# ThruNite TN30 Review (3 x XM-L U2 | 3 x 18650)



## turboBB (May 2, 2012)

*W*ith the TN30, ThruNite has thrown down the guantlet and self-proclaimed it to be the "King of flood light" with a max output of 3000 lumens. We shall see if it lives up to that billing.


 
NOTE: This is the finalized production version that I will be reviewing (HKJ had previously reviewed a pre-prod one)


*MFG SPECS
* MSRP: $240 USD
- LED: Three Cree XM-L U2 LEDs with a lifespan of 20+years of run time
- Max 3000 lumen output using 3 * 18650 batteries
- Level 1: 1 lm. 1200 hours; Level 2: 38 lm. 75 hours; Level 3: 352 lm. 10 hours; Level 4: 932 lm. 3.5 hours; 
Level 5: 1580 lm. 2.5 hours; Level 6: 2780 lm. 1.2 hours; Standby: 67 uA; Strobe: 2780 lm. 2hours
- Working voltage: 8V to 13V
- Max runtime: 1200 hours
- Max beam distance: 370 meters
- Peak beam intensity: 35000cd
- Impact resistant: 1.2 meters
- Waterproof to IPX-8 standard, 2M
- 178.00mm length, 64.50mm bezel diameter
- Weight: 559.80g without battery
- Aircraft grade aluminum body structure
- Premium type III hard anodized anti-abrasive finish
- Ultra-clear tempered glass lens with anti-reflective coating
- Momentary forward click tactical switch
- Strobe mode for tactical and emergency use
- Smooth reflector for max light output
- Highly focused beam for maximum distance
- Tactical knurling for firm grip
- Streamlined body design
- Mechanical reversed polarity protection design for battery carrier
- Intelligent highly efficient circuit board design for max performance and long run time
- Specially designed for Military, Law Enforcement, Self-defense, Hunting, Search & Rescue and Outdoor activities
- Intelligent temperature controlled light output for user safety


*PACKAGING / CONTENTS
*The TN30 comes packed within a nifty metal box: 




Additional accessories included were:
1 x holster
2 x o-ring
1 x lanyard
1 x spare tailcap cover
1 x user manual
1 x warranty card





*CONDENSED VIDEO SUMMARY
*In order to provide you with timely info, I've created this quick high-level review of the light and will be fleshing out the rest of the review in the coming days:

(again, still a relative novice at making videos so apologies if they aren't good)


*DESIGN / FEATURES*
*[NEW 6/11:* The TN30 bears a passing resemblance to the TN31:






However, it features a smaller head overall without a SS bezel that is crenellated to allow one to easily see if the TN30 is on when stood on its head:


 

 

 

There is a double-sided coated AR lens:




The reflector while relatively shallow is still deep enough to provided pretty decent throw for the tri-XM-L's: 








Just aft of the head are four circular cooling fins followed by three trapezoidal-shaped ones that alternate in pattern:


 






These are definitely needed considering the temps this light can achieve (please see runtime section below for futher details).

The body itself features three "flat" sides of which one is unamrked, the other features the company name and slogan and the final bears the model and serial number:


 

 

*]*

There are two machined grooves that run parallel between each of these flat sides and the body features texturing that provides decent grip:


 



*[NEW 5/23:* The tail cap features two attachment points for the lanyard and has flat surfaces allowing the TN31 to tailstand:


 



 
There is a forward clicky switch that acts as the master on/off for the light (more details in UI section).

Save for the model/searial no. etched on them, the battery tube and its components is identical between the TN31 and TN30 and thus interchangeable:


 




 



Digging into the "innards" of the light, there is a spring tip for the positive battery path while the metal plate surrounding it mates with the corresponding surface of the battery carrier for the negative path:


 

 
The battery carrier aligns the cells in series and is wired in such a way that the postive/negative paths are redundant on either end thus allowing it to be inserted into the tube either way, care however still needs to be taken to ensure the batteries are inserted with the correct polarity into the carrier.

