# my new 2250 lumens pocket size ssr-90 5 modes flashlight



## moviles

on the mte sf-15






with the 2250 lumens ssr-90:





------------------------ssc p7,--- ssr-90,----- ssr-50,--cree XR-E ez900 q5







with 5 modes 




q1: power mosfet t70n03( 71 amp max)
ic1: microcontroler 12f629 http://talkingelectronics.com/projects/StartHere12F629/StartHere12F629-P1.html
d2: protection led
d1: protection ic1


and 71 amp power mosfet transistor t70n03











more powerfull than 2xp7




mte sf-22 p7------------------------------------mte sf-15 5 modes SSR-90

at very hight current powered with 1x aw18650 imr (16 amp max):




10 amp

I use it in mid or low mode and only when I really need many many light I use the high mode because its very very hot flashlight
40ºc 45 seconds
50ºc 2 min
55ºc 3 min


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## bigchelis

At 9A at the tail in a Mag 1D hosts with Britelumens heatsink and tons of cooling paste Nailbender got some real out the front lumen readings.


1455 instant peak out the front lumens at 9A, but it was down to 750 lumens after 3 minutes.


Also,
A Mac Custom 3 P7 Mag build with 2 AW li-0n C cells was tested at the San Jose, CA local meet by MrGman. It was 1150 out the front with 3 P7's. So, as you can imagine 2 P7's will create soo much heat that you loose the potential lumens ASAP. If you get 1000 out the front from 2 P7's regardless of the current and total watts you got extremely lucky. 

So, of course 1400 instant peak lumens will look brighter than 1000ish


Good build, but this SST-90 has already been tested in a real IS Sphere and while they do make 40watts of power, the out the front lumens are lost due to heat.


This SST-90 was driven at 5A by Nailbender and he got 1200 out the front lumens steady, with no noticeable drop... It looks like less is more with these.


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## csshih

at least you're using IMRs.. :shrug:

heatsinking man..


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## moviles

more images


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## moviles

bigchelis said:


> At 9A at the tail in a Mag 1D hosts with Britelumens heatsink and tons of cooling paste Nailbender got some real out the front lumen readings.
> 
> 
> 1455 instant peak out the front lumens at 9A, but it was down to 750 lumens after 3 minutes.
> 
> 
> Also,
> A Mac Custom 3 P7 Mag build with 2 AW li-0n C cells was tested at the San Jose, CA local meet by MrGman. It was 1150 out the front with 3 P7's. So, as you can imagine 2 P7's will create soo much heat that you loose the potential lumens ASAP. If you get 1000 out the front from 2 P7's regardless of the current and total watts you got extremely lucky.
> 
> So, of course 1400 instant peak lumens will look brighter than 1000ish
> 
> 
> This SST-90 was driven at 5A by Nailbender and he got 1200 out the front lumens steady, with no noticeable drop... It looks like less is more with these.



true.
I have luxometer and my new sst-90 flashlight in luxes in a closed room its powerfull like my tactical hid 24w 1400 lumens

and my new sst-90 flashlight its more powerfull in luxes in a closed room than :
1 p7 bin D flashlight @ 3.9 amp *+* 1 p7 bin D flashlight @4.65 amp + 1 XR-E ez1000 bin q5 flashlight @ 1.3 amp


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## ma_sha1

Great job,

How do you get 10A? Other has tried DD using AW IMR 18650 & get <3A?

is this a boost driver?


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## moviles

ma_sha1 said:


> Great job,
> 
> How do you get 10A? Other has tried DD using AW IMR 18650 & get <3A?
> 
> is this a boost driver?



they are necessary thick wires






and the springs have high resistence. I fixed it






10 amp its direct drect drive bypassing the mosfet .
with the 5 modes circuit current draw its only 7.5-8 amp because the mosfet trasistor has 0.1v drain-source (-0.1v with the 5 modes circuit)......sorry for my bad english


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## moviles

finished too my ssr-50 flashlight its direct drived , current draw arround 5 amp the spot its really nice .
but its only a litle bit more powerful than my other p7 flashlight @4.65 amp




the spot its much better with ssr-50
aurora c6 p7 bin D @4.65 amp:1400 lux @1m
aurora c6 ssr-50 @5 amp:4200 [email protected] 1m

but with tiablo collimator(aspherical) :
ssr50 @5 amp:22000 [email protected]
XR-E ez900 q5 @2.95 amp:72000 [email protected]















really great spot but only a litle bit more powerful than p7

I like much more the great and powerful SSR-90, I really love it


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## Al Combs

I saw another post of yours where everyone kept telling you you can't beat physics, blah, blah, blah. It's a good thing you didn't listen. Very nice project.


