# P7 900 lumens MTE DX first impression



## cpfmember (Apr 15, 2008)

Hi everybody,

Sometimes there is something good being close to the supplier... Today arrive my new MTE P7 900 lumen light from DX.

My first thoughts:
- Packed as usual (yellow envelope with some bubbles around the flashlight)
- Flashlight is about the same size as a SF U2 (or its clones....)
- Anodizing looks good
- Front should be a glass lens

Now to the output:
- On high it draws 2.2 A from a freshly charged 18650; this is about 8W and around 650 lumens (on low 0.2 A)
- The 5 stages have a memory (even though I experience some time troubles to switch them)
- The only runtime test I did so fare was 10 min. the flashlight body gets warm quite soon (I good sign as the thermal pase is present) in the 10 min it does not get very hot.
- The output is very floody with no dougnet hole at all

I included some pictures of course:

The whole light






The front end





The P7 against a SF L1





The P7 against my modified U2 clone on 8 watt as well (as described in this thread:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/191449 )






The P7 against a T5





And to see a comparison the T5 against the U2 clone





In conclusion I would say its a nice flashlight for close range and most probably if not running too long at a time on high because of the missing heatsinking. 
I have the odd feeling the P7 is not as efficient compared to 4 single P4s or Crees. Even though the 4 led light have about the same output on paper they look much brighter. But for the pice worth it (so fare…) and at least for the moment the brightest (buyable) light for its size.

Cheers,

Dominic


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## TONY M (Apr 15, 2008)

Thanks for the review. I do see that the throw is not great. 
Are you saying that the lens is plastic?


Thanks


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## KRS1 (Apr 15, 2008)

Very disapointed at this light.


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## kramer5150 (Apr 15, 2008)

Reserving judgement for later. Can you take some outdoor beamshots? IMHO white wall pics tend to make lower Lumen lights appear brighter, when doing A/B comparisons.:thumbsup:

Is the P7 the big floody beam in your pics?


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## pbs357 (Apr 15, 2008)

Hmm... whitewall beamshots can be deceiving, I recall a similar view of pics taken of a P7 vs the Malkoff SSC mag module and the Malkoff looked brighter on the white wall, but in a comparison of practical beamshots (outdoors, at night) the P7 was the clear winner. The OP did mention it was the brightest buyable light to his knowledge in this sized package... 

Cpfmember, any chance you can take some outdoor nighttime comparisons?


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## neoseikan (Apr 15, 2008)

I hope some one could get a Lux value on the hot spot.


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## LightBeing (Apr 15, 2008)

Is the P7 on the left in all the beam shots? Thanks for the review.


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## cpfmember (Apr 15, 2008)

TONY M: from tapping on the lense I would say its glass

LightBeing: on the first 3 beamshots the P7 is on the left. in the 4th beamshot the P7 doesnt even appear...

I hear you, here are some beamshots, knowing that my camera is not the best to do with:

SF L1 (barely visible)





T5 (bright hot spot with less spill)





P7 (a lot of spill but no bright hot spot)





U2 clone (lot of spill an medium hot spot)





dont get me wrong, its not a bad flashlight, its just not a throw monster, but I wouldnt expect this from a light with this size. 
I am sure you can still impress quite a few people when showing them the light first on medium (comparable to a normal P4 or Cree light) and then have another step to go....


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## Wattnot (Apr 15, 2008)

cpfmember said:


> dont get me wrong, its not a bad flashlight, its just not a throw monster,


 
It doesn't look like a flood monster either. In fact, I wouldn't use the term "monster" at all. It's more like a "pip." Yes, I shall call it a "flood pip."

Lets hope for better with established mfg's.


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## BUZ (Apr 15, 2008)

Glad I canceled my order and got a refund!


The reflector looks horrible, think the one @ KD will provide a nice hotspot and better throw since it's smooth!


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## Supernam (Apr 15, 2008)

BUZ said:


> Glad I canceled my order and got a refund!
> The reflector looks horrible, think the one @ KD will provide a nice hotspot and better throw since it's smooth!



I wouldn't bet on it, but we'll have to wait and see. I think it'll suffer from the same small reflector problem AND have a donut hole. Using a smooth reflector in my P7 Mag, there was a donut hole. I had to sputter the reflector before it disappeared. 


It seems to me that this particular light has a poorly designed reflector. Clearly, the huge die area needs a bigger reflector to catch all the spill and direct it forward. 2.2A is quite a significant amount of current and the light should appear much brighter spill and throw wise. My P7 Mag was the most ridiculous thing I've ever seen from a single emitter.


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## TONY M (Apr 15, 2008)

pbs357 said:


> Hmm... whitewall beamshots can be deceiving, I recall a similar view of pics taken of a P7 vs the Malkoff SSC mag module and the Malkoff looked brighter on the white wall, but in a comparison of practical beamshots (outdoors, at night) the P7 was the clear winner.


 
pbs357, whitewall shots can be misleading at times. 
As an photographer I do think that many whitewall shots are overexposed - therefore making 2 very different hotspots that may differ in brightness greatly appear much more similar than the naked eye sees them(this is a HUGE problem with digital cameras. 

Having two pictures, one overexposed shot (mainly to show spill brightness) and one underexposed shot (to show hotspot intensity) is easy and a great way to compare seperate lights/beams!


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## vinsanity286 (Apr 15, 2008)

Does the MTE come with a C bin or a B bin? With no firsthand experience with P7's I am speaking out my *** here but I would think a B bin is quite a bit brighter to the eye than a C bin. Either way the tint on that emitter is terrible! Still pretty bright though.


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## Gunner12 (Apr 15, 2008)

The bigger emitting surface would make this light less of a thrower. More of a flood light.

I'd say it's a Middle Monster!

Thanks for the review!


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## KRS1 (Apr 15, 2008)

LOL 

I purchase 2 of this similar light from KD i hope it doesnt turn out like this also. I might just cancel 1 and purchase 1 for test out.

Mine was shipped yesturday from DX  yeh i think i got way better light then this from 3 cree MX, M-c3 3cree and T4 will kick this light.

Man i think im going to mod ot my self using MRV host with direct drive from 18650. MRV reflector should give me a nice beam with some good hot spot.

SAD:mecry: :mecry:


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## Kraid (Apr 15, 2008)

I'd love to see this LED in a P60 format by a quality company like Dereelight. And it'd be even better if they used 4x R2 dies. Not only because they're brighter, but because the tint is MUCH nicer.


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## roadie (Apr 15, 2008)

abit yucky

sad to see the outcome is no better than what it shld had been.

thanks for the review, noted.


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## WadeF (Apr 15, 2008)

Keep in mind the U2 the P7 is up against is rated at 1,000 lumens.  This light appears to be very floody, so it wouldn't be hard for a lower lumen light to produce a brighter hot spot if it has a tight beam, like the L1. Look at the size of the hot spot it produces, it's huge compared to the L1, and it's hard to see what kind of spill it has in the beam shots. This thing could be a serious "wall of light" and all the lumens it is putting out maybe spread out all over the place. This doesn't look like a thrower, but it maybe great for shorter range applications where you need a lot of light spread out over a wide area. 

Can't wait to get mine and see what it does.


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## swxb12 (Apr 16, 2008)

cpfmember, I hope you don't mind but I adjusted the curve values for your outdoor shots for comparison:






The P7 shot came out a little blue so I went ahead and desaturated all the pics.


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## Glowjob (Apr 16, 2008)

Did it come out blue because of the LED, or was it just your camera?


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## bspofford (Apr 16, 2008)

*"900 Lumens"* :lolsign:


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## X-or (Apr 16, 2008)

bspofford said:


> *"900 Lumens"* :lolsign:



Am I the only one who can´t seem to grasp what in this review that people are so dissapointed about?

Is it the floodyness instead of trow or am I missing something?


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## kramer5150 (Apr 16, 2008)

X-or said:


> Am I the only one who can´t seem to grasp what in this review that people are so dissapointed about?
> 
> Is it the floodyness instead of trow or am I missing something?



IMHO its pretty impressive. Keep in mind that its only $45, and its blasting out a huge wall of light. That could be very useful for things other than lighting through the trees at 100 yards.


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## Jarl (Apr 16, 2008)

It's the fact that there's no way it's 900 lumens.

editted to correct typo.


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## kramer5150 (Apr 16, 2008)

Jarl said:


> It's the fact that there's no way it's 500 lumens.



That doesn't make it a poor performing light, just over-rated. I may have a different perspective though, I've learned to disregard spec sheets and manufacturer claims when evaluating consumer products, I EXPECT them to lie and embellish.


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## swxb12 (Apr 16, 2008)

Glowjob said:


> Did it come out blue because of the LED, or was it just your camera?



I suspect the P7 LED in this case has a blueish tint. I Just took a second look at cpfmember's indoor couch shots.


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## swxb12 (Apr 16, 2008)

Even the tree shot doesn't really give a full idea of this light's output. A lot of it is just scattered outwards.

We might need a more high tech test here... the ceiling bounce.


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## pbs357 (Apr 16, 2008)

Cieling bounce would be great. Or, an outdoor shot at a target like a tool shed would be good too. Skyward beamshots do scatter light in all directions, and unless you do a lot of tree lighting, may not be the best way to compare. Though I will say excellent effort on all the beamshots so far, thank you again!


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## easilyled (Apr 16, 2008)

pbs357 said:


> Cieling bounce would be great. Or, an outdoor shot at a target like a tool shed would be good too. Skyward beamshots do scatter light in all directions, and unless you do a lot of tree lighting, may not be the best way to compare. Though I will say excellent effort on all the beamshots so far, thank you again!



+1 for ceiling bounce test please.

I had a shipping notification email, so I'll let you know my impressions
when it arrives.


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## Jay T (Apr 16, 2008)

pbs357 said:


> Cieling bounce would be great.



