# Looking for a lathe...



## Tekno_Cowboy

I'm looking at getting a lathe sometime this spring, and I'm wondering where I can get a small, decent lathe for cheap. Used or new doesn't matter to me, as long as the quality is there.

Any suggestions?


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## wquiles

A 7x machine makes for a good entry level lathe, and right now Harbor Freight has the 8x14 on special (until Feb 28 or so), for something around $485 or so 

EDIT: the HF special is even cheaper:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2838593&postcount=67

Will


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## precisionworks

Have you looked at this one:

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/tls/1030555694.html

He's been running that ad since 02/05/09, with no takers, which means he's a little high on price. Not a bad looking machine, probably worth $400 - $450.


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## LLCoolBeans

wquiles said:


> A 7x machine makes for a good entry level lathe, and right now Harbor Freight has the 8x14 on special (until Feb 28 or so), for something around $485 or so
> 
> EDIT: the HF special is even cheaper:
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2838593&postcount=67
> 
> Will



I was at HF this weekend, there was no such deal advertised. Maybe the sale started today? I'll have to swing back by tomorrow.

I'm in the same boat. I'm having trouble deciding if I should bide my time and try to find something used, or just buy one of the HF bench lathes. I guess if I can get the $485 deal, I'll just buy the HF.

Anyway, I have a question about this lathe. The HF website says the following...

_"[FONT=arial, sans-serif]SAE threads: 18 threads from 12 to 52 TPI"[/FONT]_

Which 18 thread pitches?

Thanks


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## Tekno_Cowboy

wquiles said:


> A 7x machine makes for a good entry level lathe, and right now Harbor Freight has the 8x14 on special (until Feb 28 or so), for something around $485 or so
> 
> EDIT: the HF special is even cheaper:
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2838593&postcount=67
> 
> Will



I didn't see either on the website, could you put up a link?

Will a 7x or 8x lathe be big enough for doing things like making a Maglite heatsink, or boring out a surefire, or making a 18650 size Ti light?


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## StrikerDown

I have never seen a lathe larger than 7" x 10" in any of the 3 local HF stores here. Except that they have a book with other machinery that they can get/order for you.


Will, What is the through spindle bore size on the 8" x 14" ?


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## Tekno_Cowboy

StrikerDown said:


> I have never seen a lathe larger than 7" x 10" in any of the 3 local HF stores here. Except that they have a book with other machinery that they can get/order for you.
> 
> 
> Will, What is the through spindle bore size on the 8" x 14" ?



That was my next question


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## LLCoolBeans

I'm leaning toward 9x14, it's only a couple hundred dollars more and seems a bit more like a real lathe.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45861


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## wquiles

LLCoolBeans said:


> I was at HF this weekend, there was no such deal advertised. Maybe the sale started today? I'll have to swing back by tomorrow.
> 
> I'm in the same boat. I'm having trouble deciding if I should bide my time and try to find something used, or just buy one of the HF bench lathes. I guess if I can get the $485 deal, I'll just buy the HF.
> 
> Anyway, I have a question about this lathe. The HF website says the following...
> 
> _"[FONT=arial, sans-serif]SAE threads: 18 threads from 12 to 52 TPI"[/FONT]_
> 
> Which 18 thread pitches?
> 
> Thanks



All of the ones used in flashlights 

Seriously, the selections are very nice for the stuff we do here. If you go to the Lathemaster website (www.lathemaster.com) and look at their 8x14 lathe (which is the same identical machine as the HF 8x12) you will probably get more on the specs.

The sale has been going on for several weeks, and the employees have no clue. Send forum member *deebee* a PM and ask for details - he just bought it.





Tekno_Cowboy said:


> I didn't see either on the website, could you put up a link?
> 
> Will a 7x or 8x lathe be big enough for doing things like making a Maglite heatsink, or boring out a surefire, or making a 18650 size Ti light?



Do a search on threads started by "wquiles" in the Homemade subforum - except for the last 2 months, everything was made with either a 7x of the HF8x12 lathe. Heatsinks, boring out, all OK. Titanium? I never tried, but you should be able to with the right tooling.




StrikerDown said:


> I have never seen a lathe larger than 7" x 10" in any of the 3 local HF stores here. Except that they have a book with other machinery that they can get/order for you.
> 
> 
> Will, What is the through spindle bore size on the 8" x 14" ?



MT3 I think, this is slightly under an inch at the smallest point. The Lathemaster web site should have more technical information.




LLCoolBeans said:


> I'm leaning toward 9x14, it's only a couple hundred dollars more and seems a bit more like a real lathe.
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45861



I saw that in person, and I can tell you that the 8x12 is a much better in many areas - the 8x12 is really a little bit overbuilt for its size 

That being said, if you have the extra money, the 9x30 (see the Lathemaster web site) would be a more ideal smaller lathe 

Will


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## LLCoolBeans

wquiles said:


> I saw that in person, and I can tell you that the 8x12 is a much better in many areas - the 8x12 is really a little bit overbuilt for its size
> 
> That being said, if you have the extra money, the 9x30 (see the Lathemaster web site) would be a more ideal smaller lathe



In what areas is the 8x12 better? Maybe I'll go with the 8x12.


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## LLCoolBeans

Another question for you...

How similar are the HF lathes to the lathemaster lathes? Is there a significant difference in quality?


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## deebee

I just spotted this thread. It was me that posted the info that the HF8x12(14) is on sale for $449 until Feb 23rd.

This seems to be something of a state secret!! It is not available on-line for that price:- it is an "In store special" except they don't keep it in the stores!
You have to go to a HF store have them order the lathe, item 44859-9VGA, pay for it and they will order it in! The staff at the stores are not aware if this until they look the model number up in their catalog.

There is a very good review of this lathe here:
http://www.annisquamgranite.com/8x12ReviewPg1.htm

You can ignore the warning in blue at the beginning-it has turned out to be a false alarm. I have spent days and days researching small lathes and can find nothing negative about these lathes-from those who have used them!


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## LLCoolBeans

deebee said:


> I just spotted this thread. It was me that posted the info that the HF8x12(14) is on sale for $449 until Feb 23rd.
> 
> This seems to be something of a state secret!! It is not available on-line for that price:- it is an "In store special" except they don't keep it in the stores!
> You have to go to a HF store have them order the lathe, item 44859-9VGA, pay for it and they will order it in! The staff at the stores are not aware if this until they look the model number up in their catalog.



So at what point is the discount applied?

Edit: I just called HF, they knew nothing of the sale like you said, but quoted me $549, which is $50 less than the price advertised on the website.


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## Tekno_Cowboy

I called the local HF, and the person who answered was so cranky, I decided to call back later and hope that there was someone there with a better personality.


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## wquiles

LLCoolBeans said:


> In what areas is the 8x12 better? Maybe I'll go with the 8x12.



- The distance between the rails is wider in the 8x
- The carriage is wider in the 8x
- The cross slide is wider in the 8x
etc.

That 9x machine is still a "light" machine like the 7x series, just a tad larger. The 8x (and the 9x30 from Lathemaster) are in a different class/size.

If doing it all over again, I would still pick the 8x over the 7x/9x, and if I had the extra money I would get the 9x30.

Will


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## LLCoolBeans

wquiles said:


> - The distance between the rails is wider in the 8x
> - The carriage is wider in the 8x
> - The cross slide is wider in the 8x
> etc.
> 
> That 9x machine is still a "light" machine like the 7x series, just a tad larger. The 8x (and the 9x30 from Lathemaster) are in a different class/size.
> 
> If doing it all over again, I would still pick the 8x over the 7x/9x, and if I had the extra money I would get the 9x30.
> 
> Will



Thanks for the tip Will. 8x12 is ordered and should be on my bench by Monday.


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## deebee

LLCoolBeans said:


> So at what point is the discount applied?
> 
> Edit: I just called HF, they knew nothing of the sale like you said, but quoted me $549, which is $50 less than the price advertised on the website.



Well, they quoted me $649 initially so things are improving!!

I phoned the head office in California and confirmed the $449 price (last week). Then I called the nearest store to me and gave them the item number 44859-9VGA and told them it was on sale and would they look it up please. They did so but insisted that I drive to the store-100 miles-pay for the machine ($449) which they would then order, and then return in 10 days to pick up my machine-400 miles of driving! I asked to speak to the manager and explained the situation to him. he said "No problem" and ordered the machine without my having to pay in advance. So now i have to drive to the store to pick it up and pay $449 but I will use the opportunity to buy some more tools :twothumbs

Perhaps this is the occasion to describe what I have been able to find out about the Lathemaster/Harbor Frite 8x14:
(I am presently unemployed so have lots of time to spend on the computer!)

Most Chinese lathes are made by the Siege factory in Shangzou (Sp?)
Siege distribute this particular lathe but they do not manufacture it. It seems the original people to contract for the manufacture of the 8x14 lathe were Lathemaster-round about the year 2000. The factory that makes them is something of a mystery but of the possible sources that I have seen they are ISO9001 certified-which is good!
So we have a lathe being manufactured and only one distributer in N.America-There must have been considerable excess capacity so, and this is conjecture on my part Harbor Freight contracted to take on the excess but signed a "No Compete" clause that protected Lathemaster. Hence the ridiculously inaccurate description in the HF catalog, Then the change a year ago that made the description even more inaccurate (The lathe still has "Dual prismatic beds" according to people who have taken delivery of the lathe in the last couple of weeks-Feb 2009). The serial numbers of the Lathemaster and the Harbor Frieght versions are intermixed!
Neither HF nor Lathemaster will respond to enquires about the above I have been assured.

