# What is the best headlamp for running?



## Yavox (Aug 22, 2016)

I am looking for something:

- with a strong floody beam
- as compact and light as possible
- with a comfortable headband keeping it at proper place and maintaining the angle at which the lamp was set

Any suggestions?


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## The_Driver (Aug 22, 2016)

The Armytek Wizard is very, very good for running. Is has a special TIR-lens, thats gives it a perfectly smooth, but somewhat focused floodbeam (imagine a "carpet of light"). Many cheap lights have the "bouncing spot effect" and cause tunnel vision. With the Armytek this effect is greatly reduced. This lens is the reason why I think they are better for running than the headlamps from Zebralight (which use reflectors, sometimes together with a diffused lens). Even compared to the Zebralight models with an "F" in their name, it produces a more even beam of light. 

It doesn't really matter which version you get. The more expensive "Pro"-Versions stay in regulation longer in Turbo-mode (the other modes are the same) and have additional firefly-modes (not needed for running). There are different color temperatures available. I would reccomend getting the normal, "warm" version (in reality it's a 4000K neutral white). There is also a new variant of the light with Cree XHP-50 that is much brighter in the highest mode. If you often need the light for 45min oder less, the XHP-50 version would be a nice option. 

All Wizard lights use single 18650 batteries. They have over-discharge protection, so you can use unprotected batteries (cheaper than protected ones and you can get specific, high-quality cells). They all have an overtemperature protection. They will never get too hot.

The normal Wizards with Cree XM-L2/XP-L LEDs produce 600-900 otf Lumens in the highest mode, the new ones with Cree XHP-50 around 2000 (*EDIT:* 1600) otf lumens.

*EDIT:*
In general I would recommend getting a light that uses one 18650 battery instead a light with AA- oder even AAA-batteries. You get much more Energy in a still rather compact form factor. If you get the right type of cell it will also work much better in the winter, when it's cold outside.

I would also generally recommend to use a rather bright setting if you are a faster runner, are older with vision getting worse, run on difficult trails or just want to feel safer. I would never sacrifice my own safety because someone else thinks they have better eyes and decide to use a dim light. Too bad for them! But that's just my opinion.
Also: who wants to waste time waiting for their eyes to adapt to the darkness of a sub-100 lumen light?


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## Azhobo (Aug 22, 2016)

The zebralights are still the lightest relative to their batteries. I use the floody, warm 18650 size. The h600f. The 602s don't reach far enough for me unless I run them on full power. The AA versions are nice too and nearly weightless but l miss the lumens and run time of the 18650. Use the top strap on the harness.


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## sidecross (Aug 22, 2016)

I hope you run alone and with no others running towards you.


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## scs (Aug 22, 2016)

The_Driver said:


> The Armytek Wizard is very, very good for running. Is has a special TIR-lens, thats gives it a perfectly smooth, but somewhat focused floodbeam. Many cheap lights have the "bouncing spot effect" and cause tunnel vision. With the Armytek this effect is greatly reduced. This lens is the reason why I think they are better for running than the headlamps from Zebralight (which use reflectors, sometimes together with a diffused lens).
> 
> It doesn't really matter which version you get. The more expensive "Pro"-Versions stay in regulation longer in Turbo-mode (the other modes are the same) and have additional firefly-modes (not needed for running). There are different color temperatures available. I would reccomend getting the normal, "warm" version (in realiyt it's a 4000K neutral white). There is also a new variant of the light with Cree XHP-50 that is much brighter in the highest mode. If you often need the light for 45min oder less, the XHP-50 version would be a nice option.
> 
> ...



At most 1600 otf as estimated by some, the xhp version.
also, it gets hot, 140 F.
perhaps if the ambient air is cool enough, and one runs fast enough, it stays cooler.


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## LeanBurn (Aug 22, 2016)

Ever considered the Fenix HL10 ?


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## Bob_McBob (Aug 22, 2016)

sidecross said:


> I hope you run alone and with no others running towards you.



What is the alternative if it's too dark to run without a light?


