# Able to tell if a Surefire is waterproof or not?



## Sw1tch (Jan 7, 2009)

I recently purchased a used Surefire A2 off eBay, and absolutely love it. It's one of the older 4 sided models, and I know SF confirmed their lights waterproof after a certain point but I cannot figure out if this one is or not.

Is there a way to tell if the one I purchased is waterproof based off features or the serial number?


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## Carpenter (Jan 7, 2009)

[SureFire never confirmed any A2 to be waterproof. Only 1 model of 6P I believe that is only "certified" until you have to replace the batteries.

BTW - :welcome:


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## matt0 (Jan 7, 2009)

As far as I know, SureFire have never rated their lights as waterproof (with the exception of a select few models such as 6PN and perhaps some others).

It is likely water-_resistant _in that it will function properly in rain and should survive a brief dunk underwater but they are not made nor intended for use underwater.


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## Sw1tch (Jan 7, 2009)

Thanks for the quick replies (and the welcome) I find myself around lakes/rivers a lot and wanted to be sure I could at least be sure I won't be left in the dark if it falls in or gets wet from the rain. Now I know.


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## Armed_Forces (Jan 7, 2009)

I would suggest using the search feature to get up to speed on what qualifies as "waterproof" in regards to Surefire and all other flashlights. This is a frequent topic that comes up and much has been written.


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## D-Dog (Jan 7, 2009)

I know what the OP is referring to... most likely this statement on flashlightreviews.com:

Note that Surefire has affirmed that all *current* Surefire lights should be waterproof to about 33 feet/10 meters. Some reviews were posted before Surefire made the affirmation that their lights were watertight to 1 atmosphere depth. Any new Surefire lights you purchase now should be considered waterproof to 33 feet/10 meters.

However, it appears this was not an official statement and thus should be taken with a grain of salt :-(


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## Sgt. LED (Jan 7, 2009)

Most likley your A2 will be able to handle being in a good shower but I do not reccomend immersion. New O-rings and lube will certainly help!

The A2 electronics will survive if water gets into the light but the reflector and lens will not be what it once was, if that happens Surefire will swap out your old head for a new one.


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## Kiessling (Jan 7, 2009)

The change in definition of "waterproof" and "water resistant" and those terms is rather recent IMHO, or the flashlightworld discovered it recently, meaning a few years back.

I remember the confusion, and confusion there still is. Looknig up the exact terms is important if this feature is critical for you, and checking with current manufacturer data or asking them directly can be of help too, since you never know which definition was used in an old document.

bernie


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## mossyoak (Jan 7, 2009)

i have never had any issue with any surefire in water, including an old g2 with the non lock out tailcap being used underwater.


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## cfromc (Jan 7, 2009)

Sw1tch said:


> Thanks for the quick replies (and the welcome) I find myself around lakes/rivers a lot and wanted to be sure I could at least be sure I won't be left in the dark if it falls in or gets wet from the rain. Now I know.


 
I put two G2s in a cup of water where the tip of the light was actually out of the water. One leaked (internally) what I consider a lot within a short period of time and the other pretty much stayed dry after several minutes. Personally, if I wanted to have a good level of assurance that a particular light would not allow water into it, I would take the light in question and put it underwater for a while to see what happens. The ones I tested had the batteries and lamp modules removed to avoid the chance of a short. I would say most SureFire lights would survive rain or even a very quick drop into a puddle, but for more than a couple seconds under water I could not make that blanket statement.


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## flashfan (Jan 7, 2009)

No personal experience with SF lights being waterproof, but I would _guess_ that many/most probably survive dunkings.

However, if waterproof is crucial, you might want to take a look at _dive_ lights from Underwater Kinetics, Princeton Tec and/or Pelican.


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## Size15's (Jan 7, 2009)

I would not be so quick to judge the diverse range of SureFire products based on just G2's. I would consider these perhaps the least able to hold back the water.
The 6P and other standard sized SureFires are a whole different matter. I would not hesitate to submerge my 6P whereas I would prefer not to need to submerge a G2.
Then there's the E-Series and associated models such as the L1 and A2 that have the PocketClip attachment point requiring a widget under the PocketClip to prevent the 0-ring seal from bulging out.
There's also the issue of sufficiently sealing the two-stage pressure switch threads due to the amount of use the 'twist' design has [compared to a Clickie switch]
Waterproofing is not simple at all.


