# My pimped-out Nuwai Quantum-III



## milkyspit (Nov 11, 2004)

Hey everybody! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Like so many fellow CPFers, I bought a Nuwai Quantum-III 1x123 light a while back, and while I thought it was a neat little light, I also found some things not to my liking... so naturally I began modding, heh heh... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Introducing... my pimped-out Nuwai Quantum-III! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif







Okay, well it looks pretty much the same as the UNMODDED Q-III. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

In the interest of offering one example of what can be done with these things, here's a quick rundown of what I did, and why...

1. Replaced the stock LuxIII star with an SY0J binned star, which runs at lower voltage than stock and comes closer to a pure white color. (The original star had a distinctly blue tint.)

2. Replaced the stock boost circuit with a modified board pulled from a Dorcy 1AAA LED light, available for $5.94 at any WalMart. I've been using these boards quite a bit lately, both because of the low price and the easy availability. It does entail a little more labor to prep the board for use, though. Anyway, the board performs more-or-less like a MadMax, or perhaps MMLite and greatly increases the runtime of my Q-III over the stock board, plus fails MUCH more gracefully than the stock board did, with hours upon hours of lingering light that's bright enough to navigate around my house and find stuff in drawers. That's after 120 minutes of basically flat output, followed by 30 minutes of gradual dimming to the low output mode. Here's a runtime chart I did for my MilkMite mod, which uses the same circuit...






3. Removed the switch from inside the tailcap, and inserted an O-ring to recess the rubber boot just enough for the light to stand upright.

4. While the tailswitch was opened, I replaced the switch board itself with a dual brightness one from another Nuwai light, and replaced the resistance for the low beam with a 10 ohm resistor.

5. Added a stainless steel split ring from Berkeley Point, to facilitate easy lanyard carry. If you look closely at the photo, you'll notice something unusual about the split ring: one of the turns is missing around roughly half the circumference of the split ring. I snipped it off! This was because the stock split ring was a little too thick for the attachment point on the clip. After snipping some of the split ring off, it now moves more-or-less freely up and down at the attachment point, and doesn't seem to lose all that much strength... certainly not enough to cause it to fail under the small amount of weight of this particular flashlight!

The upshot of all this is a nice little light that can stand upright, attach to a lanyard, run for 2 hours at high brightness and STILL provide many hours of emergency light, and provide two levels of output: I measured the low output at 83 lux at one meter, and the high level output at 593 lux at one meter. That works well for me! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The point is, many mods are possible with this light. IMHO it's a great platform for modders! Yippee!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/party.gif


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## Mark2 (Nov 11, 2004)

Very nice! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif Didn't know the Dorcy boards were that useful...


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## CroMAGnet (Nov 11, 2004)

Very nice!! Can we get?? (fully completed?)


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## milkyspit (Nov 11, 2004)

Cromag, sure you can get one fully modded! The price will depend on whether you're supplying the stock light, or I'm buying one on your behalf, then modding it. I generally charge $20-30 for the labor, plus parts cost and other expenses. PM me if interested! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## hotbeam (Nov 11, 2004)

Nice mod Milky!


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## milkyspit (Nov 11, 2004)

Why thank you, Mr. Hotster! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Your blessing pretty much officially endorses my mod. Now all I need is certification from the great MR Bulk to seal the deal! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif


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## Neg2LED (Nov 11, 2004)

Milky:

PM Sent

neg


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## PEU (Nov 11, 2004)

how do you open the q3 ? I received mine last week, and cannot figure it out!


Pablo


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## Haesslich (Nov 11, 2004)

Sweet. How much does the tint change, with the Y0? I'm thiking about a PM...


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## milkyspit (Nov 11, 2004)

Neg, PM replied. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Pablo, the head unscrews at the point where the knurling stops, on the side closest to the clip... look closely and you'll see a seam there. It's Loktited shut, but you can break the seal with a couple pairs or pliers. However, make sure you protect the light itself with some rubber hose or something similar, so you don't end up with plier marks on the housing! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

Haesslich, the stock Q3 circuit and also the Dorcy circuit will both tend to shift the tint in the "warmer" direction, away from blue and toward green. Maybe the Dorcy circuit does so just a bit more, but it happens with both. Since Y0 is slightly on the blue side of white, this downshift moves the tint CLOSER to pure white. Hope that helps.


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## flashlight (Nov 12, 2004)

With the 2-stage switch is it still a clicky? Guessing that it's a click on High (or low) & click again for Low (or high). Pls. PM me a break down cost for a complete modded light. Thanks. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## milkyspit (Nov 12, 2004)

Flashlight, the replacement clicky has three states: off, low, high. Put another way, when the light is off, click for low, click again for high, and click a third time to turn off.

Sending PM in a moment... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## flashlight (Nov 12, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
*milkyspit said:*
Flashlight, the replacement clicky has three states: off, low, high. Put another way, when the light is off, click for low, click again for high, and click a third time to turn off.

Sending PM in a moment... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif 

[/ QUOTE ]

Got it, thanks Scott. OK now don't forget to spend some time with the baby though. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif Up for a great mod. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif


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## LED_experimenter (Nov 14, 2004)

Hi Scott

I decided to take the plunge. My FIRST post!

Do you think a 5Watt Luxeon would go in without it burning up? Perhaps not sufficient room for dissipating the heat properly?

Also, can you describe any of the identifying numbers on the little driver chip inside the Nuwai 3Watt?

The one I have has a circuit board with a part number of C300-AL5W, is that the same number you have?

Thanks for your input.

Ed


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## milkyspit (Nov 14, 2004)

Hey! Welcome, LED_experimenter! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I'm not sure a 5W Luxeon could be driven by the stock circuit. It might work underdriven, meaning it would be nowhere near the proper brightness, but probably that's about it. For the same reason, I don't think heat will be an issue.

I believe the primary chip on the board is a Zetex ZXSC300. It's a regulator, sort of, but in the configuration used runs more like it's in partial regulation, meaning it won't maintain constant brightness but will keep the light fairly bright for a while, before output drops dramatically when the battery is nearly depleted.

Yes, that's the same code as I've got on the stock circuit board. I think the C300 part refers to the ZXSC300 regulator, and suspect that the AL5W part means this board was originally designed to drive a 5W emitter off TWO 123 cells. That said, it's just a theory, as I haven't tried it yet. But if you're prone to experimenting, try it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif Put a replacement circuit in the QIII, such as the Dorcy circuit I used, and perhaps try running the C300-AL5W board to drive a 5W emitter (properly heatsinked of course) with 2x123 cells.

Good luck with your pimpin'! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif


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## CroMAGnet (Nov 15, 2004)

Hi Milky. PM sent last week. Awaiting deatils /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## milkyspit (Nov 15, 2004)

Cromag, I replied to your PM last week as well. Not sure why you didn't notice it... or maybe for some reason you didn't receive it at all?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

I'll cut-n-paste that reply plus add a bit of new info, and send you another PM in the next 10 minutes. Watch for it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## LED_experimenter (Nov 15, 2004)

Hi Scott (or, is it Milkyspit?)

I tried that quick change, but it didn't put out much more light or current. I believe I need to change the smd resistor value. The resistor number is R050. I am not sure if that is 0.50 ohms or .050 ohms? I never worked with such small values before. As near as I can figure, I should reduce that resistor to 1/2 the present value. On the boards you are removing, is there a different number on the smd resistor?

Does any of that make sense to you? Do you have a recommendation for the smd resistor? I know you prefer the board from the Dorcy 1AAA, but I have a frugal streak in me (I hate to waste things), so I am trying to make the original circuit board work. 

Do you think I am trying too hard to preform a miracle, by saving that board?

I know, I ask a lot of questions! (HEY, where is the spell checker /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif)

OK, that's it for now. I don't want to over extend my welcome, since I am only a 'newbie' here!

Thanks
Ed


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## milkyspit (Nov 15, 2004)

LED_experimenter, you can call me Milkyspit, Milky, or Scott... they're all fine by me! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

If memory serves, my resistor was either R050 or R020. I don't think changing the value will help you much, because on this board the resistor doesn't set the output current by itself, it only sets the PEAK output current. In other words, if everything went perfectly and your battery were able to deliver all the power in the world, your emitter would run at 950mA using that stock resistor. (I had calculated the value based on the Zetex datasheet for their chip.) However, in any less than ideal situation, which is definitely the case with a single 123 cell being asked to deliver massive amounts of juice on a continuous basis, the chip will begin sending PULSES to the emitter. Each pulse may well be 950mA, but because it's not continuous output, it has the effect of making the LED look dimmer to the eye. For my Q3, the output was comparable to other lights I've got running in the 350mA-500mA range. It seems that the battery itself is the limiting factor in this light, so reducing the resistor probably won't do a whole lot for you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Regarding the Dorcy 1AAA, it's $5.94 at WalMart, man! Think of the amount of time you'll spend tinkering with the stock circuit, probably fruitlessly, when for less than $6 you could just pop in a different circuit that you know is going to work. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

BTW, I didn't waste those Q3 boards, just haven't told you what I did with them yet, heh heh. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif


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## absoLite (Nov 17, 2004)

Scott,

very interesting light you did /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif

I have some questions about it:

Does it have more throw than the original QIII, or does it have more sidespill, or perhaps both ? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Would the 2-stage switch also be possible with an original QIII, and if yes, would you sell one and for what price ?


