# Mag-num Star Xenon Lamps - worth it?



## WillJitsu (Jan 1, 2009)

I saw on maglite.com that you can buy the Mag-num Star Xenon Lamps for the 2 D-cell Maglite and it's supposed to be 100% brighter.

Is this lamp a lot better than the one that comes with it?


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## ginaz (Jan 1, 2009)

they are good bulbs. i like to run them with aa's and slightly overdriven. maybe look at a malkoff led dropin?


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## WillJitsu (Jan 1, 2009)

ginaz said:


> they are good bulbs. i like to run them with aa's and slightly overdriven. maybe look at a malkoff led dropin?


Well can I get some information about purchasing the malkoff led dropin?


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## Sgt. LED (Jan 1, 2009)

Malkoffdevices.com

Just have to cut the tower off of the stock reflector.


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## WillJitsu (Jan 1, 2009)

If I purchase this and install it in my 2 D-cell Maglite, will it have the same rings when creating a wider beam?

If so, is there a way to fix that so it is a solid circle of light?


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## Gunner12 (Jan 1, 2009)

It will still have the rings. It's the reflector that causes the rings and not the light emitter. It will give you much more output though.

Check this thread if you are looking for Maglite drop-ins/mods. None of them will make the light better defocused though, the rings are caused by the light source not at the focal point of the reflector.

:welcome:


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## american lockpicker (Jan 1, 2009)

I use them in my 2 C and other that the rings I like them.


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## Helstar (Jan 1, 2009)

I use the Xenon, bulbs. It is a nice cheap upgrade. I like the brighter white light. The hot spot is smaller and much tighter. The spill is not as nice. And for some reason when you move the light to fast it gives the appearance on the wall of flickering. It is NOT actually flickering as I have tested it time and time again. Bit on certain color wall running over like ledges or the outside of frames you notice it. Run time appears longer as well, not like an LED upgrade. But for three dollars, I think it is a nice choice. I really think these bulbs should be stock and not an upgrade. 
I have a 3 D that is running this bulb. I am going to switch out the lens and that will be all for this light. I am going to do the Terrlux upgrade with lens and reflector and possibly batteries to my one of my other 3D mags. The other D celss I am not sure what I am going to do with them. I am more into the smaller lights. 
I hope this help. If you want a cheap, easy, noticeable upgrade for less then 5 bucks, I would say that the Xenon is the way to go.


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## PCC (Jan 1, 2009)

I have the Xenon bulb in my old 2D Mag and I have the MagLED in my newer 2D Mag. The Xenon bulb is roughly the same brightness as the MagLED module on fresh batteries. After the batteries have been used for a while the Xenon bulb is less bright unless you compare the MagLED after it has been on for more than 15 minutes because the thermal protection drops the output due to the LED heating up. The LED drains the batteries down a lot further than the Xenon bulb does, though, and you will get roughly three to four times more usage from a set of fresh batteries than the Xenon bulb does.


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## Hooked on Fenix (Jan 1, 2009)

They are worth it. In my experience, they provide about the same runtime and are 50% brighter than the krypton bulb. Nowadays, I use the Magleds though. It's more fun and useful to put these bulbs in smaller flashlights with more useful beams. I like using the 4D Xenon bulb in a 4AA Princeton Tec Tec 40 flashlight run on NiMH batteries.


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## defloyd77 (Jan 2, 2009)

Hooked on Fenix said:


> I like using the 4D Xenon bulb in a 4AA Princeton Tec Tec 40 flashlight run on NiMH batteries.



Wouldn't the 3D be a better option for this setup?


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## Mr Happy (Jan 2, 2009)

defloyd77 said:


> Wouldn't the 3D be a better option for this setup?


I think the 3D xenon bulb would be in instaflash territory when driven by 4 NiMH. It's a 3.6 V bulb that is already running a very high filament temperature. Giving it the 4.8 V or so from 4 cells is likely to push it over the edge.

