# Any Info on Grizzly G0602 10"x22" Lathe



## frisco

On a whim last night, I bought this Lathe cause I'm building a Custom Motorcycle and need to turn some small parts out. Mostly Aluminum and a few steel. 

I have a full size Bridgeport style Mill with Mitotoyo DRO and was thinking of getting the "G4003G Gunsmith's Bench Top Lathe with Stand ". The one Mac just acquired recently. I just couldn't pull the trigger when it came down to it. Not really for cost but, more for the size, weight and learning curve. I need to be making parts in a couple of weeks.

I have been looking at the some of the other 110volt machines, 7x12's, 9x20's, Lathemaster 8x14, Smithy and thought this one whould be better for the $1k price tag.
It has a 1" spindle bore (which means bigger main bearing than a 3/4 spindle bore machine I think?) with a 5" chuck and weighs in at 500lbs.

I usually do a bit more research before a purchase...... But I got desperate and excited at this new model...... When the Grizzly lady told me they were "in stock again" and had only 10 units in inventory. I had my credit card out faster than you can say "What just happened"

So now I'm doing a little reverse research! I figure I can learn on this one, get though my bike project and get a real one later if I want.

Oh yah.... I may even try to make some one off flashlight bodies for myself!!

I know I'm gonna have to get some tooling, Quick change tool post and other little (pricey) trinkets.

Any info on this machine would be appreciated.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0602

frisco


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## gadget_lover

I would have thought that someone would have replied by now. 

That's a nice looking machine, and one that will do an awful lot of good work. The 18 inch travel will handle long lights without re-mounting the work.\

I'd like one like that. 

Daniel


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## Torque1st

That lathe will make a whole lot of parts for you and will last for many years. Congratulations.!  It is not an industrial type production machine by any means but I don't think that is what you were looking for. 

You can spend double the cost of the machine on tooling easily. See if you can find any surplus tooling dealers in your area. With a mill and lathe you can make a lot of tooling for your machines.

For more information on machines in general try the CNCzone:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/index.php?


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## scott.cr

If you need to be making precision parts in a couple weeks and you're not an experienced "lathist," I would have to suggest farming the work out. It could take at least that long to get to a point where you'll be satisfied with your work. (I'm only saying that knowing what fanatics bike owners are.) There's a lot more to it than just machining the part when you take surface finish into account, and each material has its own behavior on the lathe.

Come to think of it, it took me an entire day to figure out why tool bits are sharpened the way they are, and another entire day to be able to reproduce the edge angles on a bench grinder. After seeing that hand-grinding them with any accuracy was near impossible, I spent another week making a grinding fixture!!

I probably scrapped 30 lbs. of aluminum before making anything worthwhile on a lathe, and that doesn't include the mistakes that still happen from time to time!

BTW, $1k for the lathe, probably another $500 at least for tooling... tool bits, boring bars, threading bits (internal and external), grinding wheel, etc etc etc.

I'm in no way trying to discourage you from lathing... this is THE BEST tool in my shop. Very very versatile. Even the doors on my cupboards and the newels on my staircase at home are straighter and stronger due to my mini lathe, and that's no exaggeration.

Back to the task... Grizzly 10x22 lathe is a nice piece of gear. If you have the facilities to unload it from the truck, level it and mount it, this lathe is surprisingly accurate and sturdy. I don't know if the bed is hardened but I have a friend with this exact lathe and it has thousands of hours on it and looks like new.


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## Torque1st

If he has a full size mill and is proficient on it the lathe will be easy to come up to speed on. I am going the other way, I have a full size 20x60 lathe and just acquired a mini-mill.


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## frisco

Well.... Got my lathe all mounted and leveled. Havn't used it yet, But so far I'm very impressed! Very beefy for a table top 110volt model. The bench in the photo is 4 feet long.





Here is my Full size 10"x54" Mill with DRO





frisco


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## Rothrandir

That's a nice looking machine and a nice setup!

