# IMR26500 Fitment [pictures added]



## ElectronGuru (Apr 24, 2009)

I absolutely love the new IMR16340, what a tiny powerhouse. So much, that I've been quietly (and not so quietly) building an ecosystem with this cell and its big brother, the IMR26500. But the larger cell is proving to be a scooch _to_ big in the diameter department. 


Breaking out my entire C sized collection, here are the results:

FiveMega 2C - won't go in
Newer black Mag 2C - stuck (pictured)
Newer pewter Mag 2C - stuck
Newer violet Mag 2C - stuck
Newer HA (was black) Mag 2C - stuck
Newer black Mag 3C - stuck
Older (pre 2001) purple Mag 2C - snug (pictured)
Older (pre 2001) pewter Mag 3C - stuck
Older (pre 2001) green Mag 3C - stuck

With the recent demise of our beloved AW protected C, we need some fixes for AW's newest super C cell.



A few pictures that show clear hieght differences and very little girth differences.













Please note, the IMR cell is not as tall as it appears. 
The top button is actually recessed inside the flexible orange collar.







Here's the old/purple body that holds and the new/black body that sticks


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## wquiles (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*

As soon as I get my cells I will report on how much internal boring might be needed 

Will


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## csshih (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*

just a weeeee bit, apparently, if they;re just getting stuck on a few.


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## 737mech (Apr 25, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*

Brand new Mag 2C Pewter I could not get my new AW 26500 cells in without force. They were so tight it was creating a vacuum. I had to take apart the light and sand the tube. It took me about 15 -20 minutes of sanding with my cordless drill and a long mandrel with a medium grit sanding drum installed. They fit great now!


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## wquiles (Apr 25, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*



737mech said:


> Brand new Mag 2C Pewter I could not get my new AW 26500 cells in without force. They were so tight it was creating a vacuum. I had to take apart the light and sand the tube. It took me about 15 -20 minutes of sanding with my cordless drill and a long mandrel with a medium grit sanding drum installed. They fit great now!



That is what I am expecting to find, that taking 1 to 2 mills will be enough. The great thing about it, is that taking that small amount of metal is (as you found out) easy to do with hand tools - no fancy lathe needed 

Will


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## Bones (Apr 25, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*

To make the job go a little quicker, Sears has this 21.4 to 50.8mm cylinder hone on sale for 3.97:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904656000P
.


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## Turbo Guy (Apr 25, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*

Dumb question but I wonder why they did not keep the max. cell dia. to the C cell standard?

Could it be the casing is the correst size but they used really thick(heavy duty) sleeving(lable) material? I know I have stripped cells in the past and used thinner heatskrink on them to get the dia. down. Common heatshrink runs from about 0.006 to 0.012".


Then againg perhaps it is the Mag's fault. My very old 5 C Cell has no problem with the LiFePO4 26650 cells I use and they are 1.035

My C cell Mag's bore is 1.050" and is serial # 50127491, an oldie but a goodie.


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## rjr104 (Apr 25, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*

Does anyone have the new battery to mic? Mine are on order but not here yet. I took some duct tape and wrapped it around a duracell and got 1.025 to work on the new pewter and old (no c prefix) silver with reliability. My new purple is a no-go.


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## willrx (Apr 25, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*

Very helpful information, thanks for posting. Has anyone tested an older style Maglite-no letter in the SN?


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## ElectronGuru (Apr 25, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*



Turbo Guy said:


> Dumb question but I wonder why they did not keep the max. cell dia. to the C cell standard?
> 
> Could it be the casing is the correct size but they used really thick(heavy duty) sleeving(lable) material? I know I have stripped cells in the past and used thinner heatskrink on them to get the dia. down. Common heatshrink runs from about 0.006 to 0.012".



Entire ecosystems of custom and customized hosts and parts have formed up around AWs previous C efforts. In those cases, there were specific and important reasons for the size differences. This is likely the case here, just for different reasons. 

I'm hoping you are right and that changes to the shrink wrap will magic bullet this problem.




willrx said:


> Has anyone tested an older style Maglite-no letter in the SN?



Yes, all three of my older (pre 2001) are no C in the serial number. One of them (the true purple) is natively wide enough, but I still need an anchor magnet to pull out the cells. The others, old and new, require removing the switch.


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## 737mech (Apr 25, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*



rjr104 said:


> Does anyone have the new battery to mic? Mine are on order but not here yet. I took some duct tape and wrapped it around a duracell and got 1.025 to work on the new pewter and old (no c prefix) silver with reliability. My new purple is a no-go.


 
Just measured my AW C cell
Width= 1.033"
Height= 1.955"


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## cmacclel (Apr 25, 2009)

WOW!

What good is a "C" cell if it don't fit in a "C" body  

Bummer!

If anyone needs boring done you can always ask one of the guys 

Mac


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## wquiles (Apr 25, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*



737mech said:


> Just measured my AW C cell
> Width= 1.033"
> Height= 1.955"



My old body "C" measured about 1.050", and two of my new ones measured at 1.035", while the 3rd (which has been HAIII) measured 1.039", so as noted earlier there is variability from body to body. It definitely looks a tad "tight" for the new "C" bodies. 

Those who measured the new cells, can you post all measurements for each cell that you got? I would like to know how much variance do we have cell to cell as well 

Will


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## ElectronGuru (Apr 25, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*



wquiles said:


> Those who measured the new cells, can you post all measurements for each cell that you got? I would like to know how much variance do we have cell to cell as well





737mech said:


> Just measured my AW C cell
> Width= 1.033"
> Height= 1.955"



In early tests, I noticed that the - end goes in easier than the + end. In subsequent tests, the cells are thickest above and below the channel/groove near the top (+ end). Where on the cell does the 1.033 measurement come from?


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## 737mech (Apr 25, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*

From its widest part on the + end. The width of course varies just a bit and this was my widest measurement. 

edit:
just remeasured: 
+ end = 1.033"
- end = 1.032"
center = 1.032"


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## QtrHorse (Apr 25, 2009)

On my two 26500 cells, the negative side is just a tad more narrow than the positive side. The NEG side will slightly slide in the C Mag tube but gets stuck about 1/4 of the way in, the POS side will not go in at all.

My blue/ purplish Mag C is 26.26mm/ 1.034in ID. 

1st 26500 cell = 50mm/ 1.964 L X 26.24mm/ 1.0325in W
2nd 26500 cell = 49.97mm/ 1.9675in L X 26.22mm/ 1.0325 W

I was holding/ putting pressure on the caliper when I took the measurements. That must be the reason they would not fit inside my Mag C because it is about .04mm wider than the most narrow cell I have.

I cut a very small pc of the shrink wrap from one cell and it measured .20mm thick on my cheap $40 digital caliper. If you removed the shrink wrap completely, one might gain an additional .40mm and that should make the 26500 cell usable in a Mag C tube .


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## wquiles (Apr 25, 2009)

QtrHorse said:


> On my two 26500 cells, the negative side is just a tad more narrow than the positive side. The NEG side will slightly slide in the C Mag tube but gets stuck about 1/4 of the way in, the POS side will not go in at all.
> 
> My blue/ purplish Mag C is 26.26mm/ 1.034in ID.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the additional data points. I would be weary of removing the shrink wrap - unless you replace it with some other thin isolator like Kapton tape or something similar:
http://www.kaptontape.com/

Also, on most all calipers, measurement past the 1 mill is beyond the accuracy of the device (never mind that the display shows you 1/2 mill resolution). You really need a micrometer to get accurate, repeatable measurements at the 1 mill or less.