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## nailbender

Awesome job glad someone got the juice to them.


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## vincebdx

moviles said:


> *really great spot but only a litle bit more powerful than p7*
> 
> I like much more the great and powerful SSR-90, I really love it


What's the sst led bin ?


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## moviles

vincebdx said:


> What's the sst led bin ?



my SSR-50 are evaluation module maybe before bins..... unknow bin






but maybe too can be low bin:






my SSR-50 @5 amp its only a litle bit more powerfull than my p7 bin D flashlight @ 4.65 amp.

but my SSR-50 @5 amp its much* powerful than some other flashlights with p7 bin D @2.8-3 amp

* arround 10-20 % more powerful

the spot of the SSR-50 its nice with small reflector (1 inch) maybe with big reflector the spot can be really really nice


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## Daylight

Great job my friend!!

Not the best body where you can put a beast like SSR-90 but nice, very nice....

Thanks for show this!!


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## Aircraft800

Great Job moviles!! 

Definitely a first for this new LED! I can't wait to see all of the new projects you inspire.


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## Linger

moviles,
what are you driving the -50 with? you said direct drive, please post as many details as you can...


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## Nitroz

I think to really get the most from the SST-90 it is going to need a nice heat pipe or some active cooling to control the drop. I don't think that a Mag body is going to be a good fit for the SST-90, it is going to need to be something larger. I say that this light should be built around the heat management and not the other way around.


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## moviles

linger said:


> moviles,
> what are you driving it with? you said direct drive, please post as many details as you can...



I use a 5 mode driver from my mte sf-15 (the mte sf-22 has the same driver)

the power mosfet of this driver can draw 71 amp with heatsink

the power consumption of the mosfet at 9 amp its only :0.1v (v drain-source) x 9 amp = 0.9w

this mosfet its very big:
power mosfet transistor t70n03














q1: power mosfet t70n03( 71 amp max)
ic1: microcontroler 12f629 http://talkingelectronics.com/projec...12F629-P1.html
d2: protection led
d1: protection ic1

with this 5 mode driver current draw in high mode its only 7.5-8.2 amp because v drain-source its 0.1v (-0.1v with the driver)








7.5-8.2 amp with the aw18650 imr at 4.2v full chargued







I tested too it direct drived bypassing the mosfet




direct dived more than 10 amp with the aw 18650 imr full chargued (4.2v)


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## kz1000s1

Are your amperage readings different if you use the wires and probes that came with your meter instead of the thick wires you are using?


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## Linger

moviles said:


> finished too my ssr-50 flashlight its direct drived , current draw arround 5 amp the spot its really nice .



Thanx for the reply, sorry I meant the ssr-50. You said you direct drive the -50, can you please say what cell you're using, etc.


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## moviles

kz1000s1 said:


> Are your amperage readings different if you use the wires and probes that came with your meter instead of the thick wires you are using?


yes. only 1-3 amp in high with the standard wires( ssr-90)


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## wquiles

Man, that is a lot of current - nice build :wave:

Will


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## dan1million

Nice job man well done to get this thing going in such a small size.

Thankyou for the pic chip link also

-Dan


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## Al Combs

moviles said:


> I use a 5 mode driver from my mte sf-15 (the mte sf-22 has the same driver)
> 
> the power mosfet of this driver can draw 71 amp with heatsink
> 
> the power consumption of the mosfet at 9 amp its only :0.1v (v drain-source) x 9 amp = 0.9w
> 
> this mosfet its very big:
> power mosfet transistor t70n03
> 
> 
> q1: power mosfet t70n03( 71 amp max)
> ic1: microcontroler 12f629 http://talkingelectronics.com/projec...12F629-P1.html
> d2: protection led
> d1: protection ic1
> 
> with this 5 mode driver current draw in high mode its only 7.5-8.2 amp because v drain-source its 0.1v (-0.1v with the driver)
> 
> 
> 7.5-8.2 amp with the aw18650 imr at 4.2v full chargued
> 
> 
> I tested too it direct drived bypassing the mosfet
> 
> direct dived more than 10 amp with the aw 18650 imr full chargued (4.2v)



I wonder if I could ask a few questions about your driver mod? You upgraded the MOSFET to take the greater power requirements of the SST-90. Was that the only component that needed changing? I'm guessing that means you had to change the programming of the pic controller for the SST-90 to draw more current. Could you give some details on what was changed in the code?


