# Fenner Drives Link Belts



## Mirage_Man (Apr 9, 2009)

I thought I'd start a new thread for the those of us that are using the Fenner Drives or other branded link type belts on our machines. I just ordered some for myself and a couple other forum members using belt driven milling machines.

Based on what I could gather the 5/8" wide belting was what was the replacement for the RF31 style machine we're using. So that's what I ordered. The box arrived today.

I am however having an issue. The belt rides higher in the grooves of the pulley than the standard belt. Because of that as the machine runs the belt slaps the column. I know Mac said his did that when he installed his link belts but for some reason, and I can't remember why it doesn't now.

If anyone has any tips it would be appreciated.

Edit: It was a matter of shortening the spindle belt one link which brought the center pulley out enough to clear the column.


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## gadget_lover (Apr 10, 2009)

Mirage_Man said:


> If anyone has any tips it would be appreciated.



Is it possible that the belt is a little longer or shorter than the original? I can envision a situation where a different length belt will have your motor pivoted out (or in) so that the idler pulley changes location.

Luckily, you can add or remove a link easily AND put it back. 


I used "Powertwist" link belts bought at "Woodworks" for my mill, and used the leftover (with the purchase of a 1 foot add-on) for my band-saw. They both run much smoother.


Daniel


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## StrikerDown (Apr 10, 2009)

Brian,
 
I noticed that the front belt on my mill is closer to the column than the rear. I wonder if you can shorten the front belt and lengthen the rear. I am thinking that it might move the center pulley to the front and allow more clearance.
 
Ray


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## darkzero (Apr 10, 2009)

Ive also read that the Fenner Drive belts ride high on the pulley but for me it doesn't really sit that much higher than my original belt. Then again, I'm pretty much using the smallest size they have.

Have you measured the actual width of you original belt? The belt on mine was metric (0-710) & I couldn't find any conversions. I read that metric belts have a bit different profile & there really isn't an actual conversion to US. I asked Will if he remembered the belt size he used since he had it on his. He thought he remembered it was 4L/A but wasn't for sure since he no longer had the HF 8x14. I didn't want to risk it so I measured the width across the top & ordered the size using this page for reference: http://www.gizmology.net/pulleysbelts.htm

This is the only pic I have right now but if you look closely I don't think it rides that much more higher than my original belt. I know your belt is a couple of sizes up but I suppose it might be some bit of reference?








I love the belt, I find that it's noisy if not tensioned enough, & louder when spinning in reverse. Then again it's not recommended to be driven in reverse.

EDIT: Oops, nevermind, didn't see "mill".


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## StrikerDown (Apr 10, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> Brian,
> 
> I noticed that the front belt on my mill is closer to the column than the rear. I wonder if you can shorten the front belt and lengthen the rear. I am thinking that it might move the center pulley to the front and allow more clearance.
> 
> Ray


 
Brian,

I just checked my mill and that should work, If you loosen the center (Idler) pulley and pull the front belt shorter it moves the center pulley towards the front and centers it better on the column leaving plenty of clearance both front and rear. 1 or 2 less links on the front and the same added to the rear should do it.

PS: How many feet of belt do we need?


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## Tekno_Cowboy (Apr 10, 2009)

darkzero said:


>



How do you keep your gears clean? Mine keep getting covered in black grease/oil.


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## DonShock (Apr 10, 2009)

darkzero said:


> ......I asked Will if he remembered the belt size he used since he had it on his. He thought he remembered it was 4L/A but wasn't for sure since he no longer had the HF 8x14.........


I bought Will's HF 8x14. I'll try to remember to take a look at the belt size when I get home in the morning and post it here.


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## Mirage_Man (Apr 10, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> Brian,
> 
> I just checked my mill and that should work, If you loosen the center (Idler) pulley and pull the front belt shorter it moves the center pulley towards the front and centers it better on the column leaving plenty of clearance both front and rear. 1 or 2 less links on the front and the same added to the rear should do it.
> 
> PS: How many feet of belt do we need?