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## carrot (Jan 7, 2009)

I have never had a problem with my A2 and water. I suggest you will not either.


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## Size15's (Jan 7, 2009)

carrot said:


> I have never had a problem with my A2 and water. I suggest you will not either.


Whilst I believe the various bezel seals are capable under good conditions, my A2's TailCap o-ring receives significant wear and accumulation of dust and general crud as a result of it being rotated lots and lots and being carried in pockets etc. I am not that confident it can withstand any obvious depth of water, or prolonged duration submerged. I guess I could change out the o-ring far more often if seal integrity submerged was a vital functional requirement in my usage.


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## Armed_Forces (Jan 7, 2009)

I would be far more worried about the ingress of water past the tailcap switch cover than via the O-ring but I keep mine in good condition. i.e. cleaned & lubricated. As a matter of fact I just run water over the entire light to clean it when it really gets dirty/gunked up. I've done this thousands of times throughout the years and haven't had one "failure".  

..the real compromise of the Surefire tailcaps, whether twisty or clicky, is their _use while submerged._ Being a non-dive rated light, this shouldn't be a "problem" but anyone foolish enough to go twisting and clicking while doing their Jacques Cousteau impersonation deserves what they get.


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## Kiessling (Jan 7, 2009)

You could also clean your pockets more often, bro. 


EDIT: should start with "Al ..."


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## Armed_Forces (Jan 7, 2009)

who???


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## Size15's (Jan 7, 2009)

Kiessling said:


> You could also clean your pockets more often, bro.


I like to be surprised by what I might find :shrug:


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## cfromc (Jan 7, 2009)

Size15's said:


> I would not be so quick to judge the diverse range of SureFire products based on just G2's. I would consider these perhaps the least able to hold back the water.


 
I agree. I'm just saying, _any_ light that is expected to be used in or around water should be checked instead of _assuming_ it will work.


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## Size15's (Jan 8, 2009)

cfromc said:


> I agree. I'm just saying, _any_ light that is expected to be used in or around water should be checked instead of _assuming_ it will work.


That's exactly right - even rated waterproof devices should be carefully cared for and checked & tested in a non-critical 'dry run' (sic) before being relied on for real. Same goes for all kit and people IMHO. If you can't depend on it in realistic training you can't really depend on it for real.


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## AlecGold (Jan 8, 2009)

IRC there where Special Ops lights that where special made and had extra o-rings and where tested for special operation teams to specific depths. I believe up to 40 meters or 120 feet. Happy consumers could order them as well, but it was a special order and could take some serious time. 

All regular lights are water resistant, or perhaps more weather resistant, but I have to admit I have 6P and what was it, I guess an A2, that I had on my body and pack when I crossed a river, swimming. And that without problems. Several times. Did it with a McGizmo Ti as well. Nice stuff. One thing you DON'T want to do is take a really hot light and dunk it in the water. The hot air inside will cool, creating a vacuum. Together with the water pressure on the outside and the vacuum inside is a guarantee to get the insides wet and not functioning anymore. But cool or cold lights? Haven't had a problem with them yet. Swimming isn't diving, but I thought it was pretty decent performance. 

Edit: a bit of searching showed me on the SureFire website that the X300 is 22 meters waterproof. Not bad...
http://www.surefire.com/maxexp/main...=6&prrfnbr=24462&sesent=0,0&search_id=1211455


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## Superdave (Jan 8, 2009)

My A2 took on water after being submerged but suffered no real damage as a result. There was a little white residue in the reflector but a 90 degree bent dry, clean Qtip took care of that. I was going to send it in to SF to get the head replaced but never got around to it. All my orings are good/lubed as well. 



All of my other SF lights have been submerged to several feet w/o problems.


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## AlecGold (Jan 8, 2009)

Now I'm wondering what the other light that I had with me was. I still think an A2, I know I had one at the time, but I'm not sure. 
But the 6P was on of the first, with California on the back around the clickie, that wasn't a clicky, but a rubber hat with a solid piece of aluminium behind it for making contact. And still it was water tight. OTH there wasn't much to destroy: the batteries would need to be replaced and the lamp assambly if it was dirty, but what else could get stuck? No electronics 
I still have that light, but it has now a Turbo reflector. That is one nice super throwing light with only 65 lumens!!!!


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## rtt (Jan 8, 2009)

I looked in my SF box of parts and found a Model Z41 tailcap still in the sealed plastic bag. On the Users Manual it states the following " *Model Z41 Waterproof tail cap for flashlights*".

