# LiteFlux LF2 questions, feedback & suggestions



## LED Cool (Mar 29, 2007)

Some CPF'er will be receiving their LF2 soon and some have used it for a month or more. This thread purpose is to introduce the LF2 and collects all user's

first impressions of LF2.
opinions and comments on the design, features & operation of the LF2 and 
suggestions for improvement in any aspects. 

whether these are positive or negative are welcome. 

also for those who are considering a LiteFlux LF2 but have questions about certain issues, you may find the answers in this thread. if not please post your questions here as well. 

First some introductions for those who are new to the LiteFlux LF2.

The LiteFlux LF2 is, AFAIK, the first AAA CREE LED light with the following unique features & functions.

2 stage output with user controllable brightness.
No PWM flickering at extreme low output.
BVI - Battery Voltage Indicator. 
OP - Overdischarge protection for Alkaline, NICD, NIMH & Li-Ion rechargeable battery.
Strobe - 2 stage strobe with user controllable brightness and frequency.
SOS - 2 stage SOS output with user controllable brightness. (cycle repeats is 3 seconds).

Some official photos.
Wooden gift box




Contents (Accessories include Diffuser, 3 spare O rings and silicon lubricant)






















LED : CREE XR-E
Input voltage : 0.9V - 5.0V (AAA/10440)
AAA battery chemistry : Alkaline(1.5V), NIMH(1.2V), NICD(1.2), Primary Lithium(1.7V) & rechargeable Li-Ion 10440(4.2V)
Uses PWM at high frequency 7800Hz. No flickering at 0.2% output
Removeable Orange peel aluminium reflector (Diameter 12mm, Depth 8mm)
AR Coated glass lens (Diameter 12mm, thickness 1mm)
HA III black finish
Single o ring seal at lens, LED module & battery tube.
3 positions twisting action for on/off and programming : off, P1, P2
Tighten for off. Reduce the chances of losing the complete head (bezel & LED module)
Lock out mode : loosen 2 turns
Stable tail stand
Tail end has 2 round holes and 2 elongated holes for various size keyrings
Area lighting with diffuser installed
All parts can be dismantle by hand or using a sharp tweezer
water resistant
patent pending for the 2 stage mechanism and battery voltage indicator
beam diameter at 1 metre is approximately 1 metre as well
* FOUR (4) operating modes*

1. Standard mode - 2 output. default at 15% brightness & 50% brightness

2. User adjustable mode - default at 50%. Adjustable to 0.2% (8 seconds) or 100% (8 seconds)

3. Strobe mode - 2 stobes. default 1 Hz at 50% brightness & 15.6 Hz at 100% brightness

4. SOS mode - 2 SOS brightness. default 6.5% & 50%. cycle repeats every 3 seconds

all of the above mentioned output and frequencies can be user programmable via the programming function.

*
 FIVE (5) Extra functions*

1. Battery voltage indicator - works on Alkaline, NIMH & Lithium Ion battery 

2. Programming function - User can define the output and frequencies of the 4 operating modes mentioned above

3. Demo function - Will display all available brightness and frequencies of the four operating modes. Demo runs for a few minutes and revert back to previous mode

4. Overdischarge protection for rechargeable batteries - works on NICD, NIMH & Lithium Ion battery (4.2V, 10440)

5. Factory reset - Restore EEPROM back to factory default settings for all operating modes & extra functions


*Turn Off Memory (TOM)*

The LiteFlux LF2 has a unique design in its software code. i personally called it Turn Off Memory (TOM). TOM remember the last operating mode before the light is turn off. the next time the user turns on the light, it will turn on in the last operating mode (i.e. previous mode). 
 
for example, if you use your LF2 mainly as strobe light or SOS, you do not need to go through the process of selecting strobe or SOS again everytime you turn it on.

with NetKidz's permission, here are more photos.

Size comparison with LiteFlux LF1




with diffuser screw on




LF2 taken apart.




Bezel with deep orange peel aluminium reflector




Tail has 2 round holes and 2 elongated holes.




Left:LF2, Right:LF1




No flickering because PWM is 7800Hz.
Top is LF2 (0.2%), middle is C-LE (low) and the bottom is MK.II X (5%)





There is a thread, started by zz6557, on the LiteFlux LF2 with more photos by NetKidz and antc_tw2002 in the CPF LED section.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/150055


and an informative mini review thread by NetKidz, with more photos by ynda.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/154068


i hope this thread will serve to provide as much information as possible on the LiteFlux LF2.

Thank you
khoo


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## LED Cool (Mar 29, 2007)

reserved.

khoo


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## Stef (Mar 29, 2007)

On this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HE9r75bQgv8
I don't understand how it is possible to switch the light by pressing the tube.
Stef


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## LED Cool (Mar 29, 2007)

hello Stef, welcome to CPF!

to understand how the press operation works, let us take a look at the inside of the head.





the small round post in the middle is the battery positive contact post and it is fixed in position. the surrounding larger contact ring is supported by a spring and can be press downwards.





the lip surface of the battery tube is bare aluminium and makes contact with the large contact ring (CR). by fully tightening the head or body, the lip press down completely on the contact ring (CR) and turns off the light.

the first part (15seconds) of the video shows pressing is done by just slightly twisting the head from OFF. this twisting allows the CR to raise up (due to spring action) and turn on the light. consider this position of CR as P1. there is some free play in the threads of both the head and body, so by pressing the head or body, the CR goes down and turn off the light. release the pressure and the CR moves up to P1 and turn on the light.

are you still with me? i hope i can make myself clear.

the rest of the video shows pressing operation is done by twisting the head further away from OFF. this further twisting action will raise the CR higher and we shall call this higher position as P2.

please note that while the CR is at both P1 & P2 position, the body lip is still in contact with the CR thereby completing the power source(battery) circuit. further twisting will break the circuit contact. (lock out mode is 1 1/2 turn from P2)

to identify P1 & P2, there is a laser engraved white dot on the head. 
OFF - fully tighten the head. the dot should align with the laser engraved flat surface "LiteFlux LF2" of the body.
P1 - 1/4 turn. the dot should align with the slot of the body.
P2 - another 1/4 turn from P1. i.e. 1/2 turn. the dot should align with the plain flat surface of the body.

to switch modes, a switching action (SW) has to be performed.
SW can be perform by twisting the dot from P1-P2-P1 or P2-P1-P2. each SW must be completed within 1 second.

to achieve SW by pressing instead of twisting, obviously only P2-P1-P2 works in press operation. so in the video, you can see that the head is twisted to P2 before any pressing is done to change operating mode or access the battery voltage indicator.

one press represent SW x 1, the video shows 3 presses to strobe, 4 presses to SOS and 1 press back to standard mode. you can also see that by twisting to P1 while in different mode, a different strobe/output is shown. also while in fast strobe, battery voltage indicator was accessed with 5 presses. after reporting the voltage, the light goes back to fast strobe.

also the LF2 has a turn off memory (TOM). when turn OFF, it will remember the last operating mode. the next time the LF2 is turn ON, it goes into that mode.

there are 4 operating mode
SW x 1 - standard mode with 2 stage output (P1 & P2)
SW x 2 - user adjustable mode (refer to manual)
SW x 3 - strobe mode with 2 output and frequencies (P1 & P2)
SW x 4 - SOS mode with 2 output (P1 & P2)

and 5 extra functions
SW x 5 - battery voltage indicator
SW x 6 - programming function
SW x 7 - demo function
SW x 8 - overdischarge protection for rechargeable battery
SW x 10 - factory reset

i hope my long explanation can help you better understand the workings of the LF2. if you have more questions, please do not hesitate to post them here.

Khoo


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## Phredd (Mar 29, 2007)

*Two levels isn't enough*

The ability to set the levels is great. For me, it's essential since no other light will ever start with a low enough low. The programming takes quite a bit of getting used to, both learning to feel where P1 and P2 are and how to leave modes.

I think at least three levels are needed: low, medium and high. I set P1 to low, P2 to medium and then switch to adjustable mode for 50%. I suggest that SW*2 should enter levels 3 and 4; SW*3 should be adjustable mode. Or with four levels, adjustable mode could be eliminated for simplicity.

Phredd


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## Phredd (Mar 29, 2007)

*Markings on the body*

I suggest you add two dots on the body; one at P1 and one at P2. GITD would be even nicer.

Thanks for the explanation of pressing while at P2 in place of SW. This will make switching modes and programming much easier. And since switching modes will be easier, there's no downside to adding a mode with two more user-defined levels.

Phredd


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## Calina (Mar 29, 2007)

Here are my impressions on the LF2.

I don't own one so this is going to be short...

It sure seems like a high quality light and it could be worth the asking price. I am very tempted to get one but it is just too expensive (for me anyway).


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## JJohn (Mar 30, 2007)

My LF2 is on its way (I think). I will post my opinions after it arrives and I have had a few days to play with it. 

I will tell you though that I was a bit dismayed that you didn't allow for three or four user setable/programmable output levels. That way a user could program his favorite levels (I too wanted a low low and the ability to set my own levels) and then never again mess with the other modes. I like Phredd's idea of SW2 getting you to levels 3 and 4. I don't mind complex UI's if I don't have to interface with them very often. I have an HDS U60 for backpacking and have set it up once and not messed with it since. It has four levels that I got to select for my uses.


That said, two programmable levels are better than none, which is what you get with any other light this easy to carry. I am anxious to get mine.

Just my thoughts.
John


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## PhantomPhoton (Mar 30, 2007)

I'll let you know as soon as I receive my LF2 w/ SSC


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## LED Cool (Mar 30, 2007)

phredd,
the extra two levels (3 & 4) in SWx2 is a very good suggestions. i like it too. i personally seldom use the user adjustable mode. i will pass your suggestion to LiteFlux. :thumbsup:

calina,
i understand your view. for its price you do get the function of a few lights in one light.
EDC light, strobe light, beacon light, SOS light, camping/tent light all in one with user programmable output.

phantomphoton,
hey where do you get your LF2 with SSC LED? AFAIK, the SSC version is not out yet. is it a mod? 

thank you guys for the feedback. keep them coming.
khoo


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## PhantomPhoton (Mar 30, 2007)

LED Cool said:


> phredd,
> phantomphoton,
> hey where do you get your LF2 with SSC LED? AFAIK, the SSC version is not out yet. is it a mod?
> khoo



That's exactly my point! I'm still waiting for it to become available... THEN I'll buy one and let you know what I think of it.


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## luminari (Apr 2, 2007)

I'm interested in this light, but I can't find its lumen output anywhere, even with the search function. It's kind of like asking someone to buy a car without know how many horsepower it has. What's the max lumen output on high using NIMH cells?

Thanks.


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## LED Cool (Apr 3, 2007)

hello luminari,

thank you for your interest in LF2.

LiteFlux did not state an actual lumens output because they do not have a intergrating sphere to measure the actual output of LF2.

I have an AAA CREE light with multi-mode which is popular in CPF (light X). personally, i would say the LF2 output, at 100% running on NIMH, is compareable to my light X at HIGH running on NIMH. my guestimate LF2 max output on NIMH would be 30 to 40 lumens.

thanks
khoo


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## itch808 (Apr 3, 2007)

I don't own one but I can say that from everything I've seen the LF2 looks to be a great buy. Still debating whether or not to buy one or wait for the new Phillips LEDs to start hitting the market.


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## LED Cool (Apr 3, 2007)

hello itch808,

i would say the LF2 is the most versatile AAA EDC light currently available in the market. have you read the review thread by netkidz?

khoo


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## JJohn (Apr 4, 2007)

I have only had the light for one day but, I do have some comments on the UI at this point. The UI is fine, not ideal, but fine when in a lit room. However, I really struggled to use the "adjustable" mode outside when in a dark area. Why does this matter? Well, that is when we use lights, in the dark. 

While in the dark, it was very difficult for me to ensure I had rotated the bezel to the proper position for the "press" method to work. It was even more difficult to ensure I rotated the bezel to the proper P1 or P2 position to use the twist method. There needs to be some better tactile feedback if this UI is going to be used in dark environments. I found myself wanting another flashlight to see how I was operating the LF2. Note that this is only for modes beyond "Standard".

As far as I am concerned, with the current UI and my abilities to use it, the LF2 is a great little user-programmable two-stage light. You configure the two levels when you have time in a well-lit room. Then you can use it very easily in the field. It is trivial and intuitive to twist to "ON-level 1" twist a bit more to "level 2". Beyond that, in the field, to use the other modes, I find it a struggle.

I would gladly buy several more LF2's if I could easily pick 3-4 levels and then access them quickly, without thinking, in a dark environment.

Last comment for now, when setting the levels, I found it difficult to tell where I was as it seemed that a stepless linear ramp in output was applied. I prefer the HDS method where you can count levels from 1-20. These levels are also on a log scale better matching the response of our eyes.


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## Calina (Apr 4, 2007)

JJohn said:


> Last comment for now, when setting the levels, I found it difficult to tell where I was as it seemed that a stepless linear ramp in output was applied. I prefer the HDS method where you can count levels from 1-20. These levels are also on a log scale better matching the response of our eyes.


 
HDS has the best way to do it. Steps have to be on a log or geometric scale, certainly not on a linear one.


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## suvdave (Apr 4, 2007)

I just received my LF2 today. I'm impressed! I bought this over the less expensive L0D-CE because I wanted a really low level. This one is perfect. In Standard mode, I programmed it so P1 is at the lowest level and P2 is at 100%. If I need something in between, I give the head two quick twists, and I'm at 50% (using the user adjustable mode, which defaults to 50%). All the fancy modes are out of the way, so you needn't worry about them unless you want to. The strobe mode is nice for catching someones attention.


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## effulgentOne (Apr 4, 2007)

Calina said:


> Steps have to be on a log or geometric scale, certainly not on a linear one.



I agree completely. I've had my LF2 for a few weeks, and I think the UI is okay once you get used to it (that took me a few days), but it is very annoying that the brightness adjustment appears to be linear, especially in manual mode.

Otherwise it's a great light if you need a low low more than a high high (for that I have a P1D CE)


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## luminari (Apr 4, 2007)

Hey, those that own it, how reliable is that complicated spring-loaded switching mechanism? Is there any flickering or quality issues?


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## Phredd (Apr 4, 2007)

I totally agree that it's too difficult to use the other modes in the dark. And it happened to me again - my two programmed levels reset - I think to 50%. Maybe mine's defective.

Phredd


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## Spak (Apr 4, 2007)

I have had no issues with flickering, the quality is pretty good, better than my P1D-CE.

I have had to use the reset function a few times now since the UI is tricky and can leave you in some unexpected mode if you screw it up.

P1-P2-P1-P2-P1-P2-P1-P2-P1-P2-P1-P2-P1-P2-P1-P2-P1-P2-P1-P2


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## JJohn (Apr 4, 2007)

So far, I think the quality is excellent. Absolutely no flickering issues. One other surprise, the switch is solid when being bounced around during a hard run. I worried that vibration and shock might cause it to change modes but, this is not at all the case. It seems solid.


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## gswitter (Apr 4, 2007)

I'm a big fan of the LF1 - my favorite Luxeon-base AA light. After EDCing an Arc AAA-P for a couple years, I upgraded to an L0D CE a couple months ago, but I've never given it more than interim EDC status, because I've been waiting on the LF2. I've been playing with the LF2 for about a week now.

First and foremost, I like the beam. It's astonishingly smooth for a Cree XR-E, especially considering the minimal reflector. I don't have a decent camera for beam shots, but the best description I can come up with for the beam is L4-lite. Actually, Amilite Neo T5-lite is probably more accurate, because the output is very white.

The two programmable modes are big plusses, and being able to choose between off->high->low and off->low->high eliminates one point of contention. I also really like that you don't have to cycle through all the other modes to get back to the standard mode - my biggest gripe about most of the multi-mode lights I've tried.

The candle mode and diffuser are nice touches, but as with the LF1, I probably won't use them much. I do like that the emitter is exposed for easy potential modding. And the voltage indicator mode is interesting, albeit gimmicky.

Now about that UI... My colleagues and I have a saying: "looks like the engineers were in charge of design". (We're engineers, BTW.) The LF2 defintely falls under that category. It's not that it's necessarily bad, but it's awkward, and there's nothing even remotely intuitive about it. It's the kind of UI that probably sounded great to whomever came up with it, but he/she should have gotten a second (and third) opinion. Granted, cramming this many features into a device with only a single input source creates some challenges, but that's generally an indication that a device has too many features and/or two few input sources.

Other people have already voiced their gripes about the user adjust mode, and I agree. Cycling up or down feels more like 30 seconds than 8.

I do like that the modes are ordered (IMO) according to usefulness, and, again, I love that I don't have to cycle through the modes that I don't care about. And, I like that the defaults for the two strobe modes demonstrate the potential/benefits of those programmable settings.

But that programming mode. Even for a UI as awkward/complex as this, the programming mode seems like an afterthought. At least they recognised this, and added a restore defaults mode (very necessary).

The one thing I do like about the UI is once I manage to set the two standard output level, I don't really need it. If I ever need the strobe or SOS modes, I'm probably in trouble, but I've yet to find a need for those in any other light, so that's OK.

UI quibbles aside, I have two primary gripes. First is with the output. I've done side-by-side comparisons with the LOD CE using fresh Eneloops, L92s and 10440s, and the Fenix has noticeably better throw and spill. The LF2 easily wins the beauty contest (pretty beam on the white wall), but I can't see a light meter rating the LF2 anywhere near the LOD CE. The LF2 output is certainly good, and better than any AAA light other than the LOD CE I've tried to date. The quality of the LF2's beam makes a significant difference to my eyes for short throw duty, but the lesser quality of the LOD CE becomes insignificant beyond ~15 feet.

My other big gripe is the twisting range of P2. Starting from OFF, P1 is reached in about a quarter turn, and the light stays in P1 for nearly another quarter turn. So by my definition, P1 has a twisting range of roughy a quarter turn. P2 has a twisting range of maybe a millimeter or two. I don't know if this is the case with all of the LF2's, but if I don't have the dot at dead center of the flat side, P2 is generally not recognised. If I start at P2, rotating more than a millimeter in either direction causes the output to flicker noticeably. Subsequently, SW via twisting is difficult at best, and near impossible in the dark. And, SW via pressing the head in P2 often fails because I twist the head slightly as I'm pressing it. This latter point is especially annoying because my hands are too big for the grip shown in the video, and I have yet to find a one handed grip that works for me. I can SW by pressing the head against my other palm, but doing so without adding a slight twist to the head is a little tricky.

Overall, there's a lot to like about the LF2, and it has a number of interesting/unique features. But for now, the LOD CE will remain my pocket light.


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## luminari (Apr 5, 2007)

Man, there is so much to like about this light: The diffuser is a great idea, though they should make it shorter; the emitter is exposed and the head un-epoxied (Fenix, lighten up!), and most importantly, it's programmable so that I can get my 100% on, and the people next door get their 1% as they like it. It also supports lithium-ions as advertised, none of that silly Fenix "at your own risk" BS., and it also has that low voltage warning which is actually great considering most 10440's are not protected.

Most comparison shots I've seen show the LF2 as having a smaller spillbeam and dimmer hotspot than the Fenix L0D-CE...

If they could somehow "fix" the lower output of the LF2 to match the Fenix, I'll buy at least three of them.


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## JJohn (Apr 5, 2007)

gswitter said:


> First is with the output...
> 
> 
> 
> ...My other big gripe is the twisting range of P2. Starting from OFF, P1 is reached in about a quarter turn, and the light stays in P1 for nearly another quarter turn. So by my definition, P1 has a twisting range of roughy a quarter turn. P2 has a twisting range of maybe a millimeter or two.




I agree with most of your views, and as an engineer, I had to laugh at your line "the engineers were in charge of the design". So true.

On the output comment: Yes, the output seems slightly less than the Fenix but I think the runtime is slightly longer at the high level and for me, for this size light, it is sufficiently bright. Not an issue at all for me.

On the switch comment: this would be a showstopper for me. Luckily, my LF2 is quite different. P1 has about a quarter of a turn range. P2 has even more range. It starts from the beginning of the flat and goes over a half turn. This makes for easy one-handed "Standard mode" use while not having to look at the light's body. Even for the "press" method of doing SW cycles I have well over a quarter turn slop in the P2 position. Perhaps there is an issue with your LF2 . Maybe a battery length difference could cause this. I am currently using L92's.


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## effulgentOne (Apr 5, 2007)

luminari said:


> Hey, those that own it, how reliable is that complicated spring-loaded switching mechanism? Is there any flickering or quality issues?




Mine did actually have some issues at first:

It worked fine for a few days, but then it stopped going to P2 and the head wouldn't fully tighten onto the body anymore. It turns out the contact ring in the head had unscrewed from the switch mechanism, and was loose in the head (along with two springs that were underneath it). I don't know if all LF2's are prone to such failure, or if mine was defective (not enough locktite?)

Anyway, I noticed that I was able to screw the assembly back together very carefully with an eraser. I did this, and the problem went away ... until it unscrewed again (Note: looking under a magnifier, I determined that the threads on the ring and inside the head were intact and had not been stripped). I dabbed a little glue on the threads of the ring, and carefully screwed it in, then waited for the glue to dry. I haven't had another problem yet.


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## JJohn (Apr 6, 2007)

Question: My LF2 has been working great for the first two days I have had it. Today, when I was playing around with the adjustable mode, it sort of locked up. Probably user error. The result is that I can't get it to do anything. After turning it on at P1 it sits idle for about 10 seconds then strobes at what looks like a 2 Hz rate for a few seconds, then it shuts down. I have tried the obvious (single SW cycle, 10 SW's, pull out battery, and 3SW's) and nothing seems to work. Any suggestions? I seemed to have put it into a mode that I don't recognize.

John


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## JJohn (Apr 6, 2007)

Problem solved: a reset command done while it was still in the weird strobe mode solved the problem. If the 10 SW occurred before or after the strobe, nothing happened. If performed during that period it did do a reset.


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## JJohn (Apr 19, 2007)

After using this light in a variety of situations (camping, hikes, around the house, at work) I can only further reiterate the comments you have already received:

1) In actual use, in a dark environment I cannot see the little white dot that is used to indicate position. Make this a bump and I might have a chance. A click might even be better. Without some form of tactile feedback it is just a guess what position the light is in, especially if you tend to use the light one-handed. The way I use the light now is I program my two levels in a lighted room using both hands. Then in use, I twist the bezel until the light first comes on (I know I'm in P1). I twist some more until the light goes to my second level. Then I am in P2. The output level is the only way I can tell what position I am in. In this way this light acts as a great programmable 2-stage light which is actually easier to use than other recently introduced 3-stage lights. Unfortunately, I find it nearly impossible to use the other modes if it is fully dark.

2) Reduce the number of possible output levels for programming and adjustable mode to around 10 or so. Make them a geometric progression. Right now it is very hard to determine what level you have selected until you have programmed it and then it is a pain to do it all again if you find out it wasn't where you thought you set it.

3) A third and fourth set level would be awesome! I would gladly sacrifice all the other features to have four easily accessible user set-able levels. I know for others, things like strobes are important.

4) Check for software issues. With daily use for about two weeks I have had one "glitch" where my levels were reset.

5) If there is anyway to make it smaller, do it. Of course do so only if you can without effecting beam profile.

This is a great light and oh so close to being perfect for me. The PWM is beautifully implemented, way above any possible human detection. The ability to set any levels from very low to full power is great. The useability beyond two stage is lacking. Most of the work suggested here is code changes. Maybe you could even offer two versions of the UI (simple use and full featured). Just my thought, others might have differring opinions.


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## osalsa (May 6, 2007)

I've been using my LF2 for a couple of weeks now, somewhat skeptically as an EDC. It has the three most important features I need in an EDC: single AAA, default low level at first on, and quick access to a brighter level. I haven't used the programming function because I'm satisfied with the default levels. The default low level is very comparable to my Fenix EO output, which gives 10hrs use per cell with each light. That's good. I wear it around my neck, and it only takes 1/8 turn or less to turn on. That's good too. I like the beam. Nine times out of ten, the wide, diffuse spillbeam is what I want. Very occasionally I want more throw, but you can't have everything. 

Now for the gripes. Only two, really. First, the UI is cumbersome, and with unnecessary modes like SOS (really, now!) Second, the user adjustable mode setting I program in is lost when it's turned off. It takes too much time and effort to set it if you have to redo it every time you need to use it! I would like to set in a very low level to use in candle mode early in the AM (astonishing runtime when low low) when I am up and my sweet darlin' is still sleeping, but it's too much trouble, so I don't. (BTW, the low low is also a PERFECT level for those before-sleep bedroom activities, like discussing the day's events) My suggestion: make the user adjustable mode easy to change, but keep it in memory until it is changed.

But it's looking like this LF2 might just be reliable enuf to be an EDC. With the features I consider essential mixed in with the gee whiz stuff I don't want, it's still the best I've found so far.