If you perform the modification to variable speed DC power as described by Will Quiles, and if you are as patient as he was and get the parts for about $120 you will have a machine that is comparible to the Siege C4 which sells for $1600 but you will have paid $449+$120 which is a chunk of saving:thumbsup:


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## Tekno_Cowboy

I'll probably get the 8x12, if I can get it for the $449. Now I just need a place to put it 

I do have one semi-ideal location, a workshop about 5 miles from where I live, but I don't feel like driving that much. That leaves me with the basement (cinder block walls, fiberglass ceiling panels, and no outlets) or the garage (dusty, cold, and no outlets, roof leaks in heavy rain, but little chance of a fire).
Running outlets is no problem, but I'm a little worried about starting a fire in the basement, or getting the lathe caked full of dust and dirt in the garage.

Which would be the better location of the two to locate my lathe?


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## LLCoolBeans

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> I'll probably get the 8x12, if I can get it for the $449. Now I just need a place to put it
> 
> I do have one semi-ideal location, a workshop about 5 miles from where I live, but I don't feel like driving that much. That leaves me with the basement (cinder block walls, fiberglass ceiling panels, and no outlets) or the garage (dusty, cold, and no outlets, roof leaks in heavy rain, but little chance of a fire).
> Running outlets is no problem, but I'm a little worried about starting a fire in the basement, or getting the lathe caked full of dust and dirt in the garage.
> 
> Which would be the better location of the two to locate my lathe?



Basement would be better assuming you can get power down there and it's not too moist. You might want to consider a dehumidifier.


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## Tekno_Cowboy

The only thing I'm really worried about in the basement is starting a fire, primarily the ceiling tiles. The walls and floor are all concrete, but I'm worried about setting the ceiling tiles on fire with the chips.

What could I do to help prevent something like that from happening?


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## LLCoolBeans

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> The only thing I'm really worried about in the basement is starting a fire, primarily the ceiling tiles. The walls and floor are all concrete, but I'm worried about setting the ceiling tiles on fire with the chips.
> 
> What could I do to help prevent something like that from happening?



I don't think you'll be setting the ceiling on fire with the chips. Maybe if you had 5' high ceilings and your ceiling tiles were soaked in gasoline.

Metal chips are heavy and tend to fall down rather than fly up. Also, it's not like grinding where you have sparks flying, chips are hot sure, but I don't think they're hot enough to start a fire, certainly not easily.


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## precisionworks

> That leaves me with the basement (cinder block walls, fiberglass ceiling panels, and no outlets)


That brings back fond memories of my first 'real' shop ... dark, musty, one 60 watt bulb ... but the space was all mine:thumbsup:

If you have a 200 amp service to your home, you can often install a 60 amp, 240 volt breaker & run the wiring to a subpanel in your shop. 60 amps will run a ton of tools, and leave plenty of power for lighting, a space heater or dehumidifier, an air cleaner, etc.

Once you install lots of lights & plenty of outlets, you'll appreciate the basement. I used to work (play?) there until the early morning hours, without disturbing anyone above me. Beats the heck out of most garage shops, the exception being Will's


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## precisionworks

> I'm a little worried about starting a fire in the basement


In 30 years, I had one fire in one basement shop. Ran the woodworking dust collector while grinding steel on the belt grinder ... amazing how far a hot spark will travel, over ten feet in this case. Once the spark hit the fine wood dust in the collector, the shop started to fill with thick, white smoke. I emptied a 5# dry chem extinguisher & ran outside ... went back in after a couple of minutes & nothing was burning, except my eyes.

A basement fire is probably no worse than one in a garage, or anywhere else.


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## Tekno_Cowboy

Thanks for the reassurances 

I actually already have a sub-panel, I just need run a couple outlets to the corner I'm working in. 

Lighting is covered by way of 4 4' florescent shop lights (2 bulbs each). It provides ample lighting for whatever I want to do.

There's a dehumidifier in the summer, the air is already to dry in the winter.


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## FredM

If you want to do Ti or stainless i would get the largest one that you have room for.


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## Tekno_Cowboy

The HF 8x12 is about as big as I can get. Any heavier and I won't be able to get it into my basement


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## Tekno_Cowboy

Just got off the phone with a different HF store. They were very helpful and polite. I now have a 8x12 lathe on order


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## wquiles

precisionworks said:


> ... Beats the heck out of most garage shops, the exception being Will's



Well, I "do" have the space (although the new-to-me knee mill I bought today will push it somewhat to the limit!), but the problem in my garage is that I don't have A/C nor heat 

Will


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## StrikerDown

wquiles said:


> Well, I "do" have the space (although the new-to-me knee mill I bought today will push it somewhat to the limit!), but the problem in my garage is that I don't have A/C nor heat
> 
> Will


 
But it don't get hot or cold in texas! :devil:


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## Tekno_Cowboy

I know I'd have trouble working in the -20 F it gets here in the winter, or the 100+ it can get in the summer


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## LLCoolBeans

wquiles said:


> Well, I "do" have the space (although the new-to-me knee mill I bought today will push it somewhat to the limit!), but the problem in my garage is that I don't have A/C nor heat



Is the garage insulated? If so, just cut a hole and put a big window unit in there. Some have electric heaters built in.


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## precisionworks

> the problem in my garage is that I don't have A/C nor heat


I hear you. We lived near Des Moines, Iowa, when the South Bend was purchased. Since we were planning to move within a couple of years, the lathe stayed in the unheated garage, which would get down to 20F some evenings. Probably doesn't get quite that cold in Texas:laughing:

If you furnace is large enough, you can have a HVAC shop make up ducting to bring heat & A/C into the garage. Or purchase a 'hanging heater', usually run on natural gas, to keep it warm in the winter. Summers aren't so bad, as both overhead doors can be opened.


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## s4biturbo

I recently came across the JHL-610 Hobby Lathe and it looks interesting, has anyone here had any experience with it? They also have a mini mill/drill that looks kind of beefy for its size, but it's not R-8.

I personally am leaning towards the jet 9x20 but this might be something to check out for anyone who is interested in something smaller.

-Todd


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## KC2IXE

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> The HF 8x12 is about as big as I can get. Any heavier and I won't be able to get it into my basement



I don't know, I got a 12x36 Atlas, and a Burke Millrite down my basement steps

(Not my machine - but same basic machine)

http://www1.cedar-rapids.net/tdkmotor/burkemill1.jpg

Some time this year (or next), when my parents house sells, I'll be getting an HLVH down the stairs...


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## Tekno_Cowboy

KC2IXE said:


> I don't know, I got a 12x36 Atlas, and a Burke Millrite down my basement steps
> 
> (Not my machine - but same basic machine)
> 
> http://www1.cedar-rapids.net/tdkmotor/burkemill1.jpg
> 
> Some time this year (or next), when my parents house sells, I'll be getting an HLVH down the stairs...



Wow!

I has narrow stairs though


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## KC2IXE

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> Wow!
> 
> I has narrow stairs though



27" stairs - I actually have to remove things like mouldings to fit a dryer, and had to remove the handle even then. It's tight enough that the pro riggers I hired to take the lathe/mill out of my old house would not TOUCH bringing it down the new stairs - I waited till I had the time, but then again, I learned how to rig machinery back during my college years (I worked for a crane company). Part of the reason I'm going to get an HLVH and NOT a 10EE is that the HLVH will break down into smaller parts to go down the stairs


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## Tekno_Cowboy

I'll have my brother give me some help. His job involves alot of moving things where they don't fit


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## StrikerDown

Oops deleted!:ironic:


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## StrikerDown

Oops deleted!:ironic:


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## choffman

wquiles said:


> A 7x machine makes for a good entry level lathe, and right now Harbor Freight has the 8x14 on special (until Feb 28 or so), for something around $485 or so
> 
> EDIT: the HF special is even cheaper:
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2838593&postcount=67
> 
> Will



My fellow metal munchers,

The deal is even better than that. Check out the last few posts (my first two) in this thread right here:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/171871&page=3

The hf 8x12/14 was purchased for 384 bucks out the door by me, just this morning. If you guys are on the fence, now would be a good time to jump.

Craig


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## wquiles

choffman said:


> My fellow metal munchers,
> 
> The deal is even better than that. Check out the last few posts (my first two) in this thread right here:
> 
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/171871&page=3
> 
> The hf 8x12/14 was purchased for 384 bucks out the door by me, just this morning. If you guys are on the fence, now would be a good time to jump.
> 
> Craig



GREAT deal 

Will


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## Tekno_Cowboy

Wow! Thanks for the tip!

That discount makes up for the money I spent on my Ti D10


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## deebee

I just got back from picking up my HF 8x14.
$449 less the 20% coupon--no questions asked!
One more day of the sale/coupon.


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## Tekno_Cowboy

I ordered mine on Saturday. They had some trouble ringing it up, but the manager managed to get it to work 

With the 1-year replacement it came to $433


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## choffman

Congrats to all...

Let me add a little update... as of this morning I called harbor freight tech support. After speaking with a very friendly TS fella, I was able to special order five extra goodies for the 8x12.

5" 4 jaw chuck............... $58.50
faceplate ( I think 7")...... $12.42
follow rest..................... $16.54
steady rest.................... $17.63
Splash guard.................. $17.37

for A GRAND TOTAL OF.... $122.49

The shipping is free b/c the order through tech support is over $50. The only bad part is that it will take 6-8 weeks for delivery. BUT for the money spent and a little patience, it looks to be a great deal. While talking to him he had to do a lot of searching to find these items. He must have spent close to ten minutes clicking away at his keyboard. In fact, he came across both of the rests and the chuck and at first said he could no longer special order those. He kept checking and eventually came across some #'s that were valid. That brings the grand total for me to about *506 Bucks*... Shipped.

Here is another tidbit that he told me about. The other numbers that crossed referenced with the 8x12 were 42340

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=42340&Submit=Go

and 42806

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=42806&Submit=Go

The first is a cheap looking 1/2" MT2 chuck. The second is a QCTP that includes the chuck and he said WILL work with the 8x12. It might be worth a chance.

At first he said the faceplate can be purchased from the website, part number 29382. He also said that he can't order something, such as the QCTP, if it can be bought off of the website/in-stores. I double checked that part number for the faceplate and it doesn't bring anything up on the website. SO, if they tell you at first that you have to order it yourself, you need to tell the that you are sitting at a computer and the number doesn't show up as a valid item. Otherwise, you'll be forced to call back after the first order has been placed for the first four items, just to place a second order and pay shipping on the faceplate.