I was wondering if all Z41 tailcaps have a membrane to make the tailcaps waterproof or are there waterproof and non-waterproof versions of the Z41???

I have looked at some current Z41 tailcaps and compared it the Z41 tailcap that on the package states waterproof but could not see any difference between them. Anyone know for sure???


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## Size15's (Jan 8, 2009)

SureFire LockOut TailCaps are sealed so they are 'waterproof'.
The Z41 was originally labelled as such because the Z40 wasn't sealed.
The Z40 was quickly withdrawn so there was no need to label the Z41 as waterproof.

In the olden days there was the Z14 TailCap that didn't lockout, and wasn't sealed. And the Z23 that didn't lockout but was 'Diaphragm Sealed' waterproof.
And then was the Z31 which has the now normal raised, knurled rubber switch boot rather than the more flush, perhaps even originally smooth (like the 9N) rubber switch boot of the Z14.
Difficult to know for sure since no specific photo of the Z14 is available (AFAIK)


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## rtt (Jan 8, 2009)

Size15's....Thank you for the definitive answer to my question. Looking through the SF parts box brought back many fond memories of various SF lego lights I had in the past.


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## greenLED (Jan 8, 2009)

For those of you using those delrin rings in the L1/A2 tailcaps... the threads on those may not bottom completely against the switch' rubber boot, which allows water to easily seep into the light.


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## danpass (Jan 13, 2009)

it would be pretty dumb for a marketer of "tactical" flashlights to not have some effective water resistance in their lights, at least 3feet ya know ..."dunkable".


yet the original G2 ...... 


looking forward to my new-to-me A2 being "dunkable" (just in case).


where can one get replacement o-rings and lube for surefire lights? their website doesn't seem to have it.


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## Size15's (Jan 13, 2009)

danpass said:


> where can one get replacement o-rings and lube for surefire lights? their website doesn't seem to have it.


Just give SureFire a call!


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## Illum (Jan 13, 2009)

Sw1tch said:


> I recently purchased a used Surefire A2 off eBay, and absolutely love it. It's one of the older 4 sided models, and I know SF confirmed their lights waterproof after a certain point but I cannot figure out if this one is or not.
> 
> Is there a way to tell if the one I purchased is waterproof based off features or the serial number?


 

The only way I know of is to dunk it in and see if it burps...
Some folks here, like Craig Johnson [Aka The_LED_Museum] utilizes a suction test to determine whether the flashlight is airtight.

Prior to the dunking, verify the following visual checks
O-rings are not damaged: in one piece, not flaking, no swelling is detected.
O-rings are lubricated both bottom and top, along with the threads
Areas that are not user accessible is snug and not loose. 

Surefire guarantees that their flashlights are waterproof to 33feet/10 meters, what they fail to mention [or occaisionally emphasize] is the shelf life of flashlights before the standard cannot be guaranteed, due to the aging of waterproofing components and seals. :sigh:

Lighthound offers replacement O-ring for surefires and lube
O-Ring - SureFire A / L Series Tailcap o-ring
O-Ring - SureFire C / M Tailcap
O-Ring - SureFire C Bezel
O-Ring - SureFire E Series Bezel
O-Ring - SureFire E Series Tailcap
O-Ring - SureFire M Bezel

In the past several Emails concerning lube was fowarded to surefire from folks here and apparently nyogel is what surefire prefers.
Lighthound has 760G and 779ZC available on their website, 759G is no longer available. regarding the difference between the two, read this excerpt quoted from Liththound's site



Lighthound said:


> NyoGel® 760G is a silica thickened, medium viscosity, synthetic hydrocarbon grease for lubrication and protection of tin-lead electrical connectors. Benefits include good water resistance. By preventing environmental and fretting corrosion, it extends the life of electrical contacts. We recommend this grease for use on the threads of all aluminum-bodied flashlights. NyoGel® 760G is a relatively "thin" grease and rated for -40°C to 135°C temperature ranges. Note that NyoGel® 760G is not conductive, but it was designed for lubricating surfaces that are conductive.
> NyoGel® 760G lubricant for surfaces of electrical contacts - EXCELLENT for SureFire® Flashlights. This is the lubricant that is recommended for all metal-bodied flashlights, including SureFire®, Fenix, StreamLight® and Maglight® Flashlights
> NyoGel® 779ZC is silica thickened, light viscosity, synthetic hydrocarbon grease intended for mechanical components. It contains special additives for reducing wear of aluminum surfaces. NyoGel® 779ZC is a thicker grease that has a higher level of damping and water protection than NyoGel® 759G. It is rated for temperatures from -20°C to 125°C. It works well in the connection between the o-rings and the bezel and tailcap on the flashlights. It also works great on Nitrolon-bodied flashlights like the G2, G2Z and 8NX.


