# Fenix L1T / L2T



## Aero (Apr 30, 2006)

Hello,

Thought I'd de-lurk




as I haven't seen these lights mentioned yet

Fenix L1T
Two levels of output, changing by turning the bezel (patent)
Current regulationThe high level: 37 Lumens, 3.3 hours (Ni-HM)
The low level: Constant 10 Lumens, 10 hours (Ni-HM)

http://www.fenixlight.com/flashlight/fenixl1t.htm

Fenix L2T
Two levels of output, changing by turning the bezel (patent)
Current regulation 
The high level: Constant 55 Lumens, 3 hours (Ni-HM) 
The low level: Constant 10 Lumens, 22 hours (Ni-HM)
http://www.fenixlight.com/flashlight/fenixl2t.htm

Very interesting. I wonder what the pricing will be.


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## NeoteriX (Apr 30, 2006)

Darnit, just when I thought I satisfied my Fenix craving... 

edit: What's also interesting is that it appears the L1T/L2T share the same head with a 3 Watt Luxeon... So I'm guessing it's regulated and all that other good stuff.


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## lightningbug (Apr 30, 2006)

Wow, those look sweet!


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## cheapo (Apr 30, 2006)

MUST RESIST!

-David


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## fieldops (Apr 30, 2006)

Are you kidding me, man. I just finished buying the 2nd L2P for the backpack :shakehead

All right, how much are they? :naughty:


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## Mags (Apr 30, 2006)

They dont look too tactical to me. The specs dont impress me that much either. I wish the L2T would look better, perhaps have a tactical rubber grip or something. Like the L6 or C3.

Edit: hmm has this been posted yet?
Fenix P1 Rocket
http://www.fenixlight.com/flashlight/fenixp1.htm


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## idleprocess (Apr 30, 2006)

Fexix has _patented_ what's already commonplace amongst CPF modders? OK...


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## :)> (Apr 30, 2006)

Unbelievable. My wife will never understand why I buy so many lights. At least these aren't $200.00+.

You guys will understand when I buy another light... right?

-Goatee


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## Planterz (Apr 30, 2006)

Mags said:


> They dont look too tactical to me. The specs dont impress me that much either. I wish the L2T would look better, perhaps have a tactical rubber grip or something. Like the L6 or C3.


It doesn't say anywhere that "T" means "tactical". Maybe it means "turbo". Or "twostage". Or "T bin". Or "twist". Or "tacosauce".



Ok, maybe not "tacosauce".


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## LouRoy (Apr 30, 2006)

I think the L2T looks a lot better than the L2P. Oh man, another light to buy.


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## :)> (Apr 30, 2006)

Where can these be purchased? 

-Goatee


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## bucken (Apr 30, 2006)

And it also accepts a Lithium Ion battery, taking the output up to 75 lumens... Sweeeeeet!


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## igabo (Apr 30, 2006)

Man, now the Fenix REALLY blows away my Q3. Must.. Resist..


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## Planterz (Apr 30, 2006)

That assumes that a 14500 will *fit*. They don't fit in the L1P (battery is too long) without modding.


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## cheapo (Apr 30, 2006)

I'll pass on this, because they arent bright enough for me. I'll take a P1T though.

-David


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## carrot (Apr 30, 2006)

I'm interested... The main failing factor of the L1P with a dual-stage mod is that the light just begs to be clicked. And turning it on by twisting the tail never felt right to me... I think I'll want an L2T, but I'll wait to see other people's impressions so I know what I'm getting into. Now when is that P1 hitting the market?


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## Paul6ppc (Apr 30, 2006)

So will the short body 123 and cr2 fit? An easy way to get 75 lumens and rechargable! 123 primary and rcr123 should give a good output from the L1T!
I hope it will work.


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## Apollo (Apr 30, 2006)

Looks like I'll have to get a couple of these new Fenixes. :rock:


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## Long John (Apr 30, 2006)

@Paul6ppc

The 123 cells will not fit. The T's are AA-body's, but the 14500 liIon will fit.

Best regards

____
Tom


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## barnabe (Apr 30, 2006)

So it seems we have here the next must-have flashlights...

oh no....must resist, must resist, must resist...


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## Planterz (Apr 30, 2006)

Long John said:


> @Paul6ppc
> 
> The 123 cells will not fit. The T's are AA-body's, but the 14500 liIon will fit.


He's refering to the aftermarket CR2 and 123A bodies made by nekomane. Unless there's something special about the body or contacts of the LxT series, I see no reason why those shouldn't work.


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## Bozzlite (Apr 30, 2006)

Dang it! Those links don't work for me. I wanna see 'em!


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## drizzle (Apr 30, 2006)

idleprocess said:


> Fexix has _patented_ what's already commonplace amongst CPF modders? OK...


I doubt they have patented the _concept_ of changing the stage by rotating the bezel. More likely they have come up with an original design for doing it that they have patented.

BTW, I'm drawing a blank; what lights out there change their stage by rotating the bezel? There's probably a ton of them and I just can't think of them.

And, boy am i getting tempted to get one.


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## Planterz (Apr 30, 2006)

The CR2 Ion and McLux III change stages by bezel rotation. Plenty more change with tail rotation.

It would certainly appear that Fenix is well in touch with CPF and the flashlight community. They know what we want, and they're giving it to us.


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## fieldops (Apr 30, 2006)

I'll bet 4Sevens already has an order put in!

We'll all be down to our last buck soon :laughing:


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## Paul6ppc (Apr 30, 2006)

The Orb raw goes from high to low by twisting,and I think the firefly III does.

I was refering to the aftermarket short bodies bynekomane , I hope the threads are the same.


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## chvylvr35O (Apr 30, 2006)

It also looks as if they both share the same head because the head says "L1T/L2T" on both of them. So if the L1T has a head like the L2P with 2 stage that will be sweet.


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## Chris201W (Apr 30, 2006)

Sigh...I guess I'll have to buy this one too. I did the two stage mod to my L1P, but reverted back to the original unmodded configuration because, like carrot, I didn't like the L1P as a twisty. Just something about it...

Do you think the output on high will be the same as the L1P? Runtime?


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## Haz (Apr 30, 2006)

Chris201W said:


> Sigh...I guess I'll have to buy this one too. I did the two stage mod to my L1P, but reverted back to the original unmodded configuration because, like carrot, I didn't like the L1P as a twisty. Just something about it...
> 
> Do you think the output on high will be the same as the L1P? Runtime?


 
The L1P quotes 46 lumens
and L1T quotes 37 lumens (3.3 hrs Ni-Mh)


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## cheapo (Apr 30, 2006)

those lumen ratings cant be right, why would they make a new 3w AA thats not as bright as a 1w AA?

-David


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## Mags (Apr 30, 2006)

If the threads are indeed the same maybe these "T" heads can fit on regular L1P and L2P bodies? Maybe if that is true then fenix may even sell the heads by themselves?






Planterz said:


> It doesn't say anywhere that "T" means "tactical". Maybe it means "turbo". Or "twostage". Or "T bin". Or "twist". Or "tacosauce".
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, maybe not "tacosauce".




Heh sorry Ive gotten so used to the whole xxT = tactical light I forgot to read the discription for the slightest mention of the light bein tactical...


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## Haz (Apr 30, 2006)

cheapo said:


> those lumen ratings cant be right, why would they make a new 3w AA thats not as bright as a 1w AA?
> 
> -David


 
I would think so too, however these are figures quoted on the Fenix website, this is my conclusion...

incorrect figures listed for the L1T
or perhaps


Fenix are now becoming more honest with their lumen figures


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## idleprocess (Apr 30, 2006)

drizzle said:


> I doubt they have patented the _concept_ of changing the stage by rotating the bezel. More likely they have come up with an original design for doing it that they have patented.
> 
> BTW, I'm drawing a blank; what lights out there change their stage by rotating the bezel? There's probably a ton of them and I just can't think of them.



tvodrd's CR2 II
Endeavour's CR2 Ion
McGizmo's McLux PD-III

There are a number of ways to accomplish 2-stage brightness with a twist-head adjustment. One way is to switch your driver like the PD-III & CR2 ION - they both have a switching mechanism in the head. Another way is to put a resistor across the ground connection to the cell to drop the driver into a low-current mode; McGizmo did this with the Aleph series and plenty of folks have done it with the L1P (myself included). The second method is most often implemented at the tailcap.

Surefire's U2 uses a with magnet that triggers hall-effect sensors in the body as its captive ring rotates.


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## jbg23 (Apr 30, 2006)

Idleprocess.........could you please explain how you made your l1p two stage by twisting? Or point me in the direction of an explanation? I would love to do this to mine.


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## idleprocess (Apr 30, 2006)

I did not modify the L1 to change brightness with a twist. What I did was modify the switch by soldering a 10-ohm resistor across the tailswitch contacts. Twist the head to activate the light and click the switch to select brightness. I don't know exactly why this works, just that it's a common trick for boost drivers.


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## srvctec (Apr 30, 2006)

Another light I gotta buy. Stop the madness!!


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## 4sevens (Apr 30, 2006)

:)> said:


> Where can these be purchased?
> 
> -Goatee



I have them on pre-order on my website now...
http://fenix-store.com/index.php?cPath=22

I'm told they're shipping out May 5th


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## morituri (Apr 30, 2006)

I'm really glad I held off buying my first Fenix last week. I think I'll wait for the full Fenix series before buying anything. The problem is, they ALL look good!


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## txaggiechl (Apr 30, 2006)

Dang, and I just picked up a L1P & L2P! Oh well, I'm sure they'll make nice gifts so I can feed my habit with the xxT series! 

Sweet! Did anyone else notice they increased the max voltage from 3.2v to 4.0v on the L2T head? That's awesome, now there's no worries about using LiON rechargeables that come off a little hot!


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## onthebeam (May 1, 2006)

4sevens said:


> I have them on pre-order on my website now...
> http://fenix-store.com/index.php?cPath=22
> 
> I'm told they're shipping out May 5th


 David, the heads will screw off, right? And, judging from the labeling on the head, both lights share the identical head, right?

I want to use with the CR2 tube I just picked up from you. . .


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## Navck (May 1, 2006)

bucken said:


> And it also accepts a Lithium Ion battery, taking the output up to 75 lumens... Sweeeeeet!



