# What to do w/ 6d maglite



## Flakey (Dec 4, 2005)

Ok, so i just happened upon these forums and was blown away with some of the mag modding that can be done. Anyway i have a 6 DCell mag and i was wondering what i could to to it (keep in mind that i am a total novice when it comes to mag lite chopping.


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## innerlight (Dec 4, 2005)

First thing I ever tried was to drop some PVC into the body to tighten up the hole.

Then drop in 7 C cells and one of these bulbs:
http://www.light-edge.com/proddetail.asp?section=Super Bulbs&prod=WA01185PT

You may want a metal reflector from lightedge to handle the heat and a 52mm UCL or borofloat lens from flashlightlens.com

At some point you are going to want to move over to rechargeable batteries, but this is easy cheap and makes a BIG difference in output


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## Flakey (Dec 4, 2005)

awesome man. thx for the ideas .... ok so assuming i get crazy about this what is the next step? 

oh and what size pvc? .... and will i have to alter the end cap spring ?

Edit: oh yeah and assuming i throw in the pvc, 7c, and a Welch Allyn 1185 Potted Bulb. what kind of battery life would i see? and could i still put in the standard krypton bulb with the 7c configuration?

thx alot guys :twothumbs


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## andrewwynn (Dec 5, 2005)

wowza.. hey.. welcome to CPF.. you are going to have your mind blown when you see the real potential of a light that size... I keep an unmodified 3D around just for a baseline.. the current lights i'm building are on the order of 30 to 100x as bright.. 

http://m6.rouse.com

http://mag100.rouse.com 

the 1185 is really too much current to drive effectively from alkalines.. an absolutely phenominal use of that powerplant would be 7C cells and the 1274.. just do not use 'store bought' NiMH.. they typically are an AA cell in a C or D body.. get them from batteryspace.com or someplace.. a C cell should be like 7000-8000mAH, NOT 2500! 

I have a regulator coming out that would let you get away with more options.. like using 7 Cs to run a 6-cell bulb... but without dimming.. 

http://hotdriver.rouse.com is the thread talking about it.. it'll be a month or so before those are out. 

the 1185 bulb is pretty much impossible to beat.. it takes 9 cells to run nicely (NiMH).. or 10+ with regulation to really smoke. (picture of it on the mag100 page).. if it was possible to bore out the light, you could fit ludicrous quantities of 5/4A cells and get crazy runtime.. it could be a 2 hour long 1185 runner.. or a 100W light that runs for 20 minutes or more.

keep looking there is a lot out there.

If you want the light to be dead-simple, and reliable.. VERY bright and have runtime galore.. the 1111 bulb from 6 NiMH is very hard to beat.. get 6x10AH cells.. the 1111 pulls 3.68A at 7.2V.. so you'd get about 2.5 hours continuous runtime!

using 7C cells and the 1274.. it would be brighter and lighter.

Good fun to play with a big host like that!

-awr


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## Flakey (Dec 5, 2005)

so yeah i was noticing that all of the mods that i was seeing were on 1 or 2 or 3 cell bodies and i was wondering what could be done with one of the long body lights. 

andrew, thanks a lot for the input. Do you think that you could throw some links as to where to get the aformentioned bulbs. and for even more fun, how i could transition my light to rechargable batteries. c and d cells can be expensive dont cha know. :thanks: alot guys


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## StevieRay (Dec 5, 2005)

Not to hijack this thread......but related, what would be the best options for a 4D? I want to consider both incandescent and LED?


Thanks


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## juancho (Dec 5, 2005)

Flakey,
I had two of the Magcharger sticks rolling on my center drawer and getting on the way, so I dropped them in the Maglite 6 D together with a aluminum reflector, Pyrex lens and a WA 01166 potted.

What a bright light!!!
I charge the sticks in my Magchargers but they can also be charged with any RC charger with leads.
I haven't had time to test run time yet
Good luck and welcome to CPF

Juan C.


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## Timson (Dec 5, 2005)

Don't forget....

With these high performance lamps you're pushing 20W+

Anything more that 3-4 minutes runtime is gonna melt your stock reflector...You'll really need an aluminium replacement.


Tim


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## Flakey (Dec 5, 2005)

Wow thanks alot for all the input guys im feeling a very warm welcome :twothumbs

ok so i guess here is what im thinking about doing at the moment:


converting to 7 C NiMH rechargable cells 
1274 Potted bulb (Do i need to do any moding to get this into the stock socket?)
alluminum reflector (what kind of finish should i get? stippled?)
pyrex lense 

(What are the dimentions of the PVC that i will need to convert from 6D to 7C. if anyone knows?)

what do you guys think? upsides downsides? light intensity? battery life? any alternitives? 

(I witnessed first hand the glory that is an m6 today at a knife store. the reflection off of my hand nearly blinded me lol my hope is to one day have a light that is at least that powerfull but that will last longer and be rechargeble in a 6D body) 

i dont plan on doing that all right away but you gotta start sumwhere right?

thanks again guys

- flakey, flashaholic in the making =P


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## Timson (Dec 5, 2005)

I recon your 7C, 1274 Mag with 5000Mah cells and MOP reflector should be an easy match for your 500 Lumen M6.
Should be good for upto 90 mins runtime.

The potted 1274 will be a direct drop-in.

Not sure what size of sleeving you'll need to pack out your cells. Go to you local Auto-Parts store....Radiator hose is available in various diameters and you'll likely find something suitable.

Buy good cells - eg Titaniums and do the Mag switch resistance mod and you'll have a real kick-*** light.

Good luck

Tim


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## Flakey (Dec 5, 2005)

thx alot tim =P


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## andrewwynn (Dec 5, 2005)

7C 1274 would be incredible. it's not an 'easy match' but it will beat the M6 handily in the long run.. with a stippled reflector it'll even have the beam quality to boot. 

I measured about 12% more lumen from the M6 compared to the 1166 with 900 bulb lumen (about the same as the 1274 will output with 7cells). Nonetheless.. it's not $400.. it will make an asbolutely fantastic light. 

1" PVC pipe is absolutely perfect for a C->D adapter.. just make sure you cut it short enough to clear the threads at the back.. not as long as the batteries! 

http//prfix.rouse.com shows how to drop the resistance of a magswitch from 170mohm to 28mohm! You don't have to go to extreme.. just the spring fix will halve the resistance to 80mohm.. but it's not difficult to do the rest when you have it apart.. 1hr tops. 

-awr


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## VWTim (Dec 5, 2005)

That link isn't working. Sounds interesting.


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## jashhash (Dec 6, 2005)

and hey... If at some point you feel the 6D mag is tad too bulky you could always use it as a baseball bat. Most ppl at CPF try to stay away from anything over 3D cuz of the bulk. But if thats not a concern then you could have incredible run time... and a rather forcefull combat light :naughty:


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## Flakey (Dec 6, 2005)

let me make sure ive got this right 

6d mag = 30
7C nimh rechargable batteries and charger = 52
UCL lense = 7 
reflector = 17.50
WA 1274 = 5.50
pvc pipe = 1
assorted shipping = 30

so we are looking at a 500 lumen torch that is way cooler than an m6 (cause i made it myself BIOCH!) for a total of $143 (if that) i have got to be missing somthing here right? 

so the M6 can fit in my back pocket ..... so what .... that just means that i cant beat anyone to death with it. i refuse to complain about weight or "cumbersome nature" when it comes to a portable sun. lets face it flashaholics 500 lumen torches are a tad bit rediculous in nature so why in gods name should they be bite size? lets not mention the $50 an hour running cost of an m6 (LOL) although it appears the M6-R is the most ingenious and impressive inovation this side of 900 Lumen sliced bread (yeah it toasts itself) 

but would i be correct in saying that i could very well fashion a rechargable 500 lumen torch/nightstick (although not regulated, but maybe that is coming) for less than 1/2 of the price of an M6-R (not to put down what JS managed to create (which i think is a beauty of engineering)) what am i missing here. or is the SF label really worth the extra 200+ dollars?

and i know that the M6 is designed to be a tactical combat torch but when was the last time any of us was deep in enemy territory with nothing but our witts, a beretta with 1/2 a magazine left and our trusty M6? (i know we have all wanted to be)


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## Flakey (Dec 6, 2005)

to jash 

actually the extreem bulkyness of the 6d is (besides lumen output for a cheap light) kind of what attracted me to it in the first place. 

the first night that i had it up and running i decided to go for a walk through the park at night (why the hell wouldnt you?) and i found that a few "shady looking teens" were hanging around the jungle gym. now im not normally one to think that anyone is going to attack me, but had i not been holding a light-emitting, 20 oz nightstick in my hand i would have been a little uneasy. As it was however i was totally at ease. (please get tough with me so i can blind you and then proceed to crack your head) if a 18 wheeler wont break a mag what makes you think your cranium stands a chance. 

long story short. I purchased (and love) my 6D because it is a rediculous flashlight. adding 400 lumens would only make it more rediculous and give me one more reason to sleep with it. 

thats right call me a flashaholic! :naughty:


P.S. does anyone know where i can buy a light stippled reflector that i could make fit into my mag?


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## CLHC (Dec 6, 2005)

Hello Flakey!

You'll have to express your interest in the stippled reflectors here:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/93992


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## MrBadger (Dec 6, 2005)

I've got a 50% off coupon (for any one item under $30) to the local hardware store that I need to use before the end of the year. I'm thinking of getting the 6D mag for the pure versatility of what's posible to do with it. I have technical skills whatsoever, so I want to keep it simple and utilitarian. Maybe in the future I'll take up something USL-esque. 

