# LiteFlux LF3XT Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, and more!



## selfbuilt (Jan 10, 2009)

_*Reviewer's Note: *The LF3XT was purchased from CPF dealer LED Cool - see his Dealer's thread in CPFM. _

_*UPDATE AUGUST 10, 2009:* My review of the replacement tailcap with clip and 2xAA battery tube is now up._ 

_*UPDATE:* After completing the review, my purchased LF3XT developed a fault on primary CR123A. LED Cool not only sent me a replacement unit, but one extra light to review as well. Summary results for all 3 units have been added to the review. To see detailed runtime comparisons, scroll down to post #2. _

*Warning: Pic heavy!*

*Manufacturer's claimed specifications*

LED : CREE XR-E Q5 bin
Approximate LED current at 100% output level : 700ma when using CR123
Input voltage : 2.0V - 4.5V (CR123/16340)
Battery chemistry allowed : Primary Lithium CR123(3.0V), rechargeable Li-Ion 16340(4.2V) & rechargeable LiFePO4.
PWM Frequency 7800Hz.
Material = 6061 T6 Aluminium Alloy.
Tail press button machined from 6061 T6 Aluminium Alloy with shinny finish.
AR Coated glass lens.
Finishing : available in 1 colour - BLACK HA III.
O ring seal at lens, battery tube and tack switch.
Split ring hole at tail end. Stable tail stand.
All parts can be disassembled for cleaning and maintenance.
Water resistant for daily normal use. NOT suitable for diving or swimming.
Size: 80mm length. 23mm diameter.
Standard Accessories: Lanyard, 2pcs spare O rings, A small container of silicon lubricant for the o-rings, Instruction manual







The LF3XT is the latest offering from LiteFlux, building on the circuit and design of their sophisticated 1AA model, the LF5XT. This version actually features two separate user interfaces that you can switch between - a compact one that is very similar to the Nitecore EX10, and complex one that is closer to the Novatac 120P (but with more features and control).






The LiteFlux packaging is similar to older LF series, and comes with a nice wooden presentation box. Package contains a manual, wrist strap, spare o-rings, and lube. The wrist strap seems to be of fairly high quality, and is a nice addition.

(sorry for the dusty pics coming up, I was in a hurry )










The two-stage body design is fairly compact for a 1xCR123A/RCR light, and features a deep reflector and programmable clicky (scroll down for detailed pics). 

Weight: 56.7g
Length x Width: 80.7mm x 23.0mm










Fit and finish is excellent on my sample - lettering is very clear and sharp, and the black type-III hard anodizing is flawless. Labels are kept to a minimum (although I’ve personally not crazy about Liteflux’s stylized italics font). 

The knurling is improved over early LiteFlux lights, where it was more for decoration - although still not overly aggressive here, it does help with grip. I do find the four protruding corners of the base a little sharp, and could stand to be rounded further. 






The light uses the common Cree Q5 emitter, since R2s remain frustratingly hard to get in volume. All lights use premium cool white emitters, but LiteFlux dealer LED Cool may be able to select relatively warm/cool tints for those who are interested. 

Reflector is deeper than most 1xCR123A/RCR lights, and is very finely textured - to the point where it appears like a fine haze over the reflector surface. Fairly unique to LiteFlux, this appearance actually reminds me a bit of my DIY sputtering jobs (although far more consistently applied here, of course). Scroll down for beamshots.






Build of this light is different from most. Since it uses a MCU in the head, a separate current path needs to be provided for the modes to work reliably. Like the LF5XT, there is a brass sleeve that the battery sits inside, which connects the tailcap switch to the retaining ring in the head. A good comparable would be the Novatac lights, where this is done with a spring that runs around the battery. 






Although it may look similar to the NiteCore "Piston Drive", the LF3XT still uses an actual tailcap switch underneath the battery sleeve. But the switch is not your typical clicky - it is more like those found on modern electronic devices. A good way to describe it is like the on/off button on your LCD monitor, as compared to the traditional clicky switches found on old CRTs. The feel is actually more similar to the Novatac series lights, but with less tactile feedback on my LF3XT sample.

The screw threads are anodized on the body tube, so lock-out is possible. :thumbsup:

Note that unlike the LF5XT, the battery sleeve doesn't appear to be user-removable - it doesn't seem to want to come out on mine at any rate, and I don't plan to force it.

_*UPDATE JANUARY 13, 2009:* Seems like the battery sleeve can come out - you need to unscrew the tail retaining plate (using a small screwdriver in the lanyard hole, and turning counter-clockwise from the body tube). The battery sleeve then falls out of the back-end of the body tube. _






_The switch can also be disassembled from the tail retaining plate, using a pair of fine tweezers or snap-ring pliers. Here's what you'll find inside:_






*User Interface*

The LF3XT is a remarkably versatile light, with a dual user-selectable interface that should please KISS-fans as well those wanting a fully user-customizable light. :kiss:

But first a warning: there is a lag before a button press is registered by the MCU and the light responds. This means a noticeable lag in operation - but it also means you can't rapidly double-click within 0.3 secs, or the light won't register the two separate actions (i.e. you have to allow 0.3 secs between each click). This takes some getting used to - but once you master taking it a bit slower, you should have no problems controlling the light.

In Compact User Interface (CUI), the light is remarkably similar to the Nitecore EX10 - but with a few improvements. The EX10 interface is pretty simple - with the head fully tightened, click for on/off. When on, press and hold to begin the ramp, release to select the desired level. Shortcuts to min (double-click) and max (click-press/hold) are included. 

The main complaint with the EX10 interface is that your custom-set level is erased when you use the shortcuts (i.e. jump to min, and min is now your new custom-set level). The second complaint is that you have try twice to activate the ramp after using a shortcut, since it remembers the previous ramp direction.

In contrast, the LF3XT retains the user-selected output even when shortcuts are used. The way this works is that the shortcuts are actually a toggle - e.g. double-click for min, double-click again and you are back to your pre-selected user level. :thumbsup: This is actually very useful, except it also means that every time you turn the light on it comes back to the user defined level (i.e. if you use the shortcut to min or max and turn off the light, it will still come back on at the pre-defined level). This is likely an improvement for more users, although probably not ideal for all.

The LF3XT ramp works as expected on every attempt. You can also re-program your LF3XT to act as a momentary-on instead of click-on (like you can do on the EX10 by unscrewing the head slightly), but I find this less useful for either interface.

The Full-Function User Interface (FUI) is much more complex, and similar to the LF5XT. Although the light is easy to use in practice once programmed, I suspect you will find you need to refer to the manual frequently when you want to re-program any features. Please refer to LED Cool's dealer thread on CPFMP or the discussion thread here on CPF for more info on how to use it. There's also a revised english manual maintained by matrishaman here, and a programming flowchart that Budman231 created (for those more visually-inclined).

One revised feature that I will mention is the low voltage over-discharge protection system has been separated for NiMH and Li-ion cells. Although the LF3XT only takes 1xCR123A/RCR at present, an optional 2xAA battery tube is planned for the near future. 

I plan to do a review of the 2xAA battery configuration once it becomes available. We will see if they have fixed the issue with the low-voltage shut-off problem with the LF5XT. Briefly, that light always shut-off on NiMH or alkaline at ~1V, regardless of whether the low voltage over-discharge protection feature was enabled (see my LF5XT review for more info). 

Personally, I find the CUI very well suited to EDC use. Fans of the Novatac-style lights or LF5XT may prefer to use the sophisticated FUI (which you can customize to exactly the way you want). But the CUI is pretty intuitive and easy to remember right out of the box. :twothumbs

*Comparison Review*





From left to right: Duracell CR123A, LiteFlux LF3XT, Nitecore EX10, Fenix P2D, Dereelight C2H, JetBeam Jet-II PRO, Novatac 120P, Nitecore Extreme

As you can see, the light is a bit bigger than the Nitecore EX10, but I actually like the extra heft.

*Comparison Beamshots*

All lights are on 100% on AW RCR, except for the Surefire E1B which is on primary Duracell CR123A. Distance is about 0.5 meters from a white wall. 

1/25sec, f3.2













1/100sec, f3.2













1/800sec, f3.2













As you can see, the beam profile is very distinctive on the LF3XT - you have a much narrower (but brighter) spillbeam than most lights, thanks to the deeper reflector. Cree rings are also greatly reduced, and the hotspot is a little broader than most lights. Frankly, I find this profile to be a lot more SSC-like than Cree-like.  Tint on my sample is quite warm, which I personally like (I asked LED Cool to select a warm tint).

*Testing Method:* All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for the extended run Lo/Min modes which are done without cooling.

Throw values are the square-root of lux measurements taken at 1 meter from the lens, using a light meter.

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*






LF3XT’s peak throw is toward the lower end of my 1xCR123A/RCR lights, but that's not necessarily a bad thing for an EDC (it is pretty comparable to the Novatac or Incendio).

Max overall output is fairly typical for a light this size, and consistent with the reported 700mA driving current (there are larger lights that are more heavily driven). Low output is particularly impressive - on primary CR123A, the LF3XT can actually go as low as my Novatac 120P. oo: This is even lower than the LF5XT.

_*UPDATE:* With the receipt of the extra 2 samples, I've added their output/throw results to the table above. As you can see, there is no real difference in terms of overall output. However, throw varied a bit - one new sample had ~10% more throw than the original, and the other had ~20% more throw. I suspect this is due to slight differences in how well-focussed the samples were set in the factory._

*Variable Output Ramping*






The LF3XT has two ways to adjust brightness through the FUI - step-wise "logarithmically" (which is visually-linear) or "linearly" (which will take you in much slower steps). The CUI uses a visually-linear ramp upon press-and-hold that is much faster than the FUI manual stepping. It is in fact very similar to the Nitecore EX10 and ITP C9 (shown above). The LF3XT fast CUI ramping time is about ~1 sec longer than those lights.

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*



























*Output/Runtime Comments:*

Max output and runtime pattern are remarkably similar between the LF3XT and the Nitecore EX10 - although my EX10 sample has longer runtime on max. I suspect this is largely due to variation in Vf, so YMMV. :shrug:

On the lower outputs, the LF3XT tends to have a slight runtime advantage on RCR, but is less tightly regulated than some of the other lights shown here. I haven't done as many lower mode CR123A runs, but performance is definitely in keeping with the competition so far.

In summary, no major surprises here - the LF3XT performs pretty much as I would expect for a continuously-variable light. 

_*UPDATE:* To see the runtimes of the two new samples, see post #2. Frankly, I've very impressed at how little variability there was in output or runtime. _

*Potential Issues*

As mentioned previously, the 0.3 sec lag in responding to some button presses takes a little getting used to. The button also has a much shorter traverse, in keeping with an electronic switch as opposed to a traditional clicky. Not really problems per se, just a different set of expectations.

That being said, I have found the button feel of my LF3XT to be a bit soft, leading to uncertainty if a press has been registered (i.e. sometimes lacks tactile feedback). Can't say I had any problems with my LF5XT, which was crisp and clear for this type of switch.

_*UPDATE:* Scroll down this thread for a further discussion of this issue, and a potential resolution. Of the replacement samples, I found one has a very crisp feel, while the other feels much like the first sample described here. This can be improved with a little user maintenance._ 

*General Observations*

I'm very impressed with my LF3XT. 