Jim


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## LED Cool (May 7, 2007)

hello osalsa,

thank you for the feedback.

i have discussed with LiteFlux regarding the user adjustable mode memory issue. they said future model such as LF3, LF4 & LF5 will have the user adjusted output store in memory. so there will be three output levels, all of which are adjustable by the user.

khoo


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## Grubbster (May 7, 2007)

LED Cool said:


> hello osalsa,
> 
> thank you for the feedback.
> 
> ...


Khoo,
Any news on when these new models will be out? I lost my LF2 the other day :mecry: and I may wait till a newer model comes out for replacement.


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## LED Cool (May 7, 2007)

sometime in June i think.


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## Krahl (May 7, 2007)

LED Cool,
do you know when the cree drop in for the LF1 will come out? 
I`m waiting desperately for it.


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## r0b0r (May 7, 2007)

osalsa said:


> BTW, the low low is also a PERFECT level for those before-sleep bedroom activities...



*giggles*


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## sixfellas (May 22, 2007)

so if this light stores last modes does it take any power when it is in the off position?


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## JJohn (May 22, 2007)

The LF2 writes your programmed levels to flash RAM non-volatile memory, so it does not use power to keep the micro-controller running when the light is turned off. I would assume that the adjust mode would also make use of the non-volatile memory.

That is the way I would design it, at least.


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## NetKidz (May 22, 2007)

sixfellas said:


> so if this light stores last modes does it take any power when it is in the off position?


 
Yes, it draws a very small current depending on battery voltage. The maximum would be with a full charged li-ion battery and it's about 15uA. I think it could be ignored. For a 1000mAh battery, it'll be about 2700 days.


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## Calina (May 22, 2007)

LED Cool said:


> hello osalsa,
> 
> i have discussed with LiteFlux regarding the user adjustable mode memory issue. they said future model such as LF3, LF4 & LF5 will have the user adjusted output store in memory. so there will be three output levels, all of which are adjustable by the user.
> 
> khoo


 
Three levels would also be nice for the LF2.


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## carlsjrman (May 22, 2007)

Has anyone had any issues with the LF2's switch? Is the two stage mechanism essentially the same as the one used in the LF1? I really love my LF1, but recently the two stage switch stopped working. It's probably just a contact problem that can be solved by using deoxit, but I feel like it's a liability. If the LF2 switch is different, I think I'll have to buy one!


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## sixfellas (Jun 3, 2007)

Well, received my SSC LF2 and am somewhat suprised by the runtime. i get about 30 minutes on 100% power with a 800 mha and just slightly longer with a 1000 mha. In addition, this little sucker gets hot! My L0D doesn't quite do double the runtime, but close. This normal for any of you other SSC LF2 owners?


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## Krit (Jun 3, 2007)

I set only 50% brightness in hi and it give plenty of light for my use. No hot comming up at all. Very gool light for me.


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## luigi (Jun 4, 2007)

I got mine and I love it, I really like how it can be programmed.

I set up:
P1: Minimum
P2: Max
I can use variable brightness for something in the middle.
P1 Strobe: Tactical, max brightness, min flash and interval
P2 Strobe: Locator Beacon, min brightness, min flash and max interval

The SOS modes are nice for a backpack beacon when hiking.

Thumbs up for this great little light!

Luigi


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## bruner (Jun 9, 2007)

khoo,

I have an idea for an accessory that I think would really enhance carry options.

So, here it is on my keychain. It has replaced my old but reliable ARC AAA Original.





Our cat Joe really likes this light too...





And now, my "neat idea"... I would love to carry this light on my keychain with the standard head attached (as I feel that this is the way that I would use the light the most). However, I love the diffuser attachment and the possibility of using it, but would like a way to carry it on my keychain as well, just in case I need it.

Most of us here are familiar with "pill fobs" also known as "spy capsules". Well, I have one here to use for demonstration purposes only.





Since I all ready plan on carrying the FlexLite LF2 on my keychain, wouldn't it be great to also be able to carry the diffuser on my keychain too? Here is a way that it could be done and serve a dual purpose... The diffuser is about the same size as a "pill fob" or "spy capsule". In order to keep the diffuser on your keychain, all that would be required would be to make a "screw cap" for it that you could attach to your keychain and use it as a pill fob / spy capsule until you need to use it as a diffuser for your flashlight.

Now keep in mind that the cap to my spy capsule does not fit / mate up with the diffuser for the FlexLite LF2. I am only using it to demonstrate. But here is what the diffuser might look like as a pill fob / spy capsule on a keychain.





If / when using the diffuser, you would need a way to store the standard reflector head. Well, since it would be threaded the same, you could simply store it on your keychain using the the pill fob / spy capsule cap, as demonstrated here.





So, to finalize this idea and demonstrate the possibility and usefullness of this concept, here are two shots of my keychain. This first shot shows the LiteFlux LF2 on my keychain with it's standard reflector head attached and the diffuser being utilized as a spy capsule / pill fob.





This second shot shows the LiteFlux LF2 on my keychain with the diffuser head attached and the standard reflector head being stored on the cap of the spy capsule / pill fob.





All that LiteFlux would have to do is produce/provide a simple screw cap. Something with a hole and a split-ring that one could attache to one's keychain. This would enable one to carry the LiteFlux LF2 and it's diffuser head at all times and provide the user with a keychain storage option (the spy capsule / pill fob) for life saving Aspirin pills, or Nitroglycerin pills, or (not so life saving) headache pills, or antacid pills or a folded up $20 bill... Or, whatever else you can thing of.

Ideally, this "screw cap" would be made from the same black, anodized aluminum as the flashlight body itself. But personally, I wouldn't complain if it was made from the same plastic as the diffuser head...

To me, this would bring my keychain one step closer to keychain Nirvana (I have almost achieved perfection).


Dan


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## Ice (Jun 9, 2007)

I'm not that fond of the diffuser, but that's a nice idea actually!


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## bruner (Jun 10, 2007)

Ice said:


> I'm not that fond of the diffuser, but that's a nice idea actually!


 
Thanks Ice.

I'm eagerly awaiting khoo's response to this idea.

Dan


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## jumpstat (Jun 10, 2007)

LED Cool said:


> they said future model such as LF3, LF4 & LF5 will have the user adjusted output store in memory. so there will be three output levels, all of which are adjustable by the user.
> 
> khoo


Cool :twothumbs . Having so much fun with the LF2.....Only one concern is the external texture. Currently its slippery when wet (not good for sweaty hands). Some micro crenelations as grips would do wonders.......


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## LED Cool (Jun 12, 2007)

there is a concern on the runtime issue of both version of LF2. this post serves to clarifies a few factors concerning the above issue.

ok. guys, time to clear up the runtime issue.

i did my own runtime test on 3 pcs of brand new LF2 CREE from different batch of delivery from LiteFlux. these 3 had a tint towards the yellowish side (warm white?) so i kept them aside waiting to exchange them for a better tint at a later date.

the test was done using 3pcs of brand new (2 weeks) Sanyo 1000mAh NMH batteries. battery voltage measured are 1.36V & 1.42V respectively. 
the first 2 times i did the test with batteries which have been rested for one day, hence the 1.36V. another 2 times i did it with batteries fresh off the charger, hence 1.42V.

the test was done at 100% output. also i did not dedicated one particular battery to each LF2 CREE test sample. meaning battery A could have been used in any of the test samples.

a total of 4 runtime test were done and with each test i got 3 different results. i did not use a Lux meter to measure the hotspot/spill brightness.

LF2 CREE A 43mins, 44mins, 45mins, 46mins
LF2 CREE B 63mins, 61mins, 66mins, 65mins
LF2 CREE C 85mins, 87mins, 90mins, 91mins

i am surprised by the runtime results as there are huge differences between them :thinking:. i called LiteFlux in Taiwan and we had a lengthy discussion.

LiteFlux explanation is that there are many reasons and factors that contributed to my runtime test rusults.

1. as some of us may know, CREE do not sort their LED by the Vf. 
so when LiteFlux bought the batch of CREE LED, they can only choose 
the bin (P3, which is the highest available at that time) and tint 
(which is also inconsistent, judging from the various tint that i got). 
LiteFlux claimed they got a wide range of tint and Vf in the same reel. 
(3.1V - 3.6V). so they had to sort out the low Vf from the high Vf and 
use/keep the low Vf for their first production batch. 
the sorting scale was in increment of 0.05V.

2. the LED driver/MCU circuit board is designed and manufactured in house 
by LiteFlux themselves. therefore they have control over the amount of 
current going into the CREE LED. Initially, they took into account of the
current discharge capacity of AAA battery and decided on the current
supplied to the CREE LED by the driver. 
this current range from 250ma - 290ma in order to match the Vf of the 
LED. higher Vf gets higher current. lower Vf gets lower current.
(if i recall correctly, the kind of matching will yield similar output
regardless of Vf?)

3. before the LF2 CREE was launched. there was a pre-sale held within
Taiwan. so netkidz probably got VERY lucky and got one LF2 CREE with a
very low Vf and current. hence the ultra long runtime plot. note it is 
inpractical for LiteFlux to keep track and label the Vf of each LF2.
(i also got lucky as i have a test sample here with ultra long runtime )

4. after the launching of LF2 CREE, users feedback was that the LF2 was
not bright enough at 100%. so LiteFlux easily up the LED current to 
280ma - 320ma as LF2 CREE comes off the production line. that explains
my 2nd shorter runtime results.

5. before launching the LF2 SSC P4, i had weekly discussion with LiteFlux. 
updates, differences between the 2 version etc. one of the most talked 
about subject was brightness. i always requested for higher output at
100% and runtme be damn. if the user wanted a longer runtime just use
the 50% or lower output. simple as that. 
LiteFlux knows they can feed more current to both LED, but has to
take into account the alkaline/NIMH battery discharge capability,
internal resistance and battery voltage dropped under high load.

For example, 
one can feed 500ma to the LED, (Vf 3.35V, assuming efficiency is 70%, 
battery current draw will be 2A, at the AAA battery limit and damaging) 
but the battery voltage under load will drop quickly and trigger the
overdischarge protection too early resulting an inpractical very short 
runtime on 100%. the light shuts down but there are still quite a lot of
energy left inside the battery.

To stike a balance, LiteFlux has decided, for both version LED, the max 
LED current be 330ma - 350ma. and they have also refine the Vf sorting 
scale to 0.01V! the CREE uses XRE P3 LED and the SSC P4 uses USXOIW 
SEOUL LED. I bin Vf is 3.25V - 3.50V. 
that means LiteFlux adjust/match the LED current to each individual
CREE and SSC P4 LED during assembly! WOW! 

6. as of 1st June, all version of LF2 will have the 330ma - 350ma LED
current. the tint in CREE will still be variable (warm white to cool 
white) but the SSC P4 will be consistent.

i hope this helps clear up any confusion about the LF2 runtime issue.
for those who are on the fence/hesitated on this LF2 CPF special promotion, i hope this will help you make a well informed decision.

thank you. 
khoo


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## Grubbster (Jun 12, 2007)

Thanks for the info khoo; useful as always. Since you did not use a light meter, what did you use for the end point of your runtime tests, the over discharge feature?

Speaking of that feature, could you tell me how it functions with the two different type of batteries, lithium and NiMH? How does it know the difference? Last night I was using a lithium and got the flashing warning. I changed the battery to a new NiMH and still got the warning flash. Does it need to be reset when switching chemistries?

By the way, I am really liking my light and I will order one of the cree soon, hopefully before your sale is over!

Any word on when a new AA light will be showing up?


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## LED Cool (Jun 12, 2007)

Hello Dan,

what a neat idea on the pill fob/diffuser combo. i will run it with LiteFlux and see what do they think. currently they are quite busy with production of LF2 and other developments. so i do not forsee them coming out with this accessory soon.

i think i might go find a machinist and ask them to make a few from stainless steel 304 or bare aluminium. then i can try out your neat idea and EDC my LF2 diffuser along with my keychain as well.

thanks.
khoo


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## LED Cool (Jun 12, 2007)

Hello Grubbster,

yes! you are right. i used the over discharge feature as the end point of the runtime tests.

the overdischarge protection (OP) feature works by detecting the battery voltage under load. how it does this is beyond me as i think it involved a deeper understanding of electronic components and circuit design.

for NIMH battery, it will slow flash 3 times every 40 seconds when the battery voltage under load has reached 1.0V. when 0.8V is detected, rapid flashing warning occurs for 6 seconds and the LF2 will shut off to prevent overdischarge.

for Li-Ion battery, it will slow flash 3 times every 40 seconds when the battery voltage under load has reached 3.0V. when 2.8V is detected, rapid flashing warning occurs for 6 seconds and the LF2 will shut off to prevent overdischarge.

the user do not need to reset the OP feature when changing battery chemistry. may i ask is your AAA NIMH recently fully charged or one that is left idle for quite some time? 

i found out one strange thing about my Sanyo 900mAh NIMH when using the OP feature.

i have 4pcs of Sanyo 900mAh NIMH bought last year. i used the same charger to charge them and rest them for one or two days. all 4pcs shows a voltage of 1.32V - 1.33V when i measured them using a multi-meter.

then, one by one, i put all 4pcs into the same LF2 with OP feature switched on. the 1st pair of the Sanyo 900mAh will run the LF2 at P2(50%) while the second pair will turn on the LF2 at P1(15%) BUT will activate the OP feature when i rotate the head to P2(50%). 

does that mean that the 2nd pair of Sanyo 900 mAh NIMH has aged and do not hold their charge as their used to? or does it indicate that the 2nd pair has a higher internal resistance?  thereby dropping the voltage quicker when the load is high. any advice or insight into this battery behaviour is much appreciated.

LiteFlux is working on the AA version of LF2. The LF5!

i will put aside one LF2 CREE for you.

thanks.
khoo


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## regulator (Jun 12, 2007)

Thanks LED Cool,

It doesn't suprise me the low runtimes on 100% considering the high current being delivered to the LED - 350mA at the LED. That is a LOT of current for such a small battery. This is as much as the Turbo setting on a Fenix P3D (about 1Amp draw from the battery!)

Another poster mentioned he set the high setting at 50%, which is still a lot of current being drawn from an AAA. This seams like a more "reasonable" high setting when using a NiMh battery or alkaline. 

It is nice being able to set your own power level settings (cool feature)- and Liteflux seems to have given people the ability to really MAX out on power if people want or the cell can provide it. I think that backing off on the power % will provide much more "resonable" runtime and light output. Afterall - its only a tiny AAA cell and can only hold so much energy. The law of deminishing returns starts to take effect the higher the power demands are made on the AAA cell.


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## Grubbster (Jun 12, 2007)

LED Cool said:


> the user do not need to reset the OP feature when changing battery chemistry. may i ask is your AAA NIMH recently fully charged or one that is left idle for quite some time?
> thanks.
> khoo



It is a fully charged Rayovac hybrid battery. I did not double check the voltage before I put it in, but I will next time I try this. Thanks for your response.

Rob


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## jumpstat (Jun 12, 2007)

Good to hear that a AA version, LF5 in the works. LF2 is my first LF product and its the SSC. 

Will there be a limited edition version say in SS316 with premium led? And maybe some custom engraving?

And instead of buying a complete new light, can I buy just the led head, possible?

I'm currently doing a runtime test at 100% brightness with an el-cheapo Tesco alkalines and its been running strong for 20 minutes. Shall post results later...


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## bruner (Jun 12, 2007)

LED Cool said:


> Hello Dan,
> ...i think i might go find a machinist and ask them to make a few from stainless steel 304 or bare aluminium. then i can try out your neat idea and EDC my LF2 diffuser along with my keychain as well...



Please do run it past them. I think it's a good idea for the LF2 and possibly any future LiteFlux products that use a diffuser (and are small enough for keychain carry).

In the meantime, I suppose I will be doing the same... Finding a machinist to make my own... I'll post pictures if I do, and I hope you will to.

Thanks Khoo,
Take Care,
Dan


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## osalsa (Jun 12, 2007)

With attention focused on runtimes for the LF2 varieties, please forgive me for introducing a new issue: I'm having trouble with my LF2! It has been an absolutely fantastic EDC; I love the adjustability which has allowed me to default to 30% brightness, quickly select low/low, and easily select 50% brightness. That's as bright as I need, and the runtimes are great. 

It has worked fine for about a month, but gradually I have had difficulty selecting these functions when I turn on the light. I began to suspect the switching hardware or battery contact when I noticed that when the normally functioning light tipped over in candle mode, that minor jarring impact would somehow screw up the normal operation of the light. It wouldn't turn on properly, no switching sequence made sense or was even consistent. Ignoring the light for a few hours seemed to solve the problem, but it would soon recur unpredictably. Last night I removed the battery and a number of parts spilled out from the head. Springs, other mechanical parts. Nothing looks broken; the components just didn't stay where they belong!

I have all the parts and have tried several ways to reassemble, but the light still doesn't function properly. Can anyone offer some help? I'd rather fix it myself than ship it back to Emilion, the shipping takes forever and I need this light!

Jim


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## LED Cool (Jun 13, 2007)

hello osalsa,

the problems you are facing can be attributed to the 2 stage switching mechanism. since parts (springs, rings, washer) of the mechanism have loosen, you will need to send it back to either emilion or LiteFlux to have those parts reassemble and seal securely. 

the 2 stage components are held in place by threading and LiteFlux uses a special heat glue to seal the thread.

you can also send your LF2 to me if you prefer. let me know and i will PM you my address.
you bought it from Emilion?  or direct from LiteFlux?

khoo


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## bruner (Jun 13, 2007)

Does anyone know, or can anyone measure the threads where the bezel/diffusor screws off/on?

I don't know if they are Metric or English threads either.

Thanks,
Dan


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## Thujone (Jun 13, 2007)

I am loving this light, I set my low to almost the minimum. At this level I ran it for 6 hours on a 10440. It only used 20mah putting the runtime for that mode at ~90 hours. Having an ultra low setting is VERY nice.


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## gunga (Jun 14, 2007)

*Having some issues with the LF2*

I don't know if I'm unique, but I have an early model Cree LF2 and I'm having a few weird issues:

- over discharge protection is very inconsistent. Might work on 10440 most of the time, but often shuts off the light running at 50% in less than 15 minutes (AW 10440, quite new, a week off the charger).

I also get very poor results with nimh, eneloop or duracell ( a couple weeks off the charger) where the LF2 would shut down in 5 minutes or less. I know the duracell may self discharge, but not the newish eneloop.

I tried turning the over-discharge protection on and off, but it still acts the same. I just did a general reset and hope this will solve the problem.




- Strangely reseting programming. I usually only set the P1 to lowest and sometimes P2 to a bit lower than 50%. THe problem is, the LF2 would suddenly lose it's memory once in a while. It's happened to me several times this month. I'm getting good at programming this thing since it has reset itself a few times.

Do I have a dud or is this fairly common? I'm trying to like this light, but the quirks are really getting to me. Now I know why the more basic Fenix can be a keeper for edc.


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## JJohn (Jun 14, 2007)

Thujone said:


> I am loving this light, I set my low to almost the minimum. At this level I ran it for 6 hours on a 10440. It only used 20mah putting the runtime for that mode at ~90 hours. Having an ultra low setting is VERY nice.



If you do a check on old posts you will see that I did a runtime test on just slightly above minimum and my LF2 ran for over 7 DAYS non-stop. I used a Energizer Lithium primary (L92) battery and was quite surprised because although you could look into the front of the light without hurting your eyes, the LF2 produced an actually useful amount of light for indoors with dark acclimated eyes with this amazingly long runtime.

John


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## LED Cool (Jun 14, 2007)

*Re: Having some issues with the LF2*



gunga said:


> I don't know if I'm unique, but I have an early model Cree LF2 and I'm having a few weird issues:
> 
> - over discharge protection is very inconsistent. Might work on 10440 most of the time, but often shuts off the light running at 50% in less than 15 minutes (AW 10440, quite new, a week off the charger).
> 
> ...



khoo


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## dk0013 (Jun 14, 2007)

Seems like the firmware is a little buggy on these. The P1 setting on my got set to a much lower level than I had it on, and the battery voltage report was only reporting 0.0 (two quick flashes followed by another two quick flashes). I did a reset and now its working fine. A couple weeks ago the P1 setting also changed, but it jumped to a higher level that time.


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## Rogerg (Jun 14, 2007)

carlsjrman said:


> Has anyone had any issues with the LF2's switch? Is the two stage mechanism essentially the same as the one used in the LF1? I really love my LF1, but recently the two stage switch stopped working. It's probably just a contact problem that can be solved by using deoxit, but I feel like it's a liability. If the LF2 switch is different, I think I'll have to buy one!


I have had this light and lithium rechargables for one month and made a titanum clip for it. It has worked great but now the switch had quit working, cleaned all accesable contact points but no help. When first just barley turned on it starts on sw1 then jumps to sw2, seems very erratic and no longer usable. Any suggestions?
Roger


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## LED Cool (Jun 14, 2007)

hello rogerg,

send it back to LiteFlux, explain in details what are your problems and they will get yours fix. or send it to me and i can pass it to LiteFlux.

khoo


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## gunga (Jun 14, 2007)

HI Khoo, thanks for your reply.

I will have to get back to you after more testing. 

I get poor results on the LF2 using many different batteries (2 10440s, 3 different nimh batteries (duracell and eneloop). THey function fine on any other light, but there are problems with the circuitry in the LF2.

It is too sensitive and somewhat buggy. I get a low batter warning when the LF2 displays 3.8V on Li-on.

Also, what can be cleaned? Can we put alcohol in the head to clean out the ccts? I sometimes get poor contact somewhere in the switch.


I'll check some more when I get the chance. BTW, are the LF3-5 going to be twisty as well? THis would work better with a clicky...


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## gunga (Jun 15, 2007)

Very odd. I get normal operation if I do a general reset, but often issues with over-discharge setting.

THen it will funtion fine on 10440. When I switch to nimh, the levels get all weird (high P1 and low, flicker P2?). Now I do a general reset (have to switch back to 10440 because it keeps shutitng down on ni-mh) and it seems to work.

When this light works, it's pretty cool. Too bad I only get it working about %50 of the time...

I must've gotten a dud?

:thinking:


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## 45/70 (Jun 15, 2007)

I'm still waiting for my 10440's to arrive so I can give a more complete opinion of the LF2. One thing I will mention, as gunga has observed, the voltage warning does seem to activate way too soon with NiMH's. I think the reference voltage *under load* needs to be set lower. The low voltage limits for NiMH's for instance is 1.0 Volt but thats after they have rested a bit, open circuit, *NOT,* under load.

I'm all for being safe rather than sorry (particularly with Li-Ion's) but, I think the threshold could be set lower. I will see how my SSC version works with 10440's when they get here.

Dave


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## gunga (Jun 15, 2007)

Good to know I'm not going nuts! 

With nimh, the over discharge protection does not work for me. If my 3 eneloops (all less than 2 months old) and duracell are all shot, all at once, then sure, but I don't think so.



I get somewhat strange results switching between battery types too, but will continue to experiment. I'll just have to remember to turn off the protection on nimh.

I'm getting to like using the thread play instead of all the twisting too...


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## 45/70 (Jun 15, 2007)

gunga said:


> Good to know I'm not going nuts!
> 
> With nimh, the over discharge protection does not work for me. If my 3 eneloops (all less than 2 months old) and duracell are all shot, all at once, then sure, but I don't think so.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I've been turning the protection off for my NiMH's, but I'm not too sure about doing that with the 10440's.  Odd that yours doesn't work at all with NiMH's. Mine does, but if I turn it off, I get about 33% or more runtime and the batteries are still over 1.0 volt when it starts to dim down.

Dave


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## jackcselab (Jun 15, 2007)

when using nimh, battery current is so high and the circuit is more sensitive to resistance variation. When turning and clicking LF2's switch, it will cause some resistance variation. Some unlucky LF2's resistance variation is too big. It cause unstable operation when turning and clicking switch. My CREE LF2 is an unlucky one. Another SSC P4 LF2 has no such problem.

I guess gunga's problem is the same as mine. If it is right, there are two solution maybe can ease the problem. One is using li-ion 10440. Because battery current will be much lower. Another is set P2 brightness to a low setting. Because resistance variation is highest when click switch. Set P2 brightness to low setting will lower battery current. It will ease abnormal operation when click switch.


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## Thujone (Jun 15, 2007)

45/70 said:


> One thing I will mention, as gunga has observed, the voltage warning does seem to activate way too soon with NiMH's.



Just ran a test on a Sanyo 1000mah AAA. Over discharge kicked in and shut the light down after 2:20 to give you an idea where the level was set at. Pulled it off the charger this morning where it had taken 1040mah charge. So it was definitely used completely... Had similar experience with my AW 10440.


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## LED Cool (Jun 15, 2007)

hey thujone,

2:20 (140mins) ! please tell us at what output was the test done? 

must be lower than 50%? 

thanks.
khoo


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## Thujone (Jun 15, 2007)

LED Cool said:


> hey thujone,
> 
> 2:20 (140mins) ! please tell us at what output was the test done?
> 
> ...



Yes, 30-40% if i had to guess. It is so hard to guesstimate with the whole logarithmic interpretation of light versus the linearity of referring to it in terms of percent of max current  Switching to the 50% mode has a slight but noticeable increase in brightness.


