# My initial impressions of the Xeray 50Watt.



## windstrings (Oct 12, 2006)

I recieved mine today.. it actually surprised me and got here sooner than I expected.
When I opened the box, I was also surprised at the nice aluminum box provided with had foam padding inside with slots already provided. I knew I was getting one, but not this nice.

The Box has a handle and latches to attach the provided strap if wanted.
or you can use the strap on the light.

When I pulled out the light, I expected it to be much heavier considering how it looked and how it was built.
The body is a composite plastic fiber of some sort that looks like metal.. thats prob what threw me.
The head is bold black anodized aluminum the best I can tell with a reflector glass that looked like it wasn't even there it was so clear.

The unit comes without the battery attached so I took the 6 screws off the bottom and hooked up the wire.

I couldn't wait to go outside once it got dark to test it out.
The only other light I have used to compare it to is the X990.

when I turned it on, it took about 20 seconds to get to full brightness.
I think the X990 did faster, but since the X990 didn't get near as bright, I think it was the same. "if that makes sense".

If your not totally impressed my the looks and the make, when you turn it on, you will become a true believer!

This thing is a sinkin beast! Its bright!... Really Damn bright!
I can't imagine ever needing to go to 75 watts, even though I may change my mind, this thing shines all the way to the end of my block and looks like it would render someone blind even at that distance.

If you were to shine it on your neighbors house at night from a distance of 100 yards, it would surely light every room in thier house!
I don't recommend it.. the poor people would probrably think a UFO landed in their backyard!

The beam focused down is really really nice.. I like it...very smooth.. the very center is even brighter than the main beam.

Its true, you couldn't shine it at an oncoming car even 200 yards away, you would flat blind them and probrably make them run right in the ditch!

I would love to see a BB next to this.. I can't imagine anything could be brighter!.. wow!.....

At this point, I'm sold on having 95 min of runtime... thats awesome!

The air is totally clear tonight and low humidity at my house as follows:
Humidity 58%
Dewpoint 30 in.
Heat index 57F

And when I shine this in the air.. its just like the pictures in the beamshots you've seen on the forum.. they are not lying!.... it looks like a light cannon beaming through the air!


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## XeRay (Oct 12, 2006)

windstrings said:


> The unit comes without the battery attached so I took the 6 screws off the bottom and hooked up the wire.


 
There are 2 connections to make on the battery pack large wires to white connector on circuit board and the black connector coming from the battery pack as well. Remove the battery pack from the light and you will see them if you have not already. The newer instructions should have covered this. Also the rubber feet on the battery pack should go up against the metal base cover to prevent contact between the battery pack and the metal heatsink bottom cover.


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## LED61 (Oct 13, 2006)

*Re: My initial impressions of the Xray 50Watt.*

I can't wait to get mine. The nice thing about the 50 watt is you'll have longer runtime. Plus, since the 35 watt bulb is being overdriven a bit, after about 50 hours of use you'll probably have 90% of the current 5300 lumens. You can then replace the bulb with a factory new Phillips available for about $50 or less, whereas the 50 watt DL50 would cost much more to replace.


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## windstrings (Oct 13, 2006)

XeRay said:


> There are 2 connections to make on the battery pack large wires to white connector on circuit board and the black connector coming from the battery pack as well. Remove the battery pack from the light and you will see them if you have not already. The newer instructions should have covered this. Also the rubber feet on the battery pack should go up against the metal base cover to prevent contact between the battery pack and the metal heatsink bottom cover.



*BELOW IS MY POST "EDITED" AFTER TALKING TO DAN ON THE PHONE
*Many of the questions are already understood by the oldtimers as they were discussed with the last GB.
I will interject his responses to save him the trouble..if I botch it too much, he can interject...

I think I have the old instructions... I looked over and over and could not find reference to the connector coming off the battery that only had two wires "red and yellow" I assume the connect to the other two wires that are double black, but I didnt' connect them since it wasn't mentioned in the instructions. *The light will run without them hooked up, but your saftey precautions will be disabled.
Thats correct, the red and yellow from the battery connect to the double black coming from the circuit board.
The old instructions do not mention this since it is a function they didn't have on those previous lights.

*
What do they do? *The LiIon battery is automatically protected against shorts etc, but the circuit board also has its own protection... this allows that function to sense the battery and report to the readout on the top of the light.

