# Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS+



## selfbuilt (Sep 6, 2013)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *

Olight has recently updated their S10 and S20 models for 2013, bringing in some of the features of the more recent S15. The new 2013 editions all feature XM-L2 emitters, and are thus sometimes known as the S10-L2 and S20-L2. 

This review will focus on the S20 XM-L2 2013 edition. Please see my S10 XM-L2 review for more info on that model.















Of course, there are few other differences as well – I'll go through all of those in the detailed discussion and testing below. 

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


LED: CREE XM-L2
Output (ANSI)/Runtime: High: 550 Lumens/2 Hours, Medium: 120 Lumens/9 Hours, Low: 5 Lumens/120 Hours, Moonlight: 0.5 Lumens/600 Hours
Peak beam intensity: 3,500 cd
Max beam distance: 118 m
Aviation grade aluminum body, with anti-scratch type III hard anodizing.
There are four brightness levels: Moon-light, low, middle and high. These levels can be memorized when the light turned off; one special mode: strobe.
Under off status, single click will turn on the light, quick double clicking can get high brightness, triple-click enable strobe mode, while long time press enable moon light.
With strong magnet in the end of tail, the flashlight can be stick on the iron surface. The magnet can be removed and replaced by users.
Invertible U-shape embrace clip.
Stainless steel head ring, which can bear higher tensile impaction
Flat tail cap, can be easily head stood.
S20 is designed for a wide input voltage and both 2xCR123A and 1x18650 are available.
Time based thermal management, after lighting on high mode for 4.5 minutes, the output ramps down to 50% of high brightness to avoid overheating.
IPX-8 water resistance
Impact resistant to 2 m (about 6.5")
Dimensions: Length: 4.2" (107 mm), Diameter: 0.9" (23 mm) _[corrected from original specs]_
Weight (w/o Battery): 1.83 oz (52g)
Standard Accessories: Flashlight x 1, Lanyard x 1, Spare O-RINGs x2 sets, Replacer of magnet x 1, User’ manual x 1, Battery Magazine
Optional Accessories: TW10-W White Traffic Wand, TW10-O Orange Traffic Wand, FM10-G Green filter, FM10-R Red filter,
FM10-B Blue filter, DM10 Diffuser, OLB-123S One CR123A 1500mAh 3V Lithium Battery, OLB-123P Two CR123A 1500mAh 3V Lithium Batteries 
MSRP: ~$55














The packaging has been updated, and the new 2013 editions all look the same (i.e., similar to my recent S15 review). Inside the clear plastic container are the light (with CR123A magazine installed), extra o-rings, a simple wrist lanyard, replacement for the tailcap magnet, and manual. There is also an overview of specs on the bottom and back of the packaging.













From left to right: AW Protected 18650 2200mAh; Olight S20 (2013), S20 (2012), Sunwayman C20C; Nitecore EC2; Eagletac D25LC2, TX25C2; Foursevens Quark Q123-2.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Olight S20 (2013, XM-L2)*: Weight: 52.4g, Length: 106.5mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Olight S20 (2012, XM-L)*: Weight: 51.8g, Length: 105.4mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Eagletac D25LC2*: Weight: 50.0g, Length: 116.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.5mm
*Foursevens Quark Q123-2 X* (Regular tailcap): Weight: 44.6g, Length: 112.7mm, Width (bezel) 22.0mm
*Jetbeam PC20*: Weight: 60.0g, Length: 127.5mm, Width (bezel): 22.6mm
*Skilhunt K11*: Weight: 120.5g, Length: 129.6mm , Width (bezel): 34.1mm 
*Sunwayman C20C*: Weight 57.6g, Length: 104.8mm. Width (bezel): 25.6mm
*Thrunite TN10*: Weight: 154.7g, Length: 145.5mm, Width (bezel): 35.1mm
*Zebralight SC600*: Weight 87.2g, Length: 107.8mm, Width (bezel) 29.7mm

Overall dimensions are very similar to the original S20, and other compact lights in this class.


















Physically, the new 2013 editions of the S10 and S20 look generally similar to the old ones. These lights are all quite petite for their respective classes. Lights come with black anodizing (matte finish) and bright white labels. Although still without typical knurling, the raised checkered patterns on the body help with grip. With the pocket clip attached, I'd say grip is reasonably good.

The pocket clip is comparable to the earlier models, no real change for the S20. It seems to hold onto the light fairly securely. I personally like it, as you can clip it on you in either orientation (i.e., bezel-up or bezel-down carry), although it might be rough on clothing given how tightly it fits.

As with the original S20 (but not the original S10), there is a spring in the head. Flat-top cells can work just fine in the light.  This presumably also helps with maintaining stability of battery contact in jarring environments.

Like the other Batons, the S20 2013 uses the same square-cut screw threads as before (anodized for tail lock-out, like the earlier S10/20). 

Light can tailstand, and there is a split-ring/lanyard attachment hole on the side of the tail cap as before. The tailcap in fact seems identical to the original S20, with the same removable strong magnet (i.e., firm enough for the light to stand horizontally off any vertical metal surface). I previously prepared a video of the S10, showing you how to swap out the magnet in the tailcap: 



Note that they seem to have improved the design, as I no longer notice any rattle on the tailcap (as I did on the original S10/S20 with the magnet installed). 

As before, the light uses an electronic switch, located near the head. However, the user interface has been updated slightly from the earlier S20 (see below). And the button design has changed – no longer a soft silicone cover, the new cover is a much harder plastic. Moreover, it only allows a small portion of the underlying red LED to show thought (i.e., the low voltage warning indicator is still there, but a bit less visible).






As before, the light has a flat stainless steel bezel ring with a red o-ring, and a lightly textured reflector. One difference – the lens anti-glare coating is not as pronounced now. :thumbsup: This is actually good news, as I (and others) had found that the anti-glare on the original S10/S20 lens was contributing to the relatively greenish tint. Tint is therefore improved slightly on the new S20 2013.










The main build difference is that S20 has been updated with a XM-L2 Cool White emitter now. The plastic surround has been changed from black to white, but the emitter remains well centered. The reflector remains relatively smooth finish, like the older S10/S20 lights. 

BTW, here is what the old S20 XM-L looked like. 

S20 XM-L





Note the visible grid over the die, 3 bond wires, and green mask surround. These are all classic signs of the XM-L emitter that have been revised on XM-L2 (i.e., no grid, 2 bond wires, and silver mask on XM-L2).

