# Soldering Station



## Chop (Oct 10, 2003)

I stumbled across this site and just had to share. I was looking for a Soldering Station and was looking at the Hakko 936, but then I found this. http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307

But what was great was that, with the station and extra tips I ordered, my total came to $50 so they gave me this free, http://www.circuitspecialists.com/level.itml/icOid/190

If you're tired of using that stick iron, this is it. It's not a Metcal, but it works nicely.


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## hotbeam (Oct 10, 2003)

Thanks for the links Chop. Did you also manage to find out a couple of stores that sold the 936 or 937?


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## Chop (Oct 10, 2003)

Hotbeam,
The best price at a reputable dealer was here, http://www.tequipment.net/

The sell it for ~$85. The thing is that for ~$75 from Circuit Specialists, I got the soldering station, four additional tips, the DMM and 3 day UPS. They even threw in a calendar/clock/calculator. It was like Christmas.

If you look at the unit from CSI, it looks just like the Hakko 936. To top it off, when I got my station, I read the instructions, they make reference to the 900, 907 and 908 wands, which are the exact same designations that Hakko uses for their wands on the 936. Admittedly, the CSI unit is rated at 40W and the Hakko is rated at 50W, but for less than the price of the Hakko, I got everything I needed and fast. You also need to check out the replacement wand cost on the Hakko. I think it's just a good bang for the buck. They also offer a tweezer wand allowing soldering of chip resistors. I think these would be really handy for overdriving, although I've done without them. Maybe the CSI unit is based on the Hakko 926 internals. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif


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## hotbeam (Oct 11, 2003)

Thanks Chop /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif The price you got indeed sounds Christmas came early. Looking at the 2 pics, it does look like they are the handywork of the same manufacturer! The wand on yours look a bit rougher than the 936? My eyes?


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## CM (Oct 11, 2003)

I live not that far from CSI. I did inquire about the unit for Chop and asked about Hakko 936 and the extreme similarities. The guy just grinned at me and said they're not supposed to say who makes it. He said it's a great value for the price with a snickery look that told me it's made by Hakko. I plan on picking one up to supplement my old 926. The 40W is just probably specsmanship that allows Hakko to have the edge when people like Chop inquire about the huge price difference. I bet it's a 50W that's been downspec'ed so Hakko can differentiate itself. 40W, 50W, so what? I've been successfully using a ratshack 25W POS for a long time. This thing is a great bargain /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

CM


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## Chop (Oct 11, 2003)

Hotbeam,
I've never laid my eyes on a Hakko, so I couldn't tell you about the difference in wands. All I do know is that the manual that came with mine made the references that I mentioned above and those three that I mentioned are options for the 936. My wand is nice and comfortable.


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## hotbeam (Oct 11, 2003)

Here is what they look like. Look anything like yours?


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## Chop (Oct 11, 2003)

Hotbeam,
Mine doesn't say Hakko.

BTW, I shopped the Hakko 936 and was getting ready to buy one, when I stumbled across the Circuit Specialist model.

While shopping I ran across a few things that just made me re-think paying for the Hakko name. Check these out and see if they look familiar.

http://www.xeltek.com/product/solderingequipment/969esd.html

http://www.sinoproduct.net/stations/aoyue/936.htm

http://www.foreways.net/936a.htm

Those are just a few. They all look like the Hakko with similar specs. Same wands too. Coincidence? I don't know, but I sure do like my $35 soldering station.


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## koala (Oct 11, 2003)

My Hakko 40w soldering pencil is 5 years 10 months old. Went through 3 sets of tips. My only all time all purpose soldering tool still in service... nuff said.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif


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## hotbeam (Oct 11, 2003)

Where did you get your Hakko from nukiez?


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## Chop (Oct 11, 2003)

Believe me, I'm not knocking the Hakkos at all. I, one day, hope to have one. All I'm saying is that I got what I did for $35 and it works really welll. I'm not making any representations about it working as well as or better than a Hakko.


