# Ronson Windlite disassembly help



## eluminator (Apr 28, 2006)

I got a Varaflame Windlite. It leaks badly. How do I disassemble it?

I removed the fill valve. Now I'm stumped.

How do I remove the case? Can the fill valve be disassembled? 

I notice there is a cylinder attached to the lid by an allen head screw. What is it's function? Should I disassemble it?

Where can I download the Windlite repair video?


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## [email protected] (Apr 28, 2006)

You can take it apart further by unscrewing the flint tube, much like the filler valve.  After that the top of the lighter can be removed.
The cilinder in the lid presses against the flame valve to keep it shut. Unscrewing it won't help anything.


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## chaka (Apr 28, 2006)

From Xochi:


> The way to get the lighter apart is to remove the brass piece that lines the tube that holds the flint and flint spring. I did this by filing out the middle of an appropriately sized flathead screwdriver bit with a chainsaw file. I have heard that others used needlenose pliers.
> 
> If you remove the piece that covers the flint chamber on the bottom of the lighter you will see the brass piece I'm talking about. Unscrewing this piece will allow the flip lid , windscreen, adjuster wheel , etc. to be removed.
> 
> ...


 
Good luck!
Chaka


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## eluminator (Apr 28, 2006)

Thanks guys. CPF to the rescue. Now I see the notches on the flint tube. Darn, the fill valve was easier. This thing will require some filing to make a tool. 

After removing the fill valve I noticed a braided cord in the fuel tank. I fished one end out with a wire. Its 5 inches long. The other end is apparently anchored at the top of the lighter. It runs up along side the circular brass thing that I assume is the valve that opens when the lid is opened, and disappears out of sight.

Is this normal? It seems weird to me.


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## eluminator (Apr 28, 2006)

I see the notches in the flint tube are very shallow. Apparently the flange of the tube that is notched is quite thin. I'll need a perfect tool. If the tube doesn't unscrew easily, it won't unscrew at all. I don't think that notched flange can take much torque without being damaged.


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## eluminator (May 3, 2006)

I'm making progress. The lighter seems to be working okay. Time will tell.

I find most of the butane that is emitted from the lighter flows on the outside of the hollow tube, not through the tube. It comes out of the lighter from the slight gap between the tube and the flame adjustment nut. Is this the way it's supposed to work?

By the way, I opened up a Calico disposable adjustable lighter. It's nicely made and has some interesting and useful small parts. I couldn't fit the small rubber piece in the end of the Windlite's tube though. The hole was so shallow that the rubber would fall out. I ended up building the rubber piece "in situ" using silicone RTV rubber.


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## Roy82 (May 3, 2006)

I just got a windlite also. I did damage the flint tube a bit unscrewing it with needlenose pliers, it certainly is soft. 

It was leaking from the fill valve (seal) and badly under the adjustment wheel. And I was clever enough to lose the little spring onto the floor; now its gone for good I think . Hopefully a disposable (Bic?) has a tiny spring and some seals!


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## eluminator (May 4, 2006)

Brass is weaker (softer) than steel. You learned that from the "hands on" method.

I'm guessing the best places to find that little spring are to get on your hands and knees with a flashlight, or buy another Windlite.

I didn't find anything usable in a Bic.

In my limited experience, the adjustable disposables have considerably more parts than the Bics. I used a Calico I found for sale on the counter of an auto parts store. Subsequently I noticed that Kmart had them. I haven't opened up an adjustable Scripto, but that might be similar. I haven't yet seen a spring small enough to work in the Windlite.

I'm about ready to drop my Windlite project. I can't seem to get much butane into it. I get a lot of leakage when I try. Maybe there is an adapter I could use to interface a modern can of butane with this old lighter.


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## emrbrtn (May 6, 2006)

eluminator said:


> I can't seem to get much butane into it. I get a lot of leakage when I try. Maybe there is an adapter I could use to interface a modern can of butane with this old lighter.



Same here. It seems to require alot more pressure to fill than my butane canister wants to give, the butane sprays all over with almost none going into the tank.


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## cy (May 6, 2006)

I've had no problems getting butane into windlite. ronson butane is easy to find. 

I'm also needing the small rubber parts to seal windlite. does anyone know what brand disposable light to get?


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## eluminator (May 6, 2006)

Yes, you have to press much harder to open the inlet valve in the Windlite. But the real problem is the tube on modern butane refill cartridges doesn't seem to seal with the Windlite valve. 

The Windlite inlet valve is obviously much different than those in modern lighters. Years ago, butane refill cans came with several adapters to fit various lighters. The ones I buy today don't have the adapters. Apparently modern lighters all have inlet valves that have a similar interface, and it's different from the Windlite.

All that is probably needed is some plastic adapter that fits on the tip of the cartridge, but I have no idea how to get or make one.

I have no idea how much butane I put in the Windlite tank, but I don't think I've ever gotten much in. It doesn't last long, and I don't think it leaks.


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## eluminator (May 6, 2006)

cy said:


> I'm also needing the small rubber parts to seal windlite. does anyone know what brand disposable light to get?



I used the larger o-ring from a Calico disposable adjustable lighter. I used it to replace the seal between the valve seat and the valve body. The little rubber plug on the end of the tube could possibly be used to replace the one in the Windlite, but I had difficulty keeping it in place when I had glue on it, so I just used RTV silicone.


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## cy (May 6, 2006)

where did you find the calico lighters?


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## eluminator (May 6, 2006)

I just got a second Windlite. It seems to be newer. All the rubber parts seem to be in good shape. On the bottom it says Woodbridge NJ where the other one says int' nat'l pat's.

