# NiteCore Extreme Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.



## selfbuilt

_*REVIEWER’S NOTE:* This is a two-part review – the first part is a build overview of the EDGETAC NiteCore Extreme. The Second part is a detailed comparison of the Extreme to other lights of its class, including earlier NiteCore Defender Infinity (NDI). Both NiteCore lights were provided free of charge by EDGETAC for review. They are currently available in Canada at photongears.com and fenixtactical.com._

*PART I: Extreme Build Overview*







As you can see, the extreme comes in the same sort of packaging as the other EDGETAC lights. Included in the sturdy box (with foam inserts and metal closing clasp) are the warranty card, manual, and spare parts (including two extra forward clickies, mini-Allen key and some o-rings). 










Overall design is similar to the NDI, although bulkier and more substantial. This extra mass (and heatsinking fins near the emitter) should help to dissipate heat fairly well. The light features the same “anti-roll” rings as the NDI around the head and tailcap, but the attached clip is really the most useful anti-roll device. The bezel-pointing clip is a new feature on this light, and feels quite substantial. It is removable, attached by a couple of hex screws (mini-Allen key wrench included with the spare parts).






Build quality is top-notch on my sample – no visible machining marks, anodizing is flawless and smooth. Anodizing is a very dark slate gray natural finish (HA-III), almost black. There is diamond pattern knurling around the main body portion of the light. Lettering is clear and sharp (I'm guessing laser etched). Note the general lack of identifying labels (early version NDIs and RaidFire Spears were a little over the top ).

Like the NDI, this version of the Extreme features a crenelated bezel with 3 points, allowing you to tell if the light is on when standing face down. Note that this introduces something of a “triangulation” of the spillbeam pattern up close (i.e. looks like a rounded triangle at close range). An alternate version of the light is sold with a smooth stainless steel bezel ring that doesn’t produce this pattern.






I haven’t tried accessing the head yet, but you can see it uses a fairly substantial heatsink below the emitter (I’m guessing brass). This is very reassuring given the very high output the light is capable of on max. :thumbsup:






There is no separate tailcap portion to this light, so no tailcap lock-out is possible (switching occurs through the head, so no lock-out is possible there either). So, you may ask, how do you change the forward clicky switch if you need to? There’s an exterior switch retaining ring located around the switch boot cover. An interesting design I haven’t seen before.






One issue with this design is that there is no way to “push” a tight-fitting battery out of the tube – you need to “pull” it out by the positive end. It would therefore be ill-advised to force a protected battery down the body tube. All of my black-label AW protected RCRs fit fine (although the earlier ones are a bit snug). Unfortunately, my blue-label AW protected RCRs seem to be too thick to fit down the body tube. I’d recommend those with blue-labels consider upgrading if you want to use RCR in this light. My gray Ultrafire protected also seems to be too tight a fit. YMMV…

The forward clicky has the exact same feel as on my NDI, although I haven’t disassembled yet to confirm whether or not they are identical. 






As you can see above, the Extreme uses the new “silver” version of the Cree Q5 emitter (i.e. the area outside central die is silver in color, instead of the standard Cree yellow). My understanding is that there are no output differences between the silver and yellow versions, and these simply reflect different manufacturing plants. Light uses an aluminum reflector with modest texturing (i.e. I’d consider it a medium orange peel, MOP).

The lens supposedly has a “diamond coating” exterior and anti-reflective interior coating. Obviously, I have no way of testing that, but it looks clear and clean, like all my EDGETAC lights. 






The o-ring between the head and body is fairly thick, making it stiff when tightening the head all the way to the body. Resistance is higher than any of my NDIs, and definitely requires use of two hands to switch modes (scroll down for a discussion of the interface). This may be done on purpose to improve waterproofness. Note the light ships quite “dry” – little or no lube on the threads and o-rings. I know from experience with NDIs to avoid getting any lube on the threads in the head, as this can cause contact/mode-switching problems due to the interface. 

*Dimensions:*
Length: 94mm
Max width (bezel): 26.0mm
Min width (body): 21.1mm
Weight: 65.4g

Size of the light is a bit bigger than I expected, but quite reasonable. Scroll down to Part II of this review for a photo comparison to other lights of its class. But for now, upon request, here's a hand reference shot: 






Since I have rather long hands and fingers, I’ve elicited the help of Mrs. Selfbuilt below (she is petite with small hands). 






*Interface:* 

Like the NDI, the Extreme uses PWM at an undetectable frequency (i.e. >1 kHz). No signs of visible flicker at any level in my testing. :thumbsup: Strobe freq is 9Hz.

User interface is exactly the same as the NDI. You can set your own user defined mode through a continuously variable brightness mechanism. The light is controlled by a forward clicky switch with momentary on, followed by a click to lock-on. Sequence is as follows:


With the head in the fully tightened position, momentary press or click on the switch and you get maximum brightness.
To get to the user defined (i.e. lower modes), simply slightly loosen the head a quarter turn from fully tightened.
To change the low mode brightness level (i.e. to set user defined level), while in the user defined mode tighten and then loosen the head within 0.5 sec, and the light will ramp up to the maximum brightness (takes about 6-7 secs to run the whole range - see graph below). Loosen and tighten again to get the light to ramp back down to minimum. Switch the clicky off to save whatever output setting you desire (memory mode feature means the light will come back on at that level). 
To get strobe, start with head fully tightened (i.e. on Max). Loosen and tighten the head within 0.5 sec to enter strobe mode. Note that the light has a memory feature, so it will come back on in strobe if you click it off in that mode. To get back to max, loosen and tighten the head again.
And that’s it. The whole user interface is quite simple and straight-forward. I’ve always found it very intuitive. Note that due to switching-mode nature of the light, there will be a slight lag if you want to simply go back and forth from user defined to max (i.e. it waits 0.5 sec after you tighten/loosen the head, in case you were in the middle of performing a switching cycle)

*Variable Output ramping time*






*Update:* I've just done the ramping sequence analysis for the Extreme. As you can see, performance closely matches the NiteCore Defender Infinity (NDI). On primaries, the Extreme seems have a virtually identical ramp to the NDI on 14500. On RCR, I would say my Extreme ramps up about ~1 sec faster. Note that the EDGETAC offerings are lot more visually linear than the Novatac 120P (although that is intentional - the Novatac steps through half-values of 120 and 85 lumens as it ramps).

Note that unlike some makers, the ramping sequence is very linear in EDGETAC lights. 

*For beamshots, throw/output, and runtime comparisons, please see Part II of this review.*

*PART II: Comparison of the Extreme to other lights*

For this part of the review, the NiteCore Extreme will be compared to the Fenix P2D-Q5, Novatac 120P, Lumapower Incendio, JetBeam Jet-II IBS, and original NiteCore Defender Infinity (left to right in photo below).






*Beamshots:*

On AW Protected RCR or 14500 (on Max/Turbo/100%) at ~0.5m from a white wall.
















First thing to notice is the somewhat triangular spillbeam of the Extreme, due to its 3-point crenelated bezel (although this less noticeable at further distances, so really isn't an issue in practice). Tint on my sample is very white, with a slight purplish tint. Despite the OP reflector, Cree rings are still noticeable at this range. Note the Novatac 120P uses a SSC emitter, but all the other lights are Crees. 

Despite how it looks in the camera pic above, in real life the Extreme is noticeably brighter than the NDI (confirmed by lightbox and ceiling bounce, see below).

*Testing Method:* All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's FR.com method. My relative overall output numbers are typically similar to his, although generally a little lower. You can directly compare all my review graphs - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. Ceiling-bounce tests are done in a small windowless room, with my light meter on the floor near the base of the light (which is shining upward in candle-mode). Throw values are the square-root of lux measurements taken at 1m using a light meter. 

*Summary Chart:*






In terms of estimating max total output, I believe the ceiling bounce numbers are the most accurate (my milk carton lightbox tends to underestimate at the really high-end of outputs). As you can see, max output of the Extreme on RCR is considerably more than the NDI.  

The Extreme is in fact one of the brightest 1xCR123A/RCR lights in my collection – second only to the continuously-variable JetBeam Jet-II IBS. FYI, note that output of the Jet-II is underestimated slightly by my lightbox, since it doesn't like really strong throwers. The Extreme is also slightly brighter than the direct-driven Fenix P2D-Q5. 

In terms of minimum output, the Extreme is unfortunately a bit brighter than the NDI, but close to the continuously-variable Jet-II. Note that nothing compares to the Novatac for a truly low low mode. The Extreme also has greater throw than most of the other lights here (except for the Jet-II, of course). I will need to play with the Extreme more at night before I can make any judgements about the usefulness of its beam (typically, I don’t like a pronounced hotspot on low-output lights).

*Weights:*
NiteCore Extreme: 65.4g
Fenix P2D-Q5: 38.8g
Novatac 120P: 72.6g
Lumapower Incendio: 31.3g
JetBeam Jet-II IBS: 58.5
NiteCore NDI: 44.1g

As you can see, the Extreme is second only the Novatac in overall weight.

*Runtimes:* 

_*Note:*_Like the NDI, the Extreme does NOT have defined medium/low modes – rather, the light uses a continuously variable digitally-controlled brightness level. For the purposes of this review, I’ve manually set the Extreme to a number of output levels for comparison purposes. I’ve labeled these as “-ish” settings, since they are only approximate.

Note as well that there can be a pronounced difference between RCR and primary CR123A on any one specifically-set User Defined mode. At the higher end of the range, CR123As are just a little dimmer than RCR. But at the low end of the range, CR123As show quite a bit less output. 






























_**NOTE:* Although the Novatac 120P run was started at 15 lumens (level 16), the light output quickly dropped in half to 7.5 lumens (level 14) for the entire run. Not sure why this happened, but I've left the trace in since it gives you a good comparison to the Incendio low level._

*Output/runtime observations:*


No doubt about - the NiteCore Extreme is one of the brightest 1xCR123A/RCR lights in my collection. :twothumbs
Efficiency at maximum output level on RCR is excellent, as good as I've seen. Only the JetBeam Jet-II IBS is able to produce to more light (with lower runtime, of course).
On max, the Extreme is noticeably brighter than the NDI when both are run on Li-ion rechargeables.
Efficiency on RCR in the user defined modes is also quite good - typically as good or better than the other regulated lights. At the lowest output intensities, the Novatac 120P is only one that beats it.
A similar pattern is observed for CR123A primaries – the Extreme is the output/runtime king. 
At lower output levels, the Novatac is again the best performer – but the Extreme is still quite good up until its minimum setting (runtimes being re-checked, will update when done).
In terms of absolute lows, the Extreme doesn’t go quite as low as the NDI or the continuously-variable JetBeam Jet-II IBS. 
The Extreme features excellent regulated performance on all battery types at all settings tested so far. Note the interesting little output spike on both battery types just before dropping out of regulation.
Ramping sequence is relatively linear and very close to the NDI (virtually identical on primaries, and about ~1 sec faster on RCR)
Unlike the NDI, I haven’t seen any evidence of a low battery warning on Li-ion on the Extreme. As usual, I don’t recommend unprotected cells in lights that aren’t specifically designed for them.
*Preliminary Discussion:*

Initial impressions are that the Extreme is a very impressive light. Output and runtime are top-notch, judging by the performance on the tests I’ve run so far. 

Build-wise, it is not quite as substantial feeling as the Novatac, but it is certainly hefty and solidly-built. EDGETAC seems to have paid a lot of consideration to proper heatsinking, and the design makes sense to me. The clicky switch access on the exterior of the light near the tailcap switch cover is fairly unique, and the inclusion of two extra clicky switches is generous (forward clickies are known to have a greater failure rate than reverse ones).

The only body issues I’ve noticed is the fairly tight fit with some protected batteries (e.g. my blue-label AW protected RCRs won’t fit). The o-ring around the top of the battery tube is also a bit thick, increasing the resistance when you try to fully tighten the head to go to max output or perform a mode switch. It is still manageable, but it is stiffer than my NDIs (and I know this was a sticking point for some on the NDI, pardon the pun ).

There has been some confusion regarding overall output of the Extreme compared to the NDI. In my case, I would tend to trust my ceiling bounce numbers, since I know my milk carton lightbox underestimates output at the very high end. My 3 NDIs all perform very closely to each other, and this Extreme is at least a good ~45% brighter than any of them on max on Li-ion. I typically try to avoid lumen estimates, but if you believe the NDI is around 130 lumens on 14500 (which I think is reasonable, compared to my Novatac 120P), then I would say 190 lumens for the Extreme on RCR is believable. To my mind, this is a perfectly reasonable engineering decision, given the much better heatsinking designed into the Extreme compared to the NDI.

My only other minor quibbles are the somewhat triangular spillbeam at close quarters (solved by going for the smooth stainless steel bezel version), and the somewhat higher minimum output setting compared to the NDI (although still quite low and pretty close to the Jet-II IBS).

Personally, I find it a very attractive looking light, somewhat more akin to a custom-built light than a mass-produced one. When you consider the price (<$90) and all the features, it seems to be a good buy in this space. If you want a solidly-built, continuously variable, forward clicky 1xCR123A/RCR light with good throw, very high overall output, and excellent runtime, then this light could be the one for you. 

I'll be updating this thread once I'm back home next week and can play with it some more!

*UPDATE June 2, 2008:* Variable output ramping results have now been added to the review above.

Having played with the light a little more, I find the "triangulation" of the spill beam is not really noticeable in real-world use (i.e. only pronounced at close distances on white wall ). 

In terms of the lowest output mode (which I use the most at night), I find the sharply defined hotspot of the Extreme to be less than ideal. This leads to a bit of the "follow the bouncing ball" effect as you are walking (similar to my comments for the Jet-I MK IBS).

In this regard, I prefer the smoother hotspot/spill transition of my Novatac 120P and my NDI. I also like the 120P for its much lower low modes. However, I like the proportionally brighter spill area of the Extreme and NDI over the dimmer spill of the 120P. 

The end result for low mode use is that I find the NDI has the best characteristics of spot/spill brightness and transition of all my lights so far. But I'm still playing with all of them, and will keep you posted if I notice anything else.

For high mode use, the Extreme is definitely the brightest light of those mentioned above, with the best throw (although the Jet-II is clearly the throw king on the 1xCR123A/RCR format).

*UPDATE June 17, 2008:*

EDIT: Just completed the Min output mode runtimes, and my results seem low on primaries. I've checked this EDGETAC, and they are looking into whether its an issue with my specific sample or the final circuit in general. Once they get back to me, I will update this thread with the results. Stay tuned!

*UPDATE October 28, 2008:*

The low mode runtime issue has turned into a rather complicated problem, and one that goes far beyond Edgetac and this one light. Please see my post #216 in this thread for a detailed commentary.


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## xcel730

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

Nice review selfbuilt. :twothumbs The head looks a little too big for the body. Looks kind of awkward. Have you tried putting the head onto a Surefire E series light? It'll be nice to know which one it's compatible with. Thanks for taking the time for the review.


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## Crenshaw

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

thank you, i needed a comparison between the JetII and the NE....now im stuck agian! which one to buy....i dont want to buy both, but on the other hand, Milky hasnt replied my PM about an ML1 yet...

the JetII really is bright! but the NE looks so much cooler.

Crenshaw


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## Knifekulture

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

Excellent Review. Keep up your good work.:thumbsup:


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## selfbuilt

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*



Crenshaw said:


> thank you, i needed a comparison between the JetII and the NE....now im stuck agian! which one to buy....i dont want to buy both, but on the other hand, Milky hasnt replied my PM about an ML1 yet...the JetII really is bright! but the NE looks so much cooler.


Yeah, it would be tough to choose just one. 

The Extreme has a more generally useful beam, since overall spill width is wider. It still maintains very good throw, but nowhere near as good as the Jet-II. Extreme also comes with a forward clicky. And it also looks like the Extreme should have better heatsinking capabilities (although I haven't tested heat measures). But the Jet-II has three memory stages instead of two, and a fairly good beam defocusing feature with locking ring.

Both are very nice lights. 



xcel730 said:


> Nice review selfbuilt. :twothumbs The head looks a little too big for the body. Looks kind of awkward. Have you tried putting the head onto a Surefire E series light? It'll be nice to know which one it's compatible with. Thanks for taking the time for the review.


Unfortunately, I don't have any Surefire E series lights to try, sorry.


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## Crenshaw

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*



selfbuilt said:


> Yeah, it would be tough to choose just one.
> 
> The Extreme has a more generally useful beam, since overall spill width is wider. It still maintains very good throw, but nowhere near as good as the Jet-II. Extreme also comes with a forward clicky. And it also looks like the Extreme should have better heatsinking capabilities (although I haven't tested heat measures). But the Jet-II has three memory stages instead of two, and a fairly good beam defocusing feature with locking ring.
> 
> Both are very nice lights.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I don't have any Surefire E series lights to try, sorry.



thanks, i already emailed my local distibutor about getting one....look like ill just have to get both...the extreme just cos it looks so good,and im an edgetac fan... and the Jet-II cos ive been looking for a pocket thrower after all the fun im having with my tiablo.  the moment i saw the head of the jet-II, i wanted it......i could probably sell either on BST well enough if it doesnt work out..

question, is the throw of the JetII impressive? like " wow, i cant believe something this small throws that far" impressive...

Crenshaw


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## vincebdx

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

Very nice review as always :twothumbs


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## nanotech17

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

 reviews


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## Kilovolt

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

Thanks for the excellent review.


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## moses

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

Thanks for the EXCELLENT data. While I like the Extreme, also confirms the overall great design of the Fenix lights such as the P2D. 2nd smallest, and yet one of the most efficient and very close in total light production as the two latest and greatest. (Extreme & Jetbeam)

Super review. Thanks.

Mo


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## NoFair

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

Very nice review:thumbsup:

Thanks for doing this.

Sverre


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## funder

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*



Crenshaw said:


> thanks, i already emailed my local distibutor about getting one....look like ill just have to get both...the extreme just cos it looks so good,and im an edgetac fan... and the Jet-II cos ive been looking for a pocket thrower after all the fun im having with my tiablo.  the moment i saw the head of the jet-II, i wanted it......i could probably sell either on BST well enough if it doesnt work out..
> 
> question, is the throw of the JetII impressive? like " wow, i cant believe something this small throws that far" impressive...
> 
> Crenshaw




Who is the local distributor?


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## selfbuilt

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*



Crenshaw said:


> question, is the throw of the JetII impressive? like " wow, i cant believe something this small throws that far" impressive...


I would say yes. It throws further than my T1 did, and nearly as far as the first batch of Regal WT1s. For that matter, it throws about as far as the first P4 version of the MRV did! Very impressive in such a small size.

But the Extreme is a surprisingly decent thrower - a bit too much perhaps, since I tend to like a floodier beam in this size light (e.g. Novatac and Incendio).



moses said:


> Thanks for the EXCELLENT data. While I like the Extreme, also confirms the overall great design of the Fenix lights such as the P2D. 2nd smallest, and yet one of the most efficient and very close in total light production as the two latest and greatest. (Extreme & Jetbeam)


It's true, Fenix is always the leader when it comes to output/runtime efficiency thanks to its current-controlled circuit (although you'll see here the Extreme seems to match or beat it, especially at the high end of the output range). 

The problem with the P2D circuit in this context is the lack of defined levels on RCR, and lack of a true low mode. Which also helps explain Fenix's efficiency dominance on regular batteries - it's a lot easier when you don't need to design-in regulated support on a wide range of input voltages. Fenix's efficient current-controlled circuitry also isn't amenable to low output levels either. But if that doesn't matter to you, the P2D is great light.


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## Crenshaw

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*



selfbuilt said:


> I would say yes. It throws further than my T1 did, and nearly as far as the first batch of Regal WT1s. For that matter, it throws about as far as the first P4 version of the MRV did! Very impressive in such a small size.
> 
> But the Extreme is a surprisingly decent thrower - a bit too much perhaps, since I tend to like a floodier beam in this size light (e.g. Novatac and Incendio).



yup, looks like both of them are in my future...thanks! :thumbsup:

funder, i PM-ed you..

Crenshaw


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## BabyDoc

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

The EXTREME beam shots here and elsewhere appear to have the typical Cree Q5 black donut around the hotspot. I wonder if it is obvious in actual usage as is it is the photographs. Its strange but my second NDI from a more recent shipment had less of this than on my earlier NDI, with which the beam shots of the EXTREME look more similar.


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## Phaserburn

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

Selfbuilt, thanks for the review. I have an Extreme on the way!

I just wanted to reiterate that I really enjoy your work and appreciate the considerable amount of time that I know it takes. As a result, you've established yourself as one of CPF's top tester/reviewers. Gracias!


