# Nitrolon is underrated



## etc (May 10, 2018)

I wish surefire - or anyone - made more lights based on nitrolon.

My only device is Surefire G2x Pro. I like it for 2 reasons. First, it's noticeably lighter than anything else I have metal-based.
Second, it seems to grip better. Just sticks to your hand.
Actually there is a third reason. In the winter, it does not get cold.

The only downside I can think of, the plastic threads aren't as smooth as the metal lights. I use the G2x Pro in the twisty mode. I don't ever use the clicky as intended. And yes it works that way. Just like Surefire 6P.

I wish surefire expanded the entire line to encompass nitrolon. And made Surefire G3x, G4x and ideally with 18650 support.

Actually there is yet a 4th reason for nitrolon. Maybe the most important one. it's cheaper. G2x Pro, you can pick up for a fraction of the cost of Fury. It's just cheaper to make and the savings are passed on to the consumer. You can get a used model for around 30-40 bucks any day every day. That's not expensive. That's maglite territory. 

I usually EDC the G2x Pro but I wouldn't mind having the nitrolon version of Fury or such. Including its 3 cell configuration. It's tough as anything, maybe even tougher than metal in the sense that when you drop it, it does not deform as badly.


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## MAD777 (May 10, 2018)

All good points. I would add a con, but only for high powered lights, that it is probably a poor disipator of heat.


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## etc (May 10, 2018)

MAD777 said:


> All good points. I would add a con, but only for high powered lights, that it is probably a poor disipator of heat.



Actually, that is true. To be completely fair, the G2x Pro head is made of metal. It's just coated in that paint that comes off if you drop it. It's metal and if you drop it, it does get deformed just like 6P. So perhaps I mean just the body, and the outer part of the bezel but yeah the insides have to be metal and heat-sinked. You know Surefire doesn't really heat any G2x - or anything for that matter, which is part of the reason it's light.

Nevertheless, I am sold on Nitrolon. My wish list would include an aggressive knurling pattern on a nitrolon body. G2x is not bad but could be better.

It's a cost-savings thing. And polymer can be really tough. They gotta add 18mm cell support. Theoretically Malkoff I think should expand his line to include nitrolon to bring down the cost of Hound Dogs and MD-whatever, so it's a win situation for the consumer. Of course I don't really know how a metal head would mate with a nitrolon body. Maybe it won't.


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## Dirty wage guy (May 10, 2018)

I too am a huge advocate of nitrolon and one of my most used and favored lights is my G2 with a sportac triple. You can run that drop in on primaries and I NEVER have had any issues with heat and it’s plenty bright as well. 
Although mine does have a glass lens, the lexan lens G2’s may have problems running this same setup. 
The nitrolon tho is rock solid and strong AF and I wish more lights would be availabe in this material.


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## bykfixer (May 10, 2018)

The G2x Pro is just flat out a great flashlight. 

If SureFire were to build one that ran on 2aa's and sold them at box stores they'd probably have to add a shift at the factory. 
No joke.

Right now Pelican's 2360 can do 375 steady lumens, so if SureFire did the nitrolon at 350 lumens starting at the same low as the current crop of G2x Pro lights.... and sold them for about $40.... 
Hey, one can always daydream, right?


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## kelmo (May 10, 2018)

One of my favorite lights is a an old yellow G2. I'll never sell/give away that light! I have enough P60s to last a life time. Its ironic, I bought it for $40 and it commands more attention than some of my SF/Malkoff hybrids...


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## flatline (May 10, 2018)

I'm pondering getting a G2 and, possibly, a G3. I like the idea of a light that I can give to one of the kids and not worry about the floor or the light being damaged if they drop it. I rarely use more than 100 lumens, so heat dissipation is not often a concern for me.

There are G2s on Ebay, but no G3s. I may have missed my chance to pick one up.

--flatline


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## Kestrel (May 10, 2018)

As I am perhaps one of the most faithful bearers of the 'Z'-series banner; I do rather treasure my Nitrolon G2Z, and am finally moving again on my semi-secret Nitrolon 'Z' project, lol.


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## parametrek (May 10, 2018)

I tend to like plastic lights. Still don't have a G2 though. I guess because I don't want to buy any 16650 batteries 

The Solarforce P1 has been wonderful though. It is my favorite 18650 light by a lot. The "plastic is cheaper" option doesn't seem to apply when the light is made in China though. The P1 is one of the more expensive "basic" hosts that Solarforce offers. Of course it isn't the most expensive. No carbon fiber or stainless bling. But it is 2x as expensive as the L2M which is arguably better since the L2M light comes with multiple battery tube options.

Between the Solarforce P1, the LRI Photon Freedom and the 9V Paklite some of my most expensive lights are made of plastic


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## archimedes (May 11, 2018)

A few others here on CPF were just discussing the NexTorch GT6A-S in another thread (which is one I was not aware of, but you might want to check out) ....


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## Dirty wage guy (May 11, 2018)

flatline said:


> I'm pondering getting a G2 and, possibly, a G3. I like the idea of a light that I can give to one of the kids and not worry about the floor or the light being damaged if they drop it. I rarely use more than 100 lumens, so heat dissipation is not often a concern for me.
> 
> There are G2s on Ebay, but no G3s. I may have missed my chance to pick one up.
> 
> --flatline



Exactly!! +1,000,000!


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## Woods Walker (May 11, 2018)

I have been using them from the get go for over a decade. My first were a pre lockout OD G2 then G2Z. Have a yellow and black lockout G2s as well. Got a G3 not that long ago for a great deal on the forums. They tend not to show scrapes and dings like anodized aluminum though that really doesn't matter IMO. Feels great in hand in extreme cold. Very UL so nice in the pack. The primary downside for LED is heat. I put an Al bezel on the G2Z and there is one on the G3. I use the all plastic lights mostly for low power requirements. They have the LLs


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## Woods Walker (May 11, 2018)

Also careful as on Fleabay for G2s. They're being counterfeited. You can find real G2s if yea shop around but watch out for fakes.


