# ArmyTek Predator (XP-G R5, 1x18650 2xR/CR123A) Programmable: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS +



## selfbuilt (Jan 22, 2011)

*Warning: even more pic heavy thas usual. *







*Specifications (abbreviated):*

LED Cree XP-G (R5 with 1C tint) driven at 1.5A 
3 types of current stabilization are selectable by user: full stabilization (FULL), simple semi-stabilization as for the buck driver (SEMI) and stepped stabilization (STEP).
Long duration and the flat runtimes with FULL stabilization for one 18650 Li-Ion battery at each mode against the standard buck drivers.
Specially calculated long-range reflector intended for LED Cree XP-G
Light beam with the angle of 5 degrees for the distances of 200 meters (8 meter diameter of hotspot at 100 meters). Full spill is 24 degrees.
Changeable quantity of set output modes, and full adjustment of output levels (i.e. continuously-variable selection).
Voltage supply selection, which allows using batteries without protection circuit (PCB).
Temperature sensor to prevent overheating in extreme environments 
Max mode lacks thermal runtime limits.
Constant brightness without flicker effect.
Electronic protection against wrong battery installation.
Bezels made of solid stainless steel with gold-colored Titantium nitride coating 
Made of aircraft-grade aluminum T6061-T6, anodizing coating with hardness HV400, thickness 35-50um
Water resistance to IPX-8 standard
Uses 2xCR123A or rechargeable Li-ion 2xRCR, 1x18650
Tailcap lock-out
O-rings and threads are greased by Nyogel 760G. Tube (5ml) is included.
Estimated MSRP ~$149
The Predator is a new light from a new manufacturer, ArmyTek. And as you can tell from the stats above, it’s a very versatile one (this is the first time I’ve seen multiple user-configurable regulation patterns in a light oo. The multi-modes are also fully user-configurable.














Packaging is a stiff carboard box, with ArmyTek logos and graphic design all over it. Inside, the light comes packaged between two pieces of styrofoam, with a good quality holster with closing flap, wrist lanyard, spare o-rings, boot cap replacement cover, and a 5mL tube of Nyogel 760G (again with ArmyTek logo). The manual is available for download on their website.








From left to right: AW Protected 18650, ArmyTek Predator, 4Sevens Maelstrom G5, Lumintop TD-15, Ray Tactical X60.

*Predator:* Weight : 134.6g (no batteries), Length 153.9mm x Width 36.7mm (bezel)
*TD-15:* Weight: 139.2g (no batteries), Length 148.7mm x Width 37.8mm (bezel)
*4Sevens G5 *Weight: 145.5g (no batteries), Length 156mm x Width 38.9mm (bezel) 

Certainly well in keeping with others of the “thrower” XP-G class.










Nice touch the inclusion of Nyogel 760G – it’s one of my preferred flashlight lubes. 

On a side note, the threads of my sample were swimming in Nyogel – I had to wipe most of it off. You don’t need to use much – a little goes a long way. 


















Build quality is very high - the light has a substantial feel.

In fact, the actual surface feel is fairly unique - the body has a very matte finish anodizing that feels almost moulded. According to ArmyTek, the Predator has a much thicker and harder level of anodizing than most lights (i.e. 35-50 microns, compared to typical 15-25 microns). Although the light lacks knurling as such, grip is better than you would expect, thanks to the unique finish. Still, I found it somewhat slippery at times, especially when programming.

The bezel rings and clip are supposedly stainless steel with a titanium nitride coating for additional hardness (ArmyTek claims it is 10x harder than Type III anodizing). Apparently a more sandblasted titanium look is also available.

Lettering is sharp and clear, in bright white against the dark grey matte finish. 

Threads are anodized at the tailcap for lock-out.

The light can’t tailstand, despite the scalloped tailcap ring.

There is a raised contact disc in the head, so flat-top 18650 batteries work fine on my sample. :thumbsup:

I like the flat disc at the end of the tailcap spring - no risk of scratching your batteries.

Clip is removable (have to remove the o-rings first to get it off/on). Note the clip tends to swivel around the light unless the tailcap is screwed tightly on. There is a small notch in one area of the body which the ring slides into, preventing it from moving once the tailcap is screwed down all the way.










The Predator features the latest emitter (XP-G R5), in a deep smooth reflector. Although the reflector's max diameter a little narrower than the Maelstrom G5 or Lumintop TD-15, it is definitely deeper. I would expect excellent throw. 





Lumintop TD15 on the left, Predator on the right.

BTW, the red reflections you are seeing above are due to the red centering ring visible around the emitter (at the reflector opening). It also somewhat visible around the periphery of the beam, up close by the bezel. Below is a shot from my famed “integrating carpet”, to show you what I mean.  It is not otherwise noticeable in real use.






Which brings us to the requisite white wall hunting . All lights are on Hi on AW protected 18650, about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 





























































As you can see, the Predator throws very well. The main difference in the reflector design is that the Predator has a tighter and more defined hospot than other lights of the XP-G “thrower-class”. However, it also has a greater corona immediately around it. My sample has only the mildest evidence of the center-void darkspot common to XP-G lights with smooth reflectors (your experience may vary, however).

I've recently updated my 100-Yard Outdoor Beamshot Round-up, including the latest XP-G lights. Check out that round-up thread for more details on the testing method, plus higher quality JPEG images of all lights. For now, here is an animated GIF of relevant XP-G comparisons:






Since I was little off in my aiming of the lights, I decided to retest this recently on my replacement Predator:






Note however that the full snow cover causes a lot reflection and diffusion (both ambient light and the flashlight beam, leading to a less clearly defined hotspot).

*User Interface (UI)*

The manual for this light is 8 full-letter pages long, so I won’t be able to go through it all here.  However, the manual is a little unclear in places, so I thought I would summarize the main points. Note that the light is reasonably straight-forward to use once programmed, and has a complex and sophisticated programming interface (somewhat similar to the Novatac/HDS/Ra and LiteFlux lights).

