# Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500 with 10Amp tail cap switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.



## ma_sha1 (Dec 24, 2009)

This mod will may take me a while, I am dividing the mod into 3 sections:
*
Section 1. Mag cut down:*
Silver mag 2C cut down to 1C size, Runs on 2x25500 Li-ion using ModaMag
McClicky Tail Switch. This will provide enough juice to drive SSR-50 to or over spec with long run time.

*Section 2. Low cost 5-6A Driver build:* 
Not the twin shark driver that cost >$50, the goal is to make 5-6A driver for under $10 

*Section 3. 
*Add copper heat sink/Aluminum reflector, then finish up with beam shots to compare with Mag85 for throw. 


*Starting with **Section 1. Mag cut down:

*Mag 2C tube cut with a table saw, you can cut it with other type of saw, as aluminum cutting is fairly easy to do: Cut right above the switch hole:






The tube will go into the head only a little bit, need to go in all the way:




Top view, you can see that the tube is stopped by the threads,
I need to grind off the threads.
*





*This is what I use to grind off the threads:*




*
Now you can push the tube all the way in, 2 C li-ion will reach right under the switch hole. The tube will be JB welded with the head later when everything is done, for now, I just leave it here. 





Both C li-ion are Dx 25500, one is protected, then other is not. 
I am not sure if this is a good idea. I got 2 protected C li-ion but one is DOA, perhaps, running with one being protected is better than both non protected? Would like to know if anyone else have run 2 Li-ion with only one has protective circuit like this?




Size cmparasion, left to right:
Mag 2C, Mag 1.25D, Mag 1C size + tail switch w/2 C li-ion, Mag 1C stock switch w/1 C li-ion. You can see that this mod wil give you a host of Mag 1C in size but 2x mAh capacity & allow Buck driver to drive SST-50 to full spec. You can not drive SST-50 to spec (5-6A) with a single Li-ion. DX Li-ion states 5000MAh but is actually ~3000mAH, this will give you 
about one hour run time Driving SST-50 at 6A or 1.2 hour if drive it at 5A. 






To be continued...


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## ma_sha1 (Dec 24, 2009)

*Re: Mag 1C SSR-50 with 2x25500, 10A tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

Reserved for Section 2. Building 5-6A buck driver...

Six 8.4V Buck Driver wired in parallel  ( (Dx SKU 3256, 6x0.8A = ~5A.)


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## ma_sha1 (Dec 24, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, 10 Amp tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

Reserved for section 3. & beam shots


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## bluecrow76 (Dec 24, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



ma_sha1 said:


> Both C li-ion are Dx 25500, one is protected, then other is not.
> I am not sure if this is a good idea. I got 2 protected C li-ion but one is DOA, perhaps, running with one being protected is better than both non protected? Would like to know if anyone else have run 2 Li-ion with only one has protective circuit like this?



You need a protection circuit on each battery. The circuit keeps the individual cell from discharging below or charging above specific voltage levels. If you run with one unprotected cell you run the risk of that cell getting out of tolerance and going .


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## ma_sha1 (Dec 24, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, 10 Amp tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

I am looking for a relative answer, Obviously, running 2 both protected is safest, but that's not the question here. 
I was running 2 Un protected C Li-ions before, 
wouldn't be replacing one with protected cell is still safer than running both unprotected?

*Another way to ask the same question:*

Given 3 batteries: 2 Un Protected & 1 Protected & Runs two in the light,

There's only two options:

Option A: Run 2 Unprotected
Option B: Run 1 Un protected + 1 Protected

Which option is safer? A or B?


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## tx101 (Dec 25, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

Cool project :thumbsup:


Cant wait to see how you build a low cost 5-6A buck driver :twothumbs


Hmmm ..... will the Modamag tail clicky handle 5-6A ?


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## maxspeeds (Dec 25, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

This is an awesome project! I can't wait to see the progress :twothumbs


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## ma_sha1 (Dec 25, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



tx101 said:


> Cool project :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> Cant wait to see how you build a low cost 5-6A buck driver :twothumbs
> ...



I am putting Six Dx Buck Driver in parallel 
According to a post by Modoo, He has run McClicky to 6A.