*I also don't see a reference as to what function the reset serves and what its for and when I am to use it?.. I'm sure you've addressed this somewhere in the forums.
I see its not on your pics here. http://www.aerovisions.com/hid/hid_searchlights.html
so it must have been an options that was temporarily removed or something? *Those pics are of the older lights.

**The Reset is a function of the circuit board.. if it senses a fault, it will alert you and give you the opportunity to reset. If the cause of the fault has not been removed, it will alert again.
This could be anything from incorrect voltages being fed to the board to heat issues etc.*
*If the green light on the battery check indicator is flashing rather than solid then it is warning you of a problem which is indicated by how many times it blinks. The problems are as follows:*

*1 time – Li-ion battery recharge: means the battery is empty and needs to be charged. *

*2 times – Li-ion battery false: means the battery is damaged, it could be shorted or the internal fuse is opened*

*3 times – HID ballast/bulb false: means the HID ballast or the HID bulb is damaged*

*4 times – Input power voltage is over low.(false): means the external power source (battery or power supply) is too low (less than 10.8 volts)*

*5 times – Input power voltage is over high. (false): means the external power source (battery or power supply) is too high (higher than 30 volts)*


I also didn't see the reference you made to the battery feet being against the metal.. thanks, that makes sense. It just says to replace the battery the same way the other one came out. 

If you could send me the new instructions, that would be nice for safe keeping unless you make it available for download. *Email sent*


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## windstrings (Oct 13, 2006)

LED61 said:


> I can't wait to get mine. The nice thing about the 50 watt is you'll have longer runtime. Plus, since the 35 watt bulb is being overdriven a bit, after about 50 hours of use you'll probably have 90% of the current 5300 lumens. You can then replace the bulb with a factory new Phillips available for about $50 or less, whereas the 50 watt DL50 would cost much more to replace.



I don't know if yours had shipped or not yet.. but the DL-50 is available now if you want to get one instead of the 35 watt GE.. I do indeed like the pattern it throws "although i've never had a GE" and it will be one less thing to buy if you do upgrade.
It cost me another 70.00 to get it instead of the GE.

If you study the beamshots carefully, it seems to give a bigger ground pattern for distance, whereas the GE has bigger wide angle pattern.
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=105229

If you want the new instructions I can email them to you.. I don't know how to post them.


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## LuxLuthor (Oct 13, 2006)

*Re: My initial impressions of the Xray 50Watt.*

Nice details. I kind of wish I had the newer 50W circuitboard features, but I have had the pleasure of using this light for the last 9 months...and at a much cheaper price...so I'm happy!


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## windstrings (Oct 13, 2006)

LuxLuthor said:


> Nice details. I kind of wish I had the newer 50W circuitboard features, but I have had the pleasure of using this light for the last 9 months...and at a much cheaper price...so I'm happy!



Yes indeed.. the curse of buying anything electronically technical.
I'm sure mine will be outdated soon too.. they are always improving and updating.

But on the other hand, as long as they try the best they can at making it upgradable to the newer stuff... we are still in good position.

I understand the main difference in the circuit board is the low drain on the battery while all is hooked up. According to the math, I think I was told 30 months before depletion. Almost a factor of 10 compared the old one. Since LiIon does not develope memory.. its no big deal as long as you take precautions and disconnect for long storages or throw it on charger "or leave it" on a regular basis.

I'm not sure why the circuit even needs to be activated while the light is off.. othewise you could simply tie the battery in with the on/off switch so that all is disconnected while off?
It may have to do with whether you want battery check function and error detection abilities while the unit is turned off.. I'm not sure.


The second thing I thought of for the older units is the install a little on/off switch tied to the battery. It would need to be one that wouldn't easy be bumped.
And of course you would need to have the switch on for charging!

Of course there is also the option of installing another circuit board, but I think the older DC charger for sure is not compatible with the new board, I'm not sure about the AC.

I'm sure Dan could suggest the best fix is you didn't want to mess with disconnecting the battery for intermediate storage times.
I would think just leaving it on the charger would be the easiest option for intermittent use.


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## lasercrazy (Oct 13, 2006)

*Re: My initial impressions of the Xray 50Watt.*

Glad you like your new Xeray.  Just out of curiosity is it really that hard to add the e in Xeray?


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## LuxLuthor (Oct 13, 2006)

*Re: My initial impressions of the Xray 50Watt.*



lasercrazy said:


> Just out of curiosity is it really that hard to add the e in Xeray?



I thought the same thing...but that assumes he notices it is even missing!!! 