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## sidecross (Aug 22, 2016)

Bob_McBob said:


> What is the alternative if it's too dark to run without a light?


Any light where you can control the direction of the light without moving your head.

Any light at head height, this would also include people on bicycles, should use care when using 1000 lumen lights that could shine directly in the eyes of others. I am surprised that this needs to be even explained on a forum like this.


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## Azhobo (Aug 22, 2016)

Here's a post with a good comparison of zebra and armytec head lamps. Nice beamshots. I'd recommend 300 plus lumens in a floody lamp for trail running, 500 plus for a pure flood. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...mytek-Wizard-V3-(XP-L-)-vs-Zebralight-H600-Fw


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## Azhobo (Aug 22, 2016)

If your worried about it, you can wear any of these lights as a belt.


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## Tre_Asay (Aug 22, 2016)

How fast are you running to need 300 lumens? I suppose if you don't bother looking at the ground tripping is a concern. IME >50 lumens of somwhat directed light is plenty, even less if it is high CRI.


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## Azhobo (Aug 22, 2016)

Between 7 and 8 minute miles. I get your point though. A full moon is enough to run with depending on where you are. My lights is usually around 100 lumens. With 300 I can tell the difference between a javelina and a mountain lion at a more relaxing distance. Also 300 is way better while biking. I've never owned a light that put out to much light.


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## Tre_Asay (Aug 22, 2016)

I get your point, I ran and hiked a lot in a small wilderness area in California and at one point I stepped on a large rattle snake. I learned to keep my eyes on the ground nearby and only look at a distance for short times.
Maybe for running a floody light for just a few feet and a more powerful thrower for looking down the trail would work.


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## Azhobo (Aug 22, 2016)

I had one bounce his nose of my bare calve 15 years ago(no bite). To this day, I'm fixated on that bush every time I run by it.


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## stephenk (Aug 22, 2016)

The Fenix HL10 is my favourite light for running (<6km) I've reviewed it in this forum. Very lightweight, bright enough to see ahead, but not too bright to blind motorists, decent tint and CRI, floody beam, and comfortable to wear.


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## Lumenwolf (Aug 22, 2016)

Are there any decent rechargeable variants that come with a battery?


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## livingsurvival (Aug 22, 2016)

There are several lights such as the black diamond spot or thrunite th20 that have variable brightness so you can set it at whatever you like. keep in mind brighter more tactical style headlamps from fenix, nitecore or thrunite will have less runtime and typically be heavier on the head. Petzl and Black Diamond make very light headlamps that may be better suited for running.


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## Lumenwolf (Aug 22, 2016)

livingsurvival said:


> There are several lights such as the black diamond spot or thrunite th20 that have variable brightness so you can set it at whatever you like. keep in mind brighter more tactical style headlamps from fenix, nitecore or thrunite will have less runtime and typically be heavier on the head. Petzl and Black Diamond make very light headlamps that may be better suited for running.



Thank you for the advice


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## sidecross (Aug 22, 2016)

Tre_Asay said:


> I get your point, I ran and hiked a lot in a small wilderness area in California and at one point I stepped on a large rattle snake. I learned to keep my eyes on the ground nearby and only look at a distance for short times.
> Maybe for running a floody light for just a few feet and a more powerful thrower for looking down the trail would work.


+1


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## Azhobo (Aug 22, 2016)

The zebralight AA is brighter, lighter, longer running and sits closer to head than the other lights mentioned. And can be had in hi-cri with your choice of tint. They are more expensive and sometimes out of stock. For running, I would make weight and distance from your head a priority as those factors will effect comfort.


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## StorminMatt (Aug 23, 2016)

Azhobo said:


> The zebralight AA is brighter, lighter, longer running and sits closer to head than the other lights mentioned. And can be had in hi-cri with your choice of tint.



