# Tools: Best Buys



## Chief_Wiggum (Mar 2, 2004)

Hey folks,

I thought this might be a good thread for everyone to share what they feel are their best buys for tools in a few price catagories. When I'm working on lights, I find some tools to be invaluable and can't believe I ever lived without them! 

Hopefully, this thread will help those new addicts spend their money /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

$0.00 - $50.00:
<ul type="square"> 
[*]locking forceps with curved jaws 
[*]set of small jewlers files 
[*]toothpics for mixing epoxy, poking, prodding, and prying 
[*]electronics/jewlery screwdrivers
[*]cheap DMM 
[*]pin vise 
[/list] 
$50.00 - $100.00
<ul type="square"> 
[*]rotary tool 
[*]qualtiy mill file(s) 
[*]decent drill press vice to double as small parts holder 
[*]quality set of drill bits 
[*]bench power supply 
[/list] 
Over $100.00
<ul type="square"> 
[*]Metcal 
[*]drill press 
[*]lathe /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif 
[/list]
I tried to list things in the order that I find to be most valuable. For example, if I were to recommend one item from $0.00 - $50.00 it'd be the locking forceps.

Please add! I'm interested to see what you guys are using in your shops.


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## wasabe64 (Mar 2, 2004)

How about:

0-$50
strap wrenches
leather patch (if you need to grip something in pliers/vise-grips)
Woodworkers clamps

All for holding aluminum while minimizing scratches/marring


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## tylerdurden (Mar 2, 2004)

Under $50:

good set of tweezers
jewler's vise
bench vise
dental pick

$50-100
articulating desk light with full-spectrum bulb and magnifying glass


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## Chief_Wiggum (Mar 2, 2004)

Man, time for me to go shopping /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Thanks, and keep 'em coming!


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## chalo (Mar 5, 2004)

Under $50-- 
no-name dial calipers
automatic centerpunch
knife section smooth file
swivel blade deburring tool
t-handle taper reamer

Chalo Colina


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## tylerdurden (Mar 5, 2004)

Cuticle clippers are good for flush cutting and are much smaller than regular end cutters. About $11 at any drug store.


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## Darell (Mar 16, 2004)

* Step drill (Unibit) in various ranges
* Gaffer's tape (MUST HAVE!)


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## Xrunner (Mar 16, 2004)

$0.00 - $50.00:
Worklight
Quetips
Alagator clips
Locking plires (like the medical/fly fishing ones)

$50.00 - $100.00:
Dremel w/ accessories

-Mike


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## tvodrd (Mar 16, 2004)

$1-100+ A bench vise and a bench to bolt it to. (Then bolt the bench to the wall/floor. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif )

Larry


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## gadget_lover (Jun 22, 2004)

I just bought a set of boring bars from ENCO. I was prepared to wait weeks like I do with harbor freight. They got here in 2 days. The order was complete and the parts were in a bag that was then nestled in packing peanuts. That's the best 
shipping method I've seen yet.


A set of 9 HSS boring bars with 3/8 inch shanks: $12. This will make some of my work much easier.


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## tylerdurden (Jul 14, 2004)

I just got a pair of "Surgeon's Splinter Forceps" from Micro-Mark. These things are AWESOME. It's like a combination of tweezers and needle-nose pliers. My new favorite tool.

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=60720


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## BIGIRON (Jul 14, 2004)

Simple emery board (for fingernails). 5 for .99 at the Dollar Store. Great for small filing and smoothing jobs. And you can do your nails when finished in the shop.


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## pbarrette (Jul 14, 2004)

Hi all,

I find that some of the tools that I use the most haven't even been mentioned yet:

$0-50
-----
X-Acto knife - A must have, IMHO.
Mini pliers set - Like this one.
Soldering Iron - I use this one, but any should do.
Sandpaper - Multiple grits, 80-450. Wet/dry works best for me.
Rubber bands - Various sizes, widths.
Metal snips - Like scissors for cutting sheet metal.