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## koala (Oct 11, 2003)

I got mine for around AU$7 or US$3 but you can't get it at that price in the US or downunder. I got it from my home country /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif That was 5 years ago in Malaysia.

Btw, it's just a pencil+wallplug not a station.

The best place is to try this..
http://www.computronics.com.au/hakko/ might not the best price.

Chop, the last one before my Hakko was real good too, but I don't know what brand it is. The humidity and rust killed it. I don't mean Hakko is the best but buy what you can afford and suit the job.

Vince.


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## Chop (Oct 11, 2003)

Hotbeam,
The link that I posted above handles the Hakko pencils too.


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## ZENGHOST (Oct 11, 2003)

Hmmm...this may be exactly what I'm looking for. I'm going to need something when those Hotlips heatsinks get here. Any recommendations as to which tips I should get to go along with it?


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## Chop (Oct 11, 2003)

Zenghost,
It comes with a long needle tip. In the day and a half that I've been using it, I've used the standard needle tip and I think it's the 2.?mm chisel tip. You might want to get a few other things cause, right now, if you order $50 or more you get the free DMM. Remember to click on the special link to get the code for it.

Altogether, I got the regular needle tip, the 1.6mm chisel tip, the 2.?mm chisel tip and the long regular needle tip. The one that came with it was REALLY skinny. Like pin point skinny.


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## ZENGHOST (Oct 11, 2003)

I actually have one of those free DMMs already from when I bought my light meter. And they only ship via 2nd Day UPS for Hawaii, so I'd already be burning 20 bucks for nothing in return. This one definitely looks better than the Radio Shack ones I've been seeing.


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## tvodrd (Oct 11, 2003)

Darn you guys! (Order sent /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif )

Larry


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## Chop (Oct 11, 2003)

Larry,
Isn't it just amazing the way you never know you need something until you see it. Then it just hits you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Or more specifically, your wallet.


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## ZENGHOST (Oct 13, 2003)

Bummer--I was going to order even though I'd get gouged on the shipping, but instead of paying $20 for 2nd day UPS, it'll be $30. I guess the weight of it must be substantially different than that of the LM631. Looks like I'll have to get a different one or find someone CONUS to forward it on to me. I refuse to pay $30 s/h for something that costs $35.


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## Chop (Oct 16, 2003)

Well,
Had to post. Last night, while modding the KL1's I just got in, just after actually, my wand started smoking and then got really hot and the power supply shut down. After a little cursing and huffing and puffing about my new soldering station blowing up, so to speak, I emailed Circuit Specialists. I told them what happened and asked for a new wand. I was expecting an email from them this evening and was a little disappointed that I hadn't received one. Well, as soon as I got off of the computer my phone rang and it was CSI. They were calling to let me know that they had already shipped me an entire new unit, freight on them. They didn't even ask for the old one back. The station worked great while it was working and I really liked it. I guess it could happen with any manufacturer, but the customer service was first class.


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## robk (Oct 16, 2003)

Chop,
That's good to hear, because I've got one coming in on Monday. Hope it doesn't self-destruct like yours. I couldn't resist the price.
Rob


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## tvodrd (Oct 16, 2003)

Mine came today /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I'll try it this weekend.

Larry


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## robk (Oct 21, 2003)

Well, the CSI soldering station arrived today and I had a chance to try it out tonight. First, it is not built very well. But what do you expect for $35?? The temperature was fluctuating wildly (according to my Fluke digital thermometer) and if you wiggled the cable at the rear of the wand, the LED on the control unit would go on and off. So, rather than return it, I decided to void the warranty and fix it. All it took was to chop off 3" of cable and re-solder the leads to the guts of the wand. It seems there was a break in the cable where they crimped it onto the small circuit board. Now it holds a constant temperature (although about 30° less than the dial indicator) and doesn't blink when I wiggle the cable. Not a bad unit for the price, but it has a few weaknesses. I'll replace the entire cable with something more reliable soon. It does hold a constant temp even when used on large "heat sucking" joints. It will do for me, quite a bit better than a $10 stick from Radio Shack!
Rob


