# Zebralight H602w vs H603w - H600Fw vs H600 Fc



## Stefano (Aug 10, 2016)

Hi guys

My bad English prevents me from writing a review, on this page only pictures and a few words translated with Google Translator.

Zebralight H602w (XM-L2) vs H603w (new led XHP35) and H600Fw (XM-L2) vs H600Fc (XM-L2 EasyWhite Hi-CRI)










Headlamp have a beam total flood is very useful, I wanted to take advantage of an offer to buy a second copy of H602w, I obtained Instead a new H603w with led XHP35
I was afraid of having a novelty with the problems Instead everything went well.
No operating defect, no artifact in the beam (even toward a white wall) the new led XHP35 is effectively brighter and allows to obtain even a small improvement in the throw (little but visible)

Some pictures of the old and the new model, led XHP is smaller.
also other than the color of the headlamp (darker) and with a different design.








A detail of the different led
Please also note the different chrome bezel
In my H602w is chrome (shiny) while in H603w is chromed (but opaque)
In another thread on this forum some users have complained about the artifacts and refractive problems of H603 solving the problem with a black marker.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?420132-NEW-Zebralight-H603d-H603c-H603w-shoot-out/page2

With my H603w I do not see any artifact or refractive problem but perhaps because during the production was done a fix by the manufacturer and included a opaque bezel ?? (This is only my personal hypothetical thought)









Brightness levels have had throughout the III series of small adjustments, all down except the turbo which provides about 100 lumens more.

Also different is the electronic circuit that is now allowing even two CR123 batteries (useful in case you can not have a 18650 battery or if the temperatures are very low)

H602w: Operating Voltage Range: 2.7V - 4.2V
H603w: Operating Voltage Range: 2.7V - 6.0V

Below is a screen capture from the official website which shows a detail of the lighting levels

H602w:







H603w:





The tint is slightly cooler but still very pleasant and enjoyable
Both specimens have a beautiful tint "white" and luminous

Here are some photos taken in the forest, this was not an ideal evening for making videos and photos because there was wind brought from the sea and there was a bit of refraction (less visibility)

(These two animated images appear identical but are different)







Bright improvement is evident - the average level it is a minor improvement but still visible.
Although there are fewer lumens it seems slightly brighter (330 lm vs 312 lm)









It 'been brought down also the light level that precedes the turbo (620 lm vs 580)
Here I agree with Zebralight on the choice made, however, it remains a very light level and a increases (little bit) autonomy - also the heat is better managed - personally on the other levels (L and M) I would have left all unchanged
















About H603w I did later also of the home-test with a lux meter.
Given the type of beam is not easy but the instrument has confirmed what my trained eye told me
H603 has a more low-power on levels L of e M, also the tint seems more cold
from the level of 150 lumens tint improves and becomes more white (from 150 lumens on the tints of my two specimens are equivalent)
What the tool tells me is that H603 is much brighter on the H2 and H1 level (compared to H602w)

I set H2 on both specimens to 330 lm (H602w) and 312 (H603w)
I not have done the test with the lux meter on the level (150/139 lm)

Zebralight declares for H603w of slightly smaller values of all levels except H1
But I also find that the H2 level of H603w is more bright (but according to the manufacturer's data should be dimmer than H602w - 330 vs 312 lm lm)
My H602w I like best at low levels (as a tint and brightness) H603 is more bright at medium/high levels
I do not know if this depends on my specimen or H603 they are all in this way..

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I also wanted to buy the Zebralight H600 Fc (there is also a version called Fd that has a tint of 5000 K)
Fc has a High CRI (83-95) and a led XM-L2 "EasyWithe" with 4000 Kelvin grade.

Here is a detail of the technical data and the light level taken from the official website







Tint is warmer (4000 K) although frankly I thought it was more warmer (but this may vary from specimen to specimen)
I thought to find a "reddish" as Armytek Wizard instead I found a delicate pink (this color is visible using the flashlight on a white wall at close distance)
Initially I had some doubts then using the headlamp in outdoor I realized that it is a good specimen, and that the tint is beautiful.

