# Fenix E21 R2 arrived, pictures



## PerttiK (Sep 8, 2010)

This just came from the mail:







Here it is with some buddies, TK12 and LD20






Here it is in pieces, after being 5 minutes out of the package.






The emitter.






The head from other direction.





Tailcap front end.






The front end of tube.






The other end of tube.






Very quick beamshot 0.5m from the wall.





This comes with two o-rings, tailcap boot and lanyard, no holster.
The tint is cooler than in my other fenixes.
The light is really solidly build compared to LD20, tube is almost 2mm thick from the battery end.
This feels quite like the TK series.
Forward clicky, 150 or 48 lumens, selected by tightening or loosening the head.

Edit:
Just noticed this after wondering why the knurling felt so nice and sticky:





Update, added tint comparison.

Here's tint comparison with E21 premium R2, TK12 R2, E21 neutral Q4:





E21 R2:





E21 neutral Q4:





Outdoor shots using Canon A510, white balance sunlight, ISO 50, 4s, F2.6

Two more beamshots, this time with auto white balance:

E21 R2:





E21 neutral Q4:


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## CyberCT (Sep 8, 2010)

I'm a little confused on the "neutral white" color.

http://www.fenixlight.com/viewnproduct.asp?id=73

I don't a yellowish white light, just a "white" light. Yet you say the tint is cooler than your other fenixes. I'm really interested in the LD40, which I believe is a "neutral white" R4 LED, but don't want a yellowish white either.

Also, why is the runtime of just over 2 hours at 135 lumens on the E21 basically the same runtime as the LD20 R4 that outputs 205 lumens?

2 hours 15 mins @ 135 lumens (2 AAs) - E21
2 hours 0 mins @ 205 lumens (2 AAs) - LD20 R4


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## fannin (Sep 8, 2010)

sorry i might be confused but is the e21 with an r2 led the same as my eagletac p20a2 old version? also my d10 nitecore is r2 is that the same one?

the one that throws well?


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## jupello (Sep 8, 2010)

CyberCT said:


> I'm a little confused on the "neutral white" color.
> 
> http://www.fenixlight.com/viewnproduct.asp?id=73
> 
> I don't a yellowish white light, just a "white" light. Yet you say the tint is cooler than your other fenixes. I'm really interested in the LD40, which I believe is a "neutral white" R4 LED, but don't want a yellowish white either.



There's 2 versions of E21 out there. One with Cool White R2 LED (the one OP has) and one with Q4 Neutral White (the one you linked to).


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## calipsoii (Sep 8, 2010)

fannin said:


> sorry i might be confused but is the e21 with an r2 led the same as my eagletac p20a2 old version? also my d10 nitecore is r2 is that the same one?
> 
> the one that throws well?



This is the way I understand it:

The exact same manufacturing process does not produce exactly identical LED's every single time. Each one is a bit different than the one created before and after it. They are tested after creation, and based on their output level and efficiency, they are grouped into different bins. R2 is a bin number. So is R5. An LED emitter (for example an XP-G) that is placed into the R5 bin has a higher output/efficiency than an R2 (which may have been created just moments before it).

There are also tint bins (5A3, 7A, etc) that work basically the same, but instead classify the color/tint of light the LED emits.

Hope that helps clear it up. If you're looking to compare your Nitecore light to the new Fenix one, compare the emitter (XP-E vs. XP-G) instead of the bin number.


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## kramer5150 (Sep 8, 2010)

Killer... reminds me of the old Fenix lego, L1T-V2 head onto 2AA L2T body that members were doing 2-3 years ago. That one was good for ~150L OTF.


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## fannin (Sep 8, 2010)

calipsoii said:


> This is the way I understand it:
> 
> The exact same manufacturing process does not produce exactly identical LED's every single time. Each one is a bit different than the one created before and after it. They are tested after creation, and based on their output level and efficiency, they are grouped into different bins. R2 is a bin number. So is R5. An LED emitter (for example an XP-G) that is placed into the R5 bin has a higher output/efficiency than an R2 (which may have been created just moments before it).
> 
> ...


so is my nitecore d10 and my eagletac p20a2 old version mk1 both XP-E r2 lights? while this fenix e21 is an XP-G r2 (like the new ld20 is an xp-g r4)?

thanks so much, i find this a little confusing at times, i didn't know there was an xp-g r2


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## jirik_cz (Sep 8, 2010)

fannin said:


> so is my nitecore d10 and my eagletac p20a2 old version mk1 both XP-E r2 lights? while this fenix e21 is an XP-G r2 (like the new ld20 is an xp-g r4)?



