# Nitecore TM16 (4xXM-L2, 4x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS and more!



## selfbuilt (Aug 29, 2015)

The TM16 is a latest member of the "Tiny Monster" series from Nitecore – although this one seems to be moving away from the "Tiny" monicker.  It is a high-output light with a large head, featuring 4xXM-L2, and runs on 4x18650 only. 

Let's see how it compares to other recent lights in this class that I've reviewed recently.

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:*
Note: as usual, this is just what the manufacturer provides. Scroll down to see my actual testing results.


LED: 4x CREE XM-L2 (U2)
Battery: 4 x 18650 batteries (Batteries NOT included)
Output mode/Runtime: Turbo: 4000 lumens (45 minutes), High: 1780 lumens (2 hours, 30 minutes), Mid: 680 lumens (6 hours), Low: 280 lumens (16 hours, 30 minutes), Ultra low: 5 lumens (520 hours)
Specifications determined using 2600mAH 18650 battery
Max Beam Distance: 700 meters
Peak Beam Intensity: 122,500cd
Advanced Temperature Regulation (ATR) technology
Dual-switch user interface ensures one-handed easy operation
Features 5 brightness levels and 3 special modes
Integrated power indicator light displays remaining battery power
Power indicator's secondary function displays battery voltage
Constructed from aerograde aluminum alloy
Sturdy HA III military grade hard-anodized
Waterproof in accordance with IPX-8 (two meters submersible)
Impact resistant to 1.5 meters
Tail stand capability
Dimensions: Length: 7.17", Bezel Diameter: 3.5", Body: 2.09"
Weight: 17.85 oz (506g)
MSRP: ~$200










Packaging is the standard cardboard box with built-in packaging foam from Nitecore. Inside you will find the light, extra o-ring, simple wrist lanyard (with threading wire), and manual. Note that there is no holster.













From left to right: Keeppower protected 18650 3100mAh; Nitecore TM16, TM15, TM06; Fenix TK75, Eagletac MX25L4.

All dimensions are directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Nitecore TM16:* Weight: 508.4g (697g with 4x18650). Length 181mm, Width (bezel): 88.9mm
*Nitecore TM06*: Weight: 276.4g (464g with 4x18650), Length 123.9mm, Width (bezel): 50.0mm 
*Nitecore TM11*: Weight: 342.6g (531g with 4x18650), Length 135.3mm, Width (bezel): 59.5mm 
*Nitecore TM15:* Weight: 450.6g (639g with 4x18650). Length 158mm, Width (bezel): 59.5mm

*Acebeam K60*: Weight: 593.2g, Length: 207mm, Width (bezel): 88.0mm
*AceBeam K40M*: Weight: 498.4g, Length: 188mm, Width (bezel): 76.2mm
*Eagletac MX25L3C 3x18650*: Weight: 345.9g, 352.0g with kit tailcap (485-491g with 4x18650), Length: 141.9mm, 143.6mm with kit tailcap, Width (bezel): 61.9mm
*Eagletac MX25L4 Turbo (SST-90)*: Weight: 741.0g (926g with 4x18650), Length: 203mm, Width (bezel): 92.7mm
*Fenix TK75*: Weight: 516.0g (700g with 4x18650), Length: 184mm, Width (bezel): 87.5mm
*Lumintop SD75*: Weight: 825.3g, Length: 247mm, Width (bezel): 88.4mm
*Thrunite TN35 (MT-G2)*: Weight: 571.4g (723g with 3x18650), Length: 201mm, Width (bezel): 78.9mm

Definitely a departure for the TM-series. Think of the TM16 as a very big brother to the TM06. 


















This is a much larger light than any of the earlier Tiny Monster series, due to the greatly enlarged head. The physical interface has also changed, eschewing the two-stage "camera-button" style light on the earlier TM11/TM15, in favor of a two-button option as seen on the EA41, for example. Overall feature set and functionality remains similar across the TM-series, however.

As with other TM-series lights, there are cylindrical ridges along the body to help with grip – and extra heat-sinking fins on the head of the TM16. There is no knurling per se, except on the tailcap (but is fairly mild here), but overall grip is good. Light can roll, but cut-outs in the head help limit this.

Anodizing is matte finish (flat black). Body labels are fairly extensive, but not as bad as some of the earlier models. Labels remain very legible and clear.

