# Fenix TK35 (XM-L, 2x18650/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED COMPARISONS



## selfbuilt (Apr 10, 2011)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *







By popular request, I have chosen to review the Fenix TK35 – a compact, high output XM-L-based light. Let’s see how it compares to the competition ... 

*Manufacturer's Specifications:*

LED: Cree XM-L 
Uses four 3V CR123A batteries (Lithium) or two 18650 rechargeable batteries (Li-ion) 
Six levels of output:
Turbo - 820 lumens, 1 hour 33 minutes
High - 346 lumens, 5 hours 6 minutes
Mid - 109 lumens, 16 hours
Low - 12 lumens, 170 hours
Strobe - 820 lumens
SOS - 109 lumens
Distance - 333m
Intensity @ 1m - 27739cd
Impact Resistance - 1.2m
Waterproof Rating - IPX-8, underwater 2m
Dimensions: Length: 164mm, Diameter: 43.64mm, Head Diameter: 51.5mm, Weight: 256g (excluding batteries)
Digitally-regulated output, maintains constant brightness
Reverse polarity protection, to prevent damage from improper battery installation
Dual-button switch in tailcap for convenient operation
Made of durable aircraft-grade aluminum
Premium Type-3 hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish
Toughened ultra-clear glass lens with anti-reflective coating
Included Accessories: lanyard, holster, o-ring
Estimated MSRP ~$110.









Packaging is typical for Fenix (i.e. cardboard box with molded plastic insert). Inside you will find the light, manual, warranty card, wrist lanyard, and belt holster.









From left to right: AW Protected 18650, TK35, Sunwayman M40C, Eagletac M3C4 XM-L, Fenix TK45, Lumintop TD15-X.

All dimensions given with no batteries installed:

*TK35*: Weight 256.1g, Length 162mm, Width (bezel): 48.6mm, Max Wdith 52.0mm
*M40C*: Weight: 258.5g, Length 156mm, Width (bezel) 57.1mm, 
*M3C4 XM-L*: Weight: 348.0g, Length: 164mm, Width: 61mm (bezel)
*M3C4 SST-50 SMO-Deep*: Weight: 354.2g, Length: 165mm, Width: 61mm (bezel)
*M3C4 SST-50 OP*: Weight: 334.7g, Length: 158mm, Width: 61mm (bezel)

As you can see, the TK35 is one of the most compact offerings in this side-by-side 2x18650 class of lights.














The body plan of the TK35 is very streamlined, and quite comfortable to hold and handle. :thumbsup:

Black anodizing (type III = HA) is matte finish, without blemishes on my sample. Lettering is clear and sharp, but not overly bright.

The light lacks knurling as such, but there are a series of tiny ridges along both sides of the battery handle (similar to the concentric ring ridges on the TK45). While this helps somewhat with grip, I still find the TK35 slipperier than other lights in this class.

Screw threads are square-cut and anodized, to allow for head lock-out. :thumbsup:

Although it looks like it should, the light cannot easily tailstand, as the on/off switch bulges slightly on my sample (even when on).










The most unique aspect to the light is the battery compartment. Made entirely of plastic, it slides fully into the aluminum handle. Unlike the TK45, the springs used for positive and negative contact are on found on the head and not the carrier. The carrier chambers hold all my protected 18650 cells snugly, even the newer high capacity ones. There is a raised button at the positive terminal in each chamber, so flat-top cells work fine.

Probably the most distinctive thing about the barrier carrier is that it contains two different types of switches – a forward clicky for on/off activation, and a secondary electronic switch for mode changing, as described below.














The switch control mechanism is interesting. At the base of the body handle, you will see two buttons. The smaller of these is basically just a small plastic rod with a rubber top that serves as the mode changing button. When assembled, it makes contact with the actual electronic switch on the battery tube. There is a definite click when changing modes, but the feel is quite different from a traditional clicky. 

The larger button is connected to a more traditional on/off clicky switch. Feel is a little stiffer than typical, but is otherwise familiar.

There is a definite rattle to light, even when fully assembled (likely due to the mode changing plastic rod). And you have to pay attention to how you insert the battery carrier – it only fits one way, due to the differing switch types. 









The TK35 uses the Cree XM-L emitter, with a relatively deep and smooth reflector. There seems to be some very mild texturing applied to the surface, which slightly dulls the finish (likely to helps smooth the beam). 

Which brings me to the white-wall beamshots.  All lights are on 2xAW protected 18650, about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 





























































First off, this sample has one of the most greenish tints I’ve ever seen. :green: The pics above are all done with automatic white balance and are slightly desaturated, to minimize tint differences. In real life, it is more green than it appears above.

Beam pattern is actually very good – the light has a reasonable amount of throw, and a nice transition from spot to spill. 
_
*UPDATE June 6, 2011:* I have just posted a new 100-yard round-up beamshot review for 2011, showcasing all my current "thrower" lights. Below is an animated GIF showing some relevant comparisons for the TK35. Please see that round-up review for additional pics of other lights, taken under the same conditions.





_

*User Interface*

Turn on/off by the larger forward clicky switch (press-on for momentary, click for locked on). 

Mode changing is controlled by the smaller secondary electronic switch. Click and release to advance through output modes, which proceed in sequence from Lo > Med > Hi > Turbo, in repeating sequence. The light has mode memory, and retains the last level set when you turn the light off and back on. 

Note that you cannot set the output level while the light is off. The electronic switch only works when the light is powered on by the clicky switch first. As such, there is no standby current on the TK35.

The “hidden” strobe and SOS modes are accessed by clicking and holding the electronic switch for more than 1 sec. The light will now move between a slow SOS and a fast high intensity strobe when you click and release the electronic switch. To return to the constant out modes, hold the electronic switch for more than 1 sec again, or simply turn off/on the light. 

The blinking modes also have a memory, and the light will return the last mode used when you re-enter this state – but the light always turns on in the memorize constant output mode. Thus, there is no danger of accidentally strobing yourself  (but conversely, you cannot access strobe without first turning on the light in a constant mode).

The light has an interesting safety feature – after exactly 25 mins of continuous runtime on Turbo, it drops down to the Hi level for the rest of the time it is left on. Turning off/on restores the Turbo mode (at least for the next 25 mins ).

*PWM/Strobe*

There is no sign of pulse width modulation (PWM) on the Lo/Med/Hi modes that I can detect, leading me to conclude this light is current-controlled like almost all other Fenix offerings. 






Strobe is an oscillating strobe, switching between 6.7 Hz and 15.9 Hz at ~1.8 sec intervals on my sample.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have recently devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lighbox values to Lumens thread for more info.

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

*Effective November 2010, I have revised my summary tables to match with the current ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.sliderule.ca/FL1.htm for a description of the terms used in these tables.*






Output on max is very comparable to my other recent XM-L based lights, like the Eagletac M3C4, Thrunite Catapult V3 and Lumintop TD15-X. As expected, peak throw/beam distance is less than the larger M3C4 and Catapult V3 lights (with their larger and deeper reflectors), but is greater than the smaller TD15-X. Throw is basically in the traditional range of most of the larger SST-50-based lights.

Lo output is reasonable for this class – not as low as some earlier Fenix lights, but in keeping with most of the recent XM-L lights.

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*





















I have only done 2x18650 runtimes, but the light can also handle 4xCR123A. As you can see, output/runtime efficiency is certainly in keeping with other current-controlled lights with XM-L emitters – and perhaps even a touch better on my TK35 sample. 

You will also note the interesting runtime pattern on Turbo. After exactly 25 mins, the light drops to Hi for the rest of the run (i.e. the first TK35 trace on my Max 18650 graph). This is not a thermal sensor, but a timed drop-down feature. To allow you to better compare to other lights that remain constant, I flashed the TK35 off-on every 20 mins in the second run, so you can see what happens if you keep it going (i.e. labelled as "*restarts*" in the first graph legend).

*Potential Issues*

As always, I have some concerns over long-term stability with any all-plastic battery carrier. Although the TK35 carrier seems better than their previous offerings in the high-output class, the dual switch control area feels relatively cheap. In particular, the simple plastic plunger that connects to electronic switch does not inspire a lot of confidence (it also rattles at all times).

The heavily green tint on my sample suggests that Fenix is using non-premium cool white tints for this line. This would be in keeping with the lower than typical price.

Light lacks any real knurling, and can be more slippery than most in this class.

Holster and wrist lanyard are fairly basic, but at least they are both provided (which is more than some manufacturers).

*Preliminary Observations*

In many ways, the TK35 is something of a Goldilocks model. :laughing: Build-wise, you could argue that most of the other high-output lights are either too long, too thick, too heavy, or too light. The TK35 feels just about right in the hand – nice and compact, and well-balanced. 

Same goes for the beam pattern. No, it is not a huge thrower for the XM-L class – but it throws as well as the much larger SST-50-based lights, and better than all the earlier MC-E ones. No, it doesn’t have a huge spillbeam width, like lights with massively wide heads. Instead, it has a very _well balanced_ beam profile that suits most general uses. :twothumbs

I think the dual control interface is generally well implemented. You can easily use the light in over-hand tactical grip without having to re-position (i.e. buttons are easy to differentiate). I would have liked to have been able to set the output level before activation, but that would have required a major redesign (and likely necessitated a standby current drain in this dual switch setup).

Of course, one area where you can always expect Fenix to excel is in overall output/runtime efficiency. No surprises here – the TK35 does as well (and perhaps slightly better) in overall efficiency as any other current-controlled light in the XM-L class. :thumbsup: The 25 min drop-down feature on Turbo is interesting (and likely a good safety feature), but you can always circumvent it if you need to by turning off/on again. And max output is consistent with all the recent XM-L lights I’ve tested.