_*UPDATE JUNE 12, 2011:* There have apparently been some tweaks and updates to the programming interface on the Predator. See this post and discussion thread from CPFer LightForce for a discussion._

In simple terms, the light is turned on/off by the forward tailcap clicky switch (press for momentary on, click for lock on). 

Output modes are arranged in what ArmyTek calls two “lines” (i.e. head tight for “First line”, and head loosened for “Second line”). Within each of these head states/lines, there are multiple modes that you can switch between. Switching is controlled by twist cycles of the head relative to the body (i.e. loosen/tighten or tighten/loosen to advance modes within each “line”). 

How many modes per line, and what they are, are fully user-programmable. What is rather unique about the Predator is that the precise regulation pattern (“stabilization”) is also programmable (more on that in moment …) 

To explain what you can do with the light, let me start with the default shipping settings. The light comes with two factory pre-set states, called “Military” and “Outdoor”. Military comes set by default, but you can switch between them in the programming menus.

Military is set with Full regulation, with the First line (head tightened) having three modes: Max (“500 lumens”/1.5A), “100 lumens”/250mA, and “7 lumens”/15mA. Second line (head loosened) has two modes: Strobe 15 Hz, and Firefly/“0.1 lumens”. Again, you switch between modes by tighten/loosen (second line) or loosen/tighten (first line) head twists in under 1 sec.

Outdoor mode uses Step regulation, with First line having 2 modes: “350 lumens”/1A, “65 lumens”/150mA and Second line having 3 modes: Strobe 15 Hz, “7 lumens”/15mA, and Firefly/”0.1 lumens”.

Note that I put the lumen values in quotes above, as they refer to emitter lumens, not actual OTF lumens (see my Summary Tables later on for more on that).

_UI Features_

So, what else can this light do? Well, to start, you can change any of those output modes to any level from Firefly to Max in the programming state (using a continuously-variable interface, with flashes at 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% output over a 40sec timeframe). 

In addition to constant output modes, you can select SOS, Beacon or Strobe mode. Within Strobe, you can set the frequency from 1 Hz to 50 Hz (claimed).

You can change the number of pre-set modes in First line from anywhere from 1 to 10 modes, and Second line from 1 to 5 modes (default is 2-3, depending on whether Outdoor or Military defaults are chosen).

You can set the auto mode-memorization feature for each line independently (i.e. remember last mode for both lines, neither, or only one or the other).

You can specify the battery voltage being used (2xCR123A 3V batteries, 1x18650 3.7V Li-ion, 2xRCR 3.7V Li-ion, 1x18650 LifeP04 3.2V). Unprotected batteries can also be used.

What is truly innovative is the ability to set three different regulation patterns for the light. FULL regulation is as you’d expect – perfectly flat regulation for as long as the battery can handle it, then an immediate drop to off or a low output state. SEMI regulation is what you typically find on a number of multi-power lights – the light maintains flat regulation for awhile, then drops into direct-drive as the battery power dwindles. STEP regulation is a similar to SEMI, but shows a step-down pattern of lowering outputs rather than a smooth drop-off. All of these patterns are shown in my runtimes graphs below.

_How to Set Output Levels_

To select a variable output level in the first line, start from head tight and loosen the head for at least 1 sec (i.e. wait for the light to switch lines), then immediate tighten, wait again for 1 sec (i.e. for the line to switch back), and then immediately turn off-on at the clicky. All the above has to be done in under 3 secs total, so timing is very tight (i.e. don’t delay on the head twist any longer than necessary to switch lines). It is highly unlikely that you would ever enter the programming state by accident!

The light will then begin ramping from Firefly to Max, which takes about 40 secs in total (with flashes at 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% output). Once Max output is reached, the light restarts at Firefly and cycles through again. Make your selection by a loosen-tighten head switch.






As you can see the output is not visually-linear across the ramp. The quarter percentage flashes thus seem to reflects actual drive currents. As such, you will have to be quick to select any of the truly low outputs. :sigh:

At the end of the ramp, the cycle repeats from low to hi again.

 Note that my testing has revealed a bug in the software in the initial batch of lights (subsequently confirmed by ArmyTek). If you leave the light in the continuously-variable output selection (or any other programming mode) for more than 2 minutes with no activity on your part, the light exits and _locks you out of these features permanently (i.e. can no longer enter programming or output selection)._ The light still functions normally for how ever it was previously set, but you can no longer program any changes. ArmyTek has fixed this bug on currently shipping lights, and is working to see if they can find a solution for existing owners. For current owners in the meantime, I recommend you set your output levels as quickly as you can. 

_How to Program the Light Settings_

To enter the general programming menus, you start in the second line modes. Do the same as the first line output selection above, only starting with the head loosened (i.e. tighten, wait 1 sec, loosen, wait 1 sec, click off-on – all under 3 secs in total). Once inside the programming state, you double-click the tailcap to advance through menu levels, and loosen/tighten or tighten/loosen the head to select the menu entry you want. Menu levels and sub-levels are presented as a series of bright flashes. Please refer to the manual for a description of the menus. 

If the above sounds complicated, that’s because it is. You can’t really re-program the light without the manual in front of you (unless you’ve memorized all the menu and sub-menu levels!). Basically, this will seem familiar to LiteFlux users (especially those that used the earlier twisty version of their programmable lights). But once programmed the way you want, the light is straight-forward to use (as described at the top of this section).

*No PWM*

Light has no evidence of PWM on any mode, leading me to believe it is current-controlled. :twothumbs

*Strobe/Beacon*

Beacon mode was 1 flash every 7 secs in my testing. 

Strobe speed in user-controllable, from 1-50 Hz (according to the manual). However, that’s not entirely true. First off, here is the default “Military” Strobe (which is reported to be 15 Hz, but was 12.5 Hz in my testing)






According to the manual, the strobe freq will change from 1Hz to 50Hz over 30 secs in the programming mode. In my testing, I found it took about 35 secs to run through the range. However, the ramping speed is far from linear – although it starts at 1 Hz and slowly increases, all the frequencies between 15-50 Hz are presented in the last 1-2 secs of the cycle (and the cycle restarts at 1 immediately after 50Hz is reached).

