# Armytek Wizard Pro XHP50 V3 field use review.



## Woods Walker (Dec 1, 2016)

Company info:

https://www.armytek.com/products/fl...rmytek-wizard-pro-v3-xhp-50-white-silver.html



> Superb light of amazing constant brightness due to powerful electronics and active temperature control without timers
> Multi-flashlight “10 in 1" is for many activities: car, fishing, hunting, home, work, city, picnic, bike, outdoor, travel
> Efficient TIR-optics and no “tunnel vision” effect even after continuous use
> Multicolor Warning Indication of low battery level and high temperature
> ...



With that out of the way here is a little background. I purchased an Armytek Tiara Pro V2 "w" some time ago. It has been on many adventures providing good service. Wonderful headlamp friendly beam profile and tint. Very high turbo mode and low low firefly. It can run NiMH, Lithium AA primaries, alkaline and lithium ion. Basically if the batteries are AA sized and under 4.2 volts that's a go! 

Armytek Tiara V2 Pro XM-L w. 







As stated it's really good but I craved even more power and longer run times also what kinda name is "Tiara" anyways. I heard there was a new LED which could push 2000 lumens from 1X18650. Heard that AT had a V3 Wizard headlamp using the XHP50. Heard there was a 30% off sale. Making a long story short purchased the new headlamp over a month ago and been using it. For size comparison. Tiara on the left, Wizard on the right.







The newest version, Wizard Pro XHP50 w. 











Shares the same optic etc as the Tiara and older versions of the line. It's a very good optic and window for a headlamp. It projects a floody beam with some punch. I couldn't be happier with the beam profile for many applications. It's not 100% perfect for everything but does so many headlamp jobs very well.







Same beefy tail cap spring which can be found in the Tiara and Prime EDC lights. In fact the tail caps are interchangeable. The prepper in me likes that.







The double O rings came properly lubricated.







The voltage is listed from 2.4 to 9 volts so many battery types will work. Make certain to use higher drain protected lithium ion or un protected lithium ion to access the higher levels. I have read lower than 7A will result in decreased performance and/or tripping the protection circuit. I run 3500 mAh unprotected 18650 or Protected 3500 with up to 10A. Though had luck with batteries which I thought wouldn't work properly as well. Best to test out the batteries and light combo before fielding the gear.

2Xcr123 Lithium primaries.
2x16340 Lithium ion.
1X18650 Lithium ion.






It will run both protected and unprotected lithium ion batteries. The Wizard can be set for 1X lithium ion, 2x cr123 or 2x lithium ion. Armytek stated (if my memory is correct) when set for lithium ion the light will shut down at 2.6 volts but I always change the batteries when it fails to operate Main 2 Tier 1 aka 30 lumens properly. The voltage tends to be in the upper 2s to sometimes 3 at that point. Goes without saying it could run longer if needed on lower modes but prefer not to run down my lithium ions.







The power switch can indicate low voltage and/or overheating by going from green to yellow to finally red with a changing frequency of flashes. It can get very warm in the highest modes but I hardly ever actually use those. I find the voltage indication to be more of a rough guide than precise measure. Generally it will start to turn before the performance of the light indicates lower voltage. So it is mildly useful when first turned but IMHO it's limited but not totally worthless. At least not on my example. On side note the green LED can be set to flash all the time as a marker. Unless set it will flash on modes higher the firefly. I think it would take decades for the drain from the green light to deplete the battery.






Took me about 20 photos to actually capture this flash. I was hopelessly out of sync.







I normally charge the 3500 mAh 18650 high drain unprotected lithium ion starting at around this level to about 4.2 volts if possible. 







This is a complex gear item and frankly I don't use all the features. I prefer to just use stuff and see how it works rather than humping the numbers. So lets go!


Field testing.


If something has a water resistance rating (IXP) I like to test for that. Better to find out in a semi controlled situation in as much as night hiking is ever totally under control. If it's rated for a good dunk should the opportunity should arise I will submerse the gear. Opps....












I used a very precise scientific methodology to determine time, depth and other factors making the dunk test fair and uniform across the board. For example this time I walked 100 or so feet from the brook to take a ****. Then kinda pondered how cold the wet headband would feel like for the rest of the hike. Thought about the bear signings in the area as it was dark. Pure science wins again. The water rating held! At least good enough for my purposes. No sign of water intrusion. 







Full insanely bright Turbo mode. It's just too bright. It's ok for the.....is that a bear or zombie.... moments but dang is it bright. I had a difficult time adjusting down the camera's contrast. I adjust that when taking field beam shots to best capture what I think is happening. Everyone sees things a bit differently to some extent IMHO. It is listed as 2400 LED/1800 out front lumens (minus 7% for NW LED not applied).







Turbo Mode 2. 900 lumens. Still crazy bright. 







Turbo Mode 1. I scampered down these rocks using Main 2 mode 3 but the leaves were too slippery for working two cameras. All the modes and the hike is within the video.












Main 2 mode 2. 165 lumens. One of my favorites for trail running. 







Firefly modes.

Firefly 1. 0.15 lumens. Too low for much of my usage but glad it is there.







Firefly 2. 1.5 lumens. Sometimes use it in doors or in camp.







Firefly 3. 5.5 lumens. One of my favorite modes. It's great for rooting around the pack and many jobs that don't involve swinging an axe in the dark




.


Looking inside my pack with Firefly 3.







Field use observations. Pros and Cons. 

Pros.

1. The clicky switch feels more responsive and solid than the one on my Tiara. Both work but for some reason this one feels and sounds better.

2. The Main 2 mode 1 30ish lumens runs for a long long time. It's a sweet spot in terms of long runtime and usefulness. I also really like Firefly 3

3. One of the best tinted NW lights I have ever used but that is within the eye of the beholder.

4. 18650 batteries are epic energy. I still like AA for when on the fly, shorter usage or within my BOB but lithium ions are really nice.

5. Near prefect (for me) headlamp beam profile. Not sure if it's good engineering or just an incredibly lucky accident but the Tiara and Wizard are floody enough for near headlamp range work but somehow can still see down trails or roads. 

6. Reasonably comfortable when running. In the video I run down dirt roads, over fallen trees and along abandoned rails. Considering the weight of the battery and entire body are on the forehead it didn't flop around all that much. I mean it wasn't perfect but rather ok. Also the Tiara headband and by extension Wizard is very very comfortable during cold weather. The silicone holder doesn't feel all that cold against the forehead.

7. I like the mode spacing better than the older Tiara UI however believe Armytek now uses the same UI for both. Don't quote me on that.

8. Highly water resistant. Beyond the dunk tests (done for both headlamps) I have ran with them for miles through heavy rain. Left them on the ground during heavy rain in camp. Walked for miles in soaking rain at night. I never worry about it. That's a good feeling.

9. Stupid bright.

10 UI has disco modes out of the way. Never accidentally activated them.

11. Tail cap lock out. This makes life easy. I just lock out the headlamp with a twist tossing it into my pack. I think accidental activation on turbo within a pack could get ugly. Then again it takes 3 clicks to hit turbo so not sure how that would happen. That said entropy isn't kinda so I lock it out.

12. I like the wide voltage range.

13. Not that heavy. Per my digital postal scale. XHP50 Wizard Pro V3 with naked 3500 mAh 4.9 ounces, without battery 3.6. Tiara Pro V2 with 840 mAh protected keepPower 3.2 ounces, without battery 2.9 however keep in mind the Wizard has an over the head strap as well.

Cons.

1. Stupid bright. Yup it's actually too bright on Turbo mode 1. That's ok as there is a Turbo mode 2. Still it's stupid bright. LOL But then again I guess that's also "Pro" number 9.