Will


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## QtrHorse (Apr 25, 2009)

No matter how much pressure I put on the caliper, it would not move from .20mm when I measured the thickness of the shrink wrap. I figured it was not all that accurate at that range. Now your going to make me dig out my micrometer to get a correct thickness.

I personally am not going to remove the shrink wrap because the red/ orange color looks so nice.


Edit;

I just checked and the new IMR26500 cells do not fit in my Fivemega Surefire C head/ C cell body lights.:mecry:

I have two of these bodies (1C and 2C) and no batteries to fit in them. I guess it's back to begging for someone to sell me a few of the older AW C cells.

I'm betting the added thickness was just a tool die mistake on the molds. I'm no battery expert but I don't see why the 26500 would not work being the same thickness (.5mm thinner) as the old cells.


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## LIGHTSMAD (Apr 26, 2009)

cmacclel said:


> WOW!
> 
> What good is a "C" cell if it don't fit in a "C" body
> 
> ...


 

i have 2X 2C MAG's and 1X FM 2C...can you pm me for boring them.

im ordring 26500's and should have them on thurs!


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## ElectronGuru (Apr 27, 2009)

Throwing caution to the wind, I through two IMR26500's, fresh off the charger at a few bulbs:

ROP Low - good
ROP High - 
WA 1111 - 
Philips 5761 -


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## lctorana (Apr 27, 2009)

ElectronGuru said:


> Throwing caution to the wind, I through two IMR26500's, fresh off the charger at a few bulbs:
> 
> ROP Low - good
> ROP High -
> ...


Please don't think I'm saying "I told you so", because that's not what I mean.

But these cells are large, the Mn chemistry seems to have inherently low voltage sag, so even at high current load, we could see 8V at the bulb when the cells are well charged.

The RoP-low has been documented by LL with a high flashpoint, and the two bulbs that strike me as suitable for 2cell use are the 1274 and the Pelican #3853H (the 7.2V version of the RoP-high) bi-pin and potted respectively. And, of course, the #3853L, needless to say.

I was fully expecting these cells not to fit the 2C Mag barrel, so I hung off purchasing either these cells or a scarily expensive Maglite until the dust has settled and an approach to the problem has been standardized.

Perhaps some enterprising Yank might consider buying some C Mags and bore them out for CPF resale...


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## greenpea76 (Apr 27, 2009)

I am so ashamed to admit that I ruined a perfectly good 1C fivemega body a few nights ago while trying to bore it out slightly to fit the IMR 26500. The cell is just too wide. The fivemega bodies are so thin at the tailcap o-ring area, that my lathe just turned a threaded tailcap ring right off! 
I ended up removing the red shrink wrap on my 26500's and using kapton tape to re-wrap the cells and its a perfect almost airtight fit for the fivemega 2C body. I have that coupled with a Turbo head and a P4 tower module from AW and it's just the perfect size now! Too bad there will be no more 1C bodies to be made 

I'll try to post pics of the ruined body tomorrow night.


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## ElectronGuru (Apr 27, 2009)

Man, we are learning a lot. Perhaps I should have named this the trial-n-error thread!




lctorana said:


> The RoP-low has been documented by LL with a high flashpoint, and the two bulbs that strike me as suitable for 2cell use are the 1274 and the Pelican #3853H (the 7.2V version of the RoP-high) bi-pin and potted respectively. And, of course, the #3853L, needless to say.



Wow, been on here for two years and I've never even heard of the 3853's, only the 6v 3854's. 
Looking around they barely exist, but they do:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/103987

I loaned out my MM, but theoretically these cells were charged to 4.2v, so 8.4v might be perfect for overdriving a 7.2v bulb. It would also solve an unrelated poof issue I've been dealing with. Many thanks lctorana! I wonder why these 3853's are so rarely mentioned? :thinking:





greenpea76 said:


> I ruined a perfectly good 1C fivemega body a few nights ago while trying to bore it out slightly to fit the IMR 26500. The cell is just too wide. The fivemega bodies are so thin at the tailcap o-ring area, that my lathe just turned a threaded tailcap ring right off!



Sorry about that, an FM body is way more to trash than a few bulbs, and the coveted 1C at that. Thanks for the info though, if the kapton is thin enough to get these cells into a smaller FM, it should be more than thin enough for the Mags. I wonder if it comes in a *matching color*?


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## ANDREAS FERRARI (Apr 27, 2009)

lctorana said:


> The RoP-low has been documented by LL with a high flashpoint, and the two bulbs that strike me as suitable for 2cell use are the 1274 and the Pelican #3853H (the 7.2V version of the RoP-high) bi-pin and potted respectively. And, of course, the #3853L, needless to say.



I have never heard of a 3853H or L before! Couldn't find them at Pelican's website.Are they available anymore?


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## mdocod (Apr 27, 2009)

Nothing a 1-1/16" drill bit can't solve.....


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## lctorana (Apr 27, 2009)

mdocod said:


> Nothing a 1-1/16" drill bit can't solve.....


Assuming you have a lathe, or a bench drill, and way more courage than I will ever posess.


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## Techjunkie (Apr 27, 2009)

mdocod said:


> Nothing a 1-1/16" drill bit can't solve.....


 
Would that clear the threads? Do the batteries clear the threads OK, or are they snug there too? I once bored out a 4D mag with a 35mm hole saw. It was messy, but it was a LOT faster than honing.


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## wquiles (Apr 27, 2009)

greenpea76 said:


> I am so ashamed to admit that I ruined a perfectly good 1C fivemega body a few nights ago while trying to bore it out slightly to fit the IMR 26500. The cell is just too wide. The fivemega bodies are so thin at the tailcap o-ring area, that my lathe just turned a threaded tailcap ring right off!


Do you remember how much metal were you boring off with the lathe? How many 0.001's were you taking off?

Will


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## greenpea76 (Apr 27, 2009)

wquiles said:


> Do you remember how much metal were you boring off with the lathe? How many 0.001's were you taking off?
> 
> Will


 

No, I don't remember how much exactly. Sorry. It really is thin in that area and I didn't pay attention to the original thickness so I am quite embarrassed. I threaded the tailcap and the threaded section came right off.


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## QtrHorse (Apr 27, 2009)

I measured 26mm ID on my FM Surefire head/ C cell tube. I also measured 1.2mm for the wall thickness at the threads. I'm sure this is not all that accurate because I took these measurement with my caliper and not a micrometer (still cannot find my micrometer).

The threads are on the outside of the FM/ Surefire tubes where you insert the batteries just in case someone did not have one in hand.


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## greenpea76 (Apr 27, 2009)

If you find your mic, measure from the tailcap oring groove. It's much thinner.


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## ElectronGuru (Apr 27, 2009)

The more time I spend pulling the cells in and out, the easier its becoming to pull the cells in and out. Thinking it might be possible to actually narrow the cells rather than open the light, I tried something:



Holding half a cell in one hand and 600 grit wet/dry sand paper in the other, spin the cell enough to saturate the paper. Move to a fresh section of paper and repeat. When finished with a row, trim it off with scissors. Doing a single cell to the level shown took about 60% of one sheet.









Starting with the top half, spin the cell a few dozen times, then flip it around and do the bottom half. Go back and forth until you reach the desired level. I did mine next to an exhaust fan and cleaned the cell before each test fit. A bit past when you see numbers start to show through...








