# How do your remove stuck D-cells in a Mag 3D?



## SQ40 (Dec 4, 2005)

I have a mag 3D with a stuck 2nd battery. No ammount of shacking or prodding seems to make it loosen up at all. I have removed the bulb, but cannot find how to open the tube up to try to force it out.. Any Ideas?


----------



## pizzaman (Dec 4, 2005)

SQ40,

You probably have one or more of the cells leaking. The corrosion caused by the leak can seize the cells in the body.

Grab a can of WD40 and spray it liberally around the bottom cell. WD40 has penetrating properties and will slowly crawl around till it loosens the corrosion. Just put the flashlight away for at least 24 hours (head down) and let gravity and lubricant do the work.

You should be able to slide or "swing" the batteries out after this treatment. You can also try some gently tapping on the bottom battery to slightly push the batteries forward toward the head. This can also help break stubborn corrosion.

Good luck, Keep up posted, TR


----------



## louie (Dec 4, 2005)

The tube opens on D mags by undoing a hex setscrew inside the switch (take off the rubber and the setscrew is inside the hole in the switch center) and dropping the switch assembly down through the tube. You may still have trouble pushing the switch hard enough to move a really stuck battery. It may be easier to take the battery manufacturer up on their replacement guarantee.


----------



## Wilsonite (Dec 4, 2005)

Don't forget about the pesky snap ring that also holds the head in. It is located at the bottom of the bulb mast. (top of the actual switch assy)

I had a 4D do this. I used a combination of dunking in the tub, and WD as described above. (remove the reflector first)


HTH

Wilson


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Dec 4, 2005)

someone also mentioned trying to drill a hole in the bottom cell and use a slide hammer to knock it out. If you try that use plenty of protection etc it could be a little messy.


----------



## 3rd_shift (Dec 4, 2005)

What Louie said.
And, with a length of 3/4 inch inside diameter 40 schedule pvc pipe, hammer out the bulb post assembly from the top after leting the whole thing soak with wd40 overnight.


----------



## louie (Dec 4, 2005)

I believe you can ignore the snap ring if you do as I describe and loosen the switch and drop it down the bottom. But if it's impossible to drop the switch and battery, you may have to try undoing the snap ring, loosening the switch screw, and pulling things up the top. I've never been able to get the snap ring out myself.



Wilsonite said:


> Don't forget about the pesky snap ring that also holds the head in. It is located at the bottom of the bulb mast. (top of the actual switch assy)
> 
> I had a 4D do this. I used a combination of dunking in the tub, and WD as described above. (remove the reflector first)
> 
> ...


----------



## bfg9000 (Dec 5, 2005)

If they are brand name batteries, just send it to the battery manufacturer and they will fix it or give you a new Maglite.


----------



## RAF_Groundcrew (Dec 5, 2005)

This is why I no longer use maglites (apart from the one in my car - 6C). I have had several battery leaks that sieze the cells in place, I threw away a 6D, a 3D, and I have a slighy patch of corrosion inside one of the 6Cs I have. This has always been with brand name batteries, I just don't know why it happens, at least with lithiums, they are never usually in the light long enough to leak or corrode, if they were prone to at all.

To remove cells, try hammering a large screwdriver into the base of the cell, then make a sharp bent hook, like a fish hook, out of coat hanger wire, and push this into the hole you just made. The 'barb' should catch, allowing you to pull on the wire (with vice grips, or a bench vice) and remove the cell/s.


----------



## tron3 (Dec 5, 2005)

I had a beautiful 6 cell mag with stuck cells. I think I tried the wd-40 to no avail. After attempting to pound it out, I threw it out in disgust when it got damaged.

Another MESSY and potentially hazzardous way is by using a thick drill bit to drill and dig it out.

Sigh, when I think of the lost mod potential of that Mag... :mecry:


----------



## sween1911 (Dec 5, 2005)

Glad to hear I'm not the only one who trashed a 3D Mag after the cells leaked and seized in the barrel. 

I loved that light, too.


----------



## SQ40 (Dec 5, 2005)

A little Update..


Using a tapping motion on a hard surface, the 2nd cell came free and fell out.. BUT.. the 3rd Cell is stuck in with a ring of corrosion. I drilled a hole in the battery and inserted a long screw with a pull cord in the third battery.

A friend and I pulled on the batter and light with all of our might and after a few minutes the entire metal bottom of the batter came off.. (and we both hit the floor). So the rest of the cell is stuck in there. If the light will just come out the other end of the tube with hammering, I will try that next...