:lolsign:


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## BVH (Oct 13, 2006)

*Re: My initial impressions of the Xray 50Watt.*

Its probably helpful to know that its pronounced "ZeeRay". This might help people to remember to use the X"e"ray.


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## windstrings (Oct 13, 2006)

Ok.. Ok... I'm slow, but I can take a hint... mine's fixed..


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## Lips (Oct 13, 2006)

Got my used Zeeray into today. Very pleased  



I used to call it the X"e"ray a while back also :laughing:


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## frogs3 (Oct 14, 2006)

*Re: Initial impressions of the Xeray 50Watt.*

Dear Flashaholics,

It is fascinating to read that Windstrings went through the same emotional response I experienced when I first turned on my 75wBB XeRay. It does take longer than the X990 to reach full brightness but the wait is worth it. Anyone with these units knows what I have been emphasizing about being VERY careful particularly in suburban areas not to shine the center of the beam into a driver's face or a neighbor's window, for different reasons.

I don't know where Windstrings lives, but I am guessing it is not too close to Philadelphia, PA, otherwise we could do side-by-side beamshots.

Since I got mine on the CPF Trading Post, the battery and I assume (hope) other connections were already made. I also did not receive any instruction sheet in the box. I will call Dan Monday to have one sent, as that seems like a good insurance policy if anything goes awry.

BTW, there have been comments that these lights get very hot on the bottom with continued use. In my experience, running the unit for up to 40 minutes in moderate weather has not caused the metal bottom to become more than barely warmer than body temperature to the touch, and certainly not what I would call hot. Let's see what the newest users say about this.

I hope those of you who have just received your units remain as pleased as I have, and will use them to good advantage to stamp out darkness.

-Harvey K.


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## windstrings (Oct 14, 2006)

*Re: Initial impressions of the Xeray 50Watt.*



frogs3 said:


> I don't know where Windstrings lives, but I am guessing it is not too close to Philadelphia, PA, otherwise we could do side-by-side beamshots.
> 
> BTW, there have been comments that these lights get very hot on the bottom with continued use. In my experience, running the unit for up to 40 minutes in moderate weather has not caused the metal bottom to become more than barely warmer than body temperature to the touch, and certainly not what I would call hot. Let's see what the newest users say about this.
> -Harvey K.



I'm in central Texas.. .bummer...
but take your metal plate off and make sure yours has heat sink paste on the ballast... the metal plate acts as a heat sink via the paste and your ballast may not be getting that benifit.
You can get the paste at any computer store, or online.

It would be sweet if they could figure out a way to get faster startup.
I almost think the initial startup is dimmer than the X990 and takes almost twice as long to reach full brightness, but boy does it get full!

If you want to PM me your email, I can send you my manual if you like.


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## toolboy (Oct 15, 2006)

I put extra paste that I got from Radio Shack to make sure I was getting proper heat transfer. The bottom plate still does not get real hot. I love the barn burner.


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## windstrings (Oct 15, 2006)

Mine hasn't either, but I haven't had it on over 10 minutes at a time yet.

Someone else will have to chime in to say how hot it really gets.

Either your not touching and making contact, or it just doesn't get that hot and that would explain why that thin plate could be an adequate heat sink.

I agree, its a good Idea to use it, since its there.
Whether its really necessary or not, I don't know.


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## windstrings (Oct 15, 2006)

Mine hasn't either, but I haven't had it on over 10 minutes at a time yet.

Someone else will have to chime in to say how hot it really gets.

Either your not touching and making contact, or it just doesn't get that hot and that would explain why that thin plate could be an adequate heat sink.

I agree, its a good Idea to use it, since its there.
Whether its really necessary or not,...

The plate warns it gets hot.. so who knows?


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## windstrings (Oct 16, 2006)

Well I took my first long walk tonight... the light worked like a champ.. Very little heat goes into the body.. unless you have it on for about 45 min, then the top of the reflector and the bottom plate gets warm.

But DON'T touch the front glass on the reflector... this baby put out some lumens and the glass gets stinkin hot!
I was messing around turning the focus and my palm touched the glass and I thought I left skin at first on the glass!..

But all is well.. after about 15 minutes I didn't notice the pain anymore and I don't think I have a blister.

On the walk it was difficult paying attention as to where to point it. You can't just beam anybody you want.. I felt like I was carrying a gun for a while!

The carrying strap is very comfortable and places the light at your side with hands free.

Anyway... for those wishing to upgrade to the Barn Burner... man, I don't know... you better treat the front of this thing like a heater and not touch anything.