Despite repeated attempts, the maximum strobe speed I could detect was ~30 Hz, as shown below:










As you can see, the strobe went from 19Hz to 32Hz in about 400msecs (i.e. those are the same traces above, I am just highlight different frequencies over a 500msec period). I wasn’t able to capture any speeds faster than that. Of course, I don’t really see why you would want anything this high – by 50 Hz, you are getting into nearly PWM constant light frequencies. 

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have recently devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lighbox values to Lumens thread for more info.

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

*Effective November 2010, I have revised my summary tables to match with the current ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.sliderule.ca/FL1.htm for a description of the terms used in these tables.*















*
Note:* the table above is based on my original Predator sample. The replacement Predator ArmyTek has sent me (due to the circuit glitch described above) has lower max output, very similar to the TD-15. Throw is just slightly reduced from the first sample. [/I]

To get a better idea of how some of the pre-set modes compare to actual lumens, here is a comparison table:






*Output/Runtime Comparison:*

One of the most unique features of this light is the option to choose between 3 different regulation (“stabilization”) patterns. Here are some comparative runtimes on different battery sources, starting with 1x18650:






As you can see, FULL regulation gives you exactly that – perfectly flat regulation, followed by a sharp drop. Note that in some cases the light came back on in a low output level after the protection feature had been tripped. This effect was variable, and I suspect has to do with the cell recovering sufficiently to activate the light at a low level.

SEMI and STEP regulation seem to give very similar overall runtime results – the difference is just in the pattern of drop off once the light falls out of regulation. Both typically last longer than FULL regulation.

Note that the differences between regulation patterns at lower output levels are not as noticeable. It is really only on Max or near-maximal output levels where you can really see the difference.

Also, at least on 1x18650, there is no difference in output levels between the regulation methods.

In any case, I recommend you run the light in SEMI or STEP regulation, as they are the most efficient and won’t potentially leave you in the dark with little warning. :thumbsup:

Here’s how 2xRCR compare:






As before, runtime on FULL was less than SEMI or STEP. Although there was a brief step-down near the ends of the STEP run, this is only on the order of a few seconds, not many minutes. The key difference being STEP and SEMI drop down to a low level rather than abruptly shutting off as FULL does on 2xRCR. I again recommend SEMI or STEP. 

On my original sample, there was a slight increase in output at "350 lumens/1A" on FULL regulation on 2xRCR. I have re-tested the replacement sample, and it shows the expected consistent output level across all three stabilization settings. I have updated the graph above to show this revised testing result. As you can see, there is not much difference in the regulation pattern on 2xRCR at this output level. 

And now 2xCR123A:






Note that there is an interesting step-down pattern on FULL on 2xCR123A. But once again, I recommend you run the light on SEMI or STEP for maximum runtime without abrupt shut-down (i.e. especially as the light drops to lower outputs).

To compare to other lights, I’ve used SEMI regulation pattern for the comparison graphs below (except on Max, where I show both FULL and SEMI).

_Note that all the runtimes were performed on my first Predator sample. A second sample was received (due to the software glitch lock-out of my first sample - see User Interface discussion above), which showed slightly lower Max output, similar to the TD-15. _




























*Potential Issues*

As with all lights with complex programming modes, you will need to refer to the manual if you want to re-program any of the features or output levels of the light. Once programmed (or with the default set), the light is straightforward to use.

The programming modes can be a bit tricky to enter (i.e. timings are very tight, requiring multiple twists and clicks in a narrow time window). The switch is bit stiffer than average.

The body texturing is interesting, and helps with grip, but not as much as actual knurling would. The light can be a bit slippery, especially when doing repeated head twists quickly during programming. I found myself occasionally unscrewing the tailcap during programming (due to gripping too firmly during twisting), thus cutting power and accidentally exiting the menus. 

UPDATE: There was a bug in the circuit software on the initial batch of lights, causing you to be permanently locked out of the programming/output selection modes if you delay more than 2 minutes without making a selection (i.e. remain inactive for 2 mins). ArmyTek has fixed this software issue, and all currently shipping lights should be working fine. 

*Preliminary Observations*

The Predator is certainly an extremely sophisticated light for a first-outing. oo: Overall throw and output is right up there with other recent XP-G R5 “thrower” lights in this 1x18650/2xCR123A/RCR class. But what really distinguishes this light is its distinctive build and incredibly detailed programming interface.

Starting with the build, I quite like this “matte” finish heavy anodizing. It gives light something of a molded look and feel. I would like a bit of actual knurling though, as the light can still be slippery (which is a challenge when trying to program). The titanium nitride coating of the stainless clip and bezel rings is also very distinctive! It’s a small touch, but I am also impressed with the inclusion of Nyogel 760G with the light.

The sophistication of the programming interface is really the key aspect of the light. You can set as many pre-set levels as you like (from 2-15), with an extremely wide range of constant outputs and special modes available (e.g. strobe from 1 to 30+Hz, etc.). This light has at least as many options as other sophisticated programmable lights I’ve tested (e.g. Liteflux, Novatac, etc.)

A truly unique feature of this light is the choice of three stabilization (regulation) patterns, over a wide range of battery types. This is not something I’ve seen before. oo: The main difference is really that FULL typically leaves you abruptly dropping to zero output with no warning. SEMI and STEP are still regulated in a very flat-output manner - they just drop off slowly as the battery nears depletion. And as a general rule, SEMI and STEP are slightly more efficient at all levels on all batteries - I recommend you stick with one of these two modes.

