# Zebralight SC50w first impressions



## uplite (Apr 3, 2010)

So I _finally_ opened the little box received earlier today. Distracted by the iPad launch, and new baby in progress (not mine...cousin...currently 5 minutes between contractions). :twothumbs

Anyway...I have the *Zebralight SC50w* in hand. 

Here's a quick pic next to the Zebralight H501w (which I use about 80% of the time, for task lighting), and the Quark 123w (which I use the other 20% of the time, for throw):







I bought the SC50w to hopefully replace the Quark 123w for night hiking. The side switch should let me turn it on/off frequently for trail finding on the move, in a natural underhand grip. Time will tell if this works as expected. 

First impressions...

*Packaging* -- Small cardboard box. Nothing fancy. I ordered my H501w from a dealer and it came in a very sleek retail package...which I promptly threw away.  So...I'm happy that Zebralight does not waste $$ on fancy retail packaging for direct internet orders. :thumbsup:

*Accessories* -- Headband with silicone holder, and 2 spare o-rings. I doubt I'll ever use this light on my head, but it's nice to have a top-quality spare headband for the H501. :thumbsup:

*Size & weight* -- Almost exactly the same as Quark 123, even though this light takes AA cells. Length 3.15". Weight 51g with lithium AA cell, vs 53g for Quark 123 with lithium CR123A cell.

*Durability* -- I was expecting "ultralight" construction like the H501...but no...this is a much beefier handheld light. The tube appears to be twice as thick (.046" vs .023" measured at the tail). Anodize is standard Zebralight olive drab, a little bit more grain than my 501. It feels like I could drop it on river stones without chipping. We'll see this summer. 

*Fit & finish* -- Superb. The machining is impeccable. Obviously these lights are milled, not lathed like 90% of the lights on CPF. The threads & o-ring came pre-greased. Threads are about twice as long as the H501 (6 turns vs 3 turns).

*Beam profile* -- A little bit floodier than the Quark 123w (XPE Q3-5A). The reflector is smaller, so the spill and hotspot are both a tiny bit larger = more diffuse. I was hoping for a tighter beam.  But if you want more flood, or if you want more throw compared to an XPG light, this will work nicely.

*Beam tint* -- At first glance, same as the Quark 123w (XPE Q3-5A). On closer examination, the Zebralight (XPE Q4-5B) is very very slightly more green. Or the 5A Quark is very very slightly more purple. Compared to other lights though, they are identical. 

That's all I have for now. I'll tru to post more pics post-baby. Also some pics after I replace the clip with my own wrist-lanyard loop.

Questions and comments welcome. 

-Jeff


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## hazna (Apr 3, 2010)

does the switch feel like it could easily accidentally turn on?

Any chance of beam shots?


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## uplite (Apr 4, 2010)

hazna said:


> does the switch feel like it could easily accidentally turn on?


IMO...no. Here is a comparison:

The Zebralight H501 switch can be turned on by pressing the end of the light against a flat surface. I _always_ lock out my H501 by turning the tailcap ~1/8 turn before putting it away in my pocket or a bag.

The SC50 switch is deeply recessed. You cannot turn it on by pressing the switch against a flat surface. However you _can_ turn it on by pressing a narrow object (key or pen or edge of iphone) against the switch. I will lock the tailcap of this light only when I pack it in a bag. I will leave it unlocked in a pocket by itself.



hazna said:


> Any chance of beam shots?


Maybe in a few days. No promises. I've never done beamshots, and I only have a Quark 123w and a couple of dive lights to compare against. The Quark is most relevant.

I can tell you though...the beam is _roughly_ the same as an XPE Quark. Slightly larger spill and _very_ slightly larger hotspot. In my initial tests with the Quark 123w XPE high (~70 lumens spec?) and Zebralight SC50w high (~100 lumens spec?) the ZL beam was wider and slightly dimmer. 

Just me...I wish the beam was tighter. But I understand that lots of folks prefer a semi-floody beam in a handheld light. :shrug:

Hopefully I'll have a chance to take some more pics soon. Camera in hand has no aperture or shutter control. I can lock the ISO and exposure comp and white balance and take a comparison picture of 2 lights though. 

-Jeff


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## NonSenCe (Apr 4, 2010)

picture of the wrist lanyard loop?

and actual measurements of the different parts of the light. the slimmest part of the body and the head etc. they say dimaeter is this or that.. but that likely is from the thickest spot and i wish to know the smallest too.. (curious about these things.. or do i need to wait for my light to arrive after couple weeks and do the measurements myself.)

how about the operation setup.. is the ui easy to master?

how is the baby and mom doing? 

how about the threads toughness.. in my h501s i always considered them little too fine and that makes me feel like they are easy to strip or get mangled if not screwing precicely.


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 4, 2010)

NonSenCe said:


> how about the operation setup.. is the ui easy to master?
> 
> how is the baby and mom doing?



If you own 501's the UI is the same. The only difference is you have light level choices on each level. Whereas the 501 only had the high/strobe option.

So click on for high, hold to cycle low-med-high-release to hold at the level of choosing & fast double-click to switch between light output of each level.


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## carl (Apr 4, 2010)

Thanks for the new thread on this light. And the comparison pic too. But as you say, definitely, the wife/kid come first.

For around the house use, which one is more comfortable and pointable, the 501 or the sc50?

Bravo to Zebralight for giving us a nice standard front-mounted switch (So tired of tail switches - how many of us actually goes around the house with the light in the "tactical" or "cigar-hold" position anyway?).


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## davidt1 (Apr 4, 2010)

Thanks for the review. Good stuff!


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## defloyd77 (Apr 5, 2010)

carl said:


> how many of us actually goes around the house with the light in the "tactical" or "cigar-hold" position anyway?).



I for one do, the side switch is one of the very few things that I dislike about these lights.

Great review and pics BTW.


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## uplite (Apr 5, 2010)

NonSenCe said:


> picture of the wrist lanyard loop?


Here is my first attempt at the lanyard loop, using some cheap & easy 18-gauge galvanized steel wire:











I tried a piece of 3/64" music wire first, but quickly realized that I lack the tools & technique to bend a very small radius in this stuff (music wire is _incredibly_ strong). So I cut a piece of 18-gauge off the spool and used that instead.

It's actually quite strong, plus it is more flexible than music wire, so the screws squeeze it down very well. I think this will do the trick. Will strength test it to be sure. 



NonSenCe said:


> actual measurements of the different parts of the light. the slimmest part of the body and the head etc.


Slimmest ... 0.707"
Bezel ... 0.828"
Tailcap ... 0.830"

The thickest part is the clip mount. With my wire loop and screws, it measures 0.954" from the top of the screws to the back of the tube. The stock clip is a tiny bit thinner. It's a very nice clip btw, if you prefer clip carry.



NonSenCe said:


> how is the baby and mom doing?


Both great, thanks for asking. Big girl, 9lb 2oz. Quick labor, less than 2 hours. All natural, no inducers or painkillers or scalpels. Yay. :thumbsup:



NonSenCe said:


> how about the threads toughness.. in my h501s i always considered them little too fine and that makes me feel like they are easy to strip or get mangled if not screwing precicely.


I know what you mean. I am always very careful to press the H501 tailcap whenever I screw it on or off, taking tension off the spring so the threads do not grind.

The SC50 tailcap feels much more solid & smooth.

On close inspection, it looks like the threads have the same pitch. I think the difference is that the SC50 body has about _twice_ as much thread as the H501, and it starts earlier on the tube, so the spring is not so compressed/forceful at the beginning of the threads.

Here is a comparison pic, SC50 left and H501 right:






You can also see in this pic that the SC50 tube is twice as thick, and the o-ring is 2-3 times as thick, as the H501.

I don't know why the H501 has such short threads. The tube obviously has more room. And the tailcap has 5 or 6 turns of thread. :thinking: Anyway, the SC50 does not have this problem. :thumbsup:

BTW, the _head_ of the SC50 also seems very robust. It has a surprisingly thick o-ring between the reflector and window:







-Jeff


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## uplite (Apr 5, 2010)

carl said:


> For around the house use, which one is more comfortable and pointable, the 501 or the sc50?


Well...they are totally different lights. 

The H501 is an even flood light, 80° spread. It covers everything that you can reach in front of you. So you don't need to hold it and point it. Just put it on your head (or around your neck, or clipped to your pocket, etc) and rotate it to illuminate your general task area. No hands.

The SC50 is a concentrated light, with about 8° hotspot. That hotspot is meant to be pointed at something, which is best done with the light in your hand. Or maybe in your mouth, if you need a concentrated beam but your hands are full. 

I guess you could say that the H501 is most "comfortable" (since you don't have to hold it) and the SC50 is most "pointable" (since it has a concentrated beam).

-Jeff


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## Zendude (Apr 5, 2010)

Very nice review of a very nice light!:thumbsup: I've been impressed by ZL's innovative headlamp designs from the beginning and their flashlights are no exception.

Question: Is it unusual to have the press fitting directly on the lens? Couldn't water migrate behind it?


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## pc_light (Apr 5, 2010)

uplite said:


> Questions and comments welcome.
> -Jeff


 
(Jeff, I hope you will forgive my piggy-backing on your thread, I figure it was preferable to starting a separate "first impressions" thread.)

The Easter bunny brought me a little brown box as well , ditto for me on most of Uplite's first impressions.

FWIW, I'll add my two cents on how the SC50w compares to my Quark MiNi-AAw. Interestingly compared to Uplite's regular Quark, I found the SC50w beam tighter than the Quark MiNi-AAw.

Here are some side-by-side beam shots of SC50w on left and Mini-AAw on right. From top to bottom, both on Low-Med-High.





It is difficult to see in the photo at 3-ft from wall but the SC50w's hotspot is made up of an intense center within the larger hotspot, whereas the Mini-AAw's hotspot was slightly smaller and more uniform throughout. At distances beyond the 3-ft wall shots, that translated to the SC50w appearing to have a relatively tighter/brighter hotspot when compared to the wider/uniform hotspot of the MiNi-AAw.

BTW, the above were taken with the lights running on Sanyo NiMH's. There were slight, if any, differences in brightness using NiMH, Alkaline, or Lithium (runtimes are a separate matter); as expected with a boost circuit. However as indicated by ZL the SC50w on a 14500 cell was noticeable brighter.

Here are the beam shots on various cells from left-to-right or top-to-bottom, respectively. The 14500 cell on bottom is visably brighter.





The main attraction of the SC50w for me was the side-switch, in this regard I find it well positioned with a nice solid feel. With regard to using the switch, my personal preference for UI would have been for the default On setting to be user defined and/or "last-mode" memory, rather than High1.