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## LED Cool (Jun 15, 2007)

45/70 said:


> I'm still waiting for my 10440's to arrive so I can give a more complete opinion of the LF2. One thing I will mention, as gunga has observed, the voltage warning does seem to activate way too soon with NiMH's. I think the reference voltage *under load* needs to be set lower. The low voltage limits for NiMH's for instance is 1.0 Volt but thats after they have rested a bit, open circuit, *NOT,* under load.
> 
> I'm all for being safe rather than sorry (particularly with Li-Ion's) but, I think the threshold could be set lower. I will see how my SSC version works with 10440's when they get here.
> 
> Dave



hello dave,

the LF2 will give a 3 slow flash warning when the *loaded *voltage of the NIMH reached 1.0V. the light will shut down when the *loaded *voltage has reached 0.8V. 

khoo


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## LED Cool (Jun 15, 2007)

thanks for the info! thujone.

gunga,

may i suggest you test the runtime at 50% using a brand new alkaline battery (1.55 - 1.6V) with the over discharge turn ON. the reason is that the capacity of an alkaline AAA battery is slightly higher than a NIMH AAA. so if you can get around 40-45mins using alkaline, then you should at least get 30mins with your fully charged NIMHs. (capacity 700mAh or 800mAh?)

also if you have a multi-meter, please measure the voltage of all your NIMH immediately after the charger light turn green. when fully charged. it should be 1.40V - 1.44V. also for this runtime test, you must use the same charger to charge all your NIMHs for consistent measurement.

like i said in the previous post, i have a pair of Sanyo 900 mAh bought last year that read 1.38V off the charger. i put them into my LF2, turn to P2 (50%) and my light starts to give me the 3 slow flashing follow by rapid flashing and shut down! :thinking: i put them into other lights without OP feature and it will light up for more than 20mins.

my other pair of Sanyo 900 mAh NIMH works normal in my LF2.

khoo


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## gunga (Jun 15, 2007)

Thanks for the suggestions Khoo.

I've tried some stuff before. What I'm finding now is that if I turn off the OP as soon as possible, I think it's okay. I seem to get decent runtimes at 50% (can't remember, say 40 mins? NOt sure). My nimh come off the charger around 1.42V. 

Sometimes the problem is, OP turns on, even on low, so it's a bit of a struggle to get it off so I can use it on nimh. When I can get it off, it works fine.

I actually can get around the same with 10440, 40 or so mins with OP on. This is normal I guess? If I switch modes a lot, the OP kicks in sooner, so I see how the cct is a bit too sensitive.

I still get a memory loss from time to time, but it's not so bad for me to reprogram the low now that I've got the hand of the press the head way of doing it.


----------



## 45/70 (Jun 15, 2007)

LED Cool said:


> hello dave,
> 
> the LF2 will give a 3 slow flash warning when the *loaded *voltage of the NIMH reached 1.0V. the light will shut down when the *loaded *voltage has reached 0.8V.
> 
> khoo


Yes, I am aware of that. Thanks, Khoo.  I was referring to the "warning". The slow blink, frankly, drives me nuts so, I've rarely run my NiMH's down any farther without turning off the warning. Any more, I just leave it off. It just seems that it'd be better if the "warning" voltage was maybe 0.95 or 0.90 or something. As I mentioned, when the LF 2 starts to blink, if I then turn off the over discharge protect function, it'll run for quite a while longer (especially if you run it at a lower output) .......... without the annoying blink . When it drops out of regulation and dims, the cells are reading 1.0+ volts open circuit.

I am just offering some personal constructive criticism. All may not agree with me (Gee! Like, what else is new?!) True, if the warning voltage was set lower, you wouldn't have as much time to get another battery etc. I'm anxious to see how my LF 2 SSC works with 10440's, as that is the battery formula I intend to use in it. Also the discharge protection then becomes more important.

I've mentioned elsewhere that I *REALLY *like this light, and that's still true! :twothumbs

Dave


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## 45/70 (Jun 15, 2007)

gunga said:


> Sometimes the problem is, OP turns on, even on low, so it's a bit of a struggle to get it off so I can use it on nimh. When I can get it off, it works fine.


It seems like once the warning comes on, it's stays on, even if you turn the light off. You can screw the head out till the battery disconnects and then screw it back in to remedy this problem provided, you don't set it off again by running the light at too high a current. 

Dave

Edit: Farther investigation shows that turning the light off _does _stop the warning blink, again, provided you don't have it set at too high a drive level.


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## gunga (Jun 15, 2007)

Oh! I did not know that!

Thanks a bunch, could really help a lot. 

Once I go through these suggestions I think the light seems to function okay.

Just have to investigate the flickering outpit on nimh (likely a contact issue, funny how it doesn't happen on 10440), and the weird mode reversal on nimh.

That could be me accidentally changing a mode somehow when frantically trying to shut the OP off on nimh.

Not sure about the "forgetfullness" of the light tho.

Good suggestions all, I will keep investigating.




45/70 said:


> It seems like once the warning comes on, it's stays on, even if you turn the light off. You can screw the head out till the battery disconnects and then screw it back in to remedy this problem provided, you don't set it off again by running the light at too high a current.
> 
> Dave


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## 45/70 (Jun 15, 2007)

45/70 said:


> It seems like once the warning comes on, it's stays on, even if you turn the light off. You can screw the head out till the battery disconnects and then screw it back in to remedy this problem provided, you don't set it off again by running the light at too high a current.
> 
> Dave


Well gunga, it appears that I was wrong and turning it off does stop the warning. Maybe it was the particular battery I was using? Not sure.

Will edit my previous post. :sigh:

Dave


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## gunga (Jun 16, 2007)

I'm sure I will not get very consistent results, but let's hope...

Well, I took some suggestions from jjohn and did a big contact cleaning. Eraser to the end of the battery tube and an alcohol soaked q-tip for the rest of the contact surfaces. Tried an eraser on the inside of the head, but I think it was still a bit oily.

ANyways, just got my eneloop to run for 1:45 at 50% with OP on!



Like I said, I hope for consistent results after testing. If I keep getting reasonable numbers, I'll attribute the strange performance to some kind of weird contact issue. Still unsure of why that would cause premature OP shutdown (ie 30 seconds on 50%), but I'll keep testing.

My results on 10440 are usually around 40-45 mins at 50%. I must be one of the unlucky ones with the shorter runtime. Oh well, not too big a deal since one can just turn it down a bit (I like the low low setting).

I will alos monitor to see if my light "forgets" settings again and any weird behaviour.

THanks for the input all, I will report back with more once I get results.

:candle:


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## LED Cool (Jun 16, 2007)

45/70 said:


> I'm anxious to see how my LF 2 SSC works with 10440's, as that is the battery formula I intend to use in it. Also the discharge protection then becomes more important.
> 
> I've mentioned elsewhere that I *REALLY *like this light, and that's still true! :twothumbs
> 
> Dave




that is how i run my LF2 with. 10440 weights very little and runtime at 50% is about 30 - 40mins. depending what brand of 10440. glad you like your LF2 SSC P4. Dave. :thumbsup: look forward to your runtime with 10440. 

khoo


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## LED Cool (Jun 16, 2007)

gunga said:


> Well, I took some suggestions from jjohn and did a big contact cleaning. Eraser to the end of the battery tube and an alcohol soaked q-tip for the rest of the contact surfaces. Tried an eraser on the inside of the head, but I think it was still a bit oily.
> 
> ANyways, just got my eneloop to run for 1:45 at 50% with OP on!
> 
> ...




hey gunga, glad you LF2 OP feature now works with your NIMHs. most likely contact issue. 105mins on 50% until OP shut down when using eneloop is very very good! may i know what is the capacity of the eneloop AAA and the charger that you are using. I may have to upgrade to a better charger!

also your runtime on Li-Ion can be considered good. it is better than my 30-35mins. again may i ask which 10440 and charger are you using? 

thanks.
khoo


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## gunga (Jun 16, 2007)

Hi Khoo,

I've not done a ton of testing yet, so can't give you firm numbers, but I just got 1:15 (75 minutes) with 10440 at 50%?! :thinking:

I'm using AW 10440s with Nano charger, usually stop charging at around 4.1 - 4.13V (light has not turned green yet, around 3 hours). I have some ultrafire ones I can test too. Wish the charger was faster.

My eneloops are only a few months old and not heavily used. Capacity is 800 mah and I'm using a Sanyo 2-3 hour quick charger. I have a year old, lightly used duracell 900mah I can test too. 

I think I'm getting slightly shorter runtimes now, but I haven't recorded any other numbers yet, can do more tests over the next few days. 

I'm still very surprised that a good contact cleaning can make that much difference but perhaps due to the sensitive nature of the electronics in the LF2, you really need to keep it clean!



All I know is, if I keep getting these numbers and the light keeps it's modes, I'll be VERY happy!

:rock:


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## LED Cool (Jun 16, 2007)

hi gunga,

thanks for the info.
75mins on 50% using 10440! that is impressive!  is yours a LF2 CREE? 
may i ask when did you bought it? it could be the earlier version where the LED current is set lower.

thanks.
khoo


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## gunga (Jun 16, 2007)

Hi Khoo.

It was sold to me by a fellow CPF member who got one of the early model crees. I will not mention the name for privacy reasons but invite him to chime in if he wants. A great and honest CPFer.

I've run a couple more tests at 50%,

still getting around 1:55 and 1:15 or so for 800 mah eneloop and AW 10440 (320 mah).

I'll keep track for a little while and see. Perhaps when I was cleaning out the inside of the head and I was playing with the switch a bit, it helped something. This is a drastic change from the weird results I was getting before. If this keeps up I will be very pleased...

:twothumbs


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## Lunal_Tic (Jun 16, 2007)

Is there a downloadable PDF file of the instructions somewhere? I'd like to get it on to my computer in case I misplace the paper instructions that come with it.

-LT


edit: I can't get the links in the first post to open and one of the photos doesn't show. Anyone else with these problems?


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## Thujone (Jun 16, 2007)

Lunal_Tic said:


> Is there a downloadable PDF file of the instructions somewhere?



Here


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## Lunal_Tic (Jun 16, 2007)

Thanks Thujone. :thumbsup:

-LT


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## Thujone (Jun 17, 2007)

Lunal_Tic said:


> Thanks Thujone. :thumbsup:
> 
> -LT




Not a problem.


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## 45/70 (Jun 17, 2007)

I ran a runtime test @ 100% output with four _*18 month*_ old Sanyo 900 mAh batteries in my LF-2 SSC. Before the actual test, I ran a capacity test in a LaCross BC-900. The result @ 250 mA discharge rate was 936 mAh +/- 10 mAh for the four batteries. The batteries were rested for 8 hours after charging @ 500 mA and trickled for 1 hour.

The results of the runtime test were close between the four batteries. The average time before the over discharge warning was 35 minutes. The average shutoff was @ 40.5 minutes.

Considering these results at 100%, I rescind my suggestion that the warning level be lower. I'd say it's just about right. :thumbsup: With older/lower capacity batteries, the warning does come on abruptly. Then again, these batteries no doubt have a higher internal resistance due to their age/use.

Still no 10440's. Sheesh! You'd think Hong Kong was on the other side of the planet or something! 

Dave

Edit: I forgot to mention, I stood the LF2 up in a glass of water filled to 1/2 inch from the lens for the test.


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## gunga (Jun 17, 2007)

I have some other data so far, all done at default 50% level.
I got weird results with the duracell nimh, OP shutdown was too soon, I rested the cell for a minute or two, and kept going, did this twice for the same cell. 

I tried this briefly for the ultrafire 10440, but only got 2 mins more runtime so did not push it. OP kept all batteries at a reasonable level. I could probably run the nimh for while longer because I did not get noticable dimming.

AW 10440: 3 runs, all around 75 mins for 2 different batteries.
Ultrafire 10440: 2 runs, around 61-65 mins, 2 different batteries. 

So my 10440s will be AW from now on... While the ultrafires are rated at 500 mah, capacity was probably 300 mah (vs 320 mah for the AW cells). 

Sanyo Eneloop, 800 mah: 1:45, 1:55 (2 different batteries). 
Duracell 900 mah (re-branded Sanyo, 1 year old): 42 mins, 36 mins, 20 mins on the same cell. OP protection shut the cell down early, so I kept it going after a minutes rest.

Will try again with another duracell. Probably stop testing after that and just use the light!

:naughty:


Note: All cells are quite new (a couple months) except the duracell. THe duracell has only seen light use. 10440s were charged to around 4.11-13V on Nano charger. Nimh were charged using Sanyo (2-3 hour)quick charger. Might be able to get better results with a better charger?


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## nanotech17 (Jun 17, 2007)

how about swapping the LED to Cree Q3?
http://www.customlightfactory.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=364


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## dk0013 (Jun 18, 2007)

Or Q4:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=166231

How hard would it be to replace the emitter on the tiny board by hand?


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## LED Cool (Jun 24, 2007)

Hello all,

any suggestions on the outlook/design and finishing/colour of the LF2?

thanks.
khoo


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## bruner (Jun 24, 2007)

LED Cool said:


> Hello all,
> 
> any suggestions on the outlook/design and finishing/colour of the LF2?
> 
> ...


 
khoo,

I have a suggestion. If you recall, in my post #42 of this thread, I proposed the concept of using the LiteFlux LF2 diffuser as a pill fob / spy capsule.

At the time of that post, I could only demonstrate my idea with the cap from another pill fob that did not fit properly.

I have since found a local machinist that could do Metric threads and I had a cap made up for myself. (i'm in the US, and Metric threads are not common here, not every machinist here has the capability)



Here is the new cap attached to the diffuser, it is made from aluminum:








Now, I can always have my diffuser attached to my keychain and ready for use:







If I'm using the diffuser, I have a handy place to store the bezel head:







My new diffuser / pill fob is great for storing pills:







Or, some folded up money:











It ended up costing me $55 (US Dollars) to have it made, but it was well worth it to me. My keychain is more organized and useful than ever before. I have one of the most interesting flashlights ever made and a great way to keep it's accessory nearby.

I'll bet LiteFlux could make these a lot better than mine... And do it a lot with a lot less expense. Mine has no o-ring, as I was trying to keep it simple and as inexpensive as possible.

Just think, if it had an o-ring of it's own, then the pill fob would be completely water-tight and you would have an extra o-ring on hand for your LiteFlux (if one over failed). There is also ample room in my cap to come up with a method for storing some silicone grease (which I think is pretty important for a light that is twist-programable), but again, I was trying to keep expenses down, so I did not pursue it.

What do you think about it?

Thanks,
Dan


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## regulator (Jun 24, 2007)

Hey LED Cool.

I would like to see the light in a dark "olive" type HA - something similar to the color of the Surefires and HDS lights. Maybe a bit more knurling. Glow in the dark dots for the switch positions would be cool too.


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## Grubbster (Jun 25, 2007)

Bruner, that is a great idea! I would really love to see liteflux offer these as an add-on option for all their lights. Great job!:twothumbs


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## 83Venture (Jun 25, 2007)

I agree !!! :twothumbs :twothumbs


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## Grubbster (Jun 25, 2007)

I just had another thought on your idea Bruner. If they made the diffuser a bit longer, your idea might work for storing an extra battery.


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## bruner (Jun 25, 2007)

Thanks guys 

Hey Grubster, if you didn't mind having a much longer cap, the cap could be bored out to accomodate a AAA battery. Then you could use the standard difuser head and they wouldn't have to change anything. Good idea!

Dan


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## bruner (Jun 25, 2007)

Well,

If anyone wants to have one made for themselves, here are the plans I drew up.





My machinist is the one who determined what the thread type was, so you'll have blame him if the metric threading is incorrect.

Personally, If your machinist can do metric, I would have him double-check that thread dimension by letting him/her look at your flashlight.

Dan


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## simonyh (Jun 26, 2007)

I have had no issues with flickering, the quality is pretty good, better than my P1D-CE.


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## ARC mania (Jun 26, 2007)

I know I'm a bit late but can someone explain how to set the brightness levels in P1 and P2? 

ARC mania


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## 45/70 (Jun 26, 2007)

ARC mania said:


> I know I'm a bit late but can someone explain how to set the brightness levels in P1 and P2?
> 
> ARC mania


Hey ARC mania,

The LF2 manual explains how to do this however, it is a bit hard to understand. I'll try to give you brief instructions. The LF2 uses a binary system. One thing to consider, is that "OFF" doesn't count as anything. The one's and zero's are communicated from the P1 and P2 positions, _*ONLY*.

_First, figure out where "P1" and "P2" are. Just barely turn on the light (this is "P1"). *Slowly*, turn farther untill the level changes (This is "P2"). Note _*Where* _the change between P1 and P2 occurs.

Then, to get to "program mode", the sequence is, starting from P1/P2/P1/P2/P1/P2/P1/P2/P1/P2/P1/P2/P1 or, 6 "SW's". The individual "turns" have to have a spacing of less than one second.

At this point the LF2 is at programing level for "P1". When you are stopped at "P1", the light will be at the default level of 15% (or, where you had set it before, if you had changed it). When you then switch to "P2", within 1 second, the level will start to increase. When the level reaches 100%, the light will flash, once and stop increasing.

So, to increase the level, but stop it where you want, proceed as above _*But*, _turn the head back to "P1" when it's at the level you desire. Wait one second and _*then*, _switch from P1/P2/P1/P2/P1/P2/P1. This is 3 "SW's" or switch cycles and "sets" the level. Wait 1 second, and then turn off the light. When you turn it back on, "P1" will now be at the level you set it at.

To _*decrease* _the level of P1, do the same as above _*But*_, once you are in the adjustment mode for P1, wait one second and *Then*, switch from P1/P2/P1/P2/P1/ or, 2 "SW's", wait one second. Then when you switch to P2, this will cause the light to *decrease* from 15% (or, where you had it set before)_. _When the level is where you want it, switch back to "P1", wait one second and then, P1/P2/P1/P2/P1/P2/P1 (three "SW's") which will save your setting.

All of the adjustments for the LF2 are done the same way. If you want to skip the P1 setting and go to the P2 setting, once you are at the P1 adjustment point, wait one second then twist from P1/P2/P1/P2/P1/P2/P1 (three "SW's") and this will "save" the setting, which is actually where it was at to start with, unchanged. At this point, the LF2 will automatically go to the next adjustment level, which is for "P2". Adjusting the P2 level works the same as for P1.

Hope this helps.  The LF2's UI instructions, when written out, look rather daunting, but really it's very simple, once you get the hang of it. Also, once you have it set up the way you want it, you really don't have to deal with it. 

Dave

EDITED: Changed the "default" value for P1 to 15%. Default P2 is 50%.


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## PeLu (Jun 27, 2007)

bruner said:


> If your machinist can do metric,


 As most of the world is already metric, you can imagine how difficult it is (outside the US) to get a non-metric thread .-)

Thanks for the good idea, as soon as it is in a CNC, it should be no problem to get a few of them. 

The light itself is wonderful. It might become my last backup caving light.


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## ARC mania (Jun 27, 2007)

45/70: I really appreciate you taking the time to explain in great detail how to program the brightness. I finally figured it out. The LF2 is one hell of a light for its size. Thanks again.

ARC mania


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## Thujone (Jun 27, 2007)

Making just one gets the highest unit cost.... I would think that if you cranked 50 of those out you could have easily set the price at a point where you could sell 49 in order to cover the cost of making 50 and walked away with a free (assuming you consider your time well spent) awesome accessory....  So uh.... Make more please!


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## 45/70 (Jun 27, 2007)

I edited my previous post to correct the default value of "P1".



ARC mania said:


> 45/70: I really appreciate you taking the time to explain in great detail how to program the brightness. I finally figured it out. The LF2 is one hell of a light for its size. Thanks again.
> 
> ARC mania



No problem ARC, and yes it is! :thumbsup:

Dave


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## FlashCrazy (Jun 27, 2007)

On the programming of the light, and also accessing different modes of operation, here's a tip. 

When the light is in the P2 position, you can press the head of the light in place of twisting it, to count as one SW....or press twice for SW x 2, etc etc. 

Say if you want strobe...just go to P2 position, and press the head of the light 3 times with your thumb. It'll go into strobe....press it once more while in strobe, and it'll go back to normal. You can access all of the other modes the same way. To get to the programming mode, press it 6 times...to check battery level, press it five times....want SOS?, press it 4 times. It sure saves a lot of wear and tear on the threads from twisting back and forth.

This only works in the P2 position. Mechanically, it does the same thing as twisting the light from P2 to P1 and back to P2. It breaks the contact of the internal ring the same way that twisting does.

It's been mentioned somewhere around here, but figured I'd pass it along. Hope this helps!


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## EngrPaul (Jun 27, 2007)

FlashCrazy said:


> When the light is in the P2 position, you can press the head of the light in place of twisting it, to count as one SW....or press twice for SW x 2, etc etc.
> 
> ...figured I'd pass it along. Hope this helps!


 
Thanks FC, I didn't know that. This will save some wear and tear on the flashlight threads, and also on my wrist! :twothumbs


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## nanotech17 (Jun 27, 2007)

dk0013 said:


> Or Q4:
> 
> http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=166231
> 
> How hard would it be to replace the emitter on the tiny board by hand?



maybe you ask Arcmania


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## FlashCrazy (Jun 28, 2007)

EngrPaul said:


> Thanks FC, I didn't know that. This will save some wear and tear on the flashlight threads, and also on my wrist! :twothumbs


 
Yep, sure will! Having found out about this method, it seems like a whole new light now...much easier to use!


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## ARC mania (Jun 28, 2007)

Just acquired a couple R2 in brightness XRE's. Unfortunately the tint is a WG and has a slight ting of green  Still pretty friggin bright compared to my last mod using a Q3 in brightness XRE. With the R2 in place, its whole different world, like its hard to imagine getting this much light from a single AAA battery. If you are planning on buying an LF2, I highly recommend the Cree version. I also hear that an R3 in brightness XRE will be out soon.

ARC mania


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## Thujone (Jun 28, 2007)

ARC mania said:


> Just acquired a couple R2 in brightness XRE's. Unfortunately the tint is a WG and has a slight ting of green  Still pretty friggin bright compared to my last mod using a Q3 in brightness XRE. With the R2 in place, its whole different world, like its hard to imagine getting this much light from a single AAA battery. If you are planning on buying an LF2, I highly recommend the Cree version. I also hear that an R3 in brightness XRE will be out soon.
> 
> ARC mania



R2? R3? Is that what they are going to call the Q4 and Q5 or something?


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## ARC mania (Jun 28, 2007)

Brightness bin R2 for the Cree XRE is the next step above a Q5. Not listed on the XRE PDF file for reasons unknown. Same with a Q4 in brightness.

ARC mania


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## Thujone (Jun 28, 2007)

ARC mania said:


> Brightness bin R2 for the Cree XRE is the next step above a Q5. Not listed on the XRE PDF file for reasons unknown. Same with a Q4 in brightness.
> 
> ARC mania



Awesome, had not seen anything on the R2 and R3 bins yet, thanks for the info. Hopefully SSC will be releasing higher bins at the same time...


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## PeLu (Jun 29, 2007)

bruner said:


> If anyone wants to have one made for themselves,


One more: What about a short tube so that it can hold a spare battery? I is only a few mm longer.
Yes, I know that then you cannot put on the 'normal' head, but so it is with pills or money.....


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## daywalker (Jun 29, 2007)

Hi Dan, can your machinist confirm that it is M13x0,75 , because here in Germany i only can find M13x1,0 Or M13x1,5.
If i would be able to get the threading tool i would do a run of those caps.



bruner said:


> Well,
> 
> If anyone wants to have one made for themselves, here are the plans I drew up.
> 
> ...


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## fasuto (Jun 29, 2007)

FlashCrazy said:


> When the light is in the P2 position, you can press the head of the light in place of twisting it, to count as one SW....or press twice for SW x 2, etc etc.



Here is a video about that


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## daywalker (Jun 29, 2007)

@flashcrazy- nice find

@fasuto: very nice vid for the demonstration and easy to understand



fasuto said:


> Here is a video about that


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## FlashCrazy (Jun 29, 2007)

fasuto...nice find on the video! I saw another one there also: 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kor7tVHj3zo&NR=1


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## PhantomPhoton (Jul 6, 2007)

Well after using my SSC LF2 for a couple weeks now I guess I should give my input. I'm sure what I'm going to say has already been suggested above for the most part.

First let me start off by saying this is an absolutely amazing light, especially for the price. It is now my favorite neck light, and thus it goes out of the house with me pretty much everywhere. :thumbsup:

Now, this light is kind of an enthusiast light. Theres no way in heck I'd give one to my mother... she doesn't have the interest or patience to sit down and play with it, see how it works, and master its operation. It is a tricky UI at first. 

The first thing I'd do to make this light better is put more grip/ textured surfaces on the light, especially in the area that houses the circuits and emitter. I often find myself twisting off the front reflector part instead of the emitter section because the reflector part has texture and the emitter part of the body does not. This makes switching modes much more difficult. I would also add some texture to the body so I can get a better grip on the little guy down there as well.