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## tx101 (Dec 25, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

Dude ..... looking at all those wires gives me a headache  :nana:

Wouldnt wiring two DX P7/MCE buck boards (DX SKU 20330)
in parallel be easier ?


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## ma_sha1 (Dec 25, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



tx101 said:


> Dude ..... looking at all those wires gives me a headache  :nana:
> 
> Wouldnt wiring two DX P7/MCE buck boards (DX SKU 20330)
> in parallel be easier ?




Dude, Give you a headache? 

Imagine my headache after soldering all day to get 6 of them all connected together & hooked up & jammed into the tube, hook up my test SSR-50 & no light?

I can't imagine trouble shooting this mess. 

I was thinking about 2xP7 driver in parallel, but didn't know any that works in parallel. I thought that not all driver work in parallel? 

Do you know if the DX P7 Driver SKU 20330 works in parallel?

Thanks


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## tx101 (Dec 26, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

I could be wrong but I dont see why not.
I'll order a couple and see if it does work :thumbsup:


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## darkzero (Dec 26, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

WOW! You cut down a silver Mag2C! Those are pretty hard to find! oo:


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## zelda (Dec 26, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

I made also a sst50 Mag "C", but with 3 sub-c SCHR Ni-Mh. 
A build with dual shark buck works, but it was for this experiement too expensive.

After full charge, 3 - 5 min discharge with 5A and im getting 6.5A to 4.5A with 30min total runtime. When the pipe is getting warm, its pushes also a little bit the voltage from the batteries. 

Of course after 10 -15 min you have to shutdown, because its getting too hot for the hand 

Back to your driver, 

maybe its possible to wire the pwm-pin parallel to the other drivers?

zelda


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## ma_sha1 (Dec 26, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



darkzero said:


> WOW! You cut down a silver Mag2C! Those are pretty hard to find! oo:



Well, that'll make the Silver 1C even harder to find  



zelda said:


> I made also a sst50 Mag "C", but with 3 sub-c SCHR Ni-Mh.
> 
> Back to your driver,
> 
> ...



Can you explain that? How would that work?


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## zelda (Dec 26, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

I'm thinking with the pin from the IC to the FET, who is the clock. One stock driver with a wire to the other 5 slave driver. Cut on the 5 slave drivers the connection "clock" between IC and feet and solder them from master to slave drivers to FET. I haven't tried this yet but it would a expensive expierement if it fails! An uncontrolled driver can probaly easly destroy the ssr-50! solder some older leds in parallel to test them first. An inductive device for test don't work on a switching-driver.


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## darkzero (Dec 26, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



ma_sha1 said:


> I thought that not all driver work in parallel?


 
Most drivers will work fine in parallel, it's in series where most will not work. Wiring multimode drivers in parallel will usually have problems as the procesors tend to conflict with each other, not always but they can get out of sync very easily.

I agree with zelda, proper way to do it is to only use one processor to control all the drivers. However there may be limitations on the processor's output current being able to control a certain amount of fets.




zelda said:


> An uncontrolled driver can probaly easly destroy the ssr-50!


 
Should be ok if all those drivers will deliver 6.5A max. I've shot 9-10 to an SST-50 without killing it, just turned it angry blue after a few seconds. I'm not saying 6.5A is safe for the SST-50, just saying that it may not likely fry the emitter for a quick burst (I'm not liable for any mishaps or spikes though).


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## ma_sha1 (Dec 26, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

Thanks, I ordered two to test it out.

Dx reviews saying it only gives 2.3A to 2.5A, so should be 5A
max with two in parallel. 

I'll test with my SSR-50, If it goes , consider it as I am taking one for the team, it won't be the first time I pooed SST/SSR


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## Slickseth (Dec 26, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

Impressive work considering that you're using hand tools. 

If you want to save yourself the trouble (and time) of trying to shorten the body, I can cut and rethread a mag body for you for about $40. Not trying to advertise my services or anything, just thought your project might benefit from it. PM me if your interested.


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## ma_sha1 (Dec 28, 2009)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

While waiting for the new drivers to come,
I decided to get off my lazy butt & build a real man's beefy switch to handle the 
big current at ease. 

