# Tofty's Guide to 3D Printing (very pic heavy)



## Tofty (Jan 8, 2014)

Evening all,

As some of you may already be aware i'm quite into 3D printing and have been using it to help me make torches for a while now.
Although for now 3D printing has many limitations, i'm rather optimistic about it's future possibilities.
So i thought i'd share my knowledge of 3D modelling and printing as well as examples of my work to help others utilise this upcoming manufacturing process.


First off I should make clear that I don't own a 3D printer, I get all my printing done through online printing companies like Shapeways and occasionally I.materialise. This has been the solution that best met my requirements, at leat up till now, but getting my own 3D printer is something I look forward to doing when the time is right.

Most domestic 3D printers are of the filament extrusion type; which prints with a continuous filament of molten plastic, a bit like a glue gun mounted to a CNC mill.
These printers have some serious limitations but there is a large community of enthusiasts who work hard to get the most out of these hobbyist machines, sometimes with very impressive results. Due to their limitations using these domestic printers is usually a more challenging exercise to achieve the desired result but since the only consumable is plastic wire, models can be made very cheaply.

In contrast the machines used by most 3D printing providers will be of the solidified powder type; in which a layer of the powdered form of the printing material, be it plastic, metal or other, is bonded together with an adhesive or melted together using a laser. A new powder layer is added above the last bonded layer and the process repeats itself. This is quite an over-simplification of the over-all process but perhaps it explains why these types of printers can deliver much greater accuracy, variety of material and material strength than the domestic filament type printers, although they are vastly more expensive to own, which explains the prevalence of 3D printing providers like Shapeways.


I would suggest that an understanding of 3D modelling and design were pretty much essential but it is possible, so long as you have a well dimensioned or accurately drawn 2D sketch of what you want, to have it turned into a suitable 3D model easily enough if you know the right people.
Many of the free 3D modelling programs available, like Sketchup, are simple to use and provide clear and easy to follow tutorials to work through. Once the basics of 3D modelling are understood the trick is to ensure that your design does not fall outside of the various printing restrictions imposed on each available material. These include: maximum and minimum print lengths and volumes, minimum wall thicknesses and whether or not multiple objects or linked objects are allowed as one model.
Understanding and complying with all the restrictions can be a bit of a trial and error process but most print providing companies have active communities who can help identify these problems when approached.


I'm now going to be talking about Shapeways specifically as I have the most experience with them. Other sites are broadly similar but with some important differences (for instance Shapeways allow multi object models to be printed in plastic and some metals while i.materialise don't)

The printable materials that are be suitable for torches are quite limited; there's no aluminium, copper or high strength robust plastic. This will change over time but for now the options are: Medium strength plastics, stainless steel, sterling silver and more recently brass/bronze.

As discussed earlier the plastic parts are laser sintered together from layered powder, then polished in a ceramic tumbler which also helps remove excess powder from voids and cavities.
The silver, brass and bronze parts are not technically printed, they're cast using the lost wax method. It's the wax models that are printed. They are then finished by removing sprues, polishing and/or plating.
The stainless steel material starts out in a very similar way to the plastic material with a powder being glued together to form an overall shape. The object is then heated in a kiln to burn away the glue and fuse the stainless particles together. At the same time the object is infused with bronze to fill the glue voids. It's not really a suitable material for torches as it's resolution isn't quite good enough but it's quite useful for other things.


So what have I created using 3D printing so far.......


My first attempt at a printed torch was to be a AAA based around the same architecture as a brass light i'd machined previously, which was itself built around the internals from a cheap MXDL torch.









To test the design before i went for the expense of having one printed in silver, i redesigned the model slightly so it could be printed in plastic, with a copper contact that could be installed into the body to complete the circuit that would have been made by the brass body of my previous version.