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## AlexGT

Better yet, do you have a spare driver to sell?? Let me know.

Thanks!
AlexGT


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## toby_pra

Very nice mod...how about some outdoorbeamshots?


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## moviles

Al Combs said:


> I wonder if I could ask a few questions about your driver mod? You upgraded the MOSFET to take the greater power requirements of the SST-90. Was that the only component that needed changing? I'm guessing that means you had to change the programming of the pic controller for the SST-90 to draw more current. Could you give some details on what was changed in the code?





AlexGT said:


> Better yet, do you have a spare driver to sell?? Let me know.
> 
> Thanks!
> AlexGT



I have only analyzed the circuit of the mte sf-15 I have not modified it

the mte sf-22 have the same circuit

change the programming of the pic controller for the SST-90 to draw more current its not necesary. at 4.2v(battery full chargued) with ssc p7 current draw its arround 3.5-3.9 amp and with sst-90 current draw its 7.5-8.2 amp

this mod is very very cheap and easy , in mid is very brilliant and efficient . and in high are really really powerful

options if you want make it:
with my 5 modes driver with power mosfet:
*http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.22567*  ( its 5 modes not 4)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.22574 (not good build quality, the sf-15 its better)
is not a boost driver (only more than 8 amp the first minutes)


or if you want 10 amp this model its direct drived in high mode:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15739
but in mid mode have a resistor (dont have driver) low efficiency


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## moviles

linger said:


> Thanx for the reply, sorry I meant the ssr-50. You said you direct drive the -50, can you please say what cell you're using, etc.



my SSR-50 flashlight its direct drived with aw 18650 imr current draw its 5.3 amp with the battery at 4.2v (full chargued).....the spot its really nice also with small reflector .but its only a little little little bit more powerfull than ssc p7 bin D @ 4.65 amp


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## moviles

dan1million said:


> Nice job man well done to get this thing going in such a small size.
> 
> Thankyou for the pic chip link also
> 
> -Dan



I love the size of my new SST-90 flashlight is equal of powerful in luxes in a closed room than my 24w HID and more powerfull than 2 p7 flashlights, and really small compared with the hid 24w













with lights of the room on:




and HID after 2 minutes runtime(at 100%)


but HID its more thrower(the reflector of my sst-90 flashlight its small compared with the reflector of the hid 24w)


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## AlexGT

So Moviles, you have the SF-15 driver plain stock as it comes from DX and you only used thicker wires to the SST-90 led? Right?

AlexGT


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## Al Combs

moviles said:


> change the programming of the pic controller for the SST-90 to draw more current its not necesary. at 4.2v(battery full chargued) with ssc p7 current draw its arround 3.5-3.9 amp and with sst-90 current draw its 7.5-8.2 amp



Thank you for the additional info. I didn't realize you hadn't changed the MOSFET on the regulator. I incorrectly assumed from the link on the pic controller and the MOSFET specs you were basically saying, "this is the road if you care to go down it." My mistake.

So if I'm understanding this correctly now, it's not a regulator at all. It's a pwm dimmer like TaskLED's popular D2Flex. Essentially a direct drive circuit at full power minus whatever minimal voltage drop there is from the MOSFET's internal resistance or RDS(on) value of 6.6 m-ohm. I already have a couple of AW's IMR 18650's. I'll have to get an SF-15 and an SSR-90 to do a little experimenting.:devil:


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## Mjolnir

You should definitely try this LED in a light that has halfway decent heatsinking potential, such as a D maglite, where you can put the LED on a large Aluminum Heatsink (and maybe use a maglite with finned heads. 

Or, you could get a 6D maglite and use one IMR 26650, and fill the rest of it with ice. However, there could be some issues with shorts...

What is the Vf of the LED? I thought these larger high output LEDs tended to need 20+ volts, since they were never intended for portable lighting sources.


