# Pen Machining?



## [email protected] (Dec 30, 2009)

I recently acquired and broke a Lamy Vista, as I do. 





I managed to extract the feed with the nib from the pen. It is pressed fit into the barrel. Since the important parts are still intact, I'm wondering if this can be done. Excuse my horrible diagram done in paint.




The cap is again friction fit on similar to a fisher space pen by orings, It is stopped from damaging the nib with a much thicker oring. The tailcap will also need to be sealed. 

My questions are how much would it cost to have this done in anodised aluminium? Is this practical?


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## gadget_lover (Dec 31, 2009)

There is no technical reason that it can't be done, given the original as a template.

Daniel


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## PhotonFanatic (Dec 31, 2009)

Practical? Not really since the price of a new pen is considerably less than what it would cost to have anything machined.


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## alexmin (Dec 31, 2009)

Glad to see more people here interested in pen turning.
You can also check www.penturners.org and www.fountainpennetwork.com
Most people there using woodworking lathes and making pens from store bought kits but some make nice fully custom pens on metal working lathes.


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## gadget_lover (Dec 31, 2009)

Yeah, I've made a handful of pens on my 7x10. I even posted pictures here somewhere. 

Danile


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## darkzero (Dec 31, 2009)

gadget_lover said:


> Yeah, I've made a handful of pens on my 7x10. I even posted pictures here somewhere.
> 
> Danile


 
Very cool! I've been looking at pen turning too off & on over the past months. Met a guy at the local gun show back in July who had some very nice pieces & caught my interest. I'd like turn some pens too but I don't understand everything when browsing the forums. What are some good kits to start off with?


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## gadget_lover (Dec 31, 2009)

It does not take much to start.

The typical pen turning kit has a mandrel that you mount the wood piece (the blank) on, with bushings that have the right diameters for the hardware that will be used. Almost all of them have a brass sleeve that fits inside the wood. The sleeve holds the actual pen hardware and provides a support structure.

The kits include the pen mechanisms and fittings as well as the brass tube. The blanks are up to you. The mandrel is usually extra, as are the bushings. The mandrel and bushings are reused many times. The bushings are unique to the particular model of pen. Each pen kit makes only one pen.

I did several of these slimlines, and they made great gifts. They have straight profiles so work well on a metal lathe such as a 7x10.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/slimline-pen-kits.html

It will need the bushings http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKM-BUSH3.html and a mandrel. I've successfully used 1/4 inch allthread as a mandrel.

You can pick up the parts locally at most woodworking shops. Woodcraft and Rockler com to mind. 

Daniel


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## darkzero (Dec 31, 2009)

Thanks Daniel! I actually only want to make titanium pens which is on my list of requests. Could I use the same kits? I suppose I should start out with some wood kits for practice before attempting Ti.


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## gadget_lover (Dec 31, 2009)

You could use the same kits. The difference is that you will make the titanium to the dimensions of the wood parts of the kit (with the brass tube installed).

The PDF in this link has instructions for building the slimline pen. It will give you an idea of what parts are included and how they are press fit together.

http://www.pennstateind.com/library/PK-PCLXX_ins.pdf

Daniel


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## alexmin (Dec 31, 2009)

Personally I think if you have metal lathe you don't need any kits and can make a so called "kitless" pen. You still might need to get some parts espesially for fountain pens (nib assembly and ink pump).

Check this out:


http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/1247361

http://pencraftonline.com/webcam.cfm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISScyuUQsmU

http://pencraftonline.com/page.cfm/Huron-Main-Page

After I saw these pens above I totally lost all interest to kit pens



Here is another example of a kitless pen from IAP forum
This craftsman is not as good but you can see all the parts.


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## will (Jan 1, 2010)

darkzero said:


> Thanks Daniel! I actually only want to make titanium pens which is on my list of requests. Could I use the same kits? I suppose I should start out with some wood kits for practice before attempting Ti.



My understanding of these kits is that include a drill to hollow out the wood for the cap and body. I'll bet these are High Speed Steel and I don't think they will work (or last long) in titanium. Drilling out the blanks in titanium might be a real problem.


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## PhotonFanatic (Jan 1, 2010)

You've hit the nail on the head with that comment. 

But there are great drills available for machinists working on Ti, including 15X drills, so drilling a 7mm hole, say, to a depth of 105mm is possible.

Also, it seems that many of the kits use two tubes with a center ring, but it is possible to design a pen without that center band, making just one long thin tube. Of course, it is easier to make two tubes that screw together, rather than just one. :devil:


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## gadget_lover (Jan 1, 2010)

The two tubes are often for visual impact, as it allows fancy metalwork to be sandwiched between the halves.