I used Judico 10A Switch as seen in the photo, First saw on Plasmanan's
Mag 1D P7 Shorty, I bought a few but didn't really need it until now, it was a over kill for 3A applications such as P7/MCE etc. But its perfect for SST/SSR 50 & 90. You'll be surprised how beefy the switch is. It fits in Mag C tail cap with only slight grinding. 






You just need to jam it in, hold it in place with a round disk (make one from any IC board material, press fit 
in place either glue it shut or use a split ring washer) & connect one wire to the wall & the other to 
a center spring:





I like it better as the Modamag tailswitch has a high guard, which make one handed operantion difficult, my thumb is too short. I even like the look of this DIY 10A switch better.


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## Hill (Jan 3, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

Ma sha1,

Very nice build. You beat me to the punch man...I'm doing pretty much the identical build in a 1C mag except I'm driving the ssr-50 direct drive. I only get ~3A max on full charger which comes out to about 800 lumens off one 26650 cell. That's good enough for me since driving to to 5A generates tons more heat with just a little more output.

I also used the judco 10A switch but accidently broke the leads while modding to fit into the tailswitch. 

I'll post photos when done.

Thanks for sharing!

Hill


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## Hill (Jan 5, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

Ma Sha,

I was looking at the guts of your build and notices that with 6 boards, there's not much space left for a sizable heat sink down the tube. I finished my 1C sst-50 yesterday, and running DD from 1 x 26650 measuring 3.9v, I was getting up to 2.5 amps (~600 - 700 lumens) which, not surpisingly, generated a substantial amount of heat. A 4.2V IMR 26500 got me up to 3.5 amps. And just for fun, I tried 4 x C NiMh for just a second and got 7.5 amps!! (~1200 lumens, yikes!) 

I have not run the light for more than a few minutes so don't know how long it will be before the light gets too hot to hold. 

Do your 6 drivers allow you to throttle back? Keep us updated!


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 5, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

The 6 boards are not working & too many soldering point to trouble shoot,
I went temp. insane there for a moment:hairpull:

I just got two P7 driver, so I am going to wire them up in parallel, 
hopefully it'll work to pull 4-5A for me.


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## Conte (Jan 5, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



> I am not sure if this is a good idea. I got 2 protected C li-ion but one is DOA, perhaps, running with one being protected is better than both non protected? Would like to know if anyone else have run 2 Li-ion with only one has protective circuit like this


I've done this quite extensively. Obviously, I won't recommend it for liability or safety reasons. 

But, I made up some 2x18650 Li-Ion battery packs years ago for my hotwires. I'd use them in my Fultons which were jsut long enough.

When I made the packs, I was using brand new 2400mAh cells but only had single cell protection PCBs to work with. So I hooked the PCB up to the one cell. Obviously, if to much current was drawn from the pack or the pack ran out of juice and reached cut off, when it "protected" the one cell it would shut down the whole pack, effectively protecting all the cells.

I've had those packs about 4 years now, still kicking, have given me no problems. 

Now, bear in mind the conditions. Brand new, debatably matched cells, which have been joined together in such a way that they are ALWAYs drained at the same time, at the same rate, charged at the same time, at the same rate, never abused, and have never really been asked for more then 1 amp of current their whole life. 

Under those conditions you should be ok. 

Am I correct in understanding you will be drawing 3 amps from these cells? Based on your 1 hour expected runtime. 
If you are continuously running them down to cutoff, while using your light regularly, slowly causing them to loose their capacity, and bring out any uneven aging, you could be asking for trouble.

If it's just a shock and awe light, you occasionally bust out to impress your buddies while allowing you the ability to top them off as soon as your done, never expecting them to give you 100%. I'd feel safe. (I have an arsenal of unprotected cells I use under those conditions.)

But yeah, if this light is a "user" get those ducks in a row.


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 6, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

Thanks, That's what I thought, one protection is better than no protection.


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## Hill (Jan 6, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



ma_sha1 said:


> I just got two P7 driver, so I am going to wire them up in parallel,
> hopefully it'll work to pull 4-5A for me.



Good idea. Much fewer soldering points and better chance of success.

Which P7 drivers did you go with?


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## Moddoo (Jan 6, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

to the folks in this thread building direct drive with IMR 26500 or 26650...

