# good band saw to cut up to 3" Al?



## wquiles (Mar 17, 2006)

I am not looking for anything fancy, but I need a band saw that can cut up to 3" of solid aluminum.

What are good brands/models to consider? Used ones?

What should I stay away from?

Will


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## grillmasterp (Mar 17, 2006)

wquiles said:


> What are good brands/models to consider? Used ones?
> Will



Milwaukee...period


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## KC2IXE (Mar 17, 2006)

wquiles said:


> I am not looking for anything fancy, but I need a band saw that can cut up to 3" of solid aluminum.
> 
> What are good brands/models to consider? Used ones?
> 
> ...



You say "Up to 3" thick" - by what? Straight lines only? Or are you cutting curves? (aka are you just removing slices off the end of the stock) - are you carrying int bandsaw around, or are you bringing the material to the saw?

All will give a different answer - 

Cutting of pieces with a hand held saw? A sawsall WILL work, BUT a Porter-cable "Portaband"will be a LOT faster

Cutting curves? The BEST is probably a big Do-all

Cutting slices off the end of bar stock. Get yourself a 4x7" bandsaw - aka the $199 Harbor Freight Special (other brands etc will work) Flush out the gearboz when you first get it (replace the oil with good oil) - get a couple of good blades for it - it'll run for ever


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## gadget_lover (Mar 17, 2006)

There are a lot of variables involved in that decision. I can only relate my own experiences...

The absolute cheapest way to go is the Harbor Freight variable speed portable hand-held bandsaw. It will cut up to 4 inch pieces. Every once in a while you can find it on sale for less than the normal $139. I've cut steel, brass and aluminum with it. I've cut solid bar, tube, plate and angle iron. It's currently on sale for $69 at http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47840

The advantages; you can take it to where you need it, such as the back yard, the car, etc. It's compact, so it stores easily on a shelf. It quickly cuts through all kinds of stuff. It's cheap. It uses commonly available blades. I've not had problems and have had it for more than a year.

The disadvantages; It's difficult to make a precise cut at a specific angle. I always have to clean up the cut off end by facing or filing. Because you have to hold it, the tendancy is to try to rush it by bearing down.

Other Options:
There are several sources for horiz+vert bandsaws. They typically have a vice that can be set to various angles. They have a mechanism that lets you turn on the say and walk away while it cuts. They use various methods for governing the rate at which the blade is lowered into the work.

The Harbor Freight ( http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37151 ) model is fairly popular. It's frequently on sale. Today it's $179. Like most HF models, you have to check it carefully and possibly do the final adjustments.

The advantages; Nice, clean cuts should minimize waste. The machine can be used as a traditional bandsaw with the work moved across the table or as a horizontal bandsaw for cutting off stock.

The disadvantages. The saw will take up floorspace ( at least 3 foot by 2 foot) which may be a problem in a small shop. You have to bring the work to the saw. Some folks have had probelms with the motor overheating.

Grizlly sells a version of the portable saw with an attachment that allows it to be used as a benchtop horizontal saw. http://www.grizzly.com/products/G8692 for only $139 . This is small enough to store on a shelf and still has the vice to allow you to make straight cuts.


I use my portable a lot. Don't have the floor model. I sometimes wish I had one. I'll eventually build a benchtop mount attachment for my portable just to get that nice clean 90 degree cut. 

Daniel


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## gadget_lover (Mar 17, 2006)

Since others have brought it up.....

I use a normal jigsaw with a metal (hacksaw style) blade to cut complex patterns in plate aluminum. I used a similar blade in a Sawsall (a super jigsaw) several times before I got the bandsaw. The sawsall makes the bandsaw look like a surgically precise instrument.

The HF is basically the same design as the Porter-cable "Portaband".

Daniel


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## wquiles (Mar 17, 2006)

KC2IXE said:


> You say "Up to 3" thick" - by what? Straight lines only? Or are you cutting curves? (aka are you just removing slices off the end of the stock) - are you carrying int bandsaw around, or are you bringing the material to the saw?
> 
> All will give a different answer -
> 
> ...


OK, let me add more information. 

Straight cuts, but neet to be able to cut at something other than just 90 degrees. I will mostly be cutting round stock (1-3 feet long) up to 3" diameter. I want to both cut the ends off (for small pieces, say 1-3" long) and cut to length (anywhere from 3-12" long). I rather have something stable and on the flloor, more than portable - I will bring the material to the saw.

