# Eagletac G25C2 (XM-L, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEAMSHOTS+



## selfbuilt (Jul 27, 2012)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *
_
*UPDATE March 27, 2013:* This review has been superceded by a new review of the G25C2 Mark II - now equipped with the XM-L2 emitter. Please see that review for more details on the latest model G25C2._











The G25C2 is a new, top-of-the-line, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR flashlight from Eagletac. I've received enough requests to review this light that I have finally decided to purchase one. In this review, I will be examining the Neutral White XM-L version 

Note the Eagletac specs on the website are not consistent as to the output bin on this version (in some places the Neutral White version is listed as a T5, in others a T6). I suspect it is properly a T5.

*Manufacturer Specs (consolidated from multiple pages on the Eagletac website):*


LED: Cree XM-L (Cool White U2 or Neutral White T5 available)
OTF Lumens for Cree XM-L U2 Cool White: 640/267/49/2 lumens
OTF Lumens for Cree XM-L T5 Neutral White: 551/229/43/2 lumens
Runtime: 1.1/3.5/20/200 hors
Note: Runtime measurement is taken with energy saving feature (on by default) and with two CR123A. G25C2 reduces output by 20% after 200 seconds at turbo mode. User can disable or enable this energy saving feature.
Powered by 2xCR123A, 2xRCR123A, or 1x18650 li-ion. 
With 3 cell body extender: 3xCR123A, or 3xRCR123A li-ion
With 4 cell body extender: 4xCR123A, or 2x18650 li-ion4 
With 3x18650 extender: 3x18650 li-ion
Voltage range: 2.7V - 12.6V
Beam Intensity (U2 version): 15,100 lux
Beam Distance (U2 version): 268 yards
Two groups of basic output modes, Tactical (100% / 10% / Strobe / Strobe) and Regular (100% / 35% / 6% / 0.3%) – Tactical is factory default, but user selectable
Brightness level selected by loosening/tightening head/bezel
Four levels brightness and five hidden auxillary modes (Disorienting Strobe, Hi-Flash, SOS, Beacon, Lo-Flash) 
Titanium coated stainless steel bezel (removable)
SCHOTT waterwhite glass lens w/ harden treatment, anti-reflective (AR) coating on both sides
HAIII hard anodization aerospace aluminum (black)
Titanium coated Stainless steel pocket clip
Very light orange peel aluminum reflector
IPX-8 waterproof
Heavy Duty Nylon Holster w/ self-retention device and flip
Mil-Spec Paracord Lanyard w/ quick attachment clip
Included Accessories: Spare O-rings, GITD (Glow in the dark) switch boot , User manual, Tail-stand rubber boot, Soft cigar holding grip, Cigar grip cover ring, Lanyard ring attachment ring
Optional kit: Durable aluminum flip-over filter assembly, Diffuser, yellow, red, blue, and green optical grade anti-reflective coated add-on lens, 3 cells extension body tube for three CR123A/RCR123A, 4 cells extension body tube for four CR123A or two 18650 li-ion
Dimensions: Head Diameter 1.55 inches (39.5 mm), Body Diameter 1.0 inches (25 mm), Length: 5.9 inches (150 mm), Weight excluding battery: 4.8 ounces (138 grams)
MSRP: ~$110 (~$150 with accessory kit)






I bought the light with the full accessory kit. As you can see, the light came with a soft rubber grip ring and metal pocket clip installed (I installed the rubber tailstanding cap). Also included was a belt holster with metal button clasp, wrist lanyard, extra o-rings, GITD switch boot cover, cigar grip cover ring, lanyard attachment ring, manual, and warranty card. 

As part of the accessory kit, I got the aluminum flip-top screw-on bezel with diffuser, yellow, red, blue, and green coated lenses, 3 cell extension body tube, 4 cell extension body tube, and internal plastic battery sleeves to prevent rattle.









From left to right: AW Protected 18650; Eagletac G25C2, T20C2-II; Foursevens X7; Klarus XT-11; Thrunite TN11; Lumintop TD-15X.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Eagletac G25C2* (stock): Weight 144.3g, Length: 150.6mm, Width (bezel): 39.6mm
*Eagletac G25C2* (with diffuser/tailstand cap): Weight 160.2g, Length: 181mm, Width (widest, at bezel diffuser hinge): 46.2mm
*Eagletac D25LC2*: Weight: 50.0g, Length: 116.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.5mm
*Eagletac T20C2-II*: Weight 114.7g, Length 145.7mm, Width (bezel): 33.5mm
*Foursevens X7*: Weight 146.9g, Length: 151.5mm, Width (bezel): 38.7mm
*Lumintop TD-15X*: Weight 150.3g, Length 147.3mm, Width (bezel): 37.8mm
*Thrunite TN11*: Weight: 176.8g, Length: 154.0mm, Width (bezel): 41.0mm


















The G25C2 build appears to be an update from the earlier T20C2-II, with a larger head and revised styling. Anodizing remains a glossy black (HA = type III). All labels are bright and clear (sharp against the black background). 

Knurling is present in several bands over body/tail/head, and is of reasonable aggressiveness. I would say grip has definitely increased from the earlier model Eagletac T-series lights. 

Screw threading is traditional-cut (and fairly fine) in the tail region, anodized for lock-out. Screw threads are square-cut (and thick) in the head region. See the pics above and UI discussion below for more details on the contact surfaces. You will need to use cells that have at least some sort of raised protrusion on the positive contact surface (i.e., a small or large button top).

The bundled cigar grip ring is made of rubber, with an extra thin rubber band cover included (in case you want to remove the ring but keep the area covered).

The titanium-coated stainless steel pocket clip is held in place by a metal screw cover. The clip is removable, and the cover hides the attachment point.

With the tailstanding rubber cover installed (similar to the T20C2-II), the light can tailstand. Switch is a forward clicky switch with traditional feel.

There is also a two-piece plastic lanyard attachment ring bundled with the light (for use at the tailcap instead of the tailstanding cover). 









_Note: this review is of the Neutral White XM-L option._

Reflector is nearly smooth - I would consider it a very, very light orange-peel (VLOP) reflector. 

One of the key features of the optional accessory kit is the replacement bezel with flip-top diffuser/filter cover.






The stock head has a scalloped titanium-coated stainless steel bezel ring, replaceable with the screw-on diffuser/filter assembly. 




























The flip-top diffuser is very high quality, made of aluminum. :thumbsup: Hinge mechanism is good, and the whole unit has a solid feel. There is a metal retaining ring holding the glass lens in place (swappable between the frosted diffuser shown above and four colored filters). The colored filters are all high quality – thick, with mirrored finish and AR coatings (i.e., these are actual proper optical grade filters, not just colored pieces of plastic). :twothumbs

Here is how the head compares to the T20C2-II, with and without diffuser covers (plastic screw on diffuser for the T20C2-II):










*User Interface*

Turn the light on/off by the tailcap forward clicky switch (press for momentary, click for locked-on).

