# Emergency/Survival Flashlight Challenge



## LightningFox (Feb 27, 2010)

Hey guys, I'm a newbie here. :twothumbs
In light of the recent quakes around the world I figure I'd kick things off here with a challenge for everyone:

What's the best emergency/survival flashlight out there?
I figure it must have the following requirements:

- LED (lasts longer, doesn't break)
- Light must have decent enough Lumens for use outdoors
- Runtime/Burntime must last a long time (very important)
- Batteries must be common enough to find anywhere 
(like AA, AAA, D. No specialty/hard to find batteries)
- Waterproof
- Shockproof

Bonuses:
- Right-angle shape
- Glow in the dark material
- Special light features (like S.O.S. mode)


I've hunted around and the Pelican 3610PL is as close as I can get to the requirements but I believe is not waterproof, no SOS feature.



What say you?


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## crizyal (Feb 28, 2010)

It has been said that cr123 batteries might actually be easier to find in an emergency because all of the others are purchased right away. Most have no use for cr123s leaving plenty for us flashaholics.:twothumbs


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## mfm (Feb 28, 2010)

crizyal said:


> It has been said that cr123 batteries might actually be easier to find in an emergency because all of the others are purchased right away. Most have no use for cr123s leaving plenty for us flashaholics.:twothumbs



It depends on the situation and the location:

"During 911 you couldn't find a 123 battery anywhere. There were thousands of AA AAA C's D's available to us." from https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3082022&postcount=27

Also some LEO wrote that during Katrina, he couldn't use his 123 light but that there were AA batteries everywhere and because of that he had to his old Maglite (don't remember the exact post).

It is probably best to have at least one light for each battery type...


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## crizyal (Feb 28, 2010)

mfm said:


> It is probably best to have at least one light for each battery type...



I guess it would be a good idea to have several in a situation like that. I would anyway.:laughing:


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## lingpau (Feb 28, 2010)

This is the easiest question to answer without a seconds hesitation. The Eternalight. Period. Its water resistant, comes with 3 AA lithium batteries that have a long shelf life, are not affected by cold weather and the batteries last more than 1000 hours! I have a Eternalight Elite MAX that has the latest LEDs put in by Eternalight and it can light up from a gentle glow to a blinding floodlight! It has features that make it the perfect Emergency/Survival light. Durable case, magnet on the case for attachment if needed, easy to put in the pocket(small for a 3AA) and just about every type of light function that would be needed.(strobe, SOS, dazzle, 10 dimmable settings, night beacon, etc) This light has never failed me. It is the most reliable light I own.


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## herulach (Feb 28, 2010)

As with anything like that, the best depends on the kind of situation you're in. If you're stuck up a hill, battery availability doesn't matter, and CR123 is better g/w than aa, so in my hiking/biking gear theirs 4 spare cr123s, a smallish throwy (ish) light (seraph with d36 head), and my sc30 with a headband and a H30.

I figure the worst disaster I need to plan for here (central UK) is an extended period with no electricity due to snow/wind. In which case you're best in the house, so its a selection of lights with a lowlow, plus something chunky for 'bump in the night' situations (usually the same seraph as above).

Batteries are in a cupboard, where theres 40 charged eneloops, 20 123s and assorted other sizes for lanterns etc.

In a situation a low-low is a must, with dark adapted vision you should be able to walkreasonably well with 4-5 lumens, if you're indoors, less than 1 is more than adequate for general navigation.


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## thermal guy (Feb 28, 2010)

If it has to be not a 123 type light i think the fenix TK-20 would fit the bill.


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## USM0083 (Feb 28, 2010)

I have a Fenix TA30 solely for it's ability to run off of 2xAA in an emergency. I normally feed it with 2x17500, but keep a good supply of CR123s, AAs and L91 AAs on hand.


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## LightningFox (Feb 28, 2010)

Sorry guys, I made an error in terminology:

I meant to say the ideal flashlight's *burntime/runtime* should last a long time. Not the battery. 

For example, I've seen flashlights that advertise 30hr burntime, others 50hr burn time. Under emergency conditions one may not be able to find replacement batteries for a long time so the flashlight should provide a decent amount of lumens for outdoors use, but still retain a long burn time.


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## John_Galt (Feb 28, 2010)

In my thread here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/261238

In short, I found that Cr123's were much easier to find than AA's, AAA's; C's or D cells, and 9v's were nowhere to be found.

In short, I found that headlamps were best for using the bathroom, washing dishes, etc, and single and 2 cell lights (AA lithium for me) were best for ceiling bouncing to illuminate rooms while eating, etc.

I personally would keep an emergency stash with plenty of Lithium AA's and AAA's, and several good quality headlamps as well as lego-able lights from Fenix, or Quark. The ability to use a multitude of different cells (including AA in emergencies, at lower power levels) is a god-send.

Also, multimode lights are better (IMHO) than non-regulated, single-mode lights, as expressed in my thread.

I would also recommend only storing Lithium primary cells, in AA,AAA and 123 variants (if your lights require them), because the lithium batteries have a much longer shelf-life than Alkaline, and work better in cold conditions. 

My sister was using my Ti Quark AA for the extent of our power outage, and when I asked her how many batteries she had been using, she replied 2-3 per day, in Duracell alkaline's. I gave her a four pack of Energizer lithium's, and got three back by the time the power came back on two days later, so the extra run time from lithium's is worth the extra cost.


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## carrot (Feb 28, 2010)

mfm said:


> It depends on the situation and the location:
> 
> "During 911 you couldn't find a 123 battery anywhere. There were thousands of AA AAA C's D's available to us." from https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3082022&postcount=27
> 
> ...


Of course, this is the special situation where there's lots of emergency responders, and emergency responders tend to go for Surefires, etc, that use CR123A's, and of course the supply chain forgets this. It is of course, best to have at least one of each...


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## Lynx_Arc (Feb 28, 2010)

you aren't a flashaholic if you want only 1 flashlight and want it to do everything. It is best to have several lights that do half or most of what you want very very well than 1 that does everything mediocre on average. I find having one light that is a good thrower running off 2AAs, a keychain pocket light that has a few modes to extend runtime to at least a few hours, a lantern or two with bright output and long running dim nightlight and a headlamp with a few modes so you can see very well to work or well enough to navigate without draining batteries. As far as batteries are concerned us true hard core flashaholics never want to even consider we would have to *ugh* play the emergency store lottery battery game in a mass outage. We do the following things: stock up on primaries (lithium is a plus), have lights that use rechargeable batteries and get them (nimh LSD a plus) and have alternative ways to charge them using single channel smart chargers (car chargers a plus). For most folks the AA/AAA and 123 cells are the go to, with AA/AAA being more and more chosen due to LSD nimh and smart chargers vs the harder to get and manage rechargeable 123 cells and lights that can use them. D cell lights are less popular because of the improvement of LED emitters are such you can get long enough runtime that a 2AA LED light can surpass the useable runtime of a 2D incan and you can carry another 6AAs and still end up with less mass/weight. As for the very low modes IMO if you have plenty of batteries and a way to recharge them you don't need a super low.... it is very nice but unless you are stuck in an outage lasting more than a few days with no way to recharge cells and short supply of batteries (due to lack of stocking up) having lights with a 15-30 lumen low using a newer emitter does fine and can run all day off one set of batteries.


