# Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin



## ernsanada (Sep 7, 2007)

I just received the Solar Force L603, 3 SSC from Waion

From Waion's Thread,

- UXO-bin SSC P4 LED x 3
- 16340 x 3 or CR123A x 4 (a battery extension tube included)
- OP metal reflector
- a free functional tail-cap switch assemble included: two output levels + flashing mode.

Fit and finish is excellent.

Type II Anodize is excellent.

I am having problems with the rear switch. It goes from high, low then dim. The light does not shut off, stays in dim mode.

The other switch does not work at all.

I am using AW's Protected RCR123's, the batteries fit with ample room. I have the light in the 3 RCR123 battery configuration.
































Uses 3, SSC U Bin.





















Comes with extra rear clickie and battery tube so you can run 4 CR123's.






Fits AW's Protected RCR123's with ample room.







--------------------------------------------------------------------

Left to right, Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin, Miller Mod's 3 X UV1J 3 Watt Luxeon, 2D Maglite, Pelican 7060






Left to right, Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin, Miller Mod's 3 X UV1J 3 Watt Luxeon, 2D Maglite, Pelican 7060







------------------------------------------------------------------------

These beam shots are taken with fully charged batteries. The Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin is using 3 AW's Protected RCR123's. The Miller Mod's 3 X UV1J 3 Watt 2D Maglite is using Radio Shack 2D 4500 mAh nimh rechargeable batteries. The Pelican 7060 is fully charged (18650 size).

I waited 2 minutes before taking lux readings from my Wavetek Meterman LM631 at 1 meter.

Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin - 2410 lux @ 1 meter.

Miller Mod's 3 X UV1J 3 Watt 2D Maglite - 4610 lux @ 1 meter.

Pelican 7060 - 10,850 lux @ 1 meter.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin @ 82"






Miller Mod's 3 X UV1J 3 Watt 2D Maglite @ 82"






Pelican 7060 @ 82"






Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin @ 82" Stepped down exposure.






Miller Mod's 3 X UV1J 3 Watt 2D Maglite @ 82" Stepped down exposure.






Pelican 7060 @ 82" Stepped down exposure.






Left, Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin. Right, Miller Mod's 3 X UV1J 3 Watt 2D Maglite @ 82"






Left, Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin. Right, Pelican 7060 @ 82"






Left, Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin. Right, Miller Mod's 3 X UV1J 3 Watt 2D Maglite @ 82" Stepped down exposure.






Left, Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin. Right, Pelican 7060 @ 82" Stepped down exposure.


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 7, 2007)

I finally got the momentary on, off. Twist on and off switch to work. The light is whole lot brighter.

I'm getting 2 different readings for the 2 different switches.

Charging batteries for new lux readings.


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 7, 2007)

Revised Meter Readings due to the momentary on off, twist on off switch having greater brightness.

These beam shots are taken with fully charged batteries. The Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin is using 3 AW's Protected RCR123's. The Miller Mod's 3 X UV1J 3 Watt 2D Maglite is using Radio Shack 2D 4500 mAh nimh rechargeable batteries. The Pelican 7060 is fully charged (18650 size).

I waited 2 minutes before taking lux readings from my Wavetek Meterman LM631 at 1 meter.

Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin (3 Way Switch) - 2410 lux @ 1 meter.

Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin (momentary on off, twist on off switch) 4080 lux @ 1 meter.

Miller Mod's 3 X UV1J 3 Watt 2D Maglite - 4610 lux @ 1 meter.

Pelican 7060 - 10,850 lux @ 1 meter.


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 7, 2007)

My 3 way switch stays on in the off position. The light is very dim.

I think I have a bad 3 way switch. I tried another switch, on off and the light works.

The momentary on off, twist on off works but it's intermittent. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't work.


----------



## cheapo (Sep 7, 2007)

will it work with 2 18650?


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 7, 2007)

cheapo said:


> will it work with 2 18650?




Sorry, I can't get any Protected 18650's to fit.


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 8, 2007)

Can you take some measurements on how big the AW protected RCR123A's are. Do you know if the silver ultrafire protected 16340s work in there?


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 8, 2007)

Hello FRIENDS! :wave: Flashlights are cool!

sorry my girlfriend is posting these comments.


