# Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)



## selfbuilt

*Warning: a LOT more pic heavy than usual. *







The D25-series from Eagletac has recently been updated with all new "Clicky" models (i.e., lights use a tailcap clicky switch to control on/off and perform some mode changes). 

There are actually a large number of battery models, circuits and emitters available in this line, and I won't be covering all of them here.  Instead, I have four models on hand for review: the D25C XM-L U2, the D25C XP-G S2, the D25A XP-G S2, and the D25LC2 XM-L U2, all in cool white. Not examined are the D25A, D25C2, the alternate circuit version of the D25LC2 (with XP-G emitter), or any of neutral-tint emitter options.

Since this is a lot to make sense of, I will start out with a general overview of the line, with common build features described. I will then examine each specific model in detail – presenting size comparisons, beamshot comparisons, throw, output and runtime testing comparisons (all relative to others of their respective classes). Finally, some general comments at the end. :sweat:

Before I get started, here are the general Manufacturer specs on the D25 Clicky line, and specific specs on the models I am testing. _Note that finding accurate specs on this series can be complicated, due to all the options (i.e. the common bundled manual only presents general ranges). Below are taken from the Eagletac website technical specs for each model reviewed here. Note also that outputs and runtime typically refer to output group 2 (Moonlight) where available, and not the default output group 1. I will explain all of this later in the review._

*Common D25C Clicky-Series Specs*


All lights available with XM-L U2 or XP-G S2 LED emitters, in Cool White or Neutral White tints
Two groups (1 & 2) output, selected by twisting head/bezel
Three levels brightness and seven hidden modes (strobe, beacon, SOS, flash, etc) at group 1 (head loosen)
Turbo output and tactical strobe output at group 2 (head tighten) 
Stainless steel bezel coated with durable titanium in dark grey
Syntax ultra-clear glass lens w/ harden and both-side AR coating
Type III finish / aerospace grade aluminum
Stainless steel pocket clip in highly polished finish (A and C)
Light orange peel (LOP) reflector for maximum output and a smooth beam
Gold and silver plated contacts (made with brass and copper)
Superior knurling for improved grip
IPX-8 waterproof
Reverse Clicky
Heavy Duty Holster with self-retention device
Mil-Spec Paracord Lanyard w/ quick attachment clip
*D25C Specs*

OTF Lumens for Cree XM-L U2: 277/182/22/0.5 lumens
OTF Lumens for Cree XP-G S2: 219/149/22/0.5 lumens
Note: With moon-mode setting disabled, lowest output will increase by about 6 times, to 4 lumen, and the second lowest output will double, to around 65 lumen
Runtime: 0.9/1.6/10/150+ hrs
Powered by 1x CR123 battery
Voltage range: 1.8V-3.2V Li-ion
Dimensions: Head Diameter 0.78 inches (20 mm), Body Diameter 0.78 inches (20 mm), Length: 2.9 inches (75 mm), Weight: 1 ounce (29 grams)
Using a 3.7V RCR123A Li-ion Rechargeable battery direct drives the LED at maximum current level (up to 750 LED lumen from XM-L and about 550 LED lumen from XP-G). Limit each usage to less than five minutes (or less than one minute each with freshly charged Li-ion for the first couple times). Hold the light in your palm to help remove heat from the LED. If you find the flashlight too warm to hold, turn off the light to allow the light to cool down. Do not leave the light running unintended. When using a Li-ion cell, all brightness levels will become the highest output (except the lowest mode). Expected runtime is about 20-30 minutes.
*D25A2 Specs*

ANSI FL-1 Lumens for Cree XP-G S2: 219/149/22/0.5 lumens
Note: With moon-mode setting disabled, lowest output will increase by about 6 times, to 4 lumen, and the second lowest output will double, to around 65 lumen
Runtime: 1.4/2.5/16/200+ hrs
Powered by 2xAA batteries
Voltage range: 1.8V-3.0V Li-ion
Dimensions: Head Diameter 0.85 inches (21 mm), Body Diameter 0.7 inches (18 mm), Length: 5.7 inches (146 mm), Weight: 1.9 ounce (54 grams)
With moon-mode setting disabled, lowest output will increase by about 6 times, to 4 lumen, and the second lowest output will double, to around 65 lumen
*D25LC2 Specs*

ANSI FL-1 Lumens for Cree XM-L U2: 548/370/50/5 lumens
Runtime (2xCR123A): 1/1.8/15/100+ hrs
Runtime (1x18650): 1.5/2.4/25/150+ hrs
Powered by 2xCR123A, 2xRCR123A, or 1x18650 li-ion
Voltage range: 2.7V-9V Li-ion
Dimensions: Head Diameter 0.9 inches (22.5 mm), Body Diameter 0.85 inches (22 mm), Length: 4.5 inches (115 mm), Weight: 1.7 ounces (49 grams)
Note X-G S2 version uses a different circuit with longer runtimes






All lights come in comparable packaging, including a belt holster with metal button clasp, wrist lanyard, extra o-rings, manual, and warranty card. A sturdy clip is attached to the light by either a pair of small hex screws (D25C), or under a removable ring cover (D25A2, D25LC2). A representative D25C sample is shown above.

*Build Overview:*

I'm going to quickly run through the bodies in sequence, highlighting differences between each model/version as I go. :wave:

*D25C:*


























The D25C build is remarkably petite for a 1xCR123A clicky light (see detailed size pics and measurements later in the review). 

Anodizing is a glossy black (HA = type III). All labels are fairly small and very clear (sharp and bright against the black background). 

Knurling is present over most of the body, with an additional band on the head. This makes grip good, and the light is easy to twist single-handed. 

The head has a large and flat-ended stainless steel bezel (with a dark-finish). Reflector is a light orange-peel (LOP) textured reflector. I'll talk more about reflectors and emitters in the beamshot section of the review.

Screw threading is fairly fine in the head, and not anodized (which is understandable, given the twisty features).

There is no spring in the head, but a raised disc around the center contact is used to prevent reverse-polarity accidents (i.e. need to use batteries with a raised top).

The stainless steel pocket clip is held in place by two hex screws near the base. 

Both my D25C samples could tailstand perfectly, as the low-profile reverse clicky is slightly recessed. :thumbsup: Switch feel is about typical for a small reverse clicky.

There is also a split-ring attachment point off to one side of the base, if you want to put it on a keychain.

*D25A2:* 


























The D25A2 is also quite small for its class (again, see detailed size pics and measurements later in the review). 

Anodizing, knurling, and labels are comparable to the D25C, all in excellent shape. The head and reflector look similar to the D25C, but are actually slightly larger (again, scroll down for measurements and more info).

The black-coated stainless steel pocket clip is the standard clip-on style variety, but it is firmly held in place by a removable screw ring. Unscrew the ring to remove the clip. 

Screw threading is slightly larger than the D25C, and is of comparable number, size and width at both ends of the battery tube. This means that the head and tailcaps are reversible on the battery tube. This thus allows you change the clip orientation by simply exchanging the head and tail regions (i.e., clip-up or clip-down). It also means that there is no anodization for tail-cap lockout, as the head-twist mechanism has to be able to work at both ends. :shrug: 

Unlike my D25Cs, my D25A2 sample was very wobbly when attempting to tailstand. You could probably adjust this slightly by loosening the switch retaining ring in the tailcap, but I doubt I could ever get this sample to tailstand securely.

There is now a removable lanyard attach ring on the tailcap.

*D25LC2:*






































The D25LC2 is generally similar to the D25A2 described above (scroll back to see a discussion). 

Again, this light is surprisingly small for a clicky-switch light that can run on protected 18650. To support the wider batteries, the overall diameter of the D25LC2 is also wider, across its entire length (scroll down for detailed measures and specs). 

My D25LC2 was slightly wobbly when tailstanding, but acceptable.

The D25LC2 comes with a 2xCR123A plastic insert, to prevent rattle. Remove the insert for use with 18650 cells.

Because of the raised contact ring around the positive contact in the head, only small-button top 18650 batteries will work in the light. No flat-top or wide button-top batteries will work. :shrug:

*User Interface*

The UI is typically common across the models, although there are some small differences.

Turn the lights on by pressing the tailcap reverse clicky (i.e., press and release for on). 

With the head tight, you get Turbo output. Soft-pressing the clicky switch will advance you to Strobe. Soft-press again to return to Turbo.

With the head loosened, you get the programmable state (actually available in two groups, as I will explain in a moment). In head-loosened state, you change output modes by soft-pressing the clicky switch. The basic sequence is: Lo > Med > Hi > in a double-repeating loop. If you continue to cycle past two series of Lo/Med/Hi in the head-loosened state, the light enters into the "hidden" strobe modes. The full proper sequence is thus: 

Lo > Med > Hi > Lo > Med > Hi > Strobe I > Strobe II > Beacon I > Beacon II > SOS I > SOS II > Low-flash > etc. 

Note the manual incorrectly describes the SOS modes as preceding Beacon. All of these modes are described in the next section of this review (i.e., oscilloscope traces).

Most of the lights have optional mode memory, which saves the last setting used of the head loosen state if you want. To toggle mode memory on or off, do three loosen-tighten head twists (starting from tight), while on. According to Eagletac, mode memory is not available on the D25A clicky model, but I don't have one to test. I can confirm that it wasn't available on my D25LC2 either. :shrug: Both my D25C samples and my D25A2 had toggle-able memory modes, as expected.

_UPDATE June 6, 2012_: Note that if you have mode memory turned on, the light always retains your location in the mode sequence (even when turned off/on). This means that if you advance through the constant output modes, you have to go through all the strobe modes to return to the constant output modes again (i.e., not really "hidden" any more, if memory is on). But if memory mode is off, BMX discovered there is a useful "shortcut" to jump you back to the first Lo mode, no matter where you are in the sequence. Just soft-press and hold the switch for more than one second, and the light reverts you back to the first output state (i.e., the first Lo mode). In essense, this works like turning the light off and on, but without the clicking required (i.e., with memory mode off, it always comes back on at the start of the sequence).

But you aren't done yet! :sweat: You also have the option of two possible groups of constant-output modes in the head-loosened state. You switch between alternate output groups by doing a tighten-loosen head switch three times in a row (starting from loosened, this time).

The default group 1 is what I refer to in this review as Lo1/Med1/Hi1. The alternate group 2 is also referred to as "Moonlight" by Eagletac, and I refer to these as Lo2/Med2/Hi2 in the review to distinguish. This is where things get a bit confusing - basically, this second set has lower outputs at the Lo and Med level, compared to the default group 1. How much is variable though (e.g., the D25LC2 just has a slightly lower Lo, it doesn't really have a true moonlight mode like the D25C and D25A2 do). See my Lumen Summary tables at the end of the review for more info.

Note that contrary to what the manual says, mode memory (if available and turned on) works for both groups of output modes (manual says it only works on group 1 modes). At least it worked on both groups for all the D25C and D25A2 models I tested, which were the only models have the mode memory option in the first place.

Oh, and to add to the complexity, the Eagletac ANSI FL-1 output and runtime specs typically refer the lower output "Moonlight mode" group (group 2), not the default group (group 1) that the lights actually come set to. If you look up more detailed technical specs, they will generally tell you how to convert for the group 1 Lo/Med.

I realize that may sound confusing, but it isn't so bad when you get used to it. Basically, you have access to the max mode (head tight) and three constant output modes (head loosened) at any given time. You just get to choose between two groups/sets of the lower output modes. I provide detailed tables giving you the estimated lumens at each mode output level in the "General Output/Runtime Comments" section later in the review. :wave:

In the meantime, to help show all of this better, please see my video overview: 



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

*PWM/Strobe*

There is no sign of PWM that I can see, at any output level – I presume the lights are current-controlled.  

I did detect some high frequency noise as shown below:

D25A2 Lo:









D25A2 Med/Hi:





Noise was in the range of ~1kHz or ~4kHz. None of this is visible to the eye, however. There was no sign of noise on the Turbo or Moonlight modes.

The "hidden" modes are as follows (in sequence):

Strobe modes:

Strobe I:





The first strobe mode is a standard tactical strobe, about 9.4 Hz. The head-tightened strobe mode is comparable to this mode.

Strobe II:





The second strobe mode is an alternating or "oscillating" strobe, switching between 6.5Hz and 16Hz roughly every 2 secs.

I haven't bothered to show the SOS modes, but the two options simply vary in their frequency. Note that despite what the manuals say, SOS is actually present after the two Beacon modes, not before.

Beacon modes:

Beacon I:





The first Beacon mode is 1.6Hz, with a roughly 50% on/off cycle of light.

Beacon II:





The second Beacon mode is of variable frequency and variable duration. Pattern seems completely random.

The Low-Flash mode (i.e. low output, slow frequency):






The Low-Flash mode was at reduced output, with a slow frequency of 0.37 Hz (i.e. one flash every ~2.7 secs or so). Basically, this is a third Beacon mode (just lower power and even less frequent).

There is no stanby-drain on any of the lights, due to the physical clicky-switch and head-twist mechanism.

*Beam:*

All members of this D25 Clicky family has small, reasonably deep reflectors in a light orange peel (LOP) finish. Emitters were fairly well centered on all my samples. I will provide detailed beamshot comparisons for each specific model below, compare to their respective class/battery type.

For all white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on battery described (I use AW protected Li-ions). Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Effective March 2012, I have updated the Max Output ANSI FL-1 lumen estimates to represent peak output measured at 30 secs (my earlier gray tables were based on a later time point for Max output). Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables.

And now, the comparative analysis of all the lights: :wave:

-------------

*D25C:*













From left to right: CR123A; Eagletac D25C; Lumintop ED10; 4Sevens Mini 123; Zebralight SC30; Olight i1; Thrunite 1C; Jetbeam PC10; Eagletac D25C.

All dimensions are given with no batteries installed:

*Eagletac D25C*: Weight: 30g, Length: 76.0mm, Width (bezel): 20.0mm
*Sunwayman M11R*: Weight 45.8g, Length: 76.4mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Sunwayman V11R*: Weight 50.5g, Length: 84.3mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Rofis JR10*: Weight 75.0g, Length (max): 110.6mm (angled): 92.9mm, Width (bezel): 24.8mm
*Jetbeam PC10*: Weight: 50.5g, Length: 93.6mm, Width (bezel): 22.6mm
*Jetbeam BC10*: Weight: 46.6g, Length: 90.3mm, Width (bezel): 23.2mm
*Lumintop ED10*: Weight: 21.5g, Length: 70.4mm, Width (bezel): 20.7mm
*Olight i1 Stainless Steel*: Weight 48.1g, Length: 63.9mm, Width (bezel): 20.4mm
*Thrunite Neutron 1C*: Weight: 45.2g, Length: 91.5mm, Width (bezel) 22.0mm










1x 3.7V RCR





























































1x 3V 1xCR123A:
























































































-------------

*D25A2:*









From left to right: Duracell AA NiMH; Eagletac D25A2, P20A2-II, P100A2; Fenix LD20; 4Sevens Quark AA-2; 4Sevens Quark Mini 2AA; JetBeam PA20.

All dimensions are given with no batteries installed:

*Eagletac D25A2*: Weight: 54.8g, Length 148.5mm, Width (bezel): 21.0mm
*4Sevens QAA-2 X* (Tactical tailcap): Weight: 60.1g, Length: 149.1mm, Width (bezel) 22.0mm
*Jetbeam PA20*: Weight: 82.52g, Length: 160mm, Width (bezel) 22.6mm
*Jetbeam BA20*: Weight: 70.2g, Length: 156.4mm, Width (bezel) 23.2mm
*Thrunite Neutron 2A*: Weight: 76.4g, Length: 250mm, Width (bezel) 22.0mm





2x NiMH (Eneloop)

























































































-------------

*D25LC2:*









From left to right: CR123A, Protected 18650, Eagletac D25LC2, 4Sevens Quark 123-2, Thrunite TN12, JetBeam PC20, Nitecore IFE2, Lumintop ED20, Zebralight SC600

All dimensions are given with no batteries installed:

*Eagletac D25LC2*: Weight: 50.0g, Length: 116.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.5mm
*4Sevens Quark Q123-2 X* (Regular tailcap): Weight: 44.6g, Length: 112.7mm, Width (bezel) 22.0mm
*Jetbeam PC20*: Weight: 60.0g, Length: 127.5mm, Width (bezel): 22.6mm
*Lumintop ED20*: Weight 84.4g, Length 121.6mm, Width (bezel) 25.2mm
*Spark SL6*: Weight 77.8g, Length: 125.5mm, Width (bezel) 30.9mm
*Thrunite TN12*: Weight: 64.0g, Length: 126.9mm, Width (bezel): 24.1mm
*Zebralight SC600*: Weight 87.2g, Length: 107.8mm, Width (bezel) 29.7mm


































































































*General Output/Runtime Comments:*

Ok, that's a LOT of data up there. :sweat: Let it me distill it down for you.

The first general observation is that the D25 Clicky models were all excellent performers in terms of output/runtime efficiency. :thumbsup: Clearly, there are very efficient current-controlled circuits in use in all models examined here, with very flat stabilization patterns. Note there is a time step-down on Turbo a little after 3 mins have passed. Note also that Hi is typically slightly lower than this stepped-down level.

The second observation is that initial output (prior to step-down) is eye-poppingly bright on every model, for its respective output and battery class. These are some of the highest outputs I've seen for these classes of lights – and with sone of the smallest builds, to boot. oo:

Another observation is that each light's output levels are remarkably consistent across all battery types supported (i.e., the reported output specs are independent of battery type). 

All of the above comes at certain cost, however. The wider circuit range of the D25LC2 means you lose the true "moonlight" level (i.e., group 2 outputs are lower on Lo/Med than group 1, but not that much lower). And the restricted range of the D25C means RCR is not fully supported (i.e., you only keep the two group Lo modes, but lose all the Med/Hi/Turbo to direct-drive). This is the price you pay for outstanding efficiency and perfectly stabilization. :shrug:

All that being said, there seems to be something a little off in Eagletac ANSI FL-1 numbers. Runtimes specs seem fairly accurate at the Hi/Turbo levels, but seem overly optimistic looking by the Med levels (note that I don't test lower levels). The reason for this become apparent when you look at my estimated lumen output values – they typically all exceed Eagletac's published specs by a noticeable amount.

Here are detailed tables comparing my lumen estimate to Eagletac published "OTF" or "ANSI FL-1" specs, for each light. Lo1/Med1/Hi1 refers to the default group 1, and Lo2/Med2/Hi2 refers to the alternate "Moonlight" group 2.

D25C XP-G S2





D25C XM-L U2





D25A2 XP-G S2





D25LC2 XM-L U2





The Eagletac "Moonlight", or group 2 output levels, typically only differ from the default group 1 levels at the Lo and Med outputs. The degree of difference is variable (i.e., the D25LC2 doesn't really have a true "moonlight" level, just a somewhat lower Lo). And the reduction in the Med levels would be hard to see for most people (although I can pick it up in my lightbox). In any case, Hi and Turbo levels are always the same between the mode groups.

At the Med levels, my numbers are definitely higher than any of Eagletac's published specs for these lights. I don't why the numbers are so off, but this explains the lower runtimes I observed on Med – my lights are all brighter than spec, and therefore don't run as long.

At the end of the day, the fundamental point remains that the D25 Clicky offerings all have excellent output/runtime efficiency at all levels. :thumbsup: It just seems that the absolute value of many of those levels is higher than the specs indicate.

*Potential Issues*

Flat-top cells won't work in the lights, due to the physical reverse-polarity protection. Only cells with small button-tops will work.

Due to the customized (and potentially voltage-restricted) circuits in each model, not all battery types may be fully supported. The D25C-series lights on 1xRCR loose Med/Hi/Turbo to direct-drive (at extremely high output). The multi-power D25LC2 doesn't get a true "moonlight" mode (just a slightly lower Lo/Med) in the second group.

Published ANSI FL-1 specs don't seem entirely accurate. Reported output level specs seem understated on Hi/Turbo levels (but runtimes are accurate). Med level output specs seem considerably understated (with runtime specs proportionately overstated). However, overall output/runtime efficiency remains excellent at all levels tested. See my runtime graphs (and comments above) for more information

Screw threads are not anodized for lockout on the D25A2 or D25LC2. However, the battery tubes are reversible, allowing you to switch the direction of the clip.

Mode memory (and the ability to toggle it off or on) was only available on my D25C and D25A2 models. It was not available on my D25LC2, and Eagletac reports it is not available on the D25A either.

There was some noticeable tint shifting at the default group 1 Lo level on some lights, consistent with current-control.

*Preliminary Observations*

To summarize this rather long round-up, the D25 Clicky line is a diverse, innovative, and very efficient series of flashlights from Eagletac. 

I am impressed by the relatively small size of the lights in this family. The builds were of consistent good quality, with good attention to detail. I quite like the nice touches like tinted stainless steel bezels, decent knurling, thoughtful clip designs and ergonomics, etc.

Performance is particularly impressive across the line, both for max output as well as overall efficiency at all levels, on all supported batteries. But there's a reason for that – each light model (and sometimes different emitter versions within a given model) has its own customized circuit. oo: This is quite different from most "family" series of lights, where identical heads/circuits are used between models to keep manufacturing costs down (and maximize lego-ability).

The high degree of customization here (along with a good base current-control circuit design to start with) is what allows Eagletac to squeeze out class-leading efficiencies in many categories. :thumbsup: But it also means some limitations (e.g., each circuit is optimized for a limited voltage range specific to only those supported cells). Please see my "General Output/Runtime Comments" and "Potential Issues" sections above for more of a discussion. 

One thing that people may find confusing is to having to choose between output level groups - i.e., the Lo/Med/Hi set as default, or the optional Moonlight/Med/Hi (where Med is slightly less output than the default group Med). Personally, I would just like to have seen a consistent Moonlight/Lo/Med/Hi and be done with it. 

At the end of the day, this incredibly wide degree of body, emitter and circuit customization gives you a lot of choices, in all battery classes. I can't recall seeing another series with so many available options (e.g., right down to cool and neutral tints). oo: But of course, that many options may be overwhelming for some (and may lead to shortages of specific models that are more popular than others). Finding proper specs and descriptions can also be an issue, so I recommend you check out the detailed sections of this review for more info on any particular model you are interested in. 

----

D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 were supplied by Eagletac for review.


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## jmpaul320

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

i have the d25c... great light... had a flickering issue, new head is on its way from eagle tac... they have great customer service!

great review!!


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## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

the D25A (1.2V Eneloop) is much much lower in output than any of the other D25 models (all of which run on 3.0V+ !!). maybe that's why Eagtac didnt supply it for review?

thanks for your efforts. it's been some time that selfbuilt reviewed an Eagtac torch. note that the T20C2 MkII can be equipped with a 626 ANSI lumens XML U2 LED module!! Maybe time has come to update your 2-year old review 

your D25 series review will get even more users hooked on the Eagtac's. Very attractive, stylish torches they are!!


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## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I'm always astonished and the level of detail, accuracy, and sheer time it must take for your reviews selfbuilt...very well done indeed! I was particularly interested in your results since I own the XM-L U2 versions of the D25C and D25LC2 clickys, with the Ti-D25C on the way (with a newer driver). The two things that also stands out to me is (1) the enormous output of these lights in such a small form factor with 16340's and 18650's respectivly which your data confirms, and (2) the excellent beam paterns and tints seeming almost neutral for an XM-L U2 emitter(s). Yes they are not perfect and I too am confused as to the different electronics driving each light (probably due to size limitations from model to model), but am truly impressed with what EagleTac has accomplished with these products.

Once again, thanks so much for your considerable time and effort in your reviews...I always learn so much from your testing and observations.


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## kaabob

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Great review, selfbuilt!

Finally the fog has been lifted over this mode selection thing -- it all seems so confusing on paper, especially because the modes differ between the models!


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## Erik1213

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Just wanted to add in, I have the EagleTac D25A clicky with a neutral white XP-G and on moonlight mode, there is very noticeable PWM. However, the only way to notice it is to look at the emitter and shake the light from side to side. Walking with the light doesn't show the PWM, I am assuming it is because the output is so low.


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## Bwolcott

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

are you kidding me the single rcr 123 version put out 770 lumens!now I want one bad!!!


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## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> the D25A (1.2V Eneloop) is much much lower in output than any of the other D25 models (all of which run on 3.0V+ !!). maybe that's why Eagtac didnt supply it for review?


Possibly, but more likely was lack of availability. This isn't the first time that a 1xAA version of a family was unavailable for review - in the real world, the 1xAA models seem to be among the hardest to keep in stock.



> thanks for your efforts. it's been some time that selfbuilt reviewed an Eagtac torch. note that the T20C2 MkII can be equipped with a 626 ANSI lumens XML U2 LED module!! Maybe time has come to update your 2-year old review


Yes, it has been awhile (although I did review the XM-L version of the M3C4 a year and half ago). No major reason, I just wasn't asked recently. Given the number of requests that I get from all manufacturers, I do not typically solicit lights for review (too little time - I typically have to turn down a fair number). 

In this case, I had received a number of requests from members here to review the G25C2, so I touched base with Eagletac. They had a shortage of that model, so asked if I would do the D25 Clickies instead. And here we are ... 

I presume the sample models they sent me reflect what they had available. Although I do notice everyone always likes to send cool white emitters (presumably for max output). 

Don't know what the G25C2 situation is like, but certainly willing to review that one.



cyclesport said:


> I'm always astonished and the level of detail, accuracy, and sheer time it must take for your reviews selfbuilt...very well done indeed!


Thanks, this was definitely a more complicated review, with all the differences between models. Probably my longest round-up review yet. :sweat:



> I too am confused as to the different electronics driving each light (probably due to size limitations from model to model), but am truly impressed with what EagleTac has accomplished with these products.


Possibly, but I suspect it is more a conscious choice to optimize the performance of each specific model. When you use a common circuit across body builds, you inevitably play to a bit of the "lowest common demominator." Not all the lights will take avantage of the full voltage range of the common circuit, which is fine - but you take an efficiency hit for every extra "unused" feature (e.g., boost and buck is less efficient than just boost, etc.)



kaabob said:


> Finally the fog has been lifted over this mode selection thing -- it all seems so confusing on paper, especially because the modes differ between the models!


Thanks. I presume you mean from the video? I tried to describe it clearly in the UI section, but sometimes it is just easier to show it in use. It is not as complicated as it sounds on paper. Part of the problem is our limited vocabulary (i.e., is that group or a set? is that different from a series? or an option? or a selection? aargh ....). :laughing:



Erik1213 said:


> Just wanted to add in, I have the EagleTac D25A clicky with a neutral white XP-G and on moonlight mode, there is very noticeable PWM. However, the only way to notice it is to look at the emitter and shake the light from side to side. Walking with the light doesn't show the PWM, I am assuming it is because the output is so low.


That's likely some sort circuit flicker. There is no PWM to speak of on any mode I examined. But flicker is always possible, depending on the tolerances of the components at lower currents. I will double-check all my samples to see if I can notice any.

_EDIT: Just double-checked, and all my lights are firmly flicker-free on their moonlight/lowest Lo mode. It's likely you have a problem sample. It can be difficult to reliably produce current-control at low currents, and I've seen other makers have issues on this front. If it is distracting, you might want to consider a RMA._



Bwolcott said:


> are you kidding me the single rcr 123 version put out 770 lumens!now I want one bad!!!


Well, not for long - and that is too high a drive current for regular ICR Li-ion, only IMR cels would be able to handle it. I also doubt the emitter/circuit would last long from repeated use. Eagletac's warning about cooling and limited use with frequent periods of rest should be well heeded. :candle:


----------



## biglights

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



kaabob said:


> Great review, selfbuilt!
> 
> I don't think this can be said enough!!! As always top notch info.


----------



## orbital

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

+

One complaint about this review,
selfbuilt,, how on earth will future reviews be better than this one?!...


:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

btw, I'm an early adopter to the D25LC2 Twisty/neutral, *I'll never part with it.*


----------



## djans1397

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

WHAT! Are you serious?! Who seriously goes to the trouble of using a clicky on their ligts only to make it a REVERSE clicky? I appologize as it might just be me, but come one! I love the momentary feature that the forward clicky offers. I was excited to try the Eagletac clicky series out and have been waiting for these to come out. Unless they offer a tactical switch for these like 4sevens did for theirs, I think I'll pass 

Nice review though selfbuilt. Very thorough as always and much appreciated. 

Thanks,
Dan


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I miss the forward clicky feature also, but the amount of light out of the tiny D25LC2 is way to nice to worry about the clicky for me.

By the way Selfbuilt, great review. However I believe in your video you demonstrate the "memory" feature in the D25LC2 and how it will always come on at the last output setting. You only show it coming on on low. This is where it will always default to. There is no memory if you shut it off on medium. Where you turn it back on it is still on low. No memory.
I don't have my booklet handy but I am pretty sure it says that this feature is not availble on the D25LC2 model. I will double check the wording when I get home.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



djans1397 said:


> Unless they offer a tactical switch for these like 4sevens


no torch is perfect, i agree i would have preferred a torch with tactical momentary activation. when mode selection is done thru the tail clicky only (either reverse clicky or forward clicky, doesnt matter), then we always lose the ability to send in morse code (_cp. _Fenix LD20 or all Zebralights). If we want to have a tactical switch (_cp._ Jetbeam BA20, Klarus P2A, Quark), then mode selection has to be done thru twisting the head. Only few (and typically expensive) lights have a UI which successfully combines a forward clicky with head position and head twisting operation (_cp._ Eagtac T-series).

the D25C/D25A would be perfect imho if it was .. basically a Quark:
+ reversible pocket clip
+ tactical momentary activation
+ full support for Li-Ion's with buck boost driver (and no eaten modes)
+ mode memory on the D25A
+ large selection of accessories (Fenix accessories fit the Quark!)

but then again why would i want a D25 if it works like a Quark Tactical -- we already own a Quark, dont we? The D25's UI resembles the UI of the Quark Regular and the Fenix LD20 and neither of them has tactical momentary activation. None of the Zebralights have it!

so i am thinking that the features set of the D25 is en par with the competition, and if one likes Titanium, then worth considering a purchase.


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

So I looked at the manual and it does say 'not on the D25A'. So I guess my confusion is based in the fact that I can't get any memory function to work. I do the three twists as described but the light will only come on on the low setting.
Should it not work for medium also? Selfbuilt, can you get it to do so for a level other than low?


----------



## frosty

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Yet another outstanding review. Thanks.


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I'm curious as to your opinion selfbuilt. You commented that the emitter/circuit might not last long from repeated use on the XM-L U2 version of the D25C. Could you venture an educated guess on this light's longevity if the light is used frequently with 16340 3.7v Li-ion's in turbo (750+ lumens) for 10 to 40 seconds at a time never letting the light get uncomfortable to hold? Having two of these used in this manner, I'm concerned I may be dramatically shortening their lives?


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Hi all, thanks for the support. :grouphug:

I made an error in the original report - the D25LC2 _does_ have a second group of lower output modes, they are just not as low as the other lights. So, while the D25LC2 doesn't have a "moonlight" mode per se, switching to the second set does work (with Lo and Med both a bit lower). Note you are not likely to notice this by eye (which is why I missed it at first!), but my lightbox confirms a second group of Lo/Med is there. Here's the update table from the review:








orbital said:


> One complaint about this review,
> selfbuilt,, how on earth will future reviews be better than this one?!...


I don't plan to repeat this mamoth exercise if I can help it  ... hopefully future model series will have less diversity to have to measure and report on.



djans1397 said:


> WHAT! Are you serious?! Who seriously goes to the trouble of using a clicky on their ligts only to make it a REVERSE clicky?


It's not surprising to me - forward clickies (by their physical nature) are bigger switches. If you want to incorporate a clicky into a small slim-lined design (and keep tailstanding), reverse clicky is the only way to go. :shrug:



loquutis79 said:


> However I believe in your video you demonstrate the "memory" feature in the D25LC2 and how it will always come on at the last output setting. You only show it coming on on low. This is where it will always default to. There is no memory if you shut it off on medium. Where you turn it back on it is still on low. No memory.





loquutis79 said:


> So I guess my confusion is based in the fact that I can't get any memory function to work. I do the three twists as described but the light will only come on on the low setting.
> Should it not work for medium also? Selfbuilt, can you get it to do so for a level other than low?


You are right - the mode memory is not working on my D25LC2 either. But it does work on both my D25C and D25A2 models. Odd (the manuals only say the D25A is missing it). :shrug:

BTW, I realize I forgot to explain this in the review initially - but model memory is actually a toggle-able feature. On all my models, it came set as off by default. To activate mode memory, do three loosen-tighten head twists (from tight) while on. Do it again to toggle off. I've just added that point to the UI section.



cyclesport said:


> I'm curious as to your opinion selfbuilt. You commented that the emitter/circuit might not last long from repeated use on the XM-L U2 version of the D25C. Could you venture an educated guess on this light's longevity if the light is used frequently with 16340 3.7v Li-ion's in turbo (750+ lumens) for 10 to 40 seconds at a time never letting the light get uncomfortable to hold? Having two of these used in this manner, I'm concerned I may be dramatically shortening their lives?


It is really hard to say. Those kind of maximal direct-drive levels are definitely not recommended or good for the emitters. There was some concern when 10440 Li-ions started to be used in some keychain lights that you could suffer from thermal runaway, potentially destroying the emitters rather quickly (and unpredictably). Not sure how much of that was theoretical.

Practically, it is clear that sustained heat (in a small body unable to effectively transfer it) is bad for emitters. If you used judiciously, for brief periods to time to point that the light doesn't get too warm, you are probably going to be ok.  But no guarantees here - it's really hard to know what the emitter/circuit tolerances are for this kind of use/abuse. :shrug:


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I orderd a D25LC2 (18650 XM-L U2) a couple days ago before this review. It looked to be smaller than my Spark SL6 800cw but just about as bright. It looks like this data confirmed that.. especially since Turbo on my Spark only works with very freshly charged 18650 batts and only for a very very short time.. so mostly the highest I get from it is ''high'', not ''turbo'' anyway. Looks like my new EDC.


----------



## zenbeam

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I've been enjoying the selfbuilt reviews the past couple of short months that I've fallen to flashaholism and would like to say thank you selfbuilt for all your hard work in bringing out all these great details, technical observations and measurements and general overviews of the lights that we might not otherwise not know enough about to make sound purchase decisions (was that sentence long enough to make a point?).

I really love my EagleTacs in spite of a spotty experience while early adopting a new clicky. I still wound up with a clicky-verty tube for D25C and love it! I think EagleTac has a great series on their hands with D-series in either twisty or clicky flavors!

Once again thanks for this excellent work and all your previous reviews. You are a credit to the illuminated!


----------



## biglights

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I second this ^^^^^^


----------



## Edge Tactical

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I love my D25C clicky.......what a pocket rocket!


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks for the support guys. And for the newer members, :welcome:



BWX said:


> I orderd a D25LC2 (18650 XM-L U2) a couple days ago before this review. It looked to be smaller than my Spark SL6 800cw but just about as bright. It looks like this data confirmed that.. especially since Turbo on my Spark only works with very freshly charged 18650 batts and only for a very very short time.. so mostly the highest I get from it is ''high'', not ''turbo'' anyway. Looks like my new EDC.


Yes, my Spark SL6 is about the same brightness initially. The D25LC2 drops down less than the Spark does, after the timed step-down. Interestingly the SL6's Hi mode is almost about the same as the D25LC2's. The SL6 does have more throw, of course.

But keep in mind my Spark SL6 review is almost a year old, and my sample only had a T6 output bin. There may have been improvements on the model since then.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Yeah I think my SL6 is the T6 too.. I'm sure I'll be happy with the D25LC2 from what your saying.. It'll fit my use perfectly. I have bigger badder lights for more throw/power etc. I love the size to output ratio on the D25LC2 more than anything!


----------



## melty

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Yowza! Thanks for the awesome review Selfbuilt!

The D25LC2 was my first light. I really like it, but I wish I had gone for the neutral tint instead of cool white (now that I have some warmer lights). The D25C neutral looks like it might be my next purchase. Surprising that it is both dimmer AND brighter than the D25LC2! If anything could improve the D25LC2 it would be a firefly mode.


----------



## jhc37013

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Excellent review their selfbuilt, top shelf stuff for sure thanks for all the time and effort for all our members.

I have the D25LC2 Clicky and it's the second best 18650 EDC light I have, second to the SC600 however for it's size and weight the D25LC2 is second to none.

When I first got my D25LC2 Clicky I thought I had a bad sample because it did not have a memory mode no matter how many times I did the head twist and also it did not have memory, like you said the manual says only the D25A is not suppose to have these features. After talking with some other members and trial and effort I found out my light was fine it just functioned a little different than I anticipated.

So to further elaborate on D25LC2 the moonlight mode is not really a moonlight mode more of a energy saving mode, enabling the moonlight mode drops the low a little but it's still not moonlight mode, also medium is lower while high stays the same. The best way to see a difference is to do a ceiling bounce test, it's easier to see the difference in the two different medium modes (m1/m2) but it's a lot tougher to see the difference with the two different lows (L1/L2) but you can see if you look hard enough while doing the ceiling bounce test if you focus on an object on the floor in a corner of the room.

There is no memory mode on D25LC2 as you mention, if you have the light on in medium if you turn if off for longer than 1.5secs it will come back on in low. However it does sort of have a memory because it does remember if you have the moonlight mode toggled off or on.

So if you like the slightly brighter low1 and med2 it will keep that memorized after you turn the light off, alternatively if you enable moonlight mode for the slightly dimmer low2 and med2 it will keep that memorized as well.

It would have been nice if the D25LC2 had a true moonlight mode but all things considered it's still one off the best 18650 EDC light's out there right now.


----------



## kj2

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks for the review 
No Eagletac for me, no support for flat-18650 head  -and the 2AA version, is just like mine Fenix E21.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



kj2 said:


> No Eagletac for me, no support for flat-18650 head  -and the 2AA version, is just like mine Fenix E21.


Yes, the lack of flat-top support will be an issue for some.

But I'm surprised about the Fenix E21. On Max, my D25A2 (XP-G S2) has about twice the initial output of my E21 (XP-E R3), and exactly the same runtime on NiMH. On the E21, you also only get two modes (i.e. you also have a much wider range of modes on the D25A2). But the E21 still manages better throw, thanks to its larger head and smaller emitter ... I presume that's why you find them equivalent?


----------



## kj2

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> Yes, the lack of flat-top support will be an issue for some.
> 
> But I'm surprised about the Fenix E21. On Max, my D25A2 (XP-G S2) has about twice the initial output of my E21 (XP-E R3), and exactly the same runtime on NiMH. On the E21, you also only get two modes (i.e. you also have a much wider range of modes on the D25A2). But the E21 still manages better throw, thanks to its larger head and smaller emitter ... I presume that's why you find them equivalent?


I like throw indeed


----------



## zenbeam

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

And if I may, as a relative newbie flashaholic, I'd like to offer my interpretation of the term "moonlight" mode. I may be entirely wrong, but I think some folks are thinking of "firefly" mode when the term "moonlight" mode is referenced. 

It seems that I've understood the following (primarily from readings in CPF, but subject to change and totally open to correction! lol):

*Moonlight Mode =*
Rather low lumens (10, 7, 5, 3, etc.) for generalized low light needs such as night vision preservation, night reading, generalized battery conservation and so forth.

*Firefly Mode =*
Ultra low lumens (3, 1, .5, .03, etc.) primarily for _extreme_ runtime needs such as elevator entrapment, lost in wilderness, map reading, and so on. 

So in my mind, when I did briefly own a D25LC2 Clicky, it did have a "moonlight" mode. 


Disclaimer: I may be totally wrong, but at the chance of utterly embarrassing myself, if my unusual observations can help clarify an item of curiosity or contention or even inspire a different way of viewing a subject.... then that risk I shall shamelessly sometimes take! Hey! I should put this statement in my signature once I realize there's not exactly a whole lot of point in listing my lights there anyway.


----------



## melty

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



zenbeam said:


> And if I may, as a relative newbie flashaholic, I'd like to offer my interpretation of the term "moonlight" mode. I may be entirely wrong, but I think some folks are thinking of "firefly" mode when the term "moonlight" mode is referenced.
> 
> It seems that I've understood the following (primarily from readings in CPF, but subject to change and totally open to correction! lol):
> 
> *Moonlight Mode =*
> Rather low lumens (10, 7, 5, 3, etc.) for generalized low light needs such as night vision preservation, night reading, generalized battery conservation and so forth.
> 
> *Firefly Mode =*
> Ultra low lumens (3, 1, .5, .03, etc.) primarily for _extreme_ runtime needs such as elevator entrapment, lost in wilderness, map reading, and so on.
> 
> So in my mind, when I did briefly own a D25LC2 Clicky, it did have a "moonlight" mode.
> 
> 
> Disclaimer: I may be totally wrong, but at the chance of utterly embarrassing myself, if my unusual observations can help clarify an item of curiosity or contention or even inspire a different way of viewing a subject.... then that risk I shall shamelessly sometimes take! Hey! I should put this statement in my signature once I realize there's not exactly a whole lot of point in listing my lights there anyway.



There's not an official definition (AFAIK) of the terms "moonlight" or "firefly." I'm pretty sure it's just semantics. I equate the term "moonlight" with "sub-lumen". The times I have seen "firefly" it has been used to describe output below 0.1 lumens.

Selfbuilt measured the "moon" low on the D25LC2 to be 15 lumens. Mine is bright enough to be seen shining on the wall 20' across a fully lit room, definitely not what most would consider moonlight. The D25C on the other hand has a 0.5 lumen moon low which I would consider a true moonlight mode. But again... semantics... no true Scotsman... :shrug:

All I know is that I blow out my eyeballs if I turn on the LC2 after being in a pitch-black room for several minutes.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



zenbeam said:


> And if I may, as a relative newbie flashaholic, I'd like to offer my interpretation of the term "moonlight" mode. I may be entirely wrong, but I think some folks are thinking of "firefly" mode when the term "moonlight" mode is referenced.


As melty said, it is largely a question of semantics. But in my experience, most people mean the same thing by "moonlight" or "firefly" mode - that is, less than 1 lumen (preferrably considerably less). The terms are really used interchangeably here.

The first instance of "moonlight" that I can recall was the 4Sevens Quark line (0.2 lumens "moonlight" reported). This was used to differentiate it from the traditional "lo" modes of Fenix and other makers, which typically were in the low single to double-digit lumen range.

Similarly, I don't think most here would accept "firefly" to be anything more than a fractional lumen. 

I know it may not sound like much, but even a couple of lumens will seem blindingly bright to you with dark adapted eyes. IMO, the D25LC2's Lo modes would not qualify as "moonlight" by a long-shot.


----------



## MichaelW

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

What about [power on] operating 'memory'?
On my Fenix, if I switch from regular to Turbo, and then loosen the head, it resets to low regardless. With 4Sevens it reverts to the mode you had before initiating turbo.
What does the D25LC2 do?
and what is the CCT of the neutral xm-l and xp-g? Is there really a 4300K T6


----------



## jhc37013

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



MichaelW said:


> What about operating 'memory'?
> On my Fenix, if I switch from regular to Turbo, and then loosen the head, it resets to low regardless. With 4Sevens it reverts to the mode you had before initiating turbo.
> What does the D25LC2 do?
> and what is the CCT of the neutral xm-l and xp-g? Is there really a 4300K T6



The D25LC2 works like your Fenix and goes back into low no matter what you had it on before, I've been thinking the same thing though and wish the Eagletac did work like the Quarks with that General mode memory or what you called operating memory and to me that is a better UI than typical "mode memory" on light's with a reverse clicky and tighten head for turbo.

