# ArmyTek Viking 2.5 (XM-L2 U2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Regular and Pro Review: RUNTIMES+



## selfbuilt (Jul 12, 2013)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *



















Welcome to my first review of the Viking series from ArmyTek. This series is very similar to the concurrent Predator models, only with XM-L2 emitters (for higher max output, and a less "throwy" beam). In this review, I will compare the Regular and Pro versions of the Vikings. Please see my companion review of the latest versions of the Predator models (v2.5 with XP-G2 emitters), published separately.

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results. Specs have been highly condensed from ArmyTek website and manuals (and where inconsistencies arise, I have presented what is included in the printed manuals).

*Common Specs:*

LED: XM-L2 U2 Cool White
Comfortable beam pattern
Constant brightness for whole operation time
Powered by one 18650 Li-Ion or two CR123A/R123 batteries
Ultra-transparent and tempered glass with anti-reflective and lens coating, normally used in photo equipment only.
Angle of the light spot: 10 degrees, angle of the light spill: 40 degrees.
Removable stainless steel clip, functional and easy to use.
The ability to use batteries with a flat contact.
Tailcap lockout.
Impact-resistant bezels - steel bezels are covered by titanium compounds with a hardness of 2000-3000HV.
Body cover: matte, anodized. Hardness: 350-400HV. Resistant to scratches and impacts.
Body material: aviation-grade aluminum T6061-T6.
Water resistance standard: IPX-8 (the highest)
Dimensions: Length: 6.1 in, Body diameter: 1 in, Head diameter: 1.56 in, Weight (without batteries): 5.82 oz
*Viking v2.5*

Output levels and runtimes: 1010 lm (1h 40min), 200 lm (8h), 85 lm (20h), 8 lm (155h)
Beam distance up to 300 meters
Easy manipulation of modes
New-generation electronic driver with STEP runtime technology. 
MSRP: ~$90
*Viking Pro v2.5*

Output levels and runtimes: 850 lm (2h 40min), 200 lm (7h), 70 lm (20h), 6 lm (155h)
Beam distance up to 250 meters
Fully programmable settings
Current stabilization types are entirely changeable through the user menu: full stabilization (FULL), simple semi-stabilization (SEMI), stepped stabilization (STEP).
Electronic driver is placed in a special aluminum capsule and has been completely covered with a durable compound. This actually protects it from both the environment and from mechanical damage.
Lowest Firefly mode of 0.1 lumens, working for 130 days with ONE 18650 Li-Ion battery.
S-Tek™ driver constantly monitors the temperature of LED and the electronic circuit and will prevent the LED overheating in extreme environments.
Supports batteries without protection board (PCB), for example: LiFePO4 or Li-Ion.
The automemorization of the last used mode can be turned on or off.
Has the ability to save the user's individual settings in the Custom preset.
Has the ability to reset of all settings of the flashlight to those built-in by the manufacturer (Military or Outdoor presets) or to the user's saved preset (Custom).
MSRP: ~$110














Packaging is common for both versions - a typical carboard box, with ArmyTek logos and graphic design on it. Inside, the light comes packaged between two pieces of packing plastic-styrofoam, with a good quality holster with closing flap, wrist lanyard, spare o-rings, tail switch boot replacement cover, manual and product insert/warranty card. 










From left to right: AW Protected 18650; Armytek Predator Pro v2.5, Predator v2.5, Viking Pro v2.5, Viking v2.5, CR123A.





From left to right: AW Protected 18650; Armytek Viking Pro, Viking; Eagletac G25C2-II; Olight M22X; Nitecore SRT7. 

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*ArmyTek Viking V2.5:* Weight: 159.8g, Length 153mm, Width (bezel): 39.5mm
*ArmyTek Viking Pro V2.5:* Weight: 161.9g, Length 152mm, Width (bezel): 39.5mm
[*ArmyTek Predator V2.5:* Weight: 161.8g, Length 155mm, Width (bezel): 39.5mm
*ArmyTek Predator Pro v2.5:* Weight: 161.0g, Length 155mm, Width (bezel): 39.5mm
*ArmyTek Predator V1.0:* Weight: 134.6g, Length 153.9mm, Width (bezel): 36.7mm
*Nitecore SRT7*: Weight: 172.4g, Length: 158mm, Width (bezel): 40.0m
*Eagletac G25C2-II* (stock): Weight 141.0g, Length: 150.6mm, Width: 39.6mm
*Eagletac TX25C2*: Weight 93.6g, Length: 120.4mm, Width (bezel): 31.6mm
*Olight M22*: Weight: 148.4g, Length: 144.8mm, Width: 41.2mm (bezel)

Overall dimensions are similar to the concurrent Predator versions, and are consistent for this class.






















As always, ArmyTek build quality is very high, and the lights have a very robust feel. Physically, the models are distinguished primarily by their emitters (XP-G2 on the Predators, XM-L2 on the Vikings) and corresponding reflectors. The Pro versions differ from the regular versions in terms of circuit features and interface. All lights come with a choice of bezel/tail ring colors and crenelation styles. 

The ArmyTek finish is fairly unique in my testing - the bodies of their lights have a very thick matte finish anodizing that feels almost molded (i.e., it is very "grippy"). According to ArmyTek, this coating is much thicker than most lights (i.e., harder anodizing). Although the light lacks knurling, grip is actually quite decent thanks to this unique finish. And there are some ridge detail elements to help further with grip.

Note the grippier finish may show dirt, hand oil, etc, more easily than traditional glossy knurling. There are also few anti-roll features, aside from some cut-outs in the bundled rubber grip ring.

Lettering is very bright and clear, and exceptionally legible. In additional to model information on the body tube and bezel, the voltage range and supported cells are printed right on the light.

Screw threads are thick square-cut (trapezoidal), and anodized at the tail region of the battery tube and in the tailcap (for lock-out).

The tailcap switch is a forward clicky in all lights, with good feel. The spring is thicker and longer than typical on these sorts of lights, with a flat connector piece (so as not to scratch your batteries). The lights cannot tailstand.

There is a small raised contact point in the head, so high capacity flat-top batteries can be used. All my 18650 cells fit in the lights – there is in fact quite a generous amount of cell length space.














The Viking doesn't use the same "throwy" reflector as the Predator series. Instead, they have optimized the Viking reflector to produce a broader hotspot (i.e., a 10 degree hotspot angle now, instead of 5). Armytek informs me that could have made the Viking reflector "throwier", but they opted to produce a clear differentiation from the Predator line. Note that both series have a 40 degree spill angle. 

