# EagleTac Clicky Ti



## shelm

After the *2011 *_Mini _*Ti* Eagletac has finally announced the *2012* _Clicky _*Ti*. Anyone has this beauty and how do you like it?




For the *2013 *_Clicky_ *Ti* beauty please see post#370. 
For the *2014 *_Clicky_ *Ti* (_same URL_) beauty please see post#607.
For the *2015* _Clicky _*Ti* beauty please see post#913.

And this might be relevant to you too:
*Poll: **EagleTac D25-series: Which model(s) did you buy?*


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## ClassicGOD

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

They are not out yet.  Yesterday there wasn't even a mention about them on EagleTac website  (but we all knew they were coming). I expect they will be available in a month or so. 
I own 4 D25 series Titanium lights and I love them. I expect to love the new clickies.


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## Kevinkw1

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Ooooo titanium goodness! Can't wait till they get released!


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## biglights

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Oh very nice, glad that I waited. Was about to get one of the old series, sweet. :twothumbs


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## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

i think so too that we all knew that they were coming. pretty clever business strategy by Eagtac,
1. releasing D25 Minis first. they were sensational because of the super short length, low weight and slim diameter. really "mini"!
2. selling the Minis in aluminum version, and we all thought that eagtac had cancelled the plans for the aluminum clickies
3. releasing D25 Minis in Titanium version. people who could barely hold off finally got their 1st Mini
4. eagtac releases the word that 1 year later the aluminum clicky would be available; they deny plans for the Titanium clicky
5. aluminum clickies are finally available, and still no plans for Titanium clickies, so impatient shoppers go for the aluminum clickies, because aluminium clickies are more desirable than the D25 Minis.
6. what the heck, Titanium clickies will be available too, announcement! surprise surprise.
7. eagtac sells the cream of the D25 series like hotcake .. although shoppers already own copies of the D25 series. --- a D25 Titanium clicky is no doubt the most desirable and hottest model of the entire D25 series!!

if Eagtac had first released the D25 Titanium clickies, and reversed the above order .. i am pretty sure that hardly anyone would have jumped on buying the D25 Mini Titanium (a Titanium twisty?? argh!) or the D25 Mini aluminum (a clicky is preferrable to a twisty .. especially on 1xAA form factor)

clever clever.

From the specs, i am thinking that the D25A is an underperformer. 122 lumen OTF, 1.3hrs, and with 14500 only direct drive. Clearly, these specs are easily beaten by a Quark X running on 1xEneloop AA or 1x14500 Trustfire 900mAh.

In the end it all boils down to the size and looks (and weight): the D25 Titanium clicky is super attractive. A Quark X performs better .. but the Titanium clicky is what stirs our emotions ("wantitwantitwantit").


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## cbr400rr

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I heard you can preorder for 72.99 from Illumination Gear.


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## Danielight

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



cbr400rr said:


> I heard you can preorder for 72.99 from Illumination Gear.



It's true: 

*EagleTac D25A CLICKY Ti* TITANIUM *LIMITED EDITION - XM-L U2 / XM-L T6*. Pre-order: $70.99

*EagleTac D25C CLICKY Ti* TITANIUM *LIMITED EDITION - XM-L U2 / XM-L T6*. Pre-order: $72.99

Expected early June.


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## ClassicGOD

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



shelm said:


> (a Titanium twisty?? argh!)


 Few drops of Krytox and all my D25 Tis are smooth (It really does wonders). Not as smooth as aluminum with Krytox but still perfectly acceptable


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## JemR

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I don't wish to pour cold water on this tread, love the D25 series but, it says clicky and I don't actually see the clicky? Can't see the LED either. Have they made any? Are they just getting us excited, making us save up?. Your right shelm they are clever!.


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## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

all right. pulling the trigger for the D25*A* Ti Clicky. illuminationgear. love their 7.50$ global shipping!!
anyone else who preordered it??


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## emu124

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Yep, preordered D25A + D25C Ti Clicky at Illuminationgear


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## ntensity

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

YuP! I pre-ordered a D25A at around 4 am yesterday morning. I think they had just uploaded them to the site because I couldn't find them anywhere else.


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## edvpt

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

PreOrdered a *EagleTac D25C CLICKY Ti* *XM-L T6. *Love my D25LC2 XM-L U2 clicky, been very impressed with the new EagleTac's. Love the UI of the D Clicky


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## cyclesport

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I pre-ordered the D25C Ti Clicky as well. Already own the D25C Clicky in aluminum and love the performance on 16340 Li-ions in direct drive and UI. Unfortunately, I had one of the problematic heads on mine with the "flicker" on low (only) with 16340's and it took a little effort and time to get a fully functional head from EagleTac. They took care of me though and hopefully have addressed the issue in the Ti versions. Tod @ IG is a great dealer though and handles warranty in the US so I feel a little more confident going in this time.


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## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

When you run the D25C (or D25A) on 3.7V LiIon cell, *how many* differing constant brightness levels do we get? On their "standard" cells the lights have 5 brightness levels: Moonlight - Low - Med - Hi - Turbo (+ 90secs of additional Turbo Boost).


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## EPVQ30

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

why is it reverse clicky? for most momentary on applications that i use my lights at night, a forward switch would be more desirable for most cpfers i would say.


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## Kevinkw1

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



EPVQ30 said:


> why is it reverse clicky? for most momentary on applications that i use my lights at night, a forward switch would be more desirable for most cpfers i would say.



Aww reverse clicky? Momentary functionality is so useful. Is the momentary ui more expensive I wonder or is there some other reason why some manufacturers don't use it?


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## cyclesport

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



shelm said:


> When you run the D25C (or D25A) on 3.7V LiIon cell, *how many* differing constant brightness levels do we get? On their "standard" cells the lights have 5 brightness levels: Moonlight - Low - Med - Hi - Turbo (+ 90secs of additional Turbo Boost).


 

It runs in direct drive giving (in programable mode) your choice of moonlight or low then the next two med & high mode default to turbo 750 +/- lumens) the remaining disco modes are accesable just as with primaries. By the way...there are only really 3 modes before accessing the flashy modes (1) Your choice of moonlight or low by twisting head 3 times (2) med. if using primaries or turbo w/16340's (3) high w/primaries or turbo w/16340's....true turbo with Li-ion only comes on w/head twisted fully counterclockwise allowing toggling between turbo and strobe..and yeah, the 90sec. to 3min. drop down occurs too.


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## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

thanks cyclesport! a little hard to understand lol. To repeat your post, i have understood that the total of differing *constant* brightness levels i could possibly produce (by playing with the twisting) with LiIon is *4*.

with 3.7V it's possible to produce a Moonlight level. (Is this the same lumens level Moonlight of 3.0V primaries?)
with 3.7V it's possible to produce a Lo level (Is this the same lumens level Low of 3.0V primaries?)
with 3.7V it's possible to produce a Hi level. (This is less bright than the below Turbo level.)
with 3.7V it's possible to produce a Turbo level. (This is the 500+ lumens direct drive with downstep after 90sec-3min. After the downstep the light is still brighter than the Hi mode.)

Btw, each of the 2 Titanium clicky model is limited to *500pcs*, worldwide.

What do you guys think? Worldwide 500pcs of the D25A .. isnt this a lot for a so-called "Limited" edition??


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## Nake

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



shelm said:


> Btw, each of the 2 Titanium clicky model is limited to *500pcs*, worldwide.
> 
> What do you guys think? Worldwide 500pcs of the D25A .. isnt this a lot for a so-called "Limited" edition??



Maybe not, there are 7 billion people in the world.


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## cyclesport

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Sorry shelm, let me attempt to be clearer...

With 16340 3.7v Li-ions you loose regulation and go into direct drive. With the head fully tightened you can toggle back and forth with the clicky between turbo and strobe only. Loosen the head 1/4 turn (where most will leave their light 99% of the time) and you start at your first level, either low or moonlight (by tightening and loosening the head three times) and then by using light half presses of the tailcap go to second level, high, and then another tap gives you high again. *Sorry, but in my last post I said it goes from low/moonlight to turbo, but I actually meant high. In other words you loose medium and get two high's instead. Basically the light operates pretty much like it does with CR123 primaries its just that you loose medium and get two high modes instead + loose regulation.

And yes, to my eye the moonlight level seems to be the same with 3.7v Li-ions or 3.0v CR123's at approx less than a lumen, and low is approx 15 -20 lumens, but this is just a guess.

Don't mean to add to the confusion but when you get your new light the UI will become much clearer right away...it's very intuitive. Just be aware that with the XM-L emitter and such a small thin-walled light it gets very warm, very fast and as ET suggests, only run the light on high or turbo with freshly charged Li-ions no more than a minute or so for the first few actuations and no more than 3 - 5 minutes on high period. With 3.7v Li-ions there are simply limitations one must accept if you wish to prolong its life and avoid damage to the battery or emitter.


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## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

thanks, now i have fully understood. I am understanding that on LiIon's with tightened head and AFTER the 90secs downstep the Turbo level is still brighter than the Hi level which you get with loosened head... that sounds good to me! Maybe it's wise then, with LiIon#s, to use the Hi level most of the time because it produces less heat than the tightened head?

[...]

the UI of this torch reminds me of the Quark Regular UI (or the Fenix LD20). None of these 3 torches have a tactical momentary on (for sending in morse code) or mode memory (well, the D25C has mode memory! but not the D25A). That's why 4sevens came up with the Quark Tactical.

This answers the question about the reverse clicky. If one has to change modes with a tail button, one cant use this button for tactical momentary on anymore; it's either or. And if one has to change modes with a tail button, the most logical way to do so is with a reverse clicky, because once the button is fully pressed, you can change the mode at ANY time and AS OFTEN as needed. With a forward clicky, you can take the decision only ONCE, namely before you fully engage. Once it is fully pressed and you want to change modes, you need to switch off the light first. 

Lights like the Eagtac T20 are exceptional because they do have tactical momentary on plus multiple modes in head tightened/loosened position. Complicated UI. Yet the UI of the G25 is even more complicated. :thinking: Zebralights dont have tactical momentary on either, so we're good.

BTW guys, dont forget that CPFMP dealers often offer a CPF discount. See lightjunction, illuminationgear and other Eagtac dealers, good luck!


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## EPVQ30

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

So it would be safe to say that the iteration of this model will be a forward clicky? 
I guess a reverse clicky makes sense in this type of edc.


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## ViciousV

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Pre-ordered a Ti one from IG last night. Have a D25c Alum. twisty and a D25c Ti twisty. Figured I'd just jump to the D25c Ti clicky... early fathers day gift for myself. I wonder how far into the 500pc run they are??
Oh and I ordered a D25a Alum clicky for my Dad. He's not a full blown flashaholic, but he EDC's the little Energizer AA I bought him last year.. I figure he's due for an upgrade. I love buying people things I like! Hahaha...


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## HighlanderNorth

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



ViciousV said:


> Pre-ordered a Ti one from IG last night. Have a D25c Alum. twisty and a D25c Ti twisty. Figured I'd just jump to the D25c Ti clicky... early fathers day gift for myself. I wonder how far into the 500pc run they are??
> Oh and I ordered a D25a Alum clicky for my Dad. He's not a full blown flashaholic, but he EDC's the little Energizer AA I bought him last year.. I figure he's due for an upgrade. I love buying people things I like! Hahaha...



I ordered the AA model of this light last night, as I didnt scroll all the way down the page to see the Cr123 version of it, so today, I ordered the CR123 version. Both are in Neutral tint.


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## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

IG doesnt seem to have them in stock yet but i've spotted some other dealers who do have them in stock already and can ship within 24hrs. in other words, the Eagtac Titanium Clicky's have entered the market *already*, they are available!!

Question, does IG send shipping confirmation emails?


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## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I am very eagerly waiting for a Ti D25C with neutral XML. I wish it were forward clicky, but whatever...it's looks too damn good to pass up.


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## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Just pre ordered mine through light junction. Stoked!


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## melty

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Is there any word on the new A950 II circuit? What improvements have been made? EagleTac's website doesn't make anything easy to find.


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## gsxer

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I ordered a D25A in a cool white from Light Junction a few days ago. This will be my first titanium light and I am a happy guy!. Now the wait begins.


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## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



melty said:


> EagleTac's website doesn't make anything easy to find.


+ 1

for the D25A the list of URL's is long!


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## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Can't wait to see the first user pics of one of these. Nobody has a shot of the Ti with the switch showing yet?


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## EPVQ30

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Just placed my order for the d25c ti clicky from lightjunction plus a ten pack of their stellar cr123 batteries.Has anyone had any experience with those batteries? Anyways, great bunch of guys there when they took my order. Looking forward to getting my new light woot!


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## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I have the twisty, im very much looking forward to this light (very excite!) I would like the brightest of the two Ti versions though...So, if i used the 14500 lithium cell at 4.2v freshly charged, wouldn't it be just as bright as the C model on a freshly charged cr123 at 4.2v? Im assuming both use the same drivers/circuits? I love the AA form factor but like the 123a output .


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## mohanjude

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



beach honda said:


> I am very eagerly waiting for a Ti D25C with neutral XML. I wish it were forward clicky, but whatever...it's looks too damn good to pass up.



Got mine here in the UK from Ledfiretorches ... They had all the variations XML / XPG cr or AA versions


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## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

looks like UK dealers and GER dealers have them in stock already. the US dealers are all behind. LOL


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## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Anyone have pics? I would like to see the tailcap. Who here has one in hand?


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## mohanjude

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I can post a picture of it in the morning.. at work right now.. I could have taken a picture on my iphone had I bought it with me.. are looking for any aspect? It is slightly longer than the twisty and has a white slightly translucent button. It looks neats IMHO


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## gunga

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

How do you like it Mohan? Looks like a nice light. Cheapish Ti is bad in a twisty, but is fine in clickies!


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## cyclesport

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



mohanjude said:


> I can post a picture of it in the morning.. at work right now.. I could have taken a picture on my iphone had I bought it with me.. are looking for any aspect? It is slightly longer than the twisty and has a white slightly translucent button. It looks neats IMHO



A pic would be appreciated mohanjude, if possible. Is the translucent tailcap GITD? Also, is the UI the same as the aluminum D25C (since it has a newer driver) _if indeed you currently own a std. D25C?_ Lastly...any extras...tailcaps, o-rings, screws, etc?


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## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Very excited to see the pics! I'd like a side shot and a shot of the tail cap switch. Thanks!


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## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

+1 on some pictures and your impressions of quality and workmanship.


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## EPVQ30

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

compared to the jetbeam tcr1 at 180.00 is there a big difference in materials and machining?


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## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

German?


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## EPVQ30

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



beach honda said:


> German?



yes, i figured it out therefore i edited my post.

thank you.


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## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

EPVQ30, the JetBeam is a real jewel of a light. Good thick high quality Ti and the machining is perfect. The Eagletac is a somewhat el cheapo Ti light (as Ti lights go), I can attest to that having the twisty version. It is nice, just kinda thin walls... and it is a $60 light. The Jetbeam is no doubt a $180 light.


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## ClassicGOD

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



EspionageStudio.Com said:


> EPVQ30, the JetBeam is a real jewel of a light. Good thick high quality Ti and the machining is perfect. The Eagletac is a somewhat el cheapo Ti light (as Ti lights go), I can attest to that having the twisty version. It is nice, just kinda thin walls... and it is a $60 light. The Jetbeam is no doubt a $180 light.


Yes, the Titanium Eagletacs have thin walls but it's by design - they are one of the smallest CR123 and 1AA lights out there, much smaller and lighter than TCR1. But when it comes to machining on my samples (I own 4 Ti twistis ) is just as good (no tool marks at all, high polish) as my TCR1 but seems to scratch a little bit easier (but that's due oxidation of the titanium - TCR1 is a new light, my Ti Eagletacs had much more time to build up natural TI oxidation layer). It's really surprising how good the machining is on $60 Ti Eagletacs.


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## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Classicgod, +1 (love the size of D25A)!


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## ViciousV

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

The D25A (aluminium) Clicky I got for my Dad came in and it's great! I love that moonlight mode. I wasnt sure if it would win me over like my Quark, but it's perfect. I cant wait for my D25C Ti Clicky to arrive! Errrr!! I hope IG sends a shipping notification.


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## bmstrong

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Grade 2 or 6/4 for the Titanium?


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## mohanjude

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

as promised here are the pictures (espionagestduio.com

Mike (Gunga) I havent really had a chance to play with it. However initial impressions is that the quality is the same. switch is nice and firm - reverse clicky. torch is obviously longer due to the switch.












compared to twisty (anodised)






Specific Q (cyclesport):

The Button is not GITD ( I wish)
I dont have D25A with new driver to compare so really cant give a answer - sorry
no extra gooodies apart from firm holster

This torch does not compare or in the league of TCR1. There is nothing wrong with this torch. You are getting what you are paying for. This is nice torch but it feels light, the walls are thin and overal it's price point is actually reasonable for what you are getting (A Ti light). However the TCr1 in comparison feels beefier, looks expensive and looks to me like something that has had a lot more work put into the manufacture.


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## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Thanks for the pics! I'm soooooo going to get one of those as soon as they show up here in the States. Very nice looking light, can't wait to get one now


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## ClassicGOD

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



mohanjude said:


> This torch does not compare or in the league of TCR1. There is nothing wrong with this torch. You are getting what you are paying for. This is nice torch but it feels light, the walls are thin and overal it's price point is actually reasonable for what you are getting (A Ti light). However the TCr1 in comparison feels beefier, looks expensive and looks to me like something that has had a lot more work put into the manufacture.


We are not talking about the esthetics of the lights but about a quality of machining alone. While TCR1 is designed as a pice of jewelry the design of D25 series is strictly functional (which I like). Yes, you get more Titanium in TCR1, yes, TCR1 is more sturdy because of thicker walls etc, yes, the TCR1 is technologically more advanced, yes, TCR1 is designed for looks and yes, all f this things make it a higher class light overall and worth more money but the quality of machining alone is similar.

I love my TCR1, but I also love my Eagletacs and prefer functional design of D25 but TCR1 has more things to it than looks 

BTW. Eagletac website states that button cap is GITD. (?)



bmstrong said:


> Grade 2 or 6/4 for the Titanium?


Both TCR1 and D25 series are from Grade 5 Titanium alloy (so 6-4).


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## gunga

Where does it say they are 6/4? That's surprising.


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## ClassicGOD

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



gunga said:


> Where does it say they are 6/4? That's surprising.


I remember reading somewhere that D25 Ti Twisties are Grade 5 so I assumed Clickies are the same. TCR1 is TC4 alloy so also Grade 5.


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## Draven451

Just received a shipping notification from light junction for my D25A titanium clicky 


Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk


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## gunga

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I'm pretty stoked if both these lights are Grade 5 Ti. TC4 is similar to 6/4 eh? Neat. I am happy since I own a couple TCR1s. They seemed tougher than the typical (cheap) ti, but I haven't done a ton of testing...


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## ClassicGOD

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



gunga said:


> I'm pretty stoked if both these lights are Grade 5 Ti. TC4 is similar to 6/4 eh? Neat. I am happy since I own a couple TCR1s. They seemed tougher than the typical (cheap) ti, but I haven't done a ton of testing...


TC4 is just a marking of a manufacturer for their 6-4 alloy. Right now Grade 5 aka Ti6Al4V or 6-4 it the most popular alloy in use and one of the more affordable ones (simply because of its popularity) and for flashlights there really is no point in using other alloys. Most of the difference in quality of Ti lights is from the machining.

Either way you have to remember that grade of Titanium alloy does not mean quality or strength. For example Grade 5 is not necessary better quality than Grade 23 (medical, jewelry use) or Grade 1 (pure titanium) it just has different chemical composition, just like there are different steels  Also Titanium can be heat treated which also will influence it's hardness.


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## gunga

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Ah, I thought that 6/4 was a tougher material, than say CP (commercially pure) which I believe was used in cheaper ti lights in the past...

I guess I just don't understand all the nuances!


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## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



Draven451 said:


> Just received a shipping notification from light junction for my D25A titanium clicky
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk


Let's see who is first to receive a shipping notification from illuminationgear!!


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## cbr400rr

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Got my notification from light junction. Hope I get by Friday!


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## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I got my notice from light junction. Should be here Friday.

Woot


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## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I'm trying to figure out if the D25C Ti (on rcr123 li-ion) has a different driver and is brighter than the D25A Ti (on li-ion 14500)? Or would they both have the same output?


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## gsxer

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I also got a notification from Light Junction.


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## EPVQ30

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Got my note too. We must have 5 of the 14 available.


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## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Clicky Titanium video on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/user/jojoselected/videos


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## fnj

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



gunga said:


> Ah, I thought that 6/4 was a tougher material, than say CP (commercially pure) which I believe was used in cheaper ti lights in the past...
> 
> I guess I just don't understand all the nuances!



No, you understood just fine. Ti-6Al-4V is vastly stronger than CP titanium. Per Carpenter, specified minimums are:

CP Grade 2: yield strength 40 ksi; barely more than ordinary 6061-T6 aluminum
CP Grade 4: 70 ksi; no more than high strength aerospace aluminum
Ti-6Al-4V, annealed: 120 ksi
Ti-6Al-4V, STA (solution treated and aged), 127-144 ksi
Ti-3Al-8V-6Cr-4Mo-4Zr, STA: 180 ksi
Ti-3Al-8V-6Cr-4Mo-4Zr, STA with cold drawing stage: 180-210 ksi

Titanium is just all over the place. There is a vast difference bewteen alloys and grades; even between different grades of CP. CP Grade 1 is ridiculously weak. It is only 25 ksi.


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## ClassicGOD

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



fnj said:


> No, you understood just fine. Ti-6Al-4V is vastly stronger than CP titanium. Per Carpenter, specified minimums are:
> 
> CP Grade 2: yield strength 40 ksi; barely more than ordinary 6061-T6 aluminum
> CP Grade 4: 70 ksi; no more than high strength aerospace aluminum
> Ti-6Al-4V, annealed: 120 ksi
> Ti-6Al-4V, STA (solution treated and aged), 127-144 ksi
> Ti-3Al-8V-6Cr-4Mo-4Zr, STA: 180 ksi
> Ti-3Al-8V-6Cr-4Mo-4Zr, STA with cold drawing stage: 180-210 ksi
> 
> Titanium is just all over the place. There is a vast difference bewteen alloys and grades; even between different grades of CP. CP Grade 1 is ridiculously weak. It is only 25 ksi.


Correct, I probably could've used better worlds to describe what I had in mind, I didn't want to confuse gunga by implying that CP Grade 1 is stronger than 6-4 Ti. Also readers should keep in mind that numbers that you are presenting are a 'min' numbers for those alloys so strong 23 grade can be stronger than weak grade 5 despite having lower minimums. My point was that the Grade of Ti does not correspond to strength (higher grade = stronger Ti), if you don't know what given grade is exactly you can't tell anything about it's strength  Also Ti 6-4 is one of the cheaper if not the cheapest alloy correctly produced (cheaper than weak Grade 1 Ti) and there is no reason why respected manufacturer like EagleTac would use anything different.


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## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

LightJunction's stock numbers are declining as expected. the NeutralWhite T6 (D25A Ti Clicky) is already sold out. Earlier today the webpage showed "In Stock: 3". D*mn.

GearIllumination where are thou?


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## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

My shipping notice shows a saturday delivery expectation. Sweeeeeeet!

I want to hear everyones opinions when they arrive!


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## af112566

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

i just got the cool white ti d25c from lj,,cant wait.i really like the d25a i have so this one will be even better i hope!!


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## kaabob

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Let us know what you think of the output! The D25A seems a bit dim in the stats.


----------



## af112566

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

ya,,the d25a is not the brightest light but not bad either for aa.its great for indoors and bathroom runs in the middle of the night!!


----------



## ViciousV

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



af112566 said:


> ya,,the d25a is not the brightest light but not bad either for aa.its great for indoors and bathroom runs in the middle of the night!!



Agreed. The neutral white XM-L really does give off a nice "warm" color. Perfect for distinguishing between a black or blue sock in the dark.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Got my confirmation from LJ last night, so hopefully it will be here by Sat or Mon, but its being sent regular 1st class I think, so who knows. I ordered the D25a and the D25C.


----------



## ViciousV

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I spoke with a nice gentleman at IG today to verify my shipping address and he said he was getting his shipment of D25 Ti's on Friday. Shipping notices would follow as soon as Friday or Monday.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



shelm said:


> LightJunction's stock numbers are declining as expected. the NeutralWhite T6 (D25*A* Ti Clicky) is already sold out.



The NeutralWhite T6 (D25*C* Ti Clicky) is sold out now too at LJ!!
IG's webpage shows IN STOCK, finally 

EDIT: LJ has restocked some NW's!


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Tod over at illuminationgear has a shipment coming in shorty, he is shipping out pre orders today. A great guy to deal with, good customer service. I am very excited to get the Ti clicky, been a "perfect edc light" in my imagination for quite some time.


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Just got shipping notice from IG. D25C Ti Clicky on its way 1st class (free shipping is always best!)


----------



## ViciousV

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



EspionageStudio.Com said:


> Just got shipping notice from IG. D25C Ti Clicky on its way 1st class (free shipping is always best!)



Got my notification as well!


----------



## Kevinkw1

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



ViciousV said:


> Got my notification as well!



Yup! iG notification received! On its way to oz!


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

got my ig notification too!!


----------



## biglights

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

My shipped on the 14th!!! Cant wait :ironic:


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Btw, in which form does the serial number make an appearance? Is it only on the packaging, and how does it look like?


----------



## Adobo

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I got my AA cool white today. Quality is ok, not great but ok. As with all shinny metals it scratches easily, I already made a prominent scratch line across the eagletac logo :mecry:..
The pouch that came with it is sturdy enough, tho the one i had didnt want to close properly. 

I was supposed to buy the D25A neutral white, but it was waaaay to low powered for my taste. 

Im considering on getting the D25C neutral white next.


----------



## EPVQ30

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



shelm said:


> Btw, in which form does the serial number make an appearance? Is it only on the packaging, and how does it look like?



i was told at lj that it is on the packaging. no numbering on the light itself.


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

It would be fun to see how many here at CPF have bought these (probably half of the worlds supply)


----------



## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*
















Neutral XML is the way to go in my eyes! The trade off in lumens is well worth it. Will need to do some field testing after the sun goes down to be sure :devil:


----------



## biglights

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Its HERE!!!!!!!


----------



## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

The light is very functional and lightweight.
Very bright on an RCR123! 
Fat hotspot with plenty of neutral floody light.
Perfectly centered emitter.
Quality smooth reflector.
No dust or smudge on lens or reflector.
Modes are well spaced.
Switch boot is indeed glow in the dark.
Quality lanyard and attachment.
Quality holster.
Comes with spare o ring.
Ample knurling provides good grip.
There does not appear to be any serial markings on the light but the box has a sticker at the bottom that reads "product serial: xxxxxxxxxx".
Well designed pocket clip. 
Threads a bit on the gritty side as to be expected of Ti on Ti, but Nyogel made it better. Should improve with use.

Questions? Comments?


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

non-technical questions beach honda 

what'll be your intended use of it?
- actual serious use
- EDC
- shelf queen
- sell off
- show off
- conducting tests and measurements
- or merely fiddling and playing with it lol

and your preferred (intended) carry option?
- loose in the pocket
- clipped to chest pocket of a shirt or jacket
- on bunch of keys, keychain
- belt carry with provided holster
- with lanyard packaged in a bag

Overall impressive product or meh?


----------



## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Intended use: EDC which will see some harsh conditions such as oil, grease, sand, mud, and some salt water. No shelf queens or toys in my arsenal .

Preferred carry option: Mostly clipped inside pocket with a small stubby lanyard attached. May see some holster use depending on conditions.

Overall impression of light: I tend to shy away from Chinese lights but for the price, this is one that has value and quality written all over it. YMMV :shrug:


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



beach honda said:


> Intended use: EDC which will see some harsh conditions such as oil, grease, sand, mud, and some salt water. No shelf queens or toys in my arsenal .


For the intended use you could have well bought the aluminum D25C Clicky (or Mini) instead *g*
Would wonder how such a tiny shiny polished baby holds up during serious real life EDC..

My intended use will be for showing off purposes and wowing people (with LiIon) at nocturnal barbecue parties


----------



## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I like aluminum, don't get me wrong. But the benefits of titanium under harsh use conditions is ideal. I don't care so much about the shiny factor, it will look stonewashed soon enough. You should have seen my old Ti pd-s and Ti clicky.


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Beach Honda, If you have time I would love to see a photo of that beauty standing next to a D25A Ti twisty if you have one ;-)


----------



## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

E.S.- this is my first Eagtac light


----------



## mr.snakeman

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I´ve just ordered one of each (A and C) from Illumination Gear, and now.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



biglights said:


> Its HERE!!!!!!!





^ Yeah, well thats because you have a reliable mailman who delivers your stuff on time! My mail-guy will come at 10am one day, then not come til 5:30pm the next day! Its 1pm now, and he still aint here...... I probably wont see my 2 D25's(A and C) til tonight....... If he manages to get it here today at all.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



mr.snakeman said:


> I´ve just ordered one of each (A and C) from Illumination Gear, and now.



which tint/LED did you choose?

It's so awesome that we can choose tint!!


----------



## mr.snakeman

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



shelm said:


> which tint/LED did you choose?
> 
> It's so awesome that we can choose tint!!


U2, the T6 is just too yellow for me.


----------



## gsxer

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

It's here but getting ready to go to work will open it later.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Its almost 2pm, and the mail guy _STILL_ isnt here!


----------



## biglights

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Man that sucks, my mail arrives in the same time frame everyday. Give or take 15 or 20 minutes.


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Highlander, that is torture of the highest degree...I feel your pain man!


----------



## biglights

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

The treads are pretty stiff, what is the best lube for this kind of light?


----------



## cbr400rr

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Got mine in today!! Nice little light. Now I just have to wait to play with it tonight!!!


----------



## HighlanderNorth

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



EspionageStudio.Com said:


> Highlander, that is torture of the highest degree...I feel your pain man!



The mail guy finally came at about 3:00pm, so I got my lights.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



biglights said:


> The treads are pretty stiff, what is the best lube for this kind of light?




I agree about the threads not being so great. Mine wanted to strip on the tailcap end, and the washers fell out, and the switch isnt attached, and it was very tight, causing the threads to want to strip again. Then I noticed you can put the batteries in through the head instead of the tail cap, and it has longer threads, and doesnt have washers or switches falling out, so I think its better to install the batteries through the head. 

As far as lube, you have to use the right kind. I used a little bit of soy based, thick lithium grease. But not much, and I didnt get it on the battery or anywhere other than the threads. Thats important. I wiped off any excess lube. But to be honest, I am not sure that lithium grease is or isnt the best lube for this type of situation, but it has worked for me, and I use lithium grease for all kinds of stuff, with no problems.


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I would love to see a photo of the A and C models side by side if any of you lucky dogs (wont get mine until monday) have the time.


----------



## af112566

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

got mine today,,LJ is aweome at shipping!!what can i say,,a very nice ti light at a great price.got the cool white and its nice and bright not too green and the finish is surprisingly good.this is my first ti light and im very happy with it.


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Anybody try an AW IMR 16340 with the D25C XMLU2 Titanium Clicky yet?

The aluminum D25C using an AW IMR 16340 has a 10 lumen Low mode and a 750 lumen Med, Hi, and Turbo mode.

Does the Titanium model driver give a 200 lumen Medium and/or a 400 lumen Hi mode with Li-Ions?


----------



## HighlanderNorth

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



GordoJones88 said:


> Anybody try an AW IMR 16340 with the D25C XMLU2 Titanium Clicky yet?
> 
> The aluminum D25C using an AW IMR 16340 has a 10 lumen Low mode and a 750 lumen Med, Hi, and Turbo mode.
> 
> Does the Titanium model driver give a 200 lumen Medium and/or a 400 lumen Hi mode with Li-Ions?





I have 2 Soshine 16340's that have never been used, and are fully charged. But I wanted to make sure that using a 16340 is OK before I do it. Is it for sure?

Using the Cr123 these lights have many brightness settings. I have found 4 so far, but there is a moonlight mode somewhere too.


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



HighlanderNorth said:


> I have 2 Soshine 16340's that have never been used, and are fully charged. But I wanted to make sure that using a 16340 is OK before I do it. Is it for sure?




Yes, let us know if you get distinct brightness levels different
than the last column on this chart using a 16340 (RCR123).

The aluminum D25C uses the A950RC circuit,
and the titanium D25C uses the A950RC II circuit.


Edit: Highlander reports his D25C Titanium using a 16340 is like column 2. Anybody else?


----------



## EPVQ30

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

my views on the light are in par with the other members' opinions. hopefully i will flip this light for what i paid including s+h.
my 15 dollar 1 mode rominsen rcc3 r2 serves my the micro cr123 compact purpose. in reality, i have to edc something bigger.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



GordoJones88 said:


> using a 16340 is like column 2


in other words, with Liion we can produce
0.2lm
11lm
770lm

That's a total of 3 different brightness levels as opposed to "5" (moon, low, med, high, turbo). Note: Since in reality the MED's are slightly different, we get 6 different brightness levels with CR123A as opposed to "5" or "7" (Hi2 = Hi1).

Well, 3 is better than 2. And 3 is for sure better than 1 (=direct drive on all modes). And none of the blinking modes is lost with LiIon's. Altogether not perfect for EDC (with LiIon) but not too shabby in my books either.


----------



## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

So does the general consensus of owners reflect a positive note? I think my light is fantastic. how did anyone unscrew the tail end of the light? I would never have tried to replace the battery any other way but unscrewing the head.

Any other impressions?


----------



## biglights

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Yeah I think it is a very nice light, I have the D25A. Other than the stiff threads, which I ordered some grease for, I haven't seen any problems. (thanks beach honda!!) For a single AA this is a very impressive light!!! I wasn't expecting the walls to be thick like my titanium jetbeam, they are not the same light. At a third the price one should not expect it to be.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

anyone wants to share a photo of the threads or the wall thickness (close-up, zoom)?


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

This is a bad example from my phone of the d25A http://db.tt/AglUT8Iz


----------



## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I am interested in performance and durability reports.
Pictures are nice too!


----------



## Kilovolt

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Thanks for those pics! That is what I have been looking for. To my eyes, I felt the old twisty cr123 looked kinda short and fat...but the new one, the dimensions look perfect! I believe it is the same length as the twisty AA model now which I felt was also close to perfect. Now I think the new clicky AA might be too long (I have a ratio of width to length that looks right in my head) Someone will surely post a family photo of all 4 of the Ti models then we can see all the differences. That new one Kilovolt is looking good thanks again for the pictures.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

goinggear has now 10+ units of the D25A Clicky Ti in stock, and no other Clicky Ti models afaik. Goinggear video of the D25A/D25C Mini Ti exist and are helpful to demonstrate how bright the Ti lights are with standard batteries (Eneloop AA, CR123A). i dont believe that goinggear will shoot another D25 Ti video.

ES, you're right about the magical or critical ratio or proportions. To my eye, most 1xCR123A lights look too fat, or too big/heavy for the battery size (HDS, McGizmo, SWM, TCR1). Personally i do not use CR123A or 16340 cells.


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I tend to agree with you on that, although I am saving for a McGizmo I do find them big for the battery type that they take. I can be ok with that knowing it is a massive chunk of bad *** titanium though ;-) I think the new Eagletac D25C with be tolerable, it has that golden ratio that I like and is probably one of the thinest walled lights for that battery type out there, it looks fairly slim considering. We should see today, mine will hopefully be in the mail today! I will post some pics if I get the time today, cheers.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



EspionageStudio.Com said:


> I will post some pics


your a pro in the field.
we expect bada$$ photos, close-ups, multiple angles, .. from your part!!
Good luck with your specimen, i hope it is a flawless copy you got!
Thanks for your pro efforts


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Will do, I'll try to get some up tonight. Hopefully you get yours too ;-)


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Here are some pics of my new D25C Ti and my older D25A Ti (twisty). Just busted these out at my day job on lunch so they are not true E.S. quality but not too bad ;-)


Ok, here they are: (not sure what is up with the odd gap between the tail cap and body, but will investigate further...)


----------



## saypat

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

the pictures above put me over the edge, ordered it....


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Just added some pics to my above post, happy to report that the tail cap does in fact glow in the dark! More coming soon, just got home and set up my macro lens (the above shots were taken with a Nikon AW100 which does pretty damn impressive macro work)


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Here are more photos per shelm's request:


----------



## gunga

How's the level separation on these new lights?


----------



## Kilovolt

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Fantastic pics ESC, you are a real master!


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

:twothumbs Thanks Kilovolt! So far I am really liking this light and already plotting on getting a AA version. The Neutral tint is great on my copy, real nice warm tint I like quite a lot, now my cool tint D25A twisty looks too cold where before I thought it was just fine. If I had more time I'd post beam shots too but I'm guessing someone will beat me to it.


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Gunga, the spacing is ok, just "ok". On a primary battery, with moonlight mode enabled (I have a hard time believing that this is .5 lumens, seems like 1 or 2 to me), it is moonlight mode 1st, then what must be medium (its bright) then high which is brighter than medium. With Moonlight mode turned off, it is low (too bright) med (too bright) and High (too brigh..., oh wait, no high is fine!) I usually don't mind strobes, I have used them before to get someones attention and if they are well hidden I think they are tolerable. I do not like the strobes on this light with the UI, seems way too touchy and easy to hit the strobes, and then when you do there are way too damned many of them to cycle through to get back to the mode you want. I'm unclear if there is a way to program the strobes to not come on, but if there's not then there should be. As another person told me, before I ordered this light (they were right on), the AA version is noticeably floodier than this cr123 one. For that reason I'm still going to get a AA one just to try out.


----------



## saypat

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Many thanks for the wonderful pictures! Now I have to wait for my light to ship from LJ to Calif. Eagletacs are shipping with batteries, right? This is the LAST light I'm buying! Well no, the Zebralight H502 will be!


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I heard they were shipping with batteries previousely, if I remember right I think my AA twisty Ti had a Duracell in it (can't quite recall for certain) but this one had no cell installed in the light or in the box :-(


----------



## Kilovolt

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

My D25C Ti came with an EagleTac CR123A cell inside the box.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Thanks ESC for your efforts, beautiful results!! Professional quality photos :kiss:



saypat said:


> the pictures above put me over the edge, ordered it....


saypat, ESC, i dont see any pictures in post #127. My browser displays the post as: 




(_truncated screenshot GIF_)

@ESC
Have you ever tried to unscrew the tail cap (=disassemble the switch parts) and examine the quality and length of the tail cap threads? (macro photos of them too?  )

Personally i will apply some silicone grease on the threads of the tail cap because silicone grease is perfect for *sealing* threads in a harmless way. Silicone grease is sticky and increases the friction/torque in the threads and reduces play. The tail cap will be even more water-proof and not come off as easily as, for example, wobbly dry threads. Some people call silicone grease a '*lube*' .. but imho it is not a lube in the flashaholic's sense of _reducing friction_ of twisty-UI flashlight threads. In fact, i would call it rather '*lute*' than 'lube'.


----------



## kaabob

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



shelm said:


> Thanks ESC for your efforts, beautiful results!! Professional quality photos :kiss:
> 
> 
> saypat, ESC, i dont see any pictures in post #127. My browser displays the post as:
> 
> (_truncated screenshot GIF_)


Same here. Re-up the pics post #127, please?
The pics from post #130 came out fine =)


----------



## cbr400rr

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



Kilovolt said:


> My D25C Ti came with an EagleTac CR123A cell inside the box.


Mine did not come with a battery. Hmm..


----------



## ClassicGOD

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



cbr400rr said:


> Mine did not come with a battery. Hmm..


When I was ordering my twisties from 2 different sellers in 2 different countries one came with battery and the other one did not. It is possible that some countries/states have laws against shipping lithium batteries with normal post? Either way it's not that unusual that D25C don't come with a battery.


----------



## Kilovolt

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



cbr400rr said:


> Mine did not come with a battery. Hmm..




Mine came from ledfiretorches.co.uk and UK dealers tend to supply a free battery with the lights they sell, it is common practice.

They even mention it in the box contents:


*Package & contents

*Retail boxed D25C clicky LED Flashlight, spare o-ring, high quality lanyard, high quality rigid nylon holster, instructions plus 1 x CR123 battery


----------



## cbr400rr

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



ClassicGOD said:


> When I was ordering my twisties from 2 different sellers in 2 different countries one came with battery and the other one did not. It is possible that some countries/states have laws against shipping lithium batteries with normal post? Either way it's not that unusual that D25C don't come with a battery.


I don't think there is any law for shipping with lithium batteries in my state. I have received flashlights with lithium batteries before. Did everyone who got TIc get a battery? I ordered from LJ.


----------



## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



cbr400rr said:


> Mine did not come with a battery. Hmm..



+1


----------



## biglights

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I did not get a battery with mine.


----------



## kaabob

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

ESC, those sexy pictures put me over... just ordered a D25C Ti from lightjunction. sigh.


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Dagnabbit my store only carries the D25A, but it doesn't really offer me much more over what I have now... I want the C version!


----------



## ViciousV

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



biglights said:


> I did not get a battery with mine.



My D25c Ti clicky didn't come with a battery. 
The D25a alum clicky I bought my Dad didn't come with one either.

The 2 D25c twists (one alum, one Ti) both came with batteries. 

Cost cutting measures?


----------



## lebox97

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

FYI, ET has not been shipping batteries with lights for 2-3 months due to current International postal/shipping carrier restrictions.

Cheers
Tod


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Here is a quick and dirty beam shot comparison, Cool tint D25A Ti Twisty on the left and the new D25CTi clicky Neutral tint on the right (both on high)


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Here are some shots of the tail switch and parts. Some observations, the o-ring is really cheap and small like the twisty version although with this light I can screw the tail on and off without having in bind up and pinch the o ring. I gave up trying to put the tail cap back on with the clip installed and took the clip off to put the cap back on, the clip was causing it to bind and not want to screw on straight (really a person would have no reason to take the tail cap off unless the switch went sour on you). The UI kinda sucks on this light, the strobes are way too easy to get to and there are far too many. Oddly enough, contrary to the specs I just tried it on a Ultrafire cr123 which didn't fit due to being too long (going to order some Eagletac cell from Tod soon) but when using the light I still had all of the modes, moonlight, med and high and the pesky annoying strobes but I couldn't tighten the head to try out the turbo mode and see how bright it could really get. The switch looks very cheap, curious how much clicking it will take before it goes out.


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

One last batch of pics. Thought it would be nice to have a size comparison as I always appreciate seeing those the most. The D25C Ti is almost exactly the same diameter as my old Nitecore D10 and about 13mm shorter.


----------



## kaabob

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

ESC thanks for the photos... impressive skillz u got there!
It's a shame the switch looks cheapy. I also wish they hid the strobe and SOS a lot better ...


----------



## fnj

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



EspionageStudio.Com said:


> Here is a quick and dirty beam shot comparison, Cool tint D25A Ti Twisty on the left and the new D25CTi clicky Neutral tint on the right (both on high)



Ugh. Puke green or orange brown. I'll have to pass until it's available with the Nichia 219.


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

fnj, it is quite good in person. Hard to capture the true color on camera. I will try to get it spot on if I get a chance. The Nichia 219 are the bomb though I have admit ;-)


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Excellent p*o*ographic material, ESC, the pictures cant get any better than this, thanks a million for your efforts and sharing. With these photos in mind I will be mentally prepared and for sure not disappointed when my D25A sample finally reaches me, it is still in transit sent from IlluminationGear. We can see now the critical points which HighlanderNorth was addressing: the wall thickness is thin (as is expected with compact SS and Ti lights!) and therefore the threads grooves cant be very deep at the tail. No problem to me because: the tailcap isnt used for twisting operation (UI), should rarely be opened, could easily be sealed with sticky silicone grease, and is made out of strong material after all: Titanium alloy!
I am sure that the tail cap threads meet the sufficient strength requirement to be long-lasting for at least *10 yrs* (see the FREE performance guarantee/warranty policy by Eagtac). Thanks to the generous Eagtac warranty and the friendly customer service (by the manufacturer), there is nothing to worry about. The length of the tail cap threads (2 full turns before it screws off) should be sufficient as well, let's trust the Eagtac designers and engineers.

The o-ring .. hmm yah.. could be replaced by a thicker one, if wanted. No big deal.

The clicky switch itself looks to be of standard quality. If you want to know what a _really _cheap clicky switch is have a look at the spare clicky packaged with Xeno S3A and Xeno E03. _That _is of cheap build quality!! As can be seen from ti-force's legendary Quark lego thread, the Quark clicky switch is of identical build quality and i find it's very good standard quality. I have yet to see clickies (assembled with China-made production lights) of much better build quality, maybe someone could share photos of such. Afaik, Klarus, Jetbeam, 4Sevens (and maybe Fenix and SWM too!) use the same build quality switches in their premium lights. Yes, they cost less than 2 bucks shipped!









It is a good idea to remove the pocket clip before fiddling with the tail cap. Somehow i like the minimalist constructional design of the tail cap switch (loose clicky + washer + rubber boot cover). We learn from this example that it is impossible to design a clicky tail which is even shorter (smaller) than this, great example!!

By the way, i am deeply impressed by the flawless finish of the Titanium. Hand polished it looks!! Thanks again for the great photos. 

How would you guys describe the tint and beam beauty on your samples?


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

One more pic! I took what I thought was a better representation of the tint:


----------



## melty

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



fnj said:


> Ugh. Puke green or orange brown. I'll have to pass until it's available with the Nichia 219.



That photo is not representative of my neutral tint (or my cool-white LC2 for that matter). I'd guess the white balance setting is tinting the colors slightly yellow, which would explain the green/yellow appearance of the beams. My light is white with maybe just a hint of yellow in the hotspot (or it could just be the spill creating that illusion), but nothing like ES's photo.

Edit:


EspionageStudio.Com said:


> One more pic! I took what I thought was a better representation of the tint:



Yes, that's much more representative of my tint.


----------



## fnj

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



EspionageStudio.Com said:


> fnj, it is quite good in person. Hard to capture the true color on camera. I will try to get it spot on if I get a chance. The Nichia 219 are the bomb though I have admit ;-)





melty said:


> That photo is not representative of my neutral tint (or my cool-white LC2 for that matter). I'd guess the white balance setting is tinting the colors slightly yellow, which would explain the green/yellow appearance of the beams. My light is white with maybe just a hint of yellow in the hotspot (or it could just be the spill creating that illusion), but nothing like ES's photo.





EspionageStudio.Com said:


> One more pic! I took what I thought was a better representation of the tint:



Yes; understood that camera images on a monitor are a minetrap and not a very fair way to judge tints; also I didn't really want to sound harsh or like I was singling out just the EagleTac. Actually, the human eye in person powerfully hides perception of tints for bright beams. In fact most people can't judge tint for beans unless A-B'ing. That said, I have a number of lights that are too greenish for my ideal taste, but still get pleasure out of them. I do notice that my old XRE 7090 lights seem to be the best compared to the distinctly lower tint quality of 99% of modern emitters.

Super nice pictures of the lights themselves, BTW.


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Thanks for the compliments. The beamshots are hard! I messed with the white balance in camera and in post processing, had a hard time trying to get it as my eye saw it. The latest pics is close, the first one was with a point and shoot and yeah, not even close. Glad people are digging the pics, hopefully soon you will be enjoying the light too, they are pretty nice for the $!


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Anyone able to provide accurate weight measurements of _any _of the Eagtac Ti's without installed battery? (Mini, Clicky, 1xCR123A, 1xAA)

We could compare the data then with the official specs


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Thanks for posting all those great shots. I do a lot of product/macro photography myself, and would love to expand this on flashlights, but I only have the lonely Fenix E11 now 
Looking to add one D25A Ti clicky and possibly a form of warm tinted XM-L with an 18650.

If you have a graycard, the easiest way is to just always shoot with a consistent white balance like the daylight most of my flashes give. I tend to shoot raw and balance everything on 5500K + 10. That way my flashes are pure white, but the flashlight might turn up any color by comparison. Would be the most honest anyway.


----------



## gunga

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Awesome photos! I was very interested in this light, but bit unsure about the levels and modes. I'm still not keen on the levels, so may skip this...


----------



## biglights

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



fnj said:


> Ugh. Puke green or orange brown. I'll have to pass until it's available with the Nichia 219.



Looks like you wont be getting one then. My light is the neutral and it is awesome. For the price you can not beat this.


----------



## cave dave

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



shelm said:


> Anyone able to provide accurate weight measurements of _any _of the Eagtac Ti's without installed battery? (Mini, Clicky, 1xCR123A, 1xAA)
> 
> We could compare the data then with the official specs



Ti clicky 1xAA is 31g without battery and 58g with an eneloop. It has a pleasing heft to it but is still lighter than the aluminum 1AA Quark or Xeno E03 (75g w/ eneloop).

Anybody else annoyed by the very noticeable *PWM *on the moonlight mode? I'd guess its in the 50hz range. I think its the worst I've ever seen.


----------



## af112566

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

thats strange,,,my aluminum d25a has no pwm and my ti d25c doesnt either.as far as i know these are current controlled.


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



GordoJones88 said:


> Let us know if you get distinct brightness levels different
> than the last column on this chart using a (*16340 4.2v*) vs (*CR123 3.0v*).
> 
> The aluminum D25C uses the *A950RC* circuit,
> and the titanium D25C uses the *A950RC II* circuit.
> 
> Edit: Highlander reports his D25C Titanium using an RCR123 is like column 2. Anybody else?







EspionageStudio.Com said:


> Oddly enough, contrary to the specs I just tried it on a *Ultrafire CR123* which didn't fit due to being too long, but when using the light I still had all of the modes, moonlight, med and high and the pesky annoying strobes but I couldn't tighten the head to try out the turbo mode and see how bright it could really get.




I assume you meant you tried it with an *Ultrafire RCR123* 4.2v 16340?

And the Med, Hi, Turbo look like the CR123 brightness levels modes in column 2?

Since the Titanium circuit is different than the aluminum circuit,
the Ti model may not have direct drive that puts Med, High, and Turbo at the same brightness level.

Anybody try an AW IMR 16340 to see if the Titanium model hits 750 lumens like column 4?


----------



## Kilovolt

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



shelm said:


> Anyone able to provide accurate weight measurements of _any _of the Eagtac Ti's without installed battery? (Mini, Clicky, 1xCR123A, 1xAA)
> 
> We could compare the data then with the official specs




1 x 123 Ti twisty = 36 grams

1 x 123 Ti clicky = 42 gams

1 x AA Ti twisty = 30 grams


all without batteries


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Thanks cave dave and Kilovolt for the weight measurements!!

The eagletacDOTcom website doesnt list *any* weight data for the Ti's, so these are the first public weight measurements on the WWW, thanks again for sharing!

comment: 31g/42g for the Ti Clicky's is *heavier *than i had expected, argh!


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Is the D25C Ti Clicky anywhere to be found in the world still? For some reason there's better options for AA's, but the CR123 version is quite a nice wannahave...


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



TweakMDS said:


> Is the D25C Ti Clicky anywhere to be found in the world still?


lightjunction is slowly running out of stock of the D25C Ti Clicky (NW, CW), illuminationgear seems to have all Ti Clicky's (AA, CR123, NW, CW) still in stock with 7.50$ worldwide shipping. both dealers are CPF supporters afaik!


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Thanks ordering now! Does CPF supporters mean I get a discount ^^ 

Edit: ordered a Ti D25C NW. As a photographer I can't stand the cool white tints, so NW out of a CR123 would be lovely for some light painting. It also looks great.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



TweakMDS said:


> Does CPF supporters mean I get a discount ^^



yes. check the coupon codes at
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?181841-quot-CPF-Specials-quot-webpages-dealers


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



shelm said:


> yes. check the coupon codes at
> http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?181841-quot-CPF-Specials-quot-webpages-dealers



Eh, too late I fear... ^^ 
I was in a hurry to order (not for running out but had a meeting), and even forgot shipping. I added a separate order with the shipping, and did mention this thread.


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I was complaining about the UI of this light in some earlier posts and now that I have had some time to play with it and figure it out (turns out I had mode memory enabled) it isn't as bad as I had previously stated. I still think there are about 4 too many strobe modes but as long as the mode memory isn't enabled they are fairly easy to miss, just like on the twisty version. With mode memory enabled you can't just wait a couple seconds to let it reset and start over at low, it would always picks up where you leave off, and it would get me into the strobes far too easily. I like a light that comes on in the order of low med high, and also this one will allow you to do moon med high (I like that even more). In my opinion the moon should be the normal low, and the low the medium. I have it set up to be in moon mode on first click, then if I want high I just turn the head 1/4 turn to tighten and turbo comes on and it is nice and bright, very floody too. I look forward to hearing other members opinions soon.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



EspionageStudio.Com said:


> Here are some shots of the tail switch and parts. Some observations, the o-ring is really cheap and small like the twisty version although with this light I can screw the tail on and off without having in bind up and pinch the o ring. I gave up trying to put the tail cap back on with the clip installed and took the clip off to put the cap back on, the clip was causing it to bind and not want to screw on straight (really a person would have no reason to take the tail cap off unless the switch went sour on you). The UI kinda sucks on this light, the strobes are way too easy to get to and there are far too many. Oddly enough, contrary to the specs I just tried it on a Ultrafire cr123 which didn't fit due to being too long (going to order some Eagletac cell from Tod soon) but when using the light I still had all of the modes, moonlight, med and high and the pesky annoying strobes but I couldn't tighten the head to try out the turbo mode and see how bright it could really get. The switch looks very cheap, curious how much clicking it will take before it goes out.





I dont think its a good idea to completely dismantle the Ti D25's. Even though the instructions call for you to "remove the tailcap and install battery", that it completely incorrect. They made a mistake in those instructions, because you are supposed to remove the front end(head) and not the tail cap to install batteries. They have a picture of this in the manual below the incorrect written instructions, but that picture shows a D25 model that looks black and slightly different than the Ti D25A and D25C, so it causes some people to simply follow the written instructions, thinking that the picture is wrong, or the picture is of a different model.

The tail cap is not meant to be removed because the switch isnt connected to the cap, and there is a washer that will fall out, so it was never designed to be removed for battery install. The switch on my D25A was so tight that I had a hard time getting it back into the body straight. Plus, the threads are very short in the rear tail cap area, so they will easily strip or be cross threaded, which is a possibility because the pocket clip pushes against the body when you are trying to screw the tail cap back on, causing it to go on crooked and cross threading it.

So the tail cap should only ever be removed if you need to replace the switch or do some other repair. Otherwise, always install the batteries through by removing the head.

