E1L, and E2L are much more durable, simply because they are much larger and heavier lights. The Zebralights are precision _ultralight_ tools, not weapon-lights or toss-under-the-truck-seat lights. They belong on your head or in your pocket.
> 
> ...



uplite summed it up pretty well. 

I also like knowing how long a light will run at a certain level better than continiously variable lights that you have to guess how long it will run.

I also like a clip. (just wish it was for bezel up carry instead of bezel down so I could attach to my hat for hands free use)

Also R123 support is very important to me.

I read alot of complaints about the T1A's beam color.

I can use the SC30 to see objects at much longer distance.


I do like surefire lights but they just don't make anything that I like as good at this time.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Feb 25, 2010)

uplite said:


> dealgrabber, get off the fence and buy an SC50...I'm pretty sure you'll love it.
> 
> -Jeff



I am planning to... but it's not out yet.. I am also debating should I wait for the the S5200... it looks AWESOME!!!

And no, the cpf moto "get both" does not apply to those who is


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## kaichu dento (Feb 25, 2010)

Grumpy said:


> I read alot of complaints about the T1A's beam color.


Having preferences for neutral/warm tints I was shocked at how white the T1A beam was considering all the complaints posted here! It's possible I was lucky and got one of the better ones, but I suspect that as more and more of us become enamoured with the warmer tints that there'll be more overstatement when it comes to reporting on newer lights.


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## parnass (Feb 25, 2010)

Let's keep this thread devoted to the topic of new Zebralights. Thanks.


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## kaichu dento (Feb 26, 2010)

parnass said:


> Let's keep this thread devoted to the topic of new Zebralights. Thanks.


Thanks for the heads up Parnass! I just didn't want to let the false information go unchecked! Back to Zebralight! :thumbsup:


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## Shorty66 (Feb 26, 2010)

Im still waiting for the webpage on the h51.
Please Zebralight, set one up so i can show it to my friends


----------



## Swedpat (Feb 27, 2010)

I am considering to get Nitecore D10 SP and EX10 SP, but these Zebralights are also really attractive. Another difficult choice for an incurable flashoholic...:thinking:


----------



## turboBB (Feb 27, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Have owners of the SC30 done run time and brightness comparison with similar lights made by other companies. I thought it would interesting to see who overrates their lights and who underrates their lights. I personally like companies that underrate (more honest) the performance of their products a little.


 
I've now updated my review of the SC30 to include Max runtimes on 3 different RCR123's:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/257321

ZL claims .9H (54 min) on Max but I was only able to get 37min using an AW_IMR. I would love to know which battery and the test conditions used by ZL in order to get the figure they quoted.

Cheers,
Tim


----------



## ZebraLight (Feb 27, 2010)

turboBB said:


> I've now updated my review of the SC30 to include Max runtimes on 3 different RCR123's:
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/257321
> 
> ZL claims .9H (54 min) on Max but I was only able to get 37min using an AW_IMR. I would love to know which battery and the test conditions used by ZL in order to get the figure they quoted.
> ...


 
Panasonic CR123A lithium primary.


----------



## uplite (Feb 27, 2010)

Swedpat said:


> I am considering to get Nitecore D10 SP and EX10 SP, but these Zebralights are also really attractive. Another difficult choice for an incurable flashoholic...:thinking:


D10 and EX10 look good. If they came with neutral-white LEDs, I probably would have bought them instead of the QuarkAA and Quark123 last year.

The Zebralights have a huge advantage with the side switch. You can use it in overhand grip (ideal for searching, or looking straight down) or underhand grip (ideal for walking/hiking/running). Tail-switch lights like the nitecores are overhand-grip only.

Zebralights also have higher max and lower low modes, and they have a neutral-white option.

Seems like a pretty easy choice to me. 

-Jeff


----------



## Swedpat (Feb 27, 2010)

uplite said:


> D10 and EX10 look good. If they came with neutral-white LEDs, I probably would have bought them instead of the QuarkAA and Quark123 last year.
> 
> The Zebralights have a huge advantage with the side switch. You can use it in overhand grip (ideal for searching, or looking straight down) or underhand grip (ideal for walking/hiking/running). Tail-switch lights like the nitecores are overhand-grip only.
> 
> ...



Actually I like this odd design, and it looks like these Zebralights are made for hold comfort (as much as possible with such small lights). 
The brightness levels are well spaced, and they are available in neutral-white, so I guess it's not very much to doubt about.
The question is if the side switch makes it easy to accidently push on the light?

Apart from that I will be ensured about adequate regulation before decision.

Regards, Patric


----------



## turboBB (Feb 27, 2010)

ZebraLight said:


> Panasonic CR123A lithium primary.


 
Thx ZL! That is exactly what I HAVEN'T tested since I don't use primaries.

BTW, just made minor modification to the chart and added some clarification around the data.

Cheers,
Tim


----------



## Flashlike (Feb 27, 2010)

uplite said:


> ...If this works out, I will have some extra screws for anyone else who wants to mod their zebralight clip...-Jeff



Jeff--I would like to request a couple of these black screws from you (if they work out) but you don't use PM so how would I contact you, etc.?


----------



## uplite (Feb 27, 2010)

Flashlike said:


> Jeff--I would like to request a couple of these black screws from you (if they work out) but you don't use PM so how would I contact you, etc.?


Sure...PM works fine on my end. 

fyi, I bought 2 packs of *these screws*, plus a bunch of extra 1.5mm hex wrenches. Hex wrenches actually cost less per piece than the screws. 

I thought I'd try them on my light, then offer the extras to the community. I also have some spare music wire for making clips, but I don't know whether it should be 3/64" or 1/16" until I try it. And I won't have my SC50w for at least another month... :candle:

Tell you what...if you promise to post a picture of how you use the screws (for your SC30/SC50 clip), I'll send 2 screws and a hex key to you now. I'd love to see what other folks do with their clips on these lights! 

-Jeff


----------



## kaichu dento (Feb 27, 2010)

uplite said:


> Tail-switch lights like the nitecores are overhand-grip only.


I almost never use overhand grip, but rather cigar grip and have no problem using any of my tail-switch lights that way.


----------



## uplite (Feb 27, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> I almost never use overhand grip, but rather cigar grip and have no problem using any of my tail-switch lights that way.


Cigar grip is just another type of overhand grip. The tips of your fingers still point more-or-less DOWN.

Underhand grip is when your fingertips point UP.

Big difference. Try it while holding a flashlight and you'll see. The overhand grips suck when you are on the move (walk, hike, jog, run).

-Jeff


----------



## kaichu dento (Feb 28, 2010)

uplite said:


> Cigar grip is just another type of overhand grip. The tips of your fingers still point more-or-less DOWN.
> 
> Underhand grip is when your fingertips point UP.
> 
> Big difference. Try it while holding a flashlight and you'll see. The overhand grips suck when you are on the move (walk, hike, jog, run).


Regardless of how you care to call it I don't see it that way and have run a lot using this grip.

We're in agreeance about overhand not being good for running, but cigar grip is not overhand and works just fine. Try it and you'll see there is no problem with it, in fact you can even climb and use the hand your light is in with this grip.


----------



## Grumpy (Feb 28, 2010)

turboBB said:


> I've now updated my review of the SC30 to include Max runtimes on 3 different RCR123's:
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/257321
> 
> ZL claims .9H (54 min) on Max but I was only able to get 37min using an AW_IMR. I would love to know which battery and the test conditions used by ZL in order to get the figure they quoted.
> ...



I just performed 2 runtime tests with my AW R123 protected batteries and I got 42 minutes on one battery and 47 minutes with the other. I used my Pila IBC to charge the batteries and also held the light in my hand for cooling during the test. I had it set at its highest setting.

I also tested it with one of the batteries on the second highest setting and it ran for over 1hr 30minutes. 

I hope to get some primary batteries to test out soon.


----------



## uplite (Feb 28, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> We're in agreeance about overhand not being good for running, but cigar grip is not overhand and works just fine. Try it and you'll see there is no problem with it, in fact you can even climb and use the hand your light is in with this grip.


OK, forget about our different definitions of "overhand grip".

Try both cigar grip, and underhand grip, around waist level, and it should be obvious which one is a contortion of your wrist and which one is a natural grip.

If you're climbing, in the dark, for real, you need a headlamp. Not some contorted hand-hold on a light that won't illuminate anywhere you need because your fingers are serving a more important purpose. I'm a 2-3 times/week rock climber, btw. 

-Jeff


----------



## kaichu dento (Feb 28, 2010)

uplite said:


> OK, forget about our different definitions of "overhand grip".
> 
> Try both cigar grip, and underhand grip, around waist level, and it should be obvious which one is a contortion of your wrist and which one is a natural grip.
> 
> ...


Are you suggesting that I've never held a flashlight that way and that it's impossible for me to have a preference different from yours that serves me better? It sure sounds like another case of 'my way or no way'.

Just drop it and don't tell the rest of us how to hold a light. :shakehead


----------



## uplite (Feb 28, 2010)

kaichu, I'm sorry that you were so offended by this discussion.  Really...use whatever grip works for you. 

I'm just talking about basic biomechanics. Overhand & cigar grips are good for some things. Underhand grip is better for some things. I use both, in the situations where they are appropriate.

Actually, you can use overhand or underhand grip with any small cylindrical light. The nice thing about the new Zebralights is, you can use either grip AND turn it on/off, change modes, etc, without changing the grip. You can't do it with one of the generic cheap-to-manufacture tail-switch lights.

ymmv, of course. Everyone has to try the different grips themselves in the situations where they use their lights, and see for themselves. 

-Jeff


----------



## turboBB (Feb 28, 2010)

Grumpy said:


> I just performed 2 runtime tests with my AW R123 protected batteries and I got 42 minutes on one battery and 47 minutes with the other. I used my Pila IBC to charge the batteries and also held the light in my hand for cooling during the test. I had it set at its highest setting.
> 
> I also tested it with one of the batteries on the second highest setting and it ran for over 1hr 30minutes.
> 
> I hope to get some primary batteries to test out soon.


 
Time to get me some AW R123's... 

The 37 min I got w/the IMR ran it down to 3.25V... NOT GOOD for the cell in the long run.

Did you happen to check the ending voltage after each run? Would be good to know what V the protection kicks in at w/these AW protected cells.

Cheers,
Tim


----------



## Grumpy (Feb 28, 2010)

turboBB said:


> Time to get me some AW R123's...
> 
> The 37 min I got w/the IMR ran it down to 3.25V... NOT GOOD for the cell in the long run.
> 
> ...



I didn't think to check the ending voltage as I will try to recharge most of the time before the protection circuit kicks in. I also didn't check to see if the light would come back on. I know that this light does not have low voltage protection but I think that I read somewhere that the driver stops working below 2.1 volts or so. I wish that I had checked to see if the light would have turned back on after a minute or so to see if it would run any longer at a reduced level.


----------



## kaichu dento (Feb 28, 2010)

uplite said:


> kaichu, I'm sorry that you were so offended by this discussion.  Really...use whatever grip works for you.
> 
> I'm just talking about basic biomechanics. Overhand & cigar grips are good for some things. Underhand grip is better for some things. I use both, in the situations where they are appropriate.
> 
> ...


We may have partially missed some of each others drift due to keyboard conversations weaknesses, especially in light of what you've just posted, which I think by and large mirrors my feelings on the matter of which grip works best.

Usually when I see someone doing something in a manner different from the way I would, I either find it simply interesting that we all have various methods which work good for one, and not at all for another, or try to give it some thought to see if I hadn't previously given a particular method a fair enough shake. 

Sorry to have gotten on opposite sides with you as I really value a lot of your posts.


----------



## uplite (Mar 1, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> Sorry to have gotten on opposite sides with you as I really value a lot of your posts.


Ditto. 

So now I'm wondering...is an SC30 short enough to use it in mouth-grip and switch modes with my lips? 

-Jeff


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## kaichu dento (Mar 1, 2010)

uplite said:


> So now I'm wondering...is an SC30 short enough to use it in mouth-grip and switch modes with my lips?



 :laughing:


----------



## KDOG3 (Mar 1, 2010)

The Zebralight website says its "American owned and operated". Thats' cool, but where are the lights actually manufactured?


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## wapkil (Mar 1, 2010)

Well, there are so many oversees countries where flashlights are manufactured nowadays... They sell their products on taobao, they use some strange characters on their website - I think it means the lights must be manufactured somewhere in Europe :nana:


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## dealgrabber2002 (Mar 5, 2010)

I was told awhile back that there will be a sc30f... wonder when is it coming out.


