# Spark SL6 800CW (XM-L T6, 2xCR123A/1x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!



## selfbuilt (Jul 14, 2011)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *











Spark is a relatively new manufacturer, best known for their relatively floody headlamps and handhelds. In this review, I will be examining their current top-of-the-line cool white handheld flashlight, the SL6-800CW (1x18650). Please see my ST5 headlamp review for a comparison.

*Manufacturer Specifications:* 

LED: Cree XML T6 cool white
5 constant output modes
Super: 800lm/0.7 hours
Max: 500lm/1.4 hours
Med2：220lm/3.5 hours
Med1: 70lm/10 hours
Low: 20lm/36 hours
Battery: One 18650 rechargeable Li-on battery or two CR123A
Reverse polarity accepted circuit
Electrically conductive aluminum body provides inherent EMI/RFI shielding
SCHOTT ultra clear lens
Polarity reversibility
IPX8 waterproof
Weight: Without battery: 75g, With battery: 125g
Dimension: Length: 125mm, Diameter: 31mm
Premium grade aluminum alloy machined body with hard anodized finishing
Impact resistance Lens with 98% transparency
Operation:
Single click on either the side or rear tailcap switch to turn the flashlight on & off.
Hold onto either button to go through Minimum, Medium 1& Medium 2, Max modes. When desired mode is reached, release to stop brightness ramping and current mode is memorized.
At any mode, quickly double click on button to trigger the Super mode. Super mode automatically steps down to Max mode after 5 minutes for protection.
MSRP: ~$105






Inside the soft cardboard packaging box (with cut-out foam insert) you fill find the light, spare o-rings, frosted glass diffuser, manual, and good quality holster with closing flap. 






I like the commitment to supporting recycling. :thumbsup:









From left to right: Energizer CR123A, AW Protected 18650, Spark SL6 800CW, Klarus XT10, 4Sevens X10 Maelstrom, Sunwayman T20C, Olight M20, Klarus NT10

All weights with no batteries.

*Spark SL6*: Weight 77.8g, Length: 125.5mm, Width (bezel): 30.9mm
*Klarus XT10*: Weight 121.3g, Length: 144.8, Width (bezel) 34.9mm
*Fenix TK15*: Weight 131.1g, Length 147.1mm x Width (bezel) 34.0mm
*Lumintop TD-15X*: Weight 150.3g, Length 147.3mm, Width (bezel): 37.8mm

The SL6 is certainly a lot more compact than other XM-L-based lights I have come across.






















The build of the Spark SL6 is distinctive. To start, I like the muted gray natural anodizing (manufacturer claims hard anodized). There are some ridges in the anodizing on my sample, and some slight color mismatch between portions, but the overall affect is still good (think naturally-weathered looking, instead of blemished). Anodizing does seem fairly thinly coated, however.

Labels are fairly minimal and small, but clearly legible against the background. 

There is no real knurling to speak of, but there are a number of body ridge details to help with grip. Screw threads are anodized for tailcap lock-out. :thumbsup:

The most distinctive part of the light is the dual-switch control. Although I've seen this before on a few lights (the original Klarus lights come to mind), the implementation here is different. To start, both switches are electronic ones (which explains the lower overall height). More significantly, they work interchangeably – you turn the light on/off or switch modes equally with either one. Feel is typical for electronic switches (think Zebralight ). 

Note the large removable spring connecting the body to the head, presumably to connect the front switch to the tailcap switch.

Light can tailstand. Clip-on pocket clip is fairly typical in this class, and seems as firm as others I've seen. Note the clip is reversible, but you may scratch the anodizing if you try to remove and re-attach.

There is a spring on the positive contact board in the head, and all my flat-top high capacity cells fit and worked in the light. 

I also like the included frosted glass diffuser (feels like glass, not plastic). This can be used to replace the clear lens, but I find it also fits over the existing lens assembly if you don't want to open everything up (i.e. just unscrew the bezel and pop on top). Note the bezel ring doesn't screw down all the way with both lenses in place, of course.














