# Tiablo A8 SSC P7 flamethrower



## StefanFS (Apr 10, 2008)

I decided that my Tiablo A8 needed to get a new life. It was quite premium with UCL-glass, CREE Q5, FluPIC etc. But It was kept in a drawer, and chances were high it would stay there.

This is what you need. One Tiablo, some SSC P7 emitters, a few reflectors to test beam distribution and geometry, various tools and some drivers for testing.








Removing the old emitter and the old 'potted' FluPIC sandwich. I always take out the driver with contact ring through the holes for emitter leads, a thin screwdriver and a hammer to tap it out. When the driver is out turn the module around and tap the emitter star out if it overlaps the hole (if not twist the star out with pliers, Tiablo & LP uses quite soft thermal glue).







The reflector has been opened to a diameter of ~9 mm with a stepless drill bit (for metal sheeting). The height of the emitter in relation to the reflector is good as it is, it is approx. the same height as a CREE on a star. _The only modification neccessary is to enlarge the reflector opening to ~9mm._ Best focus is acheived with the op reflector. I tried a number of focus points with my smooth reflector without any luck, in the end the smooth reflector had too much material removed for it to work. Now it's scrap:mecry:. The emitter is centered and glued to the heatsink module.












I tested some of the available driver configurations/solutions on this one. In the end I decided to go with direct drive because I can use the stock two level tailcap switch that comes with the Tiablo A8. Why would I want even some measly tenths of a Volt or even a few mA to be wasted? One 18650 LiION will make this emitter fly at spec without losses in a driver! When/if good drivers become available I'll put one in this light.
This is the direct drive interface, just a stripped driver in the contact ring with + & - wires to the emitter.







One of my experiments, gives the emitter ~2.3A. Wiring diagram courtesy of member Netkidz. It works ok, but I want it all! All the magnificent 2.9A!







The stock tailcap switch, it has one 10 Ohm smd resistor for low level. On the Tiablo low is very low. That doesn't work for me since this light is supposed to be a light cannon. The only solution is to change the resistor to a 0.5 Ohm one. Now the levels are; hysterical & insane. Before they were low low & insane. On level insane the light do get hot, so holding it tighly in the hand is advised to help it bleed off some heat.
After I changed resistor the hysterical level is ~60% of level insane. 












I think I got it pretty well centered in the reflector.







Here with my modded edc A9.








*Some indoor wall beamshots*


























Inverted and processed for saturation in paint . net. The darker the brighter it is. The hotspot is massive and the spill is intense.


















*A ~25 meter dark corridor.*
0.5 sec. exposure. f/2.8. Iso 100. WB daylight.
























*Update 2008-04-13*

I decided to make the light 'regulated', I'm going to use this with one 18650 cell so NetKidz elegant AMC7135 based solution will work. It's one 1Ampere multimode driver with a slaved 1.4 Ampere board. I made a sandwich with the two drivers and some thermal glue between them. These drivers doesn't really even get warm unless you feed them over 4.8 Volt. Regulation with one 18650 cell isn't perfectly flat, but it's a lot better than direct drive. It was somewhat difficult to solder this sandwich. I also put in a single level click switch again. Link to the wiring diagram: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=192677

The difference in brightness between 2.3-2.4A and 2.8A is negligible to me. It's a few thousand lux in total output, but it runs cooler and longer.













*Update 2008-05-03*

I did a runtime on high, at 2.4A. It's a very impressive runtime with one AW 18650 2200 mAh LiION cell. About 50 minutes to 50%! This light need to be held in the hand for thermal transfer and cooling, but when held it never exceed 38 degrees Celsius
with an ambient temp of ~20 Celsius.







(I still plan to do outdoor beamshots as soon as possible)

Stefan


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## saabluster (Apr 10, 2008)

StefanFS said:


> I plan to do outdoor beamshots as soon as possible. Maybe this weekend.
> 
> Stefan


No!!! It must be now! Now I tell you!


