# My new PM 1127VF lathe!



## mototraxtech (Jan 17, 2010)

Ok to start things off my name is Randy Gentry. I have just joined your great little sub forum as you seem to have the best information on setting up and modifying PM lathes.

Some time early this week I should be taking delivery of my new PM 1127VF lathe from of course Matt over at quality machine tools. He has been very pleasant to work with and has answered a bunch of questions I had without any problems. And this is my first lathe so I had a few.

The reason I choose this lathe is that it is as big of a lathe as I don't have room for and the price and feature were also right. This lathe is actually going in my house as I don't have a shop. And will be used for mostly aluminum and a little mild steel for prototypes that I like to build.

Now I plan an keeping everyone updated with lots of pictures of the setup and what not.


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## mototraxtech (Jan 17, 2010)

Ok so to start this off I will post some pictures of the tooling I have gotten so far.







This pic shows my two turning tools which are hertel 1/2" shank ccmt and dcmt holders. Also there is a hertel(not value) drill bit for the reamer and to pre bore holes for the boring bars.






This is my 7/8" MSC value reamer for a bunch of bushing press fit I will need to make on my project. Also a value run-out tool to check things out on the new lathe and I am sure many other uses as well. My little insert holding box that we be much fuller in a few days probably. The nice value 29 piece set of cobalt bits. And the value 3/4" 82 degree counter sink that will be used for sinking bolt heads.





There is a 5 piece set of hertel center drill in the corner from 1 to 5 and a few hertel taps that I will need to use on my project as well.

I have a few more tools on the way and will post them as I get them. Any recommendation on tools would be great. Mostly will be making shafts and spacer out of aluminum and a little steel.

I used my 25% new customer discount to get all of this so it wasn't to bad. Any comments or questions are appreciated. Now for that lathe.


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## wquiles (Jan 18, 2010)

Very cool, and congrats on the new toys  

Looking forward to more pictures 

Will


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## mototraxtech (Jan 18, 2010)

Alright the shipping company called me and they will be here tomorrow. Not sure how its going to go but will will see. Hoping to get it from the truck into my pickup. From there I can figure out something else to move it the rest of the way.:twothumbs


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## StrikerDown (Jan 18, 2010)

Congrats
Don't forget to charge the camera batteries!


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## mototraxtech (Jan 19, 2010)

Yay, I got the lathe and in perfect shape. Not a ding in the crate at all. And of course I got some pics.






Here he comes






A little closer





To the front door!





Getting the goods aka my new toy.:twothumbs





Trigger is happy too!

A couple pics of the packaging which was in perfect shape. There was not a ding on it. This made me very happy and relieved.









The top boxes are the stands and the bottom is the machine!





It was covered in plastic which is a good thing.





It looks much better is person. I am totally happy with the cosmetic quality. It does need a lot of cleanup but thats ok.





Here is the stand





And in the corner you can see all the goods it came with. I will opend them all up later and show you what all came.

All in all I have very happy with it so far and cant wait to set it up. Now if only I can figure out how to get it in my house. Its a little heavy.

More to come later after I get it in the house so I can start cleaning it up.


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## wquiles (Jan 19, 2010)

Awesome!


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## mototraxtech (Jan 19, 2010)

The greatest thing happened. I was outside trying to figure out how I was going to move it and my neighbors were both home at the same time(never happens) and come over and offered to help move it. It was still a pain in the back but we got it with the rest of the goods on the second try. I have been cleaning it up and it appears there are a few scuffs in the chip guard in the back but it does come with some touch up paint. I'm not even sure if its worth fixing though as its not to bad. Now its time to get it ready to cut. Now what exactly should I do. I have a machinist level coming to level it. I am making some feet for it also so I can level it. The lathe wont be put on the stand until I make the feet. In the other post something was said about wiring. I thought they came ready to plug in. What do I need to wire. 

Thanks and more updates to come!:twothumbs


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## StrikerDown (Jan 19, 2010)

Congratulations, That is a fine looking piece of hardware!

Wiring? Did it come with a cord and a plug on the end ready to plug into the wall outlet?

If it did then you are all set. 

If it is like the bigger machines or can be wired to run on 220V it may need to have a cord attached to the correct taps for the intended operating voltage.


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## mototraxtech (Jan 19, 2010)

No it has a cord and its all wired up. I'm not sure what else needs to be wired up. Or maybe he was referencing fixing bad wiring. I am going to go threw the tools tonight and start cleaning and organizing them.