You mean 30-40 real lumens, and 75 Mag/Fenix/Inova lumens
If HDS rates their U60XR for 60 lumens, and it beats a 100 Lumen Inova T4, I know somethings wrong. I also know someone who has a U60 that on level 3 (30 lumens) matched a Fenix L1p output.
And if Surefire rates a L2 for 60 lumens, and easily blasts away a "100 lumen Inova"...

I'm just a bit annoyed by manufactures overrating their lumen outputs.


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## InfidelCastro (May 1, 2006)

Looks ok, still two problems I have with this light, which are the same problems I've always had with Fenix lights aside from where they're made:


1. I'm guessing there's still no momentary on function. This is a biggie for people who use their lights alot everyday/night and don't want to wear out a tailcap from hundreds of clicks everyday/night.

2. STILL NO POCKETCLIP!!!


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## InfidelCastro (May 1, 2006)

LouRoy said:


> I think the L2T looks a lot better than the L2P. Oh man, another light to buy.




Yea, at least it has a little bit of knurling on it for a change so you can hold onto it.


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## InfidelCastro (May 1, 2006)

:)> said:


> Where can these be purchased?
> 
> -Goatee





I wonder too, ya can't even buy a P1 yet, and I heard about them a month ago..


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## InfidelCastro (May 1, 2006)

4sevens said:


> I have them on pre-order on my website now...
> http://fenix-store.com/index.php?cPath=22
> 
> I'm told they're shipping out May 5th




Do you know if it's going to have momentary function or will I have to click it off and on everytime still? I suspect I'd go through a tailcap every two weeks if they still don't have momentary function.


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## jclarksnakes (May 1, 2006)

Resist HECK!!! I have to have this one. Show me the way to the 4Sevens sales thread. 
Jc


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## yazkaz (May 1, 2006)

Have once thought about getting the L2P but resisted, seeing all the (-ve)testimony on this forum. And now it pays off.

But how does the L2T compare with an Liteflux LF1? The L2T looks promising but will it have the same problems in the L2P? Also, does the L2T use a standard type or reverse type clickie switch, and how does it compare with the P1? Kindly advise.


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## Haz (May 1, 2006)

... can't wait to see the 'L0T'


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## txaggiechl (May 1, 2006)

@ 4sevens:

Any way you can get word to Fenix about the reverse clicky/momentary on switch? The current switches on the L1P/L2P are my only gripe with these lights. If their tailcap functioned like the Surefire clicky's, I'm sure they'd sell the dog outta these lights!


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## Flashfirstask?later (May 1, 2006)

4sevens said:


> I have them on pre-order on my website now...
> http://fenix-store.com/index.php?cPath=22
> 
> I'm told they're shipping out May 5th


Must resist ..must resist... aaaaahahahaaa

At least I have a JETBEAM JET-AA coming soon to help resist temptation for a short while heh.


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## Solstice (May 1, 2006)

Flashfirstask?later said:


> Must resist ..must resist... aaaaahahahaaa
> 
> At least I have a JETBEAM JET-AA coming soon to help resist temptation for a short while heh.



Yeah, so do I- but want one of these too ! I suppose I'll wait to check out the Jetbeam first, but I wish the 2 stage switch shipped with the unit rather than have to pay another round of shipping and waiting again for it to come out some time in May.

I'm sure the L1T will be popular- it is a direct improvement of the L1P (and another oportunity for Fenix to get our money all over again ) That said, there still are some improvements that some folks have mentioned that don't seem to be addressed this round, namely a momentary, quieter switch (with should be easy with this light since the level selection isn't done with the clicky) and a better finish. 

Really, I'm just knit-picking though. I love a light that can switch on and off seperately from level selection, and the fact that the on/off is now given over to the switch with a bezel rotation for level selection seems like a very intuitive solution. If the JetBeam 2 stage proves awkward to use, its good to know there will be another nice mid-priced solution out there.

I wonder how much of these lights are compatible with other Fenix parts. It looks like aside from the etching, the L1Ps body tube is identical. All of the AA L-series tailcaps also look the same. Additionally, the L1T and L2T share the same head (since its a 3 watt rated from .9-4 volts- a page from Jetbeam's book). Because of this, I wonder whether it would make the most sense to get the L2T for the different body style and still be able to use the head to make my own "L1T" with L1P parts. Just a thought. 

I'll be watching this thread .

Just one more comment. IMHO, if the levels stated by Fenix are correct, then I feel like low will be WAY too bright for me, and not different enough from high. I use low for closeup work where I don't want to totally stomp on my night vision, reading in bed, etc. While 10 lumens is a good "general" level of light, it would be too bright for the tasks I mentioned (I know, because I used to have an HDS that came on at 10 lumens). I prefer the 10 ohm mod level, which I guess is about 1-2 lumens. Just my 2 cents.


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## moraino (May 1, 2006)

I wish it is the E series that just came out. I belive "E" means electronic for multiple level of brightness like HDS. 

I can't afford a HDS but hopefully E series is a poor man's HDS.


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## yellow (May 1, 2006)

looks like the days of home-modding are over (at least for me).
Totally same than my mods, cheaper AND better machining.
(maybe a little too bright on low, but ...)


if only the heads would offer some cutout to stop the lights from rolling around...


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## Owen (May 1, 2006)

txaggiechl said:


> @ 4sevens:
> 
> Any way you can get word to Fenix about the reverse clicky/momentary on switch? The current switches on the L1P/L2P are my only gripe with these lights. If their tailcap functioned like the Surefire clicky's, I'm sure they'd sell the dog outta these lights!


Likewise. I need a L2T like I need a hole in the head, but just from looking at the pics...I WANT one. I might buy one. Momentary on would be a selling point, as would a premium bin like in the L1P.
I love the way the body looks, and love my SF flashlights with the "combatgrip". Amazing how a little contouring can make it soooo much more desirable. Reminiscent of the Z3 and M3, which is a very good thing, IMO.


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## GhostReaction (May 1, 2006)

Are these L_T series made to run on primaries or NiMH?
Will the L2T head able to fit in the L1p head? 
Now I m waiting for the L0T > 2 stage of the L0p to appear


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## Planterz (May 1, 2006)

Most likely they'll work on alkalines, but don't expect them to work well. Runtime on the L2P is pretty much the same on alkalines vs. NiMHs despite the lower capacity of the NiMH, and on an L1P, alkalines kinda suck. Since the L2T has full regulation like the L2P, I'd expect similar performance with either on alkalines.

I'm sure lithiums will work great in either, just like the L_Ps, if you don't mind the cost.


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## InfidelCastro (May 1, 2006)

Planterz said:


> Runtime on the L2P is pretty much the same on alkalines vs. NiMHs despite the lower capacity of the NiMH,




According to the runtime graphs I've seen, the L2P is 1.5 hours on Alkalines vs. 4 hours on 2500mAh NiMh rechargeables.

I do not know what you speak of when you say that NiMh have lower capacity than Alkalines, I thought the newest versions had capacity equivalent to or greater than the standard alkaline primary cell? Perhaps I'm mistaken..


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## Planterz (May 1, 2006)

InfidelCastro said:


> According to the runtime graphs I've seen, the L2P is 1.5 hours on Alkalines vs. 4 hours on 2500mAh NiMh rechargeables.
> 
> I do not know what you speak of when you say that NiMh have lower capacity than Alkalines, I thought the newest versions had capacity equivalent to or greater than the standard alkaline primary cell? Perhaps I'm mistaken..


I was looking at lighthound's graphs (this isn't the first time I've mentioned lighthound's graphs and someone's disagreed, maybe lighthound's are flawed). 

I guess NiMH technology might be caught up to alkalines capacity-wise. The latest Sanyos seem very stout indeed.


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## paulr (May 1, 2006)

Alkalines have slightly more capacity than nimh per the usual method of measurement, which means at low current, like a radio. At high current (flashlight, digicam), nimh stomps alkaline.


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## dmz (May 1, 2006)

Are the Fenix L1T / L2T reverse clickies?


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## HonorKnight (May 1, 2006)

I wish I had known about this a month and a half ago. I would have waited and bought an L1T instead of an L1P. Heck, I would have bought one for my fiancee too. I bought her an Inova X1 instead for the runtime. She's going to think I'm crazy if I get her another light so soon. I may get one of the L2T's instead of the new 2AA maglites. And one for my girl. Still have to get a 3AA maglite of course.


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## Long John (May 1, 2006)

Some thoughts.

This lights will be great.

But the runtime will definitly less than the L1P/L2P. With nimh's and with Alkalines. The 3watter sucks minimum the twice of energy.
To use this ones with 3,6 or 3,7 Volt LiIons (4,2 V out of the charger) can be a problem with the heat.
They have a diameter of 2cm and the electronic is directly behind the ermitter.
In such a small case, it can be a problem to utilize the whole capacity of the ermitter (with more than 3Volt).

Best regards

____
Tom


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## Planterz (May 1, 2006)

Don't worry HonorKnight, by the time the LT series is out, someone else will release something even better and you'll want one of those too. "Keeping up" is an expensive proposition.


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## Dawg (May 1, 2006)

Man.....Ain't it the truth!:naughty:


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## HonorKnight (May 1, 2006)

They were probably using the new sanyo 2700 mAh batteries when they did their runtime tests.


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## Meduza (May 1, 2006)

If the L2T comes anywhere near my Blaster 3P in brightness... then it will be my new favorite


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## barnabe (May 1, 2006)

I wonder if LxP bodies would fit on L1T/L2T bezel.
Maybe their patented two stages selection rotating bezel includes a special body, where O rings or the thread are different, less tight.
I wonder why they didn't add some fancy knurl onto the sliperry L1T/L2T bezel...


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## Flash007 (May 1, 2006)

I think L1T/L2T are underdriven LuxIII, like the P1.
Maybe 300-350 mA to the Lux. Not bad if they are really flat current regulation.
The 2-stage switch from factory is a good news too.

My MM L1P (490mA to the Lux) with 2-stage switch 5 ohms is perfect for me : super bright for one hour with 2500 mAh accu (very good regulation), and very useful low mode when high output not necessary.
Plus I have easy access to the Lux, if I want to replace it in the future with a better one.

One important drawback in the Fenix L1P/L2P is the lack of grip.
In the L1T/L2T, it seems Fenix did not make particular effort to improve the grip. 
L2T in the pictures has a slightly different (better) body, but I don't think the grip is much better. We'll see.

