# JetBeam Jet-1 First Impressions Thread



## Solstice (May 1, 2006)

I thought I'd take a page from the way we discussed the Fenix and start a thread about the Jet-1.

My Jet-1 IS HERE! and I am very pleased with it on first inspection. I'll give a basic rundown, using the Fenix for comparison since most people who preordered the Jet-1 are most likely familiar with its direct "ancestor" the Fenix.

Note that my Jet-1 is a "basic" model- just green glow paint, and only the AA tube, so I won't be discussing the CR123 and tritium options.

What you get: the packet I recieved contained a small ziplock back with the retail cardboard insert on top. Inside this bag is the unit inside it's holster. The holster is similar to the covered flap versions that used to ship with the Fenix, but perhaps slightly better quality. There is another bag inside that contains the red and orange tailcaps (black is installed) and a nice lanyard (white with a blue/yellow diamond pattern with 2 black cord stops and a metal clip). Note that spare O-rings nor a battery come in this package.

The Jet-1 itself:

Dimensions: This light is just a hair shorter than the Fenix, but the diameter is noticably thinner . This does mean that the two companies accesories won't be compatible.

General differences/observations: the Jet-1 has TWO O-rings sealing the tailcap and two more on the head end. The reflector has a gentle orange peal texture which does seem to be successful at smoothing out the beam. There is almost NO donut hole when held closely to a surface.

Fit and Finish: the overall machine work seems similar to the Fenix, which is to say, very good. The finish does seem to be "true" HA, but I'll leave it up to others to try scratching it with a knife . The threads are superbly machined with no flanges of metal as seen in the Triton. My only qualms are that the lettering is a bit rough looking and that on this particular unit, there seem to be a few dark stains or marks around the bezel area. Its not too bad and is purely a cosmetic observation.

Ergonomics/switch: The more "triangular" profile of the waist provides a solid grip with which to wrap your fingers around. I have small hands, so I like it more than the Fenix, but YMMV. As mentioned in another thread, the tailcap is VERY STIFF and requires SIGNIFICANT pressure to engage. Its hardly insurmountable though, and won't be too hard to get used to. Note that if anyone is still wondering this light uses a REVERSE CLICKY. Like the Fenix, the clicky is LOUD . On the upside, this may be the least-likey-to-turn-on-accidentally-clicky light I have ever seen.

Tint: We all know about the Luxeon Lottery, but for completeness, I'll say that the tint on this unit looks to be a very nice "WO." Very neutral white erring ever so slightly toward the "warm" side rather than the "cool" side.

Beam/output: I need to find 2 new batteries to test both lights side by side, but suffice it to say that the Jet-1 does appear brighter than the Fenix by a small margin. The beam profiles are very similar in terms of overall size and hotspot/spill ratio, but as stated before, the Jet's slightly textured reflector smooths the beam very nicely and eliminates the donut hole. Its just about "Perfect" IMHO. Whether this will effect throw, I'll have to wait for dark and see.

The glowpaint: IMHO, this is more of a novelty than a funtional feature, but its just me talkin here. The paint is recessed into grooves and takes some direct application from another light source to really get glowing much. Perhaps my opinion on this will change when I use the light in real darkness.

Overall: This light truly does seem to take what was great about the Fenix and improve upon it into a similar but more refined package. First impression improvements would be to improve the laser etching/finish irregularities and perhaps to tweak the switch- it will likely be too stiff for some, and many folks will be crying for a "true" clicky with momentary on. 

Despite some minor quibbles, I could see this light making an EXCELLENT EDC for most anyone. Now begins the arduous task of waiting for the 2 stage tailcap to be released, which I intend to purchase right away.

I encourage anyone to say anything about this light in this thread, and hopefully, before long someone will come along that can post pictures.

I look forward to reading other "reviews"
Jon


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## revv11 (May 1, 2006)

Thanks for your review.:goodjob:


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## Shaocaholica (May 1, 2006)

Thanks for the review. I'll post a pretty lengthy review once I get my 2 Jet-Is with tritium and 123 glow tubes. I pretty much got the whole Jet-I package with all the accessories.


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## nakahoshi (May 1, 2006)

ill add pictures as soon as i get mine, Should be in the next couple days.
-bobby


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## jsr (May 1, 2006)

AAHHH!! I can't wait! You guys are killing me. I'm not very concerned about the logo/lettering. Honestly, I wouldn't mind if all that came off. The color variations may just be due to the HCA process variability. I'm hoping the color is as nice as the pics Emilion posted. I also got a 123A tube which I'll likely be using more often than the AA. I just wanted the AA tube so that I had a light that could use a multitude of batteries. This is also one of the main reasons I prefer the Jet1 with 123A tube over the Fenix P1 (the other being I like the look of the Jet1 better). Seems like the east coast is getting their lights first. I wonder how long before us west coasters get them.


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## Freedom1955 (May 1, 2006)

I hope the 2 stage clicky switch will have the momentary on function.


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## Walt175 (May 1, 2006)

Solstice, I couldn't have said it better myself. After playing with mine for a few hours, I can completly agree with your review. I can't think of anything to add, you did a great job!


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## Planterz (May 1, 2006)

No joy for me today. Whoever gets the chance first, comparison photos with the Fenix is a must.


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## srvctec (May 1, 2006)

Hopefully I'll get mine tomorrow or Wednesday since I'm right smack in the middle of the US.


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## Solstice (May 1, 2006)

Thanks for the feedback guys. I have a couple of things to add/correct. First off, about the lettering- on closer inspection, and considering how small it is, it is actually pretty good. The letters are actually "etched" into the surface- that is, the logo is slightly deeper than the surface, like a relief, and not "painted" on. It takes some serious precision to etch something that small, and it will not come off (as jsr suggested ). Also note that there is what I assume to be a tiny serial number etched into the side of the head, but it is virtually unnoticable and doesn't distract from the minimalist look.

One slightly dissapointing thing I forgot to mention regards the ability of the light to tailstand. That is to say, it *can* without help but it is not very stable- less stable than the Triton and Dorcy CR123 1 Watt, which both wobble a bit, and MUCH less stable than the Fenix, which doesn't wobble. Provided the surface is totally flat and doesn't move/shake, you won't have a problem, but the light will fall over otherwise.

Testing out the beam tonight left me very impressed. This thing can throw beautifully and the beam has some real "wow factor" appeal for such a small light. The CR123 version should be even more impressive since the light will be both smaller AND brighter (and I do plan on ording a CR123 body whenever I put in the order for the 2 stage switch).

Overall, from handling the light more and examining it a bit closer, I am very impressed with the quality of this product, especially considering rather reasonable price. There is a great attention to detail. Little things (like "Jet Beam" written under the head around the positive contact spring). The finish feels better than the Fenix and the overall shape feels a bit more refined. 

Really, my only qualm of any significance continues to be the stiffness of the switch. I can get used to it, but I don't think I'll ever really "like" it compared to my other lights. I'm hoping that Emillion can keep this in mind when making decisions about the 2 stage version. Especially when multiple clicks may be involved, making the light easy to click becomes all the more important. 

I look forward to the next round of impressions by the all the folks that will getting these in their mailboxes tomorrow .


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## Planterz (May 2, 2006)

Do you have a 14500 to try it with?


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## Solstice (May 2, 2006)

Planterz said:


> Do you have a 14500 to try it with?



Sorry but no. Right now I've got an Energizer e2 lithium in there. If you could recommend a good (and inexpensive) site to get these batteries and a charger, I'd be interested. 

As an aside, can you tell me how safe it is to use these batteries in these lights? I know the Jet-I can handle the voltage, but I don't know much about these batteries; are they protected or unprotected? I've read various threads talking about the dangers of using LiOns in lights and that either the light or the battery must be protected, but not both.


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## Planterz (May 2, 2006)

Solstice said:


> Sorry but no. Right now I've got an Energizer e2 lithium in there. If you could recommend a good (and inexpensive) site to get these batteries and a charger, I'd be interested.
> 
> As an aside, can you tell me how safe it is to use these batteries in these lights? I know the Jet-I can handle the voltage, but I don't know much about these batteries; are they protected or unprotected? I've read various threads talking about the dangers of using LiOns in lights and that either the light or the battery must be protected, but not both.


You can get the batteries and charger from AW, or from lighthound (they look to be AW's batteries there). LH is a bit more expensive, but if you're buying something else from them, it might be cheaper when you consider shipping. You'll get them quicker from LH, but AW is pretty quick even considering it's coming halfway around the world. I'd definitely reccomend going with protected cells, as these are pretty much totally safe, as long as you're not putting them in the fireplace or something.


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## Solstice (May 2, 2006)

Thanks Planterz .


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## CroMAGnet (May 2, 2006)

Solstice said:


> One slightly dissapointing thing I forgot to mention regards the ability of the light to tailstand. That is to say, it *can* without help but it is not very stable- less stable than the Triton and Dorcy CR123 1 Watt, which both wobble a bit, and MUCH less stable than the Fenix, which doesn't wobble. Provided the surface is totally flat and doesn't move/shake, you won't have a problem, but the light will fall over otherwise...
> 
> .... Really, my only qualm of any significance continues to be the stiffness of the switch. I can get used to it, but I don't think I'll ever really "like" it compared to my other lights. *I'm hoping that Emillion can keep this in mind when making decisions about the 2 stage version. Especially when multiple clicks may be involved, making the light easy to click becomes all the more important. *



*Wobbles like the $20 Dorcy 1w?? Stiff reverse clickie?



*


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## LEDcandle (May 2, 2006)

My 2 cents impression :-

The Jet-I is overall very nice looking and seems to be of fairly good quality. The body thickness is thinner than the L1P, as evident when you open the tailcap to see the insides but still thick enough. 

A few things I noticed :-
1) Yes, the clicky is quite tough to press. It is a reverse clickie.

2) It has double o-rings on the tailcap. Good for waterproofing. Makes it a little hard to unscrew and after the 2nd o-ring, the tailcap almost wants to 'pop' and fly out. As in it doesn't unscrew gradually. 

3) There is a little bit of epoxy here and there on the body and the glowpaint on mine isn't spread out evenly, but not a major issue.

4) Gets hot REALLY fast (on the 14500) if you hold it by the centre and don't help conduct the heat away from the head. 

5) My light didn't turn on initially, and I tightened the head a little and it worked. Head apparently can be unscrewed. But didn't try to mess with the module inside. Double o-rings on head too. 

6) The rubber tailcap seems to protrude ever so slightly, although the light can still stand on its end. Opening the tailcap and 'unscrewing' the tailcap mechanism with a tweezer a little brings it in some more for more stability. 

7) AW protected 14500 fits very snugly, but only at some angles. 

8) The 'triangle' grip design (centre of the body) doesn't do well for holding the light with 2 fingers, but 3 is ok. As in, if you use 2 fingers to to hold the centre of the light, you will never be pressing on 2 flat surfaces at the same time, as they are not directly opposite each other. 

9) Lens a little dusty on the inside (can't access it as yet without messing with the module inside) and doesn't seem to have AR coating. 

10)There were 2 small 'spots' missing anodisation on the inner-bezel of my light (just outside of the lens). Looks like it might have been clipped there during the anodising process. 

Some initial measurements :-
AA (Duracell) - 1.48v resting, 790ma batt draw, 33 lumens (litebox)

AA (e2) - 1.64v resting (slightly used), 880ma batt draw, 37 lumens (litebox)

14500 - 4.06v resting, 1250+ma batt draw, 80 lumens (litebox) (I assume the figures will drop a little when the Li-on settles)
_Add : The light output seems to go UP instead when the Li-on settles in (3.8+v resting). I think because it changes from DD to regulated. It ges about 95 lumens. I didn't mention but when I first got the light, I chucked in the uncharged 14500 (3.74v resting) and got 95-100 lumens too.

To double check, I chucked in my spare 14500 fully charged, and yup, output was down about 13 lumens compared to a used 14500. Although weirdly, batt current draw was higher at 1.33A on the full batt and 1.21A on the used batt. _

The 14500 is bright, nice and white, but makes it hot super fast, like in seconds and you can start feeling some heat building. That could also mean excellent heatsinking connection to the body. Might do runtime and temp tests in future if not provided by anyone else 

Nice light overall! Will replace my L1P. I'll prob EDC it loaded with a 14500 and carry a spare Eneloop. If long runtime is the order of the day, a batt swap will do the trick. Of course, a true multi-brightness light would eliminate the need to do this 

Add : I got 2760 max lux from 1m. This is when the light was on a 'used' 14500.


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## adirondackdestroyer (May 2, 2006)

LEDcandle

Those are some pretty impressive numbers you got using your "litebox". What did the Fenix L1P (using Lithiums) get on your litebox? Cause the Jetbeam is pretty damn bright, especially on those 14500 rechargables!!! :rock:


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## Freedom1955 (May 2, 2006)

LEDcandle said:


> My 2 cents impression :-
> 
> 14500 - 4.06v resting, 1250+ma batt draw, 80 lumens (litebox) (I assume the figures will drop a little when the Li-on settles)
> _Add : The light output seems to go UP instead when the Li-on settles in (3.8+v resting). I think because it changes from DD to regulated. It ges about 95 lumens. I didn't mention but when I first got the light, I chucked in the uncharged 14500 (3.74v resting) and got 95-100 lumens too._
> ...