Mine has shipped, once it gets here it's going to a party in the bathroom with a 1,000 Lumen Ostar Mag, some multi emitter lights and a light meter.


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## PayBack (Apr 17, 2008)

kramer5150 said:


> x2... IMHO its pretty impressive. Keep in mind that its only $45, and its blasting out a huge wall of light. That could be very useful for things other than lighting through the trees at 100 yards.




+3. I have a thower, so having something that size that puts out about the same as my (much larger) WF-500 will be great at short / Medium range. I mean once I get my Fenix 18650 light my DX light will still be useful for impressing the peasants


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## AvPD (Apr 17, 2008)

cpfmember said:


> I have the odd feeling the P7 is not as efficient compared to 4 single P4s or Crees.



This one uses a C-bin P7, which is rated at 700-800 lumens (data sheet). If a 900 lumen E-bin P7 (consuming 10 watts) is rated at 90 lumens per watt, this bin would be 70 lumens (minimum) per watt. This is equivalent to a Cree P4 (71 lm/w minimum), or a T2-bin SSC P4.


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## WadeF (Apr 17, 2008)

Jarl said:


> It's the fact that there's no way it's 500 lumens.


 
Wow, impressive you were able to come up with a fact like that based on some beam shots that didn't really show the full extent of the spill.


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## maxilux (Apr 17, 2008)

Puuhhh, what a luck it was out of stock when i want to buy, thanks for report it saves my money


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## Jarl (Apr 17, 2008)

WadeF said:


> Wow, impressive you were able to come up with a fact like that based on some beam shots that didn't really show the full extent of the spill.



I typo'd- meant 900 lumens. There's no way it's 900 lumens because the current draw is 2.2A on a fully charged 18650 according to the OP. This is not enough current to power the LED at it's maximum of 2.8A, where it gives out 900 lumens (theoretical if you're very very lucky)


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## AvPD (Apr 18, 2008)

Jarl said:


> maximum of 2.8A, where it gives out 900 lumens (theoretical




700 lumens for the bin used in this torch.


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## phantom23 (Apr 18, 2008)

C-bin is 700-800 lumens now (B 540-700, D 800-900lm).


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## floodlight (Apr 19, 2008)

Cree and SSC use the same LED's but are very different in the way they direct "lights". Cree leds directs almost all its "light" forward out the front and creates a very intense hot spot (i.e., think spot light). SSC directs its "light" in all directions and gives a smooth wall of light with just a slightly brighter center (i.e., think flood light).

Cree is best for thrower and SSC is best for floodlight. From my experience, a Cree light will always seem brighter than the SSC light because of the intense hot spot. In terms of total lumen, it might be totally different story.

The P7 is a SSC led. It is supposed to give out a wall of light without an intense hot spot.


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## Carbonium (Apr 19, 2008)

cpfmember said:


> Now to the output:
> - On high it draws 2.2 A from a freshly charged 18650; this is about 8W and around 650 lumens (on low 0.2 A)
> -
> Dominic




I have modded five SSC CSW0I's and two CSW0J's all direct-drive setups into various flashlights that take 17670's 18650's and 3D 10,000 nimh's. In every case my $200 Fluke Digital Ohm meter on 10 Amps gives a much lower Amp reading then my 200 Amp Shunt. 

My Fluke was showing 2.1 amps on my 18650 CSWOJ's yet I see 2.9 amps on my shunt using CSWOI's direct-drive. Many of even my new 18650's can't even deliver over 2-2.2 amps using CSWOJ's yet the truefire trustfire grey wrapper 18650's hit 3 amps no problems direct-drive.

The brand of 18650 you install has a big impact on your output.

When I tried direct-driving a Dorcy 3D using a CSWOJ and 10,000 nimh's my fluke registered 2.8 amps yet my shunt was showing 5.2 amps! You really need a shunt to current test these higher amperage P7's. Most DMM's even on 10 amp setting will have too much resistance in the leads to be accurate.

These new SSC P7's are awesome LED's


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## phantom23 (Apr 19, 2008)

floodlight said:


> Cree and SSC use the same LED's but are very different in the way they direct "lights". Cree leds directs almost all its "light" forward out the front and creates a very intense hot spot (i.e., think spot light). SSC directs its "light" in all directions and gives a smooth wall of light with just a slightly brighter center (i.e., think flood light).
> 
> Cree is best for thrower and SSC is best for floodlight. From my experience, a Cree light will always seem brighter than the SSC light because of the intense hot spot. In terms of total lumen, it might be totally different story.
> 
> The P7 is a SSC led. It is supposed to give out a wall of light without an intense hot spot.



It works a bit different. Yes, SSC LEDs illuminate almost 180 degrees (Cree 135) but to create bright hotspot you need a reflector. And now SSC is better because you have more light on the sides to focus. That's why Cree throwers have deep reflectors (that's the only way to "reach" some light). Seoul with dedicated reflector can be a great thrower too.


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## JamisonM (Apr 19, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> It works a bit different. Yes, SSC LEDs illuminate almost 180 degrees (Cree 135) but to create bright hotspot you need a reflector. And now SSC is better because you have more light on the sides to focus. That's why Cree throwers have deep reflectors (that's the only way to "reach" some light). Seoul with dedicated reflector can be a great thrower too.


I, for one, wouldn't mind seeing how some of these dedicated CREE thrower lights stacked up against a SSC based light with a reflector designed for the LED in it. In all the comparisons I've seen, the only competition I remember seeing were SSC modded maglites.


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## zerafull (Apr 20, 2008)

how many lux at one meter please ? any idea ?

its possible a good throw with bezel of diameter of 3,7 cm maximum for the large P7 led ?


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## Photon_Whisperer (Apr 20, 2008)

Lots of hand wringing. Was anybody really expecting 900 lumens? The light still puts out more lumens than anything else commercially available at this form factor. Flood is not always a bad thing. Plus it's freakin $45.


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## cranphin (Apr 29, 2008)

I'm still waiting for my order ^_^

It's still probably more output then my other lights, and floody is -fine-, that's what I'm expecting from this light, they clearly threw it together quickly, I'm not expecting a reflector that's even made for the p7 

I'f I want beam, I'll get out one of my MRV's 

I want/expect this thing to blow away my friends when I turn it on in a dark room 

I did swap the order for the new 2-mode though, hopefully it'll be here a bit sooner, and I've never liked too many modes (and mayby the drive is better, any guesses?  ).

(Ohyeah, and it -is- but 45$, which isn't too much especially if you're payin in euro's  )

A year from now we'll have the 150$ extreme throwing Fenix/Lumapower/Etc. models, for now this'll keep me happy while waiting ^.^


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## easilyled (Apr 29, 2008)

cranphin said:


> I'm still waiting for my order ^_^
> It's still probably more output then my other lights, and floody is -fine-, that's what I'm expecting from this light, they clearly threw it together quickly, I'm not expecting a reflector that's even made for the p7



In that case, you'll be pleasantly surprised 

The reflector does a surprisingly good job IMO.

No doughnut beam, just a very pleasant medium flood with plenty
of punch to reach out on high.


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## ledaholic (Apr 29, 2008)

Just got mine today. Build quality not too bad, I've seen worse, body is pretty beefy, threads clean but dry, LED not centered very good, output less than I expected. Hooked up meter, 1.2A at tail end, have to do something about that. A little playing around with reflector, I decided to experiment with LED depth, unscrewing the pill a turn or so brings the emitter up to the bottom of the reflector giving it a little better hot spot and better centering, think i'll leave it there after I apply a little goop to the threads of the pill. When I get more time, I'll see if I can get a little more current to the LED.

Oh, the 5 modes and memory work well.


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## seattlite (Apr 29, 2008)

I received my MTE P7 over the weekend and I don’t understand all the comments of "output is less than I expected". I know that I wasn’t expecting 900L, but I was expecting >200L. When I fired up the light, I was pleasantly surprised at the light output from ONE 18650 cell. I did some light meter/light box tests, and the light output was about 2.5x the light output from a P3D/Rebel 100/2xRCR123's. This is DARN GOOD for a stock, ~$50USD Light!

I also like the "wall of light" the light produces. You won't get throw, but it certainly floods an area with LOTS OF LIGHT.

In short, I was pleasantly surprised from my first P7 light, and look forward to future lights with the P7 emitter.


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## easilyled (Apr 29, 2008)

ledaholic said:


> Just got mine today. Build quality not too bad, I've seen worse, body is pretty beefy, threads clean but dry, LED not centered very good, output less than I expected. Hooked up meter, 1.2A at tail end, have to do something about that. A little playing around with reflector, I decided to experiment with LED depth, unscrewing the pill a turn or so brings the emitter up to the bottom of the reflector giving it a little better hot spot and better centering, think i'll leave it there after I apply a little goop to the threads of the pill. When I get more time, I'll see if I can get a little more current to the LED.
> 
> Oh, the 5 modes and memory work well.



How did you remove the pill?

My bezel seems to be epoxied onto the cell-body and I'm afraid to
use too much force in trying to twist it off.


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## easilyled (Apr 29, 2008)

seattlite said:


> I received my MTE P7 over the weekend and I don’t understand all the comments of "output is less than I expected". I know that I wasn’t expecting 900L, but I was expecting >200L. When I fired up the light, I was pleasantly surprised at the light output from ONE 18650 cell. I did some light meter/light box tests, and the light output was about 2.5x the light output from a P3D/Rebel 100/2xRCR123's. This is DARN GOOD for a stock, ~$50USD Light!
> 
> I also like the "wall of light" the light produces. You won't get throw, but it certainly floods an area with LOTS OF LIGHT.
> 
> In short, I was pleasantly surprised from my first P7 light, and look forward to future lights with the P7 emitter.



I completely agree. So many people seem disappointed. I was pleasantly
surprised.