I will add though that high is so close to being as bright as Turbo that I really never think to twist into turbo mode.


----------



## BLUE LED

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

After reading your review, I tried to buy the D25C S2, but couldn't find it anywhere. I bought the U2 version and wondered where I can buy the S2 version. I like throw


----------



## jhc37013

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> As melty said, it is largely a question of semantics. But in my experience, most people mean the same thing by "moonlight" or "firefly" mode - that is, less than 1 lumen (preferrably considerably less). The terms are really used interchangeably here.
> 
> The first instance of "moonlight" that I can recall was the 4Sevens Quark line (0.2 lumens "moonlight" reported). This was used to differentiate it from the traditional "lo" modes of Fenix and other makers, which typically were in the low single to double-digit lumen range.



Not wanting to get to far off topic but I'm with you I'm not sure I can recall the term moonlight mode before 4sevens and IIRC didn't Thrunite come out with the Firefly mode in the Scorpion. Which ever way we want to call it I consider moonlight less than 1 lumen depending on the reflector, if it's a deep reflector then 1 lumen can seem brighter but a shallow OP reflector can have a litter more total output and get away with calling it a moonlight mode.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



jhc37013 said:


> and wish the Eagletac did work like the Quarks with that General mode memory


we cant have it all, i guess. i was about to order the D25C only because it had mode memory (and is much brighter) .. but the D25A has to be bright with 14500 too and is more light-weight (24g vs 29g) and slimmer. the proportions look better imho. 

ok, we cant have it all but we have at least the option to get some Titanium!!
*Eagtac Titanium Clicky*


----------



## zenbeam

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks melty and selfbuilt. I will adapt my understanding of these terms to what is more commonly accepted in the crowd. I think I picked up some of my perception from manufacturer's product descriptions as well. But the kewl thing I am picking up on is that the user crowd (largely the population of CPF) actually dictates what is or isn't in flashlight tech and terminology - which the manufacturers then strive to provide. :thumbsup:



selfbuilt said:


> As melty said, it is largely a question of semantics. But in my experience, most people mean the same thing by "moonlight" or "firefly" mode - that is, less than 1 lumen (preferrably considerably less). The terms are really used interchangeably here.
> 
> The first instance of "moonlight" that I can recall was the 4Sevens Quark line (0.2 lumens "moonlight" reported). This was used to differentiate it from the traditional "lo" modes of Fenix and other makers, which typically were in the low single to double-digit lumen range.
> 
> Similarly, I don't think most here would accept "firefly" to be anything more than a fractional lumen.
> 
> I know it may not sound like much, but even a couple of lumens will seem blindingly bright to you with dark adapted eyes. IMO, the D25LC2's Lo modes would not qualify as "moonlight" by a long-shot.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Mine worked for 5 minutes then stopped going into any low modes :-[ It just acted like head was tightened. I called eagletac and we tried the regular stuff, but it's cool because they're sending me one out and I don't have to wait for mine to get to them first.

Oh well, just got unlucky. The little sucker's bright as hell though! Nice quality feeling light. Eagletac were super cool about it though so I'm still happy. Will probably get new one Monday.


----------



## MichaelW

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Another question, this time about 'positional memory'.
Seeing as this has a LOT of modes in the general mode [head loose], does the flashlight revert to the first selection of steady state output after some set time, or does it alway follow the exact same cycle procedure?
Let me expound: if the outputs go as such A->B->C->A->B->C->Strobe->Strobe->Flash->SOS->SOS->Beacon->Flash If you selected the second C setting, but used that for five minutes, would the next press be Strobe, or would it go to A?
Going to A would be more useful.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



MichaelW said:


> Another question, this time about 'positional memory'.
> Let me expound: if the outputs go as such A->B->C->A->B->C->Strobe->Strobe->Flash->SOS->SOS->Beacon->Flash If you selected the second C setting, but used that for five minutes, would the next press be Strobe, or would it go to A?
> Going to A would be more useful.


Good question. I don't have the lights in front of me, but I recall it does have 'positional memory' of at least a few seconds. I recall turning one of the lights of in "second C" once, and when I turned back on after a couple of seconds (not long), it continue along to strobe when I tried switching modes. But I didn't set out to measure the interval, so I'm not sure how long it is. I'll take a look when I get the chance ... anyone else already try it?

_EDIT: I just checked, and if memory mode is set to on, it continually recalls that you are in the second "C" (for example) and advances to the strobe modes. Even if you turn it off for a min or two - when you come back on, you are still in the second "C" in its memory, and will advance to strobe next._


----------



## Up All Night

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Stellar review, as always. Thank you. It's amazing how people migrate from an existing thread once you post a review, a testament to the cachet you have on these forums!
I've owned the LC2 XM-L for a week now and it does have impressive output, very close to my ZL sc600. Hard to discern "low" from "lower low" but after several attempts with several sets of eyes and several derogatory verbal exchanges a consensus was reached. The term "moonlight" does not apply!
Overall, hard not to like this torch and size/output ratio is right up there.

My only quibble with it (my sample) is the ensemble of crickets that perform loudly & proudly on all of the flashing modes! It's my first "noisy" torch. I can hear the circuit cycle when I'm twenty feet away! I guess the modes are for visual & auditory recognition! (at least for me)

Since I don't really use such modes it's a non-issue and Eagletac says it's not a problem for the light, unless I decide It's annoying in which case they will swap out the circuit board. I would have preferred them to say "exchange the light" but I like the tint and I don't want to play that lottery!


----------



## moshow9

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



jhc37013 said:


> Not wanting to get to far off topic but I'm with you I'm not sure I can recall the term moonlight mode before 4sevens and IIRC didn't Thrunite come out with the Firefly mode in the Scorpion. Which ever way we want to call it I consider moonlight less than 1 lumen depending on the reflector, if it's a deep reflector then 1 lumen can seem brighter but a shallow OP reflector can have a litter more total output and get away with calling it a moonlight mode.


I believe ThruNite first used firefly with the Neutron.


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Wow! D25C XM-L U2

770 lumens, only 3", a great screw-on deep clip, $50 shipped, NW too !

Hail to the new King baby !








Thanks for another excellent review.
I really appreciate your hard work.

I use AW IMR or ICR 16340 cells depending, so Ima wondering:

You tested with AW IMR 16340 because?

Was the AW ICR 16340 discharge rate too high?

Do you have data for the D25C XM-L U2 like this :







Eagletac's website says: 

"Turbo boost technology is activated every time you turn on at Turbo output setting. 
It offers 20% more power to the LED for the first 90 seconds at turbo mode."

Does that even apply to the RCR123 since it is in Direct Drive operation?


----------



## jhc37013

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



MichaelW said:


> Another question, this time about 'positional memory'.
> Seeing as this has a LOT of modes in the general mode [head loose], does the flashlight revert to the first selection of steady state output after some set time, or does it alway follow the exact same cycle procedure?
> Let me expound: if the outputs go as such A->B->C->A->B->C->Strobe->Strobe->Flash->SOS->SOS->Beacon->Flash If you selected the second C setting, but used that for five minutes, would the next press be Strobe, or would it go to A?
> Going to A would be more useful.



There is no "timed" step through the modes so the second time you go through the modes after "C" it will be strobe it does not matter how long you stay in C mode, the only way out of this is to turn the light off for a couple seconds then back on.


----------



## Mjolnir

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Just got an XML D25LC2 after not buying any new lights for a while. It seems very bright but has no throw; it has a nice flood type beam pattern that should be good for general use.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

FYI, EagleTac has gotten back to me on my analysis and review. They agree their output ANSI lumen specs are under-estimated. They say they will calibrate their integrating sphere soon to better reflect the actual output (not sure what that means exactly). They also say that for the lo/med output, they plan to tune the mcu to better reflect the intended output in the upcoming batch. They also claim to have resolved the tail-stand issue for the upcoming production units.



GordoJones88 said:


> *You tested with AW IMR 16340 because ?
> 
> Was the AW ICR 16340 discharge rate too high?*


*
More to the point, i expected the discharge rate would be too high for standard ICR chemistry RCR, based on the extreme output. Given the results, I don’t plan to use or test ICR RCR in these lights.





Eagletac's website says: 

"Turbo boost technology is activated every time you turn on at Turbo output setting. 
It offers 20% more power to the LED for the first 90 seconds at turbo mode."

Does that even apply to the RCR123 since it is in Direct Drive operation?

Click to expand...

No, that only applies to primary cells in this case. As you can see in my runtimes, there is no regulation on RCR - you are in apparent direct drive.*


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Great stuff Selfbuilt!
So does this mean the next run of lights will have a much lower output level for the moonlight setting, cause that would be a good thing.
And also the tailstand feature will work better 
And does this mean I can have mine exchanged for the real thing?? (Did I go to far with the last question?)


----------



## JudasD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

So now the decision on a D25C is either flood or throw. Dang, to bad a single unit cant have both. I suppose since i already have a V11R and a SC600 that a D25C in XP-G would make for a nice pocket thrower.

JD


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



JudasD said:


> So now the decision on a D25C is either flood or throw. Dang, to bad a single unit cant have both. I suppose since i already have a V11R and a SC600 that a D25C in XP-G would make for a nice pocket thrower.
> 
> JD




You must be our guninea pig and buy the new XTE version of the D25C.
Here is a pic from Eagletac's website showing the beamshots.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



loquutis79 said:


> So does this mean the next run of lights will have a much lower output level for the moonlight setting, cause that would be a good thing. And also the tailstand feature will work better
> And does this mean I can have mine exchanged for the real thing?? (Did I go to far with the last question?)


I am just relaying the response I received as to their intent. Whether or not they succeed in changing anything is impossible to know at this time (and on what models, etc.). Time will tell. But note that manufacturers make minor circuit adjustments all the time (without necessarily calling attention to those changes). This is especially true after reviews come out, and is basically part of their responsiveness to community feedback (i.e., models often continue to evolve over time). But I always suggest you take any proposed changes with a grain of salt until independently verified (i.e., the if, when, and how to tell aspects of any circuit tweak are impossible to know ahead of time).


----------



## JudasD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



GordoJones88 said:


> You must be our guninea pig and buy the new XTE version of the D25C.
> Here is a pic from Eagletac's website showing the beamshots.



awww man, not another choice :mecry: choosing between 2 models was difficult already. Now with a 3rd, ugh. I sure wish EagleTac's website was a bit better. I cant get the pages to completely load on either of my machines.

JD


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



GordoJones88 said:


> You must be our guninea pig and buy the new XTE version of the D25C.
> Here is a pic from Eagletac's website showing the beamshots.


I have no personal knowledge of the XT-E emitter version, but I gathered from other commentary here on CPF that these were pulled from dealer inventory due to beam pattern issues? So, while they still show up on Eagletac's site, all merchants appear to list them as out-of-stock.

Again, I have NO knowledge of the status of XT-E lights, and have not discussed this with Eagletac. But looking at those posted beashots, I recall similar issues with the Golden Dragon Plus versions of the early Nitecore D10/EX10 series light. Specifically, there were a lot of tint shifts over the beam that people objected to. That version of the light was eventually dropped from the D10/EX10 line (even though they had less beam rings than the XR-Es they were meant to replace).


----------



## sspc

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Excellent review!!! Thanks for breaking down the modes as it is truly confusing just going off the spec data.

Question: any idea how the d25c would run on a Tenergy 3.0 900mah rcr123? This is the batt with a fully charged voltage of 3.6v so Im curious if you maintain all modes with this batt.

I don't know if the 900 mah rating is accurate but it is reported to be higher than the 500mah you get from the lifep04.

My goal is to run the d25c on rechargables without sacrificing the run time the lifepo4 would or sacrificing the different modes a standard rcr123 would. Could the the 900 mah Tenergy (model 30202) run the D25c without losing modes and without concerns of overheating if running too long on turbo?

Thanks!


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



GordoJones88 said:


> You must be our guninea pig and buy the new XTE version of the D25C.
> Here is a pic from Eagletac's website showing the beamshots.



oops, i didnt know that such a webpage existed!! There are plenty of them which cant be found that easily, so here all about the D25A i could find:

D25A Mini:
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25am/index.html (introduction)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25am/specs.html (specs overview)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25am/features/output.html (beamshots)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25am/features/efficiency.html (efficiency)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25am/features/control.html (control, video)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25am/features/details.html (attention to details)
http://www.eagletac.com/download/gallery/d25amstd.zip (pics)
http://www.eagletac.com/download/gallery/d25amhd.zip (pics HD)
http://www.eagletac.com/download/readme/d25m.pdf (download manual)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d_series/compare-d-series/index.html (D25A Mini compared to other D25 Mini's)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/compare-all-series/index.html (D25A Mini compared to other series)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d_series/d25_mini_series.html (Mini series overview)

D25A Mini Ti:
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25ti/features/index.html (overview)
http://www.eagletac.com/download/gallery/d25amti_std.zip (pics)
http://www.eagletac.com/download/gallery/d25amti_hd.zip (pics HD)

D25A Clicky:
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25arc/index.html (introduction)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25arc/specs.html (specs overview)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25arc/features/output.html (beamshots)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25arc/features/efficiency.html (efficiency)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25arc/features/control.html (control, video)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25arc/features/details.html (attention to details)
http://www.eagletac.com/download/gallery/d25arcstd.zip (pics)
http://www.eagletac.com/download/gallery/d25archd.zip (pics HD)
http://www.eagletac.com/download/readme/d25rc.pdf (download manual)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d_series/compare-d-rc-series/index.html (D25A Clicky compared to other D25 Clicky's)
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d_series/d25_clicky_series.html (Clicky series overview)

D25A Clicky Ti:
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25tirc/features/index.html (overview)
http://www.eagletac.com/download/gallery/d25arcti_std.zip (pics)
http://www.eagletac.com/download/gallery/d25arcti_hd.zip (pics HD)

This is just amazing!! Great job from Eagtac's part of providing details on 1 specific model. Typically a manufacturer dedicates only 1 webpage (1 URL) to the description of 1 specific model.


----------



## JudasD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

WOW! EagleTac's webpage would be awesome if they could just fix the navigation issues. I've tried Firefox, IE, safari and Dolphin. All on two different PCs and a smartphone! None of those browsers correctly render the navigation options. You pretty much have to google the primary URL to find any of the links. 

JD


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



sspc said:


> Question: any idea how the d25c would run on a Tenergy 3.0 900mah rcr123? This is the batt with a fully charged voltage of 3.6v so Im curious if you maintain all modes with this batt.


That's a good question. It's possible you may maintain modes on a 3V Li-ion (although perhaps only once some of the charge has been drained off). I don't have any to test, so don't know. Would be interesting to find out.

And on the issue of the website, I too found it difficult to navitage on Firefox. I basically resorted to google as well to get the first detailed specs page, and then manually changed the URL to bring up each specific model. :shrug:


----------



## jhc37013

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I run Firefox 12.0 and have no problem on Eagletac's website.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25lc2rc/features/output.html -- Works on PS3 browser!


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



jhc37013 said:


> I run Firefox 12.0 and have no problem on Eagletac's website.


Yes, it is working fine for me today as well (same Firefox version). But when preparing this review, I found I wasn't able to bring all the models up from the main page, and clicking the technical specs link often did nothing. The full functionality seems to be there today, though.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

My replacement D25LC2 just got here.. works fine except once in a while with head loose it will blink and go into tubo/strobe if head is touched or wobbles a little. Not confidence inspiring.

Edit... 

Oh and I figured out what smells bad- it's the lube. I noticed the first one had a bad smell, I thought maybe something inside it fried actually. I noticed a really strong burnt- nasty odor. Eagletac said that is normal. 

I got my new one and noticed same foul stench. I realised that it was the lube, and it also seemed dirty.. Like the lube was contaminated with something. Anyway I got out the alcohol, paper towels, Q-tips, ans SuperLube. After cleaning 95% of the factory lube off, then further cleaning all surfaces with alcohol, then letting it dry and lightly re-lubing with SuperLube, it works much smoother and doesn't stink any more. Actually it seems yo work better too, when it ''head loose'' mode, it stays there. 

If your D25 stinks, clean thoroughly and re-lube!


----------



## sspc

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> That's a good question. It's possible you may maintain modes on a 3V Li-ion (although perhaps only once some of the charge has been drained off). I don't have any to test, so don't know. Would be interesting to find out.
> 
> And on the issue of the website, I too found it difficult to navitage on Firefox. I basically resorted to google as well to get the first detailed specs page, and then manually changed the URL to bring up each specific model. :shrug:


Thank you selfbuilt!!


----------



## phips

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Great review, especially your work on the brightness/runtime graphs.
I am pretty sure I will order the D25LC2 based on your recommendation concerning its efficiency.

Do you think it would be possible to set the flashlight to my needs (no mode memory, moonlight group) and then lockout the turbo/strobe group with a piece of paper/plastic in between the head and body?


----------



## phips

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I guess I will find that out myself... just ordered one 
Thanks again for helping me make an informed choice!


----------



## biglights

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



phips said:


> I guess I will find that out myself... just ordered one
> Thanks again for helping me make an informed choice!



Very good choice, I have the neutral version and use it all the time. :twothumbs


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

the Titanium clickies should have the same performance as the aluminum clickies, right?
the lowest global shipping i could find was with Tod from Illuminationgear so i ordered the *D25A Clicky Ti*. please anyone keep us posted when they are officially available and in stock. there are so many Titanium twisties (and stainless steel twisties) on the market by Olight, iTP, 4Sevens, Klarus, Fenix, and the earlier Eagletac D25 Mini Ti series that it's a relief to have a small light in titanium with a clicky. i like Titanium, but Titanium twisties i dont like!

Now we need to find out if the D25A2 head can be lego'ed with the D25A body!


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



phips said:


> I am pretty sure I will order the D25LC2 based on your recommendation concerning its efficiency.
> Do you think it would be possible to set the flashlight to my needs (no mode memory, moonlight group) and then lockout the turbo/strobe group with a piece of paper/plastic in between the head and body?


Well, the D25LC2 differs from the other members in that there is no mode memory option (like the D25A, apparently). This means the light always comes on in the Lo setting when in the head-loosened state. But of course, it does remember which of the two mode groups you choose (i.e., the default Lo or the moonlight Lo group) - that kind of memory works fine. But as for moonlight group, in this case it is hardly "moonlight" in practice - while lower than the default Lo, it is not as low as the other members of this family. If that's what you want, sure, it can operate that way.

As for the locking out the head-tightened modes, I suppose that should be possible with some sort of non-conductive washer in the way of the body tube (i.e., a thin plastic spacer, or maybe an o-ring). Experiment and see, I guess. :wave:


----------



## BLUE LED

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I thought that I would like the memory on the D25C clicky U2, but after using it I am no longer a fan. I am AW IMR 16340 and put it on the lower mode setting. I have lost medium mode, but that doesn't bother me. I can now go from low to high very quickly


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I found something very annoying with these lights that seems like a huge oversight and that will probably get fixed in later versions.

In ''head loosened'' mode, you go through two rounds of low, medium, high to get to supposed ''hidden'' strobe modes, etc.

Well those annoying strobe modes aren't hidden at all, they pop up constantly.

For instance on my 4sevens Preon2. Low- medium- high- low- medium- high.. PAUSE for a few seconds... then back to low, medium, high.

On the D25LC2.. Head loosened- Low, medium, high, low, medium, high.. PAUSE for 5 MINUTES.. next half click... STROBE!! What??? 

So strobe modes aren't hidden at all, and no matter how long you wait, if you go through 2 rounds of low, medium, high- the next half click is strobe, and then all the other 8 blinking modes. 

How could they not see that as a huge issue? It's a real hassle when using this light almost every time I use it. What the hell were they thinking?


edit.. Oh I see it has been discussed post 39 and 40, 44.. Not sure why I missed that before. I guess no light is perfect, but this makes it go from a light I want to edc and use all the time to a light that annoys me to no end 90% of the time.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> In ''head loosened'' mode, you go through two rounds of low, medium, high to get to supposed ''hidden'' strobe modes, etc.
> Well those annoying strobe modes aren't hidden at all, they pop up constantly.


You are quite right - with mode memory enabled, the strobe modes are not "hidden" modes at all. Mode memory always remembers where you are in the sequence, and you never get that reset (even when turning off).

So you have to leave mode memory off (which is the only possibility on the D25A and D25LC2, optional on the others), and always have the light default to the first Lo state.

In practical terms, mode memory is really only useful if you plan to set the head-loosened state to something you don't plan to change often. If you expect to cycle between constant outputs, you are best leaving it off (so that it always comes on in the first Lo). This is how I leave mine set, as I prefer to know it will always come on low with the head loosened - I can always increase the output from there if I need it.

Good to discuss explicitly, as the options here do get a bit dizzying sometimes.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Well I've discovered that if I'm in head loosened mode and I'm in low-med-high-low-med- and want to get back to -low- again, I just do a full click, wait about 1 second, then turn it back on. Then I've started the sequence over and I'm in low. I was waiting longer so it was a bigger PITA, but one second isn't too awful bad.

It's still more of a hassle than it should be, it should be like a 4sevens. Oh well, I'm still going to EDC it, other than that problem it's an amazing little light.


----------



## jhc37013

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> Well I've discovered that if I'm in head loosened mode and I'm in low-med-high-low-med- and want to get back to -low- again, I just do a full click, wait about 1 second, then turn it back on. Then I've started the sequence over and I'm in low. I was waiting longer so it was a bigger PITA, but one second isn't too awful bad.
> 
> It's still more of a hassle than it should be, it should be like a 4sevens. Oh well, I'm still going to EDC it, other than that problem it's an amazing little light.



I agree it should be hidden better maybe three or four full cycles instead of two but like you have discovered thankfully when you switch it off it starts back in low in like a second and a half so it really isn't to bad.

I like a good discussion on these things and hope when other members read it they realize it really is constructive criticism of a really good light in hopes that Eagletac will pick up on these things and tweak them in future releases, judging from selfbuilt they are open to ideas and opinions.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I learned another trick! 

low-med-high-low-med-high- -->one second SOFT click- -> low! Even better- no clicky noise. 

Yeah it's definitely constructive criticism.. Too late for me but they could change their light for the better for future customers.


----------



## jhc37013

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> I learned another trick!
> 
> low-med-high-low-med-high- -->one second SOFT click- -> low! Even better- no clicky noise.
> 
> Yeah it's definitely constructive criticism.. Too late for me but they could change their light for the better for future customers.



Good call on the soft click or rather soft press and hold for ~1.5sec, it beats switching off to avoid blinkys.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> I learned another trick!
> low-med-high-low-med-high- -->one second SOFT click- -> low! Even better- no clicky noise.


Good catch. It works for me too. :thumbsup:

To explain further for those who don't have the light - you can revert to the first Lo mode no matter where you are (i.e., at any level in the head-loosened state) by soft-pressing and holding the switch for more than one second. This is a "shortcut" that jumps you back to the first output state (i.e., the first Lo mode).

This is very useful, so I will add to to my UI section.

_EDIT: sorry, the shortcut reset only works if the memory mode is off. So there there is no way to avoid the blinking modes with the memory mode on._


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> Good catch. It works for me too. :thumbsup:
> 
> To explain further for those who don't have the light - you can revert to the first Lo mode no matter where you are (i.e., at any level in the head-loosened state) by soft-pressing and holding the switch for more than one second. This is a "shortcut" that jumps you back to the first output state (i.e., the first Lo mode).
> 
> This is very useful, so I will add to to my UI section.



Cool! It might be a little longer than one second.. If I say "one, one thousand" in my head it's long enough, LOL... Maybe 1.1 or 1.2 sec? maybe 0.9 sec? Not sure.


----------



## candle lamp

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks a lot for your excellent review as always. Selfbuilt! :thumbsup:

As you explained, I've double-checked mode memory again.

If I have mode memory turned on, my sample always remembers the last mode I used on group I, but it doesn't rember the last mode on group II. :thinking:  

I'll ask it to Eagletac. And thanks for your useful tip for the shortcut. Selfbuilt & BWX!


----------



## jerrysimons

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Could somebody post a picture with the Eagaltac D25C next to a 4Sevens Quark 123 and not just the Quark mini 123?
Thank you.


----------



## tacgearguy

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

GREAT REVIEW as usual!!!! I just got my D25A clicky last week. AWESOME light! Its my new edc.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



tacgearguy said:


> GREAT REVIEW as usual!!!! I just got my D25A clicky last week. AWESOME light! Its my new edc.



please could you video review it? i enjoy your youtube channel a lot!! 
maybe you could let us know how bright it is compared to your other lights (M10A, SC51). you were probably going to review it anyway. You dont have 14500's do you?


----------



## jerrysimons

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

selfbuilt, Thank you btw!
bwx and selfbuilt, could you please specify whether or not the short-cut for mode sequencing with the head loosened is with memory mode turned on or off? 

As I understand it, with memory mode turned on, the sequence will always pick up at the last mode you were on in the loosened mode-set, even when the light is turned off for any period of time and then turned back on. Also, the last-used-mode from the loosened mode-set is remembered when the light is on and the user twists to the tight mode-set and then back to loosened mode-set. Does the 1 second click/soft press short-cut work to restart the memory when memory is tuned on? If not then there truly is no way to avoid the blinking modes when cycling through the loosened mode-set with memory mode turned on.

With memory mode turned off, the light in loosened mode-set will continually cycle through the modes as long as the light remains turned on, unless you do the 1 second off click/soft-press short cut described or simply turn the light of and then on again after a longer period of time, right? This means that, similar to the Regular/Pro Quark UI, the blinking modes are not actually hidden. It is just that there is a second sequence of low-med-high to cycle through before you get to the blinking modes instead of just one like the Regular/Pro Quark UI. Unlike the Regular/Pro Quark UI, however, you can also break the cycling sequence in the loosened mode-set by tightening the bezel and then loosening it again, which I think is less favorable than the Quark type "on"/temporary memory function between mode-sets.
From what I have gathered, In order to truly hide the blinking modes there would have to be some sort of timed window to have to cycle through the constant modes to get to the blinking modes, like the Quark minis have. This would allow the user to break the sequence advance by simply leaving the light turned on in a loosened mode-set constant mode for longer than the timed window before advancing from the "C" in A->B->C back to the "A".

If wish the D25s memory off setting still included the Regular/Pro Quark temporary memory while the light is on between mode-sets and then would reset when turned off; and that the blinking mode access were truly hidden in the loosened mode-set like the Quark minis with some sort of timed window. For that matter, I wish the Regular/Pro Quark UI had blinking modes hidden like the Quark minis also.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



jerrysimons said:


> bwx and selfbuilt, could you please specify whether or not the short-cut for mode sequencing with the head loosened is with memory mode turned on or off? ... If not then there truly is no way to avoid the blinking modes when cycling through the loosened mode-set with memory mode turned on.


_EDIT: sorry, the shortcut reset only works if the memory mode is off. So there there is no way to avoid the blinking modes with the memory mode on._



> From what I have gathered, In order to truly hide the blinking modes there would have to be some sort of timed window to have to cycle through the constant modes to get to the blinking modes, like the Quark minis have.


Yes, that's what you need to truly avoid the blinking modes normally.


----------



## jerrysimons

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks for the reply. _Edit: _If the short cut doesn't work with the memory mode on then it looks like the best way to use the memory mode is as you described; when the user desires to select an output and leave it that way.

Given the extremely high output of the D25LC2 on 2x cell sources along with similar form to the Thrunight TN12 (lighter even), do you suspect problems with tripping the protection circuits is cr123a primaries? That issue is one that steered me away from the TN12.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I have no memory mode on the D25LC2...


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

D25LC2 does not have memory mode. I think it's the only one in the 'Clicky' line that does not have it.
I have the same light


----------



## rufus001

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



sspc said:


> Question: any idea how the d25c would run on a Tenergy 3.0 900mah rcr123? This is the batt with a fully charged voltage of 3.6v so Im curious if you maintain all modes with this batt.



Are you sure? My Tenergys go to 4.0V using the Tenergy battery charger. I've put one in anyway and will report back at what point I get my modes back.


----------



## rufus001

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> It works with either memory turned on/off.



Doesn't work for me. :thinking:


----------



## rufus001

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



rufus001 said:


> Doesn't work for me. :thinking:



And it shouldn't! Otherwise how does it remember your setting if you turn the torch off if this shortcut resets the sequence to the start?


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



rufus001 said:


> Doesn't work for me. :thinking:
> And it shouldn't! Otherwise how does it remember your setting if you turn the torch off if this shortcut resets the sequence to the start?


Aarg, sorry guys. You are right, it doesn't work with memory turned on - my bad. I thought I had memory turned on when I tried it the other day. But I just re-tested on both D25C samples, and the shortcut only works if memory is turned off. In essense, this shortcut works like turning the light off and on, but without the clicking required.

I will edit my posts. :sigh:


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



loquutis79 said:


> D25LC2 does not have memory mode. I think it's the only one in the 'Clicky' line that does not have it. I have the same light


Confirmed that it doesn't work on my D25LC2 either. According to the manual, the D25A is also missing it (but I don't have one to verify).

One oddity - the manual also states that the memory works for group 1. Given the specificity of mentioning that group, you would logically infer that it doesn't work in group 2. I found memory (when turned on) worked in both group 1 and group 2 on all three of my samples (2x D25C and 1x D25A2) that support memory mode. This has been confirmed by at least one other user. But a couple of users have also reported now that they only have memory in group 1. I don't know why the discrepancy. :shrug:



jerrysimons said:


> Given the extremely high output of the D25LC2 on 2x cell sources along with similar form to the Thrunight TN12 (lighter even), do you suspect problems with tripping the protection circuits is cr123a primaries? That issue is one that steered me away from the TN12.


You should be fine. Although the D25LC2 is initially as bright, it steps down to a lower level just after 3 mins have passed. I've never see any sign of PTC engagement on lights with that sort of step down - it is just the continuously maximally-driven you have watch out for.


----------



## JudasD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I would sure like to see some outdoor beamshots of the D25C in XML vs XPG with a 16340. I cant decide which one to get. I have seen the numbers comparing the two with the RCR123. I currently own a V11R so i am also trying to use that as a reference when looking at the numbers. Selfbuilt, could you tell much of a difference in throw with the XPG vs the XML?

Thanks,
JD


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



JudasD said:


> Selfbuilt, could you tell much of a difference in throw with the XPG vs the XML?


Yes, the XP-G is more noticeably throwy than the XM-L (when compared both on primary or both Li-ion).

Of course, part of that may be subjective - the XP-G has a more defined hotstpot, whereas the XM-L has a softer drop-off into corona/spill. But there is no doubt the XP-G throws further. Whether or not it's enough of a difference depends on how far out you want to look - the XM-L puts out so much light, that at close-moderate distances, it doesn't really matter much.


----------



## JudasD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

My primary use is at about 100 yards. A V11R almost gets there adequately, but a little extra "oompf" would be nice . I was thinking that the XPG would have the extra throw that i need. From your statement above i wonder if the extra lumens from the D25C XML could also give me the extra distance that i need? Like you mentioned though, very subjective.

Thanks,
JD


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



JudasD said:


> My primary use is at about 100 yards. A V11R almost gets there adequately, but a little extra "oompf" would be nice . I was thinking that the XPG would have the extra throw that i need. From your statement above i wonder if the extra lumens from the D25C XML could also give me the extra distance that i need? Like you mentioned though, very subjective.


Possible, but the D25C-XML is a little more diffuse looking than the V11R, so subjectively the difference may not be very noticeable. The spot from the D25C-XPG would probably be more noticeable.


----------



## JudasD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> Possible, but the D25C-XML is a little more diffuse looking than the V11R, so subjectively the difference may not be very noticeable. The spot from the D25C-XPG would probably be more noticeable.



This is very good feedback. Thank you selfbuilt. It looks like the XPG will be the one to get.

JD


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



JudasD said:


> This is very good feedback. Thank you selfbuilt. It looks like the XPG will be the one to get.


If throw is really important to you, you might to also consider the upcoming Nitecore EC1. It looks to have a bigger head and larger reflector, and could very well throw further. I will be be reviewing this series when it is ready (last updated I had from the manufacturer was an end-of-June launch, so expect my review sometime early-mid July, if everything stays on track).


----------



## shramj

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I just orderd the D25LC2 with the Neutral White XP-G. I wanted something that had a little more throw than flood so I went with the XP-G. Wish it had a forward clicky but all the other features make up for it.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

It's funny, throw and flood become very subjective when comparing lights where one is brighter. 

Out my front door I have a couple hundred yards to work with, and on high, the D25LC2 ''throws'' better than my xp-g aa lights with smaller hot spots just because it's 5 times brighter (est.), even though the ''hot spot'' is 10 times (est.) the size at 100 yards, it's still lighting things up out there, just more things at a time.. but only because it's so much brighter overall.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Would anyone know where the male threads are on the D25A?
On the D25C the male threads are on head, on the D25LC2 the male threads are on the body.

i would prefer the male threads on the body.


----------



## JudasD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> If throw is really important to you, you might to also consider the upcoming Nitecore EC1. It looks to have a bigger head and larger reflector, and could very well throw further. I will be be reviewing this series when it is ready (last updated I had from the manufacturer was an end-of-June launch, so expect my review sometime early-mid July, if everything stays on track).



This is a very interesting looking light. Thank you for the heads-up selfbuilt.

JD


----------



## yowzer

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shramj said:


> I just orderd the D25LC2 with the Neutral White XP-G. I wanted something that had a little more throw than flood so I went with the XP-G. Wish it had a forward clicky but all the other features make up for it.



I picked up a LC2 with a NW XM-L a few weeks ago, because I like compact, bright, floody lights. Liking it a lot better than the Spark SL6-740NW that's been my go-to light for the role. Smaller, just as bright, better UI (Never thought I'd say that about a reverse clicky!). Just need to find something to act as a diffuser (The Spark is boasting a frosted lens for an awesome smooth wall of light). I'm very happy with it, especially for the price.

The XP-G ones I was playing with when picking it out looked like they had pretty decent throw for the size of the reflector, but indoors with the lights on it was hard to say for sure. I'm debating picking up the AA version as an EDC light...


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I bought a diffuser from Amazon a couple months ago and just tried it on my LC2.. it works perfectly.. like it was made for it.
''Olight T Series Diffuser T Series Flashlight Diffuser, White'' ASIN: B0051F7YAI from Amazon. 
It looks perfect on the flashlight too.

edit..
BTW I also replaced my Spark SL6-800CW with this LC2, and I used the diffuser on my Spark quite a bit. The lens on the Olight diffuser above uses the same type of diffuser glass.. It's bigger w/ the diffuser on though, but it's nice soft rubber.. won't chew up the inside of a pocket.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> on my LC2.. it works perfectly.. like it was made for it.


very good info. according to specs and selfbuilt's measurement the bezel has a 22.50mm diameter. Tank007 has candle-like diffuser cones/tips for such diameters too but a diffuser LENS like the Olight is much more useful i think. I think i am going to buy the Olight lens too. Seems to fit on many bezel diameters.. let's find out!


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> ''Olight T Series Diffuser T Series Flashlight Diffuser, White'' ASIN: B0051F7YAI from Amazon.
> It looks perfect on the flashlight too.





shelm said:


> very good info. according to specs and selfbuilt's measurement the bezel has a 22.50mm diameter. Tank007 has candle-like diffuser cones/tips for such diameters too but a diffuser LENS like the Olight is much more useful i think. I think i am going to buy the Olight lens too. Seems to fit on many bezel diameters.. let's find out!


The M-series and T-series diffusers from Olight are very valuable. They have a good quality glass lens with soft rubber cover. And because of the internal design of the rubber, they can fit on a variety of bezel sizes - there are little rubber "feet" that hold tightly against smaller bezels, but you can also fit it over larger ones by not pressing it up all the way. Highly recommended for a wide variety of lights. As long as you get the model that is most appropriate, you should be able to get it to fit fairly well on most lights.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> but you can also fit it over larger ones by not pressing it up all the way. Highly recommended for a wide variety of lights


some China-based sites like HKequipment . net sell it for 6.49 incl free shipping so i placed my order with them. will report back how well it fits my D25LC2!! Thanks again for the good tip!

Btw, the D25 series (Mini, Mini Ti, Clicky, Clicky Ti) has to be an immense selling success for EagleTac, glad to see:
On 2012-06-24, amazing, after *2 weeks* already, this review thread ranks on *#29* of the most popular *268 *CPF review threads (rated by *number of Replies*).


----------



## phips

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I received my D25LC2-CW today!

The good:
- Great form factor, with the reflector being flush with the battery compartment; makes for a very comfortable length too
- Good beam quality
- Pretty much perfect interface for me (I locked out the turbo/strobe): super simple, no memory, goes from low to high, the blinking modes are sufficiently hidden (could be even more hidden though)
- High output, even without the turbo-mode

The bad:
- LED tint seems a bit purple, nothing big though
- Anodizing has some small blemishes
- The locking ring for the clip is larger than the body and I do not like the feeling of it on the otherwise flush body (I do not use the clip), if you remove the locking ring you are left with a sharp edge 
- The locking ring seems to damage the o-ring when removing/installing it
- Moonlight-mode low could be lower
- The holster exposes the light to the metal snap fastener
- Tailstanding is wobbly

Current measurements


Code:


~3,8V				
				
1	LO	61		
	MED	246		
	HI	1220		
				
2	LO	33	~93,4h	~3,9d
	MED	145	~21,4h	
	HI	1190	~2,6h


----------



## zenbeam

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



phips said:


> - The holster exposes the light to the metal snap fastener



This is my biggest pet peeve with the D25 series.

I love the holsters - they are so solid and seemingly very well built (aside from the issue that the button snaps come undone fairly easily if bumped slightly at an angle). But even $2 "xxxfire" holsters with a similar build manage to cover the metal back of the button snap inside the holster with pad or cloth material - or just by sheer design. 

My D25C began life as a twisty - and because I love the size and general unobtrusiveness of the holster when worn, I use it a lot. And in a very short order, I began to see the blemish where the knurling was starting to rub the back of the button snap and ever so slightly flatten at that spot - along with some loss of anodizing. But much like "accepting" that first minor blemish on a new car finish, I accepted this as the price to pay to use such a great little holster. Not a huge blemish mind you, but an obvious enough one none the less.

Then I bought and switched to a clicky-verter tube (gotta love going clicky and keeping that SS bezel!). I thought about putting something in the holster to pad the back of that buttons snap, but just didn't devote enough energy to the idea. So now even my clicky-verter tube has the telltale marking of the dreaded back-o-button rub. :shakehead

I really don't understand why EagleTac hasn't remedied that one just yet. :thinking:


EDIT:

Suggestion to EagleTac -

Email holster maker as follows:

"Please alter design of D25 series holsters to pad, cover or otherwise prevent direct contact between contents of holster (our awesome flashlights) and the metal backside of the snap button - now. Sincerely, the people that write your paychecks. Thank you."


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



zenbeam said:


> And in a very short order, I began to see the blemish where the knurling was starting to rub the back of the button snap and ever so slightly flatten at that spot - along with some loss of anodizing.


This was a known fact from the beginning and also video documented on youtube. Well, have you tried to cover it with a piece of Scotch adhesive film? Cant be that hard.


----------



## zenbeam

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> This was a known fact from the beginning and also video documented on youtube. Well, have you tried to cover it with a piece of Scotch adhesive film? Cant be that hard.



Being a know fact from the beginning _is_ my issue. EagleTac could easily have fixed this by now. 

For the kind of money asked and for the kind of overall excellent quality of build that actually does goes into these lights and for the most part, the holster as well.... me having to "patch" it up completely pops the "bubble of excellence illusion". As a consumer, I should not have to "patch up" a product touted among other high-end competitor products. 

I don't mind the minor blemish. I use the pocket clip to always orient the light in the same position each time I put in the holster - so the blemish will remain in one place only. And while the blemish has been accepted and is tolerable - I feel that the higher end (and I mean $50 versus $10 grocery store lights) flashlight consumer base should not accept the continuance of such a design flaw. 

I don't propose to be the first to identify this known flaw. And while I may have already "rolled over" and accepted the damage it does to my $60 EagleTac D25C (that price includes the clicky-verter tube) - I still do not accept that the condition continues to exist. Having seen someone else touch on it, I thought I'd expound a little myself. For whatever it's worth. 


And sometimes manufacturers are influenced by consumer feedback - including posts in popular forums. I would be pleased as punch if EagleTac actually made the slight change to the design of this holster in question as a result of (even if infinitesimally small) my own feedback here today. When of course combined with existing youtube coverage and much other commentary on the problem in public forums. And not to mention, I had a few minutes to spare today.


----------



## Humminbird

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



phips said:


> The good:
> - Pretty much perfect interface for me (I locked out the turbo/strobe):
> - High output, even without the turbo-mode



How did you lock out the turbo mode? I would like to do the same thing.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

''- The locking ring seems to damage the o-ring when removing/installing it''
Remove o-ring beforehand.

''- The holster exposes the light to the metal snap fastener''
Extremely easy to fix with a small piece of cloth that has adhesive on the back.. Get it at sporting good store - they make it for archery, you put it on your bow so the arrow doesn't make noise and scare deer when it falls of the rest.. Or make it yourself with felt and glue.

''As a consumer, I should not have to "patch up" a product touted among other high-end competitor products.'' 
I think that's perfectly acceptable given it's such a nit-picky problem that's so easily fixed. My first light didn't work, they sent out replacement. It's still a high quality light, I just got unlucky. It's still a good holster, just has a tiny but easily fixed flaw. No biggie.



Humminbird said:


> How did you lock out the turbo mode? I would like to do the same thing.



I think he just means that he uses it with head loosened.


----------



## phips

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Actually I put a piece of paper between the body and the head, since I do not like the feeling of the loosend head.


----------



## zenbeam

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> It's still a good holster, just has a tiny but easily fixed flaw. No biggie.



Exactly. And it should be easily fixed.... by EagleTac not each and every customer.
I think that's what I've been trying to say, but I did :fail: Concision 101. 


Nit picky? Maybe. I prefer to think of it as being detail oriented. Who wouldn't want me on their quality control team?


----------



## cbr400rr

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

They should just make holsters with Velcro instead of a snap button.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



zenbeam said:


> Exactly. And it should be easily fixed.... by EagleTac not each and every customer.
> I think that's what I've been trying to say, but I did :fail: Concision 101.
> 
> 
> Nit picky? Maybe. I prefer to think of it as being detail oriented. Who wouldn't want me on their quality control team?



Well maybe they will fix it. But until then? I say no biggie. The main reason, $60 for the LC2 is pretty cheap- I think, for an XM-L 18650 that's so compact and driven hard enough to be very bright for it's size. If it was $100+ like my Spark SL6 800 or $95 like the Zebra Light SC600 I think it might be easier to ''nit pick'', but for $60? It's such a good deal, I can live with some small almost non-issues.


----------



## Douglejuggle

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Does anyone know how to remove the ring on the D25LC2 that you attach the lanyard to. I can't figure it out. 
Thanks


----------



## zenbeam

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Douglejuggle said:


> Does anyone know how to remove the ring on the D25LC2 that you attach the lanyard to. I can't figure it out.
> Thanks



In EagleTac's own words from an info page on the P20A2 MKII using the same lanyard ring: "use any sharp tool to _remove_ the _lanyard ring_ from the tail-cap"

I removed mine from my P20A2 MKII doing just that. I used a screw driver and pried it off.

It is actually 2 pieces that interlock. I think if I had known that from the start, it would have helped me understand my approach to removing it better. But ultimately, a quick pry with the screwdriver and off she came. Not saying that I recommend this wholeheartedly because you can scratch your anodizing or nick the lanyard ring in the process. I just got lucky and it popped off. 

