# Surefire L2 with Cree MC-E



## Energie (Nov 22, 2008)

*Surefire L2*






*L2 head disassembled*






*Original heatsink*






*New heatsink* with MC-E (the driver is in the light-body)
















*Luxeon 5* (left) - *Cree MC-E* (right)
Luxeon 5: 110 emitter lumen at 700 mA, 6,8V
Cree MC-E: 370 emitter lumen at 700 mA 6,4 V (2S2P)











Distance to the Wall 3 yards
Pics underexposed

*Surefire E1L* Cree 2stage (on high)





*Stock Surefire L2* (with Luxeon 5)





*Modified Surefire L2 *(with Cree MC-E)





*Beamshots / Animation: Link*


*IR-Scan: see Post #49*

*Surefire L4 / KL4 mod: Link*


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## shomie911 (Nov 22, 2008)

Wow, great job!

I want one now. :thumbsup:


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## mudman cj (Nov 22, 2008)

Sweet light! :thumbsup:

What driver are you using?


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## Illum (Nov 22, 2008)

did you make that heatsink yourself?


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## Energie (Nov 22, 2008)

mudman cj said:


> What driver are you using?


 
Stock driver (approx. 6,4 V, 700 mA) and the original battery-contacts in the head. Same runtime as before.
Only the heatsink is new (and the MC-E, of course).

@Illum the nation: yes, the heatsink is homemade.


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## dom (Nov 22, 2008)

Nice 
You don't seem to have any artifacts from the reflector either,which is great.

Cheers
Dom


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## Boltgun (Nov 22, 2008)

very nice mod...now I am thinking it is something to do with my L2...couple of questions? 

Where did you get the LED

how did you get the head appart without damaging anything? 

Are you willing to make another heatsink? I want one!

Thanks

Boltgun


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## Energie (Nov 26, 2008)

I´ve got the MC-E here: Link
I make single pieces only, therefore no additional heatsinks. Sorry.

The L2 head came appart quite easy. I´ve used a heat gun and two strap wrenches.


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## darkzero (Nov 26, 2008)

Nice heatsink!


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## LLCoolBeans (Nov 30, 2008)

I've got an L2 that disparately needs an upgrade. I was thinking of sending it off to be modded, but this actually looks like a fairly simple procedure. I've got a little milling machine, no lathe though, so assuming I can find some aluminum bar stock of the appropriate diameter, I should be able to mill a heat sink out of it.

Please excuse my ignorance of LED emitters and electronics in general, but would I be able to use a P7 in place of the MC-E? Would that even be an advantage? The P7 is quite a bit larger in diameter, so I would have to open up the hole in the reflector.


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## LLCoolBeans (Nov 30, 2008)

Another question...

I've been told using rechargables in this light will destroy it. Is that due to the driver or emitter? Does this mod allow for the use of rechargables?


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## LLCoolBeans (Nov 30, 2008)

One more...

What is different between the old heat sink and the one you made? Just the seat for the emitter?


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## Energie (Nov 30, 2008)

The stock L2 driver delivers 6-7 V at 700 mA.
Vf of the P7 is 3.4-3,6 V, which is to low.

The MC-E can be wired 2S2P. Then the voltage ist approx. 6,4 V, perfect with the stock driver. 
Each die gets 3,2 V and 350 mA:







You can use a rechargeable cell: 3,7 V, 1.100 mAh (AW´s protected 14670)

You can use the stock heatsink. But you need a small copper piece under the MC-E, approx. 1,4 mm high.
I´ve made a new heatsink with a slightly smaller diameter (20 mm) than the stock heatsink. So I can adjust the emitter radial after glueing it to the heatsink.


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## Bullzeyebill (Nov 30, 2008)

Did you measure the current at the LED? I recall runtime graphs of the L2 showing a much steeper drop off in output compared to the KL4 (L4). I think current to the LED of the L2 is probably 880 or so, if my memory serves me. What does the MC-E pull from the batteries.


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## Energie (Nov 30, 2008)

Just measured the *battery current* (with 2 fresh 3 V Surefire cells):
L2 #A27298 with luxeon 5: *1,01 A*
L2 #A19282 with Cree MC-E: *1,10 A*
KL4 #A39334 with Cree MC-E: *1,08 A*

I think, you´re right. Current to the led is higher than 700 mA and probably between 800 - 900 mA.