The SL6 has a narrow reflector with a fairly flat curvature (light OP coating), suggesting the light will not be a great thrower. XM-L emitter was well centered on my sample.

Which brings me to the white-wall beamshots.  All lights are on AW protected 18650, about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. All beamshots taken immediately upon activation.


























































As expected, the beam profile is fairly floody, even without the frosted diffuser.

_UPDATE AUGUST 21, 2011: I have now done 100-yard outdoor beamshots, in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up reviews._






*User Interface*

Overall, the Spark SL6 has a similar user interface to the Zebralights.

I'll start with the main difference – the SL6 has dual electronic switches, which function inter-changeably (i.e., either one can be used for on/off or mode switching). 

A quick click-release of either switch activates the light.

There are five modes to the SL6, four of which are accessed sequentially by holding down either switch (and letting go when the mode you want is reached). These are Lo – Med1 – Med2 – Hi, in repeating sequence.

The fifth constant output mode is called Super Hi, and is accessed by double-clicking the switch in any mode. Manufacturer claims LED is driven at 3.0A on Super Hi. 

There are no strobe/SOS modes on the SL6.

The SL6 has mode memory, and remembers the last level used when re-activating the light. Note this memory is lost if you unscrew the tailcap (i.e. light starts up at its lowest setting after a battery change).

There is one quirk in the timing – you need to be quick on the press to activate the light. If you hold the switch for too long before releasing (i.e., half a second, as you might on a standard clicky), the light turns on and shuts off. :thinking: If you hold the switch for a second or more, the light comes on and cycles through the output levels. The timing reminds me of the Zebralight SC series (i.e. a quick press for Hi, a more sustained press for Lo). But it's odd that the more sustained press here results in the light turning on-off. :shrug:

_*UPDATE:* Seems like this timing quirk was an intentional design, to allow for momentary signaling. While it works for this purpose, it is a bit tricky, as you need to get the timings just right (i.e. quick release for sustained on, longer hold before release for momentary on-off, and an even longer hold for ramping). _

*PWM/Strobe*

*UPDATE July 23, 2011:* I had originally assumed the Lo and Med1 modes of the SL6 used high-frequency PWM, as I could detect a re-occuring signal on these levels only (i.e. no signal on Med2, Hi or Super). 

Lo mode:





Med1 mode:





HKJ believes the SL6 is still current-regulated at these levels, but given the difficulties in providing high current regulation at a low current, the circuit overcompensates and produce a lot of high-frequency noise. As you can see in my traces as well, the frequency of this noise is quite variable, but is typically in a range of ~21kHz on Med1 and ~11kHz on Lo in my testing. This noise is completely undetectable by eye - you will not be able to observe any flickering on the lower outputs on the SL6. :thumbsup: And Spark confirms, their lights are fully current-controlled at all levels.

There are no strobe/SOS modes on the SL6. 

*Standby Current Drain*

Due to the electronic switch nature of the light, the SL6 has a constant parasitic stand-by current drain when the tailcap is connected. However, I am unable to measure it at the tail. When I connect the leads (on my DMM's 10A port), the light cycles through output modes (i.e. it treats the DMM connection as a sustain button press). :shrug:

If I use the DMM's uAmA port, the light doesn't actually come on, but still seems to cycle between settings as the current ratings jump from a minimum of 65 uA to off the scale. Although hard to draw a conclusion from this, I suspect the standby drain is in the low uA range when off (i.e., <65 uA), which would translate into years of runtime for a standard 18650 cell.

As always, this current can be cut by simply unscrewing the tailcap a quarter turn when the light is not in use (which I recommend for all lights with a standby drain). But if you do this, the last output memory is erased and the light comes back on at is lowest setting.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have recently devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lighbox values to Lumens thread for more info.

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

*Effective November 2010, I have revised my summary tables to match with the current ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.sliderule.ca/FL1.htm for a description of the terms used in these tables.*











By ceiling bounce, the Super Hi output on the SL6 is marginally brighter than my Thrunite Scorpion V2 on 1x18650 (which is supposedly driven at 2.5A). oo: My lightbox reports them as being about the same, but I suspect the manufacturer's 3.0A current rating is believable. That's a lot of output from such a small light!