2. Gets really hot on the stupid bright mode.

3. Expensive. Buy this on sale unless you must own it now. Nearly 100 dollars is a great deal of money for this gear class for many consumers. I do think it's worth the money but even better on sale. For those who don't own a Wizard the XM-L or XP-L versons might also be good options as the prices will and are falling. Got an XM-L wizard for my uncle as a Christmas gift but don't tell him!

4. There maybe a micro flicker or more correctly pulse on Main 2 mode 1 or maybe it is my imagination. Doesn't harm the field usage so didn't include that observation within the video. 

5. Lithium ion and CR123 batteries can be problematical for purchase at the local B&M. One pro to lights using AA/AAA like the Tiara, Fenix HL30/50 or PT EOS is ready availability of inexpensive primary and NiMH batteries.

That's about it. Here is a video!



Edit to add.

I don't do intentional drop tests often because being a goober the drops will come soon enough. Here is the setup. I open the passenger side of my truck's door to grab my pack and some papers. However my pack is on top of the headlamp which then gets dragged off the seat tossing said headlamp which promptly bounces off the door hitting the driveway like a comet. At first I thought it was my phone but was happy to see it was the headlamp. A free drop test when failure would have no consequences other than mailing the light back for repair.

And there it is. Gotta love entropy. Without it we wouldn't be alive to know it will kill us one day.





No damage to bezel or glass.





Only the smallest of marks on the edge of the tail cap. On a side note this is actually a non pro tail cap. Put the one it came with on a 1x18650 Prime body. I don't really need a magnetic holder on a headlamp so changed it out.





Edit to add.

And another update. It appears AT has changed the harness with the Wizard. A new plastic one came attached to another Wizard I ordered this time a V3 not pro XP-L Cool White.







Ok the silicone harness had a few issues the biggest being it's a PITA to remove and replace the light. This negated IMHO it's EDC potential. 


New plastic harness installed on left, old silicone on right.







One pro is the potential to change out the entire light in the field without missing a step. Just swap out the bodies. Probably faster than changing the batteries.







Enough lets hit the woods.

















We are going to do 5 miles of moderately paced trail jogging. Moderately paced because of the load and terrain.


The following are beams from the XHP-50 main mode 2.







Some spots are good, actually probably the majority but all I tend to remember is the fallen trees and rocks.












Main mode 1.












Done.







Also used it tonight around the house. I think the plastic is an improvement over the silicone harness. That said this isn't my first rodeo with this concept.







I still have this headlamp but found the plastic harness too difficult to remove the light from and heard reports of the arms snapping off. The Wizard harness is easy enough to remove and the light didn't fall out during my run. Feels solidly in there but time will tell if it holds up.


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## chadvone (Dec 1, 2016)

Nothing between 28 and 167?

I use 50-70 ish most.
See they have a chargeable Wizard now.
I've been told can't use charge tail cap on older lights, waiting on AT to answer.

I would love magnetic charge tail cap that would usb charge all Wizards and Primes.
Thanks for review will check out video later.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 1, 2016)

chadvone said:


> Nothing between 28 and 167?
> 
> I use 50-70 ish most.
> See they have a chargeable Wizard now.
> ...



Yup. 3 modes on the main. I do like that the Tiara has been changed. Mine is like this.

Firefly1: 0.15lm / 90d
Firefly2: 1.7lm / 200h
Main1: 10 lm / 25h
Main2: 70 lm / 3h
Main3: 210 lm / 1.2h
Max: 370 lm / 30min
Strobe: 10Hz Beacon: 0.6Hz

Now they added the 30 lumen mode. So useful for an AA/CR123 given the increased runtimes etc etc. On the new Wizard the Main modes are listed at "363 lm (3h 30min), 167 lm (8h 30min), 28 lm (50h)"

But my gut says it's a little bit higher than 28 lumens. Maybe in the 30's however such distinctions are hard for the human eye to see and doesn't mean much in the woods. I also liked the 70 lumen mode on my Tiara so could see it being useful on the new wizard though what the 70 did on the Tiara the 167 does better on the new Wizard and what the 10 was too little and 70 too much the 30 does just fine. Not sure if there is any logic to what I just said. :laughing:

I am iffy about the USB charging thing for the wet and wild woods but who knows. Maybe it's all around better?


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## iamlucky13 (Dec 1, 2016)

1800 lumens is pretty incredible output. I don't know what I'd do with that much light, but it would sure be fun to play with.



Woods Walker said:


> also what kinda name is "Tiara" anyways.



I find it funny. They've got all these powerful, sometimes even dangerous-sounding product names like Predator, Doberman, Viking, etc. Even the less forward names like Prime or Partner still convey a sense of strength or reliability.

And then they name one after a dainty piece of jewelry. :thinking:



> On side note the green LED can be set to flash all the time as a marker. Unless set it will flash on modes higher the firefly.



Does your Tiara Pro do this, too? Mine flashes all the time it is on, even in firefly, which is terribly annoying since the flash is significantly brighter than the firefly output. Among it's other uses, the light is excellent as a nightlight when traveling and sleeping in dark, unfamiliar rooms, but I have to remember to cover the button.

Also comparing to the Tiara - is the Wizard actually lighter (without batteries) as claimed? The Tiara Pro is listed at 61g. The Wizard Pro is supposedly 48g.



> Firefly 1. 0.15 lumens. Too low for much of my usage but glad it is there.



Looking at the numbers, I thought 0.15 lumens would be uselessly dim. It's amazing how useful it is when your eyes are adjusted to the dark and you don't want to wake a sleeping spouse, however.


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## scs (Dec 1, 2016)

Should be able to turn off the blinking button for the low output group. Some combination of tailcap twist and button press and hold. See instructions for details.

I think the blinking button function should be revised so that (1) as a cell capacity indicator, it starts to blink only when the cell is low, say 20 percent remaining. (2) as a beacon, be configurable to be ON as it is now, but also be completely OFF when the light is on or off, for all output groups.

As it is, I don't think it is very useful. I don't need a reminder every 5 seconds that the cell has plenty of capacity left.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 2, 2016)

iamlucky13 said:


> 1800 lumens is pretty incredible output. I don't know what I'd do with that much light, but it would sure be fun to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



The lowest firefly is fun to keep running during an outing as don't care about the power loss aka to keep tack of my headlamp. Also good for pitch black rooms. Not useless but for me not used that often. I have a postal scale at another location so will check both the Tiara and Wizard with and without battery. My Tiara pro only flashes from Main 1 mode 1. Not the two firefly modes. I know the green light can be turned on all the time for the wizard but never heard that about the Tiara however AT seems to modify the UIs more often than some other manufactures and sometimes without communication to their customers.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 2, 2016)

scs said:


> Should be able to turn off the blinking button for the low output group. Some combination of tailcap twist and button press and hold. See instructions for details.
> 
> I think the blinking button function should be revised so that (1) as a cell capacity indicator, it starts to blink only when the cell is low, say 20 percent remaining. (2) as a beacon, be configurable to be ON as it is now, but also be completely OFF when the light is on or off, for all output groups.
> 
> As it is, I don't think it is very useful. I don't need a reminder every 5 seconds that the cell has plenty of capacity left.