*User Interface*

The S20 2013 interface has been updated slightly from the previous S20, and is now the same as the recent S15. 

Like the other Baton lights, the S20 uses an electronic switch for on/off and mode control. As before, a quick press and release (i.e., click) turns the light on/ off. 

Mode switching is controlled by holding down the electronic switch. The light will cycle between Lo – Med – Hi, in repeating sequence. As before, simply release the switch to select your desired mode. The light has mode memory – if you turn it off/on, the light returns to your previous level.

The S20 continues to features the ultra-low "Moonlight" level. You access this mode directly from off by a sustained (>1 sec) press-and-hold of the switch from off. This is a nice feature, as it means you can always turn the light on in the lowest possible mode if you want (i.e., no matter where you memorized it before). Mode cycling and memory works as before, once on.
_
EDIT: There is another shortcut option here - a double-click from Off will jump you to Hi output level. This is different from a double-click from on, which will give you strobe._

Note that the S20 has a revised "soft lock-out" mode now - if you hold the switch down from off for >2 secs, the light shuts itself off (i.e., after one second of the Moonlight mode). You will not be able to use the light until you unlock it (by pressing-and-holding the switch for >1 sec). Note that this means that if you want Moonlight, you must release the switch before the lock-out takes effect (hold the switch between 1 and 2 secs). To unlock, simply press and hold the switch for more than 1 sec now. Note that this also means that you will return to Moonlight upon unlocking.

There is still a "hidden" strobe mode, accessed by double-clicking the switch when on. Double-click again to return to constant on.

*Video*: 

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:

_Note that this video was prepared based on the pre-release samples I received (without the final packaging – scroll back up for details on it). The physical build and user interface is unchanged in the shipping samples, so the lights look and behave exactly as described below._



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

*PWM/Strobe*

As always, there is no sign of PWM at any output level – The S20 2013 is current-controlled like its predecessors.  






The strobe is a fairly typical fast "tactical" strobe, of 9.8Hz frequency (as before).

*Standby Drain*

As the switch is an electronic one, a standby current drain is always present when a battery is installed. 

I measured this standby drain at 27uA on 1x18650 on my S20 2013, which is basically unchanged from my earlier S20. For a 2600mAh 18650, that would translate into 11 years before a battery would be fully drained. Hardly a concern – although I do recommend you lock out the switch at the tailcap (or soft-lock out electronically) to prevent accidental activation.

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences.

_The original S20 XM-L from 2012 is simply labeled as S20 below, and the new S20-L2 is labeled as S20 2013 XM-L2._





























































Beam pattern remains very similar to the original S20, as you would expect (i.e., the Batons are all relatively "floody"). The main differences are a little more output on Hi (due to the XM-L2), and a slightly improved tint (which you can't tell above, due to the auto white balance). 

The reduced anti-glare coating of the lens on all the 2013 Baton models has reduced the green tint-shifting somewhat, on all my samples. Note that it is common to see warm (i.e., green-yellow) tint shifting at lower outputs on current-controlled lights like these. The original anti-glare coating was exacerbating this tendency, however (by shifting more purple light to the beam fringes and allowing more green light through the center hotpot).

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).










_Note: the official specs to not indicate if 2xRCR is supported, but I have tested it anyway. There is no guarantee that it is stable on this battery source, however._






As you can start to see above, there isn't much of a difference between the new S20 2013 XM-L2 and original S20 – aside from a little more output and throw on Hi.

Note that as before, the Moonlight and Low levels are slightly brighter on 2xCR123A than 1x18650 (and again for 2xRCR compared to 2xCR123A). Med and Hi modes don't change appreciably on different battery sources.

To better illustrate the output differences between the old and new model, here is a detailed output comparison on 1x18650.






Overall, my lumen estimates are pretty close to Olight's specs, although I continue to find a little more max output than they report. 

As always, it bears repeating that my estimated lumen scale is just that - an estimate, based on a consistent calibration of my lightbox. But even though the _absolute value_ correlation is unknown, the _relative_ comparisons still hold. All I can really say is that one light is higher or lower than another, by a certain relative percentage. So please don't get hung up on the absolute values of the estimates, or on small relative percent changes. 

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*



















_Note: the official specs to not indicate if 2xRCR is supported, but I have tested it anyway. There is no guarantee that it is stable on this battery source, however._

Like many recent lights in this class, the S20 continues to have a defined step-down on Hi (after 4.5 mins of continuous runtime in this case). The difference on the Olight S20 series is that the step-down is gradual, taking about 4 mins to level off at the lower Hi level. This is unchanged from the original S20, and continues to mean that you are unlikely to notice the step-down on this series. Note that you can turn the light off-on to restore initial max output.

The output/runtime curves for the new S20 do not look appreciably different, except for a small bump in output on Med and Hi (thanks to the higher output bin XM-L2 used, presumably). As before, on all batteries, overall efficiency is excellent at all output levels tested.

*Potential Issues*

All Baton lights use an electronic switch, and therefore require a small stand-by current when fully connected. However, the standby drain on S20 remains at a ridiculously low 27uA, which would translate into over a decade before an 18650 battery would be drained. 

Accidental activation is always a potential concern with electronic switches. You can "soft" lock out the switch electronically, and you can always physically lock out the light at the tailcap. 

My earlier S10 and S20 samples had a noticeably green tint, especially so at the lower output levels. This is improved on the new 2013 Baton lights, thanks to a reduced anti-glare coating on the lens (which was exacerbating the problem). However, you are still likely to notice a green-yellow tint in the hotspot - it is just slightly less pronounced than the earlier S10/S20.

*Preliminary Observations*

The 2013 editions of the S10 and S20 are a nice update to the line. As you would expect, the changes are more evolutionary than revolutionary. My understanding is that these models will simply replace the old ones as dealers clear out inventory. As such, it's nice to see Olight has kept the price points consistent. 

In terms of the S20, the main headline change is the new XM-L2 emitter (which will give you a small bump in max output due to the output bin increase). Olight doesn't report exact output bins, but my testing results suggest you are looking at about two bin steps here. This will also translate into slightly better throw, simply due to the higher max output.