Although these prototypes proved that a torch host could be 3D printed i realised i didn't like the design as it looked too conventional and in no way took advantage of 3D printing's ability to make shapes that couldn't be achieved any other way.
I therefore set about redesigning the AAA light. Meanwhile i considered that the high cost of silver would be let down rather by the low performance internals I had designed the light for, so i also set about designing a high performance light that could make the most of silver's excellent thermal properties.
This light turned into my 'Ag Torch'.

















Specs:
Full sterling silver body construction with 5mm of silver behind the LED,
Gold plated brass bezel and tail rings,
XM-L U2 on copper MCPCB from LED-Tech.de,
Carclo 10003 20mm optic,
3 Amp 8xAMC7135 driver from Illumination Supply, set to l/m/h,
AW IMR16340,
McClicky tail switch with extra spring behind the silver switch cover,
Six 6x2mm tritium vials in the switch cover.
The torch gets close to being too hot to hold within a minute which i suppose just shows how much heat isn't being moved away from the LED by other torches with the same components.


The next version of my 3D printed AAA torch turned out to be a little more interesting.









Having decided that i was happy with this new design i pressed ahead with a silver version.









It could do with a better polish (which Shapeways now offer as a service) but overall i really like it.
I decided that it needed a proper LED so i built a direct drive copper pill with an XP-G R5 on a ceramic MCPCB and aspheric lens.





I liked the silver one so much so that i also had a gold plated brass one made.









This is where i've got to with 3D printing torches so far.






I have also experimented with 3D printing some torch related parts and accessories; including heatsinks, switches, tail shrouds and diffusers, for both my torches and some production models.

Brass V10R heat-sinks with tritium holes.
This was a bit of a failed experiment but not entirely. Installing tritium into the heat-sinks of the Sunwayman V10R Ti and Ti+ is of course quite a popular mod but quite an expensive thing to get done by a professional modder. I was therefore asked by a client of mine whether 3D printing could allow a heat-sink to be made with tritium holes pre-formed and these are the results:





the version above is in bronze and can take 20 of the 2x6mm tritium vials. The biggest problem with this project is that the threads still need machining, which is difficult as the heat-sink itself isn't perfectly round so centering it into a lathe chuck is very difficult. I had this made in bronze as Shapeways had an discount on the material at the time but from my research i concluded that it's thermal properties are pretty awful and unsuitable for use as a heatsink, being only slightly better of thermal transfer than titanium.  





The version below is in brass and can take 20 of the 2x8mm tritium vials. Although not as good as brass can be, the brass alloy Shapeways use should have reasonably good thermal properties and be suitable for heat-sink applications as a valid upgrade.  





The version below is also in brass but with no tritium holes, so was designed be be as efficient a heat-sink as possible, which realistically is a bit pointless as the thermal path between the LED and heat-sink involves a lot of titanium and therefore a rather large bottle-neck.  





I realised that the hassle of having to machine parts of the printed heat-sink out-weighs any advantage gained. It would probably be easier and cheaper to completely machine a new heat-sink from brass including the drilled tritium holes.  


My 10 amp reverse clicky switch for Solarforce tailcaps.
This is a project to construct a higher current handling clicky switch for 6P architecture lights. The switch has been sized to fit snugly into a Solarforce S1 tailcap and be secured in place with the Solarforce aluminium retaining ring. However the basic design should be able to be altered to match the McClicky switch profile and perhaps other similar switches.



 



Renders of my original 'Tofty Switch 0', which has gone through a number of alterations to become the finished 'Tofty Switch 1' shown below. 





A number of switches have been sent out into the BLF community for beta testing and small scale switch production will begin soon, so long as the testing feedback does not flag up any serious problems.


Diffuser for Maratac, iTP/Olight AAA lights.







Although not strictly torches i've also come up with some nice little 3D printed tritium lanterns.


















I really think 3D printing's great; i don't have to do anything except create a 3D model that conforms to the desired materials physical limitations, upload it, pay for one to be made then sit back and wait for it to be delivered. It's the future and i'm all for it being that simple.