There are raised tips allowing the use of flat top cells, however the heatshrink can catch on the edges during removal:




Both my shortest cells (AW IMR 1600 @ 65.2mm) and longest (XTAR 18700 @ 69.2mm) had no problems fitting in the carrier length-wise, however as per my video review, cells with wider diameters will have difficulty being inserted/removed from the tube:


 



The "tail cap" can be removed allowing access to the switch. The aluminum retaining ring helps ensure water resistance for the rubber tailcap and there is an o-ring around it that serves the same purpose:


 

 



Anodizing has been removed on the edge that the switch PCB sits on. The threads aren't square-cut on either end but I had no difficulties during threading:


 

 


They are however anodized thus allowing lock-out at the head (the tailcap wasn't really meant to be removed).

While the switch itself is mechanical, there are additional chips and resistors integrated into the PCB it's soldered to:


 



I measured full voltage @ 12.55v with the battery carrier isolated, but it dropped to 10.34v with the switch inline and turned on and nothing when off:










The switch itself draws 9.56μA when turned on (again isolated w/just the battery carrier) and measured either through the negative spring or the ground/negative path on the PCB. I however wasn't able to measure any draw when it was off:










With the switch wired inline w/the head, I measured the current draw of Stand by mode to be 8.55μA when on (this jumps to 91μA without the switch) and nothing when off:


 

*]*



*SIZE / HANDLING
*




L to R: NITECORE TM11 (v1.12) | Niteye EYE30 | Elektro Lumens Big Bruiser | ThruNite TN30 | ThruNite TN31 | XTAR S1 (Production)

I elected to show how the TN30 compares to other 3 x XM-L with stout tubes but big bro TN31 wanted to tag along so in he went into the group pic. 

There wasn't enough room on my desk to squeeze in an 18650 battery for reference but suffice to say these are all chunky lights, and the TN30 is on the larger side of the 3 x XM-L lights.


*MEASURED PERFORMANCE
*Again, in the interests of time, here is a quick vid on what I measured:


*[NEW 5/2:* Taking into consideration there is a factor for deviation with my PVC LMD but given the amount of lights I've measured and the % rate of error, I feel that what ThruNite has quoted which is Max of 3K lms and 2780lms for level 6 is within reason. Just be mindful that the 3K max is not sustained for long but despite the step-down L6 is within the ballpark as can be seen in the runtime chart below.*]*

*BEAMSHOTS
**Indoors (5m)
*L6






 

 



L5




 



L4


 

 



L3


 

 



L2


 

 



L1


 

 


For details of the above indoor shots and comparo vs. many other lights, please check Epic Indoor Shots Trilogy

*Whitewall Hunting
*Exposure settings in sequential reading order from top left: 1/25, 1/100, 1/800, 1/1600 @ f2.8 on AWB (light is ~.4m to wall / camera ~.59m):









 

*[NEW 6/4: 500ft (152.4m) Beach Shot
*



*40ft (12.2m) campsite shot:
*



*100ft (30.5m) tree top shot:
*


For details of these shots as well as comparo vs. 23 other lights, check here.

Also, here is a mini video review I did while camping (best to check thread linked above in beach beamshot before viewing this to get a better understanding of the route taken as well as a layout of the campsite):



*RUNTIME*
The relevant battery stats are provided above each runtime graph along with: 
- Voltage of the battery at the start and end of the test
- Current draw as taken right before the test
- Actual runtime using ANSI FL1 (first in HR and then in M so for the RL3100 read this as 1.5hrs _OR_ 91min)
- Also for High, captured the temperature: ambient, the head at start and the max it reached (fan was used for all bats)

*[UPDATED 5/19:*



As mentioned in my review, there is a soft ramp up as shown at the very beginning of the run. Also, there is a distinct step down of approx. 100 lumens after about 1 minute then it runs in semi-regulated mode for roughly 20mins before starting a gradual drop. There was a flickering at the end of the run to indicate low voltage. At this point, the TN30 was still putting out roughly 180lms.