Prices are identical with the L1P/L2P, it's the good news !

For information, a MM L2P (3,3 watts to the Lux for one hour) is also on the way (from 4sevens) ! I hope the delivery will be done during this week (ordered 04/17/2006).

Thanks for your superb mods Millermods (Eric) and 4sevens for offering the Fenix line for international customers ! :goodjob: :goodjob:


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## GrooveRite (May 1, 2006)

Just when I thought I was happy with my L1P and L2P.....


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## zespectre (May 1, 2006)

I knew I had waited for a reason... oh wait that was just because I was broke!


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## tommymeboy (May 1, 2006)

I just put in my pre-order for an L2T, I'm already waiting for a P1. I like the looks of that light, and I like the length. Ive been using my L2P with a FenixStore CR123 body, and it makes me laugh to see so much light come out of that little thing! But I'm not used to it, there's nothin' to hold on to. (So what am I gonna do with a P1?) Whatever, they're all cool!


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## Brighteyez (May 1, 2006)

"Oh what a tangled web we weave,
When first we practice to deceive!"

It's pretty much common knowledge these days that manufacturers in China and Taiwan are often deceptive in their claims and they aren't very good about covering their tracks. 



Haz said:


> The L1P quotes 46 lumens
> and L1T quotes 37 lumens (3.3 hrs Ni-Mh)


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## txaggiechl (May 1, 2006)

Since the price stayed the same and lumens dropped, I'm wondering if they went with a lower binned LED in combination with the 2-state head to hit the same price point as the L2P? 

Maybe Lux III's are cheaper to aquire these days due simply to greater demand???


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## Kelvino (May 1, 2006)

zespectre said:


> I knew I had waited for a reason... oh wait that was just because I was broke!


Oooohhhh yesssss! Just saved same money and now I know where it goes. :shakehead


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## jsr (May 1, 2006)

Wow, looks like Fenix is really striking back at their competitors (Jetbeam and Triton) with these nice new offerings. I prefer single cell lights so never really thought much about the L2P and I didn't want to get an L1P for several reasons (poor regulation (virtually none really) on alkaline, poor HCA quality, fair amount of switch issues, and at the time, a price higher than I could justify for the performance and issues given the available competition). I did, however, really like the designs of the Fenix L-series, sleek and clean. The new features of the LxT-series might be enough for me to overlook the other shortcomings and finally get my first Fenix light. I do have a Jet1 on the way also and I like the looks because it looks like the Fenix (same sleek and clean design), but I like the natural finish of the Jet1 better. Hopefully that will quench my need for a new light long enough to see what else Fenix offers, and what that E-series is. Ooh, that new L1T is tempting tho...I guess it's good to be broke sometimes...err, nevermind, it still stucks.


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## EVOeight (May 1, 2006)

I will definately being buying the L1T. I will pass on the P1 though because I only buy clickies...


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## ViReN (May 1, 2006)

I am not so excited, Unless they have changed the reflector. *The reflector design is FLAWED*
This is why, I am saying so.
Left is Reflector of Fenix L2P Right is Peak LED's KinoBay






Notice how much more light is being thrown forward with KinoBay Reflector....


What is the use of having a AR Glass and T Binned LED if you dont have a good reflector, all other things will go waste...

Also, I am a bit concerned about the Nickel Plating (it is not that efficient) as compared with Vacum Coated Aluminium Reflectors (with base of Plastic or Aluminium.. dosent really matter, as long as the plastic reflector can handle the higher tempratures without physically deforming)

Also note that (as read some where on CPF) the R Binned Lux 1 is equivalent of T binned Lux III (with the latest joker LED's) both the Luxeon's are SAME, except that they are binned at different currents. (again a marketing gimmic?).. Physically Both Luxeons are running off same production line with same materials. At times R bin will OUT perform T Binned Luxeon III

I am sure, there will be some folks that will come out with a Two Stage Clicky, I wonder how waterproof the two stage rotating arrangement will be... (especially if it is different from what FFII, McGizmo's Lights, CR2Ion etc...)


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## greenLED (May 1, 2006)

What's the distance from the wall on those shots, ViReN?

I have an L1P and it only looks like that when it's a couple of inches away from a wall. It's not like a LuxV donut hole, where I can see it at any distance.


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## Mags (May 1, 2006)

barnabe said:


> I wonder if LxP bodies would fit on L1T/L2T bezel.
> Maybe their patented two stages selection rotating bezel includes a special body, where O rings or the thread are different, less tight.
> I wonder why they didn't add some fancy knurl onto the sliperry L1T/L2T bezel...



Aye, tis what I said 'fore.


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## Chris201W (May 1, 2006)

If the tailcap is the same on these new lights, why not do the traditional two-stage mod with the resistor in addition to the two-stage bezel twist? It would almost be like having an HDS EDC Basic:

High bezel and High clicky for "High Mode"
Low bezel and High clicky for "Primary Mode"
High bezel and Low clicky for "Secondary Mode"
Low bezel and Low clicky for "Low Mode"

The clicky would toggle between two sets of highs and lows, and the bezel would switch between the high and low in each of those sets.

On and Off would be via tailcap twist.

If that works electronically, that would be very cool. It would definately take two hands to do anything efficiently, but still cool.


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## barnabe (May 1, 2006)

I prefer to have a clickie to switch on/off, to rotate the bezel to select low/high mode. I think two levels for this non tactical type of flashlight is enough.
The only thing is I wish Fenix had changed the reverse clickie for a "straight" clickie....


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## HonorKnight (May 1, 2006)

barnabe said:


> I prefer to have a clickie to switch on/off, to rotate the bezel to select low/high mode. I think two levels for this non tactical type of flashlight is enough.
> The only thing is I wish Fenix had changed the reverse clickie for a "straight" clickie....


They probably read the stuff here, so they may have changed that too. Maybe not. We'll have to wait and see.


----------



## :)> (May 1, 2006)

HonorKnight said:


> I wish I had known about this a month and a half ago. I would have waited and bought an L1T instead of an L1P. Heck, I would have bought one for my fiancee too. I bought her an Inova X1 instead for the runtime. She's going to think I'm crazy if I get her another light so soon. I may get one of the L2T's instead of the new 2AA maglites. And one for my girl. Still have to get a 3AA maglite of course.




HonorKnight, 

Your fiancee probably already knows that you are crazy if she knows how much time you spend on this website.

Regarding the L2T instead of the maglights... you can stop kidding yourself, you will buy the maglites too. 

Happy hunting!


----------



## :)> (May 1, 2006)

Here is my plan. I intend to purchase the L2T and take the head and tailcap from it for use on my Nekomane CR123 adapter. I can then take my L2P head and put it on the nice looking 2 x AA body of the L2T. 

I was never happy with the L2P body but I love the thought of up to 6 hours with 2 x Lithium AA batteries. 

I will likely end up purchasing the L1T also but not first.

-Goatee


----------



## fieldops (May 1, 2006)

I pre-ordered an L2T today :shrug:. What the hell else was I gonna do.


----------



## amanichen (May 1, 2006)

greenLED said:


> What's the distance from the wall on those shots, ViReN?
> 
> I have an L1P and it only looks like that when it's a couple of inches away from a wall. It's not like a LuxV donut hole, where I can see it at any distance.


Agreed. The L2P I bought last week needs to be 3" from a surface to create any sort of hole. At 1" the ring becomes strong and even then the ring borders on painful to look at. At any normal distance, it doesn't have a hole.


----------



## GarageBoy (May 1, 2006)

Don't forget, the BOTH levels are regulated, opposed to resistored output


----------



## Navck (May 1, 2006)

GarageBoy said:


> Don't forget, the BOTH levels are regulated, opposed to resistored output



Not on the L1T, notice the "75 lumen" claim, sounds like a bunch of direct driving there, possible current limiting however. Notice that only the low level on the L1T is noted as regulated.


----------



## chanamasala (May 1, 2006)

Navck said:


> Not on the L1T, notice the "75 lumen" claim, sounds like a bunch of direct driving there, possible current limiting however. Notice that only the low level on the L1T is noted as regulated.



Aren't the heads most likely the same on both? If so, maybe if the source is less than 3V it can't regulate?

Two questions that I need answered from Fenix:
1. Will the L1P/L2P bodies fit onto these new models?
2. Are the heads the same on L1T and L2T?

This determines whether/which I buy as I hope to use a CR123 tube on whichever has regulation at both levels.

If 1. Yes 2. Yes I buy the L1T
If 1. No 2. No I buy None
If 1. No 2. Yes I might want an L1T
If 1. Yes 2. No I buy L2T


----------



## carrot (May 1, 2006)

chanamasala said:


> Two questions that I need answered from Fenix:
> 1. Will the L1P/L2P bodies fit onto these new models?
> 2. Are the heads the same on L1T and L2T?


From what I understand from 4sevens, the answer is "yes" to both. I hope this means a price drop in the L1P and L2P.


----------



## cheapo (May 1, 2006)

if the lumen ratings went down, then that just stinks.

-David


----------



## :)> (May 1, 2006)

It looks to me that the first part of the description was taken from the L1P description. 

-Goatee


----------



## Paul6ppc (May 1, 2006)

So can I get a L1T and put it on my l2p body? Then put it on my cr123 nekomane body, then run a L1T with a 14500 li on at 75 lumens? If so this will be a very versitle light!


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## HonorKnight (May 1, 2006)

cheapo said:


> if the lumen ratings went down, then that just stinks.
> 
> -David


Since both the L1T and L2T use the same head, they probably engineered it to work mostly with 2AA and let the 1AA brightness work with that. I think this was their move to stay competitve with Maglite's 2AA lux3 light and Peak LED's Pacific Lux3 AAA/AA/CR2 light.


----------



## jclarksnakes (May 1, 2006)

Preordered an L1T. Went ahead and preordered a P1 while I was there. I almost preordered another one of the 123 bodies too. I have one of the 123 bodies already and will see how it does with the L1T/L2T head. I like systems that you can swap parts around. 
jc


----------



## yellow (May 2, 2006)

interresting that most of You do not like the improved runtime over less output.

Given L1T: almost double the runtime (3.3 vs. 1.7 (?) hours on high),
thats much more a *useful working time* and will see a lot more potential customers

The L2T obviously sacrifices runtime for output, 
and be honest: 10 Lumens more/less, who notices this? 
Wish there would be at least real 4-5 hours with NiMhs, I get 3.5 from my L2P at best.