I figured out that I needed to remove a link on the belt that drives the spindle and that did the trick. I've spent the last hour or so playing with the infinitely quieter, smother running mill. :thumbsup: There's definitely a _noticeable_ difference. There's just one caveat. When there's a belt in the top position of the center pulley you can't close the lid. Because the belt rides higher in the pulleys it rubs on the inside of it. So you will have to either run the mill with the lid open when in that position or cut a small portion of the inside of the lid out to close it. I'll just run it with the lid open when I need to. 

I'll take some pictures tomorrow when I have some more energy. I need to get to bed. 

As to the length? I'm not certain but there's definitely enough for 3 machines. I will take the belts off tomorrow if I get a chance and count the links (and measure).


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## StrikerDown (Apr 10, 2009)

Check if adjusting the belt length might move the idler pulley to where it won't rub. Possibly if you get it centered in the peak of the angle of the cover on the right side.

Back to the smoother mill... Did you notice if the quality of the cut is improved?


Getting anxious... let me know how much and where to send it!


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## Mirage_Man (Apr 10, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> Check if adjusting the belt length might move the idler pulley to where it won't rub. Possibly if you get it centered in the peak of the angle of the cover on the right side.


 
I suppose I could mess with it some more but I just don't have the energy right now. Even if it can't be accomplished I really don't think it's a big deal.



StrikerDown said:


> Back to the smoother mill... Did you notice if the quality of the cut is improved?


 
Short answer... Yes .




StrikerDown said:


> Getting anxious... let me know how much and where to send it!



Send me your zip code and when I figure out how much the shipping is I'll let you know.


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## precisionworks (Apr 10, 2009)

> cut a small portion of the inside of the lid out to close it.


That's exactly what I did to mine, although the front latch is the only one I normally snap shut.



> infinitely quieter, smother running mill.


I knew you'd like them. My first Power Twist belts were purchased before Al Gore invented the internet, and went on the Delta 12" disc / 6" belt sander. That machine vibrated like a washing machine on high spin, but those belts cut the vibration in half or more. They were next installed on the table saw & band saw, with the same effect.

New belts are really stiff, and will break in over time (just like a conventional V belt). You'll want to recheck belt tension after running for the first hour or so, and keep an eye on it for a few weeks. Since the mill belt gets moved frequently, you'll notice when it gets "too easy" to move.

If you do need to add or remove a link, a pair of long nose pliers makes it easy to do.


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## DonShock (Apr 10, 2009)

DarkZero: The belt that Will had installed on the HF I bought from him is marked as follows:

6007 Fenner Drives Powerwist Plus A


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## wquiles (Apr 10, 2009)

Glad to see others are also using these GREAT belts - I use them in my old 8x, my current HF metal bandsaw, and in my PM12x36 lathe (uses two belts in parallel). I will be getting one for my knee mill shortly as well, specially now that I finally got the gibs adjusted properly 

Will


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## StrikerDown (Apr 10, 2009)

Mirage_Man said:


> Short answer... Yes .
> 
> Excellent! That is what I'm hoping for.
> 
> ...



PM sent.

Edit:

Brian,

If you want I can send you a UPS return shipping label with the check that way you can just give the package to the nearest UPS store or truck driver already pre paid. I just need to know the shipping weight.


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## darkzero (Apr 11, 2009)

DonShock said:


> DarkZero: The belt that Will had installed on the HF I bought from him is marked as follows:
> 
> 6007 Fenner Drives Powerwist Plus A


 
Thanks for sharing that info Don. I'm using a different one.


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## StrikerDown (Apr 11, 2009)

Brian,


Thanks again!


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## wquiles (Apr 11, 2009)

Brian,

Today, I just make some chips for the first time in my knee mill - the machine cuts great!. I checked the belts, and they are the B size, and the front and back ones measure 5/8" in width, so I guess the belts that you got would work in my knee mill as well.

















What was the size you got again?