The TM16 uses two rubberized square buttons, located one above the other, as on the EA41. The lower button is the power button, and the upper is the mode changing button (see my User Interface section for more info). Button feel is fairly "grippy", and they are slightly raised. Like the EA41, there a single blue LED located underneath the switch area. This is used to signal the state of the light (i.e., battery status, standby). Scroll down for an explanation of the interface. 

Battery handle more like the multi-cell EA-series design than the earlier TM-series, with the batteries arrange in series, not parallel. The TM16 uses a similar tailcap design to the multi-cell EA-series lights. Screw threads are square-cut and anodized, but it doesn't really matter, because the connection is carried by the contacts in the tailcap and not the body. You would need to loosen the tailcap more than half-way off to break this contact and lock out the light.

The light can tailstand. There are cut-outs on the base to allow you thread a wrist-lanyard through. There is also a tripod screw mounting area on the base (which seems like a bit of an odd location for one).


















The TM16 uses 4xXM-L2, each at the base of a fairly deep smooth reflector well within the larger reflector. As with most lights of this type, there is a lot of overlap between the wells. This should translate into good throw for the size and output, but with overlapping spillbeam artifacts. Scroll down for beamshots.

*User Interface*

The user interface is similar to the earlier TM-series lights, but adapted to the two separate switches (i.e. multi-cell EA-series lights).

Activation is controlled by the lower power switch – press and release (i.e., click) to turn the light on at the previously memorized constant output level. Click the power switch again to turn off.

While on, click the upper mode switch repeatedly to cycle between the five main output levels in the following repeating sequence: Lower > Lo > Med > Hi > Turbo, in a repeating loop. The light has mode memory, and will return to the last level used when turned back on from off. 

For the special modes (i.e., blinking modes), these are normally accessed from On. With the light on, press and hold the mode switch for more than 1 sec. The light will enter into Strobe. To advance to Location (aka beacon mode), press and hold the mode switch again. To advance to SOS, press and hold the mode switch again. A click of the mode switch exits back to constant output modes. Note that there is no memory for the blinking modes.

There are a couple of shortcuts from Off available. Press and hold the power switch from Off for more than 1 sec to activate in Lower. Press and hold the mode switch from Off for more than 1 sec for Turbo. Cycle through modes or turn off as before. You can also jump directly to strobe from Off by a double-click of the mode switch.

The light will read-out the voltage of the cells when you first connect the tailcap, by a series of blue flashes under the switch cover. The first set of flashes is number of volts (i.e., 2, 3, or 4), followed by a pause, and then 1/10ths of a volt (1 to 9). 

You can also check the relative battery capacity by a single click of the Mode switch when off. The light flash up to three times, with 3 flashes means there is >50% battery life remaining, 2 flashes indicate <50%, and 1 flash means the batteries are almost dead. Odd that Nitecore included both methods, but there you are.

To activate the "special" standby feature, press and hold the power switch when turning Off the light. The faint blue locator LED will flash every ~3 secs in this standby mode. This standby flash is disabled by default when you just click Off.

To lockout the light, you need to start with the light On. Press and hold both buttons for more than 1 sec to electronically lock-out the light. The main beam will flash once to confirm the lockout. The same sequence (from Off) is required to unlock the light.

*Video*: 

For more information on the light, please see my brief overview here:



As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video. 

*Strobe*

There is no sign of PWM on any level – the light is current-controlled. :thumbsup:






Strobe is a fast tactical 19 Hz strobe.

*Standby Drain*

A standby current drain is inevitable on the TM16, due to the electronic switches in the head. Unfortunately, I'm not able to easily measure it, as the batteries are arranged in series (i.e., I would have to connect everything under tension, without the tailcap in place, to get a reading). It is usually reasonable on Nitecore lights, but their lights often drain cells in months (not years).

Note that you cannot easily break this current by unscrewing the tailcap - it needs to be unscrewed at least half-way to reliably block the current. As with many other models in this class, it is the tension on the springs that maintains the connection (i.e., it has nothing to do with the anodized threads).

The TM16 does include an electronic lock-out mode. I don't know how much this lowers the standby current, but it may. I recommend you make use of it. 

*Beamshots:*

And now, what you have all been waiting for.  All lights are on their respective 18650 battery sources, about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). 












































































The TM16 is an excellent thrower for the multi-emitter class. It's a bit hard to see above, but the four overlapping beam wells do produce significant artifacts in the periphery of the spillbeam. You can see this a bit better here:






For outdoor shots, these are done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground). Note there are a lot of bugs out at this time of year, so expect to see some flight trails. 