I have a set of boring bars coming from micro 100 and a bunch of inserts coming from quality machine tools. I also got a nice surprise to find me new computer got hear today to. 

It comes with windows 7 but I was thinking of going back to xp. Any comments on windows 7 and CAD programs like Solid works and Pro/Engineering.

I am hoping to have the lathe setup this weekend or early next week to the point of using it. Also anybody have an idea a what kind of speed control it has.

Look forward to more pics soon.:twothumbs


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## mototraxtech (Jan 19, 2010)

Ok I could not resist and plugged it in and watched it turn. I didn't turn it up all the why just about half way and wow. Perfect and it is so quite. Its about or quieter than a cordless drill.


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## StrikerDown (Jan 20, 2010)

I think that the wiring up most are talking about with new machines will be hooking up the larger ones that don't come with a standard plug like the small ones running on 110V. 

Other things that get hooked up might be DRO's work lights, back up lights and license plate lights... it's late I'm going to bed!

Check your owners manual for a break in procedure... if it has one you might want to follow it befor too many high speed runs!


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## mototraxtech (Jan 20, 2010)

I was reading the manual and it says to remove all of the rust stopping grease with a solvent and then lightly oil everything with a 20w machine oil. That stuff is in everything and in the internals of them cross slides and stuff. Should I take apart the cross slide and clean it then re oil everything. Its fine as I am very mechanically incline but just wondering if that's the right thing to do. It appears as though they put the angling slide on top backwards anyways as the numbers are facing the wall and you would have to be behind it to see it to adjust it.

I ordered a gallon of 20w way oil from mcmaster as well as a synthetic lithium grease and some leveling mounts. Any idea were a guy could get way oil local as it sucks to pay the high shipping.

Later I have to get to classes.:sigh:


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## gadget_lover (Jan 20, 2010)

Yes, it's common to take apart the sliding things to get all the protective coating off.

Fine looking machine there!

Dan


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## StrikerDown (Jan 20, 2010)

mototraxtech said:


> Any idea were a guy could get way oil local as it sucks to pay the high shipping.
> 
> Later I have to get to classes.:sigh:



Let your fingers do the walking! 

Look for a local oil/lubricant supplier. 

If it is a large outfit they may stock what you are looking for, if they are real large you may have to buy case quantity.

I needed a ctg of grease with specific ingredients for one of my machines and picked up a small case (ctgs IIRC) for the cost of two Ctgs from the manufacturer. Of course the OEM's name was not on the package but it had a major Mfg name on it.


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## darkzero (Jan 20, 2010)

mototraxtech said:


> Yay, I got the lathe and in perfect shape.


 
Awesome! Looks like a great machine. Can't wait to see it setup & in action. :twothumbs

Pics of the change gear assy when you're settled in please.


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## mototraxtech (Jan 21, 2010)

darkzero said:


> Awesome! Looks like a great machine. Can't wait to see it setup & in action. :twothumbs
> 
> Pics of the change gear assy when you're settled in please.


 

Thanks I think to will be. 

I tore down the carriage assem today and tomorrow I am going to clean it all and put it back together and get everything nice and dialed in as far as the slides go(some of them were a bit tight when I got it).

I was looking in the carrage and it is REALLY dirty. There are alot of iron shavings in there so I am going to clean it out really good and refill it with fresh oil. 

If I have time I will clean out the main gearbox as well as I asume that its not much better. Other than that all is well.

It will more than likely be next weekend before I get it UP and RUNNING as far as cutting anything as there is alot of stuff still floating around the country and wont be here by friday.

Ill post the pics of the gear change and what I found in the carriage tomorrow. Thankfully no classes tomorrow so I can MOSTLY just work on the lathe.:twothumbs


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## mototraxtech (Jan 30, 2010)

Just an update to you guys a few of my major items like oil and the material for the base got messed up in shipping and wont be here until next week.

I might be able to get it done next weekend but Ill have to see as I have school and I have to drive a long ways to used a drill press which is needed for the base.


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## precisionworks (Jan 31, 2010)

> Any comments on windows 7


Windows 7 rocks ... I have the Microsoft Virtual Machine installed to run XP for one old program that may never be updated to W7. Other than that, W7 fixes most of the issues with XP and adds a lot of nice features.


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## mototraxtech (Feb 11, 2010)

Alright everyone I have a huge update and lots of pictures. I have the lathe setup on the stand in its final location and most of my tooling is here. Plus a did a few updates to the lathe. I start from the beginning and go from there.

