# UCL For Ultrastinger Quick & Easy



## Flash_Gordon (Nov 29, 2005)

Have just finished installing a UCL in my US. This became necessary in order to use an upgraded bulb. A WA1160 will melt the stock polycarbonate lens in just a few minutes. Trust me on this. 

After thinking about different approaches and what type of adhesive might be suitable I stumbled (very scientifically of course) into a very simple solution.

Step 1: Go to flashlightlens.com Flashlight Lens
Buy this lens: 55mm Shock Isolated UCL

Step 2: Remove the plastic lens or what's left of it. Easiest way is to drill a 3/8" hole in the middle and use needle nose pliers or side cutters to remove small pieces until the remaining part of the lens can be pulled out.
Be very careful to keep tools and plastic fragments from touching the reflector.

Step 3: Remove the rubber gasket from the new lens. Clean thoroughly. Make sure the reflector is clean. Flush with distilled water if needed. Insure that the stock o-ring is installed properly on top of the reflector. Center and start by lightly pressing the new lens into the bezel.

Once it is started evenly around the perimeter, invert the bezel and firmly press down on a soft surface. I used a scrap of carpet.

Lens will seat in to stock depth and fit perfectly. The head looks absolutely original except that you now have a UCL instead of plastic lens.

With the UCL and stock metal reflector, it tolerates a current draw of about 3.75A and a little over 22W of the WA1160. The fun part is the 575 bulb lumens.

Mark


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## cyberhobo (Nov 29, 2005)

Thanks for the tip!:goodjob:


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## lite brite (Nov 29, 2005)

Sounds like a good/quick mod for my stinger..where did you get your WA1160 from? Do you know what the original bulbs lumens were? Mine is pretty bright already...but it could be brighter!  Thanks for any info, Steve


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## lite brite (Nov 29, 2005)

Never mind Flash..I typed before I searched..I hate when people do that...lol


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## Lurveleven (Dec 1, 2005)

Mark, thank you for posting this, I have been looking for a solution for the plastic lens problem in the Stinger HP heads (I use Fivemega's 3 Pila adapter and WA1331 bulb). I assume the HP head is identical to the Ultrastinger head when it comes to the lens, or is this wrong?

Sigbjoern


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## Flash_Gordon (Dec 1, 2005)

AFAIK, the HP head is the same as the stock US head except for the threads on the back.

If you measure the lens it should be 54mm. If so this procedure should work.

Just keep in mind it is one way. Once you poke out the plastic lens, it can't be reinstalled. A new head, about $23 would be required. In fact, I bought a spare US head to experiment with. I have the stock head and lens as a spare.

Mark


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## Lurveleven (Dec 1, 2005)

Thanks, I'll go ahead and order some lenses.

Sigbjoern


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## dabiscake (Dec 1, 2005)

Good tip... was hoping Chris would come up with a lens of that size, just never noticed that 55mm shock isolated lens from his site! Thanks.


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## glockboy (Dec 1, 2005)

cool.


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## dano (Dec 1, 2005)

I'm a bit skeptical. 

The plastic replacement lens has a tapered edge, and needs to be manipulated via it's flexibility to be installed past the US's head lip. The inner portion of the US head is tapered slightly, and the groove is smaller than the top rim of the head making the plastic lens snap into the groove between the reflector and head.

Therefore, any replacement lens would have to be either flexible, or smaller than the outer rim of the US head, in which case it wuldn't fit properly.

If this glass lens fits, how well does it fit, and how did it press in w/out flexing or without being damaged?

-dan


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## Flash_Gordon (Dec 1, 2005)

dano-

It fits absolutely perfectly. If I handed you this head assembly you would have to look very carefully to even notice it is not stock. The only real tipoff is the UCL glass looks a little brighter and more transparent than the polycarbonate.

The glass lens sits directly on top of the o-ring just as the plastic did. My original thought was that the UCL was slightly smaller than the lower diameter of the bezel and I would have to use some type of strong adhesive to hold it down against the pressure of the spring. 

When I first tried a test fit I realized that it was not smaller, but in fact might be a little too big. It was so close, I decided to try to force it in, following the rule that if it does not fit, force it. After cleaning, I just got it started evenly around the perimeter and then used one of those carpeted furniture cups turned upside down on the table. Moderate pressure seated it completely.

It just happens that the piece of UCL I had is the correct size to the hundredth of a mm. It will not pop out and in fact I doubt if there is any way to remove it in one piece.

Now, if I can just figure out how to get the WA1160 to stay in the little bi-pin socket and stay straight I'll be good. The light is very bright and 20 minutes on time caused no harm.

I wonder if there is some way to utilize the plastic base that is on a stock lamp as a stabilizer. I am not sure how to get the bulb out and I hate to ruin a good one for no reason. Any ideas?

