# Wilton 450S 'Bullet Vise' restoration



## precisionworks (Oct 22, 2010)

Without a doubt one of the toughest vises in the world, often seen in shops that don't know the meaning of gentle or careful. Nearly impossible to kill, but $600 is a bunch to pay for any vise.

Got this one for $210 delivered. Subtract the value of the new jaws it has ($75) and the price was right. Not cheap, but not bad for a piece in pretty good condition. She's pretty new, made in August of 1980 (date is stamped on the bottom of the key on each Bullet Vise).

Here she is in all her fuglyness:







If you think she looks nasty now, you should have seen her before the grease was melted off in the hot caustic tank:shakehead

These are the component parts of a 450S:






The jaws (at least) are a thing of beauty:






The face of the casting was a little rough (as cast) so a trip to the lathe gave it a nicer look. I will not show the lathe setup, as I wouldn't want anyone else to try it. Safe, yes ... scary, yes 






If my Better Half doesn't load me down with projects tomorrow, the top of the anvil will be resurfaced on the mill:






A close look at the "exploded" photo shows why the Wilton Bullet is so strong. The nut (the long cylindrical part) is supported by the back of the main casting. The main casting is drilled & then reamed to accept the turned tube that supports the front jaw. I've never seen a broken Wilton Bullet, but someone surely has.






The only part not well done is the cap that goes on the end ... just a stamped steel shell. I'll bore the bottom part (it's around 1.950" now) just enough to clean up the hole, and turn a matching part for a Class IV fit. The interference needs to be around .0003" to .0004".


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## wquiles (Oct 23, 2010)

Good project. Are you going to re-paint it when done, or powder coat it, or (something else)?


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## precisionworks (Oct 23, 2010)

> Are you going to re-paint it when done, or powder coat it, or (something else)?


I bought a couple of colors of Rust-Oleum Hammered (neither of my stores now carries Hammerite). The photo below came from the web, but that vise is close to the color of mine, sort of a medium hammered green. 






My Starrett Athol Vise (Model 924 1/2) was free from a company I worked for. Athol Vise sold to L. S. Starrett around 1910, Starrett added their name, and sold the Starrett Athol vise until around 1970 ... at that time this vise sold for over $500. Paint is Hammerite green, which looks like a lighter color than the deep green from Rust-Oleum:






The Rust-Oleum green is my choice for now ... but I have some other hammered colors to try if the green isn't the best look.


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## wyager (Oct 23, 2010)

that thing is a monster! I'm here with my $30 amazon.com vice...


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## precisionworks (Oct 23, 2010)

> that thing is a monster!


It's all a matter of perspective :nana:

The UPS guy groaned when he brought the box to the shop door, and groaned again when I asked him to bring it inside & put it on the workbench. Geez, he didn't even have to disassemble the vise  Wilton lists the weight at 71#.

While at the auto machine shop (where the hot caustic dip tank is located) the owner showed me the Wilton 500S that his father used over 60 years ago. The 500S is noticeably larger than the 450S, even though the jaw is only 1/2" wider. Wilton shows this one at 96#.

The Bad Boy in their lineup is the 800S with 8" jaw width ... and a weight of 238#(108 kg) :thumbsup:

Their latest color is shown below ... but it looks too "new" for an older vise.


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## billcushman (Oct 23, 2010)

I have had a 450S Wilton Vise for about 50 years. I can't remember what it cost new. I still have the original box. Mine is still in perfect condition. I use it very infrequently, usually to do something trivial like cutting off a 8-32 screw. I also have the brass jaw covers for holding delicate items that would be damaged by the regular jaws. 

When I purchased it I wanted a very high quality vise that opened wide to hold large objects. I think you made a good purchase of a fine product. When you get it restored, it should look and work like new.


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## precisionworks (Oct 24, 2010)

Got in a couple of hours of machine time between cleaning up leaves & installing gutter covers :devil:

The tailpiece section had a cast in 'bore' which was not concentric with the machined surfaced (the part that fits into the rear of the main body casting). When gripped in the 3-jaw, runout was around .125", so that wasn't going to fly. Pulled the 3-jaw, mounted the 4-jaw, dialed in the part for a minimum reading of +/- .005" ... no way to do any better, as that was the ovality of the casting. Took a total cut of .030" on the radius, and went in .225" (see DRO below):






The bore finished out decently. The Starrett 123 master vernier was used as a comparative tool to measure the ID - instead of direct reading from the vernier scale, a micrometer was used to measure over the tips of the vernier. ID measured 2.0605", and the reading repeated half a dozen times so I was confident in the number.