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## Drewfus2101 (Apr 10, 2008)

Wow, that emitter fits SO perfect in that reflector.


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## StefanFS (Apr 10, 2008)

Drewfus2101 said:


> Wow, that emitter fits SO perfect in that reflector.


 
I think us torch geeks might be in luck this time! The P7 seem to work in a variety of reflectors. In this one it actually resembles an CREE led, soft but intense hotspot and bright spill.
Stefan


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## 1 what (Apr 10, 2008)

Oh boy, cant wait until my P7's arive.
Have you done the beamshots yet?


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## AlexGT (Apr 10, 2008)

I'm wondering how big of a problem the heat is going to be. Can't wait for the beamshots, can you compare it to the P7 Mag you made too?

Thanks!
AlexGT


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## simple (Apr 10, 2008)

Nice mod to the reflector. Stefan, could you post a picture of your "stepless drill bit"? Had no luck with google...


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## Gunner12 (Apr 10, 2008)

Take your time with the beamshots StefanFS, I would hate to rush you in your work and have the beamshots be a blur and of bad quality.

Though you might be able to do some quick wall shots or ceiling bounce shots.

Either way,

:goodjob:


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## StefanFS (Apr 11, 2008)

simple said:


> Nice mod to the reflector. Stefan, could you post a picture of your "stepless drill bit"? Had no luck with google...


 
It visible in pic #4 to the right. I don't know the correct name for it in any of the languages I know.


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## paulr (Apr 11, 2008)

I think we could call that a taper reamer.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reamer


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## Team Member (Apr 11, 2008)

A P7 in a Tiablo..

This must be close to the Jedi light saber with todays technology..

And your work is always top notch. 

We need to have a flashlight get-to-gether :buddies:


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## Crenshaw (Apr 11, 2008)

i was reading this slowly, inching down the page, so that i could savour the moment i saw the beamshots...but alas! no beamshots...



quick! dying to see what 900 lumens looks like in a tiablo..

Crenshaw


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## StefanFS (Apr 11, 2008)

paulr said:


> I think we could call that a taper reamer.
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reamer


 
No, it's close but not it. The thing is often called 'conical drill bit' or 'tapered hole cutter' and sometimes stepless as opposed to the stepped variety of it. In Swedish, konisk plåtborr kontra stegborr.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-TiN-Coated-Conical-Bit-Set-20338.htm

http://www.boettner.com/index2.php?p=produkte


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## lumenlover2 (Apr 11, 2008)

Stefan ? 

First of all .....darn.... we need to get our daily dosis on P7 beamshots from you .

and second .... I pm`d you but no answer yet... would you mod one for me ?:candle:


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## rolling (Apr 11, 2008)

Just ordered a Tiablo A9 to do the same thing


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## simple (Apr 11, 2008)

Thanks for the info guys. It seems both a conical drill bit and a taper reamer will do the job.

I'm guessing to get the ideal focus, the reflector needs to be lifted from the LED a little. But the difference might be negligible.


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## yo6ial (Apr 11, 2008)

Darn! that looks good!:twothumbs
It seems that SSC knows how to make our fingertips itch 
...If only my local led supplier would bring those goodies, on this side of earth...


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## StefanFS (Apr 11, 2008)

simple said:


> Thanks for the info guys. It seems both a conical drill bit and a taper reamer will do the job.
> 
> I'm guessing to get the ideal focus, the reflector needs to be lifted from the LED a little. But the difference might be negligible.


 
Very slightly yes. But it's hard to see a difference with the op reflector. The beam from the smooth is horrible at all focus points. Luckily it's easy to focus the Tiablos/MRV lights since the head and reflector turns in relation to the emitter.

-------------------

lumenlover2,
I'm pressed for time this week, scarcely had time to post this mod, no time to answer messages.


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## glockboy (Apr 11, 2008)

Beam shot?


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## lumenlover2 (Apr 11, 2008)

StefanFS said:


> Very slightly yes. But it's hard to see a difference with the op reflector. The beam from the smooth is horrible at all focus points. Luckily it's easy to focus the Tiablos/MRV lights since the head and reflector turns in relation to the emitter.
> 
> -------------------
> 
> ...