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## Buffalohump

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

+1 to that! :thumbsup:

Looks like a great little light - I like the stainless bezel version in particular.


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## TodToh

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

Thank you for your great review.
It seems that NiteCore could be a Fenix killer.oo:


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## JKL

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

:thanks: Selfbuilt, excellent review. :twothumbs


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## Tubor

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

Wow looks great. Thanks for the great review! Love those graphs, very informative. :twothumbs I've got the Jet II IBS . Really like the Jet II and I'm looking forwards to trying out the extreme (SS version)!!!!


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## ViReN

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

Excellent review Self Built :thumbsup:

In my case the runtime on MAX for hot off charger battery is 49 minutes and the same test done after 1 day from fully charged is about 47 minutes. That's more or less closer to your tests.


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## selfbuilt

*Re: NiteCore Extreme - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.*

Glad you are all enjoying the review! :grouphug:



BabyDoc said:


> The EXTREME beam shots here and elsewhere appear to have the typical Cree Q5 black donut around the hotspot. I wonder if it is obvious in actual usage as is it is the photographs. Its strange but my second NDI from a more recent shipment had less of this than on my earlier NDI, with which the beam shots of the EXTREME look more similar.


I may be a bad one to ask, but I find Cree rings don't bother me at all in real usage. I just don't notice them anywhere but a white wall!

In terms of degree of rings in beamshots, this often reflects minor focusing difference from one sample to another. If you look at my NDI review, you'll see my pre-production version has much less noticeable rings on the wall beamshot. But in real usage, I can't tell a difference between any of my NDIs.

The issue with the triangular beam at close quarters is probably more noticeable, but I'll need to play around with more when I get back next week.



ViReN said:


> In my case the runtime on MAX for hot off charger battery is 49 minutes and the same test done after 1 day from fully charged is about 47 minutes. That's more or less closer to your tests.


Thanks Viren, I enjoy your reviews as well. 

That's very good battery performance - I presume for an AW protected? I've got 4 AW black-label RCRs (bought at different times), and their performance is all within a minute or two of each other on max drain (e.g. Jet-II IBS). Oddly, I've noticed a lot more variability on my AW 14500 protecteds (some seem to have the same capacity as the RCRs, some are a good 25% or more - one is even 40% longer lasting). So there's definitely some potential for battery variability here.

All my runtimes are done hot off the charger (TL-100) for all my reviews.


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## Hitthespot

Thanks Selfbuilt. Your review answered some questions I had about the Extreme. Great Job. Thank you for taking the time for your CPF brotherin.

Bill


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## sb_pete

Great review Selfbuilt! (as always).

Quick question / request:

How low is the lowest low? How does it compare to that of the NDI? How about compared to the Lightflux LF2X? Could you post some beamshots comparing the NEx's lowest low with that of the NDI (and maybe a few others - LF2X hopefully?)?

Thanks,
-Pete


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## RobertM

This light is really looking tempting. Does anyone know how its total output and throw compare to a SF E1B?


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## Steve L

sb_pete said:


> Great review Selfbuilt! (as always).
> 
> Quick question / request:
> 
> How low is the lowest low? How does it compare to that of the NDI? How about compared to the Lightflux LF2X? Could you post some beamshots comparing the NEx's lowest low with that of the NDI (and maybe a few others - LF2X hopefully?)?
> 
> Thanks,
> -Pete


Hi Pete
From the first post


> At lower output levels, the Novatac is again the best performer – but the Extreme is still excellent and at least as good as the other regulated competition.
> In terms of absolute lows, unfortunately the Extreme doesn’t go quite as low as the NDI, but it is pretty close to the continuously-variable JetBeam Jet-II IBS.


 
Also in the first post, take a look at the Summary chart.
The second chart has the minimum outputs for all five lights.

Edit: Hi Selfbuilt, 
On the low test, Was the Novatac 120P at the factory low setting - level 5 (.3 lumens) or did you ramp it down to level 1(.08 lumens)?
Thanks Steve


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## BMF

It's all your fault Selfbuit!

I ordered both Extreme and Jet-II IBS SS head. When they arrive I will compare them with my 120P, NI and Incendio just like your review. The only one is missing in my collection is Fenix: I don't have any Fenix light.


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## Crenshaw

BMF said:


> It's all your fault Selfbuit!
> 
> I ordered both Extreme and Jet-II IBS SS head. When they arrive I will compare them with my 120P, NI and Incendio just like your review. The only one is missing in my collection is Fenix: I don't have any Fenix light.



gasp!

you need the P1D-Q5...:nana:

Crenshaw


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## Hitthespot

I just re-read the review. I missed a very important point the first time around. The fact that this light cannot be locked out is a major issue for me. I have forgot to lockout my NDI and had it come on in my pocket. Not pleasant. 

I'm not sure if I can get past this feature missing or not. I believe any pocket rocket like the Extreme should be able to lock out. I can't think of any lights that I have purchased in the last year that don't lock out.

I will have to give this more thought but a light small enough to be placed in a pocket that you can't lock out doesn't sound right to me. Again I will have to give it more thought.

Bill


----------



## Federal LG

Outstanding review Selfbuilt!

Thanks for doing it! :thumbsup:


----------



## BMF

BMF said:


> It's all your fault Selfbuit!
> 
> I ordered both Extreme and Jet-II IBS SS head. When they arrive I will compare them with my 120P, NI and Incendio just like your review. The only one is missing in my collection is Fenix: I don't have any Fenix light.





> Originally Posted by *Crenshaw*
> 
> 
> _gasp!_
> 
> _you need the P1D-Q5...:nana:_
> 
> _Crenshaw_


 
I believe my Jet 1 Pro R2 has more output than P1D-Q5 ...


----------



## paulr

Anybody else notice the McLux styling inspiration, in the bezel fins and pocket clip?


----------



## CandlePowerForumsUser

selfbuilt said:


> There’s an exterior switch retaining ring located around the switch boot cover. An interesting design I haven’t seen before.



I think surefire e series lights have the retaining ring. Might be a little different though.

Thanks for the great review... I really want this light but I must hold off.. trying to save up $280 for a UA2 .


----------



## selfbuilt

Steve L said:


> On the low test, Was the Novatac 120P at the factory low setting - level 5 (.3 lumens) or did you ramp it down to level 1(.08 lumens)?


The Novatac was set to the lowest low, level 1.



Hitthespot said:


> I just re-read the review. I missed a very important point the first time around. The fact that this light cannot be locked out is a major issue for me. I have forgot to lockout my NDI and had it come on in my pocket. Not pleasant.


Yes, that is a concern. The design doesn't seem to allow for a lock-out, unfortunately (a feature I especially like with a forward clicky).

Note the Jet-II IBS also doesn't come with a tailcap lock-out - which is strange, since both the Jet-I MK IBS and Jet-III IBS do. Hopefully JetBeam will fix that with the Jet-II Pro. Not sure what can be done with Exteme though, since there is no tailcap portion.



BMF said:


> I believe my Jet 1 Pro R2 has more output than P1D-Q5 ...


Well, since the Jet-I Pro isn't driven as hard on Li-ion, max output is a bit lower than my P2D-Q5. Hard to compare directly since Jet-I Pro is so throwy, but the Fenix does seem to have a slight edge in both my lightbox and ceiling bounce (but the difference isn't huge).


----------



## BBL

Please someone try if the head fits surefire e-series bodies. That would be great.


----------



## UWAK

BBL said:


> Please someone try if the head fits surefire e-series bodies. That would be great.



+1 for this feature. Anyone???


----------



## Kato

BBL said:


> Please someone try if the head fits surefire e-series bodies. That would be great.


 
I just Lego'ed the Extreme head onto a black E2e body with a 17670. Everything worked fine, including mode changes.


----------



## Izual73

BBL said:


> Please someone try if the head fits surefire e-series bodies. That would be great.


https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2492150&postcount=32


----------



## BBL

Cool, thanks!


----------



## skyline_man

Just out of curiosity, which light would you prefer out of the extreme and the 120P? Is the extreme good enough to knock the 120p off its throne?


----------



## selfbuilt

skyline_man said:


> Just out of curiosity, which light would you prefer out of the extreme and the 120P? Is the extreme good enough to knock the 120p off its throne?


It's hard to say.

For low mode use, I definitely prefer the much lower low modes of the 120P, and I like the smoother transition of spot to spill that the SSC emitter provides. But I find the spill of the 120P to be a little dim, requiring me to go up to higher output levels to illuminate a wider area. But if I had to choose between the two for low mode night-time use, the 120P would win. But truth be told, I keep finding myself gravitating back to my NDI for low mode use for its good balance of spot/spill brightness.

The Extreme is of course a lot brighter and throwier on hi, which is great for that use. It is also more efficient on max (I typically don't run my 120P higher than 85 lumens, because I find the trade-off in battery runtime isn't worth it). With its excellent throw and brighter spill, I prefer the Extreme for cases where a lot of light is desired. But here I'm more likely to grab my Jet-II IBS, due to its even better throw.

In other words, I have yet to find one light that does everything. 

Oh, and I've just added the ramping graph to the main post. As you can see, its not too different from the NDI (just ~1 sec faster on RCR):


----------



## TOTC

Thanks for the fantastic review. Especially now that it has been confirmed to be compatible with E-series bodies, this light may be in my near future. 

Two quick questions that have to do with my poor reading comprehension 

1. Can you confirm that no amount of tapping on the switch will change modes? I'm 99% sure this is what you are saying when you specifically note that only the head switches modes, but I just want to be 100% sure before I bite the bullet. I like to be able to tap away in momentary without switching modes.

2. You mentioned that the user can switch to the user-defined brightness by loosening the head, but can this only be done once the light is already on? I.E. does the light have to be activated in high mode and then switched down to low via a twist of the head, or can you twist the head loose while the light is off so that it can be turned on in low mode?


----------



## DrunkenDonut

TOTC said:


> 1. Can you confirm that no amount of tapping on the switch will change modes?


It should not - it doesn't use a power-controlled mode switching method.



> 2. You mentioned that the user can switch to the user-defined brightness by loosening the head, but can this only be done once the light is already on?


If you turn the light off then switch modes, the light will turn on in the old mode first, then switch to the new mode after the detection period of about 0.5 seconds. It seems to switch faster sometimes. :shrug:


----------



## selfbuilt

TOTC said:


> 1. Can you confirm that no amount of tapping on the switch will change modes?


Tap away!  There's no way to change modes at the tailcap, only by twisting the head.



> 2. You mentioned that the user can switch to the user-defined brightness by loosening the head, but can this only be done once the light is already on? I.E. does the light have to be activated in high mode and then switched down to low via a twist of the head, or can you twist the head loose while the light is off so that it can be turned on in low mode?


Because the light allows half a second to change modes from user defined, whenever you tighten the head you have have to wait 0.5 secs for the brightness to jump to max. If the light is off when you tighten the head (i.e. light was in user defined when turned off), you will still need to wait 0.5 secs after activation for the light to go to max. This is the same as the NDI.

The other direction is different. On my NDIs, if the light was in max when shut-off (i.e. tightened), but subsequently loosened before re-activation, the light comes back on immediately in user defined mode. I just tested this on my Extreme though, and there is a wrinkle - if you do drop down to user defined and re-activate the light within a few seconds of turning it off in max, you get a brief flash before it goes to the previously set user defined level (*very* similar to the well-known Fenix P2D/LxD flash in low mode). The flash isn't present on any of my NDIs, and only shows up on the Extreme if you re-activate within ~ 5secs of turning it off.


----------



## TOTC

Interesting. Thanks guys!


----------



## DrunkenDonut

selfbuilt said:


> The other direction is a bit different. ...



Hrm.. My memory is going  I also see that flash when going in that direction, but it doesn't happen all the time, does it? I just tried again and it's working without any bright flash.


----------



## selfbuilt

DrunkenDonut said:


> Hrm.. My memory is going  I also see that flash when going in that direction, but it doesn't happen all the time, does it? I just tried again and it's working without any bright flash.


Yeah, I've been playing with it some more, and it seems the flash only occurs if you re-activate the light within ~ 5 secs from turning it off in max. If you give it longer than that, then there is no flash after going from max to user defined while switched off. I've just updated my earlier comments.


----------



## DrunkenDonut

Regarding e-series compat., in case anyone is curious about some lego combinations, here's another pic of the McClickie + Extreme head, as well as the Extreme body with E1e head (a really compact combo). 

http://www.madbits.ca/~j_chan/Gallery/2008-06-01__ExtremeShorty/DSC01102.html

E1e body with Extreme head was posted a few times earlier. I don't have too many more pieces I could put together so I guess that's it for now unless you want to see a rediculous pic of the Exteme body + E-C adapter + C-M adapter + Milkyspit M180-KL2.

I also posted the that combo earlier but with the McClickie instead of the Extreme body. It's not a particularly good colour combo but at least the light is functional and gets a chuckle or two.


----------



## Crenshaw

DrunkenDonut said:


> unless you want to see a rediculous pic of the Exteme body + E-C adapter + C-M adapter + Milkyspit M180-KL2.





by the way, what are you running in the extreme body+E1E head?

im waiting for fenix-store to have them in store before i buy one...

Crenshaw


----------



## DrunkenDonut

Crenshaw said:


>



Okay okay.. Well, here's the McClickie but the Extreme should be similar. It's quite front heavy but it's fun.  The head is with my brother so I have to borrow it back to take another picture. Perhaps later.

http://www.madbits.ca/~j_chan/Gallery/2008-05-26__McClickie/DSC01078.html



> by the way, what are you running in the extreme body+E1E head?


Nothing at the moment. It's the stock incan head so it's not particularly impressive. Perhaps I'll get one of koala's towers.


----------



## Nake

Got mine today, nice light. Something I'd like to pass on. I found the allen key they supplied for the clip screws, a bit sloppy when I put it in the screw. I mic'd it up and it was .058". I found one that fit snug and it was .062". I'm mentioning it because if the screw is tight, you stand a chance of rounding it off inside.


----------



## selfbuilt

Nake said:


> I found the allen key they supplied for the clip screws, a bit sloppy when I put it in the screw. I mic'd it up and it was .058". I found one that fit snug and it was .062". I'm mentioning it because if the screw is tight, you stand a chance of rounding it off inside.


Thanks Nake. My supplied key is also .058", and I found it turned the screws fine. But as always, a tighter fit is better.

FYI, I've just updated the main post with a runtime of Novatac 120P at 15lm (level 16) on primaries, and added the 120P ramp.





(just hit your browser re-load if its not showing the 120P trace)

Note that while the 120P also takes ~11.5 secs or so to run through its full output range of 22 steps, it takes another ~13 secs or so to go through the 2 strobe and 1 SOS modes before restarting the 22 output levels. 

FYI, I'm only showing ~every other step on the 120P, for simplicity sake. I'll be presenting a more detailed 120P ramping graph when I finally get around to writing a separate review of that light.

:wave:


----------



## 276

i just got mine today can't try RCR's in them cause the only ones i have is are to thick, i looked at fenix store but cant tell which ones to get?


----------



## selfbuilt

276 said:


> i just got mine today can't try RCR's in them cause the only ones i have is are to thick, i looked at fenix store but cant tell which ones to get?


AW RCR123A


----------



## Nake

Well, after a few days of owning mine, the switch starts to not work correctly. I should say working intermitently. So I'm thinking the switch has gone bad, that's why there are 2 extra right,... wrong. I replace it and same thing. After closer scrutinizing, I see that the retaining ring that holds the switch assembly together is too small. That is, the threads on the ring are barely coming in contact with the threads in the body. I can actually put the ring on my pinky finger and push it into the body. After wrapping a couple of layers of teflon tape on the ring, it seems to be holding. I shouldn't have to do this with a $100 light.

I bought this at Scope and Laser and don't want to send it back, as I'm not clear on their return policy. All I need is a retaining ring that fits. Does Nitecore have an email address where I can get this problem solved?

I am so pissed!!!!


----------



## selfbuilt

Nake said:


> Well, after a few days of owning mine, the switch starts to not work correctly. I should say working intermitently. So I'm thinking the switch has gone bad, that's why there are 2 extra right,... wrong. I replace it and same thing. After closer scrutinizing, I see that the retaining ring that holds the switch assembly together is too small. That is, the threads on the ring are barely coming in contact with the threads in the body. I can actually put the ring on my pinky finger and push it into the body. After wrapping a couple of layers of teflon tape on the ring, it seems to be holding. I shouldn't have to do this with a $100 light.


That's certainly not right. I haven't had any problems with mine, but I can see how this could be a potential weak link, given its small size.

I suspect scope and laser gets their lights from Fu-lee (based on some other threads about other lights), but best to go directly to Edgetac. You'll find their e-mail address at the bottom of their RaidFire Spear thread (I don't think its listed in the Extreme thread).

I'm sure they'll make it right for you - please keep us posted.

P.S.: I know there have been some issues with sole U.S. distributor of Edgetac lights, but I understand they are about to announce a second one. There are also two other north american distributors (both in Canada): photongears.com and fenixtactical.com. I don't know if any of the above could also help you out, but it never hurts to ask!


----------



## ViReN

Nake said:


> Well, after a few days of owning mine, the switch starts to not work correctly. I should say working intermitently. So I'm thinking the switch has gone bad, that's why there are 2 extra right,... wrong. I replace it and same thing. After closer scrutinizing, I see that the retaining ring that holds the switch assembly together is too small. That is, the threads on the ring are barely coming in contact with the threads in the body. I can actually put the ring on my pinky finger and push it into the body. After wrapping a couple of layers of teflon tape on the ring, it seems to be holding. I shouldn't have to do this with a $100 light.
> 
> I bought this at Scope and Laser and don't want to send it back, as I'm not clear on their return policy. All I need is a retaining ring that fits. Does Nitecore have an email address where I can get this problem solved?
> 
> I am so pissed!!!!



There is some thing that is not right with your light... try PMing EdgeTac on marketplace

Over the days Since the *Review* I have noticed that switch has become little soft and even more easy to operate... but no signs of any fatigue or intermittent working.... It still works like it used to before.

I am still continuing the long term testing... will post results in a couple of weeks ...


----------



## Nake

ViReN said:


> There is some thing that is not right with your light... try PMing EdgeTac on marketplace


 
I know what's wrong with it. The spring side of the board the switch is mounted on is supposed to make contact with a ledge inside the body. The retaining ring pushes on the edge of the rubber boot, which pushes on the switch board. Either the ring is bad or the treads in the body are bad. I'm guessing it's the ring.

I contacted Edgetac thru their support email address. They're on a holiday again.


----------



## Crenshaw

DrunkenDonut said:


> Okay okay.. Well, here's the McClickie but the Extreme should be similar. It's quite front heavy but it's fun.  The head is with my brother so I have to borrow it back to take another picture. Perhaps later.
> 
> http://www.madbits.ca/~j_chan/Gallery/2008-05-26__McClickie/DSC01078.html
> 
> Nothing at the moment. It's the stock incan head so it's not particularly impressive. Perhaps I'll get one of koala's towers.



 that looks oddly compelling,its surely a sign whoever the owner is is a flashaholic

perhpas lumen factory E1E bulb and a Li-on?

Crenshaw


----------



## EDGETAC

Nake said:


> Well, after a few days of owning mine, the switch starts to not work correctly. I should say working intermitently. So I'm thinking the switch has gone bad, that's why there are 2 extra right,... wrong. I replace it and same thing. After closer scrutinizing, I see that the retaining ring that holds the switch assembly together is too small. That is, the threads on the ring are barely coming in contact with the threads in the body. I can actually put the ring on my pinky finger and push it into the body. After wrapping a couple of layers of teflon tape on the ring, it seems to be holding. I shouldn't have to do this with a $100 light.
> 
> I bought this at Scope and Laser and don't want to send it back, as I'm not clear on their return policy. All I need is a retaining ring that fits. Does Nitecore have an email address where I can get this problem solved?
> 
> I am so pissed!!!!


 

Hello Nake,

Sorry for late response. 

Please refer to your email, I have just replied to it concerning the issue, thanks!


Best Regards,
EDGE TAC


----------



## liquidsix

Selfbuilt, where you have the level settings listed for the runtimes of the NEI, would you be able to tell us about how many seconds of ramping each level is?


----------



## selfbuilt

liquidsix said:


> Selfbuilt, where you have the level settings listed for the runtimes of the NEI, would you be able to tell us about how many seconds of ramping each level is?


Hard to say ... since the whole ramp is only ~6-8 secs, it's hard to give a reliable estimate based on time. Basically, I was just looking to find output levels that matched some of the other defined lights, to allow more direct comparisons. In practice, this meant a lot of back and forth ramping in each direction, as I tried to "zero" in on a few good values.


