# Titanium Innovations Illuminati Aluminum (1xAAA XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS+



## selfbuilt (Sep 4, 2011)

*Warning: Pic heavy, as usual.*











Titanium Innovations has recently come out with a less expensive aluminum version of their 1xAAA keychain light, the Illuminati. How does this new model compare to the original titanium version? Let us see …. 

*Specifications:* 

Material: Aluminum Alloy- Hard Anodized Black
LED: Cree XP-G R5 (1B)
Battery: 1 x AAA (lithium, NiMh, or alkaline) (We do not recommend or warrant using lithium ion rechargeable batteries)
Reflector: Textured Aluminum Alloy
Operating Voltage: 0.9-3V
3 Output Levels
Low: 3 Lumens (30+ hours)
Medium: 30 Lumens (4+ hours)
High: 115 Lumens (90+ minutes)
Length: 2.66" (67.6mm)
Diameter: 0.54" (13.7mm)
Weight: 0.49oz (14g) 
Package Contents: 1 x Illuminati CA1-AL LED Flashlight, 1 x Keychain, 1 x Pocket Clip (Pocket clip is reversible for user preference), 1 x User Manual, 1 x Energizer L92 AAA battery (recommended for optimum performance), 1 x Instruction Sheet 
MSRP: ~$30






Packaging is unchanged from the titanium version. The presentation-style case (very similar to the early Fenix cases) includes the light with attached keychain ring, reversible pocket clip, spare o-rings, Energizer L92 battery, and manual. 









From left to right: Titanium Innovations Illuminati Aluminum, Illuminati Titanium, Sunwayman R01A, Maratac 1xAAA, Lumintop Worm Aluminum Black, Klarus Mi X6, 4Sevens Preon1.

All weights without battery

*Illuminati Aluminum*: Weight 13.9g (with keychain clip), Length 68.8mm, Width 14.0mm (bezel)
*Illuminati Titanium*: Weight 23.5g (with keychain clip), Length 68.8mm, Width 14.0mm (bezel)
*Klarus Mi X6*: Weight 16.2g, Length 72.9mm (battery installed), Width 12.8mm
*4Sevens Preon 1*: Weight 15.3g (with keychain clip), Length 75.6mm, Width 14.0mm (bezel)
*ITP EOS A3 Upgraded:* Weight: 11.6g (no clip), Length: 69.7, Width 14.1mm (bezel)

The aluminum version has the same overall build as the titanium version, only lighter due to the aluminum construction














The black body has a fairly matte finish, with bright white lettering (sharp and clear). While there is still no knurling to speak of, the patterned squares over the surface of the light do help with grip. I found the light can be easily operated one-handed, but a little extra grip on the head would be nice.

Tailstanding is possible on both models. As before the keychain attachment point seems fairly thin – I wasn’t too concerned on the titanium version, but this aluminum version should be carefully inspected to make sure all is secure.

The Illuminati uses a spring in the tailcap, like many lights in this class.

*Video Overview*

_*NEW:* Normally at this point in the review, I like to show the emitter/reflector and beamshots. But I’m trying something new - video reviews showing both the basic build and user interface. Check it out below. Beamshots will follow after the user interface and circuit discussion._

[video=youtube;WXdPARTB4Z4] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXdPARTB4Z4[/video]

Video was recorded in 720p HD, but YouTube defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the 360p icon in the lower right-hand corner, and select the higher 480p and 720p options if you like. 

*User Interface*

Turn on by fully tightening the head/bezel against the body. The light is off when the bezel is loosened slightly.

Light comes on in Lo output to start. To select a different level, twist the head off and then back on again within 1 second. This will advance to the next level in the following repeating sequence: Lo > Med > > Hi.

There is no memory mode. 

*PWM/Strobe*






The Illuminati Aluminum uses 1kHz PWM on its Lo/Med mode, which is not readily apparent visually. This is a slight bump up from my original Titanium version, which was ~1kHz on Lo, but ~885 Hz on Med.

There is no strobe feature.

*Beamshots:*

And now the part you’ve all been waiting for. 









The Illumati Aluminum comes with a lightly textured reflector (OP) and uses a XP-E emitter. Centering of the emitters wasn’t already perfect, but acceptable on all my samples.

Which brings me to the white-wall beamshots.  All lights are on 1xAAA Sanyo Eneloop NiMH, about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. All beamshots taken immediately upon activation.

Note the original titanium version is just list as "XP-G R5" below.














































I find most 1xAAA lights to have fairly diffused beams, with broad hotspots. The aluminum version is not appreciably different from the titanium one.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have recently devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lighbox values to Lumens thread for more info.