----------



## vetkaw63 (Sep 8, 2007)

Ernsanada,
What driver does the Miller Mod's 3 X UV1J 3 Watt 2D Maglite use? What is the runtime?
Thanks,
Mike


----------



## martonic (Sep 8, 2007)

Thanks as always to Ernest for terrific photography and another fine review!

2 x 17670's fit, by using the extension tube intended for 4xCR123, but they do not have enough voltage to power it up.

My L603 came with two tailcaps and two tactical switches, both working. Waion said there is a problem with the three-mode switch and he has asked the manufacturer for a solution, but a replacement is not certain. (Note: the 3-way switch was billed as a "free extra").

The lux numbers, while not bad, do not tell the whole story of the L603. It has a large and very bright spill area, much more than you might expect from the deep conical reflectors. Outdoors at night it illuminates a large area. As is usual with LED's, the color depth is not as good as you get with an incan. However, it is still a very bright light with an appealing form factor and solid construction. :thumbsup:


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 8, 2007)

Do you know of the approximate lumens it's putting out? And if the silver protected Ultrafire's work in them?

Any idea what's driving the LEDs?


----------



## Olaf (Sep 8, 2007)

johnny13oi said:


> Do you know of the approximate lumens it's putting out? And if the silver protected Ultrafire's work in them?
> 
> Any idea what's driving the LEDs?




here are the specs for the lights power.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Solarforce-3-Le...yZ106987QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## john2551 (Sep 8, 2007)

Ernie,

This light will be perfect to compare against the upcoming Wolf-Eyes Thunder series & the ElektroLumens FireLion.

John


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 8, 2007)

Since the different levels capability is in which switch is used, I am guessing that the switch is where the driver is being housed?

Any info on whether the ultrafire silver protected 16340's work in the flashlight? I have read they are generally 2mm longer and might not fit into certain flashlights. How long are the AW protected RCR123A's so I can have an idea if the ultrafire's will work.


----------



## martonic (Sep 8, 2007)

AW protected RCR123A's are exactly 34 mm long, with a measurement error < 0.2 mm.


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 8, 2007)

vetkaw63 said:


> Ernsanada,
> What driver does the Miller Mod's 3 X UV1J 3 Watt 2D Maglite use? What is the runtime?
> Thanks,
> Mike




This is what Eric (Millermods) says about the light in his thread. "It will not be a parallel Lux configuration. It will be using 3 or 4 separate drivers integrated on one driver board. This offers optimal efficiency and power distribution."

Custom Maglite Tri/Quad Luxeon up to 12 watts from 1 to 2 NIMH D cells (9-12Ah)


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 8, 2007)

Is there enough room for an extra 6mm in length in the battery tube to accommodate longer batteries without the extension tube?


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 8, 2007)

johnny13oi said:


> Is there enough room for an extra 6mm in length in the battery tube to accommodate longer batteries without the extension tube?




This is the gap I get with 3 AW RCR123's in the battery tube. I measure 5.61mm from the battery end to the tube end.


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 8, 2007)

Wow thank you very much. Does the switch end allow for a little extra room? I know some do and some don't. If the spring can compress further than the sides that makes contact to the body of the flashlight then that will allow for a little extra room for the batteries also. I am just asking because 5.61 mm is really close to the 6 mm that I am trying to find. Thank you very much again for the picture and measurements.


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 8, 2007)

johnny13oi said:


> Wow thank you very much. Does the switch end allow for a little extra room? I know some do and some don't. If the spring can compress further than the sides that makes contact to the body of the flashlight then that will allow for a little extra room for the batteries also. I am just asking because 5.61 mm is really close to the 6 mm that I am trying to find. Thank you very much again for the picture and measurements.




I built up the battery to reach the top of the battery tube with tin foil. I put the foil on the 2nd and 3rd battery. The light turns on with the twistie switch.


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 8, 2007)

Thank you very much once again. Did you put it in so that it reaches the top or past the top a little?


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 8, 2007)

johnny13oi said:


> Thank you very much once again. Did you put it in so that it reaches the top or past the top a little?




I put the battery past the end, about 1mm higher. About where I think 6mm would be.