It is much warm of my H600Fw I purchased recently (but the led are different) I do not know if the frosted lens is identical or is optimized for this type of led.
However apart from the type of LEDs, the fact that it is Hi-Cree and the output power of the H600Fc is really nice to use because the emitted beam is completely different from my H600Fw (XM-L2) it is really smooth, has no stronger central area.
The brightness is very uniformly distributed while in my (recent) H600Fw there is a more concentrated central area that favors the throw.

It 's really pleasant to the eye using the H600Fc (probably the same for H600fd) and specifically that I am not referring to the tint or the fact that it is Hi-CRI but to the fact that the beam is homogeneous.
But this (compared to H600Fw) translates into a lot less throw

The H603 has a different look from H602, instead H600Fc and H600Fw up externally identical, only when they are powered it is possible distinguish them









In the two photos next few details of the led of the two Zebralight at the level Ultra-low
















In the following picture the two Headlamp at the level M2.
Note the color difference - both have the opaque lens but the most concentrated beam is that of H600 Fw - H600Fc has a homogeneous beam









In the next pictures the two Headlamp Zebralight H600Fc and H600Fw in the forest.
Different led, different tint, different beam - H600Fc is Hi-CRI, H600Fw not
To Zebralight I also compared the Wizard V3 warm (Basic version) with led XP-L









Because of Hi-CRI and a very uniform beam (and enough even large) the H600Fc offers less throw.
In the following image a comparison between the Zebralight H600Fc and Armytek Wizard









In this photo (in the parking) I have moved position slightly, it is not perfect.
Despite what you may see the lowest throw of H600fc but also it illuminates anyway the side better








In this photo a detail of the color difference









Again plant to try to show the difference in performance of different colors in nature









H600Fw vs H600Fc: 
A short distance away, in the garden of various power levels.
The H600Fc appears less bright but please remember that even light levels are different (312 lm vs 234 lm) and even the H600Fc beam is wider (this also contribute to make it less bright because the light is distributed over a slightly larger surface area)








In this photo (identical to previous) I also added the H603w - so you can see the totally different beam of H603w









This is the M1 level - in reality emitted light is higher than that which you see in the picture.
However H600Fc on M1 level is much less light of H600Fw (for the reasons mentioned earlier) maybe you could compensate for this with a higher power M1 (example 61 or 63 lumens)









This is a little video of the ones I've realized, it shows the headlamp in the forest.





This is another video where I use H602w and H603w but I made the mistake to move away too far from the camcorder






Other video with H600Fw - H600Fc - H603w - H602w - Armytek Wizard V3






Battery:
In the short time available to me I made the quick test with my batteries.
In recent times I only use Panasonic NCR18650B without PCB (with them no problem)

But some recent Zebralight models are a little bit problematic with some batteries (because of the size)

I tried a few batteries with PCBs I own - I saw that H600Fc is narrower than H603w
Eagletac 3400 and 2500 mA (OK)
Ampmax 3100 and 3400 mA (OK)
KeepPower 2600: OK with H603w but it gets inside the Headlamp with little tolerance, it would be better removing the label extraction is problematic - KP2600  do not enter into the H600Fc
KeepPower 2900: I have not tried the KP 2900 because I keep them in a sealed box but the 2900 versions have a smaller diameter than to KP 2600 so might go well (maybe ..)

Conclusion:
For the moment I am very satisfied with the H600Fc but, however, I feel the need of some more lumens on M1 - M2 - H2b levels
Unfortunately I do not have a light box to check if my specimen dispense lumens declared by the manufacturer.