Edit: 
*current to the led* (L2 with MC-E) *is 795 mA* (with two fresh 3 V Surefire cells)


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## LuxLuthor (Nov 30, 2008)

Beautiful job. I think of doing something similar to boost the output of my stock L2, but like its lower output for a number of purposes (close up work), and ended up just buying new brighter lights. Besides, my L2 was the first "real" light I bought that ultimately led me look at company's other models, and then to this forum...so it has a sentimental place in my heart.


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## LLCoolBeans (Dec 30, 2008)

Ok, I've got everything I need to get started on mine.

One question though.

I am going to use the stock heat sink and machine a riser. Is there any reason why I should not use the riser as the jumper connection and solder directly to it?

Also, I have some copper and some silver that I could use as the material for the riser, I know i can solder directly to copper, can I solder to silver in the same manner?

Thanks


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## mcmc (Dec 31, 2008)

This is a wonderful job!
One question: how's the donut? Is there an X-shaped null void at the center? I'm amazed it looks to do so well and so throwy with the stock reflector - if there's no donut, that's awesome!

Look forward to hearing from you =) Great work.


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## AaronM (Dec 31, 2008)

I've also done this mod and can report that if you keep the spacer height below 1.80mm
there will be no doughnut.

Take a peek at post #54 on this thread for details:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/210173&page=2


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## LLCoolBeans (Dec 31, 2008)

Well, here's my progress so far...

Here is the heat sink with original emitter removed.






The MC-E just barely squeezes down into place behind the reflector. This is perfect as this automatically centers the emitter in the reflector and holds it securely. This also gives me a couple of good spots where I can add epoxy and secure the emitter permanently after everything else is done.











New riser. Dimensions: .5x.25x.048"










The material used to make the riser, 1oz pure silver bullion investment slab.


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## LLCoolBeans (Dec 31, 2008)

I intend to use thermal compound to attach the body of the emitter to the riser. Once that is centered I'll solder the emitter legs directly to the riser to make the jumper connection. Then I'll solder a couple of 24ga wires to the airborne legs for the positive and negative connections. After that's done, press the emitter into place smear everything with compound and insert heat sink.

This is my first modding project, so if I'm doing something wrong please speak up.

Thanks


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## Energie (Dec 31, 2008)

mcmc said:


> One question: how's the donut? Is there an X-shaped null void at the center?


 
The "X-shaped donut" is slightly visible at short distances (1-2 feet) on a white wall.

*MC-E, distance 3 inch* (SF L2 on high)






*MC-E, distance 10 inch* (SF L2 on low, pic underexposed)





*LLCoolBeans:*
I´ve seen your question about soldering in the machining section.
Silver is an excellent heatsink.
But there is a problem. The thermal paste between the silver heatsink and the MC-E leads the heat from soldering direct to the dies. I think, more than 1-2 seconds soldering may damage the MC-E.


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## LLCoolBeans (Dec 31, 2008)

Energie said:


> I´ve seen your question about soldering in the machining section.
> Silver is an excellent heatsink.
> But there is a problem. The thermal paste between the silver heatsink and the MC-E leads the heat from soldering direct to the dies. I think, more than 1-2 seconds soldering may damage the MC-E.



Dang! That throws a monkey wrench into the works. It's definitely going to take more than 1-2 seconds.

I guess there's one way to find out for sure. :sweat:

Anyone else have an opinion on this? Am I going to cook the emitter trying to solder the legs to the silver riser?


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## mudman cj (Dec 31, 2008)

Its not advisable. But, you could insert a thin heat shield between the silver and the LED thermal pad while you solder, then remove the shield, work thermal grease/adhesive into the gap, and press into place. This will bend the LED leads slightly, but will not break them. The hardest part will be working the thermal grease/adhesive into the gap.


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## LLCoolBeans (Dec 31, 2008)

mudman cj said:


> Its not advisable. But, you could insert a thin heat shield between the silver and the LED thermal pad while you solder, then remove the shield, work thermal grease/adhesive into the gap, and press into place. This will bend the LED leads slightly, but will not break them. The hardest part will be working the thermal grease/adhesive into the gap.



That would be more work than just doing away with the riser/jumper combo altogether and using a wire like Energie did. The only reason I thought of the idea was to make less work for myself and not have to change any of the original components. I can always just cut off the little ears on my riser and drill two additional holes in the heat sink for the jumper wire. Looks like that may be what I need to do. 

