# TK-75, "Condensation/Fog under lens,again"



## Capolini (Aug 25, 2013)

I have seen this subject posted for a few other lights, but not mine so I thought I would make it mostly brand specific.I also would appreciate experiences in this regard with "Other" high powered torches.

I will start by saying the BEST answers that I received for this phenomenon/dilemma were on CPF.

That answer is, when they are assembled in the factory, sometimes the humidity in these facilities is high, therefore the moisture gets trapped in when the head is sealed.

Now, try to get the manufacturer[in China] or sales/ repairs in this country to tell you that! They won't! I shot down both of their replies with credible evidence. 

One reason was they tried to attribute the problem to me using NO-OX-ID on the threads and o'rings! WRONG answer! The problem existed before I ever applied NO-OX-ID. If that was the reason, wouldn't there be a "FILM" on the lense instead of it completely dissipating? Finally, the new[replacement] one that I received yesterday started to get condensation on lens with in 12 minutes of turbo. I did not put any grease on that one!!

Am I controversial??!! I don't think so, just trying to get the REAL reason for this!!

The other reason[from China headquarters] was that this fogging/ condensation is NORMAL when using turbo with that much heat. Something like the inside of the lens is very hot, the outside is cooler, therefore generating condensation that will eventually dissipate.It does dissipate in 15 to 30 minutes after torch is off.

However, if this is the case, then WHY DOESN'T Fenix have an Asterisk[ ***] or Three in the manual stating that condensation/fogging MAY occur when using light on turbo for extended periods of time???Also, how come this SEEMS to be an isolated problem,,,me and some others! U.S.A. Dealers say they have rarely heard of it. China says it is NORMAL!!! Sounds contradictory to me!

So, has anyone else had this reoccurring problem with the TK-75 and also for those of you who have other high powered torches, have any of you encountered this and what have you been told and what do you believe??!!

I have always been an inquisitive and curious person who likes to find answers/the truth!
The reality is sometimes it is difficult, not worth it and what may be a reality for one, can be an illusion for another!

To sum it up, as long as the condensation/fogging dissipates and NEVER forms water droplets to damage the light, it is NOT a major concern. I am not going to send back my Second light for a third that MAY do the same thing! It is just frustrating because of the contradicting information! Again, I think the best and most logical answers were given to me by very knowledgeable people on here. That is the one I believe[Happened in the factory/sealed in moisture].

I also want to say that Fenix Outfitters is a great company and they have taken care of me and I am sure they will continue to do so in the future. I JUST WANT ANSWERS!!!


I would greatly appreciate all feedback regarding this mystery!:thinking:

THANKS FOR YOUR TIME!:twothumbs

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Etsu (Aug 25, 2013)

Something doesn't quite make sense.

Are you only getting condensation on the inside of the light after using it on a high setting for some time? If so, that indicates there's some liquid water in the head that is getting evaporated by the heat and condensing on the cooler lens. That's much different than just having the head assembled in a humid environment.

If it was only about assembly in a humid environment, then you'd only have condensation if the flashlight was off and stored in a cold environment. In that case, if the temperature dropped below the dewpoint inside the head, you'd get condensation.

But in your case, it seems to be condensing after usage, which is the exact opposite of what would happen if it was just a simply humidity problem.

It really sounds like in your case it's a problem with water inside the head. Either something was screwed up during assembly, or in transport, and water got in.


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## kj2 (Aug 25, 2013)

As many of you know, my first TK75 had a fogging problem. I got a replacement from my Fenix dealer here, and the TK75 that I now have- doesn't fog that much.
The only other Fenix light that I have that fogs somewhat, is my TK70. All my other lights, don't fog at all. It could be that the weather/humidity in China/in the factory helps starting
this fogging-problem. I wonder if manufacturers test if lights fog, when assembled in different weather/temperature. If they don't, they should IMO start looking at this.
O-rings keep water outside, but air can still enter the light. So I guess the only way to prevent fogging at all, air-sealed heads is the way to go


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## Capolini (Aug 25, 2013)

Etsu said:


> Something doesn't quite make sense.
> 
> Are you only getting condensation on the inside of the light after using it on a high setting for some time? If so, that indicates there's some liquid water in the head that is getting evaporated by the heat and condensing on the cooler lens. That's much different than just having the head assembled in a humid environment.
> 
> ...


 

Yes, I am getting it after using it on Turbo for about 15 minutes. It does go away in about 15 minutes after the light is off.

You may be right. If it gets worse then I guess they will give me another one to replace it!

They said it was tested on turbo for 20 minutes and they had no condensation build up!! How come I do?

*Ciao,,,,,,,,,Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Capolini (Aug 25, 2013)

kj2 said:


> As many of you know, my first TK75 had a fogging problem. I got a replacement from my Fenix dealer here, and the TK75 that I now have- doesn't fog that much.
> The only other Fenix light that I have that fogs somewhat, is my TK70. All my other lights, don't fog at all. It could be that the weather/humidity in China/in the factory helps starting
> this fogging-problem. I wonder if manufacturers test if lights fog, when assembled in different weather/temperature. If they don't, they should IMO start looking at this.
> O-rings keep water outside, but air can still enter the light. So I guess the only way to prevent fogging at all, air-sealed heads is the way to go



Hello!! I remember chatting with you before. Your suggestion was for me to just ACCEPT IT!! May be a good idea if the problem doesn't get worse!!

I will probably get so many different answers that it will make me go crazy!! lol!!

*Ciao,,, Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*

One other thing,last night was 62 F. with very little humidity. I have used it when it was in the low 80's and humid. I know it is NOT winter yet[your experience] but regardless of outside temp. , it still fogs up. That tells me the moisture is INSIDE the light.


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## kj2 (Aug 25, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Hello!! I remember chatting with you before. Your suggestion was for me to just ACCEPT IT!! May be a good idea if the problem doesn't get worse!!
> I will probably get so many different answers that it will make me go crazy!! lol!!
> *Ciao,,, Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*
> One other thing,last night was 62 F. with very little humidity. I have used it when it was in the low 80's and humid. I know it is NOT winter yet[your experience] but regardless of outside temp. , it still fogs up. That tells me the moisture is INSIDE the light.


If you can return your second light, and get a new one- you could do that. I don't know if you have bought it locally or somewhere else, but you could try to let the light rest a few days/night in rice (something what I probably should've done with my first TK75 at first)


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## lwknight (Aug 25, 2013)

You have to expose the light to at least some humidity when putting the batteries into it.
It is hard to find a really dry place in a humid environment. 

I could send you some of our Texas hot dry air but shipping would be a killer.


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## Capolini (Aug 25, 2013)

kj2 said:


> If you can return your second light, and get a new one- you could do that. I don't know if you have bought it locally or somewhere else, but you could try to let the light rest a few days/night in rice (something what I probably should've done with my first TK75 at first)


 I am not sure how familiar you are with the U.S.A. GEOGRAPHY! I bought it from Fenix Outfitters in Oklahoma, about 1200 miles from Valley Forge, Pennsylvania where I live!! I am sure they will take care of me. I am calling them tomorrow.

FENIX NEEDS TO ADDRESS THIS ISSUE!!! Maybe I am the one to get them kick started!


*Ciao,,,, Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS*"


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## Capolini (Aug 25, 2013)

lwknight said:


> You have to expose the light to at least some humidity when putting the batteries into it.
> It is hard to find a really dry place in a humid environment.
> 
> I could send you some of our Texas hot dry air but shipping would be a killer.



OK!!!! Then WHY don't my other 9 lights have this issue??? Three of which are high powered!

*Ciao,,,,,Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## NorthernStar (Aug 25, 2013)

Capolini said:


> FENIX NEEDS TO ADDRESS THIS ISSUE!!! Maybe I am the one to get them kick started!
> 
> 
> *Ciao,,,, Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS*"



I´ve read about this issue about fog under lens on TK75 before. I found the whole thing strange. All my flashlights are made in China, all probably in the Shenzhen area in which there are high humidity in the air. However,none of my flashlights has ever showed any sign of fog under the lens. If it should,i would send it back for replacement. I don´t buy the excuse from the manufacturer that this should be normal in any way!

In a modern industrial facility producing electronics there must be a way to buld it to keep humitidy away when assembling electronic devices. The fog under the lens must have it´s origin from the factory,not from the owner using it outside. I think that Fenix should take care of this issue doing a revision of the facility in question.


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## Capolini (Aug 25, 2013)

NorthernStar said:


> I´ve read about this issue about fog under lens on TK75 before. I found the whole thing strange. All my flashlights are made in China, all probably in the Shenzhen area in which there are high humidity in the air. However,none of my flashlights has ever showed any sign of fog under the lens. If it should,i would send it back for replacement. I don´t buy the excuse from the manufacturer that this should be normal in any way!
> 
> In a modern industrial facility producing electronics there must be a way to buld it to keep humitidy away when assembling electronic devices. The fog under the lens must have it´s origin from the factory,not from the owner using it outside. I think that Fenix should take care of this issue doing a revision of the facility in question.



Thank you David!!! VERY WELL SAID!!

I agree 100% that the excuse/reason that Nicole in China gave is very weak, feeble and unacceptable.

I also thought of the same thing. These people[workers] most likely work in sweat shops with NO AIR CONDITIONING,,,,,That is the source of all of this!

*Ciao,,,"Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"!*


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## lwknight (Aug 25, 2013)

I'm going to buy a TK75 myself. If it gets a fogging problem where I live , I will know that the fog is from China.
I will put the head in a vacuum chamber to void any moisture. It it returns after that, then it will be a big WT*!

Actually , a second thought. Are the heads hermetically sealed? My other fenix lights appear that they are probably not.


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## Capolini (Aug 25, 2013)

lwknight said:


> I'm going to buy a TK75 myself. If it gets a fogging problem where I live , I will know that the fog is from China.
> I will put the head in a vacuum chamber to void any moisture. It it returns after that, then it will be a big WT*!
> 
> Actually , a second thought. Are the heads hermetically sealed? My other fenix lights appear that they are probably not.


 

You are a real comedian/jokester, aren't you?! There are other forums for that!

*Ciao,,, Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Tenebrae (Aug 25, 2013)

Capolini said:


> I agree 100% that the excuse/reason that Nicole in China gave is very weak, feeble and unacceptable.



No doubt about it, this is an annoying problem. If I were committed to owning the light, I might try the “rice in a large baggie” technique or buying silica gel packets and trying the same thing—making sure to keep the light in the bag for a few days till all the condensation wicks out. Of course the better alternative is for Fenix to supply you with a TK75_ that doesn’t have this problem in the first place!_:scowl:


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## NorthernStar (Aug 25, 2013)

This is interesting reading found at the Fonarik.com forum! It´s about a guy who is doing a visit in the Fenix factory in Shenzhen in China showing pics of the production and assembly of the flashlights: http://fonarik.com/fenix/ekskursiya-na-zavod-fonarej-fenix-chast-1-znakomstvo-s-proizvodstvom.html


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## Capolini (Aug 25, 2013)

Tenebrae said:


> No doubt about it, this is an annoying problem. If I were committed to owning the light, I might try the “rice in a large baggie” technique or buying silica gel packets and trying the same thing—making sure to keep the light in the bag for a few days till all the condensation wicks out. Of course the better alternative is for Fenix to supply you with a TK75_ that doesn’t have this problem in the first place!_:scowl:




Right!! :twothumbsThe better alternative is for them to supply me with one that DOES NOT have condensation issues!! It is not my responsibility to use rice or silica to fix their problem!! I am a consumer!

Believe me, in my gentle and diplomatic way, I will be fighting for a resolution regarding this issue!

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Capolini (Aug 25, 2013)

NorthernStar said:


> This is interesting reading found at the Fonarik.com forum! It´s about a guy who is doing a visit in the Fenix factory in Shenzhen in China showing pics of the production and assembly of the flashlights: http://fonarik.com/fenix/ekskursiya-na-zavod-fonarej-fenix-chast-1-znakomstvo-s-proizvodstvom.html



Thanks David!!! You are very helpful!

*Ciao,,"Roberto,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Tenebrae (Aug 25, 2013)

One thing's for certain: Fenix Outfitters will bend over backwards to make things right. They're an A+ dealer.:twothumbs


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## Capolini (Aug 25, 2013)

Tenebrae said:


> One thing's for certain: Fenix Outfitters will bend over backwards to make things right. They're an A+ dealer.:twothumbs


 I agree, they will!! :twothumbs They have so far! I am the person to make sure they continue to do so!! lol!!

Judy/Christine/Zane and the rest are going to be tired of me by the time this is resolved! :sigh: :mecry:

*Ciao,,, Roberto,,,"Capo* *di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Capolini (Aug 25, 2013)

kj2 said:


> As many of you know, my first TK75 had a fogging problem. I got a replacement from my Fenix dealer here, and the TK75 that I now have- doesn't fog that much.
> The only other Fenix light that I have that fogs somewhat, is my TK70. All my other lights, don't fog at all. It could be that the weather/humidity in China/in the factory helps starting
> this fogging-problem. I wonder if manufacturers test if lights fog, when assembled in different weather/temperature. If they don't, they should IMO start looking at this.
> O-rings keep water outside, but air can still enter the light. So I guess the only way to prevent fogging at all, air-sealed heads is the way to go


 Thanks!! We have chatted before young man!

I agree that they should be looking at this! I am the one to start the ball rolling. I can not expect much from the China manufacturers. They already fed me BS! I will be working with Fenix Outfitters to see what they can do for me and as a whole to try to resolve this ongoing issue.So far they have been very accommodating.  :thumbsup:

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Etsu (Aug 25, 2013)

kj2 said:


> but you could try to let the light rest a few days/night in rice (something what I probably should've done with my first TK75 at first)



Don't do this. Rice does not draw moisture out of the air. It only draws moisture from a surface it is in direct contact with. The only thing rice can possibly dry out is the outside of your flashlight. And you risk chaff getting in the threads or other surfaces of your light, and possibly damaging it.

Putting any electronics in rice is almost always a BAD idea. It is a myth that keeps getting spread around.

If you get your electronics wet, dry the surface off with a towel then open it up to let it air-dry for a few days. Adding rice will not help, and could actually make things worse.


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## kj2 (Aug 25, 2013)

Etsu said:


> Don't do this. Rice does not draw moisture out of the air. It only draws moisture from a surface it is in direct contact with. The only thing rice can possibly dry out is the outside of your flashlight. And you risk chaff getting in the threads or other surfaces of your light, and possibly damaging it.
> 
> Putting any electronics in rice is almost always a BAD idea. It is a myth that keeps getting spread around.
> 
> If you get your electronics wet, dry the surface off with a towel then open it up to let it air-dry for a few days. Adding rice will not help, and could actually make things worse.


Well, this is the first time I hear this. And many flashlights these days can't be opened because they are glued (specially the head).


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## Sherbona (Aug 25, 2013)

Etsu said:


> Don't do this. Rice does not draw moisture out of the air. It only draws moisture from a surface it is in direct contact with. The only thing rice can possibly dry out is the outside of your flashlight. And you risk chaff getting in the threads or other surfaces of your light, and possibly damaging it.
> Putting any electronics in rice is almost always a BAD idea. It is a myth that keeps getting spread around.
> If you get your electronics wet, dry the surface off with a towel then open it up to let it air-dry for a few days. Adding rice will not help, and could actually make things worse.


Dried rice makes an excellent DIY desiccant. After my iPhone was washed in a washing machine it could not be charged and had visible moisture inside the display, even after several days. With nothing left to lose I tried the dried rice method found on the web. After 2 days in a sealed container of dried rice there was no more moisture in the screen, it could be charged and after charging it was fine. (!)

In the sealed container, the dried rice absorbed water vapour readily from the air and the drier air is what the water in the cell phone evaporated into, which in turn was absorbed by the rice thus maintaining low humidity in the container. Of course a desiccant won't work on something that is sealed from contact with the desiccated air so I don't know if it would work here.


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## Tenebrae (Aug 25, 2013)

Etsu said:


> Don't do this. Rice does not draw moisture out of the air. It only draws moisture from a surface it is in direct contact with. The only thing rice can possibly dry out is the outside of your flashlight.



Completely and utterly incorrect.


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## Etsu (Aug 25, 2013)

Tenebrae said:


> Completely and utterly incorrect.



Shrug. It's up to you if you want to use witchcraft/myths on your electronics. Follow the science if you really want to know, but it seems you'd rather not. All's not bad, because the rice probably won't harm anything unless it gets inside your gear. It just won't do anything useful, like homeopathic medicine.

BTW, leave some rice out on a dry surface in a humid room. It doesn't expand, so it doesn't absorb any moisture from the air. IT DOESN'T WORK. It will only dry out wet surfaces, which are easier and more safely handled by wiping it off with a towel.

I'm sure I could tell you white isn't black, and you would still disagree. So, have fun wasting your rice. I'll eat the rice instead, which is all it's really good for.


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## Capolini (Aug 25, 2013)

It seems like a battle has started!!! LET THE TOURNAMENT BEGIN!!! 

For me personally it doesn't make a difference if it[rice] works because the Flashlight manufacturer is the one who is going to resolve my problem, not me! they will continue to work with me even if it takes numerous torches until they get it right!

I do not know if this is true or not[actually irrelevant from what I just stated] but someone mentioned the rice would probably NOT work in my case because it appears that the moisture is SEALED in the head from when they manufactured it. Even if I could take the head apart, I am not!

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## easilyled (Aug 25, 2013)

I have fogging in my Fenix TK35 that can't be resolved because the head is thread-locked with epoxy.
Thoroughly spoiled the TK35 for me.

The only other light that I have which has a similar problem is my Zebralight SC600 although I discovered that in this case the "fogging" was actually a permanent marking on the reflector which wouldn't come off even when taking it out and blowing pressurised air on it.

The fact that I can't open the heads of Fenix lights due to them being threadlocked is something that puts me off from buying any more.


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## Tenebrae (Aug 25, 2013)

Capolini said:


> It seems like a battle has started!!! LET THE TOURNAMENT BEGIN!!!



If one knows that 2+2=4, what's the point of debating that fact? I think we both know the answer, Roberto.


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## Capolini (Aug 25, 2013)

Tenebrae said:


> If one knows that 2+2=4, what's the point of debating that fact? I think we both know the answer, Roberto.



I do not know enough about rice and these lights to have an opinion! I have no experience with that!! I will say that I have heard many, many more say it works than ones who say it doesn't! 

