# Arc-AAA Led replace???



## kingkong (Aug 6, 2005)

I want to replace my Arc-AAA Led with a new 26k LED. How do you take the old led out. I know someone mush had done this mod. Can someone point me into the right direction?

Thanks,
Cuong. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif


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## Thunder (Aug 6, 2005)

impossible dont think. Also i believe the Arc AAA is the newest Nichia LED. If you got old version, go get new one.
Also dont think those 26k LED from China get more light output.
P.S. I am Chinese,but i tested it.


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## Lynx_Arc (Aug 6, 2005)

From what I have heard of the 26k LEDs and the arc even if you figure out how to replace the LED I wouldn't use a 26k as the arc would probably overdrive it too much thus prematurely dimming may occur. Get one of the new nichias from grumpy's group buy instead as I think they are the same LEDs in the new arcs.


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## ViReN (Aug 6, 2005)

Replace it with Grumpy's Nichia CS LED.

I have seen a couple of threads on How to open A Arc AAA, I currently dont have links though /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

But, It does require some skill, Thermal Cycling and some "un-Crimping"

But Once Done, it will be as good as a Premium...


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## chimo (Aug 6, 2005)

I have done a couple of these now for myself. I had a couple of PM requests on the process so here is a copy of what I sent:

The longest part of the operation is unpotting the head. It is a little risky as well because you have to heat the head (either hot water or direct heat) to soften the epoxy and then pick off the epoxy in little pieces with a sharp tool. The risky part is to the board components while using a tool like a dental pick to fleck off the epoxy. Depending on your luck/skill/patience there is a chance that the board could get damaged during this part. 

1. Remove the foam ring. 

2. Carefully uncrimp the head. I used a combination of tools (bull nose cutters, small flat tip screwdriver and a larger pin punch to roll the edge smooth when it was uncrimped enough). Ensure when you are done this part that there will be nothing in the way to prevent the board from coming out. 

3. Heat the head and then use a dowel to push on the LED to slide the encapsulated pill out of the head. 

4. Dip the pill in a pot of hot water to heat it up. Quickly and carefully pick off the epoxy while the pill is hot. Repeat the heating/picking until all/enough of the epoxy is gone. (This step takes a while because the pill is so small it loses its heat quickly.) You really have to resist the temptation to pick off huge chunks. Also be careful at the top as to not damage the small O-ring around the LED while unpotting. 

5. Once the epoxy is gone, unsolder the LED. Be careful not to try not to bend the legs from their formed shape. 

6. Bend the legs of the replacement LED to the shape of the one that has been removed and trim for length. 

7. The output capacitor will either be soldered to the board or directly on the LED legs. If it is on the LED legs it will have to be resoldered to the new LED. 

8. Solder in the new LED. Ensure it is centered. Re-install the LED O-ring. 

9. Slide the assembly back in the head. 

10. Re-crimp and install a foam battery ring. 

I did not re-pot mine because you never know when an even brighter LED will come out and the unpotting stage really sucks. However, if left unpotted, the light will be more susceptible to mechanical shock damage because the potting helps support the components.

Paul


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## Thunder (Aug 7, 2005)

oh yeah someone did it lol ;p
nice work chimo
but yeah it request a LOTS of Skill to work it out /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif


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## AW (Aug 7, 2005)

ARC AAA with 26K mcd 5mm is about 2.5 to 3 times brighter. Most important - a pure white beam. The driving current is 30mA which is a bit over the spec. of 20mA. For the beam quality I 'm getting, I wouldn't mind to swap another 26K when it gets dimmed.


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## Thunder (Aug 7, 2005)

You can drive Nichia LED up to 100mA and it will not break. tested even 150mA. I break 4 of them when i am testing those(100~200mA).LOL $2 USD
If you compare T Ranking NSPW500CS vs 22k China made White LED.
then you wont see much difference.I think i will put beam shot later.<--Someone took my DC :/
well i dont think it can reach 2-3.5 times brighter than Nichia.
How many mcd you get with 26k?
Nice Work by the way.
Also do you have more pictures when you replace it?

Thanks


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## chimo (Aug 7, 2005)

Thanks Thunder. I think that AW was probably comparing output against the original ArcAAA. I had first replaced the NichiaBS LED with a 26K and it was brighter (probably close to double). I since switched to the NichiaCS LED. Not as nice a beam colour but they should last much longer. 