Dang! And I thought my solution was so slick. Oh, well, live and learn. It is my first mod after all.


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## Energie (Dec 31, 2008)

I think, a jumper wire is the way to go.
You can lead the jumper wire through the stock heatsink,
or: 
drill two small holes and use a small file to make room under the silver heatsink.


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## LLCoolBeans (Dec 31, 2008)

That's a fine idea, but I don't think my riser is thick enough to accommodate a groove deep enough to envelop a 24ga wire with insulation. This also would reduce the amount of surface aria in contact with the heat sink.

I'm going to rethink this tonight, but I'll probably just end up drilling two new holes in the stock heat sink.

Thanks for your help on this guys.


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 1, 2009)

Well, I got it all back together finally. I had a lot of trouble learning to solder wires to those tiny emitter legs. That was a lot more difficult than I had originally imagined. Got the hang of it eventually though, but there was one casualty. Luckily I bought two emitters.

Cut the ears off of my riser and used a jumper wire.

It's working now, but I'm not seeing any noticeable increase in brightness. It would appear to be about the same brightness as the Luxeon 5 was. Except for that the Lux 5 had a nicer tint and less artifacting. Dang! Did I do something wrong?

No doughnut but the X is pretty prominent.


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## DaFABRICATA (Jan 1, 2009)

It should be noticably brighter than the LUX V.

I run mine on a single RCR and its still way brighter than a stock KL4. 

Sounds like there may be a problem....are you using FRESH batteries?


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 1, 2009)

DaFABRICATA said:


> It should be noticably brighter than the LUX V.
> 
> I run mine on a single RCR and its still way brighter than a stock KL4.
> 
> Sounds like there may be a problem....are you using FRESH batteries?



Yea, that was the first thing I tried.


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 1, 2009)

It's a WD M bin. Spot appears white, maybe slight yellow tint. Spill is purpleish :green:. Old Lux5 had a nice even slightly warm beam.

Could something be shorting? I'm guessing if something was shorting, it just wouldn't work at all or work briefly then self destruct. I did solder and resolder the legs of the emitter to the wires several times before I got it right. Could I have over heated it when soldering? What if I got the polarity reversed? It's a diode so electrons should only flow one way, right?

Dang.


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## Energie (Jan 1, 2009)

How much is the current drawn from the batteries (see post #15)?


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 1, 2009)

Energie said:


> How much is the current drawn from the batteries (see post #15)?



How do I test that?


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## Energie (Jan 1, 2009)

Remove the tailcap of the light.
Use a multimeter, one tip on the light-body, the other on the "-" contact of the battery. 
Current should be at 1,0 - 1,1 A (two fresh 3V batteries).


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 1, 2009)

Energie said:


> Remove the tailcap of the light.
> Use a multimeter, one tip on the light-body, the other on the "-" contact of the battery.
> Current should be at 1,0 - 1,1 A (two fresh 3V batteries).



I'm reading 1.25, what does that mean?


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## Energie (Jan 1, 2009)

Perhaps the batteries are not new. 1,25 A with used batteries is ok so far.
If the MC-E is wired correct (and without a short) I suspect it has been damaged during the soldering.
The MC-E is far brighter than the Lux5 (see post #1).


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## Icarus (Jan 7, 2009)

LLCoolBeans said:


> It's a WD M bin. Spot appears white, maybe slight yellow tint. Spill is purpleish :green:. Old Lux5 had a nice even slightly warm beam.


Where did you buy your MC-E's? 
Any updates on your mod?


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 7, 2009)

The WD M bin I got from Kaidomain.

I have a couple of 5As coming in any day now. I was going to try again with one of those. I have to assume that I overheated the emitter while soldering it, since that is the only info I have to go on.


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## Icarus (Jan 8, 2009)

LLCoolBeans said:


> The WD M bin I got from Kaidomain.
> 
> I have a couple of 5As coming in any day now. I was going to try again with one of those. I have to assume that I overheated the emitter while soldering it, since that is the only info I have to go on.


 
:thanks: keep us updated about your mod. :thumbsup:


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## Icarus (Jan 8, 2009)

Very nice mod Energy! :twothumbs


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## rayman (Jan 8, 2009)

Nice mod :thumbsup:.

Can I ask you what reflector you used for your mod?

thanks
rayman


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## Energie (Jan 8, 2009)

I´ve used the stock reflector.
Some additional details here.