Also, the SC50w body with it's crisp and sharp lines does have a drawback, in particular around the swtch. I have already noticed that the sharp edges around the switch are actually resulting in some skin flaking off my thumb and accumulating as dust around the switch; a small matter (no pun intended).

All in all, a very nice pcoket light :thumbsup:.

pc_light


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 5, 2010)

Zendude said:


> Very nice review of a very nice light!:thumbsup: I've been impressed by ZL's innovative headlamp designs from the beginning and their flashlights are no exception.
> 
> Question: Is it unusual to have the press fitting directly on the lens? Couldn't water migrate behind it?



Actually it is wise on ZL's part. A consumer can't disassemble it & then incorrectly assemble it & create a problem that becomes a thread on a internet forum. 

Not if there is an o-ring behind the lens.


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 5, 2010)

This is a good showing of the differences between XP-E & XP-G emitters.



pc_light said:


> FWIW, I'll add my two cents on how the SC50w compares to my Quark MiNi-AAw. Interestingly compared to Uplite's regular Quark, I found the SC50w beam tighter than the Quark MiNi-AAw.
> 
> Here are some side-by-side beam shots of SC50w on left and Mini-AAw on right. From top to bottom, both on Low-Med-High.
> 
> ...


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## pc_light (Apr 5, 2010)

FroggyTaco said:


> This is a good showing of the differences between XP-E & XP-G emitters.


 
Hi Froggy, 

Although the currently selling QMiNi-AA does use the XP-G emitter, the two I compared were both warm/neutral XP-E's with the main difference being Tint (SC50w=5B; MiNi-AAw=5A; which does bear out with what I noticed with mine).

I did see in another thread where one vendor site is indicating the SC50w to be a Q4-5B, if correct, that would mean a slightly higher flux bin than the Q-MiNi-AA (Q3).

The higher flux of the emitter and/or the relatively smoother OP (and/or geometry) of the ZL reflector might account for the differences in hotspot that I see. 




That's my guess.

pc_light


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 5, 2010)

Oh yeah..I forgot they are both warm versions! Doh!


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## jblackwood (Apr 5, 2010)

uplite said:


> *Accessories* -- Headband with silicone holder, and 2 spare o-rings. I doubt I'll ever use this light on my head, but it's nice to have a top-quality spare headband for the H501. :thumbsup:



The holders are different. The one that comes with my SC50w is larger than my H501w's band. When I tried to slip it on, the H501w was too loose and I couldn't use it since ANY shock made it shift in position. Needless to say, the H501w's holder was too tight for the SC50w. I compared both SC50 and SC50w since I had both, but I figured the result would be the same since they use the same body. Never let it be said that I'm not thorough! :wave:

Oh yeah, if more people ran their businesses like Henry (RA lights) did, they wouldn't mess with a good design and the SC50 would keep the XP-E as their emitter. It provides good runtime and the same low low for both Ni-MH and 14500. There are tons of other, NON-side clicky lights that DO use an XP-G. If you prefer that kind of light (especially if it's only because of the emitter choice), please refrain from needlessly trashing a thread by repeatedly expressing your opinion against a light and just go get yourself one of the others that suits your needs. If your position is worth knowing, it shouldn't need repeating.

EDIT: Please disregard my words in red. I don't really believe in erasing things like this especially since someone's already quoted it. Either way, let it be known that I have, once again, frakked up!  I posted this in the wrong thread. I must have had sand in my . . . well, if you watch South Park, you know where I'm going with that. Either way, congrats again to the OP and to Zebralight for designing such a uniquely awesome light!


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## ky70 (Apr 5, 2010)

jblackwood said:


> ...There are tons of other, NON-side clicky lights that DO use an XP-G. If you prefer that kind of light (especially if it's only because of the emitter choice), please refrain from needlessly trashing a thread by repeatedly expressing your opinion against a light and just go get yourself one of the others that suits your needs. If your position is worth knowing, it shouldn't need repeating.



Was there a post deleted? After reading this entire thread, I have no clue who these comments are directed at.


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## jblackwood (Apr 5, 2010)

There were some comments about preferring the latest emitter and passing on this light because there's no XP-G in it. Reviewing the thread, it looks like either the person deleted those comments (likely) or I confused this thread with another (MUCH more likely). Either way, if no one has fessed up, I'll go back and amend my comments with an edit. 

To the OP, thanks for the nice little review and I love what you've done as far as the lanyard attachment. Kudos!


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## uplite (Apr 5, 2010)

Zendude said:


> Is it unusual to have the press fitting directly on the lens?


I dunno if the gasket-behind-lens design is unusual for these lights. It is different from my Q123, which has the o-ring in front of the lens.

This design is preferred for some diving lights because the water pressure on the lens creates a better seal as you go deeper. But the SC50 is obviously not a dive light. 

It's also possible that there is another gasket/oring underneath the bezel, in front of the lens. I wish the bezel was removeable for maintenance.




pc_light said:


> hope you will forgive my piggy-backing on your thread


The more the merrier!  This is your thread too. Thanks for the beamshots!




pc_light said:


> compared to Uplite's regular Quark, I found the SC50w beam tighter than the Quark MiNi-AAw


I think the difference is mostly due to the reflectors. The SC50 has a smaller/shallower reflector than the Q123. Is the MiNi AA reflector even smaller?

I would love to see a Zebralight that uses small TIR optic instead of reflector, for less spill and more throw. Or even better...a Zebralight with a choice of different optics: 5°, 10°, 20°, etc to match the intended use.

8° handheld plus 80° headlamp are a good start, but there are many more angles in between... :candle:




pc_light said:


> my personal preference for UI would have been for the default On setting to be user defined and/or "last-mode" memory, rather than High1


IMO the great thing about the zebra UI is that you can turn it on in the mode you want, no cycling thru modes. Quick-click High, slow-click Low, double-click Medium. 

"Last-mode" memory would change that predictability.

More user-defined settings sounds good to me, if ZL can hide the programming mode. That seems to be the trick. The more complicated the programming, the more difficult it should be to get into programming mode. Otherwise someone will complain that the light is too complicated. 

I think ZL has gone down the right path with instant access to three modes, plus double-click to fine-tune 2 of those modes. More options would be nice though. Especially the blinky mode. 2Hz is a good compromise, but I'd prefer to set it anywhere from once-every-30-seconds locator beacon (with many hours runtime) to 10Hz panic strobe.




FroggyTaco said:


> A consumer can't disassemble it & then incorrectly assemble it & create a problem that becomes a thread on a internet forum.


That makes sense...but personally...I would still prefer a light that can be disassembled.

I _hope_ that most of us who are motivated to break the loctite on a flashlight, also understand that we are breaking the warranty if we mess it up somehow.

But I will not intentionally submerge any light unless it is rated to 30+ meters depth..._or_ I can disassemble & seal the bezels myself.

The SC50 is an extremely tight & light design. I don't know if ZL could make the lens & switch bezels unscrewable without making them bigger and sloppier. But I would love to see a "flashaholic" version of this light that can be disassembled for cleaning & maintenance.




jblackwood said:


> The holders are different. The one that comes with my SC50w is larger


True. Actually...the SC50 holder seems large enough to hold my Q123. I bet this holder & headband would work _great_ for someone with a Quark Prism. :thumbsup:

Headband is the same as the H501 though. And my H501 came with two holders, black and glow. Now I can swap them without taking apart the headband. :thumbsup:




jblackwood said:


> To the OP, thanks for the nice little review and I love what you've done as far as the lanyard attachment. Kudos!


Thanks! It wasn't meant as a review. I bow down to reviewers like selfbuilt and HKJ who have a real methodology. :bow: But I appreciate the kudos. 


-Jeff


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## orangeglo (Apr 5, 2010)

Thx for the writeup. Would it be possible to get a shot of it attached to the headband? I was wondering how they rigged it.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Apr 5, 2010)

Thank you very much for the beamshots!

Question. Based on beamshots (outside and on the wall) of warm lights, the warm lights appeal to me. But ... my reaction to the photos of the SC50w using the alkaline and NiMH AA batteries is that the spill is dim. Is the (low-ish) level of brightness in the SC50w's spill typical of warm 1xAA/1xAAA alkaline/NiMH powered flashlights ?


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## pc_light (Apr 5, 2010)

MojaveMoon07 said:


> Question... Is the (low-ish) level of brightness in the SC50w's spill typical of warm 1xAA/1xAAA alkaline/NiMH powered flashlights ?


 
It may be my photos but it's true that the warm tinted emitters in question have slightly less brightness/flux than their generally available cool counterparts. For example, on alkalines the SC50 is rated 122 lm whereas the SC50w is rated 107 lm.

But on the basis of some threads/beamshots I've seen comparing the same light when available in warm and cool versions, the brightness (or lack thereof) of the warm spill appears to be more pronouced when white-wall hunting, than in real life use, particularly when outside.

FWIW, there are some CPF threads discussing something refered to as the "Kruithof curve", which relates to perception of colors under low-light luminance (e.g., the spill). Warm colors apparently render more naturally/pleasantly than dim cool tints. 

My opinion, if one needs absolute max output regardless of tint one should get the SC50. I got the SC50w, isn't it wonderful that we have a choice these days! :thumbsup:

pc_light


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## pc_light (Apr 5, 2010)

uplite said:


> IMO the great thing about the zebra UI is that you can turn it on in the mode you want, no cycling thru modes. Quick-click High, slow-click Low, double-click Medium.
> 
> "Last-mode" memory would change that predictability.
> -Jeff


 
Yeah predictability is exactly my problem. 

I've got the Quick-click for Hi working fine. My problem is with Low, occasionally my light will go from Low to Hi during a slow-click. Happens when I release from Slow-click (too soon), it jumps right to bright, which can be blinding when I'm expecting Low .

Don't know if it's my switch or what but that's been my my experience during the pass 2-days. It's not constant, just periodically, which spoils predictability for me.

Since I have so much trouble with the predicability of Slow-clicks, I've devised my own way to reach the levels I want. I 
- Quick-click once for Hi, 
- Quick-click twice for Med and 
- Quick-click thrice for Low!
Seems to work better for me this way. 

Also, in order to avoid the "flash" when Double-clicking to reach Med, I Slow-click and hold to ramp-up to Med.

I do like the side-clicky, it might be hard to go back to rear clickies after this.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Apr 5, 2010)

pc_light:





Thank you for explaining those things; I was unaware of all of that.


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## uplite (Apr 6, 2010)

orangeglo said:


> Thx for the writeup. Would it be possible to get a shot of it attached to the headband? I was wondering how they rigged it.


The SC30 product page has a picture on the headband:

http://www.zebralight.com/SC30-Flashlight-CR123-193Lm_p_18.html

It's the same basic setup as the other zebralights...a stretchy silicone holder with two loops for the light, and two slots for the adjustable elastic headband.

