# Removing annodizing from threads?



## chrisse242 (Feb 18, 2006)

I have an Arc tsp that is annodized on both threaded parts. Is there any way to remove the annodizing only from those parts? For example some kind of paste that could be applied to those parts and that will "eat" the annodizing?
Any other idea?

Chrisse


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## Anglepoise (Feb 18, 2006)

Before answering, It would help to know why.

Have you modded the light and now need the threads as a current track?

Or do you want to make the threads work smoother together.

If the later, then you might try fine grinding paste from an auto supply house. Also Flitz and Brasso when smothered on the threads, and then working them together, will smooth up the action and also remove a little anodizing.

I have done this on an Aleph II, where no current had to go through the threads, and was very happy with the smoothness afterwards.

Have no experience of removing anodizing purely to let the electrons pass.


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## [email protected] (Feb 18, 2006)

Dip the threads in a lye solution , such as drain cleaner for a while and you can whipe the ano right off.


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## wasabe64 (Feb 18, 2006)

Yes! The lapping compound would be the simplest method (and you don't have to play around with any caustic chemicals). Valve lapping compound is the available at automotive supply shops, or a machinery supply shop.


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## gadget_lover (Feb 18, 2006)

If you don't want to run down to the automotive supply shop... You can simply burn fine grit sand paper to end up with a hand-full of silicon carbide and soot. Mix with a little water or light oil and you have a grinding paste.


Daniel


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## chrisse242 (Feb 18, 2006)

As far as I know, the arc tailcaps shouldn't have any annodizing on the threads as they are the way the current has to take. I think for this tailcap someone forgot to mask the threads while annodizing.
I wouldn't have a problem with the lye solution for the part that screws into the body. But for those threads that take the kroll switch, this is problematic. I don't want to harm the perfect annodizing in the surrounding areas. That's why I asked for something that could be applied to a limited area...

Chrisse


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## gadget_lover (Feb 18, 2006)

This probably won't help, BUT.... You can try getting a tap of the correct size and use that to re-cut the threads, removing the anno while you are at it. The nylon body of the kroll allows a lot of slop.

Daniel


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## cy (Feb 18, 2006)

use two teaspoons of lye to two cups of water. note you may need to adjust strength for different types of lye. 

use std masking tape over all areas not wanted to be stripped. find a plug to mask inside if desired. 

then carefully dip only part to be stripped into solution. should work in a few minutes to seconds. 

take out frequently to check stripping action. you can raise off with regular running water to check, then put back in for more stripping action. 

afterwards carefull rinse off with plenty of running water. then dip into hot water just under boiling for 1-2 minutes to seal. unmask part before dipping into hot water

opss... forgot to add. do this in your kitchen sink and wear safety glasses


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## greenLED (Feb 18, 2006)

cy said:



> opss... forgot to add. do this in your kitchen sink and wear safety glasses


...and gloves, and clothes you don't mind ruining (just in case something splashes.


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## b2eze (Feb 18, 2006)

Do you have a product called "Greased Lightning" available in you neck of the woods? (Check auto supply houses and home supply stores) If so, use it for 45 minutes soak time. I have had great sucess with it. Brush the soaked part with a soft brush and cold water afterward to stop the stripping.
I have used it to strip ano from Maglite, Peak, Gerber, and Surefire lights with very, very little surface pitting... nothing that could not be easily polished out with emery/tripoli and rouge on the lathe. I have had no ill effects with threads at all. 
Greased lightening is not as caustic as lye, can be used without gloves, and does a great job of stripping wax off a floor for peel and stick tiles as well!


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## billvan (Feb 18, 2006)

I have heard that "Simple Green" will remove... It has been banned from use near military small weapons since it removes the HA on M-16's.
Good luck and if you try it, post the results!


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## cy (Feb 18, 2006)

simple green, castrol degreasers and several other cleaner are fairly alkaline. that's the reason they will desolve anodizing. just not very fast. 

anodizing is reactive to certain types of acids and extremely reactive to alkaline substances. 

aluminum will naturally form a thin anodic layer. anodizing is the acceleration of this film. hard anodizing is achieved by subjecting part to higher amps, longer times under cooler tank temps.


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## chrisse242 (Feb 19, 2006)

Guys, thanks for all those Informations. I guess I'll find a way to do it now.

Chrisse


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## Billson (Feb 19, 2006)

gadget_lover said:


> If you don't want to run down to the automotive supply shop... You can simply burn fine grit sand paper to end up with a hand-full of silicon carbide and soot. Mix with a little water or light oil and you have a grinding paste.
> 
> 
> Daniel



I don't think this will be very effective.

Before I knew about lye, I tried using 60 grit sandpaper on an Arc LS. I spent hours sanding it without making any appreciable difference until I finally gave up and decided to use a grinder on it.


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## iknowjack (Feb 14, 2009)

You guys are awesome.

I have been wire brushing and sanding. After almost 2 hours, I said to myself, there has to be a better way!

I didn't believe anodizing that was mil spec was so easy to remove.

I have yet to try these procedures. I have a partial anodized 9P now, hoping to remove the left over with Grease Lightning, first. If doesn't work, I'll go straight to drain opening Lye.


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## greenLED (Feb 14, 2009)

Iknowjack, check out the Encyclopedia Britannica of anodizing removal.


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## iknowjack (Feb 14, 2009)

You are awesome GreenLED, Thanks for updating me on such an old thread.


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## greenLED (Feb 14, 2009)

My pleasure.


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