A second improvement is marking the body with better visual cues as to where P1 and P2 are. This is what took the most amount of time to learn and figure out about the light... where P1 actually is and where P2 is. I still find it challenging to accurately switch in the dark when I cannot see the tiny white dot on the side of the light. Being hardcore my first suggestion of course is Tritium :devil:, but GitD epoxy, or even definite tactile groves in the light where I can feel here's my point of reference, heres where P1 is and heres where P2 is would be good.

I did like the suggestion above to make a keyring in which I can store the unused head on my; so then I can switch between the diffuser cap and the reflector cap. I find I use the diffuser cap more than the reflector and I usually don't want to risk dropping that little reflector head in my pocket and loose it. Having a small screw on male "keychain" would be a great way to keep track of it, and maybe hold a spare battery too.

All in all this is a great light, IMO the best available in the AAA size at this time. As a matter of fact I'm so impressed with the light, especially in build quality that I'm considering getting a LF1 to mod with a Cree. I can't wait for the LF3!
:twothumbs


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## LED Cool (Jul 6, 2007)

thank you PhantomPhoton for your feedback and suggestions. :thumbsup:

a lot of us here also feels the same about having more grip on the head. i have suggested to LiteFlux to add some knurling to the design to help improve grip. 

visual cues and "feel in the dark" cues are both good idea but it is very challenging to find a solution to satisfy both criteria. i supposed GID dimple dots that raised above the head and body could do the trick but that solution could be time consuming and would significantly increase the production cost.

CPF member, bruner, made a screw on keyring for the diffuser/head. it is neat solution to carry both item. i think this would fall under custom made acessories for LF2. did mentioned to LiteFlux about it. while they find the idea interesting, their are not too keen on producing it. however, LiteFlux has learned a lot from many CPF'er input here and has decided on a snap on diffuser for future model of LiteFlux products. 

finally, as we all know, this is a high quality mass production light, so unless stock are almost depleted, i don't think they will come out with a new LF2 design soon.

thanks.
khoo


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## luigi (Jul 6, 2007)

I'm not sure about the knurling on the head. To me the grip is fine as it is. An extra knurling will probably make my fingers hurt after programming, you have to do a lot of twists, if there is a knurling pattern in the middle it may get rough on your skin.

My 2 cents.

Luigi


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## Thujone (Jul 6, 2007)

luigi said:


> I'm not sure about the knurling on the head. To me the grip is fine as it is. An extra knurling will probably make my fingers hurt after programming, you have to do a lot of twists, if there is a knurling pattern in the middle it may get rough on your skin.
> 
> My 2 cents.
> 
> Luigi



Uh.. How soft are your fingers??  Even if it was very aggressive knurling it would only lend itself to better grip requiring less pressure to gain enough traction. While I do not have any problems as the light is, I would welcome more aggressive knurling.


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## FlashCrazy (Jul 6, 2007)

luigi said:


> I'm not sure about the knurling on the head. To me the grip is fine as it is. An extra knurling will probably make my fingers hurt after programming, you have to do a lot of twists, if there is a knurling pattern in the middle it may get rough on your skin.
> 
> My 2 cents.
> 
> Luigi


 

Don't do all that twisting...see post #112 on page 4 of this thread. Makes programming the light much easier. Plus it works great in the dark, no need to have reference points for P1 and P2. (with a bit of practice, that is.)


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## luigi (Jul 6, 2007)

Pressing the head making it push the circuit can eventually be bad, I ruined a Gerber infinity using it in this way for momentary operation.


Luigi



FlashCrazy said:


> Don't do all that twisting...see post #112 on page 4 of this thread. Makes programming the light much easier. Plus it works great in the dark, no need to have reference points for P1 and P2. (with a bit of practice, that is.)


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## FlashCrazy (Jul 6, 2007)

Good point. I'm not familiar with the Gerber's design, but in the LF2 it's just a spring-loaded contact...it's designed to be compressed and released many times. I think as long as you press the head gently, it should be ok. I guess I'll found out in the long run...lol. I hope it'll be ok, otherwise I'll:mecry:if I break it!


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## matrixshaman (Jul 7, 2007)

A couple questions - I've skimmed through here but still can't find a clear picture of how the brightness adjustment works on the LF2. Is it essentially a continuous ramp down from full brightness to 0.2% ? Can you stop at any level in between? (similar to a Gladius).


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## FlashCrazy (Jul 7, 2007)

matrixshaman said:


> A couple questions - I've skimmed through here but still can't find a clear picture of how the brightness adjustment works on the LF2. Is it essentially a continuous ramp down from full brightness to 0.2% ? Can you stop at any level in between? (similar to a Gladius).


 
To get to the "User adjustable" mode, you turn on the light, then switch it twice between P1 and P2 (position one and position two). The light will go to 50% power, then slowly start ramping up in brightness. If you want it to ramp down, you switch it twice again while in user adjustable mode. (You toggle the ramp up/down choice by doing so). While it's either ramping up or down, you can stop it at any brightness level.


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## matrixshaman (Jul 7, 2007)

FlashCrazy - thanks for the info - that's essentially what I was hoping for. Sounds like a light I've got to add to the want list.


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## daywalker (Jul 7, 2007)

Hi to all LF2-Owners.
I will be starting a feeler thread for the LF2-Cap in CPF's Custom & Mod B/S/T around this weekend. Just have a look for it and state your interest there.


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## Ice (Jul 7, 2007)

Well, one thing I noticed (speaking of knurling on the head) was that sometimes I wanted to turn the head to switch on the LF2 I only turned the front part with the reflector in it (the one you have to loosen to use the diffusor). There definitely should be a more textured surface at the the part of the head you have to turn to operate the light itself!

Nevertheless, the LF2 is just a great light!!! 

I recently found a much easier way to carry it around!
While I used to have it in a longish belt pouch which sometimes got cought e.g. in seatbelts or such things, I recently had the idea to carry the light in two parts (the head and the body with battery) in one belt pouch next to each other! That way the pouch is not much longer than the belt is broad and the light is still ready for action in a few seconds!


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## daywalker (Jul 9, 2007)

Feeler thread for cap started her:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/169069


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## Disposable (Jul 17, 2007)

Hello all,

A little feedback about service from LED Cool.

My LF2 developed a problem with spontaneous switch disassembly. You're supposed to take stuff apart, but on your on schedule rather than when it wants to. Some others have mentioned the same problem earlier. I contacted Khoo, and he not only replaced the light with a new one as quickly as air mail would allow, he also answered my questions and willingly helped me out with another hobby of mine. The personal service was much appreciated. I would definitely do business with him again.


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## TigerhawkT3 (Jul 22, 2007)

OK, here's my LF2 story (read the last line for the conclusion):

When I first came across this light, I decided I might as well see what all the fuss was about. However, when I saw the user's manual, with THREE flowcharts, I thought right away that I would never use such a complicated light. In other words, bah humbug!

I couldn't resist the temptation, however, and I actually read the manual. To my surprise, it actually didn't sound too bad! After I thought I understood it, I ordered the LF2, just to see if I could deal with it.

To my complete and utter amazement, this light was very easy for me to program and use. I've been messing around with it the past couple days.

Now, I may have just written about being repeatedly surprised, but here comes the part that really blew me away: I actually USED this light yesterday night!  I used it on its lowest level to read a book with my dark-adapted eyes, and it worked great!

This is quite different from my 10440 L0D-CE, which I NEVER actually used, only turning it on to show off its crazy output. I'm thinking of replacing that screamer with my LF2, as it's looking like an inordinately clever little light.

Bottom line: This excellent light far exceeded my expectations. :thumbsup:


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## TooManyGizmos (Jul 22, 2007)

:sick2:......:sigh:

I'm getting real impatient ........................

Waiting for the LF-5 to come to market.


Any-one know whats causing the Loooooooong delay ??

.


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## NetKidz (Jul 22, 2007)

TooManyGizmos said:


> :sick2:......:sigh:
> 
> I'm getting real impatient ........................
> 
> ...


 
The machine shop messed up the whole batch of tubes again and again! Oops...


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## kklee (Jul 23, 2007)

Just received my LF2 SSC in the mail today. I love this thing!

It did take me a couple of minutes to figure out the UI, but it's pretty simple once you figure out that you can just press instead of having to twist.

It totally satisfies the geek in me


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## TigerhawkT3 (Jul 26, 2007)

I'm loving this thing! I'd like to see the AA version come out.

Here are my suggestions for the larger model:
-Increase maximum drive level to at least 150-200L.
-Replace "User Adjusted" mode with a second 2-level mode.
-Logarithmic output adjustment.
-Output should increase, stop, blink, decrease, stop, blink, increase, etc.

Thanks, Khoo! :thumbsup:


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## 83Venture (Jul 27, 2007)

I seem to notice that if I am using it at 50% and turn it off sometimes it will not turn back on unless I put in a new battery. Maybe the battery is just at the point that it has enough power to keep running but not start back up at that level? 

If so it is something to keep in mind that you can't use the remaining charge of that battery at a lower output unless you have a spare battery to get it running again then change to a lower power setting. Anyone else have this happen?


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## TCW 60 (Jul 27, 2007)

Only a short question:

In the standard mode P1 is 15 %, what is P2 100%?

Thanks


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## FlashCrazy (Jul 27, 2007)

83Venture said:


> I seem to notice that if I am using it at 50% and turn it off sometimes it will not turn back on unless I put in a new battery. Maybe the battery is just at the point that it has enough power to keep running but not start back up at that level?
> 
> If so it is something to keep in mind that you can't use the remaining charge of that battery at a lower output unless you have a spare battery to get it running again then change to a lower power setting. Anyone else have this happen?


 

Hmm...that sounds strange. If the battery is that low, it should still start back up, then flash quickly 12 times and shut off. In any case, long before that, you should've seen the 3 flashes every 40 seconds signaling a low battery. Maybe try a different battery just to see what happens?


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## FlashCrazy (Jul 27, 2007)

TCW 60 said:


> Only a short question:
> 
> In the standard mode P1 is 15 %, what is P2 100%?
> 
> Thanks


 
From the factory, P2 is programmed for 50% output. Many people program theirs to have P1 as super-low output (I think 0.2%), and P2 to be 100%. You can then use the adjustable mode for quick access to 50%...and ramp up or down as desired.


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## Thujone (Jul 27, 2007)

FlashCrazy said:


> Hmm...that sounds strange. If the battery is that low, it should still start back up, then flash quickly 12 times and shut off. In any case, long before that, you should've seen the 3 flashes every 40 seconds signaling a low battery. Maybe try a different battery just to see what happens?



Battery protection is default off, he would not have seen that behavior if he did not enable it.


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## luigi (Jul 27, 2007)

Be careful, pressing the head might be a problem for the electronics.
There is one case of a LF2 used in this way that stopped working, and while it has not been confirmed it was because of this I would be careful.
Just twist and untwist and the electronics do not get pressure.

Luigi



kklee said:


> Just received my LF2 SSC in the mail today. I love this thing!
> 
> It did take me a couple of minutes to figure out the UI, but it's pretty simple once you figure out that you can just press instead of having to twist.
> 
> It totally satisfies the geek in me


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## LED Cool (Jul 28, 2007)

83Venture said:


> I seem to notice that if I am using it at 50% and turn it off sometimes it will not turn back on unless I put in a new battery. Maybe the battery is just at the point that it has enough power to keep running but not start back up at that level?
> 
> If so it is something to keep in mind that you can't use the remaining charge of that battery at a lower output unless you have a spare battery to get it running again then change to a lower power setting. Anyone else have this happen?



when the battery is almost depleted (eg. 1.2V empty load) and the light is running at 50% (without low battery warning/protection), the driver will try its best to squeeze the last drop of energy from the battery in order to maintain 50% brightness. battery voltage under load at this point is about 0.6V - 0.7V (checked by SW x 5). and when the LF2 is turn off at this point in time, the battery voltage of 0.6V - 0.7V is insufficient to start up the LF2.

let the battery rest for 1 - 2 minutes and you should be able to start up your LF2 again. but this depends also on the kind of battery that you are using.

i did this test with P1 at 15% and P2 at 50%.

actually it is better to have the low battery protection turn on as that will give you a warning of the condition of the battery in the LF2. from there on, if the user is really out of a spare battery AND must have light, he/she should then turn off the low battery protection feature and proceed to use the LF2 whereby its driver will squeeze out the last drop of energy in the battery. obviously, at this stage, the user is aware that the battery in the LF2 would not last long.

regards,
khoo


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## LED Cool (Jul 28, 2007)

hello FlashCrazy, thank you for chiming in.

hello luigi,

while LiteFlux do not officially mentioned/recommend the pressing method, i personnally think that the pressing method does not exert much pressure on the 2 stage switch. the twisting method also makes the 2 stage switch goes up and down. as long as 2 stage switch is assembly correctly and sealed with strong adhesive/glue, the switch should last.

i am aware of the "one case" you mentioned and i just received the returned LF2 yesterday. short story, i did a reset on it and everything works fine. i will be running more test on that unit.

to everyone :wave:, enjoy your LF2 and please spread the joy of LF2. 

thank you for your support. :thumbsup:
khoo


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## Lunal_Tic (Jul 28, 2007)

I'm just not able to get this to work for me. While I think it's a technological marvel the programing is a pain. I have not been successful in getting the levels to change where I want them. The only way I am able to access the program mode is with the pressing method from P2, twisting from P1 won't work, and even then I haven't been able to get it to put the right intensities in the right place. I don't doubt that it is easy for some of you but on the two units I have it is not. It's just plain frustrating. 

On an other note the links to the other threads in the first post here are dead links. Is there any chance to fix them? Perhaps they would have information that would help me.


LED Cool said:


> There is a thread, started by zz6557, on the LiteFlux LF2 with more photos by NetKidz and antc_tw2002 in the CPF LED section.
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ad.php?t=150055
> 
> and an informative mini review thread by NetKidz, with more photos by ynda.
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ad.php?t=154068




Thanks.
-LT


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## LED Cool (Jul 28, 2007)

hello Lunal_Tic,

thanks for the heads up. links are now fixed.

may i ask a few questions in order to find out the status of your LF2s?

are you able to access ANY of the following modes by twisting?

standard mode with P1 & P2 output level SWx1
Strobe mode SWx3
SOS mode SW x4
battery voltage reporting feature SWx5
demo feature SWx7
low battery protection feature SWx8
can you perform a RESET? SWx10

if you can then you should be able to access the programming mode. SWx6

if you cannot, then we can discuss more in details.

regards,
khoo


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## Lunal_Tic (Jul 28, 2007)

Hi khoo,

Starting at P1:
I cannot get to program from P1 cycling P1 to P2 (6x). The pressing method doesn't work from P1. SW6 shows no change in output and no signal to show that program mode is enabled.
Strobe, SOS, and reset work.

Starting at P2:
I can get to program mode from P2 by pressing 6x or cycling P2 to P1 (6x). SW6 shows a drop in output to show that I've gotten into program mode. 
The only other settings I've tried are strobe, SOS and reset all those work using the pressing method. 

Thanks for fixing the links I'll go have a look there to when I get a chance.
-LT


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## LED Cool (Jul 28, 2007)

hello LT,

i have one customer who was having difficulty in getting his LF2 to response to twisting commands. it turns out that he started the twisting action from the OFF position instead of P1 position. i don't think that is the case here.

also it is very important that users are aware of the correct position of P1 and P2.

P1 position is where the white dot is aligned with the slot on the LF2 body. i.e. the 3 o'clock position when looking from the tail end of LF2.

P2 position is where the white dot is aligned with the flats(no engraving) of the LF2 body. i.e. the 6 o'clock position when looking from the tail end of LF2.

actually strictly speaking there are a wide range of position for P1 and P2. starting from 1 - 5 o'clock can be considered as the P1 position.
starting from 6 - 8(9) o'clock can be considered as the P2 position.

a switching cycle (SW) consists of twisting from P1 to P2 and back to P1. i.e. P1-P2-P1 or P2-P1-P2.

another common glitch that users experienced is the process of performing a SW. each SW must be performed within a period of 1 second. start at P1, twist to P2, (do not wait for any response) and twist back to P1. 

P1-P2-P1 within 1 second. it can be done.

some users would still claimed there is no response from the LF2 even though they have done each SW within 1 second. this is because, in the haste of getting each SW done within 1 second, some users actually did not twist the white dot into the P2 position at all. 

it is recommended that users twist well past the 6pm position (and into 7pm or 8pm) to ensure P2 position is actually reached before twisting back to P1.

for eg, if you are performing a battery voltage check SWx5, and the results is strobe or SOS, that usually means 1 or 2 of the SW was not complete.

for simplicity purpose, let us NOT use the pressing method for this diagnostic and start every SW from P1 to simplify matters.

what i have understand so far are,

in P1, you CANNOT access program mode by twisting SW6, but you can get to strobe, SOS, battery voltage, demo and RESET by TWISTING the relevant SW. is this correct?

in P2, you CAN access program mode by twisting SW6. can you access strobe, SOS, battery voltage, demo and RESET by twisting the relevant SW?

regards,
khoo


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## Lunal_Tic (Jul 28, 2007)

Hi khoo,

I start by turning the light to P1 for a couple of seconds before I start anything. Also I have put a silver mark at both P1 and P2 so it is easier to see where I should be stopping. From P1 SW6 does nothing as far as I can tell. Strobe, SOS, and reset all are accessible. If I hit SW6 should it not give me some visible sign? It does so when I access it starting from P2.

I don't think speed is the problem if I am able to access other modes from both P1 and P2.

-LT


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## LED Cool (Jul 28, 2007)

hello LT,

oh now i see where we are getting at! 

actually when you do SW6 from P1, your LF2 has correctly gone into programming mode! it is just that there is no visible response form the light.

this is because, when in programming mode, the first thing that the LF2 does is to show the output of P1. so when you perform SW6 from P1 there is no change in output. therefore no visible sign that your LF2 has changed mode.

but if you perform SW6 from P2, which has a higher (or lower) output than P1, your LF2 also goes into programming mode and shows the P1 output. therefore you will see a visible change in brightness giving you indication that your LF2 is in programming mode.

there are six output which the user can program.

lets try this.

from P1, do SW6, output is now P1.
then do SW3, output now is the P2.
do SW3 again, output now is slow strobe.
do SW3 again, output now is fast strobe.
do SW3 again, output now is low SOS.
do SW3 again, output now is high SOS.
lastly do SW3 and the light exit programming mode and goes back to standard P1 output.

doing SW3 saves/skips the programming for that output.

the user can access the programming mode from any of the first 4 modes.

LT, please go to P1 strobe or P1 SOS and try the SW6 programming mode. this should give you visible sign that your LF2 has enter into programming mode by showing the output of P1 standard mode.

i hope we have solved the issue now. actually there none to begin with.

regards,
khoo


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## Lunal_Tic (Jul 28, 2007)

Hello khoo,

Now we're making progress. It's not pretty but I've been able to change standard mode P1 and P2. A visual signal that you're actually in program mode sure would be helpful. The silver dots I put on the body of the light actually help a lot for seeing where I'm lined up.

Another question, I'm still not clear on User Adjusted mode (UAM). Is UAM programmable and does it have both a P1 and P2 intensity? I'm trying to set Standard Mode (SM) and UAM to have different intensities so I have 4 levels of light with minimal twisting. Is this possible or is 3 the best I'll get since UAM P1 and P2 are the same intensity at the default setting?

Thanks for your help an patience.
-LT


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## FlashCrazy (Jul 28, 2007)

Lunal_Tic said:


> Another question, I'm still not clear on User Adjusted mode (UAM). Is UAM programmable and does it have both a P1 and P2 intensity? I'm trying to set Standard Mode (SM) and UAM to have different intensities so I have 4 levels of light with minimal twisting. Is this possible or is 3 the best I'll get since UAM P1 and P2 are the same intensity at the default setting?-LT


 
Hi LT,

I figured I'd answer this one for you. When you go into the user adjusted mode (which I think should be called the user _adjustable_ mode, to make it clearer), it ALWAYS starts out at 50% power. While in user adjustable mode and at the P2 position, the brightness will start to increase until it reaches 100%. This takes a few seconds, and is hard to notice at first. To stop it at your desired level, put the light in the P1 position. In the UAM, P1's only function is to stop the light at whatever brightnesss you want. P2 position causes the light to ramp up or down. If you want the light to ramp down in brightness, perform a SWx2 while in user adjustable mode. To go back up, SW x 2 again. These SW x 2's have to start from the P2 postion, so that you end up back in P2 when done...this way it will be in the ramp up (or down) position. 

So...no, you don't have four light level settings....you essentially have three...P1 and P2, and a third which is the UAM that comes on at 50%. Of course then you can change that level to any level you desire. When you turn the light off while in UAM, it will come back on at 50%. P1 will keep it there, P2 will cause it to change. To get back to normal operation, perform a SW x 1.

Clear as mud?!


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## 45/70 (Jul 28, 2007)

I'm not really sure this will help anyone or not, but I think many people rely too much on where the LF-2 barrel/head is at _*visually*_. I always use one hand, and haven't looked at the dot, when adjusting it, since the first day I got it. It just seems much simpler to learn where it changes from P1 to P2 by "feel" and adjust from there. Also, if you use the thread slop method to adjust the LF-2, by it's very nature (having to put the light into P2 before it will work), the light is (after a very short period) already moving through whichever adjustment mode you are in. With the twist method, if you start from P1, the light won't start changing until you proceed to P2. I'm not so sure that jamming the threads together is all that good for them either. I do use this method for getting to the third, or 50% level though. 

Hope this helps. I realize there are different strokes for different folks, and the die hard clickie folks that hate twisties "because you have to use two hands" may have a problem with it. 

Dave


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## Lunal_Tic (Jul 28, 2007)

Thanks guys. Too bad about not having that extra level in UAM; always coming on at 50% makes my ideas for using it change a bit. I was hoping at least to have UAM P2 be set to max so that the seldom used but easy to do double tap in P2 would give me a burst of high output when needed. I'm going to have to rethink how I want to set up the levels again since I currently have P1 extra low and P2 is medium low.

I appreciate the help.
-LT


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## Lunal_Tic (Jul 29, 2007)

FlashCrazy,

Are you certain that UAM always comes on at 50%? I've been trying to set SM P1 low, P2 full power with the expectation that a double press from P2 in SM would take me to the 50% in UAM but it appears to be the same intesity. When programing SM P2 I ramp the light up till it blinks then set at that level, full output.

-LT


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## TCW 60 (Jul 29, 2007)

Lunal_Tic said:


> FlashCrazy,
> 
> Are you certain that UAM always comes on at 50%? I've been trying to set SM P1 low, P2 full power with the expectation that a double press from P2 in SM would take me to the 50% in UAM but it appears to be the same intesity. When programing SM P2 I ramp the light up till it blinks then set at that level, full output.
> 
> -LT



Yes, I made the same observation. I was programming the light with a normal batterie. Is that the reason?. Now I'am waiting for the RCR 10440 .


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## LED Cool (Jul 29, 2007)

guys! guys! please! 

please read the instructions in the first 2 post of this thread and in the sales thread. until you are familiar with the operation of LF2 using the twisting method, i would recommend users not to the pressing method. otherwise you will confused yourself and think that your LF2 is acting strangely or not working as you think it should.

LT, 
flashcrazy is correct. User Adjustable Mode (UAM) always comes on at 50%. it is a factory default setting. no matter what level of output you have adjusted to, once the LF2 is switched off and turn back on again in UAM, the output is always at 50%.

however, if you do not switch off the LF2 but instead change to a different mode such as SM/strobe/SOS and then come back to UAM, the user adjusted output level still remains. lets say you have UAM adjusted to the lowest 0.2% and used it for awhile, then you switched to SM P1, then switched to strobe and then back to UAM. you will find that the 0.2% output is still there. not 50% output.

now lets come to your difficulty in getting 50% output in UAM. i understand you have programmed P1 to low and P2 to 100%. to access a third level output of 50%, try twisting SWx2 from P1. you will see an increase in output to 50%. there is only a slight difference in brightness between 50% and 100%, so it may look like 100% to you.

now lets go back to SM and try SWx2 again but this time from P2. immediately after SWx2 from P2, you will noticed a slight drop in brightness. this indicates your LF2 has reduced the output from 100% to 50%. i.e. the LF2 has enter UAM. BUT (there is a BUT) in UAM, position P2 is used to increase or decrease the output, therefore your LF2 will gradually increase its output to 100% in 8 seconds and flash once when it is done.

if you used the "double tap" method to access UAM, the above mentioned paragraph still applies. and that is why it does not look like 50% because your LF2 is increasing its output to 100% (in 8 seconds) and then flash once. did you notice the flash?

to access UAM 50% by "double tap". please try this.
from P2, press 2 times then twist the white dot to P1. this will give you 50% output.

i hope my explanation above has help some of you gain a better understanding of your LF2. 

please do post here if anyone has any questions regarding the operation of LF2. i will try my best to answer them in details.

in the mean time, play with all the modes and features of LF2 by the twisting method and please start the twisting from P1. NOT P2 because P2 also function as a toggle (increase/decrease) switch and may confuse
some users. when you are familiar with most functions and adjustment, then you can start twisting from P2 (which is equivalent to pressing from P2)

thanks.
khoo


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## LED Cool (Jul 29, 2007)

TCW 60,

please remember to switch on the over discharge battery protection when using RCR10440 Li-Ion battery. you will find that your LF2 will be much brighter when running 10440!

khoo


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## mitchfried (Jul 29, 2007)

How about a click sound or detent to let you know where you're at? This is too much for me. I'm giving it to a client as a gift. He works for NASA so he'll love the flow chart. I recently purchased a Peak Baltic S4 for my son. It's a little bigger but a lot easier to use.


