# EagleTac P10A Comparison Review



## UnknownVT (Nov 25, 2008)

On loan from 4sevens is this EagleTac P10A - 1x AA flashlight using Cree Q5 emitter with two levels and forward/tactical clicky.

The "P" in the model # stands for "Personal" - 
EagleTac have another range designated "T" for "Tactical" which use lithium batteries.

The "P" models have narrower heads for more compactness - 
whereas the wider heads of the "T" series are for wider side-spill and better throw.

Size -





The narrower "P" heads relatively speaking are still substatially wider than the typical 1AA light - which makes the P10A bulkier than other 1AA lights.

Head -





EagleTac claims 130 lumens for the Hi mode -

vs. Fenix LD10 on Turbo both on NiMH (Kodak Pre-Charged)







the EagleTac is just a bit brighter - Fenix LD10 is rated 120 lumens on Turbo.

vs. Fenix L1D-Q5 on Turbo (also rated 120 lumens) both NiMH







Both the Fenix beams are smoother with warmer tints.

vs. NiteCore D10 (Q5) both Max and NiMH







close, the EagleTac might still just have it? The NiteCore D10 (Q5) is rated 130 torch or OTF lumens - so, maybe the bigger head gives the EagleTac better efficiency?

vs. JETbeam JET-1 MK IBS both Max and NiMH







Very close the JET-1 IBS also claims 130 lumens - this time in comparison the EagleTac beam is smoother than the JETbeam.

How about the "Lo" level? It kind of looked like the Medium on the Fenix -

Lo vs. Fenix LD10 Medium







The Fenix LD10 medium is brighter than the EagleTac Lo.
Fenix rates 47 lumens medium, EagleTac rates 37 lumens Lo.

Lo vs. Fenix L1D-Q5 Medium -







Fenix L1D-Q5 medium looks brighter still - rated 53 lumens.

*Index to Follow Up Parts* -

Comparison with 1x CR123 lights in Post #*4*

Size in hand Comparison - Post #*7*

Current draw - Post #*9*

Standardized Stairway beamshot - Post #*11*

Comparisons with 3.7V rechargeable Li-Ion 14500 - post #*21*


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## Magnus1959 (Nov 25, 2008)

Thanks for the review!


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## Monocrom (Nov 25, 2008)

Very nice review. 

My P10A has been very reliable in the short amount of time I've owned it. 

The output is what I'd expect from the better 1xCR123 celled lights out there. Keep having to remind myself it's a AA light. Works great with an Energizer E2 lithium.


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## UnknownVT (Nov 25, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> The output is what I'd expect from the better 1xCR123 celled lights out there. Keep having to remind myself it's a AA light.


 
Interesting observation - I was thinking along those lines too.

People may have laughed at a 1x AA "Tactical" light (note EagleTac does not designate this as a Tactical - but in their Personal series). 

However it is rated 130 lumens on Hi which is twice as bright as those "ultra bright" 2x lithium CR123 xenon lights like the SureFire 6P and G2 or Streamlight Scorpions of this world - it is actually brighter than the now legendary and one time "ridiculously bright" 3x CR123 xenon SureFire 9P (rated at 105 lumens)

It is "bright", but pretty comparable to those other 120-130 lumen 1AA lights above.

So how does it compare to 1x CR123 lights?

Pretty well....

Size -





Head -





vs. Fenix PD20 on primary CR123 Turbo







yes, the Fenix PD20 is noticably brighter than the EagleTac P10A - but not dramatically so - afterall the PD20 is rated at 180 lumens some 38% brighter - measurable, just perceptible when compared side-by-side - but practically in real use?

vs. NiteCore EX10 on primary CR123 Max







again the EX10 is brighter - but caveat this is that over-achieving EX10 which caused all the fuss in NiteCore Lumens Rating - I thought it was faulty due to unexpected turn-offs - but it did not do it for the month before, and hasn't done it since - including a runtime on a RCR123.

So the EagleTac P10A does not quite match the two CR123 lights - but in practical usage probably one is not going to see that much difference - not in any typical indoors scenario - but probably outdoor at distance - where the bigger reflector of the EagleTac might give it some advantage.


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## LED_Thrift (Nov 25, 2008)

You always do great reviews of interesting lights - thanks again. 

