# Thinking of a knife, but which one?



## DownUnderLite (Jul 21, 2006)

Speaking of knives, I am in the market for a EDC folder.
I have no knowledge of knives!!!
My requirements are:

Must be a manual knife(no assistance via gravity or spring)
Requirement of Australian Law​must not exceed 5" when closed
Will fit into pocket​Require a blade lock( while opened)
Don't want it folding while in use​Oh, bye the way, does anyone know of any reputable sites that do international orders?(yes, here in Australia, decent knife prices are like flashlights...Expensive!!!)


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## KAM (Jul 21, 2006)

You can't go wrong with Spyderco or Benchmade, check out thier websites
www.benchmade.com
www.spyderco.com

http://newgraham.com is a reputable site that do international orders


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## DownUnderLite (Jul 21, 2006)

Thanks!!

Looks like I've got another learning curve:goodjob:


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## Sigman (Jul 21, 2006)

Benchmade Mini-Griptilian!! I carry one "sometimes" - most of the time I have a Gerber LST on me.


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## Sharpdogs (Jul 21, 2006)

Spyderco and Benchmade are probably your best choices. For a Spyderco look at the Endura or Delica models. For Benchmade look at the Griptialian and mini Griptillian.


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## cdf (Jul 21, 2006)

You cant go wrong with a Spyderco Delica 4 or Endura 4 . Also order a Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker . I'm assuming that as well as being new to knives , you are also new to sharpening .

The Benchmade 707 and 710,s are very good allarounders . If you like to play ruff , go with the Benchmade 500 , or 525 ( smaller but just as tuff ) .

Without knowing more about your intended use , it's hard to get more specific .

Chris


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## Blazer (Jul 21, 2006)

Also have a look at CRKT.

www.crkt.com

I've got the M16-12LE and it seems to meet all your requirements, but I'm sure there are many others.


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## cue003 (Jul 21, 2006)

PM sent.

Curtis


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## DownUnderLite (Jul 21, 2006)

Ideally I want something with about 4-4.5" of blade with drop point.Need point to act as scalpel.

Mainly going to bu used to cut strapping, open parcels and general use/abuse


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## flashlight (Jul 21, 2006)

Benchmite II :thumbsup:

Try PVKnife.com (though they may not be very responsive by email).


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## flashlight (Jul 21, 2006)

DownUnderLite said:


> Ideally I want something with *about 4-4.5" of blade* with drop point.Need point to act as scalpel.
> 
> Mainly going to bu used to cut strapping, open parcels and general use/abuse



Erm, a bit difficult when 'must not exceed 5" when closed'. :thinking:


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## powernoodle (Jul 21, 2006)

flashlight said:


> Erm, a bit difficult when 'must not exceed 5" when closed'. :thinking:



You can get close. The Benchmade 710 has a 3.9" blade, and is 4.9" closed. Link.

For a first knife, though, I'd go with a Spyderco Endura 4 at less than half the price of the 710.

FWIW, here is a nice review of a Delica. 

cheers


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## DownUnderLite (Jul 21, 2006)

Have never worried about cost, only quality,function


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## flashlight (Jul 21, 2006)

powernoodle said:


> You can get close. The Benchmade 710 has a 3.9" blade, and is 4.9" closed. Link.
> 
> For a first knife, though, I'd go with a Spyderco Endura 4 at less than half the price of the 710.
> 
> ...



Oh yeah, you're right.  I think there might be few more that fit that requirement possibly.


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## ouchmyfinger (Jul 21, 2006)

DownUnderLite said:


> Ideally I want something with about 4-4.5" of blade with drop point.Need point to act as scalpel.
> 
> Mainly going to bu used to cut strapping, open parcels and general use/abuse



As already mentioned, thats pretty hard when the handle has to be < 5". You did not put a price range no this, so check out Darrel Ralph's Mad Maxx series - they have some of the best open / closed length ratio's around due to their design. The Madd Maxx 4 is probably what you'd want.

www.darrelralph.com


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## cdf (Jul 21, 2006)

Benchmade 710 , or in the alternate Spyderco Endura . Nuff said .

Chris


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## vandrecken (Jul 21, 2006)

Spyderco ergonomics are in a class of their own - the hole's a brilliant concept for one hand opening. Benchmade are good too - their axis lock is stong and easy to use.

Good knives like these cut way above their weight. Over the last few years I've EDC'd the little spyderco dragonfly and more recently the slightly larger but still compact UK Penknife. It's impressive how well these work for EDC if your needs stop short of daily woodcarving.

Enjoy - if you catch the knife bug it'll cost you more than lights 

Incidentally - newgraham are very good for international orders.


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## chmsam (Jul 22, 2006)

I might suggest a straight knife for a blade of that length. Folders with a blade over 3.5" are really tempting to use with a bit more force than they should probably take. Also fine tip control (scalpel-like) is harder with a bigger knife. Just my 2 cents worth.

Having said that, like others have said, Benchmades are a good knife in a reasonable price range. You can spend quite a bit more and still not get a better knife. Other brands to look at for knives you can beat on: Spyderco, CRKT, & Cold Steel.