I tried a brief look at Google for a better instruction for this but no immediate luck.

Maybe someone else here has done this and can put it into better words that EagleTac's instructions.


----------



## melty

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Douglejuggle said:


> Does anyone know how to remove the ring on the D25LC2 that you attach the lanyard to. I can't figure it out.
> Thanks



I just stick a fingernail into the crack opposite the lanyard hole. A little pry and the ring pops apart into its two separate pieces.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



melty said:


> I just stick a fingernail into the crack opposite the lanyard hole. I little pry and the ring pops apart into its two separate pieces.


I did the same, and it worked. It's explained in the manuals for some of their other models, but not in the D25C manual, unfortunately.


----------



## jhc37013

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> I did the same, and it worked. It's explained in the manuals for some of their other models, but not in the D25C manual, unfortunately.



Ha I pried at the lanyard hole for like 30mins becoming very frustrated before figuring out I just pull it apart from the crack opposite the hole.


----------



## Douglejuggle

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



melty said:


> I just stick a fingernail into the crack opposite the lanyard hole. I little pry and the ring pops apart into its two separate pieces.




Thanks , didn't want to scratch the metal or break the ring. Tried it like you said and it just fell apart in my hands. Maybe I can fit a rubber cigar ring in there.....


----------



## JML

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I have two of these (warm tint XM-L D25C and D25LC2). Excellent lights, and another excellent review.

The only thing that bothers or disappoints me is that EagleTac doesn't include the 1.5mm "custom" hex key for the D25C clip screws. It has to be ordered directly from EagleTac, for $3.00. The key must cost them only a few cents (far less than the shipping costs) and I don't understand why they just didn't include it in the light. I've written to EagleTac about this.

And I wonder why a regular 1.5mm key isn't recommended.


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

ya, I was stumped for a while with the lanyard ring as well. Those are the times you feel stupid about the times you think "Me smart male. Me figure everything out". Should of asked the wife.


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



JML said:


> I have two of these (warm tint XM-L D25C and D25LC2). Excellent lights, and another excellent review.
> 
> The only thing that bothers or disappoints me is that EagleTac doesn't include the 1.5mm "custom" hex key for the D25C clip screws. It has to be ordered directly from EagleTac, for $3.00. The key must cost them only a few cents (far less than the shipping costs) and I don't understand why they just didn't include it in the light. I've written to EagleTac about this.
> 
> And I wonder why a regular 1.5mm key isn't recommended.



I wondered the same thing and so went to Tod @ IG (always a deep well of info, and extremely helpful) and his reply...

_"... when ET sourced screws from several screw manufacturers, __and then allen/hex wrenches from several tool makers - ET could find none that matched perfectly. _
_The screw manufacturers said they oversized the tolerances so wider range of tools would fit, and the tool manufacturers said they undersized tolerances so they would fit more screws! _
_LOL, _
_it drove ET owner bonkers - this is why he went the custom size route."
_


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Yeah, I have seen cases before where the supplied allen key was just a little too small, making it easy to strip the screws accidentally. The original Eagletac M2C4 comes to mind ...


----------



## eNonsense

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I took the clip off of my twisty D25A with a regular 1/16" hex and it seemed like it fit perfectly. Did they not use the same screws in the clicky model?


----------



## kaichu dento

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Well this is quite the little light here! Mine just showed up today and I've got to say I like the tint, beam pattern, size,
weight, feel and balance of outputs over many lights in far higher price ranges.
Very much a fan of UI's that allow you to optimize them through very simple commands, and right at the tip of your fingers
here you have a light that can play as a normal flashlight with the head loosened, low light selection range or tactical
switching between turbo and strobe.
Probably one of the few lights that every one here should have at least one of, if not be buying them for gifting lights too.


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



kaichu dento said:


> Well this is quite the little light here! Mine just showed up today and I've got to say I like the tint, beam pattern, size,
> weight, feel and balance of outputs over many lights in far higher price ranges.
> Very much a fan of UI's that allow you to optimize them through very simple commands, and right at the tip of your fingers
> here you have a light that can play as a normal flashlight with the head loosened, low light selection range or tactical
> switching between turbo and strobe.
> Probably one of the few lights that every one here should have at least one of, if not be buying them for gifting lights too.



+1. I have the D25c, D25LC2, and a D25C TI, all with the XM-L U2 and am really impressed by the clean beam pattern, tint (the warmest U2 I have yet seen), and UI. I completely agree with your assesment. I have seen others complain recently about the thin walls and threads, reverse clicky, and different UI for many of these new ET clicky's, but the small form factor with such an excellent beam and class leading output with Li-ions (for now), far outweighs the few minor shortcomings these lights have.


----------



## kaichu dento

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



cyclesport said:


> +1. I have the D25c, D25LC2, and a D25C TI, all with the XM-L U2 and am really impressed by the clean beam pattern, tint (the warmest U2 I have yet seen), and UI. I completely agree with your assesment. I have seen others complain recently about the thin walls and threads, reverse clicky, and different UI for many of these new ET clicky's, but the small form factor with such an excellent beam and class leading output with Li-ions (for now), far outweighs the few minor shortcomings these lights have.


I could complain too, but particularly at this price point I'm more than just a little hesitant to do so. It says moon mode, but is far brighter than moonlight, but however, if I were to list my dissatisfactions with this light, I'd likely have to find shortcomings in every other light I own as well. 

To anyone complaining about the threads and tube thickness, I'd say it's a matter of them needing a different form factor rather than a case of malnutrition in this lights case. Tough enough is my assessment, for a slim, light, powerful, versatile and elegant light that will be leaving my pocket primarily only to be in my hand.


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



kaichu dento said:


> I like the tint, beam pattern, size, weight, feel over many lights in higher price ranges.



Yes, it is really small and bright, and has a very nice tint and beam pattern.




kaichu dento said:


> I could complain too . . .


 
Ima go ahead and list a big complaint with my D25C XMLU2.
On AW IMR 16340 which I have a bunch of,
I get either 10 lumens or 750 lumens and nothing in between.
It makes a less useful EDC as other lights I already have.

It would be great if they ever update the driver to fully work with Li-Ions.


----------



## kaichu dento

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



GordoJones88 said:


> On AW IMR 16340 which I have a bunch of,
> I get either 10 lumens or 750 lumens and nothing in between.
> It makes a less useful EDC as other lights I already have.
> 
> It would be great if they ever update the driver to fully work with Li-Ions.


I guess I won't be using 14500's in mine then. What an oversight that was. :shakehead


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



GordoJones88 said:


> Yes, it is really small and bright, and has a very nice tint and beam pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ima go ahead and list a big complaint with my D25C XMLU2.
> On AW IMR 16340 which I have a bunch of,
> I get either 10 lumens or 750 lumens and nothing in between.
> It makes a less useful EDC as other lights I already have.
> 
> It would be great if they ever update the driver to fully work with Li-Ions.



I too use 16340's as much as possible and going from low to 750+ in direct drive is the biggest shortcoming of the D25C, (although you still can switch between moonlight and low with Li-ion's). I emailed EagleTac about this when I first received the D25C clicky and was told there simply wasn't room for a more sophisticated driver in this small package to maintain regulation. In reality though, I seem to use either low or high/turbo in other lights as well.

Still...for a clicky this small and all it's previously mentioned attributes, I can overlook it till something better comes along. I like giving away outdated and less used lights to non-light friends and family anyway, since most are unaware how flashlight technology has advanced in the last few years.


----------



## JudasD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Hopefully the XT-E version will be out soon and we will have some beamshots. Then i can finally decide 

JD


----------



## JML

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Given that tiny hex keys cam out and recesses strip out so easily, they should have just gone the Torx route. Better QC and able to deal with far more torque.


----------



## phips

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

The whole clip/locking-ring construction might be my biggest gripe with the LC2.
I don't want a clip at all and the locking ring sticks out from the otherwise flush body.
Without the locking ring a sharp (but flush) edge is left on the body.
I guess I will try to find a lathe and just machine the sharp edge off.
Why the did not just go with the simple D25A / D25C solution (with Torx screws and including the tool) is beyond me.

Otherwise I am really happy with my purchase... a great light for daily use and biking too.


----------



## SCEMan

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



kaichu dento said:


> I guess I won't be using 14500's in mine then. What an oversight that was. :shakehead



Yeah, I was ready to push the D25A ti buy button until I found this out. For me, moonlight or direct drive couldn't be less useful. I seem to use the medium setting most often with my Quarks with occasional "turbo". And NiMHs aren't bright enough to justify the buy IMHO.


----------



## kaabob

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



SCEMan said:


> Yeah, I was ready to push the D25A ti buy button until I found this out. For me, moonlight or direct drive couldn't be less useful. I seem to use the medium setting most often with my Quarks with occasional "turbo". And NiMHs aren't bright enough to justify the buy IMHO.



Tis why I went with the D25C Ti. Brighter on Primaries and currently using LiFePO4 vs D25A. I just wish it didn't look so "chubby" -- the D25A Mini seems like the prefect proportion concerning aesthetics . So sexy .


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Getting a little sick of ''head loosened'' mode flickering. Yes it happens when threads are perfectly clean and lubed. Reminds me of 4-sevens quark loos head syndrome.

Why don't they put low-med-high-turbo on head TIGHT mode and useless flashing modes on head LOOSE mode? 

Head loose mode sucks on every light I've ever owned, and on every light with head loose mode, all the modes I use most are in the most unreliable head loose mode. 

Ridiculous. I'm about to send it back and try again, for a third light (first was defective).


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> Getting a little sick of ''head loosened'' mode flickering. Yes it happens when threads are perfectly clean and lubed.


Which lube do you use? Some lubes are not recommended in this case because they reduce the friction between the male&female threads too much.


----------



## phips

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> Why don't they put low-med-high-turbo on head TIGHT mode and useless flashing modes on head LOOSE mode?


That would be a great idea, 4 modes on a tight head with moonlight to turbo would make for a perfect interface.
People with use for a tactical strobe could still have instant access to it with a loosened head.

My solution is to put a circular piece of paper between body and head, which completely locks out turbo/strobe.
Not perfect since you loose max output but it is not that bad since High and Turbo are pretty close in terms of output (Especially after the step-down).


----------



## Humminbird

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



phips said:


> That would be a great idea, 4 modes on a tight head with moonlight to turbo would make for a perfect interface.
> People with use for a tactical strobe could still have instant access to it with a loosened head.
> 
> My solution is to put a circular piece of paper between body and head, which completely locks out turbo/strobe.
> Not perfect since you loose max output but it is not that bad since High and Turbo are pretty close in terms of output (Especially after the step-down).



My thoughts exactly. If I could have my way, I would leave out the strobe modes entirely. I should be getting my D25A Ti Clicky tomorrow, and I will most likely do what you did and lock out turbo/strobe.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> Which lube do you use? Some lubes are not recommended in this case because they reduce the friction between the male&female threads too much.



Not sure what friction has to do with it- but I use Super Lube synthetic grease right now. I've experimented with a lot from white lithium grease to pure silicone. Anything that will not damage rubber o-rings. Super Lube seems to work better than anything I've tried so far. 

The problem seems to be because the head and body threads are too far apart ans cause wobble, so if you happen to be touching the head when using light, it might shift and wobble, breaking contact. 

I know if I took a screwdriver to the threads and gouge them a little, that would actually help, because where those imperfections are, the threads will at least be touching. I don't really want to do that though.

I could also make the body slightly more oval. Yeah, seems a little overkill.. squashing the body slightly to make sure the threads are touching.. I know that would work if I didn't break the thing in the process. 

Too bad they can't just use tight enough tolerances in the first place and make the threads tight enough for ''head loose'' mode to work properly in the first place.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> Too bad they can't just use tight enough tolerances in the first place and make the threads tight enough for ''head loose'' mode to work properly in the first place.


Is your D-Clicky the Titanium or the aluminum? If you think that threads are too playful in the loosened mode, i would have checked with other shipped samples of the same model. Maybe your specimen went a little off from the CNC machines. Typically o-rings are thick enough to solve such problems.
I would definitely try sticky lube such as Nextorch Silicone Grease (~2$). With this stuff the threads will keep their position and not loosen further.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> Is your D-Clicky the Titanium or the aluminum? If you think that threads are too playful in the loosened mode, i would have checked with other shipped samples of the same model. Maybe your specimen went a little off from the CNC machines. Typically o-rings are thick enough to solve such problems.
> I would definitely try sticky lube such as Nextorch Silicone Grease (~2$). With this stuff the threads will keep their position and not loosen further.



Yeah the O-ring keeps it pretty tight, but if you touch it while it's on, it moves enough to sometimes cause flickering. Then it'll flicker until I move it again. I've experimented with 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn 1 turn out when operating it in that loose mode. Doesn't seem to make a difference. 

I use it every day, and yesterday it didn't flicker once. I don't know. The Suber Lube is pretty thick, I have to sqeeze it out of a tube with some force. I could try that other stuff. I think the threads just lose good contact in certain circumstances no matter what.

EDIT- It's aluminum.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> I think the threads just lose good contact in certain circumstances *no matter what*.


BWX, you might well be right that with your sample, no matter what, you continue to experience issues. It would be too bad if you could not exchange it for a better machined copy ( i would check with your dealer or with the manufacturer ).
I never tried Super Lube grease .. i only know that it is supposed to reduce friction between 2 metal surfaces (teflon-based lube!) and twisting action will be *smoother *if you apply Superlube (grease or oil).

As repeatedly stated in other cpf threads, sticky stuff like the mentioned silicone grease (watch the part with the toothpick!, i own this stuff) will fill in space between the loose threads, practically kill play, and make twisting threads harder. For example, a head in the loosened position wont get lost anymore!



To overcome your issues, i would ask the dealer for a replacement copy, and also order the 2$ silicone grease (e.g. from CPFMP supporting dealer DX.com).


----------



## Humminbird

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Ok, got my D25A Titanium clicky today. It has a fluorescent rubber boot that is apparently larger in diameter than the black one seen on non-titanium clickies. The larger diameter prevents using the supplied lanyard, since the hook is too big to fit between the rubber boot and body tube. Has anyone else noticed the same? No biggie, since I don't intend to use the lanyard anyway.


----------



## Romanko

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Can I use unprotected 18650 in D25LC2?


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Romanko said:


> Can I use unprotected 18650 in D25LC2?


Well, judging from the runtimes, even my protected cells don't get tripped in regular usage (i.e., drop-off to a low level occurs). So you could use unprotected cells and expect much the same pattern.


----------



## not a fighter

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Fantastic review as always, great lamp, seemingly, with a too complex UI scheme for my tastes.


----------



## kreisl

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks for the extensive tests and measurements! I am too in the market for the D-series. Now i need to find dealers with low international shipping costs


----------



## biglights

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



not a fighter said:


> Fantastic review as always, great lamp, seemingly, with a too complex UI scheme for my tastes.



How is one click to low, then soft click to medium then again to high complex? This is a very simple light to use. Give it a try and I am sure that you will find it very enjoyable!!


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I have the D25LC2 and really love it. My favorite EDC due to lumens and size.
But what is with all those strobes and others after the last soft click to high. This is where the U.I is over the top. All lights should have a way to program all strobes out if wanted. Those who need them and those who don't can set up their lights as they see fit.
The perfect world.


----------



## Humminbird

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



loquutis79 said:


> But what is with all those strobes and others after the last soft click to high. This is where the U.I is over the top. All lights should have a way to program all strobes out if wanted.



Exactly. If I could have my way, the D25 would have the following UI.
- Soft click to change mode. Standard sequence Moonlight-LO-MED-HI-Turbo. 
- Long soft click shortcut to turbo. 
- Loosen and tighten head to change mode sequence. Other mode sequences could have strobes and stuff.


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I'm not sure everyone gets how to 'program' the D25.

With mode memory off, the sequence is : Low > Med > Hi > Low > Med > Hi.
If you don't wanna see blinkies, soft press for 1 second or full press off/on, 
and it reverts back to the beginning of the sequence.


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Yes well, that's not programming. That's just putting up with what the light gives you. Programming is being able to go low-med-high, low-med-high as many times as you want with no strobe. And if you want strobe you do something else. Something more deliberate. Turning off the light to restart a cycle is not programming, it's having to put up with a lack of programming.


----------



## phips

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I also think blinking modes should never be on the "main line" of the interface.
In fact it is a reason for me to not even consider buying several lights.
On the D25 series I can put up with it somewhat because the strobe is tucked away and easy to get out of.
Plus the rest of the light is pretty awesome


----------



## SCEMan

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



phips said:


> I also think blinking modes should never be on the "main line" of the interface.
> In fact it is a reason for me to not even consider buying several lights.
> On the D25 series I can put up with it somewhat because the strobe is tucked away and easy to get out of.
> Plus the rest of the light is pretty awesome



I agree. Ideally I'd also like the blinking modes "lockable", but the for me, the D25LC2 is the Quark 18650 I've always wanted with added power. And if I need to cycle thru the levels more than 2x, a quick twist to turbo and back is a small price to pay...


----------



## biglights

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



SCEMan said:


> I agree. Ideally I'd also like the blinking modes "lockable", but the for me, the D25LC2 is the Quark 18650 I've always wanted with added power. And if I need to cycle thru the levels more than 2x, a quick twist to turbo and back is a small price to pay...



Agreed, this is a pretty awesome light. It is after the second cycle, if it was the first then I could see where it would be a problem. Lockout would be nice, bit it is hardly ever an issue for me.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

D25LC2 owners!!, anyone able to measure the current draw (tail cap reading as always)?
On a *fresh *XTAR 2600 18700 based on Sanyo cell, i get
~584mA on Hi2 (loosened head, with moonlight mode)
~611mA on Turbo (tightened head)

I dont know about actual lux or lumen readings but it appears that the current decreases with time, steadily. Like a monotonic decreasing curve (amperage vs. time). And since cell voltage must decrease with time too, i would draw the conclusion that brightness has to decrease too. However, selfbuilt's graph show a Turbo step-down and then a very flat line for the brightness curve.

Maybe my XTAR 18700 is the cause for the declining amperage?

In typical well-regulated lights with stabilized brightness the amperage should increase monotonically, as can be seen from the many (amperage vs. voltage) graphs by flashlight & electronics specialist HKJ.

Maybe my sample is faulty (i dont have any luxmeter to measure the output stepdown on Turbo-mode). Please share your amperage readings, thanks!!


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> In typical well-regulated lights with stabilized brightness the amperage should increase monotonically, as can be seen from the many (amperage vs. voltage) graphs by flashlight & electronics specialist HKJ.


I have seen this issue many times with tailcap current draws on my lights. It is more likely your DMM is introducing resistance into the setup, causing the circuit to drop out of regulation. In consulting with HKJ, that has been the general conclusion reached. 

Although it seems like the extra resistance of the DMM and leads would be neglible, in many cases it is sufficient to cause the circuit to drop out of regulation (i.e., it interprets the situation as equivalent to partially depleted batteries). Proof of this comes from doing concurrent light measures - whenever I see unusual tailcap current draws, I have always found a significant drop in output to coincide with inclusion of the DMM.

The only way to accurately interogate the performance of a circuit is through a bench-top power supply (and familiarity with doing voltage-current sweeps). This is why I don't report tailcap current draws in my reviews - in many cases, they can be inaccurate due to resistance altering circuit functioning. I am sure your lights are fine.


----------



## phips

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

You can find some current measurements done with a multimeter by me on page 4.
They are quite different from yours, though selfbuilt already offered a possible explanation.


----------



## JudasD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> I have seen this issue many times with tailcap current draws on my lights. It is more likely your DMM is introducing resistance into the setup, causing the circuit to drop out of regulation. In consulting with HKJ, that has been the general conclusion reached.
> 
> Although it seems like the extra resistance of the DMM and leads would be neglible, in many cases it is sufficient to cause the circuit to drop out of regulation (i.e., it interprets the situation as equivalent to partially depleted batteries). Proof of this comes from doing concurrent light measures - whenever I see unusual tailcap current draws, I have always found a significant drop in output to coincide with inclusion of the DMM.
> 
> The only way to accurately interogate the performance of a circuit is through a bench-top power supply (and familiarity with doing voltage-current sweeps). This is why I don't report tailcap current draws in my reviews - in many cases, they can be inaccurate due to resistance altering circuit functioning. I am sure your lights are fine.



I thought the misreading of current with a DMM were only under heavy loads?

JD


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> D25LC2 owners!!, anyone able to measure the current draw (tail cap reading as always)?


Thanks guys!!
Thanks to your tips i reassessed my current setup (DMM, +DMM's probes, +attached crocodile clips w/ their own cables, +1 holding magnet on top of the crocodile clip for the 18700 cell; no current flows thru the neodymium magnet because it is not in contact with the cell!) and deleted the cables of the crocodile clips and the crocodile clips themselves. Now measuring the tail cap current with my DMM (and its original probes) i get totally different numbers!! Easily 1.7A on Turbo-mode, eek!

Now i am baffled. If i want to continuously measure the current (to get HKJ's graphs-like, amperage vs. time), how can i fix the DMM's leads to the threads and 18700 cell *without* using crocodile cables? And why on earth do manufacturers produce crocodile cables if their use influences the circuit that much? The voltage drop along these 2 cables must be substantial!

The DMM's leads arent magnetic. That's why i chose to use crocodile cables (=cables with crocodile clips on both ends) in the first place. And aluminum (=the threads of the flashlight) isnt magnetic either. So the easiest way to get a closed circuit is by using crocodile cables and 1 magnet. But once one does so, the circuit is influenced and current draw results considerably lower!!

Wow, what a mess.

I realize that the art of _measurement technique_ is quite challenging!!


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



JudasD said:


> I thought the misreading of current with a DMM were only under heavy loads?


Not necessarily. It is really more a question of how much resistance is enough to send the circuit out of its stabilized response range. And depending how the circuit functions, you may see it all loads in a given light (e.g. like in my Xtar S1 pre-production sample). I'm sure HKJ could explain it all better. 



shelm said:


> Now i am baffled. If i want to continuously measure the current (to get HKJ's graphs-like, amperage vs. time), how can i fix the DMM's leads to the threads and 18700 cell *without* using crocodile cables? ...
> Wow, what a mess.
> I realize that the art of _measurement technique_ is quite challenging!!


Indeed. Personally, I try to use as little intervening cabling as possible for current draws (e.g. good leads, or short copper cabling and eletrical tape to hold things together). I rarely use aligator clips, and never use magnets.

But the only way to do HKJ-like graphs (of current/output/power over voltage) is with a power supply directly connected to the head. If you want to do output over time when run on batteries (like I do), then any data-logging lightmeter would do. But there is no simple way to do current draw over time, unless you verify concurrently with a lightmeter that your current measuring setup is not altering the output and/or runtime.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> current measuring setup is not altering the output and/or runtime.


Thanks selfbuilt!
I need to admit that _cell-powered current_(A)_ vs. runtime_(t) is a rather questionable manner to visualize the performance of a flashlight because it gives only an indirect indication of the brightness stabilization. A lightmeter is something which i dont have, and such great constant power supply machines like HKJ's are definitely beyond my budget and ambitions. My measured runtimes will certainly differ from your results simply because my cell is a *2600*mAh Sanyo-based cell.

If one possesses only 1x DMM (or even 2x DMM with data logging functionality) and no other instruments or machines, then the only thing one could continuously graph over time is the tail cap current. *sigh*
Oh, i do have electrician's adhesive tape.. 

Now, on a freshly charged cell 4.235V i get like 1900mA+ on Turbo-mode (wooopieee!), or ~1.8A during the first 30secs. The light gets hot and i needs proper cooling after that time!


----------



## hatman

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



SCEMan said:


> I agree. Ideally I'd also like the blinking modes "lockable", but the for me, the D25LC2 is the Quark 18650 I've always wanted with added power.


 Agreed!


----------



## drupal

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Hello, I have an Eagletac D25LC2 running with Trufire 18650 3100 batterys. I'm not able to get into moon mode by tightening/loosening 3x, what's the trick?


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



drupal said:


> Hello, I have an Eagletac D25LC2 running with Trufire 18650 3100 batterys. I'm not able to get into moon mode by tightening/loosening 3x, what's the trick?


It is because there is no moon mode on the D25LC2. If you look at the output tables in the review, you will see the moon level is actually brighter than the regular low of the other models.

It is unfortunate, but that is how it is for that model.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> It is because there is no moon mode on the D25LC2.


I've measured tail cap current for both cycles (lower & higher), and on a fresh [email protected] i get:
Low: *48mA+* (higher cycle)
Low: *25mA+* (lower cycle)

These values are a little higher when the cell voltage is less than 4.2V because of the brightness stabilization. Easy to see, neither of the currents would theoretically correspond to a "moonlight" mode. For a real moonlight mode (sub-1lm output OTF) the current would have to be *5..10mA* or even less on a fresh Li-ion cell. It is actually difficult enough to _discern by heart_ the Low's between the higher and lower cycle. One cant be 100% sure which cycle is active (the lower? the higher?) unless one actively compares the Low's _repeated _times by twisting the head 3x to switch between.

Yep, on this model that's the way it is


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> I've measured tail cap current for both cycles (lower & higher), and on a fresh cell (4.200..4.235V) i get:


Yes, there is a lower low mode in the second cycle of modes - it just isn't a "moonlight" mode, as you can tell from your current readings. 

I give actual estimate lumen measures for all these modes, for all models, on all batteries, in the detailed tables at the end of the review post.


----------



## MichaelW

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Maybe Eagletac will get on the ball, and get a markII version of the D25 clicky series out ASAP.
No xt-e, no xm-l, no special xm-l circuit, just the xp-g2 (R5-cool, R4-neutral) with desired improvements.


----------



## BLUE LED

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

To ascertain which low mode I am in, I compared it to my S-mini R5. To varify it, I measured the lux. I am in the lower mode, but it is still too high  D25CL2 XP-G S2


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

D25LC2. I noticed that it is possible to produce a state of "constant TURBO-mode on", meaning that the switch loses its functionality and no change happens if you press it. On my sample, when i tighten the head, i get TURBO - STROBE, and these 2 modes are controlled by the switch. And you can switch the light off, of course.

Now, i noticed that i could tighten the head even more, with little additional force -- and the light would turn on, TURBO-mode, and stay on. Clicking the switch would no effect anything.

This effect seems to occur more easily when the threads and contact points are slightly dirty.. i guess by the aluminium powder (abrasion in threads). But even after cleaning the threads and contact points thoroughly with a Q-tip i would sometimes(!) observe this effect: 
overtightening the heads provokes a_ constant-on _state in TURBO-mode.

Anyones else observed this phenomenon?


----------



## phips

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Has anyone yet tried to swap the LED of a D25?
I was thinking about putting a Nichia 219 LED ( http://illuminationsupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=158 ) into my D25LC2.
Seems like a great LED and without the turbo mode it should not be overdriven I guess.
However I don't know how to disassemble the head, the lens and reflector come of easy enough but after that I am at a loss.
Any tips?


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> D25LC2. I noticed that it is possible to produce a state of "constant TURBO-mode on", meaning that the switch loses its functionality and no change happens if you press it. On my sample, when i tighten the head, i get TURBO - STROBE, and these 2 modes are controlled by the switch. And you can switch the light off, of course.
> 
> Now, i noticed that i could tighten the head even more, with little additional force -- and the light would turn on, TURBO-mode, and stay on. Clicking the switch would no effect anything.
> 
> This effect seems to occur more easily when the threads and contact points are slightly dirty.. i guess by the aluminium powder (abrasion in threads). But even after cleaning the threads and contact points thoroughly with a Q-tip i would sometimes(!) observe this effect:
> overtightening the heads provokes a_ constant-on _state in TURBO-mode.
> 
> Anyones else observed this phenomenon?


 Mine doesn't do that. There is something rattling around in the head though. I took it all apart, the lense and reflector out- but can't see anything.


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Shelm, I'd be careful with overtightening. When in doubt if it's working normally, maybe clean the threads and relubricate them with some teflon lube. No clue where to buy that around our parts though... I figured that head tightened was simply "circuit closed" and head loosened was "circuit open".
Maybe by overtightening you're preventing the half press of the tail clicky to actually be registered.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



TweakMDS said:


> Maybe by overtightening you're preventing the half press of the tail clicky to actually be registered.


Fortunately i cannot reproduce this strange behavior over and over again. Not. These days the light works really fine.

Anybody knows if it is safe and harmless to leave the light running in High-mode (head loosened), unattended, tail standing? We all know that the head gets hot in High-mode and in Turbo-mode only after 1 minute *if* left unattended in tail stand mode at normal room temperature (no winds, no convection).

It's a very hot light


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

It might eventually catch on fire, or the surface it's standing on might get damaged... But realistically, I think the worst thing to happen would be that you break the LED. 

Still, I wouldn't risk high unattended, medium should be fine for that, and for high, I'd rather use a medium or high mode on a larger light.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> *Warning: a LOT more pic heavy than usual. *



So anyone knows what the colored stripes mean?

maybe
blue stripe = old LED's
orange stripe = latest LED's

??

Comparing old youtube videos (D25 Mini's) and the fact that most shown packages must be from COOLWHITE LED's, i dont think that the stripe color has anything to do with the TINT of the LED's.
Please could everyone check their packaging and try to find a correlation between LED, TINT, and STRIPE COLOR?


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> maybe
> blue stripe = old LED's
> orange stripe = latest LED's


More specifically, the blue-stripe boxes in that picture were both XP-G S2. The orange-stripe boxes were XM-L U2.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

... and blue-stripe T20C2 boxes are XM-L T6


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

D25LC2 with XM-L U2 here and orange stripe.


----------



## Chicken Drumstick

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I bought a twisty D25LC2 last year and love it. One of the best design features has to be the clip. Solid and ideal for deep carry. I really don't understand why EagleTac have changed this for the clicky series? The D25C clicky seems to retain this awesome clip arrangement and looks just as compact as it's twisty counter part. Is there a reason the D25LC2 clicky is so different from the twisty?

I also don't really understand how EagleTac could let some of these not tail stand without wobbling, an extra 1-2mm of aluminium would surely solve this?


That said, they do look like nice lights.

With regard to the D25C clicky, running it on an RCR it direct drives the LED, does it retain any other mode, is there a low still?

Thanks.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Chicken Drumstick said:


> With regard to the D25C clicky, running it on an RCR it direct drives the LED, does it retain any other mode, is there a low still?


Yes, the D25C clicky retains the absolute lower Lo mode level on 1xRCR. But all other Lo/Med/Hi levels disappear, and the light is run in max brightness. See the output summary tables at the end of my review for more info.


----------



## arkan

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Reading though the threads I'm still a bit confused on the UI, specifically D25LC2 Clicky. So Group 1 (loosed head), full click Turbo, Full click Strobe? Group B (tight head), half click to switch between low -med- high. But what's the default level in Group B when you fully depress the clicky? I'm aware that D25LC2 does not have memory mode.

Thanks


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

No, full tight is full click = turbo and soft push is strobe.
Loose head is full click is on on low. Soft push to medium, soft push again to high. Repeat low, medium, high, then about seventy five hundred different strobes, etc.
Love the light, wish they buried the flashy thingy strobes more deeply.
But really, I love this light. So powerful yet so tiny. Best EDC.


----------



## arkan

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks for the explanation exactly what i was looking for. Just one thing stopping me right now from ordering it is the UI, i can't imagine using the Turbo in night fishing trips and low is probably too low so i would have to change the mode every time i turn it on which sound like big inconvenience for me. If only they had memory in D25LC2


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

@arkan, it's really easy in practice actually. I usually have the head loosened on mine; then it's full-click-press to turn it on in moonlight, and immediately after I can soft-press for medium.
I normally just use low (moonlight) and medium on the head loosened mode on my D25A, so I never come across the blinky modes.
To get back from medium to low (which rarely happens in practice, think about when you would need that), I long-press the button. If I want to go from medium or low to high, I simply twist the head to tightened.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Has anyone ever tried to lego the Clicky head (e.g. XML U2) onto the Twisty body? Do the threads match (for which D-series models) and what happens then?


----------



## Humminbird

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



arkan said:


> Thanks for the explanation exactly what i was looking for. Just one thing stopping me right now from ordering it is the UI, i can't imagine using the Turbo in night fishing trips and low is probably too low so i would have to change the mode every time i turn it on which sound like big inconvenience for me. If only they had memory in D25LC2



What I did was cut a washer from 1mm thick cardboard. The outer diameter is cut so that it nicely fits inside the head. The washer has a hole in the center so that the AA battery can make contact. The light is now Group B even with the head tightened all the way. I don't miss the turbo mode at all. I have the D25A, so no memory. IMHO the low mode is very usable even with neutral white XM-L. If I need more light, it's just one soft click away. I'm more than happy with D25A Clicky after this modification.


----------



## sidecross

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Humminbird said:


> What I did was cut a washer from 1mm thick cardboard. The outer diameter is cut so that it nicely fits inside the head. The washer has a hole in the center so that the AA battery can make contact. The light is now Group B even with the head tightened all the way. I don't miss the turbo mode at all. I have the D25A, so no memory. IMHO the low mode is very usable even with neutral white XM-L. If I need more light, it's just one soft click away. I'm more than happy with D25A Clicky after this modification.



That is a great idea; using your wits and imagination is what I call intelligence. :thumbsup:


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*















...amazing new update to the Eagtac D25 series!
Does anyone know if the XP-G S2 model is getting fully replaced by the XP-G2 models?
Maybe someone can update this thread with sharing his/her experience with the new XP-G2 D-series models!!

I am most interested in tint performance.

Btw, the beam shot comparison is interesting .. if you look at the picture long enough, you will gradually see the typical donut hole in all three beams.


----------



## orbital

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

^

Just noticed that too,,,,xp-g2


----------



## BLUE LED

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I am tempted, as I have the S2 and U2 versions of D25C and D25LC2.

My experience so far with XP-G2 is that it had eliminated the darker centre of the hotspot. That was in a larger smooth reflector.


----------



## MichaelW

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I would totally like to see what the xp-g2 could do with the C2000 circuit.
Neutral xp-g2 R4 soon?

We don't need no stinkin' xt-e !!


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



MichaelW said:


> I would totally like to see what the xp-g2 could do with the C2000 circuit.
> Neutral xp-g2 R4 soon?
> 
> We don't need no stinkin' xt-e !!



XT-E indeed! I can imagine all the poor EagleTac factory workers sitting at soldering stations frantically retrofitting all the dealer returned shipments of the various iterations of D-Series Clicky's with the XT-E's horrible blue/yellow blotchy beam patterns for XP-G S2's so they could quickly get them back out to market for re-sale! I'm only half-way joking._..I'm guessing this is what probably really occured._


----------



## orbital

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

+

Numbers for D25LC2 



CREE XP-G2 R5 LED
Led lumen: 5305​/172/6 
ANSI FL-1 lumen: 3795​/124/5 
Runtime C1500RC driver: 1.8/3/33/150+ hours w/ 3100mAh 
 


~ Lux could easily be over_* 8000*_ at hotspot,, for a 4.5" 18650 edc

edit: just found this..



XP-G2 R5
Center lux: 8500 lux 
Center spot angle: 7° 
Spill light angle: 64° 
Beam distance: 201 yards / 184 meters 
 
 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



cyclesport said:


> I'm only half-way joking._..I'm guessing this is what probably really occured._



The XT-E's were a story months back. They were returned to the factory long time ago afaik. If anyone did a retrofit, those are already out on the market as U2, T6 NW or S2, i guess. I am believing that the XP-G2 are planted in fresh parts. From my info sources i could tell that the D-series sells really well and has attracted a large amount of first time Eagtac buyers. Thanks to this series the company has been expanding its customer base by quite a bit.

Anyone with a D-series light can take some pride in participating in the company's recent growth and success!


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> The XT-E's were a story months back. They were returned to the factory long time ago afaik. If anyone did a retrofit, those are already out on the market as U2, T6 NW or S2, i guess. I am believing that the XP-G2 are planted in fresh parts. From my info sources i could tell that the D-series sells really well and has attracted a large amount of first time Eagtac buyers. Thanks to this series the company has been expanding its customer base by quite a bit.
> 
> Anyone with a D-series light can take some pride in participating in the company's recent growth and success!



First off, I have nothing but respect for EagleTac as a company, its products, and its customer serv policies shelm...they're first rate! I own 3 of EagleTac's new D-series Clickys and love em'. They took care of a flickering D25C head issue for me when these lights first shipped in the best and fastest way possible...truly exemplary. IMO JetBeam and Sunwayman could take a page from their book. I was joking (perhaps badly) about their unfortunate choice of choosing the XT-E at product launch for these models, since E_T is a company who is one of the quickest adopters of new emitters._..hence they probably took the brunt of whatever flak may have come their way re XT-E's undesirable beam quality. I think it's reasonable though to question ET's release of the XT-E D-series product since the beam quality was so obviously bad? Fact is, good companies sometimes make goofy mistakes and the resulting criticism is justified and isn't necessarily an indictment of the entire company.

You may be right about other emitters being retrofitted in the returned XT-E lights, but I have no doubt these products were reworked for resale. It is a common practice in industrial/consumer electronics production manufacturing to retrofit or otherwise repair defective products to save waste, and protect the "bottom line". Actually, these reworked products sometimes carry less risk of failure because they're commonly subjected to complete testing of all functions after rework to assure no other problems exist.

Sorry for the bad pun.


----------



## reppans

Erik1213 said:


> Just wanted to add in, I have the EagleTac D25A clicky with a neutral white XP-G and on moonlight mode, there is very noticeable PWM. However, the only way to notice it is to look at the emitter and shake the light from side to side. Walking with the light doesn't show the PWM, I am assuming it is because the output is so low.





selfbuilt said:


> That's likely some sort circuit flicker. There is no PWM to speak of on any mode I examined. But flicker is always possible, depending on the tolerances of the components at lower currents. I will double-check all my samples to see if I can notice any.
> 
> _EDIT: Just double-checked, and all my lights are firmly flicker-free on their moonlight/lowest Lo mode. It's likely you have a problem sample. It can be difficult to reliably produce current-control at low currents, and I've seen other makers have issues on this front. If it is distracting, you might want to consider a RMA._



Just wanted to add my experience having bought three D25A Ti Clickies in XML Neutral White, two of which I will give away as gifts.

First off, all show signs of PWM on moonlight mode but interestingly to varying degrees, which is a bit annoying since ET states all current controlled for all levels. Selfbuilt has not tested the D25A here and ET shows that it uses a different circuit than C, A2 and LC2. 

One shows PWM mildly but only at lower voltages like <1.3V on a NiMh, one is only barely detectable at low voltages (the keeper), and one seems to show it majorly at any voltage level. Here is a pic of the middle mild PWM sample vs a Quark AAX on moonlight mode using my usual camera detection methods.... cellphone close-up and DSLR time exposure:






There were also other quality issues on my units:
- one was shipped without a lens
- two show pinched O-rings in 2-3 spots around the tailcap (which appears to be glued down).
- one wouldn't go into turbo easily until I effectively "re-cut" the last 1 mm of threads by cranking the bezel back and forth hard a few dozen times, of course followed by a cleaning and re-lubing.

Not sure if this typical of ET quality, and perhaps it's just the batch that I have - all serial numbers were within 100 units.

Having said all that, I still do love this light. Great beam, tint, UI, clip and it couldn't be more handsome or portable. PWM isn't necessarily a deal breaker for me but CC is much nicer, and I while I don't think my lights' O-rings are waterproof anymore, I don't really expect to use it any significant rain anyway. 

Yes, it is very reasonably priced.... but IMHO, there is a reason for that.


----------



## reppans

cyclesport said:


> First off, I have nothing but respect for EagleTac as a company, its products, and its customer serv policies shelm...they're first rate! ... They took care of a flickering D25C head issue for me when these lights first shipped in the best and fastest way possible...truly exemplary...



Very interested in where you are located, where you shipped back to, and was the dealer standing in the middle, or was this ET themselves. Reason I ask is that there was a recent thread where ET asked the US customer to ship his light back to HK for warranty repair, which of course at $40 shipping cost, effectively made the 10 warranty useless to him.


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



reppans said:


> Very interested in where you are located, where you shipped back to, and was the dealer standing in the middle, or was this ET themselves. Reason I ask is that there was a recent thread where ET asked the US customer to ship his light back to HK for warranty repair, which of course at $40 shipping cost, effectively made the 10 warranty useless to him.



I'm in the US and was one of those to get my D25C shipped from LightJunction from their waiting list when the product was first launched. Upon noticing the flicker I contacted LJ who in turn contacted ET and suggested I do the same. I emailed ET in China with a description and short video of the problem and ET got back in touch w/me within 48 hours explaining that their engineers had found a problem w/the driver, was repairing all existing product, and was sending me a new head. I had it with 10 days (if memory serves) completely fixing the problem. I even got to keep the original head as a spare since its fine with CR123 primaries and even 16340 Li-ions in all but low mode (moonlight even functions as designed). I had to send nothing back to anyone. In hindsight, Imay have been just lucky w/such good service though, since I sent mine back before most others realized there was a flicker issue.

I remember reading CPF threads a few mo's back where others had experienced ET cust. service that was less than stellar, and your example is completely unacceptable. Not sure why the disparity in treatment other than I was (as ET stated to me) the first to point out the flickering isuue that many lights had. Just speculation, but maybe ET was inundated with demands for new lights or repairs and their costs mounted, prompting them to put the shipping cost burden back on the customer?

I try not to be a rabid "fanboy" of any products I use or purchase as tempting as it sometimes is, since in my experience and with more companies being controled by their accounting dept's, doing what is right quickly takes a back seat to profits if the costs start sprialing out of control w/mass recalls, repairs, etc. I worked as a marketing guy/liasion w/ QA and manufacturing engineers for many years before retiring and my cynicism of corporate culture has been earned.


----------



## reppans

Interesting story.... guess they kinda compensated you for inadvertently becoming one of their beta testers.


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



reppans said:


> Interesting story.... guess they kinda compensated you for inadvertently becoming one of their beta testers.



Haha...yeah...I suppose you're right.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

you two talking about the Titanium lights? werent tested by selfbuilt 
What do we assume about the Liion brightness of the D25A (Ti or not, should be the same?) Clicky? 
The D25C has a bigger diameter reflector than the D25A but in direct drive the LED lumens should be the same:







Any opinions on that?

What would be our guesstimate for the D25A Clicky @ 1x14500? A little less than 770 ANSI lumens or much less?


----------



## jomox

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Great review, very detailed and insightful, helps allot with potentially buying them.


----------



## reppans

The A has a different circuit then the C so I don't know if that will affect anything, but I personally don't bother with lights (or should I say batts) that go into direct drive. The loss of lower modes makes the light useless to me. 

I'll keep my 14500s for use in my Quark AAX... not to mention that I think the D25 gets hotter on NiMhs then my Quark gets on a 14500.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Well my first D25LC2 was completely defective.The replacement has been EDC'd by me every day since. It flickers if on high too long, (just enough to get warm) I think because lube thins out with heat and the head fits so poorly to the body because the threading is so loose. I've resorted to thick white lithium grease, which helped. 

A couple months ago something started rattling around inside the head, like behind the reflector.. didn't seem to hurt anything. Now just today it stopped operating consistently. It won't turn on everytime. I tightened tail cap switch retainer ring with needle nose plyers.. cleaned and relubed everything.. made sure tailcap was tight.. still it is unreliable.

