# Lumens Factory E-series bodies



## night.hoodie

Initially, I noticed on eBay last night some new product from Lumens Factory.

Dig this and this.

I was going to keep it to myself until I could afford to get some myself, but am assured by LF contact that there is plenty of stock.


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## Killer Kane

Any idea what the inside diameter of the tube is?

If it is 18mm 

if the lumen factory website listed it, I must have overlooked it.


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## night.hoodie

Killer Kane said:


> Any idea what the inside diameter of the tube is?



Yup, most will immediately have a pretty good idea. These bodies are identical, as in exactly and precisely the same, as the last made and sold Surefire E1e and E2e three-flats bodies, except they are without any labeling. Thus, they are not 18mm tubes, but designed for CR123A, though 16340 will fit, and sometimes AW 17670, certainly any 16650 in the E2e. 

Lots of members have bored their E1e/E2e for 18mm cells. I have an E2e bored for 18mm cells, and most cells fit, but although the fatter highest capacity 18mm cells fit, they squeeze in there too tight, no room for thermal expansion. A body interior with 18mm diameter is not what you want, because it probably would not fit 18mm cells; you need an inkling more than 18mm to fit 18mm cells, and more than that to allow for thermal expansion. There are boring services advertised elsewhere on this forum. Trouble is, boring often weakens the threads, risk increased of snapping them clean off with hard use, which is a great reason why Lumens Factory did not alter the design. 

These are direct duplicate replacements for E1e/E2e bodies. By the account I got, LF worked very hard to get these right, a lot of trial and error, and have binned more than one run of them because they did not meet the high standards they were after. Apparently, these do meet or exceed their high standards.

If you want to use 18mm cells with E-series, you can bore, or try Fivemega ehet, and/or Fivemega TS E Body and/or Fivemega 18650 & 2x18500 E Body


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## Killer Kane

Thanks.

Just checking, I figured as much. 

I may get the five mega body. I need a home for some 18mm cells but small footprint.


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## recDNA

night.hoodie said:


> Initially, I noticed on eBay last night some new product from Lumens Factory.
> 
> Dig this and this.
> 
> I was going to keep it to myself until I could afford to get some myself, but am assured by LF contact that there is plenty of stock.


Too bad they don't make a matching head with a choice of incandescent or XP-G2 Or Nichia 219C. I suppose an XP-L would work with 16340? Anyway nice body and really nice tail but no head. Love to be able to build my iwn E1e.

Malkoff MDC head should work but it's too expensive for me. This thing would be a toy.


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## ElectronGuru

The basic size issue is E are head load. So even from scratch, bigger cell = thinner threads. I’m working on a body but it will be tail load so threads are stronger. But it will mean that head and tail are about the same size.


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## night.hoodie

recDNA said:


> Too bad they don't make a matching head with a choice of incandescent or XP-G2 Or Nichia 219C. I suppose an XP-L would work with 16340?



Lumens Factory sells E-compatible single LED heads. There are modders that can swap in any PowerLED you want. I'm not sure how one would make a head with reflector that accepts incandescent lamps and also has a driver and LED for user choice, except to simply produce a head for incandescent use, and if the user wishes, use an LED tower to replace the lamp, that are made and sold by LF, as well as CPF member Tana.

But I have it on good authority that in a few months (with luck and Godspeed to LF) we'll indeed see LF heads for incandescent use that are E-compatible. I hope, like these bodies, the heads are more or less copies of the Elite head, and copies from the era before the superfluous and silly crenellations appeared. Let a flashlight be a flashlight, and nothing else, not a knife, not a weapon, not a bottle opener, just a portable lighting utility.

If reverse engineering the tails, switches and bodies was tough, it only emphasizes how tough it will be to develop and engineer, manufacture in quality in and quantity a replacement for an Elite head. These compound pieces are only deceptively simple. Probably others at CPF know, but I can't imagine how something as common in the industry now as the orange peel reflector is produced. SF did their R&D and LF will need to do no less R&D to match it. 

I'm just happy most of SF design is unpatentable, all those patent numbers on their host bodies notwithstanding. I would not really care if SF was continuing to manufacture and sell incan e-series, that would have satisfied me, but IMO, SF was _late_ to the LED arena, and ended production of most of their incandescent options, which are still unmatched and the best in the industry, too soon and for no great reason, while fumbling the LED and playing catch-up for years. 2017/2018 SF is finally catching up to the rest of the industry in LED, yet still no attention given to spectrum and color rendition. Again, IMO, SF more or less replaced most of their incan options with inferior LED options, inferior to their own incan designs, and inferior to most other industry in LED design, and we gained... runtime. Not a fair trade. Yet SF's durability is still there, and that is no small feat.



ElectronGuru said:


> The basic size issue is E are head load. So even from scratch, bigger cell = thinner threads. Im working on a body but it will be tail load so threads are stronger. But it will mean that head and tail are about the same size.



Awesome, love to hear that those with the skill are driven to produce such things. Leaf made some hosts like that, but hard to find now, and there is available Fivemega E Head C tail bodies.



--
Hey, CPF, I am deeply sorry for the longwindedness of many of my posts. The best posts are short and sweet here. I assure it is not that I am some out of control narcissist, but instead I think it is that I was dropped on my head quite a bit when I young and first learned English, down many flights of stairs, almost daily, until my perception of the 3D world finally developed quite late. Happy to be on your ignore list, I completely understand.


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## recDNA

Are those heads available in black?


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## bykfixer

Way to go Lumens Factory. Best regards for these. 
I like the 'tear drop' style head they sell but avoided buying one. Now that black E type bodies can be had that will change sometime in 018. 

If they ever decide to do two way clips I'd buy several.


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## night.hoodie

recDNA said:


> Are those heads available in black?



Wouldn't it be a crime if they were not?
Go to LF's online shop, and browse.


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## ven

The heads are available in black, in the selection box you get the choice of HA and black ,in white and warm flavours. I do like the look and very tempted, trouble is i can find an E2e for around the same total cost(head/body/tail).


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## recDNA

For $58 the turbo head should have heat step down and low voltage protection. I'd settle for one or the other but both would be nice.

For the price of a complete setup I think you could buy an MDC which might be preferable. Maybe they will put it all together like Malkoff did and sell it for a little less.


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## night.hoodie

ven said:


> The heads are available in black, in the selection box you get the choice of HA and black ,in white and warm flavours. I do like the look and very tempted, trouble is i can find an E2e for around the same total cost(head/body/tail).



What I have observed about Surefire hardware prices is that, except for the very special and rare collectable pieces whose resale values doubled, the hardware maintains is original price and value, effectively keeping the price that it was when NIB and still sold by the manufacturer. 

These things are not fine art. The auction values are stable. An E2e costs what it costs. If you score a complete light for $50, that is a boon. But you can expect to pay more and close to original price if you don't have the patience to wait for that auction that everyone missed but you and you had no competition.

My point is, an E2e body is what it is, has the value that it has, and IMO that is likely based on labor, setup and manufacturing cost more than materials. If you are using these things and not keeping them in pristine condition in a safe, there is no difference between LF's copy and SF original, they have the same value because they are basically identical. 

All things considered, people will pay more for a brand label product than for an identical generic. But the true value of these utilities must be identical, if you're not, you know, insane, and actually believe a pair of $300 Air Jordons is somehow better than an otherwise identical but unbranded copy for $35.

No one really can explain, for example, why the black versions of SF stuff commands far more resale value and desirability. You can't see the color of the anno in the dark, when you're using the flashlight. The color of the anno could not possibly affect the utility of the light, for nearly all intents and purposes. Yet the black seems to always sell anywhere from $30 - $100 more than the natural.

Conclusion: face it, we are insane. We want what we want. We want a serial number that includes our favorite lucky number, and we will overpay to get it. Insane.


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## Timothybil

night.hoodie said:


> All things considered, people will pay more for a brand label product than for an identical generic. But the true value of these utilities must be identical, if you're not, you know, insane, and actually believe a pair of $300 Air Jordons is somehow better than an otherwise identical but unbranded copy for $35.


The classic example for me are the Beats headphones and earbuds. If one reads some reviews, the performance is only mediocre but everyone things the name makes it better. I will take my JLab earbuds for $30 over Beats any day of the week, especially if you are listening to music on your phone.


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## Timothybil

Went back to LF's web page and looked at the 'E' offerings. Besides the afore mentioned E LED heads, they offer an E head only in black or natural. I am going to assume that it is an incan head, since all of the LED heads are fixed and one must select on option to order. That tells me that this head is designed for all of the E incan bulbs that LF sells. A quick email would tell you for sure if I am right or not.


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## [email protected]

Thanks for everyone's support.
We just released these bodies over the weekend and I hope they will meet the high standards of CPFers.



Timothybil said:


> Went back to LF's web page and looked at the 'E' offerings. Besides the afore mentioned E LED heads, they offer an E head only in black or natural. I am going to assume that it is an incan head, since all of the LED heads are fixed and one must select on option to order. That tells me that this head is designed for all of the E incan bulbs that LF sells. A quick email would tell you for sure if I am right or not.



Hi Timothy.
Those "E (Head Only)" on our site are for our LED modules, we offer them separately in case customers need them for projects or replacements.
We are working hard on an incandescent head replacement for the E Series, it is actually the most difficult part of the entire light.
But we are not giving up on incandescent support, hopefully prototypes and test productions will go smoothly and we can bring something out in a few months.


Cheers,

Mark


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## Timothybil

Thanks for the update. Glad to see you on here again. I tell people you monitor CPF, now they'll believe me. :thumbsup:


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## [email protected]

Haha, Timothy.
Well, I do come on every now and then. :twothumbs


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## vadimax

Dear [email protected],

I cannot understand IMR battery warning coming with E series 3-3.7V heads. At the same time it lists AW17650 as an option (4.2V max). I don’t get the point 

P.S.: OK, I have read the chapter about fake AW IMR cells. But the question is still up: are these heads safe with max Li-Ion voltage of 4.2V?


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## LiftdT4R

night.hoodie said:


> But I have it on good authority that in a few months (with luck and Godspeed to LF) we'll indeed see LF heads for incandescent use that are E-compatible. I hope, like these bodies, the heads are more or less copies of the Elite head, and copies from the era before the superfluous and silly crenellations appeared. Let a flashlight be a flashlight, and nothing else, not a knife, not a weapon, not a bottle opener, just a portable lighting utility.



Man, I sure hope they do, I would be in for a few! I would have bought these E bodies had I not picked up a couple modded ones a couple weeks ago. The E series stuff is awesome and there is very little in the way of parts for them.


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## elzilcho

Does anyone know if these will be available from US-based dealers at some point? PayPal wouldn't cooperate when I tried to buy one straight from LF, I assume it's because they're offshore.


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## ma tumba

[email protected] said:


> Thanks for everyone's support.
> We just released these bodies over the weekend and I hope they will meet the high standards of CPFers.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Timothy.
> Those "E (Head Only)" on our site are for our LED modules, we offer them separately in case customers need them for projects or replacements.
> We are working hard on an incandescent head replacement for the E Series, it is actually the most difficult part of the entire light.
> But we are not giving up on incandescent support, hopefully prototypes and test productions will go smoothly and we can bring something out in a few months.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



Hey Mark,

I think that you may want to consider making two-way clips for e1/e2 lights. These are always in demand!


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## night.hoodie

ma tumba said:


> Hey Mark,
> 
> I think that you may want to consider making two-way clips for e1/e2 lights. These are always in demand!



Surely you meant E1e/E2e reversible clips? To my limited knowledge, there has never been a reversible clip for the E1/E2; clips for those models are rivited to the teardrop head-reflector, and many are not removeable without permanetly altering the head. I have seen reversible clips for various models compatible with the Executive Elite series, not sure if these were on E1L and E2L, or Outdoorsman, but definitely on the new E-series compatible Aviator.


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## ma tumba

Yes, the clips for e1e/e2e for sure. The problem with these clips and the ones for other sf lights is that they are not available for sale. And it is next to impossible to get replacement if you are overseas


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## bykfixer

Often times 2 way clips are called reversible, same as calling a hot water tank a hot water heater....

Tomatoe/Tomahtoe.... in the end I feel confident Mark knows what we mean.
The E clip that allows bezel up or down carry.


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## Roger Sully

[email protected] said:


> Haha, Timothy.
> Well, I do come on every now and then. :twothumbs



Hey there!!

I haven't seen you in a while for sure! Things ar epicking up in 2018 so I hope to be getting things going again with you soon!


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## night.hoodie

ma tumba said:


> Yes, the clips for e1e/e2e for sure. The problem with these clips and the ones for other sf lights is that they are not available for sale. And it is next to impossible to get replacement if you are overseas



That is all true. The reversible clips for E1e and the one for E2e almost require acquiring a near identical light that has come stock with the 2-way clip, and using it for parts, which makes us cry. Lumens Factory should be encouraged to provide such clips for separate purchase if Surefire will not, for the reasons you state. I wanted to make sure LF didn't instead design a 2-way clip for the E1/E2 if it wasn' going to help you or any other non-E1/E2 owner, such as myself. The clips we need are a 2-way clip for E1e, like that on the new Aviator, and for the E2e, like Surefire put stock on some other E-series compatible 2-cell light that I can't name for sure (E2L?).




bykfixer said:


> Often times 2 way clips are called reversible, same as calling a hot water tank a hot water heater....
> 
> Tomatoe/Tomahtoe.... in the end I feel confident Mark knows what we mean.
> The E clip that allows bezel up or down carry.



I am pedantic, often, but I like accuracy, and now you have misunderstood me, bykfixer, while ma tumba knew exactly what I meant, which is that an E1 is not an E1e, an E2 is not an E2e, and while a 2-way or reversible clip would surely be welcome for the few E1 or E2 owners that have a removeable hex screw holding the stock clip to the head rather than a rivet, neither Surefire nor anyone else has ever made a reversible clip that works 2-ways for those early E-series E1/E2 lights. I believe there is a pocket clip that works head down for all Surefire E-series that slips around the tail threads, held on by the tailcap, but it isn't reversible. Some have fixed a head down pocket clip to a z68 with screws, which should fit on an E1/E2, but again, not reversible. Anyway, no one says "tomahtoe." That is a fact.

You guys like pedantry, right? I am an amatuer pedantrist, but some day I'd like to go pro.


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## bykfixer

What?


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## night.hoodie

bykfixer said:


> What?









http://www.geocities.ws/da_shwartz/e1eg.jpg

http://img-cdn.redwolfairsoft.com/upload/product/img/AVIATOR-AM-1L.jpg

https://cdn.outdoorhub.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2013/08/SureFire-E1L-and-E2L.jpg

edit: sorry, unhosted images.
edit2: that E1 image is hosted, so... dig the E1 and this one has a clip that is removable without permanent alteration of the head.


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## bykfixer

Right, these kind... 

I know, but those big fancy words were so....
Eh, never mind...

And my pop (rip) used to say tomahtoe....


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## night.hoodie

Are those yours???!??! That E1 tho... no teardrops but mine :'(




bykfixer said:


> but those big fancy words were so....





night.hoodie said:


> Hey, CPF, I am deeply sorry for the longwindedness of many of my posts. …was dropped on my head quite a bit….


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## bykfixer

The E1 is a crosshair logo. The E2 a tear drop. 

Yup, mine all mine. lol

Both have Lumens Factory bulbs in them.


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## Tachead

Yes please LF, we need 2 way clips like on the E1B MV, E1D, EDCL1-T, Aviator, etc.

And, a P60 head for these new bodies like the Malkoff VME would be sweet too. 

Also, a high/low tailcap like the Elzetta one but, for these new "E" bodies would be awesome as well.


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## JohnSmith

+1 on those 2-way clips. There’s no other source. Price them correctly and people will order multiples to stockpile in their “just-in-case” parts box.


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## night.hoodie

bykfixer said:


> The E1 is a crosshair logo. The E2 a tear drop.
> 
> Yup, mine all mine. lol
> 
> Both have Lumens Factory bulbs in them.



That E1 is one of the nicest, in the nicest condition, I have ever seen (only seen on Internet, never IRL). Now please put the crosshairs back in the safe before I cause a blemish on it by staring too long at your picture.




Tachead said:


> Yes please LF, we need 2 way clips like on the E1B MV, E1D, EDCL1-T, Aviator, etc.
> 
> And, a P60 head for these new bodies like the Malkoff VME would be sweet too.
> 
> Also, a high/low tailcap like the Elzetta one but, for these new "E" bodies would be awesome as well.



Everything you said. Pretty sure LF sells E to C adapters, but... why not a thread-compatible P60 head for E-series?

LF, please consider a two-stage momentary/twisty switch in z52, which Surefire never had available for E-series until the recent EDCL-1/2 tailswitch, but only on incan A2 Aviator and some L-series. Though not what Surefire used (nor I expect what they are now using), McGizmo developed the McE2S for his Aleph tailcaps, thread compatible with E-series, but also gave it away to the world, and a few lucky ones have this in one of its forms in a Surefire z52. There are a lot of threads at CPF discussing the McE2S, including the development thread from 2005 (can't seem to find right now or I'd link to it).

But do us one better, Lumens Factory, and develop a two-stage hi/lo momentary/twisty for incan, which has never existed and several from these forums have said it is impossible, but I will never believe that. There is nothing unethical about underdriving a lamp, but how can it be done with a 2-stage tailcap in a way to increase runtime with a lower lamp-"mode" and not catch on fire? If you develop it... we will deplete your stocks.


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## vadimax

Adding of these E bodies was a wise move  I have ordered a head+body+tail cap already. And I guess I will be not the only one.


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## [email protected]

vadimax said:


> Dear [email protected],
> 
> I cannot understand IMR battery warning coming with E series 3-3.7V heads. At the same time it lists AW17650 as an option (4.2V max). I don’t get the point
> 
> P.S.: OK, I have read the chapter about fake AW IMR cells. But the question is still up: are these heads safe with max Li-Ion voltage of 4.2V?




The 3-3.7V (in fact all 3-3.7V LED products we have) are safe with single Li-Ion with max voltage of 4.2.
The design voltage of the circuit is 2.5V-4.5V, so it is for 1 cell setups (1 x CR123A and 1 x 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargebles)
We named it 3-3.7V according to what the battery are rated.
Sorry for the confusions. 


Cheers

Mark


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## [email protected]

elzilcho said:


> Does anyone know if these will be available from US-based dealers at some point? PayPal wouldn't cooperate when I tried to buy one straight from LF, I assume it's because they're offshore.



You can try the Lumens Factory eBay store, should work out since it'll be through eBay US.
Not gonna post a link here in case it violates the policy on CPF.

Cheers.

Mark


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## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Hey Mark,
> 
> I think that you may want to consider making two-way clips for e1/e2 lights. These are always in demand!



If you want to know the truth, I hate them. LOL
I like the good old 1 sided clips, I think they look the best.
But you got a point about people wanting them, I'll see what I can do.

Clips are the most difficult and costly part of the entire light, these need to be stamped which is very expensive and not viable to be made in small amounts.
That damn QPQ blackening is a PITA to get right and also a very expensive process.

Anyways, I'll look into it.


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## [email protected]

Roger Sully said:


> Hey there!!
> 
> I haven't seen you in a while for sure! Things ar epicking up in 2018 so I hope to be getting things going again with you soon!



Indeed, been real busy with all the stuff and I got married finally on September 
So it has been a crazy 2017 for me, be back in the office over time now to get the projects done.

Cheers.


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## [email protected]

bykfixer said:


> Right, these kind...
> 
> I know, but those big fancy words were so....
> Eh, never mind...
> 
> And my pop (rip) used to say tomahtoe....



I have a couple of these early versions and I like them a lot.
Wait, is that a smooth no teardrop head on the crosshair Surefire E1?
Damn nice, man. Damn nice. :twothumbs


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## [email protected]

night.hoodie said:


> That E1 is one of the nicest, in the nicest condition, I have ever seen (only seen on Internet, never IRL). Now please put the crosshairs back in the safe before I cause a blemish on it by staring too long at your picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything you said. Pretty sure LF sells E to C adapters, but... why not a thread-compatible P60 head for E-series?
> 
> LF, please consider a two-stage momentary/twisty switch in z52, which Surefire never had available for E-series until the recent EDCL-1/2 tailswitch, but only on incan A2 Aviator and some L-series. Though not what Surefire used (nor I expect what they are now using), McGizmo developed the McE2S for his Aleph tailcaps, thread compatible with E-series, but also gave it away to the world, and a few lucky ones have this in one of its forms in a Surefire z52. There are a lot of threads at CPF discussing the McE2S, including the development thread from 2005 (can't seem to find right now or I'd link to it).
> 
> But do us one better, Lumens Factory, and develop a two-stage hi/lo momentary/twisty for incan, which has never existed and several from these forums have said it is impossible, but I will never believe that. There is nothing unethical about underdriving a lamp, but how can it be done with a 2-stage tailcap in a way to increase runtime with a lower lamp-"mode" and not catch on fire? If you develop it... we will deplete your stocks.



In all honesty, switches are gonna be hard.
They are not our specialty and it is quite difficult to design a good switch.
So I am going to let you down on this as it does exceed our ability.

Thread compatible P60 head is possible though, that is well within our realm.


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## [email protected]

vadimax said:


> Adding of these E bodies was a wise move  I have ordered a head+body+tail cap already. And I guess I will be not the only one.



Thank you for your order and support.
To tell you the truth, these should have been out 2 years ago if everything we smooth.

I scrapped 3 complete lots (over 700 lights) because I wasn't happy with them.
Finally got something I think is good enough for us to launch after all this time.
Learned a lot of things on the way though, so it is worth it.
Will be using the experience and knowledge gained on future projects to bring better items out for you guys.

Thanks again for the support.


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## vestureofblood

[email protected] said:


> Thanks for everyone's support.
> We just released these bodies over the weekend and I hope they will meet the high standards of CPFers.
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark




Nice move!! Thanks for doing this Mark. 


I remember when Lumens Factory was one of about 5 stores in the world where a flashaholic could go to get anything useful. Lumensfactory, Lighthound, Sandwichshoppe etc. I'm glad to see you guys are still keeping with the old school alive; especially glad I can still get the incan bulbs. 

Will these be available in natural as well?


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## Jose Marin

ElectronGuru said:


> The basic size issue is E are head load. So even from scratch, bigger cell = thinner threads. I’m working on a body but it will be tail load so threads are stronger. But it will mean that head and tail are about the same size.



Do do you think using stainless steel for your material would improve the strength of the thin front load threads?


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## [email protected]

vestureofblood said:


> Nice move!! Thanks for doing this Mark.
> 
> 
> I remember when Lumens Factory was one of about 5 stores in the world where a flashaholic could go to get anything useful. Lumensfactory, Lighthound, Sandwichshoppe etc. I'm glad to see you guys are still keeping with the old school alive; especially glad I can still get the incan bulbs.
> 
> Will these be available in natural as well?



Yes, my friend.
Those were the days. A real shame Lighthound is gone now, they were real nice guys.
Gotta love the old school vintages, incans are our roots and we will keep them in our lineup as long as possible.

Well, the HA3 Naturals....
They were SUPPOSED to be released at the same time as the HA3 Black ones you see on sale now.
But then the shade Fu**ed up AGAIN, so I have to scrap them once again.
HA3 Naturals are real tough to get right and I need them to match the head and tailcap so I MUST anodize them all in one go.
If they come out bad, then everything must be done all over again.
The problem is that I can get the samples real nice and even match the later production darker shade E and M and C bodies I got.
Then in production, it will always come out lighter or darker then I want it to be.
So I am going have to monitor the entire process in house to do whatever I can to ensure it comes out at least acceptable.
This is probably why you don't see many mass production lights in HA3 Naturals anymore, it is a PITA to make.

They will be out soon though, I am not going to give up on it.
I love HA3 Naturals just like most of the old school guys and if it takes me 5 more tries then so be it. (hopefully not tho, LOL)


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## [email protected]

Jose Marin said:


> Do do you think using stainless steel for your material would improve the strength of the thin front load threads?



Hmm, Jose. 
The original quote was from ElectronGuru and not me, LOL.

Well, it would improve the strength, but then the entire light body would be stainless steel.
If the user is not looking to bore the light to fit 18xxx, I think the original thickness of the threads are pretty okay.
If I am going to use a different material to make the body, it would be titanium and not stainless steel.


Cheers.

Mark


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## Jose Marin

I meant the whole purpose of making out of stainless would be for 18mm cell front load so we can keep the compactness of the original body and tail with the added strength to the thin head threads by using steel instead.


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## Crazyeddiethefirst

Hey Mark,
Congrats on bringing these to Market, they are awesome. Thank you also for demanding high quality and doing Quality Control-I can only imagine the cost of having to trash so many runs of product that did not meet the Lumens Factory Standard. My Seraph's(6,9 & 6 Ti) and Angel are still going strong and looking as good as they did coming out of the box...


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## night.hoodie

Jose Marin said:


> Do do you think using stainless steel for your material would improve the strength of the thin front load threads?





Jose Marin said:


> I meant the whole purpose of making out of stainless would be for 18mm cell front load so we can keep the compactness of the original body and tail with the added strength to the thin head threads by using steel instead.



Everyone seems to have their favorite material, but Aluminum actually is ideal once a flashlight gets larger than a AAA/10440 or a 10180 light (which can use any material because they are small, and material mass and weight is an advantage in a light that small). Aluminum is ideal at the size of CR123A or even AA, due to its lightness and especially its heat properties, both superior to stainless, and it is strong enough as it is without modification for U.S. military and law enforcement. Also, Al is more affordable than stainless, both in the material itself, and the tooling of it will require less replacement and refit for the wear of milling it causes. This cannot be overlooked. Tough Titanium is chosen at times, for its strength and low weight, even though its heat properties are worse than stainless, and it is very expensive. I think maybe it is mostly its strength and its bling that it is seen in premium and collectable lights like McGizmo (E-series thead compatible!) and Sinner.

You should consider that things are what they are, and instead of trying to force a duck to be a goose, take a look at what Fivemega has for sale: bimetal, and another in all stainless. 

But the ones who know keep coming back to Executive Elite, and LF corrects the pain of the rigidity of Surefire's strict business plan, never offering the parts we want for sale separately. You just have to see how great this is that these LF bodies are now painlessly readily available. So by all means, if you want to bore for 18mm cells, there are services, knock yourself out, because if you do have problems with weak threads, now you can replace the body effortlessly without the anxiety of not knowing if you can find a used one on eBay to modify. But I see wisdom in LF's decision to keep the design the same, as it is a direct replacement, and those who have put it through the tough duty know it works. Change a product that works even a little to appease the fringe and you are taking a gamble.



[email protected] said:


> HA3 Naturals are real tough to get right and I need them to match the head and tailcap so I MUST anodize them all in one go.
> If they come out bad, then everything must be done all over again.
> The problem is that I can get the samples real nice and even match the later production darker shade E and M and C bodies I got.
> Then in production, it will always come out lighter or darker then I want it to be.
> So I am going have to monitor the entire process in house to do whatever I can to ensure it comes out at least acceptable.
> This is probably why you don't see many mass production lights in HA3 Naturals anymore, it is a PITA to make.



I'm not sure I have seen any Surefire flashlights in HAIII Natural that have a bezel that matches the head, or matching body or tail. Sometimes the tail matches the head, bezel matches the body, a little, but never seen one as you describe that meets your high standards. Certainly I have never seen any that match another identical light either. So please don't beat yourself up, and don't go bankrupt trying to achieve the impossible! HAIII Natural hardware is expected to mismatch.

Also, congratulations on _your_ matching! Here's to a long and happy marriage!


----------



## Tachead

night.hoodie said:


> I'm not sure I have seen any Surefire flashlights in HAIII Natural that have a bezel that matches the head, or matching body or tail. Sometimes the tail matches the head, bezel matches the body, a little, but never seen one as you describe that meets your high standards. Certainly I have never seen any that match another identical light either. So please don't beat yourself up, and don't go bankrupt trying to achieve the impossible! HAIII Natural hardware is expected to mismatch.



That is just because SF is being lazy and careless. It is pretty easy to have all parts match with Natural(Class 1) HAIII. You just have to run all the seperate parts together in the same batch/run and then keep them together. Each batch will likely come out slightly different but as long as you don't mix up parts from different batches you will always get a uniform light from bezel to tail. Zebralight has no problem achieving this for instance and they use exclusively Type III Class 1 HA.


----------



## night.hoodie

Tachead said:


> That is just because SF is lazy and careless. It is pretty easy to have all parts match with Natural(Class 1) HAIII. You just have to run all the seperate parts together in the same batch/run and then keep them together. Each batch will likely come out slightly different but as long as you don't mix up parts from different batches you will always get a uniform light from bezel to tail. Zebralight has no problem achieving this for instance and they use exclusively Type III Class 1 HA.



Well, certainly you make a fair point. But difficulty increases cost. As Mark has explained, he is scrapping batches to get it right, and that shows dedication, but it can't be cheap. There is a concept in business known as _marginal rate of return._ Basically it dictates that at some point, you have to pay _a lot more money_ to get a marginal rise in value. What is the value of what you can't actually see when you are using it for its intended purpose and utility? I'm not saying I want ugly flashlights, but I will say I think Surefire's mismatched HAIII Natural anno has its charm, as each light effectively becomes one of a kind.


----------



## bykfixer

I applaud Mr Mark for striving for better. But that is nothing new to the Lumens Factory. And trying to get several dozen parts n pieces to a natural finish that all look alike is about as easy as getting a bunch of chocolate chip cookies to look the same. 


I have a few natural HA type 3 lights that match very well end to end. Both SureFire and Vital Gear. 
My olive drab E2E on the other hand....


----------



## Tachead

night.hoodie said:


> Well, certainly you make a fair point. But difficulty increases cost. As Mark has explained, he is scrapping batches to get it right, and that shows dedication, but it can't be cheap. There is a concept in business known as marginal rate of return. Basically it dictates that at some point, you have to pay _a lot more money_ to get a marginal rise in value. What is the value of what you can't actually see when you are using it for its intended purpose and utility? I'm not saying I want ugly flashlights, but I will say I think Surefire's mismatched HAIII Natural anno has its charm, as each light effectively becomes one of a kind.



Yeah, I am just talking about consistency from head to tail. 

I am guessing that Mark is trying to get a colour close to Surefire's colour and that is what is difficult. Minor differences in the process, alloy, etc. can all drastically change the colour of Class 1 anodizing where as it is much easier to get what you want when you are adding dye(Class 2).

Another issue is that he is selling parts. Without selling matched sets from the same anodizing batch/run it is very hard to achieve consistency with Class 1.


----------



## night.hoodie

bykfixer said:


> I have 5 E2E's and 4 of the 5 match end to end. The only one that doesn't is an olive drab 4 flats that the bezel is lighter.
> 
> All 3 of my A2's match end to end as well.



Where is your compassion, man? You like to rub salt in wounds, too? I'll take your word for it, but also consider we're all going blind and losing the ability to distinguish close shades, just by being members of this forum.


----------



## bykfixer

night.hoodie said:


> Where is your compassion, man? You like to rub salt in wounds, too? I'll take your word for it, but also consider we're all going blind and losing the ability to distinguish close shades, just by being members of this forum.



I edited my previous because I just mailed out an E2E to a fellow across the big pond....

Now regarding losing sight.... I'm an incan fan for life.
All those new fangled LED's got people blinded.


----------



## night.hoodie

bykfixer said:


> Now regarding losing sight.... I'm an incan fan for life.
> All those new fangled LED's got people blinded.



+1 :thumbsup:


----------



## [email protected]

Crazyeddiethefirst said:


> Hey Mark,
> Congrats on bringing these to Market, they are awesome. Thank you also for demanding high quality and doing Quality Control-I can only imagine the cost of having to trash so many runs of product that did not meet the Lumens Factory Standard. My Seraph's(6,9 & 6 Ti) and Angel are still going strong and looking as good as they did coming out of the box...



Thank you for your continued support.
I try to all the Quality Control myself so I know what's up and can improve the products if needed.
I designed the Seraph myself and took me 2 years to release it as well.
Really happy to know you liked the design. 

Thanks again.


----------



## vadimax

[email protected] said:


> Thank you for your continued support.
> I try to all the Quality Control myself so I know what's up and can improve the products if needed.
> I designed the Seraph myself and took me 2 years to release it as well.
> Really happy to know you liked the design.
> 
> Thanks again.



One question: once upon a time there were titanium versions of Seraph. Are they gone forever?


----------



## [email protected]

night.hoodie said:


> Everyone seems to have their favorite material, but Aluminum actually is ideal once a flashlight gets larger than a AAA/10440 or a 10180 light (which can use any material because they are small, and material mass and weight is an advantage in a light that small). Aluminum is ideal at the size of CR123A or even AA, due to its lightness and especially its heat properties, both superior to stainless, and it is strong enough as it is without modification for U.S. military and law enforcement. Also, Al is more affordable than stainless, both in the material itself, and the tooling of it will require less replacement and refit for the wear of milling it causes. This cannot be overlooked. Tough Titanium is chosen at times, for its strength and low weight, even though its heat properties are worse than stainless, and it is very expensive. I think maybe it is mostly its strength and its bling that it is seen in premium and collectable lights like McGizmo (E-series thead compatible!) and Sinner.
> 
> You should consider that things are what they are, and instead of trying to force a duck to be a goose, take a look at what Fivemega has for sale: bimetal, and another in all stainless.
> 
> But the ones who know keep coming back to Executive Elite, and LF corrects the pain of the rigidity of Surefire's strict business plan, never offering the parts we want for sale separately. You just have to see how great this is that these LF bodies are now painlessly readily available. So by all means, if you want to bore for 18mm cells, there are services, knock yourself out, because if you do have problems with weak threads, now you can replace the body effortlessly without the anxiety of not knowing if you can find a used one on eBay to modify. But I see wisdom in LF's decision to keep the design the same, as it is a direct replacement, and those who have put it through the tough duty know it works. Change a product that works even a little to appease the fringe and you are taking a gamble.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure I have seen any Surefire flashlights in HAIII Natural that have a bezel that matches the head, or matching body or tail. Sometimes the tail matches the head, bezel matches the body, a little, but never seen one as you describe that meets your high standards. Certainly I have never seen any that match another identical light either. So please don't beat yourself up, and don't go bankrupt trying to achieve the impossible! HAIII Natural hardware is expected to mismatch.
> 
> Also, congratulations on _your_ matching! Here's to a long and happy marriage!




I understand Jose and other customers that want the ability to use 18650 on the E Bodies.
But a lot of the design must be revised to make the head threads stronger.
If I want to keep the design true, then the only way is to change to a stronger material.
I think that is what Jose is asking me, would I use Stainless Steel or a stronger material to make E bodies that can accept 18650 batteries but have an head thread with acceptable strength.

And I can't explain it better then you night.hoodie.
Fivemega's bodies are quite nice and they are designed from the ground up to be able to use 18650s.
His design aims to solve the weaknesses of a bored E body.
I think would be great if you are looking for a 18650 able E body.

About the HAIII,

Well, it is quite difficult to get the shade I really want.
Heck, it is not even easy to get them to have RELATIVELY the same shade even when they are anodized at the same time.
I will explain on the other reply.

I am not going to endlessly pursuit something that might very well be impossible and probably bankrupt myself trying, LOL.
The problem is for the previous runs, I was not there for the entire process.
I was there at the sample production and they come out fine every time.
Then comes the production and they all flopped.
The guys at the anodizing factory told me it was done the same way, but somehow it came out different.
So this time I am going over to their factory and monitor every minute of the process until it is done.
It will take me a couple days, but I must find out what is the problem. 
If there is really nothing I can do, then I will accept the fact. 
But I am not going to give up until I am there myself on the entire process.


Thank you, night.hoodie. My wife treats me like a king and I am really that I met her.


----------



## [email protected]

Tachead said:


> Yeah, I am just talking about consistency from head to tail.
> 
> I am guessing that Mark is trying to get a colour close to Surefire's colour and that is what is difficult. Minor differences in the process, alloy, etc. can all drastically change the colour of Class 1 anodizing where as it is much easier to get what you want when you are adding dye(Class 2).
> 
> Another issue is that he is selling parts. Without selling matched sets from the same anodizing batch/run it is very hard to achieve consistency with Class 1.



Yes, I am trying to get the parts to have the shade in the range of the "Rounded Flat" or 3rd Generation E Lights.
You are right on point about it being very difficult to achieve consistency as I am not selling matching sets.


----------



## [email protected]

Probably.

Took me 6 years to sell the 99 pcs made.
The last 3 dozens or so I had to sell to Vihn at cost because they were moving too slow.

Unless I have a very good reason to make a new batch, which will most definitely be more expensive.
Yes, sadly they are gone forever. 





vadimax said:


> One question: once upon a time there were titanium versions of Seraph. Are they gone forever?


----------



## ven

Awesome stuff Mark, glad to hear the natural HA will be coming(a fav of mine). Even when not matched perfect, i dont see it as an issue personally. Surefire is well known for slight differences..............if anything it kind of adds to the appeal to me. 

The ti seraph is one of my fav hosts...............awesome! 

Keep up the great work, is very appreciated :bow:


----------



## vadimax

I know what perfectionism is. I am one of those myself. But. I suspect that majority of E-series natural HA fans will better make this:




instead of waiting for perfect battery tube and head/tailcap color match. This forum has a poll feature. You might find out if it worth the effort


----------



## ven

Yep i know what being perfection is like  :laughing:

On a serious note, just give us miss matched HA


----------



## vadimax

I am trying to change “wating” to “waiting”, but fail :hairpull: Looks like forum engine deliberately rejects one symbol edits.

P.S.: Bypassed that — I have changed 5 symbols.


----------



## [email protected]

Thank you for the support, guys.

As you guys understand, there is no way I can get them to "match".
But I am trying to get them in a good shade and doing what I can to limit the range of tones on the different parts to a minimum.

I really appreciate the support, means a lot to me.


----------



## UVvis

Order out!

For HA parts, honestly, I was more interested in a decent finish than looks. I never really assumed they should match in the first place and liked mismatch parts appearance wise.


----------



## vestureofblood

[email protected] said:


> Yes, my friend.
> Those were the days. A real shame Lighthound is gone now, they were real nice guys.
> Gotta love the old school vintages, incans are our roots and we will keep them in our lineup as long as possible.
> 
> Well, the HA3 Naturals....
> They were SUPPOSED to be released at the same time as the HA3 Black ones you see on sale now.
> But then the shade Fu**ed up AGAIN, so I have to scrap them once again.
> HA3 Naturals are real tough to get right and I need them to match the head and tailcap so I MUST anodize them all in one go.
> If they come out bad, then everything must be done all over again.
> The problem is that I can get the samples real nice and even match the later production darker shade E and M and C bodies I got.
> Then in production, it will always come out lighter or darker then I want it to be.
> So I am going have to monitor the entire process in house to do whatever I can to ensure it comes out at least acceptable.
> This is probably why you don't see many mass production lights in HA3 Naturals anymore, it is a PITA to make.
> 
> They will be out soon though, I am not going to give up on it.
> I love HA3 Naturals just like most of the old school guys and if it takes me 5 more tries then so be it. (hopefully not tho, LOL)




I'm not surprised really. There are few shops in the USA I have found that even offer Type III, and fewer of them that can do it correctly (despite what ever words you find in their name that would indicate otherwise "Qality XXX"). I think maybe 3 times in my life I have seen a perfect HAIII natural maglite. You would laugh out loud if you saw some of the batches of things I've sent out and got back. 

Thanks again for doing this.


----------



## night.hoodie

vestureofblood said:


> (despite what ever words you find in their name that would indicate otherwise "Qality XXX").


 
I think I'm not the only one that has realized that "Qality XXX"_[sic]_ may raise expectations to unrealistic and unattainable heights. My mother repeatedly warned me I would go blind, and only relatively recently have I realized she is probably right. Still, it is difficult to look away.


----------



## recDNA

[email protected] said:


> Thank you for the support, guys.
> 
> As you guys understand, there is not way I can get them to "match".
> But I am trying to get them in a good shade and doing what I can to limit the range of tones on the different parts to a minimum.
> 
> I really appreciate the support, means a lot to me.


Do you have an XPL e series head for the e2e that supports both 2 primaries or 1 16660?


----------



## bykfixer

Does anyone know if an E head with a singLED will play nice with the new bodies?


----------



## Crazyeddiethefirst

Hey bykfixer,
Based on conversations I had with Mark(last year), coupled with my experience with numerous Surefire E1e & E2e’s and a lot of LF pieces & parts I would give you a 98% certainty they would. I was a little slow to the party or I would already have a few of these to test with. I will offer this: if you buy them from LF and there is any type of a problem, I will buy them from you for full price. BTW, my wife tolerates my flashlight obsession but is very particular about what I leave in her car. The Lumens Factory Angel is a two mode 14500 light that plugs into a cigarette lighter(adapter included), OR an included USB cable. More importantly, the wife likes it, it is dependable and always ready to go. Wow, that sounded like a commercial...at least you know me well enough to know it isn’t, I was just really impressed with the company and Marks “get it done, but get it done right or don’t do it philosophy.


----------



## bykfixer

Cool.

I have a black front end and Z68. I was thinking of building an RCR123 fed singLED with a 1 cell LF body, but just wanted to ensure it'll fire. If it works it'll ride shotgun with a PKDL PR-1. 

Left pocket starts on low. Right pocket starts on high type of thing....


----------



## Jose Marin

Just got my 2cell body and is really nice quality, was wanting to swap out the clip but cant get to budge. Do they swap out hy sliding the clip toward the head threads like the originals?


----------



## Jim Bonney

I noticed those bodies a week ago. Super looking forward to getting an incan E1e setup for not much cashola. I sold both of the ones I had because I didn't like them enough to justify keeping them vs. the insane amount of money I got selling them instead. An all LF E1e I could really dig on. Such a handy work light.


----------



## [email protected]

recDNA said:


> Do you have an XPL e series head for the e2e that supports both 2 primaries or 1 16660?



The 3.7V-9V head can support that setup.
But the 3-3.7V version is much more ideal for the 1 x 16660 battery setup as the driver is more efficent for single cell setups.
So if you use the 1 cell setup mostly, I would go for the 3-3.7V version.

But the answer to your question would be the 3.7V-9V version, which will work on both 2 x CR123 and 1 x 16660.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Crazyeddiethefirst said:


> Hey bykfixer,
> Based on conversations I had with Mark(last year), coupled with my experience with numerous Surefire E1e & E2e’s and a lot of LF pieces & parts I would give you a 98% certainty they would. I was a little slow to the party or I would already have a few of these to test with. I will offer this: if you buy them from LF and there is any type of a problem, I will buy them from you for full price. BTW, my wife tolerates my flashlight obsession but is very particular about what I leave in her car. The Lumens Factory Angel is a two mode 14500 light that plugs into a cigarette lighter(adapter included), OR an included USB cable. More importantly, the wife likes it, it is dependable and always ready to go. Wow, that sounded like a commercial...at least you know me well enough to know it isn’t, I was just really impressed with the company and Marks “get it done, but get it done right or don’t do it philosophy.




Wow, thanks for the support.
It really means a lot to me.

Well, the Angel is kind of a flop to be honest.
I sold maybe 20 or so and most were given out to relatives, dealers and suppliers.
Everyone liked the light and use it a lot, I do too.
But somehow it just doesn't sell for some reason 

I am happy that you are one of the few who actually brought it and liked it.
Also, thank you for the continued support on the other products and our philosophy.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Jose Marin said:


> Just got my 2cell body and is really nice quality, was wanting to swap out the clip but cant get to budge. Do they swap out hy sliding the clip toward the head threads like the originals?



Hi Jose,

I am happy you liked the body.

Just use a needle nose pliers to pull the clip out toward the head thread just like the originals.
Taking the o-ring out first of course.
The clip is NOT glued and is meant to be removable, so some elbow grease should do the job.

Next time, you can ask me to sent you one with the clip not installed if you plan to swap the clip out.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

jimbyjimb said:


> I noticed those bodies a week ago. Super looking forward to getting an incan E1e setup for not much cashola. I sold both of the ones I had because I didn't like them enough to justify keeping them vs. the insane amount of money I got selling them instead. An all LF E1e I could really dig on. Such a handy work light.



Thanks for the support. 

A complete new run of the HA3 Black E Series Head Units were made with the bodies at the same time so it would have matching finishes.
The previous productions has a semi-gloss finish to them, those has been put away for now.
The tailcap has the same finish, but the knurling were made a bit more aggressive to help with grip when turning for lockouts or twisty operations. 
So the light matches well if you order a complete light.

Cheers


----------



## rjking

Hi Mark

Can you direct me as I couldn't find any complete set up on your site.




[email protected] said:


> Thanks for the support.
> 
> A complete new run of the HA3 Black E Series Head Units were made with the bodies at the same time so it would have matching finishes.
> The previous productions has a semi-gloss finish to them, those has been put away for now.
> The tailcap has the same finish, but the knurling were made a bit more aggressive to help with grip when turning for lockouts or twisty operations.
> So the light matches well if you order a complete light.
> 
> Cheers


----------



## jave-mtr

I received two of the E2 bodies and two twisty tailcaps yesterday. Quality looks very good, surface is nice, threads are cut cleanly and run smoothly once greased. Package arrived very quickly from Hong Kong and a number of stickers and even velcro patches were included. Great service, will purchase again when I can! :thumbsup:


----------



## night.hoodie

Jose Marin said:


> Just got my 2cell body and is really nice quality, was wanting to swap out the clip but cant get to budge. Do they swap out hy sliding the clip toward the head threads like the originals?





[email protected] said:


> Just use a needle nose pliers to pull the clip out toward the head thread just like the originals.
> Taking the o-ring out first of course.
> The clip is NOT glued and is meant to be removable, so some elbow grease should do the job.



Those of us with limited dexterity are bound to leave toolmarks, so be advised, and be careful not to smash your hand into your chin or face. I always forget about Newton's Laws of Motion, particularly the 2nd, until karmically reminded, often with the extra comic effect.

There is a nice Surefire clip-removal tutorial here for A2, E-series clips are pretty much the same. I have seen another older tutorial with pics at CPF before involving a fat wooden dowel and a mallet, for stubborn Surefire clips, but I could not find it just now to post here.




[email protected] said:


> Next time, you can ask me to sent you one with the clip not installed if you plan to swap the clip out.



That's customer service! Nice. 

Carrying these lights without a clip, which many prefer, allegedly jeopardizes water-tightness. McGizmo suggested a solution. It would be neat to see available a little Aluminum chad that could be placed snuggly in the clip slot, smoothing out the outer body shape flush, that would ensure water-tightness while carrying without a clip. Mark it up 1000% installed (assuming actual cost is a few cents), and we will still pay a few bucks for that convenience and assurance.


----------



## Rubicon1000

Mark, thank you for going though all of the work on these. I have a seraph 9p and quite a few of your drop ins. 
I'm thinking one of my kl1 head's will go nice on the e1l size. I j just received some stuff from LF and I couldn't be happier. I'll probably be ordering one this week. Thanks again for giving us the opportunity to have a Lego e series again. Dan


----------



## [email protected]

rjking said:


> Hi Mark
> 
> Can you direct me as I couldn't find any complete set up on your site.



We don't have a "complete light" for now, but you can purchase the 3 parts and make your own light.
So what I meant was for customers who want to make their own light, the finishing with the parts will now match.
Since before we make the E Bodies, the HA3 Black LED heads were of a semi-gloss finish.
But the ones now will be a HA3 flat/matt Black finish just like the bodies and the tailcaps.

Cheers.


----------



## [email protected]

jave-mtr said:


> I received two of the E2 bodies and two twisty tailcaps yesterday. Quality looks very good, surface is nice, threads are cut cleanly and run smoothly once greased. Package arrived very quickly from Hong Kong and a number of stickers and even velcro patches were included. Great service, will purchase again when I can! :thumbsup:



Thank you for your support.
I am happy to hear that you liked them.


----------



## [email protected]

night.hoodie said:


> Those of us with limited dexterity are bound to leave toolmarks, so be advised, and be careful not to smash your hand into your chin or face. I always forget about Newton's Laws of Motion, particularly the 2nd, until karmically reminded, often with the extra comic effect.
> 
> There is a nice Surefire clip-removal tutorial here for A2, E-series clips are pretty much the same. I have seen another older tutorial with pics at CPF before involving a fat wooden dowel and a mallet, for stubborn Surefire clips, but I could not find it just now to post here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's customer service! Nice.
> 
> Carrying these lights without a clip, which many prefer, allegedly jeopardizes water-tightness. McGizmo suggested a solution. It would be neat to see available a little Aluminum chad that could be placed snuggly in the clip slot, smoothing out the outer body shape flush, that would ensure water-tightness while carrying without a clip. Mark it up 1000% installed (assuming actual cost is a few cents), and we will still pay a few bucks for that convenience and assurance.



