# Nitecore P25 (XM-L U2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO +



## selfbuilt (Jan 18, 2013)

*Warning: pic heavy as usual. *











By my count, this is the sixth review I've done of a 1x18650 light that includes a built-in charging feature (or seventh, if you count one 1x26650).  I've been glad to see the maturing of this approach over time – the P25 has one of the best implementations yet (more on that in a moment).

Although having a lot in common with the MH25 and EC25 by Nitecore, this first "Precise" series P25 light also has a few new adaptations – many of which seem to be designed for the "tactical" crowd. Let's go through them all in detail, and see how the P25 "Smilodon" compares to the competition.

Oh, and for those of you who were wondering - the Smilodon is an extinct genus of sabre-tooth cat. Something that has been gone for over 10,000 years wouldn't be my first choice for a model name … but I guess they figured it sounded fierce. 

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
_Note: as always, these are only what the manufacturer reports. To see my actual testing results, scroll down the review._


Premium CREE XM-L U2 LED
Output: Turbo: 860 lumens, High: 550 lumens, Mid: 180 lumens, Low: 50 lumens, Lower: 2 lumens
1x18650 Runtimes: Turbo: 1hr 45min, High: 2hr, Mid: 7hr, Low: 30hr, Lower: 325hr
2xCR123A Runtimes: Turbo: 1hr 15min, High: 1hr 30min, Mid: 5hr 15min, Low: 21hr, Lower: 200hr
 Supports 1x18650 (3.7V) Li-ion battery, 2xRCR123A (3.7V) Li-ion batteries, and 2xCR123A (3V) batteries. WARNING: USB cable/charging function is for use with rechargeable 18650 Li-ion only. Do not attempt to charge non-rechargeable CR123A or other types of rechargeable cells such as RCR123A.
Integrated “Precision Digital Optics Technology” provides extreme reflector performance
Boasts a peak beam intensity of 20,000cd and a throw distance of up to 283 meters
High efficiency circuit board provides up to 325 hours runtime
Integrated dual Picatinny connectors / rails provide a huge variety of mounting options
Innovative single button two-stage switch offers a user-friendly interface (patented)
Intelligent charging circuit with voltage detection charges safely and rapidly
Integrated micro USB charging port is water, dust and impact resistant
Eight rapidly switchable brightness levels to select from
Integrated power indicator light displays remaining battery power (patented)
Power indicator’s secondary function displays battery voltage (accurate to 0.1V)
Intelligent charging circuit with voltage detection charges rapidly and safely
Intelligent memory function stores preferred brightness setting
Integrated spring-loaded impact absorption mechanism featuring reverse polarity protection (patented)
Stainless steel titanium-plated two-way clip
Stainless steel retaining ring protects the core components from damage
Toughened ultra-clear mineral glass with anti-reflective coating
Constructed from aero grade aluminum alloy
Sturdy HAIII military grade hard-anodized
Waterproof in accordance with IPX-8 (two meters submersible)
Impact resistant to 1.5 meters
Tail stand capability
Dimensions: Length: 160mm, Head diameter: 40 mm, Tube diameter: 25.4mm
Weight: 171g (without battery)
Accessories: Quality holster, clip, tactical ring, lanyard, USB cable, spare tail cap and spare O-ring
MSRP: ~$100
Mt P25 is a review sample, and didn't come in retail packaging. Form the spec description, it sounds pretty similar to what I saw on the MH25 – with the exception of Nitecore 18650 Li-ion battery, which seems to be lacking here. Otherwise, expect to see the typical extra o-rings and boot cover, removable pocket clip, grip ring, basic belt holster with Velcro closing flap, manual and warranty card, and standard USB charging cable (with a micro USB connector for the light).













From left to right: AW protected 18650; Nitecore MH25, P25; Klarus RS11; Crelant 7G6CS; Rofis TR31C; Fenix TK15.

All dimensions are given with no batteries installed:

*Nitecore P25*: Weight: 171.3g, Length: 160mm, Width (bezel): 40.0m
*Nitecore MH25*: Weight: 145.4g, Length: 160mm, Width (bezel): 40.0m
*Eagletac D25LC2*: Weight: 50.0g, Length: 116.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.5mm
*Klarus RS11*: Weight 158.0g, Length: 160mm, Width (bezel) 34.9mm
*Klarus XT11*: Weight 133.0g, Length: 148.8, Width (bezel) 35.0mm
*Rofis TR31C*: Weight: 180.7g, Length: 153.0mm, Width (bezel): 39.8mm
*Thrunite TN10*: Weight: 154.7g, Length: 145.5mm, Width (bezel): 35.1mm
*Zebralight SC600*: Weight 87.2g, Length: 107.8mm, Width (bezel) 29.7mm

The P25 is the same dimensions overall as the MH25, but heavier. 






























The P25 has a distinctive look, as befits its "tactical" focus. Let's start with the anodizing, which is a departure from the recent Nitecores I've reviewed – shown above is the medium gray "natural" finish of old. I understand however that Nitecore will also be making these available in their standard black as well. Anodizing seems excellent on my sample, with no chips despite all the raised surfaces. Labels are bright white and clear, even for the smallest writing.

The P25 has a lot of grip elements, starting with bands of knurling over the tailcap and body tube (I would describe this knurling as medium aggressiveness). Combined with all the ridge detail, overall grip is good. I understand a grip ring and small pocket clip will also be included with shipping samples, which would enhance grip further.

Those extra ridges below the head are actually standard Picatinny weapon mounts. This is not an area of expertise of mine, so I will leave it to others to discuss how practical or useful these are for that purpose. But they should also serve well as additional cooling fins for the light.

Also in keeping with its "tactical" focus, the P25 features both head and tail springs (i.e., to be able to handle weapon recoil without momentary breaking of battery contact). Nitecore has mounted a physical reverse-polarity ring on the positive contact spring in the head, so only small button-top cells will work in this light. :shrug: The battery tube is wide enough to take higher-capacity protected 18650 cells. 

Tail screw threads are standard triangular cut, and seem of good quality. They are also anodized at the tail for lock-out. :thumbsup: Interestingly, there are square-cut (or more precisely, trapezoidal) threads in the head region. 

Tail switch is a forward clicky, with traditional feel. Lights can tailstand, and there raised areas for the lanyard attachment. I found my sample a bit wobbly when tailstanding, but loosening of the tailcap retaining ring may help. 

There is a secondary electronic switch in the head, which looks and feels very similar to the TM15's switch. It is a two-stage (two-pressure) electronic switch, which Nitecore likens to a camera shutter button (i.e., partial press for one effect, full press for another). As with the TM15, there is a blue LED ring surrounding it, which is used to signal the state of the light (i.e., battery charging status, battery power remaining). Scroll down for an explanation of the interface, which is different from the TM15.










The reflector appears identical to the MH25 that I reviewed previously, which is larger than most of the Nitecore line in this size or battery class. As with the MH25, there's a cool white XM-L emitter used here. Reflectors remain smooth finish, and fairly deep – so I would expect equivalent throw to the MH25, if drive levels are unaltered. Note that centering is good on my sample, but I noticed some variability on the MH-series samples I was sent for review. The P25 also has a flat stainless steel bezel ring.