AW, I think the ArcAAA current is around 50-60mA. I also found the 26K to be a little dimmer than the NichiaCS.

Paul


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## AW (Aug 7, 2005)

chimo,

Yes. I was comparing the 26k against the original ARC AAA. The new NSPW500CS is indeed a little brighter than the 26k. Well, my mistake on the 30mA /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif

AW


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## cy (Aug 7, 2005)

not all ARC AAA heads were potted. seems most of later ARC's were not potted at all. 

I've got new uncrimped heads if you destroy the old one. also have dead loaded ARC AAA heads available. 

please PM if you need some.


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## KevinL (Aug 7, 2005)

Very tempting....maybe I should try it.


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## chimo (Aug 9, 2005)

I just did another one last night. That was my third one so my time is improving. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif This one took me about one hour and 15 minutes. I even polished the reflector (put tape around threads, put it in the drill press and used a cloth with some polishing compound).

Measurements (@ 1 meter w/ a new Lithium battery):
Before: 31.1 Lux
After: 54.8 Lux

Paul


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## IsaacHayes (Aug 11, 2005)

cy, would a version 3.x be un-potted? Mine has the side engravging, but it was before the flickering problem ones. I really love my arc but would like it brighter, and not wait/pay 40 for a new premium one...

Chimo: My main concern with taking it apart is that the crip will break off when pushing it back down. Aluminum is brittle and doesn't like to be flexed. Also worry if it will make good electrical contact...


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## IsaacHayes (Aug 26, 2005)

Chimo: How hard is unsoldering the led? I've done DorcyAAA's, and Xnovas, am I going to be ok? Doesn't look like there is much room to get a soldering pencil in there under the led case...

Mine is one with side lettering, but not the "flicker" ones. I'm hoping it's not potted. I'm going to go a head with this. I sure hope I don't destroy my precious and be without it!


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## chimo (Aug 26, 2005)

Isaac

It's easier to heat the LED legs from the battery side (they protrude through the board but are cut flush with the surface). Heat one leg end while putting a little sideways pressure on the LED and the leg will start to come out. Do the same with the other leg and go back and forth between the two until the LED is free. (Clamp the board so you don't burn your fingers) A very fine tipped soldering iron is almost a must for this.

The unpotting process is the worst part of the operation.


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## IsaacHayes (Aug 29, 2005)

Ah, ok. That should be easy then to unsolder it. Now I gotta get me a new Nichia.. <checks on gb>  Thanks.


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## andrewwynn (Aug 29, 2005)

if removing something you won't use again.. cut the lead first.. than it makes it a whole lot easier to remove such as a resistor or LED not having to fight the 'other lead' when pulling.. no 'rocking back and forth.

-awr


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## greenLED (Aug 29, 2005)

chimo, thanks for the detailed procedure! and AW for the pics.
So the crimp doesn't break like in the Infinity lights? When I operated on my Infinity, I used a micro-thin screw driver, went very slow, and even then, the crimp broke off. Breaking the crimp doesn't really matter ('cuz of the way I set up my mod), but if I'm going to use the Arc board again, I may (?) need to secure the (NEG) contact on the board (right?).

Now, can someone direct me to a source for a brighter LED? I guess I'd go with a Nichia, 'cuz the 26k would die, and I don't really want to do this twice.  Thanks!


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## chimo (Aug 29, 2005)

andrewwynn said:


> if removing something you won't use again.. cut the lead first.. than it makes it a whole lot easier to remove such as a resistor or LED not having to fight the 'other lead' when pulling.. no 'rocking back and forth.
> 
> -awr



Good advice. I wanted to keep the BS LEDs (and one turquoise) for later comparison purposes.

Paul


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## IsaacHayes (Aug 29, 2005)

andrew: yup, good idea, I've done that before but forgot about it..
GreenLED: check the groupbuy forum, grumpy is doing one on the new Nichia CS! If all goes well with our mods then it sure beats paying 2x what I payed for my Arc to get a new Premium! (and makes mine that much more special!)


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## Krit (Sep 1, 2005)

Very interesting idea. I have my dorcyAAA and I going to do it with 100 mA led from dat2zip .