Be careful how you test these loads.

These cells are capable of driving the SST50 to a full 5+ amps.

the leads to your meter, and the meter itself can cause incorrect readings.

of course, there are possible resistance problems with any build.

I wanted to make sure that you know these cells are not a limitation when direct driving the sst50.

have fun modding!:twothumbs


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## Moddoo (Jan 6, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

repost


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 7, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



Hill said:


> Good idea. Much fewer soldering points and better chance of success.
> 
> Which P7 drivers did you go with?



The one suggested by TX101 on post #9 above.


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 7, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



Moddoo said:


> to the folks in this thread building direct drive with IMR 26500 or 26650...
> 
> Be careful how you test these loads.
> These cells are capable of driving the SST50 to a full 5+ amps.
> ...




Moddoo,

I build & sold a SSR-50 (Extreme top bin) with IMR 26650 Direct Drive 
here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/252555

It wasn't much brighter than P7 DD with non IMR Li-ion. I don't have a meter that could measure the current, but judging by the brightness, 
I think it's 3-3.5Amp tops. That's why I am trying 2xLi-ion with 2xP7 Driver. 

In a different test, I run IMR 26650 on a P7 (CSXOI bin) light, & the P7 looks brighter. So I think that SSR-50 vf. may be higher than Vf of P7 "I bin". Too bad that they don't group the SSR/SST by vf. 

IMR Direct Drive will not reliably consistent in terms out put. If you get lucky & land a super low vf one, may be possible for 5A, but so far I've done 3-4 SST/SSR builds, on 3 separate order of LEDs, I haven't seen a low vf SST/SSR yet. 

So far, I think the only sure way to get 5A for sure to use multiple batteries & buck regulate it.


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## darkzero (Jan 9, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



ma_sha1 said:


> Moddoo,
> I haven't seen a low vf SST/SSR yet.


 
What were the vfs you were getting?




ma_sha1 said:


> So far, I think the only sure way to get 5A for sure to use multiple batteries & buck regulate it.


 
I did a KL6 SST-50 build where I was using a heavily modded Tri-FLuPIC. I exceeded the processor's capabilities & when the processor started to act funny the SST-50 would get 9.5A. Of course it tint shifted right away. This was with a IMR18650, the FLuPIC is not a boost driver so over 5A with a IMR is possible.


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## Moddoo (Jan 9, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, Modamag tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



darkzero said:


> What were the vfs you were getting?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I have seen similar results with a direct drive SST50 on an IMR 18650.
9.5A with a fully charged cell.
Surprisingly, the emitter seems unharmed by this experimenting.
But, yes, tint shifted to a strong blue at 9+A


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 10, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, 10 Amp tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

OK, folks, the moment of truth is here:

It works! I hooked up 2 of the Dx P7 Buck Driver in parallel, 
tail cap measurement gets 3.8A.

This is on 2 Li-ion, so 8v x 3.8A ~30 Watts 
Assume the driver is 75% efficiency: 30 wattx0.75 ~ 22 Watts going into the SSR-50. Assume vf is 3.7: 
22/3.7 ~ 5.9 Amp regulated current going through the LED. (If the vf is lower than 3.7, the actual current could be a little higher).







Yeah!! Finally, a low cost solution for SSR/SST Constant current regulation. I am sure you can wire 3 P7 driver in parallel & Run SSR-90 for 9 Amp!. Yeah, it works, yeah! 

Now, I've always used Mag 85 as benchmark for my LED mods. 
I had hoped that a hard driven SSR-50 may be able to compete with Mag 85 for throw, using a P7 reflector, the hot spot is similar in size to my mag 85 & the lumen out put at ~6A should be close to 1500, a little more than Mag 85. So I took it outside for some beam shots. 

* 
Beam Shots:*
Camrea was set to: ISO 800, 1/4 second exposure, F 2.6. 

