# DIY plans for a sturdy wooden workbench?



## PEU (May 16, 2007)

I want to make a sturdy workbench for a couple of machines I purchased, each one is around 100kg (220lb), Im googling for plans but didnt found any suitable one. I want to make a large table (3m wide x 0.8m side x 0.8 tall) but I can scale other size plans.

any idea? :thanks:


Pablo


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## will (May 16, 2007)

What do you want to make it out of ? Do you have access to woodworking tools?


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## matrixshaman (May 16, 2007)

If they have 2"x4" (actual is 1.5" x 3.5") or 2x6 lumber there that is usually the cheapest - especially 2x4 studs and those with some cross bracing can be used as uprights for a very strong bench. The top could be plywood if they have some about 1.5" thick which should be strong enough for that weight. Stay away from pressed fibreboard or things that loose their strength if they get wet.


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## PEU (May 16, 2007)

I want to make it in wood, probably covering it with a water/heat resistant surface. I can order cut-to-size from a local shop, then I have a drill press and a portable drill.

I purchased these machines:
http://www.syil.com.cn/product_h4.asp
http://www.syil.com.cn/product_c6.asp

My idea is putting the manual lathe, the drill press and these two machines in the same long table.

I did this table a couple of years ago, but the new machines will be heavier, and this one is not rigid enough, I always delay some crossbracing for it, maybe this improves rigidity:














(took this pictures today after a huge cleaning session)


Pablo


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## will (May 16, 2007)

I made mine using a torsion box for the top and sides. This thing is rock solid, perfectly flat and was fun to make. I made the parts using a radial arm saw. The torsion box will give you a great deal of strength with out the weight of solid wood. 

there are a few pictures in this months edition of Woodworkers Journal

www.woodworkersjournal.com. 

you can search on torsion box to get a good idea of what is involved. 

Stay away from MDF - medium density fiberboard or flakeboard. They soak up moisture and will sag after a period of time. 

I would try to keep the machines spread out, leave enough room to put tools, parts or whatever down on the area between the equipment. 

for the top = heat and waterproof - you are probably looking at some kind of metal top. If you just want waterproof - then some king of formica or laminate top, they are not heat proof. 

The tools are really great = wow = I am jealous....


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## matrixshaman (May 16, 2007)

PEU - the table you pictured above should be a good design but maybe just add some diagonal bracing between the legs.


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## will (May 16, 2007)

matrixshaman said:


> PEU - the table you pictured above should be a good design but maybe just add some diagonal bracing between the legs.



You could make that a very loose torsion box by putting a piece of 1/4 inch plywood on the bottom ( of the top ) Use wood glue to attach all the pieces of the top. The torsion box gets it strength from something called shear stress on the glue lines between the skin and the core.


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## PEU (May 16, 2007)

Found this site: http://plansnow.com/workbenchplans.html 

I will take some ideas from these photos for sure  Maybe I end purchasing one as my way of saying thanks 

EDIT: Here are some freebies: http://www.plansnow.com/cmpdn001.html

Pablo


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## PEU (May 16, 2007)

Found a nice article with detailed plans for a strong workbench (this link expires if not used for 30 days)

What I found interesting about it is the minimum amount of tools required to make it. I will make two of these and join them together.


Pablo


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## cmacclel (May 17, 2007)

Thanks for the link thats a sweet bench!

Mac


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## missionaryman (May 17, 2007)

if you look in the show your workbench thread you'll see the benches I make, these use that 30mm FJ/LAM Merbau top suspended at 6 points on 6x2 hardwood beams with 8x2 hardwood stiles on 4x4 hardwood legs, I weigh 107kgs and stand on them with some of my heavier tools to level the tops out - no worries. my design could easily withstand 200kg loads with no vibration.
Have a look at the pics and if you think it will work PM me for details.


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## Bandgap (May 18, 2007)

I know this might not be popular with the workbench purists, but I used a thick chipboard kitchen work top for my bench top. 

The great thing is, some get cosmetically damaged before they are sold, the kitchen installers can't use them, and therefore some suppliers sell these off for a song as otherwise they have to dump them. 

So I got a huge thick (3m x 50mm x 600mm) one with a heat proof(ish) surface and one big scratch for £10 ($20). 

I put this on a frame of 2x4 (50x100mm) pine wall studding. 

Advice from my dad - a retired wood worker - got me routing lots of halving joints.
- the argument here is that the halving joints locate everything and allow the bench to be screwed together and never shift. 
The alternative is simple lap joints and bolts, but the thing can become distorted under prolonged hammering (I have a blacksmith in the family). 

One thing I learned the hard way: Buy the wood just before you make the bench. If you leave it hanging around without being built, it will warp. 