Will


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## wquiles (Mar 17, 2006)

gadget_lover said:


> There are a lot of variables involved in that decision. I can only relate my own experiences...
> 
> The absolute cheapest way to go is the Harbor Freight variable speed portable hand-held bandsaw. It will cut up to 4 inch pieces. Every once in a while you can find it on sale for less than the normal $139. I've cut steel, brass and aluminum with it. I've cut solid bar, tube, plate and angle iron. It's currently on sale for $69 at http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47840
> 
> ...


Out of these, I think the HF you posted sounds like an ideal entry-level, floor based unit. I am going to try and see if they have it here at the local HF stores.

Thanks,
Will


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## ABTOMAT (Mar 17, 2006)

Don't bother with a handheld saw if you're doing anything resembling fine work. Until you get the hang of one it's a tricky thing to handle. Usually used for iron plumbing pipe and rough cutting steel before welding. I love mine (Porter-Cable deep cut) but it's not really a machine shop tool IMHO. If you do get one I'd skip the generic imports like HF. By their nature, portable bandsaws need regular repair if you give them much use.

The 4x6 saw is the famous "$150 bandsaw" that everyone talks about in metalworking groups. Simple, time-tested. I've been planning on getting one for years but never get around to it. Might need some work out of the box, but once it's running reliably they last a long time. Homier used to sell them for under $120. Keep in mind that it's nowhere near as big as it looks in the photo. If you see one in a large space like a garage you'll wonder what this toy is doing there. Perfect for a home shop, though.


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## tvodrd (Mar 17, 2006)

There are two principal "flavors" of band saws, vertical and horizontal. Verticals are typically best at "scroll" work- cutting odd shapes. Horizontals are best for cutting-off pieces of bar. "Portables" I will ignore, though they have their place! Some of the horozontals can be used in the vertical mode, but fall way short capability-wise. They do offer the best compromise if you can only afford one. The key is to buy a metal-cutting saw! Wood saws will cut aluminum OK but the blade life sucks, even when using a good lubricant like the tubular wax bars. (<- buy one and use it!) 

Sawing to rough shape can save you a lot of time in the lathe, and even more so in the mill! Dull blades tend to wander! Get one that will go down to ~100 SFM (surface feet per minute for the blade) You need even slower for stainless steels or Ti.

Larry


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## cmacclel (Mar 17, 2006)

tvodrd said:


> There are two principal "flavors" of band saws, vertical and horizontal. Verticals are typically best at "scroll" work- cutting odd shapes. Horizontals are best for cutting-off pieces of bar. "Portables" I will ignore, though they have their place! Some of the horozontals can be used in the vertical mode, but fall way short capability-wise. They do offer the best compromise if you can only afford one. The key is to buy a metal-cutting saw! Wood saws will cut aluminum OK but the blade life sucks, even when using a good lubricant like the tubular wax bars. (<- buy one and use it!)
> 
> Sawing to rough shape can save you a lot of time in the lathe, and even more so in the mill! Dull blades tend to wander! Get one that will go down to ~100 SFM (surface feet per minute for the blade) You need even slower for stainless steels or Ti.
> 
> Larry




He said Ti LOL...........stainless is bad enough as it is. I have same stray pieces of Ti at work maybe I'll try spinning some 

Mac


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## wquiles (Mar 19, 2006)

Done. I bought the HF metal cutting bandsaw and the store honored the Internet price. I had to pay tax, but no shipping 

Thank you all 

Will


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## gadget_lover (Mar 19, 2006)

Dang! Now I have band saw envy!

Let us know how you like it Will.

Daniel


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## ABTOMAT (Mar 19, 2006)

Have fun. Check out:

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm


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## wquiles (Mar 19, 2006)

ABTOMAT said:


> Have fun. Check out:
> 
> http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm


Great link - thanks so much 

Will


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## KC2IXE (Mar 19, 2006)

wquiles said:


> Done. I bought the HF metal cutting bandsaw and the store honored the Internet price. I had to pay tax, but no shipping
> 
> Thank you all
> 
> Will



Nice saws - like I said - the 2 things you should do ASAP

1)Chuck the blade that comes with it, and get a GOOD blade - Starrett, Sanvick, etc

2)Drain the gearbox, clean it, fill with good oil - too many people have found sand and or swarf in the gearbox

A new stand should be high on your list


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## tvodrd (Mar 19, 2006)

That saw doesn't come with a tank/coolant pump. You can extend bladelife by an order of magnitude with this stuff! That was from a quick google- I use a stick made by Castrol with my vertical saw and probably got it from McMaster. My horizontal saw has the pump/reservoir and I use water-soluable oil cutting fluid.