Mine doesn't flash on the firefly modes in either the Tiara or the Wizard but can turn it on all the time in the Wizard. I think first twist the tail, then hold the button then twist off and on while still holding the button but that's off the top of my head so could be mistaken. Maybe firefly 3 in the wizard (or maybe not will check later). I agree with your assessment about the constant flashing on the upper modes. As it is on my head no big deal but sometimes find it distracting with the Primes. Personally I kinda prefer the standard versions over the pros. If I get another (looking at a C1 Tiara or if they ever seriously update the A1 Tiara) will probably get the regular model. I prefer the regular Prime over Pro and enjoy the UI of the standard Predator.


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## wawrik (Dec 2, 2016)

iamlucky13 said:


> Looking at the numbers, I thought 0.15 lumens would be uselessly dim. It's amazing how useful it is when your eyes are adjusted to the dark and you don't want to wake a sleeping spouse, however.


The 0.15 lm mode is still too bright for me, when I open my eyes in the middle of the night...


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## wawrik (Dec 2, 2016)

Woods Walker said:


> Mine doesn't flash on the firefly modes in either the Tiara or the Wizard but can turn it on all the time in the Wizard.


Mine Wizard Pro flashes two times (flash » gap 5 sec » flash) when I turn on firefly mode, even if Multicolor (battery) State Indication is switched off.


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## scs (Dec 2, 2016)

wawrik said:


> Mine Wizard Pro flashes two times (flash » gap 5 sec » flash) when I turn on firefly mode, even if Multicolor (battery) State Indication is switched off.



Mine does that as well. A minor bug. Not a big problem as it stays off after that.


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## scs (Dec 2, 2016)

Woods Walker said:


> Mine doesn't flash on the firefly modes in either the Tiara or the Wizard but can turn it on all the time in the Wizard. I think first twist the tail, then hold the button then twist off and on while still holding the button but that's off the top of my head so could be mistaken. Maybe firefly 3 in the wizard (or maybe not will check later). I agree with your assessment about the constant flashing on the upper modes. As it is on my head no big deal but sometimes find it distracting with the Primes. Personally I kinda prefer the standard versions over the pros. If I get another (looking at a C1 Tiara or if they ever seriously update the A1 Tiara) will probably get the regular model. I prefer the regular Prime over Pro and enjoy the UI of the standard Predator.



If I remember correctly, the regular version of the headlamps and Prime doesn't allow toggling between the main and firefly groups, which the pro versions allow via a double click. In other words, when the light is on and in main mode, you have to turn it off first and then press and hold for the firefly group. When in firefly group can you toggle between the 2 firefly modes on the regular version, or do you again have to turn it off first?


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## wawrik (Dec 2, 2016)

scs said:


> Mine does that as well. A minor bug. Not a big problem as it stays off after that.


I think it's a feature. You can see battery status, but it doesn't annoying you all the time.


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## DuncanHynes (Dec 2, 2016)

I love the XHP50 but that flashy beacon was the pits. I am left handed and the beacon was right above my left eye. And indoors it would actually create a false flicker too. I slowly pulled the yellow button off and covered the two mini LEDs with high quality electrical tape. Depending how you do it the lights are visible but I have mine all the way covered. It is easy to fiddle with. It cannot be turned off so something had to give.


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## scs (Dec 2, 2016)

wawrik said:


> I think it's a feature. You can see battery status, but it doesn't annoying you all the time.



Hehehe. "A feature; by design; specific to that batch..." I imagine that's how the AT rep would respond.


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## Tachead (Dec 2, 2016)

scs said:


> Hehehe. "A feature; by design; specific to that batch..." I imagine that's how the AT rep would respond.



The lights I have(not just the Wizard) do the two blinks then stop on the lower modes. As far as I know, all the lights with the indicator do this(Wizard Pro, Tiara C1 & A1, Prime C1,C2, A1, & A2 Pro, Partner C1, C2, A1, & A2 Pro). I am pretty sure it is supposed to so when you turn it on, you still get battery level indication before it stops. I think its a nice feature and would not want it to be off all the time.


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## tops2 (Dec 2, 2016)

I believe I turned off the flashing but it still flashes sometimes. I never really cared enough to fully test mine, but maybe if I start in firefly mode it won't flash. But if I start in normal mode, then toggle to firefly group, it may flash. But like I mentioned, I haven't tested it out.

@Woods Walker: One thing I'm a bit confused it it sounds like you have a neutral white version of the light? Is this the "white" version they mention on their website? According to one of your picture of the head of the light, its labeled "warm light". My "non warm" light has the label "white light" on the head. But in most of your pictures, it looks pretty (neutral) white and not warm...even though this could be either the picture or my monitor...


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## Woods Walker (Dec 2, 2016)

scs said:


> If I remember correctly, the regular version of the headlamps and Prime doesn't allow toggling between the main and firefly groups, which the pro versions allow via a double click. In other words, when the light is on and in main mode, you have to turn it off first and then press and hold for the firefly group. When in firefly group can you toggle between the 2 firefly modes on the regular version, or do you again have to turn it off first?



Let me test it out right now. Have a low voltage Prime regular in the house. Ok yes if I am interpenetrating your statement correctly and going to add that as another positive (for me) to the standard version.

You can double click from firefly to what looks like turbo then back again from on. Double clicking from off just turns the light on at the last memory mode then off. Double clicking from main puts it into turbo then back again. It's good. I got my uncle the standard version of the Wizard in XM-L. No flashing indicator light (which does not bother me in the least on the headlamps but more problematic on the Prime) and a bunch of other things which aren't (IMHO) needed.


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## scs (Dec 2, 2016)

Tachead said:


> The lights I have(not just the Wizard) do the two blinks then stop on the lower modes. As far as I know, all the lights with the indicator do this(Wizard Pro, Tiara C1 & A1, Prime C1,C2, A1, & A2 Pro, Partner C1, C2, A1, & A2 Pro). I am pretty sure it is supposed to so when you turn it on, you still get battery level indication before it stops. I think its a nice feature and would not want it to be off all the time.



If that's the intent behind the design, why isn't the same done for the other modes (the blinking cannot be turned off for the main and turbo groups). What makes 2 blinks suffice for the firefly group and insufficient for the main and turbo groups?


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## Woods Walker (Dec 2, 2016)

tops2 said:


> I believe I turned off the flashing but it still flashes sometimes. I never really cared enough to fully test mine, but maybe if I start in firefly mode it won't flash. But if I start in normal mode, then toggle to firefly group, it may flash. But like I mentioned, I haven't tested it out.
> 
> @Woods Walker: One thing I'm a bit confused it it sounds like you have a neutral white version of the light? Is this the "white" version they mention on their website? According to one of your picture of the head of the light, its labeled "warm light". My "non warm" light has the label "white light" on the head. But in most of your pictures, it looks pretty (neutral) white and not warm...even though this could be either the picture or my monitor...


I believe the white version means cool white and the warm version means neutral white. Zebralight also makes this technical mistake for their "w" models. In the video I call the light version by the name AT gave it however explain it's really NW (though IMHO on the little bit warm side of that in a good way aka no hint of green). So no question in my mind the "Warm" is NW and "White" is Cool White. The Green indicator light has ghosts in the machine. Maybe residual power in the circuit etc and often flashes a few times on firefly modes till stopping. Or maybe it's a feature telling me the battery is ok on those lower levels then stopping not to drown out the firefly. With AT you never know. LOL! That said the raw power of the high and fun of the lows plus winner tint makes this model a GO! Used it last night for a trail run finishing up at 11:31 pm. Did 2 miles walking during the day's normal activities then 5.7 miles night trail running with the wizard XHP50.


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## Tachead (Dec 2, 2016)

scs said:


> If that's the intent behind the design, why isn't the same done for the other modes (the blinking cannot be turned off for the main and turbo groups). What makes 2 blinks suffice for the firefly group and insufficient for the main and turbo groups?



