# 4 x AA Light?



## CalgaryGuy (Jan 17, 2010)

I'm looking for something that is similar to a Turtle Light, something that uses 4 x AA.

The Fenix TK40 is similar to what I'm looking for but it's a bit too long and I'm looking for something shorter.


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## sol-leks (Jan 17, 2010)

Maybe the ITP Polestar? It uses 6xAA.

There aren't many quality 4xAA lights.


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## Dioni (Jan 17, 2010)

I dont know this turtle...

Something like the Streamlight Propolymer?


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## monkeyboy (Jan 17, 2010)

Check out the LED Lenser Frogman.

I posted my opinions here. OK but not great.


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Jan 17, 2010)

Most 4AA lights--both incans and LEDs--can be found at Brightguy.com.


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## CalgaryGuy (Jan 17, 2010)

Dioni said:


> I dont know this turtle...
> 
> Something like the Streamlight Propolymer?



A Turtle Light looks something like the fat one on this review.

http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/craftsman_endurable.htm

Unfortunately, I'm unable to locate a picture of the Turtle Light as it's so old. The 4 AA battery are put beside each other, on the back of the LED.

You could sort of picture the Fenix TK40 cut into half and uses 4 AA instead of 8 AA.


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## CalgaryGuy (Jan 17, 2010)

Thanks for the links, I'm also looking for something that has a large reflector for throw purpose. ITP Polestar seem to be okay but I'll keep looking for now. Will probably settle with the ITP Polestar if I can't find the one that I like.


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## Illum (Jan 17, 2010)

Dioni said:


> I dont know this turtle...
> 
> Something like the Streamlight Propolymer?



I miss the turtlelight
its uh....4AA yes, but its a single 5mm LED light that's designed so rugged that it can take a beating. There were two versions, both discontinued I think...

first version had only 1 LED
http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/turtle.htm

second had two
http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/turtle2.htm


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## nikon (Jan 18, 2010)

The Turtlelight was made by Dorcy, who then came out with their own version in a yellow color. I have several of these. They take a standard bulb with a PR flange. Anyone interested in one please feel free to PM me.


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## hyperloop (Jan 18, 2010)

LED Lenser P14 is a 4xAA light.


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## Scott_T (Jan 18, 2010)

Dorcy has the cyber light now that's 4xAA. The streamlight propoly is an oldy but a goody. I dont care much for the pelicans with the reversed LED, too tight a beam. The coast lenser p14 is my dream light but just cost too much.


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## LED_Thrift (Jan 18, 2010)

I have three 4xAA lights that I can think of right now. 


http://img209.imageshack.us/i/4aafront1544.jpg/
To the right of the Dorcy labeled "Turtle Light" is the ProPoly 4AA which is much brighter, with more throw, than the Turtle. It runs three plus hours in regulation before dimming [at a medium rate].

On the far right is a UnderwaterKinetics [UK] 4AAeLed which has a nice wide angle beam, and about 2/3 the output of the ProPoly. It throws about half as well as the ProPoly. It runs ten plus hours in regulation, with a slow decline after that, making it great for camping among other things. AFAIK the 4AA eLed is no longer produced, UK now makes a similar light with [at least] two stages, the low being the same output as my 4AA eLed. 

All three lights are good battery vampires, with the UK eLed being exceptionally good at that. All three are very water resistant, and all have very good tints.


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## Dioni (Jan 18, 2010)

Illum and LED_Thirft:
Thanks for the info! lovecpf

It looks great except for its old emitter.

Cheers,
Dioni


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## CalgaryGuy (Jan 18, 2010)

LED_Thrift said:


> I have three 4xAA lights that I can think of right now.
> 
> 
> 
> To the right of the Dorcy labeled "Turtle Light" is the ProPoly 4AA which is much brighter, with more throw, than the Turtle. It runs three plus hours in regulation before dimming [at a medium rate].



What I need is something with good throw that runs off a 4 AA... Always though that a TurtleLite is best because of the large reflector. Maybe I'll keep an eye out for Propolymer type of light.


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## gswitter (Jan 18, 2010)

The ProPoly still throws surprisingly well. The reflector isn't particularly wide, but it's relatively deep.

I'd love to see a ProPoly with a XP-E or XP-G someday.


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## mn_doggie (Mar 3, 2010)

The Phantom Warrior series are a 4 AA light(s). They are hard to get unless you have a military/law enforcement connection. Once in a while you can find one on eBay. 

They have some very unique features.


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## ginaz (Mar 3, 2010)

gswitter said:


> I'd love to see a ProPoly with a XP-E or XP-G someday.



+1

i really love the form of the dorcy light. would love a modern version


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## chenko (Mar 3, 2010)

I just cannot understand why 4AA flashlights aren't being offered on the market, I'd seriously want one good led flashlight like that. :shrug:


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## joe1512 (Mar 3, 2010)

4xAA is kind of an odd configuration. A 2x2 config makes for a flat rectangle, which doesn't jibe with the standard tube shape that they go for.

For a power user, a single 18650 will go a lot further.

If you are ok with a 4xAA config's size, then you mine as well step up to a 6xAA itp Polestar or 8xAA Fenix TK40.


From what I hear, TK40 has a good deal more throw than the Polestar. It is meant to be more of a balance brtween throw and flood.