My personal opinion is that it would be perfect to have some more lumens on M1 and M2 H2b levels - I do not pretend much but something like an approximately 10% (example: approximately 61 or 63 lm of M1 and approximately 280 lm of H2b)
The difference in brightness with H600Fw is very sensitive (even in outdoor) but it is reciprocated with a very nice beam as shape and color - it does not disturb the vision even after a long time (even in places closed H600Fc is ideal because the beam is agreeable)

If you are undecided about which model you buy might possibly regard the H600Fd, it is slightly colder as color (always Hi-CRI but 5000 Kelvin) it has a few more lumens.
But if you love the warm tint H600Fc is the light for you !

With these considerations about H600Fc brightness I do not want to be too critical.
Just look at the Zebralight models from a few years ago, my first H600 MKI had "only" 750 lumens for only 3 minutes (after 3 minutes down the level to 420 lumens) neutral version of H600 MKI had "only" 645 lumens (down after 3 minutes to 361 lumens)
Today, four years later we have a Headlamp with 800 lumens with neutral tint and High CRI, a PID temperature control that the light level lowers only if required (but the lumens for us flashaholics are never enough..)

The brightness of my H600Fw (2016) is phenomenal and probably the XHP35 version has more light yet (I'd like to realize a test but I should win the lottery to buy all available models !) anyway as future purchases I'd like to try the H600Fd - the H603c - the H600Fw (XHP35)

I also made some comparative video between the Headlamp that you have seen on this page, I will try to publish them within two days.
If possible I will make other comparative photos.
Thanks to all for the reading of these impressions of use

(Translation by Google Translate)


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## eraursls1984 (Aug 10, 2016)

*Re: Zebralight H602w vs H603w - H600Fw vs H600 Fc (incomplete)*

I love seeing your comparisons. Great job as always.


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## Stefano (Aug 10, 2016)

*Re: Zebralight H602w vs H603w - H600Fw vs H600 Fc (incomplete)*

Thanks eraursls1984


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## Stefano (Aug 11, 2016)

Add small video to post #1
Other tomorrow


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## flybird (Aug 11, 2016)

Stefano , always love your review. Eventhough I own H600FW , but you make me want to have H600FC ( Love that warm tint  )


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## tech25 (Aug 11, 2016)

Thanks for the review, great job as usual!


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## neil944 (Aug 11, 2016)

Thanks for the review and especially thanks for the youtube videos you have posted. They were invaluable and the only ones I found in helping me decide on my H600fd purchase. Absolutely love that light. 
I'm counting down the days till they release a SC600 in the d tint.


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## Stefano (Aug 11, 2016)

Thank you all for appreciation.
I added a few photo and small changes to the text.
Perhaps other photo and videos in the coming days.


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## Stefano (Aug 11, 2016)

H603w: I remade the test with the lux meter tool

Of course in a very empirical, the aim was not to understand exactly how many lux but only see the difference in the various light levels.
I have made a short-distance tests but blocking the Headlamp on a support so as to prevent error (just approach or move away even slightly to see vary the lux)
As written in the review I have verified that the H603 is more bright on H2 (312 lm) and H1 Hevels (although the manufacturer declares less)
On the levels Low and Medium the H603 is less bright (but the datasheet confirms this) the only thing that I had not checked is whether even the lowest level H2 (set to 139 lm) behaved in this way.
I confirm that also in this case H603 is more bright
Despite the data sheet says otherwise the H603w is much brighter than H602w on all "H" level

I have also verified that in turbo level the H603 after a few seconds of operation has a drop-down of the lux much slower (test done at home with high temperatures)
I do not know if this depends on an improved PID (quite likely) or if the features of the new led XHP35 also affect this.
Disappointment for the tint, my H602w white is very "clear", H603w is rather a white with a slightly bluish but after the 150 lumens tint improves and the two torches at high levels are almost equal
I can not be certain that all the specimens are so but the manufacturer claims for H602w 4400 K and 4500 for H603w (perhaps the reason is this)
Unfortunately I recently saw many flashlights warm and this makes me want a warmer tint, I have H603c in my thoughts

(Translate with Google)


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## PB Wilson (Aug 12, 2016)

Really fantastic comparison shots and clips! You do a great service to the flashlight-buying population!