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## milkyspit (Nov 17, 2004)

Absolite, thanks for the compliment on my pimpin'. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Okay, let's see... it's the same reflector in both cases, so sidespill is identical in diameter, but throw with the Dorcy circuit is maybe 20% less than with stock. (That still leaves plenty of throw, though!) The main reason for the Dorcy circuit was twofold: it runs for at least TWICE as long as the stock circuit; and it fails far more gracefully. On the latter point, I did a runtime test on my MilkMite mod, which also uses the Dorcy circuit, and even after 8 HOURS of continuous runtime on a single 123 cell, there was enough light to navigate the rooms of my house and find things in drawers. Simply put, I just trust the Dorcy circuit far more than I do the stock circuit not to let me down when I need it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Yes, the dual brightness switch could be installed in the stock OR pimped Q3, but you'll need to be comfortable soldering and unsoldering things on circuit boards. If not, you could always send it to me for modding... I'd probably only need the tailcap, not the entire light. The stock switch sits on a little circuit board in the tailcap, and basically you'd need to desolder and remove that one, then solder down the new one, and finally run a resistor from one of the outputs of the new switch to the output pad on the little circuit board.

I haven't received the switches yet, so it's a little premature to put a price on them... but I'm sure it'll be under $10 shipped! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif Okay, maybe that doesn't say much, but the point is it won't be a backbreaker for anyone. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## absoLite (Nov 18, 2004)

Thanks alot for your answers, and I would like to take such a switch when it's available.
Soldering should be no problem for me (at least I'll try) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## Anglepoise (Nov 18, 2004)

Milky.
When you had your Q-III apart, did you by any chance happen to measure the diameter of the lens??


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## milkyspit (Nov 18, 2004)

Nope, sorry about that, Anglepoise. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif I didn't remove the reflector and didn't even think about swapping out the lens, so I never bothered to measure it, either. But roughly speaking, I'd guess the reflector itself is 20mm in diameter, so the lens must be something slightly larger, like maybe 22mm, or just a fraction larger than that? Just a guess!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif


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## AW (Nov 19, 2004)

I would like to have the new switch when you have it. Probably, I would like the output to be half of the high. Also, my QIII is running much brigher on R123 than CR123, would it damage the LS because I believe the regulation circuit is not very efficient with the QIII.


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## red_robby (Nov 19, 2004)

i changed my lens with a mineral lens from the sandwich shop
the 22.5mm fit...


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## milkyspit (Nov 19, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
*AW said:*
I would like to have the new switch when you have it. Probably, I would like the output to be half of the high. Also, my QIII is running much brigher on R123 than CR123, would it damage the LS because I believe the regulation circuit is not very efficient with the QIII. 

[/ QUOTE ]

AW, I don't own any R123 cells myself, but it sounds like you're bypassing the circuit completely on those and driving the LS as if it's a direct drive light... in other words, as if you had wired the battery directly to the LS with no circuitry in between. The reason it looks much brighter on those cells is that MUCH more current is flowing through the LS! If memory serves, an R123 will put out something like 4.2V when it's fresh.

Direct drive lights aren't necessarily bad. 4sevens has designed several nice ones, so has roguesoul, so have I and many others... then there's the godfather of all direct drivers, the great MR Bulk himself, who built a number of CPF classics (like the Space Needle II) on the principle of direct drive! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

There are two possible problems, though. First problem would be that you fry your LS. If your light is generating lots of heat, or you can measure more than 1 amp of current coming from the battery (you can test this with a DMM, or digital multimeter, by removing the tailcap, touching one lead to the battery, and the other to some exposed aluminum on the barrel of the light), you might have a potential problem.

I'd bet, though, that the LS won't be your main concern. The second problem is that you may end up frying one or more components in the QIII's boost circuit, which would mean your light either would no longer work properly with regular 123 cells, or in the worst case, wouldn't work at all! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

Well, I'm already on record here on CPF as pretty much hating that circuit, so to me that would be no great loss. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif And rechargeables are of course a great idea. Just be careful, dude! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

If you end up toasting your light, send it over and we'll pimp 'er up! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif


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## AW (Nov 19, 2004)

It says here Q-III are passed for those R123s:
http://www.justbright.com/cells.htm
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif


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## Haesslich (Nov 19, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
*AW said:*
It says here Q-III are passed for those R123s:
http://www.justbright.com/cells.htm
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif 

[/ QUOTE ]

Eh, it's cheap enough that toasting the circuit board won't matter much, especially since a cheap $5 Dorcy has a good replacement board in it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif And you could get Scott there to pimp up the switch and the LED for you, so you would a) know the LED was rated for the 4.2-3.7V of the rechargables, and b) not have to worry about overdischarging cells.

Still, it's not a bad light for $40, is it?


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## AW (Nov 19, 2004)

I would say $48 is a good deal considering my Q-III is brighter than my ARC4+ (rev2) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif


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## Haesslich (Nov 19, 2004)

Aye. I love the death out of it, even if I use my Aleph 3 more these days, due to the two-stage switch.


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## AW (Nov 21, 2004)

Milkyspit,
I measure the current draw of my QIII with the R123 and it is a whopping 1.25A while on a CR123A is only 0.85A. However, not much heat was generated and the runtime was a nonstop 30 minutes with full regulation brightness. Will the R123 damage my LS running a current that high?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/au.gif


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## milkyspit (Nov 21, 2004)

AW, something sounds a little strange. At 1.25A, I would have guessed SOMETHING ought to get pretty warm... but you might need to leave the light sitting upright for a few minutes or something. Held in your hand, the heat may be transferred to your hand before it gets much chance to heat up the light's housing.

It does sound like the circuit is being bypassed with the R123. That makes sense because the circuit is designed for boost, but no boost is needed at the higher voltage the R123 supplies.

The one other possibility might be that the heatsinking in the light is really bad. I think 4sevens was replacing the stock heatsink when he was converting his QIII to direct drive... maybe he's got some thoughts on all this?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif


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## Mr_Dead (Nov 21, 2004)

I don't suppose the 2-stage switch mod changes the action so that it connects on the "down" stroke, making momentary possible? Probably wishing for too much...


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## milkyspit (Nov 21, 2004)

The two stage switch works in same the reverse tactical style as the stock switch, unfortunately. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif


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## junior (Nov 21, 2004)

Nice up grades. However, when i think of pimped out, i think of fake/real gold, diamonds and pimp colors like pink, red etc.,


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## milkyspit (Nov 21, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
*junior said:*
Nice up grades. However, when i think of pimped out, i think of fake/real gold, diamonds and pimp colors like pink, red etc., 

[/ QUOTE ]

Well, junior, we could pimp yours up real nice! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif


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## absoLite (Nov 23, 2004)

Somwhere here I read that a Kroll switch fits in the QIII instead of the stock switch.
This would give you momentary and the Kroll can be modded to have 2 stages.

What resistor values do you guys use for your 2-stage QIII ?


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## milkyspit (Nov 26, 2004)

Absolite, I could be badly mistaken, but in my own experiments a Kroll will NOT fit into the tail of a QIII unless some sort of aluminum threaded sleeve were made to adapt the Kroll to the slightly wider inner diameter of the QIII. Also, the Kroll two-stage mods I've seen all involve loosening the tailcap or partially unscrewing the Kroll itself to achieve the dual brightness effect. The swith I've FINALLY located (which isn't a Kroll) will allow low and high to be two switch settings, in addition to off. For example, you could setup your light for click to low, click again to high, click again to off, then repeat.


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## absoLite (Nov 26, 2004)

Scott,
You're right, the Kroll doesn't fit. The OP said it does fit in the QI and should also fit in the QIII, but later it came out that it doesn't.

I think the switch you found will be better anyway, because (as you said) there is no need to loosen the thread (which would be bad since the O-ring is right at the edge of the tailcap).