Otherwise, the beam pattern doesn't change much – except for the slightly improved tint. The original S10 and S20 lights were known for a particularly noticeable green tint shift at lower levels. While common in current-controlled lights, the situation was exacerbated by a heavy anti-glare coating on the lens (which seemed to preferentially diffract purplish light out to the side of the spill, and allowed the green to shine through with the hotspot). All the new 2013 models (including the S15) have a new anti-glare lens coating that is less prominent. While this doesn't completely resolve the issue, you are likely the find the new 2013 models an improvement. 

Another feature that has changed is the on/off button. Now made out of a hard plastic instead of soft silicone, it still retains the low warning voltage feature (i.e., the red LED underneath). 

Circuit function is similar to before, but there have been a few user interface changes. For example, the soft-lockout is now on sustained press >2 sec from off (which I suspect many will find better than the previous location of after three mode cycles). Unlocking the light requires only a 1 sec sustained press though, which may not suit everyone (i.e., it's really no different than entering Moonlight mode normally). But you can always physically lock-out the light by unscrewing the tailcap partially.

What hasn't changed is the over build feel. As before, you get a decent clip (reversible orientation), keychain attachment point, and reasonable grip. The magnetic tailcap is present as before, and you can swap out the magnet if you don't want it. 

Performance of the light remains excellent in my testing, in keeping with the good current-control circuitry (i.e. very long relative runtimes). :thumbsup: Combined with the very serviceable user interface, I can see a lot of people finding much here to suit their needs.

Again, at the end of the day, this is a thoughtful update to the Baton line. A strong contender for those looking for a basic purpose flashlight. :wave:

----

S20 2013 XM-L2 was supplied by Olight for review.


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## holylight (Sep 6, 2013)

*Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

I am first again. Good review thanks.


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## Ryp (Sep 6, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*



holylight said:


> I am first again. Good review thanks.



Darn. Well at least I got first on YouTube. Thanks for the review!


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## holylight (Sep 6, 2013)

*Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*





I used to have the old s20. Is a compact light with easy to use operation. The magnet is strong and you will love it. The tint abit green at low level. High mode is all bright and white.





Present lights. Buy more lights nice !!!


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## tallboybass (Sep 6, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

Thank you Selfbuilt, that answers all the questions I've got for the S20. Are we looking at a similar 14% improvement in the S10? I know, "stay tuned and find out."


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## selfbuilt (Sep 6, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*



tallboybass said:


> Are we looking at a similar 14% improvement in the S10? I know, "stay tuned and find out."


I think you'll find it's pretty comparable. But that review will be up tomorrow.


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## NorthernStar (Sep 7, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

Outstanding review!:thumbsup:

I have some questions regarding the use of RCR123 batteries in the S20-L2. In the old version one could not run those batteries. I can´t find any info in the manual telling that one can run the S20-L2 on RCR123 batteries.:thinking: I can only find info about using CR123 and 18650 batteries.I read your chart and it says that one can have a runtime of 1h 26 min on RCR123 batteries. Did the light got noticeable hotter when using RCR123 batteries? Did it show any visual sign of a brighter beam when using RCR123 batteries?


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## EngrPaul (Sep 7, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

While the spring in the head does allow use of flat-top cells, the main benefit for me is improved function in rough service such as cycling or occupation.

When the light is jarred, the cell does not become temporarily disconnected. For many flashlights, this changes the mode. You do not want your flashlight changing mode during sports or law enforcement.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 7, 2013)

NorthernStar said:


> I have some questions regarding the use of RCR123 batteries in the S20-L2. In the old version one could not run those batteries. I can´t find any info in the manual telling that one can run the S20-L2 on RCR123 batteries.:thinking: I can only find info about using CR123 and 18650 batteries.I read your chart and it says that one can have a runtime of 1h 26 min on RCR123 batteries. Did the light got noticeable hotter when using RCR123 batteries? Did it show any visual sign of a brighter beam when using RCR123 batteries?


To be more exact, neither the original S20 nor this new S20-L2 makes any mention of support for 2xRCR. Generally, I do not test unsupported batteries in my reviews. This is why I hadn't tested RCR on my original S20.

But in the intervening period, I've seen other reports of people running their S20s on 2xRCR. So I thought I would test this new model to see if it handled them. As you can see in the results, there is no difference in max output (although Moonlight/Lo outputs have increased in brightness). But I should have made it clearer that this configuration is not officially supported in the specs (and you are thus taking a risk in running it that way). I will add a note to the review to clarify this.



EngrPaul said:


> While the spring in the head does allow use of flat-top cells, the main benefit for me is improved function in rough service such as cycling or occupation.


That's true - a dual spring design should increase battery contact stability in jarring environments. Although typically I find mode changing occurs in lights with physical clicky switches (where mode cycling is controlled by on-offs). I would suspect a light like this (with an electronic switch) would simply turn off (and stay off) if the current was momentarily disrupted. But either way, it's true the extra spring should help prevent that.


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## kj2 (Sep 7, 2013)

Thanks for the review 
I've the S10-L2 and S20-L2 now on my desk for review.


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## NorthernStar (Sep 9, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> To be more exact, neither the original S20 nor this new S20-L2 makes any mention of support for 2xRCR. Generally, I do not test unsupported batteries in my reviews. This is why I hadn't tested RCR on my original S20.
> 
> But in the intervening period, I've seen other reports of people running their S20s on 2xRCR. So I thought I would test this new model to see if it handled them. As you can see in the results, there is no difference in max output (although Moonlight/Lo outputs have increased in brightness). But I should have made it clearer that this configuration is not officially supported in the specs (and you are thus taking a risk in running it that way). I will add a note to the review to clarify this.



Thanks for clarifying this. I remember in your earlier review of the old S20 you said that it did not supported RCR123's. I am running my S20-L2 on a 18650 battery which gives the best runtime. I was more curious if one could run the light on RCR123's without the risk of damage it's circuits.


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## donjoe (Sep 25, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Note that the S20 has a revised "soft lock-out" mode now - if you hold the switch down from off for >2 secs, the light shuts itself off (i.e., after one second of the Moonlight mode). You will not be able to use the light until you *unlock it (by pressing-and-holding the switch for >2secs again*). Note that this means that if you want Moonlight, you must release the switch before the lock-out takes effect (hold the switch between 1 and 2 secs). To unlock, simply press and hold the switch for *more than 1 sec* now.
> [...]
> Circuit function is similar to before, but there have been a few user interface changes. For example, the soft-lockout is now on sustained press >2 sec from off (which I suspect many will find better than the previous location of after three mode cycles). * Unlocking the light requires only a 1 sec sustained press though*, which may not suit everyone (i.e., it's really *no different than entering Moonlight mode* normally).