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

*Effective November 2010, I have revised my summary tables to match with the current ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.sliderule.ca/FL1.htm for a description of the terms used in these tables.*






Output is somewhat increased on standard cells - although I expect this is common to the latest version of the circuit, and would be true of the currenty-shipping titanium version as well. Max output and throw is reasonable for the class.

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*




























There has been a definite improvement in the Max output on alkaline, and a smaller increase on NiMH (although again, this probably now common for all versions that share this circuit). On all other modes and other batteries, there is no apparent difference between the Illuminati versions. 

Overall performance remains typical for the PWM-based class of 1xAAAXP-G R5 lights.

*Potential Issues*

Light uses PWM for its Lo/Med mode, but at a not distracting 1 kHz frequency.

Light can be used single-handed, but extra grip on the head would be advantageous.

*Preliminary Observations*

The original titanium Illuminati was a solid light 1xAAA light. I EDCed it for several months when it first came out, and it worked reliably during that time. I like seeing this new lower cost aluminum version – it provides another option for those looking for a simple, straight-forward, keychain light. 

Aside from the choice of material, all other aspects of this light seem unchanged – including the emitter, circuit, and form factor and build. One minor upgrade is the increased PWM from ~850 Hz to 1 kHz on the Med mode – but I imagine that’s a standard improvement made to the common circuit. Same goes for the increased max output on alkaline and NiMH. :thumbsup:

Although titanium has a much stiffer build, aluminum lights are easier to use in one sense – the thread action is smooth on my aluminum Illuminati, whereas the titanium version suffers from the common galling effect (i.e. stiffer, gritty-feeling threads).

Circuit performance is unchanged, and the Illuminati is still quite respectable for this class. There hasn’t been a great deal of innovation in 1xAAA lights this past year, except for a couple of models that current-controlled (offering flatter regulation and better runtimes on Lo/Med). One change I would like to see here is an even higher PWM frequency – while 1 kHz is quite decent, something >2 kHz would be completely undetectable. 

If you are looking for a basic model 1xAAA keychain light, the Illuminati aluminum is certainly worthy model to consider. :wave:

----

Illuminati aluminum provided by Battery Junction for review.


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## Haesslich (Sep 4, 2011)

Definitely cheaper at $30, but not lacking in accessories. How do you think it'll survive in a pocket with keys? Bound to get scratched up, but does it feel as robust?


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## selfbuilt (Sep 4, 2011)

Haesslich said:


> Definitely cheaper at $30, but not lacking in accessories. How do you think it'll survive in a pocket with keys? Bound to get scratched up, but does it feel as robust?


Feels about the same as other anodized aluminum lights. I imagine the black will wear quickly on a keychain.


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## Haesslich (Sep 4, 2011)

selfbuilt said:


> Feels about the same as other anodized aluminum lights. I imagine the black will wear quickly on a keychain.


 
Just thinking of the "my Quark Mini AA has died" posts or the Preons. Less expensive than a Sapphire, but as reliable as the old Arcs?


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## nzbazza (Sep 4, 2011)

The chart showing the runtimes for Hi mode on eneloops has a surprise... does the Illuminati Al really have a runtime of 17 mins to 50% cf. about 1hr for most of the other lights shown including the Illuminati Ti? Is the circuit performance really unchanged or is this a case of dodgy battery/data?


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## Gianna (Sep 5, 2011)

How does everyone like to way you turn on and advance the light/lumens by rotation as opposed to a switch or button?


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## selfbuilt (Sep 5, 2011)

nzbazza said:


> The chart showing the runtimes for Hi mode on eneloops has a surprise... does the Illuminati Al really have a runtime of 17 mins to 50% cf. about 1hr for most of the other lights shown including the Illuminati Ti? Is the circuit performance really unchanged or is this a case of dodgy battery/data?


Ooops, my bad. That was an earlier runtime I did on a partially-charged battery. I re-did the run, but somehow the old runtime was left on the chart. I've uploaded the correct chart - it should display properly now. As you will see, there is a bump in max output, and runtime is good.



Gianna said:


> How does everyone like to way you turn on and advance the light/lumens by rotation as opposed to a switch or button?


I think many would prefer a switch, but that is uncommon on 1xAAA lights (due to the extra length). There are a number of models around that offer it, though.


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## Jep (Sep 6, 2011)

another great review... this light is next on my list, i never realized how powerfull a single aaa light could be.