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## Shorty66 (Mar 11, 2010)

Any news on the H51 or the SC30f?


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## uplite (Mar 11, 2010)

I'm not sure I understand why zebralight would make an SC30f (side-click flood light). 

I mean...the strength of a broad flood light is that it lets you get useful work done within a 1-10 foot radius without moving a narrow beam all over the place...and if you want to get stuff done, you probably want your hands free...so a headlamp/necklamp/chestlamp like the H30 or H501 makes more sense.

Plus you can already use an H30 or H501 as a handheld or tabletop light.

Am I missing something here, or is the SC30f just a collector-concept light? How do you guys plan to use it?

-Jeff


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## Owen (Mar 11, 2010)

Why wouldn't they make it?
I would think the flood models would be the most practical of their handheld lights. Most use is close up, most lights have focused beams, and most people don't go around with flashlights strapped to their heads. For the car, house, basement, restaurant, movies, etc. you don't need a bright light with lots of throw, you need a dim flood so you can see where you're going, and read or find stuff.


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## uplite (Mar 11, 2010)

Owen said:


> Why wouldn't they make it?


I assume it is expensive & risky for a small manufacturer like ZL to design, produce, test, stock, and sell another product, especially when it competes with their other products. It only makes sense if they will sell more of all products combined. :shrug:

Just me, but I don't see the point. If I hold a flashlight in my hand, it is so I can point the light precisely to inspect something or search somewhere or spot at a distance. By definition, those are all focused-beam activities.

If you must use a flashlight in a restaurant or theatre for some reason, a dim narrow beam is more polite than a broad flood beam. Plus it uses much less power than a flood for the same surface brightness, and it keeps more of your dark-adapted vision intact, so it works even better.

Anyway, the side-emitter zebralights already work fine as handheld flood lights...and also on your head, around your neck, clipped on your chest, clipped to your belt, etc. They are far more versatile than any end-emitter flood light could be.

But that's just my opinion. If enough guys like you and dealgrabber are committed to buy an SC30f, then it makes sense for ZL to make it. :thumbsup:

-Jeff


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## Egsise (Mar 11, 2010)

uplite said:


> Actually, you can use overhand or underhand grip with any small cylindrical light. The nice thing about the new Zebralights is, you can use either grip AND turn it on/off, change modes, etc, without changing the grip. You can't do it with one of the generic cheap-to-manufacture tail-switch lights.
> 
> ymmv, of course. Everyone has to try the different grips themselves in the situations where they use their lights, and see for themselves.
> 
> -Jeff


Interesting point, usually I have very little or no need to switch modes or turn off/on the light when I'm outdoors hiking etc.


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## uplite (Mar 12, 2010)

Egsise said:


> Interesting point, usually I have very little or no need to switch modes or turn off/on the light when I'm outdoors hiking etc.


Everyone's different. 

FWIW, when I night-hike, I use an H501w (zebralight flood) around my neck for "horse sense" ambient ground lighting, plus a small throwy light (now Quark123w, soon SC50w) in my hand for trailfinding, orientation, and distance spotting.

The H501 is always on, providing _just_ enough light for my feet to find their own way without thinking. Desert, beach, fire road, flat trail...I set it on Low. Bumpy trail with rocks, roots, etc...Medium. Scrambling, bushwhacking, creek crossing...High.

The handheld light I mostly use in quick bursts of High mode, a few seconds at a time, to get the lay of the land. Short bursts keep my dark vision adapted, so the diffuse flood is still enough to hike by. I only leave it on for critical scrambles & crossings where I need to see ~exactly~ what each handhold and foothold looks like.

The Quark123 does a pretty good job right now as that handheld light. My only complaints are that the mode switching is klunky (so I only use High) and the tail switch does not allow for quick bursts in a natural walking grip (underhand, waist level). That's why I bought an SC50w. I'm looking forward to giving it a workout in the mountains this spring!

-Jeff


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## TooManyGizmos (Mar 19, 2010)

No SC-50 comments ?

Did nobody order that model ?

I'm still waiting on the BIG one .


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## hazna (Mar 19, 2010)

the shipping date for the sc50 has been changed. I seem to remember it being the 18th march. Estimated shipping now seems to be the 26th of march.

The sc50w from memory, has always been the 26th of march. I hope it doesn't change again.


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## gollum (Mar 19, 2010)

waiting for my sc30w

I really liked my original H30 and this format looks great

I have noticed that over the years most non-flashaholics don't realise flashlight switches can be hiding on the tail  (they are on most of my lights) this will hopefully stop the usual confused looks I get when I pass 
one to a work friend or whoever needs lumens

hopefully an 18650 won't be too long away


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## jblackwood (Mar 19, 2010)

uplite said:


> _Everyone's different.  ...
> Ain't that the truth?
> 
> 
> ...



I think the ideal light for your handheld use would be the SC50w form factor with an RA Tactical UI. It recognizes when you hold down the button as a momentary (on the highest setting) and turns it off when you release, but like almost all other lights we discuss on this forum has the button on the tail. I hear Henry is coming out with a headlamp soon. 

I for one am really excited about these lights because of their form factor. In fact, that's the only reason I haven't cancelled my order since the money I have tied up in them could have been used for other endeavors.


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## uplite (Mar 19, 2010)

jblackwood said:


> I think the ideal light for your handheld use would be the SC50w form factor with an RA Tactical UI. It recognizes when you hold down the button as a momentary (on the highest setting) and turns it off when you release


Actually the Zebralight UI is the closest I have found to "ideal".

The switch only controls the microprocessor, not the current to the LED, so it is very light to press. It's nothing like the "hassle" of pressing a hard reverse-clicky tail switch once to turn on, and again to turn off. Plus it has the added benefit of jumping directly to the mode I want. Or holding it down to cycle modes at any time. Or double-clicking to access additional modes. :thumbsup:

BTW, I am NOT a Zebralight fanboy. I'm not the religious type. I just think that ZL has done a better job at this than any other light I've seen so far.

-Jeff


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## jblackwood (Mar 19, 2010)

uplite said:


> Actually the Zebralight UI is the closest I have found to "ideal".
> 
> The switch only controls the microprocessor, not the current to the LED, so it is very light to press. It's nothing like the "hassle" of pressing a hard reverse-clicky tail switch once to turn on, and again to turn off. Plus it has the added benefit of jumping directly to the mode I want. Or holding it down to cycle modes at any time. Or double-clicking to access additional modes. :thumbsup:
> 
> ...



Yeah, I have lights from both makers (RA and Zebra) and they're practically the same amount of pressure to activate with the same type of light click to activate.


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## uplite (Mar 19, 2010)

jblackwood said:


> Yeah, I have lights from both makers (RA and Zebra) and they're practically the same amount of pressure to activate with the same type of light click to activate.


 Thanks JB.

Does the RA also jump directly to the mode you want (H or M or L) on demand, or cycle thru the modes when you hold the button, or provide additional modes/levels when you double-click?

-Jeff


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## jblackwood (Mar 19, 2010)

uplite said:


> Thanks JB.
> 
> Does the RA also jump directly to the mode you want (H or M or L) on demand, or cycle thru the modes when you hold the button, or provide additional modes/levels when you double-click?
> 
> -Jeff



Nope, you've got me on that one!  (Actually, it does change modes when you double click after you click it on)
But you CAN program it to come on to one of 23 levels. Also, there are three levels that come on with discreet click codes (double clicks switch between the two when you first turn it on and three clicks gives you the third level, plus there's a press and hold level that is on strobe by default but I think you can change it if you get into programming). 
Personally, I like having the momentary that's recognized with the long press and thought you might be able to appreciate that for your use even though the button is still on the tailcap so it's still not perfect for you. :thumbsdow

Zebralight and RA lights make the best mass-produced buttons on flashlights, IMO.


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## Shorty66 (Mar 21, 2010)

a Zebralight with momentary high level and click to cycle from low to high aswell as the double click to change and save modes would be awesome!

If you would like to still be able to access the high level fast without the need to hold the button ZL could have the option to click after momentary use to get to high mode.

In short:
from off:
Press and hold for momentary High
Click to low
(optional)Press and hold for momentary high, release and click again for high.
from on:
Click and hold to cycle through low, med, high
double click to change modes and reach strobe.

That way you could reach the high level either by three short clicks or by releasing the momentary mode and a short click if you realise you need the light to shine longer.


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## NonSenCe (Mar 23, 2010)

About that PROTOTYPE. Any updates? 

wishlist: warm tint also to that.

CLIP atleast switchable to other side of the light. (if not bezel up and down reversable is not possible.) because i would clip in on my rightside trouser pocket. and if the bezel is pointing up i would prefer the on/off button to be so that it would point to back when clipped into pocket. not front like it would be according to the design sketch.

if its set like that as its on the sketch i would be forced when pulling it out of the pocket to either turn the light on by my forefinger or turn it around in my hand before turning it on by my thumb. (and that is inconvinient manouver)


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## olrac (Mar 24, 2010)

The prototype has a strange body design, I am anxious to see it in person and yes a warm version is a must


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## dealgrabber2002 (Mar 24, 2010)

olrac said:


> The prototype has a strange body design, I am anxious to see it in person and yes a warm version is a must


 
It's strange, but somehow I like it... Flat side means anti-roll. Can't wait... As for warm version... I prefer neutral white. But that's just me.

BTW: looking at the prototype, it seems like it was designed by a lefty engineer. lol... you can see the groove on the opposite side of the clip where the fingers suppose to be.


----------



## MojaveMoon07 (Apr 1, 2010)

Zebralight now lists the SC50 and SC50w as "_Availability: 
In Stock_"


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## hazna (Apr 1, 2010)

anyone bought it yet? Hoping to see some reviews before I jump the gun... I might jump the gun away


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## Ajay (Apr 1, 2010)

I just ordered one. I got a $5 discount with coupon apr1l.

:devil:


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## hazna (Apr 1, 2010)

is that coupon for the zebralight store? Where abouts did you find the coupon?


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## NonSenCe (Apr 1, 2010)

available.. very cool. will resist till i hear someone getting one in their hands.. 

and i think that discount code is for "april fools" 1st of april is april fools day.. 

if it is real deal.. then i believe i cant resist.


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## hazna (Apr 1, 2010)

http://www.illuminationgear.com/184082.html

If this is correct... the sc50w is a R2-neutral white!? Some how I can't help but think this is a typo. If it is a R2-neutral white, i'm definitely down for one


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## Brasso (Apr 1, 2010)

It is. They haven't gone to the xpg yet.


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## madmook (Apr 1, 2010)

Ajay said:


> I just ordered one. I got a $5 discount with coupon apr1l.
> 
> :devil:


Oh for cryin' out loud, I just ordered one from them last night... how the heck did you know about any coupon code?


----------



## qtaco (Apr 1, 2010)

He'd probably joking; there isn't a coupon option on the order page as far as I can see.


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## uplite (Apr 1, 2010)

I just received my SC50w shipping notice! 

Based on messages in this thread, I _think_ ZL used XPE Q4-5B4 for the neutral white SC30w & SC50w. R2 would be a nice surprise.

Actually I received a few XPE R2-4D emitters from Cutter this week...but I'm not about to rip into my SC50w for just a couple more flux bins.  One of the R2-4D's will go in my Quark123...that's an easy mod. The others will go in my first hack-job little lights, 10440 or 14500 with small ledil optics. 

-Jeff


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## swxb12 (Apr 2, 2010)

uplite said:


> I just received my SC50w shipping notice!
> 
> Based on messages in this thread, I _think_ ZL used XPE Q4-5B4 for the neutral white SC30w & SC50w. R2 would be a nice surprise.
> 
> ...



Wow, congrats! I admit I've been having a hard time holding off from the SC50*w*. A little concerned about the switch being easy to turn on in pockets (based on SC30 comments). Maybe it's overblown? *Shrug*


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## hazna (Apr 2, 2010)

I sent zebralight a message... they are saying its a Q4 neutral white


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## swxb12 (Apr 2, 2010)

Boy am I weak, SC50 ordered. 

"Low: *4.4 *Lm (4 days) or *0.6 *Lm (22 days)"

That sure didn't help with my decision :twothumbs


----------



## Tixx (Apr 2, 2010)

swxb12 said:


> Wow, congrats! I admit I've been having a hard time holding off from the SC50*w*. A little concerned about the switch being easy to turn on in pockets (based on SC30 comments). Maybe it's overblown? *Shrug*



I think I was the first to report a burning pocket. An 8th of a twist on the tail end and no more worries. Overblown, no, burning pocket, yes, solved, yes.