Sorry about any tint effects – I accidentally left the camera on Automatic color balance for these shots. Please see my review catalog at flashlightreviews.ca for the AceBeam K40M, Eagletac ZP10L9, and Lumintop SD75 reviews.




























Scroll down for direct beam measurements.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).






The TM16 is the highest output TM-series light yet, exceeding most other 4xXM-L2 lights or MT-G2 lights (although the higher-power Eagletac ZP10L9 is still a champ here). Throw is very good for this style of light.






Stated output specs seem reasonable, based on my testing.

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*

I currently do all my runtime testing on Panasonic NCR18650A (3100mAh) based protected ICR cells. 










Max output is definitely higher on the TM16 than the earlier TM-series lights – although overall efficiency seems pretty much identical to the recent TM06 at the lower levels, as you would expect.

*Potential Issues*

Due to the electronic switches in the head, the light has a stand-by current when batteries are installed. I have not measured it in this case, but on most Nitecore lights it tends to be in a range that will drain fully-charged batteries over a course of months. 

You can physically lock out the light, but this requires un-screwing the tailcap more than half-way off. I recommend you use the electronic lock-out in regular use, to prevent accidental activations. 

Due to the large overlapping reflector wells, there are significant spillbeam artifacts on the periphery of the beam.

The light is larger than the earlier Tiny Monsters, and doesn't come with a holster.

Tripod mount is a nice touch, but seems unusually placed on the tail.

*Preliminary Observations*

This latest member of the popular "Tiny Monster" series from Nitecore is definitely more on the Monster side of the equation.  Historically, this series has featured compact high-output lights, around the size of a soup can or pop can. This is the first edition that has grafted on a large head for maximum throw. oo:

The physical interface has been updated (although not its functionality). Instead of the common two-stage button on the earlier TM-series lights, you now get two distinct buttons (as on the multi-cell EA-series lights). Otherwise, the actual feature set is not that different. Personally, I prefer the dual button arrangement here, as it doesn't rely on you getting the pressure settings just right.

Overall output/runtime efficiency remains very good as before - consistent with a good current-controlled circuit.  Basically, this is the TM06 with a large head grafted onto it. This allows for an increased max output level (likely due to the extra heatsinking the large head provides).

But what is really distinctive is the beam pattern – you get a lot of throw on the TM16. Due to the overlapping reflector wells, you also get significant beam artifacts in the periphery. Beam pattern is consistent with other high-output, multi-emitter throwers in this class and size.

It's a small matter, but I do wish Nitecore had provided some sort of holster for the light. Given the dimensions, this can be a tricky thing to carry (i.e., just like the Fenix TK75).

The TM16 is a solid offering in the high-output, multi-emitter, "throwy" class of lights. You get a very good range of features and controls. I can certainly see this model doing well for the multi-emitter class, although I'm personally becoming more interested in the new high-output emitters (e.g. Cree XHP70-based lights). But the TM16 is an interesting choice when compared to the earlier TM-series lights.

----

TM16 provided by Nitecore for review.


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## BrightLignt (Aug 29, 2015)

Thanks for the great reviews as always. I wish you would have included the K60 in the pics and graphs as I think these two are direct competitors. I've been debating between buying the two. They are similarly priced, similarly sized, and have similar advertised output. This light is slightly smaller than the K60, but K60 has superior output.

Also, it's worth noting that it uses a plastic reflector.


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## akhyar (Aug 29, 2015)

Excellent review as always. Thanks


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## ven (Aug 29, 2015)

Great review ,thank you selfbuilt, i too prefer the xhp70 with a cleaner beam . I chose the k60vn over the tm16 for that reason and have no regrets. Its appears from your tests the k60 and x60 5x xml2 perform pretty much the same other than better run times/heat sinking from the x60 due to mass.

The tm16 is certainly a fine looking light(well i like the head anyway,the body reminds me of the ea8!). 

+1 for some comparison k60 shots if possible..

Cheers ven


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## daicatudius (Aug 29, 2015)

Nice review as always!



ven said:


> +1 for some comparison k60 shots if possible..
> 
> Cheers ven



I think he is already posted the comparision pictures in the Acebeam K60 review  http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...HP70-4x18650)-Review-RUNTIMES-BEAMSHOTS-VIDEO


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## selfbuilt (Aug 29, 2015)

BrightLignt said:


> Thanks for the great reviews as always. I wish you would have included the K60 in the pics and graphs as I think these two are direct competitors.





ven said:


> +1 for some comparison k60 shots if possible..