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## ZMZ67 (May 11, 2018)

I am fortunate to have some G2s that I purchased on clearance but I wish they were still available. WW makes a good point about cold weather use,anything metal is uncomfortable to use with your hands once it gets cold. The lower power drop ins really don't require aluminum bodies so the nitrolon G2/G3 are as useful these days as they ever were. With all the wonderful options available in flashlights there isn't much comparable to the G2/G3 on the market. I think that many people are in the mindset that quality flashlights will be made of metal, at least here in the U.S. anyway. Probably due to the well known Maglite brand as well as earlier lights like the Ray-o-vac Sportsman.


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## etc (May 11, 2018)

bykfixer said:


> The G2x Pro is just flat out a great flashlight.
> 
> If SureFire were to build one that ran on 2aa's and sold them at box stores they'd probably have to add a shift at the factory.
> No joke.
> ...




Yeah, and if they kept the price similar to MiniMag ... which is actually not all that cheap anymore.


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## etc (May 11, 2018)

A huge plus, like mentioned above, if dropped, they are safer in a sense. I dropped one of the Hound Dogs and it created this sharp edge that had to be filed down with sandpaper, on the bezel. 
Nitrolon doesn't have that problem. In a sense, it's more durable than metal.


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## hsa (May 11, 2018)

Streamlite Polytac is pretty nice with a runtime graph that is flat as Kansas.


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## RedLED (May 11, 2018)

That's why I bought a bunch of G2s in yellow and tan to put different Drop-in LEs in them. Even running a Malkoff, you can run them quite a while and they are fine, however any extended legenth of time you better check. 

Also the Waffle pattern is a great looking light!


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## bykfixer (May 11, 2018)

Here's one for the mod squad who prefer sleeper mods...






Classic SureFire look (at a glance) with matching ano from the SolarForce metal head, smooth bezel and glass lens.

I used a Scout head adapter gasket by Malkoff up front to get the 85 lumen P60L (or any other drop in) to work all proper-like.


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## ven (May 11, 2018)

Kestrel said:


> As I am perhaps one of the most faithful bearers of the 'Z'-series banner; I do rather treasure my Nitrolon G2Z, and am finally moving again on my semi-secret Nitrolon 'Z' project, lol.




Quite like the G2, 





But really like the G2z , the form as with the z series i love!





Having left one (or should i say accidentally activated) in my top draw in work, the OR mule(300 ish lumens) was on for 30 mins before i realised. The metal insert/tube transferred the heat nicely through the body from the base of the p60. It was actually quite strange to hold a very warm nitrolon light from head to tail. 

Only slight issue is with weighty p60's, it makes the light quite top heavy in hand.


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## novice (May 11, 2018)

Kestrel said:


> As I am perhaps one of the most faithful bearers of the 'Z'-series banner; I do rather treasure my Nitrolon G2Z, and am finally moving again on my semi-secret Nitrolon 'Z' project, lol.


Kestrel, PM sent.


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## flatline (May 11, 2018)

Woods Walker said:


> Also careful as on Fleabay for G2s. They're being counterfeited. You can find real G2s if yea shop around but watch out for fakes.



How do you tell the authentic G2s from the fakes?

--flatline


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## the0dore3524 (May 11, 2018)

flatline said:


> How do you tell the authentic G2s from the fakes?
> 
> --flatline



The counterfeit ones ship from China and have a generic picture with shoddy descriptions. They generally run about ~$20. With respect to the lights themselves, I’ve no idea. Maybe someone else can comment on that, but I’d rather not risk the cash lol.


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## thaugen (May 12, 2018)

Nitrolon new and old are some of my favorite Surefire lights. The new G2X Pro 600 with my favorite G2 yellow with a Malkoff 219bL V2 and McClicky switch.


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## Woods Walker (May 12, 2018)

flatline said:


> How do you tell the authentic G2s from the fakes?
> 
> --flatline



Here are some danger signs.

Surefire G2 OD Nitrolon Single Output white led light CREE LED 123A Flashlight


























​
*Surefire G2 OD Nitrolon Single Output white led light CREE LED 123A Flashlight*



*FREE *ePacket delivery from China


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## Jose Marin (May 12, 2018)

So i have one of those 20 dollar china g2's and it works just fine. I use it a lot actually and i like how it's light enough to wear around neck. Im too nervous to pay more for an authentic one because i have no clue what im looking for. I too would like to know if there is a visual clue on the light itself. Here's my bejing special with mcclicky, or derlin bezel, elzetta lanyard ring, sf lanyard and malkoff m61ll


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## ampdude (May 12, 2018)

At the very least I like to have a G2 with a P60 lamp assembly in a vehicle as a backup to my EDC. As mentioned, doesn't get cold in the winter and snow melts as soon as it hits the lens. As P60's tend to vary a little from throwy to floody, I tend to keep a throwy one in there. It's a hell of a light for what they originally cost. I do replace the lexan lens with hardened mineral glass.


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## archimedes (May 12, 2018)

Jose Marin said:


> So i have one of those 20 dollar china g2's and it works just fine. I use it a lot actually and i like how it's light enough to wear around neck. Im too nervous to pay more for an authentic one because i have no clue what im looking for. I too would like to know if there is a visual clue on the light itself. Here's my bejing special with mcclicky, or derlin bezel, elzetta lanyard ring, sf lanyard and malkoff m61ll
> ....



Would rather not get into a detailed discussion of the specifics here, which typically serves to just make the copies harder to detect in the future, but yes there are some visual clues present.