The top outer "ring" comes off, creating a cool Black Top appearance.








The result is a cell that is both smaller and smoother (that's not camera blur)








Retesting all the C lights, the differences now come down to, of all things, air pressure. The less air tight a light is, the faster the battery moves in and out. Take out the lens/reflector, it flies (< 1 second). Push aside the switch cover, it crawls (~4 seconds). Leave it sealed but give it time and gravity (~10 seconds), works with every Mag shown here. Trying it with the FM-C, the cell now goes inside the body, if only half an inch (both directions).









I've only done this with one cell so far and haven't decided if I want to remove more material. Were I trying to get it to fit the FM, I certainly would try. Also, its not clear how much coverage the black and orange shells share. They are perfectly doubled at the top but I don't see any evidence that the black shell wraps around the bottom.

Extra tip: The first few test fits, the cell came out of some lights with a dirty coating. In these cases, there was also more friction. I recommend swabbing the inside of the barrel with rubbing alcohol.​


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## wquiles (Apr 27, 2009)

Today I got a "Sorry We Missed You!" note from USPS, so my cells have arrived. I will pick them up in the morning, but it will not be until tomorrow after work that I will be able to "play" with them. At least they are here 

Will


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## ElectronGuru (Apr 27, 2009)

ANDREAS FERRARI said:


> I have never heard of a 3853H or L before! Couldn't find them at Pelican's website.Are they available anymore?




3853's are much less common than 3854's, but they're around:

http://www.pelican.com/lights_detail_accessories.php?recordID=3850N
http://www.pelicanproducts.us/p.Pelican.Big.D.Xenon.Lamp.NiMH.3853.html

http://www.opticsplanet.net/pelican-big-d-rech-3850-nicad-xenon-lamp-module-3853.html
http://www.night-optics.com/ts-pe-za-3850-352-000.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=506256&Q=&is=REG&A=details
http://www.batterystation.com/flashlight_lamps.htm​

and based on the B&H's notice, they are still being produced


> This is not a regularly stocked item. Estimated arrival at B&H is 7-14 business days.


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## brunt_sp (Apr 28, 2009)

Another one for the list : BigLeef - Won't go in.
I've bought a cylinder hone but haven't used it yet. I may try ElectronGuru's idea of sandpaper on the cells first because it appears the problem is the fact that the ends of the cell bulge out so much.


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## ANDREAS FERRARI (Apr 28, 2009)

Thank you for compiling that list ElectronGuru.I think I'm going to pick up a few.I have 2 or 3 ROP's but maybe I can upgrade them with this bulb and create a new light-the ROP Extreme!!!:devil:


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## lctorana (Apr 28, 2009)

Apart from diameter issues, has anyone found contact issues with the flattish top pip against the positive spring?

I've had problems with the positive spring in D-mags, and assume C-mags would be similar...


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## Seiko (Apr 28, 2009)

C mags don't use a spring for positive contact like the D's do.
They use a flat bit of copper in its place. There are no problems with contact with the new IMR's.

Still a bit cheesed off that the batteries are so out of spec to a stock C....... But what fun would flashlights be if they worked right out of the box.:devil:


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## wquiles (Apr 28, 2009)

OK, I picked up my cells this morning. I don't have a micrometer, but I have two very accurate calipers (at least to the 0.001"), a Mitutoyo with carbide jaws and a Starrett #123. Although a micrometer would give accuracy under 0.001", by using two good calipers I can get a good enough idea of what we are facing.

A few things I noted:
- you can't put much pressure (or any) on the jaws of a caliper when measuring - you will always get flex from the shrink wrap and end up with a smaller measurement (which is not "real" since it was taken in compression).

- the shrink wrap does have some compression - this is why you can force cells "into" the tube, but then you can't get them out.

- the AW oval sticker adds about 0.001" to the overall diameter - I would take those off before you do anything else!

- the diameter along the cell is not constant, not just up and down, but also as you take measurements and rotate the cell, so it is easy to measure the cells as being smaller than they really are.

- the shrink wrap has two seams (180 deg appart), and these seen to be "high" points while taking measurements, which get worst towards the "+" side of the cell. I feel that these contribute to the variation I am measuring.

- there is not "huge" variation cell to cell. From the 6 cells I got, I say less than 0.002" variation, with the majority being at 0.001" from each other.


===> With both calipers, measuring the 6 new cells "at the widest point" came out to 1.035" to 1.037", which is 0.001" to 0.002" larger than my new "C" lights.

===> Only one cell came out to 1.035" - all other ones were 1.036", except one that was 1.037". Although this is not a large sample, statistically speaking, it does follow the typicall bell curve.


If I were boring a "C" light to make sure the new cells fit, I would bore the interior diameter to at least 1.038", to make sure all new cells would fit. 

Longer term, I would think constructive feedback for AW would be to attempt to make the next batch 0.002" smaller in diameter, and not put the little AW oval sticker on the cells.

Will


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## Bimmerboy (Apr 28, 2009)

lctorana said:


> Apart from diameter issues, has anyone found contact issues with the flattish top pip against the positive spring?
> 
> I've had problems with the positive spring in D-mags, and assume C-mags would be similar...



If I'm understanding the issue correctly, for D Mags, you can solve that by cutting away the plastic ring that surrounds the positive spring, and the "ribs" that span out from it. This will allow the spring, and flat top to make contact.


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## wquiles (Apr 28, 2009)

Bimmerboy said:


> If I'm understanding the issue correctly, for D Mags, you can solve that by cutting away the plastic ring that surrounds the positive spring, and the "ribs" that span out from it. This will allow the spring, and flat top to make contact.



That is "exactly" how I solve the problem on my custom 1xD's:












Will


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## wquiles (Apr 28, 2009)

Seiko said:


> They use a flat bit of copper in its place. There are no problems with contact with the new IMR's.



From the 6 cells that I got this morning, I would say that it is "very" close to having a contact problem. On all of my cells, the "+" button is below the shrink wrap, but since it compresses a little, most of the time if you are using just one cell, it would be OK. I feel the problem is more likely to be found if you have then in series, since you then have the negative side of the shrink wrap as an insulator. It would certainly be better and more reliable if the "+" button were a few mils higher.

Will


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## Techjunkie (Apr 28, 2009)

I prepped two of my Mag 2Cs for the 4 cells I'm waiting on. I wrapped my brake hone, which by now has the 240grit stones completely worn off, first in 40 grit adhesive backed sand paper and then in 100 grit. Trimming the interior down to the level of the threads goes a lot faster this way than with the original stones. Each was done in about 10 minutes.

To test the fit without actually having the IMR cells handy, I wrapped an NiMH C cell in masking tape until it would not fit into an unmodified C mag. The same cell slides in and out of the honed C mags slowly, but without need for smacking it against the palm of my hand.

I'm still concerned about the tolerances involved being too close. It seems to me that everyone is testing with the cells cold...

Don't they expand slightly when they heat up during use?


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## lctorana (Apr 28, 2009)

Techjunkie said:


> I'm still concerned about the tolerances involved being too close. It seems to me that everyone is testing with the cells cold...
> 
> Don't they expand slightly when they heat up during use?


Now *THERE*'s a good question!


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## jefft (Apr 28, 2009)

I find it a bit disheartening that this thread has to exist at all. I _almost_ fired off paypal for a bunch of these cells but I'm glad I didn't. I'll make do with my 8 original C lithiums until gen3 is available.


