# Streamlight Survivor Led



## ernsanada (Sep 29, 2006)

Bottom 






Open latch to release battery carrier.






Hinge on opposite side.





















Top






Close up of switch.






Lens bezel removed. 3 Watt Luxeon Emitter.






Got lucky on the Luxeon Lottery, white tint! Beamshot @ 8"






Beamshot @ 72"






Left, Streamlight Proploymer 1 Watt 4AA. Right, Streamlight Survivor LED @ 8"






Left, Streamlight Proploymer 1 Watt 4AA. Right, Streamlight Survivor LED @ 36"







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Got the Streamlight Survivor LED at Fox International. Shipping to Socal took 1 week.


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## Phaserburn (Sep 29, 2006)

Excellent pics! It's hard to judge brightness difference between the Propoly and Survivor. What are your live observations?


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## ernsanada (Sep 29, 2006)

The Survivor has a tighter corona. The Proploymer has a wider corona.

Looks to me that the Survivor will out throw the Proploymer.

I also got a good tint in the Survivor. My Propolymer has a slight green tint to it's beam.


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## ernsanada (Sep 29, 2006)

Got my Streamlight Survivor LED from, http://www.fox-intl.com/searchresult.asp?id=3489


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## ringzero (Sep 29, 2006)

Thanks ernsanada, great job on the pics.

These pics make me really want to order the Survivor LED, even though I don't really need it, it's just so cool...

Looks like it would be the ultimate light to keep in the car trunk for road emergencies. Also a great emergency light to keep at home.


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## ernsanada (Sep 29, 2006)




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## Lite_me (Sep 29, 2006)

After looking at your beamshots I can say that mine has a much tighter spot than yours. But it has the tint of your PP 4AA. Thanks for all the shots.


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## srvctec (Sep 29, 2006)

ernsanada said:


> Got my Streamlight Survivor LED from, http://www.fox-intl.com/searchresult.asp?id=3489



Ordered mine from there as well a week ago and haven't received it yet.

How long did it take for you to receive yours?

Great pics BTW!!


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## ernsanada (Sep 29, 2006)

srvctec said:


> Ordered mine from there as well a week ago and haven't received it yet.
> 
> How long did it take for you to receive yours?
> 
> Great pics BTW!!



My Survivor took 7 days to Socal.


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## srvctec (Sep 30, 2006)

ernsanada said:


> My Survivor took 7 days to Socal.



Well, I hope I get mine sometime next week. I can't believe it would take more than 3 or 4 days from Ohio to Kansas, but then what do I know.


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## ernsanada (Sep 30, 2006)

Looking up towards the top where emitter is located. Note the heatsink, large.


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## eebowler (Oct 4, 2006)

The heatsink is the 'C' shaped thingy underneath the board with the springs? 

Is the LED and emitter or star epoxied or screwed down to the heatsink?

Thanks for the pics!


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## Lite_me (Oct 4, 2006)

eebowler said:


> *The heatsink is the 'C' shaped thingy underneath the board with the springs?*
> 
> Is the LED and emitter or star epoxied or screwed down to the heatsink?
> 
> Thanks for the pics!


*Yes, that shows a part of it. This pic shows it better. That whole black cage surrounding the board acts as the heatsink. 

* And you can't see any in this photo but my light has some epoxy oozing out the side indicating that the board is epoxyed in.
*




*


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## Mr. Blue (Oct 4, 2006)

do you run it on alks?
how is the runtime?
how is it for outdoor use? too much of a spot?
I was just looking at this at Brightguy


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## eebowler (Oct 4, 2006)

thanks.


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## johnstrong (Oct 4, 2006)

stunning isnt it?
i discovered that the orange colour is not identical to the advertised one. the foto given by the manufacturer is actually red. but the piece in real is more 'orange' so i changed my mind to order a yellow one.
could that be a problem of my LCD?


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## Archangel (Oct 11, 2006)

Does the orange do the "glow" thing that some yellows do when exposed to UV? For that matter, does the yellow?


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## srvctec (Oct 11, 2006)

Archangel said:


> Does the orange do the "glow" thing that some yellows do when exposed to UV? For that matter, does the yellow?




The yellow does. I just screwed in my incan blacklight bulb into a fixture to check it (my only source for UV- need to get me a UV flashlight  ) and it does indeed "glow" as I thought it might just by looking at the color of yellow it is.

I don't have an orange one to check it out.


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## Mr. Blue (Oct 12, 2006)

Mr. Blue said:


> do you run it on alks?
> how is the runtime?
> how is it for outdoor use? too much of a spot?
> I was just looking at this at Brightguy



oh and is it regulated?


