# 3000k LED Headlamp



## taz-d (Sep 28, 2017)

Looking for 3000k headlamp.

Seems 4500 is considered warm or neutral... But I need 3000-+.

The 3000k greatly helps with contrast walking in woods at night. Also, tracking game, it shows blood where as the "neutral" and cooler do not. 5k just wipes the trail out.

Suggestions?


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## eh4 (Sep 29, 2017)

Are the Armytek headlamps available in warm enough tints?
Check this post: 
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...nt-color-temperatures-based-on-Armytek-Wizard


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## taz-d (Sep 29, 2017)

I checked w them... no.

"We have 6500K in White and 4000K in our Warm flashlights."

To me, 4k is luke warm.


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## ven (Sep 29, 2017)

Although not 3000k, the olight h2r NW comes in at 3800k measured by maukku maybe worth a look

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...H2R-review-(Headlamp-right-angle-18650-XHP50)

Other options would be hi cri flavour zebralight, again not 3000k but 4000k ................


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## gunga (Sep 29, 2017)

Armytek high cri xml2 is 3000K.


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## taz-d (Oct 4, 2017)

According to Armytek...
" Armytek Optoelectronics Inc., Canada
Armytek Shop 
E-mail: [email protected]
Web: www.armytek.com
Dear David,

Thank you for the e-mail. We have 6500K in White and 4000K in our Warm flashlights. 

If you have some more questions, please, feel free to contact me.

Best regards,
Olivia.

Armytek Optoelectronics Inc., Canada
Phone: +1 (289)-379-99-33
Skype: armytek.canada

"


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## markr6 (Oct 4, 2017)

gunga said:


> Armytek high cri xml2 is 3000K.



That looks like the best option. Actually 3000-3300K per specs which is the warmest I've seen. Nice shot in the woods towards the end here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3rtRALj9RM


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## taz-d (Oct 4, 2017)

Your warm Armytec looks good. 

The handheld is way to blue- 

I find the contrast for walking and tracking better the warmer the K.


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## markr6 (Oct 4, 2017)

That isn't my video so I can't speak for it first hand, but it does look plenty warm on screen. I like my 4400K headlamp in the woods, but understand your needs for something even warmer.


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## taz-d (Oct 4, 2017)

For tracking a blood trail, the warmer the better... Above 5k, the trail almost disappears. Also, my eyes like it. I have amber running lights on my motorcycle along with 4k HID. To me, very nice.
I have found 3k Cree and others on 16mm & 20 mm modules. Might have to learn how to make my own.


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## gunga (Oct 4, 2017)

I have a high cri 3000K armytek wizard if you are needing one.

Edit: it uses 18650 batteries.


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## iamlucky13 (Oct 4, 2017)

taz-d said:


> Your warm Armytec looks good.
> 
> The handheld is way to blue-
> 
> I find the contrast for walking and tracking better the warmer the K.



To be clear, only the "high CRI" warm version of the Armytek is 3000K. Armytek's regular warm model is 4000K, as you already found out.

Unfortunately, I think the Tiara C1 model is the only version they are currently selling in a high-CRI version, so CR123A batteries are probably your only choice with Armytek.



taz-d said:


> For tracking a blood trail, the warmer the better... Above 5k, the trail almost disappears. Also, my eyes like it. I have amber running lights on my motorcycle along with 4k HID. To me, very nice.
> I have found 3k Cree and others on 16mm & 20 mm modules. Might have to learn how to make my own.



I think the main thing you need is a light with a good red component in the spectrum. Most white LED flashlights and headlamps are very weak in the red range, but warmer lights do tend to be better as you noted.

High CRI lights in general do much better, and although I haven't seen good data on the Cree high CRI LED's, lights with Nichia high CRI LED's are known to have fairly decent red component, even in the the 4000-5000K range. If you can find measurements or specifications (unfortunately, seldom published), a data point called the R9 value is likely to be most helpful. An R9 value around 50 is usually pretty good. In the 20's might be sufficient.

The Manker E03H is a new AA-powered headlamp available with a high CRI Nichia as one of two options. Manker is a smaller company, but generally respected, and the LED it uses is very good.

The Zebralight H53c and H53Fc are AA-powered headlamps with a high CRI Cree. They will probably also be releasing an 18650-powered version in the next few months. Zebralight is one of the top-rated brands here.


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## Derek Dean (Oct 16, 2017)

taz-d said:


> Looking for 3000k headlamp.
> 
> Seems 4500 is considered warm or neutral... But I need 3000-+.
> 
> ...