First I had to find a way to get the get the lathe on the stand. I designed a CHEAP lift out of 2 x 4s and threaded rod. I ended up using 4 - 2 x 4s at $1.99 a piece and a 6 foot piece of 1/2 - 13 threaded rod at $10. After tax and all it ended up being about $25 for everything including hardware.

Here you can see my stand which took about an hour to make.





This is looking down by the chuck. I cut a short piece of 2 x 4 and drilled a hole in it. Then slid it under the lathe. It fit perfectly on the flats on the bottom of the lathe.





This is the bottom of that 2 x 4. It has a lock nut and washer sandwiched between the top and bottom so that it does not spin or pull through. The nut is not on the above picture as I learned that is would spin without one after I took that pic.





This is the nut that you turn to lift it. I used a coupler nut so that I didn't have to worry about stripping the threads after I got in a couple feet in the air. Its also has a washer to prevent pull though. It got very hot as I turned it but a little WD-40 and all was good.





So about half on hour later here is the progress. I just hooked a cheater bar to the end of the wrench and literally walked around it to lift it. (It took around 400 times of walking around it to lift it all the way)





I lifted it a little higher than the stand so that it was easier to get the stand underneath it. This took about an hour to get it this high. I also had to cut off the threaded rod as it got close to the ceiling.





Here it is on the stand and mostly bolted down.





And finally it is against the wall in its final location. Note my tool box just barely fit under it.









Now in the pics you can see that is has leveling feet so I will explain them.
First I took two pieces of 1"x3" 6061 aluminum bar cut to 22" long. I then drill holes in the center to match the holes in the stand. I then got four 3/8 - 16 swivel mount feet from mcmaster and then drilled and taped the ends of the aluminum bar to fit the feet. Now I can just turn the nut and adjust the lathe. The reason I used aluminum over steel was cost was the same. Weight was lower(aka easier to move) and aluminum is actually more rigid that steel.






So guys tell me what you think!
I will post later with other updates on tooling and what I updated on the lathe. Also will show some pics of the gear change and electronics for those of you who are interested.


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## TranquillityBase (Feb 11, 2010)

Wow! *SWEET* lifting fixture!


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## wquiles (Feb 11, 2010)

TranquillityBase said:


> Wow! *SWEET* lifting fixture!


+1

That was my first though as well - quite genius :thumbsup:


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## darkzero (Feb 11, 2010)

TranquillityBase said:


> Wow! *SWEET* lifting fixture!


 
Agreed!

:twothumbs

Now go make some chips!


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## ICUDoc (Feb 11, 2010)

Smartest and weirdest lifting apparatus I ever saw! How did you move the lathe/stand back to the wall?


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## Anglepoise (Feb 11, 2010)

I like the way you think.
Good job.


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## mototraxtech (Feb 11, 2010)

ICUDoc said:


> Smartest and weirdest lifting apparatus I ever saw! How did you move the lathe/stand back to the wall?



I actually just picked up one end at a time and moved it back. Its not as hard as it seems. For example moving a 600 lbs snowmobile in the shop can be done with one person and just moving each side a little at a time. Of course when you pull something in your back you think twice about it but I always lift with my legs and if its too much you can usually tell.


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## precisionworks (Feb 11, 2010)

Very similar to the support tube under each end of my South Bend 10-K. Much more rigid than the stand alone, and a lot easier & faster to level the bed.

Do you have a master precision level? Imports are around $75 or so and do a decent job.


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## mototraxtech (Feb 11, 2010)

precisionworks said:


> Very similar to the support tube under each end of my South Bend 10-K. Much more rigid than the stand alone, and a lot easier & faster to level the bed.
> 
> Do you have a master precision level? Imports are around $75 or so and do a decent job.




Yes I have one of those imports. I'm not quite sure have to level thought. I basically made both ways level to the same degree and then put the level on so that it rested on both ways and then level it that way to. Also I did both of these measurement below the chuck and near the tail stock.

But once again I don't know if that's right.

So if you have a link to a place on leveling info and how to test you lathe that would be great.


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## mototraxtech (Feb 11, 2010)

I used the lathe a couple times and stripped the clamp bolts that hold the angle mount on. So I went and looked for new bolts and the dang things are $13 a peice minimum and I needed 4 more for something else I am making for the lathe. So I happened by see some t-slot nuts that fit my t-slots and they were only $3 a piece. So in an effort to same money and come up with a better system to clamp down the work holder I decided to use the t-slot nuts. I also had to machine down the t-nuts a little to make them fit which let me used the 4 jaw chuck. The new system is much better as the surface contact is increased and I have double the threads. Which means I can get them tight and not have to worry about stripping the threads.