What's most distinctive about the P25 is its charging dock and cover. Like the MH25, the P25 uses a micro-USB connector near the head of the light. Unlike the MH25 – which used a metal cover with o-rings for waterproofness – the P25 uses a more traditional rubber plug. This plug is fairly wide and seemingly well-made (i.e., it fits snuggly in place, as illustrated below). 






















While this plug worked well in my testing, I am a little surprised that the light could pass the fairly stringent ANSI FL-1 submersible testing (which allows for absolutely no water ingress for at least 4 hours immersed at a depth of 2m). Note that I do not do waterproofness testing on my samples. Certainly, with the plug fully inserted, I would not be worried about the light meeting the usual rain-proof/splash-proof level of waterproofness most of us require.

The blue LED indicator around switch tells you the charging status when the charger is attached (see User Interface discussion below for more info).

The charging dock uses a standard micro USB connector. Note that standard USB 2.0 specs limit you to a max 500mA charging current. In my testing of the MH25, it took ~5.5 hours to fully charge a depleted AW 2200mAh 18650 cell. This is similar to other USB-based 18650 charger lights I've tested that claim a CC/CV algorithm. Resting voltage after a charge was a ~4.18V on my sample, which is appropriate.

*User Interface*

User interface is different from the recent MH- or TM-series lights I've reviewed recently.

Turn the light on/off by pressing the tailcap clicky (press for momentary on, click for locked on).

_Constant output modes_

You control the output level of the light by the 2-stage electronic switch near the head. Switch feel is similar to my TM15, but the user interface is different. Partially press-and-release the switch to change constant output modes. Mode sequence is Moonlight > Lo > Med > Hi > Turbo, in repeated sequence. Note that you can jump to Turbo at any point in the sequence by press-and-holding the switch at this partial level.

The light has mode memory, and saves the last setting used – even when you turn the light off-on at the tailcap.

_Standby mode_

There is a Standby mode that can be triggered by a rapid full-press-and-release of the side switch. When is this mode, the light will be drawing a small standby current (see below for measures). Note that all modes are immediately available from the light in this state – simply press the side switch to access the full range of modes.

Note that there is a battery voltage read-out on the P25, but it is "hidden". Despite what the manual says, the light does NOT read out the voltage when changing a cell or entering into Standby. Instead, when you are in Standby, do a quick half-press-release of the switch to have it read out the voltage.

The blue LED indicator will flash briefly once every several seconds when the light is in Standby mode.

To exit Standby mode, fully press and release the switch to return to constant output modes, or fully press and hold to enter blinking modes (Strobe as default), as described below. Alternatively, you can turn the light off/on at the tailcap and it will return to whatever constant output it last memorized.

_Strobe modes_

To access the "hidden" blinking modes, fully-press-and-hold the side switch. Light will enter into tactical strobe mode. You can switch to other blinking modes by a partial-press-and-release, just like you do for the constant output modes. Mode sequence is Strobe > SOS > Beacon, in repeating sequence. Exit the blinking modes by another full-press-and-release of the switch (which will put you into Standby). 

The light has only a partial mode memory for the flashing modes – in the sense that if you turn the light off at the tailcap, when you next turn the light back on you will be in the same blinking mode you left. If you exit out of the blinking modes by going into Standby, when next you enter you will be back at tactical Strobe.

_In-light battery charging_

For charging a 18650 Li-ion battery inside the light, you plug the included micro-USB cable connector into the port at the base of the head of the light (after flipping up the rubber cover). The LED charge indicator will flash very rapidly, indicating the light is NOT charging. Like with my recent MH25, to start a charge cycle you must click the tailcap switch on. The light will not actually come on during charging, but the charge indicator will now show solid blue (for fully charged) or a slow flashing blue (for charging). There is a clear difference in the speed of the slow flash for currently charging, and the rapid flash for not charging. 

The LED will also flash during operation to let you know when your battery voltage is dropping. According to the manual, it will blink once every two seconds once the power levels reach 50%, and blink more rapidly when the batteries are nearly drained.

*Video Overview*

For more information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my new video overview:



As always, videos were recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

*PWM/Strobe*

Nitecore claims that the P25 is current controlled, and I believe that is true. There is no sign of PWM on my sample. 

Strobe:





The P25 has an interesting "tactical" strobe mode – the individual pulses vary in intensity, frequency, and pulse width. The overall frequency is typically between ~9-12 Hz, so this is quite disorienting – I don't imagine anyone could easily steel themselves against this type of highly-variable, high-frequency strobe. :green:

Beacon:





Beacon mode was a brief full-intensity pulse once every ~2.1 secs of so.

*Standby Mode*

Under most conditions, there is no Standby drain on this light (thanks to the physical clicky switch – when clicked off, it's off). There is a Standby mode available through the side switch, though (i.e., for when clicked on at the tailcap, but in Standby on the side switch).

The Standby mode will always be drawing a small current. I measured this current as typically being 596uA - although it would periodically spike every couple of seconds to ~1.04mA for a fraction of a second (corresponding to when the blue LED Standby signal flash occurred). 

If we go with an "average" current estimate of ~750uA, and assuming a 2600mAh 18650 battery, that would give you about 144 days (nearly 5 months) before the battery would be drained. Not unreasonable, given that there's a reoccurring signal warning during this time. But I recommend you use the tailcap switch for full on/off control with no standby.

*Beamshots:*

All lights are on Max output on 1x AW protected 18650 (2200mAh). Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 





























































Beam pattern looks pretty much the same as my MH25 – which isn't surprising, as it looks like the lights use the same reflector.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables.
















Once again, it looks like P25 is driven to exactly the same max levels as the MH25. Note that this is among the highest I've seen for the 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR class. Beam distance measures are also exactly the same, as consistent with manufacturer specs.

One thing – the P25 has a much lower low mode than the MH25 (i.e., closer to a "moonlight" level on the P25).

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*




















On Turbo, the P25 looks initially just like the MH25 on all batteries – except the P25 steps-down in multiple steps, at later time points. Like the rest of the MH-series, the MH25 stepped-down abruptly after 3 mins continuous runtime. In contrast, the P25 starts to drop gradually in output after 4 mins, levelling off at 8 mins. This is slow enough that won't you don't notice it by eye. The resulting level is still higher than the "Hi" mode on the P25.

The light maintains this new slightly-reduced Turbo mode until 20 minutes from start-up, at which point the P25 steps down abruptly to level that just a little below the "Hi" mode. It maintains this level until the batteries are nearly exhausted, at which point it behaves like other well-regulated lights - gradually dropping in output (on 1x18650 or 2xCR123A), or abruptly terminating once the protection circuits are tipped on 2xRCR.

To put that in terms of my estimated lumens, on 1x18650, the P25 starts out at ~780 estimated lumens, or ~760 estimated ANSI FL-1 lumens at 30 secs. By 4 mins, the light is now down to ~720 lumens. Note this is perfectly normal for all 18650 lights – it is a feature of the increased heat and resistance in an 18650 battery, and is NOT due to any sort of step down. Starting at 4 mins, the light now begins a programmed step down gradually over 4 mins to ~620 estimated lumens. It maintains this level stably for another 12 mins, at which point it then abruptly steps down to ~450 estimated lumens. It maintains this level in a regulated fashion for as long as the battery can support it. Note that my lumen estimates above are approximate for my setup, as always.