You can rotate the side-emitter lights like the H501 to direct the beam up/down exactly where you want it. This is especially nice if you wear the light around your neck, like I do for hiking. But the end-emitter lights cannot be aimed except by moving the headband or your head.

-Jeff


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## uplite (Apr 6, 2010)

pc_light said:


> My problem is with Low, occasionally my light will go from Low to Hi during a slow-click. Happens when I release from Slow-click (too soon), it jumps right to bright, which can be blinding when I'm expecting Low.


I had the same problem at first. The slow-click on my SC50 is a tiny bit slower than my H501. On the H501, I click & hold for about 1/2 second to jump to Low. On the SC50, I have to hold for almost a full second to jump to Low.

I wonder if they changed the timing in the microcontroller. I also noticed that the delay between clicking to turn off, and the light actually turning off, seems longer. Maybe 1/2 second.



> I do like the side-clicky, it might be hard to go back to rear clickies after this.


If I was forced to pick one, I would take the side clicky too.

I have a new preferred grip with the SC50. Call it "writer's grip". I hold the light like I would hold a pen or pencil, with index finger resting on the button. It feels _very_ precise. Even better than cigar grip. Fingers have much finer motor control than wrist or arm.

But the tail switch still has its place. I find that the side clicky takes a fraction of a second longer to find. A tail switch light like my Quark, I can flip into my hand and the switch is always in the same place, immediately. If I was a traffic cop or other "tactical" user, I would like that more.

-Jeff


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## carl (Apr 6, 2010)

uplite said:


> Well...they are totally different lights.
> 
> The H501 is an even flood light, 80° spread. It covers everything that you can reach in front of you. So you don't need to hold it and point it. Just put it on your head (or around your neck, or clipped to your pocket, etc) and rotate it to illuminate your general task area. No hands.
> 
> ...



Uplite,
thanks for your answer. And thanks to you, I may need to get both!


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## toby_pra (Apr 6, 2010)

Excellent review!


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## uplite (Apr 6, 2010)

Just noticed...I took this picture of the switch on Sunday but forgot to post it:






The switch is turned slightly towards the camera, so it looks a bit taller than it actually is, but you can still see how it is recessed in the body.

I tried to turn it on by pressing it _hard_ against my leg or hip. Nope. If this light is in a loose pants pocket by itself, it seems safe to leave the tailcap tightened. I would definitely lock it out in a bag though.

For scale...each cooling slot is 1.0 mm wide.

-Jeff


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## Misan (Apr 6, 2010)

*uplite* good review :thumbsup: but I really liked the solution with the lanyard loop (using some cheap & easy 18-gauge galvanized steel wire), and I think it very convenient


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## NonSenCe (Apr 9, 2010)

first impression: i like mine. sc50w (ordered it on saturday and arrived today friday.. across the ocean to north europe. VERY QUICK!)

the beam is nice and floody. JUST as i hoped it to be. a task light that is for little further distance than my h501w. i now can almost see myself carrying only them as my edcs. one for walking and looking in distance and other to use in close proximity. it could happen. even if i like my 47s lights alot.

the sideclicky OH YEAH! finally a decent light with cliky. the light felt "natural" the moment i took it. the shape and the length and ergonomics felt comfortable. easy to use the cliky. and its indeed slightly stiffer thna in h501. in very good way. it is convinient to use in old underhand grip and also in the pen grip with my forefinger operating the clicky. 

the ui. its pretty good. i would prefer that if i double clik it for the second mode set it would operate in that set until i would double click again. but very minor. as i know i will use the "main" modeset most of my time.. and only occasionally drop it to lowest output. 

the blinking strobe is rather slow so it works well as "alerting others" blinker. for me its much more useful than the fast disorienting strobe that h501 has. 

it feels strong and the body tube really looks like it could take some beating. workmanship looks good and ano perfect. even the different tinted tailcap looks good in my mind.. suble reminder that its the part you are intended to screw open to get to the battery. 

the light still felt like its very compact. only few mm longer than quark mini. 

the pocket clip could of been black. for more discreet look. or even duller gray the chromed clip draws attention in otherwise sleek muted coloerd light. (i am bored with black lights now.. i do want other ano colors.. natural grey like these is great)

not sure if i will be spoiled soon by using this sidecliky. and start to dislike tailbuttons. in the beginning i know i will be thumbing this lights butt-end often, until i get used to this "new" cliky location. 

now that i have played with it for couple hours.. i think i will upgrade my first impression to i REALLY like this one!


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## deuces (Apr 12, 2010)

A question for you guys. When running 14500, does the big gap between high and medium bother you?

sc50: 193 high, 38 medium
sc50w: 169 high, 33 medium


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## NonSenCe (Apr 12, 2010)

nope not me. 

i mostly use the lowest output. and if it is not enough the medium is plenty bright. (sometimes might be even too bright)

and if i need full blast on high i am looking for something in longer distance anyways where medium wouldnt be enough even if it was double the brightness. 

as it takes 3 to 4 times the output in lumens, for the range of the light to double and to appear twice as bright to the eye. thats why i think they are spaced ok. no need to spend extra lumens in medium mode if it really isnt that much brighter. (gives you more runtime too)

33lm times 4 =132lm to double bright, so that extra +30lm is just gravy


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## ky70 (Apr 12, 2010)

Anyone with the SC50 (or anyone that knows enough to figure out the math) have an estimate of runtimes using a 14500?

I orderd the SC50 cool on Friday (from illuminationgear.com) and the light will be delivered today (less than 2 full business days for free delivery is a shockingly fast turn-around time). I can't wait to get it!!


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## jason978 (Apr 12, 2010)

Is the sc50 supposed to NOT work at all when the battery runs down. I'm using AA NimH, sanyo and eneloops. I noticed that when the battery voltage drops to about 1.05 the light won't turn on at all at any level. Is that normal?


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## FroggyTaco (Apr 12, 2010)

Presumably yes because the electronics need a minimum amount of voltage to run. But since you are using rechargeables, this is a good thing so you don't over discharge your batteries.

I know my H501w did the same thing.


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## uplite (Apr 12, 2010)

NonSenCe said:


> sc50w...h501w...almost see myself carrying only them as my edcs. one for walking and looking in distance and other to use in close proximity


Yep, these 2 lights are a killer combination outdoors. Here is my night trail-running setup:






Last friday night I was hiking with a buddy on a narrow trail past dusk. Leader used the sc50 to scan ahead. Follower walked ~2m back with the h501 to provide an area flood light for both. Almost perfect. Two h501's would have been even better. 




NonSenCe said:


> i would prefer that if i double clik it for the second mode set it would operate in that set until i would double click again


I had to play with the modes for a while to figure this out:

*The sc50 remembers either low-Low (0.6 lumens) or low-Medium (18 lumens), but not both.*

For example:

1) Select lower-Low, turn the light off & back on...it remembers lower-Low.

2) Now select lower-Medium, hold the switch to cycle modes, and you have both lower-Low (0.6 lumen) and lower-Medium (18 lumen)...OK, as expected.

3) Now turn it off & on again...it remembers your lower-Medium choice, but the Low mode is reset to higher-Low (4.4 lumens).

4) Try the same sequence, but choose lower-Medium before you choose lower-Low...and the Medium mode will reset to higher-Medium (33 lumens).

I'm not sure if this is by design, or a bug in the controller programming. Turns out, it works great for my real-world usage so far. :shrug: 




NonSenCe said:


> the pocket clip could of been black. for more discreet look. or even duller gray the chromed clip draws attention in otherwise sleek muted coloerd light.


+1.

Shiny clip probably helps if you drop the light and have to find it outdoors. Otherwise it seems too flashy for these lights.

I bet you could brush the chrome with sandpaper to remove the shine. Maybe start with 200 grit. Plus replace the chrome screws with black screws. 




deuces said:


> When running 14500, does the big gap between high and medium bother you?


More levels would be nice, but it doesn't bother me.

IMO the 14500 High mode is either "show-off mode" or "gotta have max output mode". If efficiency is a concern, both NiMH rechargeables and Lithium primaries have more capacity than 14500s.

I wouldn't complain if zebralight added more programmable levels to these lights, though. 


-Jeff


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## mxrider32 (Apr 13, 2010)

Got my SC50w yesterday and I really like it. The switch feels awesome and the UI is great. It is plenty bright with a 14500. The modes are spaced fine. The memory thing is a bit confusing but uplite explained it well. I bent up a paper clip to make a lanyard hole in place of the pocket clip and have a small tritium fob hanging from it. The very low mode makes it perfect for night time trips to the bathroom. The tint is nice too. Overall I am impressed and will be holding onto this light. :twothumbs


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## hazna (Apr 15, 2010)

I got my sc50 today! Fastest shipping I've ever gotten from the USA. Thumbs up for illuminationgear:twothumbs

I like this light! It feels sturdy and well built. Love the side clicky. Tailstands well. Can't wait to try it with a 14500.

I can confirm the 'low/low or low/medium bug' described by uplite. Not a big deal for me to be honest. There is a preflash (flashes as a lower level) when turning directly to high. Once again not a big deal for me.

I will need to get used to 'click and hold' for low. Some times I miss it, and it comes on high if I don't hold it long enough. Or goes to medium if I hold it too long.

Okay I'm off the play around with it some more... taking it to the shower with me  Will post some picture later


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## ky70 (Apr 15, 2010)

hazna said:


> I got my sc50 today! Fastest shipping I've ever gotten from the USA. Thumbs up for illuminationgear:twothumbs


 
Congrats!! I got mine on Monday from illumination gear. I ordered on Friday around noon and had the light on Monday...less than 2 full business days (free shipping at that). So, I'm also a big fan if this vendor. It was my second order from these folks and communication and turnaround time has been great in both cases. Also, I've found them to have the lowest prices on Zebralight and Eagletac (with shipping and discount is factored in).



hazna said:


> I like this light! It feels sturdy and well built. Love the side clicky. Tailstands well. Can't wait to try it with a 14500.


 
It's a big difference in output on high using the 14500...you'll love it



hazna said:


> There is a preflash (flashes as a lower level) when turning directly to high. Once again not a big deal for me.


Are you quick single clicking to get into high? When I quick click for high, it opens up in high with no preflash.



hazna said:


> I will need to get used to 'click and hold' for low. Some times I miss it, and it comes on high if I don't hold it long enough. Or goes to medium if I hold it too long.


From off, three quick clicks access low mode (and 2 quick clicks access medium).


Desk shot of SC50 (camera phone pic though)...


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## hazna (Apr 16, 2010)

ky70 said:


> Are you quick single clicking to get into high? When I quick click for high, it opens up in high with no preflash.



Playing around with it some more... If you press lightly and very quickly there is no noticeable preflash. If you clicky it firmly or not as quickly, it will flash to a lower mode before going to high.