Sure, easy enough to do for the beams. Just added to the review the white wall shots and the outdoor comparisons with the K60. 

A little more work to add in the K60 to the runtimes (i.e., have to regenerate everything). So here's a copy of those runtimes from the K60, to help you compare:












> Also, it's worth noting that it uses a plastic reflector.


Interesting, I hadn't heard that. It is certainly shiny.


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## ven (Aug 29, 2015)

Cheers guys :thumbsup:, forgot about the other review


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## JoeSW (Aug 30, 2015)

Great review as always. I know you always use protected 18650A batteries. I was wondering if you have tried to measure the lumen output with IMR batteries? Thanks!


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## cagenuts (Aug 30, 2015)

selfbuilt said:


> The TM16 is a latest member of the "Tiny Monster" series from Nitecore.
> 
> *Acebeam Reported Specifications:*
> Note: as usual, this is just what the manufacturer provides. Scroll down to see my actual testing results.


Small _edit_​ required.


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## Swede74 (Aug 30, 2015)

Thank you for the review. One thing I don't like is exposed threads, so a rubber plug for the tripod mount would have been a nice touch. On the other hand, I don't think pocket lint will be a big issue for anyone using this light.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 30, 2015)

JoeSW said:


> Great review as always. I know you always use protected 18650A batteries. I was wondering if you have tried to measure the lumen output with IMR batteries? Thanks!


I wouldn't really expect any significant difference in output. You have to driven really hard to see a benefit to IMR cells. Even on Turbo here, it would probably just mean a slightly altered runtime curve of the first part - nothing you could dectect by eye.



cagenuts said:


> Small _edit_​ required.


Thanks, fixed.


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## 100eyes (Aug 30, 2015)

You mentioned ways to carry the light - I found bottle holders or SLR lens holders can work pretty well, something like the Maxpedition 10x4 bottle holder or one of it's cheap clones.


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## akhyar (Aug 30, 2015)

At MSRP of $199, a holster would be nice as their direct competitors like TK75 and K60 come with a shoulder strap or a holster.
Nevertheless, a generic flashlight holster that is compatible with TM16 can be had for $15-16 from hkequipment @ eBay.


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## 100eyes (Aug 30, 2015)

The TK75 doesn't come with a holster. It comes with a shoulder strap.


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## akhyar (Aug 31, 2015)

My mistake. At least it's better than just a simple lanyard


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## markr6 (Aug 31, 2015)

I was looking forward to this review. Thanks!

I've been patiently waiting for my TM16vn after sending it back to vinh, who recently swapped the LEDS for 2x4000K and 2x5000K flavors. It was nice, but a little too warm/yellowish. This time it will have all 4x5000K. It will be in my mailbox in a few hours 

The no holster thing was strange. I bought a camera lens bag for $4 which is fine for me; I just wanted something to keep it from getting banged up in a bag. I would never carry this thing on a belt!


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Aug 31, 2015)

I think if they smoothed out the mode spacing, especially on the lower levels, it would be nicer. Or scrap the 5 lumen mode, and make it around 30-50 lumens for the lowest.


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## markr6 (Aug 31, 2015)

WalkIntoTheLight said:


> I think if they smoothed out the mode spacing, especially on the lower levels, it would be nicer. Or scrap the 5 lumen mode, and make it around 30-50 lumens for the lowest.



I don't bother much with the modes really. Max most of the time, but has instant access to the last mode used, low and max. So of those 3 I'm completely set. I could certainly skip one of the middle modes though.


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## 100eyes (Aug 31, 2015)

WalkIntoTheLight said:


> I think if they smoothed out the mode spacing, especially on the lower levels, it would be nicer. Or scrap the 5 lumen mode, and make it around 30-50 lumens for the lowest.



After some use I can confirm the moonlight mode on the TM16 is not very useful.

BTW, did anyone ever figure out why the TM16 takes so long to turn its LEDs off? 1 of the 4 LEDs in mine takes noticeably longer than others, but they all basically dim out instead of just turning off.