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## bykfixer (May 12, 2018)

archimedes said:


> Would rather not get into a detailed discussion of the specifics here, which typically serves to just make the copies harder to detect in the future, but yes there are some visual clues present.



I used to think "fakers aint looking here for clues" but after struggling to find a real copy of the LED Lenser P7, I pointed out 3 out of 5 flaws in a thread here.... and don't you know about 6 months later (after reporting fake sellers to Amazon) I took a chance.... and my next one was a fake with those 3 flaws corrected!!! The other two flaws were still there.


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## archimedes (May 12, 2018)

bykfixer said:


> I used to think "fakers aint looking here for clues" but after struggling to find a real copy of the LED Lenser P7, I pointed out 3 out of 5 flaws in a thread here.... and don't you know about 6 months later (after reporting fake sellers to Amazon) I took a chance.... and my next one was a fake with those 3 flaws corrected!!! The other two flaws were still there.



yep :shakehead


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## ampdude (May 12, 2018)

bykfixer said:


> I used to think "fakers aint looking here for clues" but after struggling to find a real copy of the LED Lenser P7, I pointed out 3 out of 5 flaws in a thread here.... and don't you know about 6 months later (after reporting fake sellers to Amazon) I took a chance.... and my next one was a fake with those 3 flaws corrected!!! The other two flaws were still there.



I was fooled by a Surefire Z48 clicky switch clone a few years back when I was selling it in the classifieds. I didn't look at it close enough and I took it back from the buyer because I realized it was a clone by the evidence provided. This stuff is getting out of hand nowadays.


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## Unicorn (May 13, 2018)

I like them within their limits. The negatives aren't huge for most things though.
They are thicker than an aluminum body because while polymer can be as strong or stronger by weight than aluminum, it isn't usually by volume. So you need a thicker amount to be as strong. And as stiff. Not really a big deal though unless it's a tiny AA or AAA light.

They don't make good heat sinks so the LED might be a bit too warm. Also not sure how they might handle the heat during extended use of a high powered light. Probably great for low to moderate light, but I'm thinking several hundreds of lumens for an hour.

How brittle are they in the cold? Enough to break if dropped when it's say, 0 degrees F? I haven't had the misfortune of dropping any of mine when it's below freezing so I've no clue.

It is nice to not have to worry about your light freezing to your hand. Or on the other end, burning your hand in the hot sun.

For smaller lights it's a great choice. If you get into something as big as say a Magcharger or Streamlight Ultrastinger the weight difference is smaller since most of the weight is in the battery and not the body anymore. A two cell 123 or single cell 16580 definitely benefits from the weight reduction though.


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## nbp (May 13, 2018)

archimedes said:


> Would rather not get into a detailed discussion of the specifics here, which typically serves to just make the copies harder to detect in the future, but yes there are some visual clues present.



I’ve seen this logic used for other items too on forums and I personally believe the only way keeping quiet helps counterfeiters is by keeping consumers in the dark. It doesn’t hold water. You don’t think that they buy an original to work from?? They can analyze a real one in hand six ways to Sunday and make it perfect if they want. They know the flaws - you’re not giving them any revolutionary insight. But why spend the extra money to correct the tiny things if it’s close enough to fool most people as is? Sad but true.


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## nbp (May 13, 2018)

Regarding the durability of the Nitrolon lights here is a thread I started many years ago about a torture test I did on a G2L. The pix aren’t working now, might have them around somewhere, but you still get the story. [emoji6]

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ived-a-60-Foot-Fall-to-Concrete!-(With-Pics)&


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## ampdude (May 13, 2018)

nbp said:


> I’ve seen this logic used for other items too on forums and I personally believe the only way keeping quiet helps counterfeiters is by keeping consumers in the dark. It doesn’t hold water. You don’t think that they buy an original to work from?? They can analyze a real one in hand six ways to Sunday and make it perfect if they want. They know the flaws - you’re not giving them any revolutionary insight. But why spend the extra money to correct the tiny things if it’s close enough to fool most people as is? Sad but true.



I think that, when things are pointed out, they correct them. If they are not publicly pointed out, they probably don't bother. That's just my take on it.


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## archimedes (May 13, 2018)

nbp said:


> I’ve seen this logic used for other items too on forums and I personally believe the only way keeping quiet helps counterfeiters is by keeping consumers in the dark. It doesn’t hold water. You don’t think that they buy an original to work from?? They can analyze a real one in hand six ways to Sunday and make it perfect if they want. They know the flaws - you’re not giving them any revolutionary insight. But why spend the extra money to correct the tiny things if it’s close enough to fool most people as is? Sad but true.



I don't want to drag this thread further off topic with the counterfeiting issue, but I'll just briefly respond here.

Yes, of course, whoever is ripping off copies has the resources to buy an authentic original item to reverse engineer it.

They presumably want to fool the most people possible, yet create the cheapest and shoddiest product able to do so.

These goals are at odds, though.

So by maximin game theory, only the more "obvious" flaws get "corrected" because those cost sales, and changes cost money.

Publishing those flaws makes it easier for others to detect fakes, and thereby increases pressure for corresponding changes in later iterations ... :sigh:



ampdude said:


> I think that, when things are pointed out, they correct them. If they are not publicly pointed out, they probably don't bother. That's just my take on it.



Yes, that's just it, stated more succinctly.


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## nbp (May 13, 2018)

Very well. I still believe hoarding information does a disservice to the community, and educating and protecting other enthusiasts should be the primary goal. In any case, I agree we are off topic and ought to move on. 

How about that G2L launch, hey? [emoji2]


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## desert.snake (May 13, 2018)

Nitrolon this is an excellent, warm material. Perhaps it would be cool worthwhile to make
a whole-aluminum flashlight, but with a thin ~ 2 mm coating of nitrolone.
This will save as a good heat sink for powerful light, and it will be warm for hand in winter,
better grip, less noticeable scratches.