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## jcalvert (Sep 13, 2011)

> Although titanium has a much stiffer build, aluminum lights are easier to use in one sense – the thread action is smooth on my aluminum Illuminati, whereas the titanium version suffers from the common galling effect (i.e. stiffer, gritty-feeling threads).



I have the Ti version, and even though I cleaned the threads with alcohol and then applied Nyogel immediately after receiving the light, and then again a few days later with SuperLube instead, the galling is still horrible. Considering beyond possibly having received a poorly threaded light, do you have any suggestions to improve the thread action, or is this just the nature of tight pitched, small diameter titanium threads? Thanks!

-John


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## selfbuilt (Sep 14, 2011)

jcalvert said:


> I have the Ti version, and even though I cleaned the threads with alcohol and then applied Nyogel immediately after receiving the light, and then again a few days later with SuperLube instead, the galling is still horrible. Considering beyond possibly having received a poorly threaded light, do you have any suggestions to improve the thread action, or is this just the nature of tight pitched, small diameter titanium threads?


Sounds like you have tried what you can - that's much the same sequence as I use for titanium lights. :shrug:


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## candle lamp (Sep 14, 2011)

Thanks for your nice review including video. Selfbuilt!


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## Kletsou (Sep 21, 2011)

Thank you for the as usual good review! I am still a bit partial to playing with EDCs AAAx1, AAx1 and 123x1.

The technology applied and the light outputs we get with these provide us with good EDCs. The next big thing will be if can get the anodized aluminium lights have better aesthetics and not to look so bad for wear after a couple of months in the pockets with keys and change!


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## Gregozedobe (Sep 21, 2011)

jcalvert said:


> I have the Ti version, and even though I cleaned the threads with alcohol and then applied Nyogel immediately after receiving the light, and then again a few days later with SuperLube instead, the galling is still horrible. Considering beyond possibly having received a poorly threaded light, do you have any suggestions to improve the thread action, or is this just the nature of tight pitched, small diameter titanium threads? Thanks!



You could also try polishing the threads with a mild abrasive such as a metal polish, car (paint) polish (not wax) or even just common toothpaste - just make sure you thoroughly clean the threads afterwards, then lubricate with Nyogel. This improved the feel of the threads on my Illuminati Ti, but they were still gritty.


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## Calina (Sep 29, 2011)

selfbuilt said:


> I think many would prefer a switch, but that is uncommon on 1xAAA lights (due to the extra length). There are a number of models around that offer it, though.


 
The Illuminati is short enough that, in a new version, it could easily accomodate a switch and still be of an acceptable length.


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## jagpad (Oct 2, 2011)

Excellent review, thank you


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## nutcracker (Oct 23, 2011)

What is the difference of the 1B color to the color used in the titanium versions?
Titanium http://www.lygte-info.dk/pic/Beamshot20110907 AAA/beamshot/DSC_9249.jpg
Aluminum with 1B http://www.lygte-info.dk/pic/Beamshot20110907 AAA/beamshot/DSC_9252.jpg
(compare it side by side)


On my IPS monitor the 1B looks a bit more yellowish.


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## nutcracker (Oct 24, 2011)

Another question:
On Med Mode with Eneloops.
The iTP A3 Eos has higher output and shorter runtime. But they state on med it has 22 lumens.
And the Titanium Innovations AL has more runtime and less output compared to the iTP. But they state it has 30 lumens

How can this be?


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## selfbuilt (Oct 24, 2011)

nutcracker said:


> The iTP A3 Eos has higher output and shorter runtime. But they state on med it has 22 lumens.
> And the Titanium Innovations AL has more runtime and less output compared to the iTP. But they state it has 30 lumens
> How can this be?


Because their lumen estimates aren't accurate.  

As you can tell from my chart, the newer ITP A3 (XP-G R5) has higher output than the TI AL. I would estimate the TI AL is actually in the low 20 lumens range, and the ITP A3 XP-G is in the high 20 lumens range. It is hard to provide accurate measures, but the relative comparisons are what count here.


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## nutcracker (Oct 24, 2011)

OK then, I rather take the illuminati with the longer lasting med mode. Because if I want more output I switch to high mode. (on which both lights have the same lumens/time data)

Any thoughts on the color temperature of the 1B illuminati AL vs. all other AAA XP-g lights?
As I said, the beamshot of the 1B looks more yellow to me.