Another weird thing is that there is a huge build up of dust and lint behind the lens somehow thay keeps getting worse, yet it seems waterproof.. I don't understand that at all. I love the idea of this compact, lightweight, 1x 18650, XM-L U2 flashlight.. but I don't think the build quality is up to par. My Fenix lights have been the benchmark, followed closely by O-Light, Xtar, 4sevens, then Spark with defective light after defective light (but a great headlamp), Eagletac with poor quality and defective lights, and finally Zebralight with 6 defective H501 all failing the exact same way -none abused.

Ironic then that I'm seriously thinking of replacing my D25LC2 with a Zebralight SC600.. even though I told myself I'd never buy another ZL. Actually, I probably won't buy a ZL... I think I talked myself out of it again.. 

-BUT- I want a small 1x 18650, XM-L U2 light, but not a 3rd Eagletac- even though I might get one as a replacement for the cost of shipping.. I might just stick it in a drawer and forget about it.. and just say, lessoned learned, no more Eagletacs for me.


----------



## bemymonkey

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I was just about to order a D25LC2, but the last few posts are pretty disappointing... anyone else had issues?


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Love my D25LC2. My friend liked it so much he bought one. We are both very happy with the lights and they have become the EDC for both of us.
Perfect build quality, functions well, fit of head and tailcap to body tube is great. We can't say anything bad about them.
Well, maybe the 7,346 different flashy/stroby settings, but I just don't use those.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I got mine fairly early on, maybe they've improved, who knows. I love it when it works right.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

My D25LC2 is built as great as any other light from this factory: Olight, ITP, 4Sevens. Perfect fit and finish, well-centered LED, beautiful floody XML beam.
I would fear that after long-time usage the small-ish threads could wear off because they are bare aluminum threads like 4Sevens Quark threads but you get 10 years performance guarantee so no need to worry.

It is also easy to replace the lens if it is broken or you wanted to deploy a diffuser lens for an even floodier beam.

In terms of build quality or production quality, i would rate Eagletac lights 100% on a par with Olight, ITP or 4Sevens production lights. Not worse nor any better than them.


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I hear you! I got one of the first D25LC2's when released and it has been perfect in every way, and was recently thinking of getting another one but w/all these recent complaints of numerous ET Customer Service and QA issues, I'm reconsidering it. Makes me think there's been a manufacturing glitch and somehow a bad bunch of D-Series lights has made it to market...it happens. If I do, I'll get it from Illumination Gear since I'm sure Tod will take care of any issues that might occur...that guy is golden in my book, and truly stands behind everything he sells.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

So on your guy's LC2 the head doesn't wiggle back and forth about 2mm when about 1/2 turn loose? WTF mine's ridiculous.. since day one, and this was a replacement for first one that was defective (driver was FUBAR wouldn't turn on in head tight mode for more that 1 sec.). Amazing I can get two messed up ones.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> So on your guy's LC2 the head doesn't wiggle back and forth about 2mm when about 1/2 turn loose?



Not with the o-ring on.
( and none of us dares to remove the o-ring. it is soo thin and delicate looking. )


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Hmm. my o-ring is there.. bet I got high end of QC tolerance head and low end of QC tolerance body and it's just a poor fit.. Unless they changed oring size to bigger after I got mine? I don't know.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Assuming that you got indeed a poor sample, i would not hesitate a day to contact your dealer and or Eagletac to ask for "some solution". If the product build quality doesnt satisfy you because yours is a poor sample, then Eagletac manufacturer and or dealer will do their best to provide something better. There's really no need to put up with an inferior sample.

Premium brand Eagletac is to please its users


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I'm considering an LC2 in XP-G2 as well, has anyone seen them "in the wild" yet?


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



TweakMDS said:


> I'm considering an LC2 in XP-G2 as well, has anyone seen them "in the wild" yet?



Not yet. Please dont make your vote too early!


[h=3]Poll: EagleTac D25-series: Which model(s) did you buy?[/h]


----------



## reppans

BWX said:


> ... Amazing I can get two messed up ones.



Well, doesn't surprise me - as I mentioned in a post above, I got three D25A Ti Clickies and all three have different quality issues, although not as bad as yours sound.



BWX said:


> Another weird thing is that there is a huge build up of dust and lint behind the lens somehow thay keeps getting worse, yet it seems waterproof.. I don't understand that at all.



I have to laugh at this one.... this was how I finally discovered one my units was shipped with no lens! - and after a couple days of using it. I've even compared all three units looking for lens scratches and thought it was odd when I couldn't see the purplish reflection of the anti-glare coating on one sample (though the lens was in backwards). 

(I have a habit of never touching optical glass, except to clean it with fluid)


----------



## kaabob

reppans said:


> Well, doesn't surprise me - as I mentioned in a post above, I got three D25A Ti Clickies and all three have different quality issues, although not as bad as yours sound.
> 
> 
> 
> I have to laugh at this one.... this was how I finally discovered one my units was shipped with no lens! - and after a couple days of using it. I've even compared all three units looking for lens scratches and thought it was odd when I couldn't see the purplish reflection of the anti-glare coating on one sample (though the lens was in backwards).
> 
> (I have a habit of never touching optical glass, except to clean it with fluid)



Btw what fluid did u use to clean lenses with AR coating? Pressed the lens accidentally once instead of the gitd button. At least my to ti d25c clicky has a lens 

Sent from my HTC Ruby using Tapatalk 2


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Another question,
does NE1 know *how well* the Quark diffuser (Quark prism) fits on the D25LC2 Clicky bezel?
I am sure that it fits. But i am not sure how well it fits. Too tight? too lose.
And what are the performance results? Recommendable, or better pass?

Another point of consideration is the generation of heat. The SS bezel gets really hot very fast. How does the high temperature influence the rubber? High degree of influence? Very bad?







Well, the chances that 1 cpf user owns both a Quark and the Quark prism *and *the Eagletac D25LC2 Clicky are rather low i guess


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> does NE1 know *how well* the Quark diffuser (Quark prism) fits on the D25LC2 Clicky bezel?
> I am sure that it fits. But i am not sure how well it fits. Too tight? too lose.


It fits fine. It is slightly more snug than on the Quark line, but I was able to get it on/off the D25LC2 without too much difficulty. It certainly won't fall off accidentally.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks for testing!! Fitting accessory for the D25LC2 Clicky then, good to know!

I hope that the rubber material wont disintegrate or get damaged after long time use on HI (not TURBO) mode  . Maybe the diffuser lens could be used as direct replacement for the D25LC2 Clicky glass?

Well, if the two lenses have the same diameter and the same thickness, in theory this would work. But there may be cheaper alternatives to get a diffuser lens for the D25LC2!

the 4sevens prism is rather pricey!


----------



## reppans

kaabob said:


> Btw what fluid did u use to clean lenses with AR coating? Pressed the lens accidentally once instead of the gitd button. At least my to ti d25c clicky has a lens
> 
> Sent from my HTC Ruby using Tapatalk 2



I just used tiny spritz of windex on a tissue for the D25, but what I really meant was for my eyeglasses.... I never touch the lens except to wash with soap and water, followed by a tissue drying. I'd consider the same for my flashlights, but I doubt my D25s are waterproof - most have pinched O-rings on the tailcap (which feels like it is glued on).


----------



## Korgath

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

A big kudos to self built for this awesome great review. And to all posters to this thread. Now my 1+hour to read/digest all these information...Anyone had the d25A clicky?


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Korgath said:


> Anyone had the d25A clicky?



you Serious?

It is one of the least popular models in that series.


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Selfbuilt, thanks for this astonishing review.
It happens that I own a D25C Ti flashlight.
Do you think it would be worth investing in a couple of AW's LiFePo4 cells (in order not to lose the various levels)?

Thanks in advance


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



daberti said:


> It happens that I own a D25C Ti flashlight.
> Do you think it would be worth investing in a couple of AW's LiFePo4 cells (in order not to lose the various levels)?


It's a good question. I haven't tested LiFePO4 cells in these lights, so I don't know how they perform. It's possible a fuller range of mode levels would be supported ... has anyone here tried it?


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I'll test it myself as soon as my LiFePO4 cells from AW will arrive 



selfbuilt said:


> It's a good question. I haven't tested LiFePO4 cells in these lights, so I don't know how they perform. It's possible a fuller range of mode levels would be supported ... has anyone here tried it?


----------



## Dalvik120

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



daberti said:


> I'll test it myself as soon as my LiFePO4 cells from AW will arrive



Have they arrived yet?


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Dalvik120 said:


> Have they arrived yet?



Received today. BTW I didn't receive the notification of your reply 

Good news: all levels work as expected!! :thumbsup:


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

It is a pity that we dont have comparative data for the D25A (e.g. the coolwhites XML U2 or XP-G2). Ive been checking and comparing D25A reviews by several other reviewers and it seems that the XML U2 D25A on Eneloops is one of the brightest 1xAA lights of its kind, even brighter than Quark X AA² (with 1x Eneloop AA).

Since the Quark XP-G2 is out, it would be an interesting comparison: D25A XP-G2 vs. Quark XP-G2, on 1x Eneloop AA.

It would be great to have official output data (measured by selfbuilt) for the D25A XP-G2 and D25A XM-L U2 since the D25A appears to be a well-selling model from the D25-series.

Such data would be helpful only to satisfy my (or our) curiosity, i admit. Why? Because this CPF review thread is already among the "most active" review threads ever and has enhanced popularity and sales of these models to such a degree that probably every regular CPF reader is well aware of Eagletac and Eagletac D25-series.

Eagtac brand probably doesnt need/want more models of the series reviewed in this very thread. And since the D25-series has had already vast exposure on CPF i dont think that the company is too interested in sending out more review samples, e.g. the D25A models..

*sigh*

Anyway, @selfbuilt, would you expand the OP review with data/graphs/tests/measurements/photos/descriptions of the D25A models if the company sent you D25A XML U2 *and* D25A XP-G2?  -- Maybe they are reading/listening right now


----------



## STR

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> It is a pity that we dont have comparative data for the D25A (e.g. the coolwhites XML U2 or XP-G2). Ive been checking and comparing D25A reviews by several other reviewers and it seems that the XML U2 D25A on Eneloops is one of the brightest 1xAA lights of its kind, even brighter than Quark X AA² (with 1x Eneloop AA).
> 
> Since the Quark XP-G2 is out, it would be an interesting comparison: D25A XP-G2 vs. Quark XP-G2, on 1x Eneloop AA.
> 
> It would be great to have official output data (measured by selfbuilt) for the D25A XP-G2 and D25A XM-L U2 since the D25A appears to be a well-selling model from the D25-series.
> 
> Such data would be helpful only to satisfy my (or our) curiosity, i admit. Why? Because this CPF review thread is already among the "most active" review threads ever and has enhanced popularity and sales of these models to such a degree that probably every regular CPF reader is well aware of Eagletac and Eagletac D25-series.
> 
> Eagtac brand probably doesnt need/want more models of the series reviewed in this very thread. And since the D25-series has had already vast exposure on CPF i dont think that the company is too interested in sending out more review samples, e.g. the D25A models..
> 
> *sigh*
> 
> Anyway, @selfbuilt, would you expand the OP review with data/graphs/tests/measurements/photos/descriptions of the D25A models if the company sent you D25A XML U2 *and* D25A XP-G2?  -- Maybe they are reading/listening right now




I can confirm that it does well with eneloops and it is a singer with 14500s in it. The emitter can really sing out and sometimes I'll turn it off and back on to shut it up. Tis a tad annoying to be honest but what brightness. This is my brightest light. The D25AM in Ti in the twisty that I own is brighter not just by a little but quite a bit more so than my JetBeam PA10 and I know that one is 330-340 Lumens with a fresh A&W 750mAh battery in it. The same battery in the D25 simply astounds. There is not better word for it. Mine has the cool white XM-L-U2. I love the wow factor of the light. It gets hot fast though and man do I mean hot. Being a twisty it can be necessary to grab something like a shirt or a pot holder to turn it off if you wait over a minute with a new battery. I think EagleTac is now saying in the literature to just use it thirty second bursts on a fresh battery. I do love the light with a regular Eneloop though. I use those a lot. I do not like the way low is the first setting on my light though. It is too low to begin with and medium is fine for most indoor uses. Bright is surprising even with the Eneloop in it. I get good run times with my Eneloops too which is another surprise. The Jetbeam kills those faster but this one seems to like em. I can't explain the better efficiency. I can pull one I've been using that is no longer one I can tolerate in the JetBeam and put that battery in the D25A and still use it a little more with acceptable light too which is something else to note.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



STR said:


> I get good run times with my Eneloops too which is another surprise. The Jetbeam kills those faster but this one seems to like em. I can't explain the better efficiency.



+ 1

I measured runtimes repeatedly and published them in the Clicky Ti thread. The repeated runtime testruns ensure that the numbers are valid: awesome runtimes.

Question is, which 1xEneloop AA light is brighter or more efficient than the D25A XML U2 CW? Only Zebralight SC51 or SC52 comes to my mind. Then the question is, how much brighter and more efficient is Zebralight?

Tough comparison. The SC52 isnt out yet nor do we have selfbuilt measurements for the D25A XML U2. D*mn!


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> Anyway, @selfbuilt, would you expand the OP review with data/graphs/tests/measurements/photos/descriptions of the D25A models if the company sent you D25A XML U2 *and* D25A XP-G2?  -- Maybe they are reading/listening right now


If Eagletac wants to sent me a D25A, I would be happy to add it to the review. 



STR said:


> I can confirm that it does well with eneloops and it is a singer with 14500s in it. The emitter can really sing out and sometimes I'll turn it off and back on to shut it up.


Hmmm, likely some sort of inductor whine. Inductor hum/whine is highly variable, and generally related to specific drive levels on specific voltage sources (i.e., it's a resonance effect in the inductor coil, so the specific frequency matters greatly).


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



daberti said:


> Received today. BTW I didn't receive the notification of your reply
> 
> Good news: all levels work as expected!! :thumbsup:



Update: tested also on JB RRT-01. This one shuts off when there is no more juice with these cells, and mesured V is 2.33 .
Will let you know if same goes with D25C.
In both cases I have to note that flashlights run noticeable cooler at max output!


----------



## Zeruel

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Selfbuilt, I would appreciate if you could confirm the brightness levels available for D25A Clicky when 14500 is used. I seem to read contradictory reports from users here and from EagleTac CS. Thanks.


----------



## ZRXBILL

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Zeruel said:


> Selfbuilt, I would appreciate if you could confirm the brightness levels available for D25A Clicky when 14500 is used. I seem to read contradictory reports from users here and from EagleTac CS. Thanks.



He has only reviewed the A2 model & not the D25A so far.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Zeruel said:


> Selfbuilt, I would appreciate if you could confirm the brightness levels available for D25A Clicky when 14500 is used. I seem to read contradictory reports from users here and from EagleTac CS. Thanks.


Happy to if they send me one.


----------



## Zeruel

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



ZRXBILL said:


> He has only reviewed the A2 model & not the D25A so far.





selfbuilt said:


> Happy to if they send me one.




Well, I'll be damn. Can I blame it on my aging eyesight?


----------



## bemymonkey

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Hey guys, is there a noticeable difference in perceived brightness and/or heat output between the D25LC2 Clicky with XM-L T6 vs. U2? I can't quite decide, never having seen anything other than a T6 (and I'm not even sure what color bin this one is)... more light output sounds good, but is it really noticeable in the D25LC2 Clicky? And do you think it's worth the move from neutral white to cool white?

-edit- Never mind, ordered NW... maybe CW for Christmas?


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



bemymonkey said:


> Hey guys, is there a noticeable difference in perceived brightness and/or heat output between the D25LC2 Clicky with XM-L T6 vs. U2?


As a general rule, the answer to these questions are no - you will not perceive a difference. 

The U2 tint bin is simply the next one up from T6. That means that on average, a U2 would be expected to be ~6-7% brighter. But given how binning works, any given U2 could be anywhere from ~1-14% brighter than a given T6 (i.e., depending where in the bin range each one falls). This is low enough to not be generally perceptible for output or temperature. There will also be differences in emitter Vf and various circuit components, all contributing to overall output and runtime variation.


----------



## bemymonkey

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks for the reassurance - I ordered the NW version a few hours ago


----------



## Match

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Zeruel said:


> Selfbuilt, I would appreciate if you could confirm the brightness levels available for D25A Clicky when 14500 is used. I seem to read contradictory reports from users here and from EagleTac CS. Thanks.



I can answer this one for you, at least for the D25A Ti xml NW:

1xAA eneloop
Moonmode: .43L
LowerMed: 13.4L
High : 93.3L
Turbo: 150.2 L
Throw = 740cd in turbo

The readings above were the same on either eneloops or lithium primaries. As far as 14500's go, only two modes are available (not counting strobe). The following measurements were taken while on a AW IMR 14500:
Low: 7.6L
High: 577L
Throw = 2,600cd

Hope that helps,
-Match


----------



## bloopdedoop

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Hello CPF,

I've been lurking here for awhile. Just wondering if some of you could chime in on my new D25C (XM-L). My light doesn't exhibit any of the QC issues mentioned in the thread (intact o-ring, well matched threads, no missing front lens) but does have some unique "issues". I haven't followed LED tech in awhile (ever since Cree came out with the first XR-E) so I'm not sure what to expect and thus, do not know if my issues are actually issues at all.

Pardon the image quality, these were taken with my cell phone.

1. At certain angles, there is a distinct blue tint. I tried to capture it in the pictures below (the first one is oversaturated to accentuate the blue. The last picture is not edited at all, it really is_ that_​ blue). Not sure if this is unique to the XM-L emitter...














2. There seems to be slight dust on the top of the emitter lens as well as what looks like tiny bubbles either within the silicone lens or on the reflector surface. It doesn't really affect the beam during use, but annoys me nonetheless (being slightly OCD about the quality of things I buy). Is this RMA worthy or should I just relax?


----------



## astein29

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Selfbuilt
I have a D25LC2 and just bought my first 18650 battery to use in this light. I picked up an Eagletac 2500mAh. It appears that at a certain voltage (I'll estimate 3.90V), the light doesn't output the turbo output (660 lm), but rather something lower (maybe the stepped down output?). When shifting from Hi to Turbo, there appears to be very little difference between light output. Comparatively, using 2 CR123s, the difference between Hi to Turbo is much more distinctive. (I only have my eyes to judge)

My question is this: Do you have any date suggesting that when the 18650 falls below a certain voltage, Turbo output can no longer be achieved? Or does this sound like more of a battery problem? I thought the Eagletac batteries were quality, however my particular cell says, "Made in China." 

Thanks for whatever information you can give provide.

PS - The cell has difficulty maintaining Turbo on my TK21, however I thought it was a problem with my light (I pre-ordered the TK21 and have read about circuit problems on the first batch).

EDIT: I have the XM-L U2 version of the light


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Well I have both of the same lights as you have and also use Eagletac batteries (as well as AW) and I have never seen the issue you have with either of the lights.
I can run down to 3.8x with no problems.
I guess that's no help to you but I just thought I would put it out there.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



astein29 said:


> I picked up an Eagletac 2500mAh. It appears that at a certain voltage (I'll estimate 3.90V), the light doesn't output the turbo output (660 lm), but rather something lower (maybe the stepped down output?). When shifting from Hi to Turbo, there appears to be very little difference between light output. Comparatively, using 2 CR123s, the difference between Hi to Turbo is much more distinctive. (I only have my eyes to judge)



There should be a difference between the Turbo and Hi, even on a partially depleted cell. But they may not be very great - the fully regulated level of Turbo (after the step-down) is only ~15% higher than the regulated Hi. If your cell is having a hard time providing full power on Turbo (i.e., before the step-down), I could see it's possible that the difference might only be that great.

Easiest thing would be to recommend you pick up another cell and see if the behaviour is consistent. You might want to try one of the newer high capacity 3100mAh cells, as they are all built around the same Panasonic core.


----------



## Verndog

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> There should be a difference between the Turbo and Hi, even on a partially depleted cell.* But they may not be very great* - the fully regulated level of Turbo (after the step-down) is only ~15% higher than the regulated Hi.



Exactly what I've noticed with my brand new light and new 3100's. There is a difference from high to turbo, but at that intensity it's not very noticeable, in fact I'd go so far as to say that for the additional heat and runtime loss not worth even using turbo...IMO. High is so bright for a small light, who even cares?


----------



## astein29

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks for the advice. I just ordered a 3400mAh Eagletac and will see if that solves the problem with both lights


----------



## bemymonkey

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Seeing the same thing on my D25LC2 Clicky XP-G2 with protected Panasonic NCR18650A 3100mAh...


----------



## buck110

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks for the great review. I can't wait to get my first Eagletac.


----------



## naiter

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

My D25A clicky showed up today. no QC problems at all. love it.

On a 14500 battery, moonlight low ends up being a useful _normal_ setting (somewhere between 20-60lm), every other level is direct drive. it ends up being a great 2 mode light. Max is bright as hell, visibly a little brighter than Olight S10 on RCR123s, (barely tighter hotspot too). It heats up fast though. I would not leave it unattended whatsoever. So if you needed constant strobe, or a constant higher setting, bring an AA Eneloop.
As a two mode light is actually very useful and easy. no memory so it always turns on to _normal_, then I can get max whenever instantly with no fuss (soft click or twist tight). sucks loosing moonlight, but changing between their 'moonlight low' and 'regular low' is a blinding hassle anyways...(if i had bought the D25C on rcr123 that seems to have 3 modes) but regular AA use in Moonlight mode is still a great UI.

one quality note: when on 'moonlight low' with Eneloop, it blasts 'regular low'((?)) level for a split second before going to moonlight, messing with night adjusted vision. This would bother me if i wasn't planning on regularly running 14500s.

I had these question before I got it so I figured it put the answer in this thread. I'm extremely please with this light.

Now just time will tell whether or not I grab the eagletac or the Olight s10 if i only take one light somewhere...(I'm guessing Olight because of moonlight and built in battery)


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



naiter said:


> one quality note: when on 'moonlight low' with Eneloop, it blasts 'regular low'((?)) level for a split second before going to moonlight


That's normal, we have that too. 
1xAA flashlights which do a perfect job on both Eneloop (top brightness, top efficiency) and 14500 (top brightness, top efficiency) are totally rare tbh. D25A is top bright on Eneloop/14500 but goes into direct drive with 14500 and has that one quality note, yes.
Xeno E03 is dim on Eneloop and really inefficient imo (runtimes and brightness stabilization) compared to D25A, Balder SE-1 is even worse (but also much cheaper, so it's unfair to compare!). Many other flashlights go into direct drive with 14500 too, P1A, JR30, BA10, PA10, LD10, LD12, ..
Off the top of my head only 2 flashlights come into my mind who have better electronics than the D25A: the SC52 and the Quark. These 2 are top bright and top efficient on both Eneloop and 14500. So there we have it, the Top3 most important, best 1xAA/14500 EDC flashlights on the market as of 2012:


*D25A
*
* SC52
*
* Quark*


----------



## jhc37013

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



astein29 said:


> Thanks for the advice. I just ordered a 3400mAh Eagletac and will see if that solves the problem with both lights



The 3100mah and 3400mah cells are both 4.2 volts so you won't see any difference in output, the difference is capacity or energy stored so the only thing you may notice is a few more minutes of runtime. I really like those 3400mah Eagletac cells so at least you will have some more fantastic cells.


----------



## naiter

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> So there we have it, the Top3 most important, best 1xAA/14500 EDC flashlights on the market as of 2012:
> 
> 
> *D25A
> *
> * SC52
> *
> * Quark*



except the 4sevens is still XP-G vs XM-L so tighter hotspot and about 1/3 the lumen... 4sevens was my second highh end light, after fenix. i really want to buy another one, but they are still a bit behind. I'm hoping they'll be the cats meow in their next release.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



naiter said:


> except the 4sevens is still XP-G


4sevens exists in all flavors (XML, XPG 1st gen, XPG 2nd gen, .., tint choices), SC52 in future too (XML, XP-G2, .., tint options). D25A already exists in ALL flavors. Therefore it is easy and fair to compare. Quark X against D25A U2 against SC52 XML.

Quark is really good and most of all: versatile. 

*XML tint* maybe a problem with all 3 flashlight models, because the XML's are product of CREE and not of 4sevens/eagtac/zebralight.


----------



## reppans

shelm said:


> ...Therefore it is easy and fair to compare. Quark X against D25A U2 against SC52 XML.



I've done some spot testing between the three in NW versions (well only H51w R5 for now), using a DSLR as a lumen meter (understanding its 1/3 stop granularity). 

On an Eneloop, the 47X edged out the other two in max lumens - 160 vs 125.
On a 14500, the ETX edged out the 47X in max lumens - 400 vs 325
On moonlight runtimes the 47X was 50% the runtime of 47R5 and ZLR5 (~400 hrs Alk )
On 2.5-3lm low runtimes, the ETX and 47X were 60% the runtime of 47R5 (~50 hrs NiMh)

ZL52 has posted specs that obliterate these numbers (as in 2x as good), wonder what they've figured out with the XML that nobody else seems to be able to?


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



reppans said:


> I've done some spot testing (...)
> 
> On an Eneloop, the 47X edged out the other two in max lumens - 160 vs 125.



Is the spot testing comparable to a lumens lightbox?
In a ceiling bounce, on Eneloop, my eyes tell me that 47X and ETX are the same .. i'd even give the edge to ETX because its XML tint is far less greenish than 47X, and _that _makes a beam look brighter of course.

Are you going to get the SC52 in future? Let's learn how the ETX compares to it in RL!


----------



## reppans

shelm said:


> Is the spot testing comparable to a lumens lightbox?
> In a ceiling bounce, on Eneloop, my eyes tell me that 47X and ETX are the same .. i'd even give the edge to ETX because its XML tint is far less greenish than 47X, and _that _makes a beam look brighter of course.
> 
> Are you going to get the SC52 in future? Let's learn how the ETX compares to it in RL!



Using a DSLR as a lumen meter is not going to be as accurate as dedicated light meter, the ceiling bounce test is no lightbox, and the 1/3 stop granularity implies about +-17 lms @ 100, for example. But I have found it to be far, far more accurate than what I can perceive with my eye (which always gets completely thrown off by minor variations in tint).

The 47X on high (Eneloop) metered the same as the others on max (125 lumens) but then was able bump the DSLR meter up by a 1/3rd stop on max. I circled the same battery through all 3 lights, twice. 

As for tint, all three are NW versions...I'm not a tint snob and find my eyes have a kinda white balance to them so all feel fine in normal use, but side-by-side, the ZL is red, the ET is yellow, and 47 is well, what I consider to be perfectly neutral. 

I have cool white versions 47X, actually a lot (purchased for gifts during the great rebranding clearances), and have seen varying levels of greenish tint... I picked the whitest for myself, none are close the green of my S2 Quark, but even that is not a deal breaker for me. 

I'm not a huge ZL fan due to their poor warranty and (in my example) what I consider to be bait-and-switch marketing tactics. Yeah, I know Selfbuilt said XYZ... but I believe in sample variation and who's sending these samples to him? I don't measure 400 lumens from my Quark X either.... just what they spec'd. I will say, the ZL's moonlight runtime was definitely there and I do like ZLs build quality and UI.

No rush for the SC52, but I'll probably get an H52w when it comes out... if my H51w is still operational. Might as well get a ZL for its unique headlamp attributes. I will be monitoring the user reviews though and will ask anyone with a DSLR to perform the lumen metering test... it's the easiest, most objective test I can come up with that uses a somewhat common tool.

This is my favorite genre of lights.... 1xAA/14500 (when possible) with long running moonlight modes and other single digit low lumens, and I'll buy from anyone that will produce them... as you say, they're all to rare.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

:thumbsup: Thanks reppans for the elaborate explanation, appreciated!

The D25A discussion (i have xml U2 cw and got the xp-g2 R5 cw on order!) will continue when we Eagletac owners got a sample of SC52 (xml or xp-g2).. 
I am in no hurry either. I wont be surprised if people state that they dont perceive a brightness difference between these 2 lights. The greenish tint of SC52 xml does kill much of the perception, that's the point!


----------



## reppans

shelm said:


> ...I am in no hurry either...



Haha... you are OBLIGATED to buy one NOW.. you started the dang thread!


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



reppans said:


> Haha... you are OBLIGATED to buy one NOW.. you started the dang thread!



you mean the sc52 **oll thread? dang!! you got me! 
( if more ppl report that it is a greenish xml, then no sc52* xml* for me thanks, haha! )


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



astein29 said:


> Selfbuilt
> I have a D25LC2 and just bought my first 18650 battery to use in this light. I picked up an Eagletac 2500mAh. It appears that at a certain voltage (I'll estimate 3.90V), the light doesn't output the turbo output (660 lm), but rather something lower (maybe the stepped down output?). When shifting from Hi to Turbo, there appears to be very little difference between light output. Comparatively, using 2 CR123s, the difference between Hi to Turbo is much more distinctive. (I only have my eyes to judge)
> 
> My question is this: Do you have any date suggesting that when the 18650 falls below a certain voltage, Turbo output can no longer be achieved? Or does this sound like more of a battery problem? I thought the Eagletac batteries were quality, however my particular cell says, "Made in China."
> 
> Thanks for whatever information you can give provide.
> 
> PS - The cell has difficulty maintaining Turbo on my TK21, however I thought it was a problem with my light (I pre-ordered the TK21 and have read about circuit problems on the first batch).
> 
> EDIT: I have the XM-L U2 version of the light



I've been edc'ing the XML (d25lc2) every day for months now. I have a bunch of 3100 mah protected (panasonic) xtar 18560s and a few blue trustfire protected 2600 mah from going gear (they aren't ultrafire laptop recycled junk).. 

Anyway here is what I have noticed, and this happens every time I use it on high for any amount of time.. With the head tightened the high mode is a little brighter than the high mode with the head loosened. After the light has been on for a few minutes and is in high mode with head tightend or even high mode with head loosened, when you go to head tightened high mode, there won't be a noticeable difference because it drops down into a 'lower output' high mode. It's still very bright, but not quite as bright as when you first turn it on and it is cold. If you wait 5 minutes and turn the light on in head tightened high mode, then go to loose head high mode, you'll notice the tightened high mode is brighter again for a few minutes. It doesn't have anything to do with battery voltage for me, it's just a timer.


----------



## jomox

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Had my D25A2 clicky for a little bit now so thought may give a little summary on my thoughts to maybe help potential buyers. Hopefully the correct topic and this review did help allot in ordering the D25A2, so thanks for the extensive detailed review.

Firstly the build quality is of great quality, very solid and great finish, warranty from Eagtac seems great also so not in the slightest worried about anything going wrong, if it does it seems it will get replaced with ease, but so far very solid, seems like it could be very durable (But time will tell)

I did buy this as a general light so I think the D25LC2 would of been much more suited for me, but I needed AA. I find it most handy at close combat situations, it lights up dark rooms well and is good in the woods on narrow trails, it don't throw that far or flood/spill an area that wide either, I just find it good for those closer distances lighting up trails in the woods and the area in front of you, or handy around the home at night. It's not very good out in the open, only at lighting up what's closer to you. 

So for me, the D25A2 has it's place for when going into the woods, mainly, it works well there.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I am here to report how lovely the new 2013 D25A Clicky Ti is with new driver (A400RC III!!!) and new XP-G2 led. selfbuilt had measured 150 ANSI lumens for the Rofis JR30, which i own and appreciate for its pure white CW tint. My eyes can tell by white ceiling bounce in a white painted staircase that the XP-G2 is _very easily_ *noticeably *brighter than that, amazing! So if we take the number "150" as base or reference, then i would estimate the Eagletac's relative output as *200 ANSI lumens*, even though it is rated only at *121 ANSI lumens* on the Eagtac webpage.

The very best 1xAA lights on the market are to date: *Quark*, *D25A *w/ A400RC III, *SC52 *(greenish haze in the XML cw beam!), and *Thrunite* (Neutron/Archer).

selfbuilt has tested Thrunite Neutron and Quark (diverse emitter options). D25A has become the best-selling D25-series light apart from D25LC2 .. too bad that Eagletac didnt include it in the review sample shipment. The XML is bright as hell and more so on fresh 4.2V 14500, i have it too, but the XP-G2 version has better throw and nicer tint and is as bright on Eneloop AA, i am estimating 200 ANSI lumens, as mentioned.

Maybe selfbuilt gets to review a nongreenish sample of SC52 xml cw for a fair comparison!!


----------



## MichaelW

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

The xp-g2 has greater lux due to smaller apparent die size. That is going to skew your perception of output.
What is the output like with 14500s?


I am hoping that special D25LC2 'custom' will have a n-w xp-g2. 90 seconds of 2 amps, is going to mean over 500 lumens OTF for part of those 90 seconds.


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



MichaelW said:


> The xp-g2 has greater lux due to smaller apparent die size. That is going to skew your perception output.
> What is the output like with 14500s?
> 
> 
> I am hoping that special D25LC2 'custom' will have a n-w xp-g2. 90 seconds of 2 amps, is going to mean over 500 lumens OTF for part of those 90 seconds.



FWIW Tod @ illuminationgear placed an order w/ET late 2012 and is currently stocking the EagleTac D25LC2 CLICKY XP-G2 
CUSTOM EDITION (2amp / 595 Lumen) in the cool tint, and he is awaiting the NW also. As I understand it, the NW version shoud be in very soon.


----------



## dusty99

*D25C Mini R4?*

I know this is an older thread but since it is _the_ thread on the D25 series (thanks, _selfbuilt_) I'm hoping someone can help me. There evidently was a D25C mini (twist UI) in XP-G2 NW, but all I've been able to find for sale now in NW is the clicky 1xCR123 and the 2xCR123. Is there a 1xCR123 twisty with XPG2 neutral white still offered? :shrug:

(edited)


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: D25C Mini R4?*



dusty99 said:


> I know this is an older thread but since it is _the_ thread on the D25 series (thanks, _selfbuilt_) I'm hoping someone can help me. There evidently was a D25C mini (twist UI) in XP-G2 NW, but all I've been able to find for sale now in NW is the clicky 1xCR123 and the 2xCR123. Is there a 1xCR123 twisty with XPG2 neutral white still offered? :shrug:
> 
> (edited)



Good question...the only version of the D25C twisty I could find currently for sale is an XP-G2 R5 cool white. ET's site shows the D25C twisty available in XP-G S2 and XP-G2 R5 and mentions a neutral tint is available but seems to be refering to the S2? Maybe someone else can give you better info, but it looks like the neutral G2 is not yet released? FWIW ET's cool white tints are some of the best and most pleasingly consistent "premium white" tints of any mainstream producer though.


----------



## dusty99

*Re: D25C Mini R4?*

Thanks, CS. IlluminationGear's sale on the clicky version (XP-G R4) is so good I'm just going to pull the trigger. Hope I can handle the extra 6mm... . I did see an old WTS posting for the twisty NW so perhaps few were produced?


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: D25C Mini R4?*



dusty99 said:


> Thanks, CS. IlluminationGear's sale on the clicky version (XP-G R4) is so good I'm just going to pull the trigger. Hope I can handle the extra 6mm... . I did see an old WTS posting for the twisty NW so perhaps few were produced?



Wow! I didn't notice Tod was reducing the price on those...great sale price on a NW 2012 from a top-notch dealer! The D25C clicky is still a very small 1 X CR123 light. If I didn't already have a couple I'd be all over that.


----------



## Darkmoonsun

Thanks Selfbuilt your detailed and wonderful reviews have really helped me on my first flashlight purchases!


----------



## PANGES

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Just curious, does anyone actually carry the D25C around on their keychain?

edit: I'm look at the D25C vs. the ITP A3 EOS that I have on my keychain, and the D25C isn't much longer (about 5mm), but it's about twice the diameter and 2-3x the weight (without battery.) I'm sure a CR123A weighs a bit more than the 10440 I'm currently using as well. I'm debating if it would bother me to have it on my keychain or not. I don't really think it will though.

The true meaning behind my question: Someone just reinforce my lust for the light and help me pull the trigger to buy. =P


----------



## Denix

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



PANGES said:


> Just curious, does anyone actually carry the D25C around on their keychain?
> 
> edit: I'm look at the D25C vs. the ITP A3 EOS that I have on my keychain, and the D25C isn't much longer (about 5mm), but it's about twice the diameter and 2-3x the weight (without battery.) I'm sure a CR123A weighs a bit more than the 10440 I'm currently using as well. I'm debating if it would bother me to have it on my keychain or not. I don't really think it will though.
> 
> The true meaning behind my question: Someone just reinforce my lust for the light and help me pull the trigger to buy. =P



I carry mine on my keychain. It's a bit fatter than the D25a that I used to carry, but still OK. It's not a problem now as it's still jacket season here in Canada, but the temperature should rise to near freezing soon, so we'll go back to shorts and t-shirts I may find it a bit big then, when I have to cram my keys in my pant pockets.

Guy


----------



## NewFlashlightNut

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C - Clicky - XM-L U2)*

Hi, First let me say THANK YOU selfbuilt for a great thread!

I just received my *Eagletac d25c 'clicky' XM-L U2* (non-ti) in the mail today and noticed that the belt clip was black (not chrome). The color tint looks like this black bezel which is coated with titanium. Has anyone else received a d25c like this?

Also, and more important to me, I noticed that the user manual that came with the flashlight said "**D25A/D25C now support dimming when using li-ion" under D25 clicky - Quick Specifications. Does this mean that it now *supports a medium function with li-ion* batteries??

Any comments would be greatly appreciated!
*Again this is not the Ti version, I know that it does support Li-ion medium function.


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C - Clicky - XM-L U2)*

^
Sounds like you have the updated driver used in the 2013 D25C Ti. Pop a 16340 Li-ion in and see if you have medium...the older 2012 D25C had Moonlight/Low-High-High...no medium with 3.7v.


----------



## TurboTalon

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C - Clicky - XM-L U2)*

So are the 2013 models suppose to retain all of the proper mode spacing on an rcr123?


----------



## Bumble

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C - Clicky - XM-L U2)*



TurboTalon said:


> So are the 2013 models suppose to retain all of the proper mode spacing on an rcr123?



this info is in relation to the 2013 d25c ti model...

pretty much yes/no! lol ... low seems very similar on rcr/cr123... med seems a little higher on rcr as to cr123... high is way brighter on rcr as to cr123 and should be used in moderation in particular with a freshly charged rcr.


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C - Clicky - XM-L U2)*



TurboTalon said:


> So are the 2013 models suppose to retain all of the proper mode spacing on an rcr123?



ET's website shows an update to the 2013 Ti D25C only (although some seem to be getting updated standard Al versions now so the site probably needs updating) claiming a "dimable output when using Li-ion"...ET further states under battery fitment: that it still runs in direct drive @ 4.2v, (as the 2012 D25C) and that output in low and medium will higher than normal. I interpret that to mean that there is now a noticable true medium mode w/3.7v on 2013 D25C's that was previously absent (just an extra high) on early 2012 models with li-ions.


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C - Clicky - XM-L U2)*



cyclesport said:


> ET's website shows an update to the 2013 Ti D25C only (although some seem to be getting updated standard Al versions now so the site probably needs updating) claiming a "dimable output when using Li-ion"...ET further states under battery fitment: that it still runs in direct drive @ 4.2v, (as the 2012 D25C) and that output in low and medium will higher than normal. I interpret that to mean that there is now a noticable true medium mode w/3.7v on 2013 D25C's that was previously absent (just an extra high) on early 2012 models with li-ions.



I've one of these new D25C Ti.
Out of question that at Max it runs in DD, and I guess by naked eye that there are no great differences amongst various Medium and Hi modes, if there is any. I can only hope that at all modes but Max, it will run regulated though...


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C - Clicky - XM-L U2)*



daberti said:


> I've one of these new D25C Ti.
> Out of question that at Max it runs in DD, and I guess by naked eye that there are no great differences amongst various Medium and Hi modes, if there is any. I can only hope that at all modes but Max, it will run regulated though...



I have two 2012 D25C's, Ti and Al, and with Li-ions all modes are DD...even the moonlight and low are brighter than when using CR123s which indicates _there is no regulation at all with Li-ions_, and I suspect the 2013 is the same based on ET's site info, except that medium is now discernable with the new driver. One thing I have noticed on my 1st gen lights is that there is very little diff between medium and high with 3v CR123s, and why I never really minded losing medium with Li-ions since the medium mode was IMO too close to high anyway.


----------



## kreisl

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C - Clicky - XM-L U2)*



cyclesport said:


> , and I suspect the 2013 is the same based on ET's site info, except that medium is now discernable



you're talking about the D25"C", i know. 
talking of the D25"A", i posted pertinent info in the Ti thread incl. careful lumens estimates.

the table is full of info nowhere else found on the internet :huh:


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C - Clicky - XM-L U2)*

^ Yes...I had seen your data earlier, and thanks for your efforts in compiling that info for everyone's benefit.


----------



## NewFlashlightNut

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*

*UPDATE*: In regards to my *Eagletac D25C XM-L U2* w/ black belt clip (received yesterday). I got some LI-ion LC Nitecore 650mah batteries today and med/high/turbo are all virtually the same (DD). It still retains a low setting.

I was thinking of getting some *Tenergy 900mah 3.0v rcr123a* batteries (blue/silver label) and was wondering if this would allow for a medium setting so I can run the flashlight with longer run times and have less heat. Any thoughts?

There are also the *Tenergy 750mah 3.0v rcr123a LiFePO4* (green/silver label)?

**I would really like to use rcr123a batteries and still retain medium function. *Will either of theses work??*

Reference Links:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BLQQ7S/?tag=cpf0b6-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BLR1OU/?tag=cpf0b6-20


----------



## defloyd77

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*

Just ordered a D25A clicky NW XP-G2 from Illumination Gear this AM, after some e-mailing back and forth with Tod, (great guy) he said they have the D25A clicky, PN20A2 and D25C clicky in NW XP-G2, he has 1 old NW XP-G D25C clicky left that needs to be sold before he updates the site.


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C - Clicky - XM-L U2)*



cyclesport said:


> I have two 2012 D25C's, Ti and Al, and with Li-ions all modes are DD...even the moonlight and low are brighter than when using CR123s which indicates _there is no regulation at all with Li-ions_, and I suspect the 2013 is the same based on ET's site info, except that medium is now discernable with the new driver. One thing I have noticed on my 1st gen lights is that there is very little diff between medium and high with 3v CR123s, and why I never really minded losing medium with Li-ions since the medium mode was IMO too close to high anyway.



No surprise about DD. The only 1x123 XM-L flashlight that runs in regulation with RCR123 (max output included) is O-Light S10 .


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*

NewFlashlightNut: Sorry to hear you lost medium on your new D25C w/Li-ions...with the new black clip, and based on your comment "I know that it does support Li-ion medium function" I thought ET might have updated the light with the 2013 Ti light's driver as well...especially since ET is one of those companies quick to adopt new technology and emitters in all avail tints ASAP. 

I don't personally use any rechargable 3v cells in the CR123 format, but since the D25C's driver is designed to regulate with a 3v primary, and just my opinion, but I'd guess your new light should should maintain all modes with the battery chem's you've selected if they are indeed 3v.

EDIT: you need to be aware that some batteries are too long to fit in the D25C's compact space. Most primaries will fit as well as AW's and ET's own 16340s. The D25C is unforgiving of cheaper brands like Ultrafire and others (possibly Tenergy?)with larger length dimen. due to the large protection circuits they typically use and are simply too long...I would carfully check the dimensions of the new 3v RCR123's you're considering before buying.


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



cyclesport said:


> EDIT: you need to be aware that some batteries are too long to fit in the D25C's compact space. Most primaries will fit as well as AW's and ET's own 16340s. The D25C is unforgiving of cheaper brands like Ultrafire and others (possibly Tenergy?)with larger length dimen. due to the large protection circuits they typically use and are simply too long...I would carfully check the dimensions of the new 3v RCR123's you're considering before buying.