Pulled the 4-jaw & started to slide the 3-jaw into the spindle nose but noticed a little problem ... just enough swarf to totally screw up the seating of the 3-jaw, and cause massive runout (massive meaning lots more than a few tenths):






A couple of blasts of compressed air got rid of the chips, the recess was wiped down with a clean cloth, and the 3-jaw mounted. The rear of the vise nut was rough cast, so it got turned smooth:






A short piece of 6061 aluminum, 2.5" diameter, was gripped in the chuck & faced:






Insert is the high positive CNMG-432HA from Curt at LatheInserts. Speed set to 2000 rpm with a few light cuts to true the face. The spindle is running at full speed in the photo above, but on camera flash froze the action.

Took the diameter from 2.500" to 2.300" on the first pass, then down to 2.100". A few more light cuts brought the OD to 2.0610", so the part was .0005" over bore size. Took the part out of the chuck, tried to tap it into the bore, but fit was much too tight ... breaking the tail piece would mean at least a weeks delay getting a new part from Wilton, and probably close to $100 for the part 

Since the DRO on the lathe only reads to .0002" on the radius, no more cutting could be done with an insert (moving in .0002" would reduce diameter .0004" and the part would not have enough interference for a tight fit). Diameter needed to come down by at least .0001", maybe just a bit more.

A small piece of 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper was wrapped over the edge of a square Arkansas stone, and the paper took the diameter down after half a dozen efforts. Tried the fit again, still just a little tight, needed to take off another .00005". Switched abrasives to a maroon non woven pad (again supported by the square Arkansas stone) and took off the last bit. A trial fit showed the tightness I wanted, without fear of breaking the casting.






Final diameter of the part is .00035" (3.5 tenths) over bore diameter (interpolating the tenths scale on my Mitu mic). Most customers would call that a 15 minute job, but swapping chucks twice, boring, turning, trial fitting & sneaking up on the correct fit (plus clean up of the machine & putting tools away) took about 10X that long ... a little over two hours :nana:


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## Anak (Oct 24, 2010)

Nice!

I really want one of those bullet vises.

A friend once bought an old work truck that had one mounted on the back. He fixed the truck up a bit and turned around and sold it--and let the vise go with it. I have kicked myself a number of times for not having expressed more interest in that vise. He would have been happy to let me trade it for another to mount in its place.

Oh well.

I keep my eyes open for another. Some day I will find a good deal on one.

I won't be able to fix it up as well as you are doing on that one though. That is gonna be good for a couple more lifetimes by the time you are done with it.


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## cmacclel (Oct 24, 2010)

I guess I got a good deal when a friend said here I grabbed a vise for you  Is that a 450?


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## precisionworks (Oct 24, 2010)

> Is that a 450?


Can't tell from the photo, but identification is easy. 






Jaw width is the key :thumbsup:

Here's a neat online catalog of Wilton Industrial Vises (first time it came up on a search). It mentions that the vise is made from 60,000 psi Ductile Iron - it turns and cuts more like steel than cast iron. Curly chips are formed, not the short chipping dust produced by "regular" Grey Cast Iron.

http://content.wiltontool.com/catalogs/wilton_vise_brochure1.pdf


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## cmacclel (Oct 24, 2010)

It's a 350s 

Mac


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## unterhausen (Oct 24, 2010)

I bought one of the Wilton bullet vises new when I was in high school. I never really liked it, the pin that holds the rear cap on was very fragile. I gave it away when I joined the Air Force. I'm not all that happy with my 6" Chinese vise, but I would only get another Wilton if it was outrageously inexpensive.


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## precisionworks (Oct 24, 2010)

> the pin that holds the rear cap on was very fragile


I cannot say if all the machinists vises are like mine, but every diagram shows a pair of pins (one driven in from each side) that capture both the rear cap & the nut (parts 4 & 5 below):






ON EDIT: There was a smaller version of the Machinists Vise called the Cadet, and it used pins that are much smaller in diameter & look less sturdy. Did yours look like this:


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## precisionworks (Oct 24, 2010)

Got the main casting & wire brushed it, first on the 14" power brush (which got old quickly, as the casting is heavy) and then with the Metabo grinder and stringer bead brush:






The brown apron is top grain cow hide that was purchased from a local saddle shop & sewn by Mr. Kim, the best tailor in this area (great on shoes & boots too). The wire wheel sometimes catches & gets thrown into the apron, which brings it to a dead stop :devil:

The cleaned casting was bolted to the mill table & the 45° high shear face mill took down the surface. Specks in the photo are tiny bits of ductile iron ... a million of which now cover the mill & the floor. Speed was 1500 rpm, about 750 sfpm, with DOC at .020" per pass for two passes.