I've got to give props to my man over at fignoggle for doing the legwork.

http://www.fignoggle.com/machines/8x12lathe/pricing.htm

Without that writeup, I doubt I would have even thought to look for the 
"extras". Many thanks.

Also, I'm posting as much detail as I can about these transactions. As I was researching all of the different benchtop lathes that were in my price range and experience level, I was hoping to find reviews weren't 1,2 or 3+ years old. Though I couldn't really tell how old fignoggle's is, I am pleased to see the prices for the extra goodies were the same. I know how fast some harbor freight items become obsolete/discontinued or replaced using identicle part #'s but having totally different products. In fact, I'm eager to see if the ways on the lathe I bought have the "double prizmatic design". As referenced in the most recent update at this site:

http://www.annisquamgranite.com/8x12ReviewPg1.htm

I'll admit that that reveiw had A LOT to do with my decision when picking a lathe. I don't think I'm going to care if it doesn't have DPD. I'll just hope that it won't affect the quality much/if any if the design has change. As far as the yahoo groups are conserned, I just don't have the time to read through 15000+ posts to weed out some basic information to base a decision on. So I hope that my/our current posts can help some folks, one way or the other, to come to a decision on what's best for their home workshop. I'm sure I'll eventually make my way through all those yahoo posts, someday.

Let me also just take a moment to say that I am in NO WAY affiliated with anyone, anywhere, that sells any kind of machinery. I'm just the kind of person that agonizes, even obsesses with any "major" tool/otherwise investment. I just want to share my experience with others that may have the same "affliction" that keeps me from sleeping once I've decided I'm going to buy something.

Craig


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## jason 77

Would the "4" x 5" Micro Lathe" be any good or is it too small?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=95012

I saw it yesterday at HF for 299.00... is that the sale price or is there a even cheaper price for it?


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## deebee

Choffman, well done!
I have intended following up on the parts mentioned by 'fignogle' but you beat me to it.
Any chance you could post the item numbers for all these parts or, give us the contact info for the person you spoke to? I would like to order all of these items too.
I have been in touch with Mal at Annisquamgranite.com and he tells me that people have contacted him in the past week and said they have received lathes that are identical to the Lathemaster (except for color) from HF in the past week. Mine is sitting in the back of my station wagon waiting for 3 friends to arrive so we can get it out!
David B


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## Tekno_Cowboy

If you can get in today, you should be able to get the much better 8x12 for around $380. 

The 4x5 looks like it would be too small to do anything flashlight related, but I could be wrong. :shrug:


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## deebee

I just unloaded mine-we managed with just two of us. (But it is heavy!)
It is the same as a Lathemaster-hardened dual prismatic ways etc.
I am VERY impressed with the quality of this thing


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## LLCoolBeans

jason 77 said:


> Would the "4" x 5" Micro Lathe" be any good or is it too small?



No, the micro lathe cuts on only 2 axies and does not cut threads at all.

Although it's extremely small size would limit you, small is not really the main issue here, it's reduced functionality.


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## darkzero

Thanks to everyone for this thread! I saw this last night & went to today to purchase one. $449 as listed in the sale flyer plus the the 20% off! $385 out the door & I pick it up in a week or so.


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## choffman

darkzero said:


> Thanks to everyone for this thread! I saw this last night & went to today to purchase one. $449 as listed in the sale flyer plus the the 20% off! $385 out the door & I pick it up in a week or so.




Awesome


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## choffman

deebee said:


> Choffman, well done!
> I have intended following up on the parts mentioned by 'fignogle' but you beat me to it.
> Any chance you could post the item numbers for all these parts or, give us the contact info for the person you spoke to? I would like to order all of these items too.
> I have been in touch with Mal at Annisquamgranite.com and he tells me that people have contacted him in the past week and said they have received lathes that are identical to the Lathemaster (except for color) from HF in the past week. Mine is sitting in the back of my station wagon waiting for 3 friends to arrive so we can get it out!
> David B




I specifically recall him saying that these parts don't have SKU #'s. It echoes exactly what was mentioned over at fignoggle. The number I called is just the generic hf tech support #: 1-888-299-3427

I'll remember your face for 25 years but I'll forget your name 25 seconds after you introduce yourself to me. So, sorry, I can't tell you which dude I talked to. I'm jealous that you already have yours home. 

C


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## choffman

deebee said:


> I just unloaded mine-we managed with just two of us. (But it is heavy!)
> It is the same as a Lathemaster-hardened dual prismatic ways etc.
> I am VERY impressed with the quality of this thing




That's very good news. Now my heart is racing again. Come ooooooooooon Thursday.

C


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## LLCoolBeans

Called HF this morning and verified that my lathe was delivered and ready for pickup. The employee I spoke to did a "Physical check". 

Stopped by after work to find out that there was a "paperwork glitch". Lathe won't be in until this Friday.

 :sigh:


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## StrikerDown

I just love that kind of employee... Physical check, yea turn head and cough... physical done! Minimum wage attention to detail:thinking:


----------



## LLCoolBeans

Question...

Does the 8x12 lathe come with a steady rest?

And what about a follower rest, face plate and/or lathe dog?

I thought that stuff was standard equipment for any lathe, but the HF product description just says "Two dead centers?". And what does the question mark mean exactly? Maybe it will come with two dead centers? The question mark makes it seem like a gamble.


----------



## deebee

That will depend on whether your cup is half full or half empty....


----------



## StrikerDown

Most of the mini lathes don't come with those items. By the time you add them you are real close to the cost of a 9X20"


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

StrikerDown said:


> ..By the time you add them you are real close to the cost of a 9X20"


Unless you managed to get one for a really nice price


----------



## deebee

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> Unless you managed to get one for a really nice price



And you get a much better lathe!!

(read review at annisquamgranite.com)


----------



## StrikerDown

The 8X12 is heavier and probably more rigid and is a steel at the sale price!

Unless you need a larger lathe!


----------



## LLCoolBeans

Just FYI, littlemachineshop.com carries 5" chucks and adapters to fit the 8x12 lathes. The 5" 4-jaw I ordered has a 30 mm (1.18") through bore, that will make all the difference in the world if you are holding 1" workpieces.


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

LLCoolBeans said:


> Just FYI, littlemachineshop.com carries 5" chucks and adapters to fit the 8x12 lathes. The 5" 4-jaw I ordered has a 30 mm (1.18") through bore, that will make all the difference in the world if you are holding 1" workpieces.




Thanks for the tip!


----------



## wquiles

LLCoolBeans said:


> Just FYI, littlemachineshop.com carries 5" chucks and adapters to fit the 8x12 lathes. The 5" 4-jaw I ordered has a 30 mm (1.18") through bore, that will make all the difference in the world if you are holding 1" workpieces.



+1. Having the space inside the chuck is a HUGE advantage!

And you can scale this point to larger pieces, like when you want to work on "D" mags. Once you go to the 6" chucks, you start going past the roughtly 1 and 1/2 " diameter, so you can get more of the body inside the chuck, which gives you a much sturdier and stiff setup than having the body "hang out". To illustrate, this is how I cut threads on "D" mags:












Will


----------



## darkzero

darkzero said:


> Thanks to everyone for this thread! I saw this last night & went to today to purchase one. $449 as listed in the sale flyer plus the the 20% off! $385 out the door & I pick it up in a week or so.


 
Got mine home today! :twothumbs

Picked it up from HF's main warehouse in Camarillo. Just my luck, all the male employees were out sick when I got there. None of the women in the store were able to pick it up. Didn't stop me though. They kindly let me in the back & I got it onto a pallet jack. The lady wasn't very good at maneuvering the pallet jack so I took over & squeezed through the isles with the help of the ladies clearing items out the way. Once I got to my truck I waited for a customer to arrive & one of them kindly helped me get it onto the truck. 

I'm so grateful for the help I got & again for those who posted the awsome deal for this! Thank you again!

Too bad I won't be able to even touch it for a couple weeks but at least I've got it home!


----------



## Mirage_Man

darkzero said:


> Got mine home today! :twothumbs
> 
> Picked it up from HF's main warehouse in Camarillo. Just my luck, all the male employees were out sick when I got there. None of the women in the store were able to pick it up. Didn't stop me though. They kindly let me in the back & I got it onto a pallet jack. The lady wasn't very good at maneuvering the pallet jack so I took over & squeezed through the isles with the help of the ladies clearing items out the way. Once I got to my truck I waited for a customer to arrive & one of them kindly helped me get it onto the truck.
> 
> I'm so grateful for the help I got & again for those who posted the awsome deal for this! Thank you again!
> 
> Too bad I won't be able to even touch it for a couple weeks but at least I've got it home!



Will, I am so happy for you that you got one of these. Seeing what you've been able to do without one was unbelievable. Now that you have a lathe watch out CPF! :twothumbs


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

darkzero said:


> Picked it up from HF's main warehouse in Camarillo. Just my luck, all the male employees were out sick when I got there. None of the women in the store were able to pick it up.



Sounds like you need some redneck women where you're at 

There's plenty here in MN :thumbsup:


----------



## choffman

Well I got it home and uncrated. She's a beaut. The crate had no signs of damage on the outside and the lathe looks pristine. I rarely buy anything sight unseen, but I'm very happy with this machine. It is a monster compared to the 7x12 I saw in the store.

Mine does in fact have the prismatic ways on both sides and the manual that came with it clearly shows the back way being flat. The date stamped on the front indicates my lathe was made in May 07, FWIW. Now I just need to clear a nice big spot on the bench and break her down for a good cleaning and once over.

For those readers who might have missed the last 20% off coupon here's a new one, good until the 6th of March:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/emails/809/RetailZ/809_retailz.html

I'm looking forward to the weekend.