Good point. I've often wondered where these companies get the nerve though  
16340 dictates a physical size in the name (16mm diameter 34mm length). Both battery and flashlight manufacturers should respect these dimensions imho, but of course it'll be open to interpretation with button tops etc. IIRC most 16340's are around 33mm, so maybe 34mm is the absolute maximum size and includes the button top.

The cheaper brands like Ultrafire might "cheat" these limits by a tiny margin in favor of a higher capacity. Perhaps some sort standard with certification might be in order (ansi/iso/ieee).

_Edit: apparently the world isn't as simplistic as my view of it. The official dimensions for CR123a appear to be 17mm by 34.5mm, but the wikipedia entry is very fuzzy on which standards dictate what and just groups all of them together. _


----------



## markr6

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*

I thought about getting some new AA lights and these looks nice, but have to be the worst UI of all time!


----------



## WilsonCQB1911

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



markr6 said:


> I thought about getting some new AA lights and these looks nice, but have to be the worst UI of all time!



Huh. See, and I think that the UI is pretty great. Different strokes.


----------



## Verndog

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



markr6 said:


> I thought about getting some new AA lights and these looks nice, but have to be the worst UI of all time!


I like both my EagleTac lights, but the UI really is pretty awkward and scattered around. The mode spacing on the newer lights is even more ridiculous IMO...they lost me over it.


----------



## kreisl

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



cyclesport said:


> seen your data earlier, and thanks for your efforts in compiling that info for everyone's benefit.



Hi dont know if people will benefit from such info but i filled in the data for the 14500-Turbo runtimes. I did 3 tests and commented on them in the Ti thread.

Thanks for thanking


----------



## dusty99

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*

I like the UI. It's a great compromise between providing many modes but not making the user click through too many at a time to find the ones they use most often.


----------



## holylight

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



kreisl said:


> Hi dont know if people will benefit from such info but i filled in the data for the 14500-Turbo runtimes. I did 3 tests and commented on them in the Ti thread.
> 
> Thanks for thanking



Hi so what u concluded in the test. btw thanks for the test


----------



## kreisl

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



holylight said:


> so what u concluded in the test



hi, maybe you didn't find the link to the post lol?



here the full quote incl further links:


kreisl said:


> Today i did continuous runs on 14500-Turbo mode, which is the same as Hi1- or Hi2-modes!, with 3 different 14500 TF flames cells "900mAh nominal" , real capacity between 750-830mAh, and i got similar runtimes (1h1min16s, 1h4m59s, 1h3min40s) until the PCB tripped.
> 
> So if your TF flames 14500 has around ~*800mAh* capacity, then *continuous* 14500-Turbo runtime will be around ~*64min*. Runtime is shorter if the torch is operated *intermittently*, for example run in 60sec-intervals the *accumulated *runtime is max. ~*55min*.
> 
> I've updated the large table in my earlier post with the added 3 runs on 14500-Turbo.
> 
> On 14500-Turbo, the *average *current draw is *899.5mA* in intermittent runs (=830mA*3600/(55*60+22)) or *766.4mA* (=830mA*3600/(64*60+59)) in a continuous run. Consequently, in intermittent runs the light looks brighter than in a continuous run.
> 
> We also learn that the *XP-G2* emitter is driven hard on Eneloops (~*2.2A* max on a fresh Eneloop cell) and driven rather conservatively on 14500's (~*1.3A* max on a fresh 14500 cell, average ~0.9A in accumulated runs).
> 
> Enjoy the sun day!!



underlined words contain links! 

back to your original question 'what do i conclude from the tests?'

i conclude that D25A has the best runtimes on the market :thumbsup:
beats Fenix and Zebralight and Quark!!


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



kreisl said:


> 'what do i conclude from the tests?'
> 
> i conclude that D25A has the best runtimes on the market :thumbsup:
> beats Fenix and Zebralight and Quark!!



With given respect I strongly disagree.
Lets start with actual Lumens which are 0.5/8/75/122 ANSI lumens with XM-L U2 (that you did not test) for ET D25A Ti. ET official runtime figures are 150+ hours/20/2.5/1.3 . (Just following ET official site).
Now do take Selfbuilt's review about ZL SC52 using XM-L emitter as well. Eneloop for both flashlights.
SC52 performs 2hrs30' to 50% at 120 ANSI Lm which means nearly the double the runtime.
Or, if you prefer, SC52 delivers 190 ANSI Lm with nearly the same runtime as ET D25A Ti at 122 ANSI Lm. (And willing to do so it could also perform 290 ANSI Lm max output).
Do maths and you'd have evidence 
Besides that ET D25A Ti costs more and I suspect it is using PWM at lover levels...


----------



## reppans

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



daberti said:


> With given respect I strongly disagree.
> Lets start with actual Lumens which are 0.5/8/75/122 ANSI lumens with XM-L U2 (that you did not test) for ET D25A Ti. ET official runtime figures are 150+ hours/20/2.5/1.3 . (Just following ET official site).
> Now do take Selfbuilt's review about ZL SC52 using XM-L emitter as well. Eneloop for both flashlights.
> SC52 performs 2hrs30' to 50% at 120 ANSI Lm which means nearly the double the runtime.
> Or, if you prefer, SC52 delivers 190 ANSI Lm with nearly the same runtime as ET D25A Ti at 122 ANSI Lm. (And willing to do so it could also perform 290 ANSI Lm max output).
> Do maths and you'd have evidence
> Besides that ET D25A Ti costs more and I suspect it is using PWM at lover levels...



Selfbuilt's numbers are not "ANSI" official... he's using an estimate that he has calibrated according to a "best fit" line. However, his numbers are accurate on a RELATIVE basis, so if you are going to use Selfbuilt's numbers, you have to adjust both lights for an apples-to-apples comparison. 

Since he hasn't test the D25A, you should probably extrapolate based on similar lights at the beginning of this thread. Selfbuilt believes all the lower voltage versions of these D25s to be "underrated" by ~50% (high/turbo) and so perhaps the D25A should be ~ 180 lms at max.

Then, in the runtime-to-50% tests, similar to Selfbuilt's tests, my SC52 ran about ~ 83% of spec (on both max and high), while my D25A ran to spec. So perhaps the comparison should look more like:

D25A - 180 lms for 1.3 hrs
SC52 - 190 lms for 1.4 hrs (1.7 x 83%)

I ran them side-by-side - D25AXML 75lms/2.5hrs vs SC52 108lms/3 hrs, since they both measure the same output by my light meter - and I got ~2.5 hrs for both (triangulates with Selfbuilt's time measurements and lumen scale difference). I also have the Quark AA-XML and have run it side-by-side with both lights on random tests using a light meter and stopwatch. I personally find all three lights to be EQUALLY EFFICIENT, although the specs on SC52 to be overly exaggerated (I can't poke any holes in 47s/ETs numbers).... well, at least according to my clock and "best-fit" lumen scale.

In another efficiency example, the SC52 claims have to a 3 week runtime on a 0.3 lm moonlight, while the QAAX and D25A (2012) claim ~ 1 week on what I measure both to be ~ 0.3 lumens. However, I found the SC52's output to be about 1/3 of spec, or 0.10 lm, explaining the 3x runtime difference, and this has been confirmed by Selfbuilt.

Some consider these to be minor marketing exaggerations, but in terms of lumen-hrs efficiency, I find 75-300% differences to be a bit much. JMHO... YMMV.


----------



## kreisl

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



daberti said:


> (that you did not test) for ET D25A Ti. ET official runtime figures are 150+ hours/20/2.5/1.3 . (Just following ET official site).



People do not seem to follow the links implemented in the text of my posts. Okay then, here the full quote so that you do not have to click on any links :nana:

daberti, now read, thanks:



kreisl said:


> D25*A* Ti is the way to go
> i spent much time on runtime tests and found them highly enjoyable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used Eneloop AA (measured 2000mAh) and Trustfire Protected flames 14500 (measured 750..830mAh, depending on the cell sample) for the test runs. Yeah i know, such an extensive table with data and info without any further explanations or explicative details s*cks, so I am posting review details on another forum ..



If anyone has questions regarding the table, shoot me. :devil:
So yes, as reppans stated as owner of both lights, Zebralight and Eagletac may have exactly the same efficiency at the end of the day.


----------



## grev

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*

I have just used 1.5v alkalines (mainly, but I have used eneloops) in my D25A and it seems to be brighter than my Klarus 150lm XT1A...?

I have both the D25C ti and D25A ti, both are great!


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



kreisl said:


> People do not seem to follow the links implemented in the text of my posts. Okay then, here the full quote so that you do not have to click on any links :nana:
> 
> daberti, now read, thanks:
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone has questions regarding the table, shoot me. :devil:
> So yes, as reppans stated as owner of both lights, Zebralight and Eagletac may have exactly the same efficiency at the end of the day.



Daberti reads, yet I'd like to have someone sending his own D25A (Ti or not) to Selfbuilt for testing.
This would be the ultimate proof


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



daberti said:


> Daberti reads, yet I'd like to have someone sending his own D25A (Ti or not) to Selfbuilt for testing.
> This would be the ultimate proof



Did anyone ever make an "official" request to EagleTac for this? I'd have no problem lending mine for reviewing, but the posting alone would be more than buying them.


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



TweakMDS said:


> Did anyone ever make an "official" request to EagleTac for this? I'd have no problem lending mine for reviewing, but the posting alone would be more than buying them.



I'm in the same cup of tea 
Maybe some of the USA dealers would chime in .....


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*

I appreciate the offers, but I'm not into testing loaned samples - too many variables and risks to consider. And it's unlikely that Eagletac would send me a D25A for review, after all this time (i.e., all makers care the most about reviews at the time of series launch). 

As always, it is important to keep in mind how production versions can change over time (especially as new emitters come out, but sometimes just for circuit upgrades). All my reviews are really just one point in time - it is unfortunately hard to know how newer versions compare, unless tested under exactly the same conditions. :shrug:

In any case, I do have some new Eagletac series lights lined up for review. Should be getting to them soon ....


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



selfbuilt said:


> In any case, I do have some new Eagletac series lights lined up for review. Should be getting to them soon ....



Ah ha. Ima guess perhaps the TX25C2 or SX25A6 might be one. Although unlikely, it would be nice if one was the mysterious GX25A3. Can't wait.


----------



## TweakMDS

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*

Understood on the loaners, and I agree. However, Eagletac did refresh the D25A Clicky Ti in XM-L and XP-G2 quite recently, and even though they are "limited edition", they should have still sent you a a model I think.

Eitherway, they're very nice lights and I EDC the XP-G2 version together with the SC52.


----------



## defloyd77

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*

Just got my neutral XP-G2 D25A Clicky from Illumination Gear today and wow, just wow. Beautiful beam profile and tint, uniform throughout, insanely bright for just 1 NiMH AA, kicks the crap out of my SC51W, a supposed 164 lumens. Tint is warmer than my other neutrals, not sure of their bins except for my 5A Quark and it's a bit warmerr. Wish I had a working camera...... 
Only thing I don't like is having pocket eating knurling under the clip.


----------



## reppans

defloyd77 said:


> Just got my neutral XP-G2 D25A Clicky from Illumination Gear today and wow, just wow. Beautiful beam profile and tint, uniform throughout, insanely bright for just 1 NiMH AA, kicks the crap out of my SC51W, a supposed 164 lumens.



Nice... 

I notice that Illumination Gear lists the NW as an XP-G2 R4 but the ET D25A spec page lists NW only as XP-G R4 and XM-L2 T6. Wonder if IG is a typo? BTW, the SC51w should be 172 lms ;-).


----------



## defloyd77

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



reppans said:


> Nice...
> 
> I notice that Illumination Gear lists the NW as an XP-G2 R4 but the ET D25A spec page lists NW only as XP-G R4 and XM-L2 T6. Wonder if IG is a typo? BTW, the SC51w should be 172 lms ;-).



It's an XP-G2 for sure, I verified it with IG, they said they just got 3 ET models in using a neutral XP-G2 and also linked me to pictures showing the difference between Gen 1&2, it's very easy to see the difference. They did however say that they are assuming it's an R4 bin. Also, the SC51FW, the frosted neutral is 164 lumens. Forgot the F.


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Any doughnut hole issues with the XP-G2's in the CR123 models.


----------



## Tyler___Durden

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Hubby & I have each got an *D25LC2 XP-G2*.
No do-nut holes in the light patterns. 
JUST PERFECT
We both love this kit.
We're now both running them with a 18650 cell, 
though hubby was initially using rcr-123's.
No difference in brightness nor beam pattern. Just duration.


----------



## Glock 22

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Tyler___Durden said:


> Hubby & I have each got an *D25LC2 XP-G2*.
> No do-nut holes in the light patterns.
> JUST PERFECT
> We both love this kit.
> We're now both running them with a 18650 cell,
> though hubby was initially using rcr-123's.
> No difference in brightness nor beam pattern. Just duration.




Thanks


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



selfbuilt said:


> In any case, I do have some new Eagletac series lights lined up for review.



Today i learned that ET updated the _entire _catalog from XM-L U2 to XM-L2 U2. Naturally this includes all popular lights such as D25A, D25LC2, Clicky Ti, T20C2, G25C2, one must look only at the Technical Specifications pages. The specs page for the TX25C2 XM-L2 U2 even claims frikkin *965 ANSI ET lumens* on 1x18650 which would be world record and beat Nitecore EC25 (860 ANSI NC lumens) and Zebralight SC600 MkII (900 ANSI ZL lumens).

Hopefully you got models with ET XM-L2 U2's to review, thanks for your hard work! :twothumbs


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



shelm said:


> Today i learned that ET updated the _entire _catalog from XM-L U2 to XM-L2 U2. ... Hopefully you got models with ET XM-L2 U2's to review, thanks for your hard work! :twothumbs


Thanks, and yes, all the new ET lights I've received are XM-L2 emitters. And yes, the TX25C2 is included. 

Note that as with the XP-G2, the new output bining code structure is based on the more representational luminus flux @85C (i.e. not @25C any more). The practical implications of this is that a XM-L2 U2 is actually _two full bin steps up_ from a XM-L U2. Or put another way, the XM-L2 T5 would be equivalent to the XM-L U2, etc.

The jump in ET's posted ANSI FL-1 lumens for the various lights on XM-L2 U2 (i.e., ~13-14% brighter) is quite believable to me. Cree unfortunately markets the new XP-G2/XM-L2s as delivering "up to 20% more lumens", but that is referring to the extreme limits of the bins. Two bin steps up is _on average_ ~13-14% brighter, but it could be as low as 7-8% or as high as ~20%, depending where in their respective bins individual samples lie.

In any case, I've only started my testing, so it will take me some time to go through everything ... 

EDIT: For those wanting to know more, the new spec sheet for the Cree XM-L2 is available here.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



selfbuilt said:


> I've only started my testing, so it will take me some time to go through everything ...



Sounds like a sweet flashlight party! :twothumbs
Terrific news, XM-L2's, TX25C2, this will become an important reference for future comparisons of new 1x18650 XM-L lights imho.

Thanks again for all, looking forward!!
YMMD cheers!


----------



## WilsonCQB1911

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*

How can I tell the difference between a 2012 and 2013 D25A Ti?


----------



## Dubois

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*

The 2103 will have a brass thread between head and body.


----------



## SCEMan

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



WilsonCQB1911 said:


> How can I tell the difference between a 2012 and 2013 D25A Ti?



2012 on top, 2013 on bottom


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*

Yes. Good news, yet if ET won't implement a dropdown feature, FULL regulation for Li-Ion cells and low voltage cutoff for LiIon it would not be my ticket. Not to mention that a 1x123 torch that jumps from just under 10Lm to over 100Lm is far from showing a clever output spacing.


----------



## bhonder

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



selfbuilt said:


> Thanks, and yes, all the new ET lights I've received are XM-L2 emitters. And yes, the TX25C2 is included.
> 
> Note that as with the XP-G2, the new output bining code structure is based on the more representational luminus flux @85C (i.e. not @25C any more). The practical implications of this is that a XM-L2 U2 is actually _two full bin steps up_ from a XM-L U2. Or put another way, the XM-L2 T5 would be equivalent to the XM-L U2, etc.
> 
> The jump in ET's posted ANSI FL-1 lumens for the various lights on XM-L2 U2 (i.e., ~13-14% brighter) is quite believable to me. Cree unfortunately markets the new XP-G2/XM-L2s as delivering "up to 20% more lumens", but that is referring to the extreme limits of the bins. Two bin steps up is _on average_ ~13-14% brighter, but it could be as low as 7-8% or as high as ~20%, depending where in their respective bins individual samples lie.
> 
> In any case, I've only started my testing, so it will take me some time to go through everything ...
> 
> EDIT: For those wanting to know more, the new spec sheet for the Cree XM-L2 is available here.



Do you know when they will be on the market? I have to buy one more flashlight which, I guess, will be a D25A2 and I can wait a couple of months more if it's worth.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C XM-L U2)*



bhonder said:


> Do you know when they will be on the market? I have to buy one more flashlight which, I guess, will be a D25A2 and I can wait a couple of months more if it's worth.


Sorry, no idea - you'd have to check with the dealer you were planning to purchase it from.


----------



## blackFFM

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Can't wait to get a d25c clicky with XM-L2 T6 in neutral white. Want to test it with an IMR 16340.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



blackFFM said:


> with XM-L2 T6 in neutral white



To me it seems like someone redacted all ET webpages by replacing all instances of "XM-L" by "XM-L2" without knowing what he/she was doing, following orders, 24 Jack Bauer 
I am wondering if they really mean it, neutral white XM-L2's and neutral white XP-G2's!


----------



## WilsonCQB1911

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

My D25A Ti Cool White does not seem to have the moonlight mode (three twists from loose while on). Can anyone confirm? Tried with 14500 and NiMH with same results. So far, only my D25C Ti has it. The D25C2 does not, which is confirmed.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

afaik the D25A 2012 Ti clicky had moonlight with Eneloops and i can confirm that the D25A 2013 Ti clicky does not. i think it was already mentioned and measured in the Clicky Ti thread!!

is yours the 2013 version?


----------



## WilsonCQB1911

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks. Yes, mine is the 2013 version.


----------



## jhc37013

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Good news and bad news.

The bad news is I lost my only beloved D25LC2 with a brand new green label 3400mah Eagletac inside it, I loved that light and carried it every day I have no idea how I lost it except that clip had a tendency to hang on the seat belt of my wife's car and it must have fallen out, usually I feel it when it snags but not this time.

The good news is it seems I lost it at a good time when this XM-L2 is being put in them if I read right, just got to find out who has them or when a dealer will have them. Ordinarily I'd order another right away but I'm going to wait and see how this L2 plays out, would have sucked if I'd lost it a couple weeks ago right before this news.


----------



## shelm

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



jhc37013 said:


> I'm going to wait and see how this L2 plays out, would



Eagletac informs that the XM-L2 tint is 0D or 1A, i.e. either of the two arbitrarily. That's how i understood the info


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



shelm said:


> Eagletac informs that the XM-L2 tint is 0D or 1A, i.e. either of the two arbitrarily. That's how i understood the info


I don't like releasing too much while still in testing, but OD/1A is certainly believable for the cool white XM-L2 lights Eagletac has sent me. I think most people would consider 1A as part of "premium bin" cool white. Point is to expect the tint will be on the cooler side of cool white, if anything ... my samples are certainly quite reasonable.

BTW, for those looking for a good ANSI white chromaticity bin chart, see the flashlight wiki site.


----------



## jhc37013

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> I don't like releasing too much while still in testing, but OD/1A is certainly believable for the cool white XM-L2 lights Eagletac has sent me. I think most people would consider 1A as part of "premium bin" cool white. Point is to expect the tint will be on the cooler side of cool white, if anything ... my samples are certainly quite reasonable.
> 
> BTW, for those looking for a good ANSI white chromaticity bin chart, see the flashlight wiki site.



As long as there is no hint of blue or green I'll be happy, pure white is what I like and all the XM-L D25's I've seen in person was nice and white, I'm curious to see how the XM-L2 compares to that.


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

0D/1A ? Should it be so, true color rendition would be quite quite weird I guess...


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



daberti said:


> 0D/1A ? Should it be so, true color rendition would be quite quite weird I guess...


Well, you can always get the XM-L2 T6 Neutral whites then.  I'll be reviewing a couple of those too ... hard to guestimate a tint, but certainly consistent with the earlier Eagletac XM-L Neutrals. No hint of green or anything like that on any of my samples.


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> Well, you can always get the XM-L2 T6 Neutral whites then.  I'll be reviewing a couple of those too ... hard to guestimate a tint, but certainly consistent with the earlier Eagletac XM-L Neutrals. No hint of green or anything like that on any of my samples.



This could be a workaround, not a solution 
XM-L2 T6 Neutral White would be just a hair above XM-L U2 Cool White as far as Lumens are concerned.
But this is just a part of the whole picture: 2013 D25A Ti does NOT have moonlight level. D25LC2 has NOT memory mode and all of the group -exception made for D25A Ti if I got it right- have not lets say a 25Lm and 50Lm level before jumping into the 100+ Lm niche.
D25LC2 XM-L2 U2 on a 1xAW18650 following your review should probably perform 660*1,15 ANSI-FL1 lumens=>759Lm, which is barely 20 ANSI-FL1 Lm more than an already existing 1x18650 form factor flashlight tested by you. I own two samples of the latest that look like being in the 5300-5600K range, whilst my D25C Ti 2013 stands in the 6500K range and so I should expect roughly the same for the old D25C2.
5600K and 6500K are a lot of difference whilst in foggy/misty/snowy environment, even during an EDC usage (walking dog, etc)


----------



## Labrador72

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Well brightness is not only about the XML or XML2, it's also about how hard the emitter is driven. Considering the compact size, and that XML U2 version was already 650 lumen I'm not sure they have much margin to make the XML2 U2 version that much brighter without running into heat-sink problems unless they are changing more than the emitter and driver: I guess will find out a lot more as soon as selfbuilt is done with his latest review.


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Labrador72 said:


> Well brightness is not only about the XML or XML2, it's also about how hard the emitter is driven. Considering the compact size, and that XML U2 version was already 650 lumen I'm not sure they have much margin to make the XML2 U2 version that much brighter without running into heat-sink problems unless they are changing more than the emitter and driver: I guess will find out a lot more as soon as selfbuilt is done with his latest review.



Ditto.
Mine was just an optimistic guess


----------



## PANGES

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I contacted Going Gear, and they said the XM-L2 D25C should arrive in a week or so.


----------



## blackFFM

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



PANGES said:


> I contacted Going Gear, and they said the XM-L2 D25C should arrive in a week or so.




It's more than 2 weeks now. Haven't seen them at GG yet.


----------



## Nicola

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I've seen the D25LC2 XM-L2 on the website of the italian official dealer... and I promptly ordered it!


----------



## Nicola

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

D25LC2 just arrived, very nice but... what about the led? 

On the box there is written "XM-L U2", but there is also a sticker stating "Upgrade for free - CREE XM-L2 U2 - 15% brighter" ... 

I don't understand ...:thinking: ...just old package with new product inside (and a poorly written sticker) ... or last marketed old product with an upgrade bonus?

I emailed dealer & ET immediately ... let's wait for the answer...


In the meanwhile, I have a question (sorry if it's a newbie one): When the head is loosen, is the flashlight still IPX8 waterproof?


----------



## PANGES

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



blackFFM said:


> It's more than 2 weeks now. Haven't seen them at GG yet.



Still don't see it either. =/


----------



## defloyd77

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Nicola said:


> D25LC2 just arrived, very nice but... what about the led?
> 
> On the box there is written "XM-L U2", but there is also a sticker stating "Upgrade for free - CREE XM-L2 U2 - 15% brighter" ...
> 
> I don't understand ...:thinking: ...just old package with new product inside (and a poorly written sticker) ... or last marketed old product with an upgrade bonus?
> 
> I emailed dealer & ET immediately ... let's wait for the answer...
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile, I have a question (sorry if it's a newbie one): When the head is loosen, is the flashlight still IPX8 waterproof?



That's how my XP-G2 D25A came, telling the difference between gen 1 and 2 is easy, the gen 1 is green around the LED die, gen 2 is silver.


----------



## mckeand13

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Quite common for manufacturers of any product to use stickers to "update" it to the newer product that's inside. Why scrap the packaging, which has been produced in large quantities, when a sticker can take care of the change.

The waterproof rating remains unless you unscrew the head far enough to back it off the o-ring. That takes quite a bit more than just backing it off for other modes though.



Nicola said:


> D25LC2 just arrived, very nice but... what about the led?
> 
> On the box there is written "XM-L U2", but there is also a sticker stating "Upgrade for free - CREE XM-L2 U2 - 15% brighter" ...
> 
> I don't understand ...:thinking: ...just old package with new product inside (and a poorly written sticker) ... or last marketed old product with an upgrade bonus?
> 
> I emailed dealer & ET immediately ... let's wait for the answer...
> 
> 
> In the meanwhile, I have a question (sorry if it's a newbie one): When the head is loosen, is the flashlight still IPX8 waterproof?


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Nicola said:


> On the box there is written "XM-L U2", but there is also a sticker stating "Upgrade for free - CREE XM-L2 U2 - 15% brighter" ...
> In the meanwhile, I have a question (sorry if it's a newbie one): When the head is loosen, is the flashlight still IPX8 waterproof?


As mckeand13 pointed out above, use of stickers is common to update existing packaging - and the waterproofness is maintained by the o-ring (so no problem with head loosened for standard modes).

You can verify a XM-L2 with good eyes (or a magnifying glass if you are past your early 40s  ... the new XM-L2 does not have visible bond wires across the die. Compare the close-up emitter pics here to some of my recent XM-L2 reviews (like the TX25C2) to see the difference.


----------



## Nicola

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I just took off my strong myopia glasses and used my natural very near focus as a huge magnifying glass  to check my led as per your suggestions.

It's a new one (XM-L2), I can clearly see the silver and the 2 wires inside the bin (against the 3 wires of the old one) http://flashlightwiki.com/Cree#XM-L .

Thanks guys! Help appreciated.


----------



## jhc37013

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I got a XM-L2 D25LC2 today and I like the upgrade, as always from ET the tint is premium a very nice white with no color. This little light is so darn bright it never gets old, it is a WOW light and my favorite EDC light since the introduction of the original D25LC2.


----------



## blackFFM

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



jhc37013 said:


> I got a XM-L2 D25LC2 today




Where did you get it from?


----------



## bhonder

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I wrote to nkon.nl and the guy who runs the shop wrote me that he ordered them. They will have those flashlight in a couple of weeks.

Question: I already own a d25a neutral white and I would like to buy a d25a2. I like the tint: is cool white much more blueish or is somehow... white?

Better: if someone has both, could it post the photos? Eagletac shows some vegetation shots but I would like to see it on a white wall.


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



bhonder said:


> I wrote to nkon.nl and the guy who runs the shop wrote me that he ordered them. They will have those flashlight in a couple of weeks.
> 
> Question: I already own a d25a neutral white and I would like to buy a d25a2. I like the tint: is cool white much more blueish or is somehow... white?
> 
> Better: if someone has both, could it post the photos? Eagletac shows some vegetation shots but I would like to see it on a white wall.



The Eagletac D25 Cool White is a premium white.
The Eagletac D25 Neutral White is a bit yellowish, really just a tad warm.
I have not heard of anyone who didn't like the Cool White tint.

So far, Amazon and Light Junction have the new ET XML2 lights in stock.


----------



## jhc37013

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



blackFFM said:


> Where did you get it from?



LightJunction


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I DO NOT like their premium white XM-L, which happen to be on the >6300K, and given that above has been stated that they will use even cooler i.e. > 6500K XM-L2 I think that they definitely won't fit my bill 



GordoJones88 said:


> The Eagletac D25 Cool White is a premium white.
> I have not heard of anyone who didn't like the Cool White tint.


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Having just bought one of the d25c ti"s, I am wondering if a 3.0 volt RCR would work in this light and give me all my levels of light. Has anyone tried this?
I like the light but I hate using primary 123's. I could trade the high 770 lumens for a RCR and all levels.


----------



## daberti

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



loquutis79 said:


> Having just bought one of the d25c ti"s, I am wondering if a 3.0 volt RCR would work in this light and give me all my levels of light. Has anyone tried this?
> I like the light but I hate using primary 123's. I could trade the high 770 lumens for a RCR and all levels.



Yes it will. I've a 2013Ti as well and with 3v LiFePo4 you have all levels.
Stay warned that it will be up to you to monitor battery juice, as these cells are NOT protected.


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



daberti said:


> I DO NOT like their premium white XM-L, which happen to be on the >6300K, and given that above has been stated that they will use even cooler i.e. > 6500K XM-L2 I think that they definitely won't fit my bill



To be fair, when you have been a member of CPF for 9 years and list exact temperatures, you may have very specific requirements for the tint of a light. Versus a new member with 4 posts who is asking a general question about "is cool white much more blueish or is somehow... white?" It seems to me the general consensus on CPF is that Eagletac's Cool White emitters are some of the whitest on the market, with nary even a hint of blue or green to them. However the Eagletac Neutral White emitters are a bit on the yellowish side, and not actually a neutral pure whitish white. I think it's easy for new members to misunderstand the term "Neutral" white does not appear to imply "Whitish" white.


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Yes but am not looking at lifePo4. I am looking at a 3.0 volt li-ion made by Tenergy. I don't know if it is simply a regulated 3.7 volt or what, but I would like to know if anyone has tried these. I'm not going down the "unprotected" road.


----------



## mckeand13

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Just wondering if anybody has swapped a Nichia 219 into a D25A clicky yet?


----------



## texasPI

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks for the exhaustive review. It partly led to me ordering a D25A clicky XM-L and two D25A2 clickies, one XM-L and one XP-G. They're my first purchases as a CFP newbie!  I'm already looking at other lights even though I haven't received these yet! What have you guys done to me?!


----------



## markr6

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Crap! I almost decided on a D25A neutral until I read about the UI in another forum. Unlike something like an Olight i2 where you can keep going thru all the modes without hitting the strobes, the D25A must be turned off for about 2 seconds to reset. Horrible UI and deal-breaker for me!! So close though


----------



## Verndog

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



texasPI said:


> Thanks for the exhaustive review. It partly led to me ordering a D25A clicky XM-L and two D25A2 clickies, one XM-L and one XP-G. They're my first purchases as a CFP newbie!  I'm already looking at other lights even though I haven't received these yet! What have you guys done to me?!



You were just a little boy whistling in the dark to keep his spirits up prior to joining CPF. Now you are free... and out of the dark and into the light my sun!


----------



## Verndog

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



markr6 said:


> Crap! I almost decided on a D25A neutral until I read about the UI in another forum. Unlike something like an Olight i2 where you can keep going thru all the modes without hitting the strobes, the D25A must be turned off for about 2 seconds to reset. Horrible UI and deal-breaker for me!! So close though



I thought the same thing just after the purchase. WRONG!! And it doesn't even say this this in the manual...BUT, 1/2 press and 1-2 sec hold while light is running resets the mode to low and avoids the dreaded strobe mode (on clicky model)


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



markr6 said:


> Crap! I almost decided on a D25A neutral until I read about the UI in another forum. Unlike something like an Olight i2 where you can keep going thru all the modes without hitting the strobes, the D25A must be turned off for about 2 seconds to reset. Horrible UI and deal-breaker for me!! So close though



If you are going to be frantically cycling through modes that fast and that often, you mind as will put the light in strobe mode anyway . . .


----------



## Verndog

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



GordoJones88 said:


> If you are going to be frantically cycling through modes that fast and that often, you mind as will put the light in strobe mode anyway . . .



Doesn't have to be anything "frantic" about it. If you want to come back to a certain mode more then once...you get strobe (over the entire time it's on).. I agree it's a ridiculous UI also. Like somebody in a panic has time to stand there and go through all modes 2x to ward off an attack?? My guess is this UI has 1000 people stumble into strobe for every 1 time it's actually wanted (this is why most UI's actually hide it).


----------



## reppans

Verndog said:


> I thought the same thing just after the purchase. WRONG!! And it doesn't even say this this in the manual...BUT, 1/2 press and 1-2 sec hold while light is running resets the mode to low and avoids the dreaded strobe mode (on clicky model)



Mine resets in <1 second - just give it a long press and you're back to low - one of the best "features" I've seen in a multi-mode and has me scratching my head why any light needs more than a second reset time. Interestingly, I find it a "better opposite" of a Zebra UI which will punish if you get the timing to low wrong, and also makes you wait to ramp up a mode or two. The ZL does get you to high faster, but on these small single cell lights, I suspect most use it more sparingly.


----------



## Lite_me

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Verndog said:


> Doesn't have to be anything "frantic" about it. If you want to come back to a certain mode more then once...*you get strobe (over the entire time it's on)*.. I agree it's a ridiculous UI also. Like somebody in a panic has time to stand there and go through all modes 2x to ward off an attack?? *My guess is this UI has 1000 people stumble into strobe for every 1 time it's actually wanted (this is why most UI's actually hide it)*.


I'm not sure what you actually mean here but, should you 'accidentally' wander into strobe, all that is needed is a half sec press of the switch and you're back to square one again with 2 cycles available through the normal output modes before you get to strobe again. It's rare that I need to cycle more than twice through the different output modes to do the job at hand. If I do, that's my fault. If I get strobe, short half press and start again. I don't find it a problem and actually like the UI.


----------



## Verndog

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Lite_me said:


> I'm not sure what you actually mean here but, should you 'accidentally' wander into strobe, all that is needed is a half sec press of the switch and you're back to square one again with 2 cycles available through the normal output modes before you get to strobe again. It's rare that I need to cycle more than twice through the different output modes to do the job at hand. If I do, that's my fault. If I get strobe, short half press and start again. I don't find it a problem and actually like the UI.



There are those of us that do not care for strobe and consider it obnoxious and irritating, and in this case putting at the end of 2 cycles is totally useless for those FEW actually needing it IMO. They already have it in "tactical mode" with a twist, why waste the long press reset and extra mode at all? Other then that poorly placed mode, I'm OK with the UI really.


----------



## markr6

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks for all the replies about the UI everyone, especially Verndog about the *1/2 press for 1-2 seconds*. That REALLY helps the UI and may get the light back on my list to try.

Personally, I think using the strobe to fend off an attacker is a bunch of bullshit...really. Come on admit it, it's just something dreamed up here on CPF to try and justify more features the manufacturer probably intended for other uses (signaling, perhaps). I can assure you, if I'm going to attack someone to steal something or do them harm, jumping out from behind a bush and hitting them with a baseball bat would take me about 0.6 seconds. How fast can you realize I'm doing that and pull out the light, then cycle to the strobe? If a person is worried to death about getting raped, maybe they'll have the light in their hand and thumb on the switch...and it will scare someone away if their extremely lucky. More realistically, the crazed attacker will swat that $50 light onto the ground like a piece of trash. Let's get real here.


----------



## bhonder

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



markr6 said:


> Crap! I almost decided on a D25A neutral until I read about the UI in another forum. Unlike something like an Olight i2 where you can keep going thru all the modes without hitting the strobes, the D25A must be turned off for about 2 seconds to reset. Horrible UI and deal-breaker for me!! So close though



My original question was about "cool white" because I have to buy another flashlight and I was thinking to try cool white too.

I have a D25A with neutral white and I'm quite satisfied with that tint: it's warm like the end of a summer afternoon. You don't have to switch of the lamp for 2 seconds: you just have to tap it a little longer (without clicking it) and you reset the cycle.

Don't worry: I'm very happy with my neutral white, plus, D25A is very comfortable to carry with you. I use it for:

Evening/early morning running;
Evening walkarounds;
Searching things in the vault;
Looking in the country house back yard;
Having dinner outside in the country house without calling all the sourrounding mosquitos;
Wandering in the apartment without waking up my wife.

If I have to give my opinion, I get the best during running because the adjustable lanyard, the weight of the torch and the wide flood of light.


----------



## markr6

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks bhonder. I would have purchased one of these from lightjunction last week with the 15% off sale, but decided to wait for the XM-L2 version. Worth losing the sale price for a nearly unnoticeable increase in lumens? No, but it's just a peace of mind thing for me. Hopefully it comes out soon.


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



markr6 said:


> Thanks bhonder. I would have purchased one of these from lightjunction last week with the 15% off sale, but decided to wait for the XM-L2 version. Worth losing the sale price for a nearly unnoticeable increase in lumens? No, but it's just a peace of mind thing for me. Hopefully it comes out soon.



You missed 15% off for an increase of 12% brightness. I think that is acceptable. I also think the XML2U2 is worth waiting for.


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I just bought the XM-L U2 version when I saw the XM-L2 come out. But the one in the mail now is the XP-G2 in another D25C ti. Gotta love throw!


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



loquutis79 said:


> I just bought the XM-L U2 version when I saw the XM-L2 come out. But the one in the mail now is the XP-G2 in another D25C ti. Gotta love throw!



IlluminationGear is selling the XPG2 emitter with the XML2 circuit driver for more output and even more throw. Make sure you get that one too!


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Curse you!! Why did you tell me that. I have the D25LC2 XP-G2 also with the XM-L driver. I love it. I did not know ( but should have) that they had done this again. I hoped I was done buying lights.
Curse you all!!!


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I just had a look, didn't see it listed. Do you have to request it?


----------



## Jdunn709

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I have a question regarding the half press for a second to resent the UI:

If the light is cycled through all the outputs and then is on medium and the clicky is half pressed for a moment does the light revert to low or does it remain on medium but require two additional cycles through the outputs to access the strobe modes?

Thanks!
Jeremy


----------



## Tyler___Durden

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



markr6 said:


> *Personally, I think using the strobe to fend off an attacker is a bunch of bullshit*...really. Come on admit it, it's just something dreamed up here on CPF to try and justify more features the manufacturer probably intended for other uses (signaling, perhaps). I can assure you, if I'm going to attack someone to steal something or do them harm, jumping out from behind a bush and hitting them with a baseball bat would take me about 0.6 seconds. How fast can you realize I'm doing that and pull out the light, then cycle to the strobe? If a person is worried to death about getting raped, maybe they'll have the light in their hand and thumb on the switch...and it will scare someone away if their extremely lucky. More realistically, the crazed attacker will swat that $50 light onto the ground like a piece of trash. Let's get real here.


* http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?356772-Police-Study-of-tactical-use-of-Strobe*
These cops reckon it works.
Other uses:
To signal where you are in a crowd or a car park
To point to an area on the ground where you want a person to look or go. (Useful if you are talking to them on a mobile and want them to park in a specific residents parking space)
To scare off an aggressive dog.
Strobes rock!


----------



## jhc37013

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Tyler___Durden said:


> * http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?356772-Police-Study-of-tactical-use-of-Strobe*
> These cops reckon it works.
> Other uses:
> To signal where you are in a crowd or a car park
> To point to an area on the ground where you want a person to look or go. (Useful if you are talking to them on a mobile and want them to park in a specific residents parking space)
> To scare off an aggressive dog.
> Strobes rock!



All those things you mention can be done by just turning the light off and on or a signal mode but not the annoying strobe, I do like a signal or beacon mode I've used that several times in fairly serious situations but the strobe is a waist of a mode or something that can mess up a otherwise good UI. If it's a dog just turn it to max or turbo that has worked for me the few times that I've ever done it.

Maybe strobe is good for law enforcement in a offensive situation but I've never found a use for it and it has become completely dumb especially in a little EDC light, it has become a complete gimmick much like off the emitter and highly over rated lumen claims use to be.


----------



## reppans

Jdunn709 said:


> I have a question regarding the half press for a second to resent the UI:
> 
> If the light is cycled through all the outputs and then is on medium and the clicky is half pressed for a moment does the light revert to low or does it remain on medium but require two additional cycles through the outputs to access the strobe modes?
> 
> Thanks!
> Jeremy



A half press >0.5 sec is the equivalent of turning the light off so the light will revert back to low (assuming no memory function) and require 2 cycles to reach the blinkies. I don't have the memory function (D25A) but I assume if you did, it should revert back to the mode you were on, and then again, require 2 cycles to reach the blinkies.


----------



## Dlight

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thank you!


----------



## Dlight

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Great review!! Could you tell me which D25C models have the momentary on feature? Do they offer it in the new XM-L U2??


----------



## Dlight

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

With the D25C, if you turn the flashlight on, for just a couple seconds, then click it off, and then on again a few seconds later (and it is in Group 1, with head tight) will it stay on same mode, or switch between turbo and strobe, each time it is turned off and on for short periods?


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Dlight said:


> Great review!! Could you tell me which D25C models have the momentary on feature? Do they offer it in the new XM-L U2??


Sorry, I'm not aware of a momentary on version ... the D25C comes with a reverse clicky (i.e., need to click and release to activate).



Dlight said:


> With the D25C, if you turn the flashlight on, for just a couple seconds, then click it off, and then on again a few seconds later (and it is in Group 1, with head tight) will it stay on same mode, or switch between turbo and strobe, each time it is turned off and on for short periods?


It depends on your timing. If you turn off-on within one second, it will advance to the next mode (since that is what it expects you are trying to do). If you give it ~2 secs before turning on, it reverts to the last memorized level (if you have memory on), or the first level (if you have memory off).


----------



## Dlight

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Just ordered the D25C XM-L2 U2. Should get it in like a week. Has anyone tried these with the EagleTac brand 16340/RCR123A or the nitecores? The guy I ordered from said he has only tried the eagletac brand li-ions, but that they did not loose any mode functions with them! Anyone have experience with this light and the nitecore batteries?


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Dlight said:


> Just ordered the D25C XM-L2 U2. Should get it in like a week. Has anyone tried these with the EagleTac brand 16340/RCR123A or the nitecores? The guy I ordered from said he has only tried the eagletac brand li-ions, but that they did not loose any mode functions with them! Anyone have experience with this light and the nitecore batteries?



Eagletac and Nitecore 16340 cells will be just fine. No worries.


----------



## markr6

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

FYI - I'm waiting on the D25A XM-L2 T6 neutral. I'm told it should be available in about a week.


----------



## Rick_R

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Hello to all. I've been lurking for awhile (a friend pointed me to this forum).
I would get the D25LC2 in a min.if it had a fwd. clicky. The question I have is, can the ET D25LC2 accept one of their fwd. clicky end-caps? And if so, how well (or not so well) goes it function?
The D25A Clicky would be included into the mix also.

Thankx in advance,
Rick


----------



## tallyram

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Great review and thanks for all you do! Just picked up the D25LC2 XP-G2 2 amp version and couldn't be happier! Light packs a nice punch for being so small.


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



tallyram said:


> Just picked up the D25LC2 XP-G2 2 amp version and couldn't be happier!
> Light packs a nice punch for being so small.





loquutis79 said:


> I have the D25LC2 XP-G2 also with the XM-L driver. I love it.



I don't suppose either of you have a light meter to get an exact [email protected] reading?
If not, can you please buy a light meter, measure it, and let me know. 
Thanks.


----------



## tallyram

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Sorry! No plans for a light meter. When I was researching this specific light I came across some numbers:

517 lumens OTF
11,500 cd

No info on how the numbers where measured.


----------



## reppans

Rick_R said:


> Hello to all. I've been lurking for awhile (a friend pointed me to this forum).
> I would get the D25LC2 in a min.if it had a fwd. clicky. The question I have is, can the ET D25LC2 accept one of their fwd. clicky end-caps? And if so, how well (or not so well) goes it function?
> The D25A Clicky would be included into the mix also.
> 
> Thankx in advance,
> Rick



Foward clickies do not work well with multimode lights that have only one input - the momentary feature will be a mode changer rather than momentarily flashing a single mode. Multimodes need a second input like control ring, side button, bezel twist, to work well with forward clickies.


