# 200W LED Light - Super BRIGHT - 20,000 Lumen



## stollman (Oct 16, 2016)

I use bright lights for my underground video work in caves. Over the past 8 years, I have been using HID spotlights in combination with a Diffuser. The typical HID light I pack puts out about 7,000 lumens. I have seen 100W LED projects on YouTube and thought I would try to build a 200W LED that put out 20,000 lumen. It took me a couple of weeks to build the light once I received all of the parts. Sometimes in took 3-4 weeks to get parts from China (200W LED and Lens Kit). I was able to fit all of the components into the a plastic ammo box. Unfortunately, the powerful LED lights require a heat sink and cooling system, so this light is neither water resistant nor water proof (fair weather light). Attached is the Bill of Material for the light, which cost just under $200 USD to build. I would mention it is a flood light, not a spotlight due to the type of lens kit. A future project might be on how to figure out how to mount this in a Thor body and take advantage of its reflector. I think this would require some type of machining of the reflector.

Runtime with (4) 11.1v, 5,000 mah batteries: 27 minutes

*Major Components:*
200W LED

Epistar 200W, 32-34V, 7A, 20-22,000 Lumen, Color Temp: 4000-4500K 
Seller: Tiaochongyi (Ebay, 99.8% Positive Review) 
Price: $47.98 
 

200W White High Power LED Optic Glass Lens Aluminum Reflector Fixed Mount Holder

Seller: Top-LEDlight (Ebay, 99.0% Positive Review) 
Price: $19.99 
 






Tollshop Plastic Ammo Box

5 1/8” x 11 1/2” x 7 1/8” 
Seller: Menards 
$4.95 






Geeetech 150W Boost Converter DC-DC 10-32V to 12-35V Step Up Voltage Charger Module

Seller: Amazon 
Price: $6.99 






*Mcshow Yaln FAN D50sh-12c Fan 50*50*20mm 12v 0.27a 2pins 2wires Cooling Fan*

* Supplier: Amazon
* Price: $8.99
* Used to cool Geeetech Booster. Fits perfectly on top of Booster's heatsink. Zip tied it to the Booster











(5g) Thermal Conductive Heatsink Plaster Viscous Adhesive Compound Glue For PC GPU IC 


Seller: Amazon 
Price: $4.99 






DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 400 CPU Cooler Heatsink w/ 120mm PWM Fan w/ Blue LED

Seller: Amazon 
Price: 29.49 
 



Kingwin 120 x 120 mm Long Life Bearing Case Fan CF-012LB Black

Seller: Amazon 
Price: $6.49 
Comments: Used as a spacer for the interior, between heat sink and case. I removed the fan component to allow air flow. I also had to trim off part of the side since the Ammobox is tapered. 
 





ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 3S1P 20C Battery – 4 Pcs

Seller: HobbyKing 
Price: $21.82/ea 
 






*ZIPPY Flightmax 1000mAh 3S1P 25C 11.1V, 1 pcs*

* Supplier: Amazon
* Price: 6.78
* Used to power both of the cooling fans






Battery Wiring Diagram






*Floureon 2 Packs RC Lipo Battery Monitor Alarm Tester Checker Low Voltage Buzzer Alarm with LED Indicator for 1-8S Lipo LiFe LiMn Li-ion Battery - 2 Packs*

* Seller: Amazon
* Price: $7.99/2 Pack
* Used to monitor battery level on Lipo's







HXT4mm w/12AWG Silicon Wire 10cm (ESC side) (5pcs/Bag)

Seller: HobbyKing 
Price: $5.75 







RadioShack SPST Rocker Switch (Neon), Catalog #: 2750692 – 2 Pcs

Spec: 10A @ 125VAC or 6A @ 250VAC 
Seller: RadioShack 
Price: $5.00 
Note: Fits perfectly in the lid. They are also sunken so to speak, so it would be hard to accidentally turn on the light. 