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## yatsunil (Apr 16, 2010)

hazna said:


> Playing around with it some more... If you press lightly and very quickly there is no noticeable preflash. If you clicky it firmly or not as quickly, it will flash to a lower mode before going to high.


 

On my SC30 which I believe has the same UI, I find that a very deliberate and firm Click-Hold-Release (as opposed to quick click-release) gets me to low mode with just one flicker/preflash.


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## uplite (Apr 16, 2010)

Just click and hold for 1 second (say "one mississippi") before releasing the button, and the light stays in low mode. No flashes. No flickers. Just low mode. 

When you click & release quickly, the light comes on in low mode (as soon as you press it) and then jumps to high mode (when you release it). This is not a "preflash" like the quark/fenix lights that flash max brightness before showing the low mode that you really wanted. :sick2: The zebralights just mode-step, from low to high, with a shortcut to high if you release the button quickly. :thumbsup:

fwiw I liked the 1/2 second "stay low" timing on my H501 better than the 1 second timing on my sc50. Not a big deal though. I think I have the hang of it now. 

-Jeff


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## ky70 (Apr 16, 2010)

yatsunil said:


> On my SC30 which I believe has the same UI, I find that a very deliberate and firm Click-Hold-Release (as opposed to quick click-release) gets me to low mode with just one flicker/preflash.


 
On the SC50, this same operation gets you low mode without any flicker/preflash. The click opens the light in low and the release after 1 second keeps it in low.


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## hazna (Apr 17, 2010)

I've taken a photo of it with some other lights for size comparison

Drake, SC50, fenix L1D, Ultrafire c3, MG L-mini II


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## swxb12 (Apr 17, 2010)

hazna said:


> I've taken a photo of it with some other lights for size comparison
> 
> Drake, SC50, fenix L1D, Ultrafire c3, MG L-mini II



Show-off!. Nice collection you got there :nana:

Your Drake is smaller than the Nite Glowring


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## fixitman (Apr 17, 2010)

How does the beam profile compare to a Quark MiNi AA? is it similar in size to the Quark MiNi AA? I am looking at alternatives to the MiNi for EDC.


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## jason978 (Apr 17, 2010)

the spill is smaller on the sc50 and hot spot is much brighter too.


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## Zendude (Apr 18, 2010)

ky70 said:


> Congrats!! I got mine on Monday from illumination gear. I ordered on Friday around noon and had the light on Monday...less than 2 full business days (free shipping at that). So, I'm also a big fan if this vendor. It was my second order from these folks and communication and turnaround time has been great in both cases. Also, I've found them to have the lowest prices on Zebralight and Eagletac (with shipping and discount is factored in).
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Wow! I'm used to mismatched ano but that looks pretty extreme....maybe its the phone camera.


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## jhc37013 (Apr 18, 2010)

Zendude said:


> Wow! I'm used to mismatched ano but that looks pretty extreme....maybe its the phone camera.



My tailcap is also a bit darker then the body but this little light is so nice I ordered another this time warm white.


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## rookiedaddy (Apr 22, 2010)

*Bug in ZebraLight SC50w?*

*EDIT:* oops... didn't realize until I do another more detail search that this issue has already been raise in this thread  mod, can you please merge this? thanks. 

*EDIT 2:* I just tried the same sequence on SC30w, it works as it should, no memorization issue.

thanks to pseudoblue, he pointed out an issue with the mode memorization of ZebraLight SC50w that we acquired yesterday.

According to ZebraLight website:


> Double click at any level to toggle and select between the two sub-levels for that mode. *Medium and Low sub-level selections are memorized after the light is turned off and through battery changes*. Strobe selection is not memorized.



however, we found that SC50w doesn't memorize the sub-level selection if you perform the following operations:

1. Press and hold for 1 second to go into low mode (4.4 lumens)
2. Double click to go to sub-level lower low mode (0.6 lumens)
3. Test the memorized function by turning the SC50w off and press and hold to turn on again. It memorizes the lower low mode (0.6 lumens)
4. Press and hold to go to medium mode (33 lumens)
5. Double click to go to sub-level lower medium mode (18 lumens)
6. Test the memorized function by turning the SC50w off and press and hold to turn on again. It goes into low mode (4.4 lumens) instead of the lower low (0.6 lumens).

in short, do this:
4.4 lumens ==> 0.6 lumens ==> 33 lumens ==> 18 lumens
result is SC50w cannot remember the 0.6 lumens sub-level in this flow.

I'm not sure if this apply to SC50 cool white or not, perhaps those who have SC50 cool white can try this and confirm?


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## jhc37013 (Apr 22, 2010)

*Re: Bug in ZebraLight SC50w?*

Well I just tried it on my SC50 and SC50W and sure enough they both do what you say. It does not matter if I program the light's to the 1 or 2 medium. Also it does not help if I cycle the modes before shutoff once I program medium I can cycle modes and everything appears fine but as soon as I shut off it forgets the low-low.


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## DM51 (Apr 22, 2010)

*Re: Bug in ZebraLight SC50w?*

Merging threads...


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## KingCanada (Apr 22, 2010)

I wish ZL made one that was larger, like 2xCR123a or even 2xAA. If so, I'd pick one up in a heartbeat as it looks damn near perfect already, just too small.


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## swxb12 (Apr 22, 2010)

*Re: Bug in ZebraLight SC50w?*



KingCanada said:


> I wish ZL made one that was larger, like 2xCR123a or even 2xAA. If so, I'd pick one up in a heartbeat as it looks damn near perfect already, just too small.



2AA is coming, and with a unique design too.


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## lebox97 (Apr 22, 2010)

The SC50 tail cap is more typical color HA for the ZL... according to ZL their first run of the SC50 bodies and head are lighter HA than their usual - hopefully they didn't run too many thousands of them 

it'll make a nice collectors edition 
it is kind of a nice color in person - dark bronze'ish?


Tod




jhc37013 said:


> My tailcap is also a bit darker then the body but this little light is so nice I ordered another this time warm white.


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## ky70 (Apr 22, 2010)

lebox97 said:


> The SC50 tail cap is more typical color HA for the ZL... according to ZL their first run of the SC50 bodies and head are lighter HA than their usual - hopefully they didn't run too many thousands of them
> 
> it'll make a nice collectors edition
> it is kind of a nice color in person - dark bronze'ish?
> ...


 
Hello Tod :twothumbs

When are you expecting to have the Zebralight H31 for sale? 

Sidebar: Any estimate on the arrival of the Eagletac PC20C?

Thanks!!


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## lebox97 (Apr 22, 2010)

I'm fairly confident that the ZL H31 will be available a lot sooner than the ET PC20C...

keep an eye out on CPFMP and the individual dealer websites for updates...



Cheers
Tod




ky70 said:


> Hello Tod :twothumbs
> 
> When are you expecting to have the Zebralight H31 for sale?
> 
> ...


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## KingCanada (Apr 22, 2010)

*Re: Bug in ZebraLight SC50w?*



swxb12 said:


> 2AA is coming, and with a unique design too.



One's a brick of cheese, the other two are tubes of chapstick. Kind of want one that I can hold on to and not lose in my hand.


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## eala (Apr 26, 2010)

Just got mine tonight. This light is very well thought out. The UI is one of the best I have used. I love the ability to jump to any of the three levels (two of which are customizable) right away.

My only gripe is that the anodizing around the bezel is a little flaky but it is a very minor thing... output on 14500 is incredible. 

I love the warm temperature as well (have 50w). 

It did come on once in my pocket, but I had too much stuff in there at the time and it was rolling around in the bottom. I will keep it clipped and that will solve that - or lock out.

I have never had a low this low (0.6 lumen) and I like it.


eala


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## rookiedaddy (Apr 27, 2010)

*Bug in ZebraLight SC50w?*

an update on the memorization bug in SC50/SC50w. According to ZebraLight, a new version of SC50/SC50w with memorization bug fixed is on its way to Texas office as well as their resellers.

The bug was due to "...a new tiny microcontroller that's different from the one in the SC30/H501 is being used".

ZebraLight has handled the matter very professionally when contacted, they even offer an exchange. However, I've decided to keep mine as it does not get in the way of normal operation, besides, I like the tint on mine... :thumbsup:


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## jhc37013 (Apr 27, 2010)

*Re: Bug in ZebraLight SC50w?*

Well it is nice of them to exchange and if I was ever offered exchange I wouldn't bother either, the default settings is what I mostly use anyway. How does this bug slip by QC on an entire run of lights is what I wonder.


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## ky70 (Apr 27, 2010)

*Re: Bug in ZebraLight SC50w?*



jhc37013 said:


> Well it is nice of them to exchange and if I was ever offered exchange I wouldn't bother either, the default settings is what I mostly use anyway. How does this bug slip by QC on an entire run of lights is what I wonder.


 
I'll stand pat with mine as well as I'm very happy with the light and don't really have a preference between Medium 1 and Medium 2 as I'm only concerned with which low mode the light turns on in (I likely would have never noticed this bug if not for uplite's review).

But you raise a good question regarding QC...if a few lights had the bug it would be one thing but for them all to have it is a clear indication that there was a sizeable hole in the testing process.


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## ky70 (Apr 27, 2010)

I noticed over the last few days that my light was falling out of my pocket when I rub against something or if was sitting in a certain position...so the clip was suddenly less secure as this had not been a problem previously.

Well today I was fondling my light and noticed that the clip was a little loose (Ah ha!!). So I tightened the screws down and now my clip is secure again. Just something for you folks to look out for as I would hate for anyone to lose their light. 

I'll be adding some blue locktite to the screws when I get a chance so I don't have to worry about the screws working themselves loose. I'll use Blue loctite because it will lock the screws in place BUT is not permanent and can be undone with enough force.


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## Yapo (May 6, 2010)

I've been looking to getting this light or the LiteFlux LF2XT and i've currently been EDCing a LRI Proton Pro.

Does anyone have experience with these lights?

Thx!


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## LiteShow (May 6, 2010)

You could check out my mini-review from an EDC perspective:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/273682



Yapo said:


> I've been looking to getting this light or the LiteFlux LF2XT and i've currently been EDCing a LRI Proton Pro.
> 
> Does anyone have experience with these lights?
> 
> Thx!


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## FroggyTaco (May 6, 2010)

Yapo said:


> I've been looking to getting this light or the LiteFlux LF2XT and i've currently been EDCing a LRI Proton Pro.
> 
> Does anyone have experience with these lights?
> 
> Thx!



I have owned a LF3XT & a LF2XT plus a SC30w/SC50/H501w & H501. My opinion is the ZL's seem to be more robust in their design & their simple yet comprehensive UI is hard to argue with. That being said, if you like to make your light perfect to your specs. the LF2XT is where it's at.


