# Tint comparison K2 tffc UWOE vs TVOD and others - modded 120P



## Moddoo (Mar 25, 2009)

The 120p was nice stock, but the K2 makes a nice noticeable difference.
The stock driver was not changed.
I tried a K2 UWOE from TNC and then a K2 TVOD from Photonfanatic.

Honestly, the tints look extremely close in the photos, as well as in person.

The lights in photo left to right:

E2E w/stock incan

6p with M30W

Romisen RC-C3 Q5 from Shiningbeam (slight green tint)

Novatac 120p with K2 UWOE first, then K2 TVOD (both looked very similar, very slight purple tint)

E1E with 7882 driver, custom reflector, and Q5 WC (slight blue tint)

UWOE






TVOD


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## Sgt. LED (Mar 26, 2009)

I like the look of the emitter and the higher heat tolerance.

Funny how the different tints look nearly the same. I mean in person because on my computer I can't tell a bit of difference!


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## Pontiaker (Mar 26, 2009)

The Novatac looks awesome compared to the other LED's if you ask me, nice and bright white.


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## toby_pra (Mar 26, 2009)

does the output raise up after the mod?

the beam is pretty nice!!!:twothumbs


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## Nake (Mar 26, 2009)

I'd also like to know if the K2 in the Novatac is brighter than the Seoul. Also can you see a difference in brightness between the 2 K2s.


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## Moddoo (Mar 26, 2009)

Moddoo said:


> The 120p was nice stock, but the K2 makes a nice noticeable difference.



Yes, the light is definitely brighter with the new K2 tffc.

Hard to tell if 1 k2 was brighter than the other.

The beam is really nice on these lights. 

The tint is pretty nice and white, but there is a very slight purple hue to it.

I tried to get a comparison with the stock emitter, but those pics didn't turn out very well.


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## Nake (Mar 26, 2009)

How did you knock the corners of the K2 off, so it would fit in the emitter well of the Novatac?


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## Moddoo (Mar 26, 2009)

Nake said:


> How did you knock the corners of the K2 off, so it would fit in the emitter well of the Novatac?



sharp pocket knife, steady hands, and a little patience.
Really not too tough of a job.

I was going to mill the pocket out a bit, but then it wouldn't be anodized in that area.
I need to get a little homebrew ano setup going...


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## Nake (Apr 5, 2009)

Well I thought I'd give it a try. Install went smoothly. I touched the corners of the emitter to a grinding wheel, then finished up with a file. 

Here's what is amazing. My Novatac with a Seoul showed about 8600 overall lux in my lightbox. With the K2 it shows 16,400. :wow: At first I thought there was a short, but couldn't find anything, and with the annoed heat sink seemed unlikely. 

With a protected cell the brightness would drop down to about 10K lux in about 30 sec. With an IMR it held for 3 min before I shut it off. It's making me nervous running at that brightness.

With a primary it showed 12500 lux and stayed there for 3 min. till I shut down.

I don't know what's going on, maybe Fred sold me a K2 with a Vf of 1.0 . I have a K2 with a Vf of 3.50-3.75, I think I'll try that and see what happens.


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## tebore (Apr 6, 2009)

Nake said:


> Well I thought I'd give it a try. Install went smoothly. I touched the corners of the emitter to a grinding wheel, then finished up with a file.
> 
> Here's what is amazing. My Novatac with a Seoul showed about 8600 overall lux in my lightbox. With the K2 it shows 16,400. :wow: At first I thought there was a short, but couldn't find anything, and with the annoed heat sink seemed unlikely.
> 
> ...



I have to try a K2 now after reading your post.

There's a possibility that your lux reading is do how the emitter and the reflector work together. The K2's die looks smaller than the P4. I also hear that the K2 on average has lower Vfs than other LEDs.


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## Moddoo (Apr 6, 2009)

tebore said:


> I have to try a K2 now after reading your post.
> 
> There's a possibility that your lux reading is do how the emitter and the reflector work together. The K2's die looks smaller than the P4. I also hear that the K2 on average has lower Vfs than other LEDs.



IMO the focus of the beam is a bit sharper with the K2.

But there is no doubt that the K2 is brighter.
funny how the lowest low used to be very dim compared to the K2 mod.