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## thermal guy (Feb 28, 2010)

Change your battery type to include 123 battery and grab an hds. Problem solved.


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## LightningFox (Feb 28, 2010)

lingpau said:


> This is the easiest question to answer without a seconds hesitation. The Eternalight. Period. Its water resistant, comes with 3 AA lithium batteries that have a long shelf life, are not affected by cold weather and the batteries last more than 1000 hours! I have a Eternalight Elite MAX that has the latest LEDs put in by Eternalight and it can light up from a gentle glow to a blinding floodlight! It has features that make it the perfect Emergency/Survival light. Durable case, magnet on the case for attachment if needed, easy to put in the pocket(small for a 3AA) and just about every type of light function that would be needed.(strobe, SOS, dazzle, 10 dimmable settings, night beacon, etc) This light has never failed me. It is the most reliable light I own.



I checked out the Eternalight but it's too small. I'm thinking of a solid light you can hold on your hand or hang from the strap of a backpack for hands-free use. What do you think of the Remington 3AAA 2 in 1 LED? I love the lamp function and has a 10hr burntime.


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## MiniLux (Feb 28, 2010)

lingpau said:


> This is the easiest question to answer without a seconds hesitation. The Eternalight. Period. Its water resistant, comes with 3 AA lithium batteries that have a long shelf life, are not affected by cold weather and the batteries last more than 1000 hours! I have a Eternalight Elite MAX that has the latest LEDs put in by Eternalight and it can light up from a gentle glow to a blinding floodlight! It has features that make it the perfect Emergency/Survival light. Durable case, magnet on the case for attachment if needed, easy to put in the pocket(small for a 3AA) and just about every type of light function that would be needed.(strobe, SOS, dazzle, 10 dimmable settings, night beacon, etc) This light has never failed me. It is the most reliable light I own.



Nice little buddies, bought one of the early models several years ago :twothumbs
Still working, but the LEDs are somewhat outdated as for now :green:
Where can these newer models be found nowadays?
I've searched around, but couldn't locate any dealer :sigh:

MiniLux


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## NonSenCe (Feb 28, 2010)

burntime= runtime?

energizer hard case might be one option for tough angle light.


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## LightningFox (Feb 28, 2010)

Guys, give me some feedback on what you think of the Pelican SabreLite 2010 Recoil LED Photoluminescent Flashlight. I haven't found any info on this flashlight anywhere. How does it stack up against the famous TK-20?


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## John_Galt (Feb 28, 2010)

thermal guy said:


> Change your battery type to include 123 battery and grab an hds. Problem solved.



I'll second this.

I've owned my HDS for about two months now, and use it quite frequently. The modes are very well spaced, output is good (modified with a SSC P4 LED, greater efficiency means more output than the old Luxeon I), and the runtime is excellent. I'm still on my first battery, and it was my go to light when I lost power for four days.


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## carrot (Feb 28, 2010)

LightningFox said:


> Guys, give me some feedback on what you think of the Pelican SabreLite 2010 Recoil LED Photoluminescent Flashlight. I haven't found any info on this flashlight anywhere. How does it stack up against the famous TK-20?


The Sabrelight is unbelievably old tech. I have a similar one, the Pelican Recoil M8. It is a great light but uses ancient technology. Runtime is excellent, and it throws better than many lights that are far brighter. However, that's about all I can say for it, as there's many out there that are brighter, and even some that run longer, such as the Quark AA^2. 

Added bonus is the Quark fits in your pocket and on moonlight mode runs for 30 straight days.


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## Brigadier (Feb 28, 2010)

This may get me flamed, but here goes.......


One is looking for a flashlight to PREPARE for emergency situations. YET, one is refusing to PREPARE for said situation by stocking up on batteries. Are you actually going to COUNT on being able to buy batteries for your flashlight(s) AFTER said emergency? :candle:

Given that CR123 primaries can be bought online in bulk at significant savings, and that they have a 10 yr shelf life, I guess I just don't understand not stocking up so that you don't have to worry about getting them after the fact. 

Heck, I know of one vendor that even sells them shrinkwrapped in pairs or triples so you KNOW you wont be mixing old and new cells. 

So why exclude some of the best lights out there because they take cR123's? Why limit your choice.

That said, my light would be my Jet-III M. I can quickly adjust the user level to whatever I want to suit my needs at the moment. I have 4 ea 18650's that I use for it, and can even recharge them in my car, but I also have 50+ Titanium CR123's on hand at any given time.

Oh, and since two is one and one is none, I also have 2 ea 85T's, and RRT-1, 2 ea 6P's, an M2, a P3D CE,....... to use too.

YMMV.


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## LightningFox (Feb 28, 2010)

carrot said:


> The Sabrelight is unbelievably old tech. I have a similar one, the Pelican Recoil M8. It is a great light but uses ancient technology. Runtime is excellent, and it throws better than many lights that are far brighter. However, that's about all I can say for it, as there's many out there that are brighter, and even some that run longer, such as the Quark AA^2.
> 
> Added bonus is the Quark fits in your pocket and on moonlight mode runs for 30 straight days.



wow and I was thinking it had some new high tech features


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## wyager (Feb 28, 2010)

I would think any decent 2xAA light should work just fine, I would go with a quark AA^2 or fenix LD20 (the smartPD lights have parasitic drain, right?) because of decent battery life, brightness and of course 2xAA. I might have a CR123 battery on a gun, obviously something LED like the TK10. I don't want to be using something incan when batteries are a critical resource.


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## Egsise (Feb 28, 2010)

I trust my AA's...
Quark AA (over 300 hour runtime with single 2000mAh Eneloop)
ZebraLight H50 (nice runtime, very nice floody beam for indoors)
Fenix HL20 (nice runtime, good combo of flood and throw)

If I had to pick just one, Fenix HL20 would be my choice, hidden sos mode, low mode lasts a few days.


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## Databyter (Feb 28, 2010)

Fenix TK-40

Tough as nails, can take a beating. I've seen a vid. showing this used as a hammer, ran over by trucks, dragged behind vehicles, thrown in the pool etc and still works.

Waterproof to IPX-8, can be submersed, but not used as a water ski.

Will take either 8 or 4 aa's (alkaline, Ni-cad, Nimh). These batteries are the most common and can be found anywhere in the world.

Big enough and bright enough for the most challenging outdoor scenarios, and low enough and capacitive enough for many days/weeks of daily intermitant indoor use.

Has 4 brightness levels (including turbo), beacon and SOS modes.

Recessed switch, Hard abrasion resistant finish, can be "candled" in a room (stand on its butt).

Ultra reliable engine and emitter.

Has lanyard and shoulder strap capabilities (comes with both).

Some people say this light is big, but its really not that big for it's very versatile capabilities, it is smaller /shorter than a 2 D maglight.

I would without hesitation, if I could have only one light in an natural disaster emergency scenario, pick this one, depending on the type of emergency of course (civil unrest vs natural disaster for instance).

Someone is bound to mention that the memory controler in this light uses a very very very very very small amount of energy. It's,.. small.. It would not realistically impact your runtime or store time unless you wanted to hole up in a cave for several years on one set of eneloops. and even then you can just turn the light "off" by turning the head a quarter turn or so.

voila, perfect flexible emergency light.