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## greenLED (Sep 1, 2005)

Thanks, IsaacHayes, I'm getting a couple to upgrade my keychain Arc AAA


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 1, 2005)

GL - NP, wish me luck, I wish you luck!


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## chimo (Sep 1, 2005)

As a reminder, here are the two types of output capacitors you may encounter.

On the driver board (next to the left LED lead).




On the LED leads.




Take your time with bending of the leads of the replacement LED. Bend them before you solder on the capacitor (if necessary) and before you solder it on the board. Ensure it is centered on the board and at the proper height as well. 

Good Luck and have fun!!! 

Paul


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 1, 2005)

Luck, yes I'll need it. Fun, we'll thats after it's assembled and working! heh! Before that I'll be:sweat:!!


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## greenLED (Sep 1, 2005)

Fun? Always! Luck? I'll probably need it, or else I'll have a dead ArcAAA in my hands.


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## bmstrong (Sep 2, 2005)

Just of of curiosity, would it be possible to use a 3W T / U -bin? And after your mods, how is the water resistance?


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## chimo (Sep 2, 2005)

bmstrong said:


> Just of of curiosity, would it be possible to use a 3W T / U -bin? And after your mods, how is the water resistance?



I didn't repot mine (on purpose) so I could replace the LED again if need be. One of the three heads that I have done came without potting :thinking:. This will seriously affect the water resistance, but I can accept that.  

One thing to consider is that not repotting also affects the resistance to impact - the potting material provides support for the components. I found this out by dropping the one that came non-potted on a concrete floor from about 1 meter.  The head was in a brass body at the time. The fall caused the light to stop working due to some slight inductor damage at one of the connectors. I resoldered it and it now works fine.

Recall that these drive the LED at around 50mA - the 3Watt will not be very bright at that current.

Paul


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 20, 2005)

Ok to heat up the potted crap, get some small hemostats or plairs to hold your pill. Then get a small pot (mine is maybe 2" diameter) and simmer some water over the stove. Then dip and pick.. you can handle it and pick off stuff with your fingernails sometimes easier. I made a bunch of stab marks with the pick then it came apart in peices easier.

Here is something important: When holding the pill with your hemostat/plairs, hold it by the CIRCUIT BOARD or LED only!!! Do not grab the middle of the epoxy. I was very saddened because the epoxy softened and the pressure caused the epoxy to split and lift away from the circuit board, along with half of the inductor!!! (it seems the inductor is soldered onto a small base, and the hair fine wires are protected with an even softer glue/epoxy). I noticed this right after I pulled it out of the water and went to pick...

Well I *_might_* be able to re-solder the upper torid's wires to the base of the inductor SMD. Man, this is becoming quite the nerve racking project. I *_have_* to get it working as I can't be out $20 arc, and then spend 45-whatever for a new premium! If I can't salvage the inductor, then I will have to find someone to sell me a new inductor. That looks easier to solder back on anyways, but I'll try and work with what I've got.

*Anyone know the value of the stock inductor?* It's got 3 red dots....


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## greenLED (Sep 21, 2005)

your inductor's gone to Inductor Heaven...

I broke small pieces off the inductors on an Infinity Ultra board, and even though I pieced one of them together (glued the ferrite back on with super glue), it would saturate prematurely. I was trying to drive a Lux I with it, and the results were not good. It seems like you split the inductor cover and the wires... 

I hope you can find a replacement inductor and re-solder it onto the board. CY's got some dead Arc AAA heads he was selling. Maybe you could scavange the inductors off them?

Good luck!

I got my Nichia CS's from Grumpy yesterday, and should get to work on my own LED transplant.


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 21, 2005)

Well, the circuit is working great now!  I can't belive how much "micro-surgery" I've been doing lately. The ferrite bead was intact. It just came off the base it sits on which is soldered to the board. The bead had 2 tiny wires sticking out on either side. I dabbed some glue and pressed the ferite bead down. Then I soldered the wires (thinner than a hair mind you) to the base that is soldered to the board. Then I soldered on the new LED. A quick test with an AAA and a wire, and a weird grip to hold it together and it lights up bright. Bright enough I wouldn't want to look right at the LED.

