# Soldering Aluminum - Alumaloy



## deeuubee (Feb 14, 2008)

Has anybody used Alumaloy to solder Mag flashlights?

http://www.alumaloy.net/

I need to add a 1" extention to my Mag3D LiFePo4 - 3 LED project. The three D size batteries are just a little too long to fit inside even with shortening the spring.

I thought about cutting a piece off another Mag body and soldering it with this Alumaloy and was wondering if anybody has tried it before? It seems with practice it should work.

Or, does anybody have any other ideas on how to lengthen the Mag body by 1"?

I saw that someone sold an extentions here, but they were sold out and no further plans to make more were in the wind.


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## KenAnderson (Feb 14, 2008)

It's a nightmare to work with and the results are not good, if you really wish to join it, either have an extension made or have it welded by a shop that welds alum.


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## RDZombie (Feb 14, 2008)

Ken, did you use the first gen of the alumaloy or the new? i had the first gen and it sucked pretty bad, the newer stuff is better but still not as good as a true weld job


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## will (Feb 14, 2008)

The strongest method is to get a 4D light and cut it down and rethread the end.

A threaded extension would be next best. 

next - would be to get a junk D light and make a press fit extension. Lots of precision machining to do this. 

you can weld , but that is going to leave an unfinished bead and would require re-anodizing.


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## DaFABRICATA (Feb 14, 2008)

If you want to send it to me I could TIG weld it for you.
The anodizing would be removed in the area welded, but at least it would work.
PM me if you're interested


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## KenAnderson (Feb 14, 2008)

RDZombie said:


> Ken, did you use the first gen of the alumaloy or the new? i had the first gen and it sucked pretty bad, the newer stuff is better but still not as good as a true weld job


 
I'm pretty sure I had first gen stuff and a few iterations after. Definately gave up on the stuff after awhile. Yes, a nice weld job expecially if the light will have some knurling applied would be great.

Yes, a better solution would be to cut a longer mag down. Good thought.

ken


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## LukeA (Feb 14, 2008)

I don't know if a cutdown mag would be cheaper, but I do know that it would be easier.


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## deeuubee (Feb 15, 2008)

DaFabricata - PM sent.

Cutting down a 4D is an option, I'd have to buy one first. How hard is it to rethread the cut end? Does anyone know where to get the rethreading done?

I ordered some of the Alumaloy to give one light a shot. Now I'll see if it's "AS SEEN ON TV"


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## Torque1st (Feb 15, 2008)

deeuubee said:


> Cutting down a 4D is an option, I'd have to buy one first. How hard is it to rethread the cut end? Does anyone know where to get the rethreading done?


Try a local machine shop (yellow pages).


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## Ctechlite (Feb 15, 2008)

Try sending Fivemega a PM about this extension He may have more available. 37mm is a little bit longer than 1 inch but I think you can make up for it with a stretched spring. And it will be a lot easier than cutting/welding etc...Good luck


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## deeuubee (Feb 16, 2008)

Ctechlite - Thanks that's a good idea, I'll give one a try.

DaFabricata - Thanks, I'll send it soon so you can do your magic for me


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## Ctechlite (Feb 16, 2008)

Glad I could help ya!


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 17, 2008)

Here is another alternative...although I cannot imagine using it to join two Mag tubes together...cosmetically.


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## bluephoton (Feb 22, 2008)

Have you thought of changing the power cells? I went for lithium polymers for the same reason of not having enough space for electronics. I have made many of these as well as constant current charge circuits and have had success with getting a lot more in a given space.


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## K9-Handler (Feb 23, 2008)

Not sure if this "fits", but....

I recently crammed 4 C cells into a 3D tube using 1" Sch. 40 PVC pipe as a sleeve.
Since the 4 C's were longer, I removed the D spring, and substituted a spring from a 2C that fit down into the bottom of the tailcap. Mechanically it worked like a champ. The cap screwed down all the way.

The only problem I ran into was getting the light to turn on. After a little troubleshooting I found out that the inside of the tailcap is clearcoated in the area where the spare bulb used to reside, so the spring wasn't making an electrical connection. I beadblasted the inside of the cap and it worked, but I imagine that process can be accomplished with sandpaper also.

Sure beats cutting and soldering or threading the tube.


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