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## pec50 (Feb 28, 2010)

This type of post seems to frequently emerge ... I suggest a search for more info. But, for an emergency light you might want to consider a duty light akin to those used by first responders for severe environments. These lights are not glamorous; rather they are purposely very simple to use -- on/off wearing gloves. They are waterproof, meet UL standards for use in hazardous locations, are impact resistant, and typically non-conductive. These lights can typically be helmet mounted because users want both hands free -- if you want to go with a flashlight, I would suggest a headband that will hold the light. Look for a simple rugged light e.g. streamlight propolymer series. Put some reflective tape on it. Practice using it. Remember you will be dealing with a very terrifying and potentially life-threatening emergency, you may/willl be impaired, and you do not want to have a complex light. Survival, to me, suggests another type of light where dealing with a more complex UI is not so much an issue and long runtimes might be desirable.


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## Dougzilla (Feb 28, 2010)

I own one of these, it's amazing, its made by SNAP-ON, and it'll charge anything with 
a 12v car lighter plug. no adapters needed.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2664028


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## kramer5150 (Feb 28, 2010)

Fenix MC10 meets almost all your criteria.

I played around with one of these at a recent CPF meet. Great little task-light


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 28, 2010)

Welcome to the crazy world of CPF, LightningFox. Best thing for you to do is spend some time reading reviews, checking out the different lights available online, and figuring out a price range and size of light you want. There are now dozens (maybe hundreds) of good LED lights. And, you'll hear that many recommendations. Narrow it down a bit for us and the advice may get less confusing.

Good luck. 

Geoff


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## lingpau (Feb 28, 2010)

MiniLux, I sent my Ebay Eternalight back to the factory and for about $2.00 per LED, they put in the brightest LEDs available for that light. If you are looking for a good deal on one, check on Ebay. I saved the search and was notified by Ebay when an EliteMax was posted. I bought it for $30.00! Retail from http://www.techass.com/ is $89.00 Its small size is what makes it perfect for a Emergency/Survival light. Its east to carry and rugged. Most likely you will need several other items in this type of situation. A big light like a 6 D Mag would be good for a club, but not so convenient to carry or conceal. I bought a Surefire 6 P LED and it lasted 12 minutes before it died. I have used my Eternalight for hundreds of hours with no problems. I have had several others, but family members and friends claimed them! What other light will run for over 1000 hours on a single set of batteries?


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## lingpau (Feb 28, 2010)

Lightning fox, Forget the AAA light. great little light but any AAA light has a very limited runtime. It would make a good back up light, but an emergency light needs long runtime. You might not be able to get your hands on extra batteries. You don't get to pick where you are when an emergency happens! IMO


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## Lynx_Arc (Feb 28, 2010)

avoid 3AAA lights, 2AA batteries have close to twice the energy of 3AAAs and the cost is identical per cell and usually you don't have to fumble with cartriges


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## Woods Walker (Feb 28, 2010)

TK20 for the win. I have a L2D-Q5 and gave away a LD20 for a gift. Both good 2XAA lights. Played around with a Quark 2xAA R5 at a winter group campout. It was -8F so know the Quark can take the cold. I am a Quark owner who has taken his light into the wood more than a few times but not every tool is best for every application. Sure they have some cool modes and loooooooooong runtimes on the lower levels but we are talking about an ER/survival use here. The TK20 is built like a monster. In an ER, bad stuff could happen and think the TK20 would hold up to things that could trash a L2D/LD20 or Quark 2xAA. So would rather have something that has a better chance of taking a beating in some kinda _I shouldn't be alive_ stiuation.


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## LightningFox (Feb 28, 2010)

lingpau said:


> Lightning fox, Forget the AAA light. great little light but any AAA light has a very limited runtime. It would make a good back up light, but an emergency light needs long runtime. You might not be able to get your hands on extra batteries. You don't get to pick where you are when an emergency happens! IMO



You're right. I think AA and D would be the better batteries you can find absolutely anywhere to power your light and still give you long runtime. So no 123 nor C batteries (despite better performance). So I think I'm on the fence between:
- Fenix TK-20 (10hr runtime, 120 Lumens)
- Pelican 2410PL (30hr runtime, 84 Lumens)

Which one has the better spread?


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## hoongern (Feb 28, 2010)

While I agree that the TK20 is a great light, I don't see it as much in an emergency situation, because it doesn't have a proper low mode (only has a medium [general] and turbo mode). The medium mode only lasts for 11hrs.

On the other hand, the Quark, for example, has moonlight, low and medium modes which far outdo the TK20, which could be important for emergency usage. I find my low mode on my Quark AA (only 1 AA) to be more than enough for most indoor night usage, and it lasts for over 50hrs. The 2xAA would probably be in excess of 100hrs!!



> - Fenix TK-20 (10hr runtime, 120 Lumens)
> - Pelican 2410PL (30hr runtime, 84 Lumens)


EDIT: I noticed you put the TK20 10hrs 120 lumens. The *11hr *runtime is actually for the general mode, which is only *45 lumens.*

In an emergency situation, having lower output modes can be VERY useful, instead of having only one high mode.

Also, take all specs with a grain of salt. The way people measure lumens and runtimes can be different. For example, is the runtime until 50% of its original output, or until the LED goes down to a glow, and then finally stops? There are also many ways to rate lumens. I'm not sure how Pelican does their ratings.


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## Woods Walker (Feb 28, 2010)

I think the TK20 is around 11 hours regulated with 2xAA NiMH at 45 lumens and around 2 hours at 150 but could be off. Not sure about that Pelican 2410PL. Its 4XAA but don't know if that 30 hours at 84 lumen thing is direct drive or regulated. If DD it will not hold 84 for the entire run. But again don't own it.

Edit.

On a side note if I was going to use a very low mode for longer term use would rather go with a headlamp. This is what I do in camp for hands free use. But on the flip side have used a Quark Mini 1XAA with it's lower mode for an area light.







Maybe go TK20 and Quark Mini AA or ZL H501. This way your can have your cake and eat it too.


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## Egsise (Feb 28, 2010)

LightningFox said:


> - Fenix TK-20 (10hr runtime, 120 Lumens)
> - Pelican 2410PL (30hr runtime, 84 Lumens)


Nonono dont say it like that!
Fenix TK20 high is 150 lumens, and thats for 1½ hours. Low is 45 lumens and ~10 hours.
That Pelican is similar, or it must have 12 AA batteries?


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## lingpau (Feb 28, 2010)

Check out the Fenix LD-20. I have the older version, the L2D premium. Since you like the cigar shaped lights, you will find this light very capable for a single LED light. I don't think any single LED light(in the same price range) can match the spread(flood light) of a 4 LED light up close. This is with the 2 or 3 AA battery configuration. Whatever light you decide on, get the best Lithium cells you can find and you will be ready for several years!


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## hoongern (Feb 28, 2010)

One thing I forgot to mention - the plus side of the quarks is that you can always buy a quark prism, which immediately turns your quark into a 90 degree angle light, and has a diffuser to help smooth out the beam into a flood lighthttp://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=297_304&products_id=1973


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## LightningFox (Mar 1, 2010)

Egsise said:


> Nonono dont say it like that!
> Fenix TK20 high is 150 lumens, and thats for 1½ hours. Low is 45 lumens and ~10 hours.
> That Pelican is similar, or it must have 12 AA batteries?



the Pelican runs on 4x AA batteries.