What I'm considering:

#1. 10x 1/2D (or 2x MagCharger sticks) and a potted 1166 - can quickly convert back to the stock bulb, or overdriving a 5 cell bulb with alkaline D's.

#2. 7x C and a potted 1274 - can quickly convert back to the stock 6 cell bulb (overdriven with 7 alkaline C's), or a 5 or 6 cell bulb with alkaline D's.

#3. Big D bulb(s) from Pelican with 6 NiMH D's. 

I might be missing something, but I'm tired. Time for bed.

Peace, 

Jeff


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## Timson (Dec 6, 2005)

Flakey said:


> P.S. does anyone know where i can buy a light stippled reflector that i could make fit into my mag?



The link mentioned previously won't get you a reflector quickly....They're not in production yet (as far as I'm aware).

You can, however get your quick fix Here 

I think the Medium Orange Peel (MOP) is the best compromise in smooth beam / throw.

These reflectors do *not* have the cam at the back, so you lose the quick 'spot to flood' adjustability....But who needs it...The surefire's don't have it - They're set at optimum focus, which is what you'll do with one of these reflectors.


Tim


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## witake (Dec 6, 2005)

Hi flakey, I don't know if this is any brighter than what you've got planned with the WA1274 bulb but I just did an ROP mod today and I think it's friggin bright!! It's supposed to generate approx 600 lumens and it's the easiest mod available. All you need is an aluminium reflector, glass lens, 6 nimh D batteries and the Pelican Big D SLA bulb (comes with 1 LO bulb and 1 HO bulb in a pack....even the low output bulb is 2-3times brighter than stock).....no need for battery adaptors or any cutting whatsoever.


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## KevinL (Dec 6, 2005)

Another vote for the ROP - if you don't like cutting and soldering. 

Load borofloat glass lens (flashlightlens.com), MOP reflector (sandwich shoppe), and Pelican bulb (lighthound.com) into the front end. Load six NiMH D cells into the rear. Light up and blast away with 700-800 OUTPUT lumens (1150++ bulb lumens).


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## Changchung (Dec 6, 2005)

Maybe that help you... I am thinking to make a mod to in my mag...
 
_Check this out..._​


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## andrewwynn (Dec 6, 2005)

you will be VERY happy with the increased output of using 7 vs 6 cells with the 1274.. with 6 cells use the 1111.. but what's the fun in that? 

MOP will be nice.. you will still have a LOT of throw and a lot of flood as well. 

see the pictures at http://M66.rouse.com in the first set of pictures the M66 has the LOP reflector and in the last it has the most extreme stippled reflector. 

the light you are describing will handily outperform the M6, twice the size, but it'll knock it dead in it's tracks. 

-awr


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## Yooper (Dec 6, 2005)

KevinL said:


> Another vote for the ROP - if you don't like cutting and soldering.
> 
> Load borofloat glass lens (flashlightlens.com), MOP reflector (sandwich shoppe), and Pelican bulb (lighthound.com) into the front end. Load six NiMH D cells into the rear. Light up and blast away with 700-800 OUTPUT lumens (1150++ bulb lumens).




couldn't find the Pelican bulb at lighthound. Is there another source?

This is a sweet thread, btw, for newbs like me. This might be my first mod...


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## jwl (Dec 6, 2005)

Yooper - http://www.lighthound.com/sales/flashlight_bulbs.php - Bulbs you were looking for. I think I need some too.:rock:


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## andrewwynn (Dec 7, 2005)

keep posting the results.. love to see the 'first mods'. 

-awr


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## Flakey (Dec 7, 2005)

wow whell thanks alot for all of the input guys. the second that i gather about 100 bucks im going to make this puppy a reality!

oh and a question about nimh batteries (sry if this is in the wrong forum) my light at this point will be unregulated and will thus dim as my cells loose their charge right? at what point do you suggest charging cells ? how will i know when to turn the light off? can i kill the nimh by running them dry? sorry but im grabbing bits and pieces of knowlege here and there so that question may be stupid but w/e!


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## makar (Dec 7, 2005)

:devil: use it as a fence post


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## andrewwynn (Dec 7, 2005)

just plugging in a bulb is not a 'mod' .. i think flakey wants some under the hood experience.. 

the 1274 from 7 cells will give you a crazy startup brightness.. close to 1500/1000L for a moment while the batteries settle down to reality.. and they will hold about 900/600L that is 'on par' with an M6.

the safe low voltage for 7xNiMH is about 6.3V.. at that point you'll have about 332/216L.. i think you'll *probably* notice before they get that dim.. in other words, quite a nice match. 

NiMH really have not much usable power below 1.1V/cell or 7.7v in this case.. which will get you about 670/440L where the light really will just drop in output like a rock. 

I just took some pictures of a very similar solution.. 1111 in a 2D host using 6x17500 cells.. 

the slideshow is here

a head-to-head picture of the M11 vs the M6:







To get a beam like that you need a stippled reflector... look at the beamshots at http://M66.rouse.com or http://rouse.com/M66 to see the results with an LOP reflector.. it still has more flood than the M6 but with a lot smaller center spot that is 2 to 3x as bright (which is really excellent for showing off.. a good solid block of through..400-500ft).. the M6 is good for maybe 150-200 tops.. it's definitely better for closer work than farther work.

I set up a test for the 1274 with 8.3V and it was awe-inspiring.. if you've not seen the likes of a 25-30W maglight you are in for a holy cow kind of a treat.. you will have about 15x the light you are used to seeing come from the 6D light, not kidding. 

-awr


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## Flakey (Dec 8, 2005)

i cant wait, purchased and cut the PVC today ... fits like a glove. i have the reflector, lense and bulb on order ... dont have enough $$ for Nimh and charger yet =(

for a test run would regular duracells work ?

oh god cant wait cant wait YIPEE!

:naughty::naughty::rock::rock::rock::rock::rock:

What do i need to sodder? is there anything internally that i have to mod? (aside from batteries)


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## andrewwynn (Dec 8, 2005)

two problems with alk... resting voltage is too high .. very high risk of instaflash.. and they can't really handle the current. 

improving pr switch: http://prfix.rouse.com


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## Flakey (Dec 10, 2005)

Would just soddering the spring be enough for the WA1274 - 7c ?

is there a link to a place that i could buy a prefabbed swich if i mess mine up?
(when i get a soddering gun in my hands things can get messy =P )

btw thx alot for all your help andrew !! :thanks::thanks::thanks:


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## andrewwynn (Dec 10, 2005)

very difficult to mess up badly.. and yes.. 1/2 the resistance is just in the spring alone.. in-fact about 2/3.. only from soldering the spring to the pads drops the resistance from 160 to 80 mohm.. but soldering solder wick to the two pads through the spring will drop the total resistance to something close to 50-60 if you put contact enhancer on the sliding contact and the switch contacts (where you push out the blue switch part, but you can leave that together).. 

with 8.4V nominal and stock switch: 760 bulb lumen
with 8.4V nominal and the spring fix.. 880 bulb lumen
with 8.4V nominal and KIU socket.. 913 bulb lumen (or all the fixes shown in the prfix thread). 

-awr


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## JasonC8301 (Dec 10, 2005)

test - ok I tried twice to post in response to Flakey's post about the $200 extra for a SF M6 over the modded Mag 6D. It works if I don't quote him (in this test), yet IE freezes up and shuts down on me when I do (*twice with long drawn out posts.) 

So here we go again,

8 months ago I was in enemy territory. I will not hesistate or blink an eye to spend $650 for a 6 cell SF weapons light system for my M16 if I get sent back to Iraq again. I am not a special forces operator so I don't get these gadgets issued, just a stock M16. Something is also wrong when it comes down to the side-arm, wouldn't worry about my M6 at that point.

Size, space, and batteries matter. I don't have access to AC power or want to deal with charging cells. If I need light, I want it now! Don't want to sit by a charger waiting. Let alone lugging around all this equipment to keep a flashlight running. An SC2 with spare lamp and 6 cells at the ready in the drop pouch, and a dozen or two cells in the truck will keep one running for a while or until resupply. 

These Mag mods are intersting, if I had a need and want to use rechargable cells I would, but at this current time I don't have the need to want to take care of cells. I just want to use them, throw them out, and put in fresh ones. I am not putting down the 6D, just wanted to point out the size, and use of primary batteries is critical for what it was designed for. 

Just pick the right tool for the job. The $200 extra spent for the M6 is for the engineering, manufacturing of it, and the service of it if something breaks. A 6D might be good for a walk in the park and make you feel comfortable around spooky, questionable teens, but for me I would rather be able to have more force on my side. I would not mount the 6D Mag on my rifle though, its too big, and I doubt it will stand up to the recoil of the rifle. 

For now my 6D Mag will continue to collect dust... (even with all this new interesting information to make it a retina burning illumination battering tool.)


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## paulr (Dec 10, 2005)

A Mag 6D might do a good job of deterring thugs in a park, but yeah, the M16 does it even better .

Flakey, I suggest getting one of Kiu's high temperature switch assemblies which have an integral bi-pin socket. There are slightly cheaper ways you can go but Kiu's switch just solves the problem once and for all. The simplest approach is to use a potted bulb (available from light-edge.com) and you might want to start that way since it just drops into your PR socket. But reliability is less, the bulbs cost more, the socket can melt, etc.


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## Warhoggie (Dec 10, 2005)

Another vote for pelican ROP. I don't know if i'm just lucky. But been testing both ROP both lo power and hi power bulbs with 7 AAs (Sanyo 2500), and the light output is sheer blinding. Can anyone figure out lumen output with this setup?


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## Lurveleven (Dec 10, 2005)

Warhoggie, measure the current and I can calculate the output for you.

