# E1E as a first "good" incan light?



## BigBluefish (May 17, 2009)

I've been on CPF for about a year now, and am mostly an LED guy. I thought I should get one good incan, just to see how I like it, really, and because the one thing I DON'T like about my LEDs with the possible exception of a Q2 in my Fenix L1T, is the rather crappy, washed-out look they give to colors (mostly greens and browns) when used outdoors. The LED beam also seems to mess up my depth perception, but maybe it's just me. But that's not a good thing if I'm walking on a rocky, uneven trail after dark...

So, I've managed to convince myself to spend about $75 for a flashlight that will put out about 15 -25 lumens, depending on whose lamp I use, for about an hour and a half on one battery - the SureFire E1E. I've always kind of wanted one, partly for the way it looks, feels in the hand, the real quality it offers, and of course, it's a SureFire, and still want an E1L, but somehow, $75 seems easier to swallow than $130, and I still get all the SureFire goodnes, just no LED. The E1L is by all acounts a great light, and I'll probably end up getting one eventually, but I've already got a dozen bargain class to good LEDS. And I can always get a TLS or Surefire head for the E1E in the future, if I just have to have more output and runtime, right?

I've realized the closest thing to a quality incan ligh I've ever used is a Mag. The only other incan light I even own is a Streamlight TT 1L, which has an abolutely ghastly beam profile when shone on a white wall. But take it outdoors at night, and it really isn't half bad. And for walking around in the pitch black, or illuminating stuff up to about 30' away, really does just fine. Yeah, the runtime is crap, but the light itself seems well built and has a great form factor; too bad the incan/led combo and rellector isn't the best. 

So I'm hoping the E1E will be even better as a short range "light up what's under your feet" light, and that the optic will actually give me a little reach. And I'm hoping that the incan bulb will make things look a whole lot better than the LEDs do. Maybe there will even be enough output to make the F04 diffuser work, and give me a short range flood - something to light up the area around the tent and table, etc. I've got an LM33 which on low does a nice job in that regard, but it's got one of those funny LED tints to it....kinda yellowy-green (which is odd, since it's got an SSC P4.)

Am I going to find this to be the case, that the E1E is really a kick-a** little light, or have I just spent a ridiculous amount of money on an outdated, outclassed piece of 25 year old technology?


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## 325addict (May 17, 2009)

Yeah, right, another "LED-guy" that comes to the conclusion that LEDs are not always the right choice for in the woods. That pleases my incan-mind 

The E1E surely is a nice little pocket rocket, but the light intensity won't satisfy the needs for in the woods. It's just not bright enough.

When you want to shed some serious money to buy just ONE good incan light, go for either the C2 Centurion or the C3 Centurion. The C3 will have some advantages over the C2: assuming you are going to use it with rechargeables, the C3 will offer about double the runtime of the C2, and/or the possibility to use brighter lamp assemblies. 

From my own experiences in the woods, a C3 with the standard P90 lamp assembly works really fine. Two AW 17500s give you nearly an hour of runtime. 

The C2, as well as the C3 are THE incan lights to have from SureFire. They offer great versatility, a very good handling with that combat-ring and the square body... just grab one, and you instantly feel: THIS is right!

And... if you are not in the woods, you can drop in one of the LED-dropins that are available today! 

Just see your local SF-dealer and take one in the hand... I think you'll agree that these lights are very fine indeed 


Timmo.


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## Cuso (May 17, 2009)

Lumens Factory EO-E1R

Be happy...


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## Illum (May 17, 2009)

I would start with the E2e/6P for that first push...then you can choose to cut back on lumens if you want. First impression is usually best prepared on a leap:shrug:


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## Cosmo7809 (May 17, 2009)

I have a stock E1E, I just bought a EO-E1R today. When it arrives I shall give you some comparison pictures!


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## BigBluefish (May 17, 2009)

I was thinking of picking up an H0-E1A, since I don't have any rechargeables. I figure it should give me about 25 OTF lumens compared to the SF 15, and still just about an hour or runtime. Guess I'll have to give it a try to see if it really makes any differene in practical use. 