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## danpass (Jan 13, 2009)

Size15's said:


> Just give SureFire a call!



this is a no-logic zone!



edit:

Well ..... I tried to buy a set of o-rings for the A2 as well as three G2s I have.



They don't sell them ................. but they are sending replacements for all my lights free of charge lol



By the way: SF uses Nyogel 760 as thread/o-ring lube.


.


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## TITAN1833 (Jan 13, 2009)

unless the light is certified dive rated I would suggest it is more water resistant i.e able to take light showers of rain and maybe dunkable,but I would air on the side of caution when dunking old lights


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## danpass (Jan 13, 2009)

...


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## carrot (Jan 13, 2009)

Even if water comes into the G2, will it still work and function properly? My guess is yes, it will work 100%. To me, that's what a tactical light is about. If it still works when things go wrong, who cares if a little water gets inside?


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## danpass (Jan 13, 2009)

carrot said:


> Even if water comes into the G2, will it still work and function properly? My guess is yes, it will work 100%. To me, that's what a tactical light is about. If it still works when things go wrong, who cares if a little water gets inside?


 

Many of our troops use SFs. I know some SF gear is issued but most is personally owned.

I don't expect our troops to baby their equipment and neither do I expect them to have to treat their lights as disposable as would be the case if they got wet inside and had to remain that way for some time (for whatever reason).


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## Mjolnir (Jan 13, 2009)

Some non dive lights claim to pass the IPX8 standard, which means:
"The equipment is suitable for continuous immersion in water under conditions which shall be specified by the manufacturer." (from Wikipedia). My eagletac light claims to be IPX8, and the manufacturer says that it is "dunkable in two feet of water for up to 10 hours." It definitely is not a dive light, but it is apparently fully waterproof.
I am sort of surprised that surefires aren't guaranteed waterproof, since they cost a lot more than other lights. I would expect them to be MORE durable (and waterproof) than my 70 dollar light, not less. 
I would think that surefire wouldn't keep quiet if their lights were completely waterproof, as it would be one more thing they could advertise. The fact that they don't seems to indicate to me that they haven't passed any sort of standard (this doesn't mean that they AREN'T waterproof, they could very well be). 
Or, surefire could just be incredibly modest. However, I doubt that.


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## jayhackett03 (Jan 14, 2009)

carrot said:


> Even if water comes into the G2, will it still work and function properly? My guess is yes, it will work 100%. To me, that's what a tactical light is about. If it still works when things go wrong, who cares if a little water gets inside?



i twisted my G2 tailcap underwater, got water in the tailcap, and caused it not to work. Surefire sent me a new one though.


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## matt0 (Jan 14, 2009)

I was browsing around the SF website and was reading the description on the G2Z-NRA and saw this:


> *G2Z-NRA*
> 
> Constructed of Nitrolon®, a corrosion-proof proprietary polymer that absorbs shock more efficiently than aluminum, the new G2Z shares all of the features of the best-selling Z2 CombatLight®, yet is lighter and *more water-resistant.*







I wonder if there is any truth to that. I know of a few reports here on CPF of G2's leaking so who knows...


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## Size15's (Jan 14, 2009)

The G2Z has a different TailCap so the fit and seal could well be nominally better...


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## danpass (Jan 14, 2009)

matt0 said:


> I was browsing around the SF website and was reading the description on the G2Z-NRA and saw this:
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if there is any truth to that. I know of a few reports here on CPF of G2's leaking so who knows...



the G2 tailcap is nearly worthless in terms of water resistance UNLESS you cinch it down tight all the way (which of course leaves the light on).

I'm talking about immersion though, 1-3ft, though a heavy rain would do it too.


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## AlecGold (Jan 14, 2009)

Mjolnir said:


> Or, surefire could just be incredibly modest. However, I doubt that.