I find it *amazing* what the p10a and p10a2 can accomplish with AA batteries. It gives me the option of using safe, hassle-free NiMH rechargeables, lithiums for max power and low temp operation [great for backpacking] or easy to find alkalines in a pinch.


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## Monocrom (Nov 25, 2008)

UnknownVT said:


> So how does it compare to 1x CR123 lights?
> 
> Pretty well....
> 
> Size -


 
Except for my Novatac 120P, I'm generally not a fan of 1xCR123 lights. One reason for that is illustrated in your pic. Many 1xCR123 lights are just too short in my hands. I can lay the P10A across my palm, and just the smallest bit of the light protrudes from either end. I like being able to wrap all four fingers around the light, with my thumb on top of the forward clickie.


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## UnknownVT (Nov 25, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> Except for my Novatac 120P, I'm generally not a fan of 1xCR123 lights. One reason for that is illustrated in your pic. Many 1xCR123 lights are just too short in my hands. I can lay the P10A across my palm, and just the smallest bit of the light protrudes from either end. I like being able to wrap all four fingers around the light, with my thumb on top of the forward clickie.


 
hmmm... interesting again -

I too have a preference for 1x AA lights both for the commonality of AA batteries as well as for me better ergonomics/size -

But the 1x CR123 aren't that small - they seem to be relative to the EagleTac P10A - because that light is big for a 1x AA 
- in fact the 1x CR123 light seem to fit your description - in my hands....... 
even the dimunitive NiteCore EX10 - 
probably the Fenix PD20 is the best fit for your description - 
although the NiteCore D10 is my at home EDC















my hands are average-y - long fingers perhaps on the slim side.


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## roymail (Nov 25, 2008)

Current draw?

Approx runtime with intermittent use?

Above at both levels, please... THANKS!

Excellent review, VT


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## UnknownVT (Nov 25, 2008)

roymail said:


> Current draw?
> Above at both levels, please... THANKS!


 
Using NiMH (Kodak Pre-Charged) 1.277V o-c

Hi = 2.15A
Lo = 0.26A


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## LED_Thrift (Nov 25, 2008)

wow 2.15A is heavy draw for a single AA. 

I just got in from a walk w the dog. I had the p10a2 w me. It has become my favorite outdoor light, replacing a Lux V that goes through batteries too quickly.


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## UnknownVT (Nov 25, 2008)

Standardized Stairway beamshot -


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## RayG (Dec 11, 2008)

Been lurking around and have found your very practical reviews quite informative. Especially this one, since I personally find these 1xAA lights very interesting. It would be nice to see how the P10A on 14500 compares with the 1xCR123 lights you stacked it up against. The numbers posted on light-reviews are quite impressive. It would also be nice to see if the P10A output sags on the 14500 as significantly as the nightcore D10, as Selfbuilt found in his review.


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## f22shift (Dec 11, 2008)

LED_Thrift said:


> wow 2.15A is heavy draw for a single AA.
> 
> I just got in from a walk w the dog. I had the p10a2 w me. It has become my favorite outdoor light, replacing a Lux V that goes through batteries too quickly.


 
if u have a bad nimh u'll get 1.75a, 0.35a
it's good to check ur batt wth a dmm.


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## f22shift (Dec 11, 2008)

u can also use it without a reflector for a no hotspot beam


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## UnknownVT (Dec 13, 2008)

RayG said:


> It would be nice to see how the P10A on 14500 compares with the 1xCR123 lights you stacked it up against. The numbers posted on light-reviews are quite impressive. It would also be nice to see if the P10A output sags on the 14500 as significantly as the nightcore D10, as Selfbuilt found in his review.


 
According to EagleTac P10A specs - the batteries are only AA's (alkaline, NiMH or 1.7V lithium) no mention was made for 14500.

I also asked 4sevens who looked it up and said the P10A was not spec'd for 14500 usage.

However I suspect/speculate that EagleTac, Fenix and Olights may have some "family ties" - 
which could mean that the P10A, P10A2 and P10C may (guess only) share the same head(s)? -

_BUT_ according to the EagleTac P10A features - it uses the A400 LED Driver.

whereas -
EagleTac P10A2 (2x AA) uses the A800 LED Driver
EagleTac P10C (1x CR123) uses the L800 LED Driver

So apparently the heads are _different_.