The 3D krypton bulb might survive better but it would still have a shortened life.


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## ltiu (Jan 2, 2009)

Mr Happy said:


> I think the 3D xenon bulb would be in instaflash territory when driven by 4 NiMH.


 
I concur. This has happened to me a few times already.


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## ZMZ67 (Jan 2, 2009)

I have tried overdriving the 3D Xenon with four NiMH AAs and it instaflashed.The 3D Krypton can be overdriven but I don't think it is any better than a 4D Xenon.The 4D Xenon provides a better quality beam in my PT40 than the 3D Krypton.


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## lctorana (Jan 2, 2009)

When I want to overdrive, I go halogen.

For 4 NiCad or NiMH cells, try the Philips HPR53.

It's 4V, so has a little higher design voltage than most 3-cell bulbs, and overdrives beautifully on 4 cells.


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## defloyd77 (Jan 3, 2009)

Mr Happy said:


> I think the 3D xenon bulb would be in instaflash territory when driven by 4 NiMH. It's a 3.6 V bulb that is already running a very high filament temperature. Giving it the 4.8 V or so from 4 cells is likely to push it over the edge.
> 
> The 3D krypton bulb might survive better but it would still have a shortened life.



3D would be 4.5v, not too far from 4.8 for 4 NiMH.


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## Mr Happy (Jan 3, 2009)

defloyd77 said:


> 3D would be 4.5v, not too far from 4.8 for 4 NiMH.


Your wishful thinking in the face of evidence to the contrary is endearing, but two posters after me have confirmed what I said about instaflashing. 

I will repeat for a second time that a 3D bulb is designed for 3.6 V, give or take the odd 0.1 V. Here is just one example to illustrate.


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## ginaz (Jan 3, 2009)

i have not had any probs running the 3d bulb on 4 aa nimh.


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## defloyd77 (Jan 3, 2009)

I have read many other users saying they use 3 cell xenon bulbs in 4 cell applications, (perhaps not the Mag-num?) so I assume they make them so they're already overdriven then?


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## ZMZ67 (Jan 3, 2009)

I had limited success overdriving the 3D Xenon with alkalines but I believe those batteries were somewhat depleted.Additional attempts at overdriving the 3D Xenon with 4AAs(alkaline and NiMH) have resulted in instafash.You may get lucky sometimes but it is too unreliable for practical use IMO.


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## Mr Happy (Jan 3, 2009)

defloyd77 said:


> I have read many other users saying they use 3 cell xenon bulbs in 4 cell applications, (perhaps not the Mag-num?) so I assume they make them so they're already overdriven then?


The design calculation might go a bit like this:

An alkaline cell has a voltage that varies from 1.6 V when fresh to 1.1 V (say) when empty. The empty point happens when people decide the light is too dim and that is a matter of personal preference.

When powering a light a D cell may lose about 0.2 V to internal resistance, so the voltage range is 1.4 V to 0.9 V per cell, or 4.2 V to 2.7 V in a 3D light. Another 0.3 V or so will be lost to the switch and spring resistance in the light, which brings the bulb voltage down to 3.9 V decreasing to 2.4 V.

So a 3.6 V bulb will be slightly over-driven on fresh batteries, but will soon be under-driven and yellowing as the batteries deplete.

With an NiMH cell the voltage under load varies between 1.3 V and 1.1 V from fresh to empty. Using the same calculation as above, and assuming the same 0.3 V switch and spring losses, the voltage range at the bulb will be 3 x 1.3 - 0.3 = 3.6 V down to 3 x 1.1 - 0.3 = 3.0 V. The bulb is just about right at the start, and under-driven at the end.

Adding an extra cell would change the 3.6 V to 4 x 1.3 - 0.3 = 4.9 V. Feeding 4.9 V to a 3.6 V bulb, especially a xenon bulb, is going to stress it beyond breaking point (it's 36% over design voltage). If you use slightly depleted cells or if the light has higher than usual circuit resistance then it might just survive, but will have a short life.

