# List of most of Surefire's Tailcap Switches - with IMAGES



## tazambo

After looking, to determine what the standard tailcap on my 9P was called, I realised that with all the Surefire tailcap switches out there, there is, post after post, looking for this information and nowhere was all this information in the same place.

I'm hoping this post will become a sticky or be listed in Unforgiven's General Flashlight Forum - Threads of Interest sticky.

As most would be aware, a lot of this information has come from posts by Size15's, Al, aka the Surefire Information Man. I'm sure he'll post to help correct any errors, so I can update this original post.

I'm looking to add pictures of most, as I find them.


TAILCAP SWITCHES:

Standard Bodies refers to - C/M/D/P/R/Z/G

Z14 - TailCap (Classic) Three parts (for Standard Bodies)
Z21 - Black twisty only with ring attach point (for Standard Bodies)
Z23 - Diaphragm Sealed - waterproof - (Classic) (for Standard Bodies)
Z31 - Tailcap group non LOTC (Raised) (for Standard Bodies)
Z40 - Black lockout (Not waterproof) (for Standard Bodies)
Z41 - Black twisty lockout - stock on 6P, 9P, Z2 etc (for Standard Bodies)
Z41 - Natural HA twisty lockout - stock on C2, C3, M1, M3 etc (for Standard Bodies)
Z48 - Natural HA clicky with rubber shroud (for Standard Bodies)
Z49 - Black clicky with rubber shroud (for Standard Bodies)
Z52 - Natural HA twisty lockout (E series)(*Discontinued*)
Z53 - Silver twisty lockout (E series)
Z53 - Gun Metal twisty lockout (E series)
Z54 - Black twisty lockout (E series)
Z57 - Natural HA clicky (E series)
Z58 - Natural HA clicky (for Standard Bodies)
Z59 - Black clicky (for Standard Bodies)
Z59 - Black HA clicky - standard on the U2
Z61 - Black HA clicky (E series)
Z62 - Natural HA two (2) stage twisty for A2,L1,L2
Z68 - Black HA clicky with metal shroud (E series)
Z72 - Black twisty lockout - stock on G2-BK
Z73 - Olive Drab twisty lockout - stock on G2-OD
Z74 - Yellow twisty lockout - stock on G2-YL
Z75 - Tan twisty lockout - stock on G2-TN
SW01 - tactical twisty (for Standard Bodies)
SW01 slim - tactical twisty (for Standard Bodies)
SW02 - tactical clicky with rubber shroud (for Standard Bodies)
UExx - tactical pressure tape switch (xx = length in inches) (E series)
UMxx - tactical pressure tape switch (xx = length in inches) (for Standard Bodies)
XMxx - tactical pressure tape switch with push button (xx = length in inches) (for Standard Bodies)

Regards
Dave


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## tazambo

*Re: List of most of Surefire's Tailcap Switches*

PHOTOS OF THE TAILCAP SWITCHES

Images sourced from all over the internet, if you believe I've used one of yours, and you're not happy. Please let me know and I'll remove it. If you own any of the switches and would like to supply me a better quality image or angle, please do so.


Z14 - TailCap (Classic) Three parts (for Standard Bodies)
No Image Yet


Z21 - Black twisty only with ring attach point (for Standard Bodies)







Z23 - Diaphragm Sealed - waterproof - (Classic) (for Standard Bodies)
No Image Yet


Z31 - Tailcap group non LOTC (Raised) (for Standard Bodies)
No Image Yet


Z40 - Black lockout (Not waterproof) (for Standard Bodies)
No Image Yet


Z41-BK - Black twisty lockout - stock on 6P, 9P, Z2 etc (for Standard Bodies)






Z41-HA - Natural HA twisty lockout - stock on M1, M3 etc (for Standard Bodies)






Z48 - Natural HA clicky with rubber shroud (for Standard Bodies)






Z49 - Black clicky with rubber shroud (for Standard Bodies)






Z52 - Natural HA twisty lockout (E series)(*Discontinued*)






Z53 - Gun Metal / Satin Grey (GM/SG) twisty lockout (E series)






Z54 - Black twisty lockout (E series)






Z57 - Natural HA clicky (E series)






Z58 - Natural HA clicky (for Standard Bodies)






Z59 - Black clicky (for Standard Bodies)






[Z59]* - Black HA clicky - standard on the U2 (*This TailCap has no Z number)









Z61 - Black HA clicky (E series)









Z62 - Natural HA two (2) stage twisty for A2,L1,L2






Z68 - Black HA clicky with metal shroud (E series) (note that the Z68 is not scalloped like the E2d TailCap also shown here)









Z72 - Black twisty lockout - stock on G2-BK






Z73 - Olive Drab twisty lockout - stock on G2-OD






Z74 - Yellow twisty lockout - stock on G2-YL






Z75 - Tan twisty lockout - stock on G2-TN






SW01 - tactical twisty (for Standard Bodies)









SW01 slim - tactical twisty (for Standard Bodies)









SW02 - tactical clicky with rubber shroud (for Standard Bodies)









UExx - tactical pressure tape switch (xx = length in inches) (E series)
No image yet


UMxx - tactical pressure tape switch (xx = length in inches) (for Standard Bodies)






XMxx - tactical pressure tape switch with push button (xx = length in inches) (for Standard Bodies)






Regards
Dave


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## leukos

Looks to be a very helpful reference. :thumbsup:


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## Size15's

Good start both of you.
Dave, I'm just itching to edit your post to make corrections...
I will with your permission, or I can post them for you to edit in yourself...


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## FlashInThePan

Thank you, thank you, thank you. Great idea.

- FITP


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## tazambo

Al,

Go ahead and knock yourself out (correct away).

As long as I still have access to add more info myself at some stage.
I thought in the 2nd post with the images, I'd like to list under the description but above the photo all the flashlights that the particular tailcap came with as standard.

I did a reasonable amount of searching and found that you answered these types of question over and over again and there were a few excellent reference posts with about half the switches listed, but never all of them.

Regards
Dave


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## labrat

Z53 - Gun Metal / Satin Grey (GM/SG) twisty lockout (E series)





I have this, a twisty, non-lockout *S*atin*G*ray, from an early E1 EXECUTIVE:







Is this an early z53? It is obviously smaller, and non-LOTC.


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## Size15's

labrat said:


> I have this, a twisty, non-lockout *S*atin*G*ray, from an early E1
> 
> Is this an early z53? It is obviously smaller, and non-LOTC.


I have one too:




It is not an early Z53. The Z53 replaced the non-LOTC TailCap. Same with the Z52 (HA) and Z54 (BK).

Not all TailCaps have Z-numbers.
The 9N and 9AN TailCaps don't.
The E2d TailCap doesn't.
Also, the U2 and K2 TailCaps don't.
etc etc


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## greenLED

*Re: List of most of Surefire's Tailcap Switches*



tazambo said:


> Z62 - Natural HA two (2) stage twisty for A2,L1,L2




I called once to inquire about a replacement tailcap for my A2-BK-WH, and they informed me they do have those available. I don't know if they'd have a different part number.

Please note I didn't really need a replacement tailcap for my A2, I just wanted to make sure that I'd be able to get a replacement in the event of mine failing at some point.


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## Size15's

If it has a Z-number (which I doubt) the Black HA version of the Z62 is likely Z62-BK although SureFire would likely refer to it by its product code number.

Al


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## Lightingguy321

Thats a really informative post guys, do you think it should be stickied?


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## tazambo

Image updated

Regards
Dave


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## Radio

:twothumbs


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## Patriot

Thank you! Good stuff! Keep it coming.


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## DM51

Very useful reference thread - many thanks.


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## ampdude

I'm pretty sure the Z54 is not hard anodized black, but rather type II. I had one an on older E2E, it was not hard anodized.
Now the Z61 on the other hand is definitely hard anodized, of course.


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## Kato

Great resource! Thanks! :twothumbs


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## BSCOTT1504

Excellent work gentlemen!! Thanks....


