# How to disable mutli mode on this driver (driver pict included)



## ong_edward (Apr 10, 2014)

hi i got this 5 mode (hi-med-low-???-???) c8 flashlight that always turn mode every time i press the switch no mater how long interval in between.
is there any way to remove 4 other modes on this driver board?
i've attach the picture. please kindly advise me.

thank you


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## Tiresius (Apr 10, 2014)

I ran into this same problem with a sipik sa8. However, my conclusion requires a lathe. I simply machined my own collar, press-fit it into the host and make sure the collar is tight enough to fit an AMC driver. There, I can select the presets I like


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## ong_edward (Apr 11, 2014)

thank you for your advice, but im lost here... 
what i need is an electrical solution, a bypass or maybe another electrical solution to force my driver to start at 1st mode every time or something similar to directly power my emitter without using another 4 modes. its really annoying that i have to press my pressure switch 4 times in order to get hi mode every time. 

sorry for my poor english... :candle::candle::candle:


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## m4a1usr (Apr 12, 2014)

I tried playing with this same issue myself 6 months ago for the same reasons. I wanted only a couple modes and wanted to get rid of the SOS and Strobe functions. I came to the conclusion (by experimentation) that the only change you can make is to make the driver board a single high only. An EU CPFer stated that if you take the batt positive and solder it directly to the bottom right leg it would only function in high. 

While I have not tried it myself if you decide to do this mod I would like to hear your follow up. Like Matt said when and if feel like modifying my C8 lights I would just end up installing a Nanjg AK47 and choose the 3 mode out put.

You might want to check out this thread since it appears to have a driver that might work in your application. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...shlight-drive&highlight=changing+driver+modes


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## MRsDNF (Apr 13, 2014)

You could try drawing a pencil line heavily from one end of the capacitor to the other joining the shiny ends. The capacitor is the one in the middle with the shiny ends and slightly different colour. The heavier the line the harder it will be to change modes. It should always start on high with this mod.


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## Justin Case (Apr 13, 2014)

If you can find a datasheet for the CX2829 IC, that would probably help. Presumably, that chip drives the multimodes. If you know which pins are Vcc and PWM (control), then probably de-soldering the IC and then connectng Vcc and PWM together with a jumper wire will give you single mode in high.


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## ong_edward (Apr 23, 2014)

MRsDNF said:


> You could try drawing a pencil line heavily from one end of the capacitor to the other joining the shiny ends. The capacitor is the one in the middle with the shiny ends and slightly different colour. The heavier the line the harder it will be to change modes. It should always start on high with this mod.



i tried this one. it really did become 1 mode, but it seems to stuck on med instead of high. i'll try to clean swab the pencil mark and reset to high mode and redo.

many2 thanks


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## Lord Muzzy (Apr 23, 2014)

ong_edward said:


> hi i got this 5 mode (hi-med-low-???-???) c8 flashlight that always turn mode every time i press the switch no mater how long interval in between.
> is there any way to remove 4 other modes on this driver board?
> i've attach the picture. please kindly advise me.



http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?383491-Magic-smoke-and-missing-modes-Mystery!!

Worked for me!


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## kosPap (Apr 28, 2014)

Justin Case said:


> If you can find a datasheet for the CX2829 IC, that would probably help. Presumably, that chip drives the multimodes. If you know which pins are Vcc and PWM (control), then probably de-soldering the IC and then connectng Vcc and PWM together with a jumper wire will give you single mode in high.



guys look what i found will searching for the chip datasheet
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1068168
(last post)


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## m4a1usr (Apr 28, 2014)

Hmmm,......? Found this http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&prev=/search%3Fq%3DCX-5120-03D%26biw%3D1280%26bih%3D740&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=zh-CN&u=http://detail.1688.com/pic/1229618592.html&usg=ALkJrhgL8bv1-JZ9MO7b75lBZOAx_cv8kA

And if you google variations of CX-5120- you find different 20mm driver boards. Some 3 mode, others the 5 mode.