I can point my 50W at a desk about 1.5 feet away and in 2 minutes the wood on the desk is too hot to touch.
I suppose it would start a fire after a while unattended.

The barn burner I'm sure would be able to earn its name if pointed too close to an object for a few minutes!

Not much heat on the light itself, but alot goes out the front.

The LiIon battery is really neat to be that small and light, yet deliver that kind of energy for an hour and a half!


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## lasercrazy (Oct 17, 2006)

I can light the sports section of my news paper on fire in about 20-30 seconds with my BB. :devil: I also made the same mistake you did when I got my BB, but I touched it after it had been run for the full hour. :mecry:


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## windstrings (Oct 17, 2006)

lasercrazy said:


> I can light the sports section of my news paper on fire in about 20-30 seconds with my BB. :devil: I also made the same mistake you did when I got my BB, but I touched it after it had been run for the full hour. :mecry:



Ah, you may have started something here!.. I'll have to see how long mine takes.. "if it will at all". I think wood burns around 400 and something degrees.. so I bet it will.

What is the longest you've ran your BB and was it crazy hot?


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## LuxLuthor (Oct 17, 2006)

lasercrazy said:


> I can light the sports section of my news paper on fire in about 20-30 seconds with my BB.



Are you serious? I would like to see a video of that.


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## lasercrazy (Oct 17, 2006)

I've done several full burns of 1 hour with it. When set on the tightest focus the BB puts out a LOT of heat concentrated on a little spot. Maybe one of the other BB owners with a video camera could try it.


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## windstrings (Oct 18, 2006)

lasercrazy said:


> I can light the sports section of my news paper on fire in about 20-30 seconds with my BB. :devil: I also made the same mistake you did when I got my BB, but I touched it after it had been run for the full hour. :mecry:



Well I didn't try lighting a match, but I did try the newspaper... I tried single sheets, folded etc, and shined it on the darker parts of the paper as to absorb the most heat.

At one foot range, it will smoke in about 10 - 15 seconds and at 6 inches it will smoke in about 5 seconds. At point blank..no different than 6 inches.

The paper will develope a black spot about the size of a dime, but will not ignite.
I tried this test outside with an ambient air temp of about 70 with no wind.

*Maybe we should call this one the "smoker!".
*
Just remembering back over 30 years to my fire science... nothing will ignite without 3 things.. fuel "newspaper", oxygenator "21% in the air" and heat.
And the fuel has to reach a predetermined "ignition temperature" which is different for each fuel. Then you have fuel "or fume" air ratio, but I won't get into that.

The object itself does not burn, but rather the fumes from that object that the heat releases.
Although there was something releasing to give smoke, the smoke was white, which could have been moisture and ink burning.
The way you know an impending fire is coming on normal hydrocarbons, the smoke will first be blue, then progress to black..... white means water is on the fire or steam being produced. My smoke remained white.

According to this the ignition temp of paper is 451 defrees Farenheit.. 
I guess I was falling short of that.

I could definately see how 50% more output would easily do the trick!

*I was wondering... from how far did your paper burn and what color did you shoot at, and how many layers of paper "to preserve heat"?

*I know this may seem silly to some, but I remember how fun lasers got when their power got up high enough to ignite things....

Its obvious to say.. these are not toys for the kids!

If you have a Barn Burner, you have to treat it like a gun and hide it!

Maybe Dan can sell us some with a lock code to turn on!....:laughing:


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## LuxLuthor (Oct 18, 2006)

It's funny, I can easily burn a newspaper while shining my 50W XeVision at it. Maybe I have a stronger unit?


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## windstrings (Oct 18, 2006)

LuxLuthor said:


> It's funny, I can easily burn a newspaper while shining my 50W XeVision at it. Maybe I have a stronger unit?



Don't know.. I might have to try it again.. I'm wondering if my newpaper was damp from the recent rain while it was in the mailbox.

I'm suspicious because it would smoke "steam" and then after about 30 - 45 seconds quite smoking for the most part as it was dried... but damp paper won't burn near like dry will...

How far were you away from the target and how long did it take?


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## LuxLuthor (Oct 18, 2006)

I could have the newspaper at a wide variety of distances from the light when it burns. My newspapers are not wet. Maybe you are not doing it right?


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## windstrings (Oct 18, 2006)

LuxLuthor said:


> I could have the newspaper at a wide variety of distances from the light when it burns. My newspapers are not wet. Maybe you are not doing it right?