The most remarkable thing about this light is the dual interface. They've taken the powerful-yet-simple UI of the Nitecore EX10, and the advanced programmable UI of the LF5XT/Novatac, updated both with new features, and then put them together into one light! oo:

Having EDCed lights using both approaches over the years, I appreciate the merits of each method. But to able to have both in one light, with the ability to easily switch between them, is brilliant. Credit where credit is due - my hat's off to LiteFlux on this one. :bow:

It's nice to see the small touches on this circuit that improve over other lights. The enhanced memory mode for the user-selected level in the CUI is a nice addition over the EX10. LiteFlux has also taken the minor issues associated with the LF5XT - which was a good light, but had a few quirks - and corrected them with the release of the LF3XT. Note that min output is now close to my Novatac 120P, something the LF5XT couldn't match. :thumbsup:

The LF3XT beam is also very nice, with one of the smoothest transitions from spot to spill I've seen in a Cree light (very SSC-like, in fact). Keep in mind the LF3XT is not a thrower, and the spillbeam (although bright) is narrower than most lights. This is not really a problem - I discovered while carrying my LF5XT around that you quickly adapt to it (i.e. I had unconsciously switched from carrying the light forward in front of me, to holding it up closer to my head, before figuring out why the beam didn’t seem so narrow after all! :laughing.

Another reason I bought this light is for the planned 2AA battery tube option, expected to be available soon. Although I know many manufacturers who promised updates that never came, I am impressed that they've already programmed into the circuit separate control over low-voltage/battery shut-down options for unprotected Li-ion and NiMH. The LF5XT is the first light I've seen with this clever feature for NiMH, and I'm looking forward to seeing how it works on the LF3XT once the 2AA tube comes out.

Build quality feels really solid and well made. In fact, my only niggling issue is with the button feel, but that could be specific for my light (again, I thought the LF5XT switch was fine, once you got used to it). That, and a clip would be nice. 

What more can I say – there’s a lot to love here. :kiss: Well done!

_P.S.: My review of the replacement tailcap with clip and 2xAA battery tube is now up. _


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## selfbuilt (Jan 10, 2009)

Since completing the testing for this review, something on the circuit of my LF3XT has shorted out on primary CR123A, leading to a burnt smell and drastically reduced output (although still runs fine on RCR). I have contacted LED Cool about a RMA. In the absense of other reports, I don't want to make a big deal out of this - over the years, I have had to RMA lights for defective circuits with Fenix, JetBeam, Dereelight, Lumapower, etc. This is the first time anything has happened to one of my LiteFlux lights, so I suggest we all just give them the benefit of the doubt.

_*UPDATE:* LED Cool has responded to my RMA request, and is sending 2 replacements to increase the sample size results here. I will also be returning my malfunction light back to him, so he can investigate the source of the fault._

*UPDATE February 6, 2009:* The 2 replacement samples have arrived, and summary results have been added the main review in post #1. I've done several runtime tests, and show the comparison results below:



















I cannot believe how little output/runtime variability I'm seeing here! oo: Recall those are traces from 3 different lights. 

Of course, I've used the same RCR cell for all tests, and Surefire batteries from the same lot for the primary runs, to try to minimize my variables. But honestly, I typically get at least that much variability when I re-run the _same light _in my lightbox repeatedly. 

I'm very impressed that 3 samples of the LF3XT could produce such extremely good concordance on 4 different battery/output configs.

*UPDATE: February 7, 2009*

One area where the 3 lights differ is in how well focussed the reflector is. Here are some detailed comparisons:














As you can see, there is no great difference in the beam patterns. However, my lux meter shows that the replacement samples have ~10% and ~20% more throw than the original.

Here is how the front ends look:






Again, there is no great difference here. Upon examining the lights individually, it looks to me like the light with the greatest throw has the emitter slightly less recessed into the reflector than the others. Again, the difference is slight, and well within the variability I would expect for a manually-adjusted feature during assembly.

My thanks again to Khoo (LED Cool) for the extra samples. :thumbsup:

P.S.: One thing about buying from LED Cool - Malaysia has the most interesting stamps I've seen on a package (which was well packed by LED Cool):


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## madi05 (Jan 10, 2009)

as usual a very nice review,, all i can say it is my favorite light right now, lol i put me a clip on it and keep it with me all the time, i find it to be fun to play with (i dont really find any hesitation in the clicker , but i took mine apart and greased it up good, lol and i can see that could make it soft feeling if it is dry)and it is pretty darn bright , i compare it to my jetbeam M ,, it may not out throw it but to me it is more useful for around the house ,, inside and out 

i can add to the brass sleeve slides out when u unscrew the tailcap out only ,, and u can simply put tweezers in the two holes in the back of the pill to remove it and change the lens or orings , i'm going to have mine pvd coated and install me a tritium vial in the clicker and put me some red orings on it , i just love the red orings in the the jetbeam M ,, i love cosmetics, lola

i love your reviews they make me feel like i made good choices 

madi05


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## Peter P. (Jan 10, 2009)

Nice review:goodjob: 

I plan to get a LF3XT as my first light(unless i change my mind).


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## primox1 (Jan 10, 2009)

Eric, thanks for buying and reviewing this light for us! :kiss:
Amazing UI and beam, but Im not sure if its worth getting, since I already have the ex10...


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## notsobrite (Jan 10, 2009)

selfbuilt- great review!

i'm sorry you got a bad light- i did too. i've been waiting for eliteled to rma mine for a very long week now. i hope you have better cs with your malaysian connection 

notso


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## Flying Turtle (Jan 10, 2009)

Thanks for another great review, selfbuilt. It's always nice to have someone like yourself, who sees and really tests many lights, feel good about a light you own. Sorry to hear yours' is giving trouble. I hope it returns quickly.

Geoff


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## HKJ (Jan 10, 2009)

primox1 said:


> Eric, thanks for buying and reviewing this light for us! :kiss:
> Amazing UI and beam, but Im not sure if its worth getting, since I already have the ex10...



That depends, for just getting some light the ex10 is fine, but if you want a light to play with, the LF3XT is very good.
As long as the Nitecore interface does all that your want, there is no reason to get the LiteFlux when your have the NiteCore. But if your want some more possibilities and do not mind a complex interface, the LiteFlux is *IT*.


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## selfbuilt (Jan 10, 2009)

madi05 said:


> (i dont really find any hesitation in the clicker , but i took mine apart and greased it up good, lol and i can see that could make it soft feeling if it is dry) ... i can add to the brass sleeve slides out when u unscrew the tailcap out only


Thanks for that - I've just trying tightening against the switch, and it does seem help a bit with the button feel. Have to wait until I get new head to test it more thoroughly. I've added that point to the review. 



notsobrite said:


> i'm sorry you got a bad light- i did too. i've been waiting for eliteled to rma mine for a very long week now. i hope you have better cs with your malaysian connection


I'm sure Khoo (LED Cool) will deal with it promptly - hope EliteLED makes it right for you too. Out of curiosity, what was the issue with your light?



primox1 said:


> Eric, thanks for buying and reviewing this light for us! :kiss:





Flying Turtle said:


> It's always nice to have someone like yourself, who sees and really tests many lights, feel good about a light you own.


Thanks guys. As an aside, I noticed the discussion of buying vs receiving lights for review in the LF3XT discussion thread. 

I can see why most would think that it would easier to be biased in favour of lights you were sent to review. But in fact, I think our collective experience here shows how easy it is to become enamored with what you've bought with your own hard cash. This is why "customer satisfaction survey" numbers for new cars - where the customer is surveyed within a month of purchase - invariably yield >90% satisfied responses (who is not satisfied with something they've bought after doing research ahead of time?). It's not hard to become a fanboi ... 

In my own case, I tend to buy lights that I already expect to be high quality, based on feedback here (e.g. Eagletac) or previous experience (e.g. LiteFlux, Regalight, Fenix, etc.). It's often the lights that I get sent to review that experience issues. Although here too, I turn down reviewing lights that I don't think would be worth my time, so there is some pre-selection for the higher quality offerings.

At the end of the day, this is why I like relying on quantitative data - the throw, output, and runtime data are what they are.  Although even here, everyone needs to keep in mind we generally talking n=1 sample.

:wave:


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## M16 (Jan 10, 2009)

Thank you


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## Henk_Lu (Jan 10, 2009)

Great review for a great light!!! :twothumbs

Greets,

Henk


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## DM51 (Jan 10, 2009)

Excellent work once again - a fine review of what is clearly a very good light. 

The LF3XT seems to be a head-on challenge to the EX10, and with the extra dual-UI features, many will prefer the added versatility. Others may find the UI too complicated - Budman's flow-chart will be useful. The beam looks very nice and smooth. 

It's good to see another high-quality 1-cell light here to maintain the competitive standard. Let's hope there will be swift fix for that short-circuit problem. 

Moving this to the Reviews section.


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## h2oflyer (Jan 10, 2009)

Thanks for the review -- especially the runtimes and output comparison.

Walter :thumbsup:


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## notsobrite (Jan 10, 2009)

I'm sure Khoo (LED Cool) will deal with it promptly - hope EliteLED makes it right for you too. Out of curiosity, what was the issue with your light?







:wave:[/quote]

i had several issues beginning with it not ramping up or down, then i noticed it stayed warm all the time, even when off, and when i left it sitting on my desk for a few hours i came back to find a dead battery. it also didn't seem very bright compared to my lost ex-10. i thought i must have somehow done something wrong in the ui, so i reset it and i got it to ramp, but it still stayed warm, never really got very bright, and kept eating batteries.

after emails back and forth to eliteled i decided to return it,
so i ordered another one- and paid for it- but they cancelled my order and told me i had to send this one back first. i wasn't happy having to wait, but i sent it back via usps priority mail 8 days ago... they say they don't have it yet

i would have ordered mine from khoo because of his reputation for excellent service, but i wanted mine before christmas and eliteled is only a couple of states away:thinking:



notso


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## BabyDoc (Jan 10, 2009)

Selfbuilt, thank you for the excellent review! It was long awaited and there is no disappointment in waiting for it.

There a couple of things that I think need to be mentioned. First of all, the LF3XT has eliminated the turn on delay that was present in the LF5XT. It comes on instantly. There IS a 0.3 sec delay when the light is turned off or when changing levels, which is a necessity with a light of this type because it doesn't know if you are going to be issuing 1 click to turn off the light, or multiple clicks to do some other operation. It needs to wait to see what you are going to do.

While perhaps it need not be mentioned, since it was a feature of the LF5XT, a very useful function on the LF3XT is its battery voltage reporting. I am not sure how many other makers have this feature on their lights, but I ams certainly pleased that LiteFlux thought to incorporate this valuable feature. I am never caught by surprise that my battery needs changing since the report is a test of the battery under actual load conditions.

With regard to a reviewer spending his own hard cash for a light, I believe the review can be more biased as you said in favor of the light if the reviewer really likes the light. He may be rationalizing his wise purchase decision. However, if the light is disappointing and he feels his money is wasted, he can be more direct in his criticism than he might be had a maker or dealer sent him a free lights to review. Considering you had a sample failure, and your review is still ovrall very postitive, speaks lots about how you much you seem to like this light. I hope your replacement works as flawlessly as mine has.

