# What lubricant?



## CandleFranky (Jan 9, 2008)

What lubricant do you use for the threads? Have a link?


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## ptirmal (Jan 9, 2008)

I just use dielectric grease since I have it around the house and it's what I use on the contacts to keep them safe from water/moisture... a popular lubricant is Nyogel and I believe Lighthound.com sells it


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## Patriot (Jan 9, 2008)

There are lots of fancy tread and o-ring lubes out there, but I've found a substitute that seems to work just as well as the expensive stuff.


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## swxb12 (Jan 10, 2008)

Another product to search for on the forum is Nanolube. I've also seen a hypodermic needle-filled all purpose lube at Radioshack.


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## adamlau (Jan 10, 2008)

K-Y Warming Liquid :thumbsup: . Else, my preference is the more viscous NyoGel 779ZC.


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## littlejohnle (Jan 10, 2008)

Is vaseline suitable to use to lubricate the o-rings?


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## Size15's (Jan 10, 2008)

littlejohnle said:


> Is vaseline suitable to use to lubricate the o-rings?


Only if the manufacturer states that it is.
Most manufacturers recommend a silicone-based lubricant.

The starting point should be the make and model of flashlight.


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## HARDMETAL (Jan 10, 2008)

NO.
like dissolves like .
The hydrocarbon valine will cause damage to o ring .
should be uing silicon oil or grease .


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## littlejohnle (Jan 10, 2008)

Never mind. I used the search function. Now im not sure if i should because there seems to be 2 schools of though here. Some say its bad others have used it without problems.

What known product is best to use then?


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## Size15's (Jan 10, 2008)

littlejohnle said:


> What known product is best to use then?


Depends on the make of flashlight.

For SureFires I use NyoGel like SureFire does.


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## THE OFF (Jan 10, 2008)

adamlau said:


> K-Y Warming Liquid :thumbsup: . Else, my preference is the more viscous NyoGel 779ZC.


 
Yeh...K-Y is better on my bed !!!:thumbsup:


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## THE OFF (Jan 10, 2008)

SUPERLUBE ....:twothumbs

http://www.plumbingworld.com/lubricants.html


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## cal..45 (Jan 10, 2008)

I also use silicone grease (mostly to lube the gaskets of my watches), but I wonder if that is the right choice? since current is running through the tube on any flashlight with a tailbutton, wouldn't it be logical to grease the threads with something that electrographics (like copper grease for instance) rather than to use dielectric stuff (like silicone grease for instance) which therefore actually degrade the conductivity..:thinking::thinking::thinking:

I might have an error in reasoning here, so I wonder what you guys (especially electricians) think about it...


regards, holger


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## Sgt. LED (Jan 10, 2008)

Good point, hadn't thought of that...... Now I have to look into it!
And ummmm: Astroglide - somebody had to mention it!


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## dano (Jan 10, 2008)

I'd suggest using the search function, as this topic appears daily.


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## jzmtl (Jan 10, 2008)

cal..45 said:


> I also use silicone grease (mostly to lube the gaskets of my watches), but I wonder if that is the right choice? since current is running through the tube on any flashlight with a tailbutton, wouldn't it be logical to grease the threads with something that electrographics (like copper grease for instance) rather than to use dielectric stuff (like silicone grease for instance) which therefore actually degrade the conductivity..:thinking::thinking::thinking:
> 
> I might have an error in reasoning here, so I wonder what you guys (especially electricians) think about it...
> 
> ...



I would think no. Dielectrical grease keep things from getting oxidized/corroded, and where the contact are suppose to be made the pressure will squeeze out whatever dielectrical grease inbetween. And for lights with lock out tail cap the tail threads are anodized to prevent contact already.

But my limited experience are with vehicle electrical system and efficienty aren't that big of a concern there.


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## CandleFranky (Jan 10, 2008)

*@all:* Thank you, a lot of information. :twothumbs


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## keysandslots (Jan 10, 2008)

I've used Nanolube by StClaire on all of my lights.

Randy


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## yaesumofo (Jan 10, 2008)

Magnalube is the best for O-rings and threads.
Yaesumofo


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## Fallingwater (Jan 10, 2008)

This is a useful thread. My Nitecore DI's tailcap squeaks on its threads when I undo it; hopefully some silicone grease will make it silent.


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## BobbyRS (Jan 12, 2008)

Fallingwater said:


> This is a useful thread. My Nitecore DI's tailcap squeaks on its threads when I undo it; hopefully some silicone grease will make it silent.


 
+1 for Nyogel.

Mine did this as well. Some Nyogel made a big difference for me. I love that stuff. Use it all the time.


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## LK5GB7 (Jan 12, 2008)

now, can we find nyogel at local stores? Like OSH, home depot, ACE, radio shack? or is this stuff usually best ordered online


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## Casebrius (Jan 12, 2008)

Would a fluorosilicone based lube be OK? I have this available to me:
http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=404EN


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## nMotion96 (Jan 12, 2008)

i'm using the shock oil that are for my r/c car shocks and they come in different thickness. I also have special oil used for paintball guns o-ring but the r/c ones seem to work better.

The reason i think the r/c car oil works better than the paintball o-ring one is because when i use the paintball oil it is smooth and easy to turn but after i leave the light there it seems to stiffen up the turning action. I can't turn the head with one hand anymore, I would have to use two hand and give it a turn then it would be easy to turn again. With the r/c oil it stay easy to turn all the time.


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## Hitthespot (Jan 12, 2008)

cal..45 said:


> I also use silicone grease (mostly to lube the gaskets of my watches), but I wonder if that is the right choice? since current is running through the tube on any flashlight with a tailbutton, wouldn't it be logical to grease the threads with something that electrographics (like copper grease for instance) rather than to use dielectric stuff (like silicone grease for instance) which therefore actually degrade the conductivity..:thinking::thinking::thinking:
> 
> I might have an error in reasoning here, so I wonder what you guys (especially electricians) think about it... regards, holger


 
I wondered the same thing the first time I seen threads on Lube and the threads needing to conduct. ???Why not use a Lube that conducts. Most of the preferred lubes on this forum (including myself--superlube ) is a dielectric lube. Meaning it does not conduct electricity. The last week or so I have been researching lubes that conduct. There are a number on the market with most of the better ones having silver in them. If I find the right one I will be switching to it for all my Flashlights unless someone has a strong case on why not to. I would also like to read any other opinions on using one of these lubricants.

Oh, for those who always mention or complain that one of these lube threads gets started everyweek, Yea sometimes, and usually before it gets closed I learn something new, and I've done all the searches too. Now I wouldn't want to see one everyday but once in a while doesn't hurt does it? Especially if we can learn something new. Well that's my opinion anyway.

Bill


regards, holger[/quote]


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## mr.squatch (Jan 12, 2008)

I use royal purple synthetic assembly lube. Works great hot or cold. Great for o-rings and makes aluminum maglite threads smooth like butter 

http://www.royalpurple.com/productsi/max-tuff.jpg

g


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 12, 2008)

LK5GB7 said:


> now, can we find nyogel at local stores? Like OSH, home depot, ACE, radio shack? or is this stuff usually best ordered online



I don't think so. I bought mine from Lighthound. If you buy the largest size it will last a VERY long time, so don't worry about running out any time soon. 
I use Nyogel 760G on all my metal flashlights. It really helps with lights that use a twisty, or have rough threads to begin with.


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## JCup (Jan 12, 2008)

Search "connector lubrication" with Google.

US telecom specifications require that all separable electrical connectors used in telco carrier equipment be lubricated. These lubricants are designed to fill pores in the the plating (usually gold) on the contact surfaces, and inhibit corrosion of the base metal.

The predominant chemical used was a synthetic oil adapted from the aerospace market. At room temperature, it has the consistency of thick syrup, and is diluted 50-1 with a solvent to allow it to evaporate quickly, leaving behind very thin coatings of this sticky oil.

The conductive surfaces of the metal easily displace this inert oil, and touch the separable surfaces at high points when the contacts are engaged by "mating forces". The oil fills the gaps and crevices that would otherwise be affected by oxygen in the air - so long as the oil covers these surfaces, it preserves the metal.

They are non-conductive, and chemically very, very inert.

Although I have never used Nyogel, I believe Nye Lubricants is an excellent supplier, long involved in this market.

The "DeoxIT" product by Caig Labs also has a lot of history. It used to be called "Cramoline" and was first recommended to me by Art Collins' (Collins/Rockwell) personal assistant. The red version has additives to remove oxides present on the surfaces.

In flashlights, you'd be lubricating contacts with dissimilar metals, and in many cases aluminum - which is always oxidized on any exposed surface that isn't anodized - which also increases contact resistance.

I've used DeoxIT for about the last thirty years on handheld radios, data cables and connectors, and battery powered devices like flashlights.

see:
http://www.caig.com/

I notice that Fenix-store.com carries this in small packages at reasonable cost. Fry's carries it in Dallas. As packaged by Caig, you are buying something diluted to probably 5% or less in a volatile solvent like naptha. Warning - I once saw a piece of equipment go boom when someone sprayed a bit too much from an aerosol can in a live computer rack...

https://www.fenix-store.com/index.php?cPath=25_62

I just googled something I wrote nine years ago:

...lubricants help to preserve the base metals underneath porous noble
metal finishes.

Ref: Bellcore GR-78-CORE Issue 1 Paragraph 4.1.4.1 Lubrication of Noble
Metallization 2% Polyphenyl Ether in solution applied by dip, spray or brush.
Monsanto OS-138 in naptha will meet the requirements (they specify a qual test in paragraph 13.3.2). Monsanto OS-138 is a highly viscous synthetic oil
(six ring polyphenyl) with incredible stability, originally developed as a
lube for turbine engines.

Note that Bellcore is now "Telcordia Technologies".

You could also call Nye Synthetic Lubricants in Fairhaven, MA
(508-996-6721) for support, they sell prepared solutions, and are familiar
with Bellcore and other requirements related to connector lubrication. Good
yankee types, I recommend them highly. This Company traces back to sperm oil in the whaling era.


