# MillerMod Arc AAA 2-Level Head



## Codeman (Aug 24, 2006)

*MillerMod Arc AAA 2-Level Heads (Lux III TXOH and Cree Q4 WH)*

_NOTE: Due to a mistake I made on my PP order, the photos posted earlier actually depicted the 30mA/1.0W head. Now that I have the 30mA/1.5W head, I've updated this post with new pictures. Thanks for the fix, MillerMod!_

Considering the build, size, output, and price, the Arc AAA Premium is a great light. Ever since I got a couple of them last year, it's been one of my favorite lights around the house. But I've got a streak of Tim Allen "More Power" disease, so I couldn't resist the 1.5W with the parabolic, polished reflector. Throw in 2 levels, and the well-spent money left my wallet before I knew what hit me.

Almost from the moment I opened the package, I knew I'd have to do a review of this marvelous mod.

This MillerMod is a 30mA low, 1.5W high TXOH, built on an original Arc head with a polished, parabolic reflector.

These are very rough images that I took in my office under normal lighting. Not exactly ideal conditions, but what the heck. Exposure was locked on the ArcP/MM/High, at the spot, so they are a bit underexposed. Overall, they are much brighter in real life in a dark environment, but the relative brightness between the pictures is reasonably accurate, as is the color.

I've put the Arc Premium's stock head on one of the older Arc black AAA bodies (on right):





The old-style Arc head that MillerMod used as a host is a near perfect color match for the new Arc AAA body. The body is slightly grayer, or less green, but you really have to look closely, in person, to see it. It isn't visible in this photo. This has nothing to do with MillerMod's work, though, so let's move on to the real pictures.

The stock Arc has a brand new Duracell Ultra cell in it, while the MM has a Duracell 1000mAh cell in it.

Arc AAA Premium Stock Head




For a single level task light, I really like the output of the premium stock head.

For a 2-level task light, though, I wanted a bit less output on low.

Arc AAA MillerMod 30mA/1.5W TXOH on Low




There is a useful corona on the low setting, but it's just barely visible due to the exposure being locked on the high setting photo below. With fully-adapted night vision, the low setting is plenty of light to see things out to a distance of 20-30 feet.

Arc AAA MillerMod 30mA/1.5W TXOH on High (exposure locked on this shot)




Yeah, baby - Arc AAA on steriods!

Arc AAA MillerMod 30mA/1.5W TXOH on Low next to Arc AAA Premium Stock Head




Just like I prefer for a 2-level light, the MM on low is a bit dimmer than the stock Arc, but it is pure white light.

Arc AAA MillerMod 30mA/1.5W TXOH on High next to Arc AAA Premium Stock Head




This photo is a bit deceptive, thanks to my camera's limited dynamic range and the daytime shooting at a short distance. When seen by the human eye in real use, the drastic difference is much more visible.

MillerMod Polished Parabolic Reflector vs Arc Premium Stock Reflector





I included this last image to show just how perfectly centered the LED is in relation to the reflector. MillerMod did a spectacular job of achieving focus! The stock preimium head, even when view directly overhead, doesn't show any yellow in the reflector, though the LED is well-centered. Since the spot relies on the light coming directly out of the LED, I don't think the relationship between the LED and the reflector is as important for the stock head. The parabolic, polished reflector cut into an original Arc head, though, really helps to achive a nice spot from the Lux III.

I'll be adding more beamshots (white wall, real use, comparisons, etc), runtime graphs, lux readings, subjective thoughts, etc. Until I get the rest completed, please keep on thing in mind - the MM is much brighter in real life than these pictures show. The runtime graphs, once completed, should show this more objectively. I'll also be posting comparison shots with some other lights to help everyone get a better feel for the MM 1.5W's output.

For now, I'll just say that out of all of the lights I've bought over the past couple of years, MillerMod's work ranks at the very top in quality. A great light like the Arc AAA Premium can only be improved by equally great work. MillerMod has accomplished that.

*Update #1*

Last night, I ran the MM on high for a full run. We'll have to wait for the runtime graph for an objective evaluation, but I will say that with the Duracell 1000mAh NiMH AAA, there was a lot of light for 20 minutes, after which I switched to the low setting and it continued to run for quite a while. I was able to hold the body for the full run, but it did reach 120-125°F. The head reached 145°F and the surface of the reflector got all the way up to 190°F. Obviously, MillerMod's heat sinking works well! Over time, a lot of long runs will eventually take a toll on the Luxeon, but that's to be expected of a hotrod AAA. Most of my use will likely be on the low setting, but having the 1.5W setting available with good runtime, makes it a perfect EDC light.

