# Maglite 2D SSC P4 Micropuck Tutorial (loads of pics)



## Essexman (May 5, 2007)

Following on from 3rd Shifts great tutorials, here's my own.
In this tutorial I plan to show how to build a Maglite 2D fitted with a SSC P4 emitter powered with 2 D cells by a Micropuck boost driver.


Parts list:
Here's a list of where I got all my parts, there are alternatives, so look around for yourself. Bear in mind I'm based in the UK, you may find a better deal depending were you live.

Maglite 2D - This one was custom machined by CPF member RCatR, see here 
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/160689
Or for a standard maglite (if you are in the UK) www.7dayshop.com have many colours at a good price. 
Heatsink - from Warren at Litemania in dealers section see here
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/153522
Driver - Luxdrive MicroPuck 2009A SHO 500mA from http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/ .Please note: these were not on the website, but I emailed them and they got some in a couple of weeks (very good customer service).
Conductive glue - I use two part epoxy mixed 50/50 with zinc oxide powder (borrowed from work).
Heat sink compound - RS supplies.
Tool list:
Hacksaw
Pliers
Allen keys
Side cutters
Wire strippers
Soldering iron
A nice cup of tea and biscuit (optional)



Here's the nice new Maglite 2D










Reflector

Take everything apart. Take the head off the body, unscrew the front and remove the clear lens, o ring and put in a safe place. Take the reflector and cut off the long cammed straight. Leave around 2 to 3mm of tube. BE CAREFUL don't clean any plastic bits off the reflector with your fingers/a rag etc, it will scratch VERY easily. 
Sorry forgot to take any pics.


Switch mod and driver

Remove the rubber boot on the switch with fingernails or small screw driver (gently). Undo the hexagon grub screw with an Allen key.

Push the switch down and push it out the back of the body.

Use the same Allen key to undo the bulbholder, remove and throw it in the bin. Cut the long tube down to the base of the switch body.







Cut/snip the negative tag down to the same length as the plastic tube. Solder the black wire of the Micropuck to the negative tag at the bottom, and the red wire to the positive on the side of the switch. You can cover the bare wires with heat shrink tubing as I did, but it's not necessary.







Re-install the switch, place the Micro puck through the Maglite first so that it dangles out the top when the switch is in place. DO NOT PUT BATTERIES IN, the Micropuck will die if powered up without any load (i.e. LED) connected to it. You can guess how I found that out....



Emitter/Heatsink

Take the emitter and straighten the two leads gently with a pair of pliers. 







Put the conductive glue on the heatsink and place the emitter. The heat sink from litemania come anodised so there's no need to isolate the SSC emitter base, it also has a locating ring which really helps centre the emitter. Once stuck leave to dry. You can apply slight pressure during curing, I did this with an old 27mm optic and a battery.









Wire up emitter

Once dry, you now have to solder the output leads from the micropuck to the emitter. Before that, you need to cut down the emitter leads. I just used a pair of side cutters. 







Now tin the emitter leads and the driver wires with solder. Pass the two wires through the heatsink holes and solder to the emitter leads. Steady hands required. Make sure you get the wires the correct way round. 

Green = Negative

Orange = Positive

The negative side of the emitter has a "U" shape removed from the metal.









Now you can put some batteries in an check it works before final assembly.









I don't like parts rattling around, so I glued the driver down to the underside of the heatsink, and place some more glue around the holes where the two wires enter to prevent any movement during use.









Once the glue has set, insert the heatsink into the Maglite. Put some heatsink compound around the heatsink to ensure good heat transfer to the body of the maglite.







Be aware that depending on the colour finish the fit of the heatsink can be loose or tight. If tight you will need to sand the inside of the maglite. This one was loose, so I used a centre punch on the outside of the heatsink to make four burrs, which made a tight fit. 

Now screw on the head and power up.















Other stuff:
If you want a more powerful output you can use two micropucks, that should give around 850 to 900mA to the emitter, but run time will be reduced.
I've not had time to take any current measurements, Lux measurements or beamshots, I'll try to update over the coming weeks.

Now go, build, enjoy.