There are four output levels controlled by simply loosening or tightening the head (i.e., the four levels are accessed in sequence from head fully tight). There are two possible groups of output modes available - Tactical (100% > 10% > Strobe > Strobe, in sequence) and Regular (100% > 35% > 6% > 0.3%, in sequence). Tactical is the factory default, but you can switch between the two groups by loosening the head to the second level and rapidly clicking the switch off/on 20 times in a row.

Note that unlike the Foursevens X7 (which also uses a four-level control in the head), the physical turning distance between the levels is fairly small on the G25C2 (and not consistent). As soon as you loosen past fully tight, you drop down to the second level. You drop down again to the third level after a ~90 degree angle turn, and similarly again for the fourth level after another ~90. This means that after ~180 degree turn from tight, the light is in the lowest mode. It remains in this mode until you complete almost a full turn from fully tight (at which point the light shuts off).

It is important that you keep all the contact surfaces in the head and the top of the battery tube clean. Eagletac recommends regular use of red Deoxit contact cleaner, and limiting silicone lube to the o-rings only (i.e., not to the threads). I can confirm that mode switching can become erratic if the threads dirty-up (especially for moving in/out of the highest levels, and accessing the auxiliary modes).

To access the hidden auxiliary modes, do a quick loosen-tighten twist of the head (from first level tight to third or fourth level and back again). Repeat this twist to advance through the modes. Mode sequence is: Disorientating Strobe > Hi-Flash > SOS > Beacon > Lo-Flash, in repeating sequence. Turn off the light or loosen the head to quit the hidden modes. I will describe these modes in more detail below.

There is an "energy saving feature" (on by default) when the light reduces output by 20% after 200 seconds in Turbo. To toggle this feature off/on, loosen the head to the fourth level and the click the light off/on 20 times rapidly at the switch.

There is also a momentary tailcap strobe setting (off by default). To toggle this feature, tighten the head fully and click the light off/on 20 times rapidly at the switch.

To help show all of this better, please see my video overview: 



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

*PWM/Strobe*

There is no sign of PWM that I can see, at any output level – I presume the lights are current-controlled.  

Strobe mode:





The auxiliary strobe mode is an alternating or "oscillating" strobe, switching between 6.3Hz and 15.2Hz roughly every 2 secs. Definitely disorienting. 

Hi-Flash mode:






Hi-Flash is basically a full power slow strobe/beacon mode. Frequency was a reasonable 1.6 Hz in my testing. Note that the deflection spikes you see above are just the on and off signals of the pulse (i.e., it spends roughly half the time on, half the time off, with each pulse).

SOS mode:





SOS mode is relatively slow, but consistent.

Beacon mode:

Beacon is a very quick full output flash, approximately once every ~21 secs (i.e., a very slow beacon)

Lo-Flash:

Lo-Flash is a lower output, slower frequency strobe/beacon than Hi-Flash. I detected 10 flashes in a ~21 sec period (i.e. just under 0.5 Hz).

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences (i.e., my G25C2 Neutral White won't look any different from the others, but it is a lot warmer in real life). 

Note that the flip-top diffuser cover assembly is installed for all G25C2 shots.





























































Use of the screw-on flip-top diffuser narrows the spillbeam somewhat, compared to the lower profile crenelated bezel ring. Also, you can slightly see the impact of the hinge on the periphery, when the diffuser is flipped up. 

Here are some beamshots with the diffuser in place:


















As useful as the above shots are, I know people like to have a better idea of the beam angle with the diffuser. So for that, I have turned to my famed "integrating carpet." 










*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables.
















Given the overall output of my G25C2, I am presuming the Neutral White is a T5 output bin. Eagletac reports 640 ANSI FL-1 lumens for the Cool White U2 version, and 551 lumens for the Neutral White T5. That's not too far off in my estimation of my sample but I am not sure if the Eagletac specs are based on actual IS measurements, or simply estimated OTF lumens. I notice for example that they also provide higher theoretical max "emitter lumens", and the "ANSI FL-1" numbers are all exactly 17% less. 

Note that the Eagletac center beam distance and intensity measures do seem dairly accurate, given theirs are based on a U2 bin. Note also that my standard lux meter is known to under-report compared to most others. 

FYI, I have just received my NIST-certified, calibrated Extech lightmeter, and it reports 14,900 [email protected] (converted back from 10m) for my G25C2 Neutral White. I would therefore expect the U2 to throw even better. I will be updating all my tables above shortly, once I get around to re-testing all the lights with the new meter. :sweat:

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*




















Output/runtime performance was good for my G25C2 Neutral white sample, considering it appears to be a T5 output bin. Output/runtime performance was typically quite similar to some of my early XM-L Cool white lights (presumed T6 output bin, but some many be U2s).

I left the default "energy saving" feature turned on for the Turbo mode, and the light stepped down by ~100 estimated lumens after 3 mins runtime (i.e., a ~20% drop, as claimed)

Note that Eagletac OTF runtimes are based CR123A (in the U2 version), but my results suggest they are something of an underestimate (at least for the Neutral T5)

_UPDATE AUGUST 4, 2012: Here is what the Turbo mode runtime looks like without the "energy saving" feature:_






*Potential Issues*

Flat-top cells may not work in the light, due to the physical switching mechanism in the head. I recommend you stick with button-top cells (small and large button top both worked fine in my testing).

There have been reports of very long cells not making proper contact for the Turbo mode (i.e., head won't fully tighten down). I also found one of my older Eagletac 2400mAh cells seemed slightly dented around the button top area, after a period of use in this light.

You need to keep all contact surfaces in the head scrupulously clean, or you may experience mode switching problems (especially between first and second levels, also required for auxiliary modes). The limited range between first/second modes makes switching very susceptible to any contact surface issues.

Unlike the T20C2-II series, the LED assembly/reflector/pill is not a user-replaceable module. This means you will not be able to update your G25C2 with new modules in the future. But it may mean better heat transfer in the G25C2.

The light is bit longer than most 1x18650 lights, especially with the flip-top diffuser installed.

_UPDATE October 24, 2012:_ The threaded plastic ring that covers the clip attachment point can loosen up over time (and successive battery changes). If it loosens enough, it may block the tailcap from screwing down all the way. Due to anodized threads, this will prevent activation. If you experience this issue, check to make sure the clip cover ring is fully screwed down.

*Preliminary Observations*

The G25C2 is the much-anticipated update to the high-end of Eagletac's offerings. The popular T20C2-II has been around for awhile, and features a range of customizable options, with a lot of bundled extras. But it does have a few limitations – most notably a limited number of modes, some quirks in the interface, and the need to switch between a separate plastic screw-on diffuser or bezel ring. 

Personally, I like a light with a good diffuser option. I use diffused lights a lot - especially for walking the dog at night. With a traditional beam, I tend to find myself distracted and tracking the hotspot (a bit too much of the "follow-the-bouncing-ball" effect ). With a good diffuser, I can pay proper attention to what my dog is doing, and what is in the local environment. But when you hear a sudden sound in the bushes or off in the distance, the screwed-on diffuser cover is a handicap to seeing what is going on. As such, while I may like a good diffuser, I also like having the option of decent throw. 