I emailed Eagletac about this issue, and they reiterated the fact that the batteries shouldnt be installed through the tail cap.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



shelm said:


> lightjunction is slowly running out of stock of the D25C Ti Clicky (NW, CW), illuminationgear seems to have all Ti Clicky's (AA, CR123, NW, CW) still in stock with 7.50$ worldwide shipping. both dealers are CPF supporters afaik!




I left a comment and question on one of goinggear's youtube videos about the D25's, and I mentioned to him that Eagleatac was producing and sending out more of these Ti D25A and D25C's to certain dealers, and he commented that he was going to be receiving some Ti D25's at some point.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



wwilson said:


> I purchased an EagleTac D25A Clicky Ti CREE Neutral White XM-L LED Flashlight yesterday and was curious if the Titanium Innovations CRAA CR14505 3V lithium battery
> 
> (http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...-(CR14505)-3V-1500mAh-Lithium-AA-size-battery)
> 
> would pose any threat to this light. According to Eagletac's literature, the operating voltage is 0.8V - 3.0V so I'm thinking that it would work. I also have duraloops on standby if needed...
> 
> Please let me know your thoughts...
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Billy



Hi Billy, it is safe to assume that for short bursts the cell will not harm your light, same story with 14500's. However you will most likely lose all intermediary brightness levels (Med, Hi) since the light goes into direct drive, same story with 14500's. Please report when you have tested the kinda exotic  cell in your light, thanks!


----------



## Kilovolt

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

After two days of use of my D25C clicky XP-G S2 CW with an AW RCR123 I got tired of loosing the intermediary levels and I moved to a primary CR123. The difference in max output is not that much but at least I can use it as a multi-level light.

Because I am a total weakling in the meantime I also ordered a D25A titanium clicky with the same LED, the idea (and a very clever one ...) is to have the two twisties with the XM-L and the two clickies with the XP-G. The total cost including a new handbag to keep the wife satisfied is steep ...


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



Kilovolt said:


> is to have the two twisties with the XM-L and the two clickies with the XP-G.


you could maybe swap heads (C mini<->C clicky, and A mini<->A clicky)?


----------



## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Since I carry multiple lights, it's not a problem with the modes. I use this light for its blinding hi on RCR and for the form factor. If I need super low, I have other lights. For me, the primary use of this light is to either come on high or come on in low. Both are fine for me. The tint is exceptional. 

Has anyone water tested this light? I'd be happy to volunteer mine to a dunk test for an entire battery cycle on low setting to avoid condensation behind the lens. I'd also be willing to freeze the light in a block of ice while turned on.

Let me know if anyone wants me to run these tests.


----------



## Kilovolt

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



shelm said:


> you could maybe swap heads (C mini<->C clicky, and A mini<->A clicky)?




Of course yes but remembering that the two circuits are different as far as the modes are concerned. With the twisty's head the clicky works only when the same is serrated and does no longer have the additional switching. Nothing really wrong with that.

OTOH the twisty with the clicky's head can not be switched off and this is rather annoying ...


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



beach honda said:


> Let me know if anyone wants me to run these tests.



- 1 :shakehead

I dont see the usual ANSI FL-1 STANDARD ratings (water, impact, throw, ..) and, like 4sevens, Eagletac is wise enough not to claim any such thing. As long as the manufacturer doesnt claim for example impact resistance, i dont feel challenged or tempted to test their claims by myself. Instead i would take good care of the light and do my best not to let it drop on hard floor.

I once did drop tests and other tests with some Xeno and the lights failed. Today i regret that i didnt record the tests on video for youtube. To me, such tests only make real sense if they are recorded on video.

Got a video cam? 


Thanks Kilovolt for the explanation!!


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Did anyone get both clickies and can compare head to head?


----------



## saypat

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

anyone tell me the warranty on these from EagleTac?

thanks...

also, is that new EagleTac protected RCR 'ok' at half the price of the AWs?


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



saypat said:


> anyone tell me the warranty on these from EagleTac?
> 
> thanks...
> 
> also, is that new EagleTac protected RCR 'ok' at half the price of the AWs?



Per Eagletac-usa.com (I think others offer a similar warranty depeneding on which dealer, illuminationgear.com stands by theirs too)

We guarantee EagleTac flashlights to be free from defects in workmanship and materials for the Lifetime of the original owner. We will repair or replace our products if it is determined by us to be defective. Electronics, chargers and rechargeable batteries are covered for a period of one year with proof of purchase. Normal wear and tear including batteries is not covered, nor is damage resulting from abuse, neglect, battery leakage, use of other than EagleTac batteries or accessories, or altering this product from its original state.

In the case that you are not satisfied, returns are allowed within 30 days of receipt as long as the product is still in new and unused condition. Return shipping costs are the responsibility of the buyer. Please contact us first before returning a product for exchange/refund/or warranty repair.

The Batteries are re-badged Panasonic cells, made in Japan. One could assume they are good. At least they will fit!


----------



## cave dave

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



EspionageStudio.Com said:


> The Batteries are re-badged Panasonic cells, made in Japan. One could assume they are good. At least they will fit!


 I think he was asking about the RCR123s not the Panasonic based 18650s. I don't think we know who makes Eagletac RCR123s.


----------



## kaabob

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



cave dave said:


> I think he was asking about the RCR123s not the Panasonic based 18650s. I don't think we know who makes Eagletac RCR123s.


My thoughts also -- I was a bit confused there.


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

oops, right you are. I failed to notice that the 16340's were not the same build as the larger ones. My bad, that is a big help for me though. Might wait until someone reports the quality on those ;-)


----------



## cave dave

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Ok as far as I can tell the lumen outputs as speced by Eagletac make no sense and are noticeably off.

For the EagleTac D25A Clicky Ti here is what is on their site:
*1/10/107/176 LED lumen* (for XM-L U2)

The issue with this is that there aren't 4 levels, there are two groups of three levels plus a Turbo mode. The moonlight group dims the output range for both low and med.

I have the Ti D25A clicky XM-L T6 N.W. LED which in theory would be 7% lower than the XML U2 cool.

Using other known lights as a reference I get very approximate lumen values using a ceiling bounce method. 

*Approx lumen values for Ti D25A XM-L T6 N.W. LED* 
Stock Group 1:
Low: ~ 5 lm
Med: ~ 20 lm
High: ~ 100 lm
Turbo: ~ 145 lm
High after Turbo for 90sec: Did not measure

Moonlight group 2:
Low/Moonlight: ~0.2 lm (PWM like effect is only noticeable in this mode) 
Med: ~13 lm
High: : ~ 100 lm
Turbo: ~ 145 lm
High after Turbo for 90sec: : Did not measure

~ Note: my XML in the Ti light on turbo is a tad dimmer overall than my XP-G R4 neutral Al version. The XML also has much less throw, but has a brighter spill area, and is not as neutral white (it's yellower). So much for the "premium" XML LED. I prefer the XPG R4 neutral. It's too bad the XP-G neutral isn't avail in Titanium.


----------



## Kilovolt

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



EspionageStudio.Com said:


> Did anyone get both clickies and can compare head to head?




My 25A is in the mail, when I receive it I will do that even if posting a pic *for you *makes me ashame ...


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I'll be delighted to see it  I'd be really curious to see if these models have similar output on 4.2v cells.


----------



## saypat

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Well, my D25C Ti Clicky arrived today from LJ. Fast shipping from North Carolina to CA, sent Tues arrived Thurs. First thought was how lite weight this light is, seems perfect with a cell in it however. This light is a BEAUTY! Well worth the asking price. Finish is perfect. Head loosened modes worked with an Ultrafire 16340. That's one dazzling strobe they have in there!!! So, one gets turbo and strobe with head tightened. And then with head loose you get L,M,H, and all your flashing modes. Can someone in the know explain in simple English in a way that I can follow/understand, the rest, the programmable stuff, cuz it's really confusing to me. I couldn't even get the moonlight mode to work. I'll have to go back and watch Selfbuilt's review. But if anyone can explain it simply, I would greatly appreciate it. Maybe others as well ") Thank you!


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

saypat, you're saying that with 3.7V Li-Ion with loosened head you get Lo-Med-Hi-Blinkies, and with head tightened Turbo-Strobe?? That's news, because that doesnt sound like direct drive!

Nice photo by the way!


----------



## saypat

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



shelm said:


> saypat, you're saying that with 3.7V Li-Ion with loosened head you get Lo-Med-Hi-Blinkies, and with head tightened Turbo-Strobe?? That's news, because that doesnt sound like direct drive!
> 
> Nice photo by the way!



thanks Shelm, Canon EOS 30D ") I only get the head loosened modes with my 16340 (Ultrafire) as it is too long. Doesn't permit me to tighten the head down for Turbo-Strobe. Read Selfbuilts review again and again and again and it will make your head spin. Looking for a simplification of the UI regarding group 1, group 2, mode memory. Until then having some fun with it.


----------



## EPVQ30

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

try a primary. then you can test all your modes.


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



saypat said:


> Can someone in the know explain in simple English in a way that I can follow/understand, the rest, the programmable stuff, cuz it's really confusing to me. I couldn't even get the moonlight mode to work.



It's really easy.

Mode Memory On/Off:
with head tightened, 3 quick little twists back to head tightened

Moolight Mode On/Off:
with head loosened, 3 quick little twists back to head loosened

moon -> med -> hi
low -> med -> hi


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



saypat said:


> Head loosened modes worked with an Ultrafire 16340.
> And then with head loose you get L,M,H.




Are the Lo -> Med -> Hi modes distinct from one another with a 16340?

Nobody here has tested the D25C Titanium with an AW ICR/IMR 16340 ?
to see if it goes Direct Drive and unfortunately makes Med, Hi, Turbo all the same brightness 750 lumens?

I can easily fit an AW ICR Protected 16340 or an AW IMR 16340 in my D25C aluminum.

The aluminum D25C uses the A950RC circuit,
and the titanium D25C uses the A950RC II circuit.


----------



## saypat

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



GordoJones88 said:


> It's really easy.
> 
> Mode Memory On/Off:
> with head tightened, 3 quick little twists back to head tightened
> 
> Moolight Mode On/Off:
> with head loosened, 3 quick little twists back to head loosened
> 
> moon -> med -> hi
> low -> med -> hi



thanks Gordo. I think I have it figured out. But if you have the Mode Memory 'on' it doesn't affect the Turbo/Strobe on group 2. Running mine on a 16340 (Ultrafire), in group 1, the low is discernible but I think the medium and high are the same. I'll just use a primary I believe.


----------



## Ualnosaj

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Received the D25C Ti, D25A Ti Clicky and D25A Ti Mini today.

Build quality is disappointing though the box is nice. The D25A Ti Clicky is defective. It takes excessive force to go into "Group 2" Turbo mode. Cleaned the threads and deburred to no avail. Contacting LJ to see for replacement.


----------



## saypat

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

... more clicky pickys:


----------



## kaabob

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



saypat said:


> Well, my D25C Ti Clicky arrived today from LJ. Fast shipping from North Carolina to CA, sent Tues arrived Thurs. First thought was how lite weight this light is, seems perfect with a cell in it however. This light is a BEAUTY! Well worth the asking price. Finish is perfect. Head loosened modes worked with an Ultrafire 16340. That's one dazzling strobe they have in there!!! So, one gets turbo and strobe with head tightened. And then with head loose you get L,M,H, and all your flashing modes. Can someone in the know explain in simple English in a way that I can follow/understand, the rest, the programmable stuff, cuz it's really confusing to me. I couldn't even get the moonlight mode to work. I'll have to go back and watch Selfbuilt's review. But if anyone can explain it simply, I would greatly appreciate it. Maybe others as well ") Thank you!





saypat said:


> ... more clicky pickys:


Beautiful pics! 
BTW is your clicky switch Glow-in-the-Dark?
It looks like it's got a green hue to it.
I just received my D25C Ti and mine DOES NOT glow =(


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

ESC's rubber boot cover is GITD!! see his photos


----------



## Kilovolt

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Mine glows for sure.


----------



## kaabob

ahh....

yea just realized it needed more light to make it glow more lol. guess it doesn't capture light as well as I expected it to


----------



## shelm

i've got an original Eagtac GITD rubber boot cover for the T20C2 MkII. it was included in the packaged accessories. It looks "white" in direct sun light but when in darkness it glows "green" for countless hours. Amazing high quality GITD stuff. i am wondering if yours is of the same great quality as my T20C2 MkII's.

i am still waiting for the arrival of D25A Clicky Ti.


----------



## Kilovolt

kaabob said:


> ahh....
> 
> yea just realized it needed more light to make it glow more lol. guess it doesn't capture light as well as I expected it to





... besides it is a GITD rubber boot not a GITS one ... :devil:



GITS = Glow In The Sun


----------



## GordoJones88

Kilovolt said:


> ... besides it is a GITD rubber boot not a GITS one ... :devil:
> 
> GITS = Glow In The Sun


 

It stills glows in the sunlight . . .


----------



## cbr400rr

Running a rcr123 in the D25c, and noticed the light would shut off. Pulled out my battery and checked the voltage and it read 3.4v. Does the D25c in direct drive turn off automatically when they reach a certain voltage in my case it was 3.4? I put new fresh one in and it ran ok. (for now)


----------



## shelm

cbr400rr said:


> and checked the voltage and it read 3.4v.


"and it read" means that the 3.4V is resting voltage and that voltage under load is maybe 2.9V (large drag). you know that when the voltage passes the 3.60V threshold *under load *the cell is considered "pretty much empty"? once that happens, the voltage under load drops within seconds (e.g. 90sec) from 3.599V to 2.75V (Protected cell) or even less (2.5V, 2.0V). Neglecting the 90sec, in practice a cell is regarded as empty (except for the 90sec) as soon as the cell voltage (under load or resting voltage, in this case it doesnt matter because of minimal drag at this point!) reaches 3.60V.


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

I broke down and ordered a D25A Ti from illuminationgear... I feel pretty ridiculous right now, I sure didn't "need" it but I justified it somehow. I felt the D25C was just a tad too short in hand. I love the output though, and the tint. At some point when they get scarce, I might just sell off the one I end up not using. More pics to follow when it arrives, I will pair them both up together unless someone beats me too it. Should arrive on Monday, pics hopefully posted by Tuesday


----------



## Ualnosaj

Not the best pic but it highlights the tints. The D25C and A clicky neutrals are different. The D25A Mini has a slight green tint.

The D25A clicky is a good size and slim. If I didn't have the Preon 1 Ti high CRI, this would probably be my pocket carry choice.







___________
Posted from my phone.


----------



## beach honda

I know Shelm is against it, but has anyone done a water dunk test in a glass of water while on low mode? I mean, it says IPX-8 water resistance rating.

Come ON people!

I buy lights that can take a little abuse and if this isn't one of them, I'll sell it quick on the marketplace for a fantastic price. Don't get me wrong, I love the lumens, tint, form factor, etc... But I also l like rugged and dependable. Probably my two most important decisions when purchasing a light. I'm a hard use gear kinda fella.

Thoughts?


----------



## saypat

there is NO WAY I am going to buy more than one of these Titanium Clickies, no way! Post all the pictures you want, rant all you want, tell me how many of each type you have, etc, etc - I'm only staying with the one I have!


----------



## gunga

I'll buy your user Honda.



Just don't like the mode spacing.


----------



## beach honda

Gunga,

If i do happen to decide to sell for whatever reason, even though i have yet to find any real reason as of yet. I will keep you in mind.


----------



## TweakMDS

Mine's in the USPS sorting station in Miami now, will probably be another week or so until it reaches the Netherlands...
Now if EagleTac would be so kind as to also make the D25LC2 clicky into a Titanium version ^^


----------



## Ualnosaj

beach honda said:


> I know Shelm is against it, but has anyone done a water dunk test in a glass of water while on low mode? I mean, it says IPX-8 water resistance rating.
> 
> Come ON people!
> 
> I buy lights that can take a little abuse and if this isn't one of them, I'll sell it quick on the marketplace for a fantastic price. Don't get me wrong, I love the lumens, tint, form factor, etc... But I also l like rugged and dependable. Probably my two most important decisions when purchasing a light. I'm a hard use gear kinda fella.
> 
> Thoughts?



So just un on low in a glass of water? For how long?



________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this email.


----------



## beach honda

For 1 complete battery cycle or at least 20 to thirty minutes. Use moon mode to minimize heat. The object is just to see if it will keep sealed and whatnot for a bit under the water. I keep all my o rings well lubed and threads cleaned with light lube. I take it in the shower with no problems yet. 

Will report with further findings.

cB


----------



## GordoJones88

beach honda said:


> I take it in the shower with no problems yet.




What do you clip it to?


----------



## shelm

beach honda said:


> I keep all my o rings well lubed and threads cleaned with light lube.


i hardly use it because i never go swimming with my lights but for such cases, water-proofing, the best of the best "lube" is silicone grease. Both on the threads and the o-rings. Silicone grease is thick (very thick!) and sticky. professional divers use it too to water-proof their equipment.

i have it, works well to seal your flashlight threads and o-rings.


----------



## RonnieBarlow

I got mine.

It's my new EDC.


----------



## beach honda

GordoJones88 said:


> What do you clip it to?




I candle stand it right next to me on a bottle of shampoo.


----------



## gunga

I got to see one today. Still not sure about the levels but it's a cool little torch!


----------



## Kilovolt

OK, OK, I know I don't have the black clickies but maybe I'll stop here ... :ironic:


----------



## shelm

Kilovolt said:


> OK, OK, I know I don't have the black clickies but maybe I'll stop here ... :ironic:


Very interesting compilation, i like it! We see 4 different form factors or diameter:length relations or proportions. We could now run a poll which diameter:length ratio appears to be the most harmonic and beautiful. Not too fatty (Sunawayman C10R) and not too slim (penlights, kate, moss) but about perfect. Of course the perception of perfect beauty depends on one's individual taste but it would be interesting to learn if one ratio is regarded as the _most_ perfect by a _majority _of votes. Numbering from left to right: 1, 2, 3, 4, imho #1 looks too short (not fatty .. but too short!), #4 looks too long or slim, while both #3 and #2 look quite optimal and pleasing. If i had to choose between these two, i would choose the slimmer one (candidate #2) because to me the slimmer ones (after a Dr. Atkins diet) always look more attractive, more elegant, or sexier.

Too bad  that my #4 is still in transit and that it doesnt have the sexy proportions of #2!! Thanks for sharing the photo. Only ESC could do it better..


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

Finally, the pic I have been looking for! Thank you Kilovolt for sharing that beautiful family photo ;-) Shelm, I think #2 looks the most proportionate but in regular use I think I would take #4 just for the clicky. #3 is close, but a bit too short and fat imo. When I grab my light, I like to have the light in a closed fist, with my thumb on the button. The d25C I just felt was too short for _me _and the way I edc a light. I love the light though, I have made it my bedside nightstand light and don't plan on getting rid of it anytime soon. Lets hope yours arrives to you soon Shelm!


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

Mailman just dropped off D25A Clicky. Couldn't resist a few shots for the betterment of mankind.

D25A and D25C Clicky lights with D25M Ti Twisty AA for size comparison:





Here is the AA Clicky and Twisty:





Random Pics:





Tailcap GITD:





Tailcap uncharged:





Both of my Ti clickies have an odd gap between the tail and the body tube?:













Turned the lights off and the Lights on:


----------



## Kilovolt

EspionageStudio.Com said:


> Mailman just dropped off D25A Clicky. Couldn't resist a few shots for the betterment of mankind.




:twothumbs


----------



## Adobo

I already have the cool AA version and I just ordered a neutral AA. Am I crazy? :naughty:


----------



## shelm

So many crazy people here :thumbsup:
Yet again nothing in my mail but i am very confident that this week's gonna be it.
Fantastic photos, ESC, thanks man!! ( How much time does it take for such a shooting session? )

Anyone tried 14500's in the AA version and compared its output with Xeno E03 or any other 14500 light (Balder, ..)?


----------



## Ualnosaj

The Eagletac gets really warm on 14500 really fast and isn't really suitable. It direct drives and medium essentially becomes like high.



________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this email.


----------



## Kilovolt

Ualnosaj said:


> The Eagletac gets really warm on 14500 really fast and isn't really suitable. It direct drives and medium essentially becomes like high.




I agree, L91 is the way to go, plenty of light and all the right levels.


----------



## shelm

Kilovolt said:


> L91 is the way to go, plenty of light


Thanks for the info, i never had Energizer Ultimate Lithium L91 before, a 4-pack is at least ~7$ (6€) shipped on ebay/amazon, ouch. Question, is the D25A noticeably brighter on 1x L91 (nominal voltage is *1.5V*) in comparison to 1x Eneloop (nominal voltage is *1.2V *but freshly charged has 1.50V and is regarded empty at 1.20V resting voltage)?

Let's be honest, there is hardly _any _1x 14500 light on the market which does not get hot on Max-mode (Turbo-mode). The Xeno E03 gets hot fast on 14500 too, the thick-walled Klarus P1A too, and the Quark X AA-body loaded with 14500 too. And I bet the Balder SE-1 too. And Sunawayman 1xAA probably too.

The Xeno E03 officially supports 14500 (runtime is ~20mins) but it does not mean that the user can leave it unattended in tailstand for more than 2 mins without burning her hands after this short time on High.


----------



## Kilovolt

I would say that yes, there is a noticeable difference in output between a NiMH (1.2V) and a lithium primary (1.7V). The max output is difficult to judge with the naked eye but what I can surely notice is that the low is much higher with the L91. 

L91's are expensive here at my shopping center but surely not as much as you say probably because of the shipping costs. In any case I don't think this is a light to be used to stun friends at the local pub and a few lumens more or less don't make a great difference when walking the dog ...


----------



## Ualnosaj

shelm said:


> The Xeno E03 officially supports 14500 (runtime is ~20mins) but it does not mean that the user can leave it unattended in tailstand for more than 2 mins without burning her hands after this short time on High.



The problem with the Eagletac is that it gets super hot a couple minutes -- attributed to the super slim (and thin walled!) size. I'd sooner trust my LD01 SS to run 10440 longer than the Eagletac on med->turbo with 14500.


----------



## shelm

Ualnosaj said:


> I'd sooner trust my LD01 SS to run 10440 longer than the Eagletac


I have always been wondering why my LD01 R4 does not get any hot (warm yes but not hot!) on 10440. I run 10440 in my Fenix all the time. On Med (bright!) and on High (a little brighter!), and after some 20 mins i would have to recharge the cell anyway, so it's impossible to run the Fenix on Med or High for longer than 20-30mins anyway. No harm done so far. I love the Fenix!! Surely doesnt get as hot as for example the iTP A3 EOS with 10440!

So the D25A Ti gets really hot, huh? Maybe it has something to do with the good heat conduction:






...which means that *one* has to control the dissipating heat with one's own cold hands. If the cooling succeeds e.g. on a cold winter evening, then one could run the 14500 for its full battery life because the circuit itself is designed to tolerate the high current (2.0A? 1.5A?) of the direct drive.


----------



## gunga

Where's a good place to get a D25A for us Canadian folks? In neutral tint of course...


----------



## kaabob

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I've followed the advice of other to replace batteries by removing the head instead of the tailcap.
The threads seem very squeaky/in need of lube on my lights also. What have you all be using to lube it up?

Nyogel?
Krytox mix (pricey, but it's suppose to be the best for Ti lights?)

Feedback would be great!
First Ti flashlight I've bought. Ti virgin no more.


----------



## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I use Nyogel 760G


----------



## Ualnosaj

beach honda said:


> I use Nyogel 760G



I use Nyogel 760G as well. I was stupid and misread the number. Now I have five tubes the size of toothpaste tubes in lube!



________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this message.


----------



## Ualnosaj

gunga said:


> Where's a good place to get a D25A for us Canadian folks? In neutral tint of course...



Considered carrying them but the offerings aren't too outstanding other than the Ti. I bought mine personally from LightJunction w coupon.



________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this message.


----------



## TweakMDS

Fun little light, I just received mine from illuminationgear. I opted for the neutral version and I'm happy I did as this tone seems perfect. I'd have to do some greycard tests to compare it to a few other lights though. I liked the interface more than I thought, so that's a nice bonus


----------



## gunga

Ualnosaj said:


> Considered carrying them but the offerings aren't too outstanding other than the Ti. I bought mine personally from LightJunction w coupon.



Oh well. Thanks. Trying Mackoutdoors and failing that, illumination Gear! No more neutrals at Light Junction.


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

I will shill for illuminationgear.com every chance I get. I find Tod to be nothing but spectacular, cheap international shipping and great customer service! Free usa shipping on every order, and I think it is $8 for international. Go get some!


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com

I had a guy get ahold of me and say that his clicky doesn't work in the cold, I guess he hikes in very cold weather and says the Ti Clicky just won't turn on after being in the freezer. So I am going to do a freezer test tonight for 20 minutes and see if it works or not when I pull it out. Torture test! Might do the dunk test too if I feel adventurous.


----------



## stoli67

Got mine the other day... Single CR123 version.

For the money it is a great little light.. Works fine.. No issues.. 

I did try it with a RCR123 man it is bright and gets hot .

Still for the money it is a great light.


----------



## shelm

anyone else from the non-US territory still waiting for their Clicky Ti's to arrive? Mine from iG still hasnt reached me (ordered 06-15).

ouch.


----------



## TweakMDS

I ordered mine from iG as well and shipping to the Netherlands was only a few days. In fact, I think I ordered mine on the 20th and had it last week... Maybe your package has been taken up by customs though, that often happens to no fault of either sender or shipper.


----------



## shelm

Thanks! Well, such a 'iG fast delivery' message makes me worry even more if it means that i am the last in line to wait for the USPS parcel.

i dont want to be the last. i dont deserve it. wasnt i the one to be the first to start this thread?


----------



## TweakMDS

What does the USPS tracking site say?


----------



## shelm

here we go:



USPS tracking said:


> June 17, 20121:54 pm MIAMI, FL 33112Processed through USPS Sort FacilityJune 15, 2012Electronic Shipping Info ReceivedJune 15, 20122:22 pm ROCKLEDGE, FL 32955Acceptance



If the envelope passed thru the _local (=in town) _customs clearance office, i would have received a printed notification letter and i would be able to check with them if an envelope on my name was ever received (this year) by them from the national customs clearance center. So that's easy to check upon, i would only have to go there and ask _en persona_.

If their records are negative and show no entry, then .. something went wrong elsewhere, and i wouldnt know where or why. Fingers crossed for this week.


----------



## TweakMDS

Mine was:


June 23, 2012
5:16 am MIAMI, FL 33112Processed through USPS Sort FacilityJune 20, 2012
 
Electronic Shipping Info ReceivedJune 20, 2012
5:30 pm ROCKLEDGE, FL 32955Acceptance

And arrived at the 26th, but no delivery status on the USPS tracking. 
I'd give it a quick doublecheck with USPS to see where it is in their system...


----------



## unattended

d25a ti just arrived. 
hmmm. not bad but not that impressive either. 
tint is o.k.
moonlight isn´t low enough for me (i´m sold to infinite variable i think).
high is o.k., step to turbo is nearly invisible. back to mode 1 - total darkness (moon)
instead of the last used high.
the u i is not my favorite one - have i mentioned that i like infinite variable ? ; )

output on li-ion is wow but then, having no lows makes it totally useless in my eyes. 
adding the nonexistent turbo mode with nimh - who designed that circuit for aa ?

and had i read about the fact that they are neither waterproof nor shock resistant
(as stated somewhere above) i wouldn´t have ordered one. 
the more or less stupid blinking modes might make 
it a nice clubbing accessoire at least ; )

to be honest, this is the first light i bought that by first impression won´t make it into my "rotation".
not being "flashy" enough for me, maybe for its slim form factor it will be given as a present to a non-flashoholic.


----------



## Espionage Studio

I'ts been awfully quiet from shelm in the last few days, lets hope he finally got his and has been busy outside lighting things up.


----------



## shelm

EspionageStudio said:


> I'ts been awfully quiet from shelm in the last few days


iG told me that it could take several weeks because of random hold up in the customs office. i might have lost enthusiasm or interest by the time it finally reaches me 

LJ has still lots of stock of the CoolWhite. Maybe because it's hot summer .. the Clicky Ti's dont seem to be bestsellers on the market. The first wave of buyers is over, definitely.

ESC, how do *you* like the quality or thickness of the threads or the walls. Okay, or too thin? i think your photos didnt show in great detail the tail threads or the head threads or wall thickness. please dont bother. i am sure that the build quality is nice!


----------



## reppans

Can someone tell me how the D25A UI for constant light works?

moonlight on, loose bezel is 0.5/8/75 and tight bezel is 122/strobe?
moonlight off, loose bezel is 8/75/122 and tight bezel is 122/strobe?

or does moonlight off introduce a different set of lumen levels?


----------



## cave dave

reppans said:


> Can someone tell me how the D25A UI for constant light works?
> 
> moonlight on, loose bezel is 0.5/8/75 and tight bezel is 122/strobe?
> moonlight off, loose bezel is 8/75/122 and tight bezel is 122/strobe?
> 
> or does moonlight off introduce a different set of lumen levels?



Check out post #190 for my results:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ac-Clicky-Ti&p=3969177&viewfull=1#post3969177


----------



## Espionage Studio

shelm, I tried to illustrate the threads and the thickness in some of the pics from earlier, pm me with any special requests and I will bust something out for you. I don't find the threads or thinness to be an issue on the clicky model, and think for what it is it is and how much it costs it is a great light. The size of the light makes it wonderful to carry. The output on li-ion is plenty bright for me. I'm still up in the air on the durability overall, I'm super careful with most of my lights though and will probably never get to fully test the toughness of any of mine. My buddy though, works in a garage and drops his lights all the time on concrete. He has been through quite a few Nitecore D10's and D11s so I will be waiting to see how well his holds up to hard use. I also plan on shooting some pics of his lights after he beats the crap out of them some more. I hope yours shows up soon!


----------



## Be First

Hi everyone,

I'm (despite the seriously disappointing reverse clicky) interested in picking up a D25C Ti with the neutral XM-L. However, after looking at GoingGear's comparison videos, I'm concerned that the XM-L will be *really* lacking in throw when compared to the same light with an XP-G.

So, for those with experience with these lights, will I be giving up a noticeable amount of throw by choosing the neutral XM-L? Or will the higher output compensate? Oh, and in case it helps: I have a NW Quark 123, and an SC51w.

Thanks!


----------



## GordoJones88

Be First said:


> I'm interested in picking up a D25C Ti with the neutral XM-L. However, after looking at GoingGear's comparison videos, I'm concerned that the XM-L will be *really* lacking in throw when compared to the same light with an XP-G.
> 
> So, for those with experience with these lights, will I be giving up a noticeable amount of throw by choosing the neutral XM-L? Or will the higher output compensate?



I have the D25C XMLU2 cool-white. 
While white-wall hunting, my light has a nice overall white tint.
It has just a tiny little bit of a pinkish hue, and a slightly yellowish corona around the hotspot.
In my opinion, with this light, it might not be necessary to go neutral.

Selfbuilt reviewed the D25C XMLU2 and D25C XPGS2.
Take about 10% off for the neutral-white.

If the D25C XT-E R5 ever comes back out again from recall, I want one, splotchy beam profile or not.


----------



## Be First

Thanks Gordo! I forgot to look for Selfbuilt's reviews - they're always informative. 

I hadn't even considered the cool white. I've just always hated how they, at least to my eyes, tend to wash out color and depth. It seems that tint is very subjective; I guess everyone's eyes/preferences are different. That said, if the CW really is that nice, I'd love to have the additional lumens...


----------



## Espionage Studio

Be First said:


> I'm (despite the seriously disappointing reverse clicky) interested in picking up a D25C Ti with the neutral XM-L. However, after looking at GoingGear's comparison videos, I'm concerned that the XM-L will be *really* lacking in throw when compared to the same light with an XP-G.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I had the cool white twisty AA, assuming the beam looks the same as the clicky version, one would assume it to have a nice beam. It is what I would call a neutral tint... not too cold, not too warm. Their "neutral" tint lights in my opinion are on the warm side but I like them like that (it's something that pleases my eye, it's just how it is). Bright they are, with killer flood and enough throw to keep it interesting. I think you will like it, and if you don't the marketplace has your back.


----------



## reppans

cave dave said:


> Check out post #190 for my results:
> 
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ac-Clicky-Ti&p=3969177&viewfull=1#post3969177



Thanks cave dave, nice report. 

Kinda bizarre mode spacing. Was hoping moonlight range would cluster more tightly for night-adjusted eyes. Bummer about high and max being so close to each other - that's a wasted mode spot IMHO.


----------



## bansuri

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



cave dave said:


> ~ Note: my XML in the Ti light on turbo is a tad dimmer overall than my XP-G R4 neutral Al version. The XML also has much less throw, but has a brighter spill area, and is not as neutral white (it's yellower). So much for the "premium" XML LED. I prefer the XPG R4 neutral. It's too bad the XP-G neutral isn't avail in Titanium.


I've made similar statements when talking about swapping emitters from XP-G to XM-L and questioned if slight difference of emitter voltage requirements may cause a drop in output. The resounding response was that there is more light there, but it's more spread out so it doesn't appear as bright.
In other news: Big Brother has increased the chocolate ration to 20 grams per week.

Got a great deal on a D25A twisty in Marketplace, (*love it!) but my family misses my low output modes so I'll be picking up a Ti Clicky for late-night use.
Thanks to all who've contributed opinions, pics, specs, etc.

(*Thanks EspionageStudio, you're a top notch CPF-er!)


----------



## rdrfronty

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Well I just received my D25C Ti today and my brother just received his D25C aluminum 2 days ago. Both are very impressive lights. I was afraid the modes would be a little confusing, but once I had my light it was pretty straight forward. Nice UI. Not too different than my Quark TurboX 123^2. You have very easy access to two power levels, though the Eagletac has even easier access to the others.
We decided to test both of the lights in my PVC light box and also to test the throw. Both were almost identical and both were VERY impressive with both my 4sevens CR123's and my AW IMR 16340's. 
After 30 seconds they tested at 397L with the CR123 and a mighty 667L with the IMR's. They were actually at about 790L on the test start, but dropped pretty fast with the IMR's. With the CR123 they only dropped about 5L. 
They also did pretty good for stubby XML lights on throw. We tested them at 1M at 2470 lux with CR123 and a nice 4900 lux with the IMR's. Again both lights were with in a couple lumens and 100 or so lux, so I just listed one number for the pair. Even with the CR123's they can reach trees at 100 yards ok. 
Between my brother and me, we have quite a few little lights and have recently tested them too. These Eagletacs smoked their competition. Here is the results of all stubby light tests---
-----------------------------------------------
CR123-
Eagletac D25C clicky---397 Lumen & 2470 @ 1M
Olight i1 SS-------------234 Lumen & 1600 @ 1M
Olight i1 AL-------------215 Lumen & 1430 @ 1M
Quark Mini--------------165 Lumen & 2310 @ 1M
Quark MiniX-------------224 Lumen & 1620 @ 1M
Eagletac D25C twisty---243 Lumen & 3000 @ 1M
Jetbeam BC10----------230 Luman & 4100 @ 1M
------------------------------------------------------
AW IMR 16340
Eagletac D25C clicky---667 Lumen & 4900 @ 1M
Olight i1 SS-------------480 Lumen & 3400 @ 1M
Olight i1 AL-------------430 Lumen & 3200 @ 1M
Quark Mini--------------290 Lumen & 3840 @ 1M
Quark MiniX-------------452 Lumen & 3300 @ 1M
Eagletac D25C twisty---474 Lumen & 6200 @ 1M
Jetbeam BC10----------480 Lumen & 9000 @ 1M
-------------------------------------------------------
We didn't get numbers quite as high as Self Built, did but this chart shows how well this great Ti light did against the competition. Is there any other single CR123 that can touch these numbers? Especially on stock batteries--397L after 30 seconds is VERY impressive. My light is strong enough with the CR123 I don't think I will even need the IMR's.


----------



## beach honda

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Dang...already lost my clicky Ti. Scoured the house and the truck. I never lose lights!
I rather enjoyed that light. ...sigh


----------



## rdrfronty

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Man that sucks. My Ti is rapidly becoming one of my favorite lights. I love this little guy!


----------



## Espionage Studio

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



beach honda said:


> Dang...already lost my clicky Ti. Scoured the house and the truck. I never lose lights!
> I rather enjoyed that light. ...sigh



The HORROR! Hope you find it man, that is a terrible thing. I feel your pain brotha!


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

I was quite enjoying my D25C Ti neutral white, so I just ordered the D25A Ti cool white to replace my Fenix E11 as EDC. I found that I considered the D25C "too precious" to EDC, so once I have two titanium lights this will no longer be a concern ^^
I also ordered a few L91 AA lithium primaries, I wonder how those will hold up. Not so much an issue in the summer, but when we'll get freezing temperatures again, I wonder how much better than AA's those will hold up.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

TweakMDS, where are you located at, NL? I know a very good EU dealer with global free shipping on ET lights. Didnt know him before. So i went ahead and while still waiting for the Ti Clicky from iG (Tod's been great at communicating with me, very helpful) i went ahead and ordered and got already the D25LC2 Clicky. Man, those Eagletac D-series lights rock!! It's now my favorite 1x18650 light 
:rock:

rdrfronty, fantastic data, thanks so much for the table. Very interesting. I am sure my new D25LC2 beats your two D25C's in brightness  

beach honda, oh man.. :mecry:I feel with you!! Sorry to hear. what else can i say.. I think you were the first here to get it, and now you're the first to lose it. Good luck with the continued search!! Solid titanium things cant just disappear. It's not like water (evaporate) or smoke (particle) or gas (diffuse).. so you are going to find it, fingers crossed!! Please report back or what your plans would be, thanks!


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Netherlands indeed. I ordered mine from nkon.nl, which is a university student who just does an amazing job in buying great batteries and ET + Fenix lights in bulk. 

My previous light was also from illuminationgear though, since "my guy" didn't have the D25C Ti neutral anymore. However, there's also something about that cool white 
If you want to suggest me any other EU dealers with free shipping though, that's always very much appreciated! (Via PM if forum rules don't permit it).

I'd probably love the 18650 lights as well, but I'm not so hot on changing batteries. I like the CR123's for lights that I very occasionally use, and single or double AA lights as "workhorse" lights.


----------



## fnj

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



TweakMDS said:


> I also ordered a few L91 AA lithium primaries, I wonder how those will hold up. Not so much an issue in the summer, but when we'll get freezing temperatures again, I wonder how much better than AA's those will hold up.



This http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/l91.pdf gives an indication of low temperature performance. It only gives data for a single cold temperature point (exactly freezing), but it shows the L91 vastly better in comparison to alkaline, the more so at higher loads. At 1 watt constant discharge power, 0 degrees C, they are more than 10 times the life of alkaline.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



TweakMDS said:


> Netherlands indeed. I ordered mine from


Wow nice seller!! I will check his website out, thanks for the tip!
I am realizing that there are many many Eagtac sellers in my country, some of whom do FREE shipping with orders above 50+ or something.

I know where Netherlands is!!


----------



## Adobo

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Anyone here tried the D25A Neutral with 14500's? Whats the output lumens?


----------



## Espionage Studio

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Adobo, I have the D25A in neutral, and use a 14500. Bright as could be! Love it on that battery although the low gets a bit too bright IMHO. It gets hot though if you run it for 1 minute on Hi. Too hot but great for short bursts.


----------



## Be First

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

OK! After way too much thought and research, I finally ordered the D25C Ti in neutral. It'll be my first Ti light - time to see what all the fuss is about. I'm pumped!


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



fnj said:


> This http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/l91.pdf gives an indication of low temperature performance. It only gives data for a single cold temperature point (exactly freezing), but it shows the L91 vastly better in comparison to alkaline, the more so at higher loads. At 1 watt constant discharge power, 0 degrees C, they are more than 10 times the life of alkaline.



That's what I read also, they look like great batteries and indeed more than double the runtime on average, and just keep going in the cold. Alkaline and NiMH simply don't wanna work in the cold, but you also have to remember to keep the light close on your body. I keep my camera batteries in my pants pockets in the winter.



Be First said:


> OK! After way too much thought and research, I finally ordered the D25C Ti in neutral. It'll be my first Ti light - time to see what all the fuss is about. I'm pumped!



Good choice. I have the same one and it's great; it invoked a "holy poop" from my girlfriend when I used it in the backyard for the first time when something scared our kitty ^^
Then I liked it so much, the D25A cool white will be in tomorrow


----------



## gunga

I just my a and c. I like the level separation on AA, not so sure on cr123 or 16340. Gotta wait till dark to test.


----------



## Espionage Studio

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



Be First said:


> OK! After way too much thought and research, I finally ordered the D25C Ti in neutral. It'll be my first Ti light - time to see what all the fuss is about. I'm pumped!



I think you will love it! I have both, I edc the AA version but behold the D25C as a work of art (use it as a bedside grab in the middle of the night light). That is all with just a primary, I haven't even tried a rcr li-ion yet  The design, the output -all incredible. I find it definitely something that is worth the $


----------



## Be First

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



EspionageStudio said:


> I think you will love it! I have both, I edc the AA version but behold the D25C as a work of art (use it as a bedside grab in the middle of the night light). That is all with just a primary, I haven't even tried a rcr li-ion yet  The design, the output -all incredible. I find it definitely something that is worth the $





TweakMDS said:


> Good choice. I have the same one and it's great; it invoked a "holy poop" from my girlfriend when I used it in the backyard for the first time when something scared our kitty ^^
> Then I liked it so much, the D25A cool white will be in tomorrow



My neutral XM-L D25C Ti Clicky has landed, and...

...you guys were right - I do love it!

It's both smaller and brighter than I was expecting. It's basically the size of a 4Sevens mini 123 with a clicky tacked on the end - impressive for sure. I like the titanium a lot; it looks great now and I'm sure it will patina beautifully (that's the reason I was interested in the Ti in the first place. I love the lightness/smoothness/heat distribution/etc. that Al provides, but hate how it wears). I'm so excited - this is a light I'm going to use without worry.

The tint is really good! I was pretty nervous I'd lose the lottery and end up with a greenish disaster, but I lucked out. Haha, I definitely let out a big sigh of relief as soon as I fired it up. To my eyes, it seems to be on the warmer end of neutral, and that's exactly what I prefer. I've only tried primaries; I can't wait to see what happens with Li-ions.

It may not be my perfect light: it has the expectedly gritty Ti threads, it has a reverse clicky, the switch is on the tail (I prefer a side switch), it doesn't have 10,000 lumens, and it can't turn me into Thor. But, wow, this really is a wonderful light!

Worth the money indeed! :twothumbs


----------



## Espionage Studio

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Be First, I LOVE my D25C. I think the tint is gorgeous! It is a beast on a primary, I can't imagine how good it would be on a li-ion. I got a couple Eagletacs coming in the mail (Ultrafire I have is too long to get it to Turbo mode). Lets hope Shelm gets his someday, poor guy. Welcome to the club ;-)


----------



## bansuri

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Got my D25A a couple days ago, fantastic light. AA format is back!
Love the levels and options, great clip, size is perfect, switch is loud but is offset by the GITD button that holds it's glow for _reeeaalllyy long..._


----------



## gunga

Yep, love the AA. Sold my cr123 model. Couldn't stand the lack of a real medium mode.


----------



## TweakMDS

gunga said:


> Yep, love the AA. Sold my cr123 model. Couldn't stand the lack of a real medium mode.



What did you find missing in the medium end? I have mine in the moonlight mode and the second mode on that seems like a great medium (around 20-25 lumens)...


----------



## gunga

Mine went from moonlight to like 80 lumens, next mode was perhaps 180. Couldn't tell the difference between the 2 modes. This is with fresh Surefire cr123.


----------



## TweakMDS

Are you sure you had it on moonlight? By default the low is like 3 lumens and the medium like 65 lumens. If you turn it on loosened and tighten + loosen 3 times quickly it goes into moonlight as low, and the medium also drops substantially. Could be an error on it though, I'll doublecheck mine, but iirc, the medium was pretty much the same on my D25A and D25C clicky Ti's.


----------



## biglights

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



bansuri said:


> Got my D25A a couple days ago, fantastic light. AA format is back!
> Love the levels and options, great clip, size is perfect, switch is loud but is offset by the GITD button that holds it's glow for _reeeaalllyy long..._



Yes very nice light indeed!! I love the GITD, easy to find. One of my favorite little lights for around the house.


----------



## gunga

TweakMDS said:


> Are you sure you had it on moonlight? By default the low is like 3 lumens and the medium like 65 lumens. If you turn it on loosened and tighten + loosen 3 times quickly it goes into moonlight as low, and the medium also drops substantially. Could be an error on it though, I'll doublecheck mine, but iirc, the medium was pretty much the same on my D25A and D25C clicky Ti's.



Yep, it was moonlight. I am aware of the mode changes. Maybe I had sample with a lousy circuit? I really wanted to like it, but I am not cool with the mode separation. I saw another post on it too, so maybe there is an inconsistency with the circuits? Probably related to vF of the LED? My AA is fine on AA, have not tested on 14500 yet.


----------



## gunga

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*



GordoJones88 said:


> Are the Lo -> Med -> Hi modes distinct from one another with a 16340?
> 
> Nobody here has tested the D25C Titanium with an AW ICR/IMR 16340 ?
> to see if it goes Direct Drive and unfortunately makes Med, Hi, Turbo all the same brightness 750 lumens?
> 
> I can easily fit an AW ICR Protected 16340 or an AW IMR 16340 in my D25C aluminum.
> 
> The aluminum D25C uses the A950RC circuit,
> and the titanium D25C uses the A950RC II circuit.




Yes, mine was a bit like this, no real medium mode, hence why I sold my D25C. The D25A was great though.


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky*

Interesting, I haven't noticed that behavior on mine, but to be honest, I've pretty much only used it on moonlight and high. I don't have a way to measure lumens, but I do have a Sekonic lightmeter that will do a very good job at establishing the differences between modes. Will give that a go soon and post back here.


----------



## shelm

gunga said:


> Probably related to vF of the LED? My AA is fine on AA, have not tested on 14500 yet.


There is a very recent youtube video by goinggear Marshall who demonstrates the D-series Clickies with standard cells (CR123, Eneloop, 18650) and li-ion cells (RCR123, 14500). The D25C on RCR123 seems brighter than the D25A on 14500 in that video.

vF? i dont understand. 
now you made me feel like a noob.


----------



## beach honda

Because I so enjoyed my D25C Ti Neutral XML Clicky that I lost, I was finally able to raise enough funds and order a replacement by selling spare parts that I and other members had lying around.

Hooray CPF and it's awesome generous members.

Shelm, what's the ETA on yours.

Will update with more pictures when it arrives...again.


----------



## shelm

beach honda said:


> what's the ETA on yours.


LOL it's pathetic isnt it .. i was one of the first to pre-order it (around 5-27), it was dispatched by 6-15, and there is still no arrival (today's 7-15). Am glad that you liked it so much that you ordered another copy! Dealers have the NW's back in stock (D25A, D25C). I wouldnt mind buying the D25C for its mode memory and nice brightness .. but CR123A's are really not my type of beer (rechargeable 3.0V and rechargeable 3.7V "123"-sized cells exist on ebay, from China/Hongkong but .. how much fun is that if my expensive  Eneloops never get some use lol?)

Of course i will update too!


----------



## TweakMDS

Wow, someone is taking their sweet time getting it to you... I'm nearing the 3rd D25 Ti 

To come back to an earlier topic: Contrary to my previous thoughts, my D25C also "lacks" the middle mode, it looks more like moonlight, high, higher ^^ Not really missing it though, and a quick triple twist to turn off the moonlight mode is always an option. Then you get back to 3 lumens as low, which is a nice level to use as medium.


----------



## Espionage Studio

My D25A on a Li-ion still has a low, gunga among others I have heard complain about losing the low but mine works and I am happy about it. Anyone else try it? I've been running a couple Trustfire protected AA on a rotation in my everyday, works great! Now the bad news, I ordered a couple Eagletac 16340 batteries for my D25C and they don't fit! I can cram one in there and it is super tight, but then the light didn't turn on so I got scared and pulled the battery out/went back to using primary cell.


----------



## Kilovolt

I have a pair of EagleTac 16340 myself and they both fit normally into my D25C Ti clicky as well as in all my other lights.


----------



## gunga

Espionage Studio said:


> My D25A on a Li-ion still has a low, gunga among others I have heard complain about losing the low but mine works and I am happy about it. Anyone else try it? I've been running a couple Trustfire protected AA on a rotation in my everyday, works great! Now the bad news, I ordered a couple Eagletac 16340 batteries for my D25C and they don't fit! I can cram one in there and it is super tight, but then the light didn't turn on so I got scared and pulled the battery out/went back to using primary cell.



Yes, low/moonlight is retained, but what are your modes after that? DO you have a medium mode? Or ist more like 100 lumen medium mode?


----------



## shelm

Btw guys, here some brain food:



*Olight *TC10/TC15 Ti is made of Titanium Alloy. It is manufactured in Olight factories. 
Olight M20 Warrior Ti is made of Titanium Alloy. It looks similar to EagleTac T20C2. It is manufactured in Olight factories. 
Olight T-series looks similar to 4Sevens Quarks. 
*iTP* A3 EOS Ti is made of Titanium Alloy. iTP is a brand of Olight. It is manufactured in Olight factories. 
*4Sevens *Quark Titanium is made of Titanium Alloy. Foursevens lights are manufactured in Olight factories. 
*Shiningbeam *flashlights are not made of Titanium Alloy. They look _extremely _similar to Foursevens Quark, both Regular and Turbo series. Shiningbeam is or is not manufactured in Olight factories (and who cares if it is). 
*EagleTac *aluminum D-series is not made of Titanium Alloy. It has similar looks&feel to Foursevens Quarks imho _---i own the D25LC2 Clicky so i could tell---_ and the similarities even begin with the retail packaging, same 10 yrs performance guarantee, the machining(!!), are you kidding me. It is or is not manufactured in Olight factories (and who cares if it is). 
EagleTac D25 Ti is made of Titanium Alloy _---i am still waiting for my copy---_. To recap, the D-series are similar to Quarks, and the Quarks were produced in Titanium Alloy Limited Edition too. And as mentioned, both Quarks and Quark Ti's are Olight factories' produce! And the EagleTac T20C2 looks so similar to Olight Warrior/Crimson of the Olight M-series which are Olight factories' produce, too, obviously. In the early years 4Sevens website, back then the largest importer and distributor of China-made Cree LED flashlights, was selling Fenix, Olight and EagleTac, so they all share *common personal and business history* together. *Altogether*. And think about it, in your opinion, *how many* flashlight factories in Shenzhen would be able to pull such a stunt where their output (Shiningbeam, EagleTac, incl. Titanium) shares so many similarities of another Shenzhen flashlight factory (Olight, iTP, Foursevens, incl. Titanium's)? None, one, two, or three factories? And *what would be the realistic and plausible guess* in this case, huh?




 
What am i trying to insinuate with the above? Nothing. you make up your own mind. But there are intelligent websites on the WWW which believe that man never left the moon buggy on the moon's soil during their visit in 1969, and i _am _saying that i wouldnt wonder if EagleTac came up with a Titanium Alloy limited edition of their T20C2 lol. I am sure that they wont (because the market doesnt need or want a tactical Titanium light imo) but that's not the point of this cpf post

​


----------



## Espionage Studio

gunga said:


> Yes, low/moonlight is retained, but what are your modes after that? DO you have a medium mode? Or ist more like 100 lumen medium mode?




I see what you mean, yeah there is a low and super high only. I was mistaken thinking people were not getting any low at all. On Li-ion mine is low and high, then if i twist the head tight its the same high and strobe. Thought maybe I had a special one for a minute there


----------



## tjswarbrick

BH - sorry your lost one didn't turn up.
Shelm - has yours been delivered yet?
ES- thanks for the awesome shots and info.

I can't believe I almost missed out!
A P20C2MKII was one of my first light purchases, and it has been solid as a rock.
When the D25's came out, I thought "too bad they're not clicky." When they came out in Ti, I was tempted - but then I saw the Clickies "coming soon." And I no longer do cool white.
Clickies arrived, and I couldn't decide on an emitter (neutral flooder or mini-thrower), and thought "wouldn't it be nice if they were Ti."
Then I ordered an HDS and kinda forgot about the ET D25's.
I'm still waiting on my Hi-CRI EDC.
Just checked all my usual suspects for a neutral, titanium, clicky D25C. None had neutral, and most had no D25's. So bummed. 
Tried LJ, and it said they had some.
My first Ti light is on it's way!!!


----------



## beach honda

Hooray Ti! Let us know how you like it!


----------



## shelm

( deleted )


----------



## bushmattster

Just received my D25a cl. Ti. I really like the looks of this light but very disappointed in the moonlight mode. I would say (WAG) that it was closer to 3 or 4 lumens instead of the listed .5. Not that big of a deal and this will be my new EDC light. Got one for my wife and it is the same way. Both lights have nice beam color. Mine has more flood and hers has a little more throw. All in all, a great little light. Oh, and we like the glow in the dark clicky alot.


----------



## bansuri

Bushmattster,
Gotta ask, did you do the 3x twist to activate the moonlight mode?
Still lovin mine. Very unobtrusive in the pocket, clip makes it easy to tell which end's which. Nothing worse than thumbing the lens.
Like how you can switch from MED to LOW with a longer than normal press.
Great battery life so far.


----------



## beach honda

I pmed him the same question about the 3x twist. It makes a big difference!


----------



## bushmattster

Damn I'm dumb. Thanks guys


----------



## tjswarbrick

Just got my neutral TI clicky D25C.
Very nice.
One of my smaller lights. Easy to activate, but can hide the whole thing in my fist. Quite a bit smaller than the Groovy!, but feels slightly heavier. (I lack a scale for such things.)
I which I could swap the groups - I rarely need Turbo on a single CR123-type, but don't like to leave it loose. I guess that's what my Tactical Quark is for.
When I first opened it, I thought the threads were remarkably smooth. Upon dropping in a battery and putting it back together, I no longer think so - but it's not bad.
I'll drop some Nyogel on there later.

My clip is perfectly straight, and the body is just gorgeous.

4300k Neutral tint is just what the dr ordered.

I haven't tested it head-to-head against the Quark yet, but Moonlight is so dim I can stare at the LED without pain and see the lines on the emitter.
I like the press-n-hold to drop from med to low - thanks for that tip!

Pretty much it's everything I expected - a great little light.
Now I just need to figure out what knife to pair with it...