----------



## markr6

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



reppans said:


> Foward clickies do not work well with multimode lights that have only one input - the momentary feature will be a mode changer rather than momentarily flashing a single mode. Multimodes need a second input like control ring, side button, bezel twist, to work well with forward clickies.



The Ryovac Indestructible series is a good example of this...at least the 2xAA version I have. That only has 2 modes so it's somewhat manageable, but still annoying IMO...and I LOVE forward clickies for momentary, just need a secondary mode selector.


----------



## mckeand13

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



reppans said:


> Foward clickies do not work well with multimode lights that have only one input - the momentary feature will be a mode changer rather than momentarily flashing a single mode. Multimodes need a second input like control ring, side button, bezel twist, to work well with forward clickies.



+1


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



tallyram said:


> Sorry! No plans for a light meter. When I was researching this specific light I came across some numbers:
> 
> 517 lumens OTF
> 11,500 cd
> 
> No info on how the numbers where measured.


 
Thanks.
I don't put much faith in random lumen readings by an unknown party.
However, lux readings are pretty easy to do, 
so I'll pretend the 11000 might be somewhat accurate.

1 Lux @ 1 m = 1 candela


----------



## Rick_R

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



reppans said:


> Foward clickies do not work well with multimode lights that have only one input - the momentary feature will be a mode changer rather than momentarily flashing a single mode. Multimodes need a second input like control ring, side button, bezel twist, to work well with forward clickies.



Thankyou for clearing that function up.
Sorry for the delay, lots of people had to go to jail & then the paperwork.:tired:

Rick


----------



## leor604

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Hey guys,

Newb user here. Lurked and learned a little and just bought my first "real" flashlights. 

Yesterday, I received a couple of D25C XML2-U2 clicky's for EDC and general use and a GX25A3 for times when I need a little more oomph. Coming from a AA LED Maglite putting out about 70 lumens, these are absolutely awesome. Especially impressed with how much light the D25C produces in such a tiny package. I think I have just become a flashaholic, lol.

Leo


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



leor604 said:


> Newb user here. Lurked and learned a little and just bought my first "real" flashlights.


:welcome:


----------



## UnreelWorld.com

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Hi guys, new flashlight guy. Bought two so far, cheap ultrafire 502b and the very nice and small edc Eagletac D25c Ti 2013 (with rcr dimmable). Here's my issue, in a direct comparison to the cheapo ultrafire 502b, which seems to put out a solid 500 lumens (based on readings on internet), my brand new d25c Ti is about the same or less WITH rcr123a EagleTac branded batteries. I don't have any cr123a yet to test but is it possible that the ET branded rcrs are not sending the Ti into directdrive? I bought the 2013 Ti version with the upgrade led (450 lumens before overdrive) because it has all output modes with RCRs but I am doubting that is throwing 750 lumens... otherwise the $10 ultrafire is putting out even more (which would be very impressive for $10 lol)

Your thoughts?
thx,
riz


----------



## lintonindy

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



UnreelWorld.com said:


> Hi guys, new flashlight guy. Bought two so far, cheap ultrafire 502b and the very nice and small edc Eagletac D25c Ti 2013 (with rcr dimmable). Here's my issue, in a direct comparison to the cheapo ultrafire 502b, which seems to put out a solid 500 lumens (based on readings on internet), my brand new d25c Ti is about the same or less WITH rcr123a EagleTac branded batteries. I don't have any cr123a yet to test but is it possible that the ET branded rcrs are not sending the Ti into directdrive? I bought the 2013 Ti version with the upgrade led (450 lumens before overdrive) because it has all output modes with RCRs but I am doubting that is throwing 750 lumens... otherwise the $10 ultrafire is putting out even more (which would be very impressive for $10 lol)
> 
> Your thoughts?
> thx,
> riz



The 2013 model does support the different modes with a RCR123 but does NOT go into direct drive. Instead, it is regulated and it puts out a very respectable 450 lumens on high. I have the D25C ti 2012 version. It DOES go into direct drive on high putting out the 750 lumen claimed. However, it does not support all modes and is at the same brightness level on medium and high with an RCR123. On primaries the two are virtually identical with the newer 2013 version having the slight advantage, due to the 2nd generation XM-L emitter efficiency. 

The cheap ultrafire 502b is probably a little brighter than the more expensive Eagletac but it's also bigger, less reliable, and I would guess the beam isn't quite as nice unless you modded it or have a rarity in your hand. The 502 I had, had a nasty green beam, plenty of brightness, but was nowhere near the light the ET is.

Enjoy your 2013 model. It is better regulated, will probably last longer, and doesn't turn into a fire hot amber in your hands within 30 seconds of turning it on high with a fresh cell. It is a very nice light with very respectable output especially given it's small stature.

Hope I helped.


----------



## UnreelWorld.com

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



lintonindy said:


> The 2013 model does support the different modes with a RCR123 but does NOT go into direct drive. Instead, it is regulated and it puts out a very respectable 450 lumens on high. I have the D25C ti 2012 version. It DOES go into direct drive on high putting out the 750 lumen claimed. However, it does not support all modes and is at the same brightness level on medium and high with an RCR123. On primaries the two are virtually identical with the newer 2013 version having the slight advantage, due to the 2nd generation XM-L emitter efficiency.
> 
> The cheap ultrafire 502b is probably a little brighter than the more expensive Eagletac but it's also bigger, less reliable, and I would guess the beam isn't quite as nice unless you modded it or have a rarity in your hand. The 502 I had, had a nasty green beam, plenty of brightness, but was nowhere near the light the ET is.
> 
> Enjoy your 2013 model. It is better regulated, will probably last longer, and doesn't turn into a fire hot amber in your hands within 30 seconds of turning it on high with a fresh cell. It is a very nice light with very respectable output especially given it's small stature.
> 
> Hope I helped.



ahh, thanks that does clear things up. I was under the impression it was dimmable BUT retained the 750 lumens... at this point based on this, I wonder if I would be more happy with the D25a instead. It allows me to use my extensive eneloop collection BUT if i desired 750 lumens a simply swap out to the li-on. Since I can have the highest output and lower light levels (as I thought I achieved with the 2013 ti) then maybe that is my best solution!

Thanks again,
riz


----------



## UnreelWorld.com

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



lintonindy said:


> The 2013 model does support the different modes with a RCR123 but does NOT go into direct drive. Instead, it is regulated and it puts out a very respectable 450 lumens on high. I have the D25C ti 2012 version. It DOES go into direct drive on high putting out the 750 lumen claimed. However, it does not support all modes and is at the same brightness level on medium and high with an RCR123. On primaries the two are virtually identical with the newer 2013 version having the slight advantage, due to the 2nd generation XM-L emitter efficiency.
> 
> The cheap ultrafire 502b is probably a little brighter than the more expensive Eagletac but it's also bigger, less reliable, and I would guess the beam isn't quite as nice unless you modded it or have a rarity in your hand. The 502 I had, had a nasty green beam, plenty of brightness, but was nowhere near the light the ET is.
> 
> Enjoy your 2013 model. It is better regulated, will probably last longer, and doesn't turn into a fire hot amber in your hands within 30 seconds of turning it on high with a fresh cell. It is a very nice light with very respectable output especially given it's small stature.
> 
> Hope I helped.



I just received my D25c ti yesterday BUT really wanted the awesome 750...

So what about this 2013 Ti?

http://www.eagletac-usa.com/products/product.aspx?pid=1-28-7147

_EagleTac - EagleTac D25C Clicky Ti XM-L2 T6 Neutral White Limited Edition 2013 Uses 1-CR123
_

_
*UPDATED LED!!* EagleTac D25C Clicky XM-L2 T6 Ti Neutral White Limited Edition 2013 Titanium Flashlight is powered by 1 - CR123 battery with an output of 424 LED lumen._
_*Using a 3.7V RCR123A Li-ion Rechargeable battery direct drives the LED at maximum current level (up to 750 LED lumen from XM-L and about 550 LED lumen from XP-G/XT-E). Limit each usage to less than five minutes (or less than one minute each with freshly charged Li-ion for the first couple times). Hold the light in your palm to help remove heat from the LED. If you find the flashlight too warm to hold, turn off the light to allow the light to cool down. Do not leave the light running unintended. When using a Li-ion cell, all brightness levels will become the highest output (except the lowest mode). Expected runtime is about 20-30 minutes
_*
BUT the one i bought doesn't say that *http://www.eagletac-usa.com/products/product.aspx?pid=1-28-7131

hmmm, so does the other Ti offer dimming and direct, or just direct? There website isn't very concise that is for sure...

Thx,
riz


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



UnreelWorld.com said:


> hmmm, so does the other Ti offer dimming and direct, or just direct? There website isn't very concise that is for sure...


You would have to clarify with the specific dealer about the performance of a given model. But odds are likely that the circuit was changed for all the D25C versions at a certain point in time, and remain that way from that point on. Oftentimes the advertising copy doesn't get fully updated as circuits get revised. Check with the dealer.

:welcome:


----------



## UnreelWorld.com

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> You would have to clarify with the specific dealer about the performance of a given model. But odds are likely that the circuit was changed for all the D25C versions at a certain point in time, and remain that way from that point on. Oftentimes the advertising copy doesn't get fully updated as circuits get revised. Check with the dealer.
> 
> :welcome:



Selfbuilt, thx for the response and your reviews, it was instrumental in my choice of eagletac products (really excellent work/info!) for my first real purchase. (I don't consider 10 bones for the 502b a 'real' purchase more like lets see how many lumens i can get for 10 bux  I bought direct from Eagletace usa. I have emailed them and have yet to hear back. As *lintonindy* suggested, the 2013 ti D25c does NOT direct drive a rc, the lumen output is simply not 750 and when compared to the 502b less (I do not have a light meter) r. At least this one model doesn't (which is reflected on their product page). But very possible the D25a does as I alluded to in a previous post (and per their product page). Soon as I hear back from ET I will post 

Thx,
riz


----------



## Boss

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I have the new XM-L2 U2 D25C Clicky. It definitely has the XM-L2 emitter, however when I cycle through modes using a Protected AW16340 3.7v, it does the following: Low>*High*>*High*, Low>*High*>*High*, Strobe, Variable Strobe, SOS,SOS2, Beacon. Is this indicative of having the old driver which supposedly does direct drive?

My clamp meter reads it's pulling 1.9A on turbo, so I'm skeptical that it is direct driving. Do you think the protected battery is maxing out at 1.9A?

For reference I also measured my D25LC2 on turbo at 1.88A, using both a Protected AW 18650 and a Samsung ICR18650.


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



UnreelWorld.com said:


> ahh, thanks that does clear things up. I was under the impression it was dimmable BUT retained the 750 lumens... at this point based on this, I wonder if I would be more happy with the D25a instead. It allows me to use my extensive eneloop collection BUT if i desired 750 lumens a simply swap out to the li-on. Since I can have the highest output and lower light levels (as I thought I achieved with the 2013 ti) then maybe that is my best solution!





UnreelWorld.com said:


> As *lintonindy* suggested, the 2013 ti D25c does NOT direct drive a rc, the lumen output is simply not 750 and when compared to the 502b less (I do not have a light meter) r. At least this one model doesn't (which is reflected on their product page). But very possible the D25a does as I alluded to in a previous post (and per their product page). Soon as I hear back from ET I will post



Eagletac's website is a real mess, as they updated some of the 2013 XM-L2 information, but left in a whole bunch of 2012 information that is now incorrect. I'm sure Christina from Eagletac will try to give you good info, but she is likely not a flashaholic obsessed with their lights, like me.

Both the 2013 Titanium XML and the new 2013 black aluminum XML2 D25C models have the A950RC *III* driver that has dimmable Li-Ion support with regulated Low<Med<High levels, but the direct drive Turbo mode does not hit 770 lumens like the 2012 D25C does.

The 2013 D25A Titanium XML model has the A400RC *III* driver.
I suspect the 2013 D25A XML2 black aluminum model might also have the new A400RC III driver.

Regardless, the 2012 D25A model with the old A400RC *I* driver does not come close to the 770 lumen direct drive Turbo mode of the 2012 D25C with the old A950RC *I* driver. I think you have improperly inferred that the D25A would be similar to the D25C. They have entirely different circuits.

The 2013 D25C black aluminum with dimmable Li-Ion support is a fantastic light. It is small, bright, and has a great clip. It's fairly inexpensive and has the latest greatest XML2 LED. 

I would also suggest taking a look at the 2013 D25LC2 XM-L2 U2 used with an Eagletac 3400mAh 18650 cell. You can thank me later.


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Boss said:


> I have the new XM-L2 U2 D25C Clicky. It definitely has the XM-L2 emitter, however when I cycle through modes using a Protected AW16340 3.7v, it does the following: Low>*High*>*High*, Low>*High*>*High*, Strobe. Is this indicative of having the old driver which supposedly does direct drive?



Not necessarily. When using a 16340, the difference between Medium mode and High mode might only be about 100 lumens. You would need to do a dark bathroom ceiling bounce test to more accurately observe the difference. Turbo mode can only accessed with head tightened, it cannot be reached by cycling through modes with head loosened. Turbo mode will still be direct drive, just not the 770 lumen super direct drive.

If it has the old 2012 driver the medium mode would have to be equal in brightness to the Turbo mode.

2012 D25C 16340 lumens
Low : 10
Med : 770
High : 770
Turbo : 770

Perhaps maybe the new model might 
possibly look a little bit something like :
2013 D25C 16340 lumens
Low : 10
Med : 200
High : 300
Turbo : 500


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



GordoJones88 said:


> Eagletac's website is a real mess, as they updated some of the 2013 XM-L2 information, but left in a whole bunch of 2012 information that is now incorrect.


Thanks for the updated info on the circuits Gordo, appreciate it. :thumbsup:


----------



## UnreelWorld.com

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



GordoJones88 said:


> Eagletac's website is a real mess, as they updated some of the 2013 XM-L2 information, but left in a whole bunch of 2012 information that is now incorrect. I'm sure Christina from Eagletac will try to give you good info, but she is likely not a flashaholic obsessed with their lights, like me.
> 
> Both the 2013 Titanium XML and the new 2013 black aluminum XML2 D25C models have the A950RC *III* driver that has dimmable Li-Ion support with regulated Low<Med<High levels, but the direct drive Turbo mode does not hit 770 lumens like the 2012 D25C does.
> 
> The 2013 D25A Titanium XML model has the A400RC *III* driver.
> I suspect the 2013 D25A XML2 black aluminum model might also have the new A400RC III driver.
> 
> Regardless, the 2012 D25A model with the old A400RC *I* driver does not come close to the 770 lumen direct drive Turbo mode of the 2012 D25C with the old A950RC *I* driver. I think you have improperly inferred that the D25A would be similar to the D25C. They have entirely different circuits.
> 
> The 2013 D25C black aluminum with dimmable Li-Ion support is a fantastic light. It is small, bright, and has a great clip. It's fairly inexpensive and has the latest greatest XML2 LED.
> 
> I would also suggest taking a look at the 2013 D25LC2 XM-L2 U2 used with an Eagletac 3400mAh 18650 cell. You can thank me later.



Thx for the info, but as a first time purchaser of any flashlights, I was looking for the smallest edc with the highest output. That looked like the D25C. I chose Ti because I thought it had the 750 output and the lower modes. ET did not properly answer my question so that leaves it up to us to figure it out.

I am looking for the 750 lumens, in a small edc light. It sounds like NO 2013 version of ET does this? If I no have a choice, the D25A seems like my best bet as it would allow eneloops for normal output and then a li-on for 750 (as it states here http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25arc/features/output.html "Offers up to 750 LED lumen when direct drive with 14500 li-ion battery."), but you think that isn't the case in the 2013 versions?

Sorry, I need clarification as I am quite confused,
thx for your time,
riz


----------



## lintonindy

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



UnreelWorld.com said:


> Thx for the info, but as a first time purchaser of any flashlights, I was looking for the smallest edc with the highest output. That looked like the D25C. I chose Ti because I thought it had the 750 output and the lower modes. ET did not properly answer my question so that leaves it up to us to figure it out.
> 
> I am looking for the 750 lumens, in a small edc light. It sounds like NO 2013 version of ET does this? If I no have a choice, the D25A seems like my best bet as it would allow eneloops for normal output and then a li-on for 750 (as it states here http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25arc/features/output.html "Offers up to 750 LED lumen when direct drive with 14500 li-ion battery."), but you think that isn't the case in the 2013 versions?
> 
> Sorry, I need clarification as I am quite confused,
> thx for your time,
> riz



Another option that I also have is a Jetbeam RRT-01 with an 18350 battery and a max output of 650 lumens. It is a little bigger than the EagleTac and not quite as bright as the 2012 version but is still a nice light. 

I'm having mine sent to a modder here named Vinh who is installing a new XM-L2 Neutral emitter and improving on the heat sinking capabilities a little bit as well. Mine will probably be very close to the 750 when all is said and done. Stock form, mine has a greenish tint that I don't really like so the mod is a must for me.

Another very nice light which is also on its way to Vinh for me is a Sunwayman V11R. I'm having him install a new emitter there as well to get rid of the cold blue tint, but it will be more focused on throw with an XP-E2 as well as some better heat sinking.

Keep an eye out on the market place for a used 2012 version. Mine will probably be going up after I receive my other lights back, but its the mini (twisty) version. I did however buy the additional aluminum tube for it to change it into a clicky so I now have a choice and it is a bit smaller than my others. Right now it serves duty as my "dressy" EDC option.

The difference between 500 and 750 looks like about 50 lumens because we don't see light changes linearly. It's really just about bragging rights and you would probably be very happy with 500 lumens coming from a CR123 based light. Maybe not, but I'm a nut and I am.


----------



## SCEMan

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



UnreelWorld.com said:


> I am looking for the 750 lumens, in a small edc light. It sounds like NO 2013 version of ET does this? If I no have a choice, the D25A seems like my best bet as it would allow eneloops for normal output and then a li-on for 750 (as it states here http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25arc/features/output.html "Offers up to 750 LED lumen when direct drive with 14500 li-ion battery."), but you think that isn't the case in the 2013 versions?




I have the 2012 D25A Ti and use it as you suggest; eneloop for moonlight and regulated mode output, and 14500 for low & direct drive Hi/Turbo modes. I don't know about 750 LED lumen, but it's crazy bright and heats up fast. Too bad we can't get everything in one light.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



lintonindy said:


> The difference between 500 and 750 looks like about 50 lumens because we don't see light changes linearly. It's really just about bragging rights and you would probably be very happy with 500 lumens coming from a CR123 based light. Maybe not, but I'm a nut and I am.


Yes, the quest for the highest possible output (in a small 1xRCR-sized light) is a bit quixotic in my view. I would personally be quite happy with "only" 500 lumens in this size.


----------



## UnreelWorld.com

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

so do you guys think this info directly from EagleTac-USA is incorrect... 

here: http://www.eagletac-usa.com/products/product.aspx?pid=1-28-7146

and here: http://www.eagletac-usa.com/products/product.aspx?pid=1-28-7176

regarding the *Using a 3.7V 14500 Li-ion Rechargeable battery direct drives the LED at maximum current level (up to 750 LED lumen from XM-L and about 550 LED lumen from XP-G/XT-E). Limit each usage to less than five minutes (or less than one minute each with freshly charged li-ion for the first couple times). Hold the light in your palm to help remove the heat from the LED. If you find the flashlight too warm to hold, turn off the light to allow the light to cool down. Do not leave the light running unintended. When using a Li-ion cell, all brightness levels will become the highest output (except the lowest mode). Expected runtime is about 20-35 minutes.


----------



## lintonindy

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



UnreelWorld.com said:


> so do you guys think this info directly from EagleTac-USA is incorrect...
> 
> here: http://www.eagletac-usa.com/products/product.aspx?pid=1-28-7146
> 
> and here: http://www.eagletac-usa.com/products/product.aspx?pid=1-28-7176
> 
> regarding the *Using a 3.7V 14500 Li-ion Rechargeable battery direct drives the LED at maximum current level (up to 750 LED lumen from XM-L and about 550 LED lumen from XP-G/XT-E). Limit each usage to less than five minutes (or less than one minute each with freshly charged li-ion for the first couple times). Hold the light in your palm to help remove the heat from the LED. If you find the flashlight too warm to hold, turn off the light to allow the light to cool down. Do not leave the light running unintended. When using a Li-ion cell, all brightness levels will become the highest output (except the lowest mode). Expected runtime is about 20-35 minutes.



Yes.


----------



## Boss

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



GordoJones88 said:


> Not necessarily. When using a 16340, the difference between Medium mode and High mode might only be about 100 lumens. You would need to do a dark bathroom ceiling bounce test to more accurately observe the difference. Turbo mode can only accessed with head tightened, it cannot be reached by cycling through modes with head loosened. Turbo mode will still be direct drive, just not the 770 lumen super direct drive.
> 
> If it has the old 2012 driver the medium mode would have to be equal in brightness to the Turbo mode.



I did further comparisons in a dark bathroom, ceiling bounce. D25C Clicky XM-L2 U2, running on a AW Protected 16340. I went from "Medium" mode then tightened the head to "Turbo" mode and there is no visible difference.

I either have a defective driver or the old driver. I'm actually hoping for the old driver.

I'm curious to see if anyone else has the 2013 D25C XM-L2 U2 that behaves this way. Also, if anyone has a chance, measure the Tail Current in Turbo mode while using a 16340 battery. Mine was pulling 1.9A on turbo.

Thanks


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



selfbuilt said:


> Yes, the quest for the highest possible output (in a small 1xRCR-sized light) is a bit quixotic in my view.










Look how big his flashlight was.


----------



## orbital

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

+

Since this is the _de facto _D25 thread,, 

Tod at illuminationGear has some custom D25LC2 Mini {Twisty} units coming.
either XM-L2 or XP-G2, both 2A High mode 


__________________^


----------



## UnreelWorld.com

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

To confirm my findings. My ET 2013 D25C XM-L Ti with RCR123a and CR123a does indeed output the same. I had not tried cr's until today, it was based on the lumen output when compared to the cheapo ultrafire 502b.


----------



## Serenity

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Today I received my D25A Clicky Alu XM-L2 Neutral White. At least, that's what I ordered. The box is a bit confusing though, the sticker with the specs says CREE XM-L U2. Then there is a yellow sticker saying "Upgrade for FREE, CREE XM-L2 U2 15% brighter!". On the side there is a sticker saying Neutral White 4300K LED.

The text "Upgrade for FREE" sounds to me like it hasn't been upgraded yet. But I checked the emitter with a magnifying glass, and it shows the dotted pattern, so it is indeed an XM-L2. The U2 version is Cool White 5000K - 8300K according to Cree's data sheet though. According to the spec sheet, Neutral White specs are T5 or T6. The Eagletac web site says the Neutral White version is the XM-L2 T6 though (which is a lower output Cool White bin according to Cree). The light does look pretty neutral to me though, at least it's not as cool as my Fenix LD01 (XP-G Cool White), but not as warm a Maglite incandescents. I really like the tint though, but I'm just wondering whether it's normal that the packaging (and web site) shows this information that doesn't seem correct.

Unfortunately it does suffer from the preflash issue. It's very noticable on the lowest output (in Group 1 - head loosened a bit). An easy way to test is just to do a long half press (also handy to go back to moonlight/low). I haven't tested during the night yet, so I'm not sure whether it will bother me a lot. With an AA NiMH cell, the preflash is a bit brighter than the lowest mode (either low or moonlight). With a Li-Ion 14500, the preflash is very dim though compared to the low/moonlight mode (which is brighter with a a 14500 ofc). I'm wondering whether the preflash with a 14500 might be about the same as the preflash with a NiMH, but I don't know a good way to check that. At some point I kept getting a very bright flash when turning off the light (with 14500), but I haven't been able to reproduce that. I'm wondering whether the head was very nearly tightened and the pressure from clicking caused it to make contact and put it in turbo just before switching off.

For me, the regulated output with a 14500 is very impressive though from such a tiny thing. The old direct drive version must be completely crazy. I'm wondering whether the driver will cut off at low voltage though, seeing that it also works for NiMH cells. I guess it could be possible that it won't output any light between 1.8 and 2.8V for example. But I'd like to know, as I currently only have some unprotected 14500's.


----------



## lightcycle1

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

ypu indeed have the XML2 version. i questioned my dealer and ET both about the confusing box markings.
seems ET didnt print new boxes they just put a sticker on the old box for the new XML2 emitters.

i was scratching my head over that too.

great light + tint. love it sofar. I bought the D25LC2 XML2 U2 

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2


----------



## UnreelWorld.com

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Serenity said:


> Today I received my D25A Clicky Alu XM-L2 Neutral White. At least, that's what I ordered. The box is a bit confusing though, the sticker with the specs says CREE XM-L U2. Then there is a yellow sticker saying "Upgrade for FREE, CREE XM-L2 U2 15% brighter!". On the side there is a sticker saying Neutral White 4300K LED.
> 
> The text "Upgrade for FREE" sounds to me like it hasn't been upgraded yet. But I checked the emitter with a magnifying glass, and it shows the dotted pattern, so it is indeed an XM-L2. The U2 version is Cool White 5000K - 8300K according to Cree's data sheet though. According to the spec sheet, Neutral White specs are T5 or T6. The Eagletac web site says the Neutral White version is the XM-L2 T6 though (which is a lower output Cool White bin according to Cree). The light does look pretty neutral to me though, at least it's not as cool as my Fenix LD01 (XP-G Cool White), but not as warm a Maglite incandescents. I really like the tint though, but I'm just wondering whether it's normal that the packaging (and web site) shows this information that doesn't seem correct.
> 
> Unfortunately it does suffer from the preflash issue. It's very noticable on the lowest output (in Group 1 - head loosened a bit). An easy way to test is just to do a long half press (also handy to go back to moonlight/low). I haven't tested during the night yet, so I'm not sure whether it will bother me a lot. With an AA NiMH cell, the preflash is a bit brighter than the lowest mode (either low or moonlight). With a Li-Ion 14500, the preflash is very dim though compared to the low/moonlight mode (which is brighter with a a 14500 ofc). I'm wondering whether the preflash with a 14500 might be about the same as the preflash with a NiMH, but I don't know a good way to check that. At some point I kept getting a very bright flash when turning off the light (with 14500), but I haven't been able to reproduce that. I'm wondering whether the head was very nearly tightened and the pressure from clicking caused it to make contact and put it in turbo just before switching off.
> 
> For me, the regulated output with a 14500 is very impressive though from such a tiny thing. The old direct drive version must be completely crazy. I'm wondering whether the driver will cut off at low voltage though, seeing that it also works for NiMH cells. I guess it could be possible that it won't output any light between 1.8 and 2.8V for example. But I'd like to know, as I currently only have some unprotected 14500's.



Hi thanks for your review. i am having some issues with my D25c ti. Can you estimate that with the li-on it is indeed putting out near 750 lumens as eagletac suggests?

thx,
riz


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Serenity said:


> Today I received my D25A Clicky Alu XM-L2 Neutral White. At least, that's what I ordered. The box is a bit confusing though, the sticker with the specs says CREE XM-L U2. Then there is a yellow sticker saying "Upgrade for FREE, CREE XM-L2 U2 15% brighter!". On the side there is a sticker saying Neutral White 4300K LED.
> 
> For me, the regulated output with a 14500 is very impressive though from such a tiny thing. The old direct drive version must be completely crazy.



Yes, Eagletac uses stickers to indicate the exact specifications. There have been many different models and upgrades the last few years. You can always check the serial number on the box to also match up the correct model and LED bin.

No, the old 2012 D25A never had crazy output, it was never comparable to the D25C 770 lumens, not even close. Turbo mode is always in direct drive, with no constant current regulation. With the 2012 D25A model, using a 4.2v 14500 instead of a 1.5v AA, the Med and High and Turbo were all the same output. The 2013 D25 models, there is some spacing in between the Med and High and Turbo. But the Turbo is always still in direct drive with no constant current regulation.


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

A few years ago, most AA and CR123 lights did not accept a Lithium Ion cell. If used, it could damage the circuit and void the warranty. Manufacturers started adjusting the circuits and drivers to allow the use of Li-Ions, but there are compromises like losing some modes. The D25A is designed for a 1.5v AA battery, now stick a 4.2v 14500 Li-Ion cell in it and all the voltages become too high. So compromises have to be made each way and yields an imperfect situation. If the light is designed strictly for a 1.5v AA battery, then the circuit is tweaked for improved runtimes. If the circuit has to deal with multiple voltages, then there is a compromise with reduced runtime efficiency.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



GordoJones88 said:


> A few years ago, most AA and CR123 lights did not accept a Lithium Ion cell. ... So compromises have to be made each way and yields an imperfect situation. If the light is designed strictly for a 1.5v AA battery, then the circuit is tweaked for improved runtimes. If the circuit has to deal with multiple voltages, then there is a compromise with reduced runtime efficiency.


Well put. For those who are wondering, this is how Zebralight was able to produce such a superbly efficiency AA-light in the SC51 - 14500 Li-ion was not supported, so the circuit could be optimized for AA voltage levels exclusively. With the SC52, 14500 support was restored, but with relatively lower efficiency compared to standard AAs (i.e., the SC52 is still a superbly efficient AA light, but fairly standard on 14500).


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



UnreelWorld.com said:


> Hi thanks for your review. i am having some issues with my D25c ti. Can you estimate that with the li-on it is indeed putting out near 750 lumens as eagletac suggests?



He has the D25A. It's output has never been anywhere near as high as the D25C. They use completely different circuits and drivers. If you really want that 2012 D25C XM-L U2 black aluminum 770 lumen model, then contact dealers before the old stock runs out. First contact the dealer who sold you the light to see if it's not too late for an exchange. If not contact Eagletac via email, they have really great customer service. 

However, something to note about the infamous 770 lumens. It only last a few seconds. At such an incredibly stupid-high output, the battery is being drained extremely quickly and the voltage is dropping rapidly. Within just a minute the output is gonna be 600 lumens, then 500 lumens another minute later. Turn off the light. Now the next day when you turn it back on, it's gonna start at 500 lumens, because the battery was already drained the day before running it for a few minutes. Selfbuilt has stressed in recent reviews that one should focus on the runtime graph. Simply looking at the output chart and seeing 770 lumens can be very misleading. The reading was taken at a single early point in time on a freshly charged 4.2v cell. 


For maximum brightness you should recharge the battery every 3 minutes.









Another note, Selfbuilt indicates on his chart that he used an IMR chemistry 16340 for testing. It produces more amps than the ICR chemistry 16340. The Eagletac RCR123 is ICR, and does not safely yield enough current to produce more than the 2 amps required.

Yet another note, your eyes can barely tell the difference between 500 lumens and 700 lumens.

And yet one last note, 
the 2012 D25C had only two brightness levels with 16340, 
10 lumens and 770 lumens.
It was a flawed design.
They fixed it, you have the new and improved model.


----------



## Serenity

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



GordoJones88 said:


> Yes, EagleTac uses stickers to indicate the exact specifications. There have been many different models and upgrades the last few years. You can always check the serial number on the box to also match up the correct model and LED bin.



I've been trying to find how to get the LED bin from the serial number, but haven't found anything so far. I did find another post about the labeling issues, but nothing about Cree saying that the T6 is cool white and EagleTac using that for neutral white.



UnreelWorld.com said:


> Can you estimate that with the li-on it is indeed putting out near 750 lumens as eagletac suggests?


As others have already mentioned, the 2013 version of the D25A Clicky Alu doesn't go into direct drive on a 3.6V Li-ion anymore. I knew that, but was still surprised with the amount of light. That might be because this is only my second LED flashlight, and when taking size into account and comparing it to an incandecent Maglite 3D, it's just crazy.

I've tried to get a bit more objective indication by using a light meter meant for photography. That shows 1 EV more on 3.6V Li-ion compared to NiMH, so it's probably about twice as bright.

What I hadn't realized was that the new driver with regulation for 3.6V Li-ion would mean it would be less efficient for NiMH batteries. It would be interesting to know how much impact that has on runtime, would it be enough to result in a change in specified runtimes on EagleTac's site (assuming the information there was accurate)?


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



GordoJones88 said:


> However, something to note about the infamous 770 lumens. It only last a few seconds. At such an incredibly stupid-high output, the battery is being drained extremely quickly and the voltage is dropping rapidly. Within just a minute the output is gonna be 600 lumens, then 500 lumens another minute later. Turn off the light. Now the next day when you turn it back on, it's gonna start at 500 lumens, because the battery was already drained the day before running it for a few minutes. Selfbuilt has stressed in recent reviews that one should focus on the runtime graph. Simply looking at the output chart and seeing 770 lumens can be very misleading.
> 
> For maximum brightness you should recharge the battery every 3 minutes.
> 
> Another note, Selfbuilt indicates on his chart that he used an IMR chemistry 16340 for testing. It produces more amps than the ICR chemistry 16340. The Eagletac RCR123 is ICR, and does not safely yield enough current to produce more than the 2 amps required.
> 
> Yet another note, your eyes can barely tell the difference between 500 lumens and 700 lumens.
> 
> And yet one last note, the 2012 D25C had only two brightness levels with 16340, 10 lumens and 770 lumens. It was a flawed design. They fixed it, you have the new and improved model.


Well summarized GordoJones. :twothumbs


----------



## SCEMan

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



GordoJones88 said:


> They fixed it, you have the new and improved model.


But don't the 2013 D25C's lose Moonlight mode and have a Preflash issue? I've heard the D25A's do, and this has kept me from picking one up...


----------



## Nicola

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Serenity said:


> ... The box is a bit confusing though, the sticker with the specs says CREE XM-L U2. Then there is a yellow sticker saying "Upgrade for FREE, CREE XM-L2 U2 15% brighter!". ...
> The text "Upgrade for FREE" sounds to me like it hasn't been upgraded yet. ...



That's exactly what happened to me when my D25LC2 Clicky arrived. I had to visually check the bin.
I understand ET using old boxes for new products but the sticker is horribly misleading...

It should be written "UpgradeD for FREE, CREE XM-L2 U2 15% brighter!"


----------



## fredted40x

Has anyone used eagletacs 750 mah 16340 in the D25C?

Just trying to work out is t working on my D25C as the replacement is also not working properly


----------



## lintonindy

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



fredted40x said:


> Has anyone used eagletacs 750 mah 16340 in the D25C?
> 
> Just trying to work out is t working on my D25C as the replacement is also not working properly



Got one in mine right now.


----------



## thousandpointsoflight

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



fredted40x said:


> Has anyone used eagletacs 750 mah 16340 in the D25C?
> 
> Just trying to work out is t working on my D25C as the replacement is also not working properly



I have a D25C Clicky that I purchased about 6 weeks ago. Last night I put an eagletac 750 mah 16340 in it. It was insanely bright. It did retain the low, turbo, and blinky modes, but I lost the medium and high. I ran it for only about a minute and it did not get particularly hot.


----------



## Cereal_Killer

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I have just received my D25C NW XML and I notice one thing different from what I expected (what I read in the review). After turning memory on I have no memory on group 2, anyone else not have mode 2 memory after enabling it (and verifying group 1 does have it?)


Also in the user guide ET claims the light will be 20% brighter if turned on in turbo vs if you turn it on in group 1 and then tighten the head for turbo. I see no difference by eye so can anyone with a meter confirm if there is any difference?


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I had the same lack of memory problem.
After buying the 2012 D25C XM-L U2 ti for the crazy direct drive lumens I found I wanted to have memory and all my light levels with RCR123's. So after only days of owning the light I read about the newer 2013 ti. I order one from a place in British Columbia on line because my local Toronto store has only the 2012's. I also wanted the XP-G2 emitter, I love those. When it arrives and I try it out it has the levels with an RCR but....no memory!!! So I contact the guy in B.C. and he says he will contact Christine at Eagletac. He also askes if I am functioning it correctly. I told him I am and that my2012 works properly for memory. Christine e-mails the guy in B.C. back telling him to ask if I am functioning it properly [the correct twisting back and forth] I reply yes. I tell him that it works on my 2012 so I must know how to do it correctly. He says he will contact Christina again, but now he starts to tell me that the 2013 does not have memory, and with many e-mails back and forth he is now insisting that none of the 2013's have memory. He claims all of his XM-L's from 2012 in his inventory all function the same way - no memory. Even his personal 2013 has no memory. I give up!
I contact Christina myself. "Send me your address and I will send you a new head" A few weeks later it arrives. Works great, all the levels of light output on a RCR123 and MEMORY!
Long story short [too late] contact Christina at Eagletac directly because they offer great warranty service, and often a dealer does not know his *** from a hole in the ground. This guy in B.C. even tried to tell me that the 2012's do not even have memory. I told him mine does, as all the instructions clearly state they do. He still says they don't and that he tried all the ones in his stock. "So my 2012 is a freak of nature and is the only one in the world which has memory?" I ask him. He sort of implies that it is!!!
After getting my replacement I e-mailed him back and informed him of my new properly functioning head unit, and that he should return all his stock to Eagletac for replacements. Maybe there were whole shipments going out that did not work correctly.

Again, even longer story short....e-mail Christina at Eagletac. She will look after you.


----------



## Cereal_Killer

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Anyone else confirm my 2013 D25C clicky XM-L (NW) SHOULD HAVE MEMORY on group 2 (turbo/strobe) once memory is turned on (and verified to be working on group 1)? So my unit is defective?

The memory reset/jump to low trick for group 1 doesnt work either but I'm not sure it should on the D25C. 

FWIW I like the light much more than I thought, I really didnt think I'd use it at all, but it just looks so nice, and I really like the switch, especially considering its reverse clicky.


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

So perhaps I misunderstood you. Memory only works in the group where you have low/med/high/ and all the disco flashy blinky stuff. No memory in the group where you have turbo and strobe. There is no point to have memory where you only have turbo and strobe I suppose.


----------



## leor604

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



loquutis79 said:


> So perhaps I misunderstood you. Memory only works in the group where you have low/med/high/ and all the disco flashy blinky stuff. No memory in the group where you have turbo and strobe. There is no point to have memory where you only have turbo and strobe I suppose.



Instructions clearly state the memory functions only apply to Group 1 ("low/med/high/ and all the disco flashy blinky stuff").

FWIW, my D25C XM-L2 U2's do not NOT have any memory functions that I can find. Don't know if I have 2012's or 2013's (bought one month ago, how to tell?) or if that makes any difference, but no amount of loosening/tightening provides any memory function. After I turn off, they turn on in either moonlight or low EVERY time. I prefer this anyway so there are no blinding surprises.

Mine are also from the "BC dealer" so he was not lying to you about the lights not having any memory (why would he lie??). I am somewhat suspect of ET's quality control as I had to go through three GX25A3's before I got one that worked properly. The "BC dealer" took care of me without question and I would buy from him again and feel confident in my purchase.


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

And I too would buy from him again, nice guy. I think he had a bad batch, that's why I suggested to him to contact Christina about his inventory. But even with 2012's, on primary batteries you should still get memory. Not so sure about RCR'S.


----------



## leor604

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I use primaries and have no memory :shrug:. 

Like I said, I am suspect of ET's consistency or quality control. I am not bashing, just reporting my experience (see also my post in the GX25A3 thread in the LED flashlights forum).


----------



## bhonder

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Our backyard tenant, caught by Nikon+ D25A2:


----------



## petr9999

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Anyone measure the med mode on d25c ti xml2 running and IMR? By eye its about 400-500lm, with the turbo around 800lm can anyone confirm?

Imo I have 4 brightness settings on IMR, 0.5lm, ±10lm, ±500lm, ±800lm


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



bhonder said:


> Our backyard tenant, caught by Nikon+ D25A2:



Is that a badger!?


----------



## bhonder

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> Is that a badger!?



Yes, and he enjoys digging holes in our grass field and even more under our hazelnut trees...


----------



## recDNA

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Fixed by using aw battery instead of safefiire. 


My D25C clicky starts in low in both the tightened and loosened state. I tried the twists starting with loose but cannot get any kind of memory. I am using Li IOn. Can anyone help me out? I want either the loose or tight state (one or the other) to start at medium or high. No matter what I do it starts in low.


----------



## petr9999

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

u need 3 twists starting with tightened! (losen it 3 times really fast)


----------



## recDNA

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

The problem was the battery I was using. I suspect it is too long. Works fine with AW IMR

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2


----------



## recDNA

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Has anyone measured the amps at the tailcap of the XML vs XPG-2 models? Thanks!


----------



## recDNA

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



cyclesport said:


> FWIW Tod @ illuminationgear placed an order w/ET late 2012 and is currently stocking the EagleTac D25LC2 CLICKY XP-G2
> CUSTOM EDITION (2amp / 595 Lumen) in the cool tint, and he is awaiting the NW also. As I understand it, the NW version shoud be in very soon.



I purchased this "2 amp" model but I see nothing on the package to indicate it has a different driver and I only measure 1.4 amps at the tailcap with a fluke 73. How do I know if I really have the 2 amp driver? 

Thanks! 

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2


----------



## MichaelW

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

It is 2 amps during the funtime [before step down], at the LED.


----------



## lebox97

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

rec
for a faster response - contact the place of purchase? :wave:

Look at box = for the "Custom" models, there should be a "*C*" above the the XM-L2 (Mini)/XP-G2 sticker, and also a "*C*" on the right side of box?
(you'll also find light get's hotter quicker than the stock light due to the higher drive current/output)

As mentioned - tail cap current doesn't tell you LED current, 
and, tail current will vary for different battery types and charge condition.

Cheers
Tod




recDNA said:


> I purchased this "2 amp" model but I see nothing on the package to indicate it has a different driver and I only measure 1.4 amps at the tailcap with a fluke 73. How do I know if I really have the 2 amp driver?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2


----------



## recDNA

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



lebox97 said:


> rec
> for a faster response - contact the place of purchase? :wave:
> 
> Look at box = there should be a "*C*" above the the XM-L2 (Mini)/XP-G2 sticker, and also a "*C*" on the right side of box?
> (you'll also find light get's hotter quicker than the stock light due to the higher drive current/output)
> 
> As mentioned - tail cap current doesn't tell you LED current,
> and, tail current will vary for different battery types and charge condition.
> 
> Cheers
> Tod



Thanks Todd I'll check

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2


----------



## recDNA

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



biglights said:


> I second this ^^^^^^


I have the D25LC2 xp-g2 with 2 amp driver. I have repeatedly tried the start at loose then tighten and loosen 3 times with flashlight on. After the 3rd twist back to loose i should see a lower low but i see no difference whatsoever. I am using a button top 18650 in case that matters. Any suggestions?


----------



## BLUE LED

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



recDNA said:


> I have the D25LC2 xp-g2 with 2 amp driver. I have repeatedly tried the start at loose then tighten and loosen 3 times with flashlight on. After the 3rd twist back to loose i should see a lower low but i see no difference whatsoever. I am using a button top 18650 in case that matters. Any suggestions?



The difference is tiny as it is not a true moonlight mode.

Regular Low 400 Lux
Moonlight Low 210 Lux

I couldn't see the difference with my eyes


----------



## recDNA

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

oh i see. too bad. now i don't even know which mode im in then. does it blink or anything to let u know if u changed modes? i saw nothin. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2


----------



## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I love my 2 amp XP-G. Tighter spot and more throw than my XM-L 1.5 amp driver. But yes, with either one you can barely see the difference in the two low settings. In fact the only way I know for sure is not from looking right at the projected beam, but from a ceiling bounce and then looking at something on the floor or elsewhere. Then the difference in lumens is more noticeable. But even then it is very little. They are all like this. 
The D25C has more of a difference than the D25LC2.


