# Fenix HL30 Review (2xAA)



## subwoofer (Jan 15, 2013)

In this review I will be looking at the HL30 headlamp. This is the production HL30 which has some updates/improvements compared to the pre-production model I have looked at previously. Every set of lights should include a headlamp, as only with this type of light do you have a mobile task light and both hands free to carry out the task.

_This is the third of a series of four detailed reviews of a selection of lights making up the ‘Totally Fenix Hunting Line-Up’. Included in the series will be the TK22 (Reviewed here), TK15 S2 (Reviewed here), HL30, and the TK75, all of which provide a rounded set of capabilities covering everything you would need while out hunting.

Of course each of these lights stands perfectly well on their own, so this review will be covering the light in its own right, and following the individual reviews there will be a follow-up review covering the hunting applications._









Initial Impressions:

A lot of popular compact headlamps are effectively a separate flashlight held in a rubber mount on a head-strap, so to see a compact ‘true’ headlamp is refreshing. The HL30 at first glance may be mistaken for a 3xAAA format light, but is instead a 2xAA which gives it nearly double the energy to use for greater output or longer runtime.

Simple design, friendly appearance, and easy to use - this is a light that everybody would find easy to pick up and use straight away.

The choice of a red beam or an excellent flood of white light makes this especially versatile. The simple but functional design, just works, from the moment you start to use it.



What is in the box:

The HL30 arrives in a hybrid cardboard/blister pack.






Included are the HL30, the head-strap components, instructions, and a spare o-ring.








Taking a closer look and looking inside:

The HL30 is made from a plastic housing with a metal insert, metal lens ring and a plastic TIR style lens.






Looking through the lens to the LED (XP-G R5)






To remove the battery door, the HL30 must be tilted completely forward on its mount. This frees the door from the plastic tabs that click into the angle adjustment teeth, and reveals the word ‘open’ next to a tab. Pulling this tab away from the main light, will allow the battery door to come off.






Revealing the battery compartment for the two AAs.






Looking straight into the open battery compartment you can see part of the metal fascia as a silver ring, and the battery connection terminals.

Also clearly visible here are the c-clip connectors on the back plate. These are for holding the head strap band, which is not currently attached.






The battery door and latch which is a simple pressure latch. As the angle adjuster for the headlamp effectively holds the battery door in place, this simple design is all that is required to secure the battery door.






Looking more closely at the engaged angle adjustment, you can see how the tab fits into the series of grooves. There are two of these and despite (or maybe due to) the simplicity of this design the functionality of this has been totally reliable.






Looking down onto the two controls, the power button and mode change switch.






The HL30 with head-strap fully assembled.








Modes and User Interface:

The HL30 has five white output levels and one red.

With the light off, each of the buttons will turn it on.

Pressing the power switch (from OFF) will turn the white light on, in the last used output level. Pressing the power switch again will turn it off.

Pressing the mode switch (from OFF) will turn the red light on. Pressing the mode switch again will turn it off.

If the red light is on, pressing the power switch will turn the white light on, in the last used output level.

If the white light is on, pressing the mode button will cycle through Low, Med, High, Turbo, Low etc.

If the white light is on, pressing and holding the mode button will first switch to the red light (pressing the mode button again switches back to white, or the power switch to turn it off), and if held in even longer will enter the SOS mode.



Batteries and output:

The HL30 runs on 2 x AA batteries. Either Lithium AAs (NOT li-ion), Alkaline AAs, or Ni-Mh rechargeable AAs can be used.

The testing was carried out with Eneloop LSD Ni-Mh cells.


_To measure actual output, I built an integrating sphere. See here for more detail. The sensor registers visible light only (so Infra-Red and Ultra-Violet will not be measured)._

*Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.*


Fenix HL30I.S. measured ANSI output LumensPWM frequency (Hz)Turbo2249090High1132000Medium500Low50Red20
 
As the HL30 utilises an electronic switch, there is parasitic drain to consider. I have reviewed and early pre-production sample of the HL30 and am pleased to see that in the production version, Fenix have significantly improved (i.e. reduced) the parasitic drain. This is now 0.1mA meaning it would take over 2 years for this to drain the batteries (this previous version was four times this).

The runtime graph was intended to capture the maximum output. This meant having to babysit the test as every 5 minutes it switches down to High and needs to be nudged back up to Turbo. After doing this, the following output trace is the result.








In The Lab

NEW for Winter 2012 _ANSI standards include maximum beam range. This is the distance at which the intensity of light from an emitter falls to 0.25lux (roughly the same as the lux from a full moon). This standard refers only to the peak beam range (a one dimensional quantity), so I am expanding on this and applying the same methodology across the entire width of the beam. From this data it is possible to plot a two-dimensional ‘beam range profile’ diagram which represents the shape of the illuminated area.

In order to accurately capture this information a test rig was constructed which allows a lux meter to be positioned 1m from the lens and a series of readings to be taken at various angles out from the centre line of the beam. As the rig defines a quadrant of a circle with a radius of 1m, all the readings are taken 1m from the lens, so measuring the true spherical light intensity. The rig was designed to minimise its influence on the readings with baffles added to shield the lux meter from possible reflections off the support members.

The distance of 1m was chosen as at this distance 1lux = 1 candela and the maximum beam range is then calculated as the SQRT(Candela/0.25) for each angle of emission.

In this plot, the calculated ANSI beam ranges are plotted as if viewed from above (for some lights there may also be a side view produced) using a CAD package to give the precise 'shape' of the beam._


Starting with the 5m range grid, the HL30’s beam profile shows the even spread of light without a significantly brighter hotspot.






Zooming out to the 50m grid and here, the HL30 is shown with two other Fenix lights that will be part of this series of reviews, and this clearly shows how the HL30 is a close range task light.