 
Hey no prob. i`ll wait


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## StefanFS (Apr 11, 2008)

glockboy said:


> Beam shot?


 
Now I got some indoor shots up. Please remember that it's very difficult to show different intensities in indoor pics. For a noticeable difference in indoor pics it's at least double the brightness. All the lights used are very bright, that messes with the ccd chip in the camera. The NiteCore DI is modded with another driver, but it's the same brightness as the stock version.


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## simple (Apr 11, 2008)

Nice beam shots!

Clearly the maglite focuses better than the Tiablo. The bigger, the better. This seems especially true for P7. But too bad the mag's reflector is much shallower so more of the LED's output gets out as spill. 

It doesn't surprise me that at longer range the Spear has the brightest hotspot, because the sizes of the spills clearly show that it has the deepest reflector of the three.


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## AlexGT (Apr 11, 2008)

Thanks for the beamshots!, Seems like the Mag has a more concentrated hotspot, I wonder how the P7 beam would look in a DBS reflector, or even better in a 2.5" FM throwmaster!


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## toby_pra (Apr 11, 2008)

WOW Stefan this work is amazing...:wave:

PM sent...


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## Bordermeister (Apr 12, 2008)

Hi Stefan,
I love the work you have done with this.

I have an MRV modded to Q5 WC that tends to get left in the drawer as well. After doing this mod do you think the MRV would be a suitable host for this same mod.

Also how long does it take before it warms up.

I was looking at a P7 mod that I could use as an insanely bright bike light, and was wondering if this would work. I may need to get a larger torch to bleed off the heat if it gets too hot.

Thanks
Mark


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## StefanFS (Apr 12, 2008)

Bordermeister said:


> ...I have an MRV modded to Q5 WC that tends to get left in the drawer as well. After doing this mod do you think the MRV would be a suitable host for this same mod.
> 
> Also how long does it take before it warms up.
> 
> I was looking at a P7 mod that I could use as an insanely bright bike light, and was wondering if this would work. I may need to get a larger torch to bleed off the heat if it gets too hot...


 
An MRV would be a good host, it has good heatsinking. I don't know about the reflector, but it should work. All you need to do is (probably) open up the reflector emitter hole a bit.

Heat... That's the reason I modded the tailcap switch. It's reasonable to run such a light at 1.6-2A for longer periods. With the lower level I get about 1.8A to the emitter and with a big maybe ~500 Lumen. Going to the full 2.8A is not that noticeable, it's not that apparent to the eyes, but it gets hot much quicker and after 10 minutes you need to hold it tight to get the heat away from it. So I suggest that you use a lower drive level & really good heatsinking.

Stefan


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## toby_pra (Apr 12, 2008)

Hello Stafan!

Did you receive my PM?:candle:


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## Bordermeister (Apr 12, 2008)

Thanks again Stefan,
What resistor size and rating would you recommend for the tail switch on an MRV. Would this be the best place or up top were the driver would normally be.

BTW - I did the SSC P4 mod to the Liteflux LF1 and it is a great little light cannon. 

I am thinking of doing the same mod to one of the Stainless C3's to see how it performs.


Cheers
Mark


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## Ganp (Apr 12, 2008)

As always, excellent mod and photo's Stefan. :twothumbs

I'm itching to finish my current projects so that I can do something with my P7.

Do you have a good source for spare Tiablo reflectors?


Colin.


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## StefanFS (Apr 12, 2008)

Bordermeister said:


> Thanks again Stefan,
> What resistor size and rating would you recommend for the tail switch on an MRV. Would this be the best place or up top were the driver would normally be.
> 
> BTW - I did the SSC P4 mod to the Liteflux LF1 and it is a great little light cannon.
> ...