All my numbers above are just estimates for illustration, but they are probably not far from the truth.


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## Chrontius (Jan 3, 2009)

Absolutely worth it.



Mr Happy said:


> I think the 3D xenon bulb would be in instaflash territory when driven by 4 NiMH. It's a 3.6 V bulb that is already running a very high filament temperature. Giving it the 4.8 V or so from 4 cells is likely to push it over the edge.
> 
> The 3D krypton bulb might survive better but it would still have a shortened life.



Tried the 3D Xenon on a four-cell lantern battery. It made it for a half-second.

Tried the 4D Xenon on a four-cell lantern battery. Runs like a champ, throws like a spotlight. Beats my ROP for lux past about fifty feet.


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## toolpig1 (Jan 5, 2009)

Question about these "xenon" lamps: I have a bunch of lamps that say "mag-num star krypton" from years ago. On the back of the packages, it says lamp no. MSA-3, it also says model no. LMSA 301. These lamps came one per package and included a metal spacer ring. The glass portion of the lamp is perfectly cylindrical and has round, bubble-like top. Are these lamps an earlier version of the "xenon" lamps you refer to?

I also have a bunch of standard "white-star krypton" lamps that came two per package. They appear different with a more typical tapered glass that comes to a point. These are definitely the same lamps that come in the standard incan Mags today.

Another question, besides quite a few of the above, I have a significant number of minimag lamps (2AA, 2AAA, and solitaire). Is there a market for these here on CPF, or would you guys suggest fleabay? Other than my Ultrastinger, I think my incan days are done.

What do you know about lamps by Streamlight called "Nova halogen"? I have a few of each (3 and 4 cell), but have never used them.


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## Mr Happy (Jan 5, 2009)

Krypton and xenon are two different kinds of gas used to fill the glass envelope of bulbs. Krypton lamps are the usual premium kind and are usually about twice as bright as the cheap non-premium vacuum bulbs. Xenon fill is used in the most expensive bulbs and usually provides for a smaller, hotter filament with a whiter light. The total brightness is normally a bit better than krypton, but the main difference is in the whiteness.


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## american lockpicker (Jan 5, 2009)

toolpig1 said:


> Question about these "xenon" lamps: I have a bunch of lamps that say "mag-num star krypton" from years ago. On the back of the packages, it says lamp no. MSA-3, it also says model no. LMSA 301. These lamps came one per package and included a metal spacer ring. The glass portion of the lamp is perfectly cylindrical and has round, bubble-like top. Are these lamps an earlier version of the "xenon" lamps you refer to?
> 
> I also have a bunch of standard "white-star krypton" lamps that came two per package. They appear different with a more typical tapered glass that comes to a point. These are definitely the same lamps that come in the standard incan Mags today.
> 
> ...


 
Where are the nova halogen bulbs made?


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## DM51 (Jan 5, 2009)

Apart from 3 posts briefly mentioning LED alternatives, this thread has discussed the question raised by the OP and concentrated on the topic of incandescent lamps. I'm moving it to the Incan section.


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## flashburn72 (Jan 5, 2009)

One of my first mods was a 3 cell bulb in a 4 cell config. I still use these 3.6v bulbs with 4 cells. Although I haven't tried a mag-num 3.6v bulb (or at least I dont think I have) I do know the xpr103 not to be confused with the kpr103 will overdrive well over the 3.6v to 6v. 
Use the search and you can find all sorts of threads with people running a 3.6v xenon bulb at 6v.
Now like I said I have only done this with the xpr103 bulb and getting the 6v into a 2d mag is going to require a battery adapter. But at that point I would just build a ROP. If you dont have the money for that then a 3d mag with 4c batteries is going to the cheapest way to go for a decent boost in performance. Or for the really stingy go get one of those 6v lanterns that they sell real cheap with the square battery and drop a xpr bulb into one of those total price less then 8 bucks and I would guess atleast 80 to a hundred lumens.
The hpr radio shack bulb is getting harder to find so if you find some buy them all. Also I may be wrong about this but I always thought that kpr denoted a krypton bulb and hpr and xpr denoted a xenon bulb.