 
14500= 95 lumens? Does this mean that it is as bright as a U2 when running a 14500?:huh:


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## Solstice (May 2, 2006)

CroMAGnet said:


> *Wobbles like the $20 Dorcy 1w?? Stiff reverse clickie?
> 
> 
> 
> *



Hey man, just tellin' it like it is . Don't panic, there are many, many things to like about this light. In response to LEDcandle, just wanted to say that my light also has the 2 missing spots of annodize inside the bezel- definately look like rack marks. 

I disagree about the 2 finger grip (though I get what you mean about the lack of 2 parallel surfaces). I find if place the waist of the light in the crux of any 2 fingers, it is easy to grip with one of the flat surfaces held against the top of the bottom finger and the top finger wrapping over the "hump" on the other side. As the top finger naturally wants to "curl" to grip the light, the 2 angled planes make it easier to do this. If you don't put the light in the crux of the fingers and more toward their tips, then you are right, the design makes clicking the switch harder. Of course, any crip would be easier if the switch weren't so freakin' stiff . YMMV of course.


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## oracle2 (May 2, 2006)

Got mine today.
I like this light a lot. All the comments previously stated are all relevant and I dont really need to go over them again.

My JetBeam Serial JET-e1.0A000209 has three small blemishes in the finish on the tail cap. These are only cosmetic
and dont bother me as this is now my EDC and not a show piece.

The 11mm glow in the dark o-rings from

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=112635

Fit around the switch







Sorry for the poor image but you get the idea.


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## jsr (May 2, 2006)

Solstice said:


> about the lettering- on closer inspection, and considering how small it is, it is actually pretty good. The letters are actually "etched" into the surface- that is, the logo is slightly deeper than the surface, like a relief, and not "painted" on. It takes some serious precision to etch something that small, and it will not come off (as jsr suggested ).


 
Sorry, I didn't mean to suggest that the letters come off...I don't even have my Jet1 yet. I was just saying that I wouldn't care if the letters did come off. I prefer no marking on my lights.

BTW, you can pick up protected 14500s and a DSD charger with built-in springs (so no adapters are needed) from e-lectronics.net. I got mine from there and shipping was extremely fast and the owner answered all my annoying questions quickly. Just another option.

LEDCandle - the numbers seem extremely high. Do you have measurements of other known lights such as the L1P or Q3 that we can use as reference and calibration for your measurement figures?


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## LEDcandle (May 2, 2006)

adiron, Freedom, my L1P was the benchmark when I made the lightbox. When running on a fresh Duracell AA, I assigned it 25 lumens. An e2 battery yielded 35 lumens. yes, the thing is really bright; higher than my Gladius max which is about 70 lumens. Being driven at 1250 ma, I think that is possible (and theoretical runtime of 30 mins is consistent with the figure)

Solstice, the grip is not like bad or anything, but compared to the Fenix, it feels a little wobbly. Like you can still 'roll' it around a bit (like how you roll a cigarette). On the Fenix, you can get a solid, flat grip. 

oracle2, nice idea. The glow powder itself on the body isn't very bright/usable at all, I guess more glow stuff would help. I should have gone for tritium, but $30 additional was little ex for me 

jsr, these are my litebox readings for some lights I own :-
*Please remember these figures are not official nor absolutely accurate scientific data, but merely figures from my homemade lightbox. Use with that in mind *

Fenix L1P (Alk) - 25 lumens (benchmark)
Fenix L1P (e2) - 35 lumens
KL3 gen II - 24 lumens
Lambda 3CN2D - 94 lumens
SF P60 - 85 lumens
SF P90 - 126 lumens
SF P91 - 199 lumens
Brightstar HID - 1354 lumens
Nightops Gladius max - 71 lumens

Add : Here are some photos :-

Gladius on momentary max






Jet-I with a fresh 14500 (Direct Driven supposedly)





Jet-I after leaving it on for some time (regulated)





Brightness goes up!


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## setherd (May 2, 2006)

oh man I want mine!


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## jsr (May 2, 2006)

LEDcandle - thanks for the data on your other lights. Damn, the Jet1 is bright!

oracle2 - cool idea! What size o-ring did you use (16mm)?


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## Shaocaholica (May 2, 2006)

Wow, looks like the Jet is a sweet light. Im glad I got everything for it...twice!


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## oracle2 (May 2, 2006)

jsr said:


> LEDcandle - thanks for the data on your other lights. Damn, the Jet1 is bright!
> 
> oracle2 - cool idea! What size o-ring did you use (16mm)?




The o-ring I used was 11mm.
this is a better picture


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## xochi (May 2, 2006)

For the sake of clarity , I'd use some made up unit of measure until you can calibrate your lightbox with an integrating sphere and get 100% same results from a large sample of a large variety of lights. People parrot forumspeak all the time and while your efforts are a great means of comparitive output, some ignorant folks will end up parroting your lumen figures as authoritative. Please don't take this as a dig, it isn't, I'd just like to stress the importance of having some measures that are as objective as possible.




LEDcandle said:


> adiron, Freedom, my L1P was the benchmark when I made the lightbox. When running on a fresh Duracell AA, I assigned it 25 lumens. An e2 battery yielded 35 lumens. yes, the thing is really bright; higher than my Gladius max which is about 70 lumens. Being driven at 1250 ma, I think that is possible (and theoretical runtime of 30 mins is consistent with the figure)
> 
> Solstice, the grip is not like bad or anything, but compared to the Fenix, it feels a little wobbly. Like you can still 'roll' it around a bit (like how you roll a cigarette). On the Fenix, you can get a solid, flat grip.
> 
> ...


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## Marlite (May 2, 2006)

Solstice and LEDcandle, super reviews concise, informative and descriptive. Glad I made the list (in last place). Presume many bulkier and costlier EDC's will be superceded. Will have to be patient and gnaw on reviews until mine arrives, keep 'em coming. Thanks guys.

Many thanks to Emilion, Marlite


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## owenbright (May 2, 2006)

Great reviews. While I wait for mine, I'm going to now have to purchase some 14500's.
The measurements above were done using unprotected 14500's right?
Will the light work with protected 14500's?


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## srvctec (May 2, 2006)

owenbright said:


> Great reviews. While I wait for mine, I'm going to now have to purchase some 14500's.
> The measurements above were done using unprotected 14500's right?
> Will the light work with protected 14500's?



 There shouldn't be any reason protected Li-Ions wouldn't work- same size and voltage as unprotected- just safer because of the protection circuit.

Dogonnit!! I didn't get mine today- will have to *try* and be patient for it to arrive in the next day or two.


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## LEDcandle (May 3, 2006)

xochi said:


> For the sake of clarity , I'd use some made up unit of measure until you can calibrate your lightbox with an integrating sphere and get 100% same results from a large sample of a large variety of lights. People parrot forumspeak all the time and while your efforts are a great means of comparitive output, some ignorant folks will end up parroting your lumen figures as authoritative. Please don't take this as a dig, it isn't, I'd just like to stress the importance of having some measures that are as objective as possible.



xochi, that's true. Guys, pls don't take my lightbox readings as gospel; Also, there might be variances in the LEDs. Mine might be one-off. 

It is unlikely to happen that I'll get a chance to calibrate with an IS and stuff, so I'll stick to the lightbox as it is for comparatives purposes. So far, for 'lower' brightness lights, the readings aren't too far off. One thing's for sure, the Jet-I is recorded as brighter than my Gladius on max. (which has been said to be about 70-80 lumens). I often check against Quickbeam's readings and they aren't too far off.

But you do have a point. Take the readings with a pinch of salt guys!  In any case, if my lumen figures are really inflated based on inaccuracy, then I have a rather shytey Gladius now don't I? 

The *14500* I used is *protected*; that's why I mentioned it fits better at some angles, as the protective strip gets in the way a little (does this mean the tube is not perfectly cylindrical?  )

Great light overall! With great batt options. Runtime on the 14500 does seem a little short though; I played with it quite a bit, and although it's hard to measure sporadic use, it didn't seem like it would last 30 mins. Need to do a test to be sure.


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## jsr (May 3, 2006)

Darn, didn't get my light yesterday either...the suspense is killing me. The low runtime on 14500s is fine for me...I have 2x 14500 cells and can just swap them when needed, especially since SilverFox confirmed LiIons don't self-discharge much.

LEDcandle - no prob about the readings. I use them for comparitive purposes only, same as I do with Quickbeam's readings. Your measurements do seem to be on the high end, but relatively, the Jet1 is still brighter than your Gladius, so that gives me an idea of what to expect. I hadn't expected the Jet1 to be brighter than the Amilite, but since it seems it is, that kills most of my cravings for an Amilite (good thing, since I'm going broke thanks you all you *******s!).

Argh, wish mine came already. Especially since I'm also waiting for the other things that I ordered with it and hope that they shipped too (I know Emil has been extremely busy, so I hope he didn't forget those other items).


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## LEDcandle (May 3, 2006)

It is a bright little sucker, no matter what the absolute figure is. With such a quick heat buildup, it better be churning out some respectable lumens 

Anyway, is the light called the Jet-One or the Jet-Eye? Just not too sure. I wonder if Emil looks in on this thread. (doubt it though cuz he's so busy)


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## oracle2 (May 3, 2006)

Mine run fine on a protected 14500 cell which I bought from AW

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=97268


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## COMMANDR (May 3, 2006)

Did not recieve my light either... it seems that the JET-I's with tritium vials are taking longer. I figured it would be the case because of the special machining. I feel like a kid on Christmas Eve waiting for the grownups to finish their meals so we can sit down and open presents. I believe that all true flashaholics are just big kids anyway.



IMHO 
I'll be waiting by the mail box!!!


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## Emilion (May 3, 2006)

Thanks for the reviews, these helps the design of future JETBeam accessories and Flashlights (in process....)

For those still waiting for the JET-I, Please accept my apologies. What I sent to the factory was materials for 1000 pcs JET but after the anodizing, only about 40% survived ( not cool >_< ). And what I got from the factory was a mix of everything........blue, green.....(OMG) 

Some O-rings were not installed....some tail caps need a little fix...

I know that JETBeam has a long way to go, and thanks for the nice reviews. I understand that no single flashlight serves all flashaholics but JETBeam and her technical gang will put more ideas and, your valuable ideas into our future babies.


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## luxlunatic (May 3, 2006)

Thanks for the update Emil, now get back to work!!!!!


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## LEDcandle (May 3, 2006)

oracle2 said:


> Mine run fine on a protected 14500 cell which I bought from AW
> 
> http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=97268



my 14500 are the old series with the blue wrappers; they still fit and are removed without too much fuss, though a little snug. They work perfectly otherwise.


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## nightrider (May 3, 2006)

Emilion said:


> For those still waiting for the JET-I, Please accept my apologies. What I sent to the factory was materials for 1000 pcs JET but after the anodizing, only about 40% survived ( not cool >_< ). And what I got from the factory was a mix of everything........blue, green.....(OMG)


Emil. Are you saying that there were production problems and that some of the CPF member's orders will be delayed, or have the CPF member lights been shipped... I'm not clear on this. 

Having not recieved my light yet (as with others here), just trying to understand the current status.

Thanks again for the hard work!


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## Shaocaholica (May 3, 2006)

Emilion said:


> For those still waiting for the JET-I, Please accept my apologies. What I sent to the factory was materials for 1000 pcs JET but after the anodizing, only about 40% survived ( not cool >_< ). And what I got from the factory was a mix of everything........blue, green.....(OMG)


Thats terrible! Hope things are working out now! How does anodizing destroy a light?


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## srvctec (May 3, 2006)

Shaocaholica said:


> Thats terrible! Hope things are working out now! How does anodizing destroy a light?



I imagine what Emilion meant was that the quality of the anodizing was just too unacceptable for him to sell.

Still haven't got mine yet.:mecry:


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## Haz (May 3, 2006)

I actually would like to see the colour, depending on the mix it may actually add of bit of uniqueness and character to each light.


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## Solstice (May 3, 2006)

Just wanted to say that I'm sorry if this thread comes as a "tease" for those awaiting their lights. I know what its like to be waiting for a light on order and feeling like the last one on the block to get it (I had issues with recieving my Triton, for example). 

I had assumed that all of the lights were shipped and we'd all be conversing within a day or two. I had no idea that only 40% survived into become a finished product . Still, I'd say this delay is a credit to Emilion for making sure his product lives up to specific standard before going off into the world.

I'll just mention a few details about the finish, as it seems to be the current topic of discussion. As I mentioned before, there are a few slight dark marks or "stains" near the bezel, but generally the overal finish is a very consistant "gunmetal" grey. It is more of a neutral grey than most other HA NAT lights I've seen which tend toward the grey/olive drab side. It is more of a "matte" type finish compared to the slickness of a Jil Lite, for example, but it feels smoother than the Fenix. As far as "field testing" goes, I've had the light riding in my pocket with coins and other metal bits for the past few days and it still looks good as new . I did finally try scratching the tail end with a blade and the knife just skids along without leaving a mark. It seems that the tenacious 40% that withstand the rigors of the JetBeam anno process come out as pretty tough survivors .


