# Tikka 2 XP - review.



## Szemhazai

*Petzl Tikka 2 XP - review.*

At last, the most expected headlamp of the year probably. Successor of the famous Tikka XP -> *Tikka XP 2*. What's new? Already known from Tikka 2 Plus refreshed design, a small red led in standard, SSC P4 class led and whistle ...

Tikka Plus 2 did not make a very good impression on me compared to the old modded Tikka XP, can the new version of XP’s be better ? Are the owners of the old Tikka XP should prepare themselves for exchange :thinking:

Tikka XP 2






Tikka XP





* A bit of marketing data :naughty:*

Headlamp with 1 high-output LED, 1 red LED and five lighting modes (three continuous and two blinking) and Wide Angle lens

The TIKKA XP ² headlamp integrates two light sources as well as a Wide Angle lens with a simple open-close feature, allowing the user to choose between a long distance focalized beam and flood beam proximity lighting. This headlamp is equipped with a white high-output LED and a red LED. The white LED delivers 60 lumens in maximum mode and lights up to 60 meters. In economic mode, it can reach a burn-time of 160 hours. The red LED provides lighting to preserve night vision or to become a blinking light for increased safety, for example in an urban environment, etc. TIKKA XP® ² can be used with lithium batteries to decrease weight or increase performance in cold weather.

Technical data 
Couleurs: E99 PG: gray / E99 PI: iris
Power supply: three alkaline AAA/LR03 batteries (included)
Compatible with lithium batteries
Degree of protection: IP X4 (water-resistant)
Weight: 88 g including batteries
Guarantee: 3 years
Price: 46 Euro / 54.95 USD (Rei)

* Impressions *

This time instead of the blue color on the catalogue photo we get dark-purple - perhaps it is better to light, it will not be shining in all directions.






It is smaller than its original, with the complete battery weighs even less than that manufacturer declared, only 86 g, almost 10 grams less than the old XP. The diffuser hidden inside the casing can be easily moved up and down – it is held securely in both positions by a spring. If the manufacturer ever thinks about the introduction of color filters known from the old version, then the exchange will be possible but will require a moment of play with headlamp first. On the left, mentioned earlier whistle. :santa:






Already known bigger redesigned closing and big button switch - a new XP is definitely more user friendly than the previous one. Once opened, access to the batteries is seamless.






Compared to Tikka XP there is no seals between two parts of the case, it means, that if you put your headlamp into the water the batteries going to be wet. The manufacturer declares : “They work even when water enters the lamp body. Thanks to stainless steel contacts and waterproof parts that protect sensitive parts. If water enters the headlamp, it should be dried and the batteries changed. The contacts should be inspected.” The driver and the led is sealed in the body so it should survive some water, but do not exaggerate with testing that ;-). The whole new Tikka 2 series meets requirements of the IPX4 and is only rain resistant.






* Inside looks… *

SSC P4 emitter bin and tint unknown, glued directly to the pcb - Cooling 0 points :green:






As expected, the inside content of Tikka 2 Plus and Tikka 2 XP is almost the same.






The only interesting difference is the class of manufacturing of the pcb - in XP version all thru holes are tinned, pcb is cut more precisely, there is a path instead of handmade shortcut - somehow more refined design and better execution .

* Power supply *

Declared 60 lumens, only 10 more than Tikka Plus you said, or 20% more said the marketing department  The SSC P4 led from U1 bin requires about 200mA to emit this amount of light - these are used in Myo RXP, so the result is most likely.

As usual, effective working time for the lights powered by the cells in AAA size is humble. Just after 30 minutes of work range drops by 30% and after 10 hours by 70%. Battery indicator lighting up when the coverage is expected to reach 5m meets function here as a warning "light will goes off in any moment", because in the normal use the batteries need to be replaced much earlier.


Code:


Tikka 2 XP - alkaline batteries
      V-in   I-In   P-In     V-led  I-led  P-led   Eff.
High  4,34V  216mA  0,94W    3,10V  215mA  0,67W   71,4%
Low   4,56V   77mA  0,35W    2,92V   77mA  0,23W   64,2%
Red   4,56V   34mA  0,16W

Tikka 2 XP – NiMH rechargeable
      V-in   I-In   P-In     V-led  I-led  P-led   Eff.
High  3,75V  135mA  0,51W    2,98V  136mA  0,41W   80,1%
Low   3,85V   48mA  0,18W    2,85V   47mA  0,14W   74,0%
Red   3,85V   25mA  0,10W

Lower power consumption than in Ticca Plus and will be more light? Why not ? You just have to use the led from the good bin instead of unsorted loot, as perhaps occurred in Tikka 2 Plus. The comparison will tell the truth - or at least does not lie too much :candle:

* How it light ? *

As in the case of Tikka 2 Plus (darker casing doesn’t help) - the lamp shines everything outside and when you don’t use the peaked cap or helmet it will be highlighting user glasses. 