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## burntoshine (May 6, 2010)

Yapo said:


> I've been looking to getting this light or the LiteFlux LF2XT and i've currently been EDCing a LRI Proton Pro.
> 
> Does anyone have experience with these lights?
> 
> Thx!



in my opinion, the LF2XT is hands down the best flashlight ever!

i own two. one in natural, and one Steve special titanium version with sapphire lens and a tritium vial in the button. perfecto!


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## ky70 (May 6, 2010)

burntoshine said:


> in my opinion, the LF2XT is hands down the best flashlight ever!


 
Do you have the zebraligt SC50 or SC30 for comparison?


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## Yapo (May 6, 2010)

Hey FroggyTaco, since you say you "have owned" i assume u dont still have all those lights?! Which ones did u keep?

If you do or if u can remember how did the output and beam pattern/throw compare between the SC50 and LF2XT?

The UI of the LF2XT does sound quite awesome and more flexible than the Zebralight and i do have a few unused AAA which i would like to make use of...but i would also like to have more throw and higher output which the SC50w offers.

And that titanium + Trit LF2XT does look rather awesome but way too awesome for me to afford(for now)!

Steve is currently offering a free aspheric lens shipped with the LF2XT which would give me more throw although the smooth beam would be ruined and he only has it in black while Khoo still has a few in natural left which i'd prefer...

Decisions...decisions...:hairpull:


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## FroggyTaco (May 7, 2010)

I currently own the SC30w & SC50. 

I only sold the LF2XT because it was to small for my hands. The LF3XT I had to return because it was modded with a XP-G emitter which became a failed torch. I really liked the LF3XT & miss it. Once LF releases a AA version with the current LF2XT firmware I will prolly own one.

I will most likely be selling my SC50 since I have about 20 CR123 cells that are gonna take forever to use up on the SC30w. Once I use them up, I will sell the SC30w & buy a SC50w since I prefer that size for EDC.

The SC50 was visually brighter than the LF2XT both running white topped Dura Loops. However if you step up to 10440 cells in the LF2XT that advantage disappears. 

The LF2XT both had less of a spot & more of a tightly defined spill than the SC50. Since I prefer my EDC's to be more flood than spot & have a separate torch for throw duties, the LF2XT/LF3XT. 

That being said, I perceive the SC50 to be better built than the LF2XT. 

If I could combine ZL's HA & switch with LF's UI & reflector that would be an awesome light. I could go with either a tail switch or a side clicky.






Yapo said:


> Hey FroggyTaco, since you say you "have owned" i assume u dont still have all those lights?! Which ones did u keep?
> 
> If you do or if u can remember how did the output and beam pattern/throw compare between the SC50 and LF2XT?
> 
> ...


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## ky70 (May 7, 2010)

FroggyTaco said:


> I currently own the SC30w & SC50.
> 
> I only sold the LF2XT because it was to small for my hands. The LF3XT I had to return because it was modded with a XP-G emitter which became a failed torch. I really liked the LF3XT & miss it. Once LF releases a AA version with the current LF2XT firmware I will prolly own one..


 
I've had my eye on the LF3XT...one day I'll grab one.



FroggyTaco said:


> The SC50 was visually brighter than the LF2XT both running white topped Dura Loops. However if you step up to 10440 cells in the LF2XT that advantage disappears.


But it's not apples to apples comparing the brightness of the SC50 on a 1.2v AA to the LF2XT on a 10440. So I'm guessing the SC50 on 14500 is brighter than the LF2XT on 10440. I EDC the SC50 on a 14500 and there is nice boost in power when compared to this light on a Dura loop (which is my back up battery).


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## hazna (May 10, 2010)

I went for a walk tonight with my sc50... running it on freshly charged, newly received trustfire 14500 (the black and red label). It was still running after 45 mins. I turned it off once I got home, as I was worried about over discharging the cell. I do not have a DMM with me atm to test the voltage... but will do so tm.

btw, the black and red trustfires fit the sc50, but I'd imagine theres a lot of force on spring.

EDIT: the resting voltage of the battery was 3.74. Still some juice left (maybe 10-15%?)


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## jhc37013 (May 10, 2010)

I am continually impressed with the SC50 and have both the SC50 and SC50w and love them both I carry the SC50w when it's raining or foggy. I carry a main EDC in a holster usually a PC20C2 MKII or E2DL and always a backup in my packet deep carry. My pocket light rotates between three models the SC50, Jet-I Pro and E1B. I have not had the Jet-I Pro for long but so far I like it better only because the size fits my hand better and has 3 program modes, this is why I usually choose it over my E1B anyway and the 14500.

The only reason I like the Jet-I over the SC50 is the ZL is really almost to small for me other then that it's perfect and many members may just love the mini size of the SC50 or the extreme mini SC30. What I crave most is a Zebra 2xcr123 with 250+ lumens with everything else identical to the SC50.


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## Henk_Lu (May 10, 2010)

jhc37013 said:


> What I crave most is a Zebra 2xcr123 with 250+ lumens with everything else identical to the SC50.



For me they can make it 18650 only and with an XP-G neutral white please! 

I'm still waiting for my SC50w (and the H31) and I'm very pleased about what I read here about the light... :wave:


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## jhc37013 (May 10, 2010)

Henk_Lu said:


> For me they can make it 18650 only and with an XP-G neutral white please!



I would take whatever comes first the 18650 or the 2xcr123 and with ZL history I would expect the 18650 to probably come out first, who knows maybe it will be broad voltage and we can have both in one light.

As for your SC50w your in for a nice treat as many of us know the hard part is waiting for delivery.


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## bansuri (May 13, 2010)

Got mine today, tint is beautiful, UI is so easy, the side clicky is just perfect. You won't be fumbling with this thing to turn it on with a 1-finger death grip or the over-extended overhand method, just grab it and click.
Watch the return of side switches after the success of this series.
Well done, ZebraLight!
And thanks for the first impressions thread and all the posters who've contributed.
Also, kudos for the brown box packaging and quick shipping from Goingear.


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## zbad (May 23, 2010)

have zebralight fixed the switch water resistant issue? I really like this light, but I cannot compromise on water issue.. I hope it as good as the D10 which I can bring to cross strong water current n swim with it. 

some who own many sc50, please test one of your for the better of others


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## jblackwood (May 23, 2010)

If it's really that important to you, dive lights are what you should be considering. the IPX ratings are for still water, not for swimming and DEFINITELY not for swimming in water with a strong current.


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## davidt1 (May 23, 2010)

ky70 said:


> Do you have the zebraligt SC50 or SC30 for comparison?



He probably means the best light he owns. Otherwise, saying some flashlight is best light in all of the light universe without testing them all side-by-side is a huge stretch of the imagination.


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## iqwozpoom (May 23, 2010)

Hello all!:wave:
First post, been reading them for a while though. So here goes. I first came across these post here and there on bpl or edc, seen a pic of an L0d and saw a thread on petzl xp mods. After following those two topics of research I came across the zebralight H501. Wow! Single AA cell headllamp! Ordered one as soon as I could find it. I got the "brightest one". After using it one night doing farm work I ordered the neutral. Before I ordered the first one I had called Todd at illuminationgear who was very helpful answering my questions about tints and batteries. Sure enough the neutral was more useful for depth and color rendition outdoors. Seeing is believing! I tried to wait for the H51 but reading the reviews on the H31 series I realized that despite my new found fondness for neutral tints I would probally end up getting the xp-g. So I ordered the SC50W. I was already having no luck trying to find neutral from other manufactures. Besides I'm impressed with zebralight's in so many ways. Runtimes, output, the spacing between levels and their presence on the forums answering questions and inqueries. As someone who is just beginning to discover modern lighting technology the SC50W is outstanding! It has an easy side click no hamster wheel interface. The light doesn't make everything ghost out and it cuts through north coast fog better than the cooler tints I'm used to. It even has a nice bit of style compared to the pipe and lugnut cash register specials. Thank you to everyone on these forum for being a great source of information and to Illuminationgear for being lightning fast. Now just need a high cri p4 for the xp mod ;a 2aa pack light, a cr123x2 pocket torch, penlight, aaa keychain.........


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## jblackwood (May 23, 2010)

:welcome:


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## pae77 (May 25, 2010)

I just received an SC50w today. Like most others, I'm very impressed with the light overall. I'm one who prefers the neutral/warm tints and I really like the way, for an AA light, this light is pretty small, especially compared to my aging L1D. Just the smaller size alone makes it a nice upgrade, but of course there is so much more to like about it, as has already been well pointed out by others in this thread.

But I have a few minor criticisms. Mine came with the memory bug which I thought had been fixed by now and therefore did not expect to get a new one with that, but I guess it's not really that big a deal. Also there is some quite noticeable dust inside on the reflector on my example, although I don't think it is noticeably affecting the beam, but it kind of bugs me. 

One thing I don't mind at all is the tail cap being darker in color than the body. In fact I kind of like the way (on mine at least) the tail cap is so dark it almost matches the rubber switch cover so it looks intentional and kind of balanced and quite nice, imo. 

But I'm very disappointed that the clip is chromed and not solid stainless steel, although I knew about that before I ordered the light. I would have liked the clip to be stainless, like the clips on most of the Spyderco pocket knives, whether it was painted over or not. The chrome coated clip gives the light somewhat of a cheap aspect that detracts from what is otherwise a very high quality light, imo. 

But, as I said, these are all fairly minor things. The important stuff is very nice and I'm pretty sure this (or a replacement, if I bother getting it swapped for one w/o the memory bug and dust in the reflector) will become my new AA EDC.


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## ky70 (May 25, 2010)

pae77 said:


> But I'm very disappointed that the clip is chromed and not solid stainless steel, although I knew about that before I ordered the light. I would have liked the clip to be stainless, like the clips on most of the Spyderco pocket knives, whether it was painted over or not. The chrome coated clip gives the light somewhat of a cheap aspect that detracts from what is otherwise a very high quality light, imo.


 
Is the clip chrome or just stainless steel with a mirror/polish finish (opposed to stainless steel with a brushed finish)? I have the light and I assumed the clip was stainless steel with a polished finish but I don't know that for sure. 

If the clip is polished/mirrored stainless steel, it can be pretty easily converted to brushed stainless steel by using a green scotch brite pad...I've done this conversion with a couple of my stainless steel watches (changing the bracelet and/or case from polished to brushed).


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## NonSenCe (May 25, 2010)

quick update of mine:

i still like it.

but i have quit using li-ions as the runtime seems to be too weak. (had to source spare out of my backup light.. quark mini or tactical.. three times or so by now.)

so now i use eneloops. (it feels like i have double the runtime with them)


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## ky70 (May 25, 2010)

NonSenCe said:


> quick update of mine:
> 
> i still like it.
> 
> ...