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## gswitter (Mar 3, 2010)

joe1512 said:


> 4xAA is kind of an odd configuration. A 2x2 config makes for a flat rectangle, which doesn't jibe with the standard tube shape that they go for.
> 
> For a power user, a single 18650 will go a lot further.
> 
> If you are ok with a 4xAA config's size, then you mine as well step up to a 6xAA itp Polestar or 8xAA Fenix TK40.


2x2 AA's (like the Streamlight ProPoly pictured previously) can be a very comfortable size, and has the advantage of running on a common cell that can be picked up anywhere. And for me, 3x2 and 4x2 AA configurations feel considerably larger than 2x2.

4x Eneloops has essentially the same amount of energy as the highest capacity 18650's on the market, and there are plenty of higher capacity NiMH AA's. Plus, a 4xAA light wouldn't requite a buck/boost circuit to run most single LEDs in regulation.


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## jugornot (Mar 3, 2010)

The ITP is not a thrower. It has decent throw with a great wide spill. The 3xaa dereelight Javelin is as good a thrower as the A6 with less spill. I will probably try a xre instead of the xpg pill to see if it throws better. The Javelin is very near the A6 overall. The polestar will be my gp house light and the Javelin a play toy for testing drop ins. In its long form 3xaa, the Javelin is very good if long.


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## Toaster (Mar 3, 2010)

Nothing official has been announced yet. But I do believe Zebralight is working on a 4xAA light. Apparently they are developing two lights known so far as S5200 and S5400. On Zebralight's web site, there are preliminary specs for the S5200. Judging by the naming scheme, that would make the S5400 a 2x2 AA light.


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Mar 3, 2010)

joe1512 said:


> If you are ok with a 4xAA config's size, then you mine as well step up to a 6xAA itp Polestar or 8xAA Fenix TK40.


Except that the vast majority of AA chargers can charge no more than 4 cells at at time, and the vast majority of AA portable cases hold 4 cells.


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## Locoboy5150 (Mar 3, 2010)

joe1512 said:


> If you are ok with a 4xAA config's size, then you mine as well step up to a 6xAA itp Polestar or 8xAA Fenix TK40.



Also, don't forget or overlook the fact that the Fenix TK40 fully operates in all modes and with all the same brightness with just 4 AA cells as it does with a full load of 8 AA cells. That flexibility is a nice feature and one of the most overlooked features of the TK40.


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## kramer5150 (Mar 3, 2010)

gswitter said:


> 4x Eneloops has essentially the same amount of energy as the highest capacity 18650's on the market, and there are plenty of higher capacity NiMH AA's. Plus, a 4xAA light wouldn't requite a buck/boost circuit to run most single LEDs in regulation.



??? wouldn't you need at least a buck converter? AA eneloops are ~1.45V hot off.

No ones mentioned the Deft yet... definitely a 4AA


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## Toaster (Mar 3, 2010)

kramer5150 said:


> ??? wouldn't you need at least a buck converter? AA eneloops are ~1.45V hot off.



Of course you would need a buck converter. His point is that 4AAs in serial would maintain voltage over LED vF regardless of charge. So there would be no need ever for a buck/boost circuit to maintain perfect regulation. That's obviously not true for 1x18650 powered lights.



> No ones mentioned the Deft yet... definitely a 4AA



I thought about mentioning it. But the market appeal of a $200+ aspherical is very limited and not that relevant to this thread, despite it's battery config.


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## gswitter (Mar 4, 2010)

Toaster said:


> kramer5150 said:
> 
> 
> > gswitter said:
> ...


What he said. My point didn't come out as clear as I'd hoped.

C'mon, Streamlight. Update the ProPoly 4AA already!


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## william lafferty (Mar 4, 2010)

Elektrolumens made an excellent 3 x aa light some time ago. Very bright and lots of throw. Occasionally you see one for sale on CPF or Wayne at Elektrolumens may have one laying around.


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## Lynx_Arc (Mar 4, 2010)

compared to the old 4AA lights of years ago a 2AA light with an up to date emitter can put out the same amount of light for about the same amount of time I believe or more light for less time.


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Mar 4, 2010)

*Re: 4 x AA Light and P60 drop-ins?*



LED_Thrift said:


> On the far right is a UnderwaterKinetics [UK] 4AAeLed which has a nice wide angle beam, and about 2/3 the output of the ProPoly. It throws about half as well as the ProPoly. It runs ten plus hours in regulation, with a slow decline after that, making it great for camping among other things. AFAIK the 4AA eLed is no longer produced, UK now makes a similar light with [at least] two stages, the low being the same output as my 4AA eLed.



Can you tell us whether the UK 4AA can accept--and light up--a P60 drop-in? If so, it's for me.


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## gswitter (Mar 5, 2010)

Lynx_Arc said:


> compared to the old 4AA lights of years ago a 2AA light with an up to date emitter can put out the same amount of light for about the same amount of time I believe or more light for less time.


Sure, but the same emitter driven just as hard in a 4AA can run twice as long. A little more, even.

I'm not suggesting more batteries, just for the sake of more, is better. For me, going from 2x2 AAs to 3x2 AAs is significant because I have yet to find a 3x2 host that's as comfortable to carry as a 2x2. But I actually find the SL ProPoly 4AA more comfortable to carry than most 2AA's - it just fits right in my hand. And for me, there are benefits to running 4 AAs over 2.