Did you know that I am a mediator? Not on here but in real life! I have helped settle a lot of disputes by being open minded, honest, realistic, fair and with a logical and compromising personality!

All I know is that I am going to try my best to have Fenix resolve it! If it becomes a waste of time and useless battle, then I surrender and hope the light continues to work!!:thumbsup:

It is wonderful to learn from each other and have some intellectual debates, even if it is over something that is petty in the "realm of Life"!

Have a great night everybody,I am still taking the TK-75 out tonight with my little Wolf/Husky! Maybe a miracle will happen and it won't condensate tonight!! By the way the condensation is a little bigger than a quarter sized piece that I think would continue to grow[saw some evidence of it] if I had my Battery ext. on it where Turbo lasts almost 3 hours!

*Ciao,,, Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Dark Slayer (Aug 26, 2013)

The only time I have noticed any fog on my 75 has been when running on turbo with a fan testing runtime. Even then there was very little. Two spots right above the leds (tail standing). The TM15 did the same thing. Had both out tonight and ran on turbo for 10-12 mins and both were clear. Going to keep an eye on it though. I had a 3 aa led Minimag do that also. Small but noticable spot dead center of the lens.


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## artis (Aug 26, 2013)

Same story with my ex RC40. First one fogged after few minutes on turbo.

Fenix said that all RC40 are with fog problem because of humidity at factory and that I should try rice. Not nice for $400 light. So I started arguing with dealer to get refund and that it's not ultra clear glass and not throwing 700m because of fog and almost went to disputes tribunal and still dealer refused to give refund, so I decided to swap it.

Dealer also said he could not see any fog?!

After receiving new light, same story, fogged in few minutes in turbo. Worst thing was now fog was bigger and coming from middle of all 4 LEDs.
Next day one LED started flickering and few hours later it did not turned on. Later opposite led was always on high even if you change modes, see mickey mouse photo 

Sent light back to dealer and now waiting week+ for refund 

Personally I don't think it's condensation, it does look too wired and always forms the same shape. Could be some chemicals because of heat or who knows what.

Bad luck with high performance light from Fenix or Fenix quality is not good as few years ago?

BTW, still love my TK21,E01 and HL10 which does not step down and does not fog and has no bubbles in reflectors.


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## holylight (Aug 26, 2013)

Bookmark!!


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## Capolini (Aug 26, 2013)

Dark Slayer said:


> The only time I have noticed any fog on my 75 has been when running on turbo with a fan testing runtime. Even then there was very little. Two spots right above the leds (tail standing). The TM15 did the same thing. Had both out tonight and ran on turbo for 10-12 mins and both were clear. Going to keep an eye on it though. I had a 3 aa led Minimag do that also. Small but noticable spot dead center of the lens.




Thanks.

How old is your TK-75? Did you ever run it on turbo outside for extended periods?What dealer did you purchase it from? Your 3 AA MINIMAG, does that still work or did the problem progress and make it useless?

I run mine on turbo CONSTANTLY!! The very first time I used the new one[Saturday night] it began to show condensation after just 12 minutes of turbo. A little smaller than a quarter in an oval shape! Last night it did not start until 25 minutes of turbo. This light was tested[Fenix outfitters] on turbo[I think for 20 minutes ] and it did not do it.


As long as it does NOT affect the light as a whole, I will probably let it go.It is becoming a hassle sending these back. I choose to send them with $200.00 insurance, signature confirmation and 2 day priority,$17.55 each trip! However, it is frustrating and in NO WAY is my experience and isolated one. Basically 3 lights in a row have done this! They originally put a new head on my original light and it fogged up!

Lastly, Main headquarters is not going to do anything about it because they already told me that "This is NORMAL"!!! What BS! I guess my other 9 lights are abnormal!!

Thanks for your input!

*Ciao,,,,Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Capolini (Aug 26, 2013)

artis said:


> Same story with my ex RC40. First one fogged after few minutes on turbo.
> 
> Fenix said that all RC40 are with fog problem because of humidity at factory and that I should try rice. Not nice for $400 light. So I started arguing with dealer to get refund and that it's not ultra clear glass and not throwing 700m because of fog and almost went to disputes tribunal and still dealer refused to give refund, so I decided to swap it.
> 
> ...


 Thanks!! Wow,,,,,,,,your problems with your light/dealer are worse than mine.

I am beginning to think that Fenix has some serious issues that they ARE NOT INTERESTED IN RESOLVING! I am not giving up on my TK-75 yet, but I may have to consider a powerful torch with more credibility.

*Ciao,,,,Roberto,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Etsu (Aug 26, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Basically 3 lights in a row have done this!



Perhaps it isn't water. I can't imagine that the manufacturing process is so bad that they get water into the head with such frequency. Maybe some other chemical that evaporates at the high temperatures you get when you leave it on turbo for awhile. Some kind of petroleum product used in the construction?

Doesn't sound good, whatever it is. Unfortunately, it looks like it's common.


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## NeedMoreLight (Aug 26, 2013)

Not that it matters, since they are the same light, but is this the older TK75 or the newer version? I am waiting on one to be delivered and a little worried I may have the same problem.


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## Capolini (Aug 26, 2013)

NeedMoreLight said:


> Not that it matters, since they are the same light, but is this the older TK75 or the newer version? I am waiting on one to be delivered and a little worried I may have the same problem.



It is the original/older version w/ 2600 lumens


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## donn_ (Aug 26, 2013)

Etsu said:


> Perhaps it isn't water. I can't imagine that the manufacturing process is so bad that they get water into the head with such frequency. Maybe some other chemical that evaporates at the high temperatures you get when you leave it on turbo for awhile. Some kind of petroleum product used in the construction?



I was thinking along the same lines, and the first thing which comes to mind is the coating on the lens.

Just for grins, remove and reverse the lens, and see what happens.


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## Capolini (Aug 26, 2013)

donn_ said:


> I was thinking along the same lines, and the first thing which comes to mind is the coating on the lens.
> 
> Just for grins, remove and reverse the lens, and see what happens.


 
I think the head is sealed with epoxy. I am not qualified to do it anyway! Also, the condensation/fog is NOT always in the same place. It condenses in different areas on the lens.Usually the same size and shape. In that case, the entire lens would have to be defective.

Also, I agree with the theory that if the lens was heating up due to a chemical reaction, the condensation like area would be permanently scarred/charred and would still be there after it cools.This[condensation] happened dozens and dozens of times with my original light before I returned it. 20 minutes or so after the light was off, the condensation was gone, with the lens looking and returning to normal.

I can actually see what looks like miniscule water droplets.

Thanks for your input.

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Etsu (Aug 26, 2013)

donn_ said:


> I was thinking along the same lines, and the first thing which comes to mind is the coating on the lens.
> 
> Just for grins, remove and reverse the lens, and see what happens.



You think it might be fogging the anti-reflection coating they put on the lens? If that's the case, I think it would remain fogged after it cooled down, no? If it's hot enough to damage the coatings, they should remain damaged after things cool down.

If it's something inside the head that is boiling off at high temperatures, then see if the lens can be removed while it's still hot to let the gasses escape. You'd have to remove the lens (or some other replacement glass) while the light is still on.

Chances are you'd just wreck your light trying this, so maybe the best thing is to just accept the problem and live with it. If it only fogs after 12-25 minutes, that doesn't seem too bad an issue. My concern would be that it was damaging something, but your light still seems to work so I suppose that's not the case.


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## Capolini (Aug 26, 2013)

Etsu said:


> You think it might be fogging the anti-reflection coating they put on the lens? If that's the case, I think it would remain fogged after it cooled down, no? If it's hot enough to damage the coatings, they should remain damaged after things cool down.
> 
> If it's something inside the head that is boiling off at high temperatures, then see if the lens can be removed while it's still hot to let the gasses escape. You'd have to remove the lens (or some other replacement glass) while the light is still on.
> 
> Chances are you'd just wreck your light trying this, so maybe the best thing is to just accept the problem and live with it. If it only fogs after 12-25 minutes, that doesn't seem too bad an issue. My concern would be that it was damaging something, but your light still seems to work so I suppose that's not the case.




*"Our SERENITY is directly proportional to our level of ACCEPTANCE"! For now, unless the light deteriorates in functionality, this is where I need to be!!

Ciao,,,"Roberto",,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Dark Slayer (Aug 26, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Thanks.
> 
> How old is your TK-75? Did you ever run it on turbo outside for extended periods?What dealer did you purchase it from? Your 3 AA MINIMAG, does that still work or did the problem progress and make it useless?
> 
> ...


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## Capolini (Aug 26, 2013)

NeedMoreLight said:


> Not that it matters, since they are the same light, but is this the older TK75 or the newer version? I am waiting on one to be delivered and a little worried I may have the same problem.



Not everyone uses "Turbo" constantly like me. So hopefully you won't have the same problem.

Please do me a favor when you get it. Put it on turbo for at least twenty minutes until it steps down[that is not always consistent either, sometimes it 30 minutes!]Either by walking outside like me or testing at home. Check it after that. If it is clear, put it on turbo for another 20 minutes and see what happens to the inside of the lens.

I run mine between 52 and 62 minutes on turbo when I use it.That is all I use until it steps down because of weakening batteries.

Thanks

*Ciao,,,"Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Capolini (Aug 26, 2013)

Dark Slayer said:


> Capolini said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks.
> ...


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## RedForest UK (Aug 26, 2013)

It's like one of the responses given by Fenix, with even moderate levels of humidity inside the lens it will fog up a little on high power as the inside of the lens is the coolest area inside the head. 

This happens unfortunately on almost all of my med/large lens high powered lights with any airflow to the lens. I have tried multiple ways of stopping it on homemade lights such as leaving them on until very hot with the lens lifted a little to allow any moisture to escape, assembling in low humidity and applying anti-fog coating to the inside of the lens itself. I have had varying degrees of success with each of these methods, but on some lights have just decided to live with it. Triple emitter lights are some of the easiest to ignore it on as it doesn't seem to significantly affect the beam profile due to the positioning of multiple reflectors.


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## Capolini (Aug 26, 2013)

RedForest UK said:


> It's like one of the responses given by Fenix, with even moderate levels of humidity inside the lens it will fog up a little on high power as the inside of the lens is the coolest area inside the head.
> 
> This happens unfortunately on almost all of my med/large lens high powered lights with any airflow to the lens. I have tried multiple ways of stopping it on homemade lights such as leaving them on until very hot with the lens lifted a little to allow any moisture to escape, assembling in low humidity and applying anti-fog coating to the inside of the lens itself. I have had varying degrees of success with each of these methods, but on some lights have just decided to live with it. Triple emitter lights are some of the easiest to ignore it on as it doesn't seem to significantly affect the beam profile due to the positioning of multiple reflectors.


 Thanks

So my best bet was what I said several posts back?!!

*Our serenity is directly proportionate to our ACCEPTANCE!!!"

Your point is well taken,,,,,,,others have offered it also.

Bottom line , as long as the light maintains its functionality, I will accept it as is and remove all doubt, fear and worries from my constantly thinking, resolving, analytical type brain!

Ciao,,, Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"

p.s. However, WHY DOESN'T MY BLACK SHADOW TERMINATOR DO IT? It has 4 emitters and puts out more short distance light[flood/spill] than the TK-75. I could also name numerous other high powered lights that don't have this issue!

Back to square one!! lol ,,,lol*:shrug:

Young man,It is late in the U.K.!! Time for you to get some sleep!


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## artis (Aug 26, 2013)

RedForest UK said:


> Triple emitter lights are some of the easiest to ignore it on as it doesn't seem to significantly affect the beam profile due to the positioning of multiple reflectors.



When I did my first RC40 test outside I was walking with dog near the beach and noticed that houses and trees are not illuminated as bright as it was at the beginning (300-600m). That's when I lifted it up and found "condensation", tried to clean it up and failed because it was from inside.
So I believe it's quiet noticeable, it's like you put diffuser on your light.

I wanted to make beam shoots to compare fogged and clean RC40, but don't have pro camera or knowledge ho to do night shoots properly.


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## RedForest UK (Aug 26, 2013)

The Black Shadow terminator doesn't do it as it has four seperate lenses, each of a much smaller diameter than the TK75's single lens. For some reason (maybe it doesn't allow for as much of a heat differential) smaller lenses do not fog anywhere near as easily as larger one.


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## RedForest UK (Aug 26, 2013)

artis said:


> When I did my first RC40 test outside I was walking with dog near the beach and noticed that houses and trees are not illuminated as bright as it was at the beginning (300-600m). That's when I lifted it up and found "condensation", tried to clean it up and failed because it was from inside.
> So I believe it's quiet noticeable, it's like you put diffuser on your light.



Ok, I see how if it is bad it could still have a noticable effect overall. With single emitter lights however it creates a very obvious dark ring around the hotspot, which is very annoying. At least with triple emitter lights it doesn't do that as the fog isn't centered on any one reflector cup.


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## Capolini (Aug 26, 2013)

RedForest UK said:


> The Black Shadow terminator doesn't do it as it has four seperate lenses, each of a much smaller diameter than the TK75's single lens. For some reason (maybe it doesn't allow for as much of a heat differential) smaller lenses do not fog anywhere near as easily as larger one.


 ok, I will buy that. However, OLight, Nitecore,Jetbeam, niwalker,zebralight, sunwayman, ect. To the best of my knowledge, their high powered lights do not have this issue, at least not to the extent of fenix It is NOT ONLY the TK-75! If you scroll up and see that fiasco the guy from New Zealand is having with the RC-40. Another with a tk-50 and TK-70 have also added to this thread.

Believe me, I am far from an expert, but when Fenix feeds me answers like, This is Normal, and the analysis that you stated from them,,,it is BS and I don't buy it when most other high powered lights do not have this issue!

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,,"Capo di capo" KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"


p.s. Read post # 3 and post # 10. #10 post[David] has a lot of experience, knowledge and wisdom.
*


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## donn_ (Aug 26, 2013)

Etsu said:


> You think it might be fogging the anti-reflection coating they put on the lens? If that's the case, I think it would remain fogged after it cooled down, no? If it's hot enough to damage the coatings, they should remain damaged after things cool down.



I have no idea. I'm as far from a science person as a person can get. I can imagine, however, a temporary state change in the coating, which returns to normal after cooling.



Etsu said:


> If it's something inside the head that is boiling off at high temperatures, then see if the lens can be removed while it's still hot to let the gasses escape. You'd have to remove the lens (or some other replacement glass) while the light is still on.



I don't think you'd damage the light by running it without the glass, to see if you can get rid of whatever may be off-gassing.


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## Capolini (Aug 26, 2013)

donn_ said:


> I have no idea. I'm as far from a science person as a person can get. I can imagine, however, a temporary state change in the coating, which returns to normal after cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think you'd damage the light by running it without the glass, to see if you can get rid of whatever may be off-gassing.



To the best of my knowledge you CAN'T take apart the head and remove the lens. It is permanently sealed with epoxy.

*Ciao,,,Roberto "Capo di Capo" **"KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Capolini (Aug 26, 2013)

I need to take a break from this!! My girlfriend said that I am not obsessed with my torch, I am possessed by it!

She may have a point!:mecry:

*Ciao,, Roberto "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## NorthernStar (Aug 27, 2013)

Neither the head or the lens can be taken apart on the TK75 or the RC40 either. The moisture or what ever chemical it might be, *must* come from the factory process. I don´t think that the rice method could do anything to solve this issue since it´s sealed inside the flashlight. When we are talking about flashlights with a 400$ pricetag like the RC40, i do think that one can demand that the light should perform flawless and there should be no condensation under the lens disturbing the beam performance.


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## Dark Slayer (Aug 27, 2013)

Freezer tests.

TK75 Running turbo 15 min, fogged in center nickel sized spot. Also a few spots on reflector. Goes away when the glass warms back up. Pretty much the same result when tested not running in freezer.
Some fogging above each led when tail standing and fan cooled. Have never seen it fog during normal use. Even when ran until hot on turbo.

TK70 (not running) centered spot on lens and some condensation on the reflector but quickly went away after warming up. The lens cleared up much faster than the reflector. After the lens cleared but before the reflector cleared the mighty thrower was noticeably diffused. Not real bad but you could tell. Have never seen it fog during normal use. Even when ran until hot on turbo.

TK41 (not running) oblong shaped spot but quickly went away after warming up. Clear as a bell when tail standing on turbo with fan cooling. Have never seen it fog during normal use. Even when ran until hot on turbo.

TM15 (not running) Same result but much smaller spot in center. Went away quickly after warming up some. Some slight fogging above each led when tail standing and fan cooled. Have never seen it fog during normal use. Even when ran until hot on turbo.

EA4 Stays clear frozen, running, jumping, no spots formed.

EC25 Same as EA4.

TK75 in the fridge turned off. Same spot formed but went away in less than two mins.

When running turbo the glass never seems the get even warm on these things. I was kinda surprised but even when the heat sink area was quite warn the glass feels cool to the touch.

If there is some moisture trapped and it finds something cool enough it will condense on it. I kind of see whats going on when it gets heated up and the glass is relatively cool but not sure about when the whole thing is cooled down.

Anyway thats what I did all night.


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## Capolini (Aug 27, 2013)

Dark Slayer said:


> Freezer tests.
> 
> TK75 Running turbo 15 min, fogged in center nickel sized spot. Also a few spots on reflector. Goes away when the glass warms back up. Pretty much the same result when tested not running in freezer.
> Some fogging above each led when tail standing and fan cooled. Have never seen it fog during normal use. Even when ran until hot on turbo.
> ...



Thanks for your time, testing and info. Hope you got some sleep after all that!

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Etsu (Aug 27, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Believe me, I am far from an expert, but when Fenix feeds me answers like, This is Normal, and the analysis that you stated from them,,,it is BS and I don't buy it when most other high powered lights do not have this issue!



I don't blame you. On a $20 light, I'd accept that it's normal, because it's cheap and what do you expect for $20 anyway? But on a $200 light, their quality control should be much better. Whatever is inside the head (water or some other volatile), they should get it out before sealing it up. Besides, if it's moisture, it can't be good for the other components inside the head.


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## Capolini (Aug 27, 2013)

NorthernStar said:


> Neither the head or the lens can be taken apart on the TK75 or the RC40 either. The moisture or what ever chemical it might be, *must* come from the factory process. I don´t think that the rice method could do anything to solve this issue since it´s sealed inside the flashlight. When we are talking about flashlights with a 400$ pricetag like the RC40, i do think that one can demand that the light should perform flawless and there should be no condensation under the lens disturbing the beam performance.