Note however that the SL6 steps down to the Hi level after 5 mins runtime on Super Hi (see runtime charts below). I estimate the Hi level to be around ~420 lumens.

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*














Note the fully-regulated pattern on 18650. Runtime is good at all levels tested.

For 2xCR123A runtimes below, I have included Super Hi – _even though the manufacturer specifically warns against running the SL6 on Super Hi with CR123A._ 






As you can see, in this case my Titanium Innovation cells handled the load without tripping their PTCs (under cooling). But I do not recommend you try this – especially given the small mass of the SL6. See my discussion thread on the drive current battery issue in the Thrunite Scorpion V2 for more general info on this matter.

*Potential Issues*

The SL6 doesn't take 2x 3.7V Li-ion sources.

It is not recommended to run 2xCR123A on Super Hi, due to the high discharge rate. Although my Titanium Innovation cells worked fine, my experience from the Thrunite Scorpion V2 tells me that many brands may trip their PTC circuits before the step-down to Hi occurs at 5 mins.

There are reports of some brands of 18650 not being able to handle the sustained discharge rate of Super Hi. My AW and Redilast cells all worked fine, however.

Switch timing takes a little getting used. Standard length click-release is "momentary mode", causing the light turn on/off for signalling. You need to be quick on the release for sustained on, or hold longer to activate the ramp.

There were initial reports of the rear tailcap switch not always working consistently with overly long cells, but this appears to have been resolved. I didn't experience any issues, even with my Redilast 2900mAh or 4GREER 2400mAh button-tops.

*Preliminary Observations*

It's almost a cliché here to say the light was smaller than I expected when it arrived – but the SL6 is definitely on the petite size for a 1x18650/2xCR123A class light. That said, it has good hand-feel and is comfortable to use in any orientation. :thumbsup:

That last point is enhanced by the unique dual-switch arrangement – where each switch functions interchangeably. You can single-handedly turn on/off and control all output modes easily by either switch, in whatever hand-grip you prefer (i.e. don't need to switch grip). This is remarkably versatile in practice – there's something for everyone here. 

Aside from this innovation, the overall switch feel, UI and circuit functioning is very reminiscent of the Zebralight lights. Unlike the Zebralights, the SL6 is current-controlled at all levels below Max. Although there is some high frequency noise on the Lo/Med1 levels, the frequency is too high for you to be able to detect it visually.  The only real issue I have is with the timing on the switches for on/off. Although the Zebralights also took a little getting used to (i.e. quick press for Hi, longer press for Lo), the fact that the SL6 shuts off on a longer press is unusual (i.e. need to do quick only, or a very long press to start the output ramping). :shrug:

The drive level of the SL6 is clearly very high on Super Hi, consistent with the output of my Thrunite Scorpion V2. The step-down to Hi after 5 mins is a good safety feature, in my view. I also support the manufacturer’s recommendation to only use Super Hi on 18650. The regular Hi level is still quite respectable, at around the level of most of my XM-L based 1x18650/2xCR123A-sized lights. :thumbsup:

Runtimes are good for the output levels, at all levels tested. Note the fully regulated pattern on 18650, likely due to lower voltage range of the circuit (i.e. multi-power lights rated to take 2x3.7V Li-ions are usually only semi-regulated on 1x3.7V sources).

The build, ergonomics, and features of the Spark SL6 are all good, IMO (although the switches do take some getting used to for timing). I also like the bundled frosted diffuser for added functionality. Although I have reviewed the Cool White 800CW model, a number of other emitter options are available (including Neutral tints). As long as you are thoughtful on how you attempt to run Super Hi, the SL6 could well serve your needs as a small powerhouse XM-L-based light.

----

Spark SL6 800CW provided by Spark for review.


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## AardvarkSagus (Jul 14, 2011)

Very excellent review as usual Seflbuilt. I guess I will need to look into some higher quality 18650's since this mine was one of the lights that didn't manage to last the entire 5 minutes before shutting off in super high. 

