# Will this HID set work for Thor mod?



## Smood (Feb 6, 2013)

I am looking to do a Thor HID mod, I know I need an H4 HID bulb and a ballast but I was hoping if you guys could help let me know if these are ok options:

50 watt kit here: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TANDQI/?tag=cpf0b6-20

Or to make it cheaper:

35 W Ballast: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VGM51W/?tag=cpf0b6-20

with http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VILJ8C/?tag=cpf0b6-20

Also maybe order a bulb from here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-HID-Bulbs...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb5061dbb&vxp=mtr

And this ballast: http://www.ebay.com/itm/35W-HID-REP...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35be8d87d5&vxp=mtr

I know 4300K is a better pure white but couldn't find any on Amazon. Anyhow anything else I need (besides a spacer?). I tried searching but couldn't find if anyone put up a guide on how to do it. Anyone know of such a thing?

Thanks!


----------



## Blueknight (Feb 6, 2013)

I sent you a link in PM. take a look.


----------



## BVH (Feb 6, 2013)

A 55 Watt "fast Bright" brand ballast and bulb kit is what I would do. 5000K color temp. It will give you about 50 Watts at the bulb and it will be fully bright in 1 second, peaking to 3 times brightness in 3 seconds then back to normal brightness.


----------



## Smood (Feb 6, 2013)

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm thinking of going for a 55W ballast. How long do you think the runtime will be with 55W on the thor battery?

Also can you guys comment on the conversion itself? How hard is it to do? What tools will I need? Thanks so much!


----------



## BVH (Feb 6, 2013)

I'd guess about an hour, give or take if it's a 7 AH SLA. Tools to remove the bezel, crimpers to connect power to the ballast (or you could solder and shrink tube the splice) some way to secure the ballast and ignitor to the light. Make a couple of metal straps, or find a place to wedge it in. It's not going to take much in the way of tools. Be sure to try different positions of the lamp in the reflector well to check focus. If you can, use a target 50' or better away and go for the smallest hotspot.


----------



## Smood (Feb 7, 2013)

BVH said:


> I'd guess about an hour, give or take if it's a 7 AH SLA. Tools to remove the bezel, crimpers to connect power to the ballast (or you could solder and shrink tube the splice) some way to secure the ballast and ignitor to the light. Make a couple of metal straps, or find a place to wedge it in. It's not going to take much in the way of tools. Be sure to try different positions of the lamp in the reflector well to check focus. If you can, use a target 50' or better away and go for the smallest hotspot.



Oh I can't use the original battery in the Thor? Would this work? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QBZA0E/?tag=cpf0b6-20


----------



## BVH (Feb 7, 2013)

Smood said:


> Oh I can't use the original battery in the Thor? Would this work? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QBZA0E/?tag=cpf0b6-20



Yes, you can use the OEM battery. I remember my Thor batteries being a 7 Amp Hour SLA. Is yours different?


----------



## Smood (Feb 8, 2013)

BVH said:


> Yes, you can use the OEM battery. I remember my Thor batteries being a 7 Amp Hour SLA. Is yours different?



I don't know since I didn't buy the Thor yet. I wanted to first see if I could do the mod fairly easily before buying everything.


----------



## Smood (Feb 10, 2013)

BVH I understand I'll need some kind of spacer to get the bulb in the right position. Any idea where I could buy one of those (I don't have tools to make a custom spacer). Could I get something that works from walmart?

Besides crimpers, and tools to remove the bezel any other tools that I would need?


----------



## BVH (Feb 10, 2013)

You may or may not need spacers/shims. Thin copper washers available at most hardware stores are a good starting point. If they don't fit completely around the lamp flange and into the reflector's well, you can sometimes break them in half and use the two halves on each side and it works fine. Can't think of any other tools needed.


----------



## Smood (Feb 10, 2013)

BVH said:


> You may or may not need spacers/shims. Thin copper washers available at most hardware stores are a good starting point. If they don't fit completely around the lamp flange and into the reflector's well, you can sometimes break them in half and use the two halves on each side and it works fine. Can't think of any other tools needed.