*Update #2 - 25/1.25 Cree Q4 WH*

Now that I have my new MillerMod, it's time to add a few new shots.

First up is a side by side of the business end of my 2 MM's, a 30/1.5 LuxIII TXOH on the left, and the 25/1.5 Q4 WH on the right. (I used a Sundrop-3S as the sole illumination source for this shot):






I love how the LuxIII's older style Arc head has that huge parabolic surface. But it's really no match when it comes to output.

Here are the 3 lights I'm using - a stock Arc-P (CS UB2), the LuxIII, and the Cree:






Although the photo doesn't show it, the die is perfectly focused in both of the MM's.

In the following shots, no efforts was made to achieve correct white balance, nor was exposure locked across the photos. Exposure was set to illustrate various aspects of the beam.

This next shot shows the beams (low on the MM's) at an exposure level that allows the variations in each beam to be seem. At this close distance, though, I hasten to add that the Cree's beam is not fully formed, so it appears to be slightly larger than the LuxIII. At normal distances, it is slightly smaller and has better definition. I couldn't get the darn camera to focus.






The next shot does a good job of showing the relative brightness of the 3 lights:






This shot does a great job of showing just how well the low level of my MM's replicates the output of the Arc-P, without the angry blue tint.






Finally, here's the Cree, in all it's glory:






Except for the first shot of update #2, all were taken in daylight conditions in my office on a sunny day - probably the worst conditions to take such shots in. I had to stop the camera down 3 or 4 f-stops to tame the Cree's output, which explains why that last shot appears to be taken in darkness.

To really do justice to MillerMod's Cree, some outdoor shots under more controlled conditions need to be made. Suffice it to say that the tint is a very nice, warm white tint, and the light has no problem fully illuminating objects at 40-60 feet.

In the meantime, here are some calc'd lumen values for these lights

Arc-P (CS/UB2) - 5 lumens
Arc/MMLuxIII (TXOH), 30mA low - 6 lumens
Arc/MMLuxIII (TXOH), 1.5W high - 34 lumens
Arc/MMCree (Q4 WH), 25mA low - 7 lumens
Arc/MMCree (Q4 WH), 1.5W high - 84 lumens

For details on how these values where determined, please see

Quickbeam's Lightbox
Lumens from lightbox readings???
Light Meter Benchmark Testing – CPF style

When I need a small light that also can provide a serious blast when needed, the MM Cree is my new go to light. Great job, MillerMod! :twothumbs

*Update #3 - Valiant Concepts Arc AA Body*

I bought one of these great bodies when JSBurly first had them. They're a great way to add runtime to an Arc AAA light. So, naturally, I wanted to mate it up with my MM's.

After pulling the spring out of the AA Body's endcap, I put a stack of 3mm diameter rare earth magnets totalling a height of 13mm on the negative end of a Duracell 2650 NiMH AA battery. The tailcap sealed just fine, but there was a slight gap with the o-ring peaking through. That works...but...since the foam donut's inner cutout isn't big enough for a AA positive nib to fit inside the center cutout, the head has to be really torqued to get the high level. That has the ugly side effect of over-compressing the inner portion of the foam donut, which then lead to faulty operation. At first, it worked fine. Then, as the compression set it, I lost the high level. When I put it back on the stock body, it would go low/off/high instead of low/high. I can't really explain why this happened. I just know that it's a function of the foam donut being over compressed by the AA's larger diameter positive nib.

I took a dental pick and gently pulled the foam back up. Everything works fine now with the stock tube, so I'm leaving well enough alone. I'd love to use this body with my MM's, but I'm not going to risk damage to MillerMod's work by overcompressing it. I suspect that, if the center cutout could be safely enlarged to accomodate a AA's + nib, using magnets in the tailcap would be a viable solution. I just don't know if enlarging it is safe to do.


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## skalomax (Aug 24, 2006)

Looks awesome!! and very Bright. Are your Runtimes on High More than 1 hr? Why does the head look bigger?