Here is the old setup.





Here is the new one.


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## StrikerDown (Feb 11, 2010)

Necessity is the Mother... of invention that is! Nice job!:twothumbs

Leveling the lathe along the length of the bed is not too critical, but it should be close. The important areas to level is across the ways (from the operator side to the back of the lathe) at the head and the tail, make them both level so the bed does not twist from end to end. The carriage should run true and level from end to end.

Now about those nice clean white walls! Watch out for the liquids on the rotating parts! 

Also on that hardware that you need to loosen and tighten often, try a little anti seize compound it might help. After seeing Chris Mac, gall and Seize the head clamp hardware on his new RF-31 mill I started using the anti seize on mine and so far so good. The compound rest on the lathe got a dose also. Chinese hardware isn't the best, if you relpace it get good grade 8 hardware replacements.

Can't wait to see pics of chips!


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## 65535 (Feb 11, 2010)

mototraxtech said:


> I used the lathe a couple times and stripped the clamp bolts that hold the angle mount on. So I went and looked for new bolts and the dang things are $13 a peice minimum and I needed 4 more for something else I am making for the lathe. So I happened by see some t-slot nuts that fit my t-slots and they were only $3 a piece. So in an effort to same money and come up with a better system to clamp down the work holder I decided to use the t-slot nuts. I also had to machine down the t-nuts a little to make them fit which let me used the 4 jaw chuck. The new system is much better as the surface contact is increased and I have double the threads. Which means I can get them tight and not have to worry about stripping the threads.
> 
> Here is the old setup.
> 
> ...




Dont' forget you can always weld the threaded rod to the nut to make a sturdy bolt.


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## mototraxtech (Feb 11, 2010)

65535 said:


> Dont' forget you can always weld the threaded rod to the nut to make a sturdy bolt.


 
I'm not sure what you mean. The end of the t-slot bolt where the nut is sitting in the pic stripped. There are only 4 threads on that nut which is why it stripped when I torqued it down.


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## mototraxtech (Feb 11, 2010)

Here is a few pics of the electronics in case anybody is interested.










And here is the motor.


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## darkzero (Feb 11, 2010)

mototraxtech said:


> I used the lathe a couple times and stripped the clamp bolts that hold the angle mount on.


 


StrikerDown said:


> Chinese hardware isn't the best, if you relpace it get good grade 8 hardware replacements.


 
Nice job Randy, I like your solution! Great improvement, it's happened to many of us.

On my 8x14 the compound studs stripped like the second time I cranked down on them. Instead of replacing them with studs again I got some 1/2" head grade 8 bolts, tapped the heads for the metric threads, then cut the heads off. I used them as the nuts in the compound & used hex head bolts. Using hex head bolts is more convienent for me as I can use a T-handle hex driver rather than using a wrench. I'm going to do the same on my 12X36.


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## GMLRS (Feb 12, 2010)

I think a small torque wrench would be helpful, until you are familiar with the machines limits. Not many people properly torque to specs. Its a very good practice. Easier on the hands and fingers too.


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## mototraxtech (Feb 12, 2010)

GMLRS said:


> I think a small torque wrench would be helpful, until you are familiar with the machines limits. Not many people properly torque to specs. Its a very good practice. Easier on the hands and fingers too.



That's exactly what my bike shop mechanics tell me every time I bring my dirt bike down to get a thread fixed. Of course I have had the bike for three years and still strip threads.


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## Anglepoise (Feb 12, 2010)

mototraxtech said:


> Also I did both of these measurement below the chuck and near the tail stock.
> 
> But once again I don't know if that's right.
> .



Much has been written on leveling lathes. As StrikerDown mentioned a few posts back, its not so much 'level' that is important, but adjusting for no twist in the bed.

The following method might help.

First get the lathe approximately 'Level' along its length. ( Adjust left pair or right pair of leveling feet evenly). Not critical.

Then


1: Move the carriage near the head stock. Place the level 90° to the ways and rest it on a nice flat ground area on your cross slide. Do not move or re position the level for the duration.

2: Center the bubble by adjusting the feet ( front pair or back pair evenly).
Get close as you can.

3: Now slowly crank the carriage towards the tailstock and watch the bubble move.

4:With the carriage near the tailstock, now adjust one of the feet at the tailstock end of the lathe so that the bubble starts to move to the center. Move the carriage back and forth between adjustments and get it as close as you can.

Important.

Now go back to #1 and re do all steps following , this time with the bubble exactly centered between its two ground lines, before starting #3.