What I wouldn't give for that mill though...


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## Torque1st

Congrats! 

That is a lot bigger & better mill than I have. But mine will do the job for the small stuff I need to do.

Most machine tool manufacturers know that material cost is a very small portion of the cost of producing a machine. Making things "beefy" is usually not a real problem until it comes to shipping. I think shipping a container from the far east costs the same whether it is full of iron or ping pong balls. Even then shipping is usually not a big cost on a new machine. It is usually a big cost when buying a used machine tho. I picked up both of my used machines locally.


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## Data

Rothrandir said:


> That's a nice looking machine and a nice setup!
> 
> What I wouldn't give for that mill though...



It is a nice mill BUT, I am really hoping you will get a VMC. :santa:


EDIT: Oh yea, and BTW, I am first in line if you do.


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## scott.cr

That is one sweet setup... I'm glad you got it up and running, and so soon after posting!!


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## fludunlimited

Hi frisco

just ordered one of these myself this morning.
how do you like it so far.

thanks, Brian


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## LukeA

So, how does it perform?


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## 65535

I was thinking about getting that lathe actually, I will be interested to hear about this.


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## LukeA

65535 said:


> I was thinking about getting that lathe actually, I will be interested to hear about this.



I searched it on Practical Machinist. There was one thread. I'll save you the trouble of reading it. It said: "Yeah, that lathe should be pretty good for small work." (presumably like aluminum flashlights) Then they started ranting about somebody's poor-quality Jet lathe and China in general.

This is lookin like a nice upgrade from the rather useless wood lathe currently (not) in use at home.


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## 65535

I hope to hear more from the OP with some hands on experience with it, looks good for the small work I have been wanting to do for forever.


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## fludunlimited

picked up mine today
now i have to learn how to use it


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## frisco

I've been getting my feet wet with the G0602. So far I am pretty pleased with the results.
I spent some time getting things "straight" as well as the break in stuff.

I'm going nuts with the dials on the lathe. Going to look into a DRO system for it.

Bought some import tooling from http://www.cdcotools.com/
QCTP, bits and such. Still have a few more things to get.

Tonight I turned some 304 Stainless. I took passes up to .010 The finish is pretty good.

frisco

Picture: 1" 304 Stainless Cut with Import Tolling from CDCO
The cool thing about this lathe is the 1" spindle bore.


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## J!m

Not bad! 304 is not particularly pleasant to work with either... Keep it wet with oil and play with your in feed speeds to get a mirror finish. Tool angle may need to be adjusted as well- I can't tell well from your photo...

You may want to consider a few ideas as a 'new' lathe operator:


get a small cup full of cutting oil and an acid brush and keep the tool covered while machining. It is cheaper than adding a flood coolant system (plus less messy), and you have it handy all the time.
Do some research on coated tools. TiN is good fore some metals; however it is horrible for others (aluminum for example). For Al I like to use TiCN coated if I can get it. Uncoated tools are great for many general uses; however for the best finish off the machine, you may need to have several types of inserts.
Get an Aloris tool post. It is expensive, but you will save MANY hours changing tools and setting tool height. When you add a new tool, get another tool holder and set the height once. When you change tools, you just hit the lever, pull the old tool, drop the new one on, tighten the lever and go.
Don't cover your ways with WD-40. This is a common mistake. Use only way oil for your ways. Clean them well and oil them after every use and your lathe will last forever.
Cover the ways with a shop rag so the chips do not get into the cross slide and carriage ways. If you use paper rags, you just close them up and throw them away when you are done. This makes clean-up super fast and easy. This is nice when you have only one lathe, and changing materials often. Cloth rags get shaken out and re-used.
DON'T CUT WOOD on that lathe. Mixing wood, with metal filings and oil is a recipe for disaster. Fire is the least to expect; however dependent on what you are cutting, and errant spark could cause spontaneous combustion or small explosion. Don't risk it.
A cheap dial indicator mounted on the lathe will make cut depth much easier to figure out. A 'mighty-mag' base with a 0-1"X.001 indicator is cheap and will make your life easier. The in-feed resolution is usually quite course (like 1/10 inch per mark or so) and holding tolerance can be tricky- particularly on an ID bore job, where you can't see what you are doing. If it is on a mag base, it can also be used for the cross feed measurement. Until you prove to yourself the hash marks are reliable, assume they are not. The only lathe I have used that I trust is the Hardinge Super-Precision (my favorite lathe) which has .001 graduations on the cross-feed and it holds true. (I use a dial indicator for in feed on that too- actually they normally come from Hardinge with them).
Have fun! A lot of 'bad' parts will come off before you gain confidence. As long as you accept that, you will be fine.


