# Help w 8x 7135 board



## Anto (Oct 23, 2009)

Followed the wiring diagram here:













I removed the diodes per the picture and bridged q1 & q3. Emitter does not light up. Was I not supposed to remove the diode for just 2x 7135 boards (no multimode board)?


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## Drewfus2101 (Oct 23, 2009)

You can remove them on both boards. Something else must be the problem.


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## tx101 (Oct 23, 2009)

A photo of your boards might help us determine what the problem is


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## Anto (Oct 23, 2009)

pardon the messy soldering

I had to solder the + and - leads to another board. I checked continuity and it's good.


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## tx101 (Oct 24, 2009)

Looking at your photos, I think you really need to check
all the solder joints.
I dont like the looks of all that exposed wire, it is asking for 
a short circuit


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## Hallmcc (Oct 25, 2009)

Delete post. after zooming my tired eyes stand corrected.


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## Justin Case (Oct 25, 2009)

Get a meter and test for continuity:

- Ground between the two AMC7135 boards (which should imply a common ground for all of the AMC chips)
- Ground from the bottom AMC board to your contact board
- Batt+ between the two boards
- Batt+ from the bottom AMC board to your contact board
- Vdd pin continuity for all of the AMC chips
- OUT pin continuity for all of the AMC chips

The first photo, showing the wire connections to your contact board, doesn't seem to show any solder joints for those connections. Did you solder the wires on the other side of the board (the spring side), which is not seen in the photo? Otherwise, I would suspect those connections as being the open ones.

Why do you need the third (contact) board? Why can't you use the bottom AMC board, which has perfectly good anode pad to solder a center spring? Also, why are the two AMC boards so loose? Why not put them together tightly, like this:






If you look closely in-between the two boards, you'll see parallel connections for Batt+ to Batt+, OUT to OUT, and GND to GND. The OUT to OUT connection requires drilling a small hole to run the connection to the top board. If you don't have a small drill bit, you can run this connection around the outer edge of the top board. If driver clearance in your host device is an issue, you can file a small notch in the top board to fit your wire.

All of those connections are made using short pieces of tinned, 24 ga stranded wire. I soldered each piece to the bottom board first. Then I slid the top board onto the pieces of wire through the matching holes for the top board. Held the two boards tightly together and soldered the top connections. Then trimmed the excess wire with diagonal cutters.


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## ti-force (Jan 24, 2010)

I know this thread is about 3 months old, but I figured this would be the best place to ask my question. I have an ssc p7 mag that I built a few months ago. I'm using 3 boards (1.4A AMC7135's from DX) with a total of 9x7135's (I've removed 1x7135 chip from each board) which should be close to 3A all total. I'm using 1xD size li-ion to power the light. Current readings on my meter, between the third board and the emitter was 2.7A, so I soldered a 7135 chip back into the Q2 spot on the second board. The current stayed about the same.

I figured I got the chip too hot or something and it wasn't any good so I soldered another 7135 chip on the third board, again in the Q2 slot, whereI removed it from while building the driver. This time the current actually went down to around 2.53A. I checked all my contacts with my DMM before I ever connected power, and everything was making good contact, all the chips, everything.

So is their a procedure to check and see which 7135 chips are bad or should I just start over?

Thanks for the help guys.

Casey


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## Linger (Jan 25, 2010)

If you're using a single cell to drive it the 7135's shouldn't get too hot (not much voltage for them to burn)
could be resistance in the build?
You'd know better that I if your cell will sustain 3A output, some KD / DX won't pass 2.5A when installed.
AFAIK to check each chip you'd have to isolate it which obviously isn't practical. So do you have other options to confirm power supply and emitter aren't the bottle necks?
Can you parrallel to batts, possibly parrallel two emitters too. Possible this will open up your build enough that you'd get a read if it was the driver sandwich that was the blockage.