The high CRI AA headlamps can only be had as mules. And because they use the Luxeon T emitters, they are significantly less bright than the H52 models. If you need to see more than a few feet away AND want high CRI, you are better off with the high CRI 18650 headlamps. They use the Easywhite XM-L2, and produce respectable amounts of light (around 800 lumens). Runtime is also better than the AA headlamps, particularly at higher output levels.


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## Azhobo (Aug 23, 2016)

You got that right. 18650 is the only way to go. It's only a 1 oz. Weight penalty. I'd love to see a better headlamp than a ZL 18650. But for now the only thing better is 2 of them stacked on top of each other. My h52 sits in my glovebox. And they make good present s.


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## GeoBruin (Aug 23, 2016)

I run a lot and most of it at night, on the trails. It's just how my work schedule plays out. Also, I'm an occasional adventure racer. I've worn many different Petzl and Black diamond 3xAAA headlamps and some of the higher power models with an external battery pack. 

I've since discovered the Zebralight headlamps and I will never look back.

Even before they came with top straps I would hack together 2 straps from two different lights to make my own and let me tell you, with a top strap in place, they are rock solid and perfect for running. 

The old h51 models with the XPG were just a little too throwy but the new XML based models are perfect for lighting up the path in front of you while still giving you some reach. And of course the variation of tint options is awesome. I prefer warm for trail running. 

The run time on the AA models are perfectly sufficient for almost any run I do because I'm not running it on full blast. However, I've always opted for an 18650 model for adventure races that go through the night. 

I'll end by saying that I'm getting married in three weeks and I just ordered 7 H52w headlamps as gifts for my groomsmen. 

Cheers!


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## Azhobo (Aug 23, 2016)

Congratulations! That and kids(1 year ago) is what ended my racing, competitive shooting and silly flashlight/gun buying. You've said what I tried to about the ZL head lamps. Now go make some babies and stop waisting your time online.


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## terjee (Aug 23, 2016)

Azhobo said:


> Now go make some babies and stop waisting your time online.



Arguably off topic, but still; This might be the best online-advice given in the history of online-advices. Well done!


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## Woods Walker (Aug 24, 2016)

I trail night run at least 4 times a week. I will use about anything but often go with the AT Tiara, Fenix HL30 or HL50. During winter I take the Fenix HP12 as can keep the battery warm under my hat. The Tiara has a great beam but can slip on occasion in the holder (start pointing down) during sprinting though it's not bad enough that I won't use it as often jog rather than sprint.

Here is a 21+ mile night trail run I did a few months ago.


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## Szemhazai (Aug 24, 2016)

In my humble opinion - all 18650 integrated lamps are a crappy headlamps for running - they are too front heavy and they are bouncing all the time. For walking fine - but not for running.


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## geokite (Aug 25, 2016)

Szemhazai said:


> In my humble opinion - all 18650 integrated lamps are a crappy headlamps for running - they are too front heavy and they are bouncing all the time. For walking fine - but not for running.


Agreed. I have a H52fw on the front and a H502r on the back, with a top strap. Great for running around town. 

For trails I prefer ZL H502 on the back of each hand. No bounce at all. 

Steve


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## Woods Walker (Aug 25, 2016)

Don't underestimate 2XAA for night jogging. The Fenix HL30 can do Around 50 lumens for at least 10+ hours I think. Hay lets look at tonight's trail run!

I walked around 3 or so miles during the day. Then came 9 PM and hit the trail. Got gas first so took this photo of my kit using my phone.


Running pack.








This trail is wide and will cross roads etc so wore the reflective vest. The lights are a Fenix HL30 headlamp and Armytek A1 flashlight. Planning on at least 2.5 hours running.








At the trail head.








I like the older Fenix HL30 as it has a strap which goes over the top of the head. I don't think the newer model does. It uses a XP-G1 CW. A great deal of flood light yea there is a hot spot which offers a bit of throw. Lights up the entire width of most dirt roads. Punchy flood and it's nearly prefect for this use. The newer one has the same optic. Also the headlamp remains in place when jogging or even sprinting.














I probably jogged 11.5 miles as the last 3 bars represent the entire night outing. Only stopped to take a wiz. Another pro to night jogging mostly off road. I did see a camp fire on a lower connecting trail.