Hmm, that's an awesome idea.

I'll see how it can be done.
Using aluminum might scratch the light during installation and a bit difficult to install and remove.
Maybe we can look into making a plastic chad like the plastic pre-tensioner that will not scratch the light and be easier to install and also remove if need be.
Or maybe a modified clip that can act as a lanyard ring, like the one in the link you provided.

But I think the plastic chad should be the most ideal.
Maybe it can be made to be Glow in the dark?

I'll have to look into this.


----------



## flatline

These bodies should work with the Malkoff VME and MDC heads, right?

--flatline


----------



## jave-mtr

flatline said:


> These bodies should work with the Malkoff VME and MDC heads, right?
> --flatline


Yes, running one with a VME head right now.


----------



## flatline

How do these bodies compare to the MDC bodies?

I have zero experience with the E-series lights from Surefire, but am interested to understand the excitement around these bodies.

--flatline


----------



## flatline

Sorry if this is a bit off topic, but I was looking at the E-series heads from Lumens Factory to get an idea what a E-series flashlight could do and I've got a couple quick questions about them.

1. Does the 3-mode head use PWM to get the low and medium modes?
2. The voltage range for the head says 3v - 3.7v, but then further down the description says that head is compatible with 16340 cells. Does that mean that the input voltage range really goes up to 4.2v?

If the answers are, respectively, "No" and "Yes", then I'll get me a head, body, and tail. Heck, even if it does use PWM, as long as it's not too bad...

--flatline


----------



## vadimax

The second answer is definitely “yes”. I have asked Mark exactly the same question.


----------



## [email protected]

Hi flatline,

"Yes" for both questions.
I wouldn't say the PWM are too bad, but it is kind of subjective.
So get the Single mode if you wanna be absolutely safe. 

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## flatline

[email protected] said:


> Hi flatline,
> 
> "Yes" for both questions.
> I wouldn't say the PWM are too bad, but it is kind of subjective.
> So get the Single mode if you wanna be absolutely safe.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Order placed. I notice PWM, but it doesn't normally bother me much as long as it has a decently high frequency.

Edit: I noticed the voltage range was updated so that there was no confusion about whether or not the head works with li-ion. Excellent!

--flatline


----------



## bykfixer

Generally speaking in terms of pwm, if you don't see the flicker on computer screens you won't see the pwm in normal use.

Sometimes in rain or snow pwm can cause a bit of disco head.... as in feeling a bit disoriented due to the rapid on/off thing.


----------



## Crazyeddiethefirst

Hey Flatline, I agree with bykfixer regarding PWM-I have two multimode Lumens Factory heads & have not been bothered by PWM at all. Regarding your question about the new bodies-I have not received mine yet(expected any day), but in the years I have purchased their products I can say they have excellent quality control and I have never been disappointed by their products. As you can tell from Mark’s comments earlier, he is willing to toss products that don’t meet expectations, and keep fine tuning until they meet expectations. Also, as you noted above when there was a question of voltage, it was corrected promptly. He is also one of those people who strive to answer every email too...


----------



## recDNA

I will watch and wait for a complete flashlight with a discount compared to separated parts.


----------



## Crazyeddiethefirst

I received my E2e body, added a black Surefire E2e head and an E2d tailcap and it looks amazing(photos to follow in a day or two). The body feels lighter than the original, but excellent quality and flawless threads. Now I need to order an E1e body in black. To my eye, with the Black Surefire head and tail the anodizing looks as if they were all from the same batch with an excellent match of finish.


----------



## Mikeg23

Glad to see black “E series” bodies and tail caps available! I have a question about the single led that is available... will the low voltage one run on two AA batteries? And what happens as the voltage drops below regulation does the light still work?


----------



## StudFreeman

Really great to see Lumens Factory support the E-series fans. Hope to see incandescent E heads available soon!
Also, a 2AA E-compatible body would be fantastic.


----------



## novice

Thank you, Mark, for making the E2C adapter available! I just ordered my second one in several months, today. I'm going to use it to put a Z44 bezel on a Fivemega 2x18650 e-head body, and, since the fit of a protected 18650 in that body can be a bit tight, I'll probably use 2x17670 I've got laying around. It can be very difficult to find an original SF E2C adapter, so I appreciate the support!

Um, not to be _overly_ greedy, but have you ever given thought to E-series and C-series "clamp-down" filters? They were well made, frequently produced in extremely limited numbers, and generally priced more than most people were willing to pay. Just a thought...


----------



## [email protected]

Mikeg23 said:


> Glad to see black “E series” bodies and tail caps available! I have a question about the single led that is available... will the low voltage one run on two AA batteries? And what happens as the voltage drops below regulation does the light still work?



Yes, the "2.7-4.5V" versions of the heads will both work when using 2 x AA batteries.
If you are refering to the E1-LED drop-in module, it will also work when using 2 x AA batteries.


----------



## [email protected]

StudFreeman said:


> Really great to see Lumens Factory support the E-series fans. Hope to see incandescent E heads available soon!
> Also, a 2AA E-compatible body would be fantastic.



I will look into the possibility of making a 2 AA body.
Always hoping to bring more support for the E Series which I personally love, just like you guys.


----------



## [email protected]

novice said:


> Thank you, Mark, for making the E2C adapter available! I just ordered my second one in several months, today. I'm going to use it to put a Z44 bezel on a Fivemega 2x18650 e-head body, and, since the fit of a protected 18650 in that body can be a bit tight, I'll probably use 2x17670 I've got laying around. It can be very difficult to find an original SF E2C adapter, so I appreciate the support!
> 
> Um, not to be _overly_ greedy, but have you ever given thought to E-series and C-series "clamp-down" filters? They were well made, frequently produced in extremely limited numbers, and generally priced more than most people were willing to pay. Just a thought...



Thank you for your support. 

Well, to be honest, we are not very familiar with making filters. 
So I will probably not make these.

But we do have a lot of stuff planned, so stay tuned.


----------



## ma tumba

Mark, do you still hate the 2-way clips for e1e?


----------



## bykfixer

2aa body possible? 
Heck yeah!!


----------



## novice

[email protected],
Have you considered making an e-series 1xCR123a extender? It would allow people with 2-cell e-series lights to lengthen them, and run them off of 2x16500 cells, greatly increasing the runtime. I would love to try this with my modded A2 Aviators, and possibly some E2Es. Someone might want to run E1E bulbs in a lengthened E1E off of 2xAA. People with more need of a kubotan than I could attach two extenders, and use 2x16650 cells. 16340 cells have rather limited energy storage capacity. Someone, I have forgotten who, used to make these several years ago, but they are no longer available. Thanks for listening!


----------



## euroken

novice said:


> [email protected],
> Have you considered making an e-series 1xCR123a extender? It would allow people with 2-cell e-series lights to lengthen them, and run them off of 2x16500 cells, greatly increasing the runtime. I would love to try this with my modded A2 Aviators, and possibly some E2Es. Someone might want to run E1E bulbs in a lengthened E1E off of 2xAA. People with more need of a kubotan than I could attach two extenders, and use 2x16650 cells. 16340 cells have rather limited energy storage capacity. Someone, I have forgotten who, used to make these several years ago, but they are no longer available. Thanks for listening!



This is not likely possible as the rear end of a standard e series body is too small to put cr123 cells nor AA for that matter. You'll need to make a E to C tail body to start with and then consider adding a C head extender.


----------



## novice

Ah, Euroken, you are right of course. I don't know why I so easily forget about the narrowing of the E-body. A pity that Surefire never made a 3-cell A2.


----------



## Mikeg23

E-series extenders were, in fact, made at one point they simply went between the head and body but they were quite ugly in my opinion.


----------



## [email protected]

Yes, the narrowing of the rear end made it impossible for extenders.
The only way to make one would be between the head and the body.

I didn't know that there were extenders made for the E-Series.
Does anyone have a picture of that extender that would like to share?


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Mark, do you still hate the 2-way clips for e1e?



Yes ma tumba, I still hates those 2-way clips. 
But since you guys asked for them, I went ahead and made them.
They should be released in a couple weeks hopefully.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## archimedes

[email protected] said:


> Yes, the narrowing of the rear end made it impossible for extenders.
> The only way to make one would be between the head and the body.
> 
> I didn't know that there were extenders made for the E-Series.
> Does anyone have a picture of that extender that would like to share?



I have one somewhere in my parts box, but I haven't used it (or even seen it) for ages.

If i can find it, I'd be glad to take a photo and post that up for you.

Any particular view(s) or comparison item(s) you'd prefer ?


----------



## Mikeg23

I used to own and e series extender I think it was valiant concepts maybe? 
The e-series addicts unite thread probably has several examples but google revealed post 517 as one 

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?234418-SureFire-E-Series-Addicts-Unite!/page18


----------



## archimedes

Mikeg23 said:


> I used to own and e series extender I think it was valiant concepts maybe? The e-series addicts unite thread probably has several examples but google revealed post 517 as one https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?234418-SureFire-E-Series-Addicts-Unite!/page18



Yep, that's the one ... and yes, mine is by Valiant.

The direct link to that post (for reference) is ...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...dicts-Unite!&p=3615203&viewfull=1#post3615203


----------



## archimedes

A few more photos, here ...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...dicts-Unite!&p=3677209&viewfull=1#post3677209

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...dicts-Unite!&p=3839600&viewfull=1#post3839600

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-tailcap-amp-VC-E-series-extender-*Photos-Up*


----------



## nilfire77

Photo comparison of my newly received LF E series (complete light) vs my SF E1e (armed with a Tana SingLED light engine):

*Entire light*






*Tailcaps*





*LEDs*





*Pocket clips*





*Butt view of light engines*






Shipping/delivery time was quick (lead time was 7 working days ; from HK - SG). Feel/fit & finish of the whole light is solid and machined perfectly. Matching of the color (head/body/tailcap) is spot on as well. Total damage: US$145 (incld. $20 shipping cost)

Overall, very happy with the new acquisition from LF. Thanks Mark!


----------



## [email protected]

Wow, that extender sure if neat. 
I never knew one existed and seeing one with double extenders attached is some true flashaholic setup right there. 
Thanks guys. :twothumbs


----------



## [email protected]

Thank you for your support and kind comment, nilfire77.

A lot of new accessories are in the works, but encountered quite a few speed bumps.
Hopefully they will all smooth out and will be able to provide some more parts for you guy's enjoyment without much delays.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## rjking

[email protected] said:


> Yes ma tumba, I still hates those 2-way clips.
> But since you guys asked for them, I went ahead and made them.
> They should be released in a couple weeks hopefully.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



I'm in for 6 short and 4 long 2 way clips.


----------



## id30209

I'm in for 2 short 2way clips and E bezels once available.


----------



## rjking

[email protected] said:


> Yes ma tumba, I still hates those 2-way clips.
> But since you guys asked for them, I went ahead and made them.
> They should be released in a couple weeks hopefully.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Any update on this Mark?


----------



## [email protected]

Yup, here they are.











They are available now, these do not need the plastic re-tensioner.
The short version 2-way clip is the version that has the hole, so you can put a lanyard on if you like.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

Hoooooraaaay! How do I order? Your web site can not be accessed from Russia


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Hoooooraaaay! How do I order? Your web site can not be accessed from Russia



Hi ma tumba, we switched to a new server 2 weeks ago.
The problem with Russia, Ukraine and other countries in the area that cannot access our website should be fixed.


----------



## Eric242

GREAT! :thumbsup: Thanks for making these Mark. I just ordered a handfull of the short one.

Eric


----------



## rjking




----------



## ma tumba

Ordered some short and long ones, too. One my most wanted parts for long long time


----------



## id30209

Same here, well not that long but passion is the same!
Thx Mark!


----------



## Eric242

Received mine yesterday, well made. Easily to distinguish from the original due to the bend in the middle. The bend makes it hold the light much firmer in the bezel up position. Much firmer than the original clip.

Though mine were slightly too wide on the front, the part that attaches the clip to the light. Had to file the sides slightly to be able fit the clips. But that was just a few seconds for each clip.

Eric


----------



## nimdabew

Ohh jeeze. I just bought a bunch of Malkoff stuff, now it looks like I am going to Lego an E1 with a twisty cap too. I can't stand PMW so I will probably have another order for a Malkoff head to go with this too. Great product!


----------



## Dave D

Bought a 2-way long clip for my E2D, perfect fit and with the Malkoff MDC HML head it's now my perfect EDC!! :thumbsup:


----------



## recDNA

What would be my best combo of these parts to get max throw from 1 x CR123A primary?


----------



## [email protected]

recDNA said:


> What would be my best combo of these parts to get max throw from 1 x CR123A primary?



To get max throw for a 1 x CR123A primary setup out be to use our E Series Single Mode LED Head Unit with the E Series 1 Cell body and your choice of Twisty or McClicky Tailcap.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

Hey Mark, have you ever tried to aluminize a tip of an incand bulb so it provides a spill free throw with a reflectorized light? We discussed this idea a while ago.


----------



## bignc

I just got my two way clip for my surefire e1E. It is great. No issues installing- it is snug and we'll made! 

I also got some of the incandescent lamps and the LED drop in from Lumens Factory. The lamps work great but I could use some help on the LED drop in. The drop in actually flickers while I’m tightening the head on but once I get everything in place will not come on. I guess there is a connection issue somewhere I need to check? Don’t have any flicker or problems turning on with the Incan... So i need to fool around with it.


----------



## [email protected]

Hey bignc,

Thank you for your support.
I am glad to hear that you are happy with our products.

Try to take off the tailcap before installing the LED module, so the module will sit correctly on the body.
Then tighten the head unit as tight as possible.
After that reinstall the tailcap.

If you still have problems, contact me directly at our company email.
I'll take care of any problems you have.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## bignc

Thanks Mark. I was going to fool with it more before I bothered you but I will send you an email. I know your customer service is widely praised!


----------



## euroken

bignc said:


> Thanks Mark. I was going to fool with it more before I bothered you but I will send you an email. I know your customer service is widely praised!



Is the body bored by any chance?


----------



## bignc

It does not appear to be. I bought it used here recently and a 16340 protected is snug. A cr123 is no easier in and out than in any other and the tube seems to be between 16 and 17 with my calipers.

Just thinking that would mean poor concact?


----------



## euroken

The diameter of the contact area does matter since the drop ins are usually designed for 16mm. If the negative contact on your drop in happens to be dirty and the body is bored for 18mm there is a chance that contact is not made. 

Since your body body doesn’t sound like it was bored, that isn’t likely your problem.


----------



## bignc

thank you, e.k. I appreciate you taking the time to reply! I did send sales at l.f.an email and am confident they will work with me.


----------



## bignc

Fyi, the led drop in was made snug and functional with a single wrap of copper tape. ☺ To stay on topic, my OF two way clip is awesome.


----------



## nimdabew

I can't remember if it was said earlier in the thread, but is there going to be an incan E series head?


----------



## Mikeg23

Post #16


----------



## Mikeg23

I got my 3-3.7 volt single output head yesterday! I opted for the warm white 90 cri and man is it warm. I’m curious to know what the color is on the cool white option.

Anyway I initially ran it for a bit on an Aw 17670 and it’s a very bright wall of light. Then I moved it over to two eneloops which is one of potential reasons I bought it and it is not as bright on the eneloops bit still bright enough for my needs.

To further describe the color this is now the warmest light I own. Warmer than [email protected], warmer than [email protected], It’s even warmer than the 2,700k leds in my bathroom.


----------



## ch4ins4w

I got the full Lumens Factory E-2 set up: the two-way clip on a 2 cell body with clicky tail cap and the new black bezel. I even got a Lumens Factory XPL 3 mode drop-in. I changed the driver to a MTElectronics MTN17DDm driver with Guppydrv3. That driver is lots of fun. Now I want to change the LED to an XPL Hi V3 cool white for maximum throw. Anyone know the diameter of the copper mount I need for this size pill? This is my favorite light to carry due to size, the look of it, and the comfortable carry with that clip.


----------



## nimdabew

Mikeg23 said:


> I got my 3-3.7 volt single output head yesterday! I opted for the warm white 90 cri and man is it warm. I’m curious to know what the color is on the cool white option.
> 
> Anyway I initially ran it for a bit on an Aw 17670 and it’s a very bright wall of light. Then I moved it over to two eneloops which is one of potential reasons I bought it and it is not as bright on the eneloops bit still bright enough for my needs.
> 
> To further describe the color this is now the warmest light I own. It’s even warmer than the 2,700k leds in my bathroom.



Estimated lumen output?


----------



## Mikeg23

nimdabew said:


> Estimated lumen output?



I’m not the best to make an estimation but I can say that on a 17670 it’s over 300 lumens... on two eneloops it’s probably at or a bit under 300 lumens.

I’m comparing it to a Malkoff M61N and fenix Ld12 2017 with 14500 to get estimation.


----------



## Mikeg23

Here is a size or height comparison with Incan bezel, VME, and KL4. It’s the same height as the VME, but much thinner, matching the Incan and KL4 at the lens without the swelling near the threads.
http://


----------



## Crazyeddiethefirst

[email protected] said:


> Thank you for your support and kind comment, nilfire77.
> 
> A lot of new accessories are in the works, but encountered quite a few speed bumps.
> Hopefully they will all smooth out and will be able to provide some more parts for you guy's enjoyment without much delays.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Hi Mark,
I can’t tell you how greatly I, and many of my friends and fellow flashaholics appreciate your continued support of the Surefire Executive Elite E series parts and accessories. I just sent you an email regarding some additional questions about various parts and materials-keep up the excellent work, you and your company are awesome and much appreciated!


----------



## bykfixer

Long live the Lumens Factory


----------



## id30209

Mark, when we’ll see E incan heads?


----------



## Mikeg23

I don’t see on the website where they list a color temp for the standard white? Does anyone know?


----------



## [email protected]

Crazyeddiethefirst said:


> Hi Mark,
> I can’t tell you how greatly I, and many of my friends and fellow flashaholics appreciate your continued support of the Surefire Executive Elite E series parts and accessories. I just sent you an email regarding some additional questions about various parts and materials-keep up the excellent work, you and your company are awesome and much appreciated!



Thank you for your support


----------



## [email protected]

bykfixer said:


> Long live the Lumens Factory



Haha, thanks man.
It is with supporters like you that we survived 12 years in this very competitive market.


----------



## [email protected]

id30209 said:


> Mark, when we’ll see E incan heads?



Working on it full throttle, hopefully it will be ready before people start buying Christmas presents.


----------



## [email protected]

Mikeg23 said:


> I don’t see on the website where they list a color temp for the standard white? Does anyone know?



It is at the warmer end of the "Cool White" category.
5500-6500K area.


----------



## Mikeg23

Thank you!


----------



## rjking

[email protected] said:


> Working on it full throttle, hopefully it will be ready before people start buying Christmas presents.



Almost there.


----------



## night.hoodie

Just checking in... thought I was the only one chomping at the bit for these heads. We understand the natural anno is tough to match, but the black is still as or more highly desired. Mark, I hope you're not getting too fancy with them. Speaking personally, I hate crenellations... because it is trying to serve two masters. We just want unmatched incan light; I know I do not need a knife or a striker, and when I do, I buy a knife or a striker, not a flashlight. 61 days until 2019. 

In other news, some piece of work is on the bay trying to sell a loose E head with crennelated bezel and lamp for $75. Let's bombard him with low offers. Whaddaya say? I went as high as $37, then started asking him what his lowest acceptable offer is, along with links to recently completed sales for entire lights for less than that... but still, he will not say. If the seller is a member here, see my tiny fist shaking at you!


----------



## LiftdT4R

Thanks, I'm keeping my fingers crossed as well and I'll be picking up a few!! Love the E1 and E2 bodies I bought. I gotta post some pics here soon!


----------



## bykfixer

FYI, Mark does Pelican and Streamlight stuff too. 

Just sayin'. 

And for the light bulb user, his drop in's are fantastic. I set all my factory bulbs aside and use LF's exclusively. Each arrives in a little padded pill bottle in a nice box and a Lumens Factory sticker for your thermos, laptop or whatever.
It's the little things....

When the heads come out, ya gotta try the E1 compatable bulb. Makes your E1 style light have a Mike Tyson punch through darkness.


----------



## LiftdT4R

Any update on the E heads? I'm in for a couple. Think I'm finally gonna break down and get a Tana in 2019.


----------



## [email protected]

I am still trying to improve the reflector since I want to improve the beam quality over the original.
Have tried a couple of different configurations, but I still want to see if I can get it better.

The original reflector is very small and shallow, so there is not much room for me to do modifications.
But I will try a couple more prototypes before I settle on which to use for the final product.

So we will need a bit more time on this project, I am looking at the 1st Quarter of 2019 as a realistic release date.

I am extremely sorry for the wait, but bringing something out that is not ready and not something that I would like to use myself will do more harm than good.

Meanwhile, we do have new products released like the new E2T Tactician style clip and LED Module for the 8X, 8NX, 8AX.
Some more items will be released this month, so be sure to check our website out.


Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays. 


Mark


----------



## LiftdT4R

Awesome, thanks so much for the update!!!!!


----------



## Lumen83

[email protected] said:


> I am still trying to improve the reflector since I want to improve the beam quality over the original.



Hey Mark, just curious what type of improvement you are aiming for. I would be very interested if you could get the spill part of the beam brighter instead of just a very distinct hotspot with very dim spill that the surefires have. Then I would have a complete lumens factory light. Right now its surefire head with lumens factory lamp, clip, body, and twisty tail cap. Great stuff.


----------



## thermal guy

I just got a couple of incadencense drop ins for my E2E from here. 
. Great product!


----------



## [email protected]

Lumen83 said:


> Hey Mark, just curious what type of improvement you are aiming for. I would be very interested if you could get the spill part of the beam brighter instead of just a very distinct hotspot with very dim spill that the surefires have. Then I would have a complete lumens factory light. Right now its surefire head with lumens factory lamp, clip, body, and twisty tail cap. Great stuff.



I wanted the beam to be more focused and with a more noticable hot spot and as much throw as I can get this shallow reflector to give me.
This might be the opposite of what you are after. LOL.
But honestly it is difficult to achieve what I am after because, as I mentioned, the reflector is too small and shallow to get more throw/focused beam out of it.
So I might have to settle for something more on the lines of what you described because the only thing I can do might actually be a less stapled and more reflective plating.
Which will result in a brighter overall beam pattern (both hotspot and brighter spill), but a beam pattern that is still faithful to the original.

I will do two more prototype runs which should take a month or so, after that I will decide which configuration to use since I am not going to delay the project further.

Thank you for your support.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

thermal guy said:


> I just got a couple of incadencense drop ins for my E2E from here.
> . Great product!



Thanks for the support, thermal guy. Keep that hot wire burning! :twothumbs


----------



## ma tumba

That is a very exciting project, Mark. Thanks a lot for doing this!


----------



## [email protected]

LiftdT4R said:


> Awesome, thanks so much for the update!!!!!



Sorry for the delay and thank you for your support.


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> That is a very exciting project, Mark. Thanks a lot for doing this!



Thanks ma tumba, the support you guys give me really keeps me going in these hard times.

Merry Christmas, mate.


----------



## ma tumba

Merry Christmas to you, too!


----------



## Mikeg23

Is the new reflector being designed with a hot wire in mind or with your led led drop in? Just curious.


----------



## [email protected]

Mikeg23 said:


> Is the new reflector being designed with a hot wire in mind or with your led led drop in? Just curious.



Hi Mike,

If I were to design it with just hot wire or LED, it would have been completed months ago. 
What I am trying to do is to make a reflector that would be usable for both hot wire and LED with improved beam qualities over the stock E1e/E2e aka "elite" reflector.

Getting a 100% replica of the reflector was hard enough, but accomplished in October.
But I wanted to improve the reflector, so we did a bunch of prototypes.
The elite reflector is a really small and shallow reflector so I do not have much room to do much.
From the looks of it, I might have to settle for the exact replica and see what I can do with the plating part because I do not want to stall the release any longer.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

Mark, what are the specs of the glass you are planning to use? Specifically I wonder if it could be used as a replacement for an elite head?

Also I wonder if it is a reasonable effort to white paint the reflector to eventually get an incandescent mule in e1e form factor. This is something I have wanted for years


----------



## cubebike

I bought the E1 body recently. I am so happy with the built. I digged out my old KuKu single cell dropin, scout tail, E bezel. I am another happy customer of LF. Looking forward for the E bezel. 

Thank you Mark for the top notch quality product.


----------



## thermal guy

Now you see I like that. It’s new old school. If that makes sense.


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Mark, what are the specs of the glass you are planning to use? Specifically I wonder if it could be used as a replacement for an elite head?
> 
> Also I wonder if it is a reasonable effort to white paint the reflector to eventually get an incandescent mule in e1e form factor. This is something I have wanted for years



I am kept it as close to the original as possible, but it is extremely difficult to get the exact size outside of the US because no one else use inches for measurements.
What I got is a lens with very similar thickness and a silicone gasket that is a bit thicker so the combo can be used on the elite head as replacement.

What do you mean white painting the reflector?

Cheers.


----------



## [email protected]

cubebike said:


> I bought the E1 body recently. I am so happy with the built. I digged out my old KuKu single cell dropin, scout tail, E bezel. I am another happy customer of LF. Looking forward for the E bezel.
> 
> Thank you Mark for the top notch quality product.




Thank you, Sir.
I am happy to hear that you liked our products.

That's one awesome creation you got there, sleek and beautiful.
Like the Thermal Guy said, "New Old School".
Best of both worlds, bringing back the vintage because they just don't make them like they used to. 


Cheers.


----------



## Tachead

Thanks for all your hard work Mark👍. I ordered a bunch of your e-series parts and look forward to their arrival. I will post my thoughts when they arrive.


----------



## night.hoodie

[email protected] said:


> What do you mean white painting the reflector?



ma tumba means no silver reflector... white instead. Please don't do this. 

ma tumba, unless you don't have hands, you can do this yourself with a paper towel (to wipe out the silver) and some White Out from an office supply. Or whatever. I had the same idea... but instead of ruining the reflector, I cut a piece of thin white cardboard in a cone-doughnut shape, and covered the reflector with it, held in with bezel and lens. This also works without permanently altering the bezel and did not damage the silver, though probably a fire hazard with the hottest lamps. I know I am splitting hairs, but I'd describe it as all spill, rather than flood. (Flood is like fill, and more diffuse, while spill is light coming in straight lines in all directions possible directly from the filament. It's like a hanging clear-glass light bulb overhead.)

Mark, I cannot wait to get a hold of Lumens Factory's 25.4mm head-reflector-lens-bezel replacements for Surefire's 1-inch Elite heads. I think I'll need at least 5.

Also planning on getting some LF lamps. You were describing how you wanted to get the reflector more focused. The HO-E1A I have, more than any other lamp I have used, has such a tight beam... I don't know how you did that. But it's amazing, and I'll want to try some more powerful lamps to see if they are also focused as a tight, thick, laserbeam-looking, light saber-blade looking, beam, to put a spot waaaaaay over there.


----------



## bykfixer

As always...

Lumens Factory 
ROOLZ


----------



## [email protected]

Tachead said:


> Thanks for all your hard work Mark. I ordered a bunch of your e-series parts and look forward to their arrival. I will post my thoughts when they arrive.



Thank you for your support, Sir.


----------



## [email protected]

night.hoodie said:


> ma tumba means no silver reflector... white instead. Please don't do this.
> 
> ma tumba, unless you don't have hands, you can do this yourself with a paper towel (to wipe out the silver) and some White Out from an office supply. Or whatever. I had the same idea... but instead of ruining the reflector, I cut a piece of thin white cardboard in a cone-doughnut shape, and covered the reflector with it, held in with bezel and lens. This also works without permanently altering the bezel and did not damage the silver, though probably a fire hazard with the hottest lamps. I know I am splitting hairs, but I'd describe it as all spill, rather than flood. (Flood is like fill, and more diffuse, while spill is light coming in straight lines in all directions possible directly from the filament. It's like a hanging clear-glass light bulb overhead.)
> 
> Mark, I cannot wait to get a hold of Lumens Factory's 25.4mm head-reflector-lens-bezel replacements for Surefire's 1-inch Elite heads. I think I'll need at least 5.
> 
> Also planning on getting some LF lamps. You were describing how you wanted to get the reflector more focused. The HO-E1A I have, more than any other lamp I have used, has such a tight beam... I don't know how you did that. But it's amazing, and I'll want to try some more powerful lamps to see if they are also focused as a tight, thick, laserbeam-looking, light saber-blade looking, beam, to put a spot waaaaaay over there.




Actually it seems interesting to me.

So white painting it to get a totally unfocused beam, kind of like a wall of light sort of thing I imagine.
I had a similar idea about offering a reflector that is "un-plated", so it is just a aluminium reflector with the machine marks that has a somewhat "brushed aluminium" effect.
I made one like this to test and found it is useful for close up work and especially inside of the car or trying to find stuff in the drawer and under the table and such.
The idea came from those very small lights that do not have a real reflector just a very small and unplated reflector that was popular a while back that I got laying around. (maybe they are still popluar??)

So no I will not white paint anything, LOL.
But I will seriously consider to offer an un-plated reflector like this that can be useful for this kind of use or for Ma Tumba to paint, LOL.

Well, night.hoodie. I am sorry to say that I think I failed on making a more focused reflector after all these attempts.
So it will be a direct reproduction, although the plating with be more reflective than the original Surefire so I can get more light from the light source. (Both LED and incan)
That most likely means my Mirror Finish plan is down the drain because it will have way too much artifacts in the beam.
I will still do what I can to improve the product, but big changes on the parabola could not be achieved due to not having enough room to work with if I am to keep the outer dimension and design.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

night.hoodie said:


> ma tumba means no silver reflector... white instead. Please don't do this.
> 
> ma tumba, unless you don't have hands, you can do this yourself with a paper towel (to wipe out the silver) and some White Out from an office supply. Or whatever. I had the same idea... but instead of ruining the reflector, I cut a piece of thin white cardboard in a cone-doughnut shape, and covered the reflector with it, held in with bezel and lens. This also works without permanently altering the bezel and did not damage the silver, though probably a fire hazard with the hottest lamps. I know I am splitting hairs, but I'd describe it as all spill, rather than flood. (Flood is like fill, and more diffuse, while spill is light coming in straight lines in all directions possible directly from the filament. It's like a hanging clear-glass light bulb overhead.)
> 
> Mark, I cannot wait to get a hold of Lumens Factory's 25.4mm head-reflector-lens-bezel replacements for Surefire's 1-inch Elite heads. I think I'll need at least 5.
> 
> Also planning on getting some LF lamps. You were describing how you wanted to get the reflector more focused. The HO-E1A I have, more than any other lamp I have used, has such a tight beam... I don't know how you did that. But it's amazing, and I'll want to try some more powerful lamps to see if they are also focused as a tight, thick, laserbeam-looking, light saber-blade looking, beam, to put a spot waaaaaay over there.



Well, I would avoid using a paper millimeters away from a hot wire. Same thing about the wipe out, I have no idea if it would stay white after being exposed to extreme heat.

Some time ago I talked Henry into making diffuse reflectors for HDS lights and I am a happy owner of such a light. It is not ruining a good product it is just having two different high quality products for different purposes


----------



## thermal guy

“I am sorry to say that I think I failed on making a more focused reflector after all these attempts.”

Hell. The dam thing is so shallow and small I would of been surprised if you did. I’m sure whatever you come out with will be great and definitely plan on buying a few.thanks for all your hard work. Keeping old school alive!!


----------



## id30209

Mark, whatever you do it’s FANTASTIC!!!
Twothumbsup!!


----------



## bykfixer

Mark,

You can go dinosaur old school and nickel plate it without the shine and corresponding chrome topping. 






A 1918 style where it was nickel plated





By the 20's there was a bit of shine of the nickel plating





A pure flooder reflector
That came from an idea where Eveready made some dull white painted reflectors for the Daylo line of military lights issued in WW1.
I coated a B-Lite reflector with enamel engine paint since all of the chrome had flaked off the plastic. 





I placed a #224 bulb in it for the focus tip that allows an ever-so-slight hot spot out front. Instead of a 3 to 5 foot reach you can see about 25 feet even though the fisheye lens and white reflector spread light out like a carpet.

And here's an oldy but goody idea:




Two way clip
In the Daylo the clip was also a sliding on/off switch.


----------



## Tachead

Nice lights Bykfixer and thanks for the history lesson👍.


----------



## Tachead

Well, I just got my shipment. I received a 1 cell body, Z52 clicky, Z52 momentary, and a 2-way clip for the 1 cell body. I just had a quick look and will post a further review once I use them a bit but, so far I am impressed. Nice machining, nice knurling, nice anodizing, and everything seems to work well.

Nice job Mark, you and the team keep up the great work and thanks for continuing to support the legendary E-Series👍.


----------



## Lumen83

I'm running a similar setup for my EDC, Tachead, and I love it. LF 1 cell body, two way clip, LF twisty tail cap, HO E1R bulb in a surefire e2e head, and an rcr123a.


----------



## Tachead

Lumen83 said:


> I'm running a similar setup for my EDC, Tachead, and I love it. LF 1 cell body, two way clip, LF twisty tail cap, HO E1R bulb in a surefire e2e head, and an rcr123a.


Nice👍. I plan to get an E-Series head too once Mark finishes them. Then I will have to decide if I like that head or a VME better. Gotta love playing legos(both with flashlights and actual Legos lol).


----------



## Tachead

Hey Mark, is there any chance of a run of M2T-MV compatible single cell E-bodies in the future? Some of these newer E-Series lights have slightly longer threading which means your current bodies only allow low mode as the head will not thread on far enough. I can see how much interest there is if you would like? Thanks👍.


----------



## fyrstormer

+1 on an E-series body with extended threading. In particular, the Surefire model that isn't compatible with the normal E-series body is the Tactician. The shoulder on the Tactician body is trimmed back slightly, to allow the head to screw on slightly further than normal. This allows a mechanical selection of low or high modes separate from the power switch. However, some of us (or maybe it's just me?) would prefer to use a single 16340 cell for a smaller flashlight, rather than the standard configuration of 2x CR123 cells. But the Tactician head won't work with a normal E-series body, so a special version with ~0.5mm longer threading is needed.


----------



## LiftdT4R

Glad to hear the E series head is closer to production! I've been waiting patiently for these. I plan to order 2, one to keep stock and another to send to tana. I've been wanting a tana light for quite some time now. Thanks Mark!!!!


----------



## [email protected]

Tachead said:


> Hey Mark, is there any chance of a run of M2T-MV compatible single cell E-bodies in the future? Some of these newer E-Series lights have slightly longer threading which means your current bodies only allow low mode as the head will not thread on far enough. I can see how much interest there is if you would like? Thanks.





fyrstormer said:


> +1 on an E-series body with extended threading. In particular, the Surefire model that isn't compatible with the normal E-series body is the Tactician....




Yes, I do notice this and was thinking about it.

The M2T-MV Tactician is (in my opinion) the best light Surefire came out with in a very very long time.
The new clip design and the lanyard ring tailcap are truly innovative to the E Platform and finally solved that 20 years lanyard problem on the E.
That head unit low-high design is awesome as well, but I would prefer something with throw more than a wall of light.
But the M2T-MV Tactician does what it was meant to be, a tactical light.

I will try to get the new production bodies to have the extended threading because I am sensing this type of multi-mode head units are the future and it adds something different to our bodies as well.
I don't want our bodies to be "just" good clones, I want them to be something more than that.

Also, are there any demand or interest for a 2 x AA E body or even a 1 x AA body (which will probably be limited to using a 14500 because no one has anything that runs on 1 x AA (1.2-1.5V)) ?

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## euroken

Yes on 1xaa body please!!


----------



## id30209

euroken said:


> Yes on 1xaa body please!!



+1!!!


----------



## archimedes

[email protected] said:


> ....
> Also, are there any demand or interest for a 2 x AA E body *or even a 1 x AA body* (which will probably be limited to using a 14500 because no one has anything that runs on 1 x AA (1.2-1.5V)) ? ....



Yes, this ...







... is a Balrog tube. And yes, it runs down to ~ 0.8V[emoji317]


----------



## ma tumba

Actually, 1xAA and 2xAA would be GREAT! And 1xAA is the greatest of the two, imho!


----------



## flatline

[email protected] said:


> Also, are there any demand or interest for a 2 x AA E body or even a 1 x AA body (which will probably be limited to using a 14500 because no one has anything that runs on 1 x AA (1.2-1.5V)) ?



Hmm...I know Malkoff has 1xAA and 2xAA MDC bodies that are E-series head compatible, but I have no idea how well they sell. There is an active group of folks here on the forums using M31 drop-ins in 2xAA and 1xAA configurations, but it's not clear to me if that translates to enough demand to support developing a new product. 

For what it's worth, I just bought a Surefire G3 to use as a 2xAA host. Someone else made the minimum bid and then I placed my bid $1 above theirs and my bid stood until the auction closed 2 days later. For all the talk about G3s here on the forums, I was shocked that there wasn't more interest in actually purchasing a new G3 when it came up for auction.

I guess what I'm saying is to be careful. I'd hate for you to sink time and money into developing AA bodies only to discover that demand is satisfied by the first batch you offer.

BTW, I'm having a blast with the E1 and E2 bodies I got from you last year. Thank you for making these!

--flatline


----------



## Toehead

Put me down for an extended e-series body also. I want to convert an E1B-MV Tactician to a single cell body. An integrated stop for a z-grip would be icing on the cake but I'll take what I can get. I had a Backup E1B-MV but sold it because I didn't like adjusting the output with double click. The tactician head UI is perfect for me. Also, what type of ETA for this...several weeks, several months?


----------



## fyrstormer

[email protected] said:


> Yes, I do notice this and was thinking about it.
> 
> The M2T-MV Tactician is (in my opinion) the best light Surefire came out with in a very very long time.
> The new clip design and the lanyard ring tailcap are truly innovative to the E Platform and finally solved that 20 years lanyard problem on the E.
> That head unit low-high design is awesome as well, but I would prefer something with throw more than a wall of light.
> But the M2T-MV Tactician does what it was meant to be, a tactical light.
> 
> I will try to get the new production bodies to have the extended threading because I am sensing this type of multi-mode head units are the future and it adds something different to our bodies as well.
> I don't want our bodies to be "just" good clones, I want them to be something more than that.
> 
> Mark


After some experimenting, I have determined the necessary amount of extended threading is very, very small. I have several Surefire E1 bodies; some of them work with the Tactician head, and some of them don't work. So the upper limit of the normal length tolerance for the threading on the E1 bodies is long enough to work with the Tactician head. It just needs to be made that way intentionally, so people don't have to buy multiple bodies to find one that works. I'm guessing the required additional length is ~0.2mm -- a small enough amount that all of your E-series bodies could be made that way without leaving an obvious gap when using a different head. That means you don't need to have two different versions of each E-series body.



[email protected] said:


> Also, are there any demand or interest for a 2 x AA E body or even a 1 x AA body (which will probably be limited to using a 14500 because no one has anything that runs on 1 x AA (1.2-1.5V)) ?


McGizmo makes E-series compatible heads that can run on 1xAA. However, they are all titanium. Obviously, this means you need to make titanium E-series bodies and switches to work with McGizmo heads.


----------



## Ozythemandias

Agree about Titanium bodies! And once you’re buying the stock, might as well run some Ti head off too...


----------



## fyrstormer

Okay, I was just teasing him.  Though I would totally buy a titanium E1E clone, just sayin'.


----------



## night.hoodie

[email protected] said:


> Also, are there any demand or interest for a 2 x AA E body or even a 1 x AA body (which will probably be limited to using a 14500 because no one has anything that runs on 1 x AA (1.2-1.5V)) ?



Demand and interest is. Vital Gear and Balrog bodies are tough to find, and I heard DSpeck is running out of UBHII (which is also 3xCR123A). Malkoff has a nice 2xAA with McClicky built-in, and fivemega has a 2x18500 with McClicky built-in. But when you want a 2xAA E Series body for running your own choice of tailcap and switch and 3V/7.4V incan, the bodies of E2L AA Outdoorsman and E2L AA DSS are both just right, but because the price usually necessarily includes an often unexpected $100+ SF LED head, so it's suddenly twice what expensive used to be. I was wondering if you would or could offer 2xAA, and 1xAA is a neat idea, Surefire had prototypes but never released the 1xAA E body.

And if you see the desire to run 2 eneloops, it will needs lamps, like a 2.4V/0.8A E series lamp would go along with it nicely... and why not a half-amp lamp tuned for one eneloop? It would be just too much... I couldn't bear it... an entire series of Lumens Factory E Series lamps for 1/2/3 Eneloops... NiMH can probably handle like 8A I bet (and maybe L91 also). So poor runtime aside, I wonder how bright a single eneloop incan can be with something like a 1V 8A bulb.


----------



## ma tumba

If a 1xAA should ever happen,I'll fit a solitaire bulb to Tad's e-series adapter. Gonna be a great midnight light I have always wanted to have.

A 2xAA version will host a Tad's adapter with a 3000k yuji 5mm LED which I now use in an e1e with a cr123. The beam quality is fantastic.

@[email protected] you have a pm from me


----------



## night.hoodie

The incan Solitaire was invented before NiMH secondaries were available, and never really changed, except for krypton to xenon bulbs, then to LED. But the point is though MagLite provided the first (surprisingly inexpensive and yet effective) keychain flashlight, the real reason it had to be that dim was that an alkaline could not deliver any current to speak of and an AAA had hardly any capacity. So the Solitaire lamp has extremely conservative specs, 1.35V and 0.32A iirc, to get the most out of a AAA alkaline. There is a lot of room here with brightness and runtime with what is possible between a lamp tuned for AAA alkaline running on AAA alkaline, and a lamp tuned for AAA alkaline running on AA NiMH. Wildly guessing here, but because the AA NiMH can handle vastly more current than AAA alkaline, without too much voltage sag or drastic hit on capacity, a lamp tuned for an AA NiMH driven by an AA NiMH should vastly outperform both AA NiMH on a lamp tuned for AAA alkaline and an AAA alkaline on a lamp tuned for AAA alkaline. A standard AA Eneloop has a minimum of 1.9Ah of capacity at 1A, so it seems like there's a lot of wasted potential not driving a more appropriate lamp designed around the NiMH chemistry ridiculously harder than Mag thought would be safe to do to any possible AAA cell in the 1970's. But I'd like to see a 1A 1V single cell incan lamp, or a 3A eneloop crusher. We really need NiMH lamps, no matter how great all the mag lamps can be.


----------



## ma tumba

night.hoodie said:


> The incan Solitaire was invented before NiMH secondaries were available, and never really changed, except for krypton to xenon bulbs, then to LED. But the point is though MagLite provided the first (surprisingly inexpensive and yet effective) keychain flashlight, the real reason it had to be that dim was that an alkaline could not deliver any current to speak of and an AAA had hardly any capacity. So the Solitaire lamp has extremely conservative specs, 1.35V and 0.32A iirc, to get the most out of a AAA alkaline. There is a lot of room here with brightness and runtime with what is possible between a lamp tuned for AAA alkaline running on AAA alkaline, and a lamp tuned for AAA alkaline running on AA NiMH. Wildly guessing here, but because the AA NiMH can handle vastly more current than AAA alkaline, without too much voltage sag or drastic hit on capacity, a lamp tuned for an AA NiMH driven by an AA NiMH should vastly outperform both AA NiMH on a lamp tuned for AAA alkaline and an AAA alkaline on a lamp tuned for AAA alkaline. A standard AA Eneloop has a minimum of 1.9Ah of capacity at 1A, so it seems like there's a lot of wasted potential not driving a more appropriate lamp designed around the NiMH chemistry ridiculously harder than Mag thought would be safe to do to any possible AAA cell in the 1970's. But I'd like to see a 1A 1V single cell incan lamp, or a 3A eneloop crusher. We really need NiMH lamps, no matter how great all the mag lamps can be.



I understand that and I'd love to see a bright 1.2v bulb, too, but I personally would like to have a moonlight incand light, in an aa e1 form factor, with a long run time. And I think that a slightly under-driven solitaire bulb is what I am going to try.


----------



## [email protected]

Wow, wasn't expecting so many replies in a day.

Well, than I guess I will go forward on the 2AA and 1AA.
I don't want to develop a 0.8V-4.5V driver myself as it would be quite difficult to design.
In my point of view, a driver like this would be needed to fully utilise the potential of a 1AA host.
This driver can be used on other products as well since it can use a real wide range of batteries.
I will look into it, but I am not promising anything regarding a new driver.

So it is good that there are already all the options from other companies to use on the 1AA as you guys mentioned.
The Lunar New Year Holidays has approached so prototyping has to wait a couple weeks.

Regarding to making an incandescent lamp for a 1AA setup:
It is easy for us to do, I would say a 1.2-1.3V on 1A lamp is something that is realistic.
But aside from incan hardcore fans and moonlight incan lovers, I don't see more than 20 or 30 guys buying this to be honest.

Regarding the extended threads topic:

I am not planning to make 2 versions.
I am planning to make 1 version where they all have the extended threads, my measurements show the E2T-MV's threads are about 0.4-0.5mm longer than the normal E Series.
Some prototypes were made and I found that indeed it need at least 0.4mm to activate all 8 heads every time and consistently. 
(I have 8 E2T-MV so my standard is set on all 8 heads has to activate or it is no good)
I tried 0.2mm extended threads, 0.3mm, 0.4mm, and 0.5mm.

So basically I have to extend the threads 0.4mm at least on the new batches that I make.
I do understand some will be annoyed with the small gap, but 2 versions on all configurations and colours is not really realistic for us.

Another route is maybe to offer these extended thread bodies in one configuration and one colour.
No need for 2 cell body because you can use the E2T-MV, that is how you got the head in the first place. (unless you got it 2nd hand somehow).
So a 1 cell body, in black and in the 3rd gen/3 flats/rounded flats (no idea why this body style has so many different names) configuration ONLY would probably be the way to go.
No extended thread 1AA, 2AA, 2 Cell, etc. No HA3 Natural version.
Just 1 cell 3rd gen body in HA3 black and that's it.

Possible to do it like that I think, so a E1T-MV body.
Would be great seller until Surefire makes one themselves.........which they might and I'll be screwed.
Definitely have to put more thought on this, LOL.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Toehead

Well, I'll be sure to buy your 3rd gen E1T-MV body before surefire makes their own. How long do you anticipate to get them fab'd and in stock?


----------



## [email protected]

At the absolute quickest speed, 3 months due to the Holidays.
I’ll see if I can make a small run, if it is not possible I might have to scrap the idea.


----------



## Tachead

[email protected] said:


> At the absolute quickest speed, 3 months due to the Holidays.
> I’ll see if I can make a small run, if it is not possible I might have to scrap the idea.


What about the E-Series heads Mark? Any rough idea on an ETA? I am chomping at the bit to get one(at least one) to throw on the E1 body, clip, and tailcap I just got from you. Thanks for all your hard work again and I am in on one of the single cell Tactician bodies too if they make it to market.


----------



## fyrstormer

[email protected] said:


> Regarding the extended threads topic:
> 
> I am not planning to make 2 versions.
> I am planning to make 1 version where they all have the extended threads, my measurements show the E2T-MV's threads are about 0.4-0.5mm longer than the normal E Series.
> Some prototypes were made and I found that indeed it need at least 0.4mm to activate all 8 heads every time and consistently.
> (I have 8 E2T-MV so my standard is set on all 8 heads has to activate or it is no good)
> I tried 0.2mm extended threads, 0.3mm, 0.4mm, and 0.5mm.
> 
> So basically I have to extend the threads 0.4mm at least on the new batches that I make.
> * I do understand some will be annoyed with the small gap*, but 2 versions on all configurations and colours is not really realistic for us.


Perhaps you could include a foam-rubber ring to fill the gap, for people who are bothered by it. I don't think anyone has ever made a gap-filling ring for Surefire heads before, so there might be a market for that product on its own too.


----------



## fyrstormer

Mark, I tried to send you an email at [email protected] and I got an "undelivered mail" reply.


----------



## knucklegary

^ Try _... edited ..._
Don't forget HK is half a day ahead of us ;-)


----------



## archimedes

If the above are not openly published eMail contact addresses, please remove.

In any case, please do not post these in formats easily scavenged by spammers.

In general, this info is best handled by PM. Thanks in advance for editing your posts to comply.


----------



## archimedes

Ok, I see the first eMail posted openly (in standard format) on their website.

I was not able to find the second eMail listed in public, so that was removed, per CPF policy.