After listening to all you guys I have learned a lot. I believe for my torch, it WILL NOT go away because of what is stated above. It originated from the factory when the light was manufactured. The lens and head are UNREMOVEABLE, therefore, the problem will most likely never go away.It is SEALED in!

So, in order for me not to go insane[!], I have to hope that the condition stays "as is" and does not progress where the torch will be rendered useless.

Reality is, this is Three [3] lights[TK-75] in a row that did this. Why would I expect my luck or odds to change if I got another!
Nicole from China may be right when she says, "This is Normal"! It is "Normal" for Fenix and their TK-75 because they are apparently NOT interested in making it ABNORMAL[!] like many of their competitors high powered lights that don't condensate/fog or whatever you want to call it!

Am I  !! I may be!!

Thanks again everybody!

*Ciao,,, Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP ON LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS".........WITHOUT CONDENSATION **ON THE LENS!!!*


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## Capolini (Aug 27, 2013)

Etsu said:


> I don't blame you. On a $20 light, I'd accept that it's normal, because it's cheap and what do you expect for $20 anyway? But on a $200 light, their quality control should be much better. Whatever is inside the head (water or some other volatile), they should get it out before sealing it up. Besides, if it's moisture, it can't be good for the other components inside the head.



Agreed young man. I have the solution!

*I am sending the "Mob" over to China!! With my Husky/Wolf, "Capo" leading the way with my 101 year old Great Uncle Settimio!! Settimio is almost as quick as Bruce Lee!!!

Ciao,,, Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## lintonindy (Aug 27, 2013)

I have the solution for you sir, but you might not want to hear it. Send it to Vinh to mod and have him keep the light on with the lens off after his modifications. Have him do a full battery drain or more and then enjoy your modified TK75vn that is better than the factory with no fogging of the lens. I tested mine for 40 minutes last night and it didn't fog at all. It's another $100 that you probably don't want to spend and for that I do understand. Should you have to? Heck no! However, if you want the problem to go away, I think you are going to just have to bite the bullet and have Vinh work on it. The other upside is that Vinh pots all of his electronics, upgrades the wire gauge on the driver, feeds it more power, puts in better springs, updates the switch, puts in the most up to date emitters with your choice of tint, either dedomed or dome intact, and puts them all on copper with a better path for the heat. That $17.50 what is that 3 times already? Your half way there to the $100 and you will have a better light in the end. JMHO


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## Dark Slayer (Aug 27, 2013)

lintonindy said:


> I have the solution for you sir, but you might not want to hear it. Send it to Vinh to mod and have him keep the light on with the lens off after his modifications. Have him do a full battery drain or more and then enjoy your modified TK75vn that is better than the factory with no fogging of the lens. I tested mine for 40 minutes last night and it didn't fog at all. It's another $100 that you probably don't want to spend and for that I do understand. Should you have to? Heck no! However, if you want the problem to go away, I think you are going to just have to bite the bullet and have Vinh work on it. The other upside is that Vinh pots all of his electronics, upgrades the wire gauge on the driver, feeds it more power, puts in better springs, updates the switch, puts in the most up to date emitters with your choice of tint, either dedomed or dome intact, and puts them all on copper with a better path for the heat. That $17.50 what is that 3 times already? Your half way there to the $100 and you will have a better light in the end. JMHO


Did you try the freezer test??.. Anyone know how he gets the lens out? I can't see why they would epoxy it. I bet it's just screwed on.


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## Albert56 (Aug 27, 2013)

If the head is hermetically sealed and there was _water vapor_ inside, it should condense under the lens anytime the light is taken from ambient temperature to a cold environment, _regardless_ of whether it had been turned on or not. On the other hand, if it took the heat of turbo operation to vaporize whatever it is in the first place, then one would expect that substance to condense and _stay_ under the lens until the head got hot enough to boil it off again... strange. I'm no physicist, but It seems most likely to me that the head _isn't_ truly sealed and moisture _can_ get in and out of it - just not fast enough to avoid condensing on the lens first.

I have a TK75 XM-L2 on the way. I hope I don't encounter this problem. If I do, I'll probably just return the light rather than worry about resolving the issue. As a consumer I don't think that's my job. I agree that a light in this price range shouldn't have condensation problems, especially since Fenix has had plenty of time to address and fix the issue by now. I figured they would have done so with the next generation. Rather disappointing! :ironic:


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## Etsu (Aug 27, 2013)

Albert56 said:


> It seems most likely to me that the head _isn't_ truly sealed and moisture _can_ get in and out of it - just not fast enough to avoid condensing on the lens first.



It is a strange problem. Yes, my guess would be that the head isn't air tight. So turning on the light will cause the air inside to warm and thus expand. That air (saturated with water vapor or whatever it is) will be forced out of the head. When the light is turned off and the air in the head cools, it will contract and that will cause air from outside to go into the head.

So....

Try putting the light inside a freezer right after turning it off. Air in a freezer doesn't contain much water vapor, due to the low capacity of cold air to hold moisture. That should cause dry air to go into the head, replacing the humid air that escaped.

Do that a few times, and you might dry out the air inside the head.

Probably won't work, but worth a shot. This does seem like a weird problem.


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## NorthernStar (Aug 27, 2013)

Albert56 said:


> I have a TK75 XM-L2 on the way. I hope I don't encounter this problem. If I do, I'll probably just return the light rather than worry about resolving the issue. *As a consumer I don't think that's my job*. . I agree that a light in this price range shouldn't have condensation problems, especially since Fenix has had plenty of time to address and fix the issue by now. I figured they would have done so with the next generation. Rather disappointing! :ironic:



I second these thoughts! I have intended to buy an old TK75 if i find one to a closeout price, but since this issue with fog under the lens has been reported by so many users i might call of the deal. It would be realy interesting to hear about feedback from the upgraded TK75-L2 if it also suffers from this fog/condensation issue.

It could be an alternative to sending the TK75 to Vinh to get it modified,but that is no solution to the whole issue,and as you said, as a consumer i don´t think that´s my job!

If the issue continues on the upgraded versions of the TK75, i am going to buy a flashlight from another manufacturer instead. The same goes for the RC40 which has been reported to suffer the same condens issue as the TK75, i think that people who had thought about buying the RC40 instead will go for the coming Olight SR96 instead.

There has been many reviews of the TK75 on this forum and from what i have seen none of the reviewers had reported any issue of condens/fog under the lens of their flashlights.The TK75 has been on the market since November 2012. Have they got batches of perfect TK75 or what reason could it be that this issue has not been more spoken about before? Are we talking about isolated batches of TK75 with issues,while others has been good?:thinking:


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## Capolini (Aug 27, 2013)

lintonindy said:


> I have the solution for you sir, but you might not want to hear it. Send it to Vinh to mod and have him keep the light on with the lens off after his modifications. Have him do a full battery drain or more and then enjoy your modified TK75vn that is better than the factory with no fogging of the lens. I tested mine for 40 minutes last night and it didn't fog at all. It's another $100 that you probably don't want to spend and for that I do understand. Should you have to? Heck no! However, if you want the problem to go away, I think you are going to just have to bite the bullet and have Vinh work on it. The other upside is that Vinh pots all of his electronics, upgrades the wire gauge on the driver, feeds it more power, puts in better springs, updates the switch, puts in the most up to date emitters with your choice of tint, either dedomed or dome intact, and puts them all on copper with a better path for the heat. That $17.50 what is that 3 times already? Your half way there to the $100 and you will have a better light in the end. JMHO



Thanks for the suggestion but I weighed the Pros and Cons for that about Three weeks ago and decided against it.This is just me! One[1] Pro and Four[4] Cons.

Even if I changed my mind[which I won't] he is not interested in doing my light. I am very open, honest and DIRECT. He was not too pleased with my reasons for going against it! 

I know I probably said too much!!

I sent Two lights back. The third was tested[for condensation] before they were to send it to me and it failed the test.

*Ciao,,, Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Capolini (Aug 27, 2013)

So many thoughts, opinions and suggestions!!

I am going to need to go to TK-75 Therapy after all of this!!   :shrug: :sigh:  lovecpf

*In the end,,,It is all Good!!!

Ciao,,,Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"
*


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## Dark Slayer (Aug 27, 2013)

So I keep thinking about this and if someone is modding these they are taking it apart. So monkey see, monkey do.
I take just the head out to the garage and using wood in the jaws clamp it snug with the ring sticking up enough to get a strap wrench on. First try no go. The whole thing started to turn. I had it pretty snug but obviously didn't want to deform it with the vise by over doing it. 

I get the heat gun and slowly go around the outside of the ring ring getting it just hot enough that I could still touch it. Maybe 120f if I had to guess. This just enough to let the ring start to turn without the whole head slipping and I got the ring off.
There is a clear plastic washer between the ring and lens and a rubber gasket between the lens and head. It's very humid here right now so I didn't really know what to do now that I had it open and what I could try to use to replace the air inside with. Nitrogen would probably be good but how many of us have that laying around. Or that "air" in a can you blow the dust off camera lenses with. Didn't have that either so I lifted the lens and blew some hot air from the heat gun held about a foot away in there and quickly put the lens back on and tightened it all up.

Stick it in the freezer awhile and still have the same spot as before. No difference what so ever. 
More trial and error to come soon. Stay tuned.....


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## Capolini (Aug 27, 2013)

Dark Slayer said:


> So I keep thinking about this and if someone is modding these they are taking it apart. So monkey see, monkey do.
> I take just the head out to the garage and using wood in the jaws clamp it snug with the ring sticking up enough to get a strap wrench on. First try no go. The whole thing started to turn. I had it pretty snug but obviously didn't want to deform it with the vise by over doing it.
> 
> I get the heat gun and slowly go around the outside of the ring ring getting it just hot enough that I could still touch it. Maybe 120f if I had to guess. This just enough to let the ring start to turn without the whole head slipping and I got the ring off.
> ...



Hope you don't ruin your torch! I see some serious condensation problems on the horizon! It is also very humid here in suburban Philly!

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Etsu (Aug 27, 2013)

Dark Slayer said:


> I lifted the lens and blew some hot air from the heat gun held about a foot away in there and quickly put the lens back on and tightened it all up.



I don't think that will remove any humidity. Heating air will reduce its relative humidity, but absolute humidity still remains the same. i.e., that hot air still contains the same amount of water vapor. When that hot air inside the light cools down again, it's relative humidity will be the same as the regular house air you previously heated.

The only thing blowing hot air might do is evaporate any liquid water inside the head, and get rid of it that way. But using hot air or regular air after that won't make any difference. You should close it up when in an air-conditioned room with low humidity.

Anyway, I don't think we're 100% sure that the fogging is the result of water.


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## Dark Slayer (Aug 27, 2013)

After blowing the hot air into it I ran it on turbo in front of the fan and there was NO fog spot. Ran it in the freezer on turbo and same spot as originally. Put it back in front of the fan on turbo and after six mins spot was around 60% gone. Turned fan off and within two mins spot was gone (still on turbo). 

Have to go put door knobs on at mothers. More to come..... Wonder if propane has moisture in it, hmmm.


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## Capolini (Aug 27, 2013)

Dark Slayer said:


> After blowing the hot air into it I ran it on turbo in front of the fan and there was NO fog spot. Ran it in the freezer on turbo and same spot as originally. Put it back in front of the fan on turbo and after six mins spot was around 60% gone. Turned fan off and within two mins spot was gone (still on turbo).
> 
> Have to go put door knobs on at mothers. More to come..... Wonder if propane has moisture in it, hmmm.




I have a suggestion!! Use it in NORMAL circumstances like me!!! No fans involved, just using it naturally.Take a walk for an hour and run it on CONTINUOUS TURBO, disregarding step downs, putting it right back to turbo.Check it every couple of minutes WITHOUT turning it off or at a lower mode. I am sure you could figure it out, but I will tell you anyway!! Put the light on an angle when you check for condensation so you don't BLIND yourself!

Please do this one day/night and let me know what the results are?

*Ciao,,, Roberto,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"

P.S. I was born in Cleveland!! Also,I am 53 years old and average 6 miles of walking a day with the Siberian!! I am sure you are younger and can walk 3 or 4 miles for the TK-75 Natural Turbo Condensation* *Test!!*

  :huh: :thumbsup:


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## Tenebrae (Aug 27, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Thanks for the suggestion but I weighed the Pros and Cons for that about Three weeks ago and decided against it.This is just me! One[1] Pro and Four[4] Cons.
> 
> Even if I changed my mind[which I won't] he is not interested in doing my light. I am very open, honest and DIRECT. He was not too pleased with my reasons for going against it!



Hmm...would you describe him as a prima donna, Roberto? If so, I might have to reconsider my future modding plans.


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## Albert56 (Aug 27, 2013)

Of course each person is free to do as they see fit regarding this problem, but I consider this a zero tolerance issue - either the thing works as it's supposed to or it doesn't... period. The design is clearly defective or the QC is inadequate if this is happening with any kind of frequency. It ought to be Fenix's job to correct the problem, not the customers. Instead of subsidizing Fenix and fixing their lemons for them, I suggest sending the thing back and demanding your money back if you're not completely satisfied. None of my other lights do this, and I'm hoping this one won't either, but if it does - back it goes! I see no excuses here for Fenix (or the vendors that sell it). Get it right or get it off the market!


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## Dark Slayer (Aug 27, 2013)

Capolini said:


> I have a suggestion!! Use it in NORMAL circumstances like me!!! No fans involved, just using it naturally.Take a walk for an hour and run it on CONTINUOUS TURBO, disregarding step downs, putting it right back to turbo.Check it every couple of minutes WITHOUT turning it off or at a lower mode. I am sure you could figure it out, but I will tell you anyway!! Put the light on an angle when you check for condensation so you don't BLIND yourself!
> 
> 
> Please do this one day/night and let me know what the results are?
> ...


 I'm 53 also and retired. I do take walks and have woods/fields above me. Also my front door is 42' from a river bank and I always spot for fish, raccoons and there is even a muskrat that is always going past. 
Anyway I did state before that so far mine has never fogged during actual use even when ran hard and hot and out here I usually do. Thats why I got the lights that I did. Only when testing (run times and such) with a fan and that keeps the lens cooler that normal while running.
It did seem to help at least on turbo with fan because no spot show this time and it did before I took it apart. So I'm getting somewhere. I think I'll try the air conditioner thing before trying to replace the air with some other gas.
If I suddenly stop posting then the propane didn't work.


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## thedoc007 (Aug 27, 2013)

Etsu said:


> Don't do this. Rice does not draw moisture out of the air. It only draws moisture from a surface it is in direct contact with. The only thing rice can possibly dry out is the outside of your flashlight. And you risk chaff getting in the threads or other surfaces of your light, and possibly damaging it.
> 
> Putting any electronics in rice is almost always a BAD idea. It is a myth that keeps getting spread around.
> 
> If you get your electronics wet, dry the surface off with a towel then open it up to let it air-dry for a few days. Adding rice will not help, and could actually make things worse.



Taken from a cell phone repair forum, this is not my work:

http://www.droidforums.net/forum/droid-faq/8539-how-deal-droid-thats-gotten-wet-right-way-4.html

_But, the same speed of water removal can be achieved much more safely by using distilled water for a rinse and silica desiccant for moisture removal. In your research you should have found that silica desiccant will absorb ~40% of it's weight in water from the air. A large volume of desiccant in a small, sealed, container will remove small quantities of water VERY rapidly. Try this little experiment: get a ~10oz container of silica desiccant and put it in a sealed container such as a large ziplock bag along with a 2oz shotglass of water. In less than 24 hours the shotglass will be empty and bone dry. No cell phone can hold 2oz of water after any reasonable effort to drain it, likely less than 1/8oz. Even water in tight spaces will evaporate quickly as the humidity in the container plummets and all available moisture wicked into the air and then into the desiccant.

I'm unclear on why some don't trust desiccants as they are used in almost any industry where moisture control and removal is key. Their moisture removal properties are measureable and consistent to the point that the exact weight of the little packets in food, pharmaceutical and agricultural items is carefully selected to maintain a precise moisture level in the product. They are used to help dry paint in very humid climates in an entire room (Home Depot actually merchandises them in the paint department). I have used this method on 2 of my own phones (an SCH a670 survived a full wash cycle in the washing machine, lol), my ex's grandmother's phone, one of my employee's phone and a laptop (glass of water dumped right into the keyboard while powered off, broke me of leaving the laptop on the kitchen counter though) over the last 5 years or so. I have used desiccants for the last 15 years to dry 10-15lbs of peppers every fall as well as many other odds and ends that needed drying. The most readily available, reliable, brand I have found is DampRid and you can get it at most hardware stores and even wal mart (on the laundry supply isle with irons and hangers, sold to put in the closet to keep clothes from mildewing in damp climates). Drierite is another readily available brand but it is not silica based, it is calcium sulfate. Technically it is a better desiccant in that it can absorb more water per unit weight but the thing I don't like about it is that as it absorbs water close to it's maximum it starts to clump together and makes it hard to re-use. Both can be recharged by baking at about 250 degrees for a few hours but once the drierite has clumped together it's surface area is greatly reduced and it is not as effective. 

In my experience, fresh desiccant can dry the average phone in less than 12 hours if done properly. Buy a 10+oz container of silica desiccant, place it and the phone in the smallest possible air tight container and leave it overnight. If the desiccant isn't freshly purchased and still sealed, recharge it first. The little packets in your shoe boxes, pill bottles, and beef jerky bags are already saturated, they wont do you much good unless you recharge them first.

And just as a side note, rice is not a hoax. It is not nearly as effective as silica gel or calcium sulfate but it will dry faster than leaving something in open air. Try another experiment: place a 1oz shotglass of water in a ziplock bag with about 2 cups of rice and place a second 1 oz shotglass of water on the counter next to it and see which one evaporates fastest. Try it and see for yourself.




_


I have tried it, in real world use, after dunking my cell phone in a river for several minutes. I put in in the sun for a few minutes on site, then packed it up, and put it in a bag of rice as soon as I got home. It had visible water behind the screen when I put it in the bag, and the next morning (about 10 hours later) it looked totally fine and fired up without any problems, have been using it for months now with no issues.

If you had said "there are better options available", I would agree. But calling it a hoax, and particularly stating that "it only draws moisture from a surface it is in direct contact with" is indeed flat wrong. Rather than stating an absolute, and not explaining why, next time please do some checking first. Again, it may not be the best option, but if a bag of rice is all you have, it works, and it is a lot better than just letting it air dry.