So I can't wait to get one of your switches /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif, did you receive them already ?

BTW, what resistor did you use for the low stage ? I think the brightness of an ARC AAA would be be nice ..


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## milkyspit (Nov 27, 2004)

Absolite, haven't placed the order for those switches yet because I keep upgrading the quantity that I'll order! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif Many will be destined for my MC2 (Milky Candle version 2) build, some will be sold in fairly large quantities to other modders, and I'm thinking the remainder will go to B/S/T for anyone who'd like one.

Might also make sense to have Wayne stock them in his Sandwich Shoppe as a convenience item, but I haven't talked to him about that possibility yet.

Regarding the low stage resistor, I used 10 ohms and like it very much. Keep in mind that I'm running a Dorcy board in my pimpadelic QIII, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif not the stock circuit, so you might find a different value more appropriate... but for what it's worth, I also use 10 ohms in my homemade dual brightness Arc LS mods, so it seems to be a pretty good first guess for most of these single cell lights. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## Krit (Nov 27, 2004)

How to compare stock circuit to Madmax+, I know rarely about circuit. I will change stock luxIII to TX0J, eventhough I plan to use r123a for economicaly use.


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## milkyspit (Nov 27, 2004)

Krit, I've never tested head-to-head, but I think the MadMax+ would initially be markedly brighter than the stock QIII circuit, and both would probably run for about the same amount of time. As far as the R123, my hunch is that it'll be sending power to your LED in essentially direct drive, meaning the circuit isn't operating at all... in fact, you could probably remove the stock circuit entirely and just wire the R123 straight to the Luxeon, and get the same brightness.


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## absoLite (Dec 1, 2004)

I'm thinking of grinding down the somewhat sharp edges of the bezel to reduce overall length and to save my jeans pockets from destruction /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Scott, you said you did remove the bezel using 2 pliers.
Does the lens separate from the bezel this way so the bezel can be worked with without fear of damaging some important parts ?


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## milkyspit (Dec 1, 2004)

Absolite, I don't know if the lens separates this way, but my guess is that it DOES come out one way or another. The reflector might be threaded into place from the inside, and once that's unscrewed (or maybe a retaining ring is removed or something), it probably falls out to allow the lens to be swapped. I'm just speculating on this, though! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

If I have time tonight, I'll take a look... but not sure I'll get the time, today's pretty busy.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif


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## ledaholic (Dec 1, 2004)

The reflector unscrews from the bezel. I had to use heat to soften the loctite or whatever they used.


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## absoLite (Dec 2, 2004)

Ok, I think I will protect the lens (and the rest of the bezel) by some tape or so and then try to remove the edges with the bezel mounted.


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## PaulB (Dec 2, 2004)

Strap wrenches ! Rubber belted "wrenches".
They work very well and will never scratch. You should be able to seperate the head from the body with strap wrenches.
You can get them almost anywhere. Got mine at Harbor Freight.

Milky, I still want 2 of those switches.
Let me know when to send $.

Abso, I had the same thought about removing the crowns on the bezel. If you do it, can you post a picture ?
I think there is a product called "aluminum black" that could be used on the bare aluminum so it will look half-way decent when done.
Thanks !


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## absoLite (Dec 2, 2004)

PaulB, sure I will post a picture when it's done, but that could be just well after X-mas, because the QIII will be a gift for me and I'm not sure if I want to "ruin" the light before already /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## ledaholic (Dec 2, 2004)

Strap wrenches will not work to remove the reflector from the bezel as the reflector is screwed down inside of the bezel.


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## PaulB (Dec 2, 2004)

The strap wrenches are for unscrewing the head from the body only.


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## Blades (Dec 3, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
*milkyspit said:*
3. Removed the switch from inside the tailcap, and inserted an O-ring to recess the rubber boot just enough for the light to stand upright. 

[/ QUOTE ]

That is what I need to do, my light came on yesterday, and I found out because it was a little warm. Since I carry IWB, I was starting to cook some important pieces of my body. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif How do I install the O-ring, and do you know what size, or can I send it to you??



Blades


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## Krit (Dec 5, 2004)

Hi milkyspit, Thanks for advices. I try to change to MM+ but if use r123a it might becomes DD as you said.

I replace with other nuwai 2 stage switch. The low level is run so long. 










I replace stock lens with 22 mm. glass from Dat2Zip which is very clear.


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## milkyspit (Dec 5, 2004)

Congratulations, Krit! Those are some GREAT photos, too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Cool! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif


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## Anglepoise (Dec 5, 2004)

Krit,
Could you detail the procedure you adopted to replace the plastic lens with a glass one.

I would like to do the mod but need to know what tools etc I need.


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## Robocop (Dec 11, 2004)

Scott this is a very interesting thread and you do some incredible work.
I have many of these Dorcy boards and have used them for many mods however I have always had to sacrifice some size due to the long shape of the board.Can you explain how you actually fit this board into this light?...Or maybe show a photo of the set up you have?
My QIII is very white and bright however I like having the option of switching out the circuit.Did you have to modify the head or bezel of the light any....or in other words can you swap out the circuits and replace the circuits back to the original form if you wanted to do so?
I do not have the skill to remove all the parts on the Dorcy board and make it a smaller package however I have seen some here that have done this.If I use this board it has to remain in its original form which is kind of long for smaller lights.
Great work on this and I appreciate any help you can give.


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## MR Bulk (Dec 11, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
*milkyspit said:*
Why thank you, Mr. Hotster! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Your blessing pretty much officially endorses my mod. Now all I need is certification from the great MR Bulk to seal the deal! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif 

[/ QUOTE ]


Sorry Scott, did not even see this thread as I've been buried under - well, you know what I've been buried under.

Hokay, consider yourself blessed, as your LH is on is way Monday - oops, you meant for this mod. Okay:

"KEWL! _Ah *lawkit*! Ah lawkit ver' much, in fact!_"

There... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif


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## milkyspit (Dec 13, 2004)

Robocop, I don't have any photos at the moment, but the Q-III has a hollow aluminum ring inside that separates the Luxeon III star from the stock circuit board. To install the Dorcy board, I was able to JUST fit it leaning diagonally inside the aluminum ring. I could have cut off the two tabs at the bottom of the board, and the two tabs at the top, to make it smaller and fit even more easily. BTW, I did have to make a homemade positive contact board to sit underneath the aluminum ring so once the stock circuit was removed, there would still be a positive connection with the batteries. Hope this description helps, and doesn't just confuse you more! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

Also, MANY THANKS for your very kind words! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif


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## LITEmania (Dec 13, 2004)

ring


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## beam_me_up (Dec 13, 2004)

The only pimping I want done to my Q-III is to do whatever it takes to drive that baby to it's full power! Looks like R123's will be the easiest way for me as I have no knowledge whatsoever on how to put a higher booster circuit in there or whatever it needs to grab more juice /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I've been told that the stock Q-III runs the Luxeon at just under 2 watts.....so c'mon guys we need to squeeze that extra watt outta there somehow! Who's with me!?!?


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## Haesslich (Dec 13, 2004)

beam - you'd need to increase the thermal transfer on the Q-III before you tried to dissipate that much heat. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Otherwise it's going to fry the LED, and you'll be stuck with a dead light.


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## absoLite (Dec 14, 2004)

scott, is there an update on the 2-stage switches you planned to order ?


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## milkyspit (Dec 14, 2004)

absoLite, funny you should mention the switches... I've got a small number on order that are due to arrive this week! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif However, I wanted to order a smaller number this first time around to make sure they're what I'm expecting in terms of size, operation, etc. If all looks good, I'll order a whole boxful and we can let the fun begin! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/party.gif

One thing I do know that's a little different from my original expectation: these switches will NOT go directly from off to low to high then repeat... rather, they'll follow this sequence: OFF, ON(low), OFF, ON(high), then repeat. Hopefully that's not such a big deal with folks. It kinda bums me out a bit, but I can live with it.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif


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## absoLite (Jan 4, 2005)

scott, in your first thread post you mention a switch from another Nuwai:

[ QUOTE ]
*milkyspit said:*
4. While the tailswitch was opened, I replaced the switch board itself with a dual brightness one from another Nuwai light, and replaced the resistance for the low beam with a 10 ohm resistor.


[/ QUOTE ]

Would you mind telling me the type of this other light ?
Did this switch fit in well ?

I wonder if you recieved the new switches in the meantime, and how they work, do they also operate reverse-wise ?

