# **BEAMSHOTS** Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE vs Xenonics Nighthunter One



## troller_cpf (Jun 21, 2011)

So yesterday, finally, a brand new Ushio UXL-75XE lamp arrived at my office. I wanted to test it on my Gen2 (G2-20) MB with use of the bulb adapters made by Parker VH and make a comparison beamshot between this lamp and the official "Ushio" MB lamp.

First of all, let's see the visual difference between the lamps: in the below picture you find all the lamps that you can currently use on your MB:

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/971/mblamps1.jpg
http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/2724/mblamps2.jpg

1) Older "ARC" lamp. Cylindrical arc tube, bad optical displacement.
2) Newer (current) "Ushio" lamp. Small round arc tube, better optical displacement. Peak Beam changed design from ARC to Ushio in the Gen3 lights, and asked Ushio to custom produce a lamp for them, based on the UXL-75XE.
3) Standard UXL-75XE lamp, with the Parker VH bulb adapters installed.

Notice how the round bulb in the UXL is much bigger than in the "Ushio" MB lamp!!!

Technically speaking, a bigger bulb like that would create even less arc displacement (better). That's why I wanted to test it on the MB and make a comparison test.

*BUT:*
I installed the UXL on my MB and... it light up once, then I shut it off, and it didn't light up ANYMORE...!!! It only makes a spark in the lamp base but that's it... does not work!!!!
Why???????

I am using, on the "Ushio" MB lamp, a 14,4 V battery pack (LiPo 4s), and it works fine... is it too much for the standard Ushio UXL-75XE lamp which is rated at 12,5 V?

Did I already "brake" the lamp?

Bottom line is: the UXL-75XE on my MB worked ONCE... now it does not. Any thoughts?


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## BVH (Jun 21, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

Somewhat randomized thoughts and not any conclusions yet. Sort of talking to myself.

Your 4S Lipo will peak at 16.8 Volts, 14.8 is nominal. As long as the MB ballasts' input Voltage range is good up to 16.6 or so, the ballast will work ok. 

Regardless of the input Voltage from your battery (again, assuming the ballast will handle 16.6V) then power output from the ballast to the bulb is going to be the same (also assuming that the arc gap, gas fill pressure and gas composition is the same). Ballast output should not change with changing input Voltage assuming the bulb specs are the same. 

Is the power handling capability (Voltage range spec and Amperage range spec) of the non-MB Ushio the same as the MB-specific bulb?

"Only makes a spark in the lamp base". (The Anode/large, rear electrode end of the bulb?) Obviously, the bulb is not going to light off unless there is a spark across the gap. The purpose of the small wire (Trigger Wire) around the chamber is to ionize the Xenon during the ignition cycle and then the spark at the electrode ignites the ionized gas. Do you mean you see arcing between the bulbs' original base and the new adapters? Or is it arcing within the bulb chamber but well behind the electrode tip? Or is it arcing between the new adapter and the MBs' original contact? Have you tried to identify the location in a very dark environment (be very careful not to flash yourself if the bulb lights off)

Did you run the non-MB bulb in the momentary 75 Watt mode during the one run?

I have a loaner MB Clone. I used Parkers' adapters and the same non-MB Ushio bulb in this light with no issues and many, many starts.

Did you clean the bulb with hi-percentage alcohol and all the contact areas?

Does the original MB Ushio bulb still work ok?

On first blush, if you see arcing, then the ballast is PROBABLY OK (the ignition circuit, anyway). It seems like you might have a loose/electrically-poor contact issue or the power rating of the non-Ushio bulb is less than the MB-specific bulb and the non-MB bulb may have been damaged. Also, look closely at the metal ribbon connector material between the back end of the electrode and the bulb base for breaks. In you pic, there are wide/large ribbon connectors on MB-specific bulbs 1 & 2 but the connector looks very small on the non-MB bulb. (I realize there is distortion thru the quartz so I cannot really tell much on the bulb #3.) Also, the trigger wire on the MB-specific bulb is connected to the anode base and then runs down to, and wraps around the chamber. I cannot see any such connection on the non-specific bulb? Is there one? (There should be) If so, does it come from the Anode (large electrode) base?

The more I look at the pic, the more it looks like the Anode metal ribbon connector is gone and the small line that appears to be that ribbon connector, is actually the shadow of the Trigger wire?