The G25C2 - with the optional aluminum flip-top diffuser bezel from the kit - thus seems to offer the best of both worlds. You get greater output and throw than the earlier T20C2-II (thanks in part to the larger head on the G25C2), and you have the option to switch between throw and flood with the flick of a finger. 

In my handling, I would say the flip-top diffuser is the most solid and professional looking diffuser cover I've seen to date. :thumbsup: With the matching anodized aluminum bezel, it looks like it belong on the light. The mechanism works well with appropriate stiffness (i.e. the cover stays open or closed as you set it). The ability to switch in other optical colored filters is a nice touch too. But note that the overall spillbeam width is a slightly narrower with the unit in position on the bezel.

IMO, the G25C2 interface is an improvement over the T20C2-II as well. You can configure it (using the Regular group mode) to have all four constant outputs available by a simple loosening of the head. :thumbsup: This is similar to the Foursevens G5/X7, although the precise ranges of motion are a little different. I think this sort of regular interface is simpler and more intuitive for most to remember. The "hidden" blinky modes are all still there if you want them (and Eagletac provides more options than most in this regard). In fact, the interface is more configurable than most lights, with the ability to turn on/off features like the automatic step-down from Turbo, or access to Strobe from off, etc. 

Performance-wise, output/runtime efficiency is very good, as you would expect for a current-controlled light. Note that my sample is the lower T5 output bin Neutral White version (also available in Cool White U2 bin version). For many here, the slight drop in max output is a small price to pay for the more pleasing neutral tint outdoors – but the cool white U2-bin option is there for those who want maximum output. 

I also like the build updates – it's true the G25C2 is a larger light than the T20C2-II, but it offers greater throw and output in stock form. Knurling is better on the G25C2, and the range of carry options is appreciated. That said, the plastic lanyard ring can be a bit fussy, and the light is a bit of a tight fit in the included belt pouch with the tailstanding cover on. But these are minor quibbles - most lights don't give you as many options to complain about. :laughing: 

This is one light where you will want to stay on top of your regular care and maintenance schedule. The number of distinct contact surfaces in the head (required for proper mode switching or program setting) means the light is particularly sensitive to anything that disturbs contact (i.e., do not lube the screw threads in the head – only the o-ring). Also, keep in mind that the G25C2 doesn't use user-upgradeable modules like the T20C2-II does.

At the end of the day, the G25C2 is useful upgrade to me, given my personal preferences in a general-purpose light. Please check out all the detailed specs and performance to see if it is a match for your needs. :wave:

_Edit: I don't have any knowledge of Eagletac's plans for the T20C2-II. That series may continue for some time. It is very modular and designed to be easily upgradeable._

_
*UPDATE March 27, 2013:* This review has been superceded by a new review of the G25C2 Mark II - now equipped with the XM-L2 emitter. Please see that review for more details on the latest model G25C2._
----

G25C2 was purchased from a local dealer for this review.


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## shelm (Jul 27, 2012)

Too much Eagletac going on on CPF in 2012!!! 

Thanks for the review!


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## kj2 (Jul 27, 2012)

It's a nice light, to bad that the one I bought (have send it back to the dealer) had some bad places in the coating. Also, the light didn't fit in the holster when I had the kit installed or when I had the tailstanding rubber cover on. 
No square-cut at the tail-cap, don't like that also. And IMO a holster should use velcro, instead of a button.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 27, 2012)

kj2 said:


> It's a nice light, to bad that the one I bought (have send it back to the dealer) had some bad places in the coating. Also, the light didn't fit in the holster when I had the kit installed or when I had the tailstanding rubber cover on.


Sorry to hear about the anodizing, that's a bummer. 

But I'm surprised to hear your's wouldn't fit in the holster. As you can see it my video, it is a tight fit with both the kit and tailstanding rubber cover installed, but it did work on my sample (on the second clasp). But I agree, velcro would be better.


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## kj2 (Jul 27, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Sorry to hear about the anodizing, that's a bummer.
> 
> But I'm surprised to hear your's wouldn't fit in the holster. As you can see it my video, it is a tight fit with both the kit and tailstanding rubber cover installed, but it did work on my sample (on the second clasp). But I agree, velcro would be better.


Pulled as hard as I could, but it wouldn't close. Did like the beam  and the feel of the light


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## jcalvert (Jul 27, 2012)

Hello Selfbuilt,

Thank you for another comprehensive and highly informative review! :thumbsup: I have had the G25C2 for ~8 months now after an exchange, and I am very pleased that I went this route due to its functionality, versatility, and overall performance. I am particularly impressed by the diffuser/colored lens kit, it's an ingenious upgrade.

Something I would like to point out to any other G25C2 owners that may have difficulty in properly fitting the light into the holster with the filter lens kit installed, I have found, and others have confirmed, that to obtain the best fit that will allow the closure flap to snap into place without inordinate force, simply orientate the hinge of the lens kit forward toward the front or face of the holster. Further, the difference in being able to holster the light with both the lens kit and the rubber tailstanding ring and still snap the closure flap as described above, is to install the rubber ring upside down. I'm sure most will find, as I do, that installing the ring in this manner will offer an improved grip, while keeping the switch easily accessible. Then when the need arises to tailstand the light, there will be no need to search for it, it's a win-win. The same tip applies the T20C2 MKII and P20C2 MKII.

Also, it was my understanding that the G25C2 was not a replacement for the uniquely upgrade-able T20C2 MKII. Now I'm curious if the T20C2 MKII will be phased out. I hope not!


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## laur (Jul 27, 2012)

Hallelujah !! The Eagletac G25C2 (XM-L) finally has its' 15 minutes of fame!

I consider the Eagletac G25C2 (XM-L) one of the best lights ever produced in the single 18650 battery format. If you include the optional accessory kit the light just might be the most versatile also.

I have owned this light for a couple of months now and it compares favorably to any single 18650 flashlight I own (Except for the humble Tiablo A9 which beats it in throw).

I congratulate selfbuilt for his excellent and unbiased review of this under appeciated Eagletac model.

Note to selfbuit -- When you upgrade the Throw/Output Summary Chart using the new NIST-certified, calibrated Extech lightmeter please include the readings for the XML U2 LED version even if it is only calculated. This is the version I have and would like to see the output, lux and distance figures for this version of the light.

I join the chorus of many other CPFers when I say "My purchase of any new light will be take your review into the equation".

Excellent review as always -- Keep up the good work!!

laur


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## selfbuilt (Jul 27, 2012)

jcalvert said:


> I have found, and others have confirmed, that to obtain the best fit that will allow the closure flap to snap into place without inordinate force, simply orientate the hinge of the lens kit forward toward the front or face of the holster. Further, the difference in being able to holster the light with both the lens kit and the rubber tailstanding ring and still snap the closure flap as described above, is to install the rubber ring upside down.


