# protocol if flashlight falls into gas tank?



## beerwax (Oct 5, 2014)

my boat has 2 gas tanks with 40mm fill hole. sometimes I fill or check level at night. today I dropped my aaa light, it didn't go in but there is always next time. so. does anyone have a sensible protocol for what to do in the unlikely event it ever does. if it makes a difference its always an eneloop in the light. 

wasn't sure where to post, its a bit of a different topic, not even sure if I am allowed to ask it at all. 


cheers - wax


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## Illum (Oct 5, 2014)

if you're concerned with the likeliehood of an explosion it is very small, there's not enough air in there to initiate the reaction. Gasoline is a solvent, so it will slowly eat away the O-rings, and enter into the flashlight and start dissolving everything else. Not sure what will happen to the battery, but likely will remain an aluminum hunk on the bottom of the tank along with all sorts of other sediments and a little entrenched water. Unless there's something ferric about your light fishing with a magnet won't work. 

Not sure how the tank sits in the tub, but in a vehicle one could always purge it out, then unbolt it from the fuel pump and reach in from there with an appropriate tool. Though that seems going a little extreme to recover something that likely should never fall in in the first place. Why not use a headlamp?

If its an AAA light, run a dog tag chain over it and wear it on your neck, if you had to use both hands in a hurry the light won't go anywhere.


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## beerwax (Oct 5, 2014)

thx for your input. lots of questions - run , let it go flat before retrieving , does it have to be retrieved at all , where to procure a replacement ti2 ? its not a topic for me to be guessing about. 

I think its extremely unlikely to ever happen now that I have had the wake up call, but its 100 litres of gasoline, with which familiarity leads to lack of respect. just want to follow the book on this one.


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## 880arm (Oct 5, 2014)

Going with what Illum said, the first step in the protocol should be to prevent the light (or anything else for that matter) from falling into the opening. If you don't want to use a headlamp, a wrist lanyard should do the trick. I'm not familiar with enough with boat tanks to have any idea about how to get something out of them.


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## mcnair55 (Oct 5, 2014)

A lanyard is order of the day I think, will not be checking my motor cycle tank again without it around my neck.


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## Str8stroke (Oct 5, 2014)

I have one of those flexible claw pincher picker upper things. I used it to retrieve a dead June Bug from the fuel tank on my lawn mower. I forgot the end had a small led light that comes on when you open it up. It works in the fuel. Quite handy, albeit dangerous. LOL I forgot it had the light until it came on. But I am still here so all good.


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## Crazyeddiethefirst (Oct 5, 2014)

First, I agree with what has been said so far. Boats are always subject to sudden movements and a Lanyard should be an absolute. If the light had sentimental value, or you were overly concerned about leaving it in the tank despite assurances of the low probability of any explosion or untoward effect, most auto parts stores sell a 24"-36" "claw" tool that is comprised of four pieces of springy metal that open when the handle is pushed and the claw then contracts to catch the item(flashlight), or perhaps easier, a lanyard (yes, even with precautions the light & lanyard could both end up in their if you are knocked off balance by a wave...Caveat: tank should be mostly full if you try this retrieval method, the risk of explosion is greatest when there is the highest amount of gas vapor, such as an almost empty tank. There have been times I have needed to retrieve items from small places under water, and I have a claw tool that has an attached light and guides for my flexible camera to be able to accomplish such a retrieval in just a couple of minutes. Just to overstate what my colleagues have said: prevention and not ending up needing to retrieve the light is the best course of action.


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


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## NoNotAgain (Oct 5, 2014)

I'd suggest getting a screen filler neck insert which should have already been there. Also verify if the ground wire is still attached to the tank (s).

My military 10K diesel has one as well as my Honda EU2000i portable generator. 

Just like the screens required on marine starters and alternators, it keeps any sparking from ocurring.


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## Str8stroke (Oct 5, 2014)

NNA, Oh I have used a Honda EU2000i sweet unit there! The Honda comes factory with a filter. They are expensive, but worth the investment.


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## Poppy (Oct 5, 2014)

I suppose there is always the option to stick the tank. I had more than one boat that we used to do that.


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## Vortus (Oct 5, 2014)

Make sure using a steel light so can use magnet I guess. Sucks, but might have to drain the tank, not worth the spark risk. Just use a screen, or siphon prevention device that will catch whatever goes in.


