# best AAA nimh batteries?



## kobebeef24 (Sep 13, 2009)

I am going to buy either an e01, ld01, or ITP EOS flashlight, which all take AAA batteries. I'm wondering what are the best AAA nimh batteries in terms of discharge rate, capacity, durability, and overall performance. Though the eneloop AAs are the top of the line batteries, I heard the eneloop AAAs are horrible. Can anyone steer me the right way for which AAA nimhs I should buy?


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## Burgess (Sep 13, 2009)

kobebeef24 said:


> . . . .I heard the eneloop AAAs are horrible.


 

Can you steer us to Your Source for this information ?




_


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## Bones (Sep 13, 2009)

I would hardly call the Eneloop AAA cell horrible, but they also don't seem to be as robust as their AA sized sibling.

It's been speculated that this is simply a consequence of their significantly smaller size and the fact that some chargers aren't optimized to charge AAA cells. However, since this applies to AAA cells generally, I believe the Eneloop still ends up being the best AAA sized cell as well.

For what it's worth, a set of four I put into service in late 2006 are still going very strong.


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## Turbo Guy (Sep 13, 2009)

My AAA Eneloops are very good as far as AAAs go. Problem with all AAAs is that they are small and thus less than 1/2 the capacity of AAs. In the cae of Eneloops AAs 2,000 mAh ,AAAs 800 mAh.


Have a look at the NiMH Shoot Out Threads

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/133440

Charles


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## MarioJP (Sep 13, 2009)

For 200mah more of the sacrifice of LSD would be total of 1000mah for AAA. That all depends what your application needs.


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## VidPro (Sep 13, 2009)

Bones said:


> I would hardly call the Eneloop AAA cell horrible, but they also don't seem to be as robust as their AA sized sibling.
> 
> It's been speculated that this is simply a consequence of their significantly smaller size and the fact that some chargers aren't optimized to charge AAA cells. However, since this applies to AAA cells generally, I believe the Eneloop still ends up being the best AAA sized cell as well.
> 
> For what it's worth, a set of four I put into service in late 2006 are still going very strong.


 
same here, i have some cells that were higher capacity, but they all suck after time and cycles, the mere 800ma enloops are now at a (less balanced) capacity that is higher than the 850s 900s and Psudo1000s
i am not thrilled with how well ANY of them maintain a balance of similar capacity, and longevity.

so which cell is better? the one listed at 1000ma that now eaks out 675ma or the one that is 800ma and eaks out 675ma ? :thinking:

notes: of each of them , some are more or less capacity, all wakey different, but when used in series, its all about "The Weakest Link" so even though i have 1000s that will still show 825ma , thier teammates will be as bad as 570ma , so the Team, is actually 570ma, with the poor weak link getting pulverised on to low of discharges again.


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## InHisName (Sep 14, 2009)

I've wanted AAA eneloops but most pricing was identical to the AA prices. I just could not stomach that. I found a vendor on eBay that supplied LSD NexCells called EnergyON AAA s for $13/8. They tested out to be 776MAH and still do many uses & 3 months later. 

Unfortunately, he is only selling in batches of 20 now. $33 ship included.
I think its $38 for AAs

If you're lucky in finding Duracell white top made in japan s at Target by 9/21 you can get 4/$6.45. I've been to 5 and they only have black top ones or are out of stock completely.


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## clintb (Sep 14, 2009)

InHisName said:


> I've wanted AAA eneloops but most pricing was identical to the AA prices. I just could not stomach that. I found a vendor on eBay that supplied LSD NexCells called EnergyON AAA s for $13/8. They tested out to be 776MAH and still do many uses & 3 months later.
> 
> Unfortunately, he is only selling in batches of 20 now. $33 ship included.
> I think its $38 for AAs
> ...


Please to be sharing the eBay seller's name.


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## vali (Sep 14, 2009)

If you dont mind waiting you can get some GS Yuasa Enitimes from DX. $8.34 for 4 of them. 

They are 750 (tested myself) and LSD. I am currently testing the self discharge and they hold the charge pretty well.