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## Flash Harry (May 5, 2007)

Essexman said:


> A nice cup of tea and biscuit (optional)


 
That brings back memories of the old country. The English can handle everything from stubbing a toe to the Apocalypse itself providing there's a cuppa at the end of it.

Thanks for the great tutorial. :goodjob:


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## rcnuk (May 5, 2007)

Nice tutorial!
I have the heat sink/emitter on order and planning to mod my 1st Seoul M*g soon. I planned to direct drive it with a resistor. Now I may have to try a puck. Is this the same one you used: *Puck*

Thanks for the tutorial!


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## Mr_Light (May 5, 2007)

Here is the cheapest place in US for the SHO MicroPuck.

http://www.ledsupply.com/02009-sho.php


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## nanotech17 (May 5, 2007)

Anybody knows how to attach 2xmicropucks in 1 maglite?
2 x micropucks with 2 x 18650 cell is it ok?


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## rcnuk (May 5, 2007)

Take a look a the application notes found from the link above. It has the connection diagrams. It shows a buck/boost parallel setup that is rated to 7v, not sure if it'll handle fresh 18650s.



nanotech17 said:


> Anybody knows how to attach 2xmicropucks in 1 maglite?
> 2 x micropucks with 2 x 18650 cell is it ok?


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## nanotech17 (May 5, 2007)

you know sometimes those diagrams really make a person like me more confused


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## Essexman (May 5, 2007)

Thanks for the kind words guys.

rcnuk - yep that's the same one.

nanotech17 - sorry I've no idea ! I've only ever used the micropuck as a boost driver. You could try posting the question in the ElektroLumens area of this site. Wanye (Mr ElektroLumens) has much more experience in using the micropucks.


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## Ikonomi (May 5, 2007)

Wonderful tutorial and a very handsome mod! I have been getting interested in those pucks for a while now, but my knowledge of them is sorely lacking. I guess it's time to do some reading up.


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## X_Marine (May 9, 2007)

Ikonomi said:


> Wonderful tutorial and a very handsome mod! I have been getting interested in those pucks for a while now, but my knowledge of them is sorely lacking. I guess it's time to do some reading up.


Howdy neighbor.. ')
Nice tut and pics. I'm interested in doing similar with 2C or 3C, possibly with AW's C-li-ions and agree completely. The time for reading has arrived. 

ThanX
X.


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## nanotech17 (May 9, 2007)

need some beamshots


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## Timson (May 10, 2007)

rcnuk said:


> Nice tutorial!
> I have the heat sink/emitter on order and planning to mod my 1st Seoul M*g soon. I planned to direct drive it with a resistor. Now I may have to try a puck. Is this the same one you used: *Puck*
> 
> Thanks for the tutorial!



I did a DD version from 3 x NiMh C's and 2 parallel 1 ohm resistors (total of 0.5ohms of resistance)

On fresh cells I'm getting 900ma to the emitter.  


Tim.


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## nanotech17 (May 19, 2007)

900ma/1000ma x ( average 1.4v each ) 4.2v = 3.78 watts
If you want to use the cheap driver with 700ma to the emitter,you can get it here - 
http://www.besthongkong.com/product_info.php?products_id=447
or triple the emitter with the other driver that support 3 emitters.


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## knot (May 19, 2007)

Wow, that looked incredibly easy. Why am I buying mag dropins with no good heat sink? How much for one of these with a cree ( or SSC P4) for a 3D mag? (point me to a thread?)

Perhaps I should wait for the 10watt HID module - like the first calculators @ $200.00 the price of HID is bound to come down.


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## Cydonia (May 19, 2007)

knot said:


> Wow, that looked incredibly easy. Why am I buying mag dropins with no good heat sink? How much for one of these with a cree ( or SSC P4) for a 3D mag? (point me to a thread?)