----------



## LLCoolBeans

Mine is supposed to be in today, we'll see if there is another "paperwork glitch".


----------



## wquiles

Mirage_Man said:


> Will, I am so happy for you that you got one of these. Seeing what you've been able to do without one was unbelievable. Now that you have a lathe watch out CPF! :twothumbs



+1 

Simply outstanding work, and with no lathe. Amazing :wave:

Will


----------



## deebee

Mine is also dated 07....
I have now scanned through most of the Lathemaster group posts on Yahoo and it seems that potential purchasers of Lathemaster 8x14s sometimes have to wait months for the machines to come from China. They haven't responded to my request to join the group--I don't think they want to hear from any more people with HF 8x12s! And I can't say I blame them


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

Since I need to put in an outlet for my lathe, I was wondering if someone could tell me what kind of circuit I'm going to need. 
I'd also like to run a 2nd outlet on the same circuit for my Soldering Iron and Dremel.

Will a 15A circuit be enough, or will I need a 20A? Also, what would be the maximum breaker I could run the lathe on?


----------



## LLCoolBeans

So, the Lathemaster 8x14 is the same exact machine as the HF 8x12? Or does the Lathemaster actually give you an extra 2" between centers?


----------



## deebee

They are identical lathes apparently. HF has a different way of measuring but also they may have a 'no compete' agreement with either Lathemaster or the manufacturers of the lathe and changed the description for that reason.
Strongly suggest you spend 1/2 an hour reading the review at http://www.annisquamgranite.com/8x12ReviewPg1.htm
http://www.annisquamgranite.com/8x12ReviewPg1.htm
It seems you can ignore the warning-in blue- at the beginning of the review-it seems to be more of HFs 'no compete' arrangement.


----------



## wquiles

LLCoolBeans said:


> So, the Lathemaster 8x14 is the same exact machine as the HF 8x12? Or does the Lathemaster actually give you an extra 2" between centers?



Same identical machine - they are both 14" 

Will


----------



## darkzero

Mirage_Man said:


> Will, I am so happy for you that you got one of these. Seeing what you've been able to do without one was unbelievable. Now that you have a lathe watch out CPF! :twothumbs


 


wquiles said:


> +1
> 
> Simply outstanding work, and with no lathe. Amazing :wave:
> 
> Will


 
Thanks fellas. 

But I think it will take me a long time to learn how to use it but I'm eager to learn. I envy both of you two's excellent work! :twothumbs :wave:


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

darkzero said:


> I envy both of you two's excellent work! :twothumbs :wave:



+1 

It's going to take me a bit to remember how to use a lathe properly myself. (Makes me wish I'd paid less attention to the girls in shop class, and more attention to the teacher )


----------



## precisionworks

> what would be the maximum breaker I could run the lathe on?


Circuit breakers, properly called Molded Case Circuit Breakers (MCCB) are conductor protection devices. The MCCB is sized to protect the conductor (wire) that runs from the breaker panel to the outlet.

For 120v circuits:

#14 AWG wire is protected by a 15a MCCB.

#12 AWG wire is protected by a 20a MCCB.

If a machine trips a 15a breaker, you cannot replace that with a 20a breaker unless you also replace the wiring from the breaker to the outlet. Many older homes have nothing but 15a breakers, as appliances were fewer & smaller in days gone by.



> I need to put in an outlet for my lathe


The cost of a 20a MCCB and #12 wire is hardly more than the cost of a 15a MCCB & #14 wire. You'll never regret installing the larger circuit. You can run small machines on a large circuit, but you can't run large machines on a small circuit:thumbsup:


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

Thanks, I just wanted to be sure this wasn't a touchy motor that couldn't handle a 20A circuit.

Hehe, my house uses fuses 
Until I moved in, my grandparents had 30A fuses in all the sockets, all on 14GA wire  
Needless to say, I've corrected this 

My main reason for asking is because of my dad's old hay elevator. This was a cobbled together piece of junk, but it was effective. The only problem was, we kept blowing the motor, and couldn't figure out why. After the 3rd rebuild by the local repairman, he asked us how many amp circuit the motor was on. When we answered 20A, he pointed out that the motor was only rated for a 15A circuit, and when it was overloaded, instead of blowing a fuse or tripping the breaker, it would fry.

Looks like I have some shopping to do :naughty:


----------



## deebee

It may be off topic, but I would love to see some photos of this place!


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

Which place?



deebee said:


> It may be off topic, but I would love to see some photos of this place!


----------



## choffman

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> Since I need to put in an outlet for my lathe, I was wondering if someone could tell me what kind of circuit I'm going to need.
> I'd also like to run a 2nd outlet on the same circuit for my Soldering Iron and Dremel.
> 
> Will a 15A circuit be enough, or will I need a 20A? Also, what would be the maximum breaker I could run the lathe on?




Well as it turns out I've been a licensed electrician for almost 20 years now, so I'll give you the quick answer.

You need a 20A breaker, connected with 12 gauge wire, connected to an receptacle that is rated for 20A. You'll know for sure that the receptacle is rated for twenty amps if the "neutral slot" looks like a sideways "T". Here:

http://www.fruitridgetools.com/stor...aspx?sfid=136763&i=244370776&mpid=8171&dfid=1

The receptacle will only be rated for 15A if the outlet looks like this:

http://www.fruitridgetools.com/stor...temDetail.aspx?sfid=136763&i=192687956&c=7735


Longer version.... The nameplate rating on my lathe says that it draws 16A. For the lathe to operate at "continuous duty", (which means that it might run at full load 100% of the time for three hours straight) you need to de-rate the circuit ampacity (20A) by 80%. 20A*.8=16A which works out perfect. In other words, a dedicated 20A breaker is exactly what you want to hook the lathe up to, no more, no less. 

Craig


EDIT: I just saw that precisionworks beat me to it. He is right on the money. The only thing I added of any value is to make sure you buy a receptacle rated for 20 Amps to hook up to the new circuit.


----------



## choffman

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> After the 3rd rebuild by the local repairman, he asked us how many amp circuit the motor was on. When we answered 20A, he pointed out that the motor was only rated for a 15A circuit, and when it was overloaded, instead of blowing a fuse or tripping the breaker, it would fry.



That's a perfect example of how a well meaning person thinking, more power is better, can cost themselves a bunch of money. It's a good thing the repairman pointed that out for you guys. 

Craig


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

choffman said:


> Longer version.... The nameplate rating on my lathe says that it draws 16A. For the lathe to operate at "continuous duty", (which means that it might run at full load 100% of the time for three hours straight) you need to de-rate the circuit ampacity (20A) by 80%. 20A*.8=16A which works out perfect. In other words, a dedicated 20A breaker is exactly what you want to hook the lathe up to, no more, no less.



This was exactly the piece of info I needed :Happy14:

My grandpa has been an electrician for over 40 years now. He's been teaching me the basics since I was about 5 

Thanks precisionworks and choffman!
That should be helpful info for anyone wanting to use one of these lathes.


----------



## precisionworks

There are lots of people who think a fuse (or a MCCB) is designed for motor protection. *NOT!*

Conductor protection is the only function of a fuse or MCCB. This is well covered in the NEC (National Electrical Code), as it has been for close to 100 years. Motor protection is a separate function that can be handled many different ways:

Fuses in the motor wiring circuit (inexpensive)

Magnetic motor starter with heaters sized for the motor load (seen often in commercial machinery)

Solid state overloads, which replace the heaters & bimetal switches with current sensing devices, so they are longer lasting.

Here's one source I've used for small fuses & fuse holders, and for machine mounted MCCBs:

http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.17070/.f

They also have a nice selection of overloads at decent prices:

http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.11600/.f

You really need to consider adding some type of motor protection. Motors can & will kill themselves long before a 20a breaker even knows there's a 
problem


----------



## LLCoolBeans

Question...

Today's project is getting the 8x12 mounted, cleaned and lubed.

Any tips on this? What exactly needs to be cleaned? Everything? How far do I need to dissasemble it to clean it properly? Completely disassembled?

What solvent or degreaser do you recommend for removing the ChiComsmoline? Break cleaner? Alcohol? Soap and water? Simple green?

And lube? What sort of oil and grease should I be using?


----------



## precisionworks

> Brake cleaner? Alcohol? Soap and water? Simple green?


Brake cleaner is always a good choice for unknown grease, but be careful around painted surfaces as some paints will dissolve easily. Castrol Super Clean is a good 'soaking' cleaner, but is caustic & will eat away or dissolve aluminum parts.


----------



## deebee

I would suggest being very careful with brake clean--it is very toxic and will strip paint of pretty quickly too!! I have a friend who was partially paralysed from the waist down after over use of brake clean-it took months for him to recover!!
The much maligned WD40 seems to work well at cleaning my 8x14 off.


----------



## will

I think that kerosene would work. It is actually a light oil ( number 1 ) Stay away from brake cleaner, carb cleaner, Those will both remove paint. 

Paint thinner might also work - the mineral spirits type.


----------



## deebee

The best description I have found for dismantling these lathes is this:
http://www.fignoggle.com/machines/8x12lathe/howTo.htm


----------



## LLCoolBeans

Got it all mounted, cleaned and lubed.

I ended up using Greased Lightning, which is a water based degreaser similar to simple green or super clean. I found it works better than Simple Green, maybe not quite as good as Super Clean, but it's not nearly as fumy so I like it better.

The manual is terrible. I thought the manual for my mini mill was bad, this one takes the suck to a whole new level. Does lathemaster offer manuals for the 8x14? I wonder if theirs is any better. I eventually figured out how to switch gears for different feed rates.

Stock tool holder is a joke. Man am I glad I ordered the quick change tool post. I thought the quick change tool post was a luxury, as it turns out it's an absolute necessity. The stock tool holder has no mechanism for centering the tool bit. You have to actually stack shims underneath the tool bit to achieve center. 