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## Poppy (Oct 5, 2014)

Vortus said:


> Make sure using a steel light so can use magnet I guess. Sucks, but might have to drain the tank, not worth the spark risk. Just use a screen, or siphon prevention device that will catch whatever goes in.



Yeah... or just use a bigger light. Ever see any of those 6V ever-ready lanterns? If that could fall in, you could reach in with your hand and grab it.


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## thedoc007 (Oct 5, 2014)

Vortus said:


> Make sure using a steel light so can use magnet I guess. Sucks, but might have to drain the tank, not worth the spark risk. Just use a screen, or siphon prevention device that will catch whatever goes in.



Good luck finding that, though. Every "steel" light I have seen is stainless...and stainless steel doesn't attract a magnet either, at least not well enough to be useful. Make sure it doesn't happen...an ounce of prevention can be worth a pound of cure, y'know.


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## beerwax (Oct 6, 2014)

thanks for all the input .
initially I thought the filler screen but that would just catch and hold the light right in the fumes. 

my decision at this stage is 'do not use a flashlight when filling a gas tank' , super conservative I know but along the lines of 'turn off the car engine when filling a gas tank' and 'do not use cell phone while filling a gas tank'. (I have never been sure if the latter was for ignition danger or just to stop you getting distracted). 

thoughts I had are - a flashlight with orings probably wont let gas vapour flow readily. 

- it would seem an ignition spark is more likely when turning the light on or off , but twisty lights often turn off and on when impacting during a fall. 

- I have no knowledge of what danger there is in a submerged active flashlight. 

- replacing a damaged thrunite Ti2 could prove problematic. as with most things that I find that I like - 'they' stop production. 

cheers - bee


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## ValeTudoGuy (Oct 6, 2014)

It's probably a good idea to use an ATEX intrinsically safe rated light for that job, Wolf and Peli do some decent ones.


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## Illum (Oct 6, 2014)

Crazyeddiethefirst said:


> Caveat: tank should be mostly full if you try this retrieval method, the risk of explosion is greatest when there is the highest amount of gas vapor, such as an almost empty tank.



That reminds me, is the tank electrically floating or is it grounded somewhere. A car is grounded because of the chassis, a boat is fiberglass... so I don't know :thinking:


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## beerwax (Oct 7, 2014)

the boss may accept 'ATEX intrinsically safe' as a valid reason to purchase a new light . heres hoping . thanks valetudoguy.


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## beerwax (Oct 7, 2014)

Illum said:


> That reminds me, is the tank electrically floating or is it grounded somewhere. A car is grounded because of the chassis, a boat is fiberglass... so I don't know :thinking:



boat is aluminium, tank is aluminium, all grounded nicely .


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## ValeTudoGuy (Oct 7, 2014)

beerwax said:


> the boss may accept 'ATEX intrinsically safe' as a valid reason to purchase a new light . heres hoping . thanks valetudoguy.



By "Boss" do you mean the Other half? Or the actual boss? Lol

Either way I hope you get to have a new toy! 

Edit: I use a Wolf HT-400 head lamp at work and it's a no frills safe work light that's unlikely to drop and is pretty darn safe if it does. 

Plus if it did drop it has a head band loop to hook it out with. 

We go down sewers with ours and I have worked near to explosive gas enriched atmospheres with it in the safe knowledge of its safety rating.


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## TEEJ (Oct 7, 2014)

The LED should be OK in fumes esp if only for a bit sitting on top of a screen, I've never had a problem as there's no "exposed spark" etc.

BTW - If there's a SUBMERGED spark for example, there's no explosion/fire, as there's no oxygen. 

The gas WILL degrade the O-Rings and possibly adhesives in the light, etc. That sort of thing would happen on the outside from contact with the )-Rings/if the light leaked. If it leaks gasoline into the light, it tends not to do too much damage to the electronics per se, but, adhesives, things softened by solvents, etc, will be degraded. The dome of the LED can collapse onto the LED, or dissolve completely, etc....depending on the degree of saturation, etc.

If the light's seal is good, other than maybe pro-actively replacing the impacted O-rings, you'd be none the worse for wear typically.


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## ValeTudoGuy (Oct 7, 2014)

Unfortunately a spark is not the total sum of our worries where intrinsically safe is an issue, surface temperature is equally Important.