Finally,It is unfortunate that small manufacturers like LiteFlux come out with a great product and do not get the notice or sales they deserve. Until people with your stature and experience review the product, few believe a little maker can even stand in the shadow of the big name makers who get big sales numbers often on hype or expectations alone. I am thrilled with my LF3XT and have been quite vocal about it in order to spread the love around. While I believe people are beginning to take notice of LiteFlux it seems to have taken a while. Again thanks for your great review! It helps a lot.


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## primox1 (Jan 10, 2009)

HKJ said:


> That depends, for just getting some light the ex10 is fine, but if you want a light to play with, the LF3XT is very good.
> As long as the Nitecore interface does all that your want, there is no reason to get the LiteFlux when your have the NiteCore. But if your want some more possibilities and do not mind a complex interface, the LiteFlux is *IT*.


 
Yeah, I guess it just comes down to some more bells and whistles. The UI seems like a lot of fun, but I guess I'll hold off for something in the future :candle:. Gotta be wise with the $$$. Thanks.


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## Peter P. (Jan 10, 2009)

Do all dealers sell the LF3XT with that display box? or only that CPF dealer?


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## BabyDoc (Jan 10, 2009)

HKJ said:


> That depends, for just getting some light the ex10 is fine, but if you want a light to play with, the LF3XT is very good.
> As long as the Nitecore interface does all that your want, there is no reason to get the LiteFlux when your have the NiteCore. But if your want some more possibilities and do not mind a complex interface, the LiteFlux is *IT*.


 
Actually, the biggest reason, IMO, to get the LF3XT is not just all the bells and whistles. It sure has them! (They are the bonus or the frosting on the cake. ) The biggest reason to get the LF3XT is for the reason we all buy flashlights, the light! By that I mean, the LF3XT has the smoothest, most beautiful beam of any single cell light that I own, regardless or price or interface. It provides a lower low with just as bright a high as the EX10. It certainly is the only single cell EDC light that has figured out how to tame the Q5. And if you compare it to the EX10 GDPLUS, IMO, it even beats the smoother beam on that. How? There is no color variation from hotspot to spill; no yellow corona around the hotspot; no bluish spill. From hotspot to spill the tint on the LF3XT is consistent.


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## BabyDoc (Jan 10, 2009)

Peter P. said:


> Do all dealers sell the LF3XT with that display box? or only that CPF dealer?


 
Yes, that's the way EliteLED in the US sells them too.


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## madi05 (Jan 10, 2009)

well im sry u had that kind of experience ,, i actually bought mine straight from the liteflux company, paid 62 even for it via paypal and it was shipped out that day and he replied to every email very fast and i asked for the warmer tint and to chek to make sure it function properly and he said he did and i got it after a week i believe and it hasnt missed a beat yet, had a speck on the inside of the glass and asked them how to remove and he sent me a diagram and told me to be careful when doing this ,, basically not to mess up the reflector ,, lol 

madi05


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## h2oflyer (Jan 10, 2009)

Actually BabyDoc the Fenix TK10 allthough not a single cell tamed the Q5 a long time ago and IMO has just as good a beam.


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## selfbuilt (Jan 10, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> There a couple of things that I think need to be mentioned. First of all, the LF3XT has eliminated the turn on delay that was present in the LF5XT. ... a very useful function on the LF3XT is its battery voltage reporting.


Both good points, thanks for the addition. One of the main reasons why I like to post my reviews here on CPF (instead of on my static website) is for the ongoing discussion that ensues. The developing thread really helps expands upon the review, and helps put it in context. :thumbsup:



> However, if the light is disappointing and he feels his money is wasted, he can be more direct in his criticism than he might be had a maker or dealer sent him a free lights to review. Considering you had a sample failure, and your review is still ovrall very postitive, speaks lots about how you much you seem to like this light.


A good point - I think that is a natural tendency (and one I try to guard against ). I try to be measured in my criticism of any light, since someone's livelihood is involved. At the same time, my main goal is to provide as unbiased an evaluation as possible, so members here can better decide for themselves how to to spend their own hard-earned cash. 

Given how LiteFlux & LED Cool handled previous issues with the LF5XT launch, I'm confident any problems that may crop up here will be delt with satisfactorily.



> Finally,It is unfortunate that small manufacturers like LiteFlux come out with a great product and do not get the notice or sales they deserve. Until people with your stature and experience review the product, few believe a little maker can even stand in the shadow of the big name makers ...


I appreciate the compliment, but I doubt my reviews have that much impact.  I've reviewed some interesting lights where there has been almost no interest or response in the thread. It seems to me having an active posting presence here by the manufacturer (or one of the respected high profile CPF dealers) is really a key factor in generating interest - assuming the light itself has merit. 

There's nothing I like better than seeing a manufacturer/dealer promptly deal with issues/problems raised by posters in these sorts of threads. It's the sort of thing that makes CPF such a great place to hang around. :wave:


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## BabyDoc (Jan 10, 2009)

h2oflyer said:


> Actually BabyDoc the Fenix TK10 allthough not a single cell tamed the Q5 a long time ago and IMO has just as good a beam.


 
Actually, I agree with you about the TK10. It's beam is nice! But it is a 2 cell light, built like a tank, heavy as hell, and not my idea of an EDC light. That's why I specifically said the LF3XT is the ONLY single cell light that has tamed the Q5. I am not sure why more single cell makers haven't done it. I understand its not just a matter of the orange peeling, but also having the correct focus. LiteFlux seems to do that with a deeper reflector. Fenix hasn't been able to do it with its smaller lights but perhaps the bigger TK10 having a bigger reflector, makes it easier to do it right, too.


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## xpea (Jan 10, 2009)

I want this light so much ! seems close to perfection. Simple and complex UI, lovely ring-free beam, good runtime and nice manufacturing :twothumbs

What is the bin of he emitter ? looks like a WC. can someone confirm ?

For my next EDC I was looking at the C2H but disappointing runtimes is a no go for now (waiting for Alan to fix this issue). If I can get something like a pure white WH bin (with no green), I'm sold :candle:


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## Hondo (Jan 10, 2009)

Very nice review, selfbuilt, as usual -thanks once again.

Here's a tip for all:

If you are like me and take a bit of time finding a "favorite" user defined setting, but then would like to ramp to somewhere else between min and max, just double click to min first, then ramp up to what you want (or down from max works too). Then the new ramped-to setting will not be memorized as a new user defined setting, and the next time you turn on you will be back at your old favorite level.


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## Flying Turtle (Jan 10, 2009)

After living with this for awhile it's hard to imagine settling for anything with a UI less versatile. Bravo to the engineers at LiteFlux. :twothumbs

Geoff


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## Simplicity05 (Jan 10, 2009)

Anyone know if you can request a warmer or cooler light from eliteled?

I couldn't seem to figure out how to order from Cool LED - do you just PM/Email him and he works with you?


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## bluecrow76 (Jan 10, 2009)

Thanks for the review Selfbuilt! I was curious to see how it stacked up to other lights... especially the other ones I have. :twothumbs


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## madi05 (Jan 11, 2009)

xpea said:


> I want this light so much ! seems close to perfection. Simple and complex UI, lovely ring-free beam, good runtime and nice manufacturing :twothumbs
> 
> What is the bin of he emitter ? looks like a WC. can someone confirm ?
> 
> For my next EDC I was looking at the C2H but disappointing runtimes is a no go for now (waiting for Alan to fix this issue). If I can get something like a pure white WH bin (with no green), I'm sold :candle:



mine has no green:twothumbs


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## StandardBattery (Jan 11, 2009)

Thanks for the Review. I'm a little worried because it seems as more of these lights are getting into the hands of the customers we're hearing of more issues. I will say though the build looks first-class. While there are 4 raised sections on the tail there are 8 sharp corners.


> The knurling is improved over early LiteFlux lights, where it was more for decoration - although still not overly aggressive here, it does help with grip.


I think this was a good point. My only other LiteFlux is the LF5-XT and I must say the knurling on that really is just decoration.


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## BabyDoc (Jan 11, 2009)

StandardBattery said:


> Thanks for the Review. I'm a little worried because it seems as more of these lights are getting into the hands of the customers we're hearing of more issues.


 
Actually, unlike the EX10/D10 with many complaining of switching problems, I have heard of very few issues with the LF3XT. It's just bad luck and embarassing that a reviewer should get a sample that failed. The few reports of problems with the LF3XT don't seem to be consistent with regards to what went wrong with any of them, indicating that the design is sound even if one of the components in an individual light might be defective. I don't think this necessarily indicates poor quality control either, since with any electronic product there are occasional component failures. (Even McGizmo recently had a problem with some of his Sundrop light engines failing, though the design was sound). The LF3XT has been out for a couple of months now and very few complaints have surfaced. I believe that LiteFlux learned from their tap off problem with the early LF5XTs, and have been gotten it right with the first run this time.


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## h2oflyer (Jan 11, 2009)

I've only seen 1 or 2 actual light failures,but there seems to be a fair number of ""failures" related to UI and especially programming.

Most of these "failures" are the result of the poor Operation Manual included with the light. The ommision of the 3C command to get out of function mode was the major culprit. Looking back at the LF5XT threads shows the same problem. If you didn't have a LF5XT and were new to this type of UI and programming, you were behind the curve.

As selfbuild has noted , Budman's flow chart should solve this. Again a great comparison review.

Walter


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## Oddjob (Jan 11, 2009)

Thanks for your efforts! Can't say I disagree with any part of your review. I really like mine do far and because of the 2 UI's I find I am using it more and more. Well done Liteflux!


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## BabyDoc (Jan 11, 2009)

h2oflyer said:


> I've only seen 1 or 2 actual light failures,but there seems to be a fair number of ""failures" related to UI and especially programming.
> 
> Most of these "failures" are the result of the poor Operation Manual included with the light. The ommision of the 3C command to get out of function mode was the major culprit. Looking back at the LF5XT threads shows the same problem. If you didn't have a LF5XT and were new to this type of UI and programming, you were behind the curve.
> 
> ...


 
Don't forget Matrixman's excellent retranslated manual. It also goes a long way to getting new LiteFlux owners up to speed with this light. 
If you read this manual while looking at Budman's flowchart, it all makes sense. If you had a LF5XT, you wouldn't have had a problem the programming. Except for how you toggle on the momentary with the LF3XT, the rest of the programming in the FUI of the LF3XT, is nearly exactly the same as the LF5XT.


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## h2oflyer (Jan 11, 2009)

The "improved" manual didn't show the missing 3C exit command.I'm surprised LF5XT owners didn't bring this up.


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## matrixshaman (Jan 11, 2009)

Thanks selfbuilt for another excellent review. The LF3XT is a real EDC winner IMO. I think it is mentioned in Budman's flowchart thread about the LF3XT manual I went through to modify and clarify a lot of things (mostly language related) and some additional good info BabyDoc put together to make it even easier to use. If anyone gets more out of manuals than flowcharts this is a good thing to have and can be found there and the original LF3XT thread (titled 'Is the LF3XT out yet' I believe). I personally do better with flowcharts  Much thanks to Budman for all the work he put into those.
Edit - funny I was just putting this info up about the manual and see BabyDoc beat me to it now. 
h2oflyer - if you can let me know the wording to add the 3c exit command and where to put it I'll edit the manual to include that.