Sigbjoern


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## Warhoggie (Dec 10, 2005)

With fresh 7 AAs I measured 3.18 Amps on the high power lamp. 1.89 Amps on the low power lamp. Batteries measures 9.25 volts

Factory rates the hi power lamp @ 24 Watts, the lo power lamp @ 11 watts

Thanks Lurveleven! 



Lurveleven said:


> Warhoggie, measure the current and I can calculate the
> output for you.
> 
> Sigbjoern


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## Lurveleven (Dec 11, 2005)

Are you sure the current measurement is correct for the high power lamp? 3.18A is much too low, the low power lamp would be brighter if that measurement is correct.
The high power lamp is rated 4A at 6V.

Sigbjoern


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## Warhoggie (Dec 11, 2005)

Hmmm, I used a Extech Instruments MiniTec 26 for the measurement.

Editted: Okay, i took a second reading, using a different setup for the reading. I waited til the reading settled. *On High lamp: 4.18 Amps. On low lamp: 2.11 Amps. Batteries measures 9.25 volts*


On the original reading I took all the batteries out and placed them in a battery adapter. I attached the bulb, and took a reading.

On second reading, I left everything in the maglite, and took the reading from the back end.



Lurveleven said:


> Are you sure the current measurement is correct for the high power lamp? 3.18A is much too low, the low power lamp would be brighter if that measurement is correct.
> The high power lamp is rated 4A at 6V.
> 
> Sigbjoern


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## andrewwynn (Dec 11, 2005)

a good lesson in battery resistane affecting flashlights!


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## Warhoggie (Dec 11, 2005)

Indeed! I should take a ohms reading on that battery adapter (stupid cheap retardshack product!)  





andrewwynn said:


> a good lesson in battery resistane affecting flashlights!


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## andrewwynn (Dec 11, 2005)

you can't really take an accurate ohm measurement in general you have to measure the voltage drop at a known current and calculate the resistance with ohm's law. 

=awr


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## Warhoggie (Dec 11, 2005)

Ok, I kinda remember doing that test to see the voltage drop when starting on a car engine.



andrewwynn said:


> you can't really take an accurate ohm measurement in general you have to measure the voltage drop at a known current and calculate the resistance with ohm's law.
> 
> =awr


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## Lurveleven (Dec 12, 2005)

Warhoggie said:


> Editted: Okay, i took a second reading, using a different setup for the reading. I waited til the reading settled. *On High lamp: 4.18 Amps. On low lamp: 2.11 Amps. *



That sounds better!

The lumen numbers I get from those current readings is 794BL/516TL for the High lamp and 709BL/461TL for the Low lamp. I find it strange that the Low lamp hasn't blown yet so hard it has been overdriven. :thinking:

Sigbjoern


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## Warhoggie (Dec 13, 2005)

Cool thanks! Where can I get the formula for the lumens? Does BL mean Bulb Lumens, and TL mean "through lens" Lumens?

And yeah, I had to really debate to try this test. I didn't want to lose a nice bulb due to my greed for more light! But, I went ahead any way. Am glad it didn't pop. I don't know what is the expected life of these bulbs, but I do noticed the filaments are quite thick for this type of bulb.




Lurveleven said:


> That sounds better!
> 
> The lumen numbers I get from those current readings is 794BL/516TL for the High lamp and 709BL/461TL for the Low lamp. I find it strange that the Low lamp hasn't blown yet so hard it has been overdriven.
> 
> ...


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## andrewwynn (Dec 13, 2005)

TL=Torch Lumens but means what you said.. what comes out the front.


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## snakebite (Dec 13, 2005)

Changchung said:


> Maybe that help you... I am thinking to make a mod to in my mag...
> 
> _Check this out..._​


too bad many of us wont see your site.
flash is nothing but an annoyance and lots of folks including me wont install it.


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## Lurveleven (Dec 13, 2005)

Warhoggie said:


> Cool thanks! Where can I get the formula for the lumens? Does BL mean Bulb Lumens, and TL mean "through lens" Lumens?
> 
> And yeah, I had to really debate to try this test. I didn't want to lose a nice bulb due to my greed for more light! But, I went ahead any way. Am glad it didn't pop. I don't know what is the expected life of these bulbs, but I do noticed the filaments are quite thick for this type of bulb.



Here you have all the formulas you need for rerating bulbs. In addition to the formulas you will need the bulb specifications, i.e. Voltage, Current, Lumens and Lamp life.
Pelican's bulb specs has flaws in them and lacks some information, but if we assume the Watt and Voltage ratings are correct, then this is the specs for the Big D SLA bulbs:
High: 6V 4A 600 lumens 30 hour life
Low: 6V 1.83A 290 lumens 30 hour life

Using your current readings I end up with 11.5 hour rerated life on the High bulb and 1.4 rerated life on the Low bulb.

Sigbjoern


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## Warhoggie (Dec 13, 2005)

Thank you so much! This is the information I hungry for! Wow it seems I can really shorten the life of bulbs. Kinda like a normal aspirated engine vs. a turbo engine I guess. Coming from a long line of Surefire Lamps averaging 25 hours, 30 hours is good enough for me. However, 11.5 / 1.4 Hours is not so good.








Lurveleven said:


> Here you have all the formulas you need for rerating bulbs. In addition to the formulas you will need the bulb specifications, i.e. Voltage, Current, Lumens and Lamp life.
> Pelican's bulb specs has flaws in them and lacks some information, but if we assume the Watt and Voltage ratings are correct, then this is the specs for the Big D SLA bulbs:
> High: 6V 4A 600 lumens 30 hour life
> Low: 6V 1.83A 290 lumens 30 hour life
> ...


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## Lurveleven (Dec 13, 2005)

Warhoggie, the life of the bulb will depend a lot on how you use the light. If you use it for very short moments at a time and always keep it fully charged, then the bulb life will be shorter than if you run the batteries down. I don't know if your current readings were with fully charged cells, but if it was, then you should know that the mid point values will be noticably lower, and the bulb life will be more (but lumens less).

I would not run the Low bulb on 7 AA, the High bulb on the other hand appears to be a very good match to your 7 AA setup.

Sigbjoern


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## Flakey (Dec 13, 2005)

i just got the bulb in the mail but it is bipin and it needs to go in the standard mag socket how do i do this?!?! ahh i want to use it!!!!!!!! do i buy an adapter? 

thx


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## CLHC (Dec 13, 2005)

Hello Flakey!

Check out the Group Buys and Passaround and look for FiveMega's bulb bi-pin adapter.


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## Flakey (Dec 13, 2005)

is there any disadvantage to just buying potted bulbs instead of bi-pin ? besides the price of the bulb itself?


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## andrewwynn (Dec 13, 2005)

the potting process is not 'friendly' to the bulb.. and it is not guaranteed to put the filament in the center.. with bi-pin you get to 'tweak' the bulb into the center and not worry about the bulb being damaged by the potting process. (ask NikolaTesla.. he had a potted 1185 bulb explode on him).

I have some potted 1111s that are nifty for a very easy mod, and will use them, but i would prefer to have a frosty reflector to overcome any issues with the non-centering.

-awr


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## CLHC (Dec 14, 2005)

andrewwynn said:


> the potting process. . .to the bulb. . .is not guaranteed to put the filament in the center. . .but I would prefer to have a frosty reflector to overcome any issues with the non-centering.



No qualms on this perspective.


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## Flakey (Dec 14, 2005)

thx so much 4 the input guys. i went ahead and ordered a potted bulb (next day air lol cant wait) and i guess im going to test it out. if i am unsatisfied then i guess i get to shell out $33 for a bi pin adapter and go with the bipin route.... as for now i have 7 c cell alkalines (for testing not perminant solution), some PVC, an LOP reflector and a bi pin bulb sitting on my desk taunting me =( why wont you all just play nice !!!!! lol i cant freaking wait for potted 1274 and UCL to show up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i need my 553 lumen bulb to tear through the darkness alreadY!!!:naughty:


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## bfg9000 (Dec 14, 2005)

I'd only use the 7 alkalines for testing with a 6D bulb and not the potted 1274, because the 1274 has a rerated life of 24 minutes at 10.5V. So you'd risk instaflash... AND it would go dim after a few seconds anyway since alkaline can't really deliver the amps. Really needs the 7 NiMH cells and 8.4V to work properly.


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## andrewwynn (Dec 14, 2005)

what bfg said.. 

to achieve a testing solution you might be able to use SIX alkaline.. they actually might deliver the voltage for a spell to light up the light. under load i would not expect much more than 1.2V/cell but it'll light up and the 9.0V no load is less than the 9.8 no load of 7 NiMH with a fresh charge.. 

If you had the thing out of the case you could have a soft-start solution like having a 1ohm resistor in series that you could take out... best bet is likely to wait for the NiMH as well, tough as that is. 

-awr


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## 270winchester (Dec 14, 2005)

Do you want an incandescent only? You can build an amazingly long runningl ight with a 6 cell capacity. For example, using a Downboy converter, a heat sink and a Lux III you can build a serious thrower that will last for days....


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## Flakey (Dec 15, 2005)

OH my lord ... it is bright .... it is really really bright. its 1 in the afternoon out here in california and the beam is visible outside.... it can cut through car headlights... omg and i dont even have the NiMH batteries in it yet ... just 6d alkalines .... underdriven it is bright as hell .... oh gods speed little c cells gods speed! 