In my experience, SF has been very modest in the past, when they claim 80 lumens, you can bet it does at least 80 lumens, but could typical be up to 90 or even have an outperformer that does 100. Also with timing the useful lights, they tend to tell the minimum. 
It's an unusual practice, but since buying my first Laser Products (now some 15 years ago i think?!) they have never let me down. Not in product, not in service. 
They build the lights tough, they design them to last and my guess is that most users will never wear it down (beside military/LEO abuse). 
I've had several lights with me on river crossings, swimming, pouring rain, snow and every bit of mud on the island I live on (and we have some very nice thick hefty clay) but I never had a light break during use. A friend of mine had an E1e crushed a bit after driving his car over the battery tube, oddly enough it did still work. Just the battery replacement was such a pain .


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## spts (May 1, 2009)

Illum said:


> The only way I know of is to dunk it in and see if it burps...
> Some folks here, like Craig Johnson [Aka The_LED_Museum] utilizes a suction test to determine whether the flashlight is airtight.
> 
> Prior to the dunking, verify the following visual checks
> ...


 called surefire and they in no way guarantee waterproof lights. where did you get this info?


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## Kestrel (May 1, 2009)

spts said:


> called surefire and they in no way guarantee waterproof lights. where did you get this info?


The post you cited sounds like previously-discussed erroneous information from FlashlightReviews.com (an older review site that hasn't been updated for the last ~2 yrs). It comes up every now and again.


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## nzgunnie (May 2, 2009)

I took my G2 caving a few weeks ago and it took a dunking in a few cm of water. 

I was careful not to turn the tail cap until I was able to dry it off, and there was luckily no water inside.

I wouldn't trust it to withstand much more that that quick dunking though.


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## Size15's (May 2, 2009)

The G2/G2L are the least water-tight of SureFire's non-rechargeable models in my experience. The TailCap is often pretty sloppy.

All-metal non-rechargeable standard-sized SureFires are designed to be capable of being tested and rated waterproof to 33 metres by SureFire.

The E-Series and the likes of the A2, L1, L2 SureFires are not designed to be subjected to such depths and usually perform well at the highly water-resistant brief dunking activities.


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## DuckhunterInTN (May 26, 2009)

I thought a link to this thread might help as far as determining whether the A2 is waterproof...or at least explain my experiences concerning the subject.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/209342&highlight=waterproof


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## RobertM (May 26, 2009)

Since we are talking about SureFire weather resistance...

I was looking on Lighthound at the o-rings and they mention, "...this does not always work well with the G2 and G2z, but works GREAT with all of the other lights listed above." What's the deal?

I was planning on adding an extra o-ring to the bezel and tailcap of my G3 to make it more weather resistant.

One other thing...do SureFires ever tend to have issues with water coming in through the bezel lens o-ring or through the rubber switch on the tailcap?

Thanks,
Robert


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## Size15's (May 26, 2009)

RobertM said:


> Since we are talking about SureFire weather resistance...
> 
> I was looking on Lighthound at the o-rings and they mention, "...this does not always work well with the G2 and G2z, but works GREAT with all of the other lights listed above." What's the deal?


The G2 especially was never designed to have two o-rings on the TailCap end of the body and therefore one may not expect every G2 to be manufactured such that adding an aftermarket o-ring will create a water-tight seal.
The G2Z and G3 being more modern designs have generally tighter tolerances - the TailCaps tend to have less of a wiggle indicating the o-rings are filling the gap and creating a more weather-proof seal.
Since there are subtle differences in the design of the G2/G2L, G2Z and G3 bodies and TailCaps one can not assume a 2nd o-ring will be ideal for all three bodies.



RobertM said:


> I was planning on adding an extra o-ring to the bezel and tailcap of my G3 to make it more weather resistant.


If the TailCap is harder to rotate after adding a 2nd o-ring then I believe it is reasonable to expect a more weather-resistant seal as a result.



RobertM said:


> One other thing...do SureFires ever tend to have issues with water coming in through the bezel lens o-ring or through the rubber switch on the tailcap?


The window seal used by SureFires is a gasket with a trapezoid cross-section I believe. This type of seal is reliable and less prone to being incorrectly installed during assembly.

The TailCap push button rubber boot is glued in and I believe 'clamped' with a screw-in retaining ring. It is also very reliable.

O-ring(s) on the TailCap-end of the body are susceptable to being worn and damaged. TailCaps are designed to be rotated and o-rings don't last as long under those conditions - especially where dust and other crud is able to contaminate.