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## NoFair

Great work guys:twothumbs 

Agree with making this a sticky. Al


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## shinbone

Great list! I would only ask for some type of marking system which would indicate to the viewer which tailcaps are no longer produced (i.e., SW1* with a note at the base of the list stating *No longer manufactured).


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## Chronos

A matrix of interoperability/proprietary fitment would also be helpful. Though the A2 and L1 have ACME threads, their tailcaps are not interchangeable. I used to run a K2 tailcap on my L5 and got two light levels (!).


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## Size15's

ampdude said:


> I'm pretty sure the Z54 is not hard anodized black, but rather type II. I had one an on older E2E, it was not hard anodized.
> Now the Z61 on the other hand is definitely hard anodized, of course.


This is correct.


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## Size15's

Chronos said:


> Though the A2 and L1 have ACME threads, their tailcaps are not interchangeable.


Where did you read this?
The L1, L2 and A2 all use the Z62.


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## djblank87

Size15's said:


> Where did you read this?
> The L1, L2 and A2 all use the Z62.


 

I was thinking the same thing  , did something change as of the last week or so? 

:shrug:


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## ampdude

Size15's said:


> This is correct.



Maybe we can get tazambo to change this then:



tazambo said:


> Z54 - Black HA twisty lockout (E series)



to:

Z54 - Black type II finish twisty lockout

or something like that.


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## Chronos

Size15's said:


> Where did you read this?
> The L1, L2 and A2 all use the Z62.



Well, you know what, you are RIGHT. For some reason my memory this am said they aren't the same. They are. ARGH. I used to interchange them between my A2 and L1.

OK, I admit it... blonde moment, and not the first. Sheesh. 

Apologies one and all. 




Sigh.

Its been that kind of week. Chronos, out.:tinfoil::mecry:


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## DM51

Does anyone have a SW01 'slim' version? OK, obviously someone does, or there wouldn't be a pic there lol, but how rare are they?


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## Braddah_Bill

Aloha Tazambo,

With the introduction of the E1B, you now have a little updating to do. :naughty:


Thank you for a very informative post.





Bill


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## EV_007

Great job. Good to see faces to the tail ends. 

I was just thinking of different options for my SF lights and just happen upon this post. 

Most excellent. I agree, this would make a nice sticky.


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## DM51

It has been added to the 'Threads of Interest' sticky in this section.


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## SureAddicted

My Z41-BK for my 9P doesn't have the dimple in the knurling. It does have the groove on the edge of the tailcap....im guessing the Z41-BK pic you have is the old version?

Steve


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## adamlau

*Anatomy Of A Z59*

Anatomy of a Z59 (C Series) click-on, lock-out tailcap (previous revision):
.





.
Below are comparative looks at the latest Z59 assembly revision versus the previous:
.




. 
Past failures could usually be attributed to the loosening of the assembly (possible dethreading from the tailcap shell) and slippage of the plastic toothed parts.


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## milkyspit

First of all, apologies if something I'm about to say appears above... I tried to skim the thread as well as I could, but did so with a background din of three happy, crazy little boys running around trashing the house! oo: Please take pity on me if I missed something.

*[size=+1]E-Series Clickies[/size]*

I've noticed there have been several generations of these... in rough chronological order...

1. Z57 on L4, which had a tendency to get stuck in the on position. A few longtime CPFers had discovered a recipe for surgically correcting the problem. These have been off the market for quite some time, replaced with later revisions of the Z57.

2. Z57 with less tendency to stick, but still not perfect. Typically doesn't require surgery. This one has a black plastic post holding the spring on the inside.

3. Z57 with further improvement on the smoothness front. This one looks similar on the inside to #2 above, except the spring post is made from white plastic rather than black.

4. The clicky introduced with the E1B contains yet another revision of the clicky guts. The plastic spring post remains white but there is a solid metal ring around it. Seems to be the softest, smoothest, and quietest action yet.

*[size=+1]SW01 Terminology[/size]*

It's become commonplace for folks to refer to the more aggressive SW01 as the 'fatty'... not sure what the more refined one is called though... 'thinny'?

Speaking personally, I've been known to have nicknames for the versions of the SW01 related to what they remind me of... the more aggressive is the 'millstone' and the more refined is the 'bakers cap.'

:shrug:


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## tazambo

Woo Hoo, it been listed in a sticky thread...

Now, does anyone (? Size15's) know the z-number of the new E1B backup tailcap. And a better image than the one I have.

Steve, you'd be right, the Z41-BK image is different to the one off my 9P. I'd say the dimple in the knurling is an older style.

Regards
Dave


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## Size15's

tazambo said:


> Now, does anyone (? Size15's) know the z-number of the new E1B backup tailcap. And a better image than the one I have.


It has no Z-number that I'm aware of (although I've not been keeping track recently.

Since it is only used by one model I doubt it'll have one.


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## Buffalohump

Very useful info! Thanks much...

Any chance we could expand to include the interchangeable heads?


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## Tempest UK

I'd also be interested in a different thread listing the various SureFire bezels, with pictures. I'm sure plenty of people would find this to be a useful resource with the popularity of SureFire "lego" as it is. Unfortunately my knowledge of the Z-numbers for anything other than tailcaps is poor at best. 

Regards,
Tempest


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## MikeSalt

*Re: List of most of Surefire's Tailcap Switches*



tazambo said:


> Z52 - Natural HA twisty lockout (E series)(*Discontinued*)


Please do not taunt me with pictures of the venerable Z52. I am still waiting for Surefire to ship out my not so venerable replacement Z57...


tazambo said:


> Z57 - Natural HA clicky (E series)


Stupid thing! I have no idea why they changed it. My little E1e is not getting any love now that it does not work. I have written to Surefire, indicating my disgust at the Z57, and requesting the return of the Z52 :thumbsup:.

Great post :twothumbs:, really good info, especially for those wanting to indulge in a little LEGO.


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## brunt_sp

Buffalohump said:


> Very useful info! Thanks much...
> 
> Any chance we could expand to include the interchangeable heads?


+1


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## Beretta1526

OK, here's a new one for you guys. This is the same as the Z52, but BLACK. No, it's not a Z54 though. Here's a partial ordered list of sorts of the versions of black E Series hotwires:

1) E2-BK = all black Type II with finish similar to a black "Classic" Series light (ex.: 6P)
2) E2e-BK = black HAIII body and head, standard Type II Z54 tailcap - these were shipped this way, even though the tailcaps didn't fully match.
3) E2e-HA-BK = ALL black HAIII, including push/twist tailcap - somewhere between 20 and 50 of these, from what I'm told (this is one of those with no Z number)
2) E2e-BK or E2e-HA-BK = ALL black HAIII, including tailcap - Z61 tailcap

I've posted about the light here. 











.


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## Size15's

Beretta1526,
What's "HAII" ?

So you're saying it's a Z54 except the Black is type III (HA) rather than type II


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## ampdude

Size15's said:


> Beretta1526,
> What's "HAII" ?
> 
> So you're saying it's a Z54 except the Black is type III (HA) rather than type II



Size15's,
That's correct. Apparently there were so few made, Surefire never even had a model designation for the tailcap. For more info check out the Marketplace sales thread:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=165161

And thread in the Incan section:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201404


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## Beretta1526

Size15's said:


> Beretta1526,
> What's "HAII" ?
> 
> So you're saying it's a Z54 except the Black is type III (HA) rather than type II



HAII is the shiny finish on the "Classic" series lights, the Satin Gray E2e, and on a MagLite. I don't recall where my documentation is on all the different types of anodization, but there are even different classifications for HAIII-Nat and HAIII with the black tint. IIRC, the black dye/tint makes it HA Type III, Class B or something like that. I'll see if I can find the documentation.