Ok thanks BVH. But in terms of how to connect the bulb and what wires I connect where... the technical details. Is there any resource I can refer to, to help me out? I've never done an HID mod so I'm a total noob.


----------



## Blueknight (Feb 10, 2013)

Sorry the site didn't work out,but glad you found that complaint site. Glad I haven't ordered from them yet. So I guess the search is on again.


----------



## BVH (Feb 10, 2013)

Smood said:


> Ok thanks BVH. But in terms of how to connect the bulb and what wires I connect where... the technical details. Is there any resource I can refer to, to help me out? I've never done an HID mod so I'm a total noob.



The ballast will have 2 cables coming from it. One cable with a pair of wires in it will obviously connect directly to the bulbs' two wires. The other cable will have negative and positive wire with small spade connectors IIRC. You'll need to find the positive battery wire coming from the on/off switch and connect it to the + ballast input connector and find the battery negative wire coming from the battery and connect it to the - ballast input connector. That's pretty much it. If you need, snap a pic once you get it open and you get your kit and you can be directed.


----------



## Smood (Feb 11, 2013)

Great thanks BVH, I'll post some pictures if I have questions once I get the setup. Have your or anyone else bought from ultrahid.com? I can get a 2x H4 HID set with slim ballast for $50. But just wondering if its a legit site.

Also is the igniter part of the ballast or something I have to buy separately? Thanks!


----------



## BVH (Feb 11, 2013)

On the slim ballasts, the ignitor is that small square'ish box in the middle of the output cable. I can't recommend the fast bright (fast starting) ballast highly enough. Spend the extra money and have your light over 100% brightness is less than 2 seconds instead of a 10-15 second time to full brightness. Have not bought anything from Ultrahid. I've bought lots of stuff from Distantxtremes.com but I don't see them there any more. Check out this site: ww.xenon-man.com/English/Digital_Ballast_Fast_Bright.html


----------



## Jarski (Feb 11, 2013)

What about 70w fast start ballast in thor, will it get damaged by heat it produces if I put it inside the host? Thinking about building a "cannon" light if I can find cheap thor type host in finland. Is 7ah sla adequate to run it?


----------



## BVH (Feb 11, 2013)

70 Watt in Thor works fine. The 7 AH SLA is "probably" OK if in new condition. I would guess maybe 20 - 25 minutes run time. Heat should be OK. You could stick some fireproof blanket material behind the reflector for improved protection.


----------



## Smood (Feb 11, 2013)

BVH said:


> On the slim ballasts, the ignitor is that small square'ish box in the middle of the output cable. I can't recommend the fast bright (fast starting) ballast highly enough. Spend the extra money and have your light over 100% brightness is less than 2 seconds instead of a 10-15 second time to full brightness. Have not bought anything from Ultrahid. I've bought lots of stuff from Distantxtremes.com but I don't see them there any more. Check out this site: ww.xenon-man.com/English/Digital_Ballast_Fast_Bright.html



I don't see an option to buy the fast bright ballast BVH.

Also one other question. Can I use pliers to connect the power to the ballast rather than buying an actual crimper (just trying to save money)? Thanks!


----------



## Smood (Feb 11, 2013)

What about this seller on aliexpress selling a fast bright ballast? 

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Top-...rror-cancelling-10-pcs-per-lot/565713164.html

Does that look good?


----------



## BVH (Feb 11, 2013)

Pliers will work so will soldering them. here's another site: I don't know if you can buy only one ballast/bulb or not. You'll have to call and ask. ww.longshotlighting.com/collections/fast-bright-hid-kits.

You might also try calling distantxtremes.com 888 462 5884


----------



## Smood (Feb 11, 2013)

In case I don't get a fast bright ballast, this could be an option. Another builder on a laser forum got an HID from here. I can get a single 55W H4 HID + Ballast for $30.

