# Ultrafire WF-1300L is here



## TAIGERSX

This light has been "known" for pushing 1000 lumens OTF and good regulation so I decided to give it a try :naughty:. I got it from HKELVISFEVER. So here it is:


The type 2 HA finish is OK








This light is using 7*SSC P4 with each LED is driven at 1A ( manufacturer spec)









The threads are above average and not very smooth. This light uses the same battery tray as the Ultrafire RL-2088.







The driver 







It seems like this is something that the WF-1300L owners have to live with: NICKS OUT OF THE ENVELOPE :green:









*Initial impression*: This light is definitely the brightest light I own for the first 10 minutes. Now it's DEAD  . I think the reason is due to the twisty tail switch. It works very erratically. Sometime it's on, sometime it's off . After I removed the crushed o-orings the light is completely dead. It seems to me this is because of the contact problem as the O-rings help keep the tailcap straight in place. The orings that came with it are very flimsy and actually crushed by the tailcap threads when I twisted the tailcap. I hope looking for a new O-rings would solve the problem.What I'm gonna do with this light now I'm not sure :shakehead. So if anybody out there thinks about getting this light, please think again. It's not worth it .


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## DUQ

Sorry about the switch problem. I own 2 Ultrafire light's and both have had switch problems.


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## recDNA

Too bad...looks cool if it worked.


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## kramer5150

The Ultrafire lights I have owned have all required some tweeking to get them to perform their best. They both suffered the same serious design flaw, in that the tail cap screw threads were the primary electrical conduction path. If I used the light un-lubed it was fine, if however the thread lube got just a little bit discolored and dirty, it would suffer from poor conduction. In each case I needed to grind the tailcap shorter to get the body tube to tighten directly against the switch pill.

Its hard to tell from these pics but there is a very slight gap between the switch cap and the adjacent raised shoulder around the body. This ensures that current conducts directly from the switch pill to the body tube.

Its hard to tell from your verbal description what exactly is the hang up... but I think if you worked with it theres a good chance it has some potential...


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## Outdoors Fanatic

I'm gonna have to pass on that...


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## applevision

DUQ said:


> Sorry about the switch problem. I own 2 Ultrafire light's and both have had switch problems.



It is a cool, beefy little light!

And too bad indeed. 

I guess (and I mean no sour grapes), this speaks to what folks are always saying build quality and getting what one pays for.

:tired:


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## The Dane

I'll take it, faulty and all, for a fair price?


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## strinq

Lol, opportunist


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## Monocrom

It's actually quite sad...

At the very least, an interesting concept and design; plagued by **** poor execution and horrible lack of Q.C. :shakehead


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## DimeRazorback

Beamshots would be interesting 

Hope you get it all fixed!


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## Creecher

Monocrom said:


> It's actually quite sad...
> 
> At the very least, an interesting concept and design; plagued by **** poor execution and horrible lack of Q.C. :shakehead


 
Ultrafire summed up in one sentence! It is a pity they can't even produce a decent box or packet, so your new toy is often damaged on arrival.


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## gallonoffuel

applevision said:


> I guess (and I mean no sour grapes), this speaks to what folks are always saying build quality and getting what one pays for.



Exactly.


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## richardcpf

The driver (pic #4) says *Ultrefire?*


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## Outdoors Fanatic

richardcpf said:


> The driver (pic #4) says *Ultrefire?*


LOL!!! They can't even get their own name right...


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## Cigarman

Not to lose hope too quickly. My RL-2088 had weird switch on problems and it seemed more from that darn grease all over everything that was messing up the works. I think once the switch gets some useage it becomes a little better. If there is any, wipe all the lubro-snot off everything and reassemble it. Might help...might not. Worth a try tho.


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## TAIGERSX

Cigarman said:


> Not to lose hope too quickly. My RL-2088 had weird switch on problems and it seemed more from that darn grease all over everything that was messing up the works. I think once the switch gets some useage it becomes a little better. If there is any, wipe all the lubro-snot off everything and reassemble it. Might help...might not. Worth a try tho.


 
Actuallly WF-1300L is a different story. After I removed 2 crushed flimsy orings on the body tube,the body tube was no longer be able to fit the tailcap tightly. U can imagine this by taking a 7 mm cap and screw it in a 5mm bottle. There is a gap between tailcap and the body tube. I'm trying to find the 40mm O-rings to solve this problem. I'm not losing hope on this light cuz it would be a beast after getting fixed.


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## bigchelis

Hi,


I searched for the out the front lumen readings, but MrGman doesn't have it. Can you please provide where you saw it makes 1000 out the front lumens.


IMHO: After purchasing several 1000 claimed lumen lights that eventually got tested. You would be lucky to get 700~800 out the front. You have the heatsink issues which may or may not be as adequate as you may think. Even lights built like tanks may not produce the numbers due to heat. Especially; if the R2's are driven near 1A. 500 lumens to me is super bright and anything more is just for showing off to friends and family. (it is what I do with my lumen monstors) 700 plus lumens inside my house hurts me more.:laughing:

Jose


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## recDNA

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> LOL!!! They can't even get their own name right...