Anyway, the tailcap is the same exact finish as the rest of the light, like the Z61 tailcaps are. The old Z54 tailcaps (shiny) are HA Type II, which is not as durable as Type III. *EDIT:* Your purple A2 is most likely HAII. HAII is much easier to use colors and/or tints, as it doesn't change the structure of the aluminum nearly as much. The E2e-CJ and C2-CJ are also HAII.

.


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## matt0

I think Size15's was referring to the term "HAII"... It's either HAIII or Type II. No such thing as HAII


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## Smile

thanks,very useful.


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## Size15's

The term "HAII" is like saying "Hard Anodised Soft".
As mentioned anodisation can be either type II or type III. It can't be both as the processes are very different.

Another name for type III is 'Hardcoat' or 'Hard Anodised' (HA).

Within the [US] Military Specification MIL-A-8625 for type III anodised finish are two 'classes' - Class 1 has no dye (ie Natural), Class 2 has dye.


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## Beretta1526

Ah, now I get what you mean. It's been so long since I've been around, I forgot a few things. 

I'll correct the post with the TC pics.

.


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## alibaba

Wow, some of you folks really know alot about SF tailcaps! I got to this thread while looking for a twisty tailcap for my E1B but it looks like I'm about out of luck right? Here's hoping Size15's proves me wrong (seems like he's good at that ). Does anyone out there have a twisty tailcap of any color that they can part with that will work on the E1B? Please PM me if you do and we can work something out.


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## RyanA

Anyone know if there were 2 versions of the scalloped tailcap on the e2d? There are 2 pictures on the e2d section of the SF sight. One cap looks completely flat while the other has a sort of gradient slope to it.


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## Size15's

RyanA said:


> Anyone know if there were 2 versions of the scalloped tailcap on the e2d? There are 2 pictures on the e2d section of the SF sight. One cap looks completely flat while the other has a sort of gradient slope to it.


The one you are referring to was a proto-type. I'm not aware of any having escaped SureFire.


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## RyanA

Thanks Size 15's. That one looks really nice. Probably not so healthy for the hands though. I guess it has to be relegated to wallpaper status.:sigh:


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## werdnawee

Great info!!! :thumbsup:

Is the Z68 an official Surefire product?

Reason is, I want to purchase it for my E1B but I can't find it on Surefire's website.

Batteryjunction also doesn't sell it. Only place I can find it is Brightguy.

An ebay seller who sells only Surefires hasn't heard of it before.

What other options are there of a grippier E1B?

Thanks


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## Size15's

SureFire have so many products not every dealer, nor SureFire's public face website can showcase them all.
Any Dealer should be able to order one for you - you'll need to contact the Dealer specifically requesting it.

Al


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## etc

I want to replace the stock 9P tailcap (Twistie lock-out) with a clickie that can stand on the tail...

There are many clickies listed but none appear to be tail-standable...


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## matt0

The Z49 is a clicky that will fit on your 9P. It has a rubber shroud around the button and will allow the light to tailstand.


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## Tempest UK

etc said:


> There are many clickies listed but none appear to be tail-standable...



That does seem to be the case...

Some people have mentioned that the rubber shroud on the Z48, Z49 and SW02 is firm enough to allow tailstanding, and they all fit the 9P. I'm not sure I'd want to rely on it though, especially with a long(ish) light like the 9P.

There are a couple of E-series tailcaps that can tailstand.

Regards,
Tempest


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## RobertM

What is the Zxx number for the G3 tailcap? Maybe I'm going crazy, but I thought the G2 and G3 lock-out tailcaps are _slightly_ different.

Also, is there a definitive number for the E2D scalloped tailcap (as compared to the non-scalloped one from the scoutlight?

Thanks,
Robert


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## Size15's

RobertM said:


> What is the Zxx number for the G3 tailcap? Maybe I'm going crazy, but I thought the G2 and G3 lock-out tailcaps are _slightly_ different.


The G3/G3L uses the same LockOut TailCap as the G2Z/G2ZL. It's a different style to the G2/G2L LOTC. It doesn't have a Z-number.



RobertM said:


> Also, is there a definitive number for the E2D scalloped tailcap (as compared to the non-scalloped one from the scoutlight?


No - the E2DL/E2D crenelated TailCap does not have a Z-number, unlike the shrouded clickie TailCap used by the ScoutLight which is the Z68.
(btw, in SureFire terminology scallops are gentle whereas crenelations are aggressive)


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## RobertM

Size15's said:


> The G3/G3L uses the same LockOut TailCap as the G2Z/G2ZL. It's a different style to the G2/G2L LOTC. It doesn't have a Z-number.
> 
> 
> No - the E2DL/E2D crenelated TailCap does not have a Z-number, unlike the shrouded clickie TailCap used by the ScoutLight which is the Z68.
> (btw, in SureFire terminology scallops are gentle whereas crenelations are aggressive)



Cool, thanks for the info Size15's :twothumbs
Out of curiosity (I apologize if this is getting too off topic), will SureFire generally sell non z-numbered tailcaps if you call them (such as the G3/G2Z or the E2D/L tailcap) or is CPFMP one's best bet?


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## etc

Tempest UK said:


> That does seem to be the case...
> 
> Some people have mentioned that the rubber shroud on the Z48, Z49 and SW02 is firm enough to allow tailstanding, and they all fit the 9P. I'm not sure I'd want to rely on it though, especially with a long(ish) light like the 9P.
> 
> There are a couple of E-series tailcaps that can tailstand.
> 
> Regards,
> Tempest



I want something (1) clickie (2) ability to tail-stand with metal instead of rubber shroud... One would think that it's a pretty basic setup.


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## Size15's

RobertM said:


> Cool, thanks for the info Size15's :twothumbs
> Out of curiosity (I apologize if this is getting too off topic), will SureFire generally sell non z-numbered tailcaps if you call them (such as the G3/G2Z or the E2D/L tailcap) or is CPFMP one's best bet?


One can but ask them...


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## Tempest UK

etc said:


> I want something (1) clickie (2) ability to tail-stand with metal instead of rubber shroud... One would think that it's a pretty basic setup.



Well I'm afraid I can't help you then. It just doesn't exist. Not for the 9P, at least.

Regards,
Tempest


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## etc

Actually, it's not that I need the tail-stand capability, but I am afraid of it cutting on accidently in the pocket -- I EDC tailcap down.
So it needs some kind of shroud protection, a la Fenix L2D.


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## Size15's

Fear not! SureFire have patented a LockOut feature that can be used to prevent accidental activation.


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## etc

Yeah, I am aware that I can twist the tailcap and lock it out but it's not "tactical" and is inferior to a protected clickie.


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## etc

It appears that what I want is this but not sure it will work with 9P as it C-series. *

Z68 - Black HA clicky with metal shroud (E series) (note that the Z68 is not scalloped like the E2d TailCap also shown here)
*

otherwise this one. I EDC tailcap down, will the rubber shroud prevent it from turning on?

* Z49 - Black clicky with rubber shroud (for Standard Bodies) *


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## Tempest UK

I doubt you would actually have a problem with _any _click on/off type tailcap. They take a fair amount of pressure to activate, and I've never had a problem with one turning on accidentally in a pocket, even when carried bezel up.

I can only imagine the rubber shroud of the Z49 would help prevent such activation, though.

Regards,
Tempest


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## Sgt. LED

It won't turn on in your pocket bezel up with that rubber shrouded switch.

It just won't do it, trust me I have a few of em'. Why do I have them? The very same reason you have, I don't want to do lockout unless the light is in a bag or storage and I hate the thought of it coming on in my pocket.
:thumbsup:


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## Size15's

"tactical"...
One could argue that a recessed pressure switch is not "tactical" because it limits the grips and activation techniques that can be used.

However, I accept that what works for each individual is what matters for that individual. When it comes to using a flashlight in a stressful, fast-paced "tactical" situation I would expect that simulating anticipated scenarios and exploring how best to respond and resolve them will help determine which techniques, and therefore which tools are most useful.