Hopefully all levels and all lights will now be regulatet


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## Long John (May 2, 2006)

I don't think so, that the runtime with the T-types will be longer than the P-types with the same kind of battery.
The T's are 3watter and the P's are 1watter. So the runtime must be less.

Best regards

____
Tom


----------



## Somy Nex (May 2, 2006)

LEDs get more efficient when underdriven, so i expect to see a proportionally greater benefit in runtime relative to the drop in output. and honestly, for a light of this size and output, that little drop will be hardly noticeable, and maybe even more useful for close up tasks that small lights are mostly used for. and when you want brightness to "impress" the unenlightened, you can run the LuxIII at spec with a 14500. 

you can't just compare runtimes at spec of a 1W on a 1.5v nimh/alkaline/lithium with the 3W at spec on a li-on either. lots of factors there in place as well.


----------



## frisco (May 2, 2006)

yellow said:


> interresting that most of You do not like the improved runtime over less output.
> 
> Given L1T: almost double the runtime (3.3 vs. 1.7 (?) hours on high),
> thats much more a *useful working time* and will see a lot more potential customers
> ...




Depends on what your needs are....... I need output for this size/class of light. My main work light is a L2P/RCR2 nekomane. 20-30 minutes runtime. I may use the light 20 times a day for 2 seconds to 30 seconds bursts. I charge the battery every couple of days. By useing the RCR2 the L2P is about 80% brighter. 

I'm a little (allot!) confused on the new series of Fenix's.... we will soon find out what the real deal is!

frisco


----------



## onthebeam (May 2, 2006)

frisco said:


> My main work light is a L2P/RCR2 nekomane. 20-30 minutes runtime. I may use the light 20 times a day for 2 seconds to 30 seconds bursts. I charge the battery every couple of days. By useing the RCR2 the L2P is about 80% brighter.
> 
> I'm a little (allot!) confused on the new series of Fenix's.... we will soon find out what the real deal is!
> 
> frisco


Frisco, which RCR2s do you use? The Nekomane CR2 is also my new fave. I've read that most don't fit. Are the ones you use regulated? The safety issues with unregulated ones have me a bit tentative on that route. Thanks.

I'm also confused on the T series. If they both share the same head, (assuming the same battery type( I thought the brightness should be the same for the L2T and L1T?


----------



## savumaki (May 2, 2006)

I may as well add my 'yelp' here again for a MOMENTARY ON switch. I cannot for the life of me understand 'momentary off' switches.

It's been said by others and I'll join in; I use my light several times a day (or night) for short (read momentary) periods and do not appreciate having to turn a light like my Fenix full on and then turn it off right away, just wears out the switch.

I refuse to buy another light unless it has a momentary on switch.

Karl


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## Long John (May 2, 2006)

@ savumaki

I have made a 2stage-mod at my L1P. So I use the switch for high and low and the tailcap to twist for on/off.
If the light is off, I can push on the tailcap, I have a momentary light.

Best regards

___
Tom


----------



## amanichen (May 2, 2006)

savumaki said:


> I may as well add my 'yelp' here again for a MOMENTARY ON switch. I cannot for the life of me understand 'momentary off' switches.
> 
> It's been said by others and I'll join in; I use my light several times a day (or night) for short (read momentary) periods and do not appreciate having to turn a light like my Fenix full on and then turn it off right away, just wears out the switch.
> 
> ...


I've had a couple of my LED lights with "Down ON" "Up OFF" switches discharge while stored in a pocket, backpack, or glove box. The one with momentary on is especially susceptible. I'll admit this can be prevented by keeping the light in a sheath, or unloaded, but I want a light to be ready to go when I need it.

That said, the "reversed" arrangement of the Fenix, along with its lack of a momentary on means I can actually transport my light without having to keep it unloaded, or in a sheath. Accidental activations are far less likely.

I know these types of switches don't make sense to some people -- heck, I can't understand twist switches where turning the light off/on is the same as the procedure to remove the batteries and/or the bulb. My experience has taught me to never trust a cap, that isn't firmly tightened, for anything other than sitting on a shelf. The fact that the L2P has this type of switch rather than a twistie is one of the reasons I got it.

To each his own I guess


----------



## ViReN (May 2, 2006)

.


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## Planterz (May 2, 2006)

I don't think I agree with you ViReN. Just because there's a doughtnut hole at a short distance, that doesn't mean it's focused wrong. The fact is that there's a hole in the reflector, and if you reflect that hole, there's going to be a hole in the reflection at some focal points. In fact, I would say that if there _is no _ doughnut hole at some point, _that_ would mean the reflector isn't focused to maximum effeciency, because it's scattering the beam. But then, every flashlight reflector is designed to produce a certain beam shape, and "efficiency" might not be the actual aim of the reflector. 

Take it from me, my dad happens to be a Master Optitcan who builds his own telescopes, makes telescope (and other) optics for a living, and was even in the Guiness Book of World Records for having made the world's largest lens. EVERY telescope mirror I've seen him make or work on has a hole in the center. Including his next project.


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## savumaki (May 2, 2006)

Long John said:


> @ savumaki
> 
> I have made a 2stage-mod at my L1P. So I use the switch for high and low and the tailcap to twist for on/off.
> If the light is off, I can push on the tailcap, I have a momentary light.
> ...




Unfortunately I'd be off on a tangent with that set up, plus I have no need of two stage. I would be concerned about the twist being in the right position for the momentary on to work.
I just want a tail switch like my SF L2.
tks
Karl


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## ViReN (May 2, 2006)

.


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## 4sevens (May 2, 2006)

I must interject with a technical observation...
True parabolic reflectors are designed to throw parallel light from the
surface. Hence, if you were to take a macro picture of the reflector
any closer than 6 inches, you shouldn't see any yellow/green.
If you do see all yellow that means all the light is focused at 6in and you're
not getting parallel light. 

You need to take pictures at least 1-2 feet away and use your zoom to
frame the picture.

I've handled thousands of fenix's. I don't have time to examine them all,
but the ones I have looked at the look like this at 2 feet:






You either have a jacked fenix or you are taking macro shots. I'm assuming
the latter.

Here is another example of how to take a reflector shot.
upclose:





take 6 feet away with 10x zoom:





btw, these are IMS 20mm's


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## InfidelCastro (May 2, 2006)

amanichen said:


> I've had a couple of my LED lights with "Down ON" "Up OFF" switches discharge while stored in a pocket, backpack, or glove box. The one with momentary on is especially susceptible. I'll admit this can be prevented by keeping the light in a sheath, or unloaded, but I want a light to be ready to go when I need it.
> 
> That said, the "reversed" arrangement of the Fenix, along with its lack of a momentary on means I can actually transport my light without having to keep it unloaded, or in a sheath. Accidental activations are far less likely.
> 
> ...



That's why they make lock-out tailcaps. I've never had a light accidently activate itself anyways. That's the least of my worries. If I was THAT worried about it (can't imagine) I would just unscrew the tailcap or something.


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## chanamasala (May 2, 2006)

amanichen said:


> I've had a couple of my LED lights with "Down ON" "Up OFF" switches discharge while stored in a pocket, backpack, or glove box. The one with momentary on is especially susceptible. I'll admit this can be prevented by keeping the light in a sheath, or unloaded, but I want a light to be ready to go when I need it.
> 
> That said, the "reversed" arrangement of the Fenix, along with its lack of a momentary on means I can actually transport my light without having to keep it unloaded, or in a sheath. Accidental activations are far less likely.
> 
> ...



Not to start a clicky preference war, but what amanichen says is exactly my feelings on the matter too.


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## amanichen (May 2, 2006)

InfidelCastro said:


> That's why they make lock-out tailcaps. I've never had a light accidently activate itself anyways. That's the least of my worries. If I was THAT worried about it (can't imagine) I would just unscrew the tailcap or something.


To be fair, the lights I spoke of didn't have tailcap switches, they were located near the head. I'll agree that a tailcap clicky switch is less likey to be accidentally activated, but not totally immune.


----------



## Marcus Aurelius (May 2, 2006)

ViReN said:


> Also note that (as read some where on CPF) the R Binned Lux 1 is equivalent of T binned Lux III (with the latest joker LED's) both the Luxeon's are SAME, except that they are binned at different currents. (again a marketing gimmic?).. Physically Both Luxeons are running off same production line with same materials. At times R bin will OUT perform T Binned Luxeon III



Does anyone have a pointer to this discussion? I would definitely like to know more If the LuxIII is no different than the LuxI in the L1P then you are effectively paying for the two stage switch and the supposedly thicker HAIII. Personally, if the output is less than the L1P I will buy the latter.


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## Somy Nex (May 2, 2006)

Marcus Aurelius said:


> Does anyone have a pointer to this discussion? I would definitely like to know more If the LuxIII is no different than the LuxI in the L1P then you are effectively paying for the two stage switch and the supposedly thicker HAIII. Personally, if the output is less than the L1P I will buy the latter.



I haven't seen that discussion, and am interested in seeing it too. From my understanding, by definition, to be rated a R-bin, the LED has to put out between 39.8-51.7 lumens from the emitter. a T-bin LED has to put out 67.2-87.4 lumens. if the R-bin indeed put out something in the range of a T-bin, then they'd rate it a T-bin...? =P

some LED binning info here: http://home.comcast.net/~theledguy/bin_codes/index.htm


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## drizzle (May 2, 2006)

Okay, I will weigh in on the clicky preference discussion. In the short time (one or two months) that I have had my L1P with reverse clicky I have somehow turned it on in my pocket and discharged the battery. I prefer the normal clicky for the momentary on capability and will take my chances with it discharging the battery. I don't think the chances are that much higher.


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## srvctec (May 2, 2006)

Marcus Aurelius said:


> Does anyone have a pointer to this discussion? I would definitely like to know more If the LuxIII is no different than the LuxI in the L1P then you are effectively paying for the two stage switch and the supposedly thicker HAIII. Personally, if the output is less than the L1P I will buy the latter.



But, don't overlook the fact you have the option of using 14500 Li-Ion batteries in the T series lights which should make these things *scream brightness, *not to mention being regulated with any battery, which the L1P did not have.


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## srvctec (May 2, 2006)

Double post because of "server too busy" issue.