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## Rothrandir (Oct 21, 2003)

well these don't sound all that nice, but compared to my radioshack "soldering sword" it should work a lot better!

how big is the tip exactly? my current iron is soooooo long it's like soldering with a ******* sword. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif


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## robk (Oct 21, 2003)

The tip that it comes with is a very fine conical one, much smaller that the ones that fit the RS 15 watt iron, the wand fits your hand a lot better too. I've been using that tip for testing, and it works well. It's surprising that you can actually solder large brass pieces with this tiny tip - but it does what it's supposed to do - hold a constant temp , within reason. I also got a 0.8mm chisel tip and another small conical tip - haven't tried them yet. I was just out in the garage playing with it, and I must admit, I've used soldering irons for 40 years - this cheap temp controlled thing beats anything I've ever used. I have a 15 watt for small stuff, a 25 watt for stuff that sucks a little more heat, and a 40 watt to really melt the hard stuff. This CSI will take the place of all three because it supplies up to 40 watts to maintain a constant 700° to whatever you are soldering. I know it's a cheap unit, but I can't afford a Metcal right now, so I'm happy with it. When soldering small surface mount parts, it just seems to ajust itself to the right amount of heat to make the solder flow perfectly. I can just imagine how nice it must be to have a high quality Metcal unit!
Rob


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## Rothrandir (Oct 21, 2003)

well it's bound to beat what i'm using now! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

how *long* is the tip? a shorter tip is my main reason for getting a new iron...


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## robk (Oct 21, 2003)

The stock tip is about an inch long, easy to use because of the well designed wand. It fits your hand well, is not too long or too short. Actually, I was comfortable with it in an hour. I soldered a ZLT circuit easily with the stock tip, and it worked although I was concerned about overheating the parts. I used a quick touch with a clean tip, and all worked out OK.
I guess to answer your question, when holding the wand in your hand with the stock tip, it is a bit smaller and shorter than a RS 15 watt iron. It is a very pleasant length to work with.
Rob


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## koala (Oct 21, 2003)

Wow a $35 soldering station that comes with warranty? How are they making a profit out of it?! Sounds like a good unit..


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## Chop (Oct 21, 2003)

robk,
What did you do about the leads going into the sleeve around the ceramic heater. Were you able to resolder these as well. My new unit is coming in tomorrow and I'm going to check it out as you have. If I need to fix it I'm gonna PM you if you don't mind.


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## robk (Oct 21, 2003)

Vince-
Yup, warranty on a $35 station. Not bad.

Chop-
I did resolder the leads coming out of the ceramic heater to the PCB just because they looked like they needed it. Also fixed the solder joints on the little jumpers. The big problem was the 5 wire cable must have had a bad wire near the metal "clamp", if I moved the cable, the LED would blink (I know it's supposed to blink when it's powered!) I mean the LED would go out when I pulled the cable, back on if I pushed it. I just desoldered the 5 wires, cut 3" off, stripped, resoldered back and all is fine. Holds a constant temp now.

Rob


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## ufokillerz (Oct 21, 2003)

hopefully mine won't be bad =\ ordered one sunday night.


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## Chop (Oct 21, 2003)

Thanks rob,
I may just do what you did as a preventive measure. For $35 it can't be beat, but there is a PITA value too. If it turns out to be more trouble than its worth, it may have been a bad buy, but the guy at CSI really stand behind their product. My new, replacement rig was on its way before they even got back in touch with me. They didn't even ask for the old one back.

I'm wondering if a Hakko wand will work with this unit. Any insight anyone?


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## robk (Oct 21, 2003)

I thought it was quite funny the cable is marked "Audio/Video Cable", that's what made me investigate it. I have to replace it with something that's a bit more resistant to bending and twisting. The strain relief doesn't prevent the cable twisting.
Rob


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## robk (Oct 21, 2003)

By the way, what temp are you using for small surface mount components? I'm using 700°F but I think that's a bit hot. Actually, 700° on the dial is about 670° on the tip.
Rob


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## Chop (Oct 21, 2003)

I use 700 to make quick work of it. Haven't had any problems with that. I tried 600 put had to use too long of a contact period for comfort.