I use the xacto and mini-pliers constantly. For the mini pliers, I often use rubber bands around the handles to grip delicate parts firmly in situations where self-closing tweezers just don't work and locking forceps would crush the part.

pb


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## PEU (Jul 14, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
swivel blade deburring tool 

[/ QUOTE ] 

last week I purchased in an local expo a deburring tool for $3, what a nice tool, I did not know the existence of this kind of tool.







Pablo


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## tylerdurden (Jul 14, 2004)

Yes, an xacto is a necessity! I have three of them, all with different blades!

Micromark has the best #1 knife handle I've found for the money.

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=70236

BTW, this probe set is very useful for manipulating tiny bits while assembling:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=20124

And the mini-vise is great, too:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=80769

This 4-arm jig isn't as great as I had hoped, the arms are too hard to position accurately:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=60682


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## pbarrette (Jul 14, 2004)

Hi Tyler,

That knife is actually a clone of the X-Acto Gripster. I own the gripster and love it as well. Especially when cutting harder materials or using the knife to "bore-out" plastics, etc.

pb


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## cue003 (Jul 14, 2004)

wow, this is great info. keep the links coming. Now I know where to find stuff. 

thanks

Curtis


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## gadget_lover (Jul 16, 2004)

At this moment, Harbor Freight has a portable metal cutting bandsaw on sale for $57.49 It's item 47840-4mka. The bandsaw is variable speed and able to cut up to 4 inch stock. It weighs 15 lbs.

The blades to fit it are item 38757, $16. for a three pack.

I mention this because the Western Electric installers where I used to work used a similar bandsaw to cut ironwork, threaded rod, etc all the time. I don't have room for a full size fixed position saw.

Daniel

[ Edited to have the right part number and to add the following.]
You can still order this at this price by going to the harbor freight and select "order from printed catalog". I just tried it.

I used this for the first time last night. It cut through a 2 inch aluminum tube with 1/4 inch sides as if it was butter. A great buy for less than $60.

dan


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## milkyspit (Jul 27, 2004)

Out of all the tools I've bought in the past year, I'd say the most useful (just a quick list, probably forgetting something!) have been...

Dremel w/attachments! Gotta have the attachments! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I even bored out the top portion of an Arc LS 2AA battery pack so a SF E1E head would fit. Man, that was painful! But it worked. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
--> Buying advice: Ebay for the Dremel itself ($30?), Walmart for the attachments. (Averages $5 a pop... sky's the limit 'cause there are literally DOZENS of attachments! Start with at least one cutting wheel, one sanding wheel, one grinding wheel, and one wire brush, then continue as needed.)

Unibit. Good Lord, thank you, THANK YOU McGizmo for turning me on to that!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif It slices, it dices... er, it drills all sizes of holes, and drills 'em cleanly. Even deburrs edges and puts a little chamfer on the edge of the hole if you like. It's terrific!
--> Buying advice: Wherever you can find it... but buy THE REAL THING. It's worth the big bucks (well, maybe $20) in this case.

Metcal. Maybe you don't NEED a Metcal soldering station, but the point is to get a good quality setup to do your soldering. I can tell you from experience that it makes a BIG difference vs. the cheap stuff! It turned this hack of a solderer into someone who could actually pass for appearing competent. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
--> Buying advice: Ebay, baby! Very roughly around $100. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

DMM (Digital MultiMeter). My favorite is a Fluke 189 that I bought off ebay, but that one's expensive! For $30 you ought to be able to get something you really like. Even Craftsman has at least one nice one around that price in their product line. Make sure your DMM is capable of measuring 10A or more of current flow... I've found that's a good, quick test, because many of the cr*ppy DMMs can't handle much current.
--> Buying advice: Wherever you're comfortable. Sears Craftsman is fine, Circuit Specialists (online site) is fine. Ebay is ripe with used Fluke DMMs at a fraction of their original prices. Fluke is a great, dependable brand to have.

Small stuff. Too much to list! Get a good screwdriver. Home Depot sells a nifty little "Allway 2000V" one for something like $5 that's great because you can use the commonly-available hex-based bits in it, and it holds several in secure yet easily-accessible fashion in the handle. Get a good pair of small size needlenose pliers. Get some Vise Grips (locking pliers). Get a good pair of stainless steel tweezers with really narrow, sharp tips. Get a good hobbyist vise. On this last item, Sears sells a nice, all metal vise for about $30... looks like a rebranded Panavise.