Around 14 miles total for the day.


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## Boko (Aug 25, 2016)

Are you prepared to consider one of the head torches that uses an external battery pack you can put in a pocket or bumbag? If so, the bit that goes on your head can be really small and light. I have a Silva Trail Speed Elite, and the weight on the head is negligible. It's super-bright even on the low setting and its "Intelligent light" combined flood and throw is great for off-road running. Mind you., I'm still not sure that hand-held torches aren't better for running, but that's another thread.
Happy running!


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## Azhobo (Aug 28, 2016)

Thanks to those who mentioned using your light on the back of your hand. I've been messing with it for two nights and I can't believe I hadn't thought of it or tried it before. I find it helps with depth perception on the trail. I've actually dedicated an old zebralight to this set up. Wearing both is great but it seems excessive. Also works really well with a side arm on either hand.


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## lumanir (Sep 2, 2016)

Really like the Black Diamond lamp - _*link removed by Greta_ hold well on the head, easily adjustable.
But I really like the 2 side LEDs for peripheral vision.
Plus just a click on the top button to switch from distance to proximity lighting.
The full light is very bright


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## xcandrew (Sep 12, 2016)

Tre_Asay said:


> How fast are you runnhttp://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=49490144ing to need 300 lumens? I suppose if you don't bother looking at the ground tripping is a concern. IME >50 lumens of somwhat directed light is plenty, even less if it is high CRI.



300 lumens is not really enough for fast running if you are using a beam that is broad enough to not have tunnel vision. That's about what I have on my Gemini Duo at my low setting (20%), which is good for easy running on trails. 

Fast running at night for me includes night orienteering and going for Strava downhill segment CRs at night on trails. Last week I did 2.3 miles averaging 4:57 per mile pace (about 3:05 per km) on a rutted trail with some rocks to avoid and some switchbacks. My top speed on that run was 3:52 per mile (2:24 min per km).

Last night, I started a long trail downhill at sunset and didn't turn on my headlamp, but I should have, because I took a tumble in a dark corner as it got darker near the bottom. I did 4 miles at 5:07 per mile pace average, with 2.8 miles of it at 4:47 per mile (3:00 per km) average. My top speed was 3:26 per mile (2:08 per km, 17.4 mph, 28 kph).

So a fast runner goes basically mountain biking speed at the top end. That's why I use a bike light with 1200+ lumens. If you look up night orienteering on youtube, you'll see 1000+ lumen headlamps are common for fast running in the woods at night. I haven't tried single 18650 lights because they don't have the runtime I need, and the single unit ones look too heavy in front.

I like the headlamp high on my head, so I adjust the straps to hold the light as high as possible. The Duo has the mount on the bottom, so it sits a bit higher than similar lights like the Lupine Piko or, worse, lights like Zebralights that people tend to wear low on the forehead. That keeps the light from lighting up my nose, and the extra separation of the light from my eyes helps retain definition of ground features.


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## roger-roger (Sep 12, 2016)

xcandrew said:


> I like the headlamp high on my head, so I adjust the straps to hold the light as high as possible. The Duo has the mount on the bottom, so it sits a bit higher than similar lights like the Lupine Piko or, worse, lights like Zebralights that people tend to wear low on the forehead. That keeps the light from lighting up my nose, and the extra separation of the light from my eyes helps retain definition of ground features.




What battery are you using, and are you using the head strap battery mount?


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## WigglyTheGreat (Sep 12, 2016)

Xcandrew, do you ever use a waist mounted light along with your headlight or hand held light. Just wondering if that would help you out seeing the terrain better with light above and below the eye level? 

I have been out trail running with two gloworm x2 lights which are both 1200+ lumens similar to the gemini duo. I like one light waist mounted and one on the head. I don't need extended runtimes for what I mostly do now so I switched to two neutral white zebralights with single 18650s and I like that combo. The highest level I would use is 330 lumen, but your night orienteering is more extreme than what I do so I can see your need to run higher levels and need extended runtimes.