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=40

those are the batteries that i ordered. will they be a good match with the 1274? 

do i HAVE to mod the mag swich? the 1274 is a 20 watt bulb and i read somewere in CPF that mag swiches were reliable up to 30 watts. Will the only think that i am loosing be lumens? or am i seriously at risk for insta-flash? and if so, why? i am a little confused as to why limiting the current going into the bulb could flash it? if anything wouldnt making a more freely flowing swich increase the chance of damaging a bulb? sorry if these are noob questions but what can i say .... im a noob! but very very intersted in learning more. oh .. and where can i buy solderwick?

i cant get my mag swich out! :help:


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## andrewwynn (Dec 15, 2005)

it's about the AMPs not the watts that is critical. amps through resistance drops voltage and voltage to the bulb is what counts. it will work w/o the fix but at the cost of 10-20% of the light output. There is a chance that the resistance can be critical to keep from blowing the bulb.. 6 cells on an 1111 when using C cells can be disaster. so it might be ok to keep that resistance for now to help the bulb. 

solderwick can be bought at any store that would sell solder, i.e. radioshack. 

-awr


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## Flakey (Dec 15, 2005)

i cant seem to get the swich out of my light .. how do i get the thing outta there.


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## Flakey (Dec 15, 2005)

::double post::


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## andrewwynn (Dec 15, 2005)

Flakey said:


> i cant seem to get the swich out of my light .. how do i get the thing outta there.



1) remove rubber button cover
2) insert 5/64th hex through the switch
3) undo the screw with about 5 full turns
4) turn the switch to 'on' so it stays depressed.
5) push the switch out the tail of the light.

That's all there is to it.. sometimes it takes the likes of a broompole to get it out.. but usually shaking, tapping will get it out.

-awr


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## Flakey (Dec 15, 2005)

i made the solder inside of the spring... man this thing is bright even on 6D alkalines i cant freaking wait for my NiMH to show up. thanks alot for all of your help andrew


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## Warhoggie (Dec 15, 2005)

Thanks again Lurveleven! Tons of juicy information here!  





Lurveleven said:


> Warhoggie, the life of the bulb will depend a lot on how you use the light. If you use it for very short moments at a time and always keep it fully charged, then the bulb life will be shorter than if you run the batteries down. I don't know if your current readings were with fully charged cells, but if it was, then you should know that the mid point values will be noticably lower, and the bulb life will be more (but lumens less).
> 
> I would not run the Low bulb on 7 AA, the High bulb on the other hand appears to be a very good match to your 7 AA setup.
> 
> Sigbjoern


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## Flakey (Dec 17, 2005)

my bulb instaflashed when i put the charged NiMH's in =( :mecry:
is there a bulb that i could put in that would have less of a chance to flash running on 7c nimh than a WA1274? maybe underdrive a more powerfull bulb? 1166, 1185 ? i dont know if this is a stupid question or not cause im a NOOB! help me out guys! thanks.


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## Flakey (Dec 17, 2005)

OK i just got an idea i am going to convert my 6d mag to a 8c by extending the body about 2 inches =) 

each NiMH c cell is 1.2 volts X 8 cells = 9.6Volts toal output 

perfect for WA 1185 right? more light than overdriven 1274 and alot less risk of instaflash .. yes? ... no? help me! PLZ!

... hacksawing a maglite in 1/2 isnt easy ... lol but progress is being made!

ok ... done anyone got any ideas?is this a decent idea ? is my reasoning correct about not overdriving a 1185?


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Dec 17, 2005)

I don't have any switch mods at all. I do have a nice Five Mega 9AA-3D adapter in which I run 2100mAh Energizers against an 1185.

I would THINK 8C would be safe... but I am not an expert in any sense of the word.

The lack of resistence in the cells could be a factor...

Question however, why cut the 6D and extend it? Why not use SubC cells instead?

I know why I wouldn't...


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## Flakey (Dec 18, 2005)

because having an 8C maglight would be FREAKING AWESOME and there is no combination of smaller cells that would properly fit in a 6d .... also 8C = 9.6V perfect for 1186 bulb and i quote from light-edge.com
"9.6 Volt POTTED Miniature Halogen Bulb
3.15 Amps
30.24 Watts
50 hour lamp life
817 bulb lumen output"

it would be perfectly driven with 8C NiMH right?
if i am wrong here someone please give me a holler.
ships 2-3 weeks GRRRRR!!!!!


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## bfg9000 (Dec 18, 2005)

Yes, 1185 is generally used with 8 CBP 1650s or 9 lesser AA cells. The C cells might drop voltage even less than CBP 1650s do under load. But if I was going to cut up and weld two maglites to make an 8C conversion, I'd start with C maglites instead of D ones for the smaller handle size.

I would've just used the stock 6D bulb with 7C cells until I could try another 1274 or 7.2v axial bulb. But if you've already cut the 6D, a 12D mag could run a 12v bulb (even the Osram HLX 62138 like the USL) and double as a fine walking staff...


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## andrewwynn (Dec 18, 2005)

the 1185 would look ok i think in 8cell.. we are used to 9 but as you are learningn the hard way... those C cells just don't drop in voltage under load like the AAs do.. you'll be in VERY good shape once the hotdriver is available.. ironically the pr fix is definitely part of the problem for blowing bulbs.. makes lamps brighter but will blow them if too low of resistance and too big of batteries. 

putting a small power resistor in series with the load and using the 1274 might be the best bet for now. I would def. stick with the 6 vs 8cell light. you also might be able to wire up a small soft-start ckt that just limits the initial current rush and the bulb might survive startup on the full set of batteries.. 

The resistanct could be maybe wired into the tailcap spring.. like a pcb material with a power resistor connecting top and bottom.

-awr


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## Icebreak (Dec 18, 2005)

Lower the resistance in the switch, blow the lamp, add a resistor to keep the lamp from blowing?

I see that the Pelican 3854 H/L lamps are temporarily out of stock at Brightguy.

Were the batteries rested?

Theory, in and of itself, is good. It causes testing to take place which results in experience. Specific experience is better than theory. It's best to destinguish between the two.


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## andrewwynn (Dec 18, 2005)

yeah it is funny.. it is definitely a trick to use unregulated incan lights.. i 'threw in the towel' trying to walk that tightrope... enough of that 'resting cells' hogwash.. i want a light i can use at any time i want to. 

I warned that fixing the switch prematurely could make the lamp blow.. i wouldn't run a 1274 from 7xNIMH c cells DD.. just asking for the ligth to blow.. but maybe with just adding in a simple soft start which wquiles is working on might make it work even w/o the far more complicated regulator. 

-awr


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## andrewwynn (Dec 18, 2005)

andrewwynn said:


> There is a chance that the resistance can be critical to keep from blowing the bulb.. 6 cells on an 1111 when using C cells can be disaster. so it might be ok to keep that resistance for now to help the bulb.
> 
> -awr



See, i did warn about the issue.


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## Icebreak (Dec 18, 2005)

Exactly. The caution was clear.

Your posts were extremely helpful as per usual and Flakey is willing to try stuff. Watch out for that guy. Before you know it he’ll have a helicopter spotlight in a small bazooka sized torch.

When helping fellows that are new to this, most of us are very clear as to whether the advice is theory or specific experience. This thread is a good opportunity to remind those helping and those receiving help, just reading along or lurking, that all should distinguish between theory and specific experience.

When guys are tossing around ideas; small fires, explosions and meltdowns will take place. Part of the fun of learning is sharing theory. That’s really where I learn the most. An example of this learning is when you explained why high voltage is better for delivering power than low voltage. Ah ha! All kinds of things came together when I got that concept. I do think a successful first time build should be based on proven combinations. After that, go nuts.

Years ago when lemlux was teaching us about CR123 @ RatShack lamps some burnt fingers happened and super nova filaments occurred but some sweet lights resulted.

When Ginseng, PaulW, others and I were trading ideas on how to fix the resistance problems on the original VS1 3AAtoD holders some stuff got destroyed by the modified holders but it motivated ElecktroLumens to help out the HotWire guys with a version 2, Ginseng tested, lowered resistance holder. That really lit up the Incan mod world, so this was good. The V1s were for EL’s Blaster LED torches and worked fine for those.

When WallyRulz started poking around the idea of driving HotWires with Pilas, he, LightEdge, others and I had engaging conversations about possibilities and LE actually did it discovering the double click problem associated with the protection circuit. I thought it was a little dangerous, not too dangerous but uncharted waters for sure. Now guys are using unprotected Lithium Ions, which is dangerous IMO. For those wishing to do this, safe research and testing should take place and usually does. ROP LE is a good example of something I think is somewhat dangerous but has been fully tested by several members and is now an established and "known good" build.

So differentiating theory from specific experience is not only important for a successful build but for safety as well. We surely want folks to know that hot glass shrapnel can occur regularly, some chemicals can permanently injure, with the right combination of amps and resistance even 4.5 V can burn fingers or worse, some batteries can catch fire and a PM6 has the proven potential to become a cannon.







On resting cells. I don’t mind resting them for 5 – 10 minutes and sometimes that’s all it takes. Resting them for a couple of hours is irritating and I avoid HotWires that require that. A stick of 11 CB750 ½ AA @ WA1166 needs 5 minutes rest. A stick of 10 CB1200 ½ A @ WA1166 requires 2 - 3 minutes rest.

Until I can purchase an efficient circuit that allows me to use 11 of almost any cell @ WA1166, I’ll be resting cells for a few minutes. Flashing a 66 or exploding an 85 no longer fascinates me.






--------------------

- Jeff


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## andrewwynn (Dec 18, 2005)

Flakey i'm sure saw the warning and it's totally understandable that he just had to try it.. just like with me and my 1185 with 9x17500 cells.. even though it was the same voltage as the 9AA pack, i 'just knew' they would hold voltage better yet i tried anyhow.. love the 'jab' about when you can.. they are coming and you'll never have to rest those 1166 lights again. I run mine from the equivalent of TWELVE cells! 