Inside
Tikka XP 2 (SSC P4) vs Tikka XP (Luxeon I)





Tikka XP 2 vs modded XP In high (SSC P4 U-bin)





Tikka XP 2 vs Tikka2 Plus - yes, these are "almost identical" lamps :thinking:





Well, now at least you know why you have to pay extra for XP :huh:

Outside

Tikka XP 2 (SSC P4) vs Tikka XP (Luxeon I)





Tikka XP 2 vs modded XP In high (SSC P4 U-bin)





Tikka XP 2 vs modded XP in boost (SSC P4 U-bin)





Many users will miss this mode... :mecry:






A red LED gives enough light to read a map or move indoors - in other cases in a flashing mode can serve as a warning light- to switch between the lights you have to hold the switch.

*Some Q&A *

Replace the old XP ? 
- not necessarily, if you replace the led in your headlamp, at low cost the light will once again be "on time".

Buy the Tikka 2 Plus or Tikka XP 2 ? 
- certainly it is better to pay extra for the XP version, it has better led - giving more light, longer range and built-in diffuser.

Buy the old one and mod it, or the new one ?
- unless you wear glasses, you do not need a color filter, or you are not going to walk around for a days in rain or in wet caves, then you can safely buy the XP 2

Whether that could be better ? 
- certainly, enough to give it black front panel and the current regulated driver.

*Sumary*

* Pessimistic * :tired:
Well, after 2 years of development on a previously very good headlamp you would expect more. Headlamp have lost boost mode - it was liked by many users, who may sometimes enlightened their way - also it lost intermediate mode. At the same price, unless the size and weight are not the main criteria for selection, it will be much better to buy Petzl Myo XP, which will provide more light and longer burn time.

* Optimistic * :rock:
Finally Petzl released to the market small headlamp, which really shines. In terms of quantity of light it smashes the old version. If you appreciate the look, quality, ease of use and multi-tasking then this headlamp is for you. :twothumbs


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## jch79

Thanks for the awesome review, Szemhazai! :twothumbs

Do you happen to still have the packaging, to tell where it's manufactured?

Maybe it's just the purple color (which I'm not crazy about), but the body casing looks a bit cheaper - is that just me?

Thanks!
:thumbsup: john


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## Szemhazai

*jch79* - "Made in France - Patented - ISO 9001" - that’s all


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## TGr

"Cooling 0 points :green:"

How much points for overheating ? 0 ?


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## jch79

Szemhazai said:


> *jch79* - "Made in France - Patented - ISO 9001" - that’s all



:twothumbs: Thanks for that! I love the Petzl is still making some stuff in France.

:thumbsup: john


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## tnuckels

As always *Szemhazai**,* the headlamp ninja, buys now, disassembles 5 minutes later. Good work!

There’s something disconcerting about the lack of a heatsink. One can only assume that Petzl did their homework and is perhaps using the PCB and its traces to disburse heat, as there appears to be a large metallic plate under and behind the emitter. Still, it gives me a queasy feeling.

What’s that silver section inside the battery compartment where it’s stamped PATENTED? Is there any connection between the PCB and this, as in could this be part of the heat disbursal plan? Seems I read about some new, odd composite plastics that can do things like conduct heat, but maybe I’m mistaken. 

When you run the lamp on high for a while, does this silver section get warm, especially when compared to the surrounding black plastic? Maybe they’ve taken a page from the UK Vizion and are using “battery :sick2: warming :laughing: technology”.

I like much of the new form. Just not sure the changes in functionality were worth it.


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## Woods Walker

Thank you for taking the time to do a great review. 

I don’t get a warm fuzzy feeling with this headlamp. I have the old Tikka plus and think it is a nice direct drive headlamp but not going to get the Tikka plus 2 for an upgrade or the XP for that matter. Here are some of my nit picking but keep in mind I don’t own one. First I checked out the colors and they all look like something a cylon would wear. Sure this is a tool but I liked the looks of the old one when a hunting buddy showed me his. I liked the boost mode on his. Come to think of it why no medium? Medium and low are what I use the most. Also if there is any glare though the body this could be an issue too. Why not just make it a solid color? Also don’t care about a battery warning system. The user soon learns when the power is low based on experience with their gear. Red LED is another thing I don’t get for most camping/hiking field use. A good low would work just fine for the mysterious night map reading they all talk about. But anyone with their head screwed on right is not walking around in unfamiliar terrain in the dank dark woods with just a 3XAAA headlamp using a map to find their way about.


