# SHADOW SL3 Compact tri-XML (1 x 18/26650) Review



## turboBB (Nov 15, 2012)

*S*hadow has been around for a short while now. I previously picked up two of their older lights (both JM07-Pro's) that while nice, didn't sufficiently stir my inner-flashaholic. I was recently provided with an opportunity to review some of their newer lights that looked pretty interesting so I decided this would be a great chance to have a second look at their offerings. The first up is the SL3, a compact tri-XML light that reminds me of Lumapower's dMini series but in a larger format; 26650-sized to be precise:



I'm holding my breath hoping to be a bit more impressed this time around, let's see how that turns out... 


*MFG SPECS*
• 3x Cree XM-L U2 LED with lifespan of 50,000 hours,Maximum output of 1500 lumens.
• Digitally regulated output, maintains constant brightness.
• Low voltage warning flash.
• Side switch on body of flashlight for on/off operation (Hold button for more than 1 second). Hold switch further to enable mode switching between 3 light modes (High, Medium, Low) and 1 strobe mode accessed via quick double click (Strobe can be accessed regardless if the flashlight is on or off)
• Smooth Aluminum reflector.
• Long throw flashlight with illumination past 200 meters. (24,000 lux @ 1m)
• Made of durable 6061 aluminum alloy.
• CNC manufactured.
• Stainless steel bezel.
• Toughened ultra-clear glass lens.
• Premium Hard Anodized Type III grey finish. Scratch resistant and anti-abrasive.
• IPX-8 waterproof. 
• 142mm(Length)x32mm(Body)x63.5mm(Head).
• 220g weight (batteries not included).
• Powered by Li-ion battery: 1x26650. 
• Test run(Powered by 1x26650,capacity of 3.7V/4000mAh,Kingcell brand in China):
High mode: 1.6 hrs,1500lm.
Med. mode: TBD hrs.
Low mode: over TBD hrs.
• Versatility of exploration,searching,camping,hunting,cycling,patrol,outworks etc.
• Included accessories: lanyard/O rings/glass lens.


*PACKAGING / CONTENTS*
The SL3 arrived in generic Eco packaging with decent foam cushioning:


 

 

 

Accessories included are:
- 2 x small o-ring's
- lanyard
- spare lens (& corresponding o-ring)





*CONDENSED VIDEO SUMMARY*
Here is a quick high-level video summary of the SL3 while while I work on fleshing out this review:



*DESIGN & FEATURES*
The SL3 features a SS bezel that should be removable but thus far I haven't been able to do so:


 

 
There is no AR coating on the lens.

The emitters are each centered perfectly within it's own housing in the tri-flector:




At first blush, the head looks identical to that on the JM26 but it's actually a little shallower and also lacks certain machined grooves:


 

 
L: SL3 | R: JM26

The throat of the light houses the side-switch that features a nice SS ring around it:


 

 
The collar that the side-switch rests in features alternating textured curved and flat sides.

With the exception of a "plug" at the base (more later), the battery tube is milled as a single piece (that is, there is no tailcap) and again features a blend of symmetrical machined grooves and design motifs that I feel works well:


 

 
There are two flat surfaces where the model and company name are laser etched.

The base of the tube is finished off with milled grooves that run parallel with the tube:


 

 
Carrying on the "milled as a single piece" theme, the lanyard holder holes are drilled directly into the base. The base is nice and flat so allows for pretty stable tailstanding. The non-anodized piece is actually a "plug" that is non-removable. It was explained to me that this was done for aesthetic purposes but I would've preferred that they had simply removed the anodizing rather than incorporating a separate piece but ultimately, it shouldn't compromise the water resistance.

There is a brass nodule at the base of the head, it's recessed ever so slightly so as to require a magnet when using flat-top cells. There is however a large spring in the base of the tube:


 

 


The threads aren't square-cut but did come decently greased. I did encounter a little squeaking during use, this should go away with a little more grease:


There is an optional 18650 sleeve that allows the use of said cells:






*SIZE / HANDLING*



L to R: RediLast 3400 | NITECORE TM11 | SHADOW SL3 | Sunwayman T60CS | Niteye EYE30 | Elektro Lumens Big Bruiser | ThruNite TN30

As can be seen in the pic above, the SL3, while not the shortest in overall length is the most compact in overall dimensions. To be fair, and keeping things in perspective the only other single cell light here is the Big Bruiser while all the others handle a minimum of three cells.