----------



## jayflash (Dec 5, 2005)

I wouldn't waste the time...because in the past, I have


----------



## jeepilot (Dec 5, 2005)

I had a stuck cell in a 2D mag. I took the top and end off, threw it against a car tire. Battery popped out, but unfortunately, the bulb post broke off.

BTW, I'm new to CPF here. I've lurked a while, and am just getting into flashlights.

Anyone know any ways to prevent cells from leaking? I heard wrapping paper around the batteries before putting them in, can prevent/help with corrosion.


----------



## greenLED (Dec 5, 2005)

SQ40 said:


> A little Update..
> 
> 
> Using a tapping motion on a hard surface, the 2nd cell came free and fell out.. BUT.. the 3rd Cell is stuck in with a ring of corrosion. I drilled a hole in the battery and inserted a long screw with a pull cord in the third battery.
> ...




Sounds like you need a new Mag host.


----------



## savumaki (Dec 5, 2005)

:wow: it certainly gives me a warm feeling to know there are so many other 
people that regularily check their bats :mecry:

K


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Dec 5, 2005)

jeepilot said:


> I had a stuck cell in a 2D mag. I took the top and end off, threw it against a car tire. Battery popped out, but unfortunately, the bulb post broke off.
> 
> BTW, I'm new to CPF here. I've lurked a while, and am just getting into flashlights.
> 
> Anyone know any ways to prevent cells from leaking? I heard wrapping paper around the batteries before putting them in, can prevent/help with corrosion.



Welcome, bring your paypal name and stay a while!!

 

-PSM


----------



## Templar223 (Dec 5, 2005)

I'm sad to say that I trashed a 4C Mag trying to get corroded batteries out. Years ago I also lost a Pelican 3C light (don't remember the model but it was a $40 light back ten years ago when I had it)... the plastic body broke on the bottom from the corrosion... less than six months after a fresh set of batteries!

That was before I joined CPF... now I know what to do with leakers in my maglights!

What pisses me off is that I'm pretty religious about checking batteries (visually and w/ voltmeter) in all my lights at least every six months...

I don't know about the rest of you guys, but it seems like the worst leakers I find (and those that trashed my 4C light) were Energizers (avoid them like the plague today... the only time I'll put Energizers in my flashlights today is when a) they are a gift from my neighbor and b) I know I'm going to use them up right away. 

I'm fed up with that bunny taking runny craps in my lights!

John


----------



## Double_A (Dec 5, 2005)

I've tried to salvage more than a few Maglights with stuck batteries. If I'm not sucsessful after 5 mins I don't bother anymore. Maglights at $20 are cheaper than my time and aggravation.


----------



## Warleader (Dec 5, 2005)

I've had this happen with AA Mags. I'm very interested in the brand of batteries that caused this problem. I have my guesses . . . . so, what brands of batteries are causing this?


----------



## NikolaTesla (Dec 6, 2005)

MagLites come apart real easy. take a 5/64 allen, loosen up the set screw, pop out the snap ring, pull the switch assembly and beat the stuck cells out with a broom stick. MagLites are very tough and hard to kill.:devil:


----------



## Threepio (Dec 6, 2005)

I just had the same problem with a SL Twintask 3C. I decided to use a hole saw to gut the bottom cell and peel it out. The saw I used was about the diameter of the exposed metal on the bottom of the cell. It didn't drill, instead the teeth grabbed the cell and spun it out, slick as a whistle. I can't wait to try this on a D-cell light!
Good luck! --Bob


----------



## bfg9000 (Dec 6, 2005)

Energizer guarantee: “We will repair or
replace, at our option, any device damaged by this battery if it is sent with
batteries to Energizer. Guarantee void if user or device recharges battery.”
http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/non-rechargeable_FAQ.pdf


----------



## Ray_of_Light (Dec 6, 2005)

As I pointed out in another thread on a similar subject, I pointed out the problem in Maglites.
The leaking batteries are due to a combination of two factors.

1) The majority of alkaline batteries will leak if subjected to continous current draw in the order of 0.01 - 0.1 mA. This is true even with brand names alkaline, especially C and D size. 

The leak is due to the degradation of the chemical "buffer" that don't allow the potassium hydroxide to corrode the zinc, and is caused from this low and continous current flow. 
As side note, the leakage wasn't an issue with old alkaline batteries, that used mercury to avoid zinc corrosion.