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## robk (Oct 21, 2003)

Thanks.
I'll continue to use 700°


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## TheFire (Oct 21, 2003)

Well, I think I'll be getting one too... The price, combined with the Customer Service reports, combined with the fact that it's got an OK warranty sound like it's a good unit. Customer service is a VERY important item to me...


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## ODatsBright (Jan 1, 2005)

This info was just what I was looking for. I think I'll get one of the CSI units rather than the Hakko, tho I usually spend the extra money and get the much higher quality product. Sounds like this is real good. Now onto getting a good DMM, any suggestions? I've been looking at the Fluke 179 but the Metex 3860D seems feature packed although some research suggests its not a "true RMS" meter but uses some kind of circuitry to get TRMS.


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## Chop (Jan 1, 2005)

The CSI unit is definitely a good buy, but if you can afford it and the tips, go for the Hakko. It is a better unit, although the two CSI units that I had saw a lot of use and never let me down.

If you're into buying the best, look into a Metcal. I now use a Metcal MX500 and it is truly head and shoulders above the rest that I've used, which included the CSI, Hakkos, and a couple of Wellers.


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## ODatsBright (Jan 2, 2005)

I've done more reading and true to my nature, I've committed to getting the Hakko 936, I don't need digital temp control of the 937. The CSI units look nice and are a sweet deal, but its only ~$50 more (yes still 2X the cost tho) for the Hakko but the Hakko just seems "better". 

Now to find the DMM I 'need' as I "want" a Fluke 189...but almost $400 is a big pill to swallow.


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## TrueBlue (Jan 2, 2005)

I'm confused. Am I missing something in the soldering station shoot-out? Isn't the Hakko 936 and the CSI soldering station the same unit with a different name and Hakko charging a lot more? I've never noticed a difference between the CSI and the Hakko except a lot more money for the Hakko.


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## Chop (Jan 2, 2005)

The CSI is a nice unit, for the price. The Hakko and CSI are not the same unit. The minute you pick up the wands and start working with them, you'll know what I mean.


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## TrueBlue (Jan 2, 2005)

I surely must have missed something when I used them both. They both seemed the same to me. They operated the same and the irons, both with ceramic tips, worked the same.

Oh well, somehow, people say the two stations are different even though they look identical. I use a regulated iron to solder and nothing more.


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## Chop (Jan 2, 2005)

Well,

I used two of the CSI units exclusively for over a year. CSI has excellent customer service, but the units themselves are what they are. They are good for the PRICE. When I first got my units, I noticed that the cable on the handpiece was labeled audio/video. I had bad connections and the temp control was jumpy. Of four units, I returned two, due to defects, and kept the other two, which were fine after getting the kinks out.

The Hakko is also better at keeping the temp up when soldering large items, like heat sinks and cans.


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## TrueBlue (Jan 2, 2005)

I don’t think your one bad apple should represent the entire run of CSI soldering stations.

I just called a company that deals with soldering all day long. They have fourteen soldering stations. Four are Hakko, eight are CSI and the other two are some other brand. The people that operate the soldering stations have had no problems with their CSI units. The owner of the printed circuit company asked me why anyone would not get one of the CSI units. He has been in business for over 30 years and told me he will continue to buy CSI units.

Plus I have a CSI soldering station that has operated flawlessly.

You must have gotten an unlucky, odd, unit.


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## LitFuse (Jan 2, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*haveblue said:*
I surely must have missed something when I used them both. They both seemed the same to me. They operated the same and the irons, both with ceramic tips, worked the same.

Oh well, somehow, people say the two stations are different even though they look identical. I use a regulated iron to solder and nothing more. 