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## drmaxx (Sep 14, 2009)

kobebeef24 said:


> I am going to buy either an e01, ld01, or ITP EOS flashlight, which all take AAA batteries.
> I heard the eneloop AAAs are horrible.



The performance of AAA is in general horrible (not just eneloop). They are half the weight of a AA, but only deliver 1/3 of the energy. Many AAA flashlights operate with 3 AAA which are heavier then a single AA but without having substantially more juice in them.

Eneloops in general are not the highest capacity NiMH on the market. Typically the top performers have 25 - 30% more capacity. However, they usually have the disadvantage that they age faster and loose their edge rapidly with use and abuse.

Bottom line: The term >best< depends on your preferences. If peak performance is the most important point, then eneloops are not the best choice. If reliable long term performance is your priority then eneloops are an excellent compromise.
It seems that many on cpf prefer the second option.


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## InHisName (Sep 14, 2009)

Yea! I just checked my Target and after 8 days or out of stock, they had some. 6 packs, all white tops. I bought four. I left two for others going to Warrington,PA for them.

Started the first 4 on discharge to see how much % full they were. Then do a capacity check to see what I get.

I looked for a "mobile charger" by duracell but did not see any. No matter, I still have a good c9000. also an older maha240 when 4 isn't enough. 

btw, the AAAs are listed as 'Procter & Gamble' brand not Duracell in their search.


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## davidt1 (Sep 14, 2009)

I might have to back and see if I can get some more. At those prices they would make great gift along with an overnight charger and a decent flashlight for people who use flashlights.

My aaa Eneloops are fantastic. My Maratac aaa light takes a long time to run of out juice. I put a set of 4 right of the box in a heavily used remote control. They lasted a good 3 months before needing a recharge.


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## InHisName (Sep 15, 2009)

clintb said:


> Please to be sharing the eBay seller's name.


it is 'lowmarkup' search his store 'batteries' the white with blue lettering are the LSD cells. The ones with orange color are 2700 and NOT LSD.

I measured my 16 EnergyONs I got from him with my c9000 and put the data a few months ago here. I also measured the dynamic impedance measured by the Australian tester I bought earlier this year.


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## Albinoni (Sep 15, 2009)

kobebeef24 said:


> I am going to buy either an e01, ld01, or ITP EOS flashlight, which all take AAA batteries. I'm wondering what are the best AAA nimh batteries in terms of discharge rate, capacity, durability, and overall performance. Though the eneloop AAs are the top of the line batteries, I heard the eneloop AAAs are horrible. Can anyone steer me the right way for which AAA nimhs I should buy?





kobebeef24 said:


> I heard the eneloop AAAs are horrible



Really and says who ? Onbviously who you got this info off, knows jack poop about batteries. Eneloops are one of the best batts out there on the market and probably way ahead over the others. The other ones I also highly reccomend are the Imedions and PowerEx.


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## Ozgeardo (Feb 4, 2010)

I have been using both AA and AAA eneloops for about 3 years now.
Previously using primary Lithium's that were getting just too expensive.

In the field I use AAA extensively in my Garmin GPS 101 and my Petzl Tactica XP (modded with SCCP4). Also AAA, I carry a Fenix LOD for back up light in the field. Other than some Lithium Ion batts I require for mission specific equipment I only need to carry AAA's as spares (1 x set of charged batts in equipment and 6 spares usually see me through 8 days of field use. Plus I get to swap around batts if absolutely necessary,

Late last year I purchased a MAHA C9000 and have been paying attention to how my AAA eneloops have fair ed:

They are all still as good as new, they all hold charge for months when laid up and still perform excellently when fired up. They all maintain mid to high 700 mAh reading when refreshed/charged. 

My Tactica XP and Garmin 101 are the 2 most critical pieces of kit I use in the field and I work in a very adventurous/dangerous environment, have every confidence in my Eneloop AAA's.