That's it for now! Hope it helps someone. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## gadget_lover (Oct 30, 2004)

Currently on sale at Harbor freight for $6.99; 1 inch dial indicator, 2.25 inch diameter face. Item # 33675-2hfb

Also a handy tool for $12.49 Router speed control. Item number 43060-2hfb

thera re many other toys on sale /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Use the "order from catalogue" link to get this price.


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## gadget_lover (Feb 27, 2005)

I usually don't do this, but.....

There's a current auction for an older harbor freight 7x10 on E-bay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2594&item=5959651465

The auction ends Feb-27-05 20:47:04 PST

It's condition looks to be as good as mine.

Currently high bid is $274, buy it now of $325

Daniel


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## Rothrandir (Feb 27, 2005)

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sick2.gif


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## gadget_lover (Feb 27, 2005)

I know, Roth, but for a guy on a budget with no lathe at all, or wanting a cheap second.......


I have a newer copy of this lathe, and it's been a good one to learn on.

Daniel


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## tvodrd (Feb 27, 2005)

I'd like to sell mine (cheap), but no way I'm going to package it for shipment!

Larry


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## gadget_lover (Feb 27, 2005)

DIBS! DIBS! DIBS!

How Cheap, Larry? I know a few folks that would love to get into machining but don't have any cash to speak of. 

I'll send a PM.

Daniel


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## Chop (Feb 27, 2005)

Hey, don't laugh at those chinese imports. I've cranked a lot of decent work out on those. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## Rothrandir (Feb 27, 2005)

sorry daniel, i thought you were kidding. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

at the buy it now price, it's only $45 away from a brand new one, and considering that hf offers free shipping on all orders of $50 or more (or do they not do that anymore?), i'm not sure a rusted out machine is really worth whatever difference there might be.
or am i missing something here? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif


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## gadget_lover (Feb 27, 2005)

Roth, you are not missing a thing. If it held at $274, the extra $100 savings over list might have been enough to push one of our yearning brothern over the edge. Rust is not good, but if it's just surface rust it should be cleanable.

I think in the drug trade I'd be called a pusher. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Daniel


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## gadget_lover (Feb 27, 2005)

I picked up some ER32 collets for my 7x10. I also plan to use them with my micro mill. There's a guy selling them in E-bay in sets of 11.

I chose ER32 because 1) they go up to 3/4 inch and 2) they are shorter than the 5C which I was also considering. I understand the ER stands for extended range. A set of 11 collets handles from 3/16 to 3/4.

The 3/4 inch makes it suitable for the small Cr123 sized lights I tend to do.

The short length makes them suitable for use on my micro mill. It only has 9 or so inches between the quill and table, a touch over 7 inches between chuck and the table. I did not want a 4 inch high collet closer. I'll be making my own closer to use on the mill. 

I looked all over for an MT3 shanked ER-32 collet chuck to go in the lathe's spindle (in the head-stock). I finally found one at H&H industrial products for only $65 plus shipping. They also sell other shanks such as R8 and MT2

http://www.hhip.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=900-0005-077

It fits in the spindle of my HF 7x10 perfectly, and it sticks out only 1/4 inch further than the jaws of my 3 inch 4 jaw chuck. A collet wrench is not included, so I figure I'll be making one eventually. I have a wrench that will fit in the mean time.

Daniel


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## gadget_lover (May 19, 2005)

The harbor freight variable speed portable bandsaw is on sale for $57.49 again. The new item number is 47840-4ajb.

I described it in  post #625222.

Don't let the ugly color disuade you. The cut-off aluminum rod in front of the saw is 1.25 inch diameter and took less than a minute to cut.








Daniel


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## JimH (May 20, 2005)

Gadget,

Based on my experience with mine (bought on your recommendation), I'm surprised it took that long. This thing slices through aluminum like a hot knife through butter.