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## MillerMods (May 3, 2006)

Can someone help me understand the legal stuff here? I'm talking about how Fenix put "(Patent)" next to 2 levels by twisting in the description of the L1T and L2T. So does that mean folks like me and Andrew Wynn can/could get sued for using our versions of this technique?


----------



## xochi (May 3, 2006)

*Hmmm.....*

Just saw this at fenixstore concerning the l2t

*Two levels of output, changing by turning the bezel (patent)

*as far as the last word is concerned :huh2:


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## NeoteriX (May 3, 2006)

MillerMods said:


> Can someone help me understand the legal stuff here? I'm talking about how Fenix put "(Patent)" next to 2 levels by twisting in the description of the L1T and L2T. So does that mean folks like me and Andrew Wynn can/could get sued for using our versions of this technique?


 See me after the Fall once I've taken my Intellectual Property Survey 

So, speaking from a completely unauthoritative standpoint, I think there won't be any problems. I did a quick lookup in patent office online database for Fenix and nothing relevant came up, so we know they haven't been granted anything yet. Maybe they're referring to a patent granted in China, which should not be relevant here. 

Furthermore, patents are ideally granted for designs or processes that are new, original, and innovative and I'm assuming the very evidence of the processes being done here already represent a prima facie case that the process isn't new, original, or innovative.

Besides, Fenix has no corporate body here in the US anyway right? They sell here through distributors, and they are probably in no position to have a legal representation here anyway. *shrug*


----------



## HonorKnight (May 3, 2006)

MillerMods said:


> Can someone help me understand the legal stuff here? I'm talking about how Fenix put "(Patent)" next to 2 levels by twisting in the description of the L1T and L2T. So does that mean folks like me and Andrew Wynn can/could get sued for using our versions of this technique?


The patent would only apply to the bezel switch that they are using. Your mod to the tail cap is something completely different.


----------



## HonorKnight (May 3, 2006)

NeoteriX said:


> I did a quick lookup in patent office online database for Fenix and nothing relevant came up, so we know they haven't been granted anything yet. Maybe they're referring to a patent granted in China, which should not be relevant here.


Just because a patent isn't on file at the moment doesn't mean it wont be.
Patent Cooperation Treaty excerpt:
Under the Paris Convention, someone who files an application in one country is forced to make a decision, within one year, as to whether to file patent applications in other countries which would claim priority from the first application.

Edit: I mean excerpt of a summary.


----------



## zulu45 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: Hmmm.....*

*I'm guessing it means that they own the patent rights to the particular type of mechanism to allow this, but it's not really going to do much. Everything gets stolen, and copied, and unfortunately, it'll be no different.*


----------



## frisco (May 3, 2006)

onthebeam said:


> Frisco, which RCR2s do you use? The Nekomane CR2 is also my new fave. I've read that most don't fit. Are the ones you use regulated? The safety issues with unregulated ones have me a bit tentative on that route. Thanks.
> 
> I'm also confused on the T series. If they both share the same head, (assuming the same battery type( I thought the brightness should be the same for the L2T and L1T?



Hey Beam,

I use the Protected rCR2's from AW. 

frisco


----------



## InfidelCastro (May 3, 2006)

Yea, I don't see how a reverse clicky makes it any less susceptible to being 'accidentally turned on' than a regular clicky.


I want a regular clicky and it appears most people are in that camp given the choice. The best of both worlds would be if they started using a standard clicky and still offered a reverse clicky for purchase for those few that absolutely had to have one, for whatever reason.


----------



## idleprocess (May 3, 2006)

InfidelCastro said:


> Yea, I don't see how a reverse clicky makes it any less susceptible to being 'accidentally turned on' than a regular clicky.



If a "reverse" clicky ends up under steady pressure, it won't activate until that pressure is released. I can't imagine that scenario mattering too often since most accidental activations seem to occur in situations where there will be a number of chances for a full "click" to occur... and like buttered bread always landing buttered side down, there will always be an odd number of clicks resulting in a flashlight that stays activated until the cell dies...


----------



## InfidelCastro (May 3, 2006)

idleprocess said:


> I can't imagine that scenario mattering too often since most accidental activations seem to occur in situations where there will be a number of chances for a full "click" to occur...




Which is basically what I was thinking. If you're worried that much about something putting pressure on the switch, best off to just take out the batteries or unscrew the tailcap.


----------



## HonorKnight (May 3, 2006)

I've been thinking about how the two-stage bezel switch works. I'm betting that something similar could be adapted for for the L0P and the P1. Those are probably the next improvements that Fenix will make. I think that's one of the reasons they did the bezel switch design. I can be easily adapted to all their lights if it proves to be a popular feature.


----------



## Handlobraesing (May 3, 2006)

eh.. but its expensive.. :-\


----------



## TORCH_BOY (May 3, 2006)

Just when I bought my L1P and L2P, I thought I did't need another light
I guess I was wrong. These are tempting


----------



## xochi (May 3, 2006)

cheapo said:


> those lumen ratings cant be right, why would they make a new 3w AA thats not as bright as a 1w AA?
> 
> -David



Sounds like they may have actually tested it. I believe the 1 watt figures were from lumileds 'best case' under ideal conditions and no photon management loses and were based on the bin- totally unrealistic. 

The patent thing has me wondering. Anybody looked it up? It had better be unique or that might be a very underhanded move.


----------



## xochi (May 3, 2006)

*Re: Hmmm.....*



zulu45 said:


> *I'm guessing it means that they own the patent rights to the particular type of mechanism to allow this, but it's not really going to do much. Everything gets stolen, and copied, and unfortunately, it'll be no different.*



Where are they guilty of this?


----------



## HonorKnight (May 3, 2006)

I hope they start making these lights with the new Luxeon K2 emitter soon. If I'm reading the datasheets correctly, you get about +50% brightness over the Lux3 at the same current.

Typical Flux at 700mA:
Lux3 (LXHL-PW09) 65 lumens typical forward voltage 3.7
K2 (LXK2-PW12-SOO) 100 lumens typical forward voltage 3.6

K2 at 350mA 60 lumens (min 51) typical forward voltage 3.42

Their site says the K2 produces 15-30% of the maxium of the other best emitters. Something like 1500mA at 3.85V tfv. Roughly the same as the maxium wattage of the Lux5, but with 140 lumen maxium output instead of 120. If I'm reading it correctly. Might not I suppose, since it's not really my field.


----------



## jclarksnakes (May 3, 2006)

I imagine Fenix will come out with some of these lights or something very similar with K2 emitters within the next 6 months. That will be a perfect reason to buy some more Fenix flashlights. You can never have too many flashlights!
jc


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## NeoteriX (May 3, 2006)

HonorKnight said:


> Just because a patent isn't on file at the moment doesn't mean it wont be.
> Patent Cooperation Treaty excerpt:
> Under the Paris Convention, someone who files an application in one country is forced to make a decision, within one year, as to whether to file patent applications in other countries which would claim priority from the first application.



Right.

If it's the case that this is a patent in China, we can only hope that China defends the intellectual property of its constituents as vigorously as it enforces US intellectual property at home...


----------



## MillerMods (May 3, 2006)

*Re: Hmmm.....*



xochi said:


> Where are they guilty of this?



My 3-stage mod for the L0P comes to mind. And really Andrew Wynn came up with another way of doing a twist bezel multi-stage first. And while I won't say they've (Fenix) stolen or even copied anything, I'm just concerned that it'd be like the one with the Patent wins sort of thing. I just do mods, so maybe I'm just worrying too much, but I don't want to get in trouble for modding thier flashlights if they have the right to wave a Patent in my face.....That's all.


----------



## HonorKnight (May 3, 2006)

jclarksnakes said:


> I imagine Fenix will come out with some of these lights or something very similar with K2 emitters within the next 6 months. That will be a perfect reason to buy some more Fenix flashlights. You can never have too many flashlights!
> jc


They might have to, since I imagine that's what Surefire is going to do with their AA light that they have under developement. Isn't competition wonderful?


----------



## Sean (May 3, 2006)

I wonder if the L1T/L2T head will work on the older L1P body?


----------



## Walt175 (May 3, 2006)

Sean said:


> I wonder if the L1T/L2T head will work on the older L1P body?


 
I'm wondering if they will fit on the CR2/CR123 bodies I just bought. That would be sweet!


----------



## yellow (May 3, 2006)

Handlobraesing said:


> eh.. but its expensive.. :-\


what do You mean?

calculation:
any better host: 10,-- 
Badboy / BB Nexgen: 14 - 20,--
Lux III: 13 - 30,--
Optic/Reflector: 4 - 6,--
small parts: 5 - 10,--
------------------
makes: 46 - 76,--
Okay, thats (my) individually adapted version, but with crude machining, optically imperfect, ...

Now compare these estimated prices with the perfect product (except for the klickie)


----------



## MillerMods (May 3, 2006)

HonorKnight said:


> I've been thinking about how the two-stage bezel switch works. I'm betting that something similar could be adapted for for the L0P and the P1. Those are probably the next improvements that Fenix will make. I think that's one of the reasons they did the bezel switch design. I can be easily adapted to all their lights if it proves to be a popular feature.



My L0P 3-stage mod uses a bezel switch. Seems like my work gets a lot less attention though despite fact that people that have my 3-stage L0P's love them.. :sigh: And not to forget that my mod also drives the Lux 2 times harder on high than the stock L0P.


----------



## HonorKnight (May 3, 2006)

MillerMods said:


> My L0P 3-stage mod uses a bezel switch. Seems like my work gets a lot less attention though despite fact that people that have my 3-stage L0P's love them.. :sigh: And not to forget that my mod also drives the Lux 2 times harder on high than the stock L0P.


Oops, sorry I overlooked your L0P mod. I guess I was had looked more at the L1P mods. I was considering the tail cap until I saw Fenix had a two stage light now. I think of the L0P as too small. Ironically, my girl thinks the L1P is too big and too bright. :huh: I may have to get the L0P with the mod. 
Even if they file their patent in the U.S. I can't imagine you would get more than a "cease and desist" order. It's not like you were making a new item just like their's and selling it. You are modifying their's after BUYING it. They are already getting a cut, so they don't have much cause to sue you for money lost. Heck, they would probably choose to ignore you because you increase their sales.


