# *2016* ZebraLight SC63 and variants like the SC63w



## KeepingItLight

As pre-orders for the *ZebraLight SC63(w)* are going to begin in a few weeks, it is about time this flashlight got it's own thread. 

Have at it! All things SC63!



Glock27 said:


> Any update on when these will start US shipping?
> Looking forward to this light ........and future SC63w. Do you a date set for Pre-order SC63w?
> Thanks,
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Staff (Administrator)*
> 12/8/2015 11:47:46 PMWe are about to receive the first shipment of SC600 Mk3 in a few days. We'll start to take SC63(w) pre-orders in about one month.


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## TCY

I bothered ZL once more today and was told that the specs will be released in about a month.


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## newbie66

:thumbsup:


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## markr6

A fresh thread for a (_hopefully_) GREAT LIGHT!!

Considering Zebralights history from model to model, I don't expect anything crazy, new UI, different color anodizing or anything like that.

So, I'm guessing maybe:

1. No more ribbed tube. Instead, a straight, knurled tube like the SC5. Hopefully this doesn't mean a gain in size/weight like the SC52>SC5 "conversion".
2. XHP35 emitter like the SC600.

That's all I got and all it _needs _in my opinion.

And just for fun (switch not to scale)...


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## snowlover91

I'm wondering if they'll use the tail cap springs and shorten the length? Also they may have to go with unprotected batteries only to power the new LED and driver. I actually like the SC5 design, if they could shorten the length of the SC62 by a quarter inch while keeping the same slim profile and the same output, or slightly more, it would definitely be a homerun in my book. Why does ZL have to keep releasing all these great lights lol!


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## markr6

I think once we see the tailcap spring design on the SC600 III (next week), we can probably assume it will be the same on the SC63. I'm hoping it's narrow like the SC62. Any fatter and there's no real benefit over the SC600 III that I can see, which is already pretty sleek...more so than the mk II (fatter head).


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## Glock27

I'd like to see a SC63n! Nichia 92CRI Nichia 219!

G27


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot

How will accidental activation compare with the SC62?


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## markr6

ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> How will accidental activation compare with the SC62?



Should be the same. Remember, the switch on that photo above is not to scale...*just a photoshop hack* I did for fun. We'll see what it actually looks like soon I hope!


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## Glock27

ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> How will accidental activation compare with the SC62?




I have never had an accidental activation (Hot Pocket!) with an SC62. I carry and use one daily.
The SC60's were bad for that! My cure for that was to just carry it on L1.

G27


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## henry1960

markr6 said:


> A fresh thread for a (_hopefully_) GREAT LIGHT!!
> 
> Considering Zebralights history from model to model, I don't expect anything crazy, new UI, different color anodizing or anything like that.
> 
> So, I'm guessing maybe:
> 
> 1. No more ribbed tube. Instead, a straight, knurled tube like the SC5. Hopefully this doesn't mean a gain in size/weight like the SC52>SC5 "conversion".
> 2. XHP35 emitter like the SC600.
> 
> That's all I got and all it _needs _in my opinion.
> 
> And just for fun (switch not to scale)...


ILL definitely pre order this one!!


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## Glock27

I'd prefer the ribs as opposed the knurling like the SC600. The tubes of 62 are incredibly light and don't tear up pockets .

G27


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## jhe888

I'd like a clip on pocket clip instead of the screw on one.


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## Glock27

jhe888 said:


> I'd like a clip on pocket clip instead of the screw on one.



I love the clip the way it is. I've carried an SC6Xw daily for over 4 years. I've bent 1 clip to date and it straightened right up after removing it. 
I would go as far as maybe not getting a 63 if they goof with the clip. 

G27


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## keeperofdakeys

What I'm wondering is how much product differentiation there will be. Will the sc63 just be a smaller sc600 mkiii?


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## Skivvy9r

Glock27 said:


> I have never had an accidental activation (Hot Pocket!) with an SC62. I carry and use one daily.
> The SC60's were bad for that! My cure for that was to just carry it on L1.
> 
> G27



It's my EDC and I've had mine activate several times in my pocket. Must have been caused by the other junk sharing the pocket. I try to remember to clip it to the side of the pocket, eliminating the accidental activations.


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## Skivvy9r

jhe888 said:


> I'd like a clip on pocket clip instead of the screw on one.



It would be nice to be able to easily remove the clip, but with the screw on clip I have confidence to clip it to the exterior of bag with molle. So there's that.


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## markr6

keeperofdakeys said:


> What I'm wondering is how much product differentiation there will be. Will the sc63 just be a smaller sc600 mkiii?



That's what got me stumped. There really doesn't seem like much reason to keep a SC63 model, unless they really scaled it down somehow (impossible?) The SC600 III looks like they trimmed the fat off the SC600 II, so the SC63 seems like it would be so close in size.

Maybe it has more to do with differences in the reflector and beam type (like the SC600 II vs SC62 right now). Of course I'm not complaining....I like options and will probably end up with both. It's an addiction!!


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## Tixx

markr6 said:


> That's what got me stumped. There really doesn't seem like much reason to keep a SC63 model, unless they really scaled it down somehow (impossible?) The SC600 III looks like they trimmed the fat off the SC600 II, so the SC63 seems like it would be so close in size.
> 
> Maybe it has more to do with differences in the reflector and beam type (like the SC600 II vs SC62 right now). Of course I'm not complaining....I like options and will probably end up with both. It's an addiction!!


Yeah, I'm sure they will continue the beam and reflector difference as well as the size difference. 

Though I ordered the new 600, I don't find the 600 series pocketable like I do the sc6x series.


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## Glock27

I hope Pre-Orders include XHP35 Neutral White (Nominal CCT 4500K) and the HI dedomed. I'm going to get both if available. A 63 with more throw would be nice!

G27


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## fnsooner

Glock27 said:


> I hope Pre-Orders include XHP35 Neutral White (Nominal CCT 4500K) and the HI dedomed. I'm going to get both if available. A 63 with more throw would be nice!
> 
> G27



Me and you both. I talked to a Zebralight rep the other day and he said that the HI version of the SC63 is probably not going to happen. Maybe they will make a small batch, seeing that all the parts are on the shelf. Doubtful though.


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## markr6

Specs updated. These _will _have the *XHP35*. 4500 and 5700K flavors just like the SC600 III. I like it!


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## Tixx

markr6 said:


> Specs updated. These _will _have the *XHP35*. 4500 and 5700K flavors just like the SC600 III. I like it!


Awesome, thanks for the update! 4500 is excellent!


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## markr6

Tixx said:


> Awesome, thanks for the update! 4500 is excellent!



The CCT is right on for me. 5700K may not be bad though. I'm just hoping there is no tint lottery with the XHP35.

Regardless, it's nice to see that 6300K blue crap off their current lineup.


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## uofaengr

Must resist...


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## snowlover91

I'm curious to see what these 5700k tints will look like.. I'm hoping they'll be a pure white color or close to it. Right now 5k tint is my favorite out of all the different tints I've tried but never had a 5700k before. I wonder if the SC63 will be even more compact? Increased lumens? According to Cree's site the XHP35 is the most efficient led at 186 lumens per watt, if I remember correctly. If they could manage 1300 lumens at 5700k in the SC63 that would be awesome. The wait is hard but will be worth it imo. Love my SC62w too, it's one of my favorite EDC lights because of the superior battery type (compared to AA or cr123) and extra brightness if needed. The excellent UI of ZL is also another reason... I better stop before I get tempted to buy another SC62w or preorder the SC63 when it comes out..


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## markr6

I've been using my new Nitecore EC4SW over the weekend and I'm in awe of the 5000K MT-G2. Absolutely perfect. I couldn't imagine either a "cool" person or a "warm" person not liking it. It's just totally neutral with good color rendering. I have high hopes for the 5700K, hoping it leans more towards neutral to my eyes.


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## Tac Gunner

I own no Zebralights and am tossing around saving up for one as they seem to have a well deserved following. My question though is why are they using the xhp35 when it is an 11v led that only makes 1300 lumens? If they can build a boost driver for it why not build one and use a 6v xhp50 that will easily exceed 2000 lumens?


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## Fireclaw18

Tac Gunner said:


> I own no Zebralights and am tossing around saving up for one as they seem to have a well deserved following. My question though is why are they using the xhp35 when it is an 11v led that only makes 1300 lumens? If they can build a boost driver for it why not build one and use a 6v xhp50 that will easily exceed 2000 lumens?



Flashlight manufacturers like Zebralight tend to be a little more conservative than the average flashlight modder. At 2000 lumens it would get pretty hot pretty fast. They probably don't want it to get that hot. Even if they used the 6v xhp35 they'd probably have limited output to around 1300 lumens.


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## sidecross

markr6 said:


> I've been using my new Nitecore EC4SW over the weekend and I'm in awe of the 5000K MT-G2. Absolutely perfect. I couldn't imagine either a "cool" person or a "warm" person not liking it. It's just totally neutral with good color rendering. I have high hopes for the 5700K, hoping it leans more towards neutral to my eyes.


I have been what might be described as a person who did not understand the debate about 'cool' and 'warm', but now having two different lights with the Cree MT-G2, I do now.

I would be interested now in how the Zebralight warm LED compares to the MT-G2.


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## Tac Gunner

Fireclaw18 said:


> Flashlight manufacturers like Zebralight tend to be a little more conservative than the average flashlight modder. At 2000 lumens it would get pretty hot pretty fast. They probably don't want it to get that hot. Even if they used the 6v xhp35 they'd probably have limited output to around 1300 lumens.



I understand the heat issue, I just thought if you wanted to really stand out from the rest of the pack then a single 18650 xhp50 2k lumen light would stand out. Doesn't zebralight have some of the best thermal management in the industry?


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## markr6

I feel the SC600 II already gets hot enough at 1100lm. I would use a higher output mode even less. Usually I might say it wouldn't hurt to stuff it in the UI, but it's already getting pretty cluttered. But that's an XM-L2, so if the XHP runs cooler that could open some possibilities.


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## snowlover91

Tac Gunner said:


> I understand the heat issue, I just thought if you wanted to really stand out from the rest of the pack then a single 18650 xhp50 2k lumen light would stand out. Doesn't zebralight have some of the best thermal management in the industry?



Yes and no. Their PID system is the best imo. It keeps the LED and internal temp of the battery also from getting too hot, and it works very well. Selfbuilt has documented this in several of his ZL reviews with impressive results. However there is a physical limit to how much light you can pack into something as small as the SC62, there just isn't a lot of thermal mass to essentially double the output to 2k lumens without significant increasing the heat produced this resulting in a quicker drop in output. You might effectively see a burst of 2k lumens for 15-30 seconds before it throttles down to 1400-1500 due to the heat produced. A much better way is to produce a light like the SC62 which can effectively produce near full output for as long as the battery supports it, and well regulated at that. The heat produced from an XHP50 running at 2k lumens would be too much for a small light like the SC62 to handle without quickly having to lower output. I'm hoping they can get 1200-1300 out of it which would be a nice little increase.


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## Tac Gunner

I did not realize how small these lights were, I thought they were closer to the size of typical p60 host but I see now they are much smaller and could not handle the heat. My only experience with an xhp50 is in my Solarforce L2 and while it gets hot it doesn't get uncomfortable to hold until about 5 mins and then I step it down. I'm sure over those 5 mins it is dropping in output but it still appears brighter (I know that is a relative term) than my other lights in the 700-1000 lumen range and not by just a little bit, it's enough to wash out the other lights. Either way though if they can get 1300 lumens or so out of this light and it can handle for a decent time span I may be interested. My other question though is what makes this stand out from the SC600 MKiii? It has an xhp35 and is 1100 lumens so what is special about the SC63? I mean even if it is 100 or 200 lumens more opt he human eye cannot detect that.

Please don't think I'm trying to come on here and hate on zebralight or try to stir anything up, I am honestly trying to learn about zebralight as they seem to have so many products that are quite similar and when they release new products I don't see much improvement over the last generation.


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## markr6

Sounds like the SC63 will be close to the SC600 III, but here's why I think it's worth making both:

SC63:
- Smaller. Even a tiny reduction in size can make it more pocket-friendly. Especially when you're talking 1x18650 formats
- Possibly a shallower reflector. This will give it a slightly bigger hotspot/more flood like the SC62. Not a huge difference, but definitely noticeable.

That's really it from what I can guess.

As far as improvement, I really don't think it was even necessary to improve the SC62 and SC600 II; they were already pushing the limits. But since they gave it a shot, I'm a buyer!


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## snowlover91

Tac, I think the main advantage of the 62 vs MK3 is the smaller size. It's less bulky, shorter, lighter and is more of a floody light. While not a thrower the current Mk2 is heavier, bulkier and not as pocket friendly. The SC62 just disappears in the pocket. If they can managed to get a few extra lumens out that would be great, and they may also shorten the SC63 a little as well which would be even better. The main difference is how you plan to use them. If you want more of a thrower the MK3 (especially when available the HI model) would be what you want. If you want smaller for EDC the SC62/63 would be a better choice with less throw. Both are excellent lights for what they're designed to do! The ability to run at turbo for as long as the battery allows, in regulation, is a big deal to me. The PID regulates the temp and output so I don't have to worry about overheating of the battery or LED.


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## Tac Gunner

Thanks guys for the explanation! Based on the specs of the MK III it's already pretty small so to be even smaller is impressive. I'm gong to have to wait and see which I like more once the SC63 is released


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## snowlover91

Tac Gunner said:


> Thanks guys for the explanation! Based on the specs of the MK III it's already pretty small so to be even smaller is impressive. I'm gong to have to wait and see which I like more once the SC63 is released



Anytime! Yep the MK3 by the specs is shorter, definitely better for EDC and should have decent throw. We should know more once people start reporting about it later today, I have a feeling mark already got his package and is busy playing with them lol. I held off on it since I wanted to see reports and because funds are tight right now with our first baby on the way in a few days. I may buy the SC63 once specs and pics are released, my SC62 is great so I may just try to pick another up.


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## Tac Gunner

snowlover91 said:


> Anytime! Yep the MK3 by the specs is shorter, definitely better for EDC and should have decent throw. We should know more once people start reporting about it later today, I have a feeling mark already got his package and is busy playing with them lol. I held off on it since I wanted to see reports and because funds are tight right now with our first baby on the way in a few days. I may buy the SC63 once specs and pics are released, my SC62 is great so I may just try to pick another up.


Congrats on the baby, my first will be 11 months old this month. They are a great thing but lights do usually end up on the back burner for awhile lol. I will probably wait and see what the SC63 brings to the table.


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## MX421

Actually, mine is 2.3 years old now (i refuse to keep talking kid's age in months after 1 y/o) and i have bought quite a few low mode lights for putting the kids to sleep. Also have one on the way, so a grumpy wife who doesn't want the lights turned on while she is sleeping...


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## markr6

MX421 said:


> Actually, mine is 2.3 years old now (i refuse to keep talking kid's age in months after 1 y/o) and i have bought quite a few low mode lights for putting the kids to sleep. Also have one on the way, so a grumpy wife who doesn't want the lights turned on while she is sleeping...



HAHA! I have a 44582401-second year old. 44582402. 44582403. 44582404.


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## Tac Gunner

MX421 said:


> Actually, mine is 2.3 years old now (i refuse to keep talking kid's age in months after 1 y/o) and i have bought quite a few low mode lights for putting the kids to sleep. Also have one on the way, so a grumpy wife who doesn't want the lights turned on while she is sleeping...



Sorry, I read in your post you said you had your first one on the way. Anyway I really discovered the usefulness of moonlight and firefly modes after having my first. So convenient to use to check on him at night without disturbing him or when I get up to get a bottle. I know Zebralights are known for their number moonlight/firefly modes and long runtimes in those modes so another reason to add one to my collection.


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## Tixx

markr6 said:


> Sounds like the SC63 will be close to the SC600 III, but here's why I think it's worth making both:
> 
> SC63:
> - Smaller. Even a tiny reduction in size can make it more pocket-friendly. Especially when you're talking 1x18650 formats
> - Possibly a shallower reflector. This will give it a slightly bigger hotspot/more flood like the SC62. Not a huge difference, but definitely noticeable.
> 
> That's really it from what I can guess.
> 
> As far as improvement, I really don't think it was even necessary to improve the SC62 and SC600 II; they were already pushing the limits. But since they gave it a shot, I'm a buyer!


SC63 diameter is smaller and sometimes that makes quite a difference between making it a pocket light or like the sc600, making it a holster light (in my opinion). 1" diameter is usually pushing my pocketable preference.


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## Tixx

Congratulations on the babies!


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## CelticCross74

the SC63 is out now?


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## keeperofdakeys

CelticCross74 said:


> the SC63 is out now?



No, it appeared in the flashlight comparison spreadsheet, so it has at least been confirmed. (Though, there are some planned lights that appear there, then disappear. Never to be seen again.)

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...kkEMBjAPo_s/edit?hl=en&authkey=CNqP6KIC#gid=0


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## CelticCross74

ugh...bad marketing on ZL. Can anybody clear up a question I have on the SC600 mkIII HI? Is it going to be an XP-L HI or an XHP35 HI? Also its the XHP35 that is going into the SC63?


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## snowlover91

CelticCross74 said:


> ugh...bad marketing on ZL. Can anybody clear up a question I have on the SC600 mkIII HI? Is it going to be an XP-L HI or an XHP35 HI? Also its the XHP35 that is going into the SC63?



Well they typically update the spreadsheet first then the actual product is officially announced in 1-3 weeks. It's mainly useful for seeing a list of all their current and past offerings and comparing the specs, quite helpful! When they actually officially announce the SC63 you'll know it! The MK3 will be XHP35 which is what they're selling now and they may also do a HI version of the XHP35 although that hasn't been released for preorder yet. The same XHP35 will be used in the SC63 but no HI version, at least for now. Hope that helps!


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## uofaengr

The new emitter and increased brightness will be nice (curious to see the efficiency on lower modes) and it does sound like it'll be shorter in some way, but I don't know if it's enough to push me over the edge for a purchase. I almost feel the 62 is the perfect length to give a nice and secure full grip (even preferred over the 52) while still being incredibly small. I highly doubt it'll be implemented this go around, but I'd probably have to have the fully customizable UI a lot of us have been wanting before I'd take the leap. Of course, then in 2 months I'll see it and forget I ever said this...


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## snowlover91

uofaengr said:


> The new emitter and increased brightness will be nice (curious to see the efficiency on lower modes) and it does sound like it'll be shorter in some way, but I don't know if it's enough to push me over the edge for a purchase. I almost feel the 62 is the perfect length to give a nice and secure full grip (even preferred over the 52) while still being incredibly small. I highly doubt it'll be implemented this go around, but I'd probably have to have the fully customizable UI a lot of us have been wanting before I'd take the leap. Of course, then in 2 months I'll see it and forget I ever said this...



If they take about a quarter inch off it would still probably be able to work with a full grip while being even more compact, hopefully! I'm curious to see what the 5700k tint is like for these lights, and also if they can pull 1300 lumens from this light with the 5700k version it would be great.


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## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> I'm curious to see what the 5700k tint is like for these lights



You probably saw it on the SC600III thread. Not the "coolish-neutral" I was hoping for from the 5700K, but still pretty good.


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## Tixx

markr6 said:


> You probably saw it on the SC600III thread. Not the "coolish-neutral" I was hoping for from the 5700K, but still pretty good.


Thanks for posting that. I was 5700k curious. Now I'm sticking with the 4500k.


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## markr6

Tixx said:


> Thanks for posting that. I was 5700k curious. Now I'm sticking with the 4500k.



I can't decide. It's warmer/yellower than my SC5w and SC600 II, which is making me lean towards the cool.

The SC63 sure has some work to do! This SC600 III is close in size to the SC62. It will be interesting to see what they do.


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## Tixx

markr6 said:


> I can't decide. It's warmer/yellower than my SC5w and SC600 II, which is making me lean towards the cool.
> 
> The SC63 sure has some work to do! This SC600 III is close in size to the SC62. It will be interesting to see what they do.


Yeah, only thing is the. 25" larger diameter of the head which to me is a pocket carry deal breaker.


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## markr6

Tixx said:


> Yeah, only thing is the. 25" larger diameter of the head which to me is a pocket carry deal breaker.



It does make a difference. I always notice the small difference between the SC5 and SC52 right after putting it in my pocket.


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## 18650

I wish they would just make the MT-G2 variant already instead of messing around with these 12v emitters.


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## snowlover91

Just received a reply from ZL about the release of the SC63. It should be available for preorder before the end of the month, I'm guessing either this week before Christmas or next week after Christmas. Same for the MK3 with HI emitter

Also the SC5 series with smooth reflector has been discontinued. Have no idea why but noticed it was missing from their site and the person I spoke with confirmed it.


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## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Just received a reply from ZL about the release of the SC63. It should be available for preorder before the end of the month, I'm guessing either this week before Christmas or next week after Christmas. Same for the MK3 with HI emitter
> 
> Also the SC5 series with smooth reflector has been discontinued. Have no idea why but noticed it was missing from their site and the person I spoke with confirmed it.



Thanks for the updates. No worries about the SC5 leaving. I have the SC5w OP and highly recommend it. I don't think the beam is much different at all; it has the standard ZL orange peel which isn't very aggressive.

More ZL purchases in my near future...hopefully no sales 

BTW, *SC62w down to $75 on sale!*


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## snowlover91

markr6 said:


> Thanks for the updates. No worries about the SC5 leaving. I have the SC5w OP and highly recommend it. I don't think the beam is much different at all; it has the standard ZL orange peel which isn't very aggressive.
> 
> More ZL purchases in my near future...hopefully no sales
> 
> BTW, *SC62w down to $75 on sale!*



Question for you, the cool white of your MK3 is it neutral looking like the SC52 you have (pure white) or is it like a typical cool white light but slightly warmer? I'm trying to decide which SC63 I'll preorder lol. Someone needs to preorder the MK3 HI also and compare it with a MK2!


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## Tixx

snowlover91 said:


> Question for you, the cool white of your MK3 is it neutral looking like the SC52 you have (pure white) or is it like a typical cool white light but slightly warmer? I'm trying to decide which SC63 I'll preorder lol. Someone needs to preorder the MK3 HI also and compare it with a MK2!


Tint lottery. No matter what his were, yours will most likely be a little different. And a little different can be large enough to be tint deal breakers.


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## markr6

Tixx said:


> Tint lottery. No matter what his were, yours will most likely be a little different. And a little different can be large enough to be tint deal breakers.



Exactly. My SC600wII could probably pass for a cool white to some people, but I really like it. No yellow at all.

I've tried a few SC600w II L2 models and believe me they were ALL different. Yellow, magenta tint, dingy greenish-yellow. They were all purchased close to one another. There's simply no "compare A to B" with these unfortunately; at least that's what Ive seen. Any "matching" tints are pure coincidence between same or different models.

Note, this isn't a Zebralight "thing". I purchased 5 Fenix PD32UE in the past and they were also very different. I ended up keeping the two closest tints, but even then, you can easily tell the difference.


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## geokite

markr6 said:


> Thanks for the updates. No worries about the SC5 leaving. I have the SC5w OP and highly recommend it. I don't think the beam is much different at all; it has the standard ZL orange peel which isn't very aggressive.
> 
> More ZL purchases in my near future...hopefully no sales
> 
> BTW, *SC62w down to $75 on sale!*



Took advantage of that sale, ordered a SC62d. Love the 5000K tint of my SC52d. While I suspect they will have a SC63d soon, 1) I'd rather have the option of no frosted lens (seems the Cree XM-LS EasyWhite only comes in a frosted lens) 2) seems the replacement of double springs with springy posts leads to rattle and possibly flickering and 3) I don't want to limit what batteries I can grab (65mm long) for usage. I'm ok with using any type of 18650, but that's the point, I have many types of 18650s and until they get recycled I don't want to buy more. This SC62d will be my 21st ZL.

Steve


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## markr6

geokite said:


> This SC62d will be my 21st ZL.


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## RNLAF

Hi guys,

I'm thinking of buying a SC62 or maybe, if I'm able to remain patient, the SC63. I want an EDC light and these lights seem to fit the bill. As of now I don't own any lights worth mentioning so this will be the first. Besides a flashlight for work (I'm a firefighter), I'm not planning on purchasing any other flashlights. That said, from what I read on this forum, sticking with only one light might be very difficult :help:

I have been reading about the 18650 cells and I just want to check if I have got things right. First of all, the SC63 will probably need a unprotected 18650 cell just like its big brother the SC600 MKIII. Now, the light has a protection circuit which prevents the light from draining the battery at dangerous levels, correct? The charger (I'm going for an X-Star charger) has a protection circuit to prevent charging the battery at dangerous levels, correct? If I use the battery normally and don't do anything stupid with it like leaving it behind the windshield of a car on a hot summer day, besides accidentally shorting the battery, what could go wrong?

If it turns out to be a hassle to use unprotected cells, which AFAICT isn't the case, I might be better off buying the SC62. That would mean I don't have to wait and can order the light straight away :twothumbs


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## sidecross

RNLAF said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm thinking of buying a SC62 or maybe, if I'm able to remain patient, the SC63. I want an EDC light and these lights seem to fit the bill. As of now I don't own any lights worth mentioning so this will be the first. Besides a flashlight for work (I'm a firefighter), I'm not planning on purchasing any other flashlights. That said, from what I read on this forum, sticking with only one light might be very difficult :help:
> 
> I have been reading about the 18650 cells and I just want to check if I have got things right. First of all, the SC63 will probably need a unprotected 18650 cell just like its big brother the SC600 MKIII. Now, the light has a protection circuit which prevents the light from draining the battery at dangerous levels, correct? The charger (I'm going for an X-Star charger) has a protection circuit to prevent charging the battery at dangerous levels, correct? If I use the battery normally and don't do anything stupid with it like leaving it behind the windshield of a car on a hot summer day, besides accidentally shorting the battery, what could go wrong?
> 
> If it turns out to be a hassle to use unprotected cells, which AFAICT isn't the case, I might be better off buying the SC62. That would mean I don't have to wait and can order the light straight away :twothumbs


You have a good understanding, The Zebralight is a well designed light to be both small and safe. It does have the protection you described.

I use XTAR chargers and they are very good. The best practice with lithium batteries is not to run them down. The Zebralight has a funtion to signal to show voltage by 1 to 4 signal.


----------



## markr6

I'm assuming the SC63 will have the same new post-springs as the 600 MKIII, but can't say for sure. So plan on unprotected flat tops just to be safe.

On two occasions I accidentally left a Zebralight on. It drained the cell down to 2.79 or so then cut out. No big deal, but not something you want to do much.


----------



## UTV2TiVo

RNLAF,

I think you would be perfectly happy with an SC62, it's a fantastic light!
The question is: are you going to always wish you went with the newer SC63, and end up buying it later anyway?


----------



## RNLAF

Thanks for the reply's guy's, I appreciate it. So, using unprotected cells ins't that big of a deal as long as you treat them with a little bit of care. Don't drain em to deep, good advise. 

Given the current financial situation, i just can't afford more then one light in this price class. I'd like to think I'm not someone who always wants the latest and the greatest but in this case, I might wait a little while to see how the 63 turns out. Come on Zebralight, get a move on!  :laughing:


----------



## KeepingItLight

Just to be clear, the *ZebraLight SC62w*, and all the other recent 18650 models from ZebraLight, use a low-voltage cutoff circuit that turns the flashlight off completely (except for a minuscule standby drain) when battery voltage falls to 2.7 volts. 

The ZebraLight implementation forces step-downs to lower levels before completely cutting power. That way, you have a fair warning. High goes to Medium, then Medium goes to Low. The step-down from Low is the one that turns off the flashlight. After a step-down, you have 15 minutes or more to get your battery changed.

I think this is much safer than simply blinking the main light or flashing an LED when a battery gets low. _I wish all Li-ion flashlights had a low-voltage cutoff_, especially those that run on unprotected batteries. Mark's experience is a good case in point. He is an expert, and yet twice the low-voltage cutoff is what prevented an over-discharge in his ZebraLight.


----------



## snowlover91

That's one of the things I love about the ZL as well, the step down as the battery voltage depletes. If I'm using high or medium and it drops down I know it's time to change the batteries. Most lights either simply cut off or they run until the battery is fully depleted. Very few that I've used step down first to warn you. The best part of this is if you're in a situation where you need the extra light for a few mins. Say I'm in a cave using my light and all of a sudden the light cuts off. I may need a few seconds of light to find and replace the battery or if I'm out of batteries the extra few mins of light at reduced levels lets me know it's time to get out. Not that I would ever put myself in that situation but just a real world example of how the step down is actually quite useful and better, imo.


----------



## tjc5911

Gotta say for anyone considering....just picked up an SC62 and is is a fantastic edc light. Every battery I currently own works, no problems, shakes, rattles or rolls! I too would like to have an SC63 but I'm very please with the 62. Particularly love the quick 4 press to determine battery voltage so not to run down too far. I'm not much for ZL's customer service but if you get any zebralight in your hands you're likely good to go.


----------



## ozzie_c_cobblepot

Didn't these guys say "later this month"? So is anybody else doing the twice-daily-refresh dance?


----------



## RNLAF

Just twice a day? 
:laughing:


----------



## snowlover91

ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> Didn't these guys say "later this month"? So is anybody else doing the twice-daily-refresh dance?



They told me the SC63 and MK3 HI before the end of the month for preorder, I'm thinking Monday next week.


----------



## Vol

Bought 62w on the 21st it was delivered on the 24th with the two 18650ga i bought as well and they came in a cute case.

Writing is on the wall...


----------



## Vol

Personally and I may be stupid but I don't think they can improve on the 62 for EDC except for run times...


----------



## richardcpf

*Anxiously waiting for the SC600 MK3 XP-L HI*


----------



## Vol

richardcpf said:


> *Anxiously waiting for the SC600 MK3 XP-L HI*



That's exactly what i'm waiting on


----------



## Chaitanya

what are the differences between the XHP35, XPL-Hi ad XML-Ux? Should be an interesting light as a backup light for long treks.


----------



## hatman

Vol said:


> Personally and I may be stupid but I don't think they can improve on the 62 for EDC except for run times...



Yes -- and the heat!


----------



## Vol

hatman said:


> Yes -- and the heat!



That was gonna be my next wish
This 62 gets hotter than he'll in like 30 seconds

Not too hot to hold though.... 126 degrees F


----------



## markr6

Vol said:


> Personally and I may be stupid but I don't think they can improve on the 62 for EDC except for run times...



It will be difficult to do. My fear is they'll adopt the SC5 style. While it would look great and probably be shorter, it would also be heavier and bulkier than the 62.


----------



## Tixx

markr6 said:


> It will be difficult to do. My fear is they'll adopt the SC5 style. While it would look great and probably be shorter, it would also be heavier and bulkier than the 62.


Yeah, that would kill it for me.


----------



## ozzie_c_cobblepot

snowlover91 said:


> They told me the SC63 and MK3 HI before the end of the month for preorder, I'm thinking Monday next week.



*anxiously tapping four fingers on my right hand over and over*


----------



## fnsooner

geokite said:


> Took advantage of that sale, ordered a SC62d.
> 
> Steve



You may have gotten the last one. I don’t see them in stock any more. I kind of hope they have some SC62ws in stock for a while. If I find out I prefer the 62 over the 63, I may grab a couple more 62s before they are gone.


----------



## fnsooner

markr6 said:


> It will be difficult to do. My fear is they'll adopt the SC5 style. While it would look great and probably be shorter, it would also be heavier and bulkier than the 62.





Tixx said:


> Yeah, that would kill it for me.



That would kill it for me too. I’m expecting them to do the same thing to the SC63 that they did to the SC600 MK III and make it shorter and lighter. I am hoping.


----------



## Tixx

fnsooner said:


> That would kill it for me too. I’m expecting them to do the same thing to the SC63 that they did to the SC600 MK III and make it shorter and lighter. I am hoping.


Yeah, shorter, lighter and brighter!


----------



## snowlover91

Wth the SC62 being phased out I wonder what LED they will use for their high CRI version? Currently it is the SC62d with Luxeon but it only gets a little over 300 lumens. I see on Cree's site that the XHP35 comes in a min 80 and 90cri variant for both the neutral and cool white variant. Perhaps ZL will later release an SC63 with a 90+ CRI XHP35? If they push them to the max they could get approximately 800-900 lumens out of the 90+ CRI variant in neutral white. I would buy several SC63 with 90+ CRI and 800+ lumens. It would also allow them to use the same driver as used in the other SC63 lights without any changes, or minor ones in a worst case scenario. Thoughts?


----------



## JKolmo

Great idea! I would love a 90+ CRI SC63!


----------



## markr6

JKolmo said:


> Great idea! I would love a 90+ CRI SC63!



Yes! Take my money!!! I never even looked into high CRI XHPs.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

Bought my first Zebralight, the SC62 last week for $75. Really like it, but now of course want another. I read the 40+ pages of posts on the SC600 MKIII, and still debating about getting that one or the SC600 mk II l2, or wait on the SC63, or the HI MKIII. So many choices!

Never once thought about tint until I started reading on here. I just bought the one that had the highest lumens (I know, I'm a noob). What is the difference in real world between the "w" version and the cool white version? Is it just personal preference or is one tint better for certain tasks that you do?

My only experience is with the only other light I bought a couple years ago, the TM26 (3800lm version) and it is a very white light.

Since I've got a SC62 which is very cool, I was thinking of trying out a "w" version to see if I like it, but like having the brightest, smallest light available and the lumen dropping doesn't seem appealing or am I missing something in my ignorance?


----------



## lightmyfire13

If u like seeing the greens and browns of trees go jor the W CW washes out the colour ...I use to be a cw guy but not anymore


----------



## Tixx

lightmyfire13 said:


> If u like seeing the greens and browns of trees go jor the W CW washes out the colour ...I use to be a cw guy but not anymore


Yeah, the lumen loss at this level is something the eye can barely if at all distinguish and you can then see more true to real life color. And yes, blue of the same output looks brighter just due to how our eyes work. Angry blue does work for people, but is terrible for actually looking at colored objects. Was speaking with an officer this evening outside my home and he had the most angry blue spot light while I took out my Zebralight sc52w and it gave some real perspective on the surroundings.


----------



## Tixx

Neutral 






Cool


----------



## sidecross

The two photos by Tixx shows also the greater contrast between the two images; shadow detail is much less with a cooler light.


----------



## snowlover91

markr6 said:


> Yes! Take my money!!! I never even looked into high CRI XHPs.



I think it's likely they'll release an 80 or 90+ cri using the XHP35. It would only make sense to replace the old SC62d/c models with a new high cri variant. Also they would be able to get 900 lumens out of even the 90 cri xhp35 which would be great; high lumens and high cri, would buy several personally if they do. I would expect it to come within a few months afterwards if they decide to, come on Zebralight release a 900+ lumen sc63 with 90+ cri! 

Regarding the NW vs CW question asked, I used to love cool white but once trying and using some good neutral emitters there is no comparison. The neutral brings out the real colors better, makes greens and browns appear more natural while also being easier on the eyes, at least for me. The lumen loss is 10-15% but worth it and not noticeable at the 900-1000 lumen level.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

Tixx said:


> Yeah, the lumen loss at this level is something the eye can barely if at all distinguish and you can then see more true to real life color. And yes, blue of the same output looks brighter just due to how our eyes work. Angry blue does work for people, but is terrible for actually looking at colored objects. Was speaking with an officer this evening outside my home and he had the most angry blue spot light while I took out my Zebralight sc52w and it gave some real perspective on the surroundings.



Thanks for the info and pics Tixx. I agree that the neutral looks better to my eye. What would you say is the biggest difference in beam between the SC62w and the SC600 MKII or III. Better throw with the SC600? Thanks.


----------



## Tixx

ateupwithgolf said:


> Thanks for the info and pics Tixx. I agree that the neutral looks better to my eye. What would you say is the biggest difference in beam between the SC62w and the SC600 MKII or III. Better throw with the SC600? Thanks.



You're welcome. 

Better throw on the sc600w III. And the sc600w III is a little shorter. I have an sc600w III for sale if you are looking.


----------



## RNLAF

markr6 said:


> It will be difficult to do. My fear is they'll adopt the SC5 style. While it would look great and probably be shorter, it would also be heavier and bulkier than the 62.



If they were to adopt the SC5 style, wouldn't the type designation become the SC6 instead of the SC63?


----------



## markr6

RNLAF said:


> If they were to adopt the SC5 style, wouldn't the type designation become the SC6 instead of the SC63?



I'm guessing no SC6. But what you're saying does make sense.


----------



## RNLAF

I suspect they will keep the SC62's design because from what I read here, it's one of it's strongest selling points.

Although speculating about these kind of things doesn't serve any real purpose, I do think it's entertaining ;-)


----------



## markr6

SC63/w up on the Zebralight site! :twothumbs No photo and not available for preorder as I type this...but soon I'm sure...


----------



## scs

markr6 said:


> SC63/w up on the Zebralight site! :twothumbs No photo and not available for preorder as I type this...but soon I'm sure...



Looks like they're sticking with the tight cell length tolerance....


----------



## recDNA

markr6 said:


> SC63/w up on the Zebralight site! :twothumbs No photo and not available for preorder as I type this...but soon I'm sure...


Does it say if unprotected battery is required?


----------



## markr6

recDNA said:


> Does it say if unprotected battery is required?



No, but they use the same wording as the SC600III, so I assume it's the same deal with unprotected only.


----------



## Lumencrazy

Tixx said:


> Neutral
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool


Were these pictures taken in RAW or with auto white balance?


----------



## Tixx

Lumencrazy said:


> Were these pictures taken in RAW or with auto white balance?


Just auto with cell phone


----------



## recDNA

Assuming the red is red and not purplish red the neutral does render color much better.


----------



## Tixx

recDNA said:


> Assuming the red is red and not purplish red the neutral does render color much better.


Oh yeah, pretty true to what I see. Neutral looks so much ore true to actual colors.


----------



## Tixx

So 2 grams lighter 100 more lumens and 4 mm shorter. Very nice!


----------



## snowlover91

This seems new, the PID description is more detailed (or possibly improved?) and the battery protection feature also. 



PID thermal regulated outputs (two highest output levels) using 384 internal brightness levels and a calibrated 0.1C resolution temperature sensor.
Builtin battery discharging protections with continuously monitored temperature, current, and voltage, plus a (2.7V) low voltage cutoff


----------



## 18650

Those two pictures aren't really useful for comparing shadow detail as one person upthread did. The cool white shot is either _clearly_ underexposed compared to the other one or the beam profiles are vastly different.


----------



## markr6

18650 said:


> Those two pictures aren't really useful for comparing shadow detail as one person upthread did. The cool white shot is either _clearly_ underexposed compared to the other one or the beam profiles are vastly different.



Just looks like the light/camera was held at a different angle. But a pretty darn good representation of what you get in me experience.


----------



## Tixx

markr6 said:


> Just looks like the light/camera was held at a different angle. But a pretty darn good representation of what you get in me experience.


Yeah, not perfect, I know. Looked pretty much the same in the pic as I saw.


----------



## markr6

Just purchased an SC63w. It was hard to do without even seeing a photo but what the hell. Long wait ahead...


----------



## snowlover91

markr6 said:


> Just purchased an SC63w. It was hard to do without even seeing a photo but what the hell. Long wait ahead...



Lol I was waiting for this post I knew it was only a matter of time. You know we got it bad when we are preordering a light with no pic yet lol. I'm pretty sure ZL is getting some good laughs reading this thread. Worse case scenario you could return it or sell it if you don't like it! I paid for the upgraded 2 day shipping to get it quicker as well.


----------



## Tixx

snowlover91 said:


> Lol I was waiting for this post I knew it was only a matter of time. You know we got it bad when we are preordering a light with no pic yet lol. I'm pretty sure ZL is getting some good laughs reading this thread. Worse case scenario you could return it or sell it if you don't like it! I paid for the upgraded 2 day shipping to get it quicker as well.


Thanks for the heads up mark6! Was waiting for that post as well. Paid for priority as well since people who purchased the sc600 III 5 days after it was available on the website were getting theirs before I did who paid a month prior and then was told 10 more business days until it ships even after that!


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> You know we got it bad when we are preordering a light with no pic yet lol. I'm pretty sure ZL is getting some good laughs reading this thread.



"_HAHA, __SUCKERS!!!"_


----------



## wrdogg22

What batteries are folks thinking about buying for the sc63? Is it a similar thought process as the sc600III. Looking to purchase my first ZL and this light is looking promising. Thanks.


----------



## snowlover91

wrdogg22 said:


> What batteries are folks thinking about buying for the sc63? Is it a similar thought process as the sc600III. Looking to purchase my first ZL and this light is looking promising. Thanks.



Unprotected flat top cells are required for this light similar to the MK3, probably the ones on the ZL website (red wrapped ones) would be best. That's the ones I have and use, good capacity and high drain capability too.


----------



## snowlover91

It looks like they do plan some high CRI options! :thumbsup:
"SC63Fc and SC63Fd are planned, but won't be announced until we have enough production capacity ('c' and 'd' models are very time consuming production wise because we are 'cherry-picking' the LEDs). 

XHP35 based SC63c and SC63d are planned, but won't be announced until we can source the LEDs in production quantity. We'll decide if we want to continue cherry-picking the tint or not by that time."


----------



## jak

RNLAF said:


> I suspect they will keep the SC62's design because from what I read here, it's one of it's strongest selling points.


This. I also think the SC63 will be a slightly shorter SC62, with a new tailcap. Perhaps some other minuscule, yet beneficial enhancements as well (# of fins, more rounded edges, etc). The bezel diameter and beam profile of the 63 are identical to the 62. Seems like a safe bet.

Anyway, I too am one of the suckers that has pre-ordered before even seeing the thing. But in my opinion, most Zebralights are ugly -it's its usefulness that matters to me.

Has anyone ever speculated about a SC63w HI yet?


----------



## snowlover91

jak said:


> This. I also think the SC63 will be a slightly shorter SC62, with a new tailcap. Perhaps some other minuscule, yet beneficial enhancements as well (# of fins, more rounded edges, etc). The bezel diameter and beam profile of the 63 are identical to the 62. Seems like a safe bet.
> 
> Anyway, I too am one of the suckers that has pre-ordered before even seeing the thing. But in my opinion, most Zebralights are ugly -it's its usefulness that matters to me.
> 
> Has anyone ever speculated about a SC63w HI yet?



See my post above about the models they plan to release. It seems from a previous response I had and someone else here too that they don't plan an HI model but they do plan to possibly do some 90+ CRI variants... I really hope so.


----------



## wrdogg22

snowlover91 said:


> Unprotected flat top cells are required for this light similar to the MK3, probably the ones on the ZL website (red wrapped ones) would be best. That's the ones I have and use, good capacity and high drain capability too.



Thanks for the info snowlover91. Happy New Year.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

Does anyone know for sure if they are including batteries in the US shipments for the SC63w preorders? I don't have any unprotected cells yet. Thanks.


----------



## jak

ateupwithgolf said:


> Does anyone know for sure if they are including batteries in the US shipments for the SC63w preorders? I don't have any unprotected cells yet. Thanks.


Product descriptions states, "Battery: One 18650 size (i.e. 65mm long) 3.6-4.35V li-ion rechargeable. Batteries are not included in the package."

Doesn't seem safe to assume they would include a battery. Luckily they're only 8 bucks.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

jak said:


> Product descriptions states, "Battery: One 18650 size (i.e. 65mm long) 3.6-4.35V li-ion rechargeable. Batteries are not included in the package."
> 
> Doesn't seem safe to assume they would include a battery. Luckily they're only 8 bucks.



IIRC, the SC600MKIII said the same but US orders where getting batteries? I could be wrong.


----------



## Tixx

jak said:


> This. I also think the SC63 will be a slightly shorter SC62, with a new tailcap. Perhaps some other minuscule, yet beneficial enhancements as well (# of fins, more rounded edges, etc). The bezel diameter and beam profile of the 63 are identical to the 62. Seems like a safe bet.
> 
> Anyway, I too am one of the suckers that has pre-ordered before even seeing the thing. But in my opinion, most Zebralights are ugly -it's its usefulness that matters to me.
> 
> Has anyone ever speculated about a SC63w HI yet?


Yeah, 4 mm shorter, 2 grams lighter, 100 lumens brighter and same diameter.


----------



## Fireclaw18

I really hope the SC63 has actual knurling on it. Would make it so much more useful for EDC carry. Ideally, I'm hoping for something that looks like the SC5. bit preferably with thinner sidewalls in the battery tube.


----------



## Vol

Fireclaw18 said:


> I really hope the SC63 has actual knurling on it. Would make it so much more useful for EDC carry. Ideally, I'm hoping for something that looks like the SC5. bit preferably with thinner sidewalls in the battery tube.



Not me I love the ridged design.


----------



## 18650

snowlover91 said:


> It looks like they do plan some high CRI options! :thumbsup: "SC63Fc and SC63Fd are planned, but won't be announced until we have enough production capacity ('c' and 'd' models are very time consuming production wise because we are 'cherry-picking' the LEDs).   XHP35 based SC63c and SC63d are planned, but won't be announced until we can source the LEDs in production quantity. We'll decide if we want to continue cherry-picking the tint or not by that time."


 Datasheet says 90 CRI XHP35 is available in 5000K and 5700K. I'm guessing they'd go for the first but I'd be interested in seeing what the second looks like.


----------



## recDNA

I love the idea of the HI CRI variant but will not go with flat top unprotected batteries so Zebralight and I have come to a parting of the ways.


----------



## cmd

ateupwithgolf said:


> Does anyone know for sure if they are including batteries in the US shipments for the SC63w preorders? I don't have any unprotected cells yet. Thanks.



Just pre-ordered a SC63W XHP35 and it does say that it includes a battery for US shipments. Delivery date is stated as January 31.


----------



## KeepingItLight

The *ZebraLight SC63Fd* sounds enticing. If it can get a minimum of around 900 lumens on its highest mode, that would be good enough for me. The idea of 90 CRI, 5000K, and 900 lumens in the SC63 format is sweet!

Unfortunately, I cannot afford to buy all the variants of the new ZebraLights, so I will have to chose carefully.


----------



## uofaengr

KeepingItLight said:


> The *ZebraLight SC63Fd* sounds enticing. If it can get a minimum of around 900 lumens on its highest mode, that would be good enough for me. The idea of 90 CRI, 5000K, and 900 lumens in the SC63 format is sweet!
> 
> Unfortunately, I cannot afford to buy all the variants of the new ZebraLights, so I will have to chose carefully.


Yep, this would give me a reason to pick up a 63. As of now though, I haven't really read a good reason why I should. The 62w is a near perfect light for me.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

ateupwithgolf said:


> IIRC, the SC600MKIII said the same but US orders where getting batteries? I could be wrong.



emailed ZL, no batteries included with SC63. They included some with SC600 b/c they weren't available on their site at the time.


----------



## TCY

Well I used my sc63 budget and got myself a Noctigon Meteor M43 with Nichia 219Bs in it. I don't regret it though, awesome little coke can!


----------



## TCY

KeepingItLight said:


> The *ZebraLight SC63Fd* sounds enticing. If it can get a minimum of around 900 lumens on its highest mode, that would be good enough for me. The idea of 90 CRI, 5000K, and 900 lumens in the SC63 format is sweet!
> 
> Unfortunately, I cannot afford to buy all the variants of the new ZebraLights, so I will have to chose carefully.



That would be hard to resist. Perfect successor to the SC62W.


----------



## twistedraven

I hope they're using the 90cri 5000k XHP35 emitter that's cherry-picked. That would be very nice!


----------



## Fireclaw18

twistedraven said:


> I hope they're using the 90cri 5000k XHP35 emitter that's cherry-picked. That would be very nice!




Me too. 

I wonder when they will post pictures of the SC63.


----------



## markr6

Fireclaw18 said:


> I wonder when they will post pictures of the SC63.



I know! This is very odd, even for ZL.


----------



## scs

Perhaps the new styling would resemble the curved tapering head of its bigger brother and the area around the switch would be made more flush with the rest of the head for a more streamlined look.


----------



## holygeez03

Looks like I will almost definitely be skipping this generation... the output of 63w is not perceivably higher, especially since I mostly use my 62w on H2 or lower modes, which are about the same as 63... runtimes are slightly better (on paper), but I'm always able to charge my battery when it drops to ~50% for this light... and then there's the battery compatibility issue... when does the SC64w release?


----------



## scs

The battery restriction is a big minus for me as well. Is there a possibility that newer, higher capacity unprotected 18650s in the future would need to be longer? Hate to have a light that can't use newer batteries.

That 90 CRI potential does draw on me strongly though. Hope that materializes.


----------



## 18650

scs said:


> The battery restriction is a big minus for me as well. Is there a possibility that newer, higher capacity unprotected 18650s in the future would need to be longer? Hate to have a light that can't use newer batteries. That 90 CRI potential does draw on me strongly though. Hope that materializes.


 Is it confirmed anywhere that it will be 90 CRI or does the possibility of ZL using the higher output 80 CRI ones still exist? I have no issues with the batteries. Most of mine are already unprotected hybrid 18650s.


----------



## twistedraven

The 4500 kelvin XHP35 being used in the SC600 MK3s is already at 80cri, so I hope the high CRI strictly means 85 or greater.


----------



## snowlover91

18650 said:


> Is it confirmed anywhere that it will be 90 CRI or does the possibility of ZL using the higher output 80 CRI ones still exist? I have no issues with the batteries. Most of mine are already unprotected hybrid 18650s.



From what they told me it sounded like the SC63c/d series, if they release them, would be 90 CRI and likely 4K and 5k options. They haven't officially decided on it yet though because the process they use is time consuming and right now their production is dedicated to the MK3 and SC63 preorders. I imagine in February or March they may release them if they decide to, I certainly hope so as a 90+ CRI SC63 in 5k sounds nice.


----------



## oldeng95

Would it ask too much to have a Hanko twisted head ?


----------



## RNLAF

RNLAF said:


> I'm thinking of buyinga SC62 or maybe, if I'm able to remain patient, the SC63.


Pulled the trigger on the SC62w neutral white today. Also ordered the Xtar VC2 Plus Master and a KeepPower 18650 3500mAh. Seems like the new SC600 Mark III has some issues although not everyone seems to think so. As a flashlight newbie I will probably be very impressed with the output of the SC62. Besides, I wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the output of the 62 and 63 unless maybe I was able to put them side by side.
I'm not afraid of unprotected cells but it's my guess that the 63 will be as picky about batteries as the 600 Mark III. Something I don't have to worry about with the 62. 

If you need me, I'll be waiting by the mailbox...


----------



## snowlover91

RNLAF said:


> Pulled the trigger on the SC62w neutral white today. Also ordered the Xtar VC2 Plus Master and a KeepPower 18650 3500mAh. Seems like the new SC600 Mark III has some issues although not everyone seems to think so. As a flashlight newbie I will probably be very impressed with the output of the SC62. Besides, I wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the output of the 62 and 63 unless maybe I was able to put them side by side.
> I'm not afraid of unprotected cells but it's my guess that the 63 will be as picky about batteries as the 600 Mark III. Something I don't have to worry about with the 62.
> 
> If you need me, I'll be waiting by the mailbox...



You'll enjoy the SC62w, until the SC63w is released and shows otherwise I still consider the SC62 as the best compact 18650 light, hands down. Great UI, NW and CW options, well made and durable.


----------



## UnderPar

snowlover91 said:


> You'll enjoy the SC62w, until the SC63w is released and shows otherwise I still consider the SC62 as the best compact 18650 light, hands down. Great UI, NW and CW options, well made and durable.



I second to this...


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> You'll enjoy the SC62w, until the SC63w is released and shows otherwise I still consider the SC62 as the best compact 18650 light, hands down. Great UI, NW and CW options, well made and durable.



Yes...such a tough one to beat. I wish they would put the darn SC63 photo up already!!! 3D drawing...sketch on a napkin...something!


----------



## fnsooner

markr6 said:


> Yes...such a tough one to beat. I wish they would put the darn SC63 photo up already!!! 3D drawing...sketch on a napkin...something!


Heh heh, not only do I want to see what my hard earned cash has bought, I worry that if they can't get a picture yet, can they meet their shipping date of Jan 31.

Life on the cutting edge, I guess.:shrug:


----------



## holygeez03

Maybe ZL is waiting to take the photo until after they make a last minute decision on whether or not to ship with the new pogo-pin contacts or use SC62 tailcaps...


----------



## snowlover91

Someone needs to email them about it today so we can find out about the picture lol  I've emailed them enough about future SC63 models so it's someone else's turn to bug them!


----------



## Lumencrazy

snowlover91 said:


> Someone needs to email them about it today so we can find out about the picture lol  I've emailed them enough about future SC63 models so it's someone else's turn to bug them!



Another participant in the marketing strategy of “... how to create consumer demand, and get him to spread the word for free.....”


----------



## markr6

Planning on a photo of this light tomorrow. I hope...


----------



## holygeez03

Is this officially the first pre-order for a flashlight without a photo of the light?


----------



## Lumencrazy

holygeez03 said:


> Is this officially the first pre-order for a flashlight without a photo of the light?



People are ordering. By the time the photo is up they just may be sold out.


----------



## snowlover91

markr6 said:


> Planning on a photo of this light tomorrow. I hope...



Did they tell you this or just guessing? They do seem to update things on Friday so maybe... I'll just send them an email this weekend if it's still not up and see what they say.


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Did they tell you this or just guessing? They do seem to update things on Friday so maybe... I'll just send them an email this weekend if it's still not up and see what they say.



Just a guess, but nothing yet. They did just confirm on the spreadsheet that the pogo pins will be used on the SC63 tail cap as we suspected.


----------



## snowlover91

I emailed them about pics for it so hopefully I hear back something today or pics get posted!


----------



## RNLAF

This afternoon I received my SC62w, Xtar VC2 Plus Master and KeepPower 18650 3500 mAh. Guess what... I love it! :twothumbs
The light is even smaller than I anticipated. The Neutral White beam is just what I was hoping for. Good balance between flood en throw and it has a very nice color. The greens look green and the browns look brown, what more can you want. Of course I have nothing to compare it to accept a Streamlight Survivor LED at work. So obviously I'm easily impressed. Even my wife, who absolutely has no interest in flashlights whatsoever, is impressed with this light.

It took me well over a month before I pulled the trigger on this light. During that time I almost daily browsed the CPF to read and learn about flashlights. I could have decided on the SC62w sooner but to me, deciding on which light to buy was half the fun!
I would just like to mention that it is because of all you guys I'm now the happy owner of a flashlight, charger and 18650 cell that fit my needs and I'm comfortable using.
:thanks: to all!
A special thanks to Selfbuilt and his great flashlight reviews and recommendation. It was his recommendation and reviews that pointed me in the direction of Zebralights.

Keep up the good work you guys! :goodjob:


----------



## sidecross

RNLAF
It is very pleasing for me to read that this CPF forum has been a help to so many people from many different nations! :twothumbs


----------



## recDNA

snowlover91 said:


> You'll enjoy the SC62w, until the SC63w is released and shows otherwise I still consider the SC62 as the best compact 18650 light, hands down. Great UI, NW and CW options, well made and durable.


Maybe not. The sc62w is more versatile battery wise and the difference in output would be indistinguishable unless viewed right next to each other.


----------



## gunga

Sc62w is better in some ways. I just wanted something new and don't like having doubles. I'll pre order a sc63w once I see a picture!


----------



## snowlover91

recDNA said:


> Maybe not. The sc62w is more versatile battery wise and the difference in output would be indistinguishable unless viewed right next to each other.



The SC62 is the best compact 18650 light around right now imo. Since we don't even know what the SC63 looks like or how it will perform that's why the SC62 is still the best. It remains to be seen if the SC63 will take that spot or not, we don't even know what it looks like yet lol. Chances are good though with similar runtimes (according to specs), 200 additional lumens for the neutral version and a smaller, lighter light. If they've fixed the battery rattle issue a few experienced with the MK3 then imo it will become the light to beat, especially if they release 90+ CRI versions.


----------



## snowlover91

For those concerned about the battery I noticed this on Zebralights page for the SC63 and MK3 lights. It appears they've built in not only a more sensitive PID regulator but also something to monitor and protect the battery. None of their other lights have this description which leads me to believe it's some new internal circuitry designed to keep everyone safe, and imo, it's much better than a cheap protection circuit on an 18650. See here below. 



PID thermal regulated outputs (two highest output levels) using 384 internal brightness levels and a calibrated 0.1C resolution temperature sensor.
*Builtin battery discharging protections with continuously monitored temperature, current, and voltage, plus a (2.7V) low voltage cutoff*


----------



## recDNA

Isn't a battery ruined if you drain it that low?


----------



## snowlover91

recDNA said:


> Isn't a battery ruined if you drain it that low?




2.7v under load which would be a resting voltage of 3.1-3.2v. I had that happen in one of my Nitecore lights once with a protected battery, circuit never tripped and the Nitecore protection stopped it. Resting voltage measured 3.2v which is a safe level to recharge from. You never want resting voltage under 2.8v because it's empty but higher than that is fine as long as it is recharged soon.

Also I personally would rather have a circuit built in to my light to measure multiple safety parameters like the temp, current and voltage vs a built in battery circuit that doesnt measure battery temp, an important factor also.


----------



## snowlover91

Just received a reply from ZL about the SC63 photos.. They said in about 4 days. From now (Sunday) that would be Thursday.


----------



## recDNA

I love the idea of PID. I am more conservative than many, however, so I wish it were more aggressive. If I use H1 for too long the flashlight gets uncomfortably hot in my hand. Not hot enough to damage circuitry but hot enough to damage me.

I also wush we could access all the modes PID can. I would like M1 to be brighter than it is. I would also like H2 to be brighter. There is a huge gap between H1 and H2. I basically use H2 for medium.


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Just received a reply from ZL about the SC63 photos.. They said in about 4 days. From now (Sunday) that would be Thursday.



Thanks for checking! I'm looking forward to seeing if it's anything like the SC5 photoshop hack I did a while back:


----------



## Glock27

I would prefer the ribbed design like the 62. I would think that the tube walls would have to be thicker (heavier) to do knurling. I'm always amazed how light a 62 feels without a battery.

G27


----------



## holygeez03

If it's going to share the bulkier SC5 design, the SC63 would probably be heavier than the 62... and the specs say it's lighter, most likely due to the slight length reduction.

The ability to list specs, but not have a photo makes me think that they are definitely changing the tailcap design to correct some issues that showed up in the SC600MKIII.

I would LOVE to see a deeper carry clip on the SC63... similar to the SC600. Or at least some improvement on the clip design of the SC52/SC5/SC62 that has a lot of rough/abrasive edges, and leaves a lot of light sticking out of the pocket..


----------



## snowlover91

recDNA said:


> I love the idea of PID. I am more conservative than many, however, so I wish it were more aggressive. If I use H1 for too long the flashlight gets uncomfortably hot in my hand. Not hot enough to damage circuitry but hot enough to damage me.
> 
> I also wush we could access all the modes PID can. I would like M1 to be brighter than it is. I would also like H2 to be brighter. There is a huge gap between H1 and H2. I basically use H2 for medium.



The PID in these new lights seems updated so it may be more aggressive. It produces 200 extra lumens with the approximate same runtimes on H1 which is why I'm guessing the PID might be more aggressive. Since I have an SC62w I'll be sure to give them a thorough comparison once my copy arrives, I'm guessing mid-February. I also like the new battery protection feature, monitoring the temp of the battery is a nice new feature! 

I'm curious as to what design they decide to go with also. Hopefully we find out Thursday or sooner! I know they're super busy with sales of the MK3 and preorders for the HI version and SC63 lights. Not to mention right after Christmas they probably have return/exchanges to deal with also.


----------



## markr6

Glock27 said:


> I'm always amazed how light a 62 feels without a battery.



Me too. When I got it in the mail used from another member, I thought they ripped me off by sending an empty box!

The SC5 is a TANK. I like it, but it's almost too over-engineered. I usually like that, but when you're dealing with these smaller lights, I'd rather ha the smallest/lightest possible within reason. Maybe the ribbed design will stick around after all.


----------



## hojobones

I was thinking about adding a magnet to the tailcap of the sc63 (like an olight I have that does). Has anyone done that? Just wondering what the best way to get it to stay on.


----------



## recDNA

snowlover91 said:


> The PID in these new lights seems updated so it may be more aggressive. It produces 200 extra lumens with the approximate same runtimes on H1 which is why I'm guessing the PID might be more aggressive. Since I have an SC62w I'll be sure to give them a thorough comparison once my copy arrives, I'm guessing mid-February. I also like the new battery protection feature, monitoring the temp of the battery is a nice new feature!
> 
> I'm curious as to what design they decide to go with also. Hopefully we find out Thursday or sooner! I know they're super busy with sales of the MK3 and preorders for the HI version and SC63 lights. Not to mention right after Christmas they probably have return/exchanges to deal with also.


I don't like unprotected icr because no matter how good flashlight protection is and how good charger is batteries can have an internal short. If protected the heat causes protection to be tripped. Gives you time to put battery in a bucket of sand.

That said, I must admit that if they can produce a 90+ CRI flashlight capable of 1000 lumens I will not be able to resist.


----------



## snowlover91

recDNA said:


> I don't like unprotected icr because no matter how good flashlight protection is and how good charger is batteries can have an internal short. If protected the heat causes protection to be tripped. Gives you time to put battery in a bucket of sand.
> 
> That said, I must admit that if they can produce a 90+ CRI flashlight capable of 1000 lumens I will not be able to resist.