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## ti-force (Jan 25, 2010)

Linger said:


> If you're using a single cell to drive it the 7135's shouldn't get too hot (not much voltage for them to burn)
> could be resistance in the build?
> You'd know better that I if your cell will sustain 3A output, some KD / DX won't pass 2.5A when installed.
> AFAIK to check each chip you'd have to isolate it which obviously isn't practical. So do you have other options to confirm power supply and emitter aren't the bottle necks?
> Can you parrallel to batts, possibly parrallel two emitters too. Possible this will open up your build enough that you'd get a read if it was the driver sandwich that was the blockage.


 

Sorry, I meant too hot from soldering, maybe staying on the board too long with the iron. I should've been more specific.

Last night I remembered you telling me that some cells can't sustain that high of an output, I guess I just assumed a cell that big would, but boy was I wrong:thumbsdow.

I built a new sandwich using 2xAMC7135 boards with a total of 8x7135 chips. The current is still 2.6A :thumbsdow, so it must be the batteries. I wish I would've known that before I ordered them, but oh well. I'll include some pics of my sandwich and the current readings of the pathetic, big fat D sized cell. What I really don't understand, is how a little 14500 cell can supply more amps than a 32650 cell, well, not more amps, but for it's size it's pretty amazing. I would have thought that 32650 cell would support at least 3A. See below:


NOTE: I only run the 14500 at that current for 15 to 20 seconds MAX! Playing it safe.





Sandwich:






















Current reading with 32650 cell:

















Current reading with 14500 cell (in the modded k-106/MC-E in my other thread):


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## Justin Case (Jan 25, 2010)

You have a lot of potential sources for voltage drop in your circuit, with the alligator clips, DMM probe wires, and DMM itself. And that's on top of any additional voltage drop sources in your Mag mod (e.g., tail spring contact to the bottom battery, Mag switch spring contact to the top battery). If you are measuring 2.65A for an 8x7135 driver, I'd say you are well within spec. The 7135 chips are nominally 350mA per chip, but can be lower than that and still be in spec.


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## spencer (Jan 25, 2010)

I think you gotta take everything out of your light and put everything together with heavy gauge wire (low resistance) and try it again. That big cell should be able to handle the current. The protection circuit hasn't kicked in yet.


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## ti-force (Jan 25, 2010)

Justin Case said:


> You have a lot of potential sources for voltage drop in your circuit, with the alligator clips, DMM probe wires, and DMM itself. And that's on top of any additional voltage drop sources in your Mag mod (e.g., tail spring contact to the bottom battery, Mag switch spring contact to the top battery). If you are measuring 2.65A for an 8x7135 driver, I'd say you are well within spec. The 7135 chips are nominally 350mA per chip, but can be lower than that and still be in spec.


 

I guess I forgot to mention that I built this new sandwich and tested it. The results are seen in the picture, but then I took one of the 4x7135 boards off of the old sandwich (the one I thought was faulty) and soldered it in and tested that single board. I got around 1.45A with it, so I soldered it onto the 8x7135 sandwich, to see if the current would go up. It did not and the current read 2.65A for 12x7135's. So again, I appologize that I left that part out. Shouldn't the current have gone up from 8x7135's to 12x7135's?

Edit** Do you think the protection circuit on the 32650's is limiting me here? Edit** this was already answered, sorry guys.

Casey


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## ti-force (Jan 25, 2010)

spencer said:


> I think you gotta take everything out of your light and put everything together with heavy gauge wire (low resistance) and try it again. That big cell should be able to handle the current. The protection circuit hasn't kicked in yet.


 

I have a question about this. I tried to check resitance in the spring the other day. I turned my DMM to 2k, touched one lead to the bare aluminum on the tailcap (where it makes contact with the battery) and the other lead to the top of the spring (where it makes contact with the battery) and it showed 0 resistance. I then turned my DMM to 20k and again the same thing. 200k also gave the same reading, so either I'm not doing something correctly or my DMM isn't very accurate. What do you think?


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## Packhorse (Jan 25, 2010)

Resistance will increase with current flowing through it,

And a small level of resistance is hard to measure.
One way of measuring it accurately would be to put a know amount of current through it and measure the voltage drop.