[/ QUOTE ]

[ QUOTE ]
*CM said:*
I live not that far from CSI. I did inquire about the unit for Chop and asked about Hakko 936 and the extreme similarities. The guy just grinned at me and said they're not supposed to say who makes it. He said it's a great value for the price with a snickery look that told me it's made by Hakko. I plan on picking one up to supplement my old 926. The 40W is just probably specsmanship that allows Hakko to have the edge when people like Chop inquire about the huge price difference. I bet it's a 50W that's been downspec'ed so Hakko can differentiate itself. 40W, 50W, so what? I've been successfully using a ratshack 25W POS for a long time. This thing is a great bargain /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

CM 

[/ QUOTE ]

I haven't used either of them (have a Metcal), but they sure do look "similar" in the pics earlier in the thread. Don't forget about eBay, if you put some effort into it, Metcals can often be found at bargain prices. You may not _need_ a Metcal, but once you try one, you won't ever want to use anything else. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Peter


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## Doug S (Jan 2, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*LitFuse said:*
You may not _need_ a Metcal, but once you try one, you won't ever want to use anything else. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Peter 

[/ QUOTE ]
Ahem, Bro. I've got two myself. Both from Ebay.


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## Chop (Jan 2, 2005)

Hey,

I'm not knocking the CSI unit. Like I said, I've cranked out lots of mods with mine and whole heartedly recommend them. One of the reasons that I bought the CSI is because it looked so much like a Hakko that I didn't think it could be coincidence. All I'm saying is that you should look to something of a higher grade, if you can afford to.


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## tvodrd (Jan 2, 2005)

I have been very satisfied with the CSI this thread made me buy several moons ago! (But then it replaced a Weller "gun" I've had for 35 years and a wood-burning iron which I've "resharpened" a dozen times with a file. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif )

Larry


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## Darell (Jan 2, 2005)

Using my Metcal gives me the warm fuzzies. Had a Hakko (which worked really very well, BTW) and now use a Metcal. It would be tough to go back. These things will spoil you.


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## tvodrd (Jan 2, 2005)

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad71.gif Darell /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Larry


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## LitFuse (Jan 2, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*tvodrd said:*
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad71.gif Darell /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Larry 

[/ QUOTE ]

That peer pressure will get you Larry. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I'll send you a link the next time I see something exceptional. 

I couldn't help but notice that you dropped some big bucks on a Beast lately. I guess you gotta have priorities, but the warm fuzzies that the Metcal provides each time can't be discounted...

Peter


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## tvodrd (Jan 2, 2005)

You too LitFuse! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad71.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Hey, I've been using a Weller TCPN or something like that at work for several years. I recently bought a new tip for it and some adam-henry dropped the SOB on said tip, ruining it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rant.gif What I said about the 25-year old gun and wood-burning pencil is for real. The CSI has been "heaven" relatively speaking, and I love it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif

Larry


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## Darell (Jan 3, 2005)

Well, using a Metcal makes me *feel* like a real soldering master, regardless of my actual skill. One thing that amazes me is that I spent a couple of years with the Hakko and NEVER changed the tip - though I had several extras. With the Metcal, I swap tips all the time. Takes about 10 seconds to get a cold tip up to temp and you're off to the races. I have more money in Metcal tips now than I had in the complete Hakko! It is REALLY nice to have just the right size/temp tip for the job. Again - I'm totally spoiled with this!


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## tylerdurden (Jan 3, 2005)

It *is* a big pain in the *** to change tips on the hakko. If you regularly need different tips, it's probably best to buy two hakkos and stack em (or get a metcal, duh). It was much easier to change tips on my el-cheapo weller station, but the hakko is so much better in ever other respect that it still can't compare.


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## pbarrette (Jan 4, 2005)

Hi all,

Looking at the pictures, has anyone considered the idea that the CSI and the Hako base units are made by the same mfg but the wands are different? Those posts that say there quality differences seem to be speaking mainly about the wand and its attached cable.

I just bought an el-cheapo (40 euro) temp controlled soldering station made by some german company. I can't remember the brand offhand, but I'll check when I get home. I dumped my 15-30W ratshack iron when I moved here a few months back because I didn't want to run a 240->120V transformer just to do some soldering.