----------



## toby_pra

very nice review!!!


----------



## Dead_Nuts

Just received mine today. I am at work, so I only had primaries to run it on until I get home. Two very small issues: 1) my clip needs an adjustment as it has about 1/16" gap -- making it quite sloppy; and, 2) it came with a SS bezel and I ordered the black. One is easily fixable and the other I will live with (it's actually very nice looking, I'm just a tactical black kind of guy).

As for comparing this light to my Novatac 120P, I don't think thats' a fair comparison. This light is surely brighter (though I haven't compared them myself), but the beam pattern is just so nice on the Novatac. The 120P seems to be better made and the UI is wonderful. Plus, it tailstands.

Different lights make the world go around; and keep my wallet empty!


----------



## selfbuilt

Just updated the main post RCR Lo runtime graph with the Extreme results - runtime was just under 24 hours at the lowest output setting on RCR.

Note that minimum output is higher on RCR than it is on primaries. I've just started the low output run with a Surefire CR123A, which I suspect will be tying up my lightbox for the next couple of days. I'll post back when its done.

:wave:


----------



## Dead_Nuts

*WARNING!*

This may be just my light, but there is no way to get a protected AW (black shrinkwrap) in my light. I would NOT have purchased this light if I had known that. Primaries barely slide inside this light.

Once again, this may just be my light. But with no way to remove the tail, reaming out the tube is not feasible. 

*Buy with caution!*


----------



## liquidsix

selfbuilt said:


> Hard to say ... since the whole ramp is only ~6-8 secs, it's hard to give a reliable estimate based on time. Basically, I was just looking to find output levels that matched some of the other defined lights, to allow more direct comparisons. In practice, this meant a lot of back and forth ramping in each direction, as I tried to "zero" in on a few good values.



That's a shame. Picking an output close to another light's levels is pretty reasonable though. My one gripe with the nightcore UI is that you really don't know what runtime to expect from the level you've chosen. I'd almost be happier if it ramped up in steps instead of infintesimally just for this reason.

Dead Nuts: Too bad about getting the wrong light. I got to try out both versions before I bought it. In person they are both equally as pretty but the SS Bezel definitely has a nicer beam.


----------



## Nake

I have 4 black AWs and they all fit. Two of them slip out with gravity, the other two need a flick of the wrist.


----------



## selfbuilt

Dead_Nuts said:


> *WARNING!* This may be just my light, but there is no way to get a protected AW (black shrinkwrap) in my light. I would NOT have purchased this light if I had known that. Primaries barely slide inside this light.


Quotes from my review:



> _One issue with this design is that there is no way to “push” a tight-fitting battery out of the tube – you need to “pull” it out by the positive end. It would therefore be ill-advised to force a protected battery down the body tube. All of my black-label AW protected RCRs fit fine (although the earlier ones are a bit snug). Unfortunately, my blue-label AW protected RCRs seem to be too thick to fit down the body tube. I’d recommend those with blue-labels consider upgrading if you want to use RCR in this light. My gray Ultrafire protected also seems to be too tight a fit. YMMV…_





> _The only body issues I’ve noticed is the fairly tight fit with some protected batteries (e.g. my blue-label AW protected RCRs won’t fit)._



I've also used 4 different black-label AW batteries (2 early ones from when they first came out, 2 recent ones with black around the button top), and all fit fine - although the earlier ones are a bit snug, as I mentioned in my review. Primaries certainly all slide in and out quite easily.

Are there any obvious obstructions on your battery tube (i.e. rough edges, etc.)? For that matter, any irregularities in your AW black-label? Do you have more than one to test? 

In a pinch, you can always remove the label of the AW battery to help clearance (I've had to do this on my 1st gen VB-16 with some protected AW 18650s, for example). And as Nake said, a flick of the wrist will usually help displace a sticking battery.


----------



## Dead_Nuts

On mine, it's not even close. I'm not talking about them being so tight that I fear not being able to get them out; they simply cannot even be forced into the tube. I'm not exagerating either. Primaries barely slide in and out -- sometimes requiring assistance.

There is obviously serious differences in production tolerences here. If you want to use RCRs, *beware*.


----------



## Nake

You could use unprotected cells. The ones I have rattle back and forth in my tube. They're cheap at DX, and if you ruin one, so what. At $1.66 each they're cheaper than some primaries.


----------



## Dead_Nuts

If I still want to use this light much, I will have to try some unprotected cells. I thought that others should be warned that they may not be able to use the batteries they had intended to use in this light.

caveat emptor


ETA: The last batch of primaries I bought cost only $0.79ea (400). So, the cost is not what I'm concerned with. I just happen to like to use rechargeables with anything I EDC. Maybe this light will be relagated to a BOB with some spare primaries. My SHTF, TEOTWAWKI, CoMWeC plans call for only 2 battery sizes; 123 & AA. This fits the bill for storage.


----------



## gswitter

I received my Extreme (from hkequiptment) in the mail yesterday. The only reason I was interested in this light was the E-series legoability, and here are some findings...

The Extreme head fits and has full functionality on every E-series compatible body I tried: E1e, E2e, E1B, McClicky Pak, Maxlite, etc. I didn't try it on a Leef E-head body (I only have a 2x18650, and I didn't have time to dig out a dummy cell), but I hope to try that tonight.

The Extreme head / Mirage_Man 18650 body / McTC combo doesn't look half bad. It's a little long - longer than an L4, but shorter than an L2 - but it's not an uncomfortable size.

The Extreme body is only _somewhat_ compatible with E-series heads. The inner diameter is too narrow, and I could only find a few heads that could thread on all the way. The big o-ring is not the issue - the inner diameter of the Extreme body is a tight 16mm instead of the ~17mm of most E-series bodies. I found no E-series Surefire head that would thread on - KL1, KL4 and E1B head were no-go. An E2C adapter and C-series heads were no problem. McLux & Aleph heads with Lux/SSC cans generally fit, but the Cree can is too wide.

I'm not wild about the Extreme body (especially the switch), and I wasn't planning to use it anyway, so it doesn't really bother me that it won't work with other E-series heads. I like the head (especially the wider-than-NDI reflector), and compatibility with existing Surefire and aftermarket bodies is a nice plus.


----------



## Nake

Yea, I tried an Aleph 1x123 and 1.5x123 body with McTC cap and it looked pretty good.


----------



## selfbuilt

gswitter said:


> The Extreme head fits and has full functionality on every E-series compatible body I tried: E1e, E2e, E1B, McClicky Pak, Maxlite, etc. ... The Extreme body is only _somewhat_ compatible with E-series heads. The inner diameter is too narrow, and I could only find a few heads that could thread on all the way.


Wow, thanks for the detailed assessment gswitter. :thumbsup:

I have recently picked up an E1B, and can confirm the Extreme head works very well on it. Although the anodizing isn't the greatest match, I like the bi-directional clip and tailcap lockout feature of the E1B.

Haven't tried the E1B head on the Extreme body yet, since the light is undergoing low mode lightbox testing at the moment. But like you, I'm interested in using the Surefire body with the Extreme head. 

And note that although I haven't tried it yet, the E1B body internal diameter looks big enough to accommodate all protected RCRs ...


----------



## tanasit

One of the best and complete review I've seen. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
Many thanks,

Tanasit


----------



## Dead_Nuts

If anyone else has a caliper, could you tell me what the OD of your AW rechargeables is? Perhaps the ID of your Extreme as well?

If my batteries are of the older design, I could just buy some new ones that might fit.


----------



## selfbuilt

Dead_Nuts said:


> If anyone else has a caliper, could you tell me what the OD of your AW rechargeables is? Perhaps the ID of your Extreme as well?


Quick and dirty measurement:
AW blue-label: 16.9mm
AW black-label (1st gen): 16.7mm
AW black-label (recent): 16.6mm
Surefire primary: 16.5mm
Extreme internal diameter: 16.8mm

But of course, batteries and the tube could easily vary in diameter across their length (the above are just a quick measures around the center of the cells and the end of the tube). In any case, if you are finding primaries are a tight fit in yours, then any protected cell is likely to be a problem.

You might want to contact Edgetac or your dealer to see if they can do anything for you.


----------



## JKL

Thanks Selfbuilt,
a very nice review... for a nice flshlight




,


----------



## gswitter

I tried the Extreme head on a number of other E-series bodies tonight. The Extreme head has fit every E-series body I've tried to date, with full functionality. Bodies tried so far (using a single CR123A or RCR123 unless otherwise specified):
Surefire: E1e, E1B, E2e (w/AW 17670), L4 (w/AW 17670)
McLux 2x123 (w/AW 17670)
Aleph: CR2 (w/AW RCR2), 1x123, 1.5x123 (w/AW 17500), 2x123 (w/AW 17670)
McClicky Pak [EN & Ti]
Maxlite (w/AW 14500)
Vital Gear FB1
fivemega 18500 (w/AW 18500)
Leef 18650 (w/AW 18650)
Tranquility Base 18650 [Al] (w/AW 18650)
Mirage_Man 18650 (w/AW 18650) _-my favorite_
I was also curious if the Extreme head would work with 2xAA, and it appears to work fine with a pair of Eneloops in the following set-ups:
Vital Gear FB3
DSpeck UBH
Surefire E2e + Valiant Concepts E-Extendter
I also tried 3x Eneloops in the UBH + a 1xAA extension, and that worked fine as well. The three cells measured 3.93v at the time.

And finally, I tried various Arc LS bodies using a Valiant Concepts ARC-E adapter: CR2 twisty (w/AW RCR2), 123 clicky, 2xAA clicky (w/2x Eneloop), 2xAA twisty (w/2x Eneloop). The clickies worked fine. The twisties initially only worked on the low setting, but after some fiddling, they worked fine as well. _I really like the feel of this 2xAA clicky set-up._

*Note: *I did run into one problem. The reverse polarity protection in the Extreme head is a little too deep for the button tops on most of the AW Li-ions I tried. The only AW cell that didn't require a small magnet was the RCR2.


----------



## VF1Jskull1

gswitter said:


> I received my Extreme (from hkequiptment) in the mail yesterday. The only reason I was interested in this light was the E-series legoability, and here are some findings...
> 
> The Extreme head fits and has full functionality on every E-series compatible body I tried: E1e, E2e, E1B, McClicky Pak, Maxlite, etc. I didn't try it on a Leef E-head body (I only have a 2x18650, and I didn't have time to dig out a dummy cell), but I hope to try that tonight.
> 
> The Extreme head / Mirage_Man 18650 body / McTC combo doesn't look half bad. It's a little long - longer than an L4, but shorter than an L2 - but it's not an uncomfortable size.
> 
> The Extreme body is only _somewhat_ compatible with E-series heads. The inner diameter is too narrow, and I could only find a few heads that could thread on all the way. The big o-ring is not the issue - the inner diameter of the Extreme body is a tight 16mm instead of the ~17mm of most E-series bodies. I found no E-series Surefire head that would thread on - KL1, KL4 and E1B head were no-go. An E2C adapter and C-series heads were no problem. McLux & Aleph heads with Lux/SSC cans generally fit, but the Cree can is too wide.
> 
> I'm not wild about the Extreme body (especially the switch), and I wasn't planning to use it anyway, so it doesn't really bother me that it won't work with other E-series heads. I like the head (especially the wider-than-NDI reflector), and compatibility with existing Surefire and aftermarket bodies is a nice plus.



did yours flicker on high mode for momentary on operation... mine will flicker slightly starting with a lower and high brightness and then seem to ramp up to full brightness if i keep it slightly depressed. several times it will just be full bright with no flickers at all.


----------



## selfbuilt

EDIT: Just completed the Min output mode runtimes, and my results seem a little low. EDGETAC is confirming at their end, and will advise me if they think the issue is with my sample or with the production circuit in general. I'll update this thread once I hear back. Stay tuned!

On a more positive note, I've just confirmed that not only does my Extreme work perfectly on my Surefire E1B Backup body (all functions intact), but the E1B head also works perfectly on the Extreme body (i.e. two-mode functioning intact).


----------



## TOTC

Those are interesting (and indeed somewhat disappointing) results for the low runtime test.

Thanks to this review, BTW, I placed an order for one with PhotonGears. It shipped last Tuesday so I'm really hoping it shows up soon. Waiting always kills me :mecry:

(comments edited slightly to avoid thread-drift from the review)


----------



## VF1Jskull1

is there a way to get an extra switch?? i ordered mine from hkequipment and it came without spare switches or o-rings.... just a holster and a energizer e2 lithium cell.


----------



## selfbuilt

VF1Jskull1 said:


> is there a way to get an extra switch?? i ordered mine from hkequipment and it came without spare switches or o-rings.... just a holster and a energizer e2 lithium cell.


That's odd - did you look underneath the foam padding insulation in the box? Otherwise, you would need to contact hkequipment or edgetac directly.

My Extreme can show a slight flicker on initial depress of the switch - the same behaviour has been observed on the NDI. A firmer momentary press and hold of the switch (or click to lock-on) doesn't show any problems though - it's only with a slight depress. If this is what you are seeing, it's normal for the light (and would also be present with a replacement switch).


----------



## VF1Jskull1

selfbuilt said:


> That's odd - did you look underneath the foam padding insulation in the box? Otherwise, you would need to contact hkequipment or edgetac directly.
> 
> My Extreme can show a slight flicker on initial depress of the switch - the same behaviour has been observed on the NDI. A firmer momentary press and hold of the switch (or click to lock-on) doesn't show any problems though - it's only with a slight depress. If this is what you are seeing, it's normal for the light (and would also be present with a replacement switch).



Thanks for the reply selfbuilt.

I took the light apart and re-lubed all threads and applied deoxit gold to the contacts, and it flickers a lot less now. I'm still thinking it's the way the switch mechanism completes the circuit while depressing for momentary on, that is causing it to flicker.... my 2D Mag (w/ ROP mod), wolfeyes incandescents (2 of them), and streamlight tl-3 incan all have forward clickies that don't flicker. oh well... i'll suck it up and live with it....


----------



## Tohuwabohu

I got my NiteCore Extreme today. There is just one tiny detail I can add to the excellent review: the PWM frequency is 38kHz. I can't think of any circumstance where it could be visible.


----------



## VF1Jskull1

thanks again selfbuilt,

i looked underneath the bottom padding and there it was, the spares baggie, manual, and id card... silly me, i'm just like a kid who is too eager to open his toy and doesn't examine the remaining contents of the box... funny i used to be anal about such. The included ultrafire brand holster doesn't fit too well... a little too tight for the extreme... makes it hard for removing the light.

so i took the light apart to lube the switch retainer threads and lo' and behold found that the retainer ring is a tad smaller than the tube itself.... what i mean is, by just installing the ring without the switch, boot, and washer, the ring will have some play between the mating threads still.... i found this out when trying to tighten down the ring to hold the boot in but it would reach a certain tightness after a few turns and then go loose if i exceeded that point... almost like cross threading or something. 

removed everything and examined the female thread and no sign of cross threading.. so i decided maybe it will go in farther if i shave the base/flange of the boot (brim of the hat) so it'll be thinner and allow more threads to mate... it still didn't work... the shaving wasn't the best despite using a fresh clean razor blade... ended up ruining the boot cause it would be pulled out to easily by pulling a corner... 

with everything out, i threaded the retainer ring all the way in until it couldn't go no further, then stuck my pinky through the ring could move the ring around with a noticeable play between the threads... i wonder if it suppose to have this much play?? how is it suppose to keep water out if it doesn't seal properly?

the washer (holding down the switch) is typical zinc plated stuff you could actually find in the screws & bolt hardware isle of orchards supply... they could have used stainless steel washer...

the light works fine as is with the retainer ring just tight and right before it breaks loose again but feel i have a handicapped light that can't be submerged....

i was gonna try some teflon tape to see if it'll tighten up but could not for the life of me find the spool of teflon anywhere in the apartment last night, so i'll have get some today to try.


----------



## Nake

Well, I don't feel like an orphan now. My light is the same way. Contact Edgetac about the problem. I am awaiting a new body from them. I'll bet there will be more lights with this problem surfacing. That ring has to withstand pressure from the front and rear springs. It should have very close to blueprint specs. 

I wrapped teflon tape on the ring for a temporary fix.


----------



## VF1Jskull1

Nake said:


> Well, I don't feel like an orphan now. My light is the same way. Contact Edgetac about the problem. I am awaiting a new body from them. I'll bet there will be more lights with this problem surfacing. That ring has to withstand pressure from the front and rear springs. It should have very close to blueprint specs.
> 
> I wrapped teflon tape on the ring for a temporary fix.



which route did you use to contact them with??
what if i purchased mine through hkequipment, will edgetac be able to help?


----------



## Nake

VF1Jskull1 said:


> which route did you use to contact them with??
> what if i purchased mine through hkequipment, will edgetac be able to help?


 
Contact them at [email protected] I bought from Scope and Laser and Edgetac knew that, no problem.


----------



## FireStik

For those of you who have had problems with flickering or irregular output when depressing the switch, you might try Deoxit Gold. My Raidfire Spear got so bad that I could hear arcing when I slowly pressed the switch, and last week my Infinity started with the same nonsense. So, just like my Spear, I pulled the switch out, applied a generous amount of Deoxit Gold to the plastic plunger, and worked it into the crack where the plunger enters the switch body. After a dozen or so clicks, the switch sounded better and now regardless of how slowly I activate the momentary-on function it's either on or off.....the light output is perfectly steady. :thumbsup:


----------



## VF1Jskull1

^^

i've applied generous amounts to the brass areas and to the switch spring and gold etching of the switch circuit board... i've yet got to try that... thanks for the tip...


----------



## Nake

*Update on thread issue.*

I got my replacement body from Edgetac today. Here's what I observed. It was not the retaining ring that was small, but the ID of the body threads that were too large. The new retaining ring was sloppy in the original body, while the original ring fit the new body fine. 

The battery hole on the new body is tight. Neither blue or black protected AWs will fit. A protected silver Ultrafire I have will fit, and unprotected cells are no problem. The original body will take any cell. Oh well.


----------



## VF1Jskull1

Nake said:


> *Update on thread issue.*
> 
> I got my replacement body from Edgetac today. Here's what I observed. It was not the retaining ring that was small, but the ID of the body threads that were too large. The new retaining ring was sloppy in the original body, while the original ring fit the new body fine.
> 
> The battery hole on the new body is tight. Neither blue or black protected AWs will fit. A protected silver Ultrafire I have will fit, and unprotected cells are no problem. The original body will take any cell. Oh well.



i'll do some test fitting when mine arrives....


----------



## EDGETAC

VF1Jskull1 said:


> which route did you use to contact them with??
> what if i purchased mine through hkequipment, will edgetac be able to help?


 

Hello,

Please refer to your PM, we have sent you message, thanks!


Best Regards,
EDGE TAC


----------



## octaf

I had mine for about a month.

There's one thing I don't like about this light.

Hi-burst mode is fine,

But the beam is very shaky and blinky, at the variable mode.

I don't know if it's just mine, but I tryed many different things to stablize it, but not working.

I let it go, now.

Waiting for the new PD style smarty one...


----------



## EDGETAC

octaf said:


> I had mine for about a month.
> 
> There's one thing I don't like about this light.
> 
> Hi-burst mode is fine,
> 
> But the beam is very shaky and blinky, at the variable mode.
> 
> I don't know if it's just mine, but I tryed many different things to stablize it, but not working.
> 
> I let it go, now.
> 
> Waiting for the new PD style smarty one...


 

Hi octaf,

 Any issues with the light, please do not hesitate to contact local dealer / distributor, also, you can always contact us! 


Best Regards,
EDGE TAC


----------



## VF1Jskull1

octaf said:


> I had mine for about a month.
> 
> There's one thing I don't like about this light.
> 
> Hi-burst mode is fine,
> 
> But the beam is very shaky and blinky, at the variable mode.
> 
> I don't know if it's just mine, but I tryed many different things to stablize it, but not working.
> 
> I let it go, now.
> 
> Waiting for the new PD style smarty one...


did you get a chance to try applying some deoxit and deoxit pro gold to the contact points? 

I applied some deoxit pro gold to the brass surfaces of the head and to the gold contacts on the switch end and mine doesn't flicker like when i first received it.


----------



## gt5oh

Ive been lurking the forums as a guest trying to find out which flash light is right for me.

Im looking for something reliable for an every day carry that is absolutely blindingly bright. My buddy has a Surefire E1B backup, so thats the only light I have seen in person that I can compare things to.

How does this Nitecore Extreme compare to the E1B in brightness and size?

I am less worried about low light runtime and the type of battery/rechargeable etc.. and am more focused on amazing output in a small pocket size form.. Thanks


----------



## Thujone

gt5oh said:


> How does this Nitecore Extreme compare to the E1B in brightness and size?




