# Flashlight made entirely of wood



## The Dane (Feb 1, 2010)

Got my greacy tentacles on some iron wood (Guaiacum officinale) today, enough to make something like a 2D or 3C M*g lookalike.

What say you?

Formfactor, lightengine etc.


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## Magic Matt (Feb 1, 2010)

My girlfriend and I were walking around a DIY store last week and I was caught making comments along those lines when looking at some of the wood. It has the potential to look absolutely superb, but I think it would need to be an incan because there's no realistic way to get rid of the heat unless you go for active cooling.

I say go for it!


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## wingnut86 (Feb 1, 2010)

Wood works well for the Incandescent type.

I actually have my own wood prototype turned out of Maple, works quite well too. It's similar to a 6P type, and thats as much as I can say....


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## jabe1 (Feb 1, 2010)

I would do something smaller, with an underdriven XP-E or XP-G so heat is not as much of an issue.


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## spencer (Feb 1, 2010)

What is this wood? I can't find anything about it. Is it just really hard? If so it would be cool to make a flashlight out of it.


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## Magic Matt (Feb 1, 2010)

Try searching on 'Guaiacum officinale' as you wont find many listings under 'iron wood'. I think it's the heaviest and densest wood in the world.


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## The Dane (Feb 1, 2010)

Used for police batons amongst other things.
On sailing ships it was used for pulleys because it is so hard and the natural oil content is so high that it is self lubricating. The high oilcontent also deters fungus and bugs.


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## lctorana (Feb 1, 2010)

Sounds rather like a Scandinavian equivalent to Lignum Vitae.

The closest Australian timber would be Tuart (which is protected and effectively unavailable).

I'll watch developments with great interest.


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## old4570 (Feb 1, 2010)

Ive seen pens and mechanical pencils made from wood ..
So certainly can be done .. 

Make a brass heatsink thats countersunk into the wood , should handle a SSC P4 or Cree Q5 ...


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## DIWdiver (Feb 1, 2010)

Magic Matt said:


> Try searching on 'Guaiacum officinale' as you wont find many listings under 'iron wood'. I think it's the heaviest and densest wood in the world.


 
'Iron wood' comprises a number of species, the hardest and densest of which is ipe, also known as pau lope, brazilian walnut, and some other names I don't recall. Info is readily available by searching on 'ipe wood'

It's readily available from several online decking supply places in sizes from 4/4x3 to 6x6 and larger, and can be ordered by local lumber yards if they don't have it in stock. 

I just built a deck out of it. From my experience it might make a nice light, but there are a few drawbacks that you probably won't find out about until you work with it...

It tends to tear when planing, which I guess it would also do when turning on a lathe, so you may need to experiment with the right tools. Crosscutting creates tiny slivers that cling to the cut edge and will easily penetrate the toughest skin, only to be found a day or so later when the irritation sets in. Also the pigment that makes it such a beautiful color is water soluable. I found for the deck the best thing was to let it weather a little bit, then seal it. While it starts with a nice smooth finish, after weathering even a little it gets an open grain like oak (though finer), so if you want a smooth finish, you'll need to fill the grain. I suspect finishes won't stick well unless it's weathered a little.

D


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## DIWdiver (Feb 3, 2010)

DIWdiver said:


> 'Iron wood' comprises a number of species, the hardest and densest of which is ipe, also known as pau lope, brazilian walnut, and some other names I don't recall. Info is readily available by searching on 'ipe wood'


 
I later realized that the scientific name quoted is actually for Lignum Vitae, not Iron Wood. They are very different. Sorry for the off-base post.

D


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## Magic Matt (Feb 3, 2010)

The Dane said:


> Formfactor, lightengine etc.



Ok, you might think this strange, but I don't think LED is right for this. Being all wood it's going to look antique-ish and so I think a high-tech LED look would be wrong - a more traditional incan setup would look nicer, yet could still be very surprisingly powerful.

I think 3C, because the wood is going to be heavy, so that would reduce the weight a bit, and also give you more oomph to drive the incan.

Possibly with a maritime sort of look? Something based around the look of a ships wheel at the business end maybe?


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## John_Galt (Feb 3, 2010)

I would still go with LED, but maybe a high CRI, Warm tinted LED. And a good brass heatsink. Realistically, this isn't going to be your go-to light, it will be something to show off, and so I would also want to show true colors, and have a more "incandescent" tint.


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## greenLED (Feb 3, 2010)

Heat management is going to be a bear on a wooden light.


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## souptree (Feb 4, 2010)

I would use brass for aesthetics and heat management. You'll have a very steampunk-ish light!

Please post WIP pics. Sounds like a great project. :thumbsup:


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## The Dane (Feb 4, 2010)

Thanks for input guys, maybe some steampunk thing is the way and that will "legalise" the use of brass and copper.

Should be fun.


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## lctorana (Feb 4, 2010)

I haven't the foggiest notion what "steampunk" might mean, but a dark wood, like cocobolo, with a narrow brass head, side switch and tailcap would really be very pretty indeed. Say 3C in size.