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## Geologist (Aug 24, 2006)

I think the head looks bigger because the newer ARC-P have a beveled head - the older ARCs were straight...


Great review Codey!!!


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## greenLED (Aug 24, 2006)

:kewlpics: I'm hooked.


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## jch79 (Aug 24, 2006)




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## Spordin (Aug 24, 2006)

Price and relative runtime info?


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## Virgo (Aug 24, 2006)

Spordin said:


> Price and relative runtime info?


 

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/111724&page=1 

I just received a two stage, and have a single stage on the way. Eric has taken a near perfect product, and fine tuned it to what is IMO the best EDC available. I've been running the two stage in a big bowl of water with no problems. 
Worth every penny.


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## Codeman (Aug 24, 2006)

skalomax said:


> Looks awesome!! and very Bright. Are your Runtimes on High More than 1 hr? Why does the head look bigger?


Runtimes are probably going to be close to 20 minutes on high, but I'm using Duracell's 1000 mAh AAA cells, so it might go longer.



Geologist said:


> I think the head looks bigger because the newer ARC-P have a beveled head - the older ARCs were straight...
> 
> Great review Codey!!!


That's part of it, but the parabolic cut also goes closer to the outside edge than the stock reflector. Add in the great polishing, and it really does look bigger. Plus, the older head allowed a deeper reflector, which is why MillerMod only offers the parabolic on an old-style head. The overall dimensions are the same.

I did just notice that the top of the Luxeon is deeper in the MM than the LED in the Stock reflector. I think that's due completely to the Luxeon having a lower dome than the stock LED. The stock LED appears to be taller as far as the dome over the emitter, but the emitter seems to be lower in relation to the bottom edge of the reflector.

Also, the reflector, based on awr's post in the sale thread, has a double coating of nickel that MillerMod applied himself. That ought to hold up pretty well. I was concerned about damaging the great finish of the reflective surface, until I saw Andrew's post.

Thanks, Geo, but I'm just getting started on the review! Be sure to check back this weekend.



greenLED said:


> :kewlpics: I'm hooked.



I thought you might, once you saw it! I tend to notice all the good attributes of a new light first, so I was a bit cautious yesterday about saying much over on EDCF. I've been using/playing with it since it arrived, though. There wasn't a need to be cautious. These are the real deal!

There is really only one thing that isn't nearly perfect, but I suspect it's a trade-off for getting the parabolic cut. In order for the head to be turned far enough that a bump to the front of the light won't cause it to flash, you have to turn the head to the point where the forward-facing edge of the o-ring is slightly exposed. It doesn't hurt the waterproof-ness at all. The contact point of the outer surface of the o-ring is still in contact fully with the body - it's just an esoteric thing.

So, how do you know how far to turn it so that it won't "bump flash"? I tend to hold the Arc with the head between my thumb and first finger. So, I simply pull back on the head slightly while turning it off. As soon as it goes off, it's turned far enough to be "bump flash" proof.

Oh, not only is my Tim Allen "More Power" affliction satisified by the output on high, but the Arc's head gets a little warm on longer runs! I haven't done a run longer than about 5 minutes yet, so I'll have to check what happens during a full run, but at 5 minutes it's barely luke-warm. An Arc AAA being warmed up by the LED is new ground for me!

Hey jch79, no need to drool. I'm sure MillerMod would be glad to build ya one of your own!


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## greenLED (Aug 24, 2006)

Here you go, Spordin:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/111724

You can also order from 4sevens, IIRC.


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## iowatollah (Aug 24, 2006)

I concur with Codeman and Virgo 100%. Eric has taken probably the greatest smallest EDC to yet a higher level of excellence. The high stage 1.5watt is BRIGHT. I am never without it and could not be happier. Thank you Eric.

Scott


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## Spordin (Aug 26, 2006)

2 questions, please:

1. If I chose the option for 3/4 watt on high and 25mA on low (in order to increase runtimes), would that in itself affect which Lux that I should choose (T-bin Lux III or R-bin Lux I)?

2. What's the difference between the T-bin Lux III and the R-bin Lux I? Would the choice of one or the other affect runtime or type of battery that could be used?

Thanks


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## bwm (Aug 26, 2006)

Spordin said:


> 2 questions, please:
> 
> 1. If I chose the option for 3/4 watt on high and 25mA on low (in order to increase runtimes), would that in itself affect which Lux that I should choose (T-bin Lux III or R-bin Lux I)?
> 
> ...