There's also the fact that the environment in the tank is so saturated it's beyond ignition under general terms as we expect them.... I wouldn't bank my life on it though.

The way I see it, if there's a safe tool for a job then my life is worth more than taking any risk... No matter how small.
And in realty ATEX lights can be had for very little money. For example Energiser do some extremely cheap examples, though in my experience they are not a a jot as good as a Wolf or Peli.


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## TEEJ (Oct 7, 2014)

ValeTudoGuy said:


> Unfortunately a spark is not the total sum of our worries where intrinsically safe is an issue, surface temperature is equally Important.
> 
> There's also the fact that the environment in the tank is so saturated it's beyond ignition under general terms as we expect them.... I wouldn't bank my life on it though.
> 
> ...



Gasoline's autoignition temperature is ~ 495º F.

Do you REALLY think the surface temp of the Nimh light would be almost 500ºF?



So, again, its just not really that big a deal.

For Me, a screen/lanyard type approach would be adequate.


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## ValeTudoGuy (Oct 7, 2014)

But it also has an extremely low flash point.... 

Anyway I guess the whole idea of intrinsically safe is hoodoo? 

Well to each their own, I'm happy feeling safe with my methods and I hope your methods serve you well and safely.


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## TEEJ (Oct 7, 2014)

ValeTudoGuy said:


> But it also has an extremely low flash point....
> 
> Anyway I guess the whole idea of intrinsically safe is hoodoo?
> 
> Well to each their own, I'm happy feeling safe with my methods and I hope your methods serve you well and safely.



LOL

Well, there are contexts for these things.

YOU said the spark is not all you worry about, its also the contact temp...so, I mentioned the contact temp...which was too high to be of concern, in this context.

The "spark" is not exposed to the air in an LED flashlight...so, in this context, the spark is not really that big a deal either.


Now, there are some scenarios where you have things that could go boom more easily, etc, and, that's why there are different classes of these devices, as opposed to one size fits all for intrinsic safety, etc.

If you take an "intrinsically safe " LED light apart, mostly, its an LED flashlight...with a plastic "Non-sparking" body. If you compare it to a decent LED flashlight, the MAIN difference is they paid to have it tested and rated.




So, I'd never say its hooey, just that there are contexts for the relevancy.


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## ValeTudoGuy (Oct 7, 2014)

Ok, ok.... I can't disagree with you. 

Perhaps I have just become a corporate poster boy for safety. :tinfoil:

Haha


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## TEEJ (Oct 7, 2014)

ValeTudoGuy said:


> Ok, ok.... I can't disagree with you.
> 
> Perhaps I have just become a corporate poster boy for safety. :tinfoil:
> 
> Haha





Safety is good. We don't make up guidelines for those that work out the physics themselves...they're for the rest of the people who are better off being told general rules that should cover whatever they're involved with....even though its over kill in many cases, JUST to avoid people who don't have a basis for a judgement call, needing to make a judgement call.

For example, there ARE cases where I'd be telling the guy TO use an intrinsically safe rated light...with only slight changes in context. I don't even say NOT to, just that for an LED flashlight, when you get right down to it, its it already water proof, etc, its going to be built like the "safe" ones anyway....BUT (Big BUT, I cannot lie...) the rated ones ARE TESTED.


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## Timothybil (Oct 7, 2014)

There is an old saying that 'Building Codes Are Written In Blood', and I think I can safely say that the hazardous condition codes are the same. If one is knowingly going into, or has the possibility of going into, a hazardous condition, then not taking the proper precautions as to tools and procedures is beyond foolish. That person is dangerous to themselves and to anyone working with or around them. The extra cost of properly designed and tested tools is cheap compared to the potential loses, both in lives and materials.

That said, I agree that a lanyard would be a no-brainer as far as preventing this scenario, especially one able to snug up to the wrist so it won't slip off of the hand. If a light did fall in, and one was going to try to retrieve it by whatever means, make sure the tank is as full as is practical to lower the risk of developing an explosive fuel/air mixture above the liquid. 