I would dearly like to have a high end tactical "thrower" flashlight in 3 or 4 x AAA configuration to further enhance my interchangeability but those I have played with (Led Lensar P7) just do not cut the mustard against my TK11(R2) or M20 running on 18650's when I need big tough light for SAR etc.

If you need AAA NiMh then I will stand by Eneloops


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## MarNav1 (Feb 4, 2010)

Eneloop!


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## mfm (Feb 4, 2010)

Albinoni said:


> Really and says who ? Onbviously who you got this info off, knows jack poop about batteries.


There were some people here who did some unscientific tests and came to the conclusion that GP batteries were better...

I'm using Eneloop HR-4UTGA batteries and they work very well.


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## Frank E (Feb 4, 2010)

I've used Ansmann cylindricals for years with no problems. Their AAAs are rated at 1100mAh.


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## Tuikku (Apr 9, 2010)

About using AAA batteries in iTP A3...

I have some NiMh AAA batteries (700mah "HEIenergy", don´t ask, not a clue about are they quality or not).

On High, they can keep iTP lit about ~2-3minutes.
After that voltage is quite low but if you let the battery rest awhile, voltage rises.

On medium, iTP will give light about 10+minutes.
Low not measured yet...

Are my NiMh batteries bad on capacity, bad in giving enough current, both, or is this a normal feature?


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## Fulgeo (Apr 9, 2010)

I have 8 Eneloop AAA batteries, of which I have used 4 vigorously for more than a year. They are what I use in my pocket carry torches. They have proven to be a very robust cell. No failures and just a touch of bottom case indention. You would be well served by using Eneloop batteries. I also have 60+ AA Eneloops and have not experience one bad cell for two years. As a rule of thumb I use Eneloops for my AA & AAA needs and I use Accupower Evolution cells for my C & D needs. This modus has not let me down and I doubt it would let you down.


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## don.gwapo (Apr 9, 2010)

Eneloops are still the best IMO. I got 10 aaa eneloops on my lights and using them everyday for quiet a while now and they never let me down since day one.


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## Tuikku (Apr 9, 2010)

Tuikku said:


> Are my NiMh batteries bad on capacity, bad in giving enough current, both, or is this a normal feature?












Obviously I have a set of terrible batteries!! 
They weren´t even close as cheap as Eneloops via Amazon.



...but let´s not be too negative.
I bought my first EDC AAA light to carry it around at work. It gave decent light only for very short time ( now I know it was batteries, not the light). So I proceeded to different light hoping that I don´t have to use primaries.

First I was a bit frustrated. Now it feels this is just the beginning... :rock:


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## OCD (Apr 9, 2010)

I bought my Maratac AAA in late February and bought a 4pk of white-top AAA Duraloops to go with it.

I burned through the 1st battery in one week from playing with and showing off my new light. 

I still have the 2nd battery in the light and its still going strong. That still leaves two spares that I haven't even charged yet. At this rate, I'll probably only be charging them twice a year or so.

I would not hesitate to recommend the Duraloops to anyone (and in fact I have...UPS should be delivering my dad his Maratac and I told him to get the Duraloops) and if the Eneloops are as good or better, you can't go wrong!


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## mcnair55 (Apr 9, 2010)

I use a brand called Instants here in the UK,have done since 2005 and have no issues what so ever in AA or AAA,they power everything nearly I own,my highest drain item is my DAB radio and I charge the Instants up every Friday after work.I have just bought a batch of the 2010 range of Duracell ready charged in AAA for stock so not got round to using any yet.


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## fishinfool (Apr 10, 2010)

When doing a C9000 Refresh and Analyze on AAA eneloops, what charge and discharge rating do you guys use? 
Do you use the default ratings? 

Thank you.


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## rollcage (Apr 10, 2010)

I have bought soshine, eneloop and Gsyuasa Enitime, I found that enitime are very good, and LSD, and if you want non-LSD 100mah go for Soshine.