Will


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## darkzero (Apr 11, 2009)

wquiles said:


> Brian,
> 
> Today, I just make some chips for the first time in my knee mill - the machine cuts great!. I checked the belts, and they are the B size, and the front and back ones measure 5/8" in width, so I guess the belts that you got would work in my knee mill as well.
> 
> ...


 
B/5L-Section PowerTwist Plus V-Belt 6' - Part Number: 0418050SL $57.09

B/5L-Section PowerTwist Plus V-Belt 25' - Part Number: 0405050 $215.75

At http://www.fennerdrives.com/shop/

I got mine from Sulphur Grove Tool on ebay. They have the 5/8" in [URL="http://cgi.ebay.com/Fenner-Drives-Power-Twist-Plus-B-5-8-4-section_W0QQitemZ280301722132QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item280301722132&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116"]4' for $35 shipped[/url]

:wave:


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## wquiles (Apr 11, 2009)

darkzero said:


> B/5L-Section PowerTwist Plus V-Belt 6' - Part Number: 0418050SL $57.09
> 
> B/5L-Section PowerTwist Plus V-Belt 25' - Part Number: 0405050 $215.75
> 
> ...



Thank you - I went ahead and ordered from them 

Will


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## Drywolf (Apr 11, 2009)

This place has it reasonably priced.
Frank

Powertwist

Products
------------------------------------------------------
1 x 0405010-5, 3L, 150-600, 3/8 in, 5 ft. PowerTwist Plus (0405010-5) = $24.62
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $24.62
United States Postal Service (1 x 1lb ) (Priority Mail: Estimated 1 - 3 Days): $7.95
Total: $32.57


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## StrikerDown (Apr 12, 2009)

Drywolf said:


> This place has it reasonably priced.
> Frank
> 
> Powertwist
> ...


 
Thanks, they do have good pricing, it looks like they are in the ball park with what we got with the 35% discount from MSC!


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## Mirage_Man (Apr 12, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> Thanks, they do have good pricing, it looks like they are in the ball park with what we got with the 35% discount from MSC!



Yeah, no kidding. Just goes to show you how expensive MSC/J&L is at their regular pricing.


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## darkzero (Apr 12, 2009)

Thanks Drywolf. And I thought that ebay store was a pretty good deal. Close though. My next order will definitely be from them. :twothumbs




Mirage_Man said:


> Yeah, no kidding. Just goes to show you how expensive MSC/J&L is at their regular pricing.


 
I always wondered why their prices are so much higher. No wonder they have so many "sales/discounts". I must say they do have good service though. I placed an order in the afternoon & received it the very next day. Totally unexpected. Turned out be a good deal on a Noga with the 40% off. I'm waiting for the next one. How often to the 40% days come around?


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## Torque1st (Apr 12, 2009)

Remember both belts and pulleys wear with use. There are specs that cover V-Belt and pulley dimensions in the Machinery Handbook and at many machinery parts and service sites on the web.


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## wquiles (Apr 15, 2009)

gadget_lover said:


> Is it possible that the belt is a little longer or shorter than the original? I can envision a situation where a different length belt will have your motor pivoted out (or in) so that the idler pulley changes location.
> 
> Luckily, you can add or remove a link easily AND put it back.
> 
> ...



Today I got my Fenner Belts, and after adjusting to length, and installing them, they are MUCH noisier than the "standard" belts. The noise comes from each link as it becomes attached and then separated as it goes arround. I have used these belts in the past several times, and this is the first time I encounter more noise.

I put the old "standard" belts back, and it is much quieter again. I will try to post some pictures tonight so that you can see how they fit. Weird :sick2:

Will


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## Torque1st (Apr 15, 2009)

Segmented belts are always noisier than standard belts. Sometimes the noise is a vibration transmitted into the belt cover and a small rubber pad can cure it. The vibrations can also be seen in the surface finish of parts at times.


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## wquiles (Apr 15, 2009)

Torque1st said:


> Segmented belts are always noisier than standard belts. Sometimes the noise is a vibration transmitted into the belt cover and a small rubber pad can cure it. The vibrations can also be seen in the surface finish of parts at times.