Nitecore's ANSI FL-1 runtimes specs seem quite accurate for in my testing (note that I use the lower capacity AW 2200mAh cells in my 18650 testing).

*Potential Issues*

On 1x18650, I found the "50% power remaining" LED indicator typically came on within a few seconds on Turbo, even with a fully charged cell. This feature seemed to more accurately gauge power remaining on the lower modes, making me think it was confused by the high current drain on Turbo.

Although the manufacturer claims ANSI FL-1 "Submersible" rating at 2m, this seems surprising given the simple rubber plug cover for the micro-USB port (unless the electronics are potted, which I am not aware of). In any case, the cover worked well in my testing, and I have no doubt that the P25 is splash/dunk-proof to same level as most other lights (assuming the plug is fully tight against the body). 

The light is longer than typical for this class, due to the charging port.

The "memory" feature is a bit complex, as it can depend on whether or not you are turning the light off/on at the clicky switch (in which case it always comes back where you left it), or if going through Standby (in which case, it erases the memory of your blinking mode and always returns to Strobe the next time you access the blinking modes).

You have to remember to click the tail switch on to activate the built-in 18650 charger. The charger terminated at a reasonable voltage on my P25 (~4.18V in my testing), 

*Preliminary Observations*

The P25 is a sophisticated light for this class, with a lot of advanced features. It incorporates some of the build elements of the EC25 (i.e., secondary two-stage electronic switch) with the overall build of the MH25 (i.e., same reflector and max output, similar integrated 18650 charger), and throws in some more "tactical" build and user interface features. :sweat:

Let me start with the in-light 18650 charger. This performs the same as the MH25, which is one of the better implementations I've seen. The problem with a lot of the early lights that attempted this is they tried to connect the charger to the tailcap. This meant the use of a custom battery with both terminals available in the tail (e.g., the ITP R01 and Olight S80), or a more complicated double-wall arrangement (e.g. Klarus RS11). All the above lights also used a custom or 12V DC pin style connector at the light, requiring the use of a specialized cable. The early Nextorch 18650 used a micro-USB connector in the head, but still had a custom cable and custom 18650 battery. The Rofis TR31C and Nitecore MH25 were the first lights I tested allowing the charging of standard 18650 cells. However, only the Nitecore MH25/P25 lights use a standard micro-USB connector, allowing any standard cable to be used. :thumbsup:

The side switch is the other distinctive element – while similar in feel to the TM15, it is combined here with a physical clicky switch in the tailcap. This allows a whole new user interface, which is suitable for both a general audience and the more "tactical" crowd. What "tactical" folks will like is that the light can be set to come on in Max or Strobe by using the memory feature (although some would probably rather not have the memory feature, and require it to always be forced). :shrug: But this is also potentially useful for general users, who may like a fully-functioning memory mode (that still works with the physical clicky switch). Note that the blinking modes are not on the main sequence, and so can be considered as "hidden" generally.

The number of available modes is good – with a very high-output Max and very low-output "moonlight" mode. I also like seeing the beacon mode (we are not all into disorienting strobes).  The side switch feel can take a little getting used to (i.e., is a bit sensitive), but since you control on/off by the forward clicky switch in the tail, there's no real worry about accidental activation.

The P25 fully supports all batteries in this class (i.e., 1x18650, 2xCR123A and 2xRCR). Note that due to high discharge rate on maximum, I do not recommend you run the light for extended periods on Turbo with 2x battery sources. Output on 1x18650 is pretty comparable to 2x sources anyway, and is your best choice for Turbo use.

As with the MH25, the P25 has very good throw for the class. 

The other novel "tactical" build features of the P25 are Picatinny mounts and a recoil-resistant dual-spring design. I can't comment on the usefulness of the mount design, but they do double as cooling fins in this case. The dual-spring setup worked fine, but note that the physical reverse polarity protection means than only small button-top cells can be used.

Performance-wise, the P25 shows good current-controlled efficiency. The runtime pattern on Turbo is fairly unique, with the gradual (and imperceptible) step-down from 4-8 mins into the run, followed by the more abrupt step-down at 20 mins. But the various Turbo output levels are still quite bright for the class, and provide a reasonable compromise between high-output and runtime. Note that you can always click off-on (or simply half-press-and-hold the side switch while on) if you want to restore full initial Turbo output. But I certainly don't recommend this on 2x sources, as the discharge rate is already higher than I would prefer. 

All the reported manufacturer ANSI FL-1 beam, output and runtime specs seem quite accurate in my testing. 

There you have it – it's a fairly advanced light, with a lot features. Hope you found the overview of its performance and features helpful! :wave:

----

P25 provided by Nitecore for review.


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## kj2 (Jan 18, 2013)

Thanks


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## Brera (Jan 18, 2013)

Excellent. My next acquisition. I wasn't too sure about the USB charging before but it looks like it's not gonna be bad at all.


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## Dark Skywalker (Jan 19, 2013)

Thank you for yet another detailed review, selfbuilt!

I have a question regarding the charging current. While USB 2.0 spec does indeed allow 500 mA current draw, there are a number of smartphone / tablet chargers that provide higher current to shorten the recharge times of these devices, over a standard USB port. The iPad 3 / iPhone 4 charger provides up to 2A, recent HTC chargers give 0.8-1.0A, same for Blackberry units etc.

Could you check if recharging time on the Nitecore P25 would be shorter with any of these more powerful power adapters that most of us have lying around?


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## Badbeams3 (Jan 19, 2013)

Any pricing yet on this smile big light?


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## selfbuilt (Jan 19, 2013)

Brera said:


> Excellent. My next acquisition. I wasn't too sure about the USB charging before but it looks like it's not gonna be bad at all.


Yes, it is a good implementation - as long as you remember to click-on at the tailcap to actually start the charge.



Dark Skywalker said:


> I have a question regarding the charging current. While USB 2.0 spec does indeed allow 500 mA current draw, there are a number of smartphone / tablet chargers that provide higher current to shorten the recharge times of these devices, over a standard USB port. The iPad 3 / iPhone 4 charger provides up to 2A, recent HTC chargers give 0.8-1.0A, same for Blackberry units etc.


Li-ion charging is typically a very circuit-controlled affair. A good charger follows the CC/CV algorithm, which Nitecore claims here (and I find believable based on charging time, but have not directly investigated). As such, it is really the flashlight's circuitry that determines charging rate, based on how its been programmed (i.e., it could only charge at a higher rate if it is designed to, with a specialized transformer).

I'd have to let the electronics experts comment on how all everything typically gets implemented, but I too have noticed that some tablet devices have a higher current draw when the USB cable is connected to a special transfomer at the power plug. For example, the iPad can transfer data to a computer through the USB cable, but won't charge. To initiated a charge, you need to plug the USB cable into a special charging transformer (which is different from the simple USB-AC adapter used by the iPhone).

Something similar occurs on the Rofis TR31C - if you charge the 18650 by the included DC-USB cable through the computer, you are limited to 500mA during the CC phase. But if you use their special transformer for the AC, you can double that initial charge rate (shortening the charge time considerably). 

