# Olight T20



## ernsanada (Aug 10, 2007)

*Olight T20 and Olight T20 Q5*

I just received the Olight T20 from Matt from Battery Junction, Battery Junction T20

This is the Olight T20 CPF Market Place Link, CPF Market Place

Specifications from Olight Website, Olight

Product Description£º 
1.Cree Super Bright LED;

2.Unique digital circuit control technique;

3.Auto-remember the current bright level when power is off;

4.Humanized operation and anti-roll design;

5.Five bright levels and two SOS flash modes and strobe;

6.Low voltage warning (flash);

7.High strength structure design and water resistant;



Specification:

1. LED type:Cree 7090 XR-E, 3W;

2. function:Illumination,five levels.160lm(1.5h)-90lm(3.8h)-50lm(10h)-25lm(30h)-10lm(70h),Strobe(160lm/1.5h) and SOS,160lm(3.5h)-25lm(10h);

3. Battery: Use 2 x CR123A batteries or 2x4.2v rechargeable batteries;

4. Size:124mm(L)*25mm(D)

weight:65g

5. Accessories: one Holster,one lanyard ,two spare O-rings, one tailcap. 

-------------------------------------------------------------------

The Olight T20 I received from Battery Junction is very well made. 

The fit and finish is excellent.

The Type III Hard Anodize is excellent.

The T20 is a reverse clickie. Soft press the switch to get to the different light modes. Goes from high or what level you want to set the T20 to, strobe and SOS.

To get to the different light levels twist the Bezel. There are 5 light levels. The T20 will remember which level the light was last set on. In SOS mode there are 2 brightness levels.

The T20 has a low level voltage warning flash. I have not run down a set of batteries to test this feature.

Matt from Battery Junction supplied me with some Panasonic CR123A 3V Lithium Batteries. I tried some AW RCR123 Protected Batteries but they would not fit. The T20 can operate with RCR123's but you have to find the ones that will fit.

I really like the UI of the T20. It is very easy to use.

I also like the anti-roll bezel. 












The Olight T20 comes with a holster, lanyard, spare o-rings and rear rubber boot for the rear switch.




































Uses a Cree 7090 XR-E, 3W.






Reverse Clickie











Rear of Cree 7090 XRE Module






Inside view of the rear switch.






Battery Tube






Included Holster































Size comparison to, Left to right, Olight T20, Wolf-Eyes 6A Sniper, Ultrafire 502B 

[





Size comparison to, Left to right, Olight T20, Wolf-Eyes 6A Sniper, Ultrafire 502B 






In these beam shots the Olight T20 used 2 Panasonic CR123A 3V Lithium Batteries. The Wolf-Eyes 6A Sniper used 2 Panasonic CR123A 3V Lithium Batteries. The Ultrafire 502B used a Tenergy 18650 Protected (purchased previously from Battery Junction).

Olight T20 @ 80"






Wolf-Eyes 6A Sniper @ 80"






Ultrafire 502B @ 80"






Olight T20 @ 80" Stepped down exposure






Wolf-Eyes 6A Sniper @ 80" Stepped down exposure






Ultrafire 502B @ 80" Stepped down exposure


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## Oculus Sinister (Aug 10, 2007)

Thank you Ernsanada for another well done review. Shame this light is finicky about fitting RCR123, is it the tube narrowing towards the tail?


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## half-watt (Aug 10, 2007)

Oculus Sinister said:


> Shame this light is finicky about fitting RCR123, is it the tube narrowing towards the tail?



no, my tube won't fit from either end and doesn't seem to fit any better from one end or the other.

however, Olight is sending new tubes slightly larger ID (inside diameter) tubes/barrels to at least one dealer and one is coming my way. after receiving it and trying various RCR's, i'll post back and update the "go - no go" list in a prev. Post of mine.


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## AFAustin (Aug 10, 2007)

Thanks, Ernie. Beautiful photos, as always. 

Didn't realize how slim this light is till I saw it next to the WE 6A (one of my current favorite lights, BTW). I like that faceted bezel. Overall, the T20 has a very svelte & sleek look. 

I do hope they remedy the narrow tube issue, though.


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## ernsanada (Aug 10, 2007)

AFAustin said:


> Thanks, Ernie. Beautiful photos, as always.
> 
> Didn't realize how slim this light is till I saw it next to the WE 6A (one of my current favorite lights, BTW). I like that faceted bezel. Overall, the T20 has a very svelte & sleek look.
> 
> I do hope they remedy the narrow tube issue, though.




Yes the T20 is slim, narrow and light. 