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## etc

Tempest UK said:


> I doubt you would actually have a problem with _any _click on/off type tailcap. They take a fair amount of pressure to activate, and I've never had a problem with one turning on accidentally in a pocket, even when carried bezel up.



I had plenty of such cases, with non-SF lites obviously. 

StreamLight Jr. Lux, my first EDC with a pretty hard switch, even Fenix L2D with a recessed switch somehow got turned on once. 
When it bounces around with other stuff in your pocket such as keys, a memory stick, wallet, whatnot. I only notice when feel something heating up in your pocket.


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## etc

Sgt. LED said:


> It won't turn on in your pocket bezel up with that rubber shrouded switch.
> 
> It just won't do it, trust me I have a few of em'. Why do I have them? The very same reason you have, I don't want to do lockout unless the light is in a bag or storage and I hate the thought of it coming on in my pocket.
> :thumbsup:



That's very good news. 
Then where do I get such a beast? Aside from CPFMarketplace.


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## Tempest UK

etc said:


> Then where do I get such a beast? Aside from CPFMarketplace.



The Z49 is a readily available part, so you can either order from www.surefire.com or through a local/online dealer. Most places I have looked seem to carry it.

Regards,
Tempest


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## Sgt. LED

All mine came from the marketplace since I have to save money where I can! But that takes plenty of time and patience.


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## gswitter

Before placing an order, I'd recommend searching for some pictures of the Z49 on 6P/9P bodies, just so you know what you're getting. I find the size of the Z49 a little awkward. It's noticeably wider than the Z41 (on your 9P) and the rubber shroud adds considerable length. Functionally, the Z49 I have works fine. Maybe it's exactly what you're looking for. But personally, I find the extra size somewhat uncomfortable to use, and generally opt for a Z59 (6PD clicky) or aftermarket clicky.

Here's one of Size15's posts with a good picture. Notice the size of the Z48 (HA natural version of the Z49) on the G2 at the bottom compared to the Z58 and Z59 on the two lights above it.


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## Sgt. LED

That's one of the reasons I love em', BEEFY!


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## matt0

I've heard the E-series switches (Z57, Z61) have been updated with a better design and the C/P-series switches (Z58, Z59) have been updated as well. What about the Z48 and Z49? Have they been updated as well? I'd like to buy one but if there's been an update, I may wait a while so some of the old stock can clear out before purchasing...


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## Sgt. LED

I think they are golden now, no more issues to report with them.


----------



## etc

gswitter said:


> Before placing an order, I'd recommend searching for some pictures of the Z49 on 6P/9P bodies, just so you know what you're getting. I find the size of the Z49 a little awkward. It's noticeably wider than the Z41 (on your 9P) and the rubber shroud adds considerable length. Functionally, the Z49 I have works fine. Maybe it's exactly what you're looking for. But personally, I find the extra size somewhat uncomfortable to use, and generally opt for a Z59 (6PD clicky) or aftermarket clicky.
> 
> Here's one of Size15's posts with a good picture. Notice the size of the Z48 (HA natural version of the Z49) on the G2 at the bottom compared to the Z58 and Z59 on the two lights above it.



You are right. Z49 does look kind of weird. Z59 is a better product. However, I EDC bezel up, tailcap down so that I fear that the tail cap will get turned on in this position -- has happened to me more than once with other lites.


----------



## matt0

etc, you could always try and find a Leef tailcap. I have one (pictured below) that has a scalloped metal tailguard around the end which protects the button. I believe there were also some Leef tailcaps without the scallops. Instead it was one solid tailguard around the end. Although, the McClicky switch inside of it is easier to press than the Z59 that I have.


----------



## etc

Looks interesting -


----------



## Sgt. LED

I have one of those too. A good switch but the momentary comes on too easy in your pocket (for me anyway). I use it but if it's in my pocket I feel the compulsion to lock it out.


----------



## Jumpmaster

Sorry to bring this to the top again, but I saw a pic of a G2 the other day that had what appeared to be a larger, flared tailcap (made of the same material the G2 is)...anyone familiar with that one? Where would I get one?

Thanks!

JM-99


----------



## Size15's

Jumpmaster said:


> Sorry to bring this to the top again, but I saw a pic of a G2 the other day that had what appeared to be a larger, flared tailcap (made of the same material the G2 is)...anyone familiar with that one? Where would I get one?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> JM-99


Care to share a link to the photo?
If the TailCap you've seen isn't already photographed in this thread it may well be an aftermarket product (and this thread won't be the best place to discuss it if that is the case)


----------



## Jumpmaster

Size15's said:


> Care to share a link to the photo?
> If the TailCap you've seen isn't already photographed in this thread it may well be an aftermarket product (and this thread won't be the best place to discuss it if that is the case)



Problem is I can't find the picture anymore. It looked like it matched the G2 in styling enough that it made me think it was a SF product.

JM-99


----------



## Size15's

Could it be that there is a difference between the G2Z/G3 TailCaps and the G2/G2L TailCaps in terms of detailing?


----------



## matt0

Size15's said:


> Could it be that there is a difference between the G2Z/G3 TailCaps and the G2/G2L TailCaps in terms of detailing?



What exactly is the difference between the two? The grooves on the outside of the G2Z/G3 tailcaps are longer than on the G2/G2L tailcaps but are there any differences internally? It seems like the G2Z/G3 style would be easier to twist since the longer grooves might provide better grip.


----------



## Jumpmaster

I really wish I could find that pic where I saw that. I should have bookmarked it. Doh!

I looked up the G2, G2Z, and G3 tailcaps and it wasn't like those. This was flared out toward the back of the tailcap.

I'll keep looking for the pic...

Edit: Found it! Post #82, top picture here:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=177673&page=3


----------



## DM51

Those are RPM's Custom tailcaps, as here - not SF.


----------



## Jumpmaster

Oh, ok...my apologies for cluttering this up with a non-SF item. Sure had me fooled...they look very Surefire-esque...

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

JM-99


----------



## Solscud007

matt0 said:


> What exactly is the difference between the two? The grooves on the outside of the G2Z/G3 tailcaps are longer than on the G2/G2L tailcaps but are there any differences internally? It seems like the G2Z/G3 style would be easier to twist since the longer might grooves provide better grip.




I have both the G2Z and the G2L. The one thing I notice is that the G2Z has a positive notch on the side of the tailcap. to line up with the negative cavity notch on the body


----------



## milkyspit

Sgt. LED said:


> I have one of those too. A good switch but the momentary comes on too easy in your pocket (for me anyway). I use it but if it's in my pocket I feel the compulsion to lock it out.




You're talking about the LeefClicky, right? If so, there was a fully guarded version of the tailswitch as well... maybe that one would be less likely to activate in your pocket. The nice thing about Leef's fully guarded tail is, the opening for rubber boot has enough extra space to fit a thumb in there easily... it's pretty forgiving.

Anyway, just wanted to mention.


----------



## etc

More shots of Z49...

Surefire Z49 tailcap on Leef 2x18500 body. 







Surefire Z49 tailcap on Leef 2x18650 body. (Left-most item).
Surefire Z41 tailcap on Leef 2x18500 body (center)






Z49 is reliable but an absurd design really, no idea why they made its diameter bigger than the 1" body diameter, or why they used rubber vs metal. It looks bigger than the bezel itself. I can EDC 9P with the Z41 but not with Z49, it marginally bigger but bigger enough to make it awkward. I don't use a holster for EDC. But with a holster, I don't think it should be an issue.

There have been reports that Leef lacks threads vs. stock 9P body, causing the Z41 (and perhaps other TCs) not to have constant-on, just instant-on, but in my experience, both Z49 and the stock Z41 work well both ways with Leef bodies, although more thread could be added to Leef bodies.


----------



## Size15's

etc said:


> Reliable but an absurd design really, no idea why they made its diameter bigger than the 1" body diameter, or why they used rubber vs metal. It looks bigger than the bezel itself.