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## Walt175 (May 3, 2006)

After re-reading this thread, and examining my Jet more closely, it appears Oracle2 is correct and each Jet is serial numbered. I had originaly thought this was just the model number, but mine is different then his. The number is laser engraved on the side of the barrel that has the emitter in it. Oracle2's was engraved with JET-e1.0A000209. Mine has JET-e1.0A000201. Solstice, what number does yours have? If you have recieved a Jet, please post your number!


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## Solstice (May 4, 2006)

Mine is .....204


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## ROK (May 4, 2006)

mine is JET-e1 0A000023


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## offroadcmpr (May 4, 2006)

I didn't get in on this buy, but if there are any lights that the only problem is cosmetic, I would be more than happy to take it, and I would be willing to pay full price if necesary. I'm with Haz in that it would make my light unique.


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## Solstice (May 4, 2006)

Hi all, me again. Just wanted to share a slightly disconcerning/annoying phenomenon that must have something to do with the contacts (which are BOTH springs, unlike the Fenix which uses a spring for the negative and a contact plate for the positive).

I decided to test a different battery in this light tonight, a Duracell Ultra from an old X1 I wasn't using. The X1 lit up fine with this battery. I finished screwing the Jet-I tailcap down and clicked the switch. Nothing. I unscrewed the tailcap, screwed it back, still nothing. I then unscrewed both the tail AND head, played with the springs a little bit, then screwed them back. Let there be light.

So it seems that the contacts can be a little finicky. I recently unscrewed and rescrewed the head once more and the same thing happened- no light. Undoing and then redoing fixed the problem.

Perhaps the spring must be exactly centered on the battery contact when threads are tightend down? I must say that this phenomenon, coupled with the fact that the positive contact spring is held by a tiny blob of sodder, make me a little concerned about long-term reliability. 

Is there anyone with one of these lights and some better engineering knowledge who can waylay these perhaps unwarranted fears?


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## ROK (May 4, 2006)

Mine is no problem but positive contact spring looks not good.
Why they use spring for positive contact? IMO common use for CR123 body.

Real negative contacts are both ends of battey tube. So if you didn't fully tighten up thread, electic path problems are happend in this kind of mechanism.


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## LED BriCK (May 4, 2006)

Oh man, why did I go for registered mail? I have AW's 14500s sitting in the post office for three days waiting for a signature, and now the JET-I is there since yesterday! My wife offered to go pick it up, but of course that lead to, "You have TWO packages now? What's the second one?"


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## Solstice (May 4, 2006)

I find that if I have the "no light" problem when I screw down all the way, backing out just a little and then retightening seems to fix it. I do agree with ROK that perhaps a gold-plated contact plate would have been a better choice for the positive contact.


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## LEDcandle (May 4, 2006)

I did a runtime test with the 14500 here :-
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1394901#post1394901

I should run it with a DMM connected to log the current draw of the batts, but with a spring as positive contact, it is not so simple to secure the whole setup. Will figure something out and might add more info to it as well as other batt types.


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## Emilion (May 4, 2006)

The spring at (+) pole.....the idea is to use AAA cells just in case you don't have anything but AAA (from remote control, BT handsfree). Of cos it won't fits well, but at least, you get some light.

Its a great pain when I open my boxes from the factory...you can't imagine that shock......I've made another batch and hopefully they'll be ready around 7/MAY ( I think I'd better say 10/MAY).

JETBeam.com will be ready after MID-MAY, and I'll announce here. Please register your light on our site.


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## LEDcandle (May 4, 2006)

Dang Emil!!! It works! Haha... I chucked in a 10440 (320 mah) in and it works just fine at full regulated output. Half the runtime of the 14500 expected though. Versatile!


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## auriga (May 4, 2006)

Just got my Jetbeam, it worked fine at first but then i also got the "no light"-problem. It took about 20 tries screwing/uncrewing the tailcap and head to get it working again. It's even worse with the 2AA-adapter on. I hope there will be an easy fix for this problem, now it's really a PITA to change batteries. 
Other then that it seems like a great light. About as bright as my Streamlight TL-2 on 1 NiMH and much brighter on a 14500 or 2 AA of course. The HA is a really nice looking, almost gray color, HA is good on the light but the AA adapter has some marks and patches with lighter color. 
Overall it's a bright, small light and I will definitely use it as my EDC.


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## justled (May 4, 2006)

auriga,I think the "no light"-problem can be very easily fixed by abrading the tail of body(like the photo)


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## jsr (May 4, 2006)

justled - do you mean sanding the tail of the body? Is there anodizing that's causing a poor electrical connection? Have you tried this to confirm it fixes the "no light" problem? Thanks.


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## LEDcandle (May 4, 2006)

Hmm, now that justled mentioned it, i am unable to get 'contact' sometimes when I use my DMM positive lead to touch to that un-anodized 'ring' at certain places. I think there might be oxidation or some other layer over the alu. But I doubt I'll sand mine as it works perfectly.


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## justled (May 4, 2006)

jsr said:


> justled - do you mean sanding the tail of the body? Is there anodizing that's causing a poor electrical connection? Have you tried this to confirm it fixes the "no light" problem? Thanks.


 

yes! sorry for my poor English
I'm from China. I and my friends get JET I form emi 5 days ago(shipping is very fast from HK 2 mainland China),and one of my friend got the "no light"-problem too. Actually,that light is running very well after sanding.It's a really amazing little light!


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## liquidsix (May 4, 2006)

Of all the photos I've seen of this thing, I can't even see the glow paint. I went for the tritium because I didn't want to see some ugly coloured stripe down the side of my light (but a constantly glowing vial is cool). You can barely see the paint, I wonder if I should've saved my money....

Great photos by the way, especially on the 14500 battery review thread.

Can't wait to get mine, but Emil hasn't posted my number yet.


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## LEDcandle (May 4, 2006)

The paint 'works' when intentionally charged with a strong UV or other light. It dims quite fast though, as it is probably only applied thinly and transparently. You can't see any signs of 'whitish' gunk, which also indicates it won't glow as well. But it seems to outlast the glow o-rings, at least at the beginning. 

Tritium is of course da bomb, and if it were slightly cheaper, I'd definitely had taken 3 vials. 1 is kind of redundant in a sense your light might be facing the wrong direction and you never get to see the vial.


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## jsr (May 4, 2006)

I agree with the tritium...had it been cheaper, I would've gone with that, but money is so tight right now that I can't believe I squeeked the Jet1 by the approval process of the misses.
Emilion stated my number shipped, but thus far, no light. I'm on the west coast tho and so far, the only people I've seen that received their lights in the US are in New England. I would've thought the packages would arrive at the west coast ports first.


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## auriga (May 4, 2006)

justled said:


> auriga,I think the "no light"-problem can be very easily fixed by abrading the tail of body(like the photo)



I sanded both ends on the body and one edge on the extra AA-adapter with 600-grit sand paper and cleaned it of with some ethanol. It works all the time now, even with the AA-adapter.
Thank you justled!

About the glow paint, I was also worried it would look ugly, but it's practically invisible in daylight.


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## luxlunatic (May 4, 2006)

One disadvantage of tritium, it seems you always have to wait longer to recieve your light  !


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## hojobones (May 4, 2006)

HELP! I just recieved mine today and it does not work...I tried sanding both ends and still nothing. The only thing worse than waiting for a light is getting one that doesnt work. Any suggestions?


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## Emilion (May 4, 2006)

Hmmm, strange but can you try this? Try unscrew the tail cap and connect the (-) pole of the battey with the body and see if the light works.


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## hojobones (May 4, 2006)

Ok, the light does work when connecting the negative end of the battery with the body. No luck with the switch.


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## Emilion (May 4, 2006)

LEDcandle said:


> Hmm, now that justled mentioned it, i am unable to get 'contact' sometimes when I use my DMM positive lead to touch to that un-anodized 'ring' at certain places. I think there might be oxidation or some other layer over the alu. But I doubt I'll sand mine as it works perfectly.


 I''ve sanded some tubes before shipping but guess that wasn't enough.


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## Emilion (May 4, 2006)

hojobones said:


> Ok, the light does work when connecting the negative end of the battery with the body. No luck with the switch.


 So the problem falls on the switch, do you have tools to disassemble it ?


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## hojobones (May 4, 2006)

that depends...what kind of tools?


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## hojobones (May 4, 2006)

ok i can get the white retainer ring off to the switch/spring comes out. what should i check?


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## LED BriCK (May 5, 2006)

I think I may have the same problem. I've checked the switch with an Ohmeter, and it works. The light itself works if I just connect the (-) end of the battery to the side of the tube. I think the problem is that the sanded end of the AA tube doesn't quite meet the gold ring in the switch. I tore off a little strip of aluminum foil to stick in there, and it works fine now, but this is an extremely inelegant solution. Is there a way to adjust the switch mechanism within the switch tube up closer to the AA tube? Or maybe if I sand some anodizing off the threads would it make contact? I can't quite figure out how to get the switch apart to play with it.


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## magic79 (May 5, 2006)

No light yet. :sigh:


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## hojobones (May 5, 2006)

LED BriCK said:


> I think I may have the same problem. I've checked the switch with an Ohmeter, and it works. The light itself works if I just connect the (-) end of the battery to the side of the tube. I think the problem is that the sanded end of the AA tube doesn't quite meet the gold ring in the switch. I tore off a little strip of aluminum foil to stick in there, and it works fine now, but this is an extremely inelegant solution. Is there a way to adjust the switch mechanism within the switch tube up closer to the AA tube? Or maybe if I sand some anodizing off the threads would it make contact? I can't quite figure out how to get the switch apart to play with it.


 You got me thinking...The switch itself can be removed by unscrewing the white retainer ring inside the end cap. You will see 2 little holes around the spring. A kitchen fork works perfectly to unsrew it. Once the ring and switch mechanism are removed then you will see the gold contact into which the white ring screws in to. That also has 2 holes in which you can use a fork to move up and down the threads. It seems to have fixed my problem for now. It took me a few times to get it right. Hope this helps.


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## LED BriCK (May 5, 2006)

Excellent, I was hoping it might be something as simple as that. So far, I've been unable to find anything that is thin enough to fit into the holes yet strong enough to unscrew the ring, mine seems pretty tight. How'd you fit a fork in there?

Edit- I just felt it necessary at this point to comment that despite this issue, I am very pleased and impressed with this light. Easily outshines my Q3 (3.7V R123) with the included 14500. Great job Emil! I'm looking forward to the 2-stage (which will make my current switch issue moot anyway).

JET-e1,0A000017


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## hojobones (May 5, 2006)

it took a couple of different fork, but one of my moms salad fork worked perfect. keep in mind the whole fork wont fit in there. i used the first and 3rd prong with the 4th one hanging outside the cap.


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## LED BriCK (May 5, 2006)

I got it apart using tweezers and was able to adjust the switch body up, but my bright idea didn't work for me. I think it comes down to dirty contacts, though they sure look clean. I haven't sanded them yet, but i've cleaned them with alcohol and roughly abraded with a file (didn't leave many marks, so I may not have done enough). Off to get some sandpaper...


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## cheapo (May 5, 2006)

lemme know if i am wrong: i have been wanting a cr123 tube with clicky to use r123s in, but- since the 14500 battery also has 750ma, does that mean the light will be just as bright and have just as good runtime as a r123 (750ma)?? Also, this 14500 fits right into the AA tube right?

-David


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## LEDcandle (May 6, 2006)

Yes, cheapo, theoretically the AA has the same performance, subjected to individual batteries. 

Even a AAA Li-on (10440) I chucked in yields full brightness! (expected since its the same voltage. But at only 320 mah, it will last half the runtime) 

The AA sized light is easier to grip in overhand style, but somehow I just get a feeling that R123a batts will receive more development than the 14500. There is absolutely no basis for this; just something gnawing at my gut.

Add : On the topic of lumens, actually based on McGizmo's IS tests, a Lux III overdriven at 1000ma-1500ma can produce about 91-106 lumens respectively. 

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/100228&highlight=integratingsphere

So I don't see why the Jetbeam's 95-100 lumens (although I recalibrated my lightbox and the new figure is around 78) is actually unbelievable if it is indeed driving the Lux III hard. We don't know the exact current going to the LED, but the current draw at batteries does somehow indicate it is being driven quite hard, and a Lux III is capable of those figures, based on a REAL IS test.


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## LED BriCK (May 6, 2006)

Hooray, I got it working! You really do have to just sand the snot out of the end of the tube, in fact I had to do it twice. I'd love to be able to make it so that the threads conduct rather than just the end of the AA tube, or otherwise be able to increase the contact area. As I noted in LEDcandle's 14500 runtime thread, my protected 14500s are too long to allow contact. Maybe I can just find shorter protected 14500s...


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## LEDcandle (May 6, 2006)

I've mentioned earlier in this thread "The rubber tailcap seems to protrude ever so slightly, although the light can still stand on its end. Opening the tailcap and 'unscrewing' the tailcap mechanism with a tweezer a little brings it in some more for more stability."