*[NEW 5/19:*



At L5, while there is no step down, the light does gradually drop in ouput a little at the start and then settles into a pretty well regulated run for the entire duration before output dropped. Using AW2600's I only managed 1.6hrs on this run falling about 1hr short of the claimed 2.5hrs for this level. Will ping ThruNite re: what batteries were used for their runtime testing.




At L4, there is a less of a gradual drop from turn-on and the TN30 runs just about perfectly well regulated for the entire duration. I again wasn't able to match the claims but at least, it wasn't too far off vs. the L5 discrepancy. HOWEVER, unlike the other levels, I didn't get a low voltage warning at the end of this run with the light just cutting out. I checked the cells but none had a tripped PCB. The cells are pretty old now w/many deep discharge cycles so quite possibly not up to snuff but given the relatively mild current draw, not certain what caused the sudden cut-off. Will see if it happens again with different cells w/future testing.

For the other levels, given I can't have my light meter locked up for days on end, I took current draw as follows and yielding the respective calculated runtimes:



*]*



===

Here is a quick preview and a temp check before runtime was completed:





=======
TN30 provided by ThruNite for review


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## kj2 (May 2, 2012)

Thanks


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## Bruno28 (May 2, 2012)

Stop giving me too many options!!!:mecry: I was just about to buy a Xtar S1 pre production, before i saw this!
Now I'm confused on which one to get!!! Whats the price?
And again great review!!!!
can't wait for more pictures and the"more to come"


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## indenial (May 2, 2012)

Excellent video! Three thousand lumens is unbelievable. Eager to see runtime info. Great stuff!


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## fernandoz (May 2, 2012)

great video!


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## turboBB (May 2, 2012)

Thx guys! I'm still getting a hang of making these and will also start learning how to edit them. Conducting a runtime testing right now and thus far have confirmed there is a step down roughly 1-2 minutes after startup then it runs semi-regulated for a while and then starts a more steep drop. This light does get hot! Check vid in OP for quick preview and explanation.

Cheers,
Tim


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## turboBB (May 2, 2012)

Runtime now added, the step-down is subtle (~100 lms).


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## Bruno28 (May 2, 2012)

turboBB said:


> Runtime now added, the step-down is subtle (~100 lms).



Nice, cant wait for the rest!


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## candle lamp (May 10, 2012)

Excellent review. Many thanks for the time & effort. Tim! :thumbsup:
The light is very bright.


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## Bruno28 (May 17, 2012)

Actually ended up getting one, because of this review!
Its a great light! Very bright and the 6 outputs are easy to use.
Thanks Tim


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## turboBB (May 17, 2012)

You're welcome Bruno and congrats, enjoy the light!


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## damanupnorth (May 18, 2012)

wonderful job thank you - I got a ton out of this review 
thank you

D
Damanupnorth


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## Stumpy (May 19, 2012)

Excellent work on the review but it cost me some money, thanks.


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## turboBB (May 19, 2012)

Thx guys!

All,
Runtime on L5 & L4 plus current draw for all levels added. Upon saving, I got an error message that only 1 vid is allowed (must be new due to the server upgrade) so for now, I've offlined two of the vids.

EDIT: Video limitation issue fixed.

Cheers,
Tim


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## KartRacer31 (Jun 3, 2012)

Tim,

Your reviews are top notch man! Really fantastic information provided! Thanks for doing all this work, and providing us with the info. --Tim

PS - I hope to see you at the FCW-9 camping trip


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## turboBB (Jun 3, 2012)

Thx Tim!

Speaking of camping, I just got back from a trip in RI, and got to do long distance beamshots for the TN30 (as well as camping use mini video review). I didn't get a chance to update this thread yet but you can read up about it here.

EDIT: Outdoor beamshots and camping video now posted (search 6/4).