Gsyuasa Enitime @ DX not priced too much should be a good buy.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19278

I dont know if there is any good charger at DX thought! havent bought any, anyone know which one? I have 2 dumb chargers, one is EveryReady and other is Sanyo I think. want to replace those

regards


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## Monocrom (Apr 11, 2010)

Only B&M shops where I can buy eneloops are the ones where you have to buy a membership in order to shop there. 

Generally, the so-called savings aren't worth it. I found the next best thing. Yup, rebadged eneloops . . . Duracell cells with White Tops, Made in Japan. Found them at Rite-Aid. 

I keep three AAA Duraloops in my Princeton Tec EOS headlamp, in my car. Keep another AAA Duraloop in my Maratac model.


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## McAllan (Apr 12, 2010)

Bones said:


> I would hardly call the Eneloop AAA cell horrible, but they also don't seem to be as robust as their AA sized sibling.
> 
> It's been speculated that this is simply a consequence of their significantly smaller size and the fact that some chargers aren't optimized to charge AAA cells. However, since this applies to AAA cells generally, I believe the Eneloop still ends up being the best AAA sized cell as well.
> 
> For what it's worth, a set of four I put into service in late 2006 are still going very strong.



I believe the reason for AAA not to seem as robust as the AA might have to do with what charger people use.
Over the years I've had many rechargeable AAA's. While a charger such as the C9000 is very fine for AA it seems to me a bit rough on AAA. Especially the Ri check. Many non high current cells which works perfectly fine in many other chargers and non high drain applications are refused by the C9000. They might work fine while new but just a year old or so and they're refused.
The cells I've been forced to charge with my Conrad Charge Manager 2010 (bought around 2000) generally seems to last and perform much better. It doesn't do a violent Ri check and charge pulses are much faster - and still rejects alkaline etc.
Even many cheap chargers seems to be more gentle to the AAA then the C9000. Of course the problem is to pick the right one as there's much junk in that price segment.

Had some ancient Varta 200 mAh NiCd cells which I've just recycled - or actually I still have them in my "recycle box" - Just for fun I measured the capacity with the CCM 2010 and they were still over 200 mAh not much below when they were new - and that's even with 0,5 C discharge as it's the lowest the CCM can do.
Also recycled some GP 850 mAh AAA which are being notoriously rejected by the C9000 - but charged fine in a cheaper charger such as my Tecxus TC6000. Can't remember the capacity the CCM stated but just remember they actually wasn't that bad considered the age and C9000 "high" reject. But they and the Vartas got recycled of convenience as I wanted to replace them by LSD cells.


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## Ozgeardo (Apr 12, 2010)

fishinfool said:


> When doing a C9000 Refresh and Analyze on AAA eneloops, what charge and discharge rating do you guys use?
> Do you use the default ratings?
> 
> Thank you.


 
I don't think anyone has answered your question yet, however there are some comments that the C9000 is too "robust" on the AAA's :thinking:
Note: the default settings on Refresh and Analyze (1000/500 mAh) I believe are default for typical AA batts not AAA (someone correct me if I am wrong)

FWIW : I have had considerable success using eneloop AAA's and my C9000 

For Refresh and Analyze with Eneloop AAA's I charge at 400 mAh and discharge at 200 mAh (roughly 1/3 of that of AA per manufacture instructions if I have calculated them correctly). As I have previously mentioned I use my AAA's in mission critical equipment. They have not let me down yet. I have 5 x 10 day trips coming up in the next 6 months and I will use my Eneloop AAA's charged on my C9000 with every confidence. Any problems and I will be the first to post back on here. (The AAA's I will be using have all been used on 20 plus x 10 day trips over several years).

I am currently keeping a record of all charging cycles and usage of my field batts and hopefully at the end of this year I will have some very detailed results.


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## aim54x (Apr 12, 2010)

I vote Powerex Imedion AAA or Sanyo Eneloop AAA.

I am using Powerex Imedions and they just keep going in the Fenix E01 that it they are being used in.


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## shark_za (Apr 12, 2010)

I have had good results with Duracell active charge "duraloops" as well as Uniross Hybrio LSD's,

Also get good mAh out of Uniross "performance" cells rated at 1000mAh. 