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## Capolini (Aug 27, 2013)

Tenebrae said:


> Hmm...would you describe him as a prima donna, Roberto? If so, I might have to reconsider my future modding plans.



I Wouldn't say that! He has a good reputation. It was my decision. I asked him about 20 questions and he took the time to answer them! He just didn't like when I told him that the only "Pro" was the light would be more powerful! You have to consider loss of warranty, cost, light gets hotter, run time diminishes, ect.

*Ciao,,, Roberto "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Capolini (Aug 27, 2013)

*UPDATE


I see a progression here in a POSITIVE direction. I am hopeful, but I am not getting my hopes up!

I have used the replacement TK-75 Three times on continuous TURBO for 62 minutes.

First time: Condensation[?] began forming in 12 minutes.
Second time: " " " " " " " " " " 25 minutes.
Third time: " " " " " " " " " 38 minutes.

If that pattern continues for a half dozen or more times, The mystery blob won't even be an issue when I use my battery kit ext. when the weather gets cooler and colder and my hikes increase in time w/ the Husky!* :thumbsup:
*
Another interesting observation. I examined the "Condensation like material" with a magnifying glass. A little smaller than a quarter and is oval shaped. I looked at it for about 3 or 4 minutes. It was actually dissipating a bit as I was doing this.

The best way I can describe it is, it looked like a thousand microdots. My Scientific guess is that is looks more like some "Chemical reaction" than any form of H2o. Hopefully I can get some other opinions on it. Teej lives an hour away, we may get together and he could become the Scientist!! *:thinking:
*
Ciao,,,Roberto,,, "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"
*


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## Tenebrae (Aug 27, 2013)

Good to hear, Roberto! Thanks for the update and for the earlier assessment. Very helpful!


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## Dark Slayer (Aug 28, 2013)

This time I let a dehumidifier blow air into it. A digital gauge showed 41% and dropping.

Into the freezer (light off) it goes. 20mins later when removed spot is there but it went away within a minute. 
Same test in the fridge with light off, NO spot. Before disassembly it did form a spot.
Same test in the fridge with light on turbo, kidney shaped spot roughly centered.

But on turbo with fan NO spot or spots. About the same result as blowing heated air into it. Before removing lens it would get small spots just above the leds. 

So it has seemed to help some.

Improvment:
In fridge, light off, no spot formed.
On turbo, tail standing with fan running, no spot formed.

No improvment:
Freezer light on or off.
Fridge light on.

Will have to wait till I get some nice cool nights and see what she does outside then. Thankfully I've had
no problems in actual use, so far.

Can't believe there isn't a ton of 75 users or some of the well known reviewers chiming in.

I also noticed that somewhere in the 3.8 ish cell volt range when turning it off when on turbo mine will default to high instead of turbo when I turn it back on. Kind of a little nudge to let you know you aren't there but your getting there.


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## Albert56 (Aug 30, 2013)

I received my new TK75 XM-L2 yesterday. After reading all these posts I was under the impression that this light has major problems beyond other flashlights in regard to moisture and condensation. So, today I placed it and my Olight SR-51, Thrunite TN31, 4 Sevens Maelstrom S-10, Jetbeam RRT-3, Eagletac TX25C2 and Nitecore SRT-7 in the freezer with the heads up for about 7 minutes or so. None of them had been turned on previously and all of them had been bought new and never disassembled. To my surprise, upon removal, e_very single one_ of them had some degree of condensation _inside_ the lens. The TK75 had the largest spot, but then again it has the largest head and presumably the greatest volume of air inside.

From the above it seems to me that this is a much more common occurrence than many of you might think and either (1) no manufacturer purges the moisture out of the heads before sealing, (2) the flashlights may not really be as impermeable to moisture as advertised, or (3) both.

I don't see why turning the flashlight on or off beforehand should make _any_ difference (provided we're talking about water vapor and not some other rather unlikely exotic compound), except that a warm lens will take longer to get cold enough to condense moisture on it than an already cool one. The same principal is used in objective lens heaters for telescopes in astronomy. 

I was all set to send my new light back if I encountered this issue, but now I've reconsidered, since several of my other lights do the same thing when tested and I've never had problems with them in actual real world use, even in winter in Wisconsin. For those who use their lights in truly extreme environments (like walk-in deep freezer meat inspectors), maybe this is a deal breaker, but for rest of us I don't see why it should hinder the use of this otherwise very impressive flashlight. 

Try the simple experiment above with some of the your other lights and see what you find.


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## NeedMoreLight (Aug 30, 2013)

Thanks Albert... I'm still waiting on mine. Hasn't been quite 2 weeks, and can't wait to use it. Ordered the extension also.


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## Capolini (Aug 30, 2013)

The only thing that MATTERS to me is REAL LIFE use! 

I realize that putting them in the freezer may simulate a cold winters night. 

For me the condensation issues UNDER the lens have happened in the warmer weather[spring/summer] in Pennsylvania. I started noticing condensation on the original one in June. NEVER noticed it in the winter!

I received the replacement one on 8.24.2013.As you can see by my post #77 condensation started to happen IMMEDIATELY[ in terms of use] on the light. Last night it started getting that "Oval" shaped mystery substance at the 31 minute mark on turbo! The most I use it is for 62 consecutive minutes, all on Turbo, then it steps down because the batteries are weakening. 

What is going to happen when I use the Battery ext. in the cooler months ahead?? Is the "Blob" going to grow and cover more of the lens affecting the beam profile??? I guess I will find out then!!

The good news is, as of today, the "Blob" has not affected the beam profile. If that continues, then all of this doesn't matter! That is what I am hoping for because I do not want to send another back!

I do love the rest of the performance of the torch.

*Ciao,,, Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Albert56 (Aug 30, 2013)

Capolini said:


> For me the condensation issues UNDER the lens have happened in the warmer weather[spring/summer] in Pennsylvania. I started noticing condensation on the original one in June. NEVER noticed it in the winter!



That is _really_ strange! If we we're talking about just _water vapor _inside the head then running the light that long on turbo should if anything dry it out because of the heat.

To be clear though, does the condensate form _while_ the light is on? If so then it _could_ be some unknown substance in the plastic parts of the head or reflector that is outgasing, condensing on the relatively cooler lens and then slowly evaporating again over time - but if that were the case, you'd still expect it to be _worse_ in the _winter_. Quite a mystery. I've never run any light that long on turbo, so I don't know if this is unique to the TK75/RC40 or not.


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## Capolini (Aug 30, 2013)

Albert56 said:


> That is _really_ strange! If we we're talking about just _water vapor _inside the head then running the light that long on turbo should if anything dry it out because of the heat.
> 
> To be clear though, does the condensate form _while_ the light is on? If so then it _could_ be some unknown substance in the plastic parts of the head or reflector that is outgasing, condensing on the relatively cooler lens and then slowly evaporating again over time - but if that were the case, you'd still expect it to be _worse_ in the _winter_. Quite a mystery. I've never run any light that long on turbo, so I don't know if this is unique to the TK75/RC40 or not.


 
Of course it is happening while I am running it! All my data on here refers to that.

It probably is some "Unknown substance/chemical" that is causing this.

Further back in this thread a guy talks about his RC-40. His condensation problems were worse! It affected the beam profile so much and caused other damage to the light. He posted a pic. illustrating that! Scroll through this thread, it will be easy to find by the picture[mickey mouse look!] he posted. *It is POST # 31.*

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Albert56 (Aug 30, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Of course it is happening while I am running it! All my data on here refers to that.
> 
> It probably is some "Unknown substance/chemical" that is causing this.
> 
> ...



Well, I hope you can figure out a way to solve the problem. In the meantime I hope purchasers of the new XM-L2 version are free of this annoyance. I guess only time and turbo will tell! Good luck.


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## Capolini (Aug 30, 2013)

Albert56 said:


> Well, I hope you can figure out a way to solve the problem. In the meantime I hope purchasers of the new XM-L2 version are free of this annoyance. I guess only time and turbo will tell! Good luck.



Thanks!! Good luck with yours also! 

I know MOST people do not use turbo like me, but this "Mystery Blob" still should not be forming. Whether I use for 12 minutes[mystery blob first formed at this point on NEW torch] on turbo or 62 minutes of continuous turbo!

I am a Bright light up the woods freak!!!I don't use turbo to walk the Siberian/Wolf in neighborhoods, I am hiking trails way out in the country or in the Mts.!

Like I said before, I like everything else about the light!

Tonight I am going to use a bit of a "copycat" "tiny Monster",,,only the BST [Black Shadow Terminator] only cost $105.00 on sale. It Puts out about 3500 lumens, a wall of light. Certainly does not have the beam intensity[candelas] of the TK-75, but has more flood/ spill.


*Ciao,,, Roberto "Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"......without the "Mystery Blob"!!!*:mecry::laughing:lovecpf
Have a great and safe Holiday everybody!:thumbsup:


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## Etsu (Aug 30, 2013)

It sure doesn't sound like water, but given the description, what else could it be?

Are there some parts in the flashlight head that are absorbent? That might explain the excess in water when you use the light for a long time. The absorbent parts heat up enough that they evaporate the water in them, which then condenses on the only cool part in the head (the lens).

If it was only a humidity issue, then turning the light on would actually cause the relative humidity inside the head to drop, not go up, and you wouldn't get condensation on the lens.

So it has to be an excess amount of water sticking around inside the head, which is only evaporated at high heat levels. It's got to be trapped in some part, or you'd be able to see the water if you tilted the light upside down (when cool).


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## Capolini (Aug 30, 2013)

Etsu said:


> It sure doesn't sound like water, but given the description, what else could it be?
> 
> Are there some parts in the flashlight head that are absorbent? That might explain the excess in water when you use the light for a long time. The absorbent parts heat up enough that they evaporate the water in them, which then condenses on the only cool part in the head (the lens).
> 
> ...




See my post #77, especially the part where I examined the "Blob" with a magnifying glass!

I am ready for an Insane asylum after ALL this information!! Some of it repetitive in nature!!!:shakehead:hahaha:

*ITS ALL GOOD!!!

Ciao,,,,Roberto,,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"

P.S. My pooch has "Lip fold Pyoderma"!!!I did research on it for a few hours and when I went to the VET yesterday, he said I was right! Look that one up!! I am getting a special ointment that originated from Germany that seems to work better than anything else! Found it on a German Shepherd **website*!:twothumbs


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## Etsu (Aug 30, 2013)

Capolini said:


> See my post #77, especially the part where I examined the "Blob" with a magnifying glass!



Yeah, that's why I said it doesn't seem like water from your description. But, I don't see how another chemical would condense and evaporate so cleanly. Nor would some reaction that is affecting the glass lens.

I dunno. Weird.


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## Capolini (Aug 30, 2013)

Etsu said:


> Yeah, that's why I said it doesn't seem like water from your description. But, I don't see how another chemical would condense and evaporate so cleanly. Nor would some reaction that is affecting the glass lens.
> 
> I dunno. Weird.



I will have Dr. Cuttarelli examine it and get a diagnosis!

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Albert56 (Aug 30, 2013)

I agree that the condensation issue aside, this is a very nice and reasonably priced light. It feels good in the hand and the buttons are practically placed. It has slightly less area spill close up than my RRT-3 Jetbeam on turbo, but it more than makes up for that in throw and overall lumen output.

Still, I think that high end flashlight manufactures should place more importance on problems like this. As Capolini pointed out, some people *do* use their lights more intensely than others and the flashlight should still perform as designed. Perhaps Fenix has picked up on the scuttlebutt and quietly corrected the issue on the new TK75 version and future production of the RC40. I'm sure we'll find out as more people purchase them. For now at least I'm satisfied with mine.


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## Capolini (Aug 30, 2013)

Albert56 said:


> I agree that the condensation issue aside, this is a very nice and reasonably priced light. It feels good in the hand and the buttons are practically placed. It has slightly less area spill close up than my RRT-3 Jetbeam on turbo, but it more than makes up for that in throw and overall lumen output.
> 
> Still, I think that high end flashlight manufactures should place more importance on problems like this. As Capolini pointed out, some people *do* use their lights more intensely than others and the flashlight should still perform as designed. Perhaps Fenix has picked up on the scuttlebutt and quietly corrected the issue on the new TK75 version and future production of the RC40. I'm sure we'll find out as more people purchase them. For now at least I'm satisfied with mine.


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## Capolini (Aug 30, 2013)

Albert56 said:


> I agree that the condensation issue aside, this is a very nice and reasonably priced light. It feels good in the hand and the buttons are practically placed. It has slightly less area spill close up than my RRT-3 Jetbeam on turbo, but it more than makes up for that in throw and overall lumen output.
> 
> Still, I think that high end flashlight manufactures should place more importance on problems like this. As Capolini pointed out, some people *do* use their lights more intensely than others and the flashlight should still perform as designed. Perhaps Fenix has picked up on the scuttlebutt and quietly corrected the issue on the new TK75 version and future production of the RC40. I'm sure we'll find out as more people purchase them. For now at least I'm satisfied with mine.


 

Don't get your hopes up!! If you read my Initial post that started this "thread" , you will see that Fenix[ main HQ in China] told me that the "Condensation issue" is NORMAL,,,,,,They have no intentions on correcting the problem. All I know is that what would have been Three lights in a row that I got had this SAME PROBLEM!! The second one was never shipped to me because it FAILED the test at the dealers warehouse!
Post # 92!!!! I guess I hit the button b/4 I typed anything in!!

Anyway, have you used yours on "Turbo" for any extended length? I mean actual use, not turning it on for 25 minutes in your house to check run time!

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Albert56 (Aug 30, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Don't get your hopes up!! If you read my Initial post that started this "thread" , you will see that Fenix[ main HQ in China] told me that the "Condensation issue" is NORMAL,,,,,,They have no intentions on correcting the problem. All I know is that what would have been Three lights in a row that I got had this SAME PROBLEM!! The second one was never shipped to me because it FAILED the test at the dealers warehouse!
> Post # 92!!!! I guess I hit the button b/4 I typed anything in!!
> 
> Anyway, have you used yours on "Turbo" for any extended length? I mean actual use, not turning it on for 25 minutes in your house to check run time!
> ...



That's rather disheartening. Seems they figure working to correct the issue isn't worth the time and money as long as people keep buying the product and not too many of them complain. It _is _possible that they just don't want to admit fault but are looking into it behind the scenes for future production (?). We can hope can't we? 

Actually, it's pretty unlikely that I'd ever find myself using turbo continuously anywhere nearly as long as you do for my needs (security work) Perhaps 5-10 minutes would be the most I'd see having it on at any given time. Also, if I did need to have it on for much more extended periods, I'd probably kick it down a notch to the next setting to conserve juice.

That said, I still don't see why users like you shouldn't be able get worry free extended run times if needed - _especially since Fenix offers an optional kit for exactly that purpose!_ Seems kind of ironic, doesn't it?


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## LFP11 (Aug 31, 2013)

I use my TK75 first time after summer four days ago. Temperature was +10 celsius and after 15 min on turbo inside lens wás 10x20mm fog asea. I put dry siligagel bag inside battery camber (three days) and yseterday temp was again +10C and there wasn´t any fog. So head is not hermetic sealed because siligagel helps. I notice this fog problem last winter and I could send it back but I like light so much that I decide to keep it. My old TK40 has same fog problem and siligagel helps with this light too.


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## Capolini (Aug 31, 2013)

Thanks,,,,,I will try that. I use mine 4 or 5 days a week. I will have to rest it Three days like you did and see what happens! I have a few sufficient lights for backup! The BST[Black Shadow Terminator], Jetbeam BC-40 which is plenty of light to walk the Husky/Wolf!!!

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Capolini (Aug 31, 2013)

Albert56 said:


> That's rather disheartening. Seems they figure working to correct the issue isn't worth the time and money as long as people keep buying the product and not too many of them complain. It _is _possible that they just don't want to admit fault but are looking into it behind the scenes for future production (?). We can hope can't we?
> 
> Actually, it's pretty unlikely that I'd ever find myself using turbo continuously anywhere nearly as long as you do for my needs (security work) Perhaps 5-10 minutes would be the most I'd see having it on at any given time. Also, if I did need to have it on for much more extended periods, I'd probably kick it down a notch to the next setting to conserve juice.
> 
> That said, I still don't see why users like you shouldn't be able get worry free extended run times if needed - _especially since Fenix offers an optional kit for exactly that purpose!_ Seems kind of ironic, doesn't it?


 I hear you, young man!!!

When the weather cools, gets colder and darker earlier, I will be walking the Husky longer. I will have my Battery Ext. kit so I can use it for 1 hour 54 minutes ON TURBO!

[I tested it at that!] Believe me I want to use it! I have Eight[8] Panasonic 3400 cells in storage just for that purpose!I am nuts!! That is a decent chunk of money sitting around! 

if I want! Capo[Husky] obviously loves the colder weather. He and his girlfriend can pull me on a sled!

Anyway, time will tell if the condensation issue becomes more of a problem.

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Capolini (Aug 31, 2013)

LFP11 said:


> I use my TK75 first time after summer four days ago. Temperature was +10 celsius and after 15 min on turbo inside lens wás 10x20mm fog asea. I put dry siligagel bag inside battery camber (three days) and yseterday temp was again +10C and there wasn´t any fog. So head is not hermetic sealed because siligagel helps. I notice this fog problem last winter and I could send it back but I like light so much that I decide to keep it. My old TK40 has same fog problem and siligagel helps with this light too.




So did you just put the tail cap on with the silica gel in the chamber? Or did you do that and also put the entire light in a sealed zip lock bag?

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Etsu (Aug 31, 2013)

Capolini said:


> When the weather cools, gets colder and darker earlier, I will be walking the Husky longer. I will have my Battery Ext. kit so I can use it for 1 hour 54 minutes ON TURBO!
> 
> Anyway, time will tell if the condensation issue becomes more of a problem.



If humidity getting inside the light is really the problem, you may find it gets better in the winter. The air is dry, and so humidity shouldn't be an issue. Of course, the lens will be colder in the winter, and thus condensation will occur more easily, but we'll see what happens.


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## LFP11 (Aug 31, 2013)

Capolini said:


> So did you just put the tail cap on with the silica gel in the chamber? Or did you do that and also put the entire light in a sealed zip lock bag?


I just put silica gel bag in chamber and close tail cap. You must use dry silica gel. I put my small "do not eat"(comes ith electronic devices) bags to 120C (about 240F) owen for 1 h to make sure that these are dry.