I will continue to update and modify this post there appropriate.


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## Mattaus (Jan 8, 2014)

Nice guide. Should help a few people understand the pro's and con's of 3D printing in it's current form and how we can best use it for flashlight related applications. I always though the thermal and electrical properties would be a fairly limiting factor for lighting applications, though I'm sure that situation will improve over time.


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## precisionworks (Jan 8, 2014)

Nice review, thanks for taking the time to put it together. Why don't you list some of the items for sale under "Custom B/S/T" ... the trit fobs should sell like hotcakes, especially the double helix in silver.


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## netprince (Jan 8, 2014)

Very interesting work. I have always wanted to try something with 3d printing. Can you give some getting started references? What software do you like for the models?


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## calipsoii (Jan 8, 2014)

Awesome write up Tofty! Is that a wee dog's paw I see on that final lantern? Also, BLF got test tailswitches before CPF did?!? :tinfoil:


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## StarHalo (Jan 8, 2014)

Here comes the second era of custom flashlights..

Loving the ultra-lightweight look of the Ag Torch, now if it could become the Mg Torch..


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## kuksul08 (Jan 8, 2014)

Great write-up!

I once tried making RC car parts out of extruded ABS 3D printing. Yeah, didn't work one bit. The SLA type are FAR better. Have you ever used FineLine prototyping? Prices are out of this world, but the quality is insane. Like, amazing surface finishes with little to no finishing.


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## HarryN (Jan 9, 2014)

Thank you for the great pictures, examples, and explanation.

I am just curious, how does the cost of printing compare with having a machine shop make the part in qty 1 vs 100 ? I can definitely see this for proto work, but I wonder at what point the cost of having the part printed + casting starts hitting the price of having one machined ?


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## wquiles (Jan 10, 2014)

Outstanding - great writeup !!!

3D printing definitely has a lot of potential and will get better and better


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## Tofty (Jan 10, 2014)

Mattaus said:


> Nice guide. Should help a few people understand the pro's and con's of 3D printing in it's current form and how we can best use it for flashlight related applications. I always though the thermal and electrical properties would be a fairly limiting factor for lighting applications, though I'm sure that situation will improve over time.



Thanks Matt, i think there's still a great deals to expand upon but at least it's a start. As for thermal and electrical limitations; that's something that will need to be kept an eye on as directly laser sintered metals become more available. Perhaps they will be just as good as their billet equivalents, but if not then it will need to be taken account of.




precisionworks said:


> Nice review, thanks for taking the time to put it together. Why don't you list some of the items for sale under "Custom B/S/T" ... the trit fobs should sell like hotcakes, especially the double helix in silver.



Thanks a lot, you're right i should put some of the lanterns up for sale here. The reason i haven't yet is my lack of a bulk tritium supplier, but things have changed recently so i'll certainly consider doing putting something up.




netprince said:


> Very interesting work. I have always wanted to try something with 3d printing. Can you give some getting started references? What software do you like for the models?



Cheers, i use Solidworks to create my models but do most of my 2D drawing in AutoCAD then transfer them across simply because i prefer the AutoCAD drawing interface than the one in Solidworks.
Free software like Sketchup will allow the creation of perfectly good models although i'm not sure if it supports the creation of complex features like threads. If you wanted to try using Shapeways then i would suggest creating some very simple 3D objects and try uploading them onto the Shapeways website to get a feel for doing so and what options are available. The stl. file format seems to be the standard format preferred by printing companies and i believe Sketchup will export to this format. From there you can try more complex and elaborate models and see what will and won't work in terms of printability. Shapeways now have a clever automated graphical material thickness analysis feature that can be used after uploading models, which highlights possible problem areas of your models if they are too thin for printing in specific materials.




calipsoii said:


> Awesome write up Tofty! Is that a wee dog's paw I see on that final lantern? Also, BLF got test tailswitches before CPF did?!? :tinfoil:



Thanks, the paw print is the logo of Paw Paw's Knife Shop who asked me to design that tritium lantern for them. I believe they are for sale over on Blade forum. As for BLF i'm not entirely sure why it happened that way around but i decided to collect feedback from just one group rather than two simply to maintain my sanity, i'd get to confused otherwise. It also means i will have a fully tested and working product to sell here straight off the bat.