----------



## ky70 (Apr 2, 2010)

uplite said:


> I just received my SC50w shipping notice!
> 
> Based on messages in this thread, I _think_ ZL used XPE Q4-5B4 for the neutral white SC30w & SC50w. R2 would be a nice surprise.



I'm really, really thinking about picking up this light...congrats on being one of the first to get a light en route.

I'm always looking for the most powerful output option though so could you (or someone else) talk about the attraction to neutral beams at the expense of output? Thanks.


----------



## Tixx (Apr 2, 2010)

ky70 said:


> I'm really, really thinking about picking up this light...congrats on being one of the first to get a light en route.
> 
> I'm always looking for the most powerful output option though so could you (or someone else) talk about the attraction to neutral beams at the expense of output? Thanks.



Just tried a neutral recently (always a highest output guy) and being able to see colors the way they are meant to be seen is really nice. I'm not necessarily a die hard neutral, but I have ordered a neutral head for one of my lights, have the SC30 & SC30w and the new headlamp coming in neutral as well. Next camping trip will be all neutral lights and expect that I will be a convert after that. Not sure where to find, but would be nice for some real life comparisons, not just side by side wall shots that don't show the difference in colors under each light. Take away 30 lumens from the SC30 and in return you get great color distinction and not that washed out look. Well, back to these lights. They are great! Not going for the AA ones though as they are the same diameter and longer than the SC30 versions with less output (still like as much as I can get!)


----------



## ky70 (Apr 2, 2010)

Tixx said:


> Just tried a neutral recently (always a highest output guy) and being able to see colors the way they are meant to be seen is really nice. I'm not necessarily a die hard neutral, but I have ordered a neutral head for one of my lights, have the SC30 & SC30w and the new headlamp coming in neutral as well. Next camping trip will be all neutral lights and expect that I will be a convert after that. Not sure where to find, but would be nice for some real life comparisons, not just side by side wall shots that don't show the difference in colors under each light. Take away 30 lumens from the SC30 and in return you get great color distinction and not that washed out look. Well, back to these lights. They are great! Not going for the AA ones though as they are the same diameter and longer than the SC30 versions with less output (still like as much as I can get!)


Thank You Tixx. I appreciate your input. How would you describe the difference in output between the SC30/SC30W...is the SC30 noticeably pushing out more light?

About the output of SC50 series, I would be running this light on a 14500 cell so I would get the same max output as the SC30 lights.


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## yatsunil (Apr 2, 2010)

Tixx said:


> Just tried a neutral recently (always a highest output guy) and being able to see colors the way they are meant to be seen is really nice. I'm not necessarily a die hard neutral, but I have ordered a neutral head for one of my lights, have the SC30 & SC30w and the new headlamp coming in neutral as well. Next camping trip will be all neutral lights and expect that I will be a convert after that. Not sure where to find, but would be nice for some real life comparisons, not just side by side wall shots that don't show the difference in colors under each light. Take away 30 lumens from the SC30 and in return you get great color distinction and not that washed out look. Well, back to these lights. They are great! Not going for the AA ones though as they are the same diameter and longer than the SC30 versions with less output (still like as much as I can get!)


 
Agree with you on the need to get real life comparisons. I've the H31 on order and am seriously tempted to try the SC30w. I know....I know...resistance is futile


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## Tixx (Apr 2, 2010)

ky70 said:


> Thank You Tixx. I appreciate your input. How would you describe the difference in output between the SC30/SC30W...is the SC30 noticeably pushing out more light?
> 
> About the output of SC50 series, I would be running this light on a 14500 cell so I would get the same max output as the SC30 lights.



Yeah, you can tell it is a little brighter. But you can also tell the colors of the objects are no doubt more washed out. I would say try just one. If you don't like it, put it up for sale in the MarketPlace (it will go quickly). I always thought all the people asking for lower lumens were nuts until I tried one.


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## Tixx (Apr 2, 2010)

yatsunil said:


> Agree with you on the need to get real life comparisons. I've the H31 on order and am seriously tempted to try the SC30w. I know....I know...resistance is futile



I have the H31 and H31w on order. Wish the new neutral was used on these though. Maybe someone will point to a thread with those shots I hope. Think it would really help people decide which is better for them.


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## DaFABRICATA (Apr 2, 2010)

Tixx said:


> I have the H31 and H31w on order. Wish the new neutral was used on these though. Maybe someone will point to a thread with those shots I hope. Think it would really help people decide which is better for them.


 



Considering the H31 is still about 2 weeks away from zebralights release and the H31W is still about a month away from release, it will be a while before some beamshots are posted up. 
My guess is, since the H31W uses the XP-E, the beamshots are probably the same or close to the SC30W.
As for the H31...with the XP-G, the hot spot is probably larger.

I have both on order too and will post beamshots if someone doesn't beat me to it......damn the wait sucks for new lights!!


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## NonSenCe (Apr 2, 2010)

i honestly believed to wait till first rewiews of these sc50w before ordering.. but couldnt. had to order one.


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## ky70 (Apr 2, 2010)

Tixx said:


> I have the H31 and H31w on order. Wish the new neutral was used on these though. Maybe someone will point to a thread with those shots I hope. Think it would really help people decide which is better for them.


 
I just started looking into the H31 this morning, and that looks like a winner. Functionally, can the H31 EDC'd for pocket carry? It reportedly comes with the same clip as the H30 uses and that clip looks pretty reliable from the shots/video I've seen. I actually have no need for a headlight but I'm wondering if the H31 can pocket carried daily as a general use light.


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## madmook (Apr 2, 2010)

I've also got a SC50w on its way to me from ZL. I love the SC30w I already have, so the AA-batt version was a must-have.

Question for Zebralight, if they are reading: I see from the specs that if I use a 14500 (li-ion) battery, I can get the higher max output (169 lumens vs. 107 on AA). But I'd rather be able to use the 107 high output with a 14500 battery to get longer runtime instead of the strobe mode (which was not missed at all by me on my SC30w). Possible? If not, maybe just food-for-thought on future revisions...


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## jblackwood (Apr 3, 2010)

Just got my SC50. The only bad part was that I pre-ordered both versions, regular and warm. I only got the regular! :shakehead Email is already in their queue but I just wanted to moan a bit . . . 

Moaning done! I'm going to look at some more SC30 pics since I passed on that version, but weren't the cooling fins directly pushing on the clip on that light? My SC50 has a nice flat piece of aluminum under the clip that will still hold but won't tear up my pants if I carry it. If it's a design change, I'm stoked and glad I waited!

EDIT: Yep. Those pictures of the clip of the SC30 sure are explicit. The clip on the SC50 rests on a flat, non-finned surface which makes this light much more friendly to my khakis!


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## Misan (Apr 3, 2010)

For more than a month of enjoying my Zebra SC30w :twothumbs


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## Tixx (Apr 3, 2010)

Misan said:


> For more than a month of enjoying my Zebra SC30w :twothumbs


These pics make the body look short like it could take a CR2.


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## ky70 (Apr 3, 2010)

Tixx said:


> These pics make the body look short like it could take a CR2.


I believe this light is the smallest out that uses a cr123 battery and is a clicky.


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## damn_hammer (Apr 3, 2010)

I'll admit to not reading the dozen plus pages of this thread, but a search of it came up empty. Does anyone know why ZL is holding back using the XP-G on the SC30/50? The dimensions of the SC30 are impressive at a stated length of 2.6 inches.


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## hazna (Apr 3, 2010)

damn_hammer said:


> I'll admit to not reading the dozen plus pages of this thread, but a search of it came up empty. Does anyone know why ZL is holding back using the XP-G on the SC30/50? The dimensions of the SC30 are impressive at a stated length of 2.6 inches.



Yeah I don't know why it is not coming out with an XP-G... maybe they couldn't source them cheaply enough before the production deadline? :shrug: The H31 is coming in an XP-G flavour, so I assume the H51 would be coming in XP-G as well. I'm now tossing up between getting the sc50 or waiting for the H51 (no date given yet). I'd prefer more of a flashlight than headlamp, so I think I'd be getting the sc50 even though it doesn't have an XP-G


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## Misan (Apr 4, 2010)




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## jblackwood (Apr 4, 2010)

The tint is the nicest I've seen on a warm light, with the exception of the high CRI light Henry uses on the RA clicky. The side clicky is really nice, though I have to keep telling myself I don't need to switch my grip to adjust the levels while it's in my hand!  Using a 14500 in it makes it a real pocket blaster, too! I might have to get more of those. :devil:


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## jblackwood (Apr 4, 2010)

hazna said:


> I'd prefer more of a flashlight than headlamp, so I think I'd be getting the sc50 even though it doesn't have an XP-G



You'll be much more happy in this hobby if you quit chasing the latest and greatest emitter and examine your uses more, which it looks like you have. Jump on it, though. They had to ship my warm model separately (not sure why) but I can imagine that it took a little longer for their warm shipment to get in. Either way, I've got them both now and am very happy.


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## carl (Apr 5, 2010)

damn_hammer said:


> I'll admit to not reading the dozen plus pages of this thread, but a search of it came up empty. Does anyone know why ZL is holding back using the XP-G on the SC30/50? The dimensions of the SC30 are impressive at a stated length of 2.6 inches.



I could be wrong but i thought the XP-G is:

1) not ideal at low power - more green.
2) not ideal for throw - larger die means more spill and less throw at any given power level.
3) It is better for a higher power light - e.g. a 2XCR123 light.


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## damn_hammer (Apr 5, 2010)

carl said:


> I could be wrong but i thought the XP-G is:
> 
> 1) not ideal at low power - more green.
> 2) not ideal for throw - larger die means more spill and less throw at any given power level.
> 3) It is better for a higher power light - e.g. a 2XCR123 light.




Anecdotally I haven't found your points one, and three to be true. I've noticed no green tint at any output level on my Preon I Ti that uses XP-G. I think green tint would be less of an issue now that Cree released neutral, and warm tint XP-G's. 

I'm fine with the cost of less throw if it means a more efficient emitter. I'm not waiting for what's next in LED's, just what is now.

I almost got the H31 until ZL confirmed they're using the rubber, friction, wire clip that adds unneeded bulk (IMHO). The clip on the SC30/50 looks very clean, and seems like a better option. I have the H501 so can wait it out for a XP-G in the SC30, or a different clip on the H31.


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## ky70 (Apr 5, 2010)

Can anyone talk more about the clip issue with the SC30? I've seen a couple of posts that mentioned that the SC30 clip was not ideal, because it was may be too tight and/or something about issues with the fins underneath the clip? How did the SC50 solve this "issue"?

I'm still trying to decide between the SC50 vs. SC30 or H31. I just have a thing for CR123 lights.


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## damn_hammer (Apr 5, 2010)

ky70 said:


> Can anyone talk more about the clip issue with the SC30? I've seen a couple of posts that mentioned that the SC30 clip was not idea, because it was may be too tight and/or something about issues with the fins underneath the clip? How did the SC50 solve this "issue"?
> 
> I'm still trying to decide between the SC50 vs. SC30 or H31. I just have a thing for CR123 lights.



There are fins/grooves on the head of the SC30 directly below where the open end of the clip contacts the head which I think can cause excessive wear when repeatedly clipped, and unclipped from the same location. The SC50 there is flat (non-finned/grooved) aluminum under the profile of the clip reducing the potential for wear. This can be seen if you look closely at the pictures located on the ZL website, and compare:



SC50



SC30

[edit]
I don't own either of these lights. I've been circling over several 1xCR123 lights myself, and like ALMOST everything about the SC30. The clip+finned head doesn't worry me much, but welcome a SC50 like flat contact point on subsequent SC30 production runs. The emitter choice by ZL is what's holding me back.


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## Misan (Apr 5, 2010)

ky70 said:


> Can anyone talk more about the clip issue with the SC30? I've seen a couple of posts that mentioned that the SC30 clip was not idea, because it was may be too tight and/or something about issues with the fins underneath the clip?


SC30 clip pretty tight, but its shape allows you keep the flashlight is turned on/off/switch.


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## ky70 (Apr 5, 2010)

damn_hammer said:


> There are fins/grooves on the head of the SC30 directly below where the open end of the clip contacts the head which I think can cause excessive wear when repeatedly clipped, and unclipped from the same location. The SC50 there is flat (non-finned/grooved) aluminum under the profile of the clip reducing the potential for wear. This can be seen if you look closely at the pictures located on the ZL website, and compare:
> http://www.zebralight.com/SC50-Flashlight-AA-193Lm_p_24.html


 
Thanks Dh, that is a perfect illustration...nice work by zebralight to improve the clip design on the sc50. That confirms that I'd prefer the sc50 over the sc30.