Thanks for your rundown!


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## octaf (Jul 14, 2011)

Wow, I guess lots of people were waiting for this review. Thanks much. :thumbsup:


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## jake25 (Jul 14, 2011)

Selfbuilt: Excellent review! Just a few observations/questions for you. Did you place the frosted lens on top of the clear lens? I'm pretty sure you can use just the frosted lens, then the bezel would screw all the way down. Also about the timing "quark" in holding and releasing the switch it's actually Spark's "momentary on" feature, it was designed that way. We tested the SL6 in BigC's home made IS and it got around 630 OTF lumens and held stable


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## picrthis (Jul 14, 2011)

EXCELLANT review, I love these lights so much I have the whole series of them


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## selfbuilt (Jul 14, 2011)

AardvarkSagus said:


> Very excellent review as usual Seflbuilt. I guess I will need to look into some higher quality 18650's since this mine was one of the lights that didn't manage to last the entire 5 minutes before shutting off in super high.


Yes, I can see this level putting a drain on some batteries. I had no issues with any of my current crop of AW protected 2200mAh or my Redilast 2900mAh. 



jake25 said:


> Selfbuilt: Excellent review! Just a few observations/questions for you. Did you place the frosted lens on top of the clear lens? I'm pretty sure you can use just the frosted lens, then the bezel would screw all the way down.


Yes of course, I was just being lazy and popping on top.  Of course, if you want to permanently set it diffused, then making a direct lens swap makes the most sense. 

Personally, I like the option of switching back and forth dynamically, so I think popping on top makes more sense in the field. Much better than actually opening up the head and removing the clear lens outdoors (risking dropping it, letting dust/dirt into the reflector and emitter, etc). The bezel ring seems to screw on enough to hold both lenses down.



> Also about the timing "quark" in holding and releasing the switch it's actually Spark's "momentary on" feature, it was designed that way.


Ah, thanks for the info - that's an undocumented "feature" (i.e. not in the manual).

I can see that it does indeed work for momentary signalling this way, but it is still a little cumbersome (i.e. the sequence is fast click for locked-on, slow click for on-off, slower click for output ramp). I would have found it more intuitive to have reversed for the first two timings (i.e. quick click for momentary, sustained press for locked-on). 

The problem is if you hand the light to someone without instruction, our instinctive finger timings (from conventional clickies) are set to a slow click default (i.e. in the momentary mode time window). It happened to me when I first turned on the light, as it did to two others I handed it to without warning. Both were surprised to see the light turn on-off.

Not a problem per se, but it does mean you have re-teach yourself default clicky timings for the light (much like Zebralight users have had to do). Here again, these Spark lights will feel very familiar to Zebralight users .... 



> We tested the SL6 in BigC's home made IS and it got around 630 OTF lumens and held stable


Good to know, as my estimates are just very approximate based on a comaprison analysis of BigCs and others direct measures.


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## jake25 (Jul 14, 2011)

Selfbuilt: Good points about the frosted lens as well as the momentary on feature.


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## ergotelis (Jul 14, 2011)

All right, won't tell the classic excellent,nice,perfect etc..... 
I just want to ask why did you put that X10 in the photo without saying anything else?!Direct orders??? :laughing:


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## AardvarkSagus (Jul 14, 2011)

ergotelis said:


> I just want to ask why did you put that X10 in the photo without saying anything else?!Direct orders??? :laughing:


Might be...


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## selfbuilt (Jul 14, 2011)

AardvarkSagus said:


> Might be...


No conspiracies.  I've got a lot of lights on hand for testing right now, so I'm trying to streamline my photo taking (i.e. use the same pics in more than one review). You should be seeing more reviews from me on that light (and a bunch of others) shortly. Trust me, it's going to be a busy summer of reviews with everything I've got lined up ...