I did this.....

Tried the P10A2 (2x AA) head on the P10A (1x AA) body - 
this is safe since the P10A2 head handles 3V - 
that combo seemed to work fine - 
ie: the P10A2 head on 1x AA looks just like the regular P10A - 
note: this is on a look-see basis only.

So with a bit of trepidation - I tried the P10A (1x AA) head on the P10A2 (2x AA) body - 
not safe, since that's driving the 1x AA head with 2x AA 
(I used recently charged Kodak Pre-Charged LSD NiMH) - 
this also worked fine, in both Lo, then Hi modes - 
but I only had this combination on for a very short time just to see if it worked.

Currently I dare _NOT_ try a 3.7V Li-Ion 14500 with the P10A 
- unless 4sevens or EagleTac says it's OK to try


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## RayG (Dec 13, 2008)

UnknownVT said:


> According to EagleTac P10A specs - the batteries are only AA's (alkaline, NiMH or 1.7V lithium) no mention was made for 14500.
> 
> I also asked 4sevens who looked it up and said the P10A was not spec'd for 14500 usage.
> 
> ...


 
Wow, thanks. I was just going by this review, in case you have not seen it. I seems he also ran the P10A on a 14500 for an extended period to get runtimes.


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## OCDGearhead (Dec 14, 2008)

RayG said:


> Wow, thanks. I was just going by this review, in case you have not seen it. I seems he also ran the P10A on a 14500 for an extended period to get runtimes.


 

I have noticed he also runs the Fenix lights on 14500 or 16340 batteries also, with no mention of using the 3.0v batteries.

I think I'll ask in the lightrveviews fourm for confirmation.


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## UnknownVT (Dec 14, 2008)

RayG said:


> Wow, thanks. I was just going by this review, in case you have not seen it. I seems he also ran the P10A on a 14500 for an extended period to get runtimes.


 
Yes that's why I asked 4sevens.

It appears that the sample used for test was fine on 14500 - 
my short try-out of the P10A on 2x AA seem to indicate it's probably OK -
so I suspect it's probably OK - 
but as the light is a loaner - I can only "risk" it if 4sevens or EagleTac say it's OK.


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## RayG (Dec 22, 2008)

UnknownVT said:


> Yes that's why I asked 4sevens.
> 
> It appears that the sample used for test was fine on 14500 -
> my short try-out of the P10A on 2x AA seem to indicate it's probably OK -
> ...



I emailed Eagletac and this is the reply from Nicole:

_1) The P10A circuit can ran 14500, but it's not optimized. You will get 200-ish lumen at start and drops to about 130 lumen before flat-regulation kicks-in. When the input voltage is higher than the output voltage, the P10A circuit acts as a direct drive. You should have no issue using 14500 as long as it's protected with PCB at the bottom.

_Another reviewer says it won't work with AW protected 14500's due to the shorter anode (?) contact, but is ok with Ultrafires. Since most use the AW's (I do), then this may be moot. OTOH, the light-reviews article on the P10A used an AW 14500, so I don't know how true this is.

I also asked about whether the lens cracking issue (in a separate review) had been resolved...


_2) The lens damage we believe is just individual cases. We try numerous copies from various models in performing the dropping test and they are all fine. I will report back if I have any news from our engineers. If anything breaks, we will replace it for free.

_And if I may add, the reply came the same day.


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## roymail (Dec 22, 2008)

Vincent, how hard is it to remove the pocket clip? Can you get it off without any damage to the finish?

Also, I actually like the larger size for practical use. Thanks for a great review! :thumbsup:


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## UnknownVT (Dec 23, 2008)

RayG said:


> I emailed Eagletac and this is the reply from Nicole:
> _1) The P10A circuit can ran 14500, but it's not optimized. You will get 200-ish lumen at start and drops to about 130 lumen before flat-regulation kicks-in. When the input voltage is higher than the output voltage, the P10A circuit acts as a direct drive. You should have no issue using 14500 as long as it's protected with PCB at the bottom._


 
OK, you guys have talked me into it -

Comparisons using 3.7V rechargeable Li-Ion 14500

vs. JETbeam JET-1 MK IBS both Max - on Li-Ion 14500








very close the JETbeam might be just a midgen brighter.

vs. NiteCore D10 (Q5) both Max -on Li-Ion 14500







again close - but this time the EagleTac is brighter.