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## LuxLuthor (Jan 12, 2008)

Size15's said:


> Depends on the make of flashlight.
> 
> For SureFires I use NyoGel like SureFire does.



Ya know I did the same with my SF L2 & M4 because I read this earlier about SF using it. However, when I saw Milkyspit mention St. Claire's NanoLube, I switched over to it for one main reason....the Nyogel always made the threads dirty, and the oil doesn't. No matter how many times I cleaned them and re-lubed, always with the black lube in fairly short order.

I was surprised at how the Nanolube made a smoother fit, and my threads stay clean now. I don't care whichever brand you want to use--Arnold or St. Claire--I'm sure they work the same after buying both. I started using it on all my Mags now too.


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## LED Flashlights. (Jan 12, 2008)

This is something to definitely think about.

But, if the threads on a flashlight aren't lubricated to begin with does it really matter?

I've always wondered this when I first unscrewed my 2 D Cell Mag-Lite to put some batteries in it and the loud sound it gave off.


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## adamlau (Jan 12, 2008)

Darn you, LuxLuthor! I was hoping to stay away from logging into Paypal today, but you just had to recommend the lube that I was hoping to hold off on :ironic: . Reviewed the CPF NanoLube threads, browsed to the NanoLube site and there went another $16.00 :duh2: ...


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## matrixshaman (Jan 12, 2008)

I've been in touch with a manufacturer this week about a conductive lube I came across by accident. Most so called 'conductive lubes' don't conduct electricity. My Nyogel conductive lube I've used the last couple years does NOT conduct electricity - at least not in the sense that if you put a couple Ohmeter probes into it separated by a small space you still see Infinite resistance. I came across something which looked a lot like Nyogel but it DOES conduct electricity quite well when I put in the Ohmeter probes. I've asked the manufacturer for some specs like Ph (acidity/alkalinity) and so on and have a response. I still need to get back to them on a couple other points. I can't help but think a truly 'conductive' lube would help some lights. In the meantime I finally picked up some RadioShack lube in the needle point package and it's the best lubricant I've tried to date as far as making things turn smoothly (Nitecore Defender Infinity prompted me to find the best lube to make the head twisting a little smoother). The RadioShack lube contains a form of Teflon. I'll report more on the real conductive lube I found when I hear more from the manufacturer. So far they have been very responsive and I think I got their attention in explaining how it might be useful in a field outside their normal use - which is medical related.


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## Hitthespot (Jan 12, 2008)

matrixshaman said:


> I've been in touch with a manufacturer this week about a conductive lube I came across by accident. Most so called 'conductive lubes' don't conduct electricity. My Nyogel conductive lube I've used the last couple years does NOT conduct electricity - at least not in the sense that if you put a couple Ohmeter probes into it separated by a small space you still see Infinite resistance. I came across something which looked a lot like Nyogel but it DOES conduct electricity quite well when I put in the Ohmeter probes. I've asked the manufacturer for some specs like Ph (acidity/alkalinity) and so on and have a response. I still need to get back to them on a couple other points. I can't help but think a truly 'conductive' lube would help some lights. In the meantime I finally picked up some RadioShack lube in the needle point package and it's the best lubricant I've tried to date as far as making things turn smoothly (Nitecore Defender Infinity prompted me to find the best lube to make the head twisting a little smoother). The RadioShack lube contains a form of Teflon. I'll report more on the real conductive lube I found when I hear more from the manufacturer. So far they have been very responsive and I think I got their attention in explaining how it might be useful in a field outside their normal use - which is medical related.


 
I would be very interested in hearing more about this conductive lube. Especially if it sounds promising for flashlight threads. Keep us informed.

thanks

Bill


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## GarageBoy (Mar 5, 2008)

I use radioshack silicone grease


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## Crenshaw (Mar 5, 2008)

in light of the thread a day about lubricant, can someone PLEASE sticky this? :candle:

Crenshaw


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## kramer5150 (Mar 5, 2008)

you can get sillicone grease at most RC hobby shops. it comes in a small tube, and is branded under just about every manufacturer.... Team Losi, Team associated, HPI, Kyosho...etc. Its used to lube differential assemblies and make their rotation smoother.

Team associated part # 6636
http://www.amainhobbies.com/images/large/asc6636.jpg

I use it on o-rings mainly, I havent tried it on threads. I Just put some on my 6P bezel and tailcap threads last night and it seems to work very well. Although the bezel threads are not part of the conductive circuit.


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## StarHalo (Mar 5, 2008)

Hitthespot said:


> Oh, for those who always mention or complain that one of these lube threads gets started everyweek, Yea sometimes, and usually before it gets closed I learn something new, and I've done all the searches too.



Agreed, though it's usually just one or two posts per thread. Luminescent's last post on the subject has thus far been the most helpful:



Luminescent said:


> I have tried about a half dozen lubricants, and have found that different lights have different requirements.
> 
> ‘Twisty’ lights with bare aluminum threads (like the old Jetbeam C-LE v1.0 and v1.2), are the most critical. The wrong lubricant will not only make for rough operation, it can cause excessive thread wear leading to early failure.
> 
> ...



So any lube with teflon or any sort of metal bits in it isn't a good choice for bare-thread twistys.



Crenshaw said:


> in light of the thread a day about lubricant, can someone PLEASE sticky this?



+1, but it should be comprehensive sticky that objectively compares them all based on solid testing data, as in Luminescent's post.


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## CandleFranky (Mar 5, 2008)

I now use _*Nyogel 760G*_. This is a really great lube!


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## umc (Mar 5, 2008)

Crenshaw said:


> in light of the thread a day about lubricant, can someone PLEASE sticky this? :candle:
> 
> Crenshaw



Good idea, I need to re-read through here when I get a chance and figure out what's best as I've yet to lube any of my O rings or threads.


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## RobertM (Mar 5, 2008)

Size15's said:


> Depends on the make of flashlight.
> 
> For SureFires I use NyoGel like SureFire does.



Would this be the NyoGel that Surefire uses that you refer to?
http://www.batteryjunction.com/nyogel-760g.html

There wouldn't be any reason I'd need to use anything else on my Fenix L0D either would there?

Robert


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## ridgerunner (Mar 7, 2008)

*What cleaning solvent?*

So I got some Nyogel.

What is the best solvent to use for cleaning things up before applying the lube?

Same cleaning solvent for o-rings as for threads?


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## CREEp (Mar 7, 2008)

Abu Garcia fishing reel lube.
Synthetic, good viscosity, cheap.
Available at walmart or fishing tackle shops world wide


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## jbviau (Mar 7, 2008)

Just as an aside, I've had success lubing the threads on my Fenix L0D with SportShield, which I have lying around the house. It's a silicone-based lube made by 2Toms for runners who have chafing issues. The problem is that it's a roll-on, which isn't easy to use to apply lube to little metal parts. I just happen to also have some SportShield in moist towelette form, which works much better. This stuff is slippery as all hell.


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## Buck91 (Mar 7, 2008)

cal..45 said:


> I also use silicone grease (mostly to lube the gaskets of my watches), but I wonder if that is the right choice? since current is running through the tube on any flashlight with a tailbutton, wouldn't it be logical to grease the threads with something that electrographics (like copper grease for instance) rather than to use dielectric stuff (like silicone grease for instance) which therefore actually degrade the conductivity..:thinking::thinking::thinking:
> 
> I might have an error in reasoning here, so I wonder what you guys (especially electricians) think about it...
> 
> ...


 

I had a flickering issue with my SMJLED minimag which I solved by switching from silicone grease (sil-glde from NAPA) to a copper anti-seize compound (I believe made by permatix).


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## Monocrom (Mar 8, 2008)

Just got some *Nyogel 779ZC* lube from Lighthound.

I also have some *Deoxit Gold.* (From RadioShack).

I admit to using Vasoline before I knew better.


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## Mark620 (Mar 8, 2008)

Buck91 said:


> copper anti-seize compound (I believe made by permatix).



That stuff stains everything....


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## Buck91 (Mar 9, 2008)

Haven't had a problem... now the graphite based anti seize is DEFINATELY another story...


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## Mark620 (Mar 9, 2008)

We use the Copper based and the silver based anti-seize at work...have never seen the graphite based...



On my lights I use the plumbers silicone grease.


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## MarNav1 (Mar 9, 2008)

Started out with Nyogel, then switched to Nanolube. Works very well and you sure don't need much at all, a few small drops is it. I clean my threads with 90% isopropyl alcohol. I want to try the De-Oxit or Progold as well.


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## lengendcpf (Mar 9, 2008)

One only need 2 things in life:

1. WD-40 ("for things that should move, but don’t") and

2. Duct tape ("for things that do move, but shouldn’t").

Seriously, so can I use WD-40?


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## Anglepoise (Mar 9, 2008)

WD-40 is very good for what it was designed to do. However it is not a good long term lubricant and it hampers the conductivity of two metals that touch each other. In other words, its not good around electrical connections.


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## Buck91 (Mar 9, 2008)

lengendcpf said:


> One only need 2 things in life:
> 
> 1. WD-40 ("for things that should move, but don’t") and
> 
> ...


 

I really am NOT a fan of WD-40. In my experiences, it doesn't free rusted parts or seized mechanisms as well as PB Blaster or Liquid wrench, and it certainly does not lubricate very well at all. YMMV


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## cal..45 (Mar 9, 2008)

after doing a bit research the last couple weeks, I think its safe for me to say, that silicone grease works best for the o-rings/gaskest, because it keeps water/moisture away and the o-rings ductile. however I wasn't comfortable with that stuff using it on the threads, knowing it is 100% non-electrographic. so I ended up with a stuff called "Akku-Polfett" (battery grease?) over here. not sure how to translate this in english (the online dictionary doesn't seem to know this words) but it is grease which is usually used on car/bike battery poles to avoid corrosion and it is also claimed to enhance conductivity, so this became right now my favorite stuff for lubing threads, with very good results so far.


regards, holger


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## ElectronGuru (Mar 11, 2008)

cal..45 said:


> however I wasn't comfortable with that stuff using it on the threads, knowing it is 100% non-electrographic. so I ended up with a stuff called "Akku-Polfett"
> 
> ...but it is grease which is usually used on car/bike battery poles to avoid corrosion and it is also claimed to enhance conductivity



I think you're describing dielectric grease:


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## GarageBoy (Mar 11, 2008)

Anyone use graphite powder as a lube?