Misc Supplies:

Wire 
Wire Nuts 
3M Dual Lock Velcro – Holds battery to Ammo Box 
Zip Ties – Glued to Ammo Box and used to secure Boost Converter 
 
*Build Comments:*

Light has a switch for the light and a switch for the fan. After you turn off the LED light, I would continue running fan until it cools. 
Had to drill holes in heatsink for the wires to pass through 
Drilled holes on both sides of the Ammo Box to allow air flow 
You could install these on the side to filter air going into box 
 Coolerguys 120mm 3 Part Fan Filter Grill with screws (2 Pack) 
Seller: Amazon 
 Price: $10.64 
*
Build Pics:

*Cut out a hole in front of the case for heat sink cooler pipes to pass through. 
Note: The hot part of the light is outside the case






Drilled holes in both sides of the case for air to pass through







Misc Pic (Coolmax component attached to heat sink plate from lens kit)





Drilled holes in the heat sink plate (lens kit) to run wires through






Picture inside the lid. The small lipo battery fits perfectly into this slot.






Tight fit, but I got everything in.








Toggles Switches (Bottom of lid view)







*Finished Product
*


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## stollman (Oct 17, 2016)

Tried a run test tonight.
At 2 min 45 seconds, I cooked the Geeetech 150W Boost Converter DC-DC 10-32V to 12-35V Step Up Voltage Charger Module
:mecry::mecry::mecry:
Apparently, it was undersized for the job.Not to worry, I have a Plan B. I'll work on it this weekend.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C498MGY/?tag=cpf0b6-20


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## PapaLumen (Oct 17, 2016)

While the voltage from that unit may be in the correct range, you really need a "constant current" driver for led's


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## stollman (Oct 20, 2016)

Road Block
Well, I tried this power converter which is available on Ebay & Amazon. It has adjustable voltage and amp potentiometers. They were both set on a low settings. I turned the voltage up to 33 volts. I then connected my meter to measure in the inline amps. The driver was initially set to 2 amps, which seemed accurate because the light was dim. So I put a screwdriver on the amps potentiometer and started cranking it up. By the time I got to 6 amps (LED is rated for 7 amps), I started seeing a small column of smoke rising from the power converter. The light was also flickering slightly, which supports PapaLumen's comment above about a constant current driver. Anyways, Strike Two on the Drivers. I'll start looking around for a another Driver I guess. There's got to be a driver out there that will work. If anyone has any ideas, I am open to suggestions.

Second Driver attempted with this build:
DROK® DC/DC Boost Converter 12-60V to 12-80V Step-up Voltage Regulator 600W Auto Power Supply Transformer Adjustable Output Volt Controller Stablilizer Board Laptop Motor.
Amazon Link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C498MGY/?tag=cpf0b6-20

* FAIL


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## Lexel (Oct 20, 2016)

Run a 200W LED with a 150W Buck converter is really smart, better to grab a 300W model or even more

the buck driver is a good CC driver but not if you run it way outside specifications

try one like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boost-DC-DC...ule-12V-60V-to-12V-80V-600W-10A-/231572940208
input amps 15A output 10A should do fine for your LED with a 22.2V V battery pack


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## stollman (Oct 20, 2016)

Lexel, 
The one you are referencing in your EBAY link, is exactly the same one I used for my Plan B. A mentioned, when I hit 6 amps, a trail of smoke was coming off the board.


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## stollman (Oct 21, 2016)

I contacted DROK. they advised they do not have a Driver to provide constant current to power the light.

Question for the Forum....
I am using (2) 11.1V, 5000 mAH batteries. I am currently running this into (1) Driver to power the LED light.

If I changed the configuration to:
#1 battery is connected to #1 Driver
#2 battery is connected to #2 Driver
Leads from both drivers are connected to the LED
Would that solve the problem with overloading?
Split the draw between to Drivers?