This light uses Cree *XP-E* R2. And your older lights use *XR-E* R2 (AFAIK). Both XP-E and XR-E are good for throw (better than XP-G).


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## sol-leks (Sep 8, 2010)

personally, I'm more interested in the neutral version but I'm impressed with how solid this light is. Thanks for sharing your review.


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## fannin (Sep 8, 2010)

jirik_cz said:


> This light uses Cree *XP-E* R2. And your older lights use *XR-E* R2 (AFAIK). Both XP-E and XR-E are good for throw (better than XP-G).



so my nitecore d10 and p20a2 eagletac are *XR-E* R2

and this new e21 is *XP-E* R2, while the other version of it is xp-g?

and is this e21 *XP-E* R2 designed for throw not flood like the xr-e?

sorry for all the repetitive questions, i honestly am just trying to get it straight in my head, not trolling you, i appreciate the advicelovecpf


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## RedForest UK (Sep 8, 2010)

Sorry, but your P20C2 is likely an XR-E R2, the D10, if SP is likely an XP-E R2 like this is, although if an earlier run could be XR-E I think. This is an XP-E R2, and the other version is an XP-E Q4 but a warmer tint.

All of the above mentioned lights use smaller dies than the XP-G and so are often throw oriented.


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## calipsoii (Sep 8, 2010)

RedForest_UK answered my question.


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## CyberCT (Sep 8, 2010)

CyberCT said:


> Also, why is the runtime of just over 2 hours at 135 lumens on the E21 basically the same runtime as the LD20 R4 that outputs 205 lumens?
> 
> 2 hours 15 mins @ 135 lumens (2 AAs) - E21
> 2 hours 0 mins @ 205 lumens (2 AAs) - LD20 R4


 
I'm still curious why this is. Anyone know?


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## PerttiK (Sep 8, 2010)

My other fenixes look "neutral" in my eyes, barely any blue in them.
Those real neutral whites look yellowishly-brown in my eyes.
With R2 E21, I think the tint lottery is running, but these aren't supposed to be "premium" in any sense.
I would think the neutral E21 could have more carefully selected tints.
I'll try to take some comparison beamshots tomorrow.


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## RedForest UK (Sep 8, 2010)

CyberCT said:


> I'm still curious why this is. Anyone know?



E21 --135lumens for 135mins
LD20-200lumens for 120mins

The simple answer would be that the LD20 R4 is 2 flux bins higher, so that would account for roughly a 20% increase in efficacy. Furthermore the boost circuit will have to reach a lower voltage for the Vf of an XP-G compared to an XP-E so the circuit itself could be a little more efficient.

However I don't think that accounts for it fully and more than likely Fenix's marketing dept decided to be slightly pessimistic on this 'budget' model and slightly optimistic on the 'higher level' model the LD20, in order to show a bit more difference between the two and encourage buyers to spend a little more for more output. I guess only time and selfbuilts runtime graphs will tell..


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## fannin (Sep 8, 2010)

thanks a lot, i will get a grip on these terms, 

the bin term (r2, q5 etc) often confuses me when i don't konw that an emitter type (like xr-e or xp-g) don't often have one with that bin

thanks for the advice


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## Illum (Sep 8, 2010)

excellent....finally their products start to appear as flashlights:thinking:

for awhile I was troubled on what to call them :shrug:


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## chanjyj (Sep 8, 2010)

fannin said:


> so my nitecore d10 and p20a2 eagletac are *XR-E* R2
> 
> and this new e21 is *XP-E* R2, while the other version of it is xp-g?
> 
> ...



No. XR-E and XP-E are generally consider more throwy than XP-G. Then you have your MC-E and SST-50 and SST-90 and P7 and Nichia GS and tons more.

To simplify it for you, from throw to flood: XR-E>XP-E>SST-50>SST-90>XP-G>MC-E and P7
However, throw is not just a function of the emitter. It is more of a function of the reflector rather than the emitter. So don't take this guideline as a bible.

Your final question of whether the E21 is designed for throw? I'd look at the reflector. A large, deep reflector in conjunction with a throwy emitter = thrower and vice versa.
There are, of course, exceptions like the Jetbeam M1X which was a MC-E light designed as a thrower, and the Quark Maelstrom which uses a XP-G.


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## dudu84 (Sep 8, 2010)

Wow! this light looks very "tank" compared to the LD20. Does it come with a forward switch yet it can still tail-stand?