Finished anvil - paint comes next:


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## wyager (Oct 24, 2010)

Lookin' great!


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## mototraxtech (Oct 24, 2010)

looks good


I bet that was the easiest thing you can bolt down on the mill. Not many things have nice bolt holes on the bottom to bolt to the bed!


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## cmacclel (Oct 25, 2010)

Barry looking good but why did you not sandblast it?

Mac


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## 65535 (Oct 25, 2010)

cmacclel said:


> Barry looking good but why did you not sandblast it?
> 
> Mac



At least IMHO wire brushing castings like that leaves a more natural original cast finish, where as sand blasting would have completely changed the surface. All that needed to be done was remove any heavy oxidation and paint. It's also a lot less messy and just as fast.


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## precisionworks (Oct 25, 2010)

> wire brushing castings like that leaves a more natural original cast finish, where as sand blasting would have completely changed the surface.


+1

I don't have a blast cabinet at the shop, but one of my customers does (about a mile away), always ready with medium/fine glass beads. The last time I used it was to clean the back of a 14" cast iron face plate - getting that clean would have been really difficult with any other means.

The Wilton is lots easier, as all surfaces are easy to reach with either the 14" wire brush or the brush on the angle grinder.



> All that needed to be done was remove any heavy oxidation and paint. It's also a lot less messy and just as fast.


The cleanup wasn't bad, especially after the parts came out of the hot caustic cleaning tank. After wire brushing, each part was sprayed down with brake cleaner, which seems to dissolve anything on earth except steel & cast iron :nana:. The brake cleaner was wiped off & the part sprayed again until no more dark residue showed on a white shop towel.

Even with bead blast, the part needs final cleaning with brake cleaner (or acetone, lacquer thinner, etc.)

The first post was edited to add the date of manufacture, 08-1980. According to one of the many Wilton sites on the web, the date is stamped on the bottom of the key (the part that guides the moving jaw into the main casting). No surprise that the vise is in such good shape, as 30 years on a Bullet Vise is like 1000 miles on a car engine ... just barely broken in :nana:


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## cmacclel (Oct 25, 2010)

precisionworks said:


> Even with bead blast, the part needs final cleaning with brake cleaner (or acetone, lacquer thinner, etc.)



I guess that depends on how dirty the media is. When speaking with the Cerakote people they specifically say do not use any chemicals after the giving the part the blast profile, only to blow the part off with compressed air.

Mac


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## precisionworks (Oct 25, 2010)

> they specifically say do not use any chemicals after the giving the part the blast profile


That's interesting ... on a smooth part (like a titanium or aluminum light) wiping with a clean cloth should be good, but rough parts (like the face plate I blasted) feel gritty until they are solvent cleaned & blown off.


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## cmacclel (Oct 25, 2010)

precisionworks said:


> That's interesting ... on a smooth part (like a titanium or aluminum light) wiping with a clean cloth should be good, but rough parts (like the face plate I blasted) feel gritty until they are solvent cleaned & blown off.



Barry I usually never wipe a part after it has been blasted as 80% of the time I end up with a tiny lint stringy thing hanging from it and only notice this after it's almost all painted 

Mac


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## 350xfire (Oct 25, 2010)

Very nice!


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## Stillphoto (Oct 25, 2010)

I absolutely love seeing resto's like this...Especially when it's going to involve a Hammerite type finish. 

It's one of those finishes you've seen a million times but seldom appreciate until you refinish something in it yourself.


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## precisionworks (Oct 25, 2010)

Had just enough time late this afternoon to apply the first coat. It has to cure for 48 hours before a recoat. Hammertone is the best for hiding small surface defects:


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## cy (Oct 26, 2010)

looking good... my bullet Wilton has been old faithful...
my large vise is a Reed 406 ... weight must be pushing 200lbs


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## precisionworks (Oct 26, 2010)

> my large vise is a Reed 406 ... weight must be pushing 200lbs


I' envious :twothumbs Reed is one of the best known of the classic vise manufacturers. Every one I've looked at sold for a bunch.

Same with a Hay-Budden anvil ... which I still don't have.


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## unterhausen (Oct 26, 2010)

for most of the work I do, I think I want an old Columbian. My Wilton looked like the one in the OP. I probably should have given it to my dad or kept it.


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## precisionworks (Oct 26, 2010)

> I think I want an old Columbian


Funny you should mention that name ... one of the guys on the Garage Journal BB say he has " a TON of used vises. Reed, Prentiss, Rock Island, Athol, Morgan, Columbian, Parker, Hollands, and a few others. Parker and Reed are the best in my book, but all are very good."