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## ti-force (Jan 25, 2010)

Packhorse said:


> Resistance will increase with current flowing through it,
> 
> And a small level of resistance is hard to measure.
> One way of measuring it accurately would be to put a know amount of current through it and measure the voltage drop.


 



Silly me haha... I was trying to check without any current at all. Oh well, I guess my newbeness is showing haha..


Thanks for the help.


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## spencer (Jan 25, 2010)

That and you gotta use the 200 Ohm range. Lower is better in this case but it looks like thats as low as yours goes.


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## Justin Case (Jan 25, 2010)

ti-force said:


> I guess I forgot to mention that I built this new sandwich and tested it. The results are seen in the picture, but then I took one of the 4x7135 boards off of the old sandwich (the one I thought was faulty) and soldered it in and tested that single board. I got around 1.45A with it, so I soldered it onto the 8x7135 sandwich, to see if the current would go up. It did not and the current read 2.65A for 12x7135's. So again, I appologize that I left that part out. Shouldn't the current have gone up from 8x7135's to 12x7135's?
> 
> Edit** Do you think the protection circuit on the 32650's is limiting me here? Edit** this was already answered, sorry guys.
> 
> Casey



That Mag tube looks like a 3D or longer body. You have it loaded with just one 32650? What is taking up the rest of the space? That could be a source for lots of voltage drop.

What brand of 32650 cell are you using? The fact that it couldn't deliver the goods with 12x7135 suggests it just can't hold enough voltage under the current demand. It can do it for 4x7135 (1.4A). It can barely hold it for 8x7135. But that's apparently the max. Who knows if it is the cell, parasitic losses in your system, or a combination.

You need to remove some confounding variables to narrow the possibilities. Do you have access to a bench power supply?


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## ti-force (Jan 25, 2010)

Justin Case said:


> That Mag tube looks like a 3D or longer body. You have it loaded with just one 32650? What is taking up the rest of the space? That could be a source for lots of voltage drop.
> 
> What brand of 32650 cell are you using? The fact that it couldn't deliver the goods with 12x7135 suggests it just can't hold enough voltage under the current demand. It can do it for 4x7135 (1.4A). It can barely hold it for 8x7135. But that's apparently the max. Who knows if it is the cell, parasitic losses in your system, or a combination.
> 
> You need to remove some confounding variables to narrow the possibilities. Do you have access to a bench power supply?


 

It's actually a 2d mag, but for some reason it does look longer in the picture. The battery is this one: Kaidomain. I use one 32650 and to take up the space I use this spacer (scroll to the bottom): Flashlightking. I also had to use this spring because the stock spring is too long: Kaidomain. This spring is really stiff and it takes some pressure to get the tailcap screwed on, so nothing is loose in there. The fact that this cell can't keep up really sucks haha.. Could you recommend a cell that might deliver the current I'm after? AW IMR's? I wish someone made a small li-po, like a 1s2p or something that would fit into the body of a d sized mag. They make tons of different lipo batteries for r/c stuff, but most of it is 2s and up, so the voltage is too high for the 7135's.

I hate to show my ignorance here, but I'm not sure what you mean by bench power supply. I guess that means I don't have access to one.

Casey


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## ti-force (Jan 25, 2010)

Is a bench power supply the machine that allows one to put a battery under a set load and test the battery?


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## Justin Case (Jan 25, 2010)

Each point of contact could result in tens of milliohms resistance (or more, if the contact point is dirty, for example). It adds up. Then, if you are dealing with relatively high current, which is the case for 12x7135, you can have significant voltage drop. Suppose you have a total parasitic resistance of even only 0.1 ohm. For 8x7135 -> 2.8A, that's V = IR = 2.8*0.1 = 0.28V drop. If you are starting at 3.7V nominal for a Li-ion and an LED Vf of perhaps 3.5V, you've lost a significant amount of input voltage, which you really can't afford when using 7135-based drivers. For 12x7135 -> 4.2A, you could suffer a voltage drop of 0.42V.

It might be that your cell is fine, but you have excessive parasitic resistance and thus excessive voltage drop. I would get rid of the spacer cell and go with a mod'ed 1D host (easy for me to spend your money) or switch to a 3D Mag host and go with 3xNiMH.