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## ledaholic (Apr 29, 2008)

I didn't say I was dissapointed, I just said it had less output than I was expecting. I actually like the light, especially the low mode. I may have gotten an emitter with a higher vf than some of the others, no big deal, it still puts out a lot of light for a single cell 18650.

To remove the pill, unscrew the bezel then using needle nose pliars or the equivelent, unscrew the pill or actually the entire light engine unit. My light had no glue on it anywhere. If you unscrew it far enough for the reflector bottom to rest on the emitter, it will center the emitter and give it a tighter beam. ymmv.

Bob


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## daich (Apr 29, 2008)

anyone try sticking in two cr123's in there? or RCR123's?


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## easilyled (Apr 30, 2008)

daich said:


> anyone try sticking in two cr123's in there? or RCR123's?



Not advisable.

You'll blow the p7 which is the most expensive part of the light. 

Its direct drive and the 18650 is 4.2v fully charged. This probably
is the most the P7 should take for its Vf.


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## Mike Painter (Apr 30, 2008)

easilyled said:


> Not advisable.
> 
> You'll blow the p7 which is the most expensive part of the light.
> 
> ...



How are the various stages handled?

If it is direct drive, then buying it might be the cheapest way to build a custom light.
You would have the emitter, some sort of heat sink, and a module to handle high, low, etc.
Buying these individually would cost more than that.


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## David Gretzmier (May 1, 2008)

I've read a couple of other threads on this light, no one seems to answer the question- does improving the wiring, and going with the better truefire 18650's above, increase the output of this light? many folks seem to mention that it is not doing all it can, it needs more current, but I have not yet heard from anyone that compares a before and after situation. folka have mentioned they fixed this or that, but then no comment on the results. I have one of these on the way, and I am wanting it to be all it can be with the best battery etc.


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## ledaholic (May 1, 2008)

David Gretzmier said:


> I've read a couple of other threads on this light, no one seems to answer the question- does improving the wiring, and going with the better truefire 18650's above, increase the output of this light? .




I went to a larger guage of wire in mine, can't really see any difference. I don't have a light meter so I can't measure it. I don't have any Truefire batteries, but tried all the different cells in my possesion and only noticed a difference with cells that were not fresh off the charger.


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## Dodge (May 1, 2008)

DX are still out of the 5-mode light, but have a very similar looking two-mode version for a couple of bucks less. Has anyone got this yet? Think I'd prefer two modes.

Also claims to have an "aluminum reflector" - so presumably not just a simple driver exchange.


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## daich (May 2, 2008)

I'll trade someone my 5 mode for a 2 mode.

My light is stock and I only have trustfire unprotected blue cells.
It is slightly brighter right off the charger, but not for very long at all.


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## RustyKnee (May 2, 2008)

Got mine today. I have to wait for the dark before i have a proper opinion. But so far for the money.....its a good light. The beam is blochy on a white wall, but its bright. My only complant is it flickers on low. For the money I am impressed though. It feels cheap....but it is cheap. This is going to be my beater light.

Stu


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## Mayqswet (May 3, 2008)

I got mine a few days ago and have compared it to the Romsen Cree x 4 and the Inova T5-MP. The beam pattern is just as smooth, but brighter than the T5 (and a little bit whiter) and spreads a little more than the Romsen. The Romsen has a brighter hot spot, but the beam is not nearly as smooth. I'm looking forward to trying this out on my bike.

Mayqswet


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## Photon_Whisperer (May 5, 2008)

easilyled said:


> Its direct drive



You sure of that?


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## uluapoundr (May 5, 2008)

I was going to change the wires as they are super thin, not sure what gauge. When I was removing the pill, I accidently popped off the emitter, it was barely soldered on. So, since I had it off, I epoxied it to a P7 heatsink for maglite and dropped it direct drive in my 3D mag, what a huge difference. The beam is not as clean with the stock mag reflector, but it's super bright and adjustable. Not sure what bin this emitter is, but it's a lot brighter than when it was in the MTE. 

I think I'll throw a P4 in the MTE since I have it all apart. I didn't take beamshots when I had the MTE together, but if anyone wants to see the potential of this emitter, I'll post beamshots of it my maglite.


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## Drywolf (May 5, 2008)

I like this light. I've owned it for a couple of weeks and I use it a lot. It gets hot, but not so much at night. I use the surefire light diffuser (U2)and I'm a happy camper.


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## easilyled (May 5, 2008)

Photon_Whisperer said:


> You sure of that?




I've looked at a lot of threads about this light and there is some
more feedback on the Dx site.

From everything I've read, yes, it seems to suggest that its direct-drive
with PWM for the different levels.

This would be the cheapest set-up and not very surprising for a light of
its price.


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## Dr.Skaramanga (May 5, 2008)

today i recived my mte p7 flashligt, an it doesnt seem to bee that bright compared to ohter q5 lights
so i made a measurment
my light draws only 1.9Amps @ high
do you think its only because of the 18650 i use
this are protected trustfires from dx
is there any brand that delivers a higer current ?
thanks
Greetings
Dr.


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## fxstsb (May 5, 2008)

Do you have other 18650s? I would not expect full output unless ~2.8 amps are drawn.


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## PhotonChaser (May 5, 2008)

uluapoundr said:


> I was going to change the wires as they are super thin, not sure what gauge. When I was removing the pill, I accidently popped off the emitter, it was barely soldered on. So, since I had it off, I epoxied it to a P7 heatsink for maglite and dropped it direct drive in my 3D mag, what a huge difference. The beam is not as clean with the stock mag reflector, but it's super bright and adjustable. Not sure what bin this emitter is, but it's a lot brighter than when it was in the MTE.
> 
> I think I'll throw a P4 in the MTE since I have it all apart. I didn't take beamshots when I had the MTE together, but if anyone wants to see the potential of this emitter, I'll post beamshots of it my maglite.



So exactly how did you remove the pill? Does it screw out counter-clockwise?


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## ledaholic (May 5, 2008)

PhotonChaser said:


> So exactly how did you remove the pill? Does it screw out counter-clockwise?




Yes


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## PhotonChaser (May 5, 2008)

ledaholic said:


> Yes



Thanks!


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## LEDninja (May 6, 2008)

fxstsb said:


> Do you have other 18650s? I would not expect full output unless ~2.8 amps are drawn.


The max current without upgrading the wires is 2.2A. (both OP & Kai Domain)
I got 2.1A with freshly charged Ultrafire protected gray battery. Once the initial voltage spike is over I get 1.7-1.8A.
Someone replaced the wires with a heavier gauge and got the full 2.8A.


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## toby_pra (May 6, 2008)

I am also very disappointed at this light. Its not really bright
for its SSC P7...:candle:


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## Dr.Skaramanga (May 6, 2008)

so do you think its only becaus of the resistance of the small wires ?


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## ledaholic (May 6, 2008)

Dr.Skaramanga said:


> so do you think its only becaus of the resistance of the small wires ?



I finally got around to working on mine, the first thing I did was replace the wires with larger wire. I didn't notice any real difference, but all I have is my eyes to see any difference. Yesterday, I removed the pill, looked at the controller board and noticed three low value resistors in parallel and decided they must be the current limiter. I jumpered the resistors with a wire and am now a happy camper. I am now getting right 2.8A on a fresh charged 18650. If the photons out the front were a little more collimated, this would be a killer thrower. As it is, it throws pretty good, it just lights up everything in the way, out of the way, and all around! :twothumbs The more I use it, the more I like it. YMMV

Bob


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## easilyled (May 6, 2008)

ledaholic said:


> I finally got around to working on mine, the first thing I did was replace the wires with larger wire. I didn't notice any real difference, but all I have is my eyes to see any difference. Yesterday, I removed the pill, looked at the controller board and noticed three low value resistors in parallel and decided they must be the current limiter. I jumpered the resistors with a wire and am now a happy camper. I am now getting right 2.8A on a fresh charged 18650. If the photons out the front were a little more collimated, this would be a killer thrower. As it is, it throws pretty good, it just lights up everything in the way, out of the way, and all around! :twothumbs The more I use it, the more I like it. YMMV
> 
> Bob



Well done. My head is firmly epoxied onto my cell tube so I can't really get
at the pill 

One wonders why they felt the need to add this resistance since it doesn't
seem to be necessary. (2.8A is the correct drive level for the P7)


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## ledaholic (May 6, 2008)

easilyled said:


> Well done. My head is firmly epoxied onto my cell tube so I can't really get
> at the pill



Sure you can, you don't need to remave the head, just the bezel/reflector. Pull the reflector then with needlenose or equivelent unscrew the pill.


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## easilyled (May 6, 2008)

ledaholic said:


> Sure you can, you don't need to remave the head, just the bezel/reflector. Pull the reflector then with needlenose or equivelent unscrew the pill.



That's good to know, thanks.


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## PhotonChaser (May 6, 2008)

ledaholic said:


> I finally got around to working on mine, the first thing I did was replace the wires with larger wire. I didn't notice any real difference, but all I have is my eyes to see any difference. Yesterday, I removed the pill, looked at the controller board and noticed three low value resistors in parallel and decided they must be the current limiter. I jumpered the resistors with a wire and am now a happy camper. I am now getting right 2.8A on a fresh charged 18650. If the photons out the front were a little more collimated, this would be a killer thrower. As it is, it throws pretty good, it just lights up everything in the way, out of the way, and all around! :twothumbs The more I use it, the more I like it. YMMV
> 
> Bob



Ok, so I replaced the wires to heavier gauge and shorted across the resistors and tested it. Success! Slightly over 2.8Amps on a fresh charged 18650! I am very pleased with the 'Wall of Light' it puts out.
Thanks a bunch!