 
Maybe Ultrefire is a knockoff of Ultrafire? That would be justice! LOL


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## Outdoors Fanatic

recDNA said:


> Maybe Ultrefire is a knockoff of Ultrafire? That would be justice! LOL


Priceless! LOL


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## moerush04

I am glad I caught this thread. I have been very tempted to buy this light thinking that it was about the only light worth its weight that could outshine my Olight M30. I even bought three new AW 18650 batteries in anticipation of buying it. After seeing this thread I am going to hold off until I hear about a way to repair this flawed light that is easy and effective. I am sorry to hear about your luck. $145 is no small amount for a light. I really wish Ultrafire would have taken the time to build this light right. It has so much potential.


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## bstrickler

richardcpf said:


> The driver (pic #4) says *Ultrefire?*




It looks like the people who made the PCB screwed up the "a" in UltraFire. If you compare the "a" with the "e" in the PCB, you'll see that its the "a", but just rotated wrong.

~Brian


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## JeffInChi

When it works, it's bright!

check out this guys thread:

our beamshot comparasion


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## SunFire900

After I saw the beamshot comparisons it became evident that this light is about the equal to the Wolf Eyes Super Storm in brightness and beam profile. It does not equal the WE in build, unfortunately.

If I owned this light...I would make it work *right*, somehow, some way.

7 SSC U2's.....Great idea.


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## Monocrom

SunFire900 said:


> 7 SSC U2's.....Great idea.


 
If a quality company cranked out this little powerhouse, it would sell like crazy!


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## Eagleout

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> LOL!!! They can't even get their own name right...



The Chinese have got to stop using Babel Fish when naming their flashlights.


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## richardcpf

Eagleout said:


> The Chinese have got to stop using Babel Fish when naming their flashlights.


 
But even babelfish translates to Ultra fire.


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## waddup

im positive almost anyone could get this light to work well with a couple hours, some replacement parts and some solder.


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## rizky_p

LOL regarding Ultrefire..

makes me wonder about Ultrafire's other "monster" using Osram LED regarding quality.


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## jahxman

rizky_p said:


> LOL regarding Ultrefire..
> 
> makes me wonder about Ultrafire's other "monster" using Osram LED regarding quality.


 
I think you're referring to the RL-2088. I have had one now a couple months, so far it has been a solid performer with no real problems to speak of, and an impressive wall of cool white light.


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## max007007

Hi, anyone managed to find a hoslter for Wf-1300l? I am looking high and low for one.


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## Outdoors Fanatic

waddup said:


> im positive almost anyone could get this light to work well with a couple hours, some replacement parts and some solder.


You should not need to mess with soldering plus hours of work with a 145 dollars light.


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## marcelg

Hi, this is my first post, i'm from Catalonia in south Europe, i'm also a flashlight maniac and even i have been here many times, i will never feel the need to post till now.

I have also purchased that flashlight, after making the order i have seen that message and now my wf-1300l is faulty too, in my case the problem is on the tail switch, it don't click at all, i must un-screw it to stop the light, i can't understand why the quality control in ultrafire is soo low, i have contacted with Kai to repair it, but it will cost me a lot of money to send to Hong Kong.

Thanks for such a great forum.

Sorry if a make any mistake, but my English is not as good it must be.


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## jirik_cz

marcelg said:


> in my case the problem is on the tail switch, it don't click at all, i must un-screw it to stop the light



:welcome:

Your light is fine. It doesn't have clickable switch. It is twisty switch and it works exactly as you described


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## marcelg

jirik_cz said:


> :welcome:
> 
> Your light is fine. It doesn't have clickable switch. It is twisty switch and it works exactly as you described


Hi, thanks for your reply, then how i stop the light or change the light power?, i can't find the way to use it.
You mean that i must un-screw the tail cap to stop the light?, seems strange on an 130$ flashlight.

Thanks a lot.


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## jirik_cz

marcelg said:


> You mean that i must un-screw the tail cap to stop the light?, seems strange on an 130$ flashlight.
> 
> Thanks a lot.



Yes, exactly. To change a mode, you have to quickly un-screw and screw the tailcap. (on-off-on). I also don't like this kind of user interface, but that is the way how it works...


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## Mattole

Aside from the strangeness of the twisty tail cap, what do you think of the light output and runtime. I have heard that is has "Buck regulation" - what does that mean?


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## marcelg

jirik_cz said:


> Yes, exactly. To change a mode, you have to quickly un-screw and screw the tailcap. (on-off-on). I also don't like this kind of user interface, but that is the way how it works...



Thanks a lot jirik_cz, now i know i got a working unit, but i can't understand why manufacturer don't give a simple sheet with the info to operate it!

Good luck

PD, i have ordered an RL-2088 to hkelvisfever, it will be my last one, or my wife will think about to kill me!