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## Kilted (Mar 1, 2010)

I am surprised no one has mentioned the Freeplay lights. True they are not going to win a brightness contest, but they do not require an off board charger. In an emergency just crank! Or set your self up with solar chargers if you are lucky enough to be at home near the toys.

I have been looking at the stuff from Freeplay check them out. They have combo units radio/lights but the two I have experence with are:

Not the brighest but very good.
http://www.freeplayenergy.com/product/sherpa-ledblack

A wall mount kit of three Sherpa's in a charger box:
http://www.freeplayenergy.com/product/elc

Lantern for general room light:
http://www.freeplayenergy.com/product/ml1minilantern

All units have NiMH batteries, led bulbs and have good run time, they are AC/Solar/Crank rechargabe. Quaility of construction is excellent. The solar option you will have to build your self but it is fairly easy to do.

=D~~ Kilted


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## Egsise (Mar 1, 2010)

LightningFox said:


> the Pelican runs on 4x AA batteries.


So it can't be 84 lumens for 30 hours. :ironic:


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## Lynx_Arc (Mar 1, 2010)

Kilted said:


> I am surprised no one has mentioned the Freeplay lights. True they are not going to win a brightness contest, but they do not require an off board charger. In an emergency just crank! Or set your self up with solar chargers if you are lucky enough to be at home near the toys.
> 
> 
> All units have NiMH batteries, led bulbs and have good run time, they are AC/Solar/Crank rechargabe. Quaility of construction is excellent. The solar option you will have to build your self but it is fairly easy to do.
> ...


probably because they use 5mm LEDs which you can buy lights with similar output for about $10 in the stores now that use 2AAs and buy $26 worth of alkaline batteries on sale... about 80-100 batteries which should last you a few months of continuous use and don't have to get a repetitive motion injury cranking it.


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## LightningFox (Mar 1, 2010)

Egsise said:


> So it can't be 84 lumens for 30 hours. :ironic:



lol I don't know, that's what the website says
http://www.pelican.com/lights_detail_specs.php?recordID=2410PL


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## LightningFox (Mar 1, 2010)

hoongern said:


> One thing I forgot to mention - the plus side of the quarks is that you can always buy a quark prism, which immediately turns your quark into a 90 degree angle light, and has a diffuser to help smooth out the beam into a flood lighthttp://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=297_304&products_id=1973



wow I'm beginning to like the Quark AA² for its simplicity of use (twist to change light output) and for the prism, low output mode. Very nice! If it only had some kind of photo-luminescent coating to make it glow in the dark even while off I'd be 1000% sold. Imagine, lights go out and you're not sure where your flashlight is.


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## WDG (Mar 1, 2010)

Lynx_Arc said:


> you aren't a flashaholic if you want only 1 flashlight and want it to do everything.



I represent that remark!  



LightningFox said:


> Bonuses:
> - Right-angle shape



I was going to suggest the Pentagon Molle light, but apparently I missed the thread where they went out of business. The Fenix MC10 looks interesting.

My thinking is that if it got to the point of having to scrounge cells, a single cell light is going to be easier to keep fed than a multiple cell light. No worries about cell matching, etc. For that reason, I personally would choose the Fenix LD10 over the LD20. I currently EDC an L1D-CE and have been completely satisfied with its flexibility.

YMMV


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## hoongern (Mar 1, 2010)

LightningFox said:


> lol I don't know, that's what the website says
> http://www.pelican.com/lights_detail_specs.php?recordID=2410PL



It probably means that it starts out at 84 lumens only at the start, and then goes down from there. Assuming it's not regulated, by the time you reach a couple hours runtime, the LED could be pretty dim.

My calculations may be wrong, but consider the following:

To produce 84 lumens using the very modern Cree R2 LED, you need about 250mA of current, at 3.1V, which is 0.775watts of power. 

Now, a VERY good [email protected] battery has total energy of 3.2Wh, so given 4 of them, that would be a total of 12.8Wh.

To drive it at 84 lumens, you'd get a theoretical maximum runtime of 12.8Wh/0.775W = 16.5 hours. That's if everything was perfect. In reality, you'd probably get more like 14 hours (given ~90% efficiency)

So by that calculation, 84 lumens regulated for 30 hours is just impossible. You'd need 7+ AA cells to do that.

(Don't take my word for it though)



> wow I'm beginning to like the Quark AA² for its simplicity of use (twist to change light output) and for the prism, low output mode. Very nice! If it only had some kind of photo-luminescent coating to make it glow in the dark even while off I'd be 1000% sold. Imagine, lights go out and you're not sure where your flashlight is.


For the regular model, you don't twist it to change modes - you tap (half press down) the switch at the back. However, twisting does have a role. With the head twisted tight, tapping cycles between Maximum & Strobe. With the head loosened (untwist it), tapping cycles between moonlight, low, medium, high, sos, and beacon. For the tactical version, it's different (programmable)

Do check out some of the other brands/models though, there are a decent number of 1xAA and 2xAA flashlights floating around which you may also want to consider.

Regarding the GITD (Glow in the dark) - I'm not sure how hard/easy it is, but if you find a GITD tailcap boot (the switch which you press) - you can easily install it and the tailcap will glow. You could also try taping some GITD tape around the body. Although that's probably not the most ideal.


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## Saint_Dogbert (Mar 1, 2010)

If we assume for the purposes of this thread that I'd only have one light available in an emergency, it would be a Quark 123^2 Turbo. I would of course also have a modest stockpile of CR123 batts, but I think even with one set of cells I'd be set. The reason is the runtimes you'd get out of this configuration - 2 hours on max, 10 hours on high, 48 hours on medium, probably 10 days on low and well over a month on moonlight. And it comes with all the flashy modes if signaling is required. Probably one of those surefire spares carriers for like 6 cells would be more than adequate for most situations.

If it's a situation where I'm having to go hunting for batts, then I'd carry my Quark AA^2, along with a Quark 123 battery tube. Then I can swap tubes depending on cell availability, and even carry a spare 123 cell in the spare tube so I'm ready to go as soon as my AA light runs out of juice. I'd prefer this setup since it is lighter and more compact than having two whole lights. And as has been mentioned the Quark prism give anglehead functionality as well as diffuser/filter capabilities.


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## Saint_Dogbert (Mar 1, 2010)

LightningFox said:


> Imagine, lights go out and you're not sure where your flashlight is.



Given that I EDC some sort of light pretty much 24/7 this isn't something I'd worry about.


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## paulr (Mar 1, 2010)

This is a perennial and overrated subject at CPF. I will describe a slightly jaundiced view.

For many thousands of years people survived without flashlights. They relied on the Big Flashlight In The Sky during the day, and slept at night. Of course our situation is different now, and being in civilization creates its own demands.

So consider the sort of emergency you are preparing for. How long do you expect it will last, before you can get new supplies? If you answer (for example) "a month", do you have enough food and water and sanitation to last a month? If not, flashlights are the least of your worries, so go back to the drawing board. If you're counting on being able to get more food or water after less time than that, then fine, but you can probably get more batteries the same way at the same time.