The beam

The indoor beamshot shows the wide even spill with hardly any hotspot. A really excellent close range wide soft beam.






At the same exposure setting, the red beam was not visible, so here the exposre has been significantly increased to show how the red beam looks.






Naturally such a floody beam has little reach, but does light up your immediate vicinity.








What it is really like to use…

The answer to title of this section (“What it is really like to use…”) is pretty much summed up simply by the fact that the HL30 has become one of my favourite lights.

It just works on so many levels and is one of the best performing, easy to use, comfortable and functional lights I have come across.

The main reasons for this are:

That excellent smooth flood beam.
Great combination of light weight but still having a good run time due to the 2xAAs powering it.
Totally stable and yet very comfortable to wear thanks to the inclusion of a top-strap. Having the top strap means that you don’t need to have the main strap all that tight and still have the HL30 stay firmly in place.
The choice of a red light for use when your eyes are dark adapted.

I thought the 5 minute timer on Turbo (which then switches down to high) would be annoying, but in general use, find the Turbo output far too bright to use anyway. I tend to use it on Medium or High, rarely ever needing Turbo at all. It is there if you need it, but I rarely do.

If I could change one thing, it would be to introduce a moonlight/firefly mode of sub-lumen white light output, but as the beam is very floody the low level is nearly there (nearly…).

The HL30 may not look flash, it may not turn heads, but it does everything it needs to, and does it very well.

The HL30 really has become my ‘go-to’ light –need I say more?


Test sample provided by Fenix for review.

If you enjoyed the review, please remember to 'Like' me on Facebook


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## subwoofer (Jan 15, 2013)

reserved....


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## Mr Floppy (Jan 15, 2013)

Thanks for the review. I'm still not sure about the timer. I've avoided most lights with a timer but on a headlamp, I can't see too much use for a constant turbo, especially when this uses optics for a floodier beam. Glad to see the flood, especially the use of the optics. 

PWM on the higher mode and constant current on the lower ones? Interesting concept. Anyone else do that?


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## whiteoakjoe (Jan 15, 2013)

Great review, I am pleased to read that the UI, is easy to understand and use, some 2 button systems are a pain. I really like the idea of switching out my HL21 for this light and although I have not been purchasing anything but XML's for a while, I think that this will be my next light. What did you think of the tint, your sample looks pretty good in the photos.


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## kj2 (Jan 16, 2013)

Thanks for the review. Had fun when I did my review on this light


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## fishndad (Jan 18, 2013)

Thank you, I just ordered this light and was inquiring about it just minutes beforen i found this review.
Im sure i will be pleased with my choice.


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## Ray Tseng (Jan 23, 2013)

Great review.

After a long hiatus from flashlights in general, bought this light.

One thing to note is that I loaded it with 2 alkaline duracells, the low is almost as bright as the medium and overly bright then what you need for a low.
Perhaps when the voltage drops this will adjust to a lower low, but something to keep in mind


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## klmmicro (Jan 26, 2013)

Thank you the superb review! I appreciate the way you cover the actual use of the unit and not just the technicals.

Just ordered one of these for use in the field while camp and hiking use. Also seems like a good choice for typing in bed so that I do not have to use house lighting. Sounds like a couple of sets of Eneloop's are about perfect for this rig. The 1.2 NiMH batteries are the recommended type per Fenix literature. Nice to know that it will work with Alkaline type as well if the need arises.


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## kj2 (Jan 26, 2013)

Am using this light more and more. These cold days is very handy to have your light on your head, and not in your hands


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## Lynx_Arc (Jan 26, 2013)

I'm curious, is it possible to not use the top headband with it or would it slip or tip too much without it?


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## subwoofer (Jan 26, 2013)

Lynx_Arc said:


> I'm curious, is it possible to not use the top headband with it or would it slip or tip too much without it?



The top band can be removed (or left off as it comes unassembled), and you could use it without, but it would need to be made tighter to stabilise it. I much prefer it with the top strap.


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## READYSETGO (Jan 26, 2013)

Thanks for the review - and an echo to the question above. I usually use my headlight with a cap and wonder if I would need the top strap.


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## Lynx_Arc (Jan 26, 2013)

subwoofer said:


> The top band can be removed (or left off as it comes unassembled), and you could use it without, but it would need to be made tighter to stabilise it. I much prefer it with the top strap.


As long as it will work, I have had other top strap lights and found that some the straps are too short and pop off my head in use when I lean forward.


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## klmmicro (Feb 7, 2013)

Lynx_Arc said:


> As long as it will work, I have had other top strap lights and found that some the straps are too short and pop off my head in use when I lean forward.



Well, I gave it a try today without the top strap and it stayed put just fine. I did tighten the band a little bit, but nothing that caused any discomfort. I just walked around the neighborhood some. No jogging or bouncing really. Light stayed where I wanted it. I think if I were getting serious on a trail, the top band would be a welcome addition.


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## Lynx_Arc (Feb 7, 2013)

klmmicro said:


> Well, I gave it a try today without the top strap and it stayed put just fine. I did tighten the band a little bit, but nothing that caused any discomfort. I just walked around the neighborhood some. No jogging or bouncing really. Light stayed where I wanted it. I think if I were getting serious on a trail, the top band would be a welcome addition.


Sounds like it will do fine then as I don't plan on doing any jumping jacks or mountain climbing I will mostly be using it around the house with an occasional trip out to the garage or to take the trash to the curb. I sometimes put my headlamp on a dozen times a day for just a few minutes so I can be hands free and not having to fumble with the top strap is a good thing.


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## cheaperrooter (Oct 3, 2013)

1) Does the 5 min turbo timer start over if I cycle the light on and off, will the 5 mins start AGAIN? And will this cause any overheating damage?