----------



## fyrstormer

knucklegary said:


> ^ Try _... edited ..._
> Don't forget HK is half a day ahead of us ;-)


I know HK is half a day ahead of us, and that's fine, I don't expect immediate replies to emails I send to people anyway. My concern is not the time difference, my concern is my message was rejected and sent back to me by the email provider.


----------



## rrego

flatline said:


> Hmm...I know Malkoff has 1xAA and 2xAA MDC bodies that are E-series head compatible, but I have no idea how well they sell. There is an active group of folks here on the forums using M31 drop-ins in 2xAA and 1xAA configurations, but it's not clear to me if that translates to enough demand to support developing a new product.
> 
> For what it's worth, I just bought a Surefire G3 to use as a 2xAA host. Someone else made the minimum bid and then I placed my bid $1 above theirs and my bid stood until the auction closed 2 days later. For all the talk about G3s here on the forums, I was shocked that there wasn't more interest in actually purchasing a new G3 when it came up for auction.
> 
> I guess what I'm saying is to be careful. I'd hate for you to sink time and money into developing AA bodies only to discover that demand is satisfied by the first batch you offer.
> 
> BTW, I'm having a blast with the E1 and E2 bodies I got from you last year. Thank you for making these!
> 
> --flatline



Dang you flatline....!!!:nana: That was me on the G3!!! I saw it, bid and then continued with my day to day (single dad, full custody, two children, 2 and 6) and completely forgot about it :laughing:.

Congrats on the G3!


----------



## flatline

rrego said:


> Dang you flatline....!!!:nana: That was me on the G3!!! I saw it, bid and then continued with my day to day (single dad, full custody, two children, 2 and 6) and completely forgot about it :laughing:.
> 
> Congrats on the G3!




Sorry about that! 

I hope another G3 pops up soon for you to snag!

(PM sent with something you might be interested in)

--flatline


----------



## [email protected]

Hey Guys:

I done some testings on the E2T-MV, it appears that when operated using a single CR123 (3V) the output is very low.
I didn't bother to measure since it is a Monday for us and I am piled up to my nose in stuff to do, but I would say it is probably like 15 lumens or so.
This is on the "High" mode.

I turned the power supply back up and the output goes steadily back up.
At 3.7V the output is about 30% lower in output than the full output of the head.
So I would say it is still quite usable.

This means that if I make an E1 body with extended threads, it will only work with a 3.7V 16340 and with lower output.
It will still "work" with a CR123, but at significantly lower output (~15 lumens as I mentioned)
Wouldn't this be too limited?

What are your thoughts on this?


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## fyrstormer

I've been using mine that way, and it works well for my needs.


----------



## Tachead

Yep, I was aware of these shortcomings Mark and am still in on one if they happen.


----------



## Toehead

I'm in too, I currently use the same batteries in my flashlight. I have two 16340s that I rotate in my Elzetta aplha so I don't have any issues with that.


----------



## [email protected]

Noted.

Thanks for the input guys.
I'll look into the idea more and see how it goes.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Tachead

[email protected] said:


> Noted.
> 
> Thanks for the input guys.
> I'll look into the idea more and see how it goes.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark


Ok, thanks Mark your efforts are always appreciated👍.


----------



## night.hoodie

Interesting that the Tactician threads deviate ever so slightly from standard E. Intentional? Accident? Wish we could know the story on that one. I have notice the unpatented flat sides E2e's require the head very tight, and those older heads on other bodies must be very tight. Would it not be just as easy or just as difficult for Tactician users that want to use other E bodies to instead find a correcting mod for the Tactician head to ensure function with any E body? Actually... wouldn't that (discovering the Tactician head mod, publishing it and executing it) make a lot more sense than dispatching Mark to splitting the atom and having a LF E body that is ever so slightly adjusted from standard E only to accomodate a Tactician head? It's the "what could possibly go wrong?" aspect that has not been addressed that has me concerned.

I know E series bodies have or may have deviated slightly from run to run, model to model... wish there was an E lexicon discussing every E (SF and beyond) to extreme detail, every mod, every component, history with pics, hardbound coffee-table format in full color and letter-press, E2e cleverly included in the binding.


----------



## bykfixer

+2 on the 1xAA please.


----------



## Tachead

night.hoodie said:


> wish there was an E lexicon discussing every E (SF and beyond) to extreme detail, every mod, every component, history with pics, hardbound coffee-table format in full color and letter-press, E2e cleverly included in the binding.



I would buy that in a second. Hint, hint SF lol.


----------



## night.hoodie

2xAA is a must, 1xAA is just pretty neat, but perhaps should also accomodate 2xCR2, and 2xAA also fit 3xCR123A.

On bezels, whine from email continued here. I want to run FM1794 in E with as little fuss as possible, and found another halogen I would like to run, GH159. On the off chance any more G2ish halogen bipins are revealed, I'll probably want to run them, too. Trouble is, these lamps are too tall. 

Though there are some ways to mitigate, to actually fix the issue, the head's bezel could be replaced with a longer bezel (along with some internal clever possibly Delrin ring to keep o-ring and lens tight). 

Halogen bezel could be sold separately, not everyone wants to run halogen in E, but I have a feeling there are enough that it would make sense to have an optional deeper bezel available for longer halogen lamps, sans any hint of crenellations, of course (halogen lamps are fragile and expensive, so using them as a core for some kind of medieval mace-type weapon is ill-advised, especially when a mace does a better job and they still make those).


----------



## Roger Sully

Interestingly enough when I first got my Tactician I used it on the LF body and the high setting worked. I carried it for a few days like that and then went back to the SF 2 cell body. When I tried it back on the LF body I can now only get the low setting......


----------



## fyrstormer

night.hoodie said:


> Interesting that the Tactician threads deviate ever so slightly from standard E. Intentional? Accident? Wish we could know the story on that one. I have notice the unpatented flat sides E2e's require the head very tight, and those older heads on other bodies must be very tight. Would it not be just as easy or just as difficult for Tactician users that want to use other E bodies to instead find a correcting mod for the Tactician head to ensure function with any E body? Actually... wouldn't that (discovering the Tactician head mod, publishing it and executing it) make a lot more sense than dispatching Mark to splitting the atom and having a LF E body that is ever so slightly adjusted from standard E only to accomodate a Tactician head? It's the "what could possibly go wrong?" aspect that has not been addressed that has me concerned.
> 
> I know E series bodies have or may have deviated slightly from run to run, model to model... wish there was an E lexicon discussing every E (SF and beyond) to extreme detail, every mod, every component, history with pics, hardbound coffee-table format in full color and letter-press, E2e cleverly included in the binding.


It is absolutely intentional. The shoulder that the head bottoms-out against is trimmed back slightly on the Tactician body, so the O-ring actually sits slightly forward of the shoulder unlike on a normal E-series body. That said, Tactician-compatible bodies don't _need_ to be designed exactly that way; it could just as easily have normal E-series threads that are half a millimeter longer than spec.


----------



## fyrstormer

Roger Sully said:


> Interestingly enough when I first got my Tactician I used it on the LF body and the high setting worked. I carried it for a few days like that and then went back to the SF 2 cell body. When I tried it back on the LF body I can now only get the low setting......


Try cleaning any lint off the mating surfaces on the front of the body and the back of the head. Even that tiny bit of gunk could prevent the head from bottoming-out as far as it needs to.

This, of course, is why Surefire leaves a gap between the head and the body on their lights, so a bit of dirt won't keep the head from contacting the body properly.


----------



## ma tumba

One thing that I would suggest for consideration is an aleph head, similar to what Dafabricata made out of a genuine incand e-series bezel. 

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ries-Mule-Accepts-McGizmo-Aleph-light-engines


----------



## [email protected]

fyrstormer said:


> It is absolutely intentional. The shoulder that the head bottoms-out against is trimmed back slightly on the Tactician body, so the O-ring actually sits slightly forward of the shoulder unlike on a normal E-series body. That said, Tactician-compatible bodies don't _need_ to be designed exactly that way; it could just as easily have normal E-series threads that are half a millimeter longer than spec.



I agree, it is absolutely intentional on Surefire's part.
As I mentioned to get the High/Low to work 100% flawlessly, at least 0.4mm is needed.
So in order to make a good and dependable body for the E2T-MV head a dedicated body with extended threads is needed.

All in all, it is not difficult to make but the market is the concern here.

Someone will need to have the E2T-MV to begin with.
This same someone will be one who don't mind to use 16340 rechargeables.
This person will also want a shorter light and don't mind the 30% drop in output.

So you see, a lot of "ifs" here. LOL.


Cheers.


Mark


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> One thing that I would suggest for consideration is an aleph head, similar to what Dafabricata made out of a genuine incand e-series bezel.
> 
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ries-Mule-Accepts-McGizmo-Aleph-light-engines



Hmm, interesting.
Really nice job and shortened the light even further, impressive.

Definately something to consider.

Thanks, ma tumba.


----------



## Tachead

[email protected] said:


> I agree, it is absolutely intentional on Surefire's part.
> As I mentioned to get the High/Low to work 100% flawlessly, at least 0.4mm is needed.
> So in order to make a good and dependable body for the E2T-MV head a dedicated body with extended threads is needed.
> 
> All in all, it is not difficult to make but the market is the concern here.
> 
> Someone will need to have the E2T-MV to begin with.
> This same someone will be one who don't mind to use 16340 rechargeables.
> This person will also want a shorter light and don't mind the 30% drop in output.
> 
> So you see, a lot of "ifs" here. LOL.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> Mark


Yes, this is definitely a somewhat niche item. What kind of run size are you looking at to make this worth it? Would a pre-order of some kind be an idea?

I have an alternate idea as well. What if you made a Tactician head with the same function(tight is high/loose is low with no PWM on either mode), that works on standard E-bodies, but, offered a nicer emitter selection with higher CRI and neutral white and maybe potted the electronics so it offered the same or better shock resistance to the stock SF head. I think there may be quite a few people interested in that. I for one would take 2 of those(one 1 cell and one 2 cell). Just an idea...


----------



## Toehead

That's a great idea too Tachead, especially if if the lumen output is similar, or slightly lower, with standard one CR123. I like the idea of potted electronics and a warm tone. One of the main draws for me if the MV beam, do you have anything similar to MaxVision? The only bad thing is it doesn't help people that already have an E2T-MV and I don't know anything about design and manufacturing but I suspect the body project is a probably easier than the head...considering the body has already been designed and tested.


----------



## fyrstormer

[email protected] said:


> I agree, it is absolutely intentional on Surefire's part.
> As I mentioned to get the High/Low to work 100% flawlessly, at least 0.4mm is needed.
> So in order to make a good and dependable body for the E2T-MV head a dedicated body with extended threads is needed.
> 
> All in all, it is not difficult to make but the market is the concern here.
> 
> Someone will need to have the E2T-MV to begin with.
> This same someone will be one who don't mind to use 16340 rechargeables.
> This person will also want a shorter light and don't mind the 30% drop in output.
> 
> So you see, a lot of "ifs" here. LOL.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> Mark


What about making a 0.5mm circular metal shim that can fit into the Tactician head, so a normal E-series body will be able to reliably touch the high-mode contact in the Tactician head? A circular metal shim would cost almost nothing.


----------



## Mikeg23

fyrstormer said:


> What about making a 0.5mm circular metal shim....



Overready has their beryllium copper spring washer.


----------



## fyrstormer

The shim I'm thinking of would need to be perfectly flat, and sized to fit snugly around the plastic insulator inside the back of the Tactician head. This would ensure it doesn't fall out or accidentally bridge the gap between the high-mode contact and the electrically-conductive head threads.


----------



## bykfixer

Re the 1xAA , in my case I outfitted my Klarus P1A with a neutral tint Malkoff 3 speed engine from the MDC so I have the Klarus hi/lo head collecting dust. It would be super cool to put that head with a hi/lo ring on a Lumens Factory body. 

Yup, the P1a was E compatible at the business end. 






And if you did 1aa compatible 'bulbs' for E heads, I'd be all over those too.


----------



## [email protected]

fyrstormer said:


> The shim I'm thinking of would need to be perfectly flat, and sized to fit snugly around the plastic insulator inside the back of the Tactician head. This would ensure it doesn't fall out or accidentally bridge the gap between the high-mode contact and the electrically-conductive head threads.



Great idea, I'll look into this when I come back from the Holidays.


----------



## [email protected]

Tachead said:


> Yes, this is definitely a somewhat niche item. What kind of run size are you looking at to make this worth it? Would a pre-order of some kind be an idea?



Never liked taking someone's money without having the product, so we haven't done "Pre-orderd" in the past 13 years that we have been in business. 

Run size? 30 max probably.

Can't really offer a tactician twist operated head because of patents and such, but I will look into the possibility of making something similar in the future.


----------



## knucklegary

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!🐖


----------



## Tachead

[email protected] said:


> Never liked taking someone's money without having the product, so we haven't done "Pre-orderd" in the past 13 years that we have been in business.
> 
> Run size? 30 max probably.
> 
> Can't really offer a tactician twist operated head because of patents and such, but I will look into the possibility of making something similar in the future.



Yeah, I am not a huge fan of the pre-order sales model either. I just thought I would bring it up as a possible way to make a small run happen.

I was just wondering how many 1 cell Tactician bodies you would have to make to make it worth it. 

Patents? I thought other countries aren't bound by US patent laws?


----------



## Tachead

Another idea Mark...

A lot of people all over the internet want a 2-way clip that fits the Tactician so they can carry bezel down. I think if you made one that fits as well as the stock clip you would make a killing(aka they would sell very well). I for one will take 2 of them the day they appear on your site👍.


----------



## Nephron44

Tachead said:


> Another idea Mark...
> 
> A lot of people all over the internet want a 2-way clip that fits the Tactician so they can carry bezel down. I think if you made one that fits as well as the stock clip you would make a killing(aka they would sell very well). I for one will take 2 of them the day they appear on your site[emoji106].



I have a pretty good hack for the clip in another thread, just FYI


----------



## Tachead

Nephron44 said:


> I have a pretty good hack for the clip in another thread, just FYI


Yeah, I saw it the other day(good idea, thanks👍) and had already thought of a few ways to mod it including having my buddy machine a delrin shim but, decided I want a proper fitting factory or aftermarket solution or I will just run the stock one(it doesn't bother me much as I have the EDCL1-T for bezel down carry). I honestly think a lot of people would buy one if one were available and people were informed about it.


----------



## [email protected]

Tachead said:


> Another idea Mark...
> 
> A lot of people all over the internet want a 2-way clip that fits the Tactician so they can carry bezel down. I think if you made one that fits as well as the stock clip you would make a killing(aka they would sell very well). I for one will take 2 of them the day they appear on your site.



I can only make 1 version of the 2 way for the tactician if I decide to make them.
So I guess it is the long version 2 way clip?

It is quite expensive to make clips because they are all stamped so the MOQ is very high.
So if I can get away with a delrin shim of some sort, it would be way better and way cheaper.


----------



## Tachead

[email protected] said:


> I can only make 1 version of the 2 way for the tactician if I decide to make them.
> So I guess it is the long version 2 way clip?
> 
> It is quite expensive to make clips because they are all stamped so the MOQ is very high.
> So if I can get away with a delrin shim of some sort, it would be way better and way cheaper.



Yeah, I think the long 2-way would sell best for you as there are quite a few users on various forums looking for one for their stock Tactician's and I believe most want reasonably deep carry. 

Yeah, I can imagine the minimum order quantity is quite high and the QPQ process can't be cheap either. Although a new clip would obviously be the nicest option, I think people would still be happy with some kind of shim to make the current one work as long as it offers a tight fit with no play. 

Thanks for being open to ideas Mark. It is awesome having someone making high quality aftermarket parts for these lights and a lot of us really appreciate it👍.


----------



## Dave D

Hi Mark,

I saw the below titanium E series body on the PK thread and thought of you!!


----------



## ma tumba

Dave D said:


> Hi Mark,
> 
> I saw the below titanium E series body on the PK thread and thought of you!!



Dave, where exactly did you find this?


----------



## Tachead

ma tumba said:


> Dave, where exactly did you find this?


It's a pic posted of Paul Kim's personal light. It was posted by Bykfixer in the PKDL products thread in the flashlight collecting sub but, has also been shown on Facebook. It is a one off titanium E1 made by Foster Brothers and someone said they saw a Nichia 219 in it.


----------



## id30209

You can find more info here:

http://www.forstersun.com/2018/10/ti-e-job-done/#more-671


----------



## Dave D

id30209 said:


> You can find more info here:
> 
> http://www.forstersun.com/2018/10/ti-e-job-done/#more-671



I'm liking the Titanium E2!!!! :thumbsup:


----------



## ma tumba

Thanx, gentlemen. Somehow, I don't dig this Ti version. I think sf lights have been so much associated with HA that considerable deviations just look wrong


----------



## thermal guy

Oh my!!!!! Now those are nice!


----------



## bykfixer

Now, to me it would be as simple as this:
Next batch that goes through the lathe, set about 10 off to the side before the coating stage. Coat the rest. 
At the polishing stage put the coated and raw ones in the line and polish like normal.
Post on the site that X are available in polished alluminum. 

They'd have a vintage nickel plated look about them without the weight of titanium too.

Just a thought.


----------



## scout24

Flat sided "E1e' with Z52 profile tailcap and 2 way clip? Yes, please...


----------



## Toehead

Instead of taking pre-orders you could start a list of people interested to see if you get close to the 30 mark.


----------



## scout24

If someone would care to start a thread on the Ti E lights, I think there would be sufficient interest to keep it going. Let's get back to Lumensfactory goodness here!  (I'm guilty of the off-topic, too...)


----------



## tonywalker23

I saw some post on page 2 and 4 of this thread about natural anadozed color bodies. Has there been any update to this? Would love to have a NA e1e size body.


----------



## [email protected]

tonywalker23 said:


> I saw some post on page 2 and 4 of this thread about natural anadozed color bodies. Has there been any update to this? Would love to have a NA e1e size body.



Yup, I finally got the shade down somewhat to my liking.
HA3 Natural bodies, heads and tailcaps will be available next quarter.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## tonywalker23

Can we get a sneak peak?



[email protected] said:


> Yup, I finally got the shade down somewhat to my liking.
> HA3 Natural bodies, heads and tailcaps will be available next quarter.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark


----------



## cubebike

Mark. 
Glad to hear you have good progress. It would be great if you could share pics of the prototypes


----------



## InvisibleFrodo

bykfixer said:


> Now, to me it would be as simple as this:
> Next batch that goes through the lathe, set about 10 off to the side before the coating stage. Coat the rest.
> At the polishing stage put the coated and raw ones in the line and polish like normal.
> Post on the site that X are available in polished alluminum.
> 
> They'd have a vintage nickel plated look about them without the weight of titanium too.
> 
> Just a thought.



Why couldn’t they actually be nickel plated?

Just a thought.


----------



## archimedes

InvisibleFrodo said:


> Why couldn’t they actually be nickel plated?
> 
> Just a thought.


EN-plating is great, I have an AMC Mule with that ... really nice finish


----------



## Rubicon1000

I bought a black single cell from lumens factory and I'm running a kl4 on an rcr16340 and I think it's my favorite light right now. 
I have an older e2d that has a lumens factory 6-9 volt led drop in and I really like the beam from this setup. I can't post pics yet but it's a really nice looking little light. I'll be buying a 2 cell black for one of my spare black kl4 heads and a scout tailcap running on sanyo 16650's.


----------



## Tachead

[email protected] said:


> Yup, I finally got the shade down somewhat to my liking.
> HA3 Natural bodies, heads and tailcaps will be available next quarter.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark


Nice, can't wait. What about black heads, any ETA on those?


----------



## LiftdT4R

Tachead said:


> Nice, can't wait. What about black heads, any ETA on those?



Lol, I've been waiting and waiting too! I'm in for at least 2!


----------



## Tachead

LiftdT4R said:


> Lol, I've been waiting and waiting too! I'm in for at least 2!


Yeah, hopefully first quarter for the black ones🤞.


----------



## [email protected]

Tachead said:


> Nice, can't wait. What about black heads, any ETA on those?



You mean the incan heads?
They will be made in both HA3 Natural and HA3 Black now that we finally got that HA3 Natural shade down.
It was the original plan all along actually.
ETA next quarter hopefully, this is on the top priority of our list.
I am waiting on the last plating samples on the reflectors and it will be ready for production.
If nothing screws me over during production, then next quarter would be it for this project.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Rubicon1000 said:


> I bought a black single cell from lumens factory and I'm running a kl4 on an rcr16340 and I think it's my favorite light right now.
> I have an older e2d that has a lumens factory 6-9 volt led drop in and I really like the beam from this setup. I can't post pics yet but it's a really nice looking little light. I'll be buying a 2 cell black for one of my spare black kl4 heads and a scout tailcap running on sanyo 16650's.



Thank you for your support, Rubicon1000.
I am happy to hear you liked our products.


----------



## Tachead

[email protected] said:


> You mean the incan heads?
> They will be made in both HA3 Natural and HA3 Black now that we finally got that HA3 Natural shade down.
> It was the original plan all along actually.
> ETA next quarter hopefully, this is on the top priority of our list.
> I am waiting on the last plating samples on the reflectors and it will be ready for production.
> If nothing screws me over during production, then next quarter would be it for this project.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Yes, the incan heads. Awesome, I will keep an eye on your site, thanks Mark👍.


----------



## Rubicon1000

[email protected] said:


> Thank you for your support, Rubicon1000.
> I am happy to hear you liked our products.



You're welcome Mark, I'm a lumens factory junkie lol. I also have a 3 mode in my xm962 and quite a few others from you. Keep up the great work you guys are awesome.


----------



## Rubicon1000

This is the e2d with a lumens factory 6-9 volt led, and it's little brother is a e1 body from lumens factory with a kl4 head and the color matched perfectly. Can't wait for the new incans to be ready. Dan


----------



## [email protected]

Awesome lights, Dan.
Thank you for sharing.

I see that you are using the Defender E2D and also a defender style Z68 tailcap on the E1 body.
Is there a reason why you like the defender setup more than the normal flat or crenellated bezel and Z57 or flat Z68 tailcap?

I see a lot of guys refering them to be "pocket shredders", but I also see a lot of love for them from different users as well.
So I would like to hear more opinions on why people choose the setups they choose.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## thermal guy

I can’t speak for others but I prefer the Defender E2D tail. It has them big ears that can smash something as a last ditch. And very easy to attach a landyard. And of course looks way cool


----------



## Mikeg23

I never did care for the defender lights but recently got a scout tail cap and have been happy with it.


----------



## bykfixer

Pentagon had a novel approach to the pocket shredder bezel.





A retractable set of blades whereby rotating the bezel a near full rotation counter-clockwise caused the blades to protrude.





Rotate the other way for pocket friendly bezel down carry.


----------



## ma tumba

bykfixer said:


> Pentagon had a novel approach to the pocket shredder bezel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A retractable set of blades whereby rotating the bezel a near full rotation counter-clockwise caused the blades to protrude.



A very special kind of a zoomie, lol.


----------



## bykfixer

Even had instructions.




:thinking:


----------



## Rubicon1000

Mark , here's the same light with the z68. I switch them around every now and then. Dan


----------



## Tachead

And, here is one of your 1-cell bodies running a Malkoff E-Series Tricap since we are talking about Defender style tailcaps...





I personally like choices. Sometimes I prefer the, quick and easy, unobstructed press of a Z52 but, sometimes I like the ability to tailstand that these shrouded(in one way or another) tailcaps offer.


----------



## Rubicon1000

Tachead said:


> And, here is one of your 1-cell bodies running a Malkoff E-Series Tricap since we are talking about Defender style tailcaps...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I personally like choices. Sometimes I prefer the, quick and easy, unobstructed press of a Z52 but, sometimes I like the ability to tailstand that these shrouded(in one way or another) tailcaps offer.


That is one sweet looking light


----------



## Tachead

Rubicon1000 said:


> That is one sweet looking light


Thank you sir👍. I might have played Lego but, the real credit goes to Mark and Gene, keep up the good work guys👍.


----------



## [email protected]

Hi Guys,

I made some prototypes of the 2 way clips in Titanium, just wondering if there would be interest if they become a reality.

What about the 1 way long and short clips? 
And the M2T-MV Tactician style clips, would you guys be interested in Titanium versions for these as well?


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

Mark, are you going to offer ti hosts? Or you just see some advantage of ti clips alone?


----------



## thermal guy

TI clips? I’d grab a few.


----------



## id30209

Yes please, 2-way, 1 short, 1 long


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Mark, are you going to offer ti hosts? Or you just see some advantage of ti clips alone?



Just wanted to explore the possibilities and try to bring more for the E Series Fans out there.
And of course if I do make Ti host, Ti clips are a must so either way I wanted see how you guys like them.

Ti clips do have it's advantages, mainly reduced weight, rigidity and corrosion resistance.
But my main goal is to offer more options for E Series and making it more versatile and fun to lego.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## thermal guy

Ti hosts would be awesome. You guys do great work and love your Dropins. Got a incandescent 90 lumens 3.7 volt on its way. What sucks is I think the host for it will be here before it comes in 😭


----------



## cubebike

Hi Mark

i am in for the ti clips. The tactician clip is good one imo. And if you gonna to make Ti host, I definitely will get some. Well done 
Mark, and i am looking forward for the E series head and 3 mode E series dropin 




[email protected] said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I made some prototypes of the 2 way clips in Titanium, just wondering if there would be interest if they become a reality.
> 
> What about the 1 way long and short clips?
> And the M2T-MV Tactician style clips, would you guys be interested in Titanium versions for these as well?
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark


----------



## Rubicon1000

This is becoming one of my favorites. It's a lumens factory e1 with a kx2c head and a e1b tail cap. It has pretty good runtime on a 16340.


----------



## [email protected]

Rubicon1000 said:


> This is becoming one of my favorites. It's a lumens factory e1 with a kx2c head and a e1b tail cap. It has pretty good runtime on a 16340.



Nice setup Rubicon. 
I don't own an e1b myself, I didn't know the the tailcap would blend in that well.
Glad you liked the body.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

Just some followup thoughts. I think eXe series are iconic lights with a number of cons, but we love them as they are, so I would leave them as they are: anodized aluminum, with dark steel clips. There are plenty of Ti lights which have better specs, are more flexible, etc. A $500 e1 is irrelevant, imho


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Just some followup thoughts. I think eXe series are iconic lights with a number of cons, but we love them as they are, so I would leave them as they are: anodized aluminum, with dark steel clips. There are plenty of Ti lights which have better specs, are more flexible, etc. A $500 e1 is irrelevant, imho



True.
I wouldn't mind making a few Ti host in limited numbers, but the cost are quite high though so that is the reason I have not tackle it.
I was actually looking into it over 2 years ago and have still not gone with it due to the high cost.
Have been talking with the supplier about the cost on and off since then and I still can't get a workable cost to start the project. 

But I am always interested in bringing more to the table, so suggestions are welcome. 
No guarantee that I am going to make it tho.


----------



## InvisibleFrodo

Whenever the incandescent style e series heads come available, it would be really cool if the bezels where sold separately so those who own original Surefire lights can switch over to a 7075 bezel or maybe even a stainless bezel for maximum drop protection...


----------



## thermal guy

InvisibleFrodo said:


> Whenever the incandescent style e series heads come available, it would be really cool if the bezels where sold separately so those who own original Surefire lights can switch over to a 7075 bezel or maybe even a stainless bezel for maximum drop protection...



You mean bezel rings? Didn’t know you could get different ones.


----------



## InvisibleFrodo

I mean the head is a two piece assembly, so if the piece furthest forward were to be machined of stainless steel instead of aluminum I think that would be awesome. And they would already have all the dimensions worked out, so it’s a matter of using an alternative material.


----------



## thermal guy

Oh Ok so right now does anyone make a different bezel ring for E series head?


----------



## archimedes

thermal guy said:


> Oh Ok so right now does anyone make a different bezel ring for E series head?


I think @Tana made a few


----------



## thermal guy

Never thought of doing that to my e series but that would look cool.


----------



## archimedes

Here's the link ...

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-mod-service&p=4330936&viewfull=1#post4330936


----------



## thermal guy

Thanks arch. Very nice


----------



## archimedes

thermal guy said:


> Thanks arch. Very nice


Agreed


----------



## Eric242

thermal guy said:


> Oh Ok so right now does anyone make a different bezel ring for E series head?



altermann has some available, here as well as in the bay.


----------



## ma tumba

Mark, will it fundamentally change the e1 body if you increase its diameter to accommodate 18350? Some people including Tana can bore even the stock body for 18350, so we are talking 0.5mm here, right? Also if the internal diameter is increased would a cr123 still sit ok just by means of the spring(s)?


----------



## ma tumba

Also are you aware of these bodies? https://ogazent.com/store/surefire-...-twisty-tube-v3-aleph-or-e-series-compatible/


----------



## [email protected]

InvisibleFrodo said:


> I mean the head is a two piece assembly, so if the piece furthest forward were to be machined of stainless steel instead of aluminum I think that would be awesome. And they would already have all the dimensions worked out, so it’s a matter of using an alternative material.



Yes, it is and of course it will have removable bezels.
We will be offering bezels in the following options for now:

1. Flat, QPQ Black Stainless Steel
2. Cren, QPQ Black Stainless Steel
3. Defender, QPQ Black Stainless Steel
4. Flat, Sandblasted Stainless Steel
5. Cren, Sandblasted Black Stainless Steel
6. Defender, Sandblasted Black Stainless Steel

Titanium options MIGHT be available in very limited quantities.

The bezel that comes with the incan head unit is planned to be 7075-T6 anodised in HA3 Natural or HA3 Flat Black in Cren or Flat.
But I am considering putting QPQ Black Cren or Flat bezels on the head and not making any aluminum bezels.
It will blend in with the HA3 Black heads, but it will not blend in on the HA3 Naturals.
It looks good on the HA3 Naturals I think, but some customers might prefer the all Grey look.
Not to mention added cost of manufacture if I do that.

We'll see how it goes.

The project is progressing, but I still have a few bumps to overcome.
I am happy to tell you guys the reflector problem has been solved, after 8 tries I got the reflector down the way I want it.
Still got some dimension issues to overcome, but the hardest part (reflector) is done.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## id30209

Woohooo!!! ^^^^
Great job and awesome combo offering!
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Mark, will it fundamentally change the e1 body if you increase its diameter to accommodate 18350? Some people including Tana can bore even the stock body for 18350, so we are talking 0.5mm here, right? Also if the internal diameter is increased would a cr123 still sit ok just by means of the spring(s)?



It is an age old question and I think I have answered it quite a few times before.
I have looked into it before and thought the threads are too thin for me to feel comfortable.
But I will look into this further.


As to your second question:
The CR123 will sit okay, but I would recommend making a delrin sleeve to hold the batteries in place when using CR123 on bored bodies.


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Also are you aware of these bodies? https://ogazent.com/store/surefire-...-twisty-tube-v3-aleph-or-e-series-compatible/



No, I haven't.
Looks interesting, very compact and simple.

I assume the maker to be a very knowledgeable machinist, he made it very compact as to save materials and no switch which saves cost.
The design also use the easiest machining techniques to save labour which further save on the cost.
This way he could make a product that is $150 which is an acceptable price for a E Series Titanium body.
Very smart design. 

I personally don't really like twist operations, but I guess it is down to personal preference.


----------



## LiftdT4R

Awesome awesome!!! Can't wait for these heads and that's very exciting about the bezels. I'll be putting in an order for at least 2 and a bunch of other stuff from ya!


----------



## Rjkpsmith

I know that this might be a long shot, but what are the chances of making some of these bodies available in a 1 x 16500/17500 format? I think that would be a great form factor for a lot of folks, just a bit easier to grasp than an E1e but not too long. Just throwing it out there, I would love to hear others thoughts on this. 

BTW, major Kudos to LumensFactory for undertaking this project, the E series is a timeless design which should never go out of production. (IMHO)


----------



## Dave D

Rjkpsmith said:


> I know that this might be a long shot, but what are the chances of making some of these bodies available in a 1 x 16500/17500 format? I would love to hear others thoughts on this)



I would be keen to get at least one 17500 E body!


----------



## [email protected]

Rjkpsmith said:


> I know that this might be a long shot, but what are the chances of making some of these bodies available in a 1 x 16500/17500 format? I think that would be a great form factor for a lot of folks, just a bit easier to grasp than an E1e but not too long. Just throwing it out there, I would love to hear others thoughts on this.
> 
> BTW, major Kudos to LumensFactory for undertaking this project, the E series is a timeless design which should never go out of production. (IMHO)




Thank you for your support.

I have made plans to make a 14500 body, so a 16500 or 17500 version is of course possible.
Maybe make them all 17500 or 18500 capable and make some battery tubes for 16500 or 14500.
But then again I understand some users don't like to use battery tubes.
So it is something I need to consider.
Making 14500, 16500, 17500 and 18500 is 4 versions which I will definitely NOT do because it is too many variations to stock.
Most likely a 14500 and 18500 maybe. (If I don't kill the threads with a 18.6 tube, if I kill the threads it will most likely be 17500)

I am not sure for now, but I am 100% going to do the 14500 body.

Cheers.


----------



## id30209

14500 would be great![emoji106][emoji106]


----------



## thermal guy

Love the fact that lumens Factory works with there group of people!!


----------



## Dave D

I will have a 17500/18500 when you bring them out.


----------



## Jose Marin

[email protected] said:


> 18500 maybe. (If I don't kill the threads with a 18.6 tube



I am no machinist but ive alwaysed wondered about the 18mm bored e bodies. Ive always heard that the aluminum bodies are hit or miss and when they are successful they are delicate. Ive seen the variants from 5mega and malkoff that use adapeters in between the head and body but the compact e style is lost. Would using a material like stainless steel be better off for keeping the e series body size but having the stronger threads when shaved down so thin compared to aluminum? Thanks Mark


----------



## ma tumba

I am not sure I understand the need for a 14500 body. To me, this is strictly for a 1.5V AA battery, the 3.7V option being an exotic thing for showing off an otherwise 1.5v light, in turbo mode. 

How many 1.5V light engines do we have that fit an e-series compatible head?

I would love to see a 3x 16350 or 3x 18350 body (if it possible at all) which would also take 2x AA cells with a tube.


----------



## archimedes

Jose Marin said:


> .... Would using a material like stainless steel be better off for keeping the e series body size but having the stronger threads when shaved down so thin compared to aluminum? ....



Yes, this has been done already in steel, I believe.



ma tumba said:


> .... How many 1.5V light engines do we have that fit an e-series compatible head?



Converters by McGizmo and Tana immediately come to mind, there may be others.



ma tumba said:


> .... I would love to see a 3x 16350 or 3x 18350 body (if it possible at all) which would also take 2x AA cells with a tube.



I think there was a "balrog E3" (E-series compatible, 3x16340) host tube done years ago.


----------



## ma tumba

archimedes said:


> Yes, this has been done already in steel, I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> Converters by McGizmo and Tana immediately come to mind, there may be others.
> 
> 
> 
> I think there was a "balrog E3" (E-series compatible, 3x16340) host tube done years ago.



Thanks archimedes, I did not know about the balrog, it had happened before I joined the forum, but this seems to be it. And I have never seen one for sale, so the modern version would be nice to have


----------



## novice

archimedes said:


> I think there was a "balrog E3" (E-series compatible, 3x16340) host tube done years ago.



I wouldn't mind having a modern E.3 version, either.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?51238-Balrog-bodies-(BE1-BE1-5-BE2-BE3-amp-BE4)


----------



## archimedes

ma tumba said:


> Thanks archimedes, I did not know about the balrog, it had happened before I joined the forum, but this seems to be it. And I have never seen one for sale, so the modern version would be nice to have



Yes, they were very nice indeed.

I think "cubebike" also did some similar, much later, but I don't specifically recall any as long as the balrog E3 (but I could be mistaken on that)

You may also want to check out the "dspeck UBH" too ....


----------



## cubebike

O. Since my name popped up here, so let me explain a bit. Yes I did manage to have few E3 host few years ago, and it was also compatible with 2 AA cell for E head and tail setup. Unfortunately, the machinist did not make any of the host afterward and I didn't have anything left either. I remembered I used it mainly on 2AA (enelop) with KL1 head. 



archimedes said:


> Yes, they were very nice indeed.
> 
> I think "cubebike" also did some similar, much later, but I don't specifically recall any as long as the balrog E3 (but I could be mistaken on that)
> 
> You may also want to check out the "dspeck UBH" too ....


----------



## archimedes

Thanks for the additional details @cubebike !


----------



## night.hoodie

[email protected] said:


> Yes, it is and of course it will have removable bezels.
> We will be offering bezels in the following options for now:...



I had thought replacement Al bezels in natural and black would be an ideal seller, since some like the purity of all one metal for concerns of galling... but just occurred to me, I believe the Surefire way, their original intent, was for consumers to toss the entire head and replace. Regardless of Al bezels, can not hardly wait for new replacement Elite heads... smooth ones, please. You all know my beliefs that crenellations are vanity, and are never used for their intended purpose (and we should be thankful for that! how horrible!). Smooth are old-school, and many old flat-sides got dropped with dings and bites out of them. They are not all that easy to find with the smooth bezel, but the crenellated variety are as close to common as E-Series gets. Option for smooth Al natural/black bezels please.



ma tumba said:


> I am not sure I understand the need for a 14500 body. To me, this is strictly for a 1.5V AA battery, the 3.7V option being an exotic thing for showing off an otherwise 1.5v light, in turbo mode.



Agreed, but if a custom body with built-in mcclicky, ala AA Malkoff, and the fit was a lil' wider, 15500, the result would be a light considerably more compact than E2e, and just as bright on 2xCR2 cells (reduced runtime), yet would still accept AA/14500. Now I have written that out... back to entirely agreeing with you. An E body for AA fills such a limited-ideal-use-case gap, it becomes a boutique item. Perhaps that's why SF developed them, and there's prototypes out there, but they never released and sold them. Also, now 18350's have 1100mAh, they blow away 14500's 650mAh capacity in a shorter form factor, if your light use is not so rough that thinner threads in 18350 body would not often break. I must confess, I broke the threads in an 18mm E tube by dropping the light accidentally on concrete a few times in a row in rapid succession. No story, just clumsy.


----------



## [email protected]

Yes, AL natural/black in crenellated or flat comes standard on the heads.
The project is 90% complete, should be wrapping it up in a week or two and production can begin.

Hmm, good point on the 14500 body.
I have been thinking about the 1 x AA and 2 x AA bodies lately.

The 2 x AA is basically the same length as a 3 cell, so if I make it a 18xxx capable light then it could use a lot of battery setups.
Problem lies with battery rattles when using CR123 or 2 x AA or 2 x 14500 on a 18xxx light.

Same with the 1 x AA, making it 18500 capable would open up possibilities for many battery setups.
Definitely something I need to consider.


----------



## ma tumba

Mark, somebody has tried this as an AA to 17 sleeve was very happy. So you dont need to make the sleeves, just get some of these tubes
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/322886605682


Отправлено с моего iPhone используя Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Mark, somebody has tried this as an AA to 17 sleeve was very happy. So you dont need to make the sleeves, just get some of these tubes
> https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/322886605682



Oh nice, these looks pretty nice.
Awesome stuff.

Thanks Ma Tumba


----------



## Dave D

[email protected] said:


> Oh nice, these looks pretty nice.
> Awesome stuff.
> 
> Thanks Ma Tumba



I'm the 'somebody'! LOL

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?458238-Carbon-Fibre-AA-17mm-battery-sleeves


----------



## ma tumba

Sorry Dave 
Have bookmarked the link but not your original post


Отправлено с моего iPhone используя Tapatalk


----------



## knucklegary

Dave D said:


> I'm the 'somebody'! LOL
> 
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?458238-Carbon-Fibre-AA-17mm-battery-sleeves



What inside dimension CF tubing had enough clearance using AA eneloops (14 or 15mm) for slip fit?
Thx..


----------



## Dave D

knucklegary said:


> What inside dimension CF tubing had enough clearance using AA eneloops (14 or 15mm) for slip fit?
> Thx..



15mm internal x 17mm external fits eneloops.


----------



## knucklegary

Thanks Dave! 

Not only 15x17mm.. Also, sizes 15x18mm & 17x18mm can be useful for omnivore applications


----------



## LogansRun

[email protected] said:


> Yes, AL natural/black in crenellated or flat comes standard on the heads.
> The project is 90% complete, should be wrapping it up in a week or two and production can begin.
> 
> Hmm, good point on the 14500 body.
> I have been thinking about the 1 x AA and 2 x AA bodies lately.
> 
> The 2 x AA is basically the same length as a 3 cell, so if I make it a 18xxx capable light then it could use a lot of battery setups.
> Problem lies with battery rattles when using CR123 or 2 x AA or 2 x 14500 on a 18xxx light.
> 
> Same with the 1 x AA, making it 18500 capable would open up possibilities for many battery setups.
> Definitely something I need to consider.


Ohh, very nice! I have several e-series lights and upgraded Tana-built triples that could use a refresh. The idea of having an e-series body that fits 2xAA or 18500 would be amazing. Looking forward to updates. Thread subscribed.

@Mark, will LF be stocking more single cell bodies in HAIII Natural?


----------



## [email protected]

LogansRun said:


> @Mark, will LF be stocking more single cell bodies in HAIII Natural?



The HAIII Natural bodies were supposed to be released with the HAIII Black ones, but I could not get a satisfactory shade so I did not release the HAIII Natural version.
I got that down a couple months ago, so new releases and parts will have HAIII Natural offerings.

Short Answer: Yes.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Quick update.

Did some modifications on the drawings and found that if I make the tube 18.7mm in diameter (so it will fit all 18XXX batteries) the flat sides on the Two Flats and Rounded Flat version of the bodies will be only 0.1mm thick.
18.5mm will fit IMR18650s, but 0.2mm is also too thin.
Anything under 18.5mm will not fit most 18XXX batteries.
So I am unable to offer 18XXX capable Two Flat or Rounded Flat bodies.
I will make sure they are 17XXX capable, so at least you guys can have the freedom to use 17XXX or smaller batteries on the bodies.

But I think I can do it on the Classic Gen 1 All Round bodies, so I will do some prototyping on those. 


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## bykfixer

Silly question:

Is it feasable to use an A2 OD to add "meat" that would allow the ID to be increased enough to hold an 18mm cell? 

I suppose that gets away from the E series size and shape but could be a hybrid of sorts somewhere between the A and the E if that's feasable.


----------



## [email protected]

bykfixer said:


> Silly question:
> 
> Is it feasable to use an A2 OD to add "meat" that would allow the ID to be increased enough to hold an 18mm cell?
> 
> I suppose that gets away from the E series size and shape but could be a hybrid of sorts somewhere between the A and the E if that's feasable.



That would get away from the shape and size of the E Series which I am very reluctant in doing as I am an old guard of the E Series myself.
I will develop new 18XXX capable E series compatible bodies instead of trying to alter the shape of the original.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## LiftdT4R

Thanks for the update!!! I've been saving my pennies for these for a while. I am pretty sure I'm going to need 1 of every variety. I love the E series but parts are getting tougher and tougher to find. Thanks again Mark!!!


----------



## LogansRun

[email protected] said:


> The HAIII Natural bodies were supposed to be released with the HAIII Black ones, but I could not get a satisfactory shade so I did not release the HAIII Natural version.
> I got that down a couple months ago, so new releases and parts will have HAIII Natural offerings.
> 
> *Short Answer: Yes.*
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark


Thanks @Mark, that is great to hear! I've bookmarked the LF page and waiting for news. x`:twothumbs:thumbsup:


----------



## LogansRun

[email protected] said:


> The HAIII Natural bodies were supposed to be released with the HAIII Black ones, but I could not get a satisfactory shade so I did not release the HAIII Natural version.
> I got that down a couple months ago, so new releases and parts will have HAIII Natural offerings.
> 
> Short Answer: Yes.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark


Thanks @Mark! That's great to hear... will look for further updates. :thumbsup:


----------



## CREEXHP70LED

Sorry if this has been asked, but my eyes are strained from all the reading... I can get a Lumens Factory, E series 2 cell body and a E series Z52 tailcap loaded with a McClicky and slap a Malkoff E2 Hyper Throw/Scout M600 2CR123 High Output Head on it correct? I am sure this is a really obvious answer, but I am running on 30 minutes sleep last night...:tired:


----------



## marco.weiss

CREEXHP70LED said:


> Sorry if this has been asked, but my eyes are strained from all the reading... I can get a Lumens Factory, E series 2 cell body and a E series Z52 tailcap loaded with a McClicky and slap a Malkoff E2 Hyper Throw/Scout M600 2CR123 High Output Head on it correct? I am sure this is a really obvious answer, but I am running on 30 minutes sleep last night...:tired:



yes you can


----------



## Jimmyboots

Thought I would post this here, I just order a E series 3 mode head (2.7-4.5v) to use with a 18650 battery. 

This combo should be ok to use and should get roughly twice the stated runtime that is shown on the website with a 17670 battery. Right? Looking forward to this as there isn’t too much info on these out there.


----------



## thermal guy

17670’s are WAY behind in capacity as of today. Guess there not that popular. That being said a good 18650 at say 3500 mah will give you much longer run times although not twice the runtime


----------



## Jimmyboots

That’s what I figured. Thanks, there’s not too much on these out there. 

Ill be pairing it with a Malkoff bodyguard body.


----------



## thermal guy

Ya.what I do most of the time when I get a new light/battery combo is test it. You will hear all kinds of numbers from the manufacturer and people that use them but if you really want to know and be sure, test it yourself. That way you know.


----------



## rjking

A few more nights!:candle:


----------



## [email protected]

Hi Guys,

Some update:

Got everything done and I am waiting for the anodizing to be finished and also need to finalize the laser markings.
Hopefully it will go smoothly.

Here is a photo of our prototype:








As you can see, there are 2 reflectors.
One in smooth mirror finish and one in orange peel, both will be included as a package
I designed it so the user can swap between which ever they like.
The bezel ring is compatible with the original, so the user can use the aftermarket bezels that is on the market to customize the head.
We will have some bezels available as well.
The lens will be a UCL tempered glass lens with AR coating on both sides, it is compatible with the original so it can be used as a replacement lens.
This lens is already available as a replacement part for the original E Elite head on our Online Shop.

On another note, you guys voiced out about Titanium clips.
So I made a small batch, these are made in limited quantities so get them while supplies last.
You might notice the 1 way long clips are missing from the list, it is missing because it is literally MISSING.
I just can't find them anywhere in the workshop at all, I will upload them when I eventually find them.






Cheers.


Mark


----------



## id30209

YEEEES![emoji91][emoji91][emoji91][emoji91][emoji91][emoji91]


----------



## Nimitz68

Four Ti clips ordered. Thanks very much!


----------



## thermal guy

Wow fantastic job


----------



## ma tumba

So excited to see the replacement lens for the original elite heads. This part has been soooo sorely missed!

Will be getting a few complete heads as well as soon as they are available.

Mark, do you still have the plan to produce mule heads for aleph light engines? That would require to just drill the head already produced and making the appropriate threading


----------



## LiftdT4R

Awesome!!!! Can't wait to order mine!


----------



## DayofReckoning

So, this is going to be a complete E2E head/bezel that's going to work all the standard E-Series incandescent lamps? If so this is super exciting. It's nearly impossible to find replacement E2E bezels.

[email protected], can you make any comment on the beam characteristics with the smooth reflector? Is the throw much improved? I know it's quite a shallow reflector and only so much can be done.


----------



## [email protected]

DayofReckoning said:


> So, this is going to be a complete E2E head/bezel that's going to work all the standard E-Series incandescent lamps? If so this is super exciting. It's nearly impossible to find replacement E2E bezels. [email protected], can you make any comment on the beam characteristics with the smooth reflector? Is the throw much improved? I know it's quite a shallow reflector and only so much can be done.



The head will work with our E Series LED drop-in modules as well as the E Series incandescent lamps.

Yeah, the smooth reflector. This alone probably turned 10% of my head grey trying to figure out how to get it right.
As you mentioned, the reflector is very shallow so there is just so much that it could be done to improve the throw.
The hot spot is a lot more concentrated and the throw is improved by a little. 
It is as good as it gets in terms of throw for such a shallow reflector.
The big improvement I would say would be the over all light output because the original Surefire reflector was heavily orange peeled which cause quite a bit loss of light output in favour of a smoother beam pattern.


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> So excited to see the replacement lens for the original elite heads. This part has been soooo sorely missed! .........Mark, do you still have the plan to produce mule heads for aleph light engines? That would require to just drill the head already produced and making the appropriate threading



Thank you for your support Ma Tumba.