Here's a gif of the LEDs turning off:


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## markr6 (Sep 1, 2015)

100eyes said:


> After some use I can confirm the moonlight mode on the TM16 is not very useful.
> 
> BTW, did anyone ever figure out why the TM16 takes so long to turn its LEDs off? 1 of the 4 LEDs in mine takes noticeably longer than others, but they all basically dim out instead of just turning off.
> 
> Here's a gif of the LEDs turning off:



That's odd. All 4 of my LEDs dim equally and fairly quickly, but I do notice the delay. I would say about 1 second after turning off.

I do like the moonlight mode, but on a light of this size I probably won't use it often.


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## Timothybil (Sep 1, 2015)

100eyes said:


> BTW, did anyone ever figure out why the TM16 takes so long to turn its LEDs off? 1 of the 4 LEDs in mine takes noticeably longer than others, but they all basically dim out instead of just turning off.


Don't forget - the visible light we see is actually being produced by phosphors being stimulated by the actual LED emitter. I would guess that, due to variances in the phosphor makeup, some of the phosphors are slower in giving up all their energy than others after being hit for a while with 1,000 lumens. I have noticed the same phenomenon on my TM16. It is obvious the LED is off, but there is a dimming glow for about a short second.


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## Timothybil (Sep 1, 2015)

Selfbuilt, in your testing did you happen to measure the current draw on Turbo? Some have raised the question of ICR 18650 cells ability to keep up when the light is in Turbo mode.

As always, thanks for your efforts on our behalf. I don't know what we would do without you and our other review gurus to give us the straight story.


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## 100eyes (Sep 1, 2015)

Timothybil said:


> Don't forget - the visible light we see is actually being produced by phosphors being stimulated by the actual LED emitter. I would guess that, due to variances in the phosphor makeup, some of the phosphors are slower in giving up all their energy than others after being hit for a while with 1,000 lumens. I have noticed the same phenomenon on my TM16. It is obvious the LED is off, but there is a dimming glow for about a short second.



That was recorded turning off from moonlight mode. I also just received the TK75 2015 since I wanted to compare it against the TM16; all LEDs turn off instantly in all modes.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 1, 2015)

Timothybil said:


> Selfbuilt, in your testing did you happen to measure the current draw on Turbo? Some have raised the question of ICR 18650 cells ability to keep up when the light is in Turbo mode.


No, as that is not so easy to do - the cell setup is not simple, and a regular DMM and leads will not give you an accurate current reading (even if you wired it all up). I know from experience that output is generally affected by the resistance of the DMM and/or leads, rendering the results invalid.

Just going from the runtimes, it seems like ICR cells should be alright.


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## Octavian (Sep 2, 2015)

JoeSW said:


> .........................measure the lumen output with IMR batteries? .....


I don't know if is a reliable source, but seems that output is a little different depending of the batteries type 
http://m4dm4x.com/2015/07/18/review-nitecore-tm16-part-2/


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## selfbuilt (Sep 2, 2015)

Octavian said:


> I don't know if is a reliable source, but seems that output is a little different depending of the batteries type


I can give it a try to see, but it will likely be a few days before I can get around to testing it.


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## JoeSW (Sep 7, 2015)

I did a quick test with my TM16 at about 2.5m from a white wall at Turbo. I compared the Olight 18650 3400mAh and Acebeam ARC18650H-250A using LG 18650HE2 20A 2500mAh cells.

Battery | Incident | Reflected
Olight | 13000lux | 3300 cd/m^2 (lux)
Acebeam | 14000lux | 3600 cd/m^2 (lux)

Measurements were taken with a Sekonic L-758C light meter. The TM16 was positioned on a tripod.
The TM16 voltmeter showed 4.1V for both sets of batteries after testing. I'll see if I have time to repeat the test with both sets of batteries freshly charged. I did not bother to cool down the light and I tested the Olight before the Acebeam batteries.

The results show a clear increase in light output for the Acebeam IMRs compared to the protected Olight cells.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 11, 2015)

Yes, I have just done an output test on Acebeam 2500mAh IMR cells (20A rated), and get a ~6% increase in ANSI FL-1 max output, over NCR18650A 3100mAh ICR. So, that would be ~3750 estimated lumens.