At least where I am, the usual advice was to prepare for 72 hours before relief could arrive, but after Katrina they upped that to a week. So you've got your week of food and water taken care of, what will your lighting requirements be? Again, in the daytime, there is sunlight. And during sleeptime at night, well, dreaming has its own lighting source. So that leaves evening sitting around, and some necessary evening or nighttime tasks. Evening is around 5 hours a day tops.

Sitting around is most comfortable when there's some light available, to not bump into things, and see the people around you. That doesn't require much light; the equivalent of moonlight is enough. In particular a 3 lumen led light bounced off the ceiling in a normal sized room is plenty for this purpose (I know this because I use an old-style Arc AAA for that). 5 hours is about how long the Arc runs on one AAA cell (there are more efficient lights these days than my old Arc, including newer Arcs, too). So a couple of 4-packs of AAA's are enough for a whole week of this. Or for that matter, an AA has >2x the energy of an AAA, so one 4-pack of AA's would do it. The Q-mini AA purports to run 60 hours in its 2.7 lumen low mode, so *one* AA will get you through the whole week with plenty to spare. (I wonder if anyone has tested this though). The 3 lumens are also ok for most close-up tasks like changing a fuse.

For other tasks, more lumens are needed, but unless you have special requirements calling for long-range outdoor light, again, today's pocket LED lights are ridiculously powerful. That same Q-mini AA purports to put out 90 lumens in high mode, for 1.3 hours. That is at least 2x the lumens of the 3D Maglite of days gone by, though the focus won't be as tight. For travel and camping purposes it's bright enough for most anything, and should be similar for most household and outdoor situations. And the CR123A version is even smaller and brighter.

In short, a modern multi-level AA light and a 4-pack of L91 lithium batteries (they have long shelf life, high capacity, work well at low temperatures) or a CR123A equivalent should be plenty for just about any emergency of the sort you're describing. You basically want a long-running low powered light, and something capable of higher output at less duration. Crank lights and shake lights are cute toys but are of basically no benefit in this context.

Oh yes, any light you leave at home is useless if the outage happens while you're away, so you want a light with you at all times. A 45 cent Fauxton on your keys is generally plenty for this. Yes they are much brighter when their batteries are brand new (they fall to 50% in half an hour or so) but they produce steadily dimming but useful light for 8 hours or more. Again with slightly judicious use they are enough to get you through a heck of a lot.


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## MiniLux (Mar 1, 2010)

Saint_Dogbert said:


> I'd carry my Quark AA^2, along with a Quark 123 battery tube. Then I can swap tubes depending on cell availability, and even carry a spare 123 cell in the spare tube so I'm ready to go as soon as my AA light runs out of juice.



That's actually what I'm doing:
* Quark Turbo AA^2 with mounted 18650 battery tube for common use
* additional AA^2 tube with 2 x L91
* additional CR123^1 tube with 1 x CR123

Each tube with mounted clicky, so switching is a matter of seconds 

MiniLux


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## mfm (Mar 1, 2010)

John_Galt said:


> I would also recommend only storing Lithium primary cells, in AA,AAA and 123 variants (if your lights require them), because the lithium batteries have a much longer shelf-life than Alkaline, and work better in cold conditions.



You would have been at least as good off if you had enough Eneloops to begin with (or bought more instead of lithiums).



Brigadier said:


> Given that CR123 primaries can be bought online in bulk at significant savings, and that they have a 10 yr shelf life


You should probably read the threads from people who tried using 5+ year old CR123A cells (SF and other brands), otherwise you might get a nasty surprise during your next emergency...


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## Skyeye (Mar 1, 2010)

IMHO, the best survival light is one that has a very long run time, well constructed and uses readily available batteries. Personally I think any decent AAA or D cell light is best. I know about this as I lived through the greatest natural disaster in US history and did it with a Ray-O-Vac fluorescent and a couple of Brinkmann AAA's. :candle:


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## Databyter (Mar 1, 2010)

pec50 said:


> This type of post seems to frequently emerge ... I suggest a search for more info. But, for an emergency light you might want to consider a duty light akin to those used by first responders for severe environments. These lights are not glamorous; rather they are purposely very simple to use -- on/off wearing gloves. They are waterproof, meet UL standards for use in hazardous locations, are impact resistant, and typically non-conductive. These lights can typically be helmet mounted because users want both hands free -- if you want to go with a flashlight, I would suggest a headband that will hold the light. Look for a simple rugged light e.g. streamlight propolymer series. Put some reflective tape on it. Practice using it. Remember you will be dealing with a very terrifying and potentially life-threatening emergency, you may/willl be impaired, and you do not want to have a complex light. Survival, to me, suggests another type of light where dealing with a more complex UI is not so much an issue and long runtimes might be desirable.



Since your post was directly after mine I can only assume that you are referring to me (in a sort of patronizing way).

"This type of post seems to frequently emerge"

If your referring to the OP you should have said thread, not post, and I would wonder why you would bother to post yourself if you are above the question. Personally I thought it was a worthy question, and the parameters looked pretty good.

Go back and re-read the OP's question.



> What's the best emergency/survival flashlight out there?
> I figure it must have the following requirements:
> 
> - LED (lasts longer, doesn't break)
> ...



The lights you mention are for specific usages. The OP's question is not asking about first responder gear but an emergency survival light that can wear many hats and has a long run time without needing to load new batteries every day, when they do run out the OP asks that there be flexible options for powering it in a difficult supply scenario..

I stand by my answer, and I have had many years of experience as a Firefighter and rescue / EMT. I would have loved to have had this light in my bag, or on a long camping trip.

Many of your suggestions although perfect for the tasks you mention fail overall. As far as ease of use, pressing a button is not hard, it makes light get bright and gloves are no problem, you only need to turn the light up or down (which is an ADVANTAGE in this situation), if the task requires it.

We can agree to disagree but I won't be patronized by you. I know many prefer thier small CR123 lights and I like them too and own many. But I'd toss them all aside if I needed to meet the specs posted by the OP in favor of the light in my first post.


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## Mr Bigglow (Mar 1, 2010)

Don't own one, but if headlamps count I've always liked the looks of the SF Saint, which can be broken down to a Minimus to take AAs. It's a twofer! For home emergency use, we have the Freeplay charging station that takes 3 Sherpas, keeps them charged, and has a blinking red LED that starts up when the power goes off. And of course the Sherpas can be recharged by cranking and would be great for the kids. It's still one flashlight when they're all in the charging box! And I should add that the charging indicator LEDs on the Sherpas add up to a pretty good night light too.


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## herulach (Mar 1, 2010)

If it desperately has to be one light (and I know this is cheating a little bit) a solarforce T4

2AA or CR123, 5 modes, functions as a headlamp, lantern or standard flashlight.


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## jabe1 (Mar 1, 2010)

I would go with a Quark regular AA and an 18650 tube. With a wad of Aluminum foil, it can use almost any single cell configuration up to 18650.
Just for kicks, I have mine trying 2xLR44 as we speak (I did also need some tape ).


I got approx 2.5 hrs on low, not moon, with cheapo cells!


