# Transparent Mag switch covers?



## orcinus (Nov 8, 2008)

Does anyone know if there are any semi-transparent (as in: not completely clear, but cloudy) replacement switch covers for C/D Mags out there?

(In case you're wondering why i'm asking, it's because i'd like to try to put a 3mm LED near the switch, under the cover.)

Thanks in advance!


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## Coaster (Nov 8, 2008)

I've thought about molding some I just haven't felt like spending the money for the initial supplies yet.

I had a couple ideas that needed a semi-transparent cover also. Seems funny that they anodize the lights in 400 colors but have never used anything but black switch covers.


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## orcinus (Nov 8, 2008)

Yeah, i've always thought that was weird too.

Anyways, if you decide to mold some and include a transparent one, please give me a yell. I've thought of trying to make a semi-transparent one from silicone myself, but i'm not sure if making a mold for just one switch cover would be very sensible... :shrug:


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## Coaster (Nov 8, 2008)

Thats the same path I get led down. I figure if I'm going to make 1 mold it'll be hard to mix a small enough amount of silicone to not waste 50% of what I mixed. I'm guessing you'd have to do 5-10 at a time to make it less wasteful. Then I think about making 5-10 molds and I give up. :thinking:


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## Der Wichtel (Nov 8, 2008)

My maglite has a selfmade transparent rubber cap
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2584748&postcount=71


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## AlexGT (Nov 8, 2008)

I would be interested in one of the semi transparent rubber caps if you make any.

AlexGT


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## netprince (Nov 8, 2008)

I would be interested in a few as well.


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## nein166 (Nov 9, 2008)

I just stuck a DX GITD Rubber Button in there with a O-Ring around it to hold it tight. I can see the red 5mm that is connected to my Maxflex when the Battery Voltage hits Medium level very clearly. I did invert the button and cut the little nipple off flush.


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## Sabrewolf (Nov 9, 2008)

Der Wichtel said:


> My maglite has a selfmade transparent rubber cap
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2584748&postcount=71


 

I got bored and decided to make some silicone caps.
I have been using the wax molding idea for a while,
and it works great! :twothumbs

I will let you guys/gals know how they turn out :thinking:
And if Der Wichtel wants to sell his own, he has
first rights to the sales because he brought his
meat and potatoes to the table first  
Then mee next! I don't like to step on toes :kiss:


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## AlexGT (Nov 9, 2008)

Let me know how it turns out, I am interested!


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## Der Wichtel (Nov 9, 2008)

Sabrewolf said:


> I got bored and decided to make some silicone caps.
> I have been using the wax molding idea for a while,
> and it works great! :twothumbs
> 
> ...



Just go on. :thumbsup:


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## AlexGT (Nov 9, 2008)

How does this wax molding idea work? Any tutorials?

AlexGT


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## Sabrewolf (Nov 9, 2008)

AlexGT said:


> How does this wax molding idea work? Any tutorials?
> 
> AlexGT


 
First, Go get yourself some beeswax, and a small
empty, new paintcan from your local hardware store.
Also, grab some wax paper cups and some silicone
sealant. Try to find the quick-dry stuffs. Any color
can be used. Heck, you could even mix in some
glow powder if your feeling frisky!

The beast way to make a cheap 1-sided mold is to
heat up your wax in a double boiler setup.
Take a small non-teflon saucepan and fill it 
with some water, put the stovetop 
on high to get a boil going.

While it is getting ready to boil, put a nice chunk
of wax in the paint can and lower it slowly into the
pot of boiling water. You can set the can on an angle
or the edge of the saucepan to prevent it from jumping
around with the boiling water if you'd like.
Now lower the temp of the stovetop to simmer, and wait
for the wax to melt. The slower the better.

Okay, go grab your wax cups.
Cut it down to about an inch of the bottom.
Lay down some newspaper on your counter and put
your cup on top. After the wax melt, pour it into the
cup to about halfway and let it sit to solidify a bit.
You can keep the wax on the double broiler the whole
time for this project. Just make sure that you've put it
to simmer. After your wax has slightly solidified, get
your maglight button ready for action. Give it a good
washing in some soapy water. Now take your still melted
can of wax and pour a very thin layer on top of the
slightly solidified cup-o-wax. Then push the mag button
top-side down just enough for the wax to come to the 
outer top edge. Now you play the sit-still and wait game
of letting the wax solidify just enough to hold the button
in place. Allrighty, go stick your creation on the top rack 
of your fridge for about 20 minutes. Done yet? Now go
get your creation! Make sure the wax has hardened
enough to where it is the same consistency of a candle.
You can now pop out the mag rubber button by working
around the edges until you seperate it from wax enough
to peel it out. It should have come out nicely, if the wax
was solid enough. If not, just pour some more wax over
the top and start over 

Now for the silicone! Put a nice dollup of it in the center
of the "mold" and swish it around with your finger to 
coat the sides and bottom about 1/8in or 3mm thick.
Let your creation dry for about 24 hours  
Resist the temptation of Touching it before then!
I know you want to but NO! hehe
After that time, peel it out and go shove it in your mag!
You can try different thicknesses of silicone for a 
stiffer/mushier feel. And of course you can pour multiple
molds at the same time too! Have fun with it!
Aooh, and did you remember to turn off the stove silly?
Now take one of the pait-can covers and slap it on top.
If you don't have any, Saran wrap and a rubber band
will do nicely. And don't try to do this with a hot can!
Now you have wax left over for more projects.