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 8, 2007)

Awesome, that is perfect. Even the answer I was hopeing to get. Thank you very much for this, as I don't have 16340 cells yet for the light but am looking for some cheap protected ones for it. One last question, does it also work with the multimode switch with the batteries raised to where you think the 6mm would be?


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 8, 2007)

johnny13oi said:


> Awesome, that is perfect. Even the answer I was hopeing to get. Thank you very much for this, as I don't have 16340 cells yet for the light but am looking for some cheap protected ones for it. One last question, does it also work with the multimode switch with the batteries raised to where you think the 6mm would be?



The multimode switch works the same as before with the battery height the same height as yours should be. As you have read in my other posts the switch is bad. It stays dimly lit in the off postion.


----------



## jasonsmaglites (Sep 9, 2007)

so basicly we should expect a one mode 500 lumen light?


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 9, 2007)

jasonsmaglites said:


> so basicly we should expect a one mode 500 lumen light?



If you get a bad switch like mine, I only have one mode.

I'm still working on trying to get another 3 way switch.


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 9, 2007)

Does it really output 500 lumens? The pictures seem to show that the Millermods 3 X 3W Lux puts out more light than the Solarforce. I should be getting one soon as well but have no cells to power it yet. =/


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 10, 2007)

johnny13oi said:


> Does it really output 500 lumens? The pictures seem to show that the Millermods 3 X 3W Lux puts out more light than the Solarforce. I should be getting one soon as well but have no cells to power it yet. =/




There looks like no quick fix on the switch so I will sending the light back.


----------



## john2551 (Sep 12, 2007)

martonic said:


> 2 x 17670's fit, by using the extension tube intended for 4xCR123, but they do not have enough voltage to power it up.


 
This seller states that it uses 2 x 17670:










http://cgi.ebay.com/NIB-SolarForce-...yZ106988QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Operated Voltage : 3-9V 
Operated by : 2x 17670 Rechargeable Battery


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 12, 2007)

Oh wow nice find, hey martonic, can you check to see if the two 17670's will power up the light with either of the switches? Thanks.


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 12, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> There looks like no quick fix on the switch so I will sending the light back.



I was able to change out the bad 3 way switch with a Lumapower M1 2 way switch. The M1 2 way switch goes from low to high then off. I checked with my light meter and there is not drop in brightess with the M1 2 way vs the momentary on off twist on off switch that came orginally with the light.

I'm not sure if I will send the light back.


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 12, 2007)

Could someone test to see if the flashlight will turn on with just two li-ion cells? And if it does turn on see if there is a difference in brightness?


----------



## martonic (Sep 14, 2007)

johnny13oi said:


> Oh wow nice find, hey martonic, can you check to see if the two 17670's will power up the light with either of the switches? Thanks.


It comes on but not brightly. I will try it again after a recharge. One of the batteries is a bit low. 

Even though I only have one mode (I got two identical tactical switches and no "3-way" switch) I like my L603 very much, running it on 3 Battery Station protected RCR123's. It's nice and bright and floody with a large hot area merging into a large bright spill area - without really sacrificing throw as it's so darn bright. The throw is not that of a spotlight like an MRV or Tiablo, but it's still good - excellent, even. The hot area is much larger than what you get out of those other lights - instead of seeing a little piece of something, lit up like Christmas, you see the entire car or tree or whatever - very useful. And the light fits well in my trouser pocket. 

The negatives are: no lanyard attachment point; and no real switch - it's basically a large "twisty" with a short rubberized protruberance at the tailcap. But it has a great ergonomic feel with flat edges for the fingers, and all in all, I like it very much. :thumbsup:


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 14, 2007)

martonic said:


> It comes on but not brightly. I will try it again after a recharge. One of the batteries is a bit low.
> 
> Even though I only have one mode (I got two identical tactical switches and no "3-way" switch) I like my L603 very much, running it on 3 Battery Station protected RCR123's. It's nice and bright and floody with a large hot area merging into a large bright spill area - without really sacrificing throw as it's so darn bright. The throw is not that of a spotlight like an MRV or Tiablo, but it's still good - excellent, even. The hot area is much larger than what you get out of those other lights - instead of seeing a little piece of something, lit up like Christmas, you see the entire car or tree or whatever - very useful. And the light fits well in my trouser pocket.
> 
> The negatives are: no lanyard attachment point; and no real switch - it's basically a large "twisty" with a short rubberized protruberance at the tailcap. But it has a great ergonomic feel with flat edges for the fingers, and all in all, I like it very much. :thumbsup:



Do you mean your no "3-way" switch is no good like mine?