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## Handlobraesing (Mar 14, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> Ya know I did the same with my SF L2 & M4 because I read this earlier about SF using it. However, when I saw Milkyspit mention St. Claire's NanoLube, I switched over to it for one main reason....the Nyogel always made the threads dirty, and the oil doesn't. No matter how many times I cleaned them and re-lubed, always with the black lube in fairly short order.
> 
> I was surprised at how the Nanolube made a smoother fit, and my threads stay clean now. I don't care whichever brand you want to use--Arnold or St. Claire--I'm sure they work the same after buying both. I started using it on all my Mags now too.



Here, Arnold said his version is made of two components, the nano-diamond fortifier and synthetic oil base. 
http://www.seecamp.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1203141285

I would expect it will work as it's a lubricant oil after all, but the real question is if the fortifier makes a big difference.


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## Kraid (Mar 15, 2008)

Is there any reason I shouldn't use Militec-1?


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## Mark620 (Mar 15, 2008)

lengendcpf said:


> Seriously, so can I use WD-40?




WD-40 is Water Displacement formula 40...It is not a lubricant, It is not a rust inhibitor.

It was designed to displace water, thats what it does...


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## lengendcpf (Mar 16, 2008)

I think use vaseline is enough, cause read from this forum, that fenix-store also recommend it.

Cheap and easily available in drugs/pharmacy store.
Also got other uses :naughty:..


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## Monocrom (Mar 16, 2008)

lengendcpf said:


> I think use vaseline is enough, cause read from this forum, that fenix-store also recommend it.
> 
> Cheap and easily available in drugs/pharmacy store.
> Also got other uses :naughty:..


 
Vasoline is the worst lube you can use on flashlights.

It's petroleum-based. Meaning, it's going to eat through the rubber O-rings in your lights.


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## chmsam (Mar 17, 2008)

I have been working on a sticky for a while but there are always new products and "new uses" for existing items coming around, some good and some not good. I'm beginning to think this is a topic that might be best served by becoming a new category or sub-category.

There are a lot of opinions, a lot of practical experiences, and a lot of rumor and old wives tales on this topic. Be very careful about what you use to lube and maintain your things. Ultimately you are the only one responsible for what happens to your stuff, so be informed but, as much as this might be a shock to some, hold on now, this is very disturbing... not everything you read on the Internet is true. GASP! Oh, the horror...

Do what you want, use what you want, but if something goes wrong and you did not fully research what you were using and doing before you started, be prepared to accept the blame.

Here is some of what I had written for a sticky about basic maintenance and lubes, and please remember that these are only my thoughts and what I have learned from my experience. Maybe this will clear up some misconceptions but my opinions are also just that, my opinions, and nothing more.

------------

As I have said elsewhere, I care for my lights a lot and I am far too poor and far too cautious to treat my few lights with anything other than extreme care. I use the ones I have a lot and depend on them. The ones I keep in the car very well could literally mean life or death. You might treat your lights differently, but I take mine seriously. Having said that, I am writing this so that there will be less confusion about flashlight care. 

There are threads on this topic that are like some multi vitamins – once a day! 

Listed below are most of the answers to those questions as appropriately as I see them. There is a bound to be a ton of debate. 


Always remember the following:

- The manufacturer probably knows best. Read the manual. Check with the manufacturer if you do not have one. It is far better to know for sure than to guess.
- Always read the label on any product that you use! Check to see whether an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) exists. It should list the ingredients.
- Do the least damage. No damage is best of course. Again, guessing or assuming can be bad.
- Things change. New products come out. Old ones disappear. Update your information as often as you can.


Here are the basics as I will relate them for this topic:

- Please be aware that some o-rings don't like petroleum products and it is far better to be safe than sorry but always check with the manufacturer. Some o-rings are fine if they are used with petroleum products but are you willing to risk your light failing when you need it most?
- Pure silicone grease usually will do the job well (available in plumbing supplies, auto supplies, scuba dive shops, Lighthound, etc., etc.).*
- Some lubes conduct electricity and some do not. Be careful which you use on parts of the light that are electrically connected. Once more, read the label.
- I suggest that any lube application should probably be proceeded by a good cleaning of all the surfaces to be lubed. It is important that really, nasty crud is gently removed with a clean toothpick or cotton swab.
- The old adage that “Less is more” works well for lubes and will keep crud from collecting a bit less. Too much lube will attract dust and grit. I apply grease a small dab at a time and I use clean fingers. I wash my hands very well before I start and keep another clean shop rag to wipe them. You can always add more lube if needed. I wipe off any excess before I put the light back together.
- WD 40 ain't for lubing lights and/or o-rings. It is primarily a cleaning and water removal product and I personally do not use it on my flashlights.
- Wax based lubes might work for threads but I personally would not use them on o-rings. 
- DeOxit is a contact cleaner that will remove oxidation from electrical contacts but it is not a lube.
- Exposing your lights to too much heat is a bad thing (duh!) and it is also bad for lubes. If your lights are going to be used or stored under extreme conditions, they will need to be looked after with greater care and more frequently.
- I never use paper towels, toilet paper, or facial tissue to clean lenses, optics, or threads. Paper is far more abrasive than you think. Lint is bad. I use clean rags that are only for this purpose.

Here is what I probably consider the most important part. As I said above, “Less is more.” Do not over lube or over clean. Do not rip the lights apart for cleaning every other day. Do not overwork the preventive maintenance thing. Too much of a good thing is usually a bad thing. Do not be too aggressive with cleaning and taking things apart. Start out on the easy end of things and work up from there. Only do something that can be easily undone. Certainly, no maintenance is bad and any lube will eventually dry out. Clean as needed and lube on a regular basis but I find that once or twice a year is enough under most conditions. If you clean and lube too often you may be causing more wear and tear than necessary.

As always, your lights are your responsibility and the choice and level of care are your own, but the following is what I do.

Every six months to a year (or if it feels like the light needs it), I disassemble the light, clean it with a clean shop rag, cotton swabs (being careful not to get lint in the threads), and a little alcohol if needed. After I have finished with that, I hit all the contacts that I can with DeOxit Gold and let them dry. This includes batteries after they are checked. I use silicone grease sparingly on all the threads. I also inspect the o-rings and lube those. I put 'em back together and do not worry about them.

I have never had a light fail for any other reason than a dead battery. My flashlights never flicker. I get a long life from the batteries. I know that I can depend upon my light. Most importantly, I do very little work to maintain my flashlights.

I hope this helps answer most of the questions that come up concerning flashlight maintenance. Certainly, there is more information that you can discover with a search. There will always be some degree of debate concerning this topic. What I have listed above is merely what works for me. I hope this helps to make the care of your lights less of a chore and less of a mystery.


* By the way, the silicone lube I found from an auto parts place came in a very small tube and it was in a cardboard/blister pack. Interestingly enough I have also found it in two sections of most auto parts stores but it was the same product. I forget which package was higher priced but there was about a $2 difference between the brake grease and electrical connection lube. It was the same product, in the same tube, in a slightly different package, so, “buyer beware!”


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## seery (Mar 17, 2008)

chmsam said:


> I'm beginning to think this is a topic that might be best served by becoming a new category or sub-category.



I couldn't agree more. :twothumbs

Flashlight Cleaning & Maintenance


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## yaesumofo (Mar 17, 2008)

Maybe a comprehensive version posted as a sticky.
There have to be 20 versions of this thread on the forums.
I use Magnalube on 90% of my flashlights. It has never failed me or any of the many O-Rings on my lights.

Yaesumofo





seery said:


> I couldn't agree more. :twothumbs
> 
> Flashlight Cleaning & Maintenance


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## seery (May 23, 2008)

yaesumofo said:


> I use Magnalube on 90% of my flashlights. It has never failed me or any of the many O-Rings on my lights.
> 
> Yaesumofo


I've become less happy with Nyogel and based on your recommendations
have ordered (2) of the 14.5oz tubes of Magnalube-G, scheduled to arrive
via UPS ground next week. 

Thanks.


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## Yoda4561 (May 23, 2008)

Kraid said:


> Is there any reason I shouldn't use Militec-1?



Yeah there's a few. It can make some plastics and rubbers hard and brittle, and doesn't protect against corrosion. In fact it may actually promote oxidation when in contact with moisture. It isn't thick enough to provide a "cushioning" effect to smooth out coarse flashlight threads and also won't help waterproofing. Basically all it's good for is lubricating metal, and when used for that it works great, better though when you use it 4:1 parts other oil+ militec.


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## DM51 (May 23, 2008)

seery said:


> I've become less happy with Nyogel and based on your recommendations
> have ordered (2) of the 14.5oz tubes of Magnalube-G, scheduled to arrive
> via UPS ground next week.


Please read Magnalube-G Material Safety Data Sheet. You will see that it contains petroleum products, which will cause failure in some O-rings.


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## frosty (May 23, 2008)

Anyone used GT85?


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## StarHalo (May 23, 2008)

This is just going to drag on this way until there's an objective and scientific comparison of these lubes 

All it would take is one of you with a few copies of the same light and a few samples of the more popular lubes..


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## DM51 (May 23, 2008)

StarHalo said:


> This is just going to drag on...


These lube threads *ALWAYS* drag on, usually filling up with increasingly daft suggestions, until they eventually get closed as being total nonsense. 

There are a few sensible contributors like chmsam, who really *does* know what he is talking about. He makes wise suggestions and warns against using lubes that could or would be harmful, but no-one seems to pay any attention. Despite anything he and other knowledgeable members may say, there are plenty of others who insist on chipping in with their crackpot rival suggestions.

And there are *DOZENS* of these lube threads - do a search and you'll see.