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## ginaz (Mar 5, 2010)

gswitter said:


> - it just fits right in my hand. And for me, there are benefits to running 4 AAs over 2.



+1


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## Phaserburn (Mar 5, 2010)

For me the benefit, besides fit, is that a 4AA with moderate drive level can be a good light for alk cells, which most AAs with "modern" drive levels are not (if you want decent runtime).

I would grab a SL Propoly w/ XP-E/G in a minute.


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## Toaster (Mar 5, 2010)

On the other hand 4xAA can drive a XP-G at it's maximum rated current of 1.5A, giving us 493 emitter lumens for around 80-90 minutes :devil:


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## Phaserburn (Mar 5, 2010)

Toaster said:


> On the other hand 4xAA can drive a XP-G at it's maximum rated current of 1.5A, giving us 493 emitter lumens for around 80-90 minutes :devil:


 
Yeah, but so can a single 18650. 4AA lights tend to be plastic, so I think lower drive levels are a better fit.


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## Toaster (Mar 5, 2010)

I'm confused, I thought this was a thread about _AA_ lights, not li-on? Most flashlights in general are plastic. Doesn't mean a high quality metal 4xAA light can't be made.


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## gswitter (Mar 5, 2010)

True, but unless you opt for using a battery holder sick2, machining a 4AA light is relatively expensive.


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## Toaster (Mar 5, 2010)

Well what would be more preferable to you?

1. Metal body with battery holder. Average price.
2. Metal body with integrated battery holder. Expensive.
3. Plastic body with integrated battery holder. Cheap

I think most people on this forum would go for option 1.


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## gswitter (Mar 5, 2010)

Take a poll. I'm definitely in camp #3. _(Though, FWIW, most of the 4AA lights I've owned and seen don't really have battery holders - they're just molded to accept four cells.)_

I don't imagine everyone is (or was) a fan of the SL 4AA, but if you were to ask the fans what they liked about it, the cheap price would probably rate pretty high.


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## LEDninja (Mar 5, 2010)

You can get the Propolymer at corporatesupply Winnipeg online store.
http://www.corporatesupply.ca/store/index1.html?lang=en-ca&target=d62.html&lmd=0.5558216364102554

911supply in Calgary carries Streamlight but does not show the Propolymers on their website.


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## LED_Thrift (Mar 6, 2010)

Paul_in_Maryland said:


> Can you tell us whether the UK 4AA can accept--and light up--a P60 drop-in? If so, it's for me.


Sorry, I don't have a P60 [or any other] dropin to check. [yikes  I'm a CPF poser!] The LED module is about 1.25" long and includes the reflector, which is about 1" diameter.


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## don.gwapo (Mar 6, 2010)

Get a Led Lenser P14. It's a 4xAA light. Nice flood and throw.


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Mar 6, 2010)

LED_Thrift said:


> Sorry, I don't have a P60 [or any other] dropin to check. [yikes  I'm a CPF poser!] The LED module is about 1.25" long and includes the reflector, which is about 1" diameter.



That's what I've hoped to hear. That's darn close to a P60 module. I've just ordered an Underwater Kinetics UK14107 -- the yellow front-switch version of the 4AA helmet light. The black front-switcher is UK14108. Just $27 shipped from Mikcreek Outdoors. Naturally, I'll report here in this thread whether any of my incan or LED P60 modules fit and operate in both constant and momentary modes. If I haven't reported back by April 1, someone PM me!


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## Phaserburn (Mar 6, 2010)

I had wondered about this myself. Thanks for taking one for the team, Paul.


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## OceanView (Mar 6, 2010)

Phaserburn said:


> For me the benefit, besides fit, is that a 4AA with moderate drive level can be a good light for alk cells, which most AAs with "modern" drive levels are not (if you want decent runtime).


+1 on the alks

And as others have said, I find 4AA to be a comfortable form factor to hold.



> I would grab a SL Propoly w/ XP-E/G in a minute.


Please, Santa! Please, oh, please...! oo:


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## alvinyhwong (Mar 7, 2010)

DEFT FTP! :naughty:


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## carl (Mar 7, 2010)

I was recently looking for a 4aa led and these are some I came across:

dorcy 41-2498 25 Lumens - 4AA LED Floating Flashlight
Dorcy 41-2492 45-Lumens 4AA LED Battery Indicator Flash
Dorcy 41-4218 dial-a-light 4aa-led 3-Way Waterproof
Dorcy 41-4750 180-Lumen 4AA High Flux LED Cyber Light Flashlight
Energizer-Eveready 02278 TUF4AAPE 4AA HARD CASE PROFESSIONAL SERIES
Energizer WRCLD41E Weather Ready(r) Compact LED Light
Energizer TUF421PE 4 AA LED Swivel Head
Energizer Double Bright LED Flashlight w/ 4AA 
Energizer Battery Inc CLED4AA-E Compact LED Flashlight

Does anyone know of an updated "best aluminum" ledcorp 4aa?


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Mar 13, 2010)

*Underwater Kinetics 4AA will NOT accept a D26 drop-in*

Thinking of buying an Underwater Kinetics 4AA body to host a D26 drop-in? Think again. The UK requires a slimmer drop-in than a D26.