*
First up: Mag 85*





*Second up: SSR-50 driven ~6A*





*Now, Side by side. SSR-50 on left & Mag 85 on right. *
*This so so much brighter than P7 now, as P7 never came close to the Mag 85. *





*Top view of the SSR-50 inside of Dx P7 Reflector:*






Picture of the EX P7 Driver used: SKU 20330
Regulated Constant Current LED Driver for P7 Emitters (8.4V Max Input).
The driver is pretty big, barely fit into mag C tube. 
*Wire 2 in parallel to drive SSR/SST-50 with 2 Li-ion: $10 Driver solution (6A)
Wire 3 in parallel to drive SSR/SST-90 with 2 Li-ion: $15 Driver solution (9A)*


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## Techjunkie (Jan 18, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, 10 Amp tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*

ma_sha, would you mind trying to measure the current between the drivers and the emitter with your DMM the next time you have this torch apart?

I had tried to double up DX 20330 drivers in the past and did not find that their output doubled, even though the input drawn from the batteries increased with the addition of the second driver.

After measuring only ~2.2A output from one driver to a 4P MC-E, I wired 2 of the DX 20330 drivers in parallel and then measured only ~2.6A output from the combined drivers. In the end, I re-wired the MC-E as 2p & 2p and connected each pair of dies to separate DX 20330s. Those were the original version 20330 with large cylindrical caps. Since then, I've used the newer version, but only separately, never trying to double them up again. (The new version pushes 2.6A to a 4P MCE using only one driver.)

I had assumed that based on my test, these drivers did not work in parallel. Now that I have seen your results, I am wondering if the reason that output current didn't double in my test was because the drivers are also constant voltage regulated, and the 4P MC-E just wouldn't draw more than 2.6A current at that Vf (but an SST 50/90 will). The DX product description for 20330 reads, or used to read CC/*CV.*

Also, do yours whine? The last time I ran three of these from the same power pack, they made a ton of noise.

:EDIT: I just saved myself from myself. I have three of these 20330 drivers new and unused (and a fourth working pull from an old project) and my trigger finger was itching to try three of these in my SST-90 build. Luckily, a quick measurement with the calipers revealed that three stacked together as in the pic linked above requires at least 25mm height between the Mag switch and the heatsink - something I don't have with the Brightlumens Deluxe Mag D sink. The SST-90 escapes unscathed...

Two stacked together only require 15mm though (if you bend the inductors aside so they line up face to face). I may just have to ressurect my SSR-50 plans after all. I also have a silver Mag 2C and had it prepped and ready to receive an SSR-50 that I had on order from AVnet and then cancelled when I didn't see an appealing driver option. I also wasn't sure my chosen reflector would work well with that emitter, it was a gamble. I was planning to use the DX MC-E 52mm reflector with brass pill to mount the SSR star in. It looks exactly like what you have there and your beam shots look pretty good so it looks like I have everything I need on hand except for the SSR-50. Without a working 5A driver option, I had considered cutting my silver 2C down and direct driving it from 1 26650 and even also considered a tail clickie. My project and yours would have been nearly identical. I might just re-order that star and slap everything together after all, seeing as how I have everything else I need already gathered (no cut-down or tail switch though).



ma_sha1 said:


> OK, folks, the moment of truth is here:
> 
> It works! I hooked up 2 of the Dx P7 Buck Driver in parallel,
> tail cap measurement gets 3.8A.
> ...


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## maxspeeds (Jan 19, 2010)

I'm hoping you have pics of the heatsink assembly in this cut mag C. I'm currently in the process of a directly driven xr-e and not quite sure what to do regarding the heatsink and keeping it in place


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## Techjunkie (Jan 19, 2010)

maxspeeds said:


> I'm hoping you have pics of the heatsink assembly in this cut mag C. I'm currently in the process of a directly driven xr-e and not quite sure what to do regarding the heatsink and keeping it in place


 
I'm guessing the answer will be more JB-weld.


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 19, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, 10 Amp tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



Techjunkie said:


> ma_sha, would you mind trying to measure the current between the drivers and the emitter with your DMM the next time you have this torch apart?
> 
> I had tried to double up DX 20330 drivers in the past and did not find that their output doubled, even though the input drawn from the batteries increased with the addition of the second driver.
> 
> After measuring only ~2.2A output from one driver to a 4P MC-E, I wired 2 of the DX 20330 drivers in parallel and then measured only ~2.6A output from the combined drivers.