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## PerttiK (Sep 8, 2010)

Can't tailstand, the forward switch sticks out too much.


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## PerttiK (Sep 8, 2010)

Just did some runtime testing with freshly baked eneloops.
Somewhere before 2 hour mark the high level had dropped to the low level, and both levels are the same.
But... 
Judging by the eye the output on high looks quite the same as LD20 Q5 on max.
LD20 draws 1.52A on turbo and E21 1.11A on high.

And by accident I found out that an eneloop can supply 10A atleast for a few seconds...


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## RedForest UK (Sep 8, 2010)

You could always do a ceiling bounce test to measure output a bit more accurately between the LD20 and the E21


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## PerttiK (Sep 8, 2010)

First I need to scrounge a lux meter from somewhere, maybe now I have a good excuse to buy one...


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## kramer5150 (Sep 8, 2010)

PerttiK said:


> Just did some runtime testing with freshly baked eneloops.
> Somewhere before 2 hour mark the high level had dropped to the low level, and both levels are the same.
> But...
> Judging by the eye the output on high looks quite the same as LD20 Q5 on max.
> ...



IIRC Eneloops typically measure 2Ah capacity

2Ah / 1.11A =* 1.80 hours*

Looks like a nice light though. I love bezel twist mode selectors


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## PerttiK (Sep 8, 2010)

Can anyone guestimate emitter lumens assuming the driver efficiency is same as other fenixes?


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## kj2 (Sep 11, 2010)

So this is the E21. But at the back of the LED (in blue) stands E20. So can it be that it is a E20 but than with a newer LED? Or is it a over-clocked E20?


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## B0wz3r (Sep 11, 2010)

kj2 said:


> So this is the E21. But at the back of the LED (in blue) stands E20. So can it be that it is a E20 but than with a newer LED? Or is it a over-clocked E20?



That head part looks like it's one of two that make up the head; they probably simply used the same PCB process/manufacturer as the E20 parts but put a new emitter in on a new body. 

Looks very durable, and at this price seems like a good utility/emergency light even if it can't tail stand. I might actually be able to talk my wife into letting me pick up a couple of these as we've been planning on redoing our emergency preparedness supplies...


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## PerttiK (Sep 11, 2010)

So here's a little tint comparison shot, LD10 Q5 on the left and E21 R2 on the right:






Just ordered the neutral version, I'll post a beamshot when it arrives.


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## PerttiK (Sep 15, 2010)

Neutral E21 arrived, added tint comparison to original post.


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## berry580 (Sep 15, 2010)

I personally consider Fenix to be one of the industry leading companies in China, yet they still do dodgy thing like this.
It reminds me of the melamine milk powders. :thumbsdow






B0wz3r said:


> That head part looks like it's one of two that make up the head; they probably simply used the same PCB process/manufacturer as the E20 parts but put a new emitter in on a new body.


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## chanjyj (Sep 15, 2010)

berry580 said:


> I personally consider Fenix to be one of the industry leading companies in China, yet they still do dodgy thing like this.
> It reminds me of the melamine milk powders. :thumbsdow



I personally don't see anything wrong with it.
Having a new emitter in a product is enough to give it a new name. Just like Surefire changing the incandescent G2 to an LED emitter - G2L.


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## jirik_cz (Sep 15, 2010)

berry580 said:


> I personally consider Fenix to be one of the industry leading companies in China, yet they still do dodgy thing like this.
> It reminds me of the melamine milk powders. :thumbsdow



There is nothing wrong with that. E20 was one mode light, E21 has two modes (and has different body, better LED and is overall noticeably brighter than E20). They had to make some changes to the driver and probably just forget to rename it.


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## GunnarGG (Sep 15, 2010)

On the pictures the head on the E21 looks just like the head on the LD25.
Does anybody know if they are exchangeable? And the tailcaps also maybe?


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## Mr Floppy (Sep 16, 2010)

berry580 said:


> I personally consider Fenix to be one of the industry leading companies in China, yet they still do dodgy thing like this.
> It reminds me of the melamine milk powders. :thumbsdow



Right, and that reminds me someone who is purposely being inflammatory. 

It's called re-use. Better than dumping it all and etching a new batch. How you can link the two issues is shameful.