I am also glad to see that throw and output/runtime performance is right on par with other lights of this class.  Over the range of outputs I’ve tested, performance seems comparable to good current-controlled lights. oo: This is rather surprising, since every other light I’ve tested with a continuously-variable output-selection mechanism uses PWM (which is less efficient than current-control). I can detect no signs of PWM with my oscilloscope-sound card setup, and the output/runtime performance tracks with a good current-controlled light (like Fenix, Klarus, etc.). That is very impressive, given the incredibly wide range of outputs on the Predator compared to other limited multi-level lights. :twothumbs

There is really little to criticize here, except perhaps the complexity of the programming menus (which require the manual to be on hand). But that is to be expected on any light with this many features and controls. That being said, the manual is a little confusing in places, and could benefit from a professional re-write. Also, having done a lot of re-programming over my testing, I will say I find it a challenge to consistently enter and move through the menus given the tight timings and the need for both head twists and double-clicks. The relatively stiff switch and lack of body knurling doesn’t help. :shrug:

But in actual use (once programmed), I find the light fairly easy to use. It has great throw and output/runtime performance. Coupled with an incredibly sophisticated programming interface and loads of features, you get a lot for your investment here. :wave:

----

Predator provided by ArmyTek for review.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 10, 2011)

_Written by *selfbuilt* on 01-23-2011 02:31 PM GMT_



mvyrmnd said:


> I think, though, with the programming bug you found, I'll wait for the next round of lights, save me going too slow and killing it.


I've updated the review, as ArmyTek has corrected the software glitch on all currently shipping models. I've updated the review, as ArmyTek has corrected the software glitch on all currently shipping models.

Part of the reason why it's good to wait for detailed reviews of lights before buying (I guess that makes all of us beta-testers ).



FireHawk007 said:


> Great review. Selbuilt. Wow, the Predator is so bright compared to the other 2. Now, I'm tempted to add this light to my ever-growing collection.


Well, not necessarily. The first Predator sample was brighter on Max in my lighbox, but roughly consistent on ceiling bounce and throw with the Lumintop TD15 (see the Summary Table). The replacement was pretty much exactly the same as the TD15 in my lightbox, and slightly lower on my ceiling bounce and throw. I left the original numbers in the review as all my output and runtime measures had been done on the first sample. Well, not necessarily. The first Predator sample was brighter on Max in my lighbox, but roughly consistent on ceiling bounce and throw with the Lumintop TD15 (see the Summary Table). The replacement was pretty much exactly the same as the TD15 in my lightbox, and slightly lower on my ceiling bounce and throw. I left the original numbers in the review as all my output and runtime measures had been done on the first sample.

Given the natural variation within each emitter output bin, I would essentially consider the Predator and TD15 to be roughly equivalent in max output and throw.



AardvarkSagus said:


> Fantastic review of what really looks to be a bit of a revolutionary light. You can't criticize this light for offering you options, that's for certain. Excellent work Selfbuilt.





brightnorm said:


> Truly excellent review! The way you organize and present information is particularly useful and easy to understand. The light looks like a winner (as soon as they fix the circuit gremlin in batch 2).


Thanks, this was a much longer review than usual - but there was a lot more to talk about (and test!). Thanks, this was a much longer review than usual - but there was a lot more to talk about (and test!). :sweat:

After this, I will be going back to my more standard length reviews ... 

_Written by *selfbuilt* on 01-25-2011 07:26 AM GMT_

FYI, I have updated the multi-light comparison runtime graphs to include traces of the Predator on FULL as well as SEMI, for max output (where the difference is most noticeable).


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## selfbuilt (Mar 10, 2011)

> Written by *dudu84* on 01-25-2011 10:04 AM GMT
> 
> Your hours (or perhaps days?) of work are greatly appreciated, Selfbuilt! Outstanding as usual!
> 
> ...





> Written by *gunga* on 01-25-2011 10:12 AM GMT
> 
> I have a review too...
> 
> ...





> Written by *selfbuilt* on 01-25-2011 02:23 PM GMT
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Written by *gunga* on 01-25-2011 03:14 PM GMT
> 
> One trick, if you are not planning on tailstanding often, you could just unscrew the rear bezel 1 turn and it should tailstand reliably. Just screw it back when done, or add an o-ring spacer.
> 
> Oh and thanks Selfbuilt! Your reviews are the gold standard, I just try to supplement with my viewpoints from playing with far too many lights!





> Written by *jhc37013* on 01-25-2011 09:43 PM GMT
> 
> Nice review on what seems to be a very solid light, are you using comparative data for the G5 from the XP-G R5 or S2 model?





> Written by *dudu84* on 01-25-2011 10:41 PM GMT
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## selfbuilt (Mar 10, 2011)

_Written by *selfbuilt* on 01-26-2011 07:24 AM GMT_



jhc37013 said:


> Nice review on what seems to be a very solid light, are you using comparative data for the G5 from the XP-G R5 or S2 model?


As labelled in the runtime graphs and summary table, I am using the R5 version. My sample is from the first shipping versions. As labelled in the runtime graphs and summary table, I am using the R5 version. My sample is from the first shipping versions.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 10, 2011)

> Written by *LightForce* on 02-01-2011 01:29 PM GMT
> 
> Very good light indeed. After throw off strobo from second line (firefly left alone) and after addition of fourth brightness mode of ~800mA to line 1, it's just ideal to me. The light let you know blinking, when your unprotected cells meet end of runtime. You must set proper cut-off voltage in the menu, though.
> 
> here are my shots of the Predator for you:





> Written by *brightnorm* on 02-02-2011 11:03 PM GMT
> 
> I received my Predator earlier this afternoon. Unfortunately there was no nyogel, o-rings or tail boot , but when I tried the light later I was impressed. It appears that the Predator's reflector is deeper than that of the G5 and TD-15. Am I correct about that? If so, perhaps that is how it can it can project such a clearly delineated circle.
> 
> ...





> Written by *samm* on 02-03-2011 12:55 AM GMT
> 
> Great review, thanks, an amazing amount of good info.