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## madi05 (Jan 11, 2009)

all i can say is this ,IM A NEWBIE AND IT ISNT REALLY THAT HARD FOR ME TO PLAY WITH OR WORK, LOL so to the people that are having problems setting things ,, just ask and i bet u will get help ,, and if u want a normal flashlight just use it as that and dont go into the FUI mode , simple 


madi05


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## BabyDoc (Jan 11, 2009)

h2oflyer said:


> The "improved" manual didn't show the missing 3C exit command.I'm surprised LF5XT owners didn't bring this up.


 
If you read my tip section in the manual, the 3C exit command is mentioned, but you are absolutely correct that it should be more clearly included in the manual itself.

After making any function altheration issuing a 3C+PH enters that selection and place you back into the function setting menu mode. After that, to exit from the the function setting menu to the operation mode where you started, do 3C. If you change your mind and don't want to keep a function alteration toggled on in an individual function, don't do 3C+PH. Do just a 3C command which takes you directly back to the operation mode without stopping at the function setting menu and without saving the alteration.

When doing a factory reset with the 4th function in the function menu, ONLY a 3C+PH command is given. This resets the light to all the factory defaults and exits you back to the operation mode 1. No 3C command is issued here.

(What makes this part of the manual difficult to understand is that ONLY HERE in the function menu does the 3C command exit to the operation mode and save any changes you made in your functions. Everywhere else, 3C is an exit command that takes you directly back to the operation mode _WITHOUT saving any setting changes you may have made_. This makes the 3C a useful command for new users to remember should they get lost in one of the operation mode setting trees or function mode altration trees. In most cases, it will take them directly to the operation mode they had started with without stopping at any point in between.)


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## Simplicity05 (Jan 11, 2009)

Simplicity05 said:


> Anyone know if you can request a warmer or cooler light from eliteled?
> 
> I couldn't seem to figure out how to order from Cool LED - do you just PM/Email him and he works with you?



Seems as though this one slipped under the radar - anyone have any input on these questions?


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## selfbuilt (Jan 11, 2009)

h2oflyer said:


> The ommision of the 3C command to get out of function mode was the major culprit. Looking back at the LF5XT threads shows the same problem. If you didn't have a LF5XT and were new to this type of UI and programming, you were behind the curve.


Good point - and exactly why I didn't think of mentioning it here, since I got used to it on the LF5XT. But I did indeed stumble around that one with the LF5XT until I checked the simplified manual posted here on CPF.



matrixshaman said:


> If anyone gets more out of manuals than flowcharts this is a good thing to have and can be found there and the original LF3XT thread (titled 'Is the LF3XT out yet' I believe).


Thanks matrixshaman - if you have a direct link to the post, I'd be happy to add it to my review text (I tend to like manuals ).



Simplicity05 said:


> Seems as though this one slipped under the radar - anyone have any input on these questions?


In LED Cool's dealer thread in CPFMP, there are instructions on how to send him a payment. You should be able to check with him ahead of time to see if he can select a specific tint for you (may depend on what he has in stock). If his PM is full, I'd recommend e-mailing to one of his paypal addresses.


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## StandardBattery (Jan 11, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> *...* I have heard of very few issues with the LF3XT. *...* I believe that LiteFlux learned from their tap off problem with the early LF5XTs, and have been gotten it right with the first run this time.


I just said I'm a _little _worried. Something to watch. They do seem to be one of the best constructed smaller EDC lights for sure. Definitely the LF3-XT is the their best yet, they've made a number of small but great improvements. I like mine very much. I even like the LF5-XT for an AA light.


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## matrixshaman (Jan 11, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> Good point - and exactly why I didn't think of mentioning it here, since I got used to it on the LF5XT. But I did indeed stumble around that one with the LF5XT until I checked the simplified manual posted here on CPF.
> 
> 
> Thanks matrixshaman - if you have a direct link to the post, I'd be happy to add it to my review text (I tend to like manuals ).



Here is the direct link to the Revised LF3XT manual which is on Google docs. 

If anyone has any suggestions for revisions I can add more - preferably a paragraph made ready to insert with a suggestion on exactly where to put it in the manual. I'm wondering now if it would be good to add BabyDoc's info above on the 3c exit command in his tips section of the manual -- or would there be a good place within the manual? Unfortunately I have a very important project going that won't be done for several months yet so I have to pull back from anything that has any potential to take much time otherwise I'd be giving this a lot more attention. I consider the LF3XT to be not only one of my best lights but probably the most 'fun' light I have. But 'fun' is not on the agenda for several months - this is a 7 day a week job  

I'll also contact Budman to see if it's okay to put a link to his flowchart or to his message thread about it in the manual.


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## LED Cool (Jan 12, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> At the end of the day, this is why I like relying on quantitative data - the throw, output, and runtime data are what they are.  Although even here, everyone needs to keep in mind we generally talking n=1 sample.
> 
> :wave:



hello selfbuilt,
great review as always!
sorry about the failure of the first LF3XT. 
an additional 2 units of LF3XT have been shipped to you on last Friday, 9th January. these will make the sample rate n=3 and hopefully will provide a clearer/accurate picture of the quantitative data of LF3XT. i.e. provided you have the time and resources to spare. 

thanks.
khoo


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## selfbuilt (Jan 12, 2009)

LED Cool said:


> an additional 2 units of LF3XT have been shipped to you on last Friday, 9th January. these will make the sample rate n=3 and hopefully will provide a clearer/accurate picture of the quantitative data of LF3XT. i.e. provided you have the time and resources to spare.


Thanks Khoo, that's very generous of you. 

I will be happy do matching RCR and CR123A runtimes on the 2 replacements units, so as to increase the sample size results here. 

FYI, at Khoo's request via e-mail, I will return the malfunctioning unit to him once testing is complete. They want to investigate the source of the problem on my first sample, which I think is an excellent idea. :thumbsup:


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## DM51 (Jan 12, 2009)

Some posts have been removed from this thread to form a new one:

Liteflux LF3XT programming, info and questions 

Please let's keep this thread on topic.


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## BabyDoc (Jan 13, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> ......
> _*UPDATE:* Seems like the battery sleeve can come out - you need to unscrew it from the clicky switch by sticking a fine pair of tweezers down the barrel into the holes behind the spring. I haven't tried removing mine, but I was able to tighten it - which seems to have helped somewhat with the "soft" feel of the switch......_


 
SelfBuilt, can you be a bit more specific as to what tightening means? I thought the tube was held in place by an O-ring and that's why it wasn't easily removable. If it IS held in place by an O-ring, and the tube isn't threaded into the end of the light, what does tightening really mean? (I would intuitively think that if the tube was tightend towards the switch that it would decrease the travel of the switch and make the switch seem less definite in its action.)

Finally if it is really threaded in there and it can be tightened, does tightening mean you actually turned the tube clockwise with your tweezers in the hole behind the spring? Would a paper clip work as well?


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## madi05 (Jan 13, 2009)

No ,, the way u remove it or tighten it is to remove the switch plate, simply stick a screwdriver in the lanyard hole and unscrew it ,, once off the whole brass tube will slide right out ,, the tube has no threads on it so tightening it like u stated shouldnt matter imo

maybe u actually tightened the switchplate and didnt realize it from the inside, lol

i took my completely apart and will show some pics soon as i get mine back from being pvd coated, since i love this one so much , i have done some modifications ,, like i felt the crenulated bezel was so shallow it was not usefull , so i removed them, an like it even better now , lol and it makes it just a bit smaller for edcing imo,, and i also modified the switch plate a bit to be a hair thinner as well and now sharp edges 

hope this helps
madi05


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## BabyDoc (Jan 13, 2009)

madi05 said:


> No ,, the way u remove it or tighten it is to remove the switch plate, simply stick a screwdriver in the lanyard hole and unscrew it ,, once off the whole brass tube will slide right out ,, the tube has no threads on it so tightening it like u stated shouldnt matter imo
> 
> maybe u actually tightened the switchplate and didnt realize it from the inside, lol
> 
> ...


 
Joe, I am sure you are right about removing the cross ring surrounding the button, then the switch, and then the O-ring that holds the sleeve in place, but Selfbuilt clearly stated he didn't take the switch apart or remove the sleeve, but was somehow able to tighten the sleeve from the inside of the the tube. 
I can't picture this doing anything but turning the sleeve. I didn't think the sleeve was threaded. Or is it?


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## Flying Turtle (Jan 13, 2009)

madi05 said:


> i took my completely apart and will show some pics soon as i get mine back from being pvd coated, since i love this one so much , i have done some modifications ,, like i felt the crenulated bezel was so shallow it was not usefull , so i removed them, an like it even better now , lol and it makes it just a bit smaller for edcing imo,, and i also modified the switch plate a bit to be a hair thinner as well and now sharp edges
> 
> hope this helps
> madi05



Can't wait to see those pics. Sounds like some serious customizing. :twothumbs

Geoff


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## selfbuilt (Jan 13, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> SelfBuilt, can you be a bit more specific as to what tightening means?





madi05 said:


> No ,, the way u remove it or tighten it is to remove the switch plate, simply stick a screwdriver in the lanyard hole and unscrew it ,, once off the whole brass tube will slide right out ,, the tube has no threads on it so tightening it like u stated shouldnt matter imo


Yeah, my bad - madi is right, turning the battery sleeve didn't make a difference in the switch feel after all.

I've diassembed from the tailcap plate as madi described, and here's what I found:







The switch can also be disassembled from the tail retaining plate, using a pair of fine tweezers or snap-ring pliers. Here's what you'll find inside:






I think the "soft" issue I'm having may be from too much lube around the o-ring of the button cap, preventing the small spring that keeps the resistance between the button cap and the actual switch from "bouncing" back into shape after a button press. I'll have to play with it more to know for sure - at any rate, good to know you can access everything if you need to.


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## madi05 (Jan 13, 2009)

glad u see what i see now, lol i thought maybe being im a noob in flashlights i may have overstepped my boundaries, lol

do u see the little spring that goes in between the the switch and the switchcap ?,, just my watchsmith intuitions would tell me if someone has a mooshy clicker or it isnt clicking up fast enough ,, then i would think just using some tweezer and stretch that small spring just a bit would give it more zip or snap back and shouldn't hurt anything , imo 

and i to saw alot of grease around my oring as well, and same goes for watches and grease,, less is better than more , lol 

i feel the build construction on my unit is excellent , i cant wait to show u guys what i did to mine , it will be a week or so , i sent it out today to be pvd coated,, after shortening the overall dimensions of the light i think it will be even more comforatable in my pocket now 

btw. the tweezers is good to remove the pill to get to the reflector and or remove the glass and also to tighten it 

madi05


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## h2oflyer (Jan 14, 2009)

I've stretched both large spiral spring on swich board and small spring under switch button and it feels crisper. Really nice without O-ring , but of course that"s not possible.