Cheers,
Tim


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## KartRacer31 (Jun 3, 2012)

Holy crap! I can't believe how much effort you put into your reviews! Man that camping trip review was great! --Tim


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## turboBB (Jun 15, 2012)

Thx again Tim!

All, new material (6/11) and ceiling bounce now added.

Cheers,
Tim


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## CYMac (Jun 23, 2012)

That is a super intense review! where can you buy the stuff to check and test the lumen output??? can't find these things..


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## turboBB (Jun 23, 2012)

Thx! Your local hardware store should have most items in stock. You can check this thread re: my PVC LMD setup.

EDIT: I forgot to mention, of course you'll have to source your own light meter (I use an Extech HD450) and preferably a few well known/calibrated lights to test the entire contraption with.

Cheers,
Tim


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## turboBB (Jul 5, 2012)

Whitewall shots posted.


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## HighlanderNorth (Jul 25, 2012)

When the TN30 is running at L2 of 35 lumens, are all 3 LED's on, or is it just one or two at that low level? How about L1? How good(how useful) is the 35 lumen L2 setting? Is it bright enough to see your way around while walking through the back yard for instance? With some lights, especially floody lights that dilute their beam because of their wide spill beam/wide hot spot, the lower settings arent as useful because the beam is so diluted. Whereas lights that have moderate flood/throw do pretty well at 30L for lighting up a pathway while you are walking at night.

Thanks.....


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## turboBB (Jul 25, 2012)

All LED's are always on regardless of the output level selected (to the best of my knowledge, Niteye is the only mfg that selectively lights up and cycles through LED's depending on the output selected). L1 is great for general use around the house at night but might just be a tad little bright for fully dark adjusted eyes.

L2 is perfect for walking outdoors with (if you'll recall from my camping use video). The TN30 has the second best throw of the four tri-flector lights (the other three being XTAR S1, SWM T60C, NC TM11) thus has a great balance between flood and throw. I measured lux @ 1m for L2 to be 570 which calculates to 48m beam distance but regardless of paper calculations, based on real world use, I feel L2 is perfect for general outdoors use at night.

Hope that helps.

Cheers,
Tim


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## sl33pyriceboi (Jul 27, 2012)

TurboBB, first off I would just like to tell you this was a great review.
I do have a question though? Out of the TN 30 and TN31 which one would you choose if you have to have just one??? And why?


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## turboBB (Jul 27, 2012)

Thx! As for your q, those who have been following my posts for a while will know that in general I have a bias for throwers. However, for actual every day use, the floodier profile of the TN30 is much more practical so I'd have to say between the two (and in consideration of my daily uses) it'll be the TN30. I simply don't have a need for 700+ meters of throw on a daily basis. =)


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## sl33pyriceboi (Jul 27, 2012)

Thanks for the fast reply I really appreciate it. 

What if the new scenario was to go camping; then which would you choose.
Would you choose the TN 30 or TN 31?

I am curious if the TN31 has decent spill to aluminate the ground while hiking. My jet beam m1x (mce led) needs to be retired. 

I really appreciate your replies thank you so much in advance.


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## turboBB (Jul 27, 2012)

Still the TN30. The TN31 has AMAZING wow factor at the distance it can cover but during camping, the tight hotspot just isn't very practical for general use. I'd prefer the floodier profile of the TN30 for overall use. The TN31 has OK spill but definitely not as good as TN30.

Speaking of camping, not sure if you saw my camping thread but if not, you can check it out here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Camping-Report-(24-XM-L-lights-beamshots-vids)

Lots of beamshot comparos at the camp ground and at the beach as well as a vid of the TN30 and TN31 being used to hike around the campground.

Cheers,
Tim


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## sl33pyriceboi (Jul 27, 2012)

^WOW that was a fantastic read. Very very informative. 

Last question (I promise): so I've set my eyes on the tn30. I'm about to pull the trigger (and have done the best research I possible can), but I was wondering if you had any other suggestions of lights that would perform better than the tn30 I should consider. 

If not, please give me the ok and blessings and I will order away!