Yes, you need to install the light with the head pointed down, and the lens filter hinge facing forward. I found this as well (as illustrated in my video). While tight, I still found it do-able with my rubber tailcap installed (the case should soften with time). But your reverse tail cover idea is an interesting one, to facilitate storage. A practical solution. 



> Also, it was my understanding that the G25C2 was not a replacement for the uniquely upgrade-able T20C2 MKII. Now I'm curious if the T20C2 MKII will be phased out. I hope not!


Sorry, I didn't mean to intimate that the T20C2 was being phased out - I have no knowledge of Eagletac's plans. It is just that I see the G25C2 as the next step in the evolution of their high-end tactical series. In fact, they refer to it as the "evolutionary" G25C2 in their promotional material. 



laur said:


> Hallelujah !! The Eagletac G25C2 (XM-L) finally has its' 15 minutes of fame!


LOL, suddenly I'm Andy Warhol here. :laughing:



> Note to selfbuit -- When you upgrade the Throw/Output Summary Chart using the new NIST-certified, calibrated Extech lightmeter please include the readings for the XML U2 LED version even if it is only calculated. This is the version I have and would like to see the output, lux and distance figures for this version of the light.


Ah, well, I don't want to get into putting estimated values into my table - I prefer to leave them as actual measures of what I have on hand. And unless Eagletac decides to send me a U2 version to compare, I can't really know.

That said, if you assume this is a T5 outut bin, than the average U2 bin shoudl be ~14% brighter (which should translate into ~14% more throw). Of course, depending on where an individual sample is in the range, a given U2 could actually be anywhere from ~8% to ~20% brighter than any given T5. So that gives you a likely range of how much more to expect with a U2 ... taking into account variability in reflector focusing, etc.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 28, 2012)

FYI, I've heard from Eagletac, and they plan to send me a Cool White U2 version to compare.

Inventory is apparently low, so it may take a few weeks. But I will update the review with beamshots, runtimes and output/throw measures for the CW when it arrives. :wave:


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## shelm (Jul 28, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Inventory is apparently low, so it may take a few weeks.



Please try to have her, too, include a XML U2 CW drop-in module for your T20C2 MkII (Yours is MkII, isnt it?) so that you could update this data too. The T-series and the G-series are 2 different series: the T-series light is smaller, compacter, cheaper, better selling and has user-replaceable LED modules *and* reflectors so i would never believe that the G25C2 is to replace the T20C2.


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## BLUE LED (Jul 29, 2012)

I was wondering if this had excellent regulation if you choose not to step down.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 29, 2012)

BLUE LED said:


> I was wondering if this had excellent regulation if you choose not to step down.


I will give it a try when I get the chance.

Sent from my handheld device


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## benhar (Aug 1, 2012)

Thanks for the review, been waiting on this one! Do you consider the G25C2 a good alternative for someone who would have otherwise bought a Klarus XT11 if it had mode memory?


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## sidecross (Aug 1, 2012)

I have two of the Eagletac G25C flashlights; one is set up for one 18650 Eagletac battery (2 Surefire 123 Lithium) and the other for two Eagletac 18650 batteries (4 Surefire 123 Lithium batteries)

All my previous flashlights have been Surefire with the highest output of 200 lumens.

It will interesting to see how these light compare to my years of Surefire use.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 1, 2012)

benhar said:


> Thanks for the review, been waiting on this one! Do you consider the G25C2 a good alternative for someone who would have otherwise bought a Klarus XT11 if it had mode memory?


Sure, it is a solid light. Personally, I like mode memory (i.e., I typically don't use Max output that often). Also, I'm very sensitive to PWM (which the XT11 has, but the G25C2 doesn't).

You might be interested in the Klarus RS11 ... I will be reviewing that one soon, and it does have mode memory.


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## benhar (Aug 1, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Sure, it is a solid light. Personally, I like mode memory (i.e., I typically don't use Max output that often). Also, I'm very sensitive to PWM (which the XT11 has, but the G25C2 doesn't).
> 
> You might be interested in the Klarus RS11 ... I will be reviewing that one soon, and it does have mode memory.


Thanks! Yeah, mode memory is a necessity for me as I tend to turn my flashlights on and off frequently when using them, and 99% of the time I don't want it on the brightest level. I reserve that for when something goes bump in the night, or I want to see how big of an animal is attached to the pair of eyes I see 

I did look at the RS11, that and the Olight M20S-X were both a close second for me. I liked everything about it except the switch location, so hopefully your review won't make me regret putting things in motion for the EagleTac!


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## sidecross (Aug 1, 2012)

To some extent the Eagletac G25C does have some memory. 

I store the light with the head tight, but if I want to get the 30% output I twist the head to what be the second setting and then turn on the light. My G25C is still set to factory setting. This seems to work for me. My pocket light is the new Titanium Eagletac D25C that uses a Surefire 123 lithium battery, and I use the same procedure for turnig it on in either high or not.

After using the light I retighten.


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## benhar (Aug 1, 2012)

sidecross said:


> To some extent the Eagletac G25C does have some memory.


Yeah, that's why I ended up going for one. The dial-method for level control seems like a good idea, and pretty consistent with how I use my Quark Tactical.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 4, 2012)

shelm said:


> Please try to have her, too, include a XML U2 CW drop-in module for your T20C2 MkII (Yours is MkII, isnt it?) so that you could update this data too.


Eagletac must be listening ... they will send me a update T20C2 MKII XM-L to compare as well. :wave:

They are currently out of G25C2 Cool Whites, waiting for the next production run. So not sure when that one will arrive (likely at least 4-6 weeks before it ships).



BLUE LED said:


> I was wondering if this had excellent regulation if you choose not to step down.


Here is what the Turbo mode runtime looks like without the "energy saving" feature (on my AW protected 2200mAh):






You may last even longer regulated on some of the newer higher capacity cells.


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## BLUE LED (Aug 4, 2012)

Thank you for the runtime/regulation graph. It performs a little better than I would have expected


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## shelm (Aug 5, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Eagletac must be listening ... they will send me a update T20C2 MKII XM-L to compare as well. :wave:



cha!!! :rock:

Would you then be going to update your T20C2 XP-G R5 review by adding full measurement graphs in all of the existing Excel graphs (and tables)? That's hell lotta work!! 

The XM-L *U2* module has a SMO reflector and no label sticker or similar marking on the module itself, maybe you can confirm this then, thanks!


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## selfbuilt (Aug 5, 2012)

shelm said:


> Would you then be going to update your T20C2 XP-G R5 review by adding full measurement graphs in all of the existing Excel graphs (and tables)? That's hell lotta work!!


Yup, I would redo all the testing, so will post new output/throw summary tables, runtime graphs, and white wall beamshots (plus pics of the module itself). :wave:

Oh, and for those who are interested, here is out my Neutral White G25C2 compares to other lights on my new lightmeter:


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## sidecross (Aug 5, 2012)

Help!

I have two Eagletac G25C flashlights one running on 1 Eagletac 18650 the other on two Eagletac 18650 Lithium-ion batteries rated at 3100 mAh.