Again if I know I'm going to use the light a lot and drain them in a day or two then I use the Uniross 1000's.
If they are going in my lanyard iTP A3 or E01 then its a Hybrio or Duraloop for maximum capacity after a few weeks. 

Had bad luck with Energiser 850mAh rated AAA's they are dead flat after 2-3 weeks.


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## LeifUK (Apr 12, 2010)

This link might be of interest: 

http://translate.google.com/transla...=N&start=30&rurl=translate.google.co.uk&twu=1

It's a test of some AA and AAA LSD NiMH cells.


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## fishinfool (Apr 12, 2010)

Ozgeardo said:


> I don't think anyone has answered your question yet, however there are some comments that the C9000 is too "robust" on the AAA's :thinking:
> Note: the default settings on Refresh and Analyze (1000/500 mAh) I believe are default for typical AA batts not AAA (someone correct me if I am wrong)
> 
> FWIW : I have had considerable success using eneloop AAA's and my C9000
> ...


 Thank you very much Ozgeardo! I'm very new to all of this and still ask newbie questions every now and then. Those rates are what I'll use on my AAA'a from now on. 

I also like your idea of 'keeping a record of all charging cycles and usage of my field batts' and would like to know how detailed your records are so I can base mine on it. Thanks again!


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## vali (Apr 13, 2010)

In the "everfast" thread I put a link to a spreadsheet I use to track my cells. I dont know if it will be useful to you, but take a look at it if you are interested.


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## fishinfool (Apr 13, 2010)

Thanks vali, I'll check it out.


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## blkcamarozr28 (Apr 13, 2010)

aim54x said:


> I vote Powerex Imedion AAA or Sanyo Eneloop AAA.



I use both the Imedion and Eneloops for my headlamps and they been working great. I tend to stay way from the non LSD batteries as they tend to always be dead when I need them. :twothumbs


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## TakeTheActive (Apr 14, 2010)

*Newbie 'Questions & Answers'...*



fishinfool said:


> When doing a C9000 Refresh and Analyze on AAA eneloops, *what charge and discharge rating do you guys use?*
> Do you use the default ratings?





fishinfool said:


> ...*I'm very new to all of this and still ask newbie questions every now and then*...


You find lots of Newbie 'Questions & Answers' in my Sig Line LINK. Take a look! 



fishinfool said:


> ...I also like your idea of 'keeping a record of all charging cycles and usage of my field batts' and *would like to know how detailed your records are so I can base mine on it*...


For example:
*Maintenance: Labeling Cells and Keeping Records*​


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## ampdude (Apr 26, 2010)

For those that aren't doing this, I think you'll have the best luck with AAA's in the C-9000 if you charge them at 500ma, instead of the default 1 amp setting.

I have some cheap Rayovac NiMh AAA's that I use in my Sunlite Slim 3AAA and they work well, but none register in capacity above 750mAh, they range from about 690-740mah.


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## alpg88 (Apr 27, 2010)

imo, the best aaa would be lithiums, but they are not rechargable


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## ampdude (Apr 27, 2010)

To me AAA lithiums are very special use. And I haven't yet found a use for them. I'm still trying to figure out what to use my few AA lithiums for. The best thing I've come up with is backup to my camera's regular NiMh batteries, but I usually have a spare set of those as well. A four pack of AAA lithiums is as expensive as a four pack of decent rechargeables, but if every ounce counts, or you don't use the device that often (emergency EDC or something like that) I say heck yea.


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## TakeTheActive (Apr 27, 2010)

ampdude said:


> For those that aren't doing this, I think you'll have the best luck with AAA's in the C-9000 if you charge them at *500ma*, instead of the default *1 amp* setting...


:thinking:

Why would anyone KNOWINGLY charge 800mAh AAAs @ 1000mA (1.25C) on a C9000? 
.
Why even consider charging 800mAh AAAs @ 500mA (0.625C)?
(*ESPECIALLY* on a C9000 with it's FIXED "100mA for 2 Hours Top Off") :devil:
.
If you own the '*practically ultimately variable*' (by 100mA  ) C9000, why wouldn't you charge 800mAh AAAs @ 400mA (0.5C) *OR LESS* (depending on the heat developed)?