FYI, I'm going to be on holidays the next few days without internet access, so will check back in on all my threads on Monday. :wave:


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## candle lamp (Jul 15, 2011)

Another excellent review as usual! Selfbuilt. :thumbsup: Thanks so much.

My SL6-740NW purchased from CPFMarketPlace at the end of April has two main issues. I don't have it now.

1. When double-clicking the switch in any mode to access Super (Hi) mode, sometimes it unexpectedly 
flicker like fast strobe mode. But there's no strobe on the light. :shrug:
Have you experienced this kind of issue? 

2. The tailcap switch dosn't work, i.e., can't turn the light on, with a protected button-top 18650 cell
which is a little long & thick because the battery is too tight in the conductive aluminum tube.
I heard Spark modified the aluminum tube for a bigger one. 

In my view, SL6 is a very well made & compact torch except the above issues.

Have you heard if Spark changed or modified the circuit or side switch from the previous version?


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## picrthis (Jul 15, 2011)

The battery fitment issues have been resolved and both switchs work, and w/o the strobe effect that you describe, I'm using Redilast 2900's and the fit is fine now; true very early ones did have an issue, but it's been resolved.


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## TRK (Jul 15, 2011)

"I'll start with the main difference – the SL6 has dual electronic switches, which function inter-changeably (i.e., either one can be used for on/off or mode switching)." - SB


I'm not familiar with these digital switches. What kind of tactile feedback do they give when you push them? Do they still click? Is the pressure to push them much less than a standard mechanical clicky switch? Thanks!


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## HKJ (Jul 15, 2011)

TRK said:


> I'm not familiar with these digital switches. What kind of tactile feedback do they give when you push them? Do they still click? Is the pressure to push them much less than a standard mechanical clicky switch? Thanks!


 
They do click, but it is a very small click. They are much easier to press than a normal clicky and only moves a very short distance (less than a mm).


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## easilyled (Jul 16, 2011)

The Zebralight SC600 (which I have) seems to be this light's most obvious competitor. Its even more compact. A comparison would be very interesting.


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## Splash Damage (Jul 16, 2011)

Great review!  Does the Beam show a Dounut Hole?


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## jhc37013 (Jul 16, 2011)

easilyled said:


> The Zebralight SC600 (which I have) seems to be this light's most obvious competitor. Its even more compact. A comparison would be very interesting.


 
It might be but I can't see owning this light after using ZL's UI for so long, I don't like Sparks ramping to get to a certain output while Zebralight's is faster and easier. I can turn a Zebralight on with either one or two clicks at any output level I choose.


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## candle lamp (Jul 16, 2011)

Splash Damage said:


> Great review!  Does the Beam show a Dounut Hole?



No, SL6 with LOP has floody beam and no dounut hole. It has a nice beam pattern.


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## AardvarkSagus (Jul 16, 2011)

No Doughnut hole with mine either. Nice, floody and even.


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## mxzrevman (Jul 16, 2011)

thanks for the review
i just placed an order for the 800


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## selfbuilt (Jul 18, 2011)

candle lamp said:


> 1. When double-clicking the switch in any mode to access Super (Hi) mode, sometimes it unexpectedly
> flicker like fast strobe mode.
> 2. The tailcap switch dosn't work, i.e., can't turn the light on, with a protected button-top 18650 cell
> which is a little long & thick because the battery is too tight in the conductive aluminum tube.





picrthis said:


> The battery fitment issues have been resolved and both switchs work, and w/o the strobe effect that you describe, I'm using Redilast 2900's and the fit is fine now; true very early ones did have an issue, but it's been resolved.


Certainly no issue on mine. I saw no sign of any strobe-like mode, and all cells (including my Redilast 2900mAh, as mentioned in the review) worked with both switches.



TRK said:


> I'm not familiar with these digital switches. What kind of tactile feedback do they give when you push them? Do they still click? Is the pressure to push them much less than a standard mechanical clicky switch? Thanks!





HKJ said:


> They do click, but it is a very small click. They are much easier to press than a normal clicky and only moves a very short distance (less than a mm).