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## moviles

Al Combs said:


> Thank you for the additional info. I didn't realize you hadn't changed the MOSFET on the regulator. I incorrectly assumed from the link on the pic controller and the MOSFET specs you were basically saying, "this is the road if you care to go down it." My mistake.
> 
> So if I'm understanding this correctly now, it's not a regulator at all. It's a pwm dimmer like TaskLED's popular D2Flex. Essentially a direct drive circuit at full power minus whatever minimal voltage drop there is from the MOSFET's internal resistance or RDS(on) value of 6.6 m-ohm. I already have a couple of AW's IMR 18650's. I'll have to get an SF-15 and an SSR-90 to do a little experimenting.:devil:





AlexGT said:


> So Moviles, you have the SF-15 driver plain stock as it comes from DX and you only used thicker wires to the SST-90 led? Right?
> 
> AlexGT



step one remove the p7star , put the ssr-90 star and substitute the wires by copper wires









*step two repair the springs* we need very very low resistence and the springs have high resistence:
springs resistence +internal battery resistence+ swich resistence + mosfet internal resistence+wires resistence + body resistence+ contacts resistence must be < 4.2-3.6v(vled)/9 amp= 0.066 ohm
the total resitence must be < 66 mohm if we want 9 amp





















step three feels the power


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## moviles

Mjolnir said:


> You should definitely try this LED in a light that has halfway decent heatsinking potential, such as a D maglite, where you can put the LED on a large Aluminum Heatsink (and maybe use a maglite with finned heads.
> 
> Or, you could get a 6D maglite and use one IMR 26650, and fill the rest of it with ice. However, there could be some issues with shorts...
> 
> What is the Vf of the LED? I thought these larger high output LEDs tended to need 20+ volts, since they were never intended for portable lighting sources.



this mod is only to obtain the max luminous power in pocket size when I want, and in mid mode its very brilliant and efficient, around 400 lumens in mid mode:thumbsup:

I am going to also buy another ssr-90 for make a large flashlight

v led at 8-8.2 amp is around 3.56v with battery full charged


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## Nitroz

That's a horrible heat sink for a P7 and even worse for the SST-90 at full power.


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## moviles

Nitroz said:


> That's a horrible heat sink for a P7 and even worse for the SST-90 at full power.



The only way to discover the limits of the possible is to go beyond them into the impossible

for this mod I want the max luminous power in pocket size

I really love to listen to the people to say what the f*** its that when I turn on the high mode


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## Nitroz

moviles said:


> The only way to discover the limits of the possible is to go beyond them into the impossible



Believe me I have done plenty of that.


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## lolzertank

moviles said:


> The only way to discover the limits of the possible is to go beyond them into the impossible
> 
> for this mod I want the max luminous power in pocket size
> 
> I really love to listen to the people to say what the f*** its that when I turn on the high mode



Output drops significantly at high junction temperatures. I doubt you're getting more than 1000 lumens OTF. Anyone have a extra integrating sphere?


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## Nitroz

lolzertank said:


> Output drops significantly at high junction temperatures. I doubt you're getting more than 1000 lumens OTF. Anyone have a extra integrating sphere?



Yeah, it's a waste of energy. Mrgman could test it.


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## moviles

lolzertank said:


> Output drops significantly at high junction temperatures. I doubt you're getting more than 1000 lumens OTF. Anyone have a extra integrating sphere?



according to my measurements with luxometer in a closed room I obtain 1350-1400 true lumens.

they are not 2250 lumens but its ok for me for this size

in high mode is equal of powerful than my hid 24w(1400 true lumens) and more powerful than 2 flashlights p7 bin D together (1 p7 bin D flashlight @ 4amp =600-700 true lumens)

in mid mode I obtain 350-400 lumens with really high efficiency


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## ma_sha1

moviles, is it possible to get this or similar 10 Amp pwm chip without buying sf-15 flashlight?


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## moviles

ma_sha1 said:


> moviles, is it possible to get this or similar 10 Amp pwm chip without buying sf-15 flashlight?



I never have seen a power mosfet transistor as large as this in another driver of flashlight

you can buy a large power mosfet chanel N 70amp for 1$ and to control it with another low-power driver pwm


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## ma_sha1

I might try that, do you know which drivers on Dx or Kai are pwm ?