Both my samples in this series came with smooth reflectors, so some artifacts are possible (I noticed a few on the Vikings). Emitters were all well centered on my samples. There is an anti-glare coating on the lens, which gives the signature ArmyTek green tint. ArmyTek claims this is a higher quality anti-glare coating normally found on photographic equipment.

ArmyTek doesn't supply diffusers, but the Olight M22 diffuser fits fine on all bezel styles (as should most ~40mm diffuser covers). 

*User Interface (UI)*

The bundled manuals are sufficient to explain the basic functioning of the lights. However, the current v2.5 Pro manual lacks a description of the programming interface. :thinking: You will need this if you are going to take advantage of the full feature set. 

Fortunately, you can still download a copy of the old Predator Pro v2.3 instructions. According to ArmyTek, the main difference is in the specified output levels (i.e., refer to your v2.5 manual for the correct ones). Also, the default battery is now the LiFePO4 18650, and FULL stabilization is turned on by default on both lines, for both Military and Outdoor (these terms are all explained below).

I will give some highlights of what to expect below, but you will need to download those earlier instructions to actually configure everything. Note that the Pro light is reasonably straight-forward to use once programmed, but has a sophisticated programming interface (somewhat akin to the HDS/Ra and older Novatac/LiteFlux lights).

In simple terms, either light is turned on/off by the forward tailcap clicky switch (press for momentary on, click for lock on). 

_Regular version_

For the regular version, turning the light on with the head tight against the body gives you Max output.

With the head loosened, you get the choice of three modes accessed in sequence by soft pressing or clicking the tail switch off/on: Middle > Lo > Lower Lo, in a repeating loop. Note that you need to pause ~1 sec between presses or clicks to advance the modes. 

The light does have mode memory for the head-loosened state, and returns to the last mode you had it in (if you leave it off for a few seconds, or click off-on rapidly).

And that's it – no blinky modes on the regular version. :wave:

_Pro version_

For the Pro version, output modes are arranged in what ArmyTek calls two "lines" (i.e. head tight for "First line", and head loosened for "Second line"). Within each of these head states/lines, there are multiple modes that you can switch between. Switching is controlled by twist cycles of the head relative to the body (i.e. loosen/tighten or tighten/loosen to advance modes within each "line"). 

How many modes per line, and what they are, are fully user-programmable. The light comes with two factory pre-set set states, called "Military" and "Outdoor", and you can also set your own saved custom one. Military comes set by default, but you can switch between them in the programming menus.

Military is set with Full regulation, with the First line (head tightened) having three modes, accessed in sequence: “850 lumens” > "6 lumens" > "200 lumens". Second line (head loosened) has two modes: Strobe 15 Hz, and Firefly “1.5 lumens”. Again, you switch between modes by tighten/loosen (second line) or loosen/tighten (first line) head twists in under 1 sec.

I don't have specific lumen settings for the Outdoor mode pre-set, as these aren't detailed in the simple manual that accompanies the light. :shrug: Also, see my actual testing results later in this review to see how these lumen estimates actually measure up.

_Features of the Pro Model_

To start, you can change any of those pre-set output modes to one of three Firefly modes, or anywhere along a 1-100% continuously-variable ramp (with flashes at 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% output over a 40 sec timeframe). In addition to constant output modes, you can select SOS, Beacon or Strobe mode. Within Strobe, you can set the frequency from 1 Hz to 50 Hz (see below for my actual analysis).

You can change the number of pre-set modes in First line from anywhere from 1 to 10 modes, and Second line from 1 to 5 modes (default is 2-3, depending on whether Outdoor or Military defaults are chosen).

You can set the auto mode-memorization feature for each line independently (i.e. remember last mode for both lines, neither, or only one or the other).

You can specify the battery voltage being used (2xCR123A 3V batteries, 1x18650 3.7V Li-ion, 2xRCR 3.7V Li-ion, 1x18650 LifeP04 3.2V). Unprotected batteries can also be used.

But what is truly innovative is the ability to set three different regulation patterns for the light. FULL regulation is as you’d expect – perfectly flat regulation for as long as the battery can handle it, then an immediate drop to off (although in this case to an ultra-low output state, rather than off). SEMI regulation is what you typically find on a number of multi-power lights – the light maintains flat regulation for a while, then drops into direct-drive as the battery power dwindles. STEP regulation has is a similar overall efficiency to SEMI, but shows a step-down pattern of lowering outputs rather than a smooth drop-off. All of these patterns are shown in my runtimes graphs later in this review.

_How to Program the Pro Model Settings_

Again, you are going to have to download the old Predator Pro v2.3 instructions for the time being, if you want to be able to program the light. The manual explains what each of program selection options are.

But I can at least explain the general process. To select a variable output level in the first line, start from head tight and loosen the head for at least 1 sec and wait for the light to switch lines. Once it does, then immediate tighten, and wait again for the line to switch back. When it does, immediately turn off-on at the clicky. All the above has to be done in under 3 secs total, so timing is very tight (i.e. don’t delay on the head twist any longer than necessary to switch lines). It is highly unlikely that you would ever enter the programming state by accident. 

Here is what the light will do, as plotted in estimated lumens (note: this is not my relative output scale, but actual computed lumens):






I show a blow-up insert of the first ~11 secs or, as the Firefly modes are too dim to compare to the continuously variable ramp. 

As you can tell above, you get three Firefly modes in sequence, for about ~3 sec each with a ~1 sec off pause between them. This is followed by continuously-variable ramp from Lo to Max, which takes about 40 secs in total (with flashes at 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% output). Once Max output is reached, the light restarts at lowest Firefly and cycles through again. Make your selection by a loosen-tighten head switch.

The continuously-variable ramp is relatively visually-linear to the eye, and the quarter percent flashes are helpful to calibrate your relative setting. But you will have to be quick to select any of the truly low outputs. Note that the lowest non-Firefly level that I was able to capture off the contrinuous ramp was ~50 estimated lumens. 

To enter the general programming menus, you start in the second line modes. Do the same as the first line output selection above, only starting with the head loosened (i.e. tighten, wait 1 sec, loosen, wait 1 sec, click off-on – all under 3 secs in total). Once inside the programming state, you double-click the tailcap to advance through menu levels, and tighten/loosen the head to select the menu entry you want. Menu levels and sub-levels are presented as a series of bright flashes. Please refer to the manual for a description of what each of the menus represent.