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## bykfixer (May 13, 2018)

Winner, winner, chicken dinner...





Tan G2L





With a nicely colored beam

No blue, no gray, no green, no purple....


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## scout24 (May 13, 2018)

Hey Bykfixer- PM incoming. (See how that worked?  )


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## Woods Walker (May 13, 2018)

I intentionally purchased some plastic tail caps knowing full well they were fake as the intention was to pack as an inexpensive backup for SF or even Malkoff should the clicky fail. Turned out to be one of my better ideas. The fake plastic tail cap in terms of connectivity is the best tail cap I own for P60 stuff. It works with every host I tried and about every omnivore combo. I mean everything from pre lockout to SolarFore. 

Left original right copy.












I should test it for water resistance. Al bezel and plastic body was one of the first things I learned on CPF back in the M60/P60L days. G2Z with AL bezel running M61NL, G3 with Al bezel running M31L with original twisty tail cap but also clicky modified one and MD1.5 with 219B M31LL with copy tail which is backup for the Malkoff clicky.


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## kj2 (May 13, 2018)

desert.snake said:


> Nitrolon this is an excellent, warm material. Perhaps it would be cool worthwhile to make
> a whole-aluminum flashlight, but with a thin ~ 2 mm coating of nitrolone.


They already do that. Plastic doesn't go well with electricity. Have multiple SF lights, and when you unscrew the tailcap, you can see the metal. The outside coating is nitrolon. The rest is metal.


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## bykfixer (May 13, 2018)

nbp said:


> I’ve seen this logic used for other items too on forums and I personally believe the only way keeping quiet helps counterfeiters is by keeping consumers in the dark. It doesn’t hold water. You don’t think that they buy an original to work from?? They can analyze a real one in hand six ways to Sunday and make it perfect if they want. They know the flaws - you’re not giving them any revolutionary insight. But why spend the extra money to correct the tiny things if it’s close enough to fool most people as is? Sad but true.





archimedes said:


> I don't want to drag this thread further off topic with the counterfeiting issue, but I'll just briefly respond here.
> 
> Yes, of course, whoever is ripping off copies has the resources to buy an authentic original item to reverse engineer it.
> 
> ...



:touche:
In the tan trunks... weighing in at....

Eh, just kidding
:buddies:

But seriously, I love, love, love me some yellow nitrolon.


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## desert.snake (May 14, 2018)

kj2 said:


> They already do that. Plastic doesn't go well with electricity. Have multiple SF lights, and when you unscrew the tailcap, you can see the metal. The outside coating is nitrolon. The rest is metal.




Not really, what they do, inside the place where the module is put anyway, nitrolon.
Metal inside - thin metal tube, it can be seen here.

It can also be seen that the strength of nitrolone is not sufficient in extreme applications.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VGKtPeHX1I

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lptpDgCE0N4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mI70lWY7cg

I mean to a whole aluminum flashlight, adding a thin layer of nitrolone for better grip.


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## Dave D (May 14, 2018)

flatline said:


> I'm pondering getting a G2 and, possibly, a G3. I like the idea of a light that I can give to one of the kids and not worry about the floor or the light being damaged if they drop it. I rarely use more than 100 lumens, so heat dissipation is not often a concern for me.
> 
> There are G2s on Ebay, but no G3s. I may have missed my chance to pick one up.
> 
> --flatline



They are available in Europe. 

G3 Incan - http://www.flashlightshop.de/index.php?cPath=31_50&osCsid=91ae2b7900ce87df2ce6ac9714d79747

G3 LED Yellow - http://www.flashlightshop.de/produc...=7961&osCsid=91ae2b7900ce87df2ce6ac9714d79747


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## etc (May 16, 2018)

the0dore3524 said:


> The counterfeit ones ship from China and have a generic picture with shoddy descriptions. They generally run about ~$20. With respect to the lights themselves, I’ve no idea. Maybe someone else can comment on that, but I’d rather not risk the cash lol.





Well, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.


But honestly, I had no idea. I could understand expensive Surefire lights, their high-end models. But cheap foreign junk copying cheap domestic junk, for about the same price. Well, not really "junk", I am being facetious.


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## etc (May 16, 2018)

kj2 said:


> They already do that. Plastic doesn't go well with electricity. Have multiple SF lights, and when you unscrew the tailcap, you can see the metal. The outside coating is nitrolon. The rest is metal.



I see, so Nitrolon lights are not really nitrolon, just the coating is nitrolon.


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## Woods Walker (May 16, 2018)




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## flatline (May 18, 2018)

So is there a list of well regarded non-metal flashlight somewhere?

Just in this thread we've mentioned the following:
Surefire G2 (and variants)
NexTorch GT6A-S
Streamlight Polytac
Solarforce P1

Now that you can get 200+ lumens without needing to sink a whole lot of heat, it seems like this type of body should be more popular than it is.

I purchased 2 of the NexTorch (at $8 each, I just couldn't resist) and I'm very impressed with them. But I'm still tempted to get a yellow G2 or Polytac (yellow is just awesome!).

--flatline


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## novice (May 19, 2018)

flatline,
There used to be an orange GT6A-S. It originally came with an led, not incan, light engine, and the bezel was not metal. I used to have one several years ago, and I don't know what happened to it. I also came across two websites that claim to have a yellow GT6A-S, but the photos show only a black model, and I don't know if the descriptions can be trusted. Both of those sites charge close to $30. I could PM the URL addresses if you would like.

You might also want to check out the underwater kinetics selection at uwk.com, and princeton tec lights at princetontec.com.