StarHalo said:


> Here comes the second era of custom flashlights..
> Loving the ultra-lightweight look of the Ag Torch, now if it could become the Mg Torch..



Indeed, i wait to see how things change.
Thanks, i think the Ag torch needed some trimming down, otherwise it would have been monstrously heavy as well as completely unaffordable (not that it wasn't anyway).
I have designed a magnesium torch, even bought all the parts needed but i've been far too lazy recently and haven't got round to making it yet. Soon i keep promising myself, soon.....




kuksul08 said:


> Great write-up!
> 
> I once tried making RC car parts out of extruded ABS 3D printing. Yeah, didn't work one bit. The SLA type are FAR better. Have you ever used FineLine prototyping? Prices are out of this world, but the quality is insane. Like, amazing surface finishes with little to no finishing.



I've been told that putting extruded ABS parts in boiling acetone helps fuse the model and gives the surface a smooth finish. It's still probably nut structurally sound though so and as you say the stereolithography formed parts are generally more suitable. I hadn't heard of FineLine before but their service looks very impressive, i won't even bother to ask for a quote though, i can only imagine how depressing an act that would be.




HarryN said:


> Thank you for the great pictures, examples, and explanation.
> 
> I am just curious, how does the cost of printing compare with having a machine shop make the part in qty 1 vs 100 ? I can definitely see this for proto work, but I wonder at what point the cost of having the part printed + casting starts hitting the price of having one machined ?



I supose that depends on material but generally i would say 3D printing only becomes worth it if it's able to achieve something machining cannot. If there is a comparable printable material available to the material chosen to be machined then i'd say a quantity somewhere from 2 to 5 units would give machining a definite price advantage in a back-to-back test. This is just a guess and much depends on what mood you catch the machinists in and how much other work is coming in as to how attractive the price they offer you is. Also there are factors such as size, resolution and accuracy limitations which will plague 3D printing for some time to come.




wquiles said:


> Outstanding - great writeup !!!
> 
> 3D printing definitely has a lot of potential and will get better and better



Thanks a lot, i'll try and keep this thread as up to date as possible.


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## precisionworks (Jan 10, 2014)

Give me a telephone call at the number on my website and I may be able to hook you up with a very competitive priced tritium supplier.

Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk


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## Mr Floppy (Jan 15, 2014)

Tofty said:


> Free software like Sketchup will allow the creation of perfectly good models although i'm not sure if it supports the creation of complex features like threads. If you wanted to try using Shapeways then i would suggest creating some very simple 3D objects and try uploading them onto the Shapeways website to get a feel for doing so and what options are available. The stl. file format seems to be the standard format preferred by printing companies and i believe Sketchup will export to this format.



It will but you do need the stl extension. As for creating threads in SketchUp, there is also a very manual way to do it. I find SketchUp not that easy to use but can I suggest using Blender? It is a free and open source project, native stl support as well as other formats that Shapeways can use. I moved to Blender from 3DS and Maya and it was not that hard, and I'm pretty crap at using modelling software anyway. Shapeways has tutorials for using Blender too.

I've got a design for a E01 to L3 L10 adapter in the works but I'm wondering if I should start simpler. For a start, shipping is $19 per pop so might have to dive straight into it!


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## precisionworks (Jan 18, 2014)

Reading these threads always costs me money ... I just placed an order with Shapeways for the Tritium Lantern 2A in polished silver (looks like a double helix). Then it took a while to find the 22.5x3 mm green trit that cost less than an arm & a leg, finally found eBay item 290947485427. It's a gift for someone special & I'm eager to see your beautiful creation.

