# Over-filled engine with Motor Oil



## Burgess (Sep 13, 2009)

Hello fellow CPF'ers --


Have a 1995 Ford Explorer, with 4.0 Litre V-6 gasoline engine. Low Mileage.


Due to a mis-communication ( :hairpull: ),

this crankcase was accidently* over-filled* with 1 Quart too much motor oil.


Is this a Serious Problem ? ? ?


Should i take it somewhere, and get it pumped out ?


Or can i just " Live with it " ?


Drove it 25 miles already, and i've detected " No Noticeable Problems ".



*Thank you* to everyone, for any answers & assistance you can provide.

lovecpf
_


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## Carbon (Sep 13, 2009)

Not a serious problem, but if it were me, I would pull the drain plug and drain approximately one quart out. Kind of hard to guess a how much a quart is, but keep checking the dipstick.


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## gswitter (Sep 13, 2009)

How many quarts does it normally take?

My car has an engine that is spec'ed to consume up to a quart of oil every 1K miles. It takes 4.25 quarts but I generally add a half to three quarters of a quart extra at oil changes to account for the consumption. It's never caused any problems. The engine has 185K on it now.


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## Dude Dudeson (Sep 13, 2009)

My understanding is the biggest hazard from overfilling oil is the crankshaft slapping against oil where there normally shouldn't be oil.

With 25 miles down you may be okay, unless a hill shifts enough oil to one side to get that "slap" - then bye bye crankshaft.

There could be other hazards I'm unaware of.


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## combinatorix (Sep 13, 2009)

You could very easily take it to any service station where they should be able to just take off the drain plug and let it drain to the correct level.

If you haven't noticed any problems, there's probably been no damage to the engine. Soaking the crankshaft a little bit won't make the engine happy, but it won't immediately damage anything either. If your oil pressure is looking too high, or you see any black smoke in the exhaust, then I would get it looked at immediately before driving again.


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## lctorana (Sep 13, 2009)

About 25 years ago, I overfilled the sump my sister's Ford Escort. I have never seen that much smoke in my life.

Check the dipstick. It shouldn't read much more than the "full" mark, if it does, drain some out.


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## EngrPaul (Sep 13, 2009)

It would be bad if you drove the car hard with this condition. The crankshaft could slap the top of the oil and create lots of bubbles, and then the oil pump woudn't be as effective as it should be because it's meant to pump liquid, not air. Chances are an extra quart didn't cause any damage.

You should drain the excess oil through the drain plug... which can be tricky to stop without being messy. You can also drain it all and refil with the proper amount of oil. You would be filling with less oil than usual without the filter change, usually the owner's manual tells you both capacities (with and without an oil filter change).


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## matrixshaman (Sep 13, 2009)

You could probably drain about a quart out through the drain plug without too much problem - just use rubber gloves and have an oil change drain pan or container. OR you could just change the oil filter which usually holds almost a quart of oil in it. Just put a new one on with out adding any oil and then run the engine for a minute and recheck your oil level. Should be close to right then.


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## QtrHorse (Sep 13, 2009)

That motor should take 5 quarts of oil. 

Have you checked the dipstick level to be sure it is overfilled?

If it were me and one extra quart of oil was actually added, I would get it drained. As already stated, the real problem is going to be possible aeriation of the oil which can cause problems.

You could do as Matrixshaman advised and just remove the oil filter if it is on the side of the motor. They do normally hold .5-1 quart of oil. 

Just take it down to your local Walmart and have them do another oil change for $30. If you take it to a mechanic, they are going to charge you at least that much just to drain one quart.


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## Search (Sep 13, 2009)

1) Drain all oil.

2) Buy more oil (The correct amount).

3) Mulligan.

4) Learn from mistake.



I have a better one.

Was getting ready to take my Mustang to the beach. I changed the oil and was going to weld a small exhaust leak on one of the manifolds. Well, I had it jacked up in the driveway and was fixing to go underneath to try and pinpoint the small hole.

Well, it slid off of the frame and went into the oil pan, destroying the oil pan, and releasing all of my oil onto the driveway.

A tow, a pulled engine, a new oil pan, new oil, and a new manifold later I learned to not trust a faulty transmission and a hill.


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## mossyoak (Sep 13, 2009)

Search said:


> 1) Drain all oil.
> 
> 2) Buy more oil (The correct amount).
> 
> ...



there is sooo much bad info in the thread its a wonder some even have cars that run. the above idea is the best idea.


