# Bought a Hakko 936



## Groundhog66 (Dec 29, 2007)

Read the directions for the solder station, and it says I need a tip thermometer to properly calibrate it. I had no idea, but it says you should calibrate after each tip change. Do I have to order a tip calibrator now, or is there a less expensive alternative?

Tim


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## Alan B (Dec 29, 2007)

Commercial Production lines have requirements for accuracy. I've never calibrated mine. Do you have any applications that call for precise temperatures? Usually they're not that critical.

-- Alan


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## koala (Dec 29, 2007)

I have the 936, the unit is actually calibrated for the standard tip that is already mounted on the hand piece. I was told by the Hakko distributor in Melbourne. I bought it in 2003, not sure if they still calibrate it at the factory, it doesn't say that in the manual. You may find the standard tip too big for SMD so you might change it one day. 

If you are using non standard tip, you may need to calibrate the temperature. I find that if the tip is similiar/closely resemblance to the standard tip then there is minimal impact to the changes in temperature. If you bought a tip with a thin neck, thin profile then you will have to re-calibrate.

I think the standard tip for the 907 handpiece is 900M-T=B. I bought a 900M-T-I, the temperature is off by -40C. Use a proper reader to calibrate it, the temperature probes that comes with cheap multimeter can only do up to 230C or so.
_
 I used to do this... turn up the temperature until the solder starts to melt. If your solder is fluxed core then the flux should NOT splatter? If it does then the temperature is too high. Of course if you are soldering something like a beefy K2 legs then you may need to turn up the temperature. Like Alan said it's not critical but the temperature needs to be high enough to finish your job quickly so your parts don't get too much thermal damage but not too hot._ 

BTW, you made a damn good choice, the Hakko will last you for many years to come and 936 is probably one of the best seller so finding parts may not be that hard. Not those Aoyue, CT, cheap fake poo copies. They may work but there is a difference when you open up the case. Don't buy fake tips, they will corrode inside and bits of crap will fall off. Anyway the prices of the cheap copies are not any cheaper than the real deal.


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## Groundhog66 (Dec 29, 2007)

I got the 936-12, it cam with the tip 900M-T-1.6D. It says in the directions that there is a set screw on the dial that needs to be tightened.


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## koala (Dec 29, 2007)

If you tighten the set screw with the allen key provided, can you still change the temperature? I think it's the temperature lock that prevent the temperature knob from turning, I never have to use that.


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## Groundhog66 (Dec 29, 2007)

Makes sense, I will never use it either. So you think it's calibrated and ready to go?


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## koala (Dec 29, 2007)

It should melt the solder and the flux should not splatter. If your iron is new and shiny I doubt it is calibrated.


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## Groundhog66 (Dec 29, 2007)

Then I am back to having to get a calibration tool, where can I get a good inexpensive one?


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## koala (Dec 29, 2007)

Do you have a multimeter that can read temperature? A proper K-probe that can do >500C should do. That's the cheapest solution I can think of. If you buy a purpose soldering iron tip temperature reader you'll probably use it only once a while, not so worth the $ IMO.

try this they are quite nice people http://www.tequipment.net/index.html
They have the 936-12 for $78.80


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## Groundhog66 (Dec 29, 2007)

This is the multi-meter I have, I doubt it does.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NOQB9W/?tag=cpf0b6-20


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## LuxLuthor (Dec 30, 2007)

What are you doing that you need an exact calibration so the tip temp correlates with the dial? It seems like overkill to me.


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## koala (Dec 30, 2007)

Boil an egg? :devil:


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## donn_ (Dec 30, 2007)

> try this they are quite nice people http://www.tequipment.net/index.html
> They have the 936-12 for $78.80



I ordered the 936-12 and 3 tips from them on December 8. It has not even shipped yet. First they told me it was on order, but not in stock, and would ship for a week. 2 weeks later they told me it was drop-shipping from Hakko, but they were closed for inventory, and would not ship until after the holidays.

If I order from them again, I'll phone, and confirm availabilty.


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## Groundhog66 (Dec 30, 2007)

donn_ said:


> I ordered the 936-12 and 3 tips from them on December 8. It has not even shipped yet. First they told me it was on order, but not in stock, and would ship for a week. 2 weeks later they told me it was drop-shipping from Hakko, but they were closed for inventory, and would not ship until after the holidays.
> 
> If I order from them again, I'll phone, and confirm availabilty.



I ordered mine from a guy in St Paul, MN off of Ebay, shipped right away and was only $76 shipped. Which extra tips did you order?


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## Groundhog66 (Dec 30, 2007)

LuxLuthor said:


> What are you doing that you need an exact calibration so the tip temp correlates with the dial? It seems like overkill to me.



It's my first station, just trying to make sure I am doing everything correctly is all.


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## LuxLuthor (Dec 30, 2007)

Groundhog66 said:


> It's my first station, just trying to make sure I am doing everything correctly is all.



Ahhh, well I tend to use it more often on higher settings because it seems to get soldering done with less heating up of items. Two more important things that have helped me are abrading/roughing up/cleaning surfaces and using flux. I usually have my 936 set to 350-400° C for most tasks.


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## EXPY (Dec 31, 2007)

I've been issuing Weller digital readout soldering stations in the plant since 1980's. We never calibrate them altho I did pick up a Weller calibrator at an auction once and played w/ it.

Everyone seemed to have their own preferences as to temp altho I did take exception to them leaving their irons cranked up since the tips aren't cheap and the cost came out of my pocket.:mecry:

Once you get a little familiar with your station, I think you will find that setting the temp is possible by 'feel' and the performance of your soldering.

I usually set mine to 750 degrees F as a best compromise between tip life and soldering, altho if the target has some mass, I'll crank it up all the way for a minute or two.