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## milkyspit (May 20, 2005)

Daniel, that HF portable bandsaw sounds interesting... but if you could, please address a few questions that have kept me from ordering one for myself. Does it do gravity feed, or do you need to hold it the entire time? Does it automatically shutoff when finished cutting? How do you hold the work piece stationary while it's being cut? Does it take a standard size of blade, meaning something I could pickup at Home Depot, for instance, in a pinch? How's the stock blade been holding up?

Thanks a gazillion for the answers! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

On a more general note, it's time for me to get a good cross slide vise to go with my drill press. Could somebody make a recommendation, and perhaps point me to one? That, too, would help me a great deal!

Okay, one more thing! I've FINALLY got a 10 inch sliding compound miter saw. FANTASTIC! Now could someone point me to a good non-ferrous blade for cutting through aluminum stock?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thank you, thank you all you tool gurus! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif


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## Lynx_Arc (May 20, 2005)

here is some more needed items:
test/clip leads for hooking up stuff to test before assembling
proto board for same thing I also set up arrays of LEDs on one to shine on the ceiling to see actual brightness without assembling at different drive currents. 
Magnifying glasses for working on tiny stuff or reading small numbers on components without removing them.
Scroll saw for cutting intricately small items with precision. 
Variable power supply
Isotip iron for soldering stuff quickly, heats up in less than a minute and can solder most small stuff, very portable.
Whoever mentioned the allway scredriver, I have 3 of them and I have retired most of my *unscrew the cap* magnetic tip screwdrivers because the slide out feature holds 3 tips in the handle and the one are using. Saves a lot of time fumbling. 
security bits, I got a container of various odd magnetic screw tips.. stars, etc for unlocking the stupid screws they put on irons, appliances, and other stuff supposedly to force you to pay for repair. Has about 50 tips in a plastic case and if you use it once you have paid for it.
shallow plastic trays for capturing parts of stuff when dissasembling them, you can buy them or even use washed out tv dinner trays. Keeps those tiny screws from wandering off when you bump the table.


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## gadget_lover (May 20, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*milkyspit said:*
Daniel, that HF portable bandsaw sounds interesting... but if you could, please address a few questions that have kept me from ordering one for myself. Does it do gravity feed, or do you need to hold it the entire time? Does it automatically shutoff when finished cutting? How do you hold the work piece stationary while it's being cut? Does it take a standard size of blade, meaning something I could pickup at Home Depot, for instance, in a pinch? How's the stock blade been holding up?

FANTASTIC! Now could someone point me to a good non-ferrous blade for cutting through aluminum stock?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif


[/ QUOTE ]
The band saw is hand held and portable. I clamp the metal bars to whatever is handy and bring the saw to the work. I frequently clamp the stock to the rungs of a heavy duty step ladder using those neat 'quickgrip' clamps.

You have to hold the saw the whole time that it's cutting. As JimH noted, it's really fast. I have no sense of time, but I can tell you that it went through 1/2 inch cold rolled steel bar in less time than the commercial on the raido.

For spare blades I just bought a pack of 3 from harbor freight. They are fairly cheap. They are the same size that the makita and milwalkee brands use. A google search for "portaband 44 7/8" brought up a lot of hits. The stock blade is 10-14 tpi (variable teeth per inch) bimetal.

I can't say how long the blade will last. I've had mine for less than a year, and I've cut several dozen times, ranging up to 3 inch 6061 aluminum and as small as 1/4 inch brass. I roughed out the shape of a spanner wrench made from 3/4 inch aluminum plate. I'm still on the first blade.

I've seen several post about using a circular saw for cutting aluminum, but it's a pretty scarry thing to do. The carbide points of the blade can break loose at high speed and fly like bullets. What I've read is that you put the blade on baclkwards, run it a slow as possible and cut nothing thick. BTW, DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME.

The bandsaw's achille's heel; it takes practice to get a good 90 degree cut. I always have to file, sand or face the end if I need a smooth 90 degree surface there.


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## gadget_lover (Jun 16, 2005)

Two updates:

*First*: I used the power portable bandsaw to cut through a 2.5 inch steel bar. It took only a few minutes. I was concentrating on cutting it straight, so I did not time it. I did cut it very straight due to a shoulder on the part that guided the blade.