Illum: I'm really liking the E2E/E20 lights, too. But they are a little big to be pocketable, and I'm a little leary of two-cell CR123a lights going , but I'm sure I'll get into 2-cell lights shortly. The E2E seems like a nice light, with the MN02 and MN03 lamps, then the HO & EO lamps from LF if I want to go the rechargeable route.


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## Cosmo7809 (May 17, 2009)

I _had_ the E2e and while it is a great light just too big for pocket carry and have plenty of other lights for daily uses. So it had to go. But now I regret getting rid of it.


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## angelofwar (May 17, 2009)

I find myself being "spoiled" by high output lights...and, every once in awhile, it comes back to me...how little light you really need in the woods. the E1E throws pretty good given it's size, and has decent flood as well. When you don't want to wake up the whole forest, the E1E is a good little light. Still have mine (factory bulb)...always will...


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## Kestrel (May 18, 2009)

Speaking as one 'LED guy' to another, the SureFire C3 is a fantastic choice as 325addict suggested. Two rechargeable 17500 cells are where it's at for runtime (something like an ?hour? with the 100 lumen SureFire P90 incan lamp assembly, would that be correct?), and it's my only light that can conveniently switch back and forth between Incan and LED, lithium-primary 3xCR123 for either, LiIon rechargeable 2x17500 for either as well - the voltages for either cell chemistry configuration match perfectly for both Incan & LED setups. Well, that and my SureFire G3, same configuration really.


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## Illum (May 18, 2009)

BigBluefish said:


> I was thinking of picking up an H0-E1A, since I don't have any rechargeables. I figure it should give me about 25 OTF lumens compared to the SF 15, and still just about an hour or runtime. Guess I'll have to give it a try to see if it really makes any differene in practical use.
> 
> Illum: I'm really liking the E2E/E20 lights, too. But they are a little big to be pocketable, and I'm a little leary of two-cell CR123a lights going , but I'm sure I'll get into 2-cell lights shortly. The E2E seems like a nice light, with the MN02 and MN03 lamps, then the HO & EO lamps from LF if I want to go the rechargeable route.



I have a pair of used Lumen Factory lamps [EO-E1R and HO-E1R, respectively] I no longer have use for after converting my E2es into LED and relying on my mag85s for incandescent power
If your in the US I can have them sent to you for free:thumbsup:

Ahh...back when I still had an E1e I used the EO-E1R on nights with short runs or carried as a spare. The outputs relatively on par with the MN03
the HO-E1R is for those times when you have a feeling you'll be outdoors all night and battery life is of more value than output. 
Both lamps are a bit black, but they are still fully functional. 

I'd urge you to try the AW RCR123A LiCoO2 rechargeable cells, they are not as scary as they have been made out to be, especially when you respect them and use them correctly.


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## Patriot (May 18, 2009)

I agree with a few of the others that the E2e makes a much better multi-purpose light with more usage options. With the E1e, you step into the bare minimum incan setup aside from a pen light. Yes, it will do in a pinch but I personally feel that it serves best as an emergency light. Acutually, due the E1e's output and run-time I would personally consider it lacking if you're going to be doing some hiking. After 10 minutes of use it will be noticable more orange in color temperature and on the complete opposite end of the scale from the LED's that you're used to. For single cell lights I think a much better choice would be a bin Q3 5A warm white LED. Going to a 2 cells adds a lot to the flexibility in run-time and output and really suits incans much better, which are going to be used as non-emergency lights for any length of time. Since you're talking about times of an hour plus, I would completely toss out the idea of a single CR123. With the E2e you can even run a bulb with less output for a lot longer period of time, that will have much flatter output over time. 

I used to own four E1e's but due to some of the useage issues I've mentioned I'm now down to one. I also though they'd make good hiking, hunting, camping lights but I was wrong. It felt like I was always changing batteries.


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## Illum (May 19, 2009)

I originally bought an E1e to serve the TW4 era
I bought two actually, with sequencing serial numbers...then I gave one to carrot and I dunno what I did with the other one:candle:


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## RobertM (May 19, 2009)

The E1e is a great little light. But I'll admit, mine has been a bit neglected most of it's life (sitting on a shelf, not getting used)...until recently. My E1e now serves in my EDC rotation since I bought Fivemega's Strion kit and run 1x AW IMR16340. It gives me about 20 minutes or rechargeable, incan bliss.  I would say its output is somewhere in between a SF P60 and P90, all in the tiny E1e body.