With both flashlights I have not been able to switch from 'Tactical Mode' to 'Regular Mode'.

I have fully read the instructions and have cleaned all contacts; can anyone write what I might not be doing wrong?


I might add that these EagletacG25C's are used for high output use; I use other flashlights for lower lumen use. Nevertheless I am puzzled by this problem.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 5, 2012)

sidecross said:


> With both flashlights I have not been able to switch from 'Tactical Mode' to 'Regular Mode'.
> I have fully read the instructions and have cleaned all contacts; can anyone write what I might not be doing wrong?


Are you sure you are starting from the second mode (i.e. the Lo level on the default tactical group)? All you need to do is flash the tailswitch rapidly >20 times, starting from off. It worked perfectly for me. You may not be flashing quick enough (note you don't need to actually click).

BTW, as an aside, if anyone has trouble getting the light to come on, check your clip ring cover. The manual has a big notice about this right at the top of the troubleshooting section (which I see now). Because the cover screws on, if it unscrews significantly, it can block the tailcap from screwing down all the way. It happened to me today, and took me a few mins to figure out.


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## sidecross (Aug 5, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Are you sure you are starting from the second mode (i.e. the Lo level on the default tactical group)? All you need to do is flash the tailswitch rapidly >20 times, starting from off. It worked perfectly for me. You may not be flashing quick enough (note you don't need to actually click).
> 
> BTW, as an aside, if anyone has trouble getting the light to come on, check your clip ring cover. The manual has a big notice about this right at the top of the troubleshooting section (which I see now). Because the cover screws on, if it unscrews significantly, it can block the tailcap from screwing down all the way. It happened to me today, and took me a few mins to figure out.




Yes, I was starting from the second level as per instructions, but I was doing 20 clicks.

I was able to switch modes by rapidly turning the switch 'on & off' without the click and very rapidly! I was able to switch on to the 'Regular Mode' by my second attempt. The key operation is 'rapidly'.

Thank you so much for your help; I am 68 years old and I must be slowing down more than I thought. 


Edit: I also had the problem with the light not working after I removed the pocket clip on my extended two 18650 version of the Eagletac G25C. It only took a minute for me to see the ring above the clip was not seated and quickly fixed this problem.


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## benhar (Aug 10, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Sure, it is a solid light. Personally, I like mode memory (i.e., I typically don't use Max output that often). Also, I'm very sensitive to PWM (which the XT11 has, but the G25C2 doesn't).
> 
> You might be interested in the Klarus RS11 ... I will be reviewing that one soon, and it does have mode memory.



Just read your RS11 review... very nice light, but the deciding factor for me is the electronic switch. I want to be able to use "momentary on" indefinitely, not have it switch over after 3 seconds (kinda contradictory, I know, but that's how I use my lights sometimes). So, EagleTac it is. Thanks again!


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## selfbuilt (Aug 10, 2012)

benhar said:


> Just read your RS11 review... very nice light, but the deciding factor for me is the electronic switch. I want to be able to use "momentary on" indefinitely, not have it switch over after 3 seconds (kinda contradictory, I know, but that's how I use my lights sometimes). So, EagleTac it is. Thanks again!


Yes, it is hard to beat a physical forward clicky for the intuitive and simple true momentary press and click for lock-on. Some electronic switches manage to approximate this fairly well, but the RS11 is not one of them unfortunately.


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## JML (Aug 11, 2012)

Another excellent review!

As far as the EagleTac pouches go, I was worried that the exposed metal of the snap, on the inside, would abrade the anodized finish of the light. So I took some industrial-strength adhesive black Velcro, cut a disk of the loop material to be slightly larger than the circular snap, and stuck it over the exposed metal. The industrial strength Velcro adhesive is far stronger than the garden-variety adhesive Velcro, and should hold for a long time. It protects the light from contact with the snap. The loop texture is very similar to the flocking of the inside of the pouch, and when in place the patch is virtually invisible.


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## sierra 18 (Sep 15, 2012)

I just bought this flashlight, which is enroute to me now. I had seen a number of reviews online, but this is by far the most comprehensive. 

I have one quick question, forgive me if I missed the answer in the body of your review, but which battery (brand and size) would you most recommend for this model? I see where battery size and contact tolerances can be an issue, so I'd like to be certain before I invest in a set of rechargeable lithium ion batteries for this light.

Again, thanks for the outstanding review,

Best,

Chris


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## selfbuilt (Sep 16, 2012)

sierra 18 said:


> I have one quick question, forgive me if I missed the answer in the body of your review, but which battery (brand and size) would you most recommend for this model? I see where battery size and contact tolerances can be an issue, so I'd like to be certain before I invest in a set of rechargeable lithium ion batteries for this light.


The diameter seems fine for all my protected 18650 cells. You just need to avoid the true flat-tops cells, which may not work. Any of the quality button top (small or wide button top) should be fine.


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## sidecross (Sep 16, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> The diameter seems fine for all my protected 18650 cells. You just need to avoid the true flat-tops cells, which may not work. Any of the quality button top (small or wide button top) should be fine.



Even the 18650 Keeppower 3100mAh which at 69.7mm which is among the tallest 18650's work with my Eagletac lights. :thumbsup:


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## selfbuilt (Oct 24, 2012)

Just noticed an interesting little quirk with the design of this light.

Changed the battery yesterday, and light wouldn't come on. Thought it was the tailcap at first, since the light worked fine when shorted at the tail. But that wasn't it - the threaded plastic ring that covers the clip attachment point had apparently loosened slightly, and was blocking the tailcap from screwing down all the way. Due to anodized threads, the light was thus stuck in lock-out mode. 

So if you mysteriously find your G25C2 not working one day, double-check to make sure the thread clip cover is screwed down all the way. Note this potential problem is likely to be found on any light that uses a threaded pocket clip cover ring, not just the G25C2. :shrug:


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## chouster (Oct 25, 2012)

Hi Selfbuilt, what happened to the cool white version Eagletac wanted to send you for a review? Maybe they could/should send you the MarkII now for a review. I would love to see you do a review of this new version and compare it to other single 18650 Xm-l lights like the TN11, T20CS, XT11 or the Scorpion V2 U2. I lost my Scorpion V2 T6 and now I'm not sure if I should buy it again or some of the others i mentioned. Your reviews were always the best readings to make a decision. By the way, are you happy with the tint on your neutral white version? Come on Eagletac, send this man a G25C2 MKII!


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## sidecross (Oct 25, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Just noticed an interesting little quirk with the design of this light.
> 
> Changed the battery yesterday, and light wouldn't come on. Thought it was the tailcap at first, since the light worked fine when shorted at the tail. But that wasn't it - the threaded plastic ring that covers the clip attachment point had apparently loosened slightly, and was blocking the tailcap from screwing down all the way. Due to anodized threads, the light was thus stuck in lock-out mode.
> 
> So if you mysteriously find your G25C2 not working one day, double-check to make sure the thread clip cover is screwed down all the way. Note this potential problem is likely to be found on any light that uses a threaded pocket clip cover ring, not just the G25C2. :shrug:



I also found a quirk in my G25C2 when using the longer Keeppower 18650 3100 mAh battery. 