I believe the Panasonic NCR18650GA are hybrid batteries, from what info I could dig up. In theory they would be safer than ICR or is it about the same? I would assume that if it has an internal short that Zebralights protection would recognize that also due to the increasing heat and shut the light off which would give time to do the same thing? I do hope they go with a 90+ CRI version it would be quite the light and they could theoretically get 900-1000 lumens out of it too.


----------



## Swede74

N.B. Insomnia-induced figment below - to the best of my knowledge, there's no such thing as a 3000 mAh Eneloop cell...yet. 




recDNA said:


> That said, I must admit that if they can produce a 90+ CRI flashlight capable of 1000 lumens I will not be able to resist.



All those high CRI lumens from a single Eneloop Maxi 3000 mAh, and I won't be able to resist either.


----------



## TCY

People, the SC63 photo is out. I assume it is a 3D sketch..I don't really like it.


----------



## twistedraven

Looks like they took an SC62 body and forgot to machine all the ribs out.


----------



## jak

Kind of a throwback to the SC60... I think I like it.


----------



## TCY

I wonder if they are going to add some knurling. After SC600 Mk III, this looks unfinished to me.


----------



## jak

TCY said:


> I wonder if they are going to add some knurling. After SC600 Mk III, this looks unfinished to me.



Looks ok, but a bit busy.


----------



## snowlover91

Hmmm interesting design. It's like a blend between the SC62 and the old style SC60. Not 100% sure if I like the new design or not, I'll wait to see it in person and how it feels in the hand before making my decision.


----------



## holygeez03

That looks fake!


----------



## TCY

jak said:


> Looks ok, but a bit busy.



The original pic looks like some older model's head combined with SC62's ribbed body but half of it is photoshopped. I really do hope ZL comes up with something prettier, at least keep SC62's rib design.


----------



## snowlover91

I still have my preorder up. I'm not a fan of the new design if indeed this is the body style they decided to go with. It just looks unfinished to me, a strange design for sure but I'll give it a try and see how I like it. If not I can always return it for a refund or resell it.


----------



## oneinthaair

TCY said:


> The original pic looks like some older model's head combined with SC62's ribbed body but half of it is photoshopped. I really do hope ZL comes up with something prettier, at least keep SC62's rib design.



I like it with the Knurly in the middle.


----------



## snowlover91

I wonder if the smooth portion in the middle could be to prevent the clip from damaging pant pockets? I know sometimes with mine the ribbing catches them, perhaps they changed the design to a smooth middle to make it work better when you clip it?


----------



## TCY

oneinthaair said:


> I like it with the Knurly in the middle.



It's looks better to me than the original one.


----------



## gunga

I wish the knurling was real.


----------



## Fireclaw18

gunga said:


> I wish the knurling was real.




Me too. The light needs knurling.


----------



## snowlover91

Fireclaw18 said:


> Me too. The light needs knurling.




Since I preordered and paid for the faster shipping I'll compare it with my SC62w when it arrives. Not a big fan of the new design but I'll wait until I have it in my hands to see how it feels.


----------



## LightMagic

What are some main improvements over the old? 1126 lumens over 930? Anything else worth mentioning?


----------



## ozzie_c_cobblepot

4mm shorter is an improvement.


----------



## fnsooner

jak said:


> Kind of a throwback to the SC60...


Exactly my thoughts. Looks good to me.


----------



## markr6

I don't like it, but I was never a big fan of the SC62 either. But given the two, I prefer the SC62. No logo on this? I'm guessing they're not 100% finished. Maybe it will look better after that, and maybe it will get a flat area for the logo? Too "unfinished" right now.


----------



## cmd

jak said:


> Kind of a throwback to the SC60... I think I like it.



I'm digging it, really like the curvy middle. It looks like very fine knurling in that area which hopefully will be plenty grippy. I'll reserve final judgment until it is in hand but it looks like it will be nicely comfortable.

Regardless, you have to admire the amount of extra machining that went into this new design. Zebralight went the extra mile on this one and I applaud them for it.


----------



## fnsooner

ATM, I don’t like or dislike its looks. I am definitely not blown away by it. It looks like a Zebralight and it looks like functionality drove its design. Can’t wait to get mine.


----------



## markr6

I was just hoping for some knurling like the others. Looking forward to getting this one, though. Still some decent waiting to do 

Pretty big gap on the tail cap in their photo. I've always had some on my SC62, but not like that.


----------



## Swede74

I only need six words to summarize my thoughts on the new design: Change for the sake of change. And now, a few more to make a mockery of my professed succinctness. I like how they seem to have done away with the lettering. It makes for a sleek, anonymous look that really appeals to me. In another Zebralight thread I even argued that no brand or model number printed on the flashlight may actually increase interest in and awareness of the manufacturer.


----------



## uofaengr

Looks like a table leg or an unfinished SC62. Either finish machining some ribs or add some knurling. Not a fan of smooth flashlight bodies at all especially small ones that are harder to hold.


----------



## jak

I'm disappointed in how much time I'm spending staring at this light debating whether I like it or not. But it's growing on me. I am curious if branding will be added as well.

I think overall the design is an improvement, functionally speaking. It does seem like it will be easier in and out of the pocket. And I feel like it will be more comfortable to hold. In fact, if you take out your ribbed SC62 and hold it in your hand, and then imagine the middle being smooth, it seems like it could work, without a major sacrifice on grip. I'd wager the smoothness adds to the perception of being smaller as well.

I've never thought Zebralights were all that pretty to look at, so at this point, it's not a bother to me. Excited to get mine!

(Sidenote: It's so annoying this same conversation is taking place on that 50+ page thread discussing 2 separate models.)


----------



## jhe888

I don't like the look, which seems a silly thing to say about a tool. But I still don't like it.

The ribs look like they couldn't decide whether they should keep ribs or get rid of them.

Is the main body concave a little? Maybe a weight saving measure?


----------



## recDNA

I don't like anything about it....unless they make a high output 90+ cri model. I prefer the looks of sc62 and I don't need it smaller at the expense of forcing me to buy batteries I hate.


----------



## JStraus

Well you can put me in the "It's growing on me" camp. Growing from a positive place to begin with.

I thought that Zebralights were pretty ugly when they added their ribs to the bodies, and also thought the OG SC600 looked silly compared to the tactical offerings at the time. I love ZL design now, but it's because the function is so good that my mind sees the design as being good as a result. 

I really like the elegant hourglass sides!

My pre-order will stand...


----------



## Vol

There is not enough depth in the metal to knurl

I find it pleasant


----------



## tonkem

I like it, and will likely upgrade from the SC62 CW to this one.


----------



## henry1960

jak said:


> Looks ok, but a bit busy.
> I Love It!!!...Glad I Ordered One When They First Had It On The Pre Order List!!


----------



## markr6

That mockup does look a LOT better. ZL probably saw that and thought "you son of a..."


----------



## scs

I dig it as well.


----------



## scs

ZL rib design has always reminded me of these massage rollers: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71DT8ubiNgL._SY355_.jpg


----------



## jak

markr6 said:


> That mockup does look a LOT better. ZL probably saw that and thought "you son of a..."


Haha!

I think smooth is gonna be better though. With the ribbing, the fins on the head, and then the knurling, it looks like every flashlight design element packed into one light. 

I do see the 'smooth looks unfinished' argument though. But if you watch closely as you pocket your SC62 with the clip, you'll see smooth is going to spare your jeans/pants pocket.


----------



## Glock27

Looks like there's more mass in the head for thermal management. The smooth section will be easier on pockets. I typically pull my 62w from my pocket at least 30 times per day. Knurling near where the clip rests would be disastrous to pockets!
Looking forward to the 63w and can't wait to pre-order a high CRI variant.

G27


----------



## OrlandoLights

I like it, a lot. Looks like an artifact from the future. I think it'll be comfortable to hold, and as others have said it'll be easier to pocket without the knurling.


----------



## Lumencrazy

Looks like the area around the bezel has been reinforced and rounded (a weak point on my 62w), and the light has been optimized for use with unprotected batteries. (all of my other lights (Armytek) have built in protection circuits). So, clearly it is a winner for me. Not afraid of the dark so I never run on high. As a result, my batteries typically last more than 2 months. So far the 62w has been my light of choice for camping in the Pacific Northwest.


----------



## gunga

Not sure I like the smooth section but I'll probably end up buying it. Maybe even pre-order. I liked the sc62w enough to try this out.


----------



## Overclocker

i'm gonna stick a wide band of 3M GITD tape over that flat spot. perfect


----------



## markr6

Glock27 said:


> can't wait to pre-order a high CRI variant.



That will be the light to end all lights for me! As long as the output is there, unlike the huge drop of the SC62w>SC62d.

Seems too good to be true, so I'm not expecting it to happen even though ZL is sort of working on it.


----------



## holygeez03

It would be cool if ZL offered some sort of rubbery grip that slipped over the concave smooth section and would stay put... the concave walls may help it stay put.


----------



## twistedraven

The output drop from SC62w to SC62D never bothered me. After about 10 minutes, the PID drops the output to about 50-60%, which nets the SC62W at closer around 450-550 lumens. For long term tasks like hiking and/or using it throughout the day, I value the constant guaranteed lumen output for 3+ hours.

I'll be interested in the high mode of the new SC63 model that doesn't have PID. I hope it's at least comparable to the older SC62w, where it's 300+ lumens for near 4 hours.


----------



## Lumencrazy

I (personally) cannot understand why more lumens is such an obsession in most of the threads on this forum. At 60 years of age a diffuse 100 lumen beam is more than enough to fully light up the world in front of me at a camp site (in the tent, 0.5 lumens). Bright flashlights completely destroy any night vision one has. The brighter the beam the worse it gets and we instantly become victims of the dark. We are driven by the need to turn night into day, conquer and alter mother nature (meanwhile, pissing off all the nocturnal animals, (but who really cares about that anymore)) in order to assert our technical prowess and address our fear of the dark. In the process, we miss the benefit and enjoyment of a peaceful moment sitting at a mountain lake in complete darkness. There is just so much more than just beam intensity. For me, a diffuse, high CRI, warm 4000k light (what the laws of nature chose for the moon for some reason we do not yet fully understand) gets me out there and back repeatedly, all on one battery. From the perspective of survival a strategy using 1000-plus lumen lights, announcing your presence to everyone within a two mile radius, while burning through 18650’s like no tomorrow just does not make sense.


----------



## markr6

twistedraven said:


> The output drop from SC62w to SC62D never bothered me. After about 10 minutes, the PID drops the output to about 50-60%, which nets the SC62W at closer around 450-550 lumens. For long term tasks like hiking and/or using it throughout the day, I value the constant guaranteed lumen output for 3+ hours.
> 
> I'll be interested in the high mode of the new SC63 model that doesn't have PID. I hope it's at least comparable to the older SC62w, where it's 300+ lumens for near 4 hours.



Yes, but *326lm* for 3.9hr is also an option on the SC62w. Then IF I need it, I can use the higher mode for a quick shot here and there. I like having it all in one light.


----------



## markr6

Lumencrazy said:


> I (personally) cannot understand why more lumens is such an obsession in most of the threads on this forum. At 60 years of age a diffuse 100 lumen beam is more than enough to fully light up the world in front of me at a camp site (in the tent, 0.5 lumens).



I've used the 1020lm and especially 620lm modes in the past when hiking at night. It's a nice option instead of reaching for another light. Especially when I'm hiking alone at night (99% of the time) in a new area, it doesn't hurt to have some quick "daylight".

I'll probably be using it this weekend. Arriving at the trailhead around 10PM after driving 5 hours. 16" of snow on the ground. Trucking thru the woods on snowshoes looking for a place to hang the hammock and setup camp...I'll take my H600w which can give me anything from .01 to 1020lm


----------



## Lumencrazy

markr6 said:


> Yes, but *326lm* for 3.9hr is also an option on the SC62w. Then IF I need it, I can use the higher mode for a quick shot here and there. I like having it all in one light.




I could not agree with you more. I have more lights than I need including the awesome Armytek ViKing/Predator Pro V2.5’s. But the one I use 99% of the time (after trying them al) even when wilderness camping, is my SC62w. Don’t get me wrong, ocassionaly I will crank it up. But 99% of the time it runs somewhere at or below the 321Lm level. Time for a 63, hopefully in a high CRI version (it looks more durable around the bezel). Seeing color really helps when digging through your backpack in the dark looking for those red/brown color socks. So far, the Sc62w has been an awesome light!!!!!


----------



## Creezy

Like the new design, but the only problem I can see is there isn't enough room to attach a diffuser tip like I can on the SC62. I don't use it that much, but just an observation.


----------



## Finnegan

That looks fabulous, like a finished cohesive design.


----------



## JStraus

Lumencrazy said:


> I (personally) cannot understand why more lumens is such an obsession in most of the threads on this forum. At 60 years of age a diffuse 100 lumen beam is more than enough to fully light up the world in front of me at a camp site (in the tent, 0.5 lumens). Bright flashlights completely destroy any night vision one has. The brighter the beam the worse it gets and we instantly become victims of the dark. We are driven by the need to turn night into day, conquer and alter mother nature (meanwhile, pissing off all the nocturnal animals, (but who really cares about that anymore)) in order to assert our technical prowess and address our fear of the dark. In the process, we miss the benefit and enjoyment of a peaceful moment sitting at a mountain lake in complete darkness. There is just so much more than just beam intensity. For me, a diffuse, high CRI, warm 4000k light (what the laws of nature chose for the moon for some reason we do not yet fully understand) gets me out there and back repeatedly, all on one battery. From the perspective of survival a strategy using 1000-plus lumen lights, announcing your presence to everyone within a two mile radius, while burning through 18650’s like no tomorrow just does not make sense.



Relevant username.


----------



## sidecross

markr6 said:


> Yes, but *326lm* for 3.9hr is also an option on the SC62w. Then IF I need it, I can use the higher mode for a quick shot here and there. I like having it all in one light.


I also keep my Zebralights second high at the 300 plus lumens setting. If needed it is very easy to adjust the secondary high setting to the other two options. :thumbsup:


----------



## twistedraven

I also think it's nice to have a burst turbo as well, but upon receiving the H600FD, I find myself not using the highest high as much as I thought I would. I keep it on the 255 lumen setting.

What I'm really after is just higher lumens and longer runtimes and higher CRI out of the high without the PID.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

Lumencrazy said:


> I (personally) cannot understand why more lumens is such an obsession in most of the threads on this forum. At 60 years of age a diffuse 100 lumen beam is more than enough to fully light up the world in front of me at a camp site (in the tent, 0.5 lumens). Bright flashlights completely destroy any night vision one has. The brighter the beam the worse it gets and we instantly become victims of the dark. We are driven by the need to turn night into day, conquer and alter mother nature (meanwhile, pissing off all the nocturnal animals, (but who really cares about that anymore)) in order to assert our technical prowess and address our fear of the dark. In the process, we miss the benefit and enjoyment of a peaceful moment sitting at a mountain lake in complete darkness. There is just so much more than just beam intensity. For me, a diffuse, high CRI, warm 4000k light (what the laws of nature chose for the moon for some reason we do not yet fully understand) gets me out there and back repeatedly, all on one battery. From the perspective of survival a strategy using 1000-plus lumen lights, announcing your presence to everyone within a two mile radius, while burning through 18650’s like no tomorrow just does not make sense.



What if my survival strategy is to blaze a light saber of light into the sky so I will be noticed and rescued?


----------



## jhe888

I am waiting for a light I can use to weld. In the meantime give me brighter and brighter lights.

(Actually, on my lights with a 1000 lumen mode, I rarely use it. And 200 is usually plenty for even a task I want a lot of light on. I often use the moonlight modes.)


----------



## 18650

Lumencrazy said:


> I (personally) cannot understand why more lumens is such an obsession in most of the threads on this forum. At 60 years of age a diffuse 100 lumen beam is more than enough to fully light up the world in front of me at a camp site (in the tent, 0.5 lumens). Bright flashlights completely destroy any night vision one has. The brighter the beam the worse it gets and we instantly become victims of the dark. We are driven by the need to turn night into day, conquer and alter mother nature (meanwhile, pissing off all the nocturnal animals, (but who really cares about that anymore)) in order to assert our technical prowess and address our fear of the dark. In the process, we miss the benefit and enjoyment of a peaceful moment sitting at a mountain lake in complete darkness. There is just so much more than just beam intensity. For me, a diffuse, high CRI, warm 4000k light (what the laws of nature chose for the moon for some reason we do not yet fully understand) gets me out there and back repeatedly, all on one battery. From the perspective of survival a strategy using 1000-plus lumen lights, announcing your presence to everyone within a two mile radius, while burning through 18650’s like no tomorrow just does not make sense.


 We do things other than camp out in the wilderness.


----------



## scs

I think Lumencrazy makes a good point.
Unless you need to light up a rather large area, light up something from far away, or light up a rather large area from far away, you really don't NEED that many lumens, though you might THINK so or WANT so.
Constantly blazing away when you don't NEED to is wasteful and can be couterproductive, or just plain stupid.
BUT, it is comforting to know that you can call on a lot of light in case you NEED to.


----------



## Lumencrazy

18650 said:


> We do things other than camp out in the wilderness.




Which is why I started with “ I (Personally)...


----------



## sticktodrum

JStraus said:


> Relevant username.


He's crazy for only 100 of them.


----------



## 18650

Lumencrazy said:


> Which is why I stared with “ I (Personally)...


 Okay. Personally I don't see the point of buying any of these expensive things if you only need small middling output. $20 Maglite is enough for that.


----------



## scs

18650 said:


> Okay. Personally I don't see the point of buying any of these expensive things if you only need small middling output. $20 Maglite is enough for that.



One may not need more light than some cheaper alternative, but the other perks offered by these more expensive things are still desirable: HA finish, good regulation and runtimes, beam quality, beam type, and TINT, etc..


----------



## twistedraven

One can get lots of lumen output for cheap as well. I like Zebralight because of the attention to tint quality and color rendering, the form factor, and especially the UI.

300-400 lumens isn't small or middling output either.


----------



## holygeez03

18650 said:


> Okay. Personally I don't see the point of buying any of these expensive things if you only need small middling output. $20 Maglite is enough for that.




I bought a ZL H502c and I never use it above 1 lumen!!!


----------



## Lumencrazy

When you wake up in the middle of the night inside a tent, and it is so dark you cannot see your hand waving in front of your face, even the 0.07 lumen setting (the middle setting in the low range where I have my 62w programmed) is more than enough to see. The big plus is you still retain your night vision (that was at its maximum when you first woke up) and you will not disturb the person beside you (unless you feel the need to scan their pupils to see if they are still alive: Not recommended). 30, 1000 lumens? Hell I will pay $85 for the 0.07 and everything else that goes with this light. A new 63w in a high CRI version? Oh yea!


----------



## tonkem

All of this is true, but it is also nice to have maximum output, if that is desired as well. I carry a Sc62 CW and use both the moonlight modes at night, as well as the 100 lumen h2 modes. The 100 lumen H2 mode is almost always more than enough light for all situations. If I need more light, I grab my Zebralight S6330 or Noctigon Meteor M43  Never can have too many lumens, but for me, they must also come in a small package. 

This is the purpose of this board, allowing us all to have valid opinions of what we value in a light. I have spent thousands of dollars on lights of all sizes, and for me, the light must be small AND powerful for me to consider. I have owned a Polarion PH40, thousand dollar Lupine lights, but Zebralight keeps me coming back, for their size and power. I hope they make the 6330 again, at 4000 lumens with the new LEDs they are putting in the 63, so I can pick another one of them up. Love the small size and power.. My $.02.



Lumencrazy said:


> When you wake up in the middle of the night inside a tent, and it is so dark you cannot see your hand waving in front of your face, even the 0.07 lumen setting (the middle setting in the low range where I have my 62w programmed) is more than enough to see. The big plus is you still retain your night vision (that was at its maximum when you first woke up) and you will not disturb the person beside you (unless you feel the need to scan their pupils to see if they are still alive: Not recommended). 30, 1000 lumens? Hell I will pay $85 for the 0.07 and everything else that goes with this light. A new 63w in a high CRI version? Oh yea!


----------



## bodhran

When camping I leave mine on the .01 level all night. If I need it I'm not fumbling around in the dark trying to find it.


----------



## sidecross

18650 said:


> Okay. Personally I don't see the point of buying any of these expensive things if you only need small middling output. $20 Maglite is enough for that.


How about this analogy: how often is your automobile engine running at near 'red line', but at the same time you do use your engine when needed at high RPM. Having the ability for high output does not necessarily mean you use it all of the time.


----------



## Lumencrazy

Fireclaw18 said:


> Flashlight manufacturers like Zebralight tend to be a little more conservative than the average flashlight modder. At 2000 lumens it would get pretty hot pretty fast. They probably don't want it to get that hot. Even if they used the 6v xhp35 they'd probably have limited output to around 1300 lumens.



High temperatures degrade the LED. Some care, some do not. Most are not even aware.


----------



## wardropc

bodhran said:


> When camping I leave mine on the .01 level all night. If I need it I'm not fumbling around in the dark trying to find it.




That's genius, I wish I had thought of it before. I'm stealing your idea. I always have loved slow in the dark tail caps, and this is a good alternative.


----------



## waxing twilight

Lumencrazy said:


> a diffuse 100 lumen beam is more than enough to fully light up the world in front of me at a camp site (in the tent, 0.5 lumens). Bright flashlights completely destroy any night vision one has. In the process, we miss the benefit and enjoyment of a peaceful moment sitting at a mountain lake in complete darkness. There is just so much more than just beam intensity. For me, a diffuse, high CRI, warm 4000k light gets me out there and back repeatedly, all on one battery.



I agree, I rarely use more than ~15-45 lumens outside, and moonlight modes when that is enough light to make out what I need to see. Beam quality, type, cri and tint, UI, variety of moonlight modes, "pocketability," and runtimes are more important to me than max lumens and what I really love about ZL's. You can miss out on a lot of nature by announcing your presence.

I have had situations before where I did not have enough throw on me, ie., once on a night run, to make out a pack of skunks ahead of me, until just in time, and some extra lumens or throw would have been nice to give a little more warning/distance. I'm still not going to run with a thrower or higher lumens, but if I do catch something that may be worth early identification, having the ability if needed, is on my list now, lol. I'm just not sure what combinations of flood, throw and max output is ideal yet.


----------



## oeL

18650 said:


> Okay. Personally I don't see the point of buying any of these expensive things if you only need small middling output. $20 Maglite is enough for that.



There are several logical reasons for 1000+ lumen Zebralights - brightness, reliability, usability for example. Personally I'm using SC600w MkII for mountainbiking at night, for example. Or walking in the forest in a heavier terrain. Very very useful light, very small, and fits in the pocket "in case you might need it".

But don't forget the illogical reasons that are not less important and legitimate: Fascinating masterpiece of technique, I just like them, cos I can, I'm a flashaholic... and so I'm using a SC62w for finding the keyhole in our house door. And soon I will do the same with a SC63w. Not very reasonable, that's right... but I like it this way 

BTW: Sometimes we do a barbecue, and sometimes when it's dark I'm starting there one of my old carbide lamps, my Petromax, or my Aladdin. Of course I could use a $5 petroleum lamp as well. But why should I?


----------



## ozzie_c_cobblepot

Plus it's embarrassing to be the "flashlight guy" in a group of people and to NOT have the most powerful light (most lumens, farthest throw). Nobody cares about runtime in those conversations.


----------



## markr6

waxing twilight said:


> You can miss out on a lot of nature by announcing your presence.



I spooked a black bear last fall; luckily he ran the other way as they almost always do. But still, I'll take all the "announcing" I can get. I'm in the habit of coughing/clearing my throat just for that reason. Or I'll yell out or talk to myself every now and then.


----------



## recDNA

markr6 said:


> I spooked a black bear last fall; luckily he ran the other way as they almost always do. But still, I'll take all the "announcing" I can get. I'm in the habit of coughing/clearing my throat just for that reason. Or I'll yell out or talk to myself every now and then.



Careful, that can become a habit! LOL


----------



## shira

markr6 said:


> *That will be the light to end all lights* for me! As long as the output is there, unlike the huge drop of the SC62w>SC62d.
> 
> Seems too good to be true, so I'm not expecting it to happen even though ZL is sort of working on it.



I'm thinking the same thing. But the reality of the situation is that a couple of years from now there will be a new LED that allows ZL to create a CRI-95 "SC64d" that produces 1400 lumens, with a run-time of three hours on high. I seriously doubt any of us will be able to resist.


----------



## Finnegan

Strangely, the shape grows on you...


----------



## jak

Finnegan said:


> Strangely, the shape grows on you...


Oh my gosh, this is so true for me as well!


----------



## psychbeat

Curious if the H600(w) MKIII will have a new shape too... 
I don't really care what it looks like (I'll get one anyways) but I'd be cool with knurling over the ribbed look.
Even smooth is fine w me - doesn't look too bad IMHO.


----------



## fnsooner

Finnegan said:


> Strangely, the shape grows on you...





jak said:


> Oh my gosh, this is so true for me as well!


It is like they slightly change the picture every day.


----------



## Tapis

shira said:


> I'm thinking the same thing. But the reality of the situation is that a couple of years from now there will be a new LED that allows ZL to create a CRI-95 "SC64d" that produces 1400 lumens, with a run-time of three hours on high. I seriously doubt any of us will be able to resist.


That is why I'm passing on any new ZL light including this one until I see a real contester to my SC62w. Having a couple of hundred more lumens and an inflated head is not a good enough reason to get rid of an already wonderful light.


----------



## jak

I'd like to pose a question to all the people that say the improvements in this light aren't enough to make the _switch/upgrade from a 62 to a 63_...

*Would you buy this light it if were priced at $35?
*
Because that's kinda how I view this transaction? I don't think it'd be too hard to sell my 62 for $50. So for $35 I will get...



a brand *new* light
brighter and longer runtimes (granted, those improvements are minor)
a design that will be smaller (4mm is relatively substantial)
easier on pocket egress/ingress *and* wear (smooth body)

What say you? Is $35 worth it? 

If you insist on protected cells, or are too greatly inconvenienced by selling lights, I guess I'd understand your reasoning for not making the change. But the "not bright enough" or "not enough CRI" improvement are your criteria, does the fact that it's potentially only $35 sway you? Or $45 if you need to buy new cells?


----------



## recDNA

jak said:


> I'd like to pose a question to all the people that say the improvements in this light aren't enough to make the _switch/upgrade from a 62 to a 63_...
> 
> *Would you buy this light it if were priced at $35?
> *
> Because that's kinda how I view this transaction? I don't think it'd be too hard to sell my 62 for $50. So for $35 I will get...
> 
> 
> 
> a brand *new* light
> brighter and longer runtimes (granted, those improvements are minor)
> a design that will be smaller (4mm is relatively substantial)
> easier on pocket egress/ingress *and* wear (smooth body)
> 
> What say you? Is $35 worth it?
> 
> If you insist on protected cells, or are too greatly inconvenienced by selling lights, I guess I'd understand your reasoning for not making the change. But the "not bright enough" or "not enough CRI" improvement are your criteria, does the fact that it's potentially only $35 sway you? Or $45 if you need to buy new cells?


No. I actually prefer rattle free springs and a safer battery


----------



## markr6

The battery rattle thing is still worrying me a bit, but I'm giving it a try. Who knows, it could be totally different than the SC600 III. Well, not "different" as in a new design, but you know what I mean. Patiently waiting!


----------



## uofaengr

jak said:


> I'd like to pose a question to all the people that say the improvements in this light aren't enough to make the _switch/upgrade from a 62 to a 63_...
> 
> *Would you buy this light it if were priced at $35?
> *
> Because that's kinda how I view this transaction? I don't think it'd be too hard to sell my 62 for $50. So for $35 I will get...
> 
> 
> 
> a brand *new* light
> brighter and longer runtimes (granted, those improvements are minor)
> a design that will be smaller (4mm is relatively substantial)
> easier on pocket egress/ingress *and* wear (smooth body)
> 
> What say you? Is $35 worth it?
> 
> If you insist on protected cells, or are too greatly inconvenienced by selling lights, I guess I'd understand your reasoning for not making the change. But the "not bright enough" or "not enough CRI" improvement are your criteria, does the fact that it's potentially only $35 sway you? Or $45 if you need to buy new cells?


How would you get it for $35 unless you got your 62 for free? If you paid $85 for it and sell it for $50, then you're $35 in the hole. Then pay $85 for the 63, that puts you at $120 total invested in one light rather than having two for $170. It's all perspective and how one justifies it I guess.


----------



## holygeez03

I assume he's writing off the "$35 in the hole" as the utility he has received from using the light for the past year or so...

But no, I don't think it is worth it to upgrade from 62 to 63... If I didn't own a SC62w, I would have a hard time right now deciding between it and the 63w.

And I would definitely NOT sell my SC62w for $50... for that price, I would definitely find a place for it.


----------



## uofaengr

holygeez03 said:


> And I would definitely NOT sell my SC62w for $50... for that price, I would definitely find a place for it.



Here here...it's just too good.


----------



## 18650

recDNA said:


> No. I actually prefer rattle free springs and a safer battery


 You should be using IMR batteries then not protected ones.


----------



## recDNA

18650 said:


> You should be using IMR batteries then not protected ones.


The only imr battery I trust is aw. It has a button top so won't fit. The new higher capacity aw "imr" battery is a hybrid. Not safe chemistry. Basically the same as any other high draw unprotected battery. I would not hesitate to use the lower capacity aw imr but it will not fit.

Regardless of battery type I prefer springs to pegs and would rather keep output to 3 amps max.

Why take even the slightest additional risk to get maybe 200 extra lumens for a minute or two before pid knocks it down?


----------



## gunga

Oh well. Couldn't resist. Pre-ordered. Hope it doesn't suck.


----------



## snowlover91

recDNA said:


> The only imr battery I trust is aw. It has a button top so won't fit. The new higher capacity aw "imr" battery is a hybrid. Not safe chemistry. Basically the same as any other high draw unprotected battery. I would not hesitate to use the lower capacity aw imr but it will not fit.
> 
> Regardless of battery type I prefer springs to pegs and would rather keep output to 3 amps max.
> 
> Why take even the slightest additional risk to get maybe 200 extra lumens for a minute or two before pid knocks it down?



Im sure they weighed the trade offs and went with the design, as they stated on another site, to both reduce the length as well as monitor the battery temp with their protection circuit. Considering that it wouldn't be hard for a protected battery to short itself out and people have had that happen I wouldn't consider protected batteries "safer." If anything they're more dangerous by giving a false sense of security that they can be abused but it's okay because they're protected. All of my batteries whether protected or unprotected I regularly check and visually inspect them each time they go on the charger and in my light. I check them while on the charger to prevent overcharging and watch for signs when in use that they need recharging. I would prefer a much nicer protection circuit built in to my light versus one in the battery that's cheaper and could also cause a short. Just my preference but to each his own!


----------



## Fireclaw18

recDNA said:


> The only imr battery I trust is aw. It has a button top so won't fit. The new higher capacity aw "imr" battery is a hybrid. Not safe chemistry. Basically the same as any other high draw unprotected battery. I would not hesitate to use the lower capacity aw imr but it will not fit.
> 
> Regardless of battery type I prefer springs to pegs and would rather keep output to 3 amps max.
> 
> Why take even the slightest additional risk to get maybe 200 extra lumens for a minute or two before pid knocks it down?



The lower capacity old AW IMR 1600 mAh IMR cells should fit. They have a button top, but they're actually very short. Basically the same length as a modern typical unprotected flat top.


----------



## light-wolff

snowlover91 said:


> Im sure they weighed the trade offs and went with the design, as they stated on another site, to both reduce the length as well as monitor the battery temp with their protection circuit.


This makes me curious, where's that info about monitoring battery temperature from?



Fireclaw18 said:


> The lower capacity old AW IMR 1600 mAh IMR cells should fit. They have a button top, but they're actually very short. Basically the same length as a modern typical unprotected flat top.


I would consider a modern mixed chemistry cell like NCR GA, LG MJ1 or SDI 35E safer than an old tech IMR Li-Ion of a non-disclosed manufacturer with AW wrapper on it.


----------



## recDNA

light-wolff said:


> This makes me curious, where's that info about monitoring battery temperature from?
> 
> 
> I would consider a modern mixed chemistry cell like NCR GA, LG MJ1 or SDI 35E safer than an old tech IMR Li-Ion of a non-disclosed manufacturer with AW wrapper on it.


Whereas I trust AW. To each his own. Anyway the thread is about Zebralight. I prefer the older safer model. That's just me.


----------



## Tixx

Tapis said:


> That is why I'm passing on any new ZL light including this one until I see a real contester to my SC62w. Having a couple of hundred more lumens and an inflated head is not a good enough reason to get rid of an already wonderful light.


Yeah, I hear you. I think the specs keep the head the same diameter. I like the shorter length and lighter weight.


----------



## Tixx

jak said:


> I'd like to pose a question to all the people that say the improvements in this light aren't enough to make the _switch/upgrade from a 62 to a 63_...
> 
> *Would you buy this light it if were priced at $35?
> *
> Because that's kinda how I view this transaction? I don't think it'd be too hard to sell my 62 for $50. So for $35 I will get...
> 
> 
> 
> a brand *new* light
> brighter and longer runtimes (granted, those improvements are minor)
> a design that will be smaller (4mm is relatively substantial)
> easier on pocket egress/ingress *and* wear (smooth body)
> 
> What say you? Is $35 worth it?
> 
> If you insist on protected cells, or are too greatly inconvenienced by selling lights, I guess I'd understand your reasoning for not making the change. But the "not bright enough" or "not enough CRI" improvement are your criteria, does the fact that it's potentially only $35 sway you? Or $45 if you need to buy new cells?


Lighter weight as well.


----------



## snowlover91

light-wolff said:


> This makes me curious, where's that info about monitoring battery temperature from?
> 
> 
> I would consider a modern mixed chemistry cell like NCR GA, LG MJ1 or SDI 35E safer than an old tech IMR Li-Ion of a non-disclosed manufacturer with AW wrapper on it.



Straight off ZL's website about the battery protection circuit. 



Builtin battery discharging protections with continuously monitored temperature, current, and voltage, plus a (2.7V) low voltage cutoff


----------



## jak

Tixx said:


> Lighter weight as well.


While that does make it measurably better* on paper, I can't bring myself to say it's a factor in buying this light. That's just me though. I'd still consider the light an improvement if it weighted .1 oz _more _than the SC62. (Perceiving 200 lumen difference is probably easier than perceiving a tenth of an ounce difference.) 

*I think it's a safe generalization that lighter = better in this tool.


----------



## light-wolff

snowlover91 said:


> Straight off ZL's website about the battery protection circuit.
> 
> 
> 
> Builtin battery discharging protections with continuously monitored temperature, current, and voltage, plus a (2.7V) low voltage cutoff


Thanks. Hadn't seen this yet.
But I bet this refers to the driver board's temperature sensor they use for thermal regulation (PID). The SC600 MK III has the same blurb and there is no sign of a sensor in the battery compartment.


----------



## snowlover91

light-wolff said:


> Thanks. Hadn't seen this yet.
> But I bet this refers to the driver board's temperature sensor they use for thermal regulation (PID). The SC600 MK III has the same blurb and there is no sign of a sensor in the battery compartment.




They have a separate bullet point about the PID so I don't think it's referring to that here. They say "Built in battery protections" and then proceed to list temp, current, and voltage as the 3 things monitored. It would be strange for them to list two things relating to a battery and something relating to PID without any mention of the PID in the sentence itself. This is why I think it indicates the battery protection feature will monitor those 3 things and imo the temp monitoring of the battery will be a nice feature to have if that's the case.


----------



## carl

What do you all think of the picture of the new SC63 on the website?

We were all hoping for knurling but...it has ribs again, or should I say, it only has a rib or two here and there. Are the ribs similar to the old ribs? Yes and no. Instead of ribs along the entire length of the battery tube, this time its just 2 ribs toward the head and another 3 toward the tail and nothing but smooth surface in the main midsection of the battery tube. 

Just one word comes to mind - it looks rather, well, unusual. If they were trying to be different, they nailed it. I wonder what they had in mind with this.... 

I've had smooth lights before and its not the best for grip...

Now that I look at it again, the smooth midsection appears tapered toward the middle so maybe the fingers there are meant to hold it around its 'waist'.


----------



## KeepingItLight

*I'm fine with the looks.*

I won't know until I have tried one, but it may that the main grip comes from your index finger and the heel of your palm. To the extent that is correct, the center ribs are less important for gripping purposes than the ribs at top and bottom.

I'm fine with the looks.


----------



## light-wolff

snowlover91 said:


> They have a separate bullet point about the PID ...


I noticed all that too. But I don't think it's technically possible to monitor battery temperature in ths SC63. The sensor could only be in the head, but there is the LED which is a much bigger heat source than the battery. All you can measure in the head is head temperature, but the battery's contribution to that is negligible.
Maybe they implemented some sort of "battery temperature guesswork" based on head temperature, battery current and time. Sort of modeling the battery temperature. But I don't believe it.


----------



## Fireclaw18

light-wolff said:


> I noticed all that too. But I don't think it's technically possible to monitor battery temperature in ths SC63. The sensor could only be in the head, but there is the LED which is a much bigger heat source than the battery. All you can measure in the head is head temperature, but the battery's contribution to that is negligible.
> Maybe they implemented some sort of "battery temperature guesswork" based on head temperature, battery current and time. Sort of modeling the battery temperature. But I don't believe it.




Agreed.

And why would you really need a battery temperature monitor? A temp sensor in the head to measure LED temp should be sufficient.


----------



## recDNA

Fireclaw18 said:


> Agreed.
> 
> And why would you really need a battery temperature monitor? A temp sensor in the head to measure LED temp should be sufficient.



Battery could short circuit or go into thermal runaway. It does happen even in good batteries albeit rarely, especially at low voltage high amperage. PID lets it burn over 5 amps at 3 volts. Remember no protection circuit to cut it off. Just boom.


----------



## sidecross

recDNA said:


> Battery could short circuit or go into thermal runaway. It does happen even in good batteries albeit rarely, especially at low voltage high amperage. PID lets it burn over 5 amps at 3 volts. Remember no protection circuit to cut it off. Just boom.


I would doubt that Zebralight has not seen this as a potential problem and have addressed it. Also we cannot verify if the posted figures of volts and amps are accurate.

'Product Liability' would leave Zebralight responsible for any 'Just boom.', because they have designed the light for non-protected batteries.

I respect anyone's judgement about being cautious, but not all judgements are equal.


----------



## recDNA

It is not Zebralight's fault if your battery goes bad. That can happen in any light no matter what circuitry it has. I refer you to the pictures in the battery forum. Not all of them are xfire batteries nor poor quality flashlights. It happens. It is an assumed risk with any li ion battery, especially one without a well mad protection circuit but even they go bad sometimes. If you want to run over 4 amps to get an extra 200 lumens for one minute the new series is perfect for you. Especially true if like many users you prefer unprotected batteries anyway.


----------



## sidecross

recDNA said:


> It is not Zebralight's fault if your battery goes bad. That can happen in any light no matter what circuitry it has. I refer you to the pictures in the battery forum. Not all of them are xfire batteries nor poor quality flashlights. It happens. It is an assumed risk with any li ion battery, especially one without a well mad protection circuit but even they go bad sometimes. If you want to run over 4 amps to get an extra 200 lumens for one minute the new series is perfect for you. Especially true if like many users you prefer unprotected batteries anyway.


Running even 4 amps today is not the same as it was even five years ago.

As I posted on another thread the Apple SE30 in 1989 had 4 MB of RAM, and the option of a 40 MB or 80 MB hard drive and cost as high as $6000. The flashlight of 1989 is not the flashlight of 2016.


----------



## snowlover91

light-wolff said:


> I noticed all that too. But I don't think it's technically possible to monitor battery temperature in ths SC63. The sensor could only be in the head, but there is the LED which is a much bigger heat source than the battery. All you can measure in the head is head temperature, but the battery's contribution to that is negligible.
> Maybe they implemented some sort of "battery temperature guesswork" based on head temperature, battery current and time. Sort of modeling the battery temperature. But I don't believe it.



Maybe someone could email them to find out? All I'm saying is that the grammatical structure and info posted on their site indicates it has some type of battery temp monitoring. They could have worded it wrong or just thrown the PID info in there but verbatim it implies what I mentioned. They may have implemented some type of algorithm based on what you mentioned or it could mean it measures the temp of the top of the battery perhaps.


----------



## light-wolff

recDNA said:


> Battery could short circuit or go into thermal runaway. It does happen even in good batteries albeit rarely, especially at low voltage high amperage. PID lets it burn over 5 amps at 3 volts. Remember no protection circuit to cut it off. Just boom.



At 5A a modern battery just gets barely warm. Absolutely no problem.

When a cell shorts or goes into thermal runaway (for whatever reason), no external circuit can do anything.


----------



## sidecross

light-wolff said:


> At 5A a modern battery just gets barely warm. Absolutely no problem.
> 
> When a cell shorts or goes into thermal runaway (for whatever reason), no external circuit can do anything.


'Thermal Runaway Propagation' or 'Thermal Runaway' is a verry rare condition in single cell 18650 lithium ion flashlight batteries and is a more common concern in Tesla electric cars and in the Boeing 787 Dreamliner aircraft as well as bulk transportation of lithium ion batteries.

The risk of it happening in top quality production of known and proven battery manufacturers in 18650 batteries is very rare, but like anything else in science and life it is never free of 'uncertainty'. 

I am as concerned about having a 'Thermal Runaway' in my carefully bought and cared for 18650 batteries as I am concerned about another meteor impact like the one Earth experienced 65 million years ago.


----------



## richardcpf

This is why we need to STOP buying batteries by looking at capacity alone! Low drain, high capacity cells are not suitable for these flashlights anymore. The batteries we should be looking for are high capacity mid-drain: Sanyo GA, LG MJ1 and lower capacity high drains: Samsung 30Q, LG HG2.


----------



## recDNA

light-wolff said:


> At 5A a modern battery just gets barely warm. Absolutely no problem.
> 
> When a cell shorts or goes into thermal runaway (for whatever reason), no external circuit can do anything.


But a protection circuit IN the battery CAN.


----------



## oldeng95

Back to the looks of this zebra, I am loving the size / 3.6 inches . But knurlling would be a plus. 
Is this really the final produce ?


----------



## 18650

recDNA said:


> The only imr battery I trust is aw. It has a button top so won't fit. The new higher capacity aw "imr" battery is a hybrid. Not safe chemistry. Basically the same as any other high draw unprotected battery. I would not hesitate to use the lower capacity aw imr but it will not fit. Regardless of battery type I prefer springs to pegs and would rather keep output to 3 amps max. Why take even the slightest additional risk to get maybe 200 extra lumens for a minute or two before pid knocks it down?


 Nothing really stops you from using IMR cells for loads under 3A. AW has to get their batteries from somewhere because they don't make their own and I don't see what's wrong with buying the same cell unbranded or with a rewrapper's name on it (Keeppower and others.)


----------



## MarkF786

recDNA said:


> But a protection circuit IN the battery CAN.



How? I didn't think battery protection circuits typically had any type of temperature sensor.


----------



## lampeDépêche

Something I don't understand: how can Pogo pins help to reduce the length of this light?

I have looked at google-image pics of Pogo pins, and given how they are constructed, it looks to me like they can never take up as little room as a spiral helical spring.

Which means, I guess, that ZL has some tricks up its sleeve that I don't understand yet.

We'll all know more after the lights come out at the end of the month. But if anyone can show me Pogo pins that are as low-profile as a spiral helix when it has been flattened into a spiral of wire, I'll be very interested to see them.


----------



## recDNA

MarkF786 said:


> How? I didn't think battery protection circuits typically had any type of temperature sensor.


A short will trip pcb due to high current but quality protection circuits do also have heat protection.


----------



## sidecross

recDNA said:


> A short will trip pcb due to high current but quality protection circuits do also have heat protection.


Is there a way for someone to check if a 'protection circuit' is functional or is it just that having a 'protection circuit' is a main difference between the two types of batteries?


----------



## uofaengr

Just curious, why is 3 amps considered the limit of being "safe"? Are there any facts to support this or is it a feel-good thing?


----------



## ateupwithgolf

oldeng95 said:


> Back to the looks of this zebra, I am loving the size / 3.6 inches . But knurlling would be a plus.
> Is this really the final produce ?



I would imagine that if they are sending out the newsletter advertising sale on this, that this is the final product.


----------



## GunnarGG

recDNA said:


> But a protection circuit IN the battery CAN.



I have been thinking a little bit about protected cells and "internal shorts" that I have seen mentioned.

If there is a short in a flashlight but "outside" of the battery, like putting a cable from plus to minus, then a cell would put out as many amps that it can and will get hot and maybe finally catch fire. A protection circuit will in this case cut of the circuit in the cell, between one of the poles and the rest of the cell ( because of high current or temp) and prevent a disaster.

If there on the other hand is an "internal short" in the cell it sound to me like it's something happening in the cell, in the chemistry itself.
If the protection circuit then tripped it would shut of the current coming out of the battery and the flashlight would shut off.
Whatever process going on inside the cell itself wouldn't terminate by that but instead continue and it could still end in disaster.

Is that correct thoughts or have I got it wrong?

If it is correct I'll guess the SC63 can give about the same protection that the cell protection can give and the protection that the flashlight can't give the cell itself can't either.
During charging we are depending on a safe charger instead of course.


About the look of the SC63 I think I'm starting to like it.
When the SC52 and SC62 came out I was a little sceptical about the ribbing.
Once I got those lights I really liked the ergonomics and I think the ribs on the SC63 are where they add to the grip and that it will feel nice in the hand.


----------



## jak

lampeDépêche said:


> Something I don't understand: how can Pogo pins help to reduce the length of this light?
> 
> I have looked at google-image pics of Pogo pins, and given how they are constructed, it looks to me like they can never take up as little room as a spiral helical spring.
> 
> Which means, I guess, that ZL has some tricks up its sleeve that I don't understand yet.
> 
> We'll all know more after the lights come out at the end of the month. But if anyone can show me Pogo pins that are as low-profile as a spiral helix when it has been flattened into a spiral of wire, I'll be very interested to see them.


So the SC5 (among others) has pogo pins. They're pretty small/short. Even in their extended state I would venture a guess they're almost shorter than a spring when it's compressed -Keep in mind, a spring doesn't compress to being flat in most applications, though technically it could. (This is my theory anyway.)


----------



## lampeDépêche

jak, thanks for that picture of the SC5 tailcap. That gives me a much better sense of the size of the Pogo pins involved.

I have just been squishing the spring in my H600w MII tailcap, to see how flat it gets. Pretty darn flat! Which is a good thing, because I have been using one of those darned over-sized Nitecore 3400 mah cells, that is a nominal 18650 but is really more like 69mm long. (If I'd known it was so long, I would not have bought it). The spring compresses until it is pretty much all in the same plane, except for the innermost wrap of wire. So it is two wire-diameters tall. The pins in that photo don't look much more than that.

Seeing the SC5, I guess now I can see how Pogo pins might take up as little space as a helical spring. I would not like them in an AA-format light (this doesn't matter for the SC63) because they would make it harder to use a AAA when needed. One of the many great things about the SC52 and H52 is that you can run them on an AAA (or 14400) *without any modification at all.* No need for a spacer. Not even a ball of tin foil in the bottom. Just drop them in, and the tailcap spring extends far enough to make contact. (Sure, you can also break the contact by shaking it around violently, but if you let it sit still, you get light). With the SC5 it looks like you'd need at least a little bit of a conducting spacer to run an AAA in it.

But again, that's not directly relevant to this thread.


----------



## fnsooner

I got an email last night from ZebraLight advertising the SC63(w). The most notable thing for me is that it still has the shipping date of January 31, 2016. Less than two weeks. I bet that is shipping from China though. Us Americans will probably have to wait another week or so before things are shipped to us individually. Woo Hoo.


----------



## MarkF786

After spending a few days with my SC5w, I can see why Zebralight might have ditched the knurling on the SC63. It's so darn hard to clip the SC5w to my pocket with the knurling biting into the fabric. After trying it a few times, I gave up because it would probably tear up my jeans after a few times of use.


----------



## tops2

MarkF786 said:


> After spending a few days with my SC5w, I can see why Zebralight might have ditched the knurling on the SC63. It's so darn hard to clip the SC5w to my pocket with the knurling biting into the fabric. After trying it a few times, I gave up because it would probably tear up my jeans after a few times of use.



Lol.. The SC5w clip is so tight.. Makes it such a chore to put on and off.

I did buy an aftermarket clip and had to bend it a bit to fit the SC5w better but it's much easier to put in and off, even one handed.

The drawback is its looser now so I now I worry about the light falling out from time to time..


----------



## Fireclaw18

MarkF786 said:


> After spending a few days with my SC5w, I can see why Zebralight might have ditched the knurling on the SC63. It's so darn hard to clip the SC5w to my pocket with the knurling biting into the fabric. After trying it a few times, I gave up because it would probably tear up my jeans after a few times of use.



There is a simple solution to that: Apply knurling on the body tube of the flashlight, but leave a strip right under and around the clip that has no knurling. That way you get a clip that easily slips on and off without wrecking your clothing while also having all the advantages of knurling when it comes to grip.


----------



## MarkF786

What clip did you buy? The Zebralight clip is stiff as heck!



tops2 said:


> Lol.. The SC5w clip is so tight.. Makes it such a chore to put on and off.
> 
> I did buy an aftermarket clip and had to bend it a bit to fit the SC5w better but it's much easier to put in and off, even one handed.
> 
> The drawback is its looser now so I now I worry about the light falling out from time to time..


----------



## lampeDépêche

Another thought on Pogo pins vs. springs: I'm sure that the Pogo pins will allow for greater current with less resistance.

When Vinh Nguyen hotrods lights, he very often will cut the tail-cap spring out of the loop by soldering in a jumper from the tip of the spring to the base the spring is mounted on. This lets him raise the amperage, and not worry about either resistance or melting (or de-tempering) the spring.

So the ZL people may be coaxing a few more lumens out of the SC63 just be switching from springs to pins. And they are avoiding any doubts about whether the spring can handle the increased amperage.

For those reasons, it seems like a good move.


----------



## sidecross

lampeDépêche said:


> Another thought on Pogo pins vs. springs: I'm sure that the Pogo pins will allow for greater current with less resistance.
> 
> When Vinh Nguyen hotrods lights, he very often will cut the tail-cap spring out of the loop by soldering in a jumper from the tip of the spring to the base the spring is mounted on. This lets him raise the amperage, and not worry about either resistance or melting (or de-tempering) the spring.
> 
> So the ZL people may be coaxing a few more lumens out of the SC63 just be switching from springs to pins. And they are avoiding any doubts about whether the spring can handle the increased amperage.
> 
> For those reasons, it seems like a good move.


I agree the newer Zebralights are being designed foremost for the reduction in size with the bonus of higher output from standard high quality flat-top 18650 battery.

Even though these lights can deliver higher output, their smaller size does not make this advantage a primary reason for this design. The small size can not handle the heat generated for prolong hand held use.

The argument between standard flat top and protected button top batteries for people with a good understanding of current lithium ion battery advancements is no longer the same concern as just a few years back. In fact the growth in size of the newer protected batteries are creating their own problems with batteries that are longer in length and wider than the standard 18650 batteries.

People who are blaming Zebralights for non fitting batteries should be arguing for more standard requirements for designating battery size by the battery manufacturers.


----------



## KeepingItLight

sidecross said:


> I agree the newer Zebralights are being designed foremost for the reduction in size with the bonus of higher output from standard high quality flat-top 18650 battery.



My take on this is just the opposite. First and foremost, I see the new 12-volt driver as the motivating factor. According to reports, it will be pulling between 4 and 5 amps, with the highest draws occurring as the battery gets low. A change to unprotected, medium-draw batteries, such as the Sanyo NCR18560GA or the Samsung 30Q, assures that there won't be a problem supplying current. 

The pogo pins have reduced electrical resistance compared to a spring. This means less voltage is wasted pushing current through the springs, and more voltage is available for the driver. That's what the designers wanted, more voltage for the driver. 

Note that pogo pins cannot be compressed as much as a spring. Switching to them means that battery size must be more uniform. Unprotected batteries provide this uniformity. Thus we have a second factor motivating a change to unprotected batteries.

Now consider the protection circuits themselves. I am not an expert, but my understanding is that they consume perhaps as much as a tenth of a volt. That's not much, but any voltage not used running protection circuits in the battery can be made available to the driver. Since ZL was planning to build protection circuits into the driver, including them on the battery is, at some level, redundant. This is a third motivation suggesting a switch to unprotected batteries.

Once designers understood that these changes would be better for the driver, then they realized the flashlight size could also be made smaller. 

All of this is pure speculation on my part, but I think it makes more sense than the alternative. Tossing out protected batteries has cost ZebraLight sales. Just read this thread to hear from previous customers who won't be coming back to buy this one. It does not make sense that ZebraLight would alienate these customers just to save a few millimeters. 

If, as you say, size were the foremost motivation for the changes, I think ZebraLight would have found a way to allow protected batteries. If, on the other hand, driver design were already leading ZL in the direction of unprotected batteries and pogo pins, then the changes become more understandable.


----------



## snowlover91

Although it may have caused a few on here not to buy the batteries it seems like the market they sell to has embraced the change quite well. According to what they said in one of my emails with them the MK3 has been selling like hot cakes and they're having a hard time keeping up production capacity with the high demand. This is why they said the SC63 was initially planned to ship early January and later changed to late January as well, they needed to dedicate more of their production to the MK3. Overall it would seem a select few on here have decided not to invest in one of their newer lights but their target market as a whole seems to have no issue with it whatsoever. 

For me personally I have no issues with unprotected cells and am actually in the process of replacing most of my protected batteries with regular flat tops. The only light I have that I can't do that with is my Nitecore but I'll probably get an unprotected button top. If typical safety measure are taken (good charger that doesn't overcharge, light with protection like ZL, etc) then I don't have any issues with unprotected 18650. The chances of an internal short happening are about the same as me getting struck by lightning. Sure it could happen but that doesn't keep locked inside my house every time a storm is within 10-20 miles. I can see the need for protected batteries years ago but with advances in battery tech it's no longer needed with good quality cells imo.


----------



## sidecross

KeepingItLight said:


> My take on this is just the opposite. First and foremost, I see the new 12-volt driver as the motivating factor. According to reports, it will be pulling between 4 and 5 amps, with the highest draws occurring as the battery gets low. A change to unprotected, medium-draw batteries, such as the Sanyo NCR18560GA or the Samsung 30Q, assures that there won't be a problem supplying current.
> 
> The pogo pins have reduced electrical resistance compared to a spring. This means less voltage is wasted pushing current through the springs, and more voltage is available for the driver. That's what designers wanted, more voltage for the driver.
> 
> Note that pogo pins cannot be compressed as much as a spring. Switching to them means that battery size must be more uniform. Unprotected batteries provide this uniformity. Thus we have a second factor motivating a change to unprotected batteries.
> 
> Once designers understood that these changes would be better for the driver, then they realized the flashlight size could also be made smaller.
> 
> All this is pure speculation on my part, but I think it makes more sense than the alternative. Tossing out protected batteries has cost ZebraLight sales. Just read this thread to hear from previous customers who won't be coming back to buy this one. It does not make sense that ZebraLight would alienate these customers just to save a few millimeters.
> 
> If, as you say, size were the foremost motivation for the changes, I think ZebraLight would have found a way to allow protected batteries. If, on the other hand, driver design were already leading ZL in the direction of unprotected batteries and pogo pins, then the changes become more understandable.


I am in agreement with most of what you have written I only differ in the choice of a 18650 instead of a 26650 and a larger head to dissipate the heat from the newer and more efficient LED's.

I agree too that the batteries you highlighted are among the best 18650 batteries currently in production.

I would only hope someone will do what Zebralight has done for the 18650 platform and move it up to a compact and efficient 26650 model.

I think with the newer technology available today single battery lights can perform as well if not better as multi cell batteries just 5 years ago.


----------



## KeepingItLight

I, too, would like to see what ZebraLight can do with a 26650.

I am eager to learn myself. I just reserved my place in the group buy for *CPFItalia Cometa* flashlight. It is a custom design using the *JAX Z1* host. It will be my first 26650 flashlight.


----------



## Lumencrazy

snowlover91 said:


> Although it may have caused a few on here not to buy the batteries it seems like the market they sell to has embraced the change quite well. According to what they said in one of my emails with them the MK3 has been selling like hot cakes and they're having a hard time keeping up production capacity with the high demand. This is why they said the SC63 was initially planned to ship early January and later changed to late January as well, they needed to dedicate more of their production to the MK3. Overall it would seem a select few on here have decided not to invest in one of their newer lights but their target market as a whole seems to have no issue with it whatsoever.
> 
> 
> 
> For me personally I have no issues with unprotected cells and am actually in the process of replacing most of my protected batteries with regular flat tops. The only light I have that I can't do that with is my Nitecore but I'll probably get an unprotected button top. If typical safety measure are taken (good charger that doesn't overcharge, light with protection like ZL, etc) then I don't have any issues with unprotected 18650. The chances of an internal short happening are about the same as me getting struck by lightning. Sure it could happen but that doesn't keep locked inside my house every time a storm is within 10-20 miles. I can see the need for protected batteries years ago but with advances in battery tech it's no longer needed with good quality cells imo.


 
*
An external protection circuit will not help at all if there is an internal short in the battery. *


----------



## Fireclaw18

Lumencrazy said:


> *
> An external protection circuit will not help at all if there is an internal short in the battery. *




True. But how often does that happen with a quality cell from a reputable seller?


----------



## Lumencrazy

In 2013 2.5 billion 18650 cells were produced. the failure rate (of the batteries themselves) is very very small. Zebralight has a protection circuit (to control the demands placed on the battery) built into the driver. All these discussions are based more on uninformed personal opinions rather than sound engineering facts. Furthermore, like it or not Zebralight is sold out of their new lights designed for unprotected batteries. You can’t please everyone, nor should you try or you would never be able to get a single product out the door. If it’s not your cup of tea look elsewhere. The great thing is we live in a country of free choice and that also applies to the manufacturers.


----------



## emarkd

What everyone seems to me missing is that the protection circuit is external even on* batteries *with built in protection. It's just tacked on to one terminal end of the cell and wrapped in longer plastic.


----------



## sidecross

emarkd said:


> What everyone seems to me missing is that the protection circuit is external even on lights with built in protection. It's just tacked on to one terminal end of the cell and wrapped in longer plastic.


Without an easy and practical way to test this external circuit it is a leap of faith that it will work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pq0OQqiOek&list=PL1t6JkcqG9NkaqDf0TxcfyBgSCxQExoTS&index=109


----------



## emarkd

Batteries... I meant batteries in my comment above. Protection circuits on batteries are external to the battery as well. Sure it can cut the power to the negative terminal a bit closer to the "source", but what's the chances that your failure point is somewhere between that terminal and the driver? Slim I'd say. So yes I have no problem trusting a protection circuit in the light as much as a circuit that's been tacked onto a battery. In fact I kinda like it better because there's no strip of metal running down the side of the cell under that wrapper, just waiting to short out, like this:






Please don't take that to mean I don't trust protected cells. I'm just saying there's no "magic" solution to make these high-powered cells 100% safe and a protection circuit built into the light is just as good as one built into the battery.


----------



## Glock27

The above photo illustrates the danger of protected cells. The Positive strip is insulated by a thin insulator on both sides. I only use protected cells in multi-cell lights.

G27


----------



## Tachead

One thing to consider though is the added level of safety through redundancy. Should something go wrong with the lights protection circuits when using the light or the chargers when charging, the protection on the cell will still protect it from over/under charge/discharge exc. Some people like that extra level of safety. Also, consider that some people who have already invested in protected cells for other lights, without the sophisticated protection Zebralights have, might not want to buy new cells just for one light. I personally think Zebralight shouldnt have limited cell compatibility so severely. Especially since the way they did it allows cell movement and possibly long term reliability.


----------



## sidecross

This not an issue of an absolute but of a probability. It is not to be thought of right or wrong, but rather just an understanding of the variables that go to make an informed decision.

It is of interest to discuss the decisions each of us might make, but it is not an issue of a certainty of what is the absolute safest choice.


----------



## sidecross

Tachead said:


> One thing to consider though is the added level of safety through redundancy. Should something go wrong with the lights protection circuits when using the light or the chargers when charging, the protection on the cell will still protect it from over/under charge/discharge exc. Some people like that extra level of safety. Also, consider that some people who have already invested in protected cells for other lights, without the sophisticated protection Zebralights have, might not want to buy new cells just for one light. I personally think Zebralight shouldnt have limited cell compatibility so severely. Especially since the way they did it allows cell movement and possibly long term reliability.


I would agree with your point if Zebralight made a proprietary battery necessary, but they made the most standard 18650 battery in production with known specifications of quality.

Anyone who would be willing to pay the cost of a new flashlight based on its reduced size and better capability, but is put off by the much smaller cost of quality standard flat-top batteries does not, for me, make a good argument against the production of this new flashlight.


----------



## Tachead

sidecross said:


> I would agree with your point if Zebralight made a proprietary battery necessary, but they made the most standard 18650 battery in production with known specifications of quality.
> 
> Anyone who would be willing to pay the cost of a new flashlight based on its reduced size and better capability, but is put off by the much smaller cost of quality standard flat-top batteries does not, for me, make a good argument against the production of this new flashlight.