> Written by *mar3* on 02-03-2011 02:16 AM GMT
> 
> What a nice What a nice torch





> Written by *selfbuilt* on 02-03-2011 09:47 AM GMT
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Written by *billywilly02341* on 02-06-2011 05:58 PM GMT
> 
> seems like that metal clip is prone to bending and then being unable to bend it back.





> Written by *selfbuilt* on 02-08-2011 07:31 AM GMT
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Written by *Ymerej* on 02-18-2011 03:01 AM GMT
> 
> Nice review Selfbuilt. :thumbsup: I just bought one because of this


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## selfbuilt (Mar 10, 2011)

The main review post has been updated with the final review text.

The thread discussions have been *fully restored* from the search engine cache data (thank you tandem!).

Please carry on!


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## andrewnewman (Mar 29, 2011)

Ordered a Predator on 24-March. Got the first notification that my carrier was DHL later that day. Never got a tracking number but the light arrived today (29-March) and surprised me when I got home. Thumbs up ArmyTek & DHL for very fast service from HKG.

The shipping container had a big sticker that the carrier (HKG Station) had "inspected" the light. It was in a DHL body bag with the box completely destroyed and the Nyogel (predictably) missing. Thumbs down DHL. It looked like these guys were employing that Russian guy on the ArmyTek video! Even so, the light was unharmed.

Initially no hope of tailstanding. Then I noticed that the spare switch boot appeared to be somewhat smaller. I took off the retaining ring and removed the installed switch boot and found that it was in fact about 2mm longer and had an aluminum slug in the end that improved the feel of the switch. The smaller switch cover couldn't accommodate the slug and still operate. It works fine with out the slug but it's a bit squishy and hard to operate. I wouldn't want to use it this way with gloves on. Even so, I value tailstanding so the shorter boot stays.

I wanted to program it with two lines of (500/100) and (firefly/strobe), turn off mode memory, set stabilization to step and configure it for an 18650 LiIon. All of this was pretty easy but I discovered that if I turned off mode memory first, I could only program the first position in each line. With mode memory on it got a little confusing since I was essentially reversing the second line. I ultimately prevailed. Unfortunately firefly mode has a nasty and consistent preflash. It's not super bright but enough so that I would be inclined to place the bezel against my leg when actuating in firefly mode.


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## torch127 (Mar 29, 2011)

I got one. It came via DHL and my nyogel was also missing  It throws well.


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## CLHC (Mar 30, 2011)

That's quite an in-depth review I must say! Just curious to know what's the "easiest" way to order said flashlight other than PayPal?


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## andrewnewman (Mar 30, 2011)

CLHC said:


> Just curious to know what's the "easiest" way to order said flashlight other than PayPal?



Right now I believe the distributer doesn't have any North American outlets and is shipping all of his lights directly from HK. I believe he only takes Paypal. There is a long thread on this in the Armytek forum on the marketplace.


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## MaxdOut (Mar 30, 2011)

Hi selfbuilt,
Nice review! From your picture above that shows the head contacts, inside the head there is a gold ring which is what I guess is used to determine head tightness and appears to be part of the board and not metal. Is there a concern that this will wear out? I ask because in your picture there is already a groove being cut into the material.


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## andrewnewman (Mar 30, 2011)

MaxdOut said:


> Hi selfbuilt,
> Nice review! From your picture above that shows the head contacts, inside the head there is a gold ring which is what I guess is used to determine head tightness and appears to be part of the board and not metal. Is there a concern that this will wear out? I ask because in your picture there is already a groove being cut into the material.


 On my sample that contact ring is a pretty standard gold plated surface affixed to the circuit board. As many twisty lights use a similar mechanism it is, in my experience, common and reliable. The reason there are marks on it is because the body tube that presses against it probably has some very minor surface imperfections that cause some initial circular wear. After that, it wears very slowly. I've never had that part fail on any light thus far. It's more likely that someone might accidentally crack the circuit board if they got too enthusiastic tightening the head down.


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## MaxdOut (Mar 30, 2011)

andrewnewman said:


> On my sample that contact ring is a pretty standard gold plated surface affixed to the circuit board. As many twisty lights use a similar mechanism it is, in my experience, common and reliable. The reason there are marks on it is because the body tube that presses against it probably has some very minor surface imperfections that cause some initial circular wear. After that, it wears very slowly. I've never had that part fail on any light thus far. It's more likely that someone might accidentally crack the circuit board if they got too enthusiastic tightening the head down.


Thank you for that explanation. I am a little new to this so was uncertain and could not tell from the picture. I am very interested in the light but the cost was a little more than I was intending on spending but wanted to make sure that if I did purchase the light it would last for some time.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 30, 2011)

MaxdOut said:


> Nice review! From your picture above that shows the head contacts, inside the head there is a gold ring which is what I guess is used to determine head tightness and appears to be part of the board and not metal. Is there a concern that this will wear out? I ask because in your picture there is already a groove being cut into the material. [/SIZE]


I wouldn't worry about it too much, for the reasons andrewnewman pointed out. I will also add that I have done a LOT more head switching on my samples than most would do in a lifetime. Every runtime required not only output selection, but battery and regulation settings as well (i.e. I would always reconfirm each one, on each run, to be sure). Will all the general testing as well, you can rest assured mine went through the ringer. 

In fact I had to re-lube both samples several times during testing, that's how much wear I was putting on it. Never had an issue. On a side note, sorry to hear the nyogel does not seem to be included any more.


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## MaxdOut (Mar 30, 2011)

Thanks selfbuilt. I always find your reviews very informative. I used it to make my first purchase which was the Ray X60 (still waiting on it though) and was planning on another purchase (also based on your review for the Jetbeam III M) but then I saw this so debating on what to buy next. So many choice so little money.


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## Mikellen (May 31, 2011)

Hi selfbuilt, is there any "parasitic drain" on this flashlight?

Thanks.


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## selfbuilt (May 31, 2011)

Mikellen said:


> Hi selfbuilt, is there any "parasitic drain" on this flashlight?