This makes my new German unit my first soldering "station" and I must say that I really like having a smaller wand and a dial temp-control. It's all labeled in centigrade, so I end up doing some rough mental calculations to get me back to F, but I can now really appreciate how people can spend so much money on soldering irons.

pb


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## pkjames (Jan 4, 2005)

Bought a hakko 936 recently, great unit!!! YOU WON'T REGRET!!


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## ODatsBright (Jan 6, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*tylerdurden said:*
It *is* a big pain in the *** to change tips on the hakko. If you regularly need different tips, it's probably best to buy two hakkos and stack em (or get a metcal, duh). It was much easier to change tips on my el-cheapo weller station, but the hakko is so much better in ever other respect that it still can't compare. 

[/ QUOTE ]

Not by my choosing but I ordered the wrong hakko. I got the 936-11 with the 900S-ESD wand. I was just going to get the 907 wand but the cost of the 907 wand and another holder was MORE than the complete new soldering station 936-12. I'll see how much I change between the micro and regular tips, if its not much I'll probably be selling the micro one on B/S/T. Those of you looking for one or if you just want the station let me know or keep your eyes out in the B/S/T.


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## KevinL (Jan 7, 2005)

Hmm.....now you guys have me interested. My existing $8 soldering iron is going south, part of the tip is un-wettable, nothing sticks to it. 

Dangit these lights are costing me a fortune..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/broke.gif


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## pbarrette (Jan 7, 2005)

Hi all,

As promised, though a couple of days late..

My soldering station is made by a company called CFH GmbH and is called the LS-30. As such, it's a 30W temp regulated station with a dial from 150C-450C (302F-842F).

The website is here and the link to my specific station is here.

pb


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## Chop (Jan 7, 2005)

Boy, this thread just came back to life.


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## rwolff (Jan 8, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]

part of the tip is un-wettable, nothing sticks to it.


[/ QUOTE ]

Are replacement tips available? If so, that's the easy way. If not, or if it's siezed (forgot the anti-sieze I mentioned in "Soldering 101"?), try filing it down to bare copper (when it's cold), then re-tinning it as soon as it gets hot enough to melt solder (if you wait too long, the copper will oxidize, and you'll have to file it again).


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## KevinL (Jan 10, 2005)

I didn't realize the tip was field replaceable till I bought a new iron of similar design but different brand and they mentioned that it was field replaceable. Oh well, both are cheap and cheerful until I can get something like a Hakko 936. I don't build much these days, just the occasional wire-to-wire connection or inserting a resistor somewhere.

The good thing about using a < $9.95 iron is that you don't really lose sleep over what happens to it. This one has lived through hundreds of connections, abuse, mishandling from a newbie operator (back then), so guess it's time to replace it anyway /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif 

Thanks for the tip, I did think about sanding it. It's good to know there exists a stopgap solution to be used in the event that nothing else is available.


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## PEU (Jan 10, 2005)

For the ones that owns a CSI unit, is there a simple way to modify it to 220v? and No, using a 110-220v transformer is not what I'm talking about.

Thanks


Pablo


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## ODatsBright (Jan 10, 2005)

After using a Hakko 936 with the 907 iron, I'll never used a 'stick' iron again. That thing is unbeleivable, feels great in your hand and does a supurb job. I can't imagine using one of the even better irons. 

I ended up getting a second Hakko cause I ordered the first one wrong (I got the 900 iron which is for really small stuff). The cost of the stand and 907 iron was more than the entire station package, go figure.

Anyway, ANYONE thinking about getting a station I'd personally say get the Hakko or the CSI unit, you will definately NOT regret it. Flip the switch and <30 seconds later you're soldering....


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## PEU (Jan 12, 2005)

is doable the 110-220 conversion? Thanks


Pablo


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## pbarrette (Jan 12, 2005)

Hi PEU,

I can't comment on the CSI unit specifically, but I have seen others that look exactly like the Hakko/CSI unit on ebay that are 220v models.

