# Bringing my E2E back to life.



## thermal guy (Nov 11, 2018)

With all the new Dropin’s and Million Lumen lights of today I sometimes forget how great my older lights are.I have a very old E2E probably 2005 fitted with an E to C adapter that I carried for years. I was going through my box of old stuff and found a P60 that I had for my old 6P. Put her in with 2 fresh primaries and I got to tell you I had forgotten how bright and how good the throw was! Brings back memories of when I first got into lights. In fact this was my first “expensive “ light I ever bought. I’m thinking of grabbing a Malkoff M60W to put in it to kinda duplicate the incandescent beam. Old is sometimes good! 😀


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## Timothybil (Nov 11, 2018)

If you want to get back to the E2 head, Lumens Factory as several LED and Incan lamp modules for the E-series lights.


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## thermal guy (Nov 11, 2018)

I was thinking about it but want this to be kinda bomb proof as well so looking at the leds. And maybe a little brighter. Thinking with the M61Wll I will get the best of both worlds


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## fyrstormer (Nov 11, 2018)

Now run that 6P incan some more and watch those primary cells wither and die in a half-hour.  LEDs don't just let us have super-bright lights, they also let us use a lot less power to get the same light.


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## thermal guy (Nov 11, 2018)

Lol oh I’m well aware of that. Spent many of my hard earned dollars buying sf 123 before the led came into being.


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## DUQ (Nov 13, 2018)

fyrstormer said:


> Now run that 6P incan some more and watch those primary cells wither and die in a half-hour.  LEDs don't just let us have super-bright lights, they also let us use a lot less power to get the same light.



Get out of here with that blasphemous tongue :twothumbs


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## thermal guy (Nov 13, 2018)

Lol god I remember when Fenix came out with there little led fed by a 123 think it was the pd10 maybe. It was small a Keychain light and when it first came out LEDs were kinda just taking off well they compared this little thing with a sf 9p with beam shots and that Fenix killed that 9p! I was soooo impressed with LEDs from that point on but still when I use my incadencense lights now don't have many but when I do between the throw and the color I get hooked again. It's just that Dam runtime that kills it for me.


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## fyrstormer (Nov 14, 2018)

DUQ said:


> Get out of here with that blasphemous tongue :twothumbs


I don't type with my tongue.


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## Timothybil (Nov 14, 2018)

fyrstormer said:


> Now run that 6P incan some more and watch those primary cells wither and die in a half-hour.  LEDs don't just let us have super-bright lights, they also let us use a lot less power to get the same light.


Lumens Factory has a couple of D26 (aka P60) incan drop ins that are designed to run on 3.7v. 16550 incan at full output anyone?


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## thermal guy (Nov 14, 2018)

I’m looking at them wondering if they have the throw and color of the p60.if so I’m all set cause I will have the best of both worlds. So ya anyone got experience with these Dropins??


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## fyrstormer (Nov 15, 2018)

They're incandescent drop-ins, so the tint should be pretty much indistinguishable from the stock Surefire incandescent drop-ins. There's only so hot you can get a coil of tungsten wire before it melts, after all.


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## thermal guy (Nov 16, 2018)

Well yes that is what I’m thinking but it seems that the brightness is an issue. Sf p60 states 65 lumens. Lf Dropins are 120-190 lumens and people have stated that they don’t look as bright. I will be using a 16650 as they now have more capacity then the older 17650. I think one is listing bulb lumens the other out the front.guess I’ll just grab a few an see what’s what.


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## ven (Nov 16, 2018)

Tarik's singLED is another option, available in several flavours(maybe down to 3000k). 





Small/tight hot spot similar to the OE surefire bulb














http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...T-SingLED-modules-for-Surefire-incan-E-series


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## thermal guy (Nov 16, 2018)

Thanks! That’s what I’m looking for. Tight hotspot with long throw.


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## scout24 (Nov 16, 2018)

Lumensfactory lumens are approx. 2/3 of stated when compared to SF lumens. And the smaller reflector won't throw quite as well. That said, E series goodness is :thumbsup:

PS- I've not met a single cell incan yet with that nice white overdriven color temp we all know and love. Close, but not quite. Nothing wrong with a bit of yellow though.


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## Timothybil (Nov 16, 2018)

Long, long time ago, when all I owned was my G2, I swapped my P60 for a Lumens Factory HO-6. I saw no difference in the color temp between the two lights, but the HO-6 was noticeably brighter. Being a newbie at the time, I was using the standard two CR123 for power. Thus began my love affair with Lumens Factory.