*Maybe you soaked yours in kerosene?..* I noticed the ignition temp of that was only 201, instead of the 450 needed for paper! :laughing:


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## windstrings (Oct 18, 2006)

I dried my paper in the sun and brought indoors... although I got bluer smoke this time.. no go after 4 minutes at 6 inches away.

I think the only difference between our two units are the bulbs.
I'm using a DL-50 driven at 50 watts like its technically rated for to give long life and your using the GE bulb rated at 35 watts but hitting it with 50W so I expect it runs "hotter".

The BB 75 is also overdriven in a similiar fasthion with the DL-50 bulb getting hit with 75 watts......I don't know if the temps are the same or not, but according to Dan the life expectancy is.. so I expect they both have higher degree outputs.
That may be more important as to whether you have a "hot" beam than the lumens by itself.
Quote from Dan: Post # 9 ...Our 75 watt bulb gets similar life to a 35 watt driven at 50 watts.

Seems he talked about temps somewhere but I couldn't find it.


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## LuxLuthor (Oct 18, 2006)

The way this paper is burning, that wouldn't matter.


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## windstrings (Oct 18, 2006)

LuxLuthor said:


> The way this paper is burning, that wouldn't matter.




:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:


OK.. I give..... for now!


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## windstrings (Oct 18, 2006)

What no reply yet?... you know I like it when you tease me! 

I think I'm gonna find an ant bed and **** them off then then see how they like my light.....

BTW.. I can see the beam on the ground for about 40 feet in broad daylight before I lose the beam.

I bet yours can't so that! :lolsign:


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## toolboy (Oct 18, 2006)

I'm just enough of a geek to have tried this the first day I got my BB. I can burn through the dark spots in the newspaper in about 10 seconds. However the type of newspaper matters. I receive three different papers and they all react somewhat differently as they are not made of the same materials. Dry leaves are a different matter. Take a BB with you if you get to go on "survivor" and you will always have fire. It burns dried leaves no sweat. I had a fire in about 15 seconds. Besides being an incredible flashlight it could also be marked as one of the most expensive lighters in the world. P.S. bats are more than confused when you shine this baby on them, I drove one into the ground with it. It was stuck in our bay at the fire station. It must have overloaded its senses. New applications every day. :rock:


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## windstrings (Oct 18, 2006)

toolboy said:


> P.S. bats are more than confused when you shine this baby on them, I drove one into the ground with it. It was stuck in our bay at the fire station. It must have overloaded its senses. New applications every day. :rock:



So does that mean its now an "enlightened bat? 

Or maybe.. "you made it see the light"? 

How about.. you made it quit being so serious and "lighten up?" :naughty:

Or did you make the bat even more "blinder than a bat"? 

Did you light a fire under its butt? 

Did you make it so confused that you drove it batty? 

Did it squeal like a hot pig?

Did you give it "new direction"?

OK.. I"m done now.... it's luxluthors fault! :touche:


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## lasercrazy (Oct 18, 2006)

I can get the same result between about 6-12" from the paper. Like toolboy says the kind of paper does indeed make a difference. I just got done burning through the bottom of a cardboard box. I can take a pic if you wanna see. It didn't catch on fire but it did burn a hole right through it that smoldered for a few minutes.


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## windstrings (Oct 18, 2006)

lasercrazy said:


> I can get the same result between about 6-12" from the paper. Like toolboy says the kind of paper does indeed make a difference. I just got done burning through the bottom of a cardboard box. I can take a pic if you wanna see. It didn't catch on fire but it did burn a hole right through it that smoldered for a few minutes.



Looks like your running the Barn Burner.. I"m still wondering if those who have overdriven bulbs have a hotter beam?

Now we will have to have a flaming shootout!

After seeing what this beam will do, It helps understand why you can see objects over a mile away!


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## LuxLuthor (Oct 18, 2006)

Yeah, it sort of burns the image into your memory. So you still struggling with burning your newspaper? Remember I have a stock GE 35W bulb from my Group Buy.


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## windstrings (Oct 18, 2006)

LuxLuthor said:


> Yeah, it sort of burns the image into your memory. So you still struggling with burning your newspaper? Remember I have a stock GE 35W bulb from my Group Buy.



yea, it must be hotter getting the extra wattage.
Mine is running stock, so its prob a bit cooler.... but I"m only guessing.

Well I have to have a flamethrower.....so looks like its an upgrade!

It kinda makes me wonder.. if they made a 75 watt bulb and you hit it stock with the same ballast that is hitting the DL-50.. I wonder if it would still be so hot?


