# BASIC FLASHLIGHT TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE



## Cataract

I see too many threads about "my light won't come on" where people just do not know the basics of what to do in that type of situation, so here it is in a nutshell:

*BASIC FLASHLIGHT TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE:
*
1 – Check the battery polarity (most often positive towards the head, but not always)

2 - Make sure all parts are screwed in all the way and remove / reinstall your dropin if applicable while inspecting for broken parts.

3 - Try a new non-rechargeable battery (and new bulb if it’s an incandescent)

4 - Clean all contacts: inside the head, spring(s), tube ends and threads. (Rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip work fine or this)
4A - For twisties and lights that have erratic behavior: check if your o-rings are not creating too much friction (too dry or too big) or not enough tension (too small). Big o-rings can prevent contact, small o-rings can make contacts happen when not desired, causing flickers or undesired mode changes.

5 - Remove the tailcap and short the end of the battery with the end of the tube (a paper clip works just fine). 
5A - If this works: tighten the tailcap retainer ring (note that some are reverse threaded). 
5B - If tightening the retainer ring doesn't work dismantle the switch, clean all contacts inside the switch area 
and reassemble. 
5C - If this does not fix the problem, but the light comes on when you short the battery and the tube end, you most likely have a defective switch.

6 - Contact you dealer. If the dealer warranty is over, contact the manufacturer. Some dealers and manufacturers will honor the warranty for longer than stated or will provide replacement parts for a reasonable fee and sometimes even for free.

Don’t just give up on a light or brand just because your light didn’t come on.

*As a standard maintenance procedure*, you should lubricate your o-rings (see the comprehensive grease and lube thread for more details) and clean your contacts on a regular basis (at the very least once or twice a year up to once a month, depending on your usage.) Once a year, I check that my retainer rings are screwed in properly and I basically never have any problems.

Let me know if I forgot anything and I invite you to share your tips & trick or stories of a light that neede a simple maintenance to get going again :thumbsup:


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## ^Gurthang

Cataract,

Your list is a very good start. I'll suggest also checking the driver & LED for broken connections [especially if the light was dropped]. I had a drop-in + spring pop loose after a drop.


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## Cataract

Good point. I added a comment on dropins on the second line. 

The goal here is to get newbs over 99% problems while not running the risk of voiding the warranty on new lights, so I prefer not to mention taking the pill out or anything like that. I'm hoping the mods will notice this thread and make it a sticky so people don't feel the need to start a thread every time a light won't turn on due to a small maintenance related problem. In-depth troubleshooting is rarely needed (virtually never if the light is under warranty) and very often requires more specific procedures like how to remove a specific pill and should also be accompanied by recommendations from someone who already opened that specific light when possible.


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## Draven451

great idea! I think this post would make for a great sticky~*


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## ^Gurthang

Cataract,

I get your point about taking apart a light & voiding the warranty. I was mainly thinking of P60 based lights when I responded the first time. I'll second the motion to make this a "sticky" thread for helping newbies, especially since I've gotten a small amount of grief for suggesting [to newbies] to use the search function to find the info they seek. Another suggesttion if this is made a sticky thread is to add some pics showing how to tighten a tailcap switch ring or a loose connection, or some sort of helpful pics.


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## jorn

There is a sticky about stuff like this (with pictures) in the budget part of the forum.


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## Cataract

^Gurthang said:


> Cataract,
> 
> I get your point about taking apart a light & voiding the warranty. I was mainly thinking of P60 based lights when I responded the first time. I'll second the motion to make this a "sticky" thread for helping newbies, especially since I've gotten a small amount of grief for suggesting [to newbies] to use the search function to find the info they seek. Another suggesttion if this is made a sticky thread is to add some pics showing how to tighten a tailcap switch ring or a loose connection, or some sort of helpful pics.



Excellent points there. I'll make the commitment to add pics with arrows to the areas to clean, disassembled switch and whatever seems useful if the mods decide to sticky this thread.





jorn said:


> There is a sticky about stuff like this (with pictures) in the budget part of the forum.



Didn't know about that one, but it does concentrate more on the internals rather than the regular maintenance points. Nice pics, though.


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## russde

Cataract, 
As a newb I want to thank you for taking the time to put this together. I knew about most of these, others I would have spent a great deal of time either searching (here) for or fumbling around until I thought of it myself.
Cheers!