I hope that was somewhat informative for you :nana:

Super


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## AlexGT (Nov 9, 2008)

Thanks for the tutorial Sabrewolf!, I'm gonna give it a try!

AlexGT


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## Sabrewolf (Nov 9, 2008)

AlexGT said:


> Thanks for the tutorial Sabrewolf!, I'm gonna give it a try!
> 
> AlexGT


 

No Problem!
Just don't use the beeswax for "Extra Curricular Activities" :devil:


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## Northern Lights (Nov 9, 2008)

I was putting them in like POST #8 then I found a better way to hold them in the light body and did that with the P7 builds below. 

I use a sanding drum on the dremel or small router and cut back some of the plastic of the original switch so the O-ring will fit in there better but...

In lieu of the O-ring I use a 1/2 inch transparent blue tint vinyl hose. I cut a section off of it and I can cut it at an angle to be thinner at the LED to compensate for the bump of the LED. It also helps to luse a touch of super glue. It also catches the light and adds to the effect. I use the same GID covers from KD. With the D2DIM, and its replacement, D2FLEX the switch is turned into a momentary only. No need for a long stroke here so I shorten the stroke by putting a stop inside it. In the D size I then must trim down the post inside the cover as it is too long. Invert the cover and with a sharp blade or sharp small scissor, snip!

You also need to consider if you put the LED in from the rear or from the front of the switch. I build charging jacks on most of my modes. Plenty room to put the LED in from the rear with that mod but I need to be careful running the negative contact near all the positive braid in that contraption. The front works better in D mods, C mods the front can be too "busy" with driver boards and such. With an incan hotwire the pedestal or KIU or bi pin to PR socket can be a problem and you must put the LED in from the rear. 

Also I use 5mm LEDs. You need to know the Vf and power consumption of them and use an appropriate resistor to get a low draw glow. The thread with the N30 goes into some of that below.

The LED pro program is excellent to calculate those resistors. Here is the link: LED PRO












Here is the evolution to my builds:

IMPROVE THE N30 HID add a 225 Lumen R2 LED area light and GLOWING LED locators
FS-RECHARGEABLE 2D P7, Modes, Electronic GID & more features 
FS-RECHARGEABLE 1.5 D P7, Modes, Electronic GID & more 
FS-RECHARGEABLE 2C P7, Modes, Electronic GID & more features


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## Sabrewolf (Nov 10, 2008)

Good Ideas!



Northern Lights said:


> I was putting them in like POST #8 then I found a better way to hold them in the light body and did that with the P7 builds below.
> 
> I use a sanding drum on the dremel or small router and cut back some of the plastic of the original switch so the O-ring will fit in there better but...
> 
> ...


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## Sabrewolf (Nov 10, 2008)

I just popped some quickie prototypes out for
a lookiesee.. here is the first batch, tweeking needed.









I am doing another batch with a different process.
When i perfect the process, i will post the results
and final tutorial on how to make them. And if you
don't want to make em' yourself, I will sell the buttons
in a plain silicone form, or mixed with glowpowder for
a nice glowie effect that reacts with U.V. leds!


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## netprince (Nov 10, 2008)

Sweet! Looks like a good first try. I'll be interested in buying a two or three, depending on the price you pick...


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## AlexGT (Nov 10, 2008)

I think I'll rather pay you for one sabrewolf, yours look awesome. I might just end up stuck to a wall or something. he he he

Hey while your at it can you put some chequering texture into the button like the SF buttons have, specially the clickie button texture on the E2e is very nice.

AlexGT


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## Sabrewolf (Nov 11, 2008)

I will add it to the list 



AlexGT said:


> I think I'll rather pay you for one sabrewolf, yours look awesome. I might just end up stuck to a wall or something. he he he
> 
> Hey while your at it can you put some chequering texture into the button like the SF buttons have, specially the clickie button texture on the E2e is very nice.
> 
> AlexGT


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## d1dd1 (Nov 11, 2008)

I would be in for some (3-5)


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## horschd (Nov 11, 2008)

looks really good for a prototype!
i would buy some too when you will sell them, i dont't think i've the patience to build it by myself


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## Sabrewolf (Nov 12, 2008)

d1dd1 said:


> I would be in for some (3-5)


 


horschd said:


> looks really good for a prototype!
> i would buy some too when you will sell them, i dont't think i've the patience to build it by myself


 
Allrighty, I will start another thread in the BST section
when i have some for sale. I guess i will make a hugh
batch of them.. They should go for about 50 dollars?
Just Kidding!! Nah, maybee about 0.75 each?
does that sound good?

I should have a batch of about 20 next week..
Should i find some glow powder too? or does
anyone have any for me to buy?