BTW: Happy New Year ! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/party.gif


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## milkyspit (Jan 4, 2005)

absoLite, the donor for that two stage switch was a generic light that looked like it was also a Nuwai, hosting a Luxeon V emitter and billed as dual brightness. The low beam was IMHO pretty sad, so I figured the switch could do more good in the Q-III, heh heh. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

I did get the switches in! Except that I've only got 10 at the moment and don't really want to sell those. Wanted to see the real product first to make sure it really was what I thought, and it is! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Uh, almost: it goes OFF/ON1/OFF/ON2, then repeats the cycle.

If enough folks want this switch, I'll order another couple hundred or so and start sending 'em out to folks. So EVERYONE ELSE, please remind me... who was looking for some of these? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

BTW, Happy New Year to you, too! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/party.gif


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## AW (Jan 4, 2005)

I want one !!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/popcorn.gif


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## Hallis (Jan 4, 2005)

Scott, you do not sleep do you? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Nice QIII mod, Im not really much of a multaple brightness guy, i generally want full throttle all the time /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif But if one were so enclined to experioment with a NG750/Li-ion combination in a Q-III would this switch be a simple drop-in replacement or are additional mods required? I dont know if thats been covered already. I might have even read you talking about it but ive been up for close to 24 hours now and am getting a little punchy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Shane


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## teststrips (Jan 4, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*milkyspit said:*it goes OFF/ON1/OFF/ON2, then repeats the cycle.

[/ QUOTE ]

I got my dad a Twintask 3C light this xmas... it has a 3 stage switch that goes ON1/ON2/ON3/OFF any chance you might be able to find one of those? I'd probably make mine DIM/FULL/DIM(AGAIN)/OFF so if I need a short burst of bright light, i can return to dim again without turning off the light.


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## Anglepoise (Jan 4, 2005)

Milkyspit,

Please put me down for ( 2 ) two stage switches.


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## red_robby (Jan 4, 2005)

i'm in for 2 switches.


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## milkyspit (Jan 4, 2005)

Teststrips, if you ever happen to dissect that light, see if the switch has any markings on it... maybe it'll have a manufacturer's name or part number. It would be great to find a source, but unfortunately this type of switch seems to be pretty hard to find! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

Hallis, sorry I forgot to answer your question about the drop-in mod. The replacement switch is physically identical to the stock switch inside the Q-III tailcap, except that the replacement switch has one additional lead coming out of it. It's not really drop-in, though, because you'd need to unsolder the old switch then solder this one in its place, and finally attach a resistor to the extra lead to get the lower level of brightness working. If you're comfortable doing some simple soldering, it wouldn't be very difficult, but it definitely does need that little bit of effort to make it work.

BTW, just read newbie CPFer vezk's post on modding his own Q-III. He did a great job, and shared some terrific pictures! To be honest, his Q-III is more pimped-out than my own. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif He even did the bits o' foil mod I suggested somewhere way far back in this thread to get momentary activation to work! Great job, vezk! Way to go!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/party.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/party.gif

BTW, his thread is over here.


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## teststrips (Jan 5, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
I replaced the resistance for the low beam with a 10 ohm resistor

[/ QUOTE ]

I am working on a dual brightness mod in my q3... how big of a resistor did you use? Will a 1/4 watt work OK, or must I go with a bigger resistor. Thanks


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## ledaholic (Jan 5, 2005)

Hey Scott, looks like I could use about 3 switches.


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## milkyspit (Jan 5, 2005)

Teststrips, I *think* I used a 1/2 watt resistor, but it was a really tight fit! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif IMHO a 1/4 watt would work fine for low beam... and if you do happen to burn it out, the resistor is cheap to replace and the high beam will continue to work until you make the repair.

Short answer: go for it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Ledaholic and everyone else, looks like I'll be placing another switch order. Probably won't happen until I've got some breathing room workwise, which means this weekend, hopefully. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif To keep my own sanity plus make the postage charge hurt a little less, I'm thinking of selling these in a minimum quantity of TWO switches. When the order arrives, I'll post in B/S/T and post a link to that thread here, so everyone will hopefully know about it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Now let's cross our thousands of collective fingers on getting the order taken care of without incident! It's kinda going to end up like a group buy, and I've never done one. Hope it works out okay! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## MJRMetalworks (Jan 7, 2005)

Milky,

Put me down for two of the two stage switches when you order them. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

- Mike


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## chucky (Jan 12, 2005)

i'm in for 2 switches.


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## NetMage (Jan 30, 2005)

After reading a few of these mod posts, I still don't see how to get the ring/LED/circuit assembly out. Mine seems to be in there pretty tight, even after taking off head, etc.

How did you get the ring unit out?

BTW, are you still offering to mod Q-IIIs?


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## absoLite (Jan 31, 2005)

NetMage, you could try to loosen the screws that hold the clip. The holes go through so it may be possible that the screws prevent the module from getting out.


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## Chop (Jan 31, 2005)

Scott,

This might be a bit off topic, but I have to take my hat off to you. I'd love to be a fly on the wall in your shop.

Your mods/ideas/builds have been an inspiration to many of us.

Keep it up!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif


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## Hookd_On_Photons (Jan 31, 2005)

I commissioned milkyspit to repair and upgrade my deceased Nuwai Q-III, and I'm very happy with how it turned out.

I chose not to use the Dorcy circuit.

The two-stage switch is great. The low setting is comparable to an Arc AAA standard, and is more than adequate for close-range tasks in the dark. Brightness on the high setting was improved with an SYOJ Lux 3 (the stock emitter was an SWOK bin).

This is a nice upgrade for a light that's already a great value. Highly recommended!


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## milkyspit (Feb 1, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*NetMage said:*
After reading a few of these mod posts, I still don't see how to get the ring/LED/circuit assembly out. Mine seems to be in there pretty tight, even after taking off head, etc.

How did you get the ring unit out?

BTW, are you still offering to mod Q-IIIs? 

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi NetMage! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif First, are you sure you disassembled the correct section of the light? The body actually consists of THREE pieces, not counting the tailcap. One piece is the knurled portion of the battery tube, the second piece is the textured portion of the head, and the third piece is between those two. To pull out the guts of the light, you need to unscrew the textured head piece... if you did this correctly, the reflector will be attached to the inside of the head piece, and looking into your light you'll see the Luxeon star, with the aluminum ring and circuit board underneath.

Assuming you got that far, remove your tailcap and battery, then stand your Q3 head down on a soft object like a towel, and insert something reasonably forgiving, like maybe a wooden dowel, into the battery tube. Tap the dowel GENTLY until you're able to dislodge the guts. Normally they slide right out, but maybe with your light a drop of epoxy or something seeped inside while locking the threads.

Hope that helps! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Oh, almost forgot! *YES, I am still offering mods!* Let me pimp-out your Q3!!! PM if interested in some pimpadelic modding. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif


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## milkyspit (Feb 1, 2005)

Chop, that's an incredibly nice thing to say! It makes me very happy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

You have NO IDEA how many bizarre and wonderful (sometimes both at once!) mods are sitting around the Milky Labs these days! Ginseng and Tweek slept over at my place following PF3, and we got into an improvised little mod session. They saw some of the stuff! Heh heh. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

Hookd, I actually carried your light around outside for a while (as I do with most mods) to give it a little field test. Glad you like the low beam... some people like it brighter. Personally, I like your light just the way it turned out! Hope you enjoy it for a long time to come.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Thanks guys! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## Anglepoise (Feb 2, 2005)

I am about to put my dual stage switch into the QIII.
I have two, 10 ohm resistor, one 1/4 watt and the other 1/2 watt.

There is not much room and it will be allot easier to use the 1/4 watt, however I do not have the electrical knowledge to be sure on this. Any suggestions from you electrical guys???


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## milkyspit (Feb 2, 2005)

Anglepoise, I've used 1/4 watt resistors in the past with no problems... but even if the resistor got cooked, it would only knock out your low beam, not the high beam. You might want to slip a little piece of heatshrink tubing or even a piece cut from the end of a plastic drinking straw over the resistor so the protective epoxy doesn't get scraped off when you jam that switch assembly back into the tailcap.


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## 4sevens (Feb 2, 2005)

Typical draw is 150ma on low. So thats about .45 Watts.


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## Anglepoise (Feb 2, 2005)

Thanks. I have been running a 1/4 watt on the bench for an hour and the temp is stable at 120° F.


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## wasBlinded (Feb 2, 2005)

Scott et al. -

Just finished the two stage switch upgrade, using a 10 ohm resistor, and everything went well, thanks for sending the switches. It took me about an hour and a half to do the first time, might take me 30 minutes a second time.

You did not mention this, and maybe it is not in all Q3s, but my switch circuit board actually has the traces and holes to directly support the three way switch AND the resistor. After breaking the solder bridge at the spot for the resistor, I soldered in the 10 ohm. Then replaced the switch. I'm really surprised the original Q3 doesn't come this way anyway - the board is designed for it.