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## QtrHorse (Apr 28, 2009)

wquiles said:


> From the 6 cells that I got this morning, I would say that it is "very" close to having a contact problem. On all of my cells, the "+" button is below the shrink wrap, but since it compresses a little, most of the time if you are using just one cell, it would be OK. I feel the problem is more likely to be found if you have then in series, since you then have the negative side of the shrink wrap as an insulator. It would certainly be better and more reliable if the "+" button were a few mils higher.
> 
> Will


 
This is my biggest concern as well. I don't reel they make a good contact if I had three in series.


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## Techjunkie (Apr 28, 2009)

QtrHorse said:


> This is my biggest concern as well. I don't reel they make a good contact if I had three in series.


 
AW advises against the use of magnets, fearing a short, I assume between the button top and the high cuff, or perhaps the button top and the flashlight tube (- path). Battery manufacturers advise against directly soldering batteries.

Hyperon Ltd. HK published the following about assembling A123 packs using solder paste and a < 3 sec. touch with a very hot iron (not gun, iron), even though it's technically also inadvisable:

http://media.hyperion.hk/dn/a123/packassy/A123packassy.pdf

I'm wondering which is the lesser of the two evils, risking the use of the rare earth magnets that DX sells, or adding a bubble of solder (paste) to raise the positive contact.

The spring pressure might be enough in the Mag C's, but I also have Lowe's Task Force 2C's that I modified which have wimpy little springs...

I'm thinking the magnets are more risky because it takes less shock force to dislodge them than it would to dislodge solder on the terminal. You risk ruining the battery once with the solder, but every time you use the magnet.

There must be a better alternative, like maybe a thin plastic disc (.5mm) with an Aluminum rivet through it to put between the batteries.


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## gswitter (Apr 28, 2009)

jefft said:


> I find it a bit disheartening that this thread has to exist at all. I _almost_ fired off paypal for a bunch of these cells but I'm glad I didn't. I'll make do with my 8 original C lithiums until gen3 is available.


+1


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## wquiles (Apr 28, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*



wquiles said:


> My old body "C" measured about 1.050", and two of my new ones measured at 1.035", while the 3rd (which has been HAIII) measured 1.039", so as noted earlier there is variability from body to body. It definitely looks a tad "tight" for the new "C" bodies.
> 
> Those who measured the new cells, can you post all measurements for each cell that you got? I would like to know how much variance do we have cell to cell as well
> 
> Will



I got home, and sure enough, my measurements from this morning are now confirmed with the bodies I measured earlier:

- new IMR cells and my old "C" Mag with ID=1.050" => works

- new IMR cells and my new "C", but HAIII with ID=1.039" => works

- new IMR cells and my new "C" bodies with ID=1.035" => does not work


Will


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## Bimmerboy (Apr 28, 2009)

QtrHorse said:


> I don't reel they make a good contact if I had three in series.


When pressing two together in series by hand, and rubbing them around, I feel the scraping of metal to metal contact. The _correct amount of spring pressure for your mod_ will generate a much greater contact force than we can do by hand. We'll likely be fine contact-wise.

This estimation will be put to the test as I plan on putting five of 'em end to end in one mod, and four in another. I'll be shooting for approx. the same, or just slightly more than stock Mag pressure.




Techjunkie said:


> There must be a better alternative, like maybe a thin plastic disc (.5mm) with an Aluminum rivet through it to put between the batteries.


Yes, magnets are a truly dangerous solution without any form of mechanical short prevention. They can, *and probably will slip* with just a hard smack of the light against your palm If truly needed, you can do something like this. CPF member Donn_ has an impressive variety of good quality ones as well. They're shown in one of his sales threads from some months back... I forget which.


----------



## QtrHorse (Apr 29, 2009)

Bimmerboy said:


> When pressing two together in series by hand, and rubbing them around, I feel the scraping of metal to metal contact. The _correct amount of spring pressure for your mod_ will generate a much greater contact force than we can do by hand. We'll likely be fine contact-wise.
> 
> This estimation will be put to the test as I plan on putting five of 'em end to end in one mod, and four in another. I'll be shooting for approx. the same, or just slightly more than stock Mag pressure.


 
I would like to know how this works for you. I am looking to do the same thing. I would like to use 4 end to end to power a 64623 bulb with a soft start switch.


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## Bimmerboy (Apr 29, 2009)

QtrHorse said:


> I would like to know how this works for you. I am looking to do the same thing. I would like to use 4 end to end to power a 64623 bulb with a soft start switch.



Waitin' on my incan regulators, but will make sure to let you know, QH. :thumbsup:


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## Wattnot (Apr 29, 2009)

We need to hold a candlelight vigil to get the 3300 black labels back. :candle::candle::candle::candle::candle: :candle::candle::candle::candle::candle: :candle::candle::candle::candle::candle:


----------



## nailbender (Apr 29, 2009)

jefft said:


> I find it a bit disheartening that this thread has to exist at all. I _almost_ fired off paypal for a bunch of these cells but I'm glad I didn't. I'll make do with my 8 original C lithiums until gen3 is available.



If I would have only of had so much sense, I bought ten and have yet to find a light out of all of mine that they will fit except a D Mag. 
Looks like I will be spending lots cash on boring, sure was looking forward to my FM 3 C with a C Head. Oh Well live and learn sure not what I expected when buying C batteries. 

Dave


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## Jay T (Apr 29, 2009)

For my Mag623 I stripped the anodizong from the ID of a black 4C MAG, The cells fit very tightly. For my ROP I did the light sanding of the wrapper and they slide right into my purple 2C mag. There has been no problem with the cells making contact.


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## ElectronGuru (Apr 29, 2009)

Following up:




greenpea76 said:


> I ended up removing the red shrink wrap on my 26500's and using kapton tape to re-wrap the cells and its a perfect almost airtight fit for the fivemega 2C body.



Did you also remove the black layer before applying the Kapton? May I ask what you found under the red shrink wrap? For example, how much does the black wrap layer also cover? Do you have any pictures of the 'naked' cell?




lctorana said:


> But these cells are large, the Mn chemistry seems to have inherently low voltage sag, so even at high current load, we could see 8V at the bulb when the cells are well charged.



Here's an update on my testing

*2x - IMR26500* (7.4 - 8.4 volts)
3854 ROP Low - GOOD
3854 ROP High -  (0.2 under?)
3853 ROP Low - GOOD
3853 ROP High - GOOD
Philips 5761 -  (0.5 over)
WA 1111 -  (0.1 over)
WA 1274 - GOOD (9.1 limit)
Osram 64250 -  (0.3 over)
Osram 64275 -  (0.3 over)
Osram 64430 - GOOD (10.9 limit)


*3x - IMR26500* (11.1 - 12.6 volts)
WA 1331 -  (0.6 over)
WA 1185 -  (0.3 over) <- safe after resting
WA 1166 - GOOD (14.1 limit)


*4x - IMR26500* (14.8 - 16.8 volts)
Osram 64610 -  (2.3 over)
Osram 62138 -  (1.8 over)
Osram 64625 -  (2.4 over)
Osram 64623 - GOOD (16.9 limit)
Osram 64458 - GOOD (21.5 limit)​


So how hard is it to get a charger to stop at 4.0 or 4.1 volts?





wquiles said:


> If I were boring a "C" light to make sure the new cells fit, I would bore the interior diameter to at least 1.038", to make sure all new cells would fit.



Any updates Will?