Don't know anything about his pricing, but he qualifies as a viseaholic :nana:

And he picked up an old, round ram Bridgy this year, so he can't be all bad ... especially since it came with "vise, power feed, and an indexing head. Total cost with rigging/lumber/diesel/mill/tooling was ~$800" 

Looks like another good bargain hunter.


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## 350xfire (Oct 26, 2010)

That vice is looking great!


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## wquiles (Oct 26, 2010)

350xfire said:


> That vice is looking great!



+1

:thumbsup:


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## precisionworks (Oct 29, 2010)

Got back on the vise today, deciding not to give a second coat of paint until she gets a scratch or two 






The jaws are new & sharp, but dull looking on top, so they were set up on the surface grinder. Photo above shows magnetic blocking on each end to keep the jaw in place if the operator gets too aggressive with the cut.






The wheel is taking about .006" off per pass.






The original thrust washer (on the right above) showed a good bit of wear after only 30 years of use. It seemed a bit too thin, so I turned a thicker replacement from a piece of 4340HT that was left over from another job. The OD was sized to just fit the depression on the front face of the vise, and both sides of the new washer were surface ground so there's only .003" clearance.






Close view of the new washer showing the fit.






No offense toward Wilton, buy my solution is much cleaner & provides more support. But it involves turning, drilling, parting, surface grinding both sides, etc., which would make a high priced vise even more costly.


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## 350xfire (Oct 29, 2010)

You are like a Jedi master of machining!


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## precisionworks (Oct 30, 2010)

> like a Jedi master of machining!


Anyone on this board can do the same - if there's any secret to getting it right it's to think through the entire series of ops before making the first cut. The last op is always where the fatal flaw shows up - on the thrust washer, that was hack sawing the two cuts to make the slot, and a mess up there would have killed a couple of hours of work. 

I go more slowly as the part is near completion. Rushing or getting distracted has spoiled more parts than anything else.


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## precisionworks (Nov 1, 2010)

All finished ...


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## cmacclel (Nov 1, 2010)

Barry thats looks very nice! Great job with the paint!


Mac


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## wquiles (Nov 1, 2010)

cmacclel said:


> Barry thats looks very nice! Great job with the paint!
> 
> 
> Mac



+1

It almost looks too good to use :devil:

Will


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## modamag (Nov 1, 2010)

Nice look vise, Barry! :wave:
Although not my kinda color (only Bridgeport battleship blue for me) but definitely appreciate the passion for good old american hunk of steel.


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## OCD (Nov 1, 2010)

Makes my Erie Tool Superior No. 44 look like a pin vise! :shakehead But is was my grandpa's so it is sentimental to me.

A+ Work! :thumbsup:


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## wyager (Nov 1, 2010)

Dayum! Looking great! The paint color is not my cup of tea, but you did a great job with it...


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## precisionworks (Nov 2, 2010)

No one is worse at picking colors, which is why my wife chooses what I wear whenever we go out :nana:



> Great job with the paint!


Thanks, Mac.

The hammered paints are very forgiving as long as the surface is oil free ... the can states that the paint can be applied to a rusty surface if needed. They hide surface defects better than any other paint I've tried, even with only one coat - and touch up is easy.

Starting on the mounting plate for the vise, which is 3/8" thick and 10" square ...


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## Burgess (Aug 27, 2011)

I *thoroughly enjoyed* reading this fine thread !


Thank you for sharing it with us.


:wow::goodjob::kewlpics::thanks:
_


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## Burgess (Aug 27, 2011)

BTW -- after reading this, i went in the garage to look at OUR old vise.
My father (who lives with me) has had this vise as long as i can remember, and i'm 58.

Alas . . . .


It apparently did NOT make the trip, when we Moved 3 years ago.




But i recall it was Green in color, and it said "Littleton Pa." on the side.


Does this fact tell you anything ? ? ?


Thank you for any information you can provide.

I had *no idea* an old vise could be So Interesting to so many people !

lovecpf
_


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## precisionworks (Aug 28, 2011)

> I had *no idea* an old vise could be So Interesting to so many people !


Vises & anvils are two items that evoke a strong response from those mechanically inclined. Harder to understand "anvil desire" as there are no moving parts, yet people readily spend hundreds & even thousands of dollars for the perfect anvil.

Garage Journal has the best vise info on the web IMO. That's where I found out how to disassemble the Bullet Vise without destroying it. 

A great restoration here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42888

If you REALLY want to read about lots of neat older vises, a must read is "The Vises of Garage Journal". Almost 3000 posts, but you'll have to sign up to view many of the photos: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44782

I don't post a lot on GJ, but have purchased quite a few hand tools from their BST classified section. Always a bunch of Snap-On, Mac, S&K, and other top end tools, some priced higher than retail & others priced to sell fast.