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## Kestrel (Mar 1, 2010)

Although I don't have any specific recommendations, besides saying that *paulr* had a particularly good post above, here are a few threads:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/139218
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/148961

*In particular, I found the series of posts by Sub Umbra in the following threads to be particulary informative:*
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1138442
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/160239&page=2
Being 'in for the duration' during Katrina, he possibly has the CPF endurance record as far as I know. :thinking:


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## Brigadier (Mar 1, 2010)

mfm said:


> You should probably read the threads from people who tried using 5+ year old CR123A cells (SF and other brands), otherwise you might get a nasty surprise during your next emergency...


 
Seeing as most of my lights are CR123 powered, I doubt I will have any around that are that old.


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## LightningFox (Mar 4, 2010)

pec50 said:


> This type of post seems to frequently emerge ... I suggest a search for more info. But, for an emergency light you might want to consider a duty light akin to those used by first responders for severe environments. These lights are not glamorous; rather they are purposely very simple to use -- on/off wearing gloves. They are waterproof, meet UL standards for use in hazardous locations, are impact resistant, and typically non-conductive. These lights can typically be helmet mounted because users want both hands free -- if you want to go with a flashlight, I would suggest a headband that will hold the light. Look for a simple rugged light e.g. streamlight propolymer series. Put some reflective tape on it. Practice using it. Remember you will be dealing with a very terrifying and potentially life-threatening emergency, you may/willl be impaired, and you do not want to have a complex light. Survival, to me, suggests another type of light where dealing with a more complex UI is not so much an issue and long runtimes might be desirable.



Interesting you mention say that because that's one of the first things I did. 

I found the Pelican flashlights are the kind used by many fire fighters and rescue teams. They're super rugged (there's a video of a Pelican employee banging a light hard on concrete) and have safety certifications up the wazoo: 2410PL and 3610PL. However they lack low-light level modes and no SOS mode either. They're also waterproof and come wrapped with glow-in-the-dark hard rubber. Runtime on them is good and have great throw but I don't know how good spill is (need something with good spill for survival outdoors).

So I'm split between simplicity and ruggedness (Pelican lights) or something more sophisticated like the Fenix LD20 and Qark AA2. Their low light modes make the lights last way more than the Pelicans, are waterproof, have SOS mode. I'm not sure how much spill and throw they'd have vs the Pelicans though.


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## paulr (Mar 4, 2010)

LightningFox said:


> So I'm split between simplicity and ruggedness (Pelican lights) or something more sophisticated like the Fenix LD20 and Qark AA2. Their low light modes make the lights last way more than the Pelicans, are waterproof, have SOS mode. I'm not sure how much spill and throw they'd have vs the Pelicans though.



I'd go for a 1-cell light over a 2-cell light for more flexibility in scrounging batteries, less battery loss if you accidentally leave the thing turned on all night, and greater compactness.


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## LightningFox (Mar 4, 2010)

Databyter said:


> Since your post was directly after mine I can only assume that you are referring to me (in a sort of patronizing way).
> 
> "This type of post seems to frequently emerge"
> 
> ...



Yes exactly. You totally read my mind. So this goes for everyone:

Assume a disaster strikes (quake, flood, tornado, whatever), your home is destroyed and you know you could be spending a long long time (days, weeks) outdoors, no battery supplies anywhere. Worst case scenario, you need to walk for days over rocky-rough terrain to the nearest point of help and its raining. You pop the trunk of your (dead) car and pull your survival gear and your flashlight. What flashlight would this be?

Remember you'll be hauling a huge backpack with all your survival crap inside (MREs, water, clothes, tent, sleeping bag, etc).


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## JaguarDave-in-Oz (Mar 4, 2010)

For me it would be a single AA cell multi mode torch with a Energiser Lithium L91 battery on board. Why single cell, well firstly it could be buried in my deepest pants pocket during the day so it won't fall out. Being small it's easy to hide from thieves, easy and light to carry and can be stuck in the mouth or a headband for handsfree use during whatever night time activities I feel I need to undertake. Single battery is easy to feed and if I have to steal batteries maybe I'll only find one at a time..... 

I'd choose my quark AA tactical because it has the lowest low of all my torches and that will give me the option of making my battery/ies last the longest possible time as well as giving me the least chance of being seen if I don't want to be but it also has a reasonably bright max for "an emergency within the emergency" as well as having signal modes etc. It's also pretty strong and safe against water ingress etc.

As for finding CR123a batteries in an emergency, well, in my town I can't even find any when there's no emergency.


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## LightningFox (Mar 4, 2010)

Databyter said:


> Fenix TK-40
> 
> Tough as nails, can take a beating. I've seen a vid. showing this used as a hammer, ran over by trucks, dragged behind vehicles, thrown in the pool etc and still works.
> 
> ...



I just did a whole bunch of reading and youtube vid watching on the TK-40 and that will definitely be one of the main flashlights I'll buy for the family. May be too much to hang by the side of a loaded emergency backpack though so my search continues.


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## RepProdigious (Mar 4, 2010)

How bout the AKOray AK-16 for a base? Couple of reasons why;

-Small, sturdy
-High output is bright, low output good for long runtime
-Works on all CR123/AA sized cells (1.2, 1.5, 3, 3.7 volts)
-Its cheap so you can buy a couple and place them at various places or hand them out to people in need.
-If you prep the light after you receive it its very reliable (unfortunately this is necessary)

It doesn't tick all you boxes but with some slight modification it can do all!

I already have a 109 (cr123 only) and love it!


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## LightningFox (Mar 4, 2010)

RepProdigious said:


> How bout the AKOray AK-16 for a base? Couple of reasons why;
> 
> -Small, sturdy
> -High output is bright, low output good for long runtime
> ...



Hey that looks like a really neat backup light. I'll definitely look into it!! Fantastic suggestion


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## lingpau (Mar 4, 2010)

I have an Akoray K-106 Cree Q5-WC 5-Mode 230-Lumen Memory LED Flashlight and its cheap and very bright. Its very similar to the Akoray AK-16. IMO,with the reputation of this brand, its a 50-50 chance if the one you get works right. There is a thread about the quality control on this Akoray K-106 light. I like the light but it sometimes gives me problems with changing modes when you bump it. Sometimes it flickers. The run time is very limited. It can be a backup or EDC light, but I don't think I would rely on it for a primary survival light because of the QC problems of the Akoray and very limited run time. You know my first choice, it runs for 1000+ hours on a single set of batteries.


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## fisk-king (Mar 4, 2010)

post #49 my thoughts exactly.:twothumbs

A couple of years ago I had the same mindset of a one light to do all. Now I've come to the realization that in a situation where *survival/emergency* should be at hand one should have done the most to prepare for that unexpected situation. I have 2 very large ziplock bags w/ batteries(one w/ ~50 lithium AA batteries and the other has ~20 or so Alkalines) for emergencies that I purchased on snEbay for very good prices. In my emerg. bag, or B.O.B., the main light is the Ra Twisty100 in a pelican case w/ 5 cr123 batteries. It is not my only light in the bag mind you:naughty:.

IMHO, I suggest researching (I presume what you are doing now) and start building a base for you as well as your family. Start with one (e.g. Quark AA2 w/ extra battery tube for spare holder) and work your way from there. Buying one light and a few extra batteries, IMO, is only a temporary remedy to a possibly long term bad situation.