2) Is it just ME, or does anyone else see a scam here!!!! I love Fenix, own many, many of them, but come on here, seems like a case of *EXTREME false advertising.* I mean it says: 
*Turbo: 200 lumens / 1h 40min
High: 100 lumens / 4h 30min 

But in essence, its only a FIVE min runtime, period, end of story in TURBO. The OTHER 1 hour and 35 mins is in HIGH. That in NO WAY equates to a 1hr 40 min TURBO mode!!!!!!! That equates to a 5 minute turbo mode. I mean heck, if thats the case, just keep timing each mode out until you hit the lowes setting and then announce that the TURBO mode lasts for 50 hours.....cause it downshifts to low mode after 6 mins....thats the most absurd thing i think i have ever heard in my life. 

It matters to me as I JUST ordered FOUR of these and they are on the way, based upon a 1HOUR and 40 MINUTE turbo run time. Don't know about the rest of you, but I ALWAYS USE TURBO.....if I wanted a 2 lumen night light I'd go to Kmart.

3) You mean to tell me that 5 lousy mins in turbo takes aways 3 full hours and 30 mins from it being on HIGH???? If it downshifts to high after 5 mins, then I should have the remainder of the 4 hour and 30 min stated high runtime, minus whatever extra juice it burned up being in turbo for a losuy 5 mins....and I can't imagine that being 3 1/2 hours worth.*


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## subwoofer (Oct 4, 2013)

cheaperrooter said:


> 1) Does the 5 min turbo timer start over if I cycle the light on and off, will the 5 mins start AGAIN? And will this cause any overheating damage?
> 
> 2) Is it just ME, or does anyone else see a scam here!!!! I love Fenix, own many, many of them, but come on here, seems like a case of *EXTREME false advertising.* I mean it says:
> *Turbo: 200 lumens / 1h 40min
> ...




1) I brought mine with me to work today to test this. Found the batteries were flat! I am pretty confident though that the timer will be reset as when trying it out for various tests, every time I switched it into turbo it would run for 5 minutes regardless of what I had been doing.

Overheating will depend on the ambient temperature, and if it gets some sort of cooling airflow (just form you moving about or being outside). If you wrap it in a cloth and keep it running on turbo it might overheat.

2) It is a bugbear for me that Fenix don't let the Turbo mode stay on. The lights can handle it. It is a bit like laws that make everyone follow the same restriction for the safety of a few idiots!

I would say that in my use where I am working with my hands or at close ranges, Turbo is too bright. I use it mostly on Medium and only sometimes on High. Turbo use for me is restricted to when I am walking outside and want to see further ahead.

3) Not sure where you got that from. As far as I am concerned, 5 mins on turbo should leave most of the stated High runtime.


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## klmmicro (Oct 4, 2013)

cheaperrooter said:


> 1) Does the 5 min turbo timer start over if I cycle the light on and off, will the 5 mins start AGAIN? And will this cause any overheating damage?
> 
> 2) Is it just ME, or does anyone else see a scam here!!!! I love Fenix, own many, many of them, but come on here, seems like a case of *EXTREME false advertising.* I mean it says:
> *Turbo: 200 lumens / 1h 40min
> ...



For your first point, Turbo has a 5 minute timer that is reset when you hit the mode button again. IE, you put the light into Turbo and it stays in that mode for 5 minutes. After that, it cycles down to High. If you hit the mode button again, you are back in turbo. You can do this until the batteries are drained. This means that you are NOT limited to 5 sum total minutes, but 5 minutes per time you enter Turbo mode. While this is not very convenient, it does mean that you can technically run the light in turbo till the batteries are drained. I have done the mode "bumping" like this to see what sort of battery life I could expect. During that personal test of my HL-30, the emitter got quite hot and I did start to get concerned after about a half hour of this. I would not run it on back to back Turbo sessions unless I absolutely had to.

This brings up your second point...if one continues to put the unit into Turbo mode, an hour and a half on fully charged Eneloops would be about as far as it will go. That is about what I got, though the inconvenience of having to reach up and hit the mode button is a bit of a drag. I have done some night hikes with the lamp and in High, mine gets right at 4 hours. It might be able to eek out another 30 on medium, but that would be a stretch. It could be that my cells are a little older with about 250 cycles on them. A fresh set might reach their advertised times. I consider my HL-30 to be a headlamp that is designed to run at 100 LM with a few bursts of 200 LM when needed. If used this way, a set of cells offer enough service life to make it rather useful.


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## cheaperrooter (Oct 4, 2013)

Ok, well, maybe so. Still....its a crazy way of figuring to say the least. And that brings up other questions. If the 1 hour and 40 mins is based upon 5 mins in turbo and the rest in high, then at a MINIMUM, the stated run time for turbo should be based SOLELY upon how long it WOULD HAVE LASTED IF THERE WAS NOT TIMER. So if 1hr40mins INCLUDES 1hr35mins in high mode....we STILL don't know exactly how long turbo mode would last if cycled on and off repeatedly....but whatever that time is, THAT should be the stated run time for turbo, as if there was no timer....to include run times of ANY mode that includes the run time of a lower setting because it downshifts....is just plain ole STUPID. At least, in my humble opinion....


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## subwoofer (Oct 4, 2013)

cheaperrooter said:


> we STILL don't know exactly how long turbo mode would last if cycled on and off repeatedly....but whatever that time is, THAT should be the stated run time for turbo, as if there was no timer



Yes we do. Look at my runtime graph in the review. I reset to turbo every time it down-shifted.


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## klmmicro (Oct 4, 2013)

The 1 hour 40 minutes is not based on your criteria. It is based on running the lamp on Turbo till the cells are drained. You keep bringing up "Turbo for 5 minutes and the rest on high". This in NOT what the run time is based on. My run time is based on continually bumping the unit back in to Turbo after each kickdown.

The run time under your criteria (Turbo for 5 and the rest on High) IS over 4 hours, and not by any literature...but while using my actual HL-30.