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## Mr. Blue (Oct 18, 2006)

any thoughts?


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## V8TOYTRUCK (Oct 27, 2006)

many props to Streamlight for coming out with affordable and dependable LED lights!


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## ernsanada (Oct 27, 2006)

I sent back my Survivor LED to Streamlight on 10/19/06 to have the light fixed. srvctec found problems when the light is shaked the light goes out. I also had a problem when I tried to turn the light on sometimes it would turn not turn on. It would turn on the second try.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136060


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## Lite_me (Oct 27, 2006)

Thanks for keeping us posted.


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## V8TOYTRUCK (Oct 30, 2006)

Are these things pretty waterproof? Its similar to the PP Lux 4AA in brightness? I was pretty impressed with the SL PP 4AA Lux, for the price. This one does have a nice burn time and its rechargable....hmm.


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## Lite_me (Oct 30, 2006)

V8TOYTRUCK said:


> Are these things pretty waterproof? Its similar to the PP Lux 4AA in brightness? I was pretty impressed with the SL PP 4AA Lux, for the price. This one does have a nice burn time and its rechargable....hmm.


They are not waterproof. They are water-resistant according to Streamlight. There is a thread somewhere where a guy through his in the bathtub. It didn't work after that.  Water got inside. 
It _is_ similar to a SL PP 4AA but more of everything. Brightness, throw & spill. 
The rechargable setups are more expensive than the plain 4AA ones.


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## ernsanada (Oct 31, 2006)

I just got back my "repaired" Survivor LED. Looks like I got a different light. This light has a different color tint. The beam now has a very slight green tint to the beam. My other light had a "HID blue" color to its beam. My other light was able to focus the light to a smaller corona.

I think the repair that was done was that the springs that hold down the battery carrier are longer. It also looks like the "repaired" light has a larger spacer in the center of the board to stop the rattle. Nothing was done to the battery carrier. I opened up the carrier to check it. With the carrier out of the light, when the carrier is shaken the batteries rattle as before. 

This is a picture of the inside of the battery carrier before I sent the light back. 







This is a picture of the "repaired' light. Note the center of the board. Looks like a large spacer is installed to stop the rattle.






Beamshot of the original light. Note the sharper focus of the corona.






Beamshot of the "repaired" light. Looks like the luxeon is little off center.






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I am dissapointed I did not get my original light back.





Total time from shipping the light back to Streamlight and then getting the light shipped back to me took 13 days. The light was shipped 2nd day air back to me.


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## ernsanada (Oct 31, 2006)

I had a tag tied on my metal clip. On the tag it said "switch board assy". Maybe the whole board with the luxeon assembly was changed out. I am not sure. I should have put some kind of mark on my Survivor LED before I sent it in.


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## Gnufsh (Oct 31, 2006)

The body does have a serial number on that, the next person to send one in should write that down so they can check.

edit: the orange body does glow under uv.


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## Lite_me (Oct 31, 2006)

ernsanada said:


> I just got back my "repaired" Survivor LED. Looks like I got a different light. This light has a different color tint. The beam now has a very slight green tint to the beam. My other light had a "HID blue" color to its beam. My other light was able to focus the light to a smaller corona.
> 
> I think the repair that was done was that the springs that hold down the battery carrier are longer. It also looks like the "repaired" light has a larger spacer in the center of the board to stop the rattle. Nothing was done to the battery carrier. I opened up the carrier to check it. With the carrier out of the light, when the carrier is shaken the batteries rattle as before.
> 
> ...


 This is encouraging.  Sorry. If you recall, I have said that I was not happy with my Survivor. The tint is green, and if you think your LED is off-center, have a look at mine! I'm gonna have to contact Streamlight to get mine repaired... ah_ replaced. I'll take the chance on a replacement. Hah... I don't think I could do any worse. 
I figured they would just replace the LED assembly. It would be the easiest. 

Take a look at this smear...  :mecry:






Thanks for the update.


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## srvctec (Oct 31, 2006)

ernsanada said:


> I think the repair that was done was that the springs that hold down the battery carrier are longer. It also looks like the "repaired" light has a larger spacer in the center of the board to stop the rattle. Nothing was done to the battery carrier. I opened up the carrier to check it. With the carrier out of the light, when the carrier is shaken the batteries rattle as before.



This is exactly what Charlie from Streamlight said would be done- increase the length of the springs while also using larger diameter wire for the springs (see my post #19 here.) He also said *nothing* would be done to the carrier.



> I am dissapointed I did not get my original light back.



You may very well have gotten your original light back as replacing the entire light engine with board assy would be the easiest and quickest repair for them to do, I would think- other than replacing the entire light, obviously. 