Another distinctive feature of the TK35 is the price.  I don’t normally comment on this in my reviews, but it is remarkably low considering everything you are getting here (i.e. ergonomics, performance, and the reassurance of an established brand name). 

So, with all that going for it, sounds like slam-dunk right? Well, not necessarily. That low cost brings a few less desirable aspects with it. As mentioned above, I don’t like all-plastic battery carriers (although this one is better than most). But I do find the switching control area has a rather cheap feel, and I worry about its long-term stability. 

The other cost issue is tint. There are never any guarantees here – but some makers do pay extra to insure specific “premium” cool white tint bins are used. In my experience, Fenix doesn’t typically do this (although to be fair, they are also a much higher volume manufacturer, and therefore have to go with what’s available). I bring this up only because my TK35 sample has the most greenish tint that I’ve ever seen in all my flashlight testing. :green: What this suggests to me is that you can therefore expect a very wide range of possible tints on the TK35 – caveat emptor.

And although I like the body design (and the nice touches like anodized square threads, etc.), I would also like to see some actual knurling on the light to improve grip. Probably one of the best builds I’ve seen in this size light is the Sunwayman M40C – an even more compact side-by-side 2x18650 design, dual interface with magnetic control ring, all-metal carrier, etc. But it uses the older MC-E emitter and as is still ~50% more expensive. 

At the end of the day, I think the TK35 is a fantastic bargain with a good overall design, good mix of features and outstanding performance. The build is still not quite everything it could be, but it is certainly still quite acceptable - you just need to have realistic expectations for the price. And honestly, I don’t see how you could do much better at this price point for a high-output light, at the current time.

_*UPDATE MAY 13, 2011:* I have just reviewed the JetBeam BC40 - an even less expensive 2x18650-class XM-L light. It has a simpler two-stage output UI, but is something else to consider in the "budget" high-output class._


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## tre (Apr 10, 2011)

A great review, as always. Thanks for reviewing this light. It seems like a nice all around light with the exception of the green tint. Perhaps they will come out with a neutral version in the future.

I was shocked to read that it has the most green tint you have ever seen on any light. I'm certain you have seen more lights than just about anybody so that statement says a lot to me.


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## Bass (Apr 10, 2011)

Another excellent review.

Looks like a good light. I do like the parallel battery configuration - makes for a more compact light.

You have probably covered this elsewhere but why leave the camera on auto WB for your white wall shots? You used to use 5600k - I think? 

I guess so the tint doesn't get in the way - you are looking for beam pattern, hot spot, spill, rings, artefacts etc which is more useful. Tint varies for each LED to a certain degree and 'tint' is subjective. (kind of answered my own question!! LOL). Would there be any benefit to de-saturate (B&W) each shot? I'm sure you have considered all options, I'm just curious! 
Thanks!


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## selfbuilt (Apr 10, 2011)

tre said:


> I was shocked to read that it has the most green tint you have ever seen on any light. I'm certain you have seen more lights than just about anybody so that statement says a lot to me.


In the "old days" when XR-E first went to R2 output bin (mid-late 2008, IIRC), most of the lights were quite green (i.e. a poor WH tint, for XR-Es). I know a similar complaint has been leveled against the XP-G S2 bins, but I haven't seen enough to comment. And again, I've heard that complaint for the XM-L T6. But my TK35 sample has a slightly more pronounced green than any of my early XR-E R2s. That makes it the worse I've seen (although to be fair, it's not that much worse). 

Part of what magnifies the problem is the tint shift that occurs on current-controlled lights (i.e. lower levels are particularly noticeable). But even on max, it's very noticeable on my TK35. I therefore felt it was important to comment, since it suggests greater variability in tint is to be expected on this model.



Bass said:


> You have probably covered this elsewhere but why leave the camera on auto WB for your white wall shots? You used to use 5600k - I think? .. I guess so the tint doesn't get in the way - you are looking for beam pattern, hot spot, spill, rings, artefacts etc which is more useful. Tint varies for each LED to a certain degree and 'tint' is subjective. (kind of answered my own question!! LOL). Would there be any benefit to de-saturate (B&W) each shot? I'm sure you have considered all options, I'm just curious!


Actually, I used to use automatic white balance for a lot of the group light photos, so that the relative tint differences between them weren't unfairly magnified. When I switched to doing individual beamshots, I found this was the best way to keep things focused on beam characteristics, as you point out. If I set it to "sunlight" WB, a lot of the tints just looked horrible.

I slightly desaturate the photos as part of the conversion to post them online (I use an extremely mild one). This is mainly because they go through a at least one extra JPEG compression step, and I don't want artifacts introduced. But it's also so that people don't get too distracted by slight patterns in the beam. In the past, I would sometimes see my pics being reproduced in other posts showing how certain lights had specific tints. :shakehead


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## Rej (Apr 10, 2011)

Ohh... have I waited for this.....thank you Selfbuilt once again, for an incredibly detailed and informative review

however....In my impatience for your review, I went and bought one 2 weeks ago!

Bang on review overall...Love this baby, great 'balance' of beam as you mentioned; which is what I was looking for. Now I have the facts from your review to back it up!

I got lucky, as my local distributor just received a dozen or so lights, and brought the best '3' for me to choose from. (one was REALLY green! and off center beam). he mentioned the 'Tint Lottery' here, which is a shame for Fenix:shakehead [I may 'slightly' notice it only on the lowest level. ]

So as I sat in Starbucks doing 'Floor tile' -> wall shots and corrugated metal 'ceiling bounce' tests.... I came to the conclusion-> what the hell is wrong with me? ( I think the other patrons were concerned with my sanity?)

End of the day, I had what I would consider to be a 'Neutral' output XM-L (NOT green) as confirmed by my nightly dog walks 'side-by-side' with my COOL SC51, KD XM-L (C8) and JB M1X.....FAR better colour rendition and contrast vs 'any of the other lights.'

Great profile and build quality IMO.... for my needs.

Want a massive thrower; go elseware....Want a slightly larger EDC that is BRIGHT, with decent throw, spill & runtimes.... you have it:naughty: Time will tell if it is worthy of the 'TK' designation.

This is why I love CPF.... the selfless effort that you (Selfbuilt) and others go through to bring all this info to others and myself here, so I can buy more lights....in a more informed manner truly amazes me; dam you!:devil:


​


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## brightnorm (Apr 10, 2011)

Selfbuilt,

Thank you for your excellent review of this fine light. I seem to have been lucky in the "LED Lottery" with my TK35. The beam is a beautiful pure white, perhaps slightly on the warm side. As a general purpose beam I wouldn't have minded a little more width at the cost of less throw, possibly resulting in a shorter light (as long as heat-sinking could remain adequate). Your forthcoming outdoor beam shots will be very helpful. IMO the best general purpose XML beam is achieved by the lumintop TD-15X; of course that is a personal choice. 

If I had to carry one relatively compact and lightweight general purpose XML light it would be a tossup between the TK35 and the Lumintop TD-15X. (I haven't tried the Sunwayman).

Brightnorm


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## Bass (Apr 10, 2011)

Thanks for the clarification and explanation on WB settings selfbuilt; makes sense. To be honest, the 'tint' variations between white wall shots on your previous reviews have not been that noticeable - just with this one, some are really green and some are 'white' for the TK35. It ties in with your comments about the green tint and Auto WB has captured it in some exposures and not on others.

It's a shame in a way that the light has a green tint, some may be put off by this. There does seem to be a bit of lottery on the XM-L's. 

I have two XM-L lights (Catapult V2 and Lumintop TD15X) and the Thrunite Catapult has one of the best tints I have seen, really nice. The Lumintop however, is very cool, the spill is purplish - I would estimate >7000K. It's not objectional, just not optimum (for my tastes) and interestingly, opposite to your green sample - quite a variation with the XM-L and shows that you cannot guarantee what you recieve.

Keep up the great work :thumbsup:


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## ergotelis (Apr 10, 2011)

Great review once again selfbuilt, though i am quite sure that your tk35 is underperforming compared to most tk35. At least mine should be over 850 lumen for sure, when comparing to M31,M30,catapult V2 xm-l,lumintop that you have too included to your test.


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## selfbuilt (Apr 10, 2011)

Rej said:


> Bang on review overall...Love this baby, great 'balance' of beam as you mentioned; which is what I was looking for. Now I have the facts from your review to back it up!





brightnorm said:


> As a general purpose beam I wouldn't have minded a little more width at the cost of less throw, possible resulting in a shorter light (as long as heat-sinking could remain adequate). Your forthcoming outdoor beam shots will be very helpful. IMO the best general purpose XML beam is achieved by the lumintop TD-15X; of course that is a personal choice.


I do consider the TK35 beam very well balanced, but of course that is a matter of preference. Another beam I quite like is the Olight M31 - exactly because it has such a wide spill and decent throw. But for an SST-50, that comes at the cost of a much bigger head. 

And yes, I should have to more to say about it once I do the exterior distance beamshots.  Stay tuned ... 



Bass said:


> I have two XM-L lights (Catapult V2 and Lumintop TD15X) and the Thrunite Catapult has one of the best tints I have seen, really nice. The Lumintop however, is very cool, the spill is purplish - I would estimate >7000K. It's not objectional, just not optimum (for my tastes) and interestingly, opposite to your green sample - quite a variation with the XM-L and shows that you cannot guarantee what you recieve.


Exactly, it is usually a question of how much variability occurs in emitter manufacturing (and availability/cost of premium tint bins). I personally much prefer a little green than purple, all things being equal.



ergotelis said:


> Great review once again selfbuilt, though i am quite sure that your tk35 is underperforming compared to most tk35. At least mine should be over 850 lumen for sure, when comparing to M31,M30,catapult V2 xm-l,lumintop that you have too included to your test.