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## cheaperrooter (Oct 4, 2013)

My point is simply I shouldn't HAVE to go through all this work to find this out. You are a VERY RARE cookie indeed. Few people have the skill to do what you did with your review. MOST people just don't have the knowledge to do such tests....and why should they, that's why we just buy Fenix, cuz THEY went through all that stuff. I am not attacking, nor even, to be honest, care about your review. Why? Because, quite frankly, it's WAY OVER MY HEAD. I don't have a CLUE what you're really talking about and few really do. I just want to know a simple question while hiking around unfamiliar terrain at night. How dang long will my light last in turbo mode? The rest.....is far too much investigative work to answer a simple question that Fenix could just answer simply. Come on, you need to do what you did to get the answers you got. The other 99.9999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999% of the world SHOULD be able to just rely on what the manfaturer tells us


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## cheaperrooter (Oct 4, 2013)

And please, what EXACTLY is the red light supposed to be used for? I haven't a clue....


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## cheaperrooter (Oct 4, 2013)

Actually, I got your review mixed up with another review i was reading about the Fenix ARE-C1 charger. Yours was not that hard to follow.


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## klmmicro (Oct 4, 2013)

Simple answer, the run time in Turbo is 1.5 hours. In High it is a little over 4 hours. Not too much skill required to hit the mode button every 5 minutes with a stopwatch running, but it is annoying. In essence, with the HL-30, you have a 100 LM light that will provide you 4 hours of run time. If you use Turbo mode to get 200 LM, you will reduce that run time but can still expect to get AT LEAST 1.5 hours.

Fenix answers the question perfectly. They tell you in the literature that the light will run in Turbo mode for 1 hour 40 minutes. They are pretty dang close with that assessment. The investigative work that the OP and I have done was for our own verification. Both of us have shared our findings which back up the Fenix literature to within 10 minutes. You can do with what we have shared, what you wish. Ignore it, misunderstand it or misconstrue it...but that does not change the fact that the data is *published by the manufacturer* AND verified by at least two separate unaffiliated entities is available and correct.

The red light is simply another emitter. Red light is touted to help preserve your night vision, though that is a disputed claim. I do not use it.


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## cheaperrooter (Oct 4, 2013)

Hey!!!! We agreed on something. The red light is useless


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## subwoofer (Oct 5, 2013)

cheaperrooter said:


> The red light is useless



I disagree. Though I too know that simply by being red it does not protect dark adapted vision, however it does help and is a very low level output.

One particular application is when out hunting at night as red light is far less visible (in some cases invisible) to the prey, so you can have it on without them seeing you.

So definitely NOT useless, but perhaps of limited use to some.


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## klmmicro (Oct 5, 2013)

Thank you SubWoofer. That is what I actually meant. I simply have not found a use for the red emitter in my journeys, YET. Might someday.


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## Lynx_Arc (Oct 5, 2013)

I see they list runtimes of the white LED on it but not on the red LED. I wonder if it gets too weak to light up the white LED at the lowest level will it still light the red one up.


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## zzuiram (Oct 8, 2013)

What about waterproof of this headlamp? Good sealed?


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## STiFTW (Oct 8, 2013)

I bought this light for working on my car (especially underneath). My battery run times have not been all that fantastic with some Eneloop XX cells, I may need to do a refresh cycle on them and try again. Nice review, and for the record I find the drop down / 5 min timer really annoying.


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## subwoofer (Oct 9, 2013)

STiFTW said:


> I bought this light for working on my car (especially underneath). My battery run times have not been all that fantastic with some Eneloop XX cells, I may need to do a refresh cycle on them and try again. Nice review, and for the record I find the drop down / 5 min timer really annoying.



With the XXs you should have a good runtime; does your charger allow for a capacity test?

If you are mainly working under a car, Turbo would be far too bright to use at that sort of distance, so hopefully the 5min step down should not affect you too much for your primary use.


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## merc240d (Nov 7, 2013)

Just got a HL30 and have found the buckles slide on the strap after adjusting. Any way to keep them adjusted? I can think of using a safety pin through the straps to tie them together. Any other ideas or am I just not seeing the proper assembly?


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## subwoofer (Nov 8, 2013)

Did you assemble them properly? I have not had this issue and use the HL30 almost daily.


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## merc240d (Nov 9, 2013)

The bands as packed are pre-looped with the molded plastic loops and buckles. It seems that it can only be assembled to the "c" hooks only two ways. I chose to have the manufacturers name right side orientation. The second way would be name upside down, but it would still produce the same net effect on the adjustability of the strap. Looking at the pictures in the review I noticed that you assembled the band with the name upside down. I don't see this as being any different overall. I could be wrong , so I'm going to try reversing the band and fiddling a little more. It is the end loop that is sliding along the strap as the tension is applied.


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## merc240d (Nov 14, 2013)

I've had my HL30 start to flicker after just a few hours of use on medium. Am I seeing the battery going dead? What should I look at? How does the HL30 handle a diminishing battery? Do I need to go to low?


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## subwoofer (Nov 15, 2013)

merc240d said:


> I've had my HL30 start to flicker after just a few hours of use on medium. Am I seeing the battery going dead? What should I look at? How does the HL30 handle a diminishing battery? Do I need to go to low?



Both Hl30's I have automatically step down as the cells become depleted. Not being able to get Turbo is the first sign of not much runtime being left. Flickering is either dirty contacts or a faulty unit. Clean the contacts and try some new or freshly charged AAs


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## Ralph_S (Dec 31, 2013)

merc240d said:


> The bands as packed are pre-looped with the molded plastic loops and buckles. It seems that it can only be assembled to the "c" hooks only two ways. I chose to have the manufacturers name right side orientation. The second way would be name upside down, but it would still produce the same net effect on the adjustability of the strap. Looking at the pictures in the review I noticed that you assembled the band with the name upside down. I don't see this as being any different overall. I could be wrong , so I'm going to try reversing the band and fiddling a little more. It is the end loop that is sliding along the strap as the tension is applied.