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## Cydonia (Jan 5, 2009)

Eliminating the tail cap and internal bulb spring resistance of a Maglite (assuming one has the tools and inclination) is a good idea if you use the Maglite with krypton bulbs. 
All that resistance sitting in the springs bothers me so much that I do the solder braid fix on every Maglite that comes my way.


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## toolpig1 (Jan 6, 2009)

american lockpicker said:


> Where are the nova halogen bulbs made?


 
I examined the lamps and packaging closely, and the only location mentioned is Streamlight in Pennsylvania. The lamps are PR based and the only thing stamped in the metal is either NOVA-3 or NOVA-4.

The front of the package says, "Super Bright Nova Halogen Lamp". Also says, "Up to 400% brighter" and "Up to 400% more life". Unlike a stock krypton bulb that is perfectly round where it sits in the metal base, the glass portion of these lamps are pinched flat just above where they sit in the base. Also, the top of the glass portion comes to a point in a manner that reminds me of a soft serve ice cream cone (if that makes any sense). The literature inside the package says the lamps are designed for Streamlight halogen flashlights, but can be used to replace any PR based lamp. Plus, the warning that if you use these lamps in flashlights that exceed the number of specified battery cells, you will experience immediate lamp failure.


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## Mr Happy (Jan 6, 2009)

toolpig1 said:


> The front of the package says, "Super Bright Nova Halogen Lamp". Also says, "Up to 400% brighter" and "Up to 400% more life". Unlike a stock krypton bulb that is perfectly round where it sits in the metal base, the glass portion of these lamps are pinched flat just above where they sit in the base. Also, the top of the glass portion comes to a point in a manner that reminds me of a soft serve ice cream cone (if that makes any sense). The literature inside the package says the lamps are designed for Streamlight halogen flashlights, but can be used to replace any PR based lamp. Plus, the warning that if you use these lamps in flashlights that exceed the number of specified battery cells, you will experience immediate lamp failure.


I have experimented with a variety of PR base halogen flashlight bulbs obtainable from a local hardware store. I have found them comparable to xenon bulbs in brightness. One thing I have noticed is that the standard 4 cell halogen bulb tends to be rated at 5.2 V (HPR50) rather than 4.8 V (KPR113).

I can confirm the instaflash tendency. You over volt them at your peril.


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## BML (Dec 22, 2020)

I realise that this is an old thread but its the closest to what I'm looking for.
I just bought a bulb marked, "MaglLite Mag-Num Star II xenon bulb" When I switched it on instead of a simple beam of light it had a large black centre which makes the bulb useless to me. Is there a bulb that gives a clear beam?


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## xxo (Dec 22, 2020)

You should be able to adjust the focus by turning the head. If the focus doesn't change, make sure the switch assembly is not stuck and moves freely in and out when the cam on the reflector pushes on it. I had some trouble getting good focus with my old Mag from 1986 because the plastic bulb holder for the xenon bi-pin bulb did not seat down far enough.


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## 325addict (Dec 23, 2020)

Yes, your older Mag-Num star krypton bulbs are just... krypton bulbs, no xenon. These were just quite expensive, and they didn't deliver what they should deliver. They didn't make it long on the market, they were succeeded by the Mag-Num star Xenon. These are much better.




toolpig1 said:


> Question about these "xenon" lamps: I have a bunch of lamps that say "mag-num star krypton" from years ago. On the back of the packages, it says lamp no. MSA-3, it also says model no. LMSA 301. These lamps came one per package and included a metal spacer ring. The glass portion of the lamp is perfectly cylindrical and has round, bubble-like top. Are these lamps an earlier version of the "xenon" lamps you refer to?
> 
> I also have a bunch of standard "white-star krypton" lamps that came two per package. They appear different with a more typical tapered glass that comes to a point. These are definitely the same lamps that come in the standard incan Mags today.
> 
> ...