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## troller_cpf (Jun 21, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

*BVH, I'll answer your questions on your post:*

_Somewhat randomized thoughts and not any conclusions yet. Sort of talking to myself._

_Your 4S Lipo will peak at 16.8 Volts, 14.8 is nominal. As long as the MB ballasts' input Voltage range is good up to 16.6 or so, the ballast will work ok. _

_Regardless of the input Voltage from your battery (again, assuming the ballast will handle 16.6V) then power output from the ballast to the bulb is going to be the same (also assuming that the arc gap, gas fill pressure and gas composition is the same). Ballast output should not change with changing input Voltage assuming the bulb specs are the same. _
*This is what I think too*

_Is the power handling capability (Voltage range spec and Amperage range spec) of the non-MB Ushio the same as the MB-specific bulb?_
*That I do not know for the MB bulb, I know that the standard UXL-75XE bulb is rated at 12,5V and 4,5A max. But if adapters were made for it, it means that it should work... my guess *

_"Only makes a spark in the lamp base". (The Anode/rear electrode end of the bulb?) Obviously, the bulb is not going to light off unless there is a spark across the gap. The purpose of the small wire (Trigger Wire) around the chamber is to ionize the Xenon during the ignition cycle and then the spark at the electrode ignites the ionized gas. Do you mean you see arcing between the bulbs' original base and the new adapters? Or is it arcing within the bulb chamber but well behind the electrode tip? Or is it_ *arcing between the new adapter and the MBs' original contact*_? Have you tried to identify the location in a very dark environment (be very careful not to flash yourself if the bulb lights off)_
*The spark (very blue) is made between the new adapter and the MBs' original contact*


_Did you run the non-MB bulb in the momentary 75 Watt mode during the one run?_
*Gosh now I don't remember *

_I have a loaner MB Clone. I used Parkers' adapters and the same non-MB Ushio bulb in this light with no issues and many, many starts._

_Did you clean the bulb with hi-percentage alcohol and all the contact areas?_
*Yes, also metal parts, except from the spring assembly on top.*

_Does the original MB Ushio bulb still work ok?_
*I don't know as I don't have any other ballast/starter to use to run it...*

_On first blush, if you see arcing, then the ballast is PROBABLY OK (the ignition circuit, anyway). It seems like you might have a loose/electrically-poor contact issue or the power rating of the non-Ushio bulb is less than the MB-specific bulb and the non-MB bulb may have been damaged. Look closely at the metal ribbon connector material between the back end of the electrode and the bulb base for breaks._ 
*Ballast is OK, as the MB bulb works.*
*Regarding the Ushio UXL: the bulb **seems OK at a first glance... all i can hear when I fire it up is a buzzz but nothing more... no dust inside the arc chamber or anything else...*


*Today I'll try running it from the 12V DC socket of my car... *

*Any other thoughts given this new info?*

*Appreciate very much, thanks!*


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## BVH (Jun 21, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*



troller_cpf said:


> *BVH, I'll answer your questions on your post:*
> 
> _ Or is it arcing within the bulb chamber but well behind the electrode tip? Or is it_ *arcing between the new adapter and the MBs' original contact*_? Have you tried to identify the location in a very dark environment (be very careful not to flash yourself if the bulb lights off)_
> *The spark (very blue) is made between the new adapter and the MBs' original contact*
> ...



Am I understanding your answer above that the arcing you see is between the Parker adapter and the MB contact? If so, that is your problem. Starting Voltage is limited and designed to just jump a certain arc gap length. If you introduce other "gaps" (where the arcing you are seeing is taking place) they are cumulative and the ballast may not produce enough KV to jump the combined gaps. Is the non-MB bulb very tight in the adapter? It should be - mine was.

I added some possibilities after you replied so look at those - pertaining to the trigger wire and metal ribbon material. Get a magnifying glass and look very closely. If the metal ribbon connector is burned up/gone, then the high voltage will look for the next easiest place to jump and that could be in the adapter contact area.


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## troller_cpf (Jun 21, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

Thanks again!
1) What do you mean by "metal ribbon" ? Can you please show me it in a picture?
2) Themetal small wire (Trigger Wire) around the chamber on the UXL-75XE is NOT connected to the cathode or anode metal end... is just one wrap over the bulb... is it supposed to be that way or should it be connected to one end of the lamp like in the MB "Ushio" bulb? See picture...