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## Cataract

russde said:


> Cataract,
> As a newb I want to thank you for taking the time to put this together. I knew about most of these, others I would have spent a great deal of time either searching (here) for or fumbling around until I thought of it myself.
> Cheers!



Thanks, took me a while too at first and that's why I figured these little things needed to be put together


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## sold365.com

Thanks, as a relative newbie to Flashlight repairs, following your steps helped me start up a 10 minute RUN BC 10!


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## Cataract

sold365.com said:


> Thanks, as a relative newbie to Flashlight repairs, following your steps helped me start up a 10 minute RUN BC 10!



:twothumbs That's what I created this thread for!

Mods: why not make this a sticky or link it in "threads of interest"...


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## tam17

Thanks for starting this thread, Cataract! A little contribution from my fresh experience.

*Twisty flashlight changes modes out of sequence + very hard to turn on and off*

I've almost returned a perfectly good LD01 (XP-G R4) today. At first it seemed like it's changing modes randomly (as you probably know, LD01 is a twisty with med>low>high sequence), and that p*ssed me off so bad that I've failed to notice how dry the O-ring was, making turning on and off very hard. Upon arriving home, I've removed the O-ring and then tested the UI: it worked flawlessly! I've lightly polished the sealing surfaces with used "1500" waterproof carbide paper, washed the O-ring in dishwashing detergent, cleaned everything, applied silicone grease and re-assembled. Everything A-OK!

So, dry and sticky O-ring can affect the overall flashlight operation, not only the waterproofing.

Cheers


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## Sub_Umbra

I've got a problem with #4.

Alcohol isn't the best thing to clean contacts, though it *may* work if nothing else is available. The catch is that you have to use the 91% alchol and not the far more common 70%.

It doesn't make any sense to try to clean electrical contacts *with anything that is 30% water.*


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## Irelander

Sub_Umbra said:


> I've got a problem with #4.
> 
> Alcohol isn't the best thing to clean contacts, though it *may* work if nothing else is available. The catch is that you have to use the 91% alchol and not the far more common 70%.
> 
> It doesn't make any sense to try to clean electrical contacts *with anything that is 30% water.*



I highly recommend DeoxIT. I work with electronics all day and much of it is repair work. We have tried all types of contact cleaners and DeoxIT works wonders and keeps the contacts looking good for a long time. Grab a bottle and it will last you a long time if all you are doing is cleaning your light contacts once in a while. I just cleaned my Quark 123 contacts with it the other day and they look as good as new now.


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## tam17

Sub_Umbra said:


> I've got a problem with #4.
> 
> Alcohol isn't the best thing to clean contacts, though it *may* work if nothing else is available. The catch is that you have to use the 91% alchol and not the far more common 70%.
> 
> It doesn't make any sense to try to clean electrical contacts *with anything that is 30% water.*



Alcohol is recommended in Fenixlight Ltd.'s user manuals. Quote: "Clean the contact points with an alcohol soaked cotton swab." (Source: LD01 R4 User Manual). _Which_ alcohol and _which_ concentration - not mentioned.

I'm using either 95% ethanol or "Oszillin T6" contact spray for fine electronics. Never use water-based products or WD-40...

Cheers


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## Cataract

I just came back from vacation to see my thread has attracted some new comments.




tam17 said:


> Thanks for starting this thread, Cataract! A little contribution from my fresh experience.
> 
> *Twisty flashlight changes modes out of sequence + very hard to turn on and off*
> 
> I've almost returned a perfectly good LD01 (XP-G R4) today. At first it seemed like it's changing modes randomly (as you probably know, LD01 is a twisty with med>low>high sequence), and that p*ssed me off so bad that I've failed to notice how dry the O-ring was, making turning on and off very hard. Upon arriving home, I've removed the O-ring and then tested the UI: it worked flawlessly! I've lightly polished the sealing surfaces with used "1500" waterproof carbide paper, washed the O-ring in dishwashing detergent, cleaned everything, applied silicone grease and re-assembled. Everything A-OK!
> 
> So, dry and sticky O-ring can affect the overall flashlight operation, not only the waterproofing.
> 
> Cheers



Thanks for your contribution, I'll add something about checking o-rings.