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## 45/70 (Jul 29, 2007)

mitchfried said:


> How about a click sound or detent to let you know where you're at? This is too much for me. I'm giving it to a client as a gift. He works for NASA so he'll love the flow chart. I recently purchased a Peak Baltic S4 for my son. It's a little bigger but a lot easier to use.


A detent would be a nice addition. After using my LF-2 for a while now, I don't really have much problem finding the transition point between P1 and P2. P1 is the first 90 degrees of travel and P2 is approximately 90-180 degrees so, it's not like you have to have much precision as long as your twists include the transition point. Holding the LF-2 with my middle and ring finger and twisting the head with my thumb and index finger, I really don't have a problem with it. If you use two hands to twist it, it would be a lot harder to tell where you're at, without looking. I'm used to it, as I have twenty or so twisties and use all of them with one hand. I can't imagine using two hands. It just seems so awkward, but I know a lot of people do. Different strokes for different folks.

Dave


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## onthebeam (Jul 30, 2007)

*Re: 10440s*

Forgive me if this has been answered before:

What are some good sources of 10440s? I have seen AW's posting here. Other options?

What about chargers? Will the DSD work? Which are recommended? Again, I've seen the Nano but don't see many sources for it. (love my little nano for the orb raw ns)

All of these are unprotected at 3.6 volts plus, I assume.

Are many users going with 10440s exclusively or is the heat too much of an issue?


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## 45/70 (Jul 31, 2007)

*Re: 10440s*



onthebeam said:


> Are many users going with 10440s exclusively or is the heat too much of an issue?



I run mine pretty much only on 10440's. At 100% it gets hot really fast. At 50% it seems fine for a while, maybe it'd be OK indefinitely.

The DSD will work. That's what I use. You *HAVE *to charge the 10440's in pairs though, or you'll kill the batteries, as with one battery, the DSD charges at something over 1C.

AW is, in my opinion the way to go. His 10440's seem better than the UltraFires I got from DX. He also has the Nano's although, I haven't had much luck with them.

Dave


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## Skavoovie (Aug 11, 2007)

*Re: 10440s*



onthebeam said:


> Forgive me if this has been answered before:
> 
> What are some good sources of 10440s? I have seen AW's posting here. Other options?
> ...
> Are many users going with 10440s exclusively or is the heat too much of an issue?



I've been feeding my SSC LF2 AW's 10440s exclusively in the week I have had the light.

I have the LF2 programmed to: 
P1 = 0.2% (lowest low)
P2 = ~15% (the original P1)
Then use user mode for 50%.

Looking at NetKidz mini-review and runtime tests here, 50% with the 10440 is as bright as 100% with NiMH or alkaline.

100% output with the 10440 just isn't worth it, I've found. It is only slightly brighter than 50% while running a risky 1C+ discharge rate and reducing runtime until the Lion protection circuit kicks in to only a few minutes. I played with it a couple times, then stuck with a 50% max for 10440.

As far as heat goes, the first time I ran 50% for roughly 20 minutes, the light became too hot to hold. The second time I attempted it, after an hour, the light became quite warm, but not uncomfortably so. I'm not sure why this happened (pure speculation: "break in" of the thermal compound helped heat transfer more efficiently, keeping the light cooler?).


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## 45/70 (Aug 11, 2007)

*Re: 10440s*



Skavoovie said:


> The second time I attempted it, after an hour, the light became quite warm, but not uncomfortably so.


What brand of 10440's are you using? I haven't timed mine at 50% but I'm pretty sure it won't run an hour.

As far as running at 100%, you're right. It isn't that much brighter than at 50%. Lumen wise, it's about twice, which is great on a light meter but only seems about half again as bright to your eyes. Still, I set my P1 to about 25% and my P2 to 100%. 

Dave


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## Skavoovie (Aug 12, 2007)

*Re: 10440s*



45/70 said:


> What brand of 10440's are you using? I haven't timed mine at 50% but I'm pretty sure it won't run an hour.
> 
> As far as running at 100%, you're right. It isn't that much brighter than at 50%. Lumen wise, it's about twice, which is great on a light meter but only seems about half again as bright to your eyes. Still, I set my P1 to about 25% and my P2 to 100%.
> 
> Dave


I'm using AW's 320mAh 10440 cells: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=166496

"An hour" is likely an over estimation on my part; I didn't time it. It was probably closer to 45 minutes, similar to NetKidz runtime test.

Yeah, I'm not much of a light meter cowboy (I don't own one), so I don't worry maxing it out.




Again I didn't make precise timing, but the LF2 seemed to have maybe 5-10 minutes of runtime at 100% before the protection kicked in and turned off the light. I was playing around with it at different light levels and programming it, might have been quite a bit longer, but it was annoying/scary enough that I backed down to 50%. That's a lot of current/heck of a quick voltage drop out of a little cell. 

If I want brighter, my Seoul'ed LionHeart is usually near by.


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## 45/70 (Aug 12, 2007)

*Re: 10440s*

Thanks for the comeback Skavoovie. I have 2 of AW's and 4 UltraFires. AW's do seem to run longer. If I only use 100% for 10-15 second bursts, it seems to work out well. 90% of the time I don't need that much light anyway. Hey, it's a pocket light, not a search light!



Skavoovie said:


> If I want brighter, my Seoul'ed LionHeart is usually near by.


Is that a Bulk light? Gosh, golly, gee wiz, I wouldn't know anything about them, especially the brass ones. :naughty:

Dave


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## gunga (Aug 13, 2007)

I did some extensive testing earlier at 50% and got about 70 minute (I think) with AW 10440s, I only got aroubd 60 with Ultrafires tho.

You do get what you pay for here.


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## worldedit (Aug 19, 2007)

I have my LF2 with SSC a few month now. I tried it with alkalines and NimH and i was pretty upset. Compared to a Fenix L0D-CE a friend has it was very dimm, had about half the runtime and got extreme hot.
I had no 10440 and didnt want to spend more on this. But once i came home drunk and ordered the 2 cells + nano charger kit here on cpf. I thought this was a bad dicision, but the light works great with this cells. I adjusted P2 mode to a level where the light gets warm but not to hot and its still very bright. Maybe like medium mode on my L2D-CE with about 50min runtime.
Now the light is my edc and im very happy with it. The light should be recommendet to use with lithium cells and alkalines as an emergency.

What i like best about this light is that you dont have to cycle through useless modes. 2 brightness levels accessibly by only one turn, i dont know another light that small that is so easy to handle.

Still there are some things i would change to make this light even better:

1. The user adjustible mode should remember its setting (the newer light already have this i think)
2. In prog mode the light runs through the brightness very quick. Its hard to hit the right spot cause you have to click 4 times. Adjusting it step by step might be better. Make that one SW for 5% up and 2 SW for 5% down maybe.
3. Demo mode(useless mode i think) shows a strobe between high and medium brightness, but i can only programm the light to strobe between on and off.
4. The low voltage shut down needs an override for emergency.
5. A glow mode would be nice. I mean fade the brighness up and down at a medium speed. Nobody needs that but it would look damm cool.
6. Voltage messurement is always lower than the actual battery voltage. I even think it varies when you turn it on from different brightnesses.
7. A locator beacon like the Novatac. I know i could adjust the light to do that but i like having the head tightened when i dont use it.
8. The plastic candle attechment could be little shorter. Only half of it is lit bright.

Sorry if i mention things that have already been discussed.


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## Stereodude (Nov 3, 2007)

I got my light yesterday. I find rotating between P1 and P2 for SW operation very awkward. I find the P2 press operation for SW much easier. Part of the problem with the rotation method is that the documentation is weak on how fast the rotation should occur, do I wait for the light to respond to changes, etc, etc.

Still... I like the light and plan to put it on my keychain.


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## lupy (Nov 6, 2007)

not sure if this has been covered before, long thread. Is default mode with battery protection off or on? 

after sw8, light is flashing about 1X sec, how do I tell if I have correctly switched to battery protection mode, or out of it?

Thanks


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## Thujone (Nov 6, 2007)

lupy said:


> not sure if this has been covered before, long thread. Is default mode with battery protection off or on?
> 
> after sw8, light is flashing about 1X sec, how do I tell if I have correctly switched to battery protection mode, or out of it?
> 
> Thanks




Off = 1hz
On = 2hz

Cycle it with a SWx2 once in the SWx8 menu.


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## Stereodude (Nov 6, 2007)

lupy said:


> not sure if this has been covered before, long thread. Is default mode with battery protection off or on?


Default is off.


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## lupy (Nov 6, 2007)

thanks!, got it working now. One thing a little disturbing, I got a little dust on the emiter and went to wipe it off gently, it's a jell, soft not solid still seems to work fine, but I don't think I will be taking the head off again to use it as a candle. How do you clean it if it get's dirty? Maybe a damp Q tip? this is the ssc version.


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## 83Venture (Nov 7, 2007)

Thats one of the reasons I got a Cree instead of an SSC.


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## thiswayup (Nov 11, 2007)

83Venture said:


> Thats one of the reasons I got a Cree instead of an SSC.



The greater delicacy of the SSC would only matter if you take the head off to use the light as a candle. Given there is a diffuser, I think it is better to use it! Especially as the SSC seems to give better beam quality than Crees. (?)


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## lupy (Nov 11, 2007)

using the diffuser requires unscrewing the head and screwing on the diffuser which exposes the emiter for at least a few seconds. I understand that some of the other LF's now come with a snap on diffuser, which is a nice idea, I asume that one is in the works for the LF2 

Generally though, I am not going to have the diffuser with me, as I got this to use as a super small keychain light. Carying another tube on the off chance I will need the diffuser just isn't going to happen. Plus it would be full of lint if I carried it around in my pocket, and probably counterproductive to keeping the emitter clean. 

I think I will just leave the top on, and only use the candle feature in a pinch.


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## thiswayup (Nov 12, 2007)

LED Cool said:


> visual cues and "feel in the dark" cues are both good idea but it is very challenging to find a solution to satisfy both criteria. i supposed GID dimple dots that raised above the head and body could do the trick but that solution could be time consuming and would significantly increase the production cost.



Doing *either* would be easy and greatly improve the light. The current design of the light could be modified without remachining by:

i. Epoxying a washer into position where the bezel marker is.

ii. Filling the washer and P1/P2 marker slots with GITD epoxy.

GITD epoxy is so cheap the cost doesn't need calculating. I doubt the cost of employing someone to do this sort of work in China is more $10 a day. At 10 minutes per light, that adds about 20 cents to production cost, to make a light that is _*easily usable in the dark. *_Which is what I think users have a right to expect from a flashlight. 

The other major improvement Liteflux needs to make is re-draft their instruction manual, employing someone who actually speaks English, and to print it in a font that is about four times as big. Regarding the re-draft, there will be something on CPF shortly that they may want to use. See

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/179843

At the moment Liteflux is one of those companies that is doing all the hard things right - an obviously robust product, a UI that actually *is* very easy to use, excellent beam quality, excellent regulation, etc - but greatly reduced in appeal by problems that could be corrected for a few cents. 

It's a real shame to see what could have been a brilliant product weakened this way. It's the still the light I'd buy for myself, but I wouldn't tell anyone else to get one unless they at least had access to the replacement instruction manual.

Beside the above, the next run should have knurling everywhere it doesn't now, plus Surefire style o-rings (removeable for sleeker carry).


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## lupy (Nov 12, 2007)

Having glow in the handle would be nice on the bigger lights, but for the LF2, which rides in my pocket all the time, I don't think it would have much of a charge when I need it. As far as being able to see or feel the position of the head, I think they add the current spot at the end of production to make sure it lines up with the flat, so anything would need to be added after the hardcoat goes on. I would worry that any epoxy would eventualy flake off, so maybe a small machined spot that cuts through the hardcoat. At least it would be easier to see than the current dot. 

As far as a redesign on the LF2, I think a smaller and more key ring usable rear would really help. This is a pocket light, and anything that reduces the lump in the pocket is good in my book. 

This is my attempt:









It reduces the dia of the rear from .55 to .485" which dosn't sound like a lot, but I really notice the differance. 

I also rounded the rear more, as I really felt the sharp edge in my pocket. 

Most importantly, I put a usable keyring hole in it. The stock keyring hole is patterned after the bigger lights, and even with the little split ring, just dosn't lay flat in my pocket. This has the added benifit that when using the light, the keyring keeps the tail from rotating. I have found that this makes it much easier to turn on and use funtions. Also, it nests better with my keys

Because I can't do hardcoat, I chose monel, which is more corrosion resistant than Stainless, somewht easier to machine, and most important, something I had laying around. 
I think the thickness, even in aluminum is still enough for this light, if it gets run over by a car, it's going to be destroyed anyway, the head is where the delicate parts are.


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## thiswayup (Nov 12, 2007)

lupy said:


> Having glow in the handle would be nice on the bigger lights, but for the LF2, which rides in my pocket all the time, I don't think it would have much of a charge when I need it.



That is a good point. It probably applies to all the LF Beacon series somewhat. How long does GITD take to charge?

Edited to add: the charge time for GITD powder is low according to the research I've just done, but even the highest quality stuff seems to lose brightness very fast - probably isn't worth it, given that you'll be looking at those slots with eyes that are NOT night adapted. Which makes me irritated that those slots are not deep enough for tritiums, and that there isn't a bezel slot!


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## jnj1033 (Nov 13, 2007)

Got mine two days ago and I love it. I like where the default 15% and 50% low and high settings are. I use the user adjustable mode for my higher high or lower low settings depending on need. Depending on my circumstances, I set the UAM to one or the other so I can quickly switch into it.

Also, I find it easy to operate one handed. And yes, I can (usually) operate it in the dark. Sometimes I have to turn it off to reset my kinesthetic reference points.

I really like the fact that I cannot perceive any flickering, even on the lowest low. I considered a Fenix L0D, but decided against it because some people have complained about the flickering issue. I also like access to an extremely dim low setting, and that the LF2 appears to have better regulation than the Fenix.

Two things I would change:

1. More knurling. Before I learned to avoid it, I almost unscrewed the reflector/lense assembly instead of the head when trying to turn the light on.

2. Rate of increase in user adjustable mode. As we know, the human eye does not perceive light in a linear fashion. In UAM, the light level seems to shoot up quickly from the lowest level, but approaching the highest level is like watching a sunrise. I have timed it at 16 seconds from low to the blink that indicates maximum. I would prefer a rate of increase that takes human perception into account: slower in the dimmer levels and faster as the light gets brighter. The low levels change too fast to pick what I want, and waiting for a perceptible change in the higher levels is like watching grass grow.


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## daywalker (Nov 13, 2007)

Hi lupy,

just have a look here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/169069

in this case you can carry a spare batterie with you and you have your diffuser always with you. Pictures can be found on Page 3 at post#86.

I still have some of those caps.



lupy said:


> using the diffuser requires unscrewing the head and screwing on the diffuser which exposes the emiter for at least a few seconds. I understand that some of the other LF's now come with a snap on diffuser, which is a nice idea, I asume that one is in the works for the LF2
> 
> Generally though, I am not going to have the diffuser with me, as I got this to use as a super small keychain light. Carying another tube on the off chance I will need the diffuser just isn't going to happen. Plus it would be full of lint if I carried it around in my pocket, and probably counterproductive to keeping the emitter clean.
> 
> I think I will just leave the top on, and only use the candle feature in a pinch.


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## Tubor (Nov 13, 2007)

jnj1033 said:


> Got mine two days ago and I love it. I like where the default 15% and 50% low and high settings are. I use the user adjustable mode for my higher high or lower low settings depending on need. Depending on my circumstances, I set the UAM to one or the other so I can quickly switch into it.
> 
> Also, I find it easy to operate one handed. And yes, I can (usually) operate it in the dark. Sometimes I have to turn it off to reset my kinesthetic reference points.
> 
> ...



Sums it up for me too, 1 & 2! Definitely would like more low-level control, and less time at the higher-end (but not too much less!). Love the programmable strobe. That's what sold it for me and will do again if the LF5 ever re-arrives. A momentary on button would make it ideal (in last twisty mode). Might be able to do that myself actually.


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## Curious_character (Nov 13, 2007)

lupy said:


> thanks!, got it working now. One thing a little disturbing, I got a little dust on the emiter and went to wipe it off gently, it's a jell, soft not solid still seems to work fine, but I don't think I will be taking the head off again to use it as a candle. How do you clean it if it get's dirty? Maybe a damp Q tip? this is the ssc version.


I use a piece of lens cleaning paper or microfiber cloth (same things you use to wipe lenses) soaked with alcohol. You can gently wipe it with either of these, dry, too. The silicone material feels soft but it's pretty tough.

c_c


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## FlashCrazy (Nov 13, 2007)

lupy said:


> One thing a little disturbing, I got a little dust on the emiter and went to wipe it off gently, it's a jell, soft not solid still seems to work fine, but I don't think I will be taking the head off again to use it as a candle. How do you clean it if it get's dirty? Maybe a damp Q tip? this is the ssc version.


 
Blue masking tape (3M brand) works great. Just tear a small piece off the roll and gently dab it on the emitter...takes the dust off and doesn't leave a residue. You have to put the lens housing back on right after cleaning, or the SSC will quickly collect dust again. They're dust magnets!


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## Tubor (Nov 17, 2007)

Just tried 10440's in mine and _they're great_! Definitely feels like it was optimised for them over NiMh, although output on NiMh is pretty good too. 
The standard low/high (15%/50%) seems more natural, and the voltage read-out and li-ion protection are excellent features to have.


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## Gatsby (Nov 19, 2007)

I have an LF5 and am generally very happy with that light - particularly on 14500's it is a real nice package with a lot of output and a nice low low. So I picked up an LF2 on the marketplace for my new keychain light.

Overall it is interesting how there are some differences between the LF2 and presumably the rest of the beacon series - the other lights do not have the screw on diffuser which I like since I don't have to take off the lense and bezel to put it on, it's not as efficient but easier and more proteccted. I like the OP reflector on the LF2 - it puts out an ideal key chain light beam - some hot spot but nice and floody with no artifacts. 

But the switch in my LF2 at least appears to be slightly off. With no battery and screwed down the dot lines up just slightly past the flat part of the body rather than in the middle. This slight difference appears to create an issue with the battery length and spring - so that when loaded with an energizer E2 lithium cell the last 1/4 turn or so to get it to turn off is VERY hard - kind of loosens a bit once in place - but I worry about the impact on the threads and the battery as well. I've lubricated the threads appropriately and without the battery they're nice and smooth. 

The switch either needs to be about 1/32 - 1/16 of an inch or so closer to the body side of the head, or the spring needs to be shortened by about the same amount. In the interim, I've made it nice and smooth by adding a small brass washer in the head over the switch with the positive contact through the middle and this has made the light operate much better - I still cover the oring although I've added a 1.5mm gap when tightened down where it used to be flush with the lip on the body. I wish I could find a slightly slimmer brass washer but this will work for the time being. It does make me wonder if there is a way to adjust the switch position like in the LF5 where there are the two holes you can use to tighten it down or loosen it up.

A great little light with a wonderful beam, a lot of really useful features and well built. However, a little more attention to the switch may be in order since it seems like there are a few nagging problems with the two way switch aligning properly.


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## Ducaticorse (Nov 19, 2007)

Just wanted to throw my $0.02 in here on the LF2. I have had mine for a week or two and like many, had a bit of trouble initially with the UI. I persisted and experimented a little and decided that I like it pretty well. Once you get "the hang of it," the UI isn't bad at all. I find myself doing the "press" version rather than the "twist" version, I seem to have much better luck successfully navigating using the press. 

I am waiting on my Nano and 10440's from AW, but compared to a basic LOD, I'm very happy with the output on an Eneloop. I didn't buy the light for screaming output (have others for that), and I really strongly prefer the SSC's floody pattern for an EDC/keychain light vs. the LOD. My son now EDC's the LOD and he loves it - horses for courses, as they say!

Agreed with some of the other comments in the thread on additional knurling. My LF2 v2.0 wishlist would be:

-Significant knurling, like the Nitecore or HDS/Novatac lights
-"Natural" (not black) HAIII finish option _(The one thing I miss about my LOD )
-_Tactile slots/dots/holes/flats to more easily find the twisty positions in the dark
-Lupy-style (nice work on that custom body!) lanyard ring attachment, I agree that the current style is less-than-optimal

I have personally become accustomed to operating the LF2 one-handed without much issue, (including the press-switch to User-Mode) but some nice knurling would help facilitate the one-handed operation in a good way.

Thanks to Khoo for the strong support of the LiteFlux gear here on CPF, and to the various folks posting in the thread here with tips/suggestions. I wouldn't have found the LF2 nearly as handy or easy to get along with in the absence of your input. :twothumbs


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## Tubor (Nov 19, 2007)

,Ducaticourse, you're going to love it on 10440's. I liked mine on eneloop, but it's now my favourite light on 10440's! Standard low/high feels just right, and max is an impressive, smooth beam. 


Gatsby, that's sounds interesting - can you post a picture of you LF2 with the washer in place so I can get a better idea of what you meant. Thanks, but don't worry if you haven't got a camera/free picture login/etc.


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## dynamicvelocity (Nov 26, 2007)

So i got my LF2 after much nuisance from the postoffice holding it... and i love it... thought i had a dud until i realised the switching action had to be performed quickly, not slowly.

I dunno if anyone has tried any dunk tests, on the LF2, but i thought i'd give it a shot...

buy the way, i don't know if there's a 'prescribed method' for this so this is my DIY technique

A) take LF2 off keychain (turn on).
B) dunk in glass of water, and watch for bubbles
c) take out of water dry off outside and check inside for wet/dryness.

the first 2 images are with the diffuser, the others are with the reflector.



















observation: it does not float.

it was in there for about 16 minutes i would guess (the duration of the test)
though i had to take it out to change heads.

result: Dry inside, wet outside & the o-ring seals do their job (no doubt aided by the grease) and keep water out....:twothumbs
i don't want to go taking it underwater in a pool:green: though, is anyone else game to?


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## Kilovolt (Nov 26, 2007)

Interesting test Dynamicvelocity, thanks. 

Since you appear to be resourceful why don't you perform a higher depht test in a pool? You don't need to go into the water yourself, just put the light in using a fishing rod or something similar.


BTW: :welcome:


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## dynamicvelocity (Nov 26, 2007)

funny the images from the earlier post no longer seem to appear... i wonder if that's just my browser?:thinking:

to:- Kilovolt
RE: pool test

yes, well, i suppose "resourceful" is the only choice for the unequiped. regarding the pool idea, i'm not afraid of the water - i just don't want to risk water getting into my nice new LF2. and since it's not covered by any warranty as being "waterproof", i'm not going to push it.
Where as, if someone with a few of the units or a budget that could accomodate a (however unlikely) unit failure, would do the test, i would be interested in the result... (for example, i would be more interested to test mine if someone else tested there's first, and it came out ok.) (and then showed pictures of it.)


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## Kilovolt (Nov 26, 2007)

LED Cool, do you happen to own a fishing rod and have a swimming pool near where you're staying ???


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## Curious_character (Nov 28, 2007)

LED Cool said:


> . . .
> 
> LT,
> flashcrazy is correct. User Adjustable Mode (UAM) always comes on at 50%. it is a factory default setting. no matter what level of output you have adjusted to, once the LF2 is switched off and turn back on again in UAM, the output is always at 50%.


I just received my new version light today. Apparently the programming has been changed, because when I turn on the light (at P1 position) in UAM (either after turning off in UAM or getting there via SWx2), it comes on at the light level it was at when I turned it off. I've verified this with a light meter. It looks like it forgets the up/down toggle, so it always starts with the toggle in the increasing position. I like the memory of the last level, because I can use it as a third, reasonably quickly, accessed level.

The light is really amazing - super bright and with a beautiful white beam. The only problem I've had with it is occasional erratic contact in the P2 position. A little Pro Gold helped, but it's still occasionally happening. It appears that the pressure might be marginal to bite through the oxide coatings of the metals making contact -- aluminum and tin? Anyway, if I don't have continuing contact trouble, it'll probably replace the L0D CE that's always in my pocket.

c_c


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## FlashCrazy (Nov 29, 2007)

Curious_character said:


> I just received my new version light today. Apparently the programming has been changed, because when I turn on the light (at P1 position) in UAM (either after turning off in UAM or getting there via SWx2), it comes on at the light level it was at when I turned it off.


 
Hi Curious. Yeah, the new version LF2's have a memory feature for the UAM, so that mode will come on at the same level where it was last set.