I took the beamshots from there http://www.lygte-info.dk/review/Beamshot AAA lights 2011-09 UK.html

Titanium innovations Ti http://www.lygte-info.dk/pic/Beamshot20110907 AAA/beamshot/DSC_9249.jpg
Titanium innovations Aluminum with 1B http://www.lygte-info.dk/pic/Beamshot20110907 AAA/beamshot/DSC_9252.jpg
olight i3 http://www.lygte-info.dk/pic/Beamshot20110907 AAA/beamshot/DSC_9242.jpg


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## selfbuilt (Oct 24, 2011)

nutcracker said:


> Any thoughts on the color temperature of the 1B illuminati AL vs. all other AAA XP-g lights?
> As I said, the beamshot of the 1B looks more yellow to me.


Hmmm, those beamshots do make it look a little yellower than the others. You would need to check with HKJ to see what his perspective is, since he took the beamshots. I haven't done detailed comparisons, but 1B seems quite believable for my TI Al sample.


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## Pointoflight (Jul 5, 2012)

Purchased the aluminum model. I doubt it puts out the stated 115 lumens. compared it to my fenix E11 rated at 105 lumens on high and the fenix put out a lot more light. Got the illuminati to replace my $19.00 Fenix E05 rated at 27 lumens and though it is brighter than the e05 on high, it is certainly not putting out 115lm. I used the same battery brand on all lights ....energizer lithium. My best guess s that it puts out about 70-80 lm on high setting. Not bad for a small aaa light, but no way it meets it's advertised rating.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 6, 2012)

Pointoflight said:


> Purchased the aluminum model. I doubt it puts out the stated 115 lumens. compared it to my fenix E11 rated at 105 lumens on high and the fenix put out a lot more light. ... My best guess s that it puts out about 70-80 lm on high setting. Not bad for a small aaa light, but no way it meets it's advertised rating.


Yes, I would agree with that assessment. As you will see in the tables in this review, I estimate the IlluminaTi puts out ~70-80 ANSI FL-1 lumens on Hi. I have not done a review of the Fenix E11, but I have handled one, and my lightbox estimates it puts out ~130-140 ANSI FL-1 lumens on Hi (depending on battery type).

Oh, and :welcome:


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## Pointoflight (Jul 6, 2012)

Thanks. My 70-80 lm estimate was just a guesstimate. Glad my suspicions were confirmed by a person who knows his stuff.


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## orangish ducktape (Oct 10, 2012)

Could anyone provide a picture comparing the Ti Innovation Illuminati Al to a Fenix E01?


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## BlackhawkB (Oct 12, 2012)

I don't get it, are the 115 lumens OTF ANSI in high ?
Because a D25A with 1xAA last about 1h in high mode 110 lumens OTF, how come this one can last 90min in 115 lumens with 1xAAA ?


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## selfbuilt (Oct 13, 2012)

BlackhawkB said:


> I don't get it, are the 115 lumens OTF ANSI in high ?
> Because a D25A with 1xAA last about 1h in high mode 110 lumens OTF, how come this one can last 90min in 115 lumens with 1xAAA ?


It is not. As you will see in the review, I only get 70-78 peak lumens, and one hour runtime on NiMH. Most of that time is spent at a lower <65 lumen level.


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## Bugsy68 (Nov 6, 2012)

I gave this light to my fiance to keep on her keychain and it worked pretty good for a while! It was the right size that she didn't complain about it and she actually used it often. Since it was so small (and on her keyring) she was always able to find it in her purse. The problem is the twist top head fell off, presumably in one of her purses, and she can't find it. Now the light is useless. I'd like to replace it but I think the same thing will happen again. She tried some of the larger lights (CR123 / AA size) but didn't like them because they either were to big / heavy on her keyring or they'd get lost at the bottom of her purse.

Are there any lights this size that are not so easy to unscrew / lose important parts? 

Thanks!


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## selfbuilt (Nov 6, 2012)

Bugsy68 said:


> Are there any lights this size that are not so easy to unscrew / lose important parts?


Hmm, likely to be a common problem with all 1xAAA lights. Not sure which maker uses the most threads (which would at least increase the difficulty in losing the head), but you could compare the body pics of various 1xAAA models I've tested (review list is in my signature block).

Good luck!


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## BigTzzy (Nov 7, 2012)

I ordered one of these about 2 weeks ago and due to it being out of stock on back order I won't receive it until this Friday. (hopefully)

During the last call to Battery Junctions customer service they advised that the light has gotten some "upgrades".

First one, the light is now aluminum and not titanium.

Second one, they told be the light is now 130 lumens up from the 115.

I look forward to getting my light as I like to carry my AAA flash lights every day in my pocket.