This would definitely be a situation where an ounce of prevention is worth several tons of cure. :devil:


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## TEEJ (Oct 7, 2014)

Timothybil said:


> There is an old saying that 'Building Codes Are Written In Blood', and I think I can safely say that the hazardous condition codes are the same. If one is knowingly going into, or has the possibility of going into, a hazardous condition, then not taking the proper precautions as to tools and procedures is beyond foolish. That person is dangerous to themselves and to anyone working with or around them. The extra cost of properly designed and tested tools is cheap compared to the potential loses, both in lives and materials.
> 
> That said, I agree that a lanyard would be a no-brainer as far as preventing this scenario, especially one able to snug up to the wrist so it won't slip off of the hand. If a light did fall in, and one was going to try to retrieve it by whatever means, make sure the tank is as full as is practical to lower the risk of developing an explosive fuel/air mixture above the liquid.
> 
> This would definitely be a situation where an ounce of prevention is worth several tons of cure. :devil:



As someone who does both the inspections of codes and investigates causes of fires/accidents, I could not agree more.


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## beerwax (Oct 7, 2014)

TEEJ said:


> BTW - If there's a SUBMERGED spark for example, there's no explosion/fire, as there's no oxygen.


 
this is something I am unclear on. if the light is submerged, there is air and oxygen inside the light. the fuel vapour will penetrate the lights seals pretty readily, so at some stage you have the right oxygen/fuel mix inside the light. and if the penetrating vapour also causes a short circuit, what happens.


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## NoNotAgain (Oct 7, 2014)

I don't think that you could have a short circuit occur in a light submerged in a fuel tank. The in tank electric fuel pump in your car has both the positive and ground wires for the pump submerged in fuel all the time.

Of bigger concern would be if the light were operating at high power and you are able to reach the ignition temperature of liquid gasoline. Led lights get very warm when pushed to high lumens.


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## Timothybil (Oct 7, 2014)

beerwax said:


> this is something I am unclear on. if the light is submerged, there is air and oxygen inside the light. the fuel vapour will penetrate the lights seals pretty readily, so at some stage you have the right oxygen/fuel mix inside the light. and if the penetrating vapour also causes a short circuit, what happens.


Think about it. Visualize the interior of any flashlight. How much empty space is there? The actual ratio of oxygen to gasoline to be explosive is a very large number, and I think that two drops of gasoline in a modern flashlight would be enough to be past the explosive stage. When I was in high school we had a guy come in and give a presentation on gasoline and how it could be dangerous. He had a glass tube about six inches across and a foot long. If he put four or less drops of gasoline in the tube, nothing happens. Five drops and a spark makes a big whoosh. Six drops and nothing happens again. There really is a very small window where the mixture is just right to support an explosion.

As far as temperature goes, don't forget that there is, relatively speaking, a large quantity of liquid in the tank in relation to the size of the flashlight if there is enough to cover the light. That much fluid would easily dissipate any heat given off by a lite light. 

And as for gasoline shorting out the light, gasoline is non-conductive, as pointed out earlier.


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## 880arm (Oct 7, 2014)

Timothybil said:


> There is an old saying that 'Building Codes Are Written In Blood' . . .



And they also represent the absolute bare minimum that is deemed acceptable. Many of us would be completely dissatisfied if our home was built strictly "to code." There is absolutely nothing wrong with exceeding the requirements of a code or standard if it is perceived to add value (or make good sense) :devil:

With regard to the use of "safe" flashlights, these are typically deemed necessary in hazardous locations. Portions of a facility where fuel is dispensed will meet the definition of a hazardous location and would require the use of electrical devices suitable for that location. In the United States and Canada this would be a device rated for use in a Class I location, either Div 1 or Div 2 depending upon the location and anticipated conditions. This does not mean that the entire facility is a hazardous location.

Take, for example, the fuel pumps at the local convenience store or garage. Certain areas inside the pump cabinets and especially the sumps beneath the pumps would be considered hazardous locations. However, at the neighborhood gas station this designation does not extend very far beyond the pump itself for devices like flashlights. Otherwise there would be no way we could drive our unsafe vehicles full of unsafe electronic devices (phone, GPS, flashlights, etc.) right up to the pump for refueling. 

When it comes to boating there are specific rules for refueling but typically only areas below deck are at risk if there is not proper ventilation and/or control of ignition sources. If you're filling a tank above deck then the fill location most likely isn't a hazardous location. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air so it's usually the low places where it could accumulate that you have to worry about.