I have tested alkaline batteries built up to two years ago. I don't have data about the latest revision of Duracell and Energizer batteries. Very likely, they have overcome this problem.
In my tests, Duracell M3 and Energizer Ultimate of 2002 - 2003 manufacture didn't leak.

2) The way the Mag Switch is built, is prone to this small current leakage.

The combination of this two factors creates the classic "Mag with stuck alkaline". You can test if your light is OK - by simply checking the current comsuption at the tailcap with the switch turned off.

Hope this helps

Anthony


----------



## etc (Nov 10, 2015)

This valuable thread deserves to be necrobumped. 

I finally joined the stuck Maglite battery club after 20 years of using them and being careful. Gave one away as a gift. Two years later discover it has been sitting for a year, at times in freezing conditions, with leaked cells. You know how it is. Non-enthusiasts don't care to check their cells every 48 hours like we do. More like once every 48 months. If it runs down, they just leave it there, as if magically, it will start working again.

Stuck so good not sure the WD40 trick will work. I have something even stronger, PBlaster. Worth giving it a try? I think I will send the lite to Energizer.
2d. *sigh*


----------



## bykfixer (Nov 12, 2015)

Maybe set it a solid surface (with a towel between light and surface), then give it several good whacks with a rubber mallet. Rotating light every so often. That should break the bond as it were. If it's a swelling issue what was said about drilling in a screw like a deck screw or some other widened gripper screw and tug it out with string that has a slip knot on the end. 

If that don't work, freeze it a couple of days and repeat the rubber mallet deal when it thaws.


----------



## Poppy (Nov 12, 2015)

I glanced through this thread and didn't see anyone mention trying a weak acid to break the alkaline corrosion. You might try a little vinegar, see if it will seep through.

Ever try putting a baking soda/water solution onto a corroded car battery terminal? Same thing... different direction.


----------



## etc (Nov 12, 2015)

Interesting idea.


----------



## smokinbasser (Nov 12, 2015)

WD 40 is just one "penetrant" I'd personally use PB Blaster liberally and let it set for a day or two and try to move them again


----------



## Poppy (Nov 12, 2015)

It's true that many professional mechanics prefer PB Blaster to WD40, but IMO WD40 smells much nicer. PB Blaster has a stink that lingers.


----------



## Illum (Nov 12, 2015)

A combination of the tricks above will work, last time I had to pull a D out of a 3D thankfully it was the cell closest to the tailcap. I drilled a 1/8" hole about 1/3 into the cell, then force fed a 2" deck screw into that hole. A simple pair of pliers and some WD-40 made the extraction very easy


----------



## bykfixer (Nov 13, 2015)

Poppy said:


> It's true that many professional mechanics prefer PB Blaster to WD40, but IMO WD40 smells much nicer. PB Blaster has a stink that lingers.



Ah yes, the smell of diesal in the morning...then you realize you got pb blaster all over your shoes last night.


----------



## Scourie (Nov 15, 2015)

I had this with a buddies 3D a couple of weeks ago. WD40 overnight and then slamming down on a hard surface with tailcap tight, got the 2nd battery out. That didn't work for the 3rd. For that I had to take out the switch and then smash the battery out with a large hammer and 20mm bolt.

I felt obliged to fix it due to it being a modified Mag that I'd passed on to him. Although at the time I did suggest not using alkaleaks.

Rob


----------



## bykfixer (Nov 15, 2015)

^^ cool!!

I read at the bright guy "flashlight university" that as the alka discharges a chemical reaction occurs. A gas as it were. That rapid discharge or heat are what causes the gas pressure to build quickly enough to 'pop' the casing. 
They said 50-70° is best or lights that dischrage slowly (why an incan solitaire doesn't have leakage issues like a 4D for example). They said the ole "remove the batteries" thing but added "particularly when storing in automobiles.

Now what got me was "using white vinegar disolves the corosion on coated parts". That was casually mentioned before on this thread. 

I realize this thread is about removing stuck batteries, but figured a little prevention mention may help folks not have to repeat the process of hammering out popped alkalines. 

Over the years I noticed the D sized cells tended to be worse at bursting enough to get stuck. I suppose that's because the inside of the casing has enough area for more pressure to build, as in the sheer volume is enough to build more bursting psi than say a triple a. 

After reading at the 'University' I took note that my D light issues were in lights stored in heat or used for extended runs and stored with the batteries inside. When done with my 2D mag pro, I immediately remove the cells now. So far, so good. But it's the incan models that slurp up energy the fastest...and those were always the ones with popped batteries.