There seems to be some confusion in your description above (see red text vs. green text) - I just got the S20-L2 today and found that unlocking it requires the same type of press as going to Moonlight mode: a 1-second sustained press. Pressing the button for 2 seconds from lockout does nothing special compared to 1 second: the light will just unlock and stay in Moonlight mode after the first second, no matter how long you keep the button pressed.

But more importantly, there's an unfortunate side-effect of 1. Moonlight mode being memorizable and 2. Moonlight mode being associated with the same button press pattern as the Unlock action: *every time you Unlock the light you will practically lose the last memorized brightness level*. So when you do, for example, Select-MediumBrightness -> Turn-Off -> Lock -> Unlock => MoonlightMode, you're basically left with 2 possible continuations:
A. You Select-MediumBrightness -> Turn-Off again, which will make sure MediumBrightness is memorized but will defeat the purpose of the first memorization before the Lock action
or
B. You Turn-Off the light, in which case MoonlightMode will get memorized and you will lose the MediumBrightness you had in memory before.

So the problem is you can't Lock and Unlock the S20-L2 without losing (or having to redefine) the last memorized brightness level. This pretty much defeats the purpose of the memory functionality for everyone who wants to Lock the flashlight every time they put it back in their carry compartment / pocket / whatever. Somebody seems to have given insufficient thought to the UI modifications before they made them.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 25, 2013)

donjoe said:


> There seems to be some confusion in your description above (see red text vs. green text)


Yes, the green text was correct - the red text should have read 1 sec, not 2. I will edit it.



> *every time you Unlock the light you will practically lose the last memorized brightness level*.


Yes, that is true - you lose your memorized level if you use the electronic lock-out (or more accurately, it is set to Moonlight).

The physical lock-out can sometimes be used instead, but it is not always reliable. Typically, the light retains the last memorized level if you unscrew the tailcap to break contact with the battery (i.e., turn off at the switch, then loosen the tailcap). However, I have found when re-connecting that you sometimes get a brief (and faint) flash when contact is re-established. If that occurs, your memorized level is reset to Lo. :shrug:


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## Wiggle (Sep 25, 2013)

Looks pretty compact for an 18650 light, would you say this is a pocketable EDC?


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## donjoe (Sep 25, 2013)

It will fit in most pockets, but I wouldn't consider it comfortable to carry in my pants' front pockets for example, as it's just a bit too heavy and it would dangle around in a way I'm sure I wouldn't like, plus I'd probably feel it when I sat down too. I carry it in my cargo pocket at the side of the leg (mostly because that's what I got used to with my previous, larger, Fenix PD3x lights).


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## selfbuilt (Sep 25, 2013)

Wiggle said:


> Looks pretty compact for an 18650 light, would you say this is a pocketable EDC?


It is certainly one of the most pocketable 18650 lights I've tested. But as with everything, depends on the size of your pockets.  Certainly easy to carry, for this class.


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## Ryp (Sep 29, 2013)

Just a side note: your S10-L2 review is not listed on your website.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 29, 2013)

Ryp said:


> Just a side note: your S10-L2 review is not listed on your website.


Thanks, I just realized that myself today while cleaning up some files. It was updated on the Recommendations page, but not the master review list. It will be fixed by this evening.

_Edit: just fixed._


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## Ryp (Sep 29, 2013)

Thank you!


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## kolbasz (Oct 1, 2013)

Thanks for your efforts Selfbuilt!
Great light, i wish it could be available in NW tint!

Could you guess me the beam angle? 

Thanks in advance!


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## tallboybass (Oct 31, 2013)

I love my older S10 so much, I had to get this one too. It's noticeably brighter and runs for nearly 3 hours on High...YES!! The switch is much easier to operate too. I'm sorry but the blue switch on the new S10 & S15 does NOT work for me!


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## TSD (Nov 6, 2013)

Thanks for another great review selfbuilt. I'm taking a close look at the S20 L2 and S15 L2 for one of my next lights, and I am trying to compare the max output of the S15 L2 on 2xAA to the sustained high output of the S20 L2 post initial drop off. Am I in the ballpark by estimating from your chart that the S20 L2 high output holds steady around 430ish lumens after the initial high ramp down? I am wondering how noticeable the difference between the highs of the S20 and S15 would be to the eye after the S20 ramps down. Thanks!


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## selfbuilt (Nov 7, 2013)

TSD said:


> I am trying to compare the max output of the S15 L2 on 2xAA to the sustained high output of the S20 L2 post initial drop off. Am I in the ballpark by estimating from your chart that the S20 L2 high output holds steady around 430ish lumens after the initial high ramp down? I am wondering how noticeable the difference between the highs of the S20 and S15 would be to the eye after the S20 ramps down. Thanks!


Well, my S20 drops down to a constant ~440 estimated lumens on Hi (after the initial step-down). The S15 on 2xAA (NiMH) give you more like a constant ~360 estimated lumens from the get go.

In practice, you won't find this all that different, given that we peceive light intensity according to a (roughly) cube root. So while the S20 steady state is technically >20% brighter than the S15, it will only seem like <10% brighter.


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## TSD (Nov 7, 2013)

Thank you!


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## EngrPaul (Dec 2, 2013)

The flashlight weighs only 47.5 grams after swapping out the magnet!

Protected Panasonic 3400mA*h cells do not fit...


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## Capolini (Dec 3, 2013)

EngrPaul said:


> The flashlight weighs only 47.5 grams after swapping out the magnet!
> 
> Protected Panasonic 3400mA*h cells do not fit...




Thank you fellow Pennsylvanian! I was wondering about that. I have several spare 3400 mAh Panasonic cells. Just in case[now verified by you!!] I ordered an Eagletac 2500 mAh that Going Gear confirmed that it fits!

Olight seems to be the leader in my collection now over Fenix! M3X. M22, S20[L2] on the way and the S10[L2]! 

I have a confession!! I am a type "A", addictive personality with light # 21 on the way in One[1] year and Nine[9] days of my Addiction,,I mean Hobby!!!:shakehead


----------



## NorthernStar (Dec 3, 2013)

EngrPaul said:


> The flashlight weighs only 47.5 grams after swapping out the magnet!
> 
> Protected Panasonic 3400mA*h cells do not fit...