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## Lexel (Oct 21, 2016)

It is not the same, just to make sure there is a reason why one is listed 150W (100W with passive cooling) and the other with 600W even if the current specs are the same

The one I have listed can withstand the power the LED needs the other just burns
it has quite more powerful semiconductors and voltage level as well as better cooling

if you run 7A at 33V on a 100(150W anctive cooling) buck driver you overload it up to 220% if it has 90% efficiency at that high current 

just run 22.2V on a proper buck driver and it will be fine, getting 2 buck drivers parallel is a bad idea
take one that can withstand the power loss of a 200W drain and all will be good


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## stollman (Oct 21, 2016)

Lexel,

I apologize. The Boost I used on the second attempt was this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boost-DC-DC...ule-12V-60V-to-12V-80V-600W-10A-/231572940208

I remember ordering it off Ebay and it taking 3 weeks to arrive. It is the same one you suggested.

You mentioned running the Driver at 22.2V. The 200W LED is rated for 32-34V, 7 amps. Don't I need to run the Driver at 32-34V, 7 amps to get the full brightness of the LED?









Lexel said:


> It is not the same, just to make sure there is a reason why one is listed 150W (100W with passive cooling) and the other with 600W even if the current specs are the same
> 
> The one I have listed can withstand the power the LED needs the other just burns
> it has quite more powerful semiconductors and voltage level as well as better cooling
> ...


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## Lexel (Oct 21, 2016)

You run the input at 22.2V, the lower the input voltage is the higher will be the input current
if the battery pack gets discharged the input current will rise
depending how its rated the input voltage can drop to 15V before a PCB cuts output or battery alarm rings
at 15V input you drain about 15A from the battery pushing even the 600W buck to its limits


those buck drivers can get really hot its better to give them a fan too, its in almost all descriptions to do help cooling if you run em at more than half of the maximum rated current

if you want be save not to burn try a 1200W or 1500W like this, as it supports more Amps as the last you burned its rated 20A or 30A
http://www.banggood.com/de/1200W-20...ply-Module-IN-8-60V-OUT-12-83V-p-1006423.html
http://www.banggood.com/de/DC10-60V...wer-Supply-Module-p-1076169.html?rmmds=search

the lower the difference between input and output voltage is the better the buck works
often in the description it also limits the input current below the normal rating at different input voltages

so be sure not to overheat it or run it close to its specification and you should be safe


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## stollman (Nov 12, 2016)

I looked into some suggestions Lexel proposed. Success! Thanks!

I updated the original post with the parts I added.
* I purchased another Geeetech 150 Booster
* I purchased a 50mmx50mmx20mm computer fan to cool the Booster
* I purchased two more 11.1V, 5000 mah batteries. Based on the revised wiring (series and parallel), I have 22.2V, 10,000mah going into the Geeetech 150W Booster
* I purchased some low voltage Lipo Battery Alarms
* I purchased a 11.1V, 1000 mah battery to power the two cooling fans

Powered it on and it worked like a champ. The batteries were at 95% charged. The light ran continuously for 27 minutes before the battery alarms started firing off. The light did not flicker. After 27 minutes, I felt the Booster and it was only slightly warm. So it all works now 

Next step is to figure out if I can get it all back into the ammo case. I need to clean up the wiring too.


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## Mr. Tone (Nov 14, 2016)

Thanks for sharing your project. It will be fun to see your progress with this experiment. Almost a half hour run isn't bad.


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## stollman (Nov 16, 2016)

Added some simple beam shots
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsYvcV_qqPo


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## Unicorn (Nov 24, 2016)

That's pretty impressive.


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## Mr. Tone (Nov 29, 2016)

Nice video, it's always fun to see comparisons. Do your neighbors ever ask you about your lights or have a problem with your hobby?


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## stollman (Nov 29, 2016)

I don't light up the neighborhood that much. Most of my beam shot videos are done in non-residential settings. Since this is more of a floodlight, I figured lighting up my house was a good venue. As long as I don't shine them at the neighbor's houses, they're cool with it.


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## Mr. Tone (Dec 3, 2016)

stollman said:


> I don't light up the neighborhood that much. Most of my beam shot videos are done in non-residential settings. Since this is more of a floodlight, I figured lighting up my house was a good venue. As long as I don't shine them at the neighbor's houses, they're cool with it.



That's cool, this one would be able to wake them up like when the Griswold's lights come on in "Christmas Vacation"! :santa:


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