----------



## shelm

bansuri said:


> Like how you can switch from MED to LOW with a longer than normal press.


you know that you can do it with _any _Reverse Clicky on a light with no mode memory, dont you 
a longer press is like switching the light off, waiting for (at least) 2 secs, and switching the light back on. since the light has no mode memory, it will begin with Lo again. :nana:


----------



## bansuri

shelm said:


> you know that you can do it with _any _Reverse Clicky on a light with no mode memory, dont you
> a longer press is like switching the light off, waiting for (at least) 2 secs, and switching the light back on. since the light has no mode memory, it will begin with Lo again. :nana:



Yes.


----------



## shelm

bushmattster said:


> Mine has more flood and hers has a little more throw.



Have you both got the identical model or why is there a difference in beam and throw?
i am confused


----------



## Jimbo75

shelm said:


> Have you both got the identical model or why is there a difference in beam and throw?
> i am confused



I also noticed this difference between my AL and Ti clickys, both with neutral xml. Quite strange, I was expecting them to be the same but like their tints they were quite different....


----------



## cave dave

shelm said:


> you know that you can do it with _any _Reverse Clicky on a light with no mode memory, dont you
> a longer press is like switching the light off, waiting for (at least) 2 secs, and switching the light back on. since the light has no mode memory, it will begin with Lo again. :nana:



Well, yes and no. On my quarks I would have to hold the button in for 7-11 seconds depending on model and battery I'm using. With the D25A the delay seems to be about 0.5 seconds. Just a slight delay in the release will revert back to low and that is a super nice feature. Both lights are supposed to be 2 second delay timing but neither one is. I like the 0.5 second delay on my Eagletac. 
:thumbsup:


----------



## bushmattster

shelm said:


> Have you both got the identical model or why is there a difference in beam and throw?
> i am confused



Hi shelm,
Yes we both have the same model (D25A Clicky Titanium cool white). Beam color are the same (similar to my 4sevens AA2, both are better than my Fenix which is pretty good) but my wifes beam is not as floody as mine (tighter maybe?), it shows up on the moonlight and low mode the most. The high and turbo shows no difference that we can detect. I'm a bit of a newbie and haven't developed the vocabulary to describe this properly. The difference in throw is negligible. We were looking at the beam from about ten feet away. 

Don't get me wrong, we are extremely happy with these lights. I actually like my beam better than hers. She could care less, to her it's prettier than our black aluminums and that's good enough! This has become my favorite light overnight.


----------



## bushmattster

tjswarbrick said:


> Just got my neutral TI clicky D25C.
> Pretty much it's everything I expected - a great little light.
> Now I just need to figure out what knife to pair with it...



I'm using my Spyderco Rookie G10. Sorry I don't have a pick. Weight with Eneloop (D25A) is 2 ounces on my digital scale.


----------



## tjswarbrick

bushmattster said:


> I'm using my Spyderco Rookie G10. Sorry I don't have a pick. Weight with Eneloop (D25A) is 2 ounces on my digital scale.



Thanks Bush.
Rookie looks like a nice setup - I'll probably do my Sage1. CF and Ti. Both: perfect carry size, user-friendly, tough, light, and still a little fancy.


----------



## Photon

bushmattster said:


> Just received my D25a cl. Ti. I really like the looks of this light but very disappointed in the moonlight mode. I would say (WAG) that it was closer to 3 or 4 lumens instead of the listed .5





bansuri said:


> Gotta ask, did you do the 3x twist to activate the moonlight mode?





beach honda said:


> I pmed him the same question about the 3x twist. It makes a big difference!





bushmattster said:


> Damn I'm dumb. Thanks guys.



This is my only objection to this really fine light. I'm sure it has confused others.




Code:


Moonlight Mode (on):  Moon -> Low -> Med
Moonlight Mode (off):         Low -> Med -> High

Why not:              Moon -> Low -> Med -> High


Sometimes I think manufacturers feel obligated to differentiate their product from the competition. Understandable, but in doing so they really turkey it up.


----------



## GordoJones88

Photon said:


> Code:
> 
> 
> Moonlight Mode (on):  Moon -> Low -> Med
> Moonlight Mode (off):         Low -> Med -> High


 

I'm sure you meant:

Moonlight Mode (on): Moon -> Med -> Hi
Moonlight Mode (off): Low -> Med -> Hi


----------



## shelm

GordoJones88 said:


> I'm sure you meant:
> 
> Moonlight Mode (on): Moon -> Med -> Hi
> Moonlight Mode (off): Low -> Med -> Hi


i dont have any working D25A Clicky Ti to comment on the quote. Just for comparison purposes, on my D25LC2 Clicky it is:


shelm's D25LC2 Clicky said:


> Moonlight Mode (on): Low**-> Med -> Hi
> Moonlight Mode (off): Low -> Med -> Hi
> 
> **: neither Low is to be called "Moonlight" on this model. Too bright to be called that way. This is valid for the D25LC2 Clicky, and not for the D25A/D25C/etc models


----------



## TweakMDS

Afaik, the moonlight mode doesn't change the medium to low, but it is lower than the usual medium. Exact numbers have been posted somewhere early in this thread or in the review.

Specs on the ET website for the D25A Ti clicky list it like this:


With moon-mode setting disabled, lowest output will increase by about 6 times, to 4 lumen, and the second lowest output will double, to around 20 lumen 
With the listed number of 1 for moonlight and 10 for "medium", which isn't exactly correct but close enough... Mind that they're listing LED lumens here, not OTF

According to eagletac, with some of my common sense sprinkled over it, it's this (in OTF/ANSI lumens):

*With moonlight mode off: *
Low = 2 - 3, medium = 16, high = 75

*With moonlight mode on:
*Low = 0.5, medium = 8, high = 75


----------



## shelm

TweakMDS said:


> or in the review.



too bad that selfbuilt couldnt measure actual OTF output of the D25A Clicky (Aluminum or Ti). He had flashlight samples of the other D25 Clicky models but not of the 1xAA/14500 model.


----------



## reppans

TweakMDS said:


> According to eagletac, with some of my common sense sprinkled over it, it's this (in OTF/ANSI lumens):
> 
> *With moonlight mode off: *
> Low = 2 - 3, medium = 16, high = 75
> 
> *With moonlight mode on:
> *Low = 0.5, medium = 8, high = 75



I've been following this thread for the D25A Ti, there's so much I really like about it:

-Tiny
-Ti at reasonable price
-Great clip
-Buried Disco modes
-Sublumen mode
-Long warranty
-Long press back to low

But two important things (for me) are holding me back:

- Not full Li-ion support (loosing some modes)
- The 75 lumen high being so close to 122 turbo, seems like it's a barely discernible increase to me, not to mention creating kinda big gaps between the L/M/H modes.

I could pass on the Li-ion support (they're a PITA anyway), but I'm kinda stuck on the mode spacing. As it stands, I think my two most often used modes are moonlight and 3 lumens between my Quark and Zebralight.


----------



## TweakMDS

reppans said:


> - The 75 lumen high being so close to 122 turbo, seems like it's a barely discernible increase to me, not to mention creating kinda big gaps between the L/M/H modes.
> 
> I could pass on the Li-ion support (they're a PITA anyway), but I'm kinda stuck on the mode spacing. As it stands, I think my two most often used modes are moonlight and 3 lumens between my Quark and Zebralight.



For me, the high at 75 lm is a non-issue, if I want to use the highest possible output, I just tighten the head and it goes to turbo from any mode. If I want to use moonlight or medium which are both perfectly spaced with the moonlight setting on in my opinion, I use the loosened state.
Consider the high as a secondary highest mode that you can't really tell from turbo, except that the runtime is almost doubled.

I really like the D25A's and now own both the Ti in XM-L U2 and the regular in XP-G S2 (as well as a neutral D25C Ti). Both perform extremely well and rotate in EDC. The XM-L performs a bit better in narrow forest paths on low, and the XP-G is nice to check out the backyard and shine under the couch or below the desk when looking for stuff.... Although to be honest, they're pretty much interchangeable in functionality.


----------



## shelm

TweakMDS said:


> I really like the D25A's and now own both the Ti in XM-L U2 and the regular in XP-G S2 (as well as a neutral D25C Ti).



How could the tint(s) be described? And given the small reflector, how bad are the artifacts on your sample (and the 100% perfect centricity of the LED's)?


----------



## reppans

TweakMDS said:


> .. If I want to use moonlight or medium which are both perfectly spaced with the moonlight setting on in my opinion, I use the loosened state.
> Consider the high as a secondary highest mode that you can't really tell from turbo, except that the runtime is almost doubled.



That's good way to look at it actually.... kinda like Quark Tactical with an extra mode or two readily accessible. Or put another way, an even split between Quark Regular and Tactical lights.

OK, so anywhere have them in stock? Or is this limited addition already sold out (my vendor of choice is out of them - Goinggear).


----------



## TweakMDS

shelm said:


> How could the tint(s) be described? And given the small reflector, how bad are the artifacts on your sample (and the 100% perfect centricity of the LED's)?



Both my A's are cool white. The XM-L barely has a hotspot and is very floody. The XP-G is perfectly round and has a nice set beam, but not too throwy. About the same as the Fenix E11 but with a more distinguished hotspot. 
I still owe you some beamshots and color measurements, so hoping to get some time for those this weekend 
I don't have a color meter though, but a graycard and my DSLR raw processing software should do.



reppans said:


> That's good way to look at it actually.... kinda like Quark Tactical with an extra mode or two readily accessible. Or put another way, an even split between Quark Regular and Tactical lights.
> 
> OK, so anywhere have them in stock? Or is this limited addition already sold out (my vendor of choice is out of them - Goinggear).



I don't know any US dealers unfortunately, but apparently there's still some new stock planned to go to distributors within the next few weeks, so I wouldn't worry about them completely running out.


----------



## bushmattster

I don't even use the high mode. I like the extra runtime of the medium mode since there isn't that much of a difference.

reppans: pm coming


----------



## Photon

reppans said:


> [...]
> The 75 lumen high being so close to 122 turbo, seems like it's a barely discernible increase to me, not to mention creating kinda big gaps between the L/M/H modes.



You're right about the high being close to the turbo.

But the apparent big gaps between L/M/H are actually good. The perception of the eye is not linear. Twice as many lumens does not appear to be twice the light. The spacing as provided appears just right in actual use.


----------



## bushmattster

Photon said:


> But the apparent big gaps between L/M/H are actually good. The perception of the eye is not linear. Twice as many lumens does not appear to be twice the light. The spacing as provided appears just right in actual use.



+1 on the gaps between L/M/H. They're just right.

edited to say: I misspoke, the gaps between moon/L/M are just right. The high is too low for me.


----------



## reppans

Photon said:


> But the apparent big gaps between L/M/H are actually good. The perception of the eye is not linear. Twice as many lumens does not appear to be twice the light. The spacing as provided appears just right in actual use.



Yeah I know the square/square root thing (4x lumens is perceived as 2x brightness).

I guess I really like my Quark's spacing which is pretty close to 4x-10x mode spacing - 4x at the higher lumen end, 10x at the low lumen end.

0.3 > 3 > 24 > 115 > 280 with 0.3 and 3 as my most often used. I even think the 115 > 280 step is not significant enough.

Oh well, I'm happy to try something different.


----------



## Photon

Photon said:


> Code:
> 
> 
> Moonlight Mode (on):  Moon -> Low -> Med
> Moonlight Mode (off):         Low -> Med -> High
> 
> Why not:              Moon -> Low -> Med -> High





GordoJones88 said:


> I'm sure you meant:
> 
> Moonlight Mode (on): Moon -> Med -> Hi
> Moonlight Mode (off): Low -> Med -> Hi



From EagleTac's website: link





I only included the initial modes when the light is first turned on, and omitted the repeated patterns and the special modes.

The only difference between moonlight on/off is that one level is omitted. Bogus if you ask me. But that is how they did it.

I set mine to moon mode on to have a nice low-low. If I want the highest output, I'll just twist the head.


----------



## Espionage Studio

Photon said:


> I set mine to moon mode on to have a nice low-low. If I want the highest output, I'll just twist the head.



Thats exactly how I have mine, I think it works quite well ;-)


----------



## bushmattster

I had trouble with my Ti model and a member asked me to describe the problem in this thread. After four days of working fine the light became stuck in what I assume to be high mode. I tried new batteries and cleaning the threads and contacts as suggested in the forums, but after two days I still couldn't change the modes. I've read other posts of people having a similar problem with the D25A series. The seller is sending me a replacement as soon as he receives the original. I mailed it this morning. I'm sure the second one will be fine. I love this light in every way except the spacing of the high mode. The size, looks, clip, beam and spacing of moon/low/med are great. The glow in the dark clicky is also very handy. I would like to see this feature on other non tactical lights.


----------



## shelm

bushmattster said:


> became stuck in what I assume to be high mode. I tried



"high mode"? you mean "head tightened" mode? Please could you describe in detail?  Were you able to produce LO, MED, HI, or THE BLINKIES, i.e. the regular modes of the "head loosened mode"?

What happened when you loosened the head and clicked the switch... which modes did you get?


----------



## bushmattster

Yes I mean head tight mode. When I loosened the head I still had the same single output(high?) and could not access any other modes. Med and high are so close that I'm not for sure which one it is.


----------



## shelm

naming the modes,
head tightened has: TURBO - STROBE
head loosened has: LO - MED - HIGH - BLINKIES

Were you able to produce STROBE? If yes, then your "high" mode was TURBO, and not HIGH or MED.


----------



## bushmattster

Yes I was able to produce strobe. I guess it is turbo. If moon is .5, low is 8, med is 75, high is 122, what lumen is turbo?


----------



## shelm

bushmattster said:


> Yes I was able to produce strobe. I guess it is turbo.



I know at least 2 other persons who had the same/similar problem.
Blackbeard is 1 of them. He reported being stuck at TURBO - STROBE on his D25C2 (aluminum, not Ti) too. So his problem is similar to yours.

The other 1 person had exactly the same problem as yours: being stuck at TURBO - STROBE on his/her D25A Clicky Ti. I wont name that dude/girl, though. Sorry 

Lumens on Turbo (and on Turbo after the downstep) .. i dunno. I think someone had posted some own measurements in this thread!


----------



## bushmattster

shelm said:


> Lumens on Turbo (and on Turbo after the downstep) .. i dunno. I think someone had posted some own measurements in this thread!



Thanks, I'll try to find that post. Any idea what could cause this problem?


----------



## shelm

I would have no idea what could cause this problem. To me, it is simply a defective light. And within the 10 years performance guarantee (warranty), the dealer or manufacturer should be able to take full responsibility for satisfactory help when this problem occurs and remains like that.



bushmattster said:


> Thanks, I'll try to find that post.



Thanks to *cave dave* for the nice measurements for the NeutralWhite XML!!



cave dave said:


> Ok as far as I can tell the lumen outputs as speced by Eagletac make no sense and are noticeably off.
> 
> For the EagleTac D25A Clicky Ti here is what is on their site:
> *1/10/107/176 LED lumen* (for XM-L U2)
> 
> The issue with this is that there aren't 4 levels, there are two groups of three levels plus a Turbo mode. The moonlight group dims the output range for both low and med.
> 
> I have the Ti D25A clicky XM-L T6 N.W. LED which in theory would be 7% lower than the XML U2 cool.
> 
> Using other known lights as a reference I get very approximate lumen values using a ceiling bounce method.
> 
> *Approx lumen values for Ti D25A XM-L T6 N.W. LED*
> Stock Group 1:
> Low: ~ 5 lm
> Med: ~ 20 lm
> High: ~ 100 lm
> Turbo: ~ 145 lm
> High after Turbo for 90sec: Did not measure
> 
> Moonlight group 2:
> Low/Moonlight: ~0.2 lm (PWM like effect is only noticeable in this mode)
> Med: ~13 lm
> High: : ~ 100 lm
> Turbo: ~ 145 lm
> High after Turbo for 90sec: : Did not measure
> 
> ~ Note: my XML in the Ti light on turbo is a tad dimmer overall than my XP-G R4 neutral Al version. The XML also has much less throw, but has a brighter spill area, and is not as neutral white (it's yellower). So much for the "premium" XML LED. I prefer the XPG R4 neutral. It's too bad the XP-G neutral isn't avail in Titanium.


----------



## bushmattster

That makes more sense than the Etac instructions. Thanks shelm and cave dave.


----------



## biglights

My Ti has been acting up lately. It does not always turn on with the first click and sometimes when it does the light flickers a lot. I have to tighten the head to go into turbo so it stops. Any ideas?


----------



## gunga

Clean the threads. Inside and out.


----------



## tjswarbrick

Is mine acting up, or have I put it into "moonlight memory" mode?
I set it to moonlight, and put it away.
Next day, I turn it on moonlight, and tap once for med-low. Great.
I light-press and hold for 3-15 seconds, let go - it's still in med-low. Tap, get hi, tap, and go through all the blinkies before it ever gets back to moonlight. 
It doesn't go twice around before the blinky modes.

After I get it set to moonlight, I'll turn it off for a bit. Turn it on, still in moon - whew! But if I need to bump it up, I still need to go all the way around before moon will come back. Turning it off doesn't do the trick.

Turbo still works fine, so I can still use the light - but I'd really like to be able to keep it in Moonlight, tap it for med-low burst, then either press-and-hold to step back down, or twist to go Turbo (depending on is med-low was enough or not.)
It worked the first night - before a bunch of head-twists to attempt memory mode and moonlight-off. How do I get it back?
Thanks!

- Tom

Turns out I had put it into Memory mode. Found an online instruction, triple twisted back, and viola - defaults to Moonlight again.
Really loving this little light.
Took it on vacation. A week of all night moonlight night light, along with several episodes of lighting stuff up, drained the (primary) battery to where only moonlight and low would work once I got home. Who could (realistically) ask for more?
Daughter dropped it on the asphalt - minor notch in the bezel. I wasn't going to worry about it, but my thumb would catch on the burr. A few passes on 200, 400, 800, and 1500 sandpaper-on-mousepad has it good as new (possibly better.)
A month of EDC with keys and such has given the finish a nice lived-in look.
The beam is just about perfect for EDC, and it goes past plenty-bright on Turbo.


----------



## biglights

gunga said:


> Clean the threads. Inside and out.



Still doing it. Could it be an issue with the head. I thought I read that some were having issues with some of the E.T.'s


----------



## biglights

It only turns on about half the time also. Have to click it twice to turn it on a lot. When I turn it on in turbo it flickers a lot of the times..


----------



## GordoJones88

biglights said:


> My Ti has been acting up lately. Any ideas?


 

Yes. It's not the head. It's the tail end. But don't take it apart.
I finally fixed this problem when I put the clip exactly in between the 2 Eagtac logos.
Haven't had the problem since.


----------



## reppans

Got my D25A Ti Clicky in Neutral White and have been using it for a few days. I'm a huge fan of single cell AAs with moonlight and long runtimes, and so couldn't resist is puppy. I also have a ZL H51w, several Quarks AAXs in different flavors, and a Quark Mini AA Ti. 

I'll start off by saying that, so far, nothing beats the versatility of the QAAX for me. From a super long running moonlight mode to the 280 lumen max; fully current regulation; 100% operational on a 14500, great mode spacing; lego-able bodies for different batt configs, and excellent warranty and customer service. 

Having said that, I'm really enjoying this D25A and it has definitely earned a place in my EDC rotation. Here my Cheers and Jeers:

Cheers:
- $63 for Ti? What a deal, I'll buy more.
- Best looking light out my bunch, it's not even close. Really nice McGizmo style clip.
- Small, tiny, disappears. Hard to click with my fat thumb, but that's a quality problem.
- 10 yr warranty, impressive, although 4/7s customer service is hard to beat.
- UI is very nice, it's a great mix of a Quark regular, tactical and mini. Tons of modes, yet most are buried to avoid mode overload. Love the instant reset to low and now can't figure out why Quarks have a 3 second reset. Super easy and quick to reprogram, unlike the Quark tacticals. Mode spacing feels right with moonlight on. With moonlight off, low and med feel a bit too close.
- NW is significantly warmer than my ZL w or Quark NW... most pleasing of the bunch to my eyes.
- flashing mode and lower/slower flashing mode.... finally a subtle disco mode (that says "warning or careful" as opposed to "HELP! POLICE!) I can use as pedestrian, bicyclist, or broken down motorist.

Jeers:
- O-rings terrible, super thin. Quark mini is the same diameter and has more substantial O-rings, gotta be carefully and watch for pinching/bunching with every battery swap.
- Assembly - meh... my tailcap has a seriously pinched and bound O-ring, you can see rubber in three different spots. Can't unscrew the tail cap to fix it either, feels epoxied.
- Direct drive on 14500s, becomes a 2 mode light.
- Heat it's about the same at 122 as my Quark at 280.
- Closeness of high and max.. a bit of a wasted mode slot, could have been put to better use.
- PWM on moonlight. This really bums me as the detailed specs of the D25A specifically states for the A400RC circuit, "constant current regulation (non-PWM) for all output modes."
- Moonlight is closer to 0.2 than 0.5. 150 hrs on moonlight is about right for 0.5 lm, but not 0.2, but PWM is not that efficient.

Overall, the cheers are more significant than the jeers for me... I love the light and it's a keeper.


----------



## biglights

GordoJones88 said:


> Yes. It's not the head. It's the tail end. But don't take it apart.
> I finally fixed this problem when I put the clip exactly in between the 2 Eagtac logos.
> Haven't had the problem since.



Lately it hasnt even turned on unless I click it a bunch of times. When I start it in turbo it turns on but flickers.


----------



## GordoJones88

biglights said:


> Lately it hasnt even turned on unless I click it a bunch of times. When I start it in turbo it turns on but flickers.



Because if the tail has been twisted out of position, it no longer makes a good connection. 
Hence putting pressure on the tail end to turn on, does force a good connection.
Try twisting the tail a bit until you find the right spot, I bet it will fix the problem.


----------



## shelm

GordoJones88, thanks for the interesting troubleshooting point. It is the first time in this thread that someone (you!) mentions the tail area as potential source of problems when the Ti Clicky acts up.



reppans said:


> - Assembly - meh... my tailcap has a seriously pinched and bound O-ring, you can see rubber in three different spots. Can't unscrew the tail cap to fix it either, feels epoxied.



You cant unscrew the tail cap for disassembly of the switch parts?
Too bad that ET doesnt include any Allen key to detach the pocket clip first. For sure the tail area is not glued or epoxied. As HighlanderNorth commented, the pocket clip exerts uneven pressure on the tail cap (male and female) threads so that it becomes harder to screw off the tail cap. It is still possible though .. but you may scratch the Titanium body by the rotating unscrew movement of the pocket clip end. So, if you dont want to risk scratches, you would have to detach the pocket clip first, and then, with some good manual force, unscrew the tail cap.

Your tail cap feels like epoxied *because* of the squeezed'n squished o-ring, which makes it even harder to twist the tail cap.

No, i dont have my working Clicky Ti yet. Still waiting for the shipment.


----------



## reppans

I did remove the clip before trying to unscrew the tailcap. Wrapped it in rubber to get a good grip too - couldn't get it to move. Stopped short of using pliers.


----------



## biglights

GordoJones88 said:


> Because if the tail has been twisted out of position, it no longer makes a good connection.
> Hence putting pressure on the tail end to turn on, does force a good connection.
> Try twisting the tail a bit until you find the right spot, I bet it will fix the problem.



Ok, I will try it out. Thanks!!


----------



## shelm

reppans said:


> Stopped short of using pliers.



okok, well done. Pliers with rubber could work .. but i would stop here too as you did. Sorry to hear! D*mn the o-rings!!


----------



## reppans

shelm said:


> Too bad that ET doesnt include any Allen key to detach the pocket clip first.



BTW, if anyone is interested, I think the Allen is a 1.5mm, pretty difficult to find, but a 1/16th SAE Allen works great. 1/16th is 1.5875mm so if it fits at all, it's even better.


----------



## cave dave

ET had a custom 1.55mm tool made to fit this clip. The typical tools available are undersized and slip. I had good luck using small Vise grips instead.


----------



## reppans

reppans said:


> Jeers:
> .....
> - PWM on moonlight. This really bums me as the detailed specs of the D25A specifically states for the A400RC circuit, "constant current regulation (non-PWM) for all output modes."
> - Moonlight is closer to 0.2 than 0.5. 150 hrs on moonlight is about right for 0.5 lm, but not 0.2, but PWM is not that efficient.



Just wanted to update on the PWM thing that Cave Dave and I have noticed (anyone else?). It appears that this light is current regulated on good batteries, but goes to PWM when the batts get lowish?

I check for PWM a few ways: by fanning fingers in front of the beam (you can see the strobe effect), by a close-up view/picture with a cellphone camera (you'll see vertical lines in the pix), and finally by light drawing on a time exposure photo (you get dots instead of lines). Well in all cases, I was getting typical PWM every way.... until I changed the battery, then all PWM symptoms disappeared. 

This was on an Eneloop that metered at 1.2V, which is low, but still seemed to power 
Turbo just fine. A 1.34V Eneloop was swapped in and all is fine and I could not detect PWM by any of the three methods above.

Very strange... I'll have see if my Quark behaves the same way.... I doubt it though.


----------



## ScaryFatKidGT

Ok well I think my post got erased

When will the Ti's get S2's?


----------



## shelm

ScaryFatKidGT said:


> When will the Ti's get S2's?



Hmm. Good question. The website states "Powerful ultra slim single AA flashlight. Great for daily users. Uses CREE XM-L U2, XP-G S2, or XM-L T6 N.W. LED." but i havent seen the Clicky Ti with a XP-G S2 emitter, for example on IlluminationGear website.

Why not take the S2 head of the Twisty Ti and use it with the Clicky Ti body?


----------



## Ualnosaj

You lose the Turbo "mode 2" then...



________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this message.


----------



## Croquette

Hi all, 

I own a D25c clicky ti and I had the same problem. The light turned on only in turbo/strobe mode, no more on the low/med/high etc...

I tought it was because of the new RCR123 but after o good cleaning of the thread, everything came back to normal.

Hope it will help.


----------



## reppans

reppans said:


> I check for PWM a few ways: by fanning fingers in front of the beam (you can see the strobe effect), by a close-up view/picture with a cellphone camera (you'll see vertical lines in the pix), and finally by light drawing on a time exposure photo (you get dots instead of lines). Well in all cases, I was getting typical PWM every way.... until I changed the battery, then all PWM symptoms disappeared.
> 
> Very strange... I'll have see if my Quark behaves the same way.... I doubt it though.



Pix of the PWM vs my Quark... on moonlight. This, the original, only mildly showed PWM at low voltages.







Picked up two more A clickies in NW, interestingly one was really bad with PWM at any voltage and the other only barely perceptible at very low voltage. More pinch O-rings and one was delivered without a lens! One I needed to force cut (cranking bezel hard - tight and loose a few dozen times) the last mm of thread because it wouldn't go into turbo easily. 

ET needs to upgrade its quality control.... or you get what you pay for. Still love the light though.


----------



## cyclesport

Disturbing to hear all these stories of QA problems with ET's D-Series clickys. Pinched O-rings, flakey driver electronics (intermitant no less, so you never know when it will quit working), and yikes...no lens? Seriously?! I really like the UI, broad voltage operating range, and output for the size of these lights. I feel somewhat lucky since I bought three versions of these upon their release and only had a flicker problem in a D25C that was quickly resolved. Makes me wonder how this series will be functioning a year or two from now?

Odd that there's such a varience among owners who have had no issues to those who seem to have a lot of problems, not only with the lights, but with ET's customer service as well? Was thinking about picking up another D25LC2 for a spare but am reconsidering this...


----------



## shelm

Afaik the D25C Clicky Ti is not produced anymore? (it is still available tho from lightjunction and illuminationgear)

Eagtac still produces D25A Clicky Ti with XML U2 CW and the new XP-G2 CW. 

Interesting..


----------



## ScaryFatKidGT

Can you get the XP-G2 anywhere? Are they making all of them in XP-G2 or just the Ti AA? I also really wanted any Ti model with any XP-G emitter, Eagletac's site listed them but I never saw anyone carry them.


----------



## shelm

the aluminum D-series, P20 and T20 will come out with *XP-G2*'s
the titanium D-series, i heard of the Clicky AA only, at this point in time.

The *XP-G S2* in the Ti's, e.g. D25A Mini Ti, is awesome. Tight hotspot, looks bright and has beautiful coolwhite tint. Not a bit greenish.


----------



## TweakMDS

My dealer told me the G2's would be available in a few weeks (since he just stocked before they came out). I'm trying to order a D25C in XP-G2 as well as an ET21 module for my P20A2.
No answer yet on whether or not they plan to also make new Ti's in XP-G2. I hope so 



> The *XP-G S2* in the Ti's, e.g. D25A Mini Ti, is awesome. Tight hotspot, looks bright and has beautiful coolwhite tint. Not a bit greenish.


I have a D25A clicky (regular) in XP-G S2 and it is indeed brilliant. Currently EDCing that 90% of the time.


----------



## Fireclaw18

Just got my D25a clicky Ti neutral T6.

Nice brushed titanium look. It's not mirror finish but still looks good. Like the aluminum versions, it does have some sharp edges. Most notably the cutout for a lanyard at the tailcap is very sharp. I can't help thinking that if a lanyard were actually used, it would get sliced off by the knife-like edges.

I tried the light on an AW IMR 14500. Very bright and gets high and low mode. Unfortunately, due to the small size of the head and titaniums poor thermal conductivity The head right next to the emitter got noticeably hot almost instantly. Even keeping my fingers over that portion of the light to try to wick off heat it got too hot to comfortably hold within 20 seconds. I think this is a light that should not be run on 14500s. If you want to run 14500s in your D25a, you should get the aluminum version.


----------



## shelm

I finally got hold of a nice _working _D25A *Clicky *Ti XM-L U2 unit. I am really surprised how bright this little thing is, and there is no major difference between Hi and Turbo. There might be a difference between this and the D25A *Mini *Ti XM-L U2 but that's how the Mini Ti U2 performs *on 1x Eneloop AA* compared to other new 2012 flashlight models:


modelspec'ed lumens / runtimemeasured max lumensmeasured runtime on Max modeEagletac D25A Clicky Ti XM-L U2122lm / 1.3h?1h35min..1h40minEagletac D25A Mini Ti XM-L U2125lm / 1.2h147lm2h16minNitecore Explorer EA1180lm / [email protected]134lm[email protected]Nitecore Multitask MT1A140lm / 1h30min108lm1h12minNitecore Sens AA120lm / 2h106lm1h39minBalder SE-1 XM-L T6325lm** / 1h**79lm1h1min
**: _if run on 1x 14500. No official specs exist for 1x Eneloop AA._

From the above table you can see that I measured between *1h35min..1h40min* on *Turbo* mode (Eneloop AA resting voltage after 2hrs: 1.15..1.19V), and between 2h5min...2h15min on Hi mode (1.17V). On Hi mode, it doesnt seem to matter if one is in the lower group (with the moonlight mode) or in the higher group (without moonlight): the average runtime on* Hi *is *~2h10min*. On Turbo-mode the D25A does a step-down after ~200secs, and there is no such a thing on Hi-mode.





Eagletac specs are: "_Runtime: 1.3/2.5/20/150+ hours_", that is 1.3 * 60min = 78min = *1h18min* on *Turbo*, and *2h30min* on *Hi*. Well, these specs are off by 20mins in either direction compared with my own tests and measurements. Especially the "_2h30min_" on Hi which seems plain wrong .. unless they stopped the timer when brightness went down to *10%* of original brightness level, following the ANSI FL-1 Standard. In contrast,_ i _stopped the timer when the light visibly dropped out of regulation and brightness decreased at a fast rate (depleted Eneloop cell!); basically that was maybe at *~50%* of original brightness level.

The above table, based on Mev's tests and measurements, also indicates that the Nitecore official specs for ANSI lumens and runtimes are way off whereas the Eagletac official specs for OTF lumens are under-spec'ed, an observation which was also made by selfbuilt (see *General Output/Runtime Comments*).

From a simple ceiling bounce test i can tell by eyesight that the D25A Clicky Ti XM-L U2, on 1xEneloop AA, is brighter than:

Quark X AA (1x Eneloop AA), 
Xeno E03 V3 XM-L U2 (1x Eneloop AA), 
Rofis JR30 (1x Eneloop AA), 
Klarus P1A (1x Eneloop AA). 
So I am really impressed by the performance on 1xEneloop AA!! So how much brighter is the Zebralight SC51 in real-life, anyone has them both?

14500's. And in a ceiling bounce comparison against my throwy T20C2 MkII with XM-L U2 and SMO reflector (spec'ed at 600 OTF lumens), it is a visual 100% tie .. as long as i feed a freshly charged 1x14500 in the D25A U2. Btw both the T20 U2 and the D25 U2 have the exact same tint. No wonder, both are Eagletac's


----------



## shelm

The *2013* Titanium edition has been released. The changes are:

The D25*A* Clicky Ti head was clearly redesigned (no more removable bezel? brass pill instead of pure copper? male head threads instead of female?), comes with the *XP-G2* emitter, and has also the 3rd gen driver (A400RC *III* instead of A400RC *II*, fyi the D25A *Mini *_Aluminum _came with the A400RC* I* driver, the D25A *Mini *_Ti _and D25A *Clicky *_Ti _were equipped with the A400RC *II*).

I dont think that i like the new Clicky Ti design of the D25*A*. In contrast, the D25*C* Clicky Ti 2013 Edition doesnt seem to have undergone such redesign! Looking now for dealers who carry the Clicky Ti *XP-G2*!!


----------



## cyclesport

The key design change for me is in the banner line "Features dimmable output when using li-ion", since it now looks like this means L-M-H & Turbo are all accessable now w/3.7v power. I notice that the Battery Safety Precaution now states "During direct drive, output at low and medium mode will be higher than normal". 

So functionally, the D25C now has a *medium* on Li-ions (instead of two high's) even though it still running in direct drive? Well, at least ET listens to it's customers and makes running changes to address shortcomings.


----------



## Skelt11

I love my D25C Ti....I want the XP-G! I see the D25A Ti on their site, but not he D25C. Anyone know where to preorder it?


----------



## bluemax_1

Curious to hear initial reviews/reports of these new Ti models. The D25A specs aren't very impressive, so I'm guessing those are the AA specs.

Curious to see reviews from someone like selfbuilt. If the 14500 outputs are good, I might have to check 'em out.


Max


----------



## shelm

Climb14er said:


> I received my EagleTac D25A Clicky Ti *2013* light and can say... this is one beautiful light! It's super lightweight, very slim and the light UI functions perfectly. The lightbeam is absolutely perfect, the amount of lumens are more than enough for me using Eneloops. The D25A simply is IMHO, a great'gentleman's pocket light', an ideal backup light for me in my mountaineering climbing pack as it's so light and small, and a light that is totally bright and functional especially for its size.
> 
> The SC52 is probably going to arrive today or tomorrow and with both of these small AA lights, they are the perfect accompaniment to my SC600 and Triton M30 18650 lights.
> 
> I'll EDC the small AA lights when I need something small but my regular EDC will still be the SC600 as it's 'the bomb' when it comes to lighting things up well. The M30 is my bedside light that resides next to my Sig P220 .45ACP and spare mag.
> 
> The EagleTac is a really cool and super bright AA light!



How sweet!! 
Which LED did you choose, XML U2 or XPG R5? And how's tint?
What can you tell us about the number of brightness levels on 14500?
Wanna share a pic or photo?
Or maybe compare it to your SC52?

Okok, i am also buying the SC52 .. but i am still waiting for more detailed reviews, selfbuilt performance graphs and Eneloop lumens measurements, *better availability* .. especially if the delivered unit is flawed (tint, LED centricity) and needs an IMMEDIATE exchange or replacement.

Thanks for sharing and congrats to your 2013 Edition light!!


----------



## Climb14er

shelm said:


> How sweet!!
> Which LED did you choose, XML U2 or XPG R5? And how's tint?
> What can you tell us about the number of brightness levels on 14500?
> Wanna share a pic or photo?
> Or maybe compare it to your SC52?
> 
> Okok, i am also buying the SC52 .. but i am still waiting for more detailed reviews, selfbuilt performance graphs and Eneloop lumens measurements, *better availability* .. especially if the delivered unit is flawed (tint, LED centricity) and needs an IMMEDIATE exchange or replacement.
> 
> Thanks for sharing and congrats to your 2013 Edition light!!



I got the XPG R5. The light is bright white. Ideal combo of corona and throw. I primarily use the on/off with the high setting. The other setting is moon-low-med-high. Strobes come on this setting after the second go-around. I like the UI! Only using Eneloops not 14500. Why? Because the Eneloops offer a more than adequate and useful amount of light w/o any heat problems. I have the SC600 for the 'full scale' blast of intense light. I'll post my opinion of the difference between the EagleTac and the SC52 when I get the latter. In the meantime, the D25A as mentioned, performs the task of a light that easily disappears in the pocket with more than enough brightness and high quality of light.


----------



## shelm

Climb14er said:


> I got the XPG R5. The light is bright white.


Thanks!

You dont have 14500's or cant you test them?
And what do you mean by XPG R5?
Are you talking of XP-G2?

You are the first to report about the 2013 Edition and we know as little as before. No 14500's, no photos, no beamshots or SC52 comparison.. We are confused lol


----------



## Climb14er

shelm said:


> Thanks!
> 
> You dont have 14500's or cant you test them?
> And what do you mean by XPG R5?
> Are you talking of XP-G2?
> 
> You are the first to report about the 2013 Edition and we know as little as before. No 14500's, no photos, no beamshots or SC52 comparison.. We are confused lol



I've got the XP- G2 R5. And while I have a Pila and 18650's... never bought 14500's. Using AA Eneloops to keep things nice and simple.


----------



## Lithium466

Hi,

Do you know a good dealer who sells D25A Ti Clicky "2013" to Europe ? How to be sure it is a 2013 version, except in looking to the differences pointed earlier in this thread (need a serious dealer !) ?
Want a XM-L or XP-G2 in neutral


----------



## TweakMDS

I currently have the D25A clicky XP-G S2 as an EDC, as I prefer the beam to the XM-L version I have of the D25A clicky Ti. The XP-G tint is also a bit nicer but not by a lot. Also have the D25C Clicky Ti in NW, but rarely carry that. 
However, I'm very excited about retiring my current EDC to the car or kitchen drawer and edc-ing a 2013 ti model. Not sure which, but it's probably going to be a D25A in cool white and maybe a D25C in NW XP-G2 if that becomes available. 

Kind of a shame that they don't make a D25LC2 clicky in titanium, because that might draw me in to the 18650 world. Might even be edc-able with all these heavy winter coats now 

However, I'm VERY interested in a beamshot of a D25C in XP-G2. The XM-L version has a nice and huge hotspot, but a tiny bit too much spill for that large of a hot spot. Maybe an XP-G2 would be nicer for that.


----------



## Fireclaw18

I ordered a D25a clicky Ti 2013 edition with XPG2 R5. Hoping it works well with IMR 14500. This will also by my first XPG2 light. Hopefully what arrives really is the 2013 edition and not the 2012 edition.

I'm also a little concerned about heat management since the light has a very small head and the 2013 edition uses a brass heatsink which seems like it should be inferior to the copper heatsink in the 2012 edition.


----------



## pharmbob

I am interested in getting a couple of these. Where are you all buying them? You cam PM me if you prefer.Thanks,
-Bob


----------



## RobME

I really enjoy these lights, but wish I could've gotten the Ti with a NW emitter. I couldn't so, I bought 'em both, and I'd do it again.


----------



## RobME

Fireclaw18 said:


> I ordered a D25a clicky Ti 2013 edition with XPG2 R5. Hoping it works well with IMR 14500. This will also by my first XPG2 light. Hopefully what arrives really is the 2013 edition and not the 2012 edition.
> 
> I'm also a little concerned about heat management since the light has a very small head and *the 2013 edition uses a brass heatsink which seems like it should be inferior to the copper heatsink in the 2012 edition*.


 Brass is mostly copper (usually in the range of 70% to 85%). It's really a non-issue.


----------



## bluemax_1

edited


----------



## GordoJones88

The 2013 D25C Titanium Clicky XMLU2/XPG2 model has the Lo/Med Lion support I want.


----------



## fnj

RobME said:


> Brass is mostly copper (usually in the range of 70% to 85%). It's really a non-issue.



The short answer: brass thermal conductivity is not very good. Pure copper is much better; even aluminum is better. Alloys of various metallic elements work in very non-intuitive ways with respect to physical, mechanical and other properties.

There are a variety of brasses: in terms of gross categories, admiralty brass, cartridge brass, copper brass, red brass and yellow brass just for starters. Thermal conductivity varies from 64 to 92 BTU per hour per degree Fahrenheit per foot (forget the units; just make sure to use the same units in comparing various materials).

For purposes of comparison, pure silver is 235, pure copper is 223, pure gold is 182, pure aluminum is 118, carbon steel is 20-30, stainless steel is 7-26, pure titanium is 11-13. So brass is quite a bit better than steel or titanium [error: used to say aluminum], but nowhere near as good as copper. I can't think of _any_ good reason to use a brass heatsink. The only even partially viable reason I can think of is if you have to solder to it, and a slug of copper is such a ridiculously high conductivity that you can't do it without burning the hell out of something.

If you want to blow your mind, consider that copper is 223, beryllium is 126, but when you mix them and get beryllium copper, it is only 38.


----------



## Fireclaw18

fnj said:


> The short answer: brass thermal conductivity is not very good. Pure copper is much better; even aluminum is better. Alloys of various metallic elements work in very non-intuitive ways with respect to physical, mechanical and other properties.
> 
> There are a variety of brasses: in terms of gross categories, admiralty brass, cartridge brass, copper brass, red brass and yellow brass just for starters. Thermal conductivity varies from 64 to 92 BTU per hour per degree Fahrenheit per foot (forget the units; just make sure to use the same units in comparing various materials).
> 
> For purposes of comparison, pure silver is 235, pure copper is 223, pure gold is 182, pure aluminum is 118, carbon steel is 20-30, stainless steel is 7-26, pure titanium is 11-13. So brass is quite a bit better than steel or aluminum, but nowhere near as good as copper. I can't think of _any_ good reason to use a brass heatsink. The only even partially viable reason I can think of is if you have to solder to it, and a slug of copper is such a ridiculously high conductivity that you can't do it without burning the hell out of something.
> 
> If you want to blow your mind, consider that copper is 223, beryllium is 126, but when you mix them and get beryllium copper, it is only 38.



This. It seems like in switching from copper to brass, Eagletac has chosen to cut corners and go with a cheaper, less effective material for the pill. That said, I'm still getting one because I want one with full support for li-ion. Hopefully the XPG2 one I've ordered won't draw quite as much current on direct drive as my 2012 D25a Ti XML. My older D25a Ti gets hot instantly on a fresh IMR.


----------



## twl

Brass and copper have extremely similar Specific Heat and Density.
They both work about the same.
I think brass is more resistant to corrosion/oxidation. 
Malkoff uses brass heatsinks in his drop-ins, and nobody has better thermal management than Malkoff. He's famous for it.

I don't think that using brass is "cutting corners" at all.


----------



## GordoJones88

When they switched from copper to brass they were trying to save a few pennies! :huh:


----------



## shelm

Talking of *Ti Clickies*:

Lightjunction has 30pcs of 2013 d25*a* xml *CW*, 30pcs of 2013 d25*a* xml *NW*, 30pcs of 2013 d25*c* xml *CW*, 30pcs of 2013 d25*c* xml *NW*
, and i've been observing the fast decrease of stock number.

Anyway, LJ has the *xml *only.
The xml NW's are popular i guess and more limited than the CW's.

But LJ doesnt carry the *XP-G2* 2013's.

i am after the XP-G2 2013 .. and still chasing.


----------



## pharmbob

So what LED type is most popular in these lights? I know this is probably subjective, but thought I would ask. Thanks


----------



## GordoJones88

pharmbob said:


> So what LED type is most popular in these lights? I know this is probably subjective, but thought I would ask. Thanks



XMLU2 cool white and XPG2 cool white.
The reason I don't necessarily suggest the neutral white,
is the cool white version is a very nice pure white on this light.


----------



## Fireclaw18

GordoJones88 said:


> XMLU2 cool white and XPG2 cool white.
> The reason I don't necessarily suggest the neutral white,
> is the cool white version is a very nice pure white on this light.



On the other hand the 4500k neutral white tint is a VERY nice neutral white. It looks almost exactly like the output from a Nichia 219 4500k 92 CRI, but much brighter.


----------



## RobME

GordoJones88 said:


> XMLU2 cool white and XPG2 cool white.
> The reason I don't necessarily suggest the neutral white,
> is the cool white version is a very nice pure white on this light.





Fireclaw18 said:


> On the other hand the 4500k neutral white tint is a VERY nice neutral white. It looks almost exactly like the output from a Nichia 219 4500k 92 CRI, but much brighter.



Have to agree with these assessments... No matter which tint is your preference, the white is very pure, and the neutral nicely done. I like Fireclaw18's analogy to the Nichia 219. This is also what my eye sees.


----------



## Fireclaw18

RobME said:


> Have to agree with these assessments... No matter which tint is your preference, the white is very pure, and the neutral nicely done. I like Fireclaw18's analogy to the Nichia 219. This is also what my eye sees.



Bottom line is Eagletac has done a fantastic job in choosing tints. The D25 series is a real treat for any tint fanatics out there.


----------



## Fireclaw18

My D25a T 2013 edition with cool white XPG2 just arrived.

Pretty nice. Unlike my 2012 D25as with XMLs, this XPG2 produces a much more focused beam.

Unlike the 2012 edition, this 2013 runs great on both Energizer lithium primaries and on AW IMR 14500s. All modes work on both battery types, though it should be noted that the lowest mode is considerably brighter on IMR than on 1.5v primaries. This light still has a very good low on IMR, but it lacks a true moonlight mode on that battery type.

Tint is a perfect pure white without a hint of green. The tint is better than that on my Zebralight SC52. It also has more throw than the SC52.

The SC52 wins in heat management though, as it has automatic step-down after 1 minute on max and a unibody construction with the emitter star mounted on the body of the light. The titanium D25 will require more attention to keep from overheating when using li-ion cells.

*Comparing my D25a 2012 Ti to my 2013 Ti, I see the following differences*:
(1) Head-shape is different. Threads on head of the 2013 are on the brass pill. In contrast the 2012 has threads on the inside of the titanium end of the head. With the 2012 edition you had titanium on titanium, which made the threads slightly hard to turn and gave a grinding feel. Since the 2013 has titanium on brass, this isn't an issue and the threads are much easier to turn with no grinding. It's much easier and more pleasant to twist between mode groups on the 2013 edition.
(2) There seem to be fewer threads holding the head on in the 2013 edition. It took just over 2 revolutions to fully screw in the 2013 head compared to just over 3 for the 2012 edition. Fortunately, risk of losing the head should be minimal if you tighten the head. The threads are nicely cut and the head does not wobble even when slightly unscrewed.
(3) 2012 edition had a removable bezel for easy emitter swap. 2013 edition appears to get rid of this. I haven't attempted to open up the head on the 2013 edition, but I suspect the user would need to grip the brass pill threads and then unscrew the titanium outer casing of the head to access the emitter. I have no idea if it has threadlock or not. Bottom line is swapping the emitter in the 2013 edition looks like it would be much harder.
(4) due to the change in headshape, the 2013 edition has slightly more knurling than the 2012.


----------



## shelm

Awesome news, thanks for sharing the details!

How well is the LED centered on your sample?

How nice is the beam pattern .. does the beam look nice?


----------



## Fireclaw18

LED is perfectly centered.

Beam pattern is excellent, with a bright central hotspot surrounded by a wide spill.

Beam pattern looks very similar to that from my Zebralight SC80, except that the D25a on IMR is much brighter than the SC80 on 14500.


----------



## gunga

Can you post pictures please? I am very curious about this one... Hope it can be modded.


----------



## shelm

Sounds like a winner then!! 

I have submitted my order .. but not with LightJunction because they only have the XML (cw/nw) version, not the highly desirable XP-G2 version.



Will also submit an order for SC52 when it comes out with XP-G2 .. and if i like the Eagtac better i could sell the SC52 without problems


----------



## gunga

Who has the xpg2 version in Ti? I am liking this one!


----------



## AVService

I just got a D25C Clicky XP-G S2 Neutral this afternoon but it is not Ti.
I am impressed with this one for sure. I don't really like the interface so far at all but the color and shape of the beam and overall output are very nice. It is also a lot smaller than I was expecting!

I think I may have to gift it and try the Ti!

It was just so inexpensive though I had to try one.

Ed


----------



## RobME

AVService said:


> I just got a D25C Clicky XP-G S2 Neutral this afternoon but it is not Ti.
> I am impressed with this one for sure. I don't really like the interface so far at all ...Ed


I think the UI is fine. Ed, fwiw... (and if you don't know), if you're in any of the blinking modes, you can soft press the button - for at least one second - to go directly back to start. In other words; to get out of the disco modes fast - without clicking off, soft press for at least 1 sec.

PS - I owe you a PM.


----------



## AVService

RobME said:


> I think the UI is fine. Ed, fwiw... (and if you don't know), if you're in any of the blinking modes, you can soft press the button - for at least one second - to go directly back to start. In other words; to get out of the disco modes fast - without clicking off, soft press for at least 1 sec.
> 
> PS - I owe you a PM.



OK that is handy,I am sure glad that one isn't in the manual or anything?!?
I had just resigned myself to lose memory but that little trick does make it manageable I guess?
I don't understand why Mode Memory has anything to do with the Mode Rotation too but......

Thanks Rob


----------



## GordoJones88

AVService said:


> I just got a D25C Clicky XP-G S2 Neutral this afternoon but it is not Ti.
> I think I may have to gift it and try the Ti!


 

The 2013 D25C Titanium now has full 16340 Lion support so Low/Med do not become Turbo.

Can you try a 16340 in your new non-Titanium D25C XPG2 to see if perhaps they fixed in that model also?

Edit: He says Low/Med become Turbo with a 16340.


----------



## cyclesport

GordoJones88 said:


> The 2013 D25C Titanium now has full Lion support so Low/Med do not direct drive into Turbo.
> 
> Can you try a 16340 in your new non-Titanium D25C to see if perhaps they fixed in that model also?



I believe it still goes out of regulation into direct drive on Li-ions. The new driver just gives you all modes now.


----------



## GordoJones88

cyclesport said:


> I believe it still goes out of regulation into direct drive on Li-ions. The new driver just gives you all modes now.



No, he replied it loses the Low/Med mode.

Only the 2013 D25 Titanium has the new driver with all modes Lion support.


----------



## cyclesport

GordoJones88 said:


> No, he replied it loses the Low/Med mode.
> 
> Only the 2013 D25 *Titanium* has the new driver with all modes Lion support.



I was refering to the 2013 Ti D25.


----------



## Fireclaw18

Just noticed another thing with my new D25a Ti 2013 edition XPG2:

On 1.5v AA primary the light has 3 low, medium, and high. Tighten the bezel for max. So 4 brightness settings + disco modes.
On 14500 IMR, high on bezel loosen mode is the same as max on bezel tighten mode. So the light effectively has 3 brightness settings + disco modes.

Still a vast improvement over the 2012 edition on Ti. My 2012 edition D25as only get low and max + disco modes. And the low setting is unreliable and 2/3 of the time disappears leaving the light with just one non-disco mode.


----------



## shelm

Fireclaw18 said:


> On 14500 IMR, high on bezel loosen mode is the same as max on bezel tighten mode. So the light effectively has 3 brightness settings



Sounds good to me! On the D25-series it is difficult anyway to concern between Hi(tightened head) vs. Hi(loosened head). If there is a _dark pause_  in between, the user will not be able to tell by heart or by eyes if the head is tightened or loosened. 

I am wondering why they got rid of the removable bezel. It was a characteristic design element of the D25-series. I am missing it already.

Which design has more grown on you, the original design vs. the 2013 design? — Or no deal?

Sure the torch gets _really _hot on Eneloop Hi-mode (tightened/loosened, doesnt matter) after 30secs in unattended tailstand mode, doesnt it?


----------



## Fireclaw18

shelm said:


> Sounds good to me! On the D25-series it is difficult anyway to concern between Hi(tightened head) vs. Hi(loosened head). If there is a _dark pause_  in between, the user will not be able to tell by heart or by eyes if the head is tightened or loosened.
> 
> I am wondering why they got rid of the removable bezel. It was a characteristic design element of the D25-series. I am missing it already.
> 
> Which design has more grown on you, the original design vs. the 2013 design? — Or no deal?
> 
> Sure the torch gets _really _hot on Eneloop Hi-mode (tightened/loosened, doesnt matter) after 30secs in unattended tailstand mode, doesnt it?



I don't have Eneloops so can't tell how hot it gets on those.

Of the 2 designs I admit I really liked the idea of the removable bezel. Also with the old design the exposed part of the head was larger and there were more threads on the head so it was easier to get leverage to turn it. However, this was countered by the 2012 Ti have ti on ti threads which were difficult to turn one-handed. Still, the aluminum D25a was easier to turn than the new 2013 titanium simply because there's more head to grip. But the 2013 ti is easier to turn than the 2012 ti due to the much smoother brass on ti threads. I think for titanium the 2013 body design is better because it's easier to use one-handed due to the smooth threads. But for an aluminum light I prefer the 2012 design with its removable steel bezel and larger head surface area.

I'm still not decided if I like the XPG2 over XML. The XML puts out more light, but is floodier.

If they come out with an aluminum D25a clicky with the 2013 driver and a 4500k neutral XML emitter, I'd probably buy that. Titanium looks great, but there's definitely something to be said for the ultra-light weight of aluminum combined with its better heat management. Also, I think I do prefer the 4500k neutral tint.


----------



## twl

This light goes into direct drive on Turbo with a 14500 in it, according to the website.
An IMR battery has lower internal resistance than normal lithium-ion batteries, and can sustain much higher currents, so it can producer higher lumen output in a direct drive light than a normal lithium-ion battery can. Unless there is a current limiting device in the light, it should be brighter on IMR.


----------



## AVService

I was playing around last night with my new 4500K model and it is a very nice color beam,especially inside,it was also 20 degrees and 60mph winds here so I stayed inside!


----------



## cave dave

gunga said:


> Who has the xpg2 version in Ti? I am liking this one!



I ordered the 2013 D25A XPG2 Ti in *neutral *from Illumination Gear. He thinks I'll be the first in the country to get one.

I think it will arrive Wed, but maybe Monday (Dec 24th) if the post office is delivering.


----------



## Flucero28

cave dave said:


> I ordered the 2013 XPG2 Ti in *neutral *from Illumination Gear. He thinks I'll be the first in the country to get one.
> 
> I think it will arrive Wed, but maybe Monday (Dec 24th) if the post office is delivering.



I want one, but dont see it on their website. Did you have to call?