Now me personally, if SHTF, I will have 2 lights on my person for sure:

Quark Neut. Tact. AA-2
Ra Twisty

I can make do w/ those two I would think. My .02.


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## RepProdigious (Mar 4, 2010)

lingpau said:


> I have an Akoray K-106 Cree Q5-WC 5-Mode 230-Lumen Memory LED Flashlight and its cheap and very bright. Its very similar to the Akoray AK-16. IMO,with the reputation of this brand, its a 50-50 chance if the one you get works right. There is a thread about the quality control on this Akoray K-106 light. I like the light but it sometimes gives me problems with changing modes when you bump it. Sometimes it flickers. The run time is very limited. It can be a backup or EDC light, but I don't think I would rely on it for a primary survival light because of the QC problems of the Akoray and very limited run time. You know my first choice, it runs for 1000+ hours on a single set of batteries.



All 100% true! Quality control on these can be an issue, but if you're a bit handy you can do alot to this light like this to make it quite dependable! And you only have to 'patch it up' after you receive it (mostly cleaning and stuff), if you do this right it will work when you need it to!

My little 109 draws .08A @ 3v on lowest low so this should give you pretty OK runtime, if you could get a K-16 with the same driver i think you're set!

If you're really into a light like this check out my little review to get an idea about how much difference there is between different versions/production batches on this brand.... Buying the right one can save you a lot of headaches!!


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## John_Galt (Mar 4, 2010)

If you could have someone make a two AA battery tube for an older HDS light, that would be perfect. My B42 XR modified with a P4 is extremely efficient, well made, and extremely useable on all levels. The ultra low mode has been tested at over 300 hours, in some cases 1000+. Runtimes would potentially be greater with two lithium AA's, because of the higher Ahour capacity of the cells, as opposed to a Cr123.
------------------------------
But, really you've got to plan in layers. Multiple lights, for multiple tasks. If you have a couple of small kids, you don't want them to be fumbling around in the dark because you only purchased one light, right?

I would say a Fenix E01 with Li AAA for each person in your family.
Something like the Maratac AA/AAA for each person (the AA is basically the same as the AAA, but has longer runtimes, and a different mode sequence).
A headlamp to use in the bathroom, and another to use in the kitchen.
A higher output, multi-mode light that is capable of illuminating an entire room, for tasks that requre higher outputs. A multitude of cells options here.

There, now you are standardised on AAA, and AA. A small stockpile of AA's and AAA's is all you need.


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## Databyter (Mar 4, 2010)

LightningFox said:


> I just did a whole bunch of reading and youtube vid watching on the TK-40 and that will definitely be one of the main flashlights I'll buy for the family. May be too much to hang by the side of a loaded emergency backpack though so my search continues.



Yea, it probably would take up room better served by more water or food etc, and won't just clip on the outside of the pack. It would last a long time and have a wide range of possibilities, but like you said if you had to travel a few days to a camp etc, you would be better off with a smaller light.

As someone earlier in the thread said, when it gets dark chances are you won't need a bright light, just enough to navigate from the makeshift potty, or to throw together something to eat.

Still, as a flashoholic, I personally would make room.


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## Brigadier (Mar 4, 2010)

LightningFox said:


> Yes exactly. You totally read my mind. So this goes for everyone:
> 
> Assume a disaster strikes (quake, flood, tornado, whatever), your home is destroyed and you know you could be spending a long long time (days, weeks) outdoors, no battery supplies anywhere. Worst case scenario, you need to walk for days over rocky-rough terrain to the nearest point of help and its raining. You pop the trunk of your (dead) car and pull your survival gear and your flashlight. What flashlight would this be?
> 
> Remember you'll be hauling a huge backpack with all your survival crap inside (MREs, water, clothes, tent, sleeping bag, etc).


 
Considering that the survival backpack in my van has 1 dozen CR123 primaries in a Pelican case, http://www.batteryjunction.com/pelican-combo-cr123a.html this is no problem.....spare batteries are there. And since all my lights are CR123 powered, they can double as battery carriers too. So, what's the issue with CR123's again? :thinking:


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## Mr Bigglow (Mar 4, 2010)

Brigadier said:


> Considering that the survival backpack in my van has 1 dozen CR123 primaries in a Pelican case, http://www.batteryjunction.com/pelican-combo-cr123a.html this is no problem.....spare batteries are there. And since all my lights are CR123 powered, they can double as battery carriers too. So, what's the issue with CR123's again? :thinking:


 
I've been in a situation where the power went out in the dark of winter and over hundreds of square miles for literally several weeks (the eastern Ice Storm of 1998). There were NO AA (or D) batteries available in a store or ANYWHERE after the middle of the second day, so relying on a few of them with the ideal that replacements will be available due to their popularity would be a truly BAD idea. My previously mentioned bank of Freeplay lights are the result of those weeks- that is for home use. If backpack portability is the big issue then in a drastic end-of-the-world-as-we-know-it hike yourself out of it situation such as is suggested, a Surefire E2D LED with several sets of spare 123s is IMHO the outstandingly best choice. It's almost indestructable, has 2 lumen levels, runs for a ridiculously long time in the very useful 5 lumen mode, takes long-shelf-life batteries, and both the brightness of the light and (uniquely) both ends of the housing itself can be used for self-defense without fear of breaking the light (flashlight self defense would be something best avoided by good management but you never know). And, I originally chose my beloved E2D LED over a regular E2 because the tailcap protrusions effectively shield the end button from an accidental click-on when the tailcap is screwed down for ready use.


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## Brigadier (Mar 4, 2010)

Mr Bigglow said:


> If backpack portability is the big issue then in a drastic end-of-the-world-as-we-know-it situation such as is suggested, a Surefire E2D LED with several sets of spare 123s is IMHO the outstandingly best choice. It's almost indestructable, has 2 lumen levels, runs for a ridiculously long time in the very useful 5 lumen mode, takes long-shelf-life batteries, and both the brightness of the light and (uniquely) both ends of the housing itself can be used for self-defense without fear of breaking the light (flashlight self defense would be something best avoided by good management but you never know). And, I originally chose my beloved E2D LED over a regular E2 because the tailcap protrusions effectively shield the end button from an accidental click-on when the tailcap is screwed down for ready use.


 
Agreed. Mine is a Jet-III M. The user adjustable UI is so versatile.


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## Hooked on Fenix (Mar 4, 2010)

Since I don't have a AA light with a Cree XP-G in it yet, I'd go with my Fenix L2D Q5 with the L1D and P2D body tubes and tailcaps. Nearly 60 hours on two alkalines at what seems to me to be around 12 lumens on low is a pretty useful runtime. If I had any mismatched cells or was down to one, I'd use the L1D body tube to make it a 1AA light. If AAs ran out in the store but expensive 123As were in abundance, I'd use the P2D body tube and tailcap. If a switch failed on the light, I'd have two spare switches as backups. If anything other than the head got crushed from debris during an earthquake, I might be able to still use the light with another body tube and tailcap.


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## carrot (Mar 4, 2010)

If you are carrying your flashlight, and it gets crushed, don't you get crushed as well?


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## Hooked on Fenix (Mar 4, 2010)

carrot said:


> If you are carrying your flashlight, and it gets crushed, don't you get crushed as well?