My thinking is it doesn't need to go off for the higher output modes because they are bright enough that the blinking doesn't effect the situation. When you are in the lower modes(especially firefly) it is dark enough that the LED gets distracting so it is nice that it goes off. Also, in the higher modes watching for low voltage and temp warnings is more important. 

What I think they should have done is just make it turn on or off for all modes. That way it makes everyone happy and they can set it however they please. Then for safety, if turned off, it should still go on when it hits the low voltage or temperature warnings. 

But personally, I don't mind it at all the way it is. I like to be able to look down and see the battery level is when using the higher modes, I like that it goes off when using the low modes in the dark, and I like that I can set it to be on all the time as a beacon if I want to make it easier to find in certain situation(the Nitecore MH20 series has this feature too and its quite useful once and a while for me).

Just like any feature on a light, some like it some don't. If you don't, then you don't have to buy it.


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## scs (Dec 2, 2016)

Tachead said:


> ...What I think they should have done is just make it turn on or off for all modes. That way it makes everyone happy and they can set it however they please. Then for safety, if turned off, it should still go on when it hits the low voltage or temperature warnings...



I agree


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## PhantomPhoton (Dec 2, 2016)

This is my personal favorite flashlight for now. 

It has been to the top of several mountains and peaks, literally into an ice crusted alpine lake, across the Mojave in July, canyoneering up a river, through the NYC subway system, on patrol and SAR... no failures yet. 
The blinky button light has not bothered me a bit even when waking up at 3 am in the tent to crawl out into the cold and relieve myself.
Having that much output is incredible for helping a couple buddies scale rock cliff to get down to a the Deschutes river at 10pm or to find a campsite marker hidden by 3' of snow. The warm tint makes it far easier to find dog droppings on the wet Oregon forest floor while out camping in the rain.
18650s are easily recharged by solar in a day with a lightweight panel on my backpack and the magnetic mount makes it easy to stick on most things to get some extra light.
The UI is even decent, I really can't ask for much more in a light. 
Well worth every penny for serious/ professional light users and adventurers. And with a 20-30% discount that has happened with a couple websites it's a steal.


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## chumanji9 (Dec 3, 2016)

Just wondering. How long does it last in the brightest turbo mode before the brightness drops...if you run it in front of a small fan. And does it drop to the next lower mode? I was thinking of using it as my helmet light went I go bike riding in the woods.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 3, 2016)

chumanji9 said:


> Just wondering. How long does it last in the brightest turbo mode before the brightness drops...if you run it in front of a small fan. And does it drop to the next lower mode? I was thinking of using it as my helmet light went I go bike riding in the woods.



Honestly I don't know as don't use that mode for long as it gets hot and is so much brighter than I need. I don't do indoor testing of gear for the most part on religious grounds. LOL! not really just don't believe the results would be reflective of field usage. Who walks around with a fan blowing on their headlamp in the lower 70's outside of CPF. No body, that's who though have no issue with those who do as more info isn't bad. Tell you what. I am going for a night run now and will use it on max and will report back. Per siri "brr it's 35 f outside" though that doesn't impress me nor will it slow down the run.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 3, 2016)

iamlucky13 said:


> Also comparing to the Tiara - is the Wizard actually lighter (without batteries) as claimed? The Tiara Pro is listed at 61g. The Wizard Pro is supposedly 48g.


Per my digital postal scale. XHP50 Wizard Pro V3 with naked 3500 mAh 4.9 ounces, without battery 3.6. Tiara Pro V2 with 840 mAh protected keepPower 3.2 ounces, without battery 2.9 however keep in mind the Wizard has an over the head strap as well.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 3, 2016)

How long can it hold high without dropping. Went for a 7 mile street/dirt road jog tonight. It was 35F out. It says 9 but really already had two miles walking before the run.







Ran it on Turbo 1 for 30 minutes before I got tried of blinding cars on the road. Had to look away from on coming traffic as I swear it's brighter than car headlights on high. Also the reflective light off the signs was too much. Once again proved animals simply don't care if someone shines a bright light at them. Nearly 2000 lumens didn't impress an aggressive dog or shy coon. My crazy Hungarian antics did impress the dog who finally thought better of it's chances. Near as I could tell 30 minutes on the max turbo showed no reduction in output. When switching to Turbo 2 could see the same shift in output as always. Another 5 minutes on that before getting tired of too much light then down to Main mode 3 then finally Main mode 2. It was hot on Max but somehow felt maybe a bit less then when using it stationary. I never run the Max Turbo this long as don't have any need. I don't think the light really should be run that high all the time. The mass is kinda low for that IMHO.




This is exactly how the output appeared to my eyes on road running on Max Turbo.


The selfie!







Paved road.


It's just too bright. LOL! The camera did a good job of capturing how it looked to my eyes.














Dirt road.


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## chumanji9 (Dec 4, 2016)

Thanks for the Turbo Mode testing. This little light does look very impressive.


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## WigglyTheGreat (Dec 4, 2016)

Nice review as always Woods Walker. I have been watching this light since it was first announced. I always go for neutral whites in headlamps and the warm version looks nice with an excellent beam profile for all around use. I would like to see armytek put out a version without the honeycomb lens and just a clear lens for increased throw. It would make for a nice cycling helmet light if it had more throw. Better yet, give it interchangeable lenses or a clear lens and include a diffuser that attaches. I also think they dropped the ball in not giving it a ~70 lumen mode as that is a mode I would use the most hiking at night. Hopefully Armytek improve their quality control too as there has been some concern over it lately.
Thanks for the review!
🙋


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## WigglyTheGreat (Dec 4, 2016)

Duplicate Post


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## blindedbythenight (Dec 4, 2016)

I have a bone to pick with you....you and your review were the reason I got myself the nitecore HC30....now after reading and watching this...I want one! 
It is now your job to stop me spending money and convince me that the armytek is no better than the nitecore....
How much wider and fuller flood are we talking compared to the nitecore? And I'm guessing the nitecore still wins in throw?

Come on man...think of my bank balance....stop tempting me. Haha


----------



## Tachead (Dec 4, 2016)

WigglyTheGreat said:


> Nice review as always Woods Walker. I have been watching this light since it was first announced. I always go for neutral whites in headlamps and the warm version looks nice with an excellent beam profile for all around use. I would like to see armytek put out a version without the honeycomb lens and just a clear lens for increased throw. It would make for a nice cycling helmet light if it had more throw. Better yet, give it interchangeable lenses or a clear lens and include a diffuser that attaches. I also think they dropped the ball in not giving it a ~70 lumen mode as that is a mode I would use the most hiking at night. Hopefully Armytek improve their quality control too as there has been some concern over it lately.
> Thanks for the review!
> 



This light uses the Cree XHP50 which is a quad die emitter with rather large spacing between the 4 dies similar to the XHP70. I don't think you see a clear lens version of this light as the emitter would likely have some beam anomalies without some kind of diffused lens.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 4, 2016)

blindedbythenight said:


> I have a bone to pick with you....you and your review were the reason I got myself the nitecore HC30....now after reading and watching this...I want one!
> It is now your job to stop me spending money and convince me that the armytek is no better than the nitecore....
> How much wider and fuller flood are we talking compared to the nitecore? And I'm guessing the nitecore still wins in throw?
> 
> Come on man...think of my bank balance....stop tempting me. Haha