I am running my S20-L2 with a XTAR 3400mAh battery(which is a protected Panasonic cell) and it fits, but it´s with a very small marginal. The tube on the S20-L2 is tight.


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## Capolini (Dec 3, 2013)

All Eagletac protected 2500 mAh,3100 mAh and 3400 mAh Panasonic cells also work.


----------



## EngrPaul (Dec 4, 2013)

Capolini said:


> All ... 3400 mAh Panasonic cells also work.



As an update, I checked more Pro-Pan-3400 cells that I own. Only one slides in freely, the rest drag along the wall while starting. I don't shove them in because I am concerned that the Kapton tape would be scratched off the foil wire causing a short or the cell might get jammed in.

I have a hunch they might fit better if I remove the label inside the tube which indicates the cell (+) goes down.

I am using mine with a Nitecore HB02 headband for running, replacing my Jetbeam Cycler ST. This is why I love the small size and weight. Removing the clip saves some weight too I suppose.


----------



## Capolini (Dec 4, 2013)

EngrPaul said:


> As an update, I checked more Pro-Pan-3400 cells that I own. Only one slides in freely, the rest drag along the wall while starting. I don't shove them in because I am concerned that the Kapton tape would be scratched off the foil wire causing a short or the cell might get jammed in.
> 
> I have a hunch they might fit better if I remove the label inside the tube which indicates the cell (+) goes down.
> 
> I am using mine with a Nitecore HB02 headband for running, replacing my Jetbeam Cycler ST. This is why I love the small size and weight. Removing the clip saves some weight too I suppose.



You did NOT read my entire post[One sentence]! 

When you "Quoted" me you removed the word "Eagletac" and a few other "*key"* words of mine to customize your own sentence!!!???

I specified "Eagletac" in regards to the Panasonic cells that WORK in the S20[L2]!


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## Capolini (Dec 4, 2013)

Lets SIMPLIFY things here!!

These Three[3] 18650 cells have been CONFIRMED to work in the S20[L2]

1. Selfbuilts AW Protected 2200 mAh cells.
2. NorthernStar used Xtar Protected Panasonic *3400* mAh cells.
3.[ME] Eagletac Protected Panasonic 2500 mAh cells. [*68mm X 18.5MM +/- 0.1mm]*

According to Eagletacs website their Genuine Panasonic Protected 3100 mAh and *3400* mAh cells are the same *SIZE[DIAMETER/LENGTH]* as the 2500 mAh cells. They should also work! My dealer was out of the 3100 and *3400*. I Had to get 2500 by default!!

I can not confirm of any other 18650 cells that would work, other than "Flat tops" which I never use.


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## EngrPaul (Dec 4, 2013)

Capolini said:


> You did NOT read my entire post[One sentence]!
> 
> When you "Quoted" me you removed the word "Eagletac" and a few other "*key"* words of mine to customize your own sentence!!!???
> 
> I specified "Eagletac" in regards to the Panasonic cells that WORK in the S20[L2]!



I only meant to shorten the quote to what I was specifically replying to (Panasonic protected 3400mA*h cells). I did not intend to change the meaning. Sorry. :sigh:

Perhaps there are different flavors of Protected Panasonic cells. Mine were purchased from wallbuys and fasttech. They have the green wrapper with orange stripe up the side. These are the ones that are too tight in my opinion.


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## Capolini (Dec 4, 2013)

EngrPaul said:


> I only meant to shorten the quote to what I was specifically replying to (Panasonic protected 3400mA*h cells). I did not intend to change the meaning. Sorry. :sigh:
> 
> Perhaps there are different flavors of Protected Panasonic cells. Mine were purchased from wallbuys and fasttech. They have the green wrapper with orange stripe up the side. These are the ones that are too tight in my opinion.



I will forgive you this time!  Next time you will have to deal with "Capo" "My Siberian",,,,he is in the mob!!

Your cells are probably about $8 to $10 a piece and have NCR18650B on them with that "Orange stripe". I bought a few on Ebay. They are close to 70mm and thicker[diameter] than most 18650 cells. I have an Olight M22 and this cell barely fits in it.

Panasonic Cells are just that. They are "Cells". Good ones at that!

Numerous[many] manufacturers use those cells and their finished product can have various Diameters and Lengths. 

If you look on here hard enough you will find guys like "HKJ" who test the batteries and provide us with all the necessary specifications.This helps determine whether it will be useable for a specific torch.

Here is his website:

http://lygte-info.dk/


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## EngrPaul (Dec 7, 2013)

The reflector in mine is smooth, not OP. The beam has a nice wide spot and good spill. It is nearly perfect mounted on my head during running. 

I find it amazing that this light is only slightly larger than my AA flashlights!

The beam tint is slightly warm and slightly green, I have no complaints.

I have a personal wish for a "find me" beacon feature in the switch.

Does anyone know if this light shuts down to protect 18650 cells from over-discharging?


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## Capolini (Dec 7, 2013)

*EngrPaul said:

*Does anyone know if this light shuts down to protect 18650 cells from over-discharging? 

*******************************************************************************************

Probably not, that is why it has a "Low battery Indicator" on the switch. The perimeter glows "RED" when the battery is low.

My S10 will just shut off when it can not maintain High. It can stay on "Medium" for 15 minutes or so, but I charge it instead.


----------



## EngrPaul (Dec 7, 2013)

Well I can't see the red light when it's mounted on my head 

I looked around for details, but I couldn't confirm protection. 

I did find something on olightworld that is interesting:

*"The top-of-the-line CREE XM-L2 LED puts out a retina-scorching 550 lumens"*

What? I thought you're not supposed to look directly into the beam? If somebody wants to sue o-light for retina damage, I suppose they could use their own advertising against them.


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## Capolini (Dec 7, 2013)

*EngrPaul:

*I forgot that you use it for a "Head Lamp"!! 

The only thing I can think of is do battery run time tests or trust the specs.. Say it lasts 80 minutes[do you run longer than that?!] at 70 minutes put a fresh[spare] battery in just to be safe!

Even it just got weaker, you should have at least spare battery with you or a back up torch like I always bring when walking the Siberian.