I like the UL nature. It looks small. Also like the new battery latch. Like the use of lithium batteries for winter. It was smart to keep the lumens (60) within reason given the 3xAAA batteries. Something that B&M 3xAAA cheaper headlamp makers have not worked out or rather they are just trying to impress someone with just the numbers at the expense of true usable runtime.

But I think the 4-mode Rebel EOS is better based on the review. First it has a nice regulated output that falls into direct drive. Second it is sealed with an O ring. Granted my old Tikka plus will not die if it takes a dunk as dropped it a few times in puddles but still what would it have hurt for Petzl to added an O-ring or something give the amount of time they had to work on this. The diffuser is nice and this is one thing I liked when looking over the older XP (boost mode too but that is now gone) but the EOS has a nice beam that doesn’t need a diffuser. Also has a 5-6 lumen low, 24ish medium and 50 lumen high. A bit lower than the 60 but so what. I didn’t find any lumen rates for low but guessing it would have to be higher than the EOS’s as betting it is more of a general mode. Most of all the EOS is cheaper and has a longer warrantee to boot. 

Reading this review almost makes me want to buy an old XP and learn how to do the upgrade as this looks like a better option. But why couldn’t they do just that? Maybe add an 0-ring and change the push buttons to make it easier to use and some kinda regulation would have made what I seen as a good headlamp, again based on my short messing around with a friend's even better. But thinking that is just too simple for a big company. Betting the person that suggested this got fired.


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## RMS

Hi, does anyone know how long the battery life would be on the XP 2 with 850-900 mAh NiMH rechargeable AAA batteries? I've read that regular NiMH's will lose a charge if they're not used immediately -- is it enough to really hurt the battery life (if not used for a few days?)?

Thank you!


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## tnuckels

*Woodsy* makes several good points. Taken in order:

It’s not a bad idea to make outdoor gear in a color that calls attention to itself, or at least has some sort of bright marker areas on it, so as not to be left behind in the leaf litter. The new Petzl colors seem beyond this. Though we’ve not seen what they’re planning for the rest of their lineup, I’m thinking that dropping functionality and producing lights in “fun-boy” colors might simply be marketing to differentiate the Tikka series from the rest of their more serious headlamps. The gap between the best Tikka and the other Petzl lights seems a fair bit wider now.

I can’t judge from reading if there’s a problem with light coming through the opaque body, or glare off the diffuser tab, or what. Guess we’ll have to wait and see.

I _do_ find the battery indicator to be useful, but primarily when you first turn the lamp on and want to know if it is desperately in need of new batteries soon. Once I’m wearing the lamp I never stop to check its status.

I also find a _red light_ useful, but not for the map-reading-covert-ops scenario depicted in the ad literature. I occasionally go out with a bunch of telescope wielding sky watchers, and they’re all about the red light. Their laptops are even set to red “night mode” and no mater how low your white light is, it still seems to still be frowned upon, so red’s a useful as a courtesy in that circumstance. I’ve read stuff both pro and con about red lighting and night vision, but lean toward the pro literature.

I agree that the 4 mode EOS-R is easily the best bang for the buck and it has a wonderful single mode beam. Still, I think that it could use a diffuser as I find that, even at its lowest setting, the beam is too center weighted and the hotspot distracting for close proximity tasks such as reading. 

I’m not quite sure what Petzl’s up to with this big redesign. Once upon a time I went to buy a Tikka and found the newly released Tikka Plus. Cool! Some time later I went to buy another Tikka Plus and found the Tikka XP. Double Cool! It seemed like when Petzl released single new lights they perhaps did a more focused & better job. This entire-lineup-redesign feels like two steps forward, one stumble back.



Woods Walker said:


> Reading this review almost makes me want to buy an old XP and learn how to do the upgrade as this looks like a better option.


The Tikka XP upgrade was one of my first mods and it is not difficult. Open the body of the light, de-solder two wires, transfer thermal goop from the old star to the new one, re-solder two wires, close and you’re done. The most difficult thing I ran into was finding a Torx bit small enough to remove the interior screws.