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## Capolini (Sep 15, 2013)

LFP11 said:


> I use my TK75 first time after summer four days ago. Temperature was +10 celsius and after 15 min on turbo inside lens wás 10x20mm fog asea. I put dry siligagel bag inside battery camber (three days) and yseterday temp was again +10C and there wasn´t any fog. So head is not hermetic sealed because siligagel helps. I notice this fog problem last winter and I could send it back but I like light so much that I decide to keep it. My old TK40 has same fog problem and siligagel helps with this light too.



I tried silica test with my TK-75 tonight,,,,,,,,,*IT FAILED! It failed in regards to NOT FORMING AT ALL!

What is the longest that you have continuously ran yours on turbo without condensation??? 15 Minutes like you said above?

I run mine between 52 and 62 minutes of turbo each time I use it. When it "steps down" I immediately step it back up!

Tonight it lasted 41 minutes on turbo before "condensation" formed. Previous record was 38 minutes on several occasions.* *At least there was a 3 minute improvement!

p.s. I did NOT put these silica gel packs in the oven first because they are brand new and came in a "sealed" bag. After I use them all, then I will put in oven to dry out.
*


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## xed888 (Sep 15, 2013)

Try drying them in an oven first and then using them. In my workplace, we do this all the time. Dry first then use.


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## Etsu (Sep 16, 2013)

Humidity is dropping now that summer is over. You may not need the silica trick until next year.


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## subwoofer (Sep 16, 2013)

Just caught up with this thread, and it raises a few points I have been thinking about.

Is the head really sealed? - Many of the lights I receive have a silica gel packed in the battery tube when they arrive (I think the TK75 might have had this). The battery tube, if sealed off from the head, doesn't really need this, so maybe there is a path for air to move in and out of the head via the battery tube???

If the head and battery tube are linked by an airway, however small, then the chance of fogging in the head is always there.

Think about a really hot humid day, and forget the actual air humidity, and think more about your hands. Are they sweaty? Are you placing damp batteries inside the battery tube? I have certainly had to stop myself from time to time, dry off the batteries with a cloth and use the same cloth to handle them and get them into the battery tube. If you seal damp batteries into the battery tube, eventually this water vapour will diffuse into the head and reflector. Fully drying out the light becomes difficult as the diffusion in and out of the head will be very slow.

To get the moisture out of the head you would need to leave the battery tube cap off, and apply gentle heat to the head (maybe rest it on a radiator) to evaporate and push the moisture out of the head.

I am not prepared to take a TK75 head (with no battery tube) and drop it into water to see if it is sealed, but I suspect even if the head assembly is threadlocked, the head is not hermetically sealed. This means it matters what you put into the battery tube (damp batteries being the main example) matters. Once you get moisture into the head, it then becomes difficult to get it out, and in a sealed system it just goes round and round.

My approach would be to run the light on turbo for some time to get it nice and hot, then switch off and remove the tail-cap and battery pack, leaving it in an area with low humidity. Make sure you replace a perfectly dry battery pack, reseal, re-run and re-open. The heat in the head should help drive the water vapour out of the head.

The reason I say this is that having noticed this fogging feature myself, following this method, I have seen reduction or elimination of this phenomenon. It was not only Fenix Lights that were affected.


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## Capolini (Sep 16, 2013)

Etsu said:


> Humidity is dropping now that summer is over. You may not need the silica trick until next year.



The time of year seems to NOT have affected this!! It has been doing this since last January[Two different TK-75'S!]

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Capolini (Sep 16, 2013)

subwoofer said:


> Just caught up with this thread, and it raises a few points I have been thinking about.
> 
> Is the head really sealed? - Many of the lights I receive have a silica gel packed in the battery tube when they arrive (I think the TK75 might have had this). The battery tube, if sealed off from the head, doesn't really need this, so maybe there is a path for air to move in and out of the head via the battery tube???
> 
> ...



subwoofer,thanks for your insight and suggestions.

I would also think the heat in the head should drive the vapor out! However, that has not been the case. The vapor disappears "ONLY" after the light has been off for about 15 minutes. Once the vapor starts, it DOES NOT disappear when the light is on!

I can try your battery pack idea since I have an extra battery kit w/ 8 more 18650's! I hope I am wrong, but my guess is the condensation will stay there until the light is off as I mentioned above.

I am not giving up on the silica solution. Even though the ones I received were SEALED and ready for use, when I kept them in the battery tube for Three days as suggested by LFP11, it did not work.Or you can say that is worked for 41 minutes, but that really is not true! So when I got home last night I put all 12 packets in the oven[another suggestion!] at 275 degrees F. for an hour. I have one in the Battery tube now and I will keep it there for 72 hours and test it again!

All in all,I was able to get 41 minutes[as I already mentioned] of consecutive turbo last night b/4 condensation formed. 3 minutes longer than my previous best! So this is NOT a major issue as of yet. If it does become one, Fenix outfitters will take care of me!! They are very nice and know me well by now!

Lastly, one thing I am NOT going to do is to continuously keep my torch out of use for 3 days with this silica experiment! I will keep it in while I am NOT using it. I WILL alternate with my BST!

*Ciao,,,Roberto,,,"Capo di Capo" "KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"

p.s My TK-75'S did NOT have silica gel in the battery tube when I got them. My EA4 did!
*


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## Capolini (Sep 22, 2013)

LFP11 said:


> I use my TK75 first time after summer four days ago. Temperature was +10 celsius and after 15 min on turbo inside lens wás 10x20mm fog asea. I put dry siligagel bag inside battery camber (three days) and yseterday temp was again +10C and there wasn´t any fog. So head is not hermetic sealed because siligagel helps. I notice this fog problem last winter and I could send it back but I like light so much that I decide to keep it. My old TK40 has same fog problem and siligagel helps with this light too.



*It APPEARS that I have eradicated the "Condensation Issues" with the help and suggestions of "LFP11"!!

I heard of silica gel and it's way of drawing out moisture. But it took LPF11'S suggestion for me to try it. Mostly because it worked and he has a TK-75 that he used it on.

-Silica gel in oven at 275 F. for One hour to make sure all moisture is out.
-Put one packet in Battery tube for 3 days
-Ran light for 62 consecutive minutes on TURBO-NO CONDENSATION FORMED!!

Repeated same process. Tonight I got the SAME RESULTS! 62 minutes of Turbo-NO CONDENSATION UNDER LENS!*
:twothumbs*
Head must not be hermetically sealed as LFP11 indicates above!

THANKS LFP11!! *:thanks::thumbsup:


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## Kabible (Sep 22, 2013)

I went a different way on the silica gel idea. Used a small package of it from a pill bottle. Placed it on the back end of the battery cartridge and screwed the tail cap down until snug. No fogging.


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## subwoofer (Sep 23, 2013)

Capolini said:


> *
> Head must not be hermetically sealed as LFP11 indicates above!
> *



Glad you got the result you wanted, I was positive the head was not sealed.

As you appear to have had more fogging than most, perhaps think about the point I mentioned about installing damp batteries. I did not need to use silica gel, as just being careful about sweaty hands handling the batteries when it is hot and humid, sorted it for me.


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## blah9 (Sep 23, 2013)

Thank you guys for figuring this out! I haven't had much fogging trouble, but I'm also not as heavy of a user. I'll be keeping this in mind for the future though.


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## Capolini (Sep 23, 2013)

Kabible said:


> I went a different way on the silica gel idea. Used a small package of it from a pill bottle. Placed it on the back end of the battery cartridge and screwed the tail cap down until snug. No fogging.


 Glad that worked for you. I am a bit confused with your idea!

Was this for a TK-75? Did you let it sit for a few days or put the small silica packet in there and "use" the light??

The end cap must put pressure on the battery tube for connection purposes and for it to seal it for water proofing. Unless you let the light sit with your method, I would think the silica packet would get crushed and therefore be useless. Also I am surprised that it would remove moisture from "Under the lens" from where it is located if it did not get crushed!


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## Capolini (Sep 23, 2013)

subwoofer said:


> Glad you got the result you wanted, I was positive the head was not sealed.
> 
> As you appear to have had more fogging than most, perhaps think about the point I mentioned about installing damp batteries. I did not need to use silica gel, as just being careful about sweaty hands handling the batteries when it is hot and humid, sorted it for me.



Thanks for all you help.

I understand what your saying and will keep that in mind.

For my situation I do not think that damp batteries and sweaty hands were the issue.

This is why. When I had the silica packet in the battery chamber for Three days, the Batteries and the carrier were not in the light. The batteries sat out. After Three days, I tested the batteries again[volt meter] put them in the battery carrier and took my walk with the Siberian for 62 minutes of turbo with no condensation issue under the lens.

I repeated the same process and last night the same results.

My thinking is if the batteries and my hands were damp/moist, then the Three days of silica gel in the tube probably would not have done the trick. as soon as installed moist/damp batteries, I would have gotten condensation again.


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## Kabible (Sep 23, 2013)

Deleted


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## Kabible (Sep 23, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Glad that worked for you. I am a bit confused with your idea!
> 
> Was this for a TK-75? Did you let it sit for a few days or put the small silica packet in there and "use" the light??
> 
> The end cap must put pressure on the battery tube for connection purposes and for it to seal it for water proofing. Unless you let the light sit with your method, I would think the silica packet would get crushed and therefore be useless. Also I am surprised that it would remove moisture from "Under the lens" from where it is located if it did not get crushed!



I had not seen the fogging on my TK75vn until using it on turbo longer than I usually do. I did dry a silica packet and leave it in the light overnight without the battery cartridge. In addition, I used a small packet from a pill bottle between the Batt. cartridge and tail cap. The cap won't screw all the way down but then it doesn't need to as the +/- contacts are both on the other end of the cartridge. I just screwed it down until it snugged up against the silica packet. Without the packet in place, the cap would only go another 1/4-1/2 turn anyway. The tail cap engages the "O" ring long before that and seals the light. 
The cartridge does not fit so tight in the lights body that air/moisture can not reach the silica if there is any left.


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## Capolini (Sep 23, 2013)

Kabible said:


> I had not seen the fogging on my TK75vn until using it on turbo longer than I usually do. I did dry a silica packet and leave it in the light overnight without the battery cartridge. In addition, I used a small packet from a pill bottle between the Batt. cartridge and tail cap. The cap won't screw all the way down but then it doesn't need to as the +/- contacts are both on the other end of the cartridge. I just screwed it down until it snugged up against the silica packet. Without the packet in place, the cap would only go another 1/4-1/2 turn anyway. The tail cap engages the "O" ring long before that and seals the light.
> The cartridge does not fit so tight in the lights body that air/moisture can not reach the silica if there is any left.



ok,thanks,I understand it better now!!

So do you continue to use this method[silica packet in between tail cap and battery holder] every time you use your TK-75 so moisture won't build up?

When i use my TK-75 it is ALWAYS used for 52 to 62 minutes of continuous turbo!

I am thinking that every time I am done using my light, I am putting a silica packet in it. But what I don't want to do is wait every 3 days to use my light. That is what I have done twice. I do have one of those smaller pill bottle packets like you. I can keep the bigger packet in over night and/or when I am not using it then use your method in case the overnight method was not enough to take and keep the moisture out!


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## Kabible (Sep 24, 2013)

Capolini said:


> So do you continue to use this method[silica packet in between tail cap and battery holder] every time you use your TK-75 so moisture won't build up?



Right. I live in a So.Kal mountain area where it's fairly dry most of the time. The only night mine fogged was with Approx 65-70% humidity.


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## Svoloch88 (Sep 24, 2013)

I too have worried about this issue. I tested it out by blowing AC air on all my lights when they were in turbo mode and sure enough condensation INSIDE formed. Honestly, aside from getting a little less throw and more flood, there shouldn't be that big of an issue. I have read that unscrewing the head and putting it into a rice bag for a few days works. Try it and post results.


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## Capolini (Sep 24, 2013)

Svoloch88 said:


> I too have worried about this issue. I tested it out by blowing AC air on all my lights when they were in turbo mode and sure enough condensation INSIDE formed. Honestly, aside from getting a little less throw and more flood, there shouldn't be that big of an issue. I have read that unscrewing the head and putting it into a rice bag for a few days works. Try it and post results.


 read post #107


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## blerkoid (Oct 2, 2013)

I just got my TK75 and I am experiencing the fogging issues as well. I am extremely new to the flashlight world, so maybe someone can dumb down the whole "silica gel" thing for me?

Do you only need to do this one time?
Where can I buy silica gel?
Are there pictures showing the exact location to place the gel?

I would really prefer to not send the light back (because I instantly fell in love with it), but I will if there is a chance the next one will not fog. If the solution is too extensive perhaps another light can fill the gap 

Thanks in advance! You guys are always so helpful!


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## subwoofer (Oct 3, 2013)

blerkoid said:


> I just got my TK75 and I am experiencing the fogging issues as well. I am extremely new to the flashlight world, so maybe someone can dumb down the whole "silica gel" thing for me?
> 
> Do you only need to do this one time?
> Where can I buy silica gel?
> ...



Most electronics and many other products include the sachets of 'Do not Eat - Silica gel' which is exactly what you need.

Read the whole of this thread for some more info.

Make sure you don't insert damp batteries (due to sweaty hands) to prevent recurrence.


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## Jakeyb (Oct 3, 2013)

There shouldn't be any condensation in this light. It's unacceptable and is most certainly not normal. You should be able to use this light on any setting for any amount of time til the batteries are dead.


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## Jakeyb (Oct 3, 2013)

LFP11 said:


> I just put silica gel bag in chamber and close tail cap. You must use dry silica gel. I put my small "do not eat"(comes ith electronic devices) bags to 120C (about 240F) owen for 1 h to make sure that these are dry.


Lots of times lights ship with silica already inserted in the battery tube.


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## blerkoid (Oct 3, 2013)

subwoofer said:


> Most electronics and many other products include the sachets of 'Do not Eat - Silica gel' which is exactly what you need.
> 
> Read the whole of this thread for some more info.
> 
> Make sure you don't insert damp batteries (due to sweaty hands) to prevent recurrence.



Thank you for your reply!

I did not receive any silica gel with my TK75, but I am sure I can find it somewhere. Once I find some in the non-plactic wrapping then I will cook it at 275(?) and put it between the head of the light and the battery holder. Do I put the bottom cover on the light as well?

My biggest question now would be: how many times does this process need to be done? Does anyone have experience with using this fix and then seeing fog again?

I appreciate all your help! Thanks!


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## Etsu (Oct 3, 2013)

Jakeyb said:


> There shouldn't be any condensation in this light. It's unacceptable and is most certainly not normal. You should be able to use this light on any setting for any amount of time til the batteries are dead.



Yeah, but it seems that this light puts some spell on owners, and they refuse to return it for a refund. I've never used one, but it must be a hell of a good light for people to put up with this fogging issue, and the potential for longer-term problems from moisture being forced inside the head.

I'm not sure whether Fenix deserves a thumbs-up or thumbs-down.


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## NorthernStar (Oct 3, 2013)

Jakeyb said:


> There shouldn't be any condensation in this light. It's unacceptable and is most certainly not normal. You should be able to use this light on any setting for any amount of time til the batteries are dead.



I agree 100%! This is why i have not yet baught any TK75 since Fenix has not yet given any respond about what causes this issue and how they will solve it. Yet i don´t know if the condensation issue is only on the old version or if it has been issues of it on the upgraded TK75 as well.

On a light with a retailprice of 200US$ one could expect that issues such as condense under the lens should not appear.

I have my eyes on a dealer at Ebay who sells the TK75-L2(the upgraded one) with 4x18650 batteries and a charger to a good price and i am considering it,but i will wait with my purchase untill i know more about this condensation issue and if it has been an issue of it on the upgraded TK75 as well.

One thing for sure is that if i received a TK75 that has the condensation issue,i would not put it the freezer or putting in silica gel in it-i would return it to the dealer immediately! It´s not the customer who should have to deal with any issues like this with their lights. It falls under the warranty which one has paid for in the first place.


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## blerkoid (Oct 3, 2013)

NorthernStar said:


> I agree 100%! This is why i have not yet baught any TK75 since Fenix has not yet given any respond about what causes this issue and how they will solve it. Yet i don´t know if the condensation issue is only on the old version or if it has been issues of it on the upgraded TK75 as well.
> On a light with a retailprice of 200US$ one could expect that issues such as condense under the lens should not appear.
> I have my eyes on a dealer at Ebay who sells the TK75-L2(the upgraded one) with 4x18650 batteries and a charger to a good price and i am considering it,but i will wait with my purchase untill i know more about this condensation issue and if it has been an issue of it on the upgraded TK75 as well.
> One thing for sure is that if i received a TK75 that has the condensation issue,i would not put it the freezer or putting in silica gel in it-i would return it to the dealer immediately! It´s not the customer who should have to deal with any issues like this with their lights. It falls under the warranty which one has paid for in the first place.



This issue is also happening on the upgraded 2900Lm model.

I agree that the customer should not have to fix this issue. My dilemma is that I love the light and it seems like a lot of them are recieving this complaint. So if I return it for another one with the same problem then I am just going to be searching for another light.


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## blerkoid (Oct 3, 2013)

Capolini said:


> *It APPEARS that I have eradicated the "Condensation Issues" with the help and suggestions of "LFP11"!!
> 
> I heard of silica gel and it's way of drawing out moisture. But it took LPF11'S suggestion for me to try it. Mostly because it worked and he has a TK-75 that he used it on.
> 
> ...



Hi Capolini!

Did you also put the light in a sealed bag?

Also could you please clarify the exact location that you put the silica gel pack? Was it in the battery holder or as close to the head of the light as possible (inside the battery tube)?

I only have a limited time before I decide to ship it back or keep it, so I am hoping to try this tonight 

Thanks


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## Capolini (Oct 4, 2013)

Etsu said:


> Yeah, but it seems that this light puts some spell on owners, and they refuse to return it for a refund. I've never used one, but it must be a hell of a good light for people to put up with this fogging issue, and the potential for longer-term problems from moisture being forced inside the head.
> 
> I'm not sure whether Fenix deserves a thumbs-up or thumbs-down.



I returned mine and Fenix Outfitters replaced a 10 month old light for free! Fenix outfitters deserves a :thumbsup:. They were very accommodating.

As I indicated in earlier posts. my CONDENSATION ISSUE is resolved! When NOT in use I keep a packet of silica gel inside battery chamber so no moisture will get inside while it is idle!