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 9, 2009)

Icarus said:


> :thanks: keep us updated about your mod. :thumbsup:



New emitters just arrived today. We'll see if I can't destroy these too. 

Going to rework the heat sink again to make soldering easier. I tried just making two new small holes for the jumper wires, but that required me to solder wires to the emitter that were already bent at a 90 degree angle, so that they would then be in position to fit through the tiny holes. That make it a tight squeeze to get the soldering iron in place and that may be why I ended up overheating the emitter. This time I'm going to drill big fat holes for both wires on either side to pass through, like on Energie's custom sink. This will give me more of a fudge factor and the position of the wires won't need to be so precise.

With my method I am seating the emitter and riser in place in the reflector, then inserting the heat sink in behind, rather than attaching the emitter to the heat sink then soldering to it. This makes it much easier to get the emitter centered, but I can't use one single jumper wire. So, what I did before and what I plan on doing again, is to hook splice the two jumper wires together after the heat sink has been screwed into place, then shrink wrapping over the splice. Is this an acceptable method? Seems OK to me, but please let me know if this is bad form. And yes, I am soldering the hook splice together.


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 10, 2009)

Finished reworking the heat sink.













I should have done this to begin with. Now I've got plenty of room.


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## mudman cj (Jan 10, 2009)

It sounds like you soldered the wires to the emitter before it was heatsinked. If that is true, then that means the slug, and through it the die, had nowhere to dissipate heat as quickly as it came in the leads from your soldering iron. The die will not get as hot if the slug is attached to the heatsink before you solder. 

Here is how I did it. First I applied an even and thin layer of thermal epoxy to the heat sink using a razor blade. Then I mounted the emitter to the heatsink/riser. I carefully pressed down on the sides of the emitter to thin the epoxy layer. While the epoxy is still wet, I carefully inserted the heatsink into the reflector to check if the LED was centered. If not, then adjust and repeat until it is just right. Don't try this step until you have made clearance on the back of the reflector for the larger MC-E, of course. 

Let the epoxy cure for a whole day (if you can possibly wait that long :nana, and then feed your wires through the heatsink, solder them onto the emitter leads, reinsert the heatsink into the back of the reflector, and use the screws to secure them. You need the wires to be about 24 gauge to have enough flexibility to leave extra length for attaching the screws while still being able to then get the circuit board to seat against the heat sink.


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 10, 2009)

mudman cj said:


> It sounds like you soldered the wires to the emitter before it was heatsinked. If that is true, then that means the slug, and through it the die, had nowhere to dissipate heat as quickly as it came in the leads from your soldering iron. The die will not get as hot if the slug is attached to the heatsink before you solder.



Yes, that's what I did. I realized that is probably what caused the problem. I'm going to do it differently this time. I was hoping to avoid using the thermal epoxy on both sides of the riser, but I guess it doesn't really matter.


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## mudman cj (Jan 10, 2009)

Well, your instincts are right. The extra layer of epoxy does add thermal resistance, but the only way around it is to build a new heatsink out of a solid piece. It just so happens that AaronM has some of them for sale. But if you are driving the LED with the stock driver at a maximum of 5W, then I agree that it probably matters very little. If you were to use a driver that pushes it to 10W then you would have more to lose from the extra layer. I used one of Aaron's heatsinks in my KL4 and I am very pleased with it. He has the focal distance spot on to eliminate the dark cross artifact. The beam is quite the wall of light!


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 10, 2009)

The thermal epoxy between the riser and emitter is curing now.


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## Energie (Jan 11, 2009)

mudman cj said:


> ...But if you are driving the LED with the stock driver at a maximum of 5W, then I agree that it probably matters very little....


 
You are right. 
After 10 minutes runtime the head-temperature of the mod. L2 is approx. 42 °C, a bit lower than the stock L2.

The L4 is different, because of the driver in the head.
After 10 minutes runtime the head-temperature is approx. 51 °C.


*Surefire L2 stock version (Lux5)*
*Surefire L2 modified (MC-E)*
*Surefire L4 modified (MC-E)*







*Runtime 10 minutes,*
*Power from the battery approx. 6,2 W (all lights)*
*



*
´
18 °C temperature of the background
29 °C min. temperature (L2 MC-E tailcap)
51 °C max. temperature (L4 MC-E head)


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## Illum (Jan 11, 2009)

Thats it! I'm getting me a L2 MC-E light instead...51C is too darn dangerous for my liking:green:


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## toby_pra (Jan 11, 2009)

Real craftmanship Energie!