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## Burgess (Sep 13, 2009)

Thank you, everyone ! :twothumbs


Yes, i get the picture. 


Ford probably had a *Pretty Good Reason* 

for putting those markings on the Oil Dipstick. 


I will get this issue resolved.


:thanks:

_


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## turbodog (Sep 13, 2009)

Everyone says a filter holds 1/2 to 1 qt oil. There's no way that's even close to true except on some of the really old filters that were HUGE.

Look at the outside size... Most modern filters will wholly fit inside a 1 cup measuring cup.

But, to specifically answer the initial post:

Drain it back down to the proper level. Bubbles can be introduced into the oil, which will hamper pumping efficiency and oil pressure.

Furthermore, more oil will be aerosolized (turned into an oil mist) and will have bad effects on your pcv system. To be safe, I'd change my pcv valve when this is fixed.

Try not to rev too high till you get this fixed.

rechanging oil = cheap
shortened engine life = not cheap


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## QtrHorse (Sep 13, 2009)

turbodog said:


> Everyone says a filter holds 1/2 to 1 qt oil. There's no way that's even close to true except on some of the really old filters that were HUGE.
> 
> Look at the outside size... Most modern filters will wholly fit inside a 1 cup measuring cup.


 
Not trying to start a arguement over how much a oil filter holds but take a walk down most any autoparts oil filter isle and look at the size of most oil filters. 

There are many that will hold less than .5 quarts but there are many that will hold closer to one quart.

I don't believe I have ever seen a oil filter that fits inside a 1 cup measuring device. Maybe a Smart car or a three cylinder but a 1 cup measuing device is tiny.


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## will (Sep 13, 2009)

Just a couple of comments 

Unless the engine is a dry sump system, ( it's not ) the crankshaft is already dipping into the oil in the oil pan. 

If it is grossly overfilled with oil, there is the possibility of getting oil into the combustion chamber resulting in a lot of smoke.

One extra quart of oil will probably result in a oil level increase of maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch

Once an engine is running, there is a lot of oil running through the upper part of the engine, in the heads and in other areas. 

The PCV valve is designed to work with oil vapor, it is supposed to recycle the air in the engine and burn off any vapors by introducing it back into the fuel intake system.

It's possible that the throttle body might have to be cleaned due to an excess of oil vapor. 

to be safe - consider this a rinse out, get an oil change and refill with the correct amount of oil.

ANY time you work on a car in the drive way - put blocks by one of the wheels that is still on the ground.

Don't rely on the emergency brake to prevent the car from rolling

NEVER go under a car supported only by a jack. add a jack stand, or a cinder block ( not the best choice )


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## lctorana (Sep 14, 2009)

will said:


> NEVER go under a car supported only by a jack. add a jack stand, or a cinder block ( not the best choice )


Never. Not ever. Jacks are for lifting the car, not supporting it.

We were notified of a fatality last year; a man was killed when under his car supported by jacks.


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## Search (Sep 14, 2009)

mossyoak said:


> there is sooo much bad info in the thread its a wonder some even have cars that run. the above idea is the best idea.



I hope that isn't sarcasm 

I've learned many times over that sometimes the best solution to a problem is to take everything back to square one and start over.


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## RA40 (Sep 14, 2009)

There are different ways to achieve the end result. For accuracy sake, I would completely drain and refill to the manufacturers spec. What oil is in the filter is of minor significance as it is usually a small amount. Even if they change the filter, a typical oil service outside the dealer is ~$25. Money well spent.


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## InTheDark (Sep 14, 2009)

It's a Ford, it's probably burned up that extra quart in the first 10 miles. 

Seriously though, how do you know it's overfilled? Have you checked the dipstick? If it's not showing above full, i wouldn't worry about it. Even if it was one quart over, an SUV like that probably hold 6 quarts or so, one extra quart won't kill it. If it makes you feel better you can drain a quart, but personally I wouldn't lose much sleep over it.


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## Flashlight Aficionado (Sep 14, 2009)

Re: Things I've learned the hard way . . .(Part 2)


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## fyrstormer (Sep 14, 2009)

The biggest danger to overfilling the crankcase with oil (aside from crankshaft damage? never heard of that before) is that the crankshaft will whip the oil into a foam (like Cool Whip, only not white), which will then fill the crankcase, and get sucked into the vacuum hoses through the crankcase ventilation system which is supposed to just suck burned oil fumes. Filling the vacuum hoses with oil foam can turn one-way valves into no-way valves, which can cause all kinds of secondary problems including but not limited to sensor contamination, sparkplug fouling, and loss of vacuum-assisted power brakes. It sounds extreme and most of it is, but it's still possible. Better to drain the oil and not take any chances.