I'm not sure what your operational parameters of "well-regarded" may or may not entail. I got a princeton tec Amp 3 several years ago that I was disappointed in, but some of the other Princeton tec lights might be substantially better.


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## flatline (May 19, 2018)

Anyone know if the Streamlight PolyTac 88850 will happily run on li-ion?

--flatline


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## Dirty wage guy (May 19, 2018)

I love this thread and it’s awesome to see so many nitro fans. Hopefully enough people will chime in and makers will take note that there’s definitely a market for nitrolon lights. Lots of money to be made there.

I’ll post my nitro collection sometime, but they are by far some of my favorite lights especially when I’m working in the garage. When you’re under the car and need both hands, the G2 feels a heck of a lot nicer on the teeth than a metal light when you gotta hold it with your mouth. Lol
I probably grossed a lot of folks out with that, but that’s just how ol’dirty gets down


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## bykfixer (May 19, 2018)

There was a teeth hold thread at one point....


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## etc (May 21, 2018)

Dirty wage guy said:


> I love this thread and it’s awesome to see so many nitro fans. Hopefully enough people will chime in and makers will take note that there’s definitely a market for nitrolon lights. Lots of money to be made there.
> 
> I’ll post my nitro collection sometime, but they are by far some of my favorite lights especially when I’m working in the garage. When you’re under the car and need both hands, the G2 feels a heck of a lot nicer on the teeth than a metal light when you gotta hold it with your mouth. Lol
> I probably grossed a lot of folks out with that, but that’s just how ol’dirty gets down



You know, I completely forgot about this one.

I had this jr. Luxeon eons ago and I used the teeth hold trick and eventually ended up eating half the paint off of it.

Well, not half but you get the idea.


Plastic doesn't get as cold in your mouth and paint doesn't end up in your mouth either. G2x is small and light enough to employ that method.


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## SG688 (May 29, 2018)

The Blackhawk X6P and X9P are made in Spain plastic incandescents using P60 size modules. I liked the aluminum X6 so much that I bought 3. Forward clickie tailcap and SF thread compatible. 

$20 eBay. $36 Amazon


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## tech25 (May 29, 2018)

The light that I keep in my car is a Surfire G2 with the metal head and a malkoff M61L drop in. I carried it as my primary work light for years before I upgraded to an MD2. 

I used the light this past winter (is it over yet?) on a really cold night and got to appreciate the difference between a metal body and a nitrolon body. I usually have my MD2 in a holster so my body heat keeps it from getting too cold so I never really thought about it. One day after work I had put my MD2 in the glove compartment, when I pulled it out later that night, the MD2 was so cold that I was very grateful for the nitrolon light next to it.


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## etc (May 30, 2018)

SG688 said:


> The Blackhawk X6P and X9P are made in Spain plastic incandescents using P60 size modules. I liked the aluminum X6 so much that I bought 3. Forward clickie tailcap and SF thread compatible.
> 
> $20 eBay. $36 Amazon




Hm, interesting. Pic?


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## FREI (May 31, 2018)

flatline said:


> So is there a list of well regarded non-metal flashlight somewhere?
> 
> Just in this thread we've mentioned the following:
> Surefire G2 (and variants)
> ...



Inforce has also polymer flashlights


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## SG688 (Jun 1, 2018)




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## flatline (Jul 20, 2018)

I got a G2 earlier this week. I think I like it better than the 6P.

I was expecting it to be of obviously better quality than the NexTorch (based purely on the price difference and brand name reputation), but in reality, they seem to be of similar quality.

--flatline


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## Hoka Hey (Aug 4, 2018)

I purchased several when they first came out for what may seem an odd reason. Mouth carry! Much easier on your teeth! I would always end up with a flashlight in my mouth working on cars, motorcycles, etc. 

Always kept one in the glove box or saddle bags. They are lost to the sands of time now, but worked wonderfully.


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## etc (Aug 6, 2018)

wow, so someone still makes incans. 

Now that's commitment.


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## flatline (Dec 29, 2018)

I got a yellow Streamlight Polytac for Xmas. I'm super impressed with it. And yes, it runs just fine on a 16650 cell.

Curiously, the packaging indicates it's the older 275L/14L model, but the behavior of the light matches the new 600/260/35L as described on the Streamlight website. It seems a little strange that they would ship the updated light with the old packaging material, but whatever...

Anyways, I definitely recommend the light to anyone who's interested in a CR123A or 16650 light.

--flatline


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## ChattanoogaPhil (Jan 4, 2019)

G3 with Malkoff M61LL. 

Great around the house general purpose light.


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## ven (Jan 4, 2019)

Thats a mighty fine USA line up Phil

My nitrolon has an sst20 4000k hi cri in right now, its actually the fav of the 3 different samples i have.............................and its not a triple!!!(other 2 are).





Kind of cheating , the head is from a C2 but the body is nitrolon


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## Kestrel (Jan 4, 2019)

A long time ago, we had a contingent here that was really pining for a nitrolon turbohead for the G-series SF's.
I even pinged CPF member *[email protected]* about it; he seemed to like the idea personally, but could also see the writing on the wall for the commercial viability of those configs. :sigh:


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## ven (Jan 4, 2019)

That does sound very cool Kestrel, i am having visions right now............

Still my fav is the g2z


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## Kestrel (Jan 4, 2019)

ven said:


> [...] Still my fav is the g2z [...]


I still enjoy using my G2Z on occasion, but my new favorite is pictured in the foreground here: 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pfc6pzh4cbunorv/20180610_132554.jpg?dl=0


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## AVService (Jan 4, 2019)

My favorite is probably the G3 I run on 2aa with a Nailbender Low Voltage 5 speed warm engine.


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## flatline (Jan 4, 2019)

Can G3's even be purchased anymore?