Brighter, larger. Similar build quality in my opinion.


----------



## phantom23

They're similar in size, Extreme is significantly brighter. Throw is similar as well but Nitecore has one useful thing - spill! Nice and bright.


----------



## selfbuilt

gt5oh said:


> How does this Nitecore Extreme compare to the E1B in brightness and size?


I see a few others have already responded, but you'll find a direct comparison between the two in my new round-up review here:

1xCR123A/RCR Round-up Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, & more! 

As you'll see, peak throw is about the same, but the Extreme puts out a lot more light. If you follow the lumen conversion for my lightbox in post #2, you'll see the Extreme puts out about 40-50% more light overall, depending on the battery. In practice, this means a much brighter spill for the same throw.


----------



## I came to the light...

Quick question about the beam pattern - is the triangular pattern visible when using the light to walk around? Thanks.


----------



## Phaserburn

I came to the light... said:


> Quick question about the beam pattern - is the triangular pattern visible when using the light to walk around? Thanks.


 
No, not at all to me.


----------



## I came to the light...

Phaserburn said:


> No, not at all to me.


 
thanks for the reply


----------



## selfbuilt

Phaserburn said:


> No, not at all to me.


Agreed, not really noticeable at regular distances - it's only up close when white wall hunting


----------



## I came to the light...

selfbuilt said:


> Agreed, not really noticeable at regular distances - it's only up close when white wall hunting


 
Ok, thanks. 

I wish the extreme was a little smaller. If it was a centimeter shorter I'd jump on it right now. As it is, it's a tough choice...


----------



## Sig Sauer

You have been talking about different bezels for the extreme. The SS bezel and another one. What are the differences between them and where can you order them?


----------



## Kilovolt

Sig Sauer said:


> You have been talking about different bezels for the extreme. The SS bezel and another one. What are the differences between them and where can you order them?


 
The Extreme is available with a bezel with the same surface treatment of the rest of the light (I have this one) or with a stainless steel ring. You can find pics of both solutions in this CPFM thread.

As to where you can buy them there is a list of dealers in the first post of the said thread.


----------



## Nake

Kilovolt said:


> The Extreme is available with a bezel with the same surface treatment of the rest of the light (I have this one) or with a stainless steel ring. You can find pics of both solutions in this CPFM thread.


 
There are now, two SS bezels available.

https://www.fenix-store.com/index.php?cPath=93


----------



## Sig Sauer

What is different between them except the look?


----------



## Thujone

Sig Sauer said:


> What is different between them except the look?



Also feel. :laughing:


----------



## VF1Jskull1

UPDATE:

New Extreme body from Edgetac came in yesterday. The new stainless steel switch retainer ring threads in and out a lot smoother and does "lock"/tighten in place now and doesn't have the excess radial play of the previous grey retainer ring.... now i feel confident it'll survive being submerged... oh yea, one more thing, the clip was mounted closer to the body now so i didn't have to remove it to tweak it like i did the previous body. Overall the new body was a big improvement to the first one. A big thanks to Edgetac and their superb support of their products. The body came wrapped in multiple layers of bubble wrap by the way... IMHO, i think the new ss retainer ring goes well with the non-crenelated ss bezel i have on mines.... 

I'm now itching to get the Nitecore EX10.... I like the look and like the idea of the piston drive....


----------



## Kilovolt

Sig Sauer said:


> What is different between them except the look?


 
With just 11 bucks more you will be able to poke holes in your pockets with stainless steel crenelations instead of the usual aluminum ones....:naughty:


----------



## Sig Sauer

Whats the address for Edgetac homepage. Can't seem to find it.


----------



## Kilovolt

It's currently off but this is the address: http://www.nitecore.com/pages.html

Yesterday it was working.


----------



## Sig Sauer

I just want it confirmed that I have understood this right. About the different output lvls.

To adjust the output lvl you turn the bezel around?
If you turn the light off at, lets say, half the strenght. The next time I use it, it will come on at half strenght?

Is there another way to pan the output lvl, like holding down the clickie or something?


----------



## selfbuilt

Sig Sauer said:


> To adjust the output lvl you turn the bezel around?


Yes, but as a twist cycle. So, twist fully tight then un-twist slightly, all within 0.5 sec. That will start the ramp. Click the switch to select the desired output level.



> If you turn the light off at, lets say, half the strenght. The next time I use it, it will come on at half strenght?


Yes



> Is there another way to pan the output lvl, like holding down the clickie or something?


No. The new EX10 will ramp by the piston switch (and not through the head twist). I don't have mine in hand yet to review, but max output is known to be lower on the EX10.


----------



## combatative31

Have just purchased a fenix tk11 from fenix store cant wait for it to arrive. Does any one now how this would compare to the nitecore extreme?


----------



## 4sevens

combatative31 said:


> Have just purchased a fenix tk11 from fenix store cant wait for it to arrive. Does any one now how this would compare to the nitecore extreme?


The TK11 is brighter and has a longer runtime. The extreme is smaller (1cell) 
and SF E-series compatible.


----------



## phantom23

Cree rings are more visible in TK11 because of smooth reflector (NEI has OP).


----------



## Daark

EDGETAC said:


> Hello,
> 
> Please refer to your PM, we have sent you message, thanks!
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> EDGE TAC


 
Hi there..EDGE TAC 

Is all this problems what i have to expect, when my new NiteCore Extreme will arrive later?? :green: Please explain why? 
It seems like this light have to much defective parts. I don't believe it's ready for sale yet? :thinking:

EDIT: PLEASE answer on this forum. (Don't send PM to me) :candle:


----------



## RGB_LED

Selfbuilt, once again, a fantastic review. You have no idea how many lights (esp. 1AA and 1CR123) you have convinced me to purchase... The NiteCore Extreme is another one! I read that it was compatible with the SF E-series from 4sevens but I was a little hesitant due to price but, after reading your review, I think I'm convinced that this should be part of my collection.

I thank you again... although any of my future children may curse you since they won't have too much in their college funds...  (just kidding of course :naughty. 

Great review and keep up the good work! :twothumbs


----------



## EDGETAC

Daark said:


> Hi there..EDGE TAC
> 
> Is all this problems what i have to expect, when my new NiteCore Extreme will arrive later?? :green: Please explain why?
> It seems like this light have to much defective parts. I don't believe it's ready for sale yet? :thinking:
> 
> EDIT: PLEASE answer on this forum. (Don't send PM to me) :candle:


 

Dear Daark,

Thanks! No PM to you then. 

I guess you quote our reply to VF1Jskull1, right?

The issue with him is that the retaining ring is a little too loose in Extreme tailcap. Please be advised that we only got 2 feedback about this issue, it's not common issue at all (this is also the reason why we PM to resolve the issue instead of replying directly, since it's not a common issue for users.




guess you understand), the other one is ChenQing, who sent email to us. We check and found out the reason to this issue, it's the HA III processing which make the threads of the retaining ring slimer, so it could not be well matched with the body. We had sent VF1Jskull1 a new body to solve this issue, also one to ChenQing. 

After finding out this issue, we had changed the material to use Stainless steel to make the retaining ring, since SS need no HA III processing, so there is no such potential issues available now. i.e., please rest assure that the Extreme you are going to get is with no such issue. and even if there is any issues come up with your light, we as well as 4sevens will be able to guarantee a satisfying warranty serivce to you whenever needed.





Hope the above answers your inquiries, and if any further questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to let us know, thank you!


Best Regards,
NiteCore


----------



## MojoLight

Well, since the moderator thought my original post for this request should be in the review of this light and not on the main board, then I'll ask for it here.

I'm hoping for some "real life" beamshots showing the hotspot at a distance. Trying to determine throw.

Any help appreciated.


----------



## eyeeatingfish

I have to wonder about this light. It looks a lot like the surefire E1B, and 200 lumens off only one rcr123? That seems like a lot, but maybe im just not on top of current capabilities. Does it get real hot?
I know the E1B has a lens and basically just throws real well with little flood and is rather bright for a light claiming only 80 lumens but I would be interested in seeing a comparrison between the two. 

I just got my lumapower incendio a while ago and I loved the little light.... that is till i read this review! I know the incendio has the advantage of size and weight but why settle for 130 lumens when i could get near 200? I know the incendio has better runtime, but not amazingly better... DOH! I upgraded from the LM33 to the Incendio so it would better fit on my keychain and i know the extreme would be a bit large on my keychain but danget I want one! Why couldnt your review just say the incendio was the best?!


----------



## selfbuilt

MojoLight said:


> I'm hoping for some "real life" beamshots showing the hotspot at a distance. Trying to determine throw.


Sorry, no exterior shots yet. But the Extreme is quite throwy among this class of light. Not as sharp a hotspot as the E1B, but roughly similar peak reach.



eyeeatingfish said:


> Does it get real hot?
> I know the E1B has a lens and basically just throws real well with little flood and is rather bright for a light claiming only 80 lumens but I would be interested in seeing a comparrison between the two.


Already done: 1xCR123A/RCR round up review

And yes, the Extreme does get hot - though not quite as fast as my Jet-II IBS models.


----------



## kindred_spirits

Anybody try the Extreme head on a Vital Gear FB-1?


----------



## TOTC

kindred_spirits said:


> Anybody try the Extreme head on a Vital Gear FB-1?


I am going to try it as soon as my FB-1 arrives in the mail 
I am currently running it on an FB-2 when I want to carry it in that size, or on the stock body when I want to shrink it back down (depending on dress).

I'm pumped to try it on the FB-1 though...


----------



## tazambo

My Extreme is on it's way from 4sevens.
I'm having trouble waiting.

Thanks for the excellent review.

Regards
Dave


----------



## kindred_spirits

What cell are you using with the FB-2? The Extreme can't handle 2 CR/RCR's, correct?



TOTC said:


> I am going to try it as soon as my FB-1 arrives in the mail
> I am currently running it on an FB-2 when I want to carry it in that size, or on the stock body when I want to shrink it back down (depending on dress).
> 
> I'm pumped to try it on the FB-1 though...


----------



## selfbuilt

kindred_spirits said:


> What cell are you using with the FB-2? The Extreme can't handle 2 CR/RCR's, correct?


Correct, but it should be able to handle any of the single cell Li-ions (e.g 18650, 17670, 14670, etc.).


----------



## TOTC

kindred_spirits said:


> What cell are you using with the FB-2? The Extreme can't handle 2 CR/RCR's, correct?





selfbuilt said:


> Correct, but it should be able to handle any of the single cell Li-ions (e.g 18650, 17670, 14670, etc.).


Yep, I'm using an AW 17670


----------



## Daark

EDGETAC said:


> Dear Daark,
> 
> Thanks! No PM to you then.
> 
> I guess you quote our reply to VF1Jskull1, right?
> 
> The issue with him is that the retaining ring is a little too loose in Extreme tailcap. Please be advised that we only got 2 feedback about this issue, it's not common issue at all (this is also the reason why we PM to resolve the issue instead of replying directly, since it's not a common issue for users.
> 
> 
> 
> guess you understand), the other one is ChenQing, who sent email to us. We check and found out the reason to this issue, it's the HA III processing which make the threads of the retaining ring slimer, so it could not be well matched with the body. We had sent VF1Jskull1 a new body to solve this issue, also one to ChenQing.
> 
> After finding out this issue, we had changed the material to use Stainless steel to make the retaining ring, since SS need no HA III processing, so there is no such potential issues available now. i.e., please rest assure that the Extreme you are going to get is with no such issue. and even if there is any issues come up with your light, we as well as 4sevens will be able to guarantee a satisfying warranty serivce to you whenever needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope the above answers your inquiries, and if any further questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to let us know, thank you!
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> NiteCore


 
Hi *EDGETAC,*

My new NiteCore Extreme has arrived today from Fenix-Store, Very nice little light. I looks like very good quality. Only one bad thing: It is "hair and dust" inside the reflector? I hate dirty reflectors. And it's not possible to take apart and clean up inside? because i can't loose the bezel?


----------



## EDGETAC

Daark said:


> Hi,
> 
> My new NiteCore Extreme has arrived today from Fenix-Store, Very nice little light. I looks like very good quality. Only one bad thing: It is "hair and dust" inside the reflector? I hate dirty reflectors. And it's not possible to take apart and clean up inside? because i can't loose the bezel?


 

Hi Daark,

Thanks!
Sorry for this issue!
You may use pressured air to blow the dust away, but if the bezel could not be loosened, we suggest that you replace it from our distributor, which should be more convenient for you, sorry for the trouble. 


Best Regards,
NiteCore


----------



## Daark

EDGETAC said:


> Hi Daark,
> 
> Thanks!
> Sorry for this issue!
> You may use pressured air to blow the dust away, but if the bezel could not be loosened, we suggest that you replace it from our distributor, which should be more convenient for you, sorry for the trouble.
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> NiteCore


 

*EDGETAC*

*Yes, this your mistake have given me big trouble. And if i shall return the NE to Fenix-Store..then it would cost me more then the light it selfe. **I live on the other side on earth, in a very expensive country.*

*I can only guess how much the postage cost would be back to the US. (To much)*

*I also wonder why it's "hair and dust" in a NEW light?? :thinking:*

*You have one new PM.*


----------



## Daark

octaf said:


> I had mine for about a month.
> 
> There's one thing I don't like about this light.
> 
> Hi-burst mode is fine,
> 
> But the beam is very shaky and blinky, at the variable mode.
> 
> I don't know if it's just mine, but I tryed many different things to stablize it, but not working.
> 
> I let it go, now.
> 
> Waiting for the new PD style smarty one...


 

Mine NE have exatly the same problems, shaky and blinky beam in variable mode.


----------



## 4sevens

Daark said:


> Mine NE have exatly the same problems, shaky and blinky beam in variable mode.


Daark, did you contact our customer service department?
There is no problem we cannot solve. Please email us at [email protected]


----------



## Daark

4sevens said:


> Daark, did you contact our customer service department?
> There is no problem we cannot solve. Please email us at [email protected]


 
You already know the problems with the light, here is the order nb from your store.
*Order #41548 (Shipped)*Order Date: Sunday 06 July, 2008

EDIT: Here is a new problem with the same light, the half backside of the reflector jump out..when i'm trying to change batteries?? :shakehead I have trying to pusch it back, but it's not possible? because it's obliquely.

EDGETAC..you have a new PM.


----------



## Rat6P

Thanks heaps for the great review......it twisted my arm to finally get one.
What a great light! (thanks to fenix-store!!!!!!!!)
I love the beam....great spot but still plenty of spill.
With this and my 85P I think ive got things covered for a while.


----------



## Eye of Unk

My NEX arrived yesterday, its smaller than I thought but it definitely puts out light! I had it in a lower mode once, several times in SOS which was very hard to get out of and it looks like it will have to stay in the high tactical mode because i cannot get it to ramp down at all, I will still use my trusty SF L1 for low light and the NEX for when I need bright light, it was a promising design but fell short of getting an Olympic medal.


----------



## selfbuilt

Eye of Unk said:


> My NEX arrived yesterday, its smaller than I thought but it definitely puts out light! I had it in a lower mode once, several times in SOS which was very hard to get out of and it looks like it will have to stay in the high tactical mode because i cannot get it to ramp down at all, I will still use my trusty SF L1 for low light and the NEX for when I need bright light, it was a promising design but fell short of getting an Olympic medal.


It seems a waste to not be taking advantage of the low modes of the NEX. Your issue is most likely switching speed - you need to tighten/loosen quickly from user defined mode to get it to ramp. This can be a bit tricky at first (due to the thick o-ring installed), but once you get the hand of it you shouldn't have a problem. Same thing if you are having problems getting out of strobe mode - the switch from loosen/tighten needs to be done quickly to get back to Max mode. Good luck!


----------



## TOTC

I would agree it sounds like a switching speed issue. You gotta twist that puppy fast for it to respond :thumbsup:

SOS mode? Is that a new development or just a feature I never found on mine?

Mine has High, Strobe, and User Defined brightness... no SOS that I know of.

Selfbuilt,

Have you worked out the low-mode runtimes with NiteCore? The last update I see to the runtime post is the June 17 edit where you were talking to NC about the issue.


----------



## selfbuilt

TOTC said:


> SOS mode? Is that a new development or just a feature I never found on mine?


Oops, sorry - slip of the keyboard . I meant strobe, there is no SOS mode (text fixed). 



> Have you worked out the low-mode runtimes with NiteCore?


I've been meaning to get back to that, but have been tied up with new reviews lately (too many new lights coming in, too little time). I do plan to update this review and a few others with additional low mode results, but it will need to wait a bit longer.


----------



## Eye of Unk

I stand corrected, I think its a strobe as well, I tinkered with it some more today, I lubed the o ring with some silicone grease but again it only and by luck got into a low mode. If only there was an easier way to do that it would be a formidable flashlight, I would like to get a natural color titanium bezel for in, smooth not crenelated because I wear carhart jeans that have a side pocket perfect for an EDC in the width of this light, I carried a SF L1 for years that way but the crenelated bezel after awhile makes a hole.


----------



## Eye of Unk

I have been using this light all week, never could get anything other than full brightness and strobe, I may put it up on my shelf of miscellaneous lights I have built over the years, its just too bright for most work I am doing.

there must be a real problem with it.

BTW just how do you get to "User Mode" the instructions were pretty but uninformative.


----------



## selfbuilt

Eye of Unk said:


> BTW just how do you get to "User Mode" the instructions were pretty but uninformative.


Simply loosen the head a quarter turn and you are in user defined mode. From there, do a very rapid switch (i.e. tighten fully and then loosen, all within 1sec) and the light will ramp either up or down. If you don't see it ramp, you are either not switching fast enough or not tightening all the way. To get it to ramp in the reverse direction, just do another switch cycle.


----------



## Kilovolt

selfbuilt said:


> Simply loosen the head a quarter turn and you are in user defined mode. From there, do a very rapid switch (i.e. tighten fully and then loosen, all within 1sec) and the light will ramp either up or down. If you don't see it ramp, you are either not switching fast enough or not tightening all the way. To get it to ramp in the reverse direction, just do another switch cycle.


 
And when you have reached the level you like simply switch off the light to memorize it. So every time you unscrew the head your Extreme will go to the chosen level until you perform again the setting operation. The memorized level is maintained even if you take out the battery.


----------



## Nake

When I first received mine it was hard to turn it quickly to set the user mode. Removing the o-ring made it much easier. After setting the level I wanted, I replaced the o-ring.


----------



## tsask

I had the same issues with my Extreme. Fortunately my fellow C.P.F.ers helped me out. You twist the bezel then rapidly untwist. I actually got a RMA for that issue but didn't need to return it for that reason. I did return it because the O ring at bezel was messy and protruded into reflector area.
I'm waiting on my return light.


----------



## dmonay

RGB_LED said:


> Selfbuilt, once again, a fantastic review. You have no idea how many lights (esp. 1AA and 1CR123) you have convinced me to purchase...
> 
> The NiteCore Extreme is another one! I read that it was compatible with the SF E-series from 4sevens but ...
> 
> Great review and keep up the good work! :twothumbs



----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Is that SUREFIRE- E - Series or FENIX- E - Series .... from 4Sevens ??

Does 4 Sevens sell SureFire flashlights ? :thinking:


----------



## selfbuilt

dmonay said:


> Is that SUREFIRE- E - Series or FENIX- E - Series .... from 4Sevens ?? Does 4 Sevens sell SureFire flashlights ? :thinking:


The NiteCore Extreme head is compatible with Surefire E-series bodies. There are several threads about this in the main LED forum. 4Sevens doesn't sell Surefires (AFAIK), but he was one of the first to announce this compatibility when the Extreme came out. 

FYI, although the Extreme head hit fits well on the Surefire bodies, the Extreme body is not always compatible with all Surefire E-series heads. Seems the variances on the body tube of the Extreme can be a bit tight.


----------



## dmonay

Thanks selfbuilt for the info, will look for these posts. I've been doing a lot of reading and not much posting, trying to get up to speed on SureFire and NiteCore. These will be my next two flashlight purchases.
Either the SureFire E1B or the E2DL lights. And either the NiteCore Extreme or the D-10 AA.


----------



## The Sun

can someone reply to me with the first letters of their NEX S/N im trying to figure out the S/N's Mines NCEXBUS is that the same on everyones?:twothumbs


----------



## Kilovolt

Mine is *ZNCEXBFR* and I got it from Neolumen in France. So apparently 'NCEX' means NiteCore Extreme and 'US' or 'FR' the country of the dealer.


----------



## Nake

Where is this S/N? I can't find one on mine.