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## fyrstormer (Nov 17, 2018)

thermal guy said:


> Well yes that is what I’m thinking but it seems that the brightness is an issue. Sf p60 states 65 lumens. Lf Dropins are 120-190 lumens and people have stated that they don’t look as bright. I will be using a 16650 as they now have more capacity then the older 17650. I think one is listing bulb lumens the other out the front.guess I’ll just grab a few an see what’s what.


Lumens Factory also makes bulbs that are RCR-compatible, whereas Surefire's E-series incan bulbs don't support RCRs.



scout24 said:


> PS- I've not met a single cell incan yet with that nice white overdriven color temp we all know and love. Close, but not quite. Nothing wrong with a bit of yellow though.


You *could* get that nice white overdriven color temperature using a RCR cell with a bulb designed for slightly lower voltage, but running any incan that hard is hell on the filament. You'd need a soft-start switch to keep from popping the filament the first time you turn it on. (I learned that the hard way.) Does anyone even make an E-series soft-start switch?


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## euroken (Nov 19, 2018)

I’m running SF MN02 bulbs on 16650 in my e2d. I believe MN03 will work also.


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## night.hoodie (Nov 20, 2018)

I find 3V incan output to be about the most used/useful output, so I run 1600mAh NiMh 2/3A  cells in my E2e, with a couple magnet spacers, using Tad A3712. Great runtime and very steady output. I use other brightnesses, just not nearly as much as 3V. MN03 is still available and does fire on lower voltages. But Tad Customs sells brass E-sockets for his bipin Xenon lamps of various voltages, and thus is irresistible, though technically not "bomb-proof" like SF product, Tad's product does fantastic anyway. I like MN01, but very difficult to find. I use Lumens Factory HO-E1A with 1xAA, but recently discovered 2xAA with Tad's A6010 is twice as bright for twice as long, but still a level far below typical 3V output. I am experimenting with brighter setups, but so far anything above what Tad's A3712 puts out on a single IMR has been beyond overkill. I have a fistful of well-regarded High CRI Yugi 5mm LED that will work with 3V without a driver in Tad Customs socket (safely stored sitting in a package at a previous address) that I am anxious to get my hands on in due course. Tad Customs lamps for his E-socket max at A7212, for 2xIMR or 3xCR123A, 200lm. That sounds lame... but in practice the output is steady and it's bright... sometimes wow! bright! depending on circumstance. McGizmo has pictures on his site showing an E2e where he removed the bezel to add an o-ring to increase the distance from the lens to the lamp socket, allowing him to install a G2 halogen 1000lm lamp. fivemega sells custom E-series 1000lm incan 18mm tube lights. Keeppower now sells excellent high amp hybrid IMR18350 cells with high capacity, 1200mAh. I hope this gives OP an idea that though an LED drop in is one single option for upgrade, multiple upgrade paths exist and can be taken simultaneously... E2e, you know?


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## thermal guy (Nov 20, 2018)

While I’m waiting for a few incandescent Dropins to come in I put a M61W in her. Omg love it might just go with that.


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## kelmo (Nov 22, 2018)

My house light is a E2e with an MN02 LA. Just scored on a bunch of Streamlight/Surefire primaries and I'm burning through my old stock. This time of year is incan season!!!


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## bykfixer (Nov 24, 2018)

Nothin' beats that old SureFire module but.... 

I find the lumens factory stuff is a pretty good substitute. 

And a 1amp Tana singLED in 3000 flavor is outstanding at providing a nice pre-krypton beam tint. Set it to start on 25% and you have a real winner.

I keep oem in my olive 4 flats, lumens factory in my clickys and a Tana in my beater.


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## fivemega (Nov 24, 2018)

scout24 said:


> I've not met a single cell incan yet with that nice white overdriven color temp we all know and love. Close, but not quite. Nothing wrong with a bit of yellow though.


*A single IMR 26650 cell will slightly overdrive an Strion bulb in bi-pin socket. Obviously needs custom body but run time will be way longer that any other single cell.*




night.hoodie said:


> I find 3V incan output to be about the most used/useful output, so I run 1600mAh NiMh 2/3A  cells in my E2e, with a couple magnet spacers, using Tad A3712. Great runtime and very steady output.


*To run a 3.7 volt bulb, your best choice is single 16650 (2500) as long as fits in E2e tube.
Voltage under load is still higher than pair of 2/3A and capacity also higher.*


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## night.hoodie (Nov 29, 2018)

fivemega said:


> *To run a 3.7 volt bulb, your best choice is single 16650 (2500) as long as fits in E2e tube.
> Voltage under load is still higher than pair of 2/3A and capacity also higher.*



You're right, of course, that would be more efficient, give better runtime... and I do at times run similar setup, but then if the light is too bright, I don't use it as much at night. If I could find a more efficient lamp for "3V," or 2 eneloops I'd run it. I know of Lumens Factory HO-E1A 3V, but its too bright, too... I run that with 1xAA. I know it is almost sacrilege to underdrive lamps, but I'm ok with it. I wish there was an efficient yet dim 2.8V 0.6A lamp I could source.