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## DownUnderLite (Jul 22, 2006)

Thanks for all the imput.

You have given me a good starting point to research.
Just hope that this is not as addictive as flashlights!!
(But starting to look like it is. So many knives.....so little cash)


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## carrot (Jul 22, 2006)

I love my Benchmade Mini-Griptilian 556. It has an MSRP of $90 or so but can routinely be found for about $65USD, so maybe you can buy it from a US-based site that will ship overseas.


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## Steve Andrews (Jul 22, 2006)

I recommend the Benchmade RSK MkI from Aeromedix.com, and a Spyderco Sharpmaker to maintain it at scalpel-sharp.

One up from the bottom in this pic:





The standard Benchmade 551 is excellent too and can be bought from NewGraham.com. They offer very resonable Intl Shipping costs.


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## BladeZealot (Jul 22, 2006)

One of the best production folders out there. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/TOM-MAYO-TNT-S3...ryZ63792QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Here's another. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Benchmade-630-S...ryZ73531QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## sniper (Jul 22, 2006)

Sigman said:


> Benchmade Mini-Griptilian!!


What he said! Not as expensive as some, and NICE! I wish I hadn't sold mine.


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## DownUnderLite (Jul 22, 2006)

Thanks for everyone's input.I've settled on the Benchmade 553 Griptilian Tanto.
Should fulfill my needs. But if not, It will give me an excuse to buy another! :laughing: 

Yep, looks like another addiction coming up!!

What do you guy's/Gals think of my choice for a first knife?
I've been using a Leatherman multitool for the last ten years, and the knife blade is getting very loose with no locking mechanism for the blade. Just itching to bite me, it is

Ordered one from www.newgraham.com


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## afultz075 (Jul 25, 2006)

How about a Case knife? I'm particularly fond of the Russlock blades for carrying for their ease of opening one-handed. Case knives have a nice classic style to them if that's your thing.


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## GregWormald (Jul 26, 2006)

A large Sebenza should suit a man who wants the best. I second the vote for NewGraham, I've ordered from them just last week. If you want scalpel-like control I think a 3 inch or so blade is a better bet. 
Greg
BTW there are two good knife forums: <Bladeforums.com> and <Knifeforums.com>.


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## OldGreyGuy (Jul 26, 2006)

GregWormald said:


> I second the vote for NewGraham, I've ordered from them just last week.


How did you find their shipping prices and payment options?

Were you able to work out how to place an international order through Western Union?


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## Pokerstud (Jul 31, 2006)

SOG Twitch XL


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## guntotin_fool (Aug 3, 2006)

Try the AL Mar lines.as well, the Eagle Talon is a great knife. about 75 bucks. or the Sere or mini Sere. 

The mini Grip and the Grip from Cabelas have the D2 premium blades for very little more money. WAY up from the standard 420C 

MOD makes some very very nice knifes in the 175 USD range. some are Auto's Do not know what your regs are. 

The Spyderco mannix with the G10 scales and a s30V blade that is a 1/16 over 5 inches, if the shape looks good to you, you could easily shorten it a 16 th by a little shaping on a belt sander. about 110 USD

For less money if you are on the coast or around salt water a lot is the H1 steel bladed Spyederco Salt pacific series. This may very well be the least reactive steel available that has knife blade abilities. My dad left one in his little bay skiff last summer that ended up swamped for 2 months full of sea water, by the time My dad got back down there, it was laying in a tool box half full of brine, it was the only thing that was not damaged by the water or environment on the whole boat.


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## Steve Andrews (Aug 3, 2006)

guntotin_fool said:


> The mini Grip and the Grip from Cabelas have the D2 premium blades for very little more money. WAY up from the standard 420C



The Griptilians used to use 440C steel not "420C". 
440C is an excellent steel and D2 isn't WAY UP from it, just different.
D2 offers better edge retention but less corrosion resistance.

Standard Griptilians now use 154CM, an "enhanced 440C".


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## guntotin_fool (Aug 3, 2006)

D2 will rust if you soak in brine. But that is about the only way. 

My 2006 catalog for benchmade has the mini grip in 420C, a much more production friendly steel. 

440C was the first of the high carbon stain resistant steels. It was good and can be made in a good knife But it has a very narrow window of heat treat. a little hot and they can snap, a little cool, and they will never hold an edge. it has about 1% carbon, 16-18% chromium, 1% mang. .75% moly, 1% silicon, and traces of sulphur and phos. It was and is a relatively easy steel to machine and grind. One of the original "chome moly" steels 

!%$ cm is just iron, 1.05% carbon, 14% chrome and 4% moly, It has a great deal of attributes but machinability and workability are not included.  It usually takes special belts and cutters as the lack of mang, sulphur and Phos. make the steel "sticky", and hard to cut. 