Sub_Umbra said:


> I've got a problem with #4.
> 
> Alcohol isn't the best thing to clean contacts, though it *may* work if nothing else is available. The catch is that you have to use the 91% alchol and not the far more common 70%.
> 
> It doesn't make any sense to try to clean electrical contacts *with *_*anything*_* that is 30% water.*



Believe it or not, this is a very common practice in electronics to use alcohol, wheter it be 90% or 70% alcohol (most do prefer 90 - 95%, though). First off, board contacts are normally of a type that is very hard to corrode, if at all, and board traces are protected by a coating. Second, the evaporation rate of alcohol (including 70%) is high enough that nothing is left on the surface within seconds. In general, there is only a very small deposit of dirt, oil or oxydation on flashlight contacts and even a dry q-tip might do the job, but sometimes more is needed and alcohol is used because of the high evaporation rate and also because it works well on most oils.

Contact cleaner solutions are also recommendable, but there is no evidence whatsoever that using 70% alcohol will do anything bad. Plus, most flashlights have gold plated contacts and gold has pretty much 0 tendency to corrode. Whatever you use to clean your contacts, just make sure you don't use so much it can leak inside the head or the tailcap. What you really want to avoid is humidity inside the head with the electronics, that's where water can affect the durability of the electronics, but exactly how much so is very open for debate and has more to do with the soldering quality than anything else. Also, know that most contact cleaning products do contain some water and that some of these products are aggressive enough that they can cause premature wear on contacts or dissolve gold plating when used frequently. Basically, the more a product cleans oily stuff easily, the more it is likely to remove gold plating, but that is only a concern if you clean your contacts often.



Irelander said:


> I highly recommend DeoxIT. I work with electronics all day and much of it is repair work. We have tried all types of contact cleaners and DeoxIT works wonders and keeps the contacts looking good for a long time. Grab a bottle and it will last you a long time if all you are doing is cleaning your light contacts once in a while. I just cleaned my Quark 123 contacts with it the other day and they look as good as new now.



Deoxit will remove the worst of residues, even some rust caused by a leaking battery. I still try to use it with caution but, yea, it makes contacts look great. It is also designed with gold plated contacts in mind, so is very recommendable.




tam17 said:


> Alcohol is recommended in Fenixlight Ltd.'s user manuals. Quote: "Clean the contact points with an alcohol soaked cotton swab." (Source: LD01 R4 User Manual). _Which_ alcohol and _which_ concentration - not mentioned.
> 
> I'm using either 95% ethanol or "Oszillin T6" contact spray for fine electronics. Never use water-based products or WD-40...
> 
> Cheers




Most (if not all) manufacturers of anything electronic will recommend using alcohol for cleaning contacts and, no, no one will specify which concentration: 70% and up is good enough for most uses. Just don't overdo it whatever you use.


NOW FOR THE RESERVE SIDE OF THE COIN:

I definitely recommend NOT using alcohol on your o-rings as it can dry and cause cracking on certain materials. I usually remove my o-rings before doing any cleaning on the threads.


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## Cataract

Added line 4A thanks to tam17.


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## Cataract

If you have a faulty TK40 that has a battery case with the metal posts, check this thread:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...not-working!&p=4051043&viewfull=1#post4051043


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## cummins4x4

Great thread. I am currently trying to repair a dead deree, so far newly charged batteries aren,t doing it.


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## Cataract

Let us know how it's going. I'll be glad to help if I can


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## Bullzeyebill

Bringing this to the top. Good thread and deserves to be a sticky, what with all of the threads started about "my broken light".

Bill


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## Cataract

:twothumbs: thanks Bill! That was the whole point for starting this thread


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## johnmar

Very useful,thanks


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## Newuser01

I have found that some lights , pills, or the switch assembly becomes loose (some times even new out of box) that tightening it can eliminate problems such as whining and/or won't turn on. 

This issue can and do effect premium lights as well as cheap ones.

Regards.


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## gravelmonkey

Cataract said:


> I see too many threads about "my light won't come on" where people just do not know the basics of what to do in that type of situation, so here it is in a nutshell:
> 
> *BASIC FLASHLIGHT TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE:
> *
> 1 – Check the battery polarity (most often positive towards the head, but not always)
> 
> 2 - Make sure all parts are screwed in all the way and remove / reinstall your dropin if applicable while inspecting for broken parts.
> 
> 3 - Try a new non-rechargeable battery (and new bulb if it’s an incandescent)
> 
> 4 - Clean all contacts: inside the head, spring(s), tube ends and threads. (Rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip work fine or this)
> 4A - For twisties and lights that have erratic behavior: check if your o-rings are not creating too much friction (too dry or too big) or not enough tension (too small). Big o-rings can prevent contact, small o-rings can make contacts happen when not desired, causing flickers or undesired mode changes.
> 
> 5 - Remove the tailcap and short the end of the battery with the end of the tube (a *trombone* works just fine).
> 5A - If this works: tighten the tailcap retainer ring (note that some are reverse threaded).
> 5B - If tightening the retainer ring doesn't work dismantle the switch, clean all contacts inside the switch area
> and reassemble.
> 5C - If this does not fix the problem, but the light comes on when you short the battery and the tube end, you most likely have a defective switch.
> 
> 6 - Contact you dealer. If the dealer warranty is over, contact the manufacturer. Some dealers and manufacturers will honor the warranty for longer than stated or will provide replacement parts for a reasonable fee and sometimes even for free.
> 
> Don’t just give up on a light or brand just because your light didn’t come on.
> 
> *As a standard maintenance procedure*, you should lubricate your o-rings (see the comprehensive grease and lube thread for more details) and clean your contacts on a regular basis (at the very least once or twice a year up to once a month, depending on your usage.) Once a year, I check that my retainer rings are screwed in properly and I basically never have any problems.
> 
> Let me know if I forgot anything and I invite you to share your tips & trick or stories of a light that neede a simple maintenance to get going again :thumbsup:



Trombone?!?!

I laughed out loud and now everyone on the bus thinks Im insane....


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## fyrstormer

It may be a bad translation of "paperclip", since paperclips are folded in the same basic shape as trombones.


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## gravelmonkey

fyrstormer said:


> It may be a bad translation of "paperclip", since paperclips are folded in the same basic shape as trombones.



I had assumed such, unless it was an on-going CPF joke I hadn't got yet!


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## Cataract

Emmm... yea, that would be a paper clip... don't know how that one got through LOL. Although, any musical brass instrument should _conduct_ enough to let the current through, but you might find the tuba a little tough to handle while playing with a flashlight (on any other forum this would have been said the other way around)... and you might want to think twice before putting your lips to something that has a couple of amps going through - and I don't mean guitar amp here (some people might thank you for not playing the trombone on an amplifier, though).

I corrected the original post to avoid confusion and help prevent flashlights to be blown onto walls or musical instruments to mysteriously start sound like the hamster got stuck in there.

gravelmonkey: I hope you don't see too many of the same people on the bus each day. 

fyrstormer: correct, trombone is both the musical instrument and a paper clip in French. Don't know if it was me or the spell-check that got mixed up.


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## One missed call

Hi there.

Informative thread!

I have a Jetbeam DDR30 which is about 2 months old and has about 3-4 hour of use. The other night I was using it and moments after turning it on, it shut down. This happened two (2) times over a 1 hour period in the same night. The first time I noticed the battery tube/tail cap was not screwed on completely (could be tighten just a bit more). Shortly thereafter, it happened again. Both incidents occurred moments after first turning on the light. The light allows for 'momentary on' by depressing the on button for a short period. After holding the on button for more than 2 seconds, it stays on and the DDR shows an "H" denoting 'high.' In both instances I had depressed the on button for a minimum of 4 seconds and the "H" appeared.

At the time I had Panasonic NCR18650A 3100mAh batteries installed. Despite numerous attempts, I have not been able to get the light to trun off erratically again (good I suppose). 

Anyone know what could be the culprit here?

Finally, as for cleaning the contacts, should I need to do that on a factory fresh barely used light? 

Many thanks in advance for any help!


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## Cataract

Hi One Missed Call

You had to get me to check out the Going Gear review! Good thing I put a restriction on my budget, else I might be ordering a DDR30 myself...

Do start with my basic list even on a brand new light or right after doing a good maintenance as this solves over 90% of all problems. 

Your first suspect in this case is lube on the threads, tube endings or battery carrier contacts. I always start with cleaning threads and all contacts and seldom have to go any further, even on spankin new lights - when it does happen. 

Also, make sure your battery level is not low. You do have a battery level indicator on this light, so check out what it says... 1 = low batteries. When batteries are low on regulated lights, they normally cycle down through the modes and then just turn off.

In your case I'd say also give your battery contacts a swipe as well just in case. This light has a battery carrier, so you also want to make sure all the screws are nice and snug on the carrier as lots of battery carriers use the posts as conductors. 