Your earlier clips made me decide on my H600Fd purchase earlier this year. Your comparisons with the other Zebralight headlamps and a great conversation with a Zebralight rep steered me in the right direction.

My H600Fd also has the wonderful homogeneous beam pattern that your H600Fc has. I understand your comments regarding the seemingly lower M settings, but I have found that in the woods on the trails near my house, it works well. 

Enjoy those lights and thanks again for your contributions!


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## Gogonfable (Aug 12, 2016)

Hey Stefano, where do i buy a H600fd in europe or France ? Do you buy your lamps on the website of ZL? How does the warranty works in europe ? do you have to send the lamp back to the US with their high cost of shipping ?


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## SilentOrpheus (Aug 12, 2016)

Thanks for another great review - your previous comparisons on the older versions were a giant help in deciding on my first zebra light purchase.


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## maukka (Aug 13, 2016)

Gogonfable said:


> Hey Stefano, where do i buy a H600fd in europe or France ? Do you buy your lamps on the website of ZL? How does the warranty works in europe ? do you have to send the lamp back to the US with their high cost of shipping ?



I've been using nkon.nl for my Zebralight needs. The customer service is great!


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## Stefano (Aug 14, 2016)

Thanks to all again.
@gofonfable. I bought my Zebralight on the Dutch site that has indicated you maukka, in case of problems he can help directly with the guarantee (no shipment in China)

Yesterday I had a long hike in the mountains with the two new hedlamp (H603w and H600Fc)
They have given me satisfaction.
I used the H600Fc on all levels. I have made repeatedly the programming the H600Fc with the proper brightness level for the path
I used the level of 515 lumens very frequently, I have not received any overheating,
In some very difficult places I used the H603w to 312 lumens level it makes a fantastic light, I could see how if it was day.
I must say that in outdoor the white tint with bluish tinge (if using very low levels) is not visible.
One thing I forgot to write on the review is that the H603w is a bit more flood than the H602w (but during use it is impossible to see the difference)
I realized this in the house when invert the H603w and H602w over a sheet of white paper (both to firefly level) and looked the width beam
H603w just more flood (but the difference is barely perceptible.
I printed a goniometer of paper and did a test, H603w has the widest beam of about two or three degrees (but I repeat again, in outdooor impossible to see the difference)
Maybe I'll do a quick run-time tests but (at least for H600Fc) I think that values given by the manufacturer to be reliable, after the great use of H600Fc I got home, and it indicates two flashes of autonomy (the turbo work yet)

(I hope to Google translation is understandable)


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## mobi (Aug 15, 2016)

deleted duplicate post. Original below.


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## mobi (Aug 15, 2016)

Thanks for the review, Stefano. Your English translations are clear, and the occasional word here or there that might seem unusual in context to an American reader is still quite descriptive and gives your essays a zestful flavor.

I just got the H600 Fd. Lately I've been using using the H502c as my main light. That was a fallback plan, having lost some of my other Zebras. Switching last night to the Fd, I missed the rich reds and browns I get with the "c". A while back on the forum, a few of us were sharing our experiments with wearing two headlamps at a time. We had mixed success. Nevertheless, the advantage of having a synthetic high CRI by wearing the 600 Fd and supplementing it with light from the 502c outweighs the downside of walking around with two lights jockeying for position on my head.

This is not to detract from the reds and browns from the Fd. The high CRI delivers a broad range of colors. It is just that the blues are better with the "d" and reds better with the "c", and we were trying to have the best of both worlds.

Perhaps you could show some combo shots in the future, say of the 600w and 600c on at the same time.


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## Gogonfable (Aug 15, 2016)

Thank you for the website. THey no longer have the h600Fc and they only have the h600Fd. I read on this forum that the version ''c'' is better to pierce the fog, so I favour this version.

I forgot to ask where I can get a belt clip for the zebra H600F, preferably a magnetized clip, since the lamp does not come with a magnet inside.