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## xcandrew (Sep 13, 2016)

roger-roger said:


> What battery are you using, and are you using the head strap battery mount?



2-cell Gemini attached to the back of the head strap. I used to use an extension to keep the battery in a warm pocket in the winter, but it's more convenient to just keep the battery on the head strap. It is more lighter and more stable on the head with the battery off the head strap, but I can get it comfortable either way.



WigglyTheGreat said:


> Xcandrew, do you ever use a waist mounted light along with your headlight or hand held light. Just wondering if that would help you out seeing the terrain better with light above and below the eye level?
> 
> I have been out trail running with two gloworm x2 lights which are both 1200+ lumens similar to the gemini duo. I like one light waist mounted and one on the head. I don't need extended runtimes for what I mostly do now so I switched to two neutral white zebralights with single 18650s and I like that combo. The highest level I would use is 330 lumen, but your night orienteering is more extreme than what I do so I can see your need to run higher levels and need extended runtimes.



I've held my headlamps in my hand to see what a lower mount looks like, and I don't like it on trails. Maybe it's better than totally flat light, but I find the long shadows distracting and kind of hard to interpret at speed. You usually don't have shadows on the ground like that running in daylight, and when you do, it's worse - think about running a rock garden or just a rocky trail with deep shadows near sunset.

I don't use full output all the time on my Duo when running, just in situations where it is nice:
- high speed, such as my fast downhills on trails - I've done time trails in daylight and at night on the same trails, and I go just as fast at night with full output;
- needing to see far and wide for route finding, looking for orienteering controls, or watching out for moose/bears/porcupine/other wildlife;
- dealing with dark conditions: think about driving in the rain at night and sometimes barely being about to see the road; same thing for trails in the rain at night or other conditions that make 1200+ lumens look like 200 lumens and 200 lumens only adequate at a walk;
- sometimes I do get a mild flat light sensation at low and medium on my Duo; it's not often a problem, but I can overcome that by readjusting the position of my light higher or pointed more up the trail vs pointed closer to my feet - or I can just turn it all the way up and that solves the problem by shear candlepower. The new Duos use neutral white LEDs that might provide color definition improvements, though my 3-year old version already looks fairly neutral to me.

Of course not everyone needs a really bright light for night running. I used to get by with my Princeton Tec Eos with reflector and LED mod with 100 lumens. With a good beam profile, you can get by with less light. But there was no way I would have been able to run really fast on a dark trail. My girlfriend is happy with her new Petzl Reactik+, and I know a lot of runners like the Petzl Nao.


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## WigglyTheGreat (Sep 13, 2016)

I plan to send my gloworm x2 lights in for neutral whites upgrade that cost $25 each last time I looked. I use them for cyling too and the battery packs are in my camelback. For freezing temps the pack can go inside a coat to keep it warner as the cold really saps runtimes.

The way I run my Zebralights is I run the waist mounted H602w all flood light at 1/3-1/2 Of the power of my h600w headlamp. That way the flood waist light doesn't overpower the headlamp. The immediate area close to your feet is well lit without overpowering with shadows and the headlamp is the main workhorse while the waist light is just a fill in helper. Just something to consider.


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## roger-roger (Sep 14, 2016)

WigglyTheGreat said:


> I plan to send my gloworm x2 lights in for neutral whites upgrade that cost $25 each last time I looked. I use them for cyling too and the battery packs are in my camelback. For freezing temps the pack can go inside a coat to keep it warner as the cold really saps runtimes.
> 
> The way I run my Zebralights is I run the waist mounted H602w all flood light at 1/3-1/2 Of the power of my h600w headlamp. That way the flood waist light doesn't overpower the headlamp. The immediate area close to your feet is well lit without overpowering with shadows and the headlamp is the main workhorse while the waist light is just a fill in helper. Just something to consider.