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## HonorKnight (May 3, 2006)

yellow said:


> what do You mean?
> 
> calculation:
> any better host: 10,--
> ...


I understand the Lux III's went down to $3.45 a couple of months ago when they started marketing the Lux K2's. Something like a 60% reduction in price.


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## Blindasabat (May 3, 2006)

HonorKnight said:


> I understand the Lux III's went down to $3.45 a couple of months ago when they started marketing the Lux K2's. Something like a 60% reduction in price.


The 'good' binned stars are still up around $30. Of course a 'lottery' unmounted emitter is a lot less.


----------



## xochi (May 3, 2006)

*Re: Hmmm.....*



MillerMods said:


> My 3-stage mod for the L0P comes to mind. And really Andrew Wynn came up with another way of doing a twist bezel multi-stage first. And while I won't say they've (Fenix) stolen or even copied anything, I'm just concerned that it'd be like the one with the Patent wins sort of thing. I just do mods, so maybe I'm just worrying too much, but I don't want to get in trouble for modding thier flashlights if they have the right to wave a Patent in my face.....That's all.



The McluxIII PD uses a two stage twist bezel as well.

My Post was a little criptic but what I meant was "where do they rip off intellectual property?" ---CHINA. NeoteriX's comments hit the nail on the head.

Fenix appears to be aware , either directly or indirectly of what goes on at CPF and if the "patent" turns out to be nothing more than a Mag-instruments-inspired power grab, well, it doesn't get much lower. I'd really like to know something more about this design.


----------



## xochi (May 3, 2006)

yellow said:


> Now compare these estimated prices with the perfect product (except for the klickie)



I've got to digress here. I'll give fenix credit for a decent product but the primary reason we've got 5 pages of posts (in two days) about these lights and at least 2 similar lights that followed wasn't because they are such high quality but that fenix read the market right and offered a product alot of people had been asking for but noone had offered. The fenix is a neat little light but the hoopla is way beyond the quality or performance of the light. Brass heatsink? Barely coated lense, ringy reflector, very poor HA3...there are numerous issues with the original L1P but given that we got to put alot of checkmarks in the boxes on our checklists, it was easy for folks to sing the merits and overlook the details when there wasn't another choice. 

I think that fenix has got enough hype for being the first to market and although this 'patent' thing gives me pause I think it best if we wait and actually judge the product for what it is and not the groupthink enthusiasm of those prone to fascination with the wizbang.


----------



## Long John (May 3, 2006)

Hello Xochi

I'm not agree with all of your thoughts.

I have a Fenix L1P and never had problems with heat, less output of the GLASLENCE, reflector or poor coating.
And no problems with the switch.

I can say, it works. Nothing against Surefire, but look at their threads.

For example, the U2 costs here 8 times the money of a Fenix. I have read many, many Posts of discontented owners.

I think, Fenix is a big deal, surely for me.

Best regards

____
Tom


----------



## xochi (May 3, 2006)

Long John said:


> Hello Xochi
> 
> I'm not agree with all of your thoughts.
> 
> ...



Please don't take my post as saying that the Fenix is junk. My #1 point is that since the L1P was offered in a market with a strong desire for a AA lux and none available , the exuberant reception made us more willing to overlook the shoddy bits. After the buzz has worn off and fenix has released a few more products, many prefer the L2P/l1p body combo and the ecstatic moans of anticipation for the L0P seem to have sobered dramatically in favor of the Arc and the Pacific. The P1 apparently offered nothing new and is a well represented niche but folks were going nuts over how great it would be just because it says Fenix. Some recieving Jet beams are saying how much better it is than the Fenix, wether that is the real deal or they are just marveling in awe at the fresh new green grass isn't clear.

I guess what I'm saying is that the reputation of Fenix is at least 50% hype.


----------



## Perfectionist (May 3, 2006)

As much as I love Fenix ..... I think I'm gonna go for the LRI Proton instead 

Now if only Fenix could improve the L range to include :
1) a proper "momentary on" clicky
2) a better "K2" LED
3) a practical belt clip
4) Glow Paint and Tritium !


----------



## Solstice (May 4, 2006)

Perfectionist said:


> As much as I love Fenix ..... I think I'm gonna go for the LRI Proton instead
> 
> Now if only Fenix could improve the L range to include :
> 1) a proper "momentary on" clicky
> ...




I agree with your suggested improvements to the Fenix series, but I find it interesting that you say you are going for the Proton when it exhibits none of them other than the belt clip.

That said, I just saw the Proton page and it certainly does have some very sophisticated features (eg. low batt indication that shuts off when the brightness is lowered to a level that can be maintained). I just cant do closeup work/reading under PWM dimmed 5mm Nichia light after being "spoiled" by the light from an underdriven Luxeon. 

I think I'll wait and see about the Jet-I 2 stage switch, but if the end result doesn't live up to my needs, I'll definately be coming back for an L1T.


----------



## Bandgap (May 4, 2006)

Yello said: - maybe a little too bright on low, but ...

I agree. The dimmest setting on many lights is still too bright for reading in a tent without making the tent show up for miles. 

Steve


----------



## Perfectionist (May 4, 2006)

True .... I would love to see a Proton with Tritium 

But it does have Momentary On function through its UI which is far better than a typical bottom clicky ..... and its "hyped" lumen output would put almost all other AA lights in the dark  ..... so maybe I can live without a K2 

The main thing here is value for money ..... I'm hoping that there will be plenty of discount retailers out there who would sell the Proton for way below the recommended price (just like they do with all the other LRI products) ..... in which case I would rather spend $45-50 bucks on a Proton than on another Fenix .....


----------



## yazkaz (May 4, 2006)

I've resisted the LxP series and that has certainly paid off. But I'm not sure if I can do the same on this one. Given that LEDs are getting better and more efficient who knows if there would any LxU series (for U-bin I presume) in the future...

Anyway, I don't know what to do. Should I just take the plunge or wait indefinitely for any better stuff to come??


----------



## srvctec (May 4, 2006)

yazkaz said:


> I've resisted the LxP series and that has certainly paid off. But I'm not sure if I can do the same on this one. Given that LEDs are getting better and more efficient who knows if there would any LxU series (for U-bin I presume) in the future...
> 
> Anyway, I don't know what to do. Should I just take the plunge or wait indefinitely for any better stuff to come??



Take the plunge! These things are kinda like computers and digital cameras- there will *always* be a better one coming out in the near future no matter what you do. So you can wait forever for that "perfect" one, or get a really good one now and enjoy it until you feel the need to upgrade.


----------



## Long John (May 4, 2006)

I agree with srvctec. He has found the better words.

Live your life now and try to be happy every day.

I'm sure, not all the news (lights and more)in the future will be better than the ones we have today.

Best regards

____
Tom


----------



## geepondy (May 4, 2006)

What I really like about these type of lights is that I actually can afford to buy one a few times a year without feeling guilty that I wasted money I really shouldn't have on something I really didn't need. If you find you they aren't quite what you thought they would be, they make neat Christmas gifts. So I'm going to take the plung and preorder a L2T.


----------



## Dawg (May 4, 2006)

IMHO, much ado about nothing. I don't understand all the fanfare for Fenix. I have an LOP and an L1P. They are a Sickly greenish tint and they look horridly yellow because of it. My LOP is a nice clean white, but the L1P :thumbsdow . I have seen and played with a L1 and another friends L1P and all three have the same tint. Ghastly!


----------



## TORCH_BOY (May 5, 2006)

I like the hi-low power option, 
finally took the plunge and ordered the L2T


----------



## Ty_Bower (May 5, 2006)

Marcus Aurelius said:


> Does anyone have a pointer to this discussion? I would definitely like to know more. If the LuxIII is no different than the LuxI...


Marcus is asking for info regarding a thread where some have suggested the R bin Lux I and the T bin Lux III are identical parts, just with different ratings. I haven't seen this discussion, but it is certainly very plausible and I would be interested to read more about it. I have read about one person's testing of various emitters. It seems that R bin Lux I parts can perform nearly as well as a U bin Lux III in terms of efficiency.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=115323
Look near the bottom of post #1 for the "Summary" chart. Although there are no three watt T bin parts in his test, there is a U bin (which should be even better than a T bin). The "Light-Box-Units per Power" ratio for the one watt R is nearly as good as the three watt U.

This leads me to believe that a R may be brighter than a T, provided they are both driven with the same amount of power. You can drive the T with three watts and it will be brighter (than the R at one watt), but at the expense of battery life. I suppose you could also drive the R at three watts (wquiles drives his at two and a half watts in his test) but you are exceeding its maximum rating.

All that said, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out why Fenix is using a T bin in their latest lights. People "know" that a T is bright, and three watts is more than 1 watt. Ergo, the 3 watt light has to be better than a 1 watt, right?


----------



## Marcus Aurelius (May 5, 2006)

Ty_Bower said:


> Marcus is asking for info regarding a thread where some have suggested the R bin Lux I and the T bin Lux III are identical parts, just with different ratings. I haven't seen this discussion, but it is certainly very plausible and I would be interested to read more about it. I have read about one person's testing of various emitters. It seems that R bin Lux I parts can perform nearly as well as a U bin Lux III in terms of efficiency.
> 
> http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=115323
> Look near the bottom of post #1 for the "Summary" chart. Although there are no three watt T bin parts in his test, there is a U bin (which should be even better than a T bin). The "Light-Box-Units per Power" ratio for the one watt R is nearly as good as the three watt U.
> ...



Thanks Ty:rock: This is very helpful. Initially I thought that I would jump on the L1T but now I think I will wait to read the reviews and to see whether it is any brighter and if so, by how much.


----------



## perfectname (May 5, 2006)

For me, li-ion is the big question. If it runs well on 14500s I will be tempted to get it.


----------



## InfidelCastro (May 6, 2006)

srvctec said:


> Take the plunge! These things are kinda like computers and digital cameras- there will *always* be a better one coming out in the near future no matter what you do. So you can wait forever for that "perfect" one, or get a really good one now and enjoy it until you feel the need to upgrade.




Not if it doesn't yet have all the features that you want, that have been possible since the lights inception. I've held off buying a Fenix and I'm glad I did. Now there's the L2T, which looks promising, but still may lack a couple of features that it, imo, SHOULD have. So I'll probably continue to hold off until they include those features, or someone else does in a comparable light.