I found it....on the warranty card. Mine is ZNCEXBHK 00126

I bought it from Scope & Laser, I guess in Hong Kong.


----------



## Kilovolt

These are the references of my four NiteCore's:

- NDI from the initial batch: *ZNDIA1209*
*- *NEX from Neolumen France: *ZNCEXBFR*
- EX10 from 4sevens: *NCEX10BUS*
*-* D10 from Neolumen France: *NCD10BFR*

Except for the NDI of the first batch (12/09/2007?) there's always *NC *for NiteCore and the model. A letter that can be an *A* or a *B *(1st or 2nd production batch?) followed by the country of the dealer (US, FR, HK, etc.). The initial *Z* appears only in some cases. :thinking:

Any other thoughts?


----------



## The Sun

thanks a lot!!! my curiosity was getting the best of me, but that was what i was looking for. mine came with the stainless retainer ring so i was trying to find out what part of the s/n was the batch number. exactally the response i was looking for. mine obviously lacks the "Z," i wonder what thats for? thanks!!! oh yeah and i love the light bye the way, and all thanks to selfbuilt and his rad review!!!:twothumbs


----------



## The Sun

does anyone have any good waterproof-ish-ness details on the NEC, i.e. ran in water, diving, bathtub, etc. is it good to 66ft.? or has no one found out? thanks!!!


----------



## FireStik

The Sun said:


> does anyone have any good waterproof-ish-ness details on the NEC, i.e. ran in water, diving, bathtub, etc. is it good to 66ft.? or has no one found out? thanks!!!


Took mine to Myrtle Beach a few days ago and it failed the waterproof test miserably. Salt water soak for approximately 10 minutes, maybe 12" deep. The head was tight the entire time and I turned it on 2-3 times. When I came out the light was flickering so I dried it off and opened it up. Water penetrated into the body and switch.

I removed the switch (the threaded ring was very tight), rinsed everything in tap water, dried it out overnight and relubed. Works fine but I'm not at all confident in its ability to keep water out.


----------



## Art Vandelay

FireStik said:


> Took mine to Myrtle Beach a few days ago and it failed the waterproof test miserably. Salt water soak for approximately 10 minutes, maybe 12" deep. The head was tight the entire time and I turned it on 2-3 times. When I came out the light was flickering so I dried it off and opened it up. Water penetrated into the body and switch.
> 
> I removed the switch (the threaded ring was very tight), rinsed everything in tap water, dried it out overnight and relubed. Works fine but I'm not at all confident in its ability to keep water out.


I don't think it's designed to be turned off and on underwater.


----------



## The Sun

Art Vandelay said:


> I don't think it's designed to be turned off and on underwater.


 
i agree, i think the ipx-8 standard is is for static use on OR off, but i'm not sure. and, the manufacturer is supposed to specify the depth at which it will fail, but edgetac doesn't list the spec. i know this has been discussed previously in the thread but i didn't see any testing by CPFer's. that would be pretty disapointing if its "ipx-8 waterproof" to two inches :shakehead. i love everything else about it, but its gotta be reliable after gettin in the water. thats what "waterproof" means. "static" would be fine with me. i'm not going diving with the light, but if i'm in the woods and i drop it in the river, pond, lake, rainpuddle, etc. i would hope in a survival situation i wouldn't have to lose a day/night (time) drying the thing out. anyway, thanks for the info!!!:thumbsup:


----------



## pobox1475

Where is best place to order one from in US?


----------



## TOTC

pobox1475 said:


> Where is best place to order one from in US?


https://www.4sevens.com/


----------



## FireStik

Art Vandelay said:


> I don't think it's designed to be turned off and on underwater.


 I can see your logic now, but my first thought was that if a switch is fully enclosed within an IPX-8 enclosure, I would expect it to function properly. I guess maybe the suction created when releasing the switch is just too much for it.

I sent a PM to Edgetac. I'll update when I get an answer.


----------



## gt5oh

this was my first LED light purchase and i love the light

it really is tiny and is perfect for every day carry. the light is very bright and has great throw with decent spill. i love the small form factor and the thin spike bezel on the end.

ive been using the (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.8683) protected trustfire 3.6v rechargeable batteries and they work good. just a tip if you buy them, the plastic coating on the outside of the batteries are pretty thick and prevent the metal contact inside from reaching the battery. Take a sharp knife and peel off the plastic that wraps around on both the positive and negative sides of the battery, this will ensure good contact. you can leave the plastic on the sides as it does not interfere


----------



## The Sun

selfbuilt:

have you recieved a reply from Edgetac yet on the low mode runtime? thanks!!!:twothumbs

FireStik:

how about you with the water issue? thanks!!!:twothumbs


----------



## FireStik

The Sun said:


> FireStik:
> 
> how about you with the water issue? thanks!!!:twothumbs


 Edgetac/Nitecore is sending replacement parts, but I'm still waiting on an answer as to whether or not we're ok to cycle power while submerged. I sent a reminder (& rephrased teh question) an hour ago, so hopefully I'll get an answer soon.

Edgetac reported having some problems logging into CPF also.


----------



## selfbuilt

The Sun said:


> selfbuilt:
> have you recieved a reply from Edgetac yet on the low mode runtime? thanks!!!:twothumbs


Edgetac is aware of the issue (i.e. my initial runtimes on the lowest level of my Extreme sample were a lot less than Edgetac got on their demo circuit) - but they aren't sure if it's a problem with my one unit or a more general problem in the Extreme programing. Their engineers were supposedly looking into it, but they have apparently been busy with all the new lights that have come out recently. I'm told they are working on a V2 of the Extreme, and plan to send me one to compare when its ready (I don't have any details about what has changed, or an ETA, so please don't ask ).


----------



## FireStik

Ok, got an answer from Edgetac regarding the waterproof characteristics of the Extreme. She said: "Yes, the light should be able to be turned on/off under water".


----------



## lightofdarkness

*NiteCore Extreme -Very Hot Issue-*

I was testing runtimes on my new NiteCore Extreme, but after 15 minutes I decided to stop because it was getting *REALLY HOT*, Is this normal? Can the light be damaged if I had kept it on longer? I would really appreciate any answer I can get, Thanks!


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: NiteCore Extreme -Very Hot Issue-*



lightofdarkness said:


> I was testing runtimes on my new NiteCore Extreme, but after 15 minutes I decided to stop because it was getting *REALLY HOT*, Is this normal? Can the light be damaged if I had kept it on longer? I would really appreciate any answer I can get, Thanks!


Left on their own, all lights get really hot at high output settings. The aluminum heatsinks are designed to help pull heat from the emitter. Normally, flashlights are carried by hand, and your body's circulatory system is used to help dissipate that heat (sort of the reverse of what you body does normally - dispersing extra internal heat through your skin, by its close contact with your circulatory system). If left alone running at high output, the flashlight will get very hot to the touch after a few minutes.

Presumably, this is not too good for the flashlight for extended periods - but it should be able to handle it for short bouts. To remove this variability, I do all my runtimes under a cooling fan. Note however that this will lead to slightly different runtime patterns (e.g. battery chemistries work a bit differently at different temperatures). There really is no definite answer to your question (just as there is no "right" way to do runtimes). If you plan to keep the light for actual use, I would recommend some form of active or passive cooling.


----------



## lightofdarkness

*NiteCore Extreme -Very Hot Issue-*

Thank you *Selfbuilt* for your Very Explained Answer. Next time I do that I'll use a fan.


----------



## 4Pigs

EDGETAC said:


> Dear Daark,
> 
> Thanks! No PM to you then.
> 
> I guess you quote our reply to VF1Jskull1, right?
> 
> The issue with him is that the retaining ring is a little too loose in Extreme tailcap. Please be advised that we only got 2 feedback about this issue, it's not common issue at all (this is also the reason why we PM to resolve the issue instead of replying directly, since it's not a common issue for users.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> guess you understand), the other one is ChenQing, who sent email to us. We check and found out the reason to this issue, it's the HA III processing which make the threads of the retaining ring slimer, so it could not be well matched with the body. We had sent VF1Jskull1 a new body to solve this issue, also one to ChenQing.
> 
> After finding out this issue, we had changed the material to use Stainless steel to make the retaining ring, since SS need no HA III processing, so there is no such potential issues available now. i.e., please rest assure that the Extreme you are going to get is with no such issue. and even if there is any issues come up with your light, we as well as 4sevens will be able to guarantee a satisfying warranty serivce to you whenever needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope the above answers your inquiries, and if any further questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to let us know, thank you!
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> NiteCore



Hello EdgeTac,

After reading the review in another thread regarding the EX10, I bought 3 of your lights in one week (and going to get 2 more D10 for parents). The EX10 and D10 are great lights, however, I have the same retaining ring problem on my extreme.....what can I do now? Send the whole light back or take it back to the local dealer (HK)?

Thanks for your time.


----------



## Jackyl

That's really disappointing, especially that we haven't heard back from them on these issues.


----------



## selfbuilt

EngrPaul said:


> While putting it back together, I found a shameful lack of water sealing. There is no seal between the lens and the front bezel. There *is* two think gasket rings, one between the reflector and the lens, and one between the reflector and the head. But these won't stop the water from entering past the lens and into the head. :shrug:





4Pigs said:


> Hello EdgeTac,.....what can I do now? Send the whole light back or take it back to the local dealer (HK)?


Sorry to hear that the waterproofness and retaining ring fit continue to be issues, I had expected those to be resolved by now.

FYI 4Pigs, you may want to contact Edgetac directly - this thread is nearly 5 months old, and I doubt they check it very regularly. You'll find their e-mail in one of their sales threads in CPFMP.


----------



## [email protected]

Hey guys,

we just heard back from Nitecore regarding your findings. 

1. They use less glue on the heads of the lights so that the modders out there can choose to upgrade the LED in the light if they see fit. Since they saw this thread, they are making a change in the amount of glue in the head holding the bezel on.

2. with all things that are mass produced, it is possible for a failure to occur. If that does happen, we will honor the warranty, no questions asked. 

-Matt


----------



## EngrPaul

*Update: Please jump to THIS post for updated information regarding waterproofing. An expressed lack of waterproofing was my inaccurate assumption! *



FireStik said:


> Took mine to Myrtle Beach a few days ago and it failed the waterproof test miserably.


 
I just received mine. By accident, I turned the bezel instead of the whole head to install a battery, and the bezel came off, releasing the whole reflector assembly and everything! :sigh:

While putting it back together, I found a shameful lack of water sealing. There is no seal between the lens and the front bezel. There *is* two think gasket rings, one between the reflector and the lens, and one between the reflector and the head. But these won't stop the water from entering past the lens and into the head. :shrug:

Secondly, there is no o-ring between the bezel and the head. There is a groove, but no rubber o-ring at all. :thumbsdow

FWIW, I found one that would do the job, and installed it when reassembling. 

Third, the o-ring between head and the tail is only engaged when the light is nearly turned down to the high position. When turned back to low too far, there is no o-ring engagement. :shrug:

I didn't bother checking the water tightness of the tail switch. Why bother? The rest of the light fails to have adequate waterproofing. I wouldn't even carry this light in the rain.


----------



## NoFair

EngrPaul said:


> I just received mine. By accident, I turned the bezel instead of the whole head to install a battery, and the bezel came off, releasing the whole reflector assembly and everything! :sigh:
> 
> While putting it back together, I found a shameful lack of water sealing. There is no seal between the lens and the front bezel. There *is* two think gasket rings, one between the reflector and the lens, and one between the reflector and the head. But these won't stop the water from entering past the lens and into the head. :shrug:
> 
> Secondly, there is no o-ring between the bezel and the head. There is a groove, but no rubber o-ring at all. :thumbsdow
> 
> FWIW, I found one that would do the job, and installed it when reassembling.
> 
> Third, the o-ring between head and the tail is only engaged when the light is nearly turned down to the high position. When turned back to low too far, there is no o-ring engagement. :shrug:
> 
> I didn't bother checking the water tightness of the tail switch. Why bother? The rest of the light fails to have adequate waterproofing. I wouldn't even carry this light in the rain.


 
Nice to know, thanks for reporting it.

That is one of the strange things about many lights; 95% great and then some glaring oversights... :thinking: :shakehead

Would you mind contacting them about it? Just in case this was a production error. 

They have also been good at fixing their mistakes in later batches.

Sverre


----------



## EngrPaul

*Update: Please jump to **THIS** post for updated information regarding waterproofing. An expressed lack of waterproofing was my inaccurate assumption! *

It might be more educational to verify with another member who has one and opened the head.

There was a tiny amount of tan crumbly stuff that fell out of the threads. I think they tried to pot it, but there wasn't much there. Evidently that's why mine opened.

If they tell me it's defective and I send it back for repair, I'll probably get another one without the o-ring I added.

Potting doesn't make a good water seal, does it? Especially when there's only a dab.


----------



## EngrPaul

So far, I like the beam and output levels. 

I've removed the high viscosity grease they put on the threads + ring and put Krytox on the o-ring instead. Deoxit gold on the threads. Turns much smoother.

Even so, if I don't turn back quickly, the light still goes into strobe before reaching the lower level. Then when I go back to high, I get strobe instead. Gotta be fast!


----------



## Hitthespot

EngrPaul said:


> I just received mine. By accident, I turned the bezel instead of the whole head to install a battery, and the bezel came off, releasing the whole reflector assembly and everything! :sigh:
> 
> While putting it back together, I found a shameful lack of water sealing. There is no seal between the lens and the front bezel. There *is* two think gasket rings, one between the reflector and the lens, and one between the reflector and the head. But these won't stop the water from entering past the lens and into the head. :shrug:
> 
> Secondly, there is no o-ring between the bezel and the head. There is a groove, but no rubber o-ring at all. :thumbsdow
> 
> FWIW, I found one that would do the job, and installed it when reassembling.
> 
> Third, the o-ring between head and the tail is only engaged when the light is nearly turned down to the high position. When turned back to low too far, there is no o-ring engagement. :shrug:
> 
> I didn't bother checking the water tightness of the tail switch. Why bother? The rest of the light fails to have adequate waterproofing. I wouldn't even carry this light in the rain.


 
Well that just stopped me from buying one. I was just about ready to pull the trigger. I think I will opt for the PD20 instead. I cannot live with a light that I could be using in snow (hunting) and in the rain (hiking ) or for fishing that is not sufficiently water resistant. This was my biggest complaint on the T4-MP.

Thanks Paul and FireStik,

Bill


----------



## Jackyl

Same here, I bought a JetBeam instead.


----------



## EngrPaul

I didn't mean to sway anybody from the light, but if I was able to give you information you could use, I'm glad. The lights you mention are good choices.


----------



## Hitthespot

EngrPaul said:


> I didn't mean to sway anybody from the light, but if I was able to give you information you could use, I'm glad.


 
That's Why We Are All Here My Friend! :thumbsup: Hope I can do the same for you.

Thanks Again,

Bill


----------



## pobox1475

> The lights you mention are good choices.


 Is one any better than the other? I have been looking forward to an Extreme, but now I have severe second thoughts. Currently I EDC a Lumapower ConneXion and now want a more powerful light to supplement it when I know a torch will be needed. Do not want a significantly larger one though.


----------



## Jackyl

We compared a new Extreme with a PD30 yesterday and the NiteCore looked horribly blue in comparison. Maybe we just got a "bad" one.


----------



## foxtrot29

I just got my NEX in the mail, been playing with it this morning. I am very pleased. Man this thing is friggin bright! Operates smoothly, clicky feels very good -- there is no flicker when pressing for momentary as with my NDI. Passes the splash proof test without issue (clicking on off while running under the tap). 

There's just always a dud or two sent out I guess. Either way, I'm sure nitecore will take care of those of you who got duds.


----------



## 4Pigs

selfbuilt said:


> Sorry to hear that the waterproofness and retaining ring fit continue to be issues, I had expected those to be resolved by now.
> 
> FYI 4Pigs, you may want to contact Edgetac directly - this thread is nearly 5 months old, and I doubt they check it very regularly. You'll find their e-mail in one of their sales threads in CPFMP.



I've got a replacement from local dealer and happy with it


----------



## EngrPaul

*Re: Waterproofness*

*After seeing that the potential waterproofness of this light is causing people to not buy this very nice light, I decided to disassemble it again and further evaluate the waterproofing abilities. I'm glad I did, because my opinion has changed. I feel that there is adequate protection from water ingress, as long as the head of the flashlight is within a turn of being fully engaged with the tail.*

*Here is a picture of the head disassembled:*
*




*

*On closer inspection, you will see there is no o-ring between the bezel and the lens. You will also notice the head does not have an o-ring installed where the bezel turns onto it. These yellow circles show conventional locations for waterproofing, so I improperly assumed the light is not waterproof at the lens/bezel.*






*



*

*If you study these pictures, you will notice there is a thin translucent gasket (silicone?) in two places. One goes between the glass and the reflector. The other goes between the reflector and the front of the head. When the bezel is installed (red arrows in picture above), it compresses these gaskets to provide a watertight seal two places. Therefore, although water can get in the region between the bezel and the head, it cannot go further into the light. It is sealed so that water cannot get into the inside of the reflector, and it is also sealed so that water cannot get behind the reflector.*

*



*

*The biggest "risk" of waterproofness is unscrewing the head from the tail too far. The gasket at the top of the tail is only engaged fully on the last turn or so of the head. Therefore, a careful practice of only twisting as much as necessary to go into low mode, and stopping there, will help retain the light's waterproofness.*

*



*

*My sincerest apologies to NiteCore and retailers for my inaccurate assumptions in an earlier post. *

*This light has a very effective water proofing design, it just works a little different than expected. *

*This light gets two thumbs up from me, It is an excellent product :twothumbs*


----------



## 4sevens

*Re: Waterproofness*

EngrPaul - apologies accepted. You have a rare unit that has a loose head.
Most bezel can't be opened because they're sealed in with loctite.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Waterproofness*



4sevens said:


> EngrPaul - apologies accepted. You have a rare unit that has a loose head.
> Most bezel can't be opened because they're sealed in with loctite.


Confirmed with mine - I had tried to verify Paul's original concern with waterproofness, but have been unable to open the bezel. Note that mine is one of the first production runs (which obviously had a good amount of loctite). 

Thanks for posting the detailed pics here Paul - it's actually the first time I've seen the inside the head unit. Looks like Edgetac designed it with care. :thumbsup:

And agreed above twisting the head from the body - only the mildest of turns is necessary to go into low/user defined, so there's need to loosen to the point of risking waterproofness.


----------



## Hitthespot

Great. Now can we have someone place it in 6-12 inches of water for around 15-30 minutes just to make me happy?

Bill


----------



## NoFair

Very nice of you to check further EngrPaul!

Looks a bit odd, but if it works I'm fine with it

Sverre


----------



## Jackyl

Hitthespot said:


> Great. Now can we have someone place it in 6-12 inches of water for around 15-30 minutes just to make me happy?
> 
> Bill



Exactly...this would finally sell me on it. I see the min. runtimes still pending...waiting on a replacement unit or?


----------



## selfbuilt

Jackyl said:


> Exactly...this would finally sell me on it. I see the min. runtimes still pending...waiting on a replacement unit or?


Yes, Edgetac was supposed to send me a revised unit to test. Low output level seems a bit high on my original Extreme sample. Not sure what the replacement status is - and honestly, I've been too busy with other lights ever since to follow up much. I'm currently in the middle of testing the NiteCore D20, and will query this issue with them again when I share my results of my testing of that light.

Anyone else with a currently shipping Extreme want to do a few low mode runtimes?


----------



## Jackyl

Are the current units supposedly "revised" now? What's this about an Extreme V2?


----------



## Jackyl

Tossed a co-worker's NEX in 4" of water on "low" mode for 15 min. Even turned off / on under water. All good.

http://photobucket.com/NiteCoreNEX


----------



## FireStik

FireStik said:


> Edgetac/Nitecore is sending replacement parts, but I'm still waiting on an answer as to whether or not we're ok to cycle power while submerged. I sent a reminder (& rephrased teh question) an hour ago, so hopefully I'll get an answer soon.
> 
> Edgetac reported having some problems logging into CPF also.


Just as an FYI here, the "updated" replacement parts that I received from Edgetac looked exactly like the originals. I never did figure out why mine failed, but despite that it's still my EDC of choice because of the brightness level and ultra-cool look.

I just won't be taking mine swimming in salt water anymore...


----------



## kavvika

Engrpaul, can you unscrew the pill from the reflector and take a picture of the pill from the LED side? I want to see how easy it is to replace the emitter, and whether or not it's sitting on a mini round board. I just don't like tint WC at all, and that's the *only* thing keeping me from buying this light. If it's easy to swap out, I might go ahead and sell my E1L to buy this light.


