# This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)



## Nereus (Mar 8, 2007)

*UPDATE ON 08apr2007:*

Anyone planning to make this mod, please have a look on post 46 of this thread. CPF member Jrnioa has carried out this mod and detected a possible problem with the led centering cyanoacrylate glue: Do not use too much glue and let it cure properly before assembly. - N

*UPDATE ENDS*





After modding my P1D-CE with Seoul P4 u-bin led and McR20s reflector (see this thread https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/153982 ) many CPFers asked me how I did it. Unfortunately I did not take any photos of the modding process...




So I simply decided to do exactly the same mod again, this time taking lot of photos! I numbered the pics to make the further discussions easier. Enjoy!





That's where it starts: [Pic1]






This is how you disassembly the head - you simply unscrew the converter + led unit out. The threads are glued so moderate force is needed, that's why I used pliers and bench vise. Use some soft cloth to protect the threads. I used 2AA Mag and P1D-CE holsters... awful abuse!



[Pic2]






Here you can see the converter+led unit and the flashlight head bezel + reflector side by side. Normally you would see Cree XR-E led sitting there but because I do this mod second time for the same flashlight you see Seoul there. Unsolder the wires and remove the led. [Pic3]






How to get the threaded reflector unit out? You see the two small holes on the flat back side of the reflector in the pic above? Screw small screws to them and use needle nose pliers to unscrew the reflector: [Pic4]






Here you see the head bezel, reflector unit and the lense side by side. Be careful with the lense! It has sensitive anti-reflective coating on it so do not touch the side facing the reflector. Touch only the edges and the side facing out. And remember which side was facing in, you want later to install the lense back in the same way. [Pic5]






Slide the hobby knife blade *carefully* between the converter unit aluminium body and the circuit board - do not let the blade slip in, it will ruin the sensitive components. Bend gently and the glued converter will pop out. [Pic6]






Here you can see the empty converter unit body and the glued converter. They seem to use glue in every step of the Fenix P1D-CE assembly process...



BTW, if you want to manipulate the converter this is how you get access to it. I had a quick look on the converter and was a bit surprised: I could not see any IC:s there (I might be wrong here) but there were two inductors there...



Does anyone have good contacts to Fenix, it would be great to get schematics of the converter? I have some interesting manipulations on my mind...



[Pic7]






Pull the horizontal part of the output wires up so that they become vertical – and again, carefully. You will need that extra length later… [Pic8]






Install the converter back to the converter unit body. Just push it gently to its place, it fits there snugly: [Pic9]






Next it is time to modify the reflector, the shortened one the left, intact one on the right. Shorten the reflector only from the front side and leave back side as it is. Sand the reflector back side slightly to provide cyanoacrylate glue good contact surface. I used a file and sanding paper to modify the reflector. [Pic10]






This photo shows you quite well how much the McR20s reflector needs to be shortened. The overall length of the modified reflector is ~12mm and the outer diameter is ~19mm. Remember, this is *after* all the fine tuning explained below... Do not aim directly to those dimensions because you may accidentally shorten the reflector too much. I suggest that you first leave the reflector a bit too long and remove the rest when you are fine tuning the reflector length to make the gap between flashlight body and head disappear.
[Pic11]






That is what the reflector business end looks like. Here you can see that the reflector edges need to be made narrower after shortening. [Pic12]






The McR20s reflector hole is much bigger than the Seoul P4 led dome which makes the centering of the led hard. Next I am going to reveal you my secret trick how to get nicely centered leds with Seoul P4 and McR20s



The photo below shows you the situation you want to avoid: [Pic13]






Turn the reflector upside down and put the led to its place. (You might want to shorten the led leads before this.) There is a round flat area on the back side of the reflector and it is only slightly larger than the led. Use that to your advantage to get the led centered. [Pic14]






When you feel that the led is centered properly drop a little amount of cyanoacrylate glue on the both sides of the led. Be careful - don’t move the led when you do that… and then let the glue cure properly. [Pic15]






Ta-da! Nicely centered led!