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-35W-55W-Single-Motorcycle-HID-Kit


----------



## BVH (Feb 11, 2013)

IIRC, over on HID Planet forum (HID headlights forum) at least a year ago, DDM was not going to sell HID stuff any longer. Might be real old stuff or they changed their mind? Stick with a fast bright.


----------



## Smood (Feb 11, 2013)

BVH said:


> IIRC, over on HID Planet forum (HID headlights forum) at least a year ago, DDM was not going to sell HID stuff any longer. Might be real old stuff or they changed their mind? Stick with a fast bright.



What do you think of the fast bright ballast I posted thats from an aliexpress seller?


----------



## BVH (Feb 11, 2013)

That's not the same product. I only know and have tested the Fast Bright brand. Did a video too of its' start up with a Luxmeter.


----------



## Smood (Feb 14, 2013)

Ok I can do a video but will need to get my hands on a luxmeter.

Will these bi-xenon's be ok for the mod? http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2x-5...ENT-Bulb-Size-H4-H13-9004-9007/631094920.html

Thanks


----------



## Smood (Feb 14, 2013)

Also I know this one isn't fast bright, but i'm just wondering will it work? Its an AC kit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HID-Xenon-Conversion-Replacement-55-Watt-SLIM-Ballast-/120741777762

I'd rather get a basic ballast for less and shipped to me fast so i can begin building. Then after some time I will get higher end ballasts.


----------



## BVH (Feb 15, 2013)

It should work fine.


----------



## Smood (Feb 15, 2013)

BVH said:


> It should work fine.



Thank you BVH. I went ahead and ordered another pair off ebay with bulbs. I know its not the top end but lets see if it works. Even if its slower warm up its ok for me for now.

I got the Thor also and its amazing. Its so impressive when you see it in person and its surprisingly light for its size.


----------



## Smood (Feb 17, 2013)

I've opened up the Thor, removed the H4 halogen bulb and had a look inside. It looks identical to FritzHD's pictures as below.

http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb403/fritzhid/HIDs/IMG_2475.jpg

Theres 3 connectors, 2 coming from the outer switches so presumably the high and low beam functions and then one black connector that is presumably the power. I will likely be receiving my bulb and ballast in 3-4 days so I just wanted to get prepared so I can install it relatively quickly when arrives.

My question to BVH (thanks for being so kind and helping me so much) and other members is how exactly do you connect the black power wire to the ballast?

I got this picture of the wiring of an H4 HID here: http://www.philsuslow.com/phil/misc_forum/hid-bi-xenon/IMG_6374.JPG

Do I have to cut and strip the thick black cable from the ballast and then crimp that to the black wire coming from the Thor as shown in the first picture?

Thanks for the help!


----------



## BVH (Feb 17, 2013)

I've not worked with a Bi-Xenon before so maybe Fritz will chime in here?


----------



## Smood (Feb 17, 2013)

The one I ordered isn't a bi-xenon though its just a normal 55w low beam hid.

Link to the one I ordered: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251187047625?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## BVH (Feb 17, 2013)

Oh, ok. You'll use only 1 of the 2 switches. Choose either one. Positive wire from battery goes through a 10 Amp fuse to one leg of your switch. The other switch leg goes directly to the + ballast input small spade connector in the plastic connector. It doesnt matter which wire goes to which spade terminal on the switch. if the switch has 3 spade terminals, Just use the same two already being used. Negative cable from battery goes direct to the - ballast input small spade connector in the plastic connector. You need to retain the positive and negative wires from the charging pin connector back to the battery if you want to keep the ability to charge the battery with the wall wart.


----------



## Smood (Feb 17, 2013)

Ok thanks so much BVH! To clarify a few things.

Do I have to buy a 10 amp fuse or does it come with the HID kit? Or is the fuse already in the device? I do see a red wire coming from below the circuit board going to 1 leg of the switch as well as another red wire soldered to the same position with a spade connector on the end that originally connected to one of the plugs of the halogen bulb. Do I connect that spade connector the + ballast input?

