# headlamp for a runner



## pipspeak (Feb 18, 2009)

A friend of mine has a tendency to run at night and also do the occasional ultramarathon, which requires nighttime starts, and asked me to research the best headlamp out there. 

Obviously size and weight are issues (no light sliding down in front of eyes) and ability to run for a good few hours while providing bright, spill-oriented light is also a requirement. Bright light up to about 15ft out would probably be best rather than really wide spill or tight focus.

Suggestions from runners and non-runners? I'd be especially curious if runners suggest a separate, waist-mounted battery pack, which seems to make sense to me (but I don't run, so what do I know?!)

I'm thinking a CR123 light would probably be best in terms of size/weight to brightness ratio. Being PT Eos fan, I immediately thought of the new rebel version, but I think it's too front-heavy and would end up sliding down a sweaty forehead. Zebralights appear to be way too spilly for running. Perhaps a new PT Apex?


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## gunga (Feb 18, 2009)

I use a modded EOS with seoul and smooth reflector.

I find the Zebralight H30 to be too floody without enough throw for night running.

I may swap out the led to a Q3 5A with McR17XR reflector to try for better colour rendition and depth perception at a later date.

I would prefer something smaller and lighter than the EOS, but I find not enough throw in Zebralights.


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## 65535 (Feb 18, 2009)

I would think a waist mounted SMALL battery pack. Something like 2 separate 18650 battery slots. Mounted on opposite hips, towards the back not directly on the side.

For the headlight something similar to an L4 sounds about right. I would say look for something around 50 lumens with a small reflector or a wide angle optic. Keep in mind they make special optical diffusers if you find a light you like that's too narrow.


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## likeguymontag (Feb 18, 2009)

pipspeak said:


> [...] Being PT Eos fan, I immediately thought of the new rebel version, but I think it's too front-heavy and would end up sliding down a sweaty forehead.



I agree, you _could _run with an EOS, but it's less than optimal. You could mod it for a remote battery pack though, maybe 3xAA lithium primaries or something. The EOS is 105 grams with alkalines loaded in it. It should be about 70 grams with no batteries at all.

Anything with front-mounted batteries will either bounce too much or have too crappy a runtime or both. I think you need to look exclusively at lights with rear or remote battery packs.


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## pipspeak (Feb 18, 2009)

If only the Surefire Saint had already been released :candle: Bit pricey, but looks like it will have the perfect beam pattern, runtime and balance for running. The new lil energizer with rear-mounted 1xAA also looks perfect for sporty types, but that's another light not yet released. Maybe I'll suggest she stops running for a few months 

I jogged around the house with my Eos on and it annoyed the hell out of me. So that's out. And modding is not an option... I'm looking for something off the shelf.


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## likeguymontag (Feb 18, 2009)

pipspeak said:


> I jogged around the house with my Eos on and it annoyed the hell out of me. So that's out. And modding is not an option... I'm looking for something off the shelf.



Good, efficient runners don't bounce. Do you bounce? (I do, I was a mediocre xcountry runner.)


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## gunga (Feb 18, 2009)

pipspeak said:


> If only the Surefire Saint had already been released :candle: Bit pricey, but looks like it will have the perfect beam pattern, runtime and balance for running. The new lil energizer with rear-mounted 1xAA also looks perfect for sporty types, but that's another light not yet released. Maybe I'll suggest she stops running for a few months
> 
> I jogged around the house with my Eos on and it annoyed the hell out of me. So that's out. And modding is not an option... I'm looking for something off the shelf.


 

I agree on the saint and the Energizer. Maybe soon?


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## BSBG (Feb 18, 2009)

Here's a thread from a few weeks ago:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/212243&highlight=running


I use the now discontinued BD Zenix IQ - it takes 2AA in a rear compartment, has a high (luxeon) and 2 5mm low LEDs. I swapped the Lux for a Seoul, but even in stock form it is not bad and can still be found cheap from time to time. The newer, brighter models from BD and petzl are probably the better choice.


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## pipspeak (Feb 18, 2009)

likeguymontag said:


> Good, efficient runners don't bounce. Do you bounce? (I do, I was a mediocre xcountry runner.)


 
I'm not the runner in this case... just the flashaholic charged with finding a good headlamp


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## likeguymontag (Feb 18, 2009)

pipspeak said:


> I'm not the runner in this case... just the flashaholic charged with finding a good headlamp



Exactly, that's my point. I bounce, you probably bounce, and if your friend can survive ultramarathons without injury, then she probably bounces less when she runs than you and I do. So if a light passes your test, it'll probably work fine for her.