 
The one I used came from the level switch in an old MRV driver I had laying around. As far as I know that one is 0.5 Ohm & at least 1/8 Watt. I use a two level click switch like the ones LumaPower, Regal & Tiablo etc. uses, they hae the resistor mounted like the pics in post 1. I put one of the 14 mm CREE Q5 stars from DX in my stainless C3 along with a better driver, very good results.




Ganp said:


> As always, excellent mod and photo's Stefan. :twothumbs
> 
> I'm itching to finish my current projects so that I can do something with my P7.
> 
> ...


 
Thanks, I'm just a happy amateur. I'd really like to have a lathe and some tools for it, then I'd be able to do some fun stuff. 
Sorry, no source for Tiablo reflectors, now I'm short on one myself after testing for focus too enthusiastically. 
Stefan
--
Edited with the correct resistor value which is .5 Ohm. A stupid typo by me made it 50 Ohm instead of the correct .5!


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## simple (Apr 12, 2008)

StefanFS said:


> I'd really like to have a lathe and some tools for it, then I'd be able to do some fun stuff.
> Stefan


 
You may be interested in this: www.mini-lathe.com


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## StefanFS (Apr 12, 2008)

simple said:


> You may be interested in this: www.mini-lathe.com


 
We have similar stuff available here, but it feels like a compromise. I want the real deal, a used machine from a school shop maybe. I'm likely to end up with one of the mini varieties though. They are probabably good enough for my modest needs.


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## 1 what (Apr 12, 2008)

Hi Stefan,
I've just seen the beamshots.
Can't wait to see the outdoor ones, they should be really impressive.
At this stage I'm going to have to disagree with your "Flamethrower" label.
It's more like a "Turbo-charged flamethrower". :thumbsup:


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## Bordermeister (Apr 12, 2008)

Hi Stefan,
Sorry to take it slightly off topic - I have also modified the Stainless Steel C3 with a 14mm Q5 WC board and that improved it a lot, doesn't get as warm as with the original emitter. Just wanted to try a SSC P4 as I love the tint and it would be a bit floodier I think.

Which driver board did you put in the C3.

Cheers
Mark


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## StefanFS (Apr 13, 2008)

Bordermeister said:


> Which driver board did you put in the C3.


 
I still like this. They have superior regulation. Now they seem to be 17 mm instead of 16 mm. And some whine on low low-low-med. I can live with the whine, those who can't solder led - to the rim for one level. I get ~2500 lux in throw.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7880

Stefan


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## StefanFS (Apr 13, 2008)

I decided to make the light 'regulated'. Some info and pics about this has been added to post #1. It works great! It's feels strange to try the strobe mode with that kind of output...
Stefan


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## toby_pra (Apr 14, 2008)

What would be the disadvatages, if you dont regulate the light?


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## StefanFS (Apr 14, 2008)

In this case I get a slightly flatter discharge curve from the 18650 cell. I get the current down to ~2.3-2.4A, that means a longer and cooler runtime on high. I also get low and medium levels since I used a multimode driver. It's a personal preference mainly, the light works well direct driven but I prefer regulation in some form.
Stefan


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## toby_pra (Apr 14, 2008)

Thanks for the informations Stefan:wave:


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## thom (Apr 14, 2008)

StefanFS said:


> I decided to make the light 'regulated'. Some info and pics about this has been added to post #1. It works great! It's feels strange to try the strobe mode with that kind of output...
> Stefan


 

LOL my wife strobed me the other day with a 3 cree Q5 mag, and it hurts....

thom


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## toby_pra (Apr 15, 2008)

Wuhhhh thats not really nice...


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## StefanFS (May 3, 2008)

Post #1 updated with a runtime test on high, at 2.4A. An amazing runtime of about 50 minutes to 50%!
Stefan


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## regor (May 5, 2008)

Stefan, so you do get more than one mode using the multi mode driver board with the two AMC7135 boards sandwiched together???? Is there quite a difference between modes and do you get longer run times?? Thanks!