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## m4a1usr (Apr 30, 2014)

Well the answer in short is yes. Remove the cap and the driver becomes an single high mode. Great to know!


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## cyro (Oct 22, 2014)

Hi! I'm new here.

I was reading about removing modes in led flashlights and came across this thread. We have almost identical components on driver board with the TS except I don't have the memory. 





I have already removed the 4.7uF capacitor, but still have the 3 mode. (High, low and blinker)

I've tried the pencil technique on the capacitor before and after I removed the capacitor, still get the 3 mode.

I've also moved the negative wire on each "OUT-" before and after I removed the capacitor, still get all 3 modes.

I don't know anything about electronics, I just know how to solder.

Help me please. I want high mode only.

BTW this is a POLICE brand Ultrafire SK clone. it says 12000w on the side.

Thanks


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## m4a1usr (Oct 23, 2014)

cyro said:


> Hi! I'm new here.
> 
> I was reading about removing modes in led flashlights and came across this thread. We have almost identical components on driver board with the TS except I don't have the memory.
> 
> ...



There's no reason you should have multi modes with only the components shown in the picture. There's only a regulator and some resistors on the side showing. Pry the driver board off the aluminum holder (be gentle and carefull not to damage anything) and look at the side not shown. I bet on the other side there is another set of electrical components like a 6 or 8 legged chip and a large capacitor close by it. Take the cap off. You'll have a single mode


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## cyro (Oct 24, 2014)

thanks for the reply m4a1usr

There is nothing on the other side of the board, just the spring.

Yesterday while still searching for clues, i came across this
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/...7Ux8j3smm-aLgDuBROxJaOxg6lZ-qX6RdOBQqsroJwL58
*
image tags removed from hot linked image - Norm*

from here http://forum.eepw.com.cn/thread/257701/1/

Exactly same driver board but we have different different IC, mine has cx9309 while his has cx2859

What I though was a mosfet, was actually a 3 level PWM dimmer IC
according to this site http://www.jamesgibbard.co.uk/electronics/cheapledtorchrepair

Now I'm thinking of removing that IC and just put a jumper across it to bridge the (-) path to the resistors.

Will my idea be ok or will it just burn the LED? What if I just directly plug the led to the switch with 18650 3.7 battery bypassing all the resistor.

Thanks


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## cyro (Oct 24, 2014)

Sorry Norm

anyway heres the pic




Additional question.

When I'm going to remove the cx2859 then bridge the (-). How and where am I going to solder, how do I know which leg of the IC is the negative and which leg goes to the resistors?

Thanks


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## Illum (Oct 25, 2014)

cyro said:


>



If you hacked it down to that and you're still getting modes, its not the driver you should be looking at, there might be electronics in the tailcap responsible for it. Unless there's a reverse side of this board There's nothing left to cut out. As for the 4.7uF cap being unsoldered, I have no idea why this is done, it doesn't accommodate modes. Its a Decoupling capacitor to snub the initial rush of current when switched on that can cause damaging voltage spikes that are much higher than the input voltage.



cyro said:


> When I'm going to remove the cx2859 then bridge the (-). How and where am I going to solder, how do I know which leg of the IC is the negative and which leg goes to the resistors?
> Thanks



Does this help?


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## cyro (Oct 26, 2014)

Illum said:


> If you hacked it down to that and you're still getting modes, its not the driver you should be looking at, there might be electronics in the tailcap responsible for it. Unless there's a reverse side of this board There's nothing left to cut out. As for the 4.7uF cap being unsoldered, I have no idea why this is done, it doesn't accommodate modes. Its a Decoupling capacitor to snub the initial rush of current when switched on that can cause damaging voltage spikes that are much higher than the input voltage.
> 
> 
> Does this help?



Got it thanks. Worked for me. :twothumbs


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