 LOL! Thanks! The Nitecore has more focused beam than the Armytek Wizard or Tiara. In fact it seems to work better in the mist and rain so take the HC30 when night trail running in those conditions. Still overall prefer the AT headlamp beam pattern for the majority of conditions. I should do a field test smack down for the Fenix HP12, Nitecore HC30 and AT Wizard XHP50 as their beam profiles are different and they all bring something good to the table. I want to say the HC30 throws more however the power of the XHP50 is so mind boggling it could be a player despite the headlamp having a floodier beam. This takes nothing away from the HC30 which IMHO is shockingly bright given the size and low low mass. I just got in from a 5-mile night run through the hills so don't have the HC30 but could check them side by side ASAP for throw then report back.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 4, 2016)

WigglyTheGreat said:


> Nice review as always Woods Walker. I have been watching this light since it was first announced. I always go for neutral whites in headlamps and the warm version looks nice with an excellent beam profile for all around use. I would like to see armytek put out a version without the honeycomb lens and just a clear lens for increased throw. It would make for a nice cycling helmet light if it had more throw. Better yet, give it interchangeable lenses or a clear lens and include a diffuser that attaches. I also think they dropped the ball in not giving it a ~70 lumen mode as that is a mode I would use the most hiking at night. Hopefully Armytek improve their quality control too as there has been some concern over it lately.
> Thanks for the review!
> 


Not sure what would be involved in making a Wizard with throw but who knows. The 70 lumen mode is nice on the Tiara but then again it can't be held for the required length of time for a good hard to follow hiking trail outing. Sometimes I hike into the night till 1 am to camp. I like a light that can run on 6 hours for a good medium mode so don't need to change on the fly. Had a few mid rock scampering changes that I could have done without. So was happy to see the Tiara adding a 30ish lumen mode as the 10 was too little and 70 ran down too fast. The Wizard can hold the Main mode 2 which is around 160ish for the required time or least so far that's been the case on the trail but yea the 70 was a great mode so kinda agree.



wawrik said:


> Mine Wizard Pro flashes two times (flash » gap 5 sec » flash) when I turn on firefly mode, even if Multicolor (battery) State Indication is switched off.



Not sure I ever answered this clearly. Mine does that as well but it stops so doesn't distract from the firefly. Wish there was a way to turn it totally off. Not really a problem as it's on my head.


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## tex.proud (Dec 5, 2016)

I got one of these when they first came out and love it. In my job I find myself working in attics, drop ceilings, or under homes at times. This thing turns those areas into daylight! The tint is also great for determining the color of the wires I'm working with as a phone man. Great light. Great review.


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## CivilGear (Dec 5, 2016)

Great review and nice beam shots!


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## blindedbythenight (Dec 5, 2016)

Woods Walker said:


> LOL! Thanks! The Nitecore has more focused beam than the Armytek Wizard or Tiara. In fact it seems to work better in the mist and rain so take the HC30 when night trail running in those conditions. Still overall prefer the AT headlamp beam pattern for the majority of conditions. I should do a field test smack down for the Fenix HP12, Nitecore HC30 and AT Wizard XHP50 as there beam profiles are different and they all bring something good to the table. I want to say the HC30 throws more however the power of the XHP50 is so mind boggling it could be a player despite the headlamp having a floodier beam. This takes nothing away from the HC30 which IMHO is shockingly bright given the size and low low mass. I just got in from a 5-mile night run through the hills so don't have the HC30 but could check them side by side ASAP for throw then report back.


I thought you might say something like that....fine...I'll buy one....just no more tempting torches.......at least not this side of Christmas hehe. Cheers mate


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## iamlucky13 (Dec 5, 2016)

iamlucky13 said:


> Does your Tiara Pro do this, too? Mine flashes all the time it is on, even in firefly, which is terribly annoying since the flash is significantly brighter than the firefly output.



I have to apologize for raising some confusion here. I was mistaken about this. On further review, my particular Tiara pro (XM-L2 emitter, which I think makes it a v2) has the battery indicator flash all the time (once every 5 seconds) in the main modes only. In Firefly mode, it flashes 5 times, which was long enough that I had covered it any time it mattered, and as a result not noticed when it stopped. I can live with this.

I don't see anything in the manual about turning this off. Maybe I'll check the Wizard manual.



Woods Walker said:


> Per my digital postal scale. XHP50 Wizard Pro V3 with naked 3500 mAh 4.9 ounces, without battery 3.6. Tiara Pro V2 with 840 mAh protected keepPower 3.2 ounces, without battery 2.9 however keep in mind the Wizard has an over the head strap as well.



Interesting. Given the heavier weight of the Wizard headband and battery, I think your measurements do support Armytek's specs that for the light alone (no battery or headband), the larger model is lighter than the smaller model.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 5, 2016)

iamlucky13 said:


> Interesting. Given the heavier weight of the Wizard headband and battery, I think your measurements do support Armytek's specs that for the light alone (no battery or headband), the larger model is lighter than the smaller model.


It would not surprise me if the empty Tiara was heavier. The side walls on my Primes AA are thicker than the CR123 models. I think they use the same stock but bore out more for the 18350/18650. I think the Wizard head is more rounded as well.


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## dc38 (Dec 6, 2016)

Darn you all! I should have one on the way from Illumn shortly...


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## WigglyTheGreat (Dec 6, 2016)

Thanks, I forgot about the xhp50 quad die. I guess I was thinking along the lines of the way Zebralight does theirs. They use a different leds on their current models xhp35 on the mk iiis it seems.


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## Tachead (Dec 6, 2016)

WigglyTheGreat said:


> Thanks, I forgot about the xhp50 quad die. I guess I was thinking along the lines of the way Zebralight does theirs. They use a different leds on their current models xhp35 on the mk iiis it seems.



Yeah, although the XHP35 is also a quad die emitter, the dies are much closer together so they won't cause beam anomalies like the XHP50 and XHP70. Armytek uses the XHP35 on many other models as well but, they went with the 50 for the new Wizard.


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## Alfred143 (Dec 13, 2016)

Can I use regular 18650 non-hi discharge battery on the other non Turbo modes with similar run times?


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## Woods Walker (Dec 13, 2016)

Alfred143 said:


> Can I use regular 18650 non-hi discharge battery on the other non Turbo modes with similar run times?


 I think so but you risk accidentally going into turbo mode then activating the protection circuit. It would have to be reset but then the next mode the Wizard might come on in the same one it left. The Turbo which would again pop the circuit creating a never ending cycle until you get a battery which would allow you to change modes. Just speculation on my part as did sometime similar with the Tiara. I changed battery modes to lithium ion then couldn't get it to work cuz the 1.5 volt primary wouldn't allow me to change modes. I needed to connect two batteries 1.5 + 1.5 together and use wire to get 3 volts which is over the 2.6 volt cut off on the Tiara set for unprotected lithium ion. Ok not the same thing but the same idea. The pro models can be accidentally user disabled in the field if the wrong battery or setting is selected. A price for the larger pool of options.


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## scs (Dec 13, 2016)

Alfred143 said:


> Can I use regular 18650 non-hi discharge battery on the other non Turbo modes with similar run times?



Yes. And if the protection circuit trips, just press and hold the switch to activate firefly to reset it, and use a mode lower than the one that triggered it. Of course you have to be careful, because if the protection circuit is not working, it might be dangerous. Best to always use a capable cell to eliminate an additional problem source.


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## DuncanHynes (Dec 13, 2016)

Noticed on mine the normal mode 1, think it is 30 lumens, it browns out with each flash of the green indicator led...results in a flicker of main led. Not a massive deal as the lower modes dont do this and I found the 150 lumen mode 2 is perfect light and really good runtime with no heat. Great for work. I really like this now better than my Spark, but the Spark 460NW is brighter with no heat due to more mass, just much heavier. 