Could be - that's the problem with n=1 experiments. 

I have seen a few commenting that their TK35s were brighter than those other lights, but all my "integrating" devices (i.e. lightbox, ceiling bounce closet, and eyeball) agree that there's not much difference between my samples of various XM-L lights. My Olight M31 is likely something of an over-performer, as it is the only SST-50 light I've seen that matches the XM-L crowd.


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## ergotelis (Apr 11, 2011)

selfbuilt said:


> Could be - that's the problem with n=1 experiments.
> 
> I have seen a few commenting that their TK35s were brighter than those other lights, but all my "integrating" devices (i.e. lightbox, ceiling bounce closet, and eyeball) agree that there's not much difference between my samples of various XM-L lights. My Olight M31 is likely something of an over-performer, as it is the only SST-50 light I've seen that matches the XM-L crowd.



exactly.I don't doubt your results but i think this is a possible case here. Otherwise i should be completely wrong with my test methodology of measuring lumen output. M31 delivers to the led 4,3amp a lot more than most sst50 flashlights.


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## brightnorm (Apr 11, 2011)

I'm surprised there isn't more interest in this thread. The TK35 is a pretty unique and excellent light at a bargain price. 

Brightnorm


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## ergotelis (Apr 11, 2011)

brightnorm said:


> I'm surprised there isn't more interest in this thread. The TK35 is a pretty unique and excellent light at a bargain price.
> 
> Brightnorm


 
Well i think that this review came a bit late(not blaming anyone of course,the opposite in fact) and most people have already bought this flashlight!


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## phonoe (Apr 11, 2011)

Thank you selfbuilt for the great review again. I thought that the peak throw @1m was around 25,xxx lux or so. Anyway, I am glad that it has a well balanced beam profile for most of the uses.


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## samgab (Apr 11, 2011)

Thanks for the excellent review, selfbuilt. I just ordered my new TK35 today, and I'm told it's shipping now. Can't wait to try it out. I am curious about what sort of tint I'll end up with. I got a 4Sevens mini-AA with the XP-G S2 emitter, and it has a quite green tint, and I'm not a fan...


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## candle lamp (Apr 11, 2011)

Great review and thanks for your hard work as usual. Selfbuilt!

I like the neutral & warm tint personally, so hope neutral or warm tint XM-L lights come out soon.


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## selfbuilt (Apr 11, 2011)

brightnorm said:


> I'm surprised there isn't more interest in this thread. The TK35 is a pretty unique and excellent light at a bargain price.





ergotelis said:


> Well i think that this review came a bit late(not blaming anyone of course,the opposite in fact) and most people have already bought this flashlight!


Quite true - I got to this one rather late. But I think there is something off in how the review forum list is reporting page views - both reviews I posted this past weekend are consistently showing posts+1 as the number of views. That seems highly unlikely (i.e. 15 views and 14 posts? I doubt it).



phonoe said:


> Thank you selfbuilt for the great review again. I thought that the peak throw @1m was around 25,xxx lux or so. Anyway, I am glad that it has a well balanced beam profile for most of the uses.


Keep in mind lux is a non-linear scale that decays according to inverse-square law. So the difference between 25,000lux and 20,150lux is really only 10% less (i.e. the difference of the square-roots, or beam distance), not 20%. My measured values are ~15% less than the Fenix specs (27739 lux @1m, 333m). Considering my sample's output level also seems a little below their specs, that is at least consistent.


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## robinhood (Apr 11, 2011)

Thanks for the review!


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## snala (Apr 11, 2011)

My TK35 is more neutral than cool white but in saying that is actually whiter than my TK30 and obviously brighter too. As said above, on the low setting it has a slight green tint but not bad.
Good torch for the price and consistant output.

Ta again Selfbuilt, you are the un-biased benchmark we all look for on here.


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## brted (Apr 11, 2011)

Another great review. I know a lot of people are interested in this light. That square battery box just makes it really ugly to me, but I'm not in the target market anyway. 

Would it be possible to do a group beam shot with a few lights so we can see the green tint?


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## droeun (Apr 12, 2011)

Mine is sort of green at low and medium (so is my TK40) but at high and turbo it's bright white, almost cool/purple tint. I like it. I also like the warm/yellow of my TK40 too, it's very natural and similar to R2/WH.


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## ergotelis (Apr 12, 2011)

The led tint shift is common in these emitters. It might look greenier on the low settings but on high kelvin temp goes up a bit higher.


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## lyklyk616 (Apr 12, 2011)

We have to admit , Fenix really can produce great flashlights ! This is a great example ! Great review !


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## dongkoo (Apr 12, 2011)

Great Reveiw.
Thanks.


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## selfbuilt (Apr 12, 2011)

brted said:


> Would it be possible to do a group beam shot with a few lights so we can see the green tint?


Hmmm, I could try that - we'll see if I can do something that matches what I see. But again, that's no guarantee for what anyone else will get.

In any case, I will be updating with external beamshots when I get the chance to do them. 



ergotelis said:


> The led tint shift is common in these emitters. It might look greenier on the low settings but on high kelvin temp goes up a bit higher.


Yes, that is common - it gets worse with the lower outptus. But in my case, I immediately recognized this light as having one of the greenest tints I've ever seen upon initial activation in Turbo.


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## 03roadking (Apr 12, 2011)

I have been waiting for this review! Looks like a great light to keep around. I think it may be my next purchase!


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## samgab (Apr 13, 2011)

Update: my TK35 turned up, and I'm stoked with it. There is no discernible tint at all, it's a very neutral white - perhaps slightly coolish temp. Yes, there is a very slight rattle from the secondary button actuator, but that's just a design *feature*, as they'd say in IT. And bright...! I got 4 x protected 2600mAh Ultrafire 18650's with it, so they should do the job, 2 in the torch, 2 for backup or in the charger. All in all, win.


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## hunter306 (Apr 14, 2011)

Just picked one up myself and enjoyed reading through the review. Spot On with the observations. 

Wondered if anyone has measured the current draw on Turbo yet?

I ask because I have 4 sets of 18650's, and only 2 of the four sets are capable of handling this light on Turbo mode. The other sets, which are red-label UltraFires with a 3000mah capacity (not verified, and at this point, not believed) cannot drive the turbo mode on the TK35 for more than 2 minutes without protection kicking in.


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## StandardBattery (Apr 18, 2011)

selfbuilt said:


> *[. . .]*
> 
> *Preliminary Observations*
> 
> ...


 

I'm really loving this light for it's well rounded features and price/performance. The above quotes pretty much sum up my feelings.

I've been out of lights for a while so I've not played with anything new for a year or closer to two; except for some nice Zebralights as they keep updating their models.

Just by coincidence the TK35 was mentioned on another forum and it looked so good on paper I had to try it. 

As far as I'm concerned I did pretty well in the tint lottery, the tint is certainly a bit different, especially on low output modes, but mine is not overly green. As a person who has mostly switched to Warm/Neutral emitters in my regular use lights I find my tint quite acceptable. Even though the light has output options, I consider the size and weight still put it in the outdoor ranage and that's where I'll be using it, unless I need to celing bounce during a power outage (man it can light a room).

I had to buy this one before reading the reviews and I'm very glad I did.

Really nice to see Selfbuilt still doing just an amazing Job on reviews of the breaking-edge lights. Great to see a lot of old timers, newcomers, and lots of activity on the forums.

While I don't need a new light or two every month anymore, I still really appreciate those in my collection, maybe more. 

*Thanks for the review!*


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## orbital (Apr 18, 2011)

+

Never owned a Fenix, the *TK35* could change that.

~ I'll go out on a limb and say the side-by-side configuration becomes the go-to format 
for 2X 18650 lights.
Its small enough to be easily portable, also getting valuable runtime {flat runtime on TK35.}
 
thanks selfbuilt,...again


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## droeun (Apr 18, 2011)

Bought one and immediately sold my TK40. Size and output is perfect. Kinda wish it came with an OP reflector instead, but other than that the thing is awesome. I also got lucky with the tint lottery. Kind of warm on low, but not much different than the TK40. Very cool white on high/turbo.


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## recDNA (Apr 18, 2011)

Great review...but it makes me wonder about Fenix ANSI numbers. Your measurement of Eagletac about the same as theirs but Fenix claiming 820 ANSI lumens? Hmmm

Any explanations anybody can think of?


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## srfreddy (Apr 18, 2011)

Bad LED? There's always variation, and Fenix makes too many flashlights to hand select LED's, especially with the new XML.


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## recDNA (Apr 18, 2011)

srfreddy said:


> Bad LED? There's always variation, and Fenix makes too many flashlights to hand select LED's, especially with the new XML.


 

Thrunite V3 pushes 3.5 amps and doesn't attain 800 ansi lumens. Does fenix push theirs harder? No. I think the 820 is just bogus.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


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## srfreddy (Apr 18, 2011)

recDNA said:


> Thrunite V3 pushes 3.5 amps and doesn't attain 800 ansi lumens. Does fenix push theirs harder? No. I think the 820 is just bogus.
> 
> Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


 
No....3.5 amps doesn't do much except heat the led up, and a tad more lumens. Thrunite advertises 1000 lumens for it. The 820 I can trust.


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## G_L (Apr 19, 2011)

srfreddy said:


> No....3.5 amps doesn't do much except heat the led up, and a tad more lumens. Thrunite advertises 1000 lumens for it. The 820 I can trust.


 
The Fenix TK-35 is a good thrower. I have compared it to 4Sevens S12. My S12 puts out 860 OTF lms first 30 secs, and is much brighter than the TK-35.


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## poon (Apr 19, 2011)

much brighter? any beamshots?
last week i compared some beamshots of s12 and tk35 and chose tk35 because of its balanced flood/throw


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## srfreddy (Apr 19, 2011)

The S12 pushes over 1000 lumens at turnon, FYI.