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 11, 2009)

Emitter and riser are now attached to the heat sink...





Now, for the tricky part.


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## mudman cj (Jan 11, 2009)

Illum_the_nation said:


> Thats it! I'm getting me a L2 MC-E light instead...51C is too darn dangerous for my liking:green:



How is 51C dangerous? At a 5W drive level (stock circuit), that equates to a 15C rise (3 degrees C/W for MC-E) for the die over the temperature of the slug, which in this case is somewhat higher than 51C. If we assume the slug is at 60C, then that puts the die at 75C. From the datasheet, the MC-E would be in the region of 85% luminous flux output due to temperature derating. The L2 LED is running at about the 90% level in terms of temperature derating for comparison (assuming 5W).

I am surprised to see the difference in operating temperature between the L2 and L4. I thought they were driving the LED at the same power level and with about the same heatsink effectiveness, but this makes it seem as though the L2 is better at conducting heat from the head to the body. I think the L2 and L4 drivers are driving the LED at the same power level. Your battery draw measurements confirm this unless one circuit has a much lower efficiency than the other.

Notice how the L4 head seems to be thermally disconnected from the body compared to the L2 as evidenced by the sharp transition in temperature. This makes me think that the L4 is not a good host for the MC-E driven to 10W after all. 

Thanks to Energie for posting those thermal imaging pics. Very nice. :twothumbs


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 11, 2009)

mudman cj said:


> Thanks to Energie for posting those thermal imaging pics. Very nice. :twothumbs



No, kidding. It's great you have access to thermal imaging equipment, what a terrific resource. :thumbsup: 

Looks like your job is a bit more interesting than mine, if you have FLIR equipment just laying around the office. Sweet!


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## Energie (Jan 11, 2009)

A thermal imaging camera is a nice toy for flashaholics.
Slightly OT: 
Mod. Surefire E1e with a good heatsink design.


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 11, 2009)

Energie, I'd like to request that you start a thermal imaging thread. How fun! 


My jumper wire is ready for soldering. Now it's time to eat some lunch before I get started. :sweat:


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 11, 2009)

Connections soldered...





Insert heat sink...





Solder to terminals...





Done.

Well, either I over heated it again (not likely, I was very careful this time) or there's something else I'm doing wrong or my expectations were just sky high. 

Light functions fine but not much brighter than the old Lux5.

Did I wire it incorrectly? :sigh:


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 11, 2009)

Just a note here on tint. The 5A tint is worlds nicer than the WD. Much easier on the eyes. It'll be dark in about 3 hours, looking forward to trying it in the dark.


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## mudman cj (Jan 11, 2009)

It looks like you are bypassing the circuit and running direct drive with the emitter wired 2s2p. For direct drive, you need to wire the LED full parallel. And you need to measure the current with different Li-ion cells before using them because larger cells (and especially an IMR18650) will overdrive a parallel MC-E. If you want to use the emitter 2s2p then you want to use the circuit.


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 11, 2009)

mudman cj said:


> It looks like you are bypassing the circuit and running direct drive with the emitter wired 2s2p. For direct drive, you need to wire the LED full parallel. And you need to measure the current with different Li-ion cells before using them because larger cells (and especially an IMR18650) will overdrive a parallel MC-E. If you want to use the emitter 2s2p then you want to use the circuit.



Bypassing what circuit? The driver is in the tailcap. I thought I was supposed to wire it 2S2P?


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## GarageBoy (Jan 11, 2009)

No machining needed like the KL4?


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## mudman cj (Jan 11, 2009)

LLCoolBeans said:


> Bypassing what circuit? The driver is in the tailcap. I thought I was supposed to wire it 2S2P?



Oh, yes. Sorry, I was thinking about the KL4 again.

I don'tknow if you have another L2 or an L4 to compare side by side with it. I had the opportunity today to compare my 5A MC-E KL4 side by side with a stock KL4. The center of the beam was no brighter than stock, but the 'hotspot' (if you can call it that) was larger and there was much more in the spill. I estimate from data sheets that it puts out about 230 lumens at most, and ceiling bounce tests suggest to me that this is about right. I doubt you damaged the LED this time, so perhaps your expectations were too high. It should be more of a wall of light than it was, and as you mentioned, the tint is quite an improvement.