Theres then a black (I assume negative) wire coming from the circuit board and ending in a spade connector (this one originally connected to the halogen bulb plug as well). Is this the connector that goes into the -ve input of the ballast?

Maybe these wires coming from the circuit board ending in spade connectors are something else and not the battery lines and I have to open up the inner black compartment to fully expose the battery? I do see the battery and it has a red and black wire but they don't appear to be mobile. I would have to open the black plastic divider to fully visualize them.

I'll try to take a picture to show you. Thanks so much! Once I get this project done I'll try to post picture and maybe do a video showing the performance and instructions to help others.


----------



## Smood (Feb 17, 2013)

Here are some pictures (I know BVH and many of you are experts of this light but I just thought it might help to have a picture up so we can better relate things):
Here is the main shot: http://i46.tinypic.com/ml13ja.jpg
You can see there are 2 of the red wiring ending in spade connectors coming from each of the switch legs. There is 1 red wire running from the circuit board to 1 of the switch feet. There is also a red wire running between the feet of each of the 2 switches connecting them. There is a black wire ending in spade connector coming from the circuit board (sorry the circuit board looks washed out here, but its at the 5 o clock position in this picture).

Picture of the switch legs: http://i47.tinypic.com/1zejq5z.jpg

Closer look at the switch legs: http://i48.tinypic.com/zl83l4.jpg

View deeper into the light of the battery and the 2 wires under the plastic divider that seem fixed in place (light pulling doesn't dislodge them): http://i48.tinypic.com/55rpl1.jpg

Thanks I hope this clarifies things on my light.


----------



## BVH (Feb 17, 2013)

Smood said:


> Ok thanks so much BVH! To clarify a few things.
> 
> Do I have to buy a 10 amp fuse or does it come with the HID kit? Or is the fuse already in the device? I do not remember if the Thor had an automotive-type fuse right off the + terminal of the battery. You really should have a fuse in-line so if there is not one, you should buy an automotive in-line fuse holder - either the older cylindrical type or the newer spade type. The HID kit will not come with one. Install it inline between the battery and the switch. If that is more work than you want to do, then you could install it between the switch and ballast but that leaves part of your circuit unprotected.  I do see a red wire coming from below the circuit board going to 1 leg of the switch as well as another red wire soldered to the same position with a spade connector on the end that originally connected to one of the plugs of the halogen bulb. Do I connect that spade connector the + ballast input? The focus makes it difficult to really pinpoint where the wires are going. But suffice to say, all you really need to do is connect one of the two red spaded wires to your ballast + input. Pick the one from the switch you want to use. Cut or de-solder the other one to keep things clean and neat.
> 
> ...


----------



## Smood (Feb 21, 2013)

I hooked it up as you said BVH and it worked!!!!!!!!!!! Man this is so awesome. I love it! So pumped! Oh and I didn't add any fuse to the light so it must have had it.

Ok 1 thing I noticed was when the bulb went on there was this whining sound... is that normal? 

I put it all in the Thor and tried to get the reflector back on but it doesn't fit now, I think the wiring from the HID is too bulky so I'm going to have to find a way to mod the inside to make it fit. Anyhow I held it all together with the HID through the reflector and the beam was very powerful. Hitting some outside trees about 100m away lit them up nicely. The beam itself though isnt the prettiest, it has some black parts it in and I guess thats either because to position of the HID is not right or the HID's metal arm itself leads to imperfections in the beam. I am not sure how other people spaced the HID to be further in. When I connected it, it was flush in the hole of the reflector so I couldn't push it in further unless I cut the plastic base of the bulb and pushed it in more.


----------



## Smood (Feb 21, 2013)

Ok now I managed to get it all to fit together well (just had to adjust the ballast a bit and it fit together nicely). It was almost as if the Thor was made with HID modding in mind with the spot behind the reflector to house the ballast lol.

1 thing that I think could improve the beam is changing the base of my bulb. The base of mine is black plastic and thus creates a black hole right in the center of the reflector. If I used some kind of reflective material to cover that I would probably get a better and brighter beam. I guess aluminum foil would be a quick and dirty solution?