QtrHorse said:


> I don't feel they make a good contact if I had three in series.



AW stated that these work with standard Mag spring pressure. My experience is that these where designed to work together, in series. Borrowing from physics (ala hydraulic pressure), any amount of pressure against the last cell, puts and equal amount of pressure between each cell. The only times this would not be the case are 

When the cells are rubbing, each new cell adds to the contact resistance, requiring additional force against the last cell. (so when we fix this rubbing issue...)
If each cell is shorter than the host is designed for (not the case here), every additional cell increases the length the spring(s) have to travel, reducing the spring's clamp force.
As with Jay-T, even with the current friction, I've had zero contact issues with my Mag 3C testing.

Has anyone put cells in a "fixed" (host or cells) configuration and had them not connect/work?


----------



## 737mech (Apr 29, 2009)

So it looks like I may only have 2 bulb options for my two MAG 2C incans(one with AW soft start and the other bi-pin adapter) WA 1274 or Osram 64430... is this right ElectronGuru? I only have 5761's now and they work but probably because I have not been able to charge the cells yet because I need to get a charger. As far as chargers can someone recommend a good charger for these cells? One that I can charge at least 2 at a time.


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## ElectronGuru (Apr 29, 2009)

My 3C was fine with the 1185 until I recharged the cells, then it poofed. But, 24 hours later and the same cells don't poof. I don't know yet what the minimum rest period is.

My 2C was awesome with the 5761 until I recharged the cells, but I don't have a second 5761 to test with. Lesson: test the configurations LESS likely to poof first and work your way up. While not a proper 5761 replacement, a potentially awesome bulb with two cells will be the 7.2v ROP high (on its way). 

The 1185 is 0.3 volts over its limit but is fine after resting the cells. The 1111 is only 0.1 volts over so it should be fine too. The 0.5 of the 5761 is less clear.


I'm still new to some of these bulbs, but it seems to me that this cell demands a new level of toughness from them. On the flip side, we can now go to unheard of amperage. I'm wondering if there is some high amp bulb(s) that's resting in a dusty corner of CPF because it was to demanding until now?

This is considered the C size Li-Ion (including IMRs) charger of choice but its one cell per unit:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=160022


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## wquiles (Apr 29, 2009)

ElectronGuru said:


> Any updates Will?



Only the update I posted above:

*****************************************************
I got home, and sure enough, my measurements from this morning are now confirmed with the bodies I measured earlier:

- new IMR cells and my old "C" Mag with ID=1.050" => works

- new IMR cells and my new "C", but HAIII with ID=1.039" => works

- new IMR cells and my new "C" bodies with ID=1.035" => does not work

*******************************************************


I am not going to touch/modify the cells - I am planning to do ID boring on my new "C" bodies.

Will


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## ElectronGuru (May 1, 2009)

wquiles said:


> I am planning to do ID boring on my new "C" bodies.



I'm looking forward to seeing your results!


----------



## strideredc (May 2, 2009)

why make these cells to big for a c size mag? what was the point of that


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## Techjunkie (May 2, 2009)

strideredc said:


> why make these cells to big for a c size mag? what was the point of that


 
The intent was for the batteries to be standard C size. I think the result was an oversight that's just too expensive to correct.

I received mine a few days ago. They were still a tight fit after the initial honing that I had already performed. This second time around I added lateral pressure to the brake hone by flexing the shaft around in circles in the opposite direction it was spinning. After the 40 grit sandpaper then 100 grit, I finished off with 000 steel wool. The inside of the Mag C tubes has an almost mirror polish to it now and with the AW stickers removed, the 26500s slide in and out nicely, but slowly due to air pressure. There's (hopefully) just enough room for expansion, although I have my doubts that these will heat up at all in my meager 30W LED application (driving 3 MC-Es from 2 batteries).


----------



## wquiles (May 2, 2009)

Techjunkie said:


> There's (hopefully) just enough room for expansion, although I have my doubts that these will heat up at all in my meager 30W LED application (driving 3 MC-Es from 2 batteries).


How are you wiring/driving the 3x MC-E's from the two IMR cells?

Will


----------



## Techjunkie (May 2, 2009)

wquiles said:


> How are you wiring/driving the 3x MC-E's from the two IMR cells?
> 
> Will


 
Each MC-E is wired 2p2s and then all three are wired in paralllel. The IMRs don't sag at all under this load, so I had to add about a quarter of an ohm of resistance with my "IMR resistance module":






(The LEDs in one of them):





There's more at my "MC-E Madness" link in my signature.


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## wquiles (May 2, 2009)

Techjunkie said:


> Each MC-E is wired 2p2s and then all three are wired in paralllel. The IMRs don't sag at all under this load, so I had to add about a quarter of an ohm of resistance with my "IMR resistance module":
> 
> (The LEDs in one of them):
> 
> There's more at my "MC-E Madness" link in my signature.



Cool - thanks. I also have a 3x MC-E project in the works, and also want to use two of these IMR cells, so this helps a lot. Did you measure how much current was going to the 3x MC-E's prior to adding the resistance?

Will


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## Seiko (May 2, 2009)

Got my batteries today
One battery is 1.031
The other 1.037

I own 4 2C mags, even with sanding the batteries down the one that started at 1.037 wont fit in any of them. So now I will have to hone out the inside of the mag I intend to use it in.

Should have just taken $30 and lit it on fire. Then kept using 18650's

I love the other AW batteries I have (about 30 of them) But these were rather disappointing.


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## Techjunkie (May 2, 2009)

wquiles said:


> Cool - thanks. I also have a 3x MC-E project in the works, and also want to use two of these IMR cells, so this helps a lot. Did you measure how much current was going to the 3x MC-E's prior to adding the resistance?
> 
> Will


 
Yes, I did - it was WAY too much, like over 6 or 7 amps (12 MC-E dies as 6p2S should pull 4.2A on spec). LEDs were turning blue. The voltage just wasn't sagging at all, and that was with 2x IMR 18650. I hadn't even gotten the 26500 yet. Now with the resistance module I made, I measure ~4.6A pull at the tail cap on fully charged batteries. Perfect.


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## ElectronGuru (May 2, 2009)

Seiko said:


> I own 4 2C mags, even with sanding the batteries down the one that started at 1.037 wont fit in any of them. So now I will have to hone out the inside of the mag I intend to use it in.



May I ask how far you sanded, did the top 'ring' fall off?

I happen to have high powered magnets, with power enhancing cups. I mounted one to the handle of a screw driver to help with cell removal. Its strong enough to pull out even the cells that are not yet sanded and its the perfect size for a C tube. You are welcome to a kit for the cost of shipping. Just send me a PM (anyone else too).

Bulb Update:
1166 on 3x 26500 = no poof!
ROP High 3853 on 2x 26500 = no poof!


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## wquiles (May 2, 2009)

Techjunkie said:


> Yes, I did - it was WAY too much, like over 6 or 7 amps (12 MC-E dies as 6p2S should pull 4.2A on spec). LEDs were turning blue. The voltage just wasn't sagging at all, and that was with 2x IMR 18650. I hadn't even gotten the 26500 yet. Now with the resistance module I made, I measure ~4.6A pull at the tail cap on fully charged batteries. Perfect.



Thanks again, this helps a LOT 

Will


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## GLOCK18 (May 2, 2009)

Received my IMR26500 today, first light to try FM85 3C they don't fit, I have 6 other lights with Sleeves to fit a AW C Lio-ion 3300 protected cell, the IMR26500 don't fit any of the sleeves.