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## Torque1st

Good advice above!^^^

Use Kerosene for a cutting fluid when cutting aluminum. it will keep the aluminum from building up on the tool and provide a better surface finish.


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## fludunlimited

Torque1st said:


> Good advice above!^^^
> 
> Use Kerosene for a cutting fluid when cutting aluminum. it will keep the aluminum from building up on the tool and provide a better surface finish.


 
how about flammability with kerosene?
and dose any one know where i could get
quick retract tool post. no sure if thats what its 
called.


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## frisco

fludunlimited said:


> how about flammability with kerosene?
> and dose any one know where i could get
> quick retract tool post. no sure if thats what its
> called.



I got a QCTP (quick change tool post) from http://www.cdcotools.com/

I'm very pleased with it and many other things I've received from cdco. I've also been buying tools from www.lathemaster.com

frisco


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## frisco

Jim-

Thanks for the tips! Well received!

frisco


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## Torque1st

I have never had a problem with kerosene as a cutting fluid for aluminum. There is no open flame when a part is machined and it is really hard to ignite. The entire shop where I worked used it for aluminum. For steel we used a water base cutting fluid. Water base fluids get real stinky if anyone working around them chews tobacco or sunflower seeds tho. We had regular cutting oil on a few machines also.


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## J!m

frisco said:


> Jim-
> 
> Thanks for the tips! Well received!
> 
> frisco


 
Glad I could help!

One note on Kerosene lubricant:

The new 'low sulphur' fuels may become less and less effective as a cuting lubricant. The sulphur is a big part of the lubricant, and a similar problem for my Diesel truck- I use addatives to replace the lost sulphur so my injector pump doesn't melt-down.

The additive I use is called "Howie's" (available at truck stops across the country) and I bet it alone would be an excellent cutting/tapping fluid (although I have not tried it yet myself) for aluminum...

(PS if you try it, let us know how it works!):wave:


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## Torque1st

I would have to cut some aluminum again with Kerosene to see if anything had changed much over the years.

Speaking of additives and engines, -even the new oils have changed. If you have an engine with a flat tappet cam the new oils do not have enough zinc and other anti-wear additives in them to prevent excessive tappet and cam lobe wear. The oil to use nowadays is diesel engine oil for a flat tappet cam engine. After rebuilding one of those engines use diesel engine oil and a cam break-in additive from the cam manufacturer for the first few oil changes. Then continue to use the diesel engine oil.


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## fludunlimited

frisco said:


> I got a QCTP (quick change tool post) from http://www.cdcotools.com/
> 
> I'm very pleased with it and many other things I've received from cdco. I've also been buying tools from www.lathemaster.com
> 
> frisco


 
thanks 

the tool post im talking about might not exsist.
do thay make somthing for cuting threads
that will pull the bit away from the surface
and put it back without turning the feed.
that way you can back up, put the bit back and 
dial in a little more.


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## cmacclel

fludunlimited said:


> thanks
> 
> the tool post im talking about might not exsist.
> do thay make somthing for cuting threads
> that will pull the bit away from the surface
> and put it back without turning the feed.
> that way you can back up, put the bit back and
> dial in a little more.



Hardinge Lathes are setup like that.