----------



## adrock25 (Nov 16, 2015)

Unfortunately I usually trash them if I can't shake them out


----------



## dcmartin (Nov 25, 2015)

Had a 6 D Mag that I thought was lost. Found it with the 6 corroded cells inside..... An absolute nightmare to remove. The first 3 i was able to drill and insert a very large screw, they put up a fight but they came loose. The second 3 were just toast, wound up breaking them up, flooding the tube with WD40 and letting it sit. After a few days, I was able to get them out. The tube was toast and the threads on the tail cap were half gone. Learned a valuable lesson :shakehead


----------



## lumen aeternum (Nov 27, 2015)

NikolaTesla said:


> MagLites come apart real easy. take a 5/64 allen, loosen up the set screw, pop out the snap ring, pull the switch assembly and beat the stuck cells out with a broom stick. MagLites are very tough and hard to kill.:devil:



TFFFFFTF << after typing "W" on the next line, it started typing up here. Not the first time on CPF either
There's a hole into which a 5/64 fits, but its round. Nothing catching deep inside either. W


----------



## lumen aeternum (Nov 27, 2015)

How do you get the snap ring out? lever with a hooked dental pick?


----------



## etc (Nov 28, 2015)

Scourie said:


> I had this with a buddies 3D a couple of weeks ago. WD40 overnight and then slamming down on a hard surface with tailcap tight, got the 2nd battery out. That didn't work for the 3rd. For that I had to take out the switch and then smash the battery out with a large hammer and 20mm bolt.
> 
> I felt obliged to fix it due to it being a modified Mag that I'd passed on to him. Although at the time I did suggest not using alkaleaks.
> 
> Rob



Pray tell, how did you remove the switch if the only way to remove the switch is via the bottom end where the batteries reside? And since the batteries are stuck, this seems an impossibility.

Like in this video - he pushes it out via the tailcap. And you cannot remove it from the front because it's sealed. I am really puzzled. 

Pics? Video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W56QPW9Igv4


----------



## swampgator (Nov 29, 2015)

Somewhere I posted on how I got three stuck cells out of a 3D Mag. 

I ultimately had to the drill through the cell closest to the switch and collapse the cell onto itself. Forget if I used any WD-40. But I took a cylinder hone and honed out all the remaining corrosion.


----------



## Kicker18 (Nov 29, 2015)

The tail cap on one of my d cell mags has gotten stuck and won't come off. Super annoying.


----------



## etc (Nov 29, 2015)

Explain? 

drill through the cell closest to the switch and collapse the cell onto itself.


----------



## etc (Nov 29, 2015)

Threepio said:


> I just had the same problem with a SL Twintask 3C. I decided to use a hole saw to gut the bottom cell and peel it out. The saw I used was about the diameter of the exposed metal on the bottom of the cell. It didn't drill, instead the teeth grabbed the cell and spun it out, slick as a whistle. I can't wait to try this on a D-cell light!
> Good luck! --Bob



what is a "hole saw".


----------



## Illum (Dec 1, 2015)

One of these: http://www.walmart.com/ip/48022086?...5419954&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=176153459074&veh=sem

You would chuck it in a drill and it will bore a hole of a designed diameter in wood, usually in wood, but they do have ones for metal


----------



## swampgator (Dec 1, 2015)

etc said:


> Explain?
> 
> drill through the cell closest to the switch and collapse the cell onto itself.


If this was directed at me, I'll try..

But it's been about 10 years...

A 3D Mag. Sitting for a few years. Stuck Ray O Vacs. 

The cell closest to the tail cap and the middle cell came out easily enough. A little WD-40 and some persuasion.. 

The cell closest to the switch was the completely corroded cell. So I took the switch out from the front by removing the spring clip. 

I then used the longest and largest drill bit I could find. I'm drawing a blank on the size. But I drilled through the center of the cell. Then I used a hammer and large flat head screwdriver to collapse the center onto itself. That took a bit of time.

Then I used a cylinder hone to clean up the inside of the tube.

Hope this helps..

As an aside, if the light hadn't had sentimental value (it was Dad's last department light before they switched to MagChargers) I would have just sent it to Maglite for replacement.


----------



## lumen aeternum (Dec 2, 2015)

swampgator said:


> So I took the switch out from the front by removing the spring clip.



HOW ??? I can't grab it or lever it enough. No little holes for snap ring pliers.


----------



## Tepeka (Dec 3, 2015)

I had this happen to a 2D years ago. Couldn't get it out and ended up trashing the light. Must have used half a can of WD40!