Again, the point here is that you will need the full instruction sheet to be able to re-program the light. You really can't do it without the proper manual in front of you. But once programmed the way you want, the light is straight-forward to use (as described at the top of this section).

*Video*: 

For information on both the Predator and Viking series lights, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

*PWM*

Light has no evidence of PWM on any mode, leading me to believe it is current-controlled. :thumbsup:
_
*UPDATE JULY 13, 2013*: Actually, there is a reoccurring signal on the second Firefly mode (but not the first or third) of both the Viking Pro and Predator Pro. Unfortunately, the light intensity is too low for my oscilloscope sensor to detect, but I can measure the frequency by freeze-frame photography: it is 180 Hz on both lights. Without an oscilloscope trace to examine, I am unable to ascertain whether or not this is actual PWM. But regardless, this frequency of "flicker" is detectable by eye._

*Strobe/Beacon*

There is no strobe mode on the regular series model – it is only the Pro version that supports blinking modes.

The default strobe on the Pro is rated as 15 Hz:






Which, as you can see, seems pretty accurate according to my oscilloscope. 

According to the full manual, you can set the strobe frequency anywhere from 1 to 50 Hz. Here's what I managed to set as the lowest and highest strobes:










And again, pretty good concordance with my oscilloscope. :thumbsup:

Note that the original Predator claimed this same 1-50 Hz range as well – but the strobe frequency changed so quickly (i.e., at an accelerating rate) it was next to impossible to select the really high modes. I am happy to report the new Pro models provide a slower acceleration rate. You now have ~28 secs to select your strobe frequency, although you have less than ~8 secs to choose anything in the 20-50 Hz range. Still, this is much better than the original Predator, when you had ~1 sec to select anything in this range.

Here are some additional strobe modes that I captured, after ~6 secs and ~23 secs:










A minor point for you techno-geeks: as with the original Predator, the strobe pulse duration (duty cycle) does not stay entirely consistent across the full range of frequencies. A typical strobe mode has a 50:50 on/off cycle. But starting at the >30Hz frequencies on the Pro version, the on-pulse duration gradually increases to ~60% by the max 54 Hz (i.e., 60:40 cycle). That is more consistent than the original predator though, which was already at ~65% by 30Hz. None of this matters in terms of how disorienting the strobe is, but I thought I'd point it out. :wave: 

As an aside, I don't find 54 Hz strobe very "disorienting" … it's almost like a really bad PWM rate at that level. 

Beacon mode:

Beacon mode was 1 flash every 7.5 secs in my testing. 

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences (but there may still be some variation).

Let's start with a comparison of the Predator and Predator Pro against the Viking and Viking Pro.





























































To show how you the Viking Pro compares against the competition, here are some comparisons to recent XM-L2 lights in my collection.





























































The new Viking v2.5 XM-L2 models from ArmyTek have a narrower spillbeam width than most other recent XM-L2 lights I've tested. Throw is pretty reasonable for the class, but it is not quite as high as some of the relatively throwy recent XM-L2 lights in this size class.

_Outdoor Beamshots_

For outdoor beamshots, these are done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground). FYI, any "streaks" you see across the images are bug-trails. Flying insects are often attracted to the bright lights, and their flight trails get captured as swirly streaks due to the long exposure time.  Also, ignore any tint differences below – they are mainly due to the automatic white balance setting on the camera.

Again, let's start with a comparison of the Predator and Viking classes. For outdoor shots, I am only showing the Pro versions of the Predator and Viking.










ArmyTek intends for the Predator and Viking models to be used by different groups. As you can tell from the beamshots above, the beam patterns at a distance are clearly very different.

Now, let's see how the Viking Pro compares to some recent relatively throwy XM-L2 lights in my collection.






The Viking Pro is clearly not as throwy as some of the competition in this size class. ArmyTek has indeed succeeded in creating a more general purpose beam for the Viking model.

When I get the chance to do additional beamshots, I'll bring along the brighter regular Viking to compare, and update this review afterwards. 

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).














As expected, The Predator models have less output – but more throw – than the Viking models. 

Also as expected, the regular Viking had higher output than the Pro version (note the specs of "1010 LED lumens" for the Pro vs. "850 LED lumens" for the Regular version). FYI, "LED lumens" typically refer to theoretical max output of the emitter for a given drive level, and do not take into account actual losses due to the circuit, heat build-up in the emitter, reflector and lens effects, etc. All told, these can easily cut ~25-30% off the theoretical output levels. Note that ANSI FL-1 testing standard requires actual measurement of output "out the front", between 30-120 secs after activation. As such, my ANSI FL-1 lumen estimates of ~770 and ~670 (for Pro and Regular versions respectively) seem quite reasonable.

As you can tell from my direct beam measures, peak intensity throw is slightly less than some other XM-L2-equipped lights in this size class

How do my lumen estimates compare across the various levels?






As you can see, my results are fairly consistent across the board (taking into account my ANSI FL-1 estimated lumens vs ArmyTek's published "LED lumens").

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*

_Note: Unless otherwise stated, all my runtimes below are based on AW 2200mAh 18650 cells._

Ok, let's start with the base Regular model, on different types of cells.






The Regular model uses a "STEP" regulation method, where the light steps down in output by discrete levels, depending on the amount of battery power remaining. This is typically quite efficient (scroll down for comparison runtimes). What you can see above is that on Max, 2xRCR hits an abrupt termination (due to the protection circuits being triggered). But the 2xCR123A and 1x18650 show a very clear step-down pattern.

Let's compare that to the default "FULL" regulation method on the Pro version:






In FULL regulation, the light should abruptly shut-off on all Li-ion sources, without prior step-down. You can see that above quite clearly for the 1x18650 and 2xRCR runtimes. Interestingly, 2xCR123A continues to have a step-down pattern, even when FULL regulation is selected. One general comment here – you can expect a significantly shorter runtime on 1x18650 when FULL regulation is selected.

To demonstrate that, let's compare the various regulation patterns on the Pro model (STEP, SEMI and FULL – see UI section earlier in this review for an explanation of the terms):






As you can see above, SEMI and STEP have generally equivalent runtime – it just comes down to whether or not you like to see discrete steps. I am a bit surprised as how much lower the Max runtime was on FULL, but that may reflect the lower capacity 2200mAh cells used here (i.e., it's possible higher capacity cells may have handled the high drive level better). Personally, I recommend you program the Pro version to STEP or SEMI for maximum runtime (and clearer indication of battery life remaining).