I got lucky that my head size allows the middle strap to fall between the two buckles of the main strap keeping it centered. Since I blacked out the button from the inside and put a tiny strip of electrical tape over the indicator mini led I love the left hand-under button use vs the NiteCore side button. Took the magnet out of mine, saves weight.


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## dc38 (Dec 14, 2016)

Still..test out the warranty. It isnt supposed to do that.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 14, 2016)

DuncanHynes said:


> Noticed on mine the normal mode 1, think it is 30 lumens, it browns out with each flash of the green indicator led...results in a flicker of main led. Not a massive deal as the lower modes dont do this and I found the 150 lumen mode 2 is perfect light and really good runtime with no heat. Great for work. I really like this now better than my Spark, but the Spark 460NW is brighter with no heat due to more mass, just much heavier.
> 
> I got lucky that my head size allows the middle strap to fall between the two buckles of the main strap keeping it centered. Since I blacked out the button from the inside and put a tiny strip of electrical tape over the indicator mini led I love the left hand-under button use vs the NiteCore side button. Took the magnet out of mine, saves weight.



I mentioned that in the cons however my perception is a slight flicker rather than a brown out timed with the green indicator light. It seems to appear in the 30 lumen mode. A slight flicker but I didn't see it during outside use. Actually I think it also appears in the Main mode 1 of the Tiara but never actually looked for it till the Wizard and had that light for some time. It's even slighter on the tiara cuz that mode is 10 lumens there. It's very very slight so didn't effect the field use however could be noticed more when the power ran down and white wall hunting. Not sure why that happens.


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## DuncanHynes (Dec 14, 2016)

It is a flicker...described as brown out because it does it when there is the extra 'drain' on the cell from the mini led. I see it when the headlamp is the only light indoors or outside. No biggie, dont use 30 lumens and has a great tint (neutral). Otherwise a fine headlamp. I have box with papers if it goes **** up. Perhaps next version will allow the toggle off of the always on indicator. Maybe just have a locator feature instead as someone mentioned.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 14, 2016)

DuncanHynes said:


> It is a flicker...described as brown out because it does it when there is the extra 'drain' on the cell from the mini led. I see it when the headlamp is the only light indoors or outside. No biggie, dont use 30 lumens and has a great tint (neutral). Otherwise a fine headlamp. I have box with papers if it goes **** up. Perhaps next version will allow the toggle off of the always on indicator. Maybe just have a locator feature instead as someone mentioned.



Shutting down the indicator would be a nice option. That said I actually turned it on during my last outing so it would flash all the time. Well first put it in "tactical mode" by mistake. LOL! Made it easy to find on the ground near my bag when sleeping under the stars. The tint is really fantastic!


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## YahFargo (Dec 19, 2016)

I recently got my Pro XHP50 Warm, love the tint. I've played with it for a few days and didn't notice a bug until last night. Was fiddling and changing levels around, left it in Low 3 for about 5 minutes and then shut it off. When I shut it off though the button LED turned a solid green and I could not turn the light back on. I unscrewed the tail cap a half turn, the button LED turned off, screwed back on and the green light appeared again, not allowing the light to turn on. I then completely unscrewed the tail cap and that got it functioning normally again without any constant on green light. I attempted to replicate the problem by letting it run in Low 3 awhile and then shutting off the light to no avail. Has anyone else had something like this happen?


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## Woods Walker (Dec 20, 2016)

YahFargo said:


> I recently got my Pro XHP50 Warm, love the tint. I've played with it for a few days and didn't notice a bug until last night. Was fiddling and changing levels around, left it in Low 3 for about 5 minutes and then shut it off. When I shut it off though the button LED turned a solid green and I could not turn the light back on. I unscrewed the tail cap a half turn, the button LED turned off, screwed back on and the green light appeared again, not allowing the light to turn on. I then completely unscrewed the tail cap and that got it functioning normally again without any constant on green light. I attempted to replicate the problem by letting it run in Low 3 awhile and then shutting off the light to no avail. Has anyone else had something like this happen?


 I was once able to the the Tiara to fail to turn off when the battery was low. So far haven't had that issue with the Wizard but also haven't run down the battery till the protection activates all that much. The twisting of the tail cap resolved it with the Tiara.


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## noboneshotdog (Dec 20, 2016)

Does anyone know if the new wizard with usb charging has as strong of a magnet at the tailcap as the wizard pro without usb charging?


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## Glenn7 (Jan 2, 2017)

noboneshotdog said:


> Does anyone know if the new wizard with usb charging has as strong of a magnet at the tailcap as the wizard pro without usb charging?


I wanted to know that too.


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## Umbrosoccer (Jan 3, 2017)

I've been thinking of getting this light. Just got a H600W mk iii today but i think its defective. If it is, I think I might pick up an AT wizard pro v3. Do you own both or just the Armytek?


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## Woods Walker (Jan 3, 2017)

Umbrosoccer said:


> I've been thinking of getting this light. Just got a H600W mk iii today but i think its defective. If it is, I think I might pick up an AT wizard pro v3. Do you own both or just the Armytek?



Only own the AT but do have some older ZL. What appears to be the issue.


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## Umbrosoccer (Jan 4, 2017)

My Zl H600w tends to step down at 52 seconds with the pid. I can see it gradually working to cool the XHP35 off. I ran it for about 20 minutes and saw my 18650 drop from 100% to 30%. I'm using a ZL634 18650 which is a panasonic cell B. If it is Defective I will return it and get the Wizard pro warm and see how that goes.


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## Woods Walker (Jan 4, 2017)

Unintentional drop test added to OP. Ok I accidentally dropped the headlamp however unintentional drop test sounds smarter.


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## iamlucky13 (Jan 6, 2017)

Woods Walker said:


> Here is the setup. I open the passenger side of my truck's door to grab my pack and some papers. However my pack is on top of the headlamp which then gets dragged off the seat tossing said headlamp which promptly bounces off the door hitting the driveway like a comet.



Hehe...I performed a drop test of a $600 camera in a similar manner once. The camera body, which is what actually contacted the ground when it hit, performed well, but the lens suffered some internal shock damage that affected image quality.

I've dropped a few of my lights of various brands onto hard surfaces. So far, I haven't done anything worse than scratch the anodizing.

Armytek claims impact "resistance" up to 10 meters (33 feet), so the one Armytek I own is probably the light I'm least worried about killing.


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## Woods Walker (Jan 6, 2017)

iamlucky13 said:


> Hehe...I performed a drop test of a $600 camera in a similar manner once. The camera body, which is what actually contacted the ground when it hit, performed well, but the lens suffered some internal shock damage that affected image quality.
> 
> I've dropped a few of my lights of various brands onto hard surfaces. So far, I haven't done anything worse than scratch the anodizing.
> 
> Armytek claims impact "resistance" up to 10 meters (33 feet), so the one Armytek I own is probably the light I'm least worried about killing.


 The door busted on my camera from just 2 feet drop on grass when inside a padded case. LOL! Lucky it wasn't my DSLR. Seems most AT light which die do so from unknown causes not drops or water intrusion or at least from what I read on the forums though not sure if that is reflective of something more. Just commenting on what I actually read. I remember ZL had the recurring issue of drop failures. People would drop them from a few feet and it would just brick. Haven't read too much of that anymore so maybe they fixed the problem. I don't know if the Wizard or Tiara are potted (well what AT calls potting anyways) or if that is just for the Predator and Viking. Anyone out there know?