From now on the reflector + led combo will be one non-separable unit. This is the same trick I used with this mod: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/154668 [Pic16]






Next I will tell you how you get rid of the gap between the flashlight head and body - some fine tuning is needed. Drop the reflector+led unit in to the head with the lense and bend the output wires of the converter like this: [Pic17]






Next, screw the converter unit to the head . Do not install the o-rings yet. Use moderate force – you want to simulate the situation that the flashlight head is permanently assemblied. Screw also the flashlight body to its place as if you were turning the light on. You will see some kind of gap… that would be always there if you did nothing and left the situation as it is. [Pic18]






Next, shorten the reflector carefully and “fake assembly" the flashlight head again to check how big the gap is. Do this little by little so many times that you are satisfied with the gap (or the non-existence of it). But don’t get greedy, you want to be able to turn the light on!



This is how small I got it: [Pic19]






Next it is time to glue the led+reflector unit to the converter unit through the following steps:
1. Clean the led slug and the place where the led will be installed on the converter unit.
2. Apply a thin (electrically insulating) layer of arctic silver epoxy on the led slug and let it cure.
3. Drop the led + reflector unit to the flashlight head just like you did in the pic 17.
4. Apply arctic silver epoxy to the slug, a bit more this time.
5. Screw the converter unit to its place using moderate force.
6. Let the arctic silver cure.

…and when you carefully unscrew the converter you should get this kind of result – the converter, led and reflector are now one solid unit: [Pic20]






Find out which led lead is minus and which is plus and solder the wires accordingly. This is where you need the extra length of the wires: the correct wire may be on the opposite side of the led.

Install the front O-ring. Do not use any lubricant… Screw the converter+led+reflector unit to the flashlight head bezel, again using moderate force. Don't forget the lense...



Next you want to lock the unit to its place because otherwise you would accidentally disassembly the head when turning the light on/off. Do this by dropping a small amount of cyanoacrylate glue to the small gap immediately next to the head bezel edge… see the arrow in the pic below. The glue sticks to the front o-ring, that’s why you should not lube it. Cyanoacrylate glue suits greatly for the purpose because it is strong enough to prevent the head from opening accidentally but weak enough so that the head can be opened if needed. I know this because doing exactly the same mod for the same light twice is educative…



[Pic21]






You might want to upgrade the spring to a silver-plated and much stronger spring from the Sandwich Shoppe: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_42&products_id=603 [Pic22]






Install the second o-ring, add some lube and that’s it!



This is what the business end looks like: [Pic23]






A bit different angle: [Pic24]






Beamshot @ high... Nice and bright beam, no rings, no tint issues, nice transition from hotspot to sidespill...



[Pic25]






Standard 2D incan Mag vs. modded Fenix P1D-CE @ high… I guess that I don’t need to tell you which one is P1D-CE?



[Pic26]






Couple of comments about the mod: the way I centered the led requires quite a lot of effort but it produces *dead* centered leds if done carefully…



However, McR20s reflector is quite forgiving when it comes to centering of the led. Easier way to go is to glue the led to the converter unit and solder wires. Then drop the reflector to the head and see what is the result when you screw the converter+led combo to its place. Actually this is how it is usually done when modding ANY flashlight. My perfectionism just forced me to take über-complicated approach





Some words about the complexity of the mod... IMO, this mod is not hard or easy - this is "mid-level complicated" job to do (whatever it means). However, this is my extremely *subjective* opinion and it is based completely on my flashlight modding experience so far (see my sig line link). I think it is good to have some modding experience before carrying out this mod. But don't get me wrong - I don't want to discourage you. If you are a modding beginner and even after watching the pics you feel that you want to do it, just go for it.



You just need some time, patience and good nerves and there you are.