How much brighter is the P10A on Li-Ion 14500 over NiMH - I don't have a second P10A to compare - but I compared the P10A on 14500 to the NiteCore D10 on NiMH to give an idea of the difference.

vs. NiteCore D10 (Q5) Max on NiMH







this time it's pretty obvious the P10A on Li-Ion 14500 is brighter than the NiteCore D10 on NiMH.


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## edc3 (Dec 23, 2008)

roymail said:


> Vincent, how hard is it to remove the pocket clip? Can you get it off without any damage to the finish?
> 
> Also, I actually like the larger size for practical use. Thanks for a great review! :thumbsup:



I just got a P10A this morning and promptly removed the clip. It's not hard at all to take off and it didn't mar the finish. 

Regarding the size, I tried it in my pocket with and without the clip and it's not great, but not too uncomfortable. But it's *very* comfortable in the hand.


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## Monocrom (Dec 23, 2008)

edc3 said:


> I just got a P10A this morning and promptly removed the clip. It's not hard at all to take off and it didn't mar the finish.
> 
> Regarding the size, I tried it in my pocket with and without the clip and it's not great, but not too uncomfortable. But it's *very* comfortable in the hand.


 
Difference of opinion I guess, but I find that the P10A practically vanishes when clipped bezel-down onto a front pants pocket. Can't even feel it in my pocket. Haven't tried carrying it without the clip. Don't like tossing a light into a pants pocket if it's bigger than my Fenix L0D or ArcMania modded Mag Solitaire.


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## edc3 (Dec 23, 2008)

I have to revise my previous post. I normally always carry a knife clipped to the rear of my right front pocket. When I had the P10A clipped in my pocket, it was forward of my knife. If I put the P10A where it should be - where my knife usually is, it's great. I barely know it's there. So Monocrom is right. I still find holding a light with a clip uncomfortable, but that's personal preference and maybe worth getting used to in this case.

This is a very nice light - good size in the hand, bright, runs on AA, easy UI. I'm not sure it will replace my EX10, but I'll carry it for a few days and see how it goes.


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## roymail (Dec 23, 2008)

edc3 said:


> I just got a P10A this morning and promptly removed the clip. It's not hard at all to take off and it didn't mar the finish.
> Regarding the size, I tried it in my pocket with and without the clip and it's not great, but not too uncomfortable. But it's *very* comfortable in the hand.


 
Thanks, edc3... appreciate the answer to my question about the clip. I generally don't edc, so my concern has more to do with how this 1AA light feels in my hand. I appears to be of similar size to the E1B although I don't have one to compare.

I think this is my next light! Merry Christmas everyone!


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## edc3 (Dec 23, 2008)

You're welcome. I hope you'll be happy with your P10A. It's a sweet light. 

Merry Christmas! :santa:


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## 2manybikes (Dec 30, 2008)

Did you try an outside test or any kind to test the throw? My P10a2 has great throw, I'm thinking the P10a might out throw my D-10 by quite a bit. If it does I may want one.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 30, 2008)

UnknownVT said:


> However I suspect/speculate that EagleTac, Fenix and Olights may have some "family ties" -
> which could mean that the P10A, P10A2 and P10C may (guess only) share the same head(s)? -
> 
> _BUT_ according to the EagleTac P10A features - it uses the A400 LED Driver.
> ...


Excellent comparative tests, as always Vincent. :thumbsup:

Although I don't have a P10A to test myself, your results make perfect sense to me. Your digging around and confirmation of different drivers for each model also fits with my experience to date.

I do have the P10A2, so I thought I would test it out with a dummy aluminum spacer to see how it handled 1xNiMH and 1x14500. 

On 1xNiMH, the P10A2 head is clearly not optimized - unlike the tight regulation I saw on 2xNiMH, 1xNiMH looks a lot like direct drive. Overall output was among the lowest of the my Q5-based 1AA lights. Runtime was consistent with its output level, though. I'm sure the P10A has excellent regulation and output, in comparison.

On 1x14500, the P10A2 is at least as bright as 2xAA on Hi, but looses its low mode - and again appears to run on direct drive (at least initially). This is very reminiscent of the Fenix LxD/P2D driver, but I didn't do a full runtime to confirm.