The main headband (around the side of your head) can be attached in more than two plausible ways, if you include turning the name up-side down. If you take the main headband off the light, and move the single buckle and double buckle away from each other, you can see that the two buckles cause the strap to make an S-shaped curve that results in two loops of elastic. In use, one of the loops of elastic is enlarged and the other loop of elastic is pulled flat. The strap should make a 180-degree turn at the single buckle and go approximately straight through the double buckle. From your description, you have done the reverse, making the strap do a 180-degree turn at the double buckle and go straight through the single buckle. 

subwoofer: Thanks for the review. I especially liked the run-time graph and explanation for Turbo.
I think the image 10HL30assembled-.jpg in post #1 shows the incorrect headband attachment that merc240d probably used, and that I used for a while. I hope the image can be changed. You must have corrected the attachment when wearing the headlamp, since you didn't have problems with slipping of the buckles.


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## subwoofer (Dec 31, 2013)

Ralph_S said:


> subwoofer: Thanks for the review. I especially liked the run-time graph and explanation for Turbo.
> I think the image 10HL30assembled-.jpg in post #1 shows the incorrect headband attachment that merc240d probably used, and that I used for a while. I hope the image can be changed. You must have corrected the attachment when wearing the headlamp, since you didn't have problems with slipping of the buckles.



When I assembled the HL30 I am sure I replicated the way it was shown in the instruction manual photos, but this was some time ago.

I have also previously reviewed the HL30 pre-production unit here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?336463-Fenix-HL30-pre-production-Review

In which the headband was configured differently.

I'll have a look at both and compare them.


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## D6859 (Jan 10, 2014)

I ordered one from eBay and now I'm looking forward to get it from post (unfortunately, I can't see any tracking information yet). There was a question about waterproofness, which I would like to have an answer too. I saw a video where the light was sunk into a bucket full of water but it was kept in there for just a few secs. So it really is IPX6 and I can use it in rain (it's been raining A LOT here) without worrying?

Oh, and thanks for the great review!


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## kj2 (Jan 11, 2014)

D6859 said:


> I ordered one from eBay and now I'm looking forward to get it from post (unfortunately, I can't see any tracking information yet). There was a question about waterproofness, which I would like to have an answer too. I saw a video where the light was sunk into a bucket full of water but it was kept in there for just a few secs. So it really is IPX6 and I can use it in rain (it's been raining A LOT here) without worrying?
> 
> Oh, and thanks for the great review!


It will handle heavy rain with no problem.


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## D6859 (Jan 24, 2014)

Thanks  After I opened it I saw it should handle the rain (actually it has started snowing finally). 

I got mine from the post office this friday ( shipping took less than 3 weeks!  ). My first impression was that the headlamp is small, but feels quite heavy with two Eneloops in it. This combined with the fact that it doesn't have separate battery compartment makes my neck get tired of holding the weight after about an hour of use. That migh be due to a little flu I have now but I have to mention that my neck gets fast tired of holding the weight of an old 3AAA Petzl too. Maybe separate battery pack would suit me better.

Anyway, I've been testing the headlamp indoors this evening. Comparing to my Olight H15 Wave which I've been using a year now, I prefer HL30's tint and it's floodier red light and the ability to turn red on without going through white first. I wouldn't mind though if pressing the power button on red mode first turned the light off and second press on. Flashing the turbo on accidentally after using the red light kind of ruins the idea of using the red light in first place. I can't test the spill patterns for comparision now, but I try get out tomorrow evening to walk outdoors. 

I like having four brightness levels, but I would also like to have lower low level (iirc someone mentioned that the red light might be intended for that). Low is more than enough for moving in a dark apartment and med enough for doing the dishes or something that needs concentration. I think I'll leave max and turbo outdoors. 

After quick testing I like this headlamp but the unbalanced weight might be problem for me.


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## subwoofer (Jan 26, 2014)

D6859 said:


> My first impression was that the headlamp is small, but feels quite heavy with two Eneloops in it. This combined with the fact that it doesn't have separate battery compartment makes my neck get tired of holding the weight after about an hour of use. That migh be due to a little flu I have now but I have to mention that my neck gets fast tired of holding the weight of an old 3AAA Petzl too. Maybe separate battery pack would suit me better.
> .....
> After quick testing I like this headlamp but the unbalanced weight might be problem for me.



I'm very surprised to hear your neck got tired after an hour. I've regularly worn this for 4 hour stints or more and not even noticed it.

Do you mind posting your height/weight/build information and if you have any neck injuries.

Compared to wearing a motorcycle helmet, or even a bicycle helmet, the HL30 is barely noticeable. If you want a headlamp with a separate battery pack most designs will either still have the pack on the headband, but at the back (and it will be more than 2xAA) or if the pack is belt mounted, the lamp unit itself is likely to be bigger and heavier.


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## D6859 (Jan 28, 2014)

subwoofer said:


> I'm very surprised to hear your neck got tired after an hour. I've regularly worn this for 4 hour stints or more and not even noticed it.
> 
> Do you mind posting your height/weight/build information and if you have any neck injuries.
> 
> Compared to wearing a motorcycle helmet, or even a bicycle helmet, the HL30 is barely noticeable. If you want a headlamp with a separate battery pack most designs will either still have the pack on the headband, but at the back (and it will be more than 2xAA) or if the pack is belt mounted, the lamp unit itself is likely to be bigger and heavier.