2 MicroPucks @ $9.99 each = $20 + shipping ($5?)
1 Hotlips - C (C size Maglite project) @ $12.00
1 Seoul SSC P4 @ $12.50
1 tube Arctic Silver epoxy @ $13.25
Get the pucks from theledsupply. Other 3 parts from Sandwich Shoppe.
Total price "to your door" looks to be about $70US inc. shipping.
I factor in 2 pucks (aka 2009's) because I would want to drive the SSC with Two 2009's in Parallel, Buck/Boost arrangement as shown on page 6 of the .pdf Application Note. 
In my theoretical project... with a 4C cell Maglite... would give about 65% efficiency and about 800ma to the LED. That gives the range and flexibility for 4 NiMh AA's or even Lithium AA (yes, in a C Maglite with battery spacer sleeve).

Apart from my Crank Generator project... I've strenuously avoided getting sucked into this modding business. But with such junk floating around out there and so few options for LED Maglite upgrades... I'm going to have to drag out ye old soldering gear and plunge right on into the fray.
:thumbsdow

Thanks to Essexman for another fine tutorial with pictures 
(Sorry to hear you lost a MicroPuck from having no load... if you had the extra one, would you have used it in parallel to drive the LED at near twice the curent?)


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## Cydonia (May 19, 2007)

knot said:


> Wow, that looked incredibly easy. Why am I buying mag dropins with no good heat sink? How much for one of these with a cree ( or SSC P4) for a 3D mag? (point me to a thread?)



I just re-read your question and see it would be for your 3 cell mag. From what I understand (or don't understand) a single MicroPuck can't take over 3volts. To go higher, you have to use 2 MicroPucks in a Buck/Boost configuration. Schematic is on page 6 of that Application Note pdf. I believe... you would have to use this arrangement for a 3 and 4 cell set up in the 1-7 volt range. For 5 -6 cell and beyond, the Wired BuckPuck 3023 ($17.99) is the best way. 95% efficiency (as most buck's are) VS. 66% for two MicroPucks in Buck/Boost. I carefully checked the size of this 3023 module and it can fit inside the 26.3mm new C cell Maglite! Good for a 5-7 C Mag or a 2C using li-ion?


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## Aepoc (May 20, 2007)

I mounted a Piglet on my mag mod. I used the same heatsink and a seoul P4. The only other thing different about my light is the clickey tailcap and its sub 1D size. My favorite mod up to date.


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## Minjin (May 21, 2007)

Whats a good converter to use with a 2D driving one seoul P4 at 1A?


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## Essexman (May 21, 2007)

Wow this thread is growing. Thanks for the kind words everyone. 

*Nanotech17* - Those drivers you gave a link for appear to work from 12V input, so I guess they're buck drivers (i.e. they reduce the voltage), I was using a boost driver. 

*Knot* - Yes this is a fairly easy mod, depends if you have all the tools, and time.

*Cydonia* - Remember that the base of an SSC P4 led is positive, so you need to isolate it from the heatsink, the heatsink you gave a link to is bare alu, the one I used was anodised to isolate it.

I've since built another mag for myself (I sold the other Two) using two micropucks, much brighter, around 15,00 lux at 1m, I'll get round to taking some current measurements one day. Also you can use three micropucks..........

My master plan would be to have another switch to give Hi (two or three micropucks) and Low (one micropuck). I have a suitable switch, I just need to find the time.



There are many different drivers/batteries that you can use. Here's an old thread showing some drivers and what they can be used for https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/111824&highlight=driver+guide



Back to work......


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## joedm (Jun 2, 2007)

Great work. I did something similar with a Mag4D but used a DX 800mA driver.

Anyway, just wanted to say that in my mod the nice cup of tea and biscuit wasn't optional. :twothumbs

Oh yes beamshots please.


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## catmouse (Jun 3, 2007)

Hey Essexman, what kind of switch you plan to use for you master plan. I am planning the same mod for a 2c. 

---My master plan would be to have another switch to give Hi (two or three micropucks) and Low (one micropuck). I have a suitable switch, I just need to find the time.


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## The-David (Jun 7, 2007)

So what would be the best driver for a singel SSC emmiter in driven by 2C cells? I am looking to go atleast 750ma probley 1000, I was looking through http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php?cPath=48_49_61 but dont understand much.


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## joedm (Jun 7, 2007)

KE7AYF said:


> So what would be the best driver for a singel SSC emmiter in driven by 2C cells? I am looking to go atleast 750ma probley 1000, I was looking through http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php?cPath=48_49_61 but dont understand much.