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## jirik_cz

Mattole said:


> Aside from the strangeness of the twisty tail cap, what do you think of the light output and runtime. I have heard that is has "Buck regulation" - what does that mean?



The output is very good, definitely over 1000 lumens. LEDs are wired in series so it is using boost driver (step-up). Regulation in high mode is flat and runtime with 3xTrustfire 2500mAh is 60-70 minutes in high mode.


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## SunFire900

When I look at these beamshots (link below) by alefedos, it looks like this light outshines them _all_. The combination of great flood and throw is commendable. Even a little brighter than the WE Super Storm. That's amazingly bright. Too bad the overall build quality and reliability is not better. It's also difficult for me to figure out how they can wire seven LED's in series and supply 1A to each of them.





Anyone have an answer?


http://fonarevka.lux-rc.com/

Check out the super underground tunnel shots, if you haven't already.


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## eproblemsolver

max007007 said:


> Hi, anyone managed to find a hoslter for Wf-1300l? I am looking high and low for one.



This maybe a little late, but wouldn't the holster that fits the Wolf Eyes Super Storm fit? They sell them at Pacific Tactical for 16.99.

Cheers,


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## FlashPilot

eproblemsolver said:


> This maybe a little late, but wouldn't the holster that fits the Wolf Eyes Super Storm fit? They sell them at Pacific Tactical for 16.99.
> 
> Cheers,


 
Bump.

Id like to know as well. Anyone have both to try?


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## Tora

Actually, I have just ordered both. I will know in a few weeks. There was another option but it was a soft nylon case. The Pacific Tactical case was much higher quality. It fits the WE SS / TK40 / WE Boxer - similar dimensions to the 1300l. The light beam tests from Russia were just too convincing. The 1300 is just what I need for work as a replacement for my RL-2088.

I'll re-post when I have something to report - along with my beam and flashlight in holster shots. :twothumbs


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## FlashPilot

Thanks Tora! Im looking forward to it.


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## Tally-ho

SunFire900 said:


> Check out the super underground tunnel shots, if you haven't already.



I made screen captures some days ago.

Ultrafire WF-1300 (top)
Wolfeyes Super Storm (bottom)

According to beamshots, the Wolfeyes is brighter at close range, both seems quite close at mid/long range.



Tally-ho said:


> Or an Ultrafire WF-1300L (3*18650) for about 150$ on ebay.
> 
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> Pictures: http://fonarevka.lux-rc.com/


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## phantom23

I'm wondering how bright would it be with seven XP-Gs R5...:naughty:


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## Tora

The case arrived as well as the flashlight. It fits except for the flap - it WAS too short to fit around the fat head of the light. I merely cut the flap and sewed on extra multi-folded black cloth and it fits perfectly. I LOVE this flashlight. I use it at work....OK...I look for opportunities to use it often at work. It is brighter and has a wider flood than the 2088. This light is a beast. I shall submit beam shots later this week. 

Again, with modification...the case fits well. I wear it on my duty belt every night at work. Well worth the cost. My light works flawlessly and I am VERY happy with it, as well as the case with my modification. :twothumbs


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## amaretto

pictures of WL in holster, please


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## Tora

I plan to take the pictures later tonight after I wake up :tired: (I work nights - I am off until Sun). 

I shall take photos of the holster, with and without the light in it, along with some beam shots in comparison with the 2088. It should be posted by 3 am or so (PST).

Stay tuned. :wave:


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## Tora

This is a photo of the case from Pacific Tactical. Remember, I had already modified it at this point. The flap was extended with a black dishcloth / Dental Floss / Industrial Thread. Hey, I'm a guy....function over form.

Yes, it is UGLY. But, I was like a kid with a new toy. I just had to use it that night at work. I cut and sewed while at work in half an hour.

I am quite sure all could do a much better job at the modification with superior materials and skill. The point being is, for under $20.00 - a very good case for the UltraFire WF 1300L may be had.

The belt loop, as well as the flap, have both velcro and a snap, to close securely.

























Comparative beam shots:















I LOVE THE ULTRAFIRE WF - 1300 L ............WOOOF!


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## Tally-ho

Is there a way to install a cliky in the tailcap ?
(Nice beamshots)


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## Tora

That I don't know. The button is for momentary on and mode change. You just turn the end cap for steady on. It fits my needs perfectly. This light is just great.


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## Tally-ho

How does the button work when the tailcap is screwed down ?

When the tailcap is unscrewed, it is used as momentary on, but when the tailcap is screwed down, what's happening when you press on it, it changes the mode to the next one ? Does the light turn off when you press on it (tailcap screwed down) ?

With tailcap unscrewed. If you press the button one time the light is momentary on, if you release it and press it again, does it change to the next mode while momentary on again ?


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## Tora

The button only works when the tail cap isn't screwed down. You depress halfway to change modes. It has last mode memory. It takes but a quarter to half turn to screw it down. I rarely use the light long at one time. If so, I screw down the cap. 1-15 sec or so, I just depress the button. It works well that way. The light output, and pattern, is just too good to worry about not having a clicky on. IMNSHO


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