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## PerttiK (Sep 20, 2010)

Today my extremely cheap lux meter arrived.
My highly accurate integrating milk carton gave following results:
E21 R2 cool white - 21700 lux
LD20 Q5 - 19900 lux

Other method involving some heavy diffusing with a piece of white plastic:
E21 R2 - 9400 lux
LD20 Q5 - 8700 lux
QAA 14500 - 12000 lux


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## strinq (Sep 20, 2010)

Wow...looks like Fenix built this one tough. 
Not surprisingly as they seem to market it as a rugged outdoor light. 
Just one little thing that would have made me pull the trigger, a low low like the eagletacs. A quick tighten-loosen twist to access that would be ideal like the eagletacs again.


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## PerttiK (Sep 20, 2010)

Tested neutral E21 for output, methods are same as earlier so they're directly comparable:
19220 / 8440 lux


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## CyberCT (Sep 20, 2010)

So it seems the neutral tint lights don't put out as much light as the whiter / bluer tint counterparts.

Maybe I'll wait for a non-neutral white tint LD40


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## GunnarGG (Sep 20, 2010)

CyberCT said:


> So it seems the neutral tint lights don't put out as much light as the whiter / bluer tint counterparts.
> 
> Maybe I'll wait for a non-neutral white tint LD40


 

I don't think the LD40 will come in cool white. It will only be neutral like LD25 and TK20. It is only with E21 you have the choice.

The difference in output isn't that big and the neutral white is much nicer IMO, I know others think different.

So, it's a matter of preference but don't let the lower output stop you if you prefer neutral tint.


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## Danegre (Sep 23, 2010)

PerttiK said:


> Update, added tint comparison.
> Here's tint comparison with E21 premium R2, TK12 R2, E21 neutral Q4:


Is that in order from Left to Right? If so than the one of the left is the E21 and NOT the Neutral white? The NW looks yellow.


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## PerttiK (Sep 23, 2010)

Yes they are in order from left to right.
And yes the neutral looks quite yellow in this picture but IRL to my eye the cool white E21 looks more blue and the neutral a bit less yellow.
I'll add some outdoor beamshots some day soon.


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## Danegre (Sep 23, 2010)

PerttiK said:


> Yes they are in order from left to right.
> And yes the neutral looks quite yellow in this picture but IRL to my eye the cool white E21 looks more blue and the neutral a bit less yellow.
> I'll add some outdoor beamshots some day soon.



Thanks! I am kind of excited. I wanted the E20 for over a year, and now that the E21 is coming out I want it instead. Hopefully it's worth it. I hope it shows up on amazon, so its free shipping and no tax. I cant wait for some outside pictures to show up! 

Thanks!


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## PerttiK (Sep 24, 2010)

Outdoor beamshots added.
I had quite hard time finding a place where some light wouldn't shine from some direction.
When I first turned on the neutral version after jumping out of my car, I had to double check that the light I was using, was actually the neutral one.
The tint looks nothing like it does in front of a white wall, outdoors it looks like it belongs there, and it does.


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## Black Rose (Sep 24, 2010)

Thanks for those outdoor shots.

Just found my next light (neutral).


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## Lucciola (Sep 24, 2010)

For me the spectacular point about the E21 is this:


Basically you get quite the same performance as with the old TK20 with slight improvements:

more practical beam
slightly increased runtime
So what's so spectacular? Look at the pricecut against the TK20, man! oo: How often do you find a new model equal or better than the old model and becoming *less* expensive, rather than more expensive? I mean, we're not really talking about peanuts here, that's a serious pricecut :thumbsup:

For the price the E21 is IMHO a real winner and will certainly find its way also to many not-yet but soon-to-be flashaholics.

Lucciola


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## PerttiK (Sep 24, 2010)

I wouldn't mind paying few bucks more if the E21 came with a holster or a sturdy clip attached with screws.


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## Danegre (Sep 25, 2010)

PerttiK said:


> I wouldn't mind paying few bucks more if the E21 came with a holster or a sturdy clip attached with screws.



Yeah I'd rather have a holster. 

Thanks for posting the outdoor shots. After checking them out, I am just going to buy the non NW, The NW does indeed look yellow and I wont buy it.


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## GunnarGG (Sep 25, 2010)

Danegre said:


> Yeah I'd rather have a holster.
> 
> Thanks for posting the outdoor shots. After checking them out, I am just going to buy the non NW, The NW does indeed look yellow and I wont buy it.


 
This thing about tint is difficult – at least when you try to get a photo of it.

When you set the WB (whitebalance) on your camera to daylight the cool white will look pretty good and the neutral white will look to warm and a warm white or incandescent will look very warm. If you set WB at “tungsten” the incandescent will look good but neutral white will look cool and the cool white will look ugly blue. If you set WB at “AUTO” at least in my camera they all look pretty good if I shoot one light at a time.