The current sale price code ar HF is 47840-4ajb : $57.49



*Second*: The famous (or infamous) Harbor Freight 7x10 lathe is on sale for $369 again. Order # 33684-1wma

In both cases, use the "order from paper catalog" option.

Daniel


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## ABTOMAT (Jun 17, 2005)

Just out of curiosity, can anyone here compare the HF saw to a quality handheld bandsaw? I have the real one they copied (Porter-Cable variable speed deep-cut model) and it's a joy to use. Really throws the aluminum chips with a coarse blade.


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## gadget_lover (Jun 17, 2005)

I can only relate to what I remember of the Porter-Cable unit.

Like the P-C model, the HF is variable speed. It runs from 0 to 230 fps. It has 3 bearings to guide the blade. It uses more plastic than the P-C unit. It's quality is not as high as I remember from the P-C saws used by the installers where I worked.

The only part on mine that needed tuning up was the stamped metal part that bolts on to provide a support when cutting. It stops the saw from climbing across the piece you are cutting. The support was not quite at 90 degrees. A few minutes with a vice and pair of large pliers corrected that.

I've not changed the blade. I'm still using the stock one. I should have used a 24 tpi blade to cut the hunk of steel.

If I was using one for a business, I'd plop down the $300 or so for the P-C. Since I use it only occasionally, the HF works great at under $60.

Hope that helps.

Daniel


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## ABTOMAT (Jun 18, 2005)

Thanks. Good thing I only plopped $75 for the PC used.


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## cy (Jun 18, 2005)

Delta bandsaw and when I want to really get serious a powerhacksaw


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## Darell (Jun 19, 2005)

OK... all these posts about band saws is making me twitch. No, not a "best buy" but I have to share my new toy somewhere!






Doesn't help me make flashlights at all (yet) but it sure helps with the welding projects! Talk about simple perfectly-straight cuts! Heck, you don't even have to sit around waiting for it to cut.

more.


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## gadget_lover (Jun 19, 2005)

Hi Darell,

Love that band saw. I imagine at 400 lbs it does not tip over due to heavy stock!

Now I feel even more envy.


Daniel


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## cy (Jun 20, 2005)

Darrell, Nice band saw!!


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## ABTOMAT (Jun 20, 2005)

Nice saw. What do you think of the quality? I havn't used any of Enco's better range like that.

I also have a '50s Delta 14" bandsaw, similar to Cy's but mine's the rare wood/metal saw. Has a built-in oiled gear reduction gearbox. Currently undergoing an extended rebuild (read: in piles around shop while I get off my tail). I had a little '30s Craftsman power hacksaw. Traded it with some other stuff for a big stick welder.


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## Darell (Jun 20, 2005)

This thing has exceeded my expectations, actually. And so has Enco. I had two problems, and they rectified them immediately. GREAT folks to deal with and extrememly responsive. The saw itself was set up to cut perfectly plumb and square right out of the box. I just tightened the blade, added coolant and I was off to the races. I have a few bi-metal blades that I haven't even used yet, the stock "cheapie" blade is still going strong.

Man, how I love this thing! I only wish I could use it vertically without having to first screw the table on, but then that would be too easy.


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## tvodrd (Jun 20, 2005)

Darell,

What blade length does it use? If it's 93" (like my 7" Rutland) I may be able to do you another minor favor. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif <- attempted Don act. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Larry


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## ABTOMAT (Jun 20, 2005)

It should be a 93", at least if it's halfway normal.


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## gadget_lover (Jul 6, 2005)

I thought I would pass on a "not so best buy".

I hate cutting small rods with a hack saw. It's just a lot of hassle to cut it straight. I often have my vise surrounded by too much stuff that I have to clear before I can set up a 4 foot rod. Threaded rod always ends up with screwed up threads where I cut.

I saw this neat little saw in Harbor Freight and thought it would be the solution to my problems. The catalogue says it cuts steel, aluminum, wood, up to 1/2 inch.

Part number 42307-3CBH for $19.99. Link is
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42307







Now for the reality.