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## iamlucky13 (Jan 7, 2017)

It sounds like all Armytek lights are potted:
https://www.armytek.com/technologies/body-and-durability.html



> To ensure functionality in difficult environments, the electronic driver of the flashlight is placed in a special aluminum capsule and is completely covered with a durable compound. This actually protects it from both the environmental impact and from mechanical damage.


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## Woods Walker (Feb 7, 2017)

Updated the OP with info on the new plastic harness.


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## doelzzz (Apr 2, 2017)

just got mine yesterday, btw its little different since mine have a heatsink in the head part, i wonder what version is mine...


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## Woods Walker (Apr 2, 2017)

That's the newest of the new V3 USB chargeable wizard I think. It should have the voltage range someplace on the head or body. 2.7 to 9 volts not pro 2.4 to 9 volts pro unless they changed something with the USB charging.


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## Lumencrazy (Apr 2, 2017)

Having used my XHP50 warm for about one month it would be my first choice if I could only have one light. It does everything!!!!!!! A universal, very compact, durable, no sharp edges and I can lock it out. Truly a first-class design!!! I never use it on high power mode: no need. The benefit of the XHP50 led is that it gives an more uniform beam compared to my XML-2 Wizard pro. The warm tint is perfect showing colors well and this damn light just runs forever on one battery. Nuff said. Truly the flashlight of the year!!!! The plastic clip has a nice curved shape, and, as a result, is a lot more comfortable than the older silicone design.


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## noboneshotdog (Apr 2, 2017)

Does anyone with the new USB version know if it charges a battery pretty efficiently?


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## FlashlightR (Apr 2, 2017)

I also have the new Wizard v3 XHP50 (warm) USB version with the new cooling fins around the head. I have the light for a couple of months now and for me it is also my first choice light! It works great, good mode spacing, colour temp and runtime.
I think Armytek uses a very simple and slow charging argorithm because it starts around 700 mA charging rate down to around 200 mA. It takes a lot of hours to fully charge the included 3200mah 18650. But it works fine and that's the most important for me. I think the reliability has really been improved with the new Armytek XHP50 lights.


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## doelzzz (Apr 4, 2017)

Anyone have the same problem like me?
The light is flickering at firefly mode, not at the other mode since its too bright to seen by naked eyes


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## Woods Walker (Apr 4, 2017)

No flicker on firefly. Better contact AT and show them the video.


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## FlashlightR (Apr 4, 2017)

Mine also has no flicker on firefly. Did you try to clean all the contacts in the tail(cap)?


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## doelzzz (Apr 4, 2017)

FlashlightR said:


> Mine also has no flicker on firefly. Did you try to clean all the contacts in the tail(cap)?



I already cleaned both head and tail side inside, nothing change
If its clearly a defect, i'll contact the seller then
Looks like nobody have the same issue like this


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## FlashlightR (Apr 8, 2017)

That's bad luck..... please let us know how Armytek take care of this.


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## _Rotor (Apr 8, 2017)

FlashlightR said:


> That's bad luck..... please let us know how Armytek take care of this.


No, it is not a bad luck. The statistic shows that the Armytek products faults are normal behavior. If somebody have one or three of the Armytek products and they works fine this is not prove their reliability (that is too small statistical sample). But if you search in CPF for the problems this will give you more realistic view of their products quality (the problems are too much compared with their competitors). Armytek problems with even simple things as the user manuals make me to realize that it is not worth to take a risk with their products. There are more reliable and responsible brands which to prefer.

Just two links about Armytec quality:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?428704-Is-Armytek-a-gamble
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?426543-Armytek-website-specifications


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## FlashlightR (Apr 8, 2017)

I know about the issues in the past. I had a lot of Armytek lights with driver issues and incomplete retail boxes. I really thought that the 'new' generation XHP light were much better. Time will tell......


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## Woods Walker (Apr 9, 2017)

My overal preference is for their standard (not pro) line as the UI is easier and I think there is less
to go wrong. Too bad they don't offer the XHP-50 in standard. That said I like this light.


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## Lumencrazy (Apr 13, 2017)

Woods Walker said:


> My overal preference is for their standard (not pro) line as the UI is easier and I think there is less
> to go wrong. Too bad they don't offer the XHP-50 in standard. That said I like this light.



I would suspect that internally they are identical. Just programmed differently. A lot cheaper than operating two different assembly lines. And a lot cheaper than buying smaller quantities of different components. A very common practice.


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## scs (Apr 13, 2017)

Lumencrazy said:


> I would suspect that internally they are identical. Just programmed differently. A lot cheaper than operating two different assembly lines. And a lot cheaper than buying smaller quantities of different components. A very common practice.



The pro models offer constant output at the lower turbo mode; the regular model doesn't. My guess: the pros have buck/boost drivers, which have more components and are more expensive, whereas the regulars have buck drivers that are less expensive.


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## Lumencrazy (Apr 13, 2017)

scs said:


> The pro models offer constant output at the lower turbo mode; the regular model doesn't. My guess: the pros have buck/boost drivers, which have more components and are more expensive, whereas the regulars have buck drivers that are less expensive.


To run with a 18650 cell the driver must have a DC boost driver to increase the voltage from the nominal 3.6 to approx. 5.7 (required forward voltage for the XHP50).


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## scs (Apr 13, 2017)

Lumencrazy said:


> To run with a 18650 cell the driver must have a DC boost driver to increase the voltage from the nominal 3.6 to approx. 5.7 (required forward voltage for the XHP50)



WW was referring to the the XML XPL versions, not XHP 50 version. I was as well.
The XHP 50 version doesn't come in the non pro flavor.


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## Lumencrazy (Apr 13, 2017)

OOps.


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## Woods Walker (Apr 13, 2017)

scs said:


> WW was referring to the the XML XPL versions, not XHP 50 version. I was as well.
> The XHP 50 version doesn't come in the non pro flavor.



That's correct.


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## SubLGT (Apr 15, 2017)

An Armytek flashlight is like a Mercedes Benz luxury car: both have desirable features and poorer than average reliability.


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## doelzzz (May 1, 2017)

doelzzz said:


> Anyone have the same problem like me?
> The light is flickering at firefly mode, not at the other mode since its too bright to seen by naked eyes




update
so the seller sent me the new one after that, no flickering again with the flashlight, just some minor issues like the optic doesnt perfectly cut on circle, and there is looks like a "dead pixel" on bottom of the optic if seeing from above, but the function is still allright.


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## Woods Walker (May 1, 2017)

Not sure what you are showing there. If you think the glass isn't properly positioned in the bezel dunk it inside a cup of water.

edit. IMHO best to find out if there is a problem at home than in the field but that's just me.


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## doelzzz (May 1, 2017)

Woods Walker said:


> Not sure what you are showing there. If you think the glass isn't properly positioned in the bezel dunk it inside a cup of water.
> 
> edit. IMHO best to find out if there is a problem at home than in the field but that's just me.


what i mean is the bead lens cutting edge is not perfectly circle





and some of the bead lens surface looks foggy if you looked it from upside






maybe im just too OCD lol, but like i said before, its just some minor issues about fit and finish, the function is still good


----------



## Woods Walker (May 1, 2017)

When I go home will check both of mine for that. A submersion test would show if the bezel is comparamized. Not sure but guessing the O-ring is under the window.


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## Woods Walker (May 2, 2017)

I checked out my XP-L version (the XHP is at the other house). I don't see anything funky with the glass. Maybe Email Armytek or give it a dunk. It's not OCD to be concerned about the window as water intrusion is not something you want. I bet AT would know if there is an issue. They have a sub forum on CPF.


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## Genzod (May 7, 2017)

Hi *Woods Walker*. Seen some of your youtube channel before coming to this forum.

