# Headlamp for trekking in cold weather



## Paul (Dec 5, 2008)

I'm looking for a new headlamp to buy. Mainly I'm going to use it for trekking and biking, both in potential quite cold weather. In other words, an external battery case is very preferable. Also, since I'd like to use it for biking, it should be possible to detach the light from the headband so I can strap it onto my helmet. Basically I've decided to prioritize the following:

- Battery capacity
- Weight
- The gadget-freak in me also wants high power... 

Unfortunately price probably also will be a factor, but I'll take that when I know what's out there.

At the moment I'm looking a bit on the PT Apex Extreme. I find it a very nice light, but the weight is a downside of it (not that it's extremly heavy, but it's heavier than other lights).
I'm also very impressed both the weight, capacity and power of the Zebralights (especially the new H60), but I'm a bit concerned about how the battery will perform in cold weather. Any thoughts on this?

Also, I'm very open for other suggestions so if you know other headlamps that might be suitable I'd be very thankful to get some ideas!


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## Shorty66 (Dec 5, 2008)

I think with the 18650 of the h60 you will be ok till round about -10°C. Perheaps less if riding a bike. The special housing with cooling rips is nor really intended to be used in could wether i believe.
Though it should be quit easy to make an external battery compartent for the h60 and wire it to the connection points in the housing.

An out of the box solution would be the MyoBelt XP or one of those ultra expensive caving light: Stenlight, Scurion...


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## Paul (Dec 5, 2008)

Shorty66 said:


> Though it should be quit easy to make an external battery compartent for the h60 and wire it to the connection points in the housing.


That's an very interesting thought. It would make the H60 a very flexible light. I'm not very experienced with doing such things, but I'm up for a try. The main concern that I see is how to get the cable to the inside of the light and screw it together. Thoughts?


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## Shorty66 (Dec 5, 2008)

i would drill trough the bottom and seal it with epoxy... insedie the light just wire it to the contacts. perhaps you can use an old 18650 light or something cheap from dealextreme as batterypack...


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## Paul (Dec 5, 2008)

That would most certainly be the easiest. If Zebralight would sell me a extra bottom screw it would work out very well. I'm thinking that a possibility is to make a "dummy battery" (some cylinder with the same size as the battery) and attach the wires to that.


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## Shorty66 (Dec 5, 2008)

yeah, dummy battery sounds perfekt. that way you dont have to screw around with the contacts. An extra bottom cap also sounds good. Perhaps ill do that mod too... well first ill test the light performance... i never had any problems with my tikka xp at -20°C even though it used normal alkalines...


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## saabgoblin (Dec 5, 2008)

The new Eos bike light would fit the3 bill pretty nicely as long as you are buying a current 50 lumen model. The Eos may not be nearly as bright as the Apex but it can be removed from the strap and clamped on handlebars and or your helmet and it can run on lithium's for cold weather use. Take a look at Bright Guy as a supplier because from what I have seen, they carry all of the options available for this lights multiple configurations.


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## hopkins (Dec 5, 2008)

keeping the batteries warm inside a coat pocket or in an insulated pouch on the bike works. Recently another cpf cold weather bike rider suggested placing the battery pack inside a homemade (and lightweight) pouch consisting of several
layers of alternating spaceblanket material and plastic baggies. like how space suits are constructed. Folded shut to keep any cold wind out it seems like a winning idea.


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## huskyrunnr (Dec 5, 2008)

A topic near and dear to my heart...

Here is what I'm currently using. It blows away my old 60 lm Apex. I use it for running sled dogs at night. It is a $25 136 lm River Rock from Target, gutted of the battery holder and the switch, and better heatsinked. Too many power connectors and cord from Radio Shaft, forget that and get a two prong weatherproof SAE connector from the auto parts store, $3. Tie knots in the wires for strain relief in/out of the headlamp, in/out of the battery box. Seal holes and the headlamp everywhere with RTV Silicone, also from the auto parts store. Battery box consists of a Pelican 1010 dry box from REI, $14. Two 2XC battery holders wired in series, Radio Shack, $4. A marine grade pushbutton switch from Home Depot, $4. The battery box goes in an inside pocket of the parka and and rests upon the thigh. You slap the box from the outside to turn it on/off. This is pretty standard for mushing headlamps. Check out tensquared racing for a similar setup they sell that modifies the Apex to this configuration. Very nice way to go in extreme cold.


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## NoFair (Dec 6, 2008)

If you get an Apex you can make an external battery carrier like in the above post or use something like this with 18650s:






I still use the 4AA pack and 2 cr123 pack when I want something lighter. I use RC connectors.

An older Apex is easily modified with a Seoul led for something like 100-150 lumens.

I still think the Apex extreme is a good option, but I don't think the 130 lumen version is out yet.