In my experience either bezel window seals & TailCap switch boot seals are good, or in very rare cases not.
O-ring seals for the body/TailCap are usually good but are often degraded by use and perhaps lack of sufficient maintenance.

Al


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## Sgt. LED (May 26, 2009)

My stock yellow G2 only let in water when I un-twisted the tailcap underwater. Twisting it on seemed to be OK. The suction created from backing out the tailcap from the on position must be the culprit.

I added another random O-ring to the tailcap and the twist action felt loads more improved however water still got in, but it was less water.
I installed a clicky switch from NetKidz and repeated the 2 o-ring test. No water got in clicking it and again some small amount got in while un-screwing. Seemed to be less so than the previous 2 o-ring test but it was random chance as the factory boot was well glued.
No water ever entered the bezel via either the lens or head o-ring. I checked both before and after I installed a UCL lens.


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## RobertM (May 26, 2009)

Size15's said:


> The G2 especially was never designed to have two o-rings on the TailCap end of the body and therefore one may not expect every G2 to be manufactured such that adding an aftermarket o-ring will create a water-tight seal.
> The G2Z and G3 being more modern designs have generally tighter tolerances - the TailCaps tend to have less of a wiggle indicating the o-rings are filling the gap and creating a more weather-proof seal.
> Since there are subtle differences in the design of the G2/G2L, G2Z and G3 bodies and TailCaps one can not assume a 2nd o-ring will be ideal for all three bodies.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the info Al, it really helps a lot! I think I'll probably go ahead and get some more o-rings for my G3. My G3 with P90/2x17500/Z33 has become my go-to, all purpose, and now hopefully all-weather, work-horse light 

Thanks again,
Robert


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## GPB (May 26, 2009)

The problem with waterproof standards is they are static tests. That means the light doesn't move at all, and no one ever uses a light like that. If you move a light underwater you are creating a greater amount of pressure on the light. If waterproof is important, get a dive light. You certainly don't want to be in a critical situation and discover that IPX8 doesn't cover whatever you have to do. 

Think of weather proof lights like your car. It stays dry in the rain, and can drive through about a foot of water, but you can't intentionally completely submerge it and expect it to work.


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## billybobjim (Jul 18, 2011)

I DID THE GUTSY THING AND DIVED WITH MY SUREFIRE E2D LED DEFENDER AND I CAN SAY WITH THE UTMOST CERTAINTY AND HONESTY THAT IT IS IN-FACT WATERPROOF UP TO AT LEAST 13 FEET. IT WORKS INCREDIBLY WELL UNDERWATER SHOWING FISH AND CRABS THAT YOU NEVER WOULD HAVE THOUGHT TO SEE WITHOUT SUCH A BRIGHT LIGHT
and now because i think it is funny, :tired::scowl::duh2:


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## ebow86 (Jul 18, 2011)

As far as surefire's LEAST waterproof flashlight, I think I have to give that one to the 10X Dominator. I wouldn't trust my 10X in light rain.


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## AaronCoady (Jul 20, 2011)

I have dropped my G2's in water multiple times and never had a problem....that would be the extent of my experiments on the subject


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## jh333233 (Jul 20, 2011)

Simple enough...
Just put it into a pool for a night and see if it still works on next day =P
Now the real one:
So far 6N is the ONLY waterproof-tested
But with SF's quality and assuming you have been maintaining the o-ring, tightening the bezel ring
shallow water in short period should be fine


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## Size15's (Jul 20, 2011)

jh333233 said:


> So far 6N is the ONLY waterproof-tested


I assume you mean "6PN"
BTW, there have been plenty of other "N-Certified" models over the years. Normally produced for specific military or leo order and only available through dealer(s) if there is overstock. One or two M3N found their way onto the market like that.


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## desert.snake (Feb 18, 2018)

Hello friends!
I'm having a small problem.
Today with my L4 (KL4 head, 170 lm) worked in the basement,
I put it to light up the workspace. Half an hour later I finished the case
and picked up a flashlight, he was so hot that I burned my hand,
not much, but unpleasant. To go further, I need light,
but I can not keep it long time. Then I took a bottle of mineral water
and watered a flashlight. He cooled down and I got out. After a while,
I noticed that inside the reflector there is a fog that turns into droplets of water.
It does not affect his work or the shape of the beam, but I want to drain it
without interference in the design, so as not to lose the warranty.
Which way will be more suitable?


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