# glue/threadlocker, tuff opening lights?



## cy (Oct 31, 2005)

Does anyone know a reliable way to open up lights with new type Glue/threadlocker? 

Surefire, Arc, etc have been using threadlocker forever. but those can be defeated without damge to lights. 

new generation threadlocker used in fenix, riverrock etc is proving more dificult to break bond without damaging light. 

Does anyone know of a reliable way to open up lights with new type threadlocker? 

thanks,


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## PacketStorm (Oct 31, 2005)

One thing that I haven't seen mentioned here before was acetone. I've use acetone to remove CA (which threadlocker is similar to).

Acetone will eat some plastics so you've got to really watch that - I'm not sure about polycarbonate - LED domes? 

Just a quick thought...


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## 1331 (Nov 1, 2005)

I've opened a couple of the RR 2 AAA light heads with a hot air gun, afterwards I hand chase the threads with a stiff bent wire shaped like a threading tool. I have used acetone to help cleanup afterward on alunimun. Acetone will damage polycarbonate.


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## Illuminated (Nov 1, 2005)

I have disassembled several stubborn Dorcy AAAs, two RR 2AAAs, and a very stubborn Brookstone Super-Lux 2 x 123 all using virtually the same method, and all without any damage whatsoever.

I cut a long (24") piece from a road bicycle inner tube (700x20-25C), and tightly wrap several layers around the body of the light. This wrap effectively increases the diameter and leverage when gripping by hand or when using a rubber strap wrench. It also does not slip too much unlike the strap wrenches. I also wrap the head in the same fashion if needed.

The Dorcy 1AAAs usually come loose using only my hands. One of the RR 2AAs needed the strap wrenches to break the bond.

The Brookstone was much more stubborn than any I have encountered to date. For that one, I made special tools from a couple of pieces of oak 2 x 4. I first made a vise block by boring a hole through the wood, the diameter being slightly larger than the body of the light to allow room for 2 compressed layers of inner tube. I bisected the hole (cutting with the grain) using the bandsaw. I wrapped the light with the inner tube and placed the vise blocks around it before clamping the assembly in the bench vise.

I then bored a hole for the bezel in a second longer piece of wood (again slightly oversized to allow for 2 layers of tube wrap). I bored the hole 2 inches from one end of the piece so the long end would give me some leverage. I used the bandsaw again to bisect the hole, cutting about 3 inches beyond the hole. I then wraped the head and worked it into the hole (slightly snug fit) before applying a clamp across it to provide the necessary grip.

Between the full-diameter clamping on both pieces along with the friction of the rubber and the leverage of the "clamp wrench", I was able to finally conquer this one, whereas all other methods I tried (including heat) had failed.

YMMV...

Good Luck - John


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## cy (Nov 1, 2005)

sounds like brute force using special constructed collects is only reliable way to open. 

sure was hoping to find another method...


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## Vortex (Nov 4, 2005)

Illuminated, thanks for the bycicle tube idea. I've been trying to get the stubborn head off of my Gerber LX 3.0

I tried boilling it in a ziploc bag, I held the flat part of the body with a pair of vice grips and used a strap wrech on the head but it would slip.


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## Ikonomi (Dec 2, 2005)

I just opened a River Rock 2AAA using a pair of rubber gloves, the yellow kind you wear while cleaning bathrooms. 

Fold each glove over twice to give a fat area to grip and wrap one around the head of the light and one around the body. Just make sure you wrap them in the direction you're twisting, because they stretch. Then twist, and you'll be able to pretty easily break the seal.


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