Tell you what … if you provide the XP, I’ll throw in an SSC P4 US2W0H star and do the mod for you. Look HERE for SSC P4 color bin codes and see if W0 works for you, or you can provide your own star. If I break it, I buy it. PM me if you’re interested.

Two mode beams, spot & flood, seem to work better at providing throw & contrast for distant lighting (recall the discussion of the new frosted EOS making objects look fuzzy at distance) and even, ambient lighting for up close. Think quality handheld for distant lighting and Zebralight for up close. 

“You just don’t know the _POWER_ of the dual-mode-beam”, my young padawan.


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## Woods Walker

All good points but I never understood what whole EOS and fuzzy object thing. But I guess like tint, fuzzy objects are in the eye of the beholder. Thanks for the mod offer and if I run into an old Tikka XP for a good price I may take you up on that as I like the older one better. Great review just the same. Like the MYO RXP review too. I checked the stats for the RXP and it only shows alkaline and lithium. I think they fixed the NiMH issues however. Guessing the older Tikka XP would work with NiMH too.


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## tnuckels

A little OT, but: page 3 of the MYO RXP Technical Notice PDF under _Energy_ states NiMH are OK, though the silly website omits this information under the Specifications section. Doesn’t anyone employ proofreaders anymore? Older Tikka XP only supports Alkaline & NiMH, though I’ve used Lithium and lived to tell the tale. I think the EOS discussion had something to do with the degree of contrast you get from a harsh vs. softened light source, but that’s just my guess.

I think Karst Sports had the Tikka XP on clearance for $37.47, but it appears they are out of stock. I’ve seen them for around $40 other places. Now would be a good time to get-cha-one as retailers make room for the new lineup. Just sayin’. 

The new lineup all support Lithium, Alkaline, NiCd & NiMH, except for the Tikkina. It says not to use Lithium in the Tikkina on the website as well as the PDF. Go figure?


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## Woods Walker

tnuckels said:


> A little OT, but: page 3 of the MYO RXP Technical Notice PDF under _Energy_ states NiMH are OK, though the silly website omits this information under the Specifications section. Doesn’t anyone employ proofreaders anymore? Older Tikka XP only supports Alkaline & NiMH, though I’ve used Lithium and lived to tell the tale. I think the EOS discussion had something to do with the degree of contrast you get from a harsh vs. softened light source, but that’s just my guess.
> 
> I think Karst Sports had the Tikka XP on clearance for $37.47, but it appears they are out of stock. I’ve seen them for around $40 other places. Now would be a good time to get-cha-one as retailers make room for the new lineup. Just sayin’.
> 
> The new lineup all support Lithium, Alkaline, NiCd & NiMH, except for the Tikkina. It says not to use Lithium in the Tikkina on the website as well as the PDF. Go figure?


 
Thinking I would be better off saving the money for the MYO RXP or the Fenix headlamp. But in the case of the Fenix I am going to let others blaze that trail for me. A new entry into a product line always makes me hold off for the reviews. I would hate for the lamp to have an indicator hum or other unknown bugs on the first production run. Time is on my side as I have a bunch of headlamps. Good to hear about the NiMH as these or lithiums are all I use now. As for the EOS beam I am guessing that the person owned the older version first as this had a clear pin point beam with maybe 20 lumens max. This is the very reason I rejected the first generation EOS as didn't want to buy a headlamp and use semi clear tape over the bezel for a mod. The newer EOS has a more diffused beam with the benefits of reasonable throw. So thinking this beam which to my eye is near perfect for trail work may have been the confusion on the user’s part. The EOS beam works great in the woods but not so much on the white wall.
I am going to re read the RXP review.


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## mkpaa

Just out of curiosity I'm asking what do aaa-lithium batteries look like? Or what does lithium batteryset suitable for XP 2 look like? Is the pack rechargeable? I just don't remember seeing aaa-lithium ion batteries, much less rechargeable ones.


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## Szemhazai

These are normal batteries - only one electrode is lithium. Good quality alkaline batteries have about 2000 mAh, lithiums about 3500 mAh.

Energizer® Ultimate Lithium
http://www.energizer.com/products/hightech-batteries/lithium/Pages/lithium-batteries.aspx


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## mkpaa

Szemhazai said:


> These are normal batteries - only one electrode is lithium. Good quality alkaline batteries have about 2000 mAh, lithiums about 3500 mAh.
> 
> Energizer® Ultimate Lithium
> http://www.energizer.com/products/hightech-batteries/lithium/Pages/lithium-batteries.aspx



And there are no known rechargeable lithiums yet? What are the possible compatibility issues with lithium batteries vs. alkaline vs. nimh batteries?