Here's the UK 4AA next to its UK lamp assembly. To the right are a Lumens Factory D26 xenon lamp assembly and a Malkoff D26 drop-in LED (an M30WF). The UK lamp is noticeably smaller.





The UK lamp assembly snug in the UK 4AA body; to the right, the UK 4AA bezel:





See that shallow yellow ridge? That's what prevents the two D26 modules (far-right and center) (from seating.





This is as far into the UK 4AA as a Lumens Factory D26 drop-in will go, even without a spring:





And this is as far in as a Malkoff drop-in will go:





But I'm not giving up: I'm going to file away the ridge to see whether that will provide enough clearance for a D26 module. I'll report back in this thread.

All the other 4AA 2x2 bodies (Streamlight and so on) have much wider heads--typically, 1.6 or 1.7 inches, vs. 1.25 inches. For those of us who want a 4AA that we can slip into a pocket, the UK remains the great yellow hope. :laughing:


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## Lynx_Arc (Mar 14, 2010)

*Re: Underwater Kinetics 4AA will NOT accept a D26 drop-in*

perhaps a drill press would be easier to work on that ridge


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## Scott_T (Mar 14, 2010)

I've wondered about the life expectancy of a propoly with a 3 watt LED because of its plastic body reducing heatsinking.


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## CM2010 (Mar 14, 2010)

What about the LED Lenser M14?

http://www.brightlites.co.uk/content/product_view.asp?cid=1&pid=264


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Mar 14, 2010)

Can the M14 accept D26-size drop-ins?


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Mar 14, 2010)

*Re: boring out an Underwater Kinetics 4AA (volunteers?)*



Lynx_Arc said:


> perhaps a drill press would be easier to work on that ridge



Lynx Arc, you're right. The ridge isn't just a slim ledge; it goes deep. I don't have the tools or the know-how. I'm willing to pass my UK 4AA to someone else who will try the next step for the good of the order. Would you care to take it...and keep it, in exchange for reporting whether you were able to get a D26 drop-in to fit and work?

If Lynx Arc isn't in interested...is anyone else?


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Mar 14, 2010)

If anyone's interested in a long-body 4AA, I've put my 4AA FiveMega up for trade. It's actually a 3x18650 that I tried, unsuccessfully, to adapt for 4AAs.


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## chenko (Mar 14, 2010)

What about the Princeton Tec Impact XL ? There are 2 versions, it's fairly cheap, takes 4AA, it is approved for hazardous locations and fully waterproof to 100mt. Seems interesting! :naughty:


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Mar 14, 2010)

chenko said:


> What about the Princeton Tec Impact XL ? There are 2 versions, it's fairly cheap, takes 4AA, it is approved for hazardous locations and fully waterproof to 100mt. Seems interesting! :naughty:



The diameter is 45mm, or 1.8 inches, according to this seller's page.


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## chenko (Mar 14, 2010)

Paul_in_Maryland said:


> The diameter is 45mm, or 1.8 inches, according to this seller's page.



45mm is the external max diameter, right? I bet a 26.5 dropin could fit in some way. I don't know, I don't have that flashlight nor any P60 drop-in.
I wonder if a different solution could be arranged, instead of dropins, but that would be trickier of course. :mecry:


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Mar 14, 2010)

*UK 4AA package, directions (instructions)*

External diameter, correct.

Here are scans of the UK 4AA's package and directions.


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## Lynx_Arc (Mar 14, 2010)

*Re: boring out an Underwater Kinetics 4AA (volunteers?)*



Paul_in_Maryland said:


> Lynx Arc, you're right. The ridge isn't just a slim ledge; it goes deep. I don't have the tools or the know-how. I'm willing to pass my UK 4AA to someone else who will try the next step for the good of the order. Would you care to take it...and keep it, in exchange for reporting whether you were able to get a D26 drop-in to fit and work?
> 
> If Lynx Arc isn't in interested...is anyone else?



If I had a digital camera I would try to fix it for you, I have had luck using a drill press to bore out pr base bulb holders to fit magled dropins converting 2 cell plastic incan lights to LED. I could probably do it but it should be done by someone able to share the results with a camera.


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## carl (Mar 14, 2010)

Does anyone have the factory Underwater Kinetics LED? How does the low-hi switch work?

UK4AA eLED® Zoom Front Switch (CI D2)

thanks


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## GarageBoy (Mar 15, 2010)

The Princeton Tec Amps look nice


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## gswitter (Mar 16, 2010)

GarageBoy said:


> The Princeton Tec Amps look nice


They do. Unfortunately, they're flashlights, and in that regard, they are wholly unimpressive.


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Mar 16, 2010)

gswitter said:


> They do. Unfortunately, they're flashlights, and in that regard, they are wholly unimpressive.


They don't have to be impressive if they can be fitted with a high-ouput aftermarket drop-in and high-performance AA cells.


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## GarageBoy (Mar 16, 2010)

Well, the Amps are Rebel 100 and the Amp 5 has a 5mm low mode, so what is there not to like? 70 lumen high is plenty useful and should run for a decent time


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## baterija (Mar 16, 2010)

Streamlight Survivor is a 4AA light. It's an angle head though.


