# I need a new soldering iron



## ambientmind

My iron died last night, and I'm having to use my "backup" radioshack iron that is just terrible. Anyone have suggestions on what they like? I'm looking for something with a small tip that is replaceable, and one that has a replaceable heating element. Lets try to keep the price under $50 but I'd be willing to spend more if its _really_ worth it. Thanks! :twothumbs


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## DonShock

I've been happy with this $59 Weller station. Variable temp, fair selection of tips, decent build quality. Being able to adjust the heat and tip size for each job will do wonders for both the ease and quality of your soldering jobs.


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## ambientmind

anyone else?


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## mulder89

I use a gas powered Weller soldering iron BUT it does "Blow" hot air whilst operating and is not the best for small jobs or very small soldering on PCB boards. You can do it but its not easy. Its temp is adjustable and you get well over 1 hour from normal butane. If you require electric you cant go wrong with a Weller as well. The one mentioned in the post above seems very reasonably priced and with variable wattage I don't think you could go wrong.
mulder89
http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/weller/


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## koala

DonShock said:


> I've been happy with this $59 Weller station. Variable temp



DonShock - I enjoy reading your soldering techniques a lot but I have to disagree with you this time. The Weller is a _power adjustable_ station. I don't own this sort of system so I don't know how it works, does adjusting the knob change the temperature too?

Velleman also sells a copy of the $59 Weller, model VTSS4 in the EU. I guess it's just rebranded from a ODM.


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## Rich Tharp

I just finished a survey of soldering stations for my shop. Our budget allowed us to get state of the art, but in the process I took note of some really nice deals in the lower price ranges. Foremost was the Xytronic 379 Auto-Temp unit available from howardelectronics.com. You can read reviews on this model and others on Amazon.com.
Good luck.
Rich Tharp


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## GVS_Lakers

I bought a Hakko 936, it's a little more than you are looking to spend but it is awesome. I bought it from this seller.

http://cgi.ebay.com/936-12-Hakko-So...18&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&timeout=1218647190561


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## darkzero

GVS_Lakers said:


> I bought a Hakko 936, it's a little more than you are looking to spend but it is awesome. I bought it from this seller.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/936-12-Hakko-So...18&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&timeout=1218647190561


 
I recommend the 936 too. I've been using the 936 at work everyday for 3 years now. I purchased my own from the same seller 6 months ago.


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## MorePower

I've been using this one http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307 for the last 2 years or so and haven't had any problems. The adjustable temp control is really helpful. They sell a digital model for just a bit more as well.


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## Rich Tharp

darkzero said:


> I recommend the 936 too. I've been using the 936 at work everyday for 3 years now. I purchased my own from the same seller 6 months ago.


They're right, that is a good unit. In the end I selected Hakko (FX-951) for our shop, and the 936 is value priced right now, so you can't go wrong, but if you are limited to $50, I would go with the Xytronic 379 for $49.95. The reviews are quite good as well.

http://www.amazon.com/review/produc...cm_cr_acr_txt?_encoding=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

RT


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## ambientmind

Wow, thanks for all the replies! I have a good range to pick from now, I appreciate it!:thumbsup:


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## VegasF6

I don't know what all you are going to be doing with this, but you may want to consider one that is ESD safe? I bought the weller wesd51, digital readout and esd safe. Just something to consider if you could be soldering something that is static sensitive.


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## Probedude

VegasF6 said:


> I don't know what all you are going to be doing with this, but you may want to consider one that is ESD safe? I bought the weller wesd51, digital readout and esd safe. Just something to consider if you could be soldering something that is static sensitive.



The Xytronic and Hakko, are esd safe.

The weller WLC100 is NOT ESD safe.


(edited to correct my mistake on the ESD rating of the wlc100)


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## ambientmind

I think I'll go for the Xytronic. All the reviews I read are great I dont see the need to go with the Hakko unless it was a higher end one, so thanks Rich Tharp! The store that MorePower linked to is actually about 20 miles from me and carries it for $44! They also carry all the extra tips, so it would be nice to have the store somewhat local for extra parts. Thanks for all the help! Now I can get back to my soldering:tinfoil:


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## VegasF6

Probedude said:


> The Xytronic and Hakko, even the weller 100 are all esd safe.