Both the T20 and the WE 6A uses the same batteries, 2 each.

I read that Olight maybe in the future working on a larger tube to accept the 18650 battery.


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## jsr (Aug 10, 2007)

Very slim...looks like a great alternative to the P3D. The head reminds me of a Pelican. Too bad the switch isn't a forward clicky.


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## ernsanada (Aug 10, 2007)

jsr said:


> Very slim...looks like a great alternative to the P3D. The head reminds me of a Pelican. Too bad the switch isn't a forward clicky.




I think the reason a forward clickie isn't being used is because you push the switch "soft' or half way to get to other light modes, bright, strobe and SOS.


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## x2x3x2 (Aug 10, 2007)

Nice, it looks like a cross between a Pelican M6 and Fenix build wise.


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## jsr (Aug 11, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> I think the reason a forward clickie isn't being used is because you push the switch "soft' or half way to get to other light modes, bright, strobe and SOS.


 
I have the 5-Mode module one of my Dereelight CL1H 2.0s that operates the same way (half press to change modes), but the CL1H uses a forward clicky. Wish Olight would make it fit at least 17670s...that would be good enough for me.

BTW, check your PM. Thanks.


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## half-watt (Aug 11, 2007)

AFAustin said:


> Thanks, Ernie. Beautiful photos, as always.
> 
> Didn't realize how slim this light is till I saw it next to the WE 6A (one of my current favorite lights, BTW). I like that faceted bezel. Overall, the T20 has a very svelte & sleek look.
> 
> I do hope they remedy the narrow tube issue, though.





New tubes from Tina at Olight are even now winging their way to MattK over at BatteryJunction.com, along with one specifically for me (since i live maybe 30-45 min max. from Matt, logistically this was a simple way for Tina to get me a tube to try with my other RCR's - somewhere, maybe in another Thread - i forget ("old-timers") i reported which RCR's fit and which ones don't.


i'll report back with an updated "fit-list" in about a week or so after i get the new RCR-tube from Matt.

i too would very much like to see an 18650 tube. given the larger dia. head and tail on the T20, it would still be a nice looking light with a larger OD for the middle. it certainly wouldn't look like the T20 has a middle-age "paunch" or "gut" around the middle.


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## ernsanada (Aug 15, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> Yes the T20 is slim, narrow and light.
> 
> Both the T20 and the WE 6A uses the same batteries, 2 each.
> 
> I read that Olight maybe in the future working on a larger tube to accept the 18650 battery.



Oilight has said they may not be able to do a 18650 tube, quote "About the 18650,we maybe can't be implemented on T20, but maybe other flashlight series".

Another alternative is AW's 14670 Protected 1100mAh Battery. It fits with no problems.






Fits with ample room.


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## half-watt (Aug 15, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> Oilight has said they may not be able to do a 18650 tube, quote "About the 18650,we maybe can't be implemented on T20, but maybe other flashlight series".
> 
> Another alternative is AW's 17670 Protected 1500mAh Battery. It fits with no problems.
> 
> ...





the 17670 only fits in the T20's with the new larger diameter battery tube.

many of the T20's already sold (like mine) will not accept 17670's as well as many RCR's - some fit; some don't.

retrofit tubes are supposedly available from Olight. haven't seen mine yet.


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## ernsanada (Aug 15, 2007)

half-watt said:


> the 17670 only fits in the T20's with the new larger diameter battery tube.
> 
> many of the T20's already sold (like mine) will not accept 17670's as well as many RCR's - some fit; some don't.
> 
> retrofit tubes are supposedly available from Olight. haven't seen mine yet.




Have you tried a 17670 in your light?

My light has a lot of room. I don't think my light has the newer larger diameter battery tube. I cant fit any of my AW Blue cased Protected RCR123's in the T20's battery tube.


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## half-watt (Aug 15, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> Have you tried a 17670 in your light?




yes. AW 17670 and an unprotected Ultrafire, and also several types of RCR's. didn't fit easily. could force some cells and was able to remove some cells, but wouldn't do it again as they would have suffered damage, no doubt. some wouldn't seem to fit at all.

mine was shipped to me early on by Tina right from China (i may have been the first one in the USofA to receive one). mine is apparently a very early one.

i've posted my experience in detail in another Thread. i do really like the light however and had some good comments there about it.


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## ernsanada (Aug 15, 2007)

half-watt said:


> the 17670 only fits in the T20's with the new larger diameter battery tube.
> 
> many of the T20's already sold (like mine) will not accept 17670's as well as many RCR's - some fit; some don't.
> 
> retrofit tubes are supposedly available from Olight. haven't seen mine yet.