I will do runtimes when I get a chance, and update this review in a couple of weeks (currently away). :wave:


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## billcushman (Sep 11, 2015)

I have used several different types of batteries in my TM16. With Olight 3400 mAh batteries it put out 125000 candela (measured at 5 meters). With genuine Efest 2500 mAh 35A IMR button top (purple) batteries its output was 135000 candela. With EagleTac 3400 batteries it did not work because the button top did not project enough above the body (these were a couple of years old, current production may be different). I was lucky to get a TM16 with output greater than specs. My EC4 is just slightly below specs on output. My Olight SR52, SR90, and two S30Rs all exceed specs by a significant margin. In his excellent review, Selfbuilt found his TM16 was just a little lower than specs in Candelas. The M4D MAX TM16 review at BudgetLightForums found similar results from IMR batteries. The Efest IMR batteries are not protected and must be charged properly and cannot be discharged too low or they will be damaged.

I have some Samsung 25R 20A INR button top batteries ordered that may be here tomorrow. I expect these will perform the same at the Efest 35A IMRs.


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## Timothybil (Sep 12, 2015)

I am a little upset at the apparent lack of regulation on Turbo mode. The curve actually looks like a direct drive curve. It looks like after a time I can actually get more light from High than Turbo as the cells run down. Other Nitecore lights easily make 1k lumens with regulation, so why not use it in this one? Any of our driver gurus have an idea?


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## billcushman (Sep 13, 2015)

I just received some Samsung 25R Button Top Batteries (Blue INR) to compare output with the Efest 35A Button Top Batteries ( Purple IMR) that were recently purchased for use in my Nitecore TM16. Beam intensity output measured 137000 Candelas with the 25Rs compared to 135000 Candelas with the Efest 35As. However this was not due to a difference in the batteries. I recently bought a Thrunite MCC-4 charger. Previously I had charged the batteries in a Nitecore D4. Batteries came off the chargers at different voltages. The D4 charged the batteries to 4.18 volts and the MCC-4 charged the batteries to 4.24 volts. The voltages were carefully measured to five digits on a Fluke 289 high accuracy DVM after allowing them to rest for one hour. I repeated the beam intensity measurement with the Efest batteries charged on the MCC-4 and also obtained 137000 candelas (same as the 25As). The difference was due to the higher voltage, not a difference in the batteries. The button top on both batteries looked exactly the same. The 25R weighed 44.47 grams and the Efest weighed 45.10 grams. I only weighed one sample of each battery.


Battery cycle life decreases rapidly when charged to voltages higher than 4.2 volts, so I will normally use the D4, but will use the MCC-4 for fast charging to above 4 volts and switch to the D4 for finishing the charge when time is a concern. The D4 only charges at .375A with 4 batteries, whereas the MCC-4 charges 4 batteries at 1A. 


It is normally hard to find the Samsung 25R in the button top configuration (required for the TM16) but IMRbatteries.com in Houston TX has an incredible selection of lithium-ion cells. Their prices were excellent and delivery was very fast. They even included a nice four battery plastic case with the 25A button tops.


All beam intensity measurements were made with a Extech EA33 in the Candela mode (it allows you to input distance and automatically computes the output in Candelas) at a distance of 5 meters. I have previously compared the EA33 to my Spectroradiometer ($$$$$ and slow) and it agrees closely.


Both the Efest 35A Purple Button Top and the Samsung 25R button top give about 8% increased output in the Nitecore TM16 when compared to Olight 3400 batteries. Care must be taken to not over discharge the unprotected cells and they must be charged in a quality charger. I hope this long post will be helpful to everyone who owns or is considering a Nitecore TM16. It is a great light.


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## akhyar (Sep 13, 2015)

Thanks for sharing your experienced on the output from different batteries.
I have Keeppower IMR3200mAh in the post that I'm planning to use with the TM16 as right now it is being fed with protected NCR18650B. Will see if the increase in output is noticeable to my naked eye. Just kidding!
I do agree that it is more difficult to find stock button-top IMR batteries, unless we go the rewrappers route souch as those for KP, Efest, etc.


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## WarRaven (Sep 13, 2015)

Good info guys.
Interesting to see even OEM lights can benefit from better then average high drain cells.


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## davpet (Sep 22, 2015)

Timothybil said:


> I am a little upset at the apparent lack of regulation on Turbo mode. The curve actually looks like a direct drive curve. It looks like after a time I can actually get more light from High than Turbo as the cells run down. Other Nitecore lights easily make 1k lumens with regulation, so why not use it in this one? Any of our driver gurus have an idea?



On Nitecore's website it says that the TM16 has advanced temperature regulation technology, which dynamically adjusts output according to body temperature. But in that case the output would stop decreasing after a while. I agree with you, the output curve looks bad. On the positive side, if I see it correctly on the picture, turbo and high intersect at around 90 minutes, so you have over 2000 lumens for almost 1.5 hours, which is not bad.  Of course with such a large mass it's not a big achievement.