For general woods use, my go-to light is definitely my SF G3 with 2x AW protected 17500 cells and the P90 LA.

I think you will like the E1e. Give it a try with the stock MN01 and if it isn't enough light, upgrade to either a Lumens factory lamp or FM's strion kit. The LF HO-E1A is a nice upgrade while still maintaing 60 minutes of runtime on 1 CR123 primary (my fiancée runs this lamp in her "E1eBD" and really likes it). The MN01 isn't a blow-you-away bright lamp, but it puts out a decently bright, nice, smooth incan beam and has decent runtime. Go for it :thumbsup:


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## Cosmo7809 (May 19, 2009)

Patriot said:


> I agree with a few of the others that the E2e makes a much better multi-purpose light with more usage options. With the E1e, you step into the bare minimum incan setup aside from a pen light. Yes, it will do in a pinch but I personally feel that it serves best as an emergency light. Acutually, due the E1e's output and run-time I would personally consider it lacking if you're going to be doing some hiking. After 10 minutes of use it will be noticable more orange in color temperature and on the complete opposite end of the scale from the LED's that you're used to. For single cell lights I think a much better choice would be a bin Q3 5A warm white LED. Going to a 2 cells adds a lot to the flexibility in run-time and output and really suits incans much better, which are going to be used as non-emergency lights for any length of time. Since you're talking about times of an hour plus, I would completely toss out the idea of a single CR123. With the E2e you can even run a bulb with less output for a lot longer period of time, that will have much flatter output over time.
> .




I agree with that 100%. 
My first ever quality light was a debate between the E1e or E2e, many said their output was very very similar but I could not understand the large gap between 15 lumens and 60. I bought the E2e for brightness and longer runtime. In the end I think I made the best decision to go with the E2e. I later traded it as I had it just sitting there(wanted it to be edc but too long)


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## RobertM (May 19, 2009)

If you go with a 2-cell incan, I would strongly urge you to give the A2 Aviator a good look. IMO, it's one of the very best representations of what an incan can be (bright white, regulated(!!), and soft start). I've seen some NIB A2s go for around $100 or so on CPF Marketplace and new/like new for <$100.


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## JonM (May 19, 2009)

+1 on the Aviator! It really is an awesome light. It is surprisingly small and slender, easily fitting in a jeans pocket, and its regulated incan beam is killer! It stays at the same bright, white output level for its entire run time, unlike practically every other commonly available incan out there. Even though it is rated at 50 lumens, it appears to be at least as bright as a p60 to me, and because of the regulation it will be putting out much more light than a p60 towards the end of their runtimes. Of course, it also has three 5mm leds to serve as a floody low, and there is also the 2 stage swich- press for low (LEDs, flood), press further for high (incan, throw). Even if the A2 had no LEDs, the regulated incan beam would still make it worth getting. There is just so much to like about the aviator! :thumbsup:


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## Illum (May 20, 2009)

JonM said:


> +1 on the Aviator! It really is an awesome light. It is surprisingly small and slender, easily fitting in a jeans pocket, and its regulated incan beam is killer! It stays at the same bright, white output level for its entire run time, unlike practically every other commonly available incan out there.



its somewhat bigger than an E2e...so if your having trouble fitting that in your [jean?] pockets, consider a holster for your A2



> Even though it is rated at 50 lumens, it appears to be at least as bright as a p60 to me, and ...


I think McGizmo measured it around 80 lumens 



> there is also the 2 stage swich- press for ...


the A2 features the "futuristic" [] 5 stage tailcap


complete lockout
LED momentary
LED/Xenon momentary
LED on, Xenon momentary
LED/Xenon on
all handled by how far you decide to screw the tailcap down, no programming, no mode hopping.

For an unenlightened folk [or muggles] the E1e is bright for its size, but we are well aware of what a flashlight can do nowadays and as a result we have severely lost [or losing] perspective of things...


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## schiesz (May 20, 2009)

I love the A2, but I would suggest an E1e also since its pretty much my favorite production light, and much better for EDC. I think I currently have about 5-6 in various configurations. Right now my EDC is this:





with the LF EO-E1R bulb. I switch it with a Koala E-MT with a nice warm rebel if I need more runtime. 