 
Which li-ons where you using? There was noticeable difference in capacity between my AW 14500 vs. my Trustfire blue label 14500. After 30 minutes of runtime on high, the AW read 3.79v fresh out of the light while the trustfire only read 3.64v. 

I'm pleased with the runtime/performance using the AW 14500. Also, I personally don't like the drop in output on high when using NIMH


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## NonSenCe (May 25, 2010)

yeah AW runs longest of the 14500s. then the black trustfire, then the blue (rough guess-timate) 

-side note: black trustfires, only one of mine fits and works.. others are too long. 

to me the drop is tolearable.. (i mostly need the low and medium settings anyways. and i still carry a li-ion quark tactical for the throw and high output.)


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## davidt1 (May 25, 2010)

I want to try some AW 14500s. Who is a good seller? Thanks.


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## edc3 (May 25, 2010)

davidt1 said:


> I want to try some AW 14500s. Who is a good seller? Thanks.



AW is the brand/seller. Here's a link:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=200812

I've also bought them from Lighthound and 4Sevens.


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## cave dave (May 27, 2010)

*Re: Bug in ZebraLight SC50w?*



rookiedaddy said:


> *EDIT:* oops... didn't realize until I do another more detail search that this issue has already been raise in this thread  mod, can you please merge this? thanks.
> 
> *EDIT 2:* I just tried the same sequence on SC30w, it works as it should, no memorization issue.
> 
> ...



I talked to the folks at one of the retailers over the phone today and the light he tried for me has this bug where it won't memorize. I ordered yesterday and managed to cancel my order before it shipped. I'm a bit bumed, but at least I found out before it arrived.


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## ky70 (May 27, 2010)

*Re: Bug in ZebraLight SC50w?*



cave dave said:


> I talked to the folks at GoingGear over the phone today and the light he tried for me has this bug where it won't memorize. I ordered yesterday and managed to cancel my order before it shipped. I'm a bit bumed, but at least I found out before it arrived.



I completely understand not wanting this light because of the memory anomaly but I have to tell you that there is not a useful variance between the 2 Medium modes...they are so similar that I don't bother flipping between them as I dont find it worth while. So for me the memory anomaly is a non factor as it works perfectly for my use since I never program/flip to the lowest medium.

So if I were to criticize my SC50 as is, I would list the lack of spacing between the 2 mediums as a point against.


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## jhc37013 (May 27, 2010)

*Re: Bug in ZebraLight SC50w?*

I agree it's really not a big deal you can just program the low-low and leave the medium alone, like already said the difference is really nothing on med but their is a good amount of difference on low.


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## LiteShow (May 28, 2010)

*Re: Bug in ZebraLight SC50w?*



jhc37013 said:


> I agree it's really not a big deal you can just program the low-low and leave the medium alone, like already said the difference is really nothing on med but their is a good amount of difference on low.



I agree totally with jhc37013. That's exactly what I do.

I had emailed zebralight.com directly and they had excellent service and offered an exchange. I am assuming the new one was fixed. I thought about it and declined the exchange. I could live with the bug as it's really not a big deal. Besides, the modes are so easy to access and change if needed.


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## swxb12 (May 28, 2010)

I ordered my SC50 a couple weeks ago direct from Zebra. Unfortunately mine has the bug as well, but as long as my low-low saves it's not a deal breaker for me. Tbh I use medium as my high or go straight to high when my finger is feeling lazy, heh.

A little detailed feedback from Zebralight documenting this issue would have been nice, however. Maybe an email blast to owners and dealers of this batch of lights? I can imagine that there may still be SC50 owners out there that haven't quite figured out that their lights are not functioning as advertised. Maybe that's asking for too much *shrug*


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## davidt1 (May 28, 2010)

Perhaps they should have stayed with the H501R UI, and I bet no one would miss/care for the extra levels in the new UI.


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## ky70 (May 28, 2010)

pae77 said:


> But I'm very disappointed that the clip is chromed and not solid stainless steel, although I knew about that before I ordered the light. I would have liked the clip to be stainless, like the clips on most of the Spyderco pocket knives, whether it was painted over or not. The chrome coated clip gives the light somewhat of a cheap aspect that detracts from what is otherwise a very high quality light, imo.





ky70 said:


> Is the clip chrome or just stainless steel with a mirror/polish finish (opposed to stainless steel with a brushed finish)? I have the light and I assumed the clip was stainless steel with a polished finish but I don't know that for sure.
> 
> If the clip is polished/mirrored stainless steel, it can be pretty easily converted to brushed stainless steel by using a green scotch brite pad...I've done this conversion with a couple of my stainless steel watches (changing the bracelet and/or case from polished to brushed).



I am pleased to report that the clip finish can be converted from the mirrored finish to a brushed finish. I changed mine over today and it took all of about 10 minutes to do. I'll post pics later but I do prefer the clip not being shiny. I forget the name of the sanding block I used but this can also easily be done with a scotchbrite green pad which can be bought at your local store for a $1.


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## vtunderground (May 29, 2010)

I bought an SC50w to replace my Surefire L1 Cree. I was looking for a light with 100+ lumens, 2+ levels, a head-down clip, and that takes a single AA battery. I had it narrowed down to the Quark Tactical AA & the Zebralight. I prefer the UI of the Quark, but the Zebralight won out because of it's (in my experience) superior anodizing.

As it turns out, I really like the UI of the Zebralight. Once you figure out all of the quirks & tricks, it's pretty easy to use. I LOVE how I can go straight to high or low (from "off") by using either a short or long click of the switch. I could live without the alternate levels that you can double-click to, but I can see the attraction to some users, especially with the super-low-level.

And of course, the design is fantastic. Zebralight makes slight improvements with every light they release, based on feedback from previous models, and it shows!


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## Abyssos (May 29, 2010)

When you access the medium mode with the flashlight off, I fast double click. But it seems like that it first flashes high and goes to medium. It is quite annoying. I take it that this normal??? Would have been nice to be able to go to medium without going through high or low mode.


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## Ragiska (May 29, 2010)

medium is in the middle, so you have to get to it through either high or low. you choose which one.


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## FroggyTaco (May 29, 2010)

Abyssos said:


> When you access the medium mode with the flashlight off, I fast double click. But it seems like that it first flashes high and goes to medium. It is quite annoying. I take it that this normal??? Would have been nice to be able to go to medium without going through high or low mode.



If you don't want that momentary burst on high, just click & hold & it will cycle low then medium which is less intrusive especially if you have dark adapted vision.


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## :)> (May 29, 2010)

The UI is wonderful. You can effortlessly access either high or low from the start and the light has 6 levels... very nice execution of the single button interface.


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## davidt1 (May 29, 2010)

Yeah, great UI! That's what we H501 owners have been saying for over a year now. I guess it's more popular now being on a flashlight.


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## timbo114 (May 29, 2010)

I got my SC50W from Illuminationgear.

I love *everything *but the clip - my personal preference would be an anno OD clip to match the body ..

Side switch is exceptional - tint is sweet - UI, fit and finish is perfect.
The only upgrade I could imagine would be a *2x14500* version. :devil:


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## bansuri (May 29, 2010)

ky70 said:


> I am pleased to report that the clip finish can be converted from the mirrored finish to a brushed finish. I changed mine over today and it took all of about 10 minutes to do. I'll post pics later but I do prefer the clip not being shiny. I forget the name of the sanding block I used but this can also easily be done with a scotchbrite green pad which can be bought at your local store for a $1.


Thanks ky70, the scotchbrite worked wonderfully.


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## ky70 (May 30, 2010)

bansuri said:


> Thanks ky70, the scotchbrite worked wonderfully.


 
Bansuri, glad it worked for you:thumbsup:. I started a thread *HERE* explaining the process.


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## applevision (May 30, 2010)

Tried so hard to resist...but pulled trigger today on the SC50w...can't wait to play with it! I just love my Zebralights and find that I use them more than anything except for my TiFli neck light...


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## Vesper (May 31, 2010)

This has been my EDC now for about 3 weeks replacing my D10. I absolutely love this light in every way. I also have one w/ the med UI issue but couldn't care about it. Low I adjust, or I go to high when I need it. The two levels of med as mentioned aren't too different anyway.


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## applevision (Jun 4, 2010)

Got my SC50w today... what is it about Zebralights that makes them so darn good?! 

Can't put it down. I just love the feel of it, the action, the beam quality and color--the whole schmear. 

So I have a LOT of little lights. And this is going to become my main "at home" light now. Compared to say the EZAA of just a year or two ago... or even my beloved D10 (a very special light indeed!), this is just a thing of beauty, a work of art.

So now, I am a major Zebralight fan. I have my H501 (and H501W of course) at the ready for tasks and night missions around the house. And now my SC50w is my "action around the house" light. 

Of course I have bigger guns at the ready for real BUMPS in the night (read: EagleTac M2XC4!), but this is my new little buddy.

Of course I have my TiFli around my neck at all times, for the late night creeping about... and by day I use my 4Sevens Preon as my penlight... and of course I keep my 4sevens MiNi CR2 on my keys... so I'm well illuminated... 

Ah... Zebra... such great work!!

Thank you!


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## DeadButAlive (Jun 30, 2010)

I got mine today (from the "official" outlet in TX) - it was on backorder for a while and I assumed it because they were waiting on the bug-fixed versions to arrive. First thing I did was check mode memorization and I'm happy to report that it remembers mode selection in medium and low independently - no more memory bug!

In testing various batteries with the light I stumbled upon another interesting (and possibly new) behavior. When running on a 14500 battery, in high mode I get a high/higher combination instead of the high/strobe combination. 


Turn on to high (quick single click) results in what appears to be the same high obtained with NiMH/NiZn/Alkaline.
Double click in high results in a brighter "turbo" mode instead of the strobe.
Turn the light off and back on and it comes back on in the lower high mode - it apparently doesn't memorize the sub-mode in high - double-click to return to "turbo" mode.
Apparently the light can tell when its running on a 3.7V LiION and adjust its behavior accordingly. It appears that on 14500 it behaves very similar to the SC30 (with the output levels in high mode reversed and without sub-mode memorization in high). Since I didn't have one of the pre-bug-fix versions I don't know if this was the way they worked before or if its new, but I don't recall it being mentioned before.

I like the way it behaves on 14500 - I can still get the extra output but I have the option to tone it down to where it normally runs and extend the runtime. Honestly I don't miss the strobe since it never gets used anyway except to amuse the kids. I think the D10 is gonna get jealous of all the pocket time this one's gonna get :thumbsup:


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## pae77 (Jun 30, 2010)

That's interesting. I have an SC50w that also does *not* have the memorization bug but mine operates normally on 14500's. That is, on high, it has the bright high mode and the expected slow blink sub mode. 