----------



## BVH (Feb 21, 2013)

Congrats on firing it up! The fact that it lights up does not mean it has a fuse and holder. It will fire with or without it. You should check and add one if it doesn't. Does your bulb have the same base as the original halogen bulb? It should fit right into the reflector well just as the old bulb did. It sounds to me like what you're describing is the "doughnut hole" from the bulb not being optimally focused. Many times, focusing requires moving the bulb "out" of the reflector by very small amounts. Have you tried moving the bulb in and out by hand while the light is on, pointing at a target 20' distant and before it gets hot? (be sure to never hold the bulb until about 15 seconds after it starts up so you don't get hit with 30+ Kilovolts) Also, the thor reflector will probably show "rings" as it is not a high dollar unit. The whining is completely normal.


----------



## Smood (Feb 21, 2013)

Thanks for the reply BVH! I don't think I can check if it has a fuse because I cannot remove the battery since it has a metal bracket that is welded into the flashlight frame.

Ya I think its a focus issue but the thing I was saying before is that the bulb base is wider than the hole in the reflector so it wont allow me to pass the bulb anymore after the base contacts the reflector as a slide the bulb in place. When I do, do this the bulb is all the way in the reflector though. 

What is the danger of not having the fuse + holder?


----------



## BVH (Feb 21, 2013)

If the HID bulb base is different than the Halogen bulb base that you took out, then you got the wrong bulb, unfortunately. HID bulbs come in the same exact bulb base styles that Halogen bulbs do. You just ordered or got the wrong one. It is pretty much impossible to get a decent focus unless the front face of the bulb base sits against the bottom of the reflector well. You need to ID the bulb base style number and get yourself the correct HID bulb.

If there were to be a short circuit in the ballast, wiring or other circuitry, then you risk burning wires and possibly the plastic Thor body without a fuse. It's just the right and safe thing to do.


----------



## Smood (Feb 22, 2013)

BVH said:


> If the HID bulb base is different than the Halogen bulb base that you took out, then you got the wrong bulb, unfortunately. HID bulbs come in the same exact bulb base styles that Halogen bulbs do. You just ordered or got the wrong one. It is pretty much impossible to get a decent focus unless the front face of the bulb base sits against the bottom of the reflector well. You need to ID the bulb base style number and get yourself the correct HID bulb.
> 
> If there were to be a short circuit in the ballast, wiring or other circuitry, then you risk burning wires and possibly the plastic Thor body without a fuse. It's just the right and safe thing to do.



I am pretty sure I got the right bulb. This is the one I got.

http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00ICeTBzRMaDcp/HID-Xenon-Lamp-H4-HB2-.jpg

It does sit flush in the reflector. It simply can't be pushed through the reflector bulb anymore than when its in and flush. Also I took the metal shield off of it.


----------



## Blueknight (Feb 22, 2013)

HI Smood, not that I am an expert on this by no means but try matching up the bulbs side by side to see where the halogen filament and the HID nodule line up. Just a thought.


----------



## BVH (Feb 22, 2013)

As Blueknight said, if the base is identical and fits all the way into the floor of the reflector hole as did the Halogen bulb, then compare where the halogen filament is and the HID bulb round arc chamber is and they should be the same height measured from the front face of the plastic base. Basically, the round HID arc chamber needs to be exactly where the Halogen filament was.


----------



## Smood (Feb 23, 2013)

Here is the H4 that was orginally in the Thor: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COBLKW/?tag=cpf0b6-20

And the H4 HID bulb I have it as indicated in my prior post.

I will try to compare the bulbs more as you guys suggest and take some pictures. But to clarify, the base is pretty much the same except the HID base is plastic and the halogen one is metal.


----------



## BVH (Feb 23, 2013)

Lay them side-by-side with the front faces of both bulbs even-steven then snap a pic so we can see the filament and arc chamber.