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## Cuso (Apr 6, 2009)

Nake said:


> Well I thought I'd give it a try. Install went smoothly. I touched the corners of the emitter to a grinding wheel, then finished up with a file.
> 
> Here's what is amazing. My Novatac with a Seoul showed about 8600 overall lux in my lightbox. With the K2 it shows 16,400. :wow: At first I thought there was a short, but couldn't find anything, and with the annoed heat sink seemed unlikely.
> 
> ...


Was that a factory light?? Whats your serial # if you don't mind me asking?? If its an early release light , I would not be surprised...


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## Nake (Apr 7, 2009)

Cuso said:


> Was that a factory light?? Whats your serial # if you don't mind me asking?? If its an early release light , I would not be surprised...


 
Yes, it is a factory light. It had been upgraded to a Photonfanatic Seoul when I first got it, that raised the brightness some. My low setting still goes down to .13lm with the K2. The serial number is 10477.


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## Nake (Apr 7, 2009)

I just went and did a ceiling bounce test against my black 120P, which is the same brightness as my pewter one was. The black gave a number of 193, while the pewter K2 one showed 379 with an RCR123 and 274 with a CR123.

Edit; added number using a CR123


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## Brizzler (Apr 17, 2009)

Couple of questions to those who have done the mod:

Any artifacts in the beam? You didn't tweak the reflector in any way or have to shim the LED, did you? Any reliability issues?

Thanks! Looks like I may have to try this to boost the output of my 85P and deal with the tint I don't really care for!


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## Nake (Apr 17, 2009)

Brizzler said:


> Couple of questions to those who have done the mod:
> 
> Any artifacts in the beam? You didn't tweak the reflector in any way or have to shim the LED, did you? Any reliability issues?
> 
> Thanks! Looks like I may have to try this to boost the output of my 85P and deal with the tint I don't really care for!


 
There are a few light wisps coming off of the hotspot. I would compare them to solar flares.

I did no mods to the reflector or shimming of the LED with mine.

No reliability issues with mine, but I don't use it much, mostly to play around with. I have been using only a CR123.


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## Moddoo (Apr 17, 2009)

Brizzler said:


> Couple of questions to those who have done the mod:
> 
> Any artifacts in the beam? You didn't tweak the reflector in any way or have to shim the LED, did you? Any reliability issues?
> 
> Thanks! Looks like I may have to try this to boost the output of my 85P and deal with the tint I don't really care for!



The beam looks at least as good IMO as before, slightly crisper.

It really is a direct replacement, except for the trimming of the K2 casing.
I believe that the K2 is slightly taller than the old emitter. it is flush with the bottom of the reflector, where the old one had a slight gap between the 2.
I haven't measured the 2 against each other yet.

Mine is my EDC right now, has been for a month now. I have run it on high for extended periods, and use it daily, though, not a ton. It's still working great.

I have mostly used a CR123 also, RCR just a bit. I don't like it when my lights just go dark without warning though.

Thanks for the lux testing, very nice results.


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## Brizzler (Apr 27, 2009)

So my LED from TNC has arrived. I have a quick question though before I embark on this mod: 

The K2 TFFC has four equal-size 'legs' - apparently the notch in the casing marks the cathode pair of connectors - but do I have to connect both 'legs' on each side or do I just pick a 'leg' and forget about/remove the other one? :thinking:

Thanks!


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## HarryN (Apr 27, 2009)

Brizzler said:


> So my LED from TNC has arrived. I have a quick question though before I embark on this mod:
> 
> The K2 TFFC has four equal-size 'legs' - apparently the notch in the casing marks the cathode pair of connectors - but do I have to connect both 'legs' on each side or do I just pick a 'leg' and forget about/remove the other one? :thinking:
> 
> Thanks!



You can just trim off the unused legs (or ignore them)- they are not connected. Obviously, PL has a plan for them in the future or they wouldn't be there.


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## tebore (Apr 27, 2009)

HarryN said:


> You can just trim off the unused legs (or ignore them)- they are not connected. Obviously, PL has a plan for them in the future or they wouldn't be there.