If anyone is interested, here are some measurements I made about the converter performance:

Converter output:

low: 75 mA / 2,84 V / 0,213 W
med: 314 mA / 3,12 V / 0,980 W
high: 715 mA / 3,32 V / 2,374 W

Converter input (last column is efficiency):

low: 91 mA / 2,85 V / 0,259 W / 82,2%
med: 407 mA / 2,73 V / 1,111 W / 88,2%
high: 1190 mA / 2,40 V / 2,856 W / 83,1%

And folks, please do not hesitate to ask me if you are doing this on your own and you encounter any kind of problems. Please post your possible questions here so that the info is available for all CPFers. And above all, let us CPFers know if you make a succesful mod!





-N


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## savumaki (Mar 8, 2007)

Se on hyvaa ; translated that means 'that is good', my apologies to native Finns if the spelling isn't right.

I have a P1 that is now my EDC (replacing an L1p) that continually impresses me with its output and its hard to believe that there are other tubes of pure dynamite that can so easily blow it away.

That is one fine mod.:goodjob:.

Now if I can just take my place at the head of the line to buy it .

Karlo


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## 700club (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Wow! 

Excellent work.


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## Whitelitee (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Is it possible to use this method of opening the head, to adjust the stock reflector to help elimniate the ring beam? Is the stock reflector threaded with the head?
thnx


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## Nereus (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Thanks for the feedback guys! 

Whitelitee, it may be the Cree led, not the reflector that produces the beam rings, see e.g. this thread: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/145652 . Unfortunately I have no Crees available so that I could test my theory...  And yes, the stock reflector is threaded. But you want to screw it fully in to the head bezel to make the lense o-ring water tight and to prevent the lense from rattling. But I don't know, some other way of modding the stock reflector may remove the beam rings.

-N


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## tibim (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Excellent review + pics... very inspiring. I almost want to get an l2d ce and replace just the reflector and perfect the beam 

Great job.

-tibim


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## Long John (Mar 9, 2007)

Very good instructions with nice pics :goodjob:

Best regards

_____
Tom


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## Frank_Zuccarini (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Very nice step by step instructions for us all.

Thank-you for sharing..................Frank


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## frosty (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Great pics and detailed descriptions.


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## JRNioa (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Mr Nerelus,

Wow! Thank you very much. 

This will be my first mod ever and am excited to try it...hey worse comes to worse I'm out $70 + parts!  

Quick Question...

"Install the converter back to the converter unit body: [Pic9]"

How do you install it back? Glue involved, gentle push, epoxy? As you can see I am a very very new newbie!!

Thank you!


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## Nereus (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*



JRNioa said:


> Mr Nerelus,
> 
> Wow! Thank you very much.
> 
> ...



No problem!  I pushed the converter board gently back to its place, it fits there snugly. That is a good question, I will update that part of post #1. If you are flashlight modding newbie you might want to have a look on the lines I added to the end of post #1 - there you can find my subjective opinion about how hard this mod project is.

-N


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## JRNioa (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

You mean this statement? 

"is a mid-level complicated mod to build - not easy but not incredibly hard either."

Do you think a newbie should try this?


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## TranquillityBase (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Great mod...

Excellent photos too...

It appears you've removed length from the front of the McR20 reflector, but I see sanding scratches on the led side too...Did you remove material from both sides?

Thanks,

TB


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## Nereus (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*



JRNioa said:


> You mean this statement?
> 
> "is a mid-level complicated mod to build - not easy but not incredibly hard either."
> 
> Do you think a newbie should try this?



I am afraid it is only you who can answer this question because you are the best person to evaluate your modding skills. If, after watching through the DIY guidance, you feel that you can do it, just go for it 

-N


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## Nereus (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*



TranquillityBase said:


> Great mod...
> 
> Excellent photos too...
> 
> ...


Thanks!  I sanded the back side of the reflector slightly so that the cyanoacrylate glue will get good contact surface. Good question, I will update post #1.

-N


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## JRNioa (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

"Find out which led lead is minus and which is plus and solder the wires accordingly" 

The red wire would be plus and black wire minus, correct?


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## TranquillityBase (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Thanks Nereus...

I'm looking through my parts stash for a McR18...not sure if I still have a new one or not...A McR18 might be a better route to go, it may not need any modification...not sure, still looking for one in the parts box.