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## glockboy (Mar 16, 2010)

How about 2 Quark 2AA tape together.


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## carl (Mar 16, 2010)

Are there any 0.5 watt LED drop-in modules for the Underwater Kinetics eLED 4AA or 3AA?


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## defloyd77 (Mar 16, 2010)

GarageBoy said:


> The Princeton Tec Amps look nice



I have the 4AAA version with the 4 5mm Nichias, the body itself is pretty nice, but the switch turns on way too easily, can't lockout and you have to hold it for like 3 seconds to turn it off. I believe someone on here had the AMP 5 and they returned it because it's Rebel beam quality wise sucked.


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## gswitter (Mar 17, 2010)

Paul_in_Maryland said:


> They don't have to be impressive if they can be fitted with a high-ouput aftermarket drop-in and high-performance AA cells.


You realize it's a plastic host and won't be able to dissipate _any_ heat? (It could make a good battery roaster!)

It _might_ (I haven't taken measurements) be possible to make an adapter that would accept a standard drop-in, but the development time required to design and build it (the adapter would need to include the switch) would be better spent IMO designing a dedicated P60 host from scratch.

If you're really dying to try converting a plastic 4AA light to accept a standard drop-in, I'd start with the ProPoly Luxeon - not only does it look possible, if you or someone you know can machine delrin, it might even be easy. You'd still have the heat issue though.



GarageBoy said:


> Well, the Amps are Rebel 100 and the Amp 5 has a 5mm low mode, so what is there not to like? 70 lumen high is plenty useful and should run for a decent time


Both beams are ugly to the point of distracting. The beam profile from the 3x 5mm's doesn't vary enough from the primary beam to justify the 5mm array (should have just given the primary LED two levels). And the 5mm beam is the typical, ugly cool temp.



defloyd77 said:


> I have the 4AAA version with the 4 5mm Nichias, the body itself is pretty nice, but the switch turns on way too easily, can't lockout and you have to hold it for like 3 seconds to turn it off. I believe someone on here had the AMP 5 and they returned it because it's Rebel beam quality wise sucked.


Probably me - I've bitched about this light a few times. I never return lights, unless their defective, but I was tempted with the Amp 5.0.


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## carrot (Mar 17, 2010)

Could you describe what makes the Amp 5's beam "ugly" in more detail? As it is one of the most modern 4AA lights, I am somewhat curious about it.

Also, the UK 4AA eLED Zoom seems to have a modern emitter if its claim of 77 lumens is correct. I have been pretty happy with the build quality of UK lights, seems this one is worth looking into.


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Mar 17, 2010)

gswitter said:


> You realize it's a plastic host and won't be able to dissipate _any_ heat? (It could make a good battery roaster!)


Point well-taken; with a plastic body, you're left with only LED options. But for most of us, that's OK. Even for me, a onetime hotwire. In my recent test, three NiMH AA cells and three NiZn AA cells couldn't power a Lumens Factory high-output lamps to respectable levels. See my results, with beamshots.


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## defloyd77 (Mar 17, 2010)

carrot said:


> Could you describe what makes the Amp 5's beam "ugly" in more detail? As it is one of the most modern 4AA lights, I am somewhat curious about it.
> 
> Also, the UK 4AA eLED Zoom seems to have a modern emitter if its claim of 77 lumens is correct. I have been pretty happy with the build quality of UK lights, seems this one is worth looking into.



The Pelican Little Ed and Stealthlite, both 84 lumens, however they are recoil LED's with tight beams. Oh and there's Gerber's Cree'd Carnivore (XP?) which is an angle head light with a main beam and a secondary beam with red and blue 5mm LED's for blood tracking if you're into that kind of thing.


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## CM2010 (Mar 17, 2010)

Just got a LED Lenser M14 which takes 4 AA:


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## chenko (Mar 17, 2010)

I just found the UK 4AA eLed zoom comes also in right-angle flavours  and orange too!


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## vio765 (Mar 17, 2010)

glockboy said:


> How about 2 Quark 2AA tape together.


 
This is a pretty good idea! a little foam between them and zipties to secure them. I might do this! thanks for the idea!:twothumbs


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## GrnXnham (Mar 17, 2010)

I'd buy a light like the Fenix TK-40 but make it a short stubby 4AA light so that it looks like the Dorcy Solid state that someone posted a pic of on page one of this thread. So keep it thick like the TK-40, but a couple of inches shorter because it's only 4AA.

But instead of the Dorcy, have it be a decent quality light with a metal body for around $100. 

How about Fenix making it and calling it the "One Half TK-40"? Use the same head as the TK-40 but eliminate the turbo mode because 4AA batteries can't handle it. Instead just have the low, med, high of the TK-40.

Yeah, I'd buy that.


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## carl (Mar 17, 2010)

chenko said:


> I just found the UK 4AA eLed zoom comes also in right-angle flavours  and orange too!



That head is rotate-able too. It has a 2 stage switch for hi-low (see Brightguy for more info - it comes on hi first). It also is regulated, and will power down if it gets too warm according to the UK home site. 

That clip could be trimmed, placed at the end, and possibly used for tail-standing. The 4AA model is a bit tall for tail-standing stability. The newest version, called the 3AA eLED CPO is much shorter and probably more stable for tail-standing. The 3AA version does not have a 2 stage switch though. I was told all of these models with rounded edges will not tail stand without some help of some kind. 