Alright, let's see how the Regular and Pro versions do compared to the competition. To make the runtimes easier to distinguish, the Max modes on the Pro version were done in FULL and SEMI regulation (in contrast the typical STEP of the Regular versions).




















Note also that I left the Pro version on FULL stabilization for the Med mode runtime. Based on my previous experience, there typically isn't much of a runtime difference between stabilization methods at the sub-maximal drive levels. 

The performance of the Viking and Viking Pro are quite reasonable for the class. :wave:

*Potential Issues*

Both Regular and Pro versions are easy to use in their default state. However (and as with all lights with complex programming modes), you will need to refer to the manual if you want to re-program any of the features or output levels of the Pro version. 

The programming modes can be a bit tricky to navigate (i.e. requires multiple twists and clicks). You will need to make sure you keep the head threads clean.

The heavy thickness anodizing is interesting, and provides for reasonably good grip (i.e., I found these lights at least as good as most models with light-to-medium aggressiveness knurling). However, this finish shows up dust, dirt and fingerprint oils more easily than most lights.

The Viking models are somewhat less "throwy" than most other XM-L2 lights with similarly sized heads. This is intentional on ArmyTek's part, as the Vikings are designed to be general purpose lights. Those looking for more throw should check out my Predator series review. 

Note that the spillbeam width is narrower on these lights than most of the competition. That said, most ~40mm size diffuser covers should fit and work on these lights (e.g., the Olight M22 diffuser works fine).

*Preliminary Observations*

ArmyTek made quite a splash here with the launch of their inaugural light – the Predator V1.0 – over two years ago. The Vikings build on that original design and interface, but with a less "throwy" beam pattern.

As always, I find the ArmyTek build to be very robust – these are solid lights to handle. The trademark thick matte anodizing finish is very distinctive, and gives the lights surprisingly decent grip. The lens has a high-quality anti-glare coating, and the rubber grip rings and titanium-coated steel bezel rings and clip help to round out the package.

Of course, what has really distinguished ArmyTek lights are their sophisticated programming interfaces. In this latest iteration of the Viking series, they have opted for two steams – a Regular version (with a simplified clicky-controlled interface), and the Pro version (with the traditional programmable interface). Note that you don't need to actually program the Pro version to use it – it comes with a set of defaults (using a head-twist interface) that works easily, right out of the box.

But if you like to have a full range of control over the light, the Pro version's sophisticated interface lets you set as many pre-set levels as you like (anywhere from 2-15), with an extremely wide range of constant outputs and special modes available (e.g., three Firefly modes, strobe frequencies from 1 to 50+Hz, etc.). Probably the most unique feature of ArmyTek is the choice of three stabilization (regulation) patterns. oo: Check out the UI and Runtimes section of the review for more information here.

I am glad to see that output/runtime performance is right on par with other decent current-controlled lights of this XM-L2 class. :thumbsup:

In terms of beam pattern, the Viking models are a departure for ArmyTek. The Predator series is designed for max centre-beam throw (i.e., with their XP-G2 emitters and focused reflectors). The reflector used in the Viking models is specifically designed to produce a broader hotspot. This means that you may find the Vikings less "throwy" than a number of the competing XM-L2 lights in this size class. Please see the beamshots earlier in this review for more info. In any case, many of the ~40mm diffuser covers should work with the Vikings, giving you option of diffuse light if you want it. 

ArmyTek is really trying to give you a clear choice between throw and a broad hotspot (i.e. Predators vs Vikings), and simple or sophisticated interface (i.e., Regular vs Pro versions). With the continual improvement updates to the Predator/Viking lines, there is little to criticize here – I like the subtle build and interface improvements that have been introduced since my original Predator V1.0 review.

I know this has been a rather long review, and there is common text to my companion Predator series review. Hopefully all this will help you decide if an ArmyTek light is right for you, and which model you should choose in that case. :wave:

----

Predator and Viking models provided by ArmyTek for review.


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## 430Scuderia (Jul 12, 2013)

Hi Selfbuilt, Great review as usual. How about a comparison outdoor long distant beam shot of the higher lumen output regular Viking 2.5 XM-L2 vs. Nitecore SRT7? Thanks for all your hard work and effort!


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## selfbuilt (Jul 13, 2013)

430Scuderia said:


> Hi Selfbuilt, Great review as usual. How about a comparison outdoor long distant beam shot of the higher lumen output regular Viking 2.5 XM-L2 vs. Nitecore SRT7? Thanks for all your hard work and effort!


Yes, unfortunately I didn't have it with me when I headed out that evening. I am planning to bring the higher output regular Viking out with me for my next trip, and will compare it to some of my recent other XM-L2 lights. I'll update this thread afterwards. :wave:


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## BeastFlashlight (Aug 12, 2013)

Can the Pro version settings in line 1 be programmed to give you any outputs between 850 and 200 lumens? If you say no then i'll stop banging my head against the wall trying to understand the instructions. I'd like to make line 1 approximately 6 lumens, 100 lumens, 200 lumens, 400 lumens, and 850


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## selfbuilt (Aug 12, 2013)

BeastFlashlight said:


> Can the Pro version settings in line 1 be programmed to give you any outputs between 850 and 200 lumens? If you say no then i'll stop banging my head against the wall trying to understand the instructions. I'd like to make line 1 approximately 6 lumens, 100 lumens, 200 lumens, 400 lumens, and 850


Yes, you can program the Pro model to have any level you want, in either line. Stick with it, you'll get there.


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## lionken07 (Aug 26, 2013)

I have some question for the normal none PRO version viking 2.5. Say I turn it on at turbo I will get 1010 lumens for the first 20 mins or so? what if I turn it off for 15 mins then turn it back on? will I get 1010 lumens again? or is it voltage dependent?


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## selfbuilt (Aug 26, 2013)

lionken07 said:


> I have some question for the normal none PRO version viking 2.5. Say I turn it on at turbo I will get 1010 lumens for the first 20 mins or so? what if I turn it off for 15 mins then turn it back on? will I get 1010 lumens again? or is it voltage dependent?


The light will always attempt to re-start at max output, if the battery voltage supports it. If it doesn't, the light will step down a
an appropriate level.


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## tubed (Aug 29, 2013)

I've been trying to decipher the Pro UI through your text and videos (excellent by the way) but still a bit confused. What i'm looking for is a light where I could have it, essentially, two modes - one turbo and one very low, and be able to switch back and forth with one hand (i.e clicky switch, not a head twist). Is that possible with this programmable light?


