# Problem with Surefire E2 Executive



## MyNameIsNeo (Sep 25, 2009)

I've had this original E2 Executive for years and I use Surefire branded batteries in it. It's always been a good little light, but I've started having a problem with it. Normally, I expect an incandescent light to become more and more dim over time. Lately, I've had the light to stop working with no warning. A first, I thought the bulb was blown, but a fresh set of batteries fixed the problem each time. Normally, I get a good long runtime out of my E2 before replacing the batteries.

Lately, I've started taking the E2 with me on my evening 3-mile runs. Since sweat gets all over the barrel, I rinse it under tap water after each run and dry it off with a towel. After once such rinse, I noticed condensation inside the lens. Upon disassembling the E2, I figured out that the head had worked loose during my run and water was able to get inside the light. I dried the entire light using a towel and "canned air" and allowed to air out. After reassembly, it worked fine.

Two nights ago, I rinsed the E2 after a run and it would not work. Again, a fresh set of batteries did the trick. I thought that the first set of batteries should still have been "fresh". So, I put them on the voltmeter and they both read ~2.89 V. For fun, I put the batteries in my Z2 LED and it worked although it was noticeably dim. Does anyone know what's going on here? TIA.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Sep 25, 2009)

MyNameIsNeo said:


> I've had this original E2 Executive for years and I use Surefire branded batteries in it. It's always been a good little light, but I've started having a problem with it. Normally, I expect an incandescent light to become more and more dim over time. Lately, I've had the light to stop working with no warning. A first, I thought the bulb was blown, but a fresh set of batteries fixed the problem each time. Normally, I get a good long runtime out of my E2 before replacing the batteries.
> 
> Lately, I've started taking the E2 with me on my evening 3-mile runs. Since sweat gets all over the barrel, I rinse it under tap water after each run and dry it off with a towel. After once such rinse, I noticed condensation inside the lens. Upon disassembling the E2, I figured out that the head had worked loose during my run and water was able to get inside the light. I dried the entire light using a towel and "canned air" and allowed to air out. After reassembly, it worked fine.
> 
> Two nights ago, I rinsed the E2 after a run and it would not work. Again, a fresh set of batteries did the trick. I thought that the first set of batteries should still have been "fresh". So, I put them on the voltmeter and they both read ~2.89 V. For fun, I put the batteries in my Z2 LED and it worked although it was noticeably dim. Does anyone know what's going on here? TIA.


My guess is that your bulb is dying.


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## Owen (Sep 25, 2009)

When you say "stop working", do you mean there is no light at all?
An E2 won't do that, unless you're somehow losing contact between connections.

You've just started having the problem, have just started running with the light, rinsing it off, and having the head work lose.
It's no coincidence that these things are all recent occurrences. 
I think the first thing you need is a new bezel o-ring.


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## MyNameIsNeo (Sep 25, 2009)

Owen said:


> When you say "stop working", do you mean there is no light at all?


 
That's correct...no light at all.


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## wrf (Sep 25, 2009)

MyNameIsNeo said:


> ...I've had the light to stop working with no warning. A first, I thought the bulb was blown...


 
I've had the same experience. I've depleted about 4 pairs of SF batteries in my E2e, and the first three pairs all had the sudden death syndrome. Not even a glowing filament. I was sure the bulb had blown at first, and even ordered a replacement -- but the replacement bulb did not change anything -- still no light. The last pair of batteries I depleted had the more familiar slowly dimming behaviour.

I can't really speculate for sure what is happening in your case. You have a lot more variables involved.

For me, it looks to be the batteries. I'm pretty sure the final pair I tried was a more recent batch of batteries than the first three. Also, in those first three sets, I tried the cells in my older E1L, and in each case one cell would light it strongly, and the other cell would only do moon mode.


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## leukos (Sep 25, 2009)

Lithium batteries and SF lamps do not behave like 2 D lights with alkalines. Lithium batteries run fast and hard with SF lamps, and when they are done the lamp is out, there is no sickly brown beam for hours. 

An E2e with fresh primaries should last about 70 minutes. An old lamp may have less resistance and burn faster. If you want longer runtimes, try an MN02, the output is fairly comparable to the MN03 to the human eye, but you get almost 2.5 hours of runtime.


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## thermal guy (Sep 25, 2009)

Batteries might be the problem. If they let up your Z2 LED and were dim they are low.That led is much more efficient then the E2.Plus on a volt metter they should be like 3.2.


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## angelofwar (Sep 25, 2009)

Ditto...2.89 is getting close to the end for SF batteries in there incan models...that's why you get an low out-put LED to use your "dead" cells!


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## Howecollc (Sep 26, 2009)

*Neo*

My incandescent G2 exhibits the same behavior you’ve described when its batteries near depletion; I think it’s normal behavior for Surefire lamps of this wattage. The output gets slightly dimmer then suddenly the bulb goes out completely. The voltage of the spent batteries usually registers around 2.75 volts. The spent cells then go to a buddy of mine who uses them in an Inova X5 for another 6 months.

So your E2 over the years hasn't always exhibited this behavior when the batteries become depleted?

About the water. Have you considered that the moisture inside may be creating a short, and quickly draining the batteries?



wrf said:


> Also, in those first three sets, I tried the cells in my older E1L, and in each case one cell would light it strongly, and the other cell would only do moon mode.