Can you confirm the diameter, and overall length of your modded McR20? If I can find the McR18, I'll add the specifications here.

Thanks, 

TB

EDIT: Found one... The McR18 is 12mm O.A.L., and 18mm diameter...How close is this in size, to your modded McR20?


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## Whitelitee (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Thank you Nereus, for the feedback. I will just wait alittle bit before I start messing with it. Great info Thnx


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## GJW (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

I think the LED hole of the McR18 would need to be enlarged for the Seoul LED.


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## TranquillityBase (Mar 10, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*



GJW said:


> I think the LED hole of the McR18 would need to be enlarged for the Seoul LED.


Same size LED hole for both McR18 and McR20

EDIT: I was thinking strictly McR18 to McR20, the Lux versions, I forgot about the *McR20S* reflector.


TB


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## LuxLuthor (Mar 10, 2007)

I have to say that I'm not really into LED lights, but your mod guidelines are excellent, and I know I could do that mod to my P1D-CE if I wanted to. So, thanks for all the time it took to document that so well.

I don't even really know how much brighter the Seoul P4 is, but if I want something really bright, I grab a Maglite mod that gives me between 600-4400 L depending on which one....all in 1D-2D sizes.

I do a lot of modding on computers, so I do appreciate what you accomplished here, and how well you documented it.

Thanks! :rock:


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## Nereus (Mar 10, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*



TranquillityBase said:


> Thanks Nereus...
> 
> I'm looking through my parts stash for a McR18...not sure if I still have a new one or not...A McR18 might be a better route to go, it may not need any modification...not sure, still looking for one in the parts box.
> 
> ...



I had to disassembly the head again to get access to the reflector.... Why didn't I measure it when I first time modded the light ?!?  Anyway, the overall length of the reflector is ~12mm and the outer diameter is ~19mm. Remember, this *after* all the fine tuning done to remove the gap... Do not aim directly to those dimensions because you may accidentally shorten the reflector too much. I suggest that you first leave the reflector a bit too long and remove the rest when you are fine tuning the reflector length to make the gap disappear.

TranquillityBase, thanks for a very relevant question, I will update the post #1. 

McR18 is designed for Luxeon. The biggest optical difference between Luxeon and Seoul is the fact that Seoul die is located much lower. If you use McR18 with Seoul, you have to remove material from the back side of the reflector to get the Seoul die deeper in to the reflector to the place where the Luxeon die would be located. IIRC, it is some <1mm that you have to remove... Please check McGizmo's forum for exact info.

When starting this mod project I tried non-modified McR20 (the reflector designed for luxeon) with Seoul and got a decent beam. Not fully focused but decent and usable beam.

Jrnioa, you have it correct: red is plus and blck is minus.

And thanks for all of you for the positive feedback! 

-N


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## TranquillityBase (Mar 10, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

I'm confusing things here...sorry...I thought you were using the McR20...I forgot that there is a McR20S / Seoul specific reflector.

*These are stock unmodified McR reflectors*

*McR18_________________McR20_______________McR20S*








TB


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## JRNioa (Mar 10, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Hello, newbie here again, about to embark on this project. Question, can I use Arctic Alumina Adhesive as a sustitute for arctic silver for all of your instructions? Still apply the thin coat on the slug as stated with the alumina if I'm able to use it? thanks


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## 700club (Mar 10, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

What is the advantage of the Seoul over the Cree?


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## Nereus (Mar 11, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*



JRNioa said:


> Hello, newbie here again, about to embark on this project. Question, can I use Arctic Alumina Adhesive as a sustitute for arctic silver for all of your instructions? Still apply the thin coat on the slug as stated with the alumina if I'm able to use it? thanks


Yes you can - both are electrical insulators.

-N


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## Nereus (Mar 11, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*



700club said:


> What is the advantage of the Seoul over the Cree?


They are electrically very close to each other because both use Cree EZ1000 die. Mechanical construction and optical characteristics are bit different. It depends on your application which one is better, there is no general rule here.