----------



## cave dave

It's on the website with the rest of the Eagletacs but buried further down the page. Use Control-F (find) and search the page for "2013"


----------



## rjking

Has anyone had experience with pts-flashlight.com? They seems to have stock for the Eagletac D25A Clicky Ti XP-G2 R5 and D25C Clicky Ti XP-G2 R5 Limited Edition 2013.


----------



## gunga

I have never used them but have heard good things about them.


----------



## Climb14er

rjking said:


> Has anyone had experience with pts-flashlight.com? They seems to have stock for the Eagletac D25A Clicky Ti XP-G2 R5 and D25C Clicky Ti XP-G2 R5 Limited Edition 2013.



I bought from them in the past... good company. I believe they are affiliated with the other company that sent me the D25A 2013 Ti Clicky last week. They're a very good company as well.


----------



## cave dave

cave dave said:


> I ordered the 2013 D25A XPG2 Ti in *neutral *from Illumination Gear. He thinks I'll be the first in the country to get one.
> 
> I think it will arrive Wed, but maybe Monday (Dec 24th) if the post office is delivering.



Well I got the 2013 D25A Ti XP-G2 neutral on Monday and did not open it till Christmas today. Sadly the unit I received is defective.  
It does not have a turbo mode when you tighten the head. It also won't program into the moonlight mode since it doesn't recognize the difference between tight and not tight on the head. Sort of a disappointing Christmas present. 

I did try it out with a LiIon and the High mode is much brighter and it has three distinct modes, so that is cool and the main reason I wanted to try out the 2013 model.

Here is a pic of the new head configuration:


----------



## GordoJones88

cave dave said:


> It does not have a turbo mode when you tighten the head. It also won't program into the moonlight mode since it doesn't recognize the difference between tight and not tight on the head.


 
Some people have problems if the clicky end has been twisted out of position.
Try twisting it in either direction to see if it helps.
Put the clip directly in between the logos on each side.


----------



## shelm

GordoJones88 said:


> Some people have problems if the clicky end has been twisted out of position.
> Try twisting it in either direction to see if it helps.
> Put the clip directly in between the logos on each side.



Nice workaround trick, potential.
But here i am assuming that cave dave's sample is simply faulty.
cave dave, i wouldnt waste time or efforts on a fix. just get a quick FREE replacement copy from your dealer and be done with the problem.
I should have my copy within 10 days so that i can report too.
What a bummer that your copy was faulty out of the box!


----------



## reppans

cave dave said:


> Well I got the 2013 D25A Ti XP-G2 neutral on Monday and did not open it till Christmas today. Sadly the unit I received is defective.
> It does not have a turbo mode when you tighten the head. It also won't program into the moonlight mode since it doesn't recognize the difference between tight and not tight on the head. Sort of a disappointing Christmas present.



Try and flex the head sideways to see if the head can at least sense the turbo mode. On my post #362, I had an example where the threads were cut just a bit short and I fixed it by force cutting (tighten/loosen hard 20x)... or just return it, of course.


----------



## american

is the tighten mode supposed to only have turbo and strobe? it seems idont have to do the twist the head 3 times on mine as it always comes on moon mode when loosened and comes on turbo tighten is this right?


----------



## ZRXBILL

american said:


> is the tighten mode supposed to only have turbo and strobe?



Yes.


----------



## cave dave

reppans said:


> Try and flex the head sideways to see if the head can at least sense the turbo mode. On my post #362, I had an example where the threads were cut just a bit short and I fixed it by force cutting (tighten/loosen hard 20x)... or just return it, of course.



This trick worked for me. Thanks!  Flexing in one direction allowed a brief burst of light so I cranked it down harder and now I can reliably get into the turbo mode and also reprogram into moonlight. 

The only issue now is that there is almost no difference between the Moonlight and the Low options. This new 2013 model has the Moonlight about 0.2lm and Low is about 0.6lm. This is likely the way it is designed. I like the 2012 model in that the normal low mode was about 5lm and the moonlight was around 0.2 lumen. 

Are others seeing only a minimal difference in the moonlight mode vs normal mode?


----------



## american

so loose head gets you moon low medium, and tighten gets you full then strobe correct? it seams doing the 3 times head thing does nothing for me and it is always in moon mode


----------



## reppans

american said:


> so loose head gets you moon low medium, and tighten gets you full then strobe correct? it seams doing the 3 times head thing does nothing for me and it is always in moon mode



The 2012 was (based on my DSLR lumen meter)

loose: 0.3/6/80 tight: 125/strobe (<close enough to spec)

>3x loosen/tighten reprogram 

loose: 2.5/15/80 tight: 125/strobe


----------



## american

Sounds about right but mines a 2013

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2


----------



## reppans

But you can't seem to reprogram with the 3x tight bezel?


----------



## american

nope it seams the same has 3 modes plus flashies on loosen. and tighten has turbo and strobe


----------



## reppans

Maybe it's what Cave Dave said... the two lows are 0.2 and 0.6 which may be indistinguishable? 

Can anyone comment on what the two medium levels might be on the 2013?


----------



## american

Could be

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2


----------



## itsjusttim

GordoJones88 said:


> Some people have problems if the clicky end has been twisted out of position.
> Try twisting it in either direction to see if it helps.
> Put the clip directly in between the logos on each side.



i can confirm that this does help fix clicky problems. thank you.


----------



## american

Does the clicky unscrew?


----------



## rjking

Purchased 22nd of December 2012. 

This waiting game is making me crazy. :shakehead


----------



## shelm

i got mine, *2013 edition*, with* xp-g2* R5 *coolwhite*, d25a. i am suuuuuper happy with this product. it's a titanium light, pricey enough, and its overall beam quality should match the price and premiumness of the product unlike the greenish-yellowish XM-L U3 beam of the Sirius Titanium lol, and it does match! here some details:

the beam on my unit .. 

..in total lumens output _easily _outperforms P1A (rated at 150 ANSI lm) and Rofis (selfbuilt measured 150 ANSI lm), although it is rated at only 121 ANSI lm by the manufacturer wtf. Because of the creamish tint, in a visual ceiling bounce comparison i would even assert that this light looks brighter or equal to my greenish Quark X and the D25A Clicky Ti XM-L U2 CW (rated at 122 ANSI lm). 
..looks amazingly bright on Eneloop, with an intense middle-sized hotspot, and throws (rated ??m beam distance) about as far as the tight beam of P1A (rated 100m beam distance). that's further than SC52 xml cw afaik! 
..is also floody with a bright usuable spill and very broad spill angle 
..doesnt have a sharply cut, highly defined round circle as hotspot (see LD01, P1A for example) but a blurry round hotspot similar to MiX6 or Thrunite Ti. corona artifacts are perfectly smoothed out thru the OP reflector and not transparent unless the beam profile is rotated quickly on a white wall close up. 
..has *no donut hole*!! even small focused hotspots such as the Thrunite Ti suddenly reveal a minimal donut holiness when compared to this donut-free beam. the sudden visual appearance of donut holes depending on the comparison beam (here: Eagtac XP-G2) is truely a new unheard of phenomenon. 
..looks perfectly clean and symmetrical. there are no irregularities, impurities or speckles in the hotspot. the hotspot is a uniformly lit center area and unicolor, and then gets washed out within the blurry corona. 
..has the best hotspot & corona tint of all of my lights, namely a creamish white, uniformly so across hotspot and corona; there are no tint differences between hotspot and corona, only brightness differences! unlike XM-L U2/U3's there is no hint of green/yellow/lime in the hotspot nor corona, and i would call it a "neutralish CW", a tint between pure white cold CW's and non-warmish NW's: against pure white reference CW's (Eagtac XP-G S2 CW, MiX6, Thrunite Ti, Eagtac XML T6 CW, Rofis XP-G R5) it doesnt look cold but literally neutral, and against the well-known warmish Eagletac XML T6 NW tint (4500K) it does look cooler. immensely pleasing tint! and most importantly as mentioned, *no hint of greenishness*!! 
..has a spill tint typical of CREE CW led's with light purplish hue at the outer spill zone to become only noticeable when nearing a white wall. for sure the spill isnt greenish or greenish-yellowish like a Quark or Olight Baton . from a distance the creamish center plus the light purplish spill mix into a seemingly untinted non-coolish white, and the total impression compares well to best units of MiX6 or Thrunite Ti. 
..clearly, has now become *my #1 best beam*, #1 reference beam. 

From all we know and have seen there is no way that the SC52 xml cw tint (do i sound like a tint snob? :thumbsup looks any better than this beautiful, _literally neutral_ white looking Eagtac xp-g2 cw tint. I can promise you that *any* SC52 xml cw unit will finally look noticeably greenish or greenish-yellowish in some or all areas of the beam pattern, hotspot/corona/spill, when compared to this creamish xp-g2 cw tint which looks like 01:00p.m. noon sunlight. oo:







Because of the many emitter options..


D25C Clicky 2013 Ti XM-L U2 CW (lightjunction) 
D25C Clicky 2013 Ti XM-L T6 NW (lightjunction) 
D25C Clicky 2013 Ti XP-G2 R5 CW (illuminationgear) 
D25C Clicky 2013 Ti XP-G2 NW WTF (illuminationgear?) 
D25A Clicky 2013 Ti XM-L U2 CW (lightjunction) 
D25A Clicky 2013 Ti XM-L T6 NW (lightjunction) 
D25A Clicky 2013 Ti XP-G2 R5 CW (illuminationgear) <--- that's the one i am talking here!! 
D25A Clicky 2013 Ti XP-G2 NW WTF (illuminationgear?) 
..the number of actually available *D25A Clicky 2013 Ti XP-G2 R5 CW* units is very limited and i would hurry to get 1 copy from your preferred dealer. Some Eagtac users like the Eagtac NW tint (4500K) and i have such a D25-series light too. But personally i find the Eagtac NW tint too warmish: it looks like 08:00p.m. early evening Californian sunset light in summer. So there you have it: Eagtac's T6 NW looks very warmish similar to weak incandescent bulbs, the U2 CW looks cool with a tendency to greenish or lime similar to SC52 xml cw or Sirius Titanium, and the XP-G2 R5 CW looks literally neutral, creamish white of noon sunlight, i.e. neither warmish nor freezing cold pure white like Eagtac's XP-G S2 CW and Eagtac's XM-L T6 CW. I've seen production variances of CREE U2 CW's and T6 CW's in Eagtac lights but havent heard of any complaints regarding the XP-G2 R5 CW in Eagtac lights, so it appears a very safe choice. To me it has the best or perfect tint among these 3 emitter options.

cave dave mentioned that his Clicky 2013 Ti would come with a *NEUTRALWHITE xp-g2 wtf*, provided by Illuminationgear. the Eagletac website doesnt mention XP-G2 NW's and i didnt know that Cree released neutral white XP-G2's. I have no idea what color or tint such XP-G2's produce. Again the same warmish 4500K 08:00p.m. sunset light of the T6 NW's? Then no thanks!


----------



## rjking

You should have told me this before I made my purchase. :sigh:

Now I'm worrying what an XML-U2 cool white would look like.


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## shelm

rjking said:


> You should have told me this before I made my purchase. :sigh:
> 
> Now I'm worrying what an XML-U2 cool white would look like.



Don't worry .. in this thread not many people mentioned the tint. I've only become a tint snob after buying a series of premium lights and then being let down by the beam quality, i.e. tint! The worst of all was the 78$ Quark QT2A-X and Titanium Olight Baton S10, both stemming from the same factory: Olight. I find greenish XM-L tints in Quark X and Baton S10 Ti totally unacceptable, so yes i have become a tint snob.

If i pay a premium price for a flashlight, then i expect premium build quality, premium quality control and premium beam with premium tint. Stuff like Klarus MiX6 didnt let me down: expensive, superb craft, elegance, machining, fit and finish, design, quality control, beam beauty and a literally neutral pure white tint impression from 1.0m+ wall distance in hotspot, corona and spill areas. The MiX6 cant be hailed enough for its top of industry quality.

In the end only hard-core flashaholics or tint snobs would care as i do. In fact, selfbuilt reviewer never describes the tint and beam pattern in detail and with comparisons to other well-known flashlight models. I find my previous post much more helpful and informative than small white wall shots at different exposure times ymmv.

Please let us know how you like the XM-L U2 CW beam on your 2013 Ti copy. Eagtac is known for releasing lights with nice tinted beams but a high power XM-L U2/U3 led cant be changed from what it is: a poor tinted product of CREE Inc. I've seen great tinted CREE XM-L T6 CW's, so that was a great product. But this new CREE product beats them all:

XP-G2 R5 CW!! :rock:

Eagtac Clicky Ti shoppers can profit from it now already before Zebralight updates their SC52 product. Thrunite has updated some models, and Fenix is going to release XP-G2 editions of LD12 and LD22 as they told me.


----------



## TweakMDS

I hope to be able to post a color temp and output comparison between the SC52 and the XP-G2 D25A Clicky Ti 2013 tomorrow, as I recieved both lights today. However, my light meter is at work and camera battery is in the charger...


----------



## Jimbo75

shelm said:


> i got mine, *2013 edition*, with* xp-g2* R5 *coolwhite*, d25a.............................................................................................
> .....................................................................................................................................................................................................
> ......................................................................................................................................................................................................



A picture is worth a thousand words.....oh right, you went with a thousand words , thanks for the update.

Any chance of a pic :wave:.


----------



## shelm

Jimbo75 said:


> oh right, you went with a thousand words , thanks for the update.



+ 1

yes i went with the words. my cam is broken and i've spent my money in Titanium lights and am now saving for Zebra lights and none of my folks wants to lend me their cam because i never let them borrow my lights and so on :wave:

just believe my words. tints and beam representations on photos can lie. my text is detailed and tells the truth: buy the XP-G2 Clicky Ti instead of XM-L Clicky Ti.

The Eneloop AA and the XP-G2 emitter are a perfect match!

@TweakMDS
Looking forward to your shots, thanks for your efforts!!


----------



## Lithium466

Hi,

I already got a 2012 D25A Ti Clicky XM-L U2 CW...is the 2013 version (I'd like the XP-G2 NW !) worth it since I already got a 2012 ? 
My wife start saying that I got too many lights


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## Jimbo75

shelm said:


> my cam is broken.....
> 
> just believe my words. tints and beam representations on photos can lie. my text is detailed and tells the truth: buy the XP-G2 Clicky Ti instead of XM-L Clicky Ti.



No probs.

Wish I was able to read this before ordering 2 x XML Neutral Ti clickys...I'm sure I can convince myself they are better .



shelm said:


> TweakMDS Looking forward to your shots, thanks for your efforts!!



+1


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## Fireclaw18

TweakMDS said:


> I hope to be able to post a color temp and output comparison between the SC52 and the XP-G2 D25A Clicky Ti 2013 tomorrow, as I recieved both lights today. However, my light meter is at work and camera battery is in the charger...



I have both. The tint on the cool white XP-G2 D25a 2013 edition is slightly better than the tint on the SC52.

I have no way to measure the output on the light, but at a guess I think the D25a on AW IMR 14500 is outputting maybe 450 lumens. Slightly less than the SC52 on Zebralight 840 Mah 14500. However, the D25a has a brighter hotspot and slightly more throw.

I'm considering buying a 2013 Ti D25C with XML. I wonder how bright it would get if I swap out the stock XML for an XML2. I'm thinking maybe 920 lumens on AW IMR 16340. That would make it around twice as bright as the D25a XPG2.


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## GordoJones88

I believe the general consensus with the original black aluminum D25 XMLU2 clicky was the cool white has a very nice premium nearly perfect white tint, and the neutral white was a bit yellowish.


----------



## TweakMDS

Ok, so without pics yet, here's a few minor thoughts I had after last night's fiddling with the new lights.

First off, I tested the following side by side:
- Eagletac D25A Clicky XP-G S2 (CW)
- Eagletac D25A Ti Clicky XM-L U2 (CW - 2012 model)
- Eagletac D25A Ti Clicky XP-G2 R5 (CW - 2013 model)
- Eagletac D25C Ti Clicky XM-L T6 (NW - 2012 model)
- Zebralight SC52 XM-L (not sure of bin)

* UI: *
I was new to the Zebralight UI, but it took me exactly 11 seconds to get the hang of it. 
Eagletac's UI is very familliar to me, and I'm happy to report that where the 2012 Ti models had a bit of grinding due to the Ti on Ti action, the 2013 model is VERY smooth to twist the head. Major improvement in my opinion, since it's the first thing you notice.

*Output:*
Some were brighter than others, nothing conclusive yet. I put fresh Energizer Lithium AA's in the new lights and the ZebraLight seemed to win out on max output against the AA's, but not by a lot. The D25C is still in a class of it's own between the others and I know it's silly to include it, but it's small enough to pass for an EDC in their rotation.

*Beam: *
D25A in XP-G2 has quite a tight beam for such a small light. Hotspot looked to be a tiny bit smaller than the D25A XP-G. 
The Zebralight beam is more in the direction of the D25C XM-L. 

*Tint: *
I'm sorry to say that the XP-G S2 in my aluminum D25A is STILL the favorite. However, none of the tints in my new lights disappointed me. Without testing, I'm still going to claim a small tint lottery victory in the SC52. Tint actually looks very similar between the SC52 and the D25A Ti Clicky XP-G2.

*Further testing:*
I'll leave runtime, lux and lumens output testing to the experts here, but I will try to offer some new looks into this.
My testing will mostly be on the beam shape and the amount a light deviates from "daylight white balance", by calibrating my DSLR to 5500K + 10 against an 18% graycard. Keep in mind that won't be a "good or bad test", but more of a quantitative measurement.
I own a Sekonic light meter that will do a relatively good job of measuring the light output, so I'll also do a small bounce test at max power as well as a lux test at 1 meter (it measures Ev in 1/10th of an f-stop, but those can easily be converted to lux).

Any additions or recommendations on this?


----------



## rookiedaddy

got mine today...












really very nice creamy white tint! I'm impressed! my first Ti light! LOL!


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## gunga

So you can get proper low/medium modes with RCR123?


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## Dubois

I just received my first Titanium light - D25A Clicky. It's the 2013 edition, XP-G2. First impressions are that it exceeds my expectations - for a small premium on the aluminium version, I was expecting a fairly shoddy piece of work. It's not at all, in fact it is beautiful.

Some comments. There is a small gap between the body and head, even when tightened, and the brass shows. Still, that brass makes twisting the head very smooth, with no titanium grind.

The beam is as beautiful as Shelm describes - this is my first XP-G2 emitter, and I'm very happy.

The downside is a pre-flash on switching on in moonlight mode. Also, I tried many times to do the three times head twist to access the second series of modes, to no avail. Seems this light only have the one set of head loose modes (with more blinkies that I, or anyone else will ever need). Good to read hear of the one second trick to avoid these and reset back to moonlight (which, incidentally seemed quite bright - brighter than, say, a SC600 - but perhaps only because the hotspot is quite focused).

Anyway, after playing with the head many times, and going through the modes, I noticed that the pre-flash had gone. Great. Except that it returned soon after. I think maybe the mode changing *had *had some effect. At one stage, going through the modes in sequence, the low mode appeared, without preflash, but then noticibly dimmer after a second. Very strange. 

I have it now set so that the pre-flash doesn't appear, but I'm pretty sure that it isn't a true moonlight mode, so maybe the head twisting, mode changing has worked.

Confused? Not as much as I was! It's still a really nice light, and bright enough on eneloops for me not to want to use 14500 (I did, briefly, and the high (head loose) is exactly the same as turbo (head tight).

Oh, and I haven't tried to get the tailcap off - doubt if I could without freezing etc.


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## shelm

reppans said:


> Maybe it's what Cave Dave said... the two lows are 0.2 and 0.6 which may be indistinguishable?
> 
> Can anyone comment on what the two medium levels might be on the 2013?



Thanks Dubois for sharing your careful observations. Complicated and confusing stuff, difficult to reproduce by my part 
I have pre-flash on my D25A Clicky Ti XM-L U2 CW too and i dont mind .. i have it on my Quark X too. So it's there on my XP-G2 too. A nice family 

I cant notice the difference between lower cycle (Moonlit - Med2 - Hi2 - blinkies) and upper cycle (Lo - Med1 - Hi1 - blinkies) either. Maybe someone can ask Eagletac manufacturer for a short statement. While i am thinking that it was fun to switch between Lo and Moonlit on the Ti U2 CW model, i can totally live with missing Lo. My Ti XP-G2 CW model has the lower cycle only, i.e. with the real Moonlight mode. Awesome stuff!

reppans i dont have any luxmeter, so i cant measure Moonlit-vs-Lo and the Med2-vs-Med1 differences, sorry. From my observation, i would say that the upper cycle is totally absent on my unit, and i am fine with that. Maybe the missing upper cycle is a new feature introduced by the new driver *A400RC III* driver for better 14500 compatibility. I am almost sure that this is the case.. unless someone has indeed a *2013 *D25A Clicky Ti unit with 2 cycles both on Eneloop *and on 14500*. 

Yes on 14500, Hi-mode with head loosened is the same as Turbo-mode with head tightened.

With head loosened and 14500, i get Lo - Med - Hi - blinkies. Just perfect. I'd call this "full" 14500 compatibility even though 14500-Hi is the same as 14500-Turbo.

I mainly bought this for the *tint *and *throw *and the fact that it in RL it *looks brighter* than the floody XML, and that alone is worth the update imho.

Me too i have a lil gap which shows the brass. Eagletac factory workers could have tried harder to minimize the gap, i agree. The torch's UI, 2 mode groups, and the male threads of the head actually require the existence of a tiny gap between head edge and body edge because you couldnt switch modes if it were the opposite: overlong female body threads. With overlong female body threads you'd tighten the head onto the body edge —the gap would be 100% gone!— but the inner head would not make electrical contact to initialize mode switching between the 2 mode groups. Having that gap means that we're on the safe side technically speaking lol 






the gap shows on their official webpage picture too wtf!


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## fnj

I think if the brass heatsink and the brass into which the threads are cut is the same slug of metal, we have found our reason why they used brass (copper isn't much good for threads). If this is the case, I approve. Is this the case?


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## reppans

Thanks for the confirmation Shelm... quick question on a 14500 - do all the modes bump up in brightness, sounds like high > turbo, but do you lose sub-lumen, and does medium move up too?

TweakMDS, could you compare your 2012 D25A XML to the SC52 on moonlight and low? I've measured them to be 0.3 and 2.5 lumens with my DSLR and was wondering if they looked the same between the two lights for you.

(BTW, let me know if you're interested in trying to use a DSLR as an ambient lumen meter)


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## shelm

reppans said:


> question on a 14500 - do all the modes bump up in brightness, sounds like high > turbo, but do you lose sub-lumen, and does medium move up too?



XP-G2 CW. 14500 bumps up all Eneloop levels: 
Eneloop-Moonlit < 14500-Lo
Eneloop-Med2 < 14500-Med
Eneloop-Hi2 < 14500-Hi
Eneloop-Turbo < 14500-Turbo (=14500-Hi)

And as mentioned, 14500-Turbo is the same as 14500-Hi. There is no brightness difference. So we have 4 brightless nevels on Eneloop, and 3 blightness revels on 14500 sorry for my Engrish.

How bright is the 14500-Hi?

I dunno. It is not as bright as XM-L U2 on 14500.

Please buy D25A 2013 Clicky Ti XP-G2 and join the 2013 club!


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## reppans

Hmmm, I'm thinking of staying with my 2012 on Eneloops - I'm a floody low lumen/long runtime fan and love my XMLs and really kinda like having the distinct 0.3/6 and 2.5/15 lumen L/M banks.


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## american

I have the 2013 ti and the sc52 the zl goes much lower in moon you can reprogram 2 levels lower then stock. My eagletac also has the preflash


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## Fireclaw18

american said:


> I have the 2013 ti and the sc52 the zl goes much lower in moon you can reprogram 2 levels lower then stock. My eagletac also has the preflash



Yes, the SC52 definitely has more modes. I have the 2013 D25a XPG2 cool white and the SC52.

Comparing the SC52 on 840 Mah Zebralight brand 14500 to my 2013 Ti D25a on AW IMR 14500 I notice the following:
1. The SC52's low is much lower than the D25a's low. The SC52 has actual moonlight mode. The D25a just has a standard low and no moonlight.
2. The SC52's max power puts out slightly more lumens than the D25a (my guess is the SC52 is putting out 500 and the D25 is putting out 400-450).
3. The SC52 has much better thermal management. This is to be expected due to its one-piece body design and aluminum construction. The SC52 gets hot along its whole length. In contrast the D25 gets burning hot at the head while the body remains relatively cool. 
4. Due to the automatic 1-minute stepdown and superior thermal management the SC52 is one light I'd feel comfortable giving to non-flashaholics even with 14500 installed. Due to the risk of fire, I'd never give a non-flashaholic a D25 with a 14500 in it.
5. The D25's spill is much dimmer than the spill on the SC52. However, the D25's hotspot is slightly brighter and it throws further.
6. The D25's cool white tint is slightly better than the SC52's tint.
7. The SC52's interface with 3 programmable mode groups and 11 different brightness settings are superior to the D25's very limited 3 brightness settings.

If I could only take one of the above lights with me, I'd take the SC52. Both are great lights though.

I wonder how hard it is to take the emitter out of a 2013 D25c Ti. I've ordered one with a cool white U2 emitter. If I can get to the emitter I'm thinking of swapping it for an XML2 U2 for an extra 20% brightness. Selfbuilt measured the D25C on IMR16340 direct drive at 770 lumens. Upping that to XML2 should raise the brightness to around 920 lumens out-the-front ... a true pocket rocket!


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## shelm

Fireclaw18 said:


> 2. The SC52's max power puts out slightly more lumens than the D25a (my guess is the SC52 is putting out 500 and the D25 is putting out 400-450).



*Great post, thanks!!*
How much brighter is the SC52 on Eneloop — by a lot?
selfbuilt and Zebralight light are generous with their official/posted ratings, measurements, test and estimations, so i do/am the same :nana::
I herewith officially declare _my unit_ of *D25A Clicky Ti XP-G2 R5 CW* to output *est. 200 ANSI lumens* on Eneloop AA 2nd gen.

It is certainly more than 150 ANSI lumens since it clearly(!) beats my P1A and JR30. Totally stunning!! oo: :huh: 



TweakMDS said:


> - Zebralight SC52: f/10
> - 2013 Eagletac D25A Ti XP-G2 CW: f/9
> - 2012 Eagletac D25A Ti XM-L CW: f/9
> - 2012 Eagletac D25C Ti XM-L NW: f/14



I dont have a grasp of f-stop numbers. Please are you able to convert these brightness numbers into percentages? Since this is the Clicky Ti thread, feel free to assign 100% to the Ti XP-G2. It has a good mixture between throw and flood. Perfect as reference ceiling bounce number.


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## TweakMDS

Ahead of real testing, on my lightmeter, the Zebralight SC52 was exactly 1/3rd f-stop brighter than the 2013 D25A Ti on XP-G2.
Ceiling/corner bounce with a sekonic ls308s (with a fixed shutterspeed and ISO) and gave it
- Zebralight SC52: f/10
- 2013 Eagletac D25A Ti XP-G2 CW: f/9
- 2012 Eagletac D25A Ti XM-L CW: f/9
- 2012 Eagletac D25C Ti XM-L NW: f/14

I'll redo these tests though, since I didn't have the lightmeter in the right mode and the bedroom wasn't completely dark so I had some light pollution from outside (metered f/5 without any flashlight on).


----------



## rookiedaddy

just to share a few more pics of the newly acquired D25C Ti XP-G2 edition...
























































the tints and beam on these XP-G2 D25C Ti are some of the nicest cool white I've seen. needless to say, I'm impressed! :thumbsup:
I much prefer these over the XML (both cool and neutral white edition) as the beam and tint on these XP-G2 are simply better.
low and medium mode has PWM-like effect at pretty high frequency (can only detect if I swipe/shake the light very fast, or shine it onto a fan, or use a video camera)... as I'm pretty sensitive to PWM, I thought I will be affected, but to my surprise, after 2 days of EDC-ing, I didn't notice its effect at all during use, and I'm constantly and consciously reminding myself of the PWM-like at the low and medium mode while using it... yes, you can say that I'm searching for the PWM effect, but I found none during usage. nice!


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## shelm

d25a 2013 clicky ti xp-g2 cw: High frecuency PWM confirmed on Moonlit and Med2. No PWM on Hi2 and on Turbo.


----------



## reppans

TweakMDS said:


> Ahead of real testing, on my lightmeter, the Zebralight SC52 was exactly 1/3rd f-stop brighter than the 2013 D25A Ti on XP-G2.
> Ceiling/corner bounce with a sekonic ls308s (with a fixed shutterspeed and ISO) and gave it
> - Zebralight SC52: f/10
> - 2013 Eagletac D25A Ti XP-G2 CW: f/9
> - 2012 Eagletac D25A Ti XM-L CW: f/9
> - 2012 Eagletac D25C Ti XM-L NW: f/14
> 
> I'll redo these tests though, since I didn't have the lightmeter in the right mode and the bedroom wasn't completely dark so I had some light pollution from outside (metered f/5 without any flashlight on).



Not sure if a light meter works the same way as a DSLR, but if so, try this cool little trick:

Instead if fixing the speed and ISO, try "calibrating" aperture and ISO and then fixing them. Calibration is merely finding some combination of aperture and ISO that will yield a shutter speed about equal to a trust lumen level that you know is right. Then using that fixed aperture and ISO, you can measure different lights, and different levels, for shutter speed and the result will give you the lumens output in the reciprocal of the metered shutter speed. 

For example, if you calibrate your meter to the D25As on turbo to 1/125th of a second (instead of F/9 in your test), then your results would yield the following:

SC52 - 1/160 of a second, or 160 lms, or 1/3 stop brighter
D25C - 1/320 of a second, or 320 lms or 1.33 stops brighter

Once calibrated, this will then work all the way up and down the lumen scale, and assuming you have an efficient light bounce (ceiling is not), you can meter down to sub-lumen levels with accuracy - I'm comfortable with accuracy down to 0.10 lumens.

EDIT: Wow, if I have my photography correct f/14 is means twice as bright at f/10... doesn't the SC52 and D25C have the same max output around 280?


----------



## TweakMDS

I'll have to redo those tests in ev mode, because there was some light pollution and in the f-stop mode it rounds down to 1/3rd stops. Not a huge problem since that is already quite precise, but harder to calculate. The ev modes convert directly to lumens once I take a point of calibration, perhaps the Fenix e11 would be nice for that.

And yes, the d25c is a whole lot brighter than the sc52, with both on lithium primaries anyway...

edit: if anyone is interested, I'm measuring with a sekonic l-308s. It has a feature to measure exposure value which works in 1/10th "stops" and ranges from 0 ev (i guess low low moonlight) to about the intensity of a nuclear blast. You can't directly measure lumens, but with a set value (known amount of a certain output) you can get Very close. Of course I do have to rely on a diffusion area. Ceiling bounce is not really good enough, but my bathroom is small enough so that shining a light in the corner takes any amount of flood or throw out of the equation.
(sekonic manual here, see page 19 for lux numbers: http://www.sekonic.com/downloads/L-308S_English.pdf since I'm not measuring throw on these lights, I use the lux metering but with the dome diffuser.)
To get the exact values, I'll rely on people like self built to provide their excellent numbers for us.


----------



## RobME

Decided to keep only neutral & HCRI lights in my small collection. No more CW for me. Sent my 2012 D25C Ti Clicky out to be modded. It was born with an XML U2 Cool White emitter. It's been reincarnated as an XM-L2, 5000K Neutral White. What a difference an LED makes! I have no idea of the lumen output now (using primaries), but it's considerably brighter and whiter than the stock XML U2 NW in my other (non-ti) D25C. This is a fine light for this new LED, just in case anyone's interested.


----------



## reppans

Fireclaw18 said:


> Yes, the SC52 definitely has more modes. I have the 2013 D25a XPG2 cool white and the SC52.
> 
> Comparing the SC52 on 840 Mah Zebralight brand 14500 to my 2013 Ti D25a on AW IMR 14500 I notice the following:
> 1. The SC52's low is much lower than the D25a's low. The SC52 has actual moonlight mode. The D25a just has a standard low and no moonlight.



Fireclaw, I think I read somewhere that you have a 2012 D25A Clicky with XML in NW... could you do a visual and compare moonlight and low with the SC52? I'm trying to determine if my SC52 is defective on all its L modes. 

I've measured the D25A low to be Group1 - 0.30 lms, and Group2 - 2.5 lms and so should be about equal to the SC52s 0.34 and 2.7 lumens, but my SC is in the 1/3 to 1/2 range of the D25A low modes.


----------



## Fireclaw18

reppans said:


> Fireclaw, I think I read somewhere that you have a 2012 D25A Clicky with XML in NW... could you do a visual and compare moonlight and low with the SC52? I'm trying to determine if my SC52 is defective on all its L modes.
> 
> I've measured the D25A low to be Group1 - 0.30 lms, and Group2 - 2.5 lms and so should be about equal to the SC52s 0.34 and 2.7 lumens, but my SC is in the 1/3 to 1/2 range of the D25A low modes.



I just compared the low on my 2012 D25a running on Energizer primary to my SC52 running on 14500. I used the 2 pre-programmed stock low modes on the SC52 and did not attempt to access the additional optional ultra-low mode.

The D25a's low is significantly brighter than the SC52's stock moonlight mode. When I double-click the SC52 from low to get to the other low mode, that low mode is then noticeably brighter than the D25a's low.

The D25a only has low. It has no moonlight mode. However, the moonlight mode on my 2012 D25c XML on IMR 16340 looks about the same brightness as the stock moonlight mode on my SC52.


----------



## cave dave

Back in Post #190 of this thread I posted some rough lumen estimates of the 2012 D25A Ti model I owned so I will do the same for the 2013 model.

Here are my very rough estimates of the lumen values on the various settings:

Approx lumen values for the *2013 Ti D25A clicky XP-G Neutral White*

*-On NIMH eneloop*
Moonlight Group:
Low: ~ 0.4 lm
Med: ~ 8 lm
High: ~ 80 lm
Turbo: ~ 130 lm

Normal group:
Low: ~ 0.8 lm
Med: ~ 18 lm
High: ~ 90 lm
Turbo: ~ 130 lm

*-On AW 14500 LiIon *
Moonlight Group:
Low: ~ 4.5 lm
Med: ~ 130 lm
High: ~ 400 lm
Turbo: ~ 400 lm

Normal group:
Low: ~ 9 lm
Med: ~ 130 lm
High: ~ 400 lm
Turbo: ~ 400 lm


----------



## reppans

Fireclaw18 said:


> The D25a's low is significantly brighter than the SC52's stock moonlight mode. When I double-click the SC52 from low to get to the other low mode, that low mode is then noticeably brighter than the D25a's low.
> 
> The D25a only has low. It has no moonlight mode.



Thank, appreciate that, but it sounds strange. Your observations would mirror mine if my D25 were set to moonlight (and yes, it is a bright "moonlight")..... substantially brighter than the SC52 0.34 level and substantial dimmer than the SC52 2.7 level. Don't know if you have one, but my D25A ML/L are a near perfect match to the 0.3/2.7 modes on a Quark AA2 XML. Do you have any other moonlight lights? - my SC52 0.34 ML is a little dimmer than my Thrunite T10 firefly.

My 2012 D25A Ti NW XML has the following levels, which I will superimpose on cave dave's post and are very close to his numbers. 

For the record, all my numbers were all determined based upon using my DSLR as an ambient light meter, calibrated in the method I describe a few posts above, to the D25A on turbo to 1/125th of a second in the DSLR.



cave dave said:


> Approx lumen values for the 2013 Ti D25A clicky XP-G Neutral White/*2012 D25A Ti NW XML*
> 
> *-On NIMH eneloop*
> Moonlight Group:
> Low: ~ 0.4 lm *0.3*
> Med: ~ 8 lm *6*
> High: ~ 80 lm *80*
> Turbo: ~ 130 lm *125*
> 
> Normal group:
> Low: ~ 0.8 lm *2.5*
> Med: ~ 18 lm *15*
> High: ~ 90 lm *80*
> Turbo: ~ 130 lm *125*
> 
> *-On AW 14500 LiIon *
> Moonlight Group:
> Low: ~ 4.5 lm *8*
> Med: ~ 130 lm *400*
> High: ~ 400 lm *400*
> Turbo: ~ 400 lm *400*
> 
> Normal group:
> Low: ~ 9 lm *400*
> Med: ~ 130 lm *400*
> High: ~ 400 lm *400*
> Turbo: ~ 400 lm *400*



Thanks cave dave, great info, are your estimates by eye? and what did you use for comparison lights?


----------



## shelm

cave dave said:


> Here are my very rough estimates of the lumen values on the various settings:
> 
> Approx lumen values for the *2013 Ti D25A clicky XP-G Neutral White*



Thanks for the numbers!
Werent you the one who said that you got a *XP-G2 Neutral White*?
Now you're writing XP-G Neutral White. :candle:

Most dealers stock the XM-L like LightJunction:


----------



## cave dave

shelm said:


> Thanks for the numbers!
> Werent you the one who said that you got a *XP-G2 Neutral White*?
> Now you're writing XP-G Neutral White. :candle:



The light I ordered had XP-G2 NW advertised but I am not sure that is what I actually received or if such a thing exists. The "2" part on the box was actually crossed out with what looks like a silver sharpie. Back in 2012 when I bought the previous Ti special edition I would have preferred a XP-G but only XM-L was available in the Titanium. So I was excited when this option came out for the 2013 edition.


----------



## cave dave

reppans said:


> Thanks cave dave, great info, are your estimates by eye? and what did you use for comparison lights?



My *very rough *estimates are by eye using a ceiling bounce in a walk in closet. Values below 100 are determined by comparison with a HDS 100 cri. Above 100 and I use a variety of other lights. I think the accuracy above 10 lm is probably +/- 25%. Below 10 lm I would say the accuracy might be +/- 100%


----------



## reppans

Eagletac vs Zebralight Efficiency

Just finished a runtime test between my SC52 and my 2012 D25A Clicky NW XML on freshly charged Eneloops. I used the SC52's 108 lm mode, spec'd at 3 hrs, against the D25A's 75 lm mode, spec'd at 2.5 hrs, since both measure at an even 80 lumens by my DSLR (note the difference in manufacturer lumen scales is consistent with Selfbuilt's reviews of other lights by these manufacturers, eg D25 clickies & SC51).

80 Lumens To 50% output:
D25A - 2 hrs and 20 mins.
SC52 - 2 hrs and 28 mins.

On moonlight efficiency - ZL specs 0.34 lms for 504 hrs while ET specs 0.5 lms for 150hrs. Well, by my DSLR measurements the actual lumens are:
D25A - 0.33 lms
SC52 - 0.10 lms

The D25A moonlight meters the same lumens as my Quark AAX, and I've tested that in the 150-200 hr range before so I believe ET's 150 (I've also tested the QAAX/D25A on low and found them equally efficient). I also believe ZL's 504 hrs (I've tested my H51w moonlight mode) and can see how 1/3rd the lumens should yield 3x the runtime.

Also ran another side-by-side output/runtime test between the QAAX and SC52 on Max, but I guess those results belong on another thread. Did you know that, except for one single mode, the SC52's specs better the Quark AA2X specs AND 4 out of 5 modes are listed as near perfect lumen matches? I sure hope Selfbuilt includes a QAA2X in the comparison graphs and charts when he gets around to testing the SC52.


----------



## TweakMDS

Very impressive score for both. IIRC, ZebraLight tests their lights with 2700mAh NiMH batteries (lacking the low self discharge properties that make us all choose eneloops).

Extrapolating your results to 2700mAh's and assuming that your eneloops are 2000mAh, that actually increases the specced runtime to 3 hours and 20 minutes, if my tuesday morning math makes any sense... Probably not.

Eitherway, very good to see both lights are behaving in the ballpark of the specs. I think manufacturers now realize it's not only pointless to exaggerate in their specs, but it'll make them lose credibility with the flashlight crowd.


----------



## reppans

ZL states they use 2000 mah Eneloop.

Agree the tested runtimes are close enough - the different lumen scales are bothersome though, but let's just write that off as excessive conservatism on the part of certain manufacturers. Selfbuilt's tests also show the same, but who's to define which is the right scale - I know if I were in SB's shoes, I would also use a very liberal scale since it is far easier to give good, and great, news than it is to give any bad news.

Using 1/3 the spec'd lumens to produce 3x the runtime does not fall within spec, at least in my book.

Your own tests above, show the SC52 as only 33% brighter than a D25 when it should be 133% brighter by the specs, and a D25C as 100% brighter than a SC52 when it should be equal. These cannot be explained by conservative lumen scales.

I don't see ZL losing any credibility for exaggerating specs (IMHO), particularly since someone like you, who understands light, exposure, how to use a camera/ambient light meter, how interpret the difference between F/9, F/10 and F/14, and has metered them with his own hand, still believes the light to be behaving within the ballpark of its specs.

What am I missing???


----------



## TweakMDS

I'll finish up my proper measurements before drawing any conclusions, but in my comment above, I was talking about meeting the ballpark specs in runtime. 

In ZL's defense - because I'm leaning towards your conclusion on my earlier numbers that the ZL should be 2/3 or more "stops" higher than the ET - the SC52 has a lot of flood in it's beam profile (more than the D25A XM-L in my eye), and that tends to affect the beam negatively if you measure it with a ceiling bounce. 

The D25A XM-L U2 should be measurably brighter than the XP-G2 and XP-G S2, but they metered the same on a ceiling/corner bounce (or within 1/3rd stop).
These pre-conclusions hampered my tests so I've been working on a better test that resembles a light spere but is more portable.

More later, my household duties call >:[


----------



## reppans

For the record, I do measure my SC52 a solid 2/3rds stops brighter than my D25A, and solid 1/3rd stop brighter than my QAAX. Still, by the numbers, the SC52 should be ~ 4/3rds brighter, but lets just write 1/3 off due to conservative lumen scale differences. Or, I think the SC52 should be 1/3rd stop dimmer than your D25C... no?

BTW, I've found a horizontal wall bounce, between two close walls (hallway ~ 4' apart) to more accurate and with less light loss allowing you measure sub-lumen much more accurately. Also found matching total beam size (spill and hotspot), and all contained within an 8.5"x11" paper size, will adequately equalize the flood/throw differences. HERE is my bounce method, FWIW.

Looking forward to your results.


----------



## shelm

reppans said:


> Looking forward to your results. For the record, I do measure my SC52 a solid 2/3rds brighter than my D25



Are you saying that, taking Eagletac as reference,
D25A = 100% brightness
SC52 = 166.6% brightness

?

:duh2:


----------



## reppans

shelm said:


> Are you saying that, taking Eagletac as reference,
> D25A = 100% brightness
> SC52 = 166.6% brightness
> 
> ?
> 
> :duh2:



Sorry Shelm, I accidentally hit send and needed to edit my post.

But yes, more or less - although 1/3rd stop increments actually move by 25-33%. If you recall in my first review, I calibrated the camera to the D25's 125 lms, and then measured my Quark to be 160 lumens (1/3rd higher) and the SC52 to be 200 lms (2/3rds higher) and sometimes got proper exposures at both 200 and 250, indicating that it's sitting right on the line in between those levels, or 225 lumens. If you also recall, I said the extra 25 lumen disappears in a minute or two as an ultra-freshly charged Eneloop drops to say 1.4V and below. (BTW, 225 lumens adjust by a 1/3 stop "conservatism" factor, would translate just about right to 280 lumens on a liberal Selfbuilt scale).

I could not reproduce the 225 lumens last night, but SC did consistently hold a solid 1/3 stop brighter than my Quark throughout my max level runtime test... but at the end, the Quark effectively gained half that lumen difference (say 1/6th) back through a longer runtime. So from an pure efficiency point of view, the SC52 seems about 15% more efficient than the Quark (on max) and equally as efficient as the D25 (on high). 

Don't get me wrong folks, I've said it before and I'll say it again.. the SC52 is the best AA/14500 I've ever tested (brightest, with great build quality, efficiency, features, size and UI), but, I think ZLs corporate policies bring the product down only to average (for me) with over exaggerated specs, and lousy warranty combine with what seems to be poor CS and questionable reliability (based on polls). 

The exaggerated specs thing gets under my skin though.... I've had far more QC problems with my D25s, posted on this very thread, but for some reason they don't bother me... perhaps because they seem to be isolated instances. Bad specs show the integrity of the company and means every product is defective to me.


----------



## Fireclaw18

Rather than trying to check brightness using your camera which limits you to 25-33% increments, perhaps it might be more accurate if you invest in a lux meter that allows much more precise measurement. Lux meters only cost around $30 or so.


----------



## reppans

Not a bad idea Fireclaw, although I know nothing about them or how they work. Tweak's model sounds good with the ability to measure 1/10th stops, but his is over $200... do you think a $30 version will also do 1/10ths accurately? 

The pricing of these things is all over the map with mid-priced being in the $200-400 range.....I don't want a "Ultrafire" equivalent.


----------



## TweakMDS

Mine's actually the more "budget" model of a flash/lightmeter, with all sorts of awesome abilities like balancing ambient and flash exposures, and auto-triggering (waiting for a flash to pop). 
I bought it to use with manual flashes in studio settings (next photoshoot in 2 weeks) because a DSLR can't meter manual flash exposure...

Eitherway, it's quite overkill for a simple lux meter because a lux meter effectively only needs to be a photosensitive cell with some circuitry around it. Circuits that don't depend on temperature and moisture, calibration options, fancy UI's, branding etc raise these devices in price from the few dollars in hardware to hundreds. Especially for only a comparison between multiple lights with one picked as a baseline, it doesn't need to be all that fancy. I wouldn't be surprised if there's simple USB options to be found for ~10 or so to get the same effect.

That said, a light meter can be an awesome toy to use for this purpose as well because the light intensity range it can meter surpasses a dslr and it's more precise. But for that same $200, I think you can get better hardware to properly measure flashlight output.
One thing I'm still interested in buying is a color meter (like this one: http://www.sekonic.com/Products/C-500/Overview.aspx), but I need a project to justify it (edit: a very big project, and even then rent it...).


----------



## Fireclaw18

My D25c 2013 edition Ti with XML just arrived.

The bezel is removable on this one. Looks like a standard 16 mm star should fit. Time to buy some XM-L2s and try my hand at reflow soldering. Anyone know what melting point solder paste to use?


----------



## shq_luvlights

I couldnt stand it anymore. Im buying one. I think I'm gonna go the D25A. Gosh I love Eagletac flashlight. They're so beautiful!


----------



## rookiedaddy

just to share 2 pics of the low and med mode PWM-like effect...

low mode






med mode





image snap-shot from video-capture. no visible PWM on moon-mode (not shown)


----------



## rjking

rjking said:


> Purchased 22nd of December 2012.
> 
> This waiting game is making me crazy. :shakehead



GOOD NEWS! Finally received it after 17 days. the BAD NEWS, I was slapped with an £18.35 VAT and £8.32 Royal Mail International service. WTF?

The 2013 D25A Ti has a similar output with my 2012 D25A Clicky except for the low or moonlight mode where the 2013 is much much lower. They both have the same XML-U2 emitter cool white. I also have the pre-flash on the D25A Ti 2013.

The 2013 D25C Ti CW is nice with floody beam and a smooth merging of hotspot and spill. Wished I had an XP-G2 to compare but for now, this will do me.


By the way guys, is eneloop good for winter?


----------



## TweakMDS

rjking said:


> GOOD NEWS! Finally received it after 17 days. the BAD NEWS, I was slapped with an £18.35 VAT and £8.32 Royal Mail International service. WTF?
> 
> The 2013 D25A Ti has a similar output with my 2012 D25A Clicky except for the low or moonlight mode where the 2013 is much much lower. They both have the same XML-U2 emitter cool white. I also have the pre-flash on the D25A Ti 2013.
> 
> The 2013 D25C Ti CW is nice with floody beam and a smooth merging of hotspot and spill. Wished I had an XP-G2 to compare but for now, this will do me.
> 
> 
> By the way guys, is eneloop good for winter?



It depends, if you leave it in the car at -5 degrees celcius, you'll be able to use it (I was this morning), but if your idea of winter is -60 degrees celcius, you may want to consider getting some energizer lithium primaries. That's what I usually have in the lights that I'm not edc-ing anyway. Never failed me.


----------



## rjking

Thanks. Should be fine then. :thumbsup:


----------



## rewdee

Hi, can anyone recommend a replacement boot for the D25a clicky? I dont like the feel of the stock boot. Not sure how to describe it; lack of fullness?

Also, how difficult is it to change the boot?

Thanks.


----------



## Dubois

Getting the tail off is, apparently, hard work - having read about it here I haven't even tried unscrewing it.


----------



## reppans

Hmmm, you might have a tough time with that. It is one of the narrowest diameter clickies I've heard of (ie, hard to find small boot), and the tailcap, least on the 2012, is glued/Loctite pretty solid. Also saw a post or two, mentioned the clicky guts spill when you open the tailcap, and so appears not to have a traditional retaining ring, as most removal tail caps do.


----------



## rewdee

Thanks. I guess i have to live with the stock boot, rather than mess things up.


----------



## shelm

reppans said:


> Hmmm, you might have a tough time with that. It is one of the narrowest diameter clickies I've heard of (ie, hard to find small boot), and the tailcap, least on the 2012, is glued/Loctite pretty solid. Also saw a post or two, mentioned the clicky guts spill when you open the tailcap, and so appears not to have a traditional retaining ring, as most removal tail caps do.



it'd be misinfo to think that the tailcaps (2011, 2012, 2013) are glued/loctite in any way. they arent. i can confirm this and Eagletac too. 
what does happen when the o-ring is superlubed by the user is that the o-ring leaves its groove when the tailcap is screwed back on because of the slighty crooked position of the screwing parts because of the pocket clip. with the o-ring out of its place, the friction between the parts is increased and it becomes impossible to fully screw the tailcap back on. likewise it becomes difficult to unscrew the tailcap.

the o-ring is so thin and its dedicated groove so small that during fast factory assembly and even without superlube the o-ring gets partly moved out of its place and stuck between the screwing titanium parts. the problem is caused by the tension and crooking through the pocket clip. if the user were able to remove the pocket clip, then all screwing/unscrewing/o-ring problems would be gone. HighlanderNorth was the first to make the observation and he documented it at several instances incl his own thread.

the tail assembly is the rubber boot, a thin metal ring for stabilization but not spacing purposes, a high quality clicky, and the titanium tailcap itself with the attached pocket clip. anyone who frequently unscrews the tailcap for whatever reason is advised to get a free custom sized allen key from Eagletac dealer (illuminationgear). basically, reppans, for you it is mandatory to remove the pocket clip before you twist the tailcap because there is tension in the threads caused by the pocket clip. with superlube oil in that tiny gap you could remove the tailcap without tearing the o-ring apart .. but it's better to release the tension in the threads completely: the pocket clip needs to detached first!


----------



## reppans

Shelm..... how's your memory there, buddy? 

Please re-read posts #351 through #355 on this thread.



Oh yeah, and about this question...



shelm said:


> Are you saying that, taking Eagletac as reference,
> D25A = 100% brightness
> SC52 = 166.6% brightness
> 
> ?
> 
> :duh2:



Please re-read posts #942 - #944 of the SC52 thread you started.


Here ya go, this is for you....... CLICKY. 

;-)


----------



## shelm

Mwuahaha :thumbsup:

Okok, looks like we were talking about the same stuff months ago and i suggested the same solution: a working allen key.
Well, once the pocket clip is detached, with strong hands *and *rubber gloves *and *drops of supralube oil in the gap (btw, my unit doesnt have a gap at the tail) it will be possible to unscrew and disassemble the tail.

So how's your hand power? :nana:

Anyway, never mind .. if it's okay for you to leave the o-ring squished between the titanium parts.


----------



## reppans

LOL.... touché !

(but, former rock climber.... so not too bad)


----------



## djozz

Received a neutral 2013 D25A ti clicky with XPG-led a few days ago from Illumination Gear and had some discussion about it with customer service. The website, shopping basket and order confirmation mentioned the led to be XPG2 (neutral), the light I received had an old generation neutral XPG (green backing) in it. Although the customer service was very friendly it took a few exchanged mails to explain that it was really not the labeling on the package I was worried about but that the actual led in the light was the wrong one. They had not noticed that before I told them that, and all other neutrals in the 2013 Ti edition also appeared to contain 'old' XPG's (the cool whites were indeed XPG2), while they really ordered (different from other sellers they told me) XPG2 neutrals from EagleTac. Although I would not have ordered the light if I knew that it had an 'old generation' led I settled for a discount because it just is a nice light to have. The discount was not exactly great: 7.50 dollars. At least they promised to correct the information in the shopping basket on the website (but not on the webpage itself).

Oh, by the way: the clicky screws open easily in my light, no glue whatsoever.


----------



## TweakMDS

I didn't know there was a 2013 model with the normal XP-G.

Are you sure you have the 2013 model and not the 2012 model? Differences are relatively easy to spot between them, the 2013 has brass inside it, better threading, slight gap, and slightly different knurling pattern.


----------



## rewdee

Thanks. I managed to unscrew the tail-cap after removing the clip. It unscrew without much force needed. Now looking for a suitable replacement boot 



shelm said:


> it'd be misinfo to think that the tailcaps (2011, 2012, 2013) are glued/loctite in any way. they arent. i can confirm this and Eagletac too.
> what does happen when the o-ring is superlubed by the user is that the o-ring leaves its groove when the tailcap is screwed back on because of the slighty crooked position of the screwing parts because of the pocket clip. with the o-ring out of its place, the friction between the parts is increased and it becomes impossible to fully screw the tailcap back on. likewise it becomes difficult to unscrew the tailcap.
> 
> the o-ring is so thin and its dedicated groove so small that during fast factory assembly and even without superlube the o-ring gets partly moved out of its place and stuck between the screwing titanium parts. the problem is caused by the tension and crooking through the pocket clip. if the user were able to remove the pocket clip, then all screwing/unscrewing/o-ring problems would be gone. HighlanderNorth was the first to make the observation and he documented it at several instances incl his own thread.
> 
> the tail assembly is the rubber boot, a thin metal ring for stabilization but not spacing purposes, a high quality clicky, and the titanium tailcap itself with the attached pocket clip. anyone who frequently unscrews the tailcap for whatever reason is advised to get a free custom sized allen key from Eagletac dealer (illuminationgear). basically, reppans, for you it is mandatory to remove the pocket clip before you twist the tailcap because there is tension in the threads caused by the pocket clip. with superlube oil in that tiny gap you could remove the tailcap without tearing the o-ring apart .. but it's better to release the tension in the threads completely: the pocket clip needs to detached first!