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## Stefano (Aug 15, 2016)

Hi mobi, I agree with you.
I also wear two projectors at a time but when there is a strong tint difference it can be a problem.
Regarding the comparison between the various models Zebralight German flashaolics have made an excellent comparison

http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/25-zebralight-lampen-im-beamshotvergleich.50095

On this page there are many beamshot (but what you ask is after the beam shots)
Watching between middle and end page, there are four pictures of a vase of colorful flowers
There is a comparison between Zebralight H600F, H600Fw, H600Fc, H600Fd
I think this is a perfect tint/colors comparison


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## Gogonfable (Aug 16, 2016)

Very good. I like the color of the version ''c'', but I like the improved intensity of the version ''d''. I also like the H600Fw Mk III XHP35 Floody Neutral White, because it has longer runtime. I really like the idea of getting 12hours of light around 150--200 lumens without running hot, but the high CRI versions are not as good as the ''w'' version for this. And I do not see a massive difference between the tints of the ''d'' and the ''w''.


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## scs (Aug 16, 2016)

Stefano said:


> Hi mobi, I agree with you.
> I also wear two projectors at a time but when there is a strong tint difference it can be a problem.
> Regarding the comparison between the various models Zebralight German flashaolics have made an excellent comparison
> 
> ...



Thanks for the link, Stefano. If those shots are valid for comparison, the beam of the H600Fw Mk3 is very impressive. At the distance in the pictures, it reaches as far as the beams of the H600w Mk3 and SC63w, and even nearly as far as the SC600w Mk3, but also provides very wide and bright flood.


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## Stefano (Aug 16, 2016)

scs said:


> the beam of the H600Fw Mk3 is very impressive



Yes, New XHP lights are really bright (but are slightly colder MKII series)
I'm undecided on the next purchase, I'd like a new H600w or H600Fw with XHP led but my H600Fw (XM-L2 with the new frosted lens) that I bought recently is so bright that for the moment I see no reason to replace it


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## TCY (Aug 17, 2016)

Always great comparison gif and reviews coming from Stefano. Good job!


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## Gogonfable (Aug 18, 2016)

Stefano, can you talk about the tint of the h603w compared to the tint of the h600Fc, both the tint indoor and outdoor ?


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## mobi (Aug 18, 2016)

Stefano said:


> Watching between middle and end page, there are four pictures of a vase of colorful flowers
> There is a comparison between Zebralight H600F, H600Fw, H600Fc, H600Fd
> I think this is a perfect tint/colors comparison



Nice. Thank you for the link. The photographer did a good job in bringing out the subtle differences among the lights.

If I may say, the different tints have an emotional component as well. Perhaps that is because they trigger feelings connected with different parts of the day that we experience as the sunlight tint shifts from early morning till late evening. The cool colors can also evoke a moonlight mood. I think that is why I feel energized when I combine the "c" and "d" lights: it can feel like noon, the "strength" of the day.


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## Stefano (Aug 20, 2016)

@TCY Thanks !

I did an runtime test with Zebralight H603w

I used a Panasonic NCR18650B full charged with Xtar VP2 and I started the test with the H2 level programmed to 312 lumens.
According to the manufacturer's specifications with this brightness level there are 4.3 hours of battery life
(it has always remained at 312 lm and has not been touched until at the step down)

The test started at 00:10 AM
At 4:53 AM the H603w down to the level M1 (61 lm) 
The results exceeded the specifications with 25 minutes more

After the descent to the level M1 is no longer possible to return to any level H

If my calculations are correct 283 minutes corresponds to 4.7 hours
The light is still on at M1 level, but I do not know if I have the patience to see another step down to the low level ;-)

Edit:
At approximately 5:30 AM the H603w has stepped down to the level L1
I stopped the test at 5:50 (with H603w still working on L1)
It, however, at my request seems to work even on M1 and M2 (even if only for a few seconds or a minute at most)
I inserted the battery into XTAR VP2: it measures 2,78 Volt


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## mobi (Aug 21, 2016)

Stefano said:


> @TCY Thanks !
> 
> I did an runtime test with Zebralight H603w
> 
> ...