Larry


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## Mini-Moder (Mar 19, 2006)

grillmasterp said:


> Milwaukee...period


I dont think Milwaukee makes a band saw. 


Like other people have said, a bandsaw might not be your best choice, there are saws designed especialy to cut through pipes and such, Milwaukee makes a good one here. It also depends on what you are doing, my cheapy $200 bandsaw is just fine for me, but I only use it for wood working stuff not cutting metal. For cutting metal with a bandsaw you are going to want to be looking for something like a pretty high end Delta. Delta's are great bandsaws, and they last forever.


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## gadget_lover (Mar 19, 2006)

Is that stick lube used on one side or both sides of the blade?


Daniel


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## ABTOMAT (Mar 19, 2006)

Milwaukee makes a couple versions of portable bandsaw. Very durable, frequently used in the trades. That metal cutting circular saw has its uses, but it's kind of a specialty item and costs almost $300.

Delta only makes a couple metal cutting bandsaws. They're geared-down version of of their woodworking models. I have an older 14" like that, although I haven't finished repairing it yet. The one horizontal saw they sell is the same thing as the cheap imports.


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## grillmasterp (Mar 20, 2006)

Mini-Moder said:


> I dont think Milwaukee makes a band saw.



I have been using Milwaukee Deep- cut portable bandsaws for a while
http://heavydutytools.net/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=31

They also have a bandsaw table for stationary use.


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## Darell (Mar 20, 2006)

If you're cutting something substantial like 3" stock, you will NEED to cool that blade! The lube will help, but man, you could smoke the blade with just one cut if you don't go REALLY slow and cool the blade.

A coolant pump was one mandatory feature when I was shopping.
http://darelldd.com/tool/band_saw.htm


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## Mini-Moder (Mar 20, 2006)

Darell said:


> If you're cutting something substantial like 3" stock, you will NEED to cool that blade! The lube will help, but man, you could smoke the blade with just one cut if you don't go REALLY slow and cool the blade.
> 
> A coolant pump was one mandatory feature when I was shopping.
> http://darelldd.com/tool/band_saw.htm



What did that thing cost you?


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## tvodrd (Mar 20, 2006)

Cutting aluminum at 200 SFPM is fine without flood coolant. Hell, wood cutting bandsaws will saw aluminum satisfactorally, albeit with greatly reduced blade life. ( :nana: Darell) The stick wax lubes are applied periodically to the teeth- you saw into the end of the stick. It somehow helps keep the teeth from loading and extends blade life. Another use is with press-fit dowel pins- greatly reduces press force.

Larry


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## modamag (Mar 21, 2006)

*Mini-Moder: *7x12 Turn-Pro (similar to what Darell got) goes for ~$700 at Enco

*tvodrd: *Larry, how often is "periodic", every time you turn it on, couple weeks ...?

*wquiles: *Congrats Bill on acquiring another toy ... Tool. I was shopping for something similar but simply do not have the space in my garage. I'm eyeing on a lathemaster benchtop unit for a while and been waiting for it to be back in stock.


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## gadget_lover (Mar 22, 2006)

tvodrd said:


> "Portables" I will ignore, though they have their place!



I respectfully submit an example of "Their Place".

I just timed my lowly Harbor Freight portable while cutting a 1.25 inch hex bar. I was cutting 5 inch pieces to use in my lathe. It took exactly 1 minute to cut through. The bar is 2011-T3. I did it quick and dirty, with only a pencil mark on the top to judge the cut. When I need it close to 90 degrees I mark the cut on the top and sides so I have visual cues. That works fairly well, though not foolproof.


The picture shows how badly I made teh cut. There's about a 10-15 degree slope to the cut. The flashlight's a 2D just for scale.





Daniel


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## scott.cr (Mar 22, 2006)

I have the HF floor model bandsaw (4x6"), I paid $170 for it on sale. It's an adequate saw, but if you take some time to tune it up the performance increases significantly.

I ended up truing the belt pulleys on my lathe (the bores for the shafts were WAY off center), replaced the stock belt with a PowerTwist belt and use only good quality blades. Honestly the blade is what makes the difference.

It's tough to get this saw to cut perfect 90-degree lines, for me anyway. The stock mounting base allows you to inadvertantly twist the saw's base severely, which negatively affects the cut quality. I mount my saw to my workbench for "precise" cuts when necessary.