You really should list these on CPF, maybe under _Custom Titanium & Exotic Metals Flashlights Buy/Sell/Trade_ although that may not be the correct area - check with a moderator first to make sure.


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## Tofty (Jan 22, 2014)

precisionworks said:


> Give me a telephone call at the number on my website and I may be able to hook you up with a very competitive priced tritium supplier.
> 
> Reading these threads always costs me money ... I just placed an order with Shapeways for the Tritium Lantern 2A in polished silver (looks like a double helix). Then it took a while to find the 22.5x3 mm green trit that cost less than an arm & a leg, finally found eBay item 290947485427. It's a gift for someone special & I'm eager to see your beautiful creation.
> 
> You really should list these on CPF, maybe under _Custom Titanium & Exotic Metals Flashlights Buy/Sell/Trade_ although that may not be the correct area - check with a moderator first to make sure.



Thanks, i've found a supplier in the UK that can supply with a limited number of vials for a reasonably good price but i'll definitely give you a ring when i wish to increase my output and range of available colours.

Sorry about that but cheers for the order, i hope the person you bought it for likes it. Polished silver is my favourite finish and it's more hard wearing than you might expect as well.
I can't understand why the US NRC (nuclear regulatory commission) won't lift restrictions on the sale and purchase of tritium vials. It's not illegal but the number of hoops they try and demand you jump through for something so innocuous seems like bureaucracy for the sake of it.
I'll have some tritium lanterns up on the marketplace in a few hours: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/forumdisplay.php?108-WTS-Other-Personal (this is where all the other tritium things are sold)




Mr Floppy said:


> It will but you do need the stl extension. As for creating threads in SketchUp, there is also a very manual way to do it. I find SketchUp not that easy to use but can I suggest using Blender? It is a free and open source project, native stl support as well as other formats that Shapeways can use. I moved to Blender from 3DS and Maya and it was not that hard, and I'm pretty crap at using modelling software anyway. Shapeways has tutorials for using Blender too.
> 
> I've got a design for a E01 to L3 L10 adapter in the works but I'm wondering if I should start simpler. For a start, shipping is $19 per pop so might have to dive straight into it!



I've never used Blender so i could comment personally but since you have recommend it i will add it to the post in the next update.

As for the adapter; i'm not sure such a thing could be 3D printed as both the adapter thickness and thread pitch will be too fine.
Which material were you planning to make the final version out of?
My attempts at cutting the threads on the printed V10R heatsinks taught me to avoid trying to do something similar if at all possible due to the difficulty of proper centering but it could be done with care
I'm assuming you mean to use the E01 body and L10 head although there would be some merit in doing it the other way around also.


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## precisionworks (Jan 22, 2014)

Tofty said:


> ...
> I can't understand why the US NRC (nuclear regulatory commission) won't lift restrictions on the sale and purchase of tritium vials. It's not illegal but the number of hoops they try and demand you jump through for something so innocuous seems like bureaucracy for the sake of it ...



Don't you know that trits are a danger to self & others ... seems like someone calculated 5,000,000 trit vials are needed to reach a fissile mass. Roughly $50M USD. Someone intent on making a bomb would certainly find a cheaper way like stealing it from a nuke power plant. 

The rest of the world hasn't figured out how dangerous they are


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## Mr Floppy (Jan 22, 2014)

Tofty said:


> As for the adapter; i'm not sure such a thing could be 3D printed as both the adapter thickness and thread pitch will be too fine.
> Which material were you planning to make the final version out of?
> My attempts at cutting the threads on the printed V10R heatsinks taught me to avoid trying to do something similar if at all possible due to the difficulty of proper centering but it could be done with care
> I'm assuming you mean to use the E01 body and L10 head although there would be some merit in doing it the other way around also.