I noticed on my defective switch, the 3 way was dimmer on high than the twistie.


----------



## martonic (Sep 14, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> Do you mean your no "3-way" switch is no good like mine?
> 
> I noticed on my defective switch, the 3 way was dimmer on high than the twistie.


 
No Ernie - mine actually landed with two identical tailcaps both with the "tactical" i.e. "Twisty" switch. I am going to order an M1 two-way switch for this like yours - that sounds super - thanks for figuring that out.


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 14, 2007)

martonic said:


> No Ernie - mine actually landed with two identical tailcaps both with the "tactical" i.e. "Twisty" switch. I am going to order an M1 two-way switch for this like yours - that sounds super - thanks for figuring that out.




I had to use a wavy washer from the 3 way switch to make it work. The switch would not work without it.

I also had to use the retaining (threaded washer) to hold eveything together.

I tried to take apart the twistie switch but I could not.


----------



## shakeylegs (Sep 14, 2007)

ernsanada,
Did you buy your M1 switch directly from Lumapower or from a dealer?


----------



## martonic (Sep 14, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> I had to use a wavy washer from the 3 way switch to make it work. The switch would not work without it.
> 
> I also had to use the retaining (threaded washer) to hold eveything together.
> 
> I tried to take apart the twistie switch but I could not.


Uh-oh, thanks for the heads up.


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 14, 2007)

shakeylegs said:


> ernsanada,
> Did you buy your M1 switch directly from Lumapower or from a dealer?



I got the 2 way switch from Lumapower. It was back when Lumapower was offering the SSC module for the M1.


----------



## HiltiHome (Sep 14, 2007)

Got my SolarForce-L603 today and there is the same issue with the multi-mode switch. It goes high,low,dim, but no position to turn it off.

The light is very noticeable dimmer, when used with the multi-mode switch. 

The momentary switch does not work reliable, the light flickers and the tactile feeling isn't that good. The travel is way to short.

I measured the current:

Multi-mode-switch 3xRCR123:
high: 260mA
low: 100mA
dim: 0,66mA

Multi-mode-switch 4xRCR123:
high: 920mA
low: 240mA
dim: 1,3mA

Tactical-switch 3xRCR123:
620mA

Tactical-switch 4xRCR123:
1350mA

Tactical-switch 3xCR123:
85mA

Tactical-switch 4xCR123:
400mA

Tactical-switch 2x17670
20mA


Warning: Do not use 4xRCR123 with tactical switch, the current is way to high.
The negative contact plate of my protected RCR123 new-style (short version) was deformed and pressed in by the high force from the tailcap spring.


The light appears to be direct driven, with the three LEDs in series.
Brightness control is all in the tailcap. The resistance between the negative spring and the retaining ring in the tailcap measured 35K-Ohm, that causes the light to shine dim, even when it is switched off.

I tried to unscrew the head, but broke my strap-wrench...

Would i buy it again: yes, out of curiosity...
Would i recommend it: no, not to Joe Sixpack, but it is a must have for flashaholics, just to find out how to mod it...


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 14, 2007)

HiltiHome,

In the dim position hold down the switch for about 2 seconds. The light goes into strobe, a very blinding strobe.

My other switch the momemtary switch has the same problems as yours.

I was lucky I had a Lumapower M1 2 way switch and was able to swap out the bad 3 way switch.

It seems there must be a lot of others out there that bought the light off ebay will have the same problems. I wonder if they ever heard of QC'ing the lights or sent them out with the known problems. :thumbsdow


----------



## HiltiHome (Sep 14, 2007)

Hi ernsanda,

the strobe works fine, although i have no use for it.

I also got a couple of Lumapower M1 switches on circuit boards, but the dia is to small to fit the SolarForce tailcap...

Anyway, the tailcap/switch issue doesn't border me to much, i will fix it someway.