Its not just about cost for everyone though. Many of the people who buy and use rechargeable products do it in part to be eco-friendly. If you already have enough cells for your needs then buying more just to fit this light could be seen as wasteful. Zebralight is forcing you to do this if you want this light and dont have a specific type/size of cell. I for one have no 65mm cells and I am sure many others dont as well. Bare cells of are much harder to find and purchase, especially here in Canada. And, some bare cells arent even exactly 65mm so, it makes it even harder.


----------



## Nuppet

^Before Christmas I bought my first 18650 cells, as well as a charger, in anticipation of buying either the SC6000 III or the upcoming SC63. I must admit that I'm a bit apprehensive but the new ZL have protections in place, and the charger (XTAR VC4) is good.


----------



## snowlover91

Lumencrazy said:


> *
> An external protection circuit will not help at all if there is an internal short in the battery. *



Exactly which is why I no longer use protected batteries except my Nitecore lights that require them. I would much rather have a good quality protection circuit built into the light than to have one on the battery that increases the length of the battery and imo doesn't really make it safer. Practicing good/safe charging and discharging habits eliminates the need for protection circuits imo. Only a few more weeks until shipping begins, hopefully.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

Send an email to ZL asking about shipping on the SC63w I have ordered. Here is their response.



Subject: shipping for sc63w

It's a starting shipping date, from China. We'll start to ship U.S. orders about 10 days after that. New orders received will be filled at a later date.

Sincerely,

ZebraLight, Inc.
2908 Story Rd. W
Irving, TX 75038


----------



## tops2

MarkF786 said:


> What clip did you buy? The Zebralight clip is stiff as heck!



As recommended by CPF member snowlover91:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?401561-Zebralight-Pocket-Clip-Fix

Direct link to the one I ordered:
http://www.banggood.com/Titanium-Alloy-LED-Flashlight-Clip-For-Nitecore-Jetbeam-Niteye-p-89414.html

FYI, there's only the short version. So if you look at the pics from snowlover91, where the "o" in the clip is in his picture...on my short version, that same "o" is where the head and body meets. I had to bend the clip down towards to body to make contact, but I bent it enough that it provides pretty good contact and easy for me to clip with one hand.



Anyways..sorry for the divergent in topic. Just wanted to post this in case someone else is interested.

Back to discussion about SC63... I'm debating this light too, but am also debating about getting a new cell just for this light too. Its mainly cause I got my first (pair) of 18650 protected light & cells this Christmas, and feels like a "waste" to just not use it and get the new SC600w MKIII or SC63w. While I am getting more comfortable with lithium ion batteries, I still don't really want to have too many unused 18650 cells at home..especially with a toddler at home. But I can tell one of these 2 lights will make me just forget my other lights. But since the lights aren't widely available yet, there's still time to decide! ;-)


----------



## sidecross

Tachead said:


> Its not just about cost for everyone though. Many of the people who buy and use rechargeable products do it in part to be eco-friendly. If you already have enough cells for your needs then buying more just to fit this light could be seen as wasteful. Zebralight is forcing you to do this if you want this light and dont have a specific type/size of cell. I for one have no 65mm cells and I am sure many others dont as well. Bare cells of are much harder to find and purchase, especially here in Canada. And, some bare cells arent even exactly 65mm so, it makes it even harder.


That is an excellent point and I am very glad you made your comment. :thumbsup:


----------



## sidecross

ateupwithgolf said:


> Send an email to ZL asking about shipping on the SC63w I have ordered. Here is their response.
> 
> 
> 
> Subject: shipping for sc63w
> 
> It's a starting shipping date, from China. We'll start to ship U.S. orders about 10 days after that. New orders received will be filled at a later date.
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> ZebraLight, Inc.
> 2908 Story Rd. W
> Irving, TX 75038


Chinese New Year is Monday, February 8 and we should expect some delay for any product coming from China.


----------



## markr6

MarkF786 said:


> After spending a few days with my SC5w, I can see why Zebralight might have ditched the knurling on the SC63. It's so darn hard to clip the SC5w to my pocket with the knurling biting into the fabric. After trying it a few times, I gave up because it would probably tear up my jeans after a few times of use.



It would have been nice if they just adopted the design from the SC52, which has a smooth, flat area for the clip to rest.


----------



## light-wolff

sidecross said:


> 'I am as concerned about having a 'Thermal Runaway' in my carefully bought and cared for 18650 batteries as I am concerned about another meteor impact like the one Earth experienced 65 million years ago.


+1 



richardcpf said:


> This is why we need to STOP buying batteries by looking at capacity alone! Low drain, high capacity cells are not suitable for these flashlights anymore. The batteries we should be looking for are high capacity mid-drain: Sanyo GA, LG MJ1


Good thing is: these are even the highest capacity cells currently available. So there is no such thing as high-capacity low-drain cell any more. 



recDNA said:


> But a protection circuit IN the battery CAN.


No protection circuit can do anything about an cell-internal short. And there is no Li-Ion cell with integrated protection circuit.

BTW: this thread is running in circles.



lampeDépêche said:


> Something I don't understand: how can Pogo pins help to reduce the length of this light?


They can't.
An SC62 or SC600 MK II tailcap with spring also fits on the SC600 MK III AND gives more reliable contact with less resistance (which translates to longer runtime) AND eliminates battery rattle, AND doesn't increase the length.
I see only advantages, thus will replace the pogo pins in my MK III with a conventional spring.



recDNA said:


> A short will trip pcb due to high current but quality protection circuits do also have heat protection.


I've never seen or heard of a single cell PCB with temperature cutoff. Do you have a link to one that has? Or to a protection IC that has this ability? I'd like to use it to modify some protected batteries.


----------



## sidecross

light-wolff said:


> An SC62 or SC600 MK II tailcap with spring also fits on the SC600 MK III AND gives more reliable contact with less resistance (which translates to longer runtime) AND eliminates battery rattle, AND doesn't increase the length.
> I see only advantages, thus will replace the pogo pins in my MK III with a conventional spring.


This is puzzling: changing over to the 'pogo pins' does not lower resistance while not improving battery security as did the previous spring design.

I would welcome more comments on this issue.


----------



## recDNA

light-wolff said:


> +1
> 
> 
> Good thing is: these are even the highest capacity cells currently available. So there is no such thing as high-capacity low-drain cell any more.
> 
> 
> No protection circuit can do anything about an cell-internal short. And there is no Li-Ion cell with integrated protection circuit.
> 
> BTW: this thread is running in circles.
> 
> 
> They can't.
> An SC62 or SC600 MK II tailcap with spring also fits on the SC600 MK III AND gives more reliable contact with less resistance (which translates to longer runtime) AND eliminates battery rattle, AND doesn't increase the length.
> I see only advantages, thus will replace the pogo pins in my MK III with a conventional spring.
> 
> 
> I've never seen or heard of a single cell PCB with temperature cutoff. Do you have a link to one that has? Or to a protection IC that has this ability? I'd like to use it to modify some protected batteries.


From the AW battery thread in dealers section of this forum
Built with these LiNiCoO2 NNP cells.

- Three triangulated raised dots ensure solid cell to cell connection when used in series.

- PCB protection against overcharge/ over discharge / short circuit.

- Safety vent with thermal cut off protection.

- Heat Resistance Layer (HRL) technology that forms an insulating metal oxide layer between the positive and negative electrodes. The layer prevents the battery from overheating even if a short circuit occurs.

- Featuring a new polyimide insulated ultra thin (0.09mm) pcb connecting flexi strip that is heat resistant to 500F (instead of a bare metal strip). This new polyimide insulated flexi strip will protect the battery from a direct short in case the outer plastic wrapper of the battery is torn / damage. The new design also makes these 3100 the slimmest protected 18650-3100 available.


----------



## sidecross

recDNA said:


> From the AW battery thread in dealers section of this forum
> Built with these LiNiCoO2 NNP cells.
> 
> - Three triangulated raised dots ensure solid cell to cell connection when used in series.
> 
> - PCB protection against overcharge/ over discharge / short circuit.
> 
> - Safety vent with thermal cut off protection.
> 
> - Heat Resistance Layer (HRL) technology that forms an insulating metal oxide layer between the positive and negative electrodes. The layer prevents the battery from overheating even if a short circuit occurs.
> 
> - Featuring a new polyimide insulated ultra thin (0.09mm) pcb connecting flexi strip that is heat resistant to 500F (instead of a bare metal strip). This new polyimide insulated flexi strip will protect the battery from a direct short in case the outer plastic wrapper of the battery is torn / damage. The new design also makes these 3100 the slimmest protected 18650-3100 available.


This is a very good description of how AW has deisgned their battery, but again I must point out there is no easy way to check that this design is working.

For the Zebralight for example after a certain amount of use you can remove the battery take a voltage reading and see if if the function of showing battery voltage by doing four rapid clicks to see if between 1 and 4 flashes occur. As the voltage drops too, the highest and brightest setting should be dropping to a medium setting to also check if the Zebralight's safety design is functional.

I know of no way to test a protected battery if it is working without elaborate technical skills and instruments. If I am wrong about this, please elaborate on how I may be corrected in my thinking.


----------



## psychbeat

Ugh this uninformed battery talk is killing me.... Can't we have another thread on it?
AW "I think" is describing the vent that is in the raw Panasonic cell not adding a his own vent. 
Therefore the thermal vent has NOTHING to do with the added aftermarket PCB. 

I'd like to see the evidence that the older IMR cells are somehow safer than current cells - sounds like more superstition to me. 

Can't wait to see what these look like in real pics rather than what I'm assuming is a digital mockup?


----------



## sidecross

psychbeat said:


> Ugh this uninformed battery talk is killing me.... Can't we have another thread on it?
> AW "I think" is describing the vent that is in the raw Panasonic cell not adding a his own vent.
> Therefore the thermal vent has NOTHING to do with the added aftermarket PCB.
> 
> I'd like to see the evidence that the older IMR cells are somehow safer than current cells - sounds like more superstition to me.
> 
> Can't wait to see what these look like in real pics rather than what I'm assuming is a digital mockup?


I will refrain from making anymore comments concerning this exact topic.


----------



## Tachead

psychbeat said:


> Ugh this uninformed battery talk is killing me.... Can't we have another thread on it?
> AW "I think" is describing the vent that is in the raw Panasonic cell not adding a his own vent.
> Therefore the thermal vent has NOTHING to do with the added aftermarket PCB.
> 
> I'd like to see the evidence that the older IMR cells are somehow safer than current cells - sounds like more superstition to me.
> 
> Can't wait to see what these look like in real pics rather than what I'm assuming is a digital mockup?



There probably would be little to no battery talk in this thread if Zebralight would have just allowed more cell compatibility with these lights:thinking:


----------



## recDNA

psychbeat said:


> Ugh this uninformed battery talk is killing me.... Can't we have another thread on it?
> AW "I think" is describing the vent that is in the raw Panasonic cell not adding a his own vent.
> Therefore the thermal vent has NOTHING to do with the added aftermarket PCB.
> 
> I'd like to see the evidence that the older IMR cells are somehow safer than current cells - sounds like more superstition to me.
> 
> Can't wait to see what these look like in real pics rather than what I'm assuming is a digital mockup?


The heat resistance layer is not a vent. The vent comes on the unprotected version as well. I only replied because someone said there is no internal heat protection in protected battery. AW has one.


----------



## gunga

I'm sorry. We've spent pages discussing the battery "issue" and are going in circles. Some people are fine with unprotected cells, some not. Everyone has their own valid preferences. Can we stop with the battery sniping and just talk about the light that this thread is about? If you read a thread about a car, you don't want to spend the entire time reading about gas. Let's get back on topic!


----------



## light-wolff

psychbeat said:


> Ugh this *uninformed *battery talk is killing me...


+1000
Some people don't even read what they respond to. Drives me crazy. I surrender.


----------



## KITROBASKIN

People here are talking like no other flashlight manufacturer makes lights with limitations on 18650 configurations. Really?

It's a good thing that ZebraLight has heard this kind of clucking before (shape, size, ribs, color, matching anodizing, on and on) and takes it all in stride, and keeps selling great lights.



Tachead said:


> There probably would be little to no battery talk in this thread if Zebralight would have just allowed more cell compatibility with these lights:thinking:


----------



## markr6

So, let's move on and just accept the fact unprotected 18650s will blow your face off and burn your house down. Protected 18650s will only blow half your face off and burn half your house down.

In the meantime, I'm looking forward to using my SC63w with unprotected cells, just like a dozen other everyday products I have with unprotected cells and protection built into the hardware (cell phone, dust buster, external power supplies, laptop, etc.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

gunga said:


> I'm sorry. We've spent pages discussing the battery "issue" and are going in circles. Some people are fine with unprotected cells, some not. Everyone has their own valid preferences. Can we stop with the battery sniping and just talk about the light that this thread is about? If you read a thread about a car, you don't want to spend the entire time reading about gas. Let's get back on topic!




+1000, rename the title to say "the unprotected cell only sc63"


----------



## nbp

gunga said:


> I'm sorry. We've spent pages discussing the battery "issue" and are going in circles. Some people are fine with unprotected cells, some not. Everyone has their own valid preferences. Can we stop with the battery sniping and just talk about the light that this thread is about? If you read a thread about a car, you don't want to spend the entire time reading about gas. Let's get back on topic!




^^^ This. Keep on topic please, guys. Discuss the features of the light, not the safety of unprotected cells. There is a whole subforum for the discussion of batteries, which is where much of this thread's commentary belongs.


----------



## Tachead

Its not just unprotected cells guys, its the fact that it only takes exactly 65mm cells. I know of no other flashlight, or any other average battery powered device for that matter(aside from proprietary), that is so limited in its cell compatibility. It might as well be a proprietary battery like Sonys old rectangular AA. Plus, it has such tight tolerances that I question the long term connection reliability. The fact that the pressure on the contacts is so low that the battery rattles, unlike a spring contact, when it is brand new is a concern to me at least. I could see these models having connection/flickering issues down the road. Even if they hold up, I just dont think it was a wise decision on Zebralight's part. Just the strong opposition in this thread alone proves that. Any design that a large part of your customer base is strongly apposed to is a bad business decision imo. I know ZL likes to be different, hell many are apposed to their goofy looking ribbed designs too but, I think this different. I for one hope they stick with their usual design(SC62, SC600, H600 exc.) or a better and more compatible one going forward.


----------



## sidecross

Tachead said:


> Its not just unprotected cells guys, its the fact that it only takes exactly 65mm cells. I know of no other flashlight, or any other average battery powered device for that matter(aside from proprietary), that is so limited in its cell compatibility. It might as well be a proprietary battery like Sonys old rectangular AA.



Deleted


----------



## Tachead

sidecross said:


> All my other 18650 lights work with a 18650 65mm flat top battery; your statement is in error and his the only reason for my comment.



Yeah mine too lol. Its the fact that it will only work with a 65mm cell. My others work with various cells of various lengths, protected and bare. Some need a raised positive however.


----------



## snowlover91

Tachead said:


> Its not just unprotected cells guys, its the fact that it only takes exactly 65mm cells. I know of no other flashlight, or any other average battery powered device for that matter(aside from proprietary), that is so limited in its cell compatibility. It might as well be a proprietary battery like Sonys old rectangular AA. Plus, it has such tight tolerances that I question the long term connection reliability. The fact that the pressure on the contacts is so low that the battery rattles, unlike a spring contact, when it is brand new is a concern to me at least. I could see these models having connection/flickering issues down the road. Even if they hold up, I just dont think it was a wise decision on Zebralight's part. *Just the strong opposition in this thread alone proves that. Any design that a large part of your customer base is strongly apposed to is a bad business decision imo.* I know ZL likes to be different, hell many are apposed to their goofy looking ribbed designs too but, I think this different. I for one hope they stick with their usual design(SC62, SC600, H600 exc.) or a better and more compatible one going forward.



The thing is their customer base apparently has no issues whatsoever with this design. The MK3 has the same "limitations" yet sold out all the preorders quickly and they're having a hard time keeping up the demand. Part of the reason the SC63 isn't scheduled to ship until January 31 is due to the high demand, they originally planned to introduce preorders around the same time as the MK3 and ship early January. The email correspondence I received indicates they had to delay things slightly due to this high demand. A few members on here unsatisfied with the unprotected cell limitation is definitely not a majority of their customer base. My Nitecore lights are limited to using protected batteries but that doesn't make them any less a great light. 

Personally I like the pogo pin design they have incorporated. It's one of my favorite features of the SC5w and SC5fd lights. The "battery rattle" issue experienced by some will probably be fixed in the SC63 and later production of the MK3 also. My SC62w does rattle when I use unprotected cells and if I shake it quite hard but that doesn't bother me at all. The future potential of the SC63 is bright with options for 90+ CRI down the road, something ZL is contemplating and may produce later this year. I for one would be ecstatic to buy a 90+ CRI light capable of 900+ lumens in a small SC63 size package.


----------



## scs

snowlover91 said:


> The thing is their customer base apparently has no issues whatsoever with this design. The MK3 has the same "limitations" yet sold out all the preorders quickly and they're having a hard time keeping up the demand. Part of the reason the SC63 isn't scheduled to ship until January 31 is due to the high demand, they originally planned to introduce preorders around the same time as the MK3 and ship early January. The email correspondence I received indicates they had to delay things slightly due to this high demand. A few members on here unsatisfied with the unprotected cell limitation is definitely not a majority of their customer base. My Nitecore lights are limited to using protected batteries but that doesn't make them any less a great light.
> 
> Personally I like the pogo pin design they have incorporated. It's one of my favorite features of the SC5w and SC5fd lights. The "battery rattle" issue experienced by some will probably be fixed in the SC63 and later production of the MK3 also. My SC62w does rattle when I use unprotected cells and if I shake it quite hard but that doesn't bother me at all. The future potential of the SC63 is bright with options for 90+ CRI down the road, something ZL is contemplating and may produce later this year. I for one would be ecstatic to buy a 90+ CRI light capable of 900+ lumens in a small SC63 size package.



While the general response _here _has been positive, Tachead has brought up some potentially valid points. Only time will tell.
Some people buy things without first considering every potential shortcoming, some of which will be consequential and some will turn out not to be. Therefore, just because something seems popular during the initial release phase, it doesn't mean it's all good.
And who knows how many ZL expected and planned and how many were actually ordered? Perhaps it sold out early only because ZL's first batch was really small to begin with, just so they can test the water, get some initial feedback and perhaps revise their design.


----------



## Tachead

snowlover91 said:


> The thing is their customer base apparently has no issues whatsoever with this design. The MK3 has the same "limitations" yet sold out all the preorders quickly and they're having a hard time keeping up the demand. Part of the reason the SC63 isn't scheduled to ship until January 31 is due to the high demand, they originally planned to introduce preorders around the same time as the MK3 and ship early January. The email correspondence I received indicates they had to delay things slightly due to this high demand. A few members on here unsatisfied with the unprotected cell limitation is definitely not a majority of their customer base. My Nitecore lights are limited to using protected batteries but that doesn't make them any less a great light.
> 
> Personally I like the pogo pin design they have incorporated. It's one of my favorite features of the SC5w and SC5fd lights. The "battery rattle" issue experienced by some will probably be fixed in the SC63 and later production of the MK3 also. My SC62w does rattle when I use unprotected cells and if I shake it quite hard but that doesn't bother me at all. The future potential of the SC63 is bright with options for 90+ CRI down the road, something ZL is contemplating and may produce later this year. I for one would be ecstatic to buy a 90+ CRI light capable of 900+ lumens in a small SC63 size package.



Just because they are selling lights doenst mean their customer base doesnt have issues with the design or that it isnt a bad design. They could be selling even more if they had kept the spring contact/wide cell compatibility design. A lot of people are not buying or are selling these models just because of this one bad imo design decision. I am one of them. And, members here and on other flashlight enthusiast sites are a large part of their customer base, really their main customer base. I personally dont know a single person who knows what Zebralight even is outside of this site and other flashaholic sights. I bet most members dont either. They are a niche market specialty flashlight company who tailors to flashlight enthusiasts and not the general public. This design is proof of that. I bet you will/would never see Fenix, Nitecore, Eagletac, Surefire, 4Sevens, exc. make a design choice like this.

Dont get me wrong, I like the company and do look forward to their future offerings. I have a H600Fd MKIII in the mail right now in fact. But, I dont like this new design and likely wont be buying any lights with it and I know Im not the only one. Like I said, I hope ZL realizes that a lot of people dont want to be limited so much on their choice of cells and goes back to the regular spring contact design or a new one that is not limited to one exact size/type of cell.


----------



## sidecross

I am a new consumer of Zebralights of only the last few months, but not new to having and using flashlights for many years.

I am now very partial to Zebralights because I EDC two lights, now a SC32 and a SC600w Mk II L2 18650 XM-L2. I have on order a newer SC600 Mk III 18650 XHP35. Their size and quality are main reason for my choice to replace what I had used before.

As for the battery issue, this seems to be an issue of debate and much misunderstanding; as been mentioned by others this is not the thread for any more discussion.


----------



## sidecross

Tachead said:


> Dont get me wrong, I like the company and do look forward to their future offerings. I have a H600Fd MKIII in the mail right now in fact.


The ZLH600Fd Mk 3 is only 1.7mm longer than the SC600 Mk3 and the ZLH600Fd Mk 3 is 25 grams lighter. The ZLH600Fd Mk 3 is now my headlamp.


----------



## Tachead

sidecross said:


> The ZLH600Fd Mk 3 is only 1.7mm longer than the SC600 Mk3 and the ZLH600Fd Mk 3 is 25 grams lighter. The ZLH600Fd Mk 3 is now my headlamp.




Please tell me you dont mean the battery compartment? The specs said it will take up to a 69mm cell? PM sent.


----------



## sidecross

Tachead said:


> Please tell me you dont mean the battery compartment? The specs said it will take up to a 69mm cell? PM sent.


Yes it is 69mm and will accept protected batteries at that length; it also has a traditional spring back.


----------



## Tachead

sidecross said:


> Yes it is 69mm and will accept protected batteries at that length; it also has a traditional spring back.



Great, I only bought it because the specs said 69mm and it has the spring contact. Glad I dont have to send it back. Thanks for the confirmation:thumbsup:


----------



## snowlover91

Tachead said:


> Just because they are selling lights doenst mean their customer base doesnt have issues with the design or that it isnt a bad design. They could be selling even more if they had kept the spring contact/wide cell compatibility design. A lot of people are not buying or are selling these models just because of this one bad imo design decision. I am one of them. And, members here and on other flashlight enthusiast sites are a large part of their customer base, really their main customer base. I personally dont know a single person who knows what Zebralight even is outside of this site and other flashaholic sights. I bet most members dont either. They are a niche market specialty flashlight company who tailors to flashlight enthusiasts and not the general public. This design is proof of that. *I bet you will/would never see Fenix, Nitecore, Eagletac, Surefire, 4Sevens, exc. make a design choice like this.*
> 
> Dont get me wrong, I like the company and do look forward to their future offerings. I have a H600Fd MKIII in the mail right now in fact. But, I dont like this new design and likely wont be buying any lights with it and I know Im not the only one. Like I said, I hope ZL realizes that a lot of people dont want to be limited so much on their choice of cells and goes back to the regular spring contact design or a new one that is not limited to one exact size/type of cell.



Nitecore already has this in many of their lights but theirs is the opposite; unprotected batteries can't be used unless they are button tops. Even then some of their lights won't work with button top unprotected cells, for example the EC4S series I've read require protected button tops. A button top unprotected cell isnt long enough to work based upon reports I've read. While the change for ZL may be a turn off for some I believe many will overlook it and the result on sales will be minimal imo. I've read maybe 15 members on here who stated they wouldn't buy this light... That definitely isn't going to hurt cells. I see where you are coming from but I don't think it will affect them negatively and there are many other variables to consider that could affect sales, those who like the shorter length and use of unprotected batteries might be more inclined to buy more than one thus offsetting those who refuse to buy it. It's hard to know since we have no sales data or anything to go off of but overall the initial demand has been strong for the MK3 and will probably be for the new SC63.


----------



## snowlover91

scs said:


> While the general response _here _has been positive, Tachead has brought up some potentially valid points. Only time will tell.
> Some people buy things without first considering every potential shortcoming, some of which will be consequential and some will turn out not to be. Therefore, just because something seems popular during the initial release phase, it doesn't mean it's all good.
> And who knows how many ZL expected and planned and how many were actually ordered? Perhaps it sold out early only because ZL's first batch was really small to begin with, just so they can test the water, get some initial feedback and perhaps revise their design.



Agreed it is hard to know without knowing all the facts. I'm just going off the correspondence I've had with them about the SC63 and future models of it. They mentioned that they were running max production for the MK3 lights and had to push back the HI version and SC63 due to this high demand. Even if they have a lot of returns or problems it does indicate at least a high initial demand for the product. 

If they release a high CRI 90+ SC63 with 900 or more lumens like they mentioned I know everyone here will be buying those up, even those who don't like the design or battery restriction will be tempted with that! The hard part is waiting... The good news is it gives my wallet time to recover!


----------



## Lumencrazy

Tachead said:


> Just because they are selling lights doenst mean their customer base doesnt have issues with the design or that it isnt a bad design. They could be selling even more if they had kept the spring contact/wide cell compatibility design. A lot of people are not buying or are selling these models just because of this one bad imo design decision. I am one of them. And, members here and on other flashlight enthusiast sites are a large part of their customer base, really their main customer base. I personally dont know a single person who knows what Zebralight even is outside of this site and other flashaholic sights. I bet most members dont either. They are a niche market specialty flashlight company who tailors to flashlight enthusiasts and not the general public. This design is proof of that. I bet you will/would never see Fenix, Nitecore, Eagletac, Surefire, 4Sevens, exc. make a design choice like this.
> 
> Dont get me wrong, I like the company and do look forward to their future offerings. I have a H600Fd MKIII in the mail right now in fact. But, I dont like this new design and likely wont be buying any lights with it and I know Im not the only one. Like I said, I hope ZL realizes that a lot of people dont want to be limited so much on their choice of cells and goes back to the regular spring contact design or a new one that is not limited to one exact size/type of cell.




We are the largest customer base? Please show me the data! A lot af people are. CPF has approx 5300 active members. Even if 10% bought Zebralight it would still be nowhere near enough to keep the company in business. Many people like myself are waiting for these new models because they are optimized for unprotected cells and have a high quality built in protection circuit. I can use the highest quality Panasonics knowing that the protection circuit (the curcuit itself) is not some low budget design from some unknown manufacturer. Who makes the protection circuit for your cells? I do not mean who installs them on the battery under their own brand name, but who is the actual manufacturer of the proyection circuit board? Who knows?


----------



## Tixx

Still talking batteries? Too many notifications. Unsubscribing.


----------



## sidecross

Tixx said:


> Still talking batteries? Too many notifications. Unsubscribing.


That is a drastic choice and one I hope you will reconsider. 

As one who took part in writting about the battery issue, I have made an effort to stop and will try to continue.


----------



## Tachead

Lumencrazy said:


> We are the largest customer base? Please show me the data! A lot af people are. CPF has approx 5300 active members. Even if 10% bought Zebralight it would still be nowhere near enough to keep the company in business. Many people like myself are waiting for these new models because they are optimized for unprotected cells and have a high quality built in protection circuit. I can use the highest quality Panasonics knowing that the protection circuit (the curcuit itself) is not some low budget design from some unknown manufacturer. Who makes the protection circuit for your cells? I do not mean who installs them on the battery under their own brand name, but who is the actual manufacturer of the proyection circuit board? Who knows?



I did not say "largest" man, I said large. Do you know many non-flashaholic people that even know what Zebralight is? Because I dont and neither does anybody I know. I know a lot of outdoorsy people who use lights frequently too. Zebralight is a niche market company and are not sold in almost any common stores, only factory direct or from specialty flashlight stores. I would guess that most owners have at least visited CPF or another flashlight forum to find out about Zebralight. Also, as I said, its not just about protected vs non-protected, its about the cell having to be exactly 65mm with no tolerance at all, not even for a button top, and a controversial contact design that may or may not hold up over time. Plus, whats wrong with making it fit both so everyone is happy and people can use whatever cells they already have? Makes more sense doesnt it? You like unprotected, some dont. It can be a personal preference thing or just using what cells you already have on hand instead of being forced to source more(which can be hard to find depending on location), that you may not need, that are exactly 65mm. As for who makes the protection circuit in protected cells, a lot are made by Seiko Instruments Inc(opened shop in 1937). They are far from an unknown manufacturer and are a much larger company then most, if not all, flashlight companies. The PTC maker is listed in some cells specs and if not some companies will provide the information upon request. Also, most companies who rebrand cells and add a protection circuit also give a warranty on the cell and protection circuit(usually 12 months or more unlike bare cells). I for one, trust Seiko far more then any flashlights company, especially Zebralight who is known to have spotty QC, from time to time, and many issues requiring returns and exchanges. Seiko has been making high quality timepieces and electronics for almost 80 years.


----------



## gunga

Hey guys. Can we just talk about the upcoming light? Back on topic?


----------



## Tachead

gunga said:


> Hey guys. Can we just talk about the upcoming light? Back on topic?



We are talking about the light(its limited battery compartment size and contact design specifically). Well except for the ones who keep bringing up the protected vs bare cell argument.


----------



## gunga

I mostly meant enough with the endless discussion on the battery related stuff. But fine. You two seems interested in the debate. I'll just check less often.


----------



## Tachead

gunga said:


> I mostly meant enough with the endless discussion on the battery related stuff. But fine. You two seems interested in the debate. I'll just check less often.



Sorry if this topic is not of concern to you and is cluttering up the thread. I apologize for talking so much about it but, it is a fairly large issue to some of us and I am hoping Zebralight will take note of that. I like what they have to offer most of the time and am just hoping that this design doesnt become the norm as I prefer more flexibility in cell compatibility and the traditional spring contact design.


----------



## snowlover91

Yeah I agree it's time to move on from the discussion of the battery. People have differing opinions and let's leave it at that. 

I like the the prospects of the XHP35 emitter. My one concern is whether the neutral variant will have a nice tint or if it's more green or yellow? I've read a few reports of green/yellow tint with the XHP35 and was wondering if someone who has an MK3 can comment on the tint compared with neutral XM-L2 emitters. The CRI is higher at 80 vs 75 for the SC62 with XM-L2 emitter but I'm wondering how consistent and nice the tint is.


----------



## Tachead

snowlover91 said:


> Yeah I agree it's time to move on from the discussion of the battery. People have differing opinions and let's leave it at that.
> 
> I like the the prospects of the XHP35 emitter. My one concern is whether the neutral variant will have a nice tint or if it's more green or yellow? I've read a few reports of green/yellow tint with the XHP35 and was wondering if someone who has an MK3 can comment on the tint compared with neutral XM-L2 emitters. The CRI is higher at 80 vs 75 for the SC62 with XM-L2 emitter but I'm wondering how consistent and nice the tint is.



I am wondering this as well. Also, how about tint shift? Does the NW XHP35 still have the yellow corona fading to purple spill effect that most XM-L2's have?


----------



## gunga

Good point. I've read little on the xhp35. I think reports are mixed (but generally good) on the sc600 iii, but I'm working from memory.


----------



## markr6

Tachead said:


> I am wondering this as well. Also, how about tint shift? Does the NW XHP35 still have the yellow corona fading to purple spill effect that most XM-L2's have?



I found them to be consistent on my SC600 MKIIIs. The member I sold the NW 4500K to thought it was too green; I guess I could see that. Definitely no yellow-purple though. The 5700K was a bit too cool for me, but just barely.


----------



## light-wolff

Tachead said:


> ... Does the NW XHP35 still have the yellow corona fading to purple spill effect ...?


My ZL SC600w MK III (with NW XHP35) definitely has it.


----------



## twistedraven

My 5700k MK3 has a noticeable green-purple shift.


----------



## ozzie_c_cobblepot

SC62 and SC62w are both now sold out on ZL website.


----------



## markr6

ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> SC62 and SC62w are both now sold out on ZL website.



I'm seeing the SC62 in stock. SC62 on backorder, but I guess that means it's gone for good? Why would it be backorderable?


----------



## scs

ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> SC62 and SC62w are both now sold out on ZL website.



As long as they're back ordered, don't mind the wait.


----------



## scs

markr6 said:


> I found them to be consistent on my SC600 MKIIIs. The member I sold the NW 4500K to thought it was too green; I guess I could see that. Definitely no yellow-purple though. The 5700K was a bit too cool for me, but just barely.



I became completely unsatisfied with the CRI of my H52Fw overnight. The change of heart came out of nowhere. So from now on I will purchase only hi cri ZLs.


----------



## ozzie_c_cobblepot

Weird, I think both were sold out yesterday. Huh.


----------



## MarkF786

scs said:


> I became completely unsatisfied with the CRI of my H52Fw overnight. The change of heart came out of nowhere. So from now on I will purchase only hi cri ZLs.



I'm just a newb, but I hope I don't develop a strong preference for NW or high CRI because it would really limit my choices :-/ So far my SC5w is my only neutral light, though I have a SC63W and Nitecore EC4SW on order.


----------



## ozzie_c_cobblepot

SC53w? Do you mean SC63w?


----------



## ozzie_c_cobblepot

Personally, I cannot stand neutral tints. They look all washed out to me.


----------



## psychbeat

I wonder if there will be a HiCRI XHP35 version of the H600? 
Hopefully in a ~4000K tint ... Nice to have a slightly larger hotspot with these new emitters compared w the XML series.

Also - I can get a bit of rattle in my h600w 
DOES NOT bother me. 

I hope they keep the ID bored slightly less than the first run of MKIIIs.


----------



## scs

ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> Personally, I cannot stand neutral tints. They look all washed out to me.



It's the low CRI that makes it look washed out.


----------



## ozzie_c_cobblepot

I tried the SC62d at IS when it came out, but didn't like that either. Maybe I'll give hi CRI another try, thanks for the info.


----------



## scs

MarkF786 said:


> I'm just a newb, but I hope I don't develop a strong preference for NW or high CRI because it would really limit my choices :-/ So far my SC5w is my only neutral light, though I have a SC53W and Nitecore EC4SW on order.



Then refrain from looking at beamshots of NW or high CRI lights, and definitely don't try out either in person, because you just might fall head over heels in love with them.


----------



## scs

ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> I tried the SC62d at IS when it came out, but didn't like that either. Maybe I'll give hi CRI another try, thanks for the info.


You might prefer cw tint with high cri, if that ever becomes commonplace.


----------



## markr6

psychbeat said:


> I hope they keep the ID bored slightly less than the first run of MKIIIs.



I hope so. My H600w is air tight! I get that "POP!" when removing the battery.


----------



## psychbeat

markr6 said:


> I hope so. My H600w is air tight! I get that "POP!" when removing the battery.



Mines been quite waterproof  but yeah I'm usually using raw cells -occasionally one or two with an extra wrapper (those PFs tend to have brittle wraps). 
The double wraps don't rattle - & I have to shake the others or tap it hard to hear it. 

Seems like the ID on the new models should be more like one of the bored Oveready SureFires etc. 

I'm still amazed the 12v boost driver is so efficient with these - definitely unique & innovative!

I'm guessing Cree is going to be producing more 12v multi chips in the future with better bins & CRI.


----------



## Tachead

MarkF786 said:


> I'm just a newb, but I hope I don't develop a strong preference for NW or high CRI because it would really limit my choices :-/ So far my SC5w is my only neutral light, though I have a SC53W and Nitecore EC4SW on order.



I hate to say it but, you likely will. They render colours so much better/more accurately and look more like natural sunlight. Low CRI cool white makes everything look bland and grey, kinda eerie if you will. High CRI neutral white also cuts through dust, rain, and fog better and causes less glare. CW may be a bit brighter, that's why they are so common(marketed to give higher lumen counts for the lumen race) but, neutral white high CRI emitters are better in pretty much every way.


----------



## Tachead

ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> Personally, I cannot stand neutral tints. They look all washed out to me.



You may need your eyes checked then lol. I respect personal preferences but from a technical/factual standpoint NW Hi CRI emitters render colours more accurately, cause less glare, penetrate rain, dust and fog better and are much closer to natural sunlight. Really, the only downside is the slight lumen penalty.


----------



## Tachead

I hope a high CRI NW version with the XHP35 emitter comes out throughout the ZL line as well. I also hope they go back to the old tail cap design like on the H600 MKIII's.


----------



## lampeDépêche

Tachead said:


> Low CRI cool white makes everything look bland and grey, kinda eerie if you will.



Exactly. I also feel like they do something weird to my depth perception--that grey-blue color flattens everything out. It's like it's covered in a slightly metallic glaze.

I don't know if there's any science to this, but it sure looks that way to me. When I look at a scene with a cool white emitter, it all looks flat. When I look with a neutral (esp. a hi CRI), it gets its depth back again. Things that are closer have shadows behind them. Objects with texture have their texture once again.

You won't notice this until you try with both lights in your hand, and a complex visual scene in front of you. After that, you will suddenly stop caring about the extra 10% lumen difference.


----------



## Tachead

lampeDépêche said:


> Exactly. *I also feel like they do something weird to my depth perception--that grey-blue color flattens everything out. It's like it's covered in a slightly metallic glaze.*
> 
> I don't know if there's any science to this, but it sure looks that way to me. When I look at a scene with a cool white emitter, it all looks flat. When I look with a neutral (esp. a hi CRI), it gets its depth back again. Things that are closer have shadows behind them. Objects with texture have their texture once again.
> 
> You won't notice this until you try with both lights in your hand, and a complex visual scene in front of you. After that, you will suddenly stop caring about the extra 10% lumen difference.



I think it may be caused partially by the increased glare/reflection inherent to them. They really do kind of steal the life out of everything. I havent bought a CW light in a long time and dont plan to again. It is frustrating though because some lights never come out in anything but CW and if you like the features your only choice is to mod one or miss out on it. At least the market seems to be slowly changing over. More and more lights are available in NW with higher CRI ratings every year. I think one day CW will be in the minority or maybe even completely phased out. Or, there will be hi CRI cool white emitters released like someone else mentioned.

That's one of the great things about Zebralight, lots of emitter options including many in NW and NW hi CRI:thumbsup:

On that note... come on ZL, bring us some hand picked 90+ CRI NW XHP35 powered lights:rock:


----------



## SG Hall

Does a dedomed emitter automatically mean I higher CRI than domed or just a shift to a more neutral tint?


----------



## KeepingItLight

Some CPF members and moderators have suggested that battery talk is beginning to go in circles on the regular threads for the new SC600 Mk. III and SC63. I started a new thread so the conversation can continue. Let's take all the battery discussion over there.

Here is the link: ZebraLight's new 12-volt models require an **Unprotected Battery**


----------



## nbp

Thank you for doing that KiT; I think that will help a lot with keeping things on topic here. Are you all ok with just leaving this thread as is and restarting the conversation there or do you feel some posts need to be moved? I don't care to sift through 395 posts to do it but if you guys who are very interested in the topic want some moved you could assemble a list of post numbers which would then be easy enough to move. Just let me know if you need help. Thanks for your cooperation and make sure to play nice in your new thread. Haha.


----------



## psychbeat

SG Hall said:


> Does a dedomed emitter automatically mean I higher CRI than domed or just a shift to a more neutral tint?



If it does change the CRI it's probably minimally. 
Mainly u just see a yellowish-sometimes green shift. 
Also, the tint shift between spot and spill is minimized to almost none. 

The Cree hi intensity models have a thin coating that keeps the tint from shifting and I'd assume keeps the tint more uniform spot-to-spill-wise. 

I don't have any hi intensity emitters myself but quite a few dedomed reflector and optic based lights. 

I like yellowy tints myself more than roses for outdoor use as it helps in the fog and with overall contrast discerning mud from rock from roots etc.


----------



## psychbeat

KeepingItLight said:


> Some CPF members and moderators have suggested that battery talk is beginning to go in circles on the regular threads for the new SC600 Mk. III and SC63. I started a new thread so the conversation can continue. Let's take all the battery discussion over there.
> 
> Here is the link: ZebraLight's new 12-volt models require an **Unprotected Battery**



Thanks for that!

I'll definitely stay away from that can of worms haha


----------



## KeepingItLight

Tachead said:


> You may need your eyes checked then lol. I respect personal preferences but from a technical/factual standpoint NW Hi CRI emitters render colours more accurately, cause less glare, penetrate rain, dust and fog better and are much closer to natural sunlight. Really, the only downside is the slight lumen penalty.



I know you are only joking! After all, that's what LOL means. Nevertheless, let me toss in my two cents.

My own preference is for neutral tint and high CRI. When another states a different preference, however, saying that they see better under a cool white flashlight, _I accept them at their word._ The only "fact" that I care about is that they are better at judging how well they see than I am.


----------



## Tixx

Back because I had a thought. Who is able to modify an SC63w by cutting down the tube to accept 18350 cells for me? Will pay the price.


----------



## Tachead

KeepingItLight said:


> Some CPF members and moderators have suggested that battery talk is beginning to go in circles on the regular threads for the new SC600 Mk. III and SC63. I started a new thread so the conversation can continue. Let's take all the battery discussion over there.
> 
> Here is the link: ZebraLight's new 12-volt models require an **Unprotected Battery**




We had moved on but, thanks for bringing it up again

The battery compartment size is a feature of these models so, I dont see why we cant talk about it in a thread about these models. If you have an issue, then why dont you just not read the thread? Or skim over the stuff that doesnt interest you? A lot of the recent talk hasnt even been about unprotected vs protected it has been about the exact tolerances for this model(exactly 65mm + or - 0.0mm). A lot of bare cells dont fit either. That and the end cap contact design has been talked about(another new feature on this model). Some important/interesting info has come up through theses discussions. These threads always go in circles you must notice. Are we going to make a sub thread for tint circles, reflector circles, emitter circles, clip circles exc? I dont think your keeping it very light(pun intended) man. Just chill out and skim over what doesnt interest you like the rest of us:thumbsup:


----------



## Tachead

psychbeat said:


> If it does change the CRI it's probably minimally.
> Mainly u just see a yellowish-sometimes green shift.
> Also, the tint shift between spot and spill is minimized to almost none.
> 
> The Cree hi intensity models have a thin coating that keeps the tint from shifting and I'd assume keeps the tint more uniform spot-to-spill-wise.
> 
> I don't have any hi intensity emitters myself but quite a few dedomed reflector and optic based lights.
> 
> I like yellowy tints myself more than roses for outdoor use as it helps in the fog and with overall contrast discerning mud from rock from roots etc.




I think I am leaning towards liking yellowy tints over rosey/magentas myself too. It will be interesting to see what a 90+ CRI XHP35 will look like. Hopefully ZL will be able to source some and offer us them in one or more of their models.


----------



## Tachead

KeepingItLight said:


> I know you are only joking! After all, that's what LOL means. Nevertheless, let me toss in my two cents.
> 
> My own preference is for neutral tint and high CRI. When another states a different preference, however, saying that they see better under a cool white flashlight, _I accept them at their word._ The only "fact" that I care about is that they are better at judging how well they see than I am.



I somewhat agree, like I said "I respect personal preferences" but facts are facts. The colour rendering index doesnt lie and NW hi CRI emitters are superior at all the things I stated, its scientifically proven. That said, one can prefer whichever they like; CW or NW, low or hi CRI and there is nothing wrong with either personal preferance.


----------



## snowlover91

Tachead said:


> We had moved on but, thanks for bringing it up again
> 
> The battery compartment size is a feature of these models so, I dont see why we cant talk about it in a thread about these models. If you have an issue, then why dont you just not read the thread? Or skim over the stuff that doesnt interest you? A lot of the recent talk hasnt even been about unprotected vs protected it has been about the exact tolerances for this model(exactly 65mm + or - 0.0mm). A lot of bare cells dont fit either. That and the end cap contact design has been talked about(another new feature on this model). Some important/interesting info has come up through theses discussions. These threads always go in circles you must notice. Are we going to make a sub thread for tint circles, reflector circles, emitter circles, clip circles exc? I dont think your keeping it very light(pun intended) man. Just chill out and skim over what doesnt interest you like the rest of us:thumbsup:



I think the point being made is that we've spent most of this thread discussing the battery more than the light itself and all the pros/cons have been covered thoroughly in this thread already. No need to further continue the discussion here. Also when a mod asks us to stop the discussion regarding something it's generally a good idea to do so. 

I for for one am excited about the prospect of ZL potentially offering the 90+ CRI for this model. To my knowledge there is no 18650 light out there putting out 900+ lumens with 90+ CRI from a light like this, unless it's a custom light. To have all this in a light the size of the SC63 would be great. I am also curious how the new design will feel in the hand.. Part of me is skeptical and the other part curious.


----------



## SG Hall

psychbeat said:


> If it does change the CRI it's probably minimally.
> Mainly u just see a yellowish-sometimes green shift.
> Also, the tint shift between spot and spill is minimized to almost none.
> 
> The Cree hi intensity models have a thin coating that keeps the tint from shifting and I'd assume keeps the tint more uniform spot-to-spill-wise.
> 
> I don't have any hi intensity emitters myself but quite a few dedomed reflector and optic based lights.
> 
> I like yellowy tints myself more than roses for outdoor use as it helps in the fog and with overall contrast discerning mud from rock from roots etc.



Thanks psychbeat. I understand what you mean. I'm assuming it affects it a bit, because high CRI seems to synonymous with NW rather than CW, but they are not the same.


----------



## psychbeat

SG Hall said:


> Thanks psychbeat. I understand what you mean. I'm assuming it affects it a bit, because high CRI seems to synonymous with NW rather than CW, but they are not the same.



Cheers 

CRI also doesn't necessarily mean more contrast in my experience. 

I have 219a lights & xpg HiCRI lights that don't show as much contrast in wet/fog as my lower CRI dedomed mtg2 for example which is quite yellowy. 

I wish we could dedome zebralights more easily as I like the uniform spill to spot and yellowish tint shift (as long as it's not green - ick) but zebralight pressfits their bezels so they are VERY tough to mod. 



On another note 

I'm down to argue about whether this thread should TALK about batteries ... Just not the batteries themselves


----------



## fnsooner

I dropped my SC62w yesterday, from about six feet and bezel down, straight onto a hard tile floor. I cringed and prepared myself for the worse but thankfully, no broken lens or functioning problems. 

This got me to thinking about the new spring configuration and how well it works as a shock absorber. I was pleased when ZebraLight started using a double spring set up a few years ago. Does the new gen lights(SC63 and SC600 MK III) still use a spring on the positive end?


----------



## Tachead

fnsooner said:


> I dropped my SC62w yesterday, from about six feet and bezel down, straight onto a hard tile floor. I cringed and prepared myself for the worse but thankfully, no broken lens or functioning problems.
> 
> This got me to thinking about the new spring configuration and how well it works as a shock absorber. I was pleased when ZebraLight started using a double spring set up a few years ago. Does the new gen lights(SC63 and SC600 MK III) still use a spring on the positive end?



Yeah I worry about this too. My guess is the new design will be much less forgiving when it comes to shock. It is definitely an inferior design in my opinion and a step backwards. The only real plus to the new design is slightly shorter body length. Not worth the trade off imo.

The positive end doesnt have much of a spring either. I believe it is a flexible tab of sorts. Maybe somebody could post pics?


----------



## lampeDépêche

Tixx said:


> Who is able to modify an SC63w by cutting down the tube to accept 18350 cells for me?



I have had the same thought about the H600 line--it would be cool to see what it looks like if shortened for an 18350.

I'm not sure it would be that easy, though--the current designs do not leave a lot of metal to work with for cutting new threads. Might be easier to cut 30mm out of the middle and weld the threaded end back on? But not being a welder myself, I don't know.


----------



## Tixx

lampeDépêche said:


> I have had the same thought about the H600 line--it would be cool to see what it looks like if shortened for an 18350.
> 
> I'm not sure it would be that easy, though--the current designs do not leave a lot of metal to work with for cutting new threads. Might be easier to cut 30mm out of the middle and weld the threaded end back on? But not being a welder myself, I don't know.


Yeah, I was guessing a cut out of the middle would be the way. I hope I can find someone with this ability!


----------



## Tachead

Tixx said:


> Yeah, I was guessing a cut out of the middle would be the way. I hope I can find someone with this ability!



You just need someone with a band saw or metal lathe and a tig welder really. It would not be that difficult. It would not look pretty however without stripping the electronics and having it re-anodized as the tig welding would burn the anodizing and leave an obvious weld line.


----------



## Tixx

Tachead said:


> You just need someone with a band saw or metal lathe and a tig welder really. It would not be that difficult. It would not look pretty however without stripping the electronics and having it re-anodized as the tig welding would burn the anodizing and leave an obvious weld line.


I would take that for sure. I may even stop hunting for the perfect pocket edc for a little while.


----------



## Fireclaw18

Tachead said:


> You just need someone with a band saw or metal lathe and a tig welder really. It would not be that difficult. It would not look pretty however without stripping the electronics and having it re-anodized as the tig welding would burn the anodizing and leave an obvious weld line.



Cut and weld the middle of the battery tube. That way you can cover the weld with something (grip tape, gaffer's tape, a rubber sleeve taken from a cheap flashlight, etc.)


----------



## Tixx

Fireclaw18 said:


> Cut and weld the middle of the battery tube. That way you can cover the weld with something (grip tape, gaffer's tape, a rubber sleeve taken from a cheap flashlight, etc.)


That would be perfect!


----------



## RIX TUX

I am sorry if there already posts about this but too many battery size jabber to look through it all......what does anybody think of the design of sc63? I am not sold but if the emitter is spectacular I may be interested.


----------



## Fireclaw18

RIX TUX said:


> I am sorry if there already posts about this but too many battery size jabber to look through it all......what does anybody think of the design of sc63? I am not sold but if the emitter is spectacular I may be interested.




Needs knurling.

If I were designing it I'd have eliminated the ribs at the edges of the battery tube and the smooth section at the center replaced both with knurling over the entire battery tube except for a strip below clip.

As-is, the SC63 looks like a throwback light.... like an SC60 ate part of an SC62. It looks messy and without knurling, not very functional.


----------



## fnsooner

Tachead said:


> Yeah I worry about this too. My guess is the new design will be much less forgiving when it comes to shock. It is definitely an inferior design in my opinion and a step backwards. The only real plus to the new design is slightly shorter body length. Not worth the trade off imo.
> 
> The positive end doesnt have much of a spring either. I believe it is a flexible tab of sorts. Maybe somebody could post pics?



Good to know that there is still a spring on the positive end of things. This would seem to be the most important spring placement to protect the potted electronics. Can’t wait to get mine to check it out.


----------



## Tachead

Fireclaw18 said:


> Needs knurling.
> 
> If I were designing it I'd have eliminated the ribs at the edges of the battery tube and the smooth section at the center replaced both with knurling over the entire battery tube except for a strip below clip.
> 
> As-is, the SC63 looks like a throwback light.... like an SC60 ate part of an SC62. It looks messy and without knurling, not very functional.




+1


----------



## snowlover91

RIX TUX said:


> I am sorry if there already posts about this but too many battery size jabber to look through it all......what does anybody think of the design of sc63? I am not sold but if the emitter is spectacular I may be interested.



At first I didn't like the design however after looking at it more I actually like it and think it might prove quite functional. I'm thinking the smooth and concaved center portion will provide a nice grip while the ribbing on either end will help prevent slipping. The smooth area will also make it easier when clipping it on. The new LED I don't have any experience with but it is rated at 80cri versus the 75cri for the previous emitter. In theory it should be a little bit better than the XM-L2 version but until I receive mine I won't know for sure.


----------



## 18650

If we want to be fair, all of this cool white/neutral white, regular/high CRI talk of the past few pages is about as related to the topic as the forbidden protected/unprotected battery talk that was shunted off elsewhere.


----------



## gunga

We don't want to be fair. We just have discussed the battery thing to death.


----------



## KeepingItLight

Tachead said:


> I respect personal preferences but *from a technical/factual standpoint NW Hi CRI emitters render colours more accurately*, cause less glare, penetrate rain, dust and fog better and are much closer to natural sunlight. Really, the only downside is the slight lumen penalty.
> 
> _[Emphasis added]_





KeepingItLight said:


> My own preference is for neutral tint and high CRI. When another states a different preference, however, saying that they see better under a cool white flashlight, _I accept them at their word._ The only "fact" that I care about is that they are better at judging how well they see than I am.





Tachead said:


> I somewhat agree, like I said "I respect personal preferences" but facts are facts. The colour rendering index doesnt lie and NW hi CRI emitters are superior at all the things I stated, its scientifically proven. That said, one can prefer whichever they like; CW or NW, low or hi CRI and there is nothing wrong with either personal preferance.




This is complex. I agree on one thing. If your perception system is a camera or computer, then the things you cite are "facts." Another thing I agree with is that high-CRI is bound to do a better job discriminating between colors, no matter what perception system you use. 

The only small thing with which I do not agree is this: Perception is as much psychological as it is physical. Our brains perform all sorts of visual-processing feats that transform the signal it receives from our eyes. Our brains do not see what a camera sees or a computer measures. 

When it comes to tint, with CRI held constant, I question whether it is a fact that all people will report that, "Neutral-white emitters render colours more accurately." I believe a significant minority among the population will report that colors are more accurate for them under cool-white light. They are not wrong. 

Note that this is not asking a person what their preference is. It is asking them which tint more accurately renders colors. Color itself is a psychological phenomenon, entirely manufactured in the brain. (Light has frequency, not color.) It should not be surprising that perception of color "accuracy" would be a subjective, psychological phenomenon.

This, of course, depends on the degree. Given a sufficiently blue (i.e., cool white) tint, we can probably get the overwhelming majority of people to acknowledge that it does not do a good job representing colors. But given a moderately cool light source, I expect that many will report seeing color better with it.

BTW: This is all conjecture on my part! I am not an expert. Nor have I read any scientific studies on the subject.


----------



## sidecross

gunga said:


> We don't want to be fair. We just have discussed the battery thing to death.


Didn't you mean to write in the 'first person' of "I" rather than "we"? :wave:

The 2 pages of comments on "ZebraLight's new 12-volt models require an **Unprotected Battery**" seems to indicate that your "we" was not a complete or a total agreement.


----------



## psychbeat

Like I said earlier- I'm down to argue about arguing protected vs unprotected .. Just not the cells themselves. 

Slightly higher CRI and larger hotspot with smaller size & unique emitter is why I'm interested in these.


----------



## nbp

18650 said:


> If we want to be fair, all of this cool white/neutral white, regular/high CRI talk of the past few pages is about as related to the topic as the forbidden protected/unprotected battery talk that was shunted off elsewhere.



The problem was that there was post after post that had NOTHING to do with the light at all, where people were discussing battery construction, protection circuits, thermal runaway, Boeing and Tesla battery packs, safe current draws etc. etc. It was off topic and the debate was stifling the discussion of those who actually wanted to talk about the features of the light. At some point, it is more productive to start a separate thread when a specific topic begins to take over the spirit of the original thread and/or discourage participation of other interested members. Your rights to bicker end where it infringes on others' rights to read, comment and learn in peace. 

The arguing about whether or not you can argue is becoming more than a little annoying to me. I am not interested in this light and growing weary of visiting this thread simply to babysit. Please stop whining.


----------



## fnsooner

RIX TUX said:


> I am sorry if there already posts about this but too many battery size jabber to look through it all......*what does anybody think of the design of sc63? * I am not sold but if the emitter is spectacular I may be interested.


It is hard to say with out actually carrying one and using it for a while. It looks fine to me. One thing I have found out with pocket knives and pocket flashlights is that you can examined them and read about them ad nauseam, but you never really know until you use them for a while. 

The most defining moment in my flashaholic experience is when I received my SC60. The SC63 is being called a throw back to it. The SC62 beat out the SC60. So who knows? 

When I head out the door in the morning, the SC62w and the SC63w will both be within arm's reach. I will definitely grab the SC63w for a month or so at first. What I will be carrying in three months is the question.


----------



## snowlover91

Same here. Since I have an SC62w this will be a great comparison to see which I like better. On paper the SC63 is a winner. It has higher output, shorter length, lighter and 80cri vs 75. The one unknown at this time is the new design and grip, I have a feeling ZL wouldn't have gone this route unless it provided some big advantages. I'm just speculating here but the concave design may feel more natural in the hand while the ribbing at the top and bottom helps with keeping a good grip. The smooth portion also should in theory make the pocket clip friendlier to pockets instead of shredding them like some ZL clips have done. 

Another area I'm excited about is the potential for the high CRI options in the future. It sounds like they for sure plan a SC63Fd/c series with the potential to do some 90+ CRI SC63d/c lights also, although they said that one was uncertain. I noticed in looking at their website that many of their lights are on "back order" status so it appears they've had a busy Christmas and they're still trying to keep up with demand. Hopefully the shipping time for the SC63 will be on time or ahead of schedule.


----------



## Lumencrazy

423 posts and no one has actually reviewed or even seen a real one. What does that tell you? Everyone wants everyone else to know what they think.


----------



## fnsooner

Lumencrazy said:


> 423 posts and no one has actually reviewed or even seen a real one. *What does that tell you?* Everyone wants everyone else to know what they think.


Yep, I think part of the anxiety in this thread, at least from my perspective, is that a lot of people are very fond of their SC62(w) and all they want Zebralight to do is to sell them another if it gets lost or another is needed as a gift or something. The SC63 may be another great light but it is not the SC62.


The SC62 will be no more.


----------



## sticktodrum

So couldn't one buy another SC62 now?


----------



## Fireclaw18

snowlover91 said:


> At first I didn't like the design however after looking at it more I actually like it and think it might prove quite functional. I'm thinking the smooth and concaved center portion will provide a nice grip while the ribbing on either end will help prevent slipping...



I doubt it. I hated the completely smooth body on my old SC51. That light never felt secure in the hand. The ribbed body on the SC52, 32 and 62 only felt marginally better. The ribs prevented the light from slipping perpendicular to the grooves, but provided no more security than a smooth tube against slipping parallel to the grooves.

Both felt vastly less secure in the hand than a light with even a moderate amount of knurling.


----------



## Tachead

Fireclaw18 said:


> I doubt it. I hated the completely smooth body on my old SC51. That light never felt secure in the hand. The ribbed body on the SC52, 32 and 62 only felt marginally better. The ribs prevented the light from slipping perpendicular to the grooves, but provided no more security than a smooth tube against slipping parallel to the grooves.
> 
> Both felt vastly less secure in the hand than a light with even a moderate amount of knurling.



I agree. I think Zebralight really needs to ditch the fugly ribs and/or smooth bodies and stick with knurling like on the SC600 and SC5 series but, give us a flat spot under the clip so they dont cheese grate our pants. There is a reason why almost all brands of lights use knurling and I dont think ditching one of the best features of a good light is worth it just to try and differentiate themselves from the pack(they already do that with their excellent drivers, UI, and various emitter options)


----------



## fnsooner

sticktodrum said:


> So couldn't one buy another SC62 now?



Probably. Although I don’t think any can be found in stock anywhere.

ZL put the whole SC62 series on the discontinued list and then the SC62d sold out and was taken off their site. I assumed that’s what would happen to all of the others as they sold out. Low and behold the 62 and 62w sell out and they get put on backorder and not removed from their site. So I am not sure what ZebraLight’s intentions are. If I were ZL as long as they sell, I would keep making them.


----------



## fnsooner

I don’t hate knurling but I tend to gravitate away from it. I have several knives and flashlights with it and none of them have made the cut as something I use much. I think it is probably pretty important when wearing gloves, but I don’t wear gloves enough to miss it. With bare hands, I think the grooves in the SC62 work great and help to keep weight to a minimum. I think the SC63 will probably be similar. 

I ECD’d the SC60w for quite a while and never missed knurling. I think I prefer good ergonomics to help me hang on to my pocket things. The Spyderco Caly 3.5 with a carbon fiber handle is my go to pocket knife and is a good example of this. I keep it clipped inside my right back or right front pocket. The handle is very smooth and slips in and out of my pocket frictionlessly.

If I am doing something outside and need to wear gloves, I use my Spyderco Military and a flashlight with a forward clicky tail switch.Both have good knurling. I guess it kind of depends on the application.

I think having the SC600 and the SC5 with knurling and the SC63 and SC52 without knurling gives everyone a choice.


----------



## Fireclaw18

fnsooner said:


> ...I think the grooves in the SC62 work great and help to keep weight to a minimum...



I don't think the presence or absence of ribs or knurling has anything to do with weight savings. The DQG 18650 Tiny IV is almost fully knurled and weighs less than a Zebralight SC62 and SC63.

I think it's purely a stylistic choice of "what looks good and feels good". Here, in my opinion, Zebralight made the wrong choice.


----------



## fnsooner

Fireclaw18 said:


> I don't think the presence or absence of ribs or knurling has anything to do with weight savings. The DQG 18650 Tiny IV is almost fully knurled and weighs less than a Zebralight SC62 and SC63.


That may be true about the weight. I just assumed that if you have a tube and cut away some grooves and concave the center, it will decrease weight and improve ergonomics. I guess you could just start out with a thinner walled tube and keep the weight the same or lighter. 


Also, I have never really checked out the DQG. It appears to have an acrylic lens which would save some weight and have nothing to do with the knurling and might skew the comparison.


----------



## RIX TUX

psychbeat said:


> Like I said earlier- I'm down to argue about arguing protected vs unprotected .. Just not the cells themselves.
> 
> Slightly higher CRI and larger hotspot with smaller size & unique emitter is why I'm interested in these.