There was a problem with my threading indicator. The dial was not concentric with it's shaft and it was rubbing badly on the housing. This was causing the gear to slip threads on the lead screw, among other problems. Luckily that was easy to fix, now that I have a lathe.  Chucked it up in the 4-Jaw, centered off the shaft and shaved about 5-10 thou off the OD of the dial, just until there was no more interrupted cut and both shaft and dial were concentric. Works perfectly now.


----------



## StrikerDown

Make sure you wipe down the bare metal with a light coat of oil right away after cleaning up your new toy!

The only problem using a water based degreaser is that you are putting water on bare metal (Cast Iron) and since water based degreasers are often quite effective at, well, degreasing, you will be leaving the metal wet and exposed to the air. Air and water on iron = rust if you do not oil the surface pretty soon after degreasing. 

Some iron if damp with no oil or grease protecting them will begin to oxidize immediately and over night they will be quite orange with rust (oxidation):devil:

Where are the pictures?


----------



## will

Be careful with Greased Lightning - It will remove the anodize on any aluminum. Simple Green will not. 
I use a small paint brush and brush on Kerosene to clean up - that leaves a thin oil covering.


If the machine is similar to a Grizzly machine, you can go to their web site and download their manual ( PDF File )


----------



## 65535

I would degrease then hit the area with alcohol or acetone, then grease immediately, mineral oil works well for a quick and dirty anti rust coat. But for use a stronger lube is better.


----------



## wquiles

LLCoolBeans said:


> Luckily that was easy to fix, now that I have a lathe.



+1 - It is cool to have a tool that can help with fixing things, even if it is the lathe itself 

Will


----------



## LLCoolBeans

I rinsed and oiled everything the greased lightning touched. Relax.


----------



## LLCoolBeans

I can't find my 60degree center gauge. I'm sure I have one and it's somewhere in this house, but I'm not finding it. Dang, I could have easily ordered one last week. If I had realized it was missing yesterday, I could have even procured one in town. Now that it's Sunday, I'm sort of dead in the water. Dang. Where is that thing?!


----------



## LLCoolBeans

Striker, here's the photos...


----------



## StrikerDown

That looks Cool Beans! 

The QCTP is so much nicer than the turret. Mine was a PITA to get the tool shimmed to center.

Looks like the chip pan is perfect also!

Have fun!


----------



## gadget_lover

If you are using the original turret style tool holder, you should store the appropriate shims with the tools. That way the next time you load it up it shims to the same height without fuss.

Daniel


----------



## deebee

Hi LLCoolbeans: Is that pan a 36x24? Where and how much?


----------



## LLCoolBeans

deebee said:


> Hi LLCoolbeans: Is that pan a 36x24? Where and how much?



I'm not sure of the exact dimensions, but I found it at the local ACE hardware. It's an automotive drip pan. I think it was about $12.00.


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

I see you've made some modifications from stock, are the 4-jaw, QCTP, and threading dial the only things you changed?


----------



## LLCoolBeans

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> I see you've made some modifications from stock, are the 4-jaw, QCTP, and threading dial the only things you changed?



So far. That's a 5" 4-jaw BTW. If you are going through the trouble and expense of replacing the stock 3-jaw, go for the 5" 4-Jaw and adapter plate.


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

I think I'll play around with it for a little while before doing any upgrades. I like to learn things from the ground up.


----------



## choffman

precisionworks said:


> There are lots of people who think a fuse (or a MCCB) is designed for motor protection. *NOT!*
> 
> Conductor protection is the only function of a fuse or MCCB. This is well covered in the NEC (National Electrical Code), as it has been for close to 100 years. Motor protection is a separate function that can be handled many different ways:
> 
> Fuses in the motor wiring circuit (inexpensive)
> 
> Magnetic motor starter with heaters sized for the motor load (seen often in commercial machinery)
> 
> Solid state overloads, which replace the heaters & bimetal switches with current sensing devices, so they are longer lasting.
> 
> Here's one source I've used for small fuses & fuse holders, and for machine mounted MCCBs:
> 
> http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.17070/.f
> 
> They also have a nice selection of overloads at decent prices:
> 
> http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.11600/.f
> 
> You really need to consider adding some type of motor protection. Motors can & will kill themselves long before a 20a breaker even knows there's a
> problem



You are absolutely right, branch circuit protection (breakers/fuses in the panel) and motor overload protection are two different animals. If a motor is rated for 6A or more (like the 8x12 @16A), overloads of some sort are required. Most motors 1HP or less have some sort if integral overload protection built into them, but in this case we are talking about made in China. To get power to the lathe a 20A breaker and 12AWG wiring is needed. To protect the motor from overload, overloads are needed if the motor doesn't have integral overload protection in it. You clearly have some experience with this (electrician/engineer?).

I haven't been able to tear down the lathe and check it over yet because I reached out to help a friend who started falling from a loading dock and got my bicep ripped off of my shoulder over the weekend. :scowl:

So I don't know if the motor has integral protection or not and it looks like it's going to be 5-6 weeks before I get to play with my new toy now. GRRRRRRRRRR

C-


----------



## precisionworks

> You clearly have some experience with this (electrician/engineer?).


TYVM

I studied instrumentation technology in school, and work in a factory where my responsibilities include both electrical wiring & upgrades (nothing above 480v 3-phase), as well as electronic process controls. My home shop has more VFD's than the factory has ...

Sounds like you've also done this before.


----------



## deebee

choffman said:


> I haven't been able to tear down the lathe and check it over yet because I reached out to help a friend who started falling from a loading dock and got my bicep ripped off of my shoulder over the weekend. :scowl:
> C-



OUCH!
Good deeds never go unpunished... Hope you have a speedy recovery


----------



## 65535

If you have a large circuit sporting 20A+ and want to run a small unprotected motor you probably should just install a circuit breaker near the motor. Gives you a good cuttoff point too.


----------



## Anglepoise

I ran a 220 line from my main panel to a very small, 4 breaker sub panel mounted within easy reach when operating the lathe. I have the lathe on its own 220 breaker and 2, 110 volt breakers for other items.
All breakers are shut off when lathe is not in use and I like the extra protection so no one ( children ? ) can accidentally start the lathe with its tumbler switch.


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

choffman said:


> You are absolutely right, branch circuit protection (breakers/fuses in the panel) and motor overload protection are two different animals. If a motor is rated for 6A or more (like the 8x12 @16A), overloads of some sort are required. Most motors 1HP or less have some sort if integral overload protection built into them, but in this case we are talking about made in China. To get power to the lathe a 20A breaker and 12AWG wiring is needed. To protect the motor from overload, overloads are needed if the motor doesn't have integral overload protection in it. You clearly have some experience with this (electrician/engineer?).
> 
> I haven't been able to tear down the lathe and check it over yet because I reached out to help a friend who started falling from a loading dock and got my bicep ripped off of my shoulder over the weekend. :scowl:
> 
> So I don't know if the motor has integral protection or not and it looks like it's going to be 5-6 weeks before I get to play with my new toy now. GRRRRRRRRRR
> 
> C-




I ran a line from my sub-panel to my work area. It's 12/2 wire and a 20A breaker. I put in 2 outlets, one at my workbench and one for my lathe. I would have run these separately, but since I will only be using one _or_ the other, I didn't see a reason to run the extra line. At some point I may put a mill down there too, in which case I'll be doing some more significant re-wiring of the house as well.

My question is: what extra motor protection should I have? (preferably cheap)


----------



## choffman

deebee said:


> Hope you have a speedy recovery



Thanks, me too.




Tekno_Cowboy said:


> My question is: what extra motor protection should I have? (preferably cheap)



Well, maybe we don't need anything at all. If the motor has integral overload protection, then nothing is needed (most if not all 1hp or less "quality" motors have it). Just plug it in and fire it up. I can't hardly move my left arm so taking mine apart is not gonna happen anytime soon.

I recall seeing several posts in the yahoo lathemaster forums about motors going/being bad and needing to be replaced. It may very well have something to do with the fact that these M.I.C. motors don't have overloads. Even if they do, it wouldn't hurt a thing to have another set protecting the motor, but you need to have access to the motors nameplate to get the info needed to size them. I walked down to the shop and looked at mine, but I couldn't see the nameplate. If it even has one.

How about you precisionworks? Do you have an 8x12 and have you already done this? You might be able to save everyone a little legwork if you don't mind sharing your findings. Or does anyone have their lathe taken apart enough to read the info on the nameplate?

C-

Quick note on overloads. They are kinda like little circuit breakers that are dialed in to a very precise amp range to protect the motor. e.g. If you had a motor that pulls 12.4 amps there is probably an overload that trips in the 12.25-12.6 amp range. (totally pulling that out of thin air) Just to give you an example of what we are talking about. Here is a general use guide from mcmaster carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7603kac/=uk8ym

Copied from mcmaster carr catalog:

*Overload Protection— *Monitors the current flowing to a motor and opens the circuit if the current exceeds the full-load current rating. The full-load current rating is the current the motor is expected to continuously draw under normal (full-load) conditions. This rating is often found on the motor's faceplate. 
_Overload heater elements _are an older technology and are not adjustable. You must choose a heater element that most closely matches your motor's full-load current rating.
_Overload relays _use solid-state technology and are adjustable. Your motor's full-load current rating should fall within the range of the motor starter's overload current range.


Faceplate=nameplate


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

Looks like nested quotes aren't allowed here. I was trying to get all of post #107 into my last post.

Thanks for the info. It looks like I need to get out my electrical books, and have a good read. It's amazing how much you can forget in a very short time 

I'm picking up my lathe in the morning, so I should be able to take a few pictures of the face/name plate, and some close-ups of the rest of the lathe.

Oh, and +1 on a speedy recovery


----------



## precisionworks

> How about you precisionworks? Do you have an 8x12 and have you already done this?


My lathe is a South Bend 10-K (Light Ten) ... the motor is a wimpy 1/2 hp Baldor with the red, pop up overload button. When it gets replaced (soon) with a 3 hp motor, the overload function will be handled by the VFD. Under the NEC, a VFD is an approved overload device.

