# Alky AA stuck in a piece I really want to save



## Bimmerboy (Sep 10, 2008)

An appeal to anyone with the know-how to solve this problem.

About 13 - 15 years ago, I bought a 1AA TacStar extension for my Minimag, which also included a metal reflector, and a higher output Xenon (or Krypton, or some crap...) bulb. It was my very first "mod".

The thing's been sitting around for years with no freakin' problem whatsoever, and I even had it apart for insection about a year ago. Within the past X number of months, it seems *all freakin' three* Energizer AA's (which were getting close to due date) leaked out their crud, permanently locking the two batteries into the original MM tube, and one in the screw-on extension.

After getting the extension off, I proceeded to ruin the main tube trying to get those two batts out any way I could. Hammers, and metal rods to punch the batts out from the top didn't work... got dark grey alky poop splattered on me... worked up a real sweat... whatever energy was left in those things heated up the tube due to shorting... the whole bit. I valiantly tried to save it from any damage. Long story short, it's a goner.

But now, the extension. It's irreplaceable, and I don't want to lose it, or scratch the living daylights out of it. But there's a leaked P.O.S. alky stuck in it, and I can't even get the stock MM tailcap off the end of it. I tried with rubber gloves on both hands... not even a HINT of being able to unscrew the tailcap.

Help?!

Someone gave me some medium-light penetrating oil tonight to try dissolving my way through, but I haven't tried it yet. Is it worth a shot? Will oil break down, and loosen the cement-hard compound produced by dried alky crap? Anyone have a way to salvage this thing?

I'll post pics if it helps.


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## gadget_lover (Sep 10, 2008)

I do NOT know if this will work, but it might.

Since the alkaline is leaking, drops of a light acid (vinegar) around the edges might dissolve the leakage. Add a few drops, let it react, then rinse with water and repeat.

I've used vinegar to clean the contacts when the batteries leak, and the residue just disappears.

Let me know if you try it and if it works.

Daniel


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## Torque1st (Sep 10, 2008)

Carefully use a drill bit to remove the battery internals on a drill press. Start with a 3/8" dia bit. This is not something to use a hand drill for. The Vinegar will remove the deposits when you have the battery remains out. 

The batteries did not short out and heat up the tube. The chemicals inside the battery leaked out of the battery case and onto the tube "cementing" them together with corrosion products.

Any battery can cause this problem. More power in the battery means more corrosive internal chemicals.


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## Bimmerboy (Sep 12, 2008)

Gadget - The _acid dissolving the alkaline_ idea sounded very interesting, so I tried it. It would've well worked, but instead of success, I learned something new as a consolation.

Never underestimate the sealing ability of an old Minimag tailcap. Granted, it saw pampered use, but it's older than most people's underwear (not all ya'lls briefs though... you know who you are ), and it's never been maintained. No cleaning since day one, and never lubed... dry as a bone.

Well, that sucka' didn't seem to have let one vinegar molecule near the threads. It soaked in a few inches worth for 3 freakin' hours. Tailcap still won't budge. However, there's a fully exposed contact spring on top of this piece which started building up it's own corrosion in sympathy with the leaking batts. The 5% acid, red wine vinegar dissolved the corrosion off the spring within seconds, so it suggest the principle is sound. Just couldn't get through the MM's well designed seal. Hats off to Mag. They really do design a solid, reliable host.

Torque - If this extension thing was designed well, or at least less stupidly, your suggestion would be possible. Unfortunately, there's a plastic spacer/contact spring arrangement going on here between the third batt, and the other two. To drill from the top would destroy that component. I'll get the camera out within the next day or two to show what I mean.

BTW, the tube heating was in reference to my punching a large, flat ended screwdriver through the positive end of the top alky in the stock MM tube. Drove almost a full inch into it after only two or three hits (hence, my getting splattered with the internal concoction). No mistaking the chemically induced reaction that happened as a result. Cool as a cucumber one minute, noticeably above ambient after that. Interesting to see there was enough potential left in the batts to cause this... but I digress.

Gonna' try soaking in penetrating oil next. Will report back.


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## Torque1st (Sep 12, 2008)

I still doubt there was an electrical "short" causing the warming, just some chemical reactions when you mixed things up. It does not take much to do that.

Can you pry the plastic spacer out and then drill?


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## jchoo (Sep 12, 2008)

Bimmerboy said:


> Gadget - The _acid dissolving the alkaline_ idea sounded very interesting, so I tried it. It would've well worked, but instead of success, I learned something new as a consolation.
> 
> Never underestimate the sealing ability of an old Minimag tailcap. Granted, it saw pampered use, but it's older than most people's underwear (not all ya'lls briefs though... you know who you are ), and it's never been maintained. No cleaning since day one, and never lubed... dry as a bone.
> 
> ...