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## selfbuilt (Aug 29, 2013)

*Re: ArmyTek Viking 2.5 (XM-L2 U2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Regular and Pro Review: RUNT*

Sorry, no. Mode switching is controlled by head twist on the pro.


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## phantom23 (Aug 29, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> The Viking models are somewhat less "throwy" than most other XM-L2 lights with similarly sized heads. This is intentional on ArmyTek's part, as the Vikings are designed to be general purpose lights. Those looking for more throw should check out my Predator series review.
> 
> Note that the spillbeam width is narrower on these lights than most of the competition. That said, most ~40mm size diffuser covers should fit and work on these lights (e.g., the Olight M22 diffuser works fine).


I think tight spill is a problem. Diffuser is not a solution - you have to buy it, carry with you, put it on and off etc. All that when competition somehow managed to create wider spills. Armytek's intentions failed because tight spill disqualifies Viking as a general purpose light. I had a Predator and I sold it because it was unuseable as a versatile flashlight. Unuseable not because of tight hotspot but tight spill. 40 degrees is just not enough, not even for walking comfortably. So if someone's interested in Viking as general purpose light - buy a diffuser or forget it if you don't want to be disappointed.


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## nick.clendenning (Sep 2, 2013)

Will Panasonic NCR18650B 3.7V 3400mAh Rechargeable Li-ion batteries work with this light. My concern is the fact that the positive terminal on the batteries is recessed and the terminal on the head end of the flashlight is not a spring. I hope they will make contact. Thanks in advance for your time.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 2, 2013)

nick.clendenning said:


> Will Panasonic NCR18650B 3.7V 3400mAh Rechargeable Li-ion batteries work with this light. My concern is the fact that the positive terminal on the batteries is recessed and the terminal on the head end of the flashlight is not a spring. I hope they will make contact. Thanks in advance for your time.


That depends on the brand of cell using the NCR18650B core. My Eagletac 3400mAh (which use this core and have a very small button top) work fine in the Viking models. Any other version would require independent confirmation.


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## tubed (Nov 22, 2013)

This is regarding mode memory when light is turned off. (Regular Viking 2.5, not pro)
I was reading someone else's review and they said that if you leave the light off for more than a few minutes the light reverts to the default medium mode when turning it on.
Do you (or anyone else who has one) know which is correct? If I turn it off in the lowest mode, let some time go by, then turn back on, what mode will it be in?


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## Swedpat (Jan 1, 2014)

Thanks again for another great review! 

Based on my liking of Predator Pro 2.5 and Barracuda I ordered also the Viking Pro 2.5. All of them is in the 4000K warm tint. The body coating is really an excellent part of Armytek, providing a very good hold. The wide hotspot of Viking is a good allround choice. While I find the narrow spill perfect for the pure throwers Predator and Barracuda it could have been a bit wider with Viking. It's not a big issue though. 
At first the programming felt tricky but after a while exercise it works good. I really like this possibility! I removed the strobe on line2 and replaced it with the lowest firefly: that's really super low: I can hold the light direct unto my eye and look in the beam without any discomfort.
At line1 I changed the modes so I have approximately 80, 240 and 600lm(that's max). This is fun and it's possible I will change it again later.


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## Vlk (Jan 27, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, unfortunately I didn't have it with me when I headed out that evening. I am planning to bring the higher output regular Viking out with me for my next trip, and will compare it to some of my recent other XM-L2 lights. I'll update this thread afterwards. :wave:



My Viking Standard developed an interesting problem after couple of months. Immediately after turn on the brightness drops by, say, 10% and stays at this level. This only happens with the head tight max setting. On all kinds of batteries including primaries regardless of the charge. However, it does not happen every time I turn it on but most of the times. Switch okay. I sent it back to China and wait for the replacement. Excellent light aside from that.


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## selfbuilt (Jan 28, 2014)

Vlk said:


> My Viking Standard developed an interesting problem after couple of months. Immediately after turn on the brightness drops by, say, 10% and stays at this level. This only happens with the head tight max setting. On all kinds of batteries including primaries regardless of the charge. However, it does not happen every time I turn it on but most of the times. Switch okay. I sent it back to China and wait for the replacement. Excellent light aside from that.


Interesting, sounds like a premature step-down. Normally, I would suggest checking your batteries, but it sounds like you have already done that. Hopefully you get it back soon!


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## Vlk (Feb 1, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> Interesting, sounds like a premature step-down. Normally, I would suggest checking your batteries, but it sounds like you have already done that. Hopefully you get it back soon!



They will replace the light, and I asked them to send me a warm white instead of cool white.
Yeah, premature step down for no clear reason developed later, not in the beginning.
Just in case anyone is interested I will post some runtimes:
I. To the lowest mode not to flickering:
1. from Max: Panasonic NCR18650A 3100 - 2h.15min. ; AW3100 protected - 2h.10min. ; AW 2000 IMR - 1h.50min. ; SureFire 123A (2) primaries - 1h.33min.
2. from High: 8h.10min.; 8h.00min.; 5h.30min. - Panasonic, AW, SureFire respectively.
3. from Med: 20h.30min.; 20h.30min.; 13h.30min. - Panasonic, AW, SureFire. With three interruptions each for a few hours.
II. From the lowest mode to flickering ( fully charged batteries )
1. Panasonic - 101 hours; SureFire - 85 hours. No interruptions.


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## Vlk (Feb 10, 2014)

Vlk said:


> They will replace the light, and I asked them to send me a warm white instead of cool white.
> Yeah, premature step down for no clear reason developed later, not in the beginning.
> Just in case anyone is interested I will post some runtimes:
> I. To the lowest mode not to flickering:
> ...


 Just got the replacement from China. I asked them to send me Warm not Cool White. Working fine so far. I like this tint, it is warmer than SureFire neutral but not very warm. A bit less powerful and efficient than cool white but that was expected.


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## Swedpat (Feb 11, 2014)

Vlk said:


> Just got the replacement from China. I asked them to send me Warm not Cool White. Working fine so far. I like this tint, it is warmer than SureFire neutral but not very warm. A bit less powerful and efficient than cool white but that was expected.



Nice to hear! Hope the new warm sample will work properly. I am still waiting for the replacement of my warm Predator 2.5.


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## Vlk (Feb 14, 2014)

Swedpat said:


> Nice to hear! Hope the new warm sample will work properly. I am still waiting for the replacement of my warm Predator 2.5.