If you need a small contactor/overload, the Teco N Series is not expensive, and has a dial to adjust amperage:

http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.12/.f

You first select the appropriate contactor, then add the correct overload. The small pins sticking out of the overload engage slots on the contactor terminal strip.


----------



## will

I use my tail stock fairly often. The original set up required a wrench to tighten it to the bed. On a small machine it always seemed that it required a lot of time to tighten and loosen it. I installed a TailStock cam lock kit. This small, inexpensive upgrade, is worth it's weight in gold. 

Little Machine shop has these for the 7x10 lathes

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2018&category=1070498684


----------



## LLCoolBeans

will said:


> I use my tail stock fairly often. The original set up required a wrench to tighten it to the bed. On a small machine it always seemed that it required a lot of time to tighten and loosen it. I installed a TailStock cam lock kit. This small, inexpensive upgrade, is worth it's weight in gold.
> 
> Little Machine shop has these for the 7x10 lathes
> 
> http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2018&category=1070498684



Oh man, 7x lathes only, DANG! I would love this for my 8x.


----------



## gadget_lover

It's really a simple concept, easily adapted to any lathe.

Looking at the 8x12 design, the LMS kit should work there too. 

You might need to replace the clamping plate that comes with your tailstock with one that has the right threads to match the "cam lock socket". That would entail drilling a hole in a small piece of steel and sticking a bolt through it.

There are sites that have plans for doing that mod without a kit.

I too, installed it on my lathe. It's a mod that is well worth the $29.

Daniel


----------



## iknowjack

You guys have inspired me.

No more flashlight splurging, 'till I buy a LATHE! :devil:

just hope that 8X12 doesn't go back up to 599.99 when I buy one.


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

Gotta keep an eye on the stores, and ask them the "real" price. The book in the store I went to didn't show the sale price, it showed the regular price.


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

I got my lathe today 
It's in the basement ready to be cleaned up and set up. All that's left to do is make a bench to put it on.

There will be loads of pics!


----------



## choffman

I don't know how many of you guys have a mill or if you use edge finders or not, but here's a deal.

http://www.newark.com/starrett/827a/no-827-827m-series-edge-finders/dp/85K7140?_requestid=79820

They are $6.25 regularly 21 Bucks. Right around 20 Bucks everywhere else I looked on the net. Shipping to me was about 5 bucks. I couldn't help myself, I bought four of them. They only have 16 left.

Here's another deal I found, at amazon no less....

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CSBNY/?tag=cpf0b6-20

60 Bucks

Good news from the doc. They don't need to operate on my arm. They said that this is a common injury in "middle aged" people and the operation risks aren't worth it. I think the "middle aged" comment hurt more than ripping the bicep from my shoulder. They said I'll be back inaction in 3 to 4 weeks, instead of 7 to 8 weeks with surgery. Arm looks weird with the muscle out of place but they said it will reattach itself and I probably wont even see 5% loss of strength in only one range of motion. It's called "popeye displacement" or something like that. I looked it up on the net because I thought the doc was full of sh!t. Seems like it's legit. Weird.

So... I ran over to HF and bought the engine lift I've been threatening to buy for years and now the lathe is up on the work bench and getting cleaned off. Oh, here's another deal for you fellas.

Get a 20% off any single item by signing up for email. This works even if you are currently signed up. The following URL printed on my receipt the other day as well as the guy in front of me. It's good until May 31 09. You can use it over and over again just by making return trips. 

http://www.harborfreight22.com/save/

Lastly, I was wrong about the current (amps) my lathe pulls. I don't know where I got 16A from, pain killers from the ER I reckon. I got a look at the nameplate on the motor and it says 8.8A. You could easily run this off of a 15A breaker with 14AWG wire. The cost difference is so small though that it's really not worth it if you are going through the trouble of adding a circuit.

C-


EDIT:
Oops, sorry. I just paid 60 Bucks with free shipping on that level. It looks like someone caught it and it's gone back up to 104. Dang I knew I should have bought two of them at that price.


----------



## precisionworks

> They are $6.25 regularly 21 Bucks


When using collets in the mill, they are the preferred edge finder because of the single end design. If you try to use a double end model, the collet will stretch the spring when withdrawing the edgefinder.

Nobody discounts Starrett

16 still left in stock.


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

Those look like some really nice deals, but that particular post might be better in the Good Deals sticky in this subforum. Edit: Never mind, the tread got closed due to ebay coupons. 

Glad to hear your recovery will be speedier than originally thought :Happy14:

I already have a 20A circuit run, so I won't worry about running another one. I almost forgot GFCI protection, but a quick run to the toolbox fixed that  

If anyone who has one of these gets a chance, could you look and see if the motor has built-in protection?



choffman said:


> I don't know how many of you guys have a mill or if you use edge finders or not, but here's a deal.
> 
> http://www.newark.com/starrett/827a/no-827-827m-series-edge-finders/dp/85K7140?_requestid=79820
> 
> They are $6.25 regularly 21 Bucks. Right around 20 Bucks everywhere else I looked on the net. Shipping to me was about 5 bucks. I couldn't help myself, I bought four of them. They only have 16 left.
> 
> Here's another deal I found, at amazon no less....
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CSBNY/?tag=cpf0b6-20
> 
> 60 Bucks
> 
> Good news from the doc. They don't need to operate on my arm. They said that this is a common injury in "middle aged" people and the operation risks aren't worth it. I think the "middle aged" comment hurt more than ripping the bicep from my shoulder. They said I'll be back inaction in 3 to 4 weeks, instead of 7 to 8 weeks with surgery. Arm looks weird with the muscle out of place but they said it will reattach itself and I probably wont even see 5% loss of strength in only one range of motion. It's called "popeye displacement" or something like that. I looked it up on the net because I thought the doc was full of sh!t. Seems like it's legit. Weird.
> 
> So... I ran over to HF and bought the engine lift I've been threatening to buy for years and now the lathe is up on the work bench and getting cleaned off. Oh, here's another deal for you fellas.
> 
> Get a 20% off any single item by signing up for email. This works even if you are currently signed up. The following URL printed on my receipt the other day as well as the guy in front of me. It's good until May 31 09. You can use it over and over again just by making return trips.
> 
> http://www.harborfreight22.com/save/
> 
> Lastly, I was wrong about the current (amps) my lathe pulls. I don't know where I got 16A from, pain killers from the ER I reckon. I got a look at the nameplate on the motor and it says 8.8A. You could easily run this off of a 15A breaker with 14AWG wire. The cost difference is so small though that it's really not worth it if you are going through the trouble of adding a circuit.
> 
> C-
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> Oops, sorry. I just paid 60 Bucks with free shipping on that level. It looks like someone caught it and it's gone back up to 104. Dang I knew I should have bought two of them at that price.


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

Well, I got the outside parts of my lathe cleaned up using Stoddard Solvent. The solvent took the grease right off 

I put a light coat of Vactra 2 on all surfaces, and gave a shot to all the oil points. The lathe controls work much smoother now.

I know the gears and pulleys will need cleaning and the gears will need some gear oil, but what else should be cleaned? Should anything else be taken apart, cleaned, and oiled?


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

I made the mistake of picking up 1/4" cutters, to find that they don't quite fit in the tool post.

What size tooling should I be using with the stock tool post?

Is there a "starter kit" of some sort that works well with the HF 8x12?


----------



## LLCoolBeans

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> I made the mistake of picking up 1/4" cutters, to find that they don't quite fit in the tool post.
> 
> What size tooling should I be using with the stock tool post?
> 
> Is there a "starter kit" of some sort that works well with the HF 8x12?



You should be able to get 1/4" bits to work. It's not easy using any size bits in that medieval torture device. You should be able to shim around to get it to work though. Did you try foul language?

Seriously though, you need this...
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2713&category=-139540609

It's worth every penny and then some. The day you get it home and install it, is the day you will be kicking yourself for not ordering it sooner. Guaranteed.


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

Foul language just made it laugh at me.

I plan to get one, once I've got steady income again. (aka: a job) I need something to hold me over til then...


----------



## darkzero

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> Is there a "starter kit" of some sort that works well with the HF 8x12?


 
Don't listen to me cause I don't know jack in this area but LMS does sell a starter kit that includes the QCTP tha LLCoolBeans mentioned. Great price for the kit too. http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3534&category=1070498684

I took Will's advice & ordered the QCTP Set from Lathemasters which was $169 alone. So the kit from LMS for $160 is an awsome price!


----------



## LLCoolBeans

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> I plan to get one, once I've got steady income again. (aka: a job) I need something to hold me over til then...



Understood.

In that case, I'm sure we can get you up and running with the iron maiden and your 1/4" tool bits.

What exactly is the trouble you are having with those bits?


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

That looks like a great kit, my problem is that I don't have $160 to spend right now, though I suppose I could sell a couple of lights if I had to. 

I'm hoping to find a slightly cheaper kit to hold me over for a month or two right now.


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

LLCoolBeans said:


> Understood.
> 
> In that case, I'm sure we can get you up and running with the iron maiden and your 1/4" tool bits.
> 
> What exactly is the trouble you are having with those bits?



They fit inside the set screws, making it impossible to properly tighten them down. I still have the receipts, so I'll be returning them to get funds for better tooling.


----------



## LLCoolBeans

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> They fit inside the set screws, making it impossible to properly tighten them down.



That shouldn't be too much of an issue. Have you tried stacking another bit next to the one you are trying to use? You need to find a way take up the space and get the bit you want to use directly under the clamp screws. Another 1/4" tool bit or two should do the job, but if that doesn't quite work, find something else that is the right size.

You will also need to shim underneath the bit to achieve center. This is the tricky part as you will need varying thicknesses of shim stock to adjust for center with different tool bits. Luckily, I have an old rusty set of long feeler gauges that I found discarded in an alley, while walking home from work one day. Those worked nicely for this purpose and I didn't have to worry about damaging my nice set of precision ones.