Thank you again mr turbobb! You are one awesome light master. 


james.


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## turboBB (Jul 28, 2012)

Thx James, I'm going again in about a month so be sure to reply to that thread if there are particular shots/vids you'd like to see, etc.

In terms of what is currently available out there, and if by performance you mean raw output (lumens/throw), the TN30 is currently the brightest multi-emitter XM-L light in my arsenal and bests even a 5 x XM-L (APEX 5T6) in sheer output. While it may not be the throwiest (the S1 with its large tri-flector reigns in this regard), it's certainly no slouch. As can be seen in my beach shots, it illuminates a wide swath of the target at that 500ft distance at which point, my (aging) eyes would have a hard time making out the details of anything at that range (without the use of an optical aid).

You could always wait for the next greatest and brightest but then you'll always end up waiting since there will always be something brighter/throwier so at some point, you'd need to decide if the TN30 suits your needs. You certainly don't need my blessings to get any light you feel like but if it helps, I think it's a very solid choice in consideration of all the available options out there currently.

One thing that I've been heartened by is that ThruNite has recently improved their customer service tremendously. One need but look at their mfg subforum on CPFMP for evidence of that. While they may still be going through growing pains, they have been pretty engaged in replying to all the posts be it positive feedback or requests for assistance.

That should be taken into consideration as well in which case, it's another in favor for ThruNite. Hope that helps.

Cheers,
Tim


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## sl33pyriceboi (Jul 28, 2012)

I am sold. Thank you again for all your help Tim. Awesome People like you are what makes this forum so great!

James


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## sl33pyriceboi (Aug 1, 2012)

Hi Tom, i got my TN30 today but was a bit disappointed.

the colors of the LEDs are not the same. i have two that are white and one that is REALLY REALLY yellow.

my question is: is all 3 leds on your TN30 the same color?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/sl33pyriceboi/1c96d0d0.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/sl33pyriceboi/7cb3bb93.jpg

i will be contacting lightjunction for an exchange.


Your images are too large and have been replaced with links Please resize and repost.
See Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. - Thanks Norm


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## turboBB (Aug 1, 2012)

Ouch, sorry to hear about that. I don't have such an issue with my sample:


 

 

While it's a bummer you'll need to ship this back, my experiences with LJ has always been positive and I'm sure they'll make things right. Good luck!

Tim


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## Chowderhead72 (Aug 26, 2012)

Has anyone recieved the new neutral version. Opinions? Thoughts?


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## rjdriver (Aug 26, 2012)

Yes, I would like to know and hear about users experiences I am torn right now between this and a TM11, The thing I like about this light is the switching is simple as with the TM11 you have to press the switch part way, all the way ,stand on your head, jump up and down and you don't know what mode your in .....IMHO way more complicated than it should be.


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## sbbsga (Aug 26, 2012)

rjdriver said:


> Yes, I would like to know and hear about users experiences I am torn right now between this and a TM11, The thing I like about this light is the switching is simple as with the TM11 you have to press the switch part way, all the way ,stand on your head, jump up and down and you don't know what mode your in .....IMHO way more complicated than it should be.



Looks like you have made your decision.


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## Stu_Travelbee (Aug 30, 2012)

Deleted


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## DON KIDIK (Sep 1, 2012)

Great review and information 

Thanks all

DON...


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## Myster (Sep 7, 2012)

Great review and video
My TN 30 doesn't seem to have much of a visual difference between level 5 and level 6 (high)
Doesn't seem right to me. Any ideas
Thanks


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## turboBB (Sep 8, 2012)

Our eyes do not perceive light output in a linear fashion. Thus twice the output in lumens is not percevied to be twice as bright (if I'm not mistaken, it's more on the order of four times the output in order to be perceived as being twice as bright). I measured output of L6 @ 3020 and L5 @ 1830. While on paper this is an increase of 65%, again, our eyes would not perceive it to be so.

Hope that helps.