Mac


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## Torque1st

I always just backed out a turn on the cross slide and then advanced it back to zero (or a sharpie pen mark) on the dial. Then dialed in more on the compound set at 29°. You can use a dial indicator on the cross slide to make your re-positioning certain. All depth of thread cut adjustment is made with the compound set at 29°. This does make the amount advanced on the compund different from the depth of cut. The actual depth of cut is less:







Using a 29°angle on the compound for threading produces an excellent surface finish and avoids tool breakdown problems that can occur at the worst time (like the final pass).

Note- For most threading a single turn on the cross slide is adequate. For very course pitch threads two turns may be required. Most compounds run .100"/turn or .125"/turn or their metric equivalents. Your lathe and the number of turns required to clear the thread may vary.


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## J!m

The Hardinge does have this feature; however all the tool room guys here just turn it back by hand, and re-set for each pass.

Lately they have been using threading inserts to cut threads. Even on stainless, they hold up fine. The new insert technology seems to prevent the dreaded tool break down on the last pass (and that is the only time a tool would fail of course!).

The nice thing about the modern inserts is that they repeat within a thousandth, so if you did manage to chip one, you can back out, swap it, and get on with your life. You can re-zero on the next part without blowing your tolerance, or, in the case of the Hardinge, re-zero before continuing due to their better threading drive system...


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## Torque1st

I have always used insert tooling for threading (after school) and never had a problem using the 29° compound system. But others that used the cross slide to feed in directly with inserts did have problems with tool breakdown occasionally which can also cause a divot in the threads or even leave small particles of the insert in the metal. Shop production records showed the differences with the two methods and direct feeding with the cross slide was banned in the shop. We were producing die sets for plastic pipe extrusion that were just plain too expensive to mess up with the last threading operation.


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## frisco

Just got a Bull Nose Live Center and some boring tools. Took an old beater Mag and did some practice on the outside and the inside. Still need to learn how to use the part that supports the outside while working on the inside.









frisco


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## modamag

nice job fris


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## tattooedwhitetrash

Anyone have any more information on or experiences with the Grizzly 10x22.


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## StrikerDown

frisco said:


> Just got a Bull Nose Live Center and some boring tools. Took an old beater Mag and did some practice on the outside and the inside. Still need to learn how to use the part that supports the outside while working on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> frisco




Do you mean the steady rest?

How is it going with the Lathe? I am thinking about getting one for home/hobby gun, flashlight and misc. I really like the 1" through spindle size.


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## tyleryoungblood

fludunlimited said:


> how about flammability with kerosene?
> and dose any one know where i could get
> quick retract tool post. no sure if thats what its
> called.



I also own the G0602 and I'm very impressed with it so far. It has a lot of nice features for $1k. 

Grizzly sells a Quick Change Tool Post (QCTP) for lathes with a 10" swing that works nicely with this lathe. You will have to mill the blank to fit the T-slot on the cross slide, but you mentioned that you had access to a mill, so that shouldn't be a problem. 

I made a video about the QCTP upgrade and posted it on Youtube, you might find it helpful. The link below skips the first 51 seconds and "cuts to the chase" so to speak.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_r2finp1RCw#t=00m51s

Another hitch you will likely run into is finding the right Gearbox Oil called for in the manual. If memory serves, it was Mobil DTE Heavy-Medium. I looked all over and finally found it for sale from Enco in 1 gal quantities. You might also want to buy way oil at the same time (to save on shipping). I bought Mobil Vactra #2 and it works fine. 1 Gallon might seem like a lot of way oil, but I've gone through a lot already. 

And lastly, if you're looking for a few beginner projects to "cut your teeth" on before you move on to your bike parts, consider taking a look a my website:

ProjectsInMetal.com

I've compiled several projects for the lathe and mill, complete with plans in PDF format, and they are free to download. 

Good luck with your new lathe! As a fellow G0602 owner, I know you'll enjoy it. 

Tyler


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