----------



## Smood (Feb 23, 2013)

Ok here are some pictures. I am sorry about the quality but its the best I can do with all I have which is my cellphone camera.

Halogen and HID side by side pics:

http://i45.tinypic.com/xn4svt.jpg

http://i45.tinypic.com/27zvwwz.jpg

The Halogen in the reflector: http://i49.tinypic.com/ddosy0.jpg

The HID in the reflector: http://i49.tinypic.com/s5wtgx.jpg


----------



## BVH (Feb 23, 2013)

The arc chamber looks to be at least 1/8", more like 3/16" further away from the face of the bulb base as compared to the Halogen. You most likely will not be able to shim this particular bulb back far enough to focus while it is still contained within the reflector "well"/hole. The focal length of the reflector is too short for that bulb. You may have to hunt around for another bulb (asking sellers to do some measuring) but I'm not sure if you will find anything shorter to work. I remember that with H3 based bulbs, they do come in a "long" and "short" version.


----------



## Smood (Feb 23, 2013)

BVH said:


> The arc chamber looks to be at least 1/8", more like 3/16" further away from the face of the bulb base as compared to the Halogen. You most likely will not be able to shim this particular bulb back far enough to focus while it is still contained within the reflector "well"/hole. The focal length of the reflector is too short for that bulb. You may have to hunt around for another bulb (asking sellers to do some measuring) but I'm not sure if you will find anything shorter to work. I remember that with H3 based bulbs, they do come in a "long" and "short" version.



This is an H4 bulb. Are you saying I have to get an H3 bulb? The reason I got an H4 was because FritzHD used an H4 in his Thor mod, but his was an H4 Bi-xenon so I don't know if that changes the arc chamber position. 

BVH didn't you do the Thor mod? What HID bulb type did you use? Thanks.


----------



## BVH (Feb 23, 2013)

No, No, I was just using the H3 as an example of one model of an HID based bulb that comes in two different lengths. Other's have modded Thors to HID so maybe someone will chime in as to where they got the bulb.

It's been a long time but I don't believe a modded my Thors to HID. I had them in my very early CPF days and was waiting for member "Newbie" to come out with his "boost board" to get a full 14 Volts to the Halogen bulb. I modded my Costcos which are different.


----------



## Smood (Feb 24, 2013)

I talked to FritzHD and he said that he soldered a fuse to the charging board so I guess I will have to put one in there. But I need to get one first. Any recommendations for a site to get one?

I did a few beam tests after everything was taped in and screwed in and at first I was super disappointed because the focus was way off as you predicted. So I took your advice BVH and I turn it on and cautiously adjusted the HID bulb until I had a nice focus and that was achieved while pulling the bulb out approximately 1 cm until the extensions on the base of the HID were touching the rim behind the reflector (hard to explain), but then I taped it there with duck tape, put it all back together and took it outside. Big difference, it was nice and focused with a nice beam to the sky and lighting up targets at about 100m well.

But I had to admit that I was slightly disappointed by the brightness. Now it could be because I am in a bad location right now (traveling for studies) which is not that dark (right next to parking garage and a bunch of lighting) and also I don't have a frame of reference to compare (my next best light is a Skyray STL-V2 thats back at home) so I can't say for sure if its under performing or if it is indeed performing well. I really hope the guy I got these ballast and bulbs from didn't screw me and give me a 35W one (it says 55W on the ballast). I wish I had a light meter to measure the lumen output.

Anyways when I get back home in a week I will do some better testing comparing it to my Skyray and in darker environments and will get some shots so I have a better idea of how it performs. I guess the one frame of reference I have are FritzHD's pictures. The one that really impressed me was the 100 feet shot which light up the silo like crazy (http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb403/fritzhid/silo100S.jpg). But again thats only 30 M. At 30 M my light does a pretty good job and thats being in a fairly bright night environment with the parking garage and other lights etc. He was in some dark farm.

Ok I wrote too much, sorry, thanks BVH!