Sverre


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## huskyrunnr (Dec 6, 2008)

NoFair said:


> An older Apex is easily modified with a Seoul led for something like 100-150 lumens.
> 
> I still think the Apex extreme is a good option, but I don't think the 130 lumen version is out yet.
> 
> Sverre



I think the Apex would be a better lamp to have set up with an external pack. The River Rock is far more flimsy and I worry the plastic will not hold up to extended cold.

I have seen the threads on the Apex mod to Seoul emitter. I need to perform that on mine. What I did was get something together in one day, with local sources. Not the best course of action.


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## NoFair (Dec 6, 2008)

huskyrunnr said:


> I think the Apex would be a better lamp to have set up with an external pack. The River Rock is far more flimsy and I worry the plastic will not hold up to extended cold.
> 
> I have seen the threads on the Apex mod to Seoul emitter. I need to perform that on mine. What I did was get something together in one day, with local sources. Not the best course of action.


 
My pack is also scrounged up from things I had lying around: 2 C-cell holders (sawed in 2), some flexible wire from an outdoor cable, some screws and a couple of connectors. Didn't actually buy anything

Your pack would work great with an Apex so if you use the same connectors you should be golden

Sverre

PS! I think Pelican has a waterproof 4 D-cell holder for one of their headlamps that can be bought seperately.. 

http://www.batterystation.com/headsup2660.htm


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## huskyrunnr (Dec 6, 2008)

Wow, if I'm reading that correctly, the 4XD holder is $8! Great tip, thanks Sverre! That would be a lot of Ah. I suspect/hope I can get the pushbutton switch to nest between the cells inside the holder. This is a feature I would not want to give up. No need to remove gloves to switch the power.


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## hopkins (Dec 6, 2008)

Very nice invention huskyrunner! slapswitch.
Bit envious of you, as here in san jose the drought continues. Walking at night
over dry brittle grass.


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## NoFair (Dec 6, 2008)

huskyrunnr said:


> Wow, if I'm reading that correctly, the 4XD holder is $8! Great tip, thanks Sverre! That would be a lot of Ah. I suspect/hope I can get the pushbutton switch to nest between the cells inside the holder. This is a feature I would not want to give up. No need to remove gloves to switch the power.


 
I read it the same way so it is probably worth a try. You could put a waterproof switch on the cable as well, might be easier with gloves/mittens.

I have free 18650s so I don't use D-cells (have those free as well..) because they are a bit on the heavy side..

Sverre


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## huskyrunnr (Dec 6, 2008)

hopkins, it is a cool invention but not mine. It is standard mushing gear because under some conditions it would be injurious to remove your huge mittens or parka to futz with the lamp. You know, typically -20*F and you're starting out on the sled with the dogs going 20 mph. John Balzar writes about this piece of equipment in _Yukon Alone_.

I'm in the PNW and no white stuff here yet. We're still running on wheels.


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## Paul (Dec 6, 2008)

Lots of nice feedback here, thanks a lot! 
Just two questions about the PT Apex Extreme that came to my attention:
- Does anyone know what the flood angle is on spot and wide setting?
- What does PT mean when they say that the burn time is 30 hours regulated and 200 hours total?


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## Woods Walker (Dec 7, 2008)

huskyrunnr said:


> I think the Apex would be a better lamp to have set up with an external pack. The River Rock is far more flimsy and I worry the plastic will not hold up to extended cold.


 
Often I put the battery pack on the standard Apex under my hat and it seems to keep it warmer however not tried much below say -15f. I think you get some colder weather and running the hounds puts you more exposed than myself using a pulk. How is that Zebralight working out? Still thinking about it however want an AA without the twisty.


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## huskyrunnr (Dec 7, 2008)

Hi Woods, the Zebra is a great task light. I gave mine to my son for his scout trips. For running the dogs, I want something bright with throw, with at least 8 hrs. runtime. The Apex is good, the RR great. The external pack is the real kicker. I'd hate to hump around 4C's on my head.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 7, 2008)

Yea i was thinking more about the 3-4 lumen low when inside the tipi feeding the wood stove. Don't want something heavy on my head when on the sleeping pad playing around with the stove. Glad to see you on CPF. Yea for the dogs throw is a good idea. Have you checked out the newer Apex. If it uses the same Rebel LED as the newer EOS it would be a winner with 130 lumens and from the LED has a warmer tint than the older one or most Crees for that matter. Might be better for running the dogs in the snow.


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## huskyrunnr (Dec 8, 2008)

Well, the folks here at CPF are so creative. I'd really like to try to mod my old Apex w/ the Seoul emitter. The steps are outlined so well here I think I can pull it off. Beats buying a new Apex.

I'll have my son along w/ me in the tipi most of the time, so he'll be in charge of the low-light situations!

But as Sverre and I mentioned, hard to beat the Apex w/ an external pack for running/riding and for tasklight. I don't want to shine 136 lm into the dogs' eyes while I'm handling them.


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## verbage (Dec 8, 2008)

Paul said:


> Lots of nice feedback here, thanks a lot!
> Just two questions about the PT Apex Extreme that came to my attention:
> - Does anyone know what the flood angle is on spot and wide setting?
> - What does PT mean when they say that the burn time is 30 hours regulated and 200 hours total?