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## Szemhazai

*mkpaa* there are rechargeable 14500 (AA size) and 10440 (AAA size) lithium-ion cells but they are 3+ volts and are not compatible witch most of the equipment.

3x1,5V = 4,5V
3x3,0V = 9,0V => 

You should never mix different type of cells in one device. EOT.


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## mkpaa

Szemhazai said:


> *mkpaa* there are rechargeable 14500 (AA size) and 10440 (AAA size) lithium-ion cells but they are 3+ volts and are not compatible witch most of the equipment.
> 
> 3x1,5V = 4,5V
> 3x3,0V = 9,0V =>
> 
> You should never mix different type of cells in one device. EOT.



So there are no rechargeable ones that would be compatible with XP 2? I find lag of rechargeable lithium aa/aaa:s a bit confusing. Is it matter of chemistry or production or recharging process?


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## jankj

mkpaa said:


> So there are no rechargeable ones that would be compatible with XP 2? I find lag of rechargeable lithium aa/aaa:s a bit confusing. Is it matter of chemistry or production or recharging process?



Use rechargeable nimh. They exist in AAA size. Preferbly low discharge nimh, such as eneloop. 

Rechargeable batteries based on lithium chemistry have totally different voltage. Don't use them here. Technically, you could probably replace 3*AAA with ONE li-ion battery (rated 3.7v, is as much as 4.2v when at 100% charge), but in practice it really doesn't makes sense to do so.


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## Szemhazai




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## Ozgeardo

Great review but I have just returned from a couple of weeks in the field with my modded (SSC P4) Tactikka XP and can not speak highly enough of this unit.
I can confirm just as long a run time (if not more) and a "boost" that is incredible. I can not see the Tikka 2 XP being an "upgrade". Is there going to be a "Mil Spec" Tactikka 2 XP?
I hope the old models remain available for some time as I have many colleagues who want me to obtain and mod a "Old XP" for them.

Ozgeardo


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## tnuckels

*Ozgeardo*, BrightGuy still seems to have some stock of the older models: TakTikka XP, TakTikka XP Adapt, and Tikka XP HAZLOC. Standard model seems to have gone missing. 

If it were me I’d jump on whatever source is close to you, or that still has stock, as I’ve noticed the older models drop of quite a few reseller’s listings. I picked up two HAZLOCs and did the mod, just ‘cause I like this old headlamp so much and dig that crazy black & yellow color scheme.

Good Luck!


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## zemmo

The Tikka XP and the PT EOS are my two favorite AAA headlamps. I really like the boost mode on the XP. Last fall I was feeding my sled dog outside, and noticed some very bright green eyes off to one side. I thought it might be one of the coyotes that had attacked a couple of dogs, but with the boost mode (could not have told w/o it) and a pair of binos I was able to see that it was in fact a lynx. 

On a Green River trip, we were sitting around camp on night, and, once again, saw eyeshine up the hillside. Neither I nor my buddy had decent lights--this was years ago--and we disagreed on what animal was watching our camp: he thought it was a cougar, I thought it was a ringtail. Never knew for sure, couldn't find any tracks in the morning.

So personally, a good blast of throw is very useful. I'll keep my old XP...


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## Illum

Szemhazai said:


> A
> SSC P4 emitter bin and tint unknown, glued directly to the pcb - Cooling 0 points :green:



they do know that overtime the LED will overheat and burn a hole on the PCB right?:thinking:


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## Ozgeardo

*Re: No need to rush out and buy old stocks of XP's*

Whilst the new XP2 has some features I like it just does not cut the mustard against the TacTikka XP (IMHO) notably when modded with the SSCP4. I was just about to rush out and buy all the old stock XP's I could find/afford but thought I would drop Petzl a line and see what they have cooking and this is the reply I received:

_Thanks for your enquiry._
_At this point in time there is no change in the Tactical/ Industrial _
_Range of Petzl Head Torches._
_With the new Tikka XP2 there is no need for a boost mode since the _
_maximum output is 60 lumens where the older version was 40 lumens on _
_boost. The new range of Tikka2 Range has no ability to change lens _
_however the Tikka Plus2 and the Tikka XP2 have a separate Red LED to _
_address some of this issue with night vision._
_If you have any further questions please email me or call me on XXXXXXXXXX __Cheers,_
_Paul Lidgard_
_Technical Support Manager_
_Australia & New Zealand_

I did not have the heart to tell them that I had a "modded" XP that shames the quoted "40 lumen's" on boost. Either way it looks like we will still have stocks of the Tikka-TacTikka-Adapt etc XP's for a while to come. :thumbsup:

I love the bit about _The new range of Tikka2 Range has no ability to change lens _I guess they have not done a customer profile on the flashaholics around here LOL 

tnuckels, thanks for the link to Brightguys but there foreign shipping policies are not user friendly. (Too bad they seem alright other than that)

Woodswalker, go and get the old Tactikka XP and mod it, it is *too* easy and works great with NiMH.