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## wasBlinded (Feb 2, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*4sevens said:*
Typical draw is 150ma on low. So thats about .45 Watts. 

[/ QUOTE ]

If the light is drawing 150 mA on low, with a 3 volt cell and a 10 ohm resistor, then the resistor itself is dissipating .225 watts and so is within its wattage rating.


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## 4sevens (Feb 2, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*Blinded said:*
[ QUOTE ]
*4sevens said:*
Typical draw is 150ma on low. So thats about .45 Watts. 

[/ QUOTE ]

If the light is drawing 150 mA on low, with a 3 volt cell and a 10 ohm resistor, then the resistor itself is dissipating .225 watts and so is within its wattage rating. 

[/ QUOTE ]

V * I = W
3 * .15 = .45 right?

or am I mistaken?


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## Penguin (Feb 2, 2005)

UH OH! I think i boiled my QIII for TOO long....... It doesn't work anymore /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif SYAK was the bin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif How long are you SUPPOSED to boil it?


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## wasBlinded (Feb 2, 2005)

If 3 volts is driving 150 mA through the whole circuit for a total of .45 watts, that is a total circuit resistance of 20 ohms. The resistor is 10 ohms, so is accounting for half of the voltage drop, and so half the power dissipated.

Mathematically, in the case of the resistor, W=R*I^^2, so power = 10 * (.150)^^2


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## TrueBlue (Feb 2, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*Penguin said:*
UH OH! I think i boiled my QIII for TOO long....... It doesn't work anymore /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif SYAK was the bin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif How long are you SUPPOSED to boil it? 

[/ QUOTE ]
I think you boiled it too long...obviously /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif.

I dropped my Q3 in a thin plastic bag and used hot water from a pressure pot for 30 seconds. The top twisted right off.


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## Niteowl (Feb 3, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*haveblue said:*
[ QUOTE ]
*Penguin said:*
UH OH! I think i boiled my QIII for TOO long....... It doesn't work anymore /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif SYAK was the bin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif How long are you SUPPOSED to boil it? 

[/ QUOTE ]
I think you boiled it too long...obviously.

I dropped my Q3 in a thin plastic bag and used hot water from a pressure pot for 30 seconds. The top twisted right off. 

[/ QUOTE ]

Bummer Penguin!

I've been wanting to do that for months and I just got done boiling mine in a ziploc freezer bag for about three minutes while I cooked some eggs. The tube came off but the head wouldn't come apart......I know others have done this but I was freakin' anyways. Still works. I'll try again tomorrow night. At least I got to eat.

What should I use to clean the loc-tite off the threads?

Mark


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## Penguin (Feb 3, 2005)

Oh well... I had a spare Q3 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif which im planning on boiling (for much shorter!) and dropping in a mineral lens and SO20 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif And I have battery station R123's coming /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif can't wait!


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## milkyspit (Feb 3, 2005)

Hi all! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif

Man, there are TONS of new posts since yesterday evening! Amazing. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif No doubt I'll completely miss something, or just end up repeating what someone's already posted... please excuse if that happens!... but here are some thoughts on all the above, all crammed into one big, no doubt unreadable post... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/faint.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Anglepoise, if you'd been running a 1/4 watt resistor for an hour and the temp stabilized at 120 degrees F, I'd say that's your strongest evidence that you ought to have no problems. Also, look at the potential downside: if the resistor DOES burn out (unlikely any time soon, given your measurements), it's easy to unscrew the tailcap's guts and simply solder another one in place, with a cost of something silly like 2 cents. Meanwhile, the high beam will never be affected by the resistor failure! Your Q3 would simply revert to being a single brightness light until you made repairs.

But wait, there's more! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif The resistor will be crammed tightly against the aluminum sidewall of the tailcap, so it'll get a certain amount of heatsinking and might very well run COOLER once the tailcap is closed than it did on the bench, in open air... and for what it's worth, I've even used a 1/8 watt resistor in the tailcap on at least one Q3 mod, and so far it hasn't even hinted at failing. Bottom line, I say go for it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

4sevens, you're right, WATTS are VOLTS multiplied by CURRENT, mathematically speaking. The only thing is that the resistor isn't dropping all that voltage by itself... otherwise the LED wouldn't have any juice left to light at all! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif We know it's a 10 ohm resistor, and know the current flow is 150mA, which is the same as 0.150A. Ohm's Law tells us that VOLTAGE is CURRENT multiplied by RESISTANCE, do the resistor itself is dropping 0.150 multiplied by 10, which equals 1.5V.

Taking all the above, that means the wattage generated by the resistor itself would be 1.5 multiplied by 0.15, which equals 0.225V. So a 1/4 watt resistor ought to be fine. As for the 1/8 watt resistor I stashed in one of my own Q3 mods, well... let's just say it's living dangerously! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif But it IS still living, at least so far. I suspect there's a certain amount of overdriving that a typical resistor can handle beyond its spec'd rating, which may be why the 1/8 watt resistor is working. Or I may have just gotten lucky.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

Blinded, you're right! That little board is all decked out for dual brightness switching... just a little time spent soldering, and voila! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif I think Nuwai does that because they use the same board in many of their lights, some featuring dual brightness, some not. It makes sense for them to run a larger quantity of one board rather than smaller runs of two boards... cheaper and easier to inventory. Fortunately, it also makes for a mod-friendly tailcap for us modders! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif In fact, the dual brightness tailswitch I used in my original pimped-out Q3 as shown in the photo at the top of this entire thread, actually was transplanted from a Nuwai 5W light that I owned at the time. Remember, I did that pimping before finding a source for the dual stage switches! Had to get my fix from somewhere, man. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

Penguin, *<warning: stump mode ON>* I have never had to boil a Q3, nor do I think it's a good idea! There's just too much risk of damaging the plastic parts inside. Also, from what I've read, Loktite doesn't actually degrade at the temperature of boiling water... you'd need temps at least double that, if memory serves! What I do instead is protect the light itself with some cloth, a thick piece of rubber, or whatever (several big O-rings slid over the light work pretty well), then stick the light into a vise from about where the clip is attached on downward, take a pair of pliers, grab the head, and give it a short, sharp counterclockwise twist. You may have to repeat this a couple times to break the Loktite. Patience, man, and make sure you don't mar your light with the pliers! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif Once you get the hang of the procedure, you'll have the head opened within a minute or less, with no risk of melting ANYTHING. *<stump mode OFF.>*

Niteowl, you might try some acetone to remove the Loktite from the threads, or maybe even some of that concentrated orange cleaner goop. If you prefer to live on the edge a bit, put a whisk wheel (or even more daring is the wire wheel) in your Dremel and swipe away all the gunk in the threads in no time! Just be careful not to swipe away the THREAD, too!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ohgeez.gif

That said, I usually don't find it necessary to remove the gunk from the threads... the light seems to screw together nicely even when it's left in place.

If anyone needs some assistance, send your Q3 my way! I'm glad to help. PM me if interested. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## rantanplan (Feb 4, 2005)

I´ve "boiled" my Q3 for at least two minutes and it works still fine. Before that, I´ve tried the brute force method, but this only resulted in two scratches ... don´t try it when you don´t have the right tools /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Btw, "Nuwai" seems to be "loctite" fan. The core module (switch, resistors, heatsink) of my TM-116X was also fixed with "loctite". Freshly boiled it can be simply pulled out.


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## Anglepoise (Feb 4, 2005)

Thanks milky. Will try a 1/4 watt. Incidentally, I used gentle heat from a micro torch to successfully get mine apart. Lacquer thiner dissolved the thread goo.


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## matrixshaman (Feb 5, 2005)

I've got a question and maybe a suggestion about the use of a resistor to drop the brightness of the LS. When you use a resistor is series to lower the output of an LED aren't you using just as much power for that circuit as you are for running it without the resistor? Basic circuit theory if I remember correctly would indicate you are still drawing as much power from the battery. If correct than wouldn't it be better to run a tiny 7803 (the small transistor size package) or something along that line to drop the voltage with this IC regulator circuit (all built in that little unit) so that you are lowering the output with a regulator circuit that uses very little power itself as opposed to a resistor that uses a lot of power and dissapates a lot of heat? The LS's will run nicely at reduced output on 3 volts and while I realize you are running two regulator circuits in that case to bump 3 volts up to 5 volts and then back down to 3 volts it would probably be easier than trying to physically bypass the entire regulator circuit and you would likely be getting current regulation so it would not be the same as running the LS straight from a 3v battery. Those little IC packages aren't 2 cents each like a resistor but then I think they are in the $1 range and with the savings in battery useage as well as extended burn time would probably be worth it. I'm really just taking a guess on most of this and may be totally wrong on this concept - what do you thin Scott? I used to build a lot of things with the 78xx series regulators - 3 wire IC's and they may have smaller and better ones now but I am fairly sure when you use one of these instead of a resistor you are consuming a let less power overall in a circuit.