Just my 2c.


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## Trashman (Feb 4, 2010)

http://www.fitzsu.com/wood-flashlight-p-7064.html


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## josie (Feb 4, 2010)

A tricky thing might be making the threads for a tailcap - large fine threads in wood don't really hold up too well. But if it were rechargeable, the tailcap wouldn't need to ever come off to change batteries...
A couple of brass buttons on the side could provide contacts for a charger, and wouldn't look out of place on the wood. Or you could go crazy and try an induction charger!!!
To connections at all! Just some thoughts.

-Joe


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Feb 4, 2010)

A few threads have dealt with wood lights:


the Areaware "Jonas Damon"
the Koa Wood 9P and 6P
I want a wood flashlight


We're glad you have good wood. :naughty:


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## will (Feb 4, 2010)

lctorana said:


> I haven't the foggiest notion what "steampunk" might mean, but a dark wood, like cocobolo, with a narrow brass head, side switch and tailcap would really be very pretty indeed. Say 3C in size.
> 
> Just my 2c.



I have made a number of wood covered bodies and heads over the last few years. Just a couple of gotcha's on wood lights and working with wood. Cocobolo is a really beautiful wood. easy to work with on a lathe and finishes up really nice. One comment about cocobolo ' You are either allergic to the dust, or you WILL be ' Do a google search on this wood and you can read all the precautions you should take working with this wood. 

Any threading you do should be coarse by nature, fine threads don't really work well with wood. The wood pen kits you see are wood covered brass inserts, maybe other metals, but the wood is applied over a metal base. 

You still will need some metal to carry carry the current from the batteries to the bulb (or LED ) 

My own preference as to size. I like the lights no bigger than a 6P or 9P size. bigger than that reminds me of a 2x4 , but , that is my personal taste. 

I did a number or lights using Desert Ironwood. This wood tends to splinter, it is a brittle wood. If you turn it on a lathe, the last few cuts should be small. Then sand to the final size. Boring out the body to accept C or D batteries might be a challenge. This depends on the size of the lathe you have available. Also, consider the wall thickness of the finished body.

It should prove to be an interesting project. Please post pictures as you complete various steps.

will


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## The Dane (Feb 4, 2010)

Trashman said:


> http://www.fitzsu.com/wood-flashlight-p-7064.html


That is as pretty as a toilet plunger :eeew:


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## lctorana (Feb 4, 2010)

The Dane said:


> That is as pretty as a toilet plunger :eeew:


Glad you said it. I was a little afraid to offend.



will said:


> I have made a number of wood covered bodies and heads over the last few years. Just a couple of gotcha's on wood lights and working with wood. Cocobolo is a really beautiful wood. easy to work with on a lathe and finishes up really nice. One comment about cocobolo ' You are either allergic to the dust, or you WILL be ' Do a google search on this wood and you can read all the precautions you should take working with this wood.
> 
> Any threading you do should be coarse by nature, fine threads don't really work well with wood.


But there are degrees of coarseness. Both Millers Falls and Goodell Pratt perfected hollow wooden handles for hand drills ove 100 years ago, and both found out that you can make a *much* finer thread with cocobolo than with ordinary hardwood (whatever that means in USA).

As an owner of several of these machines, I can tell yuou the difference is quite marked - less than 1/8" pitch with cocobolo versus nearly 1/4" pitch with the lesser species.


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## alpg88 (Feb 4, 2010)

lol, i guess i,m not the only one with this idea, i too want to make a wood light someday. but i'd like to use veneer, different kind\color sheets, thou i don't want simple round shape, i'm thinking lantern\searchlight shape.
veneer would be stronger than wood, wont crack along the grains, and wont warp from heat, moisture. 
I'm thinking led, definitely p7 , Cree, and since i already making something unique might as well go creative, 
few mounts ago i build a light for my g.f. one of a kind light, i used body from 6d searchlight from 60's, bought 2 3c mags, cut the heads off, and use tubes to hold batteries, cut off reflector and put in 1 Cree drop in 230lm, for a throw, 10 10mm .5w leds for flood, 9 red 5mm leds, and 8 385 nm UV leds, and 70 mw blue laser. the light still needs some minor works, like switch guard, have to attach handle, and install rings for shoulder strap.
now i want to do something even more crazier out of wood. but with limited time i have now, it will take a while.


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## pc_light (Feb 4, 2010)

lctorana said:


> ..wood, like cocobolo, with a narrow brass head, side switch and tailcap would really be very pretty indeed. Say 3C in size.



Not solid wood but something like this ... 

 beauty created by CPFer PEU sounds a bit like what Ictorana indicates.

That's a picture of when it was new, the wood has aged and darkened since. It's too heavy (and too nice) to EDC because of the brass insert/body but the heft is nice and I keep mine on my office desk within easy reach.


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## swtxtitan (Feb 4, 2010)

I made an all wood light once........Then i left it laying around and my dog pissed on it :huh: It was never the same after that.