Interesting that unlike Fenix, EagleTac seems to have chosen drivers that are optimized for each battery configuration. So while you loose the ability to play "lego", you do get the maximum possible regulation and output for each model. A pity about the lack of optimization for 14500, though.

Cheers! :wave:


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## UnknownVT (Dec 31, 2008)

selfbuilt said:


> I do have the P10A2, so I thought I would test it out with a dummy aluminum spacer to see how it handled 1xNiMH and 1x14500.
> On 1xNiMH, the P10A2 head is clearly not optimized - unlike the tight regulation I saw on 2xNiMH, 1xNiMH looks a lot like direct drive. Overall output was among the lowest of the my Q5-based 1AA lights. Runtime was consistent with its output level, though. I'm sure the P10A has excellent regulation and output, in comparison.


 
Selfbuilt - thanks for the input - 
sorry to be late in responding.

I found what you said to be interesting - 
I thought that EagleTac may have the Lego interchangablity - 
but didn't realize that there may have been a difference.
Although I do have to question the bit about being on "direct drive" - 
surely it can't be for 1x NiMH - the voltage is way below the Vf - 
and it has to have been boosted to work with 1x AA NiMH?


So.....

I took the P10A2 head and put it on the P10A (1x AA) body -

EagleTac P10A2 head on 1x AA P10A body vs. NiteCore D10 (Q5) both Max and NiMH







this set kind of looks like the P10A vs. D10 in the opening post - other than the slight tint difference (which is proof that I am using a different LED/head).

This may lead me to say there is no difference between the P10A and P10A2 heads - like the Fenix interchangability....

_BUT_ because what you wrote - 
I also checked the Lo setting on the P10A2 head on 1xAA -

P10A2 head on 1xAA Lo vs. Fenix LD10 medium both NiMH







the P10A2 head on 1xAA Lo level is brighter than the Fenix LD10 medium.
Look back at the opening post and one sees that the Fenix LD10 on medium was close but brighter than the EagleTac P10A on Lo.....

So the situation is reversed - and one can see it easily in the comparison beamshots - 
which means the regulation on Lo, at least, has to be different on the P10A2 from the P10A......


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## selfbuilt (Dec 31, 2008)

UnknownVT said:


> this set kind of looks like the P10A vs. D10 in the opening post - other than the slight tint difference (which is proof that I am using a different LED/head).


Thanks for the extra tests Vincent ... 

FYI, you might want to try the comparison after ~5 mins into the runs. I noticed that my P10A2 head when run on 1AA with the spacer was initially quite bright, but then dropped noticeably to a lower output level for the rest of the run. The P10A2 on 2xAA is exquisitely regulated at a constant max setting (the D10 is as well, so it would be interesting to see the difference in your hands).

P.S. Happy New Year!


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## UnknownVT (Dec 31, 2008)

selfbuilt said:


> FYI, you might want to try the comparison after ~5 mins into the runs. I noticed that my P10A2 head when run on 1AA with the spacer was initially quite bright, but then dropped noticeably to a lower output level for the rest of the run.


 
Using the same NiMH batteries (Kodak Pre-Charged) so these already have been used for the comparison beamshots in Post #*29* 

Start ~0 min on these used NiMH -







they look about the same....

After about 6 mins -







The comparison still looks about the same - 
and very similar to the set at the start ~0 min.


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## selfbuilt (Jan 1, 2009)

UnknownVT said:


> The comparison still looks about the same -
> and very similar to the set at the start ~0 min.


Thanks Vincent, appreciate the extra effort. 

Looking back over my runtime data, I see now that one of my D10-Q5 samples actually shows a similar drop-off in output of the first 5-10mins as my P10A2 on 1AA. Judging from your pics, it looks like output has dropped a bit on both of your lights as well, but proportionally so. Another one of my D10-Q5 was quite flat out of the gate, so there is definitely some variability on the Nitecores.

Of course, it's also possible my aluminum spacer on the P10A2 isn't behaving well with NiMH (although I've tested in my L2D and got identical results to my L1D runtimes on 1xNiMH).

Anyway, I think it's safe to say there are some differences in how the Eagletac circuits are optimized between the various heads, but it's probably not huge in the case of 1AA vs 2AA.