I've noticed many times when testing the voltage of spent cells that the cell located right behind the lamp is going to have a lower voltage than the cell at the tailcap. My experience has been mostly with rechargeables, but I'm fairly certain I have also seen this with primaries. Even after recharging and replacing the cells in the light in reverse order (initial front cell now in back), the result after discharge will be the same; the cell near the lamp will have the lower voltage. This is then obviously not a battery issue, but a physics of electron flow issue, I suppose.


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## MyNameIsNeo (Sep 26, 2009)

Thanks for all the advice, Guys. I've ordered a new set of O-rings for the E2 and I may be looking into a non-metallic light for my night runs. Also considering an L1 LumaMax LED to make full use of my batteries.


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## NE450No2 (Sep 26, 2009)

After I have used my lights a while with 123 primarys I change the order of them in the tube.

Been doing that for years.


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## computernut (Sep 27, 2009)

I have a brand new E2E BK with an MN02 that I've had two sets of batteries mysteriously die. One time I took it out of my bag and nothing out of the lamp, changed batteries and everything was fine. Second time I had used it the night before and in the morning all I got was a quick flicker and it died. Changing the batteries fixed it again. Both times the batteries weren't in it for very long so I'm thinking that my bag, pocket, or holster was activating it. I've started locking out the tailcap whenever I'm not using it.


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## ampdude (Sep 30, 2009)

Are you using quality CR123A batteries such as Duracell or Surefire?


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## MyNameIsNeo (Sep 30, 2009)

MyNameIsNeo said:


> I've had this original E2 Executive for years and I use Surefire branded batteries in it....


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## Chrontius (Sep 30, 2009)

I had the same problem! It was a vintage E2 roundbody. I never got mine wet, but... 

Three sets of batteries, Surefire, Energizer, and Duracell. All had SIDS, some died with only a minute of runtime. That's when I took to carrying _two_ lights.


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## Chrontius (Sep 30, 2009)

Howecollc said:


> I've noticed many times when testing the voltage of spent cells that the cell located right behind the lamp is going to have a lower voltage than the cell at the tailcap. My experience has been mostly with rechargeables, but I'm fairly certain I have also seen this with primaries. Even after recharging and replacing the cells in the light in reverse order (initial front cell now in back), the result after discharge will be the same; the cell near the lamp will have the lower voltage. This is then obviously not a battery issue, but a physics of electron flow issue, I suppose.



Heat. Remember, that cell is in contact with the lamp assembly.


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## SFG2Lman (Sep 30, 2009)

has the moisture caused any sort of corrosion/rust/film buildup where the body meets the head? maybe thats interfering with the contact, at full voltage the batteries can punch through it, but as they dwindle, they can no longer overcome the resistance? Hence the sudden light failure?


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## Chrontius (Sep 30, 2009)

Mine had some corrosion in the tailcap, but replacing the tailcap (Thanks, SureFire!) did nothing. Replacing it and ignoring the problem for six-odd months fixed it, though.

Edit: Wait, could the corrosion be retaining moisture, forming a high-resistance short?


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## ampdude (Oct 1, 2009)

Chrontius said:


> I had the same problem! It was a vintage E2 roundbody. I never got mine wet, but...
> 
> Three sets of batteries, Surefire, Energizer, and Duracell. All had SIDS, some died with only a minute of runtime. That's when I took to carrying _two_ lights.



Hmm. I used to use the old black E2 quite regularily back in the day and never had that problem. I usually got the 80 mins or so runtime with the MN03.

I've had aluminum corrosion on other things, not Surefires though. You're talking about that white buildup right?


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## Chrontius (Oct 1, 2009)

Yes, but I think it was on a stainless component in the tailcap.


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## SFG2Lman (Oct 1, 2009)

sometimes the corrosion isn't evident to the naked eye, perhaps running some steel wool lightly over the contacts of the head and body would help, if it does not help then we will know it wasn't corrosion and we can keep working the process of elimination (though a lot of these owners seem to have similar performance, so maybe its just time for a new bulb)


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## Chrontius (Oct 1, 2009)

I should mention my problem happened on a new in package bulb... 
Though switching back to the MN02, it's given me no issues.


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## ampdude (Oct 1, 2009)

Chrontius said:


> Yes, but I think it was on a stainless component in the tailcap.



Are you saying that you think there was corrosion on the stainless spring or nut?

I know stainless can rust, I've seen it many times, but if it happens, it can usually be wiped off or brushed off with some fine grain steel wool.

And it is orange, like regular rust, rather than white like aluminum oxidizing.

Some of the older twisty tailcaps have a hex attachment, but some don't and are probably not user removeable. I've removed the hex ones.


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## Chrontius (Oct 1, 2009)

It was white corrosion, and I was only moderately sure it was stainless... but it looked the part at the time. And huh, my Z52 has the hex-nut.


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## Solscud007 (Oct 3, 2009)

you might want to get some nyogel and new orings for the tail and bezel. that will help stop moisture from entering the light.


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## Chrontius (Oct 4, 2009)

Coincidentally, my problems mostly stopped when I used Magic Lube (swimming pool silicone lube/sealant) on the threads...


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