After couple of days, this one developed the same thing. Only this time, so far, it does not step down when the battery, both Panasonic NCR18650A and SureFire 123A primaries, are fully charged. But when I ran each for 2-5 minutes, turn the light off, then turn it on, the light steps down. Now, I suspect that most people are unaware of it because the step down is relatively small and in most cases you can probably see it only on a white wall.
As for me, I will not send this light for a replacement. It appears to be a design flaw, at least in my interpretation. When the battery is 99% or so full the light should not step down. It sucks.


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## Swedpat (Feb 15, 2014)

Vlk said:


> After couple of days, this one developed the same thing. Only this time, so far, it does not step down when the battery, both Panasonic NCR18650A and SureFire 123A primaries, are fully charged. But when I ran each for 2-5 minutes, turn the light off, then turn it on, the light steps down. Now, I suspect that most people are unaware of it because the step down is relatively small and in most cases you can probably see it only on a white wall.
> As for me, I will not send this light for a replacement. It appears to be a design flaw, at least in my interpretation. When the battery is 99% or so full the light should not step down. It sucks.



Oh, I am sorry for that. Yes, it sucks when an otherwise excellent light doesn't work properly. I have not noticed that with my Viking, though. I use to measure the brightness with lightmeter so I can direct see the percentual difference. I will be watchful, however.
I just received mail that my replacement of Predator 2.5 is shipped from China. Hope it works properly. The problem was that the light flashed three times and then cutted off(became firefly) after some minute even with fully charged 18650(and that with 80% of max), which shall not happen with any of the battery settings of the light. The same battery(batteries, tried two different) directly after worked more than half an hour at max output with Viking without problem.


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## Vlk (Feb 15, 2014)

Swedpat said:


> Oh, I am sorry for that. Yes, it sucks when an otherwise excellent light doesn't work properly. I have not noticed that with my Viking, though. I use to measure the brightness with lightmeter so I can direct see the percentual difference. I will be watchful, however.
> I just received mail that my replacement of Predator 2.5 is shipped from China. Hope it works properly. The problem was that the light flashed three times and then cutted off(became firefly) after some minute even with fully charged 18650(and that with 80% of max), which shall not happen with any of the battery settings of the light. The same battery(batteries, tried two different) directly after worked more than half an hour at max output with Viking without problem.



I understand, you have Pro models, both Predator and Viking, though your problem with the Predator Pro looks at least somewhat similar to my problem with Viking regular.
Being realistic, this small drop in brightness does not really affect the performance. The light is quite poweful, something like 650 true lumens, so if it steps down to, say, 600 lumens and holds it for as long as it can, this is acceptable. Annoying, yes, but acceptable. Well, SureFire EB2, which I don't have, also steps down by about 30% after a few minutes, but you can turn it off and on and have another few minutes on max. This is even worse than what my Viking does, at least for me. SureFire's drop from 500 lumens to about 350 lumens is a very big step-down. HDS lights have it too, but you can disable the step-down and also there is no step-down on momentary-on only on constant-on.


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## Swedpat (Feb 16, 2014)

Vlk said:


> I understand, you have Pro models, both Predator and Viking, though your problem with the Predator Pro looks at least somewhat similar to my problem with Viking regular.
> Being realistic, this small drop in brightness does not really affect the performance. The light is quite poweful, something like 650 true lumens, so if it steps down to, say, 600 lumens and holds it for as long as it can, this is acceptable. Annoying, yes, but acceptable. Well, SureFire EB2, which I don't have, also steps down by about 30% after a few minutes, but you can turn it off and on and have another few minutes on max. This is even worse than what my Viking does, at least for me. SureFire's drop from 500 lumens to about 350 lumens is a very big step-down. HDS lights have it too, but you can disable the step-down and also there is no step-down on momentary-on only on constant-on.



I had the same with Predator PRO at first actually before it hardly didn't work at all at high output. But if you have the regular version the reason has to be that this version lacks FULL stabilization for the entire runtime, but have STEP instead. Or?


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## Vlk (Feb 16, 2014)

Swedpat said:


> I had the same with Predator PRO at first actually before it hardly didn't work at all at high output. But if you have the regular version the reason has to be that this version lacks FULL stabilization for the entire runtime, but have STEP instead. Or?



Yes, of course it has step regulation. But look at the Selfbuild's curve. It appears that there is a very small drop in the very beginning, I probably wouldn't notice such a small step-down.


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## Swedpat (Feb 17, 2014)

Vlk said:


> Yes, of course it has step regulation. But look at the Selfbuild's curve. It appears that there is a very small drop in the very beginning, I probably wouldn't notice such a small step-down.



Ok. I think such a small drop of brightness is acceptable. I have Surefire M6LT Guardian and this light drops around 15% after a minute continious run. 
I had read this fact in a review so I knew it when I ordered it. I can read the drop with the lightmeter but its' very hard to notice with the eyes because the decline is during several seconds. If I never knew it and had no lightmeter I had surely never been aware of it. But yes; it's just a bit annoying to know that the light starts at approximately 950lm and drops to ~800lm. Still I know that a drop I don't notice with my eyes isn't really a problem.


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## Vlk (Feb 17, 2014)

Swedpat said:


> Ok. I think such a small drop of brightness is acceptable. I have Surefire M6LT Guardian and this light drops around 15% after a minute continious run.
> I had read this fact in a review so I knew it when I ordered it. I can read the drop with the lightmeter but its' very hard to notice with the eyes because the decline is during several seconds. If I never knew it and had no lightmeter I had surely never been aware of it. But yes; it's just a bit annoying to know that the light starts at approximately 950lm and drops to ~800lm. Still I know that a drop I don't notice with my eyes isn't really a problem.



I understand why SureFire did this with the Guardian. This is a very powerful distance search and rescue light. It must maintain max brightness for as long as possible. If it doesn't step down soon enough it will drain batteries quickly and also will become very hot, so hot that you wouldn't be able to hold it without gloves. Except perhaps if you use it in winter. Winters are very cold in northern Sweden, aren't they? In fact, I too was considering getting the Guardian. But I don't really need it. 
Let's hope your Predator replacement works fine. I will probably get the Predator too, I like its beam a lot. But I don't like switching modes by twisting the head, so I will most likely get the standard not pro model, though the pro offers an incredible possibilities of customization.