It's going to be E01 head to L10 body but yes, I was concerned that the threads would be too fine for 3D printing as well. Raw brass was what I wanted to use with the option of cutting threads after printing much like your V10R heat sink. In fact, the design I have is similar to your V10R heat sink, without the tritium holes of course. The lip where the E01 head has to touch the brass is probably the next concern as it has to quite thin so that the AA nipple can touch the E01 though the hole.


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## Tofty (Jan 27, 2014)

Mr Floppy said:


> It's going to be E01 head to L10 body but yes, I was concerned that the threads would be too fine for 3D printing as well. Raw brass was what I wanted to use with the option of cutting threads after printing much like your V10R heat sink. In fact, the design I have is similar to your V10R heat sink, without the tritium holes of course. The lip where the E01 head has to touch the brass is probably the next concern as it has to quite thin so that the AA nipple can touch the E01 though the hole.



So an E01 with a much longer runtime, do you know how many days it should go for?
To be fair, if you have to cut or even just re-cut the threads, which will almost certainly need to be done on a lathe then i would be inclined to just do the whole thing on a lathe if possible.
The economics of 3D printing fall down if there are too many other machining or manufacturing steps needed after printing.


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## Mr Floppy (Jan 27, 2014)

Tofty said:


> So an E01 with a much longer runtime, do you know how many days it should go for?
> To be fair, if you have to cut or even just re-cut the threads, which will almost certainly need to be done on a lathe then i would be inclined to just do the whole thing on a lathe if possible.
> The economics of 3D printing fall down if there are too many other machining or manufacturing steps needed after printing.



I've run a simple test on the E01 with an AA by putting it and a light meter in a box and then checking it manually. I started to check it after 24 hours and sure enough, it was still in regulation after 26 hours. I had to go to work but when I got home it looked like it went into moon mode. So somewhere between 26 and 34 hours. I didn't do the extra moon mode run time. When I get my light sensor and raspberry pi set up, I'll do a proper test with a run time graph (sans volt meter as still investigating options for the Pi). 

I wanted to do the whole thing on a CNC lathe but the local prices were more than using these guys. I have a friend who is a plumber and he's offered to cut the threads for me. Not sure how he does it though as he cuts the thread on the job without a lathe so I'm not so sure how fine be can do it.


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## precisionworks (Jan 28, 2014)

Mr Floppy said:


> ... I have a friend who is a plumber and he's offered to cut the threads for me. Not sure how he does it though as he cuts the thread on the job without a lathe so I'm not so sure how fine be can do it.



Plumbers use tools that cut NPT & that's a coarse pitch tapered thread. The most popular pipe threading lathes are the Ridgid Power Threading Machines. If that's what your friend has it will eat your light like a piece of candy 



> I wanted to do the whole thing on a CNC lathe ...


A CNC lathe is nice if you need to produce a quantity of parts but a manual lathe will run the part just as accurately & that eliminates the CNC set up & changeover charge. Whether CNC or manual the shop will need to build a fixture to hold the part without damage, figure $75 for that. Actual threading would run $25-$50. 

I don't think anyone on CPF does this kind of work but maybe I'm forgetting someone.


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## PEU (Jan 28, 2014)

Im itching to pull the trigger on this one: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/fsl/pegasus-touch-laser-sla-3d-printer-low-cost-high-q

Examples show far better resolution than average DLP. 

Comments? I have only 5 days left to decide


Pablo


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## wquiles (Jan 29, 2014)

PEU said:


> Im itching to pull the trigger on this one: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/fsl/pegasus-touch-laser-sla-3d-printer-low-cost-high-q
> 
> Examples show far better resolution than average DLP.
> 
> ...



I agree that the examples show a lot more detail/sophistication than the average DLP stuff. But this is just another stepping stone in the progress/roadmap - after this one, it is likely more laser-based units will come, which will bring the price even further down, and the technology is progressing by leaps and bounds - very fast. I would be afraid of spending $2K and it becoming obsolete in 6-12 months. Do you think you can fairly easily re-sell it to buy the next one?