I'm average height and weight with no known neck injuries. I think at the moment my shoulders and back are just so cramped that it affects my neck. Also I've been grinding my teeth when sleeping which gives me headaches. Thus, placing ~120g lamp unit on my forehead makes me feel uncomfortable. I think all I need is streching and a massage (and a 2 week holiday). At least this gives me a good reasons to start streching daily 

I haven't had problems wearing my Olight H15 even though it's almost equal in weight (with 4AAA Eneloops), but it has the battery pack at the back. Now, concentrating on the weight, I think its weight is not balanced neither, but it has less weight on front letting my neck rest. When ordering HL30, I considered HP01 with battery pack at back, but after reading a review I considered it too throwy. If the weight becomes a problem I must reconsider. 

Btw, my post didn't get through first time so I went out to test the light. I like it. I especially enjoy the tint in snowy white forest compared to Olight H15 and S15


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## ChrisGarrett (Feb 4, 2014)

I've got an HL30 and it's as light as a feather at just over 5.02oz (141.8g) with two fully charged Eneloop Gen. 2s.

The Eneloops are almost an ounce (28.39g) each, at ~26g.

I guess if you wanted to shave a few grams, due to aches and pains, you could use some Energizer Lithium L91 AAs. They're about 1/3 lighter than other typical AA batteries.

Chris


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## Aahhyes68 (Feb 8, 2014)

Sub, Is this still your favorite headlamp ? Is there another model out there you you are eyeballing that might replace the HL30 ??


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## subwoofer (Feb 10, 2014)

Aahhyes68 said:


> Sub, Is this still your favorite headlamp ? Is there another model out there you you are eyeballing that might replace the HL30 ??



Despite having many other great headlamps, the HL30 is still getting the most use, so yes I would say it is still my favourite EDH (Every day headlamp)


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## Aahhyes68 (Feb 10, 2014)

subwoofer said:


> Despite having many other great headlamps, the HL30 is still getting the most use, so yes I would say it is still my favourite EDH (Every day headlamp)



Thanks for the response. I'll take that as a "Go" for me to order one then.


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## elloco999 (Apr 2, 2014)

Thanks for this great review Subwoofer. Especially your description of actual use of the headlamp is of great value to me.

I'm in the market for a new headlamp and so far the HL30 seems to be the best lamp for me.


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## RoadKingMoe (Aug 2, 2014)

FWIW, the HL30 is no longer on Fenix's web site under head lamps. Looks like the only 2xAA choice is now the HP01. Amazon still has some HL30 in stock.


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## Labrador72 (Aug 2, 2014)

RoadKingMoe said:


> FWIW, the HL30 is no longer on Fenix's web site under head lamps. Looks like the only 2xAA choice is now the HP01. Amazon still has some HL30 in stock.



The HL30 is still listed on the Fenix website 
http://www.fenixlight.com/ProductSeries.aspx?cid=2&tid=27


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## RoadKingMoe (Aug 2, 2014)

Labrador72 said:


> The HL30 is still listed on the Fenix website
> http://www.fenixlight.com/ProductSeries.aspx?cid=2&tid=27



I am happy to stand corrected.  I was looking at another website I thought was Fenix's. Thank you!


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## Labrador72 (Aug 3, 2014)

If it was one the main Fenix importers or distributors, the fact that it was removed from their site may still mean it's been discontinued so you were probably right. 
I think Fenix keep their products on their site the longest, probably till they have stocks that haven't been distributed - just an assumption.


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## RoadKingMoe (Aug 3, 2014)

That's good to know, thanks. I went ahead and grabbed a couple now for primitive camping.

Many thanks also to subwoofer for the excellent review!


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## subwoofer (Aug 3, 2014)

I still really rate the HL30 and would happily recommend it.


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## 9watts (Nov 20, 2014)

subwoofer said:


> Both Hl30's I have automatically step down as the cells become depleted. Not being able to get Turbo is the first sign of not much runtime being left.


I was surprised to notice that the turbo option, which I don't think I'll need much, cut out below 1.29V. I tried it with two Eneloop XX/2400mAh at 1.29V and the Turbo option worked; two at 1.27V and no Turbo. Does that sound right? 

Also I'm having a devil of a time opening the battery compartment. I appreciated your tips on how to do it, they were more helpful than the instructions provided with the headlamp, but without a little screwdriver I'm finding it impossible to pry the thing open. Has anyone else had this problem or figured out a good workaround?

Thanks very much.


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## subwoofer (Nov 21, 2014)

9watts said:


> I was surprised to notice that the turbo option, which I don't think I'll need much, cut out below 1.29V. I tried it with two Eneloop XX/2400mAh at 1.29V and the Turbo option worked; two at 1.27V and no Turbo. Does that sound right?
> 
> Also I'm having a devil of a time opening the battery compartment. I appreciated your tips on how to do it, they were more helpful than the instructions provided with the headlamp, but without a little screwdriver I'm finding it impossible to pry the thing open. Has anyone else had this problem or figured out a good workaround?
> 
> Thanks very much.



What charger are you using for the Eneloops and how are you measuring the voltage (in the HL30 or out)?

Remember that in-use, the voltage will sag significantly, especially on Turbo. It will be this 'in-use' voltage that matters rather than resting cell voltage. The voltage sag depends on cell capacity, state of charge and cell age.

I don't have any trouble opening the battery compartment, but have a combination of relatively 'fine' IT workers hands, and a grip of iron (even if I do say so myself). Despite having a desk job, I have always had a strong grip and at the archery club am always the one asked to pull stubborn arrows out of the target when no one else can. I've said that as my own experience may not be appropriate for you.

If you have found you need a small pry tool to open the back and it is working for you then stick with it. You might even find the plastic bit at the rear of the headband can be used.


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## 9watts (Nov 21, 2014)

I have a charger I like very much, but it is now going on twelve years old. A QuickCharger by C.Crane. It has a digital readout and a battery level testing function. I have been wondering if/when I might need to replace it since I spend so much time with AA batteries, always test voltages of 'dead' batteries and charge only like voltage levels together. 
Do you have a recommendation?