*Cheers*
*Ozgeardo*


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## tnuckels

It would be a shame if Petzl decided to let the ADAPT system lapse with the introduction of the new models. I’d always thought ADAPT looked interesting, but didn’t quite grasp just how flexible it is till I bought one. Sticky mount for your helmet, clip for your (hat, belt, waist, pocket, etc.), and a top strapped (removable) headband. Add the three (red, green, blue) filters and you’re set for just about anything. One nice aspect of ADAPT I didn’t realize is that the light can rotate on the attach point. Combined with tilt you have a full ½ sphere in front of you where you can aim the beam. Sweet! :rock:


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## RyanA

Excellent reviews, thank you!


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## Moz

Can anyone explain what causes the beam to show two diagonal lines to be visible, going almost from the center of the beam down to the right?
You can see these lines on the beam shots of this lamps review.
I bought the Tikka XP2 and mine had the same thing.
I wrote to Petzl and got a response that it is caused by the trucks which the diffuser is gliding on - I don't think it is the case.


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## Kremer

Moz said:


> Can anyone explain what causes the beam to show two diagonal lines to be visible, going almost from the center of the beam down to the right?


Looks like die wires to me, look at the close up of the PCB/LED above.


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## NYCaver

Thanks for the review!

I have no idea why they wouldn't seal the body with an o-ring. It's certainly easy and effective and Princeton Tec has been doing it for a while now. So you can empty out the batteries and dry it out if you need to but if you don't get to that right away you have corrosion on the battery contacts. The whole Tikka series seems to me to be lagging behind in improvements compared to the alternatives these days. The one thing they've been consistantly offering though is modes that offer very long runtimes. That, I can appreciate.


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## oricum

Anybody changed the LED/reflector/optic in XP2 to get rid of the diagonal lines ?


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## mkpaa

A bit off topic, but probably not worth another thread.

My xp ended up full of sand. https://twitter.com/mkpaa/status/252660485944643584/photo/1

I'm trying to open to main part, but one of two torx screws seems to be stuck (and/or rounded). Any tips on how to open the stuck torx?


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## gcbryan

mkpaa said:


> A bit off topic, but probably not worth another thread.
> 
> My xp ended up full of sand. https://twitter.com/mkpaa/status/252660485944643584/photo/1
> 
> I'm trying to open to main part, but one of two torx screws seems to be stuck (and/or rounded). Any tips on how to open the stuck torx?



If it's like the torx screws used on folder knives it's common to use something similar to lock-tite so take the batteries out and try using a heat gun on the low setting and then try to torx.


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## dougie

It's hard to see but the photo makes it seem like the diffuser has scoring to it from the sand? Assuming that to be the case then I also assume that the lens is also potentially scored? If it is then you might be able to get rid of light score marks by using toothpaste as a cutting compound to restore it? Of course you have to get the torx screws out first but I'm sure it can be done!


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## mkpaa

So far so good. Now I just have to put it back together. Light works and I got most cleaned. Electronics were dry and clean. Are there any right tools for opening the "hooks"? I used just a screwdriver and some force. https://twitter.com/mkpaa/status/263423433625440256/photo/1


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## Szemhazai

No tools, beside torx for internals you can take it apart by hands.


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## mkpaa

Szemhazai said:


> No tools, beside torx for internals you can take it apart by hands.



My logical thinking just wasn't enough to figure out which way each piece should be pulled/pushed. Some parts were notably tight even when putting it back together. I was worried about breaking something.

Light is in one piece and working now.


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## Ovu85

Any chance to place a powerfull LED in TIKKA xp 2?
It's a great, handy headlamp but i'd need a powerfull LED.

Thanks!


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## Szemhazai

You can use SSC P4 from some newest bins available V3 - those are 140.0~ 154.0 lumens @ 350mA compared to 80.0 ~ 91.0 lumens from the T bit that was originally used there. That is the easiest option.


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