What really concerns me,is that i could not separate the head from the body...


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 14, 2007)

So there is no way to separate the head from the body to put in a driver? KD is selling a new driver that could work with these flashlights perfectly powering them at 750ma. That is what I plan on doing if there is a way to separate the head to put a driver in. Still haven't received my light yet. =/


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 14, 2007)

johnny13oi said:


> So there is no way to separate the head from the body to put in a driver? KD is selling a new driver that could work with these flashlights perfectly powering them at 750ma. That is what I plan on doing if there is a way to separate the head to put a driver in. Still haven't received my light yet. =/



My head is glued on. 

I guess you could try heating and using a strap wrench to open up the head.


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 14, 2007)

Which RCR123 were you using? And how long are they in length? And was it the multimode tailcap or the momentary switch spring that damaged the battery? Thanks.



HiltiHome said:


> Got my SolarForce-L603 today and there is the same issue with the multi-mode switch. It goes high,low,dim, but no position to turn it off.
> 
> It's also very noticeable dimmer, when used with the multi-mode switch.
> 
> ...


----------



## shakeylegs (Sep 14, 2007)

Lumapower still has the 2 stage M1 switch - $8 shipped from the factory. I just ordered one from Ricky.


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 14, 2007)

This is the inside's of the problem 3 way switch.












Top, L606 3 Way Switch. Bottom, Lumapower M1 2 Way Switch






This is the order the switch needs to be put back.


----------



## jayke (Sep 14, 2007)

Thanks Ernsanada!

I just got the clicky to work also. I used an old Fenix L2P switch that I had laying around. Used a washer between the switch and retaining ring. Stretched the coil a bit and it works good as a 1 stage clicky. I am now going to use my 2 stage Lumapower switch and test it out. 

Great light but what a problem.
At least it's fun if you have tons of lights and spare parts (like most of us)

It definitely does not seem to be putting out as much light as I was hoping


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 14, 2007)

Wow the internals appear to be more than just simply direct driven?


----------



## HiltiHome (Sep 15, 2007)

Hi,

Bought me a heavy duty strap-wrench and finally managed it to separate the Head from the body.


The SF-L603 is not exactly direct-drive, as i mentioned before, there is a 2Ohm resistor in series with the LEDs.

Head and body





Resistor, rivet, "driver"





SolarForce head


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 15, 2007)

That is awesome, well .. not that it is directly driven but that you took it apart. How hard was it? Do you think I would be able to do this by hand? And what is a rivet? Looks like we can now fit a real driver in there.

Any does anyone know what that driver looking stuff in the switch of the multimode switch does? Maybe it can work properly now without the 2ohm resistor.


----------



## HiltiHome (Sep 15, 2007)

Hi Johnny,

Impossible to unscrew the head by hand. This one was the hardest to open light ever. You need a massive strap-wrench, mine is labeled BOA CONSTICTOR. I broke my Baby-BOA-CONSTRICTOR, that was strong enough to open every light in the past, including several glued Gladius lights. You also need a machining vise, to hold the body

The rivet is used to connect the resistor to the retaining ring.

My intention is to put a shark driver into the head and use 2x17670 cells to power it. Most likely the body has to be shortened a little to gain some space for the driver.
If i find a machining shop, the body will bored out to make a pair of 18650 fit.

To answer more questions: I used 4xAW-RCR123 cells 34mm long, steel bottom-plate, blue wrapper. The damage occurred after the momentary tailcap was screwed on.

The "driver looking board" in the multi-mode tailcap is a self powered brightness control. 
I call it crap, but read what the manufacturer replied to my email:

_
"Dear customer,

Thanks for your email.

We happy with your great communciation.

When you install the multifunction switch.

THe Z led will turn on immiedately (but very very dim mode) even you have not switch it on.

It is a new technology invented by our company to protect the Z led, this can increase the Led life due to,

The "Dim mode" help to warm up you Z led, aviod you click and immiedately inject too much power of electricity without any warn up. THis funcitons aviod you hurt the burn, when you use the multifuctions.

This new technology is our company's own techonology and going to be patient this method.

You will find that, the switch is well functions, with all functions provided, Weak, Strong and STROBE, so we are sure it is not a problem happended.