UPDATE: Here's a more recent shot w/out lens distortion:






L to R (both pics): NITECORE TM11 | Shadow SL3 | NITECORE TM26 | Sunwayman T60CS | Niteye EYE30 | APEX 5T6

The 26650-sized form-factor feels great in my medium-sized hand with either overhand or underhand grip:


 


The button is soft-enough that it can be easily triggered with the pinkie in on overhand grip and is also large enough so use with gloves shouldn't be a problem.


*FIT & FINISH*
Save for some blotches on the anodized finish, the SL3 is possibly the best fit & finish-wise of the Shadow lights I've tested. Starting with the anodized finishing, the body is slightly darker vs. the head:



NOTE: Flash intentionally used to highlight shading differences.

Overall, the anodizing has been applied well with none missing in the crevices, texturing or around edges:
 

 

 

However, there are these blotches all over the tube that is more noticeable than on the JM26:




The SS bezel threads on flush and the laser engravings are also nice and sharp with no blotchiness:


 

 


However, as can be seen, the Company name and model are not centered vertically in the oblong machined groove; the Shadow name just about rests on the bottom of the edge.

While the threads are not square-cut, they came decently greased and proved to be trouble-free during use with the occasional squeakiness.

Overall, the SL3 is a solidly constructed light that should stand up to a fair amount of abuse especially in consideration of its two piece build. One nice thing that I didn't observe here (but did on the JM26) is that there is no huge overrun of glue around the switch:





*UI*
The UI on the JM26 is very straightforward. To turn it on, depress and hold on the side-switch for at least two seconds. Once on, each depress of the side-switch will cycle through the three output levels: H > M > L. Strobe can be activated at any time with the light on or off by depressing the switch twice; this can also be used as a work-around to the two second-delay by activating the strobe first and then depressing the switch one more time to exit out of it and activating H. To shut off the light, hold the side-switch again for two seconds or just quickly lock-out the light and twist the tube back on.

As with the rest of their lights with a side-switch, it is fairly easy to accidentally activate the strobe while cycling through the output levels since the spacing isn't tight enough. There is no memory so it'll always come on in H, to expound; if you last used the light in L and then either shut-off the light or change the batteries, the light will always come on in H. There is no electronic lock-out but the light can be physically locked-out since the threads are anodized.


*BEAMSHOTS
Indoors (5m)
*High






 

 



Med


 

 



Low


 

 

*
*For details of the above indoor shots and comparo vs. many other lights, please check Epic Indoor Shots Trilogy


*RUNTIME & OUTPUT
*The relevant battery stats are provided above each runtime graph along with: 
- Voltage of the battery at the start and end of the test
- Current draw
- Actual runtime using ANSI FL1 (first in HR and then in M so for the KK on High, read this as 1.9hrs *or* 113min)
- NEW (as of May 2012): Lumens measured on my PVC LMD @ 30 seconds
- Also for High, captured the temperature: ambient, the head/fins at start and the max it reached (fan was used for all bats)



Max output measured @ 30 seconds was 1630lms w/an AW IMR 18650 (1600mAh).

The SL3 runs semi-regulated at turn-on until step down which is timed based on voltage sag. as can be seen, the KK with its higher capacity and likely lower voltage sag can run for aprox. 6.5 minutes before stepping down. While it's not the longest before the LVW (Low Voltage Warning) kicks in, it does offer the highest sustained semi-regulated output over that run.

With an optional spacer, the SL3 is capable of running on a single 18650 cell (must be able to handle 4.5A draw sustained) so I included three of those cells in this testing. The RL3400 offers the longest run overall but it does a weird second step-down shortly after 35 minutes and then has a long drawn out gradual decrease in output before the LVW kicked in at about 2hrs.

Given the relatively aggressive step down, the SL3 doesn't get hot at all, provided High is not reactivated again.

It's worth noting that with all the cells, by the time LVW activates, the SL3 can still run BUT the voltage will be around 3V at this time so one should replace and charge the cell immediately.