----------



## djozz

TweakMDS said:


> I didn't know there was a 2013 model with the normal XP-G.
> 
> Are you sure you have the 2013 model and not the 2012 model? Differences are relatively easy to spot between them, the 2013 has brass inside it, better threading, slight gap, and slightly different knurling pattern.



It is the 2013 model alright. They sell a xpg version at Ill.Gear but also elsewhere. Nice is that the modes do work now with 14500's. Also noticed that all lower modes show pwm but moonlight seems current controlled; no trace of pwm with also the light colour a bit more to the yellow side.


----------



## shelm

djozz said:


> while they really ordered (different from other sellers they told me) XPG2 neutrals from EagleTac


example: you can order as many XM-L2 Ti's as you wish from Eagletac factory but the factory will send only what _really _exists in their production line: XP-G2 R5 coolwhite, and XP-G (r4?) neutralwhite and the 1st gen XM-L's. the last time i checked with ET they didnt list any "Ti XP-*G2* *NW*" so if a dealer says that he ordered XM-L2 Ti's then he is either telling stories or he submitted a wrong order or he is simply §$%&! 

Clearly, the dealer sent you wrong merchandise. This is poor.




and wont change the info on the webpage itself?? .. vely good bait and switch tactics! lovecpf


----------



## simbad

I've received a D25C Ti XML U2 on last friday, last gen 2013 model. The machining, threads, switch, bezel tightness (not too loose not too tight) and finish is 9 to 10 level, no PWM at all but the spill is a bit purple on low level against a close white wall. Probably I should choose the XP-G NW version.


----------



## djozz

shelm said:


> djozz feel free to contact ET CSR at salesATeagletacDOTcom to ask if they do offer Ti XP-G2 NW's. then we know for sure if someone is bull**i**i** you.



I'm ok the way it is now, I am pretty sure E.T. has't made any Ti XP-G2 neutrals as yet (which is a shame actually, since the XP-G2 NW's are on market for months already, you would expect EagleTac to put them at least in the premium 2013 limited edition), Illumination Gear should have been more honest/observant about the flashlights they sell, and I am allright just posting about my experience with Ill.Gear here at CPF .


----------



## rjking

simbad said:


> I've received a D25C Ti XML U2 on last friday, last gen 2013 model. The machining, threads, switch, bezel tightness (not too loose not too tight) and finish is 9 to 10 level, no PWM at all but the spill is a bit purple on low level against a close white wall. Probably I should choose the XP-G NW version.



Now that you mentioned it, I noticed mine does as well.


----------



## simbad

Even if it's only noticeable very close to a wall it's a bit strange because the hotspot is completely white. Since the earier leds like Luxeon 1W, 3W and 5W and after nearly 10 years we're still playing with the tint lottery


----------



## Jimbo75

simbad said:


> I've received a D25C Ti XML U2 on last friday, last gen 2013 model. The machining, threads, switch, bezel tightness (not too loose not too tight) and finish is 9 to 10 level, no PWM at all but the spill is a bit purple on low level against a close white wall. Probably I should choose the XP-G NW version.





rjking said:


> Now that you mentioned it, I noticed mine does as well.




Both my Ti 2013 neutral white D25C and D25A have a slight purple spill against a white wall, so don't worry about the choice you made.


----------



## simbad

Jimbo75 said:


> Both my Ti 2013 neutral white D25C and D25A have a slight purple spill against a white wall, so don't worry about the choice you made.



I can live with that but its good to know anyway, thanks.


----------



## SCEMan

How many are primarily using 14500 in their 2013 D25A Ti XP-G2? If so, how quickly does it heat up on Turbo/High and how long do you run it that way? Any heat-related concerns?

I have a 2012 D25A Ti I just picked up at a bargain on CPM and use Eneloops to keep the low moonlight.


----------



## Fireclaw18

SCEMan said:


> How many are primarily using 14500 in their 2013 D25A Ti XP-G2? If so, how quickly does it heat up on Turbo/High and how long do you run it that way? Any heat-related concerns?
> 
> I have a 2012 D25A Ti I just picked up at a bargain on CPM and use Eneloops to keep the low moonlight.



Running mine exclusively on IMR 14500. It heats up fast on IMR. On high, I'd estimate maybe 1 minute bursts maximum. However it stays cool enough on medium to run for extended periods.

Low also works fine. Note however, that regardless of battery type, the 2013 D25a is like that 2012 D25a... neither of them has moonlight mode on any battery type.


----------



## SCEMan

Fireclaw18 said:


> Note however, that regardless of battery type, the 2013 D25a is like that 2012 D25a... neither of them has moonlight mode on any battery type.



Hmmmm :thinking:. 
My 2012 D25A Ti XM-L has moonlight with Eneloop. Just a tad lower than the moonlight on my Quark AA2 ​X. On a 14500 it's brighter but still lower than low on NiMh.


----------



## Kingfisher

Can anybody tell me if it's only the latest 2013 models that have the glow in dark tail switch?


----------



## reppans

SCEMan said:


> Hmmmm :thinking:.
> My 2012 D25A Ti XM-L has moonlight with Eneloop. Just a tad lower than the moonlight on my Quark AA2 ​X. On a 14500 it's brighter but still lower than low on NiHm.



+1... I measure my 2012 NW XML to be 0.3 lumens, the same as the QAAX. On a NiMh its Grp1: 0.3/6/75 and Grp2: 2.5/15/75. On a 14500, I measured 8/400 lms.

Kingfisher, the 2012 also has the GITD clicky.


----------



## TweakMDS

After two weeks of not finding time to set this up properly, or not having the time to complete it, I was finally able to do a controlled test / comparison of a few interesting lights:

- The 2012 Eagletac D25A Clicky Ti XM-L in cool white.
- The 2013 Eagletac D25A Clicky Ti XP-G2 in cool white.
- The 2012 Eagletac D25C Clicky Ti XM-L in neutral white.
- The Zebralight SC52

Testing this was quite a bit more complex than I thought. I wanted to eliminate ceiling bounce methods completely, as my earlier tests favored throw over flood.
So, I dug into my photo bag and made the following setup: 

I attached a flash diffuser into a mini softbox. The mini softbox is white on the inside, and it's surface area is completely and evenly illumunated although you can see through it a bit and detect the source of light. I used my lux meter to judge the output, and it seemed to completely redistribute any possible beam pattern, which is exactly what I was after.
Finally, I stuck all the lights in there in turns, with velcro around them to eliminate any possible bounce-back and performed my tests on a dark gray closet board. Measurements was taken with the EV measurement (lux/ftCd meter) of a Sekonic L308S at a distance of roughly 20 cm and around 10 degrees off the center of the softbox. 

The numbers I got from my light meter are in EV value. To explain how exact this is, a modern DSLR will meter in 1/3rd f-stops, which is near the minimum difference our eyes will detect in low light. This EV measurement measures the same number in absolutes, but does so in 1/10th accuracy. The EV-value is basically a very precise measurement that can be converted to foot-candle and lux, but without a surface definition with a beam applied to it, it can't be converted to lumens directly (that's like measuring the volume of an unknown shaped 3d object with a piece of string).
However, since I eliminated the beam pattern, I'm taking the assumption that I can establish the right lux to lumens conversion by establishing a surface area. In this case, 0.30 meter squared seemed about right. Remember, this is about *relative *brightness between the lights, not absolute numbers. It's absolutely pointless to compare these numbers to any other lumens measurements.
All that said; I believe these numbers are awefully close to what our pro-reviewers might find if they measure them.


*Light**EV measurement**Lux conversion**Lumens estimation*Color temperatureControl / ambient light_E.u (below Ev:0)_n/an/a2012 D25A Ti Clicky XM-L CW7.95951792013 D25A Ti Clicky XP-G2 CW7.64851462012 D25C Ti Clicky XM-L NW8.71038311Zebralight SC528.2735220




A few notes: 
- The sekonic L308S is calibrated and accurate up to 0.1EV. Sekonic states a repeatability precision of 0.1EV, but I have not been able to get different readings.
- There was absolutely no ambient light (dark closet). The ambient measurement was below the minimum amount measurable, which would realistically somewhere below 0.01 lumens in this setup.
- All lights ran on fresh lithium primaries (Energizer LR91 and Duracell CR123), these output values may differ from eneloops (as in: higher).
- All measurements were taken on the "Turbo"-mode: immediately after turning on.

Later today I hope to be able to finish up the measurements of color temperature.


----------



## shelm

TweakMDS said:


> these output values may differ from eneloops (as in: higher).



Thanks so much for your hard work and time!!
Great measurements, really helpful!
Now we know for sure that the SC52 beats them all by a little margin 

(...)

"higher" on Eneloops, really? Because of the higher current draw?
If Eneloops give a different result and you got the setup already, would it hurt to also..


----------



## TweakMDS

Eneloop output would be lower, but I don't know if it's by the same margin. Unfortunately, I didn't have a full set of eneloops with me.

Edit: FWIW, now that I have the measuring trick down, I can repeat it with the 14500's and 16340 I *just* received (1 minute ago), but those still need an entire charge.


----------



## shelm

cave dave said:


> *-On NIMH eneloop*
> Moonlight Group:
> *Low: ~ 0.4 lm*
> Med: ~ 8 lm
> High: ~ 80 lm
> Turbo: ~ 130 lm
> 
> Normal group:
> *Low: ~ 0.8 lm*
> Med: ~ 18 lm
> High: ~ 90 lm
> Turbo: ~ 130 lm



I do have 2 mode groups on the D25A Clicky 2013 Ti XP-G2 too but they are virtually the same. Only my multimeter measures a difference, e.g. on the identical Alkaline cell:
[email protected] Group: 11mA current draw
[email protected] Group: 13mA current draw

no wonder why my eyes couldnt see a brightness difference lol


----------



## Kingfisher

I just bought a D25C "titanium limited edition" ...it has brass threads on head -does this mean it's a 2013 model?


----------



## Jimbo75

Kingfisher said:


> I just bought a D25C "titanium limited edition" ...it has brass threads on head -does this mean it's a 2013 model?



Yep, that's the 2013 Limited Edition.


----------



## Kingfisher

Thanks Jimbo75, I must get some pics up here.


----------



## djozz

shelm said:


> I do have 2 mode groups on the D25A Clicky 2013 Ti XP-G2 too but they are virtually the same. Only my multimeter measures a difference, e.g. on the identical Alkaline cell:
> [email protected] Group: 11mA current draw
> [email protected] Group: 13mA current draw
> 
> no wonder why my eyes couldnt see a brightness difference lol



And the funny thing is: the lowest setting in the moonlight group shows no PWM and is a bit more yellow, the lowest setting in the normal group does show PWM and is a bit purple :thinking: 
(PWM detection is performed very scientifically by waving the light frantically before my eyes while looking into the led  )

In my light the moonlight low seems at least 2 times less bright than the normal low (should not have a huge effect, but in mine is a different led: NW XPG R4)


----------



## reppans

Tweak, thanks for supplying us that info - it's very interesting. I've never used a light meter, or EV numbers before, but it looks pretty basic with each full integer representing a full stop inclement and the decimals being the 1/10 stop increment. Fortunately, everything with F-stops and lumens is perfectly linear and subject to simple math. I have no idea how you convert EV > lux > lumens though.

I don't know if you had a chance to test all the modes on your D25 (XML) but using your EV numbers, I was wondering if your light meter might yield the following EV's (or at least something reasonably close given sample variations) :
moonlight on: -0.6 > 3.4 > 7.2 turbo 7.9
moonlight off: 2.2 > 4.9 > 7.2 turbo 7.9 

Interesting that you still end up with the SC52 only ~ 1/3stop (0.3 EV) brighter than your XML - I'm wondering if you might have a defective sample. I consistently measuring mine to be ~ 2/3rds stop brighter than my D25 but mines a NW which ET states is 7-10% lower output. Perhaps your 0.3+0.1=0.4 is tipping me into the 2/3rds stop DSLR bucket.

I personally think the "pro-reviewer" will come-up with 280 lms... If I calibrate to the D25A =125 lms I can consistent get 200 lms off the SC52. Then bump it up for the liberal lumen scale used by ZL&Reviewer, and it's there.

Agree a ceiling bounce is not the greatest method, I found bouncing between two close walls to work very well at equalizing floody & throwy beams and have linked a pix in my post #476. 

Anyways, thanks for your efforts.


----------



## TweakMDS

Mr reppans, I've been expecting you in here 

The calculation to get from EV to lux is (2 ^ EV) * 2.5. The lux to lumens formula is linear, but depends on a surface area definition (arbitrarily guesstimated 0.3 m2​ in this case). For a quick conversion between lux and lumens, with the surface area as a constant, you can use the calculators on this site: http://www.compuphase.com/electronics/candela_lumen.htm

As for the D25A XM-L being only 1/3 stop lower than the SC52, it's possible that my use of lithium primaries has complicated matters slightly. 

One possibility is that the Eagletacs came out relatively brighter on lithium primaries. Due to driver differences, the Zebralight could be yielding the same results on NiMH as on lithium, while the eagletac driver actually puts out more on lithium than on NiMH.
I think it's very plausible that the D25A Ti Clicky XP-G2 is actually 170 or 180 lumens or so on lithium primaries so perhaps everything should be scaled up a bit. 

I have a set of new eneloops (or rather, powerex imedions, 2400mAh LSD) so can do a few tests with those to verify that the difference has changed here.

Still, 220 lumens could be a realistic result, because 146 lumens seems realistic for the D25A Clicky Ti XP-G2. I'll add more data when I do more tests. Perhaps I can add a few other lights in it and scale everything up by setting a better point of reference. I also have the D25A XP-G S2 with me now, but I also don't know if there's any "official" numbers for that.

Eitherway I'll try a few more modes on eneloops between the D25A XM-L and XP-G2 and the SC52 to see if the ratio between them differs.


----------



## reppans

Great... if you do get a chance to run the test through again, please consider listing your estimates for all the mode levels assuming there is little incremental work on your side. While everyone always considers max as THE test, knowing the other modes is very helpful (particularly since ET doesn't them all) and also gives us more data to triangulate your results with what we can observe by our eyes (and in my case, my own test results).

Much appreciated.


----------



## Creezy

Hello All, Will a Zebralight ZL584 14500 battery work in this light?


----------



## shq_luvlights

I got my D25A Ti last Wednesday and I manage to play around with it last night. I noticed the head gets warm pretty fast. I was cycling it through different modes and I noticed the head is warm so I try to compare it with my D25C mini twisty and it's not as warm and took a lil longer to get warm too. Is it because of the 2013 built itself or there's something wrong with my light. I'm just using an ordinary Energizer Lithium batteries. Is it because of the brass?

I also notice there's a purplish hue outside the hotspot. I noticed that indoors when I walk through the corridors of my house. It only appear when it gets close to the wall. And I read somewhere that it is evident to other D25A owners of this light too. It didnt really bother me cos when I step away a lil it's gone. 


I really like the tint. I have the XML-U2 CW. And I must say it almost looks like a NW. My PD32UE was just a lil warmer - more yellowish. When they say it doesnt matter if I take the CW or the NW they were right. The CW tint is warm too. It's not a bluish tint like my D25C Mini XPG-S2. Though I really like the throw on that LED. But the XML makes up with the amount of flood. If my dealer here offer the XPG2-R5 maybe I'll take the D25C Ti this time around. Wanna see the difference if it that noticeable. From what I can read from experts here they like this XPG better.


Glow in the dark clicky is cool too. But it fades too fast. Or maybe I need to recharge it or something. Gonna put it under the light. Does the 2012 have the same feature?

I really like it. Feels a lil heavy - gives that premium feel. Does Titanium lights can be polish? U know like stainless steel polish?


----------



## TweakMDS

Regarding the heat of the head, there's two explanations: either the 2013 model produces more heat than your twisty, or it produces a similar amount of heat and transfers the heat to it's shell better. I'm leaning towards the second since there's no good reason to assume that with a similar output and similar efficiency, the 2013 Ti clicky's driver and/or LED would produce more heat. 
I think that what they did is provide better heatsinking and conductivity from the insides of the head to the outside. That'll heat it up faster but also provide better internal "cooling" and increase the lifespan of the driver and LED.


----------



## MojaveMoon07

On turbo do these 2013 editions still have a a time step-down ?

If "yes", is it still a reduction in brightness by 20% ?

And if "yes", in this thread are the lumen estimations for the 2013 editions before or after the time step-down ?

Regarding the 2012 editions, selfbuilt's review _(link)_ says the time step-down occurs a little after 3 mins have passed, while this review _(link)_ said "_After 90 seconds it drops down 20%_"


----------



## rjking

Hi Guys

How long does it take to run down a 14500 on D25a Clicky Ti 2013?


----------



## rjking

rjking said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> How long does it take to run down a 14500 on D25a Clicky Ti 2013?



Looks like no one does yet.


----------



## shelm

just buy it already :kiss:


----------



## rjking

Actually contemplating on it but if I can't justify the usablity or runtime, then, i'll better hang on to my eneloops. :thinking:


----------



## Kingfisher

I'm liking my 2013 D25C Ti so much I want to post some pics:

Silver & Ti





Knurl




Card




Case




Today's Weather




With 4 Sevens satin Ti


----------



## shelm

Thanks Kingfisher for sharing these wonderful photos!! :huh:


rjking said:


> Actually contemplating on it but if I can't justify the usablity or runtime, then, i'll better hang on to my eneloops. :thinking:



I'll do 14500 runtime tests over the weekend (Turbo, Med). 
We're not too keen on knowing the runtime on 14500 Low, are we?


----------



## Creezy

Can anyone tell me if the Zebralight 14500's work in this light? They seem to be a little longer than AW's or Eneloop's. Thanks in advance


----------



## rjking

shelm said:


> Thanks Kingfisher for sharing these wonderful photos!! :huh:
> 
> 
> I'll do 14500 runtime tests over the weekend (Turbo, Med).
> We're not too keen on knowing the runtime on 14500 Low, are we?



Good man. Yeah! forget about the low.


----------



## rjking

shelm said:


> I'll do 14500 runtime tests over the weekend (Turbo, Med).
> We're not too keen on knowing the runtime on 14500 Low, are we?



Did you managed to do the test Shelm?


----------



## djozz

Creezy said:


> Can anyone tell me if the Zebralight 14500's work in this light? They seem to be a little longer than AW's or Eneloop's. Thanks in advance



The longest 14500 I have is a nitecore, it is 5.1 cm, it fits.


----------



## Fireclaw18

Creezy said:


> Can anyone tell me if the Zebralight 14500's work in this light? They seem to be a little longer than AW's or Eneloop's. Thanks in advance



I tried a Zebralight 14500 in my 2013 D25a Ti. The length is fine, but it does *NOT* work. The problem is that Zebralight 14500s have flat tops. The D25a has physical reverse polarity protection in the form of a raised ring around the positive contact at the front of the battery compartment. This ring hits the flat top of the Zebralight 14500 and prevents the positive terminal of the battery from making connection. You need to use a battery that has a small central raised top instead of a flat top.

AW IMR 14500s work great in the 2013 D25a


----------



## shelm

rjking said:


> Did you managed to do the test Shelm?



I re-read the instruction manual, the D25A is not supposed to run on 14500 for longer than ~3 minutes, did you know that? It gets too hot after 10 secs already. Sorry!!



SCEMan said:


> Fireclaw18 said:
> 
> 
> 
> None of my D25a lights have moonlight mode on any battery type (I have 2012 ti, 2012 al, 2013 ti). The only D25s I own with moonlight modes are my 2 D25c lights.
> 
> The 2013 Ti on 14500 has a well-placed low (my guess maybe 5-10 lumens). But nothing remotely approaching what I'd consider a true moonlight mode.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm. My 2012 D25A Ti on Eneloop has a moonlight mode just dimmer than my Quark X AA2's moonlight. Of course on 14500, this turns into a low mode.
Click to expand...


My D25A 2012 Clicky Ti XM-L has 2 distinctive mode groups with Moonlight vs Low. It's not a Firefly but i would definitely call it Moonlight.
My D25A 2013 Clicky Ti XP-G2 has 1 mode group only, seems like. Or in any case the Low-modes in both groups are very similar. One Low has PWM, the other Low doesnt. Both are pretty low on Eneloop and one could call them Moonlight. On 14500 they are real Low's, can't be confused with Moonlight anymore.


----------



## jph

I just got one of these (2013 with XPG2) and I really like it. It will replace my LD15 for edc, however, it looks like the fast mode of SOS is SOI (3 short, 3 long, 2 short). I have had a few beers, and it may just be me. Anyone else notice this?


----------



## GordoJones88

jph said:


> I just got one of these (2013 with XPG2) and I really like it. It will replace my LD15 for edc, however, it looks like the fast mode of SOS is SOI (3 short, 3 long, 2 short). I have had a few beers, and it may just be me. Anyone else notice this?



-. ---


----------



## jph

GordoJones88 said:


> -. ---


lol, must be me.


----------



## bhonder

Hi everybody,

this is my first post. I've got here because I already own a D25A clicky flashlight and I would like to buy one more too for my wife, but I don't know which one.
My actual light is a 2012 standard D25A with neutral white led. I will buy the next one via nkon.nl so I have these choices:
1) Titanium D25A (i guess 2012 version) with XM-L led;
2) Standard D25A with cool white XM-L;
3) Wait for a while and see if a 2013 titanium pops up.

Which one should I choose? Is there a difference between standard and titanium or is just the type of metal used?

We use these flashlights for walking/running so we preferer a larger spot than a narrow, washed out, one. Anyway, we already own a thrower flashlight from Ledlenser and we are fine with that.

Thank you for you attention.


----------



## GordoJones88

bhonder said:


> Hi everybody,
> 
> this is my first post. I've got here because I already own a D25A clicky flashlight and I would like to buy one more too for my wife, but I don't know which one.
> My actual light is a 2012 standard D25A with neutral white led. I will buy the next one via nkon.nl so I have these choices:
> 1) Titanium D25A (i guess 2012 version) with XM-L led;
> 2) Standard D25A with cool white XM-L;
> 3) Wait for a while and see if a 2013 titanium pops up.
> 
> Which one should I choose? Is there a difference between standard and titanium or is just the type of metal used?
> 
> We use these flashlights for walking/running so we preferer a larger spot than a narrow, washed out, one. Anyway, we already own a thrower flashlight from Ledlenser and we are fine with that.
> 
> Thank you for you attention.



Buy them all.


----------



## bhonder

GordoJones88 said:


> Buy them all.



I can choose only one because I already own one in neutral white tint and we need only one more.
Metal alloy apart, is there any notable difference or quality between titanium and standar xm-l cool white led?


----------



## rjking

Looks like nobody's enjoying their EagleTac Clicky D25C T1


----------



## kreisl

rjking said:


> Looks like nobody's enjoying their EagleTac Clicky D25*C* T1



D25*A* Ti is the way to go 
i spent much time on runtime tests and found them highly enjoyable 





I used Eneloop AA (measured 2000mAh) and Trustfire Protected flames 14500 (measured 750..830mAh, depending on the cell sample) for the test runs. Yeah i know, such an extensive table with data and info without any further explanations or explicative details s*cks, so I am posting review details on another forum ..


----------



## Bumble

d25a the way to go ? nah... the reason no-one posts about the d25c 2013 ti is because its on the shelf getting polished eveyday as you dont want to ruin a thing of beauty.. also d25a not fit in my little pocket of my jeans d25c does


----------



## rjking

Spot on!


----------



## shelm

AL85 said:


> I've just received an Eagletac D25A clicky titanium and have found there is a noticeable gap between the head and the body of the light, in which brass (im assuming its brass, its brass coloured at least) is visible. The O ring is still concealed however. I have contacted the seller who was kind enough to check a couple of others he had in stock and indeed they both also had this gap. Apparently one had a larger gap then the other, which shows a lack of consistency in their production. This gap is not shown on the Eagletac website nor any other online store I have found. For me, this sort of spoils the light. Have any of you found or seen anything similar with this particular model or with Eagletac or any of their other products? And am i right to consider this a flaw or is this something to be expected?



please see earlier post #451 
we all have that gap :huh:


----------



## kreisl

rjking said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> How long does it take to run down a 14500 on D25a Clicky Ti 2013?



Today i did continuous runs on 14500-Turbo mode, which is the same as Hi1- or Hi2-modes!, with 3 different 14500 TF flames cells "900mAh nominal" , real capacity between 750-830mAh, and i got similar runtimes (1h1min16s, 1h4m59s, 1h3min40s) until the PCB tripped.

So if your TF flames 14500 has around ~*800mAh* capacity, then *continuous* 14500-Turbo runtime will be around ~*64min*. Runtime is shorter if the torch is operated *intermittently*, for example run in 60sec-intervals the *accumulated *runtime is max. ~*55min*.

I've updated the large table in my earlier post with the added 3 runs on 14500-Turbo.

On 14500-Turbo, the *average *current draw is *899.5mA* in intermittent runs (=830mA*3600/(55*60+22)) or *766.4mA* (=830mA*3600/(64*60+59)) in a continuous run. Consequently, in intermittent runs the light looks brighter than in a continuous run.

We also learn that the *XP-G2* emitter is driven hard on Eneloops (~*2.2A* max on a fresh Eneloop cell) and driven rather conservatively on 14500's (~*1.3A* max on a fresh 14500 cell, average ~0.9A in accumulated runs).

Enjoy the sun day!!


----------



## rjking

In that case. I'll stick to eneloop. :thumbsup:


----------



## cave dave

kreisl,
Awesome table and data. I hadn't checked this thread in a while and your info made it very worthwhile. :thumbsup:


----------



## SCEMan

kreisl said:


> We also learn that the *XP-G2* emitter is driven hard on Eneloops (~*2.2A* max on a fresh Eneloop cell) and driven rather conservatively on 14500's (~*1.3A* max on a fresh 14500 cell, average ~0.9A in accumulated runs).



So if the XP-G2 is driven harder on Eneloops doesn't this mean it would also be brighter (than 14500)? Or am I missing something?


----------



## Dubois

SCEMan said:


> So if the XP-G2 is driven harder on Eneloops doesn't this mean it would also be brighter (than 14500)? Or am I missing something?



Driven hard, not harder, so I'd guess not. Certainly to my eye 14500 max is brighter than eneloop max.


----------



## Fireclaw18

Dubois said:


> Driven hard, not harder, so I'd guess not. Certainly to my eye 14500 max is brighter than eneloop max.



This. My recollection is you count both the voltage and the current.

an 800 mAh 3.7v li-ion cell holds more energy than a 2200 mAh 1.5v cell, because of this voltage difference.

2.2A at 1.5v is actually less power than 1.3A at 3.7v. Consequently the light is actually driven harder and more power is going to the emitter on li-ion than on eneloop.

Been awhile since I've looked at a physics or chem textbook. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## fnj

Fireclaw18 said:


> This. My recollection is you count both the voltage and the current.
> 
> an 800 mAh 3.7v li-ion cell holds more energy than a 2200 mAh 1.5v cell, because of this voltage difference.
> 
> 2.2A at 1.5v is actually less power than 1.3A at 3.7v. Consequently the light is actually driven harder and more power is going to the emitter on li-ion than on eneloop.
> 
> Been awhile since I've looked at a physics or chem textbook. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.



Er, with the figures given, 3.7 V at 0.8 Ah is 2.96 Wh; 1.5 V at 2.2 Ah is 3.3 Wh. In this comparison NiMH would actually be exhibiting more energy. But in real life the voltages are both curves, and 1.5 is too high for even a fully charged NiMH.

Actually, NiMH is closer to 1.1 V average, and LiIon closer to 3.4 V average, and using these figures the LiIon does come out ahead.


----------



## slemmo

Have anyone seen lumen output and runtimes with the 2013 D25C running on LiIons? And would LiFePO4 batteries be a good choice for this light?


----------



## WilsonCQB1911

I can't seem to get a moonlight mode on my D25A Ti. Is this normal for this one? I know the C2 doesn't have one, but my C does.


----------



## american

Moon should be head loosened and click once


----------



## Fireclaw18

WilsonCQB1911 said:


> I can't seem to get a moonlight mode on my D25A Ti. Is this normal for this one? I know the C2 doesn't have one, but my C does.



Same. I have the following D25a lights:

2012 Ti neutral XML neutral
2012 Alu neutral XML neutral
2013 Ti cool white XPG2

None of my D25a lights have any moonlight mode regardless of battery type. However both my D25c lights (2012 Alu XML neutral and 2013 Ti XML CW) have moonlight mode that can be accessed by turning on the light in head loosened mode and then rapidly turning the head to max and back 3x in a row.

This pretty much confirms what the big review said (I think it was Selfbuilt's review), that the D25a does not have a moonlight mode.


----------



## Fireclaw18

american said:


> Moon should be head loosened and click once



That gives you low mode. The D25a does not have a super-low moonlight mode (low enough that you can stare into the emitter at close range while it's on without hurting your eyes).


----------



## reppans

I'm sure I posted this somewhere earlier in this thread but my 2012 D25A Clicky Ti XML NW meters on my DSLR with an Eneloop as:

Moonmode on: 0.3/6/80 and 125
Moonmode off: 2.5/15/80 and 125

I love the mode spacing.


----------



## SCEMan

Fireclaw18 said:


> That gives you low mode. The D25a does not have a super-low moonlight mode (low enough that you can stare into the emitter at close range while it's on without hurting your eyes).



Ditto. On an Eneloop, my 2012 D25A Ti has a moonlight mode slightly dimmer than my Quark AA's.


----------



## Gravediggaz

which one do you guys recommend for the perfect EDC?


----------



## Fireclaw18

SCEMan said:


> Ditto. On an Eneloop, my 2012 D25A Ti has a moonlight mode slightly dimmer than my Quark AA's.



Actually, you could be right. I've never tried running my D25a lights on Eneloop. I've run them on L92 Lithium primaries (1.7v), and 14500 cells (RCR and IMR 3.7v). On the cells I tried there was no moonlight mode.

However, eneloops are even lower voltage than lithium primaries at around 1.2v. At that lower voltage it is possible the D25a gains a moonlight mode that I haven't seen.


----------



## Fireclaw18

Gravediggaz said:


> which one do you guys recommend for the perfect EDC?



I don't think there is such a thing as the perfect EDC. If there were, we wouldn't be flashaholics :duh2:

However, of the ones I've tried, I prefer my 2013 edition D25a Ti with XPG2 CW, and my 2013 edition D25c Ti modded with an XML2 NW.


----------



## GrooveRite

Would anyone has both the D25c XPG2 and an Olight S10 clarify some things for me?! My understanding is that on an RCR123......the D25c has NO regulation whereas the S10 does?! On RCR123......the S10 has 310 Max Lumen while the D25c has a Max Lumen of 550?! 

Just trying to decide on which to pull the trigger on. Thank you!


----------



## shelm

GrooveRite said:


> the S10 has 310 Max Lumen



I am wondering too how many owners would prefer the S10 Ti to the D25C 2013 Ti!
GrooveRite, just this: the S10 is said to have a notable greenish tint whereas the D25C is going to have XM-*L2* CW with 0D/1A tint.

The D25 is quite throwy with XP-*G2* and with beautiful non-greenish tint.


----------



## GrooveRite

shelm said:


> I am wondering too how many owners would prefer the S10 Ti to the D25C 2013 Ti!
> GrooveRite, just this: the S10 is said to have a notable greenish tint whereas the D25C is going to have XM-*L2* CW with 0D/1A tint.
> 
> The D25 is quite throwy with XP-*G2* and with beautiful non-greenish tint.



Thanks for the info Shelm!

Yes, I'm aware of the green tint but don't really think it would bother me considering its regulated with a RCr123. If the D25C was regulated (w/RCR123) as well, it would be a no brainer for me. I also do like the look and styling of the D25C. I may just have to wait for the XM-L2 variant. Not really in a waiting mood unfortunately, lol!


----------



## SCEMan

Fireclaw18 said:


> Actually, you could be right. I've never tried running my D25a lights on Eneloop. I've run them on L92 Lithium primaries (1.7v), and 14500 cells (RCR and IMR 3.7v). On the cells I tried there was no moonlight mode. However, eneloops are even lower voltage than lithium primaries at around 1.2v. At that lower voltage it is possible the D25a gains a moonlight mode that I haven't seen.



On an L92, I no longer have a low moonlight mode, it's considerably brighter.


----------



## cyclesport

Fireclaw18 said:


> I don't think there is such a thing as the perfect EDC. If there were, we wouldn't be flashaholics :duh2:
> 
> However, of the ones I've tried, I prefer my 2013 edition D25a Ti with XPG2 CW, and my 2013 edition D25c Ti modded with an XML2 NW.



I'm quite jealous of your modded D25C w/XM-L2 NW (presumably T6 5000k ?) Ever since I bought one of nailbender's drop-ins with this same LED I've been on the lookout for a nice small production EDC with the XM-L2 5000k tint and am awaiting the release of ET's 2013 D25C with the XM-L2 NW.

I currently have a 2012 D25C with an XM-L U2 and know that heat is a concern beyond 30/45sec w/Li-ions @ max output...do you ever run your modded D25C XM-L2 NW w/16340's?...if so, how is the thermal management? Sounds like a nice light...if you had someone (CPF member?) do the mod for you, can you share that data since I might opt for that mod too? You can PM me if you prefer...Thanks!


----------



## Fireclaw18

cyclesport said:


> I'm quite jealous of your modded D25C w/XM-L2 NW (presumably T6 5000k ?) Ever since I bought one of nailbender's drop-ins with this same LED I've been on the lookout for a nice small production EDC with the XM-L2 5000k tint and am awaiting the release of ET's 2013 D25C with the XM-L2 NW.
> 
> I currently have a 2012 D25C with an XM-L U2 and know that heat is a concern beyond 30/45sec w/Li-ions @ max output...do you ever run your modded D25C XM-L2 NW w/16340's?...if so, how is the thermal management? Sounds like a nice light...if you had someone (CPF member?) do the mod for you, can you share that data since I might opt for that mod too? You can PM me if you prefer...Thanks!



I run all my D25s on AW IMR cells. My D25c Ti is running on 16340 IMR. Heat is an issue especially for Ti. I typically don't run it longer than a minute at max. I'm not sure if it's running direct drive at max like the 2012 edition though. Running with XML2, it's bright, but it's not my brightest XML2 light. My modded Jetbeam RRT-01 with Niteye EYE10 driver and the same emitter is noticeably brighter. And my heavily modded Sipik SK58 running with a 2.8 amp driver is the brightest of all 3. All are using XM-L2 5,000k neutral white emitters from the same source.

I did the emitter swap on the D25 myself. It works, but wasn't a great job. The solder on star wouldn't melt even with my 40w soldering iron directly on it so I had to clip the wires, then attach small scraps of other wires, then solder it all together. Emitter swapping on the RRT-01 was much easier as the solder on the star melted with no issues.


----------



## cyclesport

Fireclaw18 said:


> I run all my D25s on AW IMR cells. My D25c Ti is running on 16340 IMR. Heat is an issue especially for Ti. I typically don't run it longer than a minute at max. I'm not sure if it's running direct drive at max like the 2012 edition though. Running with XML2, it's bright, but it's not my brightest XML2 light. My modded Jetbeam RRT-01 with Niteye EYE10 driver and the same emitter is noticeably brighter. And my heavily modded Sipik SK58 running with a 2.8 amp driver is the brightest of all 3. All are using XM-L2 5,000k neutral white emitters from the same source.
> 
> I did the emitter swap on the D25 myself. It works, but wasn't a great job. The solder on star wouldn't melt even with my 40w soldering iron directly on it so I had to clip the wires, then attach small scraps of other wires, then solder it all together. Emitter swapping on the RRT-01 was much easier as the solder on the star melted with no issues.



Thanks for the info. I too have the RRT-01 and EYE 10 and would love to have the XM-L2 NW in those lights...yours sound great. Sadly, I learned long ago attempting mods myself only results in ruined lights and burned fingers. Maybe someday I can find someone to do an emitter swap for me:shrug:.


----------



## GrooveRite

Are the new XML2 emitters brighter than the XPG2 emitters? I know one is floodier and one is more throw-y-er (sp?)....lol!


----------



## Fireclaw18

GrooveRite said:


> Are the new XML2 emitters brighter than the XPG2 emitters? I know one is floodier and one is more throw-y-er (sp?)....lol!



XPG2 is throwier, but XML2 is substantially brighter.


----------



## TweakMDS

The older XM-L U2 is already brighter than xp-g2, but it depends on what you need. The ANSI distance number for throw is deceptive because it allows for "brute force" throw. By that I mean a 1000 lumen floody light will probably light up an object further away than a 200 lumen tight beam, but to pick out details at a distance, you need that tight beam.
A floody beam will also light up your surroundings and your eyes will adapt to the generally brighter area, making it less than ideal to see the far away object than a tight beam would do.


----------



## GrooveRite

Fireclaw18 said:


> XPG2 is throwier, but XML2 is substantially brighter.



Thanks for the feedback Fireclaw!

So it would be best for me to hold out on getting the D25c Ti XPG2 for the XML2 variant I take it! How much of a difference in brightness and is it more or less efficient than the XPG2?


----------



## GrooveRite

TweakMDS said:


> The older XM-L U2 is already brighter than xp-g2, but it depends on what you need. The ANSI distance number for throw is deceptive because it allows for "brute force" throw. By that I mean a 1000 lumen floody light will probably light up an object further away than a 200 lumen tight beam, but to pick out details at a distance, you need that tight beam.
> A floody beam will also light up your surroundings and your eyes will adapt to the generally brighter area, making it less than ideal to see the far away object than a tight beam would do.



Great info TweakMDS!

Which emitters are more efficient and can be driven harder are the questions that I have left?


----------



## slemmo

Just got my 2013 D25c clicky ti and it doesn't look good. First turned it on with a cr123 primary, led emitter was blinking completely irrationally, so I figured maybe the battery was dead, tried another one and that worked fine, then tried a 16340, that worked fine as well. Then I tried to switch moonlight output, after that the light was extremely low for a couple seconds then died. Now it only turns on for about a second with primaries then goes dead. When i take the primaries out they're really hot. using 16340s doesnt work at all. ¤%&#!!! I was so happy when this showed up in the mailbox and the damn thing doesn't work.

edit: just trying it wit a 16340, doesn't come on when turning the light on, but after soft pressing the switch a number of times it turned on for about a second again then turned off by it self.


----------



## cyclesport

slemmo said:


> Just got my 2013 D25c clicky ti and it doesn't look good. First turned it on with a cr123 primary, led emitter was blinking completely irrationally, so I figured maybe the battery was dead, tried another one and that worked fine, then tried a 16340, that worked fine as well. Then I tried to switch moonlight output, after that the light was exremely low for a couple seconds then died. Now it only turns on for about a second with primaries then goes dead. When i take the primaries out they're really hot. using 16340s doesnt work at all. ¤%&#!!! I was so happy when this showed up in the mailbox and the damn thing doesn't work.
> 
> edit: just trying it wit a 16340, doesn't come on when turning the light on, but after soft pressing the switch a number of times it turned on for about a second again then turned off by it self.



ET sometimes has an occasional glitchy driver upon new product releases...not to worry, your dealer (or ET direct via web contact) should be able to do an uncomplicated exchange. I own a number of the D series lights and had a flickering issue on one initially, promptly handled by Christina (ET'S China Cust Serv rep) and had a new head in a few days...China to the US.


----------



## reppans

cyclesport said:


> ET sometimes has an occasional glitchy driver upon new product releases...not to worry, your dealer (or ET direct via web contact) should be able to do an uncomplicated exchange. I own a number of the D series lights and had a flickering issue on one initially, promptly handled by Christina (ET'S China Cust Serv rep) and had a new head in a few days...China to the US.



Thanks for sharing... I really like ET's long warranty but was concerned about the overseas repair thing, and also wanted to hear CS service reports too (haven't heard much - that's a good thing). Good to hear they stand behind their products.


----------



## cyclesport

^
No prob reppans. Seems there were a few posts around 6mos ago where people were getting ET's D series lights w/loose o-rings, missing lens, etc. and I was a little concerned then, but personally have had no issues in two warr. claims. They will sometimes ask for a video of weird driver behavior though...if the problem isn't widely known by ET.


----------



## slemmo

Thanks, let's see what they have to say. I contacted ET directly.


----------



## WilsonCQB1911

I find the D25A to be a poor cousin to the D25C so far. D25A has no moonlight mode, and preflash in low. Additionally, while it runs on 14500 and is bright, it bumps up the output on all levels, so the low mode becomes completely unusable for me in the middle of the night. I have similar complaints about my D25C2 (non-Ti obviously). The D25C is just a much better light, and really the only one I would keep if I could do it over again.


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

I just wanted to show you guys my D25C Ti Clicky with XM-L T6 LED:













Does anyone know if this is a known issue? 

I'm trying to figure out if I was sold a rejected light perhaps. Eagletac hasn't been very helpful so far & my retailer claims all D25C Ti Clickies have the faulty etching, so I was wondering if anyone here has run in to this before as I already learned from another forum member on another forum that there are infact D25C Ti Clickies that actually say D25C Ti on them.

I also have a problem with my memory mode. It worked fine when I first got it, but it refuses to come back one again after I turned it off. Does that issue get reported often?


----------



## shelm

Kingfisher said:


> Titanium has a great feel/look




you're a show off 
just kidding 

is yours the 2013 edition and does the label say "D25A" although it is the D25C?


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

shelm said:


> you're a show off
> just kidding
> 
> is yours the 2013 edition and does the label say "D25A" although it is the D25C?



Wait, is this a known issue among the 2013 edition, or are you just revering back to my post perhaps?

His is from 2013. The head on the 2012 version looks different (has two rings below the knurling).

But I'm pretty sure I found at least one photo in this thread from a 2013 version that says 'D25C Ti' on it like it should so I'm still suspecting I was sold a fishy one. It came from Nkon.nl btw, & he claims all D25C Ti clickies have D25A Ti' etched on it so I guess it's safe to assume his whole stock is like this.

Eagletac's Christina so far has simply ignored my questions about it. But I'm not to impressed with her knowledge so far anyway, to my question about my non-functioning memory-mode she answered me that it probably still needs some time to burn in





Yet I paid full price for this thing. I want a proper functioning light or my money back darnit!


----------



## WilsonCQB1911

I have a D25C Ti NW 2013 edition and mine says "D25C Ti". So there's a data point for you.


----------



## Pilot

Well, I received my new Eagletac 2013 Titanium, Limited Edition, D25C Clicky. Looks fantastic in TI, nice holster, etc. The only problem is IT DOESN'T WORK.  :scowl:  I installed the CR123A lithium battery, clicked it on and immediately got the strobe, clicked again, and got the turbo. I twisted the head, and went through the different modes which seemed fine for a few cycles, then the light went very dim in every mode, then went totally out. I changed batteries, and again got the dim modes, and it again went out. I initially thought I might have bad batteries so I took one out from another working flashlight, installed it, and the same very dim results occurred. I guess I will be contacting Eagletac Customer Service. Will a replacement head fix this issue? I hope they can just send me one without having to ship back the entire light to China. Very frustrating, and disappointing. Never had this issue with 4sevens, L3, Pelican, nor Surefire.


----------



## slemmo

I had similar problems with mine, but after fiddling with it for a couple days it started working perfectly and I haven't had a problem since. Could be poor contact somewhere and maybe it just needs a bit of twisting and clicking.


----------



## Pilot

slemmo said:


> I had similar problems with mine, but after fiddling with it for a couple days it started working perfectly and I haven't had a problem since. Could be poor contact somewhere and maybe it just needs a bit of twisting and clicking.


 I am going to go out and get another battery, but the ones I have work fine in my other lights. When you say "fiddle" with it, what did you do? Thanks.


----------



## slemmo

Twisting and clicking


----------



## Pilot

slemmo said:


> Twisting and clicking


 Very confidence inspiring. Maybe I should hit it with a mallet.  Is it better to go through the dealer or Eagletac for customer service?


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

WilsonCQB1911 said:


> I have a D25C Ti NW 2013 edition and mine says "D25C Ti". So there's a data point for you.



Thanks for the response, noted :thumbsup:


----------



## Kingfisher

shelm said:


> you're a show off
> just kidding
> 
> is yours the 2013 edition and does the label say "D25A" although it is the D25C?



Yep, it's the 2013 edition - please allow me to show off with another pic  D25C Ti


----------



## GrooveRite

Are the XML2 versions available anywhere yet?


----------



## blackFFM

shelm said:


> cave dave mentioned that his Clicky 2013 Ti would come with a *NEUTRALWHITE xp-g2 wtf*, provided by Illuminationgear. the Eagletac website doesnt mention XP-G2 NW's and i didnt know that Cree released neutral white XP-G2's. I have no idea what color or tint such XP-G2's produce. Again the same warmish 4500K 08:00p.m. sunset light of the T6 NW's? Then no thanks!



I'm confused. Illuminationgear says th have a d25c ti xp-g2 rw nw. When you put it in your cart it says xp-g r4 for nw and xp-g2 for coolwhite. I can't find anything on Eagletac's website that proofs the existence of an neutral white XP-G2 R4 in the d25c *ti*. So does it exist or is it just wrong on Illuminationgear's site?


----------



## shelm

blackFFM said:


> I'm confused. Illuminationgear says th have a d25c ti xp-g2 rw nw. When you put it in your cart it says xp-g r4 for nw and xp-g2 for coolwhite. I can't find anything on Eagletac's website that proofs the existence of an neutral white XP-G2 R4 in the d25c *ti*. So does it exist or is it just wrong on Illuminationgear's site?



i don't have the answer to your question .. just this is funny:

the product page for the 2012 Ti edition lists "XM-L2 U2 LOL". clearly someone at ET, the webmaster, must have done a textual Search&Replace in contents of *.html files lol


----------



## blackFFM

GrooveRite said:


> Are the XML2 versions available anywhere yet?



I saw some at the bay yesterday.


While some here claim that their neutral white Eagletacs have a color temperature around 4500K the box of my D25A clicky says 4300K. It's pretty yellowish for nw.



EDIT:

Anybody else noticed this?

Moonlight on: moon - med - high

Moonlight off: low - med - high

D25A (2012) and D25C (2013) are that way.


----------



## Richard Pearce

*
Eagletac D25C Clicky Ti Blinky modes
*
Hi everyone,

Excuse me being nervous, but this is my first ever post. I'm more suited to being a lurker and reading all the excellent flashlight reviews.

I treated myself to this flashlight, all in shiny titanium with the newer XM-L2 emmitter and am happy to say it operates perfectly apart from one minor niggle.

On the first SOS beacon, the light seems to actually flash out "SMS" instead of "SOS." (Dot-dot-dot, dash-dash, dot-dot-dot.)

Perhaps this is intentional, perhaps it is meant for people who are feeling lonely, who would simply like someone to send an SMS text message to their cell phone? 

I don't suppose it matters much as I can't ever envisage a time where I might rely on signalling for help with my flashlight, and if a time ever did arrive, the fast mode is too fast for anyone to actually read, and the slow mode is so slow most people will have lost interest and looked away before working out what it is saying.

In any case, so far it is an amazing little torch (sorry, flashlight) and I am a very happy bunny. Exceptionally bright, exceptionally small, exceptionally mis-placeable.


----------



## Ned-L

I was thinking about buying the EagleTac D25C Clicky aluminum flashlight for months. I added it to my online shopping cart so many times and then didn't buy it because I really didn't like the fact that it doesn't really/fully support RCR123s. Last Friday while I was passing through Atlanta, I stopped by the GoingGear store to look at the D25C Clicky aluminum in person and ponder yet again whether I wanted to purchase the light. I was ready to leave the store without a new light when I decided to look at the EagleTac website on my iPhone and review their footnotes about using RCR123 cells with the D25C Clicky. I also read the webpage about the D25C Clicky Ti and noticed that it more directly indicated that it supports RCR123A li-ion (direct drive). So I finally purchased the 2013 EagleTac D25C Clicky but the Ti version with the XM-L2 U2. Using an AW RCR123 or an EagleTac RCR123 it appears to support all modes. I love the size, looks, quality/value and operation of this light. I think I can be content with the D25C Clicky Ti as my EDC for a while - recognizing that as a flashaholic "a while" is a very flexible term. Seriously this is a very, very nice light. I am surprised there aren't more posts talking about it.


----------



## shelm

Ned-L said:


> I am surprised there aren't more posts talking about it.



D25A is mentioned often here and on forums, no doubt.
So many peeps have the Clicky Ti already, even several copies of it:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...agleTac-D25-series-Which-model(s)-did-you-buy

There are no probs with the light.
Many posts in the EA4 or D40A thread are because of peeps reporting issues. Or see the Armytek Wizard Pro 1.0 threads. Am wondering if there will be a Clicky Ti 2014 version


----------



## blackFFM

The new versions support 16340s. Both the ti and the black aluminum d25c. Don't know about the black D25A but I guess it now supports 14500s as well.


----------



## DHart

I'm very much enjoying my three D25 models, all acquired within the last couple of months:

• D25A Clicky with XP-G R4 neutral (it is actually a warm-tint, and I love it!)
• D25A Titanium with X-ML T6 neutral (nice light, but in retrospect, I wish I had bought it with the XP-G2 emitter instead)
• D25C Mini with XP-G2 cool white (this thing is a tiny, mini monster... I love it!)

I run the D25A's with 14500 li-ions. And the D25C Mini with an AW IMR 16340 li-ion. Very happy with the performance of these lights.


----------



## shelm

that is interesting, the manufacturer has announced on their facebook site early black friday sales for their USA-maintained store site. Eagletac is an US-American company after all, aren't they?

the d25a clicky Ti 2013 seems sold out on that page but they have some stock left of the d25c clicky ti (cw xp-g2, cw xm-l2, and neutral white xp-g, all the 2013 model), price is around 50 backs, not too shabby.

i don't know about shipping but these are the lowest ET prices i've ever seen. mostly pre-gen emitters, though.


----------



## Onthelightside

Yep couldn't pass up the d25c clicky ti with the XM-L2, great deal... the TX25C2 was $44 for a while which was a killer deal but I saw the price went up to 70 something before they sold out. It will be my first Ti light, looking foreword to it!


----------



## shelm

*2014* Limited Edition based on the 2013 design now shipping to dealers :huh:

















Eagtac Clicky Ti doesn't get old, does it? :tired:

lovecpf​


----------



## blackFFM

:twothumbs

D25A Ti with Nichiia, I saw this in my crystal ball.




The D25A is looking pretty shiny. Maybe they're using a titanium alloy now instead of pure titanium.


----------



## Lithium466

Also with Nichia 219, very nice !
edit: burned


----------



## DHart

These are fantastic lights, whether titanium or aluminum bodied. I have three now and itching for a D25A Nichia.


----------



## cyclesport

Great news! Who would have imagined a few years ago a small high-quality (production) Ti clicky utilizing a Nichia hi-CRI 219 at less than (assuming) $75?!! I'm sometimes amazed at how good quality production *gear (lights, knives, packs, general EDC stuff) is these days...


----------



## GrooveRite

Is the XP-G2 SA emitter brighter than the XP-G2 R5 and are the beam patterns similar or different? 

Looking to get an D25C XML Ti though but unsure whether to hold out now for the '14 version!?


----------



## blackFFM

GrooveRite said:


> Is the XP-G2 SA emitter brighter than the XP-G2 R5 and are the beam patterns similar or different?



It's just a higher flux bin.


----------



## TweakMDS

Dammit shelm, I need this in my clicky collection now... 
- D25A clicky XP-G 
- Titanium D25A clicky XM-L (CW - 2012 model)
- Titanium D25C clicky XM-L (NW - 2012 model)
- Titanium D25A clicky XP-G2 (CW - 2013 model)

Logic dictates the 2014 D25C with a Nichia 219, but I'm thinking the D25A always fits my pockets better. Not sure if AA vs CR123 makes all that much of a difference with the Nichia 219 led anyway.
Definitely going to get the Nichia 219 version though!


----------



## GrooveRite

blackFFM said:


> It's just a higher flux bin.



Thanks!


----------



## Croquette

When I registered my tx25c2 7 month ago I wrote as comments that it would be great to have a d25c clicky ti with a nichia 219 led and full support of rcr123...

My dream came true 


Mine is ordered


----------



## shelm

but Nichia 219 is less efficient, less bright than CREE XM-L2 or XP-G2 S2, right?

:thinking:


----------



## Croquette

You are right... but when there is love, who cares about the numbers ?


----------



## shelm

true true.


i never had a Nichia 219 before so i wouldn't know what kind of love you're talking about. i certainly don't love CREE led's


----------



## Croquette

Yeah talking about love is obviously too much, let me explain : 

The first true led flashlight i used is three years ago a friend's fenix tk11 and I found that one amazing. So i started to lurk around forums and flashlight sellers. I Began with a fenix LD10, and then a PD20, then quark QPLC, eagletac D25c clicky ti xml, neutral cree xml or xp-g2 etc, etc, a solarforce mtg led (1500) lumen wahou 

Then, just for fun i bought a L3 nichia... I put an eneloop, turned it on and I found it was the most beautiful tint and beam I ever saw (too me) in a flashlight.

So yes, it's not very powerful, not very efficient, but a so eye-pleasing beam that I just don't care about the numbers


----------



## Onthelightside

Is there any benefit to using an IMR cell in the DC25C compared to a regular protected RCR123 cell? Is current draw a problem for the RCR123 in the 2013 model of the DC25C in Ti?


----------



## 18650

shelm said:


> *2014* Limited Edition based on the 2013 design now shipping to dealers :huh:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ​


​ 

Any idea what output dimming means? I'm interested in the AA 219 but I worry it has the same nonsensical mode spacing of previous ET lights.


----------



## GrooveRite

Which is the preferred emitter by CPFer's, the CW XM-L2 U2 or the NW XM-L2 T6??


----------



## blackFFM

GrooveRite said:


> Which is the preferred emitter by CPFer's, the CW XM-L2 U2 or the NW XM-L2 T6??



From now on it should be Nichia 219.


----------



## hatman

Where are the 2014 Nichia versions available?


----------



## blackFFM

hatman said:


> Where are the 2014 Nichia versions available?



Nowhere. They were announced 3 days ago. In post #607 it says "now shipping to dealers". I would guess in one or two weeks they'll be available. If you really wanna know e-mail Eagtac's cs. They have great customer service.


----------



## 18650

Eagletac's web site now has a page up.



> The new Nichia 219 5000K neutral white LED boosts CRI to 92 for best color beam.



I didn't even know the 92 CRI 219 emitter came in 5000K varieties. Very interesting.


----------



## shelm

18650 said:


> Eagletac's web site now has a page up.



Thanks!

The URL for the 2013 and 2014 Editions is identical, which means that they edited the webpage a bit, that's all :tired:






määhh.


----------



## 18650

I'm doubting the 92 CRI claim on the 5000K Nichia 219. Is there a new version of this emitter out?