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## lolzertank

moviles said:


> according to my measurements with luxometer in a closed room I obtain 1350-1400 true lumens.
> 
> they are not 2250 lumens but its ok for me for this size
> 
> in high mode is equal of powerful than my hid 24w(1400 true lumens) and more powerful than 2 flashlights p7 bin D together (1 p7 bin D flashlight @ 4amp =600-700 true lumens)
> 
> in mid mode I obtain 350-400 lumens with really high efficiency



What is your reference light? None of the lights in your sig qualify for being a reference. They're all horribly overdriven (by the way, you'll probably get more light out of that RC-G2 if you lower the drive current to about 1A...) and have the same problems as this light. I believe you said you own a Jetbeam, but super throwers tend to not so good for ceiling bounce/lightbox measurements. Either way, lightbox/ceiling bounce is really not that accurate in the first place. 



ma_sha1 said:


> I might try that, do you know which drivers on Dx or Kai are pwm ?



The AMC7135 multimode drivers are PWM. Just desolder the 7135 chips and toss in an $6, slightly overkill, 240A, logic level MOSFET http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=IRLS3034TRL7PPCT-ND

At 10A, you'll only be dissipating 140mW of heat!


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## moviles

lolzertank said:


> What is your reference light?



the 1400 lumens tactical hid 24W the jetbeam jet 1 pro v2 and some others


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## moviles

its very hard to obtain more of 8,6 amp with the driver,i need to reduce the total resistance to obtain 9 amps, yesterday improving all the points of electric contact but only obtain 8,6 amps:hairpull:

I am thinking for my next sst-90 flashlight about put it direct drived with two ways(hi ,mid ,off) with resistance in low mode, direct drived obtain easily 10,5 amps and many more lux than with the circuit (I have also taken it lux measurements direct drived) .the efficiency will be smaller in mid mode but I prefer this way and obtain more than 9 amp

obtain the max luminous power in the smallest size its the only thing matters for me for this mods flaslights


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## overdog

Hello Moviles,
I am newbie in this forum, best respects for your work- flashlight as small as it can be- and max lumens! Ordered yesterday on Dx the MTE, ordered 3 days ago SST-90 with & without star from german dealer on stock(!) to rebuild your ideas- and in my opinion all the bad posts according to your work are the same as those, who will never accept, that a SSC P7 will never be driven under full power in a 12,00 cm host without a heatsink, cooled by something like the ice age or anything else like armageddon, ... poooof... . By the way i am building a 5x SSC P7 in an Ultrafire wf-500 host, direkt driven by 5x 18650, sunday i´ll push the button- if i am still alive, i´ll post a picture...
Moviles- thanks for your ideas and best regards from germany,
Steffen


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## moviles

overdog said:


> ordered 3 days ago SST-90 with & without star from german dealer on stock(!) .
> 
> Moviles- thanks for your ideas and best regards from germany,
> Steffen



what dealer? you can buy only one ssr-90? bin? how much euros the ssr-90 and sent cost?? im in europe too


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## overdog

Hello, I got this adress to order from someone from Avnet in Germany: 
http://www.amu-electronics.com/9.html
I ordered only one single SSR-90-W65S-R11-GK100 and SST-90-W65S-R11-GK100, I ordered wednesday and hope ill receive them on monday- price you have to request, cause he offered me a special for both, but expect something under 30,00€/ per piece.


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## csshih

Sorry if this post is negative, but I still think this is a bad idea.


Al Combs said:


> I saw another post of yours where everyone kept telling you you can't beat physics, blah, blah, blah. It's a good thing you didn't listen. Very nice project.


I seriously doubt he's getting very good performance at all, and the other thread was mostly about safety regarding drawing 3+ amps from a LiCoO2 14500 cell. as I said, lucky he's using a IMR in this mod.


moviles said:


> according to my measurements with luxometer in a closed room I obtain 1350-1400 true lumens.


...how are you getting lumens from a luxmeter?


Nitroz said:


> That's a horrible heat sink for a P7 and even worse for the SST-90 at full power.


+1....


moviles said:


> The only way to discover the limits of the possible is to go beyond them into the impossible


safety is still a top priority... It isn't worth the risk of a exploding Li-ion cell just because you wanted the quick thrill of an uber bright light for a few seconds.


moviles said:


> for this mod I want the max luminous power in pocket size
> I really love to listen to the people to say what the f*** its that when I turn on the high mode


I agree with you here, though. :devil:. but, with the current public, it doesnt take too many lumens for someone to say that..


lolzertank said:


> Output drops significantly at high junction temperatures. I doubt you're getting more than 1000 lumens OTF.


Another +1.
movilles, can you do a runtime with your luxmeter? turn the light on and record lux values every 30seconds or so?