Does anyone on CPF know how to do a mod to decrease the power consumption on these UK eLED modules and increase runtime?


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## carl (Mar 17, 2010)

GrnXnham said:


> I'd buy a light like the Fenix TK-40 but make it a short stubby 4AA light so that it looks like the Dorcy Solid state that someone posted a pic of on page one of this thread. So keep it thick like the TK-40, but a couple of inches shorter because it's only 4AA.
> 
> But instead of the Dorcy, have it be a decent quality light with a metal body for around $100.
> 
> ...



How about the Aluminum/Rubber Dorcy 41-2491?
http://www.dorcy.com/products.aspx?p=412491


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## gswitter (Mar 18, 2010)

carrot said:


> Could you describe what makes the Amp 5's beam "ugly" in more detail? As it is one of the most modern 4AA lights, I am somewhat curious about it.


The primary beam has decent flood, but the hot spot looks like someone put their thumb in it - uneven with lots of artifacts in it. I find it pretty distracting, and I'm not sure how they managed to do that with a Rebel + smooth reflector combo. The 3x 5mm beam is awful - blue, lots of artifacts and reflections from the offset emitter positions, and it's surprisingly concentrated for 5mm's. And, again, unless there's a ridiculous improvement in efficiency from the 5mm array over the primary LED, I don't understand the point of the latter. The profiles of the two beams just aren't significantly different - certainly not enough to justify the added complexity.

When I first read about the light, I was hoping for a LunaSol for the masses, and with a little surgery, it might be that. But it looks like someone had the right idea when they designed it, but someone else was responsible for selecting the LEDs, and the latter was either hamstrung or didn't care (or maybe blind).

The host itself isn't too bad. It's not as comfortable to hold as the ProPoly (little too wide, IMO), but the switch is in a better position, and it looks like it might have decent water resistance. The tactile feel of the switch is pretty awful, though.



Paul_in_Maryland said:


> Point well-taken; with a plastic body, you're left with only LED options.


:thinking:


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## Locoboy5150 (Mar 18, 2010)

GrnXnham said:


> How about Fenix making it and calling it the "One Half TK-40"? Use the same head as the TK-40 but eliminate the turbo mode because 4AA batteries can't handle it.



Four Eneloop AA batteries work just fine in my TK40 when I operate it in turbo mode. High quality batteries are a must though, but not like anyone around CPF is devoted to leaky alkaline batteries anyway.


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## defloyd77 (Mar 18, 2010)

GrnXnham said:


> I'd buy a light like the Fenix TK-40 but make it a short stubby 4AA light so that it looks like the Dorcy Solid state that someone posted a pic of on page one of this thread. So keep it thick like the TK-40, but a couple of inches shorter because it's only 4AA.
> 
> But instead of the Dorcy, have it be a decent quality light with a metal body for around $100.
> 
> ...



If they went this route, it might be wise to ditch the MC-E and go for the XP-G instead. Even better yet make it a neutral XP-G and give it a rubber grip and making it the big brother of the TK-20/TK-21.


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## ginaz (Mar 19, 2010)

defloyd77 said:


> If they went this route, it might be wise to ditch the MC-E and go for the XP-G instead. Even better yet make it a neutral XP-G and give it a rubber grip and making it the big brother of the TK-20/TK-21.



yes to both these suggestions


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## GrnXnham (Mar 19, 2010)

carl said:


> How about the Aluminum/Rubber Dorcy 41-2491?
> http://www.dorcy.com/products.aspx?p=412491



25 lumens? Ugh


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## GrnXnham (Mar 19, 2010)

Locoboy5150 said:


> Four Eneloop AA batteries work just fine in my TK40 when I operate it in turbo mode. High quality batteries are a must though, but not like anyone around CPF is devoted to leaky alkaline batteries anyway.



Sure, it will work on turbo, but it needs to be made user friendly. 

Remember that a lot of people want the option of using their light with rechargables OR alkalines and don't want to have to remember to not use turbo because they have alkalines in there. From the manufacturer's standpoint it would simply be easier to eliminate turbo mode rather than dealing with angry customers returning their light for a refund when something melts.


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## chenko (Mar 20, 2010)

defloyd77 said:


> If they went this route, it might be wise to ditch the MC-E and go for the XP-G instead. Even better yet make it a neutral XP-G and give it a rubber grip and making it the big brother of the TK-20/TK-21.



Dig it a lot! :thumbsup:


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## Swedpat (Mar 21, 2010)

defloyd77 said:


> If they went this route, it might be wise to ditch the MC-E and go for the XP-G instead. Even better yet make it a neutral XP-G and give it a rubber grip and making it the big brother of the TK-20/TK-21.



You can add me to the agreeing list! :thumbsup:
I would suggest a 3 mode version with revolving switch and 10, 100 and 250 lumens...

Regards, Patric


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## moviles (Apr 4, 2010)

CM2010 said:


> Just got a LED Lenser M14 which takes 4 AA:



I like it

more info please !!!!!!!!!

internal body diameter?

lens diameter?

good heat disipation?(dropin pictures please)

led star size?