The rod in the outlet valve is solid and has no spring. The rubber on the end is shaped differently as is the end of the rod. The rubber fell off when I removed it. I used a dab of RTV silicone to reattach it. It's curing now. We'll see if it works.

The inlet valve seems to be slightly different, because it didn't leak much butane when I put some butane in the lighter. The lighter was leaking badly though, so I didn't try to put much in. The outlet valve body was loose. I think that was what was leaking.

I found some butane cans on eBay that come with 5 or 6 adapters. I ordered some and hope they will cure the leakage problem when filling the older Windlite.

This one also has the braided cord stuck in the hole of the outlet valve. It still seems strange to me.


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## Roy82 (May 6, 2006)

The only gas I can find over here is Ventti, which come with little plastic adapters. It didn't work well without an adapter. The #1 adapter seems to be about the right shape for the area around the needle however. 

I'll have to go hunting for this calico lighter too. Our KMart only sells Bics at the cigarette counter I believe:thumbsdow. Have to try some $2 shops or smoking shops for something adjustable.


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## eluminator (May 6, 2006)

cy said:


> where did you find the calico lighters?


I spotted the Calico lighters on the counter of an auto parts store, so I bought one. I subsequently noticed that Kmart had them near the checkout counter. Apparently there are lots of them around.

I broke mine open, but that may not be necessary. I'm not sure. I know you can remove the spark wheel without breaking anything. Then you can remove the lever you operate with your thumb. Then I think you can unscrew the burner.

I think the important thing is to get an adjustable flame lighter. The Bic is non-adjustable which makes it simpler and the Bic has no o-rings. Also the rubber tipped tube is bigger in the Bic. The rubber would never fit my older Windlite, but maybe it could be used in my newer one.


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## Roy82 (May 6, 2006)

Hrmm, my Windlite has Woodbridge NJ stamped on the bottom. I just read your post again...no spring :huh2:. I thought I was careful, so maybe I never lost a spring then...


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## eluminator (May 6, 2006)

Roy82 said:


> Hrmm, my Windlite has Woodbridge NJ stamped on the bottom. I just read your post again...no spring :huh2:. I thought I was careful, so maybe I never lost a spring then...



It's a good thing you read it, or you'd still be crawling around on the floor.


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## Roy82 (May 6, 2006)

Indeed! I even went through the rubbish bin. 

Thanks for all the tips :goodjob:


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## eluminator (May 6, 2006)

Here's a picture I found on the internet of a Calico lighter apparently sold by Ace hardware.

Mine was plain purple. Your color may vary.


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## cy (May 6, 2006)

thanks, will be rooting around Kmart and Ace for a calico. already torn apart several disosable lighter with no luck on correct sizing.


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## eluminator (May 9, 2006)

I had to check all the unused checkout aisles at Kmart. They were there, near the Ronson butane. You get a package of 3 for $1.79.







This isn't helping me much though. I see two problems with the Windlite. It seems the inlet valve (fill valve) is impossible to disassemble. So if it's leaking, you are up the creek. The inlet valve on my almost new Woodbridge model leaks, so I replaced it with the one from my old, well used, Windlite.

The other problem I have with the Windlites is the difficulty replacing the rubber on the tip of the tube or rod. It couldn't have been designed worse. If you want to see how the rubber tipped tube should be designed, take a look at the Calico.


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## eluminator (May 15, 2006)

I can now refill the Windlite without leaking butane. I slip about ¾ inch of small rubber hose over the nozzle of the butane can. A little water as a lubricant helps. I use windshield washer hose for my '94 Plymouth. It has a thinner wall than some windshield washer hose.


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## eluminator (May 15, 2006)

I fixed my "Woodbridge NJ" model Windlite. No more leaks. The problem with the Windlites is it's almost impossible to mount the rubber on the end of the rod. 

The Calico disposable lighter has a tube that's easy to mount the rubber tip to. Fortunately the lower end of the Calico tube, where the rubber is, has the same diameter as the rod in the "Woodbridge" Windlite. So I used the Calico tube in the Windlite. 

The upper portion of the Calico tube has a bigger diameter but I found I could turn it down with a makeshift lathe. I put the lower end of the tube in a drill chuck. I had to tighten it carefully so the end wouldn't be crushed. I mounted a file in a small vise, held the drill in my hands, and ground the tube down. If I had a way to mount the drill, I could have done it that way, by holding the file in my hand.

High precision is not required here. It's only necessary that the upper part of the tube passes easily through the adjusting nut.

The Calico tube is shorter than the Windlite rod. I expected I would have to extend it, but I didn't need to. 

The Calico tube can't be used in my "int' nat'l pat's" model because that rod has a smaller diameter.








From left to right:
1: Original Calico tube.
2: Calico tube turned down for use in the "Woodbridge" Windlite.
3: Original "Woodbridge" rod.
4: Rod from the "int' nat'l pat's" valve showing the smaller diameter.


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## chaka (May 16, 2006)

maybe this can be useful: Ronson Repair


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## eluminator (May 17, 2006)

I finally figured out how to fix the rubber tip on the old "int' nat'l pat's" outlet valve. That's the one that has the thin brass tube. 

The rubber tip from the Calico would do the job but the hole in the end of the tube was too shallow. So I drilled it deeper. Now the Calico tip slips right in and gives a good seal. 

Ideally you would want to use a drill that makes a snug hole so the rubber tip won't fall out when you disassemble it. I'm not sure of the drill size, but it's somewhere around a #57. I wouldn't drill it too deeply. It's probably best that the rubber bottoms out in the hole rather than depending on the "flange" to keep it from going in too far.

After the rubber is inserted, the "flange" around the top has too large a diameter, but it is easily trimmed down with a razor blade so it's diameter is no bigger than the brass tube.


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