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## adamlau (May 23, 2008)

MILITEC-1 should not pose a problem as long as certain precautions are taken during and after treatment. See MILITEC-1 Application Tips & Hints. I have treated a number of flashlights and firearms with MILITEC-1 with excellent results. You want the surface of the product to remain wet during the duration of the treatment. This ensures that the added inhibitors scavenge and prevent the possible formation of hydrogen chloride and hydrochloric acid. A final wipe down with Weapon Shield helps to increase the percentage of inhibitor to chlorine ratio. Lubricate bare threads with a non-oxidizing grease, such as the hydrocarbon based NyoGel 760G.


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## chmsam (May 23, 2008)

Find an MSDS for products with which you are unfamiliar. Unless you know for sure, assume that petroleum products might well attack the o-rings in your lights. Why worry about o-rings? O-rings help keep dirt and moisture out of your lights and might also provide other benefits. Consider o-rings to be your friends and any lube that attacks them to be a bad thing.

But unless you have an MSDS you will not know for sure what is in the chemical composition of the lube. Finding and reading the MSDS before you buy or use a lube is a good thing.


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## maxa beam (May 23, 2008)

Size15's said:


> Depends on the make of flashlight.
> 
> For SureFires I use NyoGel like SureFire does.



I find all lights love NyoGel quite much, and one tube lasts a good while, so price isn't that much of an issue.


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## TONY M (May 23, 2008)

DM51 said:


> Please read Magnalube-G Material Safety Data Sheet. You will see that it contains petroleum products, which will cause failure in some O-rings.


Thanks DM51. I had not known this.


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## seery (May 23, 2008)

DM51 said:


> Please read Magnalube-G Material Safety Data Sheet. You will see that it contains petroleum products, which will cause failure in some O-rings.


Just emailed Magnalube to cancel the order placed last night. Should have
read the MSDS and avoided this. T

Thanks DM51 for the heads up. :thumbsup:


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## DM51 (May 23, 2008)

I would have _hated_ to read about your Beast II suffering O-ring failure!


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## seery (May 23, 2008)

DM51 said:


> I would have _hated_ to read about your Beast II suffering O-ring failure!


:eeksign: Especially since it's going to be used for night time snorkeling as
soon as the water warms a bit more!


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## foxtrot29 (May 23, 2008)

I just use lithium grease (white stuff). Doesn't corrode the o-rings. At least I don't think it does.... lol

Hey, first post! Yay!


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## EXPY (May 23, 2008)

Mobil 1 synthetic grease has been an outstanding lubricant on more than a few Fenix's I have.


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## darkzero (May 23, 2008)

seery said:


> I've become less happy with Nyogel


 
Why is that? 

I bought two film canisters of each kind years ago I haven't even finished half of the first container yet.


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## SureAddicted (May 23, 2008)

I'd avoid Nyogel where possible, if thats what SF uses as lube. All the SureFire's I've bought have felt like they've had a mixture of sand and dirt on the threads when you twist the tailcap right out of the packaging, same with the bezel. All my new SF's have been that way when they are pulled out of the blister packs, like there is sand in between the threads. My recent E1B purchase was the same. out of the package it felt like there was a buildup of gunk and crap in the lube. 

Steve


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## seery (May 23, 2008)

*Ever wonder why Nyogel turns gray? Look no further.*

Something has always bothered me about using Nyogel on my expensive lights, some of which
lives can depend on.

Completely disassembling and cleaning a light, then adding fresh Nyogel 760G to the threads and
O-rings, only to find it quickly turns from semi-transparent to gray.

This became one of the main reasons for questioning the use and effectiveness of Nyogel 760G,
related to flashlights. Not knowing or being able to find the answer, really wore on me. After much
research, it seems I've discovered the answer to my problem.

Here is an article from Nye Lubricants:

http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cach...+color&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=5&gl=us&client=safari

_*"Some greases may yellow or darken with exposure to heat, air, light or time, but color change does not
necessarily affect grease performance.

Color change over time usually indicates antioxidant additives in the grease are working. A battery of tests run
on greases with and without antioxidants, exposing them to heat or UV light, showed that greases with the
additives will often discolor. In all of Nye’s extensive testing, this has been shown to be purely a visual change.

Antioxidants are used to prevent base oils from reacting with oxygen. Additives make up a very small portion of
an oil or grease. The characteristics of grease to prevent wear, friction, noise, etc. are not affected by antioxi-dant
additives. Dyeing a grease will mask any antioxidant color changes, which is why some grease manufacturers
routinely dye all their greases. Some customers ask Nye to add dye to lubricants to “color code” different greases
used in the same factory. If color change is problematic, dyes can be added to solve that “problem” as well."*_


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## Illum (May 23, 2008)

*Re: Ever wonder why Nyogel turns gray? Look no further.*

hmmm
:thanks:
That answered a few questions


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## Grox (May 23, 2008)

*Re: Ever wonder why Nyogel turns gray? Look no further.*

I'd always thought it was to to do with contaminents being picked up and integrated into the grease, but that was obviously only part of the explanation.

Thanks for that info Seery.


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## chmsam (May 23, 2008)

If you have a light that seems to have crud in the threads, it might not be the lube but contamination that is the problem. Dirt, grit, crud, etc. gets into lights and things pretty easily. Simple cleaning when needed and a reapplication of an _appropriate_ lube should cure the problem. Read the post (it's mine, actually) about basic care and maintenance. Use the right stuff and keep it clean and the light should work for a very long time. How do I know? I have had virtually no problems with my lights. In many, many years of being a flashlight geek I have had one o-ring failure and that was due to a poor quality o-ring. No other problems comes to mind (or what's left of my mind).

I've said it before but since I see it keep popping up, I would again politely suggest that folks please consider avoiding lubes that are not specifically meant for threads and o-rings used in flashlights, or those very, very similar to them. Otherwise, do not be surprised when the light has o-ring problems, starts to accumulate grit in the threads, etc. Kind of like using ATF in the crankcase of your car. You might be lucky, but you might not. Not recommended in my opinion. Do what you will.

Sorry if I sound like the grumpy old fart that I am but, yes, this topic comes up an awful lot and usually with only little new information.


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## qip (May 23, 2008)

*Re: Ever wonder why Nyogel turns gray? Look no further.*

i figured since most aluminum threads are not anodized it eventually oxidizes turning black mixing into nyogel making it gray


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## Nitroz (May 23, 2008)

I use this from Radio Shack. I think I got lucky and bought the one with the metal tip. It looks like they changed the tip and it is now plastic.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...t&support=support&tab=custRatings#showReviews


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## seery (May 23, 2008)

darkzero said:


> Why is that?



Here was part of the reason.
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=198558

The other is it's ability to maintain fluidity.


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## greenlight (May 23, 2008)

*Re: Ever wonder why Nyogel turns gray? Look no further.*

I'm glad I read that. I always assumed the gray stuff was unwanted junk.


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## yaesumofo (May 23, 2008)

You basically ordered yourself a lifetime supply of the stuff!!
Remember when you use Magnalube first completly and I mean COMPLETLY clean the threads and O-Ring completly free of any old products.
Then apply to the threads and the O-rings (with the O-Rings you can apply some into the O-Ring channel the the O-Ring lives in. Make sure the stuff is all over the O-Ring. It doesn't take much. Then work it into the threads by turning the threads all the way in one direction and then the other. Do that a few times then take the head off and examine the threads to make sure that you have a thin but even coat. That's it. Personally I clean the lube up and reapply every couple of weeks on flashlights I use on an EDC basis. The great thing about MAGNALUBE is that no matter what it will not freeze and will not migrate when heated (like in a HOT flashlight head). There is Teflon (PTFE) in the stuff which acts as a lubricant between metals. I have used it on my aluminum Pd's for a long time and there is still no visible wear on the anodizing covering the threads. That is a good indicator IMHO. I have a wide variety of LUBES Lots of them. I make calls to distributors and ask for samples (which they give freely) Often I receive a large tube or syringe filled with the stuff. I always come back to the Magnalube because it simply works well and keeps my flashlights operating very smoothly. I use magnalube on many objects with moving parts. Most are much harder on a lube than a flashlight (guns for example) and Magnalube always impresses me.
BTW it is green....weird looking stuff. You and your 2 large tubes will have enough to fill some smaller syringes and will be able to share some...
Enjoy it and please post your experience Good or bad for others to read. Subjective opinion is big around here and it is important to post our individual findings for others to learn from.
Yaesumofo




seery said:


> I've become less happy with Nyogel and based on your recommendations
> have ordered (2) of the 14.5oz tubes of Magnalube-G, scheduled to arrive
> via UPS ground next week.
> 
> Thanks.


----------



## PhantomPhoton (May 23, 2008)

*Re: Ever wonder why Nyogel turns gray? Look no further.*

Good to hear. I always thought it was stuff coming off of the threads, or the stuff "getting old." Thanks


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## yaesumofo (May 23, 2008)

I guess I have not had a problem with the stuff because I do not use )-rings which are effected by petrolium distilates. In all of the lights I have used magnalube on (a signifigant number) I have never had a single problem. A couple of years ago we did a group buy of the stuff and as far as I know everybody was happy and I never heard a negative word from any of the end users.
Maybe insted pf buying a lifetime supply just get a couple of the smaller tubes and try the stuff out. 
Yaesumofo





seery said:


> Just emailed Magnalube to cancel the order placed last night. Should have
> read the MSDS and avoided this. T
> 
> Thanks DM51 for the heads up. :thumbsup:


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## darkzero (May 23, 2008)

SureAddicted said:


> I'd avoid Nyogel where possible, if thats what SF uses as lube. All the SureFire's I've bought have felt like they've had a mixture of sand and dirt on the threads when you twist the tailcap right out of the packaging, same with the bezel. All my new SF's have been that way when they are pulled out of the blister packs, like there is sand in between the threads. My recent E1B purchase was the same. out of the package it felt like there was a buildup of gunk and crap in the lube.
> 
> Steve


 
I've been using my same batch of Nyogel for a couple years now & never felt any gritty threads after the Nyogel has been applied on any of my lights. I've only got 6 SFs in my collection that I bought back when they all came in boxes. None of mine have gritty threads. I've seen the stuff thicken up after a year as seery mentioned (never bothered me, I just reapplied it) or so but never felt gritty.