For the P1D-CE mod at hand I wanted to use as big reflector as possible to get as good beam as possible. If you have look on a stock P1D-CE business end you quickly recognise that the available diameter of the flashlight head bezel is not completely used.

Cree has narrower radiation pattern angle and to produce same center beam lux it requires deeper (=longer) reflector than Seoul. And given the fact that the available space for the reflector length can not be easily increased, I decided to choose Seoul. So the space available in the head of the flashlight (both max diameter and max length) dictated my choice of reflector and hence, the choice of led.

-N


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## JRNioa (Mar 11, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

And hopefully my last question...what's the easiest way to determine which lead on the p4 led is positive and which is negative...are they marked? My Parts are due in tomorrow, thanks


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## 700club (Mar 11, 2007)

JRNioa said:


> And hopefully my last question...what's the easiest way to determine which lead on the p4 led is positive and which is negative...are they marked? My Parts are due in tomorrow, thanks


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## JRNioa (Mar 12, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Thank you!


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## Nathan (Mar 14, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Very nice work and thanks for the detailed instructions and pics.

Just got a P1D-CE, so this is tempting. But I think I'll enjoy it in it's stock form for a while. I don't want it to go to waste, in case I screw up the mod.
I'm such an optimist, I know...


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## JRNioa (Mar 14, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Nereus,

I unscrewed the refector head unit and see the current led has white material on top of the leads and all around the led...how do i remove this first and then will i need to unsolder both leads i presume? what's the best way toclean the unit also once the led is finally removed? thanks!


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## light_emitting_dude (Mar 14, 2007)

You are certainly a MOD GOD :bow::bow::bow:

Nice work


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## p97z (Mar 14, 2007)

One question… Does it void the warranty? I’m kidding… 


Nice job!


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## JRNioa (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Nereus,

Question, I have unscrewed the head unit and see that the LED has a white very solid material all around both leads and around the LED itself. What do I use to remove this material and then I presume I need to unsolder the Leads after that? Also then what is the best way to clean the surface of the LED slug and heatsink prior to applying Arctic Aluminum? Thank you!


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## Krit (Mar 16, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Very cool mod, Nereus.


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## MikeSalt (Mar 17, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Nereus, if you were working for Fenix, you would end up putting SureFire out of business! Good job Fenix cannot afford you.

Brilliant Mod, I don't think I have seen a better beam pattern.


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## greenstuffs (Mar 17, 2007)

the guts of a Fenix looks like they cost 20 cents... very nice job tho'


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## Nereus (Mar 17, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Guys, thank you for your positive feedback! 

Jrnioa, I scraped the white stuff with a hobby knife so that I had access to the CREE solder pads. Then I unsoldered the wires and used a hobby knife to remove the CREE... which was not very well glued to its place :green: I simply slided the blade under the led and bent.

Then I cleaned the aluminium button where the led sits with acetone and sanded it slightly (see e.g. pic 9). I used acetone also to clean the Seoul slug.

-N


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## Nereus (Mar 24, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

UPDATE: Anyone making this mod, please have a look on this thread. CPF member Jrnioa has carried out this mod and detected a possible problem with the led centering glue. This issue is at the moment under closer scrutiny, but I think you should be aware of it already now.

-N


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## orionlion82 (Mar 24, 2007)

Nereus said:


> UPDATE: Anyone making this mod, please have a look on this thread. CPF member Jrnioa has carried out this mod and detected a possible problem with the led centering glue. This issue is at the moment under closer scrutiny, but I think you should be aware of it already now.
> 
> -N



perhaps you should add this to the top of the original post? 

i looked at the glue fogging issue, and it looks as if a long (er) dry time is needed to make sure the fumes are gone. 

do you have a safe time suggestion to add?


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## AlexGT (Mar 24, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

I have a question, Compared to the stock P1D, Do you get more throw out of the P1D or just better beam? Or both?

Thanks!