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## LuxLuthor (May 3, 2009)

We have run into this problem years ago trying to use A123 &/or Emoli in 26700 sizes and not fitting in C Mag. If you try to cover them in 1 mil thick Kapton tape with no overlaps, you can just get them in, but I was never comfortable with this knowing how metals and batteries contract and expand. Plus, if there is any minor label cracking, splitting, or scrape (especially after sanding down label) as you slide them in and out, you can have a dead short to the mag tube.

Given that we knew about this from those cells, it is surprising that AW used the same diameter...but likely was because of this established convention with previous size standards & wider existing tool battery pack market. 

I doubt a few hundred Mag C flashlight users was enough motivation to have Chinese factories make new dies to fit such a small niche. 

Personally, I would highly recommend that people bite the bullet and send their C bodies to one of the members willing to bore them out for a good price...so you have some decent clearance and don't have to compromise battery insulation protection. Maybe one of the guys with mills can post a standard rate to bore them out. I have about 10-12 various lengths C Mags I would like to send to someone to bore out.

I did the brake hone on two D mags, using a portable drill and running it under slow trickle of water to wash away metal, prevent dust, and keep cool. It got pretty old, even using the coarse grit sandpaper wrapped around stones. I decided to send the rest of my D mags that needed bore grooves instead to FM.

For those willing to move up to a MagD, a 1" PVC pipe, clamshelled will hold all these 26mm diameter cells, and AlanB's regulator if you can afford it will allow using bulbs like the 5761 at maximum overdrive without flashing.


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## Wattnot (May 3, 2009)

LuxLuthor said:


> I doubt a few hundred Mag C flashlight users was enough motivation to have Chinese factories make new dies to fit such a small niche.


 
I don't have much to back this up but I feel everyone should hang tight for a while. We are not the only users of these cells. It is very possible our industrial counterparts are having similar problems. AW is NOT offering any specific hope but at the same time has also not completely abandoned bringing back our known and loved black label, perfect sized lion C. The fact that many of us are having problems with the IMRs puts at least some pressure on getting the old ones back. If everyone solves the problem by boring C lights or switching to D lights and sleeves then even the niche market will be gone and the final nails will have been driven.

Perhaps a thread or poll showing how many would be ordered should they come back would help those quietly watching this. I'll start: I bought 2 just before they ran dry and I would buy 2 more if I could get them.


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## cmacclel (May 3, 2009)

I just posted a boring service thread here

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2941420#post2941420

Thanks Mac


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## Al Combs (May 3, 2009)

I don't know if this will help explain the SNAFU or not. A while back I saw a post that made me search for what is the size of a C cell. It had nothing to do with this. I tried WikiPedia, Duracell and Energizer. It was the 2 big battery companies that finally helped with their, "Industry Standards IEC/ANSI Dimensions". They both list a *range *of sizes that go from 26.2mm to 24.9mm. I only included the Wiki link because it agreed with Duracell and Energizer max dimensions. I found several sizes in my search, all of them different, including different WikiPedia links.

I'm guessing when MagLite sat down to make a flashlight they measured several available batteries. The guys AW contracted to make his IMR's did the same thing I did. They looked on the Web to find out how big a C cell is. The 26.2mm figure is the same as AW's listed spec. That must have been passed onto the battery manufacturer with a ± tolerance instead of a max figure.


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## LuxLuthor (May 4, 2009)

Personally, I'll take Mac up on his generous offer. 

AW has posted several times that these are hard economic times for Chinese factories, with many of them closing down never to return. One of the factories closed and took his C Li-Ion design spec with them. Those remaining are not taking any risks, and going for the mainstream demand. Doing an IMR that is 1mm narrower than the 26700 standard width would likely not be considered for less than 50,000-100,000 units.

24-25mm diameter Li-Mn consumers are not going to be largely used since the cells have no protection, and are relatively easy to ruin by running voltage down with direct drive. The demand is already set by the tool companies who use them in larger 26700 size and add protection PCB to packs.

Mac, PM sent.


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## greenpea76 (May 4, 2009)

wquiles said:


> Do you remember how much metal were you boring off with the lathe? How many 0.001's were you taking off?
> 
> Will


 


greenpea76 said:


> No, I don't remember how much exactly. Sorry. It really is thin in that area and I didn't pay attention to the original thickness so I am quite embarrassed. I threaded the tailcap and the threaded section came right off.


 
OK, so I looked into this and compared my FM 2C to the amount I removed from the ruined FM 1C body. There is a difference of .026" or .66mm between the two after the boring of the 1C body. I don't know how consistent the I.D. of these bodies are, so that is about a rough figure for the FM tubes. The cells fit with a pretty airtight seal with the original red shrink wrap in the FM 1C.


----------



## LIGHTSMAD (May 7, 2009)

how am i gaining by using these IMR26500's 2300mah in my MAG 2C instead of using AW18650's which are almost the same mah 2200mah each?


----------



## Benson (May 7, 2009)

LIGHTSMAD said:


> how am i gaining by using these IMR26500's 2300mah in my MAG 2C instead of using AW18650's which are almost the same mah 2200mah each?



100mAh more
Higher current capability
They won't blow up, even if you abuse them.

Of course, if you are only after more capacity, there are "better" options in 18650 and 25500 sizes -- whether any of them actually turn out to be better for you obviously depends on stuff.


----------



## LuxLuthor (May 7, 2009)

LIGHTSMAD said:


> how am i gaining by using these IMR26500's 2300mah in my MAG 2C instead of using AW18650's which are almost the same mah 2200mah each?



As Benson says, there are tradeoffs. It's not all about total mAh capacity. Many bulbs need more amps than the AW protection PCB will allow, and it results in breaking the circuit.


----------



## vestureofblood (May 8, 2009)

*Re: IMR26500 Fitment*



Bones said:


> To make the job go a little quicker, Sears has this 21.4 to 50.8mm cylinder hone on sale for 3.97:
> 
> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904656000P
> .


 
That's a smart idea. I have considered doing some of my own boring, but had not come up with an idea that seemed like it would do a neat enough job (with the tools I have or can afford), but that may be the trick.


----------



## LIGHTSMAD (May 8, 2009)

LuxLuthor said:


> As Benson says, there are tradeoffs. It's not all about total mAh capacity. Many bulbs need more amps than the AW protection PCB will allow, and it results in breaking the circuit.


 
i will be mainly using them for powering WA1160 WA1185 & 5761 bulbs......would the AW's be fine for these or will i be better off going with IMR's?


----------



## LuxLuthor (May 8, 2009)

LIGHTSMAD said:


> i will be mainly using them for powering WA1160 WA1185 & 5761 bulbs......would the AW's be fine for these or will i be better off going with IMR's?



All fine, except the 5761 which pulls 5.5-5.6 Amps which is just above AW's amp cutoff on his protected PCB used in 18650 (& other models) Li-Ion.


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## LIGHTSMAD (May 8, 2009)

LuxLuthor said:


> All fine, except the 5761 which pulls 5.5-5.6 Amps which is just above AW's amp cutoff on his protected PCB used in 18650 (& other models) Li-Ion.


 

so im going to send my MAG 2C 5761 to get bored my mac and use IMR's in it!

then 2XAW18650's in my MAG 2C WA1160 by using FM's PVC!

problem solved!

thanks lux!