Our eyes adjust our “whitebalance” all the time so we can’t really look at a picture and say “that’s how it look”

If I’m in my car and it’s daytime with sun or cloudy weather my eyes are set at the rather cool ambient light. If I then turn on my Streamlight polytac LED that has a pretty good cool tint (I think) to look at something on the floor in the car it looks “pure white”. If I turn on my Quark Mini123 NW it looks a little warm.

If I am instead indoors in the evening with bulbs lit or outdoors with streetlights my eyes are set at the warmer ambient light. Then my neutral white lights actually looks a little cool at first but I quickly adjust and then consider them pure white while my Polytac looks to cool and blue.

If I’m outdoors and it is pitch dark my eyes adjust only to the flashlight and the Streamlight looks good but my neutral white light feels a little better and more “true”.

I have several neutral white lights (TK20, Incendio V3, SC30w, Mini123NW, P20C2 and LD25) and the LD25 is the one with coolest tint. It’s still neutral and if I don’t use them at the same time it’s hard to say they are very different.

Then we also have our own preferences. As seen here on CPF some people say cool white is nice and neutreal white is ugly, some people say the opposite. If you haven’t yet you must try a neutral white light and decide if you like it or not. Then maybe you can compare different neutral tints (or different cool tints) to each other on photos but comparing cool and neutral doesn’t really work.

Take a look at this thread.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/275266
I posted some beamshots with different WB in post #26.

As I said, this is how I see it, others see it different. You just got to figure out how you see it yourself but be careful when looking at photos, it’s not exactly the truth.


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## Dioni (Sep 25, 2010)

I'm interested on this ligh. Thanks for the pics! :thumbsup:


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## B0wz3r (Sep 26, 2010)

Danegre said:


> Yeah I'd rather have a holster.
> 
> Thanks for posting the outdoor shots. After checking them out, I am just going to buy the non NW, The NW does indeed look yellow and I wont buy it.



As Gunnar noted, you're not going to be able to discern for certain what the true tint of a light is from beamshots you see here. Two different cameras will give different tones to the same subject taken at exactly the same time. Even two of exactly the same camera will give different pictures if they're not set up the same way.

I recently bought a Zebralight SC50w+ but was concerned because the beamshots here looked warmer than what I prefer in a light. However, I was happily surprised to see that the tint was much more neutral than from what I saw in the pictures here. As you read through the threads, you'll see a common comment about tint is that they are slightly different than how it looks in the pictures. If you're interested in a light, buy it and see it for yourself; at worst you can send it back and your out $5 for the return postage. Small price to pay IMO.


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## PerttiK (Sep 26, 2010)

Added two more beamshots with auto white balance, this time the neutral looks more realistic.


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## GunnarGG (Sep 26, 2010)

PerttiK,
Thanks for your nice pictures, both of the light and the beamshots.
As you said, those two pictures with WB set to AUTO better shows what it looks like in real life.


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## joekaveh (Sep 26, 2010)

Thanks for the pics/mini review!


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## Danegre (Sep 27, 2010)

Thanks for the added pictures


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## Black Rose (Sep 27, 2010)

PerttiK said:


> Added two more beamshots with auto white balance, this time the neutral looks more realistic.


Thanks for those updated photos.

I ordered a neutral E21 this morning.


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## whitetc06 (Sep 27, 2010)

Black Rose said:


> Thanks for those updated photos.
> 
> I ordered a neutral E21 this morning.



Same here :wave: According to fenix neutral white LED's are suppose to render objects with better detail, we shall see..


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## Danegre (Sep 30, 2010)

Alright so I want to order the Fenix E21, Neutral-White TONIGHT. Although I have a question. Compared to the E20 how does the E21 Neutral, come out better? 

I am asking because from 4sevens even with the coupon after shipping it comes to 39.91total. 

Amazon has the E20 for 31$ with free shipping and NO tax. 

with the E20 you get 109Lm for a 3.3-hour runtime

vs 

E21NW is like what 135lm with a 2hr 15min runtime. 

Is that the only difference? is the brightness? 

Sorry I am just confused and want to make the BEST purchase. for ordering a fenix light for the first time


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## whitetc06 (Sep 30, 2010)

Depends, what are you looking for.. Lumens, Run Time, Throw,Cool white or Neutral color.

The difference between the two besides run time and lumens is that the E20 uses a Cool White 7090 XR-E Led & the E21 has a XP-E Q4 (Neutral White)

* If you want more lumens you can go with the regular E21 @150 lumens with Cool white.