Let us know if you find out anything or if it keeps going and going and going...


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## One missed call

Thanks Cataract! I appreciate the thread as well as the response. 

I will keep you all posted - I am out with it now. So far no issues. 

As for discovering a new light you may want by chance, I am in the same boat. Just when I thought the DDR30 was the highest compact LED light out (ignoring the TM26 which I don't like the look of) I find another - most recently the L3 X40 XML2 U2. Or even more recently, the Lupine Betty - which is a bit above my pay grade.


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## Cataract

You're very welcome... and you still haven't seen nothing yet  

CPF can point you towards the wallet blackhole of flashlight addiction :devil:


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## One missed call

Cataract said:


> You're very welcome... and you still haven't seen nothing yet
> 
> CPF can point you towards the wallet blackhole of flashlight addiction :devil:



I am beginning to see that! I haven't been here long but have a persistent itch to add to my collection and visit CPF a bunch of times in any given day. I am barely 4 months in and now have purchased 5 lights (all of which are between $180 and $300). 

I am starting to think CPF should have devote a section of the forum to 'getting help with your flashlight addiction.'  jk

Budgeting aside, I am trying to do more research for each light I want as it seems that not long after picking one, I always find another I wanted more.


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## Cataract

I found that spending less sorta happens after finding out the hard way what works best for you, then you aim at more specific interfaces, emitter colors, etc. The temptation level is still the same, but you look at less options, so end up buying a little less.

It sounds like a good idea to have a section to help with our addiction, but it would be like asking an alcoholic how he keeps of booze: he doesn't, but he finds different bars to get drunk at (in other words, you'd be pointed to different dealers, manufacturers or places to play with your lights.)


*To help anyone looking for a problem resolution in this thread:*

I exchanged a few PM's with One Missed Call and it would seem there was some grease on his light's tube endings. This can happen when the guys doing the final assembly put too much lube or just have some lube on their hands or whatever - I've done it myself a couple of times. The light works fine so far and I bet it will keep rockin'.


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## One missed call

Cataract said:


> I found that spending less sorta happens after finding out the hard way what works best for you, then you aim at more specific interfaces, emitter colors, etc. The temptation level is still the same, but you look at less options, so end up buying a little less.
> 
> It sounds like a good idea to have a section to help with our addiction, but it would be like asking an alcoholic how he keeps of booze: he doesn't, but he finds different bars to get drunk at (in other words, you'd be pointed to different dealers, manufacturers or places to play with your lights.)
> 
> 
> *To help anyone looking for a problem resolution in this thread:*
> 
> I exchanged a few PM's with One Missed Call and it would seem there was some grease on his light's tube endings. This can happen when the guys doing the final assembly put too much lube or just have some lube on their hands or whatever - I've done it myself a couple of times. The light works fine so far and I bet it will keep rockin'.



Just an update for those of you who are interested. As Cataract notes above, the issue seemed to have been resolved, but in reality it was not.

It's been a week and I think (with help from Cataract), I may have isolated the issue. The Panasonic NCR18650A batteries which I had been using (~69.4mm in length), were a VERY tight fit (In fact, I ripped a small part of the shrink wrap near the top of one of the cells as I pulled it out). Although I managed to get the batteries into the carriers, the excess(ive) compression may have caused either a battery or the battery carrier not to function properly.

I am now using Eagletac batteries which are shorter, and so far, so good.

Thanks Cataract!


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## Cataract

My pleasure. If you had to almost rip the battery out it definitely wasn't a good fit.

It is worth mentioning that protected Li-ion batteries do not all measure the same, often because of the protection circuit but also because of difference in capacities, and that is also a cause for malfunction in some cases. The difference of fit between flat top and button top can also cause contact issues.


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## ken-o

Irelander said:


> I highly recommend DeoxIT. I work with electronics all day and much of it is repair work. We have tried all types of contact cleaners and DeoxIT works wonders and keeps the contacts looking good for a long time. Grab a bottle and it will last you a long time if all you are doing is cleaning your light contacts once in a while. I just cleaned my Quark 123 contacts with it the other day and they look as good as new now.



LPS Contact cleaner or denatured alcohol will work fine..


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## Cataract

A lot of companies building electronic boards and repair companies actually use 70% rubbing alcohol on contacts and even entire boards. Works just fine since it evaporates in a few seconds. I use that all the time and never had a single problem aside needing something stronger to clean real bad oxydation or oily products. Not good for plastics and rubber though, as it dries those up and leave dark plastic finishes looking whitish.