The A2 can be a killer incan as well, but it needs a bit of help just like the E1e. My best mod to the A2 is replacing the LEDs with Nicha GS's and dabbing glow powder epoxy on the back of the emitters.


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## divine (May 20, 2009)

My E1E is a shelf light.

Even if I could use a light that size/output, I will grab an E-Series light with the Fivemega 18500 body.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (May 20, 2009)

The E1e is the best incan for EDC ever made! Especially with the Lumens Factory/AW upgrades....


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## flashfan (May 20, 2009)

My vote goes to the SureFire E2e.


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## BigBluefish (May 20, 2009)

Thanks for all the input guys. 

I did pull the trigger on the E1E and a spare MN01 lamp. red filter, and a spares carrier. I'll see how I like that and if I think I need more output, I'll give the LF HO-E1A a try. 

I know I've been spoiled by the long regulated runtimes and high outputs of the LEDs I've been using, but the ghostly white beams are getting to me. 

As one of you pointed out, the warm-tint LEDs may be the way to go...they just aren't showing up in alot of single cell AA or CR123a lights yet. But in a few months, who knows? If Surefire ever puts one in the E1L or E1B, I'll have to lock up my credit card. The one in the Fenix TK20 looks pretty nice, and if I don't have to hike with it, the size and weight aren't an issue, but that has to be the most god-awful ugly light around. 

After considering all you guys had to say, It was very hard not to follow standard CPF practice and get an E2E or a C2 with the E1, and I even thought of going LED again and getting the E1L instead of another incan...but I controlled myself, at least for the next few months. (This purchase has pretty much blown my flashlight budget 'til the end of the summer. So I can ruminate over my next purchase until the fall.)

I'll report back once I've played with my new, and first, SureFire for awhile.


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## schiesz (May 20, 2009)

Good Choice. You'll like it.


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## Kestrel (May 21, 2009)

schiesz said:


> Good Choice. You'll like it.


You'll also like your C3, once you have it.


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## 325addict (May 21, 2009)

Indeed, after this E1E you WILL - eventually - get a C3! 

Think about it: more than 100 Out-of-the front Lumens from the standard P90 LA, with two AW 17500s you'll nearly have one hour of bright runtime!

Tired of the P90? Drop in a warm-white Malkoff and you'll be facing a whole new area in LED-lights.... with the better color and long runtimes, compared to other LED-lights...

Yes, me too, I'm sure you will like the C3... once you have it :thumbsup:

(But I'm sure you'll like that cute little E1E too - it's simply the best incan-EDC around!)


Timmo.


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## Illum (May 21, 2009)

C3 is _huge _for an EDC don't you think? oo:


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## RobertM (May 21, 2009)

Illum said:


> C3 is _huge _for an EDC don't you think? oo:



I agree--it would be pretty big for EDC. With that being said, I have EDC'd my G3 in my coat in the winter and in cargo shorts in the summer, but only on occasion.


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## Kestrel (May 21, 2009)

Illum said:


> C3 is _huge _for an EDC don't you think? oo:


It is pretty large for EDC but the size is perfect for ENC.


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## BigBluefish (May 21, 2009)

325addict said:


> Indeed, after this E1E you WILL - eventually - get a C3!
> 
> Think about it: more than 100 Out-of-the front Lumens from the standard P90 LA, with two AW 17500s you'll nearly have one hour of bright runtime!
> 
> ...


 
Actually, I was thinking the C2 may be my P60 host, once my budget recovers from my first SurFire purchase. It seems a much nicer light than the 6P or G2. A Malkoff warm-white flood lamp or lower output lamp for better runtime will go in it.


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## Kestrel (May 21, 2009)

BigBluefish said:


> Actually, I was thinking the C2 may be my P60 host, once my budget recovers from my first SurFire purchase. It seems a much nicer light than the 6P or G2. A Malkoff warm-white flood lamp or lower output lamp for better runtime will go in it.