Cheers!


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## UnknownVT (Jan 1, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> Looking back over my runtime data, I see now that one of my D10-Q5 samples actually shows a similar drop-off in output of the first 5-10mins as my P10A2 on 1AA. Judging from your pics, it looks like output has dropped a bit on both of your lights as well, but proportionally so. Another one of my D10-Q5 was quite flat out of the gate, so there is definitely some variability on the Nitecores.


 
Arrrgh! then a side-by-side comparison would not show anything - as what we are judging is any relative differences - and if they both go dimmer - then there would be very little if any relative difference.

There are other ways to tango....

I looked at the exposure information - the initial set when the batteries were relatively freshly charged (about 2 hours previously) and used only to align/set up the lights probably <2mins?

Full exposure = 1/60 @ f/3.5
-2 Stops = 1/251 @ f/4

The "0 min"
Full exp = 1/60 @ f/3.2
-2 Stops = 1/200 @ f/4

~ 6 min
Full exp = 1/60 @ f/3.2
-2 Stops = 1/202 @ f/4

So between my initial set in the opening post _BOTH_ lights together were approx 20% brighter according to the exposure in the Full exposure shot; and 25.5% to 24% brighter in the -2 Stops shots. BUT these are from different days and different ambient conditions - so might not be quite that valid?

In the second set there was no difference between the full exposure on the "0min" and the ~6min shots - 

_BUT_ the -2 Stops sets - for the ~6min there is a _GAIN_ of 1% in brightness over the "0 min" - 
this may be due to simple experiemental variation/margin of error. 

Photo exposure is probably a very crude/approximate way of measuring light levels, 
even if cameras use basically the same kind of light meter for its exposure system - 
(that's why I have always maintained that my comparison beamshots are only there to compare the relative differences between the two light in the shot only - a sort of qualitative (yes, subjective) analysis and not any form of quantative analysis.)

Anyway isn't there always somewhat of a slight drop off in battery output in the first few minutes before it settles down to a relatively flat output, even for NiMH - but especially for 1x AA lights as the "regulation" requires a substantial boost? That's why I never use batteries fresh off the charger and allow for the setting up aligning time ~ 2-3 mins to avoid the initial high brightness.

This is facinating - 
I can re-do the comparison shots if you like - 
Please let me know the conditions - 
NiMH batteries - which? Kodak Pre-Charged or eneloop?
State of charge - starting from say 1-2 hours after full charge?
What time intervals? 5 mins, 10 mins 
(please remember my set up time probably uses at minimum ~1 min of runtime (if I rush) but ~2 is more likely.)
Other flashlight to compare to - Fenix LD10 or L1D - which are pretty well regulated?


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## selfbuilt (Jan 1, 2009)

UnknownVT said:


> This is facinating -
> I can re-do the comparison shots if you like -
> Please let me know the conditions -


I'm glad you're having fun Vincent. :laughing:

Going over my data again, I see I mistook my LD10 for my 2nd D10.  

Here's a graph showing the runtime of a number of the lights:






As you can see, my LD20 with 1AA and dummy aluminum spacer isn't that different from my LD10 on 1AA. But my P10A2 on 1AA and dummy seems rather low to me, compared to how strong a performer the P10A2 is on 2AA (i.e. my brightest 2AA light, and exquisitely regulated).

Not sure what you can do with exposures to chart the progress further. I'm guessing my dummy aluminum spacer is affecting the P10A2 results somewhat - the only way to know for sure would be for me to pick up a P10A, I suppose. I'll give it some thought 

Cheers!


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## UnknownVT (Jan 1, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> Going over my data again, I see I mistook my LD10 for my 2nd D10.


 
OK if the NiteCore D10's (your 2 samples) have relatively flat outputs - with*out* a drop in the first 5 minutes -
then since there was no discernable change in relative difference in brightness between the P10A2 head on 1xAA compared to my sample of the NiteCore D10 (Q5) from my first comparisons in Post #*29* and my timed comparisons in post #*31* - then the P10A2 head on 1xAA did not drop in brightness.

I just remembered why there may be a difference in exposure between the beamshots in Post #*29* and Post #*31* - that could make my first set of calculations in camera exposure levels _IN_valid.