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## hurricane (Feb 19, 2009)

You said he wanted 'the best' well here it is: http://en.petzl.com/ultra/petzl-ultra.html

It's designed for orienteering and ultra-running. There is a battery harness to keep the weight from bobbing on your head and you can choose smaller/larger batteries - based on requirements. It's plenty bright too [350 lumens]. They're known for their very good power to weight ratio.

Lupine lights from Germany are also in this league [quality and expense] and even have lights pumping-out more than 1000 lumens: http://www.lupine.de/web/en/

These are expensive lights, which make the 'expensive' surefire saint look like a bargain, but they're rechargeable and their output is exponentially more. They are designed specifically for this purpose.

Something with a remote battery pack is ideal because you don't get the battery-pack bobbing and strain on your head. You have to look at what the athletes are using and they're using: Petzl, Mila, Lupine. I use a Petzl Myo XP Belt for snowshoe running and night time running and it's great. Plenty of light. Running on trails at night requires tons of light, you roll your ankle under load and your day is over, you do it bad enough and you may never run again ...

Small, lightweight LED lights like Petzl Tikkas et al are useless for trail running: reading a book, cooking dinner, changing a flat - fine, but they have no place for fast-paced sports.


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## Hooked on Fenix (Feb 20, 2009)

Maybe a new PT Apex Pro. One light that might work for this application well is the River Rock 2 123A Cree XR-E headlight. It is $15 at Target now and states that it puts out 136 lumens for 4 hours bright with 2 more additional hours. It has a top strap, but it only works well for those with small heads. I removed the top strap on mine. It weighs 4 ounces with the unneeded top strap. It isn't waterproof, but that shouldn't be an issue as most people don't run at night in the rain. It doesn't have much in the way of heatsinking, but running at night when it's cool out should limit this problem. Plus, it's only $15. The batteries it comes with cost $10 in the store. Might be worth giving it a try.


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## gillestugan (Feb 20, 2009)

If you want a lamp that sits securely on the head while running for long time you may want to look at orienteering lamps.

You can for example have a look at Silva or Mila which both makes lamps specialized for running and are cheaper than petzl ultra.


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## JackJ (Feb 20, 2009)

I also run with a Seoul + reflector modified EOS. It works well for road runs, but I need more total light and more throw for trails, which I get by bringing along a handheld, usually a Nitecore D10 these days.

As mentioned by others, bounce is an issue for some, but I honestly think running with a headlamp has improved my technique by forcing me to pay attention to the bounce. Less bounce equals less wasted energy on vertical motion AND an easier time for those precious, delicate joints (feet, knees hips), so maybe batteries on the front is a good thing.

I use NiMH because I'm cheap and they perform well. If considering CR123, then Lithium AA might be a good option to save weight and get more output.

Jack


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## likeguymontag (Feb 20, 2009)

gillestugan said:


> If you want a lamp that sits securely on the head while running for long time you may want to look at orienteering lamps.
> 
> You can for example have a look at Silva or Mila which both makes lamps specialized for running and are cheaper than petzl ultra.



Help me understand something. Why are all of the high-powered headlight manufacturers European? Do European (Scandinavian?) orienteering competitions only run at night? Or is it a winter sport maybe? Here in the US I've only done orienteering during the daytime, and I shudder to think how much harder it would be to locate myself on a topo map at night.


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## zemmo (Feb 20, 2009)

likeguymontag said:


> Help me understand something. Why are all of the high-powered headlight manufacturers European? Do European (Scandinavian?) orienteering competitions only run at night? Or is it a winter sport maybe? Here in the US I've only done orienteering during the daytime, and I shudder to think how much harder it would be to locate myself on a topo map at night.



I think you kind of answered your own question. For running on familiar ground you can get by without a lot of lumens, but when off-trail and actually trying to figure out where you're going at night, as you are some of the time in European Orienteering events, you need a lot more help.


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## likeguymontag (Feb 20, 2009)

zemmo said:


> I think you kind of answered your own question. For running on familiar ground you can get by without a lot of lumens, but when off-trail and actually trying to figure out where you're going at night, as you are some of the time in European Orienteering events, you need a lot more help.