I don't think there ever was a replacement lens for the E heads on the market at all, it's about time this become available. LOL. 

I have never plan to produce anything for the aleph light engines, maybe it was a misunderstanding?
But you are right and our head unit can definitely be modified to serve that purpose if you wish.

I was interested in making a mule for the original E incandescent lamps and our own incandescent and LED offerings for the E Elite Head.
Which can now be achieved with the head unit that we will release, you simply do not install any reflector on the head and it will serve as a mule. 

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## pilo7448

A mule e1e sounds awesome! 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## DayofReckoning

[email protected] said:


> The head will work with our E Series LED drop-in modules as well as the E Series incandescent lamps.
> 
> Yeah, the smooth reflector. This alone probably turned 10% of my head grey trying to figure out how to get it right.
> As you mentioned, the reflector is very shallow so there is just so much that it could be done to improve the throw.
> The hot spot is a lot more concentrated and the throw is improved by a little.
> It is as good as it gets in terms of throw for such a shallow reflector.
> The big improvement I would say would be the over all light output because the original Surefire reflector was heavily orange peeled which cause quite a bit loss of light output in favour of a smoother beam pattern.



I certainly appreciate you took the time and effort to include it. I will be buying a few of the heads as soon as they are available no doubt.


----------



## Mikeg23

I’ve been carrying my Lumens Factory e1 body with two way clip and e-series 1 mode head for a little over a week now. This is a great little form factor that I really like! Basically what the E1b should have been or more like the Viking Tactics L4-mini. I have both the standard and warm tint head but really would like something in between (like around 4000 kelvin)

The great thing about this head is the voltage range, I can use a cr123 primary or an RCR, can’t do that with some of the other options... although I just noticed tonight when I went to take a picture that niether the head or the body say lumens factory on them, which I kind of understand, but I’d be proud to have the manufacture name on there!


----------



## rjking

Ti clip ordered.


----------



## [email protected]

Mikeg23 said:


> I’ve been carrying my Lumens Factory e1 body with two way clip and e-series 1 mode head for a little over a week now. This is a great little form factor that I really like! Basically what the E1b should have been or more like the Viking Tactics L4-mini. I have both the standard and warm tint head but really would like something in between (like around 4000 kelvin)
> 
> The great thing about this head is the voltage range, I can use a cr123 primary or an RCR, can’t do that with some of the other options... although I just noticed tonight when I went to take a picture that niether the head or the body say lumens factory on them, which I kind of understand, but I’d be proud to have the manufacture name on there!




Thank you for your support, Mike.
I am happy that you liked our products.

Kinda forgot to release Nichia 319A 4000K option on the E series heads.....
So I'll do that tomorrow or Tuesday when I have the time.

The next batch of bodies will have our logos on them, maybe I'll add a small logo on the head as well. 

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

rjking said:


> Ti clip ordered.



Thank you for your support, we spent a great deal of effort to make these a reality hope you will like them when you receive them.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## id30209

[email protected] said:


> The next batch of bodies will have our logos on them, maybe I'll add a small logo on the head as well.



This sounds great


----------



## Mikeg23

[email protected] said:


> Kinda forgot to release Nichia 319A 4000K option on the E series heads.....
> So I'll do that tomorrow or Tuesday when I have the time.



That’ awesome guess I’ll have to put in another order soon!


----------



## Jose Marin

Just got 1 mode head and tail stand shroud looks great mark.


----------



## Mikeg23

Jose Marin, I’ve swapped out my tail cap resistor for 47 ohm I think, don’t remember what factory was but it makes for a better low if not using the factory Lx2 head. I’ve got some pictures if you want me to post them.


----------



## id30209

Mikeg23 said:


> I’ve got some pictures if you want me to post them.


Yes please


----------



## Mikeg23

First picture shows the completed “switch” with a disassembled one in the background.
Second picture shows two disassembled switches one with the factory resistor and one with a radio shack 47 ohm. I got a bunch of different resistors and bridged the negative to body to determine which resistor gave me the output I wanted.




[/URL][/IMG]




[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## id30209

Pics not working...


----------



## [email protected]

Mikeg23 said:


> That’ awesome guess I’ll have to put in another order soon!



Just added a Nichia 319A Neutral Tint 4000K 80-CRI version to the E Series LED heads.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Eric242

I received my short and long Ti 2way clips..... pretty cool  I have an E2e with beadblasted & stonewashed Ti bezel and shroud (altermann) and now a LF Ti clip (+ LF LED dropin) which is a pretty good match and transforms the E2e into an even cooler light.

I also ordered an e-series replacement lens. Unfortunatelly it´s diameter is too large and won´t fit any of my e bezels. If I had to guesstimate I´d say from the looks of it, it is almost half a millimeter too large._ =>> EDIT: =Lumens Factory took these off the shelf and are about to produce a new batch with the right diameter."_

Eric


----------



## AndyF

Eric242 said:


> I received my short and long Ti 2way clips..... pretty cool  I have a E2e with beadblasted & stonewashed Ti bezel and shroud (altermann) and now a LF Ti clip (+ LF LED dropin) which is a pretty good match and transforms the E2e into a even cooler light.
> 
> I also ordered an e-series replacement lens. Unfortunatelly it´s diamter is too large and won´t fit any of my e bezels. If I had to guessstimate I´d say from the looks of it, it is almost half a millimeter too large.
> 
> Eric



Could you post a photo of this set up? Thanks


----------



## rjking

Ohhhmmm! A few more sleep :candle:


----------



## Eric242

AndyF said:


> Could you post a photo of this set up? Thanks



Here you go:


----------



## [email protected]

Thank you Eric for pointing out the error on the lens, I have recalled and taken them off the shelves.
A new batch has been arranged for production.
I apologise for any inconvenience caused.

Damn sexy E2E, Eric.
I thought the titanium clips looked better on the black lights, but your setup is really making me have second thoughts.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## euroken

Mark, thanks for the ti clips!


----------



## pilo7448

euroken said:


> Mark, thanks for the ti clips!


Looks great.. Ill have to get one for mine.. Thx for sharing

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

Titanium Clip on a Titanium light, now that's perfection.


----------



## scout24

Ordered a black single cell e-series body and a two-way steel clip this morning to complete a build. Thank you so much for offering these!!! :thumbsup:


----------



## [email protected]

scout24 said:


> Ordered a black single cell e-series body and a two-way steel clip this morning to complete a build. Thank you so much for offering these!!! :thumbsup:



Thank you for your support scout24.


----------



## [email protected]

Okay so I finally found the long version of the titanium clips, so they are available now.
All clips now have 2 versions, QPQ Stainless Steel and Titanium.


----------



## flashlight nut

I am assuming that the Ti clips are stronger than the steel clips. Am I right. I have broken so many two-way clips over the years for my EDC. I was very happy to see LF sell after market clips rather than deal with SF customer service.


----------



## InvisibleFrodo

I can’t say for sure, but I wouldn’t expect titanium to be stronger than steel unless it’s pretty substantially thicker than the steel version, which I doubt it is, since it has to fit into the “slot” on the light.


----------



## [email protected]

flashlight nut said:


> I am assuming that the Ti clips are stronger than the steel clips. Am I right. I have broken so many two-way clips over the years for my EDC. I was very happy to see LF sell after market clips rather than deal with SF customer service.



Well, the titanium clips bend rather than snaps at the weak point.
That is also the reason why we used spring titanium to make the clips, you can simply bend it back to shape and it will retain it's tension as before.
I would be very surprised if you can "break" the titanium clips under normal EDC use.

I have tried to torture test them myself and I could not break them unless I use 2 pilers and bend them over 90 degrees and back and forth repeatedly over 10 times.
Which I don't think will happen to anyone even under the roughest use.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## LiftdT4R

InvisibleFrodo said:


> I can’t say for sure, but I wouldn’t expect titanium to be stronger than steel unless it’s pretty substantially thicker than the steel version, which I doubt it is, since it has to fit into the “slot” on the light.



I've always heard that the tensile strength of titanium is like 4 times that of steel. Steel is usually around 50,000 psi and I believe titanium is around 200,000 psi. This to me means that the same cross sectional area of titanium will take 4 times the tensile load before failing.


----------



## flashlight nut

Thanks for all the answers. It sounds like the Ti clip upgrade is definitely worth it.


----------



## scout24

My single cell E series body and 2-way steel clip arrived today. Ano and threads were perfect, aside from the lack of logo (and ano color) the bodies looks identical. My two recent Tana builds are now complete.  Thanks, Lumens Factory! :twothumbs


----------



## pilo7448

Hey guys, do the 2 way short clips work on e1e bodies with RPM fluted tails? Ty








Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## scout24

Pilo7448- I 'm not sure but here's a pic for reference. The clip goes past the end of the body by about 5/8"...

https://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad56/scout24cpf/20190731_183508-768x1024.jpg


----------



## LiftdT4R

scout24 said:


> My single cell E series body and 2-way steel clip arrived today. Ano and threads were perfect, aside from the lack of logo (and ano color) the bodies looks identical. My two recent Tana builds are now complete.  Thanks, Lumens Factory! :twothumbs



Very nice! I liiiiike!

I'm planning to do the same as soon as these heads come out. I'd like to send them to Tana to build a 2 cell and single cell E series. I've never owned a Tana light and the E series conversions he does look awesome. It is a light that's on my flashlight bucket list.


----------



## scout24

Thanks! The Tana head on an E2e body running a 16650 is a thing of beauty. E2e may be my all time favorite form factor, but E1e is in the top 3 or 4.(Mine are single cell builds with H17f drivers.)


----------



## rjking

Any update on this Mark?



[email protected] said:


> The head will work with our E Series LED drop-in modules as well as the E Series incandescent lamps.
> 
> Yeah, the smooth reflector. This alone probably turned 10% of my head grey trying to figure out how to get it right.
> As you mentioned, the reflector is very shallow so there is just so much that it could be done to improve the throw.
> The hot spot is a lot more concentrated and the throw is improved by a little.
> It is as good as it gets in terms of throw for such a shallow reflector.
> The big improvement I would say would be the over all light output because the original Surefire reflector was heavily orange peeled which cause quite a bit loss of light output in favour of a smoother beam pattern.


----------



## scout24

2 cell body with long clip on the way. Should have just ordered them together in the first place...


----------



## [email protected]

scout24 said:


> 2 cell body with long clip on the way. Should have just ordered them together in the first place...



Thank you for your support, scout24.


----------



## [email protected]

rjking said:


> Any update on this Mark?



Just making last adjustments and waiting for some remaining parts to finish up.
But here is the HA3 Natural version.

I have done my very best on the shade, I hope you guys will like it.
Scrapped so many lots because of the shade, it's not even funny.











Hex and Smoothie with Mirror Finish and Orange Peel reflectors.
You can just use the head without any reflectors to use as a mule as well.






Hex head on E2e, original head unit on the right.






Smoothie head on the same E2e, original head on the right.


----------



## id30209

Amazing!
Thx for the update![emoji1690]


Sent from Tapatalk


----------



## AndyF

Looking forward to a smoothie bezel [emoji106]


----------



## scout24

So you're saying I should have just held off on my order and added heads?  :nana:

These look great, thanks for keeping the platform alive!


----------



## rjking

Thanks for the update Mark.


----------



## cubebike

Very nice. Mark! Well done. Looking forward for the LF E head


----------



## Nichia!

Awesome


----------



## LiftdT4R

Wow!! These look awesome and those smooth bezels are a sweet sweet surprise!!! 

Me as soon as they are available on Lumens Factory's site:


----------



## thermal guy

Dude! Them are awesome!! Bet the mirror finish throws pretty good. You do great work I’m telling you. You really should get into the flashlight business 😂😂😃


----------



## pilo7448

Wow.. Great job.. Been waiting for these! 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## id30209

Mark will you have HA natural twisty tailcaps released as well?


----------



## LRJ88

[email protected] said:


> Just making last adjustments and waiting for some remaining parts to finish up.
> But here is the HA3 Natural version.
> 
> I have done my very best on the shade, I hope you guys will like it.
> Scrapped so many lots because of the shade, it's not even funny.



How have the shades turned out on the other ones? Did you take any pictures? This looks amazing as it is.


----------



## [email protected]

thermal guy said:


> Dude! Them are awesome!! Bet the mirror finish throws pretty good. You do great work I’m telling you. You really should get into the flashlight business 



Well, the mirror finished reflectors throws as good as that stupid shallow *** design permits so don't bet on it. LOL.
I did my best and wasted 3 months on over 10 different configurations to get this, if only there is a little more room for adjustments it could improve by a lot.
But I don't want to change the overall dimension and especially the length of the head, so there is really only so much I can do.

I thought I AM in the flashlight business, LOL.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

id30209 said:


> Mark will you have HA natural twisty tailcaps released as well?



Yes, there will be a new lot of Z52 style tailcaps in this HA natural shade in Twisty or McClicky options.
Sorry guys, I know the wait was long but gotta get that shade right.

And there will be a new Z57/Z61 style and E2T-MV Tactician style McClicky tailcaps in HA Natural and HA Black available as well.

Got a lot of stuff in the works, but these should be out within a month hopefully.


----------



## [email protected]

LRJ88 said:


> How have the shades turned out on the other ones? Did you take any pictures? This looks amazing as it is.



Well, the anodizing dude got the HA Natural down so all our future products should have this shade.

You mean the ones I scrapped?
They range from a light silver colour to a dark brownish grey.
The closest was either a few shades too light or a few shades too dark.

Finishing up on the HA Black now, so I might release the HA Naturals first and the HA black ones a week or two after that.


----------



## Roger Sully

I love the rounded look! Cant wait for these to be released.


----------



## ma tumba

[email protected] said:


> Well, the anodizing dude got the HA Natural down so all our future products should have this shade.
> 
> You mean the ones I scrapped?
> They range from a light silver colour to a dark brownish grey.
> The closest was either a few shades too light or a few shades too dark.
> 
> Finishing up on the HA Black now, so I might release the HA Naturals first and the HA black ones a week or two after that.



Mark, as you know, original surefire shades vary quite widely, so some of the "imperfect" shades that you have scrapped may make some folks quite happy, because they match their particular surefire parts. So it might be a good idea to offer them as factory seconds


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Mark, as you know, original surefire shades vary quite widely, so some of the "imperfect" shades that you have scrapped may make some folks quite happy, because they match their particular surefire parts. So it might be a good idea to offer them as factory seconds



Hi ma tumba,

That is a good idea, I will consider that.
There are some details that might make this difficult to do as, but I'll look into it.


----------



## AndyF

I would buy a factory second.


----------



## scout24

Probably a +1 from me on factory seconds...


----------



## id30209

Me too^^^


----------



## wolfstyle

Will these be offered as complete lights? Incandescent and LED?


----------



## [email protected]

wolfstyle said:


> Will these be offered as complete lights? Incandescent and LED?



I thought about it.
Heard a couple of you guys wanting complete lights.

Our website is not really setup for all the different options that a complete light can have.
I mean tailcaps we have twisty and McClicky Z52, soon there will be Z57 and that tactician tailcap.
For the head there is Smoothie and Hex for the Incan which can use all our different incan offerings and LED towers.
The LED heads have 3 models and each have 3 different LEDs for each.
Clips, we have like 5 different ones in 2 materials for each.

So I have no idea how to execute this on our Online Shop and eBay store.
The only way is to do it manually when a customer "build their own complete light".
Which is doable on our Online Shop, but quite impossible on eBay.

But I will look into this. No promises tho.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Eric242

Since the shop (soon) offers all the parts for a complete light, everybody can order the desired parts and put the light together themselfs. I guess anyone who isn´t able to screw the head and tailcap onto the body and slap a clip on it wouldn´t be able to click the light on anyway 

Eric


----------



## pilo7448

I was just thinking this (to build a complete light) i think everyone here is capable of piecing it together but that might be cool. 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## InvisibleFrodo

There’s going to be a SMOOTHIE head option as well as the “classic” hex head?!? :: That is totally awesome!! I can’t wait for these heads to be released... So cool!!


----------



## LRJ88

[email protected] said:


> Well, the anodizing dude got the HA Natural down so all our future products should have this shade.
> 
> You mean the ones I scrapped?
> They range from a light silver colour to a dark brownish grey.
> The closest was either a few shades too light or a few shades too dark.
> 
> Finishing up on the HA Black now, so I might release the HA Naturals first and the HA black ones a week or two after that.



It sounds like a pretty nice lineup to me. Perhaps putting them into 4 categories, 1 being the lightest, 2 slightly lighter than optimal, 3 slightly lower than optimal and 4 being anything below that would be an idea and something to implement without too much added job. I second the sentiment of the ones before me regarding selling them as factory seconds, then you at least won't have completely lost the money machining and materials cost.


----------



## InvisibleFrodo

+1 on the idea to sell the parts that have varied shades of anodize. There is an interesting charm to the mismatched anodize color. The folks over at another custom makers thread have been trying to convince them to allow mismatched parts as well.


----------



## akula88

Count me in for another vote for HA-Natural is varying shades.  I actually love looking at the 2-/3-shade looks of the HA.

Come to think of it... it looks like Mark might no longer be selling them as factory seconds. : :nana: :


----------



## MMD

Can't wait for my ti clips!!


----------



## akula88

Finally, my 2-Way Black/SS Short Clip arrived (together with clickies for my Z52). Spent about an hour installing and doing maintenance cleaning on my E1e. Here's a short photo collage.






1 O-Ring removed | 2 body and thread masked to avoid scratches | 3 SF body clip removed by punching with a small flat screw driver | 4 LF clip punched into slot, spacer not needed | 5 Threads cleaned and greased | 6 Reassembled and tested


----------



## scout24

Mark- Have you considered a run of bare aluminum, maybe stonewashed instead of anodized? Apologies if already addressed...


----------



## bykfixer

[email protected] said:


> I thought about it.
> Heard a couple of you guys wanting complete lights.
> 
> Our website is not really setup for all the different options that a complete light can have.
> I mean tailcaps we have twisty and McClicky Z52, soon there will be Z57 and that tactician tailcap.
> For the head there is Smoothie and Hex for the Incan which can use all our different incan offerings and LED towers.
> The LED heads have 3 models and each have 3 different LEDs for each.
> Clips, we have like 5 different ones in 2 materials for each.
> 
> So I have no idea how to execute this on our Online Shop and eBay store.
> The only way is to do it manually when a customer "build their own complete light".
> Which is doable on our Online Shop, but quite impossible on eBay.
> 
> But I will look into this. No promises tho.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Turn key option. Say after a bit anylize which options seem most popular and build a few as a "turn key" option.


Following the Scout24 post I'd be interested in a bare 1 and/or 2 cell complete. At least one of each.


----------



## [email protected]

scout24 said:


> Mark- Have you considered a run of bare aluminum, maybe stonewashed instead of anodized? Apologies if already addressed...



I have thought about it, but decided not to make them since I don't have bare aluminum tailcaps and head units to match it.
We will be tackling a whole bunch of bodies after the release of the heads and tailcaps that will be released in the next 10 day. (hopefully)
So maybe I'll see what I can do when the time comes.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## double_r76

Did the titanium clips disappear from your store? I keep finding new items to add to my order/cart before I hit submit, but now I can’t find the titanium clips...

Thanks,
Randall


----------



## jarobi

[email protected],

Many thanks for keeping the E* fires burning! Here's one of your single cell bodies and tower module, with SF bezel and twisty tailcap from a Tactician.


----------



## thermal guy

OH! I like that!!


----------



## jarobi

Lego goodness! Disappears in the pocket, while the flare on the tailcap improves grip almost exponentially.


----------



## id30209

Now i need to get one E LF body... Lucky i bought cheap Tactician tailcap few months ago


Sent from Tapatalk


----------



## Eric242

double_r76 said:


> Did the titanium clips disappear from your store? I keep finding new items to add to my order/cart before I hit submit, but now I can’t find the titanium clips...


A quote from the LF pages regarding the ti clips ""We did not make many of these and we are not sure if there will be a second run, so get yours while that are available."" Looks like these may be gone already.

Eric


----------



## double_r76

Eric242 said:


> A quote from the LF pages regarding the ti clips ""We did not make many of these and we are not sure if there will be a second run, so get yours while that are available."" Looks like these may be gone already.
> 
> Eric



Thanks, Eric. I saw that... just seemed odd the that all 5 versions of the clips would go from having plenty in stock to selling out at the same time.


----------



## [email protected]

Yes, they disappeared.
I took them off the rack because I want to see if I can harden them to provide a better product for the harder users.
Titanium are softer then steel, so they bend more easily than steel but would not snap like steel.
I want to see if I can harden them.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

jarobi said:


> [email protected],
> 
> Many thanks for keeping the E* fires burning! Here's one of your single cell bodies and tower module, with SF bezel and twisty tailcap from a Tactician.



Thank you for your support Jarobi, your light looks awesome!!
Sweet sweet lego goodness indeed.
The Surefire E Series is my favourite light with that Gunmetal teardrop head with 3 round body being my absolute top love.
Loved it ever since it came out.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Some update.

The last E Series LED Head Unit (teardrop) has been sold today and it has been taken off the line-up.
It will be replaced with new KL1 and KL4 style LED Head Units with an updated reflector module.
These head units can be upgraded with the bezel rings you see in the photo or original Surefire bezels.

4 versions of the Elite head units pictured here for your reference.

Titanium Defender bezel, Stainless Steel Defender, Stainless Steel Crenelated, Stainless Steel Flat Bezels.

Stainless Steel QPQ Black Defender, Stainless Steel QPQ Black Crenelated, Stainless Steel QPQ Black Flat Bezels.

All bezels compatible with original Surefire Elite/KL1 (Gen1)/KL4 (Gen 1)/L1 (Gen1-3) head units and Lumens Factory head units pictured in the above photo.



So whats the hold up?

Stupid o-ring guy not delivering my custom made gaskets on time which all the new head units use.


So I might have to just release the bezels before the heads.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## id30209

_*O
M
G
!
!
!
!

*_


----------



## pilo7448

Love it 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## jarobi

In.

Great work!


----------



## id30209

Mark, are these heads gonna be marked with LF logo like all the parts?


----------



## [email protected]

id30209 said:


> Mark, are these heads gonna be marked with LF logo like all the parts?



No, the heads will not be marked with our logos since I don't want multiple logos on a complete light if someone put one together.
Next batch of E bodies will have our logos and we are looking to release tailcaps with our logos and website.
So it will look weird if I put logos on the heads as well.

The heads might look very similar to originals on the outside, but the internals are completely different so there should be no problem differentiating them from originals.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## id30209

Thx! 
Waiting for updates [emoji106]


----------



## pilo7448

Will these be a limited run or something youll stock for a while? 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## thugcop

Where do you buy I haven't noticed any additions on the Lumen Factory Site?


----------



## [email protected]

thugcop said:


> Where do you buy I haven't noticed any additions on the Lumen Factory Site?



They are not ready yet as the O-ring guy is holding up on the gaskets needed for them.
They will be released as soon as I got them.

The bezels should be up tomorrow tho.

Cheers


----------



## [email protected]

pilo7448 said:


> Will these be a limited run or something youll stock for a while?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk



They will be available as a regular item.
Titanium bezels are only made in extremely limited numbers and if they sell well I’ll make new batches.


----------



## cubebike

Looking forward for the E heads


----------



## rjking

[Q
[email protected];5334232]




Some update.

The last E Series LED Head Unit (teardrop) has been sold today and it has been taken off the line-up.
It will be replaced with new KL1 and KL4 style LED Head Units with an updated reflector module.
These head units can be upgraded with the bezel rings you see in the photo or original Surefire bezels.

4 versions of the Elite head units pictured here for your reference.

Titanium Defender bezel, Stainless Steel Defender, Stainless Steel Crenelated, Stainless Steel Flat Bezels.

Stainless Steel QPQ Black Defender, Stainless Steel QPQ Black Crenelated, Stainless Steel QPQ Black Flat Bezels.

All bezels compatible with original Surefire Elite/KL1 (Gen1)/KL4 (Gen 1)/L1 (Gen1-3) head units and Lumens Factory head units pictured in the above photo.



So whats the hold up?

Stupid o-ring guy not delivering my custom made gaskets on time which all the new head units use.


So I might have to just release the bezels before the heads.


Cheers.

Mark[/QUOTE]

Hhhhmmm! Looks like the O-ring guy has gone missing. oo:


----------



## [email protected]

He actually has for a while.
I got them last week finally.
Need to get studio photos done, hopefully I can get them released next week.

Sorry for the wait.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Roger Sully

Thanks for the update Mark.

I got a few dollars standing by!


----------



## Pi_is_blue

Any new photos to share? The KL4 style heads are rather intriguing!


----------



## [email protected]

They are now available with your choice of bezel material and styles.
Aluminum Crenelated HA3 Black bezels not available currently, but will be available in a month.
Again, sorry for the wait.

KL1 and KL4 Style LED Heads will be released next week. 

Thank you for all the support guys.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## id30209

[emoji95][emoji95][emoji95][emoji95][emoji95][emoji95]


Sent from Tapatalk


----------



## pilo7448

Very cool

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## aginthelaw

Only one of the pics are showing up on my phone in post 463


----------



## thermal guy

Hey them are nice! I might have to buy an E2 just for them.


----------



## ampdude

Mark, those incan heads/bezels look really good. Now if we can get the original KT turbo-heads up there like we were asking for years ago.


----------



## Dave D

Is there any update on the E series 17500 bodies going into production?


----------



## ampdude

Dave D said:


> Is there any update on the E series 17500 bodies going into production?



As in 2 x 17500? That would be great.


----------



## ncvarmint2016

I want to build a e2d style light with a malkoff defender style tailcap and a lumens factory led head soon. Is the surefire e2d body worth the extra $10 used i found online over the lumens factory body? 
thanks


----------



## double_r76

ncvarmint2016 said:


> I want to build a e2d style light with a malkoff defender style tailcap and a lumens factory led head soon. Is the surefire e2d body worth the extra $10 used i found online over the lumens factory body?
> thanks



I’ve got both the 1-cell and 2-cell Lumens Factory bodies. Machining, finish, and function are perfect. The finish also perfectly matches the SureFire components they are mated with.





-Randall


----------



## ampdude

I prefer the older style body without the rounded flats. They offer more grip surface, and look better, to me at least. I like either style, but the round flats version drops out of my hands sometimes.


----------



## [email protected]

ampdude said:


> Mark, those incan heads/bezels look really good. Now if we can get the original KT turbo-heads up there like we were asking for years ago.



Hi Ampdude,

Thanks for your nice comment and support.
I have actually redesigned it that KT head early this year, a lot of stuff on the production queue so hopefully we can get prototypes done next year.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Dave D said:


> Is there any update on the E series 17500 bodies going into production?



Unfortunately, we currently only have plans to produce 1 cell and 2 cell E bodies.
We have a new body coming out soon, if everything goes well hopefully it could be released within this year.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

Mark, if I put the reflector upside down, how deep the filament of a bulb would sit? Will it be inside the hole or below?


----------



## [email protected]

KL1 Style LED Head Units now available. :laughing:


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Mark, if I put the reflector upside down, how deep the filament of a bulb would sit? Will it be inside the hole or below?



There is a "lip" on the reflector so it cannot be installed upside down.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

If I sand this lip out, would the reflector still stay in place? Actually I have been looking for the possibility of overturning the reflector to get a very narrow beam out


----------



## euroken

Hey Mark, 

Are aluminum Crenelated HA3 Black bezels for e12/e2e headsavailable yet for separate purchase? And are they also compatible with KL1 and KL4 heads? 

Thanks again!


----------



## Pi_is_blue

How's the beam for the KL1/KL4 style heads compared to the traditional E-head? Is the reflector deeper? I just got my black E2e setup with the Nichia 319 drop in, and I must say the fit and finish of the light are excellent as well as the tint! The spill is extremely broad due to the shallow reflector, and I'm wondering if I should get a KL4 head for a tighter beam pattern once they are available...


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> If I sand this lip out, would the reflector still stay in place? Actually I have been looking for the possibility of overturning the reflector to get a very narrow beam out



I honestly have no idea.
I think it could be done if the lip is filed off, but I have never done it.
I am not sure if that will get you a very narrow beam either as there would be no reflecting surface to focus the light.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

euroken said:


> Hey Mark,
> 
> Are aluminum Crenelated HA3 Black bezels for e12/e2e headsavailable yet for separate purchase? And are they also compatible with KL1 and KL4 heads?
> 
> Thanks again!



Working on it, but I don't think we will sell aluminum bezels separately as a standard item.
You can talk to me by email and we can arrange something when it is available.

Yes, they are compatible with the KL1 and KL4 heads.
All our E Series Bezels are compatible with Surefire Elite, KL1 and KL4 heads.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

[email protected] said:


> I honestly have no idea.
> I think it could be done if the lip is filed off, but I have never done it.
> I am not sure if that will get you a very narrow beam either as there would be no reflecting surface to focus the light.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Mark, thanks for your response!

I also wonder if you have natural bezels for sale? The site lists steel and black ones only, but since you now have complete natural heads..


----------



## [email protected]

Pi_is_blue said:


> How's the beam for the KL1/KL4 style heads compared to the traditional E-head? Is the reflector deeper? I just got my black E2e setup with the Nichia 319 drop in, and I must say the fit and finish of the light are excellent as well as the tint! The spill is extremely broad due to the shallow reflector, and I'm wondering if I should get a KL4 head for a tighter beam pattern once they are available...



Thank you for your support and nice comments.
I am happy to hear that you liked it.

Yes, the spill is broad due to the shallow reflector on the Elite head.
I did my best on the Elite head reflector, there is a slight improvement over the Surefire Elite head but not much could be done due to the design restrictions.

The KL1/KL4 style LED head that we have has a much deeper reflector and the reflector is designed for LED only, so it has a much tighter beam over the Elite head unit.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## euroken

[email protected] said:


> Working on it, but I don't think we will sell aluminum bezels separately as a standard item.
> You can talk to me by email and we can arrange something when it is available.
> 
> Yes, they are compatible with the KL1 and KL4 heads.
> All our E Series Bezels are compatible with Surefire Elite, KL1 and KL4 heads.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Thank you Mark! I received my e series heads and they are perfect! I'll post some photos in coming days.

Cheers!


----------



## pilo7448

Question answered. [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## Jimmyboots

Picked up one of you new heads and love it. Great tint and beam on the 319a. Looks great on a malkoff host. 

I do wish the low was lower but otherwise awesome.


----------



## pilo7448

Jimmyboots.. Very nice, looks great brother 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## Pi_is_blue

Any ETA for the KL4 heads?


----------



## ampdude

I'd like to see a really floody KL4 like the original Luxeon5 (room lighter) version. I remember when Surefire switched to the updated Seoul P4 in the KL4 and it kind of disappointed a lot of folks because even though it used less power and was a bit brighter it didn't have the same wall of light as the Luxeon5 version. The emitter surface area of the Luxeon5 was very large, I don't know what the modern equivalent would be.


----------



## battledrill3

Just want to be sure, and also I'm very stupid so bear that in mind, that I'm correct in understanding that the new 1-cell bodies for the tactician heads haven't been released yet along with the 2 way long clip for the tactician body? It's also 4:35 in the AM here in NYC in my first real tumble down the rabbit hole. 

Mark: Ordered the Z52 tailcap, can't wait! Thank you so much for do what you do, sir. Cheers.


----------



## vr4corrado

Any chance you have a head that would mate up with an E1L Outdoorsman. Its hard to find something that matches the color.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## ampdude

vr4corrado said:


> Any chance you have a head that would mate up with an E1L Outdoorsman. Its hard to find something that matches the color.
> 
> Thanks in advance.



I don't understand why people are so obsessed with HA NAT matching colors. That's the charm of the finish, it doesn't always match up from part to part and it's the most durable.


----------



## [email protected]

Pi_is_blue said:


> Any ETA for the KL4 heads?



Hopefully within 2 months.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

battledrill3 said:


> Just want to be sure, and also I'm very stupid so bear that in mind, that I'm correct in understanding that the new 1-cell bodies for the tactician heads haven't been released yet along with the 2 way long clip for the tactician body? It's also 4:35 in the AM here in NYC in my first real tumble down the rabbit hole.
> 
> Mark: Ordered the Z52 tailcap, can't wait! Thank you so much for do what you do, sir. Cheers.



They are not available yet, but we are working on it.

Thank you.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

vr4corrado said:


> Any chance you have a head that would mate up with an E1L Outdoorsman. Its hard to find something that matches the color.
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Our Elite, Smoothie and KL1 heads are in the colour range of what Surefire HA3 Naturals are.
Not sure it will be a "perfect match" because even Surefire themselves can't match the shade of their own lights.
But our heads are in their colour and shade range.
We spent over 2 years, a lot of trial and error (time/money) to get them there, I would say they are probably the closest out there on the market.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

ampdude said:


> I don't understand why people are so obsessed with HA NAT matching colors. That's the charm of the finish, it doesn't always match up from part to part and it's the most durable.



I can understand some customer wanting matching HA Naturals, that is why we spent so much time on trying to get a good shade for our head units.
But I agree with you that there is a certain charm in a light with slightly different shades on the parts.
I think it adds individuality and character to that particular light, that is also one of the reason I love the HA Natural more than the HA Black lights.
Too bad Surefire doesn't offer HA3 Natural lights anymore, really miss them myself.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## thermal guy

I’m not sure I’d like an E series light with matching ano. Seeing as I have never seen or had one😁 but honestly I really like the different shades. It’s kinda old school.


----------



## ampdude

[email protected] said:


> Hopefully within 2 months.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Awesome! I'm hoping there will be a warm high cri option available.


----------



## Dave Huck

Apologies in advance if this is a stupid question... I have a Vital Gear VG3 body and tailcap in natural HA. Will the KL4 head work with 3 cr123 primaries? If not, can anybody suggest an LED tower that could handle 3 cr123s?

And thanks to Mark for supporting the E form factor!

TIA

Dave


----------



## ampdude

I'm hoping so. The original KL1 and KL4 worked fine on 9 volts. It will extend the runtime quite a bit as well.


----------



## [email protected]

Dave Huck said:


> Apologies in advance if this is a stupid question... I have a Vital Gear VG3 body and tailcap in natural HA. Will the KL4 head work with 3 cr123 primaries? If not, can anybody suggest an LED tower that could handle 3 cr123s?
> 
> And thanks to Mark for supporting the E form factor!
> 
> TIA
> 
> Dave



Yes, the "3.7V-9V" E modules in the E heads will take up to 13V so you can even use 3 x RCR123 rechargeables in your Vital Gear 3 cell body.

Speaking of Vital Gear bodies, I acquired the last batch of about 30 or so VB2 HA3 Natural bodies from a local source last year.
New old stock still in package, maybe I'll put it up for sale when I have time.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Dave Huck

[email protected] said:


> Yes, the "3.7V-9V" E modules in the E heads will take up to 13V so you can even use 3 x RCR123 rechargeables in your Vital Gear 3 cell body.
> 
> Speaking of Vital Gear bodies, I acquired the last batch of about 30 or so VB2 HA3 Natural bodies from a local source last year.
> New old stock still in package, maybe I'll put it up for sale when I have time.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Excellent news! Thanks once again Mark.

Dave


----------



## pilo7448

I would like one of the fb2 bodies.. Never had one [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## id30209

I’m in for 1 VG


Sent from Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Huck

Again, apologies in advance if I missed something earlier in the thread.... What are the key differences between the LF KL1 and KL4 heads please?


----------



## vr4corrado

[email protected] said:


> Our Elite, Smoothie and KL1 heads are in the colour range of what Surefire HA3 Naturals are.
> Not sure it will be a "perfect match" because even Surefire themselves can't match the shade of their own lights.
> But our heads are in their colour and shade range.
> We spent over 2 years, a lot of trial and error (time/money) to get them there, I would say they are probably the closest out there on the market
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark




Thanks for the reply. What lamp assemblies work with either the Elite or Smoothie? Thanks again and Happy Thanksgiving!


----------



## lion504

Are the clips on the 7075 e-series bodies removable? Thanks.


----------



## ampdude

lion504 said:


> Are the clips on the 7075 e-series bodies removable? Thanks.



If they are like the Surefire clips, you can remove them with some shoe laces and a bit of pulling force. Just don't hit yourself in the eye when it comes flying out.

I'm wondering if those plastic tension pieces that fit between the clip and body are available as separate items, since they are easy to loose and I could use a few.


----------



## Roger Sully

Anyone on the fence about grabbing any of these Lumens factory accessories needs to jump off now! These things are awesome!





[/IMG]


----------



## Pi_is_blue

Is that one of their new KL1 heads at the bottom of the picture? How does it compare to the E2-LED tower in term of hotspot and spill size/intensity?


----------



## Roger Sully

It is. It’s definitely brighter than the E2 Led and more throwy. The E2 has a LOT more flood.


----------



## [email protected]

Dave Huck said:


> Again, apologies in advance if I missed something earlier in the thread.... What are the key differences between the LF KL1 and KL4 heads please?



The only difference is the head design.
The KL4 version will have the same bezel options and use the same modules as the KL1 version.


----------



## [email protected]

vr4corrado said:


> Thanks for the reply. What lamp assemblies work with either the Elite or Smoothie? Thanks again and Happy Thanksgiving!



The following will work on the Elite and Smoothie head units:

All our E Series Incandescent Lamp Assemblies and the IMR-E2 Incandescent Lamp Assemblies.
Surefire MN01, MN02, MN03 Lamp Assemblies.
Our E1-LED, E2-LED Tower Modules.

Never tried other maker's E Series LED or Incandescent modules on them since I don't own any.
But if they are designed to work on the original Surefire Elite Heads, they should work on our heads with no problems.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

lion504 said:


> Are the clips on the 7075 e-series bodies removable? Thanks.



Yes, they are removable.
They can be removed the same way you remove Surefire clips just as Ampdude suggested.


----------



## [email protected]

Pi_is_blue said:


> Is that one of their new KL1 heads at the bottom of the picture? How does it compare to the E2-LED tower in term of hotspot and spill size/intensity?



Yes, KL1 heads has a more powerful driver and a much deeper reflector that was designed specifically for LED use.
So the beam is way more focused and throwy with a nice beam pattern.

E2-LED is a drop in module for an incandescent reflector.
We gave it our best efforts, but the lack of space for a more powerful driver and the small shallow incandescent based reflector is a huge limiting factor on the performance and beam pattern. 

So I would say they are apples to oranges really.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Roger Sully said:


> Anyone on the fence about grabbing any of these Lumens factory accessories needs to jump off now! These things are awesome!



Thank you so much for the support, Roger.
I am happy to know that you liked them.


----------



## akula88

_I know that the thread has evolved from just bodies, so I might just ask this here_

Mark, Is there any chance that an e-series shrouded tailcap (in HA NAT) is on the drawing board? 

SF only released the Z68 tail cap in HA-BLK and Tan. OR did release similar switches in custom copper and titantium.


----------



## Dave Huck

akula88 said:


> _I know that the thread has evolved from just bodies, so I might just ask this here_
> 
> Mark, Is there any chance that an e-series shrouded tailcap (in HA NAT) is on the drawing board?
> 
> SF only released the Z68 tail cap in HA-BLK and Tan. OR did release similar switches in custom copper and titantium.



I'd find it enormously helpful if Mark could post a list of LF E Series components and their availability.

This thread has resurrected my love of E Lego and I'd really like to bring some old VG components back to life.

Apologies in advance if we should just refer to the LF website but an overview (including what was/will be available) would be really handy.

Dave


----------



## [email protected]

akula88 said:


> _I know that the thread has evolved from just bodies, so I might just ask this here_
> 
> Mark, Is there any chance that an e-series shrouded tailcap (in HA NAT) is on the drawing board?
> 
> SF only released the Z68 tail cap in HA-BLK and Tan. OR did release similar switches in custom copper and titantium.




Yes, it's in the drawing boards.
We will be releasing a couple tailcaps in the near future which will include the Z57 in McClicky format and the E2T tailcap also in McClicky format (Yes, there will be a lanyard ring built-in).
Z68 in HA Natural has long been on our drawing boards, not sure if it can make it in time with the above tailcaps tho.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Dave Huck said:


> I'd find it enormously helpful if Mark could post a list of LF E Series components and their availability.
> 
> This thread has resurrected my love of E Lego and I'd really like to bring some old VG components back to life.
> 
> Apologies in advance if we should just refer to the LF website but an overview (including what was/will be available) would be really handy.
> 
> Dave




I am at home right now, but off the top of my head:

Currently:

KL1 Style LED Head Unit in HA Black
KL1 Style LED Head Unit in HA Natural
Elite Head Unit in HA Black
Elite Head Unit in HA Natural
Smoothie Head Unit in HA Black
Smoothie Head Unit in HA Natural
Stainless Steel Bezel in Flat, Crenelated, Defender Styles
QPQ Black Stainless Steel Bezel in Flat, Crenelated, Defender Styles
Titanium Bezel in Defender Style
Elite/KL1/KL4 Optical Coated UCL Replacement Lens 
KX1/KX2 Optical Coated UCL Replacement Lens
Rounded Flat E 1 Cell Body in HA Black
Rounded Flat E 2 Cell Body in HA Black
Z52 in HA Black
Z52 in HA Natural
Z52 in Old School Glossy Black
Z52 GITD Boot
Z52 Hunter Orange Boot
Z57/61/E2T/EDCL1/EDCL2 Slim Tailcap Shroud in Stainless Steel
Z57/61/E2T/EDCL1/EDCL2 Slim Tailcap Shroud in QPQ Black Stainless Steel
Z57/61/E2T/EDCL1/EDCL2 Tailstanding Tailcap Shroud in Stainless Steel
Z57/61/E2T/EDCL1/EDCL2 Tailstanding Tailcap Shroud in QPQ Black Stainless Steel
E to C Adapter in HA Black
E to C Adapter in HA Natural
1 Way Clip (Short)
1 Way Clip (Long)
Tactician Style Clip
2 Way Clip (Short)
2 Way Clip (Long)


Upcoming items in the near future:

KL4 Style LED Head Units in HA Black
KL4 Style LED Head Unit in HA Natural
New Version of our Teardrop Style LED Head Unit, we finally managed to get the teardrop to look EXACTLY the same as Surefire's original which is something I wanted to do years ago but failed.
Z57 McClicky Tailcap in HA Natural
Z61 McClicky Tailcap in HA Black
Z68 McClicky Tailcap in HA Natural, (Flat and Defender)
Z57/61/68 GITD Boot
Z57/61/68 Hunter Orange Boot
E2T Tactician McClicky Tailcap in HA Black
E2T Tactician McClicky Tailcap in HA Natural
E2T/EDCL1/EDCL2 GITD Boot
E2T/EDCL1/EDCL2 Hunter Orange Boot
A New E1 Body (18350 ready)
A New E2 Body (18650 ready)
A D26/P60 Head Unit for the E Series
Improved versions of the titanium clips
E2T-MV Tactician 2 way clip

Some more stuff down the road as well, but they are a bit too far off to mention now.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## tech25

[email protected] said:


> E2-LED is a drop in module for an incandescent reflector.
> We gave it our best efforts, but the lack of space for a more powerful driver and the small shallow incandescent based reflector is a huge limiting factor on the performance and beam pattern.



So these would have a bigger hotspot- better for closer use? 

Also, is there any chance you will make a 2 stage tailcap like the LX2?


----------



## ampdude

[email protected] said:


> Yes, it's in the drawing boards.
> We will be releasing a couple tailcaps in the near future which will include the Z57 in McClicky format and the E2T tailcap also in McClicky format (Yes, there will be a lanyard ring built-in).
> Z68 in HA Natural has long been on our drawing boards, not sure if it can make it in time with the above tailcaps tho.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



That would be great. There was an Aleph version that was sort of similar in Black HA and Nat HA, but I sold them a really long time ago unfortunately. It had I believe three roundish rectangular holes cut out around inside the shroud, but the bezel edge of the shroud was flat, not the defender style cutouts. No knurling, but it did have raised flats on the outside on the switch part that wasn't part of the shroud. It looked great, but I prefer the SF style knurling. The cutouts were a really good idea.


----------



## akula88

[email protected] said:


> I am at home right now, but off the top of my head:
> Upcoming items in the near future:
> 
> KL4 Style LED Head Units in HA Black
> KL4 Style LED Head Unit in HA Natural
> New Version of our Teardrop Style LED Head Unit, we finally managed to get the teardrop to look EXACTLY the same as Surefire's original which is something I wanted to do years ago but failed.
> Z57 McClicky Tailcap in HA Natural
> Z61 McClicky Tailcap in HA Black
> Z68 McClicky Tailcap in HA Natural, (Flat and Defender)
> Z57/61/68 GITD Boot
> Z57/61/68 Hunter Orange Boot
> E2T Tactician McClicky Tailcap in HA Black
> E2T Tactician McClicky Tailcap in HA Natural
> E2T/EDCL1/EDCL2 GITD Boot
> E2T/EDCL1/EDCL2 Hunter Orange Boot
> A New E1 Body (18350 ready)
> A New E2 Body (18650 ready)
> A D26/P60 Head Unit for the E Series
> Improved versions of the titanium clips
> E2T-MV Tactician 2 way clip
> Some more stuff down the road as well, but they are a bit too far off to mention now.
> 
> Mark



Yay! Exciting times are here for the E-series enthusiasts! Looking forward to them  :naughty:

The 18x50 bodies would be very interesting... I'm hold off my purchase for an equivalent OR bodies because of the absence of knurling/checkering. I hope that LM's version would be near the E-series profile.


----------



## Dave Huck

[email protected] said:


> I am at home right now, but off the top of my head:
> 
> Currently:
> 
> KL1 Style LED Head Unit in HA Black
> KL1 Style LED Head Unit in HA Natural
> Elite Head Unit in HA Black
> Elite Head Unit in HA Natural
> Smoothie Head Unit in HA Black
> Smoothie Head Unit in HA Natural
> Stainless Steel Bezel in Flat, Crenelated, Defender Styles
> QPQ Black Stainless Steel Bezel in Flat, Crenelated, Defender Styles
> Titanium Bezel in Defender Style
> Elite/KL1/KL4 Optical Coated UCL Replacement Lens
> KX1/KX2 Optical Coated UCL Replacement Lens
> Rounded Flat E 1 Cell Body in HA Black
> Rounded Flat E 2 Cell Body in HA Black
> Z52 in HA Black
> Z52 in HA Natural
> Z52 in Old School Glossy Black
> Z52 GITD Boot
> Z52 Hunter Orange Boot
> Z57/61/E2T/EDCL1/EDCL2 Slim Tailcap Shroud in Stainless Steel
> Z57/61/E2T/EDCL1/EDCL2 Slim Tailcap Shroud in QPQ Black Stainless Steel
> Z57/61/E2T/EDCL1/EDCL2 Tailstanding Tailcap Shroud in Stainless Steel
> Z57/61/E2T/EDCL1/EDCL2 Tailstanding Tailcap Shroud in QPQ Black Stainless Steel
> E to C Adapter in HA Black
> E to C Adapter in HA Natural
> 1 Way Clip (Short)
> 1 Way Clip (Long)
> Tactician Style Clip
> 2 Way Clip (Short)
> 2 Way Clip (Long)
> 
> 
> Upcoming items in the near future:
> 
> KL4 Style LED Head Units in HA Black
> KL4 Style LED Head Unit in HA Natural
> New Version of our Teardrop Style LED Head Unit, we finally managed to get the teardrop to look EXACTLY the same as Surefire's original which is something I wanted to do years ago but failed.
> Z57 McClicky Tailcap in HA Natural
> Z61 McClicky Tailcap in HA Black
> Z68 McClicky Tailcap in HA Natural, (Flat and Defender)
> Z57/61/68 GITD Boot
> Z57/61/68 Hunter Orange Boot
> E2T Tactician McClicky Tailcap in HA Black
> E2T Tactician McClicky Tailcap in HA Natural
> E2T/EDCL1/EDCL2 GITD Boot
> E2T/EDCL1/EDCL2 Hunter Orange Boot
> A New E1 Body (18350 ready)
> A New E2 Body (18650 ready)
> A D26/P60 Head Unit for the E Series
> Improved versions of the titanium clips
> E2T-MV Tactician 2 way clip
> 
> Some more stuff down the road as well, but they are a bit too far off to mention now.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Thanks Mark, that's a huge help. Great news about the 18x50 bodies as well!

Cheers

Dave


----------



## ma tumba

One thing which would be my number one priority is unfortunately missing: an 18500/AA body. If such a body, shaped similarly to e1/e2 would emerge, it would stimulate better 1.2v+3.7v driver offerings and eventually we would have a sorely needed travel eseries option


----------



## id30209

I agree with ma tumba. Although it’s Fivemega body you can see the proportions


----------



## bykfixer

18650 ready? 