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## Nomad

I wanted to say thank you for this posting! As soon as I get into a real apartment and unpack, I have got to try going through the list and try to fix my son's flashlight. He is tough on lights...he's 4.


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## Cataract

Thanks. I remember playing with my dad's flashlight like crazy when I was 4, so I really hope you can fix it


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## BrianHook

Flashlights are very handy during night. A flashlight should be durable and water proof. Various aspects described by you about flashlights are benevolent and commendable.


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## Cataract

BrianHook said:


> Flashlights are very handy during night. A flashlight should be durable and water proof. Various aspects described by you about flashlights are benevolent and commendable.



Thank you. That is why I only buy good quality lights.


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## Cruncher_Block

Very good advise. Tried your steps with no fix. I will now contact manufacture.
Thanks.
Ty


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## Cataract

Thanks. The manufacturer or distributor are really the next step in the process, but you can also get great advice by starting a thread specific to your problem (if a search does not return results first) is sometimes also a great eye opener when someone else has found a good fix to your specific problem.


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## Fish30114

This is good intel, especially for a newbie. Where would one purchase Doxit? I typically use 70% alcohol, and it has worked well so far, but I always like getting the best for the job, if I can afford it!


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## Bullzeyebill

Fish30114 said:


> This is good intel, especially for a newbie. Where would one purchase Doxit? I typically use 70% alcohol, and it has worked well so far, but I always like getting the best for the job, if I can afford it!





Irelander said:


> I highly recommend DeoxIT. I work with electronics all day and much of it is repair work. We have tried all types of contact cleaners and DeoxIT works wonders and keeps the contacts looking good for a long time. Grab a bottle and it will last you a long time if all you are doing is cleaning your light contacts once in a while. I just cleaned my Quark 123 contacts with it the other day and they look as good as new now.



Click on the link above. It is good stuff and I have used it. I need to order some more.

Bill


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## kmnremtp

Thanks so much! You just saved my fenix ld20 from the trash! She's good as new now! Had corrosion in switch


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## Cataract

kmnremtp said:


> Thanks so much! You just saved my fenix ld20 from the trash! She's good as new now! Had corrosion in switch



:twothumbs You're welcome! I would definitely hate to see a good piece like that go to waste.


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## Bullzeyebill

Gee Cataract, I thought I helped him out here with assistance from Irelander. Not sure though.

bill


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## Cataract

Thanks for covering that one, Bill. It sure seems like Fish did get the answer he was looking for :twothumbs: (and thank you Irelander for pointing the manufacturer's website all the way back there  ) 

I guess I was just too dizzy during the "shutdown frenzy" manufacturing plants go through here at the end of July to even notice something was going on. I also want to thank you again, Bill, for making this thread a sticky and I just noticed it was a day before the 2 year creation anniversary of this thread when I quit smoking just this year (thanks to e-cigarettes, as flashaholic-friendly device). I also just noticed that the 2 year sticky anniversary is coming up right this coming winter solstice, which also means 2 years after the predicted end of the world by the Mayan calendar fanatics!!!! 
We definitely need to celebrate all of that at once:buddies: (or at least don't let me get drunk alone and look like a jack... )

*
Everyone who was able to fix a problem thanks to my thread also need to thank Bill for making it a sticky*. I can't take 100% of the credit, it was Bill's decision to sticky this (even though I might have brought it up to his attention... once or twice... or was it the PWM sticky? :thinking: Who stickied my PWM thread? Why is it that when you're a kid, a month is like a year, yet we remember clearly what happened a year ago and when we're getting older, years are like months and we have a hard time remembering what happened yesterday?) So Bill stickied this despite the thread being slow, I guess because it does answer the basic questions (it sure wasn't because I sent him money or flashlights...) 

Bill: just thank you, I feel like I am somehow stepping into people's monitors and help guiding them remotely on how to go about the basic steps to get their lights working after a fail and I wouldn't have that feeling if no one had made this thread a sticky. I can't fix them all in one guide and I can't fix them all, period, but at least I can feel I'm making a difference


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## thinkFlashlights01

One problem I had with my Maglite was it was intermittently going on and off but, the solution was to take out the spring and put it back in. It works perfectly!


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## Cataract

thinkFlashlights01 said:


> One problem I had with my Maglite was it was intermittently going on and off but, the solution was to take out the spring and put it back in. It works perfectly!