Thanks seery for that link. I always wondered why the Nyogel became dirty looking. It bothers me.


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## keysandslots (May 23, 2008)

I'll stick with the Nanolube, seems to be working fine so far.

Randy


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## matrixshaman (May 24, 2008)

*Re: Ever wonder why Nyogel turns gray? Look no further.*

I also thought it was fine aluminum particles that oxidized thus turning grey and mixing in with the Nyogel. I figured this would happen especially if there is any amount of water in the Nyogel. So I gave up using it thinking it was not doing the best job of lubricating and swtiched to PTFE in a little dropper package. I found it does not seem to gum up and does not turn grey after a while. It also is very noticeably smoother and makes a twisty turn easier. So while I may have been wrong about Nyogel I think the clear PTFE type liquid is a better lube and I've used it on dozens of different lights now. This stuff came to my attention from this_is_nascar. I know Nyogel is very popular but I haven't found any drawbacks to the PTFE (teflon) lube and it just seems it has never gained as big of useage here because people don't know about it. I'd been on here well over 2 years before I stumbled across mention of it. 
So not to sound like a hair commercial but if you want to 'Lose the gray' try the PTFE :laughing: - got mine at a place I really don't like to promote (Radio Shack) but it was available easily and cheap enough. Other places make and sell the same thing under different names but it's all essentially clear and usually comes in a needle tip oiler unit. 
Sorry if I am hijacking here Seery - just really think this is better lube after using Nyogel a couple years I find the PTFE is way better on everything I've used it on from Surefire's to custom's to cheapo lights. Like you I also wondered for a long while why Nyogel lubed lights turned grey rather quickly. I had tried other lubes too but nothing got my attention like the PTFE. 

Also one final question for Nyogel users - does Nyogel turn grey on stainless steel lights? I only acquired a couple SS lights recently so I don't know but if it is NOT turning grey on SS lights then I would question whether Nyogel is not interacting in some way with the aluminum. Stainless and Titanium too are a lot less affected by any chemical reactions so I'd be curious if they don't turn grey why aluminum is turning grey. This would tend to indicate Nyogel is not protecting the aluminum to aluminum contact nearly as well as it should so you have powdered aluminum or there is some electrical factor coming into play. While I'd like to believe what Nyogel is stating I'll admit I tend to take studies with a grain of salt when they are done by the company selling the product. 

After writing the above I dug a little deeper on Nyogel and found a couple interesting things from their own web site. This statement seems a bit odd: "Note: Never use conductive grease on sliding switches, which could malfunction if a conductive grease is applied to the contacts." Is a twisty flashlight not essentially using a sliding switch? I don't know if this applies but it caught my attention. Another couple tidbits for thought that may be relevant here: "Volume resistivity of both Nyogel 753G and Nyogel 756G is approximately 30 ohm-cm. Volume resistivity of Nyogel 758G is approximately 300 ohm-cm. Nyogel 753G and Nyogel 756G are gels not pastes. They rely on a proprietary carbon filler, rather than traditional metallic particles, for their conductivity. Nyogel 758G is an excellent channeling bearing grease. It relies primarily on a synergistic effect among its additives, not carbon or metallic filler, to create an electron pathway through the grease." Upon seeing that I had a couple thoughts. It seemed to me that the carbon might be partly responsible for the darkening whether by oxidation or electrical pathways through it causing some change. 

This is also the first time I've looked at Nyogels info on their site. It sounds like the Nyogel line was developed more with reduction of static in mind - in places where ball bearings could build up a static charge that would be a problem - like in computer hard drives or on treadmills. Oddly I see nothing on the Nyogel page that suggests it as a good lube for flashlights or anything even close to a flashlight in function. 
Now having said all that I'm definitely no lubrication expert - so YMMV. I just question if Nyogel is really that good of a product for flashlights.


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## SureAddicted (May 24, 2008)

darkzero, then maybe SF isn't using Nyogel, whatever it is they are using its the worst possible lube, I wouldn't buy it, use it or recommend it. If I had to relube all my SF's out of the packaging, then I think that says something about the lube they use.

Steve


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## tpchan (May 24, 2008)

*Re: Ever wonder why Nyogel turns gray? Look no further.*

Liquid PTFE is NOT a great lubricating compound for flashlights because it is so slippery, that it actually does not provide good lubrication because it will not "adhere" or stay where it is needed. So think round threads like on a flashlight -- liquid PTFE will most of the time just squish around and fall off your threads.

I know several shooters that like PTFE lubes for their gun slides (think metal rubbing hard on metal) but even they admit that they need to re-apply it quite often as it's always dripping off the surfaces that they need to be lubed.

Also PTFE is a dielectric and therefore NON-conducting. This is a problem if you need your flashlight threads to conduct electricity!


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## DM51 (May 24, 2008)

*Re: Ever wonder why Nyogel turns gray? Look no further.*

Merging threads...


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## matrixshaman (May 24, 2008)

My experience is that PTFE works great. CPF member this_is_nascar is one of the old timers here and he recommended it. I think most lubes are dielectric with the exception of Nyogel. However after putting Ohmeter leads in Nyogel extremely close together I don't see any conductivity from it either. This may not be an especially good test. I did however find a lube one time that was very conductive. I wrote to the manufacturer and they got back to me about it's pH - very low in acidity but still slightly acid so I didn't think it would be good on aluminum. 

However since that time I heard from one of our top flashlight designers that it is best not to have a conductive lube in a light. I forget what the explanation was but it was advised not to use such lubes. That's not to say that Nyogel is conductive and would fall in that category but from what I can see it seems resistive as it's based on carbon (the main element in most resistors). 
Another note on the PTFE I use - it seems to have a slight 'gel' like quality to it and I wouldn't call it runny at all. It even seems to look that way in the tube. It's definitely more liquid than Nyogel but I've had it on some twisties for at least 6 months and one of those is carried daily. I have not had to relube that light since the first treatment and it's still very smooth. That is my experience but YMMV.


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## thelightdude (May 24, 2008)

I have been using the Radio Shack oiler (Super Lube with PTFE) for many years. When this_is_nascar recommended it for flashlights I tried it and have used it ever since. I do miss the metal needle applicator tip they first used. I wipe off and re-apply the oil every few months. It seems to attract less particles from my pocket and from the threads than the different greases I have tried. I have not used Nyogel.


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## Burgess (May 25, 2008)

Thank you to *everyone* for all of this great information !

:thumbsup:
_


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## Tekno_Cowboy (May 25, 2008)

I use Arctic Silver 5 for the threads on the head of my lights, providing that I'm not planning on switching out the lamp very often. I also use it in the threads between the emitter and the reflector, if it is threaded. It's made for filling the spaces between a cpu and heatsink, but I've found it to lower the temperature of the head of my flashlights significantly. I wouldn't use it on the tail threads of my lights, but for places that won't see frequent movement, it really helps.


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## GarageBoy (May 25, 2008)

I currently run clean, unlubed threads. Lube just attracts more stuff that becomes abrasives


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## Niconical (May 28, 2008)

*Nyogel*

I'm new to flashlights, but I have 2 so far and I want to look after them. 
I'm ordering from Lighthound.com and want to include some Nyogel. 
I'm not 100% sure what to do with it yet or how much/little to apply, but that's another discussion. 
My question here is this. There are 2 types listed. 

Nyogel 760G http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1361
Nyogel 779ZC http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1364

Does it matter which one I get?
I'm assuming that all I need to do with it is to lightly grease the threads at the tailcap and bezel, but I want to make sure I'm doing it right and with the right stuff. 

Thank you 

EDIT: Actually, I just found an old thread that mentions it and it seems maybe the 760G would be good, but if someone could confirm I'd appreciate it.


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## StarHalo (May 28, 2008)

*Re: Nyogel*

Nyogel 760G is the popular choice for flashlight applications, but just so you know, *if it ain't broke, don't fix it* - that is, if your Fenixes already operate smoothly and still have relatively clean threads, don't bother lubing them for now. Wait a few months until the threads are looking gray, or if they get a bit stiffer to turn. 

When the time comes, get a rag (not a paper towel or q-tip, these leave little fibers everywhere) and some common household rubbing alcohol or WD40; remove the o-ring and rub the threads as clean as you can with the rag, then move to another part of the rag and soak it with the alcohol/WD, and wipe down the threads again. When they're properly clean, they'll look like shiny metal, similar to the bare aluminum of a soda can. Put just a drop or two on each thread segment and rub it in/around with your finger, and a drop on the o-ring, ensuring it's coated thoroughly. Reassemble and twist a few times to make sure it's distributed evenly, and wipe off any excess that squishes out. That's it, you're ready to go for another several months :thumbsup:


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## greenLED (May 28, 2008)

*Re: Nyogel*

Niconical, cualquier lubricante a base de silicón sirve - no need to use any of the fancy lubes.


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## Niconical (May 28, 2008)

*Re: Nyogel*

Thanks for that, it's really helpful.
I'm going to print it and put it in my flashlight box for when the time comes. 

:twothumbs


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## DM51 (May 29, 2008)

*Re: Nyogel*

I'm going to add this new thread on to an existing one.


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## geek4christ (May 30, 2008)

Thank you to those that recommended the RadioShack PTFE lube. That stuff is great. My threads run silky smooth now.


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## husky20 (May 30, 2008)

astroglide:naughty:


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## DrunkenDonut (May 30, 2008)

husky20 said:


> astroglide:naughty:



Everyone knows that's for hair.. http://questionablecontent.net/view.php?comic=370 *ahem* anyway... 

I use NyoGel 760G just to try it out. It's good stuff for sure, but pricey. I've also used Super Lube (PTFE) and it's also smooth, but didn't work out for me on the NDI o-ring.


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## Burgess (May 31, 2008)

*I've also used Super Lube (PTFE) and it's also smooth, but didn't work out for me on the NDI o-ring.*


Why not ?