No, because it doesn't use an electronic switch. When clicked off, there is no standby current.


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## LightForce (Jun 11, 2011)

What is more, the firefly mode probably has lower current draw than standby current of many of lights. 

I'm Sorry to post in your thread selfbuilt, but I can't start a new thread here.
I think that my post is informative enough to be created here.
I get recently a new version of Predator, with updated software (SW 1.2) And I wrote quick quide through new functionality of the updated UI. The flashlight changed slightly in construction also. Please follow my link to ArmyTek sales subforum in CPFMP for my entire thread.

Here is my thread:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...t-looks-like&p=2670912&viewfull=1#post2670912

Cheers,
Damian


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## selfbuilt (Jun 12, 2011)

LightForce said:


> I get recently a new version of Predator, with updated software (SW 1.2) And I wrote quick quide through new functionality of the updated UI. http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...t-looks-like&p=2670912&viewfull=1#post2670912


Thanks for link, I'm sure everyone here will be interested to learn of the updates to the software.


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## labmanone (Jun 20, 2011)

Just wanted to let everybody know I ordered a armytec and the last one I got was shipped ems carrier and the nyogel made it to the usa. Just took around a week to get here.


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## kalifornian (Jun 23, 2011)

Great review Selfbuilt. Any thoughts on the High CRI option?


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## selfbuilt (Jun 23, 2011)

kalifornian said:


> Great review Selfbuilt. Any thoughts on the High CRI option?


Would be interesting to test. Armytek has informed me there will be more lights coming for review, but I don't have any details yet on models or timelines.


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## TyJo (Jun 24, 2011)

kalifornian said:


> Great review Selfbuilt. Any thoughts on the High CRI option?


I just got the high CRI v1.2. The programming UI is a little challenging, but I think I have it down now. I was rewriting the manual in my own words as my own programming reference.... if it turns out OK I might post it in a new thread. I have found a few other things as well. I love programmable lights. Hopefully selfbuilt can review a v1.2 with a high CRI.


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## kalifornian (Jun 24, 2011)

selfbuilt said:


> Would be interesting to test. Armytek has informed me there will be more lights coming for review, but I don't have any details yet on models or timelines.


 
Would love to find out how much more color rendering it has over the cool LEDs.


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## firelord777 (Jul 23, 2011)

Hey Self built,

I have just finished reviewing the ArmyTek Predator SMO vs. OP, and it took alot of work. I can't even begin to imagine all the work you have to do!!!

I respect your hard work, but would like to request you check my review and give a bit of good 'ol constructive critisism:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ator-Review-Smooth-reflector-with-Orange-Peel!!!

Thank you.


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## Phil40000 (Aug 28, 2011)

Bought this light about a month ago and it has proven to be one of my best buys. The switch, light levels, and layout are perfect for what i use my lights for. The beam is a very tight flood which again suits me and goes much further than a lot of other bigger lights i own (almost as far as Fenix TK60). I bought a ThruNite Scorpion 2 with the 'Turbo' head and the XM-L beam is just too floody with no penetration compared to the Armytek. I am just so glad i read this review and decided to buy it, i have just sold my new Scorpion as (forgive the pun) it could not hold a candle to the Armytek as far as i am concerned. If i could only pick one medium/small (2 x 123cell) light then it would be this one. I am really picky with my gear but from the super low light levels to the smooth reflector this light does it for me.

Regards,

ArmyTek company HQ
Wat Wen Wong district
China

































Only joking! Actually there is one big problem with this light and that is the fact that i need 4 weeks intensive training just to understand the UI. Setting it up is like being on that gameshow 'The krypton Factor' (remember Gordon Burns?) with its no margin timings and multi-twists. It is a portable DUI test for the masses, it does not even come with any instructions for chrissakes. I have fumbled through using Selfbuilts instructions as best i can but i am going to print off the instructions in broken no-sense translated chinglish from the ArmyTek site and get stuck in. The light still rocks though.


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## Vedak (Aug 31, 2011)

Thanks for this fantastic review! I've had my Predator for about a week now, although the batteries (18650) showed up just today. It took me about an hour to really grasp the menu (short term memory), but after playing with it for a few more hours I feel comfortable with it. Althought theres no way I will ever memorize the menu by heart.

I absolutely love this light! and was considering purchasing a second one with plane bezels to keep as a spare like in my edc bag.

I was also wondering, is there a way to know whether or not you have version 1 or 2 of this light? Mines shipped only two weeks ago, so I'm sure it's the second version. Although I'm still curious. 


Thanks!


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## selfbuilt (Aug 31, 2011)

Vedak said:


> I was also wondering, is there a way to know whether or not you have version 1 or 2 of this light? Mines shipped only two weeks ago, so I'm sure it's the second version. Although I'm still curious.


I have the original V1 (my review was completed before the first batch shipped). I know they updated the interface somewhat on later versions (1.2?), but I haven't tested one to compare.


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## firelord777 (Aug 31, 2011)

I have the v1.2 and the way to know is that the 1.2 has g.109.01


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## Vedak (Aug 31, 2011)

Thanks for the reply. Mines only shows "G109.01", the the missing "." after the G make any difference?


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## GulfCoastToad (Aug 31, 2011)

Wow. Definitely saving for one of these. I will go 18650 for sure.


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## dajabec (Sep 1, 2011)

Vedak said:


> Thanks for the reply. Mines only shows "G109.01", the the missing "." after the G make any difference?


 
I don't think the dots matter, but if you can use the voltage meter you have V2 for sure.


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## firelord777 (Sep 3, 2011)

Oh, man, sorry buddy, my apologies, the period after the G was a typo. Here, as long as it looks like this: G109.09, then you have the V1.2!

Again, my apologies,

Best wishes, Firelord777


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## NOREAT (Sep 12, 2011)

Does anyone have the high CRI, the XP-G R4, or the orange peel version?