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## selfbuilt (Apr 19, 2011)

recDNA said:


> Great review...but it makes me wonder about Fenix ANSI numbers. Your measurement of Eagletac about the same as theirs but Fenix claiming 820 ANSI lumens? Hmmm





srfreddy said:


> Bad LED? There's always variation, and Fenix makes too many flashlights to hand select LED's, especially with the new XML.


Again, my lightbox conversion estimate to lumens is very approximate (so I make no comment about the accuracy of the absolute value). But my results show that all the high-output XM-L lights I've tested to date are remarkably consistent in the overall output. :shrug:

Personally, I am not clear as to how Fenix could have managed to produce a higher output light, compared to the others (unless they are using a higher bin output emitter). So, the comparable results shown here are not really surprising to me, assuming they are all using XM-L T6s. But we are also talking about a less than 10% difference in Fenix's numbers compared to the others, and it is not hard to see how that kind of variation could occur in testing. This may all fall within natural variation between samples (again, n=1 for each of my light samples).

As always, I recommend people focus on beam pattern, interface and build issues when trying to choose between lights.


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## Lightups (May 1, 2011)

Thank you for a very detailed review.

I have not used Turbo mode for more than a minute or so at a time since I got the light, but the other day I left it on Turbo for around 15 minutes, and the head was extremely hot to the touch. Is this normal? The body was also pretty warm, and the batteries(AW 2600s) were lukewarm. Thanks for any feedback.


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## selfbuilt (May 1, 2011)

Lightups said:


> I have not used Turbo mode for more than a minute or so at a time since I got the light, but the other day I left it on Turbo for around 15 minutes, and the head was extremely hot to the touch. Is this normal? The body was also pretty warm, and the batteries(AW 2600s) were lukewarm. Thanks for any feedback.


Yes, this is normal. All the high-output lights get warm on Turbo/Max, especially if left unattended. This is why a number have internal thermal sensors, or timed step-downs (like the TK35).

Should be perfectly safe, but it is a good thing to keep in mind if you plan to pick up a light after its been left running unattended for some time.


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## DHart (May 6, 2011)

selfbuilt... thanks so much for, yet, another great review to benefit the flashlight lovers of this forum.

I was recently seeking a really potent light for use while on the road in my new motorhome... from many suggestions, I decided to go with the TK45 for it's potency and ability to run on AA Eneloops (and alkalines if push comes to shove). I see the AA powering design as making extremely good sense in a light which might need power replenishment on-the-road, who-knows-where. I'm totally thrilled with the output, tint, beam, and user interface of the TK45. I find the triple-head design a bit weird, but I sure can't argue with the results... what the TK45 delivers to the flashlight user is nothing short of fantastic!

Now, more to the point... being a true flashaholic, I also wanted a similarly potent light that ran on my other favorite rechargeable powering source... 18650 li-ions. Partially based on your review, I decided to order a TK35 which, by all accounts, seems like a fantastic choice in a "monster" output light of compact size, for a reasonable price. Hoping my luck with the tint lottery is good. Should arrive tomorrow or Saturday and I can't wait to receive it and try it out. Thanks again for the many great reviews that you offer our community!


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## UHF (May 11, 2011)

That's excellent review, thanks.


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## brightnorm (May 14, 2011)

Bass said:


> ...I have two XM-L lights (Catapult V2 and Lumintop TD15X) and the Thrunite Catapult has one of the best tints I have seen, really nice. The Lumintop however, is very cool, the spill is purplish - I would estimate >7000K. It's not objectional, just not optimum (for my tastes) and interestingly, opposite to your green sample - quite a variation with the XM-L and shows that you cannot guarantee what you recieve....


This is exactly how I would describe the beam tints of my Catapult V2 and Lumintop XM-L.

Brightnorm


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## squaat (May 20, 2011)

Just got my hands on a new tk35. My first foray into non nimh powered lights. I have to say I'm impressed, very impressed. I think I won the tint lottery, a nice creamy white beam, although my LED is a tad off center, but unnoticeable in real life usage. I just hope the rattly switch doesn't become this lights weak point.


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## Templar223 (May 26, 2011)

I'm not nearly as flash-a-geeky as some here, but I got my TK-35 a couple of weeks ago.

Its "high" setting is for showing off.
Its "turbo" setting is obnoxiously bright.

I've built my share of Mag951s and ROPs over the years and the TK-35 has pretty much just replaced all of them.

Lighter, smaller, MUCH less high-maintenance, more flexible and cheaper.

I highly recommend it.

John


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## DHart (May 26, 2011)

I've had my TK-35 for a bit over a week or so and have had the opportunity to go out in the large expanse of nature with this light.

All I can say is WOW. For such a small and convenient form factor, moderate price, this light is a beautiful, nimble little MONSTER!

There is a little green in the tint noticible when white wall hunting, but in practical usage outdoors, the beam is extremely good,
clean, bright, and has no tint issues whatsoever. I am extremely impressed with the TK-35 and now consider it to be one of my
absolute MUST HAVE lights. It is easily my first choice light when I want to go outside and turn night into day. Not too narrowly
focused so it has a nicely useable wide beam for near field use, but the central beam is intense enough to be a great thrower
as well... good throw, good near field illumination... my perfect combination for an outdoor general use light. I REALLY love this light!


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## rayman (May 27, 2011)

Really nice review as always . What I really like about this light is the parallel 18650 style.

rayman


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## dimitr3 (May 30, 2011)

Great review, Selfbuilt. Now I'm inclined to go out and look for one locally. Keep 'em coming!


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## karabala (May 31, 2011)

Very usefull review, thank you...


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## ScaryFatKidGT (May 31, 2011)

Do you like this over the TK41 or 45? Will the TK series deffuser tip fit this??


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## selfbuilt (May 31, 2011)

ScaryFatKidGT said:


> Do you like this over the TK41 or 45? Will the TK series deffuser tip fit this??


Don't have the TK41, but I certainly like the compact size of the TK35. It's hard to compare, since they have completely different battery arrangements (i.e. if you want to use eneloop, then the TK41 sounds like a good design). No idea about diffuser options.


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## HKJ (May 31, 2011)

What light is best depends on a lot of factors, some factors are battery and size, another is the beam: TK41 has most throw, followed by TK35 and TK45 is last. I have compared all 3 and a few other lights in a beamshot.
I believe that the TK series diffuser is for TK15 size head and the TK35 is much larger (TK41 is larger than TK35).


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## brightnorm (May 31, 2011)

TK-35 Reviews from Amazon buyers:

http://www.amazon.com/Fenix-TK35-Performance-Lumen-Flashlight/product-reviews/B004I2EMXM/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1
 
Brightnorm


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## Hawkman (Jun 2, 2011)

Bought a TK35 for a colleague at work as a congratulatory gift for a year well done. Decided to get me one a week later. I absolutely love it. Guess I got lucky with the tint lottery, also. Seems a nice clean white. 

I like going for a walk to the park with my dog at night and turning dark into day. No one can hide from the Fenix in turbo! 

Good review, selfbuilt. Thanks for doing that.


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## brightnorm (Jun 2, 2011)

Out of curiosity I wanted to see if the TK-35 can be locked out. A cc turn of about one and a third revolutions will do it, and there are two full revolutions left so there is no danger of head detachment. This may be of little interest to most owners but I am glad that the option is there.

Brightnorm


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## bodhran (Jun 3, 2011)

I hadn't thought about it, but thanks brightnorm. A good idea.


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## BRO (Jun 3, 2011)

Ordered one tonight, looking forward to it . Hope I didn't buy the Jolly Green Beam, like to see that "nice clean white" that Hawkman speaks about....


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## brightnorm (Jun 4, 2011)

I own and enjoy my Catapult V2 XM-L, O-Light M3X XM-L, Eagletac M3C4 XM-L, Lumintop TD-15X XM-L and 4Sevens Maelstrom S12. They are all terrific lights, but after using the TK-35 extensively I believe that it is unique in the way it combines multiple assets: Compact size, and two-abreast battery configuration in an attractively streamlined body, relatively light weight, clever and convenient 2-button UI, headlight-type beam which achieves formidable throw without sacrificing decent width, excellent regulation and run time, and the general impression of enormous power issuing from what seems like a ridiculously small source. The fact that this outstanding light is available for around $100.00 is icing on an already tasty cake.

Brightnorm


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## DHart (Jun 5, 2011)

Brightnorm..... absolutely... the TK-35 is a masterful achievement. My only complaint is that the tail positioned switches are less than convenient for operation, but aside from that... the light is a total home run for me. It's such a great light that I would never let the placement of the switches dissuade me from buying this light.


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## brightnorm (Jun 5, 2011)

I agree about the switches, but after trying different ways of holding the light I found a grip that enables me to activate the mode switch with my little finger while holding the light in a comfortable "arm down" position for general use while walking. I can't activate the big button that way, but once it's on I'm all set. I always use the light with a short wrist lanyard which also serves as a comfortable balance that permits a very loose "gripless" hold when walking for long periods. I'm sorry I don't have a camera to show what I mean.

Brightnorm


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## selfbuilt (Jun 6, 2011)

I have just posted a new 100-yard round-up beamshot review for 2011, showcasing all my current "thrower" lights. Below is an animated GIF showing some relevant comparisons for the TK35. Please see that round-up review for additional pics of other lights, taken under the same conditions.


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## richpalm (Jun 14, 2011)

Between this review and the Amazon promotion, I ordered one... couldn't resist! From what I've read, I'm already expecting an emitter change... anyone had one of these open yet?

Rich


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## easilyled (Jun 15, 2011)

I tried to open mine because the bezel is fogging up.
However the threads have been glued.