Mark


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## dano (Dec 1, 2005)

Hmm...I wonder if my older US head is slightly larger (or was redesigned slightly; SL likes to do that sort of thing). I tried putting a UCL lens from my SL-20X (both 55MM) and there;'s no way the glass lens was going to fit the US. The edges started chipping, etc.

I've never tried a W/A bulb, I'm afraid that it'll ruin the bi-pin contacts in the switch.

-dan


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## Flash_Gordon (Dec 1, 2005)

55mm is too big. The lens I bought was the 55mm shock isolated. When you remove the rubber gasket from around the edge it mics out to just a hair under 54mm.


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## Lurveleven (Dec 13, 2005)

I tried this on a HP head and even though it looked like it would work at the beginning, the result was a lens in thousand pieces when I applied pressure 

Sigbjoern


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## Flash_Gordon (Dec 13, 2005)

Lurveleven said:


> I tried this on a HP head and even though it looked like it would work at the beginning, the result was a lens in thousand pieces when I applied pressure
> 
> Sigbjoern


Bummer. Sorry to hear you had this bad result. Mine went right in when I applied moderate pressure on the upside down carpeted furniture cup.
It is tight, but really could not fit more perfectly.

How did you apply your pressure? I think applying equal pressure around the perimeter is very necessary. It is not impossible that there is a slight variation in the size of the glass, although both of mine measure the same.

I have not heard from anyone else with either positive or negative results.

Mark


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## Lurveleven (Dec 13, 2005)

The problem was probably that I wasn't able to apply equal pressure. It may have been a size issue as well, small glass fragmenst chipped off before applying pressure to it, i.e. when I centered it and applied slight pressure with my fingers.
I'm wondering if heating the head with a heat gun will expand it enough to put the lens in without pressure?

Sigbjoern


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## Flash_Gordon (Dec 13, 2005)

Lurveleven said:


> The problem was probably that I wasn't able to apply equal pressure. It may have been a size issue as well, small glass fragmenst chipped off before applying pressure to it, i.e. when I centered it and applied slight pressure with my fingers.
> I'm wondering if heating the head with a heat gun will expand it enough to put the lens in without pressure?
> 
> Sigbjoern


Heat might help. However that bezel is a pretty large, fairly thick, chunk of metal. I think it would take quite a bit of heat applied around the entire circumference.

Before I just pressed mine in, I had considered putting a thin film of silicone lube on the edge of the glass. I was concerned that some of it might migrate to the underside of the lens with no good way to clean it. I still think a very thin film of silicone on the edge would help.

Mark


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## Lurveleven (Jan 8, 2006)

Never give up on the first try, I have now been able to get the glass lens in there 
I put the head into the oven at 200°C a couple of minutes and then I put the lens into the head using a suction cup connected to a rod. Using the suction cup it was very easy to align the lens correctly and to apply pressure to get the lens to pop into place. Very little pressure was needed to get it into place, I believe the heating made a big difference.

Picture of using suction cup to put in lens:






Sigbjoern


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## Flash_Gordon (Jan 8, 2006)

Lurveleven said:


> Never give up on the first try, I have now been able to get the glass lens in there.
> I put the head into the oven at 200°C a couple of minutes and then I put the lens into the head using a suction cup connected to a rod. Using the suction cup it was very easy to align the lens correctly and to apply pressure to get the lens to pop into place. Very little pressure was needed to get it into place, I believe the heating made a big difference.



Excellent! I never thought of this and luckily got by using my crude technique. If I make another, or have to replace the lens due to breakage, I'll use your method. I would have had some concern about discoloring the finish on the reflector, but apparently a few minutes exposure at about 400°F is not an issue.

Mark


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## Lips (Jan 8, 2006)

Great mod, Thanks for the info :rock: Gonna order a lens pronto!



I have a 3600mah battery in both my current ultrastingers for around 2hr runtimes with stock bulbs. I wonder how much runtime I will get with the 1160 bulb?

Would it be wise to put a little piece of mica under the bulb on this mod like the magcharger.

The wa1160 in a magcharger is definatley brighter wider beam than the stock US. The US with 1160 should give a brighter tighter throw than the MC.

:thumbsup:


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## Flash_Gordon (Jan 8, 2006)

Hi Lips-

I have two aftermarket 3000 mAh sticks plus my stock NiCd stick for my US. I did not do a straight runtime test with the 1160, because I just did not want to let it sit there and run. Lots of heat from this setup plus it just takes life off the expensive lamp. In routine use I have not noticed that the runtime seems too short. With three batteries to rotate I'll always have at least two that are fully charged.