Sorry!

Actually I made an error in the battery designation. It's AW's 14670 Protected Battery that fit, not the 17670 that I stated in my post. 

AW's 14670

My post corected.


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## half-watt (Aug 16, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> Sorry!
> 
> Actually I made an error in the battery designation. It's AW's 14670 Protected Battery that fit, not the 17670 that I stated in my post.
> 
> ...





good to know. hadn't considered using 14670's. 

how is the burntime cp. to 2xCR123A and 2xRCR123A?


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## fudo (Aug 16, 2007)

Wonderful review


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## ernsanada (Aug 17, 2007)

Battery Junction has the Olight T20 in stock .

Battery Junction T20


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## MattK (Aug 17, 2007)

Awesome job Ernie!

Great pictures as always - you really have a gift.


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## Chao (Aug 18, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> Sorry!
> 
> Actually I made an error in the battery designation. It's AW's 14670 Protected Battery that fit, not the 17670 that I stated in my post.



When use 14670, does T20 dimmer? Thanks for this review, many nice pics as usual.


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## ernsanada (Aug 18, 2007)

Chao said:


> When use 14670, does T20 dimmer? Thanks for this review, many nice pics as usual.



It's hard to tell. 

I should be able to know once I get my light meter.


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## BobbyRS (Aug 19, 2007)

Great review.... again! I love sitting down reading (and looking) at your write-ups of these lights. You really do prove time and time again to be a valuable asset to the CPF community.

Any chance you have a P3D and a P3D relbel100 to do a shootout between them and the T20?


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## BobbyRS (Aug 19, 2007)

half-watt said:


> i'll report back with an updated "fit-list" in about a week or so after i get the new RCR-tube from Matt.


 
Looking forward to the list!


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## ernsanada (Aug 19, 2007)

BobbyRS said:


> Great review.... again! I love sitting down reading (and looking) at your write-ups of these lights. You really do prove time and time again to be a valuable asset to the CPF community.
> 
> Any chance you have a P3D and a P3D relbel100 to do a shootout between them and the T20?



Soon. Once the shipment arrives at the Fenix Store.


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## half-watt (Aug 20, 2007)

BobbyRS said:


> Looking forward to the list!




Matt has probably received the new barrels/tubes fr/Tina at Olight since he reported having received more T20's from her.

i'm hoping my replacement tube in with them. if so, i'll place an order fr/BattJunc and Matt will just place my tube in with my order (can't expect him to ship the tube for free - he's doing Tina and i enough of a favor just acting as the "middle man" to facilitate gettin' the tube to me - he's a great guy).

hopefully, late this week (i only live 30-40min fr/Matt) i can have a new, larger ID barrel/tube in my hands for "fit" testing.

i'll Post again here, after i do some "fit" testing.


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## woodrow (Aug 22, 2007)

ersanada:
Thanks again for another great review. This looks like a great edc light. Not too expensive either. Thanks for the great photo's. Will have to pick one up on Fri.

brad


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## half-watt (Aug 23, 2007)

*Battery fit testing in newer T20 battery tube*

A few minutes ago, received new larger ID (inside diameter) battery tube/barrel for the Olight T20 sent to me from MattK/BatteryJunction (many thanks Matt for acting as the middle man between Olight and myself; thank you to Tina Chow at Olight for sending me the newer tube).

I tried multiple cells of each type. Unless otherwise noted, all cells of the same type tested fit similarly.

Here are the results of some "fit" testing:


*THE GOOD*

3.0V RCR123A regulated cells:

Tenergy 1000mAh 3.0V = fit fine in both head and tail ends and slid all of the way through the barrel/tube with some small, very reasonable amount of friction.

Tenergy 3.0V LiFeP04 = fit fine in both head and tail ends and slid all of the way through the battery tube with some small, very reasonable amount of friction.

AW 3.0V LiFeP04 = fit fine in both head and tail ends and slid all of the way through the battery tube with some small, reasonable amount of friction. Silver label remained on cells for this testing. No problem with silver label on cells; no need to remove label.



3.7V 16340/RCR123A unregulated cells:

Delkin 16340/RCR123A unregulated 3.7v cells = fit fine in both head and tail ends and slid all of the way through the battery tube with some small, very reasonable amount of friction.


BatteryStation 16340/RCR123A unregulated 3.7v cells = fit fine in both head and tail ends and slid all of the way through the battery tube with some small, very reasonable amount of friction.