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## Billy Ram (Dec 8, 2013)

I've been EDCing this light "older model"for close to a year now and found it to be my favorite. I'm running AW's 2600mAh battery and charge it once a week. I like the long run time and the magnet comes in very handy. The only thing bad is the push button cover has a hole worn in it making the light not water proof any more. 
Billy


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (Dec 10, 2013)

Two quick questions

1. Why is there a discrepancy in the length measurements, with the O-Light length reported as 86mm, and the selfbuilt length measured as 106.5mm?
2. Since there is no defined behavior for "double-click" from off, does a double click simply go on/off? And further, does a quad-click go on/off/on/off?

Thanks for the review.

EDIT: Since the double-click from on is defined to be strobe, then a quad-click from off perhaps goes on->strobe on->single-click


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## NorthernStar (Dec 10, 2013)

ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> Two quick questions
> 
> 1. Why is there a discrepancy in the length measurements, with the O-Light length reported as 86mm, and the selfbuilt length measured as 106.5mm?
> 2. Since there is no defined behavior for "double-click" from off, does a double click simply go on/off? And further, does a quad-click go on/off/on/off?
> ...



1. That was a typo in the advertisement that was corrected afterwards. The real length is 106,5mm.
2.A double click from off leads to highest mode. A quad click from off leads to: Highest mode>Strobe mode.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 10, 2013)

ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> 1. Why is there a discrepancy in the length measurements, with the O-Light length reported as 86mm, and the selfbuilt length measured as 106.5mm?


Beats me - my measurement is accurate. 



> 2. Since there is no defined behavior for "double-click" from off, does a double click simply go on/off? And further, does a quad-click go on/off/on/off?
> EDIT: Since the double-click from on is defined to be strobe, then a quad-click from off perhaps goes on->strobe on->single-click


Ah yes, forgot to mention that in the review - there is a double-click shortcut from off: it jumps you to Hi. So, a single click from off takes you to your memorized level, a quick double-click from off jumps you from there to Hi. It was discussed on my YouTube page, but I guess I forgot to edit the text (just updated).

Given that strobe is accessed by a double click from on, a quadrupule click from off is another way to get strobe (i.e., memorized level (one click) > Hi level (two clicks) > strobe (four clicks)).

_EDIT: I see NorthernStar beat me to a reply. _


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## NorthernStar (Dec 10, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Ah yes, forgot to mention that in the review - there is a double-click shortcut from off: it jumps you to Hi. So, a single click from off takes you to your memorized level, a quick double-click from off jumps you from there to Hi. It was discussed on my YouTube page, but I guess I forgot to edit the text (just updated).
> 
> Given that strobe is accessed by a double click from on, a quadrupule click from off is another way to get strobe (i.e., memorized level (one click) > Hi level (two clicks) > strobe (four clicks)).
> 
> _EDIT: I see NorthernStar beat me to a reply. _



I posted just a few minutes before you! 

Regarding how the ui works Selbuilt explains it better and more detailed.


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (Dec 10, 2013)

*Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

One last question. If you double click from off, to get to high, then (later) single click to off, and then do another single click to turn on

Does it go to the previous level you were at before doing the double click to high?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TSD (Dec 10, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

No, it comes back on in high.


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## Capolini (Dec 10, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

I got my S20-L2 several days ago. I already have the S10-L2!

Besides being a "Black Friday Special", the reason I got the S20 is because of longer run time with the 18650[my favorite l. ion battery],A little more power and I really like torches that have a low battery indicator or a step down based on decreased power.

I like how petite the S10 is but the lack of low battery indicator[ baffled why they did not continue this like the original S10]and the short run time of the 16340 is a definite negative.At least short to me! i feel like every 15 minutes or so I need to check the voltage!

What I noticed about the S10,,after it shuts off on "High" I can still run it on medium for about 15 minutes but first I have to unscrew the tail cap to jolt the battery again!!

All in all I like my Olight "Family" of torches! I am regressing to childhood here!!! :shakehead

M3X[Father], M22[Mother], S20-L2[Son] and S10-L2[Daughter]!!! lol!!


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (Dec 11, 2013)

*Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

Confused about a comment from the first page. If you lock the light, it loses the memory of which mode it was in, and comes back to moonlight?

So what happens in the following steps?
1. Set to medium
2. Single click for off
3. Press hold, through moonlight, to lock
4. Press hold for 1 sec to moonlight
5. Single click for off
6. Single click --> what happens here??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (Dec 11, 2013)

*Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

I decided on the O-Light S20 L2, which accomplishes almost everything I wanted. First, the spacing is great, and matches exactly my WIBNI (wouldn't it be nice if) list going in. Second, though I like the momentary on via long press of the TX25C2, it isn't that much different from just a single click, because the switch is electronic. This frees up the UI to have long press (from off) to be a "hidden" moonlight, and eliminates the head selector. Last, O-Light somehow managed to keep the bezel diameter the same as the body, which is amazing. I EDC the ShiningBeam S-Mini for exactly that reason, and am looking forward to getting the S20 in the mail.

The low battery indicator is nice, and I'll miss having the "momentary turbo" on the TX25C2. Perhaps in the future O-Light could make strobe be a triple click, and make double click when on a momentary turbo, but some people might prefer the more accessible strobe.

And I'll end with a comment about the moonlight. My Preon P0 has a fabulous pure flood moonlight of 0.25 lms, which could not be more perfect for checking on sleeping kiddos. To this end, the O-Light is twice as many lumens, with a spot, so won't be as good. There is no doubt that the ZL SC600 has the best moonlight solution, but the two deal killers for that guy are the size (bezel diameter), and the complete lack of "lendability".

Thanks for reading. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## AbbyY (Dec 11, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*



ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> Confused about a comment from the first page. If you lock the light, it loses the memory of which mode it was in, and comes back to moonlight?
> 
> So what happens in the following steps?
> 1. Set to medium
> ...



Yes, the step 6 will start in moonlight mode.


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (Dec 11, 2013)

*Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

Interesting. So if you want to get back to high, you single click to moonlight (or long press). Then once it's on, you long press through low-med-high?

If you keep it long pressed, what happens after high?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## AbbyY (Dec 11, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

Indeed. After entering in moonlight mode, you have to keep pressing for cycling through low-med-high and so on. I mean if you keep pressing after high the cycle will start to low mode (not moonlight).


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (Dec 11, 2013)

*Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

Thanks!