This is part of the reason why I repaired my own- I didn't want to take a chance on getting a poor tint and beam pattern. I was happy with the centering of the LED beamwise and the tint isn't to bad unless compared to another light- by itself, it looks totally white.


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## ernsanada (Oct 31, 2006)

Lite_me said:


> This is encouraging.  Sorry. If you recall, I have said that I was not happy with my Survivor. The tint is green, and if you think your LED is off-center, have a look at mine! I'm gonna have to contact Streamlight to get mine repaired... ah_ replaced. I'll take the chance on a replacement. Hah... I don't think I could do any worse.
> I figured they would just replace the LED assembly. It would be the easiest.
> 
> Take a look at this smear...  :mecry:
> ...



You might get lucky and get a good tint.


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## ernsanada (Nov 10, 2006)

ernsanada said:


> I just got back my "repaired" Survivor LED. Looks like I got a different light. This light has a different color tint. The beam now has a very slight green tint to the beam. My other light had a "HID blue" color to its beam. My other light was able to focus the light to a smaller corona.
> 
> I think the repair that was done was that the springs that hold down the battery carrier are longer. It also looks like the "repaired" light has a larger spacer in the center of the board to stop the rattle. Nothing was done to the battery carrier. I opened up the carrier to check it. With the carrier out of the light, when the carrier is shaken the batteries rattle as before.
> 
> ...



When I took off the lens assembly it looks like the "spacer" does not touch the carrier. The springs have more "windings" in it.


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## ernsanada (Nov 10, 2006)

Original light before I sent it in for repair.






The returned light, after being repaired.


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## ernsanada (Jul 13, 2007)

Beamshot of the original light. Note the sharper focus of the corona.






Beamshot of the "repaired" light. Looks like the luxeon is little off center.






Changed out the "repaired light" which was off center and had a slight green tint to a SSC-P4.

Survivor SSC-P4 @ 78"






Survivor SSC-P4 @ 78" Stepped down exposure.


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## Lite_me (Jul 13, 2007)

Oh my gosh... I just ordered some SSC P4's to mod my Survivor with! It will be my first attempt at a mod. My Survivor has a pukey green emitter that is off-center. Yuck!

Can I ask you a couple questions? 

Did you remove the assembly to do the swap or work through the lens opening? Was it very hard to reassemble the clip? (if you removed it) 

And what size (thickness)shim did you use, if any? Do you think that was critical as to focusing? Did you have to shave the bottom of the reflector any. 

Run in to any difficulties? 

Guess that's more than a couple of questions,  I'll stop there.

Appreciate any suggestions. The beam looks great!


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## ernsanada (Jul 13, 2007)

Lite_me said:


> Oh my gosh... I just ordered some SSC P4's to mod my Survivor with! It will be my first attempt at a mod. My Survivor has a pukey green emitter that is off-center. Yuck!
> 
> Can I ask you a couple questions?
> 
> ...



I used a .027 copper shim from Sandwhich Shoppe. I used this size because I remember somebody used a .030 shim and had to shave off the back of the reflector. I figured with a .027 no shaving is required. The beam seems good to me.

I pulled out the light assembly and soldered it that way. It may be easier to pull out the assembly because it's easier to work on.

The hard part is putting the clip back on. You need to remove the clip to get to the 2 screw that remove the light assembly. 

Read this thread because there is useful information in there. I posted some ideas I used to get that clip back on.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/153311


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## ernsanada (Jul 13, 2007)

Pay close attention how the spring fits on the clip. It will save you some troubles trying to figure it out. I think a good idea is to draw a diagram how the spring fits. I did not do that and had some problems.

I was lucky jtice, John was also doing the same mod. We were able to share some ideas on how to get that clip back on.

We both had spent sometime trying to figure how to put that clip back on.


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## Lite_me (Jul 13, 2007)

I took a good look at the spring & clip. I could tell by looking at it beforehand that it would be a bear to get back together, that's why I ask if you possibly did the mod without removing the clip. I'll remove it. I'll get back together, somehow.

I ordered some.030" shims. :sigh: I'll either try to compress or hammer them a bit to thin them out some. I'll mic them as best I can. Maybe I can just use less AA adhesive? 

Think that's it... Thanks for the tips & link.


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## TigerhawkT3 (Jul 13, 2007)

I don't know if 0.003" will make much of a difference. You'll probably be fine with what you ordered.

I Seouled my Survivor LED as well, and I didn't remove the assembly. I just unscrewed the bezel/reflector.

More info here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/168476.


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## Lite_me (Jul 13, 2007)

Hey___, thanks Tiger! :thumbsup:


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