Here in order for each cell are measurements for:
* step-down; time + avg lms in first minute thereafter
* medium; average lms in first minute + current draw and calculated runtime
* low; average lms in first minute + current draw and calculated runtime
* stand-by; since the SL3 utilizes an electronic switch, the current draw + calculated time^ before cell is drained



^ doesn't consider the cell's own self-discharge so overall the time will be less


*CONCLUSION*
(exhales...) WHEW! OK, so after spending a decent amount of time now with the SL3, I gotta say that I'm pretty impressed with it. It is one of the smallest multi-XM-L, single-cell light currently available and packs a decent punch both output and throw-wise. Both it and its fraternal twin, the JM26, feature very solid builds and should stand up to some hard use. Subjectively, I really like the styling; some may find that all the machined grooves lead to a busy look but it's got an industrial design to it. I feel Shadow is moving in the right direction with their recent releases but while the overall fit and finish is pretty good, I'd like to see them bump it up a notch. They seem to have done that between the first JM07 release and this batch so I'm optimistic they'll do it again with their future models. In particular, I'd like to see them revise the UI but for now though, here are my thoughts:

*turboBB-licious*

truly compact powerhouse offering >1600lms in a stout form-factor
optional sleeve allows use of 18650 cells thus increasing flexibility of fuel source (however, given high current draw before step down, cell must be able to sustain 4.5A draw)
anodized threads allow physical lock-out
two-piece setup feels very solid

*turboBB-cautious*

brass nodule in head slightly recessed requiring use of magnet with flat-top cells
some blotches in the anodization
quick cycling of output levels can accidentally trigger strobe

*turboBB-wishes*

holster
spring in place of the brass nodule positive contact point
revised driver that would allow 2-cell operation with extension tube
reduce time required to turn on light from two-seconds down to one
tighten-up timing required to activate strobe
electronic lock-out feature
AR coated lens
more output levels implemented via different UI (a la Zebralight)


*SL3 GALLERY*


=======
SL3 provided by sbflashlights.com for review.


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## Bwolcott (Nov 16, 2012)

This is a great light I absolutely love mine, thank you for the review!


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## ZRXBILL (Nov 16, 2012)

I also couldn't be happier with mine and I'm glad your output reading is even higher that what the mfg. quotes. Do you have lumen readings for med. & low?


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## turboBB (Nov 16, 2012)

Thx guys! I'll get readings for med and low over the weekend.

Cheers,
Tim


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## houtex (Nov 19, 2012)

Thanks to your review, one is on the way home.


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## ZRXBILL (Nov 19, 2012)

houtex said:


> Thanks to your review, one is on the way home.



You're going to love it, I do.


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## K9Patrol (Nov 19, 2012)

Regarding the plug on the tail of the light; could this be a safety blow-out for battery failure? I imagine it would turn the flashlight into a rocket, though


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## turboBB (Nov 20, 2012)

@ZRXBILL - Average lms for Med and Low added to the Current Draw chart. The reason why I say average is because the light actually "flickers" (as if it's PWM but I'm not really sure it is since I haven't set up my oscilloscope). I'm sensitive to PWM but don't really notice it, however, I can just make it on a fan (more so on Med than Low). I've also added the avg lumens after step down.

@houtex - Congrats! Please do post your impressions once you receive it.

@K9Patrol - I highly doubt that was the main reason (otherwise it would've been touted as a feature). I'd be truly impressed the day that a mfg incorporates a safety one-way "blow-off" valve that is able to release pressure immediately upon vent but yet still be able to maintain decent water resistance.

I should have rest of review fleshed out this week. Just have a whole bunch of other lights in the queue as well.

Cheers,
Tim


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## ZRXBILL (Nov 21, 2012)

Thanks Tim.:thumbsup:


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## houtex (Nov 21, 2012)

I got it. Out the box , beautiful. The ano finish is some of the best I've seen. reminds of the Arcmania lights in color and smoothness(sp).

At first, it would NOT come on!! WTH!! Then I looked down inside there was an extra spring. Out came the spring and WHAM! 

Really bright, white (not blue, not green,) white light.

Next to my TM11 ,the Nitecore looks neutral. (TM11 v2) 

To my eyes the hotspot of the Shadow is smaller but brighter, has more throw (but not by that much) and has less spill.

I'm lovin this light.

Where was this light when I got the TM?

My TM cost around $300 with batteries, the Shadow less than $100 with battery and shipping.