Nice!! :thumbsup:

Lumens Factory does it again.


----------



## ma tumba

It just occurred to me that the tail portion of the body can be bored for an AA cell, there is about the same amount of meat left as when the main part of the body is bored for 18350. 

Then what we need is to replace the tailcap guts for a ZEROREZ type all metal terminator (no switch) and voila - we have an AA twisty. 

A good thing is that we can still use 16340 with a stock tailcap


----------



## thermal guy

OFF THE TOP OF HIS HEAD😂😂😂😂. I literally can’t remember why I just went into a room! And he just wrote out war an piece😁😂


----------



## Tachead

Awesome stuff as usual Mark, keep up the good work[emoji106]. I just placed another order and already have stuff in my cart for another lol.

Hey, do you happen to have an approximate eta for the long 2-way Tactician clips? 

Also, is there plans for HA Black Z68's(Regular & Defender) too?

Might I also suggest you consider making an E-Series tailcap similar to Oveready's C-Series... 

https://www.oveready.com/flashlight/custom-aluminum-dpc-tailcap-with-silver-clip/ 

with a clip built in as no one makes such a thing that I am aware of. I think it would make a great addition to the available E tailcap. Another idea might be to make a clip that fits the Tacticial style tailcap you have in the works in effect turning it into what I am talking about. You would just have to figure out a way to stop it from turning and stay in one orientation. 

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

Sorry about the slight delay in replying you guys, but it has been real busy with end-of-year stuff and upcoming releases.

About the 18500 E bodies, I agree that it would make a perfect EDC as I think the size is perfect.
So I will look into getting a prototype made.

There are plans for Z68 in both styles. But I have modified the design a bit so it will be more interesting and user friendly.
They are already in the works.

Yes, Tachead. I have been looking into the 2 way tactician clip and did a couple prototypes, but I was not happy with them.
So I have abandoned the thought of making a clip for the clip slot and instead going for a clip that will be placed on the E2T Tailcap.
It is a similar design as the link you placed actually, great minds think alike. 

I have a bunch of new products here that is waiting to be released actually, so 2020 will definitely be a fun year.
I am leaving for Japan for some much needed R&R with the wife, new products will be released after I come back.

Happy New Year Everyone, wishing you guys all the best in 2020.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Dave Huck

Thanks for the update Mark. Happy New Year to you and your family, I Hope you have a good break!

Dave


----------



## Tachead

Yes, thanks for the update Mark and have a great vacation with your family[emoji106]. 

Happy New Year! 

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

Hi Guys,

The Aluminum HA3 Black Crenelated Bezels are finally done.
All the heads has been updated to have this bezel available.






Also, I posted the Vital Gear FB2 NOS sealed packages on the site as well.
Only 39 pcs available, so get them while they last.






Cheers.

Mark


----------



## pilo7448

Got one.. Ty! 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## bykfixer

The Vital Gear were so lightweight and easy to like. 

Good lookin' out Lumens Factory. Thank you.


----------



## DayofReckoning

Has anyone tried using the smooth reflector in the E series head? I revieved mine, and I've tried several different incandescent bulbs, including lumensfactory bulbs, and with every one the beam resembles an out of focus maglite, with a giant donut hole in the center of the beam. Horrible. 

Am I missing something here?


----------



## DayofReckoning

After a little experimation, it appears that I may have to use sometype of shims in order to get my bulbs to focus properly. I wish this information was listed on the Lumensfactory website, as I was led to believe things would work fine straight out of the box.


----------



## wacbzz

Is there any ETA on those 18650 E-series bodies?


----------



## id30209

Mark nailed it again


----------



## [email protected]

DayofReckoning said:


> After a little experimation, it appears that I may have to use sometype of shims in order to get my bulbs to focus properly. I wish this information was listed on the Lumensfactory website, as I was led to believe things would work fine straight out of the box.



That was what I was referring to when I first prototyped the reflectors with mirror finish plating.
I found the reason why Surefire Orange Peeled the reflectors of the E Series so heavily, it was to mask the fact that the shallow reflectors could not focus the lamps.

That was also the main reason it took me so long to release these heads.
I tried to improve/correct the arc of the reflector and over 15 attempts which took over a year, it could not be done due to the limited space. (how shallow the reflectors were designed)

I had 2 routes, make the head longer so I can use a deeper reflector which I do not want as I wanted a faithful reproduction at least on the exterior design.
There are enough long E Series Heads out there and Surefire seems to want to make new E Heads longer and longer, so I wanted a back to basic head.
The newer E Series are all front heavy lights due to longer and heavier head units.
The second was to release them in orange peel reflector ONLY, which will solve the problem the same way Surefire has done.

But I decided to release them as I intended them to be released, interchangeable reflectors with Orange Peel and Mirror Finish reflectors to choose from.
I know full well the Mirror Finish reflectors' focus is not that great, but I honestly did everything I can on these.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

wacbzz said:


> Is there any ETA on those 18650 E-series bodies?



Not yet, but it is scheduled to be released within this year.
Aiming for the 2nd quarter.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## DayofReckoning

[email protected] said:


> That was what I was referring to when I first prototyped the reflectors with mirror finish plating.
> I found the reason why Surefire Orange Peeled the reflectors of the E Series so heavily, it was to mask the fact that the shallow reflectors could not focus the lamps.
> 
> That was also the main reason it took me so long to release these heads.
> I tried to improve/correct the arc of the reflector and over 15 attempts which took over a year, it could not be done due to the limited space. (how shallow the reflectors were designed)
> 
> I had 2 routes, make the head longer so I can use a deeper reflector which I do not want as I wanted a faithful reproduction at least on the exterior design.
> There are enough long E Series Heads out there and Surefire seems to want to make new E Heads longer and longer, so I wanted a back to basic head.
> The newer E Series are all front heavy lights due to longer and heavier head units.
> The second was to release them in orange peel reflector ONLY, which will solve the problem the same way Surefire has done.
> 
> But I decided to release them as I intended them to be released, interchangeable reflectors with Orange Peel and Mirror Finish reflectors to choose from.
> I know full well the Mirror Finish reflectors' focus is not that great, but I honestly did everything I can on these.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark




Mark, I appreciate your explanation. Let me say that I do appreciate that you decided to release the smooth reflector rather than just give up on it. Having owned the reflector for around 10 days now, and playing around with many different lamps, homemade shims, etc, I do have some feedback for you. But I do have a few issues as well. 

There is a pretty big difference, at least in my mind, between "focus is not that great" and the actual reality of reflector, which is something that doesn't focus *at all*. I don't except a perfect beam from a smooth reflector, especially one using an incandescent lamp. There are going to be shadows and filament artifacts now matter what. The problem​ is when testing both an EO-E1R, a HO-E2R lamp, a Surefire MN03, as well as a Tad's custom bi pin adapter with multiple different bulbs, there's a giant donut hole in the beam. It is far outside of the range of "being a bit out of focus", it's bad, real bad. Bad enough that I consider the reflector "non functional".

With all due respect, if this reflector took 15 attempts that spanned over a year in development, I personally find it hard to believe that anyone could have spend that kind of time in R&D, then inserted a lamp module in final testing, looked at how it performed, and said "This is good enough to release". And it's not that it's just "a little off". ​It's broken. It does not function properly straight out of the box. 

Now on a positive note. After some experimentation, I was able to make some homemade shims that did allow me to properly focus the bulb. The end result is an EXCELLENT beam. But it does take some fiddling with to get it perfect. The small round stickers that LF uses on the base of their lamps to identify what the lamp is? Well, I was able to take one of those, trace some out on thick paper and cut several small discs out so that I have paper "rings" I can slide over the lamp assembly. I imagine as a manufacturer that it probably wouldn't be that difficult to produce a few small rings or discs like I described to include with the reflector.

At one point I did consider swapping in the included orange peel reflector, then I realized that the Orange peeling is heavier on my sample than the stock surefire reflector, resulting in even more output loss and less throw. :thinking: 

Oh, and the lens O-ring on my sample has a cracked and dry rotted o-ring straight out of the box as well. Is that covered by warranty?

Also, I think a disclaimer on the website page showing that the smooth reflector actually doesn't function with incandescent lamps without modification might be appropriate as well, as it might save someone the frustration of what I just experienced, that being spending what I consider to be a sizeable amount of money for something that is advertised to work but in reality doesn't.

Crude screenshot of HO-E2R. The out of focus is worse in physical appearance than the image suggests. The EO-E1R is a worse offender if memory recalls correctly. Really don't feel like swapping out more lamps and taking more screen shots though, 10 days of fiddling with this thing :sigh:


----------



## ampdude

DayofReckoning, which E-series head did you buy specifically? Did you get the orange peel reflector as well? I was hoping these would just be orange peel like the original and not interchangeable reflectors.


----------



## [email protected]

ampdude said:


> DayofReckoning, which E-series head did you buy specifically? Did you get the orange peel reflector as well? I was hoping these would just be orange peel like the original and not interchangeable reflectors.



He brought the Incandescent E Series Head Unit, it has an interchangeable reflectors design.


----------



## [email protected]

DayofReckoning said:


> Mark, I appreciate your explanation. Let me say that I do appreciate that you decided to release the smooth reflector rather than just give up on it. Having owned the reflector for around 10 days now, and playing around with many different lamps, homemade shims, etc, I do have some feedback for you. But I do have a few issues as well.
> 
> There is a pretty big difference, at least in my mind, between "focus is not that great" and the actual reality of reflector, which is something that doesn't focus *at all*. I don't except a perfect beam from a smooth reflector, especially one using an incandescent lamp. There are going to be shadows and filament artifacts now matter what. The problem​ is when testing both an EO-E1R, a HO-E2R lamp, a Surefire MN03, as well as a Tad's custom bi pin adapter with multiple different bulbs, there's a giant donut hole in the beam. It is far outside of the range of "being a bit out of focus", it's bad, real bad. Bad enough that I consider the reflector "non functional".
> 
> With all due respect, if this reflector took 15 attempts that spanned over a year in development, I personally find it hard to believe that anyone could have spend that kind of time in R&D, then inserted a lamp module in final testing, looked at how it performed, and said "This is good enough to release". And it's not that it's just "a little off". ​It's broken. It does not function properly straight out of the box.
> 
> Now on a positive note. After some experimentation, I was able to make some homemade shims that did allow me to properly focus the bulb. The end result is an EXCELLENT beam. But it does take some fiddling with to get it perfect. The small round stickers that LF uses on the base of their lamps to identify what the lamp is? Well, I was able to take one of those, trace some out on thick paper and cut several small discs out so that I have paper "rings" I can slide over the lamp assembly. I imagine as a manufacturer that it probably wouldn't be that difficult to produce a few small rings or discs like I described to include with the reflector.
> 
> At one point I did consider swapping in the included orange peel reflector, then I realized that the Orange peeling is heavier on my sample than the stock surefire reflector, resulting in even more output loss and less throw. :thinking:
> 
> Oh, and the lens O-ring on my sample has a cracked and dry rotted o-ring straight out of the box as well. Is that covered by warranty?
> 
> Also, I think a disclaimer on the website page showing that the smooth reflector actually doesn't function with incandescent lamps without modification might be appropriate as well, as it might save someone the frustration of what I just experienced, that being spending what I consider to be a sizeable amount of money for something that is advertised to work but in reality doesn't.
> 
> Crude screenshot of HO-E2R. The out of focus is worse in physical appearance than the image suggests. The EO-E1R is a worse offender if memory recalls correctly. Really don't feel like swapping out more lamps and taking more screen shots though, 10 days of fiddling with this thing :sigh:



Thank you for your feedback, I will look into ways to improve the focus when I get back in the office on the 29th.

I have PM'ed you on the replacement O-ring.

Thank you.

Mark


----------



## ampdude

Makes me wonder if any original Surefire reflectors were hiding a hole in the beam because of the orange peel. I don't remember seeing any on the incan side, but everyone knows of the famous KL4 "donut hole" that the original Luxeon 5 equipped Surefire L4 Lumamax lights had. And that was an orange peel reflector.


----------



## DayofReckoning

[email protected] said:


> Thank you for your feedback, I will look into ways to improve the focus when I get back in the office on the 29th.
> 
> I have PM'ed you on the replacement O-ring.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Mark



Thank you Mark. I appreciate that. FWIW, the reflector does indeed produce a very good beam. It's just needs to be shimmed a little, as the bulb is sitting too far forward in the bezel. Once you get it shimmed to the proper height, the result is very good. 



ampdude said:


> Makes me wonder if any original Surefire reflectors were hiding a hole in the beam because of the orange peel. I don't remember seeing any on the incan side, but everyone knows of the famous KL4 "donut hole" that the original Luxeon 5 equipped Surefire L4 Lumamax lights had. And that was an orange peel reflector.



Based upon my own experience, my best guess would probably be NO. One thing I did learn back when I was doing some experimentation with sputtering different reflectors is, it doesn't take very much "orange peel" at all to smooth out a beam. 

I obviously am in no position to question the engineers at Surefire who designed their reflectors over the years, but based upon my own observations, it seemed like many Surefire reflectors I've come across seemed pretty heavy on the orange peeling. In fact, I've seen two of the same lights, but from different years, have completely different levels of orange peeling. So obviously Surefire some experimation over the years. 

Another thing I never understood is why they choose to frost the tip of all their bulbs. Mark has proven with his lumens factory lamps that a frosted tip is not required to produce a nice, smooth hotspot. It certainly helps to smooth things out, but also cuts output and throw.

The heavy orange peeling on reflectors and frosted tips on bulbs were probably the result of Surefire's highest priority being beam quality.


----------



## DayofReckoning

A huge improvement, no doubt. The reason why mutiple rings are needed is different types of bulb have small variations on size. The very shallow reflector of the E series doesn't give you any wiggle room at all, it has to be precise. But as you can see, taking the time to shim it just right makes all the difference.











As said, I am very pleased with the result. You gain a substantial amount of intensity in the beam, the throw is greatly improved, and you still have a great amount of spill.

The downside? The shallow reflector doesn't allow you any margin of error. You have to have it shimmed just right, which can be pain, maybe not so much if one had proper shims.


----------



## id30209

@MarkLF I wanted to suggest to include with every head copper spacer or two like Tad is doing when buying M3/4 bulb holders. 
That will sort all the fuss about proper focus


----------



## [email protected]

DayofReckoning said:


> The downside? The shallow reflector doesn't allow you any margin of error. You have to have it shimmed just right, which can be pain, maybe not so much if one had proper shims.



Thanks for the detailed feedback, DayofReckoning.
I came to the same conclusion when I was developing the head, the shallow reflector is very unforgiving.
But it never occur to me to include "tuning shims" in the unit, which seems to be a great idea that went completely over my head.

What I am thinking is, instead of shimming it on the lamp module I could shim it at the bottom of the reflector which will basically do the same thing.
But it will stay in place and not fall out while changing batteries and modules.
I'll have to do some testings tomorrow to see if it will work.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

id30209 said:


> @MarkLF I wanted to suggest to include with every head copper spacer or two like Tad is doing when buying M3/4 bulb holders.
> That will sort all the fuss about proper focus



Yes, it is a great idea indeed.
I never knew Tad include these in his kits, it is definitely something I can include in the heads as well.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Hi Guys,

Just released a bunch of stuff today including:

Grip Rings:

1. "C" Grip Rings for C2, C3, M2
2. "Z Grip Rings for all Z Grip lights such as Z2, Z3, M3, M3T, AZ2, AZ2-S, G2Z, G2ZX






Tailcap Boots

1. Z57, Z61, Z68 Tailcap Boots
2. Z62 (A2, A2 LED, L1, L2, LX2, AZ2, AZ2-S, K2, Kroma, V2) Tailcap Boots
3. E2T-MV, EDCL1-T, EDCL2-T Tailcap Boots






Tailcaps

1. Z57 / Z61 Tailcaps with McClicky internals in HA3 Natural and HA3 Black
2. E2T Style Tailcaps with McClicky internals and Lanyard Ring in HA3 Natural and HA3 Black







Thanks for all the support, guys. 


Mark


----------



## akula88

[email protected] said:


> Hi Guys,
> <snip>
> Tailcaps
> 
> 1. Z57 / Z61 Tailcaps with McClicky internals in HA3 Natural and HA3 Black
> 2. E2T Style Tailcaps with McClicky internals and Lanyard Ring in HA3 Natural and HA3 Black
> 
> ... Mark



Mark, are you offering McClicky internals to convert the original SF E2T (twisty) into clicky?


----------



## [email protected]

akula88 said:


> Mark, are you offering McClicky internals to convert the original SF E2T (twisty) into clicky?



No, the original SF E2T (twisty) internals cannot fit the McClicky internals without modding (involves drilling and milling) the inside of the housing which will be irreversible if the user wish to turn it back to the stock twisty.
So we decided make the E2T Style tailcap that you see in the photo. 


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## bykfixer

I really like the lanyard ring.


----------



## thermal guy

Dam! So do I. Well I guess a few more toys won’t kill me😁


----------



## [email protected]

Hey Guys,

This is our new version Classic Teardrop Head Unit.








This new version head has improved dimensions and anodization than the old version teardrop heads.

What's exciting is that we finally managed to get the teardrop shape to look 100% like the Classic Surefire's teardrop on their old E Series heads.
Which was our initial intention years ago, but failed to do.
It took us nearly a year of trial and error and a lot of prototyping, but we finally got it.










Currently available in HA3 Natural.
HA3 Black will be available in the near future.


Thanks for the support, guys.

Cheers.


Mark


----------



## [email protected]

So after hearing DayofReckoning's findings and suggestions, we have decided to make some brass tuning shims so the user can fine tune the focus of the beam.

We made them in brass, they are 0.1mm thick.
5 pcs. will be included in each E Series Elite or Smoothie Head Units starting from today.
The user can therefore adjust the focus from 0.1-0.5mm which should be more than enough to fine tune the focus of our E Series Incandescent and LED Assemblies as well as Surefire's MN Series lamps.
Dimensions of the shims are 18.5mm diameter with a 6.5mm center hole.

I would like to thank DayofReckoning and all the CPFers who provided the insight and feedbacks.
The support from you guys is what drives us forward.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## DayofReckoning

They look great Mark! Absolutely perfect, exactly what I envisioned. 

I've had a bit of time now to compare the LF E Series Head/smooth reflector combo, with properly tuned focus of course, to various other lights, and want to take a moment again to emphesise would good it really is.

Because of the unique combination of a shallow reflector, a mirror finish, and the throwing ability of the incandescent filament, what you get is a massively wide spill combined with a large, round, intense hotspot that really, really throws for it's size. It's the definition of "punching above one's weight class".

Thanks to the newly supplied rings, dialing in that perfect focus will be easy.


----------



## thermal guy

Now THIS is a stand up company!!!


----------



## ampdude

I really like the looks of that new classic teardrop head. Should be an obvious improvement over the original which only came with lexan glass.

And I'm glad the pocket clip is no longer a part of it either.

Mark, what type of window are you using with this head? I hope it's something durable like pyrex/borofloat, or even hardened mineral glass. Just don't want to see lexan or UCL on any serious use tools of mine.


----------



## DayofReckoning

ampdude said:


> I really like the looks of that new classic teardrop head. Should be an obvious improvement over the original which only came with lexan glass.
> 
> And I'm glad the pocket clip is no longer a part of it either.
> 
> Mark, what type of window are you using with this head? I hope it's something durable like pyrex/borofloat, or even hardened mineral glass. Just don't want to see lexan or UCL on any serious use tools of mine.



It's UCL, but it's quite thick. I'm pretty obsessive compulsive in worrying about durability, and seeing the thickness, I have no concerns. I'm sure it's not as durable as pyrex, but it's decent.

The Anti reflective coatings are very good.


----------



## ampdude

When you clear anti reflective lenses the coatings wear off easily. And UCL is not very drop friendly. Thickness helps though.


----------



## 1313

Damn, very cool to see.


----------



## [email protected]

ampdude said:


> I really like the looks of that new classic teardrop head. Should be an obvious improvement over the original which only came with lexan glass.
> 
> And I'm glad the pocket clip is no longer a part of it either.
> 
> Mark, what type of window are you using with this head? I hope it's something durable like pyrex/borofloat, or even hardened mineral glass. Just don't want to see lexan or UCL on any serious use tools of mine.



Hi Ampdude,

The lens is tempered UCL, thickness is the same as the Surefire incan elite head’s lens so it is pretty thick.
It is quite durable and should be able to withstand hard use.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Tachead

ampdude said:


> I really like the looks of that new classic teardrop head. Should be an obvious improvement over the original which only came with lexan glass.
> 
> And I'm glad the pocket clip is no longer a part of it either.
> 
> Mark, what type of window are you using with this head? I hope it's something durable like pyrex/borofloat, or even hardened mineral glass. Just don't want to see lexan or UCL on any serious use tools of mine.


For starters, Lexan is not glass it is plastic/polymer(Polycarbonate to be specific). 

Second, SF uses borofloat glass(Pyrex) on most if not all of their lights.

Third, many of the toughest flashlight makers on the planet(Malkoff Devices & Elzetta for instance) use Lexan lenses as they are generally much stronger in impact and shatter resistance then glass ones(think hockey board glass so to speak). They aren't as resilient when it comes to scratch resistance but, a lot of this can be mitigated or even overcome with the use of a good hardcoat scratch resistant coating(lab made diamond can even be applied albeit expensive).

UCL can be plenty strong too if the right thickness, temper, and quality is used. All the same coatings can be applied and it generally has the best light transmission. 


Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk


----------



## ampdude

Mark, I know there was a lot of variation in E-series heads and bulb geometry and level of orange peel on reflectors, but I don't believe it was because the MN series lamps were impossible to focus on the D26 head and that Surefire was trying to hide that fact. I'm sure it did hide a lot of the variations in manufacturing though. I have totally seen that through my own observations.



Tachead said:


> For starters, Lexan is not glass it is plastic/polymer(Polycarbonate to be specific).
> 
> Second, SF uses borofloat glass(Pyrex) on most if not all of their lights.
> 
> Third, many of the toughest flashlight makers on the planet(Malkoff Devices & Elzetta for instance) use Lexan lenses as they are generally much stronger in impact and shatter resistance then glass ones(think hockey board glass so to speak). They aren't as resilient when it comes to scratch resistance but, a lot of this can be mitigated or even overcome with the use of a good hardcoat scratch resistant coating(lab made diamond can even be applied albeit expensive).
> 
> UCL can be plenty strong too if the right thickness, temper, and quality is used. All the same coatings can be applied and it generally has the best light transmission.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk



First, I know Lexan is not glass, and if you read my previous numerous posts on the subject you would see that. I meant to say window, not glass.
Second, Pyrex is a brand and Borofloat is a material. Surefire no longer used the Pyrex brand beyond a certain point because other manufactures could provide Borofloat glass more cheaply.
Third, I don't care who uses Lexan lenses these days or in the past either, because I am oriented towards incans, so I'm mostly concerned about heat durability and scratch resistance.

If I have to replace a Surefire lens I always replace it with hardened mineral glass. But that's just my preference, your preference may serve your own purposes better than mine.


----------



## Tachead

ampdude said:


> Mark, I know there was a lot of variation in E-series heads and bulb geometry and level of orange peel on reflectors, but I don't believe it was because the MN series lamps were impossible to focus on the D26 head and that Surefire was trying to hide that fact. I'm sure it did hide a lot of the variations in manufacturing though. I have totally seen that through my own observations.
> 
> 
> 
> First, I know Lexan is not glass, and if you read my previous numerous posts on the subject you would see that. I meant to say window, not glass.
> Second, Pyrex is a brand and Borofloat is a material. Surefire no longer used the Pyrex brand beyond a certain point because other manufactures could provide Borofloat glass more cheaply.
> Third, I don't care who uses Lexan lenses these days or in the past either, because I am oriented towards incans, so I'm mostly concerned about heat durability and scratch resistance.
> 
> If I have to replace a Surefire lens I always replace it with hardened mineral glass. But that's just my preference, your preference may serve your own purposes better than mine.


Ok sorry, I was just going by what you said in the post I quoted.

Yes, I am well aware of that. That is why I put Pyrex in brackets behind boro lol.

Yep, it's common for companies to move away from a popular brand name as there is often a premium you pay for that name and often not much or a quality difference from other less known quality brands.

Well, Polycarbonate(Lexan for example) is definitely not as heat resistant as glass or sapphire so considering your application I understand. Scratch resistance can be a non-issue depending on the hardcoat coating applied as I said. With a synthetic diamond coating like used on some high end glasses, you will see better scratch resistance then even the hardest glass or sapphire as the lens is coated with a thin layer of diamond(one of the hardest substances known to man). It should also be pointed out that minor scratches in a flashlight lens(heck even deep ones) have very very little effect on beam quality and not much light transmission is lost. 

Yes, we all have our own preferences, wants, and needs. Hopefully you are able to find what suits yours[emoji106]. 

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk


----------



## ampdude

Yea, scratch resistance is not a huge issue with me on lexan. It usually doesn't scratch that easy. But it does scratch, and the lenses are much harder to replace and much fewer and far between on old Surefire lights especially. The light transmission with lexan is also a bit less. Most importantly to me, lexan not as heat resistant.


----------



## ampdude

And Mark, I also meant to say 19mm head, not D26, which as you know is a completely different thing. I'm cursed with being able to type faster than my pea brain thinks.


----------



## bykfixer

Bravo on the bulb tuner option. Old school going back pre-SureFire existence. Early Maglite replacement bulbs came with washers after Don Keller introduced the idea (again).
Burgess and others used a bulb retainer that could move the bulb forward or back via slider to tweak the beam. The Burgess Range Finder was probably the most noteable back then. 

Before that Franco and others used a 2 part threaded head set up where you could separate the head from the body and install a miner head (similar to SureFire turbo head) and the head itself could be twisted to move the reflector back and forth.

As always, Mark keeping it real (with credit to DoR).


----------



## Tachead

Hey Mark, any word on those bodies with longer threads for compatibility with the Tactician head? Are they still in the works or? 

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

ampdude said:


> And Mark, I also meant to say 19mm head, not D26, which as you know is a completely different thing. I'm cursed with being able to type faster than my pea brain thinks.



Hi Ampdude,

Yes, I agree with you.
It is definitely not impossible to get a perfect focus, but very difficult.
As DaysofReckoning has also found, the small and shallow elite incandescent reflector has a super tight tolerance on the focal point.
Which makes the manufacturing process of mass production lamp assemblies very difficult as the LCL tolerance is way too tight.
We are talking about plus or minus 0.1mm which is probably why they went with a somewhat heavier orange peel surface on the reflector.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

bykfixer said:


> Bravo on the bulb tuner option. Old school going back pre-SureFire existence. Early Maglite replacement bulbs came with washers after Don Keller introduced the idea (again).
> Burgess and others used a bulb retainer that could move the bulb forward or back via slider to tweak the beam. The Burgess Range Finder was probably the most noteable back then.
> 
> Before that Franco and others used a 2 part threaded head set up where you could separate the head from the body and install a miner head (similar to SureFire turbo head) and the head itself could be twisted to move the reflector back and forth.
> 
> As always, Mark keeping it real (with credit to DoR).



Hi bykfixer,

Wow, I never knew this.
It is great information to know indeed.

Thank you for sharing it with us and also thank you for your support.

Cheers.


Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Tachead said:


> Hey Mark, any word on those bodies with longer threads for compatibility with the Tactician head? Are they still in the works or?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk



Hi Tachead,

I have kinda scraped the idea of half-assing the existing designs to make it "also" work with the Tactician head.
I want to make small lot of dedicated bodies that are specially FOR the Tactician heads, which will avoid people that don't use the tactician heads to have a large gap between the head unit and the body due to the increased length of the threads.

I will not make 2 cell Tactician head bodies which are already available from SF, I am looking into the possibility of 1 cell, 1 x 14500 and 2 x AA Sized bodies.

We are aiming to get these ready within the year
Have to see how the prototypes turns out, I'll keep you and the guys updated so no worries.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## knucklegary

Mark, 

I viewed on FB you recently fabricated Delrin adaptor sleeves.. 

Did you do a run of 2x AA Delrin sleeves for both 17 & 18mm bores?

Btw, photos looks very clean machining!

Thx,
G


----------



## [email protected]

knucklegary said:


> Mark,
> 
> I viewed on FB you recently fabricated Delrin adaptor sleeves..
> 
> Did you do a run of 2x AA Delrin sleeves for both 17 & 18mm bores?
> 
> Btw, photos looks very clean machining!
> 
> Thx,
> G




Hi knucklegary,

Thank you for your nice comments.
Yes, we have spent some time on making the machining nice on those Delrin sleeves.

Hmm, you are not the only person who asked me this.
I will look into the possibility to make some 18mm 2 x AA sleeves, but 17mm ones would probably be way too small a market maybe?


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ampdude

I've always wanted some delrin sleeves for 18mm bodies to fit CR123A batteries in order to increase reliability and prevent battery rattle. Is that what is available? That would be great.

I've especially been looking for 2 x 18500 size. This would make a three cell 18mm body more compatible with CR123A's.


----------



## knucklegary

Mark 

AA to 18mm would be highest demand
Albeit most of us could use a couple 17mm sleeves as well for stock bore SF bodies 

Ampdude, check out Marks website I believe he has the CR123 (17mm) to 18mm bore. You might have to cut one sleeve down to fit a 3x tube


----------



## ampdude

knucklegary said:


> Mark
> 
> AA to 18mm would be highest demand
> Albeit most of us could use a couple 17mm sleeves as well for stock bore SF bodies
> 
> Ampdude, check out Marks website I believe he has the CR123 (17mm) to 18mm bore. You might have to cut one sleeve down to fit a 3x tube



I would think not 18mm, but instead 17mm (stock bore) to AA/14500 would be a higher demand since there a lot more stock bodies out there and less and less incentive or reasoning to modify classic Surefire lights.

But for my own uses, I'm mostly interested in using CR123A's in 3 cell sized 18mm bodies with reliability and no battery rattle.

I basically use 17500's in my stock 3 cell Surefires when not running primaries.


----------



## [email protected]

ampdude said:


> I would think not 18mm, but instead 17mm (stock bore) to AA/14500 would be a higher demand since there a lot more stock bodies out there and less and less incentive or reasoning to modify classic Surefire lights.
> 
> But for my own uses, I'm mostly interested in using CR123A's in 3 cell sized 18mm bodies with reliability and no battery rattle.
> 
> I basically use 17500's in my stock 3 cell Surefires when not running primaries.




Hi ampdude,

We currently have 2 cell and 3 cell 18mm CR123 Delrin sleeves available.

It seems that both 17mm and 18mm AA delrin sleeves has certain demands, I'll look into making a small run of these.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Tachead

[email protected] said:


> Hi Tachead,
> 
> I have kinda scraped the idea of half-assing the existing designs to make it "also" work with the Tactician head.
> I want to make small lot of dedicated bodies that are specially FOR the Tactician heads, which will avoid people that don't use the tactician heads to have a large gap between the head unit and the body due to the increased length of the threads.
> 
> I will not make 2 cell Tactician head bodies which are already available from SF, I am looking into the possibility of 1 cell, 1 x 14500 and 2 x AA Sized bodies.
> 
> We are aiming to get these ready within the year
> Have to see how the prototypes turns out, I'll keep you and the guys updated so no worries.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark


Thanks Mark, those are some cool options(especially the 2xaa as the SF ones are getting real hard to find). Kind of a bummer on no two cell body though as the reason some of us want another body is to be able to use a 2-way long clip. In that case, still no plans for a 2-way clip to fit the wider channel on the Tactician body? Thanks again for all your hard work[emoji106]. 

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk


----------



## Swedpat

I find the Teardrop heads very interesting. The idea to boost up my Surefire E-models with suiting designed heads is attractive.
Apologize if I have not the time or strength to read through almost 600 posts, and wonder if there is any review or runtime graphs done of them?


----------



## pilo7448

Just threw this together.. Lumens Factory head and tailcap with Surefire e1d body and an E1-led single mode dropin, I gotta to give props to Lumens Factory you guys are making great parts[emoji108]









Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## knucklegary

Greetings Mark

Haven't heard from you in awhile.. 
Just checkin to see how HK is dealing with Covid-19 pandemic?

Hope all is well, and stay safe!


----------



## Jimmyboots

Hope all is well over there in HK. Put together a little blaster using your E1 body and malkoff parts. 









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

Tachead said:


> Thanks Mark, those are some cool options(especially the 2xaa as the SF ones are getting real hard to find). Kind of a bummer on no two cell body though as the reason some of us want another body is to be able to use a 2-way long clip. In that case, still no plans for a 2-way clip to fit the wider channel on the Tactician body? Thanks again for all your hard work[emoji106].
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk



Well, we have made several prototypes on the Tactician 2 way clip and decided that we should use a different approach at this.
It's still in the works so no worries.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

pilo7448 said:


> Just threw this together.. Lumens Factory head and tailcap with Surefire e1d body and an E1-led single mode dropin, I gotta to give props to Lumens Factory you guys are making great parts[emoji108]



Awesome setup pilo7448, looks great and I like the purplish light lighting the background.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## pilo7448

[email protected] said:


> Awesome setup pilo7448, looks great and I like the purplish light lighting the background.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark


The light was just my TV on Pandora.. Lol, ty.. 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

knucklegary said:


> Greetings Mark
> 
> Haven't heard from you in awhile..
> Just checkin to see how HK is dealing with Covid-19 pandemic?
> 
> Hope all is well, and stay safe!



Thank you, knucklegary.
We are doing okay at the moment, surviving the plague like everyone else around the world.
Hope this thing is over as soon as possible so everyone can get back to their normal lives. 

Postal service has shut down, so we can't ship packages the usual way.
Fortunately, we can still use FedEx to ship to the US, Canada, Japan, UK and Germany.
But our eBay shop is closed and I am manually processing orders at the Lumens Factory Online Shop because shipping rates are vastly different every order.

Hope everyone is healthy and safe.
God Bless.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Jimmyboots said:


> Hope all is well over there in HK. Put together a little blaster using your E1 body and malkoff parts.



Cool setup, Jimmyboots!
Is that the Triad tailcap? Love the style of the overall setup that you have got there. 

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Anto

Ay beamshots of the kl4 module?


----------



## Dave D

Has there been any update on a 17500/18500 E series body?


----------



## scout24

EDC update- I got my black single cell body and 2-way clip from LF at the end of July last year. Pics with a Tana head are here in the thread. Z68 Clicky w/McClicky is now installed. I love the stealth no-lettering look of the LF bodies, it really grew on me. Dozens and dozens of battery changes and a ton of pocket time later, the body (and clip) looks and works like new. Thanks again for making these!!!


----------



## [email protected]

Dave D said:


> Has there been any update on a 17500/18500 E series body?



Probably gonna be 4th quarter at the earlist, Dave.
Production has been slowed down quite a bit and there are a lot of projects queued up.


----------



## [email protected]

scout24 said:


> EDC update- I got my black single cell body and 2-way clip from LF at the end of July last year. Pics with a Tana head are here in the thread. Z68 Clicky w/McClicky is now installed. I love the stealth no-lettering look of the LF bodies, it really grew on me. Dozens and dozens of battery changes and a ton of pocket time later, the body (and clip) looks and works like new. Thanks again for making these!!!



Thank you so much for your support scout24.
It really means a lot to me that you guys liked our products.

Some new products released today, the much missed 1 cell extenders and we finally got the black version of the teardrop heads done.
Last but not least, the Pineapple E Bodies.
Available in HA3 Natural (Finally) and HA3 Black in 1 cell and 2 cell configurations.













Hope you guys like them.

Stay Safe and God Bless.


Mark


----------



## marco.weiss

really awesome!
but, where is the clip?
what clip can be used?


----------



## rearmount

Those pineapple bodies look great! To echo marco above, would be nice to see if a clip could be used as well.


----------



## euroken

Looks great.

Personal opinion, clip on pineapple body would be a terrible idea


----------



## [email protected]

marco.weiss said:


> really awesome!
> but, where is the clip?
> what clip can be used?



Hi Marco, 

Thank you for the nice comments.
These has no clip and were not designed to have one.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## pilo7448

I agree with euroken.. Clean no clip

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


----------



## marco.weiss

[email protected] said:


> These has no clip and were not designed to have one.
> Mark



Tks.
No problem.
Great product as well.


----------



## LiftdT4R

Very awesome!! I just ordered some parts for an E series I'm putting together and I see I'll be ordering a few more soon. Thanks for continuing to support the E series!


----------



## Roger Sully

Cant go wrong with any of the LF E series accessories!


----------



## Icarus

[email protected] said:


> ....Some new products released today....Last but not least, the Pineapple E Bodies.








The pineapple bodies are very nice but to shine they need a bigger head an another switch. :duck:


----------



## [email protected]

Hey Guys,

Just got some new stuff done that might be of interest.


Brass and Copper Flat and Cren Bezels for Elite and early KL1, KL4 heads.
















P60 to E Head Units in HA3 Natural and HA3 Black.
No more E to C Adapters and Z44 Head Unit to use your P60 modules on E Series lights!!














Hope you guys like them.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## pilo7448

Dam you Mark!.. Lol

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## double_r76

Mark,

Can we see a shot of the new P60 to E-series head units one of the 2-cell pineapple bodies? That might be my next order!

Thanks!
Randy


----------



## ma tumba

These p60 heads, looks like the rim is less tall than that of a z44, so the beam should be broader. Is this the case?


----------



## akula88

Wow, Mark! P60 head for E series!

Too bad our postal system is still on freeze-mode. They have yet to deliver my previous order 

-----------

Any timetable for the 18xxx E-series bodies?


----------



## akula88

ma tumba said:


> These p60 heads, looks like the rim is less tall than that of a z44, so the beam should be broader. Is this the case?