Cheers,
Tim


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## Myster (Sep 8, 2012)

turboBB said:


> Our eyes do not perceive light output in a linear fashion. Thus twice the output in lumens is not percevied to be twice as bright (if I'm not mistaken, it's more on the order of four times the output in order to be perceived as being twice as bright). I measured output of L6 @ 3020 and L5 @ 1830. While on paper this is an increase of 65%, again, our eyes would not perceive it to be so.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the quick response. Makes sense after another loo

Cheers Andrew


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## guiri (Sep 13, 2012)

Dude! I'm surprised the paint hasn't peeled off in that hallway from all the beam shots


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## cmichael (Oct 29, 2012)

turboBB said:


> Our eyes do not perceive light output in a linear fashion. Thus twice the output in lumens is not percevied to be twice as bright (if I'm not mistaken, it's more on the order of four times the output in order to be perceived as being twice as bright). I measured output of L6 @ 3020 and L5 @ 1830. While on paper this is an increase of 65%, again, our eyes would not perceive it to be so.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> ...



I got my TN30 for 1 day, Have to ship it back to Battery Junction, Due to it flick some time in L6 mode, Also I try the L6 and L5 on ceiling bounce test, It look like same brightness.


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## turboBB (Oct 31, 2012)

Sorry to hear about your flickering issues, what kind of cells are you using? Also, not sure if you've seen this thread.

As for L6 vs. L5, again, our eyes do not perceive light in a linear fashion thus it wouldn't appear that big a difference. At 30 seconds for each, I had previously measured 3020lms on L6 and 1830lms on L5.

Here is L6 and L5 side-by-side:


 

 
While there is a distinct difference, to my eyes, L6 doesn't seem to look 65% brighter vs. L5 as suggested by the lumens measurments. To me, it's more like 25-30% at best.

In real-life it's even harder for your eyes to pick this up as there are a few factors that may be potentially conspiring to lessen the differences: 
- L6 has a quick soft-ramp so it doesn't instantly go full blast immediately but rather it'll ramp to full output within a second. Due to this soft-ramp, the transition isn't abrupt but somewhat "gradual" between L5 and L6. It'll actually black out temporarily thus when switching back and forth, this may be lessening the visual transition between L5 to L6
- there's ~200lms step down just after the first minute further tightening the gap between L5 to L6
- the TN30 isn't well regulated on L6 but is on L5 thus when running on L6 output is constantly dropping but is steady on L5


Here is a three minute runtime that I captued on my light meter just now on freshly charged cells:



- I first turned it on in L6 until it stepped down just after a minute then dropped it to L5 and left it there for nearly 30 seconds (but notice how it's actually stable and in fact creeping up a little on L5)
- Then I flipped it back to L6 and left it there for approx. 15 seconds (again, note how output is subtly dropping) and then switched to L5 for a few seconds
- Next the series of peaks/troughs you see are constant flips between L6 to L5 and back but note how it'll actually dip down below 1200lms before ramping up to full output. This is where I think the gradual (even if transitioned over a second) is further lessing the effect of the visual transitions between L6/L5

It could very well be that your particular TN30 has a distinct defect where L6/L5 are not spaced far enough apart but I have a feeling that even on your replacement, you'll still be hard pressed to notice the "stated on-paper" difference between L6 to L5. This has been a common complaint with the TN30 and is a factor that manufacturer's should take into account when spacing the output levels since again, our eyes do not perceive differences in brightness in accordance to what's on paper.

Hope that helps and best of luck w/your TN30.

Cheers,
Tim


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## brightnorm (Nov 7, 2012)

A quick way to see the difference between levels 5 and 6:

Aim TN30 at ceiling, turn on level 6 and observe room for a few seconds. Then immediately switch to level five, and you will notice a very clear and distinct (though not dramatic) difference. 

If you see very little or no difference either your batteries are partially depleted, the light is malfunctioning, or both.