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## PEU (Jan 30, 2014)

If I were there in the states I would already purchased it, Im trying to fine tune the logistics of bringing a 45 pounds crate to Argentina at a reasonable price. If I manage to do that then I can work with it and if needed resell it for a profit nodoubtsabboudit 

My current calculations estimate cost at my door including (non recoverable) taxes at about $4k for the machine+shipping.


Pablo


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## Tofty (Jan 31, 2014)

PEU said:


> Im itching to pull the trigger on this one: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/fsl/pegasus-touch-laser-sla-3d-printer-low-cost-high-q
> Examples show far better resolution than average DLP.
> Comments? I have only 5 days left to decide
> Pablo



It looks like a really nice printer at a fair price. If i did more prototype work (or lived in the US) then i'd find such a thing really useful and consider going for it.

However as wquiles says it may become outdated quicker than you might think.
I've been told that most of the patents held for SLA (stereolithograph)and DLS (direct laser sintering) technology run out over the next couple of years which should cause an explosion of well priced, cutting edge printers for both domestic and industrial purposes, for both plastics and metals. I wouldn't be surprised if the competition has already developed their next generation printers and are just waiting to be able to release them.
I'm hoping that this means that places like Shapeways can lower their prices and offer for varied material choices, especially with metals and/or multi-material DLS printers can become a real domestic option.


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## PEU (Jan 31, 2014)

There is always something better just around the corner...


Pablo


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## wquiles (Jan 31, 2014)

PEU said:


> There is always something better just around the corner...
> 
> 
> Pablo




Carbon Fiber baby !!!
http://www.gizmag.com/markforged-mark-one-carbon-fiber-3d-printer/30642/?utm_source=Gizmag+Subscribers&utm_campaign=3b49cb7696-UA-2235360-4&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_65b67362bd-3b49cb7696-90027582


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## precisionworks (Jan 31, 2014)

The silver trit lantern & the large trit both arrived today. The lantern is absolutely beautiful, especially with the trit inside. I'll try to post an image soon.


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## PEU (Feb 7, 2014)

Trigger was pulled  now the waiting game begins...


Pablo


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## wquiles (Feb 7, 2014)

PEU said:


> Trigger was pulled ....



For which one? The Laser one?


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## PEU (Feb 8, 2014)

Yes, this one: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/fsl/pegasus-touch-laser-sla-3d-printer-low-cost-high-q/posts


Pablo


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## wquiles (Feb 9, 2014)

PEU said:


> Yes, this one: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/fsl/pegasus-touch-laser-sla-3d-printer-low-cost-high-q/posts
> 
> 
> Pablo



Yup, that was the laser one I though you meant. You have to please keep us posted. Start your own thread when you get it, and walk us through the whole thing


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## KITROBASKIN (Feb 10, 2014)

wquiles said:


> Yup, that was the laser one I though you meant. You have to please keep us posted. Start your own thread when you get it, and walk us through the whole thing



Yes Please: beautiful

Can anyone here afford the machine that made this? http://www.gizmag.com/3d-printed-titanium-bicycle-frame/30760/


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## precisionworks (Mar 26, 2014)

3x22.5 trit in sterling silver trit lantern. Vial sealed at bottom with Norland. UV lighting provided by UVP Blak-Ray B-100


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## Mr Floppy (Mar 26, 2014)

precisionworks said:


> 3x22.5 trit in sterling silver trit lantern.



Nice, looks like something out of the sci-fi movies


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## precisionworks (Mar 27, 2014)

Mr Floppy said:


> Nice, looks like something out of the sci-fi movies


Thank you, it's a birthday gift for son #1 who already has a trit or two in different devices. The 100 watt UVP light from 6" away is a little close for a image that looks actual but I liked the way it lit up the Norland at the end of the lantern.

Detail on the 3D printing is incredible. The polished surface contrasts well with the as printed sidewalls.


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