 I suggest you buy the headlamp you prefer, as far as brightness, battery type, and controls, then add a filter over the front to change the tint to your desired flavor. I've been doing this for years (as have a lot of others, including the movie and photography industries), and it works great. 

To get started, all you need to do is get a couple of the Lee Filter Swatch books (I like the Designer Style), and then spend some time trying out the various filters to find the one that works. Then cut it out to size and use some double sided tape to stick on the front of the clear glass window of your headlamp:
http://shop.leefiltersusa.com/Swatch-Book-Designers-Edition-SWB.htm 

Remember, the more color correction needed, the more light the filter will remove, which means it will make the beam a bit dimmer, so plan on purchasing a reasonably bright lamp to start with. Personally, I like Zebralights:
http://www.zebralight.com/H600-Mk-III-XHP35-Cool-White-18650-Headlamp_p_187.html

It's funny, I'm constantly seeing folks on CPF complaining about the tint of their lights, when it's just so easy to fix. I've got 4 Zebralights and a handful of other lights, and I've filtered every single one. Usually, I'm trying to get rid of that bit of green that seems to be present in most LED lights. That will typically require either a 1/8 minus green filter (which looks pink), or a 1/4 minus green filter (which looks a little pinker). 

In your case, you might need a light red or orange filter, and there are plenty to choose from in the swatch book. What's neat is, you can try one out, take it out in the field, and if it doesn't quite work, it's easy to come back home (or to your car), take it off, and try another one. 

By the way, I think you can still save $2.00 by using the code SWATCH during checkout, leaving you to only pay for the shipping, which is a little over $6.00. 

In any case, good luck and have fun : )


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## twistedraven (Oct 16, 2017)

I ordered that filter book a couple years ago, but never received confirmation or had it shipped to me.

Anyways I'm still hesitant to get another one because I'm not quite sure how the filters would handle the heat of something like an XHP70.2 putting out 5000ish lumens out the front.


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## taz-d (Oct 16, 2017)

Filters are good idea 

Still like having LED of 3k better


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## maukka (Oct 16, 2017)

ven said:


> Although not 3000k, the olight h2r NW comes in at 3800k measured by maukku maybe worth a look



Olight's NW and CW do vary quite a bit. Some H2R NW samples have been nearer to 5000K.

Filters work wonders though. Here's the Zebralight SC600Fd III Plus without and with a minus 1/8 green. Output drops about 10%. Of course they don't help tint shift within the beam or mode shift.


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## twistedraven (Oct 16, 2017)

I think filtering light out is the same trick Cree uses for their high cri home led bulbs. For their warm bulbs they filter out yellow to increase their CRI.

I wish to do the same with my XHP70.2, but I still don't know if it can handle the heat output, or how I would go about adhering it to the lens.


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## iamlucky13 (Oct 16, 2017)

twistedraven said:


> I think filtering light out is the same trick Cree uses for their high cri home led bulbs. For their warm bulbs they filter out yellow to increase their CRI.
> 
> I wish to do the same with my XHP70.2, but I still don't know if it can handle the heat output, or how I would go about adhering it to the lens.



I think you're right, with the filtering material incorporated into the phosphor or the dome. From the few spectral graphs I've seen of high CRI Cree's, the graph definitely looks like portions of the green range have been shaved slightly. In contrast, Nichia seems to use a more complex phosphor mix that has a double-hump shape in output graph, with one of those further towards the red end of the range.


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## Derek Dean (Oct 17, 2017)

twistedraven said:


> I ordered that filter book a couple years ago, but never received confirmation or had it shipped to me.
> 
> Anyways I'm still hesitant to get another one because I'm not quite sure how the filters would handle the heat of something like an XHP70.2 putting out 5000ish lumens out the front.


First, I'm surprised you didn't receive your filter book. I've ordered 8 books directly from LEE (2 at a time) over the years, and never had an issue. Did you follow up and get your money back? 

Second, Lee actually has some filters designed especially for high heat use (remember, these have been used by professional movie and theatrical companies for years), or, you could try something a very inventive CPF member did, and use a PINK HIGHLIGHTER PEN to add some pink to the front glass cover. It sounds funny,but it works. It also wipes off if you don't like it, and if you do like it, just put some clear tape over it to keep it in place : )


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## twistedraven (Oct 17, 2017)

I tried the pink highlighter pen trick once, but it made my beam entirely too pink, not to mention it wasn't an even coating.


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