I would recommend securing the minimag tail into a vise (you don't care about the tailcap, right?) and using a strap wrench to break loose the body you're trying to rescue. You could also line the vise jaws with heavy (1/8" or thicker) leather and clamp on your body, being extremely careful not to crush it, and use vise grips on the tailcap. Either way, you'll get that thing open - you just need to put a little uumph into it.


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## bfg9000 (Sep 12, 2008)

What's the rush, that requires hammers and makes "3 freakin' hours" such a long time?

People in the rust belt know you spray PB Blaster (or Kroil, or GM heat riser lube) on the stuck part *every day for a week* before you even try to budge things, or they'll snap off. The plastic and aluminum means no blue tipped wrench (torch) either.

Just drill a tiny hole in the tailcap and let it soak in penetrating oil for awhile. No point in hurrying to destroy it.


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## MorePower (Sep 12, 2008)

Torque1st said:


> I still doubt there was an electrical "short" causing the warming, just some chemical reactions when you mixed things up. It does not take much to do that.
> 
> Can you pry the plastic spacer out and then drill?



Shorting the battery by driving a screwdriver through the outer can and into the anode caused a chemical reaction to take place.

So.... in a sense, you're both right.


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## Bimmerboy (Sep 14, 2008)

bfg9000 - No rush on breaking the extension loose, especially after destroying the main tube, which I really wish I'd have saved for originality's sake. I did make an attempt to be careful at first... but after initial damage, things became a bit of a free-for-all. If this item is salvageable, I'm willing to take the time neccessary.

Speaking of which... soaking in the beforementioned penetrating (and quite strong smelling) oil began at 9:00 AM yesterday morning. It's already been swished around a few times to ensure the body/tailcap join stays wet. We'll see what happens. 

BTW... the name "Kroil" rings a bell (from a good while ago). I suspect PB Blaster, and GM-HRL are essentially the same substance?

Blue tipped wrench?! Dude... I ain't THAT impatient! Though you've now made me wonder what black ano brulee' might look like. :devil: 

Last, but not least, someone else (non-internet) also suggested drilling through the center of the tailcap to let the oil in. If plain soaking doesn't do the trick, that's the next step.

Thanks, bfg!


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## Torque1st (Sep 14, 2008)

Drill a big hole and keep on going.


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## KowShak (Sep 14, 2008)

Once you get oil into the battery residue thats no doubt clogging your threads you won't be able to use vinegar on it, it'll be water (and probably vinegar) repellant.

You tried vinegar on the corrosion residue and it worked. Has the oil had a similar effect? If it has not there is no point in using it, stick to what you know works. If you're not bothered about saving the tailcap, drill a hole in the end of it and fill the end of the torch with vinegar, that should get it into the threads where it can dissolve or at least soften the corroded mess inside.

Your extension tube is a soft aluminium tube, if you grip it in the vice it will distort and that will make the threads tighter than they already are. The tailcap is less prone to being squashed by being clamped in a vice.


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## Sgt. LED (Sep 15, 2008)

Boil it!
For a long time.


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## gadget_lover (Sep 16, 2008)

I'm not a chemist, nor do I play one on TV, Stage or even Youtube.

But is it a good idea to boil an alkali, creating fumes and a caustic stew?


I really don't know.

Daniel


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## Sgt. LED (Sep 16, 2008)

:shrug:

Maybe Si maybe No. I bet it would work though! 
Try it outside in an old pot on a hotplate!


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## HarryN (Sep 18, 2008)

I have had some luck separating parts by getting them to different temperatures. One time I cooled the entire assy down with dry ice, then a quick fast heat of the outside with hot water.

A few cycles of this will free up many things that are supposed to stay together. Of course, LN2 is better, but dry ice is more available. Locally, some of the grocery stores have dry ice now.

Goves and eye protection are a must with dry ice. I use a face shield with LN2, but some people don't seem to mind risking facial scarring.


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## KowShak (Sep 18, 2008)

gadget_lover said:


> I'm not a chemist, nor do I play one on TV, Stage or even Youtube.
> 
> But is it a good idea to boil an alkali, creating fumes and a caustic stew?
> 
> ...


 
If you boil it in vinegar you are not going to produce a caustic stew because vinegar is an acid and will neutralise any alkali that it comes into contact with. Since I don't know whats in the batteries I can't say one way or the other whether the chemical reaction will produce noxious fumes or not.

As mentioned above there are plastic parts, they might melt if you get them too hot, boiling might not be a good idea, but soaking overnight might be a better one.


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