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## markr6 (Sep 22, 2015)

Sound like Nitecore needs some driver help in general.


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## Timothybil (Sep 25, 2015)

akhyar said:


> I do agree that it is more difficult to find stock button-top IMR batteries, unless we go the rewrappers route souch as those for KP, Efest, etc.


I just ordered four of the Nitecore NI18650A 2000 mAh cells from Gear Best when I ordered the light. They were like $8.00 USD each. I realize that is a big difference than the 3600 mAh ICR cells available, but my understanding is that IMR cells don't have the power density of ICR cells anyway, and I like the fact that I know I am making available all the power needed to get the max out of my light.

What I don't understand is why it is almost impossible to find a US seller of Nitecore IMR cells. They don't even have them listed on their website. From everything I can tell looking at the cells and how they perform, they don't seem to be counterfeit, so what gives? Anyone have any ideas?


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## akhyar (Sep 26, 2015)

I'm not a fan of flashlight brand batteries, coz for all we know, they just outsource to OEM rewrapper and charge premium for their brands.
Nitecore batteries are on the expensive side and I'd rather buy batteries from Keeppower, Efest or factory brand. If I want to splurge, I'll buy AW


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## Parrot Quack (Sep 26, 2015)

Timothybil said:


> Anyone have any ideas?



I gave up and now buy Orbtronic and Simon 3400 mAh 18650 batteries. Yes, a few dollars more but oh well. At some-time-and-point, I gave in, said they won, buy and get on with my life. Good batteries, good charger, stupid life.

My above is a suggestion and a revelation of what I do.

FWIW, I have the TM16 and as a light, I love it.


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## billcushman (Oct 3, 2015)

After buying a Nitecore TM16, I read several reviews of the Acebeam K60 and wanted to really compare both lights, so I purchased an Acebeam K60. 

The K60 heats very quickly, especially in the area of the adjustment ring. That area is hot when the fins on the head are barely warm. After 2 minutes when the K60 steps down on level 6, the adjustment ring is almost too hot to touch, but can be rotated if you do it quickly. The fins on the K60 head heat at a much slower rate. The TM16 heats much less in the area of the switch. I suspect that the plastic reflector on the TM16 uses a trick employed by Kodak on slide projectors. The Kodak trick was to use a dichroic reflector coating on a plastic reflector that allowed visual light to be reflected but infrared heat to pass thru. With a conventional metal reflector that effective and clever method is not possible. 

I expected to really like the battery carrier on the K60, but find it is a lot more trouble and slower than just dropping the batteries in on the TM16. The battery carrier adds complexity and weight. Aligning the pins on the TM16 cap is somewhat difficult but you get better with practice.

The flat regulation of the K60 is much better than the continuously declining output of the TM16 at the highest level. The TM16 has an area of declining output at the end on all levels. The K60 has absolutely flat regulation at all levels except for the timed two minute drop down on level 6. 

The variable frequency strobe of the K60 is very effective. The light reminds me of my Jetbeam RRT-3 (SST-50). The variable frequency strobe plays crazy tricks with your eyes and is superior to the fixed frequency strobe of the TM16. 

I am using Samsung button top 25R 20A 2500mAh INR batteries in both lights for best performance. The beam intensity on my TM16 is about 135000 Candelas measured at 5 meters. The beam intensity of my K60 is about 155000 Candelas under the same conditions. The TM16 output is voltage sensitive, the K60 is not. Measurement on both were taken with the batteries fully charged using a Extech EA33. The central hot spot on my K60 appears slightly dimmer in the center. This is apparent when moving the beam sideways, but barely detectable when the light is stationary. 

The TM16 voltage indicator in the switch is a nice feature. The TM16 will not work with flat top batteries, The K60 uses either flat top or button top batteries. The Nitecore TM16 is widely available at US dealers. The K60 is not widely available at US dealers and is usually ordered from dealers in Hong Kong or China. 

Both the Nitecore TM16 and Acebeam K60 are excellent high quality flashlights, very similar in output and size. Hopefully these observations will help you decide which is better for you.


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## facepalm69 (Dec 27, 2015)

Has anyone had experience running the TM16 with 4x KeepPower 18650 3500mAh's (protected)? Any CD/Lumen measurements?