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## matrixshaman (Feb 5, 2005)

Actually I wanted to add that you're not in quite the same situation with the Q3 since it already has a regulator circuit you are just lowering the voltage to that circuit and not directly to the LED - thus my idea in the last post may not be totally valid but I think it might be worth some consideration. Any thoughts?


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## absoLite (Feb 5, 2005)

matrixshaman, 
I thought the same and measured the current that the whole thing draws with and without a 10 Ohm resistor:
Without the resistor the current with a fresh CR123A is about 750 mA.
With the resistor, the current is about 100 mA.

So the circuit draws less current if powered with lower voltage.


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## wasBlinded (Feb 5, 2005)

matrixshaman -

Since the Zetex circuit in the Q3 is just a booster and not a regulator, it will not try to draw more current from the battery to make up for the resistor - the resistor will just reduce total current flow through the circuit causing a dimmer LED and lower battery drain.

The downside of simply putting a resistor in there is that the resistor is dissipating about half of the power that is pulled from the battery, so overall 'efficiency' of the circuit is very poor - well under 50%. This simply means that runtime on low is only 4-6 hours, instead of the 8-10 hours it could be with a truly efficient system.


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## milkyspit (Feb 6, 2005)

Matrixshaman, absoLite and wasBlinded are both right... the presence of the resistor causes current flow to decrease, so overall the power output of the battery drops significantly. I will add that even in a more tightly controlled regulation circuit like the one in the KL1, a resistor can have the same effect of generating a "low" beam by dropping the input voltage to the regulator below the minimum voltage the regulation circuit needs to run... in many cases, the flashlight runs essentially in direct drive once you've gone below the minimum required voltage for the regulator... it's as if the regulation circuit steps out of the way, so to speak. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

That said, a resistor isn't always the best approach! Yes, in this particular case the efficiency will be roughly 50%, which of course is nothing to write home about. But in practice it turns out to be a fairly easy retrofit to a light like the Q3 that was built to operate at a single brightness only.

The better way to handle dimming would be something like what MR Bulk designed into his VIP flashlight, where a multi position switch was wired directly into the regulator's circuit board to change the output current depending on which position the switch was set to. That approach lets all the levels operate in full regulation, and with high efficiency. The problem with modding an existing light, though, is that it's logistically near impossible to run additional wires from a removable tailcap all the way up the body to the regulation circuit that sits in the head, so either a second switch would need to be added, meaning drilling a new hole, rewiring the board, etc. (and that's if there's even enough space up front to do that!); or the tailcap resistor trick can come to the rescue as a pretty good, though far from ideal, solution.

A lot of this depends on one's viewpoint, too... you know, the glass is half full vs. half empty sort of thing... in this case, we could say (as above) that the resistor gives us a low beam lasting 4-6 hours instead of the 8-10 hours we could potentially get with a better design... OR we could say that the resistor takes a light with a runtime not much longer than 1 hour, and turns it into something capable of running 4-6 hours while still offering the ability to switch into that same high beam when needed! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

BTW, runtime will likely be longer than 4-6 hours, because the resistor drops the light into an unregulated mode with gradual dimming of the LED... the light will probably keep running for dozens of hours, but at some point you'll feel like it's become too dim and voluntarily change the battery.


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## milkyspit (Feb 10, 2005)

Weehee! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I just rediscovered some digital photos I had taken of the stock Q3 tailswitch circuit board, so after a little quick cropping and cleanup, I present them for the enjoyment of legions of Q3 pimps all over the world! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

_*Top of the tailswitch board, with the square white outline showing where the stock switch has already been removed...*_






_*Bottom of the tailswitch board. Note the rectangle near the "RX" marking...*_





The switch is built into a short, square body, with two leads coming out one side. Operation is simple: one click connects the leads so electrical current can flow; the next click disconnects the leads; then the cycle repeats. The three holes near the "SW" marking show where the leads connect to the board... although for a stock Q3 light, the rightmost hole wasn't used.

Actually, this brings up an interesting point. As somebody already mentioned in this thread, the board is already designed for dual brightness operation! Only a replacement switch and a resistor are necessary to get dual brightness working. (BTW, I've got 100 more two stage switches on their way to me right now, so watch for their availability soon!) The replacement switch (as you might guess) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif has THREE leads coming out the side, so all three would be soldered to the three holes on the top of the circuit board.

The little metal extension, like a tiny antenna sitting all alone on top of the board, is actually what makes electrical contact with the flashlight's body, to connect the negative terminal of the 123 cell to the aluminum body itself.

See those two holes at the left edge of the board's top, with two more holes sitting in parallel a bit below? That's where the resistor gets mounted for the low beam! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif From the factory, the board has a solder bridge connecting those two sets of holes. (See the photo of the BOTTOM of the board, inside the rectangle near the "RX" marking, to see where the solder bridge would be... I had already removed it before taking this photo!) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

Once you remove the solder bridge (necessary to get dual brigtness capability), you can mount either a surface mount resistor on the BOTTOM of the board where the solder trace used to be... or install a more conventional resistor on the top side of the board... take your pick! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Just make sure the resistor still fits without sustaining damage when the board is pushed back into the tailcap.

The big metal circle on the bottom of the board is where the spring in the tailcap sits, for connectivity with the negative terminal of the 123 cell.

That's pretty much it! Although I haven't gotten any sort of confirmation on this, IMHO the plant must use these same boards for a number of lights of both dual brightness and single brightness varieties. It makes sense in terms of economies of scale, and in this case works out great for the dual brightness upgrade mod using the replacement switches.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif


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## absoLite (Feb 11, 2005)

Thanks for the info !
If only the switches had LOW-HIGH-OFF instead of LOW-OFF-HIGH-OFF /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif


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## Marc (Feb 11, 2005)

I'm in for a switch when available.


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## wquiles (Feb 11, 2005)

How much are the switches going for?

Does the new switch supports momentary ON, or do you have to press, click, and release before you get any light?

Will


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## milkyspit (Feb 12, 2005)

Right now I'm thinking $5 per switch with domestic (USA) postage included, and a minimum order of 2 switches. That price still isn't "official" until I post in B/S/T... but the thinking is to keep it simple with an easy flat rate per switch like that, with Paypal fees, mailers, postage cost, etc., already rolled into the pricing. International postage would cost a bit more, but only enough more to cover the increased cost.

Anyone who already knows they want the switches, feel free to "preorder" by sending me a PM, and I'll take care of ya! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## Former_Mag_User (Feb 13, 2005)

How do I take the reflector out of the QII? I just boiled mine a few minutes ago and succesfully took the head off. Now I can't take the reflector out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif


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## AW (Feb 13, 2005)

Boil it again for couple minutes ( in a ziplock ) and usr a needle nose plier or clip ring plier to remove the reflector.


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## milkyspit (Feb 13, 2005)

There's another choice of baggie you folks could use for the boiling process... those plastic liners made as "disposable" baby bottles! In a typical grocery store, you can buy a boxful of those for maybe $4-5, and they're specifically designed to survive boiling. Might give some extra peace of mind while boiling your beautiful little Q-III. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## Former_Mag_User (Feb 13, 2005)

I still can't take it out! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/Christo_pull_hair.gif

EDIT: I was finally able to take it out. I am going to install a IMS 20mm reflector and a AR coated glass lens from the Sandwich Shoppe. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I'm also interested in the 2 stage switch. I'll get that done for me soon. Stay tuned milkyspit.


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## Niteowl (Feb 13, 2005)

IIRC the reflector is threaded in. Is that the case? I'm not especially know for an excellent memory.

milkyspit, PM sent regarding switches. 

Mark


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## Wrangler (Feb 14, 2005)

This 2-stage switch is exactly what KLAUS did to my Q3!
Now it`s almost the perfect EDC!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif
As mentioned in earlier posts it`s a TWOK DD on r123 and with a 50 Ohms resistor for the low setting now. Awesome light! Thanks a lot to KLAUS!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
But be careful when boiling the head for removing the reflector. Our plastic bag leaked and the boiling water destroyed the reflectors surface. That`s why I`m looking for a new stock reflector now. (Ordered an IMS reflector already.)
Wolfgang


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## AW (Feb 14, 2005)

I always use double bag for boiling.