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## Swedpat (Feb 18, 2014)

Vlk said:


> I understand why SureFire did this with the Guardian. This is a very powerful distance search and rescue light. It must maintain max brightness for as long as possible. If it doesn't step down soon enough it will drain batteries quickly and also will become very hot, so hot that you wouldn't be able to hold it without gloves. Except perhaps if you use it in winter. Winters are very cold in northern Sweden, aren't they? In fact, I too was considering getting the Guardian. But I don't really need it.
> Let's hope your Predator replacement works fine. I will probably get the Predator too, I like its beam a lot. But I don't like switching modes by twisting the head, so I will most likely get the standard not pro model, though the pro offers an incredible possibilities of customization.



A normal winter here can be very cold. But this winter is strange so far. Several weeks the temperature has been around and over zero degree celsius. I think february use to be the coldest month of the year: temperatures use to be -20 to -30C, on some places -40C. Yes, I think a high powered LED will be very fine under such a cold conditions.
I have tried Guardian indoors for extended run and the head will be pretty hot after a while. When you mention gloves I can tell that the size of the Guardian combined with the knurled design makes a very good hold even with gloves on.


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## Vlk (Feb 18, 2014)

Swedpat said:


> A normal winter here can be very cold. But this winter is strange so far. Several weeks the temperature has been around and over zero degree celsius. I think february use to be the coldest month of the year: temperatures use to be -20 to -30C, on some places -40C. Yes, I think a high powered LED will be very fine under such a cold conditions.
> I have tried Guardian indoors for extended run and the head will be pretty hot after a while. When you mention gloves I can tell that the size of the Guardian combined with the knurled design makes a very good hold even with gloves on.



I read that because the Arctic is getting warmer the climate in the northern hemisphere is changing. This year the winter is very mild in Northern Scandinavia and very cold here in North America. Also, Western France, England and Ireland get a lot of storms with strong winds and huge waves.
Did you compare your Predator and Guardian outdoors under various weather conditions? Which one did you like more overall? I mean Predator on Max setting, of course. Guardian should be much brighter and have even better throw. Is this true? What about snow, rain and fog?


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## Swedpat (Feb 20, 2014)

Vlk said:


> I read that because the Arctic is getting warmer the climate in the northern hemisphere is changing. This year the winter is very mild in Northern Scandinavia and very cold here in North America. Also, Western France, England and Ireland get a lot of storms with strong winds and huge waves.
> Did you compare your Predator and Guardian outdoors under various weather conditions? Which one did you like more overall? I mean Predator on Max setting, of course. Guardian should be much brighter and have even better throw. Is this true? What about snow, rain and fog?



Yes, this winter is exceptionally mild, something seems to changing with the climate. I can actually not remember any winter in my life with several weeks in row of temperature around and above zero degree celsius, and this at the part of the year which use to be the coldest. I understand we are lucky in Sweden compared to England, though...

I have not yet compared Predator to Guardian outdoors. But I measured the difference of lux at 2m. Guardian outthrows Predator with a slight margin. But the strength of Guardian is the width of the hotspot, it covers many times larger area. I consider Guardian as a very special purpose light; it's a pure distance spotlight with very dim spill while Predator is a thrower with a very bright spill. Therefore I was not interested in the multimode M3LT: this beam character is not suitable(at least in my opinion) for low brightness at short distance(almost no visible spill at all at lower outputs). Here a typhical reflector beam is better.

Overall Predator is a more useful light, and I would choose it before Guardian if I only could have one of them. The advantage with beeing a flashoholic is that I can have both! 

To not totally hijacking the thread I will add that I really love the Viking. The wide hotspot is great at short and mid distance. And I want to say that Viking is pretty impressive at max output. Would work great as a replacement for a car headlight.


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## Vlk (Feb 20, 2014)

Swedpat said:


> Yes, this winter is exceptionally mild, something seems to changing with the climate. I can actually not remember any winter in my life with several weeks in row of temperature around and above zero degree celsius, and this at the part of the year which use to be the coldest. I understand we are lucky in Sweden compared to England, though...
> 
> I have not yet compared Predator to Guardian outdoors. But I measured the difference of lux at 2m. Guardian outthrows Predator with a slight margin. But the strength of Guardian is the width of the hotspot, it covers many times larger area. I consider Guardian as a very special purpose light; it's a pure distance spotlight with very dim spill while Predator is a thrower with a very bright spill. Therefore I was not interested in the multimode M3LT: this beam character is not suitable(at least in my opinion) for low brightness at short distance(almost no visible spill at all at lower outputs). Here a typhical reflector beam is better.
> 
> ...



Yes, Viking is as bright as many cars' low beams, you can drive with it on Max, no problem. In this sense, it would make a perfect light to keep in your car. Not to mention that even standard Viking has three more well-spaced brightness settings.
M3LT-S with the strobe would make sense for me, without strobe I would probably choose Guardian too. But it is big and requires six batteries. Yeah, specialty long distance spotlight.
I actually prefer Predator's beam to Viking's in most cases. My night vision is very good, and generally speaking, I prefer powerful hotspot with good enough spill. And that's Predator. Predator is also much more efficient, I got at least 45 minutes more on Max compared to Viking, both cool white, Panasonic NCR18650A battery.
Sweden is shielded from the open ocean, unlike England, Scotland, France, Portugal and Norway. Let's hope that climate change will not go too far.


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## Swedpat (Feb 21, 2014)

Vlk said:


> M3LT-S with the strobe would make sense for me, without strobe I would probably choose Guardian too. But it is big and requires six batteries. Yeah, specialty long distance spotlight.



I run Guardian with 2x18650 in a holder and that's great. 6xCR123 would be too expensive. Also the cells fit so tight in the CR123 holder that it's practically impossible to remove them without any tool.




Vlk said:


> I actually prefer Predator's beam to Viking's in most cases. My night vision is very good, and generally speaking, I prefer powerful hotspot with good enough spill. And that's Predator.



I can state: while I really like a beam with a wide hotspot at shorter distance, a throwier light is more useful: a throwy light works for as well short and long distance. A less throwy/floody light does not work at long distance. The throwy beam may not be optimal at short distance with the blinding and smaller hotspot but it works. 
If I had to choose between Viking and Predator the Predator would be the choice. I am happy I can have both, though!



Vlk said:


> Predator is also much more efficient, I got at least 45 minutes more on Max compared to Viking, both cool white, Panasonic NCR18650A battery.



Is that really correct? Isn't XM-L more efficient than XP-G? I think Viking and Predator PRO 2.5 models have similar runtimes at max, and Viking has higher output. 
I think the main reason Armytek chosed XP-G(2) for Predator is that the smaller LED provides better throw with same size of reflector as Viking and that despite lower output.