It was not designed for flashlights.
The SW01 and SW02 were designed for the Millennium Universal WeaponLights. They were over-sized to provide grip - especially to gloved hands, including in the cold and/or wet, and when the Operators were in very stressful situations.
The SW02's rubber shroud was designed to help the Operator prevent unintentional activation, and ensure that latching the light constant-on was a deliberate action. The shroud isn't metal or plastic because there was no need to protect the switch so severely. Indeed there was demand to be able to remove the shroud (always a pain to put it back on again in my experience)

The introduction of a Click switch was a significant departure from SureFire's Tactical Switch - that is 'momentary' on pressure switches that deactivate when the light (and any weapon it is attached to) is dropped, or when the Operator removes pressure.
The constant-on mode of SureFire always requires a deliberate act - not something to be done lightly.

The Z48/Z49 were SureFire's temporary answer to those users wanting a Clickie type switch on a flashlight. SureFire re-styled the SW02 to make it more in-keeping with flashlights.

Shortly after (in SureFire terms) they introduced the Z58/Z59 and obviously have been convinced that clickie switches are what the majority of customers in the larger market sectors now being targeted are wanting.


----------



## DM51

What is the maximum current a Z48/Z49 can take?


----------



## etc

Hm, interesting bit of history.

IMO, Surefire needs to design a better clickie. Like the tailcap Fenix L2D uses - same diameter as the body, with a metal shround around it to prevent accidental turn on.


----------



## spearflap

got a new e2e from america ive had it now for 2 weeks and have developed tailcap problems can i send it somwhere to be fixed or do i just buy a new tailcap, the only thing is i cant find a matching one my e2e is
kinda grey gunmetal ha colour,help needed please..


----------



## Size15's

Of course you can call SureFire and arrange to send it to them to be checked out.
You can also attempt to source a Z53 replacement LockOut TailCap for your E2e-SG.


----------



## Solscud007

Is it me or is the list of SF tailcaps missing the tailcaps for the Kroma, U2 and M6? As well as the 6BL?


----------



## Zim

What a interesting thread. I have always liked the looks of the SW01/02 tail caps and i finally understand the reason behind the design. 

Its neat to see the abundance of knowledge in this forum.


----------



## etc

Question about Z41 tailcap.

Anyway, I like the Z41 tailcap but the weird thing is, it has different degrees of pressure that I need to apply to turn it on depending on the body that I use it on. I have several bodies that I tried:

* Surefire 9P body.
* Leef 2x18500 body
* FiveMega 2x18500 body

The strange thing is the easiest one to activate (meaning push for instant-on) is the FiveMega body. The second easiest is Surefire 9P and the hardest is Leef. FiveMega takes little pressure to active and to hold, while with Leef it takes more pressure and more pressure to hold activated in instant-on mode.

And it's the same Z41 unit on both. Why is that?

I like Leef's knurling pattern better and it's a quality made item but I find FiveMega more enjoyable to use and it doesn't "blink" as it does with Leef when I find the pressure too much and accidently release it. This doesn't happen with FiveMega.

Now to make things more interesting, Z49 takes very little pressure to activate on Leef. 

Can I install a different spring in the tailcap to lessen the pressure needed for instant-on? Or is it something else?


----------



## werdnawee

Not sure whether this is the right place to post but....

For those that have an E1B and wanted to get a Z68 tailcap for more grip, Surefire now sells them online (which they didn't have before)

Anyway, I now have 2 or someone on this forum but if you have had trouble finding them, here they are - 

http://www.surefire.com/Tailcap-Switch-for-Scout-Light-E-Series-Flashlights


----------



## ampdude

werdnawee said:


> Not sure whether this is the right place to post but....
> 
> For those that have an E1B and wanted to get a Z68 tailcap for more grip, Surefire now sells them online (which they didn't have before)
> 
> Anyway, I now have 2 or someone on this forum but if you have had trouble finding them, here they are -
> 
> http://www.surefire.com/Tailcap-Switch-for-Scout-Light-E-Series-Flashlights



Hey, that's great news!! Thanks


----------



## Bruce B

werdnawee said:


> Not sure whether this is the right place to post but....
> 
> For those that have an E1B and wanted to get a Z68 tailcap for more grip, Surefire now sells them online (which they didn't have before)
> 
> Anyway, I now have 2 or someone on this forum but if you have had trouble finding them, here they are -
> 
> http://www.surefire.com/Tailcap-Switch-for-Scout-Light-E-Series-Flashlights



I'd get one for a tail standing option. I've seen it on an E1B before and it looks good!


----------



## milkyspit

werdnawee said:


> Not sure whether this is the right place to post but....
> 
> For those that have an E1B and wanted to get a Z68 tailcap for more grip, Surefire now sells them online (which they didn't have before)
> 
> Anyway, I now have 2 or someone on this forum but if you have had trouble finding them, here they are -
> 
> http://www.surefire.com/Tailcap-Switch-for-Scout-Light-E-Series-Flashlights




That's good information... many thanks! :bow:

I have one of these scavenged from a Scout Light, and like it quite a bit. I've been hesitant to use it for fear of loss or damage, though... now I feel more comfortable about using it without worry! Don't have to buy a new complete light just for the replacement switch. 

It's basically the same tailswitch as on the E2DL except this one doesn't have the scallops cut into the flared section. The button is still quite easy to actuate, though, by virtue of the flared-out guard.

All in all, nice!


----------



## DM51

For reference: DaFABRICATA has started a useful thread showing SW01 variations.


----------



## tazambo

I just received this image from another member.
He is querying that it is a Z14
Can Size 15's confirm or deny and I'll add to to post #2 if it is.

Regards
Dave


----------



## Size15's

tazambo said:


> I just received this image from another member.
> He is querying that it is a Z14
> Can Size 15's confirm or deny and I'll add to to post #2 if it is.
> 
> Regards
> Dave


I'm not sure it's going to be possible to definitively state the difference between the Z14, the Z23, and the Z31.
My gut feeling is that the Z14 shouldn't have the pronounced raised and knurled rubber switch boot we're come to expect because SureFire supplied these as upgrades.


----------



## DHart

werdnawee said:


> Not sure whether this is the right place to post but....
> 
> For those that have an E1B and wanted to get a Z68 tailcap for more grip, Surefire now sells them online (which they didn't have before)
> 
> Anyway, I now have 2 or someone on this forum but if you have had trouble finding them, here they are -
> 
> http://www.surefire.com/Tailcap-Switch-for-Scout-Light-E-Series-Flashlights



I just ordered a Z68 from BrightGuy... they are expecting them in in about a week! I am curious to know, will this switch work well with single-stage E-series lights (like an older E2 incandescent) as well as the latest two stage lights, like the E1L and E2L? Will it operate the hi/lo mechanism in the two stage lights?

Otherwise... I read somewhere that Surefire click switches were problematic.... is that the case? Are the new clickie switches considered highly reliable or is one better off, from a reliability standpoint, with the old-style (Z41) press-for-momentary/twist-for-on?


----------



## DaFABRICATA

DHart said:


> I just ordered a Z68 from BrightGuy... they are expecting them in in about a week! I am curious to know, will this switch work well with single-stage E-series lights (like an older E2 incandescent) as well as the latest two stage lights, like the E1L and E2L? Will it operate the hi/lo mechanism in the two stage lights?
> 
> Otherwise... I read somewhere that Surefire click switches were problematic.... is that the case? Are the new clickie switches considered highly reliable or is one better off, from a reliability standpoint, with the old-style (Z41) press-for-momentary/twist-for-on?


 

The Z68 only operates the light to turn on or off.
The 2-stage setting is in the driver of the e1b.
It uses the same switch internals as the Z57, Z61, Z68, and any other clicky E-series. 
They have upgraded the internals in the newer switches to a more reliable design.

The Z41 is for the C/P/D/M series of lights is the most reliable of them all.
There is nothing to break. The most you will have to do is clean the threads every once in a while.