----------



## selfbuilt

Jackyl said:


> Are the current units supposedly "revised" now? What's this about an Extreme V2?


Good question, I don't know. Edgetac had mentioned to me that a V2 was in the works, but I don't have any more info than that. I'll ask next time I'm in contact with them.


----------



## Jackyl

Please do, I need an EDC sized light before deer season.


----------



## EngrPaul

Jackyl said:


> Tossed a co-worker's NEX in 4" of water on "low" mode for 15 min. Even turned off / on under water. All good.
> 
> http://photobucket.com/NiteCoreNEX


 
Thank your coworker. I hope that wasn't his good Devo hat?


----------



## Jackyl

LOL!!!


----------



## Jackyl

Here's what NiteCore had to say about a "V2":

"Dear AR,

Thanks for your email.

No, there is no V2 Extreme for the moment. 

If any further questions, please let us know, thanks!


Best Regards,
Y.L.Wong"

Sounds like it may be in the works...wish I could have gotten a timeframe.


----------



## ExtremeNEX

EngrPaul said:


> Thank your coworker. I hope that wasn't his good Devo hat?


You're welcome, I really didn't have a choice, the toilet or the bowl.


----------



## Jackyl

I'm $91 poorer.


----------



## Jackyl

I'm glad you clarified the waterproofing issue...I love this thing. Took the clip off, closed the gap in lock washers, and reinstalled the washers / screws with loctite. The screws don't split the washers without the clip and it works as anti-roll. Slims it down some too.


----------



## 4sevens

Jackyl said:


> I'm glad you clarified the waterproofing issue...I love this thing. Took the clip off, closed the gap in lock washers, and reinstalled the washers / screws with loctite. The screws don't split the washers without the clip and it works as anti-roll. Slims it down some too.


Awesome! Glad you like it! I still think this is NiteCore's classic work of art.
It's not like anything out there. The only similarities is to surefire's E-series -
the parts are compatible 

We are low on the limited run models with stainless steel. When they're gone.
They're gone


----------



## Jackyl

I had to have a crenelated SS one. It's perfect...not too "sharp" or too deep. I don't see it being a problem with pocket wear, but I don't EDC either. The SS bezel is nicely machined / polished...flawless. Well worth the added cost for the bling factor alone.  I don't notice the beam pattern effected at all unless right up to a wall.

Before I stated that my buddies NEX was quite blue against a PD30, but we decided it was the dual coating. I set mine to the lowest setting and you can see a distinct blue in the reflector...pretty cool really, and I don't find it to be that blue. In fact, I think my M60 is more blue than this.

I didn't like the brightness interface at first, but that was on my buddies dry / uncleaned NEX, and before I realized there was a 1/2 sec. delay. Now I see the head only needs to be loosened a small fraction of a twist. It hasn't left my pocket since I opened it this evening. Best of all, I have lots of PRC made Batt. Station CR's to "waste" playing.


----------



## Axion

Guess we've figured out what V2 will be. GD+ Extremes are now on sale at 4sevens.com Personally, my Cree Extreme has a pretty smooth beam so I would not choose to loose any brightness for a slightly nicer beam.


----------



## Jackyl

Think they've been testing the waters for the GP+ emitters on their whole product line. I don't think that's what they had in mind for a V2.


----------



## gopurple

Great Review selfbuilt, did you ever get an answer for low runtime on Min output mode using primaries? I'm almost ready to pull the trigger but wanted to wait for that answer.


----------



## EngrPaul

Looking forward to a review of the GDP version. I was waiting for it to arrive, but broke down and bought a Cree. I really like it's beam and output. It will be interesting if the Osram emitter can keep up!


----------



## selfbuilt

gopurple said:


> Great Review selfbuilt, did you ever get an answer for low runtime on Min output mode using primaries? I'm almost ready to pull the trigger but wanted to wait for that answer.


This has turned into a rather complicated issue, and one that goes far beyond Edgetac and this one light.

Based on my abnormally low runtimes on my one Extreme sample, Edgetac has performed additional tests at their end. It appears to be an issue of Vf variability - Edgetac believes I have a sample with very low Vf, causing it to run at higher drive currents (and therefore depleting the battery faster). Although they could "cherry-pick" a high Vf light to send me to test, they don't believe that would be fair or objective - a position I strongly agree with.

As a result, Edgetac has been looking to develop a revised circuit less susceptible to Vf variation - this would have been the V2 that has been discussed here. Unfortunately, they have been unable to do so to date, and so their V2 plans are on hold right now.

Note that this problem is not specific to Edgetac - I've had discussions with other makers that reveal they are struggling with the same issue. Even from my own limited perspective, I'm seeing variability in runtime reports on the order of > 3-fold for some lights on low settings - and those outputs are nowhere near as low as the ones these new lights can make it down to.

To be fair, I think this problem has caught most of the makers by surprise. They often base their initial runtime estimates on a limited number of engineering samples (or even worse, calculated projections). It seems they (like I) have only recently become aware of the huge effect Vf variability is causing at these low outputs. Previously, this effect was often negligible at higher outputs, but we are now seeing some really extreme low outputs coming out - and Vf variability is wrecking havoc on runtimes. 

The dilemna (for them and me) is how to report runtimes at this level given the variability. :thinking: I'm starting to advise makers to do actual tests with extreme Vf values, so that they can at least give the variability range. What my instincts tell me is that we should be bracing ourselves to see variation on the order of days-to-weeks (i.e. variation of 1 day to 1 week runtime? 4 days to one month? who knows!)

Until this gets clarified, I'm going to refrain from really low mode output tests. I'm afraid that testing one sample of unknown Vf could heavily skew perceptions (for good or ill). Worse, it could encourage less scrupulous makers to "cherry-pick" lights to send to reviewers - something I'm glad to see Edgetac has refrained from.

*My best advice for consumers right now is to simply assume wide variability will be present on *all*lights with really low outputs - and treat with skepticism any maker's runtime claim unless they confirm a specific Vf bin.*

Longer-term, I hope this drives makers to start using defined Vf bins just as they now typically do with defined output bins, and occasionally tint bins. But realize that will also likely drive up prices and reduce availability. 

Frankly, at present I don't think there is an easy solution to this dilemna, except to simply acknowledge its existence. :candle:


----------



## gopurple

Thanks Selfbulit, now knowing the limitation of the test will you be able to let us know what run time you got on your light? Just as a data point. If you don't want to publish it, can you send me a PM ?

Thanks
Steve


----------



## Art Vandelay

I'd like to have the runtime information, perhaps with an statement that the that runtime may be subject to what used to be called the Luxeon lottery.

The more people who publish these runtimes, the more we can get an idea of the variation and range of runtimes for the same lights. Unlike measuring lux at one meter, a runtime test can be performed without any special equipment. Flashlight manufacturers can't send a ringer to everybody, and they don't always know which lights are going to be reviewed.

Thanks for another great review.
:twothumbs


----------



## selfbuilt

Art Vandelay said:


> I'd like to have the runtime information, perhaps with an statement that the that runtime may be subject to what used to be called the Luxeon lottery ... The more people who publish these runtimes, the more we can get an idea of the variation and range of runtimes for the same lights.


I agree entirely with your reasoning ... the only problem is that in the nearly 6 months that this particular light has been out, I can't recall seeing a single Min mode runtime presented anywhere.  Has anyone seen actual independent runtime data for this light?

In general terms, this situation is compounded by how long it would take to do these low runtimes, and how un-motivated everyone is after an initial report comes out. Once someone else has done it, it seems like no else wants to bother. After all, who wants to tie up their light for days (or even a weeks?), just to confirm someone else's finding? Although it would be very useful if everyone did, I just don't see that happening ... and I think one solitary runtime is just too misleading for these cases.

So, can we get a bunch of members here all do CR123A and RCR runtimes on their Extremes to compare?


----------



## Art Vandelay

selfbuilt said:


> I agree entirely with your reasoning ... the only problem is that in the nearly 6 months that this particular light has been out, I can't recall seeing a single Min mode runtime presented anywhere.  Has anyone seen actual independent runtime data for this light?
> 
> In general terms, this situation is compounded by how long it would take to do these low runtimes, and how un-motivated everyone is after an initial report comes out. Once someone else has done it, it seems like no else wants to bother. After all, who wants to tie up their light for days (or even a weeks?), just to confirm someone else's finding? Although it would be very useful if everyone did, I just don't see that happening ... and I think one solitary runtime is just too misleading for these cases.
> 
> So, can we get a bunch of members here all do CR123A and RCR runtimes on their Extremes to compare?




You are right, I have not seen any independent confirmation of the claimed 60 hours on min. I have seen people re-post the manufacturer's claimed runtime. Normally, I would be more skeptical, but Nitecore has credibility. Nitecore's claim of 100 plus hours for the D10 and E10 was recently confirmed by Chevrofreak.

I respect your judgment on whether or not to release the runtime. If more people were willing to do a super long runtime test, one outlier would not make as much of a difference.


----------



## Lightraven

I just bought an Extreme based on your roundup reviews, and so far, I'm pleased with the new light. I actually use it for law enforcement as it is advertised.

I personally hestitated to buy the Extreme over the waterproof issue. It wasn't a deal breaker, but I have taken lights underwater on some occasions, so it wasn't an idle concern, either.

But this new issue is interesting in writing any review--of anything--that being the variability within a model. Not all the same model cars get the same mileage, hence "your mileage may vary"--YMMV. Even with flashlights, I guess that's true.

I have been reading the book, The Black Swan, about this issue--ultra high variation and outliers in science, finance, history and life. Confirmation bias comes in for a whipping, as it should. Test enough lights for low runtime and you will have useful information, but quite possibly the only way for an owner to know his low mode runtime is to test his own light--assuming that low runtimes are relatively consistent in the same physical flashlight. Somebody testing their Extreme for high variability data (as Selfbuilt says low runtimes are) may tell me nothing of value about my Extreme. Like he says, he could get a week and I might get a day. That's way too divergent to bother using as buying criteria or base usage around.


----------



## selfbuilt

Lightraven said:


> assuming that low runtimes are relatively consistent in the same physical flashlight.


A good point. FYI, all indications from my testing suggest that an individual light is remarkably consistent in its performance, including at low modes.

I do periodic re-tests of runtimes on the same and different batteries, to confirm that my individual batteries are still holding up well. It's also a way to insure no drift in my light sensor placement or efficiency (permanent mount, but I like to do periodic checks).


----------



## nanotech17

just received mine very nice finish - i decided to use it on my E2L body so that i can long runtime with AW 1x17670.
And the lens is similiar to to that UCL blue coating.
Some photos,i hope selfbuilt don't mind,if you mind just tell me and i have them removed.



























nice warm tint and bright and solid,i had to remove the o-ring on the NE body in order to fit the KX2 head.
Overall feelings - better UI compare to Olight T20T (my 02 cents YMMV )


----------



## selfbuilt

nanotech17 said:


> just received mine very nice finish - i decided to use it on my E2L body so that i can long runtime with AW 1x17670.
> ... Some photos,i hope selfbuilt don't mind,if you mind just tell me and i have them removed.


No problem for the photos - thanks for adding them in fact!

I typically carry my Extreme head on my Surefire E1B backup body, since I like the tailcap lock-out feature and bi-direction clip.


----------



## Kamakazikev24

Hey there, Has anyone got the golden dragon one of these? Was going to get one with the SS bezel. And I wondered how the runtime and max brightness would compare with the Cree?
Also can you have the tactical mode set in strobe and then just turn the head to the user setting to go to a steady light level of your choice? Or does it just strobe in both modes when strobe is turned on?Thanks, Kam.


----------



## richardcpf

Kamakazikev24 said:


> Also can you have the tactical mode set in strobe and then just turn the head to the user setting to go to a steady light level of your choice? Or does it just strobe in both modes when strobe is turned on?Thanks, Kam.


 
You have 2 mode with the extreme:
Tactical: You can set the light to turn on with max brightness or strobe. 
User defined: You can set the brightness you want, no strobe mode in this one.

The modes are accessed by turning the head, and while in tactical mode just loose-tighten qickly to change and memorize mode.

Just got this light and it is awsome, very bright and good looking. Killed one of my cheap Kai RCR.


----------



## csshih

very informative review thanks for the further information on Vf.


----------



## AA6TZ

richardcpf said:


> Just got this light and it is awsome, very bright and good looking. Killed one of my cheap Kai RCR.


 
Gorgeous. Flat-out GORGEOUS!!!  
Congratulations, Richard.

-Clive


----------



## h2oflyer

Had mine(smooth SS bezel) since they came out 

Fit & finish is excellent - 180 lumens on primary - Real outdoor
thrower in your pocket - User adjustable low - BLINDING emergency
strobe

Bought mine based on Selfbilt's review

IMO most underated single 123 out there - Yeah there are newcomers
with higher output but don't have the build quality

I actually bought a spare because I like it so much :thumbsup:


----------



## h2oflyer

Kam 

You can go from Hi strobe to user low steady with slight untwist.

My wife sets it that way when she walks the dog at night.


----------



## pobox1475

Finally took the plunge and ordered a SS bezel from 4Sevens . Now I have to figure what charger to get along with some protected AW's. Should I clean the factory lube off the threads and apply NyoGel or just wait until it needs cleaning (is factory stuff any good?).



> Yeah there are newcomers
> with *higher output* but don't have the build quality


 Oooops, did I miss something?


----------



## D-Dog

I haven't seen any other with substantially higher output either, as a single CR123A or RCR123A can only be driven so hard. However, I too might have one of these end up under the tree this year (Will replace a Jil Intelli Lux III) and I'm worried it will be "very" outdated by the time I receive it. I can't see how this will be the case, however, I am worried over what 2 posts ^^meant 

Also, exactly how waterproof will the light stay if I lube the threads and am careful when I change modes because although I wouldn't dive with it, it might sit in water for a little while (very shallow) if I have to swim across something and it's my EDC.


----------



## Ty_Bower

Kamakazikev24 said:


> Hey there, Has anyone got the golden dragon one of these?



Same question here. I've searched this thread, but haven't seen much mention of the GDP. Any info would be much appreciated.


----------



## LightObsession

Thanks for the great review.


----------



## fareast

Hmmm, just lost my first post due to auto logging out....

Anyways I wanted to leave something interesting. I have not read this anywhere else so I registered to post. Pls be kind, this is my first post. 

Mr. Selfbuilt, after reading your truly amazing review I got myself an Extreme to replace my aging P1D-CE which now gets to retire to backup duty. :twothumbs. Very informative post about the low runtimes I must say! It does make me hope I have a good one. I also got myself a D-Mini SE (and two more as gifts) and am amazed at it's throw capacities. Back to the Extreme. After running down 3 primaries (new AW's are on the way since my old blue ones do not fit as you mentioned in your review) whilst playing with it I have noticed when it starts dropping out of regulation, the highest possible setting gets an ever so slightly greenish tint. All the levels it can support in regulation though are still a perfect slightly warm white. A very, very nice tint, practically free of rings (my d-mini is also very white but with more blue/pink and visible rings since it is a thrower and then the p1d slightly warm white with yellow tint and the rings of course). It keeps doing this tinting untill only the lowest level will stay free from this tinting. 

I like this a lot!!! I even consider it a hidden feature since it tells me exactly when I have to change cells. When ramping brightness, at the point where it drops in/out of regulation it flickers for a few miliseconds and depending on whether you are ramping down or up , it gives you the highest possible output with a slightly greenish tint ( I did not even notice this at first) and when ramping down, the greenish tint (after the flicker) dissappers altogether. The best way to notice this is by going from the highest level to the lowest without ramping. 

Somehow I regret my visit to CPF:twothumbs, for the past weeks I have been reading up and thinking about modding my very stock MagCharger. 

FarEast


----------



## selfbuilt

fareast said:


> whilst playing with it I have noticed when it starts dropping out of regulation, the highest possible setting gets an ever so slightly greenish tint. ... I like this a lot!!! I even consider it a hidden feature since it tells me exactly when I have to change cells.


Interesting observation - thanks for sharing. And :welcome:
I've noticed that that on some well-regulated lights, low freq PWM can also become visible as the light drops out of regulation. Unfortunately, I don't remember which lights I've noticed this on (don't think it was the Extreme). But it goes to show you that it's worth looking for those sorts of peculiarities.


----------



## fareast

:wave:


----------



## RayG

Thanks for the review. I have been interested in the extreme, but have been putting off picking one up due to some others' observations that it is just as bright (and some say less so) than the D10 on 14500. I got one for Christmas, and yes, your numbers were right - the NEX is significantly brighter. 

There really is something to be said about standardized, objective facts. From now on, reviews without these I will still enjoy, but take with a grain of salt.

More power  to ya!


----------



## tsask

I am so happy with my NiteCore Extreme (SS bezel). It rides on my side in an "HDS holster", perfect fit and always there! Although I also EDC a FenixP1D CE Q5 and L01 on my keys, my fist "go to" light is the Exteme because I don' have to pull anything out of my pocket or out of the car's ignition. I have it set to the lowest low, then twist it to high if needed or for "wow!" appeal!!!

Does anybody here know about about RCRs in the EX??
I am running on primary CR123 cells.


----------



## Nake

tsask said:


> Does anybody here know about about RCRs in the EX??


 
Black AWs fit if you take off the silver sticker. The older blue AWs are too tight as are the Ultrafire, etc. These are protected cells that I've mentioned. Unprotected cells seem to fit alright. 

This is with the tube I have. Someone mentioned that he had trouble with everything but CR123s, not sure if that included rechargeable unprotected cells.


----------



## pobox1475

> It rides on my side in an "HDS holster", perfect fit


 Can you post a pic?


----------



## RayG

tsask said:


> Does anybody here know about about RCRs in the EX??
> I am running on primary CR123 cells.



I have an AW IMR 16340 in it and it fits just fine.


----------



## AA6TZ

*FarEast* -- That's a pretty darned impressive _first_ post! :thumbsup: Thank you very much for sharing the info. :welcome: 
Best Regards,

-Clive


----------



## fareast

AA6TZ said:


> *FarEast* -- That's a pretty darned impressive _first_ post! :thumbsup: Thank you very much for sharing the info. :welcome:
> Best Regards,
> 
> -Clive




Thanks Clive! :wave:


----------



## AA6TZ

fareast said:


> Thanks Clive! :wave:


 
Anytime, *fareast*!!! :thumbsup:


----------



## tsask

pobox1475 said:


> Can you post a pic?


 
sorry, no however once you see it for yourself rest assured you wil be very satisfied with that "HDS type" holster. 
IIRC Lighthound has a good price on these.


----------



## Egsise

selfbuilt said:


> This has turned into a rather complicated issue, and one that goes far beyond Edgetac and this one light.
> 
> Based on my abnormally low runtimes on my one Extreme sample, Edgetac has performed additional tests at their end. It appears to be an issue of Vf variability - Edgetac believes I have a sample with very low Vf, causing it to run at higher drive currents (and therefore depleting the battery faster). Although they could "cherry-pick" a high Vf light to send me to test, they don't believe that would be fair or objective - a position I strongly agree with.
> 
> As a result, Edgetac has been looking to develop a revised circuit less susceptible to Vf variation - this would have been the V2 that has been discussed here. Unfortunately, they have been unable to do so to date, and so their V2 plans are on hold right now.
> 
> Note that this problem is not specific to Edgetac - I've had discussions with other makers that reveal they are struggling with the same issue. Even from my own limited perspective, I'm seeing variability in runtime reports on the order of > 3-fold for some lights on low settings - and those outputs are nowhere near as low as the ones these new lights can make it down to.
> 
> To be fair, I think this problem has caught most of the makers by surprise. They often base their initial runtime estimates on a limited number of engineering samples (or even worse, calculated projections). It seems they (like I) have only recently become aware of the huge effect Vf variability is causing at these low outputs. Previously, this effect was often negligible at higher outputs, but we are now seeing some really extreme low outputs coming out - and Vf variability is wrecking havoc on runtimes.
> 
> The dilemna (for them and me) is how to report runtimes at this level given the variability. :thinking: I'm starting to advise makers to do actual tests with extreme Vf values, so that they can at least give the variability range. What my instincts tell me is that we should be bracing ourselves to see variation on the order of days-to-weeks (i.e. variation of 1 day to 1 week runtime? 4 days to one month? who knows!)
> 
> Until this gets clarified, I'm going to refrain from really low mode output tests. I'm afraid that testing one sample of unknown Vf could heavily skew perceptions (for good or ill). Worse, it could encourage less scrupulous makers to "cherry-pick" lights to send to reviewers - something I'm glad to see Edgetac has refrained from.
> 
> *My best advice for consumers right now is to simply assume wide variability will be present on *all*lights with really low outputs - and treat with skepticism any maker's runtime claim unless they confirm a specific Vf bin.*
> 
> Longer-term, I hope this drives makers to start using defined Vf bins just as they now typically do with defined output bins, and occasionally tint bins. But realize that will also likely drive up prices and reduce availability.
> 
> Frankly, at present I don't think there is an easy solution to this dilemna, except to simply acknowledge its existence. :candle:


Finally i found a good answer to my LD10 runtime problem , thx selfbuilt!