The exposure set by the camera is very dependent on the positions of the light beams - although I try to set the beams as consistently as possible - because of different beam diameters - the hotspots are not always in the same place(s) - and since the first set in Post #*29* were shot on a different day there could easily been a difference in beam positions - 
this affects the actual exposure, and a 25% difference is well within a slight difference in positions on the target paper - as that is only a 1/3 stop difference which in photographic terms is about the lowest exposure increment.

That again is why I do not use the side-by-side comparison beamshots for any sort of quantitative analysis or compare between separate beamshots - but only as strictly a comparison between the two lights in the same shot - where a slight difference in exposure should not affect the relative difference comparison.


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## kyhunter1 (Jan 14, 2009)

Very nice review, I almost bought a P10A, got at SF E1B instead..


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## selfbuilt (Jan 15, 2009)

That reminds me ... I decided to order a P10A after all to test myself. 

I won't be doing an individual review of it, but I will add it to my planned revised 1AA round-up thread, following the pattern of my 1xCR123A/RCR and 2xAA round-up threads (i.e. runtimes, beamshots, brief overview)

I've just ordered it, so will likely be a couple of weeks before I get it. It will take a couple of weeks past that to collect all the data and post the 1AA round up thread (I've got a few other 1AA lights coming in I plan to add as well).

:wave:


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## UnknownVT (Jan 15, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> That reminds me ... I decided to order a P10A after all to test myself.
> I've just ordered it, so will likely be a couple of weeks before I get it. It will take a couple of weeks past that to collect all the data and post the 1AA round up thread


 
Very cool! thank you for letting us know - I really look forward to seeing your results and comments.

Since you have the P10A2 (2AA) - be interesting to do a head swap and see what a P10A2 (2AA) head is like on a P10A (1AA) body - are the results the same as your previous using that alumium dummy battery in the P10A2? - and of course the P10A (1AA) head on the P10A2 (2AA) body :thumbsup:


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## selfbuilt (Jan 20, 2009)

UnknownVT said:


> Since you have the P10A2 (2AA) - be interesting to do a head swap and see what a P10A2 (2AA) head is like on a P10A (1AA) body - are the results the same as your previous using that alumium dummy battery in the P10A2? - and of course the P10A (1AA) head on the P10A2 (2AA) body :thumbsup:


Just received my P10A. 






I think it's safe to assume the P10A and P10A2 have different circuits optimized for their battery configurations. Both produce a rock-solid regulation when run at spec, with best efficiency.
*
But the P10A produces the exactly the same output on 2AA as it does on 1AA!* I didn't want to do a full run like this, since I'm not sure that's safe for the head or batteries.

Interestingly, the P10A2 on 1AA has a non-regulated drop over the first 10 mins, but otherwise equivalent runtime to the P10A on 1AA (i.e. just a bit less output and regulation overall).

It seems like my aluminum dummy spacer in the 2AA host is adding some resistance, since it's curve has a similar pattern but less output compared to the P10A2 on the 1AA host.


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## toby_pra (Jan 21, 2009)

very nice Beamshots!


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## Burgess (Jan 21, 2009)

Wow !


What a great review !


Thank you to everybody for all this Great Information.


:twothumbs:goodjob::thanks:
_


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## f22shift (Jan 21, 2009)

soyou could get a p10a2 and use a 1aa body but not vice versa.
good research


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## UnknownVT (Jan 21, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> Just received my P10A.
> *But the P10A produces the exactly the same output on 2AA as it does on 1AA!* I didn't want to do a full run like this, since I'm not sure that's safe for the head or batteries.


 
Selfbuilt - thank you so much for following up on this - interesting results.

I am definitely getting different results to you.

I also did a head swap - to be explicit 
P10A head on the 2x AA P10A2 body 
P10A2 head on the 1x AA P10A body

and did the following side-by-side comparison beamshots -

Hi level -








seems like very similar levels.

Lo Level -







the P10A2 head on 1x AA Lo level is noticably brighter than the P10A on 2x AA - 
kind of corroborating what I saw in Post #*29* with P10A2 head on 1x AA on Lo and "control" comparison of the Fenix LD10 on Medium.

But there is a slight wrinkle - 
and _NOT_ a small one at that......