----------



## jdto

Hi everyone. I've searched and searched, both on CPF and Google, but can't find this information. I recently picked up the d25c Clicky ti and I've noticed the lanyard hole edges are quite sharp. The notch in the tail is also noticeably sharp at the edges. Is this normal, or should I be looking to return this individual flashlight?


----------



## neonsteve

I have several D25c clickies in titanium, and the lanyard hole edges and tail notch are not sharp. Those edges are actually every so slightly less sharp than the outer edge around the lens, nearly the same sharpness. I wouldn't say that any of the edges are chamfered, but they are probably lightly sanded before they are polished.


jdto said:


> Hi everyone. I've searched and searched, both on CPF and Google, but can't find this information. I recently picked up the d25c Clicky ti and I've noticed the lanyard hole edges are quite sharp. The notch in the tail is also noticeably sharp at the edges. Is this normal, or should I be looking to return this individual flashlight?


----------



## jdto

neonsteve said:


> I have several D25c clickies in titanium, and the lanyard hole edges and tail notch are not sharp. Those edges are actually every so slightly less sharp than the outer edge around the lens, nearly the same sharpness. I wouldn't say that any of the edges are chamfered, but they are probably lightly sanded before they are polished.


Thanks for the reply. It feels like mine was, perhaps, not sanded quite thoroughly enough. I am going to try to sand those edges very lightly with some 400 grit and see if I can smooth them down a bit. I'm not too keen on returning this and I also have carried it enough for it to show.


----------



## blackFFM

jdto said:


> Hi everyone. I've searched and searched, both on CPF and Google, but can't find this information. I recently picked up the d25c Clicky ti and I've noticed the lanyard hole edges are quite sharp. The notch in the tail is also noticeably sharp at the edges. Is this normal, or should I be looking to return this individual flashlight?



They FEEL somewhat sharp but the really aren't.


----------



## jdto

blackFFM said:


> They FEEL somewhat sharp but the really aren't.


It definitely had a bit of a burr around the edges. After a few minutes of light sanding, things feel smoother. It was to the point where reaching into my pocket with the light clipped was not fun. Anyway, thanks for the replies. I've learned a ton already just from lurking about and searching on CPF.


----------



## Speedfreakz

I have one and feel it was just left with a rough cut and never addressed. A touch up with a file helped


----------



## Fireclaw18

All my D25s, both titanium and aluminum had VERY shard edges around the lanyard hole. Definitely feels they were rough cut and never smoothed.

I lightly filed the sharp edges at the cutout on each of mine. Problem solved.


----------



## Lite_me

I wrapped a narrow cut length of electrical tape around the end, staying above the clip hump, covering the edges of my aluminum D25a. It had already wore a hole through the back side of the pocket on the jeans that I wear, where I clip it to my front pocket.


----------



## jdto

Fireclaw18 said:


> All my D25s, both titanium and aluminum had VERY shard edges around the lanyard hole. Definitely feels they were rough cut and never smoothed.
> 
> I lightly filed the sharp edges at the cutout on each of mine. Problem solved.



Yeah, I broke out the files today, as yesterday I found the high-grit sandpaper wasn't getting the job done. It definitely made a difference.


----------



## tcr03

*2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

Was wondering what the difference between the two. Is it worth waiting till i can find a 2014 edition or just order the 2013 one


----------



## Ryp

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

If you want a light with a Nichia 219, wait for the 2014. Aside from the new LED option, I believe there are no changes (I may be wrong).


----------



## Mr. Tone

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

I just ordered a 2014 D25A clicky titanium with Nichia 219 from Goinggear. According to their webpage they had three in stock. The titanium pics are beautiful and I really like the Nichia 219. This one is stated as 5000K instead of the 4500K of all my other Nichia 219 models. Normally, 5000K is a little too cool for my tastes but it might work since this is a hi cri with a minimum of 92. I am pretty stoked about it and very excited someone actually had one in stock. I will update after I get my hands on it.


----------



## tcr03

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

Either one ill be getting the xml one. Im just wondering if the specs or modes are different between the two


----------



## blackFFM

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

The specs are a little bit different. The design changed just a little bit from the 2013 design. You can find all the changes on their website.


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

The 2013 model has a brass heatsink peeking through at the head, which is no longer so with the 2014 model. Apart from that some new led choices like the Nichia 219 that makes me really excited.


----------



## Brasso

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

I don't understand all the hub-bub about this model. Yeah, it has a nice clip. Other than that, it's a Quark. What's so special about it?


No mode memory. Reverse clicky. Head twisty. Yuck.


----------



## 1jono

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



Brasso said:


> I don't understand all the hub-bub about this model. Yeah, it has a nice clip. Other than that, it's a Quark. What's so special about it?
> 
> 
> No mode memory. Reverse clicky. Head twisty. Yuck.



They do have a mode memory which is switchable (On or Off)
Reverse clicky yes.
The head twist is only for max output and strobe.
There are three modes Moonlight,Med & high available with a soft press and you can also get to the flashy modes by cycling through the group twice without any twisting.
Also they have class leading output according to Selfbuilts review.
Apart from the reverse clicky I think they are nicely built and really bright.

IMHO that is.

Oh I forgot to say they also have a really nice beam pattern and tint plus a Nichia 219 CRI-92 option is available too.

Also a lot of the quarks,including the two I used to own,can have a nasty green tint!


----------



## Brasso

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

They have a mode memory? I have not read that on any of the instructions or reviews. If true, that would give them a few more notches in my opinion.


----------



## reppans

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



Brasso said:


> I don't understand all the hub-bub about this model. Yeah, it has a nice clip. Other than that, it's a Quark. What's so special about it?
> 
> 
> No mode memory. Reverse clicky. Head twisty. Yuck.



I like the D25 _*because*_ it's like a Quark , in a nicer, smaller package.

Also recently recv'd an El Capitan and MDC AA, which are nice lights, but I'm kinda disappointed and honestly don't see what all the hub-bub is about with them . But of course, to each his own.... and that's why we have so many different manufacturers and models to choose from.




Mr. Tone said:


> I just ordered a 2014 D25A clicky titanium with Nichia 219 from Goinggear. According to their webpage they had three in stock. .



Thanks for the head's up - I hope I got one of those three... it showed two when I placed my order, but I've also had GG discover 0 inventory when it showed otherwise. So interestingly, I should now have two N219 lights in the mail to me: A modded Quark AA and 2014 D25A.


----------



## Mr. Tone

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

I got a reply from Eagletac about the 5000K rating on the Nichia 219B hi cri emitters. Eagletac said these are the same emitters that are in the MX25L3C(which I have). They said that the bin has a range from 4500-5000K and that is why the listing is that way. They are the minimum cri of 92 emitters. This is fine for me, then, since the tint and color rendering on my MX25L3C is absolutely wonderful. I am really stoked about getting this new 2014 titanium clicky with Nichia 219B.


----------



## Mr. Tone

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



reppans said:


> I like the D25 _*because*_ it's like a Quark , in a nicer, smaller package.
> 
> Also recently recv'd an El Capitan and MDC AA, which are nice lights, but I'm kinda disappointed and honestly don't see what all the hub-bub is about with them . But of course, to each his own.... and that's why we have so many different manufacturers and models to choose from.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the head's up - I hope I got one of those three... it showed two when I placed my order, but I've also had GG discover 0 inventory when it showed otherwise. So interestingly, I should now have two N219 lights in the mail to me: A modded Quark AA and 2014 D25A.



I had that happen when I ordered the MX25L3 XM-L2 several weeks ago. However, I think it said there was some in stock because they have the option of the kit and non-kit model in the same listing. I am guessing that there are some non-kit versions in stock but not the kit version. I ordered the kit version and then later got an update that said they were on back order. That isn't really a problem since I have a number of throwers around. If I get a shipping notice on the 2014 D25A I will let you know.


----------



## GrooveRite

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

If you guys had to recommend/give someone a light for use in the Construction field, which light/tint would you give them...

•XM-L2 CW
•XM-L2 NW
•XP-G2
•Nichia 219


----------



## Mr. Tone

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



GrooveRite said:


> If you guys had to recommend/give someone a light for use in the Construction field, which light/tint would you give them...
> 
> •XM-L2 CW
> •XM-L2 NW
> •XP-G2
> •Nichia 219



Do you need good color rendering for electrical wiring, etc.? Also, will you be using this light for up close purposes or wanting a little more distance(throw)? I can tell you the XM-L2 versions have a very wide floody beam. The hotspot is not much smaller than the total spill light. This is a very nice beam for up close use but does not have much throw. The XP-G2 and Nichia 219 versions should have a tighter hotspot and a little more throw. If you want the best color rendering go with the Nichia, the most lumens go with the XM-L2, or the most throw go with the XP-G2. 

As far as cool vs. neutral white this is a highly personal preference. Do you have any experience with comparing cool white vs. neutral white? The Nichia has a hi CRI and also is at the coolest range of "neutral white". Most neutral white LEDs in flashlights have a warmer CCT than the Nichia 219B in these. Most neutrals available are typically between 4000-4300K CCT and the Nichia 219B here is between 4500-5000K CCT.


----------



## blackFFM

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

What's wrong with a reverse clicky?


----------



## Mr. Tone

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



reppans said:


> I like the D25 _*because*_ it's like a Quark , in a nicer, smaller package.
> 
> Also recently recv'd an El Capitan and MDC AA, which are nice lights, but I'm kinda disappointed and honestly don't see what all the hub-bub is about with them . But of course, to each his own.... and that's why we have so many different manufacturers and models to choose from.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the head's up - I hope I got one of those three... it showed two when I placed my order, but I've also had GG discover 0 inventory when it showed otherwise. So interestingly, I should now have two N219 lights in the mail to me: A modded Quark AA and 2014 D25A.



I just looked on Goinggear's website and they now show 0 in stock for the 2014 ti D25A clicky. It looks like we got lucky on snagging one before they were all gone!


----------



## mcnair55

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



blackFFM said:


> What's wrong with a reverse clicky?



Nothing mate,what suits some others do not like,i am not keen on twisties but if i like the light enough i will buy it with a twisty.When you get a bunch of anorak wearers discussing a hobby you get the usual bull that goes with it.At the end of the day it is a tube with a bulb stuck in the other end.


----------



## AVService

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



blackFFM said:


> What's wrong with a reverse clicky?



With a reverse clicky you do not get the momentary feature which is what I like in a pocket light.


----------



## reppans

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



Mr. Tone said:


> I just looked on Goinggear's website and they now show 0 in stock for the 2014 ti D25A clicky. It looks like we got lucky on snagging one before they were all gone!



Yeah, I saw that and it's why I said I hope I got one of those three. Don't count your eggs before a shipping notice... as I mentioned, just a week or two ago, they returned my Paypal on an order while they still showed inventory on their website. 

I hope my order doesn't mess yours up - just in case someone doesn't strictly abide by the FIFO rules. But for future reference, when the inventory count shows that low, you should really wait until you get your shipping notice, before informing everyone else . 

Once again, I thank you though... We'll know by the end of the day.


----------



## Brasso

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

Yep. No momentary.


----------



## GrooveRite

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



Mr. Tone said:


> Do you need good color rendering for electrical wiring, etc.? Also, will you be using this light for up close purposes or wanting a little more distance(throw)? I can tell you the XM-L2 versions have a very wide floody beam. The hotspot is not much smaller than the total spill light. This is a very nice beam for up close use but does not have much throw. The XP-G2 and Nichia 219 versions should have a tighter hotspot and a little more throw. If you want the best color rendering go with the Nichia, the most lumens go with the XM-L2, or the most throw go with the XP-G2.
> 
> As far as cool vs. neutral white this is a highly personal preference. Do you have any experience with comparing cool white vs. neutral white? The Nichia has a hi CRI and also is at the coolest range of "neutral white". Most neutral white LEDs in flashlights have a warmer CCT than the Nichia 219B in these. Most neutrals available are typically between 4000-4300K CCT and the Nichia 219B here is between 4500-5000K CCT.



I want to get my brother a light. He is currently working indoors so I would say a good flood light would be best for his use. I'm thinking of getting him the D25a Ti with either XM-L2 NW or Nichia 219. I'm leaning towards the Nichia for its efficiency since he'll probably be using it alot. I may opt for the XML though since its 'brighter' than the Nichia. Decisions, decisions!!

Thanks for your help! :thumbsup:


----------



## reppans

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



GrooveRite said:


> ..... I'm thinking of getting him the D25a Ti with either XM-L2 NW or Nichia 219. *I'm leaning towards the Nichia for its efficiency* since he'll probably be using it alot. I may opt for the XML though since its 'brighter' than the Nichia. Decisions, decisions!!....



The CREE XML is more efficient... ie, for the same power consumption/runtime (any given fixed mode since the drivers are probably the same for both emitters) the XML will be brighter. The decision to go with the N219 is for the beautiful tint.


----------



## GrooveRite

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



reppans said:


> The CREE XML is more efficient... ie, for the same power consumption/runtime (any given fixed mode since the drivers are probably the same for both emitters) the XML will be brighter. The decision to go with the N219 is for the beautiful tint.



Thanks for the info! I guess I'll just end up getting the XML for him as well as on my D25c. I already have a Nichia with my L10.


----------



## GoingGear.com

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



Mr. Tone said:


> I just looked on Goinggear's website and they now show 0 in stock for the 2014 ti D25A clicky. It looks like we got lucky on snagging one before they were all gone!



They aren't a one-time only thing.


----------



## reppans

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



GoingGear.com said:


> They aren't a one-time only thing.



Patience is not a flashaholic's virtue...

I got my shipping notice... thanks GG :thumbsup:


----------



## tcr03

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

Well i placed my order on amazon. Had a gift card or i would of got it somewhere else. Now the wait begins. This will be my first titanium light. Dont know why this light caught my eye. I never really liked the titanium lights, but this one i kept coming back to.


----------



## Newguy2012

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



Mr. Tone said:


> I just looked on Goinggear's website and they now show 0 in stock for the 2014 ti D25A clicky. It looks like we got lucky on snagging one before they were all gone!



You got lucky. I added the last one to my cart last night but didn't go thru with it. I made very difficult decision of letting it go. Let me know how it compares to nichia 219a. Post a beamshot if you can. I'm curious about the color temp. The last I checked 219b only offer warm temp with 92+cri.
----------
@GoingGear.com
So there's a chance you'll get more?


----------



## Mr. Tone

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



GoingGear.com said:


> They aren't a one-time only thing.



I got my shipping notice, too, thanks GoingGear. 

However, according to Eagletac's website the 2014 titanium clickies *are* limited editions. http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25tirc_2/features/index.html Is this not true, then?


----------



## blackFFM

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



Mr. Tone said:


> I got my shipping notice, too, thanks GoingGear.
> 
> However, according to Eagletac's website the 2014 titanium clickies *are* limited editions. http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25tirc_2/features/index.html Is this not true, then?




Yes, they are limited but not THAT limited.


----------



## MojaveMoon07

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



reppans said:


> The CREE XML is more efficient... ie, for the same power consumption/runtime (any given fixed mode since the drivers are probably the same for both emitters) the XML will be brighter. The decision to go with the N219 is for the beautiful tint.




Here _(link)_ are comparison photos illustrating what reppans said.


----------



## BeerGuy

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

I just ordered a 2014 D25C Ti from a certain CPF modder......


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

My favorite local flashlight store has them in stock now, but doesn't seem to carry the Nichia 219 version. I guess I'll be a little more patient 
Anyone have their nichia 219 version yet? I know the led, but I'm really curious how the beam is compared to the XP-G2.


----------



## Mr. Tone

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



TweakMDS said:


> My favorite local flashlight store has them in stock now, but doesn't seem to carry the Nichia 219 version. I guess I'll be a little more patient
> Anyone have their nichia 219 version yet? I know the led, but I'm really curious how the beam is compared to the XP-G2.



I should see mine today or Monday. I will let everyone know my first impressions. However, I can't give you comparison to the XP-G2 version as I have the XM-L2 D25A clicky. I will give 2014 titanium D25A clicky Nichia 219 vs. 2013 D25A clicky XM-L2 comparisons for you. If I have time I will try to take some pics, too.


----------



## blackFFM

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*



TweakMDS said:


> My favorite local flashlight store has them in stock now, but doesn't seem to carry the Nichia 219 version.



If you are referring to nkon, they had them in stock yesterday and I ordered one . I guess they had just a couple.


----------



## Mr. Tone

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*

I got my ti Nichia 219 in the mail just a little bit ago. I am very pleased. The different levels, max brightness, and especially the tint and color rendering are what I hoped for. I am in a hurry but hopefully over the next couple of days I can take some comparison pics for everyone to see. This is my first titanium light and I really like the looks of it. Now I see why they are popular around here.


----------



## Lite_me

*Re: 2013 vs 2014 eagletac d25c clicky titanium*


----------



## JKolmo

blackFFM said:


> If you are referring to nkon, they had them in stock yesterday and I ordered one . I guess they had just a couple.



Yeah, but that was the AA version not the 16340, no?


----------



## blackFFM

JKolmo said:


> Yeah, but that was the AA version not the 16340, no?



Yes, you are right.


----------



## tcr03

So i got mine today and i have a few concerns. First which one did i get. And should i be upset with the condition its in. Here are a few pics of what i got.




[/URL][/IMG]








>


----------



## blackFFM

What's the problem? I'm just seeing two pictures of a box.


----------



## tcr03

Sorry. Took me a minute to get everything posted using my tablet. Heres another pic. I also remember seeing that it came with a battery.


----------



## blackFFM

You got the latest version, 2014. That's pretty much all I can tell you from those pictures.


----------



## tcr03

Yeah, i was just so excited to get my first titanium light. And when i got it, it had scratches and a nick on it. It didnt come with a battery. And now after playing with it for a bit i looks like in mode 1 set for moonlight i get moonlight,high, then turbo. No real low or medium. I love how small the light is. Im used to the quarks and love them, but i really like the form of the d25c now. Smaller than my quark and brighter. Id be more than happy to switch over to the regular d25c clicky for edc if it could handle rcr123 cells with more regulation


----------



## blackFFM

tcr03 said:


> Id be more than happy to switch over to the regular d25c clicky for edc if it could handle rcr123 cells with more regulation




You mean the aluminum d25c? It's the same. Eagletac doesn't get the mode spacing right with li-ions. A light without anodization works better as edc. I would use the ti version.


----------



## SCEMan

tcr03 said:


> Yeah, i was just so excited to get my first titanium light. And when i got it, it had scratches and a nick on it. It didnt come with a battery. And now after playing with it for a bit i looks like in mode 1 set for moonlight i get moonlight,high, then turbo. No real low or medium. I love how small the light is. Im used to the quarks and love them, but i really like the form of the d25c now. Smaller than my quark and brighter. Id be more than happy to switch over to the regular d25c clicky for edc if it could handle rcr123 cells with more regulation



Yeah, the D25A Ti (2014) I just received also had many scratches and a nick. Fortunately I was able to polish them out. The 2012 Ti I had was better finished w/no marks. 

I find the D25A mode spacing fine for me, even with a 14500. Although it loses a true moonlight in "moonlight mode" it's dim enough to fit my usage well. If I need a true moonight I can use eneloops which also don't heat up on Turbo in seconds.


----------



## blackFFM

The D25Cs have a true moonlight mode using RCRs. I guess the different circuit of the D25A isn't that good. 

Eagtac is using pure titanium and not an alloy hence the easy scratching. I wish they would change that. Since I'm going to use my D25A so I don't mind some light scratches.


----------



## 18650

blackFFM said:


> The D25Cs have a true moonlight mode using RCRs. I guess the different circuit of the D25A isn't that good. Eagtac is using pure titanium and not an alloy hence the easy scratching. I wish they would change that. Since I'm going to use my D25A so I don't mind some light scratches.


 Does anyone know the lumen levels when the D25A 219 is run directly driven by 14500? ET's web site shows the theoretical max of the XP-G and XM-L versions but nothing for the 219.


----------



## reppans

I meter the D25A 2014 N219 to be:

Eneloop: 0.15, 6, (or 2.5/13), 60, 100 (110 spec is w/in my margin of error)
14500: 3, 80, (or 15/80), 200, 200

My moonlight has the PWM effect.. same as one my '12's. 2 of my '12s only show the PWM effect at low voltages.


----------



## 18650

reppans said:


> I meter the D25A 2014 N219 to be:
> 
> Eneloop: 0.15, 6, (or 2.5/13), 60, 100 (110 spec is w/in my margin of error)
> 14500: 3, 80, (or 15/80), 200, 200
> 
> My moonlight has the PWM effect.. same as one my '12's. 2 of my '12s only show the PWM effect at low voltages.



Would the 100 lumen reading be before or after the 5 minute 20% step down? The Eagletac page lists 88 lumens (ANSI FL-1) as the max output on the 219 model with AA. The spec page itself I found a bit confusing at times.


----------



## reppans

18650 said:


> Would the 100 lumen reading be before or after the 5 minute 20% step down? The Eagletac page lists 88 lumens (ANSI FL-1) as the max output on the 219 model with AA. The spec page itself I found a bit confusing at times.



My reading is on first activation.. now that you point me to the updated spec sheet I believe ET maybe using a 10% more conservative lumen scale then that to which I calibrate (47s). I found my 2012 D25A NW XML to quite closely match ET's listed CW specs, but it's supposed to be 7-10% lower... so I guess there is consistency between my examples. That would put the D25A N219 around 130ish lumens on a Selfbuilt/Zebralight scale. (BTW, ANSI FL-1 is BS... there's ~ 50% difference between ET and ZL for the same spec lumens... you have to test yourself, or compare the relatively - not absolute - numbers on Selfbuilt's reviews)

I also now see the 20% step-up footnote and agree it is confusing - I wouldn't have thought that the A series needed it, but it guess I does get pretty hot on max runs. I may test for that at some point, but being a low lumen/runtime fanatic, I don't care much about max and only use it for seconds at a time. 

I am disappinted with the moonlight mode being so far off spec and PWM-like behavior though, my 2012's brighter, current regulated 0.25-0.3 level makes it one of my favorites after my QPA-X.

.


----------



## kreisl

I updated my thread op on the other forum which reviews the techs of EagleTac D25A Clicky *2013 Ti XP-G2*. Since the 2014 Ti uses the same D25A driver called _A400RC *III*_, one can assume that the performance is identical for the 2014 Ti *XP-G2* emitter model. Our UPz had measured the brightness of SC52, D25A 2013 Clicky Ti XP-G2, and LD12 G2 not long ago in his data-logging DIY Fenix integrating sphere which is a spherical lightbox calibrated with utmost care after a whole (and growing!) bunch of Fenix lights. His measurements showed the LD12 G2 spot on with the official Fenix specs. The following measurements (apart from existing sample variation in power LED Cree lights!) are probably the most accurate and helpful D25A G2 lumens measurements you can find on the entire internet:



​From the table you can gather that the D25A is very complex in its technical performance, it can produce a multitude of brightness levels, some of which are stabilized or not, and some of which have PWM or not. 4 full runs on Eneloop-Hi, Eneloop-Tu, 14500-Med, 14500-Hi were logged and i am going to provide these Fenixbrightness-runtime-graphs (with SC52 and LD12 included as reference) soon, sit tight.
The take home message is, the light output (after the Fenix lights scale) on Eneloop is ~146 ANSI lumen (and *max 160lm* ~1sec after activation), and on 14500 ZL584 ~*422lm max* (and ~372 ANSI lumen, that is measurement taken 30.0sec after activation on a 4.200V fully charged Sanyo cell).
Our SC52 easily does 250 Fenix lumens 30sec after activation (and ~280lm 1sec after activation) yet the D25A looks brighter, is much(!) more throwier and has a supremely beautiful tint. The XP-G2 that is. Not the D25A XM-L's :green: 

Note:
On the SB scale (selfbuilt), the 146 and 160lm would correspond to:
125 Fenix lumen = (145SB/125FX) * 125FX = 145 SB lumen
*146* Fenix lumen = (145SB/125FX) * 146FX = 169 SB lumen = *170* SB lumen (rounded as SB does)
*160* Fenix lumen = (145SB/125FX) * 160SB = 186 SB lumen = *190* SB lumen (rounded as SB does)
372 Fenix lumen = (145SB/125FX) * 372SB = 432 SB lumen
422 Fenix lumen = (145SB/125FX) * 422SB = 490 SB lumen


----------



## 18650

Is that right? D25A on Eneloop will do a turbo step down from 146 lumens to 50 lumens?


----------



## kreisl

yes, that's right on my sample. i did repeated runtime measurements on Turbo and got 4h56min as reference value.
UPz measured ~255min, which is 4h15min. That's a 41min difference but still in the same ballpark: clearly over 4hrs of runtime on Turbo. such crazy runtimes are only possible if the step-down was massive. also note that the 146 lumens are at the t=30s mark and not at the step-down. The step-down occurs ~202sec after activation, which is 172s later than the 146lm mark.

There may be sample variation, so other D25A XP-G2 samples may have a smaller step down. If more users could post their step down measurements (e.g. by means of current measurements!!), or alternatively the Turbo runtimes, that'd be helpful to answer you question on a broader user basis.

Right after the step-down on my sample, the tailcap current is 0.333A and by the time of cell depletion has reached 1.023A. With this rising current the light stabilizes the brightness of 50lm for those 4hrs+.


----------



## 18650

kreisl said:


> yes, that's right on my sample. i did repeated runtime measurements on Turbo and got 4h56min as reference value.
> UPz measured ~255min, which is 4h15min. That's a 41min difference but still in the same ballpark: clearly over 4hrs of runtime on Turbo. such crazy runtimes are only possible if the step-down was massive. also note that the 146 lumens are at the t=30s mark and not at the step-down. The step-down occurs ~202sec after activation, which is 172s later than the 146lm mark.
> 
> There may be sample variation, so other D25A XP-G2 samples may have a smaller step down. If more users could post their step down measurements (e.g. by means of current measurements!!), or alternatively the Turbo runtimes, that'd be helpful to answer you question on a broader user basis.
> 
> Right after the step-down on my sample, the tailcap current is 0.333A and by the time of cell depletion has reached 1.023A. With this rising current the light stabilizes the brightness of 50lm for those 4hrs+.



Wow that seems pretty ridiculous if the turbo step down goes to a level that's lower than the high setting.


----------



## reppans

Well this intrigued me, so I just tested (on Eneloops) my '12 NW XML and '14 N19 on turbo, and concur with kreisl on the step-down... my N219 started at 100, dropped to ~80 at the 3 min mark due to voltage sage and dropped noticeably at the 200 sec mark to 30 lms, so about 1/3 the starting output as kreisl mentioned. In comparison, my XML started at 115, dropped to ~100 lms at 3 mins (V sag) and then stepped-down to 80 lms (visibly blinked) at the 200 sec. mark. So interestingly, a much less significant drop with the XML emitter, and about equal to high.

As far as what's true ANSI, I find my calibrations match ti-force's quite closely who claims (and the only reviewer I've seen dare say so):


> For those of you who aren't aware, I have my own calibrated homemade integrating sphere (I have two, actually) for measuring lumen output of different lights. My sphere's have been calibrated using lights that were measured in a professional lab sphere, so my lumen results are very accurate.


http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...0-4sevens-Quark-X-AA-2-Review&highlight=quark

IMHO, lumen scale differences seem to be (from conservative to liberal):
ET > 47s > FX > ZL. kreisl's adjustments btwn FX and SB/ZL seem fair, you also get a relative feel for these differences by looking at SBs reviews of the D25 series, QAA2X, LD12 and SC52, and comparing how "understated" he feels each are.


----------



## shelm

reppans said:


> ET > 47s > FX > ZL > SB.



Thanks for leaving your  Thrunite out of the equation. Imho they really lost it in 2013 with their exaggerated lumens claims for Saber and Archer models, which ruined their -until then!- consistent conservative Thrunite lumens scale. When a manufacturer begins to employ an inconsistent scale, then their entire program must be banned from the equation. Even worse is Klarus lumens scale, a fact which i had mentioned a few times in other threads. Maybe Klarus lumens are consistent (within the Klarus program) -i dont care!- but they were totally exaggerated for RS1A, P1A and MiX6, the Klarus lights which i own. Zebralight lumens are liberal, that's true, but it is also true that ZL lights outperform in brightness most other lights of their class. SC52 is clearly brighter than Olight O'Pen (180 47s lumens) or D25A or LD12 or whatever. We still need to wait for Armytek. Since the AT Partner XP-G was tested bright, the AT Smart should be even brighter despite its floody diffused TIR-lensed beam. I don't know anything about Armytek's lumens consistency (within the AT program) nor its relation to the Fenix lumens scale but later this year we will find out.

While i agree with reppans equation with regard to 'conservative vs liberal', let it be noted that from my observation of reported data and specs including selfbuilt's Eagtac reviews that ET lumens specs are conservative OR spot on. And this "OR" makes the ET scale inconsistent, meaning it would be impossible to calibrate your DIY lightbox solely based on a wide array of exclusively ET lights from all ages. Such a lightbox could not reproduce the ET specs for all calibration points. Because of missing consistency.

I read the calibration of UPz's integrating sphere and it made total sense to me: all calibration points must lie on the same curve (it's not a straight line but a clearly defined power function as confirmed by selfbuilt) to prove consistency. Outliers, i.e. outlying calibration points, are not allowed.

With Thrunite, Klarus, Nitecore, or Eagletac you get too many outliers. At least this: Eagletac does not exaggerate their lumens claims compared to the Fenix scale.

Good discussion, thanks :wave:


----------



## blackFFM

My D25A Nichia seems faulty. I only have group 1. What a bummer.


----------



## reppans

shelm said:


> Thanks for leaving your  Thrunite out of the equation. Imho they really lost it in 2013 with their exaggerated lumens claims for Saber and Archer models, which ruined their -until then!- consistent conservative Thrunite lumens scale. .....
> 
> Zebralight lumens are liberal, that's true, but it is also true that ZL lights outperform in brightness most other lights of their class. SC52 is clearly brighter than Olight O'Pen (180 47s lumens) or D25A or LD12 or whatever.



Yeah, I feel less comfortable with TN after seeing the claimed spec bump on the T10 > Saber upgrade. My T10s measures accurate lumens, but some of the runtimes are badly exaggerated (eg, 9 lms for 39 hrs?). My smell test for an efficient 1xEneloop light is ~ 150-200 lumen-hours (lms x hrs; 47's scale) across various modes with less efficiency at the highest and lowest levels - the SC52 and LD12 claim ~ 300 lm-hrs through "liberal" lumens, runtimes and batteries.

Yeah, I meter the SC52 @ ~200 lms on the 47's scale, while the Penlight meters @ spec 180 (same 12% brighter SB got 290 vs 260), and my QPA-X is 160. But performance for me is efficiency (lm-hrs) and ZL's marketing claims make my skin crawl. I ran a side-by-side with the '12 D25A-X 70lm/2.5hr mode (NW adjusted) vs SC52 108/3hr mode since they meter the same for me. They both hit 50% in 2.5 hrs. ZL's lumen-hrs specs almost double ETs. ZL also claims the same 0.3/3 lms modes as my QPA-X (my favorites modes used ~80% of the time), but with 3x and 2x (respectively) the runtime. Well, this is how they get it...







Don't get me wrong, the SC52 is a great and very efficient 1xAA but ZL keeps listing specs that compete directly with the 3V class leaders - the SC52 actually specs, mode for mode in lm-hrs, with the 2012 QPA2-X and D25C-X Clicky, and both the 3V class leaders.


----------



## Mr. Tone

blackFFM said:


> My D25A Nichia seems faulty. I only have group 1. What a bummer.



Really, that is a bummer. Mine works perfectly including the programming for the lower group of modes. Is yours not working with the head tight or loose? I am sure Eagletac will take care of it for you with the 10 year warranty and especially if you just got it.


----------



## reppans

blackFFM said:


> My D25A Nichia seems faulty. I only have group 1. What a bummer.



Can you detect increased brightness tightening the bezel to turbo, and/or access tight bezel strobe? A couple of us had an issue with the 2012s where it seemed like the threads where cut just a fraction too short so you couldn't activate tight bezel position (it's posted earlier in this thread). Cranking the head tight/loose hard a couple dozen times fixed it of us. 

BTW, the "electronics" of the light are only covered for a year (read the fine print) so the 10yr warranty is where ET is "really liberal" .


----------



## Mr. Tone

reppans said:


> BTW, the "electronics" of the light are only covered for a year (read the fine print) so the 10yr warranty is where ET is "really liberal" .



I didn't know that, maybe I should read all the way through it some time


----------



## shelm

reppans said:


> My smell test for an efficient 1xEneloop light is ~ 150-200 lumen-hours (lms x hrs; 47's scale) across various modes with less efficiency at the highest and lowest levels



cool test, i like it :thumbsup:
given the accurate data from the table, the D25A xp-g2 does ~200 lumen*hours (FX scale) on most modes, eneloop & 14500, and about ~250 lumen*hours on the Med-modes.

Med-mode is the most efficient then!


----------



## AVService

blackFFM said:


> My D25A Nichia seems faulty. I only have group 1. What a bummer.



I got a bad head on one last year and it did the same thing. Luckily I had a second one to interchange parts with to diagnose the problem and my dealer sent me the new head that I needed.


----------



## Brasso

So are people happy with this light? I read about a lot of problems with this model line on here.


----------



## shelm

am happy to have mine, 
and it lies happily in my pelican case so got no problems whatsoever!

imho it's an affordable must-have in one's cpf collection :thumbsup:


----------



## blackFFM

AVService said:


> I got a bad head on one last year and it did the same thing. Luckily I had a second one to interchange parts with to diagnose the problem and my dealer sent me the new head that I needed.



So you didn't had to send the light back? Interesting. 





Brasso said:


> So are people happy with this light? I read about a lot of problems with this model line on here.



I am happy. There aren't really many problems. You just can't please everybody. Of course mode spacing could be better and there are some sharp edges on mine but there is nothing a little bit of sandpaper can't fix.


----------



## AVService

blackFFM said:


> So you didn't had to send the light back? Interesting.
> 
> .


Correct,I was able to diagnose it as the head with the problem and they sent me just the head and I sent the bad one back in on their dime too.

Now I just can't remember the dealer or I would recommend them.


----------



## reppans

The N219 Ti is growing on me, making me a tint snob, and winning the most pocket time at the moment. Fit and finish is significantly better than my '12 Ti and the brass on Ti threads are both smooth and tight fitting (almost zero wiggle). The N219B tint is warmer than my L10 N219 (which I like more and can almost be described as "perfectly clear"), but foam spring twisties bug me. It also has little more throw than the L10 or my '12 NW XML for a more balanced beam. The PWM "effect" on moonlight mode is minimal and I can't visually detect it in reflections as a normal PWM light, which is really the only place true PWM tends to annoy me. 

My only quibbles with the light are:
- ML mode so far off spec (I like brighter moonlights 0.3+)
- Lack of full support on higher V cells (CRAAs and 14500s) but the light's so small with limited heat-sinking, so NiMh-only is fine
- Wish ML and 2.5 lms where on the same program, but I understand the benefits of the current config.

It's a top 2 or 3 light in my collection.


----------



## Mr. Tone

reppans said:


> The N219 Ti is growing on me, making me a tint snob, and winning the most pocket time at the moment. Fit and finish is significantly better than my '12 Ti and the brass on Ti threads are both smooth and tight fitting (almost zero wiggle). The N219B tint is warmer than my L10 N219 (which I like more and can almost be described as "perfectly clear"), but foam spring twisties bug me. It also has little more throw than the L10 or my '12 NW XML for a more balanced beam. The PWM "effect" on moonlight mode is minimal and I can't visually detect it in reflections as a normal PWM light, which is really the only place true PWM tends to annoy me.
> 
> My only quibbles with the light are:
> - ML mode so far off spec (I like brighter moonlights 0.3+)
> - Lack of full support on higher V cells (CRAAs and 14500s) but the light's so small with limited heat-sinking, so NiMh-only is fine
> - Wish ML and 2.5 lms where on the same program, but I understand the benefits of the current config.
> 
> It's a top 2 or 3 light in my collection.



Thanks for sharing. Mine is quite nice as well. I have only used a 14500 in it with minimal time on high. I find that the medium setting with 14500 is bright and works well. I haven't noticed any PWM so either it is very high or doesn't have it, I do not know. The problem with the 219 hi CRI is that it can make one discontent with the tint of their other LED flashlights. I am glad that the 219 does not exhibit the huge tint difference between hotspot and spill like the XM-L and XM-L2. There is a difference but it is small and barely noticeable.


----------



## dinokay

Oops Wrong picture in this thread Sorry, I'll post pictures of the two EagleTac 2014 Editions I have coming in later on today.


----------



## Mr. Tone

Here are a few pics as promised. I had some time today since I am snowed in. In all three pics the lights are as following from left to right : Eagletac D25A clicky with neutral white XM-L2, Eagletac 2014 D25A titanium clicky with Nichia 219, and L3 Illumination L10 with Nichia 219.


----------



## lionken07

I emailed GG and looks like they should be getting more of the 2014 version in Nichia within a week or two.


----------



## GrooveRite

lionken07 said:


> I emailed GG and looks like they should be getting more of the 2014 version in Nichia within a week or two.



Is this the place that currently has and/or will be getting them?? Any CPF coupon/discount codes?


----------



## Mr. Tone

GrooveRite said:


> Is this the place that currently has and/or will be getting them?? Any CPF coupon/discount codes?



Most of the dealer CPF discount codes are located in a sticky on CPFMarketplace. I think it is under a heading that says "Good Deals" or something like that. I got mine from GoingGear  They are the only one that had one when I was ready to order. I think EagletacUSA might but I am not sure.


----------



## AB8XL

I received an email newsletter from them today showing the new 2014 Ti version and ordered one, their allowing back orders and offering a discount code ("*2014*") for 12% off the entire site until January 19, 2014.

http://goinggear.com/newest?body_ma...m_medium=email&utm_source=Newsletter+1/7/2013


----------



## cyclesport

Anyone here recvd' the 2014/Nichia 219 *D25C* Ti yet...if so, any thoughts? I just placed a (pre-?) order with GG and was curious how others like it...


----------



## Nice65

Guy called Tracer on BritishBlades just got one, he added pics. Nice indeed.


----------



## Bill S.

cyclesport said:


> Anyone here recvd' the 2014/Nichia 219 *D25C* Ti yet...if so, any thoughts? I just placed a (pre-?) order with GG and was curious how others like it...



I'd like to know too.


----------



## GrooveRite

Mr. Tone said:


> Most of the dealer CPF discount codes are located in a sticky on CPFMarketplace. I think it is under a heading that says "Good Deals" or something like that. I got mine from GoingGear  They are the only one that had one when I was ready to order. I think EagletacUSA might but I am not sure.





yoyobrotha said:


> I received an email newsletter from them today showing the new 2014 Ti version and ordered one, their allowing back orders and offering a discount code ("*2014*") for 12% off the entire site until January 19, 2014.
> 
> http://goinggear.com/newest?body_ma...m_medium=email&utm_source=Newsletter+1/7/2013



Thanks guys! Any idea if their (GG's) XM-L2 U2's are CW or NW??


----------



## Etsu

GrooveRite said:


> Thanks guys! Any idea if their (GG's) XM-L2 U2's are CW or NW??



If it doesn't say, it's cool white.


----------



## Mr. Tone

GrooveRite said:


> Thanks guys! Any idea if their (GG's) XM-L2 U2's are CW or NW??



I believe the XM-L2 U2 are cool white versions and the XM-L2 T6 are neutral white, at least according to Eagletac's website. That is a very small difference in brightness between the two flux bins. I just checked and GoingGear does not have a listing for the neutral white XM-L2 2014 ti edition in either D25A or D25C. They do have listings for both with the Nichia 219, however.


----------



## GrooveRite

Mr. Tone said:


> I believe the XM-L2 U2 are cool white versions and the XM-L2 T6 are neutral white, at least according to Eagletac's website. That is a very small difference in brightness between the two flux bins. I just checked and GoingGear does not have a listing for the neutral white XM-L2 2014 ti edition in either D25A or D25C. They do have listings for both with the Nichia 219, however.



Thanks Mr. Tone! I wanted the NW but I'll take the CW if it means getting a deal, lol!


----------



## Mr. Tone

GrooveRite said:


> Thanks Mr. Tone! I wanted the NW but I'll take the CW if it means getting a deal, lol!



It looks like EagletacUSA has the 2014 ti XM-L2 in neutral white. http://www.eagletac-usa.com/products/product.aspx?pid=36-38-7128


----------



## blackFFM

GrooveRite said:


> Thanks Mr. Tone! I wanted the NW but I'll take the CW if it means getting a deal, lol!



Please, don't. You always have the 10% discountcode from cpf. No reason to rush.


----------



## jdto

I'm still waiting on my D25A N219 to get here. Canada Post tracking says there was an error and they're rerouting. Sigh.


----------



## Mr. Tone

jdto said:


> I'm still waiting on my D25A N219 to get here. Canada Post tracking says there was an error and they're rerouting. Sigh.



That is unfortunate. It will be worth the wait, though!


----------



## jdto

Mr. Tone said:


> That is unfortunate. It will be worth the wait, though!


Yeah, the excitement of the purchase is enhanced by the anticipation of checking the tracking for a couple of extra days, right? Positive thinking is key. Plus, my 2013 D25C Ti XM-L2 NW is doing a more than adequate job of keeping me patient


----------



## shelm

I found 4 helpful 2014 D25A Ti beamshots on Lampentroll's site:



















animated:





He's got all 4 models in stock :huh:


----------



## Mr. Tone

Great find, shelm!


----------



## SuLyMaN

That neutral white is just gorgeous! Obviously the nichia has the best color renditions but I see neutral white a good compromise between brightness and rendition


----------



## GrooveRite

blackFFM said:


> Please, don't. You always have the 10% discountcode from cpf. No reason to rush.



Is this discount a group discount from CPF or a specific code for a particular site? 

After seeing the pics that Shelm posted, I definitely want the NW's now! Don't have any NW's in my arsenal. Most of my lights from yesteryear are mainly cool white come to think of it, lol! I already have a nichia with my L10.


----------



## decooney

Shelm,

Thanks for posting these photo links, they are encouraging. I purchased a D25C Ti last week. Trying it out now. Small little guy. Makes my Zebralight SC600 look huge. 
Trying to figure out if I can delete the strobe modes and just have the Low/Med/Hi modes. Neat little light.


----------



## SCEMan

In those great beamshots, the NW looks great, but the CW seems subpar. In comparing my NW & CW lights, the NWs offer better color rendition and are my regular choice when hiking, but are visibly less bright. Since my D25A Ti is used primarily indoors and in urban settings with ambient light , CW seemed the way to go. I'll use Turbo/High on 14500s sparingly due to the rapid heat build up.


----------



## kreisl

Finally here some definitive *absolute *Lumens measurements for some common D25-series lights on regular and LiIon cells. Measurements were taken in the aforementioned semi-professional, data-logging DIY integrating sphere calibrated after the Fenix lumens scale (_est._ April 2013). 

Optimal test conditions were provided:

top quality cell models: Panasonic NCR18650A, Zebralight ZL584 (Sanyo UR14500P inside), Eagletac ET16340, Panasonic-Sanyo Eneloop AA, … 
cells fully charged, checked with DMM 
cool room, no hot environment; all measurements taken in Q4/2013 
lights were fan-cooled 
3-4 repeated test runs with cooled down lights and other cell samples of the same cell model to ensure data integrity and pick the 'best performing data column' for the published graphs 
repeated test runs. oh did i already mention that? deserves repeated mentioning :thumbsup: 

This may be the first time on the WWW that someone publishes full runtime graphs of D25A on 14500 or any detailed performance data of D25A for that matter. The tested flashlight models were:

Eagletac *D25C 2013* Clicky Ti XP-G2 R5 cw (*red *colors) 
Eagletac *D25A 2013* Clicky Ti XP-G2 R5 cw (*blue *colors) 
Eagletac *D25A 2012* Clicky Ti XM-L U2 cw (*yellow *colors) 
Eagletac *D25LC2* Clicky XM-L T6 NW (*violet* colors) 
Zebralight *SC52* XM-L U3 cw (*green* colors) 
Fenix *LD12* XP-G2 R5 cw, 2 samples (*black* colors) 
 
While the diagrams are self-explanatory, let me comment nonetheless. First of all, check the range on the X-axis and on the Y-axis and realize what you're looking at. Basically i tried to zoom in the Y-axis, so we go from a look at the higher lumens to looking at the lower lumens range. Lights, modes and batteries are mixed within a single diagram, but you get a feeling for similar lumens levels, efficiency and runtimes.

The following pic lists all logged modes of the four D25-series lights and how ANSI lumen measurements are taken: exactly 30.0 seconds after activation on the fully charged cell! Since a full 14500 run of LD12 was not logged but repeated logs of 30sec-runs only, LD12 was included here too and also the brightest mode of SC52 on 14500 and Eneloop. So there you have it. On fully charged quality-14500, the LD12 G2 outputs ~520 Fenix ANSI lumens directly after activation and the output drops by 60lm during the first 30sec. That makes it ~100lm brighter than the D25A G2 R5 for the same test. We can also learn in detail how fast the higher lumens decline within the first 30 seconds. Interesting. And instructive.

And also look at the highly discussed/questioned SC52! 0.5sec after activation on 14500 the light outputs 498 Fenix lumens and after 30sec its brightness is down to 459 Fenix lumens (=459 Fenix ANSI lumens), a drop by ~40 lumens on the Fenix lumens scale. On Eneloop, the SC52 puts out 288lm at 0.5sec and 279.6lm at 1.0sec after activation, but after 30sec its brightness is down to 251 Fenix ANSI lumens, a drop by ~30 lumens on the Fenix lumens scale. Zebralight had spec'ed it with 280 ANSI lumens on the Zebralight scale, in other words: 280 Zebralight ANSI lumens = 251 Fenix ANSI lumens. Also don't forget that there are sample differences/tolerances between samples: not each and every copy of SC52 puts out (exactly) 251 Fenix ANSI lumens on a fresh full Eneloop!!

pic1





I noticed that some runtimes were amazingly long and distorted the details of the graphs with much lower runtimes. Therefore the following picture contains a collection of the few graphs with long runtimes. They happen to be the Turbo modes on regular cells. Also note the identical time til the Turbo-stepdown, 200sec. _Efficiency _of a chosen mode could be defined as _brightness × runtime_, as long as brightness is stabilized most of the time. On our Fenix lumens scale, the blue curve would have an efficiency of over 245×49.8 = 12200 lm*min = 203 lm*hr. Not bad.
See the huge stepdown of the blue curve? Check with your D25A 2014 Ti XP-G2 S2, if it does the same huge stepdown.

pic2





The following pic shows our lights on LiIon power source. Since the LD12 G2 was tested for the first 30secs only on 14500, its runtime graph is missing in this compilation. Here, the blue line isn't the most efficient. I guess that's the difference between XP-G and XM-L.

pic3





In the following pic we're comparing similar brightnesses at the ~300LM level. You have seen the blue and the brown line before. Pink, red, green were added. Green is SC52 on Eneloop, highest level. Directly after activation, it almost reaches 280 Fenix lumens. Almost. After 30sec the output is down to 254 Fenix lumens, hence "254 ANSI lumens".

pic4





In the following pic we're comparing similar brightnesses at the ~200LM level. Learn that neither D25C nor D25A have stabilized brightness on LiIon's. It is "regulated output" (otherwise it would be direct drive) but not "stabilized output". The Zebralight is hell efficient on all its Hi-modes, isn't it?

pic5





In the following pic we're comparing similar brightnesses at the ~100LM level. We get to see Tu- and Hi-modes of LD12 G2 on Eneloop. And? Looking at the area under the graphs, the LD12 G2 is the least efficient among the Three Musketeers D25A, SC52 and LD12. SC52 is the winner over the XM-L D25A, but not by much. 

pic6





That's all for today. The main purpose of the diagrams was not to expose the efficiency of Eagletac EDC lights. We already know from selfbuilt's graphs and measurements that Eagletac and Zebralight efficiency are top of class together with Foursevens Quark series and a bit superior to Fenix/Rofis efficiency.
The main purpose of the diagrams was to give you absolute lumens data of these lights (with reference to your Fenix flashlight!) and a clear idea of lumens of your 2014 Eagletac D25A/D25C flashlight.

Hope you found this post intriguing in one way or another. Full thanks, measurement and data compilation credits go to our big scene contributor _UPz from RdL and ForoL.


----------



## TweakMDS

I got a bit impatient so ordered the D25C Clicky Ti in Nichia 219. If my wallet likes me next month I still might get the AA version as well, but the D25C is still very EDC-able.
It'll probably be here tomorrow, so I'll post updates if I have anything useful to remark about it.


----------



## fnj

kreisl said:


> neither D25C nor D25A have stabilized brightness on LiIon's. It is "regulated output" (otherwise it would be direct drive) but not "stabilized output"



As an engineer, those drooping lines do not say "regulated" to me. They say "fail".


----------



## Mr. Tone

TweakMDS said:


> I got a bit impatient so ordered the D25C Clicky Ti in Nichia 219. If my wallet likes me next month I still might get the AA version as well, but the D25C is still very EDC-able.
> It'll probably be here tomorrow, so I'll post updates if I have anything useful to remark about it.



Ah, yes, how we all understand that problem.


----------



## Mr. Tone

fnj said:


> As an engineer, those drooping lines do not say "regulated" to me. They say "fail".



For the record, here is a quote taken directly from Eagletac's website about using li-ion batteries. They are open about the fact that the lights will not regulate with li-ion.

*"Using 4.2V li-ion direct drives the LED and yields maximum output at the expense of extensive heat generated from the LED. Limit each usage to less than fives minutes (or less than one minute each with freshly charged li-ion for the first couple times). Active cooling (blowing cool air toward the light) or passive cooling (holding the light in your hand) helps preventing excessive heat built at the LED. Turn off the light to allow it to cool down if you find the flashlight too hot to hold. Do not leave the light running unintended with li-ion. During direct drive, output at low and medium mode will be higher than normal."
*


----------



## jdto

TweakMDS said:


> I got a bit impatient so ordered the D25C Clicky Ti in Nichia 219. If my wallet likes me next month I still might get the AA version as well, but the D25C is still very EDC-able.
> It'll probably be here tomorrow, so I'll post updates if I have anything useful to remark about it.


My EDC is the 2013 D25C Ti Clicky NW XM-L2 and it's been great. Today my 2014 D25A N219 just arrived, so I'll be playing with that for a while. There's also the matter of the sharp edges around the lanyard holes again, so I'll be getting out the needle files for that.


----------



## Mr. Tone

jdto said:


> My EDC is the 2013 D25C Ti Clicky NW XM-L2 and it's been great. Today my 2014 D25A N219 just arrived, so I'll be playing with that for a while. There's also the matter of the sharp edges around the lanyard holes again, so I'll be getting out the needle files for that.



Were you using CR123A or li-ion?


----------



## jdto

Mr. Tone said:


> Were you using CR123A or li-ion?


I used CR123A initially, but recently switched to RCR123A LiFePO4 3.0v (the green logo Tenergy ones). For my usage, which is predominantly the lower-light settings, it has been wonderful.

For the D25A, I'll be using Eneloops, though it's on an Energizer Ultimate Lithium right now.


----------



## Mr. Tone

gotcha


----------



## cyclesport

TweakMDS said:


> I got a bit impatient so ordered the D25C Clicky Ti in Nichia 219. If my wallet likes me next month I still might get the AA version as well, but the D25C is still very EDC-able.
> It'll probably be here tomorrow, so I'll post updates if I have anything useful to remark about it.



I'd be interested to hear your impressions of the D25C/Nichia 219 w/ a Li-ion. I've got one on order but haven't seen anyone post comments about this version.


----------



## reppans

I was running some side-by-side low-/sub-lumen runtime tests and took an iPhone shot of the group on their ~3 lumen modes - thought it might make a good tint comparison pix, although cameras tend to exaggerate tints so take it FWIW..







L to R:
QPA-X, CW XML2
Peak El Cap, CW XPG?
'12 D25A Ti, NW XML1
'14 D25A Ti, N219B
L10, N219
QPA, N219 modded
SC52, CW XML1


----------



## shelm

Thanks reppans!!

On TLF the andreas just posted helpful beamshots too. Google Translate.


----------



## jdto

Nice shot, thanks for sharing.


----------



## RByers91

Goinggear has them back in stock. Just ordered one myself!


----------



## Southernlight

RByers91 said:


> Goinggear has them back in stock. Just ordered one myself!



I have a 2014 XM-L2 D25A Ti coming from another source but I am taking pot luck as to if its NW or CW and not really concerned.

Right now I am buying a mix of emitters to see out of what's currently available to judge how important the rendering of the beam is to me.
I'm also curious as to how all these react to my "warm walls" (paint colour) inside is compared to outside use.


----------



## RByers91

Southernlight said:


> I have a 2014 XM-L2 D25A Ti coming from another source but I am taking pot luck as to if its NW or CW and not really concerned.
> 
> Right now I am buying a mix of emitters to see out of what's currently available to judge how important the rendering of the beam is to me.
> I'm also curious as to how all these react to my "warm walls" (paint colour) inside is compared to outside use.



I accidentally ordered the 2014 XM-L2 D25C Ti originally and the led was just way to cool. Hopefully this will do much better.


----------



## jdto

My noob impressions after carrying the D25A N219 for half a day are as follows:

The size of the light is great. The extra slimness vs. the D25C is notable when it's in my pocket. The difference is just enough to make the D25A preferable when it's in the inside pocket of my blazer or in my jeans side pocket, but the extra length means it can ride up a bit when it's in the coin pocket of jeans, where I like to carry the D25C. I am a noob when it comes to tone and intensity, but I do notice that the N219 seems to be a bit less yellow than the XM-L2 NW in my 2013 D25C, so a bit more true to the actual colour of things. As my main use so far has been on either moonlight or medium, I find both lights are pretty good at those levels, but the extra brightness of the D25C is certainly notable when you go to the higher settings, which might come in handy. I wonder if the D25C N219 would be a good option. I didn't think it would matter, but now I'm curious. I guess that's how this turns into an addictive hobby, eh?


----------



## TweakMDS

Received my D25C with Nichia 219 yesterday. I have mixed feelings... 