For me, in the last 3 applications, the segmented belts (Fenner Power Twist Plus) have been more quiet, and with less vibration than the normal belts they replaced. These ones with my knee mill are the exception - I don't know why yet 

Will


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## wquiles (Apr 15, 2009)

OK, here are the photos...


"Standard" belts:












Fenner Power Twist Plus belts:











I played some more with them just now while taking these pictures, and a lot of the noise seems to come from the actual links themselves - friction between the links. It almost sounds as they would need "lubrication", like they are almost too stiff. Maybe they need to be run a little before they get more pliable?

Will


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## darkzero (Apr 15, 2009)

For me on the mini lathe I can't say that it's quieter or louder than stock, just a different type of noise. I certainly don't consider it loud though. It does run smoother than my original belt but then again my original belt didn't look very great. I won't ever be changing back to a standard v-belt though.

I noticed if I don't have it tensioned enough it gets loud. It's also loud when spinning in reverse but they are not designed to run in reverse. Wait, I think I said that aleardy, yup I did.


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## Anglepoise (Apr 15, 2009)

Fenner belts don't do very well on small pulleys.
The ends of the links bind. Check to see if this is the case or not.
From the picture, that small motor pulley might cause problems.


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## wquiles (Apr 15, 2009)

Well, I applied a very light coat of WD-40, removed the excess, and guess what? The noise from the belt is gone :twothumbs

Vibration-wise it seems similar than before - I have to try cut "something" to see if I can tell a difference while cutting 

Will


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## precisionworks (Apr 15, 2009)

> I always wondered why their prices are so much higher.


MSC, McMaster, J&L, Grainger, etc., are primarily sellers to corporations. Corporations normally are risk adverse - even if they could buy the same item on eBay for 70% less, they could not charge it on open account & pay for it 30 days later ... and eBay transactions involve more risk than purchasing from an industrial supplier. 

Small commercial shops, like those run by many of us, are a one person show. So what if it takes an hour to find an item & save $900 (which I recently did on a batch controller) - not many of us earn more than $900 per hour:huh: We look for & find the best deal, while a larger corp will always order from McMaster or MSC.



> Maybe they need to be run a little before they get more pliable?


I think that's probably the case. New Fenner belts are stiffer than a shirt fresh from the cleaners. After a few hours run in, they get much softer. The sharp belt edges also start to wear & conform to the angled V-grooves of the sheaves. They are more noisy in a double belt installation (like a mill) where one belt is moving at a faster or slower speed than the other. Perhaps because each belt generates its own vibration frequency or harmonic, and sometimes the harmonics are addative. Certainly a subject worthy of a $1,000,000 Federal government study:twothumbs



> I noticed if I don't have it tensioned enough it gets loud.


They do like to be run fairly snug. If you can watch the belt under load, you'll see that there is one tension setting where the belt runs really smoothly. Too loose or too tight & you'll see either a standing wave or a moving wave going back & forth between sheaves. My Delta 6" belt/12" disc sander had a vibration at 60 Hz that would not go away, no matter what the tension. Same at 59 Hz & 58 Hz. Setting the VFD to 57 Hz (or lower) stopped all vibration - just another reason to install a VFD:thumbsup:


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## darkzero (Apr 15, 2009)

precisionworks said:


> MSC, McMaster, J&L, Grainger, etc., are primarily sellers to corporations. Corporations normally are risk adverse - even if they could buy the same item on eBay for 70% less, they could not charge it on open account & pay for it 30 days later ... and eBay transactions involve more risk than purchasing from an industrial supplier.


 
Very true. My current work orders a great deal from McMaster as well as my old work from Grainger for those reasons. I've always wanted to walk into Grainger, they have a location right down the street from me. 

Since then I have realized that MSC is this type of company. They practically have everything in stock in large quantities & their service is excellent. They had another 40% off day today so I took advantage again.

Didn't realize they were such a large organization. I was searching for a product from some overseas vendors & came across MSC/J&L in Europe! They seem just as large over there!