So while I assume that the CSI->220v conversion isn't that simple, there appear to be differently branded clones that are already set for 220v.

I'm guessing that it's just a mains transformer swap and that the stock CSI transformer doesn't include the 220v taps on it.

If anyone has had one of these open, you could check the transformer for unused taps to verify.

pb


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## Darell (Jan 12, 2005)

Somewhere in the dark recesses of my mind I think I remember hearing that the Hakkos were easy to switch over to 220V, so you may be in luck. My guess is that they're sold both ways... somewhere.


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## Wingerr (Feb 14, 2005)

Got the digital version, rather than the $35 base model; digital readout is handy in letting you know when it's warmed up and ready to go.


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## .308 (Feb 27, 2005)

What is a good station to buy? I haven't soldered much but I have a very cheap pen type iron and want to upgrade. I have read here that Metcal is the best, but I never see a model(s) mentioned. I also see that Hakko is a favorable brand. What does one look for? I don't have an unlimited budget, but would happily spend $30-$40 more for a better tool. I usually subscribe to the belief you get what you pay for. Thanks in advance.
Chris


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## markdi (Feb 27, 2005)

you could get the ultimate soldering tool

the battery powered(4 aa cells)cold heat soldering iron.

cold is right - ha ha ha ha ha

I can make better solder connections with a bic lighter needle nosed vice grips and a inch or two of 12 guage copper
wire.


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## NewBie (Feb 27, 2005)

So thats who makes those irons I boxed up and threw away.

Metcal systems are like the difference between a Porsche and a mo-ped, without the maintenance issues.


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## Chop (Feb 27, 2005)

For $30 - $40, the CSI unit is probably about as good as you're going to get. A new Hakko will run you about $100 and a new Metcal will run you 3 or 4 times that much. You can get a decent used metcal for around $200 or so.


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## .308 (Feb 27, 2005)

Thanks for the answers. What model #'s for Metcal & Hakko should I look for?
Chris


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## markdi (Feb 27, 2005)

I have a metcal and a weller wtcps 

the wtcps can be found cheap used.

it is a 60 watt temp controled soldering station

I bet it is better for general soldering duties than the 
100 dollar hakko


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## cy (Feb 27, 2005)

I've decided to get a Metcal. going to go looking on ebay. what models are acceptable? which tip #'s are needed?


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## tylerdurden (Feb 27, 2005)

I've had the weller and the hakko, and the hakko is better. The only advantage the weller has is that the tips are easier to change, but the hakko has a wider selection.

The price difference, however, is significant, and the performance difference is not that big.


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## Chop (Feb 27, 2005)

I picked up a Metcal MX500 on ebay for under $200. It was in as new condition. All I can say about this unit is that I can't imagine working with anything else. It transfers heat quick and keep the temps up. This really helps when you're soldering large pieces.


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## cy (Feb 27, 2005)

chop, thanks I'll be shopping for a MX500. hopefully I'll keep it way under $200.


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## NewBie (Mar 3, 2005)

I think AilSnail got his Metcal complete with multiple tips for just over 100 dollars.

If you a patient, you can pick up a used Metcal for less.


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## PEU (Mar 25, 2005)

After considering importing a soldering station or purchasing it at the local market, I decided to go local...

I went for a Japan made goot RX711AS station 







Here are the specs goot RX711AS <font color="pink"> </font> 

it set me back $225 tax included with an extra 0.4mm tip /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


Pablo


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## Chop (Mar 25, 2005)

PEU,

That wand looks a whole lot like the one on the Hakko. You should like it a lot. The only recommendation that I can make is to get a large chisel tip. I have one that's about 6mm wide and it makes very short work of soldering large items, such as the ground wire to an ecan, or solder the converter to the ecan. Mine is a Metcal 700 degree tip and it heats the ecan to solder temp in about 10 seconds.


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## PEU (Mar 25, 2005)

Tony, did you tried to make tips on the minilathe? 

Im thinking on buying some copper stock to try, tips are expensive here!!!


Pablo


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