I discovered that drilling a 7mm hole through a 5 inch block of wood is problematic enough, since it has to remain round. I ended up gettning frustrated and buying a 15 inch swing floor stand drill press to manage the problem.  

If I had my wits about me I would have chucked the blank in the mini-lathe and used a tailstock chuck to hold the drills.

I do not imagine it would be easy to drill a 6 inch long titanium rod to make a one piece pen. 


Daniel


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## PhotonFanatic (Jan 1, 2010)

Actually only 4" long on the main tube, with the stubs on the end that I use:


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## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2010)

Good to know that there are people interested. Any idea how much it would be? If this doesn't fall through I would be glad to donate the collector/nib.


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## alexmin (Jan 2, 2010)

gadget_lover said:


> ...
> I do not imagine it would be easy to drill a 6 inch long titanium rod to make a one piece pen.
> Daniel



Try to use titanium tubing instead of solid rods.


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## precisionworks (Jan 2, 2010)

> My understanding of these kits is that include a drill to hollow out the wood for the cap and body.


I had requests from a few pen turners and made up extra long HSS drill bits with the first half inch reduced in diameter. These work well on wood, plastics, aluminum, etc., but nothing harder or tougher.

Image below is greatly magnified. The reduced diameter is (maybe) .187". I can measure & post if there's any interest.


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## alexmin (Jan 2, 2010)

For turning plastic or wood these inserts below are great.
http://www.globaltooling.net/
14mm x 14mm x 2.0mm Radius Corners (PN # IC-2014144-RC) 
15mm x 15mm x 2.5mm Radius Corner (PN # IC-2515154-4100) 
and also round inserts "Double Back Out Knife"

Don't forget to order special torx screws for these inserts. 

These inserts are very sharp and cut wood and plastic nicely. To use them on your lathe you'll need to manufacture an insert holder for your QCTP or mount the insert on a steel rod about 3/4 diam, 12" long and use free hand.


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## bluwolf (Jan 2, 2010)

Cool! One of my hobbies. I didn't realize there were so many closet penmakers here. Check out this guy, Grayson Tighe. I believe his father is pretty notable knifemaker in his own right. http://www.tighepen.com/ He's the reason I wanted to try Ti. Check out the gallery section. Yes, he's done a lot of collaborations where he didn't do the engraving. But his own pens are very nice also.

I've made quite a few Al pens, trying to get farther and farther away from the kits. These are a few of mine. http://www.penmakersguild.com/browse.php?gallery=rouxm&page=0

But if you want to start with decent kits, IMHO Craft Supplies has the nicest assortment. The Ti Gold, Black Ti, and Platinum (or Rhodium) platings on their kits have a life time warranty.

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/

Mike


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## bluwolf (Jan 2, 2010)

PhotonFanatic said:


> Actually only 4" long on the main tube, with the stubs on the end that I use:


 
Very sharp. Gotta pic of the whole pen? Is it a click mechanism or a twist? Or am I completely wrong?

Mike


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## bluwolf (Jan 2, 2010)

alexmin said:


> Try to use titanium tubing instead of solid rods.


 
That was suggested to me by a couple a smart guys here. But the small bit of research I've done so far hasn't had the right combo of I.D. and O.D. that I can work with. I'm still looking though.

Mike


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## PhotonFanatic (Jan 2, 2010)

bluwolf said:


> Very sharp. Gotta pic of the whole pen? Is it a click mechanism or a twist? Or am I completely wrong?
> 
> Mike



Mike,

Thanks for the link to Tighe's website and to your pen photos, also. Lots of interesting stuff there.

I'm still working on the pen, so no final pics yet. It is a twist rollerball pen. I'm making everything but the twist mechanism--talk about a learning experience.


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## precisionworks (Jan 2, 2010)

Is there anything useful here:

http://www.smallparts.com/b/1641426...aterial_browse&field_material_browse=16414691


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## PhotonFanatic (Jan 2, 2010)

Something with a thicker wall, i.e., at least .10" would be better--those are really too thin.


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## darkzero (Jan 2, 2010)

bluwolf said:


> Cool! One of my hobbies. I didn't realize there were so many closet penmakers here. Check out this guy, Grayson Tighe. I believe his father is pretty notable knifemaker in his own right. http://www.tighepen.com/ He's the reason I wanted to try Ti. Check out the gallery section. Yes, he's done a lot of collaborations where he didn't do the engraving. But his own pens are very nice also.
> 
> I've made quite a few Al pens, trying to get farther and farther away from the kits. These are a few of mine. http://www.penmakersguild.com/browse.php?gallery=rouxm&page=0
> 
> ...


 
Those are beautiful! Mike you have some beautiful pieces as well! On the Tighe how are those diamond style patterns done?


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