Misan said:


> SC30 clip pretty tight, but its shape allows you keep the flashlight is turned on/off/switch.


 
Thanks Misan.


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## davidt1 (Apr 5, 2010)

I have decided to wait for the H51w. I hope Zebralight will:

1. Use a stronger spring than on the H501.

2. Give the light some flood; after all it's a headlamp.


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## jblackwood (Apr 5, 2010)

damn_hammer said:


> The emitter choice by ZL is what's holding me back.



In this case, and I imagine in many other cases as well, such as McGizmo, Ra Lights, and even Surefire, the emitter choice is going to hold you back from experiencing some seriously, nicely designed lights. There are no other lights that have this form factor or this UI and for the price, you simply can't go wrong. If emitter choice really has you held up, so be it, but you're really missing out. There, I've said my piece. I hope you find a light that satisfies you in every way. :thumbsup:


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## uplite (Apr 6, 2010)

jblackwood said:


> In this case, and I imagine in many other cases as well, such as McGizmo, Ra Lights, and even Surefire, the emitter choice is going to hold you back from experiencing some seriously, nicely designed lights.


+100

Many flashlight buyers seem unaware that LED lumens do not equate to perceived brightness.

For most lights, short to medium range use, you need 5 times the lumens for a light to appear 2 times as bright. That's just the way our eyes work. The difference between, for example, 100 lumens and 200 lumens is not very noticeable. The beam angle (reflector or lens design) makes a _much_ larger difference.

Also, although there was a big jump a few years ago, LED technology has been plateaued for a while. The LED manufacturers are mostly playing games with larger dies, different tints, etc. The "latest" LED is not necessarily the "greatest". Just like computer CPUs when they started to plateau 5 or 6 years ago. New LEDs right now are mostly a marketing game. Waiting for the next R&D breakthrough.

In the meantime, IMO, we should buy lights with the best design, not the latest LED. :thumbsup:

-Jeff


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## kaichu dento (Apr 6, 2010)

uplite said:


> IMO, we should buy lights with the best design, not the latest LED. :thumbsup:


Absolutely! Buy the best light for you now!


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## jblackwood (Apr 6, 2010)

Also, I'd like to amend my listing of manufacturers who don't use the XP-G yet for whatever reasons, the great Don himself has seen fit to start using them in his Haiku lights (forgot that!), so McGizmo is no longer on that list. He made the intelligent redesign, though, including designing a whole new reflector for a totally different emitter. I will point out, though, that he jumped from the XR-E to the XP-G, bypassing the XP-E. I'm sure his decisions had to do with cost versus gains made in performance of the light. Either way, he still has both XR-E and XP-G versions for sale, he sees them as that different.


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## swxb12 (Apr 7, 2010)

Received my SC50w yesterday.

Wow, what a compact light. The neutral tint is awesome. Pocket clip is nice and strong.

From the 'off mode' if you don't hold the switch down long enough while trying to access instant low there's a chance of seeing low mode flash on really quick, followed by max.  If you had held the switch down too long then it will hit low of course, but begin ramping to medium and so forth. I was going nuts for about a minute because I kept finding this "sweet spot" where I'd be blasted by high mode after trying to just get to low mode and stay there.

Managed to keep my cool and be more patient  and got my timing down. Everything good to go since then.

I'll try to get some tint comparison pics, really like this light. Congrats Zebra Light. Looking forward to losing more money to them in the near future


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## defloyd77 (Apr 7, 2010)

So what's the word on the flood models? I'd love an SC50WF.


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 7, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> I have decided to wait for the H51w. I hope Zebralight will:
> 
> 1. Use a stronger spring than on the H501.
> 
> 2. Give the light some flood; after all it's a headlamp.



I asked ZL about the upcoming H51 beam & was informed that it will be identical to the H31 beam & therefore the same as the SC series as well. 

On the plus side, the new UI has already been incorporated into the H501 & I am assuming the H501w will get is soon as well.

So it seems they are satisfied with the design & emitter performance from the existing design & it keeps R&D costs down.


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## ky70 (Apr 7, 2010)

FroggyTaco said:


> I asked ZL about the upcoming H51 beam & was informed that it will be identical to the H31 beam & therefore the same as the SC series as well.


 
The H31w will use an XP-E emitter where as the H31 will use the XP-G...so H31 will have a brighter and floodier beam than the H31w?


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## uplite (Apr 7, 2010)

ky70 said:


> The H31w will use an XP-E emitter where as the H31 will use the XP-G...so H31 will have a brighter and floodier beam than the H31w?


XPG floodier, yes. Brighter, depends on your definition. 

The higher XPG flux bins will put out more lumens, but the surface illumination of the beam is probably dimmer than the same light with XPE. Assuming the driver and reflector are the same.

-Jeff


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 7, 2010)

I just got the H501 with the updated UI & low has a new lower mode, but it is not a "moon mode" IMO. If default is 3.3L I would the lower is about 2L. I was hoping for about .5L low low.

Medium now has a "slow strobe" & high has the same "fast strobe"

Also it doesn't remember the lower settings after about 30 seconds. So you will have to double-click to get it into the sub-level essentially every time you use the light. Must have something to do with an updated design rather than a total redesign. Either way it is a welcome improvement over nothing.


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## Misan (Apr 7, 2010)

FroggyTaco said:


> updated UI


sorry for off, but what is mean? I just few days on the CPF and do not understand it well with the contractions.


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## Mostly (Apr 7, 2010)

Huh! When was it purchased... from ZebraLight site, I assume, not another dealer? 

I don't even know for certain if ZebraLight is pulse or current regulated, but assume it is current regulated because of the high efficiency. But I'm wondering if this "tweaked" interface is just playing tricks with with pulsing the light (to get the two strobes of course, but also to lower the low to 2 lumens via pulse regulation) at each level but using the same drive current the level is already at? That might explain why they aren't able to give it a true moon mode... there would be strobe effect to pulse regulate it at that low a level?

Misan-- ui = user interface


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 7, 2010)

Misan said:


> sorry for off, but what is mean? I just few days on the CPF and do not understand it well with the contractions.



UI=User Interface.

In other words, how you interact with the flashlight in order to make it operate.

As an example Microsoft & Apple both sell software to control computers, but they mostly differ in how the "User Interface" is administered.

Travis


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 7, 2010)

Mostly said:


> Huh! When was it purchased... from ZebraLight site, I assume, not another dealer?



Yes direct from ZL, on Monday after my UI questions were answered. 

To Quote them:

*Customer*
4/3/2010 4:01:55 PM  When this light releases, is it going to retain the existing all flood beam like the H501 or is it going to be like the new H31? 




 *Staff (Administrator)*
4/4/2010 7:07:39 AM  Hi Travis,

The H51 will have exactly the same beam pattern as the H31. 

BR,
Lillian Xu 



 *Customer*
4/4/2010 3:58:41 PM  Is the H501 going to recieve the updated UI allowing lower modes on low & medium settings? 



 *Staff (Administrator)*
4/5/2010 5:13:20 AM  The H501s (not H501w) shipped recently have revised UI already (double click in Med to 2Hz, double click in Low to Moon mode).

BR,
Lillian Xu


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## Mostly (Apr 7, 2010)

Cool! I'm not all that excited about the extra strobe (an extra medium level would be better), but a "moon mode" is a welcome upgrade. 

Is there any sign of strobe effect on the moon mode if you wave it back and forth rapidly, per my half-baked theory about pulse modulation?


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## davidt1 (Apr 7, 2010)

FroggyTaco said:


> I asked ZL about the upcoming H51 beam & was informed that it will be identical to the H31 beam & therefore the same as the SC series as well.
> 
> On the plus side, the new UI has already been incorporated into the H501 & I am assuming the H501w will get is soon as well.
> 
> So it seems they are satisfied with the design & emitter performance from the existing design & it keeps R&D costs down.


 
Thanks for the information. If the H and SC series have the same beam and throw, then the H51 makes more sense than the SC50 for me because it is more versatile. It's a headlamp than can be used as a flashlight exactly like the SC50. 

I am really hoping they will use the XP-G emitter in the H51 because this emitter has appeared in flashlights six months ago. It's not new anymore. With the XP-G emitter, there will be a bigger hot spot which is useful for close-up work.


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 7, 2010)

Mostly said:


> Cool! I'm not all that excited about the extra strobe (an extra medium level would be better), but a "moon mode" is a welcome upgrade.
> 
> Is there any sign of strobe effect on the moon mode if you wave it back and forth rapidly, per my half-baked theory about pulse modulation?




Well I have never owned a low PWM refresh rate light so I have not personally seen it, but I do understand the concept from what I have seen with low refresh rates on LCD & CRT monitors. For example a 60Hz CRT refresh rate is visually noticeable & headache inducing for me. I tried to make a picture for you but I no longer own a DSLR :mecry: so I will have to make do with this P&S. 

The photo is took with flash off is @ F2.8, ISO800, & 1sec exposure. Light is about 6" from the wall & I am moving it across the wall rapidly. There may be 1-2 passes in the exposure, but I do not see any flicker in RL or the photo.


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## swxb12 (Apr 7, 2010)

*Re: SC50w*


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## Mostly (Apr 7, 2010)

Thanks FroggyTaco! I didn't expect a photo! 

You could also do that in front of a mirror... 

A visible strobe effect could have proven my half-baked theory, but I'm happy to leave it unproven since it means there's no visible strobe effect. The main thing is that if moon mode is pwm, it seems rapid enough to be unnoticeable and plenty good enough to read by. :thumbsup:


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## chaoss (Apr 7, 2010)

Well i gave in and ordered a neutral tinted SC30w :thumbsup:.
I have to have an uber low, tailstandability and carry clip so this one may very well work out nicely. 

Thanks for all of the detailed info guys.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 7, 2010)

Sorry to bother, but what is the discount code for these?


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 8, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> Sorry to bother, but what is the discount code for these?



I am not aware of one. I ordered from Zebralight directly for the lowest price & free shipping. $59.00 to my door 2 days after I ordered Texas to Ca seems like a pretty decent deal for what these lights offer.


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## Misan (Apr 8, 2010)

Thanks *Mostly* & *FroggyTaco* for explanation. lovecpf
BTW, UI in SC30 satisfied me completely. I so happy that this device without SOS, strob and other flashing. :twothumbs


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## ky70 (Apr 8, 2010)

FroggyTaco said:


> I am not aware of one. I ordered from Zebralight directly for the lowest price & free shipping. $59.00 to my door 2 days after I ordered Texas to Ca seems like a pretty decent deal for what these lights offer.



I believe illuminationgear.com would be the cheapest as they have the same prices with free shipping (same day shipping) but with a discount on top. Look for illuminationgear.com over in the vendor discount thread over in the marketplace forum for details (I would put a link here but I'm posting from my phone and can't bounce around as easily).

I ordered my Eagletac t100c2 from there last month and I received the light in 3 days and communication was great.


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## carl (Apr 8, 2010)

I'm waiting for the S5200 2AA light to come out. First they said May-June, then June, now TBD. Hopefully they'll be making it before the year's out. 

For those who have a SC30 or SC50:

1) do you have any problems getting Lo right from the start?
2) Any problems wirh sharp edges around the switch?


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## Misan (Apr 8, 2010)

carl said:


> For those who have a SC30:
> 
> 1) do you have any problems getting Lo right from the start?
> 2) Any problems wirh sharp edges around the switch?


1) No any problems.

2) Look at the foto:


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## dealgrabber2002 (Apr 8, 2010)

Misan.

I notices there is a gab between the switch and the body, how water/weather proof is it?


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## ky70 (Apr 8, 2010)

I'm torn between the SC50 and the H31.

Why I favor the SC50 over H31:
* Throwier beam 
* Works on AAs (easy to find anywhere)
* Solid Clip (pocket carry is my favorite mode of transport)
* I actually like the strobe option in high mode when powered by a 14500
* Is available now (I'm so impatient and want to order my light tomorrow and have it by Tuesday/Wednesday)

Why I favor the H31 over SC50:
* Latest emitter with more lumens
* Versatility...can be worn around the neck or pocket/shirt clipped with removable clip (and can be used functionally in the different carrying positions)
* 2.57 inches long (I love em short and this one is only .27 inches/6.58mm longer than the Quark mini 123)
* I have RCR123s just sitting waiting for a flashlight to inhabit

While I know the CPF solution is to "get both", I really don't need/want 2 lights right now, so I basically don't know which 1 to buy.