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## Oznog

Your transistor selection looks WAY off!

The cmt70n03 is a 1-3v threshold. You need significantly MORE voltage than the threshold to turn it on all the way, and turn it on quickly. Failure to do either will result in lots and lots of heat.

Your schematic shows a diode protecting the PIC, so even assuming it's a Schottky, that's 3.9v-2.2v Vgs. You need a FAR lower Vth than this! This is at high risk of current going into saturation region, which will probably let the magic smoke leak out.

Also the capacitance is a huge issue. The heat generated during switching will typically be much greater than that generated due to I^2*Rds-on heating. 

In fact, bigger current ratings typically mean proportionally higher capacitance (given similar construction), and thus the part actually can handle LESS current during switching with a modest gate drive like a PIC than one with a lower rating.

Another thing, the current ratings across different packages is funny. See the rating is based on how much heat it'll take to damage the junction. Bigger packages get higher ratings not because they've got lower resistance, but because of greater dissipation. Consequently, they're often higher rds-on and less efficient than the same current rating in a much smaller package.

Another significant factor, the ripple rating of the input cap. Tantalums typically have "high" ripple current rating for their size, but in these tiny caps it's still pretty small. I've had tantalums several times larger than these in flashlight drivers that can only handle like 200mA PWM'ed off a lithium cell before overheating. I found better ones which can handle more, but the tech's pushing it. Ceramic MLCC typically has MUCH lower ESR, and there are some darn high capacitance ones in tiny packages now.


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## mellowman

What kind of run times and lumen output do you get in medium mode? How hot does it get in this mode?

How did you mod the springs? Can't tell what those are from the pics.

Also, what gauge of copper wires?

thxs. sweet mod btw.


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## Der Wichtel

How do you measure the current through the LED?

With a Clampmeter or an usual Dmm?


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## moviles

mellowman said:


> What kind of run times and lumen output do you get in medium mode? How hot does it get in this mode?
> 
> How did you mod the springs? Can't tell what those are from the pics.
> 
> Also, what gauge of copper wires?
> 
> thxs. sweet mod btw.



in mid mode around 2-2.5hours, around 350 lumens with battery at 4.23v,the max temperature its only around 38 C (mid mode)... but now I maked it direct drived and have only the high mode because no way to get more than 8.6 amp with circuit(its necessary a really very very very low resistance)

the springs: its necessary repair the sprigs because springs have high resistance and I need very very high pressure on the electric contacts to obtain great current and output

great area of contact is necessary too for dont destroy the bottom of the battery with the high pressure necessary


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## moviles

Oznog said:


> The cmt70n03 is a 1-3v threshold. You need significantly MORE voltage than the threshold to turn it on all the way



ok,its all true :thumbsup:
but no room into the drop-in for boost circuit for the pic , since 1 week I have it direct drive because its really hard get high currents with the aw18650 imr and only 4.23v

Iwill make it with 3 modes switch high (dd) mid (resistor) and off


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## FlashKat

Where are the outdoor comparison pictures? 50 ft, 100 ft, 150 ft.


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## moviles

since around 2 weeks I have it with SKU 15739 switch ,2 mode high direct drived and low with resistor

10 amp in high mode and more output




left mte sf15 with ssr-90 right aurora SKU 15739 with tiablo collimator and ez900

I want buy more SSR-90 for make more custom flashlights but no way to buy, no stock everywhere

I prefer the high bin *SSR-90-W65S-R11-GN100* but the cheap *SSR-90-W65S-R11-GK100* low bin its ok too
*
edit*:the best its the *GN102*

*



*


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## mohdsharir

moviles said:


> I love the size of my new SST-90 flashlight is equal of powerful in luxes in a closed room than my 24w HID and more powerfull than 2 p7 flashlights, and really small compared with the hid 24w
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with lights of the room on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and HID after 2 minutes runtime(at 100%)
> 
> 
> but HID its more thrower(the reflector of my sst-90 flashlight its small compared with the reflector of the hid 24w)



:wave::candle:
Dear MOVILE or anyone,
seems that all of you are really good at this mod flashlight..however may i ask...
Can you mod a flashlight, using sst 90 that can give a +-100% throw more than 2 hours ?...and if you can...can you email me at [email protected] the price that you wanna quote for it...including shipping/ batteries/ charger to Malaysia..thanks


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## stinky

mohdsharir said:


> :wave::candle:
> Dear MOVILE or anyone,
> seems that all of you are really good at this mod flashlight..however may i ask...
> Can you mod a flashlight, using sst 90 that can give a +-100% throw more than 2 hours ?...and if you can...can you email me at [email protected] the price that you wanna quote for it...including shipping/ batteries/ charger to Malaysia..thanks




you may want this, if you can talk wayne into making another one for you:

Blaster, the Next Generation: Luminus Phlatlight SSR-90, 1,750 lumens, 13,000 lux


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## moviles

sorry man, I dont sell flashlights.

and all my flashlights have very low runtime 

maybe the K90 intimidator its good option for you

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=198402


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## baterija

csshih said:


> movilles, can you do a runtime with your luxmeter? turn the light on and record lux values every 30seconds or so?



That would be VERY interesting to see how well the small light handles the thermal issues. Even if it was just a manual reading of the meter every 30seconds for a couple minutes.


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## JLumens

very cool , it inspierd me to make a sst 50 with a aw battery a 1865 . here.s a vid on it. trying for brighter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxLgE6-GSiI


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## moviles

some updates:

I have two of this flashlights since 6 months

I have one with 50mm aspherical lens and the other with 42mm aspherical lens from kaidomain


day:













iso 800 0.8 sec















with one of these I got more than 9 amp the first seconds with the battery fullchargued at 4.23v , I think this sst-90 have very low vf . with the other SST-90 no way to get more than 7.5 amp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZ1mLxN6aFA

vs the c78:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8j2pc9eIQM

vs car lights and vs street lights recorded with cheap camera:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BFoSACR3oA

now Im looking for some 1x26650 host for get some more runtime


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## okarina

:rock::goodjob:

The videos are great!

How the AW18650 handle this hight current? Doesn't the lifetime will be too short or simply once it will dead on next time you wanna use the light 
I wanna build a light similar to that soon, but I'm affraid of that high current :thinking:


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## Noctis

moviles said:


> now Im looking for some 1x26650 host for get some more runtime


FiveMega sells those, but before spending money on that, you'd have to find a switch that can handle the current.

My McClicky switch got fried when I tried doing this in my Surefire 6P host.

Frankly I'm a little shocked that the switch in your DX lights didn't already burn out from this.

Who would've thought that a Made in China clicky switch would be more durable than a custom switch?


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## moviles

okarina said:


> :rock::goodjob:
> 
> The videos are great!
> 
> How the AW18650 handle this hight current? Doesn't the lifetime will be too short or simply once it will dead on next time you wanna use the light
> I wanna build a light similar to that soon, but I'm affraid of that high current :thinking:



the aw18650 can handle 16 amp max

If you dont want high current dont fix the resistance of the spring and the current draw will be limited with that resistance


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## moviles

Noctis said:


> FiveMega sells those,
> 
> *I dont want p60, the sst-90 need good heat transmission to the host*
> 
> but before spending money on that, you'd have to find a switch that can handle the current.
> 
> My McClicky switch got fried when I tried doing this in my Surefire 6P host.
> 
> Frankly I'm a little shocked that the switch in your DX lights didn't already burn out from this.
> 
> *this switch survive too after a shortcircuit
> 
> I maked accidentally shotcircuit maybe more than 20 amp and this wire :*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *got burned but the switch still working :twothumbs*
> 
> Who would've thought that a Made in China clicky switch would be more durable than a custom switch?
> 
> *I have burned two chinese romisen rc-g2 switches with only 3 amp *


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## Noctis

I refuse to believe that the lack of threads connecting the pill to the host can't be compensated with the good old copper tape + AS5 combo. At a little less than 7 amps, I can already feel the heat after about 10 seconds. The light gets too hot to hold after about 30 seconds.

I don't think heat transfer is the problem. It's just that there isn't enough solid metal to absorb the heat. The head gets hot, but it gets hot so fast that the middle of the light is only slightly warm.

Since the emitter is usually mounted on a hollow pill rather than a solid chunk of metal, there isn't enough time for heat to move to the rest of the body until it gets too hot to keep on.

My switch survived less than 7 amps, but the spring still warps.


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## lieber Scholli

Hello moviles, i like your mte sf-15 mod very much and i want to do the same.
I ordered one sf-15 and imr18650, waiting for arrival.