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## SUBjohan (Nov 12, 2008)

Sabrewolf said:


> Nah, maybee about 0.75 each?
> does that sound good?



Sign me up for 5  and let me now when they are available.

Greetz Johan


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## netprince (Nov 12, 2008)

I'd probably buy 5-10 at 0.75 each, I have some other mags that might like the glow button treatment.

If your looking for glow powder, I recently bought a small amount from glowinc.com, shipped quickly and I got lots of email updates. It was impressively painless.



Sabrewolf said:


> Allrighty, I will start another thread in the BST section
> when i have some for sale. I guess i will make a hugh
> batch of them.. They should go for about 50 dollars?
> Just Kidding!! Nah, maybee about 0.75 each?
> ...


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## olrac (Nov 12, 2008)

I'll take 4 as well! Nice Job!!!

I'd prefer 2 no glow and 2 w/glow


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## rayman (Nov 12, 2008)

Sign my in for 3 :thumbsup:.

rayman


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## f22shift (Nov 12, 2008)

in for the glo ones :twothumbs


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## olrac (Nov 12, 2008)

PM sent


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## greenLED (Nov 12, 2008)

Sabrewolf said:


> Should i find some glow powder too? or does
> anyone have any for me to buy?


Glowinc.com has the best GID powder out there.


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## Sabrewolf (Nov 12, 2008)

f22shift said:


> in for the glo ones :twothumbs


 

I just ordered a crapload of glow powder!

Green, Purple, Blue, Red, White, And Ocean Blue

Woohoo!


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## d1dd1 (Nov 12, 2008)

:twothumbs


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## Sabrewolf (Nov 12, 2008)

Allrighty Folks,
Go to the Sales Thread if you want to buy some 
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2697251#post2697251

I May not watch this thread for Orders 
I have moved the Cpf want list to the sales thread.


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## Northern Lights (Nov 24, 2008)

You all got me thinking. I make molds and cast plastic fishing lures. I was intrigued by the wax method.
So I made up a mold and cast the silicone covers. 
My point is to show how I make a mold that works, I am not making or selling switch covers, please do not ask. I may use some for my own builds but that is all I will make.
Perfect silicone translucent switch covers this link will take you to the description of the process.
What brand of silicone are you using? The DAP is too soft to support itself. Two piece molds duplicate the original, including wall thickness is twin.

HERE ARE THREE STYLES OF COVER, THE SKIRT OF THE CLICKIE COVER WAS ENGLAGED TO WORK WITH MAGS WITHOUT O-RINGS.
The white flecks are debri, I should have blown it off, it looks like air bubbles, it is not.


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## Sabrewolf (Nov 24, 2008)

Here is the link to the silicone i use:
http://www.freemansupply.com/V3040ClearMoldMaki.htm
It can be air or heat cured. If you use heat, then the cure time
can be in minutes. If its air, which is the best method, then 24hrs.
The colder you let it get when curing, the nicer the final part due
to the bubbles rising to the surface. Since bubbles are mixed in
when you mix the catalyst with the base, then storing the whole
mix with glow powder and in the fridge will let all the bubble rise to
the surface and pop. That leaves a Mirror finish on the top!
And since the mixture is vey thick, the glow particles stay in
perfect suspension.

If you want to see the whole mold-making process, i will have
a pictorial tutorial (hehe) on the whole thing soon 



Northern Lights said:


> You all got me thinking. I make molds and cast plastic fishing lures. I was intrigued by the wax method.
> So I made up a mold and cast the silicone covers.
> My point is to show how I make a mold that works, I am not making or selling switch covers, please do not ask. I may use some for my own builds but that is all I will make.
> Perfect silicone translucent switch covers this link will take you to the description of the process.
> ...


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## wquiles (Nov 24, 2008)

Sabrewolf said:


> If you want to see the whole mold-making process, i will have
> a pictorial tutorial (hehe) on the whole thing soon



I for one would absolutely LOVE to see the pictorial :twothumbs

  

Will


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## Sabrewolf (Nov 24, 2008)

Soon, Soon, Mwahahahaha! 




wquiles said:


> I for one would absolutely LOVE to see the pictorial :twothumbs
> 
> 
> 
> Will


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## Northern Lights (Nov 24, 2008)

Sabrewolf said:


> Here is the link to the silicone i use:
> http://www.freemansupply.com/V3040ClearMoldMaki.htm
> It can be air or heat cured. If you use heat, then the cure time
> can be in minutes. If its air, which is the best method, then 24hrs.
> ...


Thank you, Oh this will be great to use with some of the lure making. There is a technique where you encase the entire model in the silicone and split it like a clam when it hardens. Then you fill it with the plastisol to make a perfect 3d lure. It looks like it would be ideal for 2-piece and 1-piece molds too. I am afraid I am drifting further and further away from CPF and back to my roots, fishing...
Oh, btw. I have a couple of mods coming up, maybe my last ones. I have been building the LED powered GID switches and looks like I need to be a consumer of one of the GID styles for those mods... keep the project going, man...


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