+1


----------



## Mr. LED

Deleted. Question answered already. Sorry.


----------



## SubLGT

jak said:


> Kind of a throwback to the SC60... I think I like it.




I like it. The lack of knurling in the center is an asset, not a deficit, IMO. No more shredded pockets. 
My similarly sized Armytek Prime C1 has no knurling, and feels secure in hand. I expect the SC63 will also feel secure.
If it had a tail switch, then I might want some aggressive knurling.


----------



## Tixx

SubLGT said:


> I like it. The lack of knurling in the center is an asset, not a deficit, IMO. No more shredded pockets.
> My similarly sized Armytek Prime C1 has no knurling, and feels secure in hand. I expect the SC63 will also feel secure.
> If it had a tail switch, then I might want some aggressive knurling.


Makes sense! Never needed much knurling myself. Maybe once it would have stopped a butterfinger drop.


----------



## markr6

This thread got crazy! Well, we're getting close. I can't wait to try one, but wish there were more SC62w available for a little while longer in case I end up not liking the 63.


----------



## Tachead

markr6 said:


> This thread got crazy! Well, we're getting close. I can't wait to try one, *but wish there were more SC62w available for a little while longer in case I end up not liking the 63*.



+1 

I am not a fan of the the new cell body design and hope that Zebralight either keeps the old models or offers versions of the SC600 MKIII and SC63 variants in the old spring contact 69mm tube design.


----------



## emarkd

Tachead said:


> hope that Zebralight...offers versions of the SC600 MKIII and SC63 variants in the old spring contact 69mm tube design.



I'd give that up right now. No way they offer two of the same exact light with only 4mm length difference between them. Forget about it. You have a slight (very slight, imo) chance of them keeping the sc62 around longer but that's it.


----------



## Tachead

emarkd said:


> I'd give that up right now. No way they offer two of the same exact light with only 4mm length difference between them. Forget about it. You have a slight (very slight, imo) chance of them keeping the sc62 around longer but that's it.



O I know. I didnt have my hopes up. There is probably a better chance of them switching back, or to a better design, on the next gen models. Bad decision if you ask me and I think they will loose a lot of customers because of it(at least for these models).


----------



## scs

SubLGT said:


> I like it. The lack of knurling in the center is an asset, not a deficit, IMO. No more shredded pockets.
> My similarly sized Armytek Prime C1 has no knurling, and feels secure in hand. I expect the SC63 will also feel secure.
> If it had a tail switch, then I might want some aggressive knurling.



That's only because AT uses a matte finish with a fine sandpaper like finish that is grippy. I don't think that's the case with the ZL.


----------



## markr6

Big ol bap between the cap and body in their photos. From past experience, it will be interesting to see what it actually looks like and what kind of variation we see.


----------



## jak

markr6 said:


> This thread got crazy! Well, we're getting close. I can't wait to try one, but wish there were more SC62w available for a little while longer in case I end up not liking the 63.


Oh gosh, I wish we were getting close. I feel like we're still at least 3 weeks out. Before Valentine's Day... if we're lucky?!? And I hope they ship my 600 HI and 63w together! (Do you not own a SC62 already? Looks like there are CW versions available on the ZL site.)



SubLGT said:


> I like it. The lack of knurling in the center is an asset, not a deficit, IMO. No more shredded pockets.
> My similarly sized Armytek Prime C1 has no knurling, and feels secure in hand. I expect the SC63 will also feel secure.
> If it had a tail switch, then I might want some aggressive knurling.


I'm with you. The times I've dropped lights, It wasn't due to a lack knurling.


----------



## psychbeat

Hmm - I'm not saying I love the smooth body but is anyone really worried about dropping it? It has a thicker tail and head + most people will run it with a clip so it's similar to a C2 or Z2 without the tail switch or grip ring. 

Seems unlikely it would make a difference besides looking better or more traditional with gnurling & being a side switch can't see it slipping. 

I've used my vintage H501W in rain & mud w gloves without a strap & don't remember it's smooth body being an issue. 

I'll probably get the angle version of this one anyways but it's really tempting me.


----------



## Nuppet

For the SC63 there is a leather holster from Victorinox, model 4.0523.3, that will fit nicely, but is too long for my SC5: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001P14OU/?tag=cpf0b6-20 or possibly this one http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B70UP6/?tag=cpf0b6-20

For the SC5 from Victorinox, model 4.0520.3, (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001P14OA/?tag=cpf0b6-20). The fit is snug and nice, but too short for the SC63.

I believe the SC600 mk III could be too thick too fit if put head first, but with body down it could work. 

I bought these from amazon.de, though.


----------



## Tachead

psychbeat said:


> Hmm - I'm not saying I love the smooth body but is anyone really worried about dropping it? It has a thicker tail and head + most people will run it with a clip so it's similar to a C2 or Z2 without the tail switch or grip ring.
> 
> Seems unlikely it would make a difference besides looking better or more traditional with gnurling & being a side switch can't see it slipping.
> 
> I've used my vintage H501W in rain & mud w gloves without a strap & don't remember it's smooth body being an issue.
> 
> I'll probably get the angle version of this one anyways but it's really tempting me.



The tactile feel and looks of a flashlight is important to a lot of people too. That's why I think a lot of people are chiming in, not necessarily about dropping it. Personally, I dont mind the ribbed look on their headlamps but, would prefer knurling, like the SC600 & SC5, on the flashlights(with a smooth area under the clip of coarse for less pocket damage).


----------



## markr6

Tachead said:


> ...would prefer knurling, like the SC600 & SC5, on the flashlights(with a smooth area under the clip of coarse for less pocket damage).



This is what I predicted and hoped to see. I was very surprised it didn't turn out to be true. I think I'm just a stickler for consistency.


----------



## Glock27

I pre-ordered an SC60w and then bought another for backup a couple days later as it was was so much better than any other production light for edc.....in every criteria but price! Pre-ordered all SC62 variants except cool white. The 62 knocked the 60 out of Best Production EDC light. 
I maintain HVAC equipment for a school district and visually inspect pumps and monitor gauges in 15 different mechanical rooms. My light comes out at least 30 times per day. I always have one on me if I'm awake. 
I pre-ordered an SC63w and will order all other 63 variants when available except CW. We shall see if the 63 knocks the 62 out of the top spot.

Random SC6X thoughts:
I see absolutely use for knurling on the body and it would be murder on pockets. When griping a 62, or 60, the primary contact points are the ribbed head and tailcap. The clip further helps to index the light and keep it from rotating.
Battery length restrictions. I never use protected cells in any of my single cell lights. If you have a good charger, you don't have to worry about overcharging. I let my Pila and Xtar chargers charge cells un-attended. I also leave my cell phones, laptops and tablets un-attended when charging. All my single cell lights have low voltage cut-off, so you don't need to worry about over discharging a cell. The argument that un-protected cells are somehow less safe in these lights and good chargers is absurd. Every protected cell has a weakness that actually scares the hell out of me. It's the pesky positive ribbon that is susceptible to shorting to either the negative case of the battery or negative bore of the tube. I think someone who is willing to spend $85 on a light shouldn't become pissed when ZL sells a high quality cells for $8. I suspect that ZebraLight could make a non pogo pin tailcap that would allow overlength cells......but we are talking about 18650 and not 18690 lights!

G27
The SC clips are awesome. I've only bent one and easily straightened it after unscrewing it from the light.


----------



## Tachead

Glock27 said:


> I pre-ordered an SC60w and then bought another for backup a couple days later as it was was so much better than any other production light for edc.....in every criteria but price! Pre-ordered all SC62 variants except cool white. The 62 knocked the 60 out of Best Production EDC light.
> I maintain HVAC equipment for a school district and visually inspect pumps and monitor gauges in 15 different mechanical rooms. My light comes out at least 30 times per day. I always have one on me if I'm awake.
> I pre-ordered an SC63w and will order all other 63 variants when available except CW. We shall see if the 63 knocks the 62 out of the top spot.
> 
> Random SC6X thoughts:
> I see absolutely use for knurling on the body and it would be murder on pockets. When griping a 62, or 60, the primary contact points are the ribbed head and tailcap. The clip further helps to index the light and keep it from rotating.
> Battery length restrictions.* I never use protected cells in any of my single cell lights. If you have a good charger, you don't have to worry about overcharging. I let my Pila and Xtar chargers charge cells un-attended. I also leave my cell phones, laptops and tablets un-attended when charging. All my single cell lights have low voltage cut-off, so you don't need to worry about over discharging a cell. The argument that un-protected cells are somehow less safe in these lights and good chargers is absurd.* Every protected cell has a weakness that actually scares the hell out of me. It's the pesky positive ribbon that is susceptible to shorting to either the negative case of the battery or negative bore of the tube. I think someone who is willing to spend $85 on a light shouldn't become pissed when ZL sells a high quality cells for $8. I suspect that ZebraLight could make a non pogo pin tailcap that would allow overlength cells......but we are talking about 18650 and not 18690 lights!
> 
> G27
> The SC clips are awesome. I've only bent one and easily straightened it after unscrewing it from the light.



Your forgetting that electronics can and do malfunction and/or fail man. Protected cells add a redundant layer of protection for both overcharge and under discharge in case a lights or chargers protection fails. Also, many PTC circuits in protected cells are made by Seiko Industries Inc. a company who has been manufacturing and designing high quality time pieces and electronics for almost 80 years. I for one trust them far more then any flashlight or charger company that has only been around for a handful of years and often have quality control issues. Protected cells also often come with a 12+ month warranty and insurance through the company where as bare cells dont come with anything and can sometimes have questionable origins(fakes, previously used, factory seconds, exc.). Most cell manufactures wont even sell bare cells to the general public so you have no guaranty that the a bare cell is even new. 

Just something to think about, the other side of the coin.

Also, I highly suggest you dont leave cells charging unattended. Especially if charging bare cells. Its your choice and your house but, run a google search and you will find many stories of burnt down houses exc. caused by that very practice. Cells can fail and combust sometimes and nothing even went wrong, just a bad cell exc.


----------



## Tachead

double


----------



## eraursls1984

Tachead said:


> ... where as bare cells dont come with anything and can sometimes have questionable origins(fakes, previously used, factory seconds, exc.).


Protected cells are just as likely (if not more likely) to fakes.


----------



## snowlover91

Tachead said:


> Your forgetting that electronics can and do malfunction and/or fail man. Protected cells add a redundant layer of protection for both overcharge and under discharge in case a lights or chargers protection fails. Also, many PTC circuits in protected cells are made by Seiko Industries Inc. a company who has been manufacturing and designing high quality time pieces and electronics for almost 80 years. I for one trust them far more then any flashlight or charger company that has only been around for a handful of years and often have quality control issues. Protected cells also often come with a 12+ month warranty and insurance through the company where as bare cells dont come with anything and can sometimes have questionable origins(fakes, previously used, factory seconds, exc.). Most cell manufactures wont even sell bare cells to the general public so you have no guaranty that the a bare cell is even new.
> 
> Just something to think about, the other side of the coin.
> 
> Also, I highly suggest you dont leave cells charging unattended. Especially if charging bare cells. Its your choice and your house but, run a google search and you will find many stories of burnt down houses exc. caused by that very practice. Cells can fail and combust sometimes and nothing even went wrong, just a bad cell exc.



Certainly they can and do fail but there is a risk with anything in life. The minute you get in your car you could have a wreck, in fact statistic probabilities for this are quite high some research suggests 1 in 470 odds of being in a car accident. You could get struck by lightning, get a laptop with a defective battery that overheats or shorts out, have a cell phone that simply catches on fire, etc. Risk is there every single day all around us yet this doesn't stop us from using our cell phones, computers or cars. 

Furthermore unprotected cells are are no more dangerous than protected imo. Protected cells have a wire strip going down the side, if the wrapper peels any (I had a Nitecore battery do this) it can short the battery out. If you don't carefully inspect your batteries, as I often do, it could easily be overlooked, put into the light and cause major issues. Protected doesn't mean safe, it helps prevent overcharging and over-discharging which are both easily prevented with practical safety steps. Unprotected cells don't have the metal wire down the end of the cell so no risk of a short there if the wrapper peels. Protected cells can also short via the protection circuit, ironically, as it's only surrounded by a thin spacer which if damaged would cause issues also. My point is lithium batteries carry risks but if practical and common sense safety techniques are used there shouldn't be any problems with using unprotected cells. In fact I would argue they can be safer in the hands of a well informed user because he will be more careful versus someone using a protected battery who may rely too much on the protection circuit and be careless.

I for one welcome the change and see no reason ZL would switch back since they're selling the lights faster than they can make them.


----------



## nbp

C'mon guys. Argue cell safety somewhere else. Some of these posts don't even mention the light in discussion. We're driving off the road again.


----------



## snowlover91

Should be shipping notices going out within the next few days for those outside the US if everything is still on track for the 31st. I believe there is a Chinese holiday coming in early February, if so I wonder if that will effect the shipments any?


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Should be shipping notices going out within the next few days for those outside the US if everything is still on track for the 31st. I believe there is a Chinese holiday coming in early February, if so I wonder if that will effect the shipments any?



I think there's a holiday every 4 days. Man, the US needs to get on board with that


----------



## snowlover91

Just got a reply back from ZL, I asked them about the shipping if it may be delayed or not. They said its on track for international orders to begin shipping around the 31st with US orders about 10 days thereafter. Those outside the US should get shipping numbers pretty soon!


----------



## ozzie_c_cobblepot

What is the optimal length? Personally I think the SC33 is way too short, the SC52 is borderline, and the SC62 is closer to perfect. Maybe the 63 is actually perfect for length?


----------



## UTV2TiVo

Chinese new year (Lunar new year) is Feb 8th I think. Lot's of places shut down the whole week.


----------



## scs

UTV2TiVo said:


> Chinese new year (Lunar new year) is Feb 8th I think. Lot's of places shut down the whole week.



More like the entire month!


----------



## snowlover91

scs said:


> More like the entire month!



I read somewhere that it's February 1-14th but not sure. Anyhow this shouldn't effect the initial shipment but may delay subsequent shipments for those who didn't preorder or who preordered too late. Anyone here who preordered the first few days it was released and international? I would think you should see shipping notices tomorrow or Saturday possibly.


----------



## MarkF786

Working in cyber security, the best thing about Chinese New Year is all the state-sponsored cyber attacks stop for a week and give my team a break.


----------



## fnsooner

^^^Does this make them vulnerable for attack?


----------



## Tachead

fnsooner said:


> ^^^Does this make them vulnerable for attack?



Lol, as we drool over their flashlights


----------



## jak

ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> What is the optimal length? Personally I think the SC33 is way too short, the SC52 is borderline, and the SC62 is closer to perfect. Maybe the 63 is actually perfect for length?


Definitely varies from person to person on individual tastes... but I really like the SC62. I didn't really have a problem with the 52 when that was my primary light, so I think the 63 will be beyond dandy.


----------



## snowlover91

Just received a reply from ZL I asked them to confirm if the pogo pins were something they would continue using. They responded that the SC63 and MK3 series would keep it since the driver and higher output requires it and future models they plan to release with even more output would also require this, specifically the MK3 Plus model they recently added to the spreadsheet. They did also mention that their headlamps they plan to continue using springs for now since there are no plans to increase output or redesign the drivers at this time. Hope that info is helpful!


----------



## psychbeat

Thanks for the info Snow! 
Kinda bummed they're not upping the output on the headlamp version or new drivers/emitters/tail cap. 
Seems like they'll have to on the XHP50 HiCRI HL - if that's really happening


----------



## just like me

jak said:


> Definitely varies from person to person on individual tastes... but I really like the SC62.



I recently ordered the SC62c on sale. _Its killing me that more than 36 hours has passed and there is no indication of anything shipping,_ just an automated email confirming the order. I am annoyed I didn't also order the SC52w. I wanted the SC5w, but its out of stock for the second time. I want to see how loved the SC600 mkIII is before thinking about ordering that. I'm not keen on being an early adopter, so I'll say the same about SC63 and the expected variants... wait and see what expert flashaholics in the field have to rave about it.

---
edit: now, 120 hours have tickerd away... more than five days and three full business days and no ship notice. I suppose fulfillment of all the rabid Zebralight fanatics preorders is keeping them very busy. Meanwhile, the new cells I ordered at the same time have arrived and sit here lonely and thus far completely useless.


----------



## JKolmo

Shipping notice for SC63w received (non US order)!


----------



## run4jc

Well, I finally broke down and ordered an SC63w. The SC62w has been a consistent favorite for the past year. I actually like the 'new' look of the SC63w. Now the waiting begins....


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Just received a reply from ZL I asked them to confirm if the pogo pins were something they would continue using. They responded that the SC63 and MK3 series would keep it since the driver and higher output requires it and future models they plan to release with even more output would also require this, specifically the MK3 Plus model they recently added to the spreadsheet. They did also mention that their headlamps they plan to continue using springs for now since there are no plans to increase output or redesign the drivers at this time. Hope that info is helpful!



I sort of miss the traditional spring, but we need to give these pogo pins a chance. Since they will be using these going forward, they can only get better if any changes are made.


----------



## snowlover91

JKolmo said:


> Shipping notice for SC63w received (non US order)!


Awesome when is the expected delivery day?


----------



## markr6

JKolmo said:


> Shipping notice for SC63w received (non US order)!




:rock::rock::rock::rock:


----------



## JKolmo

snowlover91 said:


> Awesome when is the expected delivery day?



No ETA indication. ZL usually takes 1-8 weeks to arrive from China. Eager to get it. By the time it arrives I'm prolly anxiously waiting for the hcri SC600 III fd+ though...[emoji3]


----------



## Tachead

JKolmo said:


> No ETA indication. ZL usually takes 1-8 weeks to arrive from China. Eager to get it. By the time it arrives I'm prolly anxiously waiting for the hcri SC600 III fd+ though...[emoji3]



Where are you located? Any trouble with the free shipping option from China? I always worry if the package was lost, would it be covered/insured? But, the DHL cost me a fortune on my last order. I am in Canada.


----------



## JKolmo

I'm in Europe (Sweden). So far all of my free shipping ZLs have arrived safely. Big difference in how long it takes though.


----------



## ozzie_c_cobblepot

jak said:


> Definitely varies from person to person on individual tastes... but I really like the SC62. I didn't really have a problem with the 52 when that was my primary light, so I think the 63 will be beyond dandy.



Exactly what I'm thinking. More formally, the "optimum" length is really more a range than an exact value, and the 62, 63, and 52 are all within. 52 at the small end, 63 at the big.

It's really quite interesting how the MKii is just a little bit larger than the 62, yet feels like MUCH larger. And it's only 5mm larger at the head.


----------



## MarkF786

I ordered an SC62w and received it today; now I see what all the hype is about. It's so small for an 18650 light, and it has the great ZL UI.

I canceled my order for the SC63w since the SC62w should fit my needs (and hold me over until all the reviews on the SC63w start rolling in).

But in the meanwhile, I ordered a SC52w since I suspect it will be easier to carry than my SC5w.

ZebraLight has become my favorite brand. Now I feel like selling many of my other flashlights


----------



## bkolb69

JKolmo said:


> No ETA indication. ZL usually takes 1-8 weeks to arrive from China. Eager to get it. By the time it arrives I'm prolly anxiously waiting for the hcri SC600 III fd+ though...[emoji3]



I didn't know they were making these lights in China. I was under the impression that they were making these in Texas. Can you verify please?


----------



## snowlover91

bkolb69 said:


> I didn't know they were making these lights in China. I was under the impression that they were making these in Texas. Can you verify please?



They're designed and based out of the US but they make/assemble the lights in China. Similar to how Apple is based in the US but makes most of their products in China.


----------



## snowlover91

MarkF786 said:


> I ordered an SC62w and received it today; now I see what all the hype is about. It's so small for an 18650 light, and it has the great ZL UI.
> 
> I canceled my order for the SC63w since the SC62w should fit my needs (and hold me over until all the reviews on the SC63w start rolling in).
> 
> But in the meanwhile, I ordered a SC52w since I suspect it will be easier to carry than my SC5w.
> 
> *ZebraLight has become my favorite brand. Now I feel like selling many of my other flashlights *



I know exactly what you mean I find myself looking at getting all the main Zebralights like the SC63, MK3 HI, SC5 (have two!) and the SC32 for all battery types. The UI is excellent and their lights are well made, durable and the NW tint options with increasing CRI are tough to beat!


----------



## Shiftyfive

bkolb69 said:


> I didn't know they were making these lights in China. I was under the impression that they were making these in Texas. Can you verify please?



They are currently manufactured in China. ZL is in the process of building out a manufacturing facility in Irving, TX to supply north america. The China facility will continue to supply the overseas orders.


----------



## Lumencrazy

bkolb69 said:


> I didn't know they were making these lights in China. I was under the impression that they were making these in Texas. Can you verify please?



If you want something made find someone who knows how to make it. We have no large-scale flashlight design/manufacturing expertise left in this country. The led’s, lithium-ion batteries, drivers, protection circuits, TIR optics, are all manufactured overseas. We make hamburgers and junk food.


----------



## recDNA

Weathertech Car Mats!


----------



## Lumencrazy

recDNA said:


> Weathertech Car Mats!



I stand corrected.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

Shiftyfive said:


> They are currently manufactured in China. ZL is in the process of building out a manufacturing facility in Irving, TX to supply north america. The China facility will continue to supply the overseas orders.



That's good! That would be downright convenient.


----------



## fnsooner

Shiftyfive said:


> They are currently manufactured in China. ZL is in the process of building out a manufacturing facility in Irving, TX to supply north america. The China facility will continue to supply the overseas orders.


Zebralight has been saying this for several years. They can’t even repair their lights without sending them to China. When they build a factory in the States, I will believe it then.

I have no problem with the way ZebraLight does things now. We get an excellent product fairly inexpensively. I doubt they will ever build a manufacturing facility here. Maybe though.


----------



## eraursls1984

Shiftyfive said:


> They are currently manufactured in China. ZL is in the process of building out a manufacturing facility in Irving, TX to supply north america. The China facility will continue to supply the overseas orders.


I wonder how much that would effect the price?


----------



## snowlover91

Shiftyfive said:


> They are currently manufactured in China. ZL is in the process of building out a manufacturing facility in Irving, TX to supply north america. The China facility will continue to supply the overseas orders.



I haven't seen or heard anything about this, was this something they publicly stated?


----------



## fnsooner

snowlover91 said:


> I haven't seen or heard anything about this, was this something they publicly stated?


There have been many references to this subject over the years. I have been told during correspondence with them that they planned on moving to a manufacturing facility in the US. It may be something that they would really like to do but for whatever reason haven’t. I really don’t know.



ZebraLight said:


> We'll move to a new location in Las Colinas next week. The new manufacturing facility will house cutting edge 5-axis machining centers, robots, etc., and above all, a manufacturing system based on a concept we believe that's move advanced than today's robot cells or FMS.


----------



## snowlover91

fnsooner said:


> There have been many references to this subject over the years. I have been told during correspondence with them that they planned on moving to a manufacturing facility in the US. It may be something that they would really like to do but for whatever reason haven’t. I really don’t know.




Interesting. I wonder why they stopped posting over 3 years, they used to be pretty active on here? Also haven't seen anything since so I wonder if they actually did move in to the new facility or not.


----------



## fnsooner

snowlover91 said:


> Interesting. I wonder why they stopped posting over 3 years, they used to be pretty active on here? Also haven't seen anything since so I wonder if they actually did move in to the new facility or not.



Someone, I think markr6, did a little sleuthing a year or two ago using their current mailing address and found a picture of the place. It appeared to be some sort of small business office/shop in an industrial area. It looks like more of a shipping and receiving type set up.

I also figure that if there was some sort of shop with basic tools, they would repair lights there rather than send them to China. There are a lot of gory details and warts running a business. I make no judgment. They have treated me well


----------



## esurt

Couple of questions on the SC63:
- Does any one have any idea what the lux/throw of the new SC63 is? The specs on website give lumens and hotspot/spill angles but nothing regarding lux/throw.
- I saw that the SC600 does not support protected cells, is it confirmed that the SC63 does support protected cells?

I'm looking for a good 18650 all-rounder, that both as a good spill but still has a somewhat decent throw. I discarded P12GT as having too tight a beam profile and was looking at the new Fenix PD32 XP-L HI based model. The Fenix has a throw of 240m but only has 60 deg spill (less than PD35 which has 68). Having seen that the SC62 is one of the most highly recommended lights here in this forum and the zebralights have a good spill I started to consider getting the SC63 instead of the Fenix but I'm unsure what throw the SC63 has, along with the what impact the new emitter (which i assume is the HD version, not HI version in SC63) will have on this.

thanks!!


----------



## light-wolff

esurt said:


> - I saw that the SC600 does not support protected cells, is it confirmed that the SC63 does support protected cells?


If their website is correct: "Battery: One 18650 size (i.e. 65mm long)" means: no protected cells.
I'been EDCing ZLs since the 1st SC600 came out. 3 types of SC600, currently SC62. Always used unprotected high-quality cells. Never had any problems. SC63 preordered.

Edit: saw this just now, the battery discussion thread is here.


----------



## fnsooner

esurt said:


> Couple of questions on the SC63:
> - Does any one have any idea what the lux/throw of the new SC63 is? The specs on website give lumens and hotspot/spill angles but nothing regarding lux/throw.
> 
> I'm looking for a good 18650 all-rounder, that both as a good spill but still has a somewhat decent throw. I discarded P12GT as having too tight a beam profile and was looking at the new Fenix PD32 XP-L HI based model. The Fenix has a throw of 240m but only has 60 deg spill (less than PD35 which has 68). Having seen that the SC62 is one of the most highly recommended lights here in this forum and the zebralights have a good spill I started to consider getting the SC63 instead of the Fenix but I'm unsure what throw the SC63 has, along with the what impact the new emitter (which i assume is the HD version, not HI version in SC63) will have on this.
> 
> thanks!!


ZebraLight has never given the lux values as far as I know. I would say the SC63 would throw about the same as the SC62 but no one knows yet because no one has one yet. Selfbuilt’s review has a chart comparing the lux on flashlights that are similar to the SC62. Fenix PD35:9500, ZL SC62:7500, Nitecore P12:11,600. LINK

You also might consider the SC600 MK III HI if you want a Zebralight with some throw. This light is also not in any ones hands yet. There should be a ton more info on both the SC63 and the SC600 MK III HI in the next few weeks as people start receiving them.


----------



## esurt

fnsooner said:


> ZebraLight has never given the lux values as far as I know. I would say the SC63 would throw about the same as the SC62 but no one knows yet because no one has one yet. Selfbuilt’s review has a chart comparing the lux on flashlights that are similar to the SC62. Fenix PD35:9500, ZL SC62:7500, Nitecore P12:11,600. LINK
> 
> You also might consider the SC600 MK III HI if you want a Zebralight with some throw. This light is also not in any ones hands yet. There should be a ton more info on both the SC63 and the SC600 MK III HI in the next few weeks as people start receiving them.



Thanks, just the information I was looking for.

Given these light aren't out yet, rather than rush to order a P32 or SC63 before there are any reviews, i think I might start my collection with something super portable like an Olight S1 and then complement it with a 18650 once these new light are out and reviewed.


----------



## Shiftyfive

snowlover91 said:


> I haven't seen or heard anything about this, was this something they publicly stated?



I'm not aware of anything publicly stated. I ordered an SC52 back in Nov/Dec. Something was flagged on my credit card, so they called me to validate my order. During our discussion, I discovered that they were 5 mins away from my office in Irving. He offered to let my just swing by and pick it up, instead of waiting for it to be shipped. When I got there and he found out it was my first ZL purchase, he invited me inside and gave me a tutorial on the UI and even showed me the brand new MKIII. They had just moved into this building a few weeks earlier and he mentioned their plans for manufacturing and that the room we were standing in would eventually be a small showroom. He was really passionate about their products.


----------



## snowlover91

Shiftyfive said:


> I'm not aware of anything publicly stated. I ordered an SC52 back in Nov/Dec. Something was flagged on my credit card, so they called me to validate my order. During our discussion, I discovered that they were 5 mins away from my office in Irving. He offered to let my just swing by and pick it up, instead of waiting for it to be shipped. When I got there and he found out it was my first ZL purchase, he invited me inside and gave me a tutorial on the UI and even showed me the brand new MKIII. They had just moved into this building a few weeks earlier and he mentioned their plans for manufacturing and that the room we were standing in would eventually be a small showroom. He was really passionate about their products.



Hmmm interesting what did you think of the MK3? Did he say how soon manufacturing might begin and how it would help?


----------



## Shiftyfive

snowlover91 said:


> Hmmm interesting what did you think of the MK3? Did he say how soon manufacturing might begin and how it would help?



Keep in mind that I'm a newbie, but I was impressed with it and was ready to order one when I got home that night. I ended up pre-ordering the SC63 because I felt the size would be better suited for me. I did not ask him any details on the manufacturing part, but the new space was very sparse and did not appear to be very far along in the build out. Just said that it had always been a part of the business plan. You could tell they were still in the process of moving. Computers and phones just set up on tables etc. He did say that despite creating a showroom, they wouldn't be able to do retail sales out of it due to zoning requirements.


----------



## snowlover91

Shiftyfive said:


> Keep in mind that I'm a newbie, but I was impressed with it and was ready to order one when I got home that night. I ended up pre-ordering the SC63 because I felt the size would be better suited for me. I did not ask him any details on the manufacturing part, but the new space was very sparse and did not appear to be very far along in the build out. Just said that it had always been a part of the business plan. You could tell they were still in the process of moving. Computers and phones just set up on tables etc. He did say that despite creating a showroom, they wouldn't be able to do retail sales out of it due to zoning requirements.



Cool keep us updated if you hear anything else from them!

btw anyone else who lives international received a shipping notification? I know one person posted that they did but haven't seen anyone else who has.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

Look what I found: https://www.google.com/maps/@32.870...UBlJIK2MnEHpGcOEBA!2e0!7i13312!8i6656!6m1!1e1


----------



## Tachead

ateupwithgolf said:


> Look what I found: https://www.google.com/maps/@32.870...UBlJIK2MnEHpGcOEBA!2e0!7i13312!8i6656!6m1!1e1



Nice, hopefully they will start repairing and shipping their lights from there for North American customers(Canada, USA, exc.). That would be a lot better for us Canadian customers especially as shipping from China is expensive and/or takes a longtime.


----------



## markr6

Lumencrazy said:


> We make hamburgers and junk food.



LOL! OK plus the car mats. That's what we've been reduced to.


----------



## recDNA

snowlover91 said:


> Cool keep us updated if you hear anything else from them!
> 
> btw anyone else who lives international received a shipping notification? I know one person posted that they did but haven't seen anyone else who has.


Hey we grow more food than we consume. Few countries do that


markr6 said:


> LOL! OK plus the car mats. That's what we've been reduced to.


----------



## snowlover91

As an update I read on another website that ZL began shipping international orders Friday of last week and should receive the US shipment ~February 10th and begin shipping them out from there. Depending on where you live and shipping speed most in the US should receive their lights (if you preordered early) between February 12-16th.


----------



## markr6

Thanks for the update! I have more patience and lower expectations this go around so I can wait another week or so.


----------



## Flashgas

snowlover91 said:


> As an update I read on another website that ZL began shipping international orders Friday of last week and should receive the US shipment ~February 10th and begin shipping them out from there. Depending on where you live and shipping speed most in the US should receive their lights (if you preordered early) between February 12-16th.


With the holiday ongoing until the 14th? I cannot see how shipping from China will happen during this time as the country seems to shut down completely. My only hope is to be in time with my preorder to be in the first shipment as anticipation builds.


----------



## snowlover91

Flashgas said:


> With the holiday ongoing until the 14th? I cannot see how shipping from China will happen during this time as the country seems to shut down completely. My only hope is to be in time with my preorder to be in the first shipment as anticipation builds.



As I understand it the lights ship from China to the US either on a boat or by plane and it takes 10-12 days to get here. The same day they began shipping international orders (around January 29th) was when the boat/plane with the US orders left. In theory this should arrive February 8-10th in the US which is about when they said the US orders should ship. However subsequent batches of these lights will probably be a little delayed due to the Chinese holiday, the first batch looks on schedule though.


----------



## Lumencrazy

But mommy I want a cookie right now!!!!. :hairpull:


----------



## jswe

I will buy it when a high CRI version is available!


----------



## markr6

My SC63w shipped! I will have it Saturday. It usually takes 2-3 days. I'm not sure why Priority mail is taking 4 days for a rather short distance, but I've stopped trying to figure out USPS.

p.s. In the ZL 12v battery thread, I mentioned the following...

Zebralight updated the product spreadsheet. SC63/SC63w now says in the notes section:

_*"pogo pin or spring contacts, unprotected only"*

_So, will there be two options? I doubt it. A change back to springs in a newer version?

Correct me if it always said this, but I don't recall seeing this note and believe it's a new note.


----------



## Aldiggi

So before I order my SC63w are the Panasonic batteries they sell the way to go?


----------



## markr6

Aldiggi said:


> So before I order my SC63w are the Panasonic batteries they sell the way to go?



I vote YES. NCR18650GA is pretty much the way to go for most lights IMO. When you get into heavily driven, custom lights, there may be some better options. But for the SC63, you can't beat the NCR18650GA for the performance and price.


----------



## Aldiggi

markr6 said:


> I vote YES. NCR18650GA is pretty much the way to go for most lights IMO. When you get into heavily driven, custom lights, there may be some better options. But for the SC63, you can't beat the NCR18650 for the performance and price.


Thanks markr6.


----------



## jak

markr6 said:


> Zebralight updated the product spreadsheet. SC63/SC63w now says in the notes section:
> 
> _*"pogo pin or spring contacts, unprotected only"*
> 
> _So, will there be two options? I doubt it. A change back to springs in a newer version?
> 
> Correct me if it always said this, but I don't recall seeing this note and believe it's a new note.


I believe this was added just last night. (My Google Docs used to highlight the cells that changed, but it doesn't seem to do that anymore. I have to hunt for the changes myself.)

When did you order yours? I haven't received a shipping notice yet, and I live so close to ZL I usually get it next day.


----------



## markr6

jak said:


> I believe this was added just last night. (My Google Docs used to highlight the cells that changed, but it doesn't seem to do that anymore. I have to hunt for the changes myself.)
> 
> When did you order yours? I haven't received a shipping notice yet, and I live so close to ZL I usually get it next day.



Yeah no indication of what changed, I hate that. I ordered mine on 1/1/16. It says it will be delivered Saturday, but I have a feeling it will show early on Friday.


----------



## jak

markr6 said:


> Yeah no indication of what changed, I hate that. I ordered mine on 1/1/16. It says it will be delivered Saturday, but I have a feeling it will show early on Friday.


Sent you a PM, so many questions about your shipment!


----------



## gunga

Oooh ooh. Will be nice to get real feedback on the sc63. Looking forward to everyone's impressions as I wait longingly for mine.


----------



## snowlover91

markr6 said:


> My SC63w shipped! I will have it Saturday. It usually takes 2-3 days. I'm not sure why Priority mail is taking 4 days for a rather short distance, but I've stopped trying to figure out USPS.
> 
> p.s. In the ZL 12v battery thread, I mentioned the following...
> 
> Zebralight updated the product spreadsheet. SC63/SC63w now says in the notes section:
> 
> _*"pogo pin or spring contacts, unprotected only"*
> 
> _So, will there be two options? I doubt it. A change back to springs in a newer version?
> 
> Correct me if it always said this, but I don't recall seeing this note and believe it's a new note.



Thats definitely new as before it said pogo pins like it does for all the other models. It was obviously changed but for what reason? Someone needs to send them an email! I sent them like 5-6 emails the past few days asking when my order would ship and general questions about their products so they're sick of hearing from me haha.


----------



## markr6

I just realized I screwed myself by shipping to work!! USPS is saying a Saturday delivery, so I'll have to wait until Monday. But we're closed Monday...so I won't have it until Tuesday 

Hoping for an early delivery, but I doubt it.


----------



## Fireclaw18

markr6 said:


> I just realized I screwed myself by shipping to work!! USPS is saying a Saturday delivery, so I'll have to wait until Monday. But we're closed Monday...so I won't have it until Tuesday
> 
> Hoping for an early delivery, but I doubt it.



Haha... same.

Tuesday it is!


----------



## ateupwithgolf

markr6 said:


> I just realized I screwed myself by shipping to work!! USPS is saying a Saturday delivery, so I'll have to wait until Monday. But we're closed Monday...so I won't have it until Tuesday
> 
> Hoping for an early delivery, but I doubt it.



Ouch! Gonna be a long weekend! Mine says Saturday too, but last shipment came a day early so I'm hopeful for Friday.


----------



## snowlover91

Mine says Friday and I'll be out of town with my wife from Friday through Sunday... However if they deliver it in 2 days like usual with priority mail I should in theory get it Thursday... If not it'll be a long weekend.


----------



## tonkem

everyone that has shipping notices, when did you order? I ordered 1/13, no shipping notice yet.


----------



## snowlover91

tonkem said:


> everyone that has shipping notices, when did you order? I ordered 1/13, no shipping notice yet.



Mine was placed January 1st, you might have to wait for the second batch because the preorders sold quickly. The second batch should come late February after the Chinese New Year ends and they get some more in.


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Mine was placed January 1st, you might have to wait for the second batch because the preorders sold quickly. The second batch should come late February after the Chinese New Year ends and they get some more in.



Same here...Jan 1


----------



## LGT

Considering buying one of these, but I already have an SC600w Mklll. Other then the price and dimensions of two, they seem identical. The output and runtime looks to be about the same.
Am I missing something?


----------



## snowlover91

LGT said:


> Considering buying one of these, but I already have an SC600w Mklll. Other then the price and dimensions of two, they seem identical. The output and runtime looks to be about the same.
> Am I missing something?



The SC63 is lighter at 1.3oz versus 2.35 on the MK3. The head is much larger on the MK3 at 1.2 inches in diameter versus .96 in diameter on the SC63. The SC63 is also shorter at 3.64 inches versus 3.8 inches on the MK3. The throw will be less on the SC63 but otherwise they're pretty similar. The SC63 is going to be smaller and much lighter for EDC use though so if that's your primary purpose then it may be a better choice.


----------



## Tachead

snowlover91 said:


> The SC63 is lighter at 1.3oz versus 2.35 on the MK3. The head is much larger on the MK3 at 1.2 inches in diameter versus .96 in diameter on the SC63. The SC63 is also shorter at 3.64 inches versus 3.8 inches on the MK3. The throw will be less on the SC63 but otherwise they're pretty similar. The SC63 is going to be smaller and much lighter for EDC use though so if that's your primary purpose then it may be a better choice.



Also, because of the lower mass(heatsinking) it will not be as good for sustained runtime at the higher output levels(H1 & H2). It will heat up faster causing the PID to kick in and reduce output faster. Its a tradeoff, better heatsinking, more throw, and a larger spill vs more floody beam, lighter, and more pocketable.


----------



## LGT

Tachead said:


> Also, because of the lower mass(heatsinking) it will not be as good for sustained runtime at the higher output levels(H1 & H2). It will heat up faster causing the PID to kick in and reduce output faster. Its a tradeoff, better heatsinking, more throw, and a larger spill vs more floody beam, lighter, and more pocketable.


 Thanks. Good information. I'll stick with my sc600. Work outdoors and at night somtimes, the 600 seems to fit my needs more then the sc63.


----------



## jak

I also ordered Jan 1, but have not received a shipping notice. I suspect it's because I ordered an SC600 HI at the same time, and maybe they're trying to fulfill with one shipment? IDK. 

I've had stuff shipped to work, only to learn it will be on a Saturday. That's so annoying.


----------



## snowlover91

Jak, I ordered both the SC63w and MK3 HI together also and have received a shipping notice. What shipping method did you get? Mine was priority not sure if that makes a difference or not.


----------



## jak

snowlover91 said:


> Jak, I ordered both the SC63w and MK3 HI together also and have received a shipping notice. What shipping method did you get? Mine was priority not sure if that makes a difference or not.


When did you order? I did the normal free shipping that I always use when I order from them.

I contacted them today asking when I can expect it to be shipped and got a depressing reply of 2 to 3 weeks. What a freakin' bummer.


----------



## snowlover91

jak said:


> When did you order? I did the normal free shipping that I always use when I order from them.
> 
> I contacted them today asking when I can expect it to be shipped and got a depressing reply of 2 to 3 weeks. What a freakin' bummer.



I ordered January 1st. When I initially contacted them asking when my order would be shipped they said 2-3 weeks and I think they thought I was inquiring about if I currently bought one. I then emailed them back with my order number and they said they misunderstood and thought I was talking about a new order being placed and that my preorder would ship out this week, which it did. It could be the same with yours also, try emailing them back with your order number and see what they say. Also it seems like they ship the priority mail first and then within a day or two they ship the free shipping options, I seem to remember this with the MK3 release as well.


----------



## KITROBASKIN

Tachead said:


> Also, because of the lower mass(heatsinking) it will not be as good for sustained runtime at the higher output levels(H1 & H2). It will heat up faster causing the PID to kick in and reduce output faster. Its a tradeoff, better heatsinking, more throw, and a larger spill vs more floody beam, lighter, and more pocketable.



More pocketable? What is that supposed to mean?

Do you have any data that affirms your contention that there is a large difference in sustained brightness between the SC600 and the SC63? It is the ability to shed the heat that makes these flashlights run longer on the higher modes. Additional mass will slow the heat build-up initially, but once it's hot, the heat's got to go. That can be achieved by increased surface area (larger flashlight, more fins) or a more efficient path for the heat to move (conduction, air movement)

There are members here who do this stuff for a living. Maybe they can contribute.


----------



## snowlover91

KITROBASKIN said:


> More pocketable? What is that supposed to mean?
> 
> Do you have any data that affirms your contention that there is a large difference in sustained brightness between the SC600 and the SC63? It is the ability to shed the heat that makes these flashlights run longer on the higher modes. Additional mass will slow the heat build-up initially, but once it's hot, the heat's got to go. That can be achieved by increased surface area (larger flashlight, more fins) or a more efficient path for the heat to move (conduction, air movement)
> 
> There are members here who do this stuff for a living. Maybe they can contribute.



According to Selfbuilt's review of the SC62 he stated the following: 

"This results in some obvious differences – due to the smaller head, the SC62 won't throw as far as the SC600-II. Similarly, *due to the reduced mass for heatsinking, you can expect the PID thermal regulation feature to drop output more quickly on the H1 and H2A modes of the SC62/H600/H602 (compared to the original SC600-II, which uses the same PID algorithm)."*


----------



## jak

snowlover91 said:


> I ordered January 1st. When I initially contacted them asking when my order would be shipped they said 2-3 weeks and I think they thought I was inquiring about if I currently bought one. I then emailed them back with my order number and they said they misunderstood and thought I was talking about a new order being placed and that my preorder would ship out this week, which it did. It could be the same with yours also, try emailing them back with your order number and see what they say. Also it seems like they ship the priority mail first and then within a day or two they ship the free shipping options, I seem to remember this with the MK3 release as well.


Oh gosh, that would be great. I sent a response to them. Your suggestion sounds plausible on account of there being no record (order number) with my initial inquiry.


----------



## lachesis

I ordered later, around January 27th. I emailed them (including my order number) and they said 2-3 weeks (and graciously offered to let me cancel for a refund - as if ). Ah well, just need to mark the calendar and forget about it.


----------



## KITROBASKIN

snowlover91 said:


> According to Selfbuilt's review of the SC62 he stated the following:
> 
> "This results in some obvious differences – due to the smaller head, the SC62 won't throw as far as the SC600-II. Similarly, *due to the reduced mass for heatsinking, you can expect the PID thermal regulation feature to drop output more quickly on the H1 and H2A modes of the SC62/H600/H602 (compared to the original SC600-II, which uses the same PID algorithm)."*



Selfbuilt is certainly a valuable asset and my appreciation matches that of many others here on CandlePowerForums. In fact, I have sent him money through PayPal to help in a small way for his efforts. Hopefully more people who use his information would do the same.

You apparently do not have any data to support your and Selfbuilt's assertion that the difference in SUSTAINED output between the SC600's and the SC63's is substantial. I am totally OK with anyone proving me wrong. 

Selfbuilt was kind enough to test the effect of conduction via the human hand with the PID electronics in a ZebraLight. However, he did not test where it matters; in the field, and instead used a warm office hand in his test. 

Selfbuilt was kind enough to evaluate a souped-up NiteCore Tube made by an admirable modder here on CPF. Selfbuilt did not test extensively enough, out of practicality, the reliability of that flashlight, which turned out to be not very good, my impression. Selfbuilt also made (I believe) the comment, perhaps like your quote from him, that the modded Tube was brighter and had more throw. However, if you looked at his excellent graphs, the throw was rated at about 3 feet more after modification. Substantially more throw? I think not. 

If reviewers want to keep on getting products sent to them without paying, then they need to tread that fine line between credibilty and promotion for promotion's sake, seems like. Selfbuilt is one of the best, one opinion.

My point is, internet commentary is just so-much-talk unless there is repeatable evidence to back it up. And that's OK as long as one doesn't take oneself too seriously.


----------



## Flashgas

lachesis said:


> I ordered later, around January 27th. I emailed them (including my order number) and they said 2-3 weeks (and graciously offered to let me cancel for a refund - as if ). Ah well, just need to mark the calendar and forget about it.


Sent an email as well last night before reading this. Waiting on a reply but it looks like I'll be marking the calendar also.


----------



## snowlover91

KITROBASKIN said:


> Selfbuilt is certainly a valuable asset and my appreciation matches that of many others here on CandlePowerForums. In fact, I have sent him money through PayPal to help in a small way for his efforts. Hopefully more people who use his information would do the same.
> 
> You apparently do not have any data to support your and Selfbuilt's assertion that the difference in SUSTAINED output between the SC600's and the SC63's is substantial. I am totally OK with anyone proving me wrong.
> 
> Selfbuilt was kind enough to test the effect of conduction via the human hand with the PID electronics in a ZebraLight. However, he did not test where it matters; in the field, and instead used a warm office hand in his test.
> 
> Selfbuilt was kind enough to evaluate a souped-up NiteCore Tube made by an admirable modder here on CPF. Selfbuilt did not test extensively enough, out of practicality, the reliability of that flashlight, which turned out to be not very good, my impression. Selfbuilt also made (I believe) the comment, perhaps like your quote from him, that the modded Tube was brighter and had more throw. However, if you looked at his excellent graphs, the throw was rated at about 3 feet more after modification. Substantially more throw? I think not.
> 
> If reviewers want to keep on getting products sent to them without paying, then they need to tread that fine line between credibilty and promotion for promotion's sake, seems like. Selfbuilt is one of the best, one opinion.
> 
> My point is, internet commentary is just so-much-talk unless there is repeatable evidence to back it up. And that's OK as long as one doesn't take oneself too seriously.



I wasn't the one who made the claim about the heatsinking but was adding commentary to what Tachead had posted. If you look at the runtime graphs in his reviews you'll see that the SC62 reviewed drops down to a lower level versus the MK2. His runtime graphs illustrate this quite well, he did them with no fan cooling. I was simply adding to what Tachead originally posted about the extra thermal mass of the MK2 helping to promote longer runtimes at higher levels. His runtime for the MK2 was only about 121 minutes whereas the SC62 was about 160-170 minutes, I don't remember the exact number but a significant difference. I don't have the equipment to test these types of things but for those who do and what I've read it seems as if the MK2 does hold a higher sustained output and for longer. This results in shorter runtime on H1.


----------



## markr6

markr6 said:


> I just realized I screwed myself by shipping to work!! USPS is saying a Saturday delivery, so I'll have to wait until Monday. But we're closed Monday...so I won't have it until Tuesday
> 
> Hoping for an early delivery, but I doubt it.



Updated delivery to TOMORROW! Can't wait!!


----------



## Tachead

KITROBASKIN said:


> More pocketable? What is that supposed to mean?
> 
> Do you have any data that affirms your contention that there is a large difference in sustained brightness between the SC600 and the SC63? It is the ability to shed the heat that makes these flashlights run longer on the higher modes. Additional mass will slow the heat build-up initially, but once it's hot, the heat's got to go. That can be achieved by increased surface area (larger flashlight, more fins) or a more efficient path for the heat to move (conduction, air movement)
> 
> There are members here who do this stuff for a living. Maybe they can contribute.



It means just what it sounds like. Lighter and smaller, more pocket friendly. 

No data is required although there are plenty of reviews of the older models that illustrate this if you wish to look them up. It is basic physics. An object with higher mass and a higher surface area, with all else being equal(both lights are the same aluminum), will always be able to absorb and dissipate heat more efficiently. I should add that even with the cooling fins, these small flashlights arent particularly good a dissipating heat when driven hard(hence the need for thermal regulation). 

Here is the H600Fd MKIII running outside in -8C ambient temperature. As you can see the PID drops its output significantly within about a minute. 

http://i.imgur.com/OiSUXum.png


----------



## snowlover91

Tachead said:


> It means just what it sounds like. Lighter and smaller, more pocket friendly.
> 
> No data is required although there are plenty of reviews of the older models that illustrate this if you wish to look them up. It is basic physics. An object with higher mass and a higher surface area, with all else being equal(both lights are the same aluminum), will always be able to absorb and dissipate heat more efficiently. I should add that even with the cooling fins, these small flashlights arent particularly good a dissipating heat when driven hard(hence the need for thermal regulation).
> 
> Here is the H600Fd MKIII running outside in -8C ambient temperature. As you can see the PID drops its output significantly within about a minute.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/OiSUXum.png



Agreed and Selfbuilts reviews along with others illustrate quite well the difference the extra mass of the MK2 makes. I don't have an MK3 series light yet as mine is in the mail but I do know those who have both agree that the SC62 lights are more pocket friendly. It's too bad my lights will arrive tomorrow when I'm out of town


----------



## Tachead

snowlover91 said:


> Agreed and Selfbuilts reviews along with others illustrate quite well the difference the extra mass of the MK2 makes. I don't have an MK3 series light yet as mine is in the mail but I do know those who have both agree that the SC62 lights are more pocket friendly. It's too bad my lights will arrive tomorrow when I'm out of town




Bummer. Let us know what you think when you get it.


----------



## snowlover91

Tachead said:


> Bummer. Let us know what you think when you get it.



Will do! I have an SC62w to compare the SC63w with and will try switching tailcaps if possible and run a few tests. The MK3 will be my first light of this series and I'm curious how the HI version will do for throw. Hopefully someone gets theirs today or tomorrow!


----------



## Flashgas

Flashgas said:


> Sent an email as well last night before reading this. Waiting on a reply but it looks like I'll be marking the calendar also.


Email and just as I thought:
"Your order will be shipped in about three weeks. Sorry for the waiting. 

Please let us know if you don't want to wait, and cancel for refund. 

Sincerely,

ZebraLight, Inc.
2908 Story Rd. W
Irving, TX 75038"


----------



## scs

snowlover91 said:


> Will do! I have an SC62w to compare the SC63w with and will try switching tailcaps if possible and run a few tests. The MK3 will be my first light of this series and I'm curious how the HI version will do for throw. Hopefully someone gets theirs today or tomorrow!



Iirc the viewing angle of the HI is equal to or larger than that of the regular.
The reflector based on vinh's photo of his disassembled sample of the regular model looks really tiny.
Assuming the same size reflector is used in the HI version, and that it's an OP one, I'm guessing under 20k CD, closer to 15k CD, considering that a XPL HI in a P60 smooth reflector barely does over 20k CD.


----------



## scs

Flashgas said:


> Email and just as I thought:
> "Your order will be shipped in about three weeks. Sorry for the waiting.
> 
> Please let us know if you don't want to wait, and cancel for refund.
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> ZebraLight, Inc.
> 2908 Story Rd. W
> Irving, TX 75038"



One can infer from the response that ZL has gotten more than enough orders to fill and they are doing so well that they can afford to potentially lose the order of everyone who has emailed them for an update.


----------



## sidecross

scs said:


> One can infer from the response that ZL has gotten more than enough orders to fill and they are doing so well that they can afford to potentially lose the order of everyone who has emailed them for an update.


It is my understanding that because they charge a credit card or PayPal at the time of the order they are supposed to notify the purchaser 30 days after the order if not shipped and offer a refund.

It is my hope that Zebralight does not grow so big as to alter their product control. Some time success can be a downfall for a good product.


----------



## recDNA

There has been some talk if a Hi CRI model in 6 months. Are HI CRI XHP 35 or 50 leds actually available or is this likely vaporware. I haven't seen any flashlight made by anybody with CRI 93+ and any kind of XHP.


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Hopefully someone gets theirs today or tomorrow!



My SC63w is 2 miles down the road...at the post office! I'll have it tomorrow at exactly 9AM 

No SC600 HI, though...but I was tempted. I may go for it after some reviews.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

markr6 said:


> My SC63w is 2 miles down the road...at the post office! I'll have it tomorrow at exactly 9AM
> 
> No SC600 HI, though...but I was tempted. I may go for it after some reviews.


 

I'd go see if they would let you take it off their hands today!


----------



## markr6

Loving this SC63w!

+ Pogo pins on the head-end. Spring on tailcap.
+ Perfect anodizing
+ NCR18650GA with clear wrapper fits PERFECT. NO rattle, NO trouble fitting length-wise. I do need to tighten the cap a little more than any other ZL.
+ The clip/body mating is perfect!! Barely any effort to get it onto thick jeans pocket, yet it stays put firmly. NO cheese grater like the SC5 and some others.
+ Great size for pocket and holding in hands. Just as good or even better than the SC62.

~ A bit warmish for my tastes, but only when compared to my SC5w OP and SC600w II which are more like 5000K. Good enough, it's a keeper!


----------



## snowlover91

Awesome! How is the tint on it? Is the hotspot similar to the SC62? Is the tailcap easy to screw on or does it require a firm pressure like the SC62? I wonder why they went with pogo pins at the circuit board end and then a spring on the tail cap. I would think if they do a hybrid that they would do it with the spring at the head so if people drop the battery in it doesn't shock anything and then have the pogo pins at the tail cap.


----------



## acefspade

Does it get too hot to hold if left on h1 for too long?


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Awesome! How is the tint on it? Is the hotspot similar to the SC62? Is the tailcap easy to screw on or does it require a firm pressure like the SC62? I wonder why they went with pogo pins at the circuit board end and then a spring on the tail cap. I would think if they do a hybrid that they would do it with the spring at the head so if people drop the battery in it doesn't shock anything and then have the pogo pins at the tail cap.



Tint is pretty good. Noticeably warmer than my SC600w II and SC5w OP, but those are more like 5000K, so I think 4500K is spot on.

Tailcap is nice and firm, but there doesn't appear to be much lube, if any. I'll add more when I have a chance. The last turn you can feel it tighten up and you need to give it an extra check to make sure it's making contact. At first it felt tight but no light, so I though I got a dud! No problem.

There's a spring in the tailcap, but they have the tolerance so tight now I doubt a spring will do anything at all. I just like that the spring has more play, and when compressed its keeping the battery from rattling. Or it could be to a smaller diameter tube. I've found all Zebralights vary slightly so it could just be up to chance. Either way, there is absolutely no rattle even when tapping the side of the cap, which usually gives at least a hint of sound on many other Zebralights. OK now I'm just getting picky!


----------



## recDNA

Any chance a flat head protected cell like the AW would fit?


----------



## markr6

recDNA said:


> Any chance a flat head protected cell like the AW would fit?



I don't have one, but I'll try an unprotected button top which is about 2mm longer than my flat top. That may give us an idea of any wiggle room there may be. But I doubt it since the naked flat top already seems packed in there tight.


----------



## djburkes

No beamshot yet...


----------



## Konstantin

markr6 Поздравляю с покупкой!Thank you for photos.


----------



## recDNA

markr6 said:


> I don't have one, but I'll try an unprotected button top which is about 2mm longer than my flat top. That may give us an idea of any wiggle room there may be. But I doubt it since the naked flat top already seems packed in there tight.


THANKS! I saw the other post. A button top wouldn't work with pogo pins anyway but if it is obviously too big based on the description in the other thread. Too bad.


----------



## markr6

djburkes said:


> No beamshot yet...



I know it's not so useful at such a short distance (8') but it's all I got so far. It's been a while since I had my SC62w, but if I remember correctly, I'd say they are the exact same.

SC5w OP left ____ SC63w right


----------



## snowlover91

Tint and beam looks good in the photo posted! Compared with the SC62w you had, would you go with the 63 or 62 model and why?


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Tint and beam looks good in the photo posted! Compared with the SC62w you had, would you go with the 63 or 62 model and why?



I like the looks of the SC63 better, but I bet that's not a big deal for most people. The important part is the PID...it seems like it's doing a better job here. Both great lights though.

Like many small, bright lights, the highest mode (H1) is more of a "showoff mode" for me. I'll be using H2a quite often when needed. And that's where the argument about having more programability comes in. The ability to omit H1 and only use and switch between H2a and H2b by double clicking would be great. But I can't complain. This one is a winner!

The size is perfect, and I like the slight curve on the body...right where your middle finger rests. Perfect grip.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

Here ya go SC62 left SC63w right




[/URL]







[/IMG]


----------



## markr6

Without having an SC62, I didn't realize my SC63w was that much shorter. Nice!


----------



## gunga

Huh. Now I think I like the sc63w better. Cool.


----------



## markr6

SC62(w) is back in stock just in case some of you are not liking this SC63


----------



## tonkem

This is making the waiting harder  I am replacing my 62 with the 63. Can't wait for my shipping notification....



ateupwithgolf said:


> Here ya go SC62 left SC63w right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/IMG]


----------



## markr6

tonkem said:


> I am replacing my 62 with the 63. Can't wait for my shipping notification....



But don't be like me and jump to conclusions so quick! Not in the case, but in the past I've been too quick to dismiss lights and sell them right away. I'm sure you'll know fairly soon between these two lights, though.


----------



## uofaengr

63 definitely looks better in these pictures than on the website. Curious to know the limits of what batteries will fit (maybe unprotected button tops, I'm sure protected cells won't fit)


----------



## fnsooner

I have had my SC63w in hand for about an hour now. I am not sure what to not like about it. It is better in every way: Smaller, lighter, brighter.

I can’t get over how small it is. Love it. Not sure if I would want it to be any smaller. 

I took it to a small room and ceiling bounced it and my SC62w and you could easily tell that the SC63w was brighter. My rough estimate is if the SC62w is 920 lumens then the SC63w is probably about 1300 lumens.

I am very pleased. :twothumbs 

The tint is terrific but slightly cooler than my SC62w. I would have preferred it to be a little warmer but I am not complaining. The tint really is nice and you can tell the CRI is bumped up a notch.

I always like it when I get one of the darker anodized lights and that is what I got. Again, very nice.

I also got the SC600w HI III and the above impressions are similar except the anodizing is a lighter color. I will take it out tonight and check out its throw.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

I'm not the best photog! These are with my iphone6. Tried to take some outside beamshots, but with the iphone the sc62 and sc63w looked exactly the same. Obviously not with my eyes. The SC63w is marginally brighter IMO than the SC62 I have, but it's not much. The warmer tint though is much more pleasing to me, so I'm ditching the SC62.


----------



## markr6

fnsooner said:


> The tint is terrific but slightly cooler than my SC62w. I would have preferred it to be a little warmer but I am not complaining.



I'll switch you! I'm only 34% joking 

SC5w OP








SC63w






I was messing around outside too...this thing is stupid bright for the size.

Just sitting here, running for 6 minutes straight...not even hot, barely warm!!! Blew some air on it for 5 seconds, right back up. Pretty damn amazing.


----------



## fnsooner

markr6 said:


> I'll switch you! I'm only 34% joking


Yeah, when I saw your earlier post about yours being slightly warmer than your other w ZLs, I got excited. I am really liking this though. Someone posted a beam shot of ZL's 5700k XHP35 LED in one of these threads and I actually thought it looked decent.

I am curious about what they come up with in the future with their d and c variants.


----------



## recDNA

markr6 said:


> I'll switch you! I'm only 34% joking
> 
> SC5w OP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SC63w
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was messing around outside too...this thing is stupid bright for the size.
> 
> Just sitting here, running for 6 minutes straight...not even hot, barely warm!!! Blew some air on it for 5 seconds, right back up. Pretty damn amazing.


Kowabunga!


----------



## Aldiggi

So just to make sure lol..... I can not use my protected 18650's in this bad boy???


----------



## Glock27

Nope!

G27


----------



## Aldiggi

Glock27 said:


> Nope!
> 
> G27


Thank you [emoji106]


----------



## shira

recDNA said:


> There has been some talk if a Hi CRI model in 6 months. Are HI CRI XHP 35 or 50 leds actually available or is this likely vaporware. I haven't seen any flashlight made *by anybody with CRI 93+ and any kind of XHP.*



Well, I purchased three CRI-96 XHP70s from Cutter (see the 1st LED in the second row). And I had Vinh create a custom TK75 from them. The TK75 reflectors are clear, so there's a small donut hole. But the color rendition is startling. I think that with an orange peel reflector one could make a pretty impressive flashlight using those LEDs.


----------



## holygeez03

Hey Mark... any battery rattle issues?


----------



## snowlover91

holygeez03 said:


> Hey Mark... any battery rattle issues?



Nope he posted that the SC63 had none whatsoever, couldn't get it to do anything no matter how hard he tried haha.