What voltage bin is your P7? You probably want an I voltage bin, not a J voltage bin. If you have a J bin, then better go to a 4xD NiMH host and suck up the resultant driver inefficiency. Put your DMM in VDC mode and measure the voltage across the LED terminals when powered up. At roughly 2.6A drive, you should read around 3.5V give or take. The lower the better. If you are up around 3.75V, that's too high.

A bench power supply is a box that can deliver things like constant current or constant voltage to a device. Thus, you can run your driver directly off of the bench supply instead of batteries and be assured that you are delivering the goods that the driver needs.


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## ti-force (Jan 26, 2010)

I didn't realize that much could be lost like that. I guess the only way to eliminate the dummy cell, is to have the mag cut down to a 1d. I'm not sure if I really care to do that. I'll see if I can find some info on reducing resistance in the switch and tailspring. I used 24 and 26 gauge teflon wire for all wiring. Do I need to change that?

Thanks


Casey


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## ti-force (Jan 26, 2010)

Sorry, I missed the edited part of your post up there. It's an I bin p7 (csxpi) and I'll check voltage accross the emitter when I get a chance, hopefully this evening. I'm just not really excited about the idea of cutting the mag down, but I may have to if I want to run 1 cell.


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## ti-force (Jan 26, 2010)

I just measured voltage across the emitter and I got 3.33V initially and that dropped to 3.30V in about 15 seconds. The battery voltage was 4.19V.


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## Justin Case (Jan 26, 2010)

That's a reasonably low Vf, assuming the P7 was driven at around 2.65A, which was what your DMM photo showed. I assume your 4.19V for the cell is a resting voltage, not the voltage under load.

You would think that under load, however, you'd have at least 3.7V, which seems comfortably above Vf by about 0.4V.

My guess is that either the cell is not performing up to expectations at the higher current draw and/or there is parasitic voltage loss in your flashlight circuit that is eating away at your ~0.4V headroom.

Another possibility, which I alluded to previously, is that your DMM is introducing some voltage drop by its insertion into the circuit. You might check your manual to see if it lists specs on that.

The cell is the cell and it's what you have. So, ignoring the possible DMM effect, I'd work on reducing parasitic voltage drops.

For example, if we assume average the resistance for 24 ga and 26 ga wire, we get about 0.032 ohms per foot. I'm going to assume that you have about 1 foot of wire in your Mag mod. At 2.65A, that gives about 0.08V drop. If you switch to all 22 gauge, you can cut that voltage drop in half. Or reduce your wire lengths by half. Or a combination of both.

You can reduce the tail spring resistance by the usual tricks documented on CPF, such as using copper solder wick to connect the bottom coil to the top coil.

For the spacer and its potential effect, try this. Measure the current draw using your DMM at the Mag tail. Then remove the spacer and re-measure the current draw at the tail. See if there is a difference.


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## ti-force (Jan 26, 2010)

Justin Case said:


> I assume your 4.19V for the cell is a resting voltage, not the voltage under load.


 
Yes, the battery voltage was measured resting. Although, it wasn't off the charger for very long, maybe 20 or 30 minutes. I'm not sure if that matters or not.





> My guess is that either the cell is not performing up to expectations at the higher current draw and/or there is parasitic voltage loss in your flashlight circuit that is eating away at your ~0.4V headroom.


 
Probably the latter haha.. I have 3 of those cells and I've tried 2 of them with basically the same results, unless both cells are not performing up to expectation.



> Another possibility, which I alluded to previously, is that your DMM is introducing some voltage drop by its insertion into the circuit. You might check your manual to see if it lists specs on that.


 
I'll check into this to find out.




> The cell is the cell and it's what you have. So, ignoring the possible DMM effect, I'd work on reducing parasitic voltage drops.
> 
> For example, if we assume average the resistance for 24 ga and 26 ga wire, we get about 0.032 ohms per foot. I'm going to assume that you have about 1 foot of wire in your Mag mod. At 2.65A, that gives about 0.08V drop. If you switch to all 22 gauge, you can cut that voltage drop in half. Or reduce your wire lengths by half. Or a combination of both.
> 
> ...