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## pmoore (Feb 14, 2005)

Scott;
As I saw in your first post "Replaced the stock boost circuit with a modified board pulled from a Dorcy 1AAA LED light" Can you define modified for me? I have one of these and would love to play with it. Paul


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## milkyspit (Feb 14, 2005)

Danny, I'm ready and waiting whenever you need those switches, either by themselves or for me to do a complete tailcap mod. Just say the word! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Mark, PM sent! Or maybe about to be sent. I've been replying to a bunch of them, and remember yours in there somethere! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif BTW, you're right, the stock reflector is threaded.

Paul, that stock Dorcy 1AAA LED circuit gets the following treatment: (1) remove the spring; (2) remove the 5mm LED; (3) add output wires where the LED was connected, and input wires where the spring had been (positive) and at one of the tabs on the other end of the board (negative); (4) short out the 1 ohm resistor for slightly improved performance; and (5) add one more surface mount 10uF capacitor on the empty pads below the two already on the board, again for improved performance. I don't remember the exact numbers, but Doug S had done a detailed analysis of this circuit a while back and found several percentage points efficiency improvement (if memory serves) when driving with a 3V input voltage. Incidentally, for 3V input and a Luxeon with a very low Vf on the output side, you can expect roughly 410mA output current. Could also experiment with driving the board on 4.5V input voltage, though I haven't done that yet.


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## Former_Mag_User (Feb 14, 2005)

Scott, PM sent.


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## pmoore (Feb 14, 2005)

Thanks Mr.Spit I will try that. Paul


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## milkyspit (Feb 15, 2005)

Danny, PM replied.


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## milkyspit (Feb 16, 2005)

Folks, I did a dual brightness mod to a stock Q3 with the *stock circuit* (not the Dorcy 1AAA circuit that I more often use) and found that a good resistance for the low beam is 5 ohms. With the Dorcy 1AAA circuit, the value I've been using is 10 ohms. Thought the info might save somebody out there some time. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## goldserve (Feb 18, 2005)

Milkyspit,

I am very very interested in the dual switch mod. Is there any updates on this? I have my lens ordered and i just took apart the top by heating it with a blow dyer...didn't want to risk damaging my first luxeon led! =D


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## 4sevens (Feb 18, 2005)

I talked to Milky about this, and we decided to both offer the mods /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I bought a bunch of switches from him and will also do the mods for
$25 shipped. My mod includes the two stage switch with low at 10ohms
and an oring installed so it stands on it's tail /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif (international
add $5 for GPM) email me for details /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## goldserve (Feb 19, 2005)

Is this as simple as desolder the old switch and drop in this new one, add a smt resistor? If this is all that is reuiqred, i want to purchase a switch and the the mod myself. Why? Satisfaction and i have all the soldering experience =D Thanks.


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## milkyspit (Feb 19, 2005)

Goldserve, as 4sevens said, both he and I have been offering the tailcap mod including the dual brigtness switch, all labor, shipping, Paypal fees, whatever... for the low, low price of $25 shipped. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

That said, I've also sold just the switches for several people so far. I haven't even gotten the B/S/T listing up yet, folks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ohgeez.gif But the switches are here, and I'm happy to take the orders right now if you send me a PM about it. To keep things simple, *switches cost $5 each with a minimum order of 2... shipping in the USA or Canada included in this price.* I'll watch for your PM, goldserve! (BTW, I can receive Paypals in any form at scott(at)release1(dot)com. Make sure you include your CPF username in the comments!) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

As far as how to install the switch yourself? I've gathered info from some prior posts to show how that would work...

First, you'll need to remove the circuit board from your tailcap. Unscrew the clear plastic threaded ring that's inside your tailcap with a small pair of needlenose pliers. (There are notches that the ends of the pliers slip right into so you can unthread the thing.) Once that's out, gently press inward on the rubber switch boot from the outside of the tailcap using a finger on one hand, and at the same time jiggle the circuit board inside the board with a finger from the other hand to coax the board to slide out.

Next, remove the old switch. I find that all I need to do is snip the two leads coming from the stock switch close to where they meet the circuit board, and the stock switch will lift right off easily. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

What you're left with looks something like this...

_*Top of the tailswitch board, with the square white outline showing where the stock switch has already been removed...*_






_*Bottom of the tailswitch board. Note the rectangle near the "RX" marking...*_





The switch is built into a short, square body, with two leads coming out one side. Operation is simple: one click connects the leads so electrical current can flow; the next click disconnects the leads; then the cycle repeats. The three holes near the "SW" marking show where the leads connect to the board... although for a stock Q3 light, the rightmost hole wasn't used.

Actually, this brings up an interesting point. As somebody already mentioned in this thread, the board is already designed for dual brightness operation! Only a replacement switch and a resistor are necessary to get dual brightness working. The replacement switch (as you might guess) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif has THREE leads coming out the side, so all three would be soldered to the three holes on the top of the circuit board. There's one small complication, though... the leads on the replacement switch extend too far out from the switch body to work properly. To correct this, slowly and carefully take some pliers and straighten the bend in the leads, so they extend straight out of the switch's body... then again carefully, fold them downward as close to the switch body as possible. Snip off the portion of the leads that extends below the bottom of the switch body. Now you should be able to sit the replacement switch directly over the board so the three leads line up with the three holes left from the old switch. Just apply some dabs of solder to connect the leads to the holes!

The little metal extension, like a tiny antenna sitting all alone on top of the board, is actually what makes electrical contact with the flashlight's body, to connect the negative terminal of the 123 cell to the aluminum body itself.

See those two holes at the left edge of the board's top, with two more holes sitting in parallel a bit below? That's where the resistor gets mounted for the low beam! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif From the factory, the board has a solder bridge connecting those two sets of holes. (See the photo of the BOTTOM of the board, inside the rectangle near the "RX" marking, to see where the solder bridge would be... I had already removed it before taking this photo!) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

Once you remove the solder bridge (necessary to get dual brigtness capability), you can mount either a surface mount resistor on the BOTTOM of the board where the solder trace used to be... or install a more conventional resistor on the top side of the board... take your pick! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Just make sure the resistor still fits without sustaining damage when the board is pushed back into the tailcap.

The big metal circle on the bottom of the board is where the spring in the tailcap sits, for connectivity with the negative terminal of the 123 cell.

That's pretty much it! Although I haven't gotten any sort of confirmation on this, IMHO the plant must use these same boards for a number of lights of both dual brightness and single brightness varieties. It makes sense in terms of economies of scale, and in this case works out great for the dual brightness upgrade mod using the replacement switches.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Incidentally, I've found 5 ohms of resistance works best for a low beam using the stock circuit... but 10 ohms works best when using the Dorcy 1AAA circuit, or when running mainly rechargeable 123 cells in your light, as 4sevens often does. But experiment a little with various values of resistor to find what works best for you! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Tell ya what! *Super Special One Time Offer.* The first person living in the USA (for quicker and cheaper return shipping, that's all) who's willing to send me their Q3 with $10 stashed in the package to cover a switch plus return shipping, will receive a free dual brightness mod... and will achieve immortality as I use THEIR light to snap photos of the step-by-step process, for posting here. First person to PM me with interest gets the mod! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## Leeoniya (Feb 19, 2005)

i'm guessing the resistor on the back isnt a current sense resistor. and will basically be inline with the full current being put through the battery. what wattage dissipation ratings should be expected?

Leon.


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## Wits' End (Feb 19, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*milkyspit said:*
Tell ya what! *Super Special One Time Offer.* The first person living in the USA (for quicker and cheaper return shipping, that's all) who's willing to send me their Q3 with $10 stashed in the package to cover a switch plus return shipping, will receive a free dual brightness mod... and will achieve immortality as I use THEIR light to snap photos of the step-by-step process, for posting here. First person to PM me with interest gets the mod! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif 

[/ QUOTE ]
PM Sent


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## wasBlinded (Feb 19, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*Leeoniya said:*
i'm guessing the resistor on the back isnt a current sense resistor. and will basically be inline with the full current being put through the battery. what wattage dissipation ratings should be expected?

Leon. 

[/ QUOTE ]

With a 10 ohm, voltage drop is about 1.5 volts, so the power dissipaton is .225 watts.

With a 5 ohm resistor, voltage drop will be less of course, but current will be greater. I don't think the impedance of the convertor board will be linear with respect to supply voltage, so can't guess at what the current will be.

Anyone with a 5 ohm resistor in the circuit want to measure current draw from their Q3 battery?


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## Doc (Feb 19, 2005)

Scott PM sent. Doc


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## goldserve (Feb 21, 2005)

milkyspit, PM sent. thanks.