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## fyrstormer (Dec 4, 2018)

Can't you just use a stock Surefire E1E bulb for that purpose?


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## thermal guy (Dec 4, 2018)

I went with the EO-4. 190 lumens 3.7 volts. It looks EXACTLY like the stock p60 from sf.So when I want to run it it won’t cost me an arm and a leg.

I also got th EO-6 200 lumens 6 volt. Now that has the same throw/output imo but with a hotspot 4 times the size. I like that one as well.


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## night.hoodie (Dec 8, 2018)

fyrstormer said:


> Can't you just use a stock Surefire E1E bulb for that purpose?



Yes, they are ideal, but MN01 are hard to come by....


Nice picks thermal guy. LF is quality.


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## bykfixer (Dec 9, 2018)

Man, I remember before my first E reading all this E2, E2 stuff over and over and was like "what is the big deal here?" 

One day a second hand E2d arrived and I thought "look at the cute little... (Pushed on button) Holy Retina Scorch Batman, now I see whatz the big deal". 

I like to imagine a time when a policeman was shown an E2 way back in the days when a 6D light was required to have a good out put. 
Pushes twisty button and grins ear to ear saying "mwew-ah-ah-ah-ah, those creeps aren't going to know what hit 'em".
Back then the word "creeps" was used a lot.
(Watched a bunch of 80's cop movies yesterday and they all used the word creeps a lot)


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## thermal guy (Dec 9, 2018)

When I bought my e2e back in 2004-2005? I asked the sales guy how it compared to a min mag. He just laughed and said you’ll see. When I got it I turned it on and got exactly what he meant. What the hell did I know back then.

Oh and the 80s were the best especially for the movies


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## AVService (Dec 9, 2018)

Still Love the Oveready Triple Copper E2E myself!










I also have a few Malkoff M61n & w in varying output levels and they make a terrific light for me,I have long since realized I am willing to sacrifice output for runtime in general use but then that is where lights like the can copper triple come in too.


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## ven (Dec 9, 2018)

Love it AV, although without the cu, love the E triple


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## bykfixer (Dec 9, 2018)

Which one today?
Not always an "E" z choice...


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## thermal guy (Dec 9, 2018)

Very nice collection you got there.


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## ven (Dec 9, 2018)

bykfixer said:


> Which one today?
> Not always an "E" z choice...






 WOW


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## novice (Dec 18, 2018)

bykfixer,
It seems like it wasn't _that_ long ago (and that is a phrase that we seniors use a lot...) that you had posted about waiting for your _first_ e-series SF incan to arrive in the mail. Holy moley...


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## bykfixer (Dec 18, 2018)

One day it rained E series lights. 

When that first one arrived, an E2D it was game on for about a month. At some point a few Vital Gear samples were added and some Lego took place as well.

My favorite E is still that E2D, but I found a body with a 2 way clip and installed a singLED.


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## peter yetman (Dec 18, 2018)

AVService said:


> Still Love the Oveready Triple Copper E2E myself



You Sir, are one lucky fellow.
P


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## thermal guy (Dec 18, 2018)

I think it’s the form factor.the E2d/e2e is just the right size to put in a pocket and plenty bright enough to work. It was my first quality light I bought. And on that note is there a way to date Surefire Lights by There serial number? I can’t really remember what year I got it in.


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## archimedes (Dec 18, 2018)

thermal guy said:


> .... And on that note is there a way to date Surefire Lights by There serial number? I can’t really remember what year I got it in.



No, those numbers are not strictly sequential, in the sense that might be expected.

There were some very old posts discussing this. Various parts were made in different facilities simultaneously, and later assembled "out of order" , among other issues.


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## thermal guy (Dec 18, 2018)

Oh. Ok well I got it just when sf was changing from the teardrop model I'm thinking 2004-2005. That about the time they did this? Maybe even 2003.


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## scout24 (Dec 18, 2018)

I wish we could date by year, instead of Teardrop, Two flats, and Three flats. C'est la vie... I consider all of them gold. 😁


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## thermal guy (Dec 18, 2018)

I agree however I figure it it is at least 15 years old. And looks like it to. 😊😊


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## night.hoodie (Dec 19, 2018)

thermal guy said:


> I agree however I figure it it is at least 15 years old. And looks like it to. 😊😊


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## thermal guy (Dec 19, 2018)

Lmao. Exactly


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## ven (Dec 20, 2018)

Fantastic, nice background as well


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