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## Bwolcott (Nov 25, 2012)

houtex said:


> I got it. Out the box , beautiful. The ano finish is some of the best I've seen. reminds of the Arcmania lights in color and smoothness(sp).
> 
> At first, it would NOT come on!! WTH!! Then I looked down inside there was an extra spring. Out came the spring and WHAM!
> 
> ...




I just got a tm11 and I took it out and compared it to my sl3 and I prefer the sl3, just like you said the spill is brighter then the tm11 with a bit more throw, not quite as much spill but still has plenty


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## jbrett14 (Dec 7, 2012)

This may be a very stupid question, but after receiving my new SL3, I cannot figure out what the 2 small spare O-rings are for. They are too small to replace the main O-ring on the body. What exactly are those 2 small O-rings for?


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## turboBB (Dec 9, 2012)

It's likely that they included the wrong o-rings (e.g. I noticed that the TC750X and TC350 have the same o-rings). Best to reach out to your dealer to inquire about this.


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## jbrett14 (Dec 9, 2012)

I emailed the dealer I bought it from and never received a response. Odd!

They look like nice quality O-rings, and the odd part is that the 2 smaller ones that they sent are not even the same size with each other. So now I have THREE different sized O-rings, with only ONE that actually fits. Odd!


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## Bwolcott (Dec 10, 2012)

jbrett14 said:


> I emailed the dealer I bought it from and never received a response. Odd!
> 
> They look like nice quality O-rings, and the odd part is that the 2 smaller ones that they sent are not even the same size with each other. So now I have THREE different sized O-rings, with only ONE that actually fits. Odd!




did you buy it from sbflashlights? they usually are really good about getting back to emails


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## jbrett14 (Dec 10, 2012)

Bwolcott said:


> did you buy it from sbflashlights? they usually are really good about getting back to emails



Yes, Jason just responded tonight. He is taking care of it.


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## RBH (Dec 14, 2012)

My experience with Jason has been 100% positive.

Bruce



jbrett14 said:


> Yes, Jason just responded tonight. He is taking care of it.


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## MattSPL (Dec 14, 2012)

I got my SL3 a couple of days ago from sbflashlights. Really nice light


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## jbrett14 (Dec 14, 2012)

MattSPL said:


> I got my SL3 a couple of days ago from sbflashlights. Really nice light



What battery are you using in it?


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## MattSPL (Dec 15, 2012)

jbrett14 said:


> What battery are you using in it?



I have tried Panasonic CGR18650CH, Senybor IMR(Panasonic CGR18650CH), and Enerpower+ 2900mAh 3C.

I measured 4.68A with the Panasonic/Senybor, and 4.64A with the Enerpower+

I have a couple of MNKE 26650's on the way.


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## jbrett14 (Jan 30, 2013)

My Shadow appears to be eating my batteries. I can put a fully charged battery in it and after about 1 week of no use, it will be completely dead. This has happened to 3 different batteries of different brands. Does anyone else have this problem?

Note: With these same batteries the like works great if I use it that day.


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## MattSPL (Jan 31, 2013)

The light has an electronic switch, so does use some power even when off, but it shouldn't use that much. 
My sl3 can sit there for a couple of weeks, including occasional short bursts of usage and still have over 4 volts in the battery.


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## jbrett14 (Jan 31, 2013)

Mine is definitely defective. Last night, after inserting another freshly charged battery, I turned it on to make sure it was working properly, before I was to give it the shelf test. All seemed well. I then turned it off (I am 100% certain of this) and set it face down on my bookshelf, in hopes of determining exactly how many days it would take to discharge. About an hour later, as I was going to bed, I noticed a glow between the bezel and the bookshelf that it was setting on. I picked it up and nearly burned my hand. The light had come ON all by itself. So I quickly attempted to turn it off to no avail. It would NOT turn off. I thought, what the ..., I have never had a light that wouldn't turn OFF. So I quickly unscrewed it, let it cool down a bit, and screwed it back together. Immediately the light turned on without even using the switch.

This morning, it appeared to work again. But given that, since I have had this light, it has eaten every battery that I have put in it, in less than a week's time of NO use, it is clearly defective. At first, I thought it was my battery, until I started trying different batteries.

Time to see how good customer service is at SB.


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## MattSPL (Jan 31, 2013)

Hopefully you get it sorted


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## jbrett14 (Jan 31, 2013)

It is being sent back to SB tomorrow, for a replacement. 