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 8, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> Misan.
> 
> I notices there is a gab between the switch and the body, how water/weather proof is it?



I just looked at my SC50 & that is not a gap. The aluminum part is elliptical & the switch is round. What you are seeing is actually a shadow that makes that area darker so it loos like a gap.


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 8, 2010)

Buy both, decide which one is better for you, & sell the other one for a $5.00-$8.00 "loss". Consider it an investment in light satisfaction.

Travis



ky70 said:


> I'm torn between the SC50 and the H31.
> 
> Why I favor the SC50 over H31:
> * Throwier beam
> ...


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## Misan (Apr 8, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> Misan.
> 
> I notices there is a gab between the switch and the body, how water/weather proof is it?


Nothing like this had not noticed. In the water lowered. Everything all right.


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## ky70 (Apr 8, 2010)

FroggyTaco said:


> Buy both, decide which one is better for you, & sell the other one for a $5.00-$8.00 "loss". Consider it an investment in light satisfaction.
> 
> Travis


 
You, my friend, have made an excellent suggestion. Though I am concerned that if I get both of those pocket sunshine goodies in my hand, I'll be keeping both.


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## swxb12 (Apr 8, 2010)

carl said:


> I'm waiting for the S5200 2AA light to come out. First they said May-June, then June, now TBD. Hopefully they'll be making it before the year's out.
> 
> For those who have a SC30 or SC50:
> 
> ...



1. As long as you remember to hold down the switch long enough there's no issue with accessing low mode directly. I can also confirm that my light has saved itself in the lowest mode on 'low mode' even after battery change. Forget to hold it down for the full second (or whatever it is) and you'll be greeted with max 

2. As far as I know the only thing closest to a sharp edge in the switch area is the edge of the light's olive drab anodizing.


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## ky70 (Apr 9, 2010)

ky70 said:


> I'm torn between the SC50 and the H31.
> 
> Why I favor the SC50 over H31:
> * Throwier beam
> ...


 


FroggyTaco said:


> Buy both, decide which one is better for you, & sell the other one for a $5.00-$8.00 "loss". Consider it an investment in light satisfaction.
> 
> Travis


 
So I ordered the SC50 today from illuminationgear.com (my flashlight willpower is so weak). And I'll likely be unable to resist the H31 when that becomes available...after all, I do still have a spot in my rotation for a light running on a cr/rcr123 (my batteries need another "home").


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## carl (Apr 9, 2010)

Thanks to misan and swxb12 for your reassurances.
One more question: does ZL update emitters for particular models or do they typically stay with whatever emitter they started with for that model?


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## swxb12 (Apr 9, 2010)

carl said:


> Thanks to misan and swxb12 for your reassurances.
> One more question: does ZL update emitters for particular models or do they typically stay with whatever emitter they started with for that model?



As far as I know they typically stick with the specific emitter for a model. The only exceptions being a neutral white option offered along with the standard emitter. (edit: That's still sort of sticking with original emitters, I guess.)

Also, my original H50 headlamp was a Cree P4 but it was introduced and sold at the same time as the Q5 version with higher lumens.


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## carl (Apr 9, 2010)

ok, thanks. just wondering about the XP-E vs XP-G thing. No big difference but just wondering.


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## ky70 (Apr 9, 2010)

ky70 said:


> So I ordered the SC50 today from illuminationgear.com (my flashlight willpower is so weak). And I'll likely be unable to resist the H31 when that becomes available...after all, I do still have a spot in my rotation for a light running on a cr/rcr123 (my batteries need another "home").


 
Wow, I got shipping info already :twothumbs


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## NonSenCe (Apr 9, 2010)

i am anxious to see the prototype to come thru! now that i have played with my 50w for couple hours i cant wait! i want more! 

-i still wish they would atleast swap the side where the pocket clip is in the proto pic. the rubber/silicone shield (the yellow picture) sounds like a cool idea too. 

(bought the sc50w last week friday/saturday..and it arrived today, friday.. one week shipping to europe from zl.com, awesome!!)

havent found anything "wrong" with it yet. 

only kinda wish that the pocket clip werent chromed.. it looks little out of place in such an muted down looking light as this. it would be better anodized grey or black.. or even the same color as the body too. chrome/nickel just looks ..hmm.. too "bling-blingy" in it. (will likely paint it black myself.. or just heatshrink tube it like i did on my Ti quark.)


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## carl (Apr 10, 2010)

I'd like to see the prototype asap also. at least some pics or something.


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## edc3 (Apr 12, 2010)

I just pulled the trigger on an SC30. This is the first light I've bought this year and I'm very anxious to receive it. The UI sounds awesome. I'm a low, low addict AND a high lumen addict and I think this light covers both ends of that spectrum nicely. Looks like a winner! :thumbsup:


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## jason978 (Apr 12, 2010)

Is the sc50 supposed to NOT work at all when the battery runs down. I'm using AA NimH, sanyo and eneloops. I noticed that when the battery voltage drops to about 1.05 the light won't turn on at all at any level. Is that normal?


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## jblackwood (Apr 12, 2010)

I've got two. When I wear down the 14500's in them, I'll let you know. Since it's the same circuit as the H501, I wouldn't be surprised if it's supposed to blink, just like the H501. If you switch it down to a lower level, it should run for a bit, squeezing some energy out of the cell.

Other regulated lights, like the Zebralights, all cut off abruptly. The little warning is a welcome addition. Quarks, Fenixes, even Dereelights don't give you much warning before cutoff, though the Dereelight Javelin does give a much reduced output when the cells are getting low, but that can be hard to quantify.


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## ky70 (Apr 12, 2010)

jason978 said:


> Is the sc50 supposed to NOT work at all when the battery runs down. I'm using AA NimH, sanyo and eneloops. I noticed that when the battery voltage drops to about 1.05 the light won't turn on at all at any level. Is that normal?


Jason, I got my light today and have been toying with it for the past hour (love the UI). I threw an almost depleted Alkaline battery in the light to see if it could be cut on, and yes I did have a hard time getting the light to come on in high BUT that is to be expected as there isn't enough juice in the battery to power the light on high. I am however, able to turn the light on in medium or low without any issues...I'm even able to still cycle between the 2 levels of low and the 2 levels of medium. 

I'm able to access low/medium from off by double clicking for medium and triple clicking or 1 second long clicking for low. As I type I'm still draining this old alkaline in medium as I want to see what happens when there isn't enough juice to power medium (hopefully low will still work), but I'm officially impressed with this light.


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## Beacon of Light (Apr 12, 2010)

^ When you triple click from off it doesn't go High > medium > low?


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## jason978 (Apr 12, 2010)

mine would not light at all. not even low. completely dead. let us know what your light does.


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 12, 2010)

Beacon of Light said:


> ^ When you triple click from off it doesn't go High > medium > low?



It would be less battery straining to just hold the button since that will start the light in low & then ramp up from there.


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## ky70 (Apr 12, 2010)

Beacon of Light said:


> ^ When you triple click from off it doesn't go High > medium > low?


Fast triple click turns on the light in low mode (as does a 1 second long click), double click turns on in medium and single click turns on in high. Holding down the clicker, cycles repeatedly through L,M,H.



jason978 said:


> mine would not light at all. not even low. completely dead. let us know what your light does.


I wish I had a battery tester to test alkalines...it's approaching 3 hours and this thing is still going with both medium and low modes working and both levels still working in each mode. There has definitely been a loss of some output though as the 2 medium levels are now very close in brightness...and the highest low (L2) is not much dimmer than the lowest medium (M1). 

This is a battery I removed from a remote a few weeks ago that was no longer working in the remote and that would not come on in the light in high until I continuously cycled through the ramping until high appeared (took a couple of minutes of fidddeling for high to come on) and this high was very weak and only worked for a couple of minutes and then only medium and low was working. And for the past 3+ hours (as of right now...it's 11:17 cst...takes me forever to do a post this long on my phone) the light has been running constantly in medium except for times when I check to see if both levels are still available in both modes. I'm impressed and I'm giving up on trying to kill this battery (which is a cheap no name battery).

Edit/sidebar: interesting disparity between the actual time and last edited time stamp...I'm typing these comments at 11:23 CST


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## ZebraLight (Apr 13, 2010)

jblackwood said:


> I've got two. When I wear down the 14500's in them, I'll let you know. Since it's the same circuit as the H501, I wouldn't be surprised if it's supposed to blink, just like the H501. If you switch it down to a lower level, it should run for a bit, squeezing some energy out of the cell.
> 
> Other regulated lights, like the Zebralights, all cut off abruptly. The little warning is a welcome addition. Quarks, Fenixes, even Dereelights don't give you much warning before cutoff, though the Dereelight Javelin does give a much reduced output when the cells are getting low, but that can be hard to quantify.


 
Unlike the H501, the circuit in the SC50 is a full blown buck-boost converter (actually, two independent converters that can fully support 14500's while still maintaining extremely high efficiency in the boost mode).


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## davidt1 (Apr 13, 2010)

Anybody has both the SC50 and Quark Mini AA? Can you post a side-by-side picture please? Thanks.


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## jason978 (Apr 13, 2010)

ZebraLight said:


> Unlike the H501, the circuit in the SC50 is a full blown buck-boost converter (actually, two independent converters that can fully support 14500's while still maintaining extremely high efficiency in the boost mode).



Hi Zebra,

I have the sc50 running on AA NiMH batts. when the bats get low, say around 1.05V the light will not come one. Not even in low. Is this normal? thx


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## uplite (Apr 13, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Anybody has both the SC50 and Quark Mini AA? Can you post a side-by-side picture please? Thanks.


I don't have a Mini AA...but according to 4sevens specs it is the almost exactly the same diameter as the thinnest part of the SC50 (0.70" vs 0.71") and it is 0.15" shorter (3.0" vs 3.15").

So imagine an SC50 with the head and tail shaved to the same diameter as the body, and two stacked US nickels of width shaved off one end. That's the size of a Mini AA.

Of course the Mini also shaves off the switch, buck/boost driver, heatsinking, clip attachment, etc. 

-Jeff


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 13, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Anybody has both the SC50 and Quark Mini AA? Can you post a side-by-side picture please? Thanks.



How about a SC30 & Q Mini 123?

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3319072&postcount=10


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## ky70 (Apr 13, 2010)

uplite said:


> ...Of course the Mini also shaves off the switch, buck/boost driver, heatsinking, clip attachment, etc.
> 
> -Jeff


Very good point.


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## tubored (Apr 13, 2010)

If the sc50 has a buck-boost converter, why do you get higher lumen output with the 14500 cells compared to NiMH/Alkaline? Does the micro measure the cell voltage, see it > 2v and use higher current and voltage cut-off settings? Otherwise you should be able to drive the same currents through the diode regardless of cell chemistry, but I guess you'd want to cut off lithium ion cells at a much higher voltage than the other chemistries. What is the reasoning between using different drive currents though?

I'm really interested in the sc50w, it sounds like a great little light. I was just hoping for more output without investing in new cells.


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## mxrider32 (Apr 13, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Anybody has both the SC50 and Quark Mini AA? Can you post a side-by-side picture please? Thanks.


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## uplite (Apr 13, 2010)

tubored said:


> If the sc50 has a buck-boost converter, why do you get higher lumen output with the 14500 cells compared to NiMH/Alkaline? Does the micro measure the cell voltage, see it > 2v and use higher current and voltage cut-off settings? Otherwise you should be able to drive the same currents through the diode regardless of cell chemistry, but I guess you'd want to cut off lithium ion cells at a much higher voltage than the other chemistries. What is the reasoning between using different drive currents though?


Great question. :thumbsup:

Doing the math...193 lumen max output of the SC50 requires 3-4 watts of power from the cell.

Looking at the different cell chemistries...

-- Alkaline AA cannot deliver 3-4 watts, sorry.

-- Lithium AA can deliver a brief burst of 3 watts, e.g. for a camera flash, but not continuous.

-- NiMH AAs _can_ deliver 3-4 watts continuous, albeit with a shortened runtime.

-- Lithium-ion 14500s can also deliver 3-4 watts continuous.


Unfortunately the electronics cannot tell if you are using alkaline, lithium. or nimh cells. The voltage is about the same for all of these chemistries. So apparently zebralight set a max boost-mode output that would work with _all_ of these chemistries.