I have used the light more than a half a dozen times, on turbo for 62 consecutive minutes[minus every 25/30 min. step downs] With NO CONDENSATION WHATSOEVER!


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## Capolini (Oct 4, 2013)

*ATTENTION:BLERKOID! I FORGOT TO QUOTE YOU. THIS IS FOR YOU!

*The light does not need to be in a sealed bag. Just put a packet of silica gel in the BATTERY TUBE with end cap on securely.

I bought Ten[10] 3 gram packets for only $5.00 on Ebay. I put in oven at 275F. for 1 hour,then they were absolutely dried out. I just used one packet in the battery chamber

Make sure you take out the battery carrier and batteries!

After I did this for 3 days and got success, then I kept the silica gel in Batt. tube for 2 days,success again. Now,I can use it every night if I want and when not in use[just to make sure] I keep the silica packet in the EMPTY battery tube.

This is just me. after each use of silica packet I put them in a separate[ marked used] baggy. when I get 8 or 9 I put back in the oven and start the process all over again.

good luck,it is a great torch!:thumbsup:


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## blerkoid (Oct 5, 2013)

Capolini said:


> *ATTENTION:BLERKOID! I FORGOT TO QUOTE YOU. THIS IS FOR YOU!
> 
> *The light does not need to be in a sealed bag. Just put a packet of silica gel in the BATTERY TUBE with end cap on securely.
> 
> ...



Thanks very much Capolini! This is very helpful! I am trying the silica trick tonight. I will have to buy more for a more constant solution. How did you know that you could put your silica gel packets in the oven?

Thanks again man! This is a huge help


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## Capolini (Oct 5, 2013)

blerkoid said:


> Thanks very much Capolini! This is very helpful! I am trying the silica trick tonight. I will have to buy more for a more constant solution. How did you know that you could put your silica gel packets in the oven?
> 
> Thanks again man! This is a huge help



Your welcome! That is what we are here for, people helped me!

When I researched Silica Gel I found that[Putting in oven] information on a few websites,,,,also, People on here told me.I saw anywhere from 200F to 275 F. for an hour. 275 F. worked fine for me. There was NO ISSUE as far as the packet burning!

Remember that book Fahrenheit 451 by Ray Bradbury??? That is the temp. paper burns,,,,,,,,this is well below that and apparently a safe temperature for the silica gel inside as my results indicated!

As I said, I got Ten [10] Three[3] gram packets for $4.69 including shipping!!The 3 gram packets are perfect for the battery tube of the TK-75. If you are not able to get that size and have to get smaller ones[1 or 2 gram packets], just use a few of them I bought it on amazon from "Minuteman Supply" . You can find numerous dealers on amazon.

I would think you will get the same results as I did.Remember, once the Condensation is removed, just keep one in the battery tube while you are not using it. You will be able to use it every night if you want once the condensation is eradicated and[again!] using a packet in the tube when not in use for general maintenance and peace of mind!

This is just the way I do it and it has worked for me! I have Ten packets, I may as well use them. Instead of waiting a week or Two to use the packets again, they are always in the Battery Tube when the torch is not in use, therefore condensation never gets the opportunity to rebuild! So far so Good!:thumbsup:

p.s. I certainly AGREE that the consumer should not have to be bothered by this!
I will say this, my condensation issue never affected the beam profile, was about the size of a large nickel.Dissipated 15 min. after light was off.

Fenix outfitters replaced my original and if this replacement lights beam profile was ever seriously affected or electronic devices of the light failed, they would have refunded me.So as a pain in the A.. as the whole ordeal has been, it really is a pleasure to look at the lens and see no condensation after seeing it since last December when I bought the original light! 

Putting the packet in the chamber while not in use[my choice] is really not a big deal. I only use a packet once, then every 2 or 3 weeks back in the oven again!


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## blerkoid (Oct 5, 2013)

The packets that I first tried to cook shriveled up :shrug: I must have had the wrong type, I guess. I just took them out of the packaging and cooked them and wrapped them in a coffee filter.


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## Capolini (Oct 5, 2013)

blerkoid said:


> The packets that I first tried to cook shriveled up :shrug: I must have had the wrong type, I guess. I just took them out of the packaging and cooked them and wrapped them in a coffee filter.



WHAT???!!!! That is baffling! If you google "silica gel dry packets" you will see several choices on Amazon.


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## Jakeyb (Oct 7, 2013)

NorthernStar said:


> I agree 100%! This is why i have not yet baught any TK75 since Fenix has not yet given any respond about what causes this issue and how they will solve it. Yet i don´t know if the condensation issue is only on the old version or if it has been issues of it on the upgraded TK75 as well.
> 
> On a light with a retailprice of 200US$ one could expect that issues such as condense under the lens should not appear.
> 
> ...


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## Capolini (Oct 7, 2013)

NorthernStar said:


> I agree 100%! This is why i have not yet baught any TK75 since Fenix has not yet given any respond about what causes this issue and how they will solve it. Yet i don´t know if the condensation issue is only on the old version or if it has been issues of it on the upgraded TK75 as well.
> 
> On a light with a retailprice of 200US$ one could expect that issues such as condense under the lens should not appear.
> 
> ...



Don't EXPECT Fenix to address the issue!!

I communicated with "Nicole" from main HQ when I was having condensation problems with my original TK-75. She said that this is normal!! Some bs that because of the heat generated,,blah, blah,blah! That is their way of saying, there is nothing wrong, therefore we are not going to do anything about it!

There is no doubt it is not hermetically sealed and more than likely this condensation originated when it was manufactured!

I love the light! So, I fought a battle, now it is clear sailing! :thumbsup:

I will also mention this again, Fenix Outfitters have been very accommodating and worked with me through this whole process!

I agree that the consumer should not have spent time communicating back and forth, getting frustrated, ect.and then having to buy silica gel to resolve the issue.

For me the worst is over. The condensation is non existent since I started my silica gel regiment. It is really simple now.Just in case, I keep a packet in the battery tube when I am not using it.Easy maintenance!:twothumbs

Like everything else, we all have free will and can choose to do as we wish.:thinking:


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## cheaperrooter (Oct 7, 2013)

DON'T SAY A WORD CAPOLINI......Ok....so i AM going to buy another Fenix.....so you were RIGHT after all!!!!! I have a tk75 2900 in a shopping cart this very moment....its a GREAT deal i think. But before I checked out, I thought I would come here JUST TO MAKE sure it was all that. And now sadness. I DO NOT, REPEAT DO NOT want to spend this kind of money just to have condensation. Read every post but not seeing what the odds are this will happen. Got REALLY concerned when I read this was happening with the new 2900 version also....at first i figured it was just with the 2600 and surely, Fenix would have corrected this with the 2900. I am wrong again. So seriously, do I want to buy this thing if its fogging? What are the odds, 1 in 10 fog? 1 in 3 fog? Plus, how can it be waterproof if moisture is in this thing? If the silica can DRAW the moisture out.....then there is an opeing letting moisture in.....cant come out unless it can get in. I am all confused now. Bottom line, should I get one???


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## cheaperrooter (Oct 7, 2013)

Does the moisture affect the dang thing? Does it operate just fine with moisture there? Does it affect the beam throw and the flood??? MOSTLY WORRIED ITS NOT WATERPROOF. I mean it DOES rain....I COULD drop it in a river bed....

I don't care what anyone says (if anyone said it ) if moisture comes out....then it has to get in also....which means there is no way its waterproof!!!!


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## thedoc007 (Oct 8, 2013)

cheaperrooter said:


> Bottom line, should I get one???



Short answer, absolutely. This is one of the best lights available, period. It is a very well balanced...out-throws most lights of similar size, and spill is impressive too. You can find other lights that are better in one specific category, but the TK75 does it all fairly well. Very well balanced light.



cheaperrooter said:


> Does the moisture affect the dang thing? Does it operate just fine with moisture there? Does it affect the beam throw and the flood??? MOSTLY WORRIED ITS NOT WATERPROOF. I mean it DOES rain....I COULD drop it in a river bed....
> 
> I don't care what anyone says (if anyone said it ) if moisture comes out....then it has to get in also....which means there is no way its waterproof!!!!



There are two issues here, and you are conflating them. One issue is the interface between the head and battery tube, the other is the exterior seals. The head is not hermetically sealed, so any time you open the tube to charge your cells, you can introduce moisture into the tube. It can then work its way into the head. This is a tiny amount of moisture, though, and so far as I know, it has never caused an actual problem for anyone. It is basically a cosmetic defect, that goes away after a short period. Not anything to get worked up about, in my opinion. I don't know whether my TK75 has a condensation issue or not, but it has worked flawlessly from day 1, so frankly I don't care much either way. 

When you have your light sealed, battery tube tight, the O-rings in tail, tube, and head keep water out completely. I have read a fair bit about this light, and never has anyone had problems with water ingress when the light is sealed (to my knowledge). It is definitely water resistant, to any reasonable standard. Unlike some lights which are hit or miss, it lives up to its IPX-8 rating.

If the idea of condensation still bothers you, do what Capolini has done. Buy a few silica gel packets, and leave a fresh one in the tube. It will most likely solve the problem.

Also, be aware this issue is not just with the TK75. Other posters have found similar issues with other lights, but as I explained above, it is just a consequence of the design. Typically flashlight heads are not hermetically sealed, because they don't need to be. A small amount of moisture is no big deal. There is a moisture inside your PC, too, and it doesn't do any harm.


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## cheaperrooter (Oct 8, 2013)

By goodness. I think I am getting to close to being a flashaholic.....cause I understood EVERYTHING you said PERFECTLY. Of course, much credit goes to your style of writing thedoc007, you seem to have a PERFECT blend of techno talk and correct terminology, mixed with lay mans terms and down to earth speaking, which of course equals a VERY articulate and understandable reply. My hats off to you and I bow. Not to sound condescending, but GREAT JOB at a reply. Thank you SIR!!!


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## cheaperrooter (Oct 8, 2013)

I just ordered it, based soley on your reply. I have to say, I think I got a dang good deal, if I dont mind patting myself on the back. AMAZON, believe it or not. Here's what I got for $349.95. The NEW 2900 Tk75, an Extra battey Tube with battery magazine, 8-Fenix ARB-L2, 2-nightcore 4 bay chargers and little freebies not worth much money wise, but still, 2-123a batteries, 2 double aa batteries and 2 aaa batteries and a Red Smith & Wesson LED CaraBeamer Clip Light. Quick math by doing ebay searches, google searches and Amazon searches yielded, buying SEPERATELY mind you from all the cheapest possible sources, around $400. Couldnt compare kits as now one was offering a kit this huge, especially the extra tube which I wanted very badly. Should give me around 2 1/2 hours runtime in turbo...maybe a little more according to some posts. That is worth its weight in gold to me as you're hiking around at night as I do. My ONLY fear? It will just make my newly purchased 2-PD35's look like a candle...


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## cheaperrooter (Oct 8, 2013)

One LAST question.....the 20 min turbo downshift to high? This can be defeated by simply turning it on and off or by switching it back to turbo mode, I assume?


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## cheaperrooter (Oct 8, 2013)

Ok.....I just cancelled it. I have to be insane!!! $350 for a flashlight??? I quit this, once and for all!!!! All i could think of over and over and over is when I am camping or hiking....what am I ever gonna need this much light for? Nothing, thats what. Its just a boy toy. I got the biggest light on the block kind of thing. I need anything over my PD35 and I am in trouble. I mean I just got these 2 pd lights....and now its as if they have disappeared IN MY MIND.....cuz I have this new Tk75....so what good are my PD35's....I Know and you know and we all know I am just gonna pull out the dang TK75 everywhere I go. Taking up much needed room in my gear or backpack when I already have enough. I AM GOING INSANE!!!! I JUST DONT NEED IT.


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## blerkoid (Oct 8, 2013)

Hello,

After a few days with the silica gel in the battery tube I was able to use the light on turbo for a solid 45 minutes last night without any condensation. I will continue to use the light without any additional gel packs and post my findings.

Thanks


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## Lomandor (Oct 8, 2013)

cheaperrooter said:


> Ok.....I just cancelled it. I have to be insane!!! $350 for a flashlight??? I quit this, once and for all!!!! All i could think of over and over and over is when I am camping or hiking....what am I ever gonna need this much light for? Nothing, thats what. Its just a boy toy. I got the biggest light on the block kind of thing. I need anything over my PD35 and I am in trouble. I mean I just got these 2 pd lights....and now its as if they have disappeared IN MY MIND.....cuz I have this new Tk75....so what good are my PD35's....I Know and you know and we all know I am just gonna pull out the dang TK75 everywhere I go. Taking up much needed room in my gear or backpack when I already have enough. I AM GOING INSANE!!!! I JUST DONT NEED IT.




Waaaaaaaaaaa Wwwaaaaaaaaaaaa..... :mecry:


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## Capolini (Oct 8, 2013)

thedoc007 said:


> Short answer, absolutely. This is one of the best lights available, period. It is a very well balanced...out-throws most lights of similar size, and spill is impressive too. You can find other lights that are better in one specific category, but the TK75 does it all fairly well. Very well balanced light.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Great job of explaining the difference between waterproofing and the hermetic seal!:twothumbs

It is a great light and even with the condensation issues that I *HAD*, that *NEVER *affected the beam profile and the overall function of the light and that is with it being used on *TURBO CONSTANTLY!*


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## Capolini (Oct 8, 2013)

blerkoid said:


> Hello,
> 
> After a few days with the silica gel in the battery tube I was able to use the light on turbo for a solid 45 minutes last night without any condensation. I will continue to use the light without any additional gel packs and post my findings.
> 
> Thanks


 

Great!! Glad you got those same results that I and others have gotten!:twothumbs

I am interested in seeing what happens by not using the Silica Gel for maintenance!


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## NorthernStar (Oct 8, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Don't EXPECT Fenix to address the issue!!
> 
> I communicated with "Nicole" from main HQ when I was having condensation problems with my original TK-75. She said that this is normal!! Some bs that because of the heat generated,,blah, blah,blah! That is their way of saying, there is nothing wrong, therefore we are not going to do anything about it!
> 
> ...



This is not a good situation! Fenix must improve their QC and make a revision in their factory to fix the issue that causing condensation under the lenses.

Meanwhile i am waiting! I had in mind to give my self a TK75-L2 kit complete with 4x18650 3400mAh batteries and a charger as a christmas gift,but right now i am not feeling convinced to buy one.:thinking:


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## Capolini (Oct 8, 2013)

NorthernStar said:


> This is not a good situation! Fenix must improve their QC and make a revision in their factory to fix the issue that causing condensation under the lenses.
> 
> Meanwhile i am waiting! I had in mind to give my self a TK75-L2 kit complete with 4x18650 3400mAh batteries and a charger as a christmas gift,but right now i am not feeling convinced to buy one.:thinking:



I agree David!!!,:thumbsup:

Like this gentlemen said on another thread,,,,,,,,We are dealing with China here.

I don't want to elaborate anymore[that is a miracle!!!]


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## Capolini (Oct 8, 2013)

Guess what gentleman??? 45 minutes into turbo tonight and condensation formed again. It was the same, an oval shaped nickel size blob!!

I had not used it in 3 days. Silica gel was in the battery chamber. I let the batteries sit out as I always do and yesterday for the first time in 3 weeks we got rain. It had to be the moisture in the air getting on the batteries. there is no other explanation.

This is becoming a pain in the a..!! I guess I have to keep the batteries in a baggy with a silica packet until I am ready to use it!

There was no condensation under the lens the last 8 or 9 times that I used it.I thought I had the issue resolved!! It also did not rain and there was very little humidity during that time

The only good news as I indicated before is that this condensation has never affected the beam profile or the components of the light. However, it is VERY FRUSTRATING AND ANNOYING!


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## subwoofer (Oct 9, 2013)

Capolini said:


> The only good news as I indicated before is that this condensation has never affected the beam profile or the components of the light. However, it is VERY FRUSTRATING AND ANNOYING!



I would expect the fogging to cause extra scattering and loss of total output (like putting a frosted glass diffuser in front of the lens). What I have not been able to do is to measure any actual losses in output due to the fogging. With it being only a slight fogging I suspect it only results in a very small percentage of loss of output (maybe only 1-2%), so in reality it has little visible effect on the TK75's actual performance.

Unfortunately this may be a case of a lot of noise over a very minor 'feature' of the light and not worth getting upset over. If your car is supposed to do 150mph, but you can only get it to 147mph on a track, would you take it back to the dealer?

The reason I say this is your statement that the fogging does not appear to affect any aspect of the TK75's performance, apart from you noticing the fogging when you look at the lens itself. Is it really all that frustrating and annoying if you get 2700lm despite a little fogging inside the lens?

The TK75 is still a beast and is my go-to high output light (set on Turbo and ready and waiting ready to blast away the darkness at my command


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## dss_777 (Oct 9, 2013)

Can someone explain the physics of fogging in this case? 

I just don't understand how there can be noticeable moisture buildup on a light without introducing additional water into the head.

Is this a function of the very high heat from 2700lm output?

Is there something adding water? Maybe battery gas discharge in use? 

I just can't get my head wrapped arpound the mechanics of this issue...


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## NorthernStar (Oct 9, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Guess what gentleman??? 45 minutes into turbo tonight and condensation formed again. It was the same, an oval shaped nickel size blob!!
> 
> I had not used it in 3 days. Silica gel was in the battery chamber. I let the batteries sit out as I always do and yesterday for the first time in 3 weeks we got rain. It had to be the moisture in the air getting on the batteries. there is no other explanation.
> 
> ...



That was sad to hear,Roberto! I was hoping you had got rid of it.:sigh:



dss_777 said:


> Can someone explain the physics of fogging in this case?
> 
> I just don't understand how there can be noticeable moisture buildup on a light without introducing additional water into the head.
> 
> ...



Neither can i understand this! 

The head is sealed,so the moisture can not come from outside(if it´s not proper sealed and moisture comes in anyway somehow). However the TK75 is IPX8 rated,which means it should be completly waterproof,and that speaks against that the moisture could enter the light from outside.The first i think of is that moisture or some unknown fluid has got in to the light during the production and then got trapped there and appears when the light is run on turbo mode and high temperatures makes it visible like fog on the lens.

Like mentioned before i have never encountered this condensation under the lens issue on any flashlight i have ever own when running them at turbo(highest) mode,which makes this situation a kind of unique. I have a Fenix TK45 and it never shows any sign of condensation inside,but it never reaches so high temperatures as the TK75 does.