The biggest thing for me is the lack of momentary. I just KNOW I'll be going through tailcaps all the time, not to mention reverse clickies being personally annoying to me and that's just not acceptable.


----------



## REparsed (May 6, 2006)

InfidelCastro said:


> The biggest thing for me is the lack of momentary. I just KNOW I'll be going through tailcaps all the time, not to mention reverse clickies being personally annoying to me and that's just not acceptable.



Before buying my L2P I read the posts and reviews. I couldn't understand all the fuss over the reverse clicky. I figured being a n00b and never developing a preference either way I'd be happy with the reverse clicky, I was wrong. I want a positive clicky!

I haven't seen anything yet to say that the new L1T / L2T's won't have positive clickies but, you'd think if they were going to have +clickies it would be advetised.


----------



## Krahl (May 7, 2006)

I also have to say that I simply don`t like reverse clickies.


----------



## NewBie (May 7, 2006)

InfidelCastro said:


> Not if it doesn't yet have all the features that you want, that have been possible since the lights inception. I've held off buying a Fenix and I'm glad I did. Now there's the L2T, which looks promising, but still may lack a couple of features that it, imo, SHOULD have. So I'll probably continue to hold off until they include those features, or someone else does in a comparable light.
> 
> 
> The biggest thing for me is the lack of momentary. I just KNOW I'll be going through tailcaps all the time, not to mention reverse clickies being personally annoying to me and that's just not acceptable.




The Fenix LOP was shown to be 16 lumens vs. their 30 lumen rating in Gransee's integrating sphere testing at the world famous LSI lab (awesome choice of labs!).

So you might also want to consider this, but it does quite well already, verses other similar priced lights.

One can hope the L1T and L2T fare better if he will be testing them. Though, according to Fenix, the T versions have lower lumen ratings, for some odd reason.


----------



## Perfectionist (May 7, 2006)

Why did Fenix use Reverse Clickies in the first place ?? 

Are they a lot cheaper to make or something ??


----------



## Long John (May 7, 2006)

They are more sure during storage and carrying.

Best regards

____
Tom


----------



## carrot (May 7, 2006)

Reverse clickies are very simple to make (the design is the same as a pen clickie). Due to their simplicity, they are more reliable and cheaper. The design of a "tactical" clickie is non-trivial in design, costing more to manufacture.


----------



## onthebeam (May 7, 2006)

*75 lumens Fenix L1T / L2T with CR2 body?*

OK, here's the plan. . . Any holes in my logic?

I'm going to place the new L1T/L2T head on my Nekomane CR2 body, giving me two stages in a tiny 2.66 inch light with a clicky and tritium.

The Fenix website says this head can handle 4 volts for 75 lumens on high!!!--so I'm going to order one of AW's Protected RCR2 batteries that run at 3.6 volts. 

Any problems here? Hoping it's not too hot. I briefly tried an L1P head on the CR2 body once and found the intense, fast heat not worth tradeoff for the absolutely blazing brightness.

Lastly, which charger should I get, the Nano or the DSD? I'm leaning toward the Nano since AW says two RCR2s have to be charged at once in the other charger.


----------



## Blindasabat (May 8, 2006)

Your plan sounds like a good one. I use the L1P with the CR123 body. If the L1/2T get decent reviews (or Nekomane comes out with a body for the Jet-1 soon) I plan to do the same thing for a two stage clicky CR123 or CR2. 

But I think it will still get very hot very fast putting out 50-60 lumens (kinda doubt 75 lumens) in a small package. Using low will of course help a lot.

I have a lot of one cell lights, so the Nano is very useful being able to charge one battery at a time. Plus, it is very compact.


----------



## savumaki (May 8, 2006)

Let me add some fuel to the flames while we discuss clicky switches, which has been said are cheaper to make.
For me they cost more in batteries!!
I have two L1P's that "apparently" go out after I finish using them and return to my pocket. HOWEVER, they click back on, unbeknown to me and shine away untill the battery dies or someone notices a bright spot in my pocket
This gets expensive with lithium bats.
I bring this up since for the forth time I find a 'dead' Fenix in my pocket last night.

Admin; move if this isn't the place for this. tks

Karl


----------



## Paul6ppc (May 8, 2006)

I was thinking along the same lines,using a 14500 lion to power a L1T,it seems that using lion will run it in Direct drive to brighter level,but the 2 stage is expected to not work on lion, at least thats what i understood . It woud be nice if I was wrong. Any more talk of when these will get out? I thought may 5th or 10th,any updates?????


----------



## Blindasabat (May 8, 2006)

I've read a lot of speculation that the two stage would not work with Li-Ion and I don't see why this would be the case. If the L1T and L2T use the same head, and the voltage input range should be ~4V, then the two stage switch should be built to work with that. The only way it would not would be if it is a PWM in a processor that would be bypassed and run direct drive.

<edited for stupidity>


----------



## onthebeam (May 8, 2006)

The Fenix website seems to imply that it will work since the light is advertised as two stage and they do say rechargeable batts up to 4 volts will work, but at the customer's own risk. . . I don't think they'd advertise compatibility if it didn't work.


----------



## NeoteriX (May 8, 2006)

*Re: 75 lumens Fenix L1T / L2T with CR2 body?*



onthebeam said:


> OK, here's the plan. . . Any holes in my logic?
> 
> I'm going to place the new L1T/L2T head on my Nekomane CR2 body, giving me two stages in a tiny 2.66 inch light with a clicky and tritium.
> 
> ...


 We don't know if the body is designed differently to accomodate the 2 level bezel or not. there's a possibility the cr2 addons will not be compatible.


----------



## Spotpuff (May 9, 2006)

*Re: 75 lumens Fenix L1T / L2T with CR2 body?*

Are these lights regulated? They both use the same head and the L2P was so hopefully they are...

Any word on reviews yet?


----------



## chanamasala (May 9, 2006)

I'm itching to get mine:

I hope the detent for Hi/Low is firm and stable. And the CR123 tubes fit. If anyone from the Fenix company is reading this maybe you can definatively answer some questions for us:

1. Are the heads the same on the L1T and L2T?
2. Do the L1P L2P bodies fit on the T series heads.
3. Does the Hi/Lo work at 3.7v? What about 3v?


----------



## beakman (May 10, 2006)

chanamasala said:


> 2. Do the L1P L2P bodies fit on the T series heads.



If you look at this thread in the Dealers Forum, you'll see that eliteled tried to use the L1T/L2T head on the L1P and L2P bodies, and it didn't work properly. 

beakman


----------



## LowBat (May 10, 2006)

The L1T sounds tempting with the high/low bezel switch. What I don't like, if I'm reading it correctly, is the loss in brightness for the gain in runtime. That's what the low setting is supposed to be for, not more economy in the high setting. Yes I know you can pump it up with a 3.7 volt lithium, but that brings up another concern as mentioned here from Tad Gear’s webpage.

_Note: The input voltage of Fenix L1T is 0.9V～4.0V. Therefore 3.7V protected rechargeable Li-ion battery can be used for Fenix L1T and the brightness can reach to 75 lumens. However Fenix does not recommend this a-typical battery, and does not assume any responsibility for the function of the light using this type of battery._

I think I'll wait for a comparison review before making a decision.


----------



## Mr_Light (May 10, 2006)

At some point it would be great to have a sort of compatablity matrix for what heads, bodies, tails, work with what sorts of batteries (protected etc..). It's getting kind of complicated to keep track of......


----------



## FlashMike (May 11, 2006)

4sevens said:


> I have them on pre-order on my website now...
> http://fenix-store.com/index.php?cPath=22
> 
> I'm told they're shipping out May 5th



Hey 4Sevens, do you have a status on the lights for your store? I placed a pre-order after your original post on 4/30. I see that other sellers have now been shipping these for a few days. Any ETA for your L1T's?


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic (May 11, 2006)

Paul6ppc said:


> The Orb raw goes from high to low by twisting,and I think the firefly III does.
> 
> I was refering to the aftermarket short bodies bynekomane , I hope the threads are the same.



Yes, but you don't activate them with a clickie. The Raw and the FFIII are twisties only.


----------



## 4sevens (May 11, 2006)

FlashMike said:


> Hey 4Sevens, do you have a status on the lights for your store? I placed a pre-order after your original post on 4/30. I see that other sellers have now been shipping these for a few days. Any ETA for your L1T's?



They should be here any day now... They are stuck in customs at
the moment.


----------



## beakman (May 11, 2006)

4sevens,

When you get them in, could you try the L1T/L2T head on the CR2 and CR123 bodies, to confirm whether they will work properly or not?

beakman


----------



## 4sevens (May 11, 2006)

beakman said:


> 4sevens,
> 
> When you get them in, could you try the L1T/L2T head on the CR2 and CR123 bodies, to confirm whether they will work properly or not?
> 
> beakman



I sure will


----------



## Raven (May 11, 2006)

Mags said:


> They dont look too tactical to me. The specs dont impress me that much either. I wish the L2T would look better, perhaps have a tactical rubber grip or something. Like the L6 or C3.



Why don't you just admit you work at Surefire, and get it over with )

Unless, the reviews are super negative, these lights are going to own everything else available.

Make no mistake about it. Fenix is a direct and serious threat to Surefire, and eventually even Maglite.

These lights are simply too good and too cheap not to eventually get deep market penetration, and that's going to happen sooner rather than later.


----------



## yellow (May 11, 2006)

I´m with Raven: *they just lack the money to do the needed worldwide marketing...*

buy now these lights are THE BOMB!!

They feature everything a LED flashlight should offer to penetrate the market.
all the negative points (possible not totally perfect regulation, reverse clickie) will Joe Average not even understand. He might be concerned about "the short runtime" and "the price" (not understanding how good it is).
I for myself am thinking of stopping my 2AA modding because of these lights (OK, there still is too much current on low and ...  )

almost perfect


----------



## [email protected] Messenger (May 11, 2006)

Raven said:


> Why don't you just admit you work at Surefire, and get it over with )
> 
> Unless, the reviews are super negative, these lights are going to own everything else available.
> 
> ...


 
that's unless jetbeam gets there first :lolsign: .