You have to do something to stabilize the 1160 lamp. At first I tried just sticking the two legs into the bi-pin socket, but it would not reliably stay in or remain correctly positioned. I solved this by very carefully wiggling the stock lamp until I could pull it out of the stock lamp holder, leaving the ceramic potting behind . Before doing this, I measured the height of the filament above the top of the lamp holder. I was able to insert the pins of the 1160 through the original holes in the potting material in the holder and seat it properly. Then trimmed the leads to the proper length to go into the bi-pin socket. The lamp is perfectly held and aligned.

The beam is just awesome. There is a narrow center beam that throws like crazy. I adjust the focus on this portion of the beam until the donut hole is gone. This is surrounded by a huge cone of spill that lights up everything in the near field beautifully. We had a very light fog the other night. This enabled me to actually see the entire beam structure for the first time. Very symmetrical and very clean.

I am very happy with this fairly simple mod. I can't give you a direct comparison to the MagCharger as I do not have one.

Mark


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## Lips (Jan 8, 2006)

Flash_Gordon

Thanks for the lamp seating tip. I would have probably been drilling that glass lens out to fix the alignment. I only ordered one lens so hope I get it right the first time. 

The MC 1160 with a Fivemega alum LOP gives a much wider beam even at tight focus than the stock US but still has same throw if not slightly more. 

Can't wait to try this out. Will report back.

Thanks again.

Vic


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## Lips (Jan 13, 2006)

Flash_Gordon

Quick question:

What do you do it the buld gets out of alignment once the new lens has been installed. S... out of luck?


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## Flash_Gordon (Jan 13, 2006)

Lips said:


> Flash_Gordon
> 
> Quick question:
> 
> What do you do it the buld gets out of alignment once the new lens has been installed. S... out of luck?


No problem. You can still unscrew the head assembly from the body tube and the lamp and its holder are exposed as always.


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## Lips (Jan 13, 2006)

Man I feel stupid, and I told the other guy about focusing the US


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## Lips (Jan 14, 2006)

Hey Flash Gordon

I have successfully completed my (3600mah battery) Ultra Stinger UCL lens and 1160 bulb upgrade. Although it was not as a big of an improvement in brightness as putting a WA1160 in a Magcharger (FM LOP) it made the Ultra Stinger brighter with the same tight throw as the stock version, much tighter than the Magcharger. The Ultra Stinger must have some resistance in the switch or the bulb holder which cuts down on the brightness increase, probably under driving the bulb. Centering and stabilizing the bulb is a must as well as filament height. All in all I am happy so far with the Mod. Thanks for your help.


Some points on the MOD:

Be careful drilling the stock lens as the bit may catch and hit the reflector, mine almost did. Lens comes out with a little cutting and work. Cleaned particles up with canned air and a little alcohol. I used a paper clip and sharpie to mark the height of the filament. I used a paper clip to make the holes in the ceramic a little larger because the legs on the WA1160 are larger. I took a small drill bit by hand and carefully made an indention in the ceramic holder for the bulb to seat a little lower for filament height alignment and stability. I had trouble getting the lens to pop into place. I too put mine in the oven like Lurveleven. The oven may have caused mine to expand too much. I used a suction cup on the lens after cleaning the underside extensively. Turned the head over to apply the pressure. If you do it glass up that pushes the reflector out and lens will not seat. Mine never clicked but it is in there and won't come out! A small flake on side of lens appeared no problem. Obvious to the pros but not newbs, never touch the builds with your fingers, if you do wipe them down with alcohol. It was a fun mod and nothing was very difficult. Don't try it like me while you are on the phone with GF talking about BS. Concentrate! Thanks to Flash for turning me on to this MOD.

Anyone have any improvements to the MOD or US!


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## lebox97 (Feb 16, 2006)

flash_gordon found a source for new reflectors (the coating on mine wiped off with a finger! ) $6.40
http://www.streamlightonline.com/fl...replacement_parts/775011_reflector.asp?bhcp=1

a heated head and two cracked in half lens later - am still figuring out how to put in the UCL... works ok for now (with the crack through the middle) but dang!


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## dano (Feb 17, 2006)

I think there may be an issue with the uCL lens mod, and that is due to the two different US head versions:

Early US's had a one piece head design, where the reflector and head were one piece. The latest US's have a two piece head design, with the reflector being a seperate piece to the head.

My very early US head will not take a glass lens, no matter what size. I haven't tried it with a two-piece head assembly.

-dan


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## Flash_Gordon (Feb 17, 2006)

I was not aware of the different heads. Mine has a separate reflector with an o-ring that sits on the top edge.

Like all mods, even fairly simple ones, there can be difficulties. I am very happy with the outcome I got.

On mine, I just kept lowering the bulb height until I got it to focus perfectly in about the middle of the turning range. I tried to figure out an accurate way to measure and mark the filament (like Lips did), but resorted to trial and error.