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## TyJo (Sep 13, 2011)

NOREAT said:


> Does anyone have the high CRI, the XP-G R4, or the orange peel version?


I have the High CRI OP version.


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## NOREAT (Sep 14, 2011)

TyJo:

I would assume that the OP has significantly less throw than the SMO?

How is the color for the high CRI?

Thanks!


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## TyJo (Sep 14, 2011)

I love the color of the high CRI. It isn't as warm as my 4sevens Quark warm or the warm MCE emitter I put in my Fenix TK30. Tint is subjective obviously, so if you don't like warm tints you might not like it. I have heard some complain about how warm the HighCRI XPGs are, but I think they are great.

I ordered the smooth reflector and received a defective light so they sent me another one. The replacement had the OP reflector, I decided to keep it because I liked the beam and I have found I prefer a mix of flood (or larger hot spot) and throw in my lights rather then pure throw. It can definitely throw well, what it sacrifices in throw it makes up with the wider hot spot. If throw is very important for your usage I'd say go with the smooth reflector.
EDIT:
My only issue with the light was the tail switch was hard to activate and it would not tail stand. I solved this by using another manufacturers switch boot. Now the switch has the perfect feel IMO and it tail stands easily.


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## NOREAT (Sep 18, 2011)

So it is not nearly as warm as an incandesant? I love the warm tint of incans, and was hoping that this would be somewhat comprable-ish. So far, all the LED light I own (a pair of Mini-Maglite LEDs, and a Surefire G2X Pro) are much too blueish, to the point that I still like incan D-cell Maglites.


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## TyJo (Sep 18, 2011)

NOREAT said:


> So it is not nearly as warm as an incandesant? I love the warm tint of incans, and was hoping that this would be somewhat comprable-ish. So far, all the LED light I own (a pair of Mini-Maglite LEDs, and a Surefire G2X Pro) are much too blueish, to the point that I still like incan D-cell Maglites.


I don't own any incans. I would say it is similar to an incan, but perhaps not as warm. Check this site out to get some comparisons.


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## NOREAT (Sep 18, 2011)

Thanks! That's a beautiful tint. I think this decides it for me!


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## Phil40000 (Sep 19, 2011)

I have used my Predator tonight to walk the hound and it is the light that ticks more boxes for me than any other i have. The throw is amazing but still with some useful spill, the low, low setting is one of the lowest i have seen in a light this size, the ergonomics are bang on and the light is really grippy due to the special coating used. I was using it tonight thinking how lucky i was ordering this light on a hunch after reading some reviews on here. Hell, the light even looks fantastic with the gold bezel etc. Whether it was superb planning or a bit of luck with several key factors coming together in one light i don't know but this is a great light.


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## VLAD1690 (Dec 7, 2011)

This light looks awesome. I ordered one from the Armytek website a few days ago and paid via paypal. I haven't been sent an e-mail confirming my order or that the light has shipped. I sent an e-mail to Armytek and have not gotten a response. Should I be concerned or is this customary for Armytek?


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## TyJo (Dec 7, 2011)

VLAD1690 said:


> This light looks awesome. I ordered one from the Armytek website a few days ago and paid via paypal. I haven't been sent an e-mail confirming my order or that the light has shipped. I sent an e-mail to Armytek and have not gotten a response. Should I be concerned or is this customary for Armytek?


I've contacted them a few times and they have taken between 1-3 days if I recall correctly. You can also send them a private message over at the marketplace and/or post in their forum. They might be backed up on orders, their posting activity at the marketplace has seemed to slow down. If you don't hear from them in a day or two I would start exploring other means of contacting them.


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## tobrien (Dec 9, 2011)

I'm sold, BUT I wanna see some good comparison photos of the silver vs. black vs. gold bezels. anyone have some good shots of what all three look like next to each other? 

also, this light lacks a rubbery grip feel, correct?


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## firelord777 (Dec 9, 2011)

I made a review comparing a gold OP and a black SMO, i can pm yoi if you would like to see some pics. 

Basically, the gold is very shiny, elegant and attract's attention. The black looks very stealthy, sleek and well, the bezels haven't suffered a scratch from all the "testing" I do on the wooden part of my bed. Boy, are these things sharp for what theyre meant to be.

You'll like it, rest assured. Splendid piece of technology, although, something you should know about the finish is that:

Lets just say, I had some problems at home, and so I had quite a not so good adventure out in the city in the middle of the night. On my brief trip, lets say there are many hostiles I encountered, and so, I always had my predator in my hand, set to strobe, while my TK41 and other heavier lights were in my backpack. Needless to say, when I finally returned home, and after a small conversation with a LEO, I noticed the body of the predator had some paint smeared off. It was just some streaks of lighter black, and on my hand was filled of black paint. So lesson of the day here is , running from something is not a pretty smart answer, and exccessive sweat from your hands is not good for the predator's unique finish, although it is good at resisting scratches.

Best wishes, Firelord


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## firelord777 (Dec 9, 2011)

tobrien said:


> also, this light lacks a rubbery grip feel, correct?



About the feel,

Its a bit weird, in a sense that it is very smooth, but grippy at the same time. When I hold it underwater, it doesn't lose any grip, oh, and I know I mentioned above that sweat "tarnishes" the finish, but dont worry about water, I ve swam with the predator.


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## tobrien (Dec 10, 2011)

firelord777 said:


> I made a review comparing a gold OP and a black SMO, i can pm yoi if you would like to see some pics.
> 
> Basically, the gold is very shiny, elegant and attract's attention. The black looks very stealthy, sleek and well, the bezels haven't suffered a scratch from all the "testing" I do on the wooden part of my bed. Boy, are these things sharp for what theyre meant to be.
> 
> ...





firelord777 said:


> About the feel,
> 
> Its a bit weird, in a sense that it is very smooth, but grippy at the same time. When I hold it underwater, it doesn't lose any grip, oh, and I know I mentioned above that sweat "tarnishes" the finish, but dont worry about water, I ve swam with the predator.


thanks a lot for all the information and input, you rock! 

don't worry about PMing me pics, though, I've made up my mind to get the matte black finish based on what I believe was your review I saw last night (I'm pretty sure it was yours... it was the review with the bathroom illumination shots!) and that matte black looks *good*!