PC


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## uluapoundr (May 6, 2008)

PhotonChaser said:


> Ok, so I replaced the wires to heavier gauge and shorted across the resistors and tested it. Success! Slightly over 2.8Amps on a fresh charged 18650! I am very pleased with the 'Wall of Light' it puts out.
> Thanks a bunch!
> 
> PC


 Good news! I knew the LED had the potential. Wondering if the resistors are to control heat. I would assume this little light will heat up as my 3D mag gets hot with a larger heatsink, but since you have multimode, you won't have to leave it on high all the time.


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## kwarwick (May 6, 2008)

uluapoundr said:


> Good news! I knew the LED had the potential. Wondering if the resistors are to control heat. I would assume this little light will heat up as my 3D mag gets hot with a larger heatsink, but since you have multimode, you won't have to leave it on high all the time.



Agreed, I'm sure the resistors are there for a reason. I can't see MTE purposely limiting the output unless it was seen as necessary. I'd like to hear more from people who run this for a while on high with those resistors bypassed to see if this leads to the magic smoke escaping.


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## daich (May 7, 2008)

just bridged my resistors. Doesn't seem brighter to the eye. anyone have some measurements b4 and after?


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## lctorana (May 7, 2008)

How do you rewire it to get a single mode?


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## ledaholic (May 7, 2008)

lctorana said:


> How do you rewire it to get a single mode?



Easy, just remove the pill, remove the controller board and you have direct drive/single mode. You can also take the switch assembly apart, remove the solder bridge and insert a resistor for low mode if you want a 2 mode light.


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## pbs357 (May 7, 2008)

Awesome! Ledaholic and Photonchaser, any chance you could take a pic of the bridged resistors (for the component identification-challenged)? :thinking: 

Thanks! :wave:


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## daich (May 7, 2008)

ok, well, I took out the circuit board and I used much thicker wire too.
It is noticably brighter.
Is the circuit board that limiting even with the bridged resistors or was it just the wires? if it's just the wires, I may put the circuit back in with those resistors bridged.


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## daich (May 7, 2008)

What would cause a direct driven light to flicker?

my guess is either the switch or battery.

I'm using DX trustfire 2500's unprotected if that matters.

it's annoying.


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## Mungon (May 7, 2008)

ledaholic said:


> I finally got around to working on mine, the first thing I did was replace the wires with larger wire. I didn't notice any real difference, but all I have is my eyes to see any difference. Yesterday, I removed the pill, looked at the controller board and noticed three low value resistors in parallel and decided they must be the current limiter. I jumpered the resistors with a wire and am now a happy camper. I am now getting right 2.8A on a fresh charged 18650. If the photons out the front were a little more collimated, this would be a killer thrower. As it is, it throws pretty good, it just lights up everything in the way, out of the way, and all around! :twothumbs The more I use it, the more I like it. YMMV
> 
> Bob


Woul it be posible to get a pic or two ? how you jumpered the resistors with a wire , I dont have the know how ?


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## Dodge (May 7, 2008)

Got my two-mode version today. As far as I can see, there's just a simple resistor in the switch, and otherwise it's direct drive. So the tail switch alternates between bright (0.5 ohms) and dim (8.6 ohms). If I connect my multimeter in place of the switch, it draws 2.4 amps (Trustfire protected cell, 3.86v, so not fully charged). 

Not sure if that 0.5 ohm resistance would make any difference to the current (though I guess I should be able to work it out).


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## PhotonChaser (May 7, 2008)

pbs357 said:


> Awesome! Ledaholic and Photonchaser, any chance you could take a pic of the bridged resistors (for the component identification-challenged)? :thinking:
> 
> Thanks! :wave:









This is a picture prior to adding the bridge. Those three resistors are in parallel and all you need to do is solder a small wire from one side to the other.

PC


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## Mungon (May 7, 2008)

Very helping thank you


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## TomBrown (May 7, 2008)

Does anyone know the drive current on low and medium with the resistors bridged?

I'd love to have 90 minutes of run time on medium with a 45 minute turbo mode available, if I need it.


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## tvodrd (May 7, 2008)

I just found this thread, and mine arrived single mode. I loaded a couple SF123 primaries and tail-capped .38A after being disappointed with the output. Someone suggested I try an Li-ion, and I tried a ~16850 hot off the charger, which woke it up! (2.4A at the tailcap according to my Fluke!) As of today it has decided to be a 5-mode with the strobe and SOS. :thumbsdown: Add that I lack a clue now as to what level/mode is going to come up after it's sat for a while. :thumbsdown:

I did a ceiling-bounce against my SF M6/mn21 with fresh cells and got 9.75 Lux for the DX vs 17.9 for the M6. Ordered some 18650s on general principal. It makes a lot of light, and even with the poorly-centered LED, there is no hole in the beam. Otherwise, mechanical fit and finish are decent. Window is glass, but the head has been "epoxied." 

I see the Seoul P7 as having potential in portable illumination tools!

Larry


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## David Gretzmier (May 7, 2008)

Thoughts from a newbie...

Got mine today. I really wish I had the two mode, as I am not used to turning it on and not knowing what mode is up. I am used to the fenix reset to medium every time after it sits. 

I did the two primary thing, on fresh surefires- ( they have them at Lowes now, 2 for 5 bucks, not too bad ) and was plenty happy with the beam for now. compared to my fenix p1d q5 on turbo, I'd have to say high on the p7 was easily 3x the lumens. This thing REALLY lights up the backyard. It's definetly my "what's that noise in the backyard" flashlight. 

If the fenix is 180 lumens out the front, then p7 on 2 primaries it was every bit of 530-550 lumens out front. I will do the 18650 thing when my cells and charger show up, meanwhile I will try to take this apart and do the wire and resistor jumper thing. 

I have a multi meter, but have not read far back enough on the threads to know how to measure amps. I have a clamp meter to measure amps at 120 volts AC, but if someone could post a thread on how to do it with DC and a flashlight, that'd be great.


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## ledaholic (May 8, 2008)

I think the problem people are having with the modes changing is due to not understanding the UI. I have found on mine that the "timing" is a little different than most other multi mode lights I have. On the MTE, turn on the light and leave it on for 5-8 seconds then turn it off. Turn it on again and it should be @ the same level as it was when turned off. To switch between modes, turn it on and wait at least 1 second then press the switch and it will go to the next level. This is where it differs from most other lights, we the operator have been programmed  to try to switch between modes quickly and this light requires a pause before you switch. Once you find the desired level lleave it there for 5-8 seconds or it will go to the next level the next time it is turned on. Once I figured this out, mine has been flawless. I have been using it a lot and and like it more and more all the time. 

Bob


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## Photon_Whisperer (May 8, 2008)

Should there be thermal compound between the emitter and the "star". I just pulled my pill out trying to fix my 5-mode that keeps cutting out. I notice there is a ~.5mm gap between the star base and the black plastic base of the emitter. I can't see the center though to determine if there's anything in the middle that conducts the heat.


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## ledaholic (May 8, 2008)

Photon_Whisperer said:


> Should there be thermal compound between the emitter and the "star". I just pulled my pill out trying to fix my 5-mode that keeps cutting out. I notice there is a ~.5mm gap between the star base and the black plastic base of the emitter. I can't see the center though to determine if there's anything in the middle that conducts the heat.



No, the emitter should be soldered to the star. The emitter has a metal slug under the black plastic that protrudes about that much. The star conducts the heat from the emitter to the sink. There should be compound between the star and the sink. I also put some goop on the pill threads.


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## ledaholic (May 8, 2008)

Oh, Photon_Whisperer, about your cutting out problem, remove the tail cap and bridge the tube to the battery and see if it still cuts out. If it doesn't, you have a flaky switch.


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## Photon_Whisperer (May 8, 2008)

ledaholic said:


> Oh, Photon_Whisperer, about your cutting out problem, remove the tail cap and bridge the tube to the battery and see if it still cuts out. If it doesn't, you have a flaky switch.



Thanks, didn't work. Seems like a load or thermal issue, it consistently cuts out about 5 secs ofter being on high.


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## tvodrd (May 8, 2008)

Sure it ain't the SOS mode?  (Mine has the slowest SOS I have ever seen! Of course, being an Extra class ham.... Heck I can SOS faster on my twisty avatar!)

Edit: David Gretzmier, Measuring the LED current is not usually a convenient option, but on most lights you can measure the input current from the batteries with the light's tailcap removed. Set your DMM to amps, and apply the neg probe to the end of the cell, and the pos probe to the threads, or a conductive part of the body (SF). Typical converter efficiencies are ~85% so you can get a general idea what the LED is seeing.

ledaholic, thanks for explaining the UI to this geezer!

Larry


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## Markcm (May 9, 2008)

Photon_Whisperer said:


> Thanks, didn't work. Seems like a load or thermal issue, it consistently cuts out about 5 secs ofter being on high.



Is it possibly your battery cutting out, rather than the light?


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## ledaholic (May 9, 2008)

tvodrd said:


> ledaholic, thanks for explaining the UI to this geezer!
> 
> Larry



No problem
73's N5TLS


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## Northern Lights (May 9, 2008)

My 5 mode arrived last night. Works great. Brightest 65mm light I own. SOS is slow. The strobe is great. Showed other officers today and they are buying them now because of the size and tactical advantage.

But I was wondering has anyone compared them to DIY P7 mods in D and Cs for brightness? Why build a light if this is close to max output.

Has anyone compared the output to the Rominsen 4x Cree model? 

Seems I have a few of the same MTE bodies with SCC somethings in them around here I need to find new homes for. This light even if not at full output still beats the other stuff I have.

Edit: this being the 5 mode, it cant be direct its is a driver and it draws 2.20 amps on my dmm


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## GilmoreD (May 9, 2008)

CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME????
I don't have the tools or the time to perform the mods listed in this thread. As a Deputy, I love having a kicka$$ light in a small package. 
If someone would be willing to mod my light for me, I'd gladly pay (within reason) and provide shipping, both ways. Please email me - dave at dave gilmore dot com if you can do this for me.
Thanks in advance,
Dave


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## easilyled (May 10, 2008)

Northern Lights said:


> Edit: this being the 5 mode, it cant be direct its is a driver and it draws 2.20 amps on my dmm



Its direct drive with some resistors to dampen down the current to the 
led a bit.