 

I am glad the OP found an iron to satisfy his needs. 

I was unable to find any information that the Weller WCL100 is ESD safe however, for the sake of future readers.


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## Probedude

VegasF6 said:


> I am glad the OP found an iron to satisfy his needs.
> 
> I was unable to find any information that the Weller WCL100 is ESD safe however, for the sake of future readers.



You are absolutely correct - in fact I found that it is NOT ESD safe.

http://www.tessco.com/products/displayProductInfo.do?sku=91070

Sorry, I'll update my post.


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## GarageBoy

Weller WTCP series has never failed my dad on his production line. Magnetic induction to control temp (the metal tip becomes non magnetic at the cut off temp, there fore regulating it)


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## ambientmind

VegasF6 said:


> I am glad the OP found an iron to satisfy his needs.
> 
> I was unable to find any information that the Weller WCL100 is ESD safe however, for the sake of future readers.



I'm glad too! :twothumbs So thanks again to everyone here for the great suggestions!


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## cy

got a Metcal MX500 ... but what I actually use ... 1950's weller w/temp control at tip


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## 1dash1

+1 Xytronic

OMG. Check out the sale price. :huh:

Link to CPF Marketplace


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## ambientmind

1dash1 said:


> +1 Xytronic
> 
> OMG. Check out the sale price. :huh:
> 
> Link to CPF Marketplace


http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7501
even better...and tips are cheaper there too!


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## 1dash1

Ambientmind:

I tried them before. They only ship UPS, which is too expensive for me. :mecry:

_._


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## GarageBoy

Cool, Cy uses a WTCP too
Www.techni-tool.com one of my favorite dealers


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## Probedude

cy said:


> got a Metcal MX500 ... but what I actually use ... 1950's weller w/temp control at tip



I love my Metcal MX500, with the exception of tip life is pretty poor. I only get about a month out of them. Ironically my previous iron is a Weller WTCP and those tips last forever! I still fire it up now and again when I need to use the 'chopsticks' method of removing SMT parts.

For those ever in the market for a desoldering gun, I've used Metcal, Pace, the cheap Radio Shack solder sucker, solderput, etc and finally found THE BEST desoldering gun ever. Inexpensive too. The Hakko 808, street price is ~ $165.


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## darkzero

Probedude said:


> I love my Metcal MX500, with the exception of tip life is pretty poor. I only get about a month out of them. Ironically my previous iron is a Weller WTCP and those tips last forever! I still fire it up now and again when I need to use the 'chopsticks' method of removing SMT parts.
> 
> For those ever in the market for a desoldering gun, I've used Metcal, Pace, the cheap Radio Shack solder sucker, solderput, etc and finally found THE BEST desoldering gun ever. Inexpensive too. The Hakko 808, street price is ~ $165.


 
Thanks for the tip! I've seen some Metcals....

How about hot air stations? I've been looking at the Madell 8502. It's inexpensive & has a soldering station built in too. Some of their products look like copies or rebranded Hakko. Looks like my Hakko 907 iron will plug right into it. We use these 8502s at my work & they seen to work fine.


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## koala

Metcal tips are not cheap, plus soldering temperature is not directly adjustable. The temperature is tip dependent. The MX500 is still a very hightech piece of equipment. They come up for sale on ebay once a while.

Try JBC if you are feeling really rich.

Some Madell stuff are overpriced, afterall they are just clones of clones. You should not pay more than $150 for a dual ended 360W soldering rework station. Try looking for KADA brand, same sheet different name. If you plan to solder bigger bga chips like motherboard chipset you will need more than 500W. Otherwise, 360W is fine for smaller chips like mobile phones, and ok for CREE reflow. Just keep the air flow low or else little parts will start flying all over the place once the solder melts.

I use a 700W unit myself. The fan is built into the handle piece so you don't maneuver an air hose around. You don't have to worry about the hose breaking and losing air pressure. This is common problem with clones. It's actually quite light too. The brushless fan doesn't sound very good, it sounds unwilling and quiet but the air flow is surprisingly high. It works pretty well, just like my clothes iron, the heater turns on only when required and the unit auto standby as soon as you return it to the holder. Mine comes with three different size nozzle attachment.