Oh, I understand why you'd need a lot of light to do orienteering at night. In the boy scouts with an incan minimag I occasionally got disoriented searching for firewood only a hundred yards from my campsite, and I've gotten lost plenty doing orienteering in the daytime.

So this is my real question: Why do Europeans/Scandinavians do orienteering events at night? In order to make it more challenging?


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## pipspeak (Feb 20, 2009)

Thanks all for the suggestions. I hope most are available in the US but I'll be in London next month so that might also be a good place to pick one up. Can anyone suggest a good London store that might have some of the Petzls in stock?


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## ifor powell (Feb 20, 2009)

I go Orientearing in the dark for the added challenge. My technique in the day is probobly too conservative and I rarly get realy badly lost. In the dark it is a different ball game and far more challenging. I am ok on most of the terain we use here in the UK in the dark but every now and then we have a night event on a realy technical area and it is a real challenge again. All the Night O I have done in Scandinavia has been of the realy chgallenging sort.

There may well be Night O in the US but the scale of the sport is far smaller than the Scandinavian countries. No way is there the demand to support comercial lights in the US but in Scandinavia where the biggest all night relay event in the summer can have 10 000+ competitors there is a good market for people with the right product.

As for the light to use for night running it depends upon the terain if on good tracks with a smooth surface then any on the latest generation small led lights should be good. There are a number of 3 aaa lights that come in under 100g. Or for more runtime rougher trails a 4 AA setup with batteries on the back and an over the top headband can normaly be made to work well. althoiugh a seperate batery pack is better especialy if it will be very cold. If you are looking to run off trail or on rough trails at any speed then you idealy need more light and are looking at the real O lights or some of the biking lights that are avalible with headbands.

Ifor


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## jankj (Feb 20, 2009)

likeguymontag said:


> So this is my real question: Why do Europeans/Scandinavians do orienteering events at night? In order to make it more challenging?



Well, plenty of European/Scandinavian day time orienteering at day, too. . .

The nights events are popular probably because a) many Europeans are outdoor fanatics, b) its fun, c) involves high-tech gear. In Scandinavia, you have the additional factor that there just aren't many hours of daylight in the winter.


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## likeguymontag (Feb 20, 2009)

ifor powell said:


> [...] As for the light to use for night running it depends upon the terain if on good tracks with a smooth surface then any on the latest generation small led lights should be good. [...]



I believe most ultramarathons are road running events. I think there are also trail running events, but that's a subset of a niche activity.


Edit: I'm mistaken, thanks for correcting me UltraRunner:



UltraRunner said:


> Correction, most ultramarathons are in fact trail races.


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## tnuckels (Feb 20, 2009)

I’d think too that if you are anywhere near road traffic you might want: a headlamp with a light/blinker built into the battery pack, or some of those bicycling lights that you could clip somewhere, or some of those PT Pilot lights that clip onto your headband. Some sort of light to make you more visible from the rear.

Then there are the sides, top and bottom. Hell, just carry a car battery, inverter, and wrap yourself in flashing LED Christmas lights. The exercise will do you good! :green:


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## chris_m (Feb 20, 2009)

hurricane said:


> Small, lightweight LED lights like Petzl Tikkas et al are useless for trail running: reading a book, cooking dinner, changing a flat - fine, but they have no place for fast-paced sports.


Whilst I normally use a homemade multi-LED headlamp which pumps out ~600 lumens for night-O (as discussed extensively above), I have successfully (I won the event) used a modded Eos. I'd have no worries at all about using one for trail running. The only reason I need more lumens usually is that I'm competing against people like Ifor, though I probably should admit to starting the arms race


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## UltraRunner (Feb 23, 2009)

Correction, most ultramarathons are in fact trail races. Speaking as a veteran ultrarunner (Vermont 100, Western States 100, Mountain Masochist 50, JFK 50, etc.) a couple of things to think about in lights. AA batteries are the way to go. Lithium for long burn time and weight savings are recommended. AA's because you want to be able to buy or borrow (from aid station volunteers) batteries if needed when you get to the race as well as being able to swap batteries between different lights. I always keep spare batteries in my drop bags. Second thing is you want redundancy. I always have at least 3 lights: headlamp, hand-held and backup. You REALLY don't want to have your only light fail at mile 70 at 3 a.m. in the middle of nowhere. A trip and fall, common, bad weather, common, can damage either your hand-held or your headlamp. That's why you have three. I generally run with just the headlamp but use the hand-held for tricky turns, bad terrain, or looking for long distance trail markings. Some runners have experienced nausea just using a hand held because of watching the bouncing light hour after hour.