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## BVH (Jun 21, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

In your pic of the bulbs sitting vertical - Look at bulbs 1 & 2. In fact, your black digit "1" and black digit "2" sit right over the ribbon. The Anode and Cathode electrodes are a solid and round piece of special metal with tapered tips at the gap. After these "round rods" leave the arc chamber, they are connected out to the lamp bases with a thinner and flatter piece of metal that the quartz seals around. This is the metal ribbon. If the bulb was driven with current to a point well beyond its' capability to handle, or it was just defective, it would most likely burn out a small piece of the ribbon (sort of how an automotive fuse might burn out) and you'd see some type of gap in it.

Well, with the trigger wire, I am not 100% sure. I have seen working bulbs built both ways. My only thought is that if the factory MB bulb Trigger is connected to the base, then so should the trigger wire on the bulb you're trying to replace it with. I would think that whether the TW does or does not connect, would be a factor/requirement of the electronics pkg, not the bulb but that is a guess on my part. (Do you see any evidence that the trigger wire was once connected to the base and that it might have partially burned up?)

But it sure sounds like your problem is back with the Parker adapter-to-MB contact if the arcing is taking place back there. You didn't mention how tight that connection is and the tightness of the bulb base-to-Parker adapter is?

My clone anode connection/metal contact to the bulb is a radial series of about 8 or so bronze or brass'ish looking fingers. Does the genuine MB have the same system?


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## troller_cpf (Jun 21, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

The adapter is a bit tiny bigger than the standard lamp, and so it needsa to be forced a bit inside the MB socket.
But surely it becomes well inserted! 

The MB socket is made of a center "hole" and a outer metal skirt. The current goes through the center or the outer skirt?


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## BVH (Jun 21, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

Without seeing it, chances are that the electrical connection is designed to go thru the outer skirt. How does the skirt get its' electrical connection? A separate wire or is it somehow connected to the "center hole" metal piece? The hole is primarily for alignment. So the skirt is more or less a solid ring into which the bulb base (parker adapter) goes into with some good, solid interference fit? (Mine also fit a bit tighter than the original bulb) Make sure, what ever you have to do, that all of those connections are very clean and very tight. You didn't mention the tightness of the Ushio bulb-to-Parker adapter? High Voltage makes this an imperative requirement.

EDIT: I just looked at my Ushio and although it's a bit difficult to make out when installed, I do not see any anode connection of the trigger.


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## troller_cpf (Jun 21, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

*I found the solution! *It is not a full-time solution, it is quite "strange" as solution, also because I still didn't find the problem.

The lamp works BUT it turned out that it ONLY works (light up) when I push it hard in the DEEPEST position, as to get the maximum flood beam. I need to press it hard down and manually "engage" the electonic zoom mechanism.
Once the lamp is deep down (the bulb is almost touching the reflector opening hole), the light turns on. Then I can move the zoom up&down as I wish, BUT, I NEED TO BRING IT BACK to full "down position" before turning it off and turning it on again!!!!

If I leave the bulb half-way, it will not start again!!

This surely has something to do with the Parker adaptor, but still I can't figure out how...

*Anyway:*
Now the light works, and tomorrow evening I'll be going to take a beamshot to compare it to the standard MB lamp, to see if the Ushio UXL-75XE is any better than the other...

stay tuned for beamshots, coming up soon!!

_PS: Thank you BVH for info and help!_


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## BVH (Jun 21, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

Glad you got it going to prove the bulb and ballast are ok. Just thinking out loud...What happens when the bulb/adapter ***'y is retracted. 1. The adapter front spring pressure is reduced. More later. Think I will open up the clone again to see what else is going on with the movement you need to do for startup.


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## BVH (Jun 21, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

95% sure I got it figured out. Keep in mind that the following comparisons are between the old straight tubular lamp and the standard, non-MB lamp with the large arc chamber. Also, I do not know if the configuration of your MB is the same as my clone in the area of where the bulb fits into its' seat and where your aluminum reflector support casting - those two pieces, come together.

Possible factor 1. Look at the original bulb Anode base length (not including the small pin) Look at the overall length of the Ushio bulb Anode base when fit inside the Parker adapter. Its about .025" to .030" longer which means that the Anode metal base/Parker assembly ends up closer to the aluminum reflector support housing where it funnels down in size right around where the bulb fits into its' hole. This is a potential grounding spot.