Ultrafire blue Unprotected 16340/RCR123A unprotected unregulated 3.7v cells = fit with plenty of room to spare - space all around (if they were magically positioned concentrically within the tube's longitudinal axis).


AW 16340/RCR123A unregulated 3.7v cells = fit fine in both head and tail ends and slid all of the way through the battery tube with some reasonable amount of friction. Silver label still on and only slightly more friction than other cells, but NO sense of possible damage to cells as fit was not too tight, IMO.


17670 cells:

Ultrafire unprotected 17670 cells = fit SNUGLY, but not too snugly into the head end, but NOT the tail end of the battery tube. i personally would feel 'ok', fit wise, about using them in the T20. This fact leads me to the the "ugly" - see below.


*THE BAD*

AW 17670 = one cell was far too snug to easily fit into the head or the tail end of the T20 tube. i had to force it in until it contacted the silver label and then the label started getting "scrunched" and peeled back as i continued just a bit more to force it in - just to see what would happen. didn't have much trouble grasping the cell (65%-70% of the cell was still outside of the tube) and pulling it out of the tube. No way i would really want to use this cell and subject the cell to this kind of stress and punishment inserting and removing it as i fear that the cell may be damaged (at the very least a portion of the protection circuitry might get damaged).



*THE UGLY*

AW 17670 = another cell was too, too snug to fit in the tail end of the tube (just like two unprotected Ultrafire cells). no way it would go in. wasn't even near the silver label yet. this was just trying to start it into the tail end of the tube. However, this cell could VERY SNUGLY be FORCED into the head opening. So, the tube's ID is not precisely uniform (hence "the ugly"), but perhaps within the realm of machining tolerances - the tail end at the tight end of the tolerance, and the head end just a tad larger, but NOT at the upper end of the machining tolerance range). Fitting/forcing this cell into the head end was NOT a silver label issue. Even with the label off, i felt that damage might be done to the that part of the protection circuitry/"wiring, conductor, or trace" running up the side of the cell from the negative end of the cell. It was really a way too tight fit for me to want to attempt using a cell like this. I hope that i didn't do any damage to this cell putting it part way in and then taking it out.


These are the only brands and types of cells that I own (besides various Mfr's primary CR123A cells) which are appropriate for powering the Olight T20.

So, it seems that 16mm cells work fine, but 17mm may or may not work.

I don't own any vernier calipers, so i didn't measure the ID of the original and the new tube. Perhaps i'll take them into work with me and go to the Metrology Lab and measure them. If i do, i'll post the measurements that i obtain.




EDIT:

the new tube helps a lot as one of the most popular 16340/RCR123A cells does now fit. the AW cell does fit. that is a very great improvement, IMO. good job. it would be nice to get the 17670 cell to fit, but one step at a time is fine too.

IMO, the T20 is really a very fine light. In some ways better than a Fenix P3D-CE.

My preference is not for twisty's, instead preferring a reverse clickie for selecting output levels. However, there is a case to be made for accessing ALL of the output levels (including Turbo) using just one control (the head) as in the T20, versus having to use two controls (head and tail cap) to select all of the Fenix P3D-CE levels. The beam pattern from the combo SMO+OP reflector in the T20 is a real winner, IMO.

If one happens to be a fan of twisty's, then the T20 is a sure winner as it has more output levels and longer burn times than a Fenix P1D-CE (not really an apples-to-apples comparison, but the closest Fenix twisty that can be compared to the T20; P3D-CE vs. T20 is really a more proper comparision).

even though, at this time, 17mm cells are not a good fit in my particular tube (maybe they fit in other T20 tubes), i'm still very glad to have purchased the T20 and think that it is a fine light. For a first offering from a company, this light is much, much better than might be expected. Olight is to be commended for their T20 light.


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## half-watt (Aug 29, 2007)

Performed some unskilled "surgery"/Roto-Rooting on the original T20 tube that came with the light.

Using a drill and a toothed boring/reaming bit (rough only; haven't finished the inside of the tube yet with a fine grinding stone), removed some material from the inside of the tube. Took ~30min of effort.

Ultrafire unprotected 17670 cells fit fine now & even drop right through the tube with a slight shake. AW protected 17670 fits until the silver label enters the barrel a bit and then require more force than i willing to attempt for fear of damaging the cell to insert any further, but they are very close to fitting now. Will continue "re-sizing" the ID of the battery barrel/tube later to make AW protected 17670 fit also. Tube appears to be too thin to make 18mm cells fit - i'm guessing that i'll perforate the wall of the tube attempting to do so. [open to comments from others on this point; i don't mind sacrificing a tube in the interest of research, but i fear too much mat'l will need to be removed and even if successful in getting 18650's to fit, the tube won't function as an effective heat sink any longer; any thoughts on this point anyone?] First, need to determine if light will adequately dissipate heat with the material that's removed thus far or will the LED suffer from too much heat. So, will just use the light for a few weeks or so to see how it continues to perform with 17670 cells. Light will heat up quicker now and perhaps any thermal related current foldback protection (if the T20 has any???) will activate sooner.