The modes work by PWM (pulse wave modulation), not by supplying
different current levels.


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## Northern Lights (May 10, 2008)

easilyled said:


> Its direct drive with some resistors to dampen down the current to the
> led a bit.
> 
> The modes work by PWM (pulse wave modulation), not by supplying
> different current levels.


Thanks, then I just need to crack it open and jumper it some.


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## freedom2000 (May 10, 2008)

GilmoreD said:


> CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME????
> ,
> Dave



Hi Dave,

I could do it for free !
I have posted a PM to you

JP


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## LEDninja (May 10, 2008)

I did some VERY ROUGH calculations. (did not take the variations of resistance of the LED to different Vin into account. Just used 3.6V/2.8A = 1.2857 ohms).
With a freshly charged battery 4.2A:
0.5 ohms > 2.35A
8.6 ohms > 0.42A
-
0 ohms > 3.26A (over the P7 spec of 2.8A)
0.25 ohms > 2.73A (just under the P7 spec of 2.8A)
Maybe replace that 0.5 ohm resistor with a 0.25 ohm 1 watt or higher and you should still stay within the 2.8A rating of the P7 LED


Dodge said:


> Got my two-mode version today. As far as I can see, there's just a simple resistor in the switch, and otherwise it's direct drive. So the tail switch alternates between bright (0.5 ohms) and dim (8.6 ohms). If I connect my multimeter in place of the switch, it draws 2.4 amps (Trustfire protected cell, 3.86v, so not fully charged).
> Not sure if that 0.5 ohm resistance would make any difference to the current (though I guess I should be able to work it out).



Resistors in
Low .22A/2.2A = 0.1 (10%)
Medium 1.12A/2.2A = 0.5 (50%)
Resistors out
Low 3.26A*0.1 = 0.326A
Medium 3.26*0.5 = 1.63A


TomBrown said:


> Does anyone know the drive current on low and medium with the resistors bridged?
> I'd love to have 90 minutes of run time on medium with a 45 minute turbo mode available, if I need it.



Ouch!
An overdriven LED can also flicker. You must have gotten a really low Vf LED. (All the L0D CE/10440 that died flickered before they go ). I suggest putting the circuit board back in and maybe replace the resistors with ones of 1/2 the ohms. (Total resistance should be 0.25 ohm or more, _total wattage should be 1 watt or more_)
*EDIT
OOPS!
Forgot the circuit board is in the hot end of the light. Have to derate the watt rating of the resistors. I think each of the 3 resistors have to be rated at least 1 watt each.*


daich said:


> ok, well, I took out the circuit board and I used much thicker wire too.
> It is noticably brighter.
> Is the circuit board that limiting even with the bridged resistors or was it just the wires? if it's just the wires, I may put the circuit back in with those resistors bridged.





daich said:


> What would cause a direct driven light to flicker?
> my guess is either the switch or battery.
> I'm using DX trustfire 2500's unprotected if that matters.
> it's annoying.


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## Glowjob (May 10, 2008)

Northern Lights: Had these hiding in my computer from a while back. Compares rct4 to p7 (both from dx). From 10-20 meter range p7 owns the t4. Anything further than that and the p7 can't compete with the t4 throw. hope this helps

control shot






rct-4





p7







Control






rct4






p7


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## Northern Lights (May 10, 2008)

Glowjob said:


> Northern Lights: Had these hiding in my computer from a while back. Compares rct4 to p7 (both from dx). From 10-20 meter range p7 owns the t4. Anything further than that and the p7 can't compete with the t4 throw. hope this helps


 
It helps a lot, thank you, I can see it is a case if flood v. throw. It is going to depend on my use which is best suited. I did notice that last night while comparing other lights in the arsenal that the MTE P7 definatelly was a close range flood light, a very good one. For me it may be seen as the "household" light, various brightness for indoor/outdoor but not more than 15 meters.
I am very interested how this will compare with the DIY P7s as folks are using LOP and SMO reflectors of various designs. Well, I will be going to see what I can do with the resistors, 
Good thread, thanks to all.


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## Northern Lights (May 10, 2008)

What is in this thread that helps me.

It is hard to find things without search on CPF. I found in this thread my answers.


1 A p7 from an mte light was put in a Mag and it was brighter, the DIY mag holds a better potential #61
2 The slow sos fixed itself after running the battery down some, my discovery. The UI needs 1-2 seconds to retain memory. #92
3 Using large wires helped some. there is a variation of power consumption, highest I see so far was 2.4 A on stock setting, but I think one poster suggested he got 2.8 on new wires. #72
4 Direct drive, jumpered resistors got 2.8 A. #76 #87

I am going to build a P7 mag then. Probably C size. I will wait and see what jumpering does to these lights, Since P7 have variations in the bin the resistors may be for the lowest common denominator.


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## Polar Light (May 10, 2008)

These are my observations about the light with Trustfire batteries

Gray 2.25A 4800 Lux (in my lightbox)
Blue 2.30A 4800 Lux

After I replased the wires:

Gray 2.42A 5600 Lux
Blue 2.55A 6000 Lux

Some other lights to compare my lightbox
Fenix T1 2600 Lux
Surefire E1B 1000 Lux
NovaTac 120T 1400 Lux


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## David Gretzmier (May 10, 2008)

polar- are you going to jumper the resistors as well? If so can you do photo's, as I think that just means take solder and blob it across all contacts. also, a lux test after jumpering would be cool. It seems that the wires and jumpering help the light do all it can.


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## Polar Light (May 10, 2008)

David Gretzmier said:


> polar- are you going to jumper the resistors as well? If so can you do photo's, as I think that just means take solder and blob it across all contacts. also, a lux test after jumpering would be cool. It seems that the wires and jumpering help the light do all it can.



I might do that. Taking the photos is bit difficult right now. I don't have any room in my flat that I can darken enough. The midnight sun is almost here. :shrug:

I suppose the lightbox test gives an indication whitch way I am going with the adjustments.


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## Northern Lights (May 10, 2008)

double


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## Northern Lights (May 10, 2008)

David Gretzmier said:


> polar- are you going to jumper the resistors as well? If so can you do photo's, as I think that just means take solder and blob it across all contacts. also, a lux test after jumpering would be cool. It seems that the wires and jumpering help the light do all it can.


No, if you look at the picture you see three resistors in a row, each side already is "blobbed" they are in parallel and the resistance is less than all three added, ohms law. What jumper means is solder a wire from one side to the other so the circuit goes "around" them in lay terms. Electricity takes the least resistant path, the copper wire will take the current around the resistors.

Here it is... but go on and read about the problem.






Half way done, one side soldered so you can see how to do it.






On a partially used battery, I read 2.20 Amps. After changing the wires and jumpering the resistors I put in a battery that was fully charged several days ago, rested now, not as big a problem as with NiMh but nevertheless rested. Hooked the DMM to it and snapped through the modes. High read 3.5 Amps and drops to 3.48.
SEE! SEE! There is a reason for the resistors! Fresh charge is really pushing it. I will run it a bit on low and medium and then see whether it drops enough, I maybe buying a couple of P7 LEDs if this blows, start over. Oh, well, said it before, Its a hobby!


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## Mike Painter (May 11, 2008)

3 Resistors = 66 Ohms.
2 = 100 ohms
(and you can guess at one 
It would seem that a pot could be put across them and get what you wanted.


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## lctorana (May 11, 2008)

Mike Painter said:


> 3 Resistors = 66 Ohms.
> 2 = 100 ohms


 
No!

That's "R200", not "200R". Each resistor is R200, or 0.2 ohms. Three in parallel would be 0.067 ohms.


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## Mike Painter (May 11, 2008)

lctorana said:


> No!
> 
> That's "R200", not "200R". Each resistor is R200, or 0.2 ohms. Three in parallel would be 0.067 ohms.



Oops, thanks.


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## Northern Lights (May 11, 2008)

3.5 Amp direct drive on an 18650 is OK according to some DD Aficionados I PM'd. Besides the Vbt drops quickly but man is this a lot of light in a small pocket package. well worth it and I would never want a product that I could not tinker right out of the box!


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## David Gretzmier (May 11, 2008)

WHAT NOT TO DO- No rcr 123's ! although this ran for a few days easily on primaries, I decided top try fresh rcr's after they rested overnight. worked for a few seconds, then started cycling though the modes like I was clicking the tailcap. then off. now the tail cap won't click. the led looks fine, and no bun marks on the board. Anybody know where I can get a new tailcap for this light?


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## kwarwick (May 11, 2008)

David Gretzmier said:


> WHAT NOT TO DO- No rcr 123's ! although this ran for a few days easily on primaries, I decided top try fresh rcr's after they rested overnight. worked for a few seconds, then started cycling though the modes like I was clicking the tailcap. then off. now the tail cap won't click. the led looks fine, and no bun marks on the board. Anybody know where I can get a new tailcap for this light?



From your description, it doesn't sound like the tailcap that's gone bad. Easy way to check is to remove the tailcap and jumper from the back of battery to the unpainted aluminum of the body threads and see if the light operates.


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## Northern Lights (May 11, 2008)

David Gretzmier said:


> WHAT NOT TO DO- No rcr 123's ! although this ran for a few days easily on primaries, I decided top try fresh rcr's after they rested overnight. worked for a few seconds, then started cycling though the modes like I was clicking the tailcap. then off. now the tail cap won't click. the led looks fine, and no bun marks on the board. Anybody know where I can get a new tailcap for this light?


The light is direct drive, the Vf for the LED is typically 3.5-3.6 Volts.