----------



## UnknownVT (May 11, 2006)

*beakman* wrote: _"4sevens,_
_When you get them in, could you try the L1T/L2T head on the CR2 and CR123 bodies, to confirm whether they will work properly or not?"_


I just posted this in this other thread 
Fenix L1T and L2T (shorter body fit) 
- but it should be relevant here -

Here's my understanding - the "P" series bodies will physically fit the "T" series - but do not work properly - either they give only the "Hi" setting (and not the "Lo") or may not work at all.

My guess - which was confirmed - was that the threads at the head end of the "T" series are bare (conducting) metal - whereas the "P" series threads are anodized (NON-conducting). 

The speculation was the two stage switch works by having the "Lo" stage contact only through the conducting threads, and the "Hi" by contacting the "pill" at the body tube end.....

Please see this thread for more details -

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=117280

You'll have to check if the accessory bodies' threads are bare or anodized to whether they'll work properly. Both 4sevens or MillerMods would know.


----------



## beakman (May 11, 2006)

UnknownVT said:


> *beakman* wrote: _"4sevens,_
> _When you get them in, could you try the L1T/L2T head on the CR2 and CR123 bodies, to confirm whether they will work properly or not?"_
> 
> 
> ...




Ummm, yes, I know about that thread, as I'm the one that asked eliteled to test the L1T/L2T head on the L1P and L2P bodies in the first place (see post #9 in the thread). And that's the reason I asked 4sevens to test the L1T/L2T head on the CR2 and CR123 bodies when he got them, as he is the best person to know if the threads are anodized and if the head will work properly.

beakman


----------



## freeman4ever (May 11, 2006)

beakman said:


> ...if the threads are anodized...


Yes, the "threads" are anodized, however, the top and bottom "rims" are not. This is the case on the CR2 and CR123 bodies that I have.

YMMV.


----------



## FlashMike (May 17, 2006)

4sevens said:


> They (L1T / L2T) should be here any day now... They are stuck in customs at the moment.


It's been a week - any status? Your web site still says the 10th.


----------



## 4sevens (May 17, 2006)

FlashMike said:


> It's been a week - any status? Your web site still says the 10th.



Mike,

Thanks for your patience. May 10th was the target date.
Good news, the xxT's was release from customs and should show up tommorrow
at which i will start shipping immediately. Once yours ships, you will get
an automated email.


----------



## Paul6ppc (May 18, 2006)

YEAH!!! Im still looking forward to this light! 10 + hours of runtime on low on nimh,thats pretty impressive.


----------



## jwl (May 19, 2006)

4sevens - it's now the day after tomorrow. Have you received the L1T's / L2T's yet?  J/K


----------



## 4sevens (May 19, 2006)

jwl said:


> 4sevens - it's now the day after tomorrow. Have you received the L1T's / L2T's yet?  J/K



Oh yeah it's here! Along with the economy V1's.
Unfortunately I got ripped off again. Everytime there is a delay in customs,
items go missing. this time it's a few L1T's and L2T's 
I know they have to open up the packages and inspect, but I guess some
just don't put it back.   

Typical procedure is send back the entire package back for insurance
reasons. But there are so many outstanding orders I couldn't do that.
Don't worry, there is enough for everyone, they only took a couple.

I intend to have everything in the mail bright and early Monday.
So please don't email me about the status because I will reply as
usual but this takes my time away from shipping. Everyone should
have an email confirmation when you package ships. If you don't
please check your spam folder before emailing me. Your understanding
is greatly appreciated. Now, time to get crack'in!

Oh by the way direct links these new items are here:
L1T http://fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=70
L2T http://fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=72
Civictor V1 http://fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=76


----------



## cheapo (May 19, 2006)

that would be cool if the heads worked on 123s.

-David


----------



## PocketBeam (May 19, 2006)

Wow, just found this thread today, and just put my order in for one L1T. So how do unregulated Li-ions do in this, as I ordered so AA sized from 4sevens some one to two years ago. (remember the blue ones?)

Keith


----------



## 4sevens (May 19, 2006)

PocketBeam said:


> Wow, just found this thread today, and just put my order in for one L1T. So how do unregulated Li-ions do in this, as I ordered so AA sized from 4sevens some one to two years ago. (remember the blue ones?)
> 
> Keith



All I have to say is, if you run them down past 2.6v you'll kill the unprotected
li-ions. And DD l1t is gonna get hot very fast  Use protection as you always
should.


----------



## onthebeam (May 19, 2006)

beakman said:


> 4sevens,
> 
> When you get them in, could you try the L1T/L2T head on the CR2 and CR123 bodies, to confirm whether they will work properly or not?



Can't wait!!


----------



## jwl (May 20, 2006)

4sevens - glad you finally got them from customs. I hope there is some way you can file a complaint of some sort (aside from sending it all back to them), things 'not-getting-put-back' is so wrong in so many ways  . People that do things like that don't deserve the jobs they have.

Thanks for all you patience with us as I am sure it gets tiring getting asked "Are they here yet" over and over and over again.

:thanks:


----------



## 4sevens (May 20, 2006)

jwl said:


> 4sevens - glad you finally got them from customs. I hope there is some way you can file a complaint of some sort (aside from sending it all back to them), things 'not-getting-put-back' is so wrong in so many ways  . People that do things like that don't deserve the jobs they have.
> 
> :thanks:



I complain everything and there is not use. Maybe I'm not using the right
channels to complain. The shippers are powerless because it's the customs
agents working in their office that wield all the power. I've tried several
carriers too and almost everytime, something is missing. The worse was
I had 10 L0P's go missing. That was a huge loss for me. Fenix tried
to work with me and help compensate me a little but I pretty much had to
eat the loss. 


jwl said:


> Thanks for all you patience with us as I am sure it gets tiring getting asked "Are they here yet" over and over and over again.


You wouldn't believe how many emails I've had to respond to. I spend
just as much time packing and shipping as replying to "are they here
yet emails" because it requires me to look up the order (by order
number or by name or email) access what is back-ordered, write a curtious
explanation, and sometimes even process refunds - some were even really
angry at me for not having it.

All of which I totally understand and cannot blame anyone. As a fellow
CPFer I too would be just as anxious.


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## 4sevens (May 22, 2006)

I'm happy to announce that all l1t and l2t back orders have been packed
and ready to go out... That was a lot of work!  I'm glad I'm all caught up
with the xxT series. I still have plenty more


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## PocketBeam (May 26, 2006)

I am surprised I am the first...

I got my Fenix L1T last night. Thanks 4sevens, great service as always.

Please let me know if a review is not appropiate here and I will move it.

I have my orginal L1P which I also got from 4sevens. First of all I should say I love my L1P. It is very small for a AA flashlight, the beam is a nice pure white (I think I got lucky). It is very bright, in fact I still have a hard time believing or remembering it is a 1 watt led. The beam is great, and no donut holes, unless I hold it two inches away. And waterproof. It is a quality light and the price was reasonable, especially compared to simular mods out there.

OK, now for the L1T. The L1T is very simular to the L1P. In fact if not side by side the only way to tell is look at the writting on it, look for the L1T or L1P. But side by side you will see the L1T is a blacker black. Nice. The fit and finish has the same quality feel about it. In fact the reflector seems a little smoother when looking directly into it, although I didn't notice a beam difference. And yes that means it still has a great beam, IMHO. The button seems to be a little bit easier to press, both good and bad I guess.

The L1T has two modes of brightness, cool. For high the head needs to be tight. If you loosen it a little then it drops to the lower mode. I would have liked a little bit more play, but so far no faults or problems. Compared to the L1P the L1T that I have (yours may vary?) the L1P is definatly brighter then the L1T on high. I compared without a meter and by turning one on, then off, then the otehr on, so not side by side. I guess this is because the head was made to handle one or the two batteries of the L2T. This was disapointing. But comparing the brighter L1P against the two brightness modes of the L1T, I can't really say one is better. After all the L1T is pretty bright and a very useful brightness. 

I am guessing I got lucky(?) with my L1P has it is very white. (Same as my VIP). But the L1T I just got is a blue. And it is noticable without doing a side by side, just by turning one on then off, then the other on you can see it. But I am sure others will have better luck.

But wait there is more... The L1T says it will handle Lithium Ion rechargables. Hm, I just ordered some 14500 protected cells. OK, I will cut to the chase. I put the charged 14500 in, and it didn't work. I took it out and put it in again and this time it worked. This time when turned high, BAM! That is bright. Much brighter then the L1P. Sweet. Also the beam is much whiter now. That is one cool light. OK, not so "cool" as I could feel the head starting to heat up. I don't know how it will hold up to the heat as I only did a two minute run and it was getting pretty warm.

Next I try low mode with the 14500, and the light goes off. Hm, so just high and off. OK, long story short. My 14500s are a bit longer then a regular AA battery and longer then my unprotected 14500s. It looks like the protected 14500's, that I have, barely fit. In fact the end cap threads may not seal and make contact. That seems to be why the battery doesn't always turn on the light. I have to screw it down tighter to make it work. Turn the head for low and you lose the contact.

So I tried unprotected 14500s that are standard AA length. They worked fine and i still got the super bright output. Bam!  I even get low now with the 14500. But it isn't protected so I don't want to use everyday or not use for very long as it could cause damage.

The L1T also comes with a belt or clip loop carry case and a lanard, which I didn't really play with last night.

OK, that is kind of first impressions. With the right 14500 this will be tough light to beat.

Now, can someone help me. Can someone recomend a true AA sized protected 14500 lithium rechargable cell, and good price? Also can someone recomend a good lithium charger that will handle AA, AAA, and 123 sizes, as mine blew a unprotected 14500 ten feet accross my kitchen and melted the vinyl floor. I don't want to use that one again, and of course the 14500 that it was charging is very much dead. Cremated it was.

Keith


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## Paul6ppc (May 26, 2006)

Best review Ive seen so far,im hoping mine is delivered today!Il try mine out.

How low is it with the 14500?


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## PocketBeam (May 26, 2006)

Well, I just played with it last night. As I recall it seemed about as bright on the low on the 14500 as the L1P with a new charged NiMh battery. But I didn't have much time to test, as I mention I had one battery blow up on me... So I don't even know if it gets hot on low with the 14500, and I need to do more comparisons. I was ready last night as the unprotected 14500 wasn't charged, and i didn't know I would need it until later in the night.


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## jwl (May 26, 2006)

I thought I saw a thread with beamshots somewhere but now I can't find it....maybe I stayed up too late :shrug: ...can anybody point me to this mystery thread?????Thanks guys.....


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