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## fishinfool (Apr 27, 2010)

*Re: Newbie 'Questions & Answers'...*



TakeTheActive said:


> You find lots of Newbie 'Questions & Answers' in my Sig Line LINK. Take a look!
> 
> 
> For example:
> *Maintenance: Labeling Cells and Keeping Records*​


 
I know it's been a week and a half too late but :thanks: TTA. 

I don't care what everyone around here says about you.......you're alright in my book. :naughty:


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## TakeTheActive (May 1, 2010)

*Re: Newbie 'Questions & Answers'...*



fishinfool said:


> ...*I don't care what everyone around here says about you.......you're alright in my book*. :naughty:


I have a *VASTLY* different '*perspective*' of public forums compared to the majority of forum participants - I see:
(The majority of) **MY** replies as '*Database Entries*', i.e.
*Timeless...*
Constructed as "Complete-as-Possible" answers with SEARCHABLE titles
Taking substantial TIME (from several minutes up to over an hour) to compose
.
(The majority of) **OTHERS** replies as '*Blog Entries*', i.e.
*Momentary...*
Constructed as (usually) "Incomplete" answers with (usually) NON-SEARCHABLE titles
Taking minimal TIME (a few minutes) to compose

Thus, my personal choice for spending (sometimes HOURS!  ) FORMATTING, proofreading, etc...
For example:
*ALL* of my LINKs are *TAGGED (TEXT plus URL)* vs *RAW (URL only)*
- *IF* the URL ever changes (due to a database error or forum software upgrade/change), the FUTURE user can *ALWAYS* still SEARCH on the TEXT of the original post's title. ​


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## JaguarDave-in-Oz (May 2, 2010)

*Re: Newbie 'Questions & Answers'...*



TakeTheActive said:


> I have a *VASTLY* different '*perspective*' of public forums compared to the majority of forum participants - I see:
> 
> (The majority of) **MY** replies as '*Database Entries*', i.e.
> (The majority of) **OTHERS** replies as '*Blog Entries*', i.e.
> ...


As an "other" I do it the "other" way because I see myself wanting to take part in a discussion forum, not be a contributing writer to an online encyclopaedia. Different stokes I guess.


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## shark_za (May 2, 2010)

The biggest problem with the anus carrota method is the assumption you are 100% correct and definitive on the subject. 
The rest of us just give inputs and allow the interactive questioner to make his/her own mind up.


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## TakeTheActive (May 2, 2010)

*Re: Newbie 'Questions & Answers'...*



JaguarDave-in-Oz said:


> TakeTheActive said:
> 
> 
> > I have a *VASTLY* different '*perspective*' of public forums compared to the majority of forum participants - I see:
> ...


Yep. It all depends on the EFFORT *YOU* wish to expend...

*BLOG* vs *DATABASE*...

Now, I'm not saying *ALL* BLOG-type entries are incomplete; nor am I saying *ALL* DATABASE-type entries are complete; I'm just saying "What I Do..."


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## TorchBoy (May 2, 2010)

*Re: Newbie 'Questions & Answers'...*

TTA, is that last database entry incomplete without you quoting someone quoting you? Does it really need to be there?


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## JaguarDave-in-Oz (May 2, 2010)

shark_za said:


> The rest of us just give inputs and allow the interactive questioner to make his/her own mind up.


That, to me, is the most effective way that any issue can be fully explored and to my mind is the whole raison d'etre for "forums".

And for what it's worth I have had very acceptable performance from my Imedion AAA's and charge them at 700 on my Maha. I'd rather miss a little cycle life than have them miss a termination.


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## TakeTheActive (May 2, 2010)

shark_za said:


> *The biggest problem with the anus carrota method is the assumption you are 100% correct and definitive on the subject*...