Apparently you can custom order it to be connected. But as far as I can tell from the spec sheets it's just to help the LED to get a good mount, incase you're not reflowing.


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## Brizzler (Jul 16, 2009)

Well, I finally got around to trying this mod. All went just about ok until the very end - turning the light on. Nothing. No response whatsoever. :mecry:

Any suggestions as to what I should check before I send the light off to one of CPF's great modders to save my light from a future as nothing more than a paperweight??? The LED polarity is correct, the LED still worked after cutting off the corners...I'm out of ideas as to what might be the cause.

Why oh why did I feel the need to tinker with a perfectly functional light?!?


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## tebore (Jul 16, 2009)

Brizzler said:


> Well, I finally got around to trying this mod. All went just about ok until the very end - turning the light on. Nothing. No response whatsoever. :mecry:
> 
> Any suggestions as to what I should check before I send the light off to one of CPF's great modders to save my light from a future as nothing more than a paperweight??? The LED polarity is correct, the LED still worked after cutting off the corners...I'm out of ideas as to what might be the cause.
> 
> Why oh why did I feel the need to tinker with a perfectly functional light?!?



I know you said the polarity is correct but just for the heck of it did you try turning the LED around?


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## tx101 (Jul 16, 2009)

Brizzler said:


> Well, I finally got around to trying this mod. All went just about ok until the very end - turning the light on. Nothing. No response whatsoever. :mecry:
> 
> Any suggestions as to what I should check before I send the light off to one of CPF's great modders to save my light from a future as nothing more than a paperweight??? The LED polarity is correct, the LED still worked after cutting off the corners...I'm out of ideas as to what might be the cause.
> 
> Why oh why did I feel the need to tinker with a perfectly functional light?!?



PM sent


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## Brizzler (Jul 18, 2009)

Thanks for the PMs tx101 and Nailbender! 
I'll have another tinker with the light tonight, and if it still doesn't work after that it'll be time to get in touch with one of the forum's expert modders...


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## tx101 (Jul 18, 2009)

Brizzler said:


> Thanks for the PMs tx101 and Nailbender!
> I'll have another tinker with the light tonight, and if it still doesn't work after that it'll be time to get in touch with one of the forum's expert modders...




:thumbsup:

This mod is well worth the effort
I'm very happy with my one now .... kinda, been given a new lease of life


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## Brizzler (Jul 20, 2009)

Well, had another tinker with the light, taking the view that I didn't have much to lose since the light was not functional anyway and IT NOW WORKS!!!  

I hate to admit this , especially as I was convinced I got it right first time, but it looks like I got the LED polarity wrong... It is not the prettiest mod internally, following the soldering, de-soldering and re-soldering but it works! And I am very pleased with the outcome! Output has definitely increased, throw is significantly better and the tint much more pleasing to my eyes - I really like the K2TFFC emitters generally and this is no exception. Awesome! :thumbsup:

Thanks for all who helped me through this and thanks of course to Moddoo for giving me the original idea. :wave:


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## nanotech17 (Jul 20, 2009)

i'm still waiting for my K2's from Fred to arrive


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## tx101 (Jul 21, 2009)

nanotech17 said:


> i'm still waiting for my K2's from Fred to arrive


 
Are you based in Europe?
if you are there are a couple of German suppliers who have K2 TFFCs


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## nanotech17 (Jul 21, 2009)

tx101 said:


> Are you based in Europe?
> if you are there are a couple of German suppliers who have K2 TFFCs



im located in South East Asia (Malaysia)


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## nanotech17 (Jul 27, 2009)

got mine today,it's definitely warmer vs my K2 TFFC TWOF 1.2A
Beamshots - TWOF on the left TVOD on the right.
Novatac 120T with AW 18650.
Dereelight host and 1.2A driver with AW 18650.












EV -2





thanks to OP for this great idea :thumbsup:


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## brighterisbetter (Aug 6, 2009)

Nake said:


> How did you knock the corners of the K2 off, so it would fit in the emitter well of the Novatac?





Moddoo said:


> sharp pocket knife, steady hands, and a little patience.