I actually use the slow blink sub mode quite a bit when I'm crossing dark streets at night but I wouldn't mind having a few more light levels. Actually, I think it would be cool if one of the levels was a user adjustable ramping mode like the LF2XT has.


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## yowzer (Jul 1, 2010)

DeadButAlive said:


> I got mine today (from the "official" outlet in TX) - it was on backorder for a while and I assumed it because they were waiting on the bug-fixed versions to arrive. First thing I did was check mode memorization and I'm happy to report that it remembers mode selection in medium and low independently - no more memory bug!
> 
> In testing various batteries with the light I stumbled upon another interesting (and possibly new) behavior. When running on a 14500 battery, in high mode I get a high/higher combination instead of the high/strobe combination.



I just got one from Illumination Gear and it has the memorization bug (I assume it's taking a while for dealers to work through their old stock and get the fixed ones). Not a huge deal since I like moonlight and the default medium, but I'm jealous of the two high modes.


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## jhc37013 (Jul 1, 2010)

DeadButAlive said:


> I got mine today (from the "official" outlet in TX) - it was on backorder for a while and I assumed it because they were waiting on the bug-fixed versions to arrive. First thing I did was check mode memorization and I'm happy to report that it remembers mode selection in medium and low independently - no more memory bug!
> 
> In testing various batteries with the light I stumbled upon another interesting (and possibly new) behavior. When running on a 14500 battery, in high mode I get a high/higher combination instead of the high/strobe combination.
> 
> ...



Interesting post I have not considered the memory mode bug a problem for me with my SC50 and SC50w because the only mode I ever change is maybe the low mode. I find most interesting that your new SC50 has a lower high mode instead of the strobe. If I ever thought of one thing I don't like on my SC50's is the lack of two constant on high mode's as I have never used a strobe or beacon my whole flashlight life.

Maybe you didn't get a bug *DeadButAlive, *maybe this is what the SC50 is going to be now, maybe just the SC50w. I'm just guessing but I would like it anyway.


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## yowzer (Jul 1, 2010)

After carrying one for a few days, I'm happy to say the SC50w is pretty good at lighting up puddles of blood in a dark room.


















I'm an EMT. It was work-related! :naughty:

After carrying it for a few days, I think my D10 is going back in my pocket for normal use. It's a great light in many respects, but it turns on way too easily in my pocket unless I do a tailcap lockout, which is a step to reverse when I turn it back on. That's a pain... maybe I can find a belt sheath for it.


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## pae77 (Jul 1, 2010)

Someone else suggested clipping it to the front belt loop of one's jeans which is how I'm now carrying it w/o having to lock it out because so far mine hasn't activated while being carried in this manner. It did activate when carried in my jeans pocket, however, unless I locked it out, which is why I'm now doing the belt loop thing.


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## yowzer (Jul 1, 2010)

pae77 said:


> Someone else suggested clipping it to the front belt loop of one's jeans which is how I'm now carrying it w/o having to lock it out because so far mine hasn't activated while being carried in this manner. It did activate when carried in my jeans pocket, however, unless I locked it out, which is why I'm now doing the belt loop thing.



I'm trying that, but it's kind of awkward to clip and unclip the light from a beltloop, plus it seems more likely to bang into stuff than if in a holster, which provides some protection.


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## pae77 (Jul 1, 2010)

yowzer said:


> I'm trying that, but it's kind of awkward to clip and unclip the light from a beltloop, plus it seems more likely to bang into stuff than if in a holster, which provides some protection.


I suppose. I've only been doing it this way for a couple of days so far but it seems to be working out for me (assuming my belt loop holds up). But I'm not that active so perhaps less likely than some to bang into stuff.


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## hotlight (Jul 2, 2010)

not sure if I should post this here, sorry to OP if this is off topic. this seems to be the "official sc50 thread" tho.

quick question regarding my sc50.

just got it today, and it is what I expected(for the most part).

the emitter is not centered at all, and seems tilted higher on one "corner".
is this "normal"?(or do you guys have perfectly centered emitters?)


I don't mind it too much, but I don't like it. It obviously effects the beam, probably won't matter in real world use tho. 

so, keep it or exchange?


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## pae77 (Jul 2, 2010)

Are you sure it's really not centered? If it was really off center enough to affect the beam to any noticeable extent, I would seek to exchange it.

Mine seems well centered as far as I can tell. If you turn it on to the lowest low setting (which on mine is low enough that I can briefly look into the reflector while it's on), I find it easier to see whether the light emitting portion of the emitter actually is well centered or not.


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## hotlight (Jul 3, 2010)

pae77 said:


> Are you sure it's really not centered? If it was really off center enough to affect the beam to any noticeable extent, I would seek to exchange it.
> 
> Mine seems well centered as far as I can tell. If you turn it on to the lowest low setting (which on mine is low enough that I can briefly look into the reflector while it's on), I find it easier to see whether the light emitting portion of the emitter actually is well centered or not.



I shouldn't say, "the emitter is not centered at all". it is "centered" in the middle, but not exactly in the middle. I can clearly see that it is off center considerably(from exactly in center) with a naked eye.

not sure if I'm going to exchange, Ill test it out tonight and make my decision.... 

I'm gonna assume this is the most "off" a emitter could be and still pass QC.(meaning its not extremely off, but it is definitely not "precisely placed", good enough to pass QC)

when in moon mode- still looks off center(and tilted slightly(thermal paste glob?)-it tilts toward the ground when in the natural holding position, so this could be good.

great light besides that.


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## cave dave (Jul 8, 2010)

DeadButAlive said:


> ...
> In testing various batteries with the light I stumbled upon another interesting (and possibly new) behavior. When running on a 14500 battery, in high mode I get a high/higher combination instead of the high/strobe combination.
> 
> 
> ...



I got mine today also from zebralight.com. The Memory function works as it should. Unlike DeadbutAlive I have the 2hz strobe as the max alternative on all battery types as advertised in the on-line literature. It came in a small cardboard box with very little paperwork. You have to go the the webpage to see how it works. :thinking: Strange compared to the nice old packaging, but I sort of like the "green" less trash taking up landfill space. I already knew how to operate it before it arrived so no big deal. The timing is slightly differnt than my H501 headlamp though so it took a bit getting used to. I kept releasing the button to soon and getting Max instead of low.

I also noticed the models with the "memory bug" are now $10 off at Zebralight + you get extras. So if you don't care about that its a great way to save some dough.


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## jhc37013 (Jul 24, 2010)

cave dave said:


> I got mine today also from zebralight.com. The Memory function works as it should. Unlike DeadbutAlive I have the 2hz strobe as the max alternative on all battery types as advertised in the on-line literature.



I went to ZL website to pre-order the H51 and seen the SC50+ with the UI like DeadbutAlive has. It says it is back ordered until July so I'm not sure when they are going to ship it but I ordered one. The only complaint I have had with my SC50 as a EDC light is I had to choose either 38lm or the max 193lm with nothing in between so the new 122lm sub level really appeals to me. 

I ordered the H51 and SC50+ together and because the H51 in not scheduled for release until August 19th I asked in the comment box at checkout to please ship them separately as they become available, hopefully they will.


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## cave dave (Aug 12, 2010)

Update from the http://www.zebralight.com website.



> Updated version (July 2010): the first sub-level of Medium is increased to 36 Lm, the second sub-level of High using 14500 is changed to 107 Lm instead of the 2Hz strobe



From 33lm to 36lm on med isn't much of a change, would of really like a 50lm medium to differentiate more between the two mediums.

Since I am not using 14500 the change won't effect me . 

I would like to see them shorten the "hold" timing to low. I am used to my H501 headlamp and I keep releasing the "hold" too early and getting high instead of low. There is a pretty short window of opportunity between holding long enough to get low and holding to long an accidentally getting med. Th H501 I have is about perfect in this. But even with practice I want low but sometimes end up on High or Med. Also if you hold the button to cycle through modes I don't think it spends enough time in Med and High. Another 1/2 second should do the trick and not be to cumbersome. 

Still love this light, even as is.


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## FroggyTaco (Aug 12, 2010)

Just as an FYI: The "new" H501's with the new UI have the newer longer mode interval timing. I also prefer the older timing, but I have since adapted once I sold off my older faster mode ZL lights.

Travis



cave dave said:


> Update from the http://www.zebralight.com website.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## cistallus (Sep 1, 2010)

I'm interested in the SC50. Actually I'd prefer an SC60 but I insist on the ability to use primary batteries as backup, so it's out.
I have a few questions and concerns:

1. High level - web page implies it doesn't remember the high level. So which high level does it default to - the actual highest level, or the next-highest? On 14500? Eneloop?

2. Do AW 14500 (protected, black w/silver label, bought this year) work well in it? (They don't fit my H501w, have to use unprotected 14500 and the H501w has no protection for them so have to be careful.)

3. From comments, the SC50 tint should be fine for me, the SC50w might be a bit more noticeably yellow than I'd like, apparently it's more so than the H501w.

4. I don't like the interface difference from the H501w, will be awkward having both if they differ in how long you have to hold it down to get low level from off.

5. One vendor still shows "SC50" on their web page, but ZL shows only "SC50+" - are all the older ones sold, or do I need to query the dealer to make sure I'm getting the latest one?


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## jhc37013 (Sep 1, 2010)

1. it will always start on the lower high level no matter the battery choice.

2. I use AW 14500 and they fit fine

3. SC50 tint seems consistently good I have heard no complaints. I do have the SC50w but not the H501w to compare it to.

4. I don't notice any difference in the timing with my 501 (regular model)

5. If you want the SC50+ definitely check with your dealer and be sure he knows you want the SC50+. As far as I know their is still regular SC50's out there.


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## pae77 (Sep 1, 2010)

cistallus said:


> I'm interested in the SC50. Actually I'd prefer an SC60 but I insist on the ability to use primary batteries as backup, so it's out.
> I have a few questions and concerns:
> All my comments are based on the SC50w+ on 14500s.
> 1. High level - web page implies it doesn't remember the high level. So which high level does it default to - the actual highest level, or the next-highest? On 14500? Eneloop?
> ...


You definitely need to query the dealer to make sure and also request one with a less yellow tint, if the dealer will accomodate you, if going for the w model (unless you like and want that "golden" tint that the more yellow ones seem to have).

If you are not in too much of a hurry, I would recommend waiting for the SC51 which I believe will have XPG emitters which should make for a better beam as well as be brighter and have even better runtime, not that the SC50 is bad in those departments, except, I personally find the hot spot to be a bit too small and the spill to be a bit too large and relatively dim compared to the brightness of the hot spot. I suspect the XPG emitter should have a bigger hotspot and brighter spill.