This will allow the Jetbeam to stand more firmly since the tailcap rubber is 'brought in' a little. But *PLEASE NOTE* that this kills your waterproofness as there is no longer any pressure pressing the rubber rim against the tailcap. 

Brought my Jet for a swim and it got a little damp inside; I believe it was due to this. After tightening, tried switching the light on and off underwater again and it was completely dry inside. 

Not sure how many atmospheres it can go though, as manufacturer did not claim specifically it was waterproof to how many atmospheres.


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## cheapo (May 6, 2006)

I am thinking about getting a 14500 and cranking on a 2 stage switch. That would be kinda like a cheaper aleph 1 (key word: kinda)

-David


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## Walt175 (May 6, 2006)

I guess I can now be the first to report that the HAIII coating is as durable as it looks. I dropped my light for the first time last night.  Of course it HAD to land on the angle iron base of a utility shelf. And of course the part that hit was on a sharp edge where the HA is traditionally the thinest. Drop was about 3 feet. Only damage was a SMALL indentation that I didn't even notice when I first examined the light. The HA isn't chipped or scratched at all. It looks like I just compressed the base metal a little.:goodjob:


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## srvctec (May 6, 2006)

Picked mine up at the post office today since it came yesterday while I was at work and registered mail requires a signature.


Mine has a few (counted 25) _*very small*_ pits/knicks in the body that must have occurred during machining of the aluminum since they all have been covered by the HAIII. They are so small most people wouldn't notice them and they don't bother me in the least since it doesn't affect operation of the light. Neither the head nor the tailcap have any of these slight imperfections at all. The HAIII looks flawless on mine- totally even and exactly the same color on all 3 parts- kind of a regular gray and not the "normal" greenish natural HAIII. I prefer this color over the "normal" HAIII nat.

After reading of the problems with some lights not lighting, I didn't even try to turn mine on. One look at the tailcap end of the body and I could immediately tell there would most likely be issues- what was supposed to be bright shiny bare aluminum was ever so slightly covered with the HAIII coating (extremely thin and kind of mottled- not a solid coating). I used 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and sanded this end of the body until there was bright shiny aluminum all around the end.

The light works fine with either a protected 14500 or 2500mah Nimh battery installed. Boy does it get warm fast with the 14500 installed!

Mine will be a shelf queen until there is a 2 stage clicky- it's much too bright with the 14500 to be of much use to me most of the time- I use a much lower setting for 95% of my lighting needs on a daily basis, but do require max brightness the other 5% of the time.


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## AFAustin (May 6, 2006)

Forgive me if this issue was already addressed, but would the 2-stage switch work with the 14500 cells? It would be nice to confine the super-heating 14500 output to a "burst" function, and have a more utilitarian low setting available.


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## srvctec (May 6, 2006)

AFAustin said:


> Forgive me if this issue was already addressed, but would the 2-stage switch work with the 14500 cells? It would be nice to confine the super-heating 14500 output to a "burst" function, and have a more utilitarian low setting available.



I don't see why it wouldn't. I wouldn't think Emil would make the switch only work for certain batteries since this is one of the fantastic features of this light- ability to use numerous batteries - AAA, AA, 14500 all in the same body.


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## AFAustin (May 6, 2006)

srvctec said:


> I don't see why it wouldn't. I wouldn't think Emil would make the switch only work for certain batteries since this is one of the fantastic features of this light- ability to use numerous batteries - AAA, AA, 14500 all in the same body.



I knew I had seen some mention of this issue somewhere, but it was from a discussion of the upcoming Fenix L1T. 

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=116747&highlight=Fenix+L1T 

That post says 14500 will inactivate hi-low function in the L1T. Is the Fenix a different breed of cat than the JetBeam, or is there disagreement with the poster's conclusion?


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## srvctec (May 6, 2006)

AFAustin said:


> I knew I had seen some mention of this issue somewhere, but it was from a discussion of the upcoming Fenix L1T.
> 
> http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=116747&highlight=Fenix+L1T
> 
> That post says 14500 will inactivate hi-low function in the L1T. Is the Fenix a different breed of cat than the JetBeam, or is there disagreement with the poster's conclusion?



The way I understood that post was that the L1T with a 14500 would run the light without regulation on a freshly charged battery and when the voltage drops enough for the light to be in regulation, then the 2 stage would work.

Of course, I may be totally wrong in how I interpreted it. At this point, I think there is still a lot of speculation on CPF about the latest Fenix lights. I didn't see anything on the Fenix website about how the 2-stage would function with a 14500.

I guess we need to wait for Emil to chime in here for the details on how his 2-stage will work with a 14500.


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## cheapo (May 6, 2006)

well, if a 14500 makes the 2 stage not work, than that really stinks. The 14500 seems to put out too much light, and heat. Not that i mind, but an edc should have decent runtime.

-David


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## AFAustin (May 6, 2006)

srvctec said:


> The way I understood that post was that the L1T with a 14500 would run the light without regulation on a freshly charged battery and when the voltage drops enough for the light to be in regulation, then the 2 stage would work.
> 
> Of course, I may be totally wrong in how I interpreted it. At this point, I think there is still a lot of speculation on CPF about the latest Fenix lights. I didn't see anything on the Fenix website about how the 2-stage would function with a 14500.
> 
> I guess we need to wait for Emil to chime in here for the details on how his 2-stage will work with a 14500.




I see your point---perhaps that is what was being said. This is a concern of mine until we get clarification, as to both the L1T and the JetBeam. I have and love a FF3, and the low-high-burst switch on it is a tremendous feature. To have an AA and li-ion capable, small, inexpensive light with a similar capability, even if just with "normal" and "burst" stages, would be a real winner, IMHO.


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## nakahoshi (May 8, 2006)

MY FIRST IMPRESSIONS: my serial number is 199
Hi all, i finally got my jetbeam, last week took forever! Anyway, i got the package today. Everything looks great! Very clean, the HA3 is even and i havent noticed any blotches. First little problem, only cosmetic, but the JET logo on the AA tube, is a bit cockeyed. The cr123 tube is great, its a real small pocket rocket! I had no problems (yet) with the switch not making contact. The switch is heavy, but its not THAT hard to push, no harder then my E1L switch. Its a solid feel, and i like it. The cr123 tube fits on my tripod, and when screwed in, none of the HA3 was damaged! GOOD JOB! I really like this light, in fact, i sold my fenix collection for this light. The glow paint, isnt very bright, i charged it with UV and took a picture. But, its clear and isnt noticable so it doesnt bother me at all! Their are different color o-rings on the different bodies. Overall i really think this is a solid, And VERY bright light. Also, my Rcr123 do NOT fit (their protected), im sure that has been mentioned, but im talking about MY impressions. Well, ill let the pictures do the talking. 

-bobby






























Enjoy, i hope everyone gets theirs soon.


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## Shaocaholica (May 8, 2006)

What's that attachment you have on the Jet in the tripod picture?


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## nakahoshi (May 8, 2006)

Its just the base of the tripod. Its the handle to loosen the base (to swivel a camera, or light) Its a small tripod, but now i have a great light for pictures!
The base of the CR123 tube attaches to a male screw on the tripod. 
-bobby


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## frisco (May 8, 2006)

Jet Beam 000013 arrived SFO (San Francisco) today safe and sound!

First impression- Very nice!

- AA alkaline about the same as my brightest L1P
- CR123 about 50% brighter than Alkaline
- rCR123 Wow about 150% brighter than Alkaline ! (gets HOT fassst)
- Meter reads with Minolta Digital Lightmeter for Photography

- Fit and finish- as good or better than Fenix
- HAlll natural looks awesome !
- Reported firm switch..... don't worry about it! It's fine!
- Blue Glow....... just ok.... not into it anyway.
- Beam nice and white

Bottom line......... a Keeper !!!

Only negative I see is that the head should have knurling for one hand twist action grip with 123 body,

frisco


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## cheapo (May 8, 2006)

really, i am really thinking about picking one up. Waiting for the 2 stage version with clip though. Can someone please provide us with what we have been waiting for.......... BEAMSHOTS! (compared to other well-known lights). Also, based on those pics, those threads look really thin... not sure if thin threads will hold up. A few of my lights with thin head threads we ruined because the threads wore down and the head wouldnt go on anymore.

-David


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## HEY HEY ITS HENDO (May 8, 2006)

Hey just got mine today no. 193, also got the 123a tube as well
.... everything looks and works good..
yes VERY impressed



the beam is whiter than white, me like !!
BTW the jetbeam 123a tube screws into my L2p head perfectly(need small spring inside under battery)
although its not as bright as the jetbeam, i did it out of curiosity !
........... a big THANK YOU Emilion.


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## nakahoshi (May 8, 2006)

Tried to put my protected r123a cell in the 123tube, DONT DO IT. I needed pliars to get it out, it fits REALLLL Tight, what R123a cells are you using that fit??
-bobby


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## chanamasala (May 8, 2006)

Got mine today too. I think it just took over as my EDC from my Fenix L1. I cracked open a CRV3(not recommended for others) and the 3v AA is blasting away almost as brightly as a 14500 3.7v. The quality reminds me of when I got a Fenix L1P from the first batch; Things got ironed out in subsequent batches. As for the Jetbeam, there is a couple dots on the outside anodizing that are mysterious, some aluminum shavings came out when I took the head off, and the clicky is a tad stiff. Otherwise, it's a screamin' dream. I was worried that handling might be really awkward what with the comments, but it's not that much different than a Fenix, IMO. I can't wait to wow friends, family, and other non-flashaholics out there.


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## frisco (May 8, 2006)

cheapo said:


> really, i am really thinking about picking one up. Waiting for the 2 stage version with clip though. Can someone please provide us with what we have been waiting for.......... BEAMSHOTS! (compared to other well-known lights). Also, based on those pics, those threads look really thin... not sure if thin threads will hold up. A few of my lights with thin head threads we ruined because the threads wore down and the head wouldnt go on anymore.
> 
> -David



Cheapo..... with all due respect.
Why not just get the light .... you seem so very intersted in it? Let the mods come in as they will. In the mean time you can enjoy it the way stands now. If you don't like it..... sell it on BST? I think I may have read about 40 times now that you want a 2 stage clickie. Again with respect.... you seem to be one of the persons with the most enthusiasm about this light..... just get one and enjoy!

JetBeam On !

frisco


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## ernsanada (May 8, 2006)

JetBeam Jet-1, CR123A Body






Top, Jetbeam. Bottom, Fenix L1P
















Comes with a lanyard and a couple of o rings.






JetBeam Jet-1, CR123 beamshot taken at 8.5"






-------------------------------------------------------------------------

The tint of the beam is nice and white. Definintely a T Bin tint. Sidespill is also very good.

The light gets hot very fast. I am using a Protected RCR123. It fits very tight.

I have a couple of chips in the finish. Also some small spots in the HAIII.

Overall I am am very happy with this light.

Thanks Emilion!!


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## jsr (May 8, 2006)

Grr, so it seems the first person in Cali got the light. I wonder when I'll get mine. Did everyone have to sign for the package if it's "Registered"? I had it shipped to a friend's house since there's usually someone home there vs. my place where I'd have to pick up packages later.


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## Planterz (May 8, 2006)

What's the overall length of the Jet1 on the 123Atube?


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## ernsanada (May 8, 2006)

jsr said:


> Grr, so it seems the first person in Cali got the light. I wonder when I'll get mine. Did everyone have to sign for the package if it's "Registered"? I had it shipped to a friend's house since there's usually someone home there vs. my place where I'd have to pick up packages later.



I paid for the light being shipped registered.

I had to sign a receipt for the light. I lucked out, right when I got home the mailman showed up. I saw him carrying that familiar package in his hands.


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## nakahoshi (May 8, 2006)

EMILION HELP!

Sigh!!!!!! My jetbeam AA tube stripped!!! The head wont stay on, the threads slide in and out, they dont catch! i was tightning the jet bezel on to the AA body, and it diddnt feel tight, then it just popped out... I dont know what happend, but something is WRONG. The cr123 tube stays on perfectly, so im hoping its a problem with just the AA body, but i cant tell for sure..
:thumbsdow :thumbsdow :thumbsdow :thumbsdow 


> 2.Life-time warranty
> Each JETBeam product has life-time warranty, provided that the product has never been modified, the bezel is sealed and cannot open. Tritium vials are not covered in our warranty.



perhaps, the first test?

my poor jet beam traveled alllll the way here... had it for less then 5 hours  
-bobby


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## ernsanada (May 8, 2006)

Planterz said:


> What's the overall length of the Jet1 on the 123Atube?



Length is 2 9/16"


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## oracle2 (May 8, 2006)

You wanted beam shots.
I gave it a go. The wall is cream and the camera does not have manual setting so pictures taken with flash of.

JetBeam in both shots with LiIon battery
L1p Energizer E2 Lithium












Yes, the Jetbeam really does make the surefire bulb look that Yellow.