 
Thanks for this info, it's very useful. Now I need to order some materials and start working on reducing parasitic voltage drops:thumbsup:.


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## Linger (Jan 27, 2010)

head over to the hotwire (incan) section. Resistance is far more concerning for hotwires and there is a wealth of knowledge on reducing resitance in the mag. As resistance is mainly between contact points, a lot of resistance is in the switch b/c it has several contacts to complete the circuit (works great at 3.6v, but inefficient design for higher voltage). Also that dummy cell. You might even think to do something like solder a connection from the +'ve switch, past the dummy cell and position the wire end as your new +'ve batt contact. Doing this can pass 3-5 interfaces and remove the question of dummycell resistance from the question.
(click link in my sig, rebel triple, scroll down to driver for example of connecting wire from +'ve driver to battery +'ve. you're expanding this idea and bridging that wire past the dummy cell)


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## ti-force (Jan 27, 2010)

Linger said:


> head over to the hotwire (incan) section. Resistance is far more concerning for hotwires and there is a wealth of knowledge on reducing resitance in the mag. As resistance is mainly between contact points, a lot of resistance is in the switch b/c it has several contacts to complete the circuit (works great at 3.6v, but inefficient design for higher voltage).



Thanks! I'll head over there and do some more research.




> Also that dummy cell. You might even think to do something like solder a connection from the +'ve switch, past the dummy cell and position the wire end as your new +'ve batt contact. Doing this can pass 3-5 interfaces and remove the question of dummycell resistance from the question.
> (click link in my sig, rebel triple, scroll down to driver for example of connecting wire from +'ve driver to battery +'ve. you're expanding this idea and bridging that wire past the dummy cell)



That's an EXCELLENT idea. Thank you very much for sharing that with me. You guys really remind me of just how little I know about this stuff. 

Thanks for your time guys!

:bow:


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## ti-force (Jan 28, 2010)

Justin Case said:


> For the spacer and its potential effect, try this. Measure the current draw using your DMM at the Mag tail. Then remove the spacer and re-measure the current draw at the tail. See if there is a difference.


 

I just did this and I got 2.79A with the spacer installed and 2.84A with the spacer removed at the taicap. It's some what hard to get an accurate reading, because it reads low at first and then it starts to increase. I also noticed that the current reading goes up on my DMM when I hold the lead straight down on the battery (applying pressure with the pointed end of the lead), rather than the lead resting where it lands, when I initially touch the battery (if that makes sense). I'm not sure if it's my cheap meter or what.

Since the current went up to spec for 8x7135's, I wonder just how much I'm losing through the tailcap and spring. Of course, I don't know how much I was losing through the alligator clamps (from the 2.65A reading) and DMM. Oh yeah, I also used a paper towel to wipe off the bare aluminum on the body with the taicap removed (where the tailcap contacts the body) and noticed some black residue on the paper towel, so I guess that's one contact that was dirty.

I don't have any of the good contact cleaner like I hear people talk about on here, so is there anything I can use that would be available locally until I get some of the good stuff, or do you think I got it clean enough with the paper towel?


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## spencer (Jan 28, 2010)

I would use gas.


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## ti-force (Jan 28, 2010)

spencer said:


> I would use gas.


 

I'm not questioning you here, I'm just curious. Why do you say gas? Does it clean and lubricate or something? Like I said, I'm not questioning, just curious as to why it works.

Casey


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## Justin Case (Jan 28, 2010)

Radio Shack probably has DeoxIT. In the meantime, I'd use regular isopropyl alcohol.


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## spencer (Jan 28, 2010)

Gas cuts through greasy stuff. If its greasy it will clean it off. And its readily available.


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## ti-force (Jan 29, 2010)

Justin Case said:


> Radio Shack probably has DeoxIT. In the meantime, I'd use regular isopropyl alcohol.


 


spencer said:


> Gas cuts through greasy stuff. If its greasy it will clean it off. And its readily available.