Factor 2. I took a diameter measurement of the old original bulb Anode base and then the Ushio fit inside the Parker adapter. It measures about .006" larger, which means each side is about .003" closer to that same part of the reflector housing support.

Are these enough to shorten the distance to this potential grounding spot and create a spark jump to ground? I'm not 100% sure but it looks very suspect when you factor in that when you move the focus mechanism all the way back, the metal bulb base/Parker adapter moves further away from the possible grounding spot.

My light has no issues starting in any focus position but again, I don't know if a Maxabeam is constructed like clone is in this area of the light.

A different subject: You're aware that there are outside accessible bulb X and Y positioning adjustments?


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## Parker VH (Jun 21, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

Troller, Very sorry to hear you're having problems with your light. Please keep me posted as I will do everything I can to make it right if it proves to be an adapter problem. I have had no problems with my Gen. 2 with the adapters and and the UXL 75XE bulb. On my original straight wall bulb without the adapters, the thin igniter wire, (trigger wire), was broken as such it would only ignite occasionally. You might get lucky and it would ignite twice in a row or you could try it 20 times and it wouldn't ignite.


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## BVH (Jun 21, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

Bob, any others report any problems? I'd guess you have quite a few out there and I've not heard of any other issues?

Any way you could measure the adapter-to-aluminum casting distance on your MB for comparison?

Troller, here's another thought. When I took my clone apart today, i noticed the X&Y position adjustments of the back of the bulb put the Anode base much closer to the aluminum casting on one side versus all other sides - so-to-speak. Do you think your adjustment could be out of whack creating an easy arcing distance? Mine could be out by as much as 1/8" + a bit more. The mounting hole for the lamp should end up pretty much centered within the back hole of the reflector.


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## troller_cpf (Jun 22, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

I don't know if I got "out of range" with the X&Y adjustments. What I usually do with every lamp I use is to center it by hand without the lens installed, get it as perfect as possible, and then close all and adjust it with the X&Y screws...

I was thinking also about the issue of the Anode base dimension... and other two thoughts came to my mind:
1) What if I DO NOT use the spring+sleeve on top of the lamp, the one that goes into the center hole of the lens?? Is that essential for the light to work? I'd say NO, as the return wire makes contact before the spring...
2) What if I unscrew the reflector assembly from the Electronic ECU? Could I find something useful down there? Example: I see closely the socket and see what I can do...


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## Parker VH (Jun 22, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

I have not had any negative reports from any other buyers. I will try the adapters on my second maxabeam tonite and see if there is any problem there. It sure seems odd but hopefully we can resolve this issue.


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## BVH (Jun 22, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*



troller_cpf said:


> 1) What if I DO NOT use the spring+sleeve on top of the lamp, the one that goes into the center hole of the lens?? Is that essential for the light to work? I'd say NO, as the return wire makes contact before the spring...
> 
> 
> 
> 2) What if I unscrew the reflector assembly from the Electronic ECU? Could I find something useful down there? Example: I see closely the socket and see what I can do...




The lamp would physically light up but it definitely needs support from the front support pieces to stay focused and not have the bulb flop around.

This is what I did yesterday and if my clone is anything like the MB, there is nothing to be gained by doing this.


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## Parker VH (Jun 22, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

I just tried the Ushio bulb with the adapters in my second Maxa Beam and it seemed to work fine. No problem igniting and I ran it all the in and out from spot to flood. The only thing I did notice was the light only stayed on high power mode if I hold the switch over. I thought it was supposed to stay on high for about 30 seconds or so? I'm pretty sure my other one does this. Maybe it's a function of the circuit board version?

BVH, What do you want me to try and measure? I don't know what you mean by the aluminum casting?


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## ma_sha1 (Jun 22, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*



Parker VH said:


> The only thing I did notice was the light only stayed on high power mode if I hold the switch over. I thought it was supposed to stay on high for about 30 seconds or so? I'm pretty sure my other one does this. Maybe it's a function of the circuit board version?



This is normal, all Maxa Beam does that.


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## BVH (Jun 22, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*



Parker VH said:


> BVH, What do you want me to try and measure? I don't know what you mean by the aluminum casting?


 
Troller, can you take out your bulb and do a macro/close-up photo of the bulb hole and surrounding area?