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## richpalm (Jun 17, 2011)

Got mine... lost the tint lottery as usual. Horrible green just like my TK45.

I torched it apart-head in vise with torch put directly to it, and it took all my strength to open it. The emitter sits on a custom Fenix star, made for this light. So I had to reflow solder a new emitter in that's a tolerable tint.

Overall, I'm not overly impressed. Old or new emitter, it's a nice light but my Trustfire UF-980L is brighter. The TK35 is identical in output with my Sunwayman M40C so it's not a step upward. Both lights use AW 2200maH 18650's.

Rich


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## mwaldron (Jun 28, 2011)

I knew I wanted one of these the day I saw the announcement with a picture, but I just finally mustered up the will to order. The form factor and the UI sold me on this light.

I'm disappointed in myself, I broke my "no non-warm/high-cri" LEDs rule, but I'm pretty sure that an emitter swap is in this light's future. 

The main reason I'm posting is to say that I'm happy to say mine has no rattle at all when assembled, otherwise it's pretty much as described in this thread. My battery carrier is marked as a TX35-B(XM). Perhaps a B revision may have something to do with less rattle. 

I knew buying it I wasn't going to like the tint so the lottery didn't scare me too much but I will report mine is slightly purplish. 

Thanks for the review, it seems pretty much spot on!


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## recDNA (Jun 28, 2011)

Purple is a lot better than green imo. Green is the only color I cannot tolerate at all. All of the recent reports of green tints have scared me off of Felix for good.


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## samgab (Jun 28, 2011)

That's interesting. I got mine quite early on. The battery carrier has the same marking. I have rattle, but it comes from the plastic plungers in the end of the flashlight, there is no rattle from the battery carrier itself. And the rattle doesn't bother me. I reckon a tiny bit of something like petroleum jelly in between the plastic plungers and the retainer would stop the rattle, and it would still function fine.
What does bother me though, is that sometimes the electronic switch doesn't activate when it makes the clicking sound, and I have to press harder to actuate it. Other times it works at the same time it makes the clicky sound.


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## Bruno28 (Jul 30, 2011)

Hello, nice review!!!!
I was thinking of getting a fenix tk35,but wanted the rechargeable 18650.
Could I use a 3000 or 3800 or 4000mah battery on this flashlight?


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## selfbuilt (Jul 30, 2011)

Bruno28 said:


> I was thinking of getting a fenix tk35,but wanted the rechargeable 18650.
> Could I use a 3000 or 3800 or 4000mah battery on this flashlight?


The TK35 uses two rechargeable 18650. The highest reported capacity for an 18650 right now is 3100mAh, most are in the 2600-2900mAh range.

The only thing that reaches a 4000mAh rating is a 26650 battery. For that, you can look at my recent 4Sevens Maelstrom X10 review.


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## Bruno28 (Jul 30, 2011)

selfbuilt said:


> The TK35 uses two rechargeable 18650. The highest reported capacity for an 18650 right now is 3100mAh, most are in the 2600-2900mAh range.
> 
> The only thing that reaches a 4000mAh rating is a 26650 battery. For that, you can look at my recent 4Sevens Maelstrom X10 review.


 
Thanks for the reply!
How come in ebay they have this (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-Pcs-18650-4000mAh-3-7V-Protected-Rechargeable-Battery-/220820810560?pt=AU_Electronics_Batteries_Chargers&hash=item3369f22b40#ht_2688wt_902) which is a 4000mAh rechargeable 18650 battery? 
If it indeed is 4000mAh,could it be used?


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## Haesslich (Jul 30, 2011)

Can I say those like a fire hazard? Every spec sheet I've seen for Panasonic, Sanyo, Samsung, and even ones like GP show 2500-2900 mAh max capacity.


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## Bruno28 (Jul 30, 2011)

Haesslich said:


> Can I say those like a fire hazard? Every spec sheet I've seen for Panasonic, Sanyo, Samsung, and even ones like GP show 2500-2900 mAh max capacity.



I just got a TK35!
I was thinking of getting a Ultrafire 3000mAh 18650 rechargeable battery. Are they ok?


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## xtestifyx (Jul 30, 2011)

I know the owner of UltraFire personally. He has warned me of the endless clones of his products on the market. 

Brands like TrustFire are to be avoided, for that they are factory rejects from UltraFire originally. From what I know, UltraFire does not make 3000mah cells on the 18650 shape.

Good luck on your search, at the end you can always buy AW or RediLast but at a higher price point

FYI, I just did a search for an UltraFire labeled 3000mah battery. The images and links lead me to KaiDomain and DX, it's a red shrink wrapped battery. I would avoid it at all cost as some on CPF linked and complained that it was leaking and or under-performing.


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## Haesslich (Jul 31, 2011)

Bruno28 said:


> I just got a TK35!
> I was thinking of getting a Ultrafire 3000mAh 18650 rechargeable battery. Are they ok?


 
I'd say 'no', myself. Most UltraFire batteries out there are knockoffs. I tend to trust AW more than most - those cells are sourced properly from Panasonic. With lithium batteries and chargers, the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is the plain truth.


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## Bruno28 (Jul 31, 2011)

Ok, so whats a trustful website that I can buy 18650 rechargeable batteries that can be shipped to Australia?

Are these any good? 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Samsung-18650-ICR18650-30A-3000-Li-ion-3-7v-Battery-x2-/370531222854?pt=US_Batteries&hash=item564561c546#ht_2156wt_873
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Panasonic-NCR18650-18650-2900mAh-Li-ion-3-6v-Battery-x2-/370516607290?pt=US_Batteries&hash=item564482c13a#ht_2072wt_873


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## samgab (Jul 31, 2011)

Bruno28 said:


> Ok, so whats a trustful website that I can buy 18650 rechargeable batteries that can be shipped to Australia?
> 
> Are these any good?
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Samsung-18650-ICR18650-30A-3000-Li-ion-3-7v-Battery-x2-/370531222854?pt=US_Batteries&hash=item564561c546#ht_2156wt_873
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Panasonic-NCR18650-18650-2900mAh-Li-ion-3-6v-Battery-x2-/370516607290?pt=US_Batteries&hash=item564482c13a#ht_2072wt_873


 
Meh... Stick with protected. These are both very good and very trustworthy:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?230876-AW-s-LiIon-Batteries-Sales-Thread-*Part-12*
http://www.redilast.com/


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## Bruno28 (Jul 31, 2011)

samgab said:


> Meh... Stick with protected. These are both very good and very trustworthy:
> http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?230876-AW-s-LiIon-Batteries-Sales-Thread-*Part-12*
> http://www.redilast.com/



Awesome, thanks!!!
I sent a reply for a Aw battery.


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## iron potato (Aug 2, 2011)

Nice review ! That leads me to bought one too, its about 2 weeks since, powered with 2x Blue UltraFire 2,600mAH 18650, so far it serve me good, runtime is good with this Blue UltraFire, no any issue, but I concurred that sometimes it feels slippery with sweaty palm 

Unlikely to use Turbo mode, med to high already enough for me :twothumbs Speaking of Turbo mode, when I do a test burn, it does heats up to a uncomfortable level to hold it, but to my surprise, high mode is okay, oh well, maybe is just me :laughing:

Thanks again ~

P.S.: Btw, where to get AW 18650 cell ?


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## xtestifyx (Aug 2, 2011)

Your UltraFire cells are fake.(They don't make a blue 2600) Careful that they might not be protected by a chip so watch it when charging.

You can get the AW cells here: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?230876-AW-s-LiIon-Batteries-Sales-Thread-*Part-12*


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## iron potato (Aug 3, 2011)

xtestifyx said:


> Your UltraFire cells are fake.(They don't make a blue 2600) Careful that they might not be protected by a chip so watch it when charging.
> 
> You can get the AW cells here: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?230876-AW-s-LiIon-Batteries-Sales-Thread-*Part-12*


 

OMG, really ? 
I got it via ebay
*http://cgi.ebay.com.my/Ultrafire-Re...636741036?pt=US_Batteries&hash=item335ef97dac*

I tot it was a better quality cells, cuz I have had some bad experience with red UltraFire 3000mAH cells, 2 cells need to remove the protection chip, still okay, use it as unprotected, another 3 cells failed, I don't really pushing it, one is in the storage box too, I'd also removed the round protection board, still it wouldn't take a charge anymore 

I'd read AW cell is good amongst flashaholics, but I really have no idea how to get it  Anyway, bookmarked the AW battery link, I'll order some of it when my cell fail, thanks ~:thumbsup:


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## TK35 (Sep 6, 2011)

Great review. Just ordered one ! Thanks so much !

My initials are "TK" thus the username "TK35"....nothing to do with Fenix hehehehe.


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## FlashlightPhreak (Sep 9, 2011)

I like my TK35, BUT it also has the dreaded greenish tint. Not overly green but it's greenish compared to my P1D Q5.

Nevertheless, it's a bright sucker.......


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## Kilted (Sep 10, 2011)

I have had my TK35 for a few weeks now. Last week I took it into work as I was going to be working in a computer room buried in racks, under floors etc. I did my part and was sitting down working on a computer problem and my TK35 kept on getting borrowed.

With the included holster the TK35 makes a very good 'work' light its adjustable, compact and has long run time. My EDC (LED Lenser) is small easy to carry bright has two modes off/on. It is a three watt with a 14500 lithium, optic adjustable for flood/spot. Its a good EDC work light.

The TK35 is to big as a EDC for me. BUT I'm thinking it is a good "work duty" light no frills just a good solid bright flashlight, I think it is a keeper.