What i realy would like to know is if this condensation can be harmful for the electronics inside of the flashlight after long term of use? Is it water consensation,or is it some other chemical? :thinking:


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## subwoofer (Oct 10, 2013)

dss_777 said:


> Can someone explain the physics of fogging in this case?
> 
> I just don't understand how there can be noticeable moisture buildup on a light without introducing additional water into the head.
> 
> ...





NorthernStar said:


> That was sad to hear,Roberto! I was hoping you had got rid of it.:sigh:
> 
> Neither can i understand this!
> 
> ...



This fogging is a the result of a few simple conditions.

Firstly the TK75's head is not hermetically sealed, so internally moisture can diffuse from the battery tube to the air in front of the reflector.

Though the light is IPX8 rated, this refers to its seals, and seals work both ways, they keep water out, or in depending on where it is.

You, the user, are constantly breaking the seals and exchanging the batteries. This is the way moisture can get in.

So there will be some moisture inside the TK75. This is normal as most of us live in areas with a 'normal' humidity. Now we must mention relative humidity - typical household relative humidities are 30-50%, and this 'relative' aspect is due to the 'amount' of water vapour air of a particular temperature can support. Our own bodies are constantly giving off water vapour so the 'relative humidity around our own bodies is higher still. Houses are of course warmer than outside, so when you open up your TK75 indoors and expose it to the indoor relative humidity levels (which do not cause fogging at this temperature), you then seal in the air which has this relative humidity inside the TK75. Now take the TK75 outside where the temperature is lower and the 'relative' humidity goes up as colder air cannot hold as much water vapour. Make it cool enough and you will get condensation in areas where the 'relative' humidity has risen to 100%.

There is one further aspect you need to consider to explain why the fogging is in behind the lens. That of 'gradients'. There are various driving forces that create 'gradients' within the TK75, and these are the reason the water vapour makes its way into the head. Temperature gradients also set up internal relative humidity gradients which appear to push the moisture towards the coolest part of the light which is actually the glass lens. When the batteries are providing a high current, they will warm up, plus you are holding the battery tube and warming it up. The emitters also produce a lot of heat all of which goes towards vaporising any water within the TK75. The head of the light is designed to act as a heat sink and as you get towards the bezel the temperature has dropped to ambient temperature. The glass too has a large surface area and cools down very quickly once outside.

So here you have a sealed system with water vapour inside it, sources of heat, and a window at one end that gets cold (think of a single glazed window in a house in winter) so naturally the water vapour will condense on the coldest surface it finds - the back surface of the lens.

If you had a smaller lens, the glass would probably stay warmer and possibly avoid this issue, but the design incorporates a large head and therefore large lens.

Not sure if I have explained that clearly, but hopefully this makes some sense.


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## dss_777 (Oct 10, 2013)

Thanks for takiing the time to give such an excellent explanation. I find this really interesting. 

So the condensation should only occur once the light has heated the internal moisture up sufficiently and then is turned off, right?

And that's because the large surface area of the glass attracts the moisture as it is the first to cool down?

And would any condensation be expected to go away once the light has been off long enough?

Maybe the OP should only open the light to change batteries in the cold, dry outside air!

Or, just vent the light... forget the waterproofing?


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## subwoofer (Oct 10, 2013)

dss_777 said:


> So the condensation should only occur once the light has heated the internal moisture up sufficiently and then is turned off, right?



No, it is when the relative humidity at the internal surface of the lens reaches 100%, so could occur if you simply took the light outside and let it cool down.



dss_777 said:


> And that's because the large surface area of the glass attracts the moisture as it is the first to cool down?



The glass is furthest away from the sources of heat and will be the one of the first areas to cool down to ambient temperature and the 'dew point'.



dss_777 said:


> And would any condensation be expected to go away once the light has been off long enough?
> 
> Maybe the OP should only open the light to change batteries in the cold, dry outside air!
> 
> Or, just vent the light... forget the waterproofing?



Not unless the light is stored at a temperature which lowers the internal relative humidity to less than 80%.

There is something to be said for the idea of changing the batteries in a colder environment as long as it is sealed and kept sealed before bringing it into the warmer more humid indoor air. - In fact this leads me onto a potential source of the problem. If a user runs the light outdoors and the whole light gets quite cold, if they then bring it indoors, open it up to change the batteries (at which point water will be condensing inside then battery tube (exactly like taking a beer out of the fridge and seeing it 'sweat') then seal in this moisture along with a new set of batteries, and next time you use it outdoors the condensation/fogging will be worse.

I would try to maintain the waterproofing, but consider the previous comments about the temperature of the light when changing batteries.


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## Norm (Oct 13, 2013)

cheaperrooter this is not the place for a sales thread, it is also not the place for your off topic rant, let's get back to the topic at hand. - Norm


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## dss_777 (Oct 13, 2013)

I saw one of these at REI the other day. It's a beast!

Still, I wonder if there is enough water vapor in the small volume of air inside the light to produce what sounds like a fair amount of liquid water on the lens. Quite possible, I suppose, especially since the OP did say it happened last after changing the batts on a rainy day. 

But what about battery chemistry ALSO introducing something into the interior of the light during extended use? The OP's the last occurrence was after prolonged use (45minutes). Do we know what kind of batteries he is using? 

FWIW, I've had alkalines produce enough of some kind of gas in an Arc AAA keychain light to get a "pop" when I unscrew the head. What gases can typical batteries produce in use, and would it contribute to condensation under the right circumstances?


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## Capolini (Oct 13, 2013)

*"Subwoofer"* is light years ahead of me in explaining this!!

I can only tell you my personal experience with the light in laymen terms!!

The condensation dissipates "Every time" with in 5 to 15 minutes AFTER 62 minutes of continuous turbo minus a few seconds for step downs!

It is completely GONE when I get home after a 15 minute ride in my car. 

When I just take a walk nearby and turn it off near my door, I get the same results. The condensation dissipates with in 15 minutes, usually quicker.

Two things I can say with certainty! From all these trials and tribulations there is NO DOUBT the head is NOT hermetically sealed and Out of the 15 torches I have with Four[4] of them being high powered, the TK-75 is the only one with this issue!

Even though I am inconvenienced with the procedures I have to do to maintain it, It is worth it because it is a great torch.

However, with that said, I wish Fenix would address the issue and permanently resolve it by hermetically sealing the head or whatever it takes for a permanent resolution! This is NOT an isolated incident, I am not alone!

In any event,,,,*"KEEP LIGHTING UP THE DARKNESS"*


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## Norm (Oct 16, 2013)

cheaperrooter once again it has been necessary to delete another of your off topic post, please read my PM and rethink your posting style - Norm


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## NorthernStar (Oct 16, 2013)

I asked Fenix Store directly about this condensation issue on the TK75,and i received an explanation about it.It´s not exactly word for word,but i have sum the info i received here:

*The head of the TK75 lamp is not hermetically sealed from the rest of the light so when it is opened for replacing batteries air will exchange from the outside and be trapped in the light once closed.

*Because the volume of empty spacy in the light is significant the relative humidity of a users environment comes in to play. High humidity environment will produce the condensation. Now the condensation has yet to cause any failures in the the lights to date. Now to take into condensation a user who lets say is in a rainforest knows that just the location is more destructive to electronics than say a person living in a desert. The same should be applied when discussing this issue.

How to get rid of condensation it if appears:
*One shall running the light for 5 minutes(approximately) while standing on it's head and then remove the battery carrier and dropping in one of those silicone packets that absorbs moisture in the tube and leave it for a short while, then replace the battery carrier, all the while leaving the light on it's head. It takes several batter exchanges to gain the condensation back in the light,all depending on the surrounding humidity. 

So the conclusion is that the condensation does not come from the factory process-it comes from humidity in the air and it is not harmful for the light. If this is correct,then users who lives in desert like areas with low humidity should experience low or no condensation at all,while users who lives in areas with high humidity should experience more condensation on their TK75.

It would be interesting for a comparison to hear feedback from owners who lives in different areas with different humidity how much(or any) condensation they have been experienced on their TK75.


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## Capolini (Oct 16, 2013)

NorthernStar said:


> I asked Fenix Store directly about this condensation issue on the TK75,and i received an explanation about it.It´s not exactly word for word,but i have sum the info i received here:
> 
> *The head of the TK75 lamp is not hermetically sealed from the rest of the light so when it is opened for replacing batteries air will exchange from the outside and be trapped in the light once closed.
> 
> ...


 I am not spending anymore time emailing them.

This is what I would tell them!

1. When the condensation forms I am 20, 30 or 40 minutes into a walk/hike,,,,so that one method of turning the light on for 5 minutes and then putting silica gel in it is useless to me! What I continue to do[ I should not have to] is to maintain the light with silica gel in the chamber and now keeping the batteries and the carrier in a sealed tupper ware with a silica packet when the light is NOT in use.

2. *THIS IS SIMPLE!! WHY DON'T THEY HERMETICALLY SEAL THE HEAD?????????????????????????

*I have spent a lot of time and also wasted energy on this!! I have come to ACCEPT THAT NOTHING IS GOING TO CHANGE ON THE MANUFACTURERS END,,,,,,,,,,,,,,IT IS LIKE TALKING TO A BRICK WALL or 

p.s There claim that the PROBLEM does not happen in the factory is BS!!! :thinking:

*The moisture would NEVER get inside in the first place if it were built the way many other lights are who DO NOT HAVE THIS ISSUE!! Again,,that would be to build it IN THE FACTORY so that it is hermetically sealed!!

I rest my case your honor!!*


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## NorthernStar (Oct 17, 2013)

It seems like the issue of condensation is because of the head of the TK75 is not hermetically sealed from the rest of the light. Not being an engineer, but i was thinking that if they should change the design a little and start to hermetically seal the head from the rest of light on the TK75, then it would solve the issue then? :thinking:


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## subwoofer (Oct 17, 2013)

NorthernStar said:


> It seems like the issue of condensation is because of the head of the TK75 is not hermetically sealed from the rest of the light. Not being an engineer, but i was thinking that if they should change the design a little and start to hermetically seal the head from the rest of light on the TK75, then it would solve the issue then? :thinking:



Making the head hermetically sealed would definitely increase the cost of the TK75. How much more would you be prepared to pay? Remember that this issue does not seem to bother the majority of TK75 owners that much, so should everyone have to pay more to satisfy the few who are unhappy?


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## NorthernStar (Oct 17, 2013)

subwoofer said:


> Making the head hermetically sealed would definitely increase the cost of the TK75. How much more would you be prepared to pay? Remember that this issue does not seem to bother the majority of TK75 owners that much, so should everyone have to pay more to satisfy the few who are unhappy?



I don´t know how much extra each TK75 would cost if Fenix making the head hermetically sealed so it´s hard to answer how much extra one is prepared to pay. If the increase in cost would be small then it´s ok, but if the increase in cost would be significant higher then it would be better if the light remained as it is now.


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## Capolini (Oct 17, 2013)

subwoofer said:


> Making the head hermetically sealed would definitely increase the cost of the TK75. How much more would you be prepared to pay? Remember that this issue does not seem to bother the majority of TK75 owners that much, so should everyone have to pay more to satisfy the few who are unhappy?



Just curious! 

Then how do "Most" competitors manage to have high powered lights WITHOUT this problem and they are reasonably priced???:thinking:


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## subwoofer (Oct 17, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Just curious!
> 
> Then how do "Most" competitors manage to have high powered lights WITHOUT this problem and they are reasonably priced???:thinking:



Also curious...why did you choose the TK75 rather than one of the competitors?


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## dss_777 (Oct 17, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Just curious!
> 
> Then how do "Most" competitors manage to have high powered lights WITHOUT this problem and they are reasonably priced???:thinking:



Parsimony suggests this is just the result of "the law of unintended consequences". 

I think you just have the "perfect storm" of engineering decisions/realities, environmental factors, and your use patterns that create this situation. I imagine that this condensation only occurs for some people and not others because there are enough differences that the perfect storm doesn't happen. 

Think about all these factors: a large light body with lots of air-filled space, high heat output for prolonged periods, a large glass condensing surface, all in cooler conditions (night-time) in a place with higher humidity, etc.

If one or more of those factors was different enough, I bet it wouldn't show up. If this was Arizona, would it happen with this light? What if you purged the O2 from the light somehow? What if you did vent the light during use would it still happen?

You could test all those things. I would, but because I'm just curious, mostly...

Or, get a Malkoff Cool "Hound Dog" XM-L for throw, and call it good.


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## Kabible (Oct 17, 2013)

Man, just keep a silica packet from a pill bottle between the tail cap and battery cassette like I talked about in post #108 & #114! It works!!
For some folks in more humid climates, the light may simply needs a little tweak. Capolini, you live east of the Rocky mountain range where it's just plain humid and you like to run your TK75 hard. If you drive a car the way you run your TK75, it would need extra maintenance. A lot of extra maintenance. That's way race cars have pit crews standing by. Subwoofer explained the dynamics of your symptom beautifully in post #153. It all boils down to keeping the light dry inside which you're doing. Just use the pill bottle silica packet like I suggested as an extra measure. It WILL help. Read posts #108 and #114 again. 
I have some pretty expensive firearms, most of which needed some kind of adjustment, different butt pad, some trigger work, tuning of the action, upgraded parts, etc. to suit me or to operate under certain conditions. I am VERY picky!! It's no big deal. The TK75 isn't a failure. It just isn't perfect. Neither is the Hubble space telescope. Look how much it cost. Nothing is perfect except God. 
This post is in no way meant as criticism. However, aren't 6 pages on this subject enough when there is an explanation and a fix that have already been discussed?


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## leon2245 (Oct 17, 2013)

Wow, sorry to hear that condensation remains a problem for some of you. It really sounded like you guys found a way to get it under control for a while there*.*





Capolini said:


> I do not know enough about rice and these lights to have an opinion! I have no experience with that!! I will say that I have heard many, many more say it works than ones who say it doesn't!
> 
> Did you know that I am a mediator? Not on here but in real life! I have helped settle a lot of disputes by being open minded, honest, realistic, fair and with a logical and compromising personality!
> 
> ...




[ot]Just curious, but how would you describe your professional style/personal demeanor as a mediator?


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## Capolini (Oct 17, 2013)

subwoofer said:


> Also curious...why did you choose the TK75 rather than one of the competitors?






oh,,,,a question with a question?! lol! I understand!! :laughing:

Please answer my question first!!

Seriously I would really like you to answer my question. I think it is a great question and reply to your answer.

I am a nice guy!! Here is my answer!

I did NOT know of any condensation issues with the TK-75,, and it is still a great light,,,,,,,that simple! I can read minds!! The next questions I have already answered several times!

This thread has exhausted all possibilities, taken all the action, yet[ read my signature Main HQ!!] Main HQ in China can care less! So where does that leave me[us?],,,,,,,,,Accept it and move on!

*"Our serenity is directly proportional to our level of acceptance"*


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## Capolini (Oct 17, 2013)

Kabible said:


> Man, just keep a silica packet from a pill bottle between the tail cap and battery cassette like I talked about in post #108 & #114! It works!!
> For some folks in more humid climates, the light may simply needs a little tweak. Capolini, you live east of the Rocky mountain range where it's just plain humid and you like to run your TK75 hard. If you drive a car the way you run your TK75, it would need extra maintenance. A lot of extra maintenance. That's way race cars have pit crews standing by. Subwoofer explained the dynamics of your symptom beautifully in post #153. It all boils down to keeping the light dry inside which you're doing. Just use the pill bottle silica packet like I suggested as an extra measure. It WILL help. Read posts #108 and #114 again.
> I have some pretty expensive firearms, most of which needed some kind of adjustment, different butt pad, some trigger work, tuning of the action, upgraded parts, etc. to suit me or to operate under certain conditions. I am VERY picky!! It's no big deal. The TK75 isn't a failure. It just isn't perfect. Neither is the Hubble space telescope. Look how much it cost. Nothing is perfect except God.
> This post is in no way meant as criticism. However, aren't 6 pages on this subject enough when there is an explanation and a fix that have already been discussed?


 
Explain the condensation issue to a person who got the NEW VERSION and within 10 minutes of Turbo condensation appeared??? He did not run it hard? He just used it for the first time!!!

This is the last time I will say this! What is most bothersome is through the help of all of you we figured out what the problem is. The bigger problem and frustrating part is that main HQ is in *DENIAL!! *

Solution is at the bottom of post #170 that I wrote before I saw this!

I still live most of you guys,,,but love woman more!!:shakehead


Where/when did I say that the TK-75 was a failure??! :huh:

ok,, ok,, enough with the analogies!! I know that[silica gel] and I am doing that! 

To me analogies are a way people "Justify things into their way of thinking, disregarding the root and cause of the problem"! Especially when they use a multitude of them!

We have all done this!! When a persons father dies and he lived to be 98, some people[good intentions] will say, He lived a long life"! That does not make a person feel better! In a way, unintentionally, they are justifying his death!



ot here! ever read that book "When bad things happen to good people"?

Good news as I indicated in post #170,"Its all over"! 

I am leaving for Italy on Monday,,, I might be checking in on you guys:wave:


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## cheaperrooter (Oct 29, 2013)

Ummmm, turn TK on its head in the on position and let run for 5 mins??? What mode? Low, med, high, turbo? Just curious if it would overheat and burn my kitchen table if left face down on turbo mode for 5 mins...


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## NorthernStar (Oct 31, 2013)

cheaperrooter said:


> Ummmm, turn TK on its head in the on position and let run for 5 mins??? What mode? Low, med, high, turbo? Just curious if it would overheat and burn my kitchen table if left face down on turbo mode for 5 mins...



I was not told wich mode one should run it on, but i think that high is enough. If one choose to run it on turbo mode for 5 minutes, then one have to make sure that the surface is resistent to heat, for example concrete floor or something like that. Otherwise i think that there will be burnmarks on the surface.


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## den331 (Nov 25, 2013)

hello tk75 owners with fog issues does your unit still fog up on winter? with out using silica packs?


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## blah9 (Nov 25, 2013)

I meant to post earlier and say that I went camping recently, and overnight my TK75 was left in the corner of my tent. It was raining while I used it the night before, so it was wet and got pretty cold overnight (~40 degrees F or so). In the morning it was all fogged up, and turbo mode didn't work (it would immediately drop down to the next mode). Perhaps the turbo mode issue was just caused by the batteries being too cold? Either way, that was my first experience with the TK75 fogging up.