Having a clone, I have no idea what the real MB looks like in this area and it would be good to know if everything I've speculated on has any relevance. If they are different, then I'm wasting everyone's time.


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## troller_cpf (Jun 23, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE vs Nighthunter One - BEAMSHOTS ADDED!*

To BVH: Please don't make me open once again the lamp... sigh!! 

To Parker VH: any chance I can ask you to ship me, once you have the new batch of adapters, only one more of the LOWER piece... the one that goes into the MB socket?


*Anyway I managed to get it "going" (roughly), so I can post some beamshots!*

- Target is a telecom antenna 1,1 km far away (3600 ft)
- Camera is set on ISO 200, F2.8, 1" exposure


The three lights compared are:
- Maxabeam, Gen2 (G2-15) with Gen3 "Ushio" brand lamp (MB proprietary design).
- Maxabeam, Gen2 (G2-15) with Ushio UXL-75XE lamp and Parker VH adapter
- Xenonics Nighthunter One. This light also uses the Ushio UXL-75XE as standard


First up, Control Shot






Then we have Gen2 MB with Gen3 lamp





Then we have Gen2 MB with standard Ushio UXL-75XE bulb





Finally, just for reference, we have Xenonics NightHunter One







*Same pics, but Zoomed this time to the Antenna only:*

Control





MB Gen2 with Gen3 lamp





MB Gen2 with Ushio UXL-75XE





Xenonics NH1







*Some comments on above pictures:*

Xenonics NH1 uses, as a standard lamp, the Ushio UXL-75XE lamp, as it is. They just "insert" it in a lamp base and sell the whole piece, already factory aligned.
The MB with the Ushio UXL-75XE performed BETTER than with the original Peak Beam "Ushio" lamp. We can see from the pictures and I can also tell you by other tests I made (visually) without taking pictures.
So, in the MaxaBeam, the UXL-75XE standard lamp is BETTER than the CUSTOM one Peak Beam asked Ushio to make!!

In any case, the Xenonics NH1, even if it uses the UXL-75XE lamp, has a significantly lower performance than ANY Maxabeam (ALSO lower than the older MB with the older "ARC" tubolar lamp!). This is due most probably to the electronic circuit, that does not go over 65W of power and the reflector. I need to justify the NH1 anyway, because:
The lamp on the NH1 was pretty old, maybe the arc gap became a bit bigger
The NH1 features a so-damn-complicated-and-stupid lamp alignment system that I NEVER made it to perfectly align the ceter spot.. so it is out of alignment

But still, the NH1 is always defeated by the Maxabeam, but it is still veeeery cool  also as design... 

So now I ask myself (and I would like to ask Deb&Grant from Peak Beam: Peak Beam made a "mistake" once in choosing ARC brand over Ushio. Then they swapped to Ushio brand. When they swapped to Ushio, Ushio was already producing the UXL-75XE lamp. Why did they asked Ushio to custom make for them a lamp, which is different from the standard? Couldn't they just ask them to produce the metal extensions on a standard UXL lamp? ....
anyway... cheers!


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## Parker VH (Jun 23, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE vs Nighthunter One - BEAMSHOTS ADDED!*

Troller I can surely send you another btm adapter as they are all done but do you want me to machine one to a different specification for you? Do you think you found the problem?
Thanks.


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## troller_cpf (Jun 23, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE vs Nighthunter One - BEAMSHOTS ADDED!*

No as to now I can't find the problem.
But if you ship me a second btm adapter and still it does not work, it means that's my MB fault! then I'm sure I need to do something about it (still don't know what...)


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## ma_sha1 (Jun 23, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE vs Nighthunter One - BEAMSHOTS ADDED!*

Thanks for the beam shots!


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## Parker VH (Jun 23, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*



ma_sha1 said:


> This is normal, all Maxa Beam does that.



I checked my other light and high beam mode stays on for approx. 15 seconds then resets to low power? Wonder if this is a function of which circuit board the light has? I'll email Deb at Peak Beam and see what she says.


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## ma_sha1 (Jun 24, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

I remember a post from Rob, the Dir, of engineer at Peaks Beam, he stated if you hold the button to the right & don't let go,
they will stay on Hi constantly. If you just hit & release, it stay on for 30 sec.