I have no accurate way to measure the before and after output. It seems brighter with the 1160. One thing for sure is I got a much much bigger spill and beautifully coned shaped too.

Mark


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## Lips (Feb 17, 2006)

I love mine modded. When my aftermarket 3600mah NIMH battery stick sits on trickle charge for a long time it needs to be tricked to put battery at peak full charge. The ceramic plug keeps the bulb nice and centered also. Great mod! :rock:


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## Flash_Gordon (Feb 17, 2006)

Hi Lips-

The stock SL charger does not work well with the NiMh sticks. I don't know if it actually does damage, but it does not sense the the end of charge signal. I use the stock charger on the NiCd in the light if I want to use it.

I got one of these: NiMh Charger and it works great. I rotate my two NiMh sticks and always have a ready spare.

I built a modified version of Cy's charging clamp and it works out really well.
Charging Clamp.

Mark


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## MSI (Feb 17, 2006)

The Stinger HP head (that is sold separatly to upgrade your Stinger) is one piece, no separate reflector, and the mod works in that as well.


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## dano (Feb 17, 2006)

MSI said:


> The Stinger HP head (that is sold separatly to upgrade your Stinger) is one piece, no separate reflector, and the mod works in that as well.



That's the same style of head the early US's used. I can't get a glass lens in there, no matter what's tried.

Anyways, if you don't want to use a NIMH pack, the SL-20X/LED uses a 2400MAH NiCad stick (Ultrastinger stock batteries are 1800MAH), which is compatible with the Ultrastinger charging cradle, and it will give you some extra run time.


--dan


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## dw51 (Aug 5, 2006)

Anyone try this mod with a WA 1111? Is it possible or am I asking for trouble? How bout a 1111 in a Mag Charger?


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## fivemega (Aug 6, 2006)

dw51 said:


> Anyone try this mod with a WA 1111? Is it possible or am I asking for trouble? How bout a 1111 in a Mag Charger?


It is possible but for long run, excessive heat may ruin Stinger switch assembly.
This problem in M*g charger already solved with ceramic slug.


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## lebox97 (Aug 6, 2006)

UCL and WA1111 (or maybe it's an 1160) =
yup, that's what happened to mine - put light in grab bag - and a couple of days later realized it was dead (light had switched on w/o my knowledge). Switch is now a momentary one (no longer a clickie) 
havn't taken switch apart yet to see if I can get clickie working again :candle: - otherwise new ones are $8-10 I think?



fivemega said:


> It is possible but for long run, excessive heat may ruin Stinger switch assembly....


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## dw51 (Aug 10, 2006)

One note for others attempting this. In a previous post it was mentioned to put the head in the oven at 200C. Don't do like I did and overlook the C. I put mine in at 200F and it must not have expanded enough because it resulted in a lense in a thousand pieces. When I get my new lenses (yes, this time I was smart and ordered an extra) I'll try again at the proper temp.


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## Lips (Aug 10, 2006)

My lense fell out a couple of times on this mod so I mixed a little quick-set glue and carefully glued the lens in... No problems ever since...


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## vacuum3d (Aug 10, 2006)

Having read thru this thread, I ordered two lenses and proceeded to the mod. It actually turned out to be simpler than I had anticipated. I cut a round piece of card board and pushed the head and glass against the card board laying on the carpet. Probably took about five minutes to complete.

I had tried 1160. It's not much of an improvement over the stock lamp. I then tried 1183. Nice and bright. White beam too. Runtime is only about 15 minutes with the stock battery stick. I have noticed that the spring that contacts with the switch assembly had begun to melt the plastic a little. I have also noticed that the reflect had a little bit of fogging. I think heat is going to be a problem with the US head.

Overall, the mod is fairly simple. I think the UCL is worth changing even for people who don't want to use Hotwire bulbs. 

Thanks for the mod instructions Flash_Gordon!
ernest


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## lumenjunkie (Apr 6, 2011)

*WARNING!* 

*This mod does NOT always work. I tried this mod precisely as described. I ordered 4 of the 55MM UCL's from flashlightlens.com . I wound up with a ruined Ultrastinger head, as I has removed the cheap plastic lens SL puts in their lights. *

*I would recommend NOT trying this, as it does not work all the time, and it costs about $35 to replace an US head. It is not quick, not easy, and you will damage your light. 

Further, Flashlightlens.com will not refund your money on a damaged UCL lens. They say they do not support this mod. (although he did promise to refund the 3 undamaged lens) *

*This little mod COST ME about $40.00!!! *

_Really very frustrated over this entire deal!_


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## Billm67 (May 6, 2011)

I would like to try this, but I don't want to destory my US.....I really like mine.


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