AlexGT


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## Nereus (Mar 24, 2007)

orionlion82 said:


> perhaps you should add this to the top of the original post?
> 
> i looked at the glue fogging issue, and it looks as if a long (er) dry time is needed to make sure the fumes are gone.
> 
> do you have a safe time suggestion to add?


 
Good point, added the comment to the top of the DIY guidance. I will update the actual diy guidance when I get better understanding about what is up here. For some reason the emitter in my own mod is just fine... :thinking:

And thanks to Jrnioa for pointing this out! 

-N


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## AlexGT (Mar 24, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Nereus, can you compare the stock Cree beam with the SSC beam?


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## orionlion82 (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

ive been giving this some thought, and have a possible idea to share. 


perhaps a piece of masking tape or plastic wrap over the emitter lens while modding, and let it stand in free air overnight. 

in the morning, smell for fumes, remove covering and then complete the assembly.


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## JRNioa (Mar 29, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Nereus thought it might be of help to anyone performing this mod to share my experience with mine.

First, let me say thanks Nereus for all of your help through this process. This mod is awesome.

I am a complete newbie, did not have any flashlight mod experience at all but have been looking for a way to get rid of the black rings on my p1d ce and thought I would give this a try since Nereus had the instructions outlined in great detail.


OK, here goes....

I purchased my led from the sandwich shop...wow, nice and white and clear as well as the mr20s reflector from the same location.

I proceeded to try and open up the head of the P1d, first with two plyers instead of a vice as I did not have one. Well this created a few scratches on the head and I gave up on that quickly, went out and bought a small table clamp vice for $20.

I was able to unscrew the head using the vice but did damage the threads a bit, nothing serious, you really have to be careful here. I later fixed the scratches with Auto black touch up paint that matched perfectly.

OK, so I removed the old led, had to cut the wire leads off of the led to remove the wires....pulled the wires up so I had more and stripped the ends again.

I proceeded to use the crazy glue to mount the new LED to the reflector after sanding the reflector down. I sanded it down per Nereus's measurements and it was a perfect fit. Be careful to keep the sanding even all the way..it is easy to make the reflector "crooked or off level" while sanding.

remounted the led with arctic Alum adhesive, a slight layer on the positive slug....let dry then pushed the LED down on a little more adhesive....

here's where I strayed and got in trouble....

I decided instead of mounting the led with crazy glue to the reflector to instead carzy glue the reflector into the head unit...so I did this and put crazy glue all in the back of the reflector against the head unit...crazy glued the heck out of it...

well I positioned the LED up into the reflector perfectly.......did not let the glue dry.....over the next day my LED had a crusty thick white cloud all on the outside....ruined the LED......so bought another from mouser.com.......


Kept the whole flashlight apart, painted the super glue in the back of the reflector with auto touch up paint...let everthing dry for 3 days while I waited for me new LED......

I removed the old LED .....which was tough with a razor blade....the arctic alum was very hard to remove...takes time.... 

Put the new, again, very bright P4 6500K LED , even whiter/brighter than from the sandwich shop onto the heat sink....I found out which was positive and which side negative and placed the LED down on the heatsink that way...then position the LED in the reflector by screwing the head unit on....alinged the new led perfectly...then soldered with no need to worry about not having enough wire length...

So now I have a perfect mod for me...I can remove the heatsink, clean and inspect the LED, and easily replace the LED as it is not attached to the reflector...the heatsink just screws up into the head and is aligned nicely.

I am able to easily add another LED as the new 135 LUM P4 comes out this year.

Final Results. My P1d CE is much brighter with no rings than it was using the cree. I am over whelmingly pleased. I use AW's 3.7's and drive it to the max and it blows away my Amilite T5 (which the T5 has a very purple LED and will be replacing that this weekend with a new mouser LED too( The beam is so smooth, no rings at all..can't share screenshots as my camera is broken.

Bottom line, you will not be disapointed...this mod has got to mak this the smallest brightest LED flashight there is.


Any questions let me know!


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## JRNioa (Mar 29, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Nereus thought it might be of help to anyone performing this mod to share my experience with mine.