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## wquiles (Mar 24, 2006)

scott.cr said:


> I ended up truing the belt pulleys on my lathe (the bores for the shafts were WAY off center), replaced the stock belt with a PowerTwist belt and use only good quality blades.


 :huh2: Please tell me more about the PowerTwist belts 

Will


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## TranquillityBase (Mar 24, 2006)

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I'll rotate the photos next time.

This saw is basically the same as the open stand saw Harbor Freight sells. It's fixed speed and is perfect for dry cutting aluminum. Use a coarse blade and the miter gauge. I've had the same blade in the saw for the last 18 months, minimum.

I also have a Wilton vertical/horizontal with liquid cooling and auto feed, and it rarely gets used. Yes, the cut with the metal saw is better if you're looking for a perpendicular cut, but it takes minutes, compared to seconds, as with the wood bandsaw.

I normally don't cut 3" thick stock, but I have cut 2"x2" bar without a problem. Blades will not last quite as long if you are constantly cutting thick stuff. Cutting wax is also available, but I like the fact that I can blow and vacuum the saw clean when I want to do some wood cutting, the wax is kinda hard to remove.

Hope this helps,

TBase


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## scott.cr (Mar 27, 2006)

> Please tell me more about the PowerTwist belts



PowerTwist is a "link" belt - a belt made from one-inch sections that lock together with a little tongue, so you can just buy one long length of it and size it anyway you like for your machines.

BUT. The major advantage is that they run verrrrry smoothly. The 4x6 band saw vibrates quite a lot with the stock belt, and this negatively affects the cut quality and blade life. Maybe not as much of an issue when cutting aluminum, but when cutting steel I used to go through blades with the stock belt. (With the PowerTwist belt, my usual bi-metal blades have been lasting at least twice as long.)

I did try a U.S.-made automotive vee belt once, thinking it would be a good quality belt, but it was WAY worse than the stock belt.


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## wquiles (Sep 26, 2010)

Quick update on an "old" thread. I still have/use my HF 4x6 Metal Bandsaw, and besides using quality bi-metal blades and doing some aligning (they come horribly setup from the factory!), I have not done much to it, until now. I just finished installing a hydraulic piston on mine -> I wish I had done this earlier !!!

Not the prettiest/neatest install I have done, but it works very nicely and extremely smoothly:





















Close-up of the one-way adjustable valve:






It is "so easy" to stop the blade at any point, even this close to the piece being cut, so that you can have plenty of time to align the piece. The blade can come down as fast as before (with a loose spring), or as slow as "watching paint dry" - complete control on the speed:






I still have to find a more permanent way to mount the adjustable valve, but for now just sitting there works great:







This was the piston I bought:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7732&catname=hydraulic

and this was the one-way flow valve I used:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-4313-A&catname=hydraulic


My thanks to the great folks in the Yahoo 4x6 group for the help and advice :bow:

Will


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## precisionworks (Sep 26, 2010)

As much as you like high quality tools, you may want to keep watching for an older, American made, heavy weight saw ... sometimes dirt cheap on Craigslist or eBay.

My saw is the Kysor Johnson Model R, 7x10 capacity. Small enough to easily move on the mobile base I built, heavy enough to last for the next 100 years.

The big brother to that saw is the Johnson Model J. Over twice the weight & a larger foot print, but one of the finest saws ever designed.

If you need dead nuts repeat cutting (cut to length plus or minus .010") look at a European cold saw. To cut 3" rounds means a 14" blade, and those saws aren't cheap. My 9" cold saw is a joy to use as long as the part is 2"x2" square or smaller.


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## wquiles (Oct 1, 2010)

Thanks Barry. For the work I have done so far (cutting Mags and other Al pieces), once adjusted and with a good bi-metal blade, this small cheap saw is doing great so far. But all the same, I will keep an eye out for one of the ones you mentioned 

Today I was able to find some time to mount the adjustable hydraulic valve:











It is easily accessible, without protruding too far out, which would make it likely to get bumped (wood base is wider than the top):






Couple of videos:
HF Metal Band Saw - Hydraulic Piston. Dropping as fast as possible

HF Metal Band Saw - Hydraulic Piston. A little bit faster drop

HF Metal Band Saw - Hydraulic Piston. Not the slowest, but very slow drop

HF Metal Band Saw - Hydraulic Piston. Same as last video, but now speeding it up a little to come down all of the way


Will


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## gadget_lover (Oct 1, 2010)

Now we need to see pictures of the pressure gauge that you will just NEED to have so you can dial it in to match the job every time.

Seriously, Nice work.

Daniel


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