----------



## TCY

The SC63 looks much better with the ZL logo on it. I wish tech guys at ZL could update the picture.


----------



## holygeez03

So what did ZL change to eliminate the rattle? Are the tailcap pins stronger? Or is there something on the head end?


----------



## snowlover91

holygeez03 said:


> So what did ZL change to eliminate the rattle? Are the tailcap pins stronger? Or is there something on the head end?



I believe Mark posted a pic in one of these threads but can't remember which one since we have 3 different ZL threads going on.. But they did 3 pogo pins in head on circuit board where + terminal of battery rests. The tailcap has a spring like SC62 model and is a tight fit which presumably reduces the rattle too. Also the tube diameter tolerances appear spot on from what he said also.


----------



## kj2

Must admit, the new design of the 63 starts to grow on me


----------



## recDNA

shira said:


> Well, I purchased three CRI-96 XHP70s from Cutter (see the 1st LED in the second row). And I had Vinh create a custom TK75 from them. The TK75 reflectors are clear, so there's a small donut hole. But the color rendition is startling. I think that with an orange peel reflector one could make a pretty impressive flashlight using those LEDs.


Sounds great! Thanks for letting me know they exist


----------



## uofaengr

kj2 said:


> Must admit, the new design of the 63 starts to grow on me


Yep, I agree. Not sure if I want to wait on a HI CRI variant or not.


----------



## kj2

uofaengr said:


> Yep, I agree. Not sure if I want to wait on a HI CRI variant or not.



Am thinking about getting the w version. Tint on my SC32w is awesome


----------



## markr6

holygeez03 said:


> Hey Mark... any battery rattle issues?





holygeez03 said:


> So what did ZL change to eliminate the rattle? Are the tailcap pins stronger? Or is there something on the head end?



ZERO! I am very happy about this. If I take the cap off and hold it vertical, shaking it, I can hear the battery rattling side-to-side just a bit. So I can't say it's solely the tube diameter causing it not to rattle. I'm guessing the stronger spring in the cap is helping out.

Also, I just tried an unprotected NCR18650GA and NCR18650B with button top. Only 1-2mm longer, but too big to even get the cap on. I just wanted to be sure.


----------



## uofaengr

kj2 said:


> Am thinking about getting the w version. Tint on my SC32w is awesome


The tint on my SC62w is awesome, but my SC52w not so great. I'd like to see more 63w's in people's hands to see how the tint lottery goes in this first run. I want to see if there's a lot of tint shift between hotspot and spill like a lot of XM-L2s.


----------



## acefspade

markr6 said:


> ZERO! I am very happy about this. If I take the cap off and hold it vertical, shaking it, I can hear the battery rattling side-to-side just a bit. So I can't say it's solely the tube diameter causing it not to rattle. I'm guessing the stronger spring in the cap is helping out.
> 
> Also, I just tried an unprotected NCR18650GA and NCR18650B with button top. Only 1-2mm longer, but too big to even get the cap on. I just wanted to be sure.



Hey Mark,

since u have all versions of the new zebralights, which is your favorite?


----------



## markr6

acefspade said:


> Hey Mark,
> 
> since u have all versions of the new zebralights, which is your favorite?



Headlamps are a lot different in my opinion, so I'll get that out of the way to start. H600w II is what I use most often and does everything and more I need a headlamp to do. It's definitely my favorite Zebralight.

But for flashlights, it's tough to say. Right now it's a tie between the SC600w III and SC63w. I like the size of the SC63 but the SC600 is more appropriate for running on high and handling the heat better. It just depends on how/where you're using it.

If I could only have one, I would probably go with the SC600 III. I don't have the SC600w III HI, but from what I've heard it doesn't have much more throw.

And there's nothing wrong with the SC62 or SC600 II. I just like the small size reductions and designs of the new ones.


----------



## twistedraven

The anal part of me likes the heft of the SC600 over SC62/3 just because it makes it feel substantial and expensive. L3 Illumination's L11C with Nichia 219B handles my EDC anyways.


----------



## markr6

twistedraven said:


> The anal part of me likes the heft of the SC600 over SC62/3 just because it makes it feel substantial and expensive. L3 Illumination's L11C with Nichia 219B handles my EDC anyways.



I'm picky when it comes to an EDC size, so I also picked up the L11C Nichia. So the SC600 III makes sense. I agree about the heft, but it feels substantially less than the MKII, so it's a great light.


----------



## acefspade

markr6 said:


> Headlamps are a lot different in my opinion, so I'll get that out of the way to start. H600w II is what I use most often and does everything and more I need a headlamp to do. It's definitely my favorite Zebralight.
> 
> But for flashlights, it's tough to say. Right now it's a tie between the SC600w III and SC63w. I like the size of the SC63 but the SC600 is more appropriate for running on high and handling the heat better. It just depends on how/where you're using it.
> 
> If I could only have one, I would probably go with the SC600 III. I don't have the SC600w III HI, but from what I've heard it doesn't have much more throw.
> 
> And there's nothing wrong with the SC62 or SC600 II. I just like the small size reductions and designs of the new ones.




I currently have the H600FD III and the SC600 II, would you say the sc600 III is noticeably brighter than the sc600 II or handles the heat better?


----------



## markr6

acefspade said:


> I currently have the H600FD III and the SC600 II, would you say the sc600 III is noticeably brighter than the sc600 II or handles the heat better?



I really haven't done any testing between the two. The brightness is very close, as well as the heat management from what I can tell. But we would have to rely on someone with some testing equipment to make an accurate judgement.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

twistedraven said:


> The anal part of me likes the heft of the SC600 over SC62/3 just because it makes it feel substantial and expensive. L3 Illumination's L11C with Nichia 219B handles my EDC anyways.



The L11C tint and cri is very nice, but were are talking 140 lm vs. 1126 lm in your pocket. Sure I don't need that much often, but it's nice when you need it on the sc63w, who's cri is not bad at 80.


----------



## sidecross

acefspade said:


> I currently have the H600FD III and the SC600 II, would you say the sc600 III is noticeably brighter than the sc600 II or handles the heat better?


I have the same two you mentioned and the newer SC600 Mk lll which came today.

The only advantage of the Mk lll is the samller size and being brighter with possibly a more efficent use of battery current. 

For me the smaller size and I am hoping better effiency is worth the upgrade.


----------



## acefspade

sidecross said:


> I have the same two you mentioned and the newer SC600 Mk lll which came today.
> 
> The only advantage of the Mk lll is the samller size and being brighter with possibly a more efficent use of battery current.
> 
> For me the smaller size and I am hoping better effiency is worth the upgrade.



Thanks everyone for the responses, just placed an order for the sc600mkiii and sc63. I think I need them in my hand to make a decision. Anybody have any experience with zebralight.com's refund policy?


----------



## newbie66

Hmm, pondering on which to get after just losing my h600w mkii 
It does give me an excuse to get a new one.
Although it seems almost all the new models are on back order. What a bummer.


----------



## snowlover91

acefspade said:


> Thanks everyone for the responses, just placed an order for the sc600mkiii and sc63. I think I need them in my hand to make a decision. Anybody have any experience with zebralight.com's refund policy?



You could always keep both, getting rid of one might be harder than you think since they're great little lights  You could always sell the one you don't want on here, it would go quickly, or you could send it back to ZL for a refund. I believe you can within 30 days but I'm not 100% sure, and you have to pay return shipping I believe. I've never had to use it though so not 100% sure.


----------



## newbie66

To those outside of US ordering directly from Zebralight, do you pay for import duties/taxes?


----------



## henry1960

uofaengr said:


> The tint on my SC62w is awesome, but my SC52w not so great. I'd like to see more 63w's in people's hands to see how the tint lottery goes in this first run. I want to see if there's a lot of tint shift between hotspot and spill like a lot of XM-L2s.



I like the tint on my SC62w better my self...I love the SC63 but the tint is on the warmish side....I ordered another one three week ago so I`LL see how that one is..Hopefully Its better then the one I just received...


----------



## Tachead

newbie66 said:


> To those outside of US ordering directly from Zebralight, do you pay for import duties/taxes?



Yes. Well for the DHL shipping option at least. I paid $20 for my H600Fd MKIII.


----------



## newbie66

Tachead said:


> Yes. Well for the DHL shipping option at least. I paid $20 for my H600Fd MKIII.




Ouch! DHL always hurts. Was hoping Zebralight would you know, state a much lower price.


----------



## Tachead

The advantage of buying direct from Zebralight China though is that you get the latest production batch instead of risking getting one of the first batches that frequently have issues and havent had the bugs worked out yet. This can be an issue with buying a newly released model from Zebralight. That's why I would always prefer to be patient and wait a bit after release before buying and get direct from ZL to ensure I get the newest run.


----------



## Tixx

markr6 said:


> My SC63w shipped! I will have it Saturday. It usually takes 2-3 days. I'm not sure why Priority mail is taking 4 days for a rather short distance, but I've stopped trying to figure out USPS.
> 
> p.s. In the ZL 12v battery thread, I mentioned the following...
> 
> Zebralight updated the product spreadsheet. SC63/SC63w now says in the notes section:
> 
> _*"pogo pin or spring contacts, unprotected only"*
> 
> _So, will there be two options? I doubt it. A change back to springs in a newer version?
> 
> Correct me if it always said this, but I don't recall seeing this note and believe it's a new note.


Did you order it yesterday? I order these damn things a month in advance and get screwed on getting them shipped! Grrrr...


----------



## markr6

Tixx said:


> Did you order it yesterday? I order these damn things a month in advance and get screwed on getting them shipped! Grrrr...


No I ordered on 1/1/16. Just got it a couple days ago. That was a long wait!


----------



## jak

markr6 said:


> No I ordered on 1/1/16. Just got it a couple days ago. That was a long wait!


Ug, I order the same flippin' day and I'm waiting another 2-3 weeks according to them. I guess they only ordered EIGHT for their first shipment. 

Following Tesla's lead... always keep 'em waiting.


----------



## Tixx

markr6 said:


> No I ordered on 1/1/16. Just got it a couple days ago. That was a long wait!


Ordered 2 on Jan 1st with expedited shipping. Did the expedited because of what you said on the 600 version.


----------



## markr6

Tixx said:


> Ordered 2 on Jan 1st with expedited shipping. Did the expedited because of what you said on the 600 version.



Yeah, I wonder if those get pushed to the top of the list?


----------



## Fireclaw18

I ordered on January 1 withOUT expedited shipping. Just selected regular 1st class USPS shipping.

It arrived yesterday, but unfortunately I had it shipped to my work and they were closed for the weekend and Monday is a holiday. I'll get it Tuesday.


----------



## newbie66

Tachead said:


> The advantage of buying direct from Zebralight China though is that you get the latest production batch instead of risking getting one of the first batches that frequently have issues and havent had the bugs worked out yet. This can be an issue with buying a newly released model from Zebralight. That's why I would always prefer to be patient and wait a bit after release before buying and get direct from ZL to ensure I get the newest run.



Thanks. Being patient is always a good idea. I think I will wait patiently until the new xhp50 zebralight is released.


----------



## snowlover91

Finally back in town and couldn't wait to get my Zebralights out and play with them! I ordered the SC63w and MK3 HI model, I'll post my first impressions of the SC63w here  

The first thing I noticed was how light this thing is, wow without a battery it's super light and even with one not bad. The anodizing on my SC62w happened to be the dark grey when I got it about a year ago, some batches have some with darker anodizing but most are usually a gunmetal grey. I like both but the dark anodizing is hard to find and looks even nicer imo. My SC63w has the typical gunmetal grey anodizing, nicely done and no complains there! I was skeptical about the new design but after seeing it and holding it I like it much better. It clips onto pockets easier due to the smooth part, it looks sleek, feels nice in the hand and is a tad shorter than the SC62 series. The hotspot is similar in size/shape but maybe a tad larger than the SC62w I have but it's pretty much the same. I know Mark said his tailcap was a little difficult to get on because the spring compressed so much, mine was actually easier than the SC62w I own. You do have to screw it down a bit tighter but no issues here, I like it! Tint is very nice, I would say around 4700-4800k on my sample and the extra CRI is beneficial. Last thing, I ran the light on the turbo with a freshly charged 18650ga and after 1 minute it wasn't as hot to the touch as my SC62w gets. I assume this is due to a more aggressive PID and more efficient LED that puts off less heat. 

Overall if you own an SC62 it's a nice upgrade. You get a smaller, lighter, brighter light with a better design for clipping it to your pocket. The smooth portion works great when clipping and unclipping the light to your pocket or anything else, not a "pocket shredder" like some other Zebralights are. Lastly my sample at least seems to run cooler with the extra benefits of 80cri vs 75 and a few extra lumens too. Only drawback is that it works with unprotected flat top cells only, for me this is no issue but some may find that a problem. I'll do some tailcap measurements soon and report back!


----------



## newbie66

snowlover91 said:


> Finally back in town and couldn't wait to get my Zebralights out and play with them! I ordered the SC63w and MK3 HI model, I'll post my first impressions of the SC63w here
> 
> The first thing I noticed was how light this thing is, wow without a battery it's super light and even with one not bad. The anodizing on my SC62w happened to be the dark grey when I got it about a year ago, some batches have some with darker anodizing but most are usually a gunmetal grey. I like both but the dark anodizing is hard to find and looks even nicer imo. My SC63w has the typical gunmetal grey anodizing, nicely done and no complains there! I was skeptical about the new design but after seeing it and holding it I like it much better. It clips onto pockets easier due to the smooth part, it looks sleek, feels nice in the hand and is a tad shorter than the SC62 series. The hotspot is similar in size/shape but maybe a tad larger than the SC62w I have but it's pretty much the same. I know Mark said his tailcap was a little difficult to get on because the spring compressed so much, mine was actually easier than the SC62w I own. You do have to screw it down a bit tighter but no issues here, I like it! Tint is very nice, I would say around 4700-4800k on my sample and the extra CRI is beneficial. Last thing, I ran the light on the turbo with a freshly charged 18650ga and after 1 minute it wasn't as hot to the touch as my SC62w gets. I assume this is due to a more aggressive PID and more efficient LED that puts off less heat.
> 
> Overall if you own an SC62 it's a nice upgrade. You get a smaller, lighter, brighter light with a better design for clipping it to your pocket. The smooth portion works great when clipping and unclipping the light to your pocket or anything else, not a "pocket shredder" like some other Zebralights are. Lastly my sample at least seems to run cooler with the extra benefits of 80cri vs 75 and a few extra lumens too. Only drawback is that it works with unprotected flat top cells only, for me this is no issue but some may find that a problem. I'll do some tailcap measurements soon and report back!




Thanks for the input! The tailcap on the h600w mkii was pretty hard to get on too, so not that much of an issue to me.


----------



## uofaengr

henry1960 said:


> I like the tint on my SC62w better my self...I love the SC63 but the tint is on the warmish side....I ordered another one three week ago so I`LL see how that one is..Hopefully Its better then the one I just received...


My SC52w is right at 4400K while my SC62w is 4700K, but a much cleaner and even tint profile. My sweet spot is probably 4500K as long as it's nice and even throughout and prefer tans to greens. I think I'm holding out for a HI CRI version in hopes of a reduction in the tint lottery, but will be keeping tabs on the tint consistency of the 63w in the coming weeks.


----------



## snowlover91

As promised I took a few beamshots and pics of the SC63. The tint is a very clean, neutral tint around 4700-4800k I would say.

XHP 35 emitter, perfectly centered and mounted on copper board.






SC63w on moonlight





SC63w beside MK3 HI





SC62w on left, SC63w on right





Beamshot


----------



## Tachead

snowlover91 said:


> As promised I took a few beamshots and pics of the SC63. The tint is a very clean, neutral tint around 4700-4800k I would say.
> 
> XHP 35 emitter, perfectly centered and mounted on copper board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SC63w on moonlight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SC63w beside MK3 HI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SC62w on left, SC63w on right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beamshot



Thanks for the pics:thumbsup:. Pretty cool for a "w" model and much cooler then the specs if your guess is accurate. How does the tint and CCT compare to the SC600 MKIII HI? I look forward to some outdoor beamshots.


----------



## ven

Fireclaw18 said:


> I ordered on January 1 withOUT expected shipping. Just selected regular 1st class USPS shipping.
> 
> It arrived yesterday, but unfortunately I had it shipped to my work and they were closed for the weekend and Monday is a holiday. I'll get it Tuesday.



I hate that!! Looking forward to going into work....... :laughing:


----------



## ven

Great pics snowlover


----------



## snowlover91

Tac, I would put the tint around 4700-4800k based on my Nichia 219b and my 5000k SC5fd. The MK3 HI is right around 4400-4500k and has a deeper warm tint which is a little more noticeable, I really like it also. For me 5000k is about as cool as I like them so both of these work great. I take my beamshots on auto white balance so it doesn't look the same as in real life but I can try to get one or two that are representative of what I see. 

Also, I REALLY like the new SC63 design. I was quite skeptical about it at first and considered cancelling my preorder but I decided to wait and give it a try. The smooth portion makes the clip work perfectly now, slides easily on but it's stiff enough that the clip holds the light securely in place. No longer a "pocket shredder" like my other lights. I also conducted a simple test with my wife and gave her three Zebralights to hold; the MK3 HI, SC5w and SC63w and asked her which she liked best. Her response was the SC63 because it had a good balance to it and the overall feel of the light was better. It looks much better in person than the pics on the ZL website.


----------



## swan

snowlover91 here is the CW XPH35 5700K in the mk111 for comparison on 0.01 lumen


----------



## recDNA

Has anybody measured the throw of the sc63 or the mkIII?


----------



## Fireclaw18

recDNA said:


> Has anybody measured the throw of the sc63 or the mkIII?




Doesn't look like it.

When my SC63w arrives tomorrow I'll pull out the luxmeter and give it a test. Don't have a MkIII though.


----------



## acefspade

if you have sc600MKIII and a sc5, would you still need to get the sc63?


----------



## recDNA

Fireclaw18 said:


> Doesn't look like it.
> 
> When my SC63w arrives tomorrow I'll pull out the luxmeter and give it a test. Don't have a MkIII though.


Thanks so much! I am very curious although 63 is floody it may still have more lux than 62. Of course MKIII High is the more I am most curious about. 10 or 15 thousand cd would be excellent.


----------



## fnsooner

acefspade said:


> if you have sc600MKIII and a sc5, would you still need to get the sc63?


I still think the SC600 MK III is a little big for EDC. If you needed the extra lumens and runtimes of the SC63(38 grams, .96 inches in diameter) over the SC5(58 grams, 1 inch diameter) then I think the 63 would still be a good option. The 63 is lighter and smaller in diameter and only a half inch longer. 

My spacing on my Zebralights is now SC52w, SC63w and SC600w HI MK III.


----------



## recDNA

I'm thinking 63 HiCRI in my jeans and MKIII HiCRI in jacket if they ever come out.


----------



## fnsooner

I would definitely go for the 63 Hi CRI. Especially if they can keep those lumens up near the 1k lumen level.


----------



## recDNA

fnsooner said:


> I would definitely go for the 63 Hi CRI. Especially if they can keep those lumens up near the 1k lumen level.


Even if only 600 lumens it will murder anything else HiCRI in a small light.


----------



## jak

acefspade said:


> if you have sc600MKIII and a sc5, would you still need to get the sc63?


For me, yes. Even the SC62 feels smaller in your pocket compared to a SC5, and even more so than a 600.


----------



## markr6

recDNA said:


> I'm thinking 63 HiCRI in my jeans and MKIII HiCRI in jacket if they ever come out.



Perfect!

Too bad the SC600 MKIII is getting the 5000K/High CRI first. I wish they would start with the SC63, that's what I really want!


----------



## KITROBASKIN

Ooh Yeah



markr6 said:


> Perfect!
> 
> Too bad the SC600 MKIII is getting the 5000K/High CRI first. I wish they would start with the SC63, that's what I really want!


----------



## recDNA

markr6 said:


> Perfect!
> 
> Too bad the SC600 MKIII is getting the 5000K/High CRI first. I wish they would start with the SC63, that's what I really want!


I agree. The 63 is easier to carry. I won't really need the extra output of the mkIII except for fun. It will mostly be a backup. That's one reason I wish the circuit could recognize and step down for primaries. They are better if your flashlight is likely to go long periods without use. I have several lights that use li ions but I only need to charge once a month... Sometimes 2 months. Not great for the batteries.


----------



## markr6

recDNA said:


> I agree. The 63 is easier to carry. I won't really need the extra output of the mkIII except for fun. It will mostly be a backup. That's one reason I wish the circuit could recognize and step down for primaries. They are better if your flashlight is likely to go long periods without use. I have several lights that use li ions but I only need to charge once a month... Sometimes 2 months. Not great for the batteries.



I agree. As for the batteries I usually charge mine to 4.15v max and just chance it. Especially given the low cost these days. Even the 3400mAh cells I've had with little use since 2013 are still around 3400mAh, and IR doesn't seem too much higher than when new.

I want this SC600Fd III Plus SO BAD!!


----------



## Tachead

recDNA said:


> I agree. The 63 is easier to carry. I won't really need the extra output of the mkIII except for fun. It will mostly be a backup. That's one reason I wish the circuit could recognize and step down for primaries. They are better if your flashlight is likely to go long periods without use. I have several lights that use li ions but I only need to charge once a month... Sometimes 2 months. Not great for the batteries.




Just use fewer lights. Only put a battery in your EDC and maybe one other light and leave the rest of your cells in storage(3.6-3.7V). Then swap batteries as needed. Problem solved.


----------



## recDNA

Tachead said:


> Just use fewer lights. Only put a battery in your EDC and maybe one other light and leave the rest of your cells in storage(3.6-3.7V). Then swap batteries as needed. Problem solved.


Not really, although it would help, despite my addiction I seldom actually use my flashlights and when I do it is usually a quick burst at whatever power is nearest 200 lumens. It is very rare I max out power. Even If I only used my sc62w it wouldn't need a charge more than once every couple of months.


----------



## Tachead

recDNA said:


> Not really, although it would help, despite my addiction I seldom actually use my flashlights and when I do it is usually a quick burst at whatever power is nearest 200 lumens. It is very rare I max out power. Even If I only used my sc62w it wouldn't need a charge more than once every couple of months.




Maybe it is time for a different hobby?:thinking:. Why would you spend so much of your disposable income on items you never use?(not trying to be a **** just genuinely curious) There are plenty of other things that might be more useful to you to be into and/or collect. I have many hobbies myself with flashlights being one of the lowest on the list(only when I'm bored every few years in the winter really). Might I suggest a few: Knives, firearms, cell phones, computers, shoes, clothes, cameras, stereo equipment, tools, RC, and many others that apply to other hobbies. You could also travel with all the extra money you save or get into other hobbies that allow you to use your flashlights more often(camping, fishing, hunting, hiking, rock climbing, kayaking exc.). Just some things to think about:thumbsup: Life is full of many things to experience, try, explore, and collect so, I say why get too tied down to any one thing whether it be a hobby, collection, activity, exc. I say try as many as you can, it makes for a more interesting life.


----------



## scs

I've always thought that "hobby" requires more than just buying stuff often.
Until I start to actively build and modify my own lights, I don't consider myself a flashlight hobbyist, but merely a flashlight purchaser.


----------



## Tachead

scs said:


> I've always thought that "hobby" requires more than just buying stuff often.
> Until I start to actively build and modify my own lights, I don't consider myself a flashlight hobbyist, but merely a flashlight purchaser.



Not really. A hobby is anything you do for pleasure really. Collecting can be hobby too. Even shopping can be a hobby.

Plus, I bet you do more then just purchase flashlights(although that in it self could be a hobby) you play with them too


----------



## recDNA

Tachead said:


> Not really. A hobby is anything you do for pleasure really. Collecting can be hobby too. Even shopping can be a hobby.
> 
> Plus, I bet you do more then just purchase flashlights(although that in it self could be a hobby) you play with them too[emoji14]


And of course I do play with them. I even use one at work. Just short intervals once in a while as I said. I mean how many people really carry their McGizmos let alone dive with one? Of course some do. Besides, I've loved flashlights since I was a kid. Just do. The heart wants what it wants.


----------



## bodhran

I don't use my flashlights very ofter either and I have several. Mine began as a search for what i felt was the ideal flashlight but after spending probably too much time on these pages, I learned the perfect single flashlight did not exist. The search then became what would be the perfect flashlight my needs. For me that became the Fenix TK32 for throw but I haven't seen a lot of mention about it here. For flood it has been the SC600. I have owned each generation of this light and I love the my SC600w MKIII.


----------



## scout24

Tachead- PM incoming.


----------



## Fireclaw18

My SC63w arrived today.

*My initial impressions*:


*Quite bright* for its size. The light is very small. It's shorter than my SC62w, but longer than my DQG 18650 Tiny IIIs and IV. This is my brightest Zebralight. Max output is also considerably brighter than my stock DQG Tiny IV's turbo. 
*It gets warm quite fast*. However, it never gets too hot to hold though due to the PID thermal sensor. 
*Output declines fairly rapidly from max*. If I looked closely I could see it start to gradually step down at around 10 seconds or so. I wouldn't be surprised if at the 2 minute mark in a 70 degree room output would decline by 40 or 50% due to the sensor. 
*The lack of knurling is VERY evident*. Without any knurling and few ribs this light feels like it's going to squirt out of my hands. I consider this a very bad thing in my EDC. I carry my EDC loose in my pocket and want to be able to reach in, grab it and shine it then put it back without feeling like I might drop it. This feels like a big downgrade compared to the knurled Zebras, and even a downgrade to the SC62's ribs. After removing the clip, I wrapped a rubber sleeve taken from a cheap budget light around the body tube. Doesn't look that pretty and probably interferes with heat transfer, but it solves the grip problem. 
*Tint is excellent*. No surprise since every neutral tint Zebra I've purchased after my SC52w has had great tint. 

*Lux measurements:*
I pulled out my lux meter and took some lux measurements at 1 meter. Here's how my new SC63w compared to some of my other small 1x18650 EDC lights, and a couple smaller lights:



Aleto N8 zoomie (modded with 5000K 3D XPL HI, FET driver, 20mm aspheric lens).......................................38,000 
Aleto N8 zoomie (modded with 5000K 3D XPL HI, FET driver, 20mm fresnel lens)..........................................26,000 
DQG Tiny III (modded with 3x 5000K 3D XPL HI, FET driver, Carclo 10507 triple-TIR optic. 3000 lumens).....21,000 
Cree 3w mini 14500 zoomie (modded with 3.0 amp driver, Nichia 219C, 16mm aspheric lens)......................13,000 
Sipik 68 zoomie (unmodded with XPE, running an IMR li-ion 14500)...............................................................12,800 
Zebralight SC600 (Mark 1 preorder with cool-white XML1).............................................................................10,100 
BLF A6 special edition (1x18650 tube light, neutral XPL, FET driver, 1600 lumens).........................................9,900 
*Zebralight SC63w......................................................................................9,300* 
DQG Tiny IV neutral (unmodded, 900 lumen XML2).........................................................................................8,000 
Zebralight SC62w............................................................................................................................................7,800 
Mecarmy PT16 (emitter swap to 5000K 3D XPL HI, powered by 1xICR 16340)...............................................7,800 
Zebralight SC62d.............................................................................................................................................5,000 
Zebralight SC52w............................................................................................................................................4,900 

For a light with such a small head, the SC63w holds its own. At 9,300 lux it performs almost as well as the FET driver equipped BLF A6 (with the A6 running on an IMR cell while the SC63w was running on an ICR cell), and is a significant upgrade over the SC62w! I was a bit surprised that my early model SC600 with its first generation XML outthrows the SC63w, but that is explained by its much larger reflector (My Mark I SC600 was the biggest light in the above list). The SC600 has a much tighter hotspot, though overall lumens are far lower.

The other lights on my list that had significantly more throw than the SC63w were mostly zoomies, which by their nature tend to have better throw than reflector lights. The one other exception was my 3,000 lumen modded DQG Tiny III triple, which with its massive output easily blows the SC63w away in both throw and flood.

*Hand feel:*
One factor I consider for my lights is how good does it feel to hold it in the hand. I call this "hand feel". Unfortunately, the SC63w has the worst hand feel of any light I've purchased in years because of the lack of knurling. It feels worse in the hand than every one of the other lights that I tested to make the lux table above. This is quite a shame, since some of my lights with the best hand feel are Zebras (SC80, SC5w, SC600).


----------



## KeepingItLight

Thanks, Fireclaw. Since I was making a lengthy perusal of your data anyway, I decided to reformat it into a table.


*Flashlight**Candela
*Aleto N8 zoomie (modded with 5000K 3D XPL HI, FET driver, 20mm aspheric lens)38,000Aleto N8 zoomie (modded with 5000K 3D XPL HI, FET driver, 20mm fresnel lens)26,000DQG Tiny III (modded with 3x 5000K 3D XPL HI, FET driver, Carclo 10507 triple-TIR optic. 3000 lumens)21,000Cree 3w mini 14500 zoomie (modded with 3.0 amp driver, Nichia 219C, 16mm aspheric lens)13,000Sipik 68 zoomie (unmodded with XPE, running an IMR li-ion 14500)12,800Zebralight SC600 (Mark 1 preorder with cool-white XML1)10,100BLF A6 special edition (1x18650 tube light, neutral XPL, FET driver, 1600 lumens)9,900*Zebralight SC63w*
*9,300
*DQG Tiny IV neutral (unmodded, 900 lumen XML2)8,000Zebralight SC62w7,800Mecarmy PT16 (emitter swap to 5000K 3D XPL HI, powered by 1xICR 16340)7,800Zebralight SC62d5,000Zebralight SC52w4,900


----------



## snowlover91

Great info Fireclaw! Are you planning to keep it? What could cause the lux increased, the extra lumens perhaps? I know visually the hot spot compared with the SC62 appears the same on my samples with the SC62 perhaps having a slightly smaller one, it's hard to tell. Hopefullt you have better luck with this one lol I know you've had some tough luck with ZL in the past.


----------



## GunnarGG

Thanks for the measurements, very useful info.

It would be nice to see also values for SC600(cw/w) MkIII and SC600 HI compared to SC63 and SC62w and SC62 d if somebody have these lights to compare.

I have orded an SC600w, hoping for a nice compromise between flood and throw.

Is it so that the SC 62 with XML has a similar beam profile as the SC63 with XHP35 and the SC600 MkII with XML has similar beam profile as the SC600 MkIII with XHP35?


----------



## Overclocker

Fireclaw18 said:


> *Hand feel:*
> One factor I consider for my lights is how good does it feel to hold it in the hand. I call this "hand feel". Unfortunately, the SC63w has the worst hand feel of any light I've purchased in years because of the lack of knurling. It feels worse in the hand than every one of the other lights that I tested to make the lux table above. This is quite a shame, since some of my lights with the best hand feel are Zebras (SC80, SC5w, SC600).





i plan on sticking a combination of grip tape and GITD tape over the flat parts


----------



## newbie66

Thx Fireclaw18 for the test info and KeepingItLight for the reformat effort. Zebralight never displayed lux measurements.


----------



## fnsooner

Thanks Fireclaw. Us ZebraLighters aren't used to worrying about lux and most of us aren't set up for measuring it.


----------



## markr6

Fireclaw18 said:


> *Output declines fairly rapidly from max*. If I looked closely I could see it start to gradually step down at around 10 seconds or so. I wouldn't be surprised if at the 2 minute mark in a 70 degree room output would decline by 40 or 50% due to the sensor.



I noticed the quick decline, but was surprised to see it hold steady after a few minutes. In a 68-70° room standing on my desk, it stepped down a few times initially, then stayed there. Then, it actually stepped back up after a minute or two.


----------



## Fireclaw18

GunnarGG said:


> Is it so that the SC 62 with XML has a similar beam profile as the SC63 with XHP35 and the SC600 MkII with XML has similar beam profile as the SC600 MkIII with XHP35?



Very likely. I would expect an SC600 Mark II and Mark III to have the same beam profile as my old SC600 MkI. The newer SC600 models should have more throw. The SC600 MkIII HI should have the most throw of all Zebras.


----------



## Fireclaw18

markr6 said:


> I noticed the quick decline, but was surprised to see it hold steady after a few minutes. In a 68-70° room standing on my desk, it stepped down a few times initially, then stayed there. Then, it actually stepped back up after a minute or two.



The PID is pretty cool. It's a feature my modded lights with ATiny13 processors on their drivers don't have.

I wouldn't dare leave my 3000 lumen DQG Tiny III tailstanding on max. Even with the turbo timer set to reduce output to 50% it would eventually become burning hot on its own. Not so with a Zebra, where I can trust the PID to keep it within a safe temperature at all times.


----------



## recDNA

Fireclaw18 said:


> My SC63w arrived today.
> 
> *My initial impressions*:
> 
> 
> *Quite bright* for its size. The light is very small. It's shorter than my SC62w, but longer than my DQG 18650 Tiny IIIs and IV. This is my brightest Zebralight. Max output is also considerably brighter than my stock DQG Tiny IV's turbo.
> *It gets warm quite fast*. However, it never gets too hot to hold though due to the PID thermal sensor.
> *Output declines fairly rapidly from max*. If I looked closely I could see it start to gradually step down at around 10 seconds or so. I wouldn't be surprised if at the 2 minute mark in a 70 degree room output would decline by 40 or 50% due to the sensor.
> *The lack of knurling is VERY evident*. Without any knurling and few ribs this light feels like it's going to squirt out of my hands. I consider this a very bad thing in my EDC. I carry my EDC loose in my pocket and want to be able to reach in, grab it and shine it then put it back without feeling like I might drop it. This feels like a big downgrade compared to the knurled Zebras, and even a downgrade to the SC62's ribs. After removing the clip, I wrapped a rubber sleeve taken from a cheap budget light around the body tube. Doesn't look that pretty and probably interferes with heat transfer, but it solves the grip problem.
> *Tint is excellent*. No surprise since every neutral tint Zebra I've purchased after my SC52w has had great tint.
> 
> *Lux measurements:*
> I pulled out my lux meter and took some lux measurements at 1 meter. Here's how my new SC63w compared to some of my other small 1x18650 EDC lights, and a couple smaller lights:
> 
> 
> 
> Aleto N8 zoomie (modded with 5000K 3D XPL HI, FET driver, 20mm aspheric lens).......................................38,000
> Aleto N8 zoomie (modded with 5000K 3D XPL HI, FET driver, 20mm fresnel lens)..........................................26,000
> DQG Tiny III (modded with 3x 5000K 3D XPL HI, FET driver, Carclo 10507 triple-TIR optic. 3000 lumens).....21,000
> Cree 3w mini 14500 zoomie (modded with 3.0 amp driver, Nichia 219C, 16mm aspheric lens)......................13,000
> Sipik 68 zoomie (unmodded with XPE, running an IMR li-ion 14500)...............................................................12,800
> Zebralight SC600 (Mark 1 preorder with cool-white XML1).............................................................................10,100
> BLF A6 special edition (1x18650 tube light, neutral XPL, FET driver, 1600 lumens).........................................9,900
> *Zebralight SC63w......................................................................................9,300*
> DQG Tiny IV neutral (unmodded, 900 lumen XML2).........................................................................................8,000
> Zebralight SC62w............................................................................................................................................7,800
> Mecarmy PT16 (emitter swap to 5000K 3D XPL HI, powered by 1xICR 16340)...............................................7,800
> Zebralight SC62d.............................................................................................................................................5,000
> Zebralight SC52w............................................................................................................................................4,900
> 
> For a light with such a small head, the SC63w holds its own. At 9,300 lux it performs almost as well as the FET driver equipped BLF A6 (with the A6 running on an IMR cell while the SC63w was running on an ICR cell), and is a significant upgrade over the SC62w! I was a bit surprised that my early model SC600 with its first generation XML outthrows the SC63w, but that is explained by its much larger reflector (My Mark I SC600 was the biggest light in the above list). The SC600 has a much tighter hotspot, though overall lumens are far lower.
> 
> The other lights on my list that had significantly more throw than the SC63w were mostly zoomies, which by their nature tend to have better throw than reflector lights. The one other exception was my 3,000 lumen modded DQG Tiny III triple, which with its massive output easily blows the SC63w away in both throw and flood.
> 
> *Hand feel:*
> One factor I consider for my lights is how good does it feel to hold it in the hand. I call this "hand feel". Unfortunately, the SC63w has the worst hand feel of any light I've purchased in years because of the lack of knurling. It feels worse in the hand than every one of the other lights that I tested to make the lux table above. This is quite a shame, since some of my lights with the best hand feel are Zebras (SC80, SC5w, SC600).


Finally some numbers! Thanks VERY much. I'm surprised how well the 63w throws. Sounds like the cool white version would be over 10000. That's good enough for almost all my tasks.
BTW, I have 2 Zebralights and expect to buy more and I DO care about throw. I would love to see how an XP-L HI would do at the same amp draw as the 63 but it sounds like ZL is attached to the 12 volt driver.

Now that Vinh has cracked one I'm kind of hoping he mods an MKII with XP-L HI. I would love to see how it could throw.


----------



## SubLGT

Fireclaw18 said:


> ...Without any knurling and few ribs this light feels like it's going to squirt out of my hands...



Strange. Do your dinner utensils (forks, spoons, knives) have knurling on them? If a plumber handed you a piece of smooth pipe, would you be able to hold it?


----------



## gunga

SubLGT said:


> Strange. Do your dinner utensils (forks, spoons, knives) have knurling on them? If a plumber handed you a piece of smooth pipe, would you be able to hold it?



Ha! Sorry. Needed to respond because this made me laugh!

Now I want knurling on my cutlery because of you!


----------



## markr6

LOL! I think people are just used to knurling and it has a nice feel. But since the SC63 has a clip, a couple of ribs and a recessed spot for your thumb over the switch, it provides a lot of grip. Now if we were talking about a tail clicky with no clip, that would be a different story.


----------



## Fireclaw18

markr6 said:


> LOL! I think people are just used to knurling and it has a nice feel. But since the SC63 has a clip, a couple of ribs and a recessed spot for your thumb over the switch, it provides a lot of grip. Now if we were talking about a tail clicky with no clip, that would be a different story.



I don't need knurling on my knife and fork and because I'm not reaching for them inside my pocket.

Personally, I find the few ribs and large central smooth section on the SC63w to be quite insufficient.

Can I hold it in the hand? of course. Does it feel secure and comfortable in the hand? NO!

In my opinion, now that I've had a chance to feel the SC63w in hand, this light would be far superior if Zebralight had ditched both the ribs and the smooth section and made the entire body tube between the head and tailcap fully knurled except for a strip under and around the clip.




Here's my SC63w with clip removed wearing a rubber grip sleeve I took from a budget light. I shouldn't have to put a rubber sleeve on a premium light like this just to give it some grip.


----------



## snowlover91

recDNA said:


> Finally some numbers! Thanks VERY much. I'm surprised how well the 63w throws. Sounds like the cool white version would be over 10000. That's good enough for almost all my tasks.
> BTW, I have 2 Zebralights and expect to buy more and I DO care about throw. I would love to see how an XP-L HI would do at the same amp draw as the 63 but it sounds like ZL is attached to the 12 volt driver.
> 
> Now that Vinh has cracked one I'm kind of hoping he mods an MKII with XP-L HI. I would love to see how it could throw.



Wait, Vinh has figured out how to mod a Zebralight?? Would love a link to his post if so, that would be awesome! 

I can can see what Fireclaw is referencing in regards to the feel of the SC63w. The smooth feel I like but if the light was wet or my hands greasy I could see how that might be a problem. It's not an issue for how I use my light but for others depending on what EDC tasks you encounter it definitely could be an issue. I agree some knurling would be nice, they wouldn't have to change the design just put some knurling on the concave portion and leave a small smooth spot for the clip.


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Wait, Vinh has figured out how to mod a Zebralight?? Would love a link to his post if so, that would be awesome!



http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?415443-SC600vn-Best-18650-Light-Ever

He mentioned that nothing really improved the stock. _Nothing I put in makes any worthy upgrade. Sorry guys...

_But give it time...


----------



## gunga

I laughed about the comment but agree, zebralight should have added knurling.


----------



## Tachead

SubLGT said:


> Strange. Do your dinner utensils (forks, spoons, knives) have knurling on them? If a plumber handed you a piece of smooth pipe, would you be able to hold it?



I prefer knurling on my lights and most of my other tools as well. It just gives you better grip and has a nice tactile feel.


----------



## Fireclaw18

markr6 said:


> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?415443-SC600vn-Best-18650-Light-Ever
> 
> He mentioned that nothing really improved the stock. _Nothing I put in makes any worthy upgrade. Sorry guys...
> 
> _But give it time...



If I had a quad noctigon and optic, I'd buy an SC600 Mark III for use as a mod host. I'd remove all the innards and make it into a 4000 lumen quad. Unfortunately, I don't have the Noctigon and I'm not sure it's worth it to spend this kind of money on a mod host just to make another triple.


----------



## snowlover91

markr6 said:


> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?415443-SC600vn-Best-18650-Light-Ever
> 
> He mentioned that nothing really improved the stock. _Nothing I put in makes any worthy upgrade. Sorry guys...
> 
> _But give it time...



Thanks for the link, I wonder how he was able to get into the press fit bezel? Looks like the copper heatsinking is pretty solid and gold/plated screws is pretty cool too. I'm glad to see the potting and heatsinking, no wonder the lights heat up quickly lol. It's interesting how their driver and circuit board is all attached to the LED heatsink.


----------



## scout24

Two posts deleted. While we're all adults, let's keep it PG, please. Family friendly and all...  Thanks!


----------



## markr6

Zebralight just ruined my day 

*"No SC63 'c' or 'd' versions planned."* Bummer! So SC600Fd III Plus will have to do. Or we'll see what Vinh starts doing with them.


----------



## mrg23

got it.


----------



## Tachead

Removed


----------



## recDNA

markr6 said:


> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?415443-SC600vn-Best-18650-Light-Ever
> 
> He mentioned that nothing really improved the stock. _Nothing I put in makes any worthy upgrade. Sorry guys...
> 
> _But give it time...


I'd prefer he cracked an MKII and simply put in an XP-L HI. That seems doable once you get it open. MKIII has weird 12 volt driver.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

mrg23 said:


> Hi guys, I have been following this thread for a couple weeks and have decided to buy both the SC600w MK III and a SC63w. My question is about the HI version of the SC600. Other than greater throw what are the differences between the SC600w MK III and the SC600w MK III HI. I see they both use the XHP35-CCT 4500K. What makes them different?



I believe you said it, only greater throw on the HI, and that's minimal.


----------



## gunga

markr6 said:


> Zebralight just ruined my day
> 
> *"No SC63 'c' or 'd' versions planned."* Bummer! So SC600Fd III Plus will have to do. Or we'll see what Vinh starts doing with them.



Oh? This is confirmed? What a shame. The C tint seems very nice.


----------



## snowlover91

gunga said:


> Oh? This is confirmed? What a shame. The C tint seems very nice.



Hmmm when I emailed them a few weeks ago they said those models were planned but might be awhile before they enter into production or they may not even decide to enter into production... I wonder if they changed their minds?


----------



## fnsooner

mrg23 said:


> Hi guys, I have been following this thread for a couple weeks and have decided to buy both the SC600w MK III and a SC63w. My question is about the HI version of the SC600. Other than greater throw what are the differences between the SC600w MK III and the SC600w MK III HI. I see they both use the XHP35-CCT 4500K. What makes them different?



My opinion is that there is a minimal difference between the SC63w and the SC600w MKIII so far as noticeable output. At least that's what I felt about the SC62w and the SC600w, so I got the 63 and the HI this time around. It seems like I have more bases covered this way. YMMV 

Once I got the SC62w(back in the day), I rarely found a use for the 600. I think with the HI version, this will be different. The HI is impressive.


----------



## fnsooner

markr6 said:


> Zebralight just ruined my day
> 
> *"No SC63 'c' or 'd' versions planned."* Bummer! So SC600Fd III Plus will have to do. Or we'll see what Vinh starts doing with them.


Well good, this means I may not have to buy another flashlight until the SC64w.


----------



## sticktodrum

Hmmm...missed the drama. Shame...


----------



## acefspade

can somebody take a picture of their SC63w next to a H600 or similar zl headlamps? Still curious about the size. Thanks.


----------



## fnsooner

markr6 said:


> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?415443-SC600vn-Best-18650-Light-Ever
> 
> He mentioned that nothing really improved the stock. _Nothing I put in makes any worthy upgrade. Sorry guys...
> 
> _But give it time...


If Vinh is impressed, I am impressed. He calls it the best 18650 light ever. How could I not buy this one. 



vinhnguyen54 said:


> OK so XHP35 HI gets a bit more throw but noticeably less lumen. Not the way to go. However I got better news. ;-)


So there is noticeably less lumens from the neutral HI over the SC600 MK III. Zebralight's specs show a 174 lumen difference. It appears that that is due to the tint differences. I wonder if the HI LED, irrespective of the tint, also sacrifices a few lumens.


----------



## __philippe

acefspade said:


> can somebody take a picture of their SC63w next to a H600 or similar zl headlamps? Still curious about the size. Thanks.



C'mon, look around a bit...like here, ferinstance : 


http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...or-this-year&p=4841982&viewfull=1#post4841982

(That's SC63w vs SC600w, mind you, not SC63 vs H600...)

SC63 length: 93 mm bezel Ø 25 mm
H600 length: 98 mm bezel Ø 25 mm
SC600 length: 96 mm bezel Ø 31 mm


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Hmmm when I emailed them a few weeks ago they said those models were planned but might be awhile before they enter into production or they may not even decide to enter into production... I wonder if they changed their minds?



I just asked that yesterday. But I don't want to believe the response! But at the same time, it saved me another $85.


----------



## Tachead

__philippe said:


> C'mon, look around a bit...like here, ferinstance :
> 
> 
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...or-this-year&p=4841982&viewfull=1#post4841982
> 
> (That's SC63w vs SC600w, mind you, not SC63 vs H600...)
> 
> SC63 length: 93 mm bezel Ø 25 mm
> H600 length: 98 mm bezel Ø 25 mm
> SC600 length: 96 mm bezel Ø 31 mm



The H600 is way smaller then the SC600 so that doesnt really help. I would like to see a pic of the SC63 next to the H600Fd/c MKIII as well. If anyone could post one that has both that would be great:thumbsup:


----------



## recDNA

fnsooner said:


> If Vinh is impressed, I am impressed. He calls it the best 18650 light ever. How could I not buy this one.
> 
> 
> So there is noticeably less lumens from the neutral HI over the SC600 MK III. Zebralight's specs show a 174 lumen difference. It appears that that is due to the tint differences. I wonder if the HI LED, irrespective of the tint, also sacrifices a few lumens.


Then what is the point of the HI?


----------



## gunga

It acts like more of a point source. You get a little bit less output but quite a bit more throw. You could also dedome a standard LED but then you end up with a lot of tint shift and an extra delicate LED.


----------



## emarkd

...and less output. Dedoming always reduces output, whether done at home by a modder or from the factory. It's not a huge difference though. Most people wouldn't be able to tell just by looking. The increase in candela is noticeable though, as is the change in beam shape. 

That's what it comes down to. Want a broad beam with lots of spill? Normal mk3. Want a more focused beam with extra throw? Mk3 HI.


----------



## eraursls1984

emarkd said:


> ...and less output. Dedoming always reduces output, whether done at home by a modder or from the factory. It's not a huge difference though. Most people wouldn't be able to tell just by looking. The increase in candela is noticeable though, as is the change in beam shape.
> 
> That's what it comes down to. Want a broad beam with lots of spill? Normal mk3. Want a more focused beam with extra throw? Mk3 HI.


I thought the whole point of the HI was to give similar throw as a dedomed LED, but without the lose of lumens associated with it. HI LEDs aren't dedomed, but have a much smaller dome to protect the LED.


----------



## emarkd

eraursls1984 said:


> I thought the whole point of the HI was to give similar throw as a dedomed LED, but without the lose of lumens associated with it. HI LEDs aren't dedomed, but have a much smaller dome to protect the LED.


I think it's probably more accurate to say that the point of HI emitters is to give similar throw as a de-domed led but without the tint shift that comes from dedoming. An HI emitter can have the same tint as it's normal domed counterpart whereas a de-domed emitter will always tint shift to a warmer part of the spectrum, often introducing off-colors like green in the process.


----------



## fnsooner

recDNA said:


> Then what is the point of the HI?



Good question. Considering this light has only been out for less than a week and only a few observations have been posted, I don’t know. It is a question we are all are wondering about, including myself and I own one.

There are a lot of variables to sort out.

If you are only going to get one of the newer models(63, 600 and 600 Hi), that is a tough choice. I would get the 63w. No question.

The HI only comes in neutral so if you want cool white only then the HI is eliminated.

If you want to get the 63w and one of the 600s, I chose to go with the HI. I made this choice based on the last generation. If you go by selfbuilts numbers the 62 had 1000 lumens and 173m of throw, and the 600 had 1040 lumens and 210m of throw. Those specs were too close for me to invest in the MKII and I chose to skip it. I did own a first gen SC600 and it was basically never used again after I bought my SC62w.

As far as I can remember, there have only been two people to compare the 600 III and the 600 HI III against each other. That was vinh and Screwball69N. Coincidently, they both were comparing the neutral HI against the cool white non-HI. That right there skews the observations by almost 200 lumens. It also seems like they said something like the HI doesn’t seem to throw significantly more. It is still more.

To get a reasonable point of view of the differences between the HI and the regular then we probably need someone to go head to head with both being neutral and get the lumen count and the lux readings. 

I think based on the observations and comments from vinh and Screwball, if you own the cool white SC600 III, then the neutral HI variant is probably not a needed purchase. 

The only lights I can comment on are the SC63w and the SC600w HI III. I own both. There is a significant difference in beam profile and the 600 HI model throws significantly farther. I am glad I got this combo.

Every one has their own needs in a flashlight and I am all about the SC6Xw series. The 63 was going to be bought regardless. I doubt I would have bought the SC600w HI if it were only in cool white and I have little interest in the SC600 series in general. So I probably wouldn’t have bought the SC600 MK III even if the HI didn’t exist. Especially if the difference between the 63w and 600w III is similar to last generation.

So from my perspective, if you are going to buy one and it is for EDC, buy the SC63w. If you are going to buy two of the three, buy the 63 and the HI. If you are going to buy one only and frequent pocket carry isn’t required then buy the SC600w MK III.

The question I want to know the answer to is, is there a lumen discrepancy between the SC600w MK III and the SC600w HI MK III?


----------



## psychbeat

^^A HI emitter will have slightly less lumens than a regular domed emitter of the same tint.


----------



## markr6

Good summary fnsooner. Also, I find the beam pattern between the SC63w and SC600w (not HI) a lot different as well. Big wide hotspot on the SC63w. But your logic still holds, even more with the HI you are comparing.


----------



## acefspade

fnsooner said:


> Good question. Considering this light has only been out for less than a week and only a few observations have been posted, I don’t know. It is a question we are all are wondering about, including myself and I own one.
> 
> There are a lot of variables to sort out.
> 
> If you are only going to get one of the newer models(63, 600 and 600 Hi), that is a tough choice. I would get the 63w. No question.
> 
> The HI only comes in neutral so if you want cool white only then the HI is eliminated.
> 
> If you want to get the 63w and one of the 600s, I chose to go with the HI. I made this choice based on the last generation. If you go by selfbuilts numbers the 62 had 1000 lumens and 173 feet of throw, and the 600 had 1040 lumens and 210 feet of throw. Those specs were too close for me to invest in the MKII and I chose to skip it. I did own a first gen SC600 and it was basically never used again after I bought my SC62w.
> 
> As far as I can remember, there have only been two people to compare the 600 III and the 600 HI III against each other. That was vinh and Screwball69N. Coincidently, they both were comparing the neutral HI against the cool white non-HI. That right there scews the observations by almost 200 lumens. It also seems like they said something like the HI doesn’t seem through significantly more. It is still more.
> 
> To get a reasonable point of view of the differences between the HI and the regular then we probably need someone to go head to head with both being neutral and get the lumen count and the lux readings.
> 
> I think based on the observations and comments from vinh and Screwball, if you own the cool white SC600 III, then the neutral HI variant is probably not a needed purchase.
> 
> The only lights I can comment on are the SC63w and the SC600w HI III. I own both. There is a significant difference in beam profile and the 600 HI model throws significantly farther. I am glad I got this combo.
> 
> Every one has their own needs in a flashlight and I am all about the SC6Xw series. The 63 was going to be bought regardless. I doubt I would have bought the SC600w HI if it were only in cool white and I have little interest in the SC600 series in general. So I probably wouldn’t have bought the SC600 MK III even if the HI didn’t exist. Especially if the difference between the 63w and 600w III is similar to last generation.
> 
> So from my perspective, if you are going to buy one and it is for EDC, buy the SC63w. If you are going to buy two of the three, buy the 63 and the HI. If you are going to buy one only and frequent pocket carry isn’t required then buy the SC600w MK III.
> 
> The question I want to know the answer to is, is there a lumen discrepancy between the SC600w MK III and the SC600w HI MK III?



Thanks, that easily helped me with my decision. Can't wait for the SC63W. Hope it ships out before March.


----------



## fnsooner

psychbeat said:


> ^^A HI emitter will have slightly less lumens than a regular domed emitter of the same tint.


Thanks, I thought I had read something like that somewhere.


----------



## Fireclaw18

That programmable PID is pretty nice. Just tried it on my SC63w.

Unfortunately, with my SC63w wearing a rubber sweater (to improve grip), the head gets really hot really fast if I ramp up the PID. I'll have to leave it stock, or remove the sleeve to improve heat transfer.


----------



## recDNA

fnsooner said:


> Good question. Considering this light has only been out for less than a week and only a few observations have been posted, I don’t know. It is a question we are all are wondering about, including myself and I own one.
> 
> There are a lot of variables to sort out.
> 
> If you are only going to get one of the newer models(63, 600 and 600 Hi), that is a tough choice. I would get the 63w. No question.
> 
> The HI only comes in neutral so if you want cool white only then the HI is eliminated.
> 
> If you want to get the 63w and one of the 600s, I chose to go with the HI. I made this choice based on the last generation. If you go by selfbuilts numbers the 62 had 1000 lumens and 173 feet of throw, and the 600 had 1040 lumens and 210 feet of throw. Those specs were too close for me to invest in the MKII and I chose to skip it. I did own a first gen SC600 and it was basically never used again after I bought my SC62w.
> 
> As far as I can remember, there have only been two people to compare the 600 III and the 600 HI III against each other. That was vinh and Screwball69N. Coincidently, they both were comparing the neutral HI against the cool white non-HI. That right there scews the observations by almost 200 lumens. It also seems like they said something like the HI doesn’t seem to throw significantly more. It is still more.
> 
> To get a reasonable point of view of the differences between the HI and the regular then we probably need someone to go head to head with both being neutral and get the lumen count and the lux readings.
> 
> I think based on the observations and comments from vinh and Screwball, if you own the cool white SC600 III, then the neutral HI variant is probably not a needed purchase.
> 
> The only lights I can comment on are the SC63w and the SC600w HI III. I own both. There is a significant difference in beam profile and the 600 HI model throws significantly farther. I am glad I got this combo.
> 
> Every one has their own needs in a flashlight and I am all about the SC6Xw series. The 63 was going to be bought regardless. I doubt I would have bought the SC600w HI if it were only in cool white and I have little interest in the SC600 series in general. So I probably wouldn’t have bought the SC600 MK III even if the HI didn’t exist. Especially if the difference between the 63w and 600w III is similar to last generation.
> 
> So from my perspective, if you are going to buy one and it is for EDC, buy the SC63w. If you are going to buy two of the three, buy the 63 and the HI. If you are going to buy one only and frequent pocket carry isn’t required then buy the SC600w MK III.
> 
> The question I want to know the answer to is, is there a lumen discrepancy between the SC600w MK III and the SC600w HI MK III?


I expected the HI to throw MUCH further. If not I would prefer 5700k. Really at this point I'm waiting to see what is up with the HI CRI model that may come out this summer. I have no interest in 63. I will stick with my 62w. I do not need a few more lumens but an 800 lumen HI CRI model does attract my interest. I think it should be the 63 but it will be the 600 so I'll have to wait and see. If the 600 is uncomfortable in my pocket I may still grab one for my jacket.


----------



## markr6

recDNA said:


> I expected the HI to throw MUCH further. If not I would prefer 5700k. Really at this point I'm waiting to see what is up with the HI CRI model that may come out this summer. I have no interest in 63. I will stick with my 62w. I do not need a few more lumens but an 800 lumen HI CRI model does attract my interest. I think it should be the 63 but it will be the 600 so I'll have to wait and see. If the 600 is uncomfortable in my pocket I may still grab one for my jacket.



I'm going to wait as well. I think that high CRI may be too floody for me. In that case, I'll just go back to the SC600w MKIII. And probably still keep the high CRI, because, it's high CRI!!


----------



## fnsooner

recDNA said:


> I have no interest in 63. I will stick with my 62w. I do not need a few more lumens...



I think that is a wise and frugal decision. After a week of carrying the 63, you want to know what the difference between it and the 62 is in a practical sense? Nothing. That is a good thing though. ZL kept all the things that make the 62 great and made it greater.

Work has been pretty busy and I have been using my 63 a bunch. It is business as usual. A guy at work was trying to get me to sell him my 62 to him. I said “nah”.

I am still glad I bought the 63.


----------



## Tachead

Fireclaw18 said:


> That programmable PID is pretty nice. Just tried it on my SC63w.
> 
> Unfortunately, with my SC63w wearing a rubber sweater (to improve grip), the head gets really hot really fast if I ramp up the PID. I'll have to leave it stock, or remove the sleeve to improve heat transfer.



You dont need to worry as the PID will only let the head get so hot and will further reduce output if needed. Here is some extra info if you didnt see it in the other threads...

[FONT=&quot]Subject: PID Thermal Regulation Programming

There won't be any issues with the emitter or any other electronic components in the light because ALL of them are rated at 85C or higher. We set the limit of 5 degree C max so that even with our highest factory default settings (52C), you'll still be below the working temp range of a li-ion battery (typically 60C in 2012 when the S6330 was designed). 

Sincerely,

ZebraLight, Inc.[/FONT]


----------



## Fireclaw18

Tachead said:


> You dont need to worry as the PID will only let the head get so hot and will further reduce output if needed. Here is some extra info if you didnt see it in the other threads...
> 
> Subject: PID Thermal Regulation Programming
> 
> There won't be any issues with the emitter or any other electronic components in the light because ALL of them are rated at 85C or higher. We set the limit of 5 degree C max so that even with our highest factory default settings (52C), you'll still be below the working temp range of a li-ion battery (typically 60C in 2012 when the S6330 was designed).
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> ZebraLight, Inc.



I agree that adjusting the PID shouldn't damage the LED or the light. However, with the rubber sleeve on and the PID ramped up, I quickly found the head became too hot to comfortably touch. I reverted to default PID settings to keep the light touchable.


----------



## Tachead

Fireclaw18 said:


> I agree that adjusting the PID shouldn't damage the LED or the light. However, with the rubber sleeve on and the PID ramped up, I quickly found the head became too hot to comfortably touch. I reverted to default PID settings to keep the light touchable.



Right. I did the same with my H600Fc/d MKIII's for the same reason. At the lowest setting the head only gets to 39-40C after about 5 minutes in H1. I dont suspect it will get much hotter then that even after sustained use(maybe in hot weather but, it cant get any hotter then 47C as that is what the PID is set to now). Another thing that I noticed is that H1 is still considerably brighter then H3 even after the PID has reduced the output for the conditions.


----------



## awyeah

Is there any possible way to run a protected battery in this light? I'm not that keen on running unprotected. Convince me why I shouldn't be concerned!


----------



## snowlover91

awyeah said:


> Is there any possible way to run a protected battery in this light? I'm not that keen on running unprotected. Convince me why I shouldn't be concerned!



No unfortunately not. Flat top unprotected only. ZL uses a system in their light to monitor the battery to ensure it doesn't go too low on voltage and to protect it from getting too hot as well. If you have a good quality charger and practice safe handling of lithium cells, which everyone should anyways, then you shouldn't have any issues at all. The main thing protected cells protect against is over discharge, overcharging and too high of an amp draw. The ZL protection will protect against the over discharge and the discharge rate to keep the battery within safe limits. A good quality charger will guard against overcharging. Hope that helps!


----------



## markr6

Not sure if I'm using this app correctly, but sounds right to me. I will read up on it a little more. Worth $1.99 to satisfy my curiosity 

SC63w (4500K)


----------



## Fireclaw18

Now with a better grip sleeve. I took the sleeve from a FlexPro LP290 budget light:


----------



## oeL

psychbeat said:


> ^^A HI emitter will have slightly less lumens than a regular domed emitter of the same tint.



Does someone know why this is so? Does the dome help in heat dissipation from the die?


----------



## Fireclaw18

oeL said:


> Does someone know why this is so? Does the dome help in heat dissipation from the die?



Do a Google search for "DrJones dedoming". First result of the search should be his excellent article titled "Flashlight Optics - Dome, Dedoming and Throw". This should be a mandatory read for all flashaholics. This article gives you the complete explanation of what the dome does. 

Short answer: The dome increases overall lumens, by reducing total internal reflection (TIR) inside the LED crystal. However, in doing so it also reduces luminous intensity, so you get less throw.


----------



## Streak

Wow! 24 pages and over 700 posts!
Now where can I find a review on the SC63??