Tech, I should have measured the Amp at the LED instead, now it's too late. But I kind of assumed it worked as neatly 4Amp at 8V, that's 30W, 
if led only see <3A, ~10W, then 20W of heat must be burned off at the driver, would probably killed the driver by now. 

Also , the spot is so much brighter than those SSR-50 DD with Li-ion & IMR 26650, also able to keep up with Mag85, those are the reasons I think it worked. 

Were you using 2-lions? 

I do hear the wine when putting it together, but after JB welded
everything in place, I don't hear it now. There no switch at the neck,
the system might have muffled the driver sound.


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## Techjunkie (Jan 19, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, 10 Amp tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



ma_sha1 said:


> Tech, I should have measured the Amp at the LED instead, now it's too late. But I kind of assumed it worked as neatly 4Amp at 8V, that's 30W,
> if led only see <3A, ~10W, then 20W of heat must be burned off at the driver, would probably killed the driver by now.
> 
> Also , the spot is so much brighter than those SSR-50 DD with Li-ion & IMR 26650, also able to keep up with Mag85, those are the reasons I think it worked.
> ...


 
Yep. I had 2 26650 in a 3C. I built someone a P7 powered by one of those and six AA and I noticed that one only whining when the batteries were low. With the others, they whined even on a full charge.

I can't tell from your pic, but it looks like the emitter PCB isn't entering the reflector hole. Am I right about that? Do you feel like you could have an even tighter spot if the emitter could move higher up in the reflector?

I was concerned that using a star with the DX reflector & pill combo wouldn't provide a good focus unless I removed the bottom of the reflector so the SST-50 emitter could move up higher than the emitter for which it was intended (MC-E in this case - I planed to ream it a bit).


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 19, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, 10 Amp tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



Techjunkie said:


> I can't tell from your pic, but it looks like the emitter PCB isn't entering the reflector hole. Am I right about that? Do you feel like you could have an even tighter spot if the emitter could move higher up in the reflector?
> 
> I was concerned that using a star with the DX reflector & pill combo wouldn't provide a good focus unless I removed the bottom of the reflector so the SST-50 emitter could move up higher than the emitter for which it was intended (MC-E in this case - I planed to ream it a bit).



I filed down the solder pad after soldering wires (Spread the wire flat, solder it & then file it down) to the star so that the DX P7 reflector can sit low, it's almost flush with the led as the led is also elevated from the star by it's ractangle PCB thin pad. I think the reflector focal point is the flat section, so the lED is meant to be flush with that. With my set-up, the led is nearly flush with the flat section of the reflector. I could also grind off the flat section by 0.5mm or so to have it sit down a bit lower, but give the spot quality is perfect right now (I am a white wall hunter), I didn't have the urge to mess with it. 

In a different light I sold, I cut a Stock reflector to take in the whole star, I was able to get a slightly smaller spot but not by much may be (5-10% smaller). But the spot is ugly, then I stippled the Stock reflector to make a better beam but it's much more yellow than the P7 reflector. 

Overall, the Dx P7 reflector gave me a perfect spot with no artifacts similar in size to Mag 85 spot(After filing the solder pad down to push the reflector down) & mag85 spot is pretty tight. I can't adjust it, so I can't be sure if it's perfect focus but I'd say it's excellent focus to be the least.


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## Techjunkie (Jan 20, 2010)

The focus probably is perfect. I did some experimenting with an SST-90 last night and was surprised to find that the focus was tightest when the bottom of the dome was just below the flat part of the same reflector. I had reamed mine out so the pedestal could protrude into the reflector. It turns out that wasn't necessary. (I assume the characteristics of the SST-50 dome and it's viewing angle are the same as the SST-90.)

I hope you have tape or paper or something on the filed-down leads on the pads to insure that they don't short against the reflector bottom the next time you tighten the head/bezel/reflector/etc.


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 21, 2010)

Good to know that you are seeing the same. My previous SSR-90 built on a Kel-lite 2C also used Dx P7 reflector,
also done the same way with perfect focus. So the SSR-50 & 90 do seem to work the same way focus wise.

As for the bottom of reflector, I electrically insulate it with the yellow carpon tape, extremely thin, strong & resistant to heat up to 300 degrees.