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## Kestrel (May 8, 2009)

LIGHTSMAD said:


> thanks lux cause i can get my MAG 2C 5761 bored out for the IMR's and use AW's in my MAG 2C WA1160 by using FM's PVC for the use of the AW18650's!


Dude, that is the best English sentence that I've read today.:thumbsup: 100% comprehensible to Flashaholics, 100% incomprehensible to non-CPF-ers.


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## LIGHTSMAD (May 10, 2009)

Kestrel said:


> Dude, that is the best English sentence that I've read today.:thumbsup: 100% comprehensible to Flashaholics, 100% incomprehensible to non-CPF-ers.


 
reading back on that now is quite funny

i was only back from a stags a few hours when i wrote that!

maybe i didn't recover fully!


----------



## LIGHTSMAD (May 10, 2009)

just edited post #83


crazy talk


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## LIGHTSMAD (May 11, 2009)

im thinking of using 2XIMR26500's im my bored FM 2C body, powering a WA1160.....will these batterys be to much for this bulb or will it be ok?


----------



## gswitter (May 11, 2009)

If an 1111 can't handle 2x IMR26500s, an 1160 doesn't stand a chance.


----------



## DHart (May 11, 2009)

LIGHTSMAD said:


> im thinking of using 2XIMR26500's im my bored FM 2C body, powering a WA1160.....will these batterys be to much for this bulb or will it be ok?



Does the two "C" Fivemega body take well to boring? Not too thin?

I've got a new Fivemega two "C" body and nothing to power it reasonably with but two new IMR "C"s that are on the way from Lighthound... now I'm wondering if I should just try to return the cells when they arrive...


----------



## wquiles (May 11, 2009)

DHart said:


> Does the two "C" Fivemega body take well to boring? Not too thin?


You are taking a "very" small amount. No worries whatsoever 

Will


----------



## LIGHTSMAD (May 12, 2009)

DHart said:


> Does the two "C" Fivemega body take well to boring? Not too thin?
> 
> I've got a new Fivemega two "C" body and nothing to power it reasonably with but two new IMR "C"s that are on the way from Lighthound... now I'm wondering if I should just try to return the cells when they arrive...


 
which bulb are you thinking of using with 2xIMR26500's?


----------



## DHart (May 12, 2009)

LIGHTSMAD said:


> which bulb are you thinking of using with 2xIMR26500's?



Dereelight MC-E lamp. It's a 3-stage light which runs on two Li-Ions (7.4v-8.4v).


----------



## DHart (May 12, 2009)

wquiles said:


> You are taking a "very" small amount. No worries whatsoever
> 
> Will



Is the amount of removal (opening up a FM two "C" tube for IMR 26500s) slight enough that I could do it by hand with sandpaper?


----------



## wquiles (May 12, 2009)

DHart said:


> Is the amount of removal (opening up a FM two "C" tube for IMR 26500s) slight enough that I could do it by hand with sandpaper?



Potentially yes, but it would depend on:
- technique/tools use - you want to remove material fairly uniformly all around
- how much material that particular host needs removed (as you can see in this thread some hosts need more work than others, plus there is some cell-to-cell variability as well), and 
- anodyzing type: The standard anodizing for a Mag is relatively very soft and sandpaper would work, but if the tube is HAIII in the inside, then NO, you probably can't do it by hand with sandpaper (it would take far too long by hand).

EDIT: Some folks with the FM "C" tubes have posted that there is not enough metal to do inside boring 

Will


----------



## Techjunkie (May 13, 2009)

On sort-of the same topic as the complications with boring FM C bodies due to their thinness... what's the general consensus on custom grooving the outside of a Mag body that has had some serious boring/milling/honing done inside? How thin does the wall of the Mag get where the groove on the outside crosses the battery channel on the inside? Has anyone ever perforated or bent or severed their Mag body due to complication from this? I'm asking because there's a lot of slick custom grooved (and custom plated) Mag C's out there that I'd hate to see suffer untimely demise from boring for IMR C fitment.


----------



## LIGHTSMAD (May 16, 2009)

LuxLuthor said:


> All fine, except the 5761 which pulls 5.5-5.6 Amps which is just above AW's amp cutoff on his protected PCB used in 18650 (& other models) Li-Ion.


 
i have tryed 2X AW18650's in my 2C MAG with the 5761 bulb and it works fine.....have not done a runtime test yet....but im sure it wont be much!


----------



## DM51 (May 16, 2009)

LIGHTSMAD said:


> i have tryed 2X AW18650's in my 2C MAG with the 5761 bulb and it works fine.....have not done a runtime test yet....but im sure it wont be much!


You will driving your 18650s very hard indeed with a 5761. The bulb pulls ~5.5A, which is 2.5C for AW 18650s. If you only run it in short bursts the cells will tolerate that, but it's really not good for them, and not recommended.


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## LIGHTSMAD (May 16, 2009)

DM51 said:


> You will driving your 18650s very hard indeed with a 5761. The bulb pulls ~5.5A, which is 2.5C for AW 18650s. If you only run it in short bursts the cells will tolerate that, but it's really not good for them, and not recommended.


 
i have 2 only AW C cells....i would like to keep them as long as possible, i know its best to leave them resting at about 3.9V but how long can i leave them in that state: 6mts-8mts or is there a limit or would it be best to give them a charge every now and then?

i have a 2C MAG with a WA1160 bulb...can i use 2XAW18650's or do i need to go C size for that setup too?


----------



## LIGHTSMAD (May 18, 2009)

LIGHTSMAD said:


> i have 2 only AW C cells....i would like to keep them as long as possible, i know its best to leave them resting at about 3.9V but how long can i leave them in that state: 6mts-8mts or is there a limit or would it be best to give them a charge every now and then?
> 
> i have a 2C MAG with a WA1160 bulb...can i use 2XAW18650's or do i need to go C size for that setup too?


 

i know this is goin off topic a bit but it would sort me if i knew the ans to these two Q's


----------



## Tirodani (May 18, 2009)

LIGHTSMAD said:


> i have 2 only AW C cells....i would like to keep them as long as possible, i know its best to leave them resting at about 3.9V but how long can i leave them in that state: 6mts-8mts or is there a limit or would it be best to give them a charge every now and then?
> 
> i have a 2C MAG with a WA1160 bulb...can i use 2XAW18650's or do i need to go C size for that setup too?



Re: storage, Wikipedia recommends 40% charge and refrigeration for storage.

Re: WA1160, it pulls a little over 4 amps at 7.2v, so 18650's should be fine though you are using most of their power capability. The Destructive Incan Bulb Tests thread has this kind of information for a lot of bulbs.


----------



## Swagg (Jun 9, 2009)

What about the BigLEEF C system? I have one waiting to fit these batteries, will boring the LEEF tubes damage them in any way? It seems like these are pretty thick and I've also noticed that there is anodizing in there...If you guys think it can be done I have a friend that can do the work and I can post the results but I want to make sure that I don't ruin the LEEF tubes.

Also, will 3 of these blow the 11 volt axial bulb that FiveMega sells?


----------



## Techjunkie (Jun 17, 2009)

Back to the fitment topic...

A year or two ago, I used a 35mm hole saw (cup saw) to bore out a 4D mag to fit 4AA across, by installing the bit backwards at the end of a long extension bit and pulling it through the torch with the hand drill in reverse. It was a hell of a lot faster than the brake hone, and very effective, but the result was admittedly a bit unsightly before I went over it with a brake hone wrapped in sandpaper.