----------



## recDNA

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

great tip. i love. mine too.... so light and small yet holds 18650. at any distance looks brighter than my xml d25lc

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2


----------



## mactavish

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Great reviews of most of the EagleTac lineup by Selfbuilt once again. Since he was unable to review the D25A clicky (not sent to him), and there are some new LED options, if like me this AA model is your main interest, another thread was started, you may be interested in here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?358995-EagleTac-D25A-Clicky&p=4284844#post4284844


----------



## bser

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I recently received an eagletac d25c xml2 advertised to be neutral white. I am using fully charged aw 16340's to power it. I have noticed that there is no noticeable difference between high and turbo modes. When reading back through this post and other's post about this light it appears that while the new version of this light isn't as bright on turbo as the 2012 model everyone else gets at least some sort of usable boost when switching from high to the turbo mode. I have accessed both groups and tried enabling memory and high is still equal in brightness to turbo. Is it possible I received a defective light?


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



bser said:


> I recently received an eagletac d25c xml2 advertised to be neutral white. I am using fully charged aw 16340's to power it. I have noticed that there is no noticeable difference between high and turbo modes. I have accessed both groups and tried enabling memory and high is still equal in brightness to turbo. Is it possible I received a defective light?



The Eagletac website shows the D25 clicky series as "new" so there has likely been some sort of update and refresh to the lineup. I have reason to suspect it is possible that Eagletac has gone back to something like the original A950RC circuit that is less regulated on 16340s.

I see no mention of the previous documentation that said "dimmable output when using Li-Ion".

They make mention of "XP-G2 offers up to 550 LED lumens when direct drove with 16340 Li-Ion battery" that didn't use to be there before.

You should tell us how your light is behaving. Put in a freshly charged 16340, and use a dark bathroom to do a ceiling bounce test. With head loosened and Memory Mode Off, see if you get 10->750->750 lumens twice in a row before getting to the blinkies. To get back to the start of Low-Med-High mode quickly, half-depress the clicky for 2 seconds to reset. Let us know.


----------



## bser

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

There is a difference between medium and high when cycling through. There is just no difference between high and turbo. I have tried two different fully charged aw 16340 ICR cells. I have also tried every combination of the different groups and memory and have had no luck making turbo any brighter than high.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

There isn't much difference between high and turbo on these lights..


----------



## bser

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I'm thinking a turbo mode still ought to be noticeably brighter than high. My modes are identical. It is quite bright on high regardless, but I also don't notice a difference in the medium mode when I turn the moonlight mode on as eagletac claims I should. My light does this:
Head tight: high, strobe. 
Head loose (Moonlight mode on): Moonlight, medium, high, Moonlight, medium, high, blinkys.... 
Head loose (Moonlight off): Low, Medium, High, Low, Medium, High, Blinkys....
The Medium and high settings appear to always be the same. And the (turbo) setting with the head tight is always the same as the high setting with the head loose.


----------



## blackFFM

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



bser said:


> There is a difference between medium and high when cycling through. There is just no difference between high and turbo. I have tried two different fully charged aw 16340 ICR cells. I have also tried every combination of the different groups and memory and have had no luck making turbo any brighter than high.





BWX said:


> There isn't much difference between high and turbo on these lights..





bser said:


> I'm thinking a turbo mode still ought to be noticeably brighter than high. My modes are identical. It is quite bright on high regardless, but I also don't notice a difference in the medium mode when I turn the moonlight mode on as eagletac claims I should. My light does this:
> Head tight: high, strobe.
> Head loose (Moonlight mode on): Moonlight, medium, high, Moonlight, medium, high, blinkys....
> Head loose (Moonlight off): Low, Medium, High, Low, Medium, High, Blinkys....
> The Medium and high settings appear to always be the same. And the (turbo) setting with the head tight is always the same as the high setting with the head loose.




You won't notice any difference between some modes when using 16340. This light is made for cr123 which sucks. Eagtac need to get their mode spacing right for rechargeables.


----------



## petr9999

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

same for me, 16340 it low stays low, medium is now high, and high and turbo are direct drive (when you change the moonlight mode, its different on low and medium)

on eagletacs website, it states that the medium migh tbe direct drive as well on lions, so its normal, at least we got 3 modes, we lose a medium though


----------



## mactavish

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



bser said:


> I recently received an eagletac d25c xml2 advertised to be neutral white. I am using fully charged aw 16340's to power it. I have noticed that there is no noticeable difference between high and turbo modes. When reading back through this post and other's post about this light it appears that while the new version of this light isn't as bright on turbo as the 2012 model everyone else gets at least some sort of usable boost when switching from high to the turbo mode. I have accessed both groups and tried enabling memory and high is still equal in brightness to turbo. Is it possible I received a defective light?



I own a new 25A, and that's the same behavior I see on this light. With a AA alkaline or Energizer Lithium Primary, going from the 3 mode twist setting, I get a small "boost" of output when I twist the head to the 2 mode setting of "turbo/strobe". With a 3.7 volt rechargeable lithium, the "high mode" is the same as the "turbo mode", easy to see the behavior by simply twisting the head from 3 mode to 2 mode. While this does not surprise me, it is different then the "boost" or high output mode on my Zebra Light SC52W, which does show a lumen boost with a rechargeable lithium 3.7v battery. The Zebra is so far, my preferred AA light for use with rechargeable lithiums. At least the EagleTac D25A is "lithium" compatible, unlike the Fenix AA lineup so far. No matter what current AA light you use with rechargeable lithiums, most units seem to drain the batteries very quickly on the highest output, "turbo" or otherwise. Some step down after a minute to the next level down, sometimes referred to as "high mode". I've bought and tested a few of the latest brand AA lights in search of the highest outputs, and at this point, I am satisfied that with the current crop of LED's, they have reached the peak outputs that can be delivered in this AA configuration.


----------



## BLUE LED

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I am using AW IMR 16340 in my D25C XM-L2 and can confirm that high is exactly the same as turbo. However medium mode is easier to see when the low is in moonlight mode. My 3 levels of light are well spaced in this set-up.


----------



## orbital

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

+

Last night I fired up my D25LC2* and it wouldn't get the Low mode,, just a quick flash
DeOxit the whole thing and the same flash on Low

Tried a different (same type) cell and everything was fine,, so I checked the Voltage on my unprotected 18650 and it measured just below 3V { 2.98'ish V}

So, what's my point:: it could be possible that ET has Voltage Protection in their D25 series using Li-Ion & it's not stated in the manual.

Anyone else see this??



* Mini


----------



## rdrfronty

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I know there has been a bit of confusion on the power output and modes on the 2013 D25C's vs the 2012 D25C's. Between brother and I we own 2ea 2012 XML Ti's, 1ea 2012 XML aluminum, 2ea 2013 XPG2's, and 1ea 2013 XML2. And yes we love D25C's. We just got the 2013 models due to some awesome deals out now. 
Anyway we have tested all models, especially with AW IMR's.
As most know the 2012 models only retain low and turbo levels on 16340's. This is true in all 3 if tested. Now the 2013 was what we really wanted to know what they could do. So yes, the 2013 models do retain their modes with 16340 use - sorta. Apparently they only have 3 modes though. They have eliminated a medium mode it appears. Turbo and high is the same thing. 
Now the other significant news is that the 2013 models do not have the same output on 16340's. At least for certain the XML based models do not. 
Now my numbers are lower than the OP's, not sure if its our lightbox differences or if they sent him a very "happy" model D25C. But its a moot point since mainly this is a comparison test of the 2012 vs 2013 models. 
Anyway, my results -
2012 XML D25C - Low - 11 lumens, Turbo - 650 lumens (all 3 lights tested within 10 lumens of each other)
2013 XML2 D25C - Low - 8 lumens, Medium/High - 231 lumens, Turbo - 527 lumens
2013 XPG2 D25c - Low - (not recorded), medium/High - 196 lumens, Turbo - 472 lumens (both lights very similar)
All numbers were recorded at 30 seconds in my lightbox. All lights had fresh off the charger AW IMR's. 
I know I have tested my 2012 models in the 2.2A range. Vinh has stated the 2013 models to be in the 1.5a range.


----------



## SCEMan

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Although not a side-by-side comparison; when using a 14500, I've noticed my 2013 D25A XM-L2 is not as bright on turbo as my 2012 D25A Ti XM-L was.
Odd, since turbo is supposed to be direct-drive in each case...


----------



## defloyd77

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I just got my D25A2 NW XM-L2 in today and I'm honestly a bit disappointed with it. The neutral seems pretty cool, there's barely any perceivable brightness difference between medium and high and when moon light is enabled, medium doesn't look like it's at a lower 24 lumens, it looks to still be that barely distinguishable from high output with moon mode disabled. This is with NiMH. Think I might be sending this one back....


----------



## kpangy

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thanks selfbuilt for a very informative, just ordered myself a D25C Ti over the S10 / S20 I had previously had my eye on due to this round up. 

Sorry to hear your dissapointed with yours defloyed77, did you end up sending it back?


----------



## defloyd77

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



kpangy said:


> Thanks selfbuilt for a very informative, just ordered myself a D25C Ti over the S10 / S20 I had previously had my eye on due to this round up.
> 
> Sorry to hear your dissapointed with yours defloyed77, did you end up sending it back?



I forgot to do an update. I'm keeping it. After playing around with it and comparing it's amazing output to my other 2AA lights, the output on both mediums dropped to where they should be. Looking at SB's runtime graph on medium 1, it shows a small drop on Eneloops, but a much more noticeable one with alkalines that seems much closer to what I was seeing, likely because my "Duraloops" were fresh off the charger. Overall I'm pretty happy with this light.


----------



## jruser

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Could somebody more knowledgable comment on the "noise" selfbuilt reported in the PWM testing? I was just wondering what it is, and what the cause may be.

Last year I bought a D25A Mini (XP-G2 model), and it clearly had PWM on lower modes when running on an Eneloop. I got rid of it for that reason.

Now, I have just bought an XM-L2 NW D25LC2 Clicky and a Nichia 219 D25LC2 Clicky. The Nichia version shows no signs of PWM at all. The XM-L2 version does some weird things when I put it in front of a cell phone camera, which normally indicates PWM. When I do my normal routine for finding PWM though, I can't see any. I was wondering if the "noise" reported by selfbuilt could be the cause of the camera weirdness.


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



jruser said:


> The Nichia version shows no signs of PWM at all. The XM-L2 version does some weird things when I put it in front of a cell phone camera, which normally indicates PWM. When I do my normal routine for finding PWM though, I can't see any. I was wondering if the "noise" reported by selfbuilt could be the cause of the camera weirdness.


Yes, that is quite likely what is happening. The cell camera trick doesn't actually detect PWM - it simple detects any regular interruption to the output, if the intensity is high enough and the frequency is low enough. The circuit "noise" I can measure with the oscilloscope is in the right freq range that it is possible you could pick it up that way. Note that the intensity of this signal noise can be highly variable between samples. It's a feature of how circuits operate - they are complex things with multiple components, some of which can have interference effects.

End of the day, none of this matters so long as you can't see it by eye - it isn't PWM, and it doesn't affect performance. If you have a current-controlled light with a visible flicker, I would send it back. But if you only detect it on camera, I wouldn't consider that an issue.


----------



## tcr03

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

So im thinking of getting a d25c. I have the new titanium version and now want the standard one. How can i tell if im getting a new one that can run on rcr125 cells and still function like my titanium one.


----------



## lyyyghtey

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I have a question about the D25A2, specifically the Nichia 219 version though I'm not sure it matters. 

In light of the fact that the drivers have changed since Selfbuilt's original review, did Eagletac do any shifting of brightness levels? I'm hoping they spaced the levels a bit more visually evenly than initially, i.e. something more like .2 (moon), 15, 120, 330 rather than the initial values Seflbuilt reported of .2, 65, 220, 330lm (assuming XP-G S2).

Actually I'm much more interested in level spacing and CRI than absolute output levels, hence I could care less if the Nichia 219 hi-CRI has lower output than the XP-G levels). 

If anyone can confirm that a sufficient level change has been made please do so- I probably will buy at least one. (Assuming it can still run no-memory-mode!)

Thank you!


----------



## Zmanz

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I am interested in one of these lights. Is the 2014 version better then the previous in the C? It will be an EDC light maybe hunting blood tracking backup so what emitter is best?


----------



## jabara572

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I just bought an Eagletac D25A Clicky XP-G2 (with a sticker saying it has the new XP-G2 S2) from goinggear

on a freshly charged Eagletac 14500 its only drawing .8-1.0 amps on high/turbo???:shakehead Is that normal?? I am very underwhelmed with the brightness of the light on a 14500, it really kind of sucks...

Over at BLF, Kreisler did a tailcap test and measured 1.27A and ~420 lumens out of a D25A Ti.. what is going on with mine??? Is it defective or has Eagletac neutered the D25A down to the mid 200 lumens on a 14500 now??


----------



## kreisl

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I have the D25A xp-g2 S2 too and i am recharging now my 14500 cells. With a fully charged cell the current draw is higher. Will test several cells, i don't have Eagletac 14500 though.


----------



## jabara572

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



kreisl said:


> I have the D25A xp-g2 S2 too and i am recharging now my 14500 cells. With a fully charged cell the current draw is higher. Will test several cells, i don't have Eagletac 14500 though. Stay tuned for my EDIT...



Another thing I noticed is that it is barely.... and I mean barely brighter on a 14500 than an Eneloop....


----------



## kreisl

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



jabara572 said:


> and I mean barely brighter on a 14500 than an Eneloop....



i checked, i got the same current measurements with full cells, 1.27A is spot on for the titanium clicky. one needs to remove the pocket clip, then screw off the titanium tailcap, remove the clicky, tighten the head against the titanium body (with the 14500 battery inside), use the "A"-setting (not "mA") of the DMM, and finally close the circuit with the probes to get the amps reading.

on 14500 the xp-g2 S2 is so much brighter than on Eneloop: the latest measurements confirm that d25a outputs *366lm* on 14500 whereas on Eneloop it's *146lm*, both measured 30.0s after activation on a fully charged quality cell. there is no brightness difference (worth mentioning) between xp-g2 R5 and xp-g2 S2. 

clearly, something needs a fix with your d25a sample. i'd clean all contact points, make sure with DMM that all test cells are fully charged and good quality (1.50V for Eneloop, 4.20V for 14500), and if the light is still rather dim, get a FREE replacement unit from your chosen dealer.


----------



## Fra881

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

how much room is there for a long 16340 in the D25C clicky?

I read the trustfire 16340 (flame) is a good battery, it is cheap but it's quite long I'm not sure if it fits..


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Fra881 said:


> how much room is there for a long 16340 in the D25C clicky?



The D25C has a fairly compact battery cavity, both in width and length. My longest protected 16340's at just over 36mm are too long to tighten heads all the way (*out of 3 diff D25C's of various build years), only engaging approx the first thread...actually most any battery much over 35mm is too long for this light...and can even be somewhat snug, requiring a little shaking to dislodge. Many quality protected 16340s of various chemistry are in the 34mm (+/- .5mm) and will work okay.

Frankly, with the driver on these lights effectively loosing medium with 3.7v 16340s, (even 3.2v LifePo4 chemistry), and the wide variance of the physical size of Li-ions, I find it better to utilize CR123a's mostly. They're inexpensive at around $1 and the light itself if very efficient thus run times are very good with primaries plus it retains all modes.


----------



## Fra881

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



cyclesport said:


> The D25C has a fairly compact battery cavity, both in width and length. My longest protected 16340's at just over 36mm are too long to tighten heads all the way (*out of 3 diff D25C's of various build years), only engaging approx the first thread...actually most any battery much over 35mm is too long for this light...and can even be somewhat snug, requiring a little shaking to dislodge. Many quality protected 16340s of various chemistry are in the 34mm (+/- .5mm) and will work okay.
> 
> Frankly, with the driver on these lights effectively loosing medium with 3.7v 16340s, (even 3.2v LifePo4 chemistry), and the wide variance of the physical size of Li-ions, I find it better to utilize CR123a's mostly. They're inexpensive at around $1 and the light itself if very efficient thus run times are very good with primaries plus it retains all modes.



ok, so 36mm don't fit, thanks 

only problem with cr123 is that turbo output lowers quite a bit..


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Fra881 said:


> only problem with cr123 is that turbo output lowers quite a bit..



If that's important to you, out of several I've personally tried, most AW and Eagletac brands (protected ICRs) generally run smaller at around 34mm in length.


----------



## ven

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I have the d25cvn and use Efest IMR16340 cells .........great so far


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Sorry if this has been covered already, but is there any difference between the d25a and the new d25a ti? Other than the titanium of course, specifically with the brightest neutral leds in each? Also how does the size compare to a quark as? Would anyone be able to take a side by side photo?


----------



## reppans

luisdent said:


> Also how does the size compare to a quark as? Would anyone be able to take a side by side photo?


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

You are awesome!

it almost looks like it's the diameter of the middle of the quark. Does it seem smaller in actual use? Lighter? Or are the differences pretty small? I am looking to downsize, but the aaa lights just aren't at the same level with runtimes. It's either this or something like the maratac aaa. I love the quark and really just want a smaller version of it. But i don't want to spend a lot for something that ends up feeling essentially the same for all around use.

Could i ask your opinion? And maybe bug you for a diameter comparison photo and side by side vertical?


----------



## reppans

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



luisdent said:


> You are awesome!
> 
> it almost looks like it's the diameter of the middle of the quark. Does it seem smaller in actual use? Lighter? Or are the differences pretty small? I am looking to downsize, but the aaa lights just aren't at the same level with runtimes. It's either this or something like the maratac aaa. I love the quark and really just want a smaller version of it. But i don't want to spend a lot for something that ends up feeling essentially the same for all around use.
> 
> Could i ask your opinion? And maybe bug you for a diameter comparison photo and side by side vertical?








Side-by-side on top of a quarter . Yes the ET tube is slightly narrower than the 47s tube - with one eye, you can just barely see both sides of the Q tube with D right in front of it, not vice versa. Yes the D25 is noticeably smaller, not noticeably lighter though. If you want a downsized Quark, the D25 is the closest I've found. 

All that said, the Quark is the better light (at least for me) and I use it much more - the D25A is probably 2nd though, and I have some decent choices in the 1AA/sub-lumen niche clicky .


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



reppans said:


> Side-by-side on top of a quarter . Yes the ET tube is slightly narrower than the 47s tube - with one eye, you can just barely see both sides of the Q tube with D right in front of it, not vice versa. Yes the D25 is noticeably smaller, not noticeably lighter though. If you want a downsized Quark, the D25 is the closest I've found.
> 
> All that said, the Quark is the better light (at least for me) and I use it much more - the D25A is probably 2nd though, and I have some decent choices in the 1AA/sub-lumen niche clicky .



You are DOUBLE AWESOME! 

Yeah. I love my quark aa. I think it's one of the best lights ever made. I searched a while to find it too. I don't plan on replacing it (unless something did everything it did in a smaller package). I'm just looking for something smaller. I want to pocket carry the quark, but it's a bit bulky for that for me personally. I also don't like the clip or shape for that function. They sell a deep carry clip, but I might as well put the money for that towards a smaller light in general.

The maratac seems like one of the best aaa lights and would be ultra portable. However, this light seems to do everything better than the maratac while not being "that" much bigger (i think) but enough smaller than the quark that I assume it would pocket carry better? Can you throw a maratac aaa in that pic? haha. or similar form factor aaa? (olight, etc.).


----------



## reppans

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

No Martacs but this is an old pick of my AAA keychain light (and I think - THE best ) - they're all about the same size. I wouldn't keychain a AA light.... and I also wouldn't pocket clip carry a 1xAAA light.


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



reppans said:


> No Martacs but this is an old pick of my AAA keychain light (and I think - THE best ) - they're all about the same size. I wouldn't keychain a AA light.... and I also wouldn't pocket clip carry a 1xAAA light.



What do you not like about the aaa for pocket carry? Just curious? I'm so close to pulling the trigger on a d25a standard or ti neutral....


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

D25A Ti Neutral. Done.  Bought.

You can never have too many lights right? I just had to try this one.


----------



## reppans

luisdent said:


> What do you not like about the aaa for pocket carry? Just curious? I'm so close to pulling the trigger on a d25a standard or ti neutral....



That AAA is always on me 100% (keychain), and my AA (14500) primary light 90% (clipped to a pocket) - Dunno, AA size feels more like a proper tool, and I like the added performance and features like: clicky, moonlight mode, 350+ lms, runtime, momentary max (from any lower mode in use), tint choices, etc. Same thing as having a Spyderco Ladybug on my keychain and a Benchmade folder clipped to my pocket .

Congrats on the new light.... hope you enjoy it.


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Can't wait to try it.


----------



## ven

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Got my d25a ti off vinh today love it




D25a on left and D25cvn De-dome on right


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Mine is in the mail today!  I was going to get the ti version, but I actually like the black look better. The folks over at eagletec-usa grabbed a gitd button from a refurbished ti model and threw it on the black version for me.  So I saved $20 and have a sweet combo.


----------



## Glofindel

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Nice! that's great service.
I bought a D25C in CW black aluminium because I already had a NW in Ti version but the seller sent Ti in CW to me. Not that I complaint but surprise when there is no Ti version listed on the website.


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Just got my light! Posted it on my aaa search thread I made, but I'll repost here:

Wow-ee-wow-wow! This thing is awesome! First, it's smaller than I expected, even after seeing photos. It is actually the size I expected a AAA light like the maratac to be. That means the maratac must be really tiny. I could see that being more of a keychain light now, and possibly too small for some to pocket carry. Not that it wouldn't work well, but as a preference.

Personally, this is what I was looking for exactly. SO happy how this turned out. I'll have to post a review after some use. Already, it's smaller, sleeker and brighter than my quark AA while having similar modes. The glow boot looks awesome. I didn't expect it to glow so bright, although I'm not sure how long it would last, or how likely it is to be useful if you keep it in a bag and pull it out at night...

The pocket clip is very similar to the quark, which I love, but is a deep riding clip, which is even better than the stock quark AA clip. A deep clip is available for the quark AA, but it doesn't look as sleek.

Anyway, photos and review to come!


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Update... This isn't a complate (yet)  haha. But has anyone else noticed the reflector in their neutral led model is bluish-purplish tinted?

I know it's the reflector, because if I look at it with the light turned off using another light source the reflector has coloration. Using the same light source my quark is neutral in color (the reflector).

I noticed this, because my new d25a seems to be very neutral in the light itself, almost perfectly matching my quark neutral, but when shining it on anything the light around the hotspot is tinted bluish-purple, whereas the quark is smooth and neutral all the way around. On another note, the shape of the light has some slight squarish-ness to it as well, but this is only really noticeable when close to something.

Just curious if this is normal or not. 

UPDATE: This is really not as bad as I thought. I was comparing them at the desk, shining them on the well oh med/high modes. I went in the bathroom with both and shut the lights off. That's when you know you're a flashoholic, right?  In real use, not only do I find the beams comparable, the eagletec might actually bit a tad more neutral in color. At least to my eyes. I always thought the quark was very very neutral, especially compared to other lights, but the eagletec seems a bit warmer. Not that is is a warm tint, but it almost makes the quark seem just a teensy eensy bit more blue. I'm talking a few percent maybe. Both are really awesome neutral lights.

Regarding the bluish tint I was talking about, I'm not sure if it's the reflector or the glass. With no lights on it moving it around, there is clearly a coating on the glass. It is almost the exact color I was referring to. Perhaps as you reach the edge of the light diffusion the coating it very subtly affecting the light. I'm not sure. But in the bathroom comparing them there was no visual difference. In fact, the quark almost had a similar effect. In real use, absolutely no issue. I think I'm just nit-picking, because I'm super particular. haha.

Overall, I'm extremely happy. If this thing has similar runtimes (I plan on testing them) I might not need the quark anymore.  But I'm not going to jump to any conclusions. The quark has been an outstanding light, and you can never have too many, right?


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



luisdent said:


> Regarding the bluish tint I was talking about, I'm not sure if it's the reflector or the glass.


It's likely the glass lens - that is the anti-glare coating you are seeing. It shouldn't have much of an effect on the overall beam tint.


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

No, it really doesn't. Only under real scrutiny. And if it's like binoculars and the like I assume it only helps to allow more light transmission, so that's a good thing.


----------



## Southernlight

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

The D25C is one light that is very similar in form to the Muyshondt Nautilus. One is a clicky the other a twisty of course but the external size and build is similar.
Is there anything else closer to the Nautilus?


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I just wish they would ditch the horrible interface with all the blinky modes (like, 1,000 of them) right in line with the regular modes after two times around. I think I'd buy another one if they at least gave us an option without blinky modes unless you really want them (hidden).


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Wierd, i haven't had any issue with this at all. When would you need to cycle three times through every mode? Just curious. Even if you do, just wait a few seconds and start over? I like the modes personally. I like the double "sets" of brightnesses. Unless you want faster access to the blinky modes? But i would think they are less common modes and therefore would prefer two loops of brightness modes in case you accidentally skip the brightness you want... Just sone thoughts. Is there something you don't like specifically? Or something you want it to do specifically?


----------



## reppans

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Just use a short press for brighter, and long press (>0.5 sec) for dimmer, and you'll never hit the blinkies no matter how many cycles - D25s have an extremely short reset time, wish my other lights were like that.


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



reppans said:


> Just use a short press for brighter, and long press (>0.5 sec) for dimmer, and you'll never hit the blinkies no matter how many cycles - D25s have an extremely short reset time, wish my other lights were like that.


man, that's awesome! I didn't know you could gow backwards in mode like that.


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Dur, i just realized that is simply turning the light off and starting over.  but effectively it's like going backwards if you're in med mode.


----------



## reppans

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



luisdent said:


> Dur, i just realized that is simply turning the light off and starting over.  but effectively it's like going backwards if you're in med mode.



Yeah, it just uses the "off" short reset back to low, but it's intuitive, avoids the blinkies, reduces clicky wear & tear, and I don't mind UI delays going dimmer - hate UI delays going brighter though (ie, multi-mode foward clickies, ZL UI).


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Agree.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I EDC'd it for quite a few months (D25LC2). 

I knew exactly how to get it to go back from the blinky modes. I just got sick of the extra hassle. I actually used the thing a lot, not sure how many people use them on a daily basis, all the time. It's a bad design decision, to me. At least give us an option.. Oh well, I just won't buy one till they change it or give an option to change it. No big deal to me.


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> I EDC'd it for quite a few months (D25LC2).
> 
> I knew exactly how to get it to go back from the blinky modes. I just got sick of the extra hassle. I actually used the thing a lot, not sure how many people use them on a daily basis, all the time. It's a bad design decision, to me. At least give us an option.. Oh well, I just won't buy one till they change it or give an option to change it. No big deal to me.




Can you describe the issue you had?


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



luisdent said:


> Can you describe the issue you had?



Just when you go through the interface, after two times going it through it, it then goes to all the blinky an SOS, and beacon modes, and there's a lot of them. Then if you want to avoid that, you have to turn the light off for 0.5 seconds or something like that. It's just a hassle. I got tired of it, and put the thing in a drawer.


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> Just when you go through the interface, after two times going it through it, it then goes to all the blinky an SOS, and beacon modes, and there's a lot of them. Then if you want to avoid that, you have to turn the light off for 0.5 seconds or something like that. It's just a hassle. I got tired of it, and put the thing in a drawer.



Ok


----------



## ven

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I am the opposite with the UI ,admittedly it's not perfect but find pretty good.I never go through the modes twice and it has to be quickly to get to the disco zone.As long as you wait 1/2 second on any mode I find it will resort back to 2 quick full through the modes for disco.I actually found it user unfriendly for disco which suits my needs as it's not something I need/want regular.


Most of the time it's just turbo,if want low I loosen head then can select level.

The not perfect bit for me is the head loosen bit...that's its but it far from a deal breaker personally.

The UI that does do my head in is the 5 mode no memory ....arggggghhh I can feel the pain just thinking about it :laughing: luckily it's mainly on cheaper end lights.

Out of all the UI ,fenix with the 2 button(one power,one mode) and nitecore on the tm15 for example are my fav.The ea4 and ea8 come close,but find it takes a little use with the button sensitivity side,other than that great.....p25 is good but you have to like side switch too,but user friendly .

Surprisingly convoy I find do quite good even though you have to cycle,but has memory so no turning off on a mode to turn on later at level ? as I forgot where I left off from :laughing:

Guess just a case of what suits /works ,that's all that matters Having many brands,different UI makes it a challenge at times ...... :laughing:


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Can you buy the 2xAA body to use with the head of the 1xAA? Like the quark?


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



> *and it has to be quickly to get to the disco zone*.*As long as you wait 1/2 second on any mode I find it will resort back to 2 quick full through the modes for disco.*



No that's not how it works. It goes to "disco zone" no matter what if you go two times though. *You have to turn it OFF for 0.7 seconds* (or something like, could be 0.6 sec.) to reset the interface so it doesn't go to blinky modes.

If it was like you say, just pause for a a second, it would be fine. It doesn;t though.. It goes to blinky modes after to times around no matter what unless you turn it off.

Maybe you have a special light or something.. Mine isn't like that.


----------



## reppans

BWX said:


> No that's not how it works. It goes to "disco zone" no matter what if you go two times though. *You have to turn it OFF for 0.7 seconds* (or something like, could be 0.6 sec.) to reset the interface so it doesn't go to blinky modes.
> 
> If it was like you say, just pause for a a second, it would be fine. It doesn;t though.. It goes to blinky modes after to times around no matter what unless you turn it off.
> 
> Maybe you have a special light or something.. Mine isn't like that.



A short half press cycles the modes forward L > H, a long half press (> 0.5 secs) qualifies as "off" and takes you back to L and resets the six-press-cycle to the blinkies... that is the "pause." This was discussed above, you do not need to "click" the light off. If a long half press when you want dimmer is too much to ask, then this UI is not for you - you probably would also hate any electronic clicky UI as well as most utilize the press-and-hold somewhere in its UI.


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



reppans said:


> A short half press cycles the modes forward L > H, a long half press (> 0.5 secs) qualifies as "off" and takes you back to L and resets the six-press-cycle to the blinkies... that is the "pause." This was discussed above, you do not need to "click" the light off. If a long half press when you want dimmer is too much to ask, then this UI is not for you - you probably would also hate any electronic clicky UI as well as most utilize the press-and-hold somewhere in its UI.



Yes, for me i click to turn it on. Then i press the button half way to go l>m>h>l>m>h>strobes

if i go l>m and then press the button half way for 1 second it goes back to low and fully starts over...


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



reppans said:


> A short half press cycles the modes forward L > H, a long half press (> 0.5 secs) qualifies as "off" and takes you back to L and resets the six-press-cycle to the blinkies... that is the "pause." This was discussed above, you do not need to "click" the light off. If a long half press when you want dimmer is too much to ask, then this UI is not for you - you probably would also hate any electronic clicky UI as well as most utilize the press-and-hold somewhere in its UI.



Yeah I know. If you look I am probably the first to mention that in this thread (I think). That is the whole problem though. You should have infinite rounds of the interface w/o blinky modes. That's what I was talking about. The post you quoted last of mine, I was explaining that you didn't just "pause", you had to turn the light off. Doesn't matter if it is clicked or half clicked. That wasn't the point of the post.
Anyways.....


----------



## reppans

BWX said:


> Yeah I know. If you look I am probably the first to mention that in this thread (I think). That is the whole problem though. You should have infinite rounds of the interface w/o blinky modes. That's what I was talking about. The post you quoted last of mine, I was explaining that you didn't just "pause", you had to turn the light off. Doesn't matter if it is clicked or half clicked. That wasn't the point of the post.
> Anyways.....



I do understand the frustration with the blinkies, what this light is lacking is a blinkie "reset time" like the Quark Minis and Preons - you have cycle 6 modes in 3 secs, if you take any longer, it resets and starts as if from off. Not the D25s, it remembers as long as the light is on. For me this also would have been a huge problem if not for that short ~0.5 sec off-reset time - short enough for a long half press. My other lights have over 2 secs (most ~4 secs) and THAT often drives me nuts.... makes me really appreciate the D25A UI since I tend to alternately use the two lowest modes most often. 

Anyways, no UI is perfect, and I appreciate most that I've come across - the only one that really makes no sense to me is a multimode with forward clicky as the only input - quite common on US made lights though.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

A great UI for me would be.. Moonlight, low, med, high, turbo, all on head TIGHTENED..

Then ALL blinky modes, head loosened- (or side switch pressed, or whatever)


Why, oh, why, is that so hard?

I dunno.


----------



## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> A great UI for me would be.. Moonlight, low, med, high, turbo, all on head TIGHTENED..
> 
> Then ALL blinky modes, head loosened- (or side switch pressed, or whatever)
> 
> 
> Why, oh, why, is that so hard?
> 
> I dunno.



The 6 seconds could be annoying if you're cycling modes with full clicks, but that seems unnecessary when half clicks are faster and easier in my opinion.

i completly agree about the blinkies on the secondary group. I never understood that.


----------



## Glofindel

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> A great UI for me would be.. Moonlight, low, med, high, turbo, all on head TIGHTENED..
> 
> Then ALL blinky modes, head loosened- (or side switch pressed, or whatever)
> 
> 
> Why, oh, why, is that so hard?
> 
> I dunno.



that would be an awesome UI. I really like it. Separate all blinky modes.


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Maybe a bunch of us could all ask nicely at the same time on twitter or something? 

LOL.. Yeah.. they probably wouldn't change. Some engineer is probably too proud to change his "brilliant interface".. or something.. who knows.
I bet a lot of people would like that interface setup I mentioned in a rear-clicky like the D25LC2, etc.. I know I would.

Do companies patent interface layouts or something? I wonder if there is some company that has already patented an interface like I mentioned above? Maybe that's why they don't do what seems like the obvious better thing?


----------



## 18650

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



BWX said:


> A great UI for me would be.. Moonlight, low, med, high, turbo, all on head TIGHTENED.. Then ALL blinky modes, head loosened- (or side switch pressed, or whatever) Why, oh, why, is that so hard? I dunno.


 But but if there's no instant turbo it wouldn't be tactical??


----------



## BWX

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



18650 said:


> But but if there's no instant turbo it wouldn't be tactical??



If it had a memory, and you left it on in turbo, it would at least have an instant turbo option I guess.


----------



## leon2245

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Couple of random questions for anyone knowledgeable about this d25 lineup:

How does the D25LC2 behave if you leave it's clicky clicked "on", and loosen the head until it turns off, then tighten it back down again? Come right back on without having to click again, and if so at what level?

Also, does the D25LC2 head on the D25LC2-mini's twisty body function, in any capacity?


----------



## Lite_me

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



leon2245 said:


> Couple of random questions for anyone knowledgeable about this d25 lineup:
> 
> *How does the D25LC2 behave if you leave it's clicky clicked "on", and loosen the head until it turns off, then tighten it back down again? Come right back on without having to click again, and if so at what level?*
> 
> Also, does the D25LC2 head on the D25LC2-mini's twisty body function, in any capacity?


On my D25LC2 / 18650 battery combination, the light will not go off until the head runs out of threads. Remaking repeated contact cycles through the modes. 

I don't know the answer to your second question.


----------



## defloyd77

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I don't know if the Clicky model heads have the same threading as the Mini heads, but if one could use the Clicky head on the Mini body, you would only have the turbo and strobe modes since the l/m/h grouping requires the head to be loosened and unless the D25LC2 is different than the D25A and D25A2, they use non anodised threads to make contact with the head loose.


----------



## bhonder

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Spring is here and it's time for our favorite tenant, Mr. Badger, to be caught in picture again. This is an old picture but now we are heavily armed with a d25lc2, so newer and better photos are to come.


----------



## markr6

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

After wanting a D25A or D25C2 for a long time now, I finally pulled the trigger. I'll have a D25LC2 w/ Nicha 219 later this week!!! The Nichia 219 really did it for me, and right at $50 shipped. Again, another light I don't need at all, but really excited to give it a try.


----------



## markr6

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

^^ OK I tried some CR123s in my light and it worked. So just to test the Eagletac battery, I put a small ball of foil on the + end to act as a temporary button top. It worked! So when I got home I tried my green button top NCR18650B from Fasttech and it worked as well. An Eagletac battery doesnt work in their own light, nice.
*
The Nichia 219A SW45 B11 IS AMAZING!!!!*

I wish this one had the moonlight mode. The low mode is a joke like most Fenix lights I've had. Easily lights up my basement wall 25' away. Outside, I can just reach a shrub 50' away. Come on! This is a HUGE deal-breaker as far as a general EDC goes, but I'm keeping this because the tint is perfect and everything else seems to pretty nice.

Quality wise, I'm not real familiar with EagleTacs. I purchased my first a few months ago but returned it immediately due to a horrible tint. After using this for a while, I can tell it feels much cheaper than my Fenix PD32UE.

SC600W II is still unbeatable IMO 

Overall, perfect tint + small size + decent UI = it's a keeper.


----------



## Lithium466

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I think it is Nichia 219B (so B220 and not B11) in the Ti 2014 edition, correct?
Marking on the box say B11 so Nichia 219A, but led looks like 219B.


----------



## markr6

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Lithium466 said:


> I think it is Nichia 219B (so B220 and not B11) in the Ti 2014 edition, correct?
> Marking on the box say B11 so Nichia 219A, but led looks like 219B.



Goinggear site said 219A SW45 B1 so I'm going by that. I remember seeing a Nichia sticker on the box, but don't recall it giving any specific numbers (but I could be wrong - don't have it in front of me at the moment)


----------



## tjswarbrick

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



markr6 said:


> ^^ *The Nichia 219A SW45 B11 IS AMAZING!!!!*
> 
> I wish this one had the moonlight mode. The low mode is a joke like most Fenix lights I've had. Easily lights up my basement wall 25' away. Outside, I can just reach a shrub 50' away. Come on! This is a HUGE deal-breaker as far as a general EDC goes, but I'm keeping this because the tint is perfect and everything else seems to pretty nice.
> 
> Overall, perfect tint + small size + decent UI = it's a keeper.



Starting On with loose head, cycling tight/loose 3 times doesn't get you into moonlight-on mode?
Checking their website, I can't see where choosing the Hi-CRI model would deactivate this function.
I only have 2 Eagletac's but they're some of the best-built, easiest to use lights I've tried.
I keep my 1st-gen Ti D25C Clicky (neutral XM-L) in Moonlight because, you're right, low is just too much. Medium is a nice step up when I need to see something a little farther away from me. Then if I want High, I just tighten the head.
Moonlight is awesome.

*Sorry - Looks like you're using Li-Ion's, which do have a habit of taking away or boosting up the lower modes. I run primaries in mine.


----------



## tjswarbrick

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Double-Tap


----------



## markr6

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



tjswarbrick said:


> Starting On with loose head, cycling tight/loose 3 times doesn't get you into moonlight-on mode?
> Checking their website, I can't see where choosing the Hi-CRI model would deactivate this function.
> I only have 2 Eagletac's but they're some of the best-built, easiest to use lights I've tried.
> I keep my 1st-gen Ti D25C Clicky (neutral XM-L) in Moonlight because, you're right, low is just too much. Medium is a nice step up when I need to see something a little farther away from me. Then if I want High, I just tighten the head.
> Moonlight is awesome.
> 
> *Sorry - Looks like you're using Li-Ion's, which do have a habit of taking away or boosting up the lower modes. I run primaries in mine.



Even though I hate them, this may become my dediated CR123 light due to the moonlight mode. Ill try it tonight. Thanks


----------



## Mr. Tone

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Lithium466 said:


> I think it is Nichia 219B (so B220 and not B11) in the Ti 2014 edition, correct?
> Marking on the box say B11 so Nichia 219A, but led looks like 219B.



Here are a couple relevant posts I made on CPFMarketplace regarding this question. All the Eagletac Nichia 219 LED are the same. An Eagletac rep. confirmed that for me via email a while back.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...ia-219-XP-G2&p=4814418&viewfull=1#post4814418

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...ia-219-XP-G2&p=4814432&viewfull=1#post4814432


----------



## Lithium466

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Mine (from a new batch, direct from Eagletac) looks like a 219B:


----------



## reppans

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Lithium466 said:


> Mine (from a new batch, direct from Eagletac) looks like a 219B:



Heard the new 219B batch has a ~ 3 lumen moonlight, an ~ 8 lumen low.... can you comment if that's the case with yours?


----------



## Lithium466

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I only have CR123A to test for now, and the moonlight mode is under 1lm. To my eyes it is similar to D25A moonlight, I'd say 0,5lm as stated may be accurate. 

I'd say low is around 3lm, but I am not good at all to compare lm values.


----------



## reppans

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Oh sorry... Only heard the problem related to the recent batch of N219B D25As... Thought your pic above looked like an A


----------



## Lithium466

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I'll try with RCR soon 

(it's a D25C Ti 2014)


----------



## recDNA

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Anybody know if it is safe to use a cr123 primary in the 2 amp version of the d25c?


----------



## Lithium466

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

What, where? I want one. There is a 2A version of D25C? I thought they were reserved to 18650 versions?

2A is on the high side for CR123A, it is ok for short bursts, but it won't last long and it will heat quickly. Use high quality batteries.


----------



## wingspar

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

You mention in your review that "According to Eagletac, mode memory is not available on the D25A clicky model". I’m considering this light, but I do not like last memory mode lights. Have you found out since, or does anyone know if the D25A has the option to turn memory mode off?


----------



## Lithium466

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

There's no memory on D25A.


----------



## wingspar

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thank you. I’ve been watching videos on this light and reading reviews, but most do not cover the D25A, but cover the rest of the D series lights and give no information about last mode memory on the D25A cause they don’t know since they didn’t have that light. The EagleTac site is no help here. Some of the D Series lights do have last mode memory as shown in videos, but have a feature that lets you turn it off, but the EagleTac site never mentions last mode memory at all on those lights, but just can’t find info on that about the D25A. Sounds like the D25A may be in my collection very soon.


----------



## R_G_B

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I can add a little information about the D25A clicky (i.e. the single-AA version with click-switch control in the end-cap). It seems to have some important design differences from the two-AA version (e.g. a non-reversible barrel, no memory of last-used setting). 

As a light-weight hiker, I am always looking to save a gram. So I really like: 
(1) Low weight (22 grams after removal of the clip); 
(2) Knurled barrel (which grips firmly in my home-made head strap); 
(3) Floody beam from the XM-L2 U2 LED (good for headtorch use, not for long spotlight throw); 
(4) High efficiency (specified with unstated battery type as 150+ hours in moon mode - which at 1 lumen is just useful, or I guess nearly 50 hours in non-moon low mode - which at 4 lumens is a good compromise for many tasks). Also current regulation and compatibility with diverse AA-size battery types; 
(5) One-hand operation via a rear mechanical switch (easy to find, even on my head, and no parasitic drain when clicked off);
(6) It tail-stands just fine (fit a latex-glove little finger to the front for candle-mode); 
(7) The interface starts in low mode then ramps up and cycles through various strobe - flash - SOS modes on subsequent half-clicks (with a front-twist for turbo / strobe cycle). For others wondering, ‘beacon’ is a very slow flash. 

For me, torches with side or twisty switches defy quick operation on my head. Those which start bright have destroyed my night vision before I can work out their minimum useful setting - so they get used brighter with a big hit on battery life (meaning a weight penalty for more carried batteries). If I ever need to frighten the bejeezus out of something with a 1AA torch flash (??), I reckon I can remember to screw it into turbo mode first! For me, a torch does not need a memory (provided it starts at low intensity), and I don't want parasitic battery drain between hikes.