Don't own calipers so haven't bothered to compare tube's OD at its smallest diameter with an 18mm cell. Could just use some string or paper strip to get a close approximation - perhaps i'll do that in just a bit.

Failed to weigh tube before, so no point in weighing now since can't determine how much material was removed by the grinding/reaming process.


One more point, i learned that by positioning the head of the light (which is responsible for switching light output modes) just right, one-handed output level change is possible.

With the head positioned just right (really don't know yet how critical head position truly is as i haven't experimented much with this aspect yet), after turning the T20 on using the tailcap clicky switch, i can hold the barrel with my last three fingers and gripping the head with my thumb and index finger give the head quick slight "pulls" towards the barrel/tail of the light and release. Each pull changes the light output level in precisely the exact same manner as the intended twisty operation.

This new method of changing light output levels is both faster and easier (since it's one-handed) than using the twisty head (though the twisty method is still an option). This fact alone has raised my affection for the T20 markedly (i'm not a fan of twisty's - though, IMO, the T20's implementation of all output level change from a single control is to be commended, twisty or not). One-handed operation coupled with 17670 cell acceptance has now greatly elevated the status of this light IMO and i will undoubtedly be using it a lot more than i currently have.


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## phosphor (Aug 29, 2007)

> With the head positioned just right (really don't know yet how critical head position truly is as i haven't experimented much with this aspect yet), after turning the T20 on using the tailcap clicky switch, i can hold the barrel with my last three fingers and gripping the head with my thumb and index finger give the head quick slight "pulls" towards the barrel/tail of the light and release. Each pull changes the light output level in precisely the exact same manner as the intended twisty operation.
> 
> This new method of changing light output levels is both faster and easier (since it's one-handed) than using the twisty head (though the twisty method is still an option). This fact alone has raised my affection for the T20 markedly (i'm not a fan of twisty's - though, IMO, the T20's implementation of all output level change from a single control is to be commended, twisty or not). One-handed operation coupled with 17670 cell acceptance has now greatly elevated the status of this light IMO and i will undoubtedly be using it a lot more than i currently have.


:thumbsup::thumbsup: Thanks for the tip !!

- regards


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## ernsanada (Aug 30, 2007)

BobbyRS said:


> Great review.... again! I love sitting down reading (and looking) at your write-ups of these lights. You really do prove time and time again to be a valuable asset to the CPF community.
> 
> Any chance you have a P3D and a P3D relbel100 to do a shootout between them and the T20?





In these beam shots the Fenix P3D Premium 100 Rebel is using AW's Protected RCR123's. The AW's Protected RCR123's fit snug. The batteries were fully charged. The head got warm during these beam shots.

The Olight T20 is using Panasonic CR123's. The batteries have been previously used for beam shots in this review.

The Fenix P3D Premium 100 Rebel is using a Lumilids Rebel.

The Olight is using a Cree 7090 XR-E, 3W.

Left, Olight T20. Right, Fenix P3D Premium 100 Rebel







Left, Olight T20. Right, Fenix P3D Premium 100 Rebel






Fenix P3D Premium 100 Rebel @ 85"






Olight T20 @ 85"






Fenix P3D Premium 100 Rebel @ 85" Stepped down exposure.






Olight T20 @ 85" Stepped down exposure.






Left, Fenix P3D Premium 100 Rebel. Right, Olight T20 @ 85"






Left, Fenix P3D Premium 100 Rebel. Right, Olight T20 @ 85" Stepped down exposure.


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## BobbyRS (Aug 31, 2007)

half-watt: Thanks for your time and effort in testing and creating that battery list!

ernsanada: Thanks for the low comparison. I am really getting spoiled to the beam quality and tint of the Rebels. The amount of usable (and extremely nice tint) light that comes out of them is spectacular. It seems as though the brightness has been spread out more through out the beam instead of just the center. I am beginning to look at many Cree beam shots and really notice the ugly beam patterns, artifacts, and non-white tints.


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## BobbyRS (Aug 31, 2007)

ernsanada: I have another request, if you don't mind. If you have a L0D-CE around, I was wondering if you would be able to compare the highs and lows with a L0D-CE running a 10440 cell. I know it may sound a little wierd, but the L0D-CE is the only light I have right now that I can really compare it to.