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## CM2010 (Apr 4, 2010)

Product description:

http://www.brightlites.co.uk/content/product_view.asp?cid=1&pid=264


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## moviles (Apr 4, 2010)

CM2010 said:


> Product description:
> 
> http://www.brightlites.co.uk/content/product_view.asp?cid=1&pid=264



you have this flashlight?

dropin pictures?

im loking for some host like this for make a powerfull flood to throw flashlight

internal body diameter? can be mooded with 26500 or 32500 batteries? and with 26650/32650?

the lens appear to be 35-38mm lens, but I want know the exact diameter

the led have 20 mm star ?


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## CM2010 (Apr 4, 2010)

Just took a few pics not sure if they are of any use to you,cant take any measurements as i'm at my gf's and she has no tape or ruler.

As for it getting hot its get warmish and that was after leaving it running for about a hour and a half on the highest setting.

It does extend about 3 quarters of an inch in length to put it on a spot beam,the other flashlights in the pic are the P7 and EagleTac T20C2 Mark II.


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## moviles (Apr 4, 2010)

ty for the pictures


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## McAllan (Apr 4, 2010)

Nice to see the LL M14!

Does anybody know whether the M series are regulated or not?

I know the P14 and P7 (the AAA variant) but I've never really regarded them very high from a flashaholic POV because of the ancient resistor "driver". 
At least to the price they're asking they could have driven them with some AMC7135 or a similar construction. That would have resulted in 100% NiMH compatibility (some say NiMH are driving the LED a little too hard on high) not to mention much better regulation while still preserving some light "moon mode" eternities after the cells are considered empty.


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## PhantomPhoton (Apr 4, 2010)

No it's not regulated and still has the lousy UI/ switch that make many of us loathe the brand. Which is too bad because I really want a 4AA light as well.


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## Andrew7 (Apr 7, 2010)

PhantomPhoton said:


> No it's not regulated and still has the lousy UI/ switch that make many of us loathe the brand. Which is too bad because I really want a 4AA light as well.



The P14 is also quite expensive yet seams to be offering the same as what you would get if you purchased one of the best 2x AA lights (at a much lower price) and carried a second set of 2x AA's to swap in for longer run-time. 

Its a shame that Fenix or 4sevens/quark don't offer a 4x AA light (although Fenix do offer the HP10 headlight which is 4xAA).

The other thing I would like is a cheaper version of the TK40 since it can run on 4 or 8 AA's. The ITP Polestar A6 is a great price for a 6X AA torch - maybe the solution is to buy one of them plus a 2x AA Quark and then that takes up 2x sets of 4AA's untill someone can make a great 4AA torch at a reasonable price.


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## McAllan (Apr 7, 2010)

PhantomPhoton said:


> No it's not regulated and still has the lousy UI/ switch that make many of us loathe the brand. Which is too bad because I really want a 4AA light as well.





Andrew7 said:


> The P14 is also quite expensive yet seams to be offering the same as what you would get if you purchased one of the best 2x AA lights (at a much lower price) and carried a second set of 2x AA's to swap in for longer run-time.



It seems like you're both talking about the P14 while I'm talking about the M14 

Just take a look at the pictures posted earlier! The M14 is a lot like P14 but updated with proper multi mode etc. And it is so new that it's not on all their local web pages yet.
Would be nice is someone could clarify whether that being properly regulated or not or they've just put in a FET to act like an electronic switch and otherwise kept it the same as the P14.

And one thing LED Lensers have which I have not seen any others have except a few low Q lights - a focusable TIR lens able to go from pure flood to pure spot. Whether you like that or not is up to your preference and use. But I'll very much like to have such light in my collection if only they will bring the electronics up to same modern standard and quality as the mechanical side of their lights.


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## Boostedvl (Apr 7, 2010)

What about a 1d mag with malkoff xp-g dropin 4aa battery holder & 4 eneloops. I know that would work well If it is within your budget.


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## McAllan (Apr 7, 2010)

Boostedvl said:


> What about a 1d mag with malkoff xp-g dropin 4aa battery holder & 4 eneloops. I know that would work well If it is within your budget.



I've heard that these malkoof dropins are hard to get your hands on. And then you need to either buy or make your 1D. Oh well, guess if you can make your own 1D then you really easily should be able to make your own malkoof drop in. After all it's basically "just" a piece of turned alu, a driver and a LED.

Might throw pretty good but not have the nice flood or focus practically without flood. Played a little with a P14 at the shop were I bought my XL100.
Might very well be they're outdated electronically but optical and the quality you feel when you get it in your hands - playing with it - focusing etc. - is very top notch for a mass produced item.


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## greenLED (Apr 7, 2010)

The PT Amp line is pretty nice. I have an Amp 4.0 that I'm currently testing. It's built tough, and so far it's survived my youngest son (can't say that of the Dorcy Cyberlight, which I keep having to repair...).

The only quirk on the Amp 4 is that the small SMT switch is either too sensitive, or the plastic tab that's on top of it (to facilitate the action from the outside switch boot) is too thick. The result is that if you twack the light sideways a certain angle from the switch, the light will turn on.