When I put in the battery the switch would not work even after checking the threaded clip ring. All that was needed to do was lossen the front head and then tighten. The head contols how short or long the 18650 battery that can be used. :thumbsup:


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## selfbuilt (Oct 25, 2012)

chouster said:


> Hi Selfbuilt, what happened to the cool white version Eagletac wanted to send you for a review? Maybe they could/should send you the MarkII now for a review. I would love to see you do a review of this new version and compare it to other single 18650 Xm-l lights like the TN11, T20CS, XT11 or the Scorpion V2 U2. I lost my Scorpion V2 T6 and now I'm not sure if I should buy it again or some of the others i mentioned. Your reviews were always the best readings to make a decision. By the way, are you happy with the tint on your neutral white version? Come on Eagletac, send this man a G25C2 MKII!


I haven't heard from them in awhile, so will check in about the MK-II version. The neutral white version of the MK-I was a fairly typical neutral white tint, not sure what tint bin. As always, tint preference is just that - it comes down to what you like, and the Eagletac's neutral was about typical for that category.


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## Mags (Dec 1, 2012)

Hi Selfbuilt, a quick question on battery choice. I noticed that in your review you used an AW 2200 mah. I plan on getting the 1030 Lumen G25 so I was just wondering if an eagletac 3400mah would perform just as well if not better than the AW you used in your review. I know AW batteries are rated at pretty high discharge rates (up to 5A always) while the eagletac 18650s are rated at 4-5a. Im sure runtime on the 1030 lumen model with 3400 mah would yield higher runtime overall on lower modes but on high mode would it do just as well? Sorry for the questions but Ive been using trustfire 18650s and they cut off much sooner than they should on my more powerful lights. Thanks in advance


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## selfbuilt (Dec 1, 2012)

Mags said:


> Hi Selfbuilt, a quick question on battery choice. I noticed that in your review you used an AW 2200 mah. I plan on getting the 1030 Lumen G25 so I was just wondering if an eagletac 3400mah would perform just as well if not better than the AW you used in your review.


The only reasons I continue to use 2200mAh cells in my testing are for backward compatibility to older reviews, and maximum compatibility. 

On the later point, I somtimes run across new lights that won't take the fatter and/or longer higher-capacity cells (like 3100mAh or 3400mAh cells). I always point this out in my reviews. But it would cause a real issue for runtime testing, as I wouldn't have anything to compare them to if I didn't use a standard cell that worked in everything.

The only thing with the G25C2 is that you need to have button-top cells, and some people have reported issues with the longer-style cells. I haven't tested the 3400mAh Eagletacs personally.


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## Mags (Dec 1, 2012)

So you dont believe I will have any cutoff issues due to high discharge rates?


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## sidecross (Dec 1, 2012)

I have both the Eagletac G25C2 & G25C2 Mll and the Eagletac 3100mAh and Eagletac 3400mAh work fine in these lights.

On on G25C2 I use an extension tube and run two KeepPower 3100mAh batteries; these are among the longest 18650 batteries. I have had no problem with this set up.

As a sidenote my Nitecore TM15 runs fine with the tall KeepPower 3100mAh batteries.


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## PCS (Dec 1, 2012)

sidecross said:


> On on G25C2 I use an extension tube and run two KeepPower 3100mAh batteries; these are among the longest 18650 batteries. I have had no problem with this set up.



My experience was similar to sidecross's. I tested by G25C2 MKII with an Eagletac 3400mAh cell yesterday, and it fit and worked. I also tested the light, without the extension tube, with a single KeepPower 3100mAh cell. It was a tighter fit as the cell is quite long. It did fit, however, and worked fine.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 1, 2012)

Mags said:


> So you dont believe I will have any cutoff issues due to high discharge rates?


No, the discharge rate of this light is not a problem for any standard ICR Li ion. The only concern is size and fit, and it sounds like you will be fine.


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## Eagle 1 (Dec 7, 2012)

hey CPF! 

I bought this light (Eagletac G25C2 Mark 2) advertised at 1000 lumens from a retailer, and frankly, im having a hard time with the light and figured id come here for some advice. the light works fine in turbo (in reg and tactical settings), but my issue is in reg mode, the light will turn off and back on erratically. nothing i have tried, researched, or read has any advice whatsoever. i emailed Eagletac and they told me to send it to HONG KONG!! after spending150 on the light and bundle, it seems ridiculous to spend another 30 just to ship a 1lb package from the US to Hong Kong. i was wondering if anyone had any advice. ive tried everything in the manual, learned all the modes and submodes, and i can assure u its not a simplistic mistake. if i change (or start on) a lesser output than turbo, after 3 seconds the light will shut off for a sec, then turn back on. after that it stays on about 20 seconds, and repeats. every 20 seconds. again, really not sure what to do, any advice would help alot! thanks


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## selfbuilt (Dec 7, 2012)

Eagle 1 said:


> ive tried everything in the manual, learned all the modes and submodes, and i can assure u its not a simplistic mistake. if i change (or start on) a lesser output than turbo, after 3 seconds the light will shut off for a sec, then turn back on. after that it stays on about 20 seconds, and repeats. every 20 seconds. again, really not sure what to do, any advice would help alot! thanks


What type of battery are you using? Have you tried multiple types, included different brands of 18650 and primary CR123A?

Since you are only experiencing issues in the head-loosened state, I'm wondering if it isn't some sort of contact issue with the battery you are using (i.e., not making proper contact with the head).

Oh, and :welcome: as I see this is your first post.


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## Badbeams3 (Dec 7, 2012)

"There is an "energy saving feature" (on by default) when the light reduces output by 20% after 200 seconds in Turbo. To toggle this feature off/on, loosen the head to the fourth level and the click the light off/on 20 times rapidly at the switch.

"There is also a momentary tailcap strobe setting (off by default). To toggle this feature, tighten the head fully and click the light off/on 20 times rapidly at the switch".

20X...20 TIMES! Are you kidding me? ...1...2...3...4...5...6...7...8...9...10...11...12....13.......14..........15..............16...................17...................18..........dam cramps.............19......I can do this...........................................20. "SORRY. YOU TOOK TO LONG...PLEASE TRY AGAIN"


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## rjking (Dec 8, 2012)

Eagle 1 said:


> hey CPF!
> 
> I bought this light (Eagletac G25C2 Mark 2) ,,, it stays on about 20 seconds, and repeats. every 20 seconds. again, really not sure what to do, any advice would help alot! thanks



Seems to me that this is in a slow beacon mode. Have you tried toggling the modes?


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## sidecross (Dec 8, 2012)

I would also check the threaded ring above the clip; this can easily loosen and cause problems.

I would also agree with rjking that you may be in the slow beacon mode.