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## cave dave (Nov 29, 2007)

My LF2 isn't working properly anymore, and its only a few months old. :shakehead

It works OK in switch position P1, but flickers and dims in P2. It acts like the P2 switch contact is dirty, but there seems to be no way to get it apart to clean it. I cleaned the visible parts with Deoxit but it didn't help any. 

I think this is the weak point of the design. With no way to clean these switch they will eventually fail. Anybody have pictures of the switch mechanism? I am curious how they work. (or don't work in my case) I think the bigger LF lights can be taken apart to expose the switch mechanism.

I liked the light and was planning on getting an LF5 and maybe an LF3, but not with this experience. :thumbsdow


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## Curious_character (Nov 29, 2007)

cave dave said:


> My LF2 isn't working properly anymore, and its only a few months old. :shakehead
> 
> It works OK in switch position P1, but flickers and dims in P2. It acts like the P2 switch contact is dirty, but there seems to be no way to get it apart to clean it. I cleaned the visible parts with Deoxit but it didn't help any.
> 
> ...


This sure looks like the same thing I've been seeing erratically with my new light. I suspect that the contact pressure in the P2 position between the barrel and the switch disk isn't enough to get through the oxides of the metals being used for contacts. If the switch disk is tin plated, it'll very likely develop fretting corrosion, where pieces of hard and insulating tin oxide get broken off and embedded in the softer metallic tin underneath. Before long, the whole surface consists of pieces of tin oxide which can't be broken through. If that's what happened, there's no amount of cleaning which will remedy the problem. It seems like the same thing would happen to the aluminum part of the contact (the barrel), but it could be sanded down from time to time to get a fresh surface.

c_c


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## Tubor (Nov 29, 2007)

I had the same problem but wiping all the threads clean of _everything_ inside and out, then re-applying Pro-gold to the threads (but not to the silver contact plates in the head of the light) did the trick. I think the lube isn't conductive and when changing the battery it can get over the contacts (and everywhere else), so only apply lube/nyogel to the rubber o-ring. Afterwards, maybe try lubing just the top of the threads only to give a smoother twisting action (but not the contact part) and see how it goes. Lube to free it but make sure you've got good contact first. Too much Pro gold can cause problems as well as you may get shorts. Hope that sorts it out.


Another few suggestions for the LF2 Mk2: 

(1) Another twisty memory mode would be great, maybe have less space between the different modes, more space after off as well as that is very minimal and may not wear well. 

(2) Being able to save a configured strobe mode as one of the "standard" memory modes if desired, having 3 standard twisty positions would make this even better.

(3){a.} A momentary button with a separate configured setting (strobe or standard brightness level), giving a total of 4 "standard" settings (always on or strobe).
{b.} If the above is unfeasable then maybe incorporating a button to help with mode switching would be better, with twisty modes as well for complexity/functions.

4.) Brighter, especially the LF3 and LF5 - the batteries are bigger and the fact that they can safely support higher currents should be reflected in the "Max" setting.

5.) I'd really like to see a 18650 option for super long runtime.


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## Curious_character (Dec 10, 2007)

I'm getting pretty fond of the little light, but have a problem.

The light turns on (P1) when I turn the head as little as one dot width from very tightly clockwise. I'm worried it might come on in my pocket, although I don't think it has yet. But with the O-ring in place, I have to apply a very large amount of force to get the head turned clockwise enough to turn the light off, and likewise have to apply a large amount of force to turn the light on. (Yes, I've lubricated it, with the lightest of several lubricants I use for other lights.) The friction is normal for a lubricated O-ring until the last partial turn, where it gets very hard to turn. And it's necessary to get it turned that last little bit in order to turn the light off. So I can use it only with the O-ring removed. I don't think it's a problem with the cell size -- I have exactly the same problem with an Eneloop, 1000 mAh Sanyo, 900 mAh Energizer, and AW 10440.

Has anyone else seen this? Does anyone have a solution?

c_c


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## LED Cool (Dec 11, 2007)

hi c_c,

if you take out the battery in your LF2, is it still hard to turn "the last little bit" ?

khoo


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## LED Cool (Dec 11, 2007)

cave dave said:


> My LF2 isn't working properly anymore, and its only a few months old. :shakehead
> 
> It works OK in switch position P1, but flickers and dims in P2. It acts like the P2 switch contact is dirty, but there seems to be no way to get it apart to clean it. I cleaned the visible parts with Deoxit but it didn't help any.



cave dave, sorry for the late response. please try a reset (SWx10) and see if it solves the P2 output problem.

khoo


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## naturelle (Dec 11, 2007)

Hello,



cave dave said:


> My LF2 isn't working properly anymore, and its only a few months old. :shakehead
> 
> It works OK in switch position P1, but flickers and dims in P2. It acts like the P2 switch contact is dirty, but there seems to be no way to get it apart to clean it. I cleaned the visible parts with Deoxit but it didn't help any.


I have got exactly the same problem since today (diff: it´s flickering in P1, too). But: my LF2 is only about two weeks old
I´ve cleaned it a few times and I´ve tried it with different batteries, but: no way. Before this occured I´ve noticed a humming on levels between 20% and 80%.
As I have activated undervoltage-protection, my light now is turning off after a few seconds, no way to hold it on.

And: I cannot reach any other programming-position (including Reset) because the light isn´t able any more to count the switches (SW) correctly.

Ah, one more: IMO it is not important how (or not) the threads are lubed (except for overlubing them), because the threads are insulated with anodizing and not necessary for starting the light. Only the flat surface on the top of the body is important for contact.



> I liked the light and was planning on getting an LF5 and maybe an LF3, but not with this experience. :thumbsdow



Yesterday I´ve ordered one LF3 and one more LF2 from Khoo (I was impressed from his fast and reliable service), and today my existing LF2 faults after only a few days in my hands. I´m sad:thumbsdow:hairpull:


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## Gatsby (Dec 11, 2007)

LED Cool said:


> hi c_c,
> 
> if you take out the battery in your LF2, is it still hard to turn "the last little bit" ?
> 
> khoo


 
This was the same problem I had although it seemed better with an alkaline. However, it did not do it without a battery in place which is why I suspected the battery length and spring to be the issue. With the brass washer in place it works just fine, although the dots don't line up (but without a battery the dots don't line up either...).

I'll try to remember to take a picture to show what it looks like.


----------



## Curious_character (Dec 12, 2007)

LED Cool said:


> hi c_c,
> 
> if you take out the battery in your LF2, is it still hard to turn "the last little bit" ?
> 
> khoo


D'oh! It was entirely cockpit error (to be generous to myself). Not using my glasses, I hadn't seen that the O-ring was already in place. I had put on a second one (the spare) where it didn't belong, and it was apparently interfering with the threads. Sometimes I feel pretty stupid. And sometimes I feel _very_ stupid. . .

c_c


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## naturelle (Dec 24, 2007)

Today my replacement LF2 arrived. It´s delivery was faster than the second LF2 (although Khoo sent it after my second LF2), which has not arrived me yet. I think it´s because the replacement-light was delivered "naked", without the wooden-box, so the envelope was smaller.

The light is working fine, I´m happy again!

Khoo´s service is very fast and satisfying!:wave:


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## cave dave (Dec 24, 2007)

LED Cool said:


> cave dave, sorry for the late response. please try a reset (SWx10) and see if it solves the P2 output problem.
> 
> khoo


I'll try that when I get back home. Also around the same time this problem developed I noticed a high pitch whine at P2.


----------



## victor01 (Dec 25, 2007)

The LF2 is an amazing little light. The single AAA form factor is perfect for EDC. Great for general indoor use and has extra power, when you need it. Its programmability clearly makes it the most innovative light in its class. The battery voltage report is really unique. The long interval strobe, which is user definable, is useful for signaling during night walk.
IMO, there are only 2 things that could use some improvements, they are

1. Better textile feedback on the bezel marking, so it could be better operated in the dark.

2. Improved user manual - I feel one has to overcome the language barrier, before getting to the concept of programming the light.


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## gravityz (Dec 29, 2007)

can anybody tell me where to buy this light?
does it still has a cree P4 or are they using something better these days.
how does it compare to the lod when using nimh batteries

thanks


----------



## Kilovolt (Dec 29, 2007)

You can buy it directly from LEDCool:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=169290

I think that now the only readily available version is the one with an SSC P4 U bin although there was also the CREE version until not long ago. In any case I have the SSC + OP reflector type and the beam is just great.


----------



## gravityz (Dec 29, 2007)

Kilovolt said:


> You can buy it directly from LEDCool:
> 
> http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=169290
> 
> I think that now the only readily available version is the one with an SSC P4 U bin although there was also the CREE version until not long ago. In any case I have the SSC + OP reflector type and the beam is just great.


 

thanks

damned the cree version is not available at the moment.

my experience is that the cree versions give more light than the ssc's while still having better batteryruntime.


----------



## MarNav1 (Dec 29, 2007)

For my personal taste only, I've had a couple in this series and they are just too complicated to operate. Maybe it's just not as intuitive for me as other CPF'ers. I was really excited about this series as I have a couple LF1 lights and they are much more up my alley. This is not a slam on the LF2, just a personal observation. The lights looked well made and I like the box and the extra's (even grease) and those give the light a touch of class IMO, would be nice to see on some other brands. So I'll stick with the LF1 and mod them with Seoul emitters, nice little lights.


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## naturelle (Dec 29, 2007)

I do not agree. My LF2 and LF3 do have the same UI, and I think it´s not too complicated. The first impression was "oh, what an awful UI", but after trying it and findig out what to do to program it and what they mean with "switch" I think in daily use the lights are easy to use, much more easy than all the other multimode-lights, where I have to switch OFF and ON and OFF and ON very quick to change mode. And:
ON the Liteflux it is my decision what´s the first output: ultra-low, low, medium, high, max. AS I prefer, and not as the manufacturer prefer.
In my opinion the Liteflux UI is the best I´ve seen the last times on mass-market-lights.

And the machining is very good, too. Equal or better than my Jetbeam Mk2 or Mk2x, and theses lights are much better machined then my Fenix P1 or some P1DCE I´ve tested.


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## gravityz (Dec 29, 2007)

what about the decission of led cool not to supply the cree p4 version anymore

i am under the assumption that the cree p4 is still superiour to the ssc p4


edited:
Got a very good explanation from khoo aboot the decission to go with the ssc p4


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## MarNav1 (Dec 29, 2007)

naturelle said:


> I do not agree. My LF2 and LF3 do have the same UI, and I think it´s not too complicated. The first impression was "oh, what an awful UI", but after trying it and findig out what to do to program it and what they mean with "switch" I think in daily use the lights are easy to use, much more easy than all the other multimode-lights, where I have to switch OFF and ON and OFF and ON very quick to change mode. And:
> ON the Liteflux it is my decision what´s the first output: ultra-low, low, medium, high, max. AS I prefer, and not as the manufacturer prefer.
> In my opinion the Liteflux UI is the best I´ve seen the last times on mass-market-lights.
> 
> And the machining is very good, too. Equal or better than my Jetbeam Mk2 or Mk2x, and theses lights are much better machined then my Fenix P1 or some P1DCE I´ve tested.


As my post said, too complicated for (ME) TO OPERATE, not everybody. I'm glad you are satisfied with your light's, I wasn't.


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## naturelle (Dec 29, 2007)

MARNAV1 said:


> As my post said, to complicated for (ME) TO OPERATE, not everybody. I'm glad you are satisfied with your light's, I wasn't.


Yes, I´ve read it. And that was the reason to announce my personal experience:wave:


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## JJohn (Dec 29, 2007)

lupy said:


> It reduces the dia of the rear from .55 to .485" which dosn't sound like a lot, but I really notice the differance.
> 
> I also rounded the rear more, as I really felt the sharp edge in my pocket.
> 
> ...



Would you consider making any more of these bodies? I think this would be ideal for me (and probably others) as I can really feel the difference between carrying my ArcAAA and the LF2. I would be glad to pay for the work and materials. The only thing I would do differently is have a flat end rather than the keychain end. I carry my EDC in the coin pocket of my jeans and any reduction in size is greatly appreciated. I also never use my EDC on my keys. I glue a rare earth magnet disk on the rear end so that not only can it tail-stand but I can also stick it on the side of a computer rack that I am working on.


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## cave dave (Jan 1, 2008)

LED Cool said:


> cave dave, sorry for the late response. please try a reset (SWx10) and see if it solves the P2 output problem.
> 
> khoo



I tried the factory reset and the LF2 still isn't working correctly. I will PM you about a replacement.


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## kooter (Jan 1, 2008)

If this light had a different LED in it, and was more of a thrower, i would have one.


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## Thujone (Jan 1, 2008)

Kooter: If you want more of a thrower the Extreme III AAA from arcmania uses a rebel and projects much more light. While still having the LF UI.

Happy New Year!!


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## kooter (Jan 1, 2008)

Thujone, im thinking about the extreme, but its 100 bucks more than the LF2.


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## gravityz (Jan 1, 2008)

is it possible to fit a rebel100 in the lf2?
will this fit and be bright or will the currrent be to low?


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## Curious_character (Jan 2, 2008)

gravityz said:


> is it possible to fit a rebel100 in the lf2?
> will this fit and be bright or will the currrent be to low?


What would be the advantage?

c_c


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## gravityz (Jan 2, 2008)

Curious_character said:


> What would be the advantage?
> 
> c_c


 

longer runtime.

brightness(only with 10440)


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## Curious_character (Jan 2, 2008)

gravityz said:


> longer runtime.
> 
> brightness(only with 10440)


Sorry, I still don't understand what the advantage would be.

As I understand it, the LF2 comes with either a Seoul (SSC) P4 or a Cree XR-E emitter. The Rebel "100", SSC P4, and Cree Q5 all have a typical output of 170 - 180 lm at 700 mA, so their outputs are about the same.

The power consumed by each is the product of current and forward voltage. The typical forward voltages for the Rebel, SSC, and Cree are 3.4, 3.25, and 3.3 volts respectively at 350 mA, but all three have a much wider and overlapping range which an individual LED voltage can be. You wouldn't be able to count on any one type having a higher or lower Vf than another.

Except for individual LED variations, the LEDs will be driven at very nearly the same current even with a poor regulator, since their forward voltages are similar. And driven at the same current, the LEDs will all consume very nearly the same power, and produce the same amount of light. Then how can changing from one type to another increase the run time or brightness?

c_c


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## gravityz (Jan 2, 2008)

makes a bit sense if you put it that way

anyway.
i ordered a LF2 despite the fact that it has a SSC P4 led instead of a cree

hopefully i will be supprised by the SSC output and color otherwise this will be my last SSC P4 buy


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## Thujone (Jan 2, 2008)

gravityz said:


> hopefully i will be supprised by the SSC output and color otherwise this will be my last SSC P4 buy



I can tell you I have many of each LED, I have never used an SSC and said I wish the beam were better. But I have said just that on about half of my cree lights.


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## naturelle (Jan 2, 2008)

Thujone said:


> I can tell you I have many of each LED, I have never used an SSC and said I wish the beam were better. But I have said just that on about half of my cree lights.


The beam is not depending on the LED, it´s depending on the reflector. This was very good visible to me when I bought a Liteflux LF3. The LF3 has got a more narrow center beam than my Mk2, Mk2x or Rexlight have. And the LF3 has got a smooth reflector while the other lights have got an OP reflector.

In other words: very good, really calculated reflectors are much better than only simple-made reflectors.


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## Thujone (Jan 2, 2008)

naturelle said:


> The beam is not depending on the LED, it´s depending on the reflector. This was very good visible to me when I bought a Liteflux LF3. The LF3 has got a more narrow center beam than my Mk2, Mk2x or Rexlight have. And the LF3 has got a smooth reflector while the other lights have got an OP reflector.
> 
> In other words: very good, really calculated reflectors are much better than only simple-made reflectors.



Well you are half right, the reflector is very important in beam quality. But the other half of the equation is indeed the emitter. Its beam dispersion makes it easy or hard on the reflector designer. And As I and others have stated the cree lights have a higher tendency to have a dark ring around the hotpot, and just generally have a lower quality beam.


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## naturelle (Jan 3, 2008)

Hey Thujone, I think we are both right 

EDIT: and I would prefer the more floody beam from my LF2-SSC to every other Cree light as I use it as a low-distance light. An AAA-light never could be a good thrower, but with the right reflector and LED it´s a very good keychain-light.


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## gravityz (Jan 4, 2008)

i have a question regading the lf2 SSC P4

i know the SSC P4 uses some kind of silicone dome.

are there any known issues that somebody took the head of, put it back on and that the reflector is damaging the dome.

it looks to me the reflector is a tight fit around the dome so if the led is lightly offcentred it might get damaged when fitting the reflector

i have currently a LF2 on order and i hate to see it get damaged(or somebody in the factory damaged it for me)

FYI i have no intention to swap the head with the diffuser because i do not want to get dirt alover my led.
thanks


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## Kilovolt (Jan 4, 2008)

I just checked the situation for you on my LF2/SSC P4. 

First of all there is some room between the emitter and the hole in the reflector. Not much but enough.
Secondly the reflector is tightly screwed inside the head and when you tighten the head onto the body the reflector itself can not move sideways.

All considered I think there is no danger of damaging the emitter also because there is no need of opening the head often.
Of course in case you swap the emitter you must be very careful when centering the new one, but this applies to all flashlights.

:wave:


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## gravityz (Jan 4, 2008)

ok thanks

i was only talking about the case that it might be offcentre when in leaves the factory.

i do not know the liteflux quality control but you can imagine that people are screwing the head on without watching.

hopefully mine will arrive fast
it is supposed to be a gift but if i like it i might buy one extra for myself.

i am probably gonna use it only indoor when i need some extra light eg when i open op my computer etc.

thanks


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## Kilovolt (Jan 4, 2008)

BTW I have found that this old post is all you really need to program the two levels to your liking:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showpost.php?p=1945881&postcount=52

and I keep it handy.


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## gravityz (Jan 4, 2008)

very handy

i however gonna leave it at the factory default(may bee low a bit lower)

P1 low
P2 50%

switch to user definable mode
go to 100%
leave

i think i have read that there is user definable memory mode so next time i switch to user efinable mode it still is at 100%

see how this works

if not i will indeed program p2 at 100%


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## gravityz (Jan 5, 2008)

another question(pending the arrival of my LF2)

i have downloaded the manula and most of it is clear to me except setting the strobe timing.

how does that work?
when you select on time and then increase/decrease does it start blinking more/less rapidly

eg does it change timing up and down and you just selst P1 when you see the timing you like?


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## Kilovolt (Jan 5, 2008)

Sorry Gravityz but I simply hate strobe and SOS so I am not in a position to help you. :shrug:

All my Fenix lights gather dust on a shelf because they do have both strobe and SOS that can not be easily avoided. :shakehead


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## gravityz (Jan 5, 2008)

i agree

strobe is for show(maybee for defense since the lf2 can be locked in this mode)
sos is way to slow(on the fenix) and useless since nobody knows anymore what it means in a case of emergency.




Kilovolt said:


> Sorry Gravityz but I simply hate strobe and SOS so I am not in a position to help you. :shrug:
> 
> All my Fenix lights gather dust on a shelf because they do have both strobe and SOS that can not be easily avoided. :shakehead


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## 83Venture (Feb 2, 2008)

Two things I have learned for the LF2:

1: I have a couple of USB drives that each came with a neck lanyard and a quick detach for the Drive. I took the QD part from the drive and threaded it through the hole and slot. Works as a fob and you can use the neck lanyard for the light if you like.

2: If you need to hang the LF2 straight down you can pinch off one side of a small binder clip, hold it tight together and put inside the rear and let the clip expand into the two holes. Makes a nice little handle to half-hitch onto. Works well with the diffuser. Think it would work well in a small tent at night. 

I have tried to bend the ends backwards and put it into the holes from the outside which would preserver the candle standing mode that you loose if you use number 2 above and it worked but one of the metal ends broke. I will have to try again a few times and see if I can get it right.


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## derfyled (Feb 3, 2008)

I know I'm kind of late and everything has been said about the LF2 but here is my review.

Service / ordering:

The package arrived quickly in a nice wood box. I had a little problem with the flashlight. Khoo wrote me a long mail with many tips and really tried hard to help me. I finally sent him back the LF2 and he sent me a new one. He really stands behind his products and I really felt in good hands, the after-sale service is top class. This new unit works really well now.


Package content :

A wood box, spare o-ring (3), sillicone grease (never seen that from any other manufacturer), key ring, diffuser and instuctions.

Body :

This flashlight is really well constructed and feels solid. The black anodizing is perfect, far better than any Fenix. I have been carrying it for almost 1 month and I can't even see a small scratch. The head has a good grip but the body would might need a better grip, especially if used with gloves. All parts can be dissambeld (no glue at all) so it's moder-friendly for a future led upgrade. I tried the flashlight in a bath and left it there for a night and no water at all entered, so it's trully water resistant. Maybe P1 and P2 should have a white dot on the body to help align. Since the switch is controled by a spring-mounted contact ring, the light can momentary goes off if dropped or hited. It has 4 keyring holes and 2 of them are perfect to install a 5mm tritium vial. If you are used to the Fenix L0D, you will have to get used to unscrew instead of screwing to turn it on.


led (beam):

The beam is really nice with his orange peel reflector. I never seen any OP reflector of that size, it gives a perfect flood with the SSC, no artifact or ring at all. The tint is pretty white with a very slight hint of blue, I would describe it as cool white. It is not a thrower, think of it as a short to medium range illumination tool.

PWM:

The LF2 uses pwm to control the brightness and I must admit I have been really surprised with it. This is BY FAR the best PWM rate I ever seen, better than my HDS wich I thought was perfect. Many manufacturers claims their pwm rate has no flickering but this is the first true one I see. (My other experiences with pwm lights/switch were: HDS U60XR, Jetbeam C-LE (1.0 and 1.2), Jeatbeam MKIIX, Photon Freedom, L0D, L0D CE, Hyperion, Nite IZE IQ switch, Elektrolumens IQ switch )

UI:

The tricky part.

If you have problem programming a DVD recorder, need help to install softwares on a computer or confused with an IPOD, forget this flashlight or use it in default mode (wich is still tricky BTW).

Since almost everything has been written about the UI, I will just add my opinion about it. I think it is complicated to understand the programming modes, especially the strobes. But I guess once you set it to your fit your needs, you won't have to change it again. Set it then enjoy it. 

The real main advantage is the ability to set the 2 brightness level, for the rest, will you really need to change the brightness of the S.O.S. mode ?

Overall

I was not sure about this flashlight but I gave it a chance. I was used to carry an L0D CE so I found less "natural" to use the LF2, to master the UI, to loose some throw, to unscrew to turn it on. But now that I'm used to it, I would not switch back to an L0D for 4 main reasons:

1) the finish
2) the ability to have a real low (very low) level
3) the absolutely perfect PWM rate 
4) the perfect flood beam compared to a CREE led based flashlight


The LF2 is now my true EDC :thumbsup:


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## NetKidz (Feb 4, 2008)

It's about one year since the first LF2 Cree verison released. Now, here's the new LiteFlux LF2X.  The UI is the same as LF2, but with new detachable 2-stage switch inside (Looks almost the same with LF2). 

Main difference as following:

Use Cree XR-E Q5
Natural HAIII
3-in-1 tail (pocket clip, threaded hole(name?), quick release cap for landyard/necklace)
Snap on diffuser like LF3/4/5
The big difference is the tail and body grooves. The four long, straight grooves/slots are similar to LF3/4/5 but without flat surface.

I'll go home for the Chinese New Year holidays, and I just took some quick snapshots. Will do a review after one week when I'm back. :nana:













(Included a 80cm chain)

























(Attach to a tripod)





(With snap on diffuser)


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## Kilovolt (Feb 4, 2008)

It looks very nice, looking forward to having more details.


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## kooter (Feb 4, 2008)

That looks very nice. :twothumbs Put me down for one. Any chance of doing a clicky tailcap, like the Lumapower Avenger for this one? Would be the ultimate AAA light in my eyes then.


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## mikes1 (Feb 4, 2008)

Is the LF2 X photoshop ???    :huh2:


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## Thujone (Feb 4, 2008)

Let me know when to fire over PP...


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## gunga (Feb 4, 2008)

Wow LF2X solves quite a few of the issues I had with the original...

Very nice.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 4, 2008)

interesting,when will this new version be available ?


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## mikes1 (Feb 4, 2008)

I repeat Photoshop!!! Look at the box lid in the first and second pictures

Mike


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## gunga (Feb 4, 2008)

Dude, chill out. Netkidz has always been a great reviewer and honest poster. I have comeplete trust in him.

This is not so INSANE or something that it would be a photoshop job. Please just calm down and wait for the new info when it comes.


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## mikes1 (Feb 4, 2008)

I sincerely apologies if I have made any one uncomfortable here but I do stand by my observations

Mike


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## gunga (Feb 4, 2008)

Okay, just so you know, the sticker on the top of the box lid is normal (photo 1) and yes, I see the sticker is not there in photo 2. It is possible the sticker was removed for that one.