The saw is plastic, including the blade guard. The blade is a 2 inch HSS. The speed is constant, 7800 RPM. It clamps down to a table or work bench. Any pressure and the blade stalls. Aluminum clogs up the blade's teeth quickly. I think that's due to the speed. 

It cuts wood quickly and cleanly. It does fairly well on brass tubing. It cuts 3/8 inch 6061 aluminum very slowly, but it did get through. I don't remember what happened when I tried it with the threaded rod. I would remember if I was impressed.

The cut it makes is pretty clean, even for tubes.

I would not recommend this for metal working unless you are cutting small metal tube such as used for pens and models.

Daniel


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## PEU (Jul 6, 2005)

I found this one browsing the Harborfreight catalog: 34640-1RHB "50 PC.SOLID CARBIDE MICRO BIT GRAB BAG" $6.99 if ordered from catalog : 
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Basket.taf (press order from catalog button)

Bad thing is that the closest HF store is about 8000miles away /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


Pablo


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## Silviron (Jul 6, 2005)

I just ordered one of those HF carbide assortments a couple of months ago.... I guess it would depend on your particular use, but only four or five of the ones in my selection were anything that I'll ever use. Most of them are just old previously re-sharpened carbide PC board drills that broke again, and then they just ground the tip flat and put them in a box.


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## JimH (Jul 6, 2005)

Daniel,

I guess it's back to the old portable band saw. I made a cradle for mine so with the saw laying down the width of the blade is verticle - helps a lot making straight cuts. Thanks for the tip on this one - I use it all the time.


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## gadget_lover (Jul 6, 2005)

Hey Jim. That sounds neat. How about a beam shot of that cradle? It would go great in the 'bragging' thread.



Dan


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## PEU (Jul 7, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*Silviron said:*
I just ordered one of those HF carbide assortments a couple of months ago.... I guess it would depend on your particular use, but only four or five of the ones in my selection were anything that I'll ever use. Most of them are just old previously re-sharpened carbide PC board drills that broke again, and then they just ground the tip flat and put them in a box. 

[/ QUOTE ]

I would love to receive the ones you will never use Silviron! tell me a price! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif 

I like the smaller ones

Thanks


Pablo


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## Darell (Jul 7, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*tvodrd said:*
Darell,

What blade length does it use? If it's 93" (like my 7" Rutland) I may be able to do you another minor favor. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif <- attempted Don act. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


[/ QUOTE ]
Yes sir. 93"... or 7'9" is how it is stated officially. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif Can we PLEASE get the metric system here!? I typically *like* minor favors from Larry. What'cha got this time? I'm stocked up with like four bi-metal blades for the thing, but I'm all ears!


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## tvodrd (Jul 8, 2005)

I have 16 new blades that were thrown-out at work because they didn't fit anything. I just checked and they are 1/2", not 3/4 like my Rutland uses. They are also wave-set, fine tooth- maybe 24tpi. I think they will also fit my vertical saw. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif If you can use a few?

Larry


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## gadget_lover (Jul 9, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
Silveriron said...
I just ordered one of those HF carbide assortments a couple of months ago.... I guess it would depend on your particular use, but only four or five of the ones in my selection were anything that I'll ever use. Most of them are just old previously re-sharpened carbide PC board drills that broke again, and then they just ground the tip flat and put them in a box. 

[/ QUOTE ]

I happened to have one of those sets. Today I found a use for it. It worked great for drilling a very small hole for a #2 screw in hardened steel. I broke one before learning that it takes very, very light pressure. 

Daniel


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## Darell (Jul 11, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]
*tvodrd said:*
I have 16 new blades that were thrown-out at work because they didn't fit anything. I just checked and they are 1/2", not 3/4 like my Rutland uses. They are also wave-set, fine tooth- maybe 24tpi. I think they will also fit my vertical saw. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif If you can use a few?


[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks for thinking of me, Larry! I think I'll pass though. You can make some great knife blades out of bands though - great metal! But I think I've got what I need for now.


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## DavidR (Jul 13, 2005)

This is a great thread and I'm learning alot. I'm fairly new to flashlights and have not made anything...yet. 