Since they can deliver 10A and got a low internal resistance the output should be higher with them than with some Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh's, right?


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## selfbuilt (Dec 27, 2015)

facepalm69 said:


> Since they can deliver 10A and got a low internal resistance the output should be higher with them than with some Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh's, right?


I would expect any difference to be pretty minimal - certainly not visually detectable. It is only in the most heavily-driven lights that I can even measure a slight difference with high-current rated cells.


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## Dubripper (Dec 27, 2015)

Is there any way I can request a proper review for a flashlight that no one person on the entire internet has yet to review?


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## facepalm69 (Dec 28, 2015)

selfbuilt said:


> I would expect any difference to be pretty minimal - certainly not visually detectable. It is only in the most heavily-driven lights that I can even measure a slight difference with high-current rated cells.



Oh too bad. So I basically wasted 55$ on 4 of them... NCR18650B's would have done it as well then.

Thanks for the info!


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## Roger Ranger (Feb 24, 2016)

TM16 STANDBY DRAIN. I purchased my TM16, with 4 Nitecore NL189 3400mAh cells, in mid-September of 2015. After playing with the light for a while, I charged the batteries to 4.16v on a Nitecore D4 and put the light in my car's center console. I did not put the light in standby mode. Five months later, (today) I checked the batteries' voltage: Two cells were 3.96v and two were 4.02v.


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## markr6 (Feb 24, 2016)

Roger Ranger said:


> TM16 STANDBY DRAIN. I purchased my TM16, with 4 Nitecore NL189 3400mAh cells, in mid-September of 2015. After playing with the light for a while, I charged the batteries to 4.16v on a Nitecore D4 and put the light in my car's center console. I did not put the light in standby mode. Five months later, (today) I checked the batteries' voltage: Two cells were 3.96v and two were 4.02v.



I could accept the drain, but definitely not the difference between the two pairs.


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## NoNotAgain (Feb 24, 2016)

Roger Ranger said:


> TM16 STANDBY DRAIN.I did not put the light in standby mode. Five months later, (today) I checked the batteries' voltage: Two cells were 3.96v and two were 4.02v.



In the scheme of things, .06 volts difference between cells after 5 months of inactivity for a light that wasn't even on stand-by is great power management.

One of my TM06's was left in the same condition, not locked out, but inadvertently left on stand-by. Two cells were 4.0 volts, two cells didn't register on my VOM. I was using non-protected cells, so the two with zero volts went into the recycle bin.

Label the cells, 1-4, recharge them and monitor for the next couple of charge cycles. I suspect that your batteries are fine.


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## markr6 (Feb 24, 2016)

NoNotAgain said:


> In the scheme of things, .06 volts difference between cells after 5 months of inactivity for a light that wasn't even on stand-by is great power management.




Like I said, I could accept the drain, but definitely not the difference between the two pairs. In multicell lights, like my MX25L3C, I really like the cells to drain evenly...and they always do.


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## Roger Ranger (Feb 24, 2016)

markr6 said:


> Like I said, I could accept the drain, but definitely not the difference between the two pairs. In multicell lights, like my MX25L3C, I really like the cells to drain evenly...and they always do.



I agree. Generally, if one in a set of four starts acting funny, it becomes a set of three and a single. These are the batteries that came with the light. I'm going to use the light for a while and monitor things.


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## Timothybil (Feb 24, 2016)

markr6 said:


> I could accept the drain, but definitely not the difference between the two pairs.


We're talking about 0.06 volts difference here. That is well within the tolerance of both the cells and the meter. When the difference gets above 0.1v then I'll start worrying.


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## stfc69 (Feb 25, 2016)

I know we have to be careful with these batteries but I think you can be over cautious. 
How do you know that the charger is displaying the exact voltage or is charging each cell to the exact same voltage?


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## markr6 (Feb 25, 2016)

Timothybil said:


> We're talking about 0.06 volts difference here. That is well within the tolerance of both the cells and the meter. When the difference gets above 0.1v then I'll start worrying.



You're right, but at what point will they get to that difference. Seems like a gamble to me; something that is going to get worse, not better. Or maybe this was just dumb luck, but I doubt it.


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## primopup (Mar 20, 2016)

i couldn't resist, i had to buy them both, the TM16GT as well.. Thank you for the review.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 21, 2016)

primopup said:


> i couldn't resist, i had to buy them both, the TM16GT as well.. Thank you for the review.


Glad you found it useful.

And :welcome:


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