--flatline


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## martinaee (Jan 4, 2019)

The G3 lights look so cool, but I would never own one because I can't put a 16650 in it like I can in my yellow G2X Pro.


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## flatline (Jan 4, 2019)

martinaee said:


> The G3 lights look so cool, but I would never own one because I can't put a 16650 in it like I can in my yellow G2X Pro.



You could use a 16650 + spacer in the G3. This is interesting to me because I'm currently running a 16340 + spacer in my G2 since I noticed the G2 spring was etching into the bottom of my 16650 cell.

If you have a p60-ish drop-in that can be reasonably powered by 2AA, then the G3 might also be interesting because of that.

--flatline


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## AVService (Jan 4, 2019)

I like mine on AA and I can run them in sleeves or not with no real problems.




flatline said:


> You could use a 16650 + spacer in the G3. This is interesting to me because I'm currently running a 16340 + spacer in my G2 since I noticed the G2 spring was etching into the bottom of my 16650 cell.
> 
> If you have a p60-ish drop-in that can be reasonably powered by 2AA, then the G3 might also be interesting because of that.
> 
> --flatline


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## novice (Jan 4, 2019)

martinaee said:


> The G3 lights look so cool, but I would never own one because I can't put a 16650 in it like I can in my yellow G2X Pro.



What about using 2x16500 cells? I don't own any, but I am thinking of getting some 16mm Li-ion cells to replace some 17mm cells.


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## Timothybil (Jan 4, 2019)

novice said:


> What about using 2x16500 cells? I don't own any, but I am thinking of getting some 16mm Li-ion cells to replace some 17mm cells.


If you are staying incandescent then you would need to move up to the P90 lamps. There would be no problem finding a drop in LED to match two 16650 cells.


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## Timothybil (Jan 4, 2019)

I'm sorry, but I've never warmed up to any of the permutations that came after the G2. I've got two G2, both with very nice high CRI LED drop ins. I'm debating whether or not I should replace the Lexan lenses with AR glass ones. I even found a nice little watch back tool that works great for removing the bezel.


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## novice (Jan 4, 2019)

Timothybil,
Pm sent.


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## rrego (Jan 6, 2019)

I like nitrolon 

https://imgur.com/a/qMHtlzN








*

don't know how to post directly


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## tuelleric (Jan 6, 2019)

flatline said:


> Can G3's even be purchased anymore?
> 
> --flatline



I hope it is okay to post it here. Just saw these in the German ebay (just search for it).

I am not the seller nor do I know him. But it looks like a fair offer and he seems to ship internationally.

_Edited to remove direct auction link._


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## archimedes (Jan 6, 2019)

No, please don't post direct links to outside auctions here in the discussion forums. Thank you.


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## flatline (Jan 6, 2019)

I found a G3 LED online. Looks like a nitrolon body but aluminum head. Is that what they did in order to deal with the heat from the LED?

--flatline


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## tech25 (Jan 6, 2019)

Yes, the nitrolon head didn’t deal well with the heat that the leds gave off so surefire used the metal head. I got my first surefire -a G2L when they switched to the metal heads. Coming from an incandescent AA mini mag, I was blown away. The regulation wasn’t great so it didn’t take long for me to get a Malkoff M61L in there. I still have that light but it’s now in my glove compartment, and the original surefire led module I gave to one of my coworkers after his Incan 6p bulb burnt out on a job.


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## flatline (Jan 6, 2019)

Does that mean I can swap the heads of my P6 and G2? Or is something else going on there?


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## ven (Jan 7, 2019)

Yes 6p,c2, z2 all fit. My G2 has the grey head from my C2 on there.


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## tuelleric (Jan 7, 2019)

archimedes said:


> No, please don't post direct links to outside auctions here in the discussion forums. Thank you.



Okay, sorry. Just edited my post.


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## archimedes (Jan 7, 2019)

tuelleric said:


> Okay, sorry. Just edited my post.


Thanks for that


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## ChattanoogaPhil (Jan 8, 2019)

flatline said:


> Can G3's even be purchased anymore?
> 
> --flatline



Not that I'm aware of.

For whatever reason there seems to be a lot of love for the G3 now. I don't remember much interest when I purchased mine several years ago.


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## martinaee (Jan 8, 2019)

People want what they can't have.


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## archimedes (Jan 8, 2019)

martinaee said:


> People want what they can't have.


I wish I had gotten a couple more, now (lol)


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## tuelleric (Jan 9, 2019)

Imho, the downside with the G3 (as well with a stock 9P) is that there are no good options to run rechargeables in there. If you even still get 16500/17500 cells they are anything but up to date..

That said, since I recently got a 16650/2500 mAh cell my G2 with the Malkoff M61 HCRI now is one of my favourite lights!


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## flatline (Jan 9, 2019)

tuelleric said:


> Imho, the downside with the G3 (as well with a stock 9P) is that there are no good options to run rechargeables in there. If you even still get 16500/17500 cells they are anything but up to date..



If you have 9v drop-in, you can run 2 x 16500 cells or 2 x 16340 + 1 spacer.

If you have a 6v drop-in, you can run 1 x 16650 + 1 spacer.

If you have a 3v drop-in, you can run 2 x AA (alkaline, NiMh, or Lithium primaries).

It's true that you're not always getting extra capacity over a G2, but you're definitely getting more options.

--flatline


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## sween1911 (Jan 9, 2019)

I made an attempt at a 1-cell G2, or "G1" light. I was surprised how thick the Nitrolon walls were where I cut it down.


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## tuelleric (Jan 9, 2019)

flatline said:


> If you have 9v drop-in, you can run 2 x 16500 cells or 2 x 16340 + 1 spacer.
> 
> If you have a 6v drop-in, you can run 1 x 16650 + 1 spacer.
> 
> ...