My question is this: what are the tools that I will need to make a few sammies. I figured this would be a good place to start my flashlight making. Do most of you use jigs of somesort to keep them straight while the epoxy hardens?


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## Rothrandir (Sep 16, 2005)

i've spent *far* too much on tools in the last few months, but here are a couple things i'd recommend to any machinst wanting to buy some real good products...

noga magbase. they use a different type of arm, which is more easily positionable, allows more positions, and sets up quicker. about $60 from enco, but well worth it.
you'll also need a dial indicator for this. i bought a used one (amazing condition) from a gunshow just last week. brown and sharpe model 216, for $50. very nice indicator, but if it wasn't for that deal i'd have probably kept using the cheap chinese one i've had for a while now

brown and sharpe calipers. $80 from enco, and a better value than the $20 hf ones. these are the best you can buy. when i got them i took them to the inspection room and tested them thorougly, everything was accurate to within a few .000x.

another cheap source for various things is j & l industrial. particularly their "o zone" where they place overstocked merchandise. just bought $270 worth of odds and ends the other day for $90... :green:
you can search according to catagory, brand, or even discount (say, only display items with 50% discount or more for example)


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## bfg9000 (Sep 16, 2005)

I have the very cool Twin Cutter from Sears. It is a circular saw with counter-rotating blades so it does not try to roll over and away from your workpiece. Zips right through iron rebar and is held like an angle grinder, only a lot faster.

Milwaukee also has their awesome v28 cordless bandsaw that is as powerful as a corded tool. But it costs far more than even the Porter-Cable!


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## Darell (Sep 27, 2005)

Rothrandir said:


> another cheap source for various things is j & l industrial. particularly their "o zone" where they place overstocked merchandise.



Link? Can't seem to Google 'em up.


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## Haesslich (Sep 27, 2005)

Darell said:


> Link? Can't seem to Google 'em up.



Try http://www.jlindustrial.com/ - remember to use the quotation marks around "J&L industrial" so that it searches for the whole name and not just 'j AND l AND industrial'.


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## gadget_lover (Sep 27, 2005)

j&l is at 
http://www.jlindustrial.com/index.jsp

The 0-zone is linked from the home page.


Daniel


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## Darell (Sep 27, 2005)

Great. Thanks for helping me spend my money, guys.


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## Rothrandir (Sep 27, 2005)

hey, when you don't have any of your own, it's fun to spend someone elses


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## gadget_lover (Jan 15, 2006)

This is not so much a tool as a supply.

I came across these rolling scrapbook storage carts at Costco for $29. They are 16" wide x 14" deep x 25" high. The 6 individual drawers are plastic bins with locking tops. The drawers are 12.5 wide and 13 deep and 3 inches high.

I bought one on impulse to clean up / organize the shelf under my mill. I have a lot of tooling there in cardboard boxes. Every week or two I find myself emptying the boxes and vacuuming the swarf out of them. These boxes have plastic lids that keep the contents free of mess.

I found that it would be more helpful if I could open the box while they were partially pulled out of the shelf. I took a sabre saw and cut the lid in half. I taped the lid back together with that thick clear plastic packaging tape. It makes a pretty good hinge.

The cart seperates at any level by pinching a release on each leg. I have one set up as a roll around for my lathe tools, and the other broken down to matching 3 drawer sets for my mill area.

The set under my mill:







The hinged top:





The "Container store" has the same thing, I think sold as a "Scrapbook Cart.".
http://www.containerstore.com/browse/Product.jhtml?CATID=71774&PRODID=10012555


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## gadget_lover (Mar 9, 2007)

I found a full sized (RF30) milldrill in the SF bay area for only $600. It includes some collets, a stand and a vise. It's a $1200 value if it's in good shape.

I wish I had room for it, but I have neither the room nor the money, and my micro-mill is enough for now.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/289787600.html


Daniel


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## greenlight (Mar 9, 2007)

Nice storage setup.


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## wquiles (Mar 9, 2007)

gadget_lover said:


> I found a full sized (RF30) milldrill in the SF bay area for only $600. It includes some collets, a stand and a vise. It's a $1200 value if it's in good shape.
> 
> I wish I had room for it, but I have neither the room nor the money, and my micro-mill is enough for now.
> 
> ...


