# Finished AN/VSS-3A Project



## eyesonfire (Oct 10, 2015)

UPDATE 10/24/2015..... Beam shots at page #16.. Moon in background, and IR shots.

After 2yrs of waiting for parts to be found on the net, I have completed the VSS-3A Tank Light....

This weekend I will take some pictures of it in action,
I found out what the surprize connector that is in some control boxes is for.
I was lucky to get a cable that fit the light, but not the control box , unless that fine thread to course thread connector was used. problem was I dont have one.
The cable would kind of screw on, but the smaller pins would not make contact, so the blower fan and beam adjustment did not work. So I cut off the course ring. Now the cable seats all the way down. Everything works. 

I just could'nt wait any longer to find an adapter, I wanted to see the thing light up with the blower working of course.
Anyway I am very happy, and want to say thanks to BVH for his help with some of my questions. You sure know your stuff.

This was a fun project. Next on the list is a Nighthunter 2 mod...

Here are a few VSS-3A pictures.







[URL="http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/michaelbaileysd/media/2015-10-09%2020.34.39_zpscsplchsu.jpg.html"]



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## FRITZHID (Oct 10, 2015)

I'm not jealous. Not even slightly. Nope. Not at all.


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## eyesonfire (Oct 17, 2015)

First test video inside, in both infrared and visible modes.
iPhone does not do the light justice.
Night shots are next.. Stay tuned.

https://youtu.be/zGepaBUu_3w​


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## BVH (Oct 17, 2015)

Do you have the equipment to measure current draw both immediately after start-up and then 2 or 3 minutes later when boost is complete? Be fun to see what yours draws versus mine.


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## eyesonfire (Oct 17, 2015)

Yes, I do. I am taking some night video/pics tomorrow or monday. I will take some measurements then, when the light will be on longer.
The power supply is 24 volts with the pot turned up to 28 volts, and is rated for 50 amps.
It seems that the light draws less though.
Thanks again for your info on this project.


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## BVH (Oct 17, 2015)

If I remember correctly, I thought these should be in the 60 Amp range. Not 100% sure, though. It will draw less if your PS is not actually providing 28 V under load. Did you check Voltage under load? The light is not regulated so less Voltage = less Amps and less total power, more Voltage = more Amps more power to the lamp. My "guess" is you're under-driving it by quite a bit at 50 amps. These lights (also the VSS-1) don't "sing" unless you feed them 28+ Volts under load. I should probably get mine out and fire it up to see what's what.


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## FRITZHID (Oct 17, 2015)

BVH said:


> If I remember correctly, I thought these should be in the 60 Amp range. Not 100% sure, though. It will draw less if your PS is not actually providing 28 V under load. Did you check Voltage under load? The light is not regulated so less Voltage = less Amps and less total power, more Voltage = more Amps more power to the lamp. My "guess" is you're under-driving it by quite a bit at 50 amps. These lights (also the VSS-1) don't "sing" unless you feed them 28+ Volts under load. I should probably get mine out and fire it up to see what's what.



I agree! Let her stretch her legs! Burn off that dust!


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## eyesonfire (Oct 18, 2015)

When I turn on power the psu drops to 27 volts then steady at 28 without any change. 
The psu is a Unipower jp5000. I am connected to 115v allthough it can accept 230v also.
It has a inrush current of 75 amps @ 1200 watts.
Also using m-13486/1-14 Mil-spec super duty 0 AWG cable.
So I will measure the draw with both voltages when I take it outside.


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## BVH (Oct 18, 2015)

I just read your previous post above about the PS only being rated to 50 Amps. I guess that's all she's got to give. You need a BIGGER one!


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## eyesonfire (Oct 18, 2015)

The specs on the VSS-3 manual NSN 5855-00-058-1293 Show max current of 52 amps. Under load the jp5000 psu holds solid at 28 volts.
The manual also gives a range of 22 to 28 volts. Do you think I can get more out of the light. I would rather run it just under spec and not push the already vintage unit. 
What do you think?


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## PolarLi (Oct 18, 2015)

I have never put my hands on a unit like this, but it sounds to me it get what it needs. However you may have a slight voltage drop in cables and connectors, so could be interesting to measure voltage behind the input connector. (I assume the control box don't alter the voltage?)
Anyway, looking forward to some night shots!


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## BVH (Oct 18, 2015)

Give me a few days and I'll break out mine and see what she takes. I may be thinking about my NightSun when talking about Amps in the 60's. 50 would certainly seem correct for a total power consumption of around 1400 watts - 1000 to the lamp and 400 overhead for circuitry.


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## eyesonfire (Oct 18, 2015)

Sounds good. I will have some numbers also. And some night shots. By the way. Do you know some good camera settings.


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## PolarLi (Oct 18, 2015)

Don't know if you asked me, but If you plan to use your iphone, just turn off the light (on the phone  ) and leave it in auto. Should get decent results. If you have a good compact or DSLR plus a tripod, take a look here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?409326-Need-HelpTaking-Beam-Shots-Tips-And-Tricks


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## BVH (Oct 18, 2015)

With my Canon S5is, 12 MP camera, I think my best shots were around 4 to 5 seconds at f3.5. This resulted in a more optimistic "print" than in real life but after the downsizing to fit CPF, they were pretty much real life.


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## eyesonfire (Oct 25, 2015)

Here are some night shots.. Moon in the background.


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## FRITZHID (Oct 25, 2015)

....... ,!,,.