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Some may remember the project shown above. Before mounting the gearmotor, the "backbone" of the square tube frame was clamped in the jaws of the Wilton vise & each of the four main tubes were welded on. This required turning the frame every which way so that the welding torch could access the joint being welded. Since that material weighs 5.41# per foot, the entire frame assembly ended up at 108#. The Wilton vise never let the material slip, even though the frame was hanging out in space as far as 36" from the jaws


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## BVH (Aug 28, 2011)

What a beautiful restoration! The green is very attractive. I like the Hammerite a little more, though.


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## Burgess (Aug 28, 2011)

Thank you for that Link to Garage Journal !


Found what i was looking for.


Now i know, embossed on the side of our old vise
was *Littlestown* , not Littleton ! 


:goodjob::thanks:
_


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## cy (Sep 20, 2011)

how's the Wilton holding up? like there's going to be any answer except Great!
yup garage journal is the place for Vises and old floor jack rebuilds. 

speaking of Anvils... after working on my buddy to sell me his 200lb Arm & Hammer Anvil for 15 years... finally caught him in a moment of weakness.... he was trying to raise $$$ for a new Harley. 

took that bad boy home... 200lb Arm & Hammer in excellent condition with sharp edges and flat top. told myself if I purchased the 200lb one, then my 165lb Peter Wright had to go.... sniff sniff... posted the Peter Wright on Craiglist and someone jumped on it. 

fast forward a few months... an anvil ad came up with no ID... he said it took two strong men to move it. they had to stair step it into the truck. I'll be right over I said...

turned out to be an old Peter Wright Anvil that belonged to his great grandpa from 1830. it was heavy and tricky to load into my truck. but I cheated by having a hydraulic lift table with me. 

got that Peter Wright anvil and weight it on my tippy scales ... an astounding 270lbs!!!
after looking for a 200lb anvil for years with no success. seem all the large anvils come up for sale on the east coast. 

Now I've got a 200lb Arm & Hammer and 270lb Peter Wright ... my cup runnth over

pics soon


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## precisionworks (Sep 20, 2011)

> how's the Wilton holding up?


Without a doubt one of the most useful tools in the shop. One of my friends thought I was nuts for spending that much time & effort on "an old vise" but is was well worth the trouble.






To assemble the frame shown above the Wilton gripped the backbone tube while the lateral tubes were positioned & tacked on. Each of the four laterals weighs 18# & the backbone weighs 24# so the vise was holding on to 96# with most of it hanging 36" out in space. It never let anything slip or move.



> Now I've got a 200lb Arm & Hammer and 270lb Peter Wright


That is awesome. I'd be happy to get a Hay-Budden, Peter Wright, or any other nice steel anvil.


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## StrikerDown (Sep 27, 2011)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/38037125295...m1423.l2649&autorefresh=true&autorefresh=true

Dang you Barry!


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## precisionworks (Sep 27, 2011)

Looks like someone got a better deal on their vise than I did


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## StrikerDown (Sep 27, 2011)

This one didn't have the word Bullet in the description so I thing it didn't get the coverage from the Bullet seekers. 
Although tons more vise that anything I have ever had I really wanted a 3.5"-4.5" inch but this one being NIB just had some extra curb appeal! Plus the price was right!! 

I have been looking at a rusty from storage but new and unused 3.5" on eBay going for $345.xx was just too much for a hobby tool. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130579346306?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Shucks, it just dawned on me... I'll be 90 - 100 years old by the time I need to refurbish this one. 

Move over Chinese boat anchor!


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## StrikerDown (Sep 27, 2011)

I just got this message:

"This vise is on a caontainer that is running late. We expect that it will be here next Friday and we will ship this out to you as soon as we receive it. We didn't know that it was going to be delayed and apologize for any inconvenience. I will be issuing you a refund of the shipping charge for the trouble. I hope that this will make up for it."

Seller has a 100% rating and over 6,100 transactions, so it's probably legit. But, now the wait begins. I guess I could rough out some soft jaws in the mean time!


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## cy (Sep 28, 2011)

here's a pic of my Reed #406 vise that weights about 200lbs 
that's a D cell battery, 6in jaws for size comp. 

Jaws opens up 12in wide. folks that rebuild hydraulic cylinders are always looking for one. 











Sweet 270lb Peter Wright Anvil


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## precisionworks (Sep 28, 2011)

> folks that rebuild hydraulic cylinders are always looking for one.


+1

I had to return a cylinder that was impossible to open ... but would have been (pretty) easy with that big Reed.


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