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## LukeA (Sep 14, 2009)

Search said:


> 1) Drain all oil.
> 
> 2) Buy more oil (The correct amount).
> 
> ...



1. You were attempting this on a non-level surface.
2. You were only using the jack to support the vehicle, not jack stands.
3. You didn't chock the wheels.

It also doesn't sound like you had anything wider than your head under the frame, like the wheels, which is typically a good idea.


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## Superdave (Sep 14, 2009)

oil foaming is the only real problem, and it usually takes more than a quart to cause that. The oil pump can suck in the bubbles and lose prime, if it's a priority-main system you'll likely spin a rod bearing. Most modern engines have windage trays that prevent foaming, but with enough oil anything is possible. 


my ex's friend kept seeing the oil light on her mid 90's Intrepid so her husband kept adding a quart of oil at a time.. every couple days. Finally they called me when it wouldn't run anymore. I drained more than 2 gallons of oil out of it to get the level back to normal on the dipstick. All the plugs were fowled, compression test showed about 30 PSI in each cyl. 

i cleaned the plugs and with a can of starting fluid managed to get it running again.. it smoked like a train for a week after that. Once it stopped smoking they traded it in.. haha


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## mossyoak (Sep 14, 2009)

Search said:


> I hope that isn't sarcasm
> 
> I've learned many times over that sometimes the best solution to a problem is to take everything back to square one and start over.



no im serious, because its not exactly easy to put a drainplug back on wheile oil is coming out at quart every 10 seconds. and an oil filter doesnt hold a quart and itll leak out oil faster than the drainplug


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## HarryN (Sep 14, 2009)

I don't know about anyone else, but it is really hard to pull an oil drain plug and put it back on with oil flowing out - especially if you want a good seal. If you decide to go down this path, I would just drain it all, clean up the surfaces, close up the plug, and starting filling from the top again with the same oil. (not as much this time  )

Another path would be to just drop a line down the oil fill tube and suck some out. There are kits for doing this if you like that route, or a creative person can make a siphon with about 10 ft of 1/4 in plastic tubing. If too much oil comes out into the catch pan, you can always put some back in.

Some oil change places just pump it out from the top of the tube as well, and you might convince one to take out "some" oil if they are not busy and you hand the right guy $ 10.


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## Search (Sep 14, 2009)

LukeA said:


> 1. You were attempting this on a non-level surface.
> 2. You were only using the jack to support the vehicle, not jack stands.
> 3. You didn't chock the wheels.
> 
> It also doesn't sound like you had anything wider than your head under the frame, like the wheels, which is typically a good idea.



I was in the process of jacking it up. The transmission had gone out and I was on a VERY slight decline.

It came out of gear (the second time in a few months) and even though the E-brake was pulled it shifted just enough (a very little) to cause the stand to slip.

It was covered in oil from a previous adventure which I wasn't a part of which added to the slip.


I'm not an idiot, my number was just called for one of those stupid moments that no one believes wasn't my fault


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## QtrHorse (Sep 14, 2009)

mossyoak said:


> no im serious, because its not exactly easy to put a drainplug back on wheile oil is coming out at quart every 10 seconds. and an oil filter doesnt hold a quart and itll leak out oil faster than the drainplug


 
It is hard to drain a small amount of oil and then install the drain plug back without getting messy. It is honestly not worth the trouble. 

My oil filter holds just a tad more than a quart of oil after the motor has pumped it full of oil.


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## jzmtl (Sep 15, 2009)

Have you checked the dipstick yet? In my experience it always take more than the spec'ed amount to reach the full mark, so plus the trapped oil in filter you actually may or may not need redo the oil.



QtrHorse said:


> It is hard to drain a small amount of oil and then install the drain plug back without getting messy. It is honestly not worth the trouble.
> 
> My oil filter holds just a tad more than a quart of oil after the motor has pumped it full of oil.



Well in that situation you don't actually take the plug out. You unscrew it all the way but hold it there, then open it a bit like a hinged cap, position your hand so oil doesn't run down your arm.


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## lctorana (Sep 15, 2009)

jzmtl said:


> ...position your hand so oil doesn't run down your arm.


bet you learned that the hard way


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## MarNav1 (Sep 15, 2009)

Search said:


> I was in the process of jacking it up. The transmission had gone out and I was on a VERY slight decline.
> 
> It came out of gear (the second time in a few months) and even though the E-brake was pulled it shifted just enough (a very little) to cause the stand to slip.
> 
> ...