But in those cases, the circuitry of the light/tablet is _designed_ to draw a higher current when connected through an appropriate means. I don't know what would happen if you tired to connected the P25 to a specialized cable that allow a higher current draw - but I would guess that either it wouldn't charge at all, or more likely, simply charge at at programmed 500mA level (i.e., it is the circuit that sets the charge rate, the cable/adpater/transformer simply allows it or not). But I'm happy to defer to the electronic whizzes here to clarify/correct. 



Badbeams3 said:


> Any pricing yet on this smile big light?


The listed prices I've seen so far are ~$97 USD.


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## skeeterbait (Jan 19, 2013)

Is the tail cap switch a complete circuit breaker? Is there any means for the blue indicator ring to flash with the tail cap switch off? Am I correct that there is no means to select the initial power-on lumen level without turning the light on, selecting the level, and then turning the light back off?


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## Badbeams3 (Jan 19, 2013)

Thanks for the quick response Selfbuilt. I`m liking this light. Also interested in the EC25...I like that the blue light stays on when lit...silly I know. I`m also starring way to much at the photo`s of the Zebralight SC52. You wouldn`t happen to know if any good reviewers will be taking a look at either of those lights any time soon would ya? I`m only going to get/pick one...I swear.


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## GordoJones88 (Jan 19, 2013)




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## selfbuilt (Jan 19, 2013)

skeeterbait said:


> Is the tail cap switch a complete circuit breaker? Is there any means for the blue indicator ring to flash with the tail cap switch off? Am I correct that there is no means to select the initial power-on lumen level without turning the light on, selecting the level, and then turning the light back off?


The tail switch is a complete circuit break - there is no possible current when it is switched off. And yes, the light remembers whatever the last mode used was ... so if you don't remember, you'd have to turn it on to see (and potentially change, before turning back off).



Badbeams3 said:


> Thanks for the quick response Selfbuilt. I`m liking this light. Also interested in the EC25...I like that the blue light stays on when lit...silly I know. I`m also starring way to much at the photo`s of the Zebralight SC52. You wouldn`t happen to know if any good reviewers will be taking a look at either of those lights any time soon would ya? I`m only going to get/pick one...I swear.


I will be reviewing the SC52 ... it's next on my list, currently in testing. I have not heard anything about the EC25.


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## Badbeams3 (Jan 20, 2013)

Great, looking forward to it. This p25...not sure if to much energy is put into the center beam for my taste...think I like more flood than...tunnel vision/follow the moving dot. Sure like the features though...


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## selfbuilt (Jan 20, 2013)

Badbeams3 said:


> Great, looking forward to it. This p25...not sure if to much energy is put into the center beam for my taste...think I like more flood than...tunnel vision/follow the moving dot. Sure like the features though...


Yeah, kind of depends on how you would use the light. For relative up-close tasks, I prefer a flooder as well (ideally, with an actual diffuser). But for medium-long range tasks, I like a more focussed thrower (like this light). I'm guessing they went with the latter as better for the "tactical" crowd.

Something I use a lot for walking the dog is my Eagletac G25C2, with the flip-up diffuser. For looking near the ground in front of us, I like the diffused beam - as I don't like the "follow-the-bouncing-ball-effect" of a defined hotspot. But to check out something in the distance, I pop it up and enjoy the excellent throw. Best of both worlds this way.

Something I urge all makers to do is consider a good diffuser. Nothing gives you more flexibility from a single light.


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## PayBack (Feb 12, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Something I urge all makers to do is consider a good diffuser. Nothing gives you more flexibility from a single light.



I agree!

From your review (thanks for this BTW.. and your others, some of which have saved me from buying the wrong light) I intend to get this one... want a single 18650 light with good throw to compliment my SC600 for my Camping and BOB... and my Police ride along if I ever get around to it (want to pull out a "small" light they'll laugh at.. then go WOW! when it's turned on.
Also I like the idea of having a charger build in, in a BOB scenerio as I also have a solar panel with USB out.

Back to diffusers.. if anyone knows one that'll fit this, please share!


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## ledmitter_nli (Feb 12, 2013)

NiteCore needs an OP version. Actually the XT11 could probably match its output with a smooth reflector and 2RCR's.


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## holylight (Feb 16, 2013)

good review as usual. tyvm


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## AmperSand (Feb 16, 2013)

An interesting development to make note of.






C series compatible tail threads!


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## selfbuilt (Feb 18, 2013)

AmperSand said:


> C series compatible tail threads!


Interesting, thanks for sharing.


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## PayBack (Feb 27, 2013)

Also the holster for the Fenix LD40 fits this light perfectly well (maybe a little large)... and you'll know why that's relevant if you just bought a P25.... the damn holster that comes with it is too small!


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## buds224 (Feb 28, 2013)

PayBack said:


> Also the holster for the Fenix LD40 fits this light perfectly well (maybe a little large)... and you'll know why that's relevant if you just bought a P25.... the damn holster that comes with it is too small!



I read on another thread somewhere that some people who purchased the P25 were shipped with the wrong holster. Mine included. I've contacted my vendor to see if they will offer the correct one.

*** http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?355440-Nitecore-P25-Holster&highlight=p25

UPDATE: My vendor is sending me a replacement holster. "Wow, that was easy".


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## holylight (Mar 3, 2013)

Sorry just wondering what cell are u all using since flattop cell cannot be use in p25 ?


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## selfbuilt (Mar 4, 2013)

holylight said:


> Sorry just wondering what cell are u all using since flattop cell cannot be use in p25 ?


There's plenty of small button top cells on the market. In addition to my lower capacity AWs, my Xtar and 4GREER 3100mAh cells both work fine.


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## holylight (Mar 5, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> There's plenty of small button top cells on the market. In addition to my lower capacity AWs, my Xtar and 4GREER 3100mAh cells both work fine.



Tks for the answer! Just wondering cause I m not an eletrical guy, can I use magnet to link up my flattop cell to the positive connection of p25? :laughing:


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## selfbuilt (Mar 5, 2013)

holylight said:


> Tks for the answer! Just wondering cause I m not an eletrical guy, can I use magnet to link up my flattop cell to the positive connection of p25? :laughing:


I would strongly recommend against doing that. While a popular activity with some here (to allow flat-top cells to make contact), you run the very real risk of shorting your battery if the magnet were to slide to the side (and thus connect the negative path of the battery directly to positive terminal). Shorting an 18650 inside a sealed flashlight body is not something you would want to experience!


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## holylight (Mar 6, 2013)

good tks!! guess have to wait for my new button top cells


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## Tac Gunner (Mar 6, 2013)

The only thing I could think of those picatinny rails being used for would be to mount a rail mounted grip to and use the light as a hand held spotlgiht


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## bluemax_1 (Mar 8, 2013)

AmperSand said:


> An interesting development to make note of.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



What exactly is that?


Max


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## AmperSand (Mar 8, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> What exactly is that?
> 
> 
> Max



It's a solarforce remote pressure switch. Commonly used with weapon mounts. Squeeze the pad for momentary on.
Eitherway, I'd assume any c/p series tailcap would work.

Paves the way for a few different tailcap options. 
I always liked how nitecore had an e series compatible head in the way of the nitecore extreme and infilux series. Hardly seems like a co-incidence these tail threads are surefire compatible too..