Danegre said:


> Alright so I want to order the Fenix E21, Neutral-White TONIGHT. Although I have a question. Compared to the E20 how does the E21 Neutral, come out better?
> 
> I am asking because from 4sevens even with the coupon after shipping it comes to 39.91total.
> 
> ...


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## Black Rose (Sep 30, 2010)

Danegre said:


> I am asking because from 4sevens even with the coupon after shipping it comes to 39.91total.


4Sevens has free shipping, unless you've purchased insurance.

I ordered a NW E21 from 4Sevens earlier this week and it was just under $35.00 with coupon.

The E21 gives your two modes instead of 1 mode on the E20, so a bit more flexible.


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## PerttiK (Oct 1, 2010)

The neutral E21 doesn't fall far from LD20 Q5 in terms of output ,180 lumens for LD20.
Cool white E21 seems to have better output than LD20 Q5.


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## Danegre (Oct 1, 2010)

Black Rose said:


> 4Sevens has free shipping, unless you've purchased insurance.
> 
> I ordered a NW E21 from 4Sevens earlier this week and it was just under $35.00 with coupon.
> 
> The E21 gives your two modes instead of 1 mode on the E20, so a bit more flexible.


 
Oooh, I kept selecting the $5 thinking that's just how they shipped. 

Thanks!!

Also what is the difference between the 

CREE XP -E R2

and CREE XP-E Q4 which is better? or doesnt it matter?


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## SuLyMaN (Oct 1, 2010)

Is "CREE XP-E R2 LED" the cool white e21 model?


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## Danegre (Oct 1, 2010)

SuLyMaN said:


> Is "CREE XP-E R2 LED" the cool white e21 model?


 
It's the 150lm model. I guess the "regular" one and not the neutral white one


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## PerttiK (Oct 1, 2010)

E21 X-PE R2 is the cool white, and E21 X-PE Q4 is the neutral white,


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## candle lamp (Oct 2, 2010)

My E21 is Cree XP-E (Q4) Neutral White.
High mode is 135 Lumens and, low mode 48 lumens.






.
.
The following pictures show beam shots of fenix E21 & 4 sevens quark AA2.
- Fenix E21 (XP-E Q4, SMO reflector), 4 Sevens Quark AA2 (XP-G R4, OP reflector)
- Battery : Full charged Eneloop AA 1.2V (2000mAh) Ni-MH rechargeable cell
- Distance : 0.5 meter from a white door
- Brightness : E21 - High mode(135 Lumens), Quark AA2 - High mode(109 OTF Lumens)
- On the left E21(about 4,000K), the right AA2(about 4300~4500K)





- ISO 200, 1/125 Sec, F3.2
.
.




- ISO 200, 1/500 Sec, F3.2

The two lights come equipped with the both neutral white LED. But E21 shows more yellow than quark AA2.


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## B0wz3r (Oct 2, 2010)

Thanks for those beamshots!  I've been wondering what the tint and beam profile looks like; glad to see there's no apparent rings in it. I'm wondering how they got such an even beam with the smooth reflector. I'm going to move these to the top of my list for bugbout bag preparations.


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## SuLyMaN (Oct 2, 2010)

I think I messed up guys....I bought the cool white led instead of the neutral white...Will outdoor use of the fenix e21 with cool white led be really bad or should it be usable?

Flashlight not yet with me. So I cant test


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## PerttiK (Oct 2, 2010)

X-PE works quite well with smooth reflector.
And the cool white doesn't look so cool when it's the only light source around.


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## candle lamp (Oct 2, 2010)

B0wz3r said:


> Thanks for those beamshots!  I've been wondering what the tint and beam profile looks like; glad to see there's no apparent rings in it. I'm wondering how they got such an even beam with the smooth reflector. I'm going to move these to the top of my list for bugbout bag preparations.


 
Hi B0wz3r, 
The beam profile looks like combination of the smooth reflector and orange peel reflector. :shrug: I like it.
The user manual says that E21 uses high brightness LED with high efficiency reflector to deliver an outstanding balance between flood beam and focus beam.


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## B0wz3r (Oct 2, 2010)

candle lamp said:


> Hi B0wz3r,
> The beam profile looks like combination of the smooth reflector and orange peel reflector. :shrug: I like it.
> The user manual says that E21 uses high brightness LED with high efficiency reflector to deliver an outstanding balance between flood beam and focus beam.