On further thought, I like that it remembers moonlight. Though I don't like that locking also locks in moonlight, I'm not likely to use locking too much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## selfbuilt (Dec 11, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*



ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> Interesting. So if you want to get back to high, you single click to moonlight (or long press). Then once it's on, you long press through low-med-high?





AbbyY said:


> Indeed. After entering in moonlight mode, you have to keep pressing for cycling through low-med-high and so on.


Yes, that is all correct (i.e., moonlight becoming the memorized level after lock-out). Of course, once unlocked, you could always jump to Hi by turning off and then doing a double-click. But you might as well just press and hold your way there from moonlight.


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (Dec 17, 2013)

*Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

Seems that no matter what mode the S20 is in (including electronic lockout), a physical lockout at the tail will reset the light to "low", after just tightening the tail and single click.

But this is only true after a sufficient amount of time. Has anybody measured this? Going directly to low mode regardless is a nice feature, making moonlight, low, and high all accessible. It is my preferred method of EDCing the S20.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TSD (Dec 17, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

Man, I really like this little light. Its super slim profile, large hotspot and spill, good mode spacing, and solid runtimes makes it one of my favorites. I'm surprised it doesn't get recommended more on the forum, but maybe it is due to the greenish tint and less than class leading max. Those are my biggest complaints at least, but considering that you can pick it up for under $40, I think it is still one of the better values out there. Still, I feel that there is room for improvement, so I decided to send it to Vinh...


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## Capolini (Dec 17, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*



TSD said:


> Man, I really like this little light. Its super slim profile, large hotspot and spill, good mode spacing, and solid runtimes makes it one of my favorites. I'm surprised it doesn't get recommended more on the forum, but maybe it is due to the greenish tint and less than class leading max. Those are my biggest complaints at least, but considering that you can pick it up for under $40, I think it is still one of the better values out there. Still, I feel that there is room for improvement, so I decided to send it to Vinh...



He could mod that little torch? Isn't the aluminum too thin? I have an M22 and I heard that can not be modded because it is too thin,,,the S20 is much thinner and more frail than the M22?

How much does he charge to mod a $40 light?! I would think the value of the torch would at least double when he gets done.

Let us/me know the improvements. I would imagine you would lose run time just like the bigger torches,,probably/hopefully not as severe.

I will be getting a modded torch[TN31mb] in a few days.My first one! The major factor that has kept me away [until now] was the significantly decreased run time on max.


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## zs&tas (Dec 17, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

dont think his thinking a battery tube mod. im thinking a WaRm LeD in there


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (Dec 17, 2013)

*Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

The cutoff I was writing about earlier looks to be about 5-7 seconds.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Capolini (Dec 17, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*



zs&tas said:


> dont think his thinking a battery tube mod. im thinking a WaRm LeD in there




lol! I think you misinterpreted what I said! :thinking:I specifically remember hearing a member on here say that the M22 could not be modded because he[ one of the modders] felt it was too flimsy. It is not the battery tube that gets modded[no fooling!], however if the battery tube and the general construction is not STURDY enough[too cheap!], apparently modders do not want to do it!


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## TSD (Dec 17, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*



zs&tas said:


> dont think his thinking a battery tube mod. im thinking a WaRm LeD in there



Yup, neutral LED for starters. There may or may not be a max output increase, but he has to take a look at it first. Even if he just changes the emitter to neutral, it will be a significantly improvement to my mind. I am considering getting the newest SC600, but if he can put a neutral emitter in the S20 L2 and boost the max output, I may pass on the zebra (also seems to be having QC problems). Plus, I love a broad spill range, especially for hiking in the woods, and it seems that the S20 has a bigger spill range than the SC600 MKII L2, though both have less than pre-MKII SC600 models.


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## Rick Condon (Dec 29, 2013)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

I got my S20-L2 for Christmas and *LOVE* it. Ordered from Going Gear. Bought the S20-L2, Nitecore i2 charger, 2x Eagletac 3100 mAh 18650s, and the DM10 diffuser. I'm used to purchasing multi-AA lights (Olight S65 and Nitecore EA8) but recently decided I needed the power in a smaller package, so I decided to go lithium. I haven't been playing with this thing for long, but here are my observations. Despite its size the S20-L2 puts out roughly 80-85 percent of the light from the much larger S65. Olight says the S20-L2 has a max of 550 lumens, but Selfbuilt says it's more like 640 lumens. He estimated the max lumens on the S65 to be 660. Considering the S65 is about five times the size of the S20, I find that amazing. My reflector is smooth, not OP like in the pics. I guess Olight changed the specs and this should make the S20-L2 a better thrower. The LED is on the warm side, which is a plus for me.

If you're going to buy this light, do yourself a favour and spend the few extra bucks for both the DM10 diffuser and quality protected Japanese 18650s (Eagletac, etc). You'll be glad you did.


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## tvsinesperanto (Jan 2, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> *Manufacturer Reported Specifications:*
> 
> 
> Dimensions: Length: 3.4" (86 mm), Diameter: 0.9" (23 mm)



Just a heads up, I believe that this is a typo, the actual length listed on the Olight site is 107mm. 86mm is the length of the S10.


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## selfbuilt (Jan 2, 2014)

tvsinesperanto said:


> Just a heads up, I believe that this is a typo, the actual length listed on the Olight site is 107mm. 86mm is the length of the S10.


Yes, it was never accurate. But it is what they reported at the time of the review, so it's what went into that section. Since they seem to have updated it on their site, I'll amend the mfr spec section.


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## gkbain (Jan 6, 2014)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

Got this light a few days ago. It has replaced my Jetbeam PC10 as my nightstand / EDC. Not much bigger but I really like the electronic switch and the UI. It has plenty of floody output. I got some Panasonic 18650 3400MA batteries from China. They will go in but I am afraid to push them in all the way as they may get stuck. Nitecore 3100 fit nicely.


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## Charles L. (Feb 6, 2014)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*

My first new light in a few years. Wow! Technology does evolve quickly. Loving the size, floody light and runtime. The magnet is keeping it fixed over my desk as I type.

Orbtronic 3400's barely fit -- a bit too tight for my comfort level.


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## staticaz (Feb 10, 2014)

Wow? Amazing review, I have two coming Wednesday.....even more anxious to try them out now.

Thanks for your time and effort in putting this together.