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## cheapo (May 8, 2006)

frisco said:


> Cheapo..... with all due respect.
> Why not just get the light .... you seem so very intersted in it? Let the mods come in as they will. In the mean time you can enjoy it the way stands now. If you don't like it..... sell it on BST? I think I may have read about 40 times now that you want a 2 stage clickie. Again with respect.... you seem to be one of the persons with the most enthusiasm about this light..... just get one and enjoy!
> 
> JetBeam On !
> ...



i think i will just wait for the new model with the clip and 2 stages to come along. Seeing as there is no way to attach the clip to the current one and I WANT A CLIP!

-David


----------



## cheapo (May 8, 2006)

nakahoshi said:


> EMILION HELP!
> 
> Sigh!!!!!! My jetbeam AA tube stripped!!! The head wont stay on, the threads slide in and out, they dont catch! i was tightning the jet bezel on to the AA body, and it diddnt feel tight, then it just popped out... I dont know what happend, but something is WRONG. The cr123 tube stays on perfectly, so im hoping its a problem with just the AA body, but i cant tell for sure..
> :thumbsdow :thumbsdow :thumbsdow :thumbsdow
> ...



i called that one didnt i (look at post #95).

-David


----------



## Planterz (May 8, 2006)

ernsanada said:


> Length is 2 9/16"


Practically identical to the Fenix P1. Should make an interesting shootout.

Still no Jetbeam joy for me. Of course, I had to order a 123A body with blue tritium, which seems to be the last ones being made.


----------



## cheapo (May 8, 2006)

ernsanada said:


> JetBeam Jet-1, CR123A Body
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Can you please enlighten us with some beamshots (VS) other populare cr123 lights? (using r123 in jet).

-David


----------



## nakahoshi (May 8, 2006)

cheapo said:


> i called that one didnt i (look at post #95).
> 
> -David



Tu che


----------



## cheapo (May 8, 2006)

I am gonna be straight up with you... i dont know the meaning of "Tu Che."

-David


----------



## srvctec (May 8, 2006)

cheapo said:


> I am gonna be straight up with you... i dont know the meaning of "Tu Che."
> 
> -David





tou·ché

(t



-sh






)_interj._ Used to acknowledge a hit in fencing or a successful criticism or an effective point in argument.

As taken from here.


----------



## frisco (May 8, 2006)

HEY HEY ITS HENDO said:


> Hey just got mine today no. 193, also got the 123a tube as well
> .... everything looks and works good..
> yes VERY impressed
> 
> ...




My inspection says the threads are NOT a match !!!!! you sure you didn't just ruin your New JetBeam ??????

frisco


----------



## cryhavok (May 8, 2006)

First one to get the light with Tritium and posts a picture gets a cookie!! 


This week is like Christmas for me. I will be receiving:

2 Jet I's, 1 with cr123 & 3 green tritiums, 2 AA tubes with green glow paint
Mclux III PD Fully loaded with tritium, new Ti clip and bezel
Aelph 1 w/ 1xcr123 powerpack and TWOJ/Nexgen750

woohoo!:rock:


----------



## frisco (May 8, 2006)

JetBeam Step One !!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey JetBeamers..... clean and than clean your threads very good. I found and felt allot of fine grit in mine. Just like any new light to you..... clean and lube. I actually did it twice!!
Like butter now.... huge improvment!

frisco


----------



## catmouse (May 8, 2006)

Frisco,

What's a good lube to use? m


----------



## catmouse (May 8, 2006)

post #774 by FlashMike of the original thread has a pic of the tritium vial.


----------



## tsask (May 8, 2006)

interesting to compare it with the Fenix P1cr123 single cell. I wonder how my Ilumabeam Ulteon single CR123 would compare. I definitely like the name, design. could be a must have. the ORB RAW and other lights ,Amilite T3? Jil?? merit consideration.


----------



## frisco (May 8, 2006)

catmouse said:


> Frisco,
> 
> What's a good lube to use? m



Hey Cat,

I think here are several, the one I use is called NYOGEL 779ZC from Lighthound.

frisco


----------



## srvctec (May 9, 2006)

frisco said:


> JetBeam Step One !!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Hey JetBeamers..... clean and than clean your threads very good. I found and felt allot of fine grit in mine. Just like any new light to you..... clean and lube. I actually did it twice!!
> Like butter now.... huge improvment!
> ...



Ditto! Mine was pretty gritty as well.


----------



## LEDcandle (May 9, 2006)

ernsanada said:


> The tint of the beam is nice and white. Definintely a T Bin tint. Sidespill is also very good.



T-bin tint? 
I guess you meant its definitely a T-bin flux judging by its brightness. (Can probably compare with a normally-driven U-bin I bet)

Tint seems to be X0 on mine. Really white, and leaning ever-so-slightly towards warm more than cold, but no trace of pink/reddishness/yellow.


----------



## FlashMike (May 9, 2006)

catmouse said:


> post #774 by FlashMike of the original thread has a pic of the tritium vial.


Thanks CatMouse for giving me credit. I should have turned off the flashes and gotten a picture with the Tritium glowing, since I am sure that is what everyone wanted to see.

For anyone that is not reading the other thread, in post #774, I was showing that the Tritium Vials sit well proud of the surface. I think this is a problem.

Some other notes (these apply to the AA tube)

1) The threads on the head (18.60mm) of the JetBeam are larger than the threads on the tail (17.60mm), so you cannot reverse the battery tube direction (this is not an issue, it is just a fact)
2) Threads on the Fenix are slightly larger (18.83mm), and the same at both ends of the tube.

This means that:
A) The Fenix head or tail will fit LOOSELY on the head end on the JetBeam tube. Don't do this, it will just probably damage threads in one or the other part (or both)
B) The JetBeam head might appear to be threading on the Fenix tube. I am 99% sure this will damage the threads if you try
C) The JetBeam tail will fit nowhere but on the tail-end of the JetBeam AA tube (and I assume 2xAA tube)
D) The JeatBeam head, as well as both the Head and Tail of the Fenix will slip loosely over the tail end of the JetBeam tube.


So don't mix parts. And yes, you should clean and lube your threads.


----------



## FlashMike (May 9, 2006)

Other notes and confirmations

1) Both Lighthound's and Peak's Protected RCR123 will not fit in my 123 tube. This is true for my Amilite also.
2) Lighthound's unprotected RCR123's DO fit. They also fit my Amilite

Not that any of this matters in my case, my 123 tube can't thread far enough into the head to turn on. It is unclear whether this is an issue with my 123 tube or my head. My AA tube works fine.

Finally (at least for tonight), the AA JetBeam will stand on its tail, but mine stands on the button (which makes it a little wobbly) not on the rim that surrounds the button.
- - - - - -
I should be clear about something. I like this light. I have some concerns (most notably the tritium protrusion) and believe there are some items that could be improved, but I do like my little glowing JetBeam.


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## LEDcandle (May 9, 2006)

I think so far all reports indicate the Jetbeam stands on its button as it protrudes slightly. 

As I've mentioned in earlier posts, the tailcap 'sandwich' inside can be unscrewed a little (with a tweezer) to bring the tailcap button in to provide more stable standing. *BUT* this will render your light non-waterproof as there will be no pressure on the tailcap button rim and water can enter from the tail-end, especially if clicked on and off while underwater. 

Do this only if you are sure your Jetbeam isn't going for a swim


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## frisco (May 9, 2006)

Fenix P1 or JetBeam/123

Been playing with the new JetBeam most of the day now. Over all.... thumbs up.... is it perfect...... no..... but it could be on the next version.

Although I bought the optional CR123 tube, I think I will keep mine in the AA/14500 format. Great all around high output package with the rechargeable battery. 

I like twisties if there done right. I'm not one of those that prefers one over the other and that's that. After playing with the Jet in the 123 configuration I discovered that the Fenix P1 is gonna be much better as a "Mighty Mini 123"

Huge problem for me is that the Jet/123 needs knurling on the front portion of the head ala Arc and P1. Without the grip of the knurl it is hard to use as a one handed twistie. I was thinking it will be impossible to one hand the Jet with wet or oily hands. 
This should not be a deal breaker for those thinking about getting this light unless you want a purpose built "Mighty Mini 123" than maybe the JetBeam is not for you.

All in all I am really thrilled with this light, seeing it start from a proposed design and watching the development to a real product! Nice job Emilion !! 

frisco


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## Emilion (May 9, 2006)

nakahoshi said:


> EMILION HELP!
> 
> Sigh!!!!!! My jetbeam AA tube stripped!!! The head wont stay on, the threads slide in and out, they dont catch! i was tightning the jet bezel on to the AA body, and it diddnt feel tight, then it just popped out... I dont know what happend, but something is WRONG. The cr123 tube stays on perfectly, so im hoping its a problem with just the AA body, but i cant tell for sure..
> :thumbsdow :thumbsdow :thumbsdow :thumbsdow
> ...


 Replied to your e-mail this morning (through my own mail server and hotmail).


----------



## nakahoshi (May 9, 2006)

thanks for the quick reply emilion, will be shipping it out in a day or 2
-bobby


----------



## ahchoo (May 9, 2006)

Just got it today:

The good :

1. Very bright! Brighter than Fenix L1P on 1 AA, more so on AAs.
2. Nice Tint, very white.
3. CR123 form factor Rocks! The CR123 tube is better made compared to the AAs.
4. Switch is not as hard as mentioned. Inova T1 is way harder.
5. Very nice even beam. No donut from 10cm onwards. Under 10cm its so bright that the donut is pratically hidden! Am seeing pink spots on my retina as it is from staring at the beam bouncing from a table top at 2cm. 
6. Comes with pouch similar to the old Fenix L1P.

The bad :

1. Finish not as refined as Fenix. Lots of imperfectionsblemishes on the head and tube. 
2. Threads not very smooth. Improves with lubrication though. Tailcap thread don't feel right.
3. Glowpaint practically useless.

hmm....Thats abt it so far....


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## jsr (May 9, 2006)

I checked last night and still not Jet...


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## LED BriCK (May 9, 2006)

Do you think adding more glow paint on top of what's there would increase brightness, or would it just inhibit charging of the GID stuff already there? I might just send away for some, as I also want to put some on my Q3, but the JetBeam is just so pretty as it is...


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## LEDcandle (May 9, 2006)

Whatever you coat on top of the current paint will most probably cover it instead if merge with it. However, if you apply a thicker layer (visibly whitish), it will be brighter and prob last longer than before. But it won't look as pretty IMHO.


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## Solstice (May 9, 2006)

Now that we have some decent photos and beamshots in this thread, we need jtice/nascar/Roy/Quickbeam/whoever to make us some runtime graphs using the various batteries .


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## LEDcandle (May 9, 2006)

I've done a couple of batt types runtimes several days back already. You don't surf the forums enough!  :laughing:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/116817&page=1&pp=30


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## Solstice (May 9, 2006)

LEDcandle said:


> I've done a couple of batt types runtimes several days back already. You don't surf the forums enough!  :laughing:
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/116817&page=1&pp=30



Thanks! I was away (no internet) for four days this past weekend, so I must have missed it . Had I been home, I'm sure I'd have been the first to post in your thread . Any chance you'd be willing to sacrifice a lowly standard alkaline battery "for the team" and see how it fares?


----------



## LEDcandle (May 9, 2006)

Haha... just kidding, I can tell you are an avid forum surfer too 

Sure, I did the other batts first because Emil has already covered Alk AA and CR123 already. Of course, a consumer review is a good way to confirm the results. Will post up once its done in a day or two, unless someone beats me to it. (Pls feel free to post it in my runtime thread if you don't want to start another one and I will update it into post #1)


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## cheapo (May 9, 2006)

ledcandle... if you had to guess, what do you think the jet on 14500s would recieve from FL reviews in terms of throw? Output?

-David


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## [email protected] Messenger (May 9, 2006)

i sent doug an email for the jet1, there might be a review coming later


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## nightrider (May 9, 2006)

Got my JetBeam today  , so here's my first impression:

I ordered the head + AA + CR123 body. I'd have to agree with most things everyone else has mentioned. I didn't notice the finish blemishes too much until I looked at the light under my magnifying lamp... no big deal, but not quite as clean as my Fenix. The beam looks fantastic! The AA is maybe slightly brighter than the Fenix L1P w/ a slightly bigger hotspot. The color is excellent. ..makes my Fenix look slightly purple (which I'd never noticed until side-by-side).

My only complaint... the threads on my CR123 tube are a little boogered up, seemingly near the end of the tube where it has been sanded. I've taken my dremel wire brush attachment and hit the threads lightly. This seems to have helped. Also, it was really hard to turn the last turn or so before the light came on. Taking the little o-ring out solved that problem. Now it is easy to turn (maybe not as waterproof though);

The light is very bright with the CR123 and, as others have mentioned, it gets warm quickly... which really indicates good heat dissipation away from the LED into the body of the light.

Overall a great light - just need the two-stage switch now!


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## Flashfirstask?later (May 10, 2006)

One complaint I have is about the holster pouch for the Jet 1AA. The loop for the belt is lower than I would like causing the pouch to sit a couple inches above the belt and not have the top part at level or below the belt.

Otherwise I rather like this light.


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## srvctec (May 10, 2006)

nightrider said:


> The beam looks fantastic! The AA is maybe slightly brighter than the Fenix L1P w/ a slightly bigger hotspot. The color is excellent. ..makes my Fenix look slightly purple (which I'd never noticed until side-by-side).