You put in 7.2 Volts Battery and got 5.32 Volts Forward to the LED, It can only take 3.6 v.

I supect that may have fried the LED.


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## David Gretzmier (May 11, 2008)

just tried a jumper, it works. I can go through the modes, so, again, is there a tailcap or cheap light that DX sells that the tailcap/switch will work or a replacement button?


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## Dodge (May 11, 2008)

LEDninja said:


> I did some VERY ROUGH calculations. (did not take the variations of resistance of the LED to different Vin into account. Just used 3.6V/2.8A = 1.2857 ohms).
> With a freshly charged battery 4.2A:
> 0.5 ohms > 2.35A
> 8.6 ohms > 0.42A
> ...




I checked it again today, and I think that 0.5 ohm was just an artifact of my cheapo multimeter. The high mode is direct - at least through the switch - I haven't removed the emitter board. I took the switch apart, and there appears to be a fairly complicated clickie switch and a 12 ohm resistor (if I'm reading it right!).


----------



## ledaholic (May 11, 2008)

David Gretzmier said:


> just tried a jumper, it works. I can go through the modes, so, again, is there a tailcap or cheap light that DX sells that the tailcap/switch will work or a replacement button?




The switch is a common type used in many of the Chinese lights. There have been many board members selling the switches, I believe it is the same one people were using in their Q3's for a 2 stage switch.


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## LEDninja (May 12, 2008)

Dodge said:


> I checked it again today, and I think that 0.5 ohm was just an artifact of my cheapo multimeter. The high mode is direct - at least through the switch - I haven't removed the emitter board. I took the switch apart, and there appears to be a fairly complicated clickie switch and a 12 ohm resistor (if I'm reading it right!).


Maybe just a high resistance switch.
Do the switch go off>high>low>off or off>high>off>low>off?


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## Dodge (May 12, 2008)

LEDninja said:


> Maybe just a high resistance switch



I think it's just my multimeter. It reads a minimum of 0.3 ohms, and if you don't get a perfect contact with the leads that adds another 0.1 or 0.2 ohms.



> Do the switch go off>high>low>off or off>high>off>low>off?



The second: off>high>off>low>off

I took the pill apart and it's definetly direct. While I was there I soldered some thicker wires in. Now I'm slightly concerned that I may be direct-driving a P7 from 4.2V. Still, it seems to work and doesn't seem to get too hot (I replaced the heatsink gloop with Arctic Silver) so I guess I needn't worry. If and when it dies there'll probably be something better along anyway.


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## Northern Lights (May 17, 2008)

I found *the Ground* connection in my MTE P7 *to be a problem*, not the size, guage of the wires. Replacing the wires will automatically repair this problem and probably masks and hides the original condition, the ground not wire size. To make the ground the ground wire was left with a little bit of a pig tail and was folded over the edge of the board and the connection was the pressure between the board and casing when the top battery connection board was put into the casing.
To fix it I did this. Put the light in the freezer for several hours to gain an advantage over the thread lock. I used two rubber strap wrenches and a protected vice. The head came off very easy. Now unscrew the center works from the battery tube. Two screws on the LED board will release it, you can leave it flop there but protect it against damage. You will see the heat sinking grease is very poor grade, clean it off and you must use some new sink paste on it. You can get that at any electronic or computer repair store or from the folks that sell these MTE lights. Through the center hole in the sink you can with a soft stick, (q-tip?), probe and push out the inner board and bottom terminal, CAREFULLY DO THIS. The inside board is round with a flat side on the perimeter because it is put inside the sink at an angle and does not ride square to the sink. Once you nursed the bottom board out you can see how the ground is very poor. *Naturally if you replace the wires you replace the ground (I did replace the wires but do not think it was necessary).* But here is where I think my opinion differs. I think the wires are adequate. Reading the thread I see where changing the wires gave mixed results, that points to the ground problem. Without even soldering; by folding a piece of braid or wire strands back over the ground connections you can improve the MTE P7 output if you suffer from a poor ground. Push it back together and paste up the star and the threads. I found the head to focus at about 1 turn up from dead down. I added thread lock and am back in business as I previously wrote.
Several people are building mods and are direct driving the P7 on lithium, even strong lithium D batteries and there is no problems with the initial higher amps high of the charger voltage according to those I PM'd.

*Several people have asked through PMs if I could rewire their MTE P7s. I wish I could but some personal issues are preventing me and are getting in the way of my life. I cannot, for free or fee. Sorry.*


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## Scourie (May 17, 2008)

The current on my 5 mode went from 1.9 to 2.7A when I upgraded the wires, improved the -'ve connection and bypassed the 3 resistors. Having just acquired a 1D mag though, I made the MTE direct drive and fitted the driver and a P7 into the Mag. Now I'm happy (for the moment).

Rob


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## WadeF (May 17, 2008)

After re-wiring my MTE P7 it draws around 2.4A according to my meter. In a bounce box I got these results:

Fenix TK10 turbo: 230 lux
MTE P7: 460lux
Ultrafire WF500 w/ Lumens factor 630 lumen bulb: 640 lux

Not sure if one could arrive at a rough lumen value? The UF WF500 with 630 bulb lumens should be getting around 500 out the front? I'm thinking my MTE P7 is somewhere around 400 lumens.


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## jake25 (May 17, 2008)

Wade check your pms/ empty your box!

or post beamshots


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## pbs357 (May 18, 2008)

***EDIT*** cancelled my order. 6 weeks and still "pending." Even if it shipped today, it would be 2-? weeks until it arrived. Maybe I'll catch one in B/S/T...:shakehead


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## X-or (May 18, 2008)

pbs357 said:


> ***EDIT*** cancelled my order. 6 weeks and still "pending." Even if it shipped today, it would be 2-? weeks until it arrived. Maybe I'll catch one in B/S/T...:shakehead



My 2pcs (two mode) was shipped yesterday after ruffly 1 month waiting. :shrug:


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## pbs357 (May 18, 2008)

Well I saw a good vid/review of the Aurora 2 mode and decided to buy that one. It has a bigger reflector, made of metal, and seemed to have some nice output. I'll fire up a review thread when(/if) I get it if someone doesn't beat me to it.


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## Photon_Whisperer (May 19, 2008)

Dodge said:


> I checked it again today, and I think that 0.5 ohm was just an artifact of my cheapo multimeter. The high mode is direct - at least through the switch - I haven't removed the emitter board. I took the switch apart, and there appears to be a fairly complicated clickie switch and a 12 ohm resistor (if I'm reading it right!).




:thinking: What is that resistor for? I get all the modes bypassing the tailcap.


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## LEDninja (May 19, 2008)

Photon_Whisperer said:


> :thinking: What is that resistor for? I get all the modes bypassing the tailcap.


I think we are talking different lights here.
In the 5 mode the modes are controlled by a circuit board with a PWM chip in the head.
In the 2 mode the switch goes off - no resistor (high) - off - resistor (low) - off. The circuit board in the head is left blank.


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## skan (May 19, 2008)

Hi
Could you post a picture of the wire replacement? 

I think I'm not going to solder the resistors, I'm afraid of driving the led too much current and burn it.

Thanks


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## Mungon (May 27, 2008)

I got my light today and opend it up to fix the resistor hmm thing but as far as I can see its not in there ? haha is there different lights ? or a new board ? I have a second ground vire in one of the skrews holding the " star " anybody recognise this ? IM QLULES haha


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## DocD (May 31, 2008)

sorry to bring up this old thread but i'm :candle: just taken my mte P7 apart and it looks nothing like any of the pictures about link out the resistor's ? i only got mine last week and maybe the makers have change the driver board? mines sounds the same as Mungon
has any one, got pics of all the parts form the early ones? many thanks DocD


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## martonic (May 31, 2008)

I just got the DX 2-level version and although I can't open up the head, I don't need to. The light is simply terrific. Two widely spaced levels, great beam and huge output. Knocked my socks off, and the same for anyone else who's seen it.


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## Northern Lights (May 31, 2008)

DocD said:


> sorry to bring up this old thread but i'm :candle: just taken my mte P7 apart and it looks nothing like any of the pictures about link out the resistor's ? i only got mine last week and maybe the makers have change the driver board? mines sounds the same as Mungon
> has any one, got pics of all the parts form the early ones? many thanks DocD





Mungon said:


> I got my light today and opend it up to fix the resistor hmm thing but as far as I can see its not in there ? haha is there different lights ? or a new board ? I have a second ground vire in one of the skrews holding the " star " anybody recognise this ? IM QLULES haha


Please, some pictures of the end of the light, the star and the board that is inside the module. Maybe then we can come up with a reasonable answer or a good lie.


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## Mungon (May 31, 2008)

Dont think pics will help the board is full of some covering goo to ??? maby hide things or lead heat away but it bright and a lot of flood so it seems to work like it should


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## gsnorm (May 31, 2008)

martonic said:


> I just got the DX 2-level version and although I can't open up the head, I don't need to. The light is simply terrific. Two widely spaced levels, great beam and huge output. Knocked my socks off, and the same for anyone else who's seen it.


 

+1
Heats up pretty fast and with around a 2.7 amp draw it drags a single 18650 down fairly quick. But for short bursts its great.


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## Northern Lights (May 31, 2008)

Mungon said:


> Dont think pics will help the board is full of some covering goo to ??? maby hide things or lead heat away but it bright and a lot of flood so it seems to work like it should


 
Heat sink grease inside the module? Mine was all over the star on the top of the module. The board I have also is too large to go into the module except at a 45 degree angel and one side of the circle has been flattened so it will go in and stay ****-eyed.


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## Northern Lights (May 31, 2008)

martonic said:


> I just got the DX 2-level version and although I can't open up the head, I don't need to. The light is simply terrific. Two widely spaced levels, great beam and huge output. Knocked my socks off, and the same for anyone else who's seen it.