It was easy to remove the clip to save a few grams, using a hex-tip screwdriver. A 1.5 mm tip was fine if used carefully (most people are not going to order, then wait for, a custom 1.55 mm tip). 

Possible concerns for other users are: 
(1) No battery lock-out function. You can not simply unscrew the tail or front cap slightly to ensure that the torch can not accidentally be clicked on, thereby flattening the battery while packed. You can not improvise lock-out with teflon tape or the like - the circuit path is not arranged that way. But the tail switch is recessed enough that some care when packing will minimise the risk. Or in desperation you could reverse the battery or fit something like a small chair-leg tip over the switch - I have not bothered. 
(2) The tail cap has a flimsy thread and o-ring, below which are a fall-out washer and switch mechanism before you can access the battery. I found this almost impossible to replace without damage once a battery was installed, even without the pocket clip. The solution is never to remove the tail cap. Instead, remove the front section (which has a better design of electronics, thread and o-ring to avoid damage with careful use). This is in defiance of the manual text on battery replacement - but it matches one of the illustrations. Otherwise the torch is very robust for the weight. By the way, that rear (steel) washer is important to centre the switch and avoid closing the circuit without passing through the switch. So if you want to save a few milligrams by swapping it for something lighter you need carefully to match the dimensions. 
(3) No Morse-signal mode (but torches that include this usually bury it so deep in the interface I could never find it in a hurry, and I have forgotten most of the Morse code - so I am satisfied with the pre-programed SOS).
(4) Very ‘cool white’ colour rendition overall, with some yellow rings when used close-up at higher settings, but you can choose a slightly less efficient LED for a ‘warmer’ colour or a different beam profile, as mentioned on the Eagletac website.


----------



## R_G_B

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Perhaps I should clarify that the D25A clicky does remember whether you have selected moon mode (where the first few half-clicks after turning the torch on deliver about 1 - 11 - 121 lumens) or non-moon mode (for about 4 - 20 - 121 lumens). It remembers this moon /non-moon setting (toggled by three quick consecutive cycles through turbo mode) without ongoing power consumption - e.g. without any battery in the torch.


----------



## Colinsdad

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Just to add my two cents to this discussion, I just purchased a brandy-new D25C off EBay for 45$. It was listed as the "upgraded 2013 model" with the U2 emitter.

I was secretly hoping it was the DD model, as I have a surplus of IMRs around. I threw one in, and, lo and behold, it was regulated....it has all the modes as listed. Even though this is "only" 450 lumens, it's more than enough for my tactical EDC needs. I typically carry a 4sevens mini CR2 with an RCR CR2 and warm emitter. Great light to be sure, but, when I'm carrying my CCW, the LAST thing I need is to be fumbling around with a twisty switch. Great little light....kudos to Eric (aka Selfbuilt) for a great review....I needed to replace my Nitecore SRT3 as my tactical EDC, and, based on this review, I tracked down this light. And , at 45$ shipped, I'm very satisfied!!


----------



## GordoJones88

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I still sometimes EDC my original D25C 16340 Direct Drive model.
It's not always very useful.
You get either 10 lumens or 750 lumens.
Stupid bright for such a tiny little light.


----------



## Colinsdad

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I was out chasing a rather large raccoon out of the yard a few minutes ago, and this light with an IMR was more than adequate, even with a "paltry" 450 lumens....Definitely a worthwhile purchase! In fact, this is the first light I've purchased in just about a year...looks like the "lumen bug" has hit again.


----------



## mcnair55

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



wingspar said:


> Thank you. I’ve been watching videos on this light and reading reviews, but most do not cover the D25A, but cover the rest of the D series lights and give no information about last mode memory on the D25A cause they don’t know since they didn’t have that light. The EagleTac site is no help here. Some of the D Series lights do have last mode memory as shown in videos, but have a feature that lets you turn it off, but the EagleTac site never mentions last mode memory at all on those lights, but just can’t find info on that about the D25A. Sounds like the D25A may be in my collection very soon.



You can find plenty of info on the D25A and the fact it does not have last mode memory simply by surfing the net,it took me no more than a couple of minutes and i watched a couple of very informative videos.


----------



## blackFFM

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



Colinsdad said:


> Just to add my two cents to this discussion, I just purchased a brandy-new D25C off EBay for 45$. It was listed as the "upgraded 2013 model" with the U2 emitter.
> 
> I was secretly hoping it was the DD model, as I have a surplus of IMRs around. I threw one in, and, lo and behold, it was regulated....it has all the modes as listed. Even though this is "only" 450 lumens, it's more than enough for my tactical EDC needs. I typically carry a 4sevens mini CR2 with an RCR CR2 and warm emitter. Great light to be sure, but, when I'm carrying my CCW, the LAST thing I need is to be fumbling around with a twisty switch. Great little light....kudos to Eric (aka Selfbuilt) for a great review....I needed to replace my Nitecore SRT3 as my tactical EDC, and, based on this review, I tracked down this light. And , at 45$ shipped, I'm very satisfied!!




IMHO I can't tell that there is a big difference in output between my new and old D25. Direct driven turbo mode makes no sense for longer use. Light gets super hot after 1 minute.


----------



## Colinsdad

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

BlackFFM- I concur completely! In fact, I was rather relived to hear they had updated the board for full Li Ion support....nothing worse than having a related light go DD on you if you're not expecting it. Perfect case in point: 

years ago the big pocket rocket was the Lumapower VX Ultra with the SST-50 emitter. Ricky at LP had to add a note with the lights that, in single RCR 16340 configuration, the operator MUST USE an IMR cell because of the ridiculous current draw. After about 5 minutes, you could literally cook things on the head/lens. I believe the run time on high was tested at 15 minutes....all that for an astonishing 450 lumens. Lol!
P.s. I still have that light....still one of my favorites....in 18650 mode, however.


----------



## Martin L

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

This serie are intresting indeed and I am close to get one of these beauties. But first...
If this has been mentioned in earlier posts, my apoligizes... .  My questions only regards the D25A 2014 (Nichia) version . I try to be clear about that because sometimes the model is not mentioned which leaves me a little bit confused as the models does not share all functionalities :huh:. All the lumens are ANSI figures taken from the ET site.

Question no 1. Can you reset the cycle by a long press in the head loose mode? An example; You turn it on (loose head), allways starting in moon or low mode depending on programing, make two light presses which leaves you in medium mode (7 or 14 lumens depending on programing). Now you have two choices to get back to moon or low without higher the output. Either you click it to turn it off or you make a long light press (0,5-0,7 second) to turn back to moon or low which also resets the memory. Correct? Then you can start over and ramp up again?

Question no 2. You can pre select either turbo (88 lumens) (head tight) or 0,5ish or 3-ish lumens (head loose) depending on programing. Correct?

Question no 3. Let's say you are in loose head mode on the medium setting (7 or 14 lumens depending on programing) and want to look at something a little bit futher down the road, you only need to turn the head tight which get you to the turbo mode (88 lumens), when turning back (head loose) you will get to the lowest setting (0,5 or 3 lumens depening on programing) and NOT to the medium setting again. To go back to medium mode you need to light press one time to get back to medium. Correct?

If my assumptions are correct this light has quite a descent UI, don´t you think :thumbsup:. The down side is that it´s seems quite hard to operate it with one hand by turning the head loose/tight and press the rear clicky...

Ooops one more...Question no 4. Can you really rely on the ET site regarding the output? Do you get 0,5 / 7 / 55 on moon loose head and 3 / 14 / 55 on regular loose head. Do you really get 88 lumens in turbo mode the first 200 seconds with tight head? Can you tell the difference by the eye between high and turbo?

I will only use Eneloops.

Thanks in advance my friends 
Martin


----------



## Colinsdad

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Martin, 
Sorry I can't help with your query as I don't own the nichia model. But I do agree this light has a great UI!


----------



## reppans

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I own the D25A N219 Ti and several '12 XMLs and all your points are correct except this: 



Martin L said:


> .... An example; You turn it on (loose head), allways starting in moon or low mode depending on programing, *make two light presses *which leaves you in medium mode (7 or 14 lumens depending on programing).



One press takes you medium 

I use a light box, and calibrate to ti-force's lumen scale (a reviewer that claims ANSI accuracy - and I calibrate to 240 lms at stepdown for a QP2A-X) and find my D25As spot on (well certainly within my lightbox's margin of error). This scale matches most of my AA/sub-lumen light collection but you should note that this scale is significantly different that Selfbuilt's, as seen above. The runtime specs are also very honest. 

The one important note is that moonlight mode is not well regulated on the D25As. It will put out a 0.5 lms on a 1.5v+ cell (new Alk or L91), but moonlight falls off sharply on NiMhs, down to ~0.15 on my N219 on a middling <1.3v Eneloop, and may exhibit PWM-like "warble" depending upon example. Also, all lower modes shift up ~5x on high voltage cells like CRAAs and 14500s, so you loose moonlight.

Your loose/tight bezel swapping between medium and max is also correct, the light will default back to low, and if done quickly enough, will also reprogram the light. Reason this is important to me is that I happen to frequently use a loose/light UI as a single-handed momentary max from ON, which has enough finesse to signal a fast morse code, yet always returns to the previously used lower mode upon release. You don't need to use two hands - if you are close to the loose/tight bezel line, sideways pressure on the head, combine with a little thread play, will momentarily activate max. This happens to be my favorite UI "feature" of any light, but the D25A can't do it due to: threads too tight, default back to lowest mode, and reprogram after 3 quick flashes.


----------



## Martin L

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thank you for the answer Reppans. It seems that I had it right regarding the UI. However, the potential PWM on moon is not so 2014 from a brand like this. It´s sad if they have not solved the issue yet on the last batch... This behavior can perhaps be called the PWM lottery instead of the tint...oo:

It still seems to be one of the best AA lights out there that I have found regarding tint, beam, size, UI, clip. I really like that you can go back relatively quick to the lowest mode by a 0,5-ish s half press on the clicky. The competition are between the L3 L10/L10C, but this light has to be turned off for a second or two to reset or you need to go through the hole cycle to get back to a lower setting, this is not 2014 either.... Always start at firefly is not so practical, but I still want the option of firefly... Hmmm. I think the most practical start of a EDC, based on daily use, is to start on a low medium mode, like 5-15 lumens, but have the option to start at moon depending on situation. From off simply hold the on/off like the SWM D40A. I am dreaming, sorry. The D25A almost cut it :thumbsup:


----------



## reppans

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

It's still a great light and one I recommend - I run L91s (and I dislike primary cells in general) in mine for perfect moonlight regulation - I like "bright" moonlights, they are my most often used modes (as opposed to firefly and dimmer, only good for midnight bathroom runs) and this beam is one of my favorites, tint/profile. Most folks probably wouldn't even see the PWM effect, but I unfortunately taught myself what to look for, and now, cannot stop seeing it. Yup, love the short reset UI on this light - long press back to low, I think my Quark would perfect if it had the same.

If you like the D40A moonlight from off access have a look at the Olight S15 and new TN Neutron in Selfbuilt's review, I believe they are the same. TN's firefly is too dim for me, but at least it sounds like it isn't in the way.


----------



## markr6

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I was using my D25LC2 last night in the back yard and noticed it reached the treeline - the furthest point away without hitting neighboring homes. I measured it on Google maps just now and it's 115yards/105meters away. Pretty impressed since this was the Nichia 219 @ 420lm. Sure wish I had the XP-G2 for comparison which would probably blow that out of the water!


----------



## N8N

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Just got my D25C Ti 219 today...

1) I can't seem to get mode memory to work, not that I really care about such... I want it to start on moonlight all the time anyway.

2) The U-shaped cutout on the tail end for the split ring/lanyard is f'ing SHARP. Already cut the crap out of the back of my middle finger reaching into my pocket.

I'm assuming that this is solid TI and I should be able to knock a chamfer on it with a small diamond file?

Have not tried it with RCRs yet, gotta shuffle some cells around but seems to run great on a Surefire primary.

Edit: OK, now I'm a little disappointed. With an RCR, I seem to have moonlight, turbo, turbo, and turbo (on, click, click, and tighten.) Is this normal or should I contact EagleTac?

Edit2: remembered that I had LFPs for my Night Com UV... Tried one of those, better but modes not as distinct as on a primary. Why is it so hard to find lights that are fully compatible with li-ions?


----------



## Lithium466

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I think the light is pure Ti, not Ti alloy of some sort. Should be softer than Stainless steel unfortunately.
I notice the same thing on mine with RCR, so should be normal unfortunately.


----------



## bhonder

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Have you ever tried to cut the Batman's signal, stick it on the crystal, and project it with a magnifying lens?
I did it and it's fun. Try with a big lens and a d25lc2, when the clouds are low... 
It works also well with d25a2 because the beam is less flooded.

Have fun!


----------



## radiopej

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*







Hehe.


----------



## radiopej

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I found that some batteries I used didn't give me mode memory. Might be a sizing issue.


----------



## guthrie

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I now have a D25C2, thanks in part to this review and comments, so thank you to everyone who contributed.
I find the tint to be a little more yellow than I expected for a neutral LED, but it is a nice tint and I have no problems with it. Moreover the hot spot, although smaller than my 4sevens quark mini AA is complemented with more light outside it, so it is an easy to use torch that lights things up enough.


----------



## ScottJD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Hello, first time posting so be a little nice.
so I ended up buying some cheap Cree mini flashlights as gifts. I miss my stream light AA that I lost.
one thing I noticed was all the different ones I received, differences in LEDs and pills and so on. They were bought from multiple amazon stores. Anyway this got me on a LED light kick to read and learn, identify the different LEDs, tail cap loads, amd drivers amd so on........

Now I ran accross the D25A and I'm thinking this will be a good replacement for my stream light AA EDC I lost. But will all the obsessiveness in reading about this light I can't seem to locate conformation on a few questions I have. I plan in running 14500 protected cells. so my questions are:

Will I loose the different modes with a 14500 direct drive on the D25A clicky, or was this only for the older models? I've already located a place that has the 2014 versions in stock.

Or do I need to buy Ti to keep the mode changes? 
I know I'll loose the map mode, no big loss since I've never had it in the past. Not worried about stones either. But my understanding is the Li-Ion will push these up about %40 and I would still like to have at least low-meduim-high.

Now about the LED options. Taking I to consideration the direct drive or increase in lighting with the Li-ions I was considering on getting it with the Nichai LED. But I'm having a hard time envisioning the amount of difference. My old streamlight was a 70lm. The Cree mini 7W sipik clones I bought make that old stream light look like the difference between a star and the sun. And these were only $5 to $8 flashlights. Even with an alkaline AA these cheap lights are brighter then the one I lost. 
So I know the XM-L2 will be the most, with the Nichai being the least. I'm thinking with the extra battery power it wouldn't make a difference to me unless I had to move to a AA as a backup. But I also read that despite the nice look and color of the Nichai it also consumes more power. Is this correct? 

If the Nichai does take more then I may want to look for a XP-G2 as a happy middle.

Any comments and feedback is welcomed. 
And if anyone has compared a Cree mini to this flashlight is would be great to hear how they compare and the LED you are running in the D25A. The brightest mini I received had a nice brass looking reflector and the LED I think was a Cree Q5 XL-E type. The best was to describe it is the LED had a bass ring around it, I beleive maybe silicone filled that rind over the diod and then a little dome lens on top that was sealed to the metal ring. 
Because of this lens in the led I was able to make out the famouse Cree square and the wire leads, it consisted of three rectangles in the square with two of the corners cut out. 


Thank for for taking the time to read and help, a lot of great information on this site and great reviews,
Scott


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I will have to let someone else comment on the current D25A versions and 14500, as I don't have one.

As for emitter, go for the Nichia if the tint matters to you (and you like a more neutral white appearance). If you like the cool white tint on the other LEDs you've seen, stick with XP-G2 or XM-L2. XP-G2 is more "throwy" (focused hotspot), and the XM-L2 will have higher max output a wider hotspot with brighter spill.

There is not really a huge efficiency difference between them, but the XP-G2/XM-L2 do have a bit of an edge there. But tint and beam pattern matter a lot more in practice.

:welcome:


----------



## ScottJD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Thank for the reply. At this time battery life would be more important to me than the tint so I'll be looking for a XP-G2 or XM-L2. The XM-L2 is easier to find especialy when looking at the titaniums. 

Now I just need to decide if I need a Ti for the better driver and possable modes or if the clicky standard also has mode capability when running a Li-Ion.

I also have some good NiMh cells and read some posts about the D25 not being able to run on NiMh after using the Li-Ion. I see these post but they have no specifics as to what version or year he light was. 
Does anyone know if this driver damage on the standard D25A? 
Or were these D25A ones that were 2012 or 2013 models? (Before eagletac officialy supported Li-Ion batteries)
The above reasons are additional reasons to maybe get the Ti with the better driver.

On one hand I prefer the black over the TI that seems to scratch easier, but all want to get one that will last. Also I just read that the lens is not replaceable in the Ti (stated as one peice) and although I've only broke one EDC in years it's also a nice option to replace the lens if needed. 

I guess when it comes down to buying my next EDC it can be the little things between models like lens replacement and one big thing like stability of drivers with different battery chemistries. Of course the driver would take priority over the lens replacement.


----------



## ScottJD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I asked EagleTac directly regarding some of my questions and these are the answers I received with my communications.

On Tue, Jan 6, 2015 at 6:57 PM, Scott email address removed wrote:​Email Subject: 2014 D25A Clicky

Hello, I am interested in buying the d25A Clicky standard or maybe the titanium.​I've read some comments about people not being able to use NiMh batteries after running Li-Ion batteries. 
I'm not able to confirm if this issue was seen on the standard clicky or the titanium version. My understanding is the TI runs an upgraded driver that will also support most modes changed with the Li-Ion battery. 

Have you had any returns or warranty work for this issue? If so was this noticed on the Clicky standard or the Ti version. I may get the Ti for the updated driver hoping it won't experience this issue. 
Would an issue like this covered under warranty? 

Also I see that the Ti version does suport modes with Li-Ion not including the moon. Does the standard version also support the same modes when using a Li-ion or does it cut back to only 2 levels like the older ones? 

Thank you,
Scott

On Jan 9, 2015, at 12:31 AM, EagleTac Sales email address removed wrote:
Hi Scott,

The circuit on D25A clicky and D25A TI Clicky is the same. Both of them work with 14500 or AA battery.

We will handle warranty for the lights that work incorrectly.

Cheers,

Christina
Customer Service Specialist

On Sat, Jan 10, 2015 at 11:04 PM, Scott email address removed wrote:​H Christina,
Thank you for your reply. 
So since the circuit on D25A clicky and D25A TI Clicky is the same, can you confirm that the D25A also supports the circuit with dimmable output with li-ion?
This is the main feature I'm looking for but prefer the black over the titanium. 

Thank you,ScotT

On Jan 17, 2015, at 4:12 AM, EagleTac Sales email address removed wrote:

Hi Scott,​
Yes, the function is the same.

Cheers,

Christina
Customer Service Specialist


----------



## ScottJD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Hello selfbuilt,
I wanted to thank you for your great reviews and taking the time to answer some of my questions. 
After a lot of research I had narrowed down my decision to the EagleTac D25A, Olight S15R and the ZebraLight SC52W.
the Olight R version was for the improved switch to prevent accidental turn ons in the pocket, but I already have chargers.

As of now I think I'm going to order the SC52W. It seems to support all my wants and needs. Has voltage cutoff, does not use PWM and supports low moon modes even with Li-Ion batteries.

I did see EagleTac released some TAC 2015 models recently and kind of want to hold off to see what they do with the D25A in the 2015 line, but I'm guessing they won't improve on the moon modes with running Li-Ion since it's never been a strong point and lower modes still may be PWM driven. I'll wait a week or two and see if they release anything new.

But I'm %95 sure I'll end up with the SC52W


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



ScottJD said:


> But I'm %95 sure I'll end up with the SC52W


It's a nice light.


----------



## DigMe

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I recently purchased the D25C XM-L2 to replace a Thrunite Ti2 as my pocket light. What an upgrade! This post was very helpful in helping me decide on this light. Thanks for that. It's quite a value. 

*Question - What is the difference in output and performance of the XM-L2 vs. the XM-L originally reviewed?*

Also, a question for anyone who may have insight - I wanted the neutral version but Amazon only showed to have cool. I ordered it with Amazon gift cards. When it came there was a sticker on the box from Eagletac that said neutral. The label applied by the seller with a bar code said cool. It definitely seems less cool than other LEDs that I have. Anyone else order the cool from amazon that was labeled as neutral and have thoughts on this?


thanks, 
Brad


----------



## ScottJD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Hi Brad,
I'm new on the site and also to LED lights but spent a lot of time researching in the last month and hope my answers are correct, if not maybe someone can correct me. From what I know the XM-L2 is about %20 brighter and a little warmer than the XM-L.
Ive seen posts were vendors use up old boxes when releasing new versions for LED changes and that would explain the sticker making what light is really in the box. So what you recevied may be the Cool but inky the seller could really confirm this. You state that it "seems less cool" than other lights just may be because of the difference in LEDs and would also depend on what LED you comparing it to and if it's also a cree or another manufacture of LED. 
If your comparing it to a cree Q5 or older then the XM-L2 would be warmer but still considered the "Cool" LED for this years offerings that you had to choose from. 

I hope some of this makes sense and was able to help.


----------



## brightsteve

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Just got what i believe to be a 2014 D25C Ti, with nitecore CR123A I appear to get everything, low med high x2 disco modes, memory and moonlight. Mode 1 turbo dims after 200secs ish. With AW's RCR's no mode 1 :-(. Ordered and waiting for some Nitecore RCRs to hopefully get full functionality.

Steve


----------



## Chicken Drumstick

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



brightsteve said:


> Just got what i believe to be a 2014 D25C Ti, with nitecore CR123A I appear to get everything, low med high x2 disco modes, memory and moonlight. Mode 1 turbo dims after 200secs ish. With AW's RCR's no mode 1 :-(. Ordered and waiting for some Nitecore RCRs to hopefully get full functionality.
> 
> Steve


Have you thought of speaking to the place you purchased it from, or even EagleTac directly?


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



brightsteve said:


> Just got what i believe to be a 2014 D25C Ti, with nitecore CR123A I appear to get everything, low med high x2 disco modes, memory and moonlight. Mode 1 turbo dims after 200secs ish. With AW's RCR's no mode 1 :-(. Ordered and waiting for some Nitecore RCRs to hopefully get full functionality.
> 
> Steve



Sadly, you'll essentially loose medium (Moolight/Low-Turbo-Turbo X2-and normal flashing modes) using *any* Li-ion, whether 3.7v or 3.2v. EagleTac's D25c Ti, whether a 2012, 13, or 14 model only retains a _true medium_ with 3v primaries.


----------



## brightsteve

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Not sure why I'm losing turbo and strobe with AWs, too long? Although they're under the max dimensions


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



brightsteve said:


> Not sure why I'm losing turbo and strobe with AWs, too long? Although they're under the max dimensions



Not sure about that...could be a battery fit issue? Of the roughly 6 various iterations of the D25C I've had, all modes are retained with any 16340 Li-ion brand or chemistry, _except medium_ *(you get two turbo modes instead).


----------



## brightsteve

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Ok, I'm a bit confused. RCR123's I've seen 3v and 3.7v. The D25c specs says operating voltage upto 3.2v. Now I'm even more confused. Which do I buy and use.


----------



## ScottJD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

It also says read here for Li-ion 3.7V and refers to the disclaimer and recommended suggestions on how to operate if you use a Li-Ion 3.7V. 

* _Using 4.2V li-ion direct drives the LED and yields maximum output at the expense of extensive heat generated from the LED. Limit each usage to less than fives minutes (or less than one minute each with freshly charged li-ion for the first couple times). Active cooling (blowing cool air toward the light) or passive cooling (holding the light in your hand) helps preventing excessive heat built at the LED. Turn off the light to allow it to cool down if you find the flashlight too hot to hold. Do not leave the light running unattended with li-ion. During direct drive, output at low and medium mode will be higher than normal.
_
Leads me to beleive their maximum voltage statement is kind of confusing and misleading, but it's not the first time EagleTac has made false statements or typos on the web site. 
Ive read they do support Li-Ion 3.7V when I was debating on buying the DC25A. not sire how it would work if you went with a 3.3V LIFO rechargeable instead. It might not heat up as much for the first couple power ups like a charged Li-Ion at 4.2V. But also may not run in direct drive mode either. 



brightsteve said:


> Ok, I'm a bit confused. RCR123's I've seen 3v and 3.7v. The D25c specs says operating voltage upto 3.2v. Now I'm even more confused. Which do I buy and use.


----------



## brightsteve

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I've emailed them for advice. .........


----------



## ScottJD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Steve, good idea. They took a couple days last time I emailed them to respond, but they do respond. 
I also forgot to ask if it's the 2014 model or titanium model.
The TI specs say "

*Compatible with RCR123A li-ion Battery fitment"
Then the link takes you to the standard D25C page with the same disclaimer. When I also emailed them they told me the drivers cuircuts on the titanium and standards are identical. So it should have no issues with the Li-Ion when you read it like that.


----------



## brightsteve

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Probably playing catch up but I've just seen this

The most common chemistries you'll find:
ICR and IMR rechargeables: 4.2V max, 3.7V nominal
IFR (Lifepo4): 3.6V max, 3.2V nominal
3.0V RCRs are a special case: they are a regular ICR (4.2V max, 3.7V nominal) with a circuit on top that makes it appear to the outside world that it's a 3.0V cell

Never realised batteries were so confusing


----------



## brightsteve

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

ok so Nirecore RCRs received, charged and all works perfectly 

until ..... swaped back to ANY other battery Nitecore C123A, AW RCR or ANOTHER BRAND C123 and torch totally dead ? ? ? ? ?

put Nitecore RCRs back in....... works ? ? ?


----------



## brightsteve

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



brightsteve said:


> ok so Nitecore RCRs received, charged and all works perfectly
> 
> until ..... swaped back to ANY other battery Nitecore C123A, AW RCR or ANOTHER BRAND C123 and torch totally dead ? ? ? ? ?
> 
> put Nitecore RCRs back in....... works ? ? ?


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



brightsteve said:


> ok so Nirecore RCRs received, charged and all works perfectly
> 
> until ..... swaped back to ANY other battery Nitecore C123A, AW RCR or ANOTHER BRAND C123 and torch totally dead ? ? ? ? ?
> 
> put Nitecore RCRs back in....... works ? ? ?



Let me understand...with a Nitecore brand 3.7v Li-ion (16340) you get, low-(*a true*)medium-High? *Are you sure its not Low-High-High? If not, it's the first D25C I've ever seen, out of many, that keeps it's medium mode with a Li-ion battery? _

Then_ using any other 16340, or 3v primary...nothing?!


----------



## brightsteve

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Sorry, yes, low, high, high and turbo seems same as high. All other batteries dead as dodo. Seriously not impressed with this product. Emails from Eagletac contradicted their website info on batteries. Web site max voltage stated 3.2, advise c I can use Eagletac 3.7v batteries ? ?


----------



## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Yeah, Eagletac's D25C regulation leaves something to be desired in that with any power source over 3v (even a 3.2v LiFePo) you simply loose medium (although usually retain all other modes). Most people that frequent this forum and are familiar with this light accept it's quirk with Li-ions or just use 3v primary batt's. since it's a very efficient light and a primary goes a long way in this format. 

Since other batteries are not working at all...I suspect contact isn't being adequately made. Have you tried cleaning the contact pad and spring with Isopropyl Alcohol?

EDIT: Sorry, I forgot to answer your last question re 3.7v batt's...yes, you can use them, but just realize that in the higher modes you are running the light in direct drive and it will get hot very fast (25/30sec. on high) and turn it off, or down when you feel the light getting too hot. You could possibly destroy the emitter or drive circuit, but more likely just shorten their life.


----------



## ScottJD

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Sorry to hear about the Li-ion causing and issue with the light. As you know he site did have conflicting info and that's why you decided to contact EagleTac support. I assume they said it was OK since you purchased and tried the Li-Ion cell.

Not sure if your looking to get credit for the light but originally I know I was debating between the D25A clicky and the ZebraLight SC52W L2, and ended up getting the ZebraLight and have been happy with the performance, different levels including moon light even when running the Li-Ion cells. The only problem I recently ran into was trying the KeepPower 14500, it should be called the 14530 battery. So it's to big for the ZebraLight so I have to return them and look for another Sanyo 14500 protected cell. 

Again sorry to hear it affected your light. I also have an email from EagleTac saying Li-Ion works and won't affect other functions of the light from when I contacted them. 
Does standard alkaline batteries still work? Or are you stuck with Li-Ion only now?


Sent from my iPad using Candlepowerforums


----------



## brightsteve

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Have emailed Eagletac again , awaiting reply, really disappointed so far having read all good stuff here.


----------



## reppans

*Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*



brightsteve said:


> ok so Nirecore RCRs received, charged and all works perfectly
> 
> until ..... swaped back to ANY other battery Nitecore C123A, AW RCR or ANOTHER BRAND C123 and torch totally dead ? ? ? ? ?
> 
> put Nitecore RCRs back in....... works ? ? ?



This sounds totally bizarre... only thing I can think of is that the NC 16340 cell was too long and that you somehow over-compressed the spring so that when you use shorter cells, one end or the other is not touching and you do not have a complete circuit. 

I would try bypassing the body/clicky with a wire or paperclip like THIS. The negative path on the D25s runs to the threads for loose bezel modes, and to a combination of threads AND outer brass ring on the circuit board for tight bezel modes. If the bypass works, just try and stretch your spring out a bit.

Sorry to hear about ET's poor CS, but I'm not surprised - consider a FourSevens light for warranty and customer service in this price range (and good regulation).


----------



## selfbuilt

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*



reppans said:


> This sounds totally bizarre... only thing I can think of is that the NC 16340 cell was too long and that you somehow over-compressed the spring so that when you use shorter cells, one end or the other is not touching and you do not have a complete circuit.


Yeah, that would be my best guess as well - or maybe the positive contact disc got dented in? Doesn't make a lot of sense otherwise. :thinking: Try the paper clip trick and let us know how it goes.

The only Nitecore RCR I've seen is the NL166 (650mAh), and it measures 34.7mm in length - compared to 34.3mm for most of my AW RCR and primary CR123As. Not a huge difference, so I wouldn't have expected any problems.


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## brightsteve

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*

OK here goes.... trying three batteries listed in height order Nitecore RCR123A, Duracell 123 & Nitecore C123A

Bypass test.... ALL batteries work.
Pulled spring our slightly, RCR feels tighter under bezel, VERY slight undo twist to get mode two, hard to actually do, other two batteries...... nothing any mode 


This torch is doing my head in.


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## reppans

*Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*

Well congrats ... at least you have narrowed the issue down to a simple mechanical connection thing somewhere between the body/spring/clicky (usually used repairable).


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## brightsteve

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

ut the Nitecore RCR still works when others don't ? does that narrow it down to a connection issue ?


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## reppans

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*



brightsteve said:


> Pulled spring our slightly, RCR feels tighter under bezel, VERY slight undo twist to get mode two, hard to actually do, other two batteries...... nothing any mode



Did you try the shorter cells first, AFTER stretching the spring


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## brightsteve

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review*

yep, initially tried all yesterday, did bypass test, stretched spring, and only difference was the Nitecore RCR that worked felt tighter under bezel and was very very delicate with amount of twist to get mode 2, fraction of a turn only.

POSSIBLY SORTED ! !

just been having another play with spring. Have the Duracell and Nirecore CR123A now working low med high, silly flashes mode 2, turbo & strobe mode 1. Now replaced with RCR and bezel VERY tight to get mode 1. seem to get low high high x2 silly flashes, mode 1 high & strobe. difficult to tell if high or turbo seem equally bright
Not sure how the spring and tightness and bezel position works the modes but think i'm gonna stick to the primaries that work and put the RCRs down as a bad experience.


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## reppans

*Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*

Well the bypass test confirms the head and driver is OK. I don't know if your light is a Ti or anodized, but if the inside of your battery tube is bare metal (not anodized) then you can try dropping a ball of tinfoil between the spring and batt tube wall and see what works. This bridges the spring and tube wall (bypasses the clicky) effectively testing the tube and spring connections.

EDIT... Well seems you may have it sorted. Rechargeables that are too long can mess with everything, including pressing the circuit board to hard and crushing things in the head. Sounds like a good idea to leave that long cell out of the equation.


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## brightsteve

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*

thanks for all the help  torch, Ti version, nearly went for a long drop off of a short pier ! ! ! still don't quite follow how the bezel adjusts the modes but I do see that the length seems to be critical on this light. do I read right that high and turbo become one and medium disappears ?


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## cyclesport

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*

Glad you got your connection issues somewhat sorted. As far as programmable features go- you can toggle the moonlight to low output by starting with the head loose, then turn on the light, and then quickly repeat tight and loose three times. For mode memory (remembers the last output) start with head tight, turn on the light, and repeat loose and tight for three times.

Others can chime in on the 16340 vs CR123a's and how it affects modes, but I've had some version of every D25C clicky since it was launched in 2012 and they ALL loose medium w/_any_ batt. over 3v. IMO if you want all modes to function then stick to primary batteries.


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## mckeand13

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*

Can anyone confirm if the 2014 D25A Ti Clicky with Nichia 219 is using a 219a or 219b?

Thanks


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## Lithium466

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*

Mine is using a 219B, bought it in april or may 2014.


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## mckeand13

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*



Lithium466 said:


> Mine is using a 219B, bought it in april or may 2014.



Thanks. Are there physical differences or how does one tell them apart? Or is it just a lack of "rosiness"?


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## reppans

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*



mckeand13 said:


> Thanks. Are there physical differences or how does one tell them apart? Or is it just a lack of "rosiness"?



The A die has black dashes around the edge, the B does not. I have one of the earliest D25A N219s and mine is an A. 

clicky


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## gurdygurds

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*

Figured I would add my experience with Eagletac's D25a clicky to this thread. I am on my THIRD copy of this light, xml2u2 version. 1st one, threads so bad i could barely get the head on and off. Returned it. 2nd one fell out of my hand from about 3.5 ft and landed on the tile floor. Died. Returned it. #3 which I have right now, has just shown me it is completely NOT water tight. I RINSED it in the sink and dried it off, only to notice 10 minutes later the head all fogged up from condensation. Unscrewed the head and there is water all up the threads past the o-ring. Unscrewed the bezel and theres all sorts of water in there with the reflector as well. I don't know how but it's still working. Let everything dry out and pieced it back together. Maybe I have awful luck, but my assessment is that these are cool lights, with very mediocre build quality and less than great reliability. For a $50 flashlight I find this kind of thing disappointing and pretty lame. Boo


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## Crazyeddiethefirst

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I own three of these in Titanium and one hard anodized. All four have been modded by Vinh(1 V1, 2 V2 and one V3). All are awesome and none have failed-I guess Vinh is the answer to the lack of durability in the stock versions...


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


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## loquutis79

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I have four. Clicky replaced on one after a year and a half.(D25LC2) And a wonky UI problem in a D25C ti. Quick replacement parts from ET China with no questions asked. So not perfect, but not bad enough to dislike the brand.
just bought my fifth ET two weeks ago.


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## lilypirogova

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

great flashlights, planning to buy this.


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## luisdent

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

I love my d25a. I have only had two issues. First, I clipped it to the visor in my car when I was installing a stereo one night. Unfortunately, the pressure caused the clip to become permanently bent outwards too much. this doesn't happen with my 4sevens light clip. I removed the clip and bent it back, but it now doesn't have the rigidity it had when new. I think the steel just wasn't hardened in the way a nice clip is. Not a deal breaker, but I wish the clip were stronger when flexed. Second, and more of just an annoyance, when I put a diffuser on the light even a small amount of pressure causes the light to go into full brightness mode. As though the head were tightened. This happens even if I loosen the head more first.

Otherwise, it serves me well. It lasts a long time, fills most rooms fully with light if I bounce it on the ceiling. I wish it had a moonlight mode like my quark, but it's still greatly versatile. I'm glad to own one.


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## jon_slider

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

D25C on sale
I wont buy it because of the PWM, that selfbuilt says is not there, and reppans says IS there.

I dont understand how selfbuilt can report no PWM when a user can see it.. maybe Im confusing all the different models?


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## reppans

*Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*



jon_slider said:


> D25C on sale
> I wont buy it because of the PWM, that selfbuilt says is not there, and reppans says IS there.
> 
> I dont understand how selfbuilt can report no PWM when a user can see it.. maybe Im confusing all the different models?



Selfbuilt did not test the D25A, which is all I own. The D25A only uses PWM on a couple of modes (and it's the fastest I've ever photographed), and moonlight has slow PWM-like pulsation (depending upon sample and voltage) on moonlight. 

Here are three D25A samples swept along with an HDS across a time exposure. You really can't "see" PWM this fast unless you know exactly how to look for it - I never noticed it until another reviewer pointed it out. 







And a typical D25A moonlight on low voltage vs a Quark moonlight - cellphone test and time exposure.


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## jon_slider

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*



reppans said:


> The D25A only uses PWM on a couple of modes



thank you for the excellent photos of the PWM!

we have a difference of interpretation of the word PWM
reppans shows the D25A HAS PWM
selfbuilt and eagletac say the D25A2 is Current Regulated.
eagletac also says the D25A is Current Regulated.

I believe reppans

(the D25A and the D25A2 are the same light, only the switch is different, not the driver circuit)


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## reppans

*Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*



jon_slider said:


> thank you for the excellent photos of the PWM!
> 
> we have a difference of interpretation of the word PWM
> reppans shows the D25A HAS PWM
> selfbuilt and eagletac say the D25A2 is Current Regulated.
> eagletac also says the D25A is Current Regulated.
> 
> I believe reppans
> 
> (the D25A and the D25A2 are the same light, only the switch is different, not the driver circuit)



Thanks but, the D25A2 actually shares the same driver as the D25C (A950RC circuit) - the D25A uses the A400RC circuit. It's not a wide voltage driver... actually it's pretty narrow voltage, lower modes will shift and/or go direct drive.


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## jon_slider

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*



reppans said:


> Thanks but, the D25A2 actually shares the same driver as the D25C (A950RC circuit) - the D25A uses the *A400RC circuit*. It's not a wide voltage driver... actually it's pretty narrow voltage, lower modes will shift and/or go direct drive.



thank you for the education!
so, D25A = per reppans Yes PWM, per Eagletac No PWM:
"A400RC circuitWe use current regulation method to control the amount of current going through the LED for all output levels. "
but, D25C, D25A2 = per reppans No PWM, per Eagletac No PWM
thanks for the circuit difference info


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## reppans

*Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*



jon_slider said:


> but, *D25C, D25A2 = per reppans No PWM*, per Eagletac No PWM
> thanks for the circuit difference info



Not per me.... I don't own a C or A2 - I can only say the A has PWM on certain modes. 

As far as truth in advertising, my A's output and runtime specs are very truthful, conservative even, but their "10 year" warranty is quite misleading - it's really only 1 yr due to their "electronics" clause.


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## jon_slider

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*



reppans said:


> Not per me.... I don't own a C or A2 - I can only say the A has PWM on certain modes.



correction
D25C, D25A2 = per *selfbuilt* No PWM, per Eagletac No PWM


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## lebox97

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

reppans, EagleTac *flashlights* have a 120 month warranty... no problem.
_"We warrant our flashlights to be free from defects in workmanship and materials. We will repair, replace at our option, without charging any product or part which is found to be defective under normal use within 120 months from the date of purchase with the proof of purchase."
http://eagletac.com/html/contact/features/support.html_

There has never been any concern from ET or a dealer for handling *flashlight* warranties within the 120 month window, I am not aware of a single customer who has had problem getting a warranty concern addressed.

you are referring to the second paragraph - which relates to peripheral items - such as cords, chargers, batteries etc ie. "Electronics"
I'll ask ET to make this clearer on the site & Manual.

Cheers



reppans said:


> ...
> but their "10 year" warranty is quite misleading - it's really only 1 yr due to their "electronics" clause.


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## Lithium466

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Nope. Driver failure are considered "electronics" so 1 year warranty only, though they can be pretty arranging and/or costs for spare parts quite low.


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## reppans

*Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L &amp; XP-G)*



lebox97 said:


> There has never been any concern from ET or a dealer for handling *flashlight* warranties within the 120 month window, I am not aware of a single customer who has had problem getting a warranty concern addressed.
> 
> you are referring to the second paragraph - which relates to peripheral items - such as cords, chargers, batteries etc ie. "Electronics"
> I'll ask ET to make this clearer on the site & Manual.
> 
> Cheers



I have email them about it a while ago - asked if a flashlight driver were to fail, would it fall under 1 yr electronics clause, or the 10 yr "flashlight" warranty. I was told the driver is covered for 1 year (Christina).

That said, due to the "generous" wording of their warranty terms, I'm sure they quite lenient with the repairs.... but they don't have to be.


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

For the D25C clicky, operating on a CR123a primary, what warning, if any, is there before it runs out of juice? Do high and/or turbo get dimmer? Does ML work but not turbo? Thanks in advance.


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## recDNA

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*



jon_slider said:


> D25C on sale
> I wont buy it because of the PWM, that selfbuilt says is not there, and reppans says IS there.
> 
> I dont understand how selfbuilt can report no PWM when a user can see it.. maybe Im confusing all the different models?


It would be nice if the xml2 version were also on sale


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## kreisl

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

my favorite youtuber just reviewed this old flashlight as the best EDC flashlight of the *2016 *year omg :



i am not fond of the black aluminum version but the titanium D25 clickies are arguably among the very best EDC ti lights from PRC. also wondering why he chose this over the Smini. in the 16340 form factor i'd prefer the Smini to the D25C because the Smini is more suitable for mouth carry, baseball cap carry, and can be equipped with a magnetic tail (from the S1).

well, i guess it's best to have em both. so no arguing lol.


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## zaanea

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Hi everyone,

I own several lights including the Eagletac D25A Nichia. Since this is a review post I thought I ad some information about de D25A.

I bought this D25A because of the high CRI and the interface. My previous EDC was the Fenix PD20. I really like the interface en that of the D25A is almost the same. 
I was a bit disapointed actually by the waterproof test. The D25A claimes to be IPX8, but under a shower test it already showed condensation under the glass. First day out of the box. 

You guys might wondering, why a shower test. Well I'm quite an acitve sportsman and often swimmer. And with my friends I had contest to always carry a light. 
The Fenix PD20 goes with to the pool and very good in submersing under water and never shown leakage or condesation. 

The D25A doesn't look that waterproof after its first non submerserive test. 

I got some pictures of the results and also the size of the o rings if anyone is interrested?


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## DigMe

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Is anyone using the 4.2v Foursevens high discharge rate rechargeable battery (the one that comes with the flex charger and Mini MK II) in your D25C? I realize you use medium mode on the D25C when using a 4.2v battery. Just wondering if anyone is using this combo and how it's working out for you.


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## epv

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

For what it's worth, I just picked up a 2014(?) model - where the whole tube is knurled, rather than just in bands like newer ones - it's sold as (and looks like) an XM-L2 emitter. There is apparently some question about whether these do PWM, but I've just set mine up with an oscilloscope and a photodiode and can verify that this one at least very much does PWM except on full power mode. PWM frequency right now is 3976 Hz which I guess is sufficient to not be noticeable unless you're unusually sensitive to flicker. I may leave it as is so I can use the twisty mode switching, but on the other hand a different driver with firmware I can tweak myself is tempting.


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## gottawearshades

*Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)*

Can anyone say, does the latest version of the D25LC2 have mode memory?


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