I hope this is not common for this brand. Although the cost is much less than many of the other brands in these forums, it's still a LOT more than lights I have owned that have NEVER failed. I could see a $5 light doing this, but not one that cost 10 times as much.

Has anyone else had failures with this light?


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## MattSPL (Feb 1, 2013)

jbrett14 said:


> It is being sent back to SB tomorrow, for a replacement.
> 
> I hope this is not common for this brand. Although the cost is much less than many of the other brands in these forums, it's still a LOT more than lights I have owned that have NEVER failed. I could see a $5 light doing this, but not one that cost 10 times as much.
> 
> Has anyone else had failures with this light?



I haven't heard of any problems with this brand before.

I took my sl3 apart to mod it, and its really well made


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## jbrett14 (Feb 1, 2013)

I appreciate those words Matt, as they help restore my confidence in this light. 

I have always been a bit skeptical of lights with electronic switches, including my 3 Zebralights. Could they turn on by themselves, even out of a pocket, just setting there? Apparently they can. I don't know how, but they can. This not only caused me to lose confidence in this particular light, but also in my Zebralights.

I wish one of these makers would make their lights with a mechanical side switch option. I envision my JetBeam BA20 having a side switch instead of at the tail end. What an awesome light that would be. Even better in an 18650 version. I don't know of any quality lights that have a mechanical side switch. I suppose it's because so many customer's want many modes.


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## MattSPL (Feb 1, 2013)

I felt the same way about electronic switches initially, but I like the SL3 and the olight S10 I have also.

There is probably a faulty chip, or a short between the legs of a chip on the circuit board of your sl3. I encountered both those problems after soldering more chips into my sl3, and it gave the light symptoms similar to what you are experiencing.


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## holylight (Feb 15, 2013)

good review as usual. tyvm


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## carl (Mar 6, 2013)

Is everyone still liking the light? Any other problems? Seems like a good size light - handle not too big.

Does anyone know the standby battery drain from the electronic switch?

Would prefer a lower low and mode memory.


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## orbital (Mar 6, 2013)

carl said:


> Is everyone still liking the light? Any other problems? Seems like a good size light - handle not too big.
> 
> Does anyone know the standby battery drain from the electronic switch?
> 
> Would prefer a lower low and mode memory.



+

carl, I picket up this light 5~6 weeks ago and it may be the best value in a _turn key_ light I'v ever owned.
The anodize is fantastic and the build quality is very nice w/ good attention to detail.

It could be a $150 JetBeam, easily!!

It throws much better than you would think in a triple,, the reflectors are each parabolic with the hotspots joining perfectly.
Running a IMR in it and starting on High is fine for me in a big output light . 
Haven't noticed a strange cell drain at all

To be honest, the electronic switch is a bit small and pressing for a couple seconds to fire up isn't my favorite, 
but all it's other pluses more than make up for it.

High mode is a real blast...

hope that helps


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## jbrett14 (Mar 6, 2013)

Other than that problem I had with my first light, I love this light. Nice feel, not a bad UI, and wonderful output. But I have yet to REALLY use it. I will be using it quite a bit in the next couple weeks though. Plan to light up some wildlife at night for some photography.


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## houtex (Mar 7, 2013)

orbital, would you say it is brighter on an IMR?

I feel like it is but I only have the one light so I have to switch batteries to compare.


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## orbital (Mar 7, 2013)

houtex said:


> orbital, would you say it is brighter on an IMR?
> 
> I feel like it is but I only have the one light so I have to switch batteries to compare.



+

In the same boat, in that I only have IMR 26650 at the moment.
non pcb cells always give better output


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## houtex (Mar 8, 2013)

Thanks orbital.

I love this light. Huge output/price/quality ratio.

I would like to see a forward clicky and maybe an optional 2 x 26650 tube though, but then again, is any light ever perfect?


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## turboBB (Apr 29, 2013)

Carl - the standby draw is ~.58 mA and is reasonably trivial (see chart in review for calc. standby time). 

All, indoor shots now added.


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## carl (Apr 29, 2013)

thanks turboBB!