Does the NDI use a different material in their O-rings ? ? ?


Thank you for your help here. 

I (so far) *really like* the PTFE lube.

:thumbsup:
_


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## Snow (May 31, 2008)

Up until today, I'd been using some Sentry Solutions lube that I had. Today I got in some Nyogel from Lighthound. I applied it to my flashlights and it seems to be a little thinner and smoother than the SS stuff. So far, so good.


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## DrunkenDonut (May 31, 2008)

Burgess said:


> Why not ?
> Does the NDI use a different material in their O-rings ? ? ?


It's a combination of things, nothing too specific about the lube itself. The o-ring fit was tight, and it after lube it was even tighter after letting it sit in one position for a bit. Changing it out with another of the included o-rings was better, and changing to NyoGel helped a bit more.


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## mr.snakeman (May 31, 2008)

One grease that I have used successfully is actually designed and sold as a bicycle bearing grease. Finish Line premium Grease is 100% synthetic, is teflon fortified, will not oil seperate, does not thicken in the cold, does not migrate and does not damage o rings. It is the best bearing grease that I have ever used (and as a professional bike mechanic, I´ve tried most on the market). A little bit goes a long way. Good stuff.


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## Burgess (May 31, 2008)

to Mr. Snakeman --


Welcome to CandlePowerForums !

:welcome:


_


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## Tekno_Cowboy (May 31, 2008)

mr.snakeman :welcome:, could you provide a link to that grease please? I'm having a hard time finding a site with information about it.

I got some nano-oil in today, and it seems to work just about as well as anything else i've used. I got the 10 weight though, I think the heavier weight might have worked better.


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## Empath (May 31, 2008)

Finsh Line Bike Lubricant.


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## Tekno_Cowboy (May 31, 2008)

Empath said:


> Finsh Line Bike Lubricant.


 
 Of course! The company website!

Thanks!


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## Buck91 (Jun 1, 2008)

mr.snakeman said:


> One grease that I have used successfully is actually designed and sold as a bicycle bearing grease. Finish Line premium Grease is 100% synthetic, is teflon fortified, will not oil seperate, does not thicken in the cold, does not migrate and does not damage o rings. It is the best bearing grease that I have ever used (and as a professional bike mechanic, I´ve tried most on the market). A little bit goes a long way. Good stuff.


 
I, too, professionally wrench on bikes. How does that Finish line stuff compare to phil wood grease (local favorite)? Or even Park Polylube 1000 (Not my favorite, but I've used it a lot and it works).


EDIT: I'm talking on bikes, of course!


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## Tekno_Cowboy (Jun 2, 2008)

I got a hold of some 10W nano-oil. It seems to work pretty well for some things. I plan to try that green stuff I heard mentioned (magnalube?) too, if I ever get around to ordering it.


----------



## MedusaOblongata (Jun 2, 2008)

*Tuff-Glide?*

I read through the entire thread and haven't seen it mentioned so far; can I use Tuff-Glide on my flashlights? I think the active ingredient is mineral spirits or mineral oil, but I'm not sure. It works pretty well on knives. Anyone know?

TIA


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## Yoda4561 (Jun 2, 2008)

You can, if you have issues with dust and grit it might work out for you. It is not the best lube out there and if the light has o-rings in the right places dust shouldn't be an issue either. Not sure what the actual lubricating and protection ingredient is but the carrier is oderless mineral spirits, this evaporates and leaves behind a dry film.


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## mr.snakeman (Jun 2, 2008)

Hi Buck91, I prefer Finish Line.


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## chmsam (Jun 2, 2008)

Re: Tuf-Cloth/Tuf-Glide from Sentry Solutions.

I have one and use it a lot, but I'm not too comfortable using something based on Stoddard Solvent around o-rings -- Tuf-Glide is pretty much Stoddard Solvent plus molybdenum sulfide/disulfide lubes, if I recall correctly. Great stuff and I do use it for other things but I just don't like to use solvents of any kind around o-rings.

For my lights, it is still pure silicone grease or nothing. I haven't seen anything safer, better, cheaper yet (your mileage may vary). Plus the small tin I have will last a long time yet.


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## mr.snakeman (Jun 2, 2008)

chmsam I agree: a good silicone grease will work just fine on threads and o rings. Compared to Finish Line Grease twisting feels stiffer but maybe that´s a good thing for some lights. For better underwater usage go for the ht silicone grease (do a google search and you will find).


----------



## Tekno_Cowboy (Jun 3, 2008)

Talked to my local AMSOil dealer, who also does custom machineing for local businesses. He recommended the Silicone Spray or the Muti-Purpose Spray Grease for aluminum threads.


----------



## boonsht (Jun 5, 2008)

chmsam said:


> For my lights, it is still pure silicone grease or nothing. I haven't seen anything safer, better, cheaper yet (your mileage may vary). Plus the small tin I have will last a long time yet.



I was thinking the same. I've been putting it on my lights for the past 6 months. The one thing I noticed, as mr. snakeman mentioned, was the stiffness of twisting some of my lights. Maybe some people like it that way. I surely don't hehe.

Time for me to look for something better.


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## chmsam (Jun 5, 2008)

I don't have that problem and never had. 

Here's my secret -- wash your hands well, use a clean cloth (preferably one used for nothing else) to clean the threads throughly, and then apply a light coating of the grease. I only use a dab about the size of a pea or a tiny bit bigger for most applications. I use my little finger to apply the grease and to work it around and into the threads. Wipe off any excess above or below the threaded area. 

My lights get cleaned & lubed about once or twice a year depending on how often and how hard they get used. 

Best advice -- don't let crud build up, keep the lights clean. The threads will appreciate it.


----------



## lengendcpf (Jun 11, 2008)

*How do you apply lubricant to your lights?*

There are lots of posts talking about applying different types of lubricants on the threads but none on the exact way on applying.

Can share how you apply? Materials used, the threads on the body, on the inside threads of the head, etc. Thanks..


----------



## scottaw (Jun 11, 2008)

*Re: How do you apply lubricant to your lights?*

Any threads I lube, I put 4 drops of lube, right around the top of the threads, then screw together, as it screws it spreads the lube evenly down the threads.

As far as O-rings i take them off with a small pick and roll them around in my fingers with the lube.


----------



## ConfederateScott (Jun 11, 2008)

*Re: How do you apply lubricant to your lights?*

I have a little container of Nyogel, I take my light apart by taking off the head and tailcap. I get a little lube on my finger and rub all around the head threads on the body making sure I get gel down into them and on the o-ring. I rub it all around but I put enough gel to fill the threads in only a few spots. Then I screw on the head. Same to the tailcap end. I may tighten and loosen a few times to make sure the gel spreads all through the threads on both the head and body where I applied. I don't use a whole lot of the Nyogel and I only do this about three times a year. I bought a little jar over two years ago and still have plenty. It is about as big as the little white paper things you get at Wendys hamburgers with ketchup in them. Except this little container is plastic with a metal cap. I've got close to 20 lights (SF) that I lube occassionally and at the rate I'm going I'll have Nyogel in two more years.


----------



## chmsam (Jun 11, 2008)

*Re: How do you apply lubricant to your lights?*

This has been posted before but here we go...

I clean the threads and the o-ring (if needed) before applying lube. I use a clean shop rag that is never used for anything else and I also use cotton swabs if needed. If there is crud built up in the threads I will use a wooden toothpick to clean it out but never anything harder than that.

I thoroughly wash my hands before I apply a pea sized dab of pure silicon grease on the tip of one of my fingers. I work the grease into the threads and around the o-ring using only light pressure. If I feel any grit at all I will stop and start at the beginning by cleaning the light again. When done with the cleaning and lubrication I wipe off any excess grease and reassemble the light. I finish by wiping down the outside of the light.

At the same time I clean and lube the light I check the batteries on a tester and I also apply DeOxit Gold (removes oxidation, improves electrical contact, and helps to prevent re-oxidation) to all electrical contacts including the batteries. I allow that to dry for about 5 minutes before reassembling the light.

I do all of this maybe once or twice a year unless the light gets hard or frequent duty. Takes less than 10 minutes and the benefits are worth it. I cannot remember the last light failure I have had, including being "surprised" by dead batteries. My lights work when I need them to do so.


----------



## Lee1959 (Jun 11, 2008)

*Re: How do you apply lubricant to your lights?*

Removed sarcastic remarks of incredulity, I suppose some do make a procedure out of lube.


----------



## DM51 (Jun 11, 2008)

*Re: How do you apply lubricant to your lights?*

Threads merged.


----------



## m3m4 (Jun 11, 2008)

Can Nyogel 760G be used to lube on a Nitrolon polymer body? Just to make sure...


----------



## blinder switch (Jun 11, 2008)

*Re: Ever wonder why Nyogel turns gray? Look no further.*



matrixshaman said:


> I also thought it was fine aluminum particles that oxidized thus turning grey and mixing in with the Nyogel. I figured this would happen especially if there is any amount of water in the Nyogel. So I gave up using it thinking it was not doing the best job of lubricating and swtiched to PTFE in a little dropper package. I found it does not seem to gum up and does not turn grey after a while. It also is very noticeably smoother and makes a twisty turn easier. So while I may have been wrong about Nyogel I think the clear PTFE type liquid is a better lube and I've used it on dozens of different lights now. This stuff came to my attention from this_is_nascar. I know Nyogel is very popular but I haven't found any drawbacks to the PTFE (teflon) lube and it just seems it has never gained as big of useage here because people don't know about it. I'd been on here well over 2 years before I stumbled across mention of it.
> So not to sound like a hair commercial but if you want to 'Lose the gray' try the PTFE :laughing: - got mine at a place I really don't like to promote (Radio Shack) but it was available easily and cheap enough. Other places make and sell the same thing under different names but it's all essentially clear and usually comes in a needle tip oiler unit.
> Sorry if I am hijacking here Seery - just really think this is better lube after using Nyogel a couple years I find the PTFE is way better on everything I've used it on from Surefire's to custom's to cheapo lights. Like you I also wondered for a long while why Nyogel lubed lights turned grey rather quickly. I had tried other lubes too but nothing got my attention like the PTFE.
> 
> ...