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## ernsanada (Aug 31, 2007)

The Olight T20 is using Panasonic CR123's. The batteries have been previously used for beam shots in this review.

The Fenix LOD CE is using freshly charged AW Unprotected 10440.

Beam shots taken at full brightness.

Left, Olight T20. Right, Fenix LOD CE






Left, Olight T20. Right, Fenix LOD CE






Left, Olight T20. Right, Fenix LOD CE @ 71"






Left, Olight T20. Right, Fenix LOD CE @ 71" Stepped down exposure.






I measured with my light meter at full brightness.

Olight T20 @ 1 Meter, 2710 lux

Fenix LOD CE @ 1 Meter, 720 lux


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## BobbyRS (Aug 31, 2007)

Wow, I'm speechless (not just with your comparison but with your response too). Thanks for the quick action! 

I feel more comfortable giving up my L0D-CE now. It appears there are much brighter options now. Now if only a L0D RB100 were easily available....

Thanks again. You're awsome!



ernsanada said:


> The Olight T20 is using Panasonic CR123's. The batteries have been previously used for beam shots in this review.
> 
> The Fenix LOD CE is using freshly charged AW Unprotected 10440.
> 
> ...


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## phosphor (Aug 31, 2007)

I just received my Olight in the mail minutes ago. I'm impressed with this neat little light. The form factor is just right ! The IU took all of 20 seconds to confirm and "memorize". I like that the strobe and SOS functions are are "out of the way" but quickly available if needed. The beam has a bit of a dough-nut up very close on the wall......and at the center there a noticeable brown spot at about 15 feet. (Not really brown...more of a "discoloration"....a variation from the rest of the VERY cool white beam). This is my first Cree, and I suspect from my reading on the forums that the dough-nut and brown spot are just the nature of the Cree....and in any event when it becomes dark and the light is needed as a tool, I am certain neither of those anomalies in the beam pattern with register in my consciousness. I'm just not that uptight about those kind of things.

- best regards to all


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## gromit (Aug 31, 2007)

any outdoor beam shots?


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## phosphor (Aug 31, 2007)

I have been "playing" with my new T20 since it has been dark. I REALLY like this little light a lot. The build quality is impressive......the execution is flawless, and the UI is a "piece of cake". This is my first digital light.....I have been slow to get "on board", and I find I like the digital aspects quite well. I don't necessarily want to immediately go out and buy a dozen more with these features, but I am happy I chose the Olight T20. 

Attention : the lowest level is NOT all that low.....so for those looking for an ultra-low setting perhaps this light is not for them. However, I have "old eyes" and welcome the extra lumens even on the lowest level; it suits me just fine.

I don't have the necessary tools to take "outside" beam shots for you....I wish I could. I think you would be impressed with the lights capabilities. The beam has admirable throw.......but I would not want anyone to think that there isn't sufficient spill to give ample light to facilitate negotiating one's immediate surroundings.

It's a nice little light. I said that already...didn't I ?

- regards to all


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## pilou (Sep 14, 2007)

While the hot spot is more sharply defined than that of the P3D Rebel, it seems like the side spill is overall brighter. Is that true?

I am not sure I understand how you change levels. Do you press the switch halfway and then rotate the head? Is that it?

Thanks for all the great beam shots.


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## ernsanada (Sep 14, 2007)

pilou said:


> While the hot spot is more sharply defined than that of the P3D Rebel, it seems like the side spill is overall brighter. Is that true?
> 
> I am not sure I understand how you change levels. Do you press the switch halfway and then rotate the head? Is that it?
> 
> Thanks for all the great beam shots.



Spill on the T20 is a little brighter.

Rotate the bezel about about 1/4" and then turn back to original position. You do this to get to the 5 levels of light. It's very easy to use.

Press the talicap soft to change from high, strobe then SOS.


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## brightnorm (Sep 16, 2007)

jsr said:


> Very slim...looks like a great alternative to the P3D. The head reminds me of a Pelican. Too bad the switch isn't a forward clicky.


The T15 would be a closer match to the P3D in terms of size and shape, although the P3D is much brighter and has impressive runtime.
http://www.olightworld.com/proi/cn/product_detail.asp?productid=425

Brightnorm


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## half-watt (Sep 16, 2007)

brightnorm said:


> The T15 would be a closer match to the P3D in terms of size and shape, although the P3D is much brighter and has impressive runtime.