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## StefanFS (May 5, 2008)

The A8 only have one 1400 mA board connected to the multimode driver. Total drive level is 2.4A on high. On low and medium level the runtime should be considerably longer.
Stefan


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## toby_pra (May 5, 2008)

with the stock boarb you get 2.4Ah on high?


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## StefanFS (May 5, 2008)

toby_pra said:


> with the stock boarb you get 2.4Ah on high?


 
No, it's a sandwich from one 1A multimode driver and one 1400mA driver. Both AMC7135 based. 
Stefan


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## toby_pra (May 5, 2008)

thx Stefan :ironic:


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## StefanFS (May 6, 2008)

toby_pra said:


> thx Stefan :ironic:


 
I did it like this:











Ingredients for a 2.4A driver:





Stefan


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## StefanFS (May 23, 2008)

Really nice beamshots with this modded light are available here:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/198549

It's an outstanding performer!

Stefan


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## Greg G (Jun 23, 2008)

BTT for a good thread.

I modded a Tiablo A9 with a P7 in direct drive off a single AW 18650 this weekend. It was a light that I had given to a good friend. He dropped it and something broke, I suspect the driver, so I modded it with a more powerful LED and no driver. 

With a fresh battery it pulls 2.95 amps according to my MM. Very bright for about 30 -35 minutes then starts tapering off. By one hour it was pretty dim and I stopped the test. It does get hot. There is still a slight donut-hole in the beam, but is not a problem in practical use. I like the beam of this light comparedto a [email protected] P7 because the spill is gathered up more tightly. At 50 feet the hotspots on both are good, but on the Tiablo the spill is brighter and tighter. If you look at something 10 feet to the side of the hotspot you can see it much better with the Tiablo's beam.

A good mod imo.


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## easilyled (Jun 23, 2008)

Maybe you should suggest to Tiablo the potential of the SSC-P7 led
within their existing models (A8/A9)?

From the beamshots, it looks like it would be a great light.


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## funeralplanner (Jul 19, 2008)

If I put a P7 in a MRV without changing the driver, what kind of output would I be looking at? I have an A8, but I really don't want to change it, as I use it for duty. I have upgraded the LED in the MRV once, and it wasn't bad. I just really don't understand all the driver/no driver stuff.


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## StefanFS (Jul 20, 2008)

funeralplanner said:


> If I put a P7 in a MRV without changing the driver, what kind of output would I be looking at? I have an A8, but I really don't want to change it, as I use it for duty. I have upgraded the LED in the MRV once, and it wasn't bad. I just really don't understand all the driver/no driver stuff.


 
On 2 RCR123 LiION with the stock driver maybe 300-400 lumen. On 18650 much less than that. You also need to use an OP reflector unless you want a nice doughnut/ring for a hotspot. With a 2.4 A sandwich or some other driver solution close to 2.5A you would see 500-600 lumen with an C***I bin P7 led on one 18650 LiION.


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## funeralplanner (Jul 21, 2008)

What driver would you recommend that would fit in the MRV? I use the 18650's in all my lights, so I think a driver around 1.8mAh would be best with longer runtime and brightness. Am I right in my thinking? 
Should I just buy an emitter, or do you suggest the base too? I'm reading and looking a pics to see how everyone does it, but there are SO many variations, it makes my head hurt. Thanks for the help.

David


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## StefanFS (Jul 22, 2008)

funeralplanner said:


> What driver would you recommend that would fit in the MRV? I use the 18650's in all my lights, so I think a driver around 1.8mAh would be best with longer runtime and brightness. Am I right in my thinking?
> Should I just buy an emitter, or do you suggest the base too? I'm reading and looking a pics to see how everyone does it, but there are SO many variations, it makes my head hurt. Thanks for the help.
> 
> David


 
The driver solution I use in this thread, in post 48 & in post 1, will fit in an MRV. You can remove one AMC7135 chip from the 1.4A board to get a lower output ~2A instead of 2.4A. I recommend going with 2.4A for max output, there's always low and medium for longer runtimes.