There is a Twisty for the E-series. 
They are kinda rare, but I've never heard on one failing.
These can have the internals removed and a more reliable McGizmo McClicky installed for better reliability....thus turning your "Twisty" into a "Clicky"
Hope that helps..


----------



## DHart

DaFABRICATA... thank you for the info! The Z41 in my older Z2 and Z59 in my older E2 have been stone reliable for many years.

I do have another question about the Z68... I understand that the dual output controller in the E1L and E2L is in the head rather than the tail, so will the E1L's dual output ability function with a Z68 tail, or any other E-series tail, just as it would with the stock clicky? Probably a dumb question.... but I'm trying to "get smarter" 

Thanks for all of your help!


----------



## DaFABRICATA

The only dumb question is the one not asked:thumbsup:

Yes it will work fine. 
All it is doing is breaking the contact to turn apply power or not.


BTW...Z59 is the clicky for the C/P/M/D series.
Z57 is the E-series clicky....just to clear it up for ya







DHart said:


> DaFABRICATA... thank you for the info! The Z41 in my older Z2 and Z59 in my older E2 have been stone reliable for many years.
> 
> I do have another question about the Z68... I understand that the dual output controller in the E1L and E2L is in the head rather than the tail, so will the E1L's dual output ability function with a Z68 tail, or any other E-series tail, just as it would with the stock clicky? Probably a dumb question.... but I'm trying to "get smarter"
> 
> Thanks for all of your help!


----------



## DHart

.... I meant the Z54 tailcap on my old E2... not Z59.

Thanks again.


----------



## DaFABRICATA

Not production TCs...but too cool not to show..
Prototype Tailcaps with different ON-OFF labelings:thumbsup:


----------



## brighterisbetter

DaFABRICATA said:


> There is a Twisty for the E-series.
> These can have the internals removed and a more reliable McGizmo McClicky installed for better reliability....thus turning your "Twisty" into a "Clicky"


Along the same lines, can the switch from a Z61 be replaced with a McClicky?


----------



## DaFABRICATA

I'm pretty sure its possible, but you need a washer as a spacer if I recall correctly.

Never done one myself, but I might have to try on one of my "bad" clickies.

Maybe check the McGizmo section

Sorry I'm not more help with this one.


----------



## brighterisbetter

A bit OT, but what is it with CPF'ers being late-nighters?  Seems like we're always burning the midnight oil. :candle: I make a post, thinking that I'm the weirdo for staying up late on CPF and not expecting to get a response till the next morning, then low and behold it happens. I love this place.


----------



## DaFABRICATA

brighterisbetter said:


> A bit OT, but what is it with CPF'ers being late-nighters?  Seems like we're always burning the midnight oil. :candle: I make a post, thinking that I'm the weirdo for staying up late on CPF and not expecting to get a response till the next morning, then low and behold it happens. I love this place.


 



*ITS DARK AND WE LIKE FLASHLIGHTS!!!!*

They go hand in hand....


----------



## DHart

The button on my Z41 sticks slightly on each first press, but not thereafter until the next first use. Seems like I need to get in there and do a little r'n'r. I pulled the coil out, but the allen head connector is tight... before I start wrenching on it I thought I'd ask for some dis-assembly, maintenance tips, and re-assembly advice... can anyone help with that? Thank you!


----------



## fritzcat

Nice list -- handy for reference!


----------



## ElectronGuru

etc said:


> Question about Z41 tailcap.
> 
> Anyway, I like the Z41 tailcap but the weird thing is, it has different degrees of pressure that I need to apply to turn it on depending on the body that I use it on. I have several bodies that I tried:
> 
> * Surefire 9P body.
> * Leef 2x18500 body
> * FiveMega 2x18500 body
> 
> The strange thing is the easiest one to activate (meaning push for instant-on) is the FiveMega body. The second easiest is Surefire 9P and the hardest is Leef. FiveMega takes little pressure to active and to hold, while with Leef it takes more pressure and more pressure to hold activated in instant-on mode.
> 
> And it's the same Z41 unit on both. Why is that?




Based on my experience here, and without seeing them in person, I'd guess you are dealing with a specification difference. The resistance from the switch is in part, the result of pressure exerted by the batteries against the tailcap spring. The farther away the lamp module (either from being not fully seated or simply a longer tube), the less pressure against the spring. Less pressure there = less pressure required to activate the switch.


----------



## ElectronGuru

Here's a view, comparing several Z41's, Z48/49's, and the Z59 in the same image


----------



## Solscud007

Here are some more pics. Since I got my C2 Emerson in HA-BK I took some pics compared to a normal Z41-BK vs Z41- HA-BK

Also I took a pic of my variant colors.


----------



## ElectronGuru

Red?.


----------



## DimeRazorback

6P Patriot


----------



## ElectronGuru

Yup, been that kinda day!


----------



## ctcfirearms

Excuse my ignorance, but does anyone know the model # for this tailcap? It's early 1990's production.


----------



## Size15's

Looks like a Z14. Really old-school smooth rubber switch boot before they switched (sic) to the raised, knurled version (Z31).

That far back in Laser Products/SureFire past is difficult to be definitive - especially when it comes to TailCaps in my experience... 

Al


----------



## ctcfirearms

Thanks for the speedy reply Size15! 

:thumbsup:


----------



## Lolaralph

Does anyone know if a Z59 tailcaps finish will match an early 6P, one with a lexan lens


----------



## Kestrel

Solscud007 said:


>


I just *had* to quote the above pic for it's coolness factor. 

Here's a photo of the interior of my Z41 tailcap from my recently-received C2. I think that the old hex nut variant is really neat. 










Would anyone happen to know if there is a new designation/addition regarding the Z62 tailcap (L1/L2/A2)? The different styling (i.e the machined cutouts instead of knurling) of the LX2/A2L tailcap would almost require two different SKU's for SureFire - if a customer requires a replacement for one of the multitude of L1/L2/A2 tailcaps out there, my guess is that many would be dissatisfied with the dramatic styling difference for their older lights. If SF can warranty both the new-style and the old-style tailcap, it would make sense IMO to have stock categories for both styles. :thinking:

Just some idle thoughts this morning...


----------



## Mike Kerr

Sigh

So much information - so little time. This is another example of a "got to read that" thread. There are so many floating around - I hate to do a search when there is already so much posted that I have not yet read. Otherwise I would post as much as I lurk.

Regards,


----------



## jimmy1970

Crappy Iphone photo but here is a Z14 from the late 90's.


----------



## Swagg

Size15's said:


> It was not designed for flashlights.
> The SW01 and SW02 were designed for the Millennium Universal WeaponLights. They were over-sized to provide grip - especially to gloved hands, including in the cold and/or wet, and when the Operators were in very stressful situations.



Are the aggressive SW01's still in production? If so how do you buy them?


----------



## red02

Can a Z57 take a mcclicky? Can it be used with G-series lights?


----------



## erehwyrevekool

@ *Kestrel*, please can you tell me if in your C2 old hex nut variant, the hex size is 3/32 inches? I'm going to change the rubber boot of my SF 6P tailcap and I want to reassemble it with the hex nut instead of pin.


----------



## Xacto

erehwyrevekool said:


> [...]want to reassemble it with the hex nut instead of pin.


 

Can this be done easily? With all the Lego/exchangability of Surefire, the change from nut to pin on the Z41 is the only thing that bothers me a little.

Cheers
Thorsten


----------



## angelofwar

Is there any model designation change between the older G2 Tailcaps that "fell apart" and the newer one's where the button/spring are secured inside it???


----------



## Kestrel

erehwyrevekool said:


> @ Kestrel, please can you tell me if in your C2 old hex nut variant, the hex size is 3/32 inches? I'm going to change the rubber boot of my SF 6P tailcap and I want to reassemble it with the hex nut instead of pin.