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## bluemax_1 (Mar 8, 2013)

AmperSand said:


> It's a solarforce remote pressure switch. Commonly used with weapon mounts. Squeeze the pad for momentary on.
> Eitherway, I'd assume any c/p series tailcap would work.
> 
> Paves the way for a few different tailcap options.
> I always liked how nitecore had an e series compatible head in the way of the nitecore extreme and infilux series. Hardly seems like a co-incidence these tail threads are surefire compatible too..


Ah, thanks for the info.


Max


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## buds224 (Mar 10, 2013)

Mine came with a plastic Tactical ring. Can others confirm this? It's not a problem now, but I remember the one on my XT11 broke within a couple weeks of owning. Hopefully the material can hold up to accidental drops, I'm not one to run that test.


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## SeamusORiley (Mar 10, 2013)

Mine came and it is something special.


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## holylight (Mar 16, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> There's plenty of small button top cells on the market. In addition to my lower capacity AWs, my Xtar and 4GREER 3100mAh cells both work fine.








Flattop cell don't work, I got these enerpower+ black 3400mah button head and now I got this beast working.


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## TronPlayer (Mar 16, 2013)

I also have the short-sheeted holster as outlined in another thread but the the thing that really bugs me is that the SMILODON logo doesn't align up with the switch, side, or anything really. Also, my side-switch isn't center at all and cocked to the side a bit. It seems like this is the case with the review pics posted here as well. Compared to my tk22, I'm not really that impressed with the p25. Am I being to picky? But then again, this is an expensive flashlight.


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## holylight (Mar 16, 2013)

TronPlayer said:


> I also have the short-sheeted holster as outlined in another thread but the the thing that really bugs me is that the SMILODON logo doesn't align up with the switch, side, or anything really. Also, my side-switch isn't center at all and cocked to the side a bit. It seems like this is the case with the review pics posted here as well. Compared to my tk22, I'm not really that impressed with the p25. Am I being to picky? But then again, this is an expensive flashlight.



How much you got it for? I got it for $80 plus free shipping....


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## DenBarrettSAR (Mar 17, 2013)

Thats odd. I just got mine and its a rubber/sillicone ring that came with mine.
So far i love the light. its tough, bright, love the camera-type interface + tail cap clickie, and the dual Piccantiny mounts offer alot of options. its now my favourite single-18650 light.


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## AbnInfantry (Mar 17, 2013)

TronPlayer said:


> Compared to my tk22, I'm not really that impressed with the p25. Am I being to picky? But then again, this is an expensive flashlight.



The Nitecore P25 is probably my favorite flashlight so far. I bought two (gray finish) P25s for $62.60 each including postage and consider them bargains; the second one came with an improved holster. If I could make two changes to the P25, it would be to add a crenulated bezel and remove the Picatinny rails (which I doubt one person in a hundred has any use for). I am eagerly awaiting the release of Nitecore's SRT6 and SRT7 models which I suspect I will like even better.


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## SeamusORiley (Mar 17, 2013)

AbnInfantry said:


> The Nitecore P25 is probably my favorite flashlight so far. I bought two (gray finish) P25s for $62.60 each including postage and consider them bargains; the second one came with an improved holster. If I could make two changes to the P25, it would be to add a crenulated bezel and remove the Picatinny rails (which I doubt one person in a hundred has any use for). I am eagerly awaiting the release of Nitecore's SRT6 and SRT7 models which I suspect I will like even better.



I assume at this price it came from overseas....genuine article?


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## AbnInfantry (Mar 17, 2013)

SeamusORiley said:


> I assume at this price it came from overseas....genuine article?



I bought them from a company in Hong Kong which is often mentioned here on CPF. They sell the Nitecore P25 (black or gray) for $65.89, which comes to $62.60 after a 5% CPF discount. I bought one of my three Nitecore EA4s from them for only $46.90 (after using a discount code they provided). I prefer not to mention the company's name since other dealers have been complaining to Nitecore about this vendor's low prices. Yes, the flashlights are definitely the "genuine article."


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## DenBarrettSAR (Mar 17, 2013)

AbnInfantry said:


> I bought them from a company in Hong Kong which is often mentioned here on CPF. They sell the Nitecore P25 (black or gray) for $65.89, which comes to $62.60 after a 5% CPF discount. I bought one of my three Nitecore EA4s from them for only $46.90 (after using a discount code they provided). I prefer not to mention the company's name since other dealers have been complaining to Nitecore about this vendor's low prices. Yes, the flashlights are definitely the "genuine article."



not bad prices 
I like the price & the EA4s. *now tries to use telepathy to read your mind on this vendor you hide* :thinking:


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## bluemax_1 (Mar 17, 2013)

AbnInfantry said:


> I bought them from a company in Hong Kong which is often mentioned here on CPF. They sell the Nitecore P25 (black or gray) for $65.89, which comes to $62.60 after a 5% CPF discount. I bought one of my three Nitecore EA4s from them for only $46.90 (after using a discount code they provided). I prefer not to mention the company's name since other dealers have been complaining to Nitecore about this vendor's low prices. Yes, the flashlights are definitely the "genuine article."


Mine is on the way from them too. Its arrival is eagerly anticipated. 

I also realized that it'll make a pretty good backpacking/camping light for me too. More lumens than my 1G TK41 (860 vs 800 for the older TK41), but the hotspot is less intense (20,000 candela vs 55,000). Smaller size, 325 hour low mode, waterproof to 2m, AND I can even recharge it directly with my Nomad 27 GoalZero solar panel.


Max


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## holylight (Mar 18, 2013)

AbnInfantry said:


> I bought them from a company in Hong Kong which is often mentioned here on CPF. They sell the Nitecore P25 (black or gray) for $65.89, which comes to $62.60 after a 5% CPF discount. I bought one of my three Nitecore EA4s from them for only $46.90 (after using a discount code they provided). I prefer not to mention the company's name since other dealers have been complaining to Nitecore about this vendor's low prices. Yes, the flashlights are definitely the "genuine article."



Guess I was chopped $17.40.


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## Dubois (Mar 20, 2013)

Anyone using this as a bike light?


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## bluemax_1 (Mar 20, 2013)

Darn it, I like this light but it seems I lost the 'lottery', and I don't mean the tint lottery.

With the various reviews and owner pics about, it appears that the orientation of the tailcap relative to the side switch is random. Unfortunately, my copy has the same orientation as Selfbuilt's review copy. In the pic where he's holding it, you can see that in the reverse grip, his pinky has a hard time reaching the side switch. I was hoping to be able to orient the light so I could trigger the rear switch with my thumb and the side switch with my pinky, and I'm a righty, so the gun goes in the right hand, the flashlight in the left. When held so my pinky can reach the side switch easily, my thumb is right on the 'wings' that prevent accidental activation of the rear clicky.

If I were a lefty, this would be perfect because when holding the light in my right hand, my thumb goes right between the wings to the rear clicky, and my pinky rests on the side switch.

The other downside is, after checking he threads on both the head and tail, they're both single helix and made so that they can only screw on in one orientation and will ALWAYS end up at the exact same angle when tightened. Some units evidently have the threading at a different orientation that results in the wings being at a different offset. I could loosen the head a little to change the angle of the offset between the wing tabs and the side switch, but I don't like the idea of the head being a little loose. It's not possible to loosen the tailcap as those threads are anodized and will lockout the light. Now if they had made the light using dual helix threads, instead of single helix, you could unscrew the tailcap and turn it 180 degrees before screwing it back on and the orientation could be flipped 180 degrees, which would allow for lefty or righty use.