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## Up All Night (Dec 8, 2012)

Eagle 1,
If you've exhausted all recommendations with zero results you should contact your retailer for an exchange. If these on/off cycles are of a constant elapsed time, I doubt you have a contact issue. Slow beacon? Maybe, but it sounds like you have a good command on how to program the light. I've just run mine(in regular mode) and regardless of what level I start in it exhibits none of the behaviour you describe. If this issue was present "out of the box" your retailer should be willing to exchange it.......hopefully! I certainly wouldn't pay to ship it to China, not to mention the wait involved.


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## Cato (Dec 15, 2012)

Stupid question- how do I run it with two CR123 without rattle? Is there a CR123 holding device included?


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## selfbuilt (Dec 16, 2012)

Cato said:


> Stupid question- how do I run it with two CR123 without rattle? Is there a CR123 holding device included?


Yes there is, at least on the sample I purchased.

EDIT: to clarify, mine was bought as part of the kit with the diffuser cover and color filters.


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## sidecross (Dec 16, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes there is, at least on the sample I purchased.



Eagletac sells a cardridge for two CR123 (*EagleTac CR123 Battery Magazine * [ET/123/Mag])

"The EagleTac CR123A Battery Magazine is made of durable polycarbonate material and allows quick loading of batteries in the field and helps to organize your batteries. Compatible with all CR123A primary batteries and fits rechargeable RCR123 as well. *Batteries not included!"


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## Up All Night (Dec 19, 2012)

My Mark II version did not come with a cr123 magazine, nor have I seen it listed as an included accessory in any product description. It is standard with the D25LC2, the XP-G2 and XM-L U2 versions I have both came with.


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## sidecross (Dec 19, 2012)

Up All Night said:


> My Mark II version did not come with a cr123 magazine, nor have I seen it listed as an included accessory in any product description. It is standard with the D25LC2, the XP-G2 and XM-L U2 versions I have both came with.



You are right it only comes with D25LC2, but I ordered 10 of these magazines from Eagletac.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 19, 2012)

Up All Night said:


> My Mark II version did not come with a cr123 magazine, nor have I seen it listed as an included accessory in any product description. It is standard with the D25LC2, the XP-G2 and XM-L U2 versions I have both came with.


Hmmm, my Mark I was bought as part of the kit with the diffuser cover/filters and body tube extenders ... the plastic anti-rattle insert may not have been included with the standard base model. :shrug:


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## sidecross (Dec 19, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Hmmm, my Mark I was bought as part of the kit with the diffuser cover/filters and body tube extenders ... the plastic anti-rattle insert may not have been included with the standard base model. :shrug:



I have bought 2 G25C2 with the accesory kits and 1 G25C2 Markll and none came with 123 x2 insert.

I did buy from Eagletac 10 of these inserts and they make for quick interchange of 123 batteries in the field. :thumbsup:


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## selfbuilt (Dec 19, 2012)

sidecross said:


> I have bought 2 G25C2 with the accesory kits and 1 G25C2 Markll and none came with 123 x2 insert.


Mine didn't come with the full 2xCR123 insert either, but a smaller plastic tube that was presumably for rattle prevention. I just checked the manual, and this is confirmed - but it is meant to be used when the 3x or 4x battery tube extender is in place. For regular 2xCR123A usage, you can buy the proper full-sized insert separately, as you observed. Olight also sells a similar one. These typically work in most lights wide enough for 18650 cells.


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## bluemax_1 (Mar 20, 2013)

Another great review. I have some questions though.

1) Are there any changes in the interface between mk1 and mk2?
2) I see that there's a way to program the light to trigger the strobe from any brightness with a double click of the tailswitch, which is great. On the new TX25C2, you can trigger the strobe OR go straight to Turbo from any brightness with the button. With the G25C2-mk2, is there a way to go straight to Turbo from Low/Med, one-handed when holding the mk2 with my thumb on the tailswitch?

I like the design and features of the G25C2-mkII, especially with the upcoming XM-L2, 21,800 lux, flip up diffuser etc. but I need to be able to immediately trigger Turbo (and strobe, depending) from Low or Med one-handed (the light must be one-hand capable without requiring switching grip positions to turn it on and a different position to change brightness levels and/or trigger the tactical strobe).

If the TX25C2 had similar throw and a flip up diffuser like the G25C2-mkII, I'd possibly get that.



Max


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## selfbuilt (Mar 21, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> 1) Are there any changes in the interface between mk1 and mk2?
> 2) I see that there's a way to program the light to trigger the strobe from any brightness with a double click of the tailswitch, which is great. On the new TX25C2, you can trigger the strobe OR go straight to Turbo from any brightness with the button. With the G25C2-mk2, is there a way to go straight to Turbo from Low/Med, one-handed when holding the mk2 with my thumb on the tailswitch?


Very little has changed in the interface between the MK I and MK II. Mainly, there are a few more auxillary modes now.

In answer to your second question - no. With tailcap strobe enabled, you can jump to strobe from any head-set level by simply flashling the tailcap from On. But there is no way to jump to Turbo without tightening the head. This is the limitation of the use of a physical clicky switch interface - it can only be programmed to do one thing. The TX25C2 has the extra flexibility that an electronic switch provides.

My review of the G25C2-II with XM-L2 should up within a week.


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## bluemax_1 (Mar 21, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Very little has changed in the interface between the MK I and MK II. Mainly, there are a few more auxillary modes now.
> 
> In answer to your second question - no. With tailcap strobe enabled, you can jump to strobe from any head-set level by simply flashling the tailcap from On. But there is no way to jump to Turbo without tightening the head. This is the limitation of the use of a physical clicky switch interface - it can only be programmed to do one thing. The TX25C2 has the extra flexibility that an electronic switch provides.
> 
> My review of the G25C2-II with XM-L2 should up within a week.


Ah, thanks again for the info. Can't wait to see the XM-L2 results. 

BTW, one last question about the interface: I know this light is significantly bigger than a Quark QPA, but in the photos of you holding it, it appears that you might be able to hold the head with your pinky while reaching the tailswitch with your thumb. This is how I trigger Turbo/strobe on my QPA-G2 one-handed, by holding the head with my pinky and turning the body with my thumb and index finger (and I can then press the tailswitch for strobe if needed). 

Is it possible to do this with the G25C2? Or is the head twist for brightness selection too stiff to easily do that? (Or maybe the head is too far to reach, although it appears that you can reach the rear part of that long head with your pinky). With some lights (and this appears to be one) it can help if you position your hand so the tips of your ring and middle fingers are on the pocket clip, allowing you to turn the body by shoving on the pocket clip with those fingers while holding the head with your pinky.


Max


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## selfbuilt (Mar 21, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> BTW, one last question about the interface: I know this light is significantly bigger than a Quark QPA, but in the photos of you holding it, it appears that you might be able to hold the head with your pinky while reaching the tailswitch with your thumb. This is how I trigger Turbo/strobe on my QPA-G2 one-handed, by holding the head with my pinky and turning the body with my thumb and index finger (and I can then press the tailswitch for strobe if needed).


I just tried and was unsuccessful ... perhaps you need stronger (or longer) pinky fingers than I have, but I couldn't overcome the resistance. I think the problem is the size of the head is such as you don't have enough leverage with your pinky.