TEEJ said:


> Safety is good. We don't make up guidelines for those that work out the physics themselves...they're for the rest of the people who are better off being told general rules that should cover whatever they're involved with....even though its over kill in many cases, JUST to avoid people who don't have a basis for a judgement call, needing to make a judgement call.
> 
> For example, there ARE cases where I'd be telling the guy TO use an intrinsically safe rated light...with only slight changes in context. I don't even say NOT to, just that for an LED flashlight, when you get right down to it, its it already water proof, etc, its going to be built like the "safe" ones anyway....BUT (Big BUT, I cannot lie...) the rated ones ARE TESTED.



I agree safety is good and you are correct in saying that the context (or conditions) is important in determining how to apply standards. However the standards are also put in place to help protect people from those who _think _they know what they are doing. I can't count the number of times I have encountered a hazardous condition or investigated an incident where someone believed they "knew better." I won't try to defend every part of every standard but they do exist (generally) for good reasons.

It is misleading to imply that all LED flashlights are built like the "safe" ones as the product design plays more of a role than any testing that is performed. For intrinsically safe products this means they are designed such that they are incapable of providing a spark or enough heat to ignite a hazardous atmosphere. LEDs hold a big advantage over incandescent bulbs due to their lower operating temperature but the entire circuit must be considered, including electronics, switches, and batteries. Whether or not a light is waterproof has no bearing; some lights rated for use in hazardous locations only have an IPX4 rating against liquid ingress.

For something like a searchlight that requires more voltage or current than what is available from an intrinsically safe design, the only alternative is to house it in an explosion-proof enclosure. This will obviously add considerably to the cost and weight of the light which is why you see most manufacturers go with intrinsically-safe designs where possible.


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## Illum (Oct 7, 2014)

NoNotAgain said:


> Of bigger concern would be if the light were operating at high power and you are able to reach the ignition temperature of liquid gasoline. Led lights get very warm when pushed to high lumens.



submerged in liquid gasoline though... I'm not sure how gasoline operates when you dunk a heater in. I know oil is both extremely insulating when still and extremely easy to expand when hot, and comes up with its own convection loops. Wouldn't gasoline transfer that thermal energy away and create more vapors as opposed to igniting? Even when there is air in the tank? 

More than likely if the gasoline does expand you'll notice your gauge may read erratically. I know my cars does when I top off the tank then let the car sit in the open with an outdoor temperature of 95F all day. The gas light will stay on even though the tank is full and it extinguishes when I unscrew the plug then screw it back in.


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## Poppy (Oct 8, 2014)

Illum said:


> submerged in liquid gasoline though... I'm not sure how gasoline operates when you dunk a heater in. I know oil is both extremely insulating when still and extremely easy to expand when hot, and comes up with its own convection loops. Wouldn't gasoline transfer that thermal energy away and create more vapors as opposed to igniting? Even when there is air in the tank?
> 
> More than likely if the gasoline does expand you'll notice your gauge may read erratically. I know my cars does when I top off the tank then let the car sit in the open with an outdoor temperature of 95F all day. *The gas light will stay on even though the tank is full and it extinguishes when I unscrew the plug then screw it back in.*



Sorry Illum, I don't think that your gasoline would expand and contract enough to change the level of the gas in the tank enough to register ANY difference on the gas gauge. AND regarding your faulty low on gas light, you probably have a crappy connection. If the gauge is also listing just about empty at the time that the light is on, and after you fill it up, then again... either a poor connection, OR the gauge is bad, OR the gauge sending unit is bad.


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## Poppy (Oct 8, 2014)

A little science experiment... don't try this at home


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## subwoofer (Oct 8, 2014)

Really interesting thread.

I would go with avoidance in the first case. As others have said use a lanyard (wrist of neck) or alternatively attach the light to an object that is larger than the filler hole.

As nothing is completely reliable, the next step is to consider risk based on the parts in the light. Intrinsically safe lights are rated as such only because their design includes only components with insufficient energy to initiate a fire or explosion. This is different from lights rated for hazardous environments, as intrinsically safe means even if you smash the light to bits, there is nothing capable of igniting a fuel. These lights are typically low power.

If you prefer to use a light you own already then consider the total energy in the 'system'. An AAA cell is small and low energy. The different type of cells (Zinc Carbon, Alkaline, Lithium, NiCd, NiMh) will have different materials which may react differently with different fuels. I'm assuming we are talking about petroleum spirit rather then diesel fuel, but either way both are solvents, and will attack the seals and polymers in any light. If the seals fail and the fuel enters the cell, the effects will be different depending on the cell chemistry. This is where my knowledge runs a bit low, but I would expect the Zinc Carbon cell to be the less reactive.