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## 325addict (Dec 23, 2020)

How many Ohms does it introduce / how many (milli)Volts do I loose in that spring? I never thought it was so bad... Of course losses are getting worse when operating at hgher current, and I never go beyond let's say the 2.77 Amps for a WA1274. And maybe it's good to have a bit of resistance: it prevents instaflashing the bulbs... or flashing bulbs that are a bit worn upon switching them on. Most of the time bulbs die at the moment you switch them on. 



Cydonia said:


> Eliminating the tail cap and internal bulb spring resistance of a Maglite (assuming one has the tools and inclination) is a good idea if you use the Maglite with krypton bulbs.
> All that resistance sitting in the springs bothers me so much that I do the solder braid fix on every Maglite that comes my way.


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## bykfixer (Jan 5, 2021)

The thing with using a 3 cell bulb with 4 cells is that the NIMH hold current a lot more steady so it stresses the light bulb. Especially if they haven't rested some after charging. The current of the alkaline cells will sag and not put so much stress on the bulb. 

Using a xenon bulb in a light that was built pre-krypton bulb days gives a drastic improvement. Replacing a krypton with one is noticeable. I use a 3 cell krypton in a 4C Maglite with alkalines with no issues at all. Using a Mag xenon I just didn't like the beam as much. It was brighter, but artifacts were more prominent.


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## Katherine Alicia (Jan 6, 2021)

quick question, I`v seen some of these bulbs myself (I think), on the packet it has a little diagram of how it replaces a regular PR bulb with this drop-in adaptor and a bi-pin bulb pushed into that.
can you buy just the bi-pin bulbs after that though or do you have to replace the whole thing?


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## xxo (Jan 6, 2021)

Katherine Alicia said:


> quick question, I`v seen some of these bulbs myself (I think), on the packet it has a little diagram of how it replaces a regular PR bulb with this drop-in adaptor and a bi-pin bulb pushed into that.
> can you buy just the bi-pin bulbs after that though or do you have to replace the whole thing?



I have only seen the bulbs sold with the bulb holder and collar.


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## Katherine Alicia (Jan 6, 2021)

I`v seen the 6v Maglite mag charger bi-pin halogen bulbs, I was just wondering if they would fit that holder?
this is one of them: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Maglite-...587247?hash=item3ff0d763af:g:1WcAAOSwDPtf44mn


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## bykfixer (Jan 6, 2021)

The legs of the magcharger bulb are spread farther apart than their xenon maglite counterparts.


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## Katherine Alicia (Jan 6, 2021)

Awww that`s a pity, Thanks anyway!


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## bykfixer (Jan 6, 2021)

I had a really hard time locating a bulb for my 6 volt Brinkmann Legend LX, a cross between a SureFire 6P, a minimag and a Streamlight Scorpion. But I found that Streamlight Twin Task TL3 bulbs work in that light. Yet those bulbs were between $5 and 6 each and at that time the Maglite xenon was about $4 so I just ended up buying a supply of those knowing I could use the adapters in some other lights someday. 

The G4 bulb holder may be able to hold a Magcharger bulb. Hopefully fivemega will chime in here with a yes or no.


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## Katherine Alicia (Jan 6, 2021)

that would be good, a PR 13.5 to G4 bulb holder, there`s quite a selection of G4 bulbs in existence so it would be nice to be able to use those in a maglite.


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## fivemega (Jan 12, 2021)

bykfixer said:


> The G4 bulb holder may be able to hold a Magcharger bulb. Hopefully fivemega will chime in here with a yes or no.


*M*gCharger bulb is a G4 base bulb.
BTW, works well with 5 NiMH cells.*


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