-awr


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## Icebreak (Dec 18, 2005)

12 is good.


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## Flakey (Dec 18, 2005)

thanks for all of the input guys. please dont confuse my crying as complaining. I was fully warned and was just sad about a failed experiment. I fully understand that blowing a few $8 bulbs is to be expected when perfecting a lighting system. how many bulbs do you think the engeneers at surefire go through before they put a light on the market? lol anyway i think i am going to stick with the 7C-NiMH/WA1274 combination as i was really happy with the results until it went POOF! so now my main concern is how to keep it from happening again. 

i noticed Icebreak talking about resting cells before use. As i am a noob i have never heard of this before .. and now wish i had LOL! is this due to the fact that NiMH cells naturally loose charge overtime? would this work for my 7c-1274? i would totally be willing to rest my cells for 10 min before i light up the beast! no problem .. my light is nocturnal anyway - charge during the day ... own the night! hehe 

The only thing i modded in my swich was changing the spring. i have another spring laying around from the 3D should i just restore the switch to its factory setup until i can get my hands on a hotdriver? 

By the way the 6D body is totally unharmed and spotless however an old 3D payed the ultimate price in the name of science! lol as a side note 8C maglight looks AWESOME LOL it is GINORMOUS! lol ill have to snap a picture before i take it apart. 

again thanks much for all the input that you guys are giving me. im learning... be it the hard way or easy way


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Dec 18, 2005)

Hmph! In experimenting with different bulbs at different drive levels I pulled a 1274 from a Carley 912 Bi-Pin adapter it had been in. Whoops! This is the light that got run long enough to bubble up a reflector and it had sagged out of center. The 912 adapter is toast!

Alas, I am tapped out on such things. So I had to put a 4.8V .5a bulb in the 2D with 6AA. Oh the horror! All that sloppy crap in the beam!!!

I need another 912 or three, or several more MC switches. Neither which I expect to get before March at the earliest!

Talk about the hard way!!!


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## Icebreak (Dec 18, 2005)

You modded your 6D host by extending the body to accept 8C or you modified the tailcap and spring to accept 8C, or you bought a rare 8C? 

Where is Abtomat when size matters?

NiMhs naturally lose power over time, yes. They very quickly lose power in the first 2 minutes of rest. More at the 10 minute mark, 30 minute mark, 2 hour mark, 12 hour mark. The rate of loss slows down considerably but never ends.

I _think_ that you'll have a greater chance of success for your 7C-NiMH/WA1274 combination by resting the batteries for 10 minutes and using a standard switch. I _think_ I've recently read that combination works. If it does you might want to try the resting + adding the modified switch even though that would increase the possibiltiy of another catastrophic end of life event for the WA1274.

Apparently fear is not a factor for you.


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## andrewwynn (Dec 18, 2005)

like i said.. i knew flakey knew what he was doing.. just felt like pushing things a little to see where the edge of that envelope was.

Resting cells is a must.. i think it has more to do with that NiMH can deliver more current at a higher voltage when warm.. charging warms them up.. perhaps also the chemical reaction after just occurring is easier to un-do to let out the electrons. 

Since you have a spare switch.. swap them to get that spring reistance back.. it's about 80mohm.. that will get you about 0.3V drop which will make a big difference toward not blowing bulbs.. i bet with rested cells and the spring you'll be able to run the lamp. 

How'd you thread the 3D once lopped in half for the adapter? 

Definitely not a tragic loss, hopefully we'll get you set up soon with the driver and no more need to concern about that whole 'resting' thing.

-awr


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## Meduza (Dec 18, 2005)

Take a Xenon strobe bulb and a strobe circut frome some cheap disco-strobe (there is a few that works between 12 and 30v input) and a big capacitator instead of 1 of the D cells and use the rest of the space for NiMh AA's, that way you got 18v (5 D cell spaces * 3 cells * 1.2v) for the strobe circut to work with. 

That would be a nice and unique [email protected] mod


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## Icebreak (Dec 18, 2005)

Yes, warm NiMhs deliver more current than cold ones. In high current NiMhs the effect is even more evident. However, if you rest the NiMhs for 30 minutes until cool, then put them in an oven at 120 degrees for 30 minutes until warm again, they will not have re-achieved the original "hot-off-the-charger" voltage and should not flash the lamp...in theory.

Like I suggested, switch the switch, rest your puppies, re-load, own the night.


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## andrewwynn (Dec 19, 2005)

i did notice testing the Mag100.. (about 9A).. from 12x 1650 AA CBP in series.. that if i ran it for a minute.. stopped for 1/2 minute.. that on the second run the voltage will be higher than the first... very interesting to know about the heat from the chemical reaction is more dominant than just ambient heating. 

-awr


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## Icebreak (Dec 19, 2005)

_"that if i ran it for a minute.. stopped for 1/2 minute.. that on the second run the voltage will be higher than the first."_

Maybe chemical reconstitution is a little better resolution of power, in that rare plane of existence, than the forced electro-chemically constituted resolution of power that arrives at the beginning of that plane of existence?

Small stuff but small stuff can be important.

_"interesting to know about the heat from the chemical reaction is more dominant than just ambient heating."
_
Kind of like those pesky carbon based humans._
__
_


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## Flakey (Dec 19, 2005)

i started with a 6d and a 3d i then took the last 2" off of the 3d and put them onto the 6d i then put a legnth of 1" pvc pipe in the thing to fit c's instead of Ds and there you go 8c mag =)


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## andrewwynn (Dec 19, 2005)

the question was: how do you hold them together? duck tape? 

-awr


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## Flakey (Dec 20, 2005)

> You modded your 6D host by extending the body to accept 8C or you modified the tailcap and spring to accept 8C, or you bought a rare 8C?



but yeah i didnt actually fasten the two bodies together .. just mocked it up, i would have welded it had i found that that was the best option but alas ... 7c 1274 seems to be good enough =)


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## Lurveleven (Dec 20, 2005)

Fivemega sells 37mm extension tube, I think that is the best way if you want to run 8 C cells.

Sigbjoern


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## andrewwynn (Dec 20, 2005)

is the threading the same so can use it with standard D, not just MC? 

-awr


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## Lurveleven (Dec 20, 2005)

You can use a tailcap from a standard D on a MC, so I see no reason why you should not be able to use the extenders on standard D.

Sigbjoern


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## Flakey (Dec 21, 2005)

bad news guys 7C and 1274 do not i repeat DO NOT play nice together. i put the high resistance swich back in the light and rested the batteries for 20 minutes before dropping them in and POP! there goes a fres 1274 GRR so i throw in the stock mag bulb and run it on the batteries for about 2 minutes ... thinking that surely any over-charge would be free of the cells and that the 8.4V level would have already been reached. so i drop in my spare 1274 and POP! =( so until i can get a hotdriver for this puppy .............


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## andrewwynn (Dec 21, 2005)

that's what i said about the 1185 in the 2.5D 3x3 17500.. i don't know how people get away with that.. not me. 

-awr


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## Flakey (Dec 21, 2005)

so how long until there is a 8.4V hotdriver on the market andrew?


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## coldsolderjoint (Dec 21, 2005)

Flakey, Please excuse me if this is jacking your thread. 

I've very intriegued by this thread. I'm pretty much a noob as well here on cpf. I have 3 surefire lights, 1 6p, and 2 g2's, and Ive succesfully modded two Mag AA's with the nexgen 750 from sandwitch shop. 

I have about 3 years of highschool electronics training, and do have some basic electronic tools available. (Volt-ohm meter, logic probe, REALLY old oscilloscope, soldering iron, hand tools, dremel.. etc.) 

I also have a 6D maglite just waiting to be modded very much the same way that Flakeys was.. 

Im looking to use the girth of the 6d to my advantage. This light will not be used much, just to get a "OMFG, YOU SIR, ARE INSANE!" from my friends. I shouldnt need to whack too many things with it. Although, melting plastic bags and toasting bread will be a great reward from this build. I really like the idea of cramming 7 c cells into the 6d with spacer. 

Runtime can be small, 10 to 20 minutes would be fine. The budget for supplies, batterys, and charger should be under $100 optimally (flexible somewhat), I do alreadly have the 6d mag in great condition. Im sure im limited to high capacity Nimh batts with this build. Glass lens and metal reflector are a given. 

The one thing that troubles me most is the "instaflash" that flakey has experianced. This would be the worst thing I could have happen when trying to melt snow for my friends. 

I do have some elctronic experiance, so building circuits is not totally out of the question for me, i dont have much experiance with micro and surface mount stuff. That would probably be the thing I need the most help with on this light. 

I have been searching on this forum for about 4 hours now, and my head is spining. I did find one post that stated two magcharger cells and a WA 1185 could be used to put out over 1000 lumens.. this made me giggle like a school girl. Ive read the thread for the ROP from pelican, and it says 1150 lumens is possible, but I dont understand this, because pelican rates the bulbs at 600 lumens. 

Any and all help you could give would be appreciated. Thanks


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## coldsolderjoint (Dec 21, 2005)

on second thought, thats my goal, toasting bread, as well as melting snow and plastic bags


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## Yooper (Dec 21, 2005)

You're overdriving the bulb, so the Pelican ratings don't apply. I'm trying to build a 6D into a ROP right now too, but I'm stuck waiting for the MOP cammed aluminum reflector I want to be available.... I built a quick "6 AA's in a Mag 2D with Elecktrolumens adapters" ROP and it's nice and bright but the beam sucks using a non-cammed LOP reflector - I'm going to get some borofloat LDF lenses when they become available and see if I can improve that....I stuck a ROP 11W bulb into my 6D real quick with no other mods, just dropped the bulb in, and it's very satisfying just with that, and I can make a pretty decent beam with the stock Mag reflector.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Dec 21, 2005)

Questions Yooper...