I believe these are still P60 drop-in host. So drop-in's reflectors are the factor.

~~~ vvv


[email protected] said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> P60 to E Head Units in HA3 Natural and HA3 Black.
> No more E to C Adapters and Z44 Head Unit to use your P60 modules on E Series lights!!
> 
> Hope you guys like them.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark


----------



## ma tumba

akula88 said:


> I believe these are still P60 drop-in host. So drop-in's reflectors are the factor.
> 
> ~~~ vvv



out of a drop-in the beam is much broader than that of the drop-in in a z44, you can try and see.


----------



## DayofReckoning

These heads are a seriously "Why didn't I think of that?" type moment. Very innovative and superbly executed. It looks like the P60 dropins could possibly have a better spill profile than the Standard Z44 head, as the reflector almost appears like it sits further back into the bezel on a Z44.


----------



## akula88

[email protected] said:


> P60 to E Head Units in HA3 Natural and HA3 Black.
> No more E to C Adapters and Z44 Head Unit to use your P60 modules on E Series lights!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



Mark,

Do you have a photo on the battery-body end? 

How does the drop-in locks into the head unit -- is there a retainer nut or it just drop loose into it? How about the thermal path? :candle:

These new products do not appear yet on your online shop. 

Thanks.


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> These p60 heads, looks like the rim is less tall than that of a z44, so the beam should be broader. Is this the case?



Yes, I purposefully design it with a shorter rim to have less "covering" on the beam's edge which was alway the problem with the Z44 style heads.
So yes, the beam is boarder.
Another consideration of the design is to have a head that is as short and as light as possible, which will differentiate it further from the "E to C with a Z44 Head" setup.
I loosely followed the design of the Surefire A2's head unit so the head will blend in with the design of the E Series.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## euroken

woohooo!!! Thank you Mark!!


----------



## [email protected]

> woohooo!!! Thank you Mark!!



Wow, awesome setups, Ken. 
Thank you for your support.


----------



## [email protected]

double_r76 said:


> Mark,
> 
> Can we see a shot of the new P60 to E-series head units one of the 2-cell pineapple bodies? That might be my next order!
> 
> Thanks!
> Randy



Here you go, Randy.


----------



## pilo7448

Nice! 

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

akula88 said:


> Mark,
> Do you have a photo on the battery-body end?
> How does the drop-in locks into the head unit -- is there a retainer nut or it just drop loose into it? How about the thermal path? :candle:
> 
> These new products do not appear yet on your online shop.
> 
> Thanks.




Hi, 

The new P60 to E Head Units can be found under "Parts->Head Units".
Or you can just go to the "New Products" section and you should be able to find it.
The Brass and Copper bezels can be found under "Parts->Bezels" or as a bezel option on the Elite and Smoothir E Head Units.

The drop-in is placed inside the head unit, the negative spring on the module should fit it in place snugly.
In the event that the user has P60 modules that do not have the negative spring, we have included one for the user as part of the Lumens Factory P60 to E Head Unit.
This was thanks to Euroken who brought it up with me and I thank him for it.














The head unit is a tester unit laying on my desk with obvious scuff marks, so please don't mind that.

Cheers.


Mark


----------



## euroken

Hats off to Mark for another run of amazing products!!!


----------



## pilo7448

Agreed, I'm loving what your doing

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## double_r76

[email protected] said:


> Here you go, Randy.



That looks really good... thanks!


----------



## Pi_is_blue

euroken said:


> woohooo!!! Thank you Mark!!



Is that the Oveready E70 body? Looks like it was designed for that head!


----------



## euroken

Yes it is!


----------



## pilo7448

Is there an Ha natural E1 body in the future Mark? 

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## Pi_is_blue

euroken said:


> Yes it is!



That might just be my next light! Unless Mark has an update on the 18650 ready e-series bodies he mentioned some time ago...


----------



## ampdude

pilo7448 said:


> Is there an Ha natural E1 body in the future Mark?




If you're talking an actual E1 clone round body and not an E1e (with clip) two flats body, I'm all on board for that. A pure round E1 body in natural hard anodize with no pocket clip, with the original Surefire style knurling and anodizing would be amazing.


----------



## pilo7448

Agreed, we'll they offer all of the heads and tailcaps in nat I just thought it wouldn't be long. [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## ma tumba

Time to begin dreaming of similar short rim p60s for 6p bodies 

The reason is that p60 drop-ins have a lot more power capacity and there are c-tail compatible regulated switches as well as zero-rez twisties. But the z44 are no go to me because of the tunnel type beam

Currently, I use fivemega's 2x18350 and 3x18350 hosts. They have very shallow reflectors, hence wide beams, but they also have integrated t2 sockets, and powerful t2 bulbs are scarce these days. On the other hand, there are plenty g4 bulbs for p60 drop-ins let alone lumens factory own imr bulb.


----------



## LRJ88

Mark, would you consider making an e-series body with it just being a solid flat where the clip slides in and a screw hole to be able to mount a Covertec wheel, or something that can slide into the clip slot and fill the same function? I've been looking into doing something similar on my Tactician but there's no good way to do it without causing lasting damage to the body or it being very hard to restore if you use glue. I generally dislike using holsters but with this i can have a light on my belt without risking bending the clip and losing the light as well.


----------



## [email protected]

pilo7448 said:


> Is there an Ha natural E1 body in the future Mark?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk



Yes, most definately.


----------



## [email protected]

ampdude said:


> If you're talking an actual E1 clone round body and not an E1e (with clip) two flats body, I'm all on board for that. A pure round E1 body in natural hard anodize with no pocket clip, with the original Surefire style knurling and anodizing would be amazing.



It's in the works, Ampdude.
I am trying to make it 18350 (E1) and 18650 (E2) compatible, the prototypes are out but I am trying to improve the threads if possible.
If it doesn't work out, I'll just make it for CR123 like it always has been.

The E2 version can only use non-protect 18650 since the protected "18650" these days are more like 19700 and it will be too long and too thick to be able to go into the host.
Being too long will push the E module upwards and it will lose the negative contact which will make the light non-functional.
I can already foresee eBay people initiating returns because their 3500mAH "18650" will not fit in the host even if I put bold red letters in the description about non-protect 18650 ONLY.
Or they don't know anything about the batteries, but the light "just doesn't work".

Sometimes, I wish I am a battery manufacturer instead. Then I don't have to give a rats *** about keeping within the actual spec on outer dimensions at all.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## pilo7448

Rats ***.. Lol

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Time to begin dreaming of similar short rim p60s for 6p bodies
> 
> The reason is that p60 drop-ins have a lot more power capacity and there are c-tail compatible regulated switches as well as zero-rez twisties. But the z44 are no go to me because of the tunnel type beam
> 
> Currently, I use fivemega's 2x18350 and 3x18350 hosts. They have very shallow reflectors, hence wide beams, but they also have integrated t2 sockets, and powerful t2 bulbs are scarce these days. On the other hand, there are plenty g4 bulbs for p60 drop-ins let alone lumens factory own imr bulb.



I have never thought of that, I think it is a good idea.
A little "niche" since I think people outside of CPF or similar forums would not mind or even know the z44 produce a tunnel beam at all.

But I think a short rim head unit would be a great option to have.
It will have the short rim for boarder beam, the head will be shorter overall and lighter which will improve the balance of the light considerably.

I will look into this more and see if we can make something here.
Thanks for the idea Ma Tumba.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

LRJ88 said:


> Mark, would you consider making an e-series body with it just being a solid flat where the clip slides in and a screw hole to be able to mount a Covertec wheel, or something that can slide into the clip slot and fill the same function? I've been looking into doing something similar on my Tactician but there's no good way to do it without causing lasting damage to the body or it being very hard to restore if you use glue. I generally dislike using holsters but with this i can have a light on my belt without risking bending the clip and losing the light as well.



Hmm, I have never thought of that to be honest.
So using a Covertec wheel to hang the light on the belt like how those guys do it with their lightsabers is interesting and I think viable.
But wouldn't it be too exposed which might scratch or dent the light when you are not careful since the light is just hanging on the belt with nothing protecting it?

I am near completion of a deep pocket clip for the Tactician and E-Series, which should solve this problem.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## euroken

The idea isn't new. McGizmo used to these on the alephs.

Let me see if I can find some pics on the forums...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...ector-comments&p=641873&viewfull=1#post641873


----------



## LRJ88

[email protected] said:


> Hmm, I have never thought of that to be honest.
> So using a Covertec wheel to hang the light on the belt like how those guys do it with their lightsabers is interesting and I think viable.
> But wouldn't it be too exposed which might scratch or dent the light when you are not careful since the light is just hanging on the belt with nothing protecting it?
> 
> I am near completion of a deep pocket clip for the Tactician and E-Series, which should solve this problem.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



The scratching isn't worse than if you have it clipped to your belt or strapped to a bag, it'll be out in the open but it's close to your body and it won't bang around given it can only rotate. If it's something like for example the Tactician it's a pretty small flashlight and after clipping it on it'll follow your body so unless you're scraping against concrete etc. it won't really be more at risk than a phone, multimeter, radio, camera or such which also use similar systems. If it's something where you know you'll be in an environment where you'll be knocking against things a pocket or holster is still your best bet, but just for regular edc this could easily free up pocket space and deal with the "i accidentally turned the head to low" that i've had happen several times when pulling it out of my pocket.

If you'd consider it i'd be very grateful, it doesn't necessarily need to be more than a plate that slides down into the clip slot with a threaded hole in it to be able to put on a Covertec wheel, could use the tension from screwing the wheel on to help secure it in place too. You most likely know how i'm thinking already, or i could just slap together a sketch real quick.


----------



## ma tumba

Mark, since you are deep into p60 territory now, what about making nice bare p60 pills that would fit snugly at least your own p60 heads but also 6p hosts, if these two goals are compatible. I am pretty tired of the foil needed for a good thermal contact


----------



## bykfixer

Bravo Mark. 

More good stuff.


----------



## thermal guy

What the heck is a Covertec wheel? Is it just a Oversized hub on the body to stop the light from sliding out of a belt ring?


----------



## LRJ88

thermal guy said:


> What the heck is a Covertec wheel? Is it just a Oversized hub on the body to stop the light from sliding out of a belt ring?




This is a Covertec wheel and belt clip. The little wheel itself attaches to whatever you want and then it slides into the belt clip and is held securely until you press the tabs on the side and release it. They've been used for all manners of stuff for years but one of the main things they're known for today is as attachment points for lightsabers among cosplayers and just general people who are into that hobby. 

The system itself is sound and means you can have an attachment point that supports multiple tools as long as they have the wheel on them. The issue with attaching the wheel on most flashlights is that the safest way to attach them is to screw them in place, and not many flashlights have areas where you can drill into them to also give them the necessary balance.


----------



## thermal guy

Got it. Ya not what I was thinking. Doesn’t that wheel get in the way when your holding/using the light?


----------



## LRJ88

thermal guy said:


> Got it. Ya not what I was thinking. Doesn’t that wheel get in the way when your holding/using the light?



Not more than the pocket clip does, the footprint of the wheel itself isn't that big and when attached more directly to the body it'll be pretty slim. The main issue in all this is the attachment of it, other than that i don't see it being more in the way than the pocket clip itself can be over a larger area of body.

https://imgur.com/a/0nIZXgY

I had a look at how large the one i have would be on there, it'd be less obtrusive if just the wheel itself can be used.


----------



## akula88

[email protected] said:


> It's in the works, Ampdude.
> I am trying to make it 18350 (E1) and 18650 (E2) compatible, the prototypes are out but I am trying to improve the threads if possible.
> If it doesn't work out, I'll just make it for CR123 like it always has been.
> <...>
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Mark, are 17500/14500 bodies also in the pipeline? 

While the 16500/17500 battery supply have been quite limited, the increased capacity for the 14500 is making it a viable option vs the 16340, and with only a 16-18mm increase in length. Previous 14500 bodies such as Aleph, Balrog, etc... or even Malkoff AA are getting harder to find.

----
Also - although I'm in the minority -- are replacement clicky-type tailcap for the EDCL bodies also in the works?


----------



## cubebike

4 by cubebike2004, on Flickr



3 by cubebike2004, on Flickr


2 by cubebike2004, on Flickr


1 by cubebike2004, on Flickr

I got the Pineapple body and the P to E bezel today. Very impressive quality from LF. Thank you Mark for the R&D.


----------



## thermal guy

Oh. That’s nice 🙂


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Mark, since you are deep into p60 territory now, what about making nice bare p60 pills that would fit snugly at least your own p60 heads but also 6p hosts, if these two goals are compatible. I am pretty tired of the foil needed for a good thermal contact



Well, I could.
But then it will cause problems when users install 3rd party P60 modules in the heads, it will most likely not fit because they are all slightly different in design and dimensions.
So the heads would only fit our modules, which would really make the P60 platform pointless since the P60 platform is about the freedom of choice.
I would save me a lot of headaches trying to make a head that would fit most P60 modules out there though, which is actually very good for me. 
That's why I develop more E Series stuff because I don't have to compensate with other people's designs so much.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

akula88 said:


> Mark, are 17500/14500 bodies also in the pipeline?



Yes, I think the 17500/14500 is the best size in my opinion.
But we have a lot on our hands right now and will need time, but it is in the works.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

cubebike said:


> I got the Pineapple body and the P to E bezel today. Very impressive quality from LF. Thank you Mark for the R&D.



Thank you for your continued support cubebike, I am happy that you liked them.


----------



## ma tumba

[email protected] said:


> Well, I could.
> But then it will cause problems when users install 3rd party P60 modules in the heads, it will most likely not fit because they are all slightly different in design and dimensions.
> So the heads would only fit our modules, which would really make the P60 platform pointless since the P60 platform is about the freedom of choice.
> I would save me a lot of headaches trying to make a head that would fit most P60 modules out there though, which is actually very good for me.
> That's why I develop more E Series stuff because I don't have to compensate with other people's designs so much.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Mark, I think there is a misunderstanding. What I had in mind is this: you have made p60 heads which would fit a wide range of third party light engines so you provide enough space for most of them. Now why not make your own pill which would have a perfect fit to your existing head?


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Mark, I think there is a misunderstanding. What I had in mind is this: you have made p60 heads which would fit a wide range of third party light engines so you provide enough space for most of them. Now why not make your own pill which would have a perfect fit to your existing head?



We do make P60 modules, we are probably one of the first makers of P60 LED dropins way back. Our incandescent P60 offerings were even earlier starting from 2006.
In fact, we just released a new range of 3 mode 3.6V-13V modules a few days ago.
Our modules fit our heads best, but since I have to compensate the heads for modules from other makers, I have to leave room for them hence sacrificing the heat dissipation capabilities of the heads somewhat.
But I understand your idea.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

By a pill I mean a cheap bare thing: no driver, no led. A diy item for us to make our own bulb.

But I also understand what you say regarding flexibility


----------



## euroken

I know this thread is specific to Lumens Factory E-series...but I had to share 

3P and 6P Pineapple bodies!!!


----------



## ma tumba

Mark, what is the max current for your z52 tail caps?


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Mark, what is the max current for your z52 tail caps?



I will think about the pill idea, are there other companies offering something like this?
Our Z52 tailcaps use a McClicky so max current would be 5-6A.
If you are refering to the Z52 twisty then there should be no limit as far as I understand.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

Wrong thread, sorry


----------



## thermal guy

I’m a little confused. Has lumens factory come out with a drop in rated to 13 volts for E series’s lights?


----------



## Roger Sully

Not specifically for the E series. Mark has a 3.6- 13V P60 drop in that can be used with the E-C head.


----------



## thermal guy

Ahh ok. Was trying to figure out why you would need or how you would get 13 volts in a e series’s


----------



## ampdude

thermal guy said:


> Ahh ok. Was trying to figure out why you would need or how you would get 13 volts in a e series’s



Ha! That would be awesome!!

If only Surefire had put the E3e and the MN04 lamp assembly prototype into production at 7.2V. I would have loved to have seen that xenon-halogen bulb, I would have stockpiled them!


----------



## ma tumba

I wonder if such a thing as C to E adapter is possible, so that an e-series head could be used with a 6p or similar host? This adapter would eliminate the need for longer e-series bodies such as 2x18500/2xAA and longer. The new p60 head, which is clearly an upgrade to z44, could be used with 6p as well


----------



## thermal guy

Can the new P60 to E Head Units work with Malkoff Dropins?


----------



## cubebike

thermal guy said:


> Can the new P60 to E Head Units work with Malkoff Dropins?



yes. Malkoff dropin can be used .


----------



## akula88

Picture Request :

** The new P60 to E Head -vs- Z44 Head with E2C adapter.


----------



## ma tumba

akula88 said:


> Picture Request :
> 
> ** The new P60 to E Head -vs- Z44 Head with E2C adapter.



This ^


----------



## euroken

How’s this?

The e series head is smaller in diameter and length of e2c/z44 combo.


----------



## akula88

^ thanks, Euroken.

Really, really nice. Now I'm drooling.


_The only thing that is stopping me is the postal/shipping right now (currently in slow motion mode).  _


----------



## ma tumba

This hex "ring", does it have the antiroll function or just decorative?


----------



## euroken

The hex ring 'almost' works  If the tail cap has a smaller diameter, than the hex ring will touch the table top and it will 'help' from rolling off the table. If the tail cap is flared out too much, the hex ring will never touch the base and the light will roll.

On the picture above, even with the flared tail cap, the hex ring touched the base and helped from rolling.


----------



## ma tumba

euroken said:


> The hex ring 'almost' works  If the tail cap has a smaller diameter, than the hex ring will touch the table top and it will 'help' from rolling off the table. If the tail cap is flared out too much, the hex ring will never touch the base and the light will roll.
> 
> On the picture above, even with the flared tail cap, the hex ring touched the base and helped from rolling.



In this case I would say that I would like to see a "hexless"  version one day. IMHO, the smooth head would fit 2-way clip design better and just look and feel cleaner.

Having said this, I think that this version is a huge step up from the adapter/z44 thing and I am going to get one as soon as mail gets back to normal


----------



## knucklegary

Has anyone tried mounting malkoff e-series tri-cap to LF 3pp body, wondering how cap thread length mates-up to body?

Any news on 6pp body releases?


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> This hex "ring", does it have the antiroll function or just decorative?



The hex ring works if you have the normal Z52 or Z57/Z61 tailcaps.
It doesn't work that well when paired with Z68 or other flared tailcaps like the one Euroken is using.


----------



## [email protected]

knucklegary said:


> Any news on 6pp body releases?



Soon, very soon.


----------



## ma tumba

Thanks Mark, this makes sense


----------



## [email protected]

We just released this new P60 to X head unit today.
Well, not exactly an E Series part but I guess some of you would be interested.








Follows the original Surefire design for that stock look.
Comes with your choice of Stainless Steel Bezel Ring and UCL tempered glass lens.
Bezel ring use the Z44 threads, so you can change them if you like.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Dave D

[email protected] said:


> We just released this new P60 to X head unit today.



Well done Mark, great price, just needs a 21700 body to go with them!


----------



## thermal guy

I like them. But sometimes getting the heads off those is tough.


----------



## akula88

thermal guy said:


> I like them. But sometimes getting the heads off those is tough.



One of my issues about the design of the previous/older E2C and U2C was the absence of notch / knurling / etc that makes 'tool-less' disassembly near impossible. Most often, I had to use old rubber or leather to provide added traction. Plus having weak hands sometimes need a fixed vise to un-tightening the bezel and the adapter. I usually end up with some smudge or scratched bezels.

_Hopefully --_ I presume that LM's new P2E heads are much easier to disassemble as there is only a single 'end' rubber gasket.


----------



## cubebike

Untitled by cubebike2004, on Flickr

Sunday candy teaser. Prototype fresh from LF.
Keep you guys update shortly

Disclaimer- I am a normal customer ( satisfied customer) of LF over a period of time, I sent email to Mark and wanna to purchase 6P/3P pineapple bodies recently and then we started a bit of discussion about my opinions on E body. And Mark is very kind and sent me the prototype for some torture test.


----------



## euroken

I’ll take it!! Lol


----------



## ma tumba

So these are clipless bodies?


----------



## pilo7448

Some raw aluminum parts like these would be awesome 

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## cubebike

]







The prototype that I got are raw and without clips. The body looks very similar to SF tear drop E2 body. IMO, the knuckling on LF could be more aggressive, from 3rd pc you can see the knuckling on SF E2 body are more pronounce. The machining on the prototype are standard high quality LF style with nothing to criticize. 
I have some questions to Mark, 
1. Are you planning to make E head with clip? 
I like this round body and of course want E body with clip. 
2. Are you gonna to produce 2 different 18650 E bodies?
3. Any chance to have the knuckling more aggressive ? Perhaps I so used to hold and handle the pineapple bodies recently 😌


----------



## [email protected]

> I have some questions to Mark,
> 1. Are you planning to make E head with clip?
> I like this round body and of course want E body with clip.
> 2. Are you gonna to produce 2 different 18650 E bodies?
> 3. Any chance to have the knuckling more aggressive ? Perhaps I so used to hold and handle the pineapple bodies recently.



1. Not really, but I understand there might be some demand since most of the aftermarket E bodies do not have clips, so a head unit with a clip like the old school E2 teardrop heads would be a welcome addition to them.
I'll give it some thought, the problem lies with making the clip in small quantities is next to impossible and these "clipped" heads are very niche. So I will end up with 1000 clips and 200 heads.... 200 if I am lucky. LOL
2. Really depends if the threads hold up or not, to be honest. Could be "Zero" if they can't stand hard use.
3. Most definitely, production versions will have more aggressive knucklings like the original Surefire E bodies. These are just prototypes. (I know the knucklings are too "tame" the moment I finished them too. ) 

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

I know from experience that an e1e body bored for 18350 can survive a year of everyday pocket carry without any problem. I expected that either the threading would be compromised by frequent cell replacement or the clip would deform its attachment point, but nothing of that has happened.

So I dont see why a clone, originally made, for xx350 should fail


----------



## cubebike

Head compatibility, I tested the bodies with all the heads I've, like E1b MV, E2 Tatician, E2 defender 500 lumen, Haiku, sf tear drop with incand, SF hex head with kuku dropping and some led dropin, SF KL4 etc. The only issue was with VME head mated with M61 dropin. I tried it on flat top cell and also 2 different button cells still with no luck. I am not sure what happened. 




Mark, once again thank you for your E bodies. And my latest setup is LF head, body and tail 18650 ultimate EDC for my like. I am looking forward for your final production. 


[


[


----------



## NotRegulated

Those E1 and E2 bodies look fantastic. The original E2 body clip less is on of my fav’s. I’m really looking forward to these.


----------



## ma tumba

I am just wondering if it was intentional to make the outer diameter of the front end smaller than any head diameter that I see on the photos? 

Perhaps a smooth, seamless connection to heads may feel more comfortable


----------



## SoSideways

I've done a few searches on this thread and didn't find the answer to what I was looking for, so I'll risk being ridiculed for asking questions that have been previously answered numerous times due to shitty search-fu, but still ask away.

Are there any differences in the beam patterns between the KL1 style, KL4 style, and the Teardrop style heads?

I have been looking around for options to upgrade my older Surefire M300 Scout light, and my first stop was another brand's stuff. However, I can't really find any pictures or video of their beam pattern, so I continued my search and landed here on this thread.

I understand that if I went with the Nichia 319B in cool white, that it'll probably give me close to 700 lumens output (unless something's changed, the higher kelvin rating LEDs tend to have higher output). What about an estimation on the lux/candela?

Also, I did not see potted drivers in the head mentioned anywhere. Will the LF heads be tough enough to be used on a weapon mounted light, especially ones that will be subjected to muzzle blast and the shock of recoil?

Thanks!


----------



## ampdude

Very good questions, I would like to know the answers as well. Traditionally the Surefire KL1 was a more throw based head with its square beam. The later KL1's and E2L-AA's that used the KL1 head used a reflector so the beam was more uniform. The Surefire KL4 went the opposite way, from a total room flooder with the original Luxeon 5 Emitter, and later Seoul P4 emitter that has less flood and more throw, to many different variations since then that focused more on throw than flood. The Teardrop style heads were always incandescent for Surefire, but they were more floody than the later incandescent hex heads. I have no idea how Lumens Factory has done things with the new versions, but that's how things used to be with the original Surefires.


----------



## Roger Sully

I have a friend on the county SWAT team that upgraded his scout light with a LF KL1 head about a year ago. If it had failed I definitely would have heard about it.


----------



## night.hoodie

I am just astounded at what Mark has done. Look at all that E goodness. Incredible. 

I feel pretty guilty; I promised a significant purchase, and you know how it goes, money saved gets eaten by the unexpected necessary priorities. I am worried about stock depletions now. Also, I feel a little like a horse trapped between a bucket of water and a stream. Originally, I just wanted 5 HAIII Natural Elite heads with smooth bezels. The price is just right, but I still can't afford 5... or really any since or now. And I keep staring at the LumensFactory page for those with brass bezels. It isn't the shiny, it is the fact that brass is hardest and should resist bites far better than Al. 

So I think when it happens, it will be two smooth brass HAIII Natural Elite heads, and two smooth HAIII Natural Al Elite heads, and a z52. The dream will come true. The dream will come true. The dream... will... come... true....


----------



## SoSideways

ampdude said:


> Very good questions, I would like to know the answers as well. Traditionally the Surefire KL1 was a more throw based head with its square beam. The later KL1's and E2L-AA's that used the KL1 head used a reflector so the beam was more uniform. The Surefire KL4 went the opposite way, from a total room flooder with the original Luxeon 5 Emitter, and later Seoul P4 emitter that has less flood and more throw, to many different variations since then that focused more on throw than flood. The Teardrop style heads were always incandescent for Surefire, but they were more floody than the later incandescent hex heads. I have no idea how Lumens Factory has done things with the new versions, but that's how things used to be with the original Surefires.



I mean LF's version of those heads, since Mark uses different LEDs than what Surefire used, and I'm sure he uses different optics or reflectors, I'm just curious whether the LF heads will have different beam patterns between the different heads. 



Roger Sully said:


> I have a friend on the county SWAT team that upgraded his scout light with a LF KL1 head about a year ago. If it had failed I definitely would have heard about it.



Is his weapon light right next to a muzzle brake or a compensator? I ask because mine will likely be, and those things will kill lights that aren't made to endure those kinds of abuse.


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> I am just wondering if it was intentional to make the outer diameter of the front end smaller than any head diameter that I see on the photos?
> Perhaps a smooth, seamless connection to heads may feel more comfortable



The ones I send cubebike to test were the 1st Generation E1 and E2 bodies.
1st Generation Surefire E1 and E2 bodies were designed like that, I just followed the original design. 

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

SoSideways said:


> Are there any differences in the beam patterns between the KL1 style, KL4 style, and the Teardrop style heads?
> Also, I did not see potted drivers in the head mentioned anywhere. Will the LF heads be tough enough to be used on a weapon mounted light, especially ones that will be subjected to muzzle blast and the shock of recoil?



The different style heads has the same beam patterns because we are using the same reflector module inside.
We might release different modules for the heads in the future, but currently they are basically the same.

Many customers has brought our LED heads to upgrade their M300 and M600 lights over the years, I have not heard of a single report to date that they fail due to recoil. 


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## night.hoodie

I'm just bumping this thread, least I can do. Everyone should know about Lumens Factory's E Series offerings. Try E Series, will not be disappointed.


----------



## pancakeayaka

The E1 body with Elite head looks amazing!


----------



## Jimmyboots

Just got in a P60 to E Series head and a seraph head. Very pleased with the quality as always and will be ordering more of these E series heads. 

I ordered these for spare bodies and dropins I had laying around and I think these P60 heads are more versatile than a VME. It’s fits and runs both my nailbender and Malkoff P60 dropins without any issues. 

Now for the Seraph head, I cant get it to run anything on a Surefire 6p. 

Any suggestions? Or are these made specially for seraph bodies? 









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## night.hoodie

Mark from Lumens Factory posts in this thread, so he'll know, and I vaguely remember reading something about it in a recent thread with a simple solution, something about a spring I believe. Point is, someone knows. I just looked, and searched, I can't find the thread or remember the details. It was a recent thread, not a few weeks old, requesting bargain 6P options, iirc.

Mind if I pile on the questions for Mark? He's pretty good with monitoring and answering. 

I have been meaning to get a couple E heads (for a long long time, since the birth of this thread) with stainless bezels to complete two identical builds. I did not look closely at the pictures until recently, and noticed the stainless bezel finishes appear to be muted, not polished shiny. I was hoping to match the stainless bezels to my shiny stainless Malkoff clips. Is it possible to get a shiny polished finish on those stainless bezels? Thanks Mark.


----------



## Jimmyboots

Here are a some more photos. 

The second one shows the big difference between lens sizes on tha E series head vs a VME. 












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## thermal guy

“ Now for the Seraph head, I cant get it to run anything on a Surefire 6p. ”

Well it won’t run a Malkoff without a fitting ring. Mine will rattle around in the head without one. But anything like a SF P60 or P90 works just fine in mine.


----------



## Swedpat

I like the Surefire E-series style and earlier thought about some LED upgrade to them. But I have changed my mind and now want to get a few new incandescent modules instead. I am planning to get two heads and lamp modules: one 3V 40 lumen and one 3,7V 90 lumen. These to be used with E1L body and 3V primary and the other with E2L body and a 16650. Maybe I will get some 9V module for Surefire 9/12P as well.
I find it very nice that the manufacturer personally actively participates in the discussion with the costumers at the forum. That is very rare and very much appreciated!


----------



## night.hoodie

I celebrate your incan E choice. Some LED comes into the same league as incan, but IMO, is not in the same ballpark, not yet, perhaps not ever, and the only compelling LED choices I see for E is what I would term custom work from Tana, Malkoff or Oveready; worthy product, but it is an investment. Incan is still a cheap thrill, cheap meaning inexpensive, and handful of lamps or incan assemblies and decent Li-ion cells might very well outlast the user.


----------



## Swedpat

night.hoodie said:


> I celebrate your incan E choice. Some LED comes into the same league as incan, but IMO, is not in the same ballpark, not yet, perhaps not ever, and the only compelling LED choices I see for E is what I would term custom work from Tana, Malkoff or Oveready; worthy product, but it is an investment. Incan is still a cheap thrill, cheap meaning inexpensive, and handful of lamps or incan assemblies and decent Li-ion cells might very well outlast the user.




Thanks! I just placed the order for *2x* E Series Elite Heads, *5x* HO-E1A 3V, 40 Lumens and *5x* EO-E1R 3.6V, 90 Lumens modules. These will be very interesting to try out with my E1L and E2L bodies! 

By the way: a question came into my mind: fully charged Li-ions are 4,2V. Can they safely be used with the 3,6V bulb or does the cell need to be below 4V? I have as well 17670 and 16650 cells.


----------



## [email protected]

night.hoodie said:


> Mark from Lumens Factory posts in this thread, so he'll know, and I vaguely remember reading something about it in a recent thread with a simple solution, something about a spring I believe. Point is, someone knows. I just looked, and searched, I can't find the thread or remember the details. It was a recent thread, not a few weeks old, requesting bargain 6P options, iirc.
> 
> Mind if I pile on the questions for Mark? He's pretty good with monitoring and answering.
> 
> I have been meaning to get a couple E heads (for a long long time, since the birth of this thread) with stainless bezels to complete two identical builds. I did not look closely at the pictures until recently, and noticed the stainless bezel finishes appear to be muted, not polished shiny. I was hoping to match the stainless bezels to my shiny stainless Malkoff clips. Is it possible to get a shiny polished finish on those stainless bezels? Thanks Mark.



Thanks for the bump and support.

Well, on the shiny polished bezels: I am afraid that we will not have that, but you can use different grid sandpaper and wet sand the bezels to get a polished shiny look.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Swedpat said:


> Thanks! I just placed the order for *2x* E Series Elite Heads, *5x* HO-E1A 3V, 40 Lumens and *5x* EO-E1R 3.6V, 90 Lumens modules. These will be very interesting to try out with my E1L and E2L bodies!
> 
> By the way: a question came into my mind: fully charged Li-ions are 4,2V. Can they safely be used with the 3,6V bulb or does the cell need to be below 4V? I have as well 17670 and 16650 cells.



Thank you for your order, support and nice comments.
I found that interacting directly with customers is the best way to get in touch with demand for new products and also feedbacks that we can use to improve existing products.

Fully charged Li-Ion are 4.2V, we have kept that in mind so the 3.6V lamps are designed to withstand the higher initial voltage of the batteries so no worries.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Jimmyboots said:


> Just got in a P60 to E Series head and a seraph head. Very pleased with the quality as always and will be ordering more of these E series heads.
> 
> I ordered these for spare bodies and dropins I had laying around and I think these P60 heads are more versatile than a VME. It’s fits and runs both my nailbender and Malkoff P60 dropins without any issues.
> 
> Now for the Seraph head, I cant get it to run anything on a Surefire 6p.
> 
> Any suggestions? Or are these made specially for seraph bodies?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Thank you for the nice comments, I am happy to hear that you liked our products.

The Seraph SP D26 heads are fully compatible with the Surefire 6P, but it was meant to run modules with the negative contact spring.
So you will need to put a negative contact spring on your P60 module if you are running one that does not come with one.

I will consider including a negative contact spring with every Seraph SP D26 head unit in the future to avoid future confusions.
If you need a negative contact spring, please email us over at the company email.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Some update regarding to E Series Bodies. 

Thanks to the feedback from our field testers, I have green lighted the Gen 1 Classic E1 and E2 bodies to be 18650 and 18350 able.
They will only accept the flat top single wrap batteries of those sizes of course.
Internal diameter should be about 18.3mm.

Absolutely no protected and fat 18650 cells for obvious reasons, so don't even try.
I'll see how many idiots I get from eBay that ignores the warning and say their 3500mAh super fat protected 18650 don't fit.
If it gets out of hand, I will revert back to 17.3mm internal diameter for a peace of mind.
I honestly don't have the time for that crap no more.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Jimmyboots

[email protected] said:


> Thank you for the nice comments, I am happy to hear that you liked our products.
> 
> The Seraph SP D26 heads are fully compatible with the Surefire 6P, but it was meant to run modules with the negative contact spring.
> So you will need to put a negative contact spring on your P60 module if you are running one that does not come with one.
> 
> I will consider including a negative contact spring with every Seraph SP D26 head unit in the future to avoid future confusions.
> If you need a negative contact spring, please email us over at the company email.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Thanks for getting g back to me on this. I got it to work for now using a combination of springs and a Malkoff bumper oring. If it’s ok I will add a note for a negative contact spring on my next order. 

I am thinking of building a weapon light using a E to p60 series head and arisaka parts. 

Thanks. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Swedpat

[email protected] said:


> Thank you for your order, support and nice comments.
> I found that interacting directly with customers is the best way to get in touch with demand for new products and also feedbacks that we can use to improve existing products.
> 
> Fully charged Li-Ion are 4.2V, we have kept that in mind so the 3.6V lamps are designed to withstand the higher initial voltage of the batteries so no worries.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Thanks for the answer Mark! 
I just have another question: because I have the complete setup of the former Outdoorsman series I also have E2L AA model. So I can run the 3V 40 lumen module with 2xAA as well. Maybe a bit under powered with NiMh cells? But can I use it with fresh 2x lithium primaries? I think these are a bit more than 1,5V initial.


----------



## Pi_is_blue

Mark - has the shipping situation (at least to the USA) returned to normal? I thought I saw a couple months back that you were processing orders manually.


----------



## thermal guy

I need to order from them myself but my last order is 38 days out and still not here. If I order from the site what’s the lead time?


----------



## pilo7448

Im patiently waiting to order until all this nonsense is over. 

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## nbp

Good to know. I have been thinking about an order, but if it’s slow going, maybe I will do it now rather than later, and get the process going. It’s getting cooler out and all this talk of incans lately has me wanting to build a little E1 Pineapple to warm my hands this winter.


----------



## nbp

Just placed my order! Ooof, for $26 shipping I hope it doesn’t end up taking 1.5 months. Oh well, either way, he’s the only guy making stuff like this so I’m sure it’ll be worth it. Got a HA-NAT pineapple E1P body, E1 head with brass cren ring, NAT Z57 tail and the 90 lms E1R lamp. Should make a fun little incan pocket light to supplement all my LED lights this winter.


----------



## [email protected]

Swedpat said:


> Thanks for the answer Mark!
> I just have another question: because I have the complete setup of the former Outdoorsman series I also have E2L AA model. So I can run the 3V 40 lumen module with 2xAA as well. Maybe a bit under powered with NiMh cells? But can I use it with fresh 2x lithium primaries? I think these are a bit more than 1,5V initial.




I think you can run it with the 2 x AA cells.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Pi_is_blue said:


> Mark - has the shipping situation (at least to the USA) returned to normal? I thought I saw a couple months back that you were processing orders manually.



The shipping situation is back to normal somewhat.
At least we can now use Hong Kong Postal Service to ship orders again.

For larger orders we use FedEx which will be delivered within 1 week anywhere in the world guaranteed.
Flat rate is $16.00 USD for 1 pound to the US, $23.00 USD for 1 pound to other parts of the world.
So you guys can contact us about using FedEx to ship your orders.
I would recommend ordering more items to thin out the costs.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

nbp said:


> Just placed my order! Ooof, for $26 shipping I hope it doesn’t end up taking 1.5 months. Oh well, either way, he’s the only guy making stuff like this so I’m sure it’ll be worth it. Got a HA-NAT pineapple E1P body, E1 head with brass cren ring, NAT Z57 tail and the 90 lms E1R lamp. Should make a fun little incan pocket light to supplement all my LED lights this winter.



Hi Nick,

No worries, we used FedEx to ship your order so it will be delivered very soon.
Also refunded $10 back to you since the order is within 1 pound.

Thank you for your order and support.

Mark


----------



## nbp

Awesome, thanks for the great service Mark. All sounds good to me!


----------



## euroken

[email protected] said:


> Some update regarding to E Series Bodies.
> 
> Thanks to the feedback from our field testers, I have green lighted the Gen 1 Classic E1 and E2 bodies to be 18650 and 18350 able.
> They will only accept the flat top single wrap batteries of those sizes of course.
> Internal diameter should be about 18.3mm.
> 
> Absolutely no protected and fat 18650 cells for obvious reasons, so don't even try.
> I'll see how many idiots I get from eBay that ignores the warning and say their 3500mAh super fat protected 18650 don't fit.
> If it gets out of hand, I will revert back to 17.3mm internal diameter for a peace of mind.
> I honestly don't have the time for that crap no more.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



I'll take them!!!  ready at the mouse.


----------



## Pi_is_blue

[email protected] said:


> The shipping situation is back to normal somewhat.
> At least we can now use Hong Kong Postal Service to ship orders again.
> 
> For larger orders we use FedEx which will be delivered within 1 week anywhere in the world guaranteed.
> Flat rate is $16.00 USD for 1 pound to the US, $23.00 USD for 1 pound to other parts of the world.
> So you guys can contact us about using FedEx to ship your orders.
> *I would recommend ordering more items to thin out the costs.*
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Finally placed an order to build a light with those beautiful KL4 heads! But I think I'll have to wait until those 18650 bodies are ready to order more. Or if a 2AA e-series body was to be made, then I'd have to build my own E2L-AA outdoorsman...


----------



## ampdude

Mark, do you also still offer the normal 17.3mm internal diameter on those Gen 1 E1 and E2 classic bodies?


----------



## [email protected]

ampdude said:


> Mark, do you also still offer the normal 17.3mm internal diameter on those Gen 1 E1 and E2 classic bodies?



No, Ampdude.
The bodies will be offered in 18xxx able only.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

[email protected] said:


> No, Ampdude.
> The bodies will be offered in 18xxx able only.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Hi Mark, any ETA of the new bodies? Any pics of them?


----------



## nbp

[email protected] said:


> Hi Nick,
> 
> No worries, we used FedEx to ship your order so it will be delivered very soon.
> Also refunded $10 back to you since the order is within 1 pound.
> 
> Thank you for your order and support.
> 
> Mark



WoWzA, delivered already! Super fast, everything came in perfect. My first experience with LF is very very good. Thank you Mark! I can't wait to do another build.


----------



## bykfixer

[email protected] said:


> <snip>
> 
> No worries, we used FedEx to ship your order so it will be delivered very soon.
> <sniip>



When using "E-express" does that get handed off to Fed Ex? I ask because I got a text from Fed Ex today and since I was not expecting anything from them I figured it to be a hoax and deleted the text (with links). I've been watching the e-express tracking that says it's still in hong kong. No rush, just curious. 

Thanks


----------



## Swedpat

Yesterday I received my very first order from Lumens Factory. From Hong Kong to northernmost Sweden in only 8 days.
The items were well packaged. It's interesting that after more than a decade of collecting and appreciation of modern LED lights I find it SO fun to use high quality incandescents. After recently being wowed by 18000lm LED monster I enjoy the warm and nice light of incandescent of below 100lm. Due to the LED development we have been used to car light brightness in EDC format. And when I think about it I realise: we have been used to have much more lumens than we actually need. But we have enjoyed it because it's available and fun. Here I find it fascinating that I actually enjoy incandescent light because of what it is. There are good LEDs. But there is something with incandecent light which LED still has not achieved to provide. The warm and natural tone with the maximal CRI. And when this is available in real quality equipment it's awesome.

Lumen Factory heads are top notch and the finish fully in par to Surefire. Together with Surefire bodies the heads and lamp modules provide the full experience of holding a complete original Surefire incandescent in the hand!
I still only have tried the textured reflectors and am very satisfied with it: almost artifact free spill with an even hotspot without the typical ringy projection of the filament I am used to from the time before LED arrived. The lens is coated and when I knock on it with the nail it sounds solid.
Yesterday felt like an early christmas. 
My very first order included as an extra bonus a bunch of stickers and velcro emblems. Much appreciated! 

Thank you Mark and Lumens Factory for good service and great products!






















By the way: I hope I have not hijacked the thread too much when it's named "Lumens Factory E-series *bodies*"? 
What do you say *night.hoodie*; do you want to rename it to "Lumens Factory E-series *parts"*? I wonder because it's maybe not enough discussion about every part to justify new threads?


----------



## thermal guy

Maybe I missed it but are there any plans to make an old school round body E series? The ones before they started to put flats on them? Love one of them.


----------



## treek13

[email protected] said:


> Some update regarding to E Series Bodies.
> 
> Thanks to the feedback from our field testers, I have green lighted the Gen 1 Classic E1 and E2 bodies to be 18650 and 18350 able.
> They will only accept the flat top single wrap batteries of those sizes of course.
> Internal diameter should be about 18.3mm.
> 
> Absolutely no protected and fat 18650 cells for obvious reasons, so don't even try.
> I'll see how many idiots I get from eBay that ignores the warning and say their 3500mAh super fat protected 18650 don't fit.
> If it gets out of hand, I will revert back to 17.3mm internal diameter for a peace of mind.
> I honestly don't have the time for that crap no more.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark


Yes & they are to be 18350 & 18650 compatible.


----------



## [email protected]

nbp said:


> WoWzA, delivered already! Super fast, everything came in perfect. My first experience with LF is very very good. Thank you Mark! I can't wait to do another build.



I am happy to hear that you liked our products.
Thank you for your order and support.


----------



## [email protected]

bykfixer said:


> When using "E-express" does that get handed off to Fed Ex? I ask because I got a text from Fed Ex today and since I was not expecting anything from them I figured it to be a hoax and deleted the text (with links). I've been watching the e-express tracking that says it's still in hong kong. No rush, just curious.
> Thanks



E-Express is a service through Hong Kong Post, it is the standard shipping service that we use.

Sorry, but I am not going to answer any further questions that is shipping related on CPF.
Please contact us directly through the company email if you have any shipping related questions.

Thank you.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Swedpat said:


> .............By the way: I hope I have not hijacked the thread too much when it's named "Lumens Factory E-series *bodies*"?
> What do you say *night.hoodie*; do you want to rename it to "Lumens Factory E-series *parts"*? I wonder because it's maybe not enough discussion about every part to justify new threads?



I am happy to hear that you appreciate the old school incans like many of us and are satisfied with our products. 
Larger orders are shipped by FedEx so they are delivered a lot quicker.
Thank you for your order and support.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> Hi Mark, any ETA of the new bodies? Any pics of them?



We are making them now, so hopefully they will be released within the year if nothing crazy happened.
Well, they are basically what I gave to Cubebike for testing.
The knurling will be more like the original tho since what I gave him was a prototype.
You can look at the photos he took and posted a few pages back.
They will be made in HA3 Natural and HA3 Black as usual.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

I am really looking forward to having the 2x18350 body because I really love the 300lm bulb and 2x16350 just dont have the capacity to make that bulb practical


----------



## ma tumba

Could someone please post *side by side* beam shot of the stock z44 and the new LF C to e head? Need to understand how much broader is the one from LF.

Also interested in comparing the ones from seraph head and the C to e head


----------



## Swedpat

This afternoon I brought with me Surefire E1L with Lumens Factory 3V 40lm module down to the cellar.
The mobile phone camera adjusted the brightness so at the pictures it looks much brighter(at least the hotspot does) than what the eyes perceive. And when I later tried to dim the pictures a bit the dimmer parts of the image becomes too dark, which is typical because the camera exaggerates the contrast compared to the live experience with your own eyes. So I let it be unedited. This still shows what is visible with this light in a dark place without surrounding light sources. It also demonstrates the even hotspot and spill with this module.

This picture is taken in the corridor leading to the laundry. The distance to the door at the end is around 20m.






And here at a few meters distance an open and empty basement storage.


----------



## akula88

ma tumba said:


> Could someone please post *side by side* beam shot of the stock z44 and the new LF C to e head? Need to understand how much broader is the one from LF.



Just got the LF P60-to-E adapter, so here you go, ma tumba. Distance is about 9 inches from the bezel to the cutting board.







Here is a side by side physical comparison as installed on E2e's.


----------



## ma tumba

akula88 said:


> Just got the LF P60-to-E adapter, so here you go, ma tumba. Distance is about 9 inches from the bezel to the cutting board.
> <temporarily removed>
> 
> 
> Here is a side by side physical comparison as installed on E2e's.



Thank you so much!!

The beam is indeed considerably wider, by a large margin. definitely going to get this adapter.


----------



## 1996alnl2

pilo7448 said:


> Is there an Ha natural E1 body in the future Mark?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk



I would buy a few, in a heart beat. No other flashlight feels better in my hand than the E-series bodies and HA Natural just looks so cool. Military like


----------



## [email protected]

Some new items today:

Deep Pocket Carry Clip for the E2T-MV Tactican.

Deep Pocket Carry Tailcap.

Slot Studs for Surefire lights.















Hope you guys like them.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ma tumba

@[email protected] what is the plan for 1xAA bodies? The 0.9-4.5v 15mm driver is out


----------



## [email protected]

ma tumba said:


> @[email protected] what is the plan for 1xAA bodies?



It's in the works, need to finish the 2xAA bodies first.


----------



## thermal guy

Fantastic!! Any chance at all of a old round body E style??


----------



## bykfixer

1aa E? Heck yeah!!


----------



## 1313

bykfixer said:


> 1aa E? Heck yeah!!




+1


----------



## chillinn

[email protected] said:


> Some new items today:
> 
> Deep Pocket Carry Clip for the E2T-MV Tactican.
> 
> Deep Pocket Carry Tailcap.
> 
> Slot Studs for Surefire lights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you guys like them.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Excuse me, but this is all just too awesome. You can't do this. How can you do this? You can do this? i am sorry, it is all just way too awesome.


----------



## Swedpat

bykfixer said:


> 1aa E? Heck yeah!!



:thumbsup:


----------



## [email protected]

thermal guy said:


> Fantastic!! Any chance at all of a old round body E style??



Yes, actually we are making the old school classic round body styles now and it should be the next E body we release.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## thermal guy

OMG! Thank you.


----------



## bigburly912

[email protected] said:


> Yes, actually we are making the old school classic round body styles now and it should be the next E body we release.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Oh my mercy. You just made a lot of us happy


----------



## thermal guy

I have wanted one of these forever! Have to sell half my collection for what people are selling there beaters for. Can’t wait


----------



## thermal guy

bigburly912 said:


> Oh my mercy. You just made a lot of us happy



You stalking me again big?😂😂😂


----------



## 1996alnl2

Old school classic E-bodies? I'm in!!


----------



## pancakeayaka

1AA E body sounds great! Is there any existing E head/ dropin accept 1.5-4.2V (AA alkaline/nimh&14500)?


----------



## chillinn

*Re: Lumens Factory E-series bodie*



pancakeayaka said:


> 1AA E body sounds great! Is there any existing E head/ dropin accept 1.5-4.2V (AA alkaline/nimh&14500)?



Well, there are E heads... they usually don't take dropins (but for Malkoff's VME Valiant Concepts head, only a few available dropins, all for Li-ion 3.7V or 2xAA--> 3V), have a builtin LED, such as several Lumens Factory examples on Mark's site, and examples from Surefire (generally not sold separately from a full built light, only Li-ion 3.7V, 2xCR123A 6V and 2xAA & 1xCR123A 3V), and there is the Elite head, which is an incan head that takes lamps built for it (Surefire or Lumens Factory lamps, none are 1.5V) or Tad Custom's bipin socket for Tad Customs lamps and any bipin that may fit), but there are also LED towers that fit the Elite head, just not mass produced afaik, such as examples from Tana. The 5mm LED bipin can be sanded to fit Tad Customs E socket for 1xCR123A 3V only, and there are at least a couple 3V HighCRI 5mm LED that have been found (Yuji and another unnamed manufacturer sold on other forums), run without a driver, just shoved in the socket. There is also the Oveready Moddoolar Triple V5 Wasp (30W, runs on 1 or 2 Li-ion 3.7V/4.2V)

There is nothing in incan that runs on a single AA 1.5V (other than MagLite Solitaire bipin lamps and other special lamps that can be found on eBay sometimes, like surplus avionics lamps from the F-14 Tomcat (3.7V) and hobby lamps for miniature train model stuff... these don't really fit Tad Customs E socket, too small, but can be put in there) but Malkoff may have an LED head that does work with 1.5V). Maybe Mark will create some new 1.5V LED E heads to go with the new body?


----------



## euroken

*Re: Lumens Factory E-series bodie*

Malkoff M31s will work on 1xaa but won't produce full output. 

If you're lucky you can get a hold of M30.

You'll definitely have better luck with 14500.

Oh, and Tana used to make a .8-4.2v driver for E-head. I don't believe he provides that anymore.


----------



## chillinn

*Re: Lumens Factory E-series bodie*

This is really why Surefire only had a prototype 1xAA... because they made nothing that will work with 1xAA, and at that time, there was no 14500. Mark is really doing the community a solid producing the body, because many here have expressed interest... but as of yet... it still doesn't really run anything in 1.5V but one Malkoff LED head made for Malkoff's 1xAA E body, and what euroken mentioned, lower output on an M31 (just a fluke that it works, probably not intentional). 1.5V lamps would be too expensive to design and produce, and there just isn't enough interest in low level incan. But I have a sinking suspicion Mark wouldn't produce and sell a body that doesn't work with anything. But as it is, it would be 14500 or just the one Malkoff MDC 1AA head, which is sold out and never sold without the MDC 1xAA bodies (two styles)... or nothing. I expect those that know intend to run 14500. Maybe me and bykfixer will run Solitaire lamps on 1AA, LOL.

I forgot, there are 1.2V NiMH 1/2AA cells... they can be found, and are overpriced, but they just have no capacity, and there are no LSD versions. So you could fit 2 of those in a 1xAA body for 2.4V, which should fire the Surefire MN01 lamp (good luck finding one) and will fire Lumens Factory HO-E1A lamp... and aught to fire any LED head that works with 3V. But it is an exercise in futility for the poor runtime and lack of low self-discharge cells. There are also 14250 Li-ion cells, again, suffer from lack of capacity, futile exercise.