An SSC P7 mounted on a base will not fit in any of the lights I have modded with P7. Not in the MRV, Tiablo A8/A9 or in Maglites with a heatsink. The base is simply to big. Use a bare emitter, it has the right height for use in lights made for CREE X-RE emitters.

Stefan


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## StefanFS (Jul 23, 2008)

I have an A9 version coming along nicely. Still a few things that haven't arrived. Not sure if I should stop with the polishing at this point or go for mirror surface (that will be sooo sensitive).


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## Gunner12 (Jul 23, 2008)

Al and mirror polish don't last long but it sure looks nice.

I'd keep it as is though.


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## easilyled (Jul 24, 2008)

StefanFS said:


> I have an A9 version coming along nicely. Still a few things that haven't arrived. Not sure if I should stop with the polishing at this point or go for mirror surface (that will be sooo sensitive).



Did you specifically ask for bare Al or did you strip the ano?


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## StefanFS (Jul 24, 2008)

easilyled said:


> Did you specifically ask for bare Al or did you strip the ano?


 
I stripped/deanodized it. Then I had to reduce the 7075 alloy four times to get it just right. Then I started the polishing process.


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## easilyled (Jul 24, 2008)

StefanFS said:


> I stripped/deanodized it. Then I had to reduce the 7075 alloy four times to get it just right. Then I started the polishing process.



Wow, well you certainly did a good job.


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## StefanFS (Jul 28, 2008)

Finished. 2.4A driver with modes. OP reflector and UCL-lens. Modified clicky switch to single level. O-rings are for improved grip.












It performs like the P7 Tiablo A8 did in post 1.

Stefan


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## StefanFS (Oct 29, 2008)

I've been using the bare alu A9 in the post above for three months now. 2.4A to the first generation CSWOI emitter, it's high in that first binning. Everyday. Sometimes as a bike light to work, hehe. At work. In the bag/pocket. Works so well. It washes out in well lit parking lots or similar settings, but it's still blinding. Works like a wall of light with throw in searches or in area lighting. I'm so happy with this mod!






Edit. Added pic with one of my other edc items!


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## easilyled (Oct 29, 2008)

StefanFS said:


> I've been using the bare alu A9 in the post above for three months now. 2.4A to the first generation CSWOI emitter, it's high in that first binning. Everyday. Sometimes as a bike light to work, hehe. At work. In the bag/pocket. Works so well. It washes out in well lit parking lots or similar settings, but it's still blinding. Works like a wall of light with throw in searches or in area lighting. I'm so happy with this mod!



I'm not surprised. Its a great mod. 

I have 2 bi-flupic Aleph-P7 L.Es (made by darkzero) in 2 E-series lights (27XRE & Aleph1) and I love the beam that is produced.

A nice, even, powerful flood, with enough power to throw for 100m easily.

I'm sure they throw even better with a reflector like the Tiablo.

I wish that I had a spare McR38 to mod but they seem to be rarer than hens' teeth these days. :mecry:


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## Hellbore (Nov 2, 2008)

Just curious, don't you get gray residue on your hands from handling the bare AL?

That seems to be normal when handling bare AL because of the constant formation of oxidization that rubs off easily.


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## StefanFS (Nov 2, 2008)

Hellbore said:


> Just curious, don't you get gray residue on your hands from handling the bare AL?
> 
> That seems to be normal when handling bare AL because of the constant formation of oxidization that rubs off easily.


 
No. It's polished with felt and compound, then with Autosol and a rag. We mainly use alu cooking pots and they don't stain either. The oxide layer doesn't rub of that easy.


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## saabluster (Nov 2, 2008)

Did you just get married or something? Looks that way going by your new avatar.


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## Hellbore (Nov 2, 2008)

StefanFS said:


> No. It's polished with felt and compound, then with Autosol and a rag. We mainly use alu cooking pots and they don't stain either. The oxide layer doesn't rub of that easy.