I appreciate that the heatsink respectively the body of the torch isn't able to absorb so much heat for more than seconds, anyway, i want this bright led in this small torch, even i can run it on high mode only for a few seconds preventing anything to melt. Like a dragster, not build to go on holidays pulling a caravan.

So I have some questions because i am a noob:
Is there any danger driving this high current with an imr18650 (for example melting wires, clicky, exploding cell)?
Does it make sense to drill some holes in the body to defuse this pipe bomb?
Do i have to glue the star with thermal adhesive on the heatsink, or screwing on is enough?
Generally, would it be possible to drill a hole through the body into the heatsink in any torch without a short, to attach an external heatpipe for example like this (only the copper pipe):





Where do i find a inexpensive ssr-90, 4sevens only sell ssts?

i´m sorry for my bad english, had some f at school:mecry:

Thank you for your answers in advance...


lieber Scholli


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## aurum

> Is there any danger driving this high current with an imr18650 - > exploding cell



no



> melting wires, clicky


the clicky won't survive .... killed mine few month ago



> Does it make sense to drill some holes in the body to defuse this pipe bomb?


no .. AWs imr 18650 are fine



> Do i have to glue the star with thermal adhesive on the heatsink


yes ...



> or screwing on is enough?


hmm ... i don't think so



> Generally, would it be possible to drill a hole through the body into the heatsink in any torch without a short, to attach an external heatpipe for example like this (only the copper pipe):






I've never seen something similar ^^


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## Walterk

moviles said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZ1mLxN6aFA
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8j2pc9eIQM
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BFoSACR3oA



I have seen them months ago, glad to finally know what it was made of .

NB SST90 and XRE can be found at led-tech.de. But their drivers zuigen (<-aint good at all).


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## js-lots

avnet sells them on stars and they ship them like they are shipping rare art. Lots of packaging. They are quick as well and have every bin I believe.


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## moviles

the size of the flashlight are nice but with the 18650 imr I only can get more than 9 amp the first seconds with the battery fullcharged 

I prefer the 26650 imr batteries (better current draw the first minutes) but the size of the flashlight its maybe too big for the pocket.
and im not sure if this batteries are really true safe imr batteries like the aw imr batteries

small cheap hosts for 26650 size comparation:












http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ICdx1b1Jds&feature=player_embedded

torchlite shooter for 26650
uf c88 for 26500 and maybe with mod for 26650 too


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## Noctis

I thought IMR 26650 cells had serious problems pushing more than 5 Amps because of the low discharge rate?


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## aurum

@moviles

Where did you buy the Shooter host?

thanks


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## D-LUX

Thanks for posting the videos, that's a serious flashlight. I think its cool how there is a clean square hotspot.


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## moviles

aurum said:


> @moviles
> 
> Where did you buy the Shooter host?
> 
> thanks


I have buy the host here

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=226436

45$ host +10$ ship to europe= 55$

you can also buy it with the sst-90 for 200$ +33.05$ ship to europe here:
http://www.lighthound.com/MKN-SST-90-MOD-Flashlight--one-26650-Battery-SST-90-LED_p_3479.html

I want buy the big head for get more throw power but no way to find where to buy it (only the big head with the reflector)


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## tui

Hi Moviles,

I had a MTE SF-15 as yours at post #1. But the driver has problem, it always stucked on one mode (could be medium with current ~ 0.2A). I think the IC has problem while the mosfet (T70N03) still work.

After reading your post, I'd like to do the same mod. Is it possible to use another driver (for example 16 modes 1000mA http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7612) and wire to the mosfet to get the maximum current draw?
Currently, it's hard to find a 'small' driver for SST-90 to put into MTE SF15 head.

How do you think about that?


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## MikeAusC

*Transplanting Mode-control chips*

I really like the Mode Control Chip in the DX7612 - it has plenty of useful modes - Low - Mid - High - 16Hz Strobe - 16Hz strobe (0.5 sec off) - 4 sec interval (0.25 sec on) - 1 sec interval (0.25 sec on) - 12 sec interval (0.25 sec on) - SOS (4 sec pause).
 
It uses the ATtiny13 so you're limited to a maximum of 5 volts on this chip.
 
If you wanted to transplant it into another Driver Board there's a problem - every other Driver board from DX seems to use the 12F629 and is limited to 5 modes. I haven't checked how the pinout for the 12F629 differs from the ATtiny13.


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## King_Arthur

hi moviles,

how do you fit the tiablo collimator head on the sf15 ??


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