Little red switch button has nice tactile feel --O-ring and aluminum cap seem to dampen the feel. I'll use for work tomorrow and see how it feels.I can do another small spring stretch later.

Walter


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## madi05 (Jan 15, 2009)

h2oflyer said:


> I've stretched both large spiral spring on swich board and small spring under switch button and it feels crisper. Really nice without O-ring , but of course that"s not possible.
> 
> Little red switch button has nice tactile feel --O-ring and aluminum cap seem to dampen the feel. I'll use for work tomorrow and see how it feels.I can do another small spring stretch later.
> 
> Walter



I had a feeling that would make it click stronger ,, mine wasnt mushy like some mentioned but im going to stretch it a hair anyway when i get my parts back, lol 

madi05


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## h2oflyer (Jan 15, 2009)

Some opening up tips: -- I didn't find tweezers or forceps strong enough to remove the pill to clean a few spots off the reflector and inside of lens.Same thing with switch retaining plate inside of tail cap.

I am using a small pair of heavy duty scissors in my model shop to turn these parts. Fits the slots perfect. I have filed the tip ends to small round points. Works good to access into deep recess.

I agree that washing outside of switch has limited value. As reported switch smoothness is gained by removing any excess lube.

IMO the micro switch tactile crispness is not transfered to switch cap because of O ring drag. I'm going to try finding a thinner one without comprimising water resistance. 

Thumbs up to Madi and other early posters for showing us how to get into the switch.

Walter


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## h2oflyer (Jan 15, 2009)

I was remiss in not thanking selfbuilt for his excellent pic's of the disassembled parts.


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## selfbuilt (Jan 15, 2009)

h2oflyer said:


> IMO the micro switch tactile crispness is not transfered to switch cap because of O ring drag. I'm going to try finding a thinner one without comprimising water resistance.


That's my best guess as well, although removing the extra lube and lengthening the small spring should help.

I'll let you know how my replacement samples feel when they arrive.


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## Flying Turtle (Jan 15, 2009)

Thanks for the additional tips, h2oflyer. I'm sure glad there are folks with more mechanical aptitude than me around here. I'll still probably wait for total failure before attempting a dissection.

Geoff


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## I came to the light... (Jan 15, 2009)

Hi selfbuilt, thanks for the review. I've had mine for a while now, and I'd like to emphasize a few points you made: the build quality is the best I've owned, and the beam is perfectly smooth :twothumbs. I don't have nearly selfbuilt's experience, but that is still saying something. 

But I also agree that the switch doesn't feel right at all. I hope they come out with a new mechanism and completely fix the problem.


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## Flying Turtle (Jan 15, 2009)

I really wouldn't say the switch is a problem, at least not mine. It is different than my other lights, but it works just fine. Is it that much different than a Novatac? I think the few times I've clicked and nothing happened is more attributable to what I'll call "lazy click syndrome". A firm sharp press seems to work every time.

Geoff


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## h2oflyer (Jan 16, 2009)

selfbuilt:

I replaced O-ring with spare(which was slightly smaller) and Alum. cap moves freely.I got smooth freeplay(but dead time) untill contact with micro switch.

I am now running without small spring--IMO it's just holding cap away from actual switch.

Cap is resting just above red switch button -- no delay -- will use light this way for a while. Not worried about light activating in my pocket as original spring pressure wasn't that great.

Again I thank you for the disassembly pic's

Walter


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## Budman231 (Jan 24, 2009)

Awesome review ! Thank you.


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## RGB_LED (Feb 2, 2009)

selfbuilt, thank you once again for an excellent review. I have been edc'ing a NC EX10 (as well as an NC D10) and this light looks like a potential alternative. I like the fact that there is a method to ramp up / down but still retain a memorized user-defined level. This was one of my beefs with the NC lights; you can set a user-defined level but once you ramped up or down, you lose the setting.

I also like the low voltage over-discharge protection system and potential to run 2xAA, although I was hoping for the ability to run 1xAA.

One question for owners of this light; I noticed there is a four-prong ‘star’ on the base but I can’t see if there is a hole in any of the prongs. Is there a hole in one of those prongs for a lanyard?

As for the issue with the sample light and suggestion that there is potential for biases: first; I commend selfbuilt for his disclosure that there was an issue with the sample. Second; about the defects in the samples and others… some other very well-known manufacturers have also experienced defects, issues and failures so I’m not surprised that LiteFlux has a few. If there were a disproportionate number, then I would be concerned. But, it sounds like they have solid CS and some of these issues seem isolated. Considering the quality of this light and the good things I’ve heard about the LF5XT (although I’m not a fan due to its size), I think this is a solid candidate for a main edc light.

For me, I tend to search out selfbuilt's reviews whenever I find out about a new light that interests me... and I appreciate selfbuilt's reviews since they do tend to be even, he states facts, then observations, provides comparisons to other lights and often provides context as well. I find there is more than enough information from his reviews for me decide for myself whether the light suits my needs. :twothumbs


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## kitelights (Feb 2, 2009)

Thanks for another excellent review. Not to take anything away from Eric, I'd also like to tip my hat to BabyDoc; his comments prior to this review made me take the plunge and get this light. I waited and got the warm tint and I'm not the least bit disappointed.

I've not had time to play with the 2nd UI yet, but if the light didn't have it, I'd still be happy with just the simple one.

I am having one problem that I haven't seen mentioned yet. I've had my light come on 3-4 times in my jeans pocket (the small 'change' pocket).

Has anyone else experienced this and are there any suggestions for preventing it? Could I have a sensitive switch? Would the tightening or removing some lube mentioned here affect this?


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 2, 2009)

I suppose a stiffer spring under the switch would help prevent accidental turn-on, but you could also just unscrew the tube about a 1/8 turn for lock out. I've not had this problem yet, but with the low pressure needed it's easy to imagine.

Geoff


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## Lite_me (Feb 2, 2009)

RGB_LED said:


> One question for owners of this light; I noticed there is a four-prong ‘star’ on the base but I can’t see if there is a hole in any of the prongs. Is there a hole in one of those prongs for a lanyard?


Yes, there is a hole through the end of one of the crosses. It comes with a lanyard intended for use there.


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## RGB_LED (Feb 3, 2009)

Thanks Lite_me, I appreciate your response to my question. :thumbsup:

Now, I only wish they had included a detachable clip... perhaps a LiteFlux rep is reading this thread...


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## DHart (Feb 4, 2009)

I've just started to get some time working with this light... it's pretty remarkable alright. And a not insignificant feature... the battery tester! Fantastic... seems to do a really precise measurement, presumably under load... it's now my official battery tester for CR123s and RCR123s. Oh....... and the beam is buttery smooth.


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## Nake (Feb 4, 2009)

DHart said:


> ... seems to do a really precise measurement, presumably under load...


 
I'm not sure it measures under load. I got a 3.9V reading from the light and my MM showed 3.88V.


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 4, 2009)

I think it is measuring under load, since you'll get different readings depending on which brightness level the light is set on when you do the test.

Geoff


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## h2oflyer (Feb 4, 2009)

The battery voltage readout under load is the best extra feature on this light. You will notice different voltage at 0.2% and 100%.

Walter


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## Nake (Feb 4, 2009)

I went and tried it again on max. This time I used a CR123 and an AW RCR123. The light showed 2.5V and MM showed 2.83V with the primary. With the AW the light showed 3.9V and MM 3.86V. 

So, I would say the light measures under load. The AW is new and apparently not affected by the voltage draw.


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## selfbuilt (Feb 6, 2009)

*UPDATE:* The 2 replacement samples from LED Cool arrived, and I've re-done several runtime tests. Below are the results, with sample #1 referring to the original LF3XT that I bought, and #2 and #3 are the replacements LED Cool sent.




















I don't know about you, but I cannot believe how little output/runtime variability I'm seeing here! oo: Recall those are traces from 3 different lights. 

Of course, I've used the same RCR cell for all Li-ion tests, and Surefire batteries from the same lot for the primary runs, to try to minimize my variables. But honestly, I typically get at least that much variability when I re-run the _same light _in my lightbox repeatedly. 

I must say, I'm very impressed that 3 samples of the LF3XT could produce such extremely good output and runtime concordance on 4 different battery/output configs.

One area where the 3 lights differ is in how well focussed the reflector is. Here's the revised summary chart:






That is a little more understandable, since the reflector/pill focus would be manually set at the factory. The human element tends to add some variability. 

Thanks again to LED Cool for the replacements. 

P.S.: These results have been added the main review text in posts #1 and #2.


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 6, 2009)

Thanks for doing this extra testing, selfbuilt. Your dedication to accuracy is most commendable. We really appreciate your work.

Makes me feel even happier to be a LF3XT owner.

Geoff


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## matrixshaman (Feb 6, 2009)

selfbuilt, thanks again for adding these additional samples in your review and letting us know in the other thread I started on the LF3XT. I haven't seen it mentioned here and hopefully I didn't miss it. I believe you said the newer samples had slightly better focus in the reflectors. Do the new ones you have still also have the excellent beam pattern with very little or no 'Cree rings' ?


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## selfbuilt (Feb 6, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> I believe you said the newer samples had slightly better focus in the reflectors. Do the new ones you have still also have the excellent beam pattern with very little or no 'Cree rings' ?


Subjectively, I haven't noticed a big difference when playing around with them one at a time. But since I've just finished the runtime tests, I'll try to line them up for a direct beamshot comparison to verify. 

That will have to wait until tomorrow though.


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## h2oflyer (Feb 6, 2009)

selfbuilt - Thanks for the extra, extra reviews. great to see that focus (throw) seems to be the the only real variable. Hopefully LiteFlux has recognized and are trying to improve on this area. 

Walter


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## bondr006 (Feb 7, 2009)

Thanks for the great review, and the new additions selfbuilt. I am still anxiously awaiting to see the results of the 1xCR123A Min - Primary (Surefire) runtime test. Any eta on that?

I am with Geoff(Flying Turtle)....Very happy to be a LF3XT owner. I carry this light with me every day.


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## DHart (Feb 7, 2009)

Thought I'd add a couple of beamshots of relevance... comparing my LF3XT to other 1-cell pocketable lights on max output.

LF3XT - RCR123





Romisen RC-N3 Q5 1*RCR123





E1B - CR123





L1 - RCR123





L1 - CR123


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## Zeruel (Feb 7, 2009)

Looks like LF3XT turned the sky red too! :laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## selfbuilt (Feb 7, 2009)

OK, here are some detailed comparisons:














As you can see, there is no great difference in the beam patterns. However, my lux meter shows that the replacement samples have ~10% and ~20% more throw than the original.

Here is how the front ends look:






Again, there is no great difference here. Upon examining the lights individually, it looks to me like the light with the greatest throw has the emitter slightly less recessed into the reflector than the others. Again, the difference is slight, and well within the variability I would expect for a manually-adjusted feature during assembly. The consistency is actually fairly good.



bondr006 said:


> Thanks for the great review, and the new additions selfbuilt. I am still anxiously awaiting to see the results of the 1xCR123A Min - Primary (Surefire) runtime test. Any eta on that?