----------



## swampgator (Dec 3, 2015)

lumen aeternum said:


> HOW ??? I can't grab it or lever it enough. No little holes for snap ring pliers.


Honestly, I've never had a problem getting it out with a flat head screwdriver.


----------



## Archangel72 (Dec 3, 2015)

Umm its a Mag stop wasting time on it and go buy another.... Would have been my theory


----------



## ForrestChump (Dec 3, 2015)

Order Superlube *oil* on Amazon. Comes in a ketchup looking bottle. It's dielectric and will not harm electronics or corrode anything but is super slick stuff.

Give it a swirl along the seem of the batteries and tube. Let it sit a few.

Find a safe location. Tie some paracord securely under the head then helicopter that sucker until you have flying batteries.

Wear googles and a helmet, expect some cleanup, use common sense. Attempt at your own risk. Make sure the dog / kids are inside. Do not try this at home ect ect...





I think this would have the lowest impact on the light. You can also contact the battery manufacturer. Im sure its been mentioned but I skipped reading the thread.


----------



## swampgator (Dec 6, 2015)

Archangel72 said:


> Umm its a Mag stop wasting time on it and go buy another.... Would have been my theory


Unless the light has sentimental value or you like a project.. 

All kinds of reasons someone would undertake a project like this...

Disposable is NOT always better.


----------



## ForrestChump (Dec 6, 2015)

swampgator said:


> Unless the light has sentimental value or you like a project..
> 
> All kinds of reasons someone would undertake a project like this...
> 
> Disposable is NOT always better.



He's just sharing what he would do. I'd likely do the same. I compulsively throw things away.

However, for those who like to salvage things like this, I think it's all the better. As mentioned disposable isn't always better.




Now OP.....do we have a fixed Maglight yet? Whats the status? Plenty of tips here.


----------



## Wyreless (Dec 11, 2015)

bfg9000 said:


> If they are brand name batteries, just send it to the battery manufacturer and they will fix it or give you a new Maglite.



I have done this with Eveready before. Also, if you ever get some leaky batts that dont ruin anything its worth sending in a complaint. You will get some fairly good coupons for some Free Batteries.


----------



## Sambob (Dec 17, 2015)

Happened In my 1st 3 D cell maglite It took myself and the help of a couple of maintenance guys to figure out how too remove the switch then pounded out the stuck cell, when It happened again some 15yrs later I simply gutted It and tossed It Into the recycling bin and bought a new one, converted It to LED and run rechargeable AA battery's In D-cell adapters.
Most of my problems were because of "cheap" battery's the heavy duty/Industrial type and Energizer alkaline.


----------



## smokinbasser (Dec 17, 2015)

Another option is to drill a hole in the base and install a zerk fitting and fill it up with grease, don't aim it at anything you don't want killed or damaged. Hydraulics can move just about anything you can imagine.


----------



## lumen aeternum (Dec 24, 2015)

I have a feeling its cross threaded somehow; the Bust-A-Cap tail was rough getting on.

If it is battery corrosion, I can't send it to the battery company until I open it up & discover what brand it is.

Think I'm gonna have to chop it and then see if I can peel the tube stub off the bust a cap to salvage the cap.


----------



## etc (Dec 24, 2015)

Nothing is working for me. used a boatload of PBlaster, drilled the battery, beat the bottom of it as hard as I could. It is stuck. Cannot get them out of 3D. They leaked and have been in that condition for possibly a year. In freezing temperature. So they are stuck pretty good. Almost ready to throw the damn thing out.

Mental note: don't give out 3D Mags as gifts to non-torch people. They will ruin it, inevitably. Myself, I will probably never buy one anyway. 

You can probably get a used LED Mag for between 10-20, S&H included, on your fav online auction.


----------



## swampgator (Dec 26, 2015)

etc,
PM sent.


----------



## lunas (Dec 26, 2015)

The alkaline substance is potassium hydroxide it is extra vulnerable to water and it will dissolve readily... Soak the host in hot water get the cel to move a little use more water then it should come free dry the host well before new batteries are used.

And Nimh will not leak like alkalines and they sell them in c and d cell sizes...


----------



## watt4 (Dec 27, 2015)

has anyone tried drilling a hole in the side of the light? then using a screwdriver to poke into the battery and "lever" it to break it loose.

theory only, I have not tried this. I figure keeping a light with a couple holes in it is better than tossing it.


I eventually will have to address this problem (with a non-maglite flashlight)


----------