I'll probably buy an orange peel version in black for myself for Christmas. Thanks man!


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## firelord777 (Dec 10, 2011)

Ok bud, yes, that was the review, and you'll love your new toy, I'm sure of that!

Best wishes, Firelord


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## tobrien (Dec 12, 2011)

firelord777 said:


> Ok bud, yes, that was the review, and you'll love your new toy, I'm sure of that!
> 
> Best wishes, Firelord


thanks man


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## firelord777 (Dec 13, 2011)

No problem.


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Feb 1, 2012)

Granted, ArmyTek is the first to offer three modes of regulation. But LED Lenser provides two modes on models equipped with the "Advanced" version of company's Smart Light Technology ("Advanced SLT"). From their website: "You can choose between the Energy Saving mode, which optimizes burning life, and the Constant Current mode with electronically controlled, continuous light output." ".."


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## selfbuilt (Feb 1, 2012)

Paul_in_Maryland said:


> Granted, ArmyTek is the first to offer three modes of regulation. But LED Lenser provides two modes on models equipped with the "Advanced" version of company's Smart Light Technology ("Advanced SLT"). From their website: "You can choose between the Energy Saving mode, which optimizes burning life, and the Constant Current mode with electronically controlled, continuous light output." ".."


Interesting, I hadn't heard of this feature set before from LED Lenser. Hunting around for a review though, you can see from HKJ's overview of the M14 that it isn't really as advertised on the website (i.e. more like two differing step-down patterns). The Armytek light reviewed here offers three flat stabilized regulation patterns (including one step-down option). 

Note by the way that this review is over a year old now. I know Armytek has since come out with additional models, but I haven't tested any samples as yet.


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## jamjam (Jun 1, 2012)

Really like this light especially the degree of customization it offer. However, anyone feels that the double o-ring make it really hard to twist the head for mode change? Even more so when doing multiple twist for setting up the advance setting. I removed the inner o-ring and its a lot easier to twist now, just worry if it will jeopardize the water-proofness of the light. I didn't get the nyogel since the UPS here refuse to let it on the plane, so I'm using nitecore silicon grease that I got locally. Anyone wanna share their experience regarding this issue?


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## firelord777 (Jun 2, 2012)

Hey jamjam,

HJK, IIRC, or might be wrong, but I just remember seeing someone that took out one o-ring and claimed it was much smoother and all. I think it will be just fine with one o-ring, but I remember mine was a bit resisting on the twists, so I put lube and it was good to go (as in smooth)

Just saying here, cheers


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## Atakdog (Oct 27, 2012)

Just looked up the manual on their website. if you think new Eagletac lights are complicated go and read it yourself. This light should be the dictionary definition of programmable!
On another note; if anyone has this light, how long do you think it took you to initially set it up?


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## firelord777 (Oct 28, 2012)

It comes preset already, which is currently how I have mine set They did all the work for me, but different people like different things, so maybe you will set yours up differently. It's not as hard as I looks, I've played around with it a few times, but always went back to the original presets

Any other questions feel free to ask


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## Lou Minescence (Oct 31, 2012)

Atakdog said:


> Just looked up the manual on their website. if you think new Eagletac lights are complicated go and read it yourself. This light should be the dictionary definition of programmable!
> On another note; if anyone has this light, how long do you think it took you to initially set it up?



About 2 hours. Once you figure it out it gets easier. I still need a manual to remember the sequence.
Understanding some of the terms is confusing. Example : "line 1 and line 2" should be "head tight and head loose". These directions helped me :  http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...myTek-Predator
Time will tell but the Predator is one of my favorite lights.


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## jedibataru (Nov 25, 2012)

My Armytek Predator 1.2 looks different with in your pictures. Is any other models of Predator besides that in the pictures?


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## selfbuilt (Nov 25, 2012)

jedibataru said:


> My Armytek Predator 1.2 looks different with in your pictures. Is any other models of Predator besides that in the pictures?


Well, this review is almost 2 years old now, so it's quite likely the currently shipping predators have gone through some changes. I don't have any more recent information, though.


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## dajabec (Nov 26, 2012)

The circuit is basically the same, but the body has a few differences. I outlined them a while back at the following link budgetlightforum.com/node/7529

Mainly, the clip is tighter, the tailcap is flatly recessed not scalloped, and the head is wider (thicker bezel with same reflector).


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## Interhead (Dec 6, 2012)

Can't find anything on forum for this armytek predator model, thinking of getting one.
Is this a new version...
*ArmyTek Predator X G109.01 v2.0 Cree XML U2 1C 8/55 SMO LED 
*LED: Cree XML U2 1C Cool White 5500k LED, 760 LED lumens


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## sp5it (Dec 9, 2012)

Interhead said:


> Can't find anything on forum for this armytek predator model, thinking of getting one.
> Is this a new version...
> *ArmyTek Predator X G109.01 v2.0 Cree XML U2 1C 8/55 SMO LED
> *LED: Cree XML U2 1C Cool White 5500k LED, 760 LED lumens


Would be nice to se side by side beamshots 
I'm thinking about it also, but not sure G2 or XM-L.
Mike
Edit: Beamshot: http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/beamshot-vergleiche/11381-beamwald-waldshots.html


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## The_Driver (Dec 9, 2012)

deleted


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## phantom23 (Dec 9, 2012)

sp5it said:


> Would be nice to se side by side beamshots
> I'm thinking about it also, but not sure G2 or XM-L.
> Mike


XP-G2 will give you much more throw than XM-L.


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## tobrien (Dec 9, 2012)

phantom23 said:


> XP-G2 will give you much more throw than XM-L.



^^ this

i have an XP-G2 Predator and it's phenomenal


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