From your beamshot, I'd certainly say they hit the mark with that... I'm very fond of that beam profile; narrower overall cone of light so the spill area is brighter as a result. NiteCore's EDC lights have a very similar pattern from what I've seen. I'm seriously thinking about cracking the budget a little bit and buying a couple of E21's for the bugout bags I'm putting together for my family's emergency preparedness supplies. 

@suly; Your light should be fine outdoors, I doubt you'll really notice anything unless you're specifically comparing it to another light with a warmer (neutral) tint. 

I personally find the so called neutral tints to give me better depth perception outdoors; indoors it's not such a big deal. A lot of it is just preference though; you'll find plenty of CPFers who prefer cool tints to neutral ones. Try lights with both, and see which you prefer.


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## whitetc06 (Oct 3, 2010)

I received my e21 Neutral White last week and like it a lot. Anyways does anyone have shots comparing the E21 NW and the Ld25 or has experience with the two ? I want a tad less throw and a little more flood.


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## sol-leks (Oct 3, 2010)

candle lamp,

thanks for the beamshots!

The Fenix E21 looks a bit warmer than I like but that quark 4300-4500k looks very nice. Is that the standard quark tint or is that a neutral limited run? Thanks


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## GunnarGG (Oct 3, 2010)

whitetc06 said:


> Anyways does anyone have shots comparing the E21 NW and the Ld25 or has experience with the two ?


 
Look at this page. You can find both E21 NW and LD25

http://fonarik.com/test/?model=21&scene=2&mode=0


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## chenko (Oct 3, 2010)

I originally looked for a neutral white flashlight with good throw and got the Eagletac P20A2 mk1. Now, after may months, I have to admit I'm so pissed with its dumb UI (too easy to trigger the damn strobe) that I'm considering this E21 as an upgrade. Would it be senseless? I can't make my mind. :duh2:


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## TMedina (Oct 4, 2010)

I just picked up the E21 as my x2 AA backup - I ended up giving away my TK20 to friends.

So far, I like it - and the UI is stupid-simple.

-Trevor


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## candle lamp (Oct 4, 2010)

sol-leks said:


> candle lamp,
> 
> thanks for the beamshots!
> 
> The Fenix E21 looks a bit warmer than I like but that quark 4300-4500k looks very nice. Is that the standard quark tint or is that a neutral limited run? Thanks


 
Hi sol-leks,
It's my pleasure.
It is a limited run neutral white AA2.
Thanks too.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Oct 4, 2010)

Occasionally I've seen someone remark that he carries with him every day a 2xAA flashlight such as a Quark.

At ~ 6.5" x 1.0" and ~ 3.2oz _[w/o batteries]_, does anyone think the E21 could be comfortably enough carried in the front pocket of a pair of jeans on a daily basis ?


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## MojaveMoon07 (Oct 4, 2010)

The SureFire F04 diffuser fits the JetBeam I; so I wonder if it'd fit the E21.

The diameter of the E21 _[25.4mm = 1"]_ is nearly identical to the diameter of the JetBeam I _[25mm = 0.98"]_

"_The Versatile F04 Diffuser: what lights will it fit?_"
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/274290


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## SuLyMaN (Oct 4, 2010)

Anyone has a clue whether the "Headlight" Diffuser Lens (https://www.fenix-store.com/product_info.php?products_id=1775) or the Fenix L & P Series Lantern Diffuser (http://www.fenixtorch.co.uk/accessories/fenix_lantern_diffuser.html) will fit the e21?

And in the event both works on the e21, which one would be better to use as a lantern?


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## whitetc06 (Oct 5, 2010)

GunnarGG said:


> Look at this page. You can find both E21 NW and LD25
> 
> http://fonarik.com/test/?model=21&scene=2&mode=0





Thanks GunnarGG.. after comparing and reading cpf seems like the LD25 has a slight donut due to the xp-g on a smooth reflector.

guess i'll order another e21 NW, one for each hand.:ironic:


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## GunnarGG (Oct 5, 2010)

whitetc06 said:


> ...seems like the LD25 has a slight donut due to the xp-g on a smooth reflector.


 
I posted some beamshots incl LD25 here

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/295933


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## recDNA (Oct 5, 2010)

I love my E20. First quality flashlight I ever bought. I don't need an E21 so I have no reason to purchase one but it fills a need at the lower priced, longer runtime 2 X AA niche.

I have Surefires and Fenixes and I honestly don't notice the huge quality differences many speak of. I think they're both great. Never had either brand fail me.


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## Danegre (Oct 6, 2010)

How long after I order it should it ship and get to my area? PA? I'll order it in a little bit.