I have EDC'd the SC51 and now the first version SC52W for years.
I'm figuring it's time to up the game to an 18650 EDC (I have many 18650 lights but all too big to EDC).

I like what I have read so far but looking for a hands on review maybe even comparing it to the SC52.
Anyone?

Thanks.


----------



## JStraus

Streak said:


> Wow! 24 pages and over 700 posts!
> Now where can I find a review on the SC63??
> 
> I have EDC'd the SC51 and now the first version SC52W for years.
> I'm figuring it's time to up the game to an 18650 EDC (I have many 18650 lights but all too big to EDC).
> 
> I like what I have read so far but looking for a hands on review maybe even comparing it to the SC52.
> Anyone?
> 
> Thanks.



Oh, gosh, your expectations are pretty unreasonable! This thread only allows about 10% of the total content to be related to the title of the thread!


----------



## psychbeat

Streak said:


> Wow! 24 pages and over 700 posts!
> Now where can I find a review on the SC63??
> 
> I have EDC'd the SC51 and now the first version SC52W for years.
> I'm figuring it's time to up the game to an 18650 EDC (I have many 18650 lights but all too big to EDC).
> 
> I like what I have read so far but looking for a hands on review maybe even comparing it to the SC52.
> Anyone?
> 
> Thanks.



Yah dude - this is the "MOAR springs n things" thread 

There're a few pics and detailed impressions of the 63 a few pages back. Or maybe in one of the other threads? Just go back like 20pages n start from there and learn about how important springs are to happiness. 
I haven't seen a formal review yet.


----------



## eraursls1984

psychbeat said:


> Yah dude - this is the "MOAR springs n things" thread
> 
> There're a few pics and detailed impressions of the 63 a few pages back. Or maybe in one of the other threads? Just go back like 20pages n start from there and learn about how important springs are to happiness.
> I haven't seen a formal review yet.


You forgot about battries.


----------



## snowlover91

Streak said:


> Wow! 24 pages and over 700 posts!
> Now where can I find a review on the SC63??
> 
> I have EDC'd the SC51 and now the first version SC52W for years.
> I'm figuring it's time to up the game to an 18650 EDC (I have many 18650 lights but all too big to EDC).
> 
> I like what I have read so far but looking for a hands on review maybe even comparing it to the SC52.
> Anyone?
> 
> Thanks.



I don't have the SC52 but have the SC5w and can compare that with my SC63w. Tint is definitely better on the SC63 and it's much lighter than my SC5. Hotspot is similar in size for both lights but the tint is improved on the SC63, a nice neutral. Batteries are only flat top unprotected which I have no issues with, a spring on the tailcap and pogo pins at the positive terminal end. The new design is smooth in the middle of the SC63, it can be a little slick so the knurling on the SC5 wins out there. Haven't done any runtime tests yet for my SC63. Overall from a size and weight standpoint the SC63 is superior and if you don't mind using flattop unprotected cells and the lack of knurling then the extra output, CRI and runtime increases due to 18650 cell make it a good choice.


----------



## PorscheFreak

Hey good evening guys, 

I have been following this thread , and was hoping that maybe some one could answer a few questions regarding the SC63. I would greatly appreciate it. 

I'm somewhat new to the hobby of flashlights, so please bare with me while I learn. 

I have been following the sc63 since I saw the release. I currently carry an led lenser f4 for my edc, and would like to upgrade to the sc63 for my edc. I carry a firearm,and a pocket knife everyday, and do not think the additional size of the sc63 would be any issue. 

Is anyone carrying sc63 with a firearm and knife? Is it uncomfortable, or to heavy? 

I have had issues with my current edc light clicking on in my pocket. It looks like the sc63's recessed button would help in that issue not happening. Has anyone had that happen? 


I have seen mutiple different battery's listed as options, could someone point me in the right direction of the best battery option for maximum brightness/longevity? I also currently don't own a charger, if you would not mind letting me know a decent unit that's on the cheaper side, that would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks you in advance for any help with this. I look forward to learning about different lights, and enjoying this hobby with you. 

Anthony


----------



## Streak

snowlover91 said:


> I don't have the SC52 but have the SC5w and can compare that with my SC63w. Tint is definitely better on the SC63 and it's much lighter than my SC5. Hotspot is similar in size for both lights but the tint is improved on the SC63, a nice neutral. Batteries are only flat top unprotected which I have no issues with, a spring on the tailcap and pogo pins at the positive terminal end. The new design is smooth in the middle of the SC63, it can be a little slick so the knurling on the SC5 wins out there. Haven't done any runtime tests yet for my SC63. Overall from a size and weight standpoint the SC63 is superior and if you don't mind using flattop unprotected cells and the lack of knurling then the extra output, CRI and runtime increases due to 18650 cell make it a good choice.



Thanks for this. I have no problem with flat top unprotected cells, in fact I have a huge number of them harvested from laptop batteries and ordered some high current IMR ones for the BLF X5 and X6 lights.
I am yet to find another light with the great Zebra UI and the SC52 style pocket clip that I have become so used to and have edc'd for so many years.
It will be such a quantum leap after my old SC52 that I'm sure I'll be happy with it.
Now it's just a question of inventory levels!!


----------



## gunga

Sigh. I still have no shipping notice, but you guys got to me.

I have re-wrapped most of my bare 18650's in clear shrink tubing. No more rattle. I have 1 small brass 18650 light that won't accept anything but bare cells but I have enough to power that one. It's funny how peer pressure warps the mind...


----------



## sticktodrum

Nifty, ain't it?  Can't wait for the SC63w, eventually stock will catch up.


----------



## Gej785

PorscheFreak said:


> Hey good evening guys,
> 
> I have been following this thread , and was hoping that maybe some one could answer a few questions regarding the SC63. I would greatly appreciate it.
> 
> I'm somewhat new to the hobby of flashlights, so please bare with me while I learn.
> 
> I have been following the sc63 since I saw the release. I currently carry an led lenser f4 for my edc, and would like to upgrade to the sc63 for my edc. I carry a firearm,and a pocket knife everyday, and do not think the additional size of the sc63 would be any issue.
> 
> Is anyone carrying sc63 with a firearm and knife? Is it uncomfortable, or to heavy?
> 
> I have had issues with my current edc light clicking on in my pocket. It looks like the sc63's recessed button would help in that issue not happening. Has anyone had that happen?
> 
> 
> I have seen mutiple different battery's listed as options, could someone point me in the right direction of the best battery option for maximum brightness/longevity? I also currently don't own a charger, if you would not mind letting me know a decent unit that's on the cheaper side, that would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks you in advance for any help with this. I look forward to learning about different lights, and enjoying this hobby with you.
> 
> Anthony



First off, welcome to CPF! I don't carry a handgun on my person all the time but I do carry a large ZT knife and a SC600 MK III. I think the SC63 is an excellent choice for everyday carry. It's nearly the same light as the SC600 but due to the larger head, the SC600 will have a better throw and stay on high longer because the heat can transfer though more metal and disperse better. I have the SC62 and love it. Get the NCR18650GA Sanyo flat top batteries and a Fenix ARE-X1 for a charger and you'll be set!


----------



## gunga

Nice. Finally got shipping notice!


----------



## acefspade

gunga said:


> Nice. Finally got shipping notice!



nice when was your order date? jealous...


----------



## gunga

January 15th. I missed the first window. Shipping took 2 months for me last time I ordered from zebralight direct. Hope it's much faster this time.


----------



## Fireclaw18

Now that I've had a week with my SC63w, I find I'm really liking it. It's my favorite Zebralight so far.

I decided to leave the grip sleeve from the FlexPro LP290 on it. The head and tailcap are wider than the body tube, so the sleeve has a natural slot to fit in. It actually looks like it was made for the light. The sleeve alone turns what was my most slippery light into my grippiest!

Light output is higher than any of my other Zebras. Also, so far at least (fingers crossed), I haven't experienced any of the problems many of other Zebras with the light not staying in turbo mode. It seems rock solid dependable.

If there's any inductor hum on H2, I can't hear it with the grip sleeve on. And there's no battery rattle (using NCR18650B).


----------



## markr6

Same here. I even ordered a second SC63w I like it so much. No whine, no rattle...but I don't believe those were issues on the SC63; only the SC600 III.


----------



## tonkem

I ordered 1/13. No shipping notice yet. I am in Texas USA.


----------



## Shiftyfive

I'm located in TX too. I inquired today about my order placed on 1/11 and they stated that another batch will be shipped out in the next 3-7 days.


----------



## Flashgas

Shiftyfive said:


> I'm located in TX too. I inquired today about my order placed on 1/11 and they stated that another batch will be shipped out in the next 3-7 days.


This gives me hope that notice will be sent soon


----------



## gregorv

Hello

I would like to buy sc63 or sc63w. Which model do you recommend? Will I notice the difference in lumens (1300 vs 1126)?
I'm from Europe, do you maybe know where can I but this flashlight for good price?

Thank you

Kind regards


----------



## emarkd

I always buy the 'w' but then I much prefer neutral (or even slightly warm) tints. Cool white isn't for me. Some people like it though. No, you won't notice the difference in lumens.


----------



## snowlover91

gregorv said:


> Hello
> 
> I would like to buy sc63 or sc63w. Which model do you recommend? Will I notice the difference in lumens (1300 vs 1126)?
> I'm from Europe, do you maybe know where can I but this flashlight for good price?
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Kind regards



The difference in ~200 lumens is hard to tell with the human eye when you are at 1000+ lumens. I would go with the neutral version, the SC63w, as it will give you better color rendition.


----------



## oeL

gregorv said:


> I'm from Europe, do you maybe know where can I but this flashlight for good price?



nkon.nl told me that they will have it soon in stock - together with the SC600w MKIII. Last time I have ordered there, everything was fine.
Ordering directly from Zebralight is an option, but the free shipping may take quite a time (from China). DHL is a bit more expensive, but always worked like a charm (3 to 5 working days to Germany after Zebra has shipped the parcel).


----------



## gregorv

Thank you for your answers.
I will buy w version. I also perfer neutral colors. 

Yes, I checked nkon.nl but this FL was our of stock. It's good to know that they will soon have it on stock again. 

I'm not familiar with zebra light company. Is this company from China? If yes, why we can't buy zebra FL in stores like gearbest, banggood ...?

Last question. Is this FL the most powerfull *small *FL (max lumens) on the market today?

Thank you


----------



## eraursls1984

gregorv said:


> Thank you for your answers.
> I will buy w version. I also perfer neutral colors.
> 
> Yes, I checked nkon.nl but this FL was our of stock. It's good to know that they will soon have it on stock again.
> 
> I'm not familiar with zebra light company. Is this company from China? If yes, why we can't buy zebra FL in stores like gearbest, banggood ...?
> 
> Last question. Is this FL the most powerfull *small *FL (max lumens) on the market today?
> 
> Thank you


Zebralight is an American company with manufacturing done in China.


----------



## gregorv

OK. 
I got email from nkon.nl that they will have it on stock in 2 to 4 weeks. 
Kind regards


----------



## Lumencrazy

eraursls1984 said:


> Zebralight is an American company with manufacturing done in China.




Zebralight is a Chineese company with American distribution.


----------



## eraursls1984

Lumencrazy said:


> Zebralight is a Chineese company with American distribution.


How do you know this? They say "American owned and operated", "designed and engineered in the USA."


----------



## markr6

Actually, we've beaten, slaughtered, cooked, eaten and defecated this horse to no end in the past.

They are a small company in Texas. Manufacturing is done in China. They ship some lights directly from China, and some from their Texas location (to US customers only). I believe the owner is a US citizen of Chinese descent. But that doesn't mean they are not a US company.


----------



## ntalbot

In for one SC63w.
BTW Gearbest has pairs of NCR18650GA's on sale. Seems like a great price to me, BUT don't use the CPF coupon code! If you do, the price will be $2 extra -- yeah, weird.


----------



## jak

So, I ordered 1/1/2016... and today I just got a notice that says... "New Order #106....." It's a replica of the email I got when I placed my order back in January. This isn't a shipping notice, is it? On my account, the status has gone from "pending..." to "new." Has any one else experienced this?

*UPDATE:* Just got ANOTHER one of these, and it has a shipping number attached. I take that as a shipping notice.


----------



## tonkem

Ordered 1/13, got the same as Jak, new order, then a shipping notice. Now the waiting for it to be delivered. Hopefully shipped from Texas to Texas, should have in a couple days


----------



## cmd

Ordered 1/4 and just got an email from Zebralight , opened the email and it was just another order confirmation :tired:


----------



## cmd

Got two more emails and a tracking number, should be in my hands by the end of this week. Yay!


----------



## snowlover91

Usually when ZL is preparing them for shipment you'll get a notice or two about your order and it changes the status to a "new order." My experience has been I receive an actual shipping notice or tracking number within 12-24 hours of receiving these emails so you should all be receiving your lights soon!


----------



## jak

tonkem said:


> Ordered 1/13, got the same as Jak, new order, then a shipping notice. Now the waiting for it to be delivered. Hopefully shipped from Texas to Texas, should have in a couple days


Yep, we're _really_ close. If it was actually shipped today (3/1) then there's a chance we could even see them tomorrow!


----------



## emarkd

Hmm...my order still says "Processing" and I haven't gotten any new emails. I didn't order until early February, after the first round of lights were delivered and good reports were being posted, but I did check with Zebralight upon placing my order and was told 3-4 weeks lead time. Hope they're right and I get in on this batch.


----------



## Shiftyfive

tonkem said:


> Ordered 1/13, got the same as Jak, new order, then a shipping notice. Now the waiting for it to be delivered. Hopefully shipped from Texas to Texas, should have in a couple days



Ordered mine on 1/11 and still haven't seen a shipping notice or change in order status.


----------



## henry1960

Shiftyfive said:


> Ordered mine on 1/11 and still haven't seen a shipping notice or change in order status.



Reordered another on 1/16 and no shipping notice either....:huh:


----------



## tonkem

Mine is out for delivery. One day shipping from Texas to Texas. [emoji4]


----------



## Shiftyfive

tonkem said:


> Mine is out for delivery. One day shipping from Texas to Texas. [emoji4]



Did you order the SC63, or the SC63w?


----------



## Tixx

Alright. Ordered January 1st and it is finally shipping. Jeez! Something is wrong down south. Get in on day one and mess up 2 pre orders in a row. 

Anyways... Anyone have this thing chop shopped for an 18350 yet? I need to find someone to do 2 of them.


----------



## tonkem

Cool white. Received the light. Now charging the battery, after I just charged my meteor batteries all day! They won't fit in the light and I have no other unprotected batteries to use in this light, that are flat top. The button top unprotected LG's I have in my Meteor are too long. 



Shiftyfive said:


> Did you order the SC63, or the SC63w?


----------



## jak

tonkem said:


> Cool white. Received the light. Now charging the battery, after I just charged my meteor batteries all day! They won't fit in the light and I have no other unprotected batteries to use in this light, that are flat top. The button top unprotected LG's I have in my Meteor are too long.


Got mine today. It arrived with the 2 batteries I ordered (now charging), but didn't include the SC600 HI I ordered. 

Half yay, half bummer.


----------



## Boro

tonkem said:


> I ordered 1/13. No shipping notice yet. I am in Texas USA.


Ordered 1/1/16, just got my 63W. FYI


----------



## snowlover91

jak said:


> Got mine today. It arrived with the 2 batteries I ordered (now charging), but didn't include the SC600 HI I ordered.
> 
> Half yay, half bummer.



When will your HI arrive? What do you think of the SC63?

Mine took its first drop today. My SC62w I never dropped on concrete or hardwood floors in the 1+ year I've owned it. My wife was using my SC63w and dropped it bezel down on concrete, a loud thud. Picked the light up, turned it on and everything works perfectly and the glass lens is fine no scratches. A small dent in the bezel but that's expected from a drop like that on concrete, the anodizing held up well!


----------



## jak

snowlover91 said:


> When will your HI arrive? What do you think of the SC63?
> 
> Mine took its first drop today. My SC62w I never dropped on concrete or hardwood floors in the 1+ year I've owned it. My wife was using my SC63w and dropped it bezel down on concrete, a loud thud. Picked the light up, turned it on and everything works perfectly and the glass lens is fine no scratches. A small dent in the bezel but that's expected from a drop like that on concrete, the anodizing held up well!


Sorry to hear about your new dent. Bugger.

I contacted ZL and they said my HI will arrive next week. Waiting is the worst. The SC63, on the other hand, is fantastic! Here are a few first impressions:



With no battery, it is freakishly lightweight. But I guess most Zebralights are, I'm just not used to holding them sans battery.
The build quality is flawless.
It feels so great to hold, noticeably more comfortable than the 62 (my opinion, obvi).
After studying it, holding it, playing with it... it makes the 62 seem/feel old and clunky. I quite like it very much already!
I like keeping H2 at 500+ lumens. I never liked that on the 62 the brightest H2 level appeared too close to H1. On this, the brightest H2 is plenty bright, but considerably less bright than H1.
Tint is satisfactory. Not the best not the worst.
It has the spring tailcap, I would have preferred the pogo pins (merely because it seems cooler to me).

Overall, first impression has been wonderful. It's so small and thin, I don't even think of it as a flashlight... It's more like a battery case that happens to have a freakishly bright LED attached to it.

I will most likely sell my SC62w as a result.

Here's a comparison picture next to a pretty small AA light (Xeno ES1).


----------



## markr6

Looking good! I ordered a second SC63w, but apparently I will have to wait a long time.


----------



## Tachead

jak said:


> Sorry to hear about your new dent. Bugger.
> 
> I contacted ZL and they said my HI will arrive next week. Waiting is the worst. The SC63, on the other hand, is fantastic! Here are a few first impressions:
> 
> 
> 
> With no battery, it is freakishly lightweight. But I guess most Zebralights are, I'm just not used to holding them sans battery.
> The build quality is flawless.
> It feels so great to hold, noticeably more comfortable than the 62 (my opinion, obvi).
> After studying it, holding it, playing with it... it makes the 62 seem/feel old and clunky. I quite like it very much already!
> I like keeping H2 at 500+ lumens. I never liked that on the 62 the brightest H2 level appeared too close to H1. On this, the brightest H2 is plenty bright, but considerably less bright than H1.
> *Tint is satisfactory. Not the best not the worst.*
> It has the spring tailcap, I would have preferred the pogo pins (merely because it seems cooler to me).
> 
> Overall, first impression has been wonderful. It's so small and thin, I don't even think of it as a flashlight... It's more like a battery case that happens to have a freakishly bright LED attached to it.
> 
> I will most likely sell my SC62w as a result.
> 
> Here's a comparison picture next to a pretty small AA light (Xeno ES1).



Can you describe the tint a bit please? Vinh really didnt like the tint of the MKIIIw models either. I am guessing they use the same XHP35 emitter.


----------



## newbie66

Yes, pls describe. Vinh said tint too yellow. Might determine whether I would get the HI model.


----------



## Tachead

newbie66 said:


> Yes, pls describe. Vinh said tint too yellow. Might determine whether I would get the HI model.



The Hi model will not have the same tint as the regular MKIIIw and SC63w as it uses the Hi emitter and domeless/dedomed emitters have a different tint then the same emitter with a dome.


----------



## newbie66

Tachead said:


> The Hi model will not have the same tint as the regular MKIIIw and SC63w as it uses the Hi emitter and domeless/dedomed emitters have a different tint then the same emitter with a dome.



Without seeing it in person I am guessing that it might be more yellow than the MkIIIw due the dedome.


----------



## Fireclaw18

Tachead said:


> The Hi model will not have the same tint as the regular MKIIIw and SC63w as it uses the Hi emitter and domeless/dedomed emitters have a different tint then the same emitter with a dome.



True when it comes to amateur dedoming. The phosphor on the LED is optimized for the dome. When you remove the dome on CREE LEDs tint changes towards green and becomes approximately 1500K warmer.

*NOT *true when it comes to HI emitters. I don't own an XHP 35 HI, but I do own many XPL HI emitters.

Because CREE itself manufactures the HI emittters, they carefully optimized the phosphor specifically for use without a dome. The result is tint that is every bit as good as a fully domed emitter. No hint of green and the same tint ranges as the traditional domes. Intensity is much higher (for more throw), while overall lumens are slightly lower.

This is why us flashlight modders aren't dedoming XPLs anymore. XPL HI produces virtually the same result with vastly better tint.


----------



## jak

Tachead said:


> Can you describe the tint a bit please? Vinh really didnt like the tint of the MKIIIw models either. I am guessing they use the same XHP35 emitter.


Sure thing. It's one of those tints where when you shine it on a white wall by itself, it looks perfectly adequate. Then when you introduce another beam that has a better tint, it all of a sudden becomes inferior. It's slightly warmer than what I would define as truly neutral. It's reminiscent of pages in an old book.

Tonight I will do mug shots with my SC5, SC62w, SC62d.


----------



## scs

newbie66 said:


> Without seeing it in person I am guessing that it might be more yellow than the MkIIIw due the dedome.



XHP HI is undomed, not dedomed, so no tint shift from dedoming.


----------



## psychbeat

One nice benefit of domeless emitters, besides improved throw, is a more consistent tint between spill and spot when used in a reflector.


----------



## markr6

jak said:


> Sure thing. It's one of those tints where when you shine it on a white wall by itself, it looks perfectly adequate. Then when you introduce another beam that has a better tint, it all of a sudden becomes inferior. It's slightly warmer than what I would define as truly neutral. It's reminiscent of pages in an old book.



Good description!


----------



## mrg23

I placed an order for an sc600 HI and an sc63w on 2/18 from zebralight. Yesterday I received an email saying that they would be shipped in 5-10 business days. My timing must have been right as I see some of you having to wait about 8 weeks for lights.


----------



## Tachead

jak said:


> Sure thing. It's one of those tints where when you shine it on a white wall by itself, it looks perfectly adequate. Then when you introduce another beam that has a better tint, it all of a sudden becomes inferior. It's slightly warmer than what I would define as truly neutral. It's reminiscent of pages in an old book.
> 
> Tonight I will do mug shots with my SC5, SC62w, SC62d.



Thanks. Sounds like I would like it as I prefer CCT's toward the warmer side of neutral. 5000K, for example, is too cool for a lot of uses imo. 4000-4500K seams to be the sweet spot for outdoor uses at least imo. It is also important that the tint is as close to the black body radiation line as possible. 

I look forward to your beam shots. Thanks again:thumbsup:


----------



## acefspade

I was just told my sc63 will ship next week, a new batch of sc63/63w will be ready to ship. My order date was 2/13/16.


----------



## Tixx

Definitely need to find someone to remove a section and make it an 18350 light!


----------



## jak

Tachead said:


> I look forward to your beam shots. Thanks again:thumbsup:


I'm far from a photographer, but here's my effort to capture tint.

Hot spots are almost washed out, so focus on the corona to get an idea of what it would be like in real life.





All lights L1





All lights M2

Can't wait to throw my SC600 III HI into the mix when that arrives.


----------



## tops2

Thanks for the beam shots! Hm..it looks much more yellow to me when compared to the SC5w (what I have). Does the SC63w look notability more yellow than the SC5w in person?

I remembered Vinh in his video for the MKIII mentioning the "w" version looking more dirty yellow vs the cool white or something to that effect..


----------



## newbie66

Nice beamshots, thx!
Now we will just need to wait for the HI to compare.


----------



## newbie66

scs said:


> XHP HI is undomed, not dedomed, so no tint shift from dedoming.



I hope so. I am still scratching my head on what to get.


----------



## newbie66

tops2 said:


> Thanks for the beam shots! Hm..it looks much more yellow to me when compared to the SC5w (what I have). Does the SC63w look notability more yellow than the SC5w in person?
> 
> I remembered Vinh in his video for the MKIII mentioning the "w" version looking more dirty yellow vs the cool white or something to that effect..



Let's hope it won't be bad. My sc5 cool white has some green in the hotspot but not too bad.


----------



## cmd

My SC63w arrived last night and the first impressions are good. The comments about how astonishingly light this thing is are so true. I only have 3 Zebralights, this one, a SC5w, and a H600w MK II. I definitely like the form of this one the best for EDC. It feels great in hand and disappears in the pocket.

Regarding the beam temp, mine is not as warm as the above beamshots, more creamy than a dirty yellow. But of course there are variations among all batches.

All in all, very pleased. It was worth the wait.


----------



## Tixx

Dome on these I think effects the temp. Been said before I think, so confirming. It's like a big round ball rather than a dome. I can see the center of the hot spot being more blue and surrounded by more yellow. It is not hugely obvious, but tint snobs will see it.


----------



## Mr. LED

I can't find a place to buy the SC63w in stock. Anyone?


----------



## recDNA

Did u try illumn?


----------



## Mr. LED

Yes, they don't even have it listed.


----------



## emarkd

I don't think anybody has it in stock. Zebralight themselves say its only a few-week lead time though, so order one directly from them and wait.


----------



## Mr. LED

Bummer


----------



## emarkd

This is how new Zebralight releases tend to go. It seems that Zebralight gives priority to direct retail orders first, before wholesale orders. So a new product gets announced and put up for pre-order, then hundreds of us early adopters flock to pre-order the thing. Zebra then fills those orders before allowing their wholesale dealer network to get any. So basically, for a new release, no other dealers will have any stock before Zebra's supply can overcome that initial demand. We haven't gotten to that point with the SC63 lights yet. Lead times are shortening though, so it won't be long.


----------



## Tachead

Patience is key, whats the rush? Its just a flashlight. In a few months they will be caught up and it will be available everywhere.


----------



## recDNA

Mr. LED said:


> Yes, they don't even have it listed.


Oh sorry they had the 600mkiiiw. I know I am more interested in cool white version.


----------



## jak

Last night I took my SC63w out to compare it at a distance greater than my back yard can offer, and I must say, it's noticeably brighter than the SC62w. 

While 930 lumens vs 1126 may not seem like it would be a considerable difference, it positively is and I'm excited about that! (It's not "night and day" difference, but obvious to even the untrained eye.) My subject was some trees at a distance of ~40 meters (130ft). Illumination from the 63 appeared to be both brighter, and more encompassing (though maybe it appeared brighter because _it was_ more encompassing).

Anyway, just thought I'd share those positive results and suggest to others that have both the 62 and 63 to compare at mid-range and share results.

Another thing, at that distance, discrepancies among the neutral whites seem to fade. Am I wrong about that, scientifically, or perception-wise?


----------



## recDNA

At distance the reflected light is dimmer. Your eyes don't detect color well in dim light.


----------



## EverydayCoastie

Just ordered a neutral model. i had no intentions of buying a light today till i read through this thread...


----------



## newbie66

EverydayCoastie said:


> Just ordered a neutral model. i had no intentions of buying a light today till i read through this thread...



You should avoid cpf...


----------



## tonkem

I have been using my Sc63 CW, and have noticed something that I wanted to see if other users have experienced. Immediately after using, if you look into the LED, it dims slowly for about 5 seconds, rather then going completely dark, like all my other Zebralights. Anyone having this issue? I have contacted Zebralight about it, and am waiting for a response. Thanks for your responses.


----------



## psychbeat

tonkem said:


> I have been using my Sc63 CW, and have noticed something that I wanted to see if other users have experienced. Immediately after using, if you look into the LED, it dims slowly for about 5 seconds, rather then going completely dark, like all my other Zebralights. Anyone having this issue? I have contacted Zebralight about it, and am waiting for a response. Thanks for your responses.



My guess is there's a little voltage left in the inductor circuit and it's just bleeding off thru the emitter. 
I think a few people have posted the same observation.


----------



## markr6

Yes, I've seen that on many lights with varying degrees. Nitecore TM16 was the most noticeable lasting up to 5 seconds and fairly bright. I believe my SC63w has a little.


----------



## UTV2TiVo

emarkd said:


> This is how new Zebralight releases tend to go. It seems that Zebralight gives priority to direct retail orders first, before wholesale orders. So a new product gets announced and put up for pre-order, then hundreds of us early adopters flock to pre-order the thing. Zebra then fills those orders before allowing their wholesale dealer network to get any. So basically, for a new release, no other dealers will have any stock before Zebra's supply can overcome that initial demand. We haven't gotten to that point with the SC63 lights yet. Lead times are shortening though, so it won't be long.



Makes sense. Take care of your direct customers first.


----------



## bkolb69

tonkem said:


> I have been using my Sc63 CW, and have noticed something that I wanted to see if other users have experienced. Immediately after using, if you look into the LED, it dims slowly for about 5 seconds, rather then going completely dark, like all my other Zebralights. Anyone having this issue? I have contacted Zebralight about it, and am waiting for a response. Thanks for your responses.



I have a SC600 MK III and SC600 MK III w. They both do that. The MKII does not. I doubt it is an issue. It's probably just residual from the step voltage. I think I heard that they step the voltage up to 12 volts for the XHP35. That effect is common with step power.


----------



## Flashgas

Email from Zebra and jumped for....nothing but a confirmation of order


----------



## Shiftyfive

Flashgas said:


> Email from Zebra and jumped for....nothing but a confirmation of order



I bet you'll get a shipping notice very shortly. I received a confirmation today too and then a shipping notice about an hour later. Ordered my SC63w on 1/11.


----------



## acefspade

Flashgas said:


> Email from Zebra and jumped for....nothing but a confirmation of order



Yeah I received the same thing. Ordered on 2/13/16. But if you read a couple pages back, it happened to others and they received a shipping notification an hour later. Yay I'm excited!


----------



## Flashgas

Shipping notice and tracking #. Question is are they being shipped from China or Texas as tracking shows as # created only


----------



## acefspade

Flashgas said:


> Shipping notice and tracking #. Question is are they being shipped from China or Texas as tracking shows as # created only


All US orders are shipped from Texas, international are shipped from China


----------



## jak

tonkem said:


> I have been using my Sc63 CW, and have noticed something that I wanted to see if other users have experienced. Immediately after using, if you look into the LED, it dims slowly for about 5 seconds, rather then going completely dark, like all my other Zebralights. Anyone having this issue? I have contacted Zebralight about it, and am waiting for a response. Thanks for your responses.


I have a W, not a CW. The only thing on mine that I've noticed that the L2 (lowest of lows) dims down in about half a second (looks kinda cool). All the other levels power down as you would expect.


----------



## JuRuKi

Ordered 1/22 and got a shipping notice today for my sc63w. Talk about long wait time... This light better be as good as you guys claim


----------



## shilent

It's been mentioned a few times that the SC63W is 80 CRI. Can anyone confirm this? What about the cool white version?


----------



## emarkd

shilent said:


> It's been mentioned a few times that the SC63W is 80 CRI. Can anyone confirm this? What about the cool white version?



Folks are simply quoting from Zebralights published specs, which say that the w is 80 CRI and the cool white light is 70 CRI. You can see them all here.


----------



## yelojaket

Good news...just received my shipping notice for the SC63w that I ordered on 1/13. Expected delivery to my home in Buford GA is this Friday, 3/11. It will be my third ZL and first 18650 of any make. Interested to see how it will compare to my SC52w and H52Fw.


----------



## Glock27

You will not be disappointed!

G27


----------



## wrdogg22

First ZL. Ordered on Jan 3rd. Got it this past Saturday in Boston. Unreal how small this thing is with such a ridiculous output. It's only been a couple of days but I'm very impressed.


----------



## Connor

Just found this on the YouTubes:


----------



## markr6

Wow, that SC63w looks BAD in the video. Not quite what I see in person. And between my SC600 III and SC600w III, they were both pretty nice. I think video tends to make things look worse.


----------



## hmihaylov

In his other video, you can see he already has some SC63 and SC63w in stock, too bad he is in Japan 
Also, he is testing the SC63 with some common protected and unprotected cells - might be useful to someone.


----------



## Connor

2 more Japanese videos:


----------



## Flashgas

wrdogg22 said:


> First ZL. Ordered on Jan 3rd. Got it this past Saturday in Boston. Unreal how small this thing is with such a ridiculous output. It's only been a couple of days but I'm very impressed.


Mine arrived today, ordered on 1/30. It's so little is not what a man wants to hear but applies to the 63 in a good way. It's the same size as my EDC single cell AA but so much brighter. Off to play it's getting dark out....


----------



## recDNA

hmihaylov said:


> In his other video, you can see he already has some SC63 and SC63w in stock, too bad he is in Japan
> Also, he is testing the SC63 with some common protected and unprotected cells - might be useful to someone.



Would be useful to me IF a protected cell works!


----------



## Fireclaw18

recDNA said:


> Would be useful to me IF a protected cell works!


I have an old 2600 mAh AW 18650. It's button-top protected, but short enough I suspect it would probably work. I might try it tonight in my SC63w.

That said, this light doesn't need a protected cell. The driver has its own built-in protection.

Of course I could be biased.... most of my lights are hot-rodded modded lights that run on low-resistance IMR cells that never have protection.


----------



## recDNA

Fireclaw18 said:


> I have an old 2600 mAh AW 18650. It's button-top protected, but short enough I suspect it would probably work. I might try it tonight in my SC63w.
> 
> That said, this light doesn't need a protected cell. The driver has its own built-in protection.
> 
> Of course I could be biased.... most of my lights are hot-rodded modded lights that run on low-resistance IMR cells that never have protection.


Nah, couldn't handle the current. Protection would trip.


----------



## gunga

For you guys comparing to the sc62w. Has anyone measured the max current on an sc62w?


----------



## emarkd

gunga said:


> For you guys comparing to the sc62w. Has anyone measured the max current on an sc62w?



I have. Zebralights aren't easy to measure current because of the PID. You can never really be sure whether you're getting the maximum output because it fluctuates more than other lights, but really only slightly. The maximum current I've managed to squeeze out of my SC62w (cold room, cold light, etc) is 3.58 amps.


----------



## markr6

emarkd said:


> I have. Zebralights aren't easy to measure current because of the PID. You can never really be sure whether you're getting the maximum output because it fluctuates more than other lights, but really only slightly. The maximum current I've managed to squeeze out of my SC62w (cold room, cold light, etc) is 3.58 amps.



That sounds close to mine. And also my SC63w. I got nowhere close to the 5+ amps others were getting.


----------



## gunga

Hey thanks for the data guys! Just making sure NCR18650B would work for the 62.


----------



## Fireclaw18

gunga said:


> Hey thanks for the data guys! Just making sure NCR18650B would work for the 62.



Yes, NCR18650B works perfectly in the SC63w. That's what I've been using exclusively in mine since I received it a few weeks ago. The cell fits perfectly.


----------



## gunga

I just didn't want to get too close to max current limit. I.mean the sc62w but just got an sc63w so that is also relevant.


----------



## markr6

I was just informed that my second SC63w will ship in a few days!! I hope it's as good as the first.


----------



## UTV2TiVo

When did you order?
Curious since I ordered 2/18 and trying to gauge how close my order might be.


----------



## markr6

UTV2TiVo said:


> When did you order?
> Curious since I ordered 2/18 and trying to gauge how close my order might be.



2/19, so get ready!


----------



## JuRuKi

Bad news for me... after almost 2 months waiting for my light it arrived with a defect on the anodizing. Super dissapointed. I hope they dont make me wait for the replacement. On the bright side, i love the tint and how bright this tiny light is. Sucks that i have to return it.


----------



## gunga

Mine is a little like that. I don't really notice it so just use it (I just got mine).


----------



## akhyar

That looks almost as bad as their infamous SC600 mkI anodizing, which I still have


----------



## gunga

Actually. Mine is pretty mild in most light.


----------



## Fireclaw18

akhyar said:


> That looks almost as bad as their infamous SC600 mkI anodizing, which I still have



Hm. I still have my Gen I SC600 (early preorder version). Anodizing was perfect. Same for my SC6w.

Actually, all of my Zebras have had perfect anodizing except one: My SC62d's anodizing looked kinda crappy.


----------



## psychbeat

I think that "birthmark" looks cool. I'd rock it...


----------



## emarkd

There was a thread on the /r/flashlight reddit group a couple of days ago with the same issue. Its here: https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/49r466/nld_zebralight_sc63w/

That guy's "birthmark" started rubbing off with a bit of handling. Maybe yours will too.


----------



## Connor

JuRuKi said:


> Bad news for me... after almost 2 months waiting for my light it arrived with a defect on the anodizing.



IMHO that's not a _defect _in anodizing - it's a mere optical nuisance. It happens often when using undyed anodizing but it's not worse in any way except for the looks. 
My SC600w II L2 has it too and it didn't change over time.


----------



## Toolboxkid

My 62 had the same ano discoloration, no trouble with it coming off and I'm fairly hard on my light.


Sent from my iPad using Candlepowerforums


----------



## Tachead

I worry that their attention to detail/QC is going down because of the demand for these right now. There is no reason why ones with that bad of an anodizing imperfection should have passed QC and left the factory. QC has been an ongoing issue with ZL since they started their company(you just dont see anywhere near the QC issues with other companies). Imo I think ZL should quit constantly releasing new models, quit trying to best everyone in the lumen race, and concentrate on improving their QC and increasing their production capacity to keep up with demand.


----------



## scout24

Tachead said:


> I worry that their attention to detail/QC is going down because of the demand for these right now. There is no reason why ones with that bad of an anodizing imperfection should have passed QC and left the factory. QC has been an ongoing issue with ZL since they started their company(you just dont see anywhere near the QC issues with other companies). Imo I think ZL should quit constantly releasing new models, quit trying to best everyone in the lumen race, and concentrate on improving their QC and increasing their production capacity to keep up with demand.



You're entitled to your opinoin of course, I just don't think you represent the majority here. We're a super picky crowd, and if they did what you suggest, people would be vocal in their displeasure that "Company X" put out a light with 15 more lumens or a one bin higher emitter. Once in a while there's blood on the bleeding edge...  PS- I like the "camo" anodizing.


----------



## Tachead

scout24 said:


> You're entitled to your opinoin of course, I just don't think you represent the majority here. We're a super picky crowd, and if they did what you suggest, people would be vocal in their displeasure that "Company X" put out a light with 15 more lumens or a one bin higher emitter. Once in a while there's blood on the bleeding edge...  PS- I like the "camo" anodizing.



The SC62, for instance, is still smaller and brighter then the best other companies have to offer. So, I dont think there was a huge risk of getting bested anyway. Not to mention, a lot of ZL customers are the quality over quantity types anyway who prefer better emitters and UI over max lumens. I am not saying they should never release new models or try to achieve industry leading lumen output, I am just saying they should do it less often and work on other weak parts of their company. They tend to rush new models to the market and almost always have issues because they didnt do the proper amount of testing. This doesnt happen near as often with many of the other high quality companies(even ones that are in a much lower class/price range). Also, go have a look on their website. They have almost no stock of any of their products available. Its pretty ridiculous really and has even caused some dealers to stop selling their products. Again, not an issue with other companies. If they upped production by building/renting a larger factory and/or outsourcing some of their production to other high quality machine shops they might actually have their products in stock more often and not be in such a mad rush to keep up with demand. They could then concentrate more on product R&D, pre-release testing, and quality control increasing the quality of their products as well as making more money.


----------



## recDNA

Tachead said:


> I worry that their attention to detail/QC is going down because of the demand for these right now. There is no reason why ones with that bad of an anodizing imperfection should have passed QC and left the factory. QC has been an ongoing issue with ZL since they started their company(you just dont see anywhere near the QC issues with other companies). Imo I think ZL should quit constantly releasing new models, quit trying to best everyone in the lumen race, and concentrate on improving their QC and increasing their production capacity to keep up with demand.


What makes you think there is any formal QC? WE are the QC. Samsung is the same way.


----------



## Tachead

recDNA said:


> What makes you think there is any formal QC? WE are the QC. Samsung is the same way.



Most companies have some form of QC(including Samsung). At least a random check of every so many units is done. Zebralight is a small higher end company so there is no reason every light couldnt/shouldnt be checked before being boxed. Its not like they are boxing tens of thousands of lights a week. Plus, most of the other flashlight companies, even ones with far higher production numbers, seem to do just fine. Zebralight seems to have far more new release issues and general quality control issues then most of the other flashlight companies(even ones that sell for far less money). I just think they concentrate on constantly pumping out too many new models too often when they should perfect the ones they have before selling them and work on actually having their products available to their customers. Just my opinion.


----------



## run4jc

Mine came today and it's darn near perfect. Early thoughts:The beam shape is similar to my SC62w. We’ll see about the throw. As much as I want the tint to be “better”, my opinion is that the SC62w is better. On higher levels the tint is really nice - it’s not as tan and more neutral. On lower levels there’s some tint shift on the edges that leans towards just a touch of greenish. It’ll be interesting to see how it does in the real world. Understand, I’m being uber critical and this is just first impressions with just a little bit of observation. We’ll see. But dang, is it bright! I measure 1000 lumen on high in my sphere. it's a keeper and it's in my pocket right now!


----------



## scout24

In my experience here, there has been much more discussion related to the delay of new models and emitters than complaints about their quality control. And if memory serves, if there is a quality control problem, it's taken care of. Usually mid production, not waiting for other models. New model teething pains and general QC issues more than other companies is a real stretch in my opinion. Many others experience the same if not more issues. As I said, bleeding edge. If the 63 or 600 had been released with a newer XM-L2 driven harder for more lumens, with more sophisticated PID but the same body, the faithful would have ignored it in droves. Back to my bleeding edge comment. Want perfection? Wait 6 months, or as Data says, buy a McGizmo... :nana:


----------



## recDNA

I'm speaking to the general lack of QC in the entire electronics industry today. A lot goes into design and production but I doubt there are people who examine and test each light before it is sold.


----------



## Tachead

scout24 said:


> In my experience here, there has been much more discussion related to the delay of new models and emitters than complaints about their quality control. And if memory serves, if there is a quality control problem, it's taken care of. Usually mid production, not waiting for other models. *New model teething pains and general QC issues more than other companies is a real stretch in my opinion*. Many others experience the same if not more issues. As I said, bleeding edge. If the 63 or 600 had been released with a newer XM-L2 driven harder for more lumens, with more sophisticated PID but the same body, the faithful would have ignored it in droves. Back to my bleeding edge comment. Want perfection? Wait 6 months, or as Data says, buy a McGizmo... :nana:



When was the last time you heard of Fenix(just as an example) having driver firmware issues, blotchy anodizing, waterproofing issues, exc? And, they cost quite a bit less. There are many other examples. You just dont see many, if any, of these issues with a lot of other companies. I am not saying that no other companies have issues however.

I'm just saying they could improve. I still like them a lot and think they are one of the best "bleeding edge" companies as you put it. But I would like to see better new product test, better QC, and them actually having the products they sell in stock most of the time.


----------



## run4jc

I feel almost guilty. Mine has no issues. I just used it outside for the first time and am blown away. The tint looks awesome right outside, and the extra lumen (I read 250 more than my sc62w) really pops. 

I'm sorry that anyone is having issues. I have a new EDC.


----------



## scout24

Tachead said:


> When was the last time you heard of Fenix(just as an example) having driver firmware issues, blotchy anodizing, waterproofing issues, exc? And, they cost quite a bit less. There are many other examples. You just dont see many, if any, of these issues with a lot of other companies. I am not saying that no other companies have issues however.
> 
> I'm just saying they could improve. I still like them a lot and think they are one of the best "bleeding edge" companies as you put it. But I would like to see better new product test, better QC, and them actually having the products they sell in stock most of the time.



At the risk of going off-topic, HDS lights, which by way of disclosure, I own and love, have had issues with mismatched ano, blotchy bezels, parasitic drain, in-stock and parts supply issues. Surefire's anodizing mismatch on their HA nat models is the stuff of legends. I won't go into the many "My brand x light stopped working, what do I do?" threads that populate the General and LED lighting subforums. I just don't think Zebralight is any worse than the others, given the level of electronic and design engineering they bring our way. None other than our own Mad Modder Vinh, who has been inside just about every mass produced light available to us, says the attention to detail he sees inside Zebra's lights is second to none.


----------



## sidecross

scout24 said:


> At the risk of going off-topic, HDS lights, which by way of disclosure, I own and love, have had issues with mismatched ano, blotchy bezels, parasitic drain, in-stock and parts supply issues. Surefire's anodizing mismatch on their HA nat models is the stuff of legends. I won't go into the many "My brand x light stopped working, what do I do?" threads that populate the General and LED lighting subforums. I just don't think Zebralight is any worse than the others, given the level of electronic and design engineering they bring our way. None other than our own Mad Modder Vinh, who has been inside just about every mass produced light available to us, says the attention to detail he sees inside Zebra's lights is second to none.


+1

ZebraLight has produced an excellent product at a reasonable price and it has fulfilled my needs with praise.

The issues about anodizing of the tail cap not matching the body is of no concern for me as long as the anodizing functions to protect the flashlight from abrasions. I use my flashlights as a tool not as an object of art.


----------



## run4jc

run4jc said:


> I feel almost guilty. Mine has no issues. I just used it outside for the first time and am blown away. The tint looks awesome right outside, and the extra lumen (I read 250 more than my sc62w) really pops.
> 
> I'm sorry that anyone is having issues. I have a new EDC.



Alas, no cool birthmark for mine. The anodizing on mine is perfect. If it wasn't I wouldn't care. The light oozes quality and the beam is insane - especially at this price.


----------



## gunga

Sorry. I didn't mean to imply that my light has issues. There is a slight mismatch around where the clip is. I rarely ever notice it unless I look for it. Otherwise, I'm very pleased. I just wished they went all pogo pins instead of a spring tailcap.


----------



## jak

For reference, I took a tint picture of my Zebralights to try to show where my tint stands in comparison to other Zebralights. I don't know if this is very useful, but I'm posting it anyway. (The Olight is there just for reference against a cool white light.)


----------



## scout24

Thanks for the beam comparison. Looks like the 63w is very similar to the 62w but with a tighter hotspot.


----------



## snowlover91

I find it ironic that out of all the SC63 lights sent out only 2 have had any issues and that was with the anodizing. That's pretty good if you ask me. Same for the Mk3 HI no issues reported with it so far. Really the only issues were with the initial batch of MK3 with some battery rattle and inductor whine. Those issues have since been corrected and ZL was willing to exchange the defective units. I certainly don't see a problem here? 

I have to say I'm loving the new design of the 63w quite well from using it daily for awhile now. The smooth portion is great for clipping it since it doesn't shred my pants now and easily comes off when I need it.

gunga I agree I wish they would have kept all pogo pins for the SC63 tailcap also or all springs. I'm not a fan of the hybrid design but it gets the job done. Thanks for the pics jak, it's amazing how the emitter choice was criticized early on because people thought the XHP35 would offer a broader hotspot whereas real life seems to indicate it's the same or slightly better in the throw department. My experience is similar with a slightly smaller hotspot for the 63 vs the 62.


----------



## gunga

I received my much anticipated sc63w a few days ago. And while I have not had time for any heavy evaluation; I have been pleased overall. 

The design was a pleasant surprise. 

I do find the centre section a bit slippery and would love some knurling there, but on the whole the grip is pretty good. 

I don't love the design, but after looking back, I don't love the design of the sc62w either. 

I'd say it's a slight cosmetic improvement at the expense of a little function (those ribs do help with grip). 

The shorter length is nice but barely noticable. The new restrictions on battery size are unwelcome. I'm okay with it, and purchased some new batteries to suit this light, but am baffled by the spring in the tailcap. 

Isn't the point of all this for decreased resistance from the pogo pins? It just feels like an afterthought due to early complaints of battery rattle and makes screwing on the tailcap firmer than it needs to be. 

So, I'm glad I got it but I'm happy I still have the sc62w. Now, let's bring on the high cri!


----------



## run4jc

Thanks for the comments, gunga. Funny, I don't find the center slippery as I get plenty of grip from the clip. BUT - no doubt that the SC62w is more grippy. I'm with you on being happy to have both, but I'll probably default to the 63 because I like that little extra 'pop' that it has on high. And I'm with you - I'd love a high CRI version of it.

Fortunately, I've had no issues with any of my stock of 18650 cells - both AW and some generic cells purchased a while back.

These beam shots were taken hurriedly hence they are a bit out of focus and the aim between the two photos is slightly off. Still, I think it gives you a sense of actual beam shape and tint as well as the slight brightness increase. A few better photos of this same scene can be found over here (obviously minus the SC63w). Camera is my old reliable Canon 40D, color temp locked at 5000k, 6/10 second shutter speed, f7.1, ISO1000. Lens is a Sigma 18-50mm / 1:2.8-4.5 - focal length at around 24 mm. House is around 50 feet away.

Control - just a bit of light pollution




SC62w on high




SC63w on high




Here's an animated gif of the 3 shots




My aim was a little more centered with the SC63w, but regardless you can easily see that the area is better lit on both sides with the 63. Yes, it's minor, but it's obvious. The tint has really grown on me - it's a bit more neutral than the 62, but at lower levels I can see just a bit of shift in the spill. That's really being picky - outside I can see none of that. 

And one other thing - on high this little light gets hot - FAST. Good that it's dissipating the heat, but you'll feel it in a hurry.

To repeat gunga one more time, I'm glad I have both.


----------



## scout24

Thank you, Dan, for putting the integrating shed to use again!


----------



## run4jc

scout24 said:


> Thank you, Dan, for putting the integrating shed to use again!



LOL. "Integrating shed." Cracks me up. Zandar calls it "The Sawmill Inn."
I suppose this thread is as appropriate as any. I was curious to see my Zebralight purchase history. I bought 7 of the darn things in 2011 - 1 of them remains in the collection, an H31w that I still use. 

Here's what remains in the collection and their purchase (ship) dates:

H31w3/31/11H502d6/21/12SC521/11/13SC52w4/2/14SC32w3/17/15SC62w3/27/15SC63w3/10/16

And the family photos:




(Anything notice anything different about 2 of the clips? I need to do the rest of them!)




Why is this relevant to this thread? Dunno - maybe it isn't. I just find it interesting that since 2011, very few of my Zebralights ever leave the collection. I can find records of 16 purchased since that fateful day in January of 2011 that I bought my first Zebralight (an SC51w - wish I still had it!)

So this latest goodness - the SC63w - will probably hang around for quite a while, too. Oh, sure - we can find things that can be improved, but if we are honest with ourselves (IMHO) these are some of the best lights for the $$ out there. Well built, great UI, decent choice of emitters, etc. 

That is all. (for now  )


----------



## fnsooner

Thanks for the pictures and impressions run4jc. My thoughts on the SC63w are the exact same as yours. Another winner.


----------



## emarkd

Did any of you mid-February orders get shipment notifications yet? Mine was ordered 2/13 and is still "processing". I messaged Zebralight for a status update about 10 days ago and was told it would ship last week, but it didn't. I'm trying to be patient but I'm not very good at it 

So did anyone's ship?


----------



## Tachead

snowlover91 said:


> *I find it ironic that out of all the SC63 lights sent out only 2 have had any issues and that was with the anodizing.* That's pretty good if you ask me. Same for the Mk3 HI no issues reported with it so far. Really the only issues were with the initial batch of MK3 with some battery rattle and inductor whine. Those issues have since been corrected and ZL was willing to exchange the defective units. I certainly don't see a problem here?
> 
> I have to say I'm loving the new design of the 63w quite well from using it daily for awhile now. The smooth portion is great for clipping it since it doesn't shred my pants now and easily comes off when I need it.
> 
> gunga I agree I wish they would have kept all pogo pins for the SC63 tailcap also or all springs. I'm not a fan of the hybrid design but it gets the job done. Thanks for the pics jak, it's amazing how the emitter choice was criticized early on because people thought the XHP35 would offer a broader hotspot whereas real life seems to indicate it's the same or slightly better in the throw department. My experience is similar with a slightly smaller hotspot for the 63 vs the 62.



There is 3 in this thread alone and its not like this thread indicates anywhere close to every owner of a SC63 lol. I have been into lights for 25+ years and I have never got a light with blotchy anodizing like this from any company. Anodizing colour variation is one thing but, this is likely caused by rushing and not properly cleaning the billet before it hits the anodizing tank and is easily preventable. Its shoddy manufacturing processes if you ask me. No problem? The cell compartment tolerance issues like you said. What about the poor tints? Most agree they are a downgrade from the SC62w and SC600w MKII's. Vinh wont even stock them because he thinks they are so poor and his opinion is well respected. What about the firmware issues with the H600 MKIII's? That's quite a few issues with one new line if you ask me. I havent seen any issues with Fenix's new PD lines, nor Nitecores MH lines just as some examples. In fact, the only other company that I have read about with anywhere near the issues of ZL recently is Armytek. 

This is not a new issue with ZL either. It seems like with every new release comes a new batch of issues that could have been prevented by better QC and pre-release testing. There is no reason why they shouldnt have improved by now. It is there weak point and I hope they work on it going forward. I wont even go into the fact that almost all their lights are out of stock again(again a recurring problem you dont see with other companies).


----------



## sidecross

Tachead said:


> I wont even go into the fact that almost all their lights are out of stock again(again a recurring problem you dont see with other companies).


Have you considered that being 'out of stock' could be viewed as a characteristic of 'quality control'?


----------



## Flashgas

emarkd said:


> Did any of you mid-February orders get shipment notifications yet? Mine was ordered 2/13 and is still "processing". I messaged Zebralight for a status update about 10 days ago and was told it would ship last week, but it didn't. I'm trying to be patient but I'm not very good at it
> 
> So did anyone's ship?


If it helps any....ordered 1/30, shipped and received. Two emails will let you know when it is about to ship followed shortly by the tracking #.


----------



## scout24

I think you and I have made our points. Let's move along, and both stop beating the dead horse of QC and other issues. I've had my say in favor of their products, you've made your points as well. Let's let the thread continue without this discussion, shall we? Thank you, and my apologies to everyone for continuing this...



Tachead said:


> There is 3 in this thread alone and its not like this thread indicates anywhere close to every owner of a SC63 lol. I have been into lights for 25+ years and I have never got a light with blotchy anodizing like this from any company. Anodizing colour variation is one thing but, this is likely caused by rushing and not properly cleaning the billet before it hits the anodizing tank and is easily preventable. Its shoddy manufacturing processes if you ask me. No problem? The cell compartment tolerance issues like you said. What about the poor tints? Most agree they are a downgrade from the SC62w and SC600w MKII's. Vinh wont even stock them because he thinks they are so poor and his opinion is well respected. What about the firmware issues with the H600 MKIII's? That's quite a few issues with one new line if you ask me. I havent seen any issues with Fenix's new PD lines, nor Nitecores MH lines just as some examples. In fact, the only other company that I have read about with anywhere near the issues of ZL recently is Armytek.
> 
> This is not a new issue with ZL either. It seems like with every new release comes a new batch of issues that could have been prevented by better QC and pre-release testing. There is no reason why they shouldnt have improved by now. It is there weak point and I hope they work on it going forward. I wont even go into the fact that almost all their lights are out of stock again(again a recurring problem you dont see with other companies).


----------



## emarkd

Flashgas said:


> If it helps any....ordered 1/30, shipped and received. Two emails will let you know when it is about to ship followed shortly by the tracking #.



Thank you for that and I'll be looking out for those emails. I was really specifically referring to a couple of folks who commented a page or so back and said they ordered mid-February and were being told by Zebra that their lights should be shipping any day now.


----------



## JuRuKi

Another thing i noticed with my new SC63w. There is a line around the middle of the flashlight that you can see and feel. Like the tube is 2 pieces welded together.
Anyone else? Not trying to be picky but i never paid this much for a flashlight and im being a little observant heheh


----------



## recDNA

run4jc said:


> Thanks for the comments, gunga. Funny, I don't find the center slippery as I get plenty of grip from the clip. BUT - no doubt that the SC62w is more grippy. I'm with you on being happy to have both, but I'll probably default to the 63 because I like that little extra 'pop' that it has on high. And I'm with you - I'd love a high CRI version of it.
> 
> Fortunately, I've had no issues with any of my stock of 18650 cells - both AW and some generic cells purchased a while back.
> 
> These beam shots were taken hurriedly hence they are a bit out of focus and the aim between the two photos is slightly off. Still, I think it gives you a sense of actual beam shape and tint as well as the slight brightness increase. A few better photos of this same scene can be found over here (obviously minus the SC63w). Camera is my old reliable Canon 40D, color temp locked at 5000k, 6/10 second shutter speed, f7.1, ISO1000. Lens is a Sigma 18-50mm / 1:2.8-4.5 - focal length at around 24 mm. House is around 50 feet away.
> 
> Control - just a bit of light pollution
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SC62w on high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SC63w on high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's an animated gif of the 3 shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My aim was a little more centered with the SC63w, but regardless you can easily see that the area is better lit on both sides with the 63. Yes, it's minor, but it's obvious. The tint has really grown on me - it's a bit more neutral than the 62, but at lower levels I can see just a bit of shift in the spill. That's really being picky - outside I can see none of that.
> 
> And one other thing - on high this little light gets hot - FAST. Good that it's dissipating the heat, but you'll feel it in a hurry.
> 
> To repeat gunga one more time, I'm glad I have both.


Set the PID to be more aggressive.


----------



## snowlover91

scout24 said:


> I think you and I have made our points. Let's move along, and both stop beating the dead horse of QC and other issues. I've had my say in favor of their products, you've made your points as well. Let's let the thread continue without this discussion, shall we? Thank you, and my apologies to everyone for continuing this...



Agreed and time to move on from the topic of QC. Every company has issues some more than others, Nitecore has had their share of issues that pop up initially or later down the line (light won't turn on, UI messes up, etc) as well as the infamous "ballooning buttons" that happened too. Fenix has had issues recently with tint on a few of their lights, also. I think people need to just get their Zebralights and enjoy using them  I use mine every day in a warehouse setting and wouldn't trade it for any other light. For the money they are some of the best sub $100 lights out there for durability, tint and UI imo. My other lights just sit on the shelf now and will soon be sold or given away.


----------



## run4jc

snowlover91 said:


> Agreed and time to move on from the topic of QC. Every company has issues some more than others, Nitecore has had their share of issues that pop up initially or later down the line (light won't turn on, UI messes up, etc) as well as the infamous "ballooning buttons" that happened too. Fenix has had issues recently with tint on a few of their lights, also. I think people need to just get their Zebralights and enjoy using them  I use mine every day in a warehouse setting and wouldn't trade it for any other light. For the money they are some of the best sub $100 lights out there for durability, tint and UI imo. My other lights just sit on the shelf now and will soon be sold or given away.




WELL STATED SNOWLOVER91. Incidentally, my post with all the lights was also to point out that the QC of my lights has been outstanding. It's unfortunate that some have experienced problems. Always interesting, though, to watch the experts come out and critique all the problems with the lights. I guess I'm blessed - i haven't had any problems and would't hesitate to order any Zebralight in their catalog.



recDNA said:


> Set the PID to be more aggressive.



Thanks - I did that. But it really wasn't a problem, just an observation.


----------



## markr6

emarkd said:


> Did any of you mid-February orders get shipment notifications yet? Mine was ordered 2/13 and is still "processing". I messaged Zebralight for a status update about 10 days ago and was told it would ship last week, but it didn't. I'm trying to be patient but I'm not very good at it
> 
> So did anyone's ship?



No, but ZL said mine would ship in a couple days (Friday). So I expect it to ship this coming week...3/14 or so.


----------



## JStraus

JuRuKi said:


> Another thing i noticed with my new SC63w. There is a line around the middle of the flashlight that you can see and feel. Like the tube is 2 pieces welded together.
> Anyone else? Not trying to be picky but i never paid this much for a flashlight and im being a little observant heheh



Yes mine has a slight "band" in the center. Probably from the machining of that part of the tube. I doubt it's two pieces joined.


----------



## gunga

Mine too. Same. I'm very happy with this. Such an awesome Edc size in an 18650 light!


----------



## KeepingItLight

markr6 said:


> I got nowhere close to the 5+ amps others were getting.




I am pretty sure that was a measurement issue. 

One way to tell would be to measure lumens at the same time as you measure current. If the lumen output is significantly lower while you are measuring current, then your measurement has interfered with the flashlight. 

In case you do not have a lux meter, you could try setting your camera to aperture priority mode, and take two pictures. The picture with the longer exposure would be the dimmer light.


----------



## acefspade

emarkd said:


> Did any of you mid-February orders get shipment notifications yet? Mine was ordered 2/13 and is still "processing". I messaged Zebralight for a status update about 10 days ago and was told it would ship last week, but it didn't. I'm trying to be patient but I'm not very good at it
> 
> So did anyone's ship?



I ordered the same day as you and mine was shipped on March 7 and delivered on March 9 in Socal.


----------



## emarkd

acefspade said:


> I ordered the same day as you and mine was shipped on March 7 and delivered on March 9 in Socal.


Okay.... Wow, I was going to just leave it alone and let things play out but it sounds like my order may have some sort of ...holdup. I guess I'll be messaging zebra again after all.

Thanks.


----------



## pse

Is anybody using the NCR18650GA battery for Sc600mk3? I'm confused with this note on nkon website:

Unfortunately it also does not work with the Sanyo NCR18650GA, because it is a little bit too short. This causes the light to turn off when you shake the SC600w a little bit.*

We recommend the*LG INR18650MJ1 3500mAh, because this battery fits perfect.

Isn't ZL recommending GA for mk3?


----------



## Tachead

pse said:


> Is anybody using the NCR18650GA battery for Sc600mk3? I'm confused with this note on nkon website:
> 
> Unfortunately it also does not work with the Sanyo NCR18650GA, because it is a little bit too short. This causes the light to turn off when you shake the SC600w a little bit.*
> 
> We recommend the*LG INR18650MJ1 3500mAh, because this battery fits perfect.
> 
> Isn't ZL recommending GA for mk3?