I DO like this light in general, but that one problem significantly reduces the ease of User Interface. I can see why Grizzlyb recommends lights with NO side switches, as this would never be a problem for a rear switch only light. This was also the reason I avoided lights like the Sunwayman V11R, as it requires changing grips to turn the light On and then switch between brightnesses/modes.

The 4/7's QPA-G2 that I EDC allows me to turn the light On with my thumb, switch modes, and if I want Turbo, I hold the head with my pinky and twist the body with my thumb and forefinger, and I can also then trigger the strobe with my thumb. If I know I'll be using the strobe, I twist the body while drawing the light and turn it on and trigger the strobe with 2 presses.

A tailcap dual-stage switch in this light combining the interface here and from ZL might be a great solution, if the button was on the tail. Quick half press for Turbo mode (fast activation to brightest mode), more quick half presses to cycle through brightnesses. Long half press to start in Low. Quick full press to start in Strobe mode (that way, under high stress, you can trigger the tactical strobe by mashing the button). That IMO, would be a great interface for a tactical light.


Max

P.S. for anyone who HAS one of these, you can quickly trigger the tactical strobe from any steady brightness level (non-blinky mode) by holding a full press of the side switch. How do you go back to a steady light (non-blinky mode) from one of the blinky modes? From strobe, a half press cycles between SOS, beacon and back to strobe. A full press turns the light Off. Holding a full press also turns the light Off. The only method I've found was to use the side switch full press twice, which turns the light Off, then back On in whatever brightness was last used before the strobe was triggered.


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## RGB_LED (Mar 20, 2013)

As usual, thank you for a great review selfbuilt. I guess USB charging is a pretty good idea from a convenience perspective especially when you're traveling and only have to bring along a micro-USB cord instead of a full-size 18650 charger. 

That said, I was wondering about the USB2.0 charging limits. I don't usually charge my android phone through my laptop USB port due to the 0.5A limit. Instead, I use the included 1A USB transformer that can be connected to AC directly to charge my phone and they have an output of 1A which charges the phone much faster. I'm wondering if using that would reduce the charging time. Or, would it be limited by the charging circuit in the light itself? Have you tried using one of these instead?


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## selfbuilt (Mar 20, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> P.S. for anyone who HAS one of these, you can quickly trigger the tactical strobe from any steady brightness level (non-blinky mode) by holding a full press of the side switch. How do you go back to a steady light (non-blinky mode) from one of the blinky modes? From strobe, a half press cycles between SOS, beacon and back to strobe. A full press turns the light Off. Holding a full press also turns the light Off. The only method I've found was to use the side switch full press twice, which turns the light Off, then back On in whatever brightness was last used before the strobe was triggered.


That's what I did as well, to exit from the strobe. Not sure if there is anything else, other than an off-on cycle.



RGB_LED said:


> That said, I was wondering about the USB2.0 charging limits. I don't usually charge my android phone through my laptop USB port due to the 0.5A limit. Instead, I use the included 1A USB transformer that can be connected to AC directly to charge my phone and they have an output of 1A which charges the phone much faster. I'm wondering if using that would reduce the charging time. Or, would it be limited by the charging circuit in the light itself? Have you tried using one of these instead?


Yeah, this question comes up a lot. I would expect it would all depend on the charging circuitry - your phone can adjust to the 1A transformer because it is designed to. My Rofis TR31C is the only light I've tested so far that has this kind of dual functionality. For a USB-only device, it would probably remain limited to the USB specs, no matter how you connected it. 

This would be a good question to bring up in the batteries and electronics subforum, as one of the experts there might be able to provide more info. Personally, I would be wary of plugging a charger into a transformer it was not designed to work with.


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## picrthis (Apr 6, 2013)

AbnInfantry said:


> The Nitecore P25 is probably my favorite flashlight so far. I bought two (gray finish) P25s for $62.60 each including postage and consider them bargains; the second one came with an improved holster. If I could make two changes to the P25, it would be to add a crenulated bezel and remove the Picatinny rails (which I doubt one person in a hundred has any use for). I am eagerly awaiting the release of Nitecore's SRT6 and SRT7 models which I suspect I will like even better.


Just recieved mine today and I love the light but I'm not a fan of the holster....what does the two of yours look like? any pics of the holsters? I don't know if I have the correct holster or the wrong one some reported on......Thanks


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## holylight (Apr 7, 2013)

too short, with tail fully inserted. the heads too big to enter the holster


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## selfbuilt (Apr 7, 2013)

That's definitely the wrong holster for this light. Here's how my sample fits:


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## picrthis (Apr 7, 2013)

This is the one I just recieved, I'm not happy that the bottom of the light is exposed and would get scraped-up that way; also had t o push the light in real hard to get it to even go in as far as shown in the picture.....the one the EC25 uses doesn't any of these issues.


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## thedoc007 (Apr 7, 2013)

I ordered from FT as well, it came with the short/tight holster. Submitted a ticket, and they sent ANOTHER copy of the wrong one, despite the fact that I submitted pics of the wrong one and explained precisely how the fit was wrong. Franky, I am disappointed more by the service than by the actual holster, after wedging in one a bunch of times it loosened a little bit and is now at least marginally usable. But the service is another issue, if you have a known specific issue with fit and you still don't bother to actually test what you send, you are definitely not adequately caring for your customers.


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## picrthis (Apr 7, 2013)

This is actually Nitecore's fault NOT the Vendor, Yes I'll have to go through the vendor to get a replacement holster I'm sure BUT Nitecore wants to act like a high name brand flashlight maker, and yet this shows that packaging this holster with this light, just makes them yet another Chinese wanna be, I'm NOT impressed by Nitecore LACK of QA....you want play with the big boys you need to better QA.


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## bluemax_1 (Apr 7, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> That's definitely the wrong holster for this light. Here's how my sample fits:


That's definitely a better holster. I have the one pictured below and REALLY don't like it. The light fits extremely tight in it, and is difficult to draw. Forget about drawing it quickly. Why are there so many different holsters?


picrthis said:


> This is the one I just recieved, I'm not happy that the bottom of the light is exposed and would get scraped-up that way; also had t o push the light in real hard to get it to even go in as far as shown in the picture.....the one the EC25 uses doesn't any of these issues.


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## picrthis (Apr 7, 2013)

Yes I'm *VERY* unhappy with Nitecore's "Quality Holster" included :scowl:


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## buds224 (Apr 7, 2013)

Decided to swap my first un-closable P25 holster with my XT11 holster. Both lights fit better in the swap. The 2nd P25 holster I received, with the open bottom, will be packed away.


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## bluemax_1 (Apr 7, 2013)

I'd still prefer the closed bottom holster that fits (actually, a holster that allows bezel down carry would be best), but apparently, the open bottom holster starts out snug, but loosens up after a bit.


Max


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## thedoc007 (Apr 7, 2013)

picrthis said:


> This is actually Nitecore's fault NOT the Vendor




Nitecore may have shipped the wrong holster with their lights originally, and yes, that is definitely Nitecore's fault. But when I submit a help ticket through a vendor, and they send a holster that does not fit, especially after I submit pics and explain the problem, that is very clearly 100% the vendor's problem. Customer service is responsible...if they said Nitecore had shipped the wrong ones, and I would have to wait for a while for the vendor to get the right holster, that would have been ok. But when they assure me that the correct one will ship, and send me the exact same holster again, that is no longer on Nitecore. You have to actually listen to your customers...