Thank you Stefano for conducting the runtime test.

Be interesting to find out what the voltage reading was at the moment it stepped down. I am motivated to try some runtime tests here.


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## Gogonfable (Aug 25, 2016)

I tried to insert a protected panasonic 18650, it failed for the mk3 h600fd but it is OK for the mk3 h600fw. Very odd...


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## mico (Sep 8, 2016)

I have both the H600Fc mk3 and the H603c. Whilst I prefer (especially indoors) the tint of the 'c' to anything cooler that I have, I find that in the woods there is something flat about the view that seems less obvious with a cooler beam, even a 'w'. Looking up into a tree canopy whilst I can see many different details it seems, for example, that the branches are not so 3d. With a cooler beam they look more pronounced.

It could be that the cooler lights are running with slightly higher lumens, or that the... Ah, I think what I'm saying is that the 'c' appears to be lower contrast (whilst with higher saturation).

Anyone else experience anything comparable?


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## scs (Sep 8, 2016)

mico said:


> I have both the H600Fc mk3 and the H603c. Whilst I prefer (especially indoors) the tint of the 'c' to anything cooler that I have, I find that in the woods there is something flat about the view that seems less obvious with a cooler beam, even a 'w'. Looking up into a tree canopy whilst I can see many different details it seems, for example, that the branches are not so 3d. With a cooler beam they look more pronounced.
> 
> It could be that the cooler lights are running with slightly higher lumens, or that the... Ah, I think what I'm saying is that the 'c' appears to be lower contrast (whilst with higher saturation).
> 
> Anyone else experience anything comparable?



Read somewhere that the blue portion of the spectrum gives depth perception. The C could be a bit low in blue. A member here has done spectrum measurements for both those lights. Should come up with a search.


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## mico (Sep 9, 2016)

scs said:


> Read somewhere that the blue portion of the spectrum gives depth perception. The C could be a bit low in blue. A member here has done spectrum measurements for both those lights. Should come up with a search.


Hey thanks, that's really helpful. (And maybe the woods are pretty low in blue to begin with...)


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## roger-roger (Sep 9, 2016)

mico said:


> I have both the H600Fc mk3 and the H603c. Whilst I prefer (especially indoors) the tint of the 'c' to anything cooler that I have, I find that in the woods there is something flat about the view that seems less obvious with a cooler beam, even a 'w'. Looking up into a tree canopy whilst I can see many different details it seems, for example, that the branches are not so 3d. With a cooler beam they look more pronounced.
> 
> It could be that the cooler lights are running with slightly higher lumens, or that the... Ah, I think what I'm saying is that the 'c' appears to be lower contrast (whilst with higher saturation).
> 
> Anyone else experience anything comparable?





Would be nice to see comments on this based on the Fc and Fd, to remove some of the variables.


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## Collins (Sep 10, 2016)

Can you double check all of your pics and listings to make sure they are listed correctly? The spec sheet says the H600Fw has a Cree XHP35.


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## eraursls1984 (Sep 10, 2016)

Collins said:


> Can you double check all of your pics and listings to make sure they are listed correctly? The spec sheet says the H600Fw has a Cree XHP35.


Here has the H600Fw MK II. The XHP35 is the H600Fw MK III.


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## Collins (Sep 10, 2016)

eraursls1984 said:


> Here has the H600Fw MK II. The XHP35 is the H600Fw MK III.



Okay, didn't notice that.


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## zemmo (Sep 13, 2016)

Does anyone know what's the difference between the H600w Mk III and the H603w? They seem to be the same light, as far as I can tell. TIA


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## scs (Sep 13, 2016)

zemmo said:


> Does anyone know what's the difference between the H600w Mk III and the H603w? They seem to be the same light, as far as I can tell. TIA



600 series use reflector, giving traditional beam profile (hotspot + spill)
603 series does not use reflector, giving a uniform wide beam.