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## carl (Apr 7, 2010)

greenLED said:


> The PT Amp line is pretty nice. I have an Amp 4.0 that I'm currently testing. It's built tough, and so far it's survived my youngest son (can't say that of the Dorcy Cyberlight, which I keep having to repair...).
> 
> The only quirk on the Amp 4 is that the small SMT switch is either too sensitive, or the plastic tab that's on top of it (to facilitate the action from the outside switch boot) is too thick. The result is that if you twack the light sideways a certain angle from the switch, the light will turn on.



One review of the Amp 5 said it wasn't shock resistant - if dropped from about 5-6 ft, the batteries would have an intermittent battery contact problem. Is this the case with the Amp 4?


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## GarageBoy (Apr 9, 2010)

McAllan said:


> I've heard that these malkoof dropins are hard to get your hands on. And then you need to either buy or make your 1D. Oh well, guess if you can make your own 1D then you really easily should be able to make your own malkoof drop in. After all it's basically "just" a piece of turned alu, a driver and a LED.
> 
> Might throw pretty good but not have the nice flood or focus practically without flood. Played a little with a P14 at the shop were I bought my XL100.
> Might very well be they're outdated electronically but optical and the quality you feel when you get it in your hands - playing with it - focusing etc. - is very top notch for a mass produced item.


You don't need a Malkoff, Mag mods are easy. 
Glue LED to the heatsink, stick driver under (the old fashioned method, if you don't plan on ever swapping the driver ever again is to stick the driver under the sink and dump the thermal epoxy over it, potting it into place) and use a shark sink and wire the whole thing together. I just don't like the form factor of 1D


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## McAllan (Apr 9, 2010)

GarageBoy said:


> You don't need a Malkoff, Mag mods are easy.
> Glue LED to the heatsink, stick driver under (the old fashioned method, if you don't plan on ever swapping the driver ever again is to stick the driver under the sink and dump the thermal epoxy over it, potting it into place) and use a shark sink and wire the whole thing together. I just don't like the form factor of 1D



Yes it's not as difficult as it sounds. However when I do make something I tends to do it with a feel of quality. I'd then go to a family member with a lathe and make a Malkoff style drop in. That should not be a big problem - at least not if you cut the switch assembly (don't know if the Malkoff requires this). The big problem for me will be perhaps bore it and at least cutting it down since I have no possibility to cut a new thread.

But you will still not get the unique beam of a good TIR lens. Have you ever seen one? I mean not the mediocre TLE-300M drop in. Yes it's useful and sort of powerful but beam is really nothing special.
The LED Lenser on flood will give you a "moon mode beam". That is pure flood without hot spot of any kind. The same for spot zoom. Here you will get pure hot spot with practically no spill. Stray spill there will always be there but nothing compared to the spill from a traditional reflector light.

If you've not seen one then go to a local dealer and ask for a demonstration of one. A P7 or P14 is quite OK too if he don't have any M series for demonstration purpose of what's the beam is like.


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## greenLED (Apr 9, 2010)

carl said:


> One review of the Amp 5 said it wasn't shock resistant - if dropped from about 5-6 ft, the batteries would have an intermittent battery contact problem. Is this the case with the Amp 4?


:shrug: My son's dropped the Amp4 plenty of times now and I haven't noticed any quirks (other than the one I reported). I'll keep checking and report later.

The batteries do rattle inside the body (I'm nitpicking - I actually think it's a very nice light for its intended purpose.).


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## carl (Apr 9, 2010)

Does anyone know where i can buy a cool blue Dorcy 41-2750 aluminum 4AA side switch LED light or the identical old ledcorp best aluminum led light?


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## carrot (Apr 9, 2010)

carl said:


> Does anyone know where i can buy a cool blue Dorcy 41-2750 aluminum 4AA side switch LED light or the identical old ledcorp best aluminum led light?


I'm not sure, but DorcyDirect.com is the immediate and obvious choice. There's a discount listed over on the CPFMP too.


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## carl (Apr 9, 2010)

Here's the reply i got from Warren outdoor

Hello Carl,

No, we can no longer get the Ledcorp flashlights. They had to go out of business due to a Chinese company illegally (per Ledcorp president) importing them into the USA. According to him, he gave them permission to reproduce his patented bulbs to sell in the Asian market only. They did not keep up their end of the bargain. Too bad....they were a very good flashlight using his bulbs.

We do have a limited number of the Ledcorp replacement bulbs available on our website. The ones we have were manufactured by hand in Akron, OH.

Thanks for asking,
Paul Almashy

Warren Custom Outdoor
3034 Aris St NW
Warren, OH 44485
Phone: 330-898-1475
Fax: 330-898-2562
www.warrencustomoutdoor.com
www.eezox.com


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## carl (Apr 9, 2010)

carrot said:


> I'm not sure, but DorcyDirect.com is the immediate and obvious choice. There's a discount listed over on the CPFMP too.



Carrot,
I am waiting for a reply from them. thanks carl


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## colonelz (Jan 4, 2012)

Try a Phantom Warrior TLS - great light. Not really bright, but very very versatile.
















Might be hard to get, but well worth it!


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## brandocommando (Jan 5, 2012)

This thread is almost 2 years old...


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## ampdude (Feb 9, 2012)

I'd really like a updated ProPoly type light, especially in HCRI form.

4AA configuration is really great. I love any light that is bright and runs off of common, cheap alkaline cells.


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