Yes, just checked it and it is 3/32". I don't know about substitution of a hex bolt instead of the pin, the pin retains itself via a helical feature whereas the hex nut uses threads. Are you planning on using a tap to create threads in the plastic tailcap component? I'm not even sure that the ID for the hole in the plastic tailcap part will provide enough material to permit thread engagement of a 3/32" hex bolt. <shrug>

Edit: I found a pic from this post/thread by ElectonGuru:


----------



## erehwyrevekool

@ *Kestrel* & *Xacto*
I aven't use any tap to create threads in the plastic tailcap component. I've screwed directly the 3/32" hex bolt into the hole of the plastic tailcap part. The work as been quite easy, you have only to press the rubber tailcap by sides to prevent the turning of the plastic part while you are screwing the bolt inside!


----------



## ampdude

jimmy1970 said:


> Crappy Iphone photo but here is a Z14 from the late 90's.



Yea, that is my favorite style. I came across one again awhile back should have kept it, but I'm not as much into the black parts.

Some of those are not three piece though I've noticed, especially the later ones like that, I think I would refer to it as a Z41 instead.

Is that particular one of yours three piece? Most I've seen with the knurled rubber cap and LP logo are not.


----------



## Roood

Hi guys,

Can someone please tell me what is the difference between the two Z59 Tailcaps? And which one is newer or the latest version or generation?















Which is one is better?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,
Rod


----------



## ampdude

The one with the metal ring is the newer improved design. The older revisions of Z58/Z59/Z57/Z61 clicky switches are all crap IMO and are prone to failure. The last two revisions of the Z57 are both good switches, the latest being the one with the metal ring.


----------



## ebow86

I have noticed that there may be 2 variants to the z48 tailcap. Towards the botton on the tailcap is that ring of vertical lines of knurling, and I have noticed in various photographs that vertical ring of knurling is black, where most other times it is the same color as the rest of the tailcap, HA. Anyone else ever notice this?


----------



## Size15's

ebow86 said:


> I have noticed that there may be 2 variants to the z48 tailcap. Towards the botton on the tailcap is that ring of vertical lines of knurling, and I have noticed in various photographs that vertical ring of knurling is black, where most other times it is the same color as the rest of the tailcap, HA. Anyone else ever notice this?


Can you share some links to the photos please?


----------



## ebow86

Size15's said:


> Can you share some links to the photos please?



Sure Al, here's the z48 HA with the black I'm talking about http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...h-new-unused&p=2641372&viewfull=1#post2641372

And the other variant's picture is here in this thread, by far the most common one, http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-with-IMAGES&p=3007269&viewfull=1#post3007269


----------



## Roood

Metal rings? You mean these (excluding the one in the middle)?









Of these 3, I know the one on the left and the one far right are from a G2L Fire Rescue Models. I have those exact switches. The one in the middle with the metal plate is from a U2 Ultra. I thought the one in the middle is better because it came from a high-end model. Please clarify?  TIA


----------



## ElectronGuru

ebow86 said:


> I have noticed that there may be 2 variants to the z48 tailcap. Towards the botton on the tailcap is that ring of vertical lines of knurling, and I have noticed in various photographs that vertical ring of knurling is black, where most other times it is the same color as the rest of the tailcap, HA. Anyone else ever notice this?


 
Thats not black but dark gray. The section is a separate piece of metal. Both are natural HA and some batches of some parts are darker than others.


----------



## ebow86

ElectronGuru said:


> Thats not black but dark gray. The section is a separate piece of metal. Both are natural HA and some batches of some parts are darker than others.




Good to know. I kind of like the one's with the darker ring myself. I know surefire's anodizing can get quite dark, but man, that sure does look like black http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/842/dsc03454c.jpg/ Probably just the lighting.


----------



## tobrien

such an awesome thread, thanks!


----------



## tobrien

so the Z41-HA is what I want as a stock switch for the C2 HA body right?


----------



## Size15's

tobrien said:


> so the Z41-HA is what I want as a stock switch for the C2 HA body right?


Yes


----------



## tobrien

Size15's said:


> Yes


thank you


----------



## tobrien

could the Z48 or Z49s tolerate much current beyond the standard Z41? perhaps as much as a McClicky?


----------



## fresh eddie fresh

I'm not sure if it qualifies as a different tailcap, but the black clicky on my G3D-FYL is definitely a little shorter than the black clicky that came on my 6PD. On the light it is the same length, but the space in between the cap and the body (where the lanyard ring goes) is larger, like they trimmed a little off the bottom of the regular one.


----------



## ElectronGuru

The last 6PDs had an elongated Z59. Previous versions were the same size as L edition G2/G3s.


----------



## Groovy

This is the very information that I was looking for when I found CPF on google. Unfortunately now after reading so many other posts I am sure that I will end up with a few more lights. I did not know that the new LED lights were so bright.


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## tobrien

So I just bought a Z48 in the CPFMP and I wanna see if anyone knows its current handling capabilities? I'm assuming it's not as much as a McClicky but would it be safe to use with a ~3.5 amp module?


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## Cerealand

I also curious on a Surefire tail cap that I had just purchased on the marketplace. Any idea on how many amps a SW02 can handle? 

Thanks.


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## archimedes

The Oveready webpage for the McClicky cites 5 amps as "more than double" the stock amperage rating ....


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## ElectronGuru

The McClicky is than double the Z59, which has a smaller switch than the Z49. I don't recall ever reading a 'blown' report on the 48/49, which may well handle 5 amps.


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## el_Pablo

Is the switch on itself the same on surefire Z48/49 and SW01/02 ?


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## Cerealand

el_Pablo said:


> Is the switch on itself the same on surefire Z48/49 and SW01/02 ?



After a bit of researching yesterday, I think the switch is the same for the z48,z49, and SW02. The SW01 is a twisty, momentary tailcap.


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## Brightwatt

I love odd tailcaps like the SW01 fat and skinny but too expensive if you ever find one for sale


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## el_Pablo

Cerealand said:


> After a bit of researching yesterday, I think the switch is the same for the z48,z49, and SW02. The SW01 is a twisty, momentary tailcap.



Thanks Cerealand !


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## tobrien

ElectronGuru said:


> The McClicky is than double the Z59, which has a smaller switch than the Z49. I don't recall ever reading a 'blown' report on the 48/49, which may well handle 5 amps.



thanks for that info! my Z48's switch looks a lot like a mcclicky so far as the spring and stuff go lol


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## whiteoakjoe

What is the name for the 6P switch with the LazerProducts logo?


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## BenChiew

Great thread and archives for Surefire


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## socom1970

I believe there is a tailcap missing from the list: the two-stage black HA twisty tailcap for the K2 Kroma/Kroma Mil-Spec and other two-stage PKEF/DARPA lights. I don't know the Z number for it or if it even has one.

Edit: technically, there was another tailcap as well: a very special version of the two-stage for some PKEF/DARPA lights that was a two-stage twisty/clickie: soft-press low, hard-press high, harder-press click on. Essentially a three-stage!

Wish I had one for my PKEF Milky K2Kroma.


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## tobrien

what's the typical going rate of a SW02 in good, excellent, or mint condition? I think I'd like to trade my Z48+cash for one in the MP but I wanna figure out how much I'd be parting with. I'm assuming based on memory an excellent-to-mint condition SW02 is about $150 alone?


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## ampdude

Cerealand said:


> After a bit of researching yesterday, I think the switch is the same for the z48,z49, and SW02. The SW01 is a twisty, momentary tailcap.



Yes, it is the same mechanism inside.



whiteoakjoe said:


> What is the name for the 6P switch with the LazerProducts logo?



Same thing, Z41. Here's one from a marketplace sales thread posted the other day:












Seems if they came with a light, they were marked as such, 6P, 6Z, 6R, 9P, 7Z, ect. If they were sold as spare parts, they don't have a model designation on them.


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## jellydonut

socom1970 said:


> I believe there is a tailcap missing from the list: the two-stage black HA twisty tailcap for the K2 Kroma/Kroma Mil-Spec and other two-stage PKEF/DARPA lights. I don't know the Z number for it or if it even has one.
> 
> Edit: technically, there was another tailcap as well: a very special version of the two-stage for some PKEF/DARPA lights that was a two-stage twisty/clickie: soft-press low, hard-press high, harder-press click on. Essentially a three-stage!
> 
> Wish I had one for my PKEF Milky K2Kroma.