The PT website is not very helpful though it sounds like they have added some updates recently. I got an Apex Extreme in May, and used it pretty extensively for a few weeks this past summer. Regarding a regulated burn time of 30 hours, for certain, that can't be on the highest setting. I haven't gotten around to measuring the actual current draw on the various brightness settings (somebody here must have though...), but with eight freshly recharged 2300 mAh NiMHs, it might get ~5-6 hours of regulated runtime at the highest setting. This is my best guess based on the fact that it did go out of regulation on me once on a particularly long work day, but I have not actually measured it systematically. Whatever the exact value, it is certainly not 30 hours.

After seeing the huge difference a Seoul P4 mod can make for the light, I ordered myself a few of these LEDs a while back, and now I just need to find the time to make the mod.


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## brossa (Dec 13, 2008)

I was thinking of getting a new 130 lumen PT Apex and modifying it with an external 8-AA pack, like the PT Apex Extreme. I'm assuming that the 8 AAs are set up as two blocks in parallel, each block consisting of 4 AAs in series. Does that sound right? I thought that I might rig up the external pack with an internal switch, such that I could run the light off of four cells or all eight. Part of my reason for doing this is that all of my other electronics work on AAs; if I'm going to carry extras anyway, why not have them be useable in the light and vice versa? 

Is there any reason that I couldn't do this with a regular PT Apex? I'd prefer to modify the regular Apex to take either the back-of-the-head 4AAs or an external 8AA rather than go with the Apex Extreme and not have the back-of-the-head option for warmer weather.


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## Paul (Dec 14, 2008)

brossa said:


> I was thinking of getting a new 130 lumen PT Apex and modifying it with an external 8-AA pack, like the PT Apex Extreme. I'm assuming that the 8 AAs are set up as two blocks in parallel, each block consisting of 4 AAs in series. Does that sound right?


I don't have much experience with electronics, but that does indeed sound right. Since the head of the PT Apex Extreme is most probably the same as on the PT Apex it sounds rather silly to double the voltage to it by putting all the batteries in series.

I like your idea btw, sounds very handy.


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## hoosche (Dec 7, 2011)

huskyrunnr said:


> A topic near and dear to my heart...
> 
> Here is what I'm currently using. It blows away my old 60 lm Apex. I use it for running sled dogs at night. It is a $25 136 lm River Rock from Target, gutted of the battery holder and the switch, and better heatsinked. Too many power connectors and cord from Radio Shaft, forget that and get a two prong weatherproof SAE connector from the auto parts store, $3. Tie knots in the wires for strain relief in/out of the headlamp, in/out of the battery box. Seal holes and the headlamp everywhere with RTV Silicone, also from the auto parts store. Battery box consists of a Pelican 1010 dry box from REI, $14. Two 2XC battery holders wired in series, Radio Shack, $4. A marine grade pushbutton switch from Home Depot, $4. The battery box goes in an inside pocket of the parka and and rests upon the thigh. You slap the box from the outside to turn it on/off. This is pretty standard for mushing headlamps. Check out tensquared racing for a similar setup they sell that modifies the Apex to this configuration. Very nice way to go in extreme cold.



Newbie here. Apologies in advance if I'm asking about something that's already been covered elsewhere in this forum. I did spend a great deal of time trying to search for the info first before making this post. If this has been covered somewhere else, please simply direct me to that thread.

I'm looking to mod my headlamp similar to what huskyrunnr did here. I have a Black Diamond Zenix, and although I know there are better headlamps out there, I like everything about it except for it's poor battery life. I can't believe how fast this thing chews through batteries (takes 2 AA's). I especially want it to last longer in the cold. Last year I used it on a winter camping trip in the Boundary Waters (MN) and I ran out of batteries (even though I brought many extras) and was left without light while snowshoeing 7 miles back to the vehicles in -30 degree (fahrenheit) temps. That's not an experience I wish to repeat - the snowshoeing/camping, yes; doing it without light, no. I even tried lithiums. 

I'd like to make a remote battery pack that I can keep under my garments and close to my body (read warm). I don't need the slap switch. I can continue to use the stock switch on the housing. In addition, if I'm going to make a remote battery pack I thought I'd make one that holds more batteries and offers a longer run-time than the stock 2 AA's. Only thing is, I know nothing about electricty/electronics/batteries. 

I did some reading about having batteries in a series vs. in parallel, but I'm not comfortable I know how to apply what I read. I'm assuming I want to keep the voltage the same, but increase the ampere-hours. Going from a AA to a C means you're only increasing your ampere-hours, correct? What about adding more than two batteries? Should I be connecting them in parallel? Obviously weight is a factor when you start talking about going from AA's to C's or D's, but if I'm not concerned about the additional weight, what would be the best setup to get the longest run-time out of my headlamp? What are the limitations (i.e. would I want to consider connecting 8 batteries rather than 4)?

Thanks, folks.


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