IMO, the cp. b/t T20 and P3D is natural because of the similar power source, viz. both use 2xCR123A cells for power. Whereas, the T15 uses a single AA cell for power (not even a single CR123A). This would account for the observation as to the distinct difference in brightness, especially and runtimes b/t the T15 and P3D.

Hence, if one accepts that power source might perform a better criteria for an "apples-to-apples" comparison, then T15 to a L1D-CE might be a better comparison. I wouldn't even make a T15 to P1D-CE cp. just b/c they're both "twistys" (i'm assuming here that the T15 is a twisty like the T20 is).

If power source is not accepted as a better standard of criteria, then why not also compare L2D-CE to T20, or P1D-CE to T15? They are closer in overall shape than a uniformly cylindrical shape. I'm not saying that this is an "apples-to-apples" comparison. Just exploring logical consequences of a premise, that's all. 

There are even 1xCR123A lights that are uniformly cylindrical and shaped roughly the same size as a P3D (Inova makes at least one), but they are no where near comparable, even ignoring differences in LED technology.

all i'm saying is that perhaps shape (including length - except, of course, as a matter of power source dictating such) ought NOT to be the primary comparison criteria if an appeal to brightness and burntimes (in an intelligent design, both are more of a function of LED technology and powersource) is then made to prefer one light over another.

of course, if everything else is similar, then something like head diameter (often, not always, a function of reflector depth), hence size or shape, might then be used as this should affect beam output pattern. but, again, it's not precisely apple-2-apples or even apples-2-oranges, but more like oranges-2-tangerines (close or similar, but not exact).

however, since i'm not the sharpest tool in the shed (or the brightest bulb in the bunch for that matter), perhaps i have misunderstood the intent of the comments to which i am responding. if so, fault all mine.

any thoughts anyone?


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## Pokerstud (Sep 16, 2007)

I would think a comparison would be more like this:

T20 VS. P3D ( 2 x cr123 )

T15 VS. L1D-CE ( 1 x AA )

T10 VS. P2D-CE ( 1 x cr123 )


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## half-watt (Sep 16, 2007)

Pokerstud said:


> I would think a cpmparison would be more like this:
> 
> T20 VS. P3D ( 2 x cr123 )
> 
> ...





agreed, but i think you have a simple "typo" (as did i - now fixed):

T15 vs. L1D-CE (1 x AA) is what i'm guessing you meant.


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## brightnorm (Sep 16, 2007)

My error. Based on its size I assumed the T15 took two cr123s. In that case, in terms of brightness, size, weight and runtime the P3D is still one of the most interesting lights around, though I'm sure the T20 is also an excellent light.

Brightnorm


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## MattK (Sep 16, 2007)

The Olights do run slightly larger than the Fenix's but they are also not time limited for their top output mode. Also, as many have remarked, quality and actual output are higher - while prices are notably lower.


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## SEMIJim (Sep 17, 2007)

MattK said:


> The Olights do run slightly larger than the Fenix's but they are also not time limited for their top output mode. Also, as many have remarked, quality and actual output are higher - while prices are notably lower.


Good enough for me. Order placed: One for me and one for my friend's birthday present!  (Along with some CR123's.)

Been lookin' for an excuse to buy something from you, Matt, ever since I joined CPF. Looks like I finally found one 

Jim


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## Pokerstud (Sep 17, 2007)

half-watt said:


> agreed, but i think you have a simple "typo" (as did i - now fixed):
> 
> T15 vs. L1D-CE (1 x AA) is what i'm guessing you meant.




Thx Half-watt for catching my error and correcting it.


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## MattK (Sep 17, 2007)

SEMIJim said:


> Been lookin' for an excuse to buy something from you, Matt, ever since I joined CPF. Looks like I finally found one
> Jim



Thanks!


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## ernsanada (Dec 13, 2007)

I just received my order of 4 AW Protected RCR 123's.







All 4 AW Protected RCR's fit with no problems in the Olight T20.







-----------------------------------------------------------------------

I also took lux readings of the Olight T20. These are the lux readings I got. I am using a Meterman LM631 Light Meter measured at 1 meter. I waited 2 minutes before taking the readings. I am using AW's Protected RCR123's which were fully charged.







Olight T20 Panasonic CR123's - 2710 lux @ 1 meter

Olight T20 AW's Protected RCR123's - 2500 lux @ 1 meter


------------------------------------------------------------------

I have 2 AW's Protected 17670 but they do not fit. The newer version T20 and T20 Q5 should fit AW's Protected 17670.


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## ernsanada (Dec 13, 2007)

BTW all modes work with AW's RCR123's.