Ditto! I forgot to add this to my impression of this light and found _*exactly*_ the same thing. I thought my Fenix was white, which it basically is, it's just on the cool side where the JetBeam is a little on the warm side.



nightrider said:


> Overall a great light - just need the two-stage switch now!



I can't hardly wait to get the 2-stage switch! I actually wasn't going to carry my JetBeam until I got the 2-stage, but have decided to EDC it along with my FluPic modded L1P- I now will always have 2 EDC's even after I get the 2-stage.


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## LEDcandle (May 10, 2006)

cheapo said:


> ledcandle... if you had to guess, what do you think the jet on 14500s would recieve from FL reviews in terms of throw? Output?
> 
> -David



It's quite impossible to say for sure... but just for the sake of an unsubstantiated guess based on my other comparisons with his testing, I would say...

2400 lux (49m)
5100 output (51) :approx 70+lumens

Remember, this is just guesswork for fun (besides the fact diff Jets are probably slightly diff too).  Hope to see it on Quickbeam's site soon!


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## LEDcandle (May 10, 2006)

Solstice said:


> Thanks! I was away (no internet) for four days this past weekend, so I must have missed it . Had I been home, I'm sure I'd have been the first to post in your thread . Any chance you'd be willing to sacrifice a lowly standard alkaline battery "for the team" and see how it fares?



As per Solstice's request, I have sacrificed a lowly Duracell AA for the team. :laughing:

Graph updated in runtime thread.


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## srvctec (May 10, 2006)

Just thought I'd throw this out there. I am using my JetBeam with a 2500 mah Nimh battery in it for the moment, and had to use it for about 5 minutes straight this morning. It got slightly warm- not hot by any stretch of the imagination- just warm. The heat transfer must be fantastic with this thing.

My FluPic/3W Luxeon modded L1P running on a 14500 Li-Ion doesn't get warm at all when set to brightness level 15, for which the brightness looks identical to the Jet-I with a freshly charged 2500 mah Nimh AA.


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## cheapo (May 10, 2006)

LEDcandle said:


> It's quite impossible to say for sure... but just for the sake of an unsubstantiated guess based on my other comparisons with his testing, I would say...
> 
> 2400 lux (49m)
> 5100 output (51) :approx 70+lumens
> ...



ok. I am convinced. Even though it is only a guess, if it gets anywhere near those numbers, it is impressive. I will have patience and wait for the 2 stage version with a clip. Thank you for your help (pics, graphs, etc.)

-David


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## Mini-Moder (May 10, 2006)

I got mine today. First of all, I didn’t get any retail package, just a plastic bag with all the stuff in it. 

I basically agree with what everyone said. One of the first things I tried to do was change the rubber boot, it took me far longer then I thought it would, and it was difficult to get the switch back in on top of it. Other then that this is a great light all around. I don’t care much fro 2 stage but a clicky 123 tube with clip would be nice.


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## FlashMike (May 10, 2006)

Tritium question.

Has any one else received a AA tube where the tritium vials protude above the surface of the AA tube? Here's a picure of one of my vials:






*Emilion* - I would have thought that the highest point on the vials would be at (or below) the level of the surrounding metal. Two of my three vials are notably higher. Is this right?


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## Mini-Moder (May 10, 2006)

Are you sure it is T-Bin? Because it was kicking my U-bin Groovy's butt.


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## frisco (May 11, 2006)

OK..... after a couple days with #013 JetBeam in AA/14500 form.

- Love the HAlll color and finish
- Love the Industrial design
- This light really beams like a bigger 2 cell flashlight
- Almost.... keyword Almost, looks and feels like a light Surefire would build.

- Needs knurling on front part of light head for 123 twisty use.

frisco


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## frisco (May 11, 2006)

cheapo said:


> ok. I am convinced. Even though it is only a guess, if it gets anywhere near those numbers, it is impressive. I will have patience and wait for the 2 stage version with a clip. Thank you for your help (pics, graphs, etc.)
> 
> -David




You may be outta luck ..... was it this light or another I was reading about? If I remember correctly (happens sometimes) This first batch of JetBeams were gonna be Tbin and later retail versions gonna be a lessor grade LED ????

frisco


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## HARDMETAL (May 11, 2006)

I have no jetbeam ,but I find that the mineral glass is very tough even fall from about 1m & the glass with hard surface coating.Hence, it can have higher intensity comparing with other polycarbonate plastic cover .
ALSO ,jb with a the very good reflective cup.therefore , I find it is very bright.


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## HARDMETAL (May 11, 2006)

continu...

the trium tube on the jet beam is quite dangerous ,although the glass is borsilicate (hard). When the glass is broken ,the trium will escape & it is radioactive.


----------



## blake711 (May 11, 2006)

got mine last night its the 123 version. My first impression I was impressed, for some reason it was in my mail box even with registered mail I didn't have to sign for it.. Mail lady must have missed it. 

Anyway I got home to the wife asking. "Did you buy another flashlight?" My response yeah but I bought it a long time ago.  

Anyway I thought the packaging was fine I was amazed at how small it was. I opened it up and quickly noticed issues with the Finish. Mine has defects in the tube and on the head mainly nicks and scratches. My Fenix was imaculent along with all my Surefires being pristine. Anyway I overed looked that as that complaint has already been raised. My light does have a discollered spot also right next to the lens that is ugly and noticable. Still no worries as I will used this a carry light when I don't have a belt on like last night. When it finally got dark I kicked it on along with my L2p with a Duracell Lithiums. Wow This light is nice. no matter how close I hold it to the wall I can't see the center of the led, my l2p will show a dark rectangle. MY l2p is a yellower color closer to a Luxeon bulb instead and my JetI was more of a white with a tiny tiny of blue possible. I didn't compare it to a cheaer LED as I didn't play with it much. As for heat didn't notice any issue I kicked the light on set it on its base and let it run a few minutes. It was barely warm not at all uncomfotable. Anyway Its a nice light the finish is not collector qaulity but other than that I think with a few revisions this will be a great light. 

Blake


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## NoFair (May 11, 2006)

HARDMETAL said:


> continu...
> 
> the trium tube on the jet beam is quite dangerous ,although the glass is borsilicate (hard). When the glass is broken ,the trium will escape & it is radioactive.



They amount of radioaktive tritium gas in the tube is so small that it is of no danger what so ever. 
The hole world is more or less radioactive so there is no reason to be afraid of the minute amounts in a tritium tube....


----------



## Blindasabat (May 11, 2006)

<originally posted Tuesday, May 9th on the Jetbeam sales thread>

Got mine when I got home last night! Serial number 012. For a second I thought I got Serial number 001 since the 2 was hard to see at first.

HA-nat looks nice color-wise. Some small blemishes, but only if I look very closely, and I only did because some people mentioned it here...

Mine lit up right away (both AA and CR123 bodies) with no delay, no issues. Looks like the ends of my bodies have been lightly sanded though(?). This puppy gets HOT fast on RCR123! Must be good heatsinking.

Diameter is exactly the same as the Fenix L2P I compared to. Not thinner as some have reported. 

Does somebody (Arc?) have a patent on knurling the head of a twisty light? Why is there no knurling to help grip for one hand turning the CR123 version? It requires a very good grip with two hands to turn or a death grip with one. If it is wet, forget about it... (I tried)
My Amilite is the same way, but the Jet turns much harder and the Neo has grooves at least - and I was able to cut a thin strip off a bicycle inner tube (road bike, not mountain bike) to fit patially in a bezel groove to get good grip. Same problem as my Jillite too, and Peak Matterhorn. No wonder we like clickies. The 123 is only slightly shorter than my L1P with Nekomane CR123 body and Fenix clicky, so the Fenix/Nekomane may still win out as occasional EDC when I need a small bright light. Especially when I do the momentary mod to the switch. 
Nekomane! please make a HA-natural CR123 and/or CR2 body for this that fits RCR123!! 

The CR123 version is brighter than my Amilite Neo T3 (on a RCR123 3.0V with 20 minutes use on it) and looks a tiny bit brighter than my FF2 POP2 with reflector, but that may be because my FireFly has a reflector that gives it a wider more even spot than the Jet1. AA version is a little brighter than the L1P on lithium. Clicky is definitely harder than the L1P/L2P's I have.

Blue glow paint needs a fair amount of light to activate, and only glows for about 15-20 minutes. Seems good for novelty only. The trituim is way better if you need that, but I didn't want to spend the $$.

Overall a nice bright light. Quality lanyard and extra button covers are a nice touch though lanyard is not a color I like. I am using my Amilite Lanyard though, since it looks better because the green matches the HA natural. Tail standing the AA version is precarious.

I don't see much reason to get one of these if you already have a Fenix L1P but if you get the 123 body or use 14500 Li-Ion, then this light comes alive with brightness. When the 2-stage momentary switch (sweet!) comes out, I'm going to HAVE to get a 14500 because that will be an awesome setup. Just about everything we have all been asking for, just a rare battery to get the most out of it. If Nekomane (or somebody else - Emillion...) makes a RCR123 body that uses the 2-stage switch momentary tail, then I may have an excuse to stop buying lights.

Good job Emilion and Jetbeam. 

<update> Just tried a set of CR123s in both Amilite Neo and Jet-1 CR123. Same relative result as with Li-Ion. The center spot of the Jet-1 is brighter, but it has more rapid drop off to spill. The Neo has more 'corona' I think FLR calls it, with more smooth drop off to spill resulting in a wider, but dimmer spot. I like the Neo type better, but give credit to the brighter Jet that will be more useable at distance. Lit up my yard tonight like all get out.
My threads are a little gritty, but not so much that I would call it a big problem. I think they just need cleaning out.*hope*?
I put a section of inner tube on the bezel and it is much easier to one-hand twist, though not as pretty.


----------



## chanamasala (May 11, 2006)

Blindasabat said:


> Nekomane! please make a HA-natural CR123 and/or CR2 body for this that fits RCR123!!



I second that. Maybe we should all buy him one if he would then make it. $5 a piece. Need what about 12 people?


----------



## FlashMike (May 11, 2006)

My unprotected RCR123's fit the current 123 tube. Protected cells are a slightly larger diameter and do not fit. Cheap solution: Buy a couple unprotected RCR123's


----------



## jsr (May 11, 2006)

sigh...still no light. I'm starting to get worried since mine was one of the first that shipped.


----------



## david-me (May 11, 2006)

jsr said:


> sigh...still no light. I'm starting to get worried since mine was one of the first that shipped.


 

im in the same boat. i've been worried for days


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## luxlunatic (May 11, 2006)

jsr- I am there too, long wait for us so-cal folks.


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## FlashMike (May 11, 2006)

For what it is worth, I received my light in So Cal on Tuesday. I was somewhere around #60 in the original list and my light included tritium (If that made a difference).


----------



## Freedom1955 (May 11, 2006)

Received my Jet-1 today #074. Man this sucker is bright :rock: when running AW's protected 14500 750mAh in AA and the RCR123A's. 
Gotta love the size of the 123 tube. 
Now the wait for the 2 stage switch.


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## jsr (May 11, 2006)

Well, knowing others in socal haven't received them either provides a bit of relief (hoping it's not lost or something)...of course, I wish we'd all have received them already (don't want to imply that I'm glad others didn't get theirs). I have some other stuff with my order too, so it's not just the Jet1 I'm worried about and am anxious to see. Too bad we don't get a tracking number. I think I need to pay more attention to work...all this waiting for my Jet1 is distracting.

Flashmike - I was #15, no trit, just green and blue glowpaint...my order was in the first shipment batch listed.


----------



## luxlunatic (May 11, 2006)

I was #37 on the list, green trits and blue trits, mailman just stopped a few minutes ago, no Jetbeam.


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## Planterz (May 11, 2006)

He got the blue tritium vials in last, so those of us (myself included) are probably the last one the list.


----------



## nakahoshi (May 11, 2006)

I sent in my beloved jetbeam BACK to emilion yesterday. Im sure it will come back sooner then a light at surefire would. hope he fixes it.
-bobby


----------



## cheapo (May 11, 2006)

frisco said:


> You may be outta luck ..... was it this light or another I was reading about? If I remember correctly (happens sometimes) This first batch of JetBeams were gonna be Tbin and later retail versions gonna be a lessor grade LED ????
> 
> frisco



gee, that would be very unfortunate. I hope that is not the case.

-David


----------



## ernsanada (May 11, 2006)

Top To Bottom, Jet-1, Lion Cub, McLux PD, Chameleon, Q-III, Ranier.
All lights using Protected RCR123's.







Left, Ranier Right, Q-III at 8"






Left, Jet-1 Right, Lion Cub at 8"






Left, McLux PD Right, Chameleon at 8"


----------



## cheapo (May 11, 2006)

NICE PICS! which seems to throw better.. the jet or the lioncub?

-David


----------



## ernsanada (May 11, 2006)

cheapo said:


> NICE PICS! which seems to throw better.. the jet or the lioncub?
> 
> -David



It looks to me the Chameleon out throws the Jet-1

Left, Jet-1 Right, Chameleon at 108"






I changed out the stock reflector in the Lion Cub to a McR20. The Jet-1 edges out the Lion Cub.