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## ktnguyen (Oct 6, 2010)

Why the E21 costs $10 less than the L2T V2. ?


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## Danegre (Oct 9, 2010)

I just got my E21 however I thought you could change it from spot to flood??


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## TMedina (Oct 9, 2010)

Danegre said:


> I just got my E21 however I thought you could change it from spot to flood??



Nope - the E20 could, although it wasn't a huge shift in beam profile.

-Trevor


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## Danegre (Oct 9, 2010)

TMedina said:


> Nope - the E20 could, although it wasn't a huge shift in beam profile.
> 
> -Trevor



Ahh ok. Well it IS a nice light though. I like it


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## Batang Regla (Oct 9, 2010)

This E21 makes me think again what to buy as my first flashlight. 

After reading sefbuilt review between Fenix LD20 vs LD10 (both r4) i want to buy the LD10.

But if E21 vs LD10 r4 what do i choose?


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## PerttiK (Oct 9, 2010)

Depends on what you need.
LD10 is nice for pocket carry, E21 is more like a general usage light.
LD10 gives you 30 hours on lowest low, and E21 gives you 11 hours of light that is bright enough for most uses.
And E21 has option for neutral white wich looks nice outdoors.


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## Batang Regla (Oct 9, 2010)

^
Is E21 a thrower? 

For the price difference is the specs far off?


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## PerttiK (Oct 9, 2010)

Compared to LD10 and LD20 (R4), E21 might throw better.
For E21 the lumens seem to be somewhat underrated, for R2 version I got better readings than for LD20 Q5.
But the LD series have more modes and better runtimes because of the lower modes, E21 has simpler operation and only two modes.


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## B0wz3r (Oct 9, 2010)

Batang Regla said:


> This E21 makes me think again what to buy as my first flashlight.
> 
> After reading sefbuilt review between Fenix LD20 vs LD10 (both r4) i want to buy the LD10.
> 
> But if E21 vs LD10 r4 what do i choose?



Check this thread: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/296319


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## righttoown (Oct 9, 2010)

I'm impressed with mine for an AA light.


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## Batang Regla (Oct 9, 2010)

Thanks you PerttiK and B0wz3r


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## igoman (May 2, 2011)

I am also posting the question here because I dont know if this is normal for Fenix E21.

I am just testing my Fenix E21 (on 48 lumens) with eneloops in it. After 8 hours the brightness dropped considerably (no more turbo mode and looks like 3 lumens now). Fenix E21 is suppose to go for 11 hours on 48 lumens. I have a cheap charger called SBS power box A480. Could this be the problem?
Are the original eneloop chargers better? I am looking this Sanyo Eneloop MQR06 charger (http://www.eneloop.info/products/cha...ith-mqr06.html). What if I insert lets say half charged batteries in the charger, will the charger first empty the batteries and them charge them again? I heard its not healthy for the batteries to charge them if they are not completely empty, is this also true for eneloops?


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## radu1976 (May 2, 2011)

igoman said:


> I am also posting the question here because I dont know if this is normal for Fenix E21.
> 
> I am just testing my Fenix E21 (on 48 lumens) with eneloops in it. After 8 hours the brightness dropped considerably (no more turbo mode and looks like 3 lumens now). Fenix E21 is suppose to go for 11 hours on 48 lumens. I have a cheap charger called SBS power box A480. Could this be the problem?
> Are the original eneloop chargers better? I am looking this Sanyo Eneloop MQR06 charger (http://www.eneloop.info/products/cha...ith-mqr06.html). What if I insert lets say half charged batteries in the charger, will the charger first empty the batteries and them charge them again? I heard its not healthy for the batteries to charge them if they are not completely empty, is this also true for eneloops?


 
Have you also tried it on MAX ? Does it last at least 2hrs - as stated - at maximum output , constant regulation ? Usually the FENIX lights quite respect their stated runtime - and output -


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## igoman (May 3, 2011)

> Usually the FENIX lights quite respect their stated runtime - and output -



Yes, that is why I am suspecting the charger might be the problem.


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## igoman (May 3, 2011)

I think Lanque from another thread is right:


> Hi igoman,
> 
> From Fenix's website on the E21 : http://www.fenixlight.com/viewproduct.asp?id=124 Runtime = 11 hrs mode A
> 
> ...


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## silentlurker (Sep 6, 2011)

Hey, has anyone tried to use lithium primaries in the E21? Wondering if it will work...


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## PerttiK (Sep 7, 2011)

Lithiums work but low mode isn't much lower than high with them, might go to normal once voltage drops.


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