I also found one here recently, but at $850 it was more than I wanted to spend ($600 was my max and he did not even return my email). My new mini-mill for $480 or so should be "adequate" for now 

Will


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## gadget_lover (Mar 9, 2007)

Thanks Greenlight. I have 3 set of those drawers scattered around the garage now. One for the Mill's tooling, one for the Lathe accessories and tooling, and one for misc parts like safety goggles, optics, etc.


Back to the mill.

It's the 700 LB model, so it's quite beefy. It's not a really "full sized" mill since a full sized one would be like a bridgeport at 1,500 pounds. Even so, it can use a 1.25 inch drill or 3/4 inch end mill or a 3 inch face mill. That's significantly better than my micro mill 

Daniel


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## guntotin_fool (Mar 9, 2007)

I come to this as a contractor who does a lot of odd jobs, and I will say that i have never found a "cheap" tool to be anything but cheap. Good Tools, from good companies, last nearly forever, I have 50 year old sawzallz, 40 year old drills, 100 year old joiners that all work far better than what i can find for cheap.
I buy 

Milwaukee.
starrett.
Mitutoyo
Milton
baumann
Fein
snapon
etc,

When your bearings wears out after two years on your Cheap tool, try to find replacements. or when the switches go belly up. Try to find another, buying real cutters from amana or bosch and then use the cheap stuff, find out how long they last... 

This is a pet peeve of mine. I buy good tools and usually only have to ever buy that tool once. My 1947 rockwell knee mill still works, I replaced the switch about 5 years ago to a magnetic, but other wise its still running 60 years later. How many no name tools will be doing that ?

Buy good stuff, I have never heard a machinist or a mechanic or a carpenter ever say, "gee, i wish I had saved some money and bought a cheap ______ this good one works too well."


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## modamag (Mar 9, 2007)

It depends on how often you use the tool and what you use the tool for.

If you're rolling in $$$, and your job rellies on it, definitely go for the best.
However, if you have limited budget (most of us) and only use the toy once in a while or for hobby, it doesn't really justify.

So it all comes down to the purchasing rule ... "buy the best tool YOU can afford at that time"


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## emitter (Mar 9, 2007)

w/out repeating the above, and assuming you have the 'regular' stuff....

-Husky 8in1 precision screwdriver. $6 and well made. phillips #000 to #1 plus 4 flat heads. model 74501. used it to fix a $300 digital camera. 
See also model 74502 the torx cousin, T4-15 in 4 double bits. also $6 not for lites but handy. these 2 sets have replaced $40 of my old precison drivers. 
-Toolmakers vise (or drill press vise). $30ish?
-good safety glasses. 10 fingers but only 2 eyes. 
-4 AA holder, but add leads for 1, 2,or 3 cells, for prototyping o/c. 
-spring clamps and/or those little vise grip clamps but they cost more. for glue/epoxy jobs. 
-epoxy, not the cheap clear kind. 3m 2216 is tricky but awesome. probably expensive, mine was free and has lasted forever in the tubes. the cheap double syringes end up hardening at the tip. 
-RTV silicone. For holding wiring, water tight seals, etc. do not use on skin at halloween (or ever). trust me. 
-egg carton to hold little parts, in order. free attached lid good for labeling each egg^H^H^H part bin. 
-good shop towels, those blue ones. I've even dried them out and reused them. 
-isopropyl alcohol, 90% not the 70% kind. 

ok i know i'm listing consumables, but they really help a lot. everyone has drills and saws and stuff. the best things in life are free, and for free I've managed to acquire the following: Bausch * Lomb 3x stereoscope, Tektronix 355 mini oscope, Hexacon solder station, Edelstaal Machinex 5 lathe, and a medium size bench vise. Mostly from my pack rat engineer father.


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## gadget_lover (Mar 18, 2007)

A "best buy" for someone in the SF bay area....

A Harbor Freight 4x6 metal cutting bandsaw on craigslist. Still available as of an hour ago.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/tls/295698924.html

Daniel


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