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## Hery Cyd (Mar 14, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Hmm, likely to be a common problem with all 1xAAA lights. Not sure which maker uses the most threads (which would at least increase the difficulty in losing the head), but you could compare the body pics of various 1xAAA models I've tested (review list is in my signature block).
> 
> Good luck!



Hi slefbuilt,

Sorry to bring up an old thread.

My name is Hery. Allow this noob to ask a few questions. 
Your beamshots posts has helped me a lot in deciding which flashlight to buy.

After looking at a lot of 1xAAA powered flashlight reviews, I am interested in Illuminati Ti.
(unless you have a better suggestion for a brighter 1xAAA/10440 flashlight)

However, I always get confused with your beamshots and you table/graphs.
For example in this thread, the beamshots clearly shows that the original Ti is brighter than the Al. But the table show that Al got higher lumens (78) than the original Ti (70).
Also all the graphs shows that Al is better than Ti.

In short, same case with other beamshots reviews, to decide which flashlight is brighter, should I use the beamshots or the table/graphs?

I might be wrong or don't understand the table/graphs so please forgive my noobness.
Thanks in advance.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 15, 2013)

Hery Cyd said:


> However, I always get confused with your beamshots and you table/graphs.
> For example in this thread, the beamshots clearly shows that the original Ti is brighter than the Al. But the table show that Al got higher lumens (78) than the original Ti (70).
> Also all the graphs shows that Al is better than Ti.


Hi Heri,

I always recommend people rely on the tables and charts, as they compare lights under identical conditions. The up-close beamshots can be misleading when comparing lights of different beam profiles (and even tints, in some cases).

But in this case, it seems to me something is definitely off with my beamshots of the Al version. In real life, side-by-side, the two seem very close in brightness, with a slight output advantage to my Al version (as the tables and runtimes show). There might have been an issue with the camera for the beamshots, I will see if I can do some new ones.

Note that there shouldn't practically be any significant difference between the Al and Ti versions in use - both use the same emitter and circuit, as far as I know. Any difference is just natural variation among the components.


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## Hery Cyd (Mar 15, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Hi Heri,
> 
> I always recommend people rely on the tables and charts, as they compare lights under identical conditions. The up-close beamshots can be misleading when comparing lights of different beam profiles (and even tints, in some cases).
> 
> ...



Awesome. Understood, Mr. Selfbuilt.
I will look more to tables and graphs from now on and use your beamshots as additional references.
Thanks for the reply.


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## Explore NH (Mar 31, 2013)

Sorry to dig up such an old review. I have had my light for 3 months and just now realized it was supposed to have 3 output levels. It was a gift and I love the size of this light. All this time I was disappointed that it wasn't brighter. I've tried to cycle through them just as I do with my other lights but I can't seem to get this one to change output. I've pulled the battery (Energizer Lithium Ion) and changed to alkaline but no change in output no matter how fast I cycle the bezel.

Not sure what level it's stuck at but I'd like to know if it's fixable. Iv'e sent an email to Battery Junction but I think its outside of their warranty. I wish I had known sooner that it was supposed to be brighter.

Any help on how to reset this? Tips? Tricks?


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## selfbuilt (Mar 31, 2013)

Explore NH said:


> Not sure what level it's stuck at but I'd like to know if it's fixable. Iv'e sent an email to Battery Junction but I think its outside of their warranty. I wish I had known sooner that it was supposed to be brighter.


If the multi-modes never worked, and you are disappointed with the output, I'm going to guess the circuit is damaged and the light is running direct-drive at a low drive current. It is only "fixable" in the sense that a whole new pill (emitter/circuit combo) would likely be needed. See what BJ says ...


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## mactavish (Jun 23, 2013)

Just curious if anyone has had a chance to weigh the Titanium version of this flashlight against the aluminum version? Granted you would have to own both. I've seen so many weights for these in "grams", and no real baseline. Some weigh them in their reviews with the chain, some even with the battery. Seems logical to me, that the only way to compare them would be without the battery, and without the chain. 

Titanium is supposed to be lighter, but against aluminum and the way something is machined, it seems that titanium can in fact weigh more in terms of these tiny lights? I am a happy owner of a iTP A3 EOS "upgraded" 96 "supposed" lumens AAA light, and got what was listed as the "last one" on Amazon a week or so ago, but then suddenly another by "ITP Tires" sold version, appears now, for get this........... $148.00! I paid $40.00, so while I know they don't produce them anymore under this brand, I'm wondering who is going to pay that much, I paid more then I thought it was really worth, though I'm happy with it. But, I want to get a simular AAA with a longer lasting finish (mine is black aluminum) to sit in my pocket getting scrached on the keychain. Thinking "polished" aluminum, read it scratches, dull finishes, read those coatings scratch, now looking at Titanium, maybe no finish is really scratch proof? Just looking for the lightest, most scratch resistant AAA, that of course is NO larger then my iTP, just for my pocket carry. Thanks.