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

I might have to give that a try, as I tend to be impatient. I'm trying to free up some funding now, I'll have to see how I fare.


----------



## LLCoolBeans

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> I might have to give that a try, as I tend to be impatient. I'm trying to free up some funding now, I'll have to see how I fare.



Believe it or not, that's how this thing "works". Now you understand why I speak about it the way I do.

Patience is the only way to get anything done with the iron maiden.


----------



## wquiles

darkzero said:


> Don't listen to me cause I don't know jack in this area but LMS does sell a starter kit that includes the QCTP tha LLCoolBeans mentioned. Great price for the kit too. http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3534&category=1070498684
> 
> I took Will's advice & ordered the QCTP Set from Lathemasters which was $169 alone. So the kit from LMS for $160 is an awsome price!


Good move. Only the set from Lathemaster fits the 8x14 lathe without any mods. Not only that, their "modified" AXA holders (more on this below) are the only ones that have the right height for the 8x14 lathe as normal AXA holders might have to be milled to work properly in the 8x14 lathe 





Tekno_Cowboy said:


> I made the mistake of picking up 1/4" cutters, to find that they don't quite fit in the tool post.
> 
> What size tooling should I be using with the stock tool post?
> 
> Is there a "starter kit" of some sort that works well with the HF 8x12?



I never used the built-in tool holder that comes with the lathe - complete waste of time. The thing you "need" to have, is a quick change tool post, and of course tool holders. Specifically, for the 8x14, you need this one from Lathemaster since it is already modified to simply drop-in to your lathe:
http://lathemaster.com/QUICK%20CHANGE%20TOOL%20POST%20SET.htm

Those tool holders are basically AXA size, which means they will take smaller tool bits like the 1/4" that you already got, all the way to 1/2" thick. You can get additional AXA holders cheaper at CDCO Tools, but read my post with mods to my now-gone 8x14 so that you can see how those holders from Lathemaster have been already modified to "fit" the 8x14 lathe 

Note on the Lathemaster side that they list their tool bit holders as either "STANDARD AXA TYPE" or "LATHEMASTER CUSTOM TYPE"
STANDARD AXA TYPE (these are the same ones you can get cheaper at CDCO Tools)
ITEM: 250-101

LATHEMASTER CUSTOM TYPE
ITEM: T250-101


I actually have several cutting tools that would fit those AXA holders (and that would be priced "very" reasonably), so if you or anyone else with the 8x14 want them, let me know by email 

Will


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

darkzero said:


> Don't listen to me cause I don't know jack in this area but LMS does sell a starter kit that includes the QCTP tha LLCoolBeans mentioned. Great price for the kit too. http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3534&category=1070498684
> 
> I took Will's advice & ordered the QCTP Set from Lathemasters which was $169 alone. So the kit from LMS for $160 is an awsome price!





wquiles said:


> Good move. Only the set from Lathemaster fits the 8x14 lathe without any mods. Not only that, their "modified" AXA holders (more on this below) are the only ones that have the right height for the 8x14 lathe as normal AXA holders might have to be milled to work properly in the 8x14 lathe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never used the built-in tool holder that comes with the lathe - complete waste of time. The thing you "need" to have, is a quick change tool post, and of course tool holders. Specifically, for the 8x14, you need this one from Lathemaster since it is already modified to simply drop-in to your lathe:
> http://lathemaster.com/QUICK CHANGE TOOL POST SET.htm
> 
> Those tool holders are basically AXA size, which means they will take smaller tool bits like the 1/4" that you already got, all the way to 1/2" thick. You can get additional AXA holders cheaper at CDCO Tools, but read my post with mods to my now-gone 8x14 so that you can see how those holders from Lathemaster have been already modified to "fit" the 8x14 lathe
> 
> Note on the Lathemaster side that they list their tool bit holders as either "STANDARD AXA TYPE" or "LATHEMASTER CUSTOM TYPE"
> STANDARD AXA TYPE (these are the same ones you can get cheaper at CDCO Tools)
> ITEM: 250-101
> 
> LATHEMASTER CUSTOM TYPE
> ITEM: T250-101
> 
> 
> I actually have several cutting tools that would fit those AXA holders (and that would be priced "very" reasonably), so if you or anyone else with the 8x14 want them, let me know by email
> 
> Will



Has anyone used the LittleMachineShop QTCP linked to above?


----------



## LLCoolBeans

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> Has anyone used the LittleMachineShop QTCP linked to above?



I have one, it works great. You do need to modify the compound slightly to get it to fit. This was easy for me as I have a small milling machine, but could be done with a hacksaw and file. In fact, the instructions say to use a hacksaw.

I've never seen the lathemaster offering before, that looks like it could be even better. It' looks more like a real Aloris.

Either one will be a vast improvement over what you've got.

How is lathemaster on shipping? Do they ship right away, or is there a wait? I know for sure that littlemachineshop, ships lightning fast. Orders ship out the same day the order is placed. I've placed several orders with them now and I am very pleased with their customer service. They are happy to answer questions too, call and speak to Chris or Roger, they'll get you what you need, and fast.


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

What did you need to modify on the compound?


----------



## LLCoolBeans

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> What did you need to modify on the compound?



1. Remove it from cross slide.
2. Disassemble it.
3. Press out threaded post, be careful not to bend it or damage the threads. (like I did. Dang. If you do damage the post, you will have to make a new one, like I had to.)
4. There is a cylindrical portion of the compound that surrounds the hole for the threaded post. That thing needs to be cut down a bit, I think about 1/4" if I remember correctly. Find a way to do that, this is easy with a mill, but could be done a lot of ways, even a hacksaw and file would work, just be careful.
5. Re-insert threaded post and press into place.
6. Re-assemble compound.
7. Re-attach compound to cross slide
8. Install QCTP.


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

I've got a friend who's a toolmaker that would probably be willing to mill that for me 

I've also decide to sell my modded EX10, which should give me the rest of the funds I need to buy the starter kit from LMS.


----------



## darkzero

LLCoolBeans said:


> How is lathemaster on shipping? Do they ship right away, or is there a wait? I know for sure that littlemachineshop, ships lightning fast. Orders ship out the same day the order is placed. I've placed several orders with them now and I am very pleased with their customer service. They are happy to answer questions too, call and speak to Chris or Roger, they'll get you what you need, and fast.


 
This is my first time ordering from them but definitely not the last. From what I've read online, not lightning fast. I've also read online at various places that Bob at Lathemaster is a very great person to deal with. I couldn't get him on the phone but he has responded to my emails daily. I sent payment Tues & I received confirmation that my order is shipping today. I didn't order online though since I also ordered a replacement part from the LM8x14. I paid through Paypal. I'm not in a big rush to get these parts, just happy I was able to get them.

I'm sure I will buy from LSM too. They're only 30 mins away I've been planning to drive there soon but I'm afraid I will leave there in debit. Maybe it's better for my wallet that I don't drive down there.


----------



## LLCoolBeans

darkzero said:


> Maybe it's better for my wallet that I don't drive down there.



:laughing: Yup, it's bad enough on the website or over the phone. Citibank is smiling on me this month.


----------



## StrikerDown

LLCoolBeans said:


> :laughing: Yup, it's bad enough on the website or over the phone. Citibank is smiling on me this month.



Beans,

I think you and I are the reason they (Citi Corp) are showing a profit!


----------



## LLCoolBeans

StrikerDown said:


> Beans,
> 
> I think you and I are the reason they (Citi Corp) are showing a profit!



They can't profit, until I actually pay. :naughty:


----------



## StrikerDown

LLCoolBeans said:


> They can't profit, until I actually pay. :naughty:



Okay, In that case as soon as we pay our bills the economy should be back on track then!


----------



## gadget_lover

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> I made the mistake of picking up 1/4" cutters, to find that they don't quite fit in the tool post.
> 
> What size tooling should I be using with the stock tool post?
> 
> Is there a "starter kit" of some sort that works well with the HF 8x12?




Despite all that you are hearing, you can use the stock toolpost. It's not as convenient, but it does work.

To determine the size that you need, you will simply find what size will have it's top right at the centerline of the chuck. 

A simple way to do this (with a ruler) is three step:
1) Put the dead center in your tailstock, move it over to the carriage and measure from the top of the carriage to the tip of the dead center.
2) Measure from the carriage to the bottom of the tool bit (cutter).
3) Subtract the first from the second. This is the size of the tool shank.

Most small lathes use 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2 inch bits.

You may need to grind the tool to give it the proper profile. Once it's ground the top of the cutting edge needs to be exactly on the centerline of the chuck. To achieve that you grind it down if too high or put shims (metal strips) under it if it is too low.

As someone else said, you can probably put any metal behind the bit, and you can stacl two 1/4 inch bits to get a 1/2 inch high stack.


A 1/4 inch bit is not as sturdy as a 1/2 inch bit, but they work fine in aluminum taking reasonable cuts.

When you have the cash, the QCTP is a great upgrade.

Daniel


----------



## will

My Enco 7x10 uses 5/16 " tools. I picked up a few blank HSS tools and ground them for a few different operations.


----------



## gadget_lover

will said:


> My Enco 7x10 uses 5/16 " tools. I picked up a few blank HSS tools and ground them for a few different operations.



Thanks for the reminder...

If you find that the distance from bottom of tool to centerline is 5/16, you can use 3/8's . Most bit profiles call for grinding some top relief (top rake) so 3/8 minus the 1/16 grind will put you on center. 

OTOH, if you have 5/16 to center and grind the top of a 5/16 bit at all, you will need to shim the bit to get it back in line.

Daniel


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

I sold a couple of lights and ordered up the starter kit from LMS. It should get here Thursday, and I'll finally be able to start working with my lathe.

Thanks for all the advice!


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

I got my tooling in today and got it set up. I'll probably go through a few inserts figuring out how to use the tooling properly, but I should have a good time doing it 

Here's a couple pics of my machine with the QCTP set up, and the first chips from my lathe:









Here's the first thing I made with my lathe, a holder for swapping led's on Nitecore lights. It sure beats the piece of pipe I was using


----------



## choffman

I know this is a moot point but here is an example of using 1/4" tools in the stock tool post. 