It would be sweet if there was some secret-handshake clicky sequence to enable the max output mode for NiMH cells. Zebralight?   

-Jeff


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## uplite (Apr 13, 2010)

Oops double post...um...err...

Hey mxrider32, nice picture!

Hot photo tip: Install Picasa and use the "fill light" slider to improve the "exposure" of a point & shoot. 

Here is a copy of that same picture with fill light around 75%, and color temperature around 30%:







I love picasa. 

-Jeff


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## mxrider32 (Apr 13, 2010)

Thanks for the tip uplite. Looks much better.


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## qtaco (Apr 13, 2010)

uplite said:


> Hot photo tip: Install Picasa and use the "fill light" slider to improve the "exposure" of a point & shoot.
> 
> Here is a copy of that same picture with fill light around 75%, and color temperature around 30%:



The only thing wrong with the original is the colour balance due to the artificial lighting, your version looks washed out to me. 

Anyway I'm still waiting to see some pics of the H51. Hopefully we'll get a more concrete ETA soon.


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## uplite (Apr 13, 2010)

qtaco said:


> The only thing wrong with the original is the colour balance due to the artificial lighting, your version looks washed out to me.


No, it's primarily an exposure issue, and secondarily color balance. I bumped the fill light higher than I normally would for contrast to the original. There is only so much that a filter can do to fix a picture that was underexposed in the first place. But it's one of the best 5-second fixes I know.

Plus it was just a filler post b/c I double-posted by mistake. 

-Jeff

EDIT: For comparison, here is the same picture with 75% fill light and NO color correction. It still pulls out more detail than the original, no? Does it look more, or less, washed out than my first edit? Your answer should correlate with whether you prefer cool-tint or neutral-tint LEDs.


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## tubored (Apr 13, 2010)

uplite said:


> Great question. :thumbsup:
> 
> Doing the math...193 lumen max output of the SC50 requires 3-4 watts of power from the cell.
> 
> ...



Good analysis. I admit, I was only really considering LSD NiMH. It would be nice if there was a way to over-ride the default current limit without pulling out the soldering iron and voiding your warranty.


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## ZebraLight (Apr 13, 2010)

jason978 said:


> Hi Zebra,
> 
> I have the sc50 running on AA NiMH batts. when the bats get low, say around 1.05V the light will not come one. Not even in low. Is this normal? thx


 
It's normal. The circuit in the SC50/H501/H50 can stay ON down to 0.9V, but wont' turn on below 1.1V if it's OFF.


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## ZebraLight (Apr 13, 2010)

tubored said:


> If the sc50 has a buck-boost converter, why do you get higher lumen output with the 14500 cells compared to NiMH/Alkaline? Does the micro measure the cell voltage, see it > 2v and use higher current and voltage cut-off settings? Otherwise you should be able to drive the same currents through the diode regardless of cell chemistry, but I guess you'd want to cut off lithium ion cells at a much higher voltage than the other chemistries. What is the reasoning between using different drive currents though?
> 
> I'm really interested in the sc50w, it sounds like a great little light. I was just hoping for more output without investing in new cells.


 
The max power output of a typical boost circuit is limited by the input voltage AND power of a battery.


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## jhc37013 (Apr 14, 2010)

Is anyone turning the SC50 on accidentally in the pocket? Still trying to decide to buy one or not and if the switch is a problem in the pocket I'm not interested but if it is generally not a problem I'm in.


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 14, 2010)

jhc37013 said:


> Is anyone turning the SC50 on accidentally in the pocket? Still trying to decide to buy one or not and if the switch is a problem in the pocket I'm not interested but if it is generally not a problem I'm in.



Haven't had 1 yet in a week. You can also the battery cap 1/8 turn & it's locked out as well.


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## DaFABRICATA (Apr 14, 2010)

jhc37013 said:


> Is anyone turning the SC50 on accidentally in the pocket? Still trying to decide to buy one or not and if the switch is a problem in the pocket I'm not interested but if it is generally not a problem I'm in.


 


I have the SC30W.
All that needs to be done to avoid accidental activation is to unscrew the Tailcap 1/8th of a turn to lock it out. Not a big deal at all IMO.


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## defloyd77 (Apr 14, 2010)

DaFABRICATA said:


> I have the SC30W.
> All that needs to be done to avoid accidental activation is to unscrew the Tailcap 1/8th of a turn to lock it out. Not a big deal at all IMO.



That means unscrewing and rescrewing it every time it gets removed from and put into the pocket which would be a pain if you use it frequently.


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## jhc37013 (Apr 14, 2010)

defloyd77 said:


> That means unscrewing and rescrewing it every time it gets removed from and put into the pocket which would be a pain if you use it frequently.



Yes I'm not interested in doing that and if you have to just so the light don't turn on it would seem like a poor design. I think I am about to order one and check it out for myself, hopefully it's nothing to worry about.


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## DaFABRICATA (Apr 14, 2010)

defloyd77 said:


> That means unscrewing and rescrewing it every time it gets removed from and put into the pocket which would be a pain if you use it frequently.


 

Well sometimes a little extra effort is needed for things to work the way you want them to....at least until our flashlights have voice command that responds to: "Unlock or Turn-On"
I just tried a little test: unscrew the tailcap like a 1/16th or less and it locks it out from accidental activation. Using just one hand, I can EASILY twist it back that 1/16th or less of a turn to make contact again......far from a pain in the a$$. I can also unscrew it thus locking it out one handed VERY EASILY too! A little practice and it becomes second nature when using the SC30W.

Some examples: 
I don't like to HAVE to put the car in drive or park, but if it gives me the desired results even though it means an extra step so be it.
I dont want to have to put on protection before I get "sum lovin'" but if I have "accidental activation" that extra step will help avoid babies or disease.
I sometimes don't like the liner-lock on my knife, but without it I might have an "accidental removal of an appendage"
See a trend here?.....sometimes easy extra steps can help A LOT!

BTW, I think mine has only turned on once due to accidental activation. 

There's a reason there are so many lights available with so many different features and UI's...to give users options.
Imagine how boring flashlights would be if they all featured the same UI's, switches and programing...:sick2::thumbsdow
There are very few lights (if any) that do everything perfect.

For the price point and what these light have to offer, I feel they are a bargain and built VERY well!


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## Misan (Apr 14, 2010)

DaFABRICATA said:


> There's a reason there are so many lights available with so many different features and UI's...to give users options.
> Imagine how boring flashlights would be if they all featured the same UI's, switches and programing...:sick2::thumbsdow
> There are very few lights (if any) that do everything perfect.
> 
> For the price point and what these light have to offer, I feel they are a bargain and built VERY well!


+1 
I think that everyone can afford to choose a flashlight to taste and UI. So that's why there are many flashlights sale everywhere.


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## jblackwood (Apr 14, 2010)

ZebraLight said:


> Unlike the H501, the circuit in the SC50 is a full blown buck-boost converter (actually, two independent converters that can fully support 14500's while still maintaining extremely high efficiency in the boost mode).



Thanks for setting me straight. I see that the SC50s I have both disable the power levels that their cells can't support when the voltage drops and that would explain a lot.


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## ky70 (Apr 14, 2010)

DaFABRICATA said:


> I just tried a little test: unscrew the tailcap like a 1/16th or less and it locks it out from accidental activation.


 
I've been amazed with how slight of a turn I can do to lock it out. This is only my 3rd day of ownership of the SC50 so I haven't yet determined if I will constantly use the lockout or not. Though I don't want to deal with a "hot pocket", to this point the unlocked light has not cut on accidentally.


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## davidt1 (Apr 14, 2010)

mxrider32 said:


>



Thank you for posting this picture. I have not ruled out the Mini AA yet because its all-around slender round shape is ideal for the way I intent to carry the light. Also, the big hot spot from the XP-G emitter is ideal for close-up work, which I often use my lights for. What is your opinion of these lights?

By the way, accidental activation can be minimized by designing a smaller and more recessed click button.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 14, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Thank you for posting this picture. I have not ruled out the Mini AA yet because its all-around slender round shape is ideal for the way I intent to carry the light. Also, the big hot spot from the XP-G emitter is ideal for close-up work, which I often use my lights for. What is your opinion of these lights?
> 
> By the way, accidental activation can be minimized by designing a smaller and more recessed click button.


If you're after the slimmest light available in AA it will be the EZAA which I carry next to my wallet in my back pocket, but the MiNi will definitely beat it for your close up work. My two favorite AA lights are the EZAAw and MiNi AA!


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## davidt1 (Apr 14, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> If you're after the slimmest light available in AA it will be the EZAA which I carry next to my wallet in my back pocket, but the MiNi will definitely beat it for your close up work. My two favorite AA lights are the EZAAw and MiNi AA!



Do you have a SC50? I am dying to know how the SC50 compares to the Mini AA and to the Akoray 106 when using 14500 battery.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 14, 2010)

Sorry I don't yet but I probably will have an SC50w before too long!


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## uplite (Apr 14, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Do you have a SC50? I am dying to know how the SC50 compares to the Mini AA and to the Akoray 106 when using 14500 battery.


From what I've seen, no one does heat management (sinking & transfer) in a AA light as well as Zebralight.

Also the Q-mini does not have a buck converter. I'd guess akoray is also boost-only. These lights might let you overdrive the LED with direct li-ion voltage (3.7-4.2v), but the heat will diminish the LED output in the short term, and kill the LED itself in the long term.

If you want to run 14500s in an ultralight single-AA torch, Zebralight seems like the only game in town. :shrug:

-Jeff


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## swxb12 (Apr 14, 2010)

jhc37013 said:


> Is anyone turning the SC50 on accidentally in the pocket? Still trying to decide to buy one or not and if the switch is a problem in the pocket I'm not interested but if it is generally not a problem I'm in.



I work big box retail and have to move a lot of product everyday. I had the SC50 in my front pants pocket along with my wallet for three days straight without accidental turn on. Paranoia had me checking more than a dozen times. The switch is pretty recessed imo, and it takes a good click to get it on. Quality module.


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## defloyd77 (Apr 15, 2010)

DaFABRICATA said:


> Well sometimes a little extra effort is needed for things to work the way you want them to....at least until our flashlights have voice command that responds to: "Unlock or Turn-On"
> I just tried a little test: unscrew the tailcap like a 1/16th or less and it locks it out from accidental activation. Using just one hand, I can EASILY twist it back that 1/16th or less of a turn to make contact again......far from a pain in the a$$. I can also unscrew it thus locking it out one handed VERY EASILY too! A little practice and it becomes second nature when using the SC30W.



I was wondering if this would be possible. I, like you, do not have many troubles twisting with 1 hand, I can twist head twisties by the tail and tail twisties by the head, so I'm sure this wont be too much of a problem for me, but it may be for others. 

I'm just holding out for the flood models (and actual money to spend).


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## sithjedi333 (Apr 16, 2010)

can the h31 and h51 be placed into the headband with the metal pocket clip on? anyone with a pic of how it works?

thanks.


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## davidt1 (Apr 16, 2010)

sithjedi333 said:


> can the h31 and h51 be placed into the headband with the metal pocket clip on? anyone with a pic of how it works?
> 
> thanks.



Good question! But why in the world would anyone want to use that bulky silicon light holder anyway? A simple mod of adding an elastic band to the headband allow the light with the clip to be worn on the headband. I have been using my H501 this way for over a year now.


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## cistallus (Apr 17, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> sithjedi333 said:
> 
> 
> > can the h31 and h51 be placed into the headband with the metal pocket clip on? anyone with a pic of how it works? thanks.
> ...



Sounds good - details/pics please!


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## davidt1 (Apr 17, 2010)

cistallus said:


> Sounds good - details/pics please!



Sure, why not.

Just sew some elastic band around the headband like this. It holds the light and clip in place.






The advantage the elastic band has over the silicon holder is that the smaller, flat size that allows the whole headband to fit inside a small space such as a shirt pocket.
After all, what's the point of having this great all-in-one light if you can't take with you everywhere you go?


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## NonSenCe (Apr 17, 2010)

what clip is that there?


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## davidt1 (Apr 17, 2010)

NonSenCe said:


> what clip is that there?



That is the clip for the Fenix E01.