Never-mind I found the info further down in "selfbuilt's" GREAT review, BIG weight difference:

*Illuminati Aluminum*: Weight 13.9g (with keychain clip), Length 68.8mm, Width 14.0mm (bezel)
*Illuminati Titanium*: Weight 23.5g (with keychain clip), Length 68.8mm, Width 14.0mm (bezel)

My Titanium version will be here this week, so I'll know first hand if it really feels heavier in pocket.


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## Emoto (May 21, 2015)

Hi guys, great forum!

Not sure where to post this, but I have a Titanium Innovations CA1-AL and after 2 years of gentle pocket carry and very little use, it no longer lights up. Contacts are clean and battery is fresh. Any thoughts on how to repair? I've emailed TI but they have not responded. Any advice appreciated. It was a great little light, but not a good value if you can only get a couple of years out of one.


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## selfbuilt (May 21, 2015)

Emoto said:


> Not sure where to post this, but I have a Titanium Innovations CA1-AL and after 2 years of gentle pocket carry and very little use, it no longer lights up. Contacts are clean and battery is fresh. Any thoughts on how to repair? I've emailed TI but they have not responded. Any advice appreciated. It was a great little light, but not a good value if you can only get a couple of years out of one.


Outside of cleaning the contacts, there is not much you can do. Unfortunately, circuits can go without warning.

:welcome:


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## Emoto (May 22, 2015)

selfbuilt said:


> Outside of cleaning the contacts, there is not much you can do. Unfortunately, circuits can go without warning.
> 
> :welcome:



Thanks for the welcome! :thumbsup:

Does nobody sell parts? :sigh:


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## selfbuilt (May 22, 2015)

Emoto said:


> Does nobody sell parts? :sigh:


You could certainly check with Battery Junction about servicing. I don't know their policies off hand though.


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## Emoto (May 22, 2015)

selfbuilt said:


> You could certainly check with Battery Junction about servicing. I don't know their policies off hand though.



Yeah, did that. No joy. The shame is that I really like this little light. If only it worked, LOL. Not trying to be a whiner or overly negative, but thirty bucks is thirty bucks. 

I was using the Fenix E01 as an EDC for a long time, and liked them so much that I bought several to give to friends as gifts. Nothing ever went wrong with those, and I still have several of them. Great little lights, and only $10-14 depending on where purchased. I was seduced by the high lumens of the CA1-AL though.


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## BarryG (May 23, 2015)

Same thing happened to my IlluminaTi a few years back. Cleaned the contact at the head a few times and it has worked great ever since. 






Barry


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## Emoto (May 23, 2015)

BarryG said:


> Same thing happened to my IlluminaTi a few years back. Cleaned the contact at the head a few times and it has worked great ever since. Barry


 Really? I feel almost silly asking, but how did you clean it?


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## selfbuilt (May 23, 2015)

Emoto said:


> Really? I feel almost silly asking, but how did you clean it?


A contact cleaner like Deoxit works best, but high proof rubbing alcohol will do in a pinch. Use a moistened q-tip to scrub all the surfaces clean. Don't forget to to do the screw threads - and especially the part where the body makes contact with the disc in the head.


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## Emoto (May 24, 2015)

selfbuilt said:


> A contact cleaner like Deoxit works best, but high proof rubbing alcohol will do in a pinch. Use a moistened q-tip to scrub all the surfaces clean. Don't forget to to do the screw threads - and especially the part where the body makes contact with the disc in the head.


 Thanks! I have contact cleaner and Q-tips. Will give this a shot later today. Nothing appears oxidized, but it can only help, i suppose. I will be thrilled if this fixes it.


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## BarryG (May 25, 2015)

Let us know if it works. 
A pencil eraser works in a pinch as well... 



Barry


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## Emoto (May 25, 2015)

BarryG said:


> Let us know if it works. A pencil eraser works in a pinch as well... Barry


 Nope. Didn't work. NFG. Titanium Innovations is off my list of future purchases. They finally responded to a second email inquiry saying that the price of a new head was the same as a new light. No way am I giving them any more of my $.


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