Brightnorm


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## cmichael (Nov 8, 2012)

turboBB said:


> Sorry to hear about your flickering issues, what kind of cells are you using? Also, not sure if you've seen this thread.
> 
> As for L6 vs. L5, again, our eyes do not perceive light in a linear fashion thus it wouldn't appear that big a difference. At 30 seconds for each, I had previously measured 3020lms on L6 and 1830lms on L5.
> 
> ...



Just got my new replacement TN30 from BatteryJunction, It all level work great, They have told me, The one I had is defected, It have a lot of flood, The throw is good for around 150 yard, I was shooting at 50 yard outdoor range with few of my pistol and can, It light up entire target and more, Very happy with this TN30, Now I have the SUPBEAM K40 on the way, Should be here next Tuesday, going to see the different between the both side by side. Any one have picture of the 2 light comparison?

Now I need  light that throw more distance, I'm in Vegas, It got light every where you go, its hard to tell the different unless going to desert,

Any LED light have good throw and flood for AR shooting around 300 to 400 yard? I'm using EagleTac 3100mah 18650.


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## turboBB (Nov 8, 2012)

I have the L3 Illumination version of the K40. It's supposed to be driven a little harder (3.5A vs. 3A). While these are not outdoor shots, it should give you an idea of the output difference via celing bounce:

*L3 Illumination K40 **(**review**)*
L6




*ThruNite TN30*
L6




and beam profile to 5m:







L: K40 | R: TN30

Don't do any shooting so can't recommend a specific light for your application but I suppose something in 2 cell config w/turob head like 7G5CS U3 or T40CS should work.

Cheers,
Tim


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## tatasal (Nov 8, 2012)

Overclocker has a photo somewhere around the forums that shows the Supbeam K40 at 3.6A


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## turboBB (Nov 8, 2012)

Yup this reply. I don't have the SupBeam version so was going by what the dealer had mentioned so I'm not certain if they were always >3A as well.

Thx,
Tim


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## xed888 (Nov 9, 2012)

Ills...


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## GReaper (Nov 22, 2012)

Just got my TN30 and TN31 today.
However there was a problem getting the TN30 to work.
It would not light at all, only on low in all modes and maybe 1 in 10 times i reseated the battery holder, it would work as it should.

After changing batteries and battery holders between the TN30 and the TN31, i found that the problem was with the battery holder.

The voltages were ok, and only after half an hour, I found the problem.

One of the metal discs on the end of the battery holder, weren't centered, so when it is put into the flashlight, it would short circuit against the wall.
Solution was easy. Just unscrew the 3 screws and recenter the disc.
I will propably insulate it even further, using either tape or paint.

Some pictures:

Before centering:











After Centering:


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## CM2010 (Nov 23, 2012)

My TN30 flickered when on L6 but i took the metal plates off the battery carrier and cleaned them with autosol to remove the coating and now it works flicker free and how it should be.

Before:






After:


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## tatasal (Nov 23, 2012)

We don't have that 'autosol' here in my place. What is that chemical made of? Any other name/description of that? When you removed the yellow coating, the 'after' disc still has a coating? What if you sand the disc, will it eventually rust? Thanks


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## CM2010 (Nov 23, 2012)

You can get autosol on ebay, you could also sandblast the metal plates if you have access to that method.

As for the ingredients:

http://www.conservationsupportsystems.com/system/assets/msds/Autosol.pdf

Where do you live?


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## tatasal (Nov 23, 2012)

Oh it's metal polish. Yes, I have access to sandblast. Thanks


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## w0by (Feb 6, 2015)

Hello all, I bought a new ThruNite TN30 Mini, I ordered the Cool White model but it just seems like it has way too much yellow to be cool white, I really didn't want a yellow shade. As you can see in my picture, the yellow on the left is my new TN 30 and to the right is my older bike LED light which is very bright but also very bright white. I contacted the company but they seem to think I have the cool white model. I don't know, because I really don't have another one to compare with. Anyone have any thoughts, maybe they sent me the wrong one? The box says cool white but I just think it has too much yellow?


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