I agee my 5 mode was great out of the box. By reseating the ground I did get a little better performance then I went from 2.7 to 3.5 amps by shorting out the resistors. Out of the box it was brighter than anything I have seen up to that point.

I think in many cases tweaking the ground as it is a crimped copper wire between the board and rim of the aluminum module, will improve many of these that do not seem up to par. Common sense says that is no way to make a connection to aluminum.


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## Mike Painter (May 31, 2008)

Northern Lights said:


> Common sense says that is no way to make a connection to aluminum.




I just updated a Nuwai. There was a flat copper lead soldered on the negative side.
It turns out that it uses a circular piece of copper with a flat copper "wire" as the ground.
The copper is the same size as and is held in place by the star that it grounds. The star is held in place by two screws.


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## Northern Lights (May 31, 2008)

Mike Painter said:


> I just updated a Nuwai. The3re was a flat copper lead soldered on the negative side.
> It turns out that it uses a circular piece of copper with a flat copper "wire" as the ground.
> The copper is the same size as and is held in place by the star that it grounds. The star is held in place by two screws.


Using that same princeple the ground wire in the MTE could be routed back up to the star and held in place that way.
Mungon reports above a third ground wire and maybe they have started to do this. 
The one I had to explain better has the exposed end of a multistrand wire wedged between the bottom battery contact board and the wall of the module that holds everything. Only friction holds the board in place and the amount of contact and pressure is unpredictable and variable on that wire. 
When I put mine back together, I wish I had routed the ground under the screw. I took a piece of de-solder wick and soldred to it and had several loops of it pressed between the board and module wall. 
I just may chanage that in the next few minutes.


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## skan (Jun 11, 2008)

Hi
Finally I've dared to take my flashlight's pieces apart.
I've removed the glass and the reflector.
I've verified that the cables welded to the led are really thin.
Next step would be to unscrew the inner part but I'm afraid I might break the led.
Does it really make a big difference to replace that cables with thicker ones?


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## underconstruction (Jun 17, 2008)

Does this light use the same body as the 10W K2 light / GLIMT from DX?

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.852


If it does, I have an old GLIMT body lying around and I might just do the mod. I wonder if they even bothered to change the reflector.


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## roopeseta (Jul 14, 2008)

I ordered one and it says back ordered with no date. Does someone have a guess when they might get these?


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## julesb (Aug 20, 2008)

underconstruction said:


> Does this light use the same body as the 10W K2 light / GLIMT from DX?
> 
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.852
> 
> ...


 

It looks exactly the same, but for the reflector. The new one has an orange peel reflector. It is advertised as aluminium on the website, but is in fact a metal coated plastic reflector.


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## underconstruction (Aug 21, 2008)

Yah I did notice that they looked alike, but the GLIMT tube is a little too narrow for a 18650. I might have to try my luck boring the tube with some sandpaper and elbow grease. I wonder how the beam will be with a smooth reflector.


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## Albinoni (Aug 21, 2008)

This is something that I really scratch my head on, if LEDs and what they are, are suppose to be cool lights i.e they dont if not hardly give out any heat, than why the hell do some of these torches heat up.


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## LEDninja (Aug 21, 2008)

Albinoni said:


> This is something that I really scratch my head on, if LEDs and what they are, are suppose to be cool lights i.e they dont if not hardly give out any heat, than why the hell do some of these torches heat up.


An HID or hotwire are 35+ watts and 3500+ degrees so are very hot. The bulbs like to run hot so the torch is designed to keep the heat in. They are also very big allowing the heat to spread out.

The P7 LED runs at 12 watts which is still a lot of heat. With a LED not able to operate above 120 degrees massive heatsinking is required to get the heat away from the LED to the body of the torch making the torch very hot. In the smaller torches like the MTE the whole torch gets hot. With bigger torches like a 3D/3C [email protected] the head and the front part of the torch gets hot, the tail end is relatively cool.

Most other LEDs max out at 3 or 4 watts so have 1/4 the heat of the P7. In MTE P7 sized lights the heat makes good hand warmers. Some smaller 10440/RCR123A torches also get too hot to hold.


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## NickBose (Aug 21, 2008)

Albinoni said:


> This is something that I really scratch my head on, if LEDs and what they are, are suppose to be cool lights i.e they dont if not hardly give out any heat, than why the hell do some of these torches heat up.



I may be wrong but I think what meant to be cool is the "light": If you put your hands under a 100-watt incan light bulb you'll feel really warm while I suppose if you put your hands under a 100-watt LED (if there's one) then you won't feel much heat at all (no infra-red?).


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## HKJ (Aug 21, 2008)

Albinoni said:


> This is something that I really scratch my head on, if LEDs and what they are, are suppose to be cool lights i.e they dont if not hardly give out any heat, than why the hell do some of these torches heat up.



Led has better efficiency that incan, but they are very far from 100% efficiency.

The heat from incan is mostly IR radiation and goes out the front of the flashlight, but leds do not send out much invisible light, their hear goes into the flashlight body where it must dissipate.

Another reason leds are called cool are due to the color of the light, very white/blue lights are cool, when they are more red in color (like incan) they are warm.


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## ToeMoss (Aug 21, 2008)

Wattnot said:


> It doesn't look like a flood monster either. In fact, I wouldn't use the term "monster" at all. It's more like a "pip." Yes, I shall call it a "flood pip."
> 
> Lets hope for better with established mfg's.


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## freedom2000 (Aug 22, 2008)

ToeMoss said:


>



See here for a real food monster with a P7 led

JP


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## freedom2000 (Aug 22, 2008)

HKJ said:


> Led has better efficiency that incan, but they are very far from 100% efficiency.
> 
> The heat from incan is mostly IR radiation and goes out the front of the flashlight, but leds do not send out much invisible light, their hear goes into the flashlight body where it must dissipate.
> 
> Another reason leds are called cool are due to the color of the light, very white/blue lights are cool, when they are more red in color (like incan) they are warm.



Leds can get very hot... especially the SSC P7 die which is in fact composed of four leds chips.
See here for some temperature measurements that I have done.

JP


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## cgcrute (Aug 29, 2008)

I received mine a couple of days ago, it had something like 10ish modes and no memory. I could eventually get a very bright mode out of it after a fair few clicks. Not happy.:mecry:

I dismantled the head and found that the driver didn't match the images posted (as others have said). It had two chips mounted on it (one larger than the other) the three resistors were missing. It was only after I'd soldered it back in place that I realised I should have photographed it!!

I attempted to directly drive the emitter from the battery but it didn't work. 

Eventually I worked out what was causing the 10ish modes and removed the switch from the tail cap. The switch was the one from the 2 mode version with the resistor and the 2 way switch, hence the 10ish modes! I removed the resistor and bridged the points beneath it. 

The torch now works as advertised, 5 modes and the memory works too! Happy Happy Joy Joy! 

Tests at night on a local unlite country lane are encouraging, it should produce plenty of light for nocturnal mountain bike rides when helmet mounted (may even get a second one to bar mount for extra dazzling)!

On the way back I pointed it on the road as cars passed, the hot spot was clearly visible even when the headlights passed over it... very impressed!!

I am, eventually, very impressed with the torch - although I am less than impressed I had to attack it to such a degree to make it work as advertised.


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## Markcm (Aug 30, 2008)

cgcrute said:


> I am, eventually, very impressed with the torch - although I am less than impressed I had to attack it to such a degree to make it work as advertised.



Funny how this works, I personally expect direct Chinese purchases to be different than advertised, that way I feel special when it shows up as described. 

On the bright side you got it working, Kudos to you for that! Imagine if it were built by a supplier like Surefire, it wouldn't have to be rewired but that wouldn't matter because we couldn't afford it in the first place


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## Alan B (Sep 7, 2008)

Markcm said:


> Funny how this works, I personally expect direct Chinese purchases to be different than advertised, that way I feel special when it shows up as described.


 
I feel about the same. My MTE SSC P7 5-mode arrived thursday, but I didn't get it until saturday and had to stand in line behind 20 people at the post office because they sent it registered mail. It was backordered, though the website said it was in stock when I ordered it, and I had to wait almost a month for it.

The pattern is nice, with a large hotspot that is quite bright and a very bright spill and no dark rings or spots, though the center of the hotspot is slightly less bright than the edges of the spot. On low it has about the same output as my 7 LED Proton, which is a very useable amount of light. On high it is very bright, but not as bright as my 15 watt Ostar [email protected]. For its diminutive size, it is very impressive. It is slightly smaller than my Tiablo A9s. It gets warm quite slowly, so clearly they are not pushing the LEDs hard.

The finish on mine is good, no significant scratches or blems. It is a fairly high gloss. There is a hole for a lanyard but none was included. No instructions were included.

The 5 levels (hi-med-low-strobe-sos) work fine, and mine does have memory, which is an excellent feature and makes the light more useable. (This means if you leave it on a level for a bit, it will come back to that level the next time it is turned on.)

The 18650 can be made to rattle slightly in mine when shaken, but you have to work at it. You can feel it more than hear it. There is a spring at both ends.

The head and reflector on mine unscrews, which is nice in case it quits or needs an LED upgrade.

Considering the size and price, this is a very useful light. A combination of bright spill and moderate throw with a nice gradient beam pattern and the range of output from high to low makes for a multipurpose small light that fits into a pocket. 

Has anyone found a belt holster suitable for this light?

-- Alan


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## LEDninja (Sep 8, 2008)

This flashlight
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12060
fits this holster
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.807

The pad the velcro attaches to frays quite badly so you may want to get the 2-pack.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1374

I think lighthound sells it too in case you do not want to wait another month.
http://www.lighthound.com//Holster--D-Ring_p_9-624.html


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## Alan B (Sep 14, 2008)

LEDninja said:


> This flashlight
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12060
> fits this holster
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.807
> ...