I have over 100 flashlights. Just because a flashlight, or part of it gets crushed doesn't mean it's the one I had with me at the time. If I get crushed, I'm not going to need a flashlight anymore anyways (unless I somehow survived). I keep lights on me, scattered throughout my house, and in my car. If there's an earthquake, I'll have working lights somewhere, and hopefully I won't be at the bottom of the pile of rubble.


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## jsmitty1967 (Mar 4, 2010)

I think my use of a flashlight in a survival situation would be vastly different than an everyday situation. I say this because I have total faith in many of my lights, but in a survival sitution I would be looking to navigate in the dark as opposed to light an enitire room with balanced, effectively color rendering light. Runntime would become one of the most, if not the most important factor. In light of this I think the Pak Light fits the bill really well. 200-1200 hours of run time on a 9 volt battery. The battery also has a ten year shelf life. If and when it runs out there are tons of smoke detectors that could be scavenged for cells. You can get the GITD version too!


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## LightningFox (Mar 4, 2010)

Brigadier said:


> Agreed. Mine is a Jet-III M. The user adjustable UI is so versatile.



what's the JET's website? I can't seem to find it for some reason...


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## LightningFox (Mar 4, 2010)

jsmitty1967 said:


> I think my use of a flashlight in a survival situation would be vastly different than an everyday situation. I say this because I have total faith in many of my lights, but in a survival sitution I would be looking to navigate in the dark as opposed to light an enitire room with balanced, effectively color rendering light. Runntime would become one of the most, if not the most important factor. In light of this I think the Pak Light fits the bill really well. 200-1200 hours of run time on a 9 volt battery. The battery also has a ten year shelf life. If and when it runs out there are tons of smoke detectors that could be scavenged for cells. You can get the GITD version too!



That's an excellent suggestion as a backup light too!! Didn't even realize there was such a thing and so compact too.


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## LightningFox (Mar 4, 2010)

fisk-king said:


> post #49 my thoughts exactly.:twothumbs
> 
> Now me personally, if SHTF, I will have 2 lights on my person for sure:
> 
> ...





I'm really really liking the Quark AA2 R5 (better than the Fenix LD20) but I wish very much that it had a diffuser tip accessory like the Fenix does. Any 3rd party makers out there?


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## Brigadier (Mar 4, 2010)

LightningFox said:


> what's the JET's website? I can't seem to find it for some reason...


 
I got mine from BugOutGearUSA dot com.


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## bullfrog (Mar 4, 2010)

Like a few mentioned before, it would be a mistake to NOT have a headlamp available in an emergency situation...

For this reason I have my *Surefire Saint* in my EDC bag - I love the output and runtime and you just cannot touch the modularity - runs on 1, 2 or 3 cr123s or 2 AAs...

In addition I would suggest the *Ra Clicky* or *Twisty* for bombproof toughness with respectable runtimes and the availability of a really low low.

I also have a *Malkoff M60LL in an MD2* with two stage ring as the runtime/output is exceptional.

In NYC CR123s are everywhere, so I'm not worried about not being able to find them...


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## MiniLux (Mar 4, 2010)

LightningFox said:


> I'm really really liking the Quark AA2 R5 (better than the Fenix LD20) but I wish very much that it had a diffuser tip accessory like the Fenix does. Any 3rd party makers out there?



There are a few ones available at DX. Dunno which one might (be made) fit the standard Quark head as I just own Turbo's (123^2/aa^2) and several Mini's 123 up till now):

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.24124
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.24123
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.24122

My best guess would be #24124, maybe you'd have to do some sanding at the inner side. The wall is about 2mm thick which leaves you some tolerance for that.

MiniLux


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## LightningFox (Mar 4, 2010)

MiniLux said:


> There are a few ones available at DX. Dunno which one might (be made) fit the standard Quark head as I just own Turbo's (123^2/aa^2) and several Mini's 123 up till now):
> 
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.24124
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.24123
> ...



wow that really helps!!! I feel I'm leaning very much toward getting a Quark AA2 R5 now


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## TIP AND RING (Mar 4, 2010)

Don't forget the Joule thief:
http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/bigclive/joule.htm

A very effective homebrew when placed in a PR base. The page has a link to the pcb in TIF format, but that no longer works. Sorry for any thread drift.


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## cistallus (Mar 5, 2010)

LightningFox said:


> I'm really really liking the Quark AA2 R5 (better than the Fenix LD20) but I wish very much that it had a diffuser tip accessory like the Fenix does. Any 3rd party makers out there?



Besides MiniLux' suggestions, consider making your own diffuser, see for instance: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/261301


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## pec50 (Mar 6, 2010)

Databyter said:


> Since your post was directly after mine I can only assume that you are referring to me (in a sort of patronizing way).
> 
> "This type of post seems to frequently emerge"
> 
> ...



This is good dialogue and I did not intend to be patronizing as I, quite frankly, had not read your post. Rather I was responding to the issue of OP's emergency light/survival light. I would make a distinction between that of an "emergency" light and that of a "survival" light. In a dire emergency we gravitate to a fight/flight state whereby, and even as professionals, we must with purpose focus on the "big picture" and rely heavily upon conditioning to function effectively and safely. Civilians typically have neither comparable experiential background nor the training. Additionally, the situation may be such that the individual is physically impaired e.g. shock, hypothermic, fractures etc. Hence, my recommendation of keep an emergency light simple and rugged. If I offended anyone, I am sorry, but feel I should offer advice where I can make a viable recommendation.


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## LightningFox (Mar 10, 2010)

well well, I just ordered my TK-40! :twothumbs
I tried ordering the Fenix LD20 and the Quark AA2 R5 but both are sold out. :mecry:


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## Raymond3 (Mar 23, 2010)

My wife and I like to have enough light in an emergency to allow us to continue most of our regular activities, not as little as we absolutely require to survive. So, our choice for emergency light, is the same ones we use during normal times: either a bored Surefire 6P or C2 with Malkoff M61 or Nailbender SST-50 three mode, or a Eagletac M2C4 with optional diffuser. Both the Surefires have tailstanding capacity and clicky. We use the delrin tailstand shroud with clip and xeno lantern from Dan. They take 18650, RCR123s (not the nailbender) or CR123s. We have enough of all of those around to run them for at least two weeks at two hours each night. And, in a real emergency, we can plug our recharger into the car to recharge them all again. It is real nice to be able to get a simple blast of usable light when needed. That is one of the most important features of an emergency light. All those lights effectrively light up our whole street and our neighbors houses as well when needed. It is exactly during those type of emergencies that one may find oneself in an emergency situation requiring lots of light.

On the other hand, we have really become accustomed to getting by at night with lesser amounts too, and the quark mini AA has become my favorite. It fits on the keyring and so is physically present all the time, provides super long run times with a usable low and medium, as well as having (with the 14500 kept charged) lots of light for short term uses. It tail stands easily, and drains power from "dead" AAs and AAAs that other devices reject. We keep a separate box of those dead batteries that are saved for using as night lights, (we just can't use them up it seems) and those will certainly be handy for low light use in an emergency too. 

So, our final solution is a combination of lights, and why not? Our home is big enough and we use them regularrly even when not in an emergency, so we are familiar with how they work.


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