When the carriage can be traversed from headstock end to tailstock end with NO bubble movement, you are bang on, NO twist and level enough in both axis.



( Laying a level directly on the ways sometimes produces inaccuracies depending on how the 'V' way was ground. That flat area on top of the 'V'
is often ground at a different time in production and with a different machine. The method above compensates for this condition as it simulates the all important relationship between cutter tool traversing the work)


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## StrikerDown (Feb 12, 2010)

I used 123 blocks on the flats of the ways then follow up with the level on the carriage, thinking the bed would be perfectly level even if the carriage surface isn't paralell to it. But since it isn't critical that things be perfectly "level" but rather not twisted... Doh, I like your way mo betta!


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## gadget_lover (Feb 12, 2010)

And, of course, the final test is to turn a test rod between centers. Mount a test rod, turn a small section near the chuck and another near the tailstock without moving the compound or cross-slide in or out. Both spots should be the same diameter.

Of course, this assumes you have centered your tailstock first. 

Daniel


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## mototraxtech (Feb 12, 2010)

gadget_lover said:


> And, of course, the final test is to turn a test rod between centers. Mount a test rod, turn a small section near the chuck and another near the tailstock without moving the compound or cross-slide in or out. Both spots should be the same diameter.
> 
> Of course, this assumes you have centered your tailstock first.
> 
> Daniel




I turned down a piece of 1 inch aluminum today and it had a .003 small dia on the tailstock end compared to the chuck end. How do you center the tailstock. Also the piece I turned down was 12 inches long.


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## StrikerDown (Feb 12, 2010)

mototraxtech said:


> I turned down a piece of 1 inch aluminum today and it had a .003 small dia on the tailstock end compared to the chuck end. How do you center the tailstock. Also the piece I turned down was 12 inches long.



Your tail stock should move away from the cutter .0015 to center the tail stock.

You can also make a test bar by turning a small section on the tail stock end of your 12" bar (between centers). 
Using this bar with a dial indicator on the compound, measure the tail end, remove the bar and end for end it putting it back between centers, hold the point of the dial indicator to prevent damage and run the carriage to the head end of the bar (machined spot) and let the point down. if the tail stock is centered the dial should return to the exact same point. If offset it will indicate how much the tail needs to move. 

Most tail stocks have a set screw on both sides used to center or offset the tail, Depending on your tail, you may need to loosen the hold down then loosen the setscrew on one side, tightening the other setscrew will pull the tail in that direction. You need to play with it a little to get the feel for how much to loosen and tighten to shift the tail. This is how you turn long tapers between centers, by offsetting the tail.

If you have an accurate means of holding a shank in the head stock, like a collet closer or chuck, you can also use a co-ax indicator to center the tail stock very easily.

Edit: 
When you make the above test bar keep it so you ca use it again to center or offset the tail. You can also use it to check the vertical centering of the tail by putting the dial indicator on the top or bottom of the bar. Of course there isn't an adjustment on any tail stock I have seen to adjust this so you would have to grind the bottom of the tail to lower or shim to raise it. Not something most ever even check since it is hard to change but something to keep in mind if you are ever checking out a possible used lathe to purchase... bring your test bar!

You can rough center the tail with a dead center in it and the head stock bring them close to each other and adjust the set screws so the points are close, then get it real accurate using the test bar.


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## mototraxtech (Feb 13, 2010)

OK, an update on the lathe. I leveled it using strikers method and I think I did it right. I ended up being able to move the carriage from one end to the other without the bubble moving very much at all(barely see able with the eye). The problem I have found is that the lathe is on linoleum and in a house and so it will probably never stay level until I get it in a shop with a concrete floor. But for what I will be using it for right now that's not a big deal. I also centered the tail stock and both ends of a 14 inch bar are within 0.0003". This is plenty accurate enough for me for the current projects. I tried to do it the way striker said but it gave me the same result as just taking a long finishing cut on the bar and then measuring both ends and going from there. And the test cut way seemed easier.


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## Atlascycle (Feb 13, 2010)

you should probably get some plates to put under the feet of the lathe to reduce the point pressure of the feet, that should help to keep it level.

Jason


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## gadget_lover (Feb 13, 2010)

Atlascycle said:


> you should probably get some plates to put under the feet of the lathe to reduce the point pressure of the feet, that should help to keep it level.
> 
> Jason



Even if the floor shifts, It should shift uniformly over a distance that short. The relationship between the axis of the head and the carriage travel should remain stable. The fact that it is LEVEL is not as important as the fact that the important surfaces are on the same plane(s). 