First, let me say thanks Nereus for all of your help through this process. This mod is awesome.

I am a complete newbie, did not have any flashlight mod experience at all but have been looking for a way to get rid of the black rings on my p1d ce and thought I would give this a try since Nereus had the instructions outlined in great detail.


OK, here goes....

I purchased my led from the sandwich shop...wow, nice and white and clear as well as the mr20s reflector from the same location.

I proceeded to try and open up the head of the P1d, first with two plyers instead of a vice as I did not have one. Well this created a few scratches on the head and I gave up on that quickly, went out and bought a small table clamp vice for $20.

I was able to unscrew the head using the vice but did damage the threads a bit, nothing serious, you really have to be careful here. I later fixed the scratches with Auto black touch up paint that matched perfectly.

OK, so I removed the old led, had to cut the wire leads off of the led to remove the wires....pulled the wires up so I had more and stripped the ends again.

I proceeded to use the crazy glue to mount the new LED to the reflector after sanding the reflector down. I sanded it down per Nereus's measurements and it was a perfect fit. Be careful to keep the sanding even all the way..it is easy to make the reflector "crooked or off level" while sanding.

remounted the led with arctic Alum adhesive, a slight layer on the positive slug....let dry then pushed the LED down on a little more adhesive....

here's where I strayed and got in trouble....

I decided instead of mounting the led with crazy glue to the reflector to instead carzy glue the reflector into the head unit...so I did this and put crazy glue all in the back of the reflector against the head unit...crazy glued the heck out of it...

well I positioned the LED up into the reflector perfectly.......did not let the glue dry.....over the next day my LED had a crusty thick white cloud all on the outside....ruined the LED......so bought another from mouser.com.......


Kept the whole flashlight apart, painted the super glue in the back of the reflector with auto touch up paint...let everthing dry for 3 days while I waited for me new LED......

I removed the old LED .....which was tough with a razor blade....the arctic alum was very hard to remove...takes time.... 

Put the new, again, very bright P4 6500K LED , even whiter/brighter than from the sandwich shop onto the heat sink....I found out which was positive and which side negative and placed the LED down on the heatsink that way...then position the LED in the reflector by screwing the head unit on....alinged the new led perfectly...then soldered with no need to worry about not having enough wire length...

So now I have a perfect mod for me...I can remove the heatsink, clean and inspect the LED, and easily replace the LED as it is not attached to the reflector...the heatsink just screws up into the head and is aligned nicely.

I am able to easily add another LED as the new 135 LUM P4 comes out this year.

Final Results. My P1d CE is much brighter with no rings than it was using the cree. I am over whelmingly pleased. I use AW's 3.7's and drive it to the max and it blows away my Amilite T5 (which the T5 has a very purple LED and will be replacing that this weekend with a new mouser LED too( The beam is so smooth, no rings at all..can't share screenshots as my camera is broken.

Bottom line, you will not be disapointed...this mod has got to mak this the smallest brightest LED flashight there is.


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## Nereus (Apr 8, 2007)

Jrnioa, thanks for detecting this potential problem, PM:ing about it with me to find out what was going on and describing your experiences here in detail!  Basically the lesson is: do not use too much cyanoacrylate glue... and let it cure properly. I am sorry that you had to find it out the hard way, Jrnioa.  But unfortunately that is the way it goes when you develop as a modder, no can do... just try to imagine how many components I have ruined during my modding "career"! 

Jrnioa, you have many good points about the P1D-CE mod so I will leave the temporary update at the beginning of the diy guidance permanently there and ask people to read your story before starting modding. 

- N


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## Edwood (Apr 9, 2007)

Absolutely fantastic tutorial with pics.

Will you be doing an LxT mod next perhaps? 


-Ed


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## hawkz (Apr 20, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

That was a pretty amazing DIY. Thanks for taking the time.


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## Nereus (Apr 21, 2007)

*Re: This is how you update Fenix P1D-CE with Seoul P4 led and McR20s reflector (w/pics)*

Thanks, guys! 

-N


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