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## StrikerDown (Apr 15, 2009)

When I got home today my new Fenners were waiting in the MB! Thanks Brian! 

I put the ends together on the two and mounted them, fired it up and thought the front one was going to jump off! It had a high spot as it rounded the pulley. Took it off and found one of the links was inside out with the small end of the taper facing out instead of in and the high spot was the large side of the taper not fitting in the pulley! I wanted to shorten that belt anyway so I took out the offender and put the belt back. 

This time when I turned it on I noticed it was, Like Will said, louder that before, but it sounded more like a whirring noise instead of the harmonic rumbling. The harmonic is all gone and it just makes a consistent loud whirr!

I let it run for about 30 or so minutes while I welded up a broken machine part for work, then turned the mill off and inspected the belts and pulleys. The pulleys and belts all seemed much cooler than with the std. belts, and all seems fine.

I then put a scrap piece of aluminum in the vice that I had previously made a ¾” end mill pass on and did the same pass on the back side. All I can say is HOLY CRAP! The side cut using the Fenner belts is tons smoother! Running your finger across the two surfaces is like running your finger across 320 grit versus 1000 grit!

I hope you can see the difference.

Std. Belts:
All those little corcles are sharp eged little groves!






Fenner Belts:
On this one I fed in from the left pretty fast and it was pretty smooth, then I slowed down. 





My feeding speed isn't very consistent... I need a power feed! (it this a good excuse to spend more$?)

This really makes me think I need to upgrade the printing presses at work that use drive belts. They don't turn as fast and use larger diameter pulleys so the difference may not be as dramatic but worth a try, hell it's only money!


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## wquiles (Apr 16, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> When I got home today my new Fenners were waiting in the MB! Thanks Brian!
> 
> I put the ends together on the two and mounted them, fired it up and thought the front one was going to jump off! It had a high spot as it rounded the pulley. Took it off and found one of the links was inside out with the small end of the taper facing out instead of in and the high spot was the large side of the taper not fitting in the pulley! I wanted to shorten that belt anyway so I took out the offender and put the belt back.
> 
> ...



Oh yeah! Very nice improvement, and just from changing belts 

Will


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## precisionworks (Apr 16, 2009)

> Very nice improvement, and just from changing belts


+1

With the standard V-belt, my Delta sander shook like a washing machine. After installing the Fenner belt, a nickle will stand on edge on the table, with the motor running at any speed (up to 57 Hz, which equals 95% of full speed).


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## wquiles (Apr 16, 2009)

precisionworks said:


> +1
> 
> With the standard V-belt, my Delta sander shook like a washing machine. After installing the Fenner belt, a nickle will stand on edge on the table, with the motor running at any speed (up to 57 Hz, which equals 95% of full speed).



Well, something is not quite balanced, or tight enough in my knee mill, regardless of the belt used. The mill does not shake like a washing machine - not even close, but there is definitely a vibration or a particular resonance in the machine while running. Again, nothing large in amplitude, but I can feel it by touching anywhere in the machine, and since the machine is sitting right on the floor (no rubber mounting feet yet), I can barely also feel the low-freq vibration through the concrete floor. It is cutting well enough (as the pictures on Al and steel show), but it can definitely be better.

I do have the rubber feet already (same I got for the lathe, each rated to like 500 pounds or so), but I want to first fabricate a square steel platform to raise the mill a couple of inches, and then mounting the rubber feet to the steel platform.

Having a VFD is "definitely" on the plans for this mill, but not in the very near term. What can I look for or try before trying a VFD?

Will


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## Anglepoise (Apr 16, 2009)

Maybe it's my old eyes early in the morning, but there is something odd to me in this photo. The first belt does not look like it is flat parallel with the other. Could be an optical illusion.







It looks to me that the motor pulley has 3 positions, and the idler and spindle has 4. Nothing wrong with that , but are they all aligned up?
Might be worth checking.