If you plan to spend more than $400, then infrared station is a better choice, a little overkill for a home tool.

Please note, Hakko stuff is never rebranded. Call HakkoUSA customer service to find out yourself.


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## ambientmind

Just an update, I picked up the Xytronic and its great! I also got some extra tips for it so its really versatile. Its an amazing difference from a normal pencil iron. So thanks a lot for the suggestions here, I appreciate it!


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## cy

from what I can tell... my old Weller was made in the 50's model W-TCP with green bakelite base. 

check this recent score for $15... a temp controlled Weller 55watt Magnastat with all sorts of tips.


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## DaFABRICATA

OK...its time!.....actually WAY overdue.

Is the Hakko 936 better than the Xytronic?

They are both priced about the same, but the hakko seems easier to get tips for.

Any suggestions?...


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## DaFABRICATA

No input from anyone huh?:shrug:


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## darkzero

I never had a Xytronic station but I did use one of their adjustable irons for years when I worked as a mechanic at a race car shop. I currently use a Hakko 936 & I love it. I barely purchased mine last year (used a standard 15W Hakko iron previously) but I've been using the 936 at my current work for years. It's a great reliable iron that I would highly recommend.


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## DaFABRICATA

darkzero said:


> I never had a Xytronic station but I did use one of their adjustable irons for years when I worked as a mechanic at a race car shop. I currently use a Hakko 936 & I love it. I barely purchased mine last year (used a standard 15W Hakko iron previously) but I've been using the 936 at my current work for years. It's a great reliable iron that I would highly recommend.


 


Thank you Will!!!

Thats all I needed to hear!!
I completely trust your opinion:thumbsup:

I'll be ordering one tonight!


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## datiLED

If you are looking to get a nice station on a budget, I would recommend checking out Circuit Specialists. I have been using a Circuit Specialists CSI station for over three years, and I love it. It is the analog version and is nearly identical to the Hakko 936. It may even be a rebranded Hakko made for CSI. I actually use Hakko tips in mine. I finally had to replace the wand in January, and the new version is even berrer than the original.

If you like a digital readout, they have those, too.

I also have a Xytronic station that I use for through hole work. It is a nice unit, but the available tips are not good for fine work. I would use it a lot more if I had finer tips. 

Regardless of what you get, you need to order a tip cleaner. You'll never use a sponge again.


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## Tekno_Cowboy

I recently bought the Hakko 936, and I'm sure liking it.
@datiLED: I heard that tip cleaners of the type you listed can wear down tips faster. What's your opinion?


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## DaFABRICATA

Ordered the Hakko 936 last week after posting in this thread.
I also ordered a jewelers vise to make things a bit easier to solder.

Hopefully I will get them this coming week.
I can't believe I went as long as I did using the shitty soldering iron I had.

Any suggestions you guys have for better solder and what tips are a MUST to have?
I will be ordering several more tips on monday and would like to get some feedback before doing so.

Any help would be great!

Thanks in advance!:wave:


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## sskyy

A bump for DaFABRICATAs question, and one of my own.
I have also decided to upgrade from my tiny cheep soldering iron.
And would welcome some advice about what to replace it with, baring in mind that I am in the UK.
The Hakko 936 seems highly recommended and would be my first choice I think, But what about the Hakko FX951 or the 937? Are they worth the extra?


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## DaFABRICATA

I just recieved the Hakko 936 last friday and LOVE IT!!!
I can not believe I went as long as I did with the crappy one I had before!

My soldering looks soooo much better and it does just an amazing job!

In fact I have been up all night modding!
I swapped the LUX V out of a Surefire L2 with a warm Seoul to be used on my L1, I made a sandwich using a SOB917 and Q3-5A Cree, I finished modding a members D-Mini with a P7, and cleaned up a few ugly solders on some past projects.

I LOVE THIS THING!!!
For the money, it ROCKS!


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## Tekno_Cowboy

63/37 solder is nice. I also like lead-free for some stuff.