Which bulb had the sucky beam even with a LOP? And could it have been that you couldn't get good focus and centering?

And the 11W is the lower bulb isn't it?

I need to get some Pelican bulbs.


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## andrewwynn (Dec 21, 2005)

there is a formula to estimate the difference in output when you over drive bulbs.. you can use WAs page to figure out this difference with any of their lamps.. 

http://bulbrater.rouse.com is a shortcut to their page. You can also download my spreadsheet.. http://hotrater.rouse.com i think it's there.. and modify to rate the pelican lamp or any other lamp for that matter.. you just need to know the initial values for current, voltage and lumen.. it will re-rate CCT as well.. it even takes into account the resistance of your flashlight circuitry, and automatically adjusts current down as resistance goes up. 

wquiles is working on a simple 'soft start' ckt that might make it possible to run the 7cell 1274 w/o the full boat regulator and would be easy for an EE type to build.. if you are more advanced you could copy my regulator.. http://hotdriver.rouse.com even though that ckt doesn't have the soft-start built in.. it does show how to introduce current-limiting which works about as well.. keeping the soft-start and high-temp ckts 'under wraps' for now. 

yooper 
With the non-cammed reflector sounds like you couldn't get the lamp into focus.. you need to shim down the bulb.. push it down into the stalk and use something to hold the bulb down.. put it in the groove above where the roller wheel is.. i have used a small nut like 4/40 or something and it worked very well. 

a REALLY fun mod with a 6D.. would be a uber long runtime 1185 bulld.. you'd want to have 18 AA cells in there and they'd have to be wired 'really cute like.. but i believe it could be done.. especially with modamag's holders.

MMs holders have rods going up top to bottom that in one case has full voltage and in one case has full ground.. if you stack two of these holders.. insulate the top from the bottom of the two.. and drill a nice size like 1/8th inch hole through them so you can wire up a nice thick wire from the ground to ground and from the hot to hot (center rod).. You will than have a double-capacity same voltage pack.. 10.8V.. and by halving the current draw (1.6A/cell).. you can easily get away with higher capacity cells like 2000-2300mAH cells.. it should put the runtime up in the range of 70+ minutes!

an 1185 lamp will burn a hole through a black plastic bag in just a matter of seconds.. not quite as fast as the USL but does not take long at all.. you can pan around on a large sheet of hefty bag and it will 'shrinkydink' like mad.. def. will get the ooohs and aaaah from the crowd. 

The 1274 is not far behind and is a simpler mod just using 7 batteries.. and a $1 holder you make yourself. 

It will be a lot easier to 'get away' with these mods once the hotdriver is available in quantity (about another month est.). 

Two magcharger batteries is 12V nominial .. somebody really has a lot of poker luck if they can pull off running an 1185 from that combination.. but with the driver it would be a cake-walk and actually a really nice way to pull off what i was describing with the 2 9-packs of AAs.. (though the AAs would have double the runtime). 

-awr


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## Icebreak (Dec 22, 2005)

Yooper -

Does the beam suck because it is out of focus, no excellent hotspot?

Or does the beam suck because you can see symmetrical filament patterns on each side of the hotspot, sometimes referred to as, batwings, or bowties?

If the former, did you get any shims (thin washers) to dial it in? If not, that's what you need.

If the latter, that's expected and if so, you probably knew that. I don't mind projected filament patterns as much as some folks. I can use the pattern to focus, and center the lamp. Then, if I switch to a PMR (perfect mag reflector), MOP or HOP, the lamp is real close to being perfectly centered already.

The bowties can also be useful for actual torch usage. I line up the lamp's filament with the switch. The spilled bowties are horizontal. If I'm in a tight spot, alley etc., I rotate the torch radially 45 degrees to use the bowtie spill longitudinally.


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## Yooper (Dec 22, 2005)

PlayboyJoeShmoe said:


> Questions Yooper...
> 
> Which bulb had the sucky beam even with a LOP? And could it have been that you couldn't get good focus and centering?
> 
> ...



The 11W ROP was the sucky beam. I haven't tried to focus yet, but it's pretty centered I think. Next step is finding something to shim with - I think this might help a lot. Will report when i get around to it.

EDIT: I picked up the 2D ROP just now and removed the lens. I was able to push down on the bulb's base through the hole in the reflector with an exacto knife and focus the bulb live. I was able to improve the hotspot quite a bit, but not perfect due to filament batwings. Focusing should definitely improve the throw, though. I still want a MOP cammed reflector, though.


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## Icebreak (Dec 22, 2005)

Litho123 might have a few spare shims. LightEdge might have some. If they don't I'll give you a few. I'm out of round tuits right now.


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## Yooper (Dec 22, 2005)

I couldn't find any shims on the light edge site. Is there maybe a specific size washer or bushing or something I can look for at the hardware store? I was thinking maybe a bushing on top of the bulb, under the nut that holds it down... definitely need more round to its though.


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## Icebreak (Dec 22, 2005)

Try emailing or PMing LightEdge, or after the first of the year, Litho123. I'm not a noog. I'd just like for someone with bags of them to help you out cause I've got like 18 of them which isn't that many. But if these guys don't have them I'll send you five of mine no problem.

I'm eyeballing them on a ruler and they look very thin with OD of 13.2mm and and ID of 9mm.

Yes you have the installation correct. Most guys have luck with four or five. I use three usually and sometimes four. The round tuits are purpose priced. A round tuit for help in initiating the cleaning out of the garage is about five bucks. A round tuit for getting a new job, buying a house or proposing marriage are a little more expensive.


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## andrewwynn (Dec 22, 2005)

you can make up shims with anything.. like i said i just used a nut put into the slide hole where the rolling wheel is.. works perfectly... you can find just the right size nut at a hardware store.. not sure about how people use washers. 

with a smooth reflector you'll always have an oblong hot spot.. i use it to my advantage as mentioned by others... a wider than taller beam is much more useful wor walking around.


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## Yooper (Dec 22, 2005)

I'll definitely try a nut in the slot too, but from looking at where this one focuses, that might be too big. I'll PM LightEdge...

thanks guys!


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## andrewwynn (Dec 22, 2005)

not likely too big.. the camless reflector will go down quite a way inside the light! 

-=awr


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## Warhoggie (Dec 22, 2005)

Hey Yooper,
if you really need shims, I have left overs from LightEdge. Send me a PM, and I'll send you some in an envelope. Like Icebreak said, they are very thin, and unlikely you'll be able to find them in a hardware store.




Yooper said:


> I couldn't find any shims on the light edge site. Is there maybe a specific size washer or bushing or something I can look for at the hardware store? I was thinking maybe a bushing on top of the bulb, under the nut that holds it down... definitely need more round to its though.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Dec 22, 2005)

Funny thing about these really bright lights....

A sucky beam don't mean much when lumens are >500

I took my 7AA 1274 2D outside last night to fool around. I could clearly iluminate the trees down at the corner (at least 400 feet). I could light up the trailer next door (250 feet or so) as if it were daytime.

And Bwahahahhhaaa!!! I have a yet brighter light in the 1185!

I only have one LOP reflector. It's on my 85. But I have all the other bulbs centered and focused well, and it helps immensely!!!!

And yes, orienting the bulb east-west makes a more useful beam in many cases.


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## scrappy (Dec 22, 2005)

Hey guys.... I've been following this thread quite closely. I liked the idea, had a 6D mag sitting empty in my closet and decided to do the 1274 7c cell idea. I bought a few potted 1274's, 7 Accupower 6000 mah NiMH batts, glass lens and had a lop FM reflector.... anyway, I just charged the batteries and will when I get home put them in the light...

Are we now saying this is a bad combination...???? I won't do it if my bulb is gonna blow in two seconds. I though alot of people said 7c config with a 1274 was a good thing???

Rich.


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## Lurveleven (Dec 22, 2005)

Most people that have been running the WA1274 on 7 cells have done it with AA cells, which is much kinder to the bulb than C cells. However, I would not it on 7 CBP1650 AA cells, but it may work because the Modamag holder adds some extra resistance.

Sigbjoern


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## scrappy (Dec 22, 2005)

SO now that I got all these pretty costly C cells, what bulb can I run on them in a 6D maglight????


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## andrewwynn (Dec 22, 2005)

hey i just realized... my bet is that those cells are holding on the order of 1.3 to 1.35V.. since you are only pulling on the order of 0.6C.. that puts you at about 9.1 to 9.5V initially.. of course it will drop down to close to 8.4V after enough time but that might be like 30 minutes or more. 

One option as silly as it sounds.. spacer and use SIX for now.. that would get you about the desired 900/600L initially.. but drop down to 550/360L when it settles in. 

You need a KIU kit and a dremel to pull this next one off.. 

The westinghouse 6V 35V lamp.. we've run direct-drive from EIGHT AA CPB.. and i've run it at 8.3V with a regulator.. and HOLY COW it's bright.. calculates to 1770/1150 at 8.19V (bulb). 

the lamp is the 04424.. i think they are pretty cheap.. but use a dremel with a sanding wheel to flatten down the pins or you won't be able to use a WA lamp afterwards.. the pins are 1.3mm dia. and WA lamps are 0.66.. sanding them flat works great to be able to fit either. 

The current is signifigantly higher which will draw the voltage down.. it should be close to nominal voltage fairly quick.. the intersting thing is that with 2000 hr life rating.. even though it's 62% overdrive.. i've never blown one yet. 

I re-rated a bunch of lamps to 9.1 and 9.4 and can't find any other really nice solutions other than the 1274. 

