# Does anyone else have the same experience with S30V steel?



## afultz075 (Oct 11, 2006)

I notice on my Spyderco Native in S30V that the knife loses it's razor sharp edge pretty quickly, after that it's left with a fairly decent working edge that hangs on for an above average amount of time. Is it normal for this steel to lose it's razor edge that quickly?
-Andrew


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## rscanady (Oct 11, 2006)

all depends on what u r cutting, I enjoy the S30V for its edge retention properties, but when I do a lot of cardboard cutting it takes its toll, the knife is still sharp but wont shave hair like straight off the sharpener.

Ryan


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## thesurefire (Oct 11, 2006)

Yep. If I put it into stages of 1 (razor sharp) 2 (close to razor sharp) 3 (sharp) 4 (just barely sharp) 5 (getting dull) it loses 1 and most of 2 very very quickly, but hangs at low 2 and high 3 for a long, long time.


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## Trashman (Oct 12, 2006)

Is there any blade steel that would stand up to a lot of cardboard cutting better than S30V?


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## ginaz (Oct 12, 2006)

M2


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## sgtgeo (Oct 12, 2006)

Talonite would cut much cardboard and keep cutting even after it feels dull, Supposedly this is due to the carbide crystal structure


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## RebelRAM (Oct 12, 2006)

Honestly if you want to do a lot of cardboard cutting, you are usually better off with a boxcutter or one of the folder superknives that have been cloned by many companies now. I keep the Husky(Home Depot) version in my desk at work because I deal with a lot of boxes and packages of computer parts. Plus I hate cleaning tape residue off my knives. With the folding box cutter, when the blade gets too gooey I just toss it and install another blade.

As to S30V performance, I guess I'm seeing about the same performance as everybody else. The hair-popping razor edge can go away fairly quickly, but after that the knife is still very sharp and stays that way for a long time. Even with S30V I still try to maintain my blades fairly well and don't let them get too dull. It's much easier to sharpen a knife that hasn't gotten very dull. Some worry about removing too much metal from sharpening too frquently. But if you just do touch ups here and there, you aren't removing much metal at all. The really dull knives are the ones you have to remove a lot of metal from to bring the edge back.


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## Danbo (Oct 12, 2006)

IMO, nothing stands up to cuttin much cardboard. That stuff dulls anything fairly quickly. But, M2 or S90V(or, any high alloy steel with a lot of Vanadium) would be your best choice. Good luck sharpening those steels though. My advice would be to reprofile whatever blade you use to the shallowest angle and to not let the blade get too dull before sharpening again.


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## wquiles (Oct 12, 2006)

Yes, I see/notice something in my mini Doug Ritter BM (one on top - S30V), and to some degree on my full-size BM 520 Presidio (bottom - 154CM)








But I hardly ever saw this problem with the BG-42 steel in my small Sebenza 

Will


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## KC2IXE (Oct 12, 2006)

sgtgeo said:


> Talonite would cut much cardboard and keep cutting even after it feels dull, Supposedly this is due to the carbide crystal structure



Talonite is strange. I carried a DC Munroe Chimera for a bunch of years - I find that it is extremely hard to keep RAZOR sharp. It fades to a near razor sharp, but then stays there seamingly forever


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## BigHonu (Oct 12, 2006)

I don't recall the same experience with S30V, but I have not cut a bunch of cardboard in awhile either. 

From what I do remember was BG-42, M2, and Talonite were all good provided that the blade was ground fairly thin and the stock was about 1/8 inch or so. The Talonite would loose its razor edge and ability to push cut quickly, but kept on cutting if you used a slicing type motion.


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## rscanady (Oct 12, 2006)

D2 is another that will keep an edge longer, it needs more maintenance than S30V though.

Ryan


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## Topper (Oct 12, 2006)

I am a big fan of D2 but when it comes to cardboard I use a folding boxcutter / super knife clone. Even a razorblade will not stand up to alot of cardboard.
Topper


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## guntotin_fool (Oct 13, 2006)

it sounds like the edge is getting rolled or micro chipping. if you have the ability, get a microscrope and look at the edge. If it is rolling, then you have it sharpened at the wrong angle. S30v seems to work best sharpened not as acutely as some others, and then stropped well. once this is done, they seem to stay sharp for just about forever.


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## Gone Jeepin (Oct 15, 2006)

I agree with Guntotin_fool, it sounds like the edge is rolled. S30V is very good steel and holds an edge for a good long time. I prefer it to it's counterpart VG10 only because I can sharpen it easier. I know others have experienced the opposite effect. For cutting lots of cardboard I go with the others - get a good box cutter and lots of blades. I have also had good luck cutting down piles of cardboard with my Opienel. Just need to hone it a bit when I am done. I think it works well due to the very thin convexed edge.


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## afultz075 (Oct 15, 2006)

I sharpen it at 40 degrees on the Sharpmaker, which is what's recommended by Spyderco. It stays sharp for a long time, but it's just that that wonderful razor sharpness seems to disappear really quickly.


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## guntotin_fool (Oct 16, 2006)

Do you have a strop? or a edge steel? I still think even with the sharpmaker you are not working off the burr..... just my opinion


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## afultz075 (Oct 17, 2006)

I don't have a true strop. Doesn't a piece of cardboard work?


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## RebelRAM (Oct 17, 2006)

I use the cardboard backing off an 8.5"X11" notepad for stropping, seems to work just as well.


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## gbaker (Oct 17, 2006)

rscanady said:


> D2 is another that will keep an edge longer, it needs more maintenance than S30V though.
> 
> Ryan


 
I prefer my BM Grip in D2 over my Spyderco native in S30V for cardboard as well. I haven't noticed that it needs more sharpening or are you referring to corrosion.


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## rscanady (Oct 17, 2006)

yes the corrosion, it will take longer to sharpen to than S30V will, but holds up better. It is more susceptible to corrosion if not cared for though.

Ryan


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## kennyj (Oct 18, 2006)

I'm still working to find the optimal angle for my Sebenza - and I've made a few painful (considering it's a knife originally valued over $400  ) mistakes along the way. I'm glad I'm not the only one with this problem, though. I have found, however, that paying more attention to my sharpening technique yeilds extremely positive results.

One thing to take into consideration, a razor sharp edge requires a high level of polish and this polish is the first thing to go as the knife is used - especially with cardboard, which is a horribly abrasive material to cut through, and quickly chews away at any edge. If a duller knife seems to work better when used with a sawing motion, it's because you're actually cutting with the microscopic pits and jaggies along the edge of the knife (commonly referred to as micro-serrations, and a similar effect can be obtained by simply sharpening with a coarse stone and not honing to a higher grit.) 

One thing that can help is to hone with higher-grit stones or sandpaper, before honing on an arkansas stone or stropping along natural leather or something minimally-abrasive in the same realm. I'm not fond of cardboard as it's inconsistent as a polishing medium; might be good for coarser polishing, but not a great finishing step if you want high polish. Also, the fine hones on a Sharpmaker still aren't that fine - the ultrafine hones get you more in that direction, but you still won't get a polish. You'll still want to finish on another very fine hone, such as an arkansas stone or a natural leather strop.

Of course, the more common advice about edge maintenance applies. The more frequently you hone that edge, the easier it is to keep up. This is especially true with S30v, which is a real pain to reprofile, but which holds its shape quite well. Keep an eye out for edge rolling, etc. Watch your technique when stropping; you don't want to round off the edge.

In closing, I'd like to echo the recommendation that a box cutter be used on cardboard whenever possible. Cardboard is hell on any edge, but no edge maintenance is quicker or easier than outright replacement.


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