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## Grumpy1 (Apr 8, 2013)

Just received my P25 from FT today.  THe best light i've bought so far. Big improvement over my Solarforce. I like the 2 button system over cycling throw the modes every time. Can't wait to take it out in the dark tonight. 
On a side not i received the hole in bottom holster with mine. Not the greatest but at least i didn't receive that tiny holster.


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## X5CR123A (Apr 8, 2013)

Thanks for doing such a great review, not been to CPF for a long time, but your review and others of the P25 have me convinced it's a great replacement for my Inova X5 that's a classic but a bit underpowered by today's standards.

@holylight loving that lanyard, is there a guide anywhere on how to tie them?


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## Grumpy1 (Apr 8, 2013)

Can anybody recommend a proper holster for this light? The holy version doesn't really fit the light properly either, hard to get back out. :thumbsdow The solarforce holster i have is a bit to short for it.


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## AbnInfantry (Apr 9, 2013)

Grumpy1 said:


> Can anybody recommend a proper holster for this light? The holy version doesn't really fit the light properly either, hard to get back out. :thumbsdow The solarforce holster i have is a bit to short for it.



The Nitecore P25 fits fine inside my Maxpedition 5-inch flashlight sheath.


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## picrthis (Apr 9, 2013)

thedoc007 said:


> Nitecore may have shipped the wrong holster with their lights originally, and yes, that is definitely Nitecore's fault. But when I submit a help ticket through a vendor, and they send a holster that does not fit, especially after I submit pics and explain the problem, that is very clearly 100% the vendor's problem. Customer service is responsible...if they said Nitecore had shipped the wrong ones, and I would have to wait for a while for the vendor to get the right holster, that would have been ok. But when they assure me that the correct one will ship, and send me the exact same holster again, that is no longer on Nitecore. You have to actually listen to your customers...


Contact them again, your experience is a lot different that mine experience was after contacting them; in-fact they responded MUCH faster than a popular domestic retailer does that I have been trying to work with on other issues.


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## Grumpy1 (Apr 9, 2013)

AbnInfantry said:


> The Nitecore P25 fits fine inside my Maxpedition 5-inch flashlight sheath.


Thanks i'll look into getting one.:twothumbs


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## picrthis (Apr 10, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> That's definitely the wrong holster for this light. Here's how my sample fits:


I was just told in private email the one that has the whole in the bottom of the Holster is the correct suppiled Holster, I let the person that told me so post about it as he is on here too and no it's not the Asian vendor you might be thinking.


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## csshih (Apr 10, 2013)

We checked with Nitecore and the holster Selfbuilt has (great review btw!) was a sample and didn't make it to full production it seems.

The holster with the hole in the bottom is supposed to be the proper one.


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## selfbuilt (Apr 10, 2013)

csshih said:


> We checked with Nitecore and the holster Selfbuilt has (great review btw!) was a sample and didn't make it to full production it seems.
> The holster with the hole in the bottom is supposed to be the proper one.


Thanks Craig, good to know.


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## deniscure (Apr 10, 2013)

I currently run my P25 with a Nitecore 2300mAh 18650. I just ordered a Nitecore 3100 mAh. Will this give more light or just extended runtime?

Thank you!


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## picrthis (Apr 10, 2013)

deniscure said:


> I currently run my P25 with a Nitecore 2300mAh 18650. I just ordered a Nitecore 3100 mAh. Will this give more light or just extended runtime?
> 
> Thank you!


Just more runtime.


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## PayBack (Apr 11, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> There's plenty of small button top cells on the market. In addition to my lower capacity AWs, my Xtar and 4GREER 3100mAh cells both work fine.



"small button top" cells is right. My "big button top" cells don't work either.. out of my 8 18650's only one works lol.


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## SeamusORiley (Apr 12, 2013)

I got my fourth P25 (this one is for me) and four holsters are all too small. Fasttech. 

One of them I got from a USA dealer who seemed to be surprised by the issue and said he'd get back to me...nothing in about a month. 

It's a great light and I'm not likely to use the holster, but it would still be nice to have a proper fitting one should we go hiking this summer.


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## picrthis (Apr 12, 2013)

I know what you mean by the Holster issue, it doesn't matter who you buy it from Domestic or Asian Dealer that Holster is packaged by Nitecore and for some reason Nitecore decided to save 2" of material on the holster......yet they cleverly sent out a P25 to be reviewed for all to see with the proper holster, seems very much like bait & switch to me; not happy etheir.


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## deniscure (Apr 12, 2013)

Hello again , guys!

I've noticed a particular feature in my P25. If I turn off the flashlight (via Side Switch) while in Turbo Mode and I let it in Standby Mode for a relatively long amount of time, then when I turn it on again it will stay in turbo mode for a few hundred miliseconds then automatically switch - I guess - to the High setting , - pb. firmware trying to avoid draining the battery too much. 

If I immediately turn it off and on again via the side switch it will still pass through the turbo mode to the high setting, but if I cycle through the modes it will reset this "saving mode" feature so it will open and stay in Turbo Mode if I turn it off/on again via the side switch so I have to wait again in Standby Mode if this "saving feature" is to activate itself again.

Have you seen this feature on your P25?

Thanks!

EDIT: 
I've timewatched it and it seems 15 min in standby mode will make the above happen!


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## X5CR123A (Apr 13, 2013)

I could be wrong, but having recently read lots reviews I believe the holster shown that selfbuilt had was the one from the MT26?

Ordered my P25 anyway, expecting to get the hole in the bottom version!


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## buds224 (Apr 13, 2013)

deniscure said:


> Hello again , guys!
> 
> I've noticed a particular feature in my P25. If I turn off the flashlight (via Side Switch) while in Turbo Mode and I let it in Standby Mode for a relatively long amount of time, then when I turn it on again it will stay in turbo mode for a few hundred miliseconds then automatically switch - I guess - to the High setting , - pb. firmware trying to avoid draining the battery too much.
> 
> ...



Just tested your claim on my P25 and it does the same thing. It almost looks like a pre-flash. After this happens, and I begin to cycle through the modes, the next mode is low. It appears that the light is still set on turbo, but with a step-down. Thanks for noticing that. Not a big deal, but good to know.

:thumbsup:

***edit: Food for thought.......maybe it lessens the strain on the battery to go from standby to turbo?


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## thedoc007 (May 17, 2013)

I wonder if you guys can help me...I was going to do a 50 lumen "block of ice" demonstration with the P25, but I never got that far. As the water was just beginning to freeze, I had a thought, and decided to reposition the light so the tailcap would be close to the edge, and set the memory to turbo, so a single switch press would REALLY light it up. As I was trying to do this, given that it was now a ice/water mix, I had to use a little force to break some of the ice off. You may guess where this is going...I used a little too much force, and I managed to slightly unscrew the head from the body (for sure less than a quarter turn, and I think it was less than an eighth turn). I cancelled the test (at least for now), took it out, opened it up, and there was water in every part of the light. A small amount, to be sure, it was not saturated by any means, just a few drops here and there. From the tailswitch to the head, though, every part got some. I am happy to report that I tested every mode, both switches, and it continued to work properly, no flickering or outages, despite the water. So the light is definitely water resistant even when water gets inside of it.