 
Thanks for the links :twothumbs

-- Alan


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## Casebrius (Nov 28, 2008)

Just fried something :mecry: 
Last night I got a decent reading of about 1.8A when reading removing switch assembly. Tonight I tried and at first couldn't get a reading. I may have had a lead wrong on my meter. Well..... all of a sudden I started getting a flaky reading and light was dim and started flickering. Now the light will only turn on in "lowish" mode and in about 3 seconds starts flickering. Any idea what happened? The meter is a good one (Fluke 177 True RMS multi).


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## Markcm (Nov 28, 2008)

Casebrius said:


> Just fried something :mecry:
> Last night I got a decent reading of about 1.8A when reading removing switch assembly. Tonight I tried and at first couldn't get a reading. I may have had a lead wrong on my meter. Well..... all of a sudden I started getting a flaky reading and light was dim and started flickering. Now the light will only turn on in "lowish" mode and in about 3 seconds starts flickering. Any idea what happened? The meter is a good one (Fluke 177 True RMS multi).



Is it possible your meter was configured for current measurement and you were measuring across the + and - of the emitter? Current measurements must be performed in series with the circuit, not parallel.


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## Casebrius (Nov 30, 2008)

As I said, I measure across the back of flashlight w/o the switch/endcap. I somehow think I fired the board. IF DX will not replace it, what board would be best to put in this light?


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## Markcm (Nov 30, 2008)

Casebrius said:


> As I said, I measure across the back of flashlight w/o the switch/endcap. I somehow think I fired the board. IF DX will not replace it, what board would be best to put in this light?



You should first determine if it is the board or the emitter; my first guess would be the emitter.

Power it up and check if there is voltage to the emitter. If you have a power supply you can also apply ~3.5v to the emitter to see if it fires up.


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## Lightguy27 (Nov 30, 2008)

Has anyone tried one of these yet? http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.16842


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## Casebrius (Nov 30, 2008)

Markcm said:


> You should first determine if it is the board or the emitter; my first guess would be the emitter.
> 
> Power it up and check if there is voltage to the emitter. If you have a power supply you can also apply ~3.5v to the emitter to see if it fires up.


 emitter works fine with direct voltage applied


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## Markcm (Nov 30, 2008)

Casebrius said:


> emitter works fine with direct voltage applied



Sorry, I don't know of a good replacement driver. I was just looking recently myself and noticed most of them are for 5v and up.

As a last ditch resort, maybe there is there is a bad solder connection on the driver board that you could repair?


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## Casebrius (Dec 12, 2008)

Anybody? What DX board would drive this light sufficiently?


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## thevainone (Dec 12, 2008)

Wattnot said:


> It doesn't look like a flood monster either. In fact, I wouldn't use the term "monster" at all. It's more like a "pip." Yes, I shall call it a "flood pip."


 

i just spit up my coffee from laughter. :thumbsup:


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## Northern Lights (Dec 12, 2008)

Casebrius said:


> Anybody? What DX board would drive this light sufficiently?


 In the beginning of the thread no one was talking about drivers but were by passing the resistors and direct driving to get it to get up and go with some worth while out put.
Maybe I got lucky, I did by pass the resistors and have a great working light. Mostly now having 4 other P7s this one is used daily in a head band as a head light. It compares well to C bin and D bin lights running at max outputs, it is the dimmest of the lot but still a very good light in output and the modes work for my applications.
As an alternative to replacing the dirver you may consider a direct drive. I guess I posted a lot in the beginning of this thread and covered my experience with this little light. Friends of mine liked it so well they purchased theirs and use them stock with no problems, but mine is brighter. Here are my posts in this thread. I hope it helps someone with ideas.

post 100
post 107
post 108
post 113
post 117 the by pass thread
post 120
post 126
post 139
post 142
post 143
post 145


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## LEDninja (Dec 12, 2008)

Elektrolumens EDC P7 (direct drive) left, MTE 5 mode P7 right:





With the EDC-P7 I got 2.8A at 4.16V dropping to 2.5A at 4.08V fairly quickly.
With the MTE I got 2.1A at 4.16V.


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## Casebrius (Dec 19, 2008)

Northern Lights said:


> As an alternative to replacing the dirver you may consider a direct drive.


 My board is fried, I'd like to make it a 3-5 mode light again. Where can I purchase a driver to drive it at max suggested on high?


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## Northern Lights (Dec 19, 2008)

Casebrius said:


> My board is fried, I'd like to make it a 3-5 mode light again. Where can I purchase a driver to drive it at max suggested on high?


That is a problem, that is the reason I went to direct drive with a taskled.com, D2flex, which recently replaced the D2dim. 

If you look at the P7 drivers, offered by DX and KD, KD is kind enough to list the Amperage from the various stages of output on C bin (which are I bin Vf, Vf=3.5) LEDs and their drivers; it should be the same for a D bin on their driver as it is a constant current driver. Although they state the drivers are 2.8A or 3A drivers the data they lists often disagrees! http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=6386
has a driver that is a 2.8 Amp output on high, that is factory spec.
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1845
you see you must have over 3.9 volts input to get 2.9A or above out of the light.

If you look at P7 spec sheets you can see the max lumens output is based on the maximum amps, the factory spec is 2.8A, and there is a relationship between Vf and those amps. The P7 can take a little higher current input and be a little brighter. That depends on heat sinks too. Even the 52mm head lights sold on the 18650 batteries have heatsinks that cannot handle high for very long. The mods made by members use more generous heat sinks. Heat means less output.

Others have recognized the problem I will write about and have offered DIY and other member made drivers in threads in CPF, you need to search those out because there are some very good ones.

I found one big problem was that the brighest P7 was the D bin but the Vf had to be 3.75 Volts, so you either use a driver to get the necessary amps or direct drive and use a 3.7 volt battery, not a 3.6 lithium. C bin which is the common bin used in production lights at the momment is a 700-800 lumen LED, D bin is 800-900.

In any case you get your specified Vf if you use the 2.8 amps input. The P7 can take a little higer amps and give a little more lumens. So I chose to use D bins at I bin Vf, 3.75V, and use an Emoli 3.7V battery, I found the true nominal voltage to be up around 3.85 on full charge and the amps to be 3.x. I know that LED was giving up its max lumens therefore.

Now to mode it. To get a strobe you need to use the UIB interface. The Task.LED pwm products have a delay turn off if you use the User Interface for Bicycle. Otherwise those can be programed to operate at various levels, turn on at a force level etc. My light with the D2FLEX are set to turn on with a short press to high. If you press and hold a moment it will turn on to low, then if you release then press again it climbs 7 steps to high, or I can jump it from any setting to hight... all programable.

I would build a P7 one of two ways. I would direct drive a D or C bin with the correct battery to get the Vf correct for the maximum output. Lithium 3.6 for I bin 3.5Vf or Emoli 3.7 for J bin 3.75 Vf, as one method and obtain various modes by using the D2FLEX. The second I would use a constant current driver that honestly puts out 3.0+ amps. I think the member made ones are probably superior by the comments, more so than rigging DIY versions that are combining several smaller boards. Recently the SandwhichShoppe is coming out or did come out with a new Shark driver, several together can be used to drive P7s, that too is a possibility.


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## Casebrius (Jan 4, 2009)

I switched the Driver of mine to this (Since driver died) one noted in post above. 
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1845

I'm not real happy with it. While the light does work again, the board is lacking. First off, it has no memory. It comes on in next mode from where it was turned off regardless of how long it was left on. I measured 3.2 volts at the LED with a current draw of 1.8A from end of battery. Should I be disappointed in these numbers? Does anyone have a suggestion for a better board? At this point, I don't care what it costs as long as it makes this light roar.


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## chewy78 (Jan 4, 2009)

Jay T said:


> Mine has shipped, once it gets here it's going to a party in the bathroom with a 1,000 Lumen Ostar Mag, some multi emitter lights and a light meter.


LOL WOO HOO:nana:


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## Olli (Jan 4, 2009)

I got two 2-mode MTE SSC P7 (DX SKU 12325) lights just before christmas. I was planning on using this on my bike (I've later learned that I should just bite the bullet and build 3 x P7 light fixture for my MTB) While other one of them kicks *** and I'm happy with it, the other one isn't working properly. The faulty one only works in high mode and the high mode turns on after the second click. I contacted DX for RMA number and warranty, but it seems that they don't want to cover that with warranty.

I should get the working one from my father in law, who i gave it to for Christmas, and test different tailcaps and try to spot the source of the problem.


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## Markcm (Jan 4, 2009)

Olli said:


> I got two 2-mode MTE SSC P7 (DX SKU 12325) lights just before christmas. I was planning on using this on my bike (I've later learned that I should just bite the bullet and build 3 x P7 light fixture for my MTB) While other one of them kicks *** and I'm happy with it, the other one isn't working properly. The faulty one only works in high mode and the high mode turns on after the second click. I contacted DX for RMA number and warranty, but it seems that they don't want to cover that with warranty.
> 
> I should get the working one from my father in law, who i gave it to for Christmas, and test different tailcaps and try to spot the source of the problem.



This sounds like a pretty easy fix if you're mechanically inclined.

You should be able to remove the switch assembly by using a pair of pointed tweezers (or similar device) as a spanner wrench, inserting the tips in to the two holes that you see in the retaining ring when you look in the tail cap on the inside/ spring side. Next you can push the complete switch out of the tail cap through the spring side. The switch is a 3 position switch, 1-open contacts, position2- pin one closed, no resistance, position3-Pin3 closed and routed through a resistor.

The resistor is very obvious, it sounds like the resistor may not be connected or possibly even missing.

With a soldering iron this is a 5 minute fix.

You can also replace the switch with a 2 position switch for (on/off) operation with out the two off positions you have now.

PM me if you need additional info or assitance.

-Markcm


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