So I'd say I'm good to go. I just have to now go to town and get a new oring for around the led as the one I took off had a tear in it I guess from the picking. Then I'll re-pot it with some 5min epoxy. I don't think I'll be taking it apart ever again, as the roll crimp probably can't take another cycle. If there's a better LED out I'll take apart a different arc I guess. Plus I want it to be rugged as new.

Only scary part left is rolling back the crimp and hoping it doesn't break off!!

Good luck on yours, remeber my tips on picking the epoxy away!!!! (oh and the ferrite if broke no longer is a solid peice of metal. So it functions as a smaller ferrite bead, super glue doesn't help. Weld it back together is the only way, but that's near impossible!) (oh and do you know it was saturating? did you try the stock led back on it? as the stock circuit won't drive any luxeon very bright...)


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## greenLED (Sep 21, 2005)

Great news! :whew:

I think it was saturating 'cuz the Lux was pulsating. I was also playing with the Rsense; when left stock, the Lux was not very bright. I forget the mA readings (stock or modded). I ended up short-stacking a MM sammie and using that instead in the IU head.

How did you undo the crimp? I tried with a fine-tipped screwdriver on my Leatherman Micra, but I'm not sure there's enough material there for me to uncrimp. It didn't seem like I was uncrimping anything. Maybe I'm comparing against the UI's crimp, which is 1-2 mm thick and breaks off when you peel it back.


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 21, 2005)

Start with the screwdriver edge of the tip. the corner. You can start in the 2 holes in the circuit board.(used for injecting epoxy inside the head/air hole) Put it in, and rotate the screwdriver outward/downward. Carefull not to smash the crimp, or crush it, but "peel it away". Once you get going, you're comitted. So you gotta finish! When you get to de-potting, go slow, and watch out for my trouble! BTW how did you get your IU to make negative contact since the roll crimp broke off?


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## greenLED (Sep 21, 2005)

IsaacHayes said:


> How did you get your IU to make negative contact since the roll crimp broke off?



The UI board has a double-sided (neg) path on the board. As long as the "inner" neg path touches the inside of the UI's "can" (it has a small "step" on which the board rests, IIRC), you're OK. The tolerances are tiny and I actually pushed back the whole assembly too far by adding 3-4 layers of GID paint on the Lux's slug. It took me forever to figure out what the ~#@| was going on. 

Check out this post for a visual of what I'm trying to describe. The pic shows the populated side of the circuit board with the NEG path along the edges. The other NEG path is on the underside of the board is what makes contact with the crimp.

As I said before, I ended up messing up the board so badly (as well as a spare one I had) that I went the MM-pseudosammie way to complete the mod.


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## greenLED (Sep 23, 2005)

IsaacHayes said:


> Start with the screwdriver edge of the tip. the corner. You can start in the 2 holes in the circuit board.(used for injecting epoxy inside the head/air hole) Put it in, and rotate the screwdriver outward/downward. Carefull not to smash the crimp, or crush it, but "peel it away". Once you get going, you're comitted. So you gotta finish! When you get to de-potting, go slow, and watch out for my trouble! BTW how did you get your IU to make negative contact since the roll crimp broke off?



Thanks for your suggestion. I started at one of the holes and went around really slowly puching the crimp back. I boiled the head for about 3 minutes and the pill came out no problem. I go carried away and cleaned the epoxy off too. I'm ready to replace the LED now.

One thing I noticed last night is that the inductor wobbled around a bit (a fraction of a milimeter or so) when I was cleaning the epoxy off. Just like you mentioned, the round top part seemed to be lose. I thought I broke it. This morning, I picked up the pill to check on the inductor, and it wasn't moving at all!

The inductor has a couple of "blobs" of gray epoxy (?) on the sides, which were gooey last night when I boiled the pill, but were hard again this morning. I wonder if the round top of the inductor is secured by this gray substance. Anyway, I powered the pill, and the LED seems to be working OK, so I'm pretty sure the inductor is not damaged (or not damaged beyond functioning). Anyone had this happen before?


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## greenLED (Sep 24, 2005)

I'm (almost) done! I transplanted the LED last night. It took a little fiddling to get the LED's legs "right" because one of the original ones broke when I was desoldering it from the board. 

For some reason the old LED I had in there had a very blotchy and gave less than half the output than my wife or my son's Arc's. I haven't compared them again (it's morning now) side to side, but I did fire up the "new" pill last night and the beam was very smooth and brighter than originally.