Hmmm, I hadn't planned to do that, since the Min output mode on primary is about the same as the Novatac 120P on level 2 (i.e. one step up from its Min mode). I would expect it to last quite a very long time at this level ...


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## bondr006 (Feb 8, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> Hmmm, I hadn't planned to do that, since the Min output mode on primary is about the same as the Novatac 120P on level 2 (i.e. one step up from its Min mode). I would expect it to last quite a very long time at this level ...



Sorry selfbuilt. I guess I was confused. :duh2: I assumed that the word "pending" next to the lights without results meant the testing was still in progress. Where can I find the runtime for the 120P on level 2? Thanks.


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## selfbuilt (Feb 8, 2009)

bondr006 said:


> Sorry selfbuilt. I guess I was confused. :duh2: I assumed that the word "pending" next to the lights without results meant the testing was still in progress. Where can I find the runtime for the 120P on level 2? Thanks.


Yeah, I've been meaning to change that word since it gives the wrong impression. I mean "pending" in the sense of an ideal world where I had unlimited time on my hands. 

I don't think there is a posted runtime for the Novatac that low. But based on an earlier HDS runtime thread in CFPMP (where I seem to recall that many months was observed), it would simply take too long to test. Suffice it to say, I would expect at least weeks of continuous runtime for the LF3XT on its lowest level.


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## madi05 (Feb 8, 2009)

another great review , congrats ,, i still love my lf3xt :thumbsup:


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## DHart (Feb 8, 2009)

The LF3XT is one of my faves... alongside my EDC (Romisen RC-C3)


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## BabyDoc (Feb 8, 2009)

I add my thanks to those who appreciate your testing all 3 samples.
It's nice to know that the quality control, except for sample #1, is fairly consistent. I guess that doesn't surprise me considering most people aren't complaining about any consistent problem. Your sample #1 failing in the way it did seemed unique, at least among those who have reported problems here. I wonder if we will ever hear back from LiteFlux with regards to what went wrong with #1 after they get the chance to examine it.

While I hear people asking Khoo to select warm or neutral samples, it is my impresson from people's descriptions, that the tint doesn't vary that much between units. Most people say their lights are neutral to cool. Do you see any tint variability with the samples you were sent?


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## Lite_me (Feb 9, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> While I hear people asking Khoo to select warm or neutral samples, it is my impresson from people's descriptions, that the tint doesn't vary that much between units. Most people say their lights are neutral to cool. Do you see any tint variability with the samples you were sent?


Let me jump in here real quick.

Selfbuilts sample shots look very similar to me. I have experienced 2 samples of the LF3XT. Mine and my brothers. Both were purchased from EliteLED about a week apart. Ours are vastly different in tint. Mine is mostly white looking with an ever so slight rose tint to it. Most noticeable in the spill. Not at all bad tho, I like it. My brothers is very warm. It's the warmest Q5 I've ever seen. It's _almost_ as warm as my one Rebel light. And being that warm, it's not as bright looking as mine either. When compared, they are _very_ different. About as vast of difference as I've seen in two samples of the same light. I was quite surprised when I saw his. He's trying to get used to it. He prefers mine, and frankly, so do I.


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## bondr006 (Feb 9, 2009)

I have also seen a difference in the tint of different LF3XT's. When I was over to Geoff's(Flying Turtle) house, we compared ours, and my LF3XT was quite a bite warmer as opposed to his very neutral white tint.


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## selfbuilt (Feb 9, 2009)

Lite_me said:


> I have experienced 2 samples of the LF3XT. Mine and my brothers. Both were purchased from EliteLED about a week apart. Ours are vastly different in tint.


I agree, and would expect tints to vary. Although my 3 samples are all very close, Khoo knows that I prefer warm-tints over cool, so he may have been selecting that for me (he typically offers that service to any who ask - within the limits of what he has available, of course).

Of my 3 samples, I would say #1 was indeed slightly warm, where as #2 and #3 are about as neutrally-white as you could expect for this class of emitter (with #2 being the ever so slightly warmer of the two). The comparison beam pics capture the difference well.

Now that I've done the runtimes, I will be sending the original defective light #1 back to Khoo for Liteflux to examine. I will let you know if I hear anything back in regards to the source of its failure.

And sample #2 is now on my belt as my new EDC for the time being, replacing my NiteCore D10 GDP which has occupied that spot for the last couple of months.  I will let you know how my EDC experience with this light goes over the next few weeks. 

P.S.: The battery voltage read-out feature is fun, since I plan to run on RCR for the next little while.

:wave:


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## DHart (Feb 9, 2009)

selfbuilt... it would seem that with your experience with so many lights that your choice of the D10 and LF3xt as your EDCs, that these are among the 1-cell lights receiving your highest acclaim? Or do you just rotate EDC lights frequently to check them out more long term?


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## selfbuilt (Feb 9, 2009)

DHart said:


> selfbuilt... it would seem that with your experience with so many lights that your choice of the D10 and LF3xt as your EDCs, that these are among the 1-cell lights receiving your highest acclaim? Or do you just rotate EDC lights frequently to check them out more long term?


A bit of both activities, frankly. 

Although I can't EDC everything I get, I do try to test out significant new lights for a couple of weeks of EDC use to see how I like them (and find out how they perform in real use). I then typically update my reviews with any relevant new observations. FYI, that's how I discovered the narrower beam of the LF5XT wasn't a problem in use - I simply automatically adapted how I carried it to suit my needs. 

In-between testing, I have tended to revert to the D10 (originally Cree version, then later the GDP, carried in the Fenix L1D holster). I like this light for its interface, ease of use, battery flexibility and size - very small, but still comfortable in my hand (in contrast, I find the EX10 a bit small for my relatively long fingers, but YMMV). I generally prefer 1xAA-size lights, and run on Li-ion. Prior to that, the NDI was probably my other longest-running EDC.

The LF3XT has a great interface and relatively good size (about the minimum length I like, and the maximum width). I'm trying it out in the Fenix P3D holster. We'll see if I revert I revert back to the D10 after this, or carry on with the LF3XT ... 

Lemme think .. EDC's I've known and (mostly) loved ... Fenix L1D, JetBeam C-LE, Rexlight 2.1, Novatac 120P, Nitecore Defender Infinity, JetBeam Jet-I MK IBS, NiteCore D10-Q5, Liteflux LF5XT, NiteCore D10-GDP ... and the beat goes on.


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## DHart (Feb 9, 2009)

Good to know... and thanks so much for your great contributions to this forum!


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## kraz (Feb 10, 2009)

Selfbuilt,
Thanks for another great review. I could resist no longer and bought the LF3XT rationalizing the purchase as the only light I knew of that has LiFePo battery protection built in! 
The tint on mine is very warm, looking almost yellowish in my white door comparison to my NDI-GD, EX10-GD, and even the Bitz Ti.

It's a feature packed, versatile light and brings out my repressed flashaholism:devil:. Always good to come out of the closet even if it is darker in there


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## PetaBread (Feb 14, 2009)

:twothumbs to EliteLed for the fast and safe shipping of my LF3XT. Arrived in 4 days.


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## BabyDoc (Feb 23, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> And sample #2 is now on my belt as my new EDC for the time being, replacing my NiteCore D10 GDP which has occupied that spot for the last couple of months.  I will let you know how my EDC experience with this light goes over the next few weeks.


 
I know it's only a couple of weeks since you started carrying the LF3XT as an EDC. I am anxious to hear your impressions after living with this light for a while. 

The only problem I am having with my light is I like it so much I haven't been thinking about buying another new light for quite a while. While I don't think a flashaholic ever gets cured, the LF3XT certainly has put me into a long remission.


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## selfbuilt (Feb 23, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> I know it's only a couple of weeks since you started carrying the LF3XT as an EDC. I am anxious to hear your impressions after living with this light for a while.


I have made a few observations. 

First and foremost, I'm still really impressed with the beam - it's beautifully smooth, with none of the tint variation of my D10-GDP (I had switched from the D10-Q5 to the D10-GDP because I liked the lack of rings and smoother corona of the GDP version). This is more of a plus for me than I expected - I really enjoy the beam pattern every time I turn it on. Also, I don't find the spillbeam too narrow (like the LF5XT, I seem to have just automatically adjusted my carry method).

Functionally, the light has also worked smoothly and reliably every time I've reached for it - no surprises (something I insist on in an EDC). I also like the battery voltage read-out, since it gives me an easy way to estimate battery life (I run in on an AW RCR, just like I ran my D10 on an AW 14500).

A few quirks - the most serious of which is accidental activation of the light a couple of times when I went to holster it (i.e. switch is very sensitive, activated as I was sliding it into my Fenix P2D holster). I caught it every time this happened, so no biggie - but it is something I watch for now.

Perceptually, I've also noticed that the brightness steps at the very low end of the ramp are more noticeable on the LF3XT than I remember them being on the D10 (i.e. I'm more conscious of it actually stepping up from minimum on the LF3XT, whereas the D10 seemed a bit smoother for the first few fractions of a second). Hardly a big deal, but there does seem to be a subtle difference I can detect.

All in all, a pretty smooth ride so far. I'm going to keep EDCing it awhile longer before making up my mind.


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 23, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> The only problem I am having with my light is I like it so much I haven't been thinking about buying another new light for quite a while. While I don't think a flashaholic ever gets cured, the LF3XT certainly has put me into a long remission.



I know exactly how you feel. Getting interested in other lights that don't offer programming or at least ramping is tough. I did break down and get a Photon Freedom, but that's as far as I've strayed.

Geoff


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## Lite_me (Feb 23, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> I know exactly how you feel. Getting interested in other lights that don't offer programming or at least ramping is tough. I did break down and get a Photon Freedom, but that's as far as I've strayed.
> 
> Geoff


I'm in the same boat. It's just too feature rich and with the the beautiful smooth beam, it is just too hard to part with as my EDC. I'd have to carry 2 or 3 of my other lights to match what this _one_ light will do. 



selfbuilt said:


> A few quirks - the most serious of which is accidental activation of the light a couple of times when I went to holster it (i.e. switch is very sensitive, activated as I was sliding it into my Fenix P2D holster). I caught it every time this happened, so no biggie - but it is something I watch for now.


 I've had mine come On when setting it down on the table a couple of times. When this happens, it's doesn't respond to clicks hardly at all. It just stays On. One time when this happened I got it to jump to Low w/ a dbl click but it locked there. I have to unscrew the light to break battery contact to fix it. 

Also, yesterday when I used the light, it went for about 15 sec and shut down. When I checked the battery it was at 3.25v. (AW protected) Sometime during the day it had to have turned on and ran the battery dead. I usually carry it in my pocket. I had just checked it the night before and it was ok. Not sure if it was a knock that turned it on or an accidental button press. I have a clip on it and I have had it come on by snapping the clip against the body. What's up with that!


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## selfbuilt (Feb 24, 2009)

Lite_me said:


> Sometime during the day it had to have turned on and ran the battery dead. I usually carry it in my pocket. I had just checked it the night before and it was ok. Not sure if it was a knock that turned it on or an accidental button press. I have a clip on it and I have had it come on by snapping the clip against the body. What's up with that!





Flying Turtle said:


> I did break down and get a Photon Freedom, but that's as far as I've strayed.