Sorry, we're going slightly OT here, but you have seen the following thread right?
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/206975

It is THE SureFire C2 & C3 thread on CPF. Lots and lots and lots of eye candy, with every just about every poster putting in their two cents on why they think their C2 (or C3) is the best all-around light. (BTW, it's the C3 that's the best. ) Good stuff.
Enjoy,


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## sween1911 (May 22, 2009)

I have an E1-GM that I bought that was my EDC for a couple years. Excellent light. I don't know if it's just the one I have, or if all the 1-cell executive lights do this, but they seem to be impervious to bulb breakage. I've dropped mine on the concrete, down the stairs, banged around in my pocket, and the bulb just doesn't care. Maybe it's the light weight of the light itself that doesn't subject the bulb to impact, but it's just an excellent design.


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## Illum (May 22, 2009)

Kestrel said:


> It is pretty large for EDC but the size is perfect for ENC.


:lolsign: what you can't see no longer takes up space
I'd probably have to wear my Utilikilt to ENC without seeing the bulge. I have EDC'd my M6 in dress pants but the bulge looks like a tumor unless its an outdoor night banquet




sween1911 said:


> I have an E1-GM that I bought that was my EDC for a couple years. Excellent light. I don't know if it's just the one I have, or if all the 1-cell executive lights do this, but they seem to be impervious to bulb breakage. I've dropped mine on the concrete, down the stairs, banged around in my pocket, and the bulb just doesn't care. Maybe it's the light weight of the light itself that doesn't subject the bulb to impact, but it's just an excellent design.



could be...did you observe any tendency for the light to impact head first? that's one of the main causes of lamp breakages. 
If your dropping the light with a cold lamp, you would be fine. If the lamp does go when its cold you might want to call surefire about that. 

A lamp is most vulnerable when its hot, I've seen mag[num] xenon lamps have the filaments jarred out of focus after a long burn just by slightly tapping the head to the table. Haven't seen it to occur to Surefires, but heard of at least one case where a Dominator 10X lost its main lamp in that manner.


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## 325addict (May 22, 2009)

@ BigBlueFish: you should, when considering a C2 or a C3, take into account that the batteries that they use - 16340s (RCR123s) versus 17500s - have an enormous difference in energy. The RCR123s have, depending on the brand, 500 to 600mAh (regardless of what is stated!) and even the crappiest Ultrafire 17500s have more than 1000mAh - I've tested all this myself, not from "I heard that....".

In other words: for that bit of extra length, you get DOUBLE the runtime.

Don't need long runtimes? Then let's go to the other advantage a C3 has to offer over a C2: an RCR123 can handle a current of up to 1.2A safely when it has a true capacity of 600mAh, a 17500 will be at least capable of 2A, this means, brighter lamps can be used.
With RCR123s a P90 is the best you can get, with 17500s Lumens Factory offers a wide variety of brighter lamps if needed.

Just want a compact, fairly bright incan with about half an hour of runtime? Then forget everything I said about the benefits of a C3 and buy a C2 instead (to be honest, I just bought a C2 too, after I have had a C3 for months now...)

Timmo.


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## BigBluefish (May 23, 2009)

Well, my E1e and the associated goodies were waiting for me when I came home from work last night. 

Good thing my wife didn't ask how much it cost. 

The light output is just as good as I hoped it wouuld be. It reminded me of just how bright and useful 15 lumens actually is. It appears at least as or just slightly brighter than my L1T v2 on 'low,' with a much smoother beam, larger and brighter spill, cleaner hotspot (and for an LED, the L1T isn't bad in this regard) and a MUCHnicer, warm tint. If only someone could come out with an LED and reflector that would give such a nice beam. I've only played with it around the house, but it's more than adequate for any indoor flashlight needs (short of "tactical' needs). I'll take it outside tonight and see how it throws and how the beam tint works outdoors. 

So far, I am very happy. I know I won't have much runtime, and I don't know how the lack of regulation will factor in to the usefullness of the light. The light itself seems very well made, small and light but built like a tank. My intial thoughts are though, that the clip is pretty useless. I don't think that's peculiar to Surefire clips. Oh, and the body and tail anodizing don't quite match. Who cares? 

This little puppy and a spares carrier with an extra lamp and 4 CR123a cells is going to be tagging along on my camping trips this summer. I think it is probably going to be just right around the campsite, and maybe for some short night walks.