Having explained that, just so you know the kinds of shortcuts that I'm willing to take to save time, what's your take on doing something similar to a few Mag 3C's with a 1.0469" drill bit like this one? Unable to reverse the bit and pull it through the tube, I'll have to push it through. Has anyone done this before with a hand drill? Is this plausible? (Is the size OK? Is there a cheaper source for the bit?)


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## ElectronGuru (Jun 17, 2009)

How about an adjustable reamer?:

http://www.abmtools.com/Cutting_Tools/Adjustable_Hand_Reamer.htm


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## bigchelis (Jun 18, 2009)

I have a 4C Mag and in stock trim the IMR C cells fit with room to spare.


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## lctorana (Jun 18, 2009)

How old is it?


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## bigchelis (Jun 19, 2009)

lctorana said:


> How old is it?


 

Im not sure, but I got it from MrGman with a Malkoff Tripple already on it. I use 4 C NiMH cells for the tripple, but when I checked to see if the IMR C cell would fit, it sure does. I could even hear it rattle a bit if I shake it left/right.:twothumbs


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## Techjunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

Is it anodized (black) on the inside, or is it bare? (Or has it been completely reanodized?)



bigchelis said:


> Im not sure, but I got it from MrGman with a Malkoff Tripple already on it. I use 4 C NiMH cells for the tripple, but when I checked to see if the IMR C cell would fit, it sure does. I could even hear it rattle a bit if I shake it left/right.:twothumbs


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## Chodes (Jun 20, 2009)

I've scanned this thread - can't see any mention of Big Leef.
Really curious to know if IMR26500 fit the Leef C system for AW C 3300maH or would the longer Leef C tubes for Emoli/A123 be required?

(edit - just emailed Lighthound asking about this)

I prefer the look of the knurled C tubes over the Emoli/A123 tubes. 

Also wondering about lctorans's question - what about heat and expansion?
I'd imagine for high current draw the cells would get hotter faster while the body would take longer to heat up , so if the cells are a tight fit , could this be dangerous?


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## DM51 (Jun 20, 2009)

Chodes said:


> I've scanned this thread - can't see any mention of Big Leef.
> Really curious to know if IMR26500 fit the Leef C system for AW C 3300maH or would the longer Leef C tubes for Emoli/A123 be required?


The knurled C-size BigLeef tubes are fractionally too small for the IMR26500s, but your question has just prompted me to measure the longer A123 (tear-drop pattern) tubes. 

Good news!  These have a larger ID, and the IMR26500 fits in just fine.

The measurements are:
AW IMR26500 cell: 26.1 mm
BigLeef C tube: 25.8 mm
BigLeef A123 tube: 26.6 mm


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## Chodes (Jun 20, 2009)

Thanks. 
It looks as though IMRs are really a standard diameter that A123 and Emoli also use. I'm just glad they're only 500 long - 3 cells will just fit in a 2D , 4 Cells easily fit in a 3D and with Alan B or JimmyM regulators lots of possibilities 
Now I'd like some IMR 32500s  3300mah?


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## bigchelis (Jun 20, 2009)

Techjunkie said:


> Is it anodized (black) on the inside, or is it bare? (Or has it been completely reanodized?)


 

The 4C has the tail cap black (inside). It might be an older version, but the Malkoff Tripple Q5 still fits perfectly.


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## zelda (Jun 20, 2009)

ElectronGuru said:


> How about an adjustable reamer?:
> 
> http://www.abmtools.com/Cutting_Tools/Adjustable_Hand_Reamer.htm



A reamer is too expensive but a brake hone could fit in the budget. 
In switzerland and other countrys in europe, both tools are too expensive "to modify 1 -5 flashlights"

It would be nice if AW could sell brake hone.


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## gswitter (Jun 20, 2009)

DM51 said:


> The measurements are:
> AW IMR26500 cell: 26.1 mm
> BigLeef C tube: 25.8 mm
> BigLeef A123 tube: 26.6 mm


I don't have an IMR26500 to test fit, and I'm not 100% confident in my digital caliper (cheap POS), but I measure the ID of the TnC C-Flex tubes at ~26.15 mm.


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## donn_ (Jun 20, 2009)

gswitter said:


> I don't have an IMR26500 to test fit, and I'm not 100% confident in my digital caliper (cheap POS), but I measure the ID of the TnC C-Flex tubes at ~26.15 mm.



I just tried the AW IMR-C in the TnC C-Flex tube.

It doesn't fit.


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## Swagg (Jun 22, 2009)

DM51 said:


> The knurled C-size BigLeef tubes are fractionally too small for the IMR26500s, but your question has just prompted me to measure the longer A123 (tear-drop pattern) tubes.
> 
> Good news!  These have a larger ID, and the IMR26500 fits in just fine.
> 
> ...




I have the BigLeef C system and of course it didn't fit. I had it bored and it fits great now with no problems. Man when you get these batteries into this set up it is a quite heavy and solid light, I like it!


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## HarryN (Jul 25, 2009)

Hi, I was curious if these cells would fit in any of the streamlight C bodies?

Thanks

HarryN


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## gra123 (Nov 12, 2009)

Hi Just finished moding a mag 4c to accept AW IMR 26500 cells.I can recommend using a expanding reamer (if you have access to one, a bit pricey)It realy makes the job so easy no need for machines and it gives a perfect finish. Just remove the AW sticker and remember that the positive end of the cell is slightly larger in diameter.


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## naked2 (Jan 17, 2010)

O.K. I've just read this entire thread and still don't see my answer. So here's my question: 

Has *anyone* following this thread had any luck boring/honing/sanding an FM 1C or 2C body with good results? :thinking:

Thanks, Tony


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## ElectronGuru (Jan 18, 2010)

naked2 said:


> Anyone had any luck boring/honing/sanding an FM 1C or 2C body with good results?



Several have gone after this quest and in each case, it was easier to sell the body they had and replace it with the new FM bodies made for the newer cells:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/235414


The last few weeks, 1x26500's became hard to get, but 2x26500's are still around (I, for example, have extras).


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## naked2 (Jan 18, 2010)

ElectronGuru said:


> ...replace it with the new FM bodies made for the newer cells...


I know of the new bodies, but am not interested in them (especially at $75 and $68 for the 2x26500 and 1x 26500 with McClickie installed, compared to $47 and $45 for the 2C and 1C with _included_ StreamLight switch). I'm currently using DX unprotected 25500s in my FM C bodies; the 2C with a SF KT and LF IMR-M3T LA, and the 1C with a DX 11074 module. At 3.25A and 1.25A respectively, the DX cells work fine; but I wanted to buy a nailbender SST-50 module for the 1C. 

The DX cells would also work fine with his 2.8A regulated version, which IMO is nowhere near the SST-50's potential though; so at $70, I'll pass. I'd be willing to pay $65 for his direct-drive version, but I think it would kill the DX cells. So if I can't successfully modify my 1C body, an IMR 26500 cell, or both, I'll pass on the DD version as well. Probably the best I can do (with the current cell/LED technology available that will fit the stock 1C body) is something P7 or MC-E; I need to re-look at nailbender's modules.



ElectronGuru said:


> Several have gone after this quest...
> ...it was easier to sell the body they had...


But, that still doesn't _really_ answer my question (no disrespect intended), so again, has *anyone* following this thread had any luck boring/honing/sanding an FM 1C or 2C body with good results? :thinking:


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## naked2 (Feb 2, 2010)




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