I'm about to attempt this modification tonight after work as I received my K2 today from PF. Does anyone happen to have a picture of what the trimmed K2 should look like when it's ready to install/solder/etc? I'm looking at the emitter here in front of me and I'm not sure how much or what parts to start cutting on. Then again, I haven't disassembled my Novatac yet either to see if there's an emitter well that the SSC P4 rests inside of.


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## tebore (Aug 6, 2009)

brighterisbetter said:


> I'm about to attempt this modification tonight after work as I received my K2 today from PF. Does anyone happen to have a picture of what the trimmed K2 should look like when it's ready to install/solder/etc? I'm looking at the emitter here in front of me and I'm not sure how much or what parts to start cutting on. Then again, I haven't disassembled my Novatac yet either to see if there's an emitter well that the SSC P4 rests inside of.



The heatsink/electronics module will look something like this:
http://img517.imageshack.us/my.php?image=moduleoutandcleanedca0.jpg

I'll try to find the pic I took of a K2 I cut. I suggest finding the legs that power the LED then trimming the extra ones then start trimming. It makes it easier.
http://img108.imageshack.us/my.php?image=removemodulemf5.jpg


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## gunga (Aug 6, 2009)

I've grown to really like neutral tints. Are there any neutral K2s to be found? 

I have some high CRI seouls (an S2 from Mouser) in my Novatac, but would like more output.

I do have the T1 seoul from Teckno Cowboys group buy too. Just have to swap that one in later...


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## tebore (Aug 6, 2009)

gunga said:


> I've grown to really like neutral tints. Are there any neutral K2s to be found?
> 
> I have some high CRI seouls (an S2 from Mouser) in my Novatac, but would like more output.
> 
> I do have the T1 seoul from Teckno Cowboys group buy too. Just have to swap that one in later...



Future has them. They're not that expensive either. Its $7 flat rate shipping so if you order enough it's about $6 a piece. It's the K2 180bin. The vf's are really low.


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## gunga (Aug 6, 2009)

Oh, have you tried them? How's the tint? ANy reason you haven't tried em?

:naughty:

THis may be a better option than the high CRI seouls perhaps? Especially for a lux 1 swap?


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## tebore (Aug 6, 2009)

I tried it. The I just didn't like the tint. I really like the TVOD so I stuck with it.


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## tx101 (Aug 6, 2009)

brighterisbetter said:


> I'm about to attempt this modification tonight after work as I received my K2 today from PF. Does anyone happen to have a picture of what the trimmed K2 should look like when it's ready to install/solder/etc? I'm looking at the emitter here in front of me and I'm not sure how much or what parts to start cutting on. Then again, I haven't disassembled my Novatac yet either to see if there's an emitter well that the SSC P4 rests inside of.




Bruce,

Once you remove the Novatac LE, you will see that the SSC P4 sits in a pocket on the heatsink. This pocket is round, so all you do is remove enough material around the K2 casing so that it fits into the round pocket.
Remove a little at a time (start with the corners first) and test fit the K2
with the reflector in place, just so you get the K2 centered as well.

Check your PM


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## gunga (Aug 6, 2009)

tebore said:


> I tried it. The I just didn't like the tint. I really like the TVOD so I stuck with it.


 
Hmm, that's too bad. Can you describe how the tint was? How does it compare to Cree Q3 5A or high CRI seoul?

Perhaps I can purchase some off you?


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## kz1000s1 (Aug 21, 2009)

I just got a couple of TVOD's from PF and put one in my Novatac 85P. It made a big difference! The throw is now similar to my Quark AA on alkaline and is now brighter than the Quark. Before the Quark was noticaably brighter though the Novatac still isn't close to the Quark with a 14500. Tint is nice. Just a little warm. 

How is the beam of the TFFC with a smooth reflector?
I want to put the other emitter in something that pushes it harder. Can you direct drive it with an RCR123 or 18650?


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## Nake (Aug 21, 2009)

kz1000s1 said:


> How is the beam of the TFFC with a smooth reflector?
> I want to put the other emitter in something that pushes it harder. Can you direct drive it with an RCR123 or 18650?


 
I tried one with a smooth reflector and didn't like the beam, a lot of artifacts. I have one in a JIL DD that is direct driven with an RCR2. Very bright, but of course with the JIL it can't be left on long, virtually no heatsinking, the emitter board appears to a composite material.