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## shelm (Mar 21, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> My review of the G25C2-II with XM-L2 should up within a week.



sb will you update this thread or create a new review thread? 
looking forward!!


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## selfbuilt (Mar 21, 2013)

shelm said:


> sb will you update this thread or create a new review thread?
> looking forward!!


I'll create a new thread.

_*UPDATE:* My new G25C2 Mark II review - with XM-L2 U2 - is now up. _


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## bluemax_1 (Mar 21, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> I just tried and was unsuccessful ... perhaps you need stronger (or longer) pinky fingers than I have, but I couldn't overcome the resistance. I think the problem is the size of the head is such as you don't have enough leverage with your pinky.



Thanks again for the prompt reply. I guess I'll have to find a dealer who has one in stock so I can try it for myself before taking the plunge. I'm used to the Fenix and 4/7's interfaces and like them, but neither has a 1 x 18650 as bright.

If someone could make a light that uses 1 x 18650, puts out at least 20,000 lux and also a decent low/med mode (5-50 lumen low, 100-200 med), can get to Turbo and strobe immediately from any brightness/mode, have a USB recharge port and completely one-hand single grip operable, I'd be all over it. Anything in all the lights you've reviewed fit the bill? I might have to start a thread in the recommend me a light forum.

Thanks again. Looking forward to the XM-L2 review.


Max


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## selfbuilt (Mar 21, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> If someone could make a light that uses 1 x 18650, puts out at least 20,000 lux and also a decent low/med mode (5-50 lumen low, 100-200 med), can get to Turbo and strobe immediately from any brightness/mode, have a USB recharge port and completely one-hand single grip operable, I'd be all over it. Anything in all the lights you've reviewed fit the bill? I might have to start a thread in the recommend me a light forum.
> Max


That's a pretty demanding list. :laughing: But there is actually one light that meets it - the Nitecore P25. You have to turn the light on at the tailcap first, but can jump to max or strobe from any level by use of the side switch.


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## bluemax_1 (Mar 22, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> That's a pretty demanding list. :laughing: But there is actually one light that meets it - the Nitecore P25. You have to turn the light on at the tailcap first, but can jump to max or strobe from any level by use of the side switch.


Funny that you mentioned the P25. I just got mine a couple of days ago. If I leave the tailswitch always On and only use the side switch to activate the light, then it sort of satisfies the one-handed operation requirement. Unfortunately, the light can turn On via the side switch fairly easily, when the tailswitch is not turned Off. 

If the tailcap could be re-oriented, it would work. I can use it single-handed with my right hand, using my thumb on the tailswitch and pinky to trigger the side switch, but with my left hand, the orientation of the tailcap places my thumb on one of the wing tabs making that a no-go. Since my right hand is my gun hand, I have to be able to operate the light with my Left. In addition, I realized that the P25 is not too intuitive. Due to the fact that the charging port with its rubber cover is in the same location on the other side of the head, drawing the light quickly makes it difficult to know if you have your finger on the side switch or on the charging port, and it's impossible to tell with gloves on, so the search continues.

If I can find a nearby dealer with the G25C2, I'll test it out to see if I can do the pinky on head twist technique. It dosn't have a USB charging port, but that's not a vital requirement.


Max


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## phantom23 (Mar 23, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> *Eagletac G25C2* (stock): Weight 144.3g, Length: 181mm, Width (bezel): 39.6mm
> *Eagletac G25C2* (with diffuser/tailstand cap): Weight 160.2g, Length: 150.6mm, Width (widest, at bezel diffuser hinge): 46.2mm


I think stock should be the shorter one.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 23, 2013)

phantom23 said:


> I think stock should be the shorter one.


Yes, I just noticed that today while working on my G25C2-II review. I'll fix it here as well - the numbers are reversed.


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## lightsource (Mar 24, 2013)

I'm looking forward to seeing the review of the XM-L2 as I'm currently looking at one of these to replace my XT11 that was "borrowed" by a mate and I am trying to decide if I should just grab one of the current XM-L T6 NW versions or if there is enough of an increase with the XM-L2 T6 version to warrant holding off until it's available.

I understand that you are most likely reviewing the XM-L2 U2 not the T6 but should still give me an indication of if the increase is worth waiting for


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## selfbuilt (Mar 25, 2013)

lightsource said:


> I am trying to decide if I should just grab one of the current XM-L T6 NW versions or if there is enough of an increase with the XM-L2 T6 version to warrant holding off until it's available.


Well, a XM-L2 T6 is two bin steps up from a XM-L T6 (i.e., the XM-L2 T6 is the equivalent of a XM-L U3). There may also have been changes in the circuit over time (i.e., how heavily driven the light is). Always hard to know, with changes over time. But you are right, my XM-L2 U2 should give you a pretty good idea what to expect from a XM-L2 T6, given they are concurrent models.

I see you have been registered here awhile, but given your first post, let me say :welcome:

_*UPDATE:* My new G25C2 Mark II review - with XM-L2 U2 - is now up. _


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## lightsource (Mar 26, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Well, a XM-L2 T6 is two bin steps up from a XM-L T6 (i.e., the XM-L2 T6 is the equivalent of a XM-L U3). There may also have been changes in the circuit over time (i.e., how heavily driven the light is). Always hard to know, with changes over time. But you are right, my XM-L2 U2 should give you a pretty good idea what to expect from a XM-L2 T6, given they are concurrent models.
> 
> I see you have been registered here awhile, but given your first post, let me say :welcome:



Selfbuilt,

Thanks for the official welcome lol, you're right i've been registered for a while but thanks to the good work you and all the other reviewers do on here i've always managed to find the answers I needed provided I did a little bit of looking so didn't post anything until now. It was quite a learning curve working out all the new technology etc with LED's etc but have got my head around most of it now. I look forward to reading you're G25C2 XM-L2 review soon hopefully. Keep up the excellent work i'm sure I'm not the only one that appreciate the time and effort you guys go to on here to do these reviews for us.


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## hemdale (May 6, 2013)

Hi Selfbuilt,

Did you buy the extension tubes ?
If yes, would you be kind enough to give me each lenght with the different tubes attached ?

Many thks


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## selfbuilt (May 6, 2013)

hemdale said:


> Did you buy the extension tubes ?
> If yes, would you be kind enough to give me each lenght with the different tubes attached ?


I didn't measure them, but they come in 1xCR123A and 2xCR123A sizes. Since a standard CR123A is ~34.5mm, you could use that as a pretty good approximation of the length extension to the light.


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## hemdale (May 16, 2013)

I agree. Thanks mate.


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## välineurheilija (Jun 6, 2013)

I bought this light and i love it but i havent found an answer to my question about the voltage range so has anyone tried if the light cuts off before the protection on a normal protected 18650? Also if somebody knows if a Panasonic CGR18650CH works with the light in question? Thanks in advance :wave:


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## välineurheilija (Jun 7, 2013)

To answer a part of my own question the battery works just fine despite the nonprotruding button


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