-awr


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## NotRegulated (Dec 22, 2005)

I too have been following this thread. I would like to ROP my Mag6D however...

Am I hearing that the battery/bulb suggestions are not a good match?

I was thinking of implementing the basic ROP parameters of six 1.2v cells and the Pelican Big D Hi/Lo bulbs. The plan is to buy six NIMH D cells and a charger for them and then add the Pelican bulb. Install both into the 6D

Will this definately work? I need to know before I drop $50 on rechargable D batteries and $100 on a charger.


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## Yooper (Dec 22, 2005)

Or just go ROP. A ROP bulb should handle 7 C's. I'm going to find out tonight or tomorrow, as my C's are charging right now, for dropping into my Mag 6D body ROP. I haven't modified the switch yet, though, so I'm sure that will make a difference, plus this is an oooold 6D that is well oxidized all over - will give it the DeOxit/ProGold treatment at some point.

lightedge is sending me some shims.


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## Yooper (Dec 22, 2005)

NotRegulated said:


> The plan is to buy six NIMH D cells and a charger for them and then add the Pelican bulb. Install both into the 6D




My 6D ROP is working fine with brand new alkalines. Your plan should work great. I'm planning on raising the voltage some more by going to 7 rechargeable C's.

The instaflashes that happened above were not ROP bulbs.


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## NotRegulated (Dec 22, 2005)

Yooper said:


> My 6D ROP is working fine with brand new alkalines. Your plan should work great. I'm planning on raising the voltage some more by going to 7 rechargeable C's.
> The instaflashes that happened above were not ROP bulbs.


 
Are you using 6 D cell alkalines?
What bulb are you using alkalines with? The Pelican Big D 3854 Bulb Set (Hi/Lo set) dersigned for the rechargables or the Pelican Big D 3804 Xenon lamp designed for 6 alkalines?


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## scrappy (Dec 23, 2005)

Well I am happy to say that the 1274 with 7 Accupower 6000mah c cells is a success. I let the batts rest for like 8 hours after charging (I was at work so it wasn't voluntary)... came home, dropped in the batts, lit her up and WOW WOW WOW.... my backyard is about an acre and this thing just lit it up.... amazing. I truly love this light... I know I didn't do anything special (hotwiring) but still cutting the pvc and ordering it piecemeal, makes this feel like an accomplishment... The best part is going to be showing the guy who gave me the 6d mag body for free because he didn't have any use for it... I'll bet he asks for it back.

Oh forgot, after I clicked it on and off like 7 times, I figured I would try my FM 3" cammed mag head.... EVEN MORE WOW.... I love it.

Thanks
RIch


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## coldsolderjoint (Dec 23, 2005)

To effectivley get rid of the instaflash risk, how much voltage is needed to "pre-heat" the bulb before you blast it with the full amount of power?


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## Icebreak (Dec 23, 2005)

Scrappy -

It is special and important work. You are reporting a "known good" combination. Congratulations and thank you.

Mag 6D modded to 7C NiMh 6000mah @ WA1274 w/ FM 3" cammed head.

That's a flashlight!


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## scrappy (Dec 23, 2005)

I wouldn't even know how to preheat the bulb so someone else is going to have to answer that. I think mine worked because I still have the stock mag switch in there, so I guess there is enough resistence to protect the bulb and I guess 8 hours of resting time was good, I'm sure it could be a much shorter time, but just couldn't leave work to go try it...

icebreak - thanks for the kind words. You are right though, "THIS IS A FLASHLIGHT". Its got some heft, it just feels good. I have alot of cool 1x123 and 2x123 and aa and aaa lights, a SF M6 and a mag 85, and I love them all, but man you hold a Mag6D in your hands....thats power.....

lol

Rich.


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## Yooper (Dec 23, 2005)

NotRegulated said:


> Are you using 6 D cell alkalines?
> What bulb are you using alkalines with? The Pelican Big D 3854 Bulb Set (Hi/Lo set) dersigned for the rechargables or the Pelican Big D 3804 Xenon lamp designed for 6 alkalines?




Yeah, brand new Energizer D's. I have the 3854 hi/low bulb set. I have not modified the Mag switch, and this is an ooold 6D body with lots of oxidation that I haven't cleaned up yet, so there is probably plenty of resistance. Perhaps once I clean it up and lower the switch resistance the 6D's will instaflash this bulb (I've only tried the 11W low bulb so far). I will definitely report here if anything untoward happens.

This is a great thread - chock full of good info and different options and typical newbie questions - maybe it deserves a sticky or at least a place in a mods faq...


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## andrewwynn (Dec 23, 2005)

Hey.. i came up with a good idea for helping those instaflash problems.. 

the right resistor shorted in place of a tailcap for a couple minutes after a fresh charge might just do the trick.. figure out a good way to hold it so you don't burn your fingers.. but if you drop a volt or two on a 5W resistor of the right resistance you can burn off some of that really high potential. 

-awr


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## coldsolderjoint (Dec 23, 2005)

How is that to get started? 

The three cells would "Preheat" the bulb.. and then after a second, the four would come in and give you all of it, of course, the numbers could be rearranged to 5 and 2 or 6 and 1, but if we are putting int he pvc sleeve, then it should be decently easy to put partitions and contacts in. 

The problem is finding the right switch.


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## andrewwynn (Dec 24, 2005)

i had thought of exactly that idea.. but just wire up that switch to either 7 or 6 cells in the same pack. if the lamp can handle full power just not instantly.. a soft start ckt might be all that is required. 

http://softstart.rouse.com descrbes the circuit evolving from concept to operational prototype. 

-awr


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## coldsolderjoint (Dec 25, 2005)

how does sure fire do it in their Aviator light?


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## Flakey (Dec 26, 2005)

scrappy- 

im glad you have had sucess with you light. but be really carefull with those batteries off of the charger. i rested mine for half an hour and it blew a 1274 ... then i poped in the standard mag bulb and ran it for like 2 minutes thinking that the voltage would have dropped by then... nope blew another one.... when i first fired up my light it was with batteries fresh out of the mail ... and it operated wonderfully probably close to yours with 8H of rest. just a word of warning to you becaus i know that potted 1274s can get pricey after a while =) i am very interested in that 4/3 split idea how could that be wired into the standard mag swich or could it?


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## coldsolderjoint (Dec 28, 2005)

how bout a circuit like this. keep in mind, its mostly block format, and its been a while since i did this.. 






its not a soft start, but more of a step up.. the clock could be made to go real slow. 

But making it small enough to fit in the flashlight while being able to carry the current is going to be the hard part. Also, the voltage drops across components would probably be too great, so the thing would be just as effective as a big resistor inside the light. 

But, it would be pretty cool to watch the mag light up like an old florescent light.

Flakey, im not exaclty sure if the 3/4 idea could be wired into a stock switch.


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## coldsolderjoint (Dec 29, 2005)

ok, after a breif session in my thinking chamber (the shower).. 

i figure that you can get rid of the data selector altogether, and use 6 flip-flops. 

Just feed a constant stream of ones into it.. with the same idea.. I dont know if you would need the and/or circuit for the preset. I'm thinking back to my high school electronics classes, and 6 flip flops came on one chip. So a 555 and a flip flop chip, we are down to two chips alrealdy for the logic part..


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## Flakey (Dec 29, 2005)

here is my current thinking on the subject. Im not sure what is technically frying my bulbs on fresh C's. it is either 

1. the fully charged batteries are making more along the lines of 1.6V a piece not the 1.2 for which they are badged. putting 11.2V into a 7.6V rated bulb.

2. the current is coming on too strong too fast. 8.4V works fine hitting the bulb instantly however my thinking is that even 9V hitting that bulb instantly could induce unsatisfactory results. 

Most likely a combination of the two! 

SO that leaves us where? even if i put a type of soft start or gradual voltage increase swich in the light. on fresh batteries we are still talking about 11.2V (tops) going into that 7.6V bulb; which to me smells like burning filiment, am i wrong? so soft starting for my app may very well leave me in the same position that i am in now except my bulb gradually gets brighter until it explodes ... lol  so, alas i think what i am really looking for here is regulation as that seems to be the only real solution to my Voltage problem. which leaves me to the question, where do i find a 8.4V regulation device OR how do i fabricate an 8.4V regulating circut. i don't have much experiecne with electronics but i am into this stuff and i think i have a nack for it so help me out peeps!


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## coldsolderjoint (Dec 29, 2005)

I think andrew is working very hard on the regulator WITH soft start.. so it may be alittle while, but that seems like it would be the solution to our problems.

thats a very important discovery if your batteries are putting out 1.6 volts a piece. 

what if you swap in an 1166 bulb.. isnt that rated for 11.6 volts?


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## Flakey (Dec 29, 2005)

11.2 volts for the first hour or so fresh off of the charger. NiMH c cells are rated at 1.2V a cell but when they reach peak charge they are at about 1.4-1.6V or so my sources tell me, and opposed to smaller AA and AAA cells C's voltage depreciates much more slowly over time so even resting my cells for 1/2-1 hour after charging can blow a bulb because we are still talking about 9.8V if they have gone from 1.6 a piece to 1.4 over the course of an hour and 9.8V > 7.6Vbulb or so it seems .... lol

as far as andrews work is concerned, it would seem that most of the units to be produced in his limited production run have been spoken for (whell duh! who is going to pass that up?) so that leaves me resting my cells overnight after charging them lol hey its my hot rod light anyway not my EDC so who really cares, but god 900L bulb lumens for 2 hours regulated :: that is really sexy seeing as mine is currently 1200L bulb for the beutifull 1.5 seconds that it functions before exploding ... and then after i get smart and rest the cells 900-500L regulation is just a beutifull thing what can i say? makes me wonder why all surefires arent regulated? cheap *******s! (just kidding!)