Yes, that is my assessment as well. Some electronic switchs are very soft, with little tactile feedback. The SL6 switches have a noticeable click, but it is still nowhere near a mechanical clicky. These have one of the better feels for electronic switches.



Splash Damage said:


> Great review!  Does the Beam show a Dounut Hole?


No evidence of one on mine either, but of course YMMV.


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## Hogokansatsukan (Jul 18, 2011)

Well, another very well done review by selfbuilt.
I was waiting for this review as this light "sparked" some interest for me. Not sure if I'll pull the trigger on it though as my SC600 should be arriving today.
Thanks for the review.


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## mxzrevman (Jul 20, 2011)

i just got mine in the mail today
nice fit/finish, feel nice too

just have to wait for the back ordered batteries


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## Fatso (Jul 23, 2011)

Awesome review and pictures!!
I just got my ST6-460NW and I love it!!
Now I need a SL6........


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## selfbuilt (Jul 23, 2011)

FYI, Spark confirms that their lights are current-controlled at all levels. So I suspect HKJ is correct in his assessment of the high frequency noise we both observed on the Lo/Med1 levels of this light (i.e. circuit overcompensating in trying to maintain contant current). In any case, it is not a concern - you will not be able to see it with the naked eye.


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## IMSabbel (Jul 29, 2011)

Got the light. 
First reaction: Wow. Its light as a feather, even with an 18650 cell. 
Seems I have gotten used to Ti editions...

Second Reaction: NICE. I bought quite a few lights the last years, but this is the first small light that really blows away my old trusty P3D. Other lights were brigher, but it was always something you needed to have them both side by side.

But not with the Spark. Switching it on on turbo blows the old fenix out of the water. Its really impressive, as a pocket rocket.


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## candle lamp (Aug 15, 2011)

picrthis said:


> The battery fitment issues have been resolved and both switchs work, and w/o the strobe effect that you describe, I'm using Redilast 2900's and the fit is fine now; true very early ones did have an issue, but it's been resolved.


 


selfbuilt said:


> Certainly no issue on mine. I saw no sign of any strobe-like mode, and all cells (including my Redilast 2900mAh, as mentioned in the review) worked with both switches.


 
Many thanks for the detailed reply. picrthis, selfbuilt! 

It's good new that Spark resolved the issues and have released new version SL6S.


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## brightnorm (Aug 16, 2011)

Yet another superb review from Selfbuilt, though where you get the time is beyond me. 

I just ordered the Spark. For those who would prefer a flip-up beam diffuser I located these from Surefire, one of which may fit the Spark (although they are ridiculously expensive!). 
http://www.opticsplanet.net/surefire-filter-fm14.html

http://www.opticsplanet.net/surefire-filter-fm14.html

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=surefire+flip+up+beamshaper&hl=en&biw=1131&bih=580&gs_upl=1188l5516l0l8266l17l15l0l0l0l0l328l2377l3.9.2.1l15l0&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=2893624265819031259#

 One problematic feature seems to be the long time (slow ramp-up) it takes to access any level, unless I have misinterpreted the information. The light's small size and neat gray look is very appealing. I'm looking forward to using it.

Brightnorm


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## selfbuilt (Aug 18, 2011)

brightnorm said:


> One problematic feature seems to be the long time (slow ramp-up) it takes to access any level, unless I have misinterpreted the information.


I wouldn't say that exactly - it is just that it takes a little getting used to the exact timings for on modes. We are basically talking fractions of a second difference to other lights (except zebralight, which is similar). The actual ramp is comparable to many lights.


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## boudeou (Aug 19, 2011)

ramping is quicker on SL5 than ST5 or SL6
it's a little slow on the 2 last but not very annoying


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## selfbuilt (Aug 21, 2011)

_UPDATE AUGUST 21, 2011: I have now done 100-yard outdoor beamshots, in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up reviews._


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## brightnorm (Aug 21, 2011)

Thanks for those shots; very useful.