That's the problem with these new pogo pin designs. The cell tolerances are just way to tight. Depending on production tolerances between batches certain batteries may or may not fit. As little as a couple tenths of a mm can be the difference between battery rattle/poor connection and a crushed battery. I suspect this is why ZL went with the springed tail cap on the SC63. I personally thought the pogo pins were a poor design from the start for this reason among others. At least with the springed tail cap the SC63 seams to be more forgiving. Hopefully ZL will go with a different more tolerant design going forward because these lights seam great other then this.


----------



## snowlover91

pse said:


> Is anybody using the NCR18650GA battery for Sc600mk3? I'm confused with this note on nkon website:
> 
> Unfortunately it also does not work with the Sanyo NCR18650GA, because it is a little bit too short. This causes the light to turn off when you shake the SC600w a little bit.*
> 
> We recommend the*LG INR18650MJ1 3500mAh, because this battery fits perfect.
> 
> Isn't ZL recommending GA for mk3?



Not sure why they have that on their site, the MK3 Hi I have works great with 18650ga cells. In fact all the different unprotected cells I have, Samsung, LG and 18650ga by Sanyo all work fine in it. Only thing I can figure is if they have the old stock from the first batch of the MK3 that had the battery rattle issues. Zebralight has fixed the issue and unprotected flat tops of any type should fit fine without battery rattle.


----------



## Tachead

snowlover91 said:


> Not sure why they have that on their site, the MK3 Hi I have works great with 18650ga cells. In fact all the different unprotected cells I have, Samsung, LG and 18650ga by Sanyo all work fine in it. Only thing I can figure is if they have the old stock from the first batch of the MK3 that had the battery rattle issues. Zebralight has fixed the issue and unprotected flat tops of any type should fit fine without battery rattle.



Its hard to keep manufacturing tolerances exactly the same from run to run. I suspect there is a normal variance from run to run and depending if it is shorter or longer it can effect cell fit. It is just not the greatest design. You just need higher tolerances then the pogo pins can offer to allow different cells to fit. Especially when your dealing with 18650's whos lengths are all over the place. Look at your example: your Orbtronic was crushed in your SC600 MKIII where as your GA wasnt. There is less then 0.6mm difference between those cells. The tolerances are just too tight, especially with adding manufacturing tolerances into the mix. I suspect that is why they went back to the springed tail cap with the SC63.


----------



## gunga

I think they should have added a millimeter to the body after switching back to the springed tailcap on the sc63w. It's a bit tight for my taste.


----------



## sidecross

pse said:


> Is anybody using the NCR18650GA battery for Sc600mk3? I'm confused with this note on nkon website:
> 
> Unfortunately it also does not work with the Sanyo NCR18650GA, because it is a little bit too short. This causes the light to turn off when you shake the SC600w a little bit.*
> 
> We recommend the*LG INR18650MJ1 3500mAh, because this battery fits perfect.
> 
> Isn't ZL recommending GA for mk3?


My SC600 Mk3 works with LG 18650MJ1 3500mAh - Flat top and Sanyo/Panasonic NCR18650GA 3500mAh - Flat top cells.


----------



## KeepingItLight

pse said:


> Is anybody using the NCR18650GA battery for Sc600mk3? I'm confused with this note on nkon website:
> 
> Unfortunately it also does not work with the Sanyo NCR18650GA, because it is a little bit too short. This causes the light to turn off when you shake the SC600w a little bit.*
> 
> We recommend the*LG INR18650MJ1 3500mAh, because this battery fits perfect.
> 
> Isn't ZL recommending GA for mk3?



Interesting!

Have you tried posting a query in the SC600 Mk. III thread? This thread is for the SC63.


----------



## recDNA

Some have mentioned rapid uncomfortable heat in 63. Could the spring (increased resistance) be a contributor?


----------



## snowlover91

recDNA said:


> Some have mentioned rapid uncomfortable heat in 63. Could the spring (increased resistance) be a contributor?




I dont think hunk so since the spring is in the tailcap. Also it's brighter than the previous version and probably pulling a little more from the battery due to the boost circuit used. PID is more aggressive though so it will drop down quicker also.


----------



## Fireclaw18

recDNA said:


> Some have mentioned rapid uncomfortable heat in 63. Could the spring (increased resistance) be a contributor?



Nope.

If the spring were creating heat due to resistance, that heat would be generated in the spring so would be at the tail of the light, not the head. In the SC63, the tailcap always remains cool. High heat only happens in the head of the light. If anything the spring should actually reduce heat by reducing the power to the head of the light.


----------



## JuRuKi

My SC63w gets pretty hot after 20 seconds on H1


----------



## jak

gunga said:


> I think they should have added a millimeter to the body after switching back to the springed tailcap on the sc63w. It's a bit tight for my taste.


Zebralight quietly "beefed up" the specs on their product page... Battery size increased from 65mm to 65.2mm.

Every little bit helps...


----------



## markr6

gunga said:


> I think they should have added a millimeter to the body after switching back to the springed tailcap on the sc63w. It's a bit tight for my taste.



I agree!



jak said:


> Zebralight quietly "beefed up" the specs on their product page... Battery size increased from 65mm to 65.2mm.
> 
> Every little bit helps...



Interesting. I wonder if that is for the lights on back order, or already received with the last batch.


----------



## recDNA

I bet it is the same version with the spring totally compressed making it even tighter.


----------



## markr6

Just got the usual duplicate order confirmation for my second SC63w, so it should be shipping soon!


----------



## EverydayCoastie

Mark, when did you place your order?


----------



## markr6

EverydayCoastie said:


> Mark, when did you place your order?



2/19


----------



## emarkd

Ordered mine on 2/13. Still "Processing" and no extra emails received here. No changes at all.


----------



## oneinthaair

Did tail cap mode to the SC600 to run the Dark Sucks Ti clip.





Sc600 perfect tint great throw





Sc63w good tint yellow spot in the center on white wall. Mostly flood


----------



## gunga

Can you pm or post a link for that clip please? On the sc63w.


----------



## oneinthaair

gunga said:


> Can you pm or post a link for that clip please? On the sc63w.



Mike I wish I knew where to find more, I got it with my 62 from KDM. Look up Pops custom clips on Facebook, he maybe able to make you something like that.


----------



## gunga

Darn! I had a link to clips before. I'll check again.

Edit. USA knifemakers. The pre bent ones are out of stock. Augh!


----------



## Tachead

gunga said:


> Darn! I had a link to clips before. I'll check again.
> 
> Edit. USA knifemakers. The pre bent ones are out of stock. Augh!



Its way too beefy for the SC63 imo anyway. It would be nice if ZL would start making deep carry clips for their lights as it seems they are preferred by most people. Maybe someone can convince Dark Sucks or someone to start making a nice one. I bet they would sell well enough to be worth it for them.


----------



## snowlover91

Looks like your HI also has a great tint similar to mine. Is it warmer than your 63w or about the same? Great beamshots thanks for posting!


----------



## gunga

Can anyone forward some USA knifemakers clips to me? Cheapest shipping is $35. Yikes! The stealth ones are in stock and might look good on Zebralights. $8 each.


----------



## Toolboxkid

emarkd said:


> Thank you for that and I'll be looking out for those emails. I was really specifically referring to a couple of folks who commented a page or so back and said they ordered mid-February and were being told by Zebra that their lights should be shipping any day now.



I ordered 2/14 and have not heard anything yet. Still says processing.


Sent from my iPad using Candlepowerforums


----------



## markr6

Tachead said:


> Its way too beefy for the SC63 imo anyway.



That's what I was thinking. I just hate when you get a compact light and have an unnecessarily large/complex clip. Olight S1 is another great example.

But it looks good and surely does the job.


----------



## thehollowhands

After reading this thread in its entirety - I placed my order. This will be my first Zebralight and hopefully I'll get lucky on the tiny lottery! Hope to do a review when it finally arrives!


----------



## CreeCrazy

Well I didn't preorder a SC63 after waiting forever for my SC 600 MK III. I was watching EBay litterally every 1/2 Hr for the last week or so and snagged the first SC63w I've seen there so far. Can't wait to add it to my collection. This will be #8 for me. Not counting the ones I've sold in the past.


----------



## newbie66

thehollowhands said:


> After reading this thread in its entirety - I placed my order. This will be my first Zebralight and hopefully I'll get lucky on the tiny lottery! Hope to do a review when it finally arrives!



Hope you enjoy it when it reaches you!


----------



## Ares

Just got mine in. I love the size. I miss the knurling a little bit, but that's a non-issue for me. Tint is more on the green side - which I'd prefer over a rosy tint. My SC62w had an ever-so-slight rose tint to it. It's not even remotely as green as my old SC52w (which I loved regardless), though. 

My only issues with it are (1) my ZebraLight branded 18650 won't fit in it, which isn't a big deal because I have a bunch of cells that do fit, and (2) it makes this hissing/humming noise on turbo. And it's even more obnoxious in strobe mode - the noise flickers on and off with the strobe.

Does anyone else's hiss/hum in turbo? I don't think I should be concerned, but it is a little annoying to be honest. I think I can live with it, though. I had many Fenix lights that made the same noise on turbo back before I got turned onto ZebraLight.


----------



## snowlover91

Ares said:


> Just got mine in. I love the size. I miss the knurling a little bit, but that's a non-issue for me. Tint is more on the green side - which I'd prefer over a rosy tint. My SC62w had an ever-so-slight rose tint to it. It's not even remotely as green as my old SC52w (which I loved regardless), though.
> 
> My only issues with it are (1) my ZebraLight branded 18650 won't fit in it, which isn't a big deal because I have a bunch of cells that do fit, and (2) it makes this hissing/humming noise on turbo. And it's even more obnoxious in strobe mode - the noise flickers on and off with the strobe.
> 
> Does anyone else's hiss/hum in turbo? I don't think I should be concerned, but it is a little annoying to be honest. I think I can live with it, though. I had many Fenix lights that made the same noise on turbo back before I got turned onto ZebraLight.



Hmmm is it a hissing noise or a high pitch whining sound? If it's a high pitch whine then what I would do is use it for a few days and see if it goes away. I had this with my SC5fd and it disappeared after a few days of heavy use. If it keeps on after a week or so then I would contact ZL about getting a replacement, if it bothers you. It has to do with the boost circuit causing this and I've found through experience that some lights will maintain this noise while others seem to lose it as they "break in" with use.


----------



## Connor

Finally :-D
Very happy with the lights, but now I *do *need new batteries: I tried running the SC63ws with old LG ICR18650A2 (2600 mAh) and while they do fire up on H1 they both start to flicker after about 20-30 seconds and drop to M1, likely because the cells can't handle the discharge current any longer. All other modes work fine. 

Very impressed by the size of those lights .. but boy, do they get *hot *quickly.


----------



## snowlover91

Great pic! How is the tint on yours? You can also adjust the PID if needed so it kicks in quicker or delays a little longer. They have the instructions on this process under the MK3 HI on their website.


----------



## Connor

snowlover91 said:


> Great pic! How is the tint on yours? You can also adjust the PID if needed so it kicks in quicker or delays a little longer. They have the instructions on this process under the MK3 HI on their website.



Thanks. I set the PID to the middle setting. One light is very slightly yellowish/greenish while the other is just a little bit purplish, but way less than my SC600w II L2. Overall I would say from my samples that tint is much better than XM-L2 based lights (a little warmer but less of a clearly noticeable tint).


----------



## markr6

I finally cancelled the order this morning for my SC63w since it's been over a month now. But I guess they beat me to it and shipped it just now. Oh well, I was 50/50 on keeping it anyway.


----------



## gunga

How come?


----------



## markr6

I tend to do that when I like a light so much. Then I think "do I really need two...how will I use them?" I know one is enough, but I guess 2 won't hurt!


----------



## gunga

Ah! I get it. I often buy two of the same light but rarely keep the second.


----------



## scout24

The sc62w was one of the very few non-SF lights that I have a duplicate of. It's that good. And that keeps me from ordering a 63 for now...


----------



## Ares

snowlover91 said:


> Hmmm is it a hissing noise or a high pitch whining sound? If it's a high pitch whine then what I would do is use it for a few days and see if it goes away. I had this with my SC5fd and it disappeared after a few days of heavy use. If it keeps on after a week or so then I would contact ZL about getting a replacement, if it bothers you. It has to do with the boost circuit causing this and I've found through experience that some lights will maintain this noise while others seem to lose it as they "break in" with use.



High pitched whining sound is probably more accurate. It's not like a battery hissing or anything. I've heard it on some Fenix lights back in the day. It has gotten less noticeable with heavy use, but if I pop in a fresh cell it seems to come back somewhat, and even changes tone when the PID kicks in and alters output due to temperature (I even changed the default temp, and now it's more of a low hum instead of a high hum). 

I'll use it for a couple of weeks and see what happens. ZebraLight already told me to send the thing in, but I'm so happy with the tint, I can deal with a couple seconds of noise on H1 lol

Although it would be hard to not notice this pocket rocket accidentally being left on - due to both light output and heat... should I ever leave the thing on in a bag, my sensitive ears would probably hear it and realize I left it on. Sooooo maybe it's a feature, and not a bug?


----------



## Fireclaw18

> Hmmm is it a hissing noise or a high pitch whining sound? If it's a high pitch whine then what I would do is use it for a few days and see if it goes away. I had this with my SC5fd and it disappeared after a few days of heavy use. If it keeps on after a week or so then I would contact ZL about getting a replacement, if it bothers you. It has to do with the boost circuit causing this and I've found through experience that some lights will maintain this noise while others seem to lose it as they "break in" with use.



If you keep the light around long enough any high pitched whine will "go away" as your hearing declines with age!


----------



## snowlover91

Fireclaw18 said:


> If you keep the light around long enough any high pitched whine will "go away" as your hearing declines with age!



Lol good point  

Ares, mine went away on the SC5fd after about a week of use. I'm not sure what causes it to go away like that but I'm glad it did! Glad you like the light though, they're quite the little pocket rocket!


----------



## JuRuKi

Hey guys, i posted some pictures a couple pages back showing my defective anodizing. I sent that one back and got a replacement recently. The anodizing is a lot better on the new one but it still has a little round stain on it but i can live with that. The new issue with the new one is the power sign on the power button is off center and it kinda bothers me but I think i have to keep it. Im scared of sending it back and getting one in worse conditions and i dont have time to keep driving to USPS to send the returns back and waste my and their time.
Sorry for the rant, i know Zebralight's QC has been talked about a lot but i wanted to share my experience since im a new zebralight owner. I thought for the price their quality would be better.


----------



## Tachead

JuRuKi said:


> Hey guys, i posted some pictures a couple pages back showing my defective anodizing. I sent that one back and got a replacement recently. The anodizing is a lot better on the new one but it still has a little round stain on it but i can live with that. The new issue with the new one is the power sign on the power button is off center and it kinda bothers me but I think i have to keep it. Im scared of sending it back and getting one in worse conditions and i dont have time to keep driving to USPS to send the returns back and waste my and their time.
> Sorry for the rant, i know Zebralight's QC has been talked about a lot but i wanted to share my experience since im a new zebralight owner. I thought for the price their quality would be better.




Brutal:shakehead

Sorry to hear about your issues man. I would email them and let them know that another defect was sent and express your dissatisfaction just so they know it happened. Then if you decide to send it back again, include a note to please check the next one before sending. ZL really needs to slow down and make sure they get things right before sending out products especially replacements. A second defect should never be sent, that's just irresponsible and careless imo.


----------



## snowlover91

JuRuKi said:


> Hey guys, i posted some pictures a couple pages back showing my defective anodizing. I sent that one back and got a replacement recently. The anodizing is a lot better on the new one but it still has a little round stain on it but i can live with that. The new issue with the new one is the power sign on the power button is off center and it kinda bothers me but I think i have to keep it. Im scared of sending it back and getting one in worse conditions and i dont have time to keep driving to USPS to send the returns back and waste my and their time.
> Sorry for the rant, i know Zebralight's QC has been talked about a lot but i wanted to share my experience since im a new zebralight owner. I thought for the price their quality would be better.



Sorry to hear about the disappointing experience  I agree with Tac I would let them know your disappointment with the replacement and see what they say. I would personally try a third time, when you pay $85 for a light it needs to meet your needs and if it doesn't I would recommend to let the company know. Like Tac suggests I would put a note in it if you send it back and request for the new one to be thoroughly checked. Best of luck and let us know what you end up doing!


----------



## markr6

markr6 said:


> I finally cancelled the order this morning for my SC63w since it's been over a month now. But I guess they beat me to it and shipped it just now. Oh well, I was 50/50 on keeping it anyway.



This finally arrived. Even though they shipped it after I cancelled the order, I'm glad I did. I gave it a quick test and it was more yellow/green than my other SC63w. Logo/etching was very blurry and the anodizing wasn't a nice dark color like my other one. No big deal...I decided if I need two of any Zebralight, it will be the SC600 HI. Love it!


----------



## iacchus

*Zebralight SC63w first impressions*








Right up front, I want to say....I am impressed.


Look at the size of this thing, barely bigger than my pointer finger:









Here is another, comparing it to HDS:









It is bookended there by two CR123a sized lights. The ZL is an 18650. If anything, it is a touch smaller than the other two.
And outputs ~1000 lumens on high.
This is the sort of thing that made me buy another flashlight. This just didn't exist a year or two ago, outside of custom jobs and hobbyist torches.


So, I had read countless reviews while waiting for the light to get to me (you know you cats do it too), and had seen several complaints. The ano being spotty, the UI confusing, and the head getting blisteringly hot within 20 or so seconds on high being what became my main two concerns. The latter far more than the former, honestly.


Well, the anodization on mine is perfectly acceptable, and that is being conservative. No issues whatsoever. Looks good. I'm real happy with it.

The UI honestly seems pretty intuitive to me. No issues there either. One click for high, and a short hold for low. The rest is easily accessible from there. I like it.


About the head heating up. Well, yeah, 20-30 seconds on high and the head gets pretty warm. So I tail stood it cold, turned it on high (accidentally almost blinding myself in the process), and shot the head w/ a calibrated IR thermometer for five minutes. Temps at the head hit 45.2C. They would then drop to 44.7C before rising again to 45.2C. After watching it float between those two numbers for a few minutes, I was satisfied with ZL's PID and grabbed the light. While warm, it wasn't uncomfortable to me. I am satisfied for the moment that the tech is doing its job. I would feel safe blasting this on high for five or ten minutes without worrying that I'm going to do any damage, and honestly, if I need that sort of light for longer than ten minutes, maybe I didn't bring a big enough light for the job.
What I am saying here is that again, I'm impressed.


Tint. Comparing it to the Osram Golden Dragon+ in my Ra Clicky, it is noticeably cooler. It is, however, very similar to the Nichia 219b in the Prometheus Beta QR hanging off my keychain. The ZL has a touch more yellow, but no garish greens or purples. Maybe a bit of rose at the edge of the spill. If anybody is interested, I can try to do some beam shots later.
I'm real happy with the tint in this one. I tend towards neutral,warm though.


Robustness. There's the rub. I expect a lot from my lights.These days, they are tools above all else. I haven't gotten the chance to drop the ZL, or knock it about yet, and while I am not expecting the bombproofness of an HDS or Malkoff torch, I do have high hopes. It would be a shame if this great little package was a fabrege egg. This being my first Zebralight, maybe some users with more experience could let me know what to expect in this area.


So far, I am delighted with it.


----------



## scout24

*Re: Zebralight SC63w first impressions*

Iacchus- I merged your thread into the existing SC62/62w thread. There is plenty of reading here about ZL quality, QC, battery fitment, etc. Nice pics, BTW... :thumbsup:


----------



## Tachead

*Re: Zebralight SC63w first impressions*

Thanks for the thorough review and nice pics iacchus:thumbsup:


----------



## iacchus

Thanks. I've been an HDS and Malkoff guy for a few years now, but couldn't pass this up. Hope it holds up. Real happy with it so far.


----------



## snowlover91

iacchus said:


> Thanks. I've been an HDS and Malkoff guy for a few years now, but couldn't pass this up. Hope it holds up. Real happy with it so far.



All of my Zebralights have proved quite durable. The first one I purchased was the SC62w which still works great. Then the SC5w, SC5fd were my next two. I purchased a SC32w and gave it to my dad last year for Fathers Day and it still works just as good as the day he got it. He is really rough with his keychain too, dropping it on concrete and other hard surfaces all the time yet the light still works and the ano is holding up nicely. I also recently acquired the SC63w and MK3 HI and have really enjoyed putting them to use. Most importantly is none of my lights have failed after multiple drops on concrete and other daily tasks at the warehouse I'm in. So far so good!


----------



## iacchus

That is great to hear. So far, the feedback has been very positive.


----------



## emarkd

*Re: Zebralight SC63w first impressions*



iacchus said:


> This being my first Zebralight, maybe some users with more experience could let me know what to expect in this area.



I've got 11 Zebras now. Not all of them have been used very hard but none of them have ever given me an issue. My SC62w, however, was used _hard_ for almost a year. Its been all sorts of tossed around, dropped off of ladders onto concrete, underwater numerous times, even tossed like a baseball by my 2-yr-old on more than one occasion, once even while sitting on my shoulders. That light flew a dozen meters from 7ish feet off the ground, hit the concrete hard and skittered several more. It was on at the time -- never skipped a beat. Its wearing plenty of little scars and nicks from its time as my normal edc light, but it still works like a champ every time I ask it to.

I've got an HDS Rotary myself and while the small Zebras do feel more fragile, mostly because they're clearly made with thinner aluminum and are much lighter, I have no doubt that they're built well and will take some abuse.


----------



## iacchus

*Re: Zebralight SC63w first impressions*

You guys are certainly calming my fears. I really like this light. Honestly, ZL is lighter and carries a bit better than the Ra. Not to mention the extra output. 

For the time being, the Ra will be holding down bag duty, and the ZL will live in my pocket while I put it through the paces.

Edit:
Here are some substandard beamshots. 
L to R:
RA clicky w/Osram GDP
ZL SC63w 
Prometheus Beta QR w/ nichea 219b


----------



## Connor

Connor said:


> I tried running the SC63ws with old LG ICR18650A2 (2600 mAh) and while they do fire up on H1 they both start to flicker after about 20-30 seconds and drop to M1, likely because the cells can't handle the discharge current any longer.



Quoting myself here **cough**. :thinking:

My LG INR 18650 MJ1 cells arrived and both lights work fine on H1 with those, no fast flickering, no dropping to M1. 
It kind of impresses me that these tiny flashlights draw *so *much current that they don't even run on H1 with older (2600 mAh) cells for more than a few seconds because the cells can't deliver.  :thumbsup:


----------



## snowlover91

Connor said:


> Quoting myself here **cough**. :thinking:
> 
> My LG INR 18650 MJ1 cells arrived and both lights work fine on H1 with those, no fast flickering, no dropping to M1.
> It kind of impresses me that these tiny flashlights draw *so *much current that they don't even run on H1 with older (2600 mAh) cells for more than a few seconds because the cells can't deliver.  :thumbsup:



Glad to hear the new cells are working for you! These lights do pull a good amount of power and any 10+ amp cell will provide plenty of juice for it. How are you liking the 63w? 

Iacchus, nice beamshot comparison thanks for sharing! How does the tint compare to your Nichia 219b? It looks pretty close in the image posted above but I know cameras can do strange things with lighting.


----------



## iacchus

snowlover91 said:


> Glad to hear the new cells are working for you! These lights do pull a good amount of power and any 10+ amp cell will provide plenty of juice for it. How are you liking the 63w?
> 
> Iacchus, nice beamshot comparison thanks for sharing! How does the tint compare to your Nichia 219b? It looks pretty close in the image posted above but I know cameras can do strange things with lighting.


It was surprisingly close. Honestly, the pic was pretty true to life. The 63w had a touch more visible yellow (which you can notice from the photo), but otherwise, felt closer to the 219b than it did to any other torch I own. The 219b is just pure perfect white, with great color rendition. 

I should have thrown a cool white in the mix, but was working from a small table and couldn't fit a fourth light on there. I wanted the comparison to the GDP emitter because that has always been the closest to incandescent I have ever found, and gives silly true color. That's the light I use when the kid is sick and need to check her color while she sleeps. Shame you can't really find them anymore. It always reminds me of my old and long gone surefire bulbs.


----------



## OrlandoLights

My girlfriend just gave me a SC63w. I'm very happy with it, it'll be perfect for backpacking. She was standing next to me when I first turned it on to high shining it across a darkened living room and she gasped in surprise. "I had no idea it could do that!"


----------



## Connor

snowlover91 said:


> How are you liking the 63w?



It's a keeper. Especially the size&weight to lumen power ratio blows me away. 

Made a new pic with my SC600w II L2:


----------



## Ares

Fireclaw18 said:


> If you keep the light around long enough any high pitched whine will "go away" as your hearing declines with age!



Hahaha come on now, let's be honest here... I'll have at least four more ZebraLights by then anyway 



snowlover91 said:


> Lol good point
> 
> Ares, mine went away on the SC5fd after about a week of use. I'm not sure what causes it to go away like that but I'm glad it did! Glad you like the light though, they're quite the little pocket rocket!



I've noticed the tone and volume drops off as the voltage decreases. Cells fresh off the charger whine louder. But I'm also noticing that over time, the duration of the whine decreases, regardless of the cell voltage. I hear it for only a split second now (whereas it used to continue indefinitely). Pretty sure mine is going to work it's way out, also. Thanks, guys! I would have been really upset if I had sent it in and gotten a worse tint (I love the tint I received) haha.


----------



## ntalbot

Sadly I just sent my SC63w back to Zebralight. The tint on mine was too yellow/green. I liked everything else about it. I wish they offered a guaranteed tint version -- I'd be willing to pay a significant premium that.

Any advice on how to buy one with a good tint?


----------



## markr6

ntalbot said:


> Any advice on how to buy one with a good tint?



I wish! I've been playing the lottery for years. Just when someone says "they fixed the tint issues" you order one and find it to be the worst yet  I sometimes ask them for a "less green" tint in the comments section during checkout, but clearly that is not working. Besides, that can be subjective especially if they are not comparing several side by size. Honestly I don't expect them to do that.

So, still a complete gamble. I just got another SC63w and it was pretty yellow/green. My first one is OK, but not great. Good enough.


----------



## snowlover91

ntalbot said:


> Sadly I just sent my SC63w back to Zebralight. The tint on mine was too yellow/green. I liked everything else about it. I wish they offered a guaranteed tint version -- I'd be willing to pay a significant premium that.
> 
> Any advice on how to buy one with a good tint?



If they end up releasing a high cri version then you will definitely get a good tint. The c/d models usually are "cherry picked" to get good tint which takes more time for ZL to do but increases the quality, and they usually have higher cri emitters in them also. The MK3 Plus later this year will have a 90+cri emitter and should be really nice, ZL has stated they've considered doing a 63c/d model with 90+ cri but who knows if they'll actually produce it or not.

Mark, was your 2nd 63w good in the tint department or worse than your first one? Are you sending it back?


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Mark, was your 2nd 63w good in the tint department or worse than your first one? Are you sending it back?



Worse. I ordered the second one early February since I really liked the first one. Then I started to wish I didn't since I don't need two. And got tired of waiting. When I canceled my order, it shipped a few hours later! So they apologized and gave me an RMA to return. So I returned it, only after sneaking a peak of the tint. It wasn't too far off from the first, but enough to make me feel even better about my first one.


----------



## snowlover91

Might as well save that money up for the MK3 Plus version coming out later this summer  I don't need one but it's going to be hard to resist a 90+ cri light. I'm wondering if they will change anything else about the light and if they will end up producing the SC63c/d series or not.


----------



## Tachead

snowlover91 said:


> Might as well save that money up for the MK3 Plus version coming out later this summer  I don't need one but it's going to be hard to resist a 90+ cri light. I'm wondering if they will change anything else about the light *and if they will end up producing the SC63c/d series or not*.



If they do it will likely have a different emitter then the XHP35. They told me they cant source any XHP35 emitters that are 90+ CRI and close to the black body radiation line other then 3500K. I would like to see some SC63's and some SC32's in the "c&d" 4000 and 5000K models as well. I dont even care what emitters they come with or how bright they are. I just want clean tints as close to the black body radiation line as possible and reasonably high CRI(preferably 83-85+ but, the higher the better). I will even pay more for hand picked(cherry picked) emitters.


----------



## Mainspring

Ordered my SC63w 28th shipped 29th even though it said on back order.


----------



## shilent

My SC63W is behaving differently now in H1. Before, I would see it lower in brightness as it gets hotter. Now it gets MUCH hotter and just blinks every 3 seconds. There's also the high pitch whine now.

I had the PID set to the highest. I now have it set back to default, but no difference.

This is my 2nd SC63W, and I've had it for 3 days now.

Anyone seen this before?

Edit: This one is a dud. the PID is screwy, H1 has a high pitched whine, L1 is now flickering. It's going back to Zebralight.


----------



## lizongyu

shilent said:


> My SC63W is behaving differently now in H1. Before, I would see it lower in brightness as it gets hotter. Now it gets MUCH hotter and just blinks every 3 seconds. There's also the high pitch whine now.
> 
> I had the PID set to the highest. I now have it set back to default, but no difference.
> 
> This is my 2nd SC63W, and I've had it for 3 days now.
> 
> Anyone seen this before?
> 
> Edit: This one is a dud. the PID is screwy, H1 has a high pitched whine, L1 is now flickering. It's going back to Zebralight.



1. clean the bare aluminum end of the tube.
2. clean the contact ring inside the tail cap.
3. clean the tail cap spring.
4. make sure the tail cap is tight enough.
These steps solved the overheat and high pitch whine problem in my own experience.


----------



## shilent

Thanks for the replies.

Even though I don't have a overheating problem, I'll try thoroughly cleaning it.

I really do like the light, so I'll try anything to get it working.


----------



## ntalbot

Can someone tell me the exact diameter of the tailcap of the SC63 or SC63W? I need it for a lanyard attachment system I am working on while I wait for mine.


----------



## ntalbot

ntalbot said:


> Can someone tell me the exact diameter of the tailcap of the SC63 or SC63W? I need it for a lanyard attachment system I am working on while I wait for mine.



Anyone?


----------



## markr6

I don't have calipers with me, but using my clear ruler I'm measuring 15/16". Almost 24mm. Not sure what kind of accuracy you need here.


----------



## Glock27

ntalbot said:


> Can someone tell me the exact diameter of the tailcap of the SC63 or SC63W? I need it for a lanyard attachment system I am working on while I wait for mine.



24.20 mm
0.953 inches

G27


----------



## ntalbot

Glock27 said:


> 24.20 mm
> 0.953 inches
> 
> G27



Awesome! Thx!


----------



## Equitymind

Not sure if it's been mentioned but it's showing as in stock at Zebralight.

Scratch that, as I was copying the link it went back to backorder


----------



## sticktodrum

Dammit.


----------



## Mainspring

Just received my SC63w I find the tint to be yellow it also has a yellow circle in the middle of beam have a look at a quick shot with my iPhone.well compared to my H602W I find it totally different what do you guys think





Must also say I am a newbie


----------



## snowlover91

That looks fairly similar to mine also, I find the tint to be pretty good. The xhp35 seem to have more of a yellowish/white tint to them from what I've seen so far.


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> That looks fairly similar to mine also, I find the tint to be pretty good. The xhp35 seem to have more of a yellowish/white tint to them from what I've seen so far.



I agree. Not so much of a "bad yellow" like I've seen on an SC62w in the past. More warm than yellow, if that makes sense.


----------



## Fireclaw18

markr6 said:


> I agree. Not so much of a "bad yellow" like I've seen on an SC62w in the past. More warm than yellow, if that makes sense.



I wish they'd make a version of the SC63w with the same emitter as the SC600w III HI. The HI emitter has more throw and better tint (less yellow, more tan).


----------



## markr6

Fireclaw18 said:


> I wish they'd make a version of the SC63w with the same emitter as the SC600w III HI. The HI emitter has more throw and better tint (less yellow, more tan).



Or it's time they offered interchangeable modules...screw-in for flood or throw. I would sacrifice some water-resistance for that! I like the fat hotspot on the SC63w but wouldn't mind a more throwy version as well. That would be nice in such a small light, even though it wouldn't be the same as the 600.


----------



## Fireclaw18

markr6 said:


> Or it's time they offered interchangeable modules...screw-in for flood or throw. I would sacrifice some water-resistance for that! I like the fat hotspot on the SC63w but wouldn't mind a more throwy version as well. That would be nice in such a small light, even though it wouldn't be the same as the 600.



I don't think that's practical. This isn't a P60 light. The LED is mounted on the driver board along with the switch. Having some kind of replaceable LED module would make for a MUCH bigger or longer light.


----------



## markr6

Fireclaw18 said:


> I don't think that's practical. This isn't a P60 light. The LED is mounted on the driver board along with the switch. Having some kind of replaceable LED module would make for a MUCH bigger or longer light.



That would kill it for me. It would be nice if there was a design to unscrew the entire guts, and insert a new one, giving more options and even the ability to mod. But I guess that would turn the 63 into the 600 size-wise, or even bigger.


----------



## ntalbot

Fireclaw18 said:


> I wish they'd make a version of the SC63w with the same emitter as the SC600w III HI. The HI emitter has more throw and better tint (less yellow, more tan).



+10


----------



## ntalbot

Mainspring, 
I couldn't stand how yellow/green my SC63w was, so I sent it back to Zebralight for a refund.
I ordered an SC63 which I like a lot more, even though it's 5700K. At least it's not 6000K and the tint is pure white with no hint of any color.
I like it a lot more than the SC63w I had. That being said, I also got an SC600w III Hi and it's tint is close to perfect, so I'll probably use that most of the time, except when I need something smaller or floodier.
Like Fireclaw said, I wish they would offer a SC63w HI.


----------



## snowlover91

Hmmm I've considered getting a regular SC63 with the 5700k tint. If it's a pure white that would definitely interest me if they're consistently like that and not a cool white tint like other flashlights are. I wonder if it is pretty close to 5700k or slightly lower/higher?


----------



## ntalbot

All I can tell you is I have 2 cool white flashlights that are significantly cooler than my SC63: an old Solarforce and a Trustfire AK-90. I think those are supposed to be 6000K. All the rest of my lights are neutral tint and my SC63 is obviously cooler than those. I'd guess that my SC63 is pretty close to 5700K, FWIW.


----------



## markr6

It was a VERY difficult decision for me between the 4500 and 5700K. Both pretty nice. It wasn't the typical "blue" in the 5700K that blew it for me; but the usual "flat" and low CRI look you get. It's hard to explain.

I white wall, or paper shown here, does not do justice. You really have to take them into an environment where you would actually use them and do a comparison. That ultimately made me to choose the 4500K (w)


----------



## snowlover91

Thanks for the comparison pics and replies that helps some! Mark, I know your SC5w was similar to mine with what you described as a "pure white" tint to your SC5w. Would you compare the 5700k to that or is it different?


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Thanks for the comparison pics and replies that helps some! Mark, I know your SC5w was similar to mine with what you described as a "pure white" tint to your SC5w. Would you compare the 5700k to that or is it different?



Much different. My SC5w OP is white, like 5000K Nichia 219 white! Actually, slightly cooler and maybe even better. I got lucky there. The 5700K was noticeably cooler. I no longer have it to take a photo.


----------



## snowlover91

markr6 said:


> Much different. My SC5w OP is white, like 5000K Nichia 219 white! Actually, slightly cooler and maybe even better. I got lucky there. The 5700K was noticeably cooler. I no longer have it to take a photo.



Thanks that's what I needed to know, I'll stick with the w version as the 5700k sounds a little too cool for my tastes.


----------



## JStraus

I got both SC63 tints. On a wall it was indeed a tough call, but outdoors in woods and pine needles I found the 63w to be much more pleasing. You are right that the non 'w' had a much 'flatter' look outdoors. (To me at least.)



markr6 said:


> It was a VERY difficult decision for me between the 4500 and 5700K. Both pretty nice. It wasn't the typical "blue" in the 5700K that blew it for me; but the usual "flat" and low CRI look you get. It's hard to explain.
> 
> I white wall, or paper shown here, does not do justice. You really have to take them into an environment where you would actually use them and do a comparison. That ultimately made me to choose the 4500K (w)


----------



## Connor

JStraus said:


> I got both SC63 tints. On a wall it was indeed a tough call, but outdoors in woods and pine needles I found the 63w to be much more pleasing. You are right that the non 'w' had a much 'flatter' look outdoors. (To me at least.)



Definitely not just you! 
Cold white LEDs, esp. those of the 70 CRI or less kind, produce an unpleasantly greenish-grayish tinted picture of vegetation - everything just looks a bit off.


----------



## hmihaylov

Finally, after 5 weeks of (not so) patiently waiting my ZL SC63w arrived today! First thing I noticed out of the box was the tail cap - the color of the anodizing there is much darker, it almost looks like a different material. I put in a battery and "click" - it was on. 

Second thing I noticed was the "click" itself - the rubber on the switch is making an additional clicky sound when I press it lightly - like it is not in contact with the switch but has some space between the two, so almost always there is a double click sensation - one light (fake) and one hard (the real switch-on or off). 

The third thing was the beam and tint itself - and this, like the lightness and the size of it is what I like. My other ZL is a SC62, both have pretty much the same output, and will implement each other nicely. I have no opinion yet which one feels better for me in the hand but I bet the new one will be as good as the old one. If only I was not so nitpicky about the first two things I mentioned.

What is your advice - should I contact Zebralight for a replacement tail cap? I would gladly pay up to $10 if only I was sure they would send the right color. Regarding the second issue - I really hope this is something that will be gone with usage - or else it will nag me for a long time.

Thank you in advance.


----------



## KeepingItLight

Swapping with a random tail cap sent out from ZebraLight does not sound like a good way to match color.

The best way to get a match would be to return the flashlight, and ask that an employee check the color of the tail cap, before sending out the replacement flashlight.


----------



## markr6

I know what you mean about that switch. I hate that!! Never experienced that with a Zebralight, though.

If you're happy with the tint, I'd deal with the anodizing. You could end up swapping the whole light out and getting a meanie greenie :sick2:

But due to that switch, I'd return it and try another personally.


----------



## gunga

Well. I found a pretty good deep carry clip. USA knifemakers. Took maybe 30-40 minutes of annoying filing of the holes to get it to fit but it works pretty well. Even works with the trit mod I like to do. 


Edit: returning the stealth clips.


----------



## gunga

This is the stealth clip. Nice but no tailstanding. Don't get this one.


----------



## gunga

Edit. Never mind.


----------



## gunga

Tough crowd. Thought people would be happy that a well priced deep carry clip is Available. The trit mod helps prevent pockets from getting hung up on the clip mount.


----------



## psychbeat

^^ hah - looks cool to me!
I'd rock it if I had a 63...


----------



## gunga

Well. I'm going to put one on an sc62w and sc52w when I have time.


----------



## psychbeat

gunga said:


> Well. I'm going to put one on an sc62w and sc52w when I have time.



I'd put one on my h600w MKII if it fit


----------



## 18650

My SC62 had a darker tail cap compared to the body.


----------



## ven

Like that Mike, suits the light!


----------



## gunga

Thanks!

It's this one:

http://usaknifemaker.com/ti-pocket-clip-formed-tumbled-040-low-rider-thin.html

I'll post some pix when I get them on other Zebralights.


----------



## ven

Bookmarked for future!!! Thanks


----------



## cmd

gunga said:


> Thanks!
> 
> It's this one:
> 
> http://usaknifemaker.com/ti-pocket-clip-formed-tumbled-040-low-rider-thin.html
> 
> I'll post some pix when I get them on other Zebralights.




Thanks gunga, nice find - I just ordered some. They look very nice.


----------



## gunga

I know! They have 3-4 choices. I feel this is best.


----------



## scout24

Nice clips!I've been running one from the 'bay made for my Spyderco Delica and Paramilitary II. Good to know USA Knifemaker has others that work!I see the trit, just trying to figure out how you mount it...


----------



## gunga

Put the trit on the shelf and add thin layers of norland around it. Try not to add any or much on top or it may get too thick. The trits can get crushed by the clip. Ask me how I know...

Don't do the trit mod with the stock clip. Unless you like crushing glass.


----------



## scout24

Thanks for the tips!


----------



## gunga

Okay. Here's the next clip on an sc52w. Painful 45 minutes of filing the holes to fit. I have a small round diamond file that is somewhat effective. The filing always results in a bit of material being taken off the sides of the clip too. Meh. 

No trit mod here (tomorrow). The nice thing about the clips is the rounded contour. It provides a nice finger grip for the light.


----------



## gunga

And the sc62w!


----------



## cmd

gunga said:


> Well. I found a pretty good deep carry clip. USA knifemakers. Took maybe 30-40 minutes of annoying filing of the holes to get it to fit but it works pretty well. Even works with the trit mod I like to do.
> 
> 
> Edit: returning the stealth clips.
> 
> View attachment 2439
> 
> 
> View attachment 2440
> 
> 
> View attachment 2441



Got mine yesterday and after about 20 minutes (carefully) with a dremel and a small cone shaped diamond bit got the holes shaped right. The holes are just a little small for the screws and about 1mm too wide. Also sanded the edges of the clip because they are a little rough. I tried one on my Benchmade Contigo, and it fits exactly without modification, but I like the stock clip on it better - just tried it out of curiosity.

Very pleased with this clip! It even has something that makes me smile - when installed it almost but not quite touches the "waist" of the SC63, so if you slide your finger tip down and off the clip it rings like a tuning fork. When a clip works well, looks good, and does that too it makes me happy.

Gunga - where do you source tritium vials and norland from? That is a good idea, you are right about the ramp up from the body to the screws and clip being abrupt and can snag on the pocket.


----------



## Equitymind

Just ordered my SC63w - apparently they are shipping in two business days according to a reply I received today from Zebralight. My second ZL, super excited!


----------



## gunga

Hi cmd. My 1.5x6mm trit and norland are from mixglo.com.


----------



## Streak

I just received my SC63W. Nice upgrade to my original SC52W.
It arrived directly from Zebralight Texas and took 3 days to get here.


----------



## markr6

I've been using my SC63w a little more. I'm still surprised how much quicker it heats up compared to my SC600w II or SC600 III HI. I understand those dissipate heat better, but they're not _that_ much larger. I reset my PID setting to the default on the SC63w. Not complaining though!


----------



## KeepingItLight

Comparing ZebraLight's specs for the SC62w and the SC63w, I see that the SC63w is about 15% brighter on its highest mode, and that runtimes (on all modes) are roughly 10% longer!


----------



## recDNA

markr6 said:


> I've been using my SC63w a little more. I'm still surprised how much quicker it heats up compared to my SC600w II or SC600 III HI. I understand those dissipate heat better, but they're not _that_ much larger. I reset my PID setting to the default on the SC63w. Not complaining though!


It's OK to complain! I do little else. LOL


----------



## tops2

markr6 said:


> I've been using my SC63w a little more. I'm still surprised how much quicker it heats up compared to my SC600w II or SC600 III HI. I understand those dissipate heat better, but they're not _that_ much larger. I reset my PID setting to the default on the SC63w. Not complaining though!



I know it totally depends on the environment, but I've always wondered about how many lumens on H1 that the SC63w ends up due to the comments about heating up.. I've wondered is it down to say 700-800 lumens or say 400-500 lumens? This is what stopped me from considering the SC63w over the SC600w MKIII.


----------



## markr6

tops2 said:


> I know it totally depends on the environment, but I've always wondered about how many lumens on H1 that the SC63w ends up due to the comments about heating up.. I've wondered is it down to say 700-800 lumens or say 400-500 lumens? This is what stopped me from considering the SC63w over the SC600w MKIII.


I set my H2 to 580lm. After running H1 down to have PID kick in, I switched back to H2 and it looked pretty close. But the H2 also uses PID, so the "leftover" heat may have caused that to be lower. But still, not much. I would guess the stepdown on H1 makes it around 700lm but that's not worth much without some type of measuring equipment. And if the environment was even warmer than my room temp, it would have stepped down more.


----------



## Connor

markr6 said:


> I've been using my SC63w a little more. I'm still surprised how much quicker it heats up compared to my SC600w II or SC600 III HI. I understand those dissipate heat better, but they're not _that_ much larger.



Not much larger but they have considerably more mass and thus more metal for the LED to heat up.


----------



## Connor

tops2 said:


> I know it totally depends on the environment, but I've always wondered about how many lumens on H1 that the SC63w ends up due to the comments about heating up.. I've wondered is it down to say 700-800 lumens or say 400-500 lumens? This is what stopped me from considering the SC63w over the SC600w MKIII.



It's definitely less lumens than H2 (< 580) but > 312 lumens (for the SC63w at normal room temperature).


----------



## markr6

Connor said:


> It's definitely less lumens than H2 (< 580) but > 312 lumens (for the SC63w at normal room temperature).



I'm definitely seeing more than 580. Not much, but obvious. I guess it has to do with the PID on that level as well.


----------



## Connor

H2 (580 lumens) wouldn't be PID-controlled if the light could sustain this output, though. Not enough mass for the heat produced ..


----------



## markr6

Connor said:


> H2 (580 lumens) wouldn't be PID-controlled if the light could sustain this output, though. Not enough mass for the heat produced ..



I wasn't sure so I checked before posting and it does in fact use PID.


----------



## tops2

Thanks for the quick responses!

I guess it looks like the SC63w drops to less than half of the max output then in you guys' cases?
Yeah, glancing at Selfbuilt's review, it looks like his SC600 MKIII eventually drops to about slightly more than half of the max output with no cooling at default PID. But I guess the MKIII can just sustain the higher levels for a few minutes...and maybe about 10 minutes to drop to his final "stabilized" level. It sounds like the SC63w drops much faster then.


----------



## Connor

tops2 said:


> It sounds like the SC63w drops much faster then.



Yes, within 1-2 minutes.


----------



## recDNA

My 62w doesn't appear to drop much


----------



## markr6

recDNA said:


> My 62w doesn't appear to drop much



Depending on how sensitive your eyes are, you almost have to pick a spot and stare at it without blinking to watch the stepdown...at least on every ZL I've owned. But then when you reset, you can see the difference pretty easy.


----------



## recDNA

From what I have read about the 63 getting hot and visibly dropping a graph of 63 vs 62 output vs time would be interesting. My guess is the 62 will either beat it or match it within a few minutes.


----------



## markr6

Wish I still had my SC62w to compare. But going by memory, they both heat up and drop output pretty quick. At least compared to the SC600 series and other larger lights.


----------



## recDNA

Boosting the voltage along with higher amp draw must heat the 63 faster.


----------



## eshold

I have an issue with my SC63 that I'm hoping someone here can shed some insight on:

When H1 is activated on my SC63, it will flash off and on 2-4 times after about 7 seconds. After flashing, PID seems to kick in and it steps down normally. My SC62w did not have this problem. Did I recieve a faulty light?

I hope that there is a fix for this and I can avoid an RMA.


----------



## Connor

eshold said:


> When H1 is activated on my SC63, it will flash off and on 2-4 times after about 7 seconds. After flashing, PID seems to kick in and it steps down normally. My SC62w did not have this problem.



What kind of 18650 battery are you using?


----------



## eshold

Connor said:


> What kind of 18650 battery are you using?



I use authentic NCR18650B's in all of my lights and all are fairly new. After you said that, I did swap in a different one from another one of my lights and it did not exhibit the issue. Maybe that battery is going bad and no longer performs to spec? It does seems to work fine in my other lights. Very strange.


----------



## KeepingItLight

ZebraLight sells the unprotected, flat-top, 3500mAh *Panasonic NCR18650GA* ("GA") for flashlights that use its new 12-volt driver. That includes the SC63 and all variants of the SC600 Mk. III released thus far. 

In an email to flashlight reviewer MHanlen, ZebraLight said that the unprotected, flat-top, 3400mAh *Panasonic NCR18650B* ("B") would work in the SC600w Mk. III HI flashlight he reviewed. That does not necessarily mean it will provide the best performance. 

We have been discussing the issue in his review thread. Battery talk starts in post #27.


----------



## Connor

eshold said:


> I use authentic NCR18650B's in all of my lights and all are fairly new. After you said that, I did swap in a different one from another one of my lights and it did not exhibit the issue. Maybe that battery is going bad and no longer performs to spec? It does seems to work fine in my other lights. Very strange.



If all the contacts on the battery are clean and not bend it indeed hints that this particular battery may have a problem. 
I asked about your battery because I ran my SC63w on some old LG 2600mAh cells which couldn't deliver the current for H1, the SC63w started flickering and stepping down to medium after 20-30 sec like yours ..
The light is drawing a lot of amps on H1 (4-5A?) so if the cell can't deliver these are the symptoms apparently .. :sick2:


----------



## eshold

Thanks for the help guys! Looks like I just have an excuse to buy some new batteries.  It is very good to know that my light is not faulty.


----------



## awyeah

I'm considering buying one of these... I feel a little tenuous about using unprotected NCR18650s. I know, there's protection in the flash light... but anyway, I'm thinking about using IMR batteries. How do those perform in these lights? Anyone using them?


----------



## snowlover91

awyeah said:


> I'm considering buying one of these... I feel a little tenuous about using unprotected NCR18650s. I know, there's protection in the flash light... but anyway, I'm thinking about using IMR batteries. How do those perform in these lights? Anyone using them?



As long as they're unprotected and can support 5+ amps continuous they should work well! I use the 18650ga cells so I can't really comment on IMR performance. I was initially worried about the lack of protection but good safety practices alleviate any concerns. One nice thing about Zebralights is they step down before the battery gets too low. This serves two purposes, first it lets you know it's time to recharge the cell and it also gives you some extra light, if needed, before the protection cuts the light off.


----------



## FMKeith

First post here. Long time reader.

I just ordered my first Zebralight, an SC63CW. I like the way the cool white looks. It seems that most of you prefer a warmer more yellow tint. I am wondering what the appeal of the yellow over the cool white. Might be something that I am missing being somewhat of a novice. 

Thank you you all for contributing and making this such a great resource for new guys like myself.


----------



## psychbeat

FMKeith said:


> First post here. Long time reader.
> 
> I just ordered my first Zebralight, an SC63CW. I like the way the cool white looks. It seems that most of you prefer a warmer more yellow tint. I am wondering what the appeal of the yellow over the cool white. Might be something that I am missing being somewhat of a novice.
> 
> Thank you you all for contributing and making this such a great resource for new guys like myself.



Neutral & warmer tints in general tend to have better color rendering and/or contrast especially outside in the woods etc. 

The cooler tints also have more glare in fog and dust in my experience (which is quite a bit  

I'm sure you'll be fine with cool if that is what you prefer - lots of people out there with blue-ish headlights etc etc and they love em. 
Can't go wrong w a zebralight!


----------



## wolfgaze

FMKeith said:


> First post here. Long time reader.
> 
> I just ordered my first Zebralight, an SC63CW. I like the way the cool white looks. It seems that most of you prefer a warmer more yellow tint. I am wondering what the appeal of the yellow over the cool white. Might be something that I am missing being somewhat of a novice.
> 
> Thank you you all for contributing and making this such a great resource for new guys like myself.



Hi Keith... Welcome to actively participating in the thread discussions! 

I'm no expert on flashlight technology and tints (and I'm sure the more experienced members will correct me if I'm wrong) - but my understanding is that the neutral and more warmer tints tend to yield a more natural looking coloration when illuminating objects. As PsychBeat already alluded to - they tend to have better color rendering (CRI) and this means the objects you illuminate will appear more true to their actual color. Whereas the more cool white beams tend to make objects look more washed out a bit and don't do as good of a job preserving their coloration. The cool white LED's I read run more efficient and tend to produce higher lumen output - their output appears brighter to the user. 

I only own one neutral white flashlight (Zebralight SC5w) and I really like the beam tint/profile. It's very pleasing and easy on my eyes and I am enjoying how it illuminates objects, especially outside. It did not take long for me to adjust to this tint having previously only been exposed to very cool white beams like the ones coming from my Olight batons and some of my Fenix lights. The SC5w only has a CRI rating of 75 too - so now I'm very interested in acquiring a light with an even higher CRI rating (waiting for the SC600 MK3 PLUS to be released). From watching youtube reviews and reading feedback on other Zebralight models - I have heard that even the cool white Zebralight beam tints appear closer to the neutral spectrum than many of the cool white lights that users are accustomed to with other manufacturers. You may find yourself quite pleased with your choice/selection. It's all just a matter of personal preference anyway, so go with what suits your preferences. If you access the *Compare All Models* link on the ZL website, you should see a spreadsheet that outlines the specs on the various models and from there you can look up the color temperatures of the various models' tints and their CRI (Color Rendering Index)....


----------



## KeepingItLight

CRI (color rendering index) is a measure of how good a light source discriminates between different colors and shades of color. Sunlight has a CRI of 100. The best LED flashlights, around 90 to 92.

Neutral tint is not the same as high CRI. In general, the phosphors that are applied to an LED in order to achieve neutral tint do increase CRI. But that does not always mean you get a CRI of 90. The *ZebraLight SC63w*, for instance, has a CRI of only 80. That's better than the typical 70 you get with most cool-white flashlights, but it won't compare well against a flashlight with a CRI of 90 or more. 

I know this, because I have made the comparison! It is easy to do. I recommend spending $7 USD on the *BLF-348* flashlight. It's a 1xAAA flashlight that only puts out 42 lumens, but it has an outstanding 5000 CCT, 90 CRI Nichia 219B emitter. Get one of those and start shining it at colorful targets. Lightly colored oak furniture and flooring are great test subjects. So are the colorful photographs in magazines.

Almost everyone will notice the difference in color rendering between a 90-CRI flashlight and the typical cool-white model. It is EASY TO SEE. You do not need a bunch of test equipment!

Outside, the browns, tans, and reds of nature, along with all the other colors, look much better under a high-CRI light. Those are the colors that a low-CRI, cool-white flashlight does a poor job on.


----------



## FMKeith

Thank you for all of the replies. I have looked up CRI before but still didn't really get it. My searching lead me to more camera site for explanations though. Maybe that is where I was falling short. This is my first ZL but not my first higher end light. Just a quick run down of what I can recall off the top of my head that I have: SureFire 6p, SureFire Z2, Streamlight Polytac, Streamlight Polytac 90 x2, EagleTac D25C (my EDC for about 4 years), Nitecore P12GT, Olight S30R2 (been trying to EDC this one). 

The SC63 was purchased for an EDC light. This was a tough decision as I could not decide between the SC600 mk3 or the SC63. I am still questioning my decision as I am worried that the SC63 will step down too quickly for my taste. I might just have to buy the 600 also. Haha.


----------



## markr6

It's not just blue vs. yellow. If you get a "yellow" tint, you got screwed. I had two SC63w lights and one was literally yellow, one was neutral. It's just the variance in LEDs from Cree. Unfortunately a lottery; are you lucky or not?

Whether you like cool or neutral is a personal preference, but there's really 4 scenarios:

Cool with bad tint: blue/purple crap
Cool with good tint: pure white with a cooler feel to it
Neutral with bad tint: yellow or green
Neutral with good tint: pure white with a warmer feel, maybe a slight pinkish or tan hue (in a good way)


----------



## swan

FMKeith said:


> First post here. Long time reader.
> 
> I just ordered my first Zebralight, an SC63CW. I like the way the cool white looks. It seems that most of you prefer a warmer more yellow tint. I am wondering what the appeal of the yellow over the cool white. Might be something that I am missing being somewhat of a novice.
> 
> Thank you you all for contributing and making this such a great resource for new guys like myself.



Nice light - first thing to do is crank up the pid controller so it wont lose its output so fast.

The SC 600 mk111 cool white 5700k version i have has a beautiful tint, dont let those yellow orange beam lovers lead you astray.

I have 20 plus lights in various tints and find the cool white tint to show more realistic color contrasts and not make everything a stained yellow color.

The only blue tinted cool whites i have are those 5mm key chain lights they give away, all my premium brand cw lights have a white beam.

Enjoy your new light.


----------



## FMKeith

swan said:


> Nice light - first thing to do is crank up the pid controller so it wont lose its output so fast.
> 
> The SC 600 mk111 cool white 5700k version i have has a beautiful tint, dont let those yellow orange beam lovers lead you astray.
> 
> I have 20 plus lights in various tints and find the cool white tint to show more realistic color contrasts and not make everything a stained yellow color.
> 
> The only blue tinted cool whites i have are those 5mm key chain lights they give away, all my premium brand cw lights have a white beam.
> 
> Enjoy your new light.



You set my mind at ease as far as color goes. Now let's talk size and weight. Haha. Do you EDC your SC600? How is it in pocket? Does it fit in jeans?


----------



## swan

FMKeith said:


> You set my mind at ease as far as color goes. Now let's talk size and weight. Haha. Do you EDC your SC600? How is it in pocket? Does it fit in jeans?



More of a top pocket light- but it will run cooler because of more thermal mass, throw further and maintain max brightness longer.


----------



## FMKeith

swan said:


> More of a top pocket light- but it will run cooler because of more thermal mass, throw further and maintain max brightness longer.



What do you mean top pocket? Does it fit in jeans and is it of EDC size. I am coming from a D25C, so I know that is a large difference in light. However, I have an S30R2 in my pocket right now and have been ok with that for a few weeks now.


----------



## recDNA

It is fine walking or standing imo. Presses against your leg when you sit. The 63 is better edc imo. I would use a holster with mk3


----------



## FMKeith

recDNA said:


> It is fine walking or standing imo. Presses against your leg when you sit. The 63 is better edc imo. I would use a holster with mk3



Thank you for the reply. That is very helpful. Maybe j won't buy the 600. My wallet can't take much more of this. Haha.


----------



## tops2

FMKeith said:


> What do you mean top pocket? Does it fit in jeans and is it of EDC size. I am coming from a D25C, so I know that is a large difference in light. However, I have an S30R2 in my pocket right now and have been ok with that for a few weeks now.



I only have the Zebralight SC5w and the head diameter is slightly larger than the SC63(w). I find the diameter uncomfortable in my front pocket (clipped to the top) depending on tightness of pants. I'd imagine the MKIII to be even more uncomfortable in my pants as pocket carry. FYI, I don't even wear skinny jeans! :nana:


----------



## emarkd

Can I just say that something like pocket comfort is a very personal thing. I'm sure recdna is accurately relaying his own experience, but others would probably disagree. I do...kinda. I mean the 600mk3 is about as thick of a light as I'd want to carry, but I don't find it uncomfortable. In fact I find it more comfortable than longer lights like that S30RII, especially when sitting. Obviously every dimension has its limits but for me I can handle a slightly thicker light better than a longer light, even if its more slender.

But yeah if an SC5w is too thick already then the 600mk3 isn't going to work for you...


----------



## wolfgaze

tops2 said:


> *FYI, I don't even wear skinny jeans!* :nana:



:laughing:

Thanks for clearing that up for us.....

I would say the SC5 is at the upper limit in terms of a size light (diameter wise) that I would feel comfortable carrying in my pants... I wear Propper brand Tactical/Cargo pants 90% of the time so they have some leeway in the pocket and space department.... If I was wearing jeans I know it would be a tighter fit but I can't wear jeans much anymore because there's not enough pockets to carry all of my 'stuff', hehe....

When I get the SC600 (PLUS) I am going to also buy a Maxpedition 4" Flashlight Sheath (another user confirms this is a good fit)....


----------



## Nuppet

The SC63w I bought had an unstable output on L1 that was quite disturbing when reading as it seemed that the light was flickering. When walking around it was not noticeable, except when reading, ugh!

A replacement SC63w is on the way from the seller and they wrote that this problem is seen more often, without giving more details as regards to models.


----------



## Nuppet

Nuppet said:


> The SC63w I bought had an unstable output on L1 that was quite disturbing when reading as it seemed that the light was flickering. When walking around it was not noticeable, except when reading, ugh!
> 
> A replacement SC63w is on the way from the seller and they wrote that this problem is seen more often, without giving more details as regards to models.



The seller was very quick with a replacement SC63w after reproducing the fault, but sadly, this one as well has unstable light output on L1. Now I'm a bit at loss what todo as the return shipment cost a bit more that 15% of the flashlight's price.

Do anyone else have problem with unstable light output on SC63w?


----------



## tops2

Nuppet said:


> The seller was very quick with a replacement SC63w after reproducing the fault, but sadly, this one as well has unstable light output on L1. Now I'm a bit at loss what todo as the return shipment cost a bit more that 15% of the flashlight's price.
> 
> Do anyone else have problem with unstable light output on SC63w?



What battery are you using? Does your battery rattle or sound loose in your light?

While not required, it sounds like a high drain battery is recommended (but not required).


----------



## Nuppet

tops2 said:


> What battery are you using? Does your battery rattle or sound loose in your light?
> 
> While not required, it sounds like a high drain battery is recommended (but not required).



I'm using Sanyo NCR18650GA, specifically bought for this flashlight, that should be more than sufficient at high draw, but the unstable output is on L1 (3.3 lumen) only, so high drain is not an issue for just this problem. The fault was reproduced by the seller with a quick replacement SC63w from them.

There are no rattling as there is a spring in the tail cap, and not pogo pins, on my two exemplars. To be honest, I think the spring might be a bit tight since the previous light left some (slight) marks on the batteries.