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## 325addict (May 23, 2009)

Well, with 4 spares and a full one in when you leave, you'll have 7.5 hours of light. For in and around the tent, that's MORE than sufficient. In two or three weeks' time, I won't even go through one set of AAs in my power-hungry headlamp. Runtime is two hours on high, five hours on low.
Don't try to read through a 1,000 page book or walk for hours through the woods, then you'll run out of batteries sooner than you like!

I'm sure you'll enjoy this little nice light. It has, indeed, a perfect color of the light, and it is BRIGHT for its size 

Already wanting some more? Let's move on to the C3 then 
The perfect light for in the woods....


Have fun,

Timmo.


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## TKC (May 24, 2009)

*The SF E1E IS my very favorite incan. light!! I own several of them. I think they do well for what they are.*


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## BigBluefish (May 30, 2009)

Well, I finally managed to take the little E1E out into the woods/fields at night, and I'm pretty impressed. It does just fine lighting things up to 25 yards or so away, and my eyes weren't even dark adapted. Really, for walking a trail at night, or around the campsite, how much more light am I really going to need? The color temp is also great...things don't look washed-out the way they do under LED illumination. 

For those who have used both, does the E2E/E20 running the MN02 lamp seem significantly brighter, or give more throw or wider spill than the E1E's MN01? -Looking for excuse to get E2E, besides the longer runtime  

Or, for those who've used both the Lumens Factorey H0-E1A and Surefire MN02, are the output levels roughly equal? Could I get MN02 brightness out of the E1E with the LF lamp, and just give up runtime, or would I need to go up the 2-cell E-format and MN02 to really notice any difference? (I'm not using rechargeables, only primaries.)


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## 325addict (Jun 1, 2009)

I don't have answers to your questions, but I think it's about time to get an E1E soon 

On the other hand: in the woods, this is a place where "brighter is better" counts for me, more than in any other place. The C3 was good, very good, but... was beaten by the Wolf eyes M90 Rattlesnake in a direct comparison. This one had exactly the right combination of throw and flood. I also had a MagCharger with me, this one had a much better throw, but nearly no spill, and that's not the best thing for in the woods. Of course, you could de-focus it into the "flood"-position, this works pretty well indeed, the beam-artifacts can be lived with and are not so bad as with an ordinary mag 3D.

Maybe it is just different, by what you expect from it, and how far you actually _want_ to shine your light. For me, it is: 500 meters if possible 
And then, even a C3 is not enough :devil:


Timmo.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Jun 1, 2009)

325addict said:


> I don't have answers to your questions, but I think it's about time to get an E1E soon
> 
> On the other hand: in the woods, this is a place where "brighter is better" counts for me, more than in any other place. The C3 was good, very good, but... was beaten by the Wolf eyes M90 Rattlesnake in a direct comparison. This one had exactly the right combination of throw and flood. I also had a MagCharger with me, this one had a much better throw, but nearly no spill, and that's not the best thing for in the woods. Of course, you could de-focus it into the "flood"-position, this works pretty well indeed, the beam-artifacts can be lived with and are not so bad as with an ordinary mag 3D.
> 
> ...


If you want cheap and brighter than all those lights, try an Ultrafire WF-500 with a Lumens Factory HO-R5 + 2x IMR18650.


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## saabgoblin (Jun 2, 2009)

My E1E MNO1 bulb is in transit as we speak/I type for my Lego Project and I am pretty sure that I'll like it a lot. I was impressed and blown away by Led's and their efficiencies but that was before I actually bought a high quality incandescent light. I have swapped my E1E head with my E2d head and I personally prefer the lesser amount of spill created by the E2d and it's convex lens and the crenelations in the beam aren't a bother in actual use, either way, having a tiny pocketable incandescent in my rotation will be quite nice especially at actual Surefire Lumens.


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## DaveG (Jun 3, 2009)

Just got a Lumens Factory HO-E1A,to replace my stock blown bulb,man talk about night and day.I may start using this light again.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Jun 4, 2009)

DaveG said:


> Just got a Lumens Factory HO-E1A,to replace my stock blown bulb,man talk about night and day.I may start using this light again.


Now you should get the EO-E1R + 1x AW RCR123 to really see the "light". LOL

I use the HO-E1A for weekend camping trips and either the HO-E1R or EO-E1R for short night walks around the campsite.