 

Okay, thanks guys.:thumbsup:


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## ti-force (Jan 30, 2010)

Well guys, I don't know what's up. I took the spacer apart to see how it's connected, and to see if I could run a wire through somehow to bypass it. When I took it apart, I noticed that there's a long pin going through the center of it, and a short pin on the other side of the spacer. The short pin actually slips into the long pin to make an additional connection (which is not good) so I removed the short pin, which gave me an open hole on one side of the spacer. Perfect for running a wire through.

I then soldered a wire on the inside of the long pin and ran it all the way to my switch. This got rid of 3 connections, one of which was the small spring that the battery is supposed to make contact with. I then removed 3x7135 chips off of an AMC7135 board and soldered it together with my 8x7135 sandwich. I was hoping this would give me an additional 350ma or at least get me to 3A, but this was not the case. In fact, with the battery voltage at 4.13v the current reading at the tailcap was 2.74A. I then charged the battery up to 4.20v and tried it again.

The current went up to 2.90A at the tailcap, so I guess I'm still losing voltage somewhere. At this point, I don't really know what to do guys, and I understand that it's really difficult for you guys to try to diagnose my problems without the light in hand. Here are some pictures of the switch/spacer mod:


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## spencer (Jan 30, 2010)

Those thin wires coming off the switch could also be the problem. You need thicker stuff for higher currents. And make sure you used thicker wire than what I see coming off the switch to run through the spacer.


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## ti-force (Jan 30, 2010)

spencer said:


> Those thin wires coming off the switch could also be the problem. You need thicker stuff for higher currents. And make sure you used thicker wire than what I see coming off the switch to run through the spacer.



I'd like to use 22ga wire, but all I have is 24 and 26. I used 24ga everywhere but led + and that's 26ga. Do you think I should order some 22ga?

Thanks for your help.


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## Justin Case (Jan 30, 2010)

The back of the envelope estimate I made before on the reduction in voltage drop if you switch to 22 ga suggested that you might gain about 0.1V. For your relatively low Vf P7 and theoretically a 3.7V 32650 Li-ion, you should have plenty of voltage headroom for your AMC7135 driver.

Thus, I think you've exhausted the easy parasitic voltage drops. I'd get a different Li-ion cell. I suspect that it just has too much voltage sag. Perhaps a Batteryspace NMC (Li-NiMnCo) 26650 (same length as your current KD cell, just take up the smaller diameter with some expedient like some PVC tubing).


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## vestureofblood (Jan 30, 2010)

Hi all,

Using the 7135 type board that just "clips" or "burns off" the extra voltage. Do you still get longer runtime using lower outputs or do you just get more burn off?

Example, is runtime longer on a 1050ma board than with the 1400ma board?


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## Justin Case (Jan 31, 2010)

Yes, you get longer run time, all else being equal. If you use a 1050mA vs 1400mA driver, you are drawing a nominal 1050mA instead of 1400mA of current at the tail.

If you have something like a 2-stage McC2S, the added resistor will also lengthen run time. With a 60 ohm resistor, I got over 24 hr run time before I got bored and gave up the measurement. This was with a single-mode, 6x7135 (2100mA) driver. The resting voltage of the 17670 Li-ion after the test was still over 3.9V, so there was a fair amount of capacity left.


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## ti-force (Jan 31, 2010)

Justin Case said:


> The back of the envelope estimate I made before on the reduction in voltage drop if you switch to 22 ga suggested that you might gain about 0.1V. For your relatively low Vf P7 and theoretically a 3.7V 32650 Li-ion, you should have plenty of voltage headroom for your AMC7135 driver.
> 
> Thus, I think you've exhausted the easy parasitic voltage drops. I'd get a different Li-ion cell. I suspect that it just has too much voltage sag. Perhaps a Batteryspace NMC (Li-NiMnCo) 26650 (same length as your current KD cell, just take up the smaller diameter with some expedient like some PVC tubing).


 

Thanks for clearing that up for me. I'll order a couple of those cells and try them out. I didn't even know those cells existed.