PS J/k


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## pc_light (Feb 5, 2010)

swtxtitan said:


> I made an all wood light once........Then i left it laying around and my dog pissed on it :huh: It was never the same after that.
> PS J/k



...what happened, did the tint turn warm-white?!


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## jinx626 (Feb 5, 2010)

If the wood is light enough, then it will float on water if you accidentally drop it in the lake when you go fishing. That would be neat.


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## lctorana (Feb 6, 2010)

True, but (perversely enough) the specific timbers we have discussed so far are all much heavier than water...


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## TooManyGizmos (Feb 6, 2010)

Considering heat .... why not just make the battery tube from the wood - keep a metal head .
.


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## The Dane (Feb 6, 2010)

Just messed with a sliver in the lathe.

The largest (most corase) threadding i has at hand is 1/4BSP(19), and i cut the threads as i would do POM or alu!

This cuts almost like POM but the swarf tends to clog due to high oil contents.















Unfortunatly the "Big Stick" i got was 34cm~13"long x 5,5cm~2"wide but only 2cm~3/4"thick :mecry:
So no light before i have scavenged a bigger stick.
Because of the woods high natural oil content it cant be glued:shrug:

Some trivia: In Danish it's called Pokkenholt derived from the old German Pockenholz. Pocken = Small pox and Holz = Wood, because "tea" cooked with slivers of the wood was "effective" for treating syphilis, small pox and boils.


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## spencer (Feb 6, 2010)

Cool. Would those threads be tight enough to be waterproof or are they too sloppy?


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## The Dane (Feb 6, 2010)

Way to sloppy, but then again titanium, steel and Alu all use O-rings so why should "The Stick" be without


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## Magic Matt (Feb 6, 2010)

The Dane said:


> Unfortunatly the "Big Stick" i got was 34cm~13"long x 5,5cm~2"wide but only 2cm~3/4"thick :mecry:



Could you make a 2AA light then? Sounds like a lovely mini project in preparation for the big beasty.


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## alpg88 (Feb 6, 2010)

spencer said:


> Cool. Would those threads be tight enough to be waterproof or are they too sloppy?


 teflon tape


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## The Dane (Feb 7, 2010)

Magic Matt said:


> Could you make a 2AA light then? Sounds like a lovely mini project in preparation for the big beasty.



What innards and formfactor?


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## Magic Matt (Feb 7, 2010)

I don't know, you're the expert! LOL!

Something along the lines of 4Sevens Quark AA2 innerds, but shape wise more like the Preon. Give it a brass ring top and bottom to protect the ends, and a brass clip? I have no idea what's possible, I'm just giving you ideas. I'm in awe of anyone that can make stuff.


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## The Dane (Feb 7, 2010)

Magic Matt, we'll take this "off line"


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## nativecajun (Feb 8, 2010)

Magic Matt said:


> Try searching on 'Guaiacum officinale' as you wont find many listings under 'iron wood'. I think it's the heaviest and densest wood in the world.


 

Actually Lignum Vitae ? spelling It sinks when thrown in the water. This is the wood they used in making the sole of old hand planes and also they use this stuff as bearings. I was maintaince forman for a printing press and this stuff actually held up better than bronze. I had to change some out on some old machines and you could actually still buy the wooden bearings. This before 89 though so who knows. 

I will have to do a search on the spelling and facts but yes Lignum Vitae ? (spelling) is the hardest and densist wood. Not much on spelling I am. Of course that does not mean that is the best for making stuff with. I think something with a very tight grain like cherry would do nice. Of course stability would be a large factor. You do not want a big crack in a year or so going down the body of the light. Maybe look in to some paka woood. Resin impregnated wood and very stable.

I was actually correct on the spelling. And here is an article about the wooden bearings still used and made this day. Made with Lignum Vitae

http://www.plantservices.com/articles/2005/469.html

Actually in reading the article I see that the person I quoted above was right. Evidently Lignum Vitae is a common name for (Guaiacum Officinale, Guaiacum Sanctum) And it has natural oils in it so this may not be the right choice for flashlight making.


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## Magic Matt (Feb 8, 2010)

Does that mean I'd need to oil it now and then with Lem Oil or similar, like I do my guitar fretboard? Should it be polished with furnature polish? Spray it with a mist of water once a month?

It would be a showpiece light, certainly not an EDC.


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## will (Feb 9, 2010)

The Dane said:


> Because of the woods high natural oil content it cant be glued



Woods that are high in oil content can sometimes be glued. You have to clean the area to be glued with lacquer thinner to remove all the surface oil. Then use something like Gorilla glue. I have done this procedure a lot with Cocobolo and it works fine. Gorilla glue expands when it hardens, it will seep out of the joint like foam. Also, Gorilla glue needs moisture to cure. I wipe the parts with a damp cloth, then spread the glue.

I made these up - the mini-mags are Koa wood from Hawaii.







these are Solarforce L2 lights.
Zircote, amboyna burl, amboyna burl, koa, macadamia.


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