My current setup:

Myo XP headlamp (3 AA's)
EagleTac P10A2 hand-held (2 AA's)
Jetbeam (1 AA) backup


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## zemmo (Feb 23, 2009)

Ultrarunner, what have you found to be the most comfortable way to carry the batteries?


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## UltraRunner (Feb 23, 2009)

In my running backpack in a plastic battery holder in a ziploc bag.


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## zemmo (Feb 23, 2009)

What about the batteries in use? Do you have a remote battery back in the backpack? You're not running with AAs on your head, are you?


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## UltraRunner (Feb 23, 2009)

Yep, three in the back of the headstrap. It helps if you wear a buff or hat to cushion it a bit.


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## gooseman (Feb 24, 2009)

I do most of my trailrunning in the Arizona mountains at night; and these runs tend to be about 2 hours each - so my setup is tailored to this context. In the desert, I don't have to worry about branches overhead, but the trail is extremely rocky and technical in many places, so I need very good depth perception or I trip over things, roll my foot, stub my toes, step on snakes, etc etc. The hills have eyes -- often many eyes -- so I like to have one powerful light which reveals my company 

If you are running competitively, I would take ultrarunner's advice and stick with 3 AA lights - however, I don't run competitively so I choose differently. I run pretty frequently, so I use rechargeables. I personally find AA Sanyo 2700 mah NiMH (or Eneloop) and AW 18650 the best rechargeable options.

Like UltraRunner, I also recommend three lights, but I use all three at the same time (more below). I find looking at 3 (even 2) concentrated beams very distracting and uncomfortable. I choose two very floody beams and one thowy beam; this seems to be less distracting for me.

First, the headlamp. I tried the Myo-XP (pre-2008 and 2008), 80 lumen Princeton Tec Apex Pro, Primus PrimeLite Race. I settled on the Primus, however, now I use a Fenix LD20 in a Fenix headstrap which is slightly modified. This gives me 180 regulated lumens @ 2 hours on 2 NiMH. The LD20 has a great beam.

The Fenix headstrap comes with two flashlight holders and one battery holder; I took the battery holder and cut off the cylinders so that it is a flat piece of plastic. It is made out of PVC which is gummy, so it doesn't shatter / crack easily. This let me use the top strap which I find helpful in stabilizing things. So on one side I had the LD20, and the other side just the smooth and flat plastic 'plate' which attaches the top strap to the headband. If you go this route, make sure you slide the LD20 as far back as it can to minimize messing up your peripheral vision. I tried other lights but they hurt my peripheral vision due to reflections from the bezel or whatever. The LD20 is relatively light (56g w/o batteries), so it won't bob much. The new EagleTack P100A2 may be interesting, but its much heavier.

I tried using two lights on the headsteap, but its quite busy / awkward / heavy / silly looking (not that the wildlife cares).

Second, the handheld torch. For some reason, I really like being able to put light somewhere without turning my head (as required with most headlamp only setups). I wanted something very floody, because the light will naturally bob with your pace. If its a laser-skinny beam, it will be all over the place - a nice big flood kind of makes it somewhat less noticeable. I tried Fenix P3D, PD30, JetBeam Pro III ST, and Wolf Eyes Sniper MC-E. Currently, I use a Wolf Eyes Sniper MC-E. You will probably only need to run this on medium, it is insanely bright with wide & beautiful flood. If you hold it at waist height, you get a great view of the countours in front of you because the shadows accentuate things. I can't say enough good things about this torch. Relatively speaking, its also not very heavy. The only minus is that on medium / low, PWM may be noticeable when the light and you are moving - it doesn't bug me, and I'm usually sensitive to these things.

Third, waist light. This is optional, but I find it very useful on technical parts. I use a ZebraLight H60 mounted to the waist strap of a CamelBak Octane 8. It faces down at a 45' angle, and at this height gives a great floody beam showing the rocks and snakes within a few feet of me. If you don't use a pack with suitable belt, you can try a Patagonia Stretch Wading Belt, or a belt / fanny from Nathan / Ultimate Direction / Amphipod preferrably 1.5" wide, as the H60 w/18650 will cause narrower belts to twist and bob while running. To keep the H60 from moving, I used 2 wide rubber-bands that held my broccoli florets from the supermarket together  Put one rubber band over the knurling on the tail-cap for extra grip.