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## zemmo (Sep 13, 2016)

many thanks, just what I wanted to know, as I like the hotspot.


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## eraursls1984 (Sep 13, 2016)

zemmo said:


> many thanks, just what I wanted to know, as I like the hotspot.


Also, the H600Fw is a H600w with a frosted lens. This gives it a beam profile in between the 600 and 603.


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## Collins (Sep 16, 2016)

Out of the different floody versions Zebralight has, which one has the smoothest hotspot? i.e. more like pure flood with hotter center vs. the spot/spill type of look.

Seems like Zebralight has 3 or so different floody versions out right now with the new releases that came out.

Also with floody, since the Zebralight sits offcenter on your forehead, is the hotspot being off center noticeable when in doors doing things up close, or not noticeable at all? Currently use a cheapo spot/spill headlamp, and moved it off center, and the hotspot being off center was pretty annoying.


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## dubliftment (Sep 25, 2016)

I have a question, concerning the drivers. I am wondering why the H600Fd/c III have the same runtimes as the II versions of lets say the H600/w (30h on M1, 5.5 months on 0,01 Lm etc) But the Input voltage is supposed to be 2,7-6V instead of 2,7-4,35Volts. Is it a typo or does that mean the XM-L easy white LED also needs a 6V boost driver but does not have the same economics as the new III series that feature the XHP35 LEDs?


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## scs (Sep 25, 2016)

Collins said:


> Out of the different floody versions Zebralight has, which one has the smoothest hotspot? i.e. more like pure flood with hotter center vs. the spot/spill type of look.
> 
> Seems like Zebralight has 3 or so different floody versions out right now with the new releases that came out.
> 
> Also with floody, since the Zebralight sits offcenter on your forehead, is the hotspot being off center noticeable when in doors doing things up close, or not noticeable at all? Currently use a cheapo spot/spill headlamp, and moved it off center, and the hotspot being off center was pretty annoying.



The beam is diffused enough and broad enough that it's not noticeable to me. Even if it were slightly noticeable, a nudge left or right should be enough to fix it.

The flood series has the most uniform flood beam. The floody series is next. Its hotspot is very diffused, wide , and even, so it's hard to pinpoint where it ends. The current 603 flood series, based on some reviews, produces a shadowy cross shaped artifact in the center of the beam, as a result of the emitter used.


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## scs (Sep 25, 2016)

dubliftment said:


> I have a question, concerning the drivers. I am wondering why the H600Fd/c III have the same runtimes as the II versions of lets say the H600/w (30h on M1, 5.5 months on 0,01 Lm etc) But the Input voltage is supposed to be 2,7-6V instead of 2,7-4,35Volts. Is it a typo or does that mean the XM-L easy white LED also needs a 6V boost driver but does not have the same economics as the new III series that feature the XHP35 LEDs?



The XM-L2 EW is a 6v emitter. The xhp 35 is 12v. The ew sacrifices a bit of efficiency for higher cri. The 35 is more efficient than the ew to begin with iirc.


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## Collins (Sep 28, 2016)

scs said:


> The beam is diffused enough and broad enough that it's not noticeable to me. Even if it were slightly noticeable, a nudge left or right should be enough to fix it.
> 
> The flood series has the most uniform flood beam. The floody series is next. Its hotspot is very diffused, wide , and even, so it's hard to pinpoint where it ends. The current 603 flood series, based on some reviews, produces a shadowy cross shaped artifact in the center of the beam, as a result of the emitter used.



Yeah, I believe that cross shaped artifact is in the hi cri 603. The XHP35 doesn't have that problem from what I've read.


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## scs (Sep 28, 2016)

Collins said:


> Yeah, I believe that cross shaped artifact is in the hi cri 603. The XHP35 doesn't have that problem from what I've read.



Thanks for the correction. The XM-L2 Easy White is the multi-die emitter that's causing the problem.