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## woodrow (Sep 15, 2011)

Thanks for the review. I wanted a new - smaller high output light than my T5l-45 and was kinda sick of the 8 aa batt setup. I grabbed one of these and I am seriously happy. My beam is normal white..not purple..not green, so that is a plus..and the led is well centered. I like the smaller size, and good usable throw. Its funny how good we have it now. I always wanted a M6 (incan) but never could get myself to spend the money (batt life more of a issue than light cost) but now I have a similar sized light that is brighter...it has at least made me no longer sad I never bought a M6 (did buy a m3 and m4). (now to put off the desire for a led M6) Nice light Fenix!


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## scaramanga (Sep 16, 2011)

easilyled said:


> I tried to open mine because the bezel is fogging up.
> However the threads have been glued.


 
Experienced this on mine too and can't seem to figure out why, and was unable to open it (threads were glued, I suspect), so I ended up scratching the inside parts of the head/reflector area. Sold the light and got myself another TK35 with clear glass. Do you think its a recurring scenario?


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## vincevoxbox (Nov 17, 2011)

has anyone ever tried fitting am aspheric lens on the TK35 ? would the 52mm for the Mag fit ?


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## led2011 (Dec 10, 2011)

firstly, for the reviewer, it is awesome work, especially the statistic graph.
second, I am plan to buy one fenix light so I have not tried fitting it. If I got one, I have tried to do it. Then I tell you that result.


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## BigBoreLEO (Dec 10, 2011)

Cool light, thanks for the review.


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## HIDC (Jan 4, 2012)

As a relatively new dealer, I got the chance to try out the entire line of Fenix and of the two TK35 we have, the tint is cool white with no hint of green or other color abberation. I'm not sure if it's still luck, or if they're running on better batches of XM-L now. This is an absolutely astounding light, if basic (compared to the Sunwayman) but it feels very durable. Agree that some more knurling would be good as the fine striations don't do much for grip.

@Flashlightphreak: compared to my P1 (yeah old), this is pure white. In contrast, two P1 I have are slightly purple, one tiny bit green and other is noticeably blue.

In regards to Ultrafires (and Trustfires). I have over 30 of them and in general, they have a very predictable discharge curve. Having said that, my buddy brought back a few gray TrustFire 2400mAH (1 year old) which sagged horribly and could barely maintain 3.1v @ 1.5a discharge... though it lasted for 1800 mAH. I agree the quality is likely suspect (not being A grade cells?). I've ordered in a slew of AW 3000 and 2600 and will compare. I'm guessing that once you've tasted the AWs, you really don't want to go back. Buy right, buy once, anyone?


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## Mach.84 (Feb 8, 2012)

Hello all! Just order the TK35 from amazon but could not order the Redilast from EDC website. Kept saying invalid address. But I have use that shipping address quite a fair bit. Any alternative?

Also, I have been on CR123 for many years. Just wondering if the TK35 could take the RCR123 (rechargeable)? On my fresh energizer CR123, it measured 3.56v. However, the RCR123 at 3.6v, that's only 0.04 x 4 = 0.16v different. Will it really matter? And how's using 18650 better than 123? (is it better endurance?) Sorry, as u can see I'm very new to this. Virgin post! :wave:
After reading so many reviews on 18650.... I'm a little confuse but I get the feeling panny cell r better and it boils down to how the IC manage the draw down and charging. Assuming protected.

Thanks a million for all the reviews in CPF and user info. I glued to the forum for the past few weeks... Now wife nagging...


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## iron potato (Feb 8, 2012)

Mach.84 said:


> Hello all! Just order the TK35 from amazon but could not order the Redilast from EDC website. Kept saying invalid address. But I have use that shipping address quite a fair bit. Any alternative?
> 
> Also, I have been on CR123 for many years. Just wondering if the TK35 could take the RCR123 (rechargeable)? On my fresh energizer CR123, it measured 3.56v. However, the RCR123 at 3.6v, that's only 0.04 x 4 = 0.16v different. Will it really matter? And how's using 18650 better than 123? (is it better endurance?) Sorry, as u can see I'm very new to this. Virgin post! :wave:
> After reading so many reviews on 18650.... I'm a little confuse but I get the feeling panny cell r better and it boils down to how the IC manage the draw down and charging. Assuming protected.
> ...



Hey Mach, welcome to the forum, I also started no long ago, got lotsa information here to read & learn.

As one of TK35 owner for awhile now, I like the compactness, built quality & user interface (UI) hope you'll like it too.

Fenix's site stated it meant for 4x CR123 or 2x 18650 power source.
My TK35 runs on 2x Hi-Max 2600mAh 18650, I didn't try on CR123 or RCR123, well yea 18650 should have higher capacity for the runtime (endurance) :thumbsup:

As for the 18650 cell part, Redilast a good start, which is one of the reputable brand, AW too, you can get it here >> http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?230876-AW-s-LiIon-Batteries-Sales-Thread-*Part-12*
Remember you need to register again for cpfmarketplace.

You also need a good charger to kick start with 18650, Pila charger is highly recommended over here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?188653-Pila-IBC-Charger-Review, there are some other nice chargers as well, I'm using Xtar WP2 II charger after I read the review over here & easily get one from HK http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Review-of-Measurement-on-Xtar-WP2-II-charger or http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...uilt-Review-of-the-Xtar-WP2-II-Li-ion-Charger

You're not alone, I also glued to this forum ever since :naughty:


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## Mach.84 (Feb 21, 2012)

iron potato said:


> You're not alone, I also glued to this forum ever since :naughty:



Thanks iron potato! Really appreciate your reply. Sorry it took so long for me to reply. Was busy with family. Which part are u from in Malaysia? I am ur neighbor down south! 

Actually I am not sure if this is the right place to post this. Please advise if I should start a new topic on this. Thanks in advance.

My TK35 EXPLODED! Here is the detail:

I bought my Fenix flashlight model TK35 from online service provider, Amazon.Com on 7th Feb 2012. I received the TK35 on the 10th and have been using the wonderful light ever since.

However just yesterday, 21st Feb, the TK35 exploded internally while the light is on high for about 7 minutes. I had read various report on the danger of using industry batteries 18650 on these high power flashlight. So from day 1, I had been using the recommended CR123A batteries and it works fine till yesterday.

Details:
- Setting on 'High'
- Use as stand lamp to bounce off ceiling
- Room temperature around 23 degree Celsius (Air conditioning)
- Batteries: * 4 x CR123A (GOLSTON)

After 7 minutes of use, we heard a loud 'Pop' sound and smell something is burning. To our surprise, the light is still on and the burning smell get worse. The click switch does not work because the white spacer within the rubber boot got expel out through the tear on the rubber boot. So, I had to twist the head of the TK35 to turn off the light.

After the incident, I removed the batteries holder and discover that one of the CR123A battery had exploded and fuse itself to the plastic holder. I begin to wonder if the driver on the TK35 had malfunction to draw such current that it generate such heat that cause one of the CR123A to explode and fuse itself to the plastic holder. I had other LED flashlight which I bought few years back which I am still using with the same brand of batteries without any problem. So sad... I love this flashligh but it failed on me just 2 weeks of using it. 

Can anyone here advise how or what I should do next. I just email Fenix and hope they will reply soon. Just wondering if I should return to Amazon or Fenix.... Anyway, will post pics soon. Once again, thanks in advance.


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## selfbuilt (Feb 21, 2012)

Mach.84 said:


> After the incident, I removed the batteries holder and discover that one of the CR123A battery had exploded and fuse itself to the plastic holder. I begin to wonder if the driver on the TK35 had malfunction to draw such current that it generate such heat that cause one of the CR123A to explode and fuse itself to the plastic holder. I had other LED flashlight which I bought few years back which I am still using with the same brand of batteries without any problem. So sad... I love this flashligh but it failed on me just 2 weeks of using it.


A good description of your problem - but it sounds a like a battery failure.

High-output XM-L lights on 4xCR123A draw a lot power from the cells. I have seen plenty of examples of PTC circuits engaging in these types of setups (see my recent Tiablo A60G for a recent example). The amount of heat they generate is extreme, which can damage the cells or the circuit. 

By all means, contact Fenix or your dealer to see what they say. I also recommend you post your experience in the CR123A battery failure/venting with flame thread in the battery subforum. But ultimately, it is a failure of the cell. 

With good quality cells, I would expect PTC engagement to limit output. But on budget quality or damaged cells, venting with flame is a possibility (as you have described). I am sorry to say, but golston is considered a budget brand here. And all >700 lumen lights are extremely taxing on 4xCR123A cells.


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## Mach.84 (Feb 21, 2012)

Oppss... Picture upload failure. Will post pics on another thread to save space on CPF forum. Please refer to this link: My CR123A (GOLSTON) Exploded

Edit: Link to the pics #17

Hi selfbuilt, thanks for the reply. Initially I thought is the driver that fail. However, I was running it the whole night before this incident on 'High' mode without any failure and it was cool to touch. I click up to 'Turbo' mode but the batteries couldn't drive it anymore. (As in no different in brightness from 'High' mode) So, I let it run overnight and it work fine till the 2nd day when it was turn on for merely 7 mins or so... and this incident happened.

On this note, I thought if the batteries could not supply enough voltage or capacity, the driver will automatically switch to the next lower mode which draw much lesser current. Even if it is on 'High' mode, its about half of what the 'Turbo' mode is in terms of lumens. Fenix state that when on 'Turbo', it will generate up to 820 lumens. On 'High', up to 346 lumens.

I have a LED flashlight bought in Japan but I believed it is made in China, has a far better control... at least in my opinion. It only has 2 mode, High and Low. When ever the capacity of the batteries run low, the brightness output will dim a little. And it is linear on 'Low' mode too. Meaning, the 'Low' mode will be dimmer than before. These will continue until the light output is no longer usable. It uses 2 x CR123A. Is this voltage driven or current driven? I am really curious because I have not had any issue with CR123A till now. Btw, how can one tell if the light is current or voltage driven by using just a multimeter? Is it safe to use 18650 (protected) with this light without worry the batteries will "poof" again? Oh, Pila and 18650 on the way but now this happen. 