I use it for my mini lathe, hand metal working and electronics (ex EE). 
As I don't saw wood on it, I made mine a bit taller than usual - about 1m (39in.) for less back bending when working 

Steve


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## will (May 18, 2007)

I have my shop set up in my basement. I live in New York, Long Island to be a little more specific. My basement does not get wet but it does get damp at times. I do some veneering work every now and then. I had some left over laminate covered particle board that I cut into 2 x 2 foot squares to use as boards for a press. I had them for about 2 years or so before the unsealed edges absorbed just enough moisture in the air and started to expand. I cut back the edges so the were flat, but smaller now. One day I happened to spill some water on the floor where I had just stood the boards on their edges. They sucked up the water like a sponge. That was the end of them. I do not use anything like that any more. 

In some environments particle board is a good choice, just not where there is the possibility of exposure to moisture.


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## PEU (May 18, 2007)

Purchased the wood to make two of these workbenches, they will be ready on monday cut to my specifications, they work with 1mm tolerances.

Also purchased this machine: http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide/Product-Details.aspx?ProductID=6357

Total cost so far:

Wood (cut to size) and #8 2 1/2 screws (90) = $64
Jigsaw, extra blades, and 3/8" x 4" screws (8) = $109 (in USA the machine is probably cheaper  )

If someone is interested I made a purchase/cut list, its in millimeters and adjusted to the sizes available here. Its in spanish, but im sure you will find it easy to understand. Also modelled it in solidworks, Im working on the top part fancy stuff  


Pablo


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## jayhackett03 (May 18, 2007)

wait, you googled workbenches and you didn't find good plans?

Here...
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=Build/Workbench.html




http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/jayhackett03/35380406.gif


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## gadget_lover (May 18, 2007)

Pablo, I have a similar saw from B&D. I hate it. I find it to be fairly inaccurate because of slop in the mechanism that rotates the blade. What really bothers me is the trigger switch. I almost always pull the trigger as I pick it up. It's too large and takes up a large part of the handle. This can be a hazard if the blade is near anything of value.

So be careful, OK?

Daniel


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## PEU (May 18, 2007)

gadget_lover said:


> Pablo, I have a similar saw from B&D. I hate it. I find it to be fairly inaccurate because of slop in the mechanism that rotates the blade. What really bothers me is the trigger switch. I almost always pull the trigger as I pick it up. It's too large and takes up a large part of the handle. This can be a hazard if the blade is near anything of value.
> 
> So be careful, OK?
> 
> Daniel



Yeah, I understand what you mean, I had similar problem with a pro-grade Bosch jigsaw too, I guess you get used to it once you are familiar with the unit. Regarding the rotating head, its a plus I don't plan to use, I tought I may use it in the future.

Pablo


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## will (May 18, 2007)

I have switched to Porter-Cable hand tools over the years, The jig saw I have has a fixed base. I never used the various angle settings on the previous saws I had.


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## Rothrandir (May 20, 2007)

I'm no expert woodworker, but I'd be inclined to use 4x4 lumber for the legs, 2x6 around the top, with 2x6 struts every 16inches or so running front to back.

Adding a shelf down lower will also get you a lot of extra rigidity.

I'm sure that if you start out with a basic box, you'll be be adding all kinds of features as you go along.
My bench started out as 4 legs and a top, and as I was welding it together, I decided to add wheels, levelers/stabilizers, a bottom shelf, drawers, removable top, a backboard, additional top drawers, and power supply...


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## PEU (May 20, 2007)

Rothrandir said:


> I'm no expert woodworker, but I'd be inclined to use 4x4 lumber for the legs, 2x6 around the top, with 2x6 struts every 16inches or so running front to back.
> 
> Adding a shelf down lower will also get you a lot of extra rigidity.
> 
> ...



and on top of that, I also plan to add a parrot cage so I can talk to someone while machining :nana: 


Pablo


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## cmacclel (May 20, 2007)

Rothrandir said:


> I'm no expert woodworker, but I'd be inclined to use 4x4 lumber for the legs, 2x6 around the top, with 2x6 struts every 16inches or so running front to back.
> 
> Adding a shelf down lower will also get you a lot of extra rigidity.
> 
> ...



Pics?

Mac


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## Rothrandir (May 20, 2007)

It's not a very good picture, but it shows most of it...







The top is 30x60

here it is before adding the back and top shelf system.


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## PEU (May 31, 2007)

as for many others, CPF being down made me more productive: 


























Wood was joined with Gorilla glue and then they were screwed together, used more than 100 #6 2.5" wood screws per workbench. This glue is awesome, you apply a super fine layer with a spatula, damp the other piece of wood and clamp, after a couple of hours it goes 4x its initial volume and is superstrong.
Note on the gorilla glue: use gloves, don't be dumb like me, the stuff took about 5 days to go off my hands... and its black when dry... :shakehead 

I made two workbenches. I still need to add the tabletops. They feel very solid. Used 3/8" x 5" bolts two flat washers and a split washer at every joint (8 per table)


Pablo


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## will (May 31, 2007)

Gorilla glue - very strong - and it expands as it gets dry. You can use paint thinner to clean off your hands before it dries. Then you don't get the black fingers. Also - it doesn't store very well after the bottle is opened. 

I keep a spray bottle of water and mist the parts prior to assembly.

Just a quick note on using glue - The weakest glued joint is the end grain.


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