A true middle mode is still missing, but no surprises there, I knew what I ordered.
The EagleTac logo on the light (as well as the instruction arrows on the opposite side) look like they were chiseled in with a sledgehammer and then sanded with some rough grain sandpaper. Very rough and very unlike my 2012 D25C Ti clicky or any of my other D25 titanium models. Perhaps it needs some polishing love, but at the same time I don't care all that much. It's easier to EDC for me if it's less than perfect looking out of the box 
The overall material seems darker, like it's a different type of titanium.
The Nichia 219's tint seems a bit on the cool side. I expected 4500-5000K color temperature. No measurement equipment handy, but this looks on the high side of 5500. You'll have to trust me on that one though, it's tricky to quantify color temperature against anything other than my camera and a gray card (uncalibrated).
The switch is a bit triggerhappy. Turning on and off is fine, but the mode changes happen at the lightest touch. Hoping it just needs to be broken in, although none of my earlier D25 clickies (and I have 5 other ones) needed this.
And on to some more positive findings:


The LED is perfectly centered and beam type is one of the best ones I have in all my lights.
The moonlight looks like actual moonlight this time, looks much dimmer than moonlight on the XM-L clickies.
They finally seem to have gotten it right with the threads. Most of the earlier clickies felt either gritty or had a brass head showing, but this one turns nicely.
Clip is still great.


----------



## jdto

I've noticed there is a sort of pre-flash with my D25A when turning on the light in moonlight mode. This doesn't happen in the other modes, so far. Is this normal?


----------



## Etsu

TweakMDS said:


> The Nichia 219's tint seems a bit on the cool side. I expected 4500-5000K color temperature. No measurement equipment handy, but this looks on the high side of 5500.





Are you sure about that? And, if you are, are you sure you got a Nichia 219 and not an XPG? 5500K is about the color temperature I measure on my cool-white XML2s and XPG2s. My 219 measures 4500K, and it's very noticeably warmer than the cool-white XML2 or XPG2. Have you looked at your LED to make sure it's really a 219?


----------



## TweakMDS

It doesn't look like an XP-G2, but it's possible that they messed up the labels on the box. How do you tell the difference between the 219 and the XP-G2.


----------



## shelm

TweakMDS said:


> How do you tell the difference between the 219 and the XP-G2.



Here my friend


----------



## reppans

jdto said:


> I've noticed there is a sort of pre-flash with my D25A when turning on the light in moonlight mode. This doesn't happen in the other modes, so far. Is this normal?



A little ~ 1 or 2 lumen "pop" is normal - pretty much all Quarks do the same on ML mode. A full 100-200 lumen true "pre-flash" some earlier Quarks have.... is just nasty.


----------



## jdto

reppans said:


> A little ~ 1 or 2 lumen "pop" is normal - pretty much all Quarks do the same on ML mode. A full 100-200 lumen true "pre-flash" some earlier Quarks have.... is just nasty.


Yeah, that's a better description, as the "pop" isn't much brighter than moonlight. It's not really a big deal, but it is noticeable. That said, my 2013 D25C Ti XM-L2 doesn't do the same thing. Is this only the D25A, or is it just a hit or miss thing as to whether your light will do it on a case by case basis?


----------



## Etsu

jdto said:


> Yeah, that's a better description, as the "pop" isn't much brighter than moonlight. It's not really a big deal, but it is noticeable. That said, my 2013 D25C Ti XM-L2 doesn't do the same thing. Is this only the D25A, or is it just a hit or miss thing as to whether your light will do it on a case by case basis?



I've noticed that all my clicky lights have a mild pre-flash, but my twisties do not. That probably has nothing to do with the mechanism, but it is interesting in my 1 anecdotal case.

Also, pre-flash tends to be worse if I just used a higher mode, then turn the light off and then back on in moonlight. If the light has been off awhile, the pre-flash is significantly dimmer. I think that's probably normal, as it likely has something to do with a capacitor discharging.


----------



## reppans

jdto said:


> Yeah, that's a better description, as the "pop" isn't much brighter than moonlight. It's not really a big deal, but it is noticeable. That said, my 2013 D25C Ti XM-L2 doesn't do the same thing. Is this only the D25A, or is it just a hit or miss thing as to whether your light will do it on a case by case basis?



I don't own any Cs, but have 4 As, and a half dozen low voltage Quarks in various flavors and run 3V CRAAs and 14500s in the latter. AFAIK, they all have that little pop on ML mode.


----------



## jdto

Etsu said:


> I've noticed that all my clicky lights have a mild pre-flash, but my twisties do not. That probably has nothing to do with the mechanism, but it is interesting in my 1 anecdotal case.
> 
> Also, pre-flash tends to be worse if I just used a higher mode, then turn the light off and then back on in moonlight. If the light has been off awhile, the pre-flash is significantly dimmer. I think that's probably normal, as it likely has something to do with a capacitor discharging.





reppans said:


> I don't own any Cs, but have 4 As, and a half dozen low voltage Quarks in various flavors and run 3V CRAAs and 14500s in the latter. AFAIK, they all have that little pop on ML mode.


Thanks for the replies. That sets my mind at ease that there's nothing defective.


----------



## reppans

This is what schizeckinosy mentioned about it in Quarks, he's a custom builder.


schizeckinosy said:


> I think I know why the drivers have such preflash - they have the biggest capacitors that I've ever seen. They are there to power the electronics while the switch is pressed to change modes, and I can only guess that they did not want the driver to forget where it was. I might try to see if a smaller cap gives less flash but still acceptable mode changes.


----------



## TweakMDS

FWIW, I just did some more checking on my N219 D25C, and it's definitely a Nichia 219. The tint is also much darker, but it looked very cool to my eye because I've been EDC-ing my D25C in neutral XM-L (which is definitely a warm white). In comparison it looks like cool white, but side by side with the cool white XM-L it's a huge difference. Just tested in a dark room and it's simply the great tint that is a Nichia 219 

Thanks for posting that one Shelm  I'll update my earlier posts or add another when I get some more use on it. Tomorrow morning (I start work around 7:15 and still plenty dark then) I'll bring out a few lights and see how they look at a distance in full dark.
The 2012 XM-L was always great for that because it's incredibly floody and bright.


----------



## Mr. Tone

That's the thing about these hi CRI Nichia 219. They are at the high range of "neutral white" and will seem cool compared to warmer tints but warm compared to cool white tints. It is a wonderful compromise in tint selection. You should also notice that there is not as much of a tint difference between the hotspot and spill as with the XM-L and XM-L2.


----------



## supra1988t

I have an XM-L2 D25C, can anyone tell me how much of a perceived difference there is in light output between the 219 and XML? Im guessing high on the 219 is similar to medium on the XML....?


----------



## cyclesport

supra1988t said:


> I have an XM-L2 D25C, can anyone tell me how much of a perceived difference there is in light output between the 219 and XML? Im guessing high on the 219 is similar to medium on the XML....?



Eagletac's site claims 300 Max at the LED and 200 ANSI for the D25C.


----------



## Etsu

supra1988t said:


> I have an XM-L2 D25C, can anyone tell me how much of a perceived difference there is in light output between the 219 and XML? Im guessing high on the 219 is similar to medium on the XML....?



The last time I looked at the spec sheets and did a back-of-the-envelope calculation, a XM-L2 U2 emitter is almost twice as efficient as a Nichia 219 when operated at moderately high brightness (in terms of lumens/watt). So, given the same wattage input, the Nichia 219 will be a little over half as bright as the XM-L2.

Of course, there's nothing stopping the manufacturer from driving the 219 higher to make up for the lower output, but that would cut into run time.

Also, the Nichia 219 is a much higher CRI tint, so you may not need as much output to see details (if a scene has a lot of color contrast).


----------



## 18650

Etsu said:


> The last time I looked at the spec sheets and did a back-of-the-envelope calculation, a XM-L2 U2 emitter is almost twice as efficient as a Nichia 219 when operated at moderately high brightness (in terms of lumens/watt). So, given the same wattage input, the Nichia 219 will be a little over half as bright as the XM-L2.
> 
> Of course, there's nothing stopping the manufacturer from driving the 219 higher to make up for the lower output, but that would cut into run time.
> 
> Also, the Nichia 219 is a much higher CRI tint, so you may not need as much output to see details (if a scene has a lot of color contrast).



219A B11 @ 700mA = ~200 lm
XM-L2 T6 @ 700mA = ~300 lm

219A B11 @ 1000mA = ~300 lm
XM-L2 T6 @ 1000mA = ~450 lm

219A B11 @ 1500mA = ~400 lm
XM-L2 T6 @ 1500mA = ~600 lm


----------



## reppans

reppans said:


> My only quibbles with the light are:
> - ML mode so far off spec (I like brighter moonlights 0.3+)



Just wanted update my earlier statement here. While runtime testing, I found the D25A's moonlight mode to be quite voltage sensitive. On a fresh Alk ~1.6v it will put out 0.5 lms, on 1.4v fresh Eneloops ~ 0.4 lms, on 1.25v middling Eneloops ~ 0.25/0.15 ('12 XML/'14 N219). 

Regulation is much better on the light's higher modes.


----------



## Etsu

18650 said:


> 219A B11 @ 700mA = ~200 lm
> XM-L2 T6 @ 700mA = ~300 lm
> 
> 219A B11 @ 1000mA = ~300 lm
> XM-L2 T6 @ 1000mA = ~450 lm
> 
> 219A B11 @ 1500mA = ~400 lm
> XM-L2 T6 @ 1500mA = ~600 lm



Don't forget that the voltage required to drive the 219 at high currents is quite a bit higher than the voltage for the XM-L2. So the wattage used is proportionately higher.


----------



## RByers91

TweakMDS said:


> Received my D25C with Nichia 219 yesterday. I have mixed feelings...
> 
> A true middle mode is still missing, but no surprises there, I knew what I ordered.
> The EagleTac logo on the light (as well as the instruction arrows on the opposite side) look like they were chiseled in with a sledgehammer and then sanded with some rough grain sandpaper. Very rough and very unlike my 2012 D25C Ti clicky or any of my other D25 titanium models. Perhaps it needs some polishing love, but at the same time I don't care all that much. It's easier to EDC for me if it's less than perfect looking out of the box
> The overall material seems darker, like it's a different type of titanium.
> The Nichia 219's tint seems a bit on the cool side. I expected 4500-5000K color temperature. No measurement equipment handy, but this looks on the high side of 5500. You'll have to trust me on that one though, it's tricky to quantify color temperature against anything other than my camera and a gray card (uncalibrated).
> The switch is a bit triggerhappy. Turning on and off is fine, but the mode changes happen at the lightest touch. Hoping it just needs to be broken in, although none of my earlier D25 clickies (and I have 5 other ones) needed this.
> And on to some more positive findings:
> 
> 
> The LED is perfectly centered and beam type is one of the best ones I have in all my lights.
> The moonlight looks like actual moonlight this time, looks much dimmer than moonlight on the XM-L clickies.
> They finally seem to have gotten it right with the threads. Most of the earlier clickies felt either gritty or had a brass head showing, but this one turns nicely.
> Clip is still great.


Are you using a li ion cell? Im using one and also don't seem to have a middle. It just goes low, high, high. Is that what you are referring to?


----------



## TweakMDS

RByers91 said:


> Are you using a li ion cell? Im using one and also don't seem to have a middle. It just goes low, high, high. Is that what you are referring to?



Exactly that, apparently it's been an issue with all of the D25C's. My 2012 XM-L has it as well. Actually not all that bothered by it. 95% of my use is in either moonlight or high (not turbo, but the 3rd mode with head loose).


----------



## shelm

the lampnetrolls posted also photos of D25C 2014 Titanium, let's see:



















animated: nichia - nw - cw - xpg2 - …






and the andreas did similar beamshot presentation of D25C 2014 Titanium, very goo thanks! :thumbsup:


----------



## RByers91

TweakMDS said:


> Exactly that, apparently it's been an issue with all of the D25C's. My 2012 XM-L has it as well. Actually not all that bothered by it. 95% of my use is in either moonlight or high (not turbo, but the 3rd mode with head loose).



I generally use the medium mode quite often, so I just opted to use a normal cr123. Still bright enough for EDC.


----------



## rdrfronty

TweakMDS said:


> Exactly that, apparently it's been an issue with all of the D25C's. My 2012 XM-L has it as well. Actually not all that bothered by it. 95% of my use is in either moonlight or high (not turbo, but the 3rd mode with head loose).


I have 2012, 2013, & 2014 D25C Ti's. Have tested all of them with 16340's and CR123's. Main physical differences - 2012 as an extra ring at its heatsink and has what I assume is Ti threads, silver anyway. The 2013 looses that extra ring at the heatsink. But the 2013 went with brass looking threads. Actually makes for a smoother action. The 2014 also does not have that extra ring at the heatsink. It now has a combo Ti and brass thread. The first thread or two are silver so that you do not see any brass showing when the light in not in the fully tight mode. Also the 2012 has a slightly deeper bezel vs the 2013 & 2014. Mine are all modded now with Sinkpads, and and the 2012 models are the only years that the bezel is still long enough to fully seat. No biggie there though. 
Function wise - the 2012 model spanks all other years in peak power. 2012 Ti and aluminum both test in the 2.0-2.1A at the tailcap. The 2013-2014 test slightly less. On all three XML 2012 D25C's I've tested, they are all in the 650-660 lumen range on IMR 16340's. The 2013 models - XML2 - about 550 lumens on IMR's. Haven't tested a 2014 xml2 version, only a xpg2 dedomed version. The 2013 XPG2 versions test in the 460-480 lumen range on IMR's. On the 2014 model, I have a XPG2 dedomed version, bumped by Vinh, that tests at 526 lumens. 
Now mode wise on IMR's. The 2012 versions have low and turbo when loose, and turbo and strobe when tight. The 2013 & 2014 models have low, medium, and turbo when loose and, turbo and strobe when tight. When I say turbo, with IMR with any model year you have the same high power level regardless if the head is tight or lose. No turbo "boost" obtained when tightening the head like when using the CR123 method.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
So to sum it up - 
2012 - extra ring, deeper bezel, Ti threads, appx 2.1A, low & turbo when loose, turbo & strobe when tight - on IMR.
2013 - no ring, brass threads, appx 1.8A, low, medium, & turbo when loose, turbo & strobe when tight - on IMR.
2014 - no ring, Ti and brass threads, appx 1.8A, low, medium, & turbo when loose, turbo & strobe when tight - on IMR.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
I base this personal testing I have done in my lightbox and on these models I own or have owned - 
2ea 2012 D25C Ti XML
1ea 2012 D25C alum XML
1ea 2013 D25C Ti XML2
2ea 2013 D25C Ti XPG2
1ea 2014 D25C Ti XPG2 (dedomed now)
And yes I LOVE D25C Ti's


----------



## lionken07

Anyone else waiting for GG on this? They told me 1-2 weeks and that was 20 days ago...


----------



## Lite_me

lionken07 said:


> Anyone else waiting for GG on this? They told me 1-2 weeks and that was 20 days ago...




What does your "this" refer to?

I'm waiting on a D25A Ti Nichia 219


----------



## Mr. Tone

lionken07 said:


> Anyone else waiting for GG on this? They told me 1-2 weeks and that was 20 days ago...



I think the Chinese holiday is causing some difficulty with any ETA right now.


----------



## lionken07

Lite_me said:


> What does your "this" refer to?
> 
> I'm waiting on a D25A Ti Nichia 219



I ordered one of each for the 2014 version. Nothing yet. GG told me 1-2 weeks and that was over 20 days ago. I'm hoping they will get them soon as I can't wait any longer! T.T


----------



## GrooveRite

Any discounts with GG?!


----------



## Mr. Tone

I just thought I would mention this for you Nichia 219 Hi CRI lovers. IlluminationGear has an exclusive offering of the D25A Clicky with the standard black aluminum body and the Nichia 219. I just ordered one and thought I would let you know since some of you might only be getting the titanium since it has the 219. That was my main reason for getting the 2014 ti but I sold it already because it was too pretty for me to actually use. Now I can have my cake and eat it, too. Here is where I ordered it.

http://www.illuminationgear.com/EagleTac-D25A-CLICKY-ETD25ARC.htm


----------



## shelm

Mr. Tone said:


> I just thought I would mention this for you Nichia 219 Hi CRI lovers. IlluminationGear has an exclusive offering of the



The D25LC2 Clicky (non-Ti) is available with Nichia 219 Hi CRI too, exclusive offering. About 34pcs are in stock, enough for everybody around the world :thumbsup:

http://ru.nkon.nl/eagletac-d25lc2-clicky-nichia-led.html


----------



## Lithium466

Does the D25LC2 has a REAL moonlight mode now?


----------



## Mr. Tone

Lithium466 said:


> Does the D25LC2 has a REAL moonlight mode now?



No, they still have a low of 8ish lumens IIRC. How I would love that light with a moonlight of less than .1 lumens!


----------



## netprince

Has anyone noticed how easily the clip bends on this light? I've had to remove the clip on my d25c and bend it back three times now...

Anyone know of a better clip?


----------



## shelm

i finally gathered the funds and placed the order. said FREE shipping so i went for it.

d25a clicky 2014 titanium xp-g2 (S2 bin) Nordic ice cool white 

i think XP-G die size is the perfect emitter for such small 1xAA lights. still nice throw, no flood.

and guaranteed no XM-L greenishness (we'll see  ).



anyone agree?


----------



## GrooveRite

I put my order in as well yesterday! A d25a Ti clicky xm-l2 NW for my brother and a d25c Ti clicky xm-l2 NW for myself! 

This will be my first Eagletac light!


----------



## kreisl

to whom it may concern, i just updated the 6 images in the brightness comparison. the 30sec ANSI-runs for SC52 were repeated 3 days ago and the best 2 lines (1xEneloop, 1x14500) were included in the first image for reference.

hope this helpz


----------



## reppans

kreisl said:


> to whom it may concern, i just updated the 6 images in the brightness comparison. the 30sec ANSI-runs for SC52 were repeated 3 days ago and the best 2 lines (1xEneloop, 1x14500) were included in the first image for reference.
> 
> hope this helpz



Those numbers (on a Fenix Lumen Scale) are proportionately consistent with what I come up with between the '12 D25A-XML and SC52. I personally use an ET/47s lumens scale and find the D25A to be ~125 lms (~listed spec) and SC52 ~200 lms, which is the same proportion as those Fenix lumen scale figures of 158 lms (D25A) and 251 lms (SC52). 

I also got the same result in a side-by-side test (post #472). D25A 75lms*2.5hrs=188lm-hrs spec vs SC52 108lms*3hrs=324lm-hrs spec.... a *72% *greater efficiency claim . However both have virtually identical output/runtime graphs - so much for ANSI FL1 spec standardization. :shakehead

So what's the true ANSI lumen scale? .... I think I'll stick with the only reviewer that can claim this:



ti-force said:


> For those of you who aren't aware, I have my own calibrated homemade integrating sphere (I have two, actually) for measuring lumen output of different lights. My sphere's have been calibrated using lights that were measured in a professional lab sphere, so my lumen results are very accurate.


----------



## shelm

All right, i got my D25A 2014 Ti yipeeh!

First thing i noticed when unscrewing the head was that the o-ring/spare o-ring (9.0×*1.0*×11.0mm) seemed too thin to fit in the groove (*1.3*mm width) properly and that the o-ring friction was very minimal, not enough for my liking. Not acceptable situation imho.

So i ordered a bunch of small o-rings from a specialized retailer and tried them on with installed battery, without and with Superlube Oil, here are my results:


*D25A 2014 Clicky Ti**w/o oil**w/ oil**notes*9.0 × 1.0 × 11.0mm
low frictionslipperyoriginal EagleTac packaged9.0 × 1.5 × 12.0mmno fittingno fittingtoo thick wtf10.0 × 1.5 × 13.0mmno fittingno fittingduh10.0 × 1.3 × 12.6mmno fitting_untested_dry doesn't fit so no good anyway10.0 × 1.0 × 12.0mm
good friction
smooth
w/ oil feels similar to original ET o-ring
11.0 × 1.0 × 13.0mm
much friction
smooth
w/ oil feels good
12.0 × 1.0 × 14.0mm
lots of friction
smooth
w/ oil feels similar to 11x1x13 o-ring
13.0 × 1.0 × 15.0mm_untested__untested_didn't buy duh

From the above table we learn that 3 o-ring sizes are more suitable than the original 9x1x11 pick by EagleTac packagers. _Without _lube, the 10x1x12 seems the best compromise between friction and UI operability, however considering the broader width of the 2014 groove (compared to my 2013 sample!) and that _with _lube the head still rotates too easily for my liking, feels similar to the original ET o-ring, the imho even better pick is the 11x1x13 o-ring. So to speak it is a refined matter of taste if you prefer the 10mm or the 11mm o-ring!

My take is, the 11x1x13 fills in the 1.3mm wide groove better and feels nicely smooth —the head could not accidentally twist in the pocket as with oiled 9x1x11 or oiled 10x1x12— with Superlube Oil. Also much better water resistance than the original oiled 9x1x11!! Interestingly, the 12x1x14 feels kinda smooth too with enough oil .. and i would definitely rate it as "fits okay!". 

In summary, i'd recommend the 10x1x12 to _2013 _Ti owners and either the 10x1x12 or my preferred 11x1x13 to _2014 _Ti owners. Oiled 12x1x14 is a safer choice than oiled 9x1x11 but neither are as recommendable as the aforementioned two middle o-ring sizes, oiled or bone-dry.


----------



## GrooveRite

Thanks for the chart Shelm! How is the Superlube working for you? I've been doing some reading on lubes for Titanium threads and the preferred choice seems to be Krytox 50/50. Many seem to also like Superlube but others point out that its too thick and not great for Ti. What do you think?


----------



## shelm

Thanks man.
I have Superlube Grease, standard formulation, and Superlube Oil and Nano-Oil. I don't think high of the grease, it is basically the cheapest non-no-name lube you can find in the US which outperforms the sticky no-name silicone grease stuff. I like the oil much better on small lights, keychain lights and such. I could certainly recommend Superlube Oil t/a D25A *Clicky *Ti. The whole point is, the clicky Ti is a clicky, not a twisty like the D25A *Mini *Ti. So the clicky Ti doesn't get much twisting action and therefore metal abrasion (titanium female, brass male) is less than on the mini Ti. There still remains notable amount of abrasion but i try not to get frustrated about it.

On a twisty Ti light, say ITP A3 EOS Titanium, i am convinced that no lube would satisfy _me_. After my experience with Ti lights, i will never again buy a twisty Ti light. Clicky Ti's are fine, though: The D25A Clicky Ti is heaven-sent. And it doesn't matter much if one uses the SL grease or the SL oil. I'd favor the oil, though. Nano-Oil works too but it is based on mineral oils. Great for threads, not the best for o-rings.

:huh:

I never tried Krytox. 
And yes i totally agree, in general Superlube Grease is too thick for thin/fine Titanium threads (or bare aluminum threads).


----------



## GrooveRite

shelm said:


> Thanks man.
> I have Superlube Grease, standard formulation, and Superlube Oil and Nano-Oil. I don't think high of the grease, it is basically the cheapest non-no-name lube you can find in the US which outperforms the sticky no-name silicone grease stuff. I like the oil much better on small lights, keychain lights and such. I could certainly recommend Superlube Oil t/a D25A *Clicky *Ti. The whole point is, the clicky Ti is a clicky, not a twisty like the D25A *Mini *Ti. So the clicky Ti doesn't get much twisting action and therefore metal abrasion (titanium female, brass male) is less than on the mini Ti. There still remains notable amount of abrasion but i try not to get frustrated about it.
> 
> On a twisty Ti light, say ITP A3 EOS Titanium, i am convinced that no lube would satisfy _me_. After my experience with Ti lights, i will never again buy a twisty Ti light. Clicky Ti's are fine, though: The D25A Clicky Ti is heaven-sent. And it doesn't matter much if one uses the SL grease or the SL oil. I'd favor the oil, though. Nano-Oil works too but it is based on mineral oils. Great for threads, not the best for o-rings.
> 
> :huh:
> 
> I never tried Krytox.
> And yes i totally agree, in general Superlube Grease is too thick for thin/fine Titanium threads (or bare aluminum threads).



Thanks for the info! I'm going to give the Superlube Oil a shot since Krytox seems to be quite expensive!


----------



## shelm

please report then how _you _like it on the Clicky Ti. ~5$ from amazon shipped. nice price.


----------



## Shiftyk5

Received my 2014 d25a ti clicky this week. Loving it so far. Never would have known about it if not for this forum. 

Only complaint in is the sharp edges around the clicky area


----------



## shelm

Shiftyk5 said:


> the sharp edges around the clicky area



Their sharp on my 2014 clicky Ti too.

And rounded off on my 2013 clicky Ti, perfect.


Maybe our 2014 production samples are from the same lot where the factory worker returned to work on a Monday from an excessive long party weekend.


----------



## jdto

Shiftyk5 said:


> Received my 2014 d25a ti clicky this week. Loving it so far. Never would have known about it if not for this forum.
> 
> Only complaint in is the sharp edges around the clicky area



I had sharp edges in that area on both my 2013 D25C Ti and 2014 D25A Ti. Both the edges around the clicky and the lanyard hole were quite sharp. I spent some time with some needle files smoothing them out and it made a nice difference in comfort and less hard on my jeans while in the pocket.


----------



## blackFFM

The edges on my 2014 D25C are so sharp I actually cut myself. Eagtac should address this issue and the terrible mode spacing at least in the next run. The modes with 16340s in the Nichia version are a joke. All I can select is low-turbo-turbo-turbo or moon light-turbo-turbo-turbo.


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

Got my 2014 D25A Ti NW XM-L today. Although it _is _neutral, the spill and corona have a pretty obvious blue tint to them, not noticeable though unless white-wall hunting.

However, the light has a very audible squeal from the driver on low and medium when used with a Li-Ion 14500, anyone else experienced this? I've read about such a squeal noise many times but over my dozens of lights I've never experienced it. It's quite annoying as I plan on using 14500 almost exclusively with this light. Anyway to get rid of it? I assume not :-(

EDIT: I switched it to the lower set of modes and now it only squeals on medium (just as well, I'd assume have the lowest low setting instead of the higher low setting). So I half-way solved it!


----------



## blackFFM

ThirstyTurtle said:


> However, the light has a very audible squeal from the driver on low and medium when used with a Li-Ion 14500, anyone else experienced this? I've read about such a squeal noise many times but over my dozens of lights I've never experienced it. It's quite annoying as I plan on using 14500 almost exclusively with this light. Anyway to get rid of it? I assume not :-(
> 
> EDIT: I switched it to the lower set of modes and now it only squeals on medium (just as well, I'd assume have the lowest low setting instead of the higher low setting). So I half-way solved it!



I can her it only when I hold them next to my ear or when it's really silent. All my D25s have it.


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

blackFFM said:


> I can her it only when I hold them next to my ear or when it's really silent. All my D25s have it.



Hmmm...my older aluminum D25A doesn't make any noise...


----------



## jdto

My D25A seems to have disappeared  No sign of it in any of the usual places I would put it and it isn't on the floor of the car (where I spent a fair pint of time this afternoon). When I went to grab it, I noticed it was not clipped in my pocket in its customary spot. The slim design and the nice colour of the N219 had made that light my default EDC. I'm going to hold out hope for a couple of days before trying to get a replacement. Sigh...


----------



## Frank2818

I received a 2014 Eagletac dc25a clicky ti but it doesn't have the "Eagletac limited edition" logo on the light. Is this common ,a manufacturing omission or did I maybe get a used/returned light?


----------



## ChrisGarrett

I finally ended up going with a D25C Ti XM-L2 U2 for my first ET light.

Might be here tomorrow. I hope that I chose wisely, as the old knight stated.

Chris


----------



## OfficerCamp

You chose wisely indeed. Great little light for EDC and very usable modes. 
Enjoy!


----------



## lionken07

Looks like the N219 2014 Eagletacs been out of stock for a few months now. Hmm...


----------



## shelm

Frank2818 said:


> it doesn't have the "Eagletac limited edition" logo on the light.



That's abnormal. On all of my Ti's, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 it has the "Eagletac limited edition" logo on the light!



lionken07 said:


> Looks like the N219 2014 Eagletacs been out of stock for a few months now.



Limited Edition :devil:


----------



## bub

Out of all these lights I found the clicky Ti the best.


----------



## GrooveRite

bub said:


> Out of all these lights I found the clicky Ti the best.



I will concur as far as my D25C Ti clicky being the best of my bunch as well! A really well made, beautiful light with great functionality! Glad I have it!


----------



## ven

I have also got the ti addiction,absolutely love them,1st was a d25cvn de-dome using IMR16340 cell...........so tiny,so bright whats not to like

Loved it it that much i got the d25a ti off vinh,standard form,eneloop fed as dont want to run a 14500 in it as dont need to......simple as that.








Great lights,my edc is the d25cvn and cant see it changing tbh,not in the near future for sure!!!!


----------



## bub

The one thing I wish was that they or some one could insert a magnet around the clicky then hands down I could see no point in having the S10. 

To day I used the D25 mini it just does not have the same feel of the clicky Ti. There is play in the head you have to turn it another 20deg to make sure it does not come on. The clicky Ti head is like a switch you only have to move it 5-10 deg to switch modes. Like I have said in other posts I just do not know how they do it for the price.


----------



## ven

bub said:


> The clicky Ti head is like a switch you only have to move it 5-10 deg to switch modes. Like I have said in other posts I just do not know how they do it for the price.



Dont say that!! they will put the price up :laughing: and in truth it would be still worth it


----------



## Stockhouse13

Definitely. My D25C Clicky Ti w/ Neutral Led is a great little light. Amazed that they are able to get that NW down to around 4200K, especially with a smooth reflector. Makes my Nichia 219 from Nailbender look pretty cool. LOL.

I really am amazed with the little light everytime I turn it on at night.


----------



## shelm

bub said:


> To day I used the D25 mini it just does not have the same feel of the clicky Ti. There is play in the head you have to turn it another 20deg to make sure it does not come on. The clicky Ti head is like a switch you only have to move it 5-10 deg to switch modes.



I agree that there used to be play in the Ti Mini and the early Ti Clickies, up to 2013. 
But in my 2014 sample there is no more such play, even with o-ring removed!

This is a little constructional detail but they really took care of it. With the 2013 Ti Clicky i always had to fear losing the not wobbly yet ~loose head in its loosened position. Without the too thin btw dimensioned o-ring the 2013 head was indeed somewhat wobbly.

No more such complaints with the 2014 construction.

Eatac to the win! :sleepy:


----------



## bub

Just out of interest does anyone know were I can get the hex key for the clip. Think I have seen 1.55mm banded around on here. I am in the uk and have tried several hex key manufactures like wera but no luck. I was going to email EagleTac directly if no luck in getting one easily.


----------



## reppans

1/16th SAE is a hair larger than 1.55mm (so safer from stripping if it fits at all) and works great on my D25A Ti


----------



## jdto

I think I'm cursed with this 2014 D25A. After losing my first one, I ordered another one and they delivered it to the wrong place. Now I've got Canada Post opening an investigation to see if it turns up. :sick2:


----------



## ven

jdto said:


> I think I'm cursed with this 2014 D25A. After losing my first one, I ordered another one and they delivered it to the wrong place. Now I've got Canada Post opening an investigation to see if it turns up. :sick2:




:mecry:Buy a lottery ticket next week.....

It will be worth the wait as you know,I try and look on the bright side... It's still something to look forward too,can't beat waiting for a light as you know it's just around the corner.......well maybe a tad further but it will get there in the end.Just don't loose this one !!!!!


----------



## jdto

ven said:


> :mecry:Buy a lottery ticket next week.....
> 
> It will be worth the wait as you know,I try and look on the bright side... It's still something to look forward too,can't beat waiting for a light as you know it's just around the corner.......well maybe a tad further but it will get there in the end.Just don't loose this one !!!!!



I hope you're right. My faith in Canada Post's ability to track this one down is not exactly overflowing.


----------



## bub

reppans said:


> 1/16th SAE is a hair larger than 1.55mm (so safer from stripping if it fits at all) and works great on my D25A Ti



Thanks will try it out.


----------



## jdto

jdto said:


> I hope you're right. My faith in Canada Post's ability to track this one down is not exactly overflowing.


My faith has been somewhat restored. The light showed up yesterday and is now riding in my inside jacket pocket :twothumbs


----------



## Southernlight

bub said:


> Out of all these lights I found the clicky Ti the best.



Hey bub, whats that on the far left? I don't recognize it.


----------



## Lithium466

Fenix E15?


----------



## bub

Yep E15 good keychain light. Wish it went L-M-H. So not so good for EDC.


----------



## ven

jdto said:


> My faith has been somewhat restored. The light showed up yesterday and is now riding in my inside jacket pocket :twothumbs




Congrats,all good things come to those who wait...............i am sure its been worth the wait:twothumbs


----------



## lionken07

3 months wait and they are finally here! D25c Ti and D25A Ti both in 219 Nichia!! Let's just say that I LOVE the color of the LED.


----------



## supra1988t

Just got my first 219 Nichia light, D25C. Loving the color rendition, missing the output of the XML2. Cant have it all.


----------



## mcnair55

Lithium466 said:


> Fenix E15?





bub said:


> Yep E15 good keychain light. Wish it went L-M-H. So not so good for EDC.



I thought this thread was about the Eagletac?


----------



## bub

mcnair55 said:


> I thought this thread was about the Eagletac?



If you read the page before a member asked what the other light was in my photo. It was a E15


----------



## ven

lionken07 said:


> 3 months wait and they are finally here! D25c Ti and D25A Ti both in 219 Nichia!! Let's just say that I LOVE the color of the LED.



WOW 3 months.........that must have ben painful,i find anything over a week bad enough :laughing:

Congrats on you beautiful d25c and d25a ti:thumbsup:


----------



## Lord Muzzy

Just ordered a D25c Ti, my first eagletac and my first titanium light! I have even bought a new doorbell, because for some reason my postman knocks on the door with a feather duster.

He hates leaving my parcels but loves leaving those annoying little notes 'while you were out I tried to deliver your shiny new torch, (I was in bed or the kitchen, knock louder!!!) wait 24 hours and go to postal depot which may or may not be open... Grrr.. ' I'll catch him this time....


----------



## bub

You will not be disappointed. It is my favourite light out of my collection. So much better than the mini.


----------



## ven

Lord Muzzy said:


> Just ordered a D25c Ti, my first eagletac and my first titanium light! I have even bought a new doorbell, because for some reason my postman knocks on the door with a feather duster.
> 
> He hates leaving my parcels but loves leaving those annoying little notes 'while you were out I tried to deliver your shiny new torch, (I was in bed or the kitchen, knock louder!!!) wait 24 hours and go to postal depot which may or may not be open... Grrr.. ' I'll catch him this time....




We have the same postman?................................

:laughing:
Congrats on the light


----------



## Glofindel

Lord Muzzy said:


> Just ordered a D25c Ti, my first eagletac and my first titanium light! I have even bought a new doorbell, because for some reason my postman knocks on the door with a feather duster.
> 
> He hates leaving my parcels but loves leaving those annoying little notes 'while you were out I tried to deliver your shiny new torch, (I was in bed or the kitchen, knock louder!!!) wait 24 hours and go to postal depot which may or may not be open... Grrr.. ' I'll catch him this time....



If you caught him teach him some lessons. lol. just kidding pls don't.

I try to make friend to postman and other delivery person. Now my parcels always turn up. I know it is their job but if they personally know you is better.


----------



## mckeand13

Can anybody post close up pics of the 2014 D25A Ti clicky threads? I'm thinking of a Ti model to replace my aluminum D25A clicky so I can get a Nichia 219 and avoid the aluminum goo.

The threads on my aluminum D25A aren't the best in my book. They are cut very shallow, with tiny peaks which leads to a little bit of a wobbly head which irks me. It also seems like the aluminum is very soft and requires constant cleaning and lubing. By the looks of it, they can't be a standard thread. They look like some sort of a cross between an ACME and UNF. Sharp crest but wide pitch. Just weird.

I'd like to see if the 2014 D25A ti clicky versions are made any differently before I make the decision.

Thanks.


----------



## kreisl

mckeand13 said:


> I'd like to see if the 2014 D25A ti clicky versions



freshly taken pic by me. D25A Clicky 2014 Ti.
click to enlarge, you're welcome




sorry for the dirty pic. ssa dan anne druff :sick2:

try it again:


----------



## eff

mckeand13 said:


> Can anybody post close up pics of the 2014 D25A Ti clicky threads? I'm thinking of a Ti model to replace my aluminum D25A clicky so I can get a Nichia 219 and avoid the aluminum goo.
> 
> The threads on my aluminum D25A aren't the best in my book. They are cut very shallow, with tiny peaks which leads to a little bit of a wobbly head which irks me. It also seems like the aluminum is very soft and requires constant cleaning and lubing. By the looks of it, they can't be a standard thread. They look like some sort of a cross between an ACME and UNF. Sharp crest but wide pitch. Just weird.
> 
> I'd like to see if the 2014 D25A ti clicky versions are made any differently before I make the decision.
> 
> Thanks.



Do you mean your D25A head is wobbly when completely screwed on ? I don't have this issue with the 2014 version


----------



## shelm

Body threads of aluminum D25A are male, soft aluminum and fine, body threads of titanium D25A 2014 are female, titanium and resistant. Both thread types get dirty fast due to abrasion and lack of anodization. On the 2014-Ti, the threads are no question of concern, just check if the female threads are unbroken, i.e. with no defective areas, and check if the head-vs.-body fit is nice: there _should _be no gap when the head is fully tightened, as seen in Japan:


or in English:


Also check my post on the o-ring. I found it myself :laughing: very helpful. lol


----------



## silverskate

Do these "limited edition" titanium Eagletac's come out every year? I am interested in the d25a nichia model and I'm only seeing availability at Eagletac's site. However I do not want to order from them as their shipping is quite expensive to the United States.

Btw I'm new here.

Cheers!


----------



## defloyd77

silverskate said:


> Do these "limited edition" titanium Eagletac's come out every year? I am interested in the d25a nichia model and I'm only seeing availability at Eagletac's site. However I do not want to order from them as their shipping is quite expensive to the United States.
> 
> Btw I'm new here.
> 
> Cheers!



Check out Illumination Gear, they have it with the 219a. Also, if you would like to use their 8% CPF discount, shoot lebox97 a private message so they can have your CPF info on file. They refund you that after your payment clears.


----------



## silverskate

Thanks for the heads up *defloyd*. Too bad Illumination Gear is back-ordered :help:


----------



## defloyd77

silverskate said:


> Thanks for the heads up *defloyd*. Too bad Illumination Gear is back-ordered :help:




Oh shoot, they had them in stock when I posted that.


----------



## regulator

shelm said:


> i finally gathered the funds and placed the order. said FREE shipping so i went for it.
> 
> d25a clicky 2014 titanium xp-g2 (S2 bin) Nordic ice cool white
> 
> i think XP-G die size is the perfect emitter for such small 1xAA lights. still nice throw, no flood.
> 
> and guaranteed no XM-L greenishness (we'll see  ).
> 
> 
> 
> anyone agree?



Hi Shelm - How is the tint on your XPG2?


----------



## shelm

Hi regulator, 

the tint on my XP-G2 S2 is similar to the tint of other XP-G2's i've seen so far, Olights O'Pen, Thrunit T10S and Archer. It has that nordic artic feel to it, brrrhh  
no hints of green, looks artificial pure white, and rather blueish against reference lights. since it isn't greenish, i like it. the beam does fade out colors but i prefer the nice throw to the unthrowy dim Nichia beam.

i had checked the Nichia. the tint is super nice, natural warm, but the beam isn't impressive.

the XP-G2 beam is impressive. someone had reposted beamshot comparison earlier and i can tell you that those shots nail it. perfect representation of the situation.


----------



## regulator

Thanks Shelm. I just ordered a D25A mini with the XPG2. I don't mind a nice white cool tint so long as it is not greenish. I avoided all lights with XPG-S2's since many seemed to suffer from green tint. I like the output levels that the mini has and especially the medium mode. If the titanium clicky version has a similar mode, I would have got that.


----------



## bub

I have the D25C Ti and looking at the D25A Ti has any one tried RC123/16340 or 14500 in the A type. These lights should put out a lot of power with these high power cells. I know the ins and outs of these cells but what affects does these cells have on the output levels?


----------



## ven

Great pic bub i have both,only use 16340 IMR cells in my d25cvn,in my d25a ti i have used an AA eneloop,now has a keeppower 14500 in it(or efest 14500).Difference,well all the modes are there still on the d25a,but brighter,by how much i dont know.Can not measure the lux but at a guestimate 2,maybe 3 times as bright...........not sure.

On highest it does kick out some light, so i prefer the 14500,if you like your low low then eneloop would probably be the choice for you.

Great lights

Edit-pic




the d25cvn is de-domed and boosted,gets warm quick,the d25a is standard(off vinh though),this can be on turbo for longer due to not being pushed as much


----------



## bub

ven said:


> Great pic bub i have both,only use 16340 IMR cells in my d25cvn,in my d25a ti i have used an AA eneloop,now has a keeppower 14500 in it(or efest 14500).Difference,well all the modes are there still on the d25a,but brighter,by how much i dont know.Can not measure the lux but at a guestimate 2,maybe 3 times as bright...........not sure.
> 
> On highest it does kick out some light, so i prefer the 14500,if you like your low low then eneloop would probably be the choice for you.
> 
> Great lights



Thanks for the info Ven.


----------



## ven

Welcome bub  sure someone will be along with more accurate findings but appears around at least twice as bright certainly noticeable:thumbsup:


----------



## bub

I love the moonlight mode so I would be reluctant to give this up. Does these cells still allow moonlight mode?


----------



## ven

bub said:


> I love the moonlight mode so I would be reluctant to give this up. Does these cells still allow moonlight mode?



No unfortunately,it is too bright for moonlight.

Stick a loop in for night/house use,for fun out and about feed it a 14500 

Or of course buy 2 and that is allowed as your a member of CPF which makes it completely normal :laughing:

The thrunite t10t makes a nice night light,0.2l iirc on lowest(can not eat Li ion food so an AA eneloop is perfect),could have that for you moonlight,and have the d25a with 14500 in for brighter times............just a thought

As its an ET thread,d25a ti is in the middle,T10t on the right(comes in NW or CW)


----------



## bub

Yep just ordered the D25ATi so witch to run high? The C with RC123 or the A with a 14500. As I will keep the other light for moonlight lol. There are just so many decisions to make 😉. Which one is best the RC123 or 14500? In these lights? Recommendations please?


----------



## gunga

Hey guys. Do the newer 2013 or 2014 D25a have preflash on moonlight mode? I heard about that.


----------



## shelm

bub said:


> Which one is best the RC123 or 14500? In these lights? Recommendations please?



I don't know if it's the best but i use Trustfire Flames 14500 .
There are not many top quality RCR123 cells on the market. I have Nitcor RCR123A cell. Poor stuff if you ask me :ironic:


----------



## ven

Along with keeppowers i find efest good cells,well priced too,iirc the v1 are flat and v2 button top(ones i have are v2 button)




These are fine in the d25c and d25a .

Also pic of keeppower 14500 and a loop


----------



## gunga

So no preflash?


----------



## shelm

gunga said:


> So no preflash?



let's say this way. moonlight mode be 0.5lm. then the preflash is 1.5lm.
if you call 1.5lm a preflash, then yes the D25A 2014 has it on the 0.5lm moonlight mode.

sorry for the bad views


----------



## bub

Thanks for all the info. 

What is preflash?


----------



## reppans

Pre-flash is when a light momentarily flashes a brighter output than the low mode you've selected. My '12 XML D25As have a low output pre-flash on moonlight mode, but my '14 N219 does not. That said, all my D25As have regulation issues on moonlight mode due to voltage sensitivity.


----------



## SCEMan

My 2014 D25A Ti XM-L2 does not preflash with any battery type :thumbsup:


----------



## bub

I have not seen that on any of my lights thanks for the info. Hope I never get it or I will hate that light. I use moonlight every night hence why I only ever use lights in my collection with moonlight, others just stay in my backpack. 😜


----------



## gunga

Great info. Thanks all!


----------



## bub

Just got in D25A Ti in and some 14500 & RCR123. First time with rechargeable. Will have to test tonight as today is the hottest day of the year so far here.


----------



## bub

Just tried the D25A Ti with 14500 3.7V 750mAh EagleTac and it does eliminate the moonlight mode. But the good news is the D25C Ti with AW ICR123 750mAh still has moonlight mode which is good news.


----------



## Lite_me

Just received my D25A Ti Nichia 219 that has been on back-order since Jan. :thumbsup: Fit & finish looks very nice. I'll be running a 14500 in it. Besides being brighter, it looks a little whiter with it.


----------



## Espionage Studio

bub said:


> Yep just ordered the D25ATi so witch to run high? The C with RC123 or the A with a 14500. As I will keep the other light for moonlight lol. There are just so many decisions to make . Which one is best the RC123 or 14500? In these lights? Recommendations please?



I am also curious about this, all things being equal as far as both lights using same emitter, both with 4.2v fresh li-ions, will the high output be the same on both the A and the C, or will the C model have an edge?


----------



## kbuzbee

Espionage Studio said:


> I am also curious about this, all things being equal as far as both lights using same emitter, both with 4.2v fresh li-ions, will the high output be the same on both the A and the C, or will the C model have an edge?



I run my D25Cs on IMRs. Nice and bright but they still do moonlight. Perfect EDC as far as I'm concerned.







Ken


----------



## Espionage Studio

How do the high modes with the head all the way tight compare between the two?


----------



## bub

Espionage Studio said:


> I am also curious about this, all things being equal as far as both lights using same emitter, both with 4.2v fresh li-ions, will the high output be the same on both the A and the C, or will the C model have an edge?



Please see my last post

Just tried the D25A Ti with 14500 3.7V 750mAh EagleTac and it does eliminate the moonlight mode. But the good news is the D25C Ti with AW ICR123 750mAh still has moonlight mode which is good news.


----------



## Espionage Studio

Thank you for the information guys, I realize the moonlight mode is there on the d25c but my question is which one is brighter on high, both using Li-ion batteries. Are they going to be the same on high with a fresh 4.2v cell? Thanks again!


----------



## blackFFM

Espionage Studio said:


> Thank you for the information guys, I realize the moonlight mode is there on the d25c but my question is which one is brighter on high, both using Li-ion batteries. Are they going to be the same on high with a fresh 4.2v cell? Thanks again!



They are both the same. If there is any difference it isn't visible for the human eye.


----------



## bub

blackFFM said:


> They are both the same. If there is any difference it isn't visible for the human eye.



Yep cannot tell the difference between the Ti 2014 D25C or A type in max mode. Could do with someone to check them with a light box. If the C type is set to moonlight mode and you jump up to mid level you get a shock and your night vision is gone very quick. Lol


----------



## TweakMDS

I have the D25C clicky Ti 2014 version with Nichia 219; that one's quite a bit dimmer than my older XM-L warm (2012 version I think), but both have some great features. Advantage of the dimmer nichia is that the modes are spaced a bit better in my eye.


----------



## Espionage Studio

Thanks for the info! I have a D25A Ti, which is one of the best bang for the buck edc lights in my opinion. I love the form factor! My buddy wanted to get a D25C because the box says it is brighter, I told him that is most likely if both lights are powered by their respective primary cells. If ran on Li-ions the D25A will be about the same was my assumption, thanks for confirming that blackFFM. I like the flexibility of the D25A in that you also get the advantage of running Eneloops, or scrounging up a standard AA out of the tv remote if in a pinch.


----------



## ven

Espionage Studio said:


> Thanks for the info! I have a D25A Ti, which is one of the best bang for the buck edc lights in my opinion. I love the form factor! My buddy wanted to get a D25C because the box says it is brighter, I told him that is most likely if both lights are powered by their respective primary cells. If ran on Li-ions the D25A will be about the same was my assumption, thanks for confirming that blackFFM. I like the flexibility of the D25A in that you also get the advantage of running Eneloops, or scrounging up a standard AA out of the tv remote if in a pinch.




Come on mr espionage,you should know you need both:devil:
efest IMR 16340 or KeepPower 16340 cells


----------



## Espionage Studio

spoken like a true flashaholic ;-)


----------



## vernSL

Love these lights. Have a D25C Ti in XM-L2 U2 and just ordered a Nichia 219 version which should be here tomorrow.


----------



## kbuzbee

Espionage Studio said:


> I have a D25A Ti, which is one of the best bang for the buck edc lights in my opinion. I love the form factor! My buddy wanted to get a D25C because the box says it is brighter, I told him that is most likely if both lights are powered by their respective primary cells. If ran on Li-ions the D25A will be about the same was my assumption, thanks for confirming that blackFFM.



All 4 of my D25Cs are brighter than my D25A both on IMRs. Even the Nichia DC25Cs are brighter (which surprised me) Could just be something with my D25A I suppose. My D25A is HA not Ti. XL-L2 neutral.

That and keeping Moonlight on a 16340 make the D25C a better light for my needs.

Ken


----------



## Espionage Studio

So Ken, just to confirm your d25A is a 2014 model? Mine is a newly purchased xml2 in neutral tint but seems plenty bright, my friend just wants to "one up" me and have the brightest one so he is considering the D25C.


----------



## kbuzbee

Espionage Studio said:


> So Ken, just to confirm your d25A is a 2014 model?



Arrived Monday from IG. I assume it's 2014.



Espionage Studio said:


> Mine is a newly purchased xml2 in neutral tint but seems plenty bright,



Same as mine. It's plenty bright, just not AS bright as my D25Cs. Especially the vn XP-L. That one blows it away. 

I really hate having to make a choice between highest high 14500 and moonlight (primaries) when the D25C on IMR 16340s gives me both.



Espionage Studio said:


> my friend just wants to "one up" me and have the brightest one so he is considering the D25C.



If he really wants to one up you (or most CR123 format lights) have him send Vinh an email. He'll be good to go.



Ken


----------



## recDNA

Sometimes when I loosen the head my d25c does not go to the dimmer mode I have set. Is there any particular place I need to clean or anything? Do I use alcohol or what? Thanks


----------



## ven

Have you got it on memory,maybe if you loosen tighten 3x (or tighten loosen as i forget now) it will stop memory and always reverts to low


----------



## ven

Here it is
[h=5]Programmable settings[/h]1) Moonlight output (disable by default) - disable or enable the moonlight output. The entire output range of the group 1 output will be shifted to a brighter output set or a dimmer output set accordingly. Toggle this setting starting with head loosen, turn on the light, and then repeat tight and loose for three times.

2) Mode memory - remebers the last output of the group 1. To toggle this setting, with head tighten, turn on the light, and repeat loose and tight for three times.


----------



## newbie66

Anyone tested the waterproofing? I tested mine with a 2 minute dip and shaked it a bit in water. Found out that water entered the threads.


----------



## shelm

newbie66 said:


> Anyone tested the waterproofing? I tested mine with a 2 minute dip and shaked it a bit in water. Found out that water entered the threads.



i exchanged the o-ring for more friction
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ac-Clicky-Ti&p=4383070&viewfull=1#post4383070


----------



## newbie66

shelm said:


> i exchanged the o-ring for more friction
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ac-Clicky-Ti&p=4383070&viewfull=1#post4383070




Ok I tried replacing the o-ring with a spare from a Fenix E05 and it seems to be okay except that immediately after lubing it with Super Lube grease there was quite a bit of black stuff when I touch it.


----------



## shelm

Is yours the 2014 or the 2013 Ti model?

The E05 Fenix is a smaller light and its spare o-ring does not have the dimensions as suggested by the post 

Black stuff .. i dunno what to say


----------



## newbie66

shelm said:


> Is yours the 2014 or the 2013 Ti model?
> 
> The E05 Fenix is a smaller light and its spare o-ring does not have the dimensions as suggested by the post
> 
> Black stuff .. i dunno what to say




Mine is the 2014 model. Just bought yesterday. The black stuff is like the dirt you get from an o-ring after prolonged use I think.


----------



## ven

I have had that "black stuff" on quite a few lights,including the d25 lights,sure its with the lube and metal. I just cleaned the threads up with a cotton bud,seems to improve once cleaned up. I originally thought it was on just the alloy lights but obv not.............


----------



## bub

I only seem to get the black stuff on the light I am using at that time. Takes about 5-10 day to build up. As a CNC machine tool engineer I see a lot of o-rings damaged, a lot flip and look like they delaminate but this is under 60bar of hydraulic pressure. I have seen this black stuff in small cylinders that are at a dead end of the system but the O-ring shows signs of damage these do not yet show any. I am just using some very light-wait oil so I was thinking it was melting the o-ring. Lol It looks to black to be dirt out of my pocket so goodness knows?


----------



## newbie66

ven said:


> I have had that "black stuff" on quite a few lights,including the d25 lights,sure its with the lube and metal. I just cleaned the threads up with a cotton bud,seems to improve once cleaned up. I originally thought it was on just the alloy lights but obv not.............



Hmmm, will need to use for a while to see if there is any degradation on the o-ring. The Fenix E05 does have a thicker o-ring compared to the D25A despite being smaller. If things does not seem alright may switch back to stock o-ring. :thinking:


----------



## Espionage Studio

I have had 3 different eagletacs d25's that I have checked on, they all had badly degraded o-rings pretty quickly after purchase. Not so much the business end, but the tail end would always be all cracked and brittle. I think they might just use some cheap quality o-rings?


----------



## newbie66

bub said:


> I only seem to get the black stuff on the light I am using at that time. Takes about 5-10 day to build up. As a CNC machine tool engineer I see a lot of o-rings damaged, a lot flip and look like they delaminate but this is under 60bar of hydraulic pressure. I have seen this black stuff in small cylinders that are at a dead end of the system but the O-ring shows signs of damage these do not yet show any. I am just using some very light-wait oil so I was thinking it was melting the o-ring. Lol It looks to black to be dirt out of my pocket so goodness knows?




The black stuff shows immediately after applying new lube and twisting the head a few times. Using a tissue or finger to wipe will result in quite a bit of black stuff. I am using a Fenix E05 o-ring on the D25A Ti. Wonder if the o-ring is degrading... :shrug:


----------



## newbie66

Espionage Studio said:


> I have had 3 different eagletacs d25's that I have checked on, they all had badly degraded o-rings pretty quickly after purchase. Not so much the business end, but the tail end would always be all cracked and brittle. I think they might just use some cheap quality o-rings?



Wow, that doesn't sound good...


----------



## ven

The O rings on my d25 and other lights be it stainless,ti or alloy seem fine but the lights all tend to have this black residue . I use armytek nyogel if that makes a difference,but also used nitecore with same results regarding the black residue............

Its not as easy to see on the black fenix lights etc,maybe it just shows up easier on ti/stainless......... but it is across all threads.

So a presumption here,heat from the light,lube against the O ring,slight rubbing and it leaves this black paste fluid on the threads. Even though i cant see actual damage/wear it must be from the O rings as its the same black on the different materials.