The level is just using gravity as a convenient reference point.

That's my take on it. 

Daniel


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## mototraxtech (Feb 14, 2010)

Hey I was wondering if you can use a shop vac to clean up the smaller metal shavings or if it would just ruin it. I can clean up all of the larger strings pretty easily and put them in a bucket but the small ones under the lathe I cant reach. And of course compress air is out as its in my house. So do any of you use a shop vac or have other ideas on how to clean up the smaller chips.


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## StrikerDown (Feb 14, 2010)

Shop vac should be okay as long as it has a filter in it. I use one all the time even on the long pieces! I'm lazy but they make it to the tank without getting stuck in the hose. Then I bag em up and put them in the trash, hope that is okay! You never know these days!


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## mototraxtech (Feb 14, 2010)

StrikerDown said:


> Shop vac should be okay as long as it has a filter in it. I use one all the time even on the long pieces! I'm lazy but they make it to the tank without getting stuck in the hose. Then I bag em up and put them in the trash, hope that is okay! You never know these days!




Thanks, my fiancee works at Good Will and says they come in all the time so I will see if I can pick one up cheaply. Also I was wondering if it is worth recycling the shavings or not. Seems like alot of good material to just throw away.


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## darkzero (Feb 14, 2010)

I also use a shop vac (mini) to clean up the chips. Never had an issue with chips getting stuck in the hose until I got the larger lathe & making bigger chips/swarf. Now I need a larger/standard size shop vac. 

Not sure if it's worth collecting & recycling for hobbyist machinist? I checked the local prices of scrap yards it it doesn't seem worth the time to collect such large quantities, seperating the different materials, & driving down to recycle them. :shrug:

I do the same thing as Ray, bag it when my bucket is full, & toss them in the trash.


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## smflorkey (Feb 15, 2010)

mototraxtech said:


> ...I have had the bike for three years and still strip threads.


Reminds me of a friend in high school who used to say he knew only two degrees of tightness on any threaded fastener -- loose or broken.  He proceeded to illustrate this tendency as he replaced several studs in the engine block he was rebuilding in our car port. I think my brother eventually convinced him to use a torque wrench. That engine eventually ran well after he stopped stripping threads.


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## precisionworks (Feb 16, 2010)

> if you have a link to a place on leveling info and how to test you lathe



http://www.neme-s.org/Shaper Books/South Bend/SB Lubrication Chart.pdf

See page 3


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## precisionworks (Feb 16, 2010)

> do any of you use a shop vac


Every time the lathe or mill runs 

If you have enough chips to fill a small (5 yard) dumpster, you should save & sell them ... $150/2000#. Unless your machine runs an automatic chip conveyor, and has a 50hp spindle, toss the chips in the garbage.


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## mototraxtech (Feb 16, 2010)

precisionworks said:


> Every time the lathe or mill runs
> 
> If you have enough chips to fill a small (5 yard) dumpster, you should save & sell them ... $150/2000#. Unless your machine runs an automatic chip conveyor, and has a 50hp spindle, toss the chips in the garbage.




Hmmm, a somewhat local place around here states they give 55 cents a pound for 6061 aluminum. With your numbers that would be $1100/2000# right. Granted I still dont know if it would be worth it. But the numbers I came up with are much differant than yours. Ill call the LOCAL place later today are get their price and see.


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## Atlascycle (Feb 16, 2010)

It looks like Barry was quoting steel scrap pricing......


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## precisionworks (Feb 16, 2010)

> Barry was quoting steel scrap pricing


Correct 

Aluminum scrap also sells here for $.55 per pound. My scrapper requires that it be delivered clean & dry or they downgrade the pricing. 

We recently scrapped out 20 tons of iron, 3 tons of stainless ($.50 per pound) and 2 tons of aluminum. For that quantity, the scrapper provided a crew, roll off dumpster, skid steer loader, etc. Nice to have all that gone.


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## mototraxtech (Feb 16, 2010)

precisionworks said:


> Correct
> 
> Aluminum scrap also sells here for $.55 per pound. My scrapper requires that it be delivered clean & dry or they downgrade the pricing.
> 
> We recently scrapped out 20 tons of iron, 3 tons of stainless ($.50 per pound) and 2 tons of aluminum. For that quantity, the scrapper provided a crew, roll off dumpster, skid steer loader, etc. Nice to have all that gone.




What exactly do you do if you don't mind to have all that scrap.