That being said. 
Nice shots! Your lucky, well financed *******! Lol


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## eyesonfire (Oct 25, 2015)

It was a waiting game trying to find the needed cable, control box, etc to get it up and running, But worth it.
Lucky? yes....... Thanks for the comment.


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## FRITZHID (Oct 25, 2015)

eyesonfire said:


> It was a waiting game trying to find the needed cable, control box, etc to get it up and running, But worth it.
> Lucky? yes....... Thanks for the comment.



:thumbsup:


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## PolarLi (Oct 25, 2015)

Love it :thumbsup: and almost no spill, that's really neat!


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## BVH (Oct 25, 2015)

The photos are fairly close to realistic. Maybe just a TAD less exposure time so that the white-hot spot is not completely bleaching out the shrubbery. Nice shots! MORE distance, please! Like 3/4 to 1 mile???


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## eyesonfire (Oct 26, 2015)

Question... Is there a aftermarket xenon bulb that would work in the VSS-3A. 
Or does someone have one they would like to sell?

After taking pictures I fired it up one last time, but it wont stay lit. It strikes but quickly goes out. Any ideas.


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## BVH (Oct 26, 2015)

Both LarryK and myself have often talked about the lack of VSS-3 lamps for sale anywhere. VSS-1 lamps show up once in a while but neither of us has seen a VSS-3 lamp for sale. The only source seems to be to buy the whole light for a spare lamp. But then chances are high that the lamp will not survive shipping unless the light is strapped to a pallet and handled with a fork lift. It should be removed and shipped separately and most sellers will not do this. 

It doesn't sound like a lamp issue. If the lamp lost its pressure/gas fill, it would likely not ignite at all. If the IR shield was not there, during ignition, you would see the spark repeatedly jumping the gap but no ignition. The fact that it ignites and then briefly stays lit is describing a functioning ignition and boost circuits but a failing "run" circuit in the power supply system. I have not had to trouble shoot this symptom so am not much help beyond the foregoing. Although, I remember reading in the manual that after the ignition and boost circuits have occurred, raw 28V DC input power is fed directly to the lamp going only through the strip ballast resistor that is located in the cooling air stream and visible through one of the back cover mesh covered outlets. This brings down the running lamp voltage to 22V. You could check continuity with an Ohm meter. I don't know the value but as long as it shows some Ohms and not an "open" then you could assume it is OK. Have you taken off the back cover to poke around looking for anything obvious? It might also be easier to Ohm the ballast resistor from the inside. Unclip the 4 clamps and bump off the cover being careful to not let it hang by the three white wires. Set it up on something, mark and undo the wires then do your testing and inspecting. 

You would need a lamp extractor to remove the lamp. If you are going to do this at any point, be sure to use heavy duty protective clothing covering your entire front body and a face shield for your face. You could make a extractor or I could ship mine to you for your use and return. I made a makeshift extractor for LarryK and could guide you in making one out of a typical shop vac plastic extension wand.

Did your cooling fan continue to run for a few minutes after you shut down the light after a long run? There's a thermostat near the lamp that keeps the fan engaged as long as the lamp temp is at operating and somewhat lower temps and as long as DC input power is still being fed to the control box.


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## eyesonfire (Oct 26, 2015)

Thanks for the reply..
When I last had the light open, I did check the shunt resistor and it read very little resistance that I remember. I will check again.
I ran the light for 15 minutes with the fan working the whole time, even after shut down at the control panel it stayed on for a while.
But then I used it again and it would stay lit for about 2-3 seconds only. You may be correct about my PS being under powered, as stated from your earlier posts.
If it is the lamp, maybe there is a new one very close that could be made to fit. Thanks for the caution you always give to all that play with these lights.
They can really hurt you if not careful. It was great seeing it working though. Your correct about some of the pictures being a bit over exsposed. Guess I will do some detective work and also try a different PS.


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## BVH (Oct 27, 2015)

I didn't mean to imply any problems with your Meanwell power supply. When I mentioned "power supply system" above, I meant the power supply circuits within your light and control box. I don't suspect anything with your meanwell.(unfortunately) I don't remember if the schematics in the manual are detailed enough to see the different electrical paths for the ignition pulse, boost circuit and "run" circuit. If so, try to isolate the components that are in the run circuit to narrow down trouble shooting. You could also remove the front window and remove the front cover plate of the hub to gain access to the front electrical connection to the lamp. Check for any corrosion or other impediments to current flow. Maybe there is some resistance present that doesn't affect the higher voltages and currents during ignition and boost but do affect the lower voltages and currents of "run"?


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## eyesonfire (Oct 27, 2015)

Thanks. I will give that a try also. When I painted the light, I pulled the insides out as a whole by removing the 4 outer bolts. It was very clean, no water damage or loose wires. You could see the great looking work involved in the unit. To bad it has to be hidden in the shell. Work of art for sure. Thx for your help.


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## eyesonfire (Oct 28, 2015)

The clicking is coming from the psu. I thought it was the light making the noise. Question. If it is the ps, would not it do this from the get go?


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## BVH (Oct 28, 2015)

Difficult to say without being present and observing in-person. Do you have access to a couple of Group 24 or Group 27, 12 Volt Automotive SLA's that you could wire in Series to test the light? They will power it just fine for testing and will at least let you know if it's the PS or light.


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## eyesonfire (Oct 28, 2015)

That was next on the list. At least I will know if its the psu. Thx.


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