Why don't you just use one of these from www.dealextreme.com?? 
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1885







I am currently using the 800mA board from DX however I will be changing to this one (1050mA) as soon as I get my order (maybe today).


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## The-David (Jun 7, 2007)

joedm said:


> Why don't you just use one of these from www.dealextreme.com??
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1885
> 
> 
> ...



will this run off of 2xC's with 1.5v for a tottle of 3v? from what it seas on there webpage that driver needs "3.6V~4.5V (such as 1x rechargeable lithium battery, 2xAA, 2xAAA, 3xAA, and 3xAA batteries)". Outher than that my oinley problem is I dont need 10 of them. If you have one you wouldent mind parting with let me know.


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## Taylornic (Jun 10, 2007)

What would be the best way to do 3 and 4D lights?

1. Wire 2 x 2009's for buck/boost.
2. Use a BuckPuck only

Opinions on performance differences??? 

Thanks,
Taylor


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## Cydonia (Jun 10, 2007)

A buckpuck is listed as operating between 5-32 volts. I think that when the input volatge drops below 5v it drops out of regulation... I'm not sure what happens when a buckpuck is fed under 5v! Over 5v and it is operating at 95% efficiency as buck circuits usually do. A Buckpuck is ideal for 5 and 6 cell lights. (By the way, I carefully measured the inside a the new C Maglites and, according to the dimensions given in the buckpuck info sheet, a buckpuck should fit in the C Mag tube ok if you want to use that size Maglite as host)

Two 2009s in a Parallel, buck/boost configuration (as shown on page 6 of the micropuck data sheet) have 65% efficiency. Their current to the LED is less than two 2009's in direct parallel (like from 2 cells).

A single micropuck in buck "topology" is good for between 3.7 and 8v. Between 82% (7 & 8v) and 90% (4 - 5.5v) efficiency.

= = = =

So, IMHO, for a low power 500ma to a Cree or SSC, a single micropuck in buck mode, on a 3 cell flashlight is at best efficiency for a micropuck. For a 4 cell light, two micropucks in parallel buck boost are good, but you get less than the double power to the LED, and lower efficiency. But an input volatge between 1 and 7v...

If you get the pucks from LED Supply, a BuckPuck is $3 less than two MicroPucks. A single buckpuck, available in 1000ma, will work on a 4 cell but I don't know what happens when the volatage dips below 5v. It won't take long for that to happen either, since 4 cells of alkaline - especially nimh - are so close to that 5v cuttoff already...

It took me long time to weigh out all the pros and cons of the many configurations for my project too... ended up going micropuck route 
(But then again I plan on using a 2 cell mag...)
I've just probably added more confusion instead of helping


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## ace0001a (Jun 10, 2007)

I've looked at the Micropuck applications sheet many a times in my search for a good driver for a 3 cell configuration flashlight (like a Mag). The problem with the Micropuck in Buck/Boost mode is that you'd only get around 200mA with one puck and around 400mA with 2 if I'm reading the application sheet correctly. Now I've heard you can run more than 2 together, but then the question is how much of a hit will you take in runtime? Wayne (aka Elektrolumens) has discussed this before is his Manufacturer's thread:

"Doubling up pucks ups the output dramtically. Two 350mA pucks stacked put out 500mA, three stacked is around 700mA. Two stacked pucks really suck the power out of batteries fast. I have not tested the new SHO pucks stacked yet. As they are already 500mA ouput to begin with. I would imagine 700mA to 750mA for two stacked. Stacking pucks changes the way they boost significantly. Rather than lasting 24 hours to 50% of original brightness as with a single puck, two pucks stacked seem to try to maintain constant brightness for just a few hours. This will need to be documented with a run time test, comparing one puck boost and two stacked pucks boost, from 2D. And with NIMH batteries it is a lot different than with alkies." -Elektrolumens

I would say to anyone interested in doing a 3-4 cell Mag mod here would be better off using one of the drivers that DX or Kaidomain has been selling. It'll take a few weeks to order and get to you, but should offer better overall performance:

3 Cell
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1885

3-4 Cell
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4255

And of course The Sandwich Shoppe has a good selection of drivers:

http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php?cPath=48_49_61

I was also considering using a Buckpuck in a 2D Mag with 2 Litemania 3AA to 1D battery adapters (3.6V-4.5 each). There are so many options out there for Mag modding...got to love that!