I do have the Energizer CR123A but I use it only for my C3 as it is an incan and some of the golston could not even power the C3. So I give up using golston on my C3. Crap batteries..... sorry for my language. 

Thanks again selfbuilt in advance!


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## selfbuilt (Feb 22, 2012)

Mach.84 said:


> Will post pics on another thread to save space on CPF forum. Please refer to this link: My CR123A (GOLSTON) Exploded


I am glad to see you posted that thread in the batteries forum. The members there have the most direct battery experience, and I see they have reached the same conclusion I did on the golston cells. I think it's best to keep all the battery discussions in that thread, as it is the most appropriate place for them.

Same goes for the discussion of how various circuits work - that forum is the best place for those discussions too. But in general terms, the TK35 is a well regulated light (i.e. well stabilized). This means that it draws more power from the batteries in order to maintain flat output for as long as possible (to put it in simple terms). Your two-stage light is likely much simpler, and could even be as simple as direct-drive with a resistor for Lo. Multi-cell setups are always more inherently dangerous, if one of the cells is defective, damaged or over-discharged compared to the other.

As for your question about the TK35, that is tough to answer. If the light was still working when all this went down, the head is possibly still ok. But at a minimum, you will need a new battery carrier - the old one should be discarded. But I would be concerned about the light's long-term reliability, given that smoke and other expunged gases/materials from the malfunctioning cell may have found their way in to the head. That won't be good for the electronics, I would think.


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## iron potato (Feb 23, 2012)

Mach.84 said:


> My TK35 EXPLODED! ....



OMG ! feel sorry for the bad news indeed 

selfbuilt is informative, take his advise, hope u can enjoy your TK35 as soon possible, btw, I like to read his reviews over here too

P.S. : I'm located up up North of Penang Island :wave:


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## Mach.84 (Feb 25, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> .......Same goes for the discussion of how various circuits work - that forum is the best place for those discussions too. But in general terms, the TK35 is a well regulated light (i.e. well stabilized). This means that it draws more power from the batteries in order to maintain flat output for as long as possible (to put it in simple terms). Your two-stage light is likely much simpler, and could even be as simple as direct-drive with a resistor for Lo. Multi-cell setups are always more inherently dangerous, if one of the cells is defective, damaged or over-discharged compared to the other.
> 
> As for your question about the TK35, that is tough to answer....



Hi selfbuilt, that thread indeed has alot of info which I did not even read before. Wish I read it before I purchased the TK35. Yes, the electronic stuff will be hard to predict given what it had been through. But then again, everything is working even when after it happened. So, guess I give it a try ( as in salvaging the TK35) before getting another one. Maybe buy another one and use the old one as spare. I really like the UI on the TK35 as it suits my usage style. Oh forgot to mention..... that I won the tint lottery too! For the indoor it really looks greenish just on the side of the hot spot but white on the spill. Outdoor looks brilliant! Will have some photoshot posted here once I salvage/replace the TK35.
Yeap, think my old LED is a direct drive too! No wonder it can handle the crap 123 so well... 

Once again thanks for your enlightenment. :thumbsup: 




iron potato said:


> OMG ! feel sorry for the bad news indeed
> 
> selfbuilt is informative, take his advise, hope u can enjoy your TK35 as soon possible, btw, I like to read his reviews over here too
> 
> P.S. : I'm located up up North of Penang Island :wave:



Yeah I feel bad for my family as the smell really bad when it happened. Now I'm in contact with Fenix and really hope I can salvage my TK35. Will update the fate of my TK35 once I have the news from Fenix.
Oh, I miss the Penang fried kuah teow... Maybe will meet up with ya one day. Cheers! :wave:


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## elendril (Feb 28, 2012)

Many thanks for selfbuilt for his great review! 

Helped me decide to get a TK35 as my first LED torch.. Should be arriving next week


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## Force 10 (Mar 2, 2012)

Great review. Just ordered one ! Thanks so much !

Now trying to decide on 18650 batteries (thinking of going with the AW's) and a charger.


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## iron potato (Mar 4, 2012)

Force 10 said:


> Great review. Just ordered one ! Thanks so much !
> 
> Now trying to decide on 18650 batteries (thinking of going with the AW's) and a charger.



Welcome :wave:
Can't go wrong with AW, get a Pila or Xtar WP2 II charger, search for their reviews, I'm using WP2 II, so far so good


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## Sigwag69 (Mar 21, 2012)

Ill have to put this in the collection. Thanks for a great review, it got me off of the fence.


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## treliving (Sep 22, 2012)

I just purchased my TK35 and I have a question regarding the batteries. It seems the battery of choice is the 18650. These batteries, 18650, come in 3.2V and 3.7V. In the owners manual it says the 18650 3.2V is ok and it rates the 18650 3.7V as caution. On the Fenix website it shows the 18650 3.7V in the TK35, battery, and charger combo. What is everyone using and is the 3.7V safe?


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## selfbuilt (Sep 22, 2012)

treliving said:


> I just purchased my TK35 and I have a question regarding the batteries. It seems the battery of choice is the 18650. These batteries, 18650, come in 3.2V and 3.7V. In the owners manual it says the 18650 3.2V is ok and it rates the 18650 3.7V as caution. On the Fenix website it shows the 18650 3.7V in the TK35, battery, and charger combo. What is everyone using and is the 3.7V safe?


More accurately, batteries are distinguished by their specific chemistry - different chemistries have different characteristics (including voltage). The vast majority or rechargeable Li-ions batteries used here are 3.7V ICR-based batteries (with protection circuits). IMR-based batteries are also popular (3.7V, unprotected). There are lower voltage cells based on other chemistries, but they are less common. Note also the rated voltage is nominal - max voltage fully charged is higher.

Check out the batteries and electronics sub-forum here for more information of Li-ions, and their safe handling. :wave:


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## Bwolcott (Oct 2, 2012)

treliving said:


> I just purchased my TK35 and I have a question regarding the batteries. It seems the battery of choice is the 18650. These batteries, 18650, come in 3.2V and 3.7V. In the owners manual it says the 18650 3.2V is ok and it rates the 18650 3.7V as caution. On the Fenix website it shows the 18650 3.7V in the TK35, battery, and charger combo. What is everyone using and is the 3.7V safe?





3.7 volt is fine buy good quality batteries though, not the trustfire etc... on ebay, go for AW, Eagletac, Xtar etc..


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## cmichael (Oct 5, 2012)

Just got a new TK35, they are XML-U2 LED, Its that a different between the old style? I need some extra battery too, I had some old AW 18650 2200mah, How about some high cap battery that recommended, I see some Eagle tac 3100mah, its that save to use?

Thanks..


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## selfbuilt (Oct 5, 2012)

cmichael said:


> Just got a new TK35, they are XML-U2 LED, Its that a different between the old style? I need some extra battery too, I had some old AW 18650 2200mah, How about some high cap battery that recommended, I see some Eagle tac 3100mah, its that save to use?


The only difference is a slight increase in output with the higher U2 bin. On average, the each higher bin is ~6-7% brighter than the previous bin (as measured at a specific drive level). But because each bin is a range of output performers, any give U2 sample could anywhere from ~1-14% brighter than any T6 sample (assuming identical circuits). Simply put, you are not likely to notice the nominal increase in output/throw, although you might be able to see it with two samples side-by-side.

And the Eageltac 3100mAh cells will work fine.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Oct 5, 2012)

I have had my TK35 for a long time, I had no idea it had Strobe. LOL


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## selfbuilt (Oct 5, 2012)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> I have had my TK35 for a long time, I had no idea it had Strobe. LOL


And that's the way it should be!


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## cmichael (Oct 5, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> The only difference is a slight increase in output with the higher U2 bin. On average, the each higher bin is ~6-7% brighter than the previous bin (as measured at a specific drive level). But because each bin is a range of output performers, any give U2 sample could anywhere from ~1-14% brighter than any T6 sample (assuming identical circuits). Simply put, you are not likely to notice the nominal increase in output/throw, although you might be able to see it with two samples side-by-side.
> 
> And the Eageltac 3100mAh cells will work fine.



Thanks Selfbuilt for info, I like the light, I have 90 day return policy from sportsman warehouse, its this a best light for this size in tern in throw and spill?


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## selfbuilt (Oct 5, 2012)

cmichael said:


> Thanks Selfbuilt for info, I like the light, I have 90 day return policy from sportsman warehouse, its this a best light for this size in tern in throw and spill?


It is certainly a good performer, with a good interface.


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## moldyoldy (Oct 6, 2012)

cmichael said:


> Thanks Selfbuilt for info, I like the light, I have 90 day return policy from sportsman warehouse, its this a best light for this size in tern in throw and spill?



just jumping in here: Of all of the lights I have, the TK35 is still the best in terms of size (still pocketable in a jacket), handling characteristics, good spill with reasonable throw, and only 2x 18650s. handling the light with gloves in cold weather leads to a brief bit of confusion as to which button to push until you get used to it. Yes, other lights have more lumens, smaller, throw farther, etc. etc. Fenix made a very good compromise between all of the factors with the TK35. Many other posters have written about the same comment.

My budding flashaholic nephews think the same. One of them kept my TK35...still waiting for it to return....maybe that is a good excuse to purchase the slight upgrade to the TK35 with the XML-U2.


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 6, 2012)

"Fenix made a very good compromise between all of the factors with the TK35."

Agreed. One of my best lights, and one of my most-used.


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## Bigpapi13 (Oct 9, 2012)

I bought this light this summer. I used it a lot during backyard barbeques as my son and his cousins would run around in the backyard playing at night. The "whoahs" and "wows" from the guests we had over always make me chuckle a little. I was asked more than once what kind of spotlight I had...and then I would put it in my pocket.