Brightnorm


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## TDK9 (Aug 23, 2011)

Strange. I thought that Zebra shines weaker and more diffused light than the Spark. oo:


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## selfbuilt (Aug 24, 2011)

TDK9 said:


> Strange. I thought that Zebra shines weaker and more diffused light than the Spark. oo:


No, the SC600 has more initial output than the Spark. It is just that more of it is found in the spill (i.e. look at the foreground nearest the camera). Throw is somewhat higher on the Spark (but neither is particularly throwy). A full reviews of the SC600 will be up in a couple of days.


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## candle lamp (Aug 24, 2011)

selfbuilt said:


> No, the SC600 has more initial output than the Spark. It is just that more of it is found in the spill (i.e. look at the foreground nearest the camera). Throw is somewhat higher on the Spark (but neither is particularly throwy). A full reviews of the SC600 will be up in a couple of days.


 
Thanks for the above nice beamshots. selfbuilt! 

Will you upload the more pixels of the beamshots for two lights? :naughty:


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## selfbuilt (Aug 24, 2011)

candle lamp said:


> Thanks for the above nice beamshots. selfbuilt!
> Will you upload the more pixels of the beamshots for two lights? :naughty:


Not higher resolution, but I will post a thread with higher color and clearer JPG versions of the new outdoor images I've done. I do all my editing and pic prep at the 640x480 size (since anything else is unwieldy when converting down to animated GIFs).


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## candle lamp (Aug 26, 2011)

selfbuilt said:


> Not higher resolution, but I will post a thread with higher color and clearer JPG versions of the new outdoor images I've done. I do all my editing and pic prep at the 640x480 size (since anything else is unwieldy when converting down to animated GIFs).


 
Thanks again. Selfbuilt!
I understand resizing the pictures. Your beamshots are very heplfup to me. :twothumbs


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## skatenut (Nov 13, 2011)

Nice flashlight!

It does become very hot within a short time (approx. 5 minutes) in maximum mode, though. Starts flashing then and switches back to a lower mode. Had a little trouble getting the double-click just right, initially.


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## DisrupTer911 (Jan 5, 2012)

with AW 2900mAh 18650, whats the normal voltage for the battery to be after after it's been depleted?

Right now my batteries are sitting at 3.97v and I'm just curious to figure out what amount of capacity is left at this point.


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## selfbuilt (Jan 5, 2012)

DisrupTer911 said:


> with AW 2900mAh 18650, whats the normal voltage for the battery to be after after it's been depleted?
> Right now my batteries are sitting at 3.97v and I'm just curious to figure out what amount of capacity is left at this point.


AFAIK, most protection circuits are set to trigger somewhere ~2.4V (but that's under load). If the protection trips while driving the cell on Hi at full regulation (as the Spark does), it will almost immediately bounce back to somewhere north of ~2.7V, resting. If the light slowly drains the 18650 at lower and lower output levels (as unregulated light do), don't expect the cell to bounce back much at all once the circuit is tripped. 

Frankly, those cells should be discarded, as you should never keep using cells that had a sustained voltage lower than 2.7V. Even running up to the protection circuit at full regulation will cause at least a few seconds/mins of <2.7V, which is harmful to cells. This is why the protection circuit is not something you should rely on - cells should be recharged more frequently, to keep their good health. If you trigger the cell's protection circuit, you are shortening the life of your cell (either slightly or signficantly each time, depending on how fast you got there).

Not sure off-hand what to expect at just under 4V resting - the experts in the "flashlight electronics - batteries included" forum may be able to give you a good estimate, though.


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## DisrupTer911 (Jan 5, 2012)

Well these are 4 brand new AW2900 cells and out of the packaging they're at 3.96-3.97v.

Should I charge them up to the 4.2v before using them at all?