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## Techjunkie (Jan 29, 2010)

I built mine last night and good news on two fronts: clamp meter test between drivers and emitter confirms 5A drive current and... no hum!

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3258032#post3258032


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## ma_sha1 (Jan 29, 2010)

Tech, Thanks for confirming that the solution does deliver the full spec of 5Amp to SSR-90. 

Even without measurement, I was pretty confident as I had the high tail cap AMP as well as my Mag85
as control & I know 3 Amp SSR-50 I previously made can't touch it. But it's always good to have emittor Amp data to back it up. 

I am glad it worked for you too!

This has really become a great news for high current driver solutions.


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## bigchelis (Feb 5, 2010)

I really enjoyed reading the progress of this build and am really looking forward to testing how much it makes OTF.

I will also have a 1C Mag SST-50 DD made by Nailbender and powered by a IMR C 26500 cell to compare it against. I will compare both current and OTF lumens as well as beamshoots:twothumbs


Thanks again,
bigC


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## ma_sha1 (Feb 6, 2010)

Thanks BigC,

Look forward to your readings!

I think I am going to make a DEFT Clone with Fully Driven SSR-50 next :naughty:


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## bigchelis (Feb 8, 2010)

I got the light and was lucky enough that my IMR AW C cells 26500's all fit:twothumbs


I put 2 of them topped off at 4.16v each and got 2.78A at the tail with my meter:thinking: 

I am currently topping off the 2 DX C cells you sent and will re-test current, voltage, and OTF lumens when they are ready fresh off the charger.

Anyhow I also put a UCL lens in the Mag just to make sure we get the most lumens possible.

Here is with the IMR C cells:

*Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A____________ High bin SST-50 Reg ________ 2 IMR 26500 4.16v each _____________ 961.5___________ 1 sec*
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 IMR 26500 4.16v each ______________ 892.3___________ 30sec
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 IMR 26500 4.16v each ______________ 886.2___________ 1 min
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 IMR 26500 4.16v each ______________ 862.3___________ 2 min
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 IMR 26500 4.16v each ______________ 800.8___________ 3 min
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 IMR 26500 4.16v each ______________ 770.0___________ 4 min



I just got the blue DX C cells off the charger and at 4.17v each ( no load) they pull 2.78A at the tail too. I am measuring current in the identical fashion as the pictures on this thread show. I wonder how it will go back up to 3.85A????


EDIT: I just realized that the OP got 3.8A with the cells at 4V each and since its regulated the current goes up. 


Still; under no load I am at best pushing 23 watts no close to the 30 watts the OP saw with his meter under no load.


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## Justin Case (Feb 8, 2010)

*Re: Self-cut Mag 1C SSR-50, 2x25500, 10 Amp tail switch, Fully Driven to 5-6A mod.*



ma_sha1 said:


> OK, folks, the moment of truth is here:
> 
> It works! I hooked up 2 of the Dx P7 Buck Driver in parallel,
> tail cap measurement gets 3.8A.
> ...



How is that SS24 diode holding up? The datasheet specs rate it only to 2A.


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## bigchelis (Feb 8, 2010)

I got the blue DX C cells up to 4.21v each and the tail current went down to 2.44A and dropping little by little. 

I will re-take the lumens with the blue DX and IMR C cells at 4.21v each see what changes.:candle: Trying to hit 1000 OTF...


Well it is about the same OTF lumens as the IMR AW 26500 C cells, but just a tad more. Now, I have to re-test the IMR C cells at 4.21v each to make it fair.

Here is the blue DX non-protected C cells, which are holding up rather good.

*Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A____________ High bin SST-50 Reg ________ 2 DX li-on C cell w/2.45A ____________ 984.6____________ 1 sec*
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 DX li-on C cell w/2.45A ______________904.6___________ 30sec
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 DX li-on C cell w/2.45A_______________881.5___________ 1 min
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 DX li-on C cell w/2.45A ______________ 850.0___________ 2 min
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 DX li-on C cell w/2.45A ______________ 839.3___________ 3 min
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 DX li-on C cell w/2.45A ______________ 817.7___________ 4 min

At the end of the 4 minute runtime the DX cells were down to 4.13V and 4.14V. The tail cap current reading up to 2.7~2.8A.