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## ernsanada (Dec 15, 2007)

I just received the Olight T20 Q5 from the Fenix Store

Shipping was very fast 3 days to Socal.

Packaging is the same as the original Olight T20 I received from Battery Junction T20

You can also the purchase the Olight T20 Q5 from Battery Junction T20 Q5

Fit is excellent.

The Type III Hard Anodize is excellent. No flaws noted.






The only difference is the box description, T20 - Q5 Parameter











No visible markings on outside light saying Q5.





















Left. Olight T20 Q5. Right, Olight T20






Left. Olight T20 Q5. Right, Olight T20






Cree 7090 XR-E Q5 WC Led








-----------------------------------------------------------------------

I also took lux readings of the Olight T20 and Olight T20 Q5. These are the lux readings I got. I am using a Meterman LM631 Light Meter measured at 1 meter. I waited 2 minutes before taking the readings. I am using AW's Protected RCR123's which were fully charged.







Olight T20 Q5 AW's Protected RCR123's - 2790 lux @ 1 meter

Olight T20 AW's Protected RCR123's - 2500 lux @ 1 meter


---------------------------------------------------------------------

Olight T20 Q5 AW's Protected RCR123's @ 88"






Olight T20 AW's Protected RCR123's @ 88"






Olight T20 Q5 AW's Protected RCR123's @ 88" Stepped down exposure






Olight T20 AW's Protected RCR123's @ 88" Stepped down exposure






Left, Olight T20 Q5 AW's Protected RCR123's. Right, Olight T20 AW's Protected RCR123's @ 88"






Left, Olight T20 Q5 AW's Protected RCR123's. Right, Olight T20 AW's Protected RCR123's @ 88" Stepped down exposure







------------------------------------------------------------------

All modes work with AW's Protected RCR123's in the Olight T20 Q5.

AW's Protected 17670 do not fit in the Olight T20 Q5.

I really like both these Olights. 

The UI is very well done IMO.


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## ernsanada (Dec 15, 2007)

This is a rear picture of the Lens Bezel Assembly.

This is the Cree Q5 module. It looks it screwed in from this side.


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## ernsanada (Dec 15, 2007)

All lights using 2 AWs Protected RCR123's.

Olight T20 @ 32'






Olight T20 Q5 @ 32'






Fenix T1 Q5 @ 32'






Fenix P3D Rebel @32'


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## nanotech17 (Dec 16, 2007)

nice T20,
I like mine as well.
Nice photos as always 
by the way do you get that 8% rebate as well on the Olight?


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## ernsanada (Dec 16, 2007)

nanotech17 said:


> nice T20,
> I like mine as well.
> Nice photos as always
> by the way do you get that 8% rebate as well on the Olight?



Yes CPF8 for 8%.


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## xevious (Jan 26, 2008)

Ernsanada, thanks again for all of your detailed info on the Olight T20 review! I'm glad to see AW RCR123A cells fit in the Q5 version. Do you think Battery Station RCR123A cells will work also?


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## ernsanada (Jan 26, 2008)

Sorry I don't have any Battery Station RCR123's.


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## divine (Jan 26, 2008)

Very nice job Ernsanada.

Some people gripe about the Olight UI because it goes from high to low. I edc a T15 and have a T20Q5 that I don't edc. You know, from a practical standpoint... Having the light on low, which is the most common setting I have it on, it leaves me one button press away from strobe, and one twist away from high. I think this UI is very practical.

That and the hybrid reflector makes a very nice beam, IMO, a very smooth spot and a good spill.

Something about the T15 is it's very similar in size to a P3D, about a quarter inch shorter, and maybe an eighth inch thinner diameter. (It looks like the Olight reflector is about a quarter inch deeper than the Fenix, which would explain the throw.) I put a P3D in my front pocket one day and it's noticeably larger.

Anyways, thanks, it was a good read.


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## xevious (Jan 27, 2008)

Since I've gotten the chance to use my T20 for a while, I have to say that the brightness levels aren't differentiated enough. About another 10-20% in difference would be better, with the lowest setting at 1 lumen. I find that I use either the highest or lowest, rarely anything in between. The spot is a little on the small side. Otherwise, it's a great light for the price. It's nice having 2 controls, similar to how the SF U2 operates. The other thing I like is how the click switch can be lightly pressed to cycle through the 3 modes.


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## CandleFranky (Jan 27, 2008)

divine said:


> Some people gripe about the Olight UI because it goes from high to low.


This is no big problem, because Olight remembers the last mode when switched off. You just have to go on low mode, before switching off, then it starts on low mode. :huh:


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