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## brightnorm (Oct 9, 2012)

Deleted


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## NYFLASH (Oct 10, 2012)

I just received my TK35 today. I was skeptical at first due to the 18650 batteries that I've never had experience with. The light is fantastic. I coupled it with the AW 18650 3100 mAH batteries with a PILA IBC charger. The size, brightness, as well as general ergonomics of the Fenix TK35 are perfect!


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## 2w2x1 (Dec 13, 2012)

Thanks for the review! Picked up this model as a lightning deal through amazon and am glad I did and sounds like a great entry light.

Regards,
Joey


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## Bram (Jan 9, 2013)

NYFLASH said:


> I just received my TK35 today. I was skeptical at first due to the 18650 batteries that I've never had experience with. The light is fantastic. I coupled it with the AW 18650 3100 mAH batteries with a PILA IBC charger. The size, brightness, as well as general ergonomics of the Fenix TK35 are perfect!



I also were skeptical, i bought the LD22 first but it was not bright enough, i use it for my work in the field. Bought the ld22 on ebay.com, the tk35 in my own country. Ebay was not that good of a experience for me...
The Fenix Tk35 rocked my world, really fantastic light. Also not that expensive, a college has a polarion ph50 thats much better but for 20x times the price this is the best alternative!


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## degarb (Feb 23, 2013)

Has anyone done a tail cap current reading for all the modes?

I am also irritated that the candela is not stated on for the other modes. I supposed 368/860 x 29000 = 12308 for high setting and 4460 candela for mid setting.

Now the 4460 lux at 1 meter would match the hp11 lux at 133 lumens, which seems high for a xml! The xml is something like 2.5 weaker throw than the xml, so the reflector must be pretty big to over come this.


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## Branman (Feb 23, 2013)

Wow! This review is incredible. I was looking at picking the tk35 up and couldnt find good info on it. This thread is info overload. Thanks for taking the time and doing this review cus im sold on the tk35 now. :twothumbs


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## LightCrazy (Feb 25, 2013)

Well, I sprung for the TK35 and got a light almost as green as my TK15 S2. Turbo is not too bad, more of a yellow tint- definitely not as white as my PD32 S2 or my Nitecore MT40. The MT40 is whiter at all brightness levels, and is not blue either. Trying to see if there are any whiter TK35's in stock. Tint is most noticeable on a white wall, and even more when comparing against a light that is not green! I'm sure tha tint kills some if the perceived brightness as well. Any thoughts??


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## degarb (Feb 26, 2013)

Got mine last night no green. I won lotto.

To respond to man who wrote sunnyway light is as good, "The driver is better in the Fenix lights. " It makes no sense to slam an led with max current where it is less efficient than a direct drive Coleman xpe, then use pulse width modulation to dim it. Even if you only use high, you start out with 4 volt on a led with a forward voltage of 2.8 and are still waisting voltage that should be converted to current. This is one main reason I steer clear of most light in this forum and why I am faithful to fenix.

I have no use for flashlights. Flashlight people must hold their lights, and so must only use them a few minutes here and a few there. But marry them with your work, and headlamp or wrist mounted, is the only way to go. (I tried chest and neck, but light was never where I was looking.)

So, I was a little sick when the light arrived and so darn big and heavy. I can nail nails into a wall with this thing. I should have read closer that this was a half a pound. I probably should have ordered a bt20 to convert to a wrist light. 

The light has the output I like, even beam pattern. I am certain that a two 18650, with fenix driver, is the only way to step up meaningfully from the 150 lumen over 8 to 10 hour runtime, needed for a workday. I was surprised that the color was so neutral, even compared with the hp11. 
'
I think a better design would be a lighter grade of aluminum, an xpg2 with a head no bigger than the hp11. I would be happy with a high of 365 lumens with same current draw as now. Loose the high and half or more of the beef.

I even think the hp20 should have a 2 18650 option.

Well I finally think I got a design. I got a left handed ace wrist brace (all flexible) with glue and elastic and velcro, got a reasonable wrist light. Though probably not as practical as my single 18650 xpg2 from Hank, but there, the weakness is the driver (pwm means 90 lpw) and the orange peel reflector.


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## StinkEye (Mar 12, 2013)

I'm looking for my first good light and this one is high on the list right now. I am considering others as well and making a list as I learn about them. The RC15 looks interesting as do some Eagtac models.
Question: Is the big drop from Turbo mode at 860lm and High at 300ish typical?
Thanks for the great information on this light. I hope to make a decission soon.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 12, 2013)

StinkEye said:


> Question: Is the big drop from Turbo mode at 860lm and High at 300ish typical?


Perception-wise, it's not as great as the numbers make it seem. We perceive output in a non-linear way, so the difference won't seem so huge to you in practice. 

:welcome:


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## StinkEye (Mar 14, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Perception-wise, it's not as great as the numbers make it seem. We perceive output in a non-linear way, so the difference won't seem so huge to you in practice.
> 
> :welcome:



Thanks for the welcome.
So what you are saying is that even though there is a greater than 50% drop in lumens (output?), it is still quite bright and it appears to be something less than the 50% decrease. Is that correct? Does power consumption follow a linear correlation to the lumens - ie 50% decrease in lumens = 50% decrease in battery consumption?


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## selfbuilt (Mar 15, 2013)

StinkEye said:


> So what you are saying is that even though there is a greater than 50% drop in lumens (output?), it is still quite bright and it appears to be something less than the 50% decrease. Is that correct?


Yes, that is right - the difference will not seem as great to you, relatively speaking (due to how we perceive brightness).



> Does power consumption follow a linear correlation to the lumens - ie 50% decrease in lumens = 50% decrease in battery consumption?


No, emitters are more efficient when driven to lower levels, so output to power consumption is not linear. You can infer this from my runtime graphs - the TK35 is a little less than half as bright on Hi compared to re-started Turbo, but runs for more than three times as long on the same batteries. For that matter, output to current relationship is not perfectly linear either (although it is close enough over small changes to be considered reasonably so). If you check the manufacturer specification data sheets for any emitter, you will typical see sample curves. 

But in the larger scheme of things, it is definitely our relative perceptions that are far more non-linear. They actually follow a power relationship, as I describe in this post: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?309976&p=3589726&viewfull=1#post3589726


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## RemcoM (Mar 15, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, that is right - the difference will not seem as great to you, relatively speaking (due to how we perceive brightness).
> 
> 
> Not exactly - the output to current relationship is not perfectly linear (although it is close enough over small changes to be considered reasonably so). If you check the manufacturer specification data sheets for any emitter, you will typical see sample curves.
> ...



Hi,

Your TK35 has only 20000 cd of beam intensity, while manufacturer says 35,000 cd , thats a bit dissapointing.

1 How come, that it is so less?

2 You have, or had, also the Fenix TK41, or the TK60?

Much more throw.

What is your opinion about the TK41, and the TK60?


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## selfbuilt (Mar 15, 2013)

RemcoM said:


> Your TK35 has only 20000 cd of beam intensity, while manufacturer says 35,000 cd , thats a bit dissapointing.
> 1 How come, that it is so less?


Again, this is an older review, published almost two years ago. In that time, Fenix has updated its emitters. It's current standard TK35 XM-L U2 is reported by Fenix to have 29,000 cd.

Also, I was using an inexpensive lightmeter at the time this review was completed. My more recent reviews have results using a NIST-certified lightmeter, which typically increased the measures of most my lights. See for example:







But again, this measure is from a two-year TK35 sample.



> 2 You have, or had, also the Fenix TK41, or the TK60?


No, I haven't reviewed those lights.


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## BringerOfLight (Mar 17, 2013)

RemcoM said:


> Hi,
> 
> Your TK35 has only 20000 cd of beam intensity, while manufacturer says 35,000 cd , thats a bit dissapointing.
> 
> 1 How come, that it is so less?



My TK35 with XML T6 (1 year old) comes in at 36000cd (measured at 5m with calibrated spectrometer). My reflector looks a lot smoother than the picture from the review.

Keep in mind that tiny differences in LED positioning can make a giant difference in throw. So I think selfbuilt's sample doesn't have perfect reflector and the LED alignment is a bit of.


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## degarb (Mar 17, 2013)

RemcoM said:


> Hi,
> 
> Your TK35 has only 20000 cd of beam intensity, while manufacturer says 35,000 cd , thats a bit dissapointing.
> 
> ...




The stated is 29,000. I am reading 28,000. Not a fancy meter. And U2 bin. This is normal since bin's vary 5% or is it %15.

The 360 lumen rating: 12,000 ccd on my meter.

The 120 lumen rating: 4,100


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## theOS (Mar 23, 2013)

Hi , what batteries do you recommend for the tk35 (Panasonic 3100/3400mAh; efest 3100mAh; Ampmax 3100mAh; Ultrafire 3100mAh) ?

I totally recommend this flashlight , i use it every night!


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## selfbuilt (Mar 23, 2013)

theOS said:


> Hi , what batteries do you recommend for the tk35 (Panasonic 3100/3400mAh; efest 3100mAh; Ampmax 3100mAh; Ultrafire 3100mAh) ?


That's really a question for the electronics and batteries subforum here. I don't have any specific recommendations for batteries.


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## can'townenough (Nov 22, 2013)

Thank you self built for you very excellent review of this light which I actually have purchased two of since I liked mine alot and I needed a present for my mom. When I purchased the second one it was when they had just changed from the T6 to a U2 adding another 40 lumens drastically reducing the price of the older version at the time around 65-75. It doesn't compare with the nitecore TM11 as far as output per ounce. I do like that it has the sos setting unlike the TM11.


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