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## troller_cpf (Jun 24, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*



ma_sha1 said:


> I remember a post from Rob, the Dir, of engineer at Peaks Beam, he stated if you hold the button to the right & don't let go,
> they will stay on Hi constantly. If you just hit & release, it stay on for 30 sec.


 
That's not exactly right.
The MB has got many programmable functions. One of these enables the user to choose whether he wants the High mode to be Momentary or Continuos.

Momentary mode: the user needs to hold the switch to the right as long as he wants high mode to stay on
Continuos mode: the user rockes the switch to the right once and the light stays on high mode for 16 seconds. He CANNOT get it back to normal mode, he needs to wait for the 16 seconds to elapse.

To program the function, there is a procedure that is described in the operator manual (also downloadable from the website).

cheers!


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## Parker VH (Jun 24, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

Troller, PM sent concerning the btm. adapter.


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## troller_cpf (Jun 24, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*



Parker VH said:


> Troller, PM sent concerning the btm. adapter.


 
nothing received yet...


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## Parker VH (Jun 24, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

PM me your shipping info. so I can send you out another btm. adapter. I don't know why the message didn't come through before?


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## troller_cpf (Jun 24, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

PM replied on the Marketplace. Thanks!


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## troller_cpf (Jun 24, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

*So, concerning the beamshots...*

*any thoughts/comments? *


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## Parker VH (Jun 25, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

Troller, I sent out another btm. adapter today. Let me know when you receive it and hopefully we can figure this out.


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## Walterk (Jun 25, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

It is nice to see the bulbs in comparison!
Great photo-job on that distance.

Edit: replaced the bulb for uxl in my Waxabeam.
Will test Huygens XML, Waxabeam UXL and Maxabeam end of august.


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## BVH (Jul 5, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

Any report back on this?


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## PB1 (Jul 6, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*



BVH said:


> Somewhat randomized thoughts and not any conclusions yet. Sort of talking to myself.
> 
> Your 4S Lipo will peak at 16.8 Volts, 14.8 is nominal. As long as the MB ballasts' input Voltage range is good up to 16.6 or so, the ballast will work ok.
> 
> ...


 

Just to let you know the MB ballast is only safe until about 13.8vdc (running). Anything higher can cause damage. 
The standard UXL-75XE lamps are a different voltage, arc gap, and wattage and will reduce output as a result. In addition the standard Ushio is rated for 400 hours instead of 1500. You may also find that your beam level and strobe functions no longer work. Of course if you are comparing this to an original ARC lamp or an older Ushio you may see an increase. As always YMMV...

Robert
PBS


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## Walterk (Jul 6, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*



PB1 said:


> Just to let you know the MB ballast is only safe until about 13.8vdc (running). Anything higher can cause damage.
> The standard UXL-75XE lamps are a different voltage, arc gap, and wattage and will reduce output as a result. In addition the standard Ushio is rated for 400 hours instead of 1500. You may also find that your beam level and strobe functions no longer work. Of course if you are comparing this to an original ARC lamp or an older Ushio you may see an increase. As always YMMV... Robert PBS



'Break the seal, loose the warrant' never hold me back and I am glad for it.


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## troller_cpf (Jul 6, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*



PB1 said:


> Just to let you know the MB ballast is only safe until about 13.8vdc (running). Anything higher can cause damage.
> The standard UXL-75XE lamps are a different voltage, arc gap, and wattage and will reduce output as a result. In addition the standard Ushio is rated for 400 hours instead of 1500. You may also find that your beam level and strobe functions no longer work. Of course if you are comparing this to an original ARC lamp or an older Ushio you may see an increase. As always YMMV...
> 
> Robert
> PBS



My Gen2-15 MB came already "broken", as it has got some problems in the ECU, the strobe only works momentary and I cannot change rate/duty, and it has also some problems in keeping the right voltage.
I have tried it also with LiFePo batteries and the classical 12V car socket (engine running idle), but it has a ECU problem.

So I'm not concerned that much about over-voltage 

When I'll buy a new MB, IF I find the money , I'll use the original PeakBeam battery for sure!


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## PB1 (Jul 6, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*



troller_cpf said:


> My Gen2-15 MB came already "broken", as it has got some problems in the ECU, the strobe only works momentary and I cannot change rate/duty, and it has also some problems in keeping the right voltage.
> I have tried it also with LiFePo batteries and the classical 12V car socket (engine running idle), but it has a ECU problem.
> 
> So I'm not concerned that much about over-voltage
> ...