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## HKJ (Jan 6, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> AFAIK, most protection circuits are set to trigger somewhere ~3.4V (but that's under load). If the protection trips while driving the cell on Hi at full regulation (as the Spark does), it will almost immediately bounce back to somewhere north of ~3.7V, resting. If the light slowly drains the 18650 at lower and lower output levels (as unregulated light do), don't expect the cell to bounce back much at all once the circuit is tripped.
> 
> Frankly, those cells should be discarded, as you should never keep using cells that had a sustained voltage lower than 3.7V. Even running up to the protection circuit at full regulation will cause at least a few seconds/mins of <3.7V, which is harmful to cells. This is why the protection circuit is not something you should rely on - cells should be recharged more frequently, to keep their good health. If you trigger the cell's protection circuit, you are shortening the life of your cell (either slightly or signficantly each time, depending on how fast you got there).
> 
> Not sure off-hand what to expect at just under 4V resting - the experts in the "flashlight electronics - batteries included" forum may be able to give you a good estimate, though.




The AW2900 cells can be discharged down to to 2.5 volt without problems. In fact it is required to get the full capacity.

Generally protection circuit on all LiIon cell will first trigger somewhere below 2.8 volt. In my LiIon tests I always discharges to 2.8 volt and has never triggered a protection circuit yet, due to under voltage.


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## selfbuilt (Jan 6, 2012)

DisrupTer911 said:


> Well these are 4 brand new AW2900 cells and out of the packaging they're at 3.96-3.97v. Should I charge them up to the 4.2v before using them at all?


Oops, sorry DisrupTer911 - looking over my post, I meant to say "2" every place I put a "3" in my original post last night (sorry, I was in rush and wasn't thinking clearly ). So, the general advice was that you would normally want to keep your cells above 2.7V, and I believe most circuits trigger somewhere ~2.4V.

~4V is still a reasonably good charge, but I'm not sure how much runtime you would expect.



HKJ said:


> The AW2900 cells can be discharged down to to 2.5 volt without problems. In fact it is required to get the full capacity.
> Generally protection circuit on all LiIon cell will first trigger somewhere below 2.8 volt. In my LiIon tests I always discharges to 2.8 volt and has never triggered a protection circuit yet, due to under voltage.


Thanks HKJ, interesting about the newer 2900 cells. My understanding from earlier battery forum discussions is that most circuits trigger in the low 2.x V range, and 2.7V is what you want to stay above for good health.


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## HKJ (Jan 6, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Thanks HKJ, interesting about the newer 2900 cells. My understanding from earlier battery forum discussions is that most circuits trigger in the low 2.x V range, and 2.7V is what you want to stay above for good health.



Hopefully the protection is in the 2.5 to 2.7 volt range on most cell, only the new Panasonic 2900 and 3100 need a lower protection voltage.
I did not include any test of this in my large 18650 test for a couple of reasons (The new Panasonic cells being one reason and unprotected cells being another reason).


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## DisrupTer911 (Jan 6, 2012)

Thanks guys! You've been a great help in helping me to understand this 18650 world.


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## HIDblue (Feb 16, 2012)

Does anyone know if the SL6 can be set to turn on to the Super Hi mode from off?


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## picrthis (Feb 16, 2012)

I have a couple of those (SL6) and the short answer is NO.


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## jake25 (Feb 16, 2012)

HIDblue said:


> Does anyone know if the SL6 can be set to turn on to the Super Hi mode from off?


The same double click from On or Off will put the SL6 in super mode. So yes it can be turned on directly to Super mode from off.


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## Tapis (Oct 26, 2014)

Thanks for the review. Sorry to bump this up, but I was searching for a 1x18650 flashlight that would have a permanent diffuser, not a flip-up one like the EagleTac G25c2 for example, and I found this one. I like the fact that the beam is kind of floody in the first place without the diffuser installed, so I might decide to go without if after all. The simpler SL6S model without tail switch is even more convenient, althought it is a pitty it doesn't have a moonlight mode as well.


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## selfbuilt (Oct 26, 2014)

Tapis said:


> Thanks for the review. Sorry to bump this up, but I was searching for a 1x18650 flashlight that would have a permanent diffuser, not a flip-up one like the EagleTac G25c2 for example, and I found this one.


Well, you could turn any flightlight you like into a floody one, by applying a diffuser film covering. There are a number of options out there, discussed in various threads here. There may even be some replacement lens that are frosted.


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