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## Cuso (Aug 21, 2009)

kz1000s1 said:


> How is the beam of the TFFC with a smooth reflector?
> I want to put the other emitter in something that pushes it harder. Can you direct drive it with an RCR123 or 18650?


Its has some artifacts in the outer edges , but its not that bad... I had one mounted on a Peak Rainier with the IMS 20. I currently have a KL1 on direct drive with an AW RCR123 and it rocks.


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## kz1000s1 (Aug 21, 2009)

Thanks for your answers! 

What is the amperage draw for that KL1?


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## Nitroz (Aug 22, 2009)

kz1000s1 said:


> I just got a couple of TVOD's from PF and put one in my Novatac 85P. It made a big difference! The throw is now similar to my Quark AA on alkaline and is now brighter than the Quark. Before the Quark was noticaably brighter though the Novatac still isn't close to the Quark with a 14500. Tint is nice. Just a little warm.
> 
> How is the beam of the TFFC with a smooth reflector?
> I want to put the other emitter in something that pushes it harder. Can you direct drive it with an RCR123 or 18650?



I have a cut down 2c Mag with a K2 Tffc. The K2 reminds me of the old Lux III in the mag reflector. It has a tight focus and is very bright running from a flupic on burst.


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## tx101 (Aug 22, 2009)

I have a Milky KL3 with a K2 TFFC @ 1.3A and
a Mag 1C K2 TFFC @ 1.5A, both different Bins
but have the same tight focus as Nitroz mentions


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## Cuso (Aug 22, 2009)

kz1000s1 said:


> Thanks for your answers!
> 
> What is the amperage draw for that KL1?


Lemme see if i can find the multimeter and ill get back to you on that one...


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## brighterisbetter (Aug 29, 2009)

Mine is operational again after I eff'ed up my solder job. I managed to completely destroy a K2 after first mixing up the polarity. Then when corrected my soldering was so poor that I melted the legs off. So I went to reinstall the stock P4 but I was still dissatisfied. Sent the whole light off to darkzero for a 'fix'.

*Before*






*After*


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## kz1000s1 (Aug 29, 2009)

brighterisbetter said:


> Mine is operational again after I eff'ed up my solder job. I managed to completely destroy a K2 after first mixing up the polarity. Then when corrected my soldering was so poor that I melted the legs off. So I went to reinstall the stock P4 but I was still dissatisfied. Sent the whole light off to darkzero for a 'fix'.
> 
> Before you take out the P4, you identify the negative side by the hole in one leg. Then mark the heatsink as shown in your photos. Next, I mark the negative side of the K2 with a scratch above the negative legs because when you do the corner trimming, you'll be removing the corner cutoff that identifies the polarity.
> 
> So how do you like it now with the K2? Was it a 120 or 85?


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## tx101 (Aug 30, 2009)

brighterisbetter said:


> Mine is operational again after I eff'ed up my solder job. I managed to completely destroy a K2 after first mixing up the polarity. Then when corrected my soldering was so poor that I melted the legs off. So I went to reinstall the stock P4 but I was still dissatisfied. Sent the whole light off to darkzero for a 'fix'.
> 
> *Before*




Your "_*Before"*_ photo looks exactly like my Novatac 
The strange thing is, that myself as well as another member
did the exact samething and reversed the polarity, but both
our K2s survived :thinking:

What do you think of the beam, then Bruce ?


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## brighterisbetter (Aug 30, 2009)

kz1000s1 said:


> Before you take out the P4, you identify the negative side by the hole in one leg. Then mark the heatsink as shown in your photos. Next, I mark the negative side of the K2 with a scratch above the negative legs because when you do the corner trimming, you'll be removing the corner cutoff that identifies the polarity.


That's quite helpful so thanks for sharing 


tx101 said:


> What do you think of the beam, then Bruce ?


The 120T (easter-egg'd to 120P) is still in transit en route to me but I wanted to share the pics of the 'fix' anyway because I was excited it's finished. I'll be sure to share feedback once it's back in my hands.


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## Nake (Aug 30, 2009)

That "before pic" looks like my first solder mod. I used 3/32" dia. solder and a heat gun that turned cherry red about 5 sec after pulling the trigger.