Ironically, I've had the exact same experience of finding an EDC light nearly dead - and it was always with my Photon Freedom! 

I suspect the reason there is because I carry it on my keychain in my pants pocket. A few times I've noticed a "glow" coming from my pants, and it turns out the Photon was activated. But on a couple of occasions, it seems to have run down the batteries without my noticing - I go to use it, and nothing happens.

This is why I carry all other clicky lights in a pouch on my belt. The advantage of the P2D holster is its partially open at the bottom, so you can see the light is on.

Haven't experience any mis-functioning of the LF3XT yet, but it is still early days. Unfortunately, the potential is there for any complex light with a programmable interface (or for that matter, any electronic device - I've had to remove the battery from my laptop or blackberry on more than a few occasions to restart them). Even my D10 has experienced the rare contact issue or two (often after a battery change) - these were always resolved with a quick clean of the contact points.


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## Hondo (Feb 25, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> Ironically, I've had the exact same experience of finding an EDC light nearly dead - and it was always with my Photon Freedom!
> 
> I suspect the reason there is because I carry it on my keychain in my pants pocket. A few times I've noticed a "glow" coming from my pants, and it turns out the Photon was activated. But on a couple of occasions, it seems to have run down the batteries without my noticing - I go to use it, and nothing happens.


 
That's why I keep the 3 minute auto-shut-off activated. It is not an advertised feature for some wierd legal reason. You just go into "signal" mode with at least 5 rapid presses. Then when deactivating signal by holding the button, don't let go for about 5 extra seconds after the light goes out, at which point it will flash, and the feature is active. To cancel it, just go through the signal set/unset, but let go after the light goes out. It will step down through the levels when it shuts off so you know it is coming, although when set at lower levels that happens real fast.

My LF3XT has not had any problems, and is a real "jack of all trades" light. I was hoping someone might have some update on the issue of the non-anodized holes in the sink that can appearantly result in a short to the bare wires that run through them. If I may have this condition, I would probably go in to add some insulation to the wires for safety sake.


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## selfbuilt (Feb 25, 2009)

Hondo said:


> That's why I keep the 3 minute auto-shut-off activated. It is not an advertised feature for some wierd legal reason. You just go into "signal" mode with at least 5 rapid presses. Then when deactivating signal by holding the button, don't let go for about 5 extra seconds after the light goes out, at which point it will flash, and the feature is active.


Thanks for the tip Hondo - I'll have to try that on my Photon Freedom. :thumbsup:


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 25, 2009)

I'm still waiting for someone to figure out a similar shutdown formula for the LF3XT. BTW, I just got a Freedom w/orange LED and it will not do the 3 min. shut off trick for some reason. Works fine on my Protons and Rex. I plan to ask LRI about this.

Geoff


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## BabyDoc (Feb 26, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> I have made a few observations.
> 
> 
> Perceptually, I've also noticed that the brightness steps at the very low end of the ramp are more noticeable on the LF3XT than I remember them being on the D10 (i.e. I'm more conscious of it actually stepping up from minimum on the LF3XT, whereas the D10 seemed a bit smoother for the first few fractions of a second). Hardly a big deal, but there does seem to be a subtle difference I can detect.
> ...


 

Selfbuilt, I notice that the brightness steps at the very low end are more noticeable with the LF3XT, but I see this as an advantage, rather than a disadvantage. It allows me to easily lower the light level to the exact low I want, and not overshoot to minimum like I often do when ramping down more quickly on the EX10.


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## h2oflyer (Feb 26, 2009)

Accidental activation with the poor tactile switch is the reason I don't EDC the LF3XT anymore. I don't use a holster and find the sharp tail cross corners are a pocket wrecker. Great light - just not made for pockets.

Walter


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## Zeruel (Feb 26, 2009)

h2oflyer said:


> Accidental activation with the poor tactile switch is the reason I don't EDC the LF3XT anymore. I don't use a holster and find the sharp tail cross corners are a pocket wrecker. Great light - just not made for pockets.
> 
> Walter



+1 The 2 x 4 sharp edges on the tail >>> :thumbsdow


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## DHart (Feb 27, 2009)

Yep... unfortunately, the LF3XT isn't perfect, dang it. Liteflux did chamfer/bevel all the upper edges of the rear cross, but failed to do so to the small side edges. Those little side edges are waaaay too sharp. It's such a great light, I'd never give it up for just that, so I'm thinking about to do a little light filing... to do what we Colt 1911 fans sometimes do to the guns sharp edges... DEHORN! oo: It'll leave some edges sans anodizing, but what the heck... it'll gain a nice, worn, two-toned look!


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## BabyDoc (Feb 27, 2009)

I agree that the corners on the cross tailswitch are too sharp, yet I have never wrecked a pocket with it or cut myself on it. I don't wear tight trousers, which could account for why my pockets are intact. Most of the time I carry my light in a jacket or coat pocket, which may also account for why I also have never accidentally activitated the light. 

As far as tactile feedback is concerned, I have no issues with it from a functional point of view. While it might feel more reassuring to have a definite click like the Novatac, I don't have any problems with misfirings. In fact as my LF3XT has gotten older, it seems to feel more responsive, which could be because the o-ring there is wearing down a bit, or perhaps my just adjusting to its feel or lack of feel. 

According to Gary at EliteLED, LiteFlux is aware of the complaints regarding the sharp corners and should be able to correct the problem with the next run of lights. However, with the economy being slow, it might take a while to sell out on the first run.


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 27, 2009)

I've had no problems, too, with the corners or accidental activation. Sometimes if I don't press the switch sharply enough it will not come on, but with a firm press, no trouble. I've found hanging it off belt or belt loop just inside a pocket works well. Its weight is on the lanyard and not on the bottom of the pocket. Maybe this has helped to save some wear.

Geoff


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## Thujone (Feb 27, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> I've had no problems, too, with the corners or accidental activation. Sometimes if I don't press the switch sharply enough it will not come on, but with a firm press, no trouble.
> Geoff



+1


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## h2oflyer (Feb 27, 2009)

BabyDoc

Please understand that I am asking this question in a very respectful manner.

Are you a sales agent for EliteLED ?

Walter


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## BabyDoc (Feb 27, 2009)

h2oflyer said:


> BabyDoc
> 
> Please understand that I am asking this question in a very respectful manner.
> 
> ...


 

Absolutely not! 

Although my enthusiasm in the forum for the LF3XT and the good service received from EliteLED seems to benefit them, I don't receive their remuneration in any way, nor do I seek any. Gary and I correspond occasionally by Email, as he would with any of you, if you were you to ask a question or offer suggestions, as I have. That is the extent of my relationship with EliteLED, other than my 4 purchases over the past year: an Olight T10, 2-LF5xts, and 1-LF3xt, for which I paid full price like the rest of you.


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## DHart (Feb 27, 2009)

I decided to dehorn the rear cross edges on my LF3XT... sure feels nice in the hand now... smooth! And the bare aluminum edges look pretty cool as well. I need to clean it up a little better before calling it good, but I'm really happy with the results. I started with a small file but quickly gave that up and went with gentle dremel work with a very small sandpaper drum bit.


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 27, 2009)

DHart said:


> I decided to dehorn the rear cross edges on my LF3XT... sure feels nice in the hand now... smooth! And the bare aluminum edges look pretty cool as well. I need to clean it up a little better before calling it good, but I'm really happy with the results. I started with a small file but quickly gave that up and went with gentle dremel work with a very small sandpaper drum bit.



Please show us how it looks after it's done. One of your fine pics might convince me to dust off the dremel.

Geoff


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## bluecrow76 (Feb 27, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> Please show us how it looks after it's done. One of your fine pics might convince me to dust off the dremel.
> 
> Geoff



+1 Would love to see it!


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## kaichu dento (Feb 27, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> According to Gary at EliteLED, LiteFlux is aware of the complaints regarding the sharp corners and should be able to correct the problem with the next run of lights. However, with the economy being slow, it might take a while to sell out on the first run.


Doc (otherwise know as Mr. LF3XT) do you think there's any chance they'll offer a 5A or other warmer tint at that time?


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## DHart (Feb 28, 2009)

It looks like a well loved, well worn tool now! Well, at least the cross edges do. It's got the look of an old friend... and is becoming that more and more every day! I would never get rid of this light anyway, that's why I had no qualms about just taking down those edges. The details can be cleaned up more (and I'll do that, in time), but as is it gets the job done. Sure do love the dremel for stuff like this.

Before, my fingers always seemed to want to run around those sharp edges... and they still do... but now the feel is soft and sculpted. And the sculpted areas now match the color of the button! 

I made this photo with my point and shoot, which doesn't manual focus worth a damn... but you get the idea anyway...


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## Wallace (Feb 28, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> According to Gary at EliteLED, LiteFlux is aware of the complaints regarding the sharp corners and should be able to correct the problem with the next run of lights. However, with the economy being slow, it might take a while to sell out on the first run.



I wonder if they would offer the "Dehorned Rev. 2 Switch Plate" for us early adopters to purchase? I've never cut myself on that either, but those 4x double-corners do feel overly sharp and not comfortable to hold. I would be happy to fork out a reasonable fee and get mine replaced... I just don't want to buy the light again.

Btw I got mine from EliteLED as well, ordered on a Wednesday, arrived on Friday!! And I am in Ohio! Great service indeed.



Hondo said:


> That's why I keep the 3 minute auto-shut-off activated.



I wish there is a similar feature on the LF3XT... I had mine run down on me twice because I accidentally activated it while holstering it (also using a Fenix P2D holster). Especially after I did a hack to fix the squashy switch feel... The switch now has a much better tactile feel, very sensitive and I had never missed a click anymore. But that's a double-edged sword.



W.


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## h2oflyer (Feb 28, 2009)

Wallace - :welcome:

+1 on double edge sword re switch

Walter


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## bluecrow76 (Feb 28, 2009)

DHart, me likes! I think you just raised the value of yours! :twothumbs


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## Lite_me (Feb 28, 2009)

I like it too. I did the same to mine but I only did the sharp points. Doesn't look that bad at all. (not meaning yours does)

Hey, how bout this. Now, remove the switch cross section, remove the guts, and then remove the anodizing. Polish it up a bit, put er all back together and it will no longer look so worn. Whatdaya guys think? Would that look OK?


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## h2oflyer (Feb 28, 2009)

Great idea Lite_me

I don't want to lose the ano. on the knurling so i"m going to remove the sharp edges and sand off the ano. from the top of the cross and the four outside edges and leave the ano. on the semi circles.

Walter


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 28, 2009)

Nice looking "dehorning" job there. Definitely gives it the well used tool look. Now where is my dremel?

Geoff


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## BabyDoc (Feb 28, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> Doc (otherwise know as Mr. LF3XT) do you think there's any chance they'll offer a 5A or other warmer tint at that time?


 
My understanding is that they still have a lot of the LF5XT's to sell. According to Khoo in the MarketPlace, the new Q5 version of the LF5XT's are relatively warm. There was a question once about whether the LF3XT interface might be incorporated into the LF5XT and the answer was there isn't room for it. Why, I don't know. (BTW, in case you didn't know, I am also a fan of the McGizmo SunDrop. If you like a warm light with really accurate color rendition, it is really great. It can't compare to any other light I own, even the LiteFluxes. It is the only light with color rendition good enough to use in my pediatric practice.)