Curious, are there other observations in the photos that concern you or is that the only thing that you noticed? I'm a bit puzzled.


----------



## Thujone (Feb 4, 2008)




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## mikes1 (Feb 4, 2008)

gunga 
I am now curious I have apologised but you seem to want the last word

 

Mike


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 4, 2008)

I don't care about the missing sticker,I just want the light inside the box


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## mikes1 (Feb 4, 2008)

gunga

By the way thanks for giveing me my 20th post :thumbsup:


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## gunga (Feb 4, 2008)

Your welcome.




No I saw the apology, I was just curious if you had any other concerns.

Thjone, nice post . BTW, Your avatar is cool!


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## bltkmt (Feb 4, 2008)

This looks interesting enough for me to attempt getting over my LifeFlux UI phobia and try again. Nice work!


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## Thujone (Feb 4, 2008)

gunga said:


> Thujone, nice post . BTW, Your avatar is cool!



Why thanks , the avatar is one I made for my Counter Strike spray.


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## mikes1 (Feb 4, 2008)

OK is it me or dose it look like a composite IE
Avenger pocket clip
Titan tail
Extreme 3 anodising

Maybe just coincidence ?


If it is for real I will defnitely buy one

Mike


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## kooter (Feb 4, 2008)

It does look a lot like an Extreme III. oo::goodjob: I cant stop looking at it, i want one, and i want one NOW.


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## LED Cool (Feb 4, 2008)

it is real! that i can confirmed. 

the sticker "LF2X" was stuck on top of the shrink wrap of the box, so when the shrink wrap was torn off, the sticker does not appear on the wooden lid.

i will start a new sales thread in CPF marketplace " Dealer's section" when i have the LF2X in stock. but i must honestly inform you that it will be at least 2 weeks from now because LiteFlux will be closed for the chinese new year holiday from now until 12th February.

thanks.
khoo


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## kooter (Feb 4, 2008)

Khoo, any idea how much it will be, or any other info you can give us.


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## Bigsy (Feb 4, 2008)

Either way its going to be a lot cheaper than the Extreme III which I was pretty close to getting.....thankfully dodged that bullet..this looks like it could be great.


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## Dan C (Feb 4, 2008)

Bigsy said:


> Either way its going to be a lot cheaper than the Extreme III which I was pretty close to getting.....thankfully dodged that bullet..this looks like it could be great.



Lucky you, I was gut shot by the bullet you dodged. I just took delivery of my Extreme III half an hour ago. It's a gorgeous light, but I think I like the features of this one even better. I certainly would have rather had three of these than my one high-dollar EXIII.....

I will be getting at least one anyway, love the LiteFlux models...

Dan C


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## regulator (Feb 4, 2008)

Oh Yeah I am in for one of those. Dagnabit! And I just purchased a Fenix LOD-CE too (don't even have it yet) - but I do like the AAA lights and I guess I will just have something for comparision.

Couple of things that I like about this version - the Q5 Cree, the new style, and the natural anodizing.


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## NetKidz (Feb 4, 2008)

Sorry for not posting more details since I'm busy on refining the yearly projects and preparing for the meetings. :mecry:

Like LED Cool said, it's true and I think he will get them in stock when the couriers are back from holidays. BTW, if I have that good skills of PhotoShop, I think I'll have another great part-time job earning more to buy more flashlights. 

Yes, the looking is like Extreme III since some parts of Extreme III are made by LiteFlux. But Extreme III is hand picked to make even color. NAT HAIII is hard to control, there'll be color mis-match for LF2X because of more parts needed to be anodized.

I don't have SureFire Titan, but my friend said the mechanism isn't the same. LF2X is "Turn 180 degree to lock and another 180 degree to open". The photos aren't clear and I'll re-take them later.










About detachable clicky tailcap, I think it's not suitable for LF2. Think when you click on, but you still need to twist for other levels or functions.  Actually there's LF5RS (Rebel) planned, but I don't know when it'll be released since LiteFlux is relatively slower on manufacturing new lights. LF5RS will be tail clicky with new UI and momentary switch (ON/OFF programmable).

Thanks.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 4, 2008)

Thanks NetKidz,this will be my first AAA light, looking good for my first though :twothumbs


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## regulator (Feb 4, 2008)

I'm gonna go broke! The new LF-5 sounds like another light I'm going to have to get. It would be great if it also was in natural anodize. I must remember not to browse these threads!

Thanks for the info Netkids. Can't wait for their release.


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## mikes1 (Feb 4, 2008)

Note to self *DO NOT* post silly remarks on forum after lunchtime bender up the pub
Sorry all
Mike


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## Calina (Feb 5, 2008)

I hope they fixed the U.I. Mainly, I hope that the light levels are more like a logarithmic scale than the geometric scale of the LF2. 
I also hope that the same "special" CPF price will still be available to members.


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## kooter (Feb 5, 2008)

mikes1 said:


> Note to self *DO NOT* post silly remarks on forum after lunchtime bender up the pub
> Sorry all
> Mike


 
Mike, im sure they will forgive ya. :thumbsup:


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## mikes1 (Feb 5, 2008)

Thanks Kooter 

Mike


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 5, 2008)

mikes1 said:


> Note to self *DO NOT* post silly remarks on forum after lunchtime bender up the pub
> Sorry all
> Mike


*NOTE TO MIKE1*,don't beat yourself up about it,but remember to invite us all next time you go to the pub :devil:


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## Thujone (Feb 5, 2008)

Calina said:


> I also hope that the same "special" CPF price will still be available to members.



I think it is pretty safe to assume the price will go up a bit with the new design and HAIII...


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## 83Venture (Feb 5, 2008)

Looks good. I have the first run LF2 that have a screw on diffuser and one of the metal spare battery/diffuser holders. Will the screw on diffuser work on this new light? The spare holder is just to handy to give up.


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## Bigsy (Feb 5, 2008)

Found some more info and pics here: http://my3c.com/D5/viewthread.php?tid=7597&extra=&page=2

output:
LF2X
P1-> 176 Lux 
P2-> 698 Lux
100%-> 1401 Lux

L0D Q4
Low-> 195 Lux
Mid-> 525 Lux
High-> 1382 Lux

Nice to see it outshines a L0D (well on a par at the very least), shame the low isn't lower (I assume you can;t programme it lower?)


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## Thujone (Feb 5, 2008)

Bigsy said:


> Found some more info and pics here: http://my3c.com/D5/viewthread.php?tid=7597&extra=&page=2
> 
> output:
> LF2X
> ...



The liteflux line is very configurable. That is going to be default P1. You can make it a fraction as bright.


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## tpchan (Feb 5, 2008)

Thujone said:


> I think it is pretty safe to assume the price will go up a bit with the new design and HAIII...


LiteFlux LF2's have always had HAIII finishes, and so does the rest of the line of LiteFlux lights -- LF3, LF4, LF5. Even the LF1 v2.0 is HAIII. So really the price increase should only be from the newer emitter and the extra tailcap options.


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## 2xTrinity (Feb 5, 2008)

Bigsy said:


> Found some more info and pics here: http://my3c.com/D5/viewthread.php?tid=7597&extra=&page=2
> 
> output:
> LF2X
> ...


I believe the circuit is reducible to 0.2%, or 3 lux.



> I hope they fixed the U.I. Mainly, I hope that the light levels are more like a logarithmic scale than the geometric scale of the LF2.
> I also hope that the same "special" CPF price will still be available to members.


I agree. I believe the way that variable brightness works is that there are probably 9 bits in memory used to store the brightness (1/512 or roughly 0.2% all the way up to 512/512). I agree the programming would be much nicer if the brightness "sweep" was logarithmic rather than linear -- because our eyes have a logarithmic response to changes in brightness. It takes way too long to go through the "high" levels, and there's not enough time to stop on a "low" levels.


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## EntropyQ3 (Feb 6, 2008)

Thujone said:


> I think it is pretty safe to assume the price will go up a bit with the new design and HAIII...


The LF2 is already HAIII.
And they have dropped the price on the LF2, so lets not jump to conclusions.

Furthermore, it's doubtful if they can charge more than the LOD-Q4 which goes for $40-$50 including worldwide shipping. I think you can safely assume that LiteFlux want to sell in reasonable volumes.

Time will tell.

Edit: as far as i could understand the original post the output above was generated using LiIon 10440. In that case, the LF2x producing the same output means that it overdrives the battery the same way. Ouch. And since it is a PWM light, the (lower) efficiency of high current drive will be inherited by all lower output modes.
FFS, if they have regulation for LiIon, they should USE IT. Drop 10440 current draw to 1C, and that will yield a higher efficiency light at all levels.


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## gravityz (Feb 6, 2008)

and what about efficiency

if we compare the Q2 to the Q5 the Q2 has a longer runtime with slightly less output
Q5 has more output but with less runtime than the Q2
at least this is the case with the L1DCE Q2 and Q5 i have.

also if the Q5 produces more output at a higher vF this means more heat 
since the LF2 SSC allready is getting hot at 100% what will the Q5 do.

with the bigger AA lights it make sense to put in a Q5 because the battery is bigger and so is the cooling area.

it might be that the advantage of the Q5 is only more throw but batteryruntime is another thing

i am a huge cree fan so if anybody can explain what advantages the Q5 brings instead of the SSC please tell me.


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## EntropyQ3 (Feb 6, 2008)

gravityz said:


> i am a huge cree fan so if anybody can explain what advantages the Q5 brings instead of the SSC please tell me.


There have been both a Cree P4 and an SSC version on the LF2. For various reasons (beam tint, beam pattern) the SSC version emerged as the preferred platform. But you can find the thread here where the original Cree version was tested. It seemed pretty nice.

Using the Q5 brings one potential benefit - it will in all likelyhood offer somewhat better efficiency than the SSC P4. LEDs are not binned according to efficiency however, but output at a given current, so variations in Vf can change matters. AAA lights are pretty much completely dependent on efficiency, so the binning system doesn't really describe the working conditions for AAA lights well. 
That said, by everything I've seen, the Q5 is likely to yield more light per watt than the SSC P4 U-bin.

What is more relative is that the beam shape will be different. The SSC beam has been well liked due to its wide floody pattern without artifacts. It has very small reflector area. The Cree is likely to throw a narrower beam, it will likely use a slightly larger reflector, and throw a significantly brighter hot spot. Whether you think this is good or bad, well.... it's relative. For these lights I find floodier beams vastly preferable, so that's one thing I'll keep a close look at before ordering. That said - AAA lights all have pretty floody beams.

What we don't know is if the driver electronics have changed significantly. I expressed some concern that they may have set the base drive current to the emitter too high. This would cause efficiency problems at all levels since PWM lights use the same drive current at all light levels, output is regulated by pulse duration. Since a Cree is roughly a factor two less efficient at, say 700mA than at 100mA, this is quite significant. Look at current vs. efficiency curves to see the magnitude of the effect. Also, one of the drawbacks of the LF2 have been short runtimes on high for the SSC version. (Never mind the problems of maintaining output due to the tiny lights overheating with high drive currents).

A MkII of anything is typically overhauled and generally improved, but in this case there are some concerns, as you can see. It's not a given that you will find all changes to your liking.


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## 2xTrinity (Feb 6, 2008)

EntropyQ3 said:


> There have been both a Cree P4 and an SSC version on the LF2. For various reasons (beam tint, beam pattern) the SSC version emerged as the preferred platform. But you can find the thread here where the original Cree version was tested. It seemed pretty nice.
> 
> Using the Q5 brings one potential benefit - it will in all likelyhood offer somewhat better efficiency than the SSC P4. LEDs are not binned according to efficiency however, but output at a given current, so variations in Vf can change matters. AAA lights are pretty much completely dependent on efficiency, so the binning system doesn't really describe the working conditions for AAA lights well.
> That said, by everything I've seen, the Q5 is likely to yield more light per watt than the SSC P4 U-bin.
> ...


This difference between 100mA efficiency and 700mA efficiency is not as extreme for the newer emitters (Q5 etc.) than it was for older P4 emitters. The newer ones tend to be slightly better at low current, and hold up a lot better at high current, but the point is still valid. Especailly when running on AAA with boost, emitter efficiency isn't the only issue, battery internal resistance losses due to high current drawn from the battery is probably actually more significant (unless running 10440). I would certainly be satisfied with a slightly lower peak drive current. 



> Also, one of the drawbacks of the LF2 have been short runtimes on high for the SSC version. (Never mind the problems of maintaining output due to the tiny lights overheating with high drive currents).


There are a few things I noticed with the heat. One of them is that the LF2s heat up a lot faster than the L0D at the same amount of input power -- that suggests that the LF2 has lower heat capacity (less material to "soak up" the heat in the head). This is understandable as the LF2 has a lot more complicated circuitry and switching mechanisms crammed into the head, but is another strong argument for reducing peak drive current.

Another possible change that would be even better is what the MagLED drop-in bulb did, where it reduces the output current as the light heats up excessively. This was done using a NTC thermistor (negative temp. coefficient -- resistance drops as temperature goes up) as the feedback resistor for the amplifier circuit. Consider that with 10440 if switched on inadvertently inside a jacket pocket, the light can get EXTREMELY hot without such a mechanism.



> There have been both a Cree P4 and an SSC version on the LF2. For various reasons (beam tint, beam pattern) the SSC version emerged as the preferred platform. But you can find the thread here where the original Cree version was tested. It seemed pretty nice.


I've compared a SSC LF2, Cree LF2, and a Cree LF2 modded to a Q5 (my current EDC). SSC had more lumens than the Cree LF2, but the Cree has IMO a more useful beam pattern, and better throw. The Q5 has noticeably more output than either of the others.


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## EntropyQ3 (Feb 6, 2008)

Trinity, is there a way to resurrect the pics in the LF2 vs. LOD-CE thread you link to?


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## kooter (Feb 6, 2008)

Waiting impatiently for the LF2X. :naughty:


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## cave dave (Feb 6, 2008)

2xTrinity said:


> .. One of them is that the LF2s heat up a lot faster than the L0D at the same amount of input power -- that suggests that the LF2 has lower heat capacity (less material to "soak up" the heat in the head). ...



I wouldn't jump to that conclusion. The LF2 has a much better thermal path from the LED to the body. The LF2 LED is mounted to an aluminum heatsink integrated with the body. The LOP emitter is on a circuit board glued into the body. While the LF2 Body may feel hotter on the outside the LED may actually be running cooler.


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## daywalker (Feb 7, 2008)

Too bad on the new LF2X is, that they again put only a dot on the head and no mark on the body for the positions.


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## phrozen (Feb 7, 2008)

daywalker said:


> Too bad on the new LF2X is, that they again put only a dot on the head and no mark on the body for the positions.


 
nope, its dot mark on body as below pic











1 dot -> P1 Position
2 dots -> P2 Position

add more pics


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 7, 2008)

Phrozen,I take it the white dot on the head is indented,like the dots on the body :thinking:


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## alex in germany (Feb 7, 2008)

Hi,

the Clip is a great option. 

Can i change the Bodys between the Extreme III and the LF2X ?


Alex


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## daywalker (Feb 7, 2008)

phrozen said:


> nope, its dot mark on body as below pic
> 1 dot -> P1 Position
> 2 dots -> P2 Position
> add more pics




Thank you for those pics. Now i can't wait to get it.:twothumbs


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## EntropyQ3 (Feb 7, 2008)

Textured reflector - that would be my choice as well for the Cree. Nice. 
Just finished my runtime/output plots for all battery types and levels for the Lumapower Avenger, the LOD-Q4 and the KD-AAA SSC-U. I can't help feeling that it would be fun to compare, even though I need another AAA light roughly as much as I need a third nostril.


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## regulator (Feb 7, 2008)

Nice pictures Phozen. I will definately be ordering one. BTW - I just received an olive LOD-CE Q4 today and like it. 

It would be interesting to see the Liteflux output adjusted to the LOD-CE Q4 medium setting and compare runtimes between the two.


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## kooter (Feb 8, 2008)

Anyone else got pics of the LF2X, or any other info, price, output and the like?


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 8, 2008)

Somehow I've managed to hold off for a long time now from buying a new AAA light. Many times I've almost pulled the trigger on the LF2 or an L0Dce, but decided to wait for upgrades. With this redesign of the LF2 I'm once more teetering on the edge. One thing continues to make me pause. It's been my impression that the LF2 only matches or exceeds the Fenix when using a 10440 battery. I intend to only use NiMH or alkalines in whichever light I buy. And, I will probably use it mainly at a low to medium level. Could someone familiar with the performance of both lights recommend which one might be the better choice? Thanks.

Geoff


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 8, 2008)

kooter said:


> Anyone else got pics of the LF2X, or any other info, price, output and the like?


Kooter!:nana:hello! how the hell are you man! to answer your questions? I do not,but I can tell you this if it is around 25.5 nuggets I'm in


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## kooter (Feb 8, 2008)

Hi Titan, im fine mate, how about you? 

I would stretch to 26 nuggets at least  i love the look of it, and a Q5 to boot.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 8, 2008)

kooter said:


> Hi Titan, im fine mate, how about you?
> 
> I would stretch to 26 nuggets at least  i love the look of it, and a Q5 to boot.


26 nugs :naughty: i tooo! like the look,but really! I want a new neck-tie this seems to fit the bill.:thumbsup:


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## kooter (Feb 8, 2008)

I was thinking more like an ankle chain, do you think it would suit me?


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 8, 2008)

:shakehead


kooter said:


> I was thinking more like an ankle chain, do you think it would suit me?


  ?


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## Curious_character (Feb 9, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> Somehow I've managed to hold off for a long time now from buying a new AAA light. Many times I've almost pulled the trigger on the LF2 or an L0Dce, but decided to wait for upgrades. With this redesign of the LF2 I'm once more teetering on the edge. One thing continues to make me pause. It's been my impression that the LF2 only matches or exceeds the Fenix when using a 10440 battery. I intend to only use NiMH or alkalines in whichever light I buy. And, I will probably use it mainly at a low to medium level. Could someone familiar with the performance of both lights recommend which one might be the better choice? Thanks.
> 
> Geoff


I'm a long time Fenix fan, and have a couple of L0D CE lights which I really like. But the LF2 has become my EDC for several reasons. One is that, although I'm not bothered by the L0D CE PWM flicker as much as some people, I do notice it, particularly after using the LF2 for a while. The LF2 doesn't flicker, as the L0D CE does on medium and low. Another thing I really like about the LF2 is that I can set the two levels of the primary mode to be the ones I use most often. So the light always comes on at the most used level, and the next-most is very quickly and easily accessed. The adjustable mode acts as a third level which is pretty easily accessed. I usually keep it at max, but when I'm away from home and want a light for the bedside table, I set it to a very low level and so it's the one the light turns on to. Finally, the LF2 is off when the head is screwed all the way down. With the L0D CE I always feel I have to test to make sure it's unscrewed far enough that it won't turn on accidentally by pushing the head.

But both are very nice lights. I keep one in my pocket, and use it often.

I use NiMH in both my LF2 and L0D CEs, almost exclusively.

c_c


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## NetKidz (Feb 11, 2008)

Just back from holidays.  Didn't take more photos yet, the quility is poor when take them at home and need time to re-take.

@Calina
I think the UI couldn't be changed since the programming space is almost used out for LF2. As I know, the new light will be use log scale to adjust the light level.

@83Venture
I think you mean daywalker's cap? It's a pity, the new snap on diffuser couldn't fit the cap (too large). The LF2X could use old diffuser but the LF2X bezel couldn't screw in daywalker's cap. :green:


-----
Just done the runtime for Alkaline, NiMH and Li-ion. More detail will be posted to review sub-forum after I take more photos.


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## EntropyQ3 (Feb 11, 2008)

Thank you for the runtime graphs!
Not quite the results I had hoped for as it seems to prioritize max output over runtimes, but it is great that you make the effort. The battery sodomization squad will be happy though.


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## Tubor (Feb 11, 2008)

Well I'm very happy with my LF2. I don't think a cree will be as god damn gorgeous as the SSC P4 in this little light. Some may prefer throw but I doubt you would if you saw them side by side. I am really interested in the LF5X though.


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## Thujone (Feb 11, 2008)

Tubor said:


> Some may prefer throw but I doubt you would if you saw them side by side.



I wonder how much the beam is cleaned up by the OP reflector..


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## Kilovolt (Feb 11, 2008)

Tubor said:


> Well I'm very happy with my LF2. I don't think a cree will be as god damn gorgeous as the SSC P4 in this little light.


 
I agree with you 100%

I am not sure I am prepared to see dark rings appear in the beam of LF2.....


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## gravityz (Feb 11, 2008)

on 100% it is not regulated at all

i have seen graphics of both the old cree and ssc p4 but those curves were flat on 100%.

does this mean that the old ssc p4 was regulated on 100% while the new Q5 is not?


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## 83Venture (Feb 11, 2008)

Thanks for the answer on Daywalkers cap, sorry that they are not compatible. :sigh:


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## kooter (Feb 11, 2008)

Well we need to see beamshots before judgement is made. 

Netkidz, how much longer we gotta wait for this one?


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## Thujone (Feb 11, 2008)

impatience is setting in. How dare you tease us!!! Need price and beam shots, and permission to order!


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## EntropyQ3 (Feb 11, 2008)

A question - is the adjustment of levels still linear rather than logarithmic? Or in other words - does it still feel very quick on the dark end and slow on the bright?


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## 83Venture (Feb 12, 2008)

EntropyQ3 - See Post number 307 response to Calina.


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## EntropyQ3 (Feb 12, 2008)

83Venture said:


> EntropyQ3 - See Post number 307 response to Calina.


Ah, my bad, sorry.
Chalk it up to general excitement, I can feel my credit card quivering in fear.


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## kooter (Feb 12, 2008)

LED Cool said:


> it is real! that i can confirmed.
> 
> the sticker "LF2X" was stuck on top of the shrink wrap of the box, so when the shrink wrap was torn off, the sticker does not appear on the wooden lid.
> 
> ...


 
Khoo, its the 12th.


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## gravityz (Feb 12, 2008)

am i the only one who is noticing that at 100% the light is NOT REGULATED.





NetKidz said:


> Just back from holidays.  Didn't take more photos yet, the quility is poor when take them at home and need time to re-take.
> 
> @Calina
> I think the UI couldn't be changed since the programming space is almost used out for LF2. As I know, the new light will be use log scale to adjust the light level.
> ...


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## 2xTrinity (Feb 12, 2008)

gravityz said:


> am i the only one who is noticing that at 100% the light is NOT REGULATED.


I'd be interested in seeing the 100% runtime on 10440 (which for some reason was not tested on the graph). If heat buildup is the problem, I'd recommend the reviewer test the runtime in intervals.

If the 100% _IS_ regulated for 10440, that would suggest the reason for the problem is the higher Vf of the Q5 LEDs causing the low-voltage AAA cells to have to "work too hard" and therefore not be able to maintain regulation. Consider that 50% 10440 should be roughly as bright as 100% on NiMH. You will see the difference in performance achieved by using a more optimal voltage (45mins regulated on 10440, vs 35mins of dimming output to 50% on NiMH), since both 10440s and AAAs have the same amonut of energy, just at different voltages.

I use mine (actually a regular LF2 modded to a Q5) with 10440, anyway, so the higher Vf of the Cree LEDs is not a problem as the light doesn't need to boost at all.


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## gunga (Feb 12, 2008)

Here's a link to the old review of the previous model.

I see what you mean about the regulation at 100%.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2024408

Perhaps the extreme 3 has the same behaviour?

Just a guess tho.


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## 2xTrinity (Feb 12, 2008)

gunga said:


> Here's a link to the old review of the previous model.
> 
> I see what you mean about the regulation at 100%.


Yeah, those graphs actually label the brightness on the axes. 50% on 10440 is the same brightness as 100% on alkaline. 10440 is clearly more efficient.


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## NetKidz (Feb 13, 2008)

Sorry, I didn't post the detail about the graph. I didn't test them using lightbox, thus the angle or distance will make difference for each run. I re-scale them to 0-100% (Y axis) based on the initial output. I only test the default settings, P1(15%), P2(50%) and 100% output. 

The 100% output should also be regulated. I think the small AAA battery couldn't provide enough power to stay regulated. LF2X circuit was modified to fit the high Vf of Q5 but I don't know how much current needed at 100%. I didn't do the runtime at 100% output for 10440, it's because the current will surely be over 2C. It's not good for li-ion to continuously drain over 2C. 

Here's the 10440 runtime for 100% output. I use two 10440, one is Soshine 360mAh button top, and another is LC 10440 320mAh flat top. Both bought from AW. (One note here, the button top 10440 couldn't be used with current batch LF2). The reading was taken at 10sec interval.







(The sharp drop near the end of LC 10440 is the low voltage warning)

Both start from 4.16v and cut by the over-discharging protection. The batteries were hot when take out. After rest for awhile, the open circuit voltage back to 3.85v for Soshine and 3.9v for LC 10440.


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## jackcselab (Feb 13, 2008)

gunga said:


> Here's a link to the old review of the previous model.
> 
> I see what you mean about the regulation at 100%.
> 
> ...