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## milkyspit (Feb 22, 2005)

Leeoniya, you're right... the tailcap resistor bears the full brunt of the current flow on low beam. I've been using 1/4 watt resistors for the most part, and have yet to experience a failure. In fact, I even installed a 1/8 watt resistor in one case and so far it hasn't failed. IMHO the ideal arrangement, though, is to stack a couple surface mount resistors in parallel along the thin side so they stand against the switch and therefore fit nicely inside the tailcap.

Wits' End, *YOU WON!* If you're still up for it, send me your Q3 and I'll install a dual output tailcap while taking howto photos along the way to share with others. Your light will be famous, dude! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif PM sent... let me know either way. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

wasBlinded, with the stock circuit I measured something around 0.27A using a 5 ohm resistor. Not that it has anything to do with your question, but it's interesting to note that the Dorcy 1AAA circuit I often use in place of stock pumps out pretty much the same brightness with a *10* ohm resistor in the tailcap. Hmm... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

Doc and goldserve, PMs replied! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## Doc (Feb 22, 2005)

Scott /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/paypal.gif 2ea switches 1ea 5 ohm 1ea 10 ohm resistors. Thanks, Doc. I have not yet decided to run on the R123 they have such a short run time on SWOK about 30 mins. About to put in a TWOJ and see what that is like with 5ohm 2 stage tail.


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## milkyspit (Feb 22, 2005)

Doc, got the Paypal, and your mailer is already packed. Now I just need to get the heck out of here so I've got time to whip by the post office on the way to work! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

BTW, I don't have any 5 ohm resistors at the moment, so I included an extra 10 ohm, in a 1/8 watt size so it would more easily fit into the tailcap. You can wire a pair of 10 ohm resistors in parallel to get 5 ohms.

Remember, be patieeeeeeeent in stuffing all the new tailcap guts in there! Definitely don't force if you can help it. I've been punished in the past by having the insulative coating stripped off my resistor by the aluminum threads! With a little care, you won't have to repeat my sorry fate. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif


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## wasBlinded (Feb 22, 2005)

I'm calculating that the 5 ohm resistor, seeing .27 amps flow through it, will be dissipating .36 watts. That would seem to make a solitary 1/8 watt resistor pretty iffy I think - but Scott's experience may show otherwise. Two 1/8 watt 10 ohm resistors in parallel to give 5 ohms should in effect give you a 1/4 watt assembly - that would be more likely to work.


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## milkyspit (Feb 22, 2005)

I'm using a pair of 10 ohm surface mount resistors in parallel to get my 5 ohms of resistance. I pulled the 10 ohm resistors from the circuit board of a long-dead appliance, so I'm not really sure how they're rated, but there are probably 5 ohm surface mount resistors available somewhere out there that are rated for 1/4 or even 1/2 watt, plus thin enough to slip into that tailcap assembly nicely. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## NewBie (Feb 22, 2005)

True 1/4W Surface mount resistors are kinda big, and they tell you to only drive them to half their rating for reliability.

1206 are typically rated for 0.33- 0.25 Watts. Half watt takes you to 2010 sized parts. 

0805 usually is 1/8 Watt

0603 is usually 1/10 to 1/16 Watt


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## milkyspit (Feb 22, 2005)

Thanks for the info NewBie. I've always wondered about the various sizes of surface mount parts. From your description, it would seem that either 1206 or 0805 could take care of things, depending on which resistance value you use.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif


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## Doc (Feb 22, 2005)

Just picked up the Chrome QIII from Warren! Nice light and Chrome matt finish looks good. Just dropped a TWOJ star in this little baby nice and white. Just waiting on the two stage switch mod! Doc.


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## Niteowl (Feb 23, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
* .......as I use THEIR light to snap photos of the step-by-step process, for posting here.

[/ QUOTE ]

Will this be in a "Q-III MODS FOR DUMMIES" format? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

Mark*


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## milkyspit (Feb 23, 2005)

Wow! Didn't even know the Q3 was available in a matte chrome finish. Sounds really pimpadelic. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Niteowl, more like, *"Q-III PIMPS FOR DUMMIES!"* /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif


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## Doc (Feb 23, 2005)

Milkyspit Warren is overseas in Seoul and I think he took 6 or 12 of the QIII apart and had them Chrome coated they are nice kinda have a nickle tone to them looks like the finish would ware good. I got the TWOJ star in last night looks good! I will get the package you sent by this weekend and try two stage switch. Doc. Check this link for the Chrome QIII. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/favlinker.php?Cat=&Entry=46868&F_Board=UBB8&Thread=856885&partnumber=1&postmarker=


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## xpitxbullx (Feb 23, 2005)

Has anyone tried a Lux V in thier Q-III yet? what do you think a safe current would be without additional heatsinking?


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## milkyspit (Feb 24, 2005)

Doc, thanks for the info and the link. Nice light! And Warren, if you're reading this, nice work! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Xpit, never tried a Lux V in my own Q-III mods yet, but maybe I'll give it a shot with the next one I "pimp out." If memory serves, the regulator's circuit board actually makes some mention of 5W, or Luxeon V, or something along those lines... I suspect Nuwai uses the same circuit, maybe with a different sense resistor, in their 5W 2x123 lights. The problem will be runtime, though... IMHO 2x123 isn't a very good power source for a Lux V, as it provides only 30-40 minutes runtime in a typical light. My personal choice of power source with a Lux V would be 3x123, for extended runtime. Now back to the Q-III: that single 123 would get severely thrashed trying to drive a Lux V! It would either need to underdrive the current, or you'd need to make that a rechargeable Li-ion R123 light only... the R123 could probably provide enough juice to keep a Lux V going for 20-30 minutes. (Educated guess.)

Whew! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mpr.gif That got pretty wordy... sorry! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif


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## wasBlinded (Feb 24, 2005)

A Q3 in stock form can get pretty warm, driving the LuxIII at only 2 watts or so. Driving a LuxV at 5 watts will make that little body a REALLY hot potato. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif


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## goldserve (Feb 26, 2005)

Just soldered two 0805 0.25W 10 ohm resistors in parallel. I have a nice low beam but still brighter than any flashlight I have. I am waiting for the two stage switch now.

Milky, does the switch go from low -> high -> off or what?


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## milkyspit (Feb 26, 2005)

Goldserve, I really wanted switches that worked that way, but the only ones I could locate go like this...

LOW...OFF...HIGH...OFF...(then the cycle repeats)

I've used a couple in my own lights so far, and they're actually working out better than I'd expected. Once the light's on, it's as if you double-click to toggle between low and high, and single click to turn it off. Kinda like a poor man's Arc 4+! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## Doc (Mar 2, 2005)

Milkyspit just got the two stage switch done and two 1/8 watt 10 ohm resistors just did a little piggy back on the side of the switch works good! I sure like light and switch also put in a 22.6 ucl lens from Flashlightlens.com and it dropped right in! just a clicken away. Doc.


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## milkyspit (Mar 2, 2005)

Awesome, Doc! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif


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## Former_Mag_User (Mar 8, 2005)

Milkyspit, I guess you obviously won't be able to read this, but why did you set your options to ignore my PM's and posts? I was going to send you a PM to ask if you received my payment and it says that you are ignoring me. 


Are you there? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/au.gif


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## milkyspit (Mar 9, 2005)

Danny, you must have flipped out when you saw that! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ohgeez.gif

Last night I was using a website offline reader to grab copies of all my PMs so I could delete them from CPF, thereby helping the cause as far as not wasting too much database space, but the spidering software went a little haywire and apparently followed a bunch of links that set my profile to ignore a whole bunch of folks, including you! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

Oops. My bad. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Anyway, I *did* see your post, and at this point I should *not* be set to ignore ANYONE. If that's not the case, please contact me at once! You can email me here...







Sorry again! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

P.S. Haven't received your payment yet, but maybe today? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif


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## Former_Mag_User (Mar 9, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*milkyspit said:*
Danny, you must have flipped out when you saw that! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ohgeez.gif

Last night I was using a website offline reader to grab copies of all my PMs so I could delete them from CPF, thereby helping the cause as far as not wasting too much database space, but the spidering software went a little haywire and apparently followed a bunch of links that set my profile to ignore a whole bunch of folks, including you! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

Oops. My bad. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Anyway, I *did* see your post, and at this point I should *not* be set to ignore ANYONE. If that's not the case, please contact me at once! You can email me here...






Sorry again! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

P.S. Haven't received your payment yet, but maybe today? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif 

[/ QUOTE ]

Oh, ok. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif I was pretty confused!


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