Most of the water was very easy to get out, I cleaned up the tail and battery tube in about 30 seconds. I'm stuck on the water in the head, though. It seems to be a sealed unit - I placed it in direct sunlight, and the water simply moved to a different part of the head. I tried the "bag of rice" trick last night also, and that did absolutely nothing. Is there anyone who has taken the head apart on their P25, or who has other ideas on how the get the water out?


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## holylight (May 17, 2013)

Hair dryer? Careful not to melt the parts!


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## thedoc007 (May 17, 2013)

I don't think that will help...problem is the head seems to be sealed, so heating it doesn't do anything to draw the water out. Evaporation is only useful if it has somewhere else to go...otherwise the sun/rice would have taken care of it no problem. I completely soaked a cell phone walking through a river, and it worked just fine after I baked it in the sun, and did the rice trick...but it hasn't done anything at all to help the P25. I can move the water around, make the droplets bigger or smaller, but I need a way to remove them completely.


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## picrthis (May 17, 2013)

It can't be that sealed if water got into it, have you tried some compressed nitrogen?


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## selfbuilt (May 17, 2013)

thedoc007 said:


> It seems to be a sealed unit - I placed it in direct sunlight, and the water simply moved to a different part of the head. I tried the "bag of rice" trick last night also, and that did absolutely nothing. Is there anyone who has taken the head apart on their P25, or who has other ideas on how the get the water out?


Do you mean the water is visible in the reflector? If so, you can unscrew the stainless steel bezel and should then be able to access this part of the head. If you don't have the right tool for the bezel ring divots, the underside of a thick mouse-pad often does the trick (with a bit of force).

In any case, the the bag-of-rice trick can be highly effective - but you often need to give it much longer than just overnight. If you can't get the head open, I'd recommend you try it for at least several days (in combination with direct sunlight when you can), and see how it goes. Good luck!


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## Bullzeyebill (Jul 23, 2013)

Anakin323, please resize your images to 800x800 max pixels.

Bill

edit: poster needs to resize images. His post was removed till further notice.


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## TronPlayer (Jul 23, 2013)

thedoc007 said:


> I don't think that will help...problem is the head seems to be sealed, so heating it doesn't do anything to draw the water out. Evaporation is only useful if it has somewhere else to go...otherwise the sun/rice would have taken care of it no problem. I completely soaked a cell phone walking through a river, and it worked just fine after I baked it in the sun, and did the rice trick...but it hasn't done anything at all to help the P25. I can move the water around, make the droplets bigger or smaller, but I need a way to remove them completely.




One thing about water is that it will eventually evaporate. When it evaporates, it will leave behind minerals that were in the water and produce a water spot. What you want to do is make sure that you leave the light positioned in a way that this drying process won't leave the spot in the middle of the reflector or anywhere else you don't want it.


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## thedoc007 (Jul 24, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Do you mean the water is visible in the reflector? If so, you can unscrew the stainless steel bezel and should then be able to access this part of the head. If you don't have the right tool for the bezel ring divots, the underside of a thick mouse-pad often does the trick (with a bit of force).
> 
> In any case, the the bag-of-rice trick can be highly effective - but you often need to give it much longer than just overnight. If you can't get the head open, I'd recommend you try it for at least several days (in combination with direct sunlight when you can), and see how it goes. Good luck!



Huh, for some reason I never got notified about this post. Thanks for your input though!

Yes, there was water in the reflector. I do not have a tool for it, so thanks for the mouse-pad tip. I'll give that a try sometime, just for grins.



TronPlayer said:


> One thing about water is that it will eventually evaporate. When it evaporates, it will leave behind minerals that were in the water and produce a water spot. What you want to do is make sure that you leave the light positioned in a way that this drying process won't leave the spot in the middle of the reflector or anywhere else you don't want it.



This is exactly what happened. I stopped worrying about it and left it alone for a couple weeks, and the water was gone...but it did leave some water spots. I'm not worried about it - it has become my dedicated beater work light, just stays in my bag as a backup to my usual EDC rotation...in any case the spots are not visible in the beam anyway. Thanks for posting.


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## ven (Jan 23, 2014)

One of my favourite lights,issue free,great ui and would recommend to anyone looking for an 18650 "mall ninja" light.

sounds like you had a bad experience and sorry to hear that,but hardly justified to say its crap and don't buy.....
i won't bother copy and pasting for the other posts....


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## Talbingo (Feb 22, 2014)

I got mine last week & to my pleasant surprise it has the XM-L2 emitter :thumbsup:

I have only tried it in the back yard so far but will be walking the dogs in about an hours time. I'm sure I'll enjoy it.

Also, I got the open ended holster with mine. Seem just fine.


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## zs&tas (Feb 26, 2014)

Talbingo said:


> I got mine last week & to my pleasant surprise it has the XM-L2 emitter :thumbsup:
> 
> I have only tried it in the back yard so far but will be walking the dogs in about an hours time. I'm sure I'll enjoy it.
> 
> Also, I got the open ended holster with mine. Seem just fine.



good news ! i have noticed that nitecore seem slow to update the website with what is actually coming through. i wonder what output you are getting on this emitter then ?


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## ven (Feb 26, 2014)

ven said:


> One of my favourite lights,issue free,great ui and would recommend to anyone looking for an 18650 "mall ninja" light.
> 
> sounds like you had a bad experience and sorry to hear that,but hardly justified to say its crap and don't buy.....
> i won't bother copy and pasting for the other posts....



Just noticed this,just in case anyone is wondering why:thinking: i am a bit to the point,the original post i was referring too has been deleted along with the many more he posted flaming it on all the p25 threads:thumbsup:
Not referring to anyone now here(just wanted to point that out)


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## Bullzeyebill (Feb 26, 2014)

Let's not dredge up an old issue that has been handled by a staff member. 

Bill


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## Talbingo (Feb 27, 2014)

zs&tas said:


> i wonder what output you are getting on this emitter then ?



I can only judge by what I see as I'm not technical, its seems to compete very well with my D40A. Yes, very subjective I know but with fully charged cells in both lights the P25 can light up a large tree across a field at 288m and the house behind that at around 322m, the D40A only lights up the tree. Distances measured on Google Earth so not sure of the accuracy. 

I'm looking forward to SB's updated review at some time in the future.


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## zs&tas (Feb 27, 2014)

Talbingo said:


> I can only judge by what I see as I'm not technical, its seems to compete very well with my D40A. Yes, very subjective I know but with fully charged cells in both lights the P25 can light up a large tree across a field at 288m and the house behind that at around 322m, the D40A only lights up the tree. Distances measured on Google Earth so not sure of the accuracy.
> 
> I'm looking forward to SB's updated review at some time in the future.



that sounds mighty good ! selfbuilts tables show the D40A at 940 lumens and 29'000 lux . it prob now trumps my olight M22 i may have to get one  i have resisted so far but i do 'NEED' a light with built in charger.


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## TheThor (May 28, 2014)

Nice!
They are about to launch a new product to the P series. They have talked about the P20 on their facebook page earlier.


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