Buying all of this in one go is pretty expensive, I cobbled this setup together (if that isn' obvious) from lights I bought over time for completely different reasons - it just happens that the combination works very well for me.

I keep all this in/on my CamelBak Octane 8. It has two pockets on the waist belt which can take you spare batteries.

If you are racing, keeping all three lights going can be a bit over the top & distracting. I would recommend ULtraRunners setup: the headlamp and the handheld light + 1 backup. I have used just the Wolf Eyes at times, and for hands-free operation attach it to my shoulder strap (although I don't run with it like that). Also, another drawback is that I'm using 2 battery types, which is suboptimal in some ways.

BTW, my dog runs with me often and wears a ZebraLight H30 on top of his head  I think we probably look like a UFO sometimes.


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## Derek Dean (Feb 24, 2009)

Howdy gooseman and welcome to CPF,
What a great first post! I'd really like to see a dusk photo of you and the dog all lit up out on the trail...... it must be an interesting sight for all of those night eyes. 

Thanks for sharing your setup. I've recently started running at night and this thread has given me lots of great ideas for lighting my way. 

Happy trails.


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## JackJ (Feb 24, 2009)

Hi Gooseman,

I'm wondering if you can say a little more about the Primus PrimeLite Race. I've been considering it, but haven't seen a lot of details. My main concern is that the beam is too focused--not enough spill. What made you give it up for the LD20?

Thanks,
Jack


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## gooseman (Feb 25, 2009)

JackJ said:


> Hi Gooseman,
> 
> I'm wondering if you can say a little more about the Primus PrimeLite Race. I've been considering it, but haven't seen a lot of details. My main concern is that the beam is too focused--not enough spill. What made you give it up for the LD20?
> 
> ...



Hi Jack,

The Primus PrimeLite Race is a fine headlamp; I used it trail running for about 6 mos. Szemhazai did a good job of reviewing it here. I would still probably use it over the LD20 in some cases. 

To address your concern, the PrimeLite (as well as the LD20) have pretty tight & focused beams.

The LD20 setup was a recent goofy experiment that I was somewhat ambivalent of initially, but it grew on me after a few runs. I expect most people will remain unconvinced that the LD20 is good for this - and it isn't ideal by itself. But it works well in the system I described; I am pointing it 30-40 feet down the trail and not relying on its spill very much for nearby trail illumination -- for that I am using the ZebraLight H60 on my waist belt and/or Wolf Eyes Sniper. Both provide beautiful and uniform flood.

I don't think any of the generic outdoor headlamps are ideal for trail running by themselves on very technical / unfamiliar terrain, especially if you're a fast runner. They tend not to have enough spill; even if they have enough throw. A headlamp dedicated to this purpose, like the Silva Alpha, Lupine, Mila Nova, or Petzl Ultra would probably be better - especially if its the only source of light you have. However, paired with a hand-held torch, the brighter generic outdoor headlamps work well enough. 

So, about the RaceLite vs LD20 specifically, first a comparison of weight vs runtime and brightness

LD20: 180 lumens, ~ 1.5+ hours regulated, 184g (Fenix headband w/top strap, LD20, 2 NiMH batteries)
PrimeLite: 140 lumens, ~ 3+ hours regulated, 322g (4 NiMH batteries)

NiMH batteries were tested to be ~2400 mAH capacity.

Typically we don't think there should be much difference between 140 and 180 lumens, but the newer reflectors on the PD20 / PD30 / LD10 / LD20 are very optimized for the Q5 and beat out the reflector on the PrimeLite, despite its large diameter. The hotspot on the LD20 is slightly larger than the PrimeLite and it is noticeably brighter. However, my PrimeLite has poor reflector / emitter alignment and this effects the shape of its hot spot, which is not symmetrical. The spill (from my observation) is brighter on the LD20, but the spill area is slightly larger on the PrimeLite.