DOn't worry, we have test all flashlight + switch before sending, so quality is ensured.

As this technology is new, so its not suprised that many buyers inquries for this point.

Hope our explainations are clear and if you have any more quseitons, please email us we will answer you shortly.

Thanks for your purchase and we are happy to business with you.

Regards"
_ 

I've never heard of any need to pre-heat LEDs. It doesn't make any sense to me and is not mentioned in any LED data-sheet.
In case it makes sense, i don't want to drain batteries and loose brightness to gain longer LED life.

I guess this circuit was designed for incan lights...


----------



## johnny13oi (Sep 15, 2007)

Thanks for all the information. And not to my knowledge that there needs to be any warming up for any LED. I believe it is just a poorly designed switch and that they are trying to make it sound like a good thing. Are there any cheap drivers out there that will boost 2 li-ions to drive 3 SSCs with multimodes? I definitely plan on putting one in once I receive it. What I was thinking was 3 of the DX 5 mode AMC drivers driving each SSC off of one 18650 or 17670 and a spacer? Maybe sandpaper and dremel will help open the tube up enough for a 18650?


----------



## jirik_cz (Sep 15, 2007)

It is not a defect it is a feature!  Thanks for your experience guys, this can be good host for modding, otherwise it is just a rubbish.:thumbsdow


----------



## ernsanada (Sep 15, 2007)

HiltiHome said:


> The "Dim mode" help to warm up you Z led, aviod you click and immiedately inject too much power of electricity without any warn up. THis funcitons aviod you hurt the burn, when you use the multifuctions.
> 
> This new technology is our company's own techonology and going to be patient this method.
> 
> ...



Pure BS! From the makers of this light!


----------



## HiltiHome (Sep 15, 2007)

Hi Johnny,

The shark seems the way to go.

If you want to use the DX AMC boards, you need to open the head and wire each LED to it's own driver. You need three of them.

I was not able to access the LEDs. The head seems to bee glued for ever.


----------



## sims2k (Oct 1, 2007)

Anyone compared this light with the:
1. Kaidomain 3SSC
2. MX Cree 3 led

Almost bought this but I decided to find out if someone else has done a test on one. Glad I found this thread.


----------



## HiltiHome (Oct 6, 2007)

Take a look at my modding tutorial

German language, but the pic's are international...


----------



## vetkaw63 (Oct 6, 2007)

Very nice mod. How does it run? How long? Beam shots? English would be preferable. LOL.
Where did you get the switch?
Do you think it was worth the total cost?


----------



## shakeylegs (Oct 18, 2007)

I opened my Solarforce without excess force using two strap wrenches. Unlike HiltiHome's opening, the heat-sink seperrated from the head assembly, apparently stuck to the flashlight body. As I backed out the flashlight body, along came the heatsink. In the process, all emitters were sheared off. 
















The screw protruding from the heatsink fastens it to the reflector assembly seen below. 









The reflectors seem to be press fit into their own heatsink of sorts. BTW, the reflector assembly can only be removed through the front of the bezel opening.


----------



## HiltiHome (Oct 18, 2007)

vetkaw63 said:


> Very nice mod. How does it run? How long? Beam shots? English would be preferable. LOL.
> Where did you get the switch?
> Do you think it was worth the total cost?




Hi,

My SF-L603 got a Shark driver, adjusted to 1,1A input current. It runs 65min, till the protection of 2xAW17500 kicks in. This is more than i expected, cause the cells are rated 1100mAh.

I took the switch from this light. The PCB makes a perfect fit, but the spring is a little to long, so i replaced it with a gold-plated spring from a Lumapower-LM303. The switch itself is rated 1,5A, so no problem here.
Unnecessary to say that this is a bright one, but it also has a perfect beam.
I guess the reflector designer was inspirited by McGizmo reflectors.

For me it's very well worth the total costs, i would buy it again,
but be warned, this light is hard to open, with a good chance to destroy something.


----------



## vetkaw63 (Oct 18, 2007)

Thank You,
I may try this in the future.
Mike


----------



## ernsanada (Jan 7, 2008)

Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin, 3 RCR123's Low @ 32'







Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin, 3 RCR123's High @ 32'


----------