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## mototraxtech (Feb 16, 2010)

Ok guys I have a new update/add-on for the lathe. I had it build at a local machine shop for under $75 completely done which I though was a steal. It basically turns my lathe into a drill press for when I need one.


Doesn't that look nice on there.






I had some braces put in there so the bed doesn't flex.





Check out these welds





The reason I had this made is because I really cant afford a nice drill press and I dont have the room for one either and so this will work great. It also has the added bonus of power drilling to make nice consistent holes.


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## KC2IXE (Feb 17, 2010)

Made by you not quite local machine shop - YOU are the local machine shop now...


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## mototraxtech (Feb 17, 2010)

KC2IXE said:


> Made by you not quite local machine shop - YOU are the local machine shop now...



Well ya, I didn't have a welder or a cnc torch to cut the parts out but some day I will have it all!:devil:


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## vancroft (Mar 12, 2010)

I am very curious how you're getting along with this machine now that you've had it for a while  
I'm new on this forum and signed on especially for this machine which has been mentioned in a few threads, I am considering this machine with a PM25V mill from Machine tools online (Quality machine tools)? :huh: 
I've talked to Matt a few times but would love to hear from users.

I know a few here changed their minds to the bigger (better ) 1236 but mine has to go through a window in the basement and I'm worried about the weight for a move like that :shakehead 
Tell us what you've been doing with it please. :thumbsup:

Regards, Ed


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## vancroft (Mar 12, 2010)

*Should I, PM1127?*

I have tried to respond to a few threads but it did never post? So I'll try it this way. 
I am looking to upgrade equipment from a 3in1 (don't ask :shakehead) to possibly a PM1127VF or a PM1236. and a small mill maybe PM25V
I know Mototrax has one and stopped writing about it, someone here got the 1127V and a few others almost got one and changed their mind for the 1236. 

Mototrax please tell me what you think about your machine now and any one else who has experience with this machine.
For those that changed their minds, what made you pick this one in the first place :wave: Since I think I know why you picked the bigger one 
Love these smilies 

I have been lurking here for a while and although I do no flashlights I'm learning lots.
Thanks, Regards, Ed


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## DM51 (Mar 13, 2010)

*Re: Should I, PM1127?*

I'm merging this with the thread you have referred to.


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## mototraxtech (Mar 30, 2010)

*Re: Should I, PM1127?*



vancroft said:


> I have tried to respond to a few threads but it did never post? So I'll try it this way.
> I am looking to upgrade equipment from a 3in1 (don't ask :shakehead) to possibly a PM1127VF or a PM1236. and a small mill maybe PM25V
> I know Mototrax has one and stopped writing about it, someone here got the 1127V and a few others almost got one and changed their mind for the 1236.
> 
> ...




Sorry I haven't been on in awhile. I have been really busy with school, work, and I am trying to start a business. As far as the lathe goes I haven't been able to use it for about three weeks as I stripped out the threads that hold the quick change post on. It was tapped directly into the cross slide with about 5 threads is all into cast iron. So I called up qualitymachinetools and they said to send it back and the would fix it free. So after all was said and done I have I just got it back and put it on tonight. The fix is great though and adds about 3 threads more of steel as well if I strip it out again it will be easier to fix.

As far as the machine goes I have made a nice amount of chips and it has been great. SOOOO quiet even running it in my house. After I leveled it and then aligned the tail stock it can do some good and fairly accurate cuts. Don't know what you want to cut but I mostly cut aluminum and a little stainless steal and it has been a champ. I also cut some large plastic drivers and it did a good job as well.

I'm not sure what else to tell you other than it has been great but I haven't been able to use it in awhile. Defiantly worth in and and completely happy with it. Matt has been great and helped me out a lot and to me is the best part.

If there is anything in specific you want to know just ask. Now that it is working again I will be browsing the forums a little more.


The only problem so far is that it is starting to leak oil. It is all on the chip pan so no mess or anything I just don't like things to leak. For the most part I think better seals and new sealant around the oil glass will fix them. Not a big deal as its only a few drops a day its just annoying.



WOW I didn't realize its been over a month since I last post. I really must be busy!


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## mototraxtech (Mar 30, 2010)

I finally got my cut off blades so when I use them I will tell you how they work. Other than that not much going on with it here.

Oh and did get a shop vac and must say that it is the only way to clean up chips. It makes it a couple minute job as opposed to a half hour.

I might post some pics of the new bushing they put in the cross slide if someone wants me too. Its not very noticeable but you will get an idea of what they did to it. As for they guy who asked about the change gear pics they now have them on the website so you can see them there if you haven't already found them.