----------



## Smood (Feb 24, 2013)

What do you think about this Light meter?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005A0ETXY/?tag=cpf0b6-20


----------



## Smood (Feb 24, 2013)

I was just watching some of the ebay HID lights like the 85 watt one and it didn't seem that impressive to me either. Its 8500 lumens apparently but the powerful LED throwers out there seemed more impressive to me in videos I've seen.

Take a look at this 85W HID: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=NJBWU0KndMk#t=280s

I certainly think my Thor can do better than that. Maybe its just the camera settings?


----------



## Smood (Feb 25, 2013)

I took the light out again tonight and I have to say I change my mind on it. This light is extremely impressive. I didn't realize it before but this thing throws insanely well. I am still in the same bad place for long distance beam shots but the distant structures I did hit lit up very very well. Probably the further target that I let up very well was about 200 feet away.

Anyhow thanks a lot BVH, I made a new thread dedicated to beamshots here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...non-(my-basic-Thor-mod)&p=4147999#post4147999


----------



## Smood (Feb 27, 2013)

Hey I ran my HID in my light for about 3 minutes consistently and then the light began flickering so I turned it off. Why is this happening? Is it because my ballast is poor?

Edit: I am starting to suspect it might be a low battery since I tried it on my fresh ballast and got a similar problem. I am going to charge my battery for a few hours then test it out. Will report back after.


----------



## Blueknight (Feb 27, 2013)

Not sure what battery you have, But the batteries I have are SLA 3AH and 7AH and I charge them up no less that 12 hrs when they need it. That way I know they have a full charge.


----------



## Smood (Feb 27, 2013)

I think the SAL 7AH is in the Thor. Wow 12 hours is quite some time. How much runtime do you get on a battery like that and what output are you using (ie. what type of HID?).


----------



## Blueknight (Feb 28, 2013)

The 7AH SLA I have is right at 2.5-3 yo. It is in a 20million cp Professionals Choice spotlight with a 120/60 w bulb and I get about a 20 min run time. The 3AH SLA is in a stanley HID0109 and the batt is about the same age as my 7AH. The run time on the Stanley is down to about 15 mins now.


----------



## Smood (Feb 28, 2013)

Blueknight, those are some pretty bad run times... What do you think the 7AH SLA runtime be if it was connected to an HID?

Oh and an update, lack of charge was the problem. I charged the battery for 12 hours as blueknight suggested and now the light works perfectly and seems even brighter than before! I really think this is a true 55W HID now.


----------



## Blueknight (Feb 28, 2013)

I would think if the 7AH SLA was new and connected to an HID,I think 45-60 mins run time would be a fair bet,maybe a little longer. My Stanley is a 35W HID but as mentioned,the battery is getting old now.When new I got about a 30 min run time but remember the battery is only 3AH. I'm hoping sometime soon to buy a 75W hid kit for my Professionals Favorite 20 million spotlight.


----------



## Smood (Feb 28, 2013)

Blueknight said:


> I would think if the 7AH SLA was new and connected to an HID,I think 45-60 mins run time would be a fair bet,maybe a little longer. My Stanley is a 35W HID but as mentioned,the battery is getting old now.When new I got about a 30 min run time but remember the battery is only 3AH. I'm hoping sometime soon to buy a 75W hid kit for my Professionals Favorite 20 million spotlight.



Hrm, it seems the charging time is not very good compared to the runtime you get. Definitely makes me see the utility of a high powered LED light. Probably takes what like a few hours to charge 3-4 18650's even 3100 mah and even on turbo modes they will last at least an hour on many high powered lights like the Tk75.


----------



## Blueknight (Feb 28, 2013)

Well like I said,the batteries are 2.5-3 years old,maybe older due to the time they sat on the shelve before I bought the lights.That's why the run time is so short. The 20 million cp Professionals Favorite has a halogen bulb,so run times will be short and that's one of the reasons I want to do an HID mod to it,to get a longer run time. Yes LEDs have a longer run time because they are much more efficient. But I like big lights,so for awhile I will stick with the HIDs.


----------