D-2 is 1.5% carbon, about 11.5 % chrome, it can have a trace of Mang. in it and about .8% moly and Vanadium. it is the Vanadium that increase the edge retention in the D-2. D2 Is often used to make high speed steel cutters for milling machine, jointers and some other tough environment industrial cutters. We used to buy it in blanks to make shaper knives. It was about the only thing short of carbide that would hold up dimensionally to long runs of molding, and it had the added benefit we could grind it our selfs. It had a fairly wide range of heat treat success too. from dull red to just about Orange. in to quench, polish, then temper to a bright straw, then let it cool in warm embers. 


S30V is almost the same as D2 with only a tad more carbon and chrome, some say that higher chrome content makes it harder to get that perfect edge as the chrome likes to make the edges more serrated under a microscope, but it does add a toughness to the edge that can be amazing.


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## Steve Andrews (Aug 3, 2006)

guntotin_fool said:


> My 2006 catalog for benchmade has the mini grip in 420C, a much more production friendly steel.




???


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## guntotin_fool (Aug 4, 2006)

Steve, I was referring to the catalog I got from my local knife shop. They listed the Mini grip for 2006 as being 420c, which is a steel used by many of the big knife manufacturers as a starting line steel for several reasons. 
1) It blanks well. that is, when stamped out of a sheet, it shears at the point of impact with out letting stresses and distortions ruin the stamping. It also does not appreciably work harden so that it is....
2) Easy to machine, some steels are "sticky" meaning that they do not grind or cut well and tend to build up on cutting tools. Some are prone to work hardening, meaning that the very act of trying to reshape it puts enough heat into the steel to harden it against further work. 
3) Easy to grind or sand. again some steels work very well with the wheel or the belt and provide an easy substrate for that perfect mirror finish. some on the other hand are almost always seen as bead or sand blasted because when they are ground or sanded they gall or pull.
4) easy to heat treat. again some have small windows with very very precise temp ranges to get good outcomes. In knife work, it can all be ruined or saved by a good heat treat(er) At the old Buck works in SOCal, there were Old guys who did most of the heat treating by eye. These guys were real masters who were able to get the most out of a piece of steel and to do that consistently. But they often worked each blade one at a time and were able to get each the same as the last. Some more modern steels have the properties that there best performance comes over a wider range or window of heat threat. In other words, steel A might make a terrific knife blade but you have to harden it to a 25 degree window, lets say it likes a full cherry temp (about 1375 degrees) and it ends up after annealling at a 58C rockwell and holds a tough, sharp longlasting edge. However, If you heat it to 1400 or not let it get about 1350, it is just an ok edge. If you get it right it is very very right, If you get it too hot, it chips and if you get it not hot enough, the edge just folds. 
Steel B however, is a little bit less hard to work with, you can get it to its max hardness and toughness at anything between 1200 and 1450 degrees, any where from dull cherry to almost a bright red. It has a good edge and pretty good toughness and you can get it very very sharp with a diamond belt at that factory in just a few seconds. It will finish out at about 56C or so and will work for most peoples needs. But no matter what you do, it will not be as good as a properly done blade of steel A. However, the odds of getting a bad heat treat on steel B are about 1/10 the odds of getting a bad heat treat of steel A. For a production knife maker, steel B makes much more sense, but for a serious user, steel A is to be craved. 



http://www.keytosteel.com/default.aspx?ID=Articles
http://www.keytosteel.com/default.aspx?ID=CheckArticle&NM=159
http://www.engnath.com/public/harden.htm


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## Steve Andrews (Aug 4, 2006)

guntotin_fool said:


> Steve, I was referring to the catalog I got from my local knife shop. They listed the Mini grip for 2006 as being 420c, which is a steel used by many of the big knife manufacturers as a starting line steel for several reasons.



Strange, the catalogue you have is incorrect. The standard Griptilians are now made in 154CM steel. 
Benchmade 556 

Benchmade blades 
"154CM- An American made premium grade stainless steel originally developed for turbine blades in jet engines. The predecessor to ATS-34, which has now seen a strong resurgence in the knife market. Good corrosion resistance with excellent toughness and edge quality."

Prior to that the Griptilians were made in 440C.
Benchmade blades 
"440C- A high-chromium stainless steel with an excellent balance of good hardness and excellent corrosion resistance. 440C takes a nice edge and comes back fairly easy as well. An excellent value priced steel for its performance."

As far as I know Benchmade have never used 420C.


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## DownUnderLite (Aug 9, 2006)

I ended up getting the griptilian 553 black with tanto blade.Very nice knife and the blade is indeed 154CM.
I also have a Cold Steel Ultimate Hunter.
The CS and Benchmade have near identical length handles and blades, but the Benchmade's profile is a lot narrower. Thus it feels a lot smaller.

Both great knives (I think. But then again maybe I'm biased)


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## chamenos (Aug 9, 2006)

Steve Andrews is correct; As far as I know, the Benchmade Griptilian knives have never been made in 420C steel. It used to be 440C, and was changed in 2006 to 154CM. The liners are made of 420J according to the Benchmade website, so that's what the catalog that guntotin_fool mentioned might have been referring to.


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## PolishSumgai (Aug 11, 2006)

#1 Spyderco Endura SS4...


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