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## 07accordEX

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1874

this one looks good for the money


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## sskyy

What tips do people recommend for the Hakko 936?


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## LED_astray

07accordEX said:


> ... this one looks good for the money



That looks like a Hakko 936 clone. It makes me glad I caught the real thing on sale:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=189833

Since it's not currently on sale, I'll point out an older thread with a lot of detail about the 936 clones:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/205141

No problem buying a clone as long as you get what you expect. (And I'll add, I don't know if the DX clone is like the ones in that review.)


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## 65535

I stay away from lead free at all costs. It's only good for plumbing. 60/40 or 63/37 is the way to go. I have had good luck with Alpha metals. I prefer a thin strand diameter. I forget what I have but it's thin. 

I recommend rosin core because you don't need to clean it. If you want it clean you can just use a brush with alcohol.


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## georges80

65535 said:


> I stay away from lead free at all costs. It's only good for plumbing. 60/40 or 63/37 is the way to go. I have had good luck with Alpha metals. I prefer a thin strand diameter. I forget what I have but it's thin.
> 
> I recommend rosin core because you don't need to clean it. If you want it clean you can just use a brush with alcohol.



Lead free solder works just fine for soldering electronics IF it is specified for that use. We're not talking the plumbing lead free - but the electronics grade lead free. It does require a bit more heat that the lead based solder, but it does work just fine.

Also, please DON'T use rosin core - it leaves a disgusting residue that is hard to determine if you have a good joint. There are plenty of quality no-clean flux solders out there these days that there really is no reason to revert to the old rosin core stuff. The modern no-clean fluxes basically vaporize on soldering and leave no to little residues.

Kester and Qualitek among others have excellent solders (both RMA and no-clean) lead free and lead based to choose from.

A no-clean flux pen is useful to aid in good joints when the no-clean flux in the solder is insufficient for the job. Handy to add a little flux to stranded wires prior to soldering.

For lead based the 63/37 works better than 60/40 - especially if you are worried about a dry joint due to jiggling things while the solder is cooling. The 63/37 has a very fast phase change that makes dry joints a lot less likely.

cheers,
george.


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## cy

totally agree a flux pen is the ticket! 
interesting comment about 63/37.. my 250g roll Kesler .5mm is 63/37. Hozan .3 mm 60/40 works well too. 

will use a HD flux cleaner just to be sure



georges80 said:


> Lead free solder works just fine for soldering electronics IF it is specified for that use. We're not talking the plumbing lead free - but the electronics grade lead free. It does require a bit more heat that the lead based solder, but it does work just fine.
> 
> Also, please DON'T use rosin core - it leaves a disgusting residue that is hard to determine if you have a good joint. There are plenty of quality no-clean flux solders out there these days that there really is no reason to revert to the old rosin core stuff. The modern no-clean fluxes basically vaporize on soldering and leave no to little residues.
> 
> Kester and Qualitek among others have excellent solders (both RMA and no-clean) lead free and lead based to choose from.
> 
> A no-clean flux pen is useful to aid in good joints when the no-clean flux in the solder is insufficient for the job. Handy to add a little flux to stranded wires prior to soldering.
> 
> For lead based the 63/37 works better than 60/40 - especially if you are worried about a dry joint due to jiggling things while the solder is cooling. The 63/37 has a very fast phase change that makes dry joints a lot less likely.
> 
> cheers,
> george.


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## georges80

cy said:


> totally agree a flux pen is the ticket!
> interesting comment about 63/37.. my 250g roll Kesler .5mm is 63/37. Hozan .3 mm 60/40 works well too.
> 
> will use a HD flux cleaner just to be sure



Google for "63/37 eutectic" and do some reading. You'll then learn about the benefits of the 63/37 for soldering and I'm pretty sure that will become your solder 'blend' of choice unless using lead free etc.

cheers,
george.


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## JJay03

I need to get me a new soldering iron also im thinking about that xytronic 379. What else should I pick up while im at it? I was just going to order it off amazon. I have soldered before also but is there any good threads with soldering tips?