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## Pöbel (Aug 31, 2009)

so as the driver is the same the runtimes should not be affected right?


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## kz1000s1 (Aug 31, 2009)

Pöbel said:


> so as the driver is the same the runtimes should not be affected right?



That should be correct. At each level it would be the same before and after. And with a higher output now, you can use a lower level for more runtime with the same brightness as before.


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## brighterisbetter (Sep 2, 2009)

Got the light back from darkzero today and I love it! Nothing new to say except just echoing of the comments thus far from satisfied owners. :twothumbs


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## kz1000s1 (Sep 2, 2009)

brighterisbetter said:


> Got the light back from darkzero today and I love it! Nothing new to say except just echoing of the comments thus far from satisfied owners. :twothumbs



So we can assume your 120 also had significant increase in brightness like the 85's did? :twothumbs


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## brighterisbetter (Sep 2, 2009)

kz1000s1 said:


> So we can assume your 120 also had significant increase in brightness like the 85's did? :twothumbs



I wish I had a before/after shot for ya. I don't currently have a 120P in stock configuration to test against. But I'll try to take a pic later on though I've never been good at that sort of thing. The hotspot is just about perfect to me, and the tint is more neutral overall. Can't wait till it gets dark.


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## gunga (Sep 2, 2009)

Can you comment on the tint vs say Cree 5A, or something similar?

How does it render colour etc?
I'm considering upgrading the high CRI seoul in my Nova, but may go K2 instead for more output and punch...


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## brighterisbetter (Sep 2, 2009)

Hi gunga, unfortunately I don't have anything with a 5A in it. But I did do a :58 long video comparing this Novatac to an Inova T4-MP (which also has a K2) advertised at 175 lumens. Problem I'm having is that the video, while only being 58 seconds, is almost 60 megabytes and too big for me to upload to photobucket. Anyone have a suggestion for a freeware video shrinker so that I can share this with you guys? It's nothing special believe me, but it does illustrate how nice I think the new beam profile is.


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## darkzero (Sep 2, 2009)

gunga said:


> Can you comment on the tint vs say Cree 5A, or something similar?


 
I would say if you are a big fan on neutral white & warm white class tints than this may not be for you. If you are a fan of the warmer tinted cool class tints than this is very nice! I personally am not a fan of Neutral white or warm white. The Seoul SVO tint is one of my favorites & the VO tint of the K2 is just so much nicer. Makes the U2SVOH in my PD-S & even this P7 DSVNI Novatac I have here look green! Well I'll take care of that very soon. 

But it's a different type of vanilla tint. Tint is more uniform throughout the beam which is what I missed about Luxeons & hate about Seouls. Compared to certain tints it can almost have a rose or purple tint to it. I'm not good at explaining tints.


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## brighterisbetter (Sep 2, 2009)

darkzero said:


> If you are a fan of the warmer tinted cool class tints than this is very nice!
> 
> Tint is more uniform throughout the beam which is what I missed about Luxeons & hate about Seouls.



Very well said, I agree 100% :thumbsup:


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## bluecrow76 (Sep 22, 2009)

I just found my next mod project! I have a leftover 85P module that is without body right now. I did a K2-TFFC mod on a LumaPower DX1 and loved it. Looking forward to this...


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## Pöbel (Sep 25, 2009)

after waiting a while my k2's finally arrived and i did the swap. WOW :twothumbs. So much more punch than before and a great tint. love it!


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## darkzero (Sep 28, 2009)

In love with my PD-S all over again! Or should I say "PD-K". :naughty:

TVOD & UCL







This PD-S is my main EDC, had a "select" U2SVOH although I dislike U2 bins. Since Bruce had me put a TVOD in his Novatac I was surprised how much brighter it was than my 120P with a U2SVOH not to mention I like the tint better. So I stuffed one in my 120P & it became my EDC for a while. Then my PD-S got neglected so I had to change that. Now it's brighter, like the tint better, love the beam as I'm still a fan of Luxeon beams, & it throws more too. 


Beamshots at 10ft.