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## mototraxtech (Mar 30, 2010)

vancroft said:


> Tell us what you've been doing with it please. :thumbsup:




To be honest not a lot as it has been down for awhile and I am currently redo my CAD for my project to make it more consistent and didn't want to have to remake any parts that might change. I do how a lot of aluminum though for when I finish the CAD.

Oh and I did make some nice radiator shroud spacers for my KTM. I couldn't get the darn things and they cost $5 a piece and I needed two. They are also only about the size of a dime with a high and low spot. So I made some myself that were much higher quality and a little beefier.

Some other things include:

Narrowing steel sprocket to fit 520 chain
Narrowing nylon sprocket to fit 520 chain
Facing a 8 inch PPD drive sprocket
A bunch of round spacings
Ive also drilled some holes with the drill press attachment


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## vancroft (Apr 5, 2010)

Thank you Randy for the update.
I'm anxciously waiting for the lathe and the mill I ordered from Matt and it is nice to hear that you're happy with it.
Do you know why the QCTP threads stripped? 
maybe something I should look at before I start using it.
I am on the "road" right now but when I get home I'll come up with some more questions. 

Regards, Ed :wave:


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## mototraxtech (Apr 6, 2010)

vancroft said:


> Thank you Randy for the update.
> I'm anxciously waiting for the lathe and the mill I ordered from Matt and it is nice to hear that you're happy with it.
> Do you know why the QCTP threads stripped?
> maybe something I should look at before I start using it.
> ...




Yes, they stripped because there were only 5 or so threads into the cross slide. I torqued it to much(which I have a habit of) and pulled them out quite cleanly. He said the new one have fixed this so maybe yours in one of them. I actually have got to use it a quite a bit in the last week and have been able to product some aluminum parts with a thousands tolerance. My caliper only goes to 0.000 and all of those number were what I wanted. Most of all its a lot of fun and cut a lot of chips.

Let me know about that mill when you get it set up. I am interested in that as well. Which size did you get?


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## vancroft (Apr 9, 2010)

Just got back from my trip, I had just sold my 3in1 before I left, boy does the shop look empty still 4/6 weeks before I expect the new machines.
The mill I picked is the PM25mv, should be nice, I had a quick glance in Holland at both the lathe and the mill from a dutch importer, they look pretty good I'm exited.
I'll let you know when they're here.
Ed


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## vancroft (May 2, 2010)

Randy,
I'm still waiting for the machines and can't help but doing more research while waiting and I have met a bunch of guys online in the same predicament as me, so from one thing came another and I started a new Yahoo group for "Blue Machines" meaning the Precission Mathews, Weiss and Optimum/Quantum line.

So far there are 8 members and I'm looking through all the forums I can find to invite anyone who even mentioned a PM or Weiss machine, there's more then I would have thought.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bluemachining/

We'd love for you to visit and share your experience and of coarse anyone who is interested in these machines is welcome.

Regards, Ed


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## mototraxtech (May 4, 2010)

I joined your group but dont know if Ill use it much as I dont really use yahoo but Ill check in from time to time. Not much time to work with the lathe as finals are coming up and I just bought a new dirtbike so Im a little broke meaning the new Mitu calipers are going to have to wait for a few months and most of the things I need to make I need a micrometer as the digital caliper just isnt working out.

The good news is after being on these forums I have learned that ebay can be your friend and just bought a 2010 ktm 450sxf off there for $6100 and it retails for $8000 if you can find one. Also the bike only had an hour on it so it isnt hardly broke in yet. Very excited about the new purchase. I know its not a tool but it is a machines so I think its in the right forum. :naughty:


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## vancroft (May 7, 2010)

mototraxtech said:


> I joined your group but dont know if Ill use it much as I dont really use yahoo but Ill check in from time to time. Not much time to work with the lathe as finals are coming up and I just bought a new dirtbike so Im a little broke meaning the new Mitu calipers are going to have to wait for a few months and most of the things I need to make I need a micrometer as the digital caliper just isnt working out.
> 
> The good news is after being on these forums I have learned that ebay can be your friend and just bought a 2010 ktm 450sxf off there for $6100 and it retails for $8000 if you can find one. Also the bike only had an hour on it so it isnt hardly broke in yet. Very excited about the new purchase. I know its not a tool but it is a machines so I think its in the right forum. :naughty:



As long as you got your priorities right :thumbsup: Sounds like you got a great deal on the bike and at least if you break something you can now make your own parts (well after you save up for that caliper ) 

Hope you do well on the exams and see you around this or that forum 

regards, Ed


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