:thumbsup:


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## Taylornic (Jun 10, 2007)

Lots of good info, thanks! 

I have seen the drivers from DX mentioned previously, but the DX site has been down for me for the past 7 days now. I will check the Sandwich Shoppe also.

Are there any pics or tutorials on mounting these type of drivers? I'm one of those types that can't do it until I have see it done before.


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## Cydonia (Jun 10, 2007)

Yup. Two MicroPucks in the parallel, buck/boost topology is the most inefficient usage. I am hoping that 2 in straight parallel from 2 cells will live up to the datasheet suggestions... otherwise I screwed up in choosing these things! I got the SHO models (super high output 500ma)... 

The great thing about the pucks is their epoxy encapsulated nature. No inductor coils exposed to feel G forces when dropped... immune to moisture and water (according to spec sheets)... and sooo small! 
I'd rather use sealed pucks than those other open circuit drivers


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## Mr_Light (Jun 10, 2007)

I am using 2 SHO MicroPucks in a 2D Mag with a LiteMania heatsink. Nice and bright, haven't measure run time. I have also ordered some of the following drivers from dealextreme to try to save a little money over the $20 for two micropucks.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4382
700mA 2.5W Regulated Circuit Board for DIY Flashlights (3V Input) 5-Pack $9.95


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## nanotech17 (Jun 10, 2007)

Hi all,
Care to share some photos on how to do the wiring using the 1040mA from DX or 2 boards in 1 mag 2D?

Thanks.


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## ace0001a (Jun 11, 2007)

Cydonia said:


> Yup. Two MicroPucks in the parallel, buck/boost topology is the most inefficient usage. I am hoping that 2 in straight parallel from 2 cells will live up to the datasheet suggestions... otherwise I screwed up in choosing these things! I got the SHO models (super high output 500ma)...
> 
> The great thing about the pucks is their epoxy encapsulated nature. No inductor coils exposed to feel G forces when dropped... immune to moisture and water (according to spec sheets)... and sooo small!
> I'd rather use sealed pucks than those other open circuit drivers



Yeah, I wish Luxdrive would come out with an improved Micropuck. In the meantime, I've had no issues with the bare drivers. If internal damage is a concern, you can do what Gene (Malkoff Devices) does and thermal epoxy the driver to the inside of the heatsink. He told me he encapsulates the bare driver with thermal epoxy. As we know (and as shown in the above pictures), there's room to do so on the underside of the O-Sink. Gene has also told me that he also solders the negative pad on the circuit board directly to the heatsink. So I figure it you do that with a bare driver, it should be safe from drop damage and water resistant.


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## RustyKnee (Jun 11, 2007)

nice write up and info compilation.

Its inspired me todo my own mag mod.

Probably 4 seouls.

Stu


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## kavvika (Nov 16, 2007)

I plan on doing a mod like this in a 2C Mag powered by 2 Alkaline or NiMh C-cells, with a SCC P4 LED. Can someone recommend a good, efficient converter from DX that will run the LED at between 800ma and 1A that will work at a voltage between 2.4 and 3? I know what I could run 2 SHO micropucks, but they seem kind of inefficient to me.

Also, what other lights could I take drivers from? I was thinking about using 2 MagLED drivers or maybe a Task Force 2C driver. Does the 2 cell MiniMagLED use the same driver as the 2 cell MagLED upgrade module?


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## Essexman (Nov 19, 2007)

> Can someone recommend a good, efficient converter from DX that will run the LED at between 800ma and 1A that will work at a voltage between 2.4 and 3?


 
The same question has been haunting many of us. There's been a few discussions lately.

George at taskled.com may have some VIP drivers left, I think there was two levels available approx 700mA and 1000mA.

Kia has a adjustable multilevel driver here http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=169324&page=3

It's worth reading all of that thread to determine if it's suitable for your project.

I've used one of these in my 2D Mag and find it to be very good, considering the cost. Bear in mind that you will need to be OK with soldering small wires to use these.