 
Well, it has been a little while and I found this on the 50 g I ordered today. Also a Surefire tech told me on the phone that this NyoGel is what they use.

From the NyoGel web site:
NyoGel® 760G is a silica thickened, medium viscosity, synthetic hydrocarbon grease for lubrication and protection of tin-lead electrical connectors. Benefits include good water resistance. By preventing environmental and fretting corrosion, it extends the life of electrical contacts. *We recommend this grease for use on the threads of all aluminum-bodied flashlights. *NyoGel® 760G is a relatively "thin" grease and rated for -40�C to 135�C temperature ranges. Note that NyoGel® 760G is not conductive, but it was designed for lubricating surfaces that are conductive.


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## x59628 (Jun 13, 2008)

I've been using this "three in one oil" that I got from Walmart (its manufactured by WD-400)
its a lot thicker than WD-40, and so far, it's worked great in my Fenix for both the threads and O-rings.


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## x59628 (Jun 13, 2008)

x59628 said:


> I've been using this "three in one oil" that I got from Walmart (its manufactured by WD-400)
> its a lot thicker than WD-40, and so far, it's worked great in my Fenix for both the threads and O-rings.


 
WD-40*


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## chmsam (Jun 14, 2008)

WD40 is not a lube, it is a water displacer. Plus, it and other compounds with petroleum ingredients might damage some o-rings. Searching old threads on lubes (I posted a long one awhile ago -- see post #61 in this thread) will give you some tips on what to use and what not to use, and on flashlight maintenance.


----------



## bugeyed (Jun 14, 2008)

*Lube for A2 seals & threads?*

I just finished the LED frosting (used a ScotchBrite pad) & added Luminova luminescent backing to the LEDs. Waiting for the solvent in the adhesive to clear completely now. A quick test shows a beautiful "ringless" LED pattern. Thanks for the thread that suggested this "fix". 
Now, I don't have any silicone grease per-se, but I do have some Finish line bicycle grease that is "100% synthetic" as stated on the tube. I think it should be OK. Maybe a bit slicker than others, but should be safe for the O-rings, right? 
Here's a quote from the web site, 
100% synthetic with Teflon fluoropolymers*. *
New “functional” thickener totally prevents rust and corrosion (even in saltwater).
New thickener prevents washout and water emulsification.
New technology withstands higher pressures without sheering.

Edit: Mr.Snakeman endorses this very same product in another thread, so, unless someone else chimes in with evidence that it is bad, I will use it.
Thanks

Thanks
kev


----------



## leukos (Jun 16, 2008)

*Re: Lube for A2 seals & threads?*

Give it a try, Kev, there really is not much to lose. Some folks around here prefer teflon based lubes for their lights and claim it to be smoother and it doesn't get as gray as silicone based lubricants. I don't know about your lube's water resistant abilities, but maybe that's not a concern of yours. Lube can always be removed and o-rings replaced, so I would say try it out and let us know how it performs. :thumbsup:


----------



## bugeyed (Jun 16, 2008)

*Re: Lube for A2 seals & threads?*



leukos said:


> Give it a try, Kev, there really is not much to lose. Some folks around here prefer teflon based lubes for their lights and claim it to be smoother and it doesn't get as gray as silicone based lubricants. I don't know about your lube's water resistant abilities, but maybe that's not a concern of yours. Lube can always be removed and o-rings replaced, so I would say try it out and let us know how it performs. :thumbsup:



Thanks for your reply. The FinishLine Grease seems to be working fine. I have not tested it's water resistance, but the company claim is that it resists water solubility, so that should be OK. I will get some silicone grease before the next cleaning & see how that works, 'cause I would like something a bit thicker than the FinishLine grease.


----------



## DM51 (Jun 16, 2008)

*Re: Lube for A2 seals & threads?*

There is another lube thread current at the moment and we don't need 2 at once, so I'm merging this one with it.


----------



## BigHonu (Jun 18, 2008)

*Re: Lube for A2 seals & threads?*

Anyone who use Nanolube have problems with sticking?

I have the heavy weight version, and initially all seems well and the twisty action on all my SF lights were great. Fast forward a few weeks, and they are now all very 'sticky' and hard to turn. Almost like the o-rings grew or something.


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## Burgess (Jun 18, 2008)

This exact same problem happened with me, using Radio Shack teflon lube.


My Pelican Super SabreLight 2000 (3-C cells) has a black O-ring.

I cleaned off the old, original lube, very well.

Then i applied a good dose of my Radio Shack teflon lube (comes in a tube, like toothpaste).


Immediately tried turning it, and it worked GREAT !


*But . . . .*


Tried it again, perhaps an hour later,
and it took ALL my strength to unscrew the head ! ! !

:hairpull:


Almost seems like the O-ring musta' *swelled-up*, or something !

Visually, i could not detect any difference.


But *something* was surely wrong ! ! !


_


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## nutz_about_lights (Jun 19, 2008)

Hmmmm. I figure that it must be the cleaning part. Most people use rubbing alcohol to completely clean off the old grease/lubricant. Wad'ya use?


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## StarHalo (Jun 19, 2008)

Burgess said:


> Almost seems like the O-ring musta' *swelled-up*, or something !



If you change lubes you should probably also replace the o-ring, all kinds of interaction possibilities there that could cause seizing..


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## Burgess (Jun 19, 2008)

Ah, i see . . . .


Thank you for the responses. :thumbsup:


Did not use *anything* to clean off the old lube,
except Kleenex tissues.

No alcohol, or other solvents.

_


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## StarHalo (Jun 19, 2008)

Burgess said:


> Did not use *anything* to clean off the old lube,
> except Kleenex tissues.
> 
> No alcohol, or other solvents.



That's actually worse - just wiping alone will leave plenty of old lube behind, then when you add the new lube you get the random interaction. To clean the threads you should definitely use rubbing alcohol or some similar cleaner, and something that doesn't leave lint or bits behind to wipe, such as a rag or makeup sponge (my wife always looks at me funny when she sees me stealing a makeup sponge for my flashlights, but they have to be pretty too..). I wash the o-ring with soap and water to clean it, but replace it entirely if there's much dirt at all (especially magically occurring gray grit); yes this is inconvenient, but I'd rather replace a fifty cent o-ring than wonder if my light will survive getting wet.. I lube the o-ring thoroughly with fingers before putting it on, this way it's completely coated on all sides so the rings have a bit of "slide", or slightly turn along with twisting motion. This means there's no dry gap or weld between the ring and the flashlight, which creates problems.


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## precisionworks (Jun 19, 2008)

Like trying to define love, you'll get lots of different answers My favorite is Super Lube grease:







The big tube (3 oz) lasts forever since you rarely use much. Costs around $6 online, more in stores. Good to -40F



> Kleenex tissues.


Maybe, if that was the last item available. I take a clean toothbrush (usually my wife's, as it is cleaner than mine), spray the bristles with WD40, then shake the brush to fling off excess. WD40 is a poor lubricant, but a great solvent. Push it inside the tube and rotate the tube as if unscrewing the head. Wipe with a small piece of cotton cloth, like a gun cleaning patch. Brush the external threads so that any grit it carried away & wipe with a clean cloth. If either cloth shows any color, repeat with WD40 until both cloths are clean.

Lightly grease the external threads ONLY with Super Lube, screw in the head, good to go.

Wipe off your wife's toothbrush with another clean cloth (hey, you gotta take care of her, too) & replace in the cabinet:devil:


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## Burgess (Jun 19, 2008)

:lolsign::lolsign::lolsign::lolsign::lolsign:
_


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## DM51 (Jun 20, 2008)

precisionworks said:


> I take a clean toothbrush (usually my wife's, as it is cleaner than mine), spray the bristles with WD40, then shake the brush to fling off excess... Push it inside the tube and rotate the tube as if unscrewing the head. Wipe with a small piece of cotton cloth, like a gun cleaning patch... Lightly grease the external threads ONLY with Super Lube, screw in the head, good to go.
> 
> Wipe off your wife's toothbrush with another clean cloth (hey, you gotta take care of her, too) & replace in the cabinet:devil:


I quite like this idea, but I’m trying to picture what happens when Mrs Precisionworks thinks she has cleaned her teeth, but unknown to her she has actually got them nicely lubed up instead, and then she tries to take a bite out of an apple or something. Does the apple fly out of her mouth across the room, leaving her looking a bit puzzled? 

I think if I tried this with Mrs DM51 there might be quite a lot of trouble, lol.


----------



## ruriimasu (Jul 1, 2008)

*Grease for flashlights*

Hi,
May I know whether I can get grease in small packaging (and cheap maybe less than $3) from DX or Kaidomain? I tried searching but to no avail. Or any other website that has free international shipping as it does not make sense to spend $5 on shipping for a small item like this.


----------



## Saranic (Jul 8, 2008)

*NC EX10 O-Ring Lube ?*

Hello folks, what are you using to clean and re lube your o-rings 

anybody out there have a best practice yet?

Thanks


----------



## Rossymeister (Jul 8, 2008)

*Re: NC EX10 O-Ring Lube ?*

I use a combination of Deoxit And NyoGel 760G.

There are literally hundreds of threads on the subject through google search.


----------



## Rossymeister (Jul 8, 2008)

*Re: NC EX10 O-Ring Lube ?*

Links To Threads:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/166185

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/179483

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-87803.html

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/61225

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/1969

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-35358.html


----------



## CM (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: NC EX10 O-Ring Lube ?*

Some of the stuff that's being perpetrated around here is a waste of money IMO. Why spend all that money on exotic lube on a 10 cent o-ring? I have a 6 year old Arc AAA with the original O-rings on it. Guess what I use to lube the O-rings? Hint: you can get it at Home Depot in the plumbing section. I've tried the Krytox stuff, Nyogel, and don't see any additional benefit commensurate with the price they charge for these things. But I suppose there's value in the placebo effect...