My other half wants a lamp like this. Some kind of morbid fascination with _overwhelming_ power, (Whoo-oop--SNAP!) haha. 

I think thismight be the reaction she expects from such a lamp when encountering other hikers in camp and on the trails:






From the Doomsday Machine (1967): Star Trek Original Series. Commodore Decker kamikazes the weapon of mass planetary destruction with a shuttle craft by flying down its throat!


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## Woods Walker (May 9, 2017)

I remember that. Hard on the outside but soft and weak on the inside. I mostly run the upper firefly and bottom tier two modes. Hardly ever use the bright turbo.


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## Genzod (May 10, 2017)

Woods Walker said:


> I mostly run the upper firefly and bottom tier two modes. *Hardly ever use the bright turbo*.



*...Only YOU can 
prevent forest fires! *


----------



## KickingAsh (May 20, 2017)

Just got my Wizard Pro USB. Whats the best 18650 batteries to get? Saw some 10 amp batteries.

Seems like the USB will take awhile to charge via the USB.

So I might buy a portable charger for it


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## Genzod (May 20, 2017)

KickingAsh said:


> Just got my Wizard Pro USB. Whats the best 18650 batteries to get? Saw some 10 amp batteries.
> 
> Seems like the USB will take awhile to charge via the USB.
> 
> So I might buy a portable charger for it



Inspect the lens closely. Any cracks? I heard some people complaining theirs were cracked near the bezel when they got them. It's a great headlamp, and I recommend them. Just make sure you didn't get a damaged unit.

I don't know too much about batteries yet, but I heard sticking with name brands is safer. I also heard people saying good things about the pink Sanyo/Panasonic unprotected 18650s. Maybe you could read up on them with the search bar. You'll need a battery that can deliver a minimum 7amps to get turbo boost to function properly according to your manual.


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## KickingAsh (May 21, 2017)

Genzod said:


> Inspect the lens closely. Any cracks? I heard some people complaining theirs were cracked near the bezel when they got them. It's a great headlamp, and I recommend them. Just make sure you didn't get a damaged unit.
> 
> I don't know too much about batteries yet, but I heard sticking with name brands is safer. I also heard people saying good things about the pink Sanyo/Panasonic unprotected 18650s. Maybe you could read up on them with the search bar. You'll need a battery that can deliver a minimum 7amps to get turbo boost to function properly according to your manual.



No cracks. Pretty bright. Does get hot in the turbo mode.

It does take awhile for it to charge via USB but its worth having especially in the woods where I have a Solar charger and power banks.

Im debating on buying couple more 18650s and a good charger.

Any suggestions on the charger? Specifically one that can charge via USB


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## Woods Walker (May 21, 2017)

KickingAsh said:


> No cracks. Pretty bright. Does get hot in the turbo mode.
> 
> It does take awhile for it to charge via USB but its worth having especially in the woods where I have a Solar charger and power banks.
> 
> ...


Nitecore F1 is my preferred USB mobile lithium ion charger as it is totally solar compatible. Also works as a
power bank, voltage tester and will pass through charge.


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## KickingAsh (May 21, 2017)

Woods Walker said:


> Nitecore F1 is my preferred USB mobile lithium ion charger as it is totally solar compatible. Also works as a
> power bank, voltage tester and will pass through charge.



how long will it take to charge a 18650 with it?


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## Genzod (May 23, 2017)

KickingAsh said:


> how long will it take to charge a 18650 with it?




I was hoping someone would come along with a little actual experience with this Nitecore battery charger to answer the question, but I'll give it my best shot.

The Nitecore charges at one amp. Your base charger in the lamp charges at 0.75 amps (slower = safer and better for battery), so figure 33.33% faster.

If it takes you 5 hours to charge the 3200 mAH unit from complete empty with your AT base charger cable, anticipate 3.75 hours (multiply 5hrs or whatever the time is by 0.75). But you never want to let your li-ion battery deplete that far because it degrades it, shortens the life and makes it less safe. You don't want that thing blowing a fit on your head.

Calculating a near exact time is possible for most of the geniuses on this forum, but it depends on things I don't know, like the internal resistance of your particular battery, the capacity and how low you let the battery discharge. Also, I believe (guessing from what I read and remember) each unit modifies the charge rate or voltage at some point in the charge for safety/durability reasons and that affects time to charge as well. So I think it is easier to just make a comparison between the specified charge rates of each charger. Knowing one, you have a ballpark figure for the other.


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## Woods Walker (May 26, 2017)

KickingAsh said:


> how long will it take to charge a 18650 with it?



From solar or USB plug?


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## ionescu (Nov 12, 2017)

Hello! I'm just about to buy this flashlight to strap it to my dji phantom drone to fly at night but I just realised that the tail cap magnet will mess the drone's compass, probably wont even let me fly it, so I wanna ask if maybe I can power up the wizard using a wrap of aluminum kitchen foil taped to the light, instead of the tail cap.


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## Woods Walker (Nov 12, 2017)

ionescu said:


> Hello! I'm just about to buy this flashlight to strap it to my dji phantom drone to fly at night but I just realised that the tail cap magnet will mess the drone's compass, probably wont even let me fly it, so I wanna ask if maybe I can power up the wizard using a wrap of aluminum kitchen foil taped to the light, instead of the tail cap.



The magnet is easily user removable as the end of the tail cap unscrews for access to it.


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## Tachead (Nov 12, 2017)

ionescu said:


> Hello! I'm just about to buy this flashlight to strap it to my dji phantom drone to fly at night but I just realised that the tail cap magnet will mess the drone's compass, probably wont even let me fly it, so I wanna ask if maybe I can power up the wizard using a wrap of aluminum kitchen foil taped to the light, instead of the tail cap.





Woods Walker said:


> The magnet is easily user removable as the end of the tail cap unscrews for access to it.



Yes, it is easily removable on the non-usb rechargeable Pro version(now Elf) only though.

There is also a non-magnetic tailcap available as an accessory. I recommend it for your multicopter as it is quite a bit smaller, lighter, and is less then $5. Here it is...

https://www.armytek.com/products/ac...ap-for-armytek-edc-and-multi-flashlights.html

Another option is to go with a Zebralight instead. They are significantly lighter(almost half as light) and every gram counts on a multicopter. They are also more reliable and have a more advanced and efficient driver which gives you better thermal regulation, less heat, and longer runtimes.


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## jeff.rybak (Nov 20, 2017)

Very good review - I have my eye on this headlamp for sure. We currently use ZL headlamps, but this one is very appealing. Thanks again.


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## Stream (Dec 22, 2017)

I recently purchased two Wizard Pro V3 XHP50 lights, and one was a gift for my brother. The lights arrived a couple of days ago, and after less than 2 hours of use the on/off switch on his started to become unresponsive, and it became gradually worse and worse. Now it will only turn on or off once every 20-30 clicks. I have now contacted the retailer to see about replacing it under warranty.

I bought the Pro Wizard after reading Woods Walker's review, as well as all the raving reviews by other members in this thread, but after doing some further digging around CPF I'm starting to wonder if buying it was a mistake. I am hoping this is just a one-off, but I would hate to run into more boring issues further down the road.


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## Buck91 (May 24, 2019)

Woods Walker said:


> That's the newest of the new V3 USB chargeable wizard I think. It should have the voltage range someplace on the head or body. 2.7 to 9 volts not pro 2.4 to 9 volts pro unless they changed something with the USB charging.



Just received my pair of White and Warm Wizard Pro v3 from the manufacture. There is no indication or working voltage anywhere on the light or in the manual. Email to customer service is sent but I suspect they will take a while to reply.


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