So, to rehash, unless Mark creates and sells a 1.5V E head, all there really is extant for a 1xAA E body in 1.5V is the Malkoff MDC 1xAA head and Solitaire lamps with trimmed pins delicately fit into a Tad Customs E socket. Once you resign to 14500, there are way more options.


----------



## pancakeayaka

*Re: Lumens Factory E-series bodie*

Thanks for the info chillinn and euroken! 
I do like the elite head with LED tower, hope LF will make a 1.5-4.2V upgrade.
It would be a great lego with different bodies, E1, AA, 2AA, E2 with 16650...


----------



## Swedpat

*Re: Lumens Factory E-series bodie*

This is interesting. With a 1AA tube in coming, may one hope for an incandescent module for 1,5V?


----------



## chillinn

*Re: Lumens Factory E-series bodie*



Swedpat said:


> This is interesting. With a 1AA tube in coming, may one hope for an incandescent module for 1,5V?



No hope. And we would want it optimized for 1.2V or 1.1V, not 1.5V. With Eneloop, you could have a 2A 1.2V or 1.1V lamp. 1.5V primaries just don't give enough amps to be compelling. It would still be pretty dim even at 2A. But just imagine the R&D involved, not cheap. And you can't produce 100, you need thousands. The interest could never cover Mark's investment in such a thing, it would put LF into receivership. Maybe here at CPF we have some that could develop such a lamp and have it produced at $50 a pop or something. But unless we develop a list of 10,000 reserved sales... let go of the idea of Mark providing such a thing. If such a lamp already exists... if there is some manufacturer that already developed and is still producing them, we're in business, But Mark has really done enough IMO, and we should spend like the wind at LF to continue to support his products.

So in incan in Elite, with 14500 3.7V/4.2V, there is HO-E1R, EO-E1R, Tad Customs E socket with A3712 (and some Streamlight lamps I am not familiar with), MN02, MN03 (both 6V, but both will fire on 3.7V for less top lumens). 

And, again, it is possible to fix and focus a MagLite Solitaire lamp in Tad Customs E socket in the Elite head, good for a few lumens on 1.5V (no L91!, but Eneloop works at lower lumens), but these lamps don't last very long.


----------



## ma tumba

1.5V incand? why not. 

a solitaire bulb in a tad’s adapter. or any other 3/5mm bulb you can find on the bay, there are plenty

not sure what current the solitaire bulb is rated for, but I can see some cheap 1.5V bulbs rated for 100ma. So the output would be around 3-5lm


----------



## chillinn

Personally, I find the Xenon Solitaire lamps painful, especially with well dark adapted eyes, just too blue. But the Soli Krypton lamps are very nice and warm, just not as bright. These lamps will last longer on Eneloop with less but more consistent output than Alkaline, but still... they were not made to last. Runtime on AA could be amazing, considering it is so good with AAA (4 hours on AAA until useless? Might get 10 hours on AA). And all we have is whatever stock is left, which is probably still considerable.


----------



## ma tumba

chillinn said:


> Personally, I find the Xenon Solitaire lamps painful, especially with well dark adapted eyes, just too blue. But the Soli Krypton lamps are very nice and warm, just not as bright. These lamps will last longer on Eneloop with less output than Alkaline, but still... they were not made to last. And all we have is whatever stock is left, which is probably still considerable.



Do a search for 1.5V bulbs on the bay and you’ll find a lot of alternatives. Would be fun to try some


----------



## chillinn

ma tumba said:


> Do a search for 1.5V bulbs on the bay and you’ll find a lot of alternatives. Would be fun to try some



Unlikely any nameless 1.5V lamps on eBay will be as good as MagLite replacement lamps. Maybe there is a lamp source in Russia that could be uncovered?

If we could determine the precise kind and size of Tad Customs lamps that would certainly help... they're larger than G2... is there such a thing as G3? If so, I believe they're smaller than G3. Maybe G2.4 or something. Weird size, but I suppose about the same size as potted Surefire E and Lumens Factory lamps. Maybe fivemega could work some wizardry, but I have no idea how he comes up with his custom lamps. Should an interest thread be created so that it might scare up... interest? How many want to run 1.2V or 1.5V ? (I can't believe anyone is considering running Alkaline in a AA E body... asking for trouble when Eneloop kicks Alkaline's mother lovin' butt).


----------



## ma tumba

I have no idea what may be available here, perhaps just similar stuff.

On the other hand, i dont think that quality is important in bulbs of this power. This is just a hotwire, and it costs 10 cents per bulb


----------



## chillinn

ma tumba said:


> I have no idea what may be available here, perhaps just similar stuff.
> 
> On the other hand, i dont think that quality is important in bulbs of this power. This is just a hotwire, and it costs 10 cents per bulb



I think your price quote is a bit unrealistic. MagLite replacement 1 cell lamps have come down in price, but they are still $5-$6 for a 2 pack plus ship. There are other companies making replacement lamps for a lot less, but you will always get what you pay for. Replacing one of these blown lamps in the dark is not easy... you have to trim the bipins. Once experimenting is done, the proper trim is revealed, so I suppose you could prepare a bunch to have on hand, tape the spares to the body or something.


----------



## ma tumba

this is what I am looking at right now. $10 for 100pc


----------



## chillinn

ma tumba said:


> this is what I am looking at right now. $10 for 100pc



I have some experience with Soli lamps. The cheaper they are, the cheaper they are.


----------



## ma tumba

You mean third party replacements or discounted branded ones?


----------



## Swedpat

If the 3V bulb is rated for 40lm couldn't a 1,2V bulb be rated for 10-15lm?


----------



## ma tumba

3V maglite 2xAAA is rated for 9lm, 2xAA for 14lm


----------



## euroken

Lol, I wasn't really interested in 1.2v 2A...More like .1 or .2 amps...

Look up grain of wheat bulbs for model trains...


----------



## chillinn

ma tumba said:


> You mean third party replacements or discounted branded ones?



Yeah. You might get lucky with a batch of cheap ones. I wouldn't claim to know all single cell Soli lamps out there, but I have been down this road. MagLite lamps in this size are the most reliable, but even they're not that reliable. Sometimes you get a MagLite Soli lamp that lasts through a dozen cell swaps, then you stick in a fresh cell and it flashes. For some reason, the same size lamp in 2 cell lasts a lot longer.


----------



## chillinn

euroken said:


> Lol, I wasn't really interested in 1.2v 2A...More like .1 or .2 amps...
> 
> Look up grain of wheat bulbs for model trains...



Well, the idea is, with an AA Eneloop, you have 1900mAh and more capacity, and it takes the amps, so use the amps... the capacity stays about the same regardless of the amp draw on an Eneloop, and you get more solid lumens. But if all you are interested in is 2 lumens max on a fresh Alkaline and rapidly dropping, then the Solitaire lamp is your prize.


----------



## euroken

Yeah, I understand where you are going. 

I will agree, IF we can get such driver for the E series, I'll be all over it.

Just was trying to find a cheap alternative if 'cheap' is available lol

I do have Tana's .8 to 4.2v Nichia triple E head and it is absolutely awesome but I can't bring myself to rotate it into EDC


----------



## Swedpat

ma tumba said:


> 3V maglite 2xAAA is rated for 9lm, 2xAA for 14lm



But that is with alkalines, right? It is possible to manufacturer an incandescent bulb with higher current draw at 1,2-1,5V and get the same brightness or higher with a single NiMh or lithium cell, or?


----------



## chillinn

Swedpat said:


> But that is with alkalines, right? It is possible to manufacturer an incandescent bulb with higher current draw at 1,2-1,5V and get the same brightness or higher with a single NiMh or lithium cell, or?



That really is the question. I thought I understood lamps... more current, more light, but today I am learning that isn't necessarily true. There are a lot of lamps that take a lot of volts and draw a lot of amps that are not as bright as other lamps at less voltage and less amps. 

The ideal would be finding something appropriate that already exists and is still manufactured to support some old equipment still in use... obviously not for flashlights, but for something. Bipin lamps used to be everywhere, behind all sorts of things, like UV meters and avionics and readouts. So it would be for something that was never replaced with digital, something that was expensive, but deprecated and no longer made, but still in use somewhere because it was an expensive piece of equipment that still works. Probably not helpful, sorry.


----------



## [email protected]

Hi Guys,

Yes, the dilemma with the 1 x AA (14500) body has always been there is not a readily available 0.8V-4.5V driver that can work with this body to bring out the body's full potential.
In my opinion 1 x AA (14500) has always been the sweet spot size for EDC carry and the 14500 size is great because AAs is probably the most common battery size that is everywhere.

We have tried to make a 0.8V-4.5V driver twice in the past, but both times the results failed somewhat as the output is just too low on lower voltages.
I will have another serious look into this driver again next week.

But even if we do not have this "0.8-4.5V" driver, the 1 x AA(14500) body could still be used with a single 14500 (3.7V) which is a great setup with many options for heads and drop-ins, both in incandescent and LED platforms.

Cheers,

Mark


----------



## marcdilnutt

Hi. I am just planning an order and wanted to check if there is any difference in beam profile between the KL1, KL3 and KL4 heads, all other things being equal?

Sent from my [null] using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

marcdilnutt said:


> Hi. I am just planning an order and wanted to check if there is any difference in beam profile between the KL1, KL3 and KL4 heads, all other things being equal?
> 
> Sent from my [null] using Tapatalk




They have the same beam profile.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## marcdilnutt

Thanks for confirming. I actually placed my order last night regardless, I went with the KL4 as I love the shape of the head. I was torn between the pineapple body and the E2E type but ended up going with the E2E, boring but a classic. Maybe I will get the pineapple next as an alternative.

Sent from my [null] using Tapatalk


----------



## 1313

^ Thanks for the insight about driver difficulties. I’d still love the body for use with 14500s. Hopefully one day we can have the best of both worlds as far as wide voltage range drivers


----------



## carrot

[email protected] said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Yes, the dilemma with the 1 x AA (14500) body has always been there is not a readily available 0.8V-4.5V driver that can work with this body to bring out the body's full potential.
> In my opinion 1 x AA (14500) has always been the sweet spot size for EDC carry and the 14500 size is great because AAs is probably the most common battery size that is everywhere.
> 
> We have tried to make a 0.8V-4.5V driver twice in the past, but both times the results failed somewhat as the output is just too low on lower voltages.
> I will have another serious look into this driver again next week.
> 
> But even if we do not have this "0.8-4.5V" driver, the 1 x AA(14500) body could still be used with a single 14500 (3.7V) which is a great setup with many options for heads and drop-ins, both in incandescent and LED platforms.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



How low is low? I’d be satisfied with 100-200 lumens. If Lumintop can do it... maybe they’re willing to sell some drivers... with some firmware modification of course.


----------



## [email protected]

carrot said:


> How low is low? I’d be satisfied with 100-200 lumens. If Lumintop can do it... maybe they’re willing to sell some drivers... with some firmware modification of course.



Well, depends on the model that you buy.
The low is 5% on our modules and heads, so it is around 50 Lumens on the 3.7V-13V models and 35 Lumens on the 2.7-4.5V models.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## carrot

[email protected] said:


> Well, depends on the model that you buy.
> The low is 5% on our modules and heads, so it is around 50 Lumens on the 3.7V-13V models and 35 Lumens on the 2.7-4.5V models.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Sorry for the confusion Mark. I was referring to the part where you said the 0.8V driver wasn't bright enough. 

I have a Malkoff MDC AA and McGizmo Haiku AA and they are both capable of at least 100 lumens on high, which is a little sad considering how bright li-ion lights are, but entirely serviceable at that output. They are both built on the E-series platform as you are aware. It would be great to at least support dual-chemistry so NiMH and 14500.


----------



## 1313

I live my malkoff aa body but I believe it’s just as thick as the 16mm cell bodies. Would love a nice and slim one


----------



## [email protected]

carrot said:


> Sorry for the confusion Mark. I was referring to the part where you said the 0.8V driver wasn't bright enough.



Oh I see, thanks for clearing it up.

The prototype 0.8V driver we made do have about 100 lumens on high when using a single AA battery, but on low it is like a Maglite solitaire.
So I deemed it a failure and didn't produce it.

For anything realistic, I think I need to spend some time and money to make a dedicated low voltage input driver for the single AA application.
But then it will not be able to use 3.7V 14500 rechargeables, so that is the dilemma here and I think is has been a problem for other AA light makers as well.

My hands are full with current projects, so what I was hoping is to make the body available first so at least it can use a 1 x 14500 setup.

Cheers.


Mark


----------



## sgt253

@[email protected]: will there be any more 1cell E bodies made any time soon other than the pineapple style?


----------



## michaex

I would also be interested, nat HA 1 cell body for primaries seem to be hard to find these days!


----------



## thermal guy

Yes 1 cell please. Kinda hoping that he’s still making them.


----------



## pilo7448

Me too.. Ha please[emoji120]

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## ampdude

michaex said:


> I would also be interested, nat HA 1 cell body for primaries seem to be hard to find these days!



Yes, knurled HA NAT in the original Surefire E1 style.


----------



## [email protected]

Upcoming are the Classic E1 and E2 bodies (the old school, no clip versions) in HA3 Natural and NA3 Black.
Made 20 pcs of each in the old school glossy black as well, I am thinking of selling them with our Z52 and the remaining 1st gen teardrop LED heads that were made in with the same finish that we sold years ago.
The heads will be using the current generation gaskets and lens with current generation HA3 Black bezels. (our optional bezels will work on these heads, so you use our QPQ Black, Stainless, Copper, Brass, Titanium bezels on these if you like.)

These will be 18650 (non-protected, single wrap cells ONLY) and 18350 (non-protected cells ONLY) compatible.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## michaex

Thank you Mark!


----------



## ma tumba

Another part that has been sorely missing is a HA aleph mule head for e-series that accepts standard aleph LEs

Of course, there are Ti ones available from McGizmo, but they are in another price category and look awkward with HA e-series bodies


----------



## akula88

[email protected] said:


> Yes, I purposefully design it with a shorter rim to have less "covering" on the beam's edge which was alway the problem with the Z44 style heads.
> So yes, the beam is boarder.
> Another consideration of the design is to have a head that is as short and as light as possible, which will differentiate it further from the "E to C with a Z44 Head" setup.
> I loosely followed the design of the Surefire A2's head unit so the head will blend in with the design of the E Series.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Got a second P60 to E Head Unit last November, but I'm wondering how does this compared with the A2 sizewise.

Can anyone pls post a P60-to-E head side by side with an A2 head?


----------



## double_r76

akula88 said:


> Got a second P60 to E Head Unit last November, but I'm wondering how does this compared with the A2 sizewise.
> 
> Can anyone pls post a P60-to-E head side by side with an A2 head?



The style is definitely similar, but the P60-to-E is bigger to fit the drop-in.


----------



## akula88

^ Thanks for the photo.


----------



## wacbzz

Hi Mark - I just received the deep carry pocket clip for my Tactician. I placed it on my LF clicky tailcap and it looks good, but even with the two delrin gaskets, the clip still spins loosely. Have I attached the clip/gaskets incorrectly, or is the clip designed to move in this way?

If it is, does your tailcap with the clip attached spin around also? 

Thank you Sir!


----------



## [email protected]

wacbzz said:


> Hi Mark - I just received the deep carry pocket clip for my Tactician. I placed it on my LF clicky tailcap and it looks good, but even with the two delrin gaskets, the clip still spins loosely. Have I attached the clip/gaskets incorrectly, or is the clip designed to move in this way?
> 
> If it is, does your tailcap with the clip attached spin around also?



Hi,

No, it should not spin at all.
One delrin gasket on top of the clip and one gasket on the bottom.
Remember to take the tailcap off the light before you install because the switch might be pushing towards the switch boot when you reinstall the retainer ring.
Once you have the retainer ring off, use a pair of tweezers to make sure the flange of the tailcap boot is sitted completely flat.
Then install the retainer ring back in and tighten.

That should do the trick, otherwise contact me through the company email and we can discuss it further in detail.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## wacbzz

[email protected] said:


> One delrin gasket on top of the clip and one gasket on the bottom.
> Remember to take the tailcap off the light before you install because the switch might be pushing towards the switch boot when you reinstall the retainer ring.
> Once you have the retainer ring off, use a pair of tweezers to make sure the flange of the tailcap boot is sitted completely flat.
> Then install the retainer ring back in and tighten.



Exact instructions that worked perfectly! Especially the part about taking the tailcap off the light :duh2:

Thank you Sir!


----------



## Icarus

[email protected] said:


> Upcoming are the Classic E1 and E2 bodies (the old school, no clip versions) in HA3 Natural and NA3 Black.
> Made 20 pcs of each in the old school glossy black as well, I am thinking of selling them with our Z52 and the remaining 1st gen teardrop LED heads that were made in with the same finish that we sold years ago.
> The heads will be using the current generation gaskets and lens with current generation HA3 Black bezels. (our optional bezels will work on these heads, so you use our QPQ Black, Stainless, Copper, Brass, Titanium bezels on these if you like.)
> 
> These will be *18650* (non-protected, single wrap cells ONLY) and *18350* (non-protected cells ONLY) compatible.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Mark, are they really going to be 18650/18350 compatible or is that a typo? With a 18650/18350 threads must be very thin. :thinking: 

I'm still hoping the 3-flats will also be available soon. 

BTW, did you see my triples? 






*Lumens Factory Triple XP-E2 KL1*







*Lumens Factory Triple Amber XP-E2 Teardrop*







*Lumens Factory Triple Red XP-E2 Elite

*


----------



## pilo7448

Icarus [emoji1786][emoji1786][emoji1786][emoji1786][emoji1786]

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

wacbzz said:


> Exact instructions that worked perfectly! Especially the part about taking the tailcap off the light :duh2:
> 
> Thank you Sir!



Glad that it worked out.


----------



## [email protected]

Icarus said:


> Mark, are they really going to be 18650/18350 compatible or is that a typo? With a 18650/18350 threads must be very thin. :thinking:
> 
> I'm still hoping the 3-flats will also be available soon.
> 
> BTW, did you see my triples?



Hi Icarus,

Yes, I saw them and are amazed at the fine work and amazing outcome.

The 18650/18350 are not typos, I am currently wrapping up the Gen 1 bodies as we speak.
Should have them out very soon.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Icarus

[email protected] said:


> Hi Icarus,
> 
> The 18650/18350 are not typos, I am currently wrapping up the Gen 1 bodies as we speak.
> Should have them out very soon.
> 
> Mark



Well, I don't understand how that's possible... :thinking:



[email protected] said:


> Hi Icarus,
> 
> I am currently wrapping up the Gen 1 bodies as we speak.
> Should have them out very soon.
> 
> Mark



That's great news!  I'm eagerly waiting for some pictures.


----------



## [email protected]

Here you go, Icarus.
I send you a PM, please check your mailbox. 


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## marcdilnutt

I can't wait until these go up for sale!

Sent from my [null] using Tapatalk


----------



## Icarus

[email protected] said:


> Here you go, Icarus.
> I send you a PM, please check your mailbox.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Amazing! :duck: :thumbsup: I bored one out long time ago and it came out very thin at the threads. 

Any idea when the Gen2 (3-flat sides) and new Gen3 (rounded) bodies will be available?


----------



## [email protected]

Icarus said:


> Any idea when the Gen2 (3-flat sides) and new Gen3 (rounded) bodies will be available?



They are in the works and should be released in March if everything is smooth.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Icarus

[email protected] said:


> They are in the works and should be released in March if everything is smooth.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



:thanks: I will reply your PM soon.


----------



## Toehead

I may be looking to add a single cell body on an E2T-MV light. Will the E Series 1 Cell Flashlight Body, HA3 Black work or will the new versions to be released in March be better options?


----------



## 1996alnl2

Toehead said:


> I may be looking to add a single cell body on an E2T-MV light. Will the E Series 1 Cell Flashlight Body, HA3 Black work or will the new versions to be released in March be better options?



I tried my Tactician head on a single cell 16340 and all I could get was low mode. I used multiple brands, same thing.


----------



## Scotty321

Is it better to order from the LF HK website or is there a US distributor that I should be purchasing from?

Any reports on the resilience of these units (E Series KL4 Style 3 Mode Head Unit (3.7V-9V), HA3 Natural/HA3 Black)? I use mine for traveling, emergencies, and personal security.


----------



## akula88

1996alnl2 said:


> I tried my Tactician head on a single cell 16340 and all I could get was low mode. I used multiple brands, same thing.



I made a reply to you on this post on the Tactician thread.


----------



## [email protected]

Scotty321 said:


> Is it better to order from the LF HK website or is there a US distributor that I should be purchasing from?



You can purchase from our Official Online Shop or our dealers in the US.
They don't carry the entire lineup, but you can always ask them to special order anything that we have.

Please go to our "Worldwide Dealers" tab for contact information.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Scotty321

[email protected] said:


> You can purchase from our Official Online Shop or our dealers in the US.
> They don't carry the entire lineup, but you can always ask them to special order anything that we have.
> 
> Please go to our "Worldwide Dealers" tab for contact information.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark




Thanks!


----------



## Toehead

Mark, thanks as well. I will check them out.


----------



## Toehead

akula88 said:


> I made a reply to you on this post on the Tactician thread.



You just need a shim, right?


----------



## Roger Sully

I have one on my EDC and also sold a few of the KL4 heads and so far have a no complaints! I am actually yet to come across anything from LF that's not quality.


----------



## Ubermcoupe

[email protected] said:


> Here you go, Icarus.
> I send you a PM, please check your mailbox.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Awesome! Will HA finish be an option?


----------



## akula88

[email protected] said:


> They are in the works and should be released in *March *if everything is smooth.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Hope everything is in place. Tomorrow will be the 1st day of March. I can't wait to see the list of new releases.


----------



## lumensbadger

Hi Mark.

Are you contemplating to introduce an adapter that would make it possible to attach a Surefire Dual Fuel Scout head to an e series body?

That should be a quite simple task, depending on the inner / outer thread diameters of the head / light body.


----------



## CanAm

I'm looking at putting together a light with the two-cell bodies when the release later this month. It'll be a 2nd work light built around a Malkoff drop-in I have available. I'm hoping that some of the more knowledgeable users on this thread might be able to give some advice on two questions I have. 

First, I'm debating between a Malkoff VME head and the LF P60 E head. There are one or two mentions further back on this thread of the VME not working on some of the LF E bodies, but I was hoping someone might be able to confirm that. If they do both work, I'm curious how big the size difference is and would be very appreciative of a side-by-side photo or any feedback from those who have used both. 

The other question is - What's the difference between a LF Z52 clicky and a Z57/61? It seems they would be functionally identical. Am I missing something? I would like a tailcap that is lockout-capable since the light will be spending time in my work bag.


----------



## ten5three

MARK IS THE MAN! Excellent work and excellent customer service. Top tier, best of the best.


----------



## euroken

ten5three said:


> MARK IS THE MAN! Excellent work and excellent customer service. Top tier, best of the best.



Wait, are these already available?


----------



## ten5three

euroken said:


> Wait, are these already available?



I don't believe they are on the site yet. Mark said he was trying to get them up posted on the site for sale. I'd send him and email and see what he can do. That's pretty much how i got these.


----------



## thermal guy

Oh my. Where are these??


----------



## euroken

thermal guy said:


> Oh my. Where are these??



I asked first! 

Oh the frenzy Mark can create!


----------



## carrot

https://share.getcloudapp.com/eDu8KxGE

The moment we’ve all been waiting for...


----------



## thermal guy

Still not available??


----------



## CanAm

thermal guy said:


> Still not available??




Still not on the site. I sent an email this afternoon asking if there's a release date/how people are getting their hands on them. If they come back to me with firm details I'll share that here.


----------



## thermal guy

Thank you sir.


----------



## novice

So, is that body with the 18350 sticking out an E-head, E-tail, or C-head, E-tail? And it it's E-head, is it made out of aluminum or stainless steel? The head end looks larger, but that also looks like an E2D/E2DL bezel on the bottom one in the photo. Gee, willikers! If it's E-bezel and stainless, I so want one, with an extension. 

[Edit: I got confused when blathering on earlier. Making a 2xAA configuration to be able run MN01-type lamps would be easy if it had an E-head. It would also be nice if Mark could make a 3xAA E-head, E-tail. I have Fivemega's excellent 3xAA, but it's a C-head.]


----------



## carrot

novice said:


> So, is that body with the 18350 sticking out an E-head, E-tail, or C-head, E-tail? And it it's E-head, is it made out of aluminum or stainless steel? The head end looks larger, but that also looks like an E2D/E2DL bezel on the bottom one in the photo. Gee, willikers! If it's E-bezel and stainless, I so want one, with an extension.
> 
> [Edit: I got confused when blathering on earlier. Making a 2xAA configuration to be able run MN01-type lamps would be easy if it had an E-head. It would also be nice if Mark could make a 3xAA E-head, E-tail. I have Fivemega's excellent 3xAA, but it's a C-head.]



In my photo it's all E-series, made of aluminum. E head, E tail. They're very thin. I wouldn't drive over them with a truck like I might the original E parts.


----------



## ten5three

novice said:


> So, is that body with the 18350 sticking out an E-head, E-tail, or C-head, E-tail? And it it's E-head, is it made out of aluminum or stainless steel? The head end looks larger, but that also looks like an E2D/E2DL bezel on the bottom one in the photo. Gee, willikers! If it's E-bezel and stainless, I so want one, with an extension.
> 
> [Edit: I got confused when blathering on earlier. Making a 2xAA configuration to be able run MN01-type lamps would be easy if it had an E-head. It would also be nice if Mark could make a 3xAA E-head, E-tail. I have Fivemega's excellent 3xAA, but it's a C-head.]




Mine are all E-series as well. 2007 E2D modified head, LF 18350 body, SF tailcap, stainless LF tailcap shroud.


----------



## novice

carrot and ten5three,
Thank you for the information! Decisions, decisions...


----------



## akula88

[email protected] said:


> Some update regarding to E Series Bodies.
> 
> Thanks to the feedback from our field testers, I have green lighted the Gen 1 Classic E1 and E2 bodies to be 18650 and 18350 able.
> *They will only accept the flat top single wrap batteries of those sizes of course.*
> *Internal diameter should be about 18.3mm*.
> 
> Absolutely no protected and fat 18650 cells for obvious reasons, so don't even try.
> I'll see how many idiots I get from eBay that ignores the warning and say their 3500mAh super fat protected 18650 don't fit.
> If it gets out of hand, I will revert back to 17.3mm internal diameter for a peace of mind.
> I honestly don't have the time for that crap no more.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark






[email protected] said:


> Upcoming are the Classic E1 and E2 bodies (the old school, no clip versions) in HA3 Natural and NA3 Black.
> Made 20 pcs of each in the old school glossy black as well, I am thinking of selling them with our Z52 and the remaining 1st gen teardrop LED heads that were made in with the same finish that we sold years ago.
> The heads will be using the current generation gaskets and lens with current generation HA3 Black bezels. (our optional bezels will work on these heads, so you use our QPQ Black, Stainless, Copper, Brass, Titanium bezels on these if you like.)
> *
> These will be 18650 (non-protected, single wrap cells ONLY) and 18350 (non-protected cells ONLY) compatible*.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Mark, advance kudos on these bodies. Obvious runtime and modding (circuit) choice is one advantage.

---

Considering the limitation of e-series head-side thread, only limited batteries will fit on them. 

With some members now having these new classic e-series bodies, it would be a great if they can list down their batteries with them that works / fits.

I would be interested -- since I only have a few unprotected 18650s and none yet for 18350.


----------



## carrot

My shortest cells, which are VTC6 and 30Q flat tops, fit fine but need the springs stretched just a bit. If I didn’t have springs on both sides I would be inclined to put a very small spacer. 

I have an unprotected GA button top from some shop that did a clear shrink over the stock wrapper, and it doesn’t fit, not even close. I expect normal flat top GA to fit but I didn’t have any easily available. 

I tried a Vapcell 18350 which works fine. I can test KeepPower and Efest and Epoch later.


----------



## carrot

I also discovered the E2T head works flawlessly on low and high. That now transforms the Tactician into my dream light with that good 18650 runtime and power. Kudos to Mark for keeping the lego dream alive!


----------



## [email protected]

Hi Guys,

Thank you for all the support.

I'll try to get these up on the site tomorrow along with a bunch of other stuffs.
Been super busy with my newborn daughter so things has slowed down a bit.

The bodies will be available in HA3 Black for the time being because I was not happy with the shade of the HA3 Naturals.
I am making a new batch, hopefully it will be better.

I did not intentionally made it work with the E2T Tactician head, so no guarantee it will work.
My official statement is that it will *NOT* work with the high/low beam of the E2T head unit.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## thermal guy

Family first my friend 😁. Congrats.


----------



## akula88

[email protected] said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Thank you for all the support.
> <snip>
> 
> The bodies will be available in HA3 Black for the time being because I was not happy with the* shade of the HA3 Naturals*.
> I am making a new batch, hopefully it will be better.
> 
> <snip>
> 
> Mark



Mark, can you at least post some of the finished HA-Nat? 

Maybe some of the members would be comfortable or prefer them with that particular shade. 

Unless -- you are returning them all back to the anodizers.


----------



## thermal guy

HA-Nat Is what I want.


----------



## cubebike

Congratulations Mark for newborn daughter. 


[email protected];5445554]Hi Guys,

Thank you for all the support.

I'll try to get these up on the site tomorrow along with a bunch of other stuffs.
Been super busy with my newborn daughter so things has slowed down a bit.

The bodies will be available in HA3 Black for the time being because I was not happy with the shade of the HA3 Naturals.
I am making a new batch, hopefully it will be better.

I did not intentionally made it work with the E2T Tactician head, so no guarantee it will work.
My official statement is that it will *NOT* work with the high/low beam of the E2T head unit.


Cheers.

Mark[/QUOTE]


----------



## carrot

akula88 said:


> Mark, can you at least post some of the finished HA-Nat?
> 
> Maybe some of the members would be comfortable or prefer them with that particular shade.
> 
> Unless -- you are returning them all back to the anodizers.



Agreed- as long as there are tailcaps that are close I would be satisfied to purchase these, it's not like HA Nat ever matches anyway.


----------



## CanAm

I'm glad to see the black lights coming onto the market. I will say Mark was very quick to get back to my inquiry, but I was a little hesitant to share that conversation here since the timeline for getting them onto the website is tied up with his personal life, and I didn't want to give away those details or put words in his mouth around the release. 

Like a lot of us, I'm eager for the HA Natural finished bodies to come out. Of course, I also understand that Mark is putting the Lumens Factory logo onto them, so above all else they need to meet HIS standards, not ours. That said, I do agree with other posters here that a lot of HA Natural products (even finely made ones) don't match perfectly, and that's part of the charm.


----------



## ten5three

Possibilities aplenty!! Endless Lego'ability!!! 

Lumens Factory 90CRI XP-L head
Dr. Jones H17Fx Driver
Lumens Factory 18350 E-Body
Surefire Z68 (soon to be a LF Deep-pocket carry tailcap)


----------



## pilo7448

I don't see the e~bodies on the website anywhere. And is "Shasta deals" on Ebay the new name for LF.? 

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

pilo7448 said:


> I don't see the e~bodies on the website anywhere. And is "Shasta deals" on Ebay the new name for LF.?
> Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk



No, our eBay shop is "impreza1000".
"Shastadeals" is EDC Plus's eBay store, they are one of our US dealers.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Thanks for all the support, guys.

I will try my best to upload the new products on the site this week.
I want to upload everything that is new and available, not just the bodies.

Sorry for the delay.

Mark


----------



## lumensbadger

@carrot

Hi.

Did you find the time to test some other cells?

I would be interested in the Keeppower 18350.


----------



## Bronc6901

[email protected] said:


> Thanks for all the support, guys.
> 
> I will try my best to upload the new products on the site this week.
> I want to upload everything that is new and available, not just the bodies.
> 
> Sorry for the delay.
> 
> Mark



checking back daily! 😬


----------



## euroken

Check out his site now...some cool stuff!!!

SW01s...SWEET!!! For both C and E series!!!


----------



## NYCT

euroken said:


> Check out his site now...some cool stuff!!!
> 
> SW01s...SWEET!!! For both C and E series!!!



WOW good catch, I nearly missed these! I was on LF looking for some Elite heads for my E1 & E2 and just so happened to read your post, NICE!!!! I have recently been bitten by the Lumen Factory bug and have been really enjoying Mark's incans in P60 format. Every time I order I say to myself "That's it, that's enough" and less than a week later I'm making a new shopping list again lol.


----------



## ten5three

euroken said:


> Check out his site now...some cool stuff!!!
> 
> SW01s...SWEET!!! For both C and E series!!!



Haha! I had to pick up a few too


----------



## thermal guy

Oh my! Them SW01’s are nice.


----------



## newbie66

Anyone tried using the E2 Classic Gen 1, 2 Cell Flashlight Body (18650 Non-Protected Compatible) with Malkoff heads such as the E2XT or E2 Hyper Throw? Looking at alternatives to the Malkoff 18650 body or the Oveready E70 body.


----------



## ten5three

2007 200/5lm E2DL Head
Dr. Jones H17Fx Driver on a Custom Brass Pill
90+ CRI 3000K Factory De-domed XP-L2 w/ TIR Refocused
Lumens Factory 18350 Gen1 E-series Body
Surefire Defender Tailcap


----------



## carrot

newbie66 said:


> Anyone tried using the E2 Classic Gen 1, 2 Cell Flashlight Body (18650 Non-Protected Compatible) with Malkoff heads such as the E2XT or E2 Hyper Throw? Looking at alternatives to the Malkoff 18650 body or the Oveready E70 body.



Works fine on my MDC head but I did have to pull the springs a little on the tailcap and head to get a strong contact.


----------



## ten5three

newbie66 said:


> Anyone tried using the E2 Classic Gen 1, 2 Cell Flashlight Body (18650 Non-Protected Compatible) with Malkoff heads such as the E2XT or E2 Hyper Throw? Looking at alternatives to the Malkoff 18650 body or the Oveready E70 body.



So far the LF bodies have worked on every head with E-series thread/head dimensions that I’ve tried. I have two of the 18350 bodies and one 18650 body. I also use the OR E35/E70 bodies interchangeably with the LF bodies on the same E-series type heads. So, I’m sure they’ll fit the Malkoff E-series compatible stuff.


----------



## newbie66

carrot said:


> Works fine on my MDC head but I did have to pull the springs a little on the tailcap and head to get a strong contact.


Thanks. Still trying to figure whether to get the LF e bldy or OR e70 to pair with Malkoff E2XT.


----------



## newbie66

ten5three said:


> So far the LF bodies have worked on every head with E-series thread/head dimensions that I’ve tried. I have two of the 18350 bodies and one 18650 body. I also use the OR E35/E70 bodies interchangeably with the LF bodies on the same E-series type heads. So, I’m sure they’ll fit the Malkoff E-series compatible stuff.


Thanks. That is good to know. Both OR e70 and LF e body are quite tempting....


----------



## ten5three

newbie66 said:


> Thanks. That is good to know. Both OR e70 and LF e body are quite tempting....



The OR bodies are awesome if you don’t mind using C-series tailcaps. I have a few OR bodies set up, but prefer the E-series tailcaps with E-series heads. So, the LF bodies let me do that.


----------



## newbie66

ten5three said:


> The OR bodies are awesome if you don’t mind using C-series tailcaps. I have a few OR bodies set up, but prefer the E-series tailcaps with E-series heads. So, the LF bodies let me do that.


E-series tailcaps are smaller so that is nice too.

I have 2 6Ps (one twisty Z41, the other with a black z59 clicky plus a recently bought Malkoff MD tailcap). So, I guess I am leaning towards the OR E70 since I am a C-series guy. I have zero E-series bodies and tailcaps. The tailcaps would then be interchangeable. Although I admit I am tempted to try the e-series.

A reason that made me look at LF E body is because of its non-anodized threads and better compatibility with unprotected 18650s (i only have unprotected Sanyo 18650s).
OR seems like it would need a 19mm copper spring washer + some sort of spacer to work with the Malkoff E2XT head + unprotected 18650s.


----------



## ten5three

newbie66 said:


> E-series tailcaps are smaller so that is nice too.
> 
> I have 2 6Ps (one twisty Z41, the other with a black z59 clicky plus a recently bought Malkoff MD tailcap). So, I guess I am leaning towards the OR E70 since I am a C-series guy. I have zero E-series bodies and tailcaps. The tailcaps would then be interchangeable. Although I admit I am tempted to try the e-series.
> 
> A reason that made me look at LF E body is because of its non-anodized threads and better compatibility with unprotected 18650s (i only have unprotected Sanyo 18650s).
> OR seems like it would need a 19mm copper spring washer + some sort of spacer to work with the Malkoff E2XT head + unprotected 18650s.




The driver side spring definitely has to travel much further inside the body to touch the battery in the Oveready bodies. Internally, the are the opposite as the LF bodies. The OR bodies are rear loading so there is at least .25” of space in front of the battery on the driver side. The LF bodies are front loading so the gap is on the tailcap side. 

I believe that it says somewhere on OR’s site that the E-bodies are only compatible with the new “spring” style SF heads. I’ve made them work with the button type SF E-series heads, but they definitely work better with a spring style driver. I think the LF bodies would work better with unprotected cells since the springs have less to travel inside the body. You’d definitely need a spacer in the OR bodies if you have to stretch the springs a little for the LF bodies.


----------



## ma tumba

Now when the first batch of calypsoii 1-4v driver has been released I desperately need an AA body.


----------



## newbie66

Thank you for the detailed information, really helps me come closer to a decision. Makes want to get both but just not at the same time due to financial constraints...

Anyway, I checked Oveready and they don't have the tailcaps, McClicky swithces and 19mm Beryllium Copper Spring Washer in stock. LF has everything in stock. Decisions, decisions....


----------



## newbie66

This is interesting...


----------



## newbie66

Question.

If I run a 2.7V-4.5V 3 modes head on 2xAA eneloops, what are the outputs that I can get?


----------



## ten5three

ma tumba said:


> Now when the first batch of calypsoii 1-4v driver has been released I desperately need an AA body.



Could you give a link to the specs for that driver? Thanks


----------



## ten5three

How cool is this?!?!?











...and, I’ve got to say it one more time, Mark is the man. I received a nice little surprise with my order for the SW01’s. Very cool Mark! Thank you! Now I’m going to have to order a couple E-series NAHA heads!!


----------



## Roger Sully

Those are cool as heck!!


----------



## ten5three

Thanks again Mark!


----------



## ten5three

I know it’s the “E-series bodies” thread. But had to throw up a pic or three of the E-SW01 on a modified Backup MV, just looked too good not to share!!

- Lumens Factory E-series SW01 tailcap
- Surefire Backup MV w/ Dr. Jones H17Fx driver and 90+ CRI 5000K 319A/T


----------



## thermal guy

My SW01’s got here today but I was not home to sign for them. Looks like I can’t play until tomorrow now😞


----------



## carrot

ten5three said:


> I know it’s the “E-series bodies” thread. But had to throw up a pic or three of the E-SW01 on a modified Backup MV, just looked too good not to share!!
> 
> - Lumens Factory E-series SW01 tailcap
> - Surefire Backup MV w/ Dr. Jones H17Fx driver and 90+ CRI 5000K 319A/T



Umm... I need one of those


----------



## ten5three

carrot said:


> Umm... I need one of those



Makes a great little light. Quite a bit better than the original.


----------



## ten5three

Cool complete Lumens Factory build!!


----------



## Roger Sully

My new obsession.




[/IMG]


----------



## Roger Sully

ten5three said:


> Cool complete Lumens Factory build!!



Tan from LF directly?!?


----------



## thermal guy

I won’t clutter up this thread with stuff other then bodies but them new SW01’s are absolutely fantastic! Love mine


----------



## ten5three

Roger Sully said:


> My new obsession.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/IMG]



Nice! Great minds think alike. Haha! No, the tan wasn’t direct from LF. That’s Urban Flat Dark Earth Cerakote from a local place.


----------



## ten5three

Roger Sully said:


> Tan from LF directly?!?




This body was directly from LF though. It is almost the same color tan. I believe it’s one from the batch of natural HA that Mark is scrapping. The color is great, but Mark’s absolutely right, if you’re trying to match it to his or Surefire natural HA it wouldn’t work.


----------



## CanAm

Received mine in the mail today. Mark is awesome, we were discussing the HA Natural bodies and he was kind enough to send a one and two cell body from the scrapped batch along with another order. I've been playing around with the 2-cell and I like it a lot. The finish is nice, but definitely not a close match for the tailcaps or heads. It's pretty noticeable, and I get why Mark is hesitant to put them on the market as-is. They're a bit cooler and glossier than the other Nat finished parts, not a bad finish on their own at all though. It certainly doesn't bother me though, I'm enjoying having a little piece of LF/CPF lore in my hand .

Currently the HA Nat is wearing an E to P head, but it feels a little front heavy so I'll be changing it to a VME down the road. The 1-cell is going to be set up with an LF low-voltage 3-mode head whenever they come back into stock. It'll be a great little backup light.

The bodies themselves feel good, they are light due to the thin walls, but the knurling and threading is very nice - it all goes together smoothly and feels good in the hand. 
The E2 is going to become one of my work lights. I don't have any doubts that it will hold up, though my usage is not the most demanding.

CR123s are a little loose, but the springs seem sufficient to prevent any rattle. 

Pics to come when I have some time.

Thanks again Mark!


----------



## pancakeayaka

ten5three said:


> Cool complete Lumens Factory build!!



This is stunning!


----------



## [email protected]

ten5three said:


> Cool complete Lumens Factory build!!




Wow, this is too nice.
Crazy awesome stuff!!


----------



## ten5three

[email protected] said:


> Wow, this is too nice.
> Crazy awesome stuff!!




Thanks Mark. Your parts make it happen!


----------



## Renthall

I didnt like the looks of the kl4 heads looking at the pics on lumens factorys site but seeing them on the new bodies with the deep carry tailcap they look awesome.


----------



## ten5three

Renthall said:


> I didnt like the looks of the kl4 heads looking at the pics on lumens factorys site but seeing them on the new bodies with the deep carry tailcap they look awesome.



They looks great in person. The tan one I have pictured has the optional Ti “defender” bezel on it.


----------



## CanAm

Not the nicest shot, but this is one of the HA Nat bodies with a P60 head and the Z57 cap.This is my first foray into E-series and I didn't realize HOW MUCH smaller the bodies would be relative to P series. I'm planning to swap over to a VME head on this one and to one of LF's 3-mode low voltage heads on the single-cell body when they're back in stock for a more pocketable light.

Mark is right about the colors though, it's too light to be a good match. Very nice in their own right, but more bronze and lighter than his other HA Nat stuff. 
Feels good in the hand, the knurling and threads are very well done. Nice LF logo placed discretely on the body, and I like the color even though it's not matchy-matchy.

Mcclicky tailcap is A+.


----------



## ten5three

Awesome. I can’t stop playing with the 18350 bodies and SW01 tailcaps.


----------



## ma tumba

ten5three said:


> Could you give a link to the specs for that driver? Thanks



https://copperandcurrent.com/collec...ibWHZvb1GEvguvf7Fp4dVuVcXnd1372G9U_wqXGvEpHsE


----------



## ten5three

ma tumba said:


> https://copperandcurrent.com/collec...ibWHZvb1GEvguvf7Fp4dVuVcXnd1372G9U_wqXGvEpHsE




Awesome thanks! Looks great. I’ll have to get a few when they get back in stock.


----------



## CanAm

Apologies if this is getting off-topic, but can anyone recommend a good holster for an E2 body with a Z52/Z57 unshrouded tailcap? 

I'm looking to keep this light on my belt at work or protect the lens and switch while it's in my bag. I did a little googling and searched the forums, but didn't fine anything besides a Rip-Offs that was designed for (I believe) Streamlight but fits E2 lights.

Thanks


----------



## Icarus

I'm using a 4" Maxpedition sheath for my E2e with Elite head and 5" Maxpedition sheath for my E2e's with a taller head like the KL1, KL4, Teardrop, etc...


----------



## CanAm

Icarus said:


> I'm using a 4" Maxpedition sheath for my E2e with Elite head and 5" Maxpedition sheath for my E2e's with a taller head like the KL1, KL4, Teardrop, etc...



Thanks, I will check those out. 

Here's my E2 running a Malkoff VME and NLL. Hard to beat for a 1-mode set-up.


----------



## [email protected]

Love how the light you created matched the multitool and the watch. 

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## akula88




----------



## newbie66

Dang, I am salivating with all the nice builds...

Still waiting for the 3 modes to be in stock.


----------



## ten5three

akula88 said:


>



Nice!


----------



## ampdude

Wow, that tailcap looks awesome. I thought that was E-series compatible SW01 style fatty at first. Can I put that on the wish list Mark? oo:oo:oo:oo:

SW01 fatty style about 85% scale of original for E-series.


----------



## Owen

That's what it is!
https://lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=568

I was just being hopeful when suggesting a Z59 equivalent a couple of months ago, so what a surprise to see that, and so quickly.
Mark said then that they had other tailcap options coming. He wasn't kidding!


----------



## thermal guy

Got a few of his SW01’s they really are fantastic!


----------



## LogansRun

Owen said:


> That's what it is!
> https://lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=568
> 
> I was just being hopeful when suggesting a Z59 equivalent a couple of months ago, so what a surprise to see that, and so quickly.
> Mark said then that they had other tailcap options coming. He wasn't kidding!


Oh danggg, you guys had to show me this! Last month, I received quite a large order from Lumensfactory. Now I'm going to have take another look and maybe put in another order... :drunk:


----------



## CanAm

[email protected] said:


> Love how the light you created matched the multitool and the watch.



Thanks Mark. Couldn't have done it without your hard work! 

TBH, I didn't notice the coordination until you pointed it out. Personal style, I guess... 



newbie66 said:


> Dang, I am salivating with all the nice builds...
> 
> Still waiting for the 3 modes to be in stock.



Definitely some nice set-ups in this thread. I'm also waiting on the 3-modes LV. Should make for a _very _nice backup light on the 18350 bodies.


----------



## ten5three

newbie66 said:


> Dang, I am salivating with all the nice builds...
> 
> Still waiting for the 3 modes to be in stock.





CanAm said:


> Definitely some nice set-ups in this thread. I'm also waiting on the 3-modes LV. Should make for a _very _nice backup light on the 18350 bodies.



Just so you guys know, if you pickup a single mode head with the emitter that you like, have a soldering iron, are able to de-solder three solder joints and solder two existing wires to a positive and negative terminal, a H17Fx driver fits perfectly in the place of the single mode driver. Then you get one of Mark’s awesome heads with a fully multi-mode, multi-brightness programmable UI. 

That’s what I did since none of the 3-mode versions were in stock. It’s awesome. It’s a pretty simple and straightforward swap and it all fits together perfectly. Also, if you get the driver with the button style battery contact you gain a little more room in the new 18350/18650 bodies and can run protected or unprotected batts at will.


----------



## ten5three




----------



## ten5three




----------



## [email protected]

akula88 said:


>



Love the light, akula88.
Looks like the light is riding on the bicycle, it is all made with my parts which is even better. 
Didn't know all the logos lines up, I didn't make them to be that way. LOL


----------



## [email protected]

ampdude said:


> Wow, that tailcap looks awesome. I thought that was E-series compatible SW01 style fatty at first. Can I put that on the wish list Mark? oo:oo:oo:oo:
> 
> SW01 fatty style about 85% scale of original for E-series.



Hi Ampdude, thanks for the support.
It is indeed a shrank down SW01 fatty that is made for the E Series, it is already available.

This is actually a result of a mix up, I was going to add Tritium slots on this but the staffs forgot to.
So this will probably be a one off batch.
Future batches will have the Tritium slots and available in both HA3 Black and HA3 Natural.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

ten5three said:


> Just so you guys know, if you pickup a single mode head with the emitter that you like, have a soldering iron, are able to de-solder three solder joints and solder two existing wires to a positive and negative terminal, a H17Fx driver fits perfectly in the place of the single mode driver. Then you get one of Mark’s awesome heads with a fully multi-mode, multi-brightness programmable UI.
> 
> That’s what I did since none of the 3-mode versions were in stock. It’s awesome. It’s a pretty simple and straightforward swap and it all fits together perfectly. Also, if you get the driver with the button style battery contact you gain a little more room in the new 18350/18650 bodies and can run protected or unprotected batts at will.



Awesome legos, ten5three. 

Yes, the head use a 17mm diameter circuit which is quite popular and it can be modded rather easily.
I still wouldn't recommend protected cells tho as there is absolutely no standards with the length between all the different brands.
So some of the longer ones can cause contact problems.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## thermal guy

Any idea as to when your HA3 Natural bodies will be available?


----------



## euroken

[email protected] said:


> Awesome legos, ten5three.
> 
> Yes, the head use a 17mm diameter circuit which is quite popular and it can be modded rather easily.
> I still wouldn't recommend protected cells tho as there is absolutely no standards with the length between all the different brands.
> So some of the longer ones can cause contact problems.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Thank you Mark! I haven't had the chance to post some of the awesome products I received but will follow up soon!

For many members, in regards to trying to accommodate different lengths of the cells, the problem is that the original e-series is based specifically for standardized CR123 cells with no positive spring on the light engine. This creates a lot of limitations as we now have varying lengths of 18350 cells (not to mention 18500 and 18650 cells), e-to-c heads with positive springs on the light engines, tail caps with varying internals with different spring lengths, etc. 

To date, the only true compatibility is the thread sizing (even the thread lengths differ, e.g. E2T-MV head, edcl1-t tail, etc).

I think we've come a long way into modifying the existing E-series line, thanks to members like Mark who continue to develop parts per request. I feel lucky with a simple fact that we now have a production part that can accommodate 18mm cells with e-head e-tail. 

Kudos again to you Mark!


----------



## ampdude

[email protected] said:


> Hi Ampdude, thanks for the support.
> It is indeed a shrank down SW01 fatty that is made for the E Series, it is already available.
> 
> This is actually a result of a mix up, I was going to add Tritium slots on this but the staffs forgot to.
> So this will probably be a one off batch.
> Future batches will have the Tritium slots and available in both HA3 Black and HA3 Natural.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



Mark, I had no idea you had done that, that is so cool. I just had to have some of those, and needed some more IMR-E2's as well for reserve, so I put an order in. I have an old E2D-BK Defender with the original version unreliable clicky switch that desperately needs this upgrade. I would really like to see an 85% scaled E series type III HA Natural version of an SW01 for the E-series in the future. They are much more common and would probably see more sales. I think it would be worth producing, a lot of people would like it for their E-series lights. I have plenty of E-series bodies I would love to put a scaled down SW01 style switch on with a McClicky. I would like a twisty version though too.

You might consider the "bakers hat" medium or SW01 "skinny" version as well, but I think most of us prefer the fatty or the bakers hat. The biggest attraction to me of the SW01 fatty aside from the looks is the ability to manipulate it well with gloves in cold weather. I think that's somewhat where the original design purpose came from.


----------



## [email protected]

thermal guy said:


> Any idea as to when your HA3 Natural bodies will be available?



They are in the works.
I found a new anodising company, so far samples has proven to be nice.
Need to remake all the stuff so it will take a couple weeks, I am trying to bring them out as soon as possible.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

euroken said:


> Thank you Mark! I haven't had the chance to post some of the awesome products I received but will follow up soon!
> 
> For many members, in regards to trying to accommodate different lengths of the cells, the problem is that the original e-series is based specifically for standardized CR123 cells with no positive spring on the light engine. This creates a lot of limitations as we now have varying lengths of 18350 cells (not to mention 18500 and 18650 cells), e-to-c heads with positive springs on the light engines, tail caps with varying internals with different spring lengths, etc.
> 
> To date, the only true compatibility is the thread sizing (even the thread lengths differ, e.g. E2T-MV head, edcl1-t tail, etc).
> 
> I think we've come a long way into modifying the existing E-series line, thanks to members like Mark who continue to develop parts per request. I feel lucky with a simple fact that we now have a production part that can accommodate 18mm cells with e-head e-tail.
> 
> Kudos again to you Mark!



Thank you for your continued support, euroken. 
I still have many things in the works, just don't seem to have enough time for everything. LOL.

The most important thing for me now is to solve that HA3 Natural issue, my new supplier's samples came out well.
So if the production lot turns out to be good, I can at least put that problem to rest.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

ampdude said:


> Mark, I had no idea you had done that, that is so cool. I just had to have some of those, and needed some more IMR-E2's as well for reserve, so I put an order in. I have an old E2D-BK Defender with the original version unreliable clicky switch that desperately needs this upgrade. I would really like to see an 85% scaled E series type III HA Natural version of an SW01 for the E-series in the future. They are much more common and would probably see more sales. I think it would be worth producing, a lot of people would like it for their E-series lights. I have plenty of E-series bodies I would love to put a scaled down SW01 style switch on with a McClicky. I would like a twisty version though too.
> 
> You might consider the "bakers hat" medium or SW01 "skinny" version as well, but I think most of us prefer the fatty or the bakers hat. The biggest attraction to me of the SW01 fatty aside from the looks is the ability to manipulate it well with gloves in cold weather. I think that's somewhat where the original design purpose came from.



Hi Ampdude,

Yes, I am making the HA3 Natural version of the SW01 for the E Series in the near future.
I am planning to put tritium slots in them (which was the original plan), so the HA3 Natural version will probably have those.
I might phase out the current version when the tritium slotted version is released.

A twisty version is a possibility, I'll see if the twisty internals that we have fit or not.

The "bakers hat" (Slim) and SW01 "Skinny" (UM00) will be released soon in the C/P format, I will look into shrinking them down for the E Series.
Thank you for the suggestion.

Yes, I think the ability to manipulate the tailcap with gloves on was the original intention of the SW01's design.

Thank you for the order and continued support.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ampdude

Cool, I like everything you mentioned, but I would prefer the HA-NAT without the tritium slots. Just my personal preference if you happen to do a small run of those for E. I'll have to take a look at the tritium ones as well, though I prefer my flashlights to be "tactical"  so nothing on them that would give me away like tritium or glotube type stuff. I like to be a ninja sometimes.


----------



## [email protected]

ampdude said:


> Cool, I like everything you mentioned, but I would prefer the HA-NAT without the tritium slots. Just my personal preference if you happen to do a small run of those for E. I'll have to take a look at the tritium ones as well, though I prefer my flashlights to be "tactical"  so nothing on them that would give me away like tritium or glotube type stuff. I like to be a ninja sometimes.



I am happy to hear that you liked the upcoming items.
They will not be the same thing the Surefire has tho, the "Bakers Hat" (Slim) will have Tritium slots added and will use the McClicky switch with a copper retainer.
The "Skinny" (UM00) will also have Tritium slots added and will use a full copper plunger momentary switch with Beryllium Copper springs and silicone Switch Boots.
I don't want them to be the exact same thing as an existing item, so I want to do what I can to add a bit of twist or favour to them. 

I think I will make a small run of the plain E Series SW01 in HA3 Natural since you mention it.
If the reception is good, maybe I'll keep it in production along side the Tritium slotted version.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## yclo

Perfect for a slim 18350 triple and only a tiny bit bigger than the pocket rocket!


----------



## [email protected]

> Perfect for a slim 18350 triple and only a tiny bit bigger than the pocket rocket!



Wow looking real sweet, YC.
Did you mod the Smoothie head yourself?
That E2 looks awesome as well.

Been a long time since we last met, maybe stop by the workshop when you have the time.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Tempest UK

Thanks in large part to this thread I've received some new LF parts this morning. I've had some Lumens Factory TailCap internals and lamps before but this is my first time trying out external components and putting a whole light together.

I'm really very impressed and I'm looking forward to trying out some more options in the not too distant future!






This is the E2P body, E series SW01 and P60-E head running the HO-4. Between the machining of the body and the shape of the TailCap this is probably the grippiest light I've ever used, it feels very secure in hand! 






I also "upgraded" (not sure that's the right work going from LED to incan!) my E1B to run the LF HO-E1R. As you can tell from all of the wear on it, the original E1B has seen a lot of use over the c. 12 years since I bought it, but it doesn't play well with rechargeables so it was time to change it up. The smaller size is nice, too. 






Finally a quick comparison of a few E series TailCaps.

Thanks for your help with this order, Mark. As you can see from both of these being incandescent I'm something of a dinosaur so it's great to have these options still being supported. Being able to put together a new incan light in 2021 is great fun!


----------



## [email protected]

Tempest UK said:


> Thanks in large part to this thread I've received some new LF parts this morning. I've had some Lumens Factory TailCap internals and lamps before but this is my first time trying out external components and putting a whole light together.
> 
> I'm really very impressed and I'm looking forward to trying out some more options in the not too distant future!
> 
> Finally a quick comparison of a few E series TailCaps.
> 
> Thanks for your help with this order, Mark. As you can see from both of these being incandescent I'm something of a dinosaur so it's great to have these options still being supported. Being able to put together a new incan light in 2021 is great fun!




Thank you for your continued support, Tempest_UK.
Putting together an incan in 2021 is definitely fun, a lot of us over at the incandescent sub-forum will probably agree that you have actually "upgraded" that old E1B to an incan. 

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## CanAm

Stop it, you're making me want an Incan E setup...


----------



## ma tumba

Never been a fan of the full size sw01 tailcaps but these downscaled versions look really nice!


----------



## thermal guy

They do look go through 😁


----------



## [email protected]

CanAm said:


> Stop it, you're making me want an Incan E setup...



You are never truly a E Series owner until you have an Incan one.


----------



## [email protected]

thermal guy said:


> They do look go through 




It looks awesome, Thermal Guy.
Thanks for the support.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ampdude

Mark, I was PM'ing a fellow forum member about his lost E2O. He just has the head and burned out lamp, lost the body and tailcap. I was recommending your replacement parts and I noticed that you don't exactly offer an MN02 type lamp assembly. For some reason I thought the 50 lumen one was, but then as I was looking I saw and remembered that it was a 3.6V lamp. Just a suggestion, but it might be nice to offer an E2O replacement in the line-up. Something 6V in the 40-50 lumen range. I'm not sure it would be a big seller, but might fill in a gap there if you have the opportunity to make some at some point.


----------



## thermal guy

+1 on this. That was a great bulb with great runtime.


----------



## ampdude

thermal guy said:


> +1 on this. That was a great bulb with great runtime.



I still use them in a couple lights all the time. I actually have a good stash of them and I've never burned one out. I even have a couple old E2e's configured with the long pocket clip. One is a little more used and has a Z57, I carry it pretty often. I don't carry any actual E2O's, they're too much of collector items these days. Especially the two flats body version.


----------



## [email protected]

ampdude said:


> Mark, I was PM'ing a fellow forum member about his lost E2O. He just has the head and burned out lamp, lost the body and tailcap. I was recommending your replacement parts and I noticed that you don't exactly offer an MN02 type lamp assembly. For some reason I thought the 50 lumen one was, but then as I was looking I saw and remembered that it was a 3.6V lamp. Just a suggestion, but it might be nice to offer an E2O replacement in the line-up. Something 6V in the 40-50 lumen range. I'm not sure it would be a big seller, but might fill in a gap there if you have the opportunity to make some at some point.



Hi Ampdude,

Thank you for recommending our products to him, I am grateful for the kind gesture. 

Unfortunately, developing a new incandescent lamp is next to impossible nowadays in 2021.
Incandescent sales is a fraction of a fraction of what it once was and we are struggling even to keep the incandescent line-up available.
We will do our best keep the incandescent line-up available, but making a new model is not possible with the limited resource at hand and the already small and continuously diminishing market.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## ampdude

Mark, finally got to the parts I ordered. Thank you for the extras. You read my mind, the "mystery item" is exactly what I was looking for! When I get a chance I'll be removing the McClicky and installing that. For the time being it will remain McClicky though. This E2D came with the original (unreliable) version of the scalloped Z68. This is definitely a huge improvement.  Definitely will like some of these in HA twisty to make some cold weather friendly E2's/E2e's.


----------



## thermal guy

Them SW01’s are a home run! Love them.


----------



## id30209

@Mark
Are we gonna see HA Natural E-SW01 or just black?


Sent from Tapatalk


----------



## a1sealbeach

I bet we will see both eventually. But hope to see some more creative touches with vintage and classic look. Thanks Mark.


----------



## Silent Scope

@Mark

Do you still have any of the single cell bodies from the miscolored Natural batch? 

Do you know what 18350s are compatible with the single cell bodies?

I look forward to making a great EDC light with this body, one of your Deep Pocket Carry Tailcap, and my Malkoff E2HT!


----------



## ma tumba

Re new incand bulbs, I think fivemega/tad's type adapter for bipin bulbs would be a more realistic solution. There are still plenty bulbs with whatever voltage you want and 5mm leds also fit. Even 1.5 bulbs are available, going to get some for the future AA body


----------



## [email protected]

id30209 said:


> @Mark
> Are we gonna see HA Natural E-SW01 or just black?
> Sent from Tapatalk



Soon, all the new items that you see that only has the HA3 Black should have a HA3 Natural version to begin with.
If it was not for the bad shade, it would have been released together with the HA3 Black.

I am making a new batch, fingers crossed that they will turn out good.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

a1sealbeach said:


> I bet we will see both eventually. But hope to see some more creative touches with vintage and classic look. Thanks Mark.



That is exactly what I am trying to do. 
Trying to bring back the old school, but want to spice them up a little.


----------



## [email protected]

Silent Scope said:


> @Mark
> 
> Do you still have any of the single cell bodies from the miscolored Natural batch?
> 
> Do you know what 18350s are compatible with the single cell bodies?
> 
> I look forward to making a great EDC light with this body, one of your Deep Pocket Carry Tailcap, and my Malkoff E2HT!




Yes, I still have the entire batch sitting here. LOL.
Might bring them out as discounted "Close Outs" in the near future.
They are actually quite rare as I have only made 100 pcs of the 1 cell and 2 cell bodies as the initial test batch and stopped after the shade were not satisfactory.
So these mis-shaded" ones are actually a rare piece of Lumens Factory history in a sense.


----------



## tech25

[email protected] said:


> Might bring them out as discounted "Close Outs" in the near future.



awesome! I'm in for one 18350. I like the mismatched color.


----------



## Silent Scope

[email protected] said:


> Might bring them out as discounted "Close Outs" in the near future.



Put me on the list for one!


----------



## TD3030

Has anyone run these with a Malkoff MDC head yet? The E1 with the deep carry clip seems like a perfect compact EDC with the MDC head.


----------



## Silent Scope

TD3030 said:


> Has anyone run these with a Malkoff MDC head yet? The E1 with the deep carry clip seems like a perfect compact EDC with the MDC head.



I agree, the Malkoff heads with this small body seem to be the answer I was looking for. I love my E2HT head on a SF 2 cell E body using 16650, but I really wanted a shorter 1 cell setup that could actually take a rechargeable with decent capacity/runtime (ie 18350).


----------



## ampdude

tech25 said:


> awesome! I'm in for one 18350. I like the mismatched color.



Same. Complete dorks need matching anodizing on their lights. It doesn't lend to the strength or have any purpose. Type III anodizing just goes how it goes depending on the material it's binding to. The anodizing is important, and having lighter or darker colors on parts has no effect on the real world performance. And IMO looks good too.

I have a lot of old school Surefire lights that have different colored parts depending on the anodizing and they look awesome.


----------



## soldonsurefire

I have a few products that I bought from LF and they're top quality.

I'm waiting for billing so I can purchase a few more of their creative and well machined items.


----------



## soldonsurefire

ampdude said:


> Same. Complete dorks need matching anodizing on their lights. It doesn't lend to the strength or have any purpose. Type III anodizing just goes how it goes depending on the material it's binding to. The anodizing is important, and having lighter or darker colors on parts has no effect on the real world performance. And IMO looks good too.
> 
> I have a lot of old school Surefire lights that have different colored parts depending on the anodizing and they look awesome.



I've been trying to send a PM to you for a few days.

Apparently your in-box is full.


----------



## ampdude

soldonsurefire said:


> I've been trying to send a PM to you for a few days.
> 
> Apparently your in-box is full.



Sorry I'll clean it out now. Thanks for the notification. :thumbsup:


----------



## yclo

P60 to E head pair with Oveready body for a tiny Z.


----------



## pancakeayaka

Hi yclo, are the head thread of the Oveready body anodized? Does it work with other heads like SF/Malkoff?


----------



## yclo

pancakeayaka said:


> Hi yclo, are the head thread of the Oveready body anodized? Does it work with other heads like SF/Malkoff?



The threads are anodized with only the top surface exposed, see the picture here.

Most SF heads (and probably Malkoff) should work with the exception of some that require longer threads like the SF E2T Tactician. My E2T head doesn't work on most E series bodies.

Lumens Factory Z grip rings fit perfectly.

-YC


----------



## pilo7448

Yclo.. What heads are those? 

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## pancakeayaka

yclo said:


> The threads are anodized with only the top surface exposed, see the picture here.
> 
> Most SF heads (and probably Malkoff) should work with the exception of some that require longer threads like the SF E2T Tactician. My E2T head doesn't work on most E series bodies.
> 
> Lumens Factory Z grip rings fit perfectly.
> 
> -YC




Thank you very much!:thumbsup:


----------



## yclo

pilo7448 said:


> Yclo.. What heads are those?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk



Lumens Factory E Series Smoothie Head & P60 to E Head


----------



## akula88

[email protected] said:


> ...
> The most important thing for me now is to solve that HA3 Natural issue, my new supplier's samples came out well.
> So if the production lot turns out to be good, I can at least put that problem to rest.
> ...
> 
> Mark



Mark, any update on the release time table of the HA-Natural e-series bodies and tailcaps


----------



## [email protected]

akula88 said:


> Mark, any update on the release time table of the HA-Natural e-series bodies and tailcaps



Hi Akula88,

The HA-Natural stuff came out pretty good, so we are making them batch by batch.
The first couple items will be posted this week.
I'll keep you guys updated.

Thank you for your support.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

The above 4 items were released in HA3 Naturals today.
We have finally got the HA3 Natural shade sorted and other HA3 Natural items will follow in the coming weeks.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

On another note, Z46 Bezel Removal Tool and KT Series Bezel Removal Tools are also released.
Along with he Copper Plunger Upgrade Kit for the Old-School Z14, Z31 and UM00 Tailcaps.
It even comes with 2 Silicone replacement tailcap boots in both the "Recessed" and "Raised" styles to replace those 20 years old probably dry rotted and rock hard rubber tailcap boots.
Never would have guessed that we would make these, am I right? LOL 

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## thermal guy

Wow! Great work.


----------



## pilo7448

Very nice[emoji1690]

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## knucklegary

... work of Art! :twothumbs


----------



## a1sealbeach

Outstanding interpretation of vintage Surefire into modern world. I can hardly wait to see more pieces coming. I am also impressed by adding tools for very basic repairs.


----------



## Owen

[email protected] said:


> Never would have guessed that we would make these, am I right? LOL


Never! 
"Other HA3 natural items will follow in the coming weeks", huh?
Items already pictured, perhaps?


----------



## [email protected]

Owen said:


> Never!
> "Other HA3 natural items will follow in the coming weeks", huh?
> Items already pictured, perhaps?



The next batch of HA3 Natural items are still at the anodizer.
So they are not ready and definitely not pictured.
I’ll post updates here as soon as I got them, so no worries.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Eric242

I just received among other things a P60 to E head. That is a really small one for a P60/D26 dropin. Paired with a 18350 body and a switch it is a really great looking and pretty small light. I am waiting for the natural 18350 E bodies to show up and order anothre P60 to E in natural this time. The SW01 and the Pineapples are great as well. I never really liked the Pineapples judging from the pictures but ordered one anyway (6PP) but it is a really good lookig combo with the SW01 switch.

Mark, thanks for keeping the oldschool Surefire flame burning.
Eric


----------



## Owen

[email protected] said:


> The next batch of HA3 Natural items are still at the anodizer.
> So they are not ready and definitely not pictured.
> I’ll post updates here as soon as I got them, so no worries.


Well, I was stopped short for a second when I scrolled down and saw those C series bodies. I know they'd be a pain to make compared to a round E body, and don't know how a full-size P60 host might fare nowadays, but who doesn't love a C2-HA?


----------



## thermal guy

Any chance of making a teardrop head with the clip attached?


----------



## akula88

Has anyone use this newest protected KeepPower 18350 1400mAh on the e-series 18350 bodies?






There is measurement saying that its 39mm x 18.55mm. 
But HKJ's review  states that it's -- 38.6mm x 18.3mm.


----------



## [email protected]

Eric242 said:


> I just received among other things a P60 to E head. That is a really small one for a P60/D26 dropin. Paired with a 18350 body and a switch it is a really great looking and pretty small light. I am waiting for the natural 18350 E bodies to show up and order anothre P60 to E in natural this time. The SW01 and the Pineapples are great as well. I never really liked the Pineapples judging from the pictures but ordered one anyway (6PP) but it is a really good lookig combo with the SW01 switch.
> 
> Mark, thanks for keeping the oldschool Surefire flame burning.
> Eric




Thank you for the nice comments, Eric.
I am happy to hear that you liked them, the support from you guys is what keeps us going.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

Owen said:


> Well, I was stopped short for a second when I scrolled down and saw those C series bodies. I know they'd be a pain to make compared to a round E body, and don't know how a full-size P60 host might fare nowadays, but who doesn't love a C2-HA?



Oh, that was what you meant. Owen. LOL.
I love the C2-HA as well, it is in fact the number 1 D26 host in my heart.
Maybe I have something in the works, maybe I don't, who knows. 

But I do agree that it is a pain in the *** to make compared to round E bodies.
Anything with that clip slot is a pain to make to be honest, it needs to be really precise.
That's why you don't see many makers making them.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

thermal guy said:


> Any chance of making a teardrop head with the clip attached?



It's not that hard to make really, but market is a concern.
To make them I need to make a new clip that means a new stamp mold, they are not cheap so that's another concern.
I know I can definitely sell the clips and screws separately once these heads are made, so users can replace broken or lost clips and screws.
But again, market.
To be honest, I would have made them already if not for that clip. Stamping molds cost an arm and leg.


Could you tell me why you would like us to make these? 
Clipped heads is basically just good for round E Series bodies right?
I know some aftermarket bodies can use a clipped head, but ain't most aftermarket E bodies have a clip of some sort on the tailcap or the back of the body?
This is quite interesting actually, so please enlighten me on this.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## Eric242

Here is a pic of my favourite combo with the P60toE head. REALLY small for a P60dropin light. I know there are even smaller possibilities with CR2 bodies for example (though a CR2 cell with a triple or any modern dropin with a powerfull LED is just a gimmick to me) or with an OR ZeroRes shorty (which makes this light too small for my taste), but this one is just perfect for me. Unfortunatelly this one does not work (yet) due to the fact that the threads (head/bezel side only) on the Fivemega body were not masked during anodising (there always seems to be a problem of some sort with quite a few of his products).






The Pineapple/SW01 combo is still waiting for a KL5 to be deliverd (UPS performs a warehouse as well as an import scan every single day since april 28th now...:shakehead :fail.


----------



## thermal guy

Regarding the clipped head. I do love the looks of the old school E series round body and to have a standard head on it is a bit funny looking to me imo. But also the clip sits closer to the body as it runs down the length of the body with no bends. As it doesn’t stick out as far as the new body mounted clip it feel better in the hand when your using the light.And of course the only way to have a clip on your round bodies is to put the clip on the head.There lite enough to clip on a ball cap. And if you duplicate the old style round head kinda need a clip to keep it from rolling around. I guess I kinda just like the design 😁


----------



## [email protected]

Eric242 said:


> Here is a pic of my favourite combo with the P60toE head. REALLY small for a P60dropin light. I know there are even smaller possibilities with CR2 bodies for example (though a CR2 cell with a triple or any modern dropin with a powerfull LED is just a gimmick to me) or with an OR ZeroRes shorty (which makes this light too small for my taste), but this one is just perfect for me. Unfortunatelly this one does not work (yet) due to the fact that the threads (head/bezel side only) on the Fivemega body were not masked during anodising (there always seems to be a problem of some sort with quite a few of his products).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Pineapple/SW01 combo is still waiting for a KL5 to be deliverd (UPS performs a warehouse as well as an import scan every single day since april 28th now...:shakehead :fail.




Awesome setup, Eric.
Looks really nice and the size is just perfect.


----------



## [email protected]

thermal guy said:


> Regarding the clipped head. I do love the looks of the old school E series round body and to have a standard head on it is a bit funny looking to me imo. But also the clip sits closer to the body as it runs down the length of the body with no bends. As it doesn’t stick out as far as the new body mounted clip it feel better in the hand when your using the light.And of course the only way to have a clip on your round bodies is to put the clip on the head.There lite enough to clip on a ball cap. And if you duplicate the old style round head kinda need a clip to keep it from rolling around. I guess I kinda just like the design 



Well, I thought our Clipped tailcap would have solved the problem with clips on round bodies.
But you do have a solid point on the way the clipped head and round bodied E Series having a really close clip that does not stick out as far.
I totally understand what you are referring to as I found the clipped head with round bodies awesome to use as EDC with a simple Z52 McClicky which.
You just can't get more simpler and no frills than that setup.

I'll look into this a bit deeper and see if it is possible, no promises tho.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## Jose Marin

Finally got around to building the drop in and switch for this host. 219c 90 cri 5k with h17f and extra heat sink. Body is oveready and clip/tail boot is dark sucks. Thanks Mark


----------



## Silent Scope

akula88 said:


> Has anyone use this newest protected KeepPower 18350 1400mAh on the e-series 18350 bodies?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is measurement saying that its 39mm x 18.55mm.
> But HKJ's review  states that it's -- 38.6mm x 18.3mm.



I've been wondering the exact same thing. I was hoping to use these batteries with the new E series single cell body. Let me know if you get a concrete answer.


----------



## thermal guy

Them are pretty big cells.


----------



## sgt253

[email protected] said:


> Oh, that was what you meant. Owen. LOL.
> I love the C2-HA as well, it is in fact the number 1 D26 host in my heart.
> Maybe I have something in the works, maybe I don't, who knows.
> 
> But I do agree that it is a pain in the *** to make compared to round E bodies.
> Anything with that clip slot is a pain to make to be honest, it needs to be really precise.
> That's why you don't see many makers making them.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark







Mark,
Please make that C2 body! Ill buy one quicker than immediately! LOL.


----------



## [email protected]

Jose Marin said:


> Finally got around to building the drop in and switch for this host. 219c 90 cri 5k with h17f and extra heat sink. Body is oveready and clip/tail boot is dark sucks. Thanks Mark



Wow Jose, every part of this light is from a different maker yet it all fits in so nice.
This is the true lego spirit indeed.
Awesome setup.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

sgt253 said:


> Mark,
> Please make that C2 body! Ill buy one quicker than immediately! LOL.



I'll look into it.
A lot of projects and my hands are full, but it is definitely something that I would like to do.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## akula88

Couple of the recently-released LF E-series tailcaps and the 18350-BK body.


----------



## [email protected]

Awesome setups, akula88!!
Looks really nice.


----------



## thermal guy

You really hit it out of the park with them SW02’s


----------



## Eric242

Now there´s three of those little P60 buggers, a triple Although only one sports a triple, a sportac triple 






And the Pineapple completed with a XP-L Hi modded KL5


----------



## [email protected]

thermal guy said:


> You really hit it out of the park with them SW02’s



Lovely, setups.
Thank you for the continued support, thermal guy.


----------



## [email protected]

Eric242 said:


> Now there´s three of those little P60 buggers, a triple Although only one sports a triple, a sportac triple
> And the Pineapple completed with a XP-L Hi modded KL5



Thank you so much, Eric.
You seem to really like our P60 to E Head Units. 

That Pineapple with the KL5 looks sweet, KL5 is one of my most liked LED heads from Surefire.
The reflector is nice and deep and allows for a lot of room for mods.


----------



## Eric242

[email protected] said:


> You seem to really like our P60 to E Head Units.


Absolutely  I never was a fan of C-E adapters with the bigger heads on slimmer e-bodies. But the P60 to E head is really cool. A great idea and way to bring the P60 world to the E-series.



[email protected] said:


> That Pineapple with the KL5 looks sweet, KL5 is one of my most liked LED heads from Surefire.
> The reflector is nice and deep and allows for a lot of room for mods.


I like the KL5 very much as well. It has a decent throw while still providing good spill.

Cheers
Eric


----------



## greatscoot

Will a Malkoff dropin fit in that head?


----------



## thermal guy

Got a M31 in mine on a 1X123 malkoff. I actually like it better then the VME.


----------



## greatscoot

thermal guy said:


> Got a M31 in mine on a 1X123 malkoff. I actually like it better then the VME.


They look really solid, now I'm going to have to get a couple of those. In addition to some other really cool stuff on the LF site.


----------



## greatscoot

Any chance of an E series SW01 Tailcap with trit slots?


----------



## thermal guy

If I remember correctly there was to be slots in this batch but something happened. The next batch should have them. But don’t quote me just got my COVID shot and I’m getting old😁


----------



## [email protected]

greatscoot said:


> Any chance of an E series SW01 Tailcap with trit slots?



Yes, indeed.
thermal guy was right, the E Series SW01 Fatty was supposed to have tritium slots in the first place.
But our machinist forgot and it was found out after anodising so we can't really do anything.
That was why it launched without tritium slots.

I now have a change of plans however.
You see, in order to put tritium slots on the E Series SW01 Fatty, the dimensions would have to change so the look would be altered.
I made 3 rounds of prototypes and were not happy with any of them.

So the E Series SW01 Fatty tailcap will stay unchanged so it can retain the shape of the original SW01 Fatty. 

An E Series SW01 Slim aka "Baker's Cap" will be made with the tritium slots since the shape does not need to change and I am happy with the look of it.

While I am at it, I made a E Series SW01 "Skinny" aka UM00 as will, but that will not have tritium slots since there is no place to put them.

I don't usually reveal unreleased products, but I'll make an exception this time. 


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## id30209

[email protected] said:


> Yes, indeed.
> thermal guy was right, the E Series SW01 Fatty was supposed to have tritium slots in the first place.
> But our machinist forgot and it was found out after anodising so we can't really do anything.
> That was why it launched without tritium slots.
> 
> I now have a change of plans however.
> You see, in order to put tritium slots on the E Series SW01 Fatty, the dimensions would have to change so the look would be altered.
> I made 3 rounds of prototypes and were not happy with any of them.
> 
> So the E Series SW01 Fatty tailcap will stay unchanged so it can retain the shape of the original SW01 Fatty.
> 
> An E Series SW01 Slim aka "Baker's Cap" will be made with the tritium slots since the shape does not need to change and I am happy with the look of it.
> 
> While I am at it, I made a E Series SW01 "Skinny" aka UM00 as will, but that will not have tritium slots since there is no place to put them.
> 
> I don't usually reveal unreleased products, but I'll make an exception this time.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark





Oooooooooooooh

This is going to be hawt!


----------



## thermal guy

Ok who googled hawt??😁


----------



## greatscoot

[email protected] said:


> Yes, indeed.
> thermal guy was right, the E Series SW01 Fatty was supposed to have tritium slots in the first place.
> But our machinist forgot and it was found out after anodising so we can't really do anything.
> That was why it launched without tritium slots.
> 
> I now have a change of plans however.
> You see, in order to put tritium slots on the E Series SW01 Fatty, the dimensions would have to change so the look would be altered.
> I made 3 rounds of prototypes and were not happy with any of them.
> 
> So the E Series SW01 Fatty tailcap will stay unchanged so it can retain the shape of the original SW01 Fatty.
> 
> An E Series SW01 Slim aka "Baker's Cap" will be made with the tritium slots since the shape does not need to change and I am happy with the look of it.
> 
> While I am at it, I made a E Series SW01 "Skinny" aka UM00 as will, but that will not have tritium slots since there is no place to put them.
> 
> I don't usually reveal unreleased products, but I'll make an exception this time.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



That is great news, can’t wait to see these.


----------



## [email protected]

Hi Guys,

Some new items released today.
Not E Series related, these are the old school Z14/Z31 Style Tailcaps that use the "Plunger" type momentary switch.
We used our new Copper Plunger momentary switch for it.

While we were at it we made the SW01 "Skinny" Tailcap which used the same plunger switch, but we spiced it up with the addition of 8 Tritium slots.
The old style "Recessed Smooth" and "Raised Checkered" Silicone Tailcap boots for the above 2 tailcaps are also available separately and also made in GITD.

Now you can finally replace those 2 decades old dry rotted rubber tailcap boots on your old style Laser Products lights with these new silicone tailcap boots.

Hope you guys like them.


Mark


----------



## marco.weiss

Really awesome Mark!


----------



## thermal guy

That SW01 is next on my list! Looks awesome.


----------



## id30209

Oh yes...


Sent from Tapatalk


----------



## a1sealbeach

Hey. Mark. Great work. I love it. So what did you decided to make top thickness on this UM00 Tailcap?

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

a1sealbeach said:


> Hey. Mark. Great work. I love it. So what did you decided to make top thickness on this UM00 Tailcap?
> Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk



Good question, not many people knows about the 2 different versions of the UM00 nowadays.
I made the version with the thinner top, so there is more room for travel for the plunger switch.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## a1sealbeach

You probably already knew, but some thin top UM switches come with O-ring. If it's not, then it would be missing. I was guessing that O-ring compensate that different thickness. Or simply hold boot better inside of switch. I love hear from someone who knows better than I do.

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## SMar

thermal guy said:


> Got a M31 in mine on a 1X123 malkoff. I actually like it better then the VME.



Which head are you referring to?


----------



## [email protected]

a1sealbeach said:


> You probably already knew, but some thin top UM switches come with O-ring. If it's not, then it would be missing. I was guessing that O-ring compensate that different thickness. Or simply hold boot better inside of switch. I love hear from someone who knows better than I do.
> Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk



Yes, "thin top" UM switches comes with a thick O-Ring that compensate for the different in thickness.
It is used and needed to hold the 2 versions of tape switch. (the UM07 fixed cord tape switch and the other version that has a detachable cord)

When a Plunger Switch is used, that O-Ring is not used because it will interfere with the travel of the switch. 

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## a1sealbeach

Ah. I totally forget about newer UMxx with speratable internal switch. Yap it make sense. Thanks Mark to recall my old memory.

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## id30209

Mark is truely amazing. 
P60-E head and E2T clip tailcap paired with Fivemega 18500 E body.






Sent from Tapatalk


----------



## pilo7448

I like that[emoji2937]

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## akula88

I finally received from additional tailcaps from the mail yesterday. Along with it are Mark's (LF) 'discarded test sample' of the HA-Natural E2 and E1 18650 bodies. Mark intimated that he was not satisfied with the anodizing tint. But frankly, it was near perfect with me -- as it's near the brownish tint of latest E1L/E2e body/tailcap (sorry not on the photo); although it's relatively in contrast with the original grayish-gray of the SF E-series.






Close-up of the (HA-Nat test sample) E1 18650 body


----------



## Scotty321

I apologize if this is the wrong thread for this, but... has Lumens Factory ever considered making a right angle head for the e-series bodies?


----------



## [email protected]

Actually, no.
I haven't considered making a right angle head for the E-Series bodies.
I will give it some thought.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## [email protected]

The E Series Gen 1 Bodies in HA3 Natural has finally been completed and released.

Along with our B90/B92 to 18650 Battery Adapter.

Hope you guys like them.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## sp00ky

lumensbadger said:


> Hi Mark.
> 
> Are you contemplating to introduce an adapter that would make it possible to attach a Surefire Dual Fuel Scout head to an e series body?
> 
> That should be a quite simple task, depending on the inner / outer thread diameters of the head / light body.











Weltool DF2E Copper adapter for LH Series Light head to SF MH30 MH60 E Series | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Weltool DF2E Copper adapter for LH Series Light head to SF MH30 MH60 E Series at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com





I wondered if this could help the issue.


----------



## [email protected]

Hey Guys,

Just released the SW01 Slim "Baker's Cap" Tailcaps for the E Series.
HA3 Natural and HA3 Black.
Plain style and Tritium Slotted versions are available.
Momentary Twisty and McClicky as switch options.

Hope you guys like them.


----------



## Icarus

The look really good!


----------



## Icarus

Mark, any idea when the bodies with the flat sides will become available?


----------



## thermal guy

Man getting one for my E1! That looks sharp.


----------



## jwyj

Have you ever had a sale?
How about giving CPFers a nice discount coupon for buying from you regularly. 😅 I would welcome a coupon for some e parts.


----------



## marco.weiss

awesome as always. thanks lf!!!


----------



## [email protected]

Icarus said:


> Mark, any idea when the bodies with the flat sides will become available?



We are working on it, hopefully it could be released within the year.
Thank you for your continued support.


----------



## [email protected]

jwyj said:


> Have you ever had a sale?
> How about giving CPFers a nice discount coupon for buying from you regularly. 😅 I would welcome a coupon for some e parts.



We do have discounted prices on some of the individual items that we want to move.

But I think what you meant is like a CPF special?
We had the one of those back when it all started in 2006 when we were still using emails to take orders manually.
Hasn't had any since because our check out system do not have a coupon system built in.
I will see if it is possible to add on in when the next system upgrade comes around.


Cheers.

Mark


----------



## yazkaz

Great job Mark. Just one small issue though: your version of medium-press boot for such setup feels a bit on the soft (soft-press) side. A hard-press version would definitely help match the aggressive form profiles of your E-series tailcap hosts.

BTW I wonder if the med-press boot from the Lighthound/OR era would fit without issue? I'd better check next time...

As for coupon code system, don't worry about it until you have time to implement that in your next web store update. I'd say, a small percentage discount like the one used in Lighthound back then (code "cpf") would be OK.


----------



## tech25

Just ordered an E1 body and drop in. Can’t wait to Lego them!


----------



## [email protected]

yazkaz said:


> Great job Mark. Just one small issue though: your version of medium-press boot for such setup feels a bit on the soft (soft-press) side. A hard-press version would definitely help match the aggressive form profiles of your E-series tailcap hosts.
> 
> BTW I wonder if the med-press boot from the Lighthound/OR era would fit without issue? I'd better check next time...
> 
> As for coupon code system, don't worry about it until you have time to implement that in your next web store update. I'd say, a small percentage discount like the one used in Lighthound back then (code "cpf") would be OK.


I hear you, I understand there are a fan base with those “hard press” boots. Which I entirely know the reason of.

Our E boots are the same stiffness as fresh stock boots, which we actually have to spent a lot of time to tune it just right. When paired with the McClicky, the press feel will feel “softer” than the stock tailcap. That is because the McClicky has a much softer click than the stock Surefire switch.

Cheers 

Mark


----------



## tech25

Got an e1 body and the single mode xpl 3k drop in. 
The tint is great puts a smile on my face and with an 18350 should give me over an hour of use.


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## [email protected]

Awesome, setup. tech25.
Look real sleek and clean.

Cheers.


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## tech25

I really like the different shades of the Natural. The tail cap matches the bezel and the body matches the head it adds personality. (The head and tail cap are Surefire, the body is Lumens factory) 

The machining is excellent, I love the texture.


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## yclo

Turns out the LF E2T clip can fit on the head side, to use it this way with normal E heads will probably require a spacer to get the head to make electrical contact though.

-YC


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## Duster1671

How are these 18350/18650 Classic bodies holding up in use? Has anyone broken the threads from a drop?

A 18.5mm ID doesn't leave a lot of wall for the (I think) 13/16-20 UNEF threads on the head.


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## thermal guy

Honestly this is the main reason I haven’t gotten one yet. Really want an old round body but it has been stated by some on here that there ain’t much thickness here. I’m happy with 2X123 or a16650.


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## Duster1671

Well, a minor diameter of .7530" over a 18.5mm ID leaves .012" at the root of the threads. Intuition says this is too thin, but the strength of thin-walled cylinders can be surprisingly good.

There's obviously enough strength here that the threads don't break simply by cinching the parts together a few times, or the bodies wouldn't exist for sale.

Are these 7075-T6 aluminum? Edit: I see on the LF webpage that they are 7075-T6. That's a definite plus.


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## Icarus

thermal guy said:


> Honestly this is the main reason I haven’t gotten one yet. Really want an old round body but it has been stated by some on here that there ain’t much thickness here. I’m happy with 2X123 or a16650.



I'm sharing your concern. I'm using a LF 16650 body for some time now which I'm very happy with. I'm perfectly satisfied with using 16650 cells. Also, the 18650 bodies are meant for use with unprotected cells while I still prefer the safety of protected cells. I'm looking forward to the new flat side bodies but I'm afraid they are also only going to be offered in a 18650 version.


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## Duster1671

I received one of the 18350-compatible E1 Classic bodies today along with a Z75 tailcap and KL4-style 3-mode head. It's a nice little setup.

However, I tried my Surefire KL4 head (circa 2007) on the Lumens Factory body and it did not fit. I can screw it on maybe a half a turn before the threads bind up.

The Lumens Factory head fits on the L4 body, but the SF head does not fit on the Lumens Factory body. So much for lego...


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## [email protected]

Our bodies should fit the Surefire KL4 head (and other Surefire E Series heads) fine, Duster1671.
Above is a photo that I just took right now with our E1 Classic body and a Surefire KL4 head unit, no lube added, threads on perfectly. 
The Surefire KL4 head you have might have dirty threads, cleaning the threads and adding a bit of lube should solve the issue.

Feel free to contact me at the company email if you need anything for faster service as I don't log on to CPF as often as I check my emails.

About your questions regarding the threads on the 18650 bodies.
We beefed up the weak spot on the bodies where 18650 bored Surefire bodies happen to all break.
We have had no incidents of the bodies breaking as far as I know.
I sent a dozen bodies to CPFers to test for 2 months before release and asked them to use them as roughly (but not purposefully trying to break them obviously) and they all held up fine.

And yes, our future E Series bodies will be made in 18350 and 18650 configurations.
But I am not barring out making 16650 bodies again in the future if there is demand for them.

Cheers.


Mark


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## Duster1671

Thanks Mark. I'll try cleaning the threads on the KL4. I have a E2E head that binds up too, and that one hasn't been cleaned recently either.

I'll try tonight and report the results.


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## SMar

When will the E2 classic bodies in HA3 Natural be available again? I was ready to order but only see black.


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## Duster1671

Just an update on the issue I posted about above--

There was an issue with the threads on the E1 body I had, causing it to thread into some E-series heads but not others. Mark investigated and sent me a replacement that works perfectly with all the E-series heads I have. Thanks again Mark!


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## [email protected]

SMar said:


> When will the E2 classic bodies in HA3 Natural be available again? I was ready to order but only see black.


They will be back on the site next week.

Thank you for your support.


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## [email protected]

Duster1671 said:


> Just an update on the issue I posted about above--
> 
> There was an issue with the threads on the E1 body I had, causing it to thread into some E-series heads but not others. Mark investigated and sent me a replacement that works perfectly with all the E-series heads I have. Thanks again Mark!


Just doing my job, thank you for your help with the investigation. It really helps with improving our quality control for all future E bodies.

Cheers. 

Mark


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## CanAm

I finally built up an 18650 body and tailcap I had sitting around for a while. A smoothie head and tungsten lamp arrived in the post this morning and I slipped it all together after dinner. I have to say I'm very happy with it. It's a nice, small packaged with good output. Beam was very nice with the OP reflector, no holes and fairly smooth/round. Didn't even need the included shims, though they are a nice touch.


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## ampdude

[email protected] said:


> Just doing my job, thank you for your help with the investigation. It really helps with improving our quality control for all future E bodies.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark



I'm curious, was it a wrong thread pitch or something?


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## SMar

[email protected] said:


> They will be back on the site next week.
> 
> Thank you for your support.


That great news--thanks for the update, Mark.


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## Eric242

Triple LED dropins available too now https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product.php?cid=50
Mark, how would one install the GITD gaskets on these?


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## [email protected]

Eric242 said:


> Triple LED dropins available too now https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product.php?cid=50
> Mark, how would one install the GITD gaskets on these?



Hi Eric,

Thank you for your support.
There is a threaded ring on top of the module, just unscrew that and take the Carclo Optics out and install the glow gaskets.

PS. I designed our Triples to be FULLY compatible with our P60 to E Head Units. Absolutely ZERO gaps.











Happy New Year.

Mark


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## thermal guy

These look great. Might see if they will fit in a VME head and try in on a 1X123 body With a 16340!


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## Eric242

[email protected] said:


> There is a threaded ring on top of the module, just unscrew that and take the Carclo Optics out and install the glow gaskets.



🌞 nice, that´s pretty easy.


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## CanAm

@[email protected] 

Just curious, are there any plans to do another batch of E-series bodies with the pocket clip? I've been enjoying the two 18650s I bought last year but wouldn't mind swapping the one I use at work for a body with a clip.


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## Duster1671

CanAm - A good alternative to a body with a clip might be the Tactician style deep-carry tailcap. I have one of those on an E-series body and I really like it.


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## CanAm

Duster1671 said:


> CanAm - A good alternative to a body with a clip might be the Tactician style deep-carry tailcap. I have one of those on an E-series body and I really like it.


Not a bad idea, definitely something to look into. I just prefer to keep the lens end up, out of my pocket and away from whatever tools might be in there while I'm on the clock.


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## tombo437

@[email protected]

Do you have any plans to make a P60 to DF adapter or head? I have a few Seraph SP-6s and other P60 lights, and it would be cool to be able to swap the P60-sized modules onto my Modlite.


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## bykfixer

Mark keepin' the dream alive in 2022.


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## [email protected]

tombo437 said:


> @[email protected]
> 
> Do you have any plans to make a P60 to DF adapter or head? I have a few Seraph SP-6s and other P60 lights, and it would be cool to be able to swap the P60-sized modules onto my Modlite.



Never thought of it, I might look into it now that Surefire is making more DF bodies.

Cheers.

Mark


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## [email protected]

CanAm said:


> @[email protected]
> 
> Just curious, are there any plans to do another batch of E-series bodies with the pocket clip? I've been enjoying the two 18650s I bought last year but wouldn't mind swapping the one I use at work for a body with a clip.


Yes, we are hard at work trying to bring a series of clipped E Bodies out this year.


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## [email protected]

bykfixer said:


> Mark keepin' the dream alive in 2022.


Thank you for the support, byfixer.
Just trying to continue the passion, I am a Surefire lego lover myself so I want to bring more parts out for everyone to update and upgrade their lights. Both older and newer platforms.


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## ampdude

Need to post a comparison pic of the SF SW01 vs. Lumens Factory mini SW01 for E-series. Lights are a Surefire M3 Turbo and a Surefire E2D. Such a nice job done with these tailcaps!!!!


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## troutpool

ampdude said:


> Such a nice job done with these tailcaps!!!!


I agree. An SW01 tailcap, Fatty or Slim, is an outstanding addition to an E-series build.


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## ampdude

troutpool said:


> I agree. An SW01 tailcap, Fatty or Slim, is an outstanding addition to an E-series build.



And it's amazing I can actually turn on an E-series light wearing gloves now. Twist and go. You kind of could with a Z52, but not as easily. Who would have thought that would happen... Most importantly.. it just looks cool though.


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## chip100t

I am thinking at a lumens factory 2 cell classic e series body that can take 18650 unprotected cells.
Unprotected cells are fine with lumens factory e series heads as they have low voltage protection built in, but what about with my surefire defender ultra 1000 lm head.
Would that drain unprotected cells beyond safe levels if I was not careful?
Any other reasons why unprotected cells may not be ideal with surefire heads?

Any h lp would be appreciated.


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## vicv

Well surefires are generally designed for lithium primary cells so they have no need for low voltage protection. Actually it would be a downside as you wouldn’t be able to completely drain your cells. So no, it will not have LVP. Other issues, well depending on the design you may overdrive the circuitry and ruin the light as the voltage for rechargeable cells are higher voltage. And a single 18650 may not be enough


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## Long RunTime

Got some from Mark today. Got the brass bezel for my RPM brass body & tailcap, I wish he made the brass and Titanium e head, too. 
From front row left to right:
1) C2 with PEU bezel and SW01 Skinny (aka UM00) McClicky Tailcap.
2) 6PP pineapple with Z44 Tritium Slotted Bezel and OR Triad tailcap.
3) E2P Pineapple with P60 to E Bezel and E Series SW01 Slim 'Baker's Cap'.
4) OR E70 body with P60 to E bezel and Defender Tritium Slotted Tailstanding McClicky Tailcap for Surefire P/Z/G/C.
5) E2 Classic Gen 1 with E Series Teardrop 3 Mode Head Unit and E Series Deep Pocket Carry Tailcap.
6) E1 Classic Gen 1 with OR TorchLAB v5 Triple E/Scout Head and LF E Series Z68 Style Tritium Slotted Defender Tailcap.
7) RPM Brass body, tailcap and SF head with LF brass bezel.


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## [email protected]

Just released the brand new E Series Triple LED Head Units.
Took quite a while to get it made and I am happy to finally be able to bring it out to you guys.

Two styles were made, the first follows the Classic Surefire Early L1 "Trumpet" Style.
(A limited version is also available with Tritium Slots built-in, I only made 40 pcs of the Tritium Slotted L1 Housings in each colour so grab them if you want them.)
The other version is a Smoothie Head with design elements from the Surefire E2T Tactician.
Both are made in the "Shelf" design for optimal heat dissipation.
Optics are the usual Carclo 10507 Triple Optics with the ability to install Glow Gaskets.


Hope you guys like them.

Cheers.


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## euroken

Still churning out amazing products Mark!

Hope to get my hands on some of these soon! Cheers!


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## mk2rocco

@[email protected] 

I don't see them on the site yet. I'll definitely be picking one up to Lego with my LF bodies.


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## thermal guy

There on there. On e series lamp modules.


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## yazkaz

mk2rocco said:


> @[email protected]
> 
> I don't see them on the site yet. I'll definitely be picking one up to Lego with my LF bodies.


Mark has had the head modules ready a while ago, but delayed listing them on his Store until only recently.

I had the opportunity to procure one before the actual listing commenced. Overall it's very nicely built, very powerful and the large "hotspot" is great for most general (everyday) uses. It does lose some throw though so do be reminded beforehand.

Have tested this tri-LED module in an open park at night, along with another LF standard reflectored module. The latter throws a bit more but that throw output is of negligible usage under such test condition. However, such added throw will serve more purpose for illuminating narrower roads, back alleys etc.


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## muichimon

Please also make custom parts for elzetta.


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## yazkaz

@muichimon
In order for LF to be able to produce Elzetta parts, various conditions need to be met, such as
a. Access to Elzetta components for study and R&D
b. Long-term sustainability

If none of these conditions apply then unfortunately NO.


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## scalpel_ninja

I wonder if making aftermarket ZFL heads for Elzetta would actually be a good idea? R&D should be straightforward. Of course direct clones wouldn’t be good, but a simple head that can thread on to the Elzetta bodies with matched anodizing would nicely fill a gap for a discontinued part that is becoming more difficult to buy. Since Elzetta is selling the bodies on their own, the availability of ZFL heads would perhaps support the sales of the bodies and Malkoff drop ins.

@[email protected]


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## TMedina

The missing piece, as you noted, are the old Malkoff-compatible heads, as the rest of the flashlight Elzetta still makes.

Now, whether there would be enough interest to support launching a product line of replacement heads, I don't know.


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## scalpel_ninja

I would only foresee the competition being Malkoff. However I like the option of having the hi/lo in the tail as an alternative to the hi/lo in the head from Malkoff.

I’m no professional analyst, but perhaps a single run of a few hundred heads might be feasible and profitable for Lumens Factory. They wouldn’t even need to offer variants at this point. A run of the mill non-crenellated head might be successful. If it is, then offer the other variants.


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## [email protected]

muichimon said:


> Please also make custom parts for elzetta.



I will look into the possibilities of making this, seems to be an interesting idea.
Thank you to everyone's suggestion and input.

Cheers. 

Mark


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## fulee9999

I think there would a fairly large interest for the ZFL heads that Elzetta used to make. That way you could buy an Elzetta body and tailcap, a LumensFactory "ZFL" style head, and put in a Malkoff M61 module. Or maybe even a LumensFactory tailcap as well, it's basically the same C type tail as the SureFire 6P or Malkoff has, only longer.

But please make the low profile ZFL head ( pictured below ) as well, some of us don't care for the spiky heads.


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## scalpel_ninja

[email protected] said:


> I will look into the possibilities of making this, seems to be an interesting idea.
> Thank you to everyone's suggestion and input.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Mark


Yes!!! Pleeeeeaaaase make the low profile heads as shown by @fulee9999


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## Bimmerboy

Cheers to Mark for everything he's done over the years, and continues to do. I've only bought a couple items years ago, but hope to buy some more in the near future.


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## yazkaz

[email protected] said:


> I will look into the possibilities of making this, seems to be an interesting idea.
> Thank you to everyone's suggestion and input.


Mark, as much as you'd like to respect and fulfill other members' wishes and product requests, do remember that you already have a vast product portfolio to manage, and expanding it further could, and would, break your upper threshold at some point. I'd say, one step at a time, and should you develop parts for another light host system, make sure you get enough time and sample parts for studying and R&D. And also do take care of your health too!


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## yazkaz

Bimmerboy said:


> Cheers to Mark for everything he's done over the years, and continues to do. I've only bought a couple items years ago, but hope to buy some more in the near future.


Great to "see" you again here! Any new Bimmer stuff you've acquired lately? Sadly its recent (vehicular) designs have gone out of line (G87 M2 included, unfortunately).

But rest assured LF's product QC is still there and largely unaffected, so you can continue to purchase from them with confidence.


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## bykfixer

Elzetta couldn't hardly give them away back in their time. Like so many things in life, now that you can't get one you want it. But then again I didn't think the smart phone would catch on so there is that.


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## fulee9999

bykfixer said:


> Elzetta couldn't hardly give them away back in their time. Like so many things in life, now that you can't get one you want it. But then again I didn't think the smart phone would catch on so there is that.



I don't really understand why's that... Legoable parts usually help any product to thrive, not just flashlights. It gives every manufacturer the ability to create their own rendition of some component, it enables competition among manufacturers, and that helps buyers of the product to be able to pick and choose, while the prices because of the competing companies keeps the prices at a sane level.
To be honest, I'm not sure SureFire would be anywhere near their current status if their light parts wouldn't be interchangeable with each other.


----------



## bykfixer

Lego is a good thing, sure. But back when Elzetta was producing the ZFL nobody really liked them. 

Once upon a time SureFire engineer PK was all about the lego aspect. But these days, if current SureFire products can lego it's the same as Ford using the same chassis for a Focus and Escape, it's simply more for a cost of production reduction than an interchangeable benefit.


----------



## euroken

@[email protected] 

Hey Mark, sent you a PM.

Any updates on Gen 2 E1/E2 bodies?

Cheers!


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## QMT93

Can I use unprotected flat top 18650 in the E2P Pineapple body?


----------



## yazkaz

QMT93 said:


> Can I use unprotected flat top 18650 in the E2P Pineapple body?


I don't have experience with the 18650 E2Pine body, but I do have experience with the earlier batch E2 18650 body, which actually REQUIRES to use unprotected 18650 cells only due to the increased height of the protected variety (usually +2-3mm beyond specs) which will affect fitment of all head upgrades. Failure to observe this will cause irreversible damage to just any head module upgrade (especially to the driver board), including those with +ve springs installed.


----------



## QMT93

That's what I read as well. Thanks!


----------



## QMT93

Hi @[email protected] ,
Do you plan on making P and/or E bodies to use with protected cells?


----------



## [email protected]

QMT93 said:


> Hi @[email protected] ,
> Do you plan on making P and/or E bodies to use with protected cells?


Our P Compatible bodies has always been able to use protected cells.

As for the E bodies, I am afraid not because it is impossible to compensate for all the different lengths and diameters of all the different brands and generations.
I have a dozen Protected 18650 on my desk and they all have different lengths and diameters.
The E Bodies has one end closed so the length of the battery matters.

Too bad those battery makers don't care about specs. the "18" and "650" used to mean something at one point, not so much nowadays.

Cheers.

Mark


----------



## QMT93

Thanks, Mark! That makes sense.


----------



## pnwoutdoors

[email protected] said:


> Too bad those battery makers don't care about specs. the "18" and "650" used to mean something at one point, not so much nowadays.



Definitely is too bad. A spec should be just that, and not subject to whim.

Of course, we're still in the early stages of this rechargeable battery "revolution." They're still trying to figure everything out. 

Thank you for keeping up with it all, as a flashlight maker, as best you can.


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## troutpool

Just got another little package in the mail today from Mark. His products are always such a pleasure! Thanks so much, Mark.


----------