I really like the format and the very long run time on this flashlight along with the very important Li-Ion battery safety features. It has the same weight with a battery as my SC5w and SC5Fw, a bit longer but slimmer, but four times the run time for the same lumens output. It will be placed in a Maxpedition Fatty organizer to take with me when day-hiking. I'm looking for an additional one but this unstable output put me a bit off, to be honest.


----------



## snowlover91

Hmm that is strange, I checked my SC63w and it doesn't exhibit any unstable output at that level. It sounds like a possible driver issue to me, the tight springs shouldn't affect anything especially since it's related to only that one mode. Where did you purchase the light from?


----------



## Nuppet

I bought from nknon.nl along with other Zebralights earlier that works just fine.

I'll use the light more and see if the unstable light output disappears. The previous SC63w did not exhibit this in the beginning, or at least I did not notice, but after a couple of months of very light use it was very noticeable when reading on L1, or just put the flashlight on a table pointing at the white ceiling.


----------



## snowlover91

Nuppet said:


> I bought from nknon.nl along with other Zebralights earlier that works just fine.
> 
> I'll use the light more and see if the unstable light output disappears. The previous SC63w did not exhibit this in the beginning, or at least I did not notice, but after a couple of months of very light use it was very noticeable when reading on L1, or just put the flashlight on a table pointing at the white ceiling.



That is interesting, I've not seen any other reports of this issue at least on here. I know my SC62w did this briefly awhile back for a few days, I have no idea why and suddenly stopped as soon as it started. It did it on the H2 level though and different batteries didn't resolve the issue. Letting it sit on the shelf for a few days without any battery installed seemed to fix the issue and it's worked fine ever since. Maybe that would help?


----------



## tops2

Sorry about that.. Was reading this when I first woke up and thought you mentioned H1, not L1! Weird problem then...


----------



## Rhinny2012

I'm definitely new at this and most of you have probably forgotten more than I know, but I have an SC52w that was flickering after charging the battery. So I took out the battery (an eneloop xx) and cleaned both ends of the battery with alcohol on a q-tip and let it dry before replacing it. The negative end literally left some black on the q-tip and it's been perfect ever since. Just a thought.


----------



## Jbones

Welcome ! I had 3 of the current "big" zebras; the sc63 in cool white, mk3 neutral, and mk3 neutral high intensity

The tint is all about personal preference, cool white is definitely like hospital lighting, very white. Where as the neutral I felt was much more natural, and to me more favorable. The flip side is the cool white is definitely a lot more bright and bouncy, shine it at the ceiling in the living room and it lights up the neighbors. Neutral will do the same but with much less color wash

After about a month of playing around with all of them I decided to sell the sc63 CW only because the heat buildup was too much for me compared to the bigger mk3, I use these guys at work all the time (as a plumber/firefighter) and whenever I would turn the sc63 on it definitely turned some heads, but ended up too distracting because the thermal pid kicked in so fast. Off the top of my head, like 30 seconds fast. Also the size difference to me is so negligible between the two, both very pocketable lights. So it became more of a style factor in my eyes, well more my girlfriends cuz she liked the "cuteness" of it, until I turned on the sun

Really impressive little light, no doubt, but another thing that got me about this guy was the fact that it didn't have the pogo pins in the tailcap like the mk3's do

Different strokes for different folks, but one things for sure, zebralight, especially their UI, makes some awesome stuff ! Enjoy


----------



## gunga

I had really unstable l1 output on a zebralight h600fc 3. I needed to exchange it.


----------



## Cunha

anyone know a cause of this? Just curious.


----------



## KeepingItLight

Nuppet said:


> I bought from nknon.nl along with other Zebralights earlier that works just fine.
> 
> I'll use the light more and see if the unstable light output disappears. The previous SC63w did not exhibit this in the beginning, or at least I did not notice, but after a couple of months of very light use it was very noticeable when reading on L1, or just put the flashlight on a table pointing at the white ceiling.



What a bummer! 

Flickering can be caused by dirty/oxidized contact points. By now, you have probably heard this already. Clean the springs, battery, inside of tail cap, and the rim of the body tube with cotton swabs dipped in isopropyl alcohol. Let dry, and, if possible, coat with DeoxIt.

If you decide to exchange this one, ask the seller to verify that the replacement works right _BEFORE_ it is shipped to you!

Good luck.


----------



## Outdoorsman5

QUESTION:
I have not been around CPF in a while, but used to spend quite a bit of my time here....had to stop that nonsense (30+ lights!) I wanted to buy an additional SC62w, but saw there's a newer version. After reading waaaay too long, I wanted to ask what everyone thought of the SC63w vs the SC62w. Do you like the SC63w better or worse? Why?

What's most important to me is size & weight, use 18650, with awesome levels - which is why I have settled on zebralights H600w and SC62w for extended backpacking trips, climbing/rappelling, caving, canoeing, and running before sun up most mornings.

By the way, as I was reading I discovered the new HI LED's (wow, didn't know about those!!)


----------



## emarkd

I have both the sc62w and the sc63w. I prefer my '62w, but I did get one with kinda greenish tint in the spill. If you get a good tint then it would be a closer race, but honestly I don't see a big improvement from one to the other in any form. I mean for new buyers the '63w makes sense but I wouldn't consider it a big upgrade for existing '62w owners.


----------



## Outdoorsman5

emarkd said:


> I have both the sc62w and the sc63w. I prefer my '62w, but I did get one with kinda greenish tint in the spill. If you get a good tint then it would be a closer race, but honestly I don't see a big improvement from one to the other in any form. I mean for new buyers the '63w makes sense but I wouldn't consider it a big upgrade for existing '62w owners.



Thanks for the reply. I have an SC62w already, and need another one for my wife and/or son. I love the body style of the SC62w and from the pictures I'm not loving the new SC63w as much. The difference in lumens will prolly not be noticeable. Anybody else have any input before I buy the SC62w instead of the newer one?


----------



## snowlover91

I have both the SC63w and 62w and love them both. For me the advantages of the 63w are the smooth tube for pocket carry and the extra brightness, it is noticeable for me. Using unprotected batteries is also preferred and they don't rattle at all in my 63w. For the 62w I like the beam pattern slightly better and the tint is a little better also, but this may be luck of the draw also. Either way both are excellent choices


----------



## KeepingItLight

I own the *ZebraLight SC62w*. I decided to pass on the SC63. Considering how good the SC62 is, I could not justify the expense for the upgrade. 

Towards the end of summer, ZebraLight is planning to release a model that I probably will buy. It is the *ZebraLight SC600Fd Mk. III Plus*. It will feature the high output of a Cree XHP50 emitter, coupled with neutral tint (CCT 5000K) and high CRI (93-95 Ra).


----------



## recDNA

KeepingItLight said:


> I own the *ZebraLight SC62w*. I decided to pass on the SC63. Considering how good the SC62 is, I could not justify the expense for the upgrade.
> 
> Towards the end of summer, ZebraLight is planning to release a model that I probably will buy. It is the *ZebraLight SC600Fd Mk. III Plus*. It will feature the high output of a Cree XHP50 emitter, coupled with neutral tint (CCT 5000K) and high CRI (93-95 Ra).


Now you're talking!


----------



## jak

Outdoorsman5 said:


> QUESTION:
> I have not been around CPF in a while, but used to spend quite a bit of my time here....had to stop that nonsense (30+ lights!) I wanted to buy an additional SC62w, but saw there's a newer version. After reading waaaay too long, I wanted to ask what everyone thought of the SC63w vs the SC62w. Do you like the SC63w better or worse? Why?
> 
> What's most important to me is size & weight, use 18650, with awesome levels - which is why I have settled on zebralights H600w and SC62w for extended backpacking trips, climbing/rappelling, caving, canoeing, and running before sun up most mornings.


I have both. Haven't used my 62 since I got the 63. One time I accidentally grabbed the 62 on my way out the door and didn't notice until later that day I reached in my pocket to find a flashlight full of ribs. I was genuinely disappointed I didn't have "the good one" with me. I haven't got around to listing it yet, but I'm going to sell that 62w. (Sidenote: What ever happened to CPF Panjo site?)

I say get the 63 and try it out. If you like it better keep it, if not, pass it on to your wife or son. It's not like any one is gonna end up with a bad light.

I'd love to hear what others have observed, but the battery life on my 63 seems unending! I use it daily, and have left it on overnight for several nights in a row on a single charge -and I'm STILL getting 4 out of 4 flashes. (I'm using the battery from the Zebralight website.)


----------



## markr6

Outdoorsman5 said:


> QUESTION:
> I have not been around CPF in a while, but used to spend quite a bit of my time here....had to stop that nonsense (30+ lights!) I wanted to buy an additional SC62w, but saw there's a newer version. After reading waaaay too long, I wanted to ask what everyone thought of the SC63w vs the SC62w. Do you like the SC63w better or worse? Why?



Yeah I haven't seen you around! Others seemed to cover it, but going from the 62 to 63 isn't a big deal. I did it just because I like to try newer lights and have the new style. The tint is a little better on my 63, but the 62s Ive had varied more than any other light, so that's just luck.


----------



## Outdoorsman5

jak said:


> (Sidenote: What ever happened to CPF Panjo site?)



Wow, didn't knwo CPF Panjo was gone...I sold a vinh light on that site last year, and was very easy. Is CPF MarketPlace still around, or is there another site to sell our used lights?



jak said:


> I say get the 63 and try it out. If you like it better keep it, if not, pass it on to your wife or son. It's not like any one is gonna end up with a bad light.



Good point, and I'd forgotten about the shreaded pockets I used to get from my SC62w & SC52w. I don't carry a primary light everyday anymore. My flashaholic-ism decreased when I stopped coming here regularly. After a while I even stopped carrying a primary light everyday. I only carry my lowly olight AAA light on my keychain which gets a decent amount of use plus I always have my iphone. I do still like using my great lights on my runs before sun up and on our monthly camping trips, so my love for great gear is still alive.



jak said:


> I'd love to hear what others have observed, but the battery life on my 63 seems unending! I use it daily, and have left it on overnight for several nights in a row on a single charge -and I'm STILL getting 4 out of 4 flashes. (I'm using the battery from the Zebralight website.)



BATTERY QUESTION - I have several Olight protected 3400mah 18650's with the button top. Do those fit in this light? Do the new protected 3600mah fit in it? ...or do I need to get one of the unprotected for this light (not sure why I even use protected as all my lights have protection built in.)


----------



## Outdoorsman5

markr6 said:


> Yeah I haven't seen you around! Others seemed to cover it, but going from the 62 to 63 isn't a big deal. I did it just because I like to try newer lights and have the new style. The tint is a little better on my 63, but the 62s Ive had varied more than any other light, so that's just luck.



Wow! I remember you! I remember many, and had a great time hang around here (very expensive though!) When I left my boring job & got a better/busier job I gravitated away from cpf. Anyway, I've had fun the last couple of days catching up on all I missed plus learning about the new "HI" lights. Was going to buy a SC600 HI.....until I found the Nitcore MH20GT (I like the 33,000 cd better than the 17,000 cd on the SC600 HI!!) ......................HERE WE GO AGAIN WITH BUYING MORE LIGHTS DANG IT!!!!!!! Why do they keep making better ones.......*WHY!!!!!!???????*


----------



## snowlover91

The SC63 light will use unprotected only. The 18650ga works well in the newer Zebralights and has excellent capacity. Protected cells are too long and will not fit in the new 63 or MK3 series of lights. The MK3 HI is probably my favorite ZL now due to the blend of small size, excellent thermal management, great tint and blend of spill/throw. An instant classic and one of their best lights imo.


----------



## Outdoorsman5

snowlover91 said:


> The SC63 light will use unprotected only. The 18650ga works well in the newer Zebralights and has excellent capacity. Protected cells are too long and will not fit in the new 63 or MK3 series of lights. The MK3 HI is probably my favorite ZL now due to the blend of small size, excellent thermal management, great tint and blend of spill/throw. An instant classic and one of their best lights imo.



Snowlover91, I need you to be quiet now  because every time you write something I feel the need to buy more lights. Shhhhhh. 

I have spent only a few hours back on cpf after being gone for a long time, and just like that I want to buy 3 new lights (zebra sc63w, zebra sc600 mkIII HI, and nitecore mh20gt)!!! I love this place and love this community! Carry on...


----------



## markr6

Yeah that SC600 HI is undeniably my favorite light. I had to get one after all the talk and threads like "Zebralight SC600 MKIII HI BUY IT!"


----------



## Outdoorsman5

markr6 said:


> Yeah that SC600 HI is undeniably my favorite light. I had to get one after all the talk and threads like "Zebralight SC600 MKIII HI BUY IT!"



Your "favorite light" you say...."had to get one after all the talk" you say....it's words like those that poison my brains man!!!!! I guess I'll HAVE to buy one now. I have to admit that after years of searching for the perfect headlight for trail running, when I finally found the Zebra H600w MkI & MII the search was finally over. I'm glad to say that it is still the very best trail running, backpacking, camping, fishing, hunting headlight around......and I've owned sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo many. Maybe the search isn't over, but it sure slowed to a crawl. 

I'll try out these new lights soon markr6 & snowlover91 (poisoners of my brains), and see for myself. Thanks man!!


----------



## RogueStatus

Ive had a few ZL, and the only one ive decided to keep has been the SC63W. Love this little light! Perfect form factor and i just love the interface of the board.


----------



## zzuiram

Hi

If anyone can measure the diameter of the tube in places like in the picture?
I would like to check if the flashlight fits into Fenix Headband.


----------



## Connor

1: 22 mm
2: 21 mm


----------



## zzuiram

Connor said:


> 1: 22 mm
> 2: 21 mm



Very thanks!


----------



## Nuppet

KeepingItLight said:


> What a bummer!
> 
> Flickering can be caused by dirty/oxidized contact points. By now, you have probably heard this already. Clean the springs, battery, inside of tail cap, and the rim of the body tube with cotton swabs dipped in isopropyl alcohol. Let dry, and, if possible, coat with DeoxIt.
> 
> If you decide to exchange this one, ask the seller to verify that the replacement works right _BEFORE_ it is shipped to you!
> 
> Good luck.




I got a replacement light today and the light output are stable on the levels I checked. However, there is a slight "monster eye" of a darker/purplish/pinkish color on the middle when shining on a light colored walls.

To be honest, I'm a bit disappointed as this is the 3rd SC63w with a defect. But now I'm not sure if I'll return the light again. There where no problems with the two SC5/SC5w I bought from the same place.

Edit: I'll let the light be on for while and with some luck the monsters get gobbled up.


----------



## snowlover91

The lighter area in the middle of the beam is likely not a defect but due to the emitter used. Mine exhibits a slightly lighter spot in the middle but it's not really noticeable unless I shine it close on a wall and look really hard for it. It's due to the design of the xhp35 emitter and quite common with others like the xhp50 or xhp70 also. The only way to eliminate it is to either have a very heavy orange peel texture or a frosted lens.


----------



## markr6

I haven't seen any irregularities in my SC63w beam. It's perfectly smooth/consistent in the center. But I do remember that purple eye in my SC5w.

Here's an underexposed image to show the detail (on right)


----------



## Nuppet

The two other SC63w did exhibit a slightly darker center that was not really noticeable, but this one has a pinkish/purplish center. So the center is pinkish/purplish, has an outer yellowish band. Outside that there is whither band that fades into yellow. This one has the worst tint of the three SC63w.


----------



## snowlover91

Nuppet said:


> The two other SC63w did exhibit a slightly darker center that was not really noticeable, but this one has a pinkish/purplish center. So the center is pinkish/purplish, has an outer yellowish band. Outside that there is whither band that fades into yellow. This one has the worst tint of the three SC63w.



Hmm it sounds like something with the emitter then that may be the issue, mine is slightly darker in the center when shone on a white wall but you have to get the right distance and really look for it. Yours sounds like it might be a worse issue and if you're not happy with it I would definitely exchange or return it. If you don't mind a slightly bulkier light, the MK3 HI has the best tint imo.


----------



## markr6

I've only seen a few complains about this purple spot now. It just comes down to luck unfortunately. I had to try three SC63w until I got one I liked and still it's only OK, not great. I've told the story before, but in the past I visited a local dealer who had cases of Zebralights...something like 100 per case. I went through about a dozen different lights to compare and the variation between all of them was staggering. That's why you really have to give very little weight to comments like "SC5w tint is much better than the SC63w".

It's not the light, it's not Zebralight being pickier all of a sudden. It's pure luck.


----------



## snowlover91

I will say I haven't seen anyone complain about the MK3 HI tint, everyone on here who has one has gotten great results. Perhaps that specific emitter is more consistent or there is less variation with it?


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> I will say I haven't seen anyone complain about the MK3 HI tint, everyone on here who has one has gotten great results. Perhaps that specific emitter is more consistent or there is less variation with it?



For me I think it's the sheer power and throw (for a ZL) that distracts me from the tint. It's still good, but not as good as some other ZLs I've had. And I always use it on one of the higher levels, which seems to help any tint look better.


----------



## wolfgaze

markr6 said:


> I've only seen a few complains about this purple spot now. It just comes down to luck unfortunately. I had to try three SC63w until I got one I liked and still it's only OK, not great. I've told the story before, but in the past I visited a local dealer who had cases of Zebralights...something like 100 per case. I went through about a dozen different lights to compare and the variation between all of them was staggering. That's why you really have to give very little weight to comments like "SC5w tint is much better than the SC63w".
> 
> It's not the light, it's not Zebralight being pickier all of a sudden. It's pure luck.



Mark... What type of local dealer keeps 100 SKU's of a single light on hand at any given time? That seems really excessive...


----------



## markr6

wolfgaze said:


> Mark... What type of local dealer keeps 100 SKU's of a single light on hand at any given time? That seems really excessive...



It appears they ship ZL in large cube boxes. I want to say they were close to 2'x2'x2'. When you picture an SC52w box, that adds up quick. I could be wrong, but at least give me 75 to a box. When you consider a dealer receiving a product from half way around the world, it makes sense to order enough to make it worthwhile.

I'd rather not mention the dealer, although I believe I did in the past.

I can't comment on the business, that's his call. I hope it's working out for him! Haven't heard anything in a while.


----------



## wolfgaze

markr6 said:


> It appears they ship ZL in large cube boxes. I want to say they were close to 2'x2'x2'. When you picture an SC52w box, that adds up quick. I could be wrong, but at least give me 75 to a box. When you consider a dealer receiving a product from half way around the world, it makes sense to order enough to make it worthwhile.
> 
> I'd rather not mention the dealer, although I believe I did in the past.
> 
> I can't comment on the business, that's his call. I hope it's working out for him! Haven't heard anything in a while.



That's okay you don't have to mention the dealer. I'm just trying to imagine how frequently a local Brick & Mortar store could be selling through various ZL sku's to the extent that they would seek to keep hundreds of units on hand in inventory... Perhaps the supply chain is such that the Dealers need to order in bulk because frequent re-ordering is not supported through the manufacturer... The downside is that you could end up sitting on a lot of unsold inventory...

That's cool that the management there let you test the inventory like that.... I've never been to a store that had flashlights on display for Customer's to handle and play with - but then again I rarely go shopping in public and by my area/location I only know of the larger chain Sporting Goods stores...


----------



## eraursls1984

wolfgaze said:


> That's okay you don't have to mention the dealer. I'm just trying to imagine how frequently a local Brick & Mortar store could be selling through various ZL sku's to the extent that they would seek to keep hundreds of units on hand in inventory... Perhaps the supply chain is such that the Dealers need to order in bulk because frequent re-ordering is not supported through the manufacturer... The downside is that you could end up sitting on a lot of unsold inventory...
> 
> That's cool that the management there let you test the inventory like that.... I've never been to a store that had flashlights on display for Customer's to handle and play with - but then again I rarely go shopping in public and by my area/location I only know of the larger chain Sporting Goods stores...


With Zebralights it's not worthwhile to order small quantities for retail. Zebra's have a bad mark up, and the only way to make a little money selling them is to buy large quantities. Perhaps he went to the storefront of an online dealer.


----------



## markr6

wolfgaze said:


> That's cool that the management there let you test the inventory like that.... I've never been to a store that had flashlights on display for Customer's to handle and play with - but then again I rarely go shopping in public and by my area/location I only know of the larger chain Sporting Goods stores...





eraursls1984 said:


> With Zebralights it's not worthwhile to order small quantities for retail. Zebra's have a bad mark up, and the only way to make a little money selling them is to buy large quantities. Perhaps he went to the storefront of an online dealer.



You got it!

I don't know of any places selling ZL other than Going Gear in GA that you could visit in person. The vendor I visited was not a retail outlet open to the public. But I went to high school with him and he's just a really nice guy, so he let me into his home/shop to give them a test before buying.


----------



## markr6

Not sure if this was mentioned yet, but I just tried the SC600w HI cap on my SC63w. It fit just fine without too much pressure on the battery. Just curious, not something I would care to do on a regular basis.


----------



## zzuiram

Nuppet said:


> The two other SC63w did exhibit a slightly darker center that was not really noticeable, but this one has a pinkish/purplish center. So the center is pinkish/purplish, has an outer yellowish band. Outside that there is whither band that fades into yellow. This one has the worst tint of the three SC63w.



Oh my God! ZebraLight can't make a good OP reflector, which would give a homogeneous ane even spot...:fail:

I wanted to order H600w Mk III XHP35, but I see that there is too much risk that I receive a low quality product.
I'm sorry Zebralight. If you don't improve the beam quality, I will not buy your products.


----------



## Cobraman502

zzuiram said:


> Oh my God! ZebraLight can't make a good OP reflector, which would give a homogeneous ane even spot...:fail:
> 
> I wanted to order H600w Mk III XHP35, but I see that there is too much risk that I receive a low quality product.
> I'm sorry Zebralight. If you don't improve the beam quality, I will not buy your products.



I just ordered mine, hope it comes in and works as I hope. It's my first Zebralight hope they don't let me down.


----------



## snowlover91

zzuiram said:


> Oh my God! ZebraLight can't make a good OP reflector, which would give a homogeneous ane even spot...:fail:
> 
> I wanted to order H600w Mk III XHP35, but I see that there is too much risk that I receive a low quality product.
> I'm sorry Zebralight. If you don't improve the beam quality, I will not buy your products.



Not sure if you are serious or not? Zebralight is anything but a "low quality product." Sometimes they may have some QC issues or tint variations among certain emitters which can happen with any company. The beam quality on my 63w and many others on here is fine. The xhp35 emitter produces a slightly different beam versus the previous xm-l2.


----------



## zzuiram

snowlover91 said:


> Not sure if you are serious or not? Zebralight is anything but a "low quality product."



Main feature of flashlights is lighting. If Zebralight can't make good quality optical system in their non-flood (non-floody) lights, then I can call them as low quality products.
Poor optics = poor flashlight. In my opinion quality of beam is the most important.


----------



## markr6

I can't be sure, but I blame the LED for that purple eye. I've only seen 2 other instances in addition to mine (SC5w)


----------



## fnsooner

Cobraman502 said:


> I just ordered mine, hope it comes in and works as I hope. It's my first Zebralight hope they don't let me down.


I think you will be happy with your purchase. Be sure to give your impressions either way. 

BTW, I saw that you posted in the HI thread too. Did you order both a SC63 and a SC600w HI? If so, they are very complimentary to each other. I prefer the 63 but that is mostly due to me needing a more floody light;


----------



## roger-roger

zzuiram said:


> Main feature of flashlights is lighting. If Zebralight can't make good quality optical system in their non-flood (non-floody) lights, then I can call them as low quality products.
> Poor optics = poor flashlight. In my opinion quality of beam is the most important.




yawn.


----------



## twistedraven

Zebralight makes real good reflectors. None of my Zebralights have had defects in their beams.


----------



## markr6

I've never seen a bad reflector in any of my cheap lights either. Definitely not Zebralights. So again, I blame the LED.


----------



## snowlover91

zzuiram said:


> Main feature of flashlights is lighting. If Zebralight can't make good quality optical system in their non-flood (non-floody) lights, then I can call them as low quality products.
> Poor optics = poor flashlight. In my opinion quality of beam is the most important.



You do realize this likely has to do with individual emitter variation rather than the actual reflector right? Emitters can have a wide range in tint/color temp and the overall consensus is positive. Yes one poster has had a few bad lights but every company has some that are defective. Calling a company like ZL cheap, poor quality, etc are strong accusations to make with no basis for such claims. Jmho.


----------



## Cobraman502

fnsooner said:


> I think you will be happy with your purchase. Be sure to give your impressions either way.
> 
> BTW, I saw that you posted in the HI thread too. Did you order both a SC63 and a SC600w HI? If so, they are very complimentary to each other. I prefer the 63 but that is mostly due to me needing a more floody light;



I just bought the SC600w HI not both. I was considering the SC63 but from what I ready about the tint of the SC600 HI I would not pass on it.


----------



## markr6

I always said my SC63w tint was OK, but not great. And my SC600 HI is great as most agree. But when I put them side by side, holding them at different distances from a wall to simulate the same beam size and mode to match brightness, they look the same. I think the HI is just so impressive with that hotspot that the tint appears better. And not just on the high modes, since that almost always makes the tint look whiter.


----------



## psychbeat

The domeless emitters also have less tint shift in my experience - not that I really care  
I use my lights outdoors 90% and usually have a diffuser (tape or bottle cap) if using indoors for prolonged periods. 

To hear the tint & beam complaints here a 
NON-enthusiast might think these lights unusable which is far from the case.
Even a **** green with purple spill looks way better than a cheapo cold blue shower head and will light up what u need to see ahead - especially in a forest or whatever.


----------



## fnsooner

markr6 said:


> I always said my SC63w tint was OK, but not great. And my SC600 HI is great as most agree. But when I put them side by side, holding them at different distances from a wall to simulate the same beam size and mode to match brightness, they look the same. I think the HI is just so impressive with that hotspot that the tint appears better. And not just on the high modes, since that almost always makes the tint look whiter.


I agree with this. 

All of my 6x series neutral lights, up until the 63w, have leaned towards cream instead of yellow(gasp). There was a little bit of an adjustment period when I went to the 63w. I like the tint on the 63w fine. If I didn't I would continue to carry the 62w.



Cobraman502 said:


> I just bought the SC600w HI not both. I was considering the SC63 but from what I ready about the tint of the SC600 HI I would not pass on it.


Ah, OK. Enjoy your new light. I think you will.


----------



## twistedraven

I dunno, the pure whitish-blue tint coming out of my maglite 2aa looks amazing next to anything cool-white cree.


----------



## tops2

markr6 said:


> I always said my SC63w tint was OK, but not great. And my SC600 HI is great as most agree. But when I put them side by side, holding them at different distances from a wall to simulate the same beam size and mode to match brightness, they look the same. I think the HI is just so impressive with that *hotspot that the tint appears better. And not just on the high modes, since that almost always makes the tint look whiter*.



Just saw this here. While not related to the lights discussed here, I was comparing my newly bought H600Fd tint vs SC5w and at first looked like my SC5w was much more white even though the spill looked more yellow. That hotspot really threw me off in terms of tint and brightness. I ended up using 2 different iphone camera apps with auto white balancing off to see if I can see the temperature difference (and both is closer to what the spec mentions).


----------



## defbear

I hit the tint jack pot on my sc63. Very bright but warm. I have the sc63w and sc600III Hi also. I think I know what the warm tints look like. Sometimes I have to look at the label of the sc63 and see if I picked up the sc63w. This sc63 portrays colors Much Better than any other cool white I've seen.


----------



## SubLGT

A question for you SC63 owners: what did the SC63 gain or lose, compared to the SC62, by switching to a XHP35 LED?


----------



## emarkd

SubLGT said:


> A question for you SC63 owners: what did the SC63 gain or lose, compared to the SC62, by switching to a XHP35 LED?


Gained some output and some breadth (more floody). I also think it gained some "looks" and is a prettier light. 

Lost some tint quality, at least in my experience. Also lost some battery flexibility, if that matters to you.

Personally I don't find the difference worth the upgrade. I own both lights but if I could only keep one it would be my SC62w because tint trumps aesthetics and overall output for me, and my sc62w wins on that point.


----------



## gunga

I have both. Like both. I use the sc63w more but I wouldn't upgrade if I had the sc62w. I just wanted both.


----------



## SubLGT

gunga said:


> I have both. Like both. I use the sc63w more but I wouldn't upgrade if I had the sc62w. I just wanted both.



I own a SC62w. I want another ZL for my collection. I was thinking of getting a SC63w. But maybe a better option would be the SC600 III Hi.


----------



## SubLGT

emarkd said:


> Gained some output and some breadth (more floody). I also think it gained some "looks" and is a prettier light.
> 
> Lost some tint quality, at least in my experience. Also lost some battery flexibility, if that matters to you.
> 
> Personally I don't find the difference worth the upgrade….



Hmmmm, I think the combo of SC62w + SC63w makes a lot less sense for me than SC62w + SC600w III Hi


----------



## emarkd

SubLGT said:


> Hmmmm, I think the combo of SC62w + SC63w makes a lot less sense for me than SC62w + SC600w III Hi


I would _easily_ take an sc600w mk3 HI over an sc63w. Actually I've got both, but yeah, if I could only keep one it would definitely be the mk3 HI. Especially if you've already got the sc62w.


----------



## recDNA

I still wish they put an XP-L HI in the sc600 mark iii


----------



## roger-roger

SubLGT said:


> Hmmmm, I think the combo of SC62w + SC63w makes a lot less sense for me than SC62w + SC600w III Hi




I considered for a while updating my SC62w for an SC63w. In the end and on paper, owning both seemed redundant unless one needed two each of basically the same model.


----------



## gunga

It's more of a "want" thing. Owning the 62 and 63 is redundant.


----------



## UnderPar

gunga said:


> It's more of a "want" thing. Owning the 62 and 63 is redundant.



I second to this. Coz I have both on NW


----------



## roger-roger

gunga said:


> It's more of a "want" thing. Owning the 62 and 63 is redundant.




I want!


----------



## gunga

Yeah. It was worth it. Go for it! Make sure to get a deep carry clip from USA knifemakers.


----------



## Andrey

Observing a strange behavior of an SC63w as battery gets close to empty.
After an automatic switch from the H to M mode during discharge, if H mode is selected again, light turns on at about 3 lm. Doubleclick enables one of the H submodes, from which light quickly switches to M. Continuation of switching to H in this fashion at some point no longer enables a bright submode by doubleclick and light remains at 3 lm mode. In a few seconds, as a voltage of the resting battery increases, the bright mode comes on again for a few seconds just to switch down to the M mode.
At first I thought this was due to voltage fluctuations of a specific battery, but got exactly same results with a different accumulator. Both cells are new NCR18650GA.

Is this a glitch of a particular driver or all SC63's now have such implementation of the mode switch mechanism during battery discharge?


----------



## snowlover91

I believe this is a result of the voltage protection features keeping the light from over discharging the battery. It's not really designed to be operating at those levels but instead to step down, give you a few minutes to find a replacement battery and keep going.


----------



## Native89

I'm curious, what was the voltage of the batteries in the end?


----------



## Andrey

*Snowlover91*, the battery protection functionality is a nice feature of the light. It is a great advantage of Zebras running on unprotected cells: discharging battery will not suddenly leave you in the dark allowing plenty of time to get a replacement accumulator or light.
What I meant, however, is that SC63w behavior differs from other Zebralights: after re-enabling H mode, instead of switching down to M, the light steps down the H mode itself to 3 lm.

*Native89*, SC63w turns off when battery voltage drops to about 2.70 V.


----------



## snowlover91

Andrey said:


> *Snowlover91*, the battery protection functionality is a nice feature of the light. It is a great advantage of Zebras running on unprotected cells: discharging battery will not suddenly leave you in the dark allowing plenty of time to get a replacement accumulator or light.
> What I meant, however, is that SC63w behavior differs from other Zebralights: after re-enabling H mode, instead of switching down to M, the light steps down the H mode itself to 3 lm.
> 
> *Native89*, SC63w turns off when battery voltage drops to about 2.70 V.



I've seen similar behavior with my 63w, 62w and MK3 HI. What I think is happening is that it initially turns on the high mode but quickly realizes the battery is very depleted and can't handle the medium mode so it drops down to low. It only exhibits this behavior for me if the battery is extremely depleted and in dire need of recharging. It will soon shut off too if the light is still used for more than a few minutes.


----------



## RTTR

I'm about to order the SC63, question. this is actually a universal question about Zebralights, some photos of the SC lights that have the "power on" symbol on the button show it to be slightly misaligned in either given direction, is this something that can be corrected? My OCD can't handle that, I can deal with the anodizing issues, my $200+ Surefires have mis-match anodizing, it is what it is.


----------



## TCY

RTTR said:


> I'm about to order the SC63, question. this is actually a universal question about Zebralights, some photos of the SC lights that have the "power on" symbol on the button show it to be slightly misaligned in either given direction, is this something that can be corrected? My OCD can't handle that, I can deal with the anodizing issues, my $200+ Surefires have mis-match anodizing, it is what it is.



Hmm how about if you get an unit with the weird switch, contact ZL about this issue for an RMA and get another one?


----------



## RTTR

TCY said:


> Hmm how about if you get an unit with the weird switch, contact ZL about this issue for an RMA and get another one?



Not to be sarcastic, that comment is exactly how I became a multiple Surefire owner and left all these smaller companies behind, I played the RMA run around with FourSevens years ago, can't comment on them today, gave up on it all. Granted at this point Surefire is far from innovative to me anymore I'm ready to come back to the current technology. I can only hope I get a good one is all.


----------



## TCY

RTTR said:


> Not to be sarcastic, that comment is exactly how I became a multiple Surefire owner and left all these smaller companies behind, I played the RMA run around with FourSevens years ago, can't comment on them today, gave up on it all. Granted at this point Surefire is far from innovative to me anymore I'm ready to come back to the current technology. I can only hope I get a good one is all.



I would say you have a very good chance of getting a well aligned switch. It is designed to "face towards" the LED, and the button on my sample of SC62W is perfectly OCD friendly.


----------



## StandardBattery

RTTR said:


> I'm about to order the SC63, question. this is actually a universal question about Zebralights, some photos of the SC lights that have the "power on" symbol on the button show it to be slightly misaligned in either given direction, is this something that can be corrected? My OCD can't handle that, I can deal with the anodizing issues, my $200+ Surefires have mis-match anodizing, it is what it is.


The SC62W is on Clearance and in Stock as of right now. I'd recommend that as your first Zebra Light.... then you'll have an excuse to buy a second one and compare them. If you're not happy with the SC62w then Zebra light may not be for you, but they get along with my Surefire lights. I've not been a fan of PK lights since SF, but his PL2 is quite interesting if a bit long for a keychain light, and the price is reasonable. Not a replacement for the best non-tactical EDC ever though (the SC62w). Good luck finding some new lights. I have not been here in a couple of years I think, but checking out some new toys for fun, not that I need a new light.


----------



## Bob_McBob

I ordered an SC63w from nkon earlier this month and monitored the yellow spot thread with much trepidation while awaiting its arrival. I received it yesterday and unfortunately it has the yellow dot beam artifact, which is readily apparent during use, not just on white walls. I really like the light otherwise; it's a great size and weight and has a nice wide beam. The tint is nowhere near as nice as my SC600w Mk3 HI, but it's acceptable. However, I can't live with the dot.

What is my best course of action here? I would quite like to get a good copy of this light. Nkon have a reasonable return policy as long as I send it back right away, so I could just order a new one from ZL and hope it's acceptable. Would I be better off trying to just RMA it with ZL instead? It seems like many people are receiving SC63ws with this issue, so I'm starting to wonder how many people actually own one that _doesn't_ have it.


----------



## TCY

Bob_McBob said:


> I ordered an SC63w from nkon earlier this month and monitored the yellow spot thread with much trepidation while awaiting its arrival. I received it yesterday and unfortunately it has the yellow dot beam artifact, which is readily apparent during use, not just on white walls. I really like the light otherwise; it's a great size and weight and has a nice wide beam. The tint is nowhere near as nice as my SC600w Mk3 HI, but it's acceptable. However, I can't live with the dot.
> 
> What is my best course of action here? I would quite like to get a good copy of this light. Nkon have a reasonable return policy as long as I send it back right away, so I could just order a new one from ZL and hope it's acceptable. Would I be better off trying to just RMA it with ZL instead? It seems like many people are receiving SC63ws with this issue, so I'm starting to wonder how many people actually own one that _doesn't_ have it.



ZL will probably ask you to take it to nkon since you didn't buy directly from them. Sending it back for a refund & buy from ZL or ask nkon for a replacement but this time let them test the light before sending it back to you?


----------



## markr6

Bob_McBob said:


> What is my best course of action here? I would quite like to get a good copy of this light. Nkon have a reasonable return policy as long as I send it back right away, so I could just order a new one from ZL and hope it's acceptable. Would I be better off trying to just RMA it with ZL instead? It seems like many people are receiving SC63ws with this issue, so I'm starting to wonder how many people actually own one that _doesn't_ have it.



If you are patient enough, I'd return it and try another. Roll the dice one more time. I bought the SC63w right at the beginning and the beam is perfect. Tiny bit warmer than I like, but I really can't complain.


----------



## Bob_McBob

Should I return the nkon one and get a new one directly from ZL instead? Of course they are conveniently out of stock right now. I'm just worried so many people seem to be receiving bad ones recently, which makes me wonder if there was a bad batch of emitters used in recent production, and every time I play the tint lottery I risk being hit by sales tax here in Canada. The beam artifact really is quite atrocious. There is a greenish yellow dot in the middle of the hot spot, surrounded by a light purple ring. It looks like a negative image in your vision from seeing a bright light, except it's on everything and becomes even more obvious when you sweep the light. The SC600w Mk III HI was my first nice LED flashlight, so I have probably been a bit spoiled in that regard.


----------



## markr6

Bob_McBob said:


> Should I return the nkon one and get a new one directly from ZL instead? Of course they are conveniently out of stock right now. I'm just worried so many people seem to be receiving bad ones recently, which makes me wonder if there was a bad batch of emitters used in recent production, and every time I play the tint lottery I risk being hit by sales tax here in Canada.



There's no way to tell. The minute someone posts something like "looks like the tint issues were corrected from that batch", you go ahead and buy one to find it just as bad, or worse. Unfortunately I've experienced that more than once. Personally, I'd return it and try again.


----------



## Bob_McBob

I sent the SC63w back to nkon last week. They told me they can check their stock for a better one, but I am skeptical about my chances with the tint lottery after hearing from various other SC63w owners. Here are some beam shots from the one I returned. The yellow green blob in the centre was visible up close and at a distance, and really just unacceptable. I love the size and brightness of the SC63w, but I'm starting to wonder whether I should look at alternative smaller EDC lights to complement the SC600w III HI.


----------



## snowlover91

Bob, the SC62w might be one to consider. For the most part the tint on these lights seems to be a little better than the 63w. I have both the 62w and 63w and my 62w tint is a little more pleasing to the eyes. It seems like the xhp35 emitter used in the 63w has a little bit of a yellowish tint or sometimes greenish if you get a bad one. Best of luck!


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Bob, the SC62w might be one to consider. For the most part the tint on these lights seems to be a little better than the 63w. I have both the 62w and 63w and my 62w tint is a little more pleasing to the eyes. It seems like the xhp35 emitter used in the 63w has a little bit of a yellowish tint or sometimes greenish if you get a bad one. Best of luck!



But two of my SC62w were horrible. One literally looked like one of those yellow anit-bug bulbs!

Still the usual...


----------



## TCY

markr6 said:


> But two of my SC62w were horrible. One literally looked like one of those yellow anit-bug bulbs!
> 
> Still the usual...



1/32,406,580 chance to hit that tint jackpot:naughty:


----------



## ieslei

Hi, guys. I recently bought a sc63w, i love the light, but i noticed one thing today when i was using it on my fenix headband. It makes a wird sound on H1. The sound goes away when the PID kicks in. Its a low sound but it got me worried. Sounds like a bee got stuck into the light, hehe the strobe and high beacon also make the sound when the led turns on. You guys noticed the same thing?

Cheers


----------



## fnsooner

ieslei said:


> Hi, guys. I recently bought a sc63w, i love the light, but i noticed one thing today when i was using it on my fenix headband. It makes a wird sound on H1. The sound goes away when the PID kicks in. Its a low sound but it got me worried. Sounds like a bee got stuck into the light, hehe the strobe and high beacon also make the sound when the led turns on. You guys noticed the same thing?
> 
> 
> Cheers


Sounds like inductor whine/hum. I have never heard it in any of my Zebralights. Actually, I have never heard it in any flashlight. Either I have been lucky or I am not able to percieve it.


Here is a quote from an old thread that seems to explain it.


Mr Happy said:


> The hum is caused by the alternating magnetic field in the coil reacting against the wires and the core and shaking them around. Better mechanical construction will reduce the volume, but it can never completely be eliminated because the wire itself is elastic and is being stretched and compressed by a microscopic amount.
> 
> A louder hum does not necessarily indicate poor electrical performance, but as an indirect indicator of poor manufacturing quality, it might have some correlation.
> 
> You have no doubt noticed that if you get close to a utility substation transformer you can always hear it humming, and it is fair to assume those things are constructed very solidly.


----------



## ieslei

Thanks for your info fnsooner  i noticed that this "hum" sound comes from the tailcap, not from the head. Now it all makes sense after reading your quote, maybe its a coil effect, hope its not heating up the contact.


----------



## fnsooner

I don't think there is any danger caused by inductor whine. It wouldn't hurt to clean the contacts where the tail cap contacts the end of the battery tube with a cotton swab and alcohol. It is the only thing that I can think of that you could do to try to quiet it down.


----------



## snowlover91

ieslei said:


> Thanks for your info fnsooner  i noticed that this "hum" sound comes from the tailcap, not from the head. Now it all makes sense after reading your quote, maybe its a coil effect, hope its not heating up the contact.



I had this inductor whine with my SC5fd by Zebralight. After a week or so of use it went away and it hasn't done it since. I've had a few other lights from other companies do the same thing and many times the noise will gradually go away the more the light is used. I have an old Nitecore that still does it occasionally but every other light of mine will have the noise go away after awhile  Try using it a lot for several days and see if that helps especially on the medium and high modes.


----------



## ieslei

fnsooner said:


> I don't think there is any danger caused by inductor whine. It wouldn't hurt to clean the contacts where the tail cap contacts the end of the battery tube with a cotton swab and alcohol. It is the only thing that I can think of that you could do to try to quiet it down.


I cleaned everything and now it sounds a little better. Doesnt bother me anymore. I will wait to see if it also goes away with time of use. Now I remember of having a sc52w that did same sound with 14500 on H1. Thanks for making things clear, guys.


----------



## start90a

ieslei said:


> Hi, guys. I recently bought a sc63w, i love the light, but i noticed one thing today when i was using it on my fenix headband. It makes a wird sound on H1. The sound goes away when the PID kicks in. Its a low sound but it got me worried. Sounds like a bee got stuck into the light, hehe the strobe and high beacon also make the sound when the led turns on. You guys noticed the same thing?
> 
> Cheers



My SC63 has same behaviour, but only with my LG MJ1's or LG MH1. In fact with Sanyo GA or Sony VTC6 it is completely silent.
Why this?


----------



## StandardBattery

start90a said:


> My SC63 has same behaviour, but only with my LG MJ1's or LG MH1. In fact with Sanyo GA or Sony VTC6 it is completely silent.
> Why this?


It maybe the GA and VT6 maintain a higher voltage at the high current draw. In which case it may change depending on the state of charge of the cell. Hopefully the contact is the same on all the cells. Are your MJ11 sells ever so slightly longer than your GA cells? even though the specs say they should be slightly shorter mine are slightly longer. I think it's mostly the wrapper that is longer which means the positive terminal does not protrude as much. anyway not much you can do about it, but some how the frequency of the DC/DC converter when using the one cell is causing the inductor to resonate, very common in these circuits.


----------



## start90a

just measured MJ1 and GA:
MJ1 is 65,00 mm
GA is 65,01 mm


----------



## dubliftment

Hi folks, the SC63/w seems to have been price reduced from 85 to 79USD. Could this mean that there is something new in the pipeline?


----------



## snowlover91

dubliftment said:


> Hi folks, the SC63/w seems to have been price reduced from 85 to 79USD. Could this mean that there is something new in the pipeline?



Hmmm good catch. I doubt they would release something new so soon. I'm wondering if they lowered it since they dropped the price of the 62w a good bit.


----------



## StandardBattery

dubliftment said:


> Hi folks, the SC63/w seems to have been price reduced from 85 to 79USD. Could this mean that there is something new in the pipeline?





snowlover91 said:


> Hmmm good catch. I doubt they would release something new so soon. I'm wondering if they lowered it since they dropped the price of the 62w a good bit.


It could be just adjusting for lower costs, but I suspect that they may be looking at putting a new emitter in there and using more juice on High, otherwise there was little point in changing the design for the connection points other than to prefect the manufacturing of that system (which may have been the case ... but ...). Still the SC62w is the bargain if you're happy with the emitter. With the new API coming they can increase the range of output and still allow the light to be used effectively as an EDC light since the customer will have more control of setting it up for their usage.


----------



## fnsooner

The drop in price is unusual for ZebraLight. They must not be selling well, although the neutral version is out of stock. I bet this decision is consumer driven.


----------



## ieslei

But they droped the price on sc600 mk3 HI as well, it was 95 bucks as far as i recall... i guess the reason is consumer related.


----------



## fnsooner

ieslei said:


> But they droped the price on sc600 mk3 HI as well, it was 95 bucks as far as i recall... i guess the reason is consumer related.


Wow, I hadn’t noticed that the SC600 MKIII lights also dropped in price. So this means an across the board decrease in price on the new SC63 and SC600 MKIII series. Both with the new battery requirements. 

I can’t recall ZL doing something like this before. Smart choice by them to not completely discontinue sales of the previous models.


----------



## eraursls1984

fnsooner said:


> The drop in price is unusual for ZebraLight. They must not be selling well, although the neutral version is out of stock. I bet this decision is consumer driven.


They can't keep up with demand, I think they are selling just fine.


----------



## roger-roger

StandardBattery said:


> With the new API coming they can increase the range of output and still allow the light to be used effectively as an EDC light since the customer will have more control of setting it up for their usage.




Sounds like a MK IV is in the works.


----------



## tops2

Maybe they're trying to set the price difference between the Plus and the non-Plus versions further apart to make the Plus more "premium"?


----------



## 18650

If ZL can't source enough high CRI XHP35's for the high CRI version then maybe they should try sourcing the new Nichia 144AM I read about in the LED forum. I'd buy 3 SC63's if they came in the 5700K R9050 varieties.


----------



## recDNA

roger-roger said:


> Sounds like a MK IV is in the works.


I hope it takes protected batteries


----------



## recDNA

18650 said:


> If ZL can't source enough high CRI XHP35's for the high CRI version then maybe they should try sourcing the new Nichia 144AM I read about in the LED forum. I'd buy 3 SC63's if they came in the 5700K R9050 varieties.


I prefer the form of 63 to 600 especially with floody led. No reason for bigger reflector except more throw.


----------



## beliving

Hi, I just ordered the SC63w a few days ago. The ZebraLight website says it's on back order. Hopefully it won't be too long! I'm coming from an Olight S20 which I left stuck somewhere and is gone now (oh, the convenience of magnetic tailcap finally caught up with me!). I researched and found the ZebraLight might be an upgrade for me. Cycling through 4 brightness settings on the Olight was a minor inconvenience, but looks like ZebraLight has the solution. I can't wait to have an EDC light again.


----------



## eraursls1984

recDNA said:


> I prefer the form of 63 to 600 especially with floody led. No reason for bigger reflector except more throw.


Also the additional heat sinking properties. I prefer the 63 for EDC, but the 600 handles the heat much better on high. Good thing I rarely use high, and generally only for short bursts.


----------



## beliving

The back order 63w flashlight shipped 5 business days after placing my order. Now it's up to USPS to deliver...


----------



## beliving

The flashlight arrived a day earlier than expected! Here are some pics (sorry, I tried using the insert picture option, but couldn't get it to work):
https://goo.gl/photos/KY33rtqUGGxohdi97
https://goo.gl/photos/BWM5p5dC5uq5U3KE9
https://goo.gl/photos/ueyM3xvXHWLcB9rq6
https://goo.gl/photos/uNiDGGLBqnpdRrYL6
https://goo.gl/photos/7KqXwP8pBMAxYbV2A


----------



## markr6

nevermind...


----------



## ieslei

eraursls1984 said:


> Also the additional heat sinking properties. I prefer the 63 for EDC, but the 600 handles the heat much better on high. Good thing I rarely use high, and generally only for short bursts.


Same for me. It was hard to decide between the two but once the 63 arrived i didnt regret. The yellowish tint at first was odd but i noticed it is exact the same color as in the sunset here where i live(Brazil) and started to find it beautifull specially out in the woods. Some say the 63 is good for indoor activity but thats so relative. I was camping and i used it as a headlamp with my fenix headband. The flood was perfect to prepare the meal and the throw was perfect to light up the track. Used the M1 the whole night and many short bursts on H1. The day after the battery still flashed 4 times. Reading 3.9v.
The 63w took me to the most beautifull sunrise ive ever seen. 










Cheers


----------



## beliving

I have used a cooler (bluish) Olight flashlight in the past, and my new SC63w is definitely warmer. One thing I have noticed is that it appears fewer bugs (including mosquitoes) are attracted to my Zebralight. 

Something I missed about my old flashlight was the reversible clip. 90% of the time that I want to use the flashlight clip with the light on, I want the clip facing the other direction (clipped to ball cap bill or car visor, for example). When the flashlight is off, I don't really care which way the clip is facing. So, I bought the clip from Zebralight for the SC600. http://www.zebralight.com/Pocket-Clip-for-SC80-SC600_p_86.html I tightened the part that goes on the flashlight a little, but it works just fine. Now I can clip the light to my cap for hands-free use.


----------



## psychbeat

ieslei said:


> Same for me. It was hard to decide between the two but once the 63 arrived i didnt regret. The yellowish tint at first was odd but i noticed it is exact the same color as in the sunset here where i live(Brazil) and started to find it beautifull specially out in the woods. Some say the 63 is good for indoor activity but thats so relative. I was camping and i used it as a headlamp with my fenix headband. The flood was perfect to prepare the meal and the throw was perfect to light up the track. Used the M1 the whole night and many short bursts on H1. The day after the battery still flashed 4 times. Reading 3.9v.
> The 63w took me to the most beautifull sunrise ive ever seen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers



Nice pics!!
Thanks for sharing.


----------



## beliving

I read the specifications say the operating voltage is up to 6v, which seems a little high for a single 18650, so perhaps two batteries can power the light. Two CR123A batteries don't fit, but putting in one 3v CR123A and then a 3v CR2 would fit. However, the voltage would exceed 6 volts for two fresh batteries. Or perhaps do you think that would work? I have the appropriate batteries, but just in case, perhaps the combination of two batteries could be used in a pinch. I don't want to test it and fry something!


----------



## StandardBattery

beliving said:


> I read the specifications say the operating voltage is up to 6v, which seems a little high for a single 18650, so perhaps two batteries can power the light. Two CR123A batteries don't fit, but putting in one 3v CR123A and then a 3v CR2 would fit. However, the voltage would exceed 6 volts for two fresh batteries. Or perhaps do you think that would work? I have the appropriate batteries, but just in case, perhaps the combination of two batteries could be used in a pinch. I don't want to test it and fry something!


*NEVER mix battery types like this!!! *


----------



## Lumencrazy

beliving said:


> I read the specifications say the operating voltage is up to 6v, which seems a little high for a single 18650, so perhaps two batteries can power the light. Two CR123A batteries don't fit, but putting in one 3v CR123A and then a 3v CR2 would fit. However, the voltage would exceed 6 volts for two fresh batteries. Or perhaps do you think that would work? I have the appropriate batteries, but just in case, perhaps the combination of two batteries could be used in a pinch. I don't want to test it and fry something!




Zebralight designed the circuit to boost the voltage. Stay away from mixing batteries!!!!! You do not want to put in a 6 volt battery!


----------



## germed

great pics i also like a warmer tint outdoors more


----------



## 18650

I mentioned near the start that it'd be great to get MT-G2's in one of these. It might be a good substitute for the frosted XHP models they've released but then I looked at the pricing and the MT-G2 emitter costs a lot more than the XHP35 and XHP50 they use. Shame... I don't hear nearly as many complaints about tint on MT-G2 lights. It seems to be almost universal praise.


----------



## markr6

18650 said:


> I mentioned near the start that it'd be great to get MT-G2's in one of these. It might be a good substitute for the frosted XHP models they've released but then I looked at the pricing and the MT-G2 emitter costs a lot more than the XHP35 and XHP50 they use. Shame... I don't hear nearly as many complaints about tint on MT-G2 lights. It seems to be almost universal praise.



The MT-G2 on my Nitecore EC4SW is simply amazing. That emitter was used in a decent amount of lights, but should have been utilized more IMO. I begged Zebralight to make a 26650 light with the MT-G2; I think that would have been a great light. It's such a big LED, I'm not sure what the beam would be like in a small reflector like the SC63 or SC600.


----------



## 18650

markr6 said:


> The MT-G2 on my Nitecore EC4SW is simply amazing. That emitter was used in a decent amount of lights, but should have been utilized more IMO. I begged Zebralight to make a 26650 light with the MT-G2; I think that would have been a great light. It's such a big LED, I'm not sure what the beam would be like in a small reflector like the SC63 or SC600.



I was almost expecting it when I heard about their new 6V driver but sadly it never materialized. I bet it would be as floody as their frosted models but without the lumen hit. It could even take their place in the product lineup. I know it's not high CRI like the XHP's they're using but the regular CRI MT-G2 I have looks great. Gotta keep bugging them for it!


----------



## beliving

StandardBattery said:


> *NEVER mix battery types like this!!! *



Okay, let's say it was 2 CR2 batteries in a spacer? Do you think the voltage would be a problem?


----------



## Dan FO

Nice light.


----------



## Quantum`

What batteries are supposed to go in this?


----------



## eraursls1984

Quantum` said:


> What batteries are supposed to go in this?


An 18650 with a length no longer than about 69 mm.


----------



## Tachead

eraursls1984 said:


> An 18650 with a length no longer than about 69 mm.



Sorry, but I believe this is incorrect. This flashlight only takes unprotected cells 65.0-65.2mm in length with a voltage range of 3.6-4.35V. The most popular cells for it seam to be the Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh and the LG INR18650MJ1 3500mAh.


----------



## Connor

I think this might also be useful here: 







Zebralight SC600w II L2 - Manker MK34 (Nichia 219b) - Nitecore TIP CRI - Zebralight SC63w


All set to 10-20 lumens, camera manually set to 5800°K ([email protected])


----------



## dubliftment

snowlover91 said:


> Wth the SC62 being phased out I wonder what LED they will use for their high CRI version? Currently it is the SC62d with Luxeon but it only gets a little over 300 lumens. I see on Cree's site that the XHP35 comes in a min 80 and 90cri variant for both the neutral and cool white variant. Perhaps ZL will later release an SC63 with a 90+ CRI XHP35? If they push them to the max they could get approximately 800-900 lumens out of the 90+ CRI variant in neutral white. I would buy several SC63 with 90+ CRI and 800+ lumens. It would also allow them to use the same driver as used in the other SC63 lights without any changes, or minor ones in a worst case scenario. Thoughts?


 Exactly d'accord. They even could put the Easywhite LED and driver from the H600Fc/d into this light. I will write this into any ZL thread now: A High CRI SC63(F)c/d would be a real winner light!!!

Edit: I just read this quote from ZL which was quoted by snowlover Jan 1st this year: "SC63Fc and SC63Fd are planned, but won't be announced until we have enough production capacity ('c' and 'd' models are very time consuming production wise because we are 'cherry-picking' the LEDs)." 

*So there is still some hope that they will make a High CRI SC63, either with the Easywhite XML or the High CRI XHP35.*


----------



## dubliftment

Unfortunately ZL just confirmed to me that they won't make a High CRI SC63 unless Cree comes out with an XHP35 in 5000K/4000K, 90+CRI so they can go with a clear lens.


----------



## Tachead

dubliftment said:


> Unfortunately ZL just confirmed to me that they won't make a High CRI SC63 unless Cree comes out with an XHP35 in 5000K/4000K, 90+CRI so they can go with a clear lens.



It appears Cree does make the XHP35 in 90+ CRI in the Easywhite lineup but, they only offer it in 5 Step MacAdam Ellipse and not the preferred 3 Step.


----------



## Tachead

They make a 90+ CRI 2 Step 4000K XHP50 though. How about a light with that ZL? I wonder why they didn't use it in a "c" version of the Plus? I also wonder how bad the beam artifacts really are without the frosted lens on the XM-L2 and XHP50 Easywhite? And, what about with a clear lens and a heavily textured reflector?


----------



## dubliftment

Tachead said:


> It appears Cree does make the XHP35 in 90+ CRI in the Easywhite lineup but, they only offer it in 5 Step MacAdam Ellipse and not the preferred 3 Step.


 that's right, ZL mentioned the 3-step as a condition. they don't wanna be submerged in returns after releasing a new High CRI light.

@tachead: I was thinking of something else. If the XHP50 would sit in a smooth or almost smooth reflector, but behind a frosted lens, would there still beam artifacts? I imagine this would help for some throw at least and keep a satisfactory beam profile.


----------



## TCY

The Plus is equipped with a heavy OP reflector and the frosted lens to smooth out beam artifacts, so I guess you need both to get the job done. If ZL wants clear lens with their next high CRI light, would they do it with a possible high CRI variant of the XPL2?


----------



## dubliftment

XP-L2 LED was not among the LEDs they are not considering so if there is a High CRI variant, they certainly will have a look at it. I think it all depends on the size of the emitter, i.e. if it works without a frosted lens. This is what I read from their response. There will be no SC63 High CRI flashlight with frosted lens.


----------



## markr6

Today I decided to try and find where the blinks (voltage check) change. I think someone tried this, maybe on another ZL, but can't find it.

Anyway, here are a few random checks. The BOLD voltages are where I believe the change actually happen.

3.96 = 4
3.92 = 4
*3.90 = 3*
3.73 = 3
3.71 = 3
*3.70 = 2*
3.51 = 2 
3.44 = 1 (probably dropped to 1 blink at *3.50.* I wasn't paying attention and let it run too long)


----------



## geokite

Interesting 'blink' voltages. 0.3V range for 4, 0.2V range for 3 and 2, and 0.8V range for 1 (assuming a cutoff at 2.7V). For those more knowledgeable about the discharge curve of Li-ion batteries, is this proportional to the amount of watts left in the battery?

Steve


----------



## markr6

geokite said:


> Interesting 'blink' voltages. 0.3V range for 4, 0.2V range for 3 and 2, and 0.8V range for 1 (assuming a cutoff at 2.7V). For those more knowledgeable about the discharge curve of Li-ion batteries, is this proportional to the amount of watts left in the battery?
> 
> Steve



I would like to know more as well! It seems like a good estimation, but why don't they just use something like Nitecore? i.e. 3 blinks--pause--6 blinks = 3.6 volts. No guessing.


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## ven

sc63w on its way, tough call between this and the mkIII/HI..........The larger hot spot over the HI works a little better for my general use. I also like the design of this light, however the xhp50 hi cri flood will follow later(well flashaholics dont have it in stock or it would have been my 1st choice).


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## TCY

ven said:


> sc63w on its way, tough call between this and the mkIII/HI..........The larger hot spot over the HI works a little better for my general use. I also like the design of this light, however the xhp50 hi cri flood will follow later(well flashaholics dont have it in stock or it would have been my 1st choice).



Another zebra for ven! You won't regret it. My 3yr old SC62w is still kicking like a champ. The SC600Fd plus has been my daily EDC since I bought it, a nichia 219b might have a purer tint but man the beam from that high CRI XHP50 looks so natural.


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## ven

Good to hear thanks


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## ven

Arrived today from flashaholics(excellent customer service and a high recommend for anyone in the UK) , very small which i kind of expected. Very light to, beam wise no donut hole and a nice tint from the 4500k xhp35. On the lowest output, can just about make the + of the 4 dies staring into it. Bright.............oh yes, very bright. For some reason my ZL programming skills have took a step back from the sc5c mkII which was super easy. 6 lots of double clicks is only giving me 2 choices with double click..............Will have to spend a bit of time as it was only in the 1st 10m of getting. 
Tried to capture the +









I guess it shows how "bulky" the sc5c mkII is for an AA, some may see as a negative.........not for me, i love the size/form/feel of it(like a 16340 size light=perfect for me)
Next to the crazy D4 219c




Think 30Q will be running the sc63w............

Cheers!


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## Fireclaw18

Nice pictures there Ven.

The D4's anodizing looks better than the Zebralight in your pictures.


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## ven

Fireclaw18 said:


> Nice pictures there Ven.
> 
> The D4's anodizing looks better than the Zebralight in your pictures.



Thanks Fireclaw. The D4 certainly has ano above and beyond its asking piece , well pretty much everything about that light does! 
Maybe could have done with some knurling on the body to aid grip, nothing major for me though. 
I am also liking the ZL ano, it's nice to break up the sea of black lights


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## roger-roger

After deciding I didn't need my SC62w anymore, and with time seeing the folly in such thoughts, I've received an SC63w on Saturday.

As expected I'm pretty happy with it so far--the positive lead on the Sanyo NCR18650GA not showing any dents with light use. Almost seems the coil spring on the tail might have been lightened, but that's just a guess.


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