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## Billy Ram (Feb 21, 2014)

The center of the push button has fallen out making the switch difficult to use. I have the older model with the soft white push button. Has anyone replaced their push button with the up graded cover ? 
Billy


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## Capolini (Feb 21, 2014)

*Re: Olight S20-L2 (S20 2013, XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS...*



Charles L. said:


> My first new light in a few years. Wow! Technology does evolve quickly. Loving the size, floody light and runtime. The magnet is keeping it fixed over my desk as I type.
> 
> Orbtronic 3400's barely fit -- a bit too tight for my comfort level.




I used E'tac. AW is also a shorter battery that works well. 

I know what you mean,the Orbtronic stick out of the tube a bit far!


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## Albinoni1967 (Mar 6, 2014)

I'm also planning to get this light as well, but does it come in a OP reflector


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## Gene (Mar 6, 2014)

Albinoni1967 said:


> I'm also planning to get this light as well, but does it come in a OP reflector



Mine arrived yesterday and it has the smooth reflector and not OP. Mine unfortunately has the green tint like the S10 and again, in ALL modes. It's not as pronounced as my S10 but it's definitely there. Maybe my eyes perceive green more than others. You folks that have beams in your S10/S20's that are pure white sure are lucky. 

However, it's still a great light. I have small hands but for me, it's easier to manipulate than the S10. It just feels so right in-hand. I love the side switch, the simple UI and the magnet is so handy. With the longer runtime of the 18650, the larger size of the S20 over the S10 is well worth the trade-off but they're both very niice lights. Now, if I could only get rid of that green!


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## Albinoni1967 (Mar 6, 2014)

Hi Gene which Cree emitter are you using in yours, regarding the greenish tint you don't think there is a fault with your Cree emitter.


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## Gene (Mar 7, 2014)

It's the latest version with the XM-L2 emitter. No, a lot of folks have complained about the greenish tint. Some get white, some get greenish but most have reported the green only in the low modes. I've been unlucky as both my S10 and S20 have it in ALL modes. It's not terrible but it's definitely there.


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (Mar 7, 2014)

My S20-L2 has no trace of green, even in the low modes. Unfortunately, it's in my archive pile, because I can't deal with the accidental activation.


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## Albinoni1967 (Mar 7, 2014)

Well I've just bought two of these Olights, a S20 and a S15 one 500 lumens and the other 280 I think, with wait and see.


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## serikus (Mar 19, 2014)

Hello! I have a question about item. Anybody, who changed diod in this light, can you tell which is better?  Thank you!


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## LuminousFluxCapacitor (Aug 13, 2014)

I have a question, something which is bugging me.

I've just bought the S20 L2. The box says 550 lumens, but the flashlight itself doesn't have the textured reflector and doesn't say XML-2, like all the photos of the S20 L2 suggest the 55 lumen version should have.

In use, I can't really say it's any brighter than my S10 L2, but then I'm not sure if I'd notice 150 lumens above 400 lumens. Any ideas? Thanks.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 13, 2014)

LuminousFluxCapacitor said:


> I've just bought the S20 L2. The box says 550 lumens, but the flashlight itself doesn't have the textured reflector and doesn't say XML-2, like all the photos of the S20 L2 suggest the 55 lumen version should have.
> In use, I can't really say it's any brighter than my S10 L2, but then I'm not sure if I'd notice 150 lumens above 400 lumens. Any ideas? Thanks.


You won't see much of a difference in output, but it should be noticeable side-by-side.

The XM-L2 emitters are lacking the visible bond wires over the die surface. Compare the close-up pics in this review with the ones in the original S20 (which was XM-L). You should be able to see the difference on your light, to confirm that is is indeed the XM-L2. Reflectors can change over time.


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## LuminousFluxCapacitor (Aug 14, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> You won't see much of a difference in output, but it should be noticeable side-by-side. The XM-L2 emitters are lacking the visible bond wires over the die surface. Compare the close-up pics in this review with the ones in the original S20 (which was XM-L). You should be able to see the difference on your light, to confirm that is is indeed the XM-L2. Reflectors can change over time.


 Thanks, by looking at the photo, it appears to be the XML2 emitter, no bond wires and white surround


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## cogwheel (Dec 1, 2014)

I didn't see this mentioned anywhere yet, but I just received a S20-L2 from GoingGear, and the button is the same as the newer S20R: it isn't raised (so it won't be accidentally pressed as easily in a pocket), has the battery low light as a dot in the center instead of a ring near the edge, and is textured with concentric ridges.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 1, 2014)

cogwheel said:


> I didn't see this mentioned anywhere yet, but I just received a S20-L2 from GoingGear, and the button is the same as the newer S20R: it isn't raised (so it won't be accidentally pressed as easily in a pocket), has the battery low light as a dot in the center instead of a ring near the edge, and is textured with concentric ridges.


Good to know, thanks for the update.


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## Big_Sam (Dec 3, 2014)

Just a note for interest, 

Tested my S20-l2 with an AW 18650, and the low voltage red light comes on at 3.20 volts.


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## keithh (Apr 26, 2015)

I drew up a little state diagram to help the interface. My first 18650 light and I'm really enjoying it!


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## selfbuilt (May 1, 2015)

keithh said:


> I drew up a little state diagram to help the interface. My first 18650 light and I'm really enjoying it!


Cute graph, and :welcome:


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (May 11, 2015)

A comment and a question. My S20 _always_ comes on in low after being physically locked out at the tailcap. I even measured the amount of time it took to "reset" from whichever level was current, and it was about 8 seconds. I like this, because with the quarter turn lockout, any of moonlight, low, and high are accessible, from long press, press, and double click.

Question: what voltage does the low voltage warning come in on? Alternatively, how much capacity is remaining in the light at that point?


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## selfbuilt (May 11, 2015)

ozzie_c_cobblepot said:


> Question: what voltage does the low voltage warning come in on? Alternatively, how much capacity is remaining in the light at that point?


I haven't measured it, or timed remaining capacity. Hard to know, when doing largely automated runtimes. Typically, there is not a lot of capacity left once warning lights come on.


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (May 11, 2015)

I'm trying to answer it, by putting the light on in high for 5-minute increments.


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## ozzie_c_cobblepot (May 16, 2015)

For what it's worth, the resting battery voltage is now at 3.22, the light still runs, and there is no indicator yet on the button.


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