----------



## WalkIntoTheLight

I think the black residue is pretty common. I can see it on all my lights, especially if I wipe the threads with alcohol to clean them. It's way more pronounced on twisties, so it is obviously a result of the wear on o-rings. The more the o-rings are rubbed, the faster they break down.


----------



## shelm

ven said:


> ......... but it is across all threads.



:thinking:

i am a long time Clicky Ti user .. and it is true that, similar to bare aluminum threads as in Quark AA², the threads get dirty fast, but from my understanding the dark gray color of the cleaning Q-tips stems from the abrasion of the threaded parts.

okay .. if someone can actually see abrasive wear on the black surface of the o-rings, then


----------



## newbie66

Thanks for all the advice. I guess it is safe to say that the o-ring on mine is not degrading, but rather a normal thing to happen. I feel somewhat relieved.


----------



## bub

Most O-rings are designed to fit in a grooved recess and form a seal on the opposing surface like say a piston for a reciprocating motion I have never seen a o-ring used for a twisting seal except on lights. A quad ring would be better but the groove would have to be bigger. Just need a supply of O-rings. Lol


----------



## newbie66

bub said:


> Most O-rings are designed to fit in a grooved recess and form a seal on the opposing surface like say a piston for a reciprocating motion I have never seen a o-ring used for a twisting seal except on lights. A quad ring would be better but the groove would have to be bigger. Just need a supply of O-rings. Lol



Yeah, from where I live, I don't see any local stores that sell o-rings. Having to order o-rings through international online stores would be too expensive. Just got to scavenge spare o-rings from my other lights.


----------



## bub

There are no local stores that will stock them here even hydraulic hose replacement specialists will not stock those sizes but they should be able to order them in for you. If you have fork trucks or earth moving machinery then there will be hydraulic specialists near by.


----------



## newbie66

Thanks for the suggestion but I don't even know where to find such specialists. Luckily none of my other lights need changing o-rings so far. Will just try to ignore the black stuff and will only act if something bad happens to it.


----------



## hatman

Anyone have a source for the proper o-rings?

Anyone know the correct size?


----------



## ven

hatman said:


> Anyone have a source for the proper o-rings?
> 
> Anyone know the correct size?



Mr Shelm has the info here
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ac-Clicky-Ti&p=4383070&viewfull=1#post4383070


----------



## hatman

Thanks!


----------



## Snareman

It might be somewhere in the previous 30 pages so forgive me, but are the Ti lights lighter or heavier than their Aluminum counterparts and by how much? I can't find solid info on that anywhere.


----------



## kbuzbee

Snareman said:


> It might be somewhere in the previous 30 pages so forgive me, but are the Ti lights lighter or heavier than their Aluminum counterparts and by how much? I can't find solid info on that anywhere.



Ti is heavier. In the D25C it's pretty negligible but you can tell if you hold them both at the same time. In your pocket, I doubt you'd notice.

Ken


----------



## SCEMan

Snareman said:


> It might be somewhere in the previous 30 pages so forgive me, but are the Ti lights lighter or heavier than their Aluminum counterparts and by how much? I can't find solid info on that anywhere.



My D25A Ti is noticeably heavier than the aluminum version. The added heft feels nice though.


----------



## TweakMDS

Afaik, the newer Ti's have a bigger/heavier brass heatsink, which might be the added weight. I have multiple Ti versions and one regular version and never noticed a weight difference. I do/did notice a difference in running them on eneloop vs lr92 vs 14500. 

Old titanium (first d25a Ti colicky, I think the 2012 version) with lr92 is still a favorite to edc, mostly because it's a light I don't care too much about to get beaten up 

That combo feels like the lightest by far, but I should weigh them to be sure it's not just all in my head...


----------



## shelm

TweakMDS said:


> , but I should weigh them to be sure it's not just all in my head...



okay i could weigh my Ti too. i got a +1g kitchen scale, nothing more accurate.


----------



## double0thirteen

shelm, would you mind sharing where we can get those 10.0×1.0×12.0mm O-Rings you mentioned earlier? Thanks!


----------



## hatman

doubl0thirteen said:


> shelm, would you mind sharing where we can get those 10.0×1.0×12.0mm O-Rings you mentioned earlier? Thanks!



Yes, please!


----------



## shelm

doubl0thirteen said:


> where we can get those 10.0×1.0×12.0mm O-Rings you mentioned earlier?


I ordered them online from IR-Dichtungstechnik Shop. The EPDM variety was too expensive , so i bought the cheapest of the cheapest, which is the NBR variety. _International _shipping is €4.10 ouch, if the total weight (automatically calculated in the shopping cart) stays under a threshold. If you choose to order from there, buy multiple copies of this size o-ring and similar size o-rings for the Eagletac and buy more o-rings for your Fenix and Sunbayman


----------



## newbie66

shelm said:


> I ordered them online from IR-Dichtungstechnik Shop. The EPDM variety was too expensive , so i bought the cheapest of the cheapest, which is the NBR variety. _International _shipping is €4.10 ouch, if the total weight (automatically calculated in the shopping cart) stays under a threshold. If you choose to order from there, buy multiple copies of this size o-ring and similar size o-rings for the Eagletac and buy more o-rings for your Fenix and Sunbayman




Hmm, can't understand a word on that site...


----------



## double0thirteen

Really!? I thought it was me... Jk

Any English translation would help or even better a US webby!


0013


----------



## shelm

Eagtac *D25A Clicky Ti 2015* shipping to dealers :naughty:





It's difficult to reinvent the wheel :twothumbs


----------



## blackFFM

What does the "HD" in XP-L HD V5 stand for?

I like the slight redesign of the D25A. Maybe i'll get one by the end of the year. Can't have enough Nichias in my collection.


----------



## recDNA

Specifically how is new one different than old one? Any ui change or just different led?


----------



## Mr. Tone

recDNA said:


> Specifically how is new one different than old one? Any ui change or just different led?



I could be wrong but I believe they have changed the driver so that moonlight mode can now work with 14500, too. Before, moonlight mode went from 0.5 lumens on AA to around 3 or so lumens when using 14500.


----------



## gunga

Based on the specs, the changes are :

1. New body knurling design 
2. Copper pcb for the LED 
3. New xpl LED option. 

That's it.


----------



## recDNA

gunga said:


> Based on the specs, the changes are :
> 
> 1. New body knurling design
> 2. Copper pcb for the LED
> 3. New xpl LED option.
> 
> That's it.


Thanks. I like everything about the light but the ui. Too easy to accidentally enter strobe. I wish mode sequence could be programmed.


----------



## gunga

I'm okay with the UI because it has such a quick reset to low. I was curious about the changes too, mostly cosmetic I'm afraid. I wasn't sure I liked the new look but it's growing on me.

The copper board is nice but is of limited benefit on the AA light due to low drive levels (tho perhaps on 14500 is makes a difference).


----------



## Berneck1

If anyone sees pre-orders anywhere let us know...


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


----------



## Mr. Tone

gunga said:


> Based on the specs, the changes are :
> 
> 1. New body knurling design
> 2. Copper pcb for the LED
> 3. New xpl LED option.
> 
> That's it.



This is straight from Eagletac's website and the emphasis is mine: "D25 clicky Ti series use the A400RC III driver and A950RC III driver. Both feature high efficiency, clicky and twist head operation, programmable 0.5 lumen moonlight mode, optional mode memory (D25C only), added auxiliary modes (i.e. disorientated strobe, fast SOS), _*and most importantly dimmable feature with single li-ion.*_"


----------



## gunga

Try reading the 2014 version. It's the same circuit.


----------



## Mr. Tone

Berneck1 said:


> If anyone sees pre-orders anywhere let us know...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums



http://www.illuminationgear.com/EagleTac-D25A-TITANIUM-2015-ETD25ATI2015.htm


----------



## Mr. Tone

gunga said:


> Try reading the 2014 version. It's the same circuit.



I just checked that out, I stand corrected. That's too bad, these things rock on 14500 but I personally wish it could retain the moonlight mode that it has on AA.


----------



## gunga

I was hoping for a more substantial change too. This is mostly cosmetic.


----------



## reppans

Mr. Tone said:


> I just checked that out, I stand corrected. That's too bad, these things rock on 14500 but I personally wish it could retain the moonlight mode that it has on AA.



Yeah I like my D25As too, but the voltage regulation is poor (ALL modes shift by multiples on 14500s). Moonlight also shifts by multiples even between a NiMh and L91. 

Hope they've addressed the weak clip too.


----------



## recDNA

blackFFM said:


> What does the "HD" in XP-L HD V5 stand for?
> 
> I like the slight redesign of the D25A. Maybe i'll get one by the end of the year. Can't have enough Nichias in my collection.


I would like to know what the HD means too?


----------



## Mr. Tone

recDNA said:


> I would like to know what the HD means too?



High Density is the standard XP-L with the dome and the domeless XP-L is the HI for High Intensity.


----------



## recDNA

Mr. Tone said:


> High Density is the standard XP-L with the dome and the domeless XP-L is the HI for High Intensity.


Never heard that before. Thanks.


----------



## Mr. Tone

recDNA said:


> Never heard that before. Thanks.



It haa only been that way for a month or so.


----------



## newbie66

Too bad it ain't High Intesity for more throw. That would make it more unique.


----------



## interruptedz

is titanium not good on heat dissipation? before i inquired for a ti fl. but i red somewhere that its heats up pretty quickly


----------



## recDNA

newbie66 said:


> Too bad it ain't High Intesity for more throw. That would make it more unique.


I agree...at least as an option


----------



## Mr. Tone

Here is more detail on the CreeXP-L HI http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?400821-Cree-XP-L-High-Intensity-LED


----------



## fnj

interruptedz said:


> is titanium not good on heat dissipation? before i inquired for a ti fl. but i red somewhere that its heats up pretty quickly



Titanium is poor from a thermal conductivity standpoint, when compared to aluminum or copper or even brass. It's even a bit worse than stainless steel, which is nothing to write home about. It's not that the body heats up quickly; in fact it takes longer for the heat to move through the body than it does for aluminum. The problem is that the LED and circuit can be roasting but you might not feel too much heat in the body.

Just so as not to exaggerate, titanium is not as terrible as wood, for example, or other non-metallics would be. It's just that it is far behind aluminum and copper.

Here are the figures for thermal conductivity of some significant metals. The units are _Btu/(hr o​F ft)_, a bit challenging to grasp, and using obsolete imperial units (sorry), but it's only the comparative values you need to concentrate on. High is good - meaning that heat moves quickly and readily away from the source and into and throughout the body, where it may be radiated into the air and further conducted into the fingers of the holder.

silver, 235
copper, 223
gold, 182
aluminum, 118
brass, 64-92
iron, 34-42
stainless steel, 7-26
titanium, 11-13

The precise values depend fairly strongly on the exact alloy. Aluminum is ALWAYS alloyed for our purposes; brass and stainless steel are alloys by definition; and titanium is more often than not pure, though you can also find lights using an alloy such as Ti-6Al-4V. There used to be at least a few models of one brand that used pure silver, but I believe those are pretty much long gone now. One could forget about the ultimate status symbol - a pure gold light - as the cost would be just silly.

Just for comparison, wood is on the order of 1/200th the value of titanium, and typical plastics not much higher, so don't get paranoid that the LED in your titanium flashlight is automatically bound to burn up. It all depends on the drive level and detail design (notably, bonding of the LED to the heat sink, and transition from the heat sink to the body).


----------



## GoingGear.com

newbie66 said:


> Too bad it ain't High Intesity for more throw. That would make it more unique.



The XP-L HI LEDs are still pretty hard to get. I'm sure we'll see more models with them in the future.


----------



## AmericanEDC

Will that XP-L v5 at 6500k look at all green/yellow? Is tint an issue with this cool white emitter? Or do most people get the Nichia. I'd like a lot of lumens but not at the expense of ugly. I'm thinking of a pre order.


----------



## newbie66

GoingGear.com said:


> The XP-L HI LEDs are still pretty hard to get. I'm sure we'll see more models with them in the future.



That will be nice.


----------



## TweakMDS

I've looked at these Titanium D25's a couple of times already. The D25A has always been my favorite light in any iterations, but I fear I have too many of them already. For someone who already has 3 D25A's and 2 D25C's, 3 of those titanium... does it make sense to buy another?

Unfortunately (or fortunately for my wallet) my dealer has the D25A in XP-L and the D25C in Nichia 219. I'd prefer a D25A in Nichia or at least a warmer XP-L. Had that been the case, I'd already been spanding my money.


----------



## Kilovolt

TweakMDS said:


> I've looked at these Titanium D25's a couple of times already. The D25A has always been my favorite light in any iterations, but I fear I have too many of them already. For someone who already has 3 D25A's and 2 D25C's, 3 of those titanium... does it make sense to buy another?
> 
> Unfortunately (or fortunately for my wallet) my dealer has the D25A in XP-L and the D25C in Nichia 219. I'd prefer a D25A in Nichia or at least a warmer XP-L. Had that been the case, I'd already been spanding my money.




I've gone through a similar process but ended up with a D25C Ti XP-L V5 added to the existing lot ...


----------



## recDNA

I'm also waiting for a neutral XP-L. I had the nichia and it just isn't bright enough for me with primaries. I prefer triple nichia in a little bigger light.


----------



## jon_slider

AmericanEDC said:


> I'd like a lot of lumens


Its a trade off.. 
more blue tint, more lumens, less CRI

5000k N219 is *23% warmer* than 6500K XPL
the N219 has 132 LED lumens, which is *38% less lumens*, than the 213 LED lumens of the XPL

your decision should be based on how you personally feel about tint and CRI, Its a trade off

I think it would help if people posted some beam shots comparing the N219 and the XPL


----------



## recDNA

No interest in 219b. Not bright enough. I'm talking neutral XP-L


----------



## richardcpf

How hard is to open the head of the D25C Ti?

I ordered a XP-G2 2014 version, amazing deal now that they're in clearance. Want to modify the driver with a Direct drive FET and XP-L HI V3, maybe some cosmetic changes. Basically what Vihn does to the D25Cvn.


----------



## markr6

recDNA said:


> No interest in 219b. Not bright enough. I'm talking neutral XP-L



As much as I like the Nichia, I agree. An XP-L 3D or 3C tint would give nice enough quality, while giving the high output. I wish every manufacturer offered every single tint as an option!! I'll keep dreaming...


----------



## recDNA

Heck, I'd be happy with 1 option between 4000k - 5000k


----------



## jon_slider

recDNA said:


> Heck, I'd be happy with 1 option between 4000k - 5000k



Do you think a 4500K XPL would be significantly brighter than a 4500K N219, using the same driver?

Does anyone have and XPL and an N219 of known matching Kelvin, driven by the same driver? Please post beamshots 

here is an XPG, on high, driven by a thrunite TiS driver (rated 120 lumens stock) and an XPL driven by an Olight i3s driver on high, (85 lumens stock), both on single aaa eneloop
you can see the XPG is much brighter, but the comparison is not valid… different drivers… 
the XPG gets hotter, and does not last as long, due to the circuit, not the LED
and I dont know how to explain the tint difference, which is extreme, for two LEDs rated the same Kelvin...


----------



## markr6

jon_slider said:


> Do you think a 4500K XPL would be significantly brighter than a 4500K N219, using the same driver?



I can't say for sure, but I've made that assumption based on all my Nichia 219 experiences. I like them, but they always take a back seat compared to other emitters.

That 3000k XPL...nasty nasty nasty!


----------



## jon_slider

markr6 said:


> That 3000k XPL...nasty nasty nasty!



LOL! no love for a nice warm electronic candle?

fwiw, the iPhone camera does its own thing when it comes to white balance.. here is a shot that may be more entertaining

left to right, Thrunite Titanium Xmas rated 162 lumen with stock XPL, Thrunite Ti Stainless driver rated 120 lumen with 3000K XPG swap, Olight i3s driver rated 85 lumen, with 3000K XPL swap. All are single AAA freshly charged Eneloop, on high.











fwiw, this is just what the camera sees. To my eyes the overcast morning image actually has Much more vibrant red, yellow, blue, and green, than pictured. For entertainment value only


----------



## markr6

^^ I'm picky...need a 4800K-ish option 

I always passed on CR123 cells or 16340s, but man this D25C Ti w/ Nichia is pulling me in. Need a little bling bling to match my pinky diamond ring! (no, not really)


----------



## jon_slider

markr6 said:


> ^^ I'm picky...need a 4800K-ish option



Your wish is my command, would you take a 4400K N219a (second from left in an L08)
left to right, 5800K XPL, 4400K N219a, 3000k XPG, 3000k XPL


----------



## markr6

jon_slider said:


> Your wish is my command, would you take a 4400K N219a (second from left in an L08)
> left to right, 5800K XPL, 4400K N219a, 3000k XPG, 3000k XPL



Looks good to me! I have a D25C Nichia (2015) in my cart...will I pull the trigger?? I have enough Nichia lights, but find the 5000K even nicer than the 4500K. So this is tempting. Plus, it will be my first Ti. Trying to make excuses...


----------



## recDNA

Is CRI listed?


----------



## markr6

recDNA said:


> Is CRI listed?



For the D25C Nichia I'm considering, it says 92


----------



## recDNA

That's surprising. I read the 219C is only 83 CRI


----------



## markr6

recDNA said:


> That's surprising. I read the 219C is only 83 CRI



For now. The 90+ CRI is in development. But the D25C I'm talking about uses the 219B.


----------



## recDNA

markr6 said:


> For now. The 90+ CRI is in development. But the D25C I'm talking about uses the 219B.


Oh, i misunderstood. I'd love to see a 90+ CRI Hi Intensity XP-L


----------



## richardcpf

richardcpf said:


> How hard is to open the head of the D25C Ti?
> 
> I ordered a XP-G2 2014 version, amazing deal now that they're in clearance. Want to modify the driver with a Direct drive FET and XP-L HI V3, maybe some cosmetic changes. Basically what Vihn does to the D25Cvn.




Since I plan to mod it anyways I ordered the D25C Ti 2014 XP-G2, for $44.95 shipped this thing is a STEAL.

Stock as is, it throws better than anything in this size and the construction is among the best I’ve seen. Threads are really smooth and the clip sits firmly in place. I expected it to be dim but little light is bright, even with a CR123! It also comes with AR lens and GITD switch boot.

And the best part? The bezel can be easily unscrewed to access the 17.75mm reflector and LED which is mounted on a 14mm standard aluminium mcpcb with a very nice XP centering ring. Pill is made from brass and it is press fit. Driver diameter room measures 17.3mm so it’s perfect to fit a FET+1 in there. But wait, there’s more: tailcap unscrews even without having to remove the pocket clip, it has a (possibly) silver coated spring and a small switch the size of an Omtem, easy replacement there.

This is HEAVEN for any modder looking for a compact EDC and make it into a true pocket rocket. Mine will have a XP-L HI V3 2B and FET+1 driver.


----------



## markr6

richardcpf said:


> Since I plan to mod it anyways I ordered the D25C Ti 2014 XP-G2, for $44.95 shipped this thing is a STEAL.
> 
> Stock as is, it throws better than anything in this size and the construction is among the best I’ve seen. Threads are really smooth and the clip sits firmly in place. I expected it to be dim but little light is bright, even with a CR123! It also comes with AR lens and GITD switch boot.
> 
> And the best part? The bezel can be easily unscrewed to access the 17.75mm reflector and LED which is mounted on a 14mm standard aluminium mcpcb with a very nice XP centering ring. Pill is made from brass and it is press fit. Driver diameter room measures 17.3mm so it’s perfect to fit a FET+1 in there. But wait, there’s more: tailcap unscrews even without having to remove the pocket clip, it has a (possibly) silver coated spring and a small switch the size of an Omtem, easy replacement there.
> 
> This is HEAVEN for any modder looking for a compact EDC and make it into a true pocket rocket. Mine will have a XP-L HI V3 2B and FET+1 driver.



I wish I had the patience and know-how to mod. It sound like something that I would excel in...screwing up royally, unfortunately!


----------



## gunga

Thanks for the update. I think I'll order one as a mod host now!

Can you expend on how the pill comes apart? I had never found a nice cr123 host for modding. This one fits the bill.


----------



## gunga

Can someone pm me the $45 special again? I can't find it.

Edit: got it!


----------



## ronniepudding

Just bought a D25C Nichia 2014 Ti on close out sale at ILLUMN today... And since I couldn't decide between the two of them, I also purchased a D25A Nichia and a D25A XP-G2. (I suppose the one I like least will be gifted to a family member.) These will be my first Eagletac Clickies. After reading much of this thread over the last couple of days (it took that long  ), I finally decided to see what all the fuss is about.


----------



## richardcpf

gunga said:


> Thanks for the update. I think I'll order one as a mod host now!
> 
> Can you expend on how the pill comes apart? I had never found a nice cr123 host for modding. This one fits the bill.



The pill doesn't come apart, it is press fit. You unscrew the bezel, remove the lens and reflector and you'll see the shelf, basically an integrated shelf with brass to improve a bit on heat sinking/conductivity. Driver is also press fit.

This is why the D25A cannot be modded, because there is no bezel, they install the lens, orings and reflector into the empty head from the back, then press the pill with the LED and centering ring already in place.


----------



## gunga

I'm asking about the D25C that was described above as moddable.


----------



## StudFreeman

Can someone enumerate the differences between the '14 and '15 models of the A and C? Please and thank you.


----------



## gunga

A is for AA battery. C is for cr123 batteries. For 2015, I believe they switched to copper LED boards so they may handle heat a bit better. Other than that, there is a change in the knurling pattern. No circuit changes I can see. It's largely cosmetic.


----------



## recDNA

I'm still waiting for a neutral XP-L. That would be new. Hi Intensity XP-L would be fun.


----------



## StudFreeman

Thank you gunga.


----------



## gunga

Sure. Also cool white xpl is available on 2015 models.


----------



## Crazyeddiethefirst

gunga said:


> Can someone pm me the $45 special again? I can't find it.
> 
> Edit: got it!



Price dropped to $40 now!
http://www.illumn.com/eagletac-d25c-clicky-nichia-219-titanium-2014.html


----------



## ronniepudding

I just received my three new D25 Ti 2014 lights last night, and I have to say I'm impressed with their quality, especially at the current closeout price. My only complaints are cosmetic:

1) inductor whine on the D25C Nichia that is audible on medium mode when held close to the ear -- but to my understanding this does not affect performance or otherwise impact expected reliability
2) the D25A XP-G2 came pre-scratched because of those holsters in which they ship the lights -- the snap is exposed metal inside the holster, and the light rubs against the metal when sheathed or deployed (I've received new D25A Minis in the past with dinged anodizing due to the same root cause)...

... but both are minor annoyances, neither warranting a return/exchange. And I don't want to exchange the D25C Nichia because the tint is perfect. =) The tints on the D25C and D25A Nichias are slightly different... the D25A is warmer, but both are (of course) very nice. Is it possible that the temperature difference is related to the voltage difference between the two lights, or just having to do with luck of the draw? I will try the D25A with a 14505 CRAA tonight and see if that affects the temperature at all...

The D25A XP-G2 is the perfect cool white (for me) -- it's just a tad warmer than some other CW lights I have in the collection, and no blue or green or other off-colors visible. It's white light. If every cool white was like this, I wouldn't ever want NW. It was a toss-up between XP-G2 and XM-L2, and I'm satisfied with my choice.

The D25C Nichia is the best of the three... the tint is the best, the head turns smoothest, the button is easiest to push, the clip has the best centering and stiffness, and the lens is user-replaceable. It looks the best as well; elegant simplicity. I was worried it would be too short to use comfortably, but I was wrong... I grip it pointing down with the smallest three fingers, and it sits nicely in the fist with the button right where the end of my thumb falls naturally. It may be my new favorite light ever.


----------



## cp2315

I ordered D25c ti from illumn too. Will get it this friday. Glad to hear about your positive impression!


----------



## awsom50

I can't decive between nichia and xp-l 2015 model - is the nichia version so much greater? Also is it a lot more dim compared to xp-l?
Another question - does the 2014 ti model with nichia works well with rcr? Eagletac claims that only the 2015 driver can manage rcr's. I would really appreciate help. Thanks!


----------



## cp2315

I got my 2014 D25C Ti with Nichia about 20 minutes ago. This is my first Eagletac light. The UI is quite new to me. 

1. Tint and blue halo
The tint of this nichia219B is just perfect. It is not cool at all but very pleasing neutral white without being rosy. 
I did see some blue halo outside the beam when close to a white surface. But it is way less obvious compared to Olight S20R, SWM C20C, or ZL SC600 MK1.
D25A seems to have light orange peel reflector. My D25C has a SMO. The lens on mine is AR lens.


2. Moon mode
When head is tightened, there are two modes, turbo and strobe (group 2).
When head is loose, I get group 1. By tightening/loosing head three times, I get to lower or raise the output of whole group 1. When group 1 is in the lowered state, the first mode is a true moon mode, being less than 0.5 lumen if I assume MH20 has a 1 lumen low mode. When it is in the higher state, the first mode is brighter than MH20 1 lumen mode, being maybe 3-5 lumens (only by estimation). Though I am using an efest IMR 16340, the other two modes (medium and high) are retained at some extent except the medium mode is too bright (about half of high). This is expected as mentioned on Eagletac specs. This is also similar to what you see when switching from eneloop to 14500 on Thrunite T10.
Overall, the modes are satisfactory on my sample even using 16340.


I did observe PWM in lower modes. They are pretty high frequency. I have to wave my light really fast to see it. So this will not likely to bother me.

From Eagletac website, D25C was the one that user can open the bezel and replace the lens. D25C was the one to have optional mode memory in Group 1. D25A and D25C may have different drivers based on what Eagletac said. “D25 clicky Ti series use the A400RC III driver and A950RC III driver. Both feature high efficiency, clicky and twist head operation, programmable 0.5 lumen moonlight mode, optional mode memory (D25C only), added auxiliary modes (i.e. disorientated strobe, fast SOS), and most importantly dimmable feature with single li-ion.” The one in D25A might be less consistent compared to the one in D25C.


Overall, this is a great buy for me, especially from Illumn at $40, and three-day delivery. (There are quite some purchases go like “Ahh that is not what I wanted” in the first twenty minutes I had it in my hands. This is not one.)



Awsom50, I don't have the 2015 version but 2014 nichia is plenty bright and has better tint and CRI. It goes warm quickly (warm within a minute) when I use 16340 (rcr you talking about), which means it's output is pushing the limit of heat this tiny light can handle anyway. There is no reason to go even brighter.
It works with rcr to some extent, but does not retain the same modes as you get with cr123. IMO it is close enough. What I plan to do is mainly using this as a two- mode EDC. Without mode memory in Group 1 (head loose), it will always come on in moon (less than 0.5 lumen) or low (3-5 lumens); with head tightened, it will come on in high at ~300-400 lumen. But of course you still has the medium mode at ~200 lumens (only rough estimation).


----------



## jon_slider

cp2315 said:


> I got my 2014 D25C Ti with Nichia about 20 minutes ago. ...I did observe PWM in lower modes.



this says nothing, no mention of PWM, no mention of Constant Current. Thanks for informing it has PWM
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25tirc_2/features/index.html

this says no PWM… weird they would use PWM in the Ti and not the Mini.. even more frustrating is they dont disclose the PWM in the Ti
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25cm/specs.html


----------



## cp2315

Truth is: three out of the six modes use PWM.

Lower Group 1
The lowest sub-lumen mode: no PWM
med: yes
High: no

Higher Group 1
Low: yes
med: yes
high: no

But the frequency is pretty high. I consider myself very sensitive to PWM and this does not bother me at all. One has to wave the light like crazy to see it.


----------



## jon_slider

cp2315 said:


> Truth is: three out of the six modes use PWM.



Thanks! I wish the factory would disclose the fact the D25C uses PWM, instead of only disclosing that the D25 Mini has No PWM (I do not believe them now). Thanks for the report. Glad you like the light, and that you dont mind the PWM..


----------



## ronniepudding

It is pretty lame that ET doesn't disclose PWM used on D series lights --- but with the exception of Foursevens, most manufacturers aren't doing this consistently anyway. Luckily, ET's use of PWM is well-documented on CPF, so MOST members buying one of these lights should be aware of it if they've bothered to do research in advance of their purchase. As others have said, the PWM is not so slow as to be problematic.


----------



## jon_slider

ronniepudding said:


> It is pretty lame that ET doesn't disclose PWM used on D series lights --- ... Luckily, ET's use of PWM is well-documented on CPF...



Yes CPF is very helpful. Its one thing for ET to simply say nothing about the D25C having PWM, its actually a LIE if they say the D25Mini has no PWM if it DOES.. 

so, what does CPF say about the Mini, PWM or not? Does ET LIE about the Mini, or just omit the fact about the C? All very misleading.. not impressed with ET


----------



## reppans

Speaking of PWM, does anyone notice a slow frequency "pseudo-PWM" (not true on/off, more of pulsation) on the D25A's moonlight mode? I have several D25A Ti samples and they all do it to some degree or another... it's seems mostly dependent upon voltage (usually < ~ 1.4ish V NiMh). It's quite slow and easily seen by waving a finger in front of the beam. Here's what it looks like using the cellphone and time exposure tests compared to a current regulated Quark. 









jon_slider said:


> Yes CPF is very helpful. Its one thing for ET to simply say nothing about the D25C having PWM, its actually a LIE if they say the D25Mini has no PWM if it DOES..
> 
> so, what does CPF say about the Mini, PWM or not? Does ET LIE about the Mini, or just omit the fact about the C? All very misleading.. not impressed with ET



Not sure what make of ET... their warranty is also quite misleading - 10yr warranty, but the driver is only covered for 1yr (electronics clause). On the other hand their D25 series output/runtime specs are very honest... (too conservative actually). A D25A XML has nearly the same output/runtime graph as an SC52 on med and high (for matching modes), but ZL specs ~double the lumen-hours of efficiency (ZL exaggerates quite a bit more than ET is conservative, based on my tests with a lightbox). You can also see this in Selfbuilt's tests of the D25C vs SC52.... IIRC, ZL specs (overall) equal or better output/efficiency on nearly half the battery.


----------



## ronniepudding

jon_slider said:


> Its one thing for ET to simply say nothing about the D25C having PWM, its actually a LIE if they say the D25Mini has no PWM if it DOES... so, what does CPF say about the Mini, PWM or not? Does ET LIE about the Mini, or just omit the fact about the C? All very misleading.. not impressed with ET



ET's website says "Constant current regulation (non-PWM) for all output modes" for both D25 Mini and Clicky series tech specs. That is either flat out wrong, or at least misleading if what we're seeing is circuit noise from boost-buck interplay. I don't have the technical expertise to differentiate between the two. Knowing that there was PWM (or PWM like symptoms) on the lower modes kept me from buying ET lights for a while. Having just purchased a few, I'm thinking that it really isn't such a big deal. I don't notice anything in regular use, so I'm not going to lose sleep over it.


----------



## cp2315

ronniepudding said:


> I don't notice anything in regular use, so I'm not going to lose sleep over it.



Exactly. I am very happy with this purchase.


----------



## Tapis

I had a couple of 14500 Keeppower 800 mAh laying around and bought today a D25A Nichia 2014 Ti to use them, but realized too late that this battery might not fit into the flashlight. Can somebody confirm whether they fit or not?


----------



## thslw8jg

Yes, the protected Keeppower 800 mAH cells do fit the 2014 ti D25A battery tube


----------



## monanza

The KeepPower 840mAh (Sanyo UR14500P Protected Button Top) also fits.


----------



## onthebeam

Has anyone tried sticking a 5mm trit next to the clicky? Just measured and looks like it would fit without impeding the use of the button.


----------



## gunga

I use 1.4 x 3.5 mm trits in the lanyard slots. Fiddly work installing them but it's worth it.


----------



## onthebeam

gunga said:


> I use 1.4 x 3.5 mm trits in the lanyard slots. Fiddly work installing them but it's worth it.



Wow. A very creative idea I hadn't thought of. Which adhesive did you use? I would think that a glue that settles faster than Norland such as a metal to glass epoxy might be best for trits perched up in those lanyard slots.

I had planned on placing 5 mm trits behind the lanyard slots, next to the button. Had you also considered that before settling on your idea? 

You've got me thinking . . . (Any regrets?)


----------



## gunga

I used tape on the inside to hold the trits, then cured norland on top. Remove the tape and fix the blemishes etc on the inside, cure again.

I've done this on about half a dozen different lights (Eagletac D25A/C, Thrunite T10T/S, BTU Brass 18650, McGizmo Haiku AA). It's time consuming but works well. I generally like my trits inside the structure somewhere. I have done in recesses as you suggest. It works but I find using things like lanyard slots leaves a cleaner result. Looks cool too.

No regrets. Love the results. I end up buying a lot of trits and norland though...


----------



## Anybodysguess

I just received my D25C Titanium XML-U2 from Going Gear, first Li-Ion since I sent back my S10R after it quit, I bought an Olight protected RCR123A and a cheap $6 USB charger that had good reviews.

I have a few Issues/questions, not really problems just things I don't understand.

It is supposed to be Mode 1 Turbo > Strobe
Mode 2 Low > Medium > High
Mode 2 With Moon Moon > Low > Medium

With A fully charged 4.1V battery "Turbo" is indistinguishable from High, I then enabled moonlight mode, because I like to have moon, but it seems to be Moon > Medium > High now, not Moon > Low > Medium.
I don't have any kind of lumen meters, but doing ceiling bounce Mode 2 brightest appears to be the same regardless of moon on vs moon off, and High is exactly as bright as turbo.

Although as regards the issue of PWM I don't see any, and using my camera I have a solid line, not PWM distinguishable.

-----EDIT-----
After doing some back of the envelope math, maybe its the Olight battery?
Olight specs say max discharge is 1500Ma, I'm going to assume that is limited by the protection circuit so that is absolute. 
3.7V * 1.5A gives 5.55Watts, and the CREE XM-L U2 spec sheet lists a maximum efficiency of 100 lumens per watt, and assuming a 100% efficient driver that's 550 Lumens.
Guess I picked the wrong battery for the job, you live, and you learn.


----------



## cp2315

Anybodysguess said:


> I just received my D25C Titanium XML-U2 from Going Gear, first Li-Ion since I sent back my S10R after it quit, I bought an Olight protected RCR123A and a cheap $6 USB charger that had good reviews.
> 
> I have a few Issues/questions, not really problems just things I don't understand.
> 
> It is supposed to be Mode 1 Turbo > Strobe
> Mode 2 Low > Medium > High
> Mode 2 With Moon Moon > Low > Medium
> 
> With A fully charged 4.1V battery "Turbo" is indistinguishable from High, I then enabled moonlight mode, because I like to have moon, but it seems to be Moon > Medium > High now, not Moon > Low > Medium.
> I don't have any kind of lumen meters, but doing ceiling bounce Mode 2 brightest appears to be the same regardless of moon on vs moon off, and High is exactly as bright as turbo.
> 
> Although as regards the issue of PWM I don't see any, and using my camera I have a solid line, not PWM distinguishable.



What you described is actually what should happen with this light and this power source (RCR123 or 16340). The specs are for when you use CR123 3V cells. With RCR, the light gets brighter on turbo but also messed low and medium modes. Moon should still be there.


----------



## recDNA

I prefer CR123A in mine. They can sometimes crush long li ion batteries if you're not careful.


----------



## Anybodysguess

cp2315 said:


> What you described is actually what should happen with this light and this power source (RCR123 or 16340). The specs are for when you use CR123 3V cells. With RCR, the light gets brighter on turbo but also messed low and medium modes. Moon should still be there.



Ok, after reading the official page about them I thought all modes worked same with either battery except for turbo being brighter. It's fine, I like high being in Mode 2, just was wondering why.



> [h=3]Upgraded LED driver[/h]D25 clicky Ti series use the A400RC III driver and A950RC III driver. Both feature high efficiency, clicky and twist head operation, programmable 0.5 lumen moonlight mode, optional mode memory (D25C only), added auxiliary modes (i.e. disorientated strobe, fast SOS), and most importantly dimmable feature with single li-ion.




I'm still assuming turbo is not as bright as I expected due to the olight battery being limited to 1500Ma discharge? Don't get me wrong the light is bright as is, and if it turns out to be so I probably wont even get a different battery, just trying to figure out why it works the way it does.


----------



## Beamhead

Does memory mode work on a CR123?


----------



## reppans

The 1500ma spec on the battery is a standard 2C (2x capacity) recommended max continuous discharge for ICR chemistry - the protection circuit is likely set much higher (~3A?). 

I think what you are seeing is just a much brighter high level - ET does not use proper buck drivers and as mentioned above, a Li-ion will shift the lower modes up/around.... although they are "dimmable" (used to be a 2-mode light on Li-ions). 

You can use your camera's light meter to objectively measure output differences between the different modes and batteries.

(BTW, on the A's, PWM is only used on a few modes)


----------



## Anybodysguess

reppans said:


> *-Snip-* I think what you are seeing is just a much brighter high level * -Snip-* a Li-ion will shift the lower modes up/around.... although they are "dimmable" * -Snip-*
> 
> You can use your camera's light meter to objectively measure output differences between the different modes and batteries.
> 
> (BTW, on the A's, PWM is only used on a few modes)



Just that the manual says TURBO is limited to 200 Seconds, so I thought it was strange that turbo and high are the same brightness.
I switched moonlight back off that way I have a low > medium > high layout.
My camera is just my cellphone, it doesn't have a light meter.
I personally don't care about PWM, as long as I cant see it during normal use, if I shine it on a fan and it looks funny, thats ok, but it must be invisible during normal use. 
But for the record I tested all modes and noticed no PWM.


----------



## reppans

Anybodysguess said:


> Just that the manual says TURBO is limited to 200 Seconds, so I thought it was strange that turbo and high are the same brightness.
> I switched moonlight back off that way I have a low > medium > high layout.
> My camera is just my cellphone, it doesn't have a light meter.
> I personally don't care about PWM, as long as I cant see it during normal use, if I shine it on a fan and it looks funny, thats ok, but it must be invisible during normal use.
> But for the record I tested all modes and noticed no PWM.



Yeah, these lights "can" run li-ions, but they are not really designed for them - lights that are designed to run Li-ions have buck drivers and will retain their lower modes at spec, with only Max/Turbo shifting brighter. Sounds like your high mode has shifted to = Turbo. I don't know what that means for the step-down function, or possible lack of, running on high.

All cameras have light meters, it's just a matter of accessing the info - you can get free apps on smartphones to do it, or if you use an image hosting site (like flickr) it can show the exif data (exposure settings) for every picture. 

You need a time exposure (~1 sec) to positively test for PWM. I don't own a C, but the A definite uses PWM on a few modes. But as you say, it is so fast (fastest I ever photo'd) that I cannot see it in normal use, and I am sensitive to it (except moonlight, as I mentioned a page earlier).


----------



## reppans

Oh yeah, one other indirect method would be to measure the current draw between high and turbo with a DMM, but Turbo is slightly tricky since you need 2 points of contact.


----------



## Anybodysguess

Ok, so I downloaded a Lux meter app, and ceiling bounced in a dark room, numbers are the same on turbo and high.

It may not be the perfect Li-ion light (Im not using disposable as I use my EDC so much that gets expensive.) But for $40 its a GREAT light.

Just wish I could have moon and low without doing the 3x twist while on which gives bright flashes, if you are trying to enable moon that isn't ideal.

Regardless of whatever it's turboing to, I doubt its 750, probably closer to the 500 that they state as the lower limit, its still an extremely bright extremely compact light, I love how thin it is for a cr123 light!


---Edit---

Tried using cr123, now without having two lights I can't be sure, because it takes time to swap batteries, but it doesn't SEEM any brighter, turbo vs turbo with cr123 or rcr123. But with cr123 High is noticeably dimmer than turbo.


----------



## reppans

Nice! So HERE'S a $5 BLF lightbox you can rig .

Yup @$40 the Ti's are real nice. I bought a few spare A's for gifts - great emergency light, very easy to rig to run on ANY battery with the paperclip trick.



Anybodysguess said:


> Just wish I could have moon and low without doing the 3x twist while on which gives bright flashes, if you are trying to enable moon that isn't ideal.



Haha... same nit for me. A bright moonlight, immediately followed by a good low low, are my 2 favorite modes on other lights.

Is the lux meter app sensitive enough to distinguish the Turbo diff. between the two different batt chemistries? Try closing the distance by ceiling bouncing in a tiny room (closet or bathroom) or even between two walls in a narrow hallway.


----------



## markr6

reppans said:


> Nice! So HERE'S a $5 BLF lightbox you can rig .



This is great! I never used this method, but I sometimes test lights in a small area. It may be my phone, app, or both, but I find even the SLIGHTEST movement really throws off the numbers.


----------



## onthebeam

I'm looking to try 3 volt LiFePo4 cells for my 2014 Eagletac D25C titanium.

My goal is to NOT boost brightness and retain all three modes with the light set up for moonlight. The main reason is that I bought the D25C for the low .5 lumen moonlight mode and don't want it any brighter.

The only thread I can find for the D25C using LiFePo4 cells was not encouraging. However, this was a 2012 mini model and I know the light has been evolving.

Is anyone successfully using 3 volt LiFePo4 cells with their D25Cs? I can't be the only one who likes moonlight just as it is . . . right?

Thanks!


----------



## cyclesport

onthebeam said:


> I'm looking to try 3 volt LiFePo4 cells for my 2014 Eagletac D25C titanium. Is anyone successfully using 3 volt LiFePo4 cells with their D25Cs?



I presently have a couple of generations of D25c's consisting of (2012) XM-L's, and (2014) N. 219b's that I usually run w/primaries due to loss of medium using _any_ Li-ion (3v LiFePo4 or 3.7v LiCo). You peaked my curiosity however so I shoved a 3 volt LiFePo4 in each version and toggled each to moonlight mode in a dark room, alternating a LiFePo4 and CR123a and, at least by eye...I could tell no difference. If there is a difference, it's negligible. 

Since you don't seem to mind loosing medium...I'm guessing you'd be happy w/the result.


----------



## Anybodysguess

I seem to have found my lost lumens.....
Going Gear shipped me the XP-G model instead of the XM-L that I ordered, I was just looking at the box and noticed that it said XP-G2 S2 on the end.
Now I have to decide if its worth it to ship it back or not. 

I've been told this is the last light im allowed to order for a while..... so I want it to be the one I wanted to edc.


----------



## onthebeam

cyclesport said:


> I presently have a couple of generations of D25c's consisting of (2012) XM-L's, and (2014) N. 219b's that I usually run w/primaries due to loss of medium using _any_ Li-ion (3v LiFePo4 or 3.7v LiCo). You peaked my curiosity however so I shoved a 3 volt LiFePo4 in each version and toggled each to moonlight mode in a dark room, alternating a LiFePo4 and CR123a and, at least by eye...I could tell no difference. If there is a difference, it's negligible.
> 
> Since you don't seem to mind loosing medium...I'm guessing you'd be happy w/the result.



Well, not exactly. I use medium way more than max so that wouldn't be the best solution for me. However, I GREATLY APPRECIATE you taking the time to run the test.

I have about a half dozen CR123s waiting in the wings. Guess I'll need to stay with primaries unless someone has another solution.


----------



## cyclesport

onthebeam said:


> Well, not exactly. I use medium way more than max so that wouldn't be the best solution for me. However, I GREATLY APPRECIATE you taking the time to run the test.
> 
> I have about a half dozen CR123s waiting in the wings. Guess I'll need to stay with primaries unless someone has another solution.



No problem...I actually bought the only two LiFePo4 cells I own to use exclusively in the D25c's, thinking that the newer versions of the light(s) would retain all modes since the LiFePo4 voltage is so close to primaries..._and_ particularly since ET continues to state on it's site with reference to the D25c... *"dimmable feature with single li-ion"*...when it's clearly untrue.

I like the D25c platform though, so I too keep 15 or 20 Battery Junction "Titanium" brand CR123a cells on hand just for these lights. At a $1 a piece, it's not a huge inconvenience or cost, but it still kinda bugs me that I can't use Li-ions and get all modes.


----------



## gunga

I put my own 17mm circuit in there. It's nice but rcr123 only.


----------



## gunga

No glow in this picture, but this is where I put trits in the d25A. The A fits a 3.5mm trit whilst the C is just big enough to fit a 5mm trit in the lanyard slots.


----------



## onthebeam

cyclesport said:


> No problem...I actually bought the only two LiFePo4 cells I own to use exclusively in the D25c's, thinking that the newer versions of the light(s) would retain all modes since the LiFePo4 voltage is so close to primaries..._and_ particularly since ET continues to state on it's site with reference to the D25c... *"dimmable feature with single li-ion"*...when it's clearly untrue.
> 
> I like the D25c platform though, so I too keep 15 or 20 Battery Junction "Titanium" brand CR123a cells on hand just for these lights. At a $1 a piece, it's not a huge inconvenience or cost, but it still kinda bugs me that I can't use Li-ions and get all modes.



Those were the exact same cells I was researching yesterday. See they did well in the 2013 CR123 shootout. Would you continue to recommend the Titaniums?

I have some CR2 lights I was thinking about trying the Titaniums with, too. I'd also like to try LiFePo4 cells with those but have read the runtimes are terrible, even if the modes are maintained.


----------



## onthebeam

gunga said:


> View attachment 1014
> 
> 
> No glow in this picture, but this is where I put trits in the d25A. The A fits a 3.5mm trit whilst the C is just big enough to fit a 5mm trit in the lanyard slots.



Lookin' good! With the glow in the dark clicky button, do you find the trits are still needed in the same area of the light?


----------



## gunga

If you're light doesn't get to "recharge" under some light I find the trits useful.


----------



## recDNA

gunga said:


> View attachment 1014
> 
> 
> No glow in this picture, but this is where I put trits in the d25A. The A fits a 3.5mm trit whilst the C is just big enough to fit a 5mm trit in the lanyard slots.


Do you know how to send a flashlight with trits through USPS? I've added trits to some of mine and now I'm afraid to get in trouble if I mail them out for led mods.


----------



## gunga

I'm in Canada. Never had any issues but I don't mark the package as containing tritium.


----------



## cyclesport

onthebeam said:


> Those were the exact same cells I was researching yesterday. See they did well in the 2013 CR123 shootout. Would you continue to recommend the Titaniums?
> 
> I have some CR2 lights I was thinking about trying the Titaniums with, too. I'd also like to try LiFePo4 cells with those but have read the runtimes are terrible, even if the modes are maintained.



Yes...the "Titanium" brand batteries in both the CR123a and CR2 sizes work as well (I use both) and last as long as any other brands I've tried, Surefire, Streamlight, etc.

And, yes again... in that LiFePo4 cell's run times are lacking compared to LiCo chemistry cells, although it's a small diff., and both are kind of sucky compared to primaries IMO, plus many chargers don't support charging LiFePo4 cells. If you're thinking about using either chemistry Li-ion in your new D25c...you'll loose medium mode with either one...but in my experience the LiCo cells will simply give you two somewhat brighter turbo modes (instead of medium and high on a CR123a) than LiFePo4's.


----------



## JoeSW

I pulled the trigger on a 2014 D25C Ti from Goinggear. It will be my first Titanium light so I am super excited!

However, I wanted an LED that was different from my current XM-L2 equipped Nitecores. So I choose the flashlight listed as neutral white XP-G2. The thing about this LED combo is that I can't find any information on neutral white XP-G2 with D25C Ti lights. Could this be a mislabeled flashlight?

Does anyone know what I can expect in terms of color temperature? I hope to find out more.

http://goinggear.com/eagletac-d25c-...g2-453-lumen-led-flashlight-2014-version.html


----------



## 18650

JoeSW said:


> I pulled the trigger on a 2014 D25C Ti from Goinggear. It will be my first Titanium light so I am super excited! However, I wanted an LED that was different from my current XM-L2 equipped Nitecores. So I choose the flashlight listed as neutral white XP-G2. The thing about this LED combo is that I can't find any information on neutral white XP-G2 with D25C Ti lights. Could this be a mislabeled flashlight? Does anyone know what I can expect in terms of color temperature? I hope to find out more. http://goinggear.com/eagletac-d25c-...g2-453-lumen-led-flashlight-2014-version.html


 I don't recall anything about neutral Ti models but ET uses 4300K Cree's IIRC.


----------



## JoeSW

18650 said:


> I don't recall anything about neutral Ti models but ET uses 4300K Cree's IIRC.



Thanks for your info! I guess I will find out sooner or later! Really excited about this new light. I hope I won't be disappointed!


----------



## markr6

18650 said:


> I don't recall anything about neutral Ti models but ET uses 4300K Cree's IIRC.



FYI...Eagletac previously told me:

CW = 6500
NW = 4500


----------



## onthebeam

gunga said:


> View attachment 1014
> 
> 
> No glow in this picture, but this is where I put trits in the d25A. The A fits a 3.5mm trit whilst the C is just big enough to fit a 5mm trit in the lanyard slots.



Gunga, some advice please if you see this. I have measured slots in the A clicky and the C. The C is where u want to put the trit in the slots like you did.

However, I measure only 4 mm of clearance before curve begins. To get 5mm to lie in there, the corners of the slots would need to be filed out .5 mm on each side. Is that what you did. With the clicky right behind it, looks tricky???


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## onthebeam

Duplicate post. Sorry.


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## gunga

I did no filling. Just tape on the back to seal the rear and hold the trit. My trits do stick out the back a touch but it does not interfere with anything. They don't stick out the front at all. You can use the 1.4x3.5mm trits if you are worried but they are dimmer.

D25C = can fit 5mm trit
D25A = can fit 3.5-4mm trit

Note, it might be possible that some samples have smaller slots? The slot is deep enough that none of my 5mm trit protrudes out the front.


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## JoeSW

markr6 said:


> FYI...Eagletac previously told me:
> 
> CW = 6500
> NW = 4500



I finally received my first titanium eagletac! The color temperature of the neutral white XP-G LED turns out to be really nice! Definitely warmer than my nitecore XM-L2 flashlights, but not yellow warm. I love it! The output using CR123s is very little compared to my MH-20 but it's plenty of light for a small EDC. Definitely a good purchase!


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## matrixshaman

My ET 25C annodized - came out a nice variety of colors:

http://www.2shared.com/photo/ITLzqGxd/ET-25C-Ti.html


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## thehollowhands

Hello! I fell in love with the D25C Ti as soon as I saw it. Woe be to me!

I need some help please. 

I've an option between the 2014 *XP-G2* and the 2014 *XML-HI*.
Any thoughts on how they compare?

I understand that the XML has more output, and a floodier beam.
And the XP-G2 has a lower output, with more throw.

Is that all to it, or am I oversimplifying things?

I'm avoiding the 2015 version because I prefer the cleaner look on the 2014. 
Unless there are compelling reasons not to.

I'm new here, and new to the hobby. 
Thank you for reading and any help is greatly appreciated!


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## MaxStatic

I'm new to the ET clicky party but in the last month I acquired:

2015 D25C Ti XM-L V5
2014 D25A Ti XP-G2
2014 D25C Nichia 219
2014 D25A Nichia 219
2015 D25A Ti XM-L

and before this I didn't even like reverse clickies....

the Nichia is the perfect walk around a dark house light and I have them all more or less set up the same, moonlight mode, head tightened during the day, loose at night. The A's are being EDCed and the C's hang around the house. A's using eneloops and the C's 123 primaries.

love these lil suckers!


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## recDNA

MaxStatic said:


> I'm new to the ET clicky party but in the last month I acquired:
> 
> 2015 D25C Ti XM-L V5
> 2014 D25A Ti XP-G2
> 2014 D25C Nichia 219
> 2014 D25A Nichia 219
> 2015 D25A Ti XM-L
> 
> and before this I didn't even like reverse clickies....
> 
> the Nichia is the perfect walk around a dark house light and I have them all more or less set up the same, moonlight mode, head tightened during the day, loose at night. The A's are being EDCed and the C's hang around the house. A's using eneloops and the C's 123 primaries.
> 
> love these lil suckers!


Where did you get the titanium D25A with 219b? I find the C version all over the place but not the A version that I prefer.


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## MaxStatic

recDNA said:


> Where did you get the titanium D25A with 219b? I find the C version all over the place but not the A version that I prefer.



the two Nichia that I have are aluminum. I have three Ti's and a pair of black aluminum.


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## recDNA

MaxStatic said:


> the two Nichia that I have are aluminum. I have three Ti's and a pair of black aluminum.


Ugh. Too bad.


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## MaxStatic

recDNA said:


> Ugh. Too bad.



Send ET a request. Actually, I seem to remember seeing something that they would out whatever LED you wanted in a light among some choices. Can remember where I saw that and can't find it now. Might be worth asking if you're that into it.


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## recDNA

I went to their website and there was a drop down menu for led but the only choice was xpl hi. To be honest I was hoping to find the 2014 version. They were selling incredibly cheap like 40 bucks. By the time I noticed all they had was the C version.


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## MaxStatic

That's how I got both Nichia, on close out for like $30. Also grabbed the xp-g Ti A at same place, was there last one. Happy hunting.



recDNA said:


> I went to their website and there was a drop down menu for led but the only choice was xpl hi. To be honest I was hoping to find the 2014 version. They were selling incredibly cheap like 40 bucks. By the time I noticed all they had was the C version.


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## recDNA

MaxStatic said:


> That's how I got both Nichia, on close out for like $30. Also grabbed the xp-g Ti A at same place, was there last one. Happy hunting.


I probably waited 1 week too long.


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## MaxStatic

I'm really enjoying the Nichia tint, even if it's aluminum. Tis a nice light for a nice price...



recDNA said:


> I probably waited 1 week too long.


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## recDNA

MaxStatic said:


> I'm really enjoying the Nichia tint, even if it's aluminum. Tis a nice light for a nice price...


Oh ya it's great but I have lots of lights with Nichia already. The titanium makes it unique.


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## light-modder

recDNA, if you can find an aluminum version with Nichia, still difficult maybe, you might be able to swap the light engine.


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## recDNA

light-modder said:


> recDNA, if you can find an aluminum version with Nichia, still difficult maybe, you might be able to swap the light engine.


Oh there are aluminum ones available. I have no interest in them.


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## gunga

I think modding a ti one would be easier and cheaper than trying to swap light engines. There is no separate engine.


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## light-modder

Is the aluminum version built different than the ti?


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## MaxStatic

The aluminum is a little lighter and disapates heat a little better. There is a slight variation to the body but otherwise pretty much the same on the C version. AA version head is a little different from Ti to aluminum.



light-modder said:


> Is the aluminum version built different than the ti?


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## recDNA

The aluminum version is cheaper and more practical but I have other Nichia lights that are practical. I just like the AA titanium version because it's pretty. I already have the C version but the AA is more comfortable to hold. There was a used one for sale here a week ago but I missed out waiting for price to drop


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