I'm using my basement which is cold today -
and the P10A2 head on 1x AA was being very temperamental - 
there were _LOTS_ of times when it wouldn't even light up in either Hi or Lo - 
I did not see that when I tried it back in Post #*29* (Dec/31/2008).

I doubled checked - changed batteries (freshly charged Kodak Pre-Charged) even changed the tail-switch and the P10A2 head worked fine on 2x AA - 
so it was defintely the P10A2 head on 1x AA that was misbehaving.

At least on my one sample the P10A2 head does not seem to want to work consistently on 1x AA today.

If I went by the evidence today - 
I would have said this sample of the P10A2 head does not work properly on 1x AA 
- so there has to be a difference in circuits between these samples of the P10A and P10A2.


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## selfbuilt (Jan 21, 2009)

Interesting Vincent ... we clearly have different P10A heads, because mine will not do anywhere close to the max output of the P10A2 on 2AA.

I'm about the leave on holiday, but here are some detailed output numbers in my lightbox (all on eneloops)

P10A2 Hi 2xAA = 79
P10A2 Lo 2xAA = 35

P10A2 Hi 1xAA = 57
P10A2 Lo 1xAA = 36

P10A Hi 2xAA = 57
P10A Lo 2xAA = 21

P10A Hi 1xAA = 58
P10A Lo 1xAA = 22

As you can see, _my P10A head has exactly the same output on Lo or Hi on both 2xAA and 1xAA_. 

In contrast, the P10A2 maintains the same output on Lo (which, like yours, is higher than the P10A on Lo), but has different outputs on Hi in 1xAA or 2xAA format.

I wonder what kind of runtime I would get on the P10A on 2xAA, since output is unaltered compared to 1xAA ... but I don't plan to test this, since it may not be safe for the light (or batteries).

:wave:


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## UnknownVT (Jan 21, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> Interesting Vincent ... we clearly have different P10A heads, because mine will not do anywhere close to the max output of the P10A2 on 2AA.
> P10A2 Hi 1xAA = 57
> .............
> P10A Hi 2xAA = 57


 
Hmmmm... perhaps our results may not be differing afterall -
P10A on 2x AA Hi and the P10A2 on 1 xAA Hi looked to be about the same level in the comparison beamshots in Post #*43* ..... 
but the problem with comparsion beamshots is that they just compare and do not measure - so we don't know if they are both 220 lumens or 20 lumens.......

So I compared the P10A on 2x AA with the Fenix PD30 (2xCR123 Q5 rated at 220 lumens)







this shows the Fenix PD30 is brighter than the P10A on 2x AA 
(in EagleTac P10A2 Comparison Review the P10A2 seemed on par with the Fenix PD30) - 
so this shows the P10A on 2x AA is not as bright as the P10A2.

But it still looks reasonably bright - so how bright is it?
vs. NiteCore D10 (Q5) on 3.7V rechargeable Li-Ion 14500







looks about the same ballpark - 
and the _Guesstimate_ was my sample of the D10 on 14500 may be around 190 lumens, as that combo essentially matched the NiteCore Extreme see post #*44* in NiteCore D10 Comparison Review 

So this means that the P10A on 2x AA is brighter than the P10A on a single AA.



selfbuilt said:


> P10A2 Lo 1xAA = 36
> .......
> P10A Lo 2xAA = 21


 
This also seems to corrobate the brighter Lo level of the P10A2 on 1x AA in the second set of beamshots in Post #*43*.


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Jul 24, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P10A tint?*

I was hoping to buy a P10A in neutral white to go with my P20A2 in neutral white. Was the P10A, like the P20A2, even offered in a choice of tints? If not, how would you describe the tint. According to this review, it's neutral-white. But I find it hard to believe that no one else would mention it.


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## UnknownVT (Jul 25, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P10A tint?*



Paul_in_Maryland said:


> I was hoping to buy a P10A in neutral white to go with my P20A2 in neutral white. Was the P10A, like the P20A2, even offered in a choice of tints? If not, how would you describe the tint. According to this review, it's neutral-white. But I find it hard to believe that no one else would mention it.



Suggest asking that reviewer whether the light tested was a Neutral White emitter - or if they were just using the "neutral" colloquially to describe a lack of obvious tint.

The light(s) I reviewed are the basic Cool White emitter(s) - there are 34 comparison beamshots in this thread alone - so hopefully one can judge for oneself?


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