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## Cosmo7809 (Jun 4, 2009)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> Now you should get the EO-E1R + 1x AW RCR123 to really see the "light". LOL





My EDC and WOW!!!


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## DaveG (Jun 4, 2009)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> Now you should get the EO-E1R + 1x AW RCR123 to really see the "light". LOL
> 
> I use the HO-E1A for weekend camping trips and either the HO-E1R or EO-E1R for short night walks around the campsite.


 
That EO--E1R looks good to me, after getting a taste of what this little light can do.


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## BigBluefish (Jun 16, 2009)

Well, on word that the E1E in Black has been discontinued (maybe true, maybe not...) and having found a slight markdown, I found my excuse and bought a second one. 

So I'm a sucker or a SureFire addict....

Now I can run one on the MN01 and the second on the H0-E1A, or HO-E1R, or EO-E1R, or get a TLS head, or.... 

Maybe the trick for the E1E as an EDC is to carry a pair, one with the MN01 and the other with the E0-E1R, kind of a retro approach... like a New York reload.


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## saabgoblin (Jun 17, 2009)

Not unhappy at all with my E1e in stock form so I am sure that I would be quite pleased with the Lumens factory upgrades. Tested the throw of my E1e and E1b in a theater with catwalks about 50+feet up in the rafters above the stage and curtains and the E1e threw just as far albeit with a little less output but it still got the job done nicely!

The E1e is no slouch!


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## JNewell (Jun 17, 2009)

Cuso said:


> Lumens Factory EO-E1R
> 
> Be happy...


 
That is not a good first incan.

It is a good _*last*_ incan.


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## EV_007 (Jun 17, 2009)

Pop an F04 diffuser over it and ya have a good close range warm floody buddy.


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## Jaywalk3r (Jun 18, 2009)

Kestrel said:


> You'll also like your C3, once you have it.



I'm sure I'll love my C3 as soon as I find a source for 17500 LiFePO4 cells. Until then, sadly, it just sits on a shelf, looking like my M2's skinny older brother.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Jun 24, 2009)

I've just placed an order for another brand new E1e! :thumbsup:


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## mcm308 (Jun 24, 2009)

I really need to get me one of these...


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## BigBluefish (Jun 26, 2009)

Got my black (is this HA or Type II?) E1E today. Finish & fit are excellent, switch is excellent, brightness is excellent, for a 15 lumen light. But the beam isn't as clean as my other E1E...alot of artifacts in the spill beam, especially towards one outer edge. Not an issue in practical use, but noticable, in comparison with my other E1E, which has a flawless beam. 

Will my incoming LF HO-E1A lamp fix this, or is it more likely a relfector issue? 

Still happy with my 2nd E1E. The black looks very, very good.


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## 325addict (Jun 30, 2009)

The black E1E has a type II finish.

I'm quite sure this has something to do with the reflector. Did you already check the fit of the bulb? Maybe it is off-center.
Other cause could be a bad-centered lamp. As an experiment, you could swap both lamps from your E1Es.

I just ordered an E1E HA, and then saw another one on CPF marketplace, which I gladly took. One will be left stock, the other will be equipped with a LF lamp....


Timmo.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Jun 30, 2009)

BigBluefish said:


> Got my black (is this HA or Type II?) E1E today. Finish & fit are excellent, switch is excellent, brightness is excellent, for a 15 lumen light. But the beam isn't as clean as my other E1E...alot of artifacts in the spill beam, especially towards one outer edge. Not an issue in practical use, but noticable, in comparison with my other E1E, which has a flawless beam.
> 
> Will my incoming LF HO-E1A lamp fix this, or is it more likely a relfector issue?
> 
> Still happy with my 2nd E1E. The black looks very, very good.


They are all Black-HA (Type-III).

The HO-E1A may fix your focusing issue, which is more than likely caused by the lamp assembly filament and not some reflector defect.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Jun 30, 2009)

325addict said:


> The black E1E has a type II finish.
> 
> I'm quite sure this has something to do with the reflector. Did you already check the fit of the bulb? Maybe it is off-center.
> Other cause could be a bad-centered lamp. As an experiment, you could swap both lamps from your E1Es.
> ...


Wrong, the E1e black is 100% Type-III Hard Anodized. The only version of the E1e which had a Type-II anodizing was the rare "Wine Light" edition.


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