----------



## fareast

VF1Jskull1 said:


> so i took the light apart to lube the switch retainer threads and lo' and behold found that the retainer ring is a tad smaller than the tube itself.... what i mean is, by just installing the ring without the switch, boot, and washer, the ring will have some play between the mating threads still.... i found this out when trying to tighten down the ring to hold the boot in but it would reach a certain tightness after a few turns and then go loose if i exceeded that point... almost like cross threading or something.
> 
> removed everything and examined the female thread and no sign of cross threading.. so i decided maybe it will go in farther if i shave the base/flange of the boot (brim of the hat) so it'll be thinner and allow more threads to mate... it still didn't work... the shaving wasn't the best despite using a fresh clean razor blade... ended up ruining the boot cause it would be pulled out to easily by pulling a corner...
> 
> with everything out, i threaded the retainer ring all the way in until it couldn't go no further, then stuck my pinky through the ring could move the ring around with a noticeable play between the threads... i wonder if it suppose to have this much play?? how is it suppose to keep water out if it doesn't seal properly?
> 
> the washer (holding down the switch) is typical zinc plated stuff you could actually find in the screws & bolt hardware isle of orchards supply... they could have used stainless steel washer...
> 
> the light works fine as is with the retainer ring just tight and right before it breaks loose again but feel i have a handicapped light that can't be submerged....
> 
> i was gonna try some teflon tape to see if it'll tighten up but could not for the life of me find the spool of teflon anywhere in the apartment last night, so i'll have get some today to try.



I had/have the same issue. I found out after dropping the light in the shower and noticed the switch popped loose. After re-tightening it I also noticed it would pop out if I tightened it as much as possible (after checking how much space is left over). A small/unfortunate fall will pop my switch retaining ring... 

I decided to put something in between the threads to prevent this. First up was paper: no good, it gets wet and then it will pop. Then aluminium foil: very nice fit and doesn't work well at all. The threads cut the foil into many many little pieces. MMmm, perhaps cling film/food wrap/the stretchy plastic stuff you cover leftover food with in the fridge will do. So in the end, I folded a small piece over and over until I got the preferred thickness and then cut it out. I laid it against the retaining ring (easy to do, it sticks...) and screwed back the retaining ring. you can't see the film at all and it is (I think) rock solid. Well not perse _rock_-solid but it has not popped out ever since. Yes, including bad drops sliding across the street...

Oh, concerning the waterproofness? I have showered and washed it many times since. Including all the on/off/selecting a level/dropping it again  and again... and I have no issues with it any more. 

I did recently contact Nitecore about this and they we're very quick to send me a different retaining ring to try and see if it made a difference. It arrived within 7 days (including a small gift) but unfortunately it was exactly the same size. 

Tough luck I guess and thanked them for the service however in my case, it doesn't really matter at all. How often will I exchange the switch during the lifetime of this light? Not that much.


----------



## Nake

fareast said:


> I did recently contact Nitecore about this and they we're very quick to send me a different retaining ring to try and see if it made a difference. It arrived within 7 days (including a small gift) but unfortunately it was exactly the same size.


 
I had the same problem when I got my light. It's not the ring. The ID of the threads in the body is too big. I told Nitecore about it and was sent a complete new body with ring and tail switch.


----------



## euroken

Nake said:


> I had the same problem when I got my light. It's not the ring. The ID of the threads in the body is too big. I told Nitecore about it and was sent a complete new body with ring and tail switch.


 
Nake, did you happen measure the tailend ID of the body? Just for comparisons sake. Thanks.


----------



## Nake

euroken said:


> Nake, did you happen measure the tailend ID of the body? Just for comparisons sake. Thanks.


 
I just measured them. The sloppy one is 18mm and the replacement is 17.5mm. That's the opening where the boot comes out. I have no way of measuring the thread ID. I did take the ring from the replacement body, when I received it, and put it in the original and it was sloppy. That's how I came to the conclusion it was the body.


----------



## VF1Jskull1

the body's threading was the problem... the new body and stainless steel ring (silver color anyway) i recieved worked so much better.


----------



## euroken

Thanks Nake. I measured mine with a caliper and it is 17.2 mm ID. OD of the retaining ring is 17.4 mm. It seems loose at first while screwing it in but once it engages the rubber cap it is really snug tight. 18 mm definitely seems too big.


----------



## fareast

Nake said:


> I had the same problem when I got my light. It's not the ring. The ID of the threads in the body is too big. I told Nitecore about it and was sent a complete new body with ring and tail switch.




I never even thought it could be the body itself... Well at least it's good to know if I ever get tired of the cling film, I can always contact them again about this issue. Thanks for the post!


----------



## pulstar

Hi guys!

From today now on, i'm a proud owner of nitecore extreme r2 But i have a few questions: When i press the button to full click and then depress it, there's a slightly difference in output between pressed and depressed button position in high mode. It can be seen only 1m from white wall and you must payin' attencion to it. Is that normal? And another thing: When i ramp it down or up, i can notice a light flickerring(well, light doesn't go off/on it just, well....strobing a bit) while output is reaching it's lowest values. Looks like the frequency slows down....Is that a possible issue or normal thing? and another one: What products do you guys use for cleaning and maintaining electrical contacts of your lights? I don't need brand names, what"chemistry" is in that bottles? 

Thanks for possible replies....


----------



## sardian

pulstar said:


> Hi guys!
> 
> From today now on, i'm a proud owner of nitecore extreme r2 But i have a few questions: When i press the button to full click and then depress it, there's a slightly difference in output between pressed and depressed button position in high mode. It can be seen only 1m from white wall and you must payin' attencion to it. Is that normal? And another thing: When i ramp it down or up, i can notice a light flickerring(well, light doesn't go off/on it just, well....strobing a bit) while output is reaching it's lowest values. Looks like the frequency slows down....Is that a possible issue or normal thing? and another one: What products do you guys use for cleaning and maintaining electrical contacts of your lights? I don't need brand names, what"chemistry" is in that bottles?
> 
> Thanks for possible replies....


 

I notice a different output on mine too (just got it a couple of days ago and mine is an R2 version). When I fully click the button and then release it the output gets ever so slightly brighter. I too can only see it on a white wall. So I would guess it's normal.

As far as the flickering. I have seen mine blink when ramping but only a couple of times and it doesn't seem to be a problem. Just a quick on/off blink while ramping, mine did it on the high side of the ramp.

I really like the light and I can't believe how bright it is and how far it throws for such a small light. I now have 3 NiteCores (Extreme, D10, EX10) and so far I'm pleased with all of them.


----------



## pobox1475

I've got the SS bezel version with what ever Cree emitter was current before the R2. Been working flawlessly with no flicker or other issues since November.


----------



## randomlugia

Selfbuilt, how would you compare the NDI and EXTREME? I can't decide which to get. The extreme is brighter, but I like the shape, beam pattern, and color of the NDI better. Is the difference in brightness really that noticable?


----------



## selfbuilt

randomlugia said:


> Selfbuilt, how would you compare the NDI and EXTREME? I can't decide which to get. The extreme is brighter, but I like the shape, beam pattern, and color of the NDI better. Is the difference in brightness really that noticable?


Hard to compare, since very different beam patterns (the Extreme is brighter with more throw - but ringier and potentially triangular with standard bezel). I would say it would depend on how you plan to use it and with what battery. The NDI/D10 has been my most common EDC, but I've used the Extreme when travelling to remote locales where I've wanted more output and throw. :shrug:


----------



## Phaserburn

randomlugia said:


> Selfbuilt, how would you compare the NDI and EXTREME? I can't decide which to get. The extreme is brighter, but I like the shape, beam pattern, and color of the NDI better. Is the difference in brightness really that noticable?


 
If you like the beam pattern of the NDI, get that. The extreme is brighter, but on a dark night outdoors (or even indoors), you won't notice too much unless you're comparing them side by side. I have both. The NDI also has better runtime. What will you be using this light for?


----------



## pobox1475

My NEX without the crenelated bezel does not exhibit any pronounced rings.


----------



## NoFair

pobox1475 said:


> My NEX without the crenelated bezel does not exhibit any pronounced rings.


 
Mine also has a very nice beam. As good as my NDI with Q3 5A and better then my stock EX10. 

It also has very good runtime on a Surefire E2L body

Sverre


----------



## pobox1475

I want a new light, (especially a Ra) but can not justify because my AW protected / NEX combo just plain works


----------



## NoFair

One nice thing with the NEX is that soda bottle caps fit perfectly and give you diffusers, red, blue, green, yellow and orange filters for free. 

Probably fits best on the smooth SS bezels (like mine:nana, but should work with all of them.


----------



## VF1Jskull1

NoFair said:


> One nice thing with the NEX is that soda bottle caps fit perfectly and give you diffusers, red, blue, green, yellow and orange filters for free.
> 
> Probably fits best on the smooth SS bezels (like mine:nana, but should work with all of them.



i have 2 different water bottle caps for 2 different diffusion patterns. i too have non-crenelated ss bezel.


----------



## pobox1475

If I wasn't looking for enough stuff, now I gotta go bottle cap hunting :lolsign: .....


----------



## NoFair

pobox1475 said:


> If I wasn't looking for enough stuff, now I gotta go bottle cap hunting :lolsign: .....


:twothumbs :laughing: 

PS! got some spare o-rings and gaskets from NiteCore today:thumbsup: Great CS and very fast shipping. 

Sverre


----------



## pobox1475

My light has really _grown_ on me. I EDC it *clipped* to my front pocket. The clip was too loose at first until I got the idea to use the supplied wrench to remove it, reattach 180 degrees rotated and then bend slightly. I do not see myself selecting an EDC light without a clip going forward. The fact that it is bright, durable and efficient is _the icing on the cake_ .


----------



## mayo

Had my NEX for about 3 weeks now. Just can't say enough about how much I like. For me it is the perfect light. I been on here a couple of years buying lights and finding out what I like and don't like. I'm a process server and this one fits the bill. Throw, modes, size, battery, knurling, clicky hight, reflector size vs. bezel size, runtimes, mode selection, did I mention throw and size? Love it.


----------



## Pwallwin

I just received one of these today. Very cool, I really like it. 

BUT, the clicky is very loud and because of momentary on, it is hard to click in. Can someone confirm that they're all like that?


----------



## pobox1475

Just grabbed my unused back-up and it does not have a loud clicky. It clicks but is not overly stiff. Compared to one I carried and found no difference.


----------



## fareast

it depends on the clicky. the yellow ones are a bit easier to click than the later black ones. I used to have all black ones in my NEX's but got tired and switched to the "easier" (yellow) clickies. But then again, I am not using the original clicky switch cover. Mine are taller. Momentary is a lot easier this way.


----------



## Pwallwin

Thanks a lot for the help guys, I will swap it over with the 'spares' clicky and tailcap, and see if that makes a difference.

Cheers!


----------



## Pwallwin

I've swapped the clickies and rubber boot switches, but now I can't get the steel cap thingy screwed back in! What tool do you recommend using?

It was OK taking it out, I just used pressre with a broken tipped knife, but I need to apply a lot of pressure to get it screwed back.


----------



## fareast

Pwallwin said:


> I've swapped the clickies and rubber boot switches, but now I can't get the steel cap thingy screwed back in! What tool do you recommend using?
> 
> It was OK taking it out, I just used pressure with a broken tipped knife, but I need to apply a lot of pressure to get it screwed back.




I used to use a pair of needle-nose pliers but lately I have had an easier time with a pair of SS tweezers. Push down (when possible) when you turn with small increments. Don't over-tighten, it's hard to loosen.


----------



## Dobbler

Has anyone tried SureFire F series filters on the NEX? I'm wondering if they would fit very well...


----------



## Pwallwin

Cheers fareast!


----------



## Pwallwin

I used a pair of needlenose pliers whilst in work today.

It's definately not supposed to be this hard - it's not moving anymore.

There's still 2 threads visible so it needs to go down that far.

Is there supposed to be an o-ring below the rubber tailcap?


----------



## Nake

Do you have the battery in the light while you're doing this? The sequence is switch, washer, (plastic or metal) boot, threaded ring.


----------



## Pwallwin

Nake said:


> Do you have the battery in the light while you're doing this? The sequence is switch, washer, (plastic or metal) boot, threaded ring.



Na I tried it without the battery last night. If the 'washer' is just an o-ring (i'm sure it is 'cos I didn't change it from how I got it) then I'm doing something wrong. Very pissed off that I've dinged it. :shakehead


----------



## Nake

I have an early body and a later one. The early has a metal flat washer, while the later has a plastic one with a raised portion around the center hole. The raised portion goes toward the boot. Try it without the O-ring.


----------



## Pwallwin

Nake said:


> I have an early body and a later one. The early has a metal flat washer, while the later has a plastic one with a raised portion around the center hole. The raised portion goes toward the boot. Try it without the O-ring.



Is the o-ring not there to waterproof it? I'll try it without it now.


----------



## Nake

What parts do you actually have that go into tail. Do you have a washer that I'm speaking of. When the threaded ring screws down onto the lip of the boot, I would think that would seal it.


----------



## Pwallwin

OK, everything out.

I have clicky, plastic washer with a rasied middle part that you speak of, an o-ring, black rubber boot cap and SS switch ring.


----------



## Pwallwin

It's so much easier to click without the o-ring. I'k just leave that off then.


----------



## Nake

Get a metal washer at the hardware store. The OD is 17mm and ID is 8mm. The sealing comes from the threaded ring squeezing the rubber lip of the boot against the metal washer.


----------



## Pwallwin

Cheers man, you've been more than helpful. 

Really appreciate it!


----------



## Pwallwin

The strangest thing is happening to my torch.

After taking the o-ring out and trying it without, it worked fine for a few tries.

After I tried it again, it was only going on when I clicked momentary on. When I clicked it fully in high mode, the light would turn off totally. It was OK in variable mode.

So I thought it was the battery. I changed it to a brand new one out of the packaging and the same thing happened.

I then thought the o-ring must have provided the pressure required for the clicky spring to keep contact with the battery negative end. So I put the o-ring back in, and nothing happens at all now. The odd time when I push the clicky in really far it goes on for a split second.

Strange, and very annoying. I've just stuck it in a bag ready to send back to Nitecore. Not impressed! :shakehead


----------



## Dobbler

Dobbler said:


> Has anyone tried SureFire F series filters on the NEX? I'm wondering if they would fit very well...


----------



## fareast

a few comments:

- it seems the surefire F04 and the like should fit the NEX quite well. Note however I have not tried this myself, I have seen others comment it fits;
- the sequence of the NEX clicky assembly:
1. clicky;
2. metal/plastic washer;
3. the translucent o-ring;
4. the rubber switch boot;
5. the retaining ring. 
Since I have switched to a different rubber switch boot I have a few threads (~1 turn) sticking out. The rubber switch boot is still a lot higher though. 
I have added a few photo's to try and paint a better picture. 

The NEX on the left is with the ring and switch boot sticking out and the right one still had it's original switch boot





the left one is with original boot, the other two have an elevated ring and boot (non-original)





PwallWin:
I know the issue you describe. I have had it sometimes when I have not tightened the retaining ring enough. If this is fully thightened, then it could also be that the clicky is finicky. Use a different one. This has always worked for me and I think in the end it was always the clicky switch since I always tighten my ring quite well. If you have no more spares, let me know, I mail one to you seeing I have enough spares. Or, you might try NiteCore also, what ever tickles your fancy.


----------



## euroken

I can confirm that F04 fits NEX quite nicely.


----------



## Dobbler

euroken said:


> I can confirm that F04 fits NEX quite nicely.



Thank you.


----------



## Pwallwin

Very kind of you Fareast, but I am in contact with Nitecore and have it packaged ready to be sent off!

Thanks. :wave:


----------



## Moonshadow

> After I tried it again, it was only going on when I clicked momentary on. When I clicked it fully in high mode, the light would turn off totally. It was OK in variable mode.


This happens to me occasionally when I swap the batteries. Usually taking the battery out and putting it back in a couple of times will fix things and then it works OK until the next battery change.

Since it only happens shortly after opening up to put in a new battery, I was thinking that it was maybe due to the brass contact rings in the head sticking rather than the clicky switch. Only happens with rechargeables (AW), so I guess it could be a battery length issue too.


----------



## panflute

In order to avoid problems, have support, order parts, get replacements if necessary, get the latest version light with the latest fixes, etc.....where is the best place to purchase the light? Nitecore.com does not seem to be up. Does the latest version of the light have a (silver) steel ring on the switch and have most of the issues with the switch been fixed, including the dimension of the tail end threads? All the issues discussed with the clicky scare me a bit.

Does the newest version have R2 written on it to distinguish it from the previous version?

The only thing not mentioned about this light is that it does not stand up on its tail.

On the previous pics I am wondering what kind of trits are used to fill the holes on the tail and how that was done. The lighter (white) trits look awesome.

There was mention of a G2 option.....is that the brightest newest CREE about to be released?

Thanks for any info.
Panflute


----------



## fareast

A few people have had a body tail ID which was a it too wide. I have one of those. I think this is a second run model (Q5). People who have had this issue (see earlier posts in this thread) had been sent replacement bodies without trouble, however, I am still using my original body because the colour of the anodizing is really beautiful (they changed to dark grey later). My original solution still works perfectly. I believe the R2 versions have E3R2 or something similar etched on the head. I think it's pretty safe to assume these have fewer issues than older ones. For one, they should come with the black clickies. The best bet however is to use the NEX head on a SF E-series body and clicky. 

The trits are the ones from [email protected] over at the CPFMP, size 1.55mm x 5mm. I used a non-permanent solution as adhesive: Pritt Poster Buddies. This makes the trits being held shockproof and in place and fully reversible. 

The light _could_ be made to tailstand _if_ you have the right clicky and switch boot or other body...(i.e. the Ti McClicky pak)

A G2 option does not ring any bells with me. 

No worries!


----------



## panflute

Thanks for the info Fareast. [email protected] is on vacation until next month so the trits will have to wait until then.

I ended up with 2 Extremes...one R3 (golden dragon) and one R3R2.

The older R3 (golden dragon) has a nice tight white beam. It is whiter than the R2 beam, but slightly less powerful throw and smaller center beam. 

The R3R2 beam besides being slightly more powerful (the LED is bigger) and having a little more throw, is slightly yellow in comparison, but also has a much wider spot. The side fill is about the same size on both lights.

Choosing between the 2, the smaller whiter beam or the larger beam is difficult but the larger beam has a "ring" around it. The smaller R2 beam has diffuse edges and no ring. I am leaning to keeping the golden dragon at the moment, but the night is young.

The blue rechargeable batteries I have seem to fit fine in either light, not being too tight. 


panflute


----------



## TriChrome

Just got mine delivered today (E3 R2 model) and dropped in an AW R123 to test it in the dark. Pretty decent for such a small light, but I must admit I was hoping for more... I atribute it to how I'm still new to high end lights, and more used to incandescent lights. A 60 lumen Surefire P60 still looks brighter than a 220 lumen LED to me for some reason...

Some comments to add to Selfbuilt's review (hope you don't mind).

-They changed the packaging. It's no longer a nice foam padded box with latch, but a regular cardboard box with clear plastic window (similar to how Surefire sells theirs).

-They now only include 1 extra clicky instead of two (and two o-rings and an allen wrench).

-The ring which holds on the rubber part of the switch is chrome instead of black, and mine sticks out so I can see the threads on it a little bit (and it won't screw in any farther).

-When I tightened the pocket clip (which was the smallest bit loose) the lock washers underneath separated so they only close maybe 300 degrees, instead of a good 350 like normal, and I've never seen lock washers separate like that (which makes me want to get some locktite on those screws).

-The color of the anodozing is a slightly lighter gray on the head, versus the bezel and the rest of the body.

Lastly, does anybody else have a delay of about half a second (maybe even closer to a full second) between switching modes? For a tactical light that's really, really bad. I've also noticed that if I turn off the light in the user-selected mode (which is usually programmed to low power for me), twist the light to be in high power mode, then turn it on, it starts in low power then after a half second delay it will go into high power mode (or strobe).