This is the successor model. 
http://www.ccrane.com/!e1qnhirtQO3GRucvXVnxtA!/CC-Quick-Charger-2-NiMH-Battery-Charger-and-Tester

And thanks for the note about opening. I just wasn't sure if I was missing anything or liable to screw something up with my screwdriver method.

Oh, and I'm measuring the voltage by plopping the batteries individually back into the charger.


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## Lynx_Arc (Nov 22, 2014)

I was looking at the HL30 lately and the HL50 and one thing I notice is that the HL50 appears to have better runtime at the medium level output than the HL30 does. You would think the HL30 would have over twice the runtime at a similar output as the HL50 if the 50 uses one AA vs 2AA for the HL30. The HL30 lists output (medium) at 45 lumens for about 10.5 hours while the HL50 lists 55 lumens for 6.3 hours. Either one or both headlamps are off in ratings or the design or the LED emitter difference is making this difference. I am interested mainly because I use a headlamp sometimes for 3-5 hours on/off at a time and am currently using an old rayovac 1AA headlamp about 30ish lumens (luxeon 1) and runtime about 1.5+ hours off rayovac hybrid AAs. I think for close up work 100+ lumens is overkill for me it is nice for throwing out there beyond a few feet but I rarely need more than 3-4 feet of throw. Maybe when they update this headlamp to a G2 LED and perhaps tweak the circuit a little it will be seemingly as efficient as the HL50 is.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 4, 2014)

Well I just ordered one. Under 33 bucks shipped so rolled the dice. Have not purchased a headlamp in some years. I really like my HL20 despite the fact the diffuser went flying into oblivion during a snow blower incident. I have dropped and abused that headlamp a bunch. Never had an issue with water proofing. My H502s rock as well. Hope this works out as well. Guessing down the road I will be looking for a 4xAA headlamp.


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## edog1955 (Mar 9, 2015)

Ray Tseng said:


> Great review.
> 
> "One thing to note is that I loaded it with 2 alkaline duracells, the low is almost as bright as the medium and overly bright then what you need for a low.
> Perhaps when the voltage drops this will adjust to a lower low, but something to keep in mind"[/QUOTE
> ...


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## darklord (Jul 25, 2015)

I know it's a few years since this (excellent) review, but as there is a new '2015' version of this lamp out, I thought it still relevant to ask a couple of questions:

* subwoofer says he used EneloopLSD Ni-Mh batteries for the test - what was the capacity of these cells?

* the runtimes Fenix state are what? - total burn-time, or the actual regulated burn-time? If it's total burn-time, what percentage of say, medium, (50 lumens 14hrs for the new 2015 model) is regulated?

For me, optimum burn-time at constant brightness is the number one criteria. Closely followed by an all-round diffuse beam


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## subwoofer (Jul 25, 2015)

darklord said:


> I know it's a few years since this (excellent) review, but as there is a new '2015' version of this lamp out, I thought it still relevant to ask a couple of questions:
> 
> * subwoofer says he used EneloopLSD Ni-Mh batteries for the test - what was the capacity of these cells?
> 
> ...



They are the 1900mAh Eneloops.

As per ANSI standards, the runtimes are total runtime with cut off set for when the output drops to 10% of the ANSI output (measured at 30s from switch on).

To answer the question of how much of this full runtime is regulated requires more runtime graphs for each output. Not sure if anyone has done that. I generally only choose the highest output mode as I don't have time to do runtime traces of the other modes.

I still use the HL30 regularly.


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## darklord (Sep 16, 2015)

Sorry to be late in thanking you for the reply, subwoofer (must see if there's some email alert/notification thing here..I'm rather forgetful of logging in regularly!)

I was interested in this lamp as your report rather sold me on it!... one of your favourite lamps is saying something, and the diffuse beam could be right up my street (much more real-life useful than throwers, imho).

I'm currently using a Princetontec Quad - 4 ultrabright 5mm leds, an amazingly bright output if slightly blue-ish, and a generally wide, diffuse beam - although there is a kind of hotspot which gives it the semblance of a little throw into the bargain. But to me the most amazing thing is the 10hr regulated output on medium setting (which I'd guess is about 40-50 lumens?). I've tested this regulated output in real-life use, caving, and it lives up to its claim. It's a rather high performer for a 3 x AAA headlamp, although I'm being subjective and have no objective measurements /data to substantiate that. Oh and it's IPX7 waterproof, too.

Nevertheless, I'm drawn to the HL30 and curious to try one - which I would do if I thought I'd get anywhere near the Quad's wonderful regulated runtime on medium! 

So I thought I'd ask the sage! But in the absence of any data, looks like I'll have to put my hand in my pocket and just give it a whirl. 

p.s. I also have Princetonetec Corona which surpasses the Quad for beauty of diffuse-ness, although I'm not convinced it gives any longer runtime for the same level of output from 3 x AA. It also has the switch from hell which virtually breaks your joints trying to operate the darned thing. Possibly the worst headlamp switch ever conceived.

p.p.s. this isn't an advert for PT! My all time favourite is my little Fenix L1D, still going strong after 7 years hard use, including being dropped down a 50m shaft, being washed down a further 10m shaft, and lying submerged in a cave streambed for 2 weeks. Not bad for durability, I thought!


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## subwoofer (Sep 17, 2015)

I haven't carried out a runtime for the lower levels, but they are all regulated. This is obvious in the way it steps down one level once the current one cannot be maintained, and I've experienced this on all levels (apart from the lowest as it has nowhere to go). Even once the white light goes out, you can still use the red.

Unfortunately time constraints will not allow me to carry out the runtime logging of lower levels. Even now, the HL30 is still my most used headlamp.