Millermods answers those questions in posts 72 and 75 of the below thread.

* 3/4W, 1W, or 1.5 watt ARC AAA using alkaline(3/4W only), NIMH or Prim. Lith AAA cells*

Brian


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## TENMMIKE (Aug 27, 2006)

eric's mod of the arc is awsome, i have the .75w version i cant say enough good things about it .if your thinking about it stop and just do it , youll be very glad you did


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## frisco (Aug 27, 2006)

Hmmmmm....... I have an ARC P that just may have to go under the MillerMods knife !!!

Think it's possible for Eric to step up the low range a little higher.... more like the Stocker and still get a couple hour (low) runtime on a Lithium?


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## Spordin (Aug 27, 2006)

Thanks for the input, very helpful. Making a great light even better sounds good to me. And two heads are better than one  I like the runtime achieved on low.


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## xaman (Sep 1, 2006)

Anyone have any idea how this light would compare to a Proton?

I know it's not apples to apples, but they do both look like nice little edc lights... Any suggestions / comparisons?


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## Codeman (Sep 27, 2006)

xaman, I don't have a Proton to compare it to, but I can say that, unless the Proton has a Luxeon LED or several Nichia-level LED's, it won't come close to a MillerMod 1.5W.

Sorry for the delay in the rest of the review. My head developed a de-coupled something-or-other. It started flickering a lot on low despite my attempts to alleviate all the usual culprits - dirty contacts, dirty threads, short cells. Eric has since made a change to eliminate this problem and is in the process of fixing mine.


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## coyote (Sep 27, 2006)

eric of millermods has just posted a new page for his custom Luxeon Arc AAA lights that answers some of the questions brought up here.

*Updated MillerMods 3/4, 1, or 1.5 watt Luxeon ARC AAA Mod Sales Thread*

here's a link to that page-
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=134812


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## Codeman (Sep 27, 2006)

Thanks for the link, coyote. Most of that info was in the old sales thread, but it was scattered across multiple posts. That's probably why MM started a new thread.


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## jch79 (Sep 27, 2006)

Darn you Codeman, stop bringing this thread up... it's way too tempting.


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## Codeman (Sep 27, 2006)

Resistance is futile. Given in to the MillerMod. Unlike the Borg (if you're a Star Trek fan), you won't be disappointed.


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## geepondy (Sep 27, 2006)

I think until Fenix comes out with a two stage LOP which I'm willing to bet they will sooner or later, this is the best keychain light you can buy.


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## MillerMods (Sep 28, 2006)

Codeman, do you have a well known flashlight with a comparable output that you could do a comparision shot with? No pressure, just if you have some time to spare. Thanks for all the cheers!


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## Codeman (Sep 28, 2006)

MillerMods said:


> Codeman, do you have a well known flashlight with a comparable output that you could do a comparision shot with? No pressure, just if you have some time to spare. Thanks for all the cheers!



I've got several possibilities in mind, but I need to wait until I've got the head back. Have you had a chance to look at it?


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## MillerMods (Sep 28, 2006)

It's on it's way. It was a bad ground causing the flicker on low. I'll be crimping them better for now on. BTW, you had ordered the 1 watt version, not the 1.5 watt version. I went by the PP detail for specs to build.


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## Codeman (Sep 29, 2006)

MillerMods said:


> It's on it's way. It was a bad ground causing the flicker on low. I'll be crimping them better for now on. BTW, you had ordered the 1 watt version, not the 1.5 watt version. I went by the PP detail for specs to build.



I'm glad you noticed my reference to 1.5W and commented about it, Eric. I wouldn't have known otherwise.

I hope that folks who order a MillerMod don't do what I did. I placed my PP with the wrong head specified. I followed the PP with a correcting email that day, but we all know how difficult things can get when a modder has to look in different places for what was ordered. So, I got a 1W instead of the 1.5W I actually wanted.

To his credit, Eric's correcting the head for me now. :goodjob: 

I'm really looking forward to seeing the 1.5W version!


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## xaman (Oct 2, 2006)

Still looking forward to those beamshots when you get a chance... Thanks!