Thanks


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## Justin Case (Jan 31, 2010)

It's easy for me to spend someone else's money! :devil:


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## ti-force (Jan 31, 2010)

Justin Case said:


> It's easy for me to spend someone else's money! :devil:


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## vestureofblood (Jan 31, 2010)

Justin Case said:


> Yes, you get longer run time, all else being equal. If you use a 1050mA vs 1400mA driver, you are drawing a nominal 1050mA instead of 1400mA of current at the tail.
> 
> If you have something like a 2-stage McC2S, the added resistor will also lengthen run time. With a 60 ohm resistor, I got over 24 hr run time before I got bored and gave up the measurement. This was with a single-mode, 6x7135 (2100mA) driver. The resting voltage of the 17670 Li-ion after the test was still over 3.9V, so there was a fair amount of capacity left.


 
Thanks.


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## Linger (Feb 2, 2010)

Looks like a good start clearing up the electrical path - I guess you're not gonna trust a spacer ever again.

If you end up using a 26xxx size cell and a battery tube, you could also pull a -'ve contact wire. You know where I'm going with this then right?
) a -'ve contact pad in the bottom of your battery tube
)drill a hole through the switch base
)by-pass the entire hex screw section
)run the -'ve batt lead from the base of the battery right the way up to the driver contact board.

*this would be a good application for a higher capacity wire, but the option of foregoing tailspring - tailcap - battery tube - hex screw - metal plate - negative driver lead is nice.


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## ti-force (Feb 7, 2010)

Linger said:


> Looks like a good start clearing up the electrical path - I guess you're not gonna trust a spacer ever again.
> 
> If you end up using a 26xxx size cell and a battery tube, you could also pull a -'ve contact wire. You know where I'm going with this then right?
> ) a -'ve contact pad in the bottom of your battery tube
> ...


 

Wow! I didn't even realize you posted this until tonight. Darn email notification system. Anyway, I thought about that, but I can't come up with a good solution for being able to remove the battery from the battery tube (with a contact pad at the rear of the battery tube). The battery tube wouldn't be removable with the - ve wire running through it, so the battery would have to come out of the tube some how. Any ideas? I'm still waiting for my Batteryspace batteries to come in; they should be here tomorrow.


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## ti-force (Feb 8, 2010)

Since I'm still waiting for my Batteryspace batteries to come in, I've been playing around with another project. It's a Darktort DT-E 1.0 that's been modded with an MC-E M bin emitter and a Shiningbeam, 3-mode, 8x7135 driver. It works good and I've applied the knowledge from you guys to the light and got the taicap reading up from 2.4A to 2.79A, but, I couldn't leave well enough alone; I added 1-7135 chip to the board to try and push it to 3A. The battery is an AW 18650, protected, 2200mah battery. I just tried it out about 30 minutes ago and I now have a strobe mode haha...

Before the additional 7135 was added, the 3 mode chip worked fine (low, med, high), but now I get a low, strobe and high. Is the current too high for the multi-mode chip in the medium mode? I mean, I can live without it because the high functions properly, and I do have a low if I need it, but I'm just curious about what's going on.

Thanks guys.


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## ti-force (Feb 8, 2010)

Linger said:


> Looks like a good start clearing up the electrical path - I guess you're not gonna trust a spacer ever again.


 

Your darn right about that:thumbsup: haha..


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## Mettee (Feb 8, 2010)

Do you have a pic of where you placed the addition amc chip on the SB board? You may have made a solder path that you didnt want.


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## ti-force (Feb 8, 2010)

Mettee said:


> Do you have a pic of where you placed the addition amc chip on the SB board? You may have made a solder path that you didnt want.


 

I think you're right. I noticed that the ground unerneath the 7135 was touching one of the star shaped, bare metal spots on the board. I changed it, and it strobed one time when I put the battery back in, but it hasn't done it since and the medium mode works fine now:thinking:.


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## Mettee (Feb 8, 2010)

solid man! 

dont you hate when that happens


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## ti-force (Feb 9, 2010)

Haha..... Yeah, I know.

Thanks for your help:thumbsup:.


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