The earlier comment about a light on high getting hot is never going to cause petroleum spirit to ignite. If that were the case we would have threads on CPF with people showing off their badly burnt hands, and having to use oven gloves to play with their lights. All fluids are better at conducting heat away from an object than air is, so is submerged in fuel, a light will most likely run cooler than when in air. Never going to happen (unless you smash open a running HID light into a fuel tank), just like a mobile phone has never cause a filling station fire (but that is another discussion).

If you are worried about a small AAA light, there are also other considerations, perhaps more likely to cause a fire such as static discharge. You have a nice aluminium boat, fuel tank etc, so nice for grounding any built up static charge, so you should get into the habit of touching the boat before removing the filler cap. This is probably over the top.

So in answer to the original post, I would use a light with the lowest energy (Low output AAA LED light powered by Zinc Carbon) so if it did fall into the tank it doesn't have enough energy to do much, and couple this with attaching the light to yourself or another object so it cannot fall into the tank.


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## zebraa (Oct 8, 2014)

What do they say? An Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure? I would attach a lanyard or wrist strap to it. If you drop it, it won't fall in then.


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## Poppy (Oct 8, 2014)

subwoofer said:


> So in answer to the original post, I would use a light with the lowest energy (Low output AAA LED light powered by Zinc Carbon) so if it did fall into the tank it doesn't have enough energy to do much, and couple this with attaching the light to yourself or another object so it cannot fall into the tank.



The filler neck is 40mm. Considering that he doesn't need to see more than four feet, I'd like to suggest that he get a $3 2D cell plastic body rayovac, or energizer light. (The head on those lights are about 50mm, even the bodies are just shy of 40mm (where you would have to TRY to shove it into the tank.)) Tape a cord to it, and tie it off so that it can't fall overboard, and it will always be near for its intended purpose, and forget about it. Once a year replace the alkalines, or maybe even once every three years.


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## Illum (Oct 8, 2014)

Poppy said:


> regarding your faulty low on gas light, you probably have a crappy connection. If the gauge is also listing just about empty at the time that the light is on, and after you fill it up, then again... either a poor connection, OR the gauge is bad, OR the gauge sending unit is bad.



cars 8 years old, crappy connections are in full season


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## Yamabushi (Oct 12, 2014)

beerwax said:


> ... I dropped my aaa light ... its always an eneloop in the light.


I don't know what make/model of light you're using but ... because of the steel shell of the eneloop, I can pick up my aluminum and titanium body AAA flashlights with a magnet.


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## beerwax (Oct 13, 2014)

Yamabushi said:


> I don't know what make/model of light you're using but ... because of the steel shell of the eneloop, I can pick up my aluminum and titanium body AAA flashlights with a magnet.



good tip yamabushi. I missed that.


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## ForrestChump (Oct 25, 2014)

2 options

Boat - Jump out, swim fast.

Car - Jump out, run fast.


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## unnamedny (Oct 25, 2014)

I would just get flashlight bigger than the gas tank opening. If you check on your tank often you might forget one day to strap on you AA (assumption) light.


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## onetrickpony (Oct 25, 2014)

NoNotAgain said:


> I'd suggest getting a screen filler neck insert which should have already been there. Also verify if the ground wire is still attached to the tank (s).
> 
> My military 10K diesel has one as well as my Honda EU2000i portable generator.
> 
> Just like the screens required on marine starters and alternators, it keeps any sparking from ocurring.



What this guy said. Just put a basket type screen filter in and let your worries drift away.

Just don't drop it overboard.


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## Cataract (Oct 26, 2014)

Ask a flashaholic a simple question and get the entire physics around it. 
*

How about just using a good ol' dip stick with markings* and never hang anything else over the tank opening? Works fine on bigger boats and at gas stations... 

The big bonuses are: You can make your own for cheap and if it's too dark, forget the light altogether, just stick a match to it and the level will be clear as day! It's a 4-in-one tool as it then becomes a really cool fire-on-a-stick, emergency signaling device and, if you are a Star Trek fan, there's your auto-destruct sequence!


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