Agreed, 2 x AA is an option. Quite interesting, indeed..


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## ChattanoogaPhil (Jan 11, 2019)

I purchased my G3 about 10 years ago. It was on sale at MidwayUSA for $30 so I figured why not. But once I got it I asked myself, why? It was too big for carry, and the short runtime made it impractical for everyday uses around the house. However, I did like the extra length for handling. Anyway... it got tossed in a drawer and forgotten. Years later I came upon Malkoff. M61LL was the perfect solution. Three primary cells with twelve hours of regulated output transformed the G3 into the ultimate around the house kitchen drawer flashlight. From forgotten poor purchase to the perfect light... that's my G3 story.


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## flatline (Jan 11, 2019)

sween1911 said:


> I made an attempt at a 1-cell G2, or "G1" light. I was surprised how thick the Nitrolon walls were where I cut it down.



How were your results? Did it work out?

--flatline


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## bykfixer (Jan 11, 2019)

G2x Pro is a mighty fine flashlight that coincidently is nitrolon


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## flatline (Jan 12, 2019)

bykfixer said:


> G2x Pro is a mighty fine flashlight that coincidently is nitrolon



I think that was the light that started this thread...*looks back at post #1*...yup!

I don't have one, but it's on my list of lights to consider next time I feel like a new light. I love the yellow!

--flatline


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## bykfixer (Jan 12, 2019)

Low beam brings back memories of 3D lights with fresh leakers back in the day.

High beam is better than the numbers suggest. 

I have a couple for around the house use from 015 that still have the batteries they came with. They rarely get turned to high since the low is great for lighting under a sink, finding a crayon under the sofa...that sorta thing.


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## cp2315 (Jan 13, 2019)

I love my g2 and g2x pro lights. They are perfect for all kinds of uses, except maybe tasks requiring very long throws. 
Just now I watched a review video for g2x-mv. It is such a cute little light. Substantially smaller than regular g2x. I will get it as my next light.


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## sween1911 (Jan 14, 2019)

flatline said:


> How were your results? Did it work out?
> 
> --flatline



Yes it did... mostly. There was a thread on it somewhere... AH! Here it is... http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?222380-Surefire-mini-G2

(If I had to do it again, instead of cutting it near the head like the OP did (he used a lathe to precisely fit them together), I'd remove the metal sleeve first, cut it in half, cut the two halfs down until they were the right size, then cut the metal tube to size, THEN thread the pieces onto the metal tube with some epoxy, and flare the end of the tube to keep it together.)


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## flatline (Jan 15, 2019)

Just won a G3 on ebay. Wasn't actually expecting to win, but now that it's on its way, I guess I'll need to figure out what I'm going to do with it.

I have what I need to make 2xAA low voltage set up, but I like where my M31 is now. I'll probably throw one of my M61LL variants in it with a 16650 and a spacer.


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## flatline (Jan 21, 2019)

I've had the G3 for a couple of days now. It came with the original packaging and I have every reason to believe that it's authentic. I was expecting it to be identical to my G2 except longer, but it turns out that they vary in several ways.

1. the anti-roll mechanism on the G3 head is six flat surfaces at the base of the head exactly like on my 6P. The G2 head has 12 little rounded bumps instead.
2. "surefire" on the side of the body has a cross-hair between the "e" and the "f" on the G2. On the G3 there is nothing between the "e" and "f" but instead there are curves above and below "ef" that imply a circle. The waffle pattern is identical on both except that the G3 has 2 more rows of it.
3. the G3 has a notch at the tail end of the body (just like my 6P does). The Tail has a matching bump on it. The G2 is missing both of these.
4. the G3 tailcap has grooves that are about 80% the length of the tailcap. The grooves on the G2 are about 50% the length of the tailcap.
5. the end of the G3 tailcap says "USA" above the button and "WWW.SUREFIRE.COM" below the button. The G2 tailcap has no markings at all. The innards of both tailcaps look identical.

I'm assuming that this is simply the result of being produced in different years or on different assembly lines. I was just surprised to see the amount of variation.

I'm very pleased with the G3. The extra length is much more comfortable in the hand since it actually balances in the hand. The G2 balances on my index finger which makes me grip it harder. The extra length that makes the G3 feel so good in the hand is a bit of a problem when holstered on my belt. I actually had to take it off while driving. I was intending to use this as a house light, so this is not a deal breaker. Just disappointing.

I used it a bit with the P90 module in it just to experience it, but then threw my M31LL in the head, rolled some cardboard around 2 AA's, and fired it up. Works very nicely. I'll run it this way for a little while, but I plan to ultimately run it with a M61LL in it on a 16650 cell + spacer. The M31LL belongs to another light.

--flatline


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## flatline (Feb 7, 2019)

SG688 said:


> The Blackhawk X6P and X9P are made in Spain plastic incandescents using P60 size modules. I liked the aluminum X6 so much that I bought 3. Forward clickie tailcap and SF thread compatible.
> 
> $20 eBay. $36 Amazon




I got a X6-P off Ebay and it arrived today. The tailcap is definitely not thread compatible with my G2. The X6-P has more threads per inch than the G2. I do, however, like the forward clicky, so if the regular X6 is thread compatible with SF, I may pick one up just to put the tailcap on my 6P.

--flatline


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## castingseth (Feb 7, 2019)

I would love a nitrolon light with a decent LED and use an 18650. Perfect size for my pockets, heavy duty, and I have a bad habit of holding a light in my mouth... I truely loved my old G2 except the incand bulb and the batteries. Nitrolon just feels good in your hand.


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## wacbzz (Feb 7, 2019)

If you guys know of anyone selling a G3, let me know. I just put up a WTB...