 

Have you tried to re-seat the chip? Many of the Gen 2's suffered from chip creep. You could also upgrade to a gen3 board pretty easily for much less $$ than a new Maxabeam. I'm not sure what you meant by " it has also some problems in keeping the right voltage". Gen 2 lights running low voltage lamp = possible explosion. The UXL-75xe has a voltage spec of 11-14 volts. I would say anything below 12.5v could be trouble. Its the luck of the draw I suppose. I'm just trying to be helpful. 

Robert
PBS


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## BVH (Jul 6, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

Robert, thanks very much for the technical info on the differences in your Ushio bulb and the standard UXL75XE. This type of info is very helpful. If I understand the above...The standard Ushio 75XE has a voltage range "at the bulb" of between 11 and 14 Volts and the MB ballast will quite possibly over-drive it because it's set up for your specific bulb which probably has a higher Voltage range?


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## Parker VH (Jul 6, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

I was told by Deb @ PeakBeam that the Maxa Beam has an operating range of 10-13.5 volts if this helps?


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## ma_sha1 (Jul 6, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

I run my gen II on 4xLifepo4, Nominal 4x3.3v=13.2v.
However, the actual Volt of Lifepo4 fresh off the charger is 3.6v each, not 3.3V. 4x3.6=14.4v.

I never had any problems.

earlier this year, Peaks Beam released new li-ion battery using lifepo4 as well. 
http://peakbeam.thomasnet.com/item/all-categories/10ah-lifepo4-battery/mbp-1310
I had to believe it's 4SXp set up as well, as 3S is not enough. Which means the ballast is good for *AT LEAST 14.4V battery*. 

However, under load, the voltage sag will bring it down probably by at least one volt, which means the ballast will see ~13.4V with fresh 4SxP Lifepo4 battery.


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## PB1 (Jul 7, 2011)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*



ma_sha1 said:


> I run my gen II on 4xLifepo4, Nominal 4x3.3v=13.2v.
> However, the actual Volt of Lifepo4 fresh off the charger is 3.6v each, not 3.3V. 4x3.6=14.4v.
> 
> I never had any problems.
> ...





Yes I am referring to voltage _under load_ at the input connector... The lamp voltage is another story. The UXL-75XE is less than ideal as a replacement as the operating voltage range is lower than the ballast would like to see. 

Robert
PBS


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## electromage (Apr 23, 2012)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

*Troller*, can the NH1 bulb be replaced with a standard Ushio UXL-75XE or is it absolutely necessary to buy the whole unit?


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## troller_cpf (Apr 29, 2012)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

The bulb itself is a standard UXL-75XE, but the whole assembly is custom made by Xenonics, and the anode, instead of just being connected to a returning wire, is soldered on the base of the assembly, so that the whole bulb assembly can be inserted and removed as a one-piece.

If you have some patience and minimum tools/skills, I'm pretty sure that you can take an existing NH1 assembly, "cut off" the UXL bulb and replace / resolder it...


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## Colonel Sanders (Apr 29, 2012)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

*"Momentary mode: the user needs to hold the switch to the right as long as he wants high mode to stay on
Continuos mode: the user rockes the switch to the right once and the light stays on high mode for 16 seconds. He CANNOT get it back to normal mode, he needs to wait for the 16 seconds to elapse."*

Now I don't know if my Gen III was special ordered this way from the factory, sent back later for programming or what (since I am not the original owner) but it works like this. I can program the high mode to be momentary when the stick is rocked right or I can program it to be continuous when rocked right...and by continuous I mean there is no 16 second time limit as described in the manual. It will stay on high until the battery goes dead or until I rock the stick to the right again.


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## BVH (Apr 29, 2012)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

Certain Gen 3's are the way you describe. Do you have the LiFeP04 battery?


Added: I guessed the light included the LiFeP04 battery as PB programs latching high on LiFeP04 equipped lights only.


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## Colonel Sanders (Apr 30, 2012)

*Re: Maxabeam & Ushio UXL-75XE*

Right, it has the LiFePO4 pack. I was out last night with the Barn Burner in one hand and the Maxabeam in the other (it just doesn't get much better than that!)....damn do these things draw alot of BUGS!!! I was under attack by kamikaze moths.


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