Left, Jet-1 Right, Lion Cub at 108"


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## frisco (May 11, 2006)

What protected RCR123 did you get to fit the JetBeam?

frisco


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## ernsanada (May 11, 2006)

The Protected RCR123 fits very tight. 

I have to use a pick, L shaped to get it out.

The pick fits inside the + side of the battery. There are 4 openings shaped like a + on the positive side of the battery.


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## gb6491 (May 12, 2006)

ahchoo said:


> Just got it today:
> 
> The good :
> 
> ...


I agree totally. Output with a CR123 and 2AA is much better than my QIII fed with an RCR123.

I like the color of the finish, but that's about it. 
The anodizing on mine is badly done; light/dark spots, streaked in areas, pitting on the AA tube and 2AA extension. This really detracts from the overall impression of the light's quality. Hopefully, the production runs will be done by someone who knows how to anodize properly. 

Some photos and beam shots: http://gbrannon.bizhat.com/jet.htm 

Regards,
Greg


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## Freedom1955 (May 12, 2006)

ernsanada said:


> The Protected RCR123 fits very tight.
> 
> I have to use a pick, L shaped to get it out.
> 
> The pick fits inside the + side of the battery. There are 4 openings shaped like a + on the positive side of the battery.


 
I used the pick method too and decided there had to be a better way. I have 4 protected RCR123A's and two of of the 4 I had no problem getting them out just by shaking the tube a little. The other two I took a little 1000 grit sandpaper and sanded the high spots on the side of the battery just enough so they slip out easily now.


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## glire (May 12, 2006)

Grrr... My protected LIR123 don't fit


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## jsr (May 12, 2006)

I got mine!...I got mine!...I got mine!...I got mine!...I got mine!...ok, I'm a bit excited! S/N #54.

Physical notes - I purchased a AA Jet1 + CR123 tube. My CR123 tube came with no o-rings (already contacted Emilion on this). So, currently, it's very easy to twist, but has no water resistance. I did notice the marks on the finish on the head that were seemingly used as holding points for the HA. Not too much of a biggy, but noticable (it was also the first thing my fiance noticed). The finish is very nice, I love the color! The HA is a bit thin around certain edges such as the edge of the AA tailcap that faces the battery tube. I've got a few small nicks here and there. The area around the glow paint slits on my AA tube has this film or something on both sides of all 3 slits...almost looks like a thin film of glue residue or maybe glow paint residue that was cleaned off, but not completely (it doesn't glow). You only see it if you look closely and usually at an angle where it reflects light different (like when you're looking for the haze after applying a thin coat of wax on your car). The LED is ever so slightly off-center, but it doesn't affect the beam at all. The switch is a bit difficult to thread on (hard to align and catch the first thread). Threads are a bit rough, so I need to find some lubricant (I have WD-40 and White Silicone Grease...maybe those will work ok). The 123A tube is amazingly light...feels like plastic. The inside of both tubes has strange discolorations here and there...almost looks like a camo theme. Glowpaint, as others mentioned, isn't very useful as it's difficult to charge. It won't even charge with most of my lights pointed at it. It seems to charge best with my modded Q3 blasting at it, but that only charges 1 slit at a time.

Usage notes - I don't find the switch stiff at all...that might be because of the way I hold it (pushed forward in my hand enough that I use my thumb tip to push the button...got used to doing this for my recessed switch on my Q3). My fiance, however, did have a hard time pushing the switch as she was trying to use the flat of her thumb. Beam is very white! The transition from the hotspot to the spill isn't perfectly smooth (I wouldn't call it artifacts, but not smooth). Not an issue in real world use. When I first got it, I tried fitting my protected R123A in and no luck. I don't even see it fitting if I sanded the sides of the cells a bit. That's pretty disappointing to me as I was planning to use the 123A tube primarily and keep the AA tube as backup and I really wanted to use R123As. I don't want to use unprotected as my fiance will also be using the Jet1 and she's not very good at remembering the minute catches of usage. I also personally don't want to use unprotected cells. My 14500s fit perfectly tho in the AA tube and damn is it bright! Slightly (ever so slightly) brighter than my Q3 which is running a TWOH off a 3.6V R123A (yes, it's overdriven, but only to about 920-950mA and I've got a heat sink on it). On an alkaline AA, it's slightly brighter than my TM-313X with a QV1J Lux1 DD off a 3.7V 14500. Size-wise, I don't think I have a problem carrying the 123A-tube version on my keychain.

Overall impression - very nice light and I love the design/aesthetics of both the AA and 123A tubes, the great color of the finish (exactly the color I was hoping for), the great beam and output, and the versatility of running most any battery (except my R123As). Right now, I'm carrying the 123A version (sans o-rings, not by choice) with a BS CR123A. My fiance has hinted wanting to take it away from me, so I may be looking for a 123A Jet1 if someone's looking to sell theirs.

Request - if someone has a Fenix L2P+123A tube, I'd love to see a pic comparing the size of the Jet1 to the L2P-123A.

I've still got a couple of more things coming from Emilion, so I'm still anxious for more stuff!


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## Somy Nex (May 13, 2006)

I just got mine too and i'm very impressed.

i have the same scratchiness, and some shavings on both ends of the threads, but turns out to be mostly cosmetic after cleaning them off, and I'mnot too worried about this, as I got them on some of my more expensive lights too. 

Have some minor 'imperfections' in the HAIII finish, not of any missing HA, but imagine if there was a speck of dust and you painted over it, type of blemish. i tested the HAIII with a sharp stainless steel nail clipper, and can verify that the HAIII is very tough indeed. i used up to about slightly above moderate force and it still did not scratch through the HA around one of the body facets or that around the tailcap. YMMV though, and of course HA is good for resisting scratches / slashes, but always less robust around the edges and such, and that the metal underneath is still relatively soft and vulnerable to bludgeoning and piercing attacks and such. ok. i think my computer nerd RPG background is beginning to show a bit here =P

beam is very nice and very white and looks like a WO to me. from casual glance in a dark room during the day, it rivals my chameleon and pretty much replicates Ernsanada's shots (as it should as the first few minutes on li-on are on direct drive on the Jetbeam, as verified by the various graphs out there). i got two green glows and a blue tritium, but it's too bright to check that out at this moment.

finally the clicky is fine for me. i also push in with the tip of my thumb and it's got more resistance than some others, but is actually less stiff than my cousin's E2D on my desk. but then again when we had a "barely any feedback" on Waion's Triton, people complained (this would be described as "buttery smooth on a surefire by the way). now we have a "stiffy"  on the Jetbeam, and people complain (this would probably be described as "robust" on a well-regarded light). And we have Fenix in the middle and people also complain. I think it's more a perception thing than anything else. the proof will be in how these switches all hold up in the long run, and we know that these problems exist for every manufacturer.


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## blindsided (May 13, 2006)

Ernsanada...

you're making me jealous with that beautiful little collection you've got there.


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## cheapo (May 13, 2006)

can the head go all the way down with a r123 in it?

-David


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## ernsanada (May 13, 2006)

cheapo said:


> can the head go all the way down with a r123 in it?
> 
> -David



Yes the head screws all the way down with the R123 in it.


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## ernsanada (May 13, 2006)

JetBeam Jet-1 CR123


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## cheapo (May 13, 2006)

those pics are awsome! Which seems to throw further, the raineer or the Jet 1 both with fully charged r123s, and by how large of a margin?

-david


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## ernsanada (May 13, 2006)

cheapo said:


> those pics are awsome! Which seems to throw further, the raineer or the Jet 1 both with fully charged r123s, and by how large of a margin?
> 
> -david



Right off the charger.

Left Jet-1 Right, Ranier at 108"






To my naked eye the Jet-1 has the edge. The tint of the Jet-1 is much whiter. The Ranier has a very slight green tint to it's beam.


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## cheapo (May 13, 2006)

wow. Thanks a bunch for the beamshots! Great job. 

-David


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## weedle256 (May 14, 2006)

Ok so I got mine the other day...

serial #15, R123 with blue glow paint.

only took two trips to the post office  

The only thing not already mentioned is that the glow paint does not fully fill one of the troughs. Not a big deal...

Two things... this is one bright light and it sure gets hot :candle: 

Awsome job Emilion :goodjob:


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## jsr (May 14, 2006)

Update on my impressions - while using the AA tube, I noticed the brightness go up a bit and then back to normal (where it started). I looked at the end of the AA tube that contacts the tailcap and noticed it has a few "things" on it, so I sanded it with some sand paper. I think I shouldn't have done that because now, I need to tighten it more on the tailcap now...quite tight, otherwise it won't make contact with the tailcap and switch. Seems tolerances are quite tight. I lightly sanded the 123A tube also, but after seeing the result on the AA tube, I decided not to do any further sanding. Curently, I'm using the AA tube mostly even tho I intended to use the 123A tube mostly, but I'll wait till the o-rings arrive for the 123A tube.
There's a slight darker "hole" in the beam...not in the direct center of the hotspot, but closer to the edge of the hotspot. Not sure what this is due to.
While attaching a metallic clip to the AA tube, I chipped off some HA at the edge where the attachment hole is. This is my first HA light so I guess HA still quite sensitive on edges.
Still a great light!


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## Kershaw (May 14, 2006)

Got my Jet 1 123 yesterday and all i can say is wow. The jet one beats the pants off my SF G2 and has a longer runtime and only uses 1 battery. Id say mine is about 65-70 lumens using 1 titanium 123. Also very white and not harsh 2 my eyes. This is 1 hell of a light, thanks emilion 4 making it!


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## LowBat (May 14, 2006)

weedle256 said:


> Ok so I got mine the other day...
> 
> serial #15, R123 with blue glow paint.
> 
> ...


weedle, how are those new RCR123s working out with this light? Are the heat issues a serious problem?


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## cheapo (May 14, 2006)

how is the spill on this light?

-David


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## Kershaw (May 14, 2006)

I wish i had my fenix 2 compare the spill 2 it but i lost it and i havent set up my new camera 2 take pics yet. But i will say 1 thing this light gets HOT! Even w/gloves on last night i could still feel the heat from the bezel. And after 30 minutes it was still noticebly brighter then my inova T2. So id say the regulation on this light is pretty solid. Sure there r sum problems w/the finish on a lot of them but seeing that pefectly white super bright beam makes u forget about them. I would seriously reccomed this light as an edc 2 anyone who coudnt affored an hds but wants hds brightness and hds size.


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## jsr (May 15, 2006)

Used my Jet1 AA running off a 14500 last night for about 15-20min showing my bro-in-law something on my roof. I've never used it till then for that long of a continuous period. It always got warm before, but never really hot to me. But, toward the end of the 20min or so session, it definitely got hot enough to be a bit uncomfortable to hold.

David - there is a good amount of spill light...slightly less bright spill when compared to my Q3, but my Q3 is likely putting out around 55-60lms (I'd estimate the Jet1 to be around 65lms, give or take some). Outdoors, the spill is enough to light up what's around the hotspot for easy identification.


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## cheapo (May 15, 2006)

I assume you modded your Q3 right?

-David


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## nightrider (May 15, 2006)

Got a chance to use my Jetbeam CR123 for a while on Saturday, as I was having to replace a dishwasher:sigh: It was definitely great to have such a bright light when working under the sink and dishwasher. I admit this was not a fun way to test out the JetBeam, but it certainly earned its keep. Only problem is that it (like other similar lights) tend to roll when laid down.

Below is a photo of my AA tube (in blue glow) and CR123 tube on the Jetbeam (in green glow). The blue glow is not nearly as bright as it appears in the picture, but after charging them both up with another bright light, I quickly shot this low-light picture.


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## nightrider (May 15, 2006)

Just did some beam shots comparing the lights below. I wanted to see how well the JetBeam compared to some of my other similar-sized lights at a 50 foot throw.

Contenders Left to right: Task Force 1w 3xAAA, Dorcy Super 1w CR123, JetBeam CR123, and Fenix L1P.
Here are the lights:






Here are the beam shots:
F2.8 - 1/4 sec (ISO 400) exposure for all. White bucket at 25 feet. Fence at 50ft.






Links to larger images of each shot (if you're interested):
Fenix L1P
TaskForce AAA
Dorcy Super 1w
JetBeam CR123

Hope you find this useful. After I did this, I remembered that I forgot to shoot the JetBeam with the AA body! Argggh! The mosquitos were starting to bite... I'm in Florida.


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## Somy Nex (May 15, 2006)

nightrider said:


> Just did some beam shots comparing the lights below. I wanted to see how well the JetBeam compared to some of my other similar-sized lights at a 50 foot throw.
> 
> Here are the beam shots:
> F2.8 - 1/4 sec (ISO 400) exposure for all. White bucket at 25 feet. Fence at 50ft.
> ...



nice beamshots, and very useful--i always appreciate folks who are able and take the time to do these. :thumbsup:


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## srvctec (May 15, 2006)

nightrider said:


> Just did some beam shots comparing the lights below. I wanted to see how well the JetBeam compared to some of my other similar-sized lights at a 50 foot throw.
> 
> Contenders Left to right: Task Force 1w 3xAAA, Dorcy Super 1w CR123, JetBeam CR123, and Fenix L1P.
> 
> ...