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## bigchelis (Feb 9, 2010)

I finally got the IMR C cells at 4.22v each.....


Justin Case, 
I know you have the answer to my issues. I charged up the IMR C cells 4.21v vs. 4.12v and I am gettting more current at the tail. As expected with more voltage and current it gets toasty at 5 minutes and my OTF lumens increased a little bit too.

Here is my latest OTF readings:


*Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A____________ High bin SST-50 Reg ________ 2 IMR 26500 w/3.22A _______________1000.8___________1 sec*
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 IMR 26500 w/3.22A ______________ 933.1 ___________30sec
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 IMR 26500 w/3.22A ______________ 903.8___________ 1 min
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 IMR 26500 w/3.22A ______________ 877.7___________ 2 min
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 IMR 26500 w/3.22A ______________ 861.5___________ 3 min
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 IMR 26500 w/3.22A ______________ 836.2___________ 4 min
Ma_Sha1 2C SST-50 5~6A_____________ High bin SST-50 Reg _________ 2 IMR 26500 w/3.22A ______________ 823.8___________ 5 min




Ma_Sha1,
I wish I could duplicate the 3.8A at the tail with 2 IMR C cells topped off at 4.21v each, as I am sure I would get another 50 plus OTF lumens, but I must say I love the size of this mini 2C Mag. The tailcap mod is freaking awesome too. The judco switch is kinda hard to press, but very well made mod.

The tint is kinda Greenish like the XP-G R4's circulation right now, but with all the throw this 2C Mini offers no complains by me. Glad you sent it right away to me and honestly I never expected more than 800 OTF lumens.

The light feels heavier than my 1D Mag by Nailbender with dd P7. I bet its that cooper heatsink. Is the heatsink the same one you weighed on your other build. I love cooper for my LED lights and happy you choose that as a heatsink.

bigC


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## ma_sha1 (Feb 9, 2010)

Yeah, over 1000 OTF lumens finally! Yeah!
My 3.8A come from cheap $10 meter, are you using a better clamp meter? What model? 




> The light feels heavier than my 1D Mag by Nailbender with dd P7. I bet its that cooper heatsink. Is the heatsink the same one you weighed on your other build. I love cooper for my LED lights and happy you choose that as a heatsink.


The heat sink is a large 2" disk sitting inside the Mag head, it's not as heavy as my other build (maybe slightly heavier than Alu. plug sink) as I can only fit 3mm thick disk under the reflector. But it has huge contact surface as it's thermo glued on the Flat platform inside of mag C. It transfers heat more effectively due to it's copper as well as large contact surface, I like it better than the traditional method of Aluminum-sink-plug-in-the-tube, especially for big power mods. 

It's not really the weight & size of the heat sink that matters, it's the size of contact surface as well as how well the thermo transfer of the heat to the meaty part of mag head & body that is usually the "rate limiting step". 

I think the extra weight mostly comes from that this silver mag is an older style (Able to fit 26mm battery) which may have thicker walls for head & body tubing, also it has two C-lions in there vs. one in your NB flashlight. I love it,
it's small but got a heft feel with it.


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## TorchBoy (Apr 5, 2010)

You've moved on, but for reference that original driver you tried isn't based on a C310 chip any more. It's a AX2002 set up to deliver 910-930 mA (http://www.videofoundry.co.nz/ianma.../driverlist.php?price_min=6.97&price_max=6.97). Just changing the set resistor on a single driver would give you greater output, but placing several drivers in parallel would put all their set resistors in parallel. Drivers are not perfectly identical, so you'd get one driver trying to do most of the work (a total of about 5.5 amps). They can't cope with that.

Most buck drivers can't be run in parallel.


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## ma_sha1 (Apr 5, 2010)

I've never seen that Driver site before, so that's very useful reference. Thanks!

But I didn't end up using that driver. I wired 6 in parallel but it won't fire up.
I end up using 2 Dx P7 driver in parallel to deliver the 5Amp & it worked.


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## TorchBoy (Apr 5, 2010)

I think there might be a couple versions of that driver as well. The first ones delivered as little as 1.95 A each, or just 2.3 A with two in parallel, with something seriously bad happening to efficiency. Have you measured the actual current to the LED?


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