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## TRITON (Apr 17, 2010)

:twothumbs SC30, SC50, H30, H501. Exellent lights, I just use the clips that come with h30 and h501, clip them to my shirt at chest level when using and back on the belt or waistband of my tracky dacks when I edc. Works great for me. The clips on sc30 and sc50 are also great for the same belt carry. LOVE the beams on all of them for there versatility:huh:


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## davidt1 (Apr 17, 2010)

kaichu dento said:


> If you're after the slimmest light available in AA it will be the EZAA which I carry next to my wallet in my back pocket, but the MiNi will definitely beat it for your close up work. My two favorite AA lights are the EZAAw and MiNi AA!



Actually, I hate 3-mode twisty lights with a passion because of the many steps it takes to go from low to high. On the other hand, you can operate them with gloves on easily and they don't have to be locked out. The only reason I might consider the Mini AA is because it is small and slender which fit my EDC style.


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## ky70 (Apr 17, 2010)

jhc37013 said:


> Is anyone turning the SC50 on accidentally in the pocket? Still trying to decide to buy one or not and if the switch is a problem in the pocket I'm not interested but if it is generally not a problem I'm in.



I'm only 5 days into owning this light but not 1 accidental turnon and I pocket carry daily. I played 18 holes of golf today with the SC50 pocket clipped and im pleased to report no hot pocket incidents.


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## hazna (Apr 17, 2010)

ky70 said:


> I'm only 5 days into owning this light but not 1 accidental turnon and I pocket carry daily. I played 18 holes of golf today with the SC50 pocket clipped and im pleased to report no hot pocket incidents.



Yes, I agree... I don't think it'll turn on by itself easily. Nice to see they resolved some of the minor issues they had with the sc30


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## kaichu dento (Apr 17, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Actually, I hate 3-mode twisty lights with a passion because of the many steps it takes to go from low to high. On the other hand, you can operate them with gloves on easily and they don't have to be locked out. The only reason I might consider the Mini AA is because it is small and slender which fit my EDC style.


Everything you've said in this post suggests to me that you probably want the EZAA. You go from off>low>high in a single twist and it's the slimmest AAA available. 

I just tried 3 MiNi AA's in comparison with my EZAAw and had no problem with the EZ, but the MiNi's were really difficult for me. I've read of others having no such problem and I suppose the EZAA would be easier yet for them.


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## jhc37013 (Apr 18, 2010)

Well I got my SC50 today wonderful UI but I have an issue with AW 14500, they will not work. I have tried Ultrafire 14500 and they work fine but my AW's will not work in this light but obviously do in other lights.

There charged and I have tried them right off the charger and also partially drained. Anybody else have issues with SC50 and AW?


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## Flashlike (Apr 18, 2010)

jhc37013 said:


> Well I got my SC50 today wonderful UI but I have an issue with AW 14500, they will not work. I have tried Ultrafire 14500 and they work fine but my AW's will not work in this light but obviously do in other lights.
> 
> There charged and I have tried them right off the charger and also partially drained. Anybody else have issues with SC50 and AW?



Just tried an AW 14500 cell in my SC50 and it seems to work properly in all of the modes.


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## jhc37013 (Apr 18, 2010)

Well after taking several battery's in and out it seems to work with AW now. I'm not sure what was up with that but I will take it.


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## Lite_me (Apr 18, 2010)

ky70 said:


> I'm only 5 days into owning this light but not 1 accidental turnon and I pocket carry daily. I played 18 holes of golf today with the SC50 pocket clipped and im pleased to report no hot pocket incidents.


I carried my SC50w with me for a couple of days clipped in my jeans front pocket. In and out of the car several times, blew leaves ... mowed 5 acres ... on and off the tractor several times ... picked up sticks ... serviced the tractor when done ... squatting many times ... drove back home, no accidental turn-ons. :thumbsup:


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## TooManyGizmos (Apr 18, 2010)

Flat top or button top cells ?

Might matter .




jhc37013 said:


> Well I got my SC50 today wonderful UI but I have an issue with AW 14500, they will not work. I have tried Ultrafire 14500 and they work fine but my AW's will not work in this light but obviously do in other lights.
> 
> There charged and I have tried them right off the charger and also partially drained. Anybody else have issues with SC50 and AW?


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## jason978 (Apr 18, 2010)

what kind of runtime do you get with 14500 batts(on hi)? Does it look a lot brighter?


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## davidt1 (Apr 18, 2010)

Can't wait for the H51. This might be the only on-person EDC light I need. Why? 

1. It will be almost as small as the H501. I could care less about tactical this, rambo that lights that put out 500 lumens but can't be carried discreetly on my person.

2. Just like the H501, it's an angled headlamp but with a reflector for some throw. Those of us who have the H501 know how useful and practical it is. I will grab my H501 before batting an eye at any tactical this, rambo that light in an emergency/blackout situation.

3. It comes with a host of improvements over the H501 such as an improved UI, a boost circuit to take advantage of 14500 batteries, and of course a reflector.

4. With a reflector, it will probably have as much throw as the SC50, which makes it a good flashlight as well as a headlamp.

Once again, I hope Zebralight will use the XP-G emitter for the upcoming headlamps/flashlight. This emitter makes sense because:

1. The XP-G is more efficient, which means more brightness and/or longer run time. The XP-G emitter has a big hot spot which is great for close-up use as a headlamp.

Now there are some people who will say that you lose throw with the XP-G emitter. No, you won't. Not in a light this size. The reflector in small lights is so small that no great throw can be achieved anyway. So using the XP-G emitter is not going to hurt the throw that much if at all.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Apr 19, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Can't wait for the H51. This might be the only on-person EDC light I need. Why?
> 
> 1. It will be almost as small as the H501. I could care less about tactical this, rambo that lights that put out 500 lumens but can't be carried discreetly on my person.
> 
> ...



+1. I was thinking of getting the H51 and sell my other lights (mini AA and Romisen G2 w/ R2).


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## Shorty66 (Apr 20, 2010)

+1 I will definitly get the h51 but i hope they will make a better pocketclip and get rid of the silicon...


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## dealgrabber2002 (Apr 23, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> +1. I was thinking of getting the H51 and sell my other lights (mini AA and Romisen G2 w/ R2).


 
I take it back... I realized I do need one flashlight because it's awkward holding a headlamp as a flashlight.

Prolly keep the Romisen G2 and sell the mini AA...


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## davidt1 (Apr 23, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I take it back... I realized I do need one flashlight because it's awkward holding a headlamp as a flashlight.
> 
> Prolly keep the Romisen G2 and sell the mini AA...



Whatever work for you, man. It works for me. Sure it's not as familiar as holding a flashlight, but I still have light where I need it. And that's the important thing. Have you really given it a try? It takes about a week to get used to doing something new.

I will carry an AAA light always just be well-grounded and to have different batteries to share/trade. The H51 will serve all my AA light/headlamp need. This is just for on-person EDC.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Apr 26, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> Whatever work for you, man. It works for me. Sure it's not as familiar as holding a flashlight, but I still have light where I need it. And that's the important thing. Have you really given it a try? It takes about a week to get used to doing something new.
> 
> I will carry an AAA light always just be well-grounded and to have different batteries to share/trade. The H51 will serve all my AA light/headlamp need. This is just for on-person EDC.



I am waiting for the H51. Not out yet.. I guess I have to try it before selling my lights...


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## jhc37013 (Apr 27, 2010)

If it hasn't already been mentioned and for what it's worth I e-mailed ZL about the H51 release their response was 3-4 weeks after the H31 release.


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## qtaco (Apr 27, 2010)

While not unexpected that is a shame, I've been hanging out for the H51. Perhaps Zebralight could throw us a bone and put up a page about the H51 on their website?


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## dealgrabber2002 (May 5, 2010)

+1 on what qtaco posted. Some update would be nice.


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## Shorty66 (May 5, 2010)

Yeah, where is the H51 site? i want to see some pictures!


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## Mr_Light (Jun 3, 2010)

Just ordered this cheap Zebralight clone 
https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.39671
I will update with my impressions.


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## swrdply400mrelay (Jun 3, 2010)

Still waiting for the H51....

I think it's been awhile since the H31 has been released...


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## davidt1 (Jun 3, 2010)

Me too. I am waiting for both the H51 and H51F with warm XP-G. Based on Zebralight's track record of improving upon previous lights, I think they will be great lights, definitely worth the wait. One of these or both will be my light purchase this year.


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## swrdply400mrelay (Jun 3, 2010)

My response from Zebralight is that the H51 will be released a month from now.

Still too long to wait


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## dealgrabber2002 (Jun 3, 2010)

Mr_Light said:


> Just ordered this cheap Zebralight clone
> https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.39671
> I will update with my impressions.


 
Unless you already have a headband, if not, it's more like a flashlight.

But do let me know because I do have a headband laying around doing nothing.


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## ky70 (Jun 3, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> Unless you already have a headband, if not, it's more like a flashlight.
> 
> But do let me know because I do have a headband laying around doing nothing.


 
I wouldn't buy this light for headlamp capabilities...that's just a bonus (I have a headband at home) as what I appreciate the most about this form factor is the forward facing LED while pocket clipped. The DX knockoff appears to have a nice attached clip that would allow for pocket carry. This is why I'm interested in getting the zebralight H31 and using it as my EDC with the included pocket clip. I may pick up this DX version because I love the idea of a forward facing LED while pocket clipped, though the lack of a real low mode really turns me off.


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## learner-gr (Jun 4, 2010)

Are they gonna make a smooth (SMO) reflector for their flashlights?


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## dealgrabber2002 (Jun 6, 2010)

learner-gr said:


> Are they gonna make a smooth (SMO) reflector for their flashlights?



I don't think so. Since the reflector is not that big, it won't improve throw that much.


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## learner-gr (Jun 6, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I don't think so. Since the reflector is not that big, it won't improve throw that much.



Ok. I understand. I thought that the SMO would give extra throw to see a figure at over 50m distance. Now with the op reflector whats the distance that you can clear a figure?


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## dealgrabber2002 (Jun 17, 2010)

learner-gr said:


> Ok. I understand. I thought that the SMO would give extra throw to see a figure at over 50m distance. Now with the op reflector whats the distance that you can clear a figure?


 
I don't have that knowledge. I hope someone can help you on this one.


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## davidt1 (Jun 17, 2010)

I don't know either, but I will be happy as long as the new lights (H51 for me) have some flood and some throw. Here is a GoingGear video of the H31. It certainly has some throw. I can't wait for the H51.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3YXAB90At0


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## dealgrabber2002 (Jun 27, 2010)

Hey man, what happen to the prototype S5200? They took it off from their website. I was looking forward to that too!


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## swxb12 (Jun 27, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> Hey man, what happen to the prototype S5200? They took it off from their website. I was looking forward to that too!



I noticed that too - I'm assuming all the final production of the new headlamp models took too much of their time so they decided to halt r&d.


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## TooManyGizmos (Jun 27, 2010)

~
It also seems they halted the SC-60 (18650) Flashlight

~


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## 289 (Jun 27, 2010)

TooManyGizmos said:


> ~
> It also seems they halted the SC-60 (18650) Flashlight
> 
> ~




That would be a bummer, the SC30 is a great flashlight and I've been waiting for the SC60 to land.


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## swrdply400mrelay (Jul 7, 2010)

Anyone know of any updates on the release of the H51?


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## Flashlike (Jul 7, 2010)

I ordered a Zebralight SC50 on Feb. 24th. It had the "memory bug" so I contacted ZL and they agreed to send out a replacement. For the replacement I requested an SC50w (warm white) so they sent one out. The replacement arrived and had a perfect tint (nice neutral white) but still had the "memory bug" (would "remember" the low level or sub-level of the low level only but not either of the medium levels). 

So I requested another replacement. When that replacement arrived it had a very yellowish tint rather than the nice neutral tint of the first replacement they sent. However, the memory didn't work correctly on it either. So I told them and they agreed to send another replacement. Of course I've had to package up and return the defective flashlight to them each time. 

Yesterday the most recent replacement arrived. Believe it or not the memory function does not work as their instructions say it should on this one, either. 
Their instructions state: 
"_Double click at any level to toggle and select between the two sub-levels for that mode. *Medium and* Low sub-level selections are memorized after the light is turned off and through battery changes. Strobe selection is not memorized._"

I'm beginning to wonder if the memory is only supposed to work on the low level or sub-level of the low level only? Does anyone have either an SC50 or SC50w that will memorize the middle level or it's sub-level? 

Anyway, on the most recent replacement the tint is fantastic--a nice "neutral white" but not yellow. The only thing is that this replacement has a bright "pre-flash" whenever you turn it on in the lower modes and none of the others they sent had this pre-flash. The pre-flash only lasts for a split second but it is super bright and about drives me crazy. Does anyone else have the pre-flash problem? 