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## StrikerDown (Apr 16, 2009)

From my post above:



StrikerDown said:


> I put the ends together on the two and mounted them, fired it up and thought the front one was going to jump off! It had a high spot as it rounded the pulley. Took it off and found one of the links was inside out with the small end of the taper facing out instead of in and the high spot was the large side of the taper not fitting in the pulley!



This is one thing you can check. Each link is tapered and if one is put on inside out it raises hell with the merry go round.

I found this one because of the printing on the link was on the inside not like the others. but you can also see the bevel of the link that does not match the others... once you know what to look for.

This vibration is not a higher frequency though, it is more of a thump thump at the speed of the high spot passing two pulleys.


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## StrikerDown (Apr 16, 2009)

Seeing how much improvement the belts made I can also see my self Putting on a quality motor that has been balanced. Also one that is speed adjustable would be real handy. I think a smooth power train on these light weight machines is critical to a good cut. Now Wills machine is not as light as mine so I think he has an advantage to start with. :devil:

I wonder if 3 phase motors also have smoother power output like a 12 cylinder is smoother than a 4 cylinder engine? (more power pulses per revolution type of thing)

Looking at the sine wave of three phase power there is more overlap of the voltage vectors, electrically it looks smoother anyway.


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## precisionworks (Apr 16, 2009)

> there is definitely a vibration or a particular resonance in the machine while running


My bet would be the motor ... some are well balanced, many are not. To test, take the drive belt off the motor & turn it on - feel the motor shell & you will know if that is the source. If the motor shell feels calm, look at the sheaves & see if there's any visible runout when spinning (either at full speed or by hand). You can also use a dial indicator & check TIR.



> wonder if 3 phase motors also have smoother power output


Smoother by at least one order of magnitude because of of the sine wave overlap. A well balanced 3 phase motor (driven from single phase by VFD) can cut machine vibration in half, compared to a poorly balanced single phase motor.


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## wquiles (Apr 16, 2009)

Anglepoise said:


> Maybe it's my old eyes early in the morning, but there is something odd to me in this photo. The first belt does not look like it is flat parallel with the other. Could be an optical illusion.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



David,

There is a slight angle, but what you saw in the picture above is mostly an optical ilusion. Here is a side view:





Will


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## wquiles (Apr 16, 2009)

precisionworks said:


> My bet would be the motor ... some are well balanced, many are not. To test, take the drive belt off the motor & turn it on - feel the motor shell & you will know if that is the source. If the motor shell feels calm, look at the sheaves & see if there's any visible runout when spinning (either at full speed or by hand). You can also use a dial indicator & check TIR.
> 
> Smoother by at least one order of magnitude because of of the sine wave overlap. A well balanced 3 phase motor (driven from single phase by VFD) can cut machine vibration in half, compared to a poorly balanced single phase motor.



Ding, Ding, Ding - we have a winner 

All of the vibration I felt, it is still there purely in the motor when the belts are not connected, so yes, just like you predicted, it is the motor. Darn it - I was hoping I would not have to do the VFD just yet. Looks like now I "have" to do it :devil:

Will


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## Anglepoise (Apr 16, 2009)

Your alignment is a little off. The motor pulley need to he adjusted up or down so everything aligns up. Might help, won't hurt.


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## precisionworks (Apr 16, 2009)

> it is still there purely in the motor when the belts are not connected


If you feel the need for a small project ... pull the end bells off the motor, pull the bearings off the shaft, take the rotor to a motor shop & have them spin balance it, install new bearings (KBC, FAG, SKF, etc.) & reassemble. Problem is, a new Baldor on eBay will cost less:huh:

For the small cost, roughly $100 for the motor & $250 for the VFD, you'll love the results. I've done three so far, and have about that many left to do.


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## wquiles (Apr 16, 2009)

Anglepoise said:


> Your alignment is a little off. The motor pulley need to he adjusted up or down so everything aligns up. Might help, won't hurt.



Thanks David. I will take care of that when I get the new motor/VFD installed 



precisionworks said:


> If you feel the need for a small project ... pull the end bells off the motor, pull the bearings off the shaft, take the rotor to a motor shop & have them spin balance it, install new bearings (KBC, FAG, SKF, etc.) & reassemble. Problem is, a new Baldor on eBay will cost less:huh:
> 
> For the small cost, roughly $100 for the motor & $250 for the VFD, you'll love the results. I've done three so far, and have about that many left to do.