Extreme 3 use rebel 100 led, rebel 100 has lower Vf than CREE Q4/Q5.
I think 100% NimH regulation of Extreme 3 should be better than LF2X.

LF5RS is Liteflux's next product. It will use rebel 100 LED. I guess that LF2X may also have a rebel 100 version in future. Let's wait and see. :naughty:


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## EntropyQ3 (Feb 13, 2008)

Thanks again NetKidz for your efforts!
6-7 minute runtimes imply some interesting levels of powerdraw from the cell. Has to be a record of some kind. Remarkable that it seems to maintain regulation at that level. Comparing runtimes, it seems the voltage depression of the cell at full blast is quite brutal.

It seems clear that LiteFlux has gone for maximum output from the LED at the expense of runtimes (and possibly cell health, certainly long term). Personally, I would *really* prefer if they toned it down a bit. It would be better for cell longevity and it would produce better running times vs. output across all PWM levels. There have been no promises of either running times or output, so they wouldn't suffer Tiablo A1 type backlash. Keeping max current draw from the cell at 1C would be where I would prefer it.

(Preparing to be flamed by the Chasers of the Last Lumen.)


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## jackcselab (Feb 13, 2008)

I don't think this is a problem. If your are worry about driving battery too hard at 100%, lower the output as you wish. LF2's functionality allow user to fine tune output to any lower level.


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## EntropyQ3 (Feb 13, 2008)

jackcselab said:


> I don't think this is a problem. If your are worry about driving battery too hard at 100%, lower the output as you wish. LF2's functionality allow user to fine tune output to any lower level.



Via PWM.


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## Curious_character (Feb 13, 2008)

Am I reading these graphs right -- with a 10440 you get 47 minutes at 50% and 7 minutes at 100%?

c_c


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## 2xTrinity (Feb 13, 2008)

Curious_character said:


> Am I reading these graphs right -- with a 10440 you get 47 minutes at 50% and 7 minutes at 100%?
> 
> c_c


This is because of the way that the low voltage protection works -- it checks to see when the voltage of the cell _under load_ is under 3.0V. At 100% current draw, the voltage sags so much due to internal resistance losses, that it falls to 3.0V almost immediately, even though not all of the cells' capacity has actually been used up. If you were to run the cell at 100% for 7 minutes, then switch to a lower output level, you'd still have a lot of runtime left before the voltage protection trips again at the lower level. 

Considering that the 50% draw runtime is 45 minutes, I'm guessing that current draw at 100% is around 750mA, maybe less. That's because half of that is about 375mA, and nominal capacity is 320mAh -- which should work out to somewhat under 1hour runtime. This is considerably less abusive to the cell than the L0D-CE, which draws over 1.1A (measured).



> I don't think this is a problem. If your are worry about driving battery too hard at 100%, lower the output as you wish. LF2's functionality allow user to fine tune output to any lower level.


The way output is reduced is via PWM -- that is, it switches the circuit off and on rapidly. That means actually reducing the 100% current-level by half, then running the light at 100% is actually considerably more efficient than running the stock light at 50%.

Considering that on NiMH, the 100% setting isn't even regulated, and on LiIon it trips the circuitry so early, reducing the max output would be a good change IMO. The ideal would be to actually have constant current at all levels, but I doubt there's enough room inside the LF2 to fit the necessary filtering components to do that.


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## Thujone (Feb 15, 2008)

Impatiently awaiting permission to order...


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## kooter (Feb 15, 2008)

Me too, hurry up. :nana:


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## Kevo (Feb 15, 2008)

Looks like the LF2X is up on the LiteFlux website for $60. Anyone have any beam shots yet?


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## LED Cool (Feb 16, 2008)

LF2X sales thread is up in the CPFM dealers section.

thanks.
khoo


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## NetKidz (Feb 16, 2008)

Tried to post in the review forums for the full review. But there seems some problems with pictures every time I try to link. 

Here's the beam pattern. (NiMH, default P2 50% output):




(F2.8, 1/4s ISO100)





(F2.8, 1/6s ISO100)





(F2.8, 1/8s ISO100)

The beam pattern of LF2X is funny. The light OP reflector has smoothed out the transit from hotspot to side spill, but the outer side spill is brighter and make the side spill like a big dark riing for short distance.


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## Kilovolt (Feb 16, 2008)

LED Cool said:


> LF2X sales thread is up in the CPFM dealers section.
> 
> thanks.
> khoo


 
Khoo, you've done your part......


......and I've done mine...


:wave:


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## gravityz (Feb 16, 2008)

i think that the black ring is caused by the metal ring surrounding the cree led.

this probably the case with every cree led light.
most of the time it looks worse on a picture than it actually is.


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## matrixshaman (Feb 16, 2008)

NetKidz said:


> The beam pattern of LF2X is funny. The light OP reflector has smoothed out the transit from hotspot to side spill, but the outer side spill is brighter and make the side spill like a big dark riing for short distance.



Sounds like the typical Creellusion


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## greentee (Feb 16, 2008)

Hi, I am new to the whole flashlight topic (but have read a lot the last days), and, looking for an AAA light, decided to buy the lf2x. I have one last question though, wondering if I should still go with the SCC P4: Are there any data on the Q5 in the lf2x with regard to the angle at which a) the "center bright spot" and b) the "still very bright spot surrounding the center bright spot" are projected? (In other words, is the lf2x actually not only a sub-optimal, but actuallz a _bad_ joice for the proximal area? Is it annoying to walk in the dark with it because, at a normal pace, the beam is too narrow? Is it mentionably annoying when doing close-range stuff, like e.g. fumbling around with the engine of your car at night? (Sorry for my bad English.) Probably stupid questions. You get what I mean. 

Thanks! 

matthias


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 16, 2008)

greentee welcome to CPF,to answer your question the LF2X has just been released,so real life experiences are thin on the ground give it time.There will be lots of reviews soon no doubt.
Also read the post above yours it touches on your question a little 

One thing I can say with some cree lights even with a op reflector they can be ringy.

But my advice to you would be to keep  and wait for the reviews.


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## 2xTrinity (Feb 16, 2008)

> (In other words, is the lf2x actually not only a sub-optimal, but actuallz a _bad_ joice for the proximal area? Is it annoying to walk in the dark with it because, at a normal pace, the beam is too narrow? Is it mentionably annoying when doing close-range stuff, like e.g. fumbling around with the engine of your car at night? (Sorry for my bad English.) Probably stupid questions. You get what I mean.


I personally have used both the SSC and Cree LF2s (not the LF2x, but I assume the reflectors are the same), as well as the Fenix L0D-CE. I greatly prefer the LF2 Cree out of all of them. IMO the SSC's beam pattern is actualyl somewhat too wide, its reflector is very shallow, meaning that nearly all the lumen output is spill. This makes it hard to keep from hitting other people in the eyes with the spill. If you want omnidirectional illumination, you can use the diffuser -- on the old LF2, this requiers replacing the reflector with a screw-on cap. In the case of the LF2x, the diffuser can be snapped on. Much better.

Compared to the Fenix, the LF2 cree has less throw because of the textured reflector. This is a good thing, as a tighther hotspot is actually a negative working up close. The spill in the case of the Cree is narrower, but brighter, which means there isn't as much of a difference in intensity between the hotspot and spill, and the two tend to "blend" into each other. 

The best aspect of the LF2 though, Cree or SSC, is the fact that you can define the low ouptut to be whatever you want, that really is the biggest flaw with the L0D-CE IMO, all the modes are too bright to work up close with.


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## greentee (Feb 17, 2008)

Thank you all a lot!!! :twothumbs


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## broadwayblue (Feb 28, 2008)

I've had my LF2 for a couple months now and have been impressed...although I still don't know how to use all the features (need to read up on how to adjust the brightness in the first two modes.) I'd like to start carrying it with me to work but haven't decided how. I carry my cell phone in one pocket and my keys in the other...will the LF2 get badly scratched if it's rubbing against my keys? Do most of you just attach it to your keychain...and if so, do you use a special lanyard or connector? Thanks.


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## Curious_character (Feb 28, 2008)

broadwayblue said:


> I've had my LF2 for a couple months now and have been impressed...although I still don't know how to use all the features (need to read up on how to adjust the brightness in the first two modes.) I'd like to start carrying it with me to work but haven't decided how. I carry my cell phone in one pocket and my keys in the other...will the LF2 get badly scratched if it's rubbing against my keys? Do most of you just attach it to your keychain...and if so, do you use a special lanyard or connector? Thanks.


I carry mine loose in my pocket with my pocket knife and fingernail clippers -- both pretty hard steel. No sign of wear yet, but I expect tools I use to show some eventually. If my main concern was keeping it pretty, I'd put it in a glass box for people to admire, and not risk actually using it.

c_c


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## 2xTrinity (Feb 28, 2008)

> will the LF2 get badly scratched if it's rubbing against my keys? Do most of you just attach it to your keychain...and if so, do you use a special lanyard or connector? Thanks.


I have mine on my keychain, and the light is fairly scratch resistant as it is hard-anodized, but dropping/impact can still cause the anodizing to chip as the aluminum underneath is softer. Mine has chipped in a few places around the bezel due to dropping the keychain from waist-high onto asphalt numerous times... Also, torque/pressure on keyring can cause Anodizing to chip from the lanyard ring. LF2x should be much improved for kechain carry though as it has a swappable tailcaps, including clamp, quick-release, and another to attach the light to standard tripods.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

Got my LF2X today it took only 5 days to get here thanks Khoo.

My first impressions well all I can say it's perfect in everyway,and more than I expected great job liteflux it sure is a winner.
well without futher to do here are some pics,well pics speak for themself I belive.

first a fun comparison with a mag solitare LF2X on low.






next the complete package






someone tell me what this little silver ring is for?






LF2X on a mini tripod.






candle mode.






LF2X with quick release cap.






LF2X with pocket clip.






Hope the pics come out ok and not to blurry ,and yes you know you have to get a LF2X it is awesome guys.
Thanks to Khoo,liteflux and netkidz and everone else who got my attention to this light.

enjoy


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

my question has been answered thanks Khoo:twothumbs

@Nake thanks for checking in :thumbsup:


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## Nake (Feb 28, 2008)

Hey, I checked in. Nice pics, don't know what that ring is for.


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## LED Cool (Feb 28, 2008)

hi titan1833,

the LF2X's tail tripod hole is threaded shallow in order to keep the overall length short. most tripods have a longer screw thread, therefore part of the tripod's screw thread will be visible/exposed when the LF2X is attached.

that ring can be used to hide part of the tripod's exposed screw thread.

regards,
khoo


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 29, 2008)

LED Cool said:


> hi titan1833,
> 
> the LF2X's tail tripod hole is threaded shallow in order to keep the overall length short. most tripods have a longer screw thread, therefore part of the tripod's screw thread will be visible/exposed when the LF2X is attached.
> 
> ...


Thanks Khoo,Ah makes sense now and no biggy if I loose it :devil:


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## basill (Mar 10, 2008)

Got my lf2x, it is a quality bit of kit I`m very happy with the finish, accessories and Khoo`s super fast worldwide delivery. I wonder though why 100% brightness is not one of the default levels. I could have missed out on some lumens if I had not persevered. If I was the designer I would have made full power available as a default.

I spent the traditional couple of hours fiddling and studying the instructions. Now I have very low and very bright set for P1 and P2. I`ve yet to fiddle with the strobes!

B


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## Thujone (Mar 10, 2008)

basill said:


> I wonder though why 100% brightness is not one of the default levels.
> B



Because the percieved brightness of 100% is barely brighter than 50%, while the battery life decreases by way more than half.


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## Curious_character (Mar 12, 2008)

I get the best of both worlds by leaving the variable brightness mode set to 100%, and the two settings in the normal mode to something less. That way, the 100% level is always easily available. When I'm away from home and need a dim light for seeing my way around at night, I set the variable level to a very low one. So I don't have to mess with my main two settings.

c_c


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## xoltri (Mar 19, 2008)

I have a suggestion for a possible improvement. I ran my LF2 in the following configuration: P1: 2% P2: 50% User adjustable: 100%. I always ran it with 10440's. 

I ran into a situation a couple times where I was in 100% mode and the battery went dead, after giving me the warning flashes. However, the battery probably would still have capacity left if it were switched to a lower setting, but this was impossible to do since the light would turn off too fast.

Ideally it would be nice if the light would switch to the lowest light output level once the low voltage detection kicks in, to at least allow some light output until the battery is actually dead (not just sagging from high current draw).

Thoughts?


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## Tubor (Mar 19, 2008)

I agree this is something that would improve the whole LF range as I've had problems with doing ANYTHING once the low-voltage warning starts kicking in.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 10, 2008)

Kilovolt said:


> Sorry Gravityz but I simply hate strobe and SOS so I am not in a position to help you. :shrug:
> 
> All my Fenix lights gather dust on a shelf because they do have both strobe and SOS that can not be easily avoided. :shakehead


Want to get rid of some Fenix lights?

My EDC is my L0D Q4 and I think that anyone having trouble avoiding the strobe/sos modes is getting carried away twisting too fast. Having only carried mine for a couple weeks I've had no problem and don't believe anyone else should once they get used to them.

Give your lights another chance and you may learn to love them. :thumbsup:


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## Kilovolt (Apr 10, 2008)

My friend, I am truly sorry but after having used for a while a light where I decide which level comes first and which second and where strobe and SOS are so well hidden I am not even able to switch them on, I simply can't appreciate Fenix L0D's any longer. And I have three of them. 

So I now EDC an LF2 SSC for flood and an LF2X CREE for throw and that's it.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 10, 2008)

Kilovolt said:


> My friend, I am truly sorry but after having used for a while a light where I decide which level comes first and which second and where strobe and SOS are so well hidden I am not even able to switch them on, I simply can't appreciate Fenix L0D's any longer. And I have three of them.
> 
> So I now EDC an LF2 SSC for flood and an LF2X CREE for throw and that's it.


Want to sell some L0D's? 

If you're using 2 different models of LF2 for throw/flood, which would you take if only carrying one?

I really want to get one of these too!


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## Kilovolt (Apr 11, 2008)

kaichu dento said:


> If you're using 2 different models of LF2 for throw/flood, which would you take if only carrying one?


 
Although the new LF2X puts out a really impressive amount of light, my choice would be LF2 SSC because of its smoother and wider beam. 

Try one, you will be happy. :thumbsup:


BTW I have a total of 10 Fenix lights so no one can say I am a Fenix basher..... :naughty:


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## hank (Apr 19, 2008)

> Ideally it would be nice if the light would switch to the lowest light output level once 
> the low voltage detection kicks in, to at least allow some light output 

Definite yes. And remember so it doesn't go back to 100 percent til the next battery change.

Simple matter of programming? (Yes, I realize there is no such thing!)


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## 2xTrinity (Apr 23, 2008)

I recently posted a comparison thread between all variants of the LF2 (SSC, XR-E, and LF2x), which includes current measurements: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/195940

Given 3.7V input, 100% duty cycle:

 LF2: 520mA
 LF2X: 840mA
Both lights will draw progressively more as the voltage drops, in order to maintain regulation. 840mA @3.7 is WAY too much current, and that actually reaches 1A just before low voltage protection kicks in, after a grand total of 7 minutes runtime. The original LF2 manages to stay under the "safe" 2C discharge (about 640mA) its runtime, and last more like 20 minutes.

The highest usable level on the LF2x both in terms of safety, and reasonable runtimes is therefore around 70%, or the same as the old LF2. Since the light is PWM controlled, the higher current draw of the LF2x hurts efficiency at ALL levels, so it should be changed back.

In future versions of the LF2x, I believe the following changes should be made, in order of priority:

Reduce current to 650mA draw @3V input MAX
Make the quick release secure and/or add a hole for a split ring
Change the programming/variable output modes to use a log sweep for brightness instead of a linear sweep


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## victor01 (Apr 27, 2008)

After several months of owning and using LF2 XRE on a daily basis. I found one short coming in this light, it is simply too easy to turn on. It would turn on at the very instant the head register the slightest twist. When placed in a pant pocket, a slightest knock would turn it on draining the battery for a whole day.
Do other people's light has this issue? And how do you prevent them.
I'm impressed with this light (even getting the new LF2X often flashes into my mind). But being plague with this problem is a bummer. Thanks.


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## bruner (Apr 27, 2008)

I can only think that you must have a defective unit.

I've been carrying my LF2 on my keychain for months now and have never encountered a problem like this.

I did have a problem with mine at first (not related to your problem), but it was resolved very fast by the manufacurer.

This is the best EDC light I have ever had. If you contact them, I'm sure they will help you out.

Dan


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## hank (Apr 27, 2008)

I've noticed rotary-head lights kept -- by themselves, not along with a keychain -- in pockets turn on quite a few times, several different kinds, and switched to clipping them to belt loops to avoid this. I think when there's nothing but the flashlight in a pocket, just moving around you can get the fabric stretched tight across the flashlight repeatedly, eventually enough to 'ratchet' the head. And the further the head's been loosened, the easier it is to rotate because the threads aren't snug on most of these when partly unscrewed.


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## 2xTrinity (Apr 27, 2008)

hank said:


> I've noticed rotary-head lights kept -- by themselves, not along with a keychain -- in pockets turn on quite a few times, several different kinds, and switched to clipping them to belt loops to avoid this. I think when there's nothing but the flashlight in a pocket, just moving around you can get the fabric stretched tight across the flashlight repeatedly, eventually enough to 'ratchet' the head. And the further the head's been loosened, the easier it is to rotate because the threads aren't snug on most of these when partly unscrewed.


Interesting. However ,I will say that of all the keychain lights I've had, the LF2 (all varieties) has had by far the LEAST problem with coming on in my pocket, because of the fact that the light is OFF when completely tightened, while that is the "on" condition for most other lights. This means that pressure on the head can't cause it to be "pressed on". 


I believe it has happened to be once though but liekly because I actually keep my keys in the same pocket as other things, liek change, papers etc. and liekly inadvertently untightened the head trying to reach for something else. Even then, my P1 is only 0.2% output, so it coudl actually run for an entire day in my pocket and not drain the battery


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## Curious_character (Apr 29, 2008)

victor01 said:


> After several months of owning and using LF2 XRE on a daily basis. I found one short coming in this light, it is simply too easy to turn on. It would turn on at the very instant the head register the slightest twist. When placed in a pant pocket, a slightest knock would turn it on draining the battery for a whole day.
> Do other people's light has this issue? And how do you prevent them.
> I'm impressed with this light (even getting the new LF2X often flashes into my mind). But being plague with this problem is a bummer. Thanks.


Yep, mine is like that Just the very slightest twist turns it on -- it's just about impossible to twist it from the off position by any amount without turning it on. I've found it dead several times apparently due to turning itself on in my pocket.

c_c


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## lengendcpf (Apr 29, 2008)

Can you turn the tailcap by 1/2 or 1 turn known as tailcap lock out. This will prevent the light from accidently turning on..
.


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## Thujone (Apr 29, 2008)

lengendcpf said:


> Can you turn the tailcap by 1/2 or 1 turn known as tailcap lock out. This will prevent the light from accidently turning on..
> .



Do you have a Liteflux light? Lock out how you describe it is commonly used on clicky lights. LF lights are tight = off twistys. You actually tighten the head onto the body for a secure off position. They are far less likely to be turned on in your pocket than a loose = off twisty.


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## Curious_character (Apr 29, 2008)

lengendcpf said:


> Can you turn the tailcap by 1/2 or 1 turn known as tailcap lock out. This will prevent the light from accidently turning on..
> .


Sure, but that reduces the ease of use in normal operation.

c_c


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## AlexLED (Aug 19, 2008)

EntropyQ3 said:


> A question - is the adjustment of levels still linear rather than logarithmic? Or in other words - does it still feel very quick on the dark end and slow on the bright?



Indeed, that's especially confusing to new users like myself. I spend about an hour turning the LF2X a zillion times, till I figured that I needed more patience. All functions seemed to work except the adjustable levels. I was always merely sweeping somewhere between 75 and 100%, where you don't perceive much change in brightness. 
 

Now that I figured that out, great lamp ! I programmed P1 to 0.2%, P2 to 100% and the variable to about 50%. Now I have all I need quickly available. 
:twothumbs

However, a log sweep would be better.


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## Gatsby (Aug 19, 2008)

No question that initial programming is a bit of a trial and error exercise, but once fitted out the LF2 is a thoroughly satisfying edc or key chain light.

It's the first light to displace a Photon Microlight from my keychain as I finally found the features, beam quality and versatility outweighed the increase in size to a AAA form light on my keys, which I like to keep lightweight. The LF2 (and I agree about the floody SSC P4 beam) has been outstanding. I had one small kink that was easily resolved. I've carried it on my keys now for about 10 months and the only wear it shows is a very slight thinning of HA on the tailpiece edge. Otherwise has held up _*extremely*_ well in consistent keychain carry. Dare I say it but better even than the HA on my old Arc AAA.


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## fluke (Sep 2, 2008)

Hi Khoo, I sent you a PM on CPFMP not sure if the messaging is working correctly.

So I sent it here as well.


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## Whitecat (Sep 18, 2008)

Hi, I was wondering if anyone could suggest whether a pocket clip from a Arc AAA or L0D would fit the LF2? Or can the stock pocket clip be reversed (doesn't look like it)?

Was hoping I'd be able to be be able to clip it to a cap brim for hands-free use, other than this the LF2 sounds perfect.


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## fluke (Sep 18, 2008)

The Fenix L0D clips work well on my LF2.


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## wacbzz (Oct 4, 2008)

I just got a LF2 from a fellow CPFer and really like it. I think it will now take the place of my ARC AAA-P on my keychain. 

Quick question. I watched the video on accessing the functions via the "press" way. I find this to be way easier than twisting. Anyway, my question is this: when I first turn the light on in standard mode to P1, is this as low as the light will go? And in P2, is this the max brightness that the light will achieve? 

If it is, great. If not, how do I get to these dimmer/brighter levels?? Thanks.


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## HKJ (Oct 4, 2008)

Congratulation with the light.

Default is supposed to 15% and 50%.

Your have to do a SW*6 (Turn P1-P2-P1 or P2-P1-P2) to get into programming. This will start in P1 setting.

Turn to P2 for brightness to change, do a fast SW*2 if it changes the wrong way.

Use SW*3 to save changes for the P1 level and move to brightness for P2.

Do the same for P2 and finish with SW*3

When finished, turn of the light (This can be done at any time to get out of the programming).


Also note that using LiIon batteries will use a higher level than NiMH batteries.


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## wacbzz (Oct 4, 2008)

Umm...yeah...I'm pretty much lost. :thinking:


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## EugeneJohn (Oct 4, 2008)

wacbzz said:


> Umm...yeah...I'm pretty much lost. :thinking:



This is what I did when first getting my LF2 and it was really helpful.

There should be white 'dot' on the head. When I got mine, the dot lined up with the "LiteFlux™ LF2" when the light was off, but now its not quite aligned anymore. No prob.

First, twist the head very slowly until you find the point where it switches from 'p1' to 'p2'. 

Second, break off the end of a wooden toothpick, tear a sliver of paper, make something small and noticable and tape it to the rear half of the body at the point opposite the 'dot' where the p1/p2 shift occurs. 

Now you can do your switching with a greater degree of confidence. I like the toothpick in that it gives a tactile reference.

I tried the 'press' method of switching, but I just couldn't get the hang of it. The 'toothpick' method worked really well for me.

Good luck, the LF2 is a great little light. Mine lives on my keychain and gets more use than any other light I have.

I would suggest you reset the light to factory settings before you customize it. That way you should have a better idea of whats going on.


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## HKJ (Oct 4, 2008)

wacbzz said:


> Umm...yeah...I'm pretty much lost. :thinking:



Your just have to learn how to use the light.

Start by turning it to P1 (This is my preferred start position).

Then do two fast P1-P2-P1 turns, i.e. quickly turn it to P2 and back to P1 twice.

Your are now in user mode, where the brightness will change when your turn to P2. If the brightness does not change, it just means your have reached min or max. Set the light to P1 and do two fast twist to P2 and back to P1, this will change the direction.

The twists your need to learn first are:

One twist from P1 to P2 and back to P1, this will select constant brightness.

Two twist from P1 to P2 and back to P1, this will select user adjustable brightness.

3. twist from P1 to P2 and back to P1, this will select strobe.

Learn these 3. twists, then your can get back to my first post.




Generally to use the light your have to learn how do do a twist (called SW in the manual) and then just follow the flowchart in the manual. When your have programmed the light, your only need the 3. twist I described above.


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## Thujone (Oct 4, 2008)

This light is not for every user. But if you are willing to learn the programming then you can make it into your ultimate keychain light. I have two spares in the drawer for future use. You just cant beat it with a stick.


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## wacbzz (Oct 4, 2008)

Ok, I got it. Now I have P1 at the lowest setting (not sure of percentage, but it is like my D10) and P2 at 100%. 

For anybody that is just buying one, *go immediately to post #107.* This will explain _exactly_ how to adjust the LX2. 

Thanks for all the help HKJ and fellow CPFers.


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## Unforgiven (Oct 4, 2008)

Continued


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