Second, the PrimeLite does not have a top strap. The bezel is somewhat beefy, which is good because it functions as a nice heat sink, but its center of gravity sits out a bit from the strap, so it has a tendency to bounce. This isn't a problem with the Apex or Myos, which have top straps. I got used to that though, so it didn't bother me a whole lot. As someone once mentioned, one good thing about the PrimeLite is you can head-butt somebody with its crenelated bezel 

I think you could fix this problem yourself with a careful mod, however. If you look closely at the PrimeLite mount which is connected to the headstrap, and which the bezel / pill are hinged on to, it has a long slot on top. This practically begs a mount for a top strap. You could take the Fenix kit I mentioned, and use the top strap from that along with my modification for the battery compartment. The 3-way plastic thing is still needed to join the bands in the back of the head. You would have to cut a small slit at a 45' angle on the PrimeLite mount so you could slide the strap in. I haven't tried this, and don't know how well it would work.

Lastly, as matter of preference, I didn't like (any) external battery packs much. First, you need a coin, multitool, or back of a knife blade to open the PrimeLite battery compartment in case you need to change batteries. The Apex had a tool built into one if its cam-buckles that functioned like this, which was smart. Since I run with a hydration pack, I had to figure out where to put the batteries : on the waist-belt, or in the pack. I just found that with my pack in particular, the cord got in the way or snagged too much, especially if I had to take the pack off for some reason.

So my issues with the PrimeLite are very minor. Its a well designed headlamp.


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## Jagge (Feb 25, 2009)

pipspeak said:


> Suggestions from runners and non-runners? I'd be especially curious if runners suggest a separate, waist-mounted battery pack, which seems to make sense to me (but I don't run, so what do I know?!)



Some alternatives:

- Lupine Tesla. 700 lumens 3 hours on high, 100+ lumens 24 hours on low. Waist pack. 320g.

- Ay-Up headlamp kit. about 300 lumens, 3 hours, 180g. Battery pack in the back of the headstrap. Get waist pack for extended burning times.

- Home made headlamp. You can optimize it by yourself for your own needs. For example SSC P7 led + AMC8135 driver (with 350 mA low mode) and 6 x AA nimh waist pack (3.6V). Weight would be less than 300g, low should give about 100-130 lumens for 15 hours (for 24h ultras). High something like 1.0...1.8A ~300...500 lumens for about 3...5 hours (for short but tricky trail runs). Get 5A 3.7V li-ion pack instead of nimh to get weight close to 200g. Some examples here. 

I have ran with the 175g lamp about twice a week ever since I made it, it's a real gem for my training needs. Actually it might do just fine as it is also for trails ultras if trails are not too rough - on low it burns 17 hours.


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## JackJ (Feb 26, 2009)

gooseman said:


> ....
> So my issues with the PrimeLite are very minor. Its a well designed headlamp.



Thanks for the detailed analysis, particularly the bit about balance/bounce coupled with the lack of a top strap.

Since I'm reasonably content with my modified Eos + handheld, I think I'll continue to wait for a relatively affordable headlamp that can really fit my needs.

Jack


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## tvman (Feb 28, 2009)

I am a night time runner (not marathons). I am looking at the Princeton Tec Apex Extreme with the 8aa (or 4aa) pack clipped to the waist and the Princeton Apex with the 4aa mounted in back of head lamp apparatus along with the Led Lenser H7 although I don't like the Lenser aaa battery source.


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## bouncer (Mar 18, 2009)

I am not runner first off not even close. I would think lightweight would be the main quality along with the light quantity anyone know how much light the Princeton tec scout gives, coin cells are light weight the main issue would be cost of batteries unless you buy them at Lighthound.com and you could add a pilot or two and still weigh less than a couple AA batteries.


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## Chads93GT (Mar 19, 2009)

I run at night with my tikka xp


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## codypop (Mar 20, 2009)

I have a old but modded Tikka XP and an old doubly modded PT Apex.

Both have a Seoul P4 U2SVOH from Photon Fanatic as main beam - double the original brightness and better tint too, for the same current and runtime.

The Apex I also modded with brighter Nichia 5mm LEDs. Again better tint, and a slightly tighter beam. I find that both the flood beam (which is tighter than before) and the spot beam (which has more spill than before) are more useful since the mod.

The Tikka is great for firetrails and straightforward bush running, but the Apex is the go-to light for more technical trail of some of the trail ultras here in south east Queensland.

Weight is not a problem if you've trained with the light regularly, and the Apex seems very well balanced fore and aft.

edit: I'm going trail running next Saturday Night with my OH (does that count as a date?) and will take some pix of her sternum light in action. That would be a good option for a lady ultrarunner. I've modded it (as above) before it's even been used.


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