The 750 degree setting is what I've found to be great for soldering chips to either FR10 or teflon microwave type PCB over a 25 yr period of time.


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## Groundhog66 (Dec 31, 2007)

I need something to practice on, not wanting to trash any of my lights. I was told Radio Shack has some kits for cheap that you can work with, any other suggestions?

Tim


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## EXPY (Dec 31, 2007)

Groundhog66 said:


> Then I am back to having to get a calibration tool, where can I get a good inexpensive one?


 
EBay has 2 up now for about $89.

Also, don't make the mistake of choosing too small a tip just because you think it needs to be small for SM components.

You will find that you need to transfer a fair amount of heat to ovecome the mass of the board and to solder or unsolder the chip. Unsoldering is the bigger issue. I use a medium-small for most things. I have 2 Weller stations in my lab, one an EC2001 with the ETA style tip [my fav for work that I do], and the other small one, an EC4000 with a very slender tip for soldering fine wires on RF torroids, etc.

Also, if you are unsoldering a chip like an LED, don't hesitate to get help and use two irons, one on each side, to get it off fast w/o damage.


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## EXPY (Dec 31, 2007)

Groundhog66 said:


> I need something to practice on, not wanting to trash any of my lights. I was told Radio Shack has some kits for cheap that you can work with, any other suggestions?
> 
> Tim


 
Easiest thing in the world is to take an old cell phone or any other modern electronic device and tear it apart and get to work.

Use regular 60-40 solder about .030 " with electronic grade flux core not the leadfree stuff, it's a PITA.

Also pick up some .060", I use both about evenly.

It doesn't hurt to have some very fine solder with a silver content for SMD's. Stops silver leaching. Fry's in your area usually has it.

Actually, Fry's most has anything you want quickly. So does eBay or Digikey via post.

You need some quality fine point tweezers, type 7B. Not the cheap stuff, expect to pay ~ $15 and take care of them.

ETA and some quality dental picks, particularly straight. I bought a bunch of Motorola service pick kits some years ago. Most of the stuff you see in the stores and on eBay is not very good quality. You'll have to look around -these items are essential.


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## Groundhog66 (Dec 31, 2007)

I plan to take a trip to Fry's tomorrow, I will see what is available. Thank you for all your input.


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## EXPY (Dec 31, 2007)

Groundhog66 said:


> I plan to take a trip to Fry's tomorrow, I will see what is available. Thank you for all your input.


 
GH, make sure the treezers are serrated. Type 7B are my preference.


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## koala (Dec 31, 2007)

Either Weller or Hakko will do, they both have parts easy to look for. Metcal is also a good choice they are now consumed by OK International a bit more expensive?. Please NOT velleman, they used to be good but now it's just rebrand junk.

Quality swiss made tweezers can go up $50-$60 ea.


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## Groundhog66 (Dec 31, 2007)

EXPY said:


> GH, make sure the treezers are serrated. Type 7B are my preference.



Can you show me an example of type 7B tweezers?


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## Groundhog66 (Dec 31, 2007)

Nevermind, I did a Google search and found MANY


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## LuxLuthor (Dec 31, 2007)

Tim, don't know if you saw this topic on helping hands to hold your stuff, but I'm loving the setup towards end of thread.


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## Groundhog66 (Dec 31, 2007)

LuxLuthor said:


> Tim, don't know if you saw this topic on helping hands to hold your stuff, but I'm loving the setup towards end of thread.



Oh WOW, that is really nice. Nice magnifying glass also, might have to see if I can get one.

Thank you


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## donn_ (Dec 31, 2007)

Groundhog66 said:


> Which extra tips did you order?



900M-T-1.2LD

900M-T-1.8H

900M-T-LB


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## Groundhog66 (Dec 31, 2007)

donn_ said:


> 900M-T-1.2LD
> 
> 900M-T-1.8H
> 
> 900M-T-LB




Those look to be very useful, nice choices:thumbsup:


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## EXPY (Dec 31, 2007)

Fry's has a nice magnifying lamp with a bench resting base for about $60.

Saw them when we in were SJ about a month ago. We bought a couple a few years ago and I like them, but not as well as the rectangular lens US made lamp on the long arm. But they cost $300, ouch.


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## donn_ (Dec 31, 2007)

For a useful magnifying lamp, check out the Daylight brand. I got one on sale at JoAnn Fabrics' website, and it's excellent. It has a 7" magnifier surrounded by a 22W daylight flourescent, and they sell additional lenses at different magnification. Mine is a clamp on, but IIRC, they sell a variety of base options for it.

http://us.daylightcompany.com/


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## LightBen (Jan 2, 2008)

I've owned a 936 with the medium iron for over four years now. It's a great, tough soldering station at a reasonable price. My one complaint: why is it that the complete kit with the base station and the iron and holder cost me around $90, while a replacement iron *alone* costs $80? I would prefer that a replacement iron cost more like $40.

-Ben


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## koala (Jan 2, 2008)

LightBen said:


> why is it that the complete kit with the base station and the iron and holder cost me around $90, while a replacement iron *alone* costs $80? I would prefer that a replacement iron cost more like $40.
> 
> -Ben



I agree. It's dumb pricing and it doesn't makes sense. Maybe they are trying to deter people from buying the $80 handpiece and fitting it to a fake base station?


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## LuxLuthor (Jan 2, 2008)

What wears out on the wand that needs replacing? I periodically scrape the flux off the shaft above the tip, but it seems this wand would last forever.


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## koala (Jan 2, 2008)

I treat my tools well, so they serve me well. Some people don't even have a wet sponge to clean their tip. The tip corrode so much it doesn't look like a tip anymore.

You are right that the handpiece will last for quite sometime. I think the ceramic heater may need replacing, but not the whole handpiece. I don't know how long is the lifespan. Anyone?


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