EDIT: in the runtime trace the output tails off right at the end rather than dropping levels, but this was due to me resetting it to Turbo every time which it did try to maintain on the last cycle.


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## MFL (Sep 20, 2015)

Hi guys!
First post here and first of all - many thanks to *subwoofer* for his great flashlight reviews!
I've just got the Fenix HL30 2015 model, based partly on this review.
Judging by the pictures, there's no change in the construction compared to the previous model.
What I don't like in mine, is that it's close to impossible to be open with bare hands. I usually need to use a flat-head screwdriver or some similar tool.
Also, with regular NiMH cells (freshly charged - about 1.35V each) I can clearly distinguish only the *Low* and *Medium* mode. The *High* actually is slightly dimmer than *Medium* and the *Turbo* seems about as bright as *Medium* :-(
I need some time to investigate this further but it looks like a defective unit to me.
Another thing - I'm a bit worried about longevity of the angle adjustment mechanism (on top of the awful ratchet sound).
I'm not sure the connection between back plate and the body would survive a drop on the floor at bad angle - too tiny and plastic pivot shafts.
All in all - not so great impressions from my first Fenix headlamp... maybe unrealistic expectations from my side or I just need to give it some time...


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## subwoofer (Sep 21, 2015)

MFL said:


> Hi guys!
> First post here and first of all - many thanks to *subwoofer* for his great flashlight reviews!
> I've just got the Fenix HL30 2015 model, based partly on this review.
> Judging by the pictures, there's no change in the construction compared to the previous model.
> ...




Thanks 

I haven't got the latest version, so cannot comment on the 2015 version itself.

Regarding opening, I think this will be entirely dependent on the individual and the size/strength of their fingers. I can see that it might be necessary to perhaps use a coin to flip the battery cover off. I'd be concerned about damage if you need to use a screwdriver.

My NiMh Eneloop come off the charger at 1.47-1.5V. Yours sound slightly under charged, and the lack of a distinct high and turbo sounds more like cell issues. Have you got alternative cells and a different charger to try? If not a fresh pair of alkaline cells should indicate if it is the HL30 itself.

My HL30 has had a lot of use and a few drops, and the angle adjustment is still fine. If you were unlucky you might break the hinge with a bad drop, but it has certainly taken plenty of knocks on my one.

Everything in design is a compromise, and the angle adjustment is a compromise of cost and weight over durability. In relative terms the HL30 is inexpensive and gives a great performance for its price point.


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## MFL (Sep 21, 2015)

Thank you for your post, *subwoofer*!
By "regular NiMH" I meant non LSD cells. Anyway - I tried with the fresh alkalines bundled with the headlamp (1.61V each). It seems to work with the usual loss of the *Low* mode.
Loaded with those, it has *Low* with same brightness as *Medium* / *Medium* / slightly brighter *High* / brighter *Turbo*.
With *Eneloop XX*, charged 7 months ago ([email protected] load), the headlamp works as it's supposed to.
So you are right - the first NiMH cells, although freshly charged, are not suitable anymore for this flashlight.
Regarding the opening - mine is very tight and hard to open even with a coin, that's why I was forced to use a longer tool - a car key or a flat-head screwdriver.
If I detach the back plate, I can open it by hand. Most likely it will loosen itself with time, but I would definitely say it is not a good design.

As I bought a second one for a present and it will be used with alkaline cells mostly, I'm not very happy with the HL30's LED driver idiosyncrasies on top of the hard opening.

I do not have much experience with various flashlights, as I started about a year ago and till now have Fenix only - PD35 2014; TK35 Ultimate; BC30 Bike light (again - many thanks for your review of BC30!); PD22 Ultimate; E99 Titanium; several E05 2014 and a plain E05.
To some extend, my impression of all of them is "Close, but no cigar", which is frustrating, as some small touches is all that's needed...
You are right again about the compromises in design, but "inexpensiveness" is also relative. Being an electronic engineer, I think for the price asked, Fenix could and should do better.
Still - I don't want to spend another sizable amount only to find about the frustrating sides of some other brand's designs... 
In light of this - your reviews (and the reviews of the other members here, who try to be as detailed and objective as possible instead of fanboy/overly positive) are very valuable. So - many thanks once again!


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## MFL (Sep 26, 2015)

Now, the recently announced *HL35* seems interesting...
If done right, could be superior to *HL30* and at virtually the same price*.*
Although I'm not sure I'll like the new *High*/*Mid*/*Low* of 200/70/30lm (and mainly the corresponding run times) against *HL30*'s 140/50/4, there's finally a moonlight mode.
Hope you will find time to review it *subwoofer*


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## guthrie (Feb 5, 2016)

Got my 2015 version HL 30 today. IT was hard to open the back but I persevered and it was fine. THe modes seem to be properly spaced with none of the issues people have mentioned above. The red seems a bit too bright though, almost brighter than the low. It was good that it came with an extra over the head band, because I like that to ensure stability when walking. The low or medium are fine for close work or finding your way around. The boost is rather bright, might come in handy some time. The tint seems a good neutral. What would be nice would be if the hotspot was a bit wider. Although the hotspot to fringe change isn't as obvious as a lot of torches it is still there, and I got the impression the hot spot would be less obvious. Still, it's a good enough torch at a reasonable price, and Ipx6 unlike many other competitor (e.g. petzl) in this sort of price range.


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## Labrador72 (Feb 5, 2016)

The Fenix HL30 is a good light for its price. I have both editions and I like the fact that it has a red led. Very versatile with a well balanced beam. Changing the batteries in the field is not exactly intuitive, especially if you are wearing glove and/or in the dark. Also the tilting design has its cons, especially if using the light for active use. 
The HL23 and HL25 have a much better design and have an aluminum body. Still I like the beam of the HL30 better and it offers higher output in a lighter package.


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