While I was at it, I added some GID paint to the base of the LED, so now I have a GID Arc AAA!! Wooohoo! I have another "little" surprise in store, but I'll wait until I'm done and it works to show you guys. Pics coming (hopefully).


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 25, 2005)

greenLED: yes the top round part (torrid/wires - the inductor itself) sits on that base which the wires of the torrid are soldered to. Then there is gray epoxy dabbed over each side to hold the wires/torrid down. The base allows it to be soldered to a board easily. Sounds like your epoxy softened up but the wires on the torrid didn't rip off of the base like mine did.

On mine after I fixed the inductor and replaced the LED, I dabbed 5min epoxy over all the components on the board, and then up the legs of LED up to the base. I let it cure so now it's shock proof. Then I got a new O-Ring for the LED at Ace Hardware (3mm ID, 7mm OD, 2mm Thick). I test fitted the pill and moved back the O-ring enough so it didn't block the pill going in all the way, but was not pushed back down real far either. As per Chimo's suggestion, I put some silicone on the inside of the head by the hole for the LED as I re-installed everything. Then I re-crimped the head. Now it should be just as sturdy as new and close to same water proof (silicone). The inner negative contact on the board (like the IU has), was not used on mine as when I opened it, there was epoxy covering it. So I didn't worry about epoxy getting on mine either. I just made sure the outside crimp touched well.

Note I didn't re-pot the whole head like they are from the factory as I figured that would be messy and get on the reflector or LED or roll-crimp. How they do it from the factory is from the 2 holes in the back of the board. They put the LED board back in and press it in (the led bottoms out on the hole in the head) and crimp the head. Then they inject epoxy/whatever into one hole and the other hole is for air to escape. That way epoxy can't leak around the reflector or interfer with roll crimping process.

greenLED: I found the new NichiaCS LED's are a lot smoother & less splotchy than the previous BS LED. I picked the smoothest one from the bunch I had for my Arc. Also my new CS LED was directly centered, and the old LED I took out was off-center in the epoxy of the 5mm package, giving an off-set hotspot. GITD Arc, good idea! Hmm surprise? ...


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## greenLED (Sep 25, 2005)

are you reading my mind? Thanks for the o-ring dimensions! I got "needle-happy" and punctured the o-ring on two sides when I was cleaning the epoxy. Now I have an excuse to visit my friend the hardware store owner.  Thanks for the epoxy and silicone tips also. I tried to pot a pill inside a "can" one but the epoxy dripped all over the contacts and I had a dead head. :green:

I hope to have pics by next week. Surprise? Let's just say it's shiny...


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 29, 2005)

My oring had several punctures, tears, and was ground off partly from me holding the epoxy to a grind wheel (just around the top of the led. I dunno why I did that. ... I really don't other than test the hardness out..

When you put epoxy over everything, make sure you have a thick wall going up to the base of the LED, so when it cures, pressure can't cause the LED legs to buckle. I put masking tape around the LED and the back side of the board to protect it from any mess until it hardened.

Waiting for pics... Hmm. stripped the anno? Nekkid arc! eeek! not for me!  But hey if you like it bare....


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## xochi (Oct 10, 2005)

Thanks guys!

While I destroyed the pill in one turq arc the second arc AAA is now as bright as a 3.99 energizer neck light (the light I scavenged my nichia cs led from) and has a much nicer beam. Upgrading the LED turned this light that just sat in a drawer into a sweet little bugger. It kicks butt and if I could find some cheap old AAA arcs I'd do quite a few.


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## IsaacHayes (Oct 10, 2005)

The engergizer has Nichia *CS* leds in it? wow.


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## greenLED (Oct 12, 2005)

OK, so finally tonight I had some time to take pics of the mod. Here's what I did:

Transplanted the original LED with a Nichia CS, U-bin, C0 (from Grumpy's groupbuy). The original LED was dimmer, its beam was blotchier, and much yellower than the new one.
Stripped the anodizing and polished the body, head, and reflector. :naughty:
Added some GID onto the LED for some ferociously bright green glow :wow:
I still need to crimp the head completely again, and re-pot the "pill". I guess I need some syringes for that but when I asked at a local pharmacy they looked at me as if I was a drug addict or something. 
Onto the pics:

Here's the naked Arc AAA in its full shine:





Can someone say _slightly _ polished reflector? 