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## BVH (Oct 18, 2006)

Windstrings said "Maybe you soaked yours in kerosene?.. "

I got a good laugh out of that! Geeze, you Pyromanics! These are lights, not fire starters! Never mind I kept trying to see how thick of a material my laser would burn through when I first got it or that I burned a whole in the plastic brick material in my parents kitchen decades ago. 

Excuse me for a bit while I go see if my Helios will start a fire!.....

Well, puffs of smoke and a very small burned whole but no fire.


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## windstrings (Oct 18, 2006)

BVH said:


> Excuse me for a bit while I go see if my Helios will start a fire!.....
> 
> Well, puffs of smoke and a very small burned whole but no fire.




aahhhh!..... Somehow I feel better now!


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## BVH (Oct 18, 2006)

You might feel better but remember, the Helios spreads out the millions of lumens that are normally in the hotspot into the corona and naturally, wouldn't start a fire. I think the helios still puts out more overall lumens!

Waiting.....


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## LuxLuthor (Oct 19, 2006)

OK, I can't tease you anymore. I used a match to light the newspaper while the light was shining on it. Ha Ha! I could just hear you moaning.....oh man....I have an inferior XeRay.

 :lolsign: :rock:


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## windstrings (Oct 19, 2006)

BVH said:


> You might feel better but remember, the Helios spreads out the millions of lumens that are normally in the hotspot into the corona and naturally, wouldn't start a fire. I think the helios still puts out more overall lumens!
> 
> Waiting.....



As I"ve mentioned before... I get the impression the polarion guys try to do the best with their lumens to give you a "usable" throw... they are not too concerned with shining into areas you have to see with binoculars anyway.

I think they do a very good job!... when enginneer a light in that fashion,... there is a risk of lowering the illumination of "what you can see" too!

Considering thier reflector is smaller too... it does show an engenius design on thier part to do alot with what they have.

*Having said that......* I just just think they are alittle bit behind the competition for the price they want. Why can't they throw in a double or at least 50% bigger battery?... whats up with only 90 mins runtime with only 40 watts?

If you look at human psychology... price is not too much of a factor for buying if the buyer is totally impressed without reservation.

I don't mind paying 30.00+ a plate for dinner if "everything" is perfect... but just one bad item seems to put the fly in the ointment.

The Helios has some remarkable features worthy of 1600.00, until you start factoring in its letdowns too.

When you buy a "used" car, your are weighing the negatives of one against the other.. more than the positives.. because when used, the negatives are what will get you in trouble. 

The first thing I do is look under the hood.. I could care less what kind of fancy stereo it has or chrome shiny wheels...

But when the car is new, because you trust there are no negatives "being new", you let the wow factor carry you away.

You get enough wow factor going on, and any fear of unfounded negatives goes away as pure emotion takes over the checkbook! 

But "founded fears" seems to kill the wow!

Seems when there are flaws, then price matters... when there are not.. it doesn't.

If you are a diver, then that need overides the other because you won't be down over 90min anyway.

They are wanting a very premium price.... Although an impressive and fine product... it needs to be perfect at that price.

There is too much competetion out here now.

In some respects, its like its been mentioned..its not fair to compare..its apples and oranges, In other respects, they are in direct competition...

If they want to stick with thier guns and not invest anymore in research and new technology, their market will still sell, but be vastly smaller.


Intel and AMD are constantly bantering the same way.. they spend all this time and money developing a new processor, just to find out when they release it, their competition has also been burning the midnight oil and quickly outdates them.

If your going to develope a new product, it pays to develope one that is so far above the mark that competition will not catch up till you have made a hefty profit.... I think they aimed too low in some areas, yet they want all thier research money back "now" before the market cools furthur.

Lets be honest... how may people out there can or are willing to spend 1600.00 on a light unless its perfect in everyway just to have bragging rights alone?... not many

_Either make the light perfect, or lower the price considerably and IMHO they will make much more profit.
_
The upgrade to the Helios is barely different in performance than their older version?.... if performance is really what I need.. am I going to pay double for looks? Although my hats off to the looks, they undershot the mark in the performance area.

I know this whole idea is scary and risky for them unless the existing market proves itself first and they do well off of the Helios.

I can only assume at the time when they were enginneering this, they assumed they were cutting edge in the performance area too, but maybe miscalculated the competition.

Hey, but I'm not in management.... I'm just the guy buying the light! :touche:


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