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## selfbuilt (Feb 21, 2014)

Swedpat said:


> Is that really correct? Isn't XM-L more efficient than XP-G? I think Viking and Predator PRO 2.5 models have similar runtimes at max, and Viking has higher output.


When run at most comparable outputs, XM-L and XP-G typically have equivalent runtime (and thus, efficiency). You can certainly see this in the non-max runtimes in this review and my Predator review. At really low outputs (which I don't typically do), things can get a lot more variable though.

The main difference is on max output, where the XM-L is capable of higher output for equivalent runtime (i.e., XM-L is more efficient), as you noted. You can see this in my reviews of the two series as well, as I found nearly identical runtimes on all modes - with higher output on the Max and near-max levels of the Viking series.

Of course, your experiences could vary, depending on output bin and Vf of the indvidual emitters, and other circuit characteristics. But based on the four samples I tested, you should go into a decision presuming there won't be a big difference in runtime (but recognizing individual samples can vary).


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## Vlk (Feb 21, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> When run at most comparable outputs, XM-L and XP-G typically have equivalent runtime (and thus, efficiency). You can certainly see this in the non-max runtimes in this review and my Predator review. At really low outputs (which I don't typically do), things can get a lot more variable though.
> 
> The main difference is on max output, where the XM-L is capable of higher output for equivalent runtime (i.e., XM-L is more efficient), as you noted. You can see this in my reviews of the two series as well, as I found nearly identical runtimes on all modes - with higher output on the Max and near-max levels of the Viking series.
> 
> Of course, your experiences could vary, depending on output bin and Vf of the indvidual emitters, and other circuit characteristics. But based on the four samples I tested, you should go into a decision presuming there won't be a big difference in runtime (but recognizing individual samples can vary).



I was wrong calling the Predator much more efficient because on Max it is about 100 lumens less bright in the beginning. 
But Predator gave me about 3 hours and 5 minutes of light from Max to the the lowest mode, not to flickering, and Viking gave me about 2 hours and 15 minutes. The difference is big. So, speaking realistically, Predator is more "efficient" on Max. I cannot repeat my tests because now I have warm Viking and no Predator yet.


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## Vlk (Feb 21, 2014)

Some Viking warm standard runtimes:

Panasonic NCR18650A.

1. to the lowest setting, not flickering: from Max - 2h 05min.; from High - 8h 00min; from Med - 21h 00min. Times approximate to within 5 minutes. These runtimes are close enough to Viking cool white standard runtimes.
2. From the lowest mode to flickering. Fully charged battery, of course: 70 hours. Now that's disappointing figure. Viking cool white gave me 101 hours. 
Also, on Max Viking warm runs hotter than Viking cool white. Not as hot as with SureFire primaries, I could still hold it in my hand, but quite hot.

SureFire 123A (2).

From Max to the lowest mode - 1h 10 minutes. Pretty bad, much less than Viking cool white. Just as hot as cool white, at some moments I could not hold it in my hand, the rubber grip ring was the only possibility of holding the light in the hand. My hands are quite sensitive to heat though. 
I am now running it on the lowest mode to flickering. If anyone is interested I'll post the figure in couple of days.

So, I think with these lights primaries are really when you need maximum reliability including when it is very cold, in other cases 18650 would work best. I choose to use Panasonic NCR18650A 3100mAh industrial for the reasons of proven reliability and good balance of runtimes on different settings.


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## Swedpat (Feb 22, 2014)

Thanks for the detailed clarifying *Selfbuilt*!

*Vlk*, I have not done such a long runtime tests(read that it's not good for the Li-ion battery to run it really low). My main interest is how long the stable output is on the higher levels. But of course it can be valuable to know even these runtimes you measured. Good job!


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## Vlk (Feb 22, 2014)

Nothing is going to happen to those Panasonic batteries if I run them couple of times to the flickering. And if something does happen than it is junk batteries.
I think, it is important to know the capabilities of your tools even if you don't need all of those capabilities right now. A year ago I had five days without electricity and I wish I'd had this light then.


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## 15hushabomb (May 26, 2015)

Got a problem with my light. I accidentally left it on and it must have cooked the circuit as now I put a fresh battery and it won't go back to max brightness. Anyway to fix this problem.......


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## selfbuilt (May 26, 2015)

15hushabomb said:


> Got a problem with my light. I accidentally left it on and it must have cooked the circuit as now I put a fresh battery and it won't go back to max brightness. Anyway to fix this problem.......


Can you describe the problem in more detail (i.e., is it only max that is missing, on all modes beyond low)? Either way, not much you can do other than trying another battery and thoroughly cleaning all contacts.


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## D6859 (Jul 21, 2015)

Swedpat said:


> I can state: while I really like a beam with a wide hotspot at shorter distance, a throwier light is more useful: a throwy light works for as well short and long distance. A less throwy/floody light does not work at long distance. The throwy beam may not be optimal at short distance with the blinding and smaller hotspot but it works.
> If I had to choose between Viking and Predator the Predator would be the choice. I am happy I can have both, though!



Swedpat: Where did you order your lights? eBay? Can you PM the seller's name? How long did it take from the payment to you receiving the light? And also what do you use Viking for? How about Predator?

I just topped up my PayPal account so that I could order Viking v2.5 Pro (warm) from Hong Kong, but Swedpat's post made me re-consider ordering Predator instead. I still have few days to wait until the transfer is complete. Unfortunately I don't have money to order both lights at the moment. Also, what I read about your problems with the lights I'm not willing to take twice the risk of getting a defect light. So can you all help me decide?

I'm ordering the light for my protection and for general use. I've been thinking about programming it this way: Line 1 (protection): strobe -> max, full regulation and no memory. Line 2 (general): firefly -> low -> med -> max, semi regulation, mode memory. I already own Olight M22 and Thrunite TN12. They both lack a secure and fast access to strobe. Ofc Viking/Predator should be carried with the line 1 selected for the quick strobe function. M22 doesn't have real low nor firefly mode. TN12 has useless turbo mode (same as 'high' after about 10 minutes of use), and I often prefer using M22 as a bikelight since it's throwier. Viking programmed as described might be a good combination of both lights: not too spotty but throwier than TN12, more tacticool and if something bothered me I could always re-program it. I doubt that Viking would replace the TN12 in my pocket though, but it could replace the M22 attached to my shoulderbag. 

Selfbuilt: I thank you for the reviews! I've read both Predator and Viking threads now


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