I'm going to spare you the pain of looking at my beamshots :sick2:, but instead I leave you with a pseudo-beamshot and a (now retaken) glow-shot:


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## Sprocketman (Nov 17, 2005)

Does anybody know what the potting material is in the Arc aaa? I want to replace mine when I put the pill back in.

Thanks.


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## chimo (Nov 17, 2005)

Sprocketman said:


> Does anybody know what the potting material is in the Arc aaa? I want to replace mine when I put the pill back in.
> 
> Thanks.



It's a potting/encapsulating epoxy. (Google it - you'll get lots of hits).


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## cy (Nov 17, 2005)

Please don't destroy your good Arc AAA head :green: I've got two heads sets available for $16 shipped conus. 

one is new uncrimped empty and other is dead loaded.


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## IsaacHayes (Nov 17, 2005)

GreenLED: ah the glow looks good. Why didn't you stop me before I had mine re-potted?  What did you use to apply the glow powder? Looks pretty bright! BTW what did you polish the reflector with?


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## greenLED (Nov 17, 2005)

IsaacHayes said:


> GreenLED: ah the glow looks good. Why didn't you stop me before I had mine re-potted?  What did you use to apply the glow powder? Looks pretty bright! BTW what did you polish the reflector with?



Sorry to hear it's a bit too late. There's always the next one!  Maybe CY's still got a few extras.

I used ultra green paint from glowinc and painted about 4-5 coats on the bottom of the LED. There's enough light reflected backwards to charge it really nice. It actually projects a green glow forward when fully charged :naughty: Not much help in locating the light, though, since it's off and in my pocket as EDC, but still good.

I used to polish my reflectors by hand using increasingly finer grit sandpaper, and finishing with toothpaste. But that takes too long, and now that I have a Dremel...  

I used a conical felt tip and some metal polish I found at the local hardware store, nothing fancy. I do that for a couple of minutes. Then, I soak a piece of old cloth (the same one I use to polish wax off my car -it's really soft cloth) in the metal polish, and turn the reflector by hand for a long while. I finish off with Flitz :naughty:

I did notice that the Dremel leaves slight horizontal lines in the polish, which I didn't get when I did the entire process by hand. You don't see the lines in any of the pics I've taken (or if you hold the reflector at arms length), but they're there. 

Hope this helps.

*Sprocketman: *I used 2 ton epoxy, 24 hour curing type.
__________________


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## Donald (Nov 18, 2005)

I don't know if it would work but various compounds used in charging a leather strop for honing knives might also work for polishing. There are multiple sources, some more reasonably priced than others. I got mine at HandAmerican which is the only one I know off the top of my head. You probably only need the finest which is 10,000 grit chromium oxide which is green. (I see now they are saying .5 microns or 60,000 grit....perhaps I should just say extra fine!)

Someone sanded the paint on my front door and sanded the view port too. You could not see anything. I first used silicon carbide powder, about 800 grit and rubbed for a while, as the scratches were fairly coarse. I then finished up with the 10,000 grit. The ones I have came with my hone and are dry powders.

I did see a reference to a large block of green oxide which presumably has a wax base. It was a good buy. I could probably locate the link, but I do not know if one would want the wax residue. 

You need to keep this away from moving parts. An example. Stropping a fixed blade is no problem. Just wash the residue off afterwards. With a folder, however, one needs to avoid getting it in the pivot point as it would abrade with every close and open of the knife. It is difficult to get it all out.


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## greenLED (Dec 30, 2005)

greenLED said:


> *Sprocketman: *I used 2 ton epoxy, 24 hour curing type.



Stop, right there, Mister!!  

I just had one ArcAAA head die on me _after _potting it with this type of epoxy (yes, it' tested fine, outside the head, after the crimp was secured again, it won't power up properly after potting). I've had sammies quit working after epoxying, but not an Arc head (this is the first one in 11 I've handled so far). 

Nevertheless, more knowledgeable modders have suggested that I use RTV silicone or StixAll for future potting. These materials are softer and should provide equal (if not greater) crush protection and water-proofness compared to epoxy.

I can't tell you how horrible it is to have a dead Arc head in your hands.


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