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## cistallus (Sep 2, 2010)

Thanks jhc37013 and pae77. That's a bummer about item 1 - when I turn a light to high, I want it at its highest level, not have to fool around more to get there. They could easily have it remember the high level as well as the other two. Thanks for the other answers, they all sound good.

I was all set to get one but due to item 1, I think I will hold off, maybe until info about that SC51 shows up.

Hmm, clarification please: what if you aren't using a 14500? The Zebralight site's page for the SC50+ states "Strobe selection is not memorized.". This implies it must come on at its highest level when High is selected. Is that true for a non-LiIon, so the inability to come on at the highest level only applies to 14500?


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## pae77 (Sep 2, 2010)

I think you are right about that only being an issue with the 14500 power source. I can almost guarantee you though, it just is not going to be a problem in practice because the difference between the two high levels is so subtle and slight, imo, it just isn't a big deal. The lower high level is really bright. When you crank it up to the higher level, there is a barely perceptible difference. Because the difference is so slight but the lower high is so much more efficient, most of the time one should be satisfied and prefer to be using the lower of the two high levels anyway. I really believe this will become apparent to anyone once they start using the light. If there was a bigger difference between the two levels, that would be different and then I would agree it might be a problem, but since the difference in actual noticeable brightness is so minimal, most of the time you would just want to be at the level that is more efficient and giving you the longer runtime, especially since it is only barely perceptibly less bright than the other higher level. For me, if it came on at the higher level, I would always be turning it down.

In summary, even the lower high is really quite bright on this light and you are just not going to see a really practical difference between those two levels, except in runtime and heat, imo.



cistallus said:


> Thanks jhc37013 and pae77. That's a bummer about item 1 - when I turn a light to high, I want it at its highest level, not have to fool around more to get there. They could easily have it remember the high level as well as the other two. Thanks for the other answers, they all sound good.
> 
> I was all set to get one but due to item 1, I think I will hold off, maybe until info about that SC51 shows up.
> 
> Hmm, clarification please: what if you aren't using a 14500? The Zebralight site's page for the SC50+ states "Strobe selection is not memorized.". This implies it must come on at its highest level when High is selected. Is that true for a non-LiIon, so the inability to come on at the highest level only applies to 14500?


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## GunnarGG (Sep 2, 2010)

With the SC30w that I have there was some critic about the light switching of instantly if started in high - high if the battery was slightly depleted when running on primarys. The light remembered that it was in the higher sublevel and didn't stay on long enough to change to the lower sublevel of high. So you had to run it on medium instead. So in that case there is a point in always start at the lower sublevel of high, but remember the sublevels of low and medium.

I don't know if they have changed it in the SC30 but if they have it could maybe be that it is the same programming they use in the SC50.


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## yowzer (Sep 2, 2010)

I see a quite noticable difference between the 2 high levels on mine, and think of them as high and turbo and don't mind that the level isn't memorized. I just wish it had a higher mode instead of strobe with AA (Though not as bright, of course)... I'd rather use eneloops for extended use on a camping trip.

As for technical reasons: the second high slot is turbo with 14500 and strobe with AA. Switching between the two batteries could give you an annoying surprise, and memorizing different levels for different battery types just adds to the complexity of the light's circuitry, which means higher cost and more places for bugs to creep in. It would have involved more work, too, when the upgraded sc50+ was introduced, which would have likely meant more delays for the h51 and sc60.


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## HorseFilms (Sep 2, 2010)

I just placed an order for one of these. I can't wait to test it out. I'm still not sure if I'm going to run 'loops or if I'll grab some 14500s. That extra punch is tempting.


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## jhc37013 (Sep 2, 2010)

HorseFilms said:


> I just placed an order for one of these. I can't wait to test it out. I'm still not sure if I'm going to run 'loops or if I'll grab some 14500s. That extra punch is tempting.



Definitely get yourself at least one 14500 to try it with.


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## HorseFilms (Sep 2, 2010)

jhc37013 said:


> Definitely get yourself at least one 14500 to try it with.


 OK, I caved. 14500 and charger order has shipped.


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## pae77 (Sep 2, 2010)

I really like running Li-ion cells in lights that are designed to handle them, (like e.g., the SC50w+). For those who may be new to using Li-ion cells for flashlights, I recommend doing a little background research and study re proper use and maintenance of Li-ion type cells. Plenty of info to be found in the "flashlight electronics" "batteries included" section of this site. There are some important differences from NiMH chemistry that must be appreciated and observed for safety and to get long life from your cells.


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## HorseFilms (Sep 4, 2010)

After one night with the SC50w+, I'm hooked. Just awesome... and I don't even have the 14500 yet! 

I have a feeling that ZL is going to be bad news for my wallet.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 8, 2010)

FYI, my review of the SC50w is now up - along with the soon-to-be-released SC51 (XP-G).

Zebralight SC51 (XP-G R4) & SC50w (XP-E Neutral) 1xAA Reviews: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS + 

Enjoy!


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## HorseFilms (Sep 8, 2010)

Wonderful review, as usual, sir. Thank you very much!


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## MojaveMoon07 (Sep 24, 2010)

> jhc37013 said:
> 
> 
> > [...] My pocket light rotates between three models the SC50, Jet-I Pro and E1B.
> ...




This question is for anyone:

How do the size of the SC50w's hotspot and the brightness of the SC50w's spill compare with those of the JetBeam Jet-I Pro ?


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## B0wz3r (Sep 24, 2010)

MojaveMoon07 said:


> This question is for anyone:
> 
> How do the size of the SC50w's hotspot and the brightness of the SC50w's spill compare with those of the JetBeam Jet-I Pro ?



I have a Jet III Pro ST which uses the same reflector, and just got the SC50w+. The spill area of the SC is a good 35% larger than that of my Jetbeam, which has a Q3/5A emitter and the tint on the two is virtually identical; the SC might be just a little warmer but this could be because the ST is driven harder so has a higher max output (I run mine on a single 18650).


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## jhc37013 (Sep 26, 2010)

MojaveMoon07 said:


> This question is for anyone:
> 
> How do the size of the SC50w's hotspot and the brightness of the SC50w's spill compare with those of the JetBeam Jet-I Pro ?



The Jet-I Pro R2 has a wider and deeper reflector so the Jet's focuses more light into the hotspot. The size of the hotspots are not that different it's just the Jets is much much brighter. The spill is way wider on the SC50 and brighter, what your looking at is basically two different types of light's, one is geared for throw and the other for flood.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Sep 29, 2010)

Thank you both _very_ much for helping me.

My Fenix L0D RB100 and my Rayovac 2D incandescent flashlight have hotspots that are approximately comparable to the hotspots pictured _(link)_ in *selfbuilt*'s review _(link)_. Putting that information together with the information the two of you gave me helped me a lot in having a frame of reference for understanding what I could expect from the SC50w if I were holding one in my hand.

There's something that still puzzles me.
(1) The dimensions and the thoughtfully chosen brightness levels of the SC50w would seem to make it an ideal flashlight for night time walks. But when I walk around outside with my Rayovac with its small hotspot, the small hotspot makes that flashlight of minimal value *for me* for illuminating the terrain within five to ten feet of me *particularly* for ankle-twisting hazards like sprinkler heads, holes in the ground, and curbs
(2) When I browse the discussions about "throwers", on average people seem to regard a true thrower as a flashlight that can project light *at a minimum* as far as a JetBeam I; according to *selfbuilt*'s table of '_throw max_' values in his SC50w review, the SC50w throws about half as far as the JetBeam I

I'm not trying to be an antagonist; I'm genuinely trying to understand what usage is optimally suited for the SC50w.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 29, 2010)

MojaveMoon07 said:


> (2) When I browse the discussions about "throwers", on average people seem to regard a true thrower as a flashlight that can project light *at a minimum* as far as a JetBeam I; according to *selfbuilt*'s table of '_throw max_' values in his SC50w review, the SC50w throws about half as far as the JetBeam I.


I would not consider the SC50w as particularly throwy. However, throw values in isolation are misleading - you need to consider it in terms of overall output (i.e. the SC50w has lower output on Eneloop than most other lights).

Actually, I usually hear this question come up in the reverse sense - people are worried that the SC51 (which uses very similar optics with the XP-G) is too much of a thrower! In both cases, in comes from the wide disconnect of overall output - the SC51 is almost twice as bright as many lights in my collection. 

All of these numbers are just poor stand-ins for actual beam pattern comparisons. But if you really want to compare lights in my review tables, I suggest you compare ratios of "throw" (square-root lux) to either overall output measures. That would equalize for output, and give you a better idea how relatively "throwy" individual lights are.


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## B0wz3r (Sep 29, 2010)

MojaveMoon07 said:


> I'm not trying to be an antagonist; I'm genuinely trying to understand what usage is optimally suited for the SC50w.



I use my SC50w+ as my EDC light, which I keep clipped in my pocket pretty much at all times, even during the day.

I use it for numerous small tasks such as checking on my kids at night, doing a quick check on doors and windows to make sure they're secure, looking under my desk or bed for things I may have dropped, helping me change batteries in the innumerable battery operated toys my kids have (it can be hard to see those little embossed battery symbols at the bottom of the sockets for them), going to the potty at night, looking for things in my garage (even during the day), etc.

I do NOT use it for going on a night hike in the woods near my house or the like. Going down to the corner market in the evening is fine though as you don't really need throw when there's a lot of streetlights around, etc. This is also why I've chosen to run an L91 in it instead of a 14500; I find the strobe useful for alerting cars to my presence when walking across the street, and the lower output of the high-high mode gives me a much longer run time.

In short, I use it any time I need light for up close and personal tasks, where I need to light up a bit of an area, instead of just one object. The tighter hotspot it has because of its XPE emitter is nice though too, because it still easily goes across the 25 yards or so of my back yard, and down the alley to the end of the block if I need to check something outside and I don't have a larger, more powerful light handy.


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## B0wz3r (Sep 29, 2010)

This is a different topic about the SC50w than what's been discussed so far, but I wanted to share with all of you what is for me an effective way to carry my SC50w+.

I have attached the lanyard that came with my RRT-0 to the clip on the ZL. I've used a spring clip on it to allow me to clip and unclip it as I please. I do this with all my lanyards as I like to be able to move them around from light to light, or to keys or a SAK or the like if necessary.

The lanyard does move around this way, but it actually works quite well. Since the clip on the light is usually held underhand anyway, the clip on the lanyard doesn't really get in the way. It works well for both a traditional side-clicky grip or in a "pencil" grip. 

I've included links to some quick and grainy photos to show what I mean. 

Hope this is helpful for other owners of this wonderful little light. 

http://s763.photobucket.com/albums/xx271/hdoofenshmirtz/


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