None of my other lights had the fogging problem. I had an LD01 hanging in a pouch in the tent, and my PD32UE was also fine. However, the PD32UE was on my belt holster so I don't really count that due to my body heat keeping it warmer.

I have never bothered to use the silica packs. Oh, and once I got home I checked the battery voltage for the TK75, and they were all around 4 V and turbo should have been fine. Turbo worked great at that point, so I'm assuming that the batteries were too cold to support turbo mode that morning? Maybe next time I'll just leave the light in my sleeping bag.


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## Capolini (Nov 25, 2013)

den331 said:


> hello tk75 owners with fog issues does your unit still fog up on winter? with out using silica packs?



Did you buy the light yet???



My original TK-75 fogged up year round, regardless of temperature.*At that point I was NOT using any silica packets*.

However, it NEVER caused and issue with the torch and it dissipates with in 10 minutes.

I would not worry it about it!!I started this thread and I got all the answers I needed. Everything you need to know about it has been discussed in the previous 173 posts!

If you have the torch, enjoy it!! If it ever became a serious problem, Fenix has a great warranty.Fenix outfitters gave me a FREE replacement after it was 10 months old,,,,,,no dealing with China on my part! Guess what??!! The replacement[my present torch!] also condensates when I do NOT use the Silica gel treatment!

*THIS IS WHERE ACCEPTANCE COMES IN!

*********************************************************************

*P.S. My new Olight M3X has condensation under the lens sometimes. It does NOT affect performance and dissipates with in 3 or 4 minutes after I turn it off.It is NOT hermetically sealed just like the TK-75!

It is a great torch. I could have sent it back. I would be willing to bet a replacement would do the same thing when You run it on constant "High" like me.

So, I have learned in life and on here[in regards to torches], sometimes we just need to accept things and enjoy them as is. Obviously if it became a serious issue, that is when you make sure you have a good warranty!
*


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## den331 (Nov 25, 2013)

just ordering it now i gona buy it on fenixtactical because i'm from canada . oh i notice today my jetbeam BC40 fog up the (outside lens) not in use on my back pack it was -1c outside and on my pd32UE using ncr18650a panasonic cells unprotected cannot kick in on turbo just high mode . and i warmed the cells to my hands and try it again it kicked in to turbo . winter really affects the batteries just sharing my experience LOL oh by the way now your not using silica gel how many minutes on turbo before your lens fog up and what room temperature was that?


Capolini said:


> Did you buy the light yet???, thanks for sharing your experience very helpfull
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## subwoofer (Nov 26, 2013)

Capolini said:


> *THIS IS WHERE ACCEPTANCE COMES IN!
> 
> *********************************************************************
> 
> ...



Hallelujah!! :thumbsup:

Enjoy your lights and stop worrying so much.


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## Capolini (Nov 26, 2013)

subwoofer said:


> Hallelujah!! :thumbsup:
> 
> Enjoy your lights and stop worrying so much.




Thanks Sub!!!!!!!

However, I am still worried/concerned about one thing!!!! You never answered my question in post # 165!

You answered my question with a question!! That is classified as a defense mechanism which is a "Form Of Control"!!!!

:shakehead:thinking::laughing::laughing::laughing::twothumbs

Have a nice day,,,come to America for Thanksgiving!!!


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## subwoofer (Nov 26, 2013)

Capolini said:


> Thanks Sub!!!!!!!
> 
> However, I am still worried/concerned about one thing!!!! You never answered my question in post # 165!
> 
> ...



You really should not worry about such things.

Apart from the fact I am, unfortunately, not the all-knowing-Oracle, the reason for answering a question with a question was to make *you *think about the answer yourself (think 'Olight M3X and the word 'most' in your question). I have absolutely no reason to be defensive, I'm just trying to help


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## Capolini (Dec 21, 2013)

*This is the fine gentlemen who turned me into a Flashaholic!!

He loves my TK75 the best because I can easily spot the deer once he gets their scent!!

BY THE WAY,,,,,,,,,,,,THE TK75 HAS BEEN WORKING LIKE A CHARM THE LAST FEW MONTHS! I may have to get its younger brother, the TK61[THROW MONSTER] coming out next month!
*


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## den331 (Dec 21, 2013)

Nice husky capolini. I remembred when im still in the philippines .my friend has a husky they should be always in a room that is airconditioned and cold water because philippines is a tropical country


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## Capolini (Dec 21, 2013)

den331 said:


> Nice husky capolini. I remembred when im still in the philippines .my friend has a husky they should be always in a room that is airconditioned and cold water because philippines is a tropical country



Thank You! 

Yes, they LOVE the cold and HATE the heat! Snow all melted yesterday and today:sigh: Hopefully next week we get more, otherwise Capo and I head North to Lake Placid, New York,,very cold and tons of snow!:thumbsup:


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## den331 (Dec 21, 2013)

Great. I notice husky can also adopt in hot whether if they born in a tropical country they can leave confortable around 33'c as long ther is a fan and cold water. , by the way is the tk75 is not enough? I like the looks of the tk61 it reminds me the shape of surefire guardian


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## zs&tas (Dec 22, 2013)

7 pages about condensation ? wow ! i havnt read it all but i have had issues like this before on lights. i find the best thing to do is take the light apart - only as far as is easily normal - no tools ! 
store in a heated dry cupboard, or on top of a radiator - not directly ! after an hour or too reassemble in the same conditions. should be fine now.


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## Capolini (Dec 22, 2013)

zs&tas said:


> 7 pages about condensation ? wow ! i havnt read it all but i have had issues like this before on lights. i find the best thing to do is take the light apart - only as far as is easily normal - no tools !
> store in a heated dry cupboard, or on top of a radiator - not directly ! after an hour or too reassemble in the same conditions. should be fine now.



Silica gel packets are the solution! All I have to do is put it in the battery chamber when NOT in use.


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## den331 (Jan 3, 2014)

Got my tk75 ver.2 running @30minutes turbo with a usb fan room temperature 30c no fog at all. But when i go out the house which is -25c my lens got fog up in the middle size of a quarter even when not using it . But if i go back in the house fog is gone


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## Capolini (Jan 3, 2014)

den331 said:


> Got my tk75 ver.2 running @30minutes turbo with a usb fan room temperature 30c no fog at all. But when i go out the house which is -25c my lens got fog up in the middle size of a quarter even when not using it . But if i go back in the house fog is gone


 Don't WORRY about the condensation like I did,,,,,,,it is harmless in MOST cases. I maintain mine w/ silica gel and condensation has NOT formed in over 2 months! It does not affect the function of the light and has NOT affected my beam profile whatsoever!


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## den331 (Jan 3, 2014)

yes i know. i don't really worry about the fog on my tk75 because even my Casio G shock. BC40 gets fog up also when i go out the house from 27C to -25C 
also i observed on my reflector there is a mist formed when i go inside the house again from -25C to 27C but it disappear around 10 minutes. 
hopefully the fog inside the lens won't create a fungus inside because on my DSLR camera lens i put them in a dry box to prevent any moist/fog from forming inside the lens. if fog formed inside the lens. it is prone to fungus growth. but on my tk75 case i'll just put silica gel. thank you Capolini!


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## Marksmann (Apr 6, 2014)

Read this whole thread. First post to the forums and a brand new member. My TK75 is on its way along with 4 orbtronic 3400 mah batteries and a charger. Its the 2900 lumen model. I believe.....after much research.....that any flashlight without a sealed head can get condensation. The reason this flashlight does so more often is because of its high discharge/heat factor combined with a large head. I live in Louisiana.......you can practically swim in the air year round. To my knowledge........nobody makes a sealed head flashlight that I would want to pay for. 
I do however have an idea that builds even further upon this thread.......and I bet you I will not have any trouble with my light fogging when I receive it. Im going to take a big silica gel packet and cook it for an hour. Then place my charged batteries in the flashlight. Next, Im going to take an uninflated balloon and place the silica packet inside along with the tailcap. Next.....Im going to place the balloon over the end of the flashlight.......with the tailcap completely loose and unattached.......but inside the balloon. Wait 24 hours........then screw the tailcap on through the balloon.....without removing the balloon. What do you guys think?


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## Capolini (Apr 9, 2014)

Marksmann said:


> Read this whole thread. First post to the forums and a brand new member. My TK75 is on its way along with 4 orbtronic 3400 mah batteries and a charger. Its the 2900 lumen model. I believe.....after much research.....that any flashlight without a sealed head can get condensation. The reason this flashlight does so more often is because of its high discharge/heat factor combined with a large head. I live in Louisiana.......you can practically swim in the air year round. To my knowledge........nobody makes a sealed head flashlight that I would want to pay for.
> I do however have an idea that builds even further upon this thread.......and I bet you I will not have any trouble with my light fogging when I receive it. Im going to take a big silica gel packet and cook it for an hour. Then place my charged batteries in the flashlight. Next, Im going to take an uninflated balloon and place the silica packet inside along with the tailcap. Next.....Im going to place the balloon over the end of the flashlight.......with the tailcap completely loose and unattached.......but inside the balloon. Wait 24 hours........then screw the tailcap on through the balloon.....without removing the balloon. What do you guys think?




I have 5 high powered lights that HAD condensation issues. All I do is keep a silica gel packet in the empty battery tube when I am not using it. For precaution I also have the charged batteries w/ carrier in a container with silica gel while it is idle. This method has not failed me yet.

It can also get very humid in the summer time in SE PA. Have not heard of your method!! 


Whatever works!!


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## thedoc007 (Apr 9, 2014)

Marksmann said:


> I do however have an idea that builds even further upon this thread.......and I bet you I will not have any trouble with my light fogging when I receive it. Im going to take a big silica gel packet and cook it for an hour. Then place my charged batteries in the flashlight. Next, Im going to take an uninflated balloon and place the silica packet inside along with the tailcap. Next.....Im going to place the balloon over the end of the flashlight.......with the tailcap completely loose and unattached.......but inside the balloon. Wait 24 hours........then screw the tailcap on through the balloon.....without removing the balloon. What do you guys think?



I think that sounds like a huge hassle, for no appreciable gain. If you want to do it as an experiment, by all means, go ahead. But frankly, it just isn't necessary. My TK75 does sometimes have condensation, and I have done exactly nothing about it. It continues to work fine, and to this point no one has ever demonstrated that it makes any difference at all to the performance of the light. 

If it had on-board charging, it might be worth doing that once, just to say you cured the problem. But every time you charge the cells, you are going to reintroduce moisture back into the light. So unless you are committed to doing that procedure every single time, why bother? To me that would just take away from enjoying the light. 

A simpler idea would be to not check the lens for condensation unless you notice it dimming or artifacts in the beam. If you don't notice anything, assume there is no condensation, and you are set. An awesome light, no problems, and less effort. Seems like a winning solution...but that's just me.


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## RemcoM (Apr 10, 2014)

Can moist air not come inside the flashlight itself?

Even not when i left it in a moist barn outside for 1 year, with 98 percent moist air?

Does that not affect the led itself, and the brightness?

Remco


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## dss_777 (Apr 10, 2014)

I still wonder if the solution is to vent the light, near the head if possible. Drill a small hole, allow pressure equalization when the light heats up, and presumably expel some of the moisture to the outside. Why wouldn't that work?

Or, stop obsessing about it, as thedoc007 has suggested.


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## ven (Apr 10, 2014)

RemcoM said:


> Can moist air not come inside the flashlight itself?
> 
> Even not when i left it in a moist barn outside for 1 year, with 98 percent moist air?
> 
> ...



Out of interest RemcoM ,how does your rc40 perform regarding any/if condensation.This has a large head..........have you tested it in cold temperatures,been on high/turbo for long periods......

No trick question,just wondering if the rc40 may have similar issue as tk75


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## Capolini (Apr 10, 2014)

dss_777 said:


> I still wonder if the solution is to vent the light, near the head if possible. Drill a small hole, allow pressure equalization when the light heats up, and presumably expel some of the moisture to the outside. Why wouldn't that work?
> 
> Or, stop obsessing about it, as thedoc007 has suggested.



Your last sentence is the answer!!![Stop obsessing about it!]

My simple method works. Do you have to do it? That is up to you.Is it absolutely necessary? I would say no, unless it causes problems.Mine did it for 8 months before I resolved it!!

All the answers are on this thread it does not need to be  anymore!!! lol!lol!


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## thedoc007 (Apr 10, 2014)

RemcoM said:


> Can moist air not come inside the flashlight itself?
> 
> Even not when i left it in a moist barn outside for 1 year, with 98 percent moist air?
> 
> Does that not affect the led itself, and the brightness?



I suppose if you gave it enough time, the seals would eventually fail...if you lubricate them properly before storage, though, it'll be a LONG time before you have any issues. The entire light, from head to tailcap, is sealed against water/moisture IF it is fully assembled and tightened. The issue arises when you break the seal (unscrew the talicap) to charge the cells. At that point, you allow moisture into the battery tube, and it can work its way into the head. The head is sealed from the outside, but not hermetically sealed at the connection point with the battery tube, since that doesn't influence the water-resistance of the light.

LEDs are actually inherently quite resistant to water...the dome over the LED keeps water away from the critical components. Even without the dome, though, the LED can still run underwater. (I remember seeing that done as an experiment, you can do a search if you are skeptical.) And we are talking about a very small amount of moisture, and the condensation actually moves what moisture there is away from the LEDs, to the glass window. It has no noticeable effect on performance whatsoever, and as far as I know no one has ever had an LED fail due to the condensation issue.

Again, the summary is simple. If you are OCD and can't stand the condensation, throw in a silica packet. Otherwise, for the rest of us, just enjoy your light! There is no real problem, nor is the issue unique to the TK75.


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## Capolini (Apr 10, 2014)

*Quote from: thedoc007*

Again, the summary is simple. If you are OCD and can't stand the condensation, throw in a silica packet. Otherwise, for the rest of us, just enjoy your light! There is no real problem, nor is the issue unique to the TK75. 

**********************************************************************************

Sometimes it is a good idea to use silica gel and you do not have to have OCD to make that decision!!!

When I got my TK61vn, within 10 minutes it started to show condensation under the lens. I am use to this, no big deal. My TN32, K40vn, TK75, ect. has done the same.


I continued to run the TK61 throughout my walk like I did w/ the others. The last 15 minutes or so the beam profile was noticeably distorted and actually prevented about 20% of the light from coming out,there was a shadow.

No big deal, I do my simple silica gel treatment which takes very little time and there has not been any condensation since.Was it going to eventually alter the flashlights ability to function? Probably not, but I don't know. All I know is a simple step removed it and it now has 100% of the possible reflected light coming out the lens!


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## Marksmann (Apr 13, 2014)

Well........Ive had my light now for almost a week. I never did the silica gel packet and my light has not fogged once. Quite frankly........Im just not worried about it anymore. Me and Amy, my 2 yr old blue healer, love the light. We go out for night walks and she chases rabbits......actually catches a few as well. For just walking around the low 25 lumens lights the ground in front of you well. The medium 450 lumens is enough to spotlight any living creature out to 100 yards.......especially if your looking for eyeshine. 95% of the time I stay in medium because its enough. The high setting is retarded for just walking around and overkill........but great for identification at longer ranges. Turbo is ballistic. The 3400 mah orbtronics are giving me good battery life. Who in their right mind walks around with this thing on turbo 100% of the time? All its going to do is kill your night vision. Again.......holding the light up next to my ear.....but far enough forward to be in front of my eyes yields any living creatures eyeshine well beyond 100 yards on medium. High and turbo are spotlight settings. Dont get me wrong.....I use high and Turbo....for identification at long range. But how far can you really see a deer etc in great detail with your naked eye? Sure......I can light up a deer at 300 yards.......but I would need binoculars to really see him good. Anyways.........I freaking love the light.......alot. No regrets at all. LOVE IT.


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## Capolini (Apr 13, 2014)

Marksmann said:


> Well........Ive had my light now for almost a week. I never did the silica gel packet and my light has not fogged once. Quite frankly........Im just not worried about it anymore. Me and Amy, my 2 yr old blue healer, love the light. We go out for night walks and she chases rabbits......actually catches a few as well. For just walking around the low 25 lumens lights the ground in front of you well. The medium 450 lumens is enough to spotlight any living creature out to 100 yards.......especially if your looking for eyeshine. 95% of the time I stay in medium because its enough. The high setting is retarded for just walking around and overkill........but great for identification at longer ranges. Turbo is ballistic. The 3400 mah orbtronics are giving me good battery life. Who in their right mind walks around with this thing on turbo 100% of the time? All its going to do is kill your night vision. Again.......holding the light up next to my ear.....but far enough forward to be in front of my eyes yields any living creatures eyeshine well beyond 100 yards on medium. High and turbo are spotlight settings. Dont get me wrong.....I use high and Turbo....for identification at long range. But how far can you really see a deer etc in great detail with your naked eye? Sure......I can light up a deer at 300 yards.......but I would need binoculars to really see him good. Anyways.........I freaking love the light.......alot. No regrets at all. LOVE IT.


 Where you live has something to do w/ condensation issues. Where do you live?

Not all the lights have that issue. This thread is mainly for those who do.

If you think the stock TK75 is bright/powerful,,,,,,,,,,try a modded TK75vn or the TK61vn that has 600Kcd+!! It will throw 2.5 Times further than the TK75. 1755m to 690m!


This light and others[especially modded ones] are used on max most of the time for S&R.:twothumbs

Good luck with your torch,the stock TK75 is still a well balanced torch in regards to Throw and flood combo.


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## Marksmann (Apr 13, 2014)

I live in Haughton Louisiana. I keep my house really cool/air conditioner has been running alot possibly lowering the humidity inside my house. I opened and closed the light in my house. I ran turbo for about ten minutes on 7 deer. Was about 60 degrees outside at 02:00. No fogging at that time. I really have no interest in modding the light as Im sure it would yield higher amp draws from my batteries and possibly shorter runtimes. With an extension the higher amp draw would be a non issue tho......as well as runtime. I do however like the form factor of it being short.


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## shapez (Mar 13, 2019)

I have this issue with a one week old Acebeam X70 light and I don't really know what to do with it. Any suggestions ?


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Mar 14, 2019)

shapez said:


> I have this issue with a one week old Acebeam X70 light and I don't really know what to do with it. Any suggestions ?



I've had that happen with some of my lights, early in the winter season. After a month or so, I guess it dries out enough that the condensation stops.

Give it a month or so, and see if it goes away by itself. I imagine the factory that produces the light is in a much more humid environment than winter here.


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