Since *GOOGLE: "anus carrota"*

found *NO* entries, I'm going to '_ASSUME_' you posted that as an insult.  [CPF management frowns on personal attacks...]



shark_za said:


> ...*The rest of us just give inputs and allow the interactive questioner to make his/her own mind up*.


Poor "*Interactive Questioner*" - should s/he believe "*Joe Blow*" or "*Joe Know*"?  - How do they pick / determine who's who???


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## TakeTheActive (May 2, 2010)

*Re: Newbie 'Questions & Answers'...*



TorchBoy said:


> TTA, *is that last database entry incomplete* without you quoting someone quoting you? *Does it really need to be there?*


When you QUOTE someone, either QUOTE them *COMPLETELY* or indicate any portions that you've intentionally omitted. Otherwise, you're (possibly) presenting their original statements "Out of Context"...

"*Quality*" vs "*Quantity*"... Where do YOU stand?


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## Bat_Deals_99 (May 17, 2010)

I have been using Lenmar R2G Batteries for the last 2 years. 
I was hesitant at first and only purchased a 4 pack of AA and AAA batteries.

I first tested them out with the BC900 and actually received batteries that have a higher capacity then posted on packaging. 

After using the batteries I would recommend them.
Batteries stay charged for a long period of time and don't break the wallet. 
AA Batteries 2150mAh | Tested 2245mAh
AAA Batteries 850mAh | Tested 1250mAh

I picked mine up at thomasdistributing.com for a low price.
http://www.thomasdistributing.com/s...g+batteries&osCsid=a98rm8a91donrsllit8gi3gna7


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## ampdude (May 18, 2010)

TakeTheActive said:


> :thinking:
> 
> Why would anyone KNOWINGLY charge 800mAh AAAs @ 1000mA (1.25C) on a C9000?
> .
> ...



The first time I charged them, I left it on the default setting, not realizing I was charging the AAA batteries at well over 1C. I thought I'd mention it because sometimes people make mistakes like that.


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## Egsise (May 18, 2010)

Bat_Deals_99 said:


> I have been using Lenmar R2G Batteries for the last 2 years.
> I was hesitant at first and only purchased a 4 pack of AA and AAA batteries.
> 
> I first tested them out with the BC900 and actually received batteries that have a higher capacity then posted on packaging.
> ...


Welcome to CPF, and congratulations, no rechargeable AAA cell can go that high.


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## TorchBoy (May 18, 2010)

I've heard the BC900 gives higher figures than the MH-C9000 but that's a bit too high. Is it the charge capacity, not the discharge capacity?


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## ampdude (May 18, 2010)

I don't think I've ever seen or heard of an AAA cell that tested above 1000mAh. That 1250mAh figure has got to be off somehow.


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## TakeTheActive (May 18, 2010)

Bat_Deals_99 said:


> ...*I first tested them out with the BC900 and actually received batteries that have a higher capacity then posted on packaging*...
> 
> AA Batteries 2150mAh | Tested 2245mAh
> AAA Batteries *850mAh* | Tested *1250mAh*


Being a "Newbie", are you possibly confusing La Crosse BC-700 / BC-900 / BC-9009 ACCUMULATED Capacity with DISCHARGE Capacity? 

You can RTFM, or do a GOOGLE SEARCH (CPF Only) on *accumulated discharge capacity taketheactive* 

:welcome: CLICK on my Sig Line LINK for LOTs of useful, informative "Newbie" LINKs.


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## TakeTheActive (May 18, 2010)

ampdude said:


> *The first time I charged them, I left it on the default setting, not realizing I was charging the AAA batteries at well over 1C*...





ampdude said:


> For those that aren't doing this, *I think you'll have the best luck with AAA's in the C-9000 if you charge them at 500ma*, instead of the default 1 amp setting...


And I'm pointing out that "...*on a C9000 with it's FIXED "100mA for 2 Hours Top Off"*...", even 500mA may be a bit high and users should START OFF with 400mA (0.5C) and check the amount of HEAT developed towards the end of the charge.