Nah - not worth trying to "fix" this motor. I will go the VFD route and get a higher quality motor instead. I will keep using the mill "as is" for now while I save money for the VFD conversion 

Will


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## DonShock (Apr 18, 2009)

Just a quick FYI in case anybody is interested. I was in Harbor Freight this morning picking up a light for my Lathe and I noticed they had one of these link belts available. It's not Fenner brand but Accu-Link. It's a 5 foot length of the A size (1/2" wide) for $25. As near as I can tell it's a duplicate for the Fenner 6007 belt in the lathe I got from Will. I went ahead and picked one up as a spare. I don't know how widely available these are at HF, but at my local store they were in the area with the drill bits.


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## Mirage_Man (Apr 18, 2009)

DonShock said:


> Just a quick FYI in case anybody is interested. I was in Harbor Freight this morning picking up a light for my Lathe and I noticed they had one of these link belts available. It's not Fenner brand but Accu-Link. It's a 5 foot length of the A size (1/2" wide) for $25. As near as I can tell it's a duplicate for the Fenner 6007 belt in the lathe I got from Will. I went ahead and picked one up as a spare. I don't know how widely available these are at HF, but at my local store they were in the area with the drill bits.



I've seen those at my local HF too. I'm a little leery about them though. But I'm that way with most things sold at HF  .


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## precisionworks (Apr 18, 2009)

No doubt that it's a Fenner knock off ... and costs as much as the Fenner brand:mecry:

http://www.jasonindustrial.com/


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## darkzero (Apr 18, 2009)

DonShock said:


> Just a quick FYI in case anybody is interested. I was in Harbor Freight this morning picking up a light for my Lathe and I noticed they had one of these link belts available. It's not Fenner brand but Accu-Link. It's a 5 foot length of the A size (1/2" wide) for $25. As near as I can tell it's a duplicate for the Fenner 6007 belt in the lathe I got from Will. I went ahead and picked one up as a spare. I don't know how widely available these are at HF, but at my local store they were in the area with the drill bits.


 
Might want to check the size before deciding to keep that Accu-Link 1/2". I too was going to buy 1/2" for my HF 8x14 but I measured 3/8" & so that is what I bought.







You have Fenner now, why use a knock off as a back up? I only paid a bit more for my Fenner than what you got the Accu-Link for at HF. There's a link in theis thread that has them cheaper than what I paid too.


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## Mirage_Man (Apr 18, 2009)

darkzero said:


> You have Fenner now, why use a knock off as a back up? I only paid a bit more for my Fenner than what you got the Accu-Link for at HF. There's a link in theis thread that has them cheaper than what I paid too.



Yeah, I ordered and received some 1/2" for my lathe last week from them :thumbsup:.


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## choffman (Apr 18, 2009)

darkzero said:


>




This is off-topic, but what is that nifty looking scale you've got there? Who makes it/ model, etc.. 

Thanks


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## darkzero (Apr 18, 2009)

choffman said:


> This is off-topic, but what is that nifty looking scale you've got there? Who makes it/ model, etc..
> 
> Thanks


 
It's an Ultra Rule made by General. I'm sure pretty much everyone who's been at the tools section in most hardware stores has seen the brand, yellow packaging with black General logo.

I have the 6" version. I bought it many years ago but I think I got it at Sears. Home Depot, Lowes, or Ace should have them. The slots are for making pretty accurate markings with a mechanic pencil. It's a great ruler!

http://www.generaltools.com/Departments/Hand-Tools/Measuring-Tools/Ultra-Rule-Marking-Rulers.aspx


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## precisionworks (Apr 18, 2009)

When I saw the photo, it looked almost like the Incra Rule:

http://www.incra.com/product_markingrules.htm


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## choffman (Apr 19, 2009)

Cool, thanks.


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