Turns out I had a buried and forgotten Glowworm X1 V1 stashed away. It has an unidentified extra optic (for a 2nd light, night helmet use) and headband, and the alloy non-quick release mount. The mount doesn't fit the headband, unless I'm supposed to remove the neoprene backing. 

A search turned this up re: the neutral white upgrade, but it doesn't appear active.

http://www.action-led-lights.com/products/change-x2-or-xs-from-cool-white-to-neutral-white-leds


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## WigglyTheGreat (Sep 15, 2016)

Roger-roger, it sound like you have the same style mount that is on my gloworm x2. Maybe on yours they got carried away with neoprene backing and needs to be cut down or slots cut into it. Yes actionled is where they perform the neutral white upgrade, but I haven't looked into it for a while so I have to give them a shout to see if they still do that.


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## marsalla (Sep 19, 2016)

It depends on where you are running and how fast. When I am running just on the street I will use my zebra aa light in neutral white: works well. My only complaint is that you cant use turbo mode very long but overall it is safe enough. The other day I was running on a desert trail with total darkness and used my skilhunt H03 (my favorite light I might add). I put it on high level 2 which is about 365 lumens (more then enough to safely run on dark trail). The headlamp has TIR optic just like armytek for less then half the price. BTW, I also own armytek wizzard and never use it after buying the skilhunt. It is all just personal preference but make sure you have enough light to see any potholes


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## WigglyTheGreat (Sep 21, 2016)

Roger-Roger just for your info Action-Led still does the upgrade to neutral white emitters for $20 so I went ahead and paid for my two gloworm x2 lights to be changed over. Jim at Actionled has been helpful and I'm boxing up the lights now to send in. My main use for these lights will be cycling, but in the freezing Winter I would rather use the Gloworm x2 as my main headlamp with the external battery pack that I can place under some clothing to keep the pack warmer. Plus with 2 and 4 cell 18650 battery packs runtimes won't be an issue. The lighthead of the Gloworm is about 80 grams for the versions I have and with no battery on the head, the weight of these lights is very comfortable. Gloworm offers different optics for flood or throw which is nice so you can tune the beam to your liking. Anyway I should be set with neutral white headlamps for a while.


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## pulstar (Sep 21, 2016)

What keeps me from buying 18650 based light for running are the headbands. Even my 1AA Zebralight H51 bounced quite hard with original one. Niteize nylon headband fixed that . But 18650 light with only one hadband... I really doubt it will stay in place.


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## roger-roger (Sep 21, 2016)

pulstar said:


> What keeps me from buying 18650 based light for running are the headbands. Even my 1AA Zebralight H51 bounced quite hard with original one. Niteize nylon headband fixed that . But 18650 light with only one hadband... I really doubt it will stay in place.




Looking at the ZL website, it shows a band like the one that came with my H32Fw, w/o center band.

For their 18650 lights, the headband comes with a center band that loops through the rubber light holder. I *haven't* tried that one yet, but taping five quarters to the end of my H32, the OEM band for that light is definitely inadequate for the task.


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## WigglyTheGreat (Sep 22, 2016)

Simply rerouting the zebralight headband makes it very stable. It has been discussed on the forums before. The idea is to transfer the weight of the light to the band and take it off of the flimsy silicone holder. It works great for my 52fw, H600w, and H603w. No more bouncy bounce and more comfortable too. Just run the band right through the eye openings along with the light itself. The light rests right on the band and supports the light directly. Thats the first thing I do when I get a new Zebralight headlamp. It took me all of 60 seconds to do on my recently purchased H52fw.

Anyway the H52fw single aa headlamp makes an awesome running light if you are ok with the brightness and runtimes. I can get by just fine with it, but if I'm out for a longer time I usually go for the 18650 models. As always I have a minimum of 2 lights with me when I go out, but usually 3.


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## roger-roger (Sep 22, 2016)

WigglyTheGreat, thanks for the follow up on the Action-LED tint mods for Glowworm lights. What a great deal, from a great store.


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## Vorlon (Sep 24, 2016)

My H600Fw mk2 flood is the best companion for my running.


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