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## ChattanoogaPhil (Feb 8, 2019)

Hey flatline,

Congrats locating a G3. Mine is as you describe other than the tailcap is marked only surefire.com. I purchased the G3 new from MidwayUSA nearly 10 years ago advertised as a "One Time Run". Maybe that accounts for the difference in tailcap markings. Mine came with a 105 lumen Xenon 60min runtime. IIIRC, there was also a 200 lumen Xenon version with a 20min runtime. Whew... that's a lot of CR123s to toss in the garbage every few minutes. I installed a M61LL.


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## flatline (Feb 8, 2019)

I'm not really a collector, but this thread inspired me to pick up examples of polymer P60 hosts. Here's the collection so far:

Nextorch GT6A
Surefire G2
Surefire G3
Brinkmann Maxfire LX
Blackhawk X6-P

Unless you're looking for a tactical light, the best value by far is the Nextorch GT6A. Anyone looking for a low power beater host should buy 2 or 3 of them since they're solid 18650 hosts with reverse clicky for only $8 each.

I now have more hosts than LED drop-ins, so I'm using some of these with the original incandescent bulbs. I had never really considered how heavy a Malkoff drop-in was compared to a bulb, but the change in weight and balance in these light-weight hosts is super noticeable. I will probably keep a bulb in the X6-P just because it's so light and balances so nicely in the hand with one.

The only polymer host that I know I'm missing is the Blackhawk X9-P, but I'm sure there are others.

--flatline


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Feb 8, 2019)

Yep! 

~ cG


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## scout24 (Feb 8, 2019)

castingseth said:


> I would love a nitrolon light with a decent LED and use an 18650. Perfect size for my pockets, heavy duty, and I have a bad habit of holding a light in my mouth... I truely loved my old G2 except the incand bulb and the batteries. Nitrolon just feels good in your hand.



I recently bought a Streamlight Polytac X. Tan, black head, 18650 or 2x123 power. So far so good.


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## Dave D (Feb 9, 2019)

It was a G3 that I rescued from the trash can at work that actually brought me to this site!!

Surefire sent replacement parts which got it back to original spec.

However it's currently awaiting a Malkoff M61LL and a pair of Keeppower 17500's, it also has a Xeno RG03 bezel and a McClicky switch fitted.

I also have a G2Z, but don't really like it, it sits in a draw without a drop-in!

I do have three different SF Nitrolon tailcaps though.













Tall one on left has a McClicky fitted, short one in the middle is from the G2Z and tall on the right is from G3.


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## flatline (Feb 9, 2019)

castingseth said:


> I would love a nitrolon light with a decent LED and use an 18650. Perfect size for my pockets, heavy duty, and I have a bad habit of holding a light in my mouth... I truely loved my old G2 except the incand bulb and the batteries. Nitrolon just feels good in your hand.




The Nextorch GT6A is a nylon bodied P60 host that takes 18650 and has a reverse clicky. It doesn't feel quite the same as your G2, but has some of the same advantages like being grippier than anodized aluminum and not feeling cold in your hand in cold weather. It's a little thicker than the G2 so it might not be quite as pocket-friendly, but it's only $8 and you can fit it with whatever P60 drop-in you prefer as long as the drop-in doesn't produce a ton of heat.

As someone else mentioned above, Streamlight makes the Polytac X which is just like their Polytac except that it takes 18650 cells and has a 2-way clip. I have the Polytac running on a 16650 cell and it's an excellent light so I would expect the Polytac X to also be an excellent light.

If there are other polymer 18650 lights, I'd love to know about them. Most of the polymer lights I know about were made for 2xCR123A and went out of production before 18650 moved beyond hobbyist lights.

--flatline


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## scout24 (Feb 9, 2019)

As a somewhat off-topic aside, I decided to test the PolytacX to asess it's potential as a shtf omnivore. I'm running a single Duracell primary 123 with a dummy cell to see how low the voltage cutoff is. So far, 3 hours in, it's still kicking out it's rated low level 35 lumens. So, 18650, 17670, 16650, 1x18350 with dummy cell, 1x16340 with dummy cell, 1x123 same way... I'll run it until it stops. It only likes button top cells, fwiw.

Edit- Almost 10 hours in, it's still better than half of the original low level output on a single 123 primary. :thumbsup:

Edit 2- 21 hours in, and we've stil got 5-6 lumens.


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## wacbzz (Feb 9, 2019)

flatline said:


> I'm not really a collector, but this thread inspired me to pick up examples of polymer P60 hosts. Here's the collection so far:
> 
> Nextorch GT6A
> Surefire G2
> ...



What about the Solarforce P1?


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## flatline (Feb 9, 2019)

wacbzz said:


> What about the Solarforce P1?



Somehow it stayed off my radar. Any recommendations on where to get a P1? My googling wasn't very effective...

--flatline


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## Timothybil (Feb 9, 2019)

castingseth said:


> I would love a nitrolon light with a decent LED and use an 18650. Perfect size for my pockets, heavy duty, and I have a bad habit of holding a light in my mouth... I truely loved my old G2 except the incand bulb and the batteries. Nitrolon just feels good in your hand.


I run my G2 with a 16650. A little less capacity, but still more than enough for me. Same thing for my 6p, but I like the Nitrolon better than just aluminum.


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## wacbzz (Feb 9, 2019)

flatline said:


> Somehow it stayed off my radar. Any recommendations on where to get a P1? My googling wasn't very effective...
> 
> --flatline



Sent you a PM. :thumbsup:


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## Dave D (Feb 21, 2019)

I couldn't resist getting another couple of G3's.

There is a German company that has them for 29.90 Euro's each (less than $34), they are the incan version with the plastic head.

These things are so easily upgradeable and will run on several different types of batteries, with the correct drop-in of course.

I just need to get some more McClicky switches and start looking for some more M61LL's! :thumbsup:


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