That's odd, I have had bare polished aluminum parts before that were polished to a mirror finish but when handled frequently, would stain your hands a little bit. For example an aluminum billet handle on a paintball gun or the tube of a regulator. The machinists I have talked to who do custom paintball parts generally avoid leaving things in bare aluminum because of this and because it scratches easily. Is this some harder alloy of aluminum or something?

Anyway it looks like you got some good throw out of that tiabolo, that's cool, a lot of the cheap P7 lights being sold right now (DX and KD) have pretty lousy throw compared to Cree and P4 lights.


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## StefanFS (Nov 2, 2008)

Hellbore,
it's not mirror polished. It still has structure from the deanodizing process. Mirrot finish is way too sensitive.


saabluster,
yes, I recently got married. With the woman I've been calling my wife for years...


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## saabluster (Nov 3, 2008)

StefanFS said:


> Hellbore,
> it's not mirror polished. It still has structure from the deanodizing process. Mirrot finish is way too sensitive.
> 
> 
> ...


Well congratulations then!


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Jan 17, 2009)

WOW! just WOW!

I have a couple cheap direct drive P7 lights now and WOW!

That A8 is just freakin' awesome!


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## wachtelhund (Jan 19, 2009)

StefanFS,
Please excuse my ignorance. I've been hangin out here for about two weeks and don't understand what most of you are talking about. If I under stand this correctly, you are using drivers to increase the current to the emitters while keeping the voltage at required opersting levels. Is this ture? I assume that it is and that is what boost the lumen output. Now to figure out how you select drivers and where to purchased them.


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## easilyled (Jan 19, 2009)

wachtelhund said:


> StefanFS,
> Please excuse my ignorance. I've been hangin out here for about two weeks and don't understand what most of you are talking about. If I under stand this correctly, you are using drivers to increase the current to the emitters while keeping the voltage at required opersting levels. Is this ture? I assume that it is and that is what boost the lumen output. Now to figure out how you select drivers and where to purchased them.



It is because a quad-die emitter is being used that has 4 dies instead of 1 die. (The SSC-P7)

The driver needs to be different as well in order to drive the current high enough for this emitter.

I would recommend you do a search on SSC-P7 as I'm sure you'll find this helpful in understanding this thread.


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## StefanFS (Jan 19, 2009)

wachtelhund said:


> StefanFS,
> Please excuse my ignorance. I've been hangin out here for about two weeks and don't understand what most of you are talking about. If I under stand this correctly, you are using drivers to increase the current to the emitters while keeping the voltage at required opersting levels. Is this ture? I assume that it is and that is what boost the lumen output. Now to figure out how you select drivers and where to purchased them.


 
I use two 'affordable' drivers that are available in a number of web shops. They are simple but very reliable. The goal is to keep the current at a level that doesn't make the light overheat. It also will keep the output in a somewhat flatter discharge curve instead of the quick drop of direct drive. There are other drivers available that do essentially the same thing. See the section about flashlight electronics.


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## Tatjanamagic (Nov 1, 2009)

Hello Stefan... Very nice thread...

Can U help unlightened people like me and tell how did U modify stock switch to get only single level.

Thanks...


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## Mettee (Nov 4, 2009)

the tiablo tail in modular, you can pull out the multi level switch and put in the simple reverse clicky that comes with other tiablo lights. IF you pull the tail apart you will see, you cant hurt it really. Just unscrew the plastic holder and the parts should come out.


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## ohaya (May 11, 2013)

Hi,

Sorry to resurrect a really, really old thread, but I just got a couple of Tiablo lights (garage sale at Illumination Supply) and while they're all working, I've been thinking about how I could get them "up-to-date". I got an A10G, ACE.G, and an A7. I actually like the A7 the best, but anyway, the first thing is they all have a light module (not sure what else to call it) and it's locked solid. 

I think that the top cover that surrounds the emitter is where to get access, but haven't figured out how to remove that without seriously damaging it.

The first (OLD) post in this thread seems to indicate to use a small screwdriver and a hammer? 

Has anyone opened one of these guys up, and if so, can you tell me how to do that (without damaging it)?

Thanks,
Jim


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