----------



## Saranic (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: NC EX10 O-Ring Lube ?*

thanks for all the help


----------



## clintb (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: NC EX10 O-Ring Lube ?*

Mobil 1 synthetic grease. About as exotic as you need and available in a nice, big tub for dirt cheap. Added benefit: lube more than just your flashlights!


----------



## jbviau (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: NC EX10 O-Ring Lube ?*

I use a cheap Teflon-based lube sold at Radio Shack called the "needle-tip precision lubricator."


----------



## nanotech17 (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: NC EX10 O-Ring Lube ?*

i use tufoil Lubit-8


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## Monocrom (Jul 10, 2008)

*Re: NC EX10 O-Ring Lube ?*



CM said:


> But I suppose there's value in the placebo effect...


 
In that case, the folks over at Nyogel screwed up.... Cause their placebo actually works well. 

Messed around and created something that works. Don't you hate it when that happens. :shakehead


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## gallagho (Jul 10, 2008)

Hiya,

I'm using Dow Corning® High Vacuum Grease, really good stuff.

Owen


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## GPB (Jul 29, 2008)

*Lube Question*

I have been using the synthetic lube shown below. It seems to work well and is not petroleum based, as Surefire requires so I thought I was OK. However I just noticed recently that it is a dielectric, which means it doesn't conduct electricity. While it hasn't caused me any trouble, my gut feeling is I shouldn't be putting an insulator between the tailcap and the body of my lights. Have any of you ever tested the resistance of your lube, or should I just assume that since its worked so far, don't worry about it. Thanks in advance for any feedback.



*Super Lube *




Email this to a friend ​*Super Lube Synthetic Grease With PTFE Teflon 21030- **305000 *Super Lube Synthetic Grease With PTFE Teflon 21030 Is A Non-Toxic Dielectric Grease, A USDA Listed H1 Food Grade Lubricant, And A Patented Synthetic NLGI Grade 2 Heavy Duty Multi-Purpose Lubricant. Outlasts Conventional Greases 50-100% And Has Excellent Adhesion. 3 oz tube. NSF® Registered


----------



## GPB (Jul 29, 2008)

I had posted this as a new thread because I was asking: "is conductivity in a lubricant necessary", rather than "what lubricant to use" but aparently the powers that be didn't think the distinction was significant . Oh well.


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## imfrogman (Jul 29, 2008)

K-Y works great & comes in many different scents


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## Yoda4561 (Jul 29, 2008)

Dielectric is fine, normal even for electrical lubrication  Properly designed switches and electrical contacts will push whatever lube present out of the way where it matters to ensure proper function.


----------



## Buck91 (Jul 29, 2008)

I agree with Yoda. I use automotive grade silicone grease from Napa on all my lights and any time I notice a dry connector on my car. Works great and prevents the contacts from corroding. The only time it caused an issue was with the terralux clicky on my smjled minimag running L91's. Why I haven't a clue, but switched to copper anti seize and it fixed the "two mode switch" I had going.


----------



## geek4christ (Jul 30, 2008)

*Re: Lube Question*



GPB said:


> ...I just noticed recently that it is a dielectric, which means it doesn't conduct electricity. While it hasn't caused me any trouble, my gut feeling is I shouldn't be putting an insulator between the tailcap and the body of my lights. Have any of you ever tested the resistance of your lube, or should I just assume that since its worked so far, don't worry about it.



You should be just fine, especially for lights with anodized threads. They usually complete the circuit via the very end of the body tube where there is no anodizing. As long as you make sure to keep the lube off that area, then no problems.


----------



## machoamigo (Aug 15, 2008)

*Which type of grease?*

I have several flashlights and I use them all once in a while but when it comes to cleaning them up I and after cleaning the threads I use silicone grease the *electrical silicone grease* with no side effects to the flashlights, even the twisty ones work well.

My question is whether I can use this type of grease without long term effects if any to the flashlights or should I use something else.

Thanks for all your help.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Aug 15, 2008)

Dow Corning high temp. silicon grease. Been using it for years. Works great.

Geoff


----------



## smvtsailor (Aug 18, 2008)

*Confused about lubricants*

I've been researching this for a while now, and my understanding is that nyogel is a good lube that will make my P2D's threads silky smooth and easy to turn. Will nyogel do this? If so, what specific type (I've seen multiple numbers after "nyogel") and where can I get it? I've also heard arguments for other lubes. I'm not looking to spend much for lubricant, but my light's threads are getting gritty.


----------



## Oddjob (Aug 18, 2008)

*Re: Confused about lubricants*

I have in the past used plumber's silicone grease on my Fenix lights. It's cheap and you can get it at your local hardware store. It worked fine for me and if you are not twisting your P2D's head alot it should be fine. For proper twistie lights it may not be as effective but to keep the O-rings supple and the threads smooth it should be OK. When using any lube it good to keep in mind that too much can also cause problems. Of course you should clean your threads first to get rid of the old stuff.


----------



## pipspeak (Aug 18, 2008)

*Re: Confused about lubricants*

There was recently a summary of the three different nyogel lubes... try a search for threads in the last month. 

Personally I don't bother with what I consider to be over-priced specialty lubes and just use my synthetic silicone/teflon bicycle grease. Seems to work fine.


----------



## BabyDoc (Aug 18, 2008)

*Re: Confused about lubricants*

Do a search. There are other threads here on lubricants. Anything here will be very repetitive. Let me say one thing, however. There is no one perfect lubricant for all situations. While Silicon Lube or other thick lubricants work well on some lights, it makes other lights operate with more difficulty. In most cases it depends on the O-rings and how thick they are. If they are thick enough that there is almost no play in the light between the O-ring and the body of the light, you will usually do better with a thinner lubricant. While Nyogel 760 is thinner than Silicon Lube and will work better than Silicon with fat O-rings, it is rather expensive. IMO, a cheaper and better alternative is Radio Shacks Precion Oiler PFTE which is even thinner than Nyogel, just as adherent, but is very inexpensive and easily available. But even Radio Shack Oiler is not perfect for every situations. Overapply it, and it will get onto contact boards and cause problems. When there is a lot of play in the flashlight parts (thin or worn O-rings), you will do better with thick Silicon lube in order to maintain water resistance of the light.

Again do a search on Lubricants. If I were the moderator, I would close or merge this thread.


----------



## lumenal (Aug 18, 2008)

*Re: Confused about lubricants*

BabyDoc is right... here is an effective yet inexpensive way to lube your light. 

Go to RadioShack, and purchase their RadioShack needletip precision oiler- its about $3-$4.

This can be used on threads and some o-rings. Don't over do it, just a couple drops goes a long way.

Then go to Lowes, or most hardware stores, and buy plumbers silcon grease, about $2-$3.

Just lightly coat o-rings with this, and not the threads... in my experience this will gum up the threads.

Make sure before doing anything you have cleaned your threads with at least a slightly damp heavy duty papertowel, or lint-free cloth, etc., which will get rid of the black buildup, (aluminum oxide).


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## JML (Apr 21, 2009)

I want to caution all about Magnalube. I bought some last summer, and of the several tubes I had on hand, every single one had the plastic cap break by itself, apparently deteriorated by the lube (I've never had this happen before). I had tried the lube on a couple of non-flashlight items, and I found the viscosity low and that it would not say in place, but migrated. And the stuff didn't work as well as Nye's lubes, SuperLube, or other Teflon-fortified lubes. So I threw it all away.


----------



## polkiuj (Apr 22, 2009)

I use automotive rubber grease on my O-rings.

And high temperature bearing grease for my threads.

They're smooth like butter and cheap. I have enough to last me 10 lifetimes.

=D


----------



## Oddjob (Apr 22, 2009)

JML said:


> I want to caution all about Magnalube. I bought some last summer, and of the several tubes I had on hand, every single one had the plastic cap break by itself, apparently deteriorated by the lube (I've never had this happen before). I had tried the lube on a couple of non-flashlight items, and I found the viscosity low and that it would not say in place, but migrated. And the stuff didn't work as well as Nye's lubes, SuperLube, or other Teflon-fortified lubes. So I threw it all away.


 
I've had pretty good results with Magnalube on my lights:shrug:. I also tried it on my Sebenza and it is working well. It does smell though.


----------



## Twinkle-Plank (Apr 22, 2009)

Would a high grade synthetic car oil work?


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## tedshred (Apr 22, 2009)

I keep all petroleum products out as they can do funny things to certain plastics (some not all) and rubbers. 

I like to use a 35 weight silicone oil for threads and o-rings. Hobby stores sell it for rc race shocks. It's thick enough to stay put and thin enough to make things slick without getting gummy. I put a small amount on (like a drop) run my finger all around the threads and o-ring, then wipe off any extra.


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## chmsam (Apr 23, 2009)

Oils tend to migrate both into and out of where you put them and that can get messy. A very small amount of grease tends to stay put. Also, in my experience oils tend to attract dust, lint, grit, and crud. Do a thorough search for an "MSDS" on the product you want to use to determine if it is both safe for the light (and parts like o-rings) and safe for you.

Also I just want to take a moment and let rookies know that there are a lot of threads on this topic (this one is a little over a year old). For those who are new to this, searching on the topic and also looking in the "General Flashlight Forum - Threads of interest" sticky at the top of this section of the forum will often provide an answer to basics on this and other topics. I'd like to politely suggest that newbies specifically and other folks in general take a few minutes to research to see if what they are about to post might have been already discussed in some detail. 

I most definitely don't want to discourage new ideas and discussion but some parts of this topic are not only not new, but have been well and truly worked over before. A few tired comments and a thread like this gets closed real quick.


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## bcwang (Sep 29, 2009)

Oddjob said:


> I've had pretty good results with Magnalube on my lights:shrug:. I also tried it on my Sebenza and it is working well. It does smell though.



Oh the smell... I hate the smell of magnalube. That is one reason I don't want to use it anymore whether it works well or not. I have trouble cleaning the threads off well enough to get rid of the smell completely. I'm glad I only tried it on one light. Now to figure a way to completely get rid of the smell.....

I wonder what else I can use it on that doesn't require me to have to smell the stuff at all.


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