Thanks


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## Anglepoise

I took Georges80 advice and got some clean flux solder 63/37 and it flows very nicely.


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## JJay03

I was looking at some of that most of it is in a 1 lb roll and like 39 dollars. Did you get the .015 or the .020 .Where you get the extra tips at couldnt find them on the howard electronics site.


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## cy

get .020 or 5mm unless you are only doing extra fine SMT size work. then get 3mm. pass on the 1lb roll... find a 250 gram roll of 63/37, which is still a LOT of solder. 

don't forget the flux pen...



JJay03 said:


> I was looking at some of that most of it is in a 1 lb roll and like 39 dollars. Did you get the .015 or the .020 .Where you get the extra tips at couldnt find them on the howard electronics site.


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## ODatsBright

I'll throw in a vote for the Hakko 936. Ready to solder in <30 seconds, easy to control and ultra reliable. I can't say enough about it. Bought a second one just to have a spare.


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## HarryN

Looking to update my soldering capability for some 26 awg braided wires.

Attempted to use a butane powered soldering iron and it has plenty of heating power, but I under estimated the effect of the hot gas coming out of the side.

Same as the others in the thread - studying soldering irons.

Since I am a beginner, but want to get good results as quickly as possible, I am willing to invest in a high quality tool, especially if it is made in North America or the EU.


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## Stoneking

HarryN said:


> I am willing to invest in a high quality tool, especially if it is made in North America or the EU.



Just recently picked up a Weller WE1010NA Digital Soldering Station, I highly recommend it!


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## HarryN

Stoneking said:


> Just recently picked up a Weller WE1010NA Digital Soldering Station, I highly recommend it!



Thanks. There is a surprisingly large price jump from the WE to the WT line, as well as almost too much knowledge to digest.

Did you also look at the WT line offering?

I have watched some videos about hot air soldering, esp for electronics components. Is that useful for small wire soldering or troublesome?

Right now I am using solder paste due to my historical challenges with wire solder vs better results with paste.

Thanks


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## turbodog

I'm using a weller with the temperature control tips you can swap out. The tip is nickel coated which means no rust, pitting, or corrosion.

It's 32 years old on the original tips. Sometimes I walk away and leave it plugged in for 1-2 days.

Here is the closest thing to it currently. Buy a variety of tips NOW while you can get them.

https://www.weller-tools.com/consum...g+Irons/Electronic,+Repair,+and+Everyday/WP35


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## staticx57

Pace ADS200 for sure. It is a professional tool made in the USA.


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## HarryN

Thanks for the suggestions. Still reading.

edit

I ended up ordering the WE 1010NA.

Clearly there is a difference going from this $100-150 equipment price point to the $350-400 point, but I decided that I needed to gain more experience at this mid level before putting in that much money.

In the meantime, I took the soldering tip off of the butane torch to use it just for point flame use and it is actually much better to use this way for soldering wires that aren't in a confined space. 

https://www.masterappliance.com/master-microtorch-mt-76/


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## HarryN

Just a follow up on this.

The standard tip that comes with the WE 1010NA is for soldering PCBs.

It is completely the wrong tip for soldering fine wires together and I was super unhappy.

I watched some videos and realized what most people already know - it is the heat stored in the tip that does the soldering. The heater in the soldering iron is just reheating the tip after the soldering is finished.

After buying the largest tips they make for this iron, I am very happy with how it works.

I am having to operate it at higher temperatures than I expected to make the lead free solder work vs lead based. It isn't just the higher melting point - something else is going on.


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## staticx57

Try adding more flux


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## timada126

Or led 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## sirpetr

Stoneking said:


> Just recently picked up a Weller WE1010NA Digital Soldering Station, I highly recommend it!



The same here. We use two Weller WX1012 (200W). I know, they are expensive, more expensive than any other solder station I previously had, and far more expensive than most of you are willing to pay, but they are worth its prize. They are working everyday reliably from the day we got them. We have two of them in service for 2 years and no need to change the tip. Heat up is very fast, few seconds to 350°C or 380°C and holds temperature well. 

I had before two cheap stations and was changing tips more frequently and repaired both of them numerous times. I still use one of them for small tip soldering.


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