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## ampdude (May 18, 2010)

I have a Sony "CycleEnergy" smart charger that charges batteries in the two AAA channels @ 640mA per channel so I figured that 500mA on the C9000 shouldn't be a problem for quality AAA cells.


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## TakeTheActive (May 18, 2010)

ampdude said:


> I have a Sony "CycleEnergy" smart charger that charges batteries in the two AAA channels @ 640mA per channel so I figured that 500mA on the C9000 shouldn't be a problem for quality AAA cells.


*640mA -> Trickle* != *500mA -> 100mA for 2 hours -> Trickle* 

The point I'm making is that AFTER the completion of a 500mA (0.625C) charge, on the C9000 there's a MANDATORY 100mA (0.125C) charge for 2 hours that folks in the CPF Archives have stated COULD continue to heat the cell.

The goal is to recharge the cell without OVERCHARGING (i.e. proper termination) *AND* without OVERHEATING (i.e. proper current selection).


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## ampdude (May 18, 2010)

TakeTheActive said:


> *640mA -> Trickle* != *500mA -> 100mA for 2 hours -> Trickle*
> 
> The point I'm making is that AFTER the completion of a 500mA (0.625C) charge, on the C9000 there's a MANDATORY 100mA (0.125C) charge for 2 hours that folks in the CPF Archives have stated COULD continue to heat the cell.
> 
> The goal is to recharge the cell without OVERCHARGING (i.e. proper termination) *AND* without OVERHEATING (i.e. proper current selection).



In the break-in mode if you set the cell to 1000mAh, you basically get the same effect for many hours after the cell is fully charged. I did set it to 900mAh when I did the break-in mode on the new AAA Rayovac platinum cells. When it was overcharging the cells at 90mA for all those hours I observed no heat buildup to speak of.

Oh, and they all registered 760-790mAh, so I'll probably set it to 800mAh next time I do a break-in mode with those cells.


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## TakeTheActive (May 18, 2010)

ampdude said:


> In the break-in mode if you set the cell to 1000mAh, *you basically get the same effect for many hours after the cell is fully charged*...


I disagree.

In BREAK-IN (800mAh AAA), you're supplying (80mA) 0.1C for 16 hours TIMED. In CHARGE, you're supplying 500mA (actually 450mA if we want to get 'too technical'  ) UNTIMED / UNTIL TERMINATION (-DeltaV, MaxV, MaxTemp), then you're supplying an additional 100mA for 2 hours TIMED. If the cells were warm or hot at termination, then you're going to continue heating them, albeit slower, for another 2 hours.

One example of a CPF Archived discussion on this: *Maha MH-C9000 Wizard One Charger - Post #42*

If YOUR AAA cells don't heat up at 500mA in the C9000 or 640mA in the Sony, that's all well-and-good for YOU. I'm just providing additional information for the reader to make his own 'informed' decision from. 

WAY BACK in Post #38 you stated your OPINION:


ampdude said:


> For those that aren't doing this, *I think you'll have the best luck with AAA's in the C-9000 if you charge them at 500ma*, instead of the default 1 amp setting...


and in Post #41 I posted mine.
​


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## ampdude (May 20, 2010)

TakeTheActive said:


> I disagree.
> 
> In BREAK-IN (800mAh AAA), you're supplying (80mA) 0.1C for 16 hours TIMED. In CHARGE, you're supplying 500mA (actually 450mA if we want to get 'too technical'  ) UNTIMED / UNTIL TERMINATION (-DeltaV, MaxV, MaxTemp), then you're supplying an additional 100mA for 2 hours TIMED. If the cells were warm or hot at termination, then you're going to continue heating them, albeit slower, for another 2 hours.
> 
> ...



Hmm, okay the reason I mentioned that was because I thought you said that there is a 2 hour 100mA charge to the cells regardless from the C9000 as a topping off charge. So I thought, why would it hurt the cells if they are being topped off at the same current as the topping off charge for awhile longer. The C9000 manual states that this low current charge should not hurt the cell.


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