Yep, it's definitely missing, which is a shame as it's the best tailcap bar none. I managed to score one on the MP, which made my 6P go from dust collector to daily carry for over a year now.


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## tobrien

sorry to bump this thread again, but what should I do with Surefire switch internal parts? I have about four of the switches I've tapped out that were replaced by McClicky switches and rings. do these removed internals have any value for selling?


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## ElectronGuru

Sometimes guys need new boots, but the most likely need is for installing ZeroRez into caps that have no twisty parts. Both are fairly rare, and I don't recall seeing a WTB for the parts.


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## tobrien

ElectronGuru said:


> Sometimes guys need new boots, but the most likely need is for installing ZeroRez into caps that have no twisty parts. Both are fairly rare, and I don't recall seeing a WTB for the parts.



gotcha. that's what I was thinking haha

i'll hold on to them in case I suppose. thanks man!


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## archimedes

tobrien said:


> sorry to bump this thread again, but what should I do with Surefire switch internal parts? I have about four of the switches I've tapped out that were replaced by McClicky switches and rings. do these removed internals have any value for selling?



If you tagged 'em as collectible, these days, they'd probably sell for loads ... :lolsign: :shakehead


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## Robert5earl

has any one ever seen this tailcap? it has 3 green LEDs that are always on. Its on a DARPA DEF3D.


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## tobrien

Robert5earl said:


> has any one ever seen this tailcap? it has 3 green LEDs that are always on. Its on a DARPA DEF3D.


here's how you wanna do your image tags:

http://i.imgur.com/d0QHnPt.jpg[/IMG*] (remove asterisk)

quote this post to see what I mean.

anyways yea I guess that's a PK one?


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## sboonjue

Greetings! new CPF Member here!

I just got the flashlight "bug" and picked up a surefire Fury dual output, Im trying to figure out what tailcap model it is? and also how to remove/replace the tailcap boot? I picked up a green gitd boot and would love to install it!

I've been searching like crazy with no luck! Any suggestions? thanks in advance!


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## jamesmtl514

Oversize image removed. Re-post at 800x800 pixels max. See Rule 3. Images... If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. 

Bill


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## Double Barrel

Dug this up for the "students" ...your welcome


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## m4a1usr

Yeah it is excellent reference material. And it needs to be updated! So here is a missing image needing to be added.


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## FortyCaliber

*Re: Anatomy Of A Z59*








[URL=http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/forty_caliber/media/Z59Tailcap3800x420_zps421117c0.jpg.html]

[/URL]


I didn't realize I had two versions of Z59s in my possession.


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## tobrien

*Re: Anatomy Of A Z59*

are they both legit though?


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## FortyCaliber

*Re: Anatomy Of A Z59*



tobrien said:


> are they both legit though?



I think so, but I don't know that there has been a definitive answer. 

There was another thread about it, and I finally found it HERE.


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## bound

*Re: Anatomy Of A Z59*

surefire SW02-BK is the only? :thinking:











On top:SW02 HA 
Below:SW02 BK


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## bound

*Re: Anatomy Of A Z59*

Z41 for 6P-HA


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## RI Chevy

*Re: Anatomy Of A Z59*

Nice photos!


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## mcbrat

what's the model number for the shorter non-lockout E1 Executive tailcap? (upper right in pic below)
it won't take a mcclicky. not enough threads.


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## bound

surefire Z21


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## novice

I came across this picture of the Z31 tailcap on the web (not my photo), and thought I would add it to this thread.




...and here is another picture of the Z21 tailcap, taken from another angle. Again, not my picture, but I hope it is okay to do this for educational purposes.


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## traveldog

Hello forum:
I have a Surefire 9N from long ago and my kids took it apart.....yep they lost a switch part. The light has a push button end but mine doesn't push now, It's solid. I got the manual from Surefire and the I have all the parts listed except the switch part. I have the end of the switch that contacts with the thumb and the spring that surrounds it, but in the manuals image the switch appears to have a male part on the bottom as well, protruding toward the battery. Mine does not. That end of the switch is concave, and it looks like it needs another part, a spring or something, but I don't know what.

I am hoping someone knows about this switch and can tell me where to find a replacement. Surefire no longer carries any parts for this light so now I'm stuck!!! Any help is much appreciated!
-traveldog


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## m4a1usr

I just remembered that SF came out with a new switch recently and have been meaning to post it here to keep the thread alive. It's a smaller version of the XM00 switch but for the Scout lights. Just the switch is known as the DS00 but with the pressure pad (kit) it goes by the same XM designation I.E. DS07= switch+ 7 inch length cord. Was going to post the SF picture but not sure how they might take this sort of action? However I'm sure sooner or later one of us will end up with one so no one will get bent out of shape for some CR infringement.


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## s85sss

this should be a Z14, isn't it?






feel free to add it, picture is mine


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## bykfixer

Did the EDCL series use the L2 tailcap or is it a new model number?
I read the L2 body and tailcap will fire the EDCL engine correctly but had not read if it legos onto said EDCL light(s).


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## s85sss

EDCL1-T tailcap


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## thermal guy

Omg just saw that Z21! Never knew that existed. I need to fine me one of them.


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## id30209

bykfixer said:


> Did the EDCL series use the L2 tailcap or is it a new model number?
> I read the L2 body and tailcap will fire the EDCL engine correctly but had not read if it legos onto said EDCL light(s).


Just saw it, L2 is way bigger tailcap where EDCL is long threads E size. They will fire up each others engine but only if you could make them fit


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## thermal guy

So this is off of an old 6P I just bought.Im no expert but I have never seen the words sure-fire spaced out like this. Is this normal. It’s from the early 90’s


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## archimedes

Looks like a very old vintage "SFLP"-era piece (with what appears to be a period-correct switch boot)


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## thermal guy

So she’s old?


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## archimedes

I don't know the exact year that SureFire changed the lettering, but some searching of CPF could probably narrow down the range considerably :shrug:

It was back in the era of the "smooth round" bezels, before the "hex-type" (anti-roll) bezels.


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## thermal guy

Thanks arch. Not real important just kinda cool


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## archimedes

thermal guy said:


> Thanks arch. Not real important just kinda cool



Well, congrats. You did it, got me curious, so I'll link up the relevant threads for you below  

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?52639-Vintage-Surefire-6P

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?246534-Surefire-3P-Tailcap-Question

Based on those two threads (and some other miscellaneous posts) , I would estimate date of manufacture between ~ 1988 and 1994, most likely around 1990 if I had to pick a year.

The smooth (non-checkered) button makes it earlier in the range. The lack of model number also probably suggests an earlier vintage.


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## archimedes

Hey TG, would you mind posting a companion photo of that torch in profile here, for reference / archival purposes ?


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## thermal guy

Absolutely arch. And thanks for the research !


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## archimedes

That's a classic right there, thank you


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## thermal guy

I Have /had a lot of 6P’s but never and oldie. It may be blasphemy but think I’m going to put my M61WLL in it. Should be very similar to the P60 except a little bit better runtime😁


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## archimedes

Low power dropin is a good idea, since the lens is plastic (polycarbonate Lexan)


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## thermal guy

So just picked up this old guy. Round body 9P. It has a checkered boot. I thought all these old classics had smooth boots like my 6P. Did some come like this or has a new boot been installed?


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## Kestrel

Would help to show the 9P main body in profile as well; the 9P did have a few generations even back then.
FWIW, I have had a number of very old but original Z's, and they all came with the checkered pre-lockout boot - their best tailcap IMO.


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## thermal guy

God I’m horrible at taking pictures but think it will work. BTW 9P is the long one😁😁


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## VZScorpion

Wo what model is the tail cap of the Kroma and V2 Vampire?


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