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## andrewwynn (Dec 29, 2005)

Only the ones in the hand-made batch are mostly spoken for.. i'm going to make how ever many people want of the hotdriver.. i will order boards in the quantiy of 400-500 or something on the first order.. In addition.. you 'heard it here first'.. i inadvertently invented a new product that i will be likely making at the same time.. putting the regulator into the BATTERY PACK rather than the head (KIU) kit.. you loose some voltage on the switch but if you have a KIU kit already you can adjust the battery voltage to compensate for the loss (i.e. in a 1274 solution at 8.3V.. you'lll loose about 30 mV on just the switch).. setting to 8.33 vs 8.3 at the battery is all it takes to counteract that loss. 

In the case of the 6D using 7Cs.. you'd need the KIU regulator or i'd have to design a special holder for your C cells (which actually would not be too hard to modify the PVC tube to do the trick).. but it would be better to use the KIU regulator. 

Flakey, you def. have nothing to worry about getting one of the first batch of production regulators. 

RE: the multi-transistor solution.. 

Go look at the faaaaar more simple solutions either:

http://hotdriver.rouse.com or http://hot-simple.rouse.com anybody with decent solidering skills could DIY on that simple regulator that's the point of me coming up with it in the first place. It is a neat design because it was re-worked to be able to run 'below' the bulb.. meaning you can put the regulator into the battery pack OR the switch.. (but in the battery pack means you need + voltage to run the ckt.. VERY easy to obtain in one of the modamag holders).

The design keeps chugging along for the hotdriver. just about 100% on the design, so it won't be long before the PCBs are ordered.

-awr



-awr


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## Flakey (Dec 29, 2005)

i would be very interested in buying any hotdriver that you made for driving 1274 at about 8.3-4 V !! that looks like it is above my current wiring expertise but trying to learn lol


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## Flakey (Dec 29, 2005)

today i sanded the type II coating off of the mag74 and color sanded and polished the aluminum MY LORD the differience some 2000grit sandpaper and rubbing compound can make. it looks more like a lightsaber than a flashlight now and it looks nothing like a stock mag which it certinly is not! once my new 1274's come in the mail i will try to get some pics of it up, maybe even some beamshots =)


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## Yooper (Dec 29, 2005)

We need pics of that. Way cool. I've been thinking of painting my 6D ROP.


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## Flakey (Dec 30, 2005)

dude before you paint try polishing =) looks really cool picks coming soon! (not all that hard to do either)


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## Flakey (Dec 30, 2005)

M74: shiny polished =)





the grip turned out really good, picks dont do it credit





next to a 3D for size reference




notice how much more is reflected off of the polished alluminum than the Type II finish?



just for fun and totally off topic this is what is in my pockets these days =)






beamshots coming when i get my fresh 1274's in the mail!


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## Flakey (Dec 30, 2005)

just curious how do i get the images to actually show up in the text?
:huh2:


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## andrewwynn (Dec 30, 2005)

use the tag. put [img] bfore the [url]http://mypicture[/url]... yadda.jpg and another [img] at the end, but the second one needs a / before img (can't put it in or it will try to make an image out of my paragraph. 

-awr


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## winny (Dec 30, 2005)

I don't know if I'm allowed to link to other threads like this, so feel free to delete this...

If you have problems with instaflashing, you might want to look at my brand new, 98+% efficient regulator, currently a part of my flashlight but soon available for purchase.

See here


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## Yooper (Dec 30, 2005)

Like this. Use the little mountain icon, next to the link icon. Looks good, I might have to do this with mine


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## scrappy (Dec 30, 2005)

That is so cool.... I want to do that. What do I do, sand the entire light with 2000 grit sandpaper, then... rubbing compound??? or something else... Help ... please give me a quick rundown of the stuff you used. Thanks. 

Rich


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## Flakey (Dec 30, 2005)

looks way better in person just so you know. pictures dont nearly do the finish justice. i used the mountian icon ... it just put links in ... strange. the process isnt all that hard. you will probably need an electric sander if you dont already have one, which may turn you away from polishing. but if you do have one it makes the job alot eisier. i used 100grit sandpaper on the electric to get all of the anodising off. (get A LOT of the 100 grit sandpaper you will need it) once the anodising is removed i electric sanded again with 220 grit to smooth it out a bit. then 800, then 1500 finally 2000grit. 800, 1500 and 2000 can be found at pepboys as they are commonly used for final sanding before painting and color sanding. at this point the mag is a greyish tube not very shiny at all. then you rub in som 3m rubbing compound (also a pepboys item) and the finish just appears ... beutifull. oh as a side note 800, 1500, and 2000 grit must be wet sanded, meaning grab a bucket and dip the paper in periodically as you sand. so be sure the sandpaper you buy says wet/dry. and there you go! it is a fair amount of work but very worth the results in my opinion as my mag74 now looks almost as unique as its inner workings are. good luck! oh and even if you dicide that you want to paint your light polishing it is a good first step because it gets that yuckky type II off of the light. (black turns purple when you sand it, who knew?) 

as a side note you might want to strip your light down to the tube for this, but putting some pvc pipe on the inside i think helps hold the shape of the tube when i clamped it down. (yes clamping it to a table is ok your going to sand of the part that you scratch anyway.) 

good luck and enjoy i hope you are as happy with your results as i am. reminds me of a lightsaber or somthing =) mag 85 would probably look even more like one!


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## Ty_Bower (Dec 30, 2005)

Wouldn't it be a lot faster to get some weak lye solution to strip off the type 2 anodize, instead of trying to sand it off?

Make sure you keep the lye off your skin. It's not good for you. You'll need some of those heavy duty chemical resistant gloves. Maybe the kind they sell for protecting yourself from oven cleaner and stuff.


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## Yooper (Dec 30, 2005)

Flakey said:


> looks way better in person just so you know. pictures dont nearly do the finish justice. i used the mountian icon ... it just put links in ... strange.




Forgot to tell you - the site you're using puts extra stuff at the end of the URL. I stripped the extra stuff off so the URLs ended in .jpg.


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## Flakey (Dec 30, 2005)

im sure lye would be faster but i really dont like using chemicals really really creeps me out to many things can go wrong. cant hurt myself too bad with sandpaper =)


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## coldsolderjoint (Dec 30, 2005)

do you have plans to do the head and tail cap?


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## Flakey (Dec 30, 2005)

for now i kinda dig the contrast but in the future they may also be polished for one very shiny light =)


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## Flakey (Jan 1, 2006)

GRRR fried another 1274 tonight ... i ran the light after 3 hours of rest on the batteries! .. this light has gobbled up about 4 bulbs now for a total of about 3 hours of runtime LOL i have decided that i wont put another 1274 in the light until i change somthing.


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## KevinL (Jan 1, 2006)

You may have to knock off one cell. Personally, I DON'T like sacrificing bulbs to the incandescent gods, I have already destroyed 3 USL bulbs in the process and I'm quite ticked.


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## andrewwynn (Jan 1, 2006)

I had the same frustration.. the hotdriver was on the 'back burner' til i melted 3 1185s within a week. I will be working on a tiny version of the hotdriver that can be retrofitted into other lights, maybe even the USL just to prevent instalfashing. I run the Mag100 at 13.1 to 13.2V and i think it can actually handle a bit more but no need. Flakey, try running on 6 batts for now 'til you can get a regulator in there. if you are handy with electronics.. the complete circuit for a simple voltage regulator is here: http://hot-simple.rouse.com Would only cost like $5 to build one.

-awr


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Jan 1, 2006)

That diagram goes WAY over my head kinda like the Space Station!!!

I must be lucky with stock resistence and all, because my bulbs have hung in there.

I guess it'll be nice whan regulation hits the mainstream of Incandescent lights.


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## Flakey (Jan 2, 2006)

if you had a link to site that could tell me what the varrious abreveations on that mean im sure i could figure it out. once i get the vocab down this stuff is right up my alley.


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## Flakey (Jan 4, 2006)

Hurray for beamshots!!!


Left SF C3: centurian right mag74 =)







Batterypack and charger =)





swisscheese effect is for battery ventilation during charging =)

enjoy=)


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## Warhoggie (Jan 11, 2006)

I never fail to find some humor here...Thanks!



KevinL said:


> I DON'T like sacrificing bulbs to the incandescent gods...


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## andrewwynn (Jan 28, 2006)

Hey... did the W35 take the punishment? (or did you not get it yet?). 

-awr


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## markdi (Jan 28, 2006)

a 7 or 8 amp hour nimh c cell

where can I buy some ?


I do not think they exsist.


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## andrewwynn (Jan 28, 2006)

i believe they cells are like 5.1AH that Flakey is using.

-awr


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## Flakey (Jan 28, 2006)

while modding the reflector to fit the bigger bulb i shattered the glass on the 35W DOH! so now i have to wait for more


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## andrewwynn (Jan 28, 2006)

did you get the reflector bored out? i just did that to my Mag100 reflector last night.. so awesome! 
-awr


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## Flakey (Jan 29, 2006)

andrewwynn said:


> did you get the reflector bored out? i just did that to my Mag100 reflector last night.. so awesome!
> -awr



yeah i got it bored after i broke the bulb ... lol


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## andrewwynn (Jan 29, 2006)

did you get to light it up first? would be a shame if you didn't.. also.. check out the pins on that bulb to see how i sanded them down.. you will want to do that with your new ones.. do you have a dremel? 

-awr


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## Flakey (Jan 29, 2006)

negitive no dremmel. i got it to light up but not with a reflector soo... yeah


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