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## bucken (Oct 2, 2006)

Millermods,
Does that flickering on LOW really cause any potential problems? Mine has always done that (almost like a fast strobe light) as kind of a "first stage". Just a little more turning of the head makes it go into LOW, and even more head turning puts it into HIGH. If it doesn't hurt anything, then I'd just as soon leave it the way it is. It gets used a lot, and seems very reliable in its operation.


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## MillerMods (Oct 3, 2006)

bucken said:


> Millermods,
> Does that flickering on LOW really cause any potential problems? Mine has always done that (almost like a fast strobe light) as kind of a "first stage". Just a little more turning of the head makes it go into LOW, and even more head turning puts it into HIGH. If it doesn't hurt anything, then I'd just as soon leave it the way it is. It gets used a lot, and seems very reliable in its operation.



It doesn't hurt anything. Whenever I have seen a flickering occur it's been caused from 1 of 2 things. Usually the battery contact or flashlight contact needs cleaned including the threads of the light, inside and out. A q-tip slightly damp with alcohol is usually all it takes. 
In the worst case such as what the problem Codeman had, the ground isn't crimped tight enough. In any case, it won't harm the driver, it just won't function as I had intended.


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## Virgo (Oct 3, 2006)

I just wanted to check in with my experiences with Eric's Arc Mods. I have a single stage 3/4 W with TWOH Lux III with polished/parabolic cut, and two-stage 1 W with TV1J Lux III with polish/no parabolic cut, and have run at least 10 batteries through the 1 W, and over 20 batteries through the 3/4 W with absolutely no problems. I've made some good purchases in the past, but these currently rank as potentially the best (even referred a friend who's currently waiting for a build). I bought a body off the Arc website to fit the 1 W head, and it fit perfectly. Soon as I can get some $ together, I'll be placing an order for the S-bin Lux I (likely in the 1.5 W version). Eric, thanks for the great mods!


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## bucken (Oct 3, 2006)

Glad to hear the strobing effect won't hurt anything. It really makes a neat signaling light.


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## Codeman (Oct 3, 2006)

The strobing that happens when you just turn the head enough to make contact is due to the tolerances of the Arc's threads and the sensitivity of MillerMod's 2-level head. This happens with most lights unless the thread tolerances are extremely tight. The flickering I had, though, occurred up until the point that the head was turned enough for the high level to kick in.

Thanks for quickly fixing the ground on mine, MillerMod! It's working beautifully now. :goodjob: 

I've updated the OP with replacement pics of the 1.5W head and added a few new pictures. I basically re-worked the entire post. Plus, I added some observations about running it on high for a full run.

I'll be adding more to the OP as I complete the review.


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## MillerMods (Oct 3, 2006)

1.5 watts is hard to acheive from the small inductor that I have to use. As a consequence the runtime suffers because efficiency drops as heat increases. The driver has to draw more current when it gets hot. So shorter runtimes will total out to give an even longer accumulative runtime.


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## Codeman (Nov 27, 2008)

Added to the first post:

*Update #2 - 25/1.25 Cree Q4 WH*
*Update #3 - Valiant Concepts Arc AA Body*


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## kaichu dento (Dec 27, 2008)

Great thread! I just got my first Arc AAA out of sheer curiosity and immediately fell in love with them. Don't know if I just lucked out or what, but both mine have very smooth, floody beams.

Can't wait to get one of these MM's!


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## kaichu dento (Dec 22, 2009)

These are such great lights, and with all the other options out there now, unfortunately overlooked. That's why I'm pasting this mini-review from another thread that I just wrote regarding the MillerMods I just received the other day.


kaichu dento said:


> You wanted variable brightness, but with no mention of how many levels I'm going to suggest a MillerMods Arc-AAA.
> 
> My favorite light is the LF2XT and the MillerMods I just got has the ability to go even lower, is much smaller and lighter, comes on very low and "retains memory" due to the fact that as a simple twisty it's just a single twist to go to low, then immediately to high with no lag time.
> 
> ...


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## Illumination (Dec 25, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> These are such great lights, and with all the other options out there now, unfortunately overlooked. That's why I'm pasting this mini-review from another thread that I just wrote regarding the MillerMods I just received the other day.



kaichu, this post is about one year after your last one

i was on the Miller Mod waiting list a few years ago but gave up...good to see he is delivering units!


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## kaichu dento (Dec 25, 2009)

Actually the light I have came from the Marketplace, but I really like it!


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