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## dezz (Nov 4, 2016)

Could someone please tell me which ZL has the longest throw? I don't need the flood that much just long throw and long batt light for bike/trail finding. 
All those models with "w" and "c" and "f" are blowing my mind :sick2:


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## iamlucky13 (Nov 4, 2016)

There is a pattern to Zebralight's model number scheme, but it's not easy to explain, so I'm not going to bother at the moment.

The easy answer is to look for the models that are *not* labeled "Flood" (120 degree, fairly even beam) or "Floody" (90 degree gradually fading beam). Zebralight describe the remaining lights as having a 12 degree hot spot and 80 degrees of spill. That's as throwy as Zebralight gets.

Take a look at the H600 (5700K cool white) or the H600w (4500K neutral white).


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## isn4i (Dec 29, 2016)

Stefano said:


> Also different is the electronic circuit that is now allowing even two CR123 batteries (useful in case you can not have a 18650 battery or if the temperatures are very low)
> 
> H602w: Operating Voltage Range: 2.7V - 4.2V
> H603w: Operating Voltage Range: 2.7V - 6.0V
> ...



Dear all, my first post. Currently having a Nitecore MH20, a ZL SC5 and a ZL H502. Like to consider a new ZL 18650 light for outdoor.

From Stefano's post, he mentioned CR123 and protected batteries for H603W. My questions are

1. Is H603w able to take CR123 running at turbo? Is there other ZL headlamps that can take CR123?

2. My Nitecore MH20 is using a Nitecore ZL189 18650 battery. Can this be used on ZL 18650 headlamps?

Thanks for any response.


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## OnlyownEnergizer250lumen (Jan 2, 2017)

Im about to buy either an Olight H1nw Nova, or ZL H602 or H603 (not sure w/c/d/etc) and I am wondering if it is worth the potential artifact issue (I'd rather not have to take a sharpie to my bezel) and the extra 20$.

There is nothing wrong with the H602w right? If I'm using it for reading and light photography and up close work, would I truly miss anything from the H603? I'm coming from a Nitecore HC30 edc. Never owned a mule before.

Any advice is appreciated!


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## myflashguy (Jan 4, 2017)

OnlyownEnergizer250lumen said:


> Im about to buy either an Olight H1nw Nova, or ZL H602 or H603 (not sure w/c/d/etc) and I am wondering if it is worth the potential artifact issue (I'd rather not have to take a sharpie to my bezel) and the extra 20$.
> 
> There is nothing wrong with the H602w right? If I'm using it for reading and light photography and up close work, would I truly miss anything from the H603? I'm coming from a Nitecore HC30 edc. Never owned a mule before.
> 
> Any advice is appreciated!



I have H603 it's the brightest in terms of lumen if I'm correct. It's my first mule. It has a wide smooth beam which I think suitable for your reading & photography work. Although imo high CRI would be good for photography but it's your choice (usually High CRI will have lower lumen) But downside is it doesn't throw very well for those who want to see over 100 meter or so

Honestly this thing is extremely bright so anyone look at you will be temporarily blinded


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## isn4i (Jan 14, 2017)

isn4i said:


> Dear all, my first post. Currently having a Nitecore MH20, a ZL SC5 and a ZL H502. Like to consider a new ZL 18650 light for outdoor.
> 
> From Stefano's post, he mentioned CR123 and protected batteries for H603W. My questions are
> 
> ...



anyone can help me?


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## Trango (Jan 14, 2017)

Zebralight do not officially support CR123, if you use it, is at you own risk, and I doubt you can run it on turbo, the turbo mode on H600 models draws around 3,5A, CR123 can supply around 1-1,5A as I remember.
As for the battery I can't find the model ZL189, did you mean NL189? The official specification is up to 69mm long, my Eagletac 3500mAh is specified at 68,5mm and fits just barely, the Nitecore NL189 is specified at 69,2mm. I would not use it, I was afraid to cause damage with my Eagletac tightening it all the way, luckily nothing broke.I am now using the Sanyo GA it fits very nicely, but is unprotected.
Hope the above helps.


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