I don't know if I read this here or not but if you save the metal bands from the shipping container, it makes great shim stock. In the pic I'm using a 3 dollar feeler gauge set from hf. I'll eventually get a qctp but for now this has got me making chips.

What's this? Finally in-stock !!!






That makes me almost as happy as this.....








Looking forward the cleaning off the grease this weekend. I've got a bunch of stuff I've been wanting to make for a long time.

C-


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

I know I'm mostly loving my lathe, I just need to figure out how to make it smoother and more precise. The 1/2-3/4 turn of dead space when turning the compound wheel the opposite direction is not impressing me 
It's time to dig out my old CPU heatsink lapping kit too, to smooth out some surfaces.

Does anyone know of ways to clean up the play and smooth out the operation of the lathe?


----------



## gadget_lover

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> I know I'm mostly loving my lathe, I just need to figure out how to make it smoother and more precise. The 1/2-3/4 turn of dead space when turning the compound wheel the opposite direction is not impressing me
> It's time to dig out my old CPU heatsink lapping kit too, to smooth out some surfaces.
> 
> Does anyone know of ways to clean up the play and smooth out the operation of the lathe?



1/2 turn is a lot of back-lash. There will always be some backlash on a small lathe, but that seems excessive.

Backlash will come from two primary sources... 

a) a poor fit between the lead-screw and the threads cut into the body of the compound.

While the carriage has a split nut to take care of slop in the threads for the cross slide, I don't think that the compound has any such adjustment.

b) a loose fit between the bearing surfaces of the lead-screw and it's mounting point. In most cases it's just a turned shoulder on the screw that is trapped between the handle and a recess in the lead-screw mount.

Occasionally you will find something bizarre, like a burr on the handle shaft that keeps it from seating properly, or a bit of crud that got between the washer that bears on the lead-screw's shoulder.

The compound is easy to disassemble and easy to put back together. I's well worth looking into.

Daniel


----------



## StrikerDown

Duplicate deleated... Daniel beat my post!


----------



## gadget_lover

Nice to see that you have the lathe up and running. Isn't it amazing the things you can do with it? Even simple things like the Nitecore LED swapping jig that you built make life so much easier. Don't know what I'd do without mine.

By the way, back-lash is a fact of life. To deal with it you always make the final movement of the compound or cross-slide the same direction as you will cut.

Let me know if you need an explanation.

Daniel


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

Oh, even my friend Glen's very nice lathe has some backlash, but his is about .002-.005, not .025-.035 

Thanks for the tips!
I'm thinking I'm going to add a second nut of some sort to take out the play, and swap the bearing surfaces for a ball bearing.


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

After lapping a few surfaces, and adjusting a few nuts and bolts, my lathe is running much smoother.


----------



## darkzero

Might as well post mine here too after all it was this thread that lead me to finally get one.

Like with everything (which is an expensive habit of mine), I've spent more time & money getting upgrades for it rather than spending time actually using it like I should. Took practially everything apart to clean, relube, & make adjustments. Adjusted the "springs" in all the dials so now they can be move easily without having to use two hands. I did find one of them that is not concentric & need to correct it (I remember someone posted about the issue somewhere too?). What a huge improvement! I've barely even used it & I've already spent way more on it than what it actually cost. I was warned numerous times that this would happen though. 



As you can see I need a proper/bigger workbench for it & have been eyeing out this cheap one. Looks like it might not be sturdy enough though. Any recommendations?








My gears were very noisy. After removing all the gears & pulleys to clean/lube & make adjustments it's much quiter & smoother now. I haven't use the speed reduction pulley yet but I couldn't even get my stock belt onto it so I replaced it. Manual says O-720 but my stock belt is a O-710. 








I find myself laying tools on the headstock way too often so I covered it with some left over automotive clear mask. I'm going to redo it though as I'm not happy with it & will cover some areas while I'm at it.








Made a couple of knobs for quicker access. Ok, ok, I didn't actually make the knob itself, just machined the screws to fit them. 












Backsplash mock up. I'm so happy I was able to get this!











QCTP from Lathemaster. Solid carbide boring bars & grooving tool thanks to wquiles for the awsome deal as well as advice from him on what other tooling to start with! :twothumbs















I can't thank Will enough for being so very helpful answering all my noob questions & for the great deal on some tooling! Great to have him as a friend! :wave:

Now more waiting for my other packages arrive!


----------



## wquiles

Thank you for the kind words 

I am glad to be able to help, just like Daniel and others have helped me as well :wave:

Will


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy

I've bee using my lathe for a while now, and I think it's time for an update.

For the most part I'm really liking my lathe, it's nice an sturdy, and after a few simple mods, it's much more user friendly.

That said, setting up threading on this lathe is a huge pain. For that reason alone, I wish I'd gone with a lower-quality or higher-priced machine with a gearbox for quick gear changes. I'm thinking of trying to find an extra gear rail to use for threading only, so all it would take to switch over is 2 screws. (I pretty much only thread 20 tpi)

The other big problem with threading is that it's a bit fast. I'm planning to cure that problem by ordering the reduction pulley from lathemaster, or just putting a removable hand crank on one of the pulleys.

The Lathemaster QCTP was a great upgrade. It works much better than the A2Z CNC QCTP I originally ordered.

Anyhoo, I've just about finished my first completely home-brew light with it, so I wanted to update this thread.


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## wquiles

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> I've bee using my lathe for a while now, and I think it's time for an update.
> 
> For the most part I'm really liking my lathe, it's nice an sturdy, and after a few simple mods, it's much more user friendly.
> 
> That said, setting up threading on this lathe is a huge pain. For that reason alone, I wish I'd gone with a lower-quality or higher-priced machine with a gearbox for quick gear changes. I'm thinking of trying to find an extra gear rail to use for threading only, so all it would take to switch over is 2 screws. (I pretty much only thread 20 tpi)
> 
> The other big problem with threading is that it's a bit fast. I'm planning to cure that problem by ordering the reduction pulley from lathemaster, or just putting a removable hand crank on one of the pulleys.
> 
> The Lathemaster QCTP was a great upgrade. It works much better than the A2Z CNC QCTP I originally ordered.
> 
> Anyhoo, I've just about finished my first completely home-brew light with it, so I wanted to update this thread.



Cutting 20TPI (only thing I did on my 8x while I had it) was very easy and I did not even had to open the cover to engage/disengage the threading rod. All I did was drill a hole in the gear case, facing the operator, that allowed a "T" Allen wrench to go through the hole and engage the hex bolt that hold the gear to the main spindle. Since like you, I only used 20TPI, it was about 4-5 seconds to get it ready for threading. Now, it was easier for me since I had the variable speed, so I never had to open the gear case to change belts for various speeds - even the more reasons to convert your 8x to a variable speed lathe 

Will


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## Tekno_Cowboy

I'm not sure I understand, are you saying you just disconnected the gears for normal operations? How did you manage power feed if they were disconnected?


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## darkzero

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> The other big problem with threading is that it's a bit fast. I'm planning to cure that problem by ordering the reduction pulley from lathemaster, or just putting a removable hand crank on one of the pulleys.


 
The speed reduction pulley is definitely worth the money. It spins so slow that on it's slowest speed it takes 1 min & 36 secs for the carriage to travel 0.5". Just have to remember to reverse the direction of the motor when using the reduction pulley since the internal gears makes it spin "backwards". I can measure the spindle speeds if you're interested. 

Only downside is in a case where you would need to inspect the work by spinning the chuck by hand you'll have a hard time spinning the chuck because of the change in ratio. Not really an issue though but it can be annoying. However this does come in handy when I'm using a dremel mounted on my tool post as it's not easy for the chuck to move when cutting the work. I still hold the chuck anyway just to be safe.

Seen many ways to add a hand crank for threading. I like the method of adding one to the end of the leadscrew the best. Not complicated to do & you could just leave it on.


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## darkzero

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> I'm not sure I understand, are you saying you just disconnected the gears for normal operations? How did you manage power feed if they were disconnected?


 
I wish I had a quick disconnect for the leadscrew. :sigh: I don't use power feed much anyway, probably mostly only for threading. Then again there's many other features I wish I had now. I'm already looking at getting a bigger & better lathe but not that much bigger, just with more features. I've already got one in mind!


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## wquiles

Tekno_Cowboy said:


> I'm not sure I understand, are you saying you just disconnected the gears for normal operations? How did you manage power feed if they were disconnected?



I never used the power feed. I only engaged those gears for threading.


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## Tekno_Cowboy

I see, that would only work for me if I added a separate motor to the leadscrew for turning down material. Still, it's something to look into. 

It's pretty easy to quick-disconnect, just loosen the screw, and move the gears away from the spindle.


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## cmacclel

My Harbor Feight lathe was setup the same way. I added a harmonic drive motor from work to the lathe by removing the handle and adding a belt drive. I as everyone else left the 20 tpi gears in place. With my lathe you can disconnect the gearbox.

Mac


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## darkzero

darkzero said:


> The speed reduction pulley is definitely worth the money. It spins so slow that on it's slowest speed it takes 56 secs for the carriage to travel 1".


 
My mistake, this was not measured on the slowest speed, it was measured on the fastest speed of the reduction pulley (205 RPMs). I measured again on the slowest speed (60 RPMs) & it takes 1 min & 36 secs to travel 0.5". So slow that I can read the Bison logo on my chuck.

If anyone is curious, I took some spindle RPM measurements. I used an old but well known Monarch Pocket-Tach 100 last NIST calibrated in 2000 but I rarely use the thing.

RPM Actual
2000 2459
1000 1269
620 840
420 205 (RP)
210 103 (RP)
125 60 (RP)


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## Tekno_Cowboy

I've got one of those reduction pulleys on the way, along with a couple of other upgrades.


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