Just glad you weren't hurt or killed. Get ya some good wheel chocks too, very important. I'm so paranoid I leave the jack under even when its on stands. The only thing I completely trust is a good set of ramps.


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## QtrHorse (Sep 15, 2009)

jzmtl said:


> Well in that situation you don't actually take the plug out. You unscrew it all the way but hold it there, then open it a bit like a hinged cap, position your hand so oil doesn't run down your arm.


 
I have never been able to tighten a oil drain plug back while there was still oil in the pan without it running down my arm and or covering my tools in oil. 

I used a Fomoto oil drain valve for about a year but did not like how slow the oil drained out. It is a small lever drain valve you install instead of your standard drain plug. They are convenient and clean but if you change your oil a lot and in my case, the motor holds 15 quarts of oil so it seemed like eternity before the oil would completely drain.


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## jzmtl (Sep 15, 2009)

QtrHorse said:


> I have never been able to tighten a oil drain plug back while there was still oil in the pan without it running down my arm and or covering my tools in oil.
> 
> I used a Fomoto oil drain valve for about a year but did not like how slow the oil drained out. It is a small lever drain valve you install instead of your standard drain plug. They are convenient and clean but if you change your oil a lot and in my case, the motor holds 15 quarts of oil so it seemed like eternity before the oil would completely drain.



Well depends on the car, you'd have to reach around and grab the drain plug from above which is easier done on some than others. I've heard about the drain valve but never used it. Heard some guy hit something and snapped it while offroad, and had to be towed out.


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## Burgess (Sep 15, 2009)

Just an update . . . .


First, let me thank *all of you*, once again,
for your comments, advice, and suggestions.

:thanks:


To answer a question which was asked of me:

My Oil Dipstick showed about 35mm above FULL.


Wanting to avoid as much *mess* as possible, i searched on-line
and discovered THIS handy little device:

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/PEL-PL-2000/


Cost me $42, including UPS Ground shipping.

Ordered it very late Sunday night, and received it today (Tuesday) !


Even though it may *look* a bit "funky", it operates like a *charm*. 

Pumped out that "extra" quart of oil, with no mess at ALL.

Everything is now Back to Normal. 


Plus, i now have it to handle oil changes in my *other* gasoline engines.

Actually looking forward to trying this out with them. :thumbsup:



Thank you, guys !

:wave:
_


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## chmsam (Sep 16, 2009)

Over filling the crankcase will cause cavitation. Those bubbles in the oil will cause the oil pump to not function properly. The proper technical term for that is "bad mojo." As you've learned those marks on the dipstick are probably there for a reason.

Easier and cheaper to just dump the oil and start over. Charge it off to a learning experience. Spending more money on a gizmo to suck the oil out isn't worth it and could possibly (although maybe not likely) add another chance to contaminate the oil. But yeah, draining hot oil and sticking your hand back into it is not only not a hugely fun thing to do but will pretty much guarantee a bad seal for the drain plug.

And along those lines... many years ago a buddy put on a spigot-type drain plug from some company that sent him a catalog. Worked great for easy oil dumps. Especially handy when he ran over some brush and that conveniently popped the spigot open as he did. He didn't lose the engine but it was not something that painted a pristine environmental image. Luckily there was neither a fire nor loss of control from the oil hitting the tires.

Just another suggestion but in the old days I got into the habit of pre-filling the filter with oil when changing it (and the filter should be changed with every oil change). If the filter mounts at an angle (*&$#ing moron engineering school rejects...) then just fill part way as much as you can. Those few seconds w/o oil at start up after a filter change add up in the life of an engine.

As for crawling under any vehicle not on proper jack stands that have been correctly placed:

:duck:,  and :tsk:

A car on a jack with or without chocks just is not safe enough to crawl under.


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## matrixshaman (Sep 17, 2009)

turbodog said:


> Everyone says a filter holds 1/2 to 1 qt oil. There's no way that's even close to true except on some of the really old filters that were HUGE.
> 
> Look at the outside size... Most modern filters will wholly fit inside a 1 cup measuring cup. ...........



Since Burgess has the same basic engine/vehicle that I've owned I know the size of this filter and IMO it will hold close to a quart. That's why I mentioned it - as a 5 minute quick fix to the overfill.

Glad you found a good solution Burgess - sounds like a handy thing to have.


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