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## spaz815 (May 22, 2013)

Got my light. Sucks it came with one of the 3 leds dead. Its still bright as hell. So I emailed where I bought the light from. They said they would send me a driver so I could switch it out. Has anyone did this? How hard is it? Please let me know. Besides that I love the light. Its small with a big punch. I can't wait to see it with all 3 leds running. Thanks


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## MattSPL (May 22, 2013)

spaz815 said:


> Got my light. Sucks it came with one of the 3 leds dead. Its still bright as hell. So I emailed where I bought the light from. They said they would send me a driver so I could switch it out. Has anyone did this? How hard is it? Please let me know. Besides that I love the light. Its small with a big punch. I can't wait to see it with all 3 leds running. Thanks



It sounds like a faulty LED, not the driver. I have removed the driver and added chips to mine. Removing the driver is fairly easy, but if the driver was faulty it would show a problem in all 3 LED's.


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## turboBB (Jul 5, 2013)

Review now completed.


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## Gobias (Nov 8, 2013)

Howdy! My first message here in CPF, i've been a ghost here for a long time. 

We moved from city to countryside and i was in desperate need for a good light, i've previously owned few Maglites and other no-named junk. So i ordered SL3, holster, Nitecore i2 charger 
and Panasonic 26650 battery, SL3 + charger from FastTech. I charged the battery, took my dog with me and we headed to a dark road. I was completely stunned from the power of this light.  "No more Mr. Maglites!"

I noticed few changes to the light that was reviewed here: 

- There is a spring now on the upper part of the light
- I have 3 modes (low-med-hi) for the light + strobe, starts with lowest setting (no memory yet)

Overall quality is good, i like how small the light is. I can keep it in my pocket easily. Now i need a more floodier light with more power + longer battery life. Recommendations?


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## MattSPL (Nov 13, 2013)

You'll probably need something like am nitecore tm26 which takes 4 x 18650 cells. Get some Panasonic 3400mAh cells for it and you should get decent runtimes. There might be a review of the tm26 on Cpf.

There are also other 4x18650 lights that might suit.


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## jbrett14 (Nov 13, 2013)

Gobias said:


> I noticed few changes to the light that was reviewed here:
> 
> - There is a spring now on the upper part of the light
> - I have 3 modes (low-med-hi) for the light + strobe, starts with lowest setting (no memory yet)
> ...



I wish mine had that spring as some batteries do not have a deep enough button top to touch the solid contact point. If anyone knows of a remedy, please share.

As for a light with "more power", given that you bought a Shadow, I am guessing you want to keep costs down. If so, I recommend the SkyRay King. It has more output with a tremendous amount of light. Mine has been great. But I am curious what it is you need more power forr?


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## MattSPL (Nov 14, 2013)

I use non adhesive copper tape/foil folded over a few times forming a square. This sits on the positive contact of a flat top 26650 and works perfectly to make contact with the pin in the sl3.


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## jbrett14 (Nov 14, 2013)

MattSPL said:


> I use non adhesive copper tape/foil folded over a few times forming a square. This sits on the positive contact of a flat top 26650 and works perfectly to make contact with the pin in the sl3.



Thanks Matt. How do you hold it in place, or do you just hold it upright while inserting?


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## MattSPL (Nov 14, 2013)

No worries. I just hold it upright, and it gets slightly compressed in place by the pin at the head of the light.


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## orbital (Jan 25, 2014)

turboBB said:


> Carl - the standby draw is ~.58 mA and is reasonably trivial (see chart in review for calc. standby time).
> 
> All, indoor shots now added.



My SL3 was on the self for a few months w/ little if any use & turned on to low w/ a voltage of 3.6

Not a big deal, but keep in mind needing to recharge _electronic switch_ lights regularly or better yet
*just back off the battery tube threads a bit until needed* :thumbsup:

*Really one of the better values for build quality & surprisingly **good throw for a triple*


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## turboBB (Jan 25, 2014)

Agreed orbital and good advice on the recharge/lock out, I also experienced a complete drain after a few months but in my case it was down to 2.6v and damaged the cell. While the self-discharge is reasonably low, I would've prefer to have seen it in the µA territory like some of the sideswitch lights can achieve (Nitecore P25, ThruNite TN11S, etc). I've since sold this to a fellow forum member who will be modding it so I'm interested to see how that turns out but I still do have a similar light in the X3A. Might look into modding it with additional 4135's in the future if it uses the same circuit board.


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## orbital (Nov 24, 2016)

+

Just in case it was missed in the OP,, 

the Voltage warning (blink) for my unprotected 26650 was right at 3.0V


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