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## BabyDoc (Feb 28, 2009)

h2oflyer said:


> Great idea Lite_me
> 
> I don't want to lose the ano. on the knurling so i"m going to remove the sharp edges and sand off the ano. from the top of the cross and the four outside edges and leave the ano. on the semi circles.
> 
> Walter


 
Walter, I really like that idea!:twothumbs When you get it done, show us how it looks.


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## DHart (Feb 28, 2009)

I'm looking forward to seeing the mods you guys are doing!


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## kaichu dento (Feb 28, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> My understanding is that they still have a lot of the LF5XT's to sell. According to Khoo in the MarketPlace, the new Q5 version of the LF5XT's are relatively warm. There was a question once about whether the LF3XT interface might be incorporated into the LF5XT and the answer was there isn't room for it. Why, I don't know. (BTW, in case you didn't know, I am also a fan of the McGizmo SunDrop. If you like a warm light with really accurate color rendition, it is really great. It can't compare to any other light I own, even the LiteFluxes. It is the only light with color rendition good enough to use in my pediatric practice.)


Yeah, I knew you were a huge Sundrop fan, but lately it seems that you've really taken to your new mistress, the LF3XT. My main hesitation on any McGizmo's I've seen is that I just don't like lights that step outside the straight barrel shape. If he would make a Lunasol 20/3s with a straight barrel shape I'd probably already have one, if it had the warmth of the SunDrop especially, but pretty much impossible (I think) to do.

Back to the original subject, with warmer tints available I'm probably going to get one of these soon. Then I'll have more questions for you! :nana:


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## Lite_me (Mar 1, 2009)

h2oflyer said:


> Great idea Lite_me
> 
> I don't want to lose the ano. on the knurling


That's why I suggested removing the cross/switch holder first. It unscrews. And what I also had in mind was using some type of remover like Easy-Off oven cleaner to remove the anodizing. Your way may work and look just fine tho. Maybe even better.
I wanna see.


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## h2oflyer (Mar 1, 2009)

Lite_me

I know the tail cross comes off. I have removed it many times for various switch mods (see diff. LF3XT threads).

After I dremel off the sharp edges; to protect the threads on tail cross I am going to wrap the knurling in tape and reinstall the tail cap in battery tube.

You can now use emery cloth (220 grit) on a small flat stick and rotate tail cap to get nice uniform flat finish on cross ends. If you try this method freehand you will probably end up with rounded cross ends. 

Just be sure tape is secure. I didn't want to remove ano. from hole as a I didn't want o-ring to be too lose.

Walter


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## DHart (Mar 1, 2009)

The cross tail piece on mine is on so tight that I didn't think it was removeable... any suggestions on loosening it?


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## h2oflyer (Mar 1, 2009)

DO NOT use vice grips or vice to hold body as you will scratch or squash body. 

Use something grippy to hold body(I use kitchen type rubber strap wrench) to hold body and insert hardened rod (small srewdriver) in hole in cross and try to break it free with a jerk. I don't recall any thread locker in mine - it was just really tight.

Walter


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## Lite_me (Mar 1, 2009)

DHart said:


> The cross tail piece on mine is on so tight that I didn't think it was removeable... any suggestions on loosening it?


DHart: This might help.. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2801918#post2801918


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## DHart (Mar 1, 2009)

Thanks for that! I need a strap wrench for sure!


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## Wallace (Mar 2, 2009)

DHart said:


> The cross tail piece on mine is on so tight that I didn't think it was removeable... any suggestions on loosening it?



My 2 cents: I use grip tape on the body, and a small L-shape allen key on the tail cap (instead of a small screw driver or something). First wrap the body with grip tape, you can get them from automotive stores or just use the same tape that you re-wrap tennis racket handles with. I usually save the left-over tennis racket tapes for these occasions, and they do give you more grip compare to bare hand. Then, insert the short end of the allen key in the lanyard hole, and grip the long end to turn it. An allen key that is just the right size (aka barely fits into the lanyard hole) works best. I found the right-angle from the allen key make it a little easier and more natural to unscrew the tail cap, as compare to a small screw driver. But that's just personal preference.

Hope that helps!


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## DHart (Mar 2, 2009)

Hey... thanks Wallace & Lite Me.... I was able to use an Allen key in the hole and just gripped the body tightly with my hand and got the end cap off! The rear cap threads were a little rough & gritty, so I cleaned 'em up, Nyogel'd the o-ring and the threads and put it all back together again nice and smooth. Popped in a fresh 'n' hot 4.2v AW protected RCR123 and my LT3XT is sweeter than it's ever been before! Thank you!


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## chaoss (Mar 21, 2009)

Thanks for another great review selfbuilt, and user feedback from everyone else.
I just placed an order :thumbsup:. 

This light will have stiff competition for pocket time, up against a RA Twisty and 120P.


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## WadeF (Apr 12, 2009)

Has anyone figured out how long the LF3XT will run on min low on AW R123?  Or estimated run time?


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## Flying Turtle (Apr 12, 2009)

I don't think anyone has wanted to stop using their light for the time it will take to do this test. I'm thinking it would last at least a week.

Geoff


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## Houdiny (Apr 25, 2009)

Thx selfbuilt for your great review.
My LF3XT arrived yesterday.
However, I've got a question for the other proud owners of this wonderful little light:
Has anyone else discovered that the body gets quite warm (I guess around 45°C) after a few minutes (like 4-5 min.) on high? I turned it off to let it cool down again, so I don't know if the temperatur gets any higher than that...
Perhaps I got a faulty unit?oo:


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## baterija (Apr 25, 2009)

I can't say I've noticed it but I've programmed my high to about 70% (I'd have to check to make sure and it's in the car). I'm only ever on 100% for brief periods using momentary max.

It is a small body and on 100% it should warm up. The body warming up that quickly is a good sign for the thermal path (it's carrying the heat from the LED to the body.) Warmth in your hand means it's carrying the heat to your liquid cooling system (your blood). Unless it starts to get uncomfortable in your hand or the LED start to turn an angry blue it's probably behaving normally. Backing off your high to 85-90% should be just barely perceptible in output and will produce less heat and give longer runtimes too.


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## Flying Turtle (Apr 25, 2009)

I've not tested mine on high for more than a few seconds, I'm sorry to say. Bad form for a flashaholic I suppose. No reviews have mentioned it getting too hot. I hope someone who has used theirs extensively on high will comment to set your mind at ease.

Geoff


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## Houdiny (Apr 26, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> No reviews have mentioned it getting too hot.



Yeah, I've seen that, too. That's why I'm a bit (but not too much...) concerned. My EX10 stays WAY cooler, being at least equally bright.


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## snakyjake (Jun 18, 2009)

Has there been any upgrades for the switch delay/feedback issues?
Any upgrades to the sharp edges on the switch?


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## selfbuilt (Jun 18, 2009)

snakyjake said:


> Has there been any upgrades for the switch delay/feedback issues?
> Any upgrades to the sharp edges on the switch?


I don't personally know if any changes have been made to later runs, but I know they are finalizing the 2xAA tube which should have a new tailcap (haven't seen it yet, though).

FYI, I have been EDCing my LF3XT since completion of this review, in compact user interface form. I find I prefer the way its memory feature works over the Nitecore D10/EX10 (i.e. the LF3XT doesn't erase the preset if you use quick-jumps). I have gotten quite use to the sharp edges and soft clicky - no problems carrying and using it here.


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## DHart (Jun 18, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> FYI, I have been EDCing my LF3XT since completion of this review, in compact user interface form. I find I prefer the way its memory feature works over the Nitecore D10/EX10 (i.e. the LF3XT doesn't erase the preset if you use quick-jumps). I have gotten quite use to the sharp edges and soft clicky - no problems carrying and using it here.



I totally concur with selfbuilt's comments... I prefer the ease of use of my LF3XT vs. my D10 (the D10 R2 requires considerable force to activate the piston). And the fact that the LF3XT remembers my set user output even after quick jumps to min or max is great. I softened the edges on my tailcap, but really would be just as happy without having done so. And I think the soft, silent clicky is fantastic. With the LF3XT and the new LF2XT that I have, Liteflux has demonstrated quite clearly to me that they are a very serious contender in flashlight design and manufacturing. There's nothing that quite compares to them that I'm aware of. And for those who haven't jumped on the LF2XT bandwagon yet... you've got an incredible light there to experience.

The fact that selfbuilt uses an LF3XT as his EDC says a LOT! :thumbsup:


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## rlichter (May 13, 2010)

Please excuse my unfamiliarity posting on CPF, just in case this ends up where it shouldn't. It is through CPF, specifically the extensive review by Selfbuilt, that I bought a Liteflux LF3xt a month ago. The flash is just as versatile and handy as I anticipated. But the other day I was using it standing on its tail as a night light. Wanting more light, I set it to maximum brightness and just happened to touch it two minutes later. It was fortunate I did. It was extremely hot. I turned it off, opened it, removed the battery to a safe place, and let everything cool down. Amazingly, the light still works and appears to be functioning normally. 

The CR123A I had been using when the light overheated was probably 8 years old and had been used in another light briefly. The LF3xt had reported its voltage as 2.8 but it had worked without a problem for a couple of weeks prior to the near-catastrophe when it overheated. 

The number of dangerous failures I've read about have me concerned. I am not sure what caused this failure but installing a brand new CR123A (reported at 3.2 volts) the flash light appears to work properly and not to overheat. But I'd like to know for sure the probable culprit. Can an older lithium battery fail in this fashion? Or might there be a problem with the LF3xt itself that could precipitate another episode of overheating? If the former, I will be sure to use only fresh primaries. If the latter, I will need to send the light back for inspection. Thanks in advance for your valuable advice.


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## Flying Turtle (May 13, 2010)

Welcome to CPF. And welcome to LiteFlux ownership. Not sure what to think about the overheating event. I've never noticed excessive temps with mine, but I don't think I've actually tested it either. A bit of warmth is normal, especially used tailstanding, but I wouldn't expect it to get too hot. 

Geoff


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## selfbuilt (May 13, 2010)

rlichter said:


> The number of dangerous failures I've read about have me concerned. I am not sure what caused this failure but installing a brand new CR123A (reported at 3.2 volts) the flash light appears to work properly and not to overheat. But I'd like to know for sure the probable culprit. Can an older lithium battery fail in this fashion? Or might there be a problem with the LF3xt itself that could precipitate another episode of overheating? If the former, I will be sure to use only fresh primaries. If the latter, I will need to send the light back for inspection. Thanks in advance for your valuable advice.


Hmmm, can't think of what may have been the cause here - but I'm leaning towards the old partially used battery as the culprit. The only time I've seen very hot batteries have been in multi-cell cases (with over-driven lights).

You could try posting your question in the "flashlight electronics - batteries included" forum here at CPF - the battery whizzes over there may be able to help shed some light on the issue, if it is battery related.

Oh, and :welcome:


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## egrep (Jul 17, 2011)

Edit:

Ooops

wrong thread, sorry. I blame it on Belgian Ale


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