Zebralight will probably cast me off if I complain again (about the memory bug and now the pre-flash) but I'm not very happy about it.


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## hotlight (Jul 7, 2010)

Flashlike said:


> I ordered a Zebralight SC50 on Feb. 24th. It had the "memory bug" so I contacted ZL and they agreed to send out a replacement. For the replacement I requested an SC50w (warm white) so they sent one out. The replacement arrived and had a perfect tint (nice neutral white) but still had the "memory bug" (would "remember" the low level or sub-level of the low level only but not either of the medium levels).
> 
> So I requested another replacement. When that replacement arrived it had a very yellowish tint rather than the nice neutral tint of the first replacement they sent. However, the memory didn't work correctly on it either. So I told them and they agreed to send another replacement. Of course I've had to package up and return the defective flashlight to them each time.
> 
> ...




not sure exactly how the memory is supposed to work. mine only saves the secondary level on ONE mode.(saves low low, but not the lower mode on medium.... saves the lower mode on medium, but then low low is not saved anymore-one or the other, never tried to save "strobe")

I wish I could save low low, and lower medium at the same time, but am sticking with my sc50w(especially after reading about your situation)

no preflash on mine, at least I can't see it right now.

if you send it back again, tell them to make sure everything works. like physically open the package and test the light for correct memory and pre flash.


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## was.lost.but.now.found (Jul 7, 2010)

Check this out, SC50 Special Pack. They're clearancing the bad UI lights at a discount price plus with some extra goodies. Maybe they just realized that their entire in-house stock is also the bad UI.


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## pae77 (Jul 7, 2010)

hotlight said:


> not sure exactly how the memory is supposed to work. mine only saves the secondary level on ONE mode.(saves low low, but not the lower mode on medium.... saves the lower mode on medium, but then low low is not saved anymore-one or the other, never tried to save "strobe")
> 
> I wish I could save low low, and lower medium at the same time, but am sticking with my sc50w(especially after reading about your situation)
> 
> ...


Mine works the same as indicated in the above quote. I'm ok with it and still like the light a lot.


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## davidt1 (Jul 7, 2010)

swrdply400mrelay said:


> Anyone know of any updates on the release of the H51?



In 4 weeks, approximately.


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## Flashlike (Jul 7, 2010)

hotlight said:


> ...If you send it back again, tell them to make sure everything works. like physically open the package and test the light for correct memory and pre flash.



hotlight--Yes, I asked them on the last two replacements to test the flashlight before sending it out but apparently they didn't. 

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


was.lost.but.now.found said:


> Check this out, SC50 Special Pack. They're clearancing the bad UI lights at a discount price plus with some extra goodies. Maybe they just realized that their entire in-house stock is also the bad UI.



was.lost.but.now.found--I wonder if they just pulled my "replacement" out of the clearance batch?!!

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

I really like the form factor and UI of this flashlight, and I can get along with the memory saving only the lower setting and it's sub-level but this pre-flash is terrible. It's apparent that ZL is having some quality control issues if they are offering these "clearance packages".


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## dealgrabber2002 (Jul 9, 2010)

was.lost.but.now.found said:


> Check this out, SC50 Special Pack. They're clearancing the bad UI lights at a discount price plus with some extra goodies. Maybe they just realized that their entire in-house stock is also the bad UI.



They only took off $10 for a "memory function not working properly". That's pretty weak even if they do give you an extra clip and silicon holders. I rather spent the $10 and get the fully functional one.


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## Lite_me (Jul 9, 2010)

Well, I just pulled the trigger on one of these Special Packs. A cool one. I already have one of the warm versions, (with the faulty memory function) and I don't feel it's that much of a detriment. It will memorize one of the two outputs in either of the two lower modes and that's just fine with me. I can easily get to the other if needed w/ just a couple of clicks. :shrug:

I'm liking my warm ver one the more I use it. I think I'm _warming_ up to it. I wasn't so sure at first. Now I'm curious to find out which one I'll like better when the new cool one arrives.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Jul 12, 2010)

Lite_me said:


> Well, I just pulled the trigger on one of these Special Packs. A cool one. I already have one of the warm versions, (with the faulty memory function) and I don't feel it's that much of a detriment. It will memorize one of the two outputs in either of the two lower modes and that's just fine with me. I can easily get to the other if needed w/ just a couple of clicks. :shrug:
> 
> I'm liking my warm ver one the more I use it. I think I'm _warming_ up to it. I wasn't so sure at first. Now I'm curious to find out which one I'll like better when the new cool one arrives.



I thought they would at least drop $20. Like 4sevens fire-sale.


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## was.lost.but.now.found (Jul 12, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> I thought they would at least drop $20. Like 4sevens fire-sale.


 
You get a lot more than the 4Sevens fire sale - known emitter type, everything normally found in the box plus extras, and most of all a warranty.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Jul 12, 2010)

was.lost.but.now.found said:


> You get a lot more than the 4Sevens fire sale - known emitter type, everything normally found in the box plus extras, and most of all a warranty.


 
But 4sevens lights are not faulty, just blemish (in some case no blemish at all, I recalled seeing a post regarding that matter). Altho they stated "as is", but I think you still can get manufacturer warranty.


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## was.lost.but.now.found (Jul 12, 2010)

Each to his own; clearly there are plenty of individuals who think it's a great deal and will take the discount, with full disclosure on what they are buying.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Jul 12, 2010)

was.lost.but.now.found said:


> Each to his own; clearly there are plenty of individuals who think it's a great deal and will take the discount, with full disclosure on what they are buying.


 
I agree.


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## Lite_me (Jul 12, 2010)

My cool ver Special Pack arrived today. It's about what I expected tint wise as I have two Zebra HL's in cool ver also. The modes work the same as my org warm one, cept the switch clicks easier. After messing with em, I think I prefer the easier feel of the new one. The cool one is noticeably brighter. I like that about it. Also, the lower modes are more neutral white looking. The two lower modes on the warm ver are very yellow in tint. Too yellow for my liking. I'll see how they compare outdoors after dark, but right now, I think I'm gonna like the cool one better overall.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Jul 12, 2010)

Lite_me said:


> My cool ver Special Pack arrived today. It's about what I expected tint wise as I have two Zebra HL's in cool ver also. The modes work the same as my org warm one, cept the switch clicks easier. After messing with em, I think I prefer the easier feel of the new one. The cool one is noticeably brighter. I like that about it. Also, the lower modes are more neutral white looking. The two lower modes on the warm ver are very yellow in tint. Too yellow for my liking. I'll see how they compare outdoors after dark, but right now, I think I'm gonna like the cool one better overall.



:thumbsup: 

So you are a "cool" guy eh?


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## davidt1 (Jul 16, 2010)

I wish there is an AAA version of the SC50. I need something like that badly. Zebralight should make one, as it would be the only AAA light with a side clickie. With a smart UI and the smallest size for a clickie AAA light, this light would take over the market for single AAA lights. 

I have been using the Maratac AAA (hand free) in place of my H501. While Maratac does a good job, the multi-mode twisty UI requires too many twists to operate. An AAA version of the SC50 would be so much easier to use.

So how about it, Zebralight?


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## Lite_me (Jul 16, 2010)

I see the SC50 & 50w Special Packs are not for sale anymore on the Zebralight website. I just received mine a couple of days ago. I wonder if they pulled them, or sold out that quick on both ver at the same time. :thinking:


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## WebWalker (Jul 17, 2010)

i'd buy a aaa zebra in a heartbeat
wonder how they'd xxxked with the ui?


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## dealgrabber2002 (Jul 17, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> I wish there is an AAA version of the SC50. I need something like that badly. Zebralight should make one, as it would be the only AAA light with a side clickie. With a smart UI and the smallest size for a clickie AAA light, this light would take over the market for single AAA lights.
> 
> I have been using the Maratac AAA (hand free) in place of my H501. While Maratac does a good job, the multi-mode twisty UI requires too many twists to operate. An AAA version of the SC50 would be so much easier to use.
> 
> So how about it, Zebralight?



Wouldn't a zebra AAA with side clicky be too small?


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## davidt1 (Jul 18, 2010)

Being small is the selling point of AAA lights. Just make the click button smaller on the light. I am holding the Maratac and pretend there is a small side click button. It's not too small. It works great in the hand. Speaking of the Maratac, I get a good laugh when I hear newbies proclaiming their multi-mode twisty lights have a great UI. There is nothing great about the UI on 3-mode twisty lights. They are all the same, requiring 5 twists to go from low to high.


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## TRITON (Jul 18, 2010)

I would LOVE to buy a zebra sc50 in AAA. That would be exellent:huh::huh::huh:. Come on ZEBRA LIGHT make an SC50 in AAA, I would buy 2. It would so sell like hotcakes, and be so unique. It would still be able to be fairly powerful and have a good run time. COME ON DO IT, I know you can.:naughty:.


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## MR.A (Jul 18, 2010)

i would buy ten of these yes, and some for my friends brother sister and parents. all the family. 

Great flashlights.


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## jhc37013 (Jul 23, 2010)

Has there been any discussion on the updated SC50+ with the new sub level high 122lm instead of strobe when using 14500? 

I went to ZL to pre-order the H51 and found the SC50+, I did know the UI bug was being updated but didn't know about the new high sub level on 14500. If it's already being discussed sorry but there is a lot of Zebralight threads right now and I searched SC50+ and found nothing.

I was not going to get another SC50 just for the UI bug fix because I have no problem with it the way it is but since I use 14500 the new 122lm sounds good so I pre-ordered that as well.


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## raltm (Jul 23, 2010)

I read about it here
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/268962&page=4

but at that moment there has been no information about UI update in ZL site.


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## jhc37013 (Jul 31, 2010)

So I got my SC50+ from ZL today this makes my third SC50 two being the XPE R2 model and the other is the Q4. 

The first thing I noticed when comparing beams with the the original SC50 with the new SC50+ is to my surprise the SC50+ hotspot is not as intense because it appears to have a slightly heavier textured reflector.

Anyone who has both have you noticed this as well? I'm not sure if it's a intentional design or not but it doesn't make much of a difference either way. Throw is ever so slightly less in exchange for a wider softer hotspot.

I am glad the high mode is the 122lm and the sub level is the 193lm. This is good for me since high mode is not memorized I have 122lm to start.


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## jhc37013 (Aug 9, 2010)

I asked this in the SC60 thread but thought I'd also ask in this larger thread. I just got a email from ZL that my SC60 has shipped, anyone else that pre-ordered the SC60 did you get a email as well? I was not expecting it until the end of the month, I hope this is for real it will be nice to actually get a light earlier than expected.

Edit- Well I asked ZL via email and minutes later I got a response that yes my SC60 has shipped


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## selfbuilt (Aug 20, 2010)

My review of the Zebralight H31w and SC30 is now up:

Zebralight SC30 & H31w (1xCR123A/RCR XP-E) Reviews: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more! 

It's been awhile since I've looked at their offerings, and these new lights are interesting. Currently testing the SC50w, and have one more on the way.


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## psychbeat (Aug 20, 2010)

jhc37013 said:


> I asked this in the SC60 thread but thought I'd also ask in this larger thread. I just got a email from ZL that my SC60 has shipped, anyone else that pre-ordered the SC60 did you get a email as well? I was not expecting it until the end of the month, I hope this is for real it will be nice to actually get a light earlier than expected.
> 
> Edit- Well I asked ZL via email and minutes later I got a response that yes my SC60 has shipped


oooh someone should send one in to BIG C for some NUMBERS!


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## dealgrabber2002 (Aug 20, 2010)

selfbuilt said:


> My review of the Zebralight H31w and SC30 is now up:
> 
> Zebralight SC30 & H31w (1xCR123A/RCR XP-E) Reviews: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!
> 
> It's been awhile since I've looked at their offerings, and these new lights are interesting. Currently testing the SC50w, and have one more on the way.



:thumbsup:


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## NonSenCe (Sep 8, 2010)

ok th sc60 is coming.. too bad it seems bit over priced to other offerings.

i still wish they would bring out the S5200.. (the side by side 2AA light prototype) neutral tint. your smart ui. reversable pocket clip. and stiffer clicky than in sc50. 

my only complaint of the sc50.. the clicky is too easy to accidentally push on when in pocket.. not by normal use but stuffing other things into the pocket or pulling them out.. my cellphone is the culprit most times for it turning on by itself. and i hate to mess with the tailcap looseing and tightening it. wish it would be like the one in h501 as its more convinient.


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