Both my "PD-K" & 120P have TVODs but the 120P has a slight purple hue to it. 
Left: "PD-K" @ 745ma, Right: Novatac 120P on max (current unknown)






Left: HDS B60 UWOE on max, Right: Novatac 120P TVOD on max
(Both using stock reflectors, smooth in the HDS, textured in the Novatac)






UWOE is brighter but I still prefer the TVOD. I do like the UWOE too though.


EDIT: Just read the original post again. I have far different results. I've used a number of TVODs & a few UWOEs & the tints are very different as you can see above. The one in my 120P has been the coolest of all the TVODs I've used but still warmer than WO.


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## brighterisbetter (Oct 15, 2009)

Bought an older optic style KL1 from Marketplace and peformed the SuperNOVA mod seen here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/175321

Only mine has the K2 TFFC instead of an SSC P4. I like it very much. And the pictures do it no justice whatsoever. I think it's one of the coolest beams I've even seen....ever. So much better looking in person cause my iPhone camera is crap.


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## tx101 (Oct 17, 2009)

Ah-ha !!!
I can figure out why you are looking for glow paint 
You want to put it around the emitter ?

Back on topic .......
We should call that beamshot, "the gates of hell"


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## brighterisbetter (Oct 17, 2009)

tx101 said:


> We should call that beamshot, "the gates of hell"


:devil:

Actually, I'm trying to find a use for the KL1 that I salvaged the optic from. As of now all it's comprised of it an empty shell with a Lux emitter at the base. I figure I can superglue an old 'beater' lens to the inside, fill it as much as possible with glow paint/epoxy (but don't cover the emitter), and turn it into a neat little glow light of some kind for halloween. When it goes dim, click it on for a few seconds to recharge and there you go. I know, it's kind of silly. But better than having it sit around unused.


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## Moddoo (Oct 17, 2009)

Happy to see this thread still growing with nicely done mods.

I still carry my 120p daily.


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## aceo07 (Nov 6, 2009)

You guys are evil...  I only came back to CPF to see how things had progressed... and now this..

I ordered 2 K2 TFFC leds earlier in the week. Received them today and will probably install one tomorrow. Going to upgrade my HDS U60 (modded to SSC P4) again. Also need to pick up a solder kit.

Wish me luck, my unskilled hands are going to need it.


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## Nake (Nov 6, 2009)

aceo07 said:


> You guys are evil...  I only came back to CPF to see how things had progressed... and now this..
> 
> I ordered 2 K2 TFFC leds earlier in the week. Received them today and will probably install one tomorrow. Going to upgrade my HDS U60 (modded to SSC P4) again. Also need to pick up a solder kit.
> 
> Wish me luck, my unskilled hands are going to need it.


 
I tried a K2 with a smooth reflector and thought the beam was crappy, a lot of artifacts. Just a warning if you like a smooth beam.


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## aceo07 (Nov 7, 2009)

I just put the K2 into my HDS. The focus is much tighter than the SSC P4. The hotspot is off center since I did trimmed the K2 without checking it in the slot of the heatsink.

The beam isn't as bad as I thought it would be. There are a couple of noticeable artifacts, but I think it's 2 bits of black debris that's on the dome of K2. I will clean it off or try to later. When I was soldering, I accidentally tapped the dome with the tap of the iron.. oops.. However, the dome seems strong and it's fine.

The tint is faint yellowish white. Maybe like a sunset tint, but not strong orange/yellow. I can't really describe it. It's not like my P4 XO which seems white faint bluish. One max, it's bright white with faint faint yellow. It'd probably be nice if I was out camping.

The output seems to be more. I wish I had the patience to do a wall bounce test with my camera to approx total ouput. I did at least take beam pictures and after. The hotspot seems to be the same size, though on the SSC P4 the hotspot smoothly spreads outward a bit whereas on the K2 the hotspot almost suddenly stops. In AV mode, the shutter speed was 1 stop faster for the K2.

The K2 seems to be better seated in the heatsink than when I put in the SSC P4. The P4 used to turn noticeable blue tint after a minute on max.

The only regret is that I didn't plan better to center the LED.

update: I cleaned up the dome with some scotch tape. It managed to pull off some tiny metal bits. The beams seems a little improved, though there still remain a small dark spot in the center of the hotspot. I assume this is due to focus, which I'm not going to change.


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