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 11, 2009)

GarageBoy said:


> No machining needed like the KL4?



Sort of. You'll need to make a riser and drill new holes in the heat sink. No machining of the reflector/head was necessary.


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## GarageBoy (Jan 11, 2009)

Why is it necessary on the KL4?


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## Illum (Jan 13, 2009)

Keeping in mind that the L4 driver is located in the KL4 while the L2 has the drivers built in to the body. The heatsink is probably shaped differently compared to that of the L2.


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 17, 2009)

Energie,

I bought the exact same 14670 battery. It does work, however I have to wonder why the 14670? Why not a 17670 or 18650?

Thanks


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## Illum (Jan 17, 2009)

LLCoolBeans said:


> Energie,
> 
> I bought the exact same 14670 battery. It does work, however I have to wonder why the 14670? Why not a 17670 or 18650?
> 
> Thanks



18650 absolutely will not fit in a E series body, the L2 is about the same diameter as a E series. 17670 will fit if the body is bored out some using sandpaper, otherwise the protected version will not fit. 14670 would be the next size in line for lithium secondaries


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## LLCoolBeans (Jan 18, 2009)

Illum_the_nation said:


> 18650 absolutely will not fit in a E series body, the L2 is about the same diameter as a E series. 17670 will fit if the body is bored out some using sandpaper, otherwise the protected version will not fit. 14670 would be the next size in line for lithium secondaries



I figured 18650 would not fit, but I thought 17670 would. I guess I could have bored out the tube.

I bought one of the multi-size ShoShine chargers. Nowhere on the package does or literature does it mention 14670, however my 14670 does fit and does charge and does not get hot while doing so. Is this safe? Packaging does list 14430 and 14250 among many other sizes, but not 14670. Did they just run out of room, is ShoShine just not aware of 14670 or should I not be using this charger for 14670 at all?


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## Illum (Jan 18, 2009)

all the lithium secondaries act the same way...they are depleted at 3.7V and full at 4.2V. The only difference is capacity. As long as the charger ends the charge sequence at 4.2V [preferably 4.1V for unprotected] your not going to have an issue.


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## Bullzeyebill (Jan 18, 2009)

Illum_the_nation said:


> 18650 absolutely will not fit in a E series body, the L2 is about the same diameter as a E series. 17670 will fit if the body is bored out some using sandpaper, otherwise the protected version will not fit. 14670 would be the next size in line for lithium secondaries



17650's will fit, and I run them ever so often in my E series bodies. Got to monitor the voltage once in a while. Not sure if they will fit in the L2 body, which I understand has a smaller ID.

Bill


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## Illum (Jan 19, 2009)

does AW make protected 17650s? how much is their capacity? around 1300mah or less?


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## Bullzeyebill (Jan 20, 2009)

Illum_the_nation said:


> does AW make protected 17650s? how much is their capacity? around 1300mah or less?



Go to Light Hound and see AW's cells. 17670's are available-protected. About 1600mAh's. You know this don't you? You have been around for quite awhile. Need to do more reading/research here on CPF. :thumbsup:

Bill


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## savumaki (Apr 19, 2009)

I have an L2 I was going to sell, however this mod seems to be something I could handle and it would certainly improve its output.
Anything further from LLCoolBeans on your mod or further input from anyone?

Karl


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## Bullzeyebill (Apr 19, 2009)

deleted, posted in error


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## fsk141 (Oct 12, 2009)

Energie: I see in the pictures that you have two head's for the L2. Did you purchase another L2 light, or were you able to get just the head assembly somewhere?

Also would you suggest any other cree led's, or would you stick with the 2S2P?

I'm planning on getting 14670 protected batteries for my L2, and think a cree upgrade would be stupendous...

Thanks ahead of time, Jonny


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## ROK (Oct 13, 2009)

fsk141 said:


> Also would you suggest any other cree led's, or would you stick with the 2S2P?



I have modded several KL4's, L2's & U2's with MC-E. Stock circuit of L2 is made for LuxV. So 2S2P of MC-E is adequate to it.
Also you can use stock heatsink with copper shim, about 1.27mm thick.


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## pistolsnipe (Jan 11, 2010)

would anyone be able to make me a shim for this project? i don't have any copper/silver stock laying around. let me know a price if you can.


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