Let us know how you get on.


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## deeuubee (Nov 19, 2007)

I ordered a couple of those VIP drivers rom TaskLed: 2 - 750ma and 1- 1000ma. There's only a few left. I like the idea of dimming (if I can find the right micro switch) and running on two 10Kmah D rechargeables. Now to test my steady hands.

Thanks Essexman, your mod pushed me down this road.

I just found out about the new Accupower low self discharge rechargeable 10K D cells ...that makes me even


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## Essexman (Nov 20, 2007)

> Thanks Essexman, your mod pushed me down this road.


 
Glad to be of help.



> I ordered a couple of those VIP drivers rom TaskLed: 2 - 750ma and 1- 1000ma. There's only a few left. I like the idea of dimming (if I can find the right micro switch) and running on two 10Kmah D rechargeables. Now to test my steady hands.


 
Don't forget to let us know how you get on. Those VIP drivers do look tempting.........


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## SafetyBob (Dec 14, 2007)

I should have posted earlier, but I finally put one of the VIP's into a 2C setup with a Cree Q5. I goofed up the first one while fiddling with my setup (this was my first real no kidding mod...even made my own heatsink on the lathe too). 

I can report it is nice and brite. I am using the VIP 700 with the stock [email protected] reflector cut down. I need to steal the stippled one I got from Gene that I have in a 3C with the Malkoff drop-in installed (now that light is huge for light....maybe too much for the wife). This 2C was a test for her since the 3C was "too big". 

I did not pot it in even though it is 1/4 of an inch from the heatsink. Should I? I am thinking my next one I will. That will be a 2D or a 3D with a single Cree and a VIP 1000. 

Since these are gone and old news I will have to ask George what to do next. I like the simplicity (mainly for others) of on and off, but this dimming thing......that has real merit as I can see you use high to get things in order, go to med or low to sit around and play cards or whatever during power outage or perhaps camping duties. 

I have a couple of micropucks to play with too. To many lights to build. Darn the luck. 

Bob E.


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## SafetyBob (Dec 14, 2007)

To solve the many questions raised here I now have an official "assistance" email to LedDynamics concerning our problems choosing an easy driver. 

Specifically what I requested was what would be the best driver(s) for driving a single LED with 2, 3, and 4 cell batteries. I basically stated that I know the Micropuck is a good 2 cell solution for 350mA but we need to have 700mA and 1000mA solutions that are efficient also. 

I also asked specifically about driving a single LED with a 6xAA and a 9xAA battery setup also. Again looking for single level, effecient solutions. We shall await their answer which I assume with come Monday. Stay tuned. 

Bob E.


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## nicknich22931 (Sep 28, 2008)

I did a similar mod to that described by Essexman, but with a Cree Q4 XR-E Star instead of the SSC P4. I also used a reflector/LED holder available from DX, http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13803 for $6.68. See https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/207867 for a discussion on the product.






I had a bare P4 but thought the star would work better.

To get better heat sinking, I first cut the end off the brass LED holder that comes with the reflector (so it would fit down inside the C Maglite body I was using), cut about 1/4 inch off a Radio Shack 276-1368 heat sink and thermal epoxied it to the back side of the brass holder.






Since the reflector was designed to mount and focus a P7, I wanted to be able to adjust the focus after installing the star, so I enlarged the end of the reflector with a file, giving the star room to come through the opening. Rotating the brass holder varies the focal length. Once I had it where I wanted it, a coating of Shoe-Goo on the outside keeps it there. The Shoe-Goo stays rubbery so can be removed if I need to get things apart.






I used a 500 MA MicroPuck-SHO to drive it. At that level, nothing gets warm to the touch, not even the surface of the star.

It has a nice round smooth hot spot with lots of spill and is easy on the two C alkalines.

The lens bezel does not screw all the way down, the lip of the reflector is too thick. I will sand it down on a belt sander later, when I get the chance.


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## hank (Oct 24, 2009)

> I now have an official "assistance" email to LedDynamics concerning
> our problems choosing an easy driver. 

And did they take any notice of your email? Anyone else got an updated idea?


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