Just playing with the spring could have cleared some crud by friction between the spring and the tailcap or removing it might have stretched it a bit. 

Thanks for sharing :twothumbs


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## orictheman

i dont know if this is the right place to comment but.. i recently recived one of those 18xt6 lamps from ebay and i cant get it to work any tips? Tryed the tips in the thread but no sucsses


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## Cataract

If the basics won't help, I would really recommend starting a new thread specific to your light and your problem. This is a different type of light as far as I know and you might need some fairly specific checks and to grab the attention of people who are familiar with the type of assembly in your light. Also, if there is a warranty left over, it might be the best place to start as a lot of the less expensive made in China lights have a higher than average manufacturing defects (sorry about this reality check).


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## bykfixer

Thanks for this thread and to everybody contributing.

I had a SureFire Z59 tail cap show up DOA so I yanked on the spring then reassembled.... and light went to flickering/sometimes working. 
So I yanked on the spring again and that time permanently stretched it about a 1/2", re-installed onto the switch and it works normal now.

I had read at some point (I think in the 200+ page Malkoff junkie thread...yes I read them all once upon a time when it was like 167 lol)...anyway Mr. Malkoff suggested somebody try that on their non functioning flashlight. 
Couldn't count on both hands how many times that has worked. 
I don't think changing spring length is what does it, but perhaps it's proper pressure/location or amount of contact that is applied to the switch. body that makes it go again.

If you pocket carry or work in dusty enviornments dust, dirt and grime gets into the darndest places.

You see most light rated IPX4 for example...that means it's not rated against micro particle intrusion like an IP44 light would be. 
X is the dust rating...and dust never sleeps.


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## WyomingWyld

Thanks for this post. One reason I enjoy this site so much, other than the huge amount of information, is people like this who share this seemingly basic knowledge. To you it's common sense but for many, like me, some of this info helps a great deal. Thanks a lot!


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## xjive

I like to thank you guys for this thread. I just got my first flashlight an Eagtac DX30LC2-SR and after putting the battery in it was flickering on every setting. So after reading this I took everything apart and put back together snug and now it works like a dream.


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## traveldog

Hi forum: I am having trouble with the switch assembly for an older 9n lite. I have the part that contacts the thumb pad, but nothing between that part and the battery. Worse yet, I have the manual but is says nothing about the switch. Does anyone here know where I can buy a new switch assembly or what parts I need? Please help.
-traveldog


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## vettex2

good info :wave:


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## ingineer

Thanks guys, so glad i remembered the contents of this thread.
i just received a Fenix cl25r lantern DOA and went trough the usual steps, until "unscrewing" the e-clip.
now it works


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## Pneumothorax

Havent posted here in forever. Got a basics question. My Jetbeam Mini-1 usb keychain light won't turn OFF. Last weekend, I used it and when i unscrewed to turn it off, it wouldnt turn off. I kept unscrewing until the cap came off. Whenever i try to screw it back on the light goes on and wont turn off...have you guys heard this one before? Is this just 'get a new light?' answer?


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## lilaussie18

Im looking for a pocket clip for my Surefire 9Z instead of the lanyard and also a clip for my old school E2E i put a Q5 LED [email protected] Conversion head onto. I dont know how or where to mount a new clip for the E2E. It used to be screwed into original head, new conversion doesnt offer option. Is there anything anyone has in mind for a rear tailcap slip in pocket clip?

Any ideas would help, been searching the web too long with no results.


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## Narcco

What is the best way to trouble shoot a converted maglite. When the light doesn't come on and the lights at the switch cycle through and stop on blue.


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## CDub

i have a question regarding cleaning my flashlight after leaked battery inside my Fenix E05. I pulled out the spring (far end of tube for battery contact) and cleaned it, but after putting in a new battery, the flashlight will not turn on. Under the spring, there might be some left over battery stuff. Is that affecting the non-power? How would I clean the tube further, how would I scrape inside a tube? Is it worth trying to figure out how to clean it further or just throw it away?
thanks.


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## Redhos83

Thank you for the write up. I’ve been a long time flashlight junkie but kind of new to the full customs and moding


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## LockNinja

I spilled xylene on my mecarmy pt16 lens. I was wondering if anyone knew how to clear it back up? It got completely fogged over and the beam is much weaker now.


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## wyldprairie

Great, thanks for this!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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