----------



## Nake

TriChrome said:


> Lastly, does anybody else have a delay of about half a second (maybe even closer to a full second) between switching modes? For a tactical light that's really, really bad. I've also noticed that if I turn off the light in the user-selected mode (which is usually programmed to low power for me), twist the light to be in high power mode, then turn it on, it starts in low power then after a half second delay it will go into high power mode (or strobe).


 
Pretty sure they all do that. At least the two I had did.


----------



## D-Dog

TriChrome said:


> Just got mine delivered today (E3 R2 model) and dropped in an AW R123 to test it in the dark. Pretty decent for such a small light, but I must admit I was hoping for more... I atribute it to how I'm still new to high end lights, and more used to incandescent lights. A 60 lumen Surefire P60 still looks brighter than a 220 lumen LED to me for some reason...
> 
> Some comments to add to Selfbuilt's review (hope you don't mind).
> 
> -They changed the packaging. It's no longer a nice foam padded box with latch, but a regular cardboard box with clear plastic window (similar to how Surefire sells theirs).
> 
> -They now only include 1 extra clicky instead of two (and two o-rings and an allen wrench).
> 
> -The ring which holds on the rubber part of the switch is chrome instead of black, and mine sticks out so I can see the threads on it a little bit (and it won't screw in any farther).
> 
> -When I tightened the pocket clip (which was the smallest bit loose) the lock washers underneath separated so they only close maybe 300 degrees, instead of a good 350 like normal, and I've never seen lock washers separate like that (which makes me want to get some locktite on those screws).
> 
> -The color of the anodozing is a slightly lighter gray on the head, versus the bezel and the rest of the body.
> 
> Lastly, does anybody else have a delay of about half a second (maybe even closer to a full second) between switching modes? For a tactical light that's really, really bad. I've also noticed that if I turn off the light in the user-selected mode (which is usually programmed to low power for me), twist the light to be in high power mode, then turn it on, it starts in low power then after a half second delay it will go into high power mode (or strobe).



Let me add my experiences too...

* I bought mine a year ago and back then it came in a nice padded box with nice foam, 2 switches, allen wrench, etc... really nice. The SR3 I bought about a month ago comes in a box too but the foam is really junky quality so unlike the Extreme box was. Perhaps what you are seeing is a decline overall, not just specific to that one model though I don't like to think like that.

*The half second delay is there for me too and intended though I can see how it becomes a pain if you want to use it tactically. 

*No anodizing mismatch on mine although that is just luck of the draw

*My ring is also chrome though it doesn't stick out

*I'm on my second body already b/c the screws continually loosen / then strip. Bad design on NiteCore's part

Other than that a real nice light which I've carried / abused for a year now. Dropped it onto concrete from 6 feet 2 times and a bunch of other little dings and drops here and there and still ticking.


----------



## TriChrome

I'm having problems with mine now and it's not even two weeks old. It's currently stuck in high mode only; won't go into the programmed mode. 

I've reassembled it a dozen times, cleaned everything, lubed everything, and replaced the clicky. It's going back to the company I bought it from for replacement. Since my NiteCore SR3 arrived DOA, I'm not recommending this brand to anybody.


----------



## binky1206

*rechargeable's in a nitecore extreme r2*

Hi everyone

Could you please tell me if I can use a rechargeable battery in my Nitecore extreme r2, I've heard conflicting stories and that they may cause damage to the torch.

Any thoughts...

Also do you think I would get more brightness from a rechargeable?

Thanks.
Tim


----------



## Olef

*Re: rechargeable's in a nitecore extreme r2*

I use RCR123A's no problem in my NEX R2.

Check here - http://www.nitecore.com/products/nex/

relevant part - 
Specification
Dimension: Total length 92mm;Diameter 26mm 
Weight: 65g 
Battery: powered by one CR123 battery or Li-ion battery

Brighter with the Li-Ion too...

Where did you hear that Li-Ion's would damage the light?

Olef


----------



## DM51

*Re: rechargeable's in a nitecore extreme r2*

Welcome to CPF, binky1206.

I'll merge your post into the comprehensive review of this light by selfbuilt.


----------



## Moonshadow

*Re: rechargeable's in a nitecore extreme r2*

I use AW RCR123s in my Extreme, and it has been transformed.

I haven't noticed it being any brighter, but it was sometimes a bit flaky with primary batteries - wouldn't always ramp properly, and flickered on the intermediate levels. With the rechargeables, it is like a different light, working perfectly on all levels.

The only slight quirk I have is that high sometimes doesn't work on first loading a freshly charged battery - the light shuts off when you switch to high. I have to remove and reinstall the battery a couple of times, and then is suddenly starts working again. After that, it usually behaves just fine until the next charge.


----------



## binky1206

Thanks guys, I see maplin do a cr123 charger and battery for £20. I think I'll pick one up. Cheers again.


----------



## Moonshadow

I would avoid the Maplin unit. These are 3V rechargeables I think - they contain a circuit to drop the voltage so you lose out on capacity.

You would be better off with the AW protected cells that give you the full 3.7 volts. 

The AW cells are more expensive but you will only be spending out once, so you'll save money in the long run.While you're at it, get yourself a decent charger like the PILA. 

Both available here:

http://www.ledfire.co.uk

If you are switching to Lithium-Ion for the first time, you should also read the information on safe use in the batteries forum, where there is also plenty more information on the different types of batteries and chargers.


----------



## binky1206

Thank you very much I will check it out.
Tim


----------



## chef4850

TriChrome, I am not sure there is anything wrong with your light. I had a similar issue when I had mine and I think that the programable setting is set to high. Making it apear that the light will only stay on high. if you go into the programable mode and ramp it down I think you will be happy. Nitecore is a good brand and the extreme is my favorite light. Try resetting the programable mode.

Chef


----------



## fareast

*Re: rechargeable's in a nitecore extreme r2*



Moonshadow said:


> The only slight quirk I have is that high sometimes doesn't work on first loading a freshly charged battery - the light shuts off when you switch to high. I have to remove and reinstall the battery a couple of times, and then is suddenly starts working again. After that, it usually behaves just fine until the next charge.



Sounds like the retaining ring (holds the clicky) is a tiny bit loose. Tighten it. Or it could be the clicky is about to give. I have had issues like this in the past. These are the solutions which have always worked.


----------



## TriChrome

chef4850 said:


> TriChrome, I am not sure there is anything wrong with your light. I had a similar issue when I had mine and I think that the programable setting is set to high. Making it apear that the light will only stay on high. if you go into the programable mode and ramp it down I think you will be happy. Nitecore is a good brand and the extreme is my favorite light. Try resetting the programable mode.


That's not the problem; my problem actually started with it being stuck in low on both modes first, then after rebuilding/cleaning/lubing it 3-4 times I forgot to replace the spring behind the LED module then it I assume that tricked it into high mode, which even after replacing that spring I could then never get it out of high mode no matter what I did.

It's been replaced by the company I bought it from since then, and they sent it back to NiteCore (and now my problem is deciding to keep it, or sell the replacement light).


----------



## shao.fu.tzer

TriChrome said:


> I'm having problems with mine now and it's not even two weeks old. It's currently stuck in high mode only; won't go into the programmed mode.
> 
> I've reassembled it a dozen times, cleaned everything, lubed everything, and replaced the clicky. It's going back to the company I bought it from for replacement. Since my NiteCore SR3 arrived DOA, I'm not recommending this brand to anybody.



This light is very picky. Even the smallest daub of silicone compound on the bare metal of the body can interfere with switching. You pretty much have to apply lube with a toothpick. Try using 99% alcohol on a q-tip to clean your light. Also, have you tried switching batteries?

Shao


----------



## TriChrome

Mine was replaced by the dealer with a brand new one a couple weeks ago. Never got the original one to work even after cleaning and lubing everything (and even when I put it back together with no lube).


----------



## bdusseau

*Re: NiteCore Extreme Ti clip*

Wasn't fond of the factory clip. I replaced it with this Ti clip. This clip mated perfectly to the holes and no modification was needed. However, the clip holes could be countersunk to make the screw head level, I have not done this step yet. Here are some pics:


----------



## VF1Jskull1

*Re: NiteCore Extreme Ti clip*



bdusseau said:


> Wasn't fond of the factory clip. I replaced it with this Ti clip. This clip mated perfectly to the holes and no modification was needed. However, the clip holes could be countersunk to make the screw head level, I have not done this step yet. Here are some pics:



nice mod.... where can i get one like that?


----------



## bdusseau

> nice mod.... where can i get one like that?


Thanks. Here is the site I ordered them from:http://www.USAknifemaker.com The price point is hard to beat, and I really like the deep pocket carry it allows. It is the Lo rider thin model IIRC.


----------



## BIGLOU

Bdusseau Thanks for sharing that clip find. I just got a Nitecore Extreme and also did not like the clip. I immeadiately clicked to the link and ordered me one.


----------



## how2

binky1206 said:


> Thanks guys, I see maplin do a cr123 charger and battery for £20. I think I'll pick one up. Cheers again.




Don't from maplin buy from 7dayshop only £5.


----------



## hatman

bdusseau said:


> Thanks. Here is the site I ordered them from:http://www.USAknifemaker.com The price point is hard to beat, and I really like the deep pocket carry it allows. It is the Lo rider thin model IIRC.



I see a Low Rider Diamond and a Low Rider Stealth....is it one of those?

How difficult are these to install?


----------



## coors

hatman said:


> I see a Low Rider Diamond and a Low Rider Stealth....is it one of those?
> 
> How difficult are these to install?



" bdusseau" has shown to us item #LRT260, which has a max dia. of 0.33" and which also has been removed from the ti-clips page (http://tinyurl.com/ykkhbtj ), because they are sold out. The owner is readying another batch of these though and they will be relisted, when ready, which he told me will be within the next 2-weeks. Just keep watching the page for these to reappear. 
As for difficulty of installing, I can only comment on my Extreme-clone (Romisen RC-A4):






After 30-45mins of work I nearly have the face of the screws flush with the face of the holes. This required turning the screw heads to a countersunk profile, shortening the screws and countersinking the 2 holes. By far the nicest clip that I've ever used.
Thank you for sharing this with us, bdusseau !


----------



## coors

*Re: NiteCore Extreme titanium clip*

The ti-clip that "bdusseau" shared with us, above, are now listed once again: http://tinyurl.com/yj74gsa


----------



## pobox1475

I really want this clip but am not so good with power tools. Do I need _special _screws? Also is countersinking neccessary to have a high quality installation?


----------



## euroken

pobox1475 said:


> I really want this clip but am not so good with power tools. Do I need _special _screws? Also is countersinking neccessary to have a high quality installation?


 
pobox1475,

No powertools necessary, unless you want the countersunk screws. The dimensions between the holes on the clip match the NEX screw locations. So, you just need to reuse the screws that came with the NEX.

I just recently purchased the low rider stealth and installed just using existing screws and hex wrench.







Good luck!


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## Matt7337

fareast said:


> the left one is with original boot, the other two have an elevated ring and boot (non-original)



Fareast, your NEXs are awesome! I've had mine for a while now and it has become my favourite EDC, and for this reason, I'd like to install some tritium vials like you have on yours. Could you share some details (or a link to the thread if you already have) on how you fitted yours? It looks great, although I'm not a fan of green trit unless it's on a weapon sight  Thanks!


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## fareast

Matt7337 said:


> Fareast, your NEXs are awesome! I've had mine for a while now and it has become my favourite EDC, and for this reason, I'd like to install some tritium vials like you have on yours. Could you share some details (or a link to the thread if you already have) on how you fitted yours? It looks great, although I'm not a fan of green trit unless it's on a weapon sight  Thanks!



Thanks! I still use one of them every day still, I like them that much even though it isn't the smallest solution for a keyring... Since every now and then I get request like yours so I copied and pasted some text from a PM:

I bought the tritium via [email protected]'s Tritium Thread (http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...d.php?t=194646) and the size 1.55mm x 5mm are truly a perfect fit (others sell them in different sizes). 

I used Pritt Poster Buddies (http://www.prittworld.com/be-d/produ...r-buddies.html) 
Putting two and two together:
I got a small piece of Pritt buddies and laid a vial on it and just started rolling it and totally covering it. Then I used a pair of tweezers to put it on top of the hole on the batt tube. Using the tweezers' flat part I carefully push it down the tiny hole. This makes the Pritt buddies ooze out then I push it in fully and I use a separate piece of buddie to take away the oozed out excess buddie. It sticks better to each other then to anything else. 

This pritt stuff is pliable but will harden over time but it will never fully harden. The one on my keychain has already seen it's fair share of abuse (fallen several times on concrete, street, tiles, taken showers etc.) and it still sits as I put it in. HOWEVER, if you push on it, it wll come out. In a way, this stuff, due to it's pliability, is also a tiny shock-breaker. I just have to be "careful" to not unintentionally push on the vials...

Others use Norland 61, which can be hard to get but search the forums. This stuff dries with UV and remains crystal clear and very hard. Then come the epoxies which will "yellow" over time. 

All the best!

Add.
Some time has passed since the tritium install and the solution with the Pritt buddies seem to be just about perfect (well in case of these NEX's with them six holes...). The vials have never moved since and it keeps surviving all drops on everything. This i.e. in contrast to my Wee's Tritium which have been glued down using Norland 61 and two have broken already (no keychain duty) since there's no shock absorption from the adhesive.


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## fareast

another tip for NEX users;

If you have trouble or worries about pulling the light from your pocket since the clip is a good tight fit, add a thick o-ring to the battery tube. Look at the pic above for the location.


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## shadow77phl

lots of input i've read from this thread! thank you gentlemen! waiting for mine to arrive!:twothumbs


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## FatRat

Good info,you sold me!The tritium looks great.


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## shadow77phl

selfbuilt said:


> It seems a waste to not be taking advantage of the low modes of the NEX. Your issue is most likely switching speed - you need to tighten/loosen quickly from user defined mode to get it to ramp. This can be a bit tricky at first (due to the thick o-ring installed), but once you get the hand of it you shouldn't have a problem. Same thing if you are having problems getting out of strobe mode - the switch from loosen/tighten needs to be done quickly to get back to Max mode. Good luck!



Dang, i had to read this thrice to get mine working, i tightened and loosed quickly from the standard mode; thank you sir! sorry, newbie here that's why it took me thrice to figure it out!:twothumbs Got my NEX yesterday but just fiddled around tonight.


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## selfbuilt

shadow77phl said:


> Dang, i had to read this thrice to get mine working, i tightened and loosed quickly from the standard mode; thank you sir! sorry, newbie here that's why it took me thrice to figure it out!:twothumbs Got my NEX yesterday but just fiddled around tonight.


Glad it helped. 

Many lights can be a bit tricky to get the timings right (for switch cycles, half-presses, presses-and-holds, etc.). But once you get the knack for it, "muscle memory" seems to kick in and you should haven't further problems.

As an aside, I must say this light seems to have a lot of staying power, given that this review is over 2 years old. oo: At >72K views, this has to be one of my most popular stand-alone reviews.


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## VF1Jskull1

That's why I can't seem (or haven't found the need) to find a suitable replacement for it as an EDC light as it seem to play this role quite well..


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## ashe18c

*Nitecore Extreme problem with color mismatching*

Hey guys, anyone of you guys have a Nitecore Extreme with the bezel not matching the color of the head and with the body too? I have hundreds of lights, and usually buy more than one if i like em a lot. I got an extreme and was amazed of the throw from its small size and how its and r2, but can out-throw most of my one cell r5's, except my lego'd 4sevens turbo. So I got another, but this one was labeled as "black" instead of the "dark gray" i got previously. I got the second one last week, and the lens was cracked and the color was exactly the same as the dark gray one, so i sent it back and exchanged it. When i got it back again, i was soo disappointed, even more so than the first with the cracked lens. Not only is the body the exactly same color as the dark gray one, but the bezel was a lot darker, and doesnt match with the head either. I will try to post some picture of the two later. Anyone else has this problem with the extreme? Im at work typing this and freaking out. Thanks in advance. Been reading here for a couple years, but kept having problems creating an account.


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## Kestrel

*Re: Nitecore Extreme problem with color mismatching*

ashe18c, let me see about merging your thread with the existing Nitecore Extreme Review thread. While the excellent photos in Post #1 demonstrate good color matching, a discussion of anodizing mismatches seems to begin here in this post. It would probably be better to have this conversation there ...
 
Also, if you were to post pics of your light, that would be helpful regarding the degree of severity and would probably generate more feedback. FWIW, HA mismatches seem to occur rather frequently in some HA light models.


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## Matt7337

*Re: Nitecore Extreme problem with color mismatching*



ashe18c said:


> Hey guys, anyone of you guys have a Nitecore Extreme with the bezel not matching the color of the head and with the body too? I have hundreds of lights, and usually buy more than one if i like em a lot. I got an extreme and was amazed of the throw from its small size and how its and r2, but can out-throw most of my one cell r5's, except my lego'd 4sevens turbo. So I got another, but this one was labeled as "black" instead of the "dark gray" i got previously. I got the second one last week, and the lens was cracked and the color was exactly the same as the dark gray one, so i sent it back and exchanged it. When i got it back again, i was soo disappointed, even more so than the first with the cracked lens. Not only is the body the exactly same color as the dark gray one, but the bezel was a lot darker, and doesnt match with the head either. I will try to post some picture of the two later. Anyone else has this problem with the extreme? Im at work typing this and freaking out. Thanks in advance. Been reading here for a couple years, but kept having problems creating an account.



Sounds like you've had a horrible experience with your second NEX 

I have one of the dark grey ones and much prefer this colour to any of my other black HA lights. I have heard of colour mismatches on the heads of other brands of lights, but I thought that Nitecore had a pretty good reputation for making sure that this doesn't occur on any of their lights. The colour match on the head and body of all my Nitecore lights is perfect... I suggest you send this back again and make sure to ask them to check the light for all the things you have found wrong with the previous ones before they send the replacement out to you. Please let us know the outcome of this, as I also want to get another NEX at some point in the future, another dark grey one with the R2 emitter hopefully.


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## ashe18c

Hey, thanks for your suggestion. Id do that, but i already asked them to check the color because they already sent me one that was off color, but just my luck this one is even worse. All my other nitecore is perfect too. I heard of some color differences in the d10, but my tribute is perfect, and so is the new d11 i got. I am indeed shocked, because in my opinion, nitecore is definitely more on point in quality control than other manufacturers. I guess if the color isnt flat black, then there is always a chance of mixing parts of different batches and then come out different. The color of the beam is also different, more of a warmer tint than the usual bluish. Thats not a problem as most of us prefer a warmer/neutral tint. Thanks for your help. I may just cover the engravings and paint it myself at this point. I see all the black ones in pictures online and makes me soo jealous. Ill buy yet another one if i can confirm that it is true black. I even asked lightjuction if the extreme they have is black or dark gray, and they can only tell me its darker than the ife1. So still not sure. For the record, lightjuction has an amazing customer service, its too bad I didnt get either extreme from them, otherwise they wouldnt have a problem helping me through this.


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## TITANER

Thanks you selfbuilt,good job:thumbsup:.I have seen your other reviews,all of them are excellent:thumbsup:.


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## Kletsou

Hi,
My NiteCore Extreme was stolen 

Any suggestions for a replacement?
What I liked was:
1) throw, distance and brightness
2) Clip
3) Runtime
4) Durability
Al these made is a good EDC option. 

In the mean time I am using my Sunwayman V10 as a EDC but oh the clip on it.... I’ve lost a V10 because of the clip and have lost two clips on the current V10...


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## selfbuilt

Kletsou said:


> My NiteCore Extreme was stolen  ... In the mean time I am using my Sunwayman V10 as a EDC but oh the clip on it.... I’ve lost a V10 because of the clip and have lost two clips on the current V10...


That's a bummer. It was a good throwy light, thanks to the old XR-E emitter. Also had a solid built.

In the interim, something like the V11R may suit you better, due to the strong clip (a weakness on the V10R). But it will not match the relative throwy beam of the old Extreme. For that, you are likely going to have to look at XP-G, XP-G2 or XP-E lights. Something like the Foursevens QTLC (with XP-G2 especially) should match the relative throw. There's also the Nitecore MT1C (XP-G) and EC1 (XP-G) that both throw well (all are defined level lights, though).

You would be hard pressed to find anything of comparable build size, as most makers have opted for more petite 1xCR123A/RCR lights of late Maybe another Extreme (used?), or something larger like a HDS/Ra?


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## Kletsou

Thank you Selfbuilt!

Just proof that change is not always a good thing....

The extreme is just a nice overall package. I do have 6-7 RC123 lights but each has its own little special features and the extreme was just a nice, no nonsense type of throwy light.

I don’t have a HDS yet so maybe this is a sign.....


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