Awesome beamshots!!:kewlpics:

I'm not particularly fond of beamshots on a white wall- these aren't much good to me other than to see beam shape. Shots like yours are what mean something to me- real world.

All people taking beamshots should model theirs after something like yours and include them with the white wall shots- then we would have something.


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## gb6491 (May 15, 2006)

cheapo said:


> how is the spill on this light?
> 
> -David


 I'd put it close to the QIII in regards to spill, but the Jet Beam on 123 or 2AA is quite a bit brighter than my stock QIII (even on R123). There are some outdoors beam shots here: http://gbrannon.bizhat.com/jet.htm
Regards,
Greg


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## nightrider (May 16, 2006)

Thanks for the kind words Somy Nex and srvctec. It's fun to do the outdoor beam shots, although my neighbors might think I'm a little odd (maybe they can't see me in the backyard). 

One thing you might notice is that not only does the JetBeam have the biggest, brightest hotspot on the fence at 50ft, it also illuminates the playhouse to the right and the pool to the left (both relatively close to the camera). That thing puts out a lotta light!


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## srvctec (May 16, 2006)

nightrider said:


> Thanks for the kind words Somy Nex and srvctec. It's fun to do the outdoor beam shots, although my neighbors might think I'm a little odd (maybe they can't see me in the backyard).
> 
> One thing you might notice is that not only does the JetBeam have the biggest, brightest hotspot on the fence at 50ft, it also illuminates the playhouse to the right and the pool to the left (both relatively close to the camera). That thing puts out a lotta light!



Yup, noticed it- that thing blew the others away. I am looking forward to a beamshot with your AA tube. Hopefully you have a 14500 for it so I can see how that compares to the 123. I just have an AA Jet-1 and would like the comparison. Thanks for all of the hard work!


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## frisco (May 16, 2006)

Anyone know if AW's protected 14500 fits in the JetBeam ????

TIA

frisco


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## frisco (May 16, 2006)

I'm Looking to buy a JetBeam AA (prefer no Tritium) if you have one or two for sale please let me know (paypal ready).

Mod if you don't like this post here, please feel free to remove it. I posted it in the buy/sell section with no replies..... figured more JetBeamers here.

frisco


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## LEDcandle (May 16, 2006)

Yes they do but some say they have a little problem with the length and only get it to work if they insert it from the bezel side and not tailcap side.

Your mileage may vary, depending on how well your light makes contact. My older version AW 14500 works fine, needs a little rotation to find the best fit due to the protective strip on the side of the batt.


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## jsr (May 16, 2006)

David - yes, my Q3 is modded with a TWOH DD off a R123A (I know, most people think it will fry it...it drives about 900-950mA to the LED and has a heatsink on it). Very bright, but the Jet1 is still brighter on a 14500.

frisco - my 14500s from Mark at e-lectronics.net work fine in my Jet1 AA tube. I haven't had to fiddle too much with which end to tighten first. My only issue occured after I sanded the end of the tube a bit as suggested by others, but that resulted in forcing me to have to tighten the tailcap on much more.


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## LED BriCK (May 16, 2006)

LEDcandle said:


> Yes they do but some say they have a little problem with the length and only get it to work if they insert it from the bezel side and not tailcap side.


 
Yeah, I think that was me. I got 2 protected 14500s from AW- the first one I tried seemed to have the fit issue, but the second seems to work fine. I've also gotten into the habit of pressing in on it a little harder after inserting it, to compress the bezel spring better. No problems since!


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## dca2 (May 16, 2006)

I have 2 of AW's protected 14500's. They are a tight fit, but both work very well.


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## Tronic (May 16, 2006)

frisco said:


> What protected RCR123 did you get to fit the JetBeam?
> 
> frisco


Emilions Protected 16340 Cells dont fit. Because they are too long.

My protected RCR123 3.0V from e-electronics fit very well.


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## cheapo (May 16, 2006)

well, lighthounds cells better fit, because that probably who i am buying it from. Last thing i want to do is to turn the tailcap really hard just to get it all the way down.

-David


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## cryhavok (May 17, 2006)

I posted some pictures and impressions in the dealers thread:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/108505&page=30&pp=30

specifically post 877 & 879


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## glire (May 18, 2006)

(Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting)

I thought I had a bad finish on my JetBeams, but I should consider myself lucky in the end when seeing what others recieved. The bad finish is endemic and inacceptable.

Nonetheless, Optic and electronic design and work is amazing and the result is beyond what we may have expected.

In the end, I'm not sure if we had to congrat or blame Emilion. Well, I mean the factory behind, but Emil does the QC. Maybe not the best job to do...


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## jsr (May 18, 2006)

During the past week of owning my Jet1, I've noticed more HA blemishes than before. They look like either small debris HA'd over, or small chips HA'd over. They don't bother me much, but I did notice them as I awkwardly admired my Jet1 for 20 minutes straight while my fiance awkwardly looked at me thinking how awkward I am.
Lately, my Jet1 doesn't seem to be much brighter than my modded Q3. At first, I did (at least I thought I did) see a difference in brightness, especially in the spot. After multiple tests using ceiling bounce, I'm not sure now...they seam to produce almost the same total output. Maybe I got a not so bright one? The tints may also play a factor...the Jet1 is cooler compared to my TWOH-Q3. Considering's it's relative brightness to my Q3, I estimate my Jet1 to be more around 55lms instead of the >70lms others are reporting. My doubt my Q3 is close to 70lms, even when overdriving a TWOH at 900-950mA. It still has a plastic lens too.


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## LEDcandle (May 18, 2006)

jsr said:


> During the past week of owning my Jet1, I've noticed more HA blemishes than before. They look like either small debris HA'd over, or small chips HA'd over. They don't bother me much, but I did notice them as I awkwardly admired my Jet1 for 20 minutes straight while my fiance awkwardly looked at me thinking how awkward I am.
> Lately, my Jet1 doesn't seem to be much brighter than my modded Q3. At first, I did (at least I thought I did) see a difference in brightness, especially in the spot. After multiple tests using ceiling bounce, I'm not sure now...they seam to produce almost the same total output. Maybe I got a not so bright one? The tints may also play a factor...the Jet1 is cooler compared to my TWOH-Q3. Considering's it's relative brightness to my Q3, I estimate my Jet1 to be more around 55lms instead of the >70lms others are reporting. My doubt my Q3 is close to 70lms, even when overdriving a TWOH at 900-950mA. It still has a plastic lens too.



This is using a 14500? Are the contacts all in order? Maybe the light is having one of those intermittent contact problems due to the improper sanding of the exposed area?

If you have a DMM, the draw from mine for comparison is more than 1A. A T-bin Lux III overdriven at 1A+ should be 90+ lumens, give or take efficiency and other factors. (Figures are from McGizmo's Integrating Sphere test)


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## jsr (May 18, 2006)

LEDCandle - yes, this is from running off a 14500. I did do the sanding at the AA tube end, I mentioned this in an earlier post, that seem to have done more bad than good as now I have to tighten the tailcap quite a bit tighter for it to make contact. It's not considerably dimmer than it used to be, but when I first got it, I thought "yeah, it's brighter than my Q3", but now it seems almost equal. Even if the LED does produce 90+ lumens, the losses from reflector and lens (it's supposed to be AR-coated Sapphire which I think McGizmo said looses an extra 12-15% or so compared to a UCL) can easily take away 30-40% of the LED's actual output. I'm not saying it's not bright, it's very bright, but doesn't seem to pull away from my Q3 as I once thought it did. My Q3 runs a TWOH off a R123A...current is close to 1A, but the lens is still plastic, so I estimate it makes about 55lms out the front (25lms for a stock Q3 on primary, about 35-40lms for stock Q3 on R123A, so change to TWOH and overdrive, probably about 55lms). The Jet1 seems very close to this, so I don't think mine is >70lms...maybe 60s at most. I'm looking forward to Doug's test results of the Jet1 (and the new Nuwai X1 and X3).


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## cheapo (May 18, 2006)

which 14500s did you use?

-David


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## jsr (May 18, 2006)

I have 14500s from e-lectronics.net. I doubt it's the battery as I use these in another light and performance has not changed in my other light.


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## cheapo (May 18, 2006)

hmm.... if those arent 750mah, that'll explain why it isnt 76 lumens.

-David


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## jsr (May 18, 2006)

Battery capacity doesn't have anything to do with current to the LED as long as the internal resistance is the same. Battery capacity tells you how long the cell can supply a specific current (e.g. 1000mAh will supply 500mA for 2hr).


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## cheapo (May 18, 2006)

thanks... i really dont know much about batteries.

-David


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## Walt175 (May 18, 2006)

For anyone who would like to run their Jet at higher output, but don't have 14500s, get a Duracell CRV3 and take it apart. You'll get 2 AA sized batteries that are 3v each. Pop it in and WOW! NICE increase in output! I have NO idea of runtime, and it could get expensive in the long run, but if you want to see what the Jet is capable of before investing in 14500s, give this a try! :twothumbs


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## glire (May 19, 2006)

Tronic said:


> Emilions Protected 16340 Cells dont fit. Because they are too long.
> 
> My protected RCR123 3.0V from e-electronics fit very well.


Do someone know if AW's protected 3.0V fit ? (AW's 3.7V don't)


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## quantile (May 19, 2006)

glire said:


> Do someone know if AW's protected 3.0V fit ? (AW's 3.7V don't)



The 3.0V Li-Ions I have (two from AW and two bought locally, all protected) do not fit. 

I use unprotected MP brand 3.7V R123s as a rechargable option in the Jet-I CR123 at the moment. After taking them out when the brightness dropped significantly they measured 2.8V and quickly recovered to about 3V.


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## HGB (May 19, 2006)

Hey guys,

I have to tell you that 3 of my protected AW's R123 fit perfectly into the RC123 tube, tightly but they do.

I have to rotate them to find the best position, but once I get it, they just go in effortlessly. They don't slide in, you have to help them by slightly moving them sideways. I didn't even have to take out the silver self-adhesive foil (with the printed stuff).

I don't need to use pliers to get them out either. Just a foward shaking motion with a very abrupt stop (let's say against the other hand), is good enough to get them out.

I previously did some extra super-fine filing/sanding to the inner lip of the tube, because I'd noticed that there was some microscopic bur, I guess as a consequence of sanding the anodized off from the top side of the tube.

Hope this helps .


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## gb6491 (May 19, 2006)

Tailcap and switch. 
One side of the switch is crimped to the spring and the other is folded over the top to contact the brass plug when screwed in.
The brass plug must be unscrewed to change rubber switch cover.









Regards,
Greg


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## kbog (May 20, 2006)

Mine came. I ordered the 123 tube with blue glow paint.

My light came with few finish marks to complain about. Perhaps some VERY minor marks here and there, but you would need to be a very picky person to have them spoil your impression of the light, which to my eyes is high quality.

The glow paint is a joke. It does not look blue ever. Not in the light, not in the dark...I have not spent time "charging" the paint them turning the lights out to see if I could see the glow. I just don't care enough. In fact, I almost was going to ask if I could skip the glow paint all together...maybe they read my mind.

The twist action on my light is smooth - not gritty like some others have written. It is tight though. One hand operation is too tough to be practical for me. Knurling the tube may help a bit, but I'm not convinced it would solve the problem entirely. Honestly, it was not a problem in my mind anyhow as I don't mind using both hands to turn the light on.

Getting to the light output...jeesh this light is bright. I was expecting the light to better than my L1P, but it is really an unfair comparison. This light make the L1p look like...blue glow paint...I have never had a very high output little light like this, so maybe my rookie eyes deceive me, but output is gigantic. Spill is excellent and it throws quite well too. My Inova T3 has a brighter hotspot, but this little light has a more usable beam in a room. In fact, it looks like more light overall than the T3 if you include the spill. Again though, I have no data to support this except my eyes. It easily lights up our swing set in the back yard from 60 feet away. It has a slightly purple tint to my eyes - about the same as the Fenix. My T3 is very white.

It is fine for my keychain and is my new EDC. After 3 days of carrying, it has a small chip in the HAIII near the lens. I suspect that the coating will not hold up well after a year...we shall see. 

I like this light a lot. I am temped to get the P1 for fun, but we shall see. Now I know why people will pay bucks for the little bright lights like the HDS and FF3 and the like. They are quite fun to play with. I would imagine that the adjustability of the other lights is even more fun...


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## Somy Nex (May 21, 2006)

Took a couple of shots of the Jetbeam last night. 

*Edit*: The corridor shots are taken at ISO64, f4.0, daylight white balance. shot at 4s, 2s, and 1s respectively.

The exercise bike was shot at ISO64, f4.0, daylight WB, and shot at 1s, 1/3s and 1/10s respectively =) 

On a fresh 14500, probably closest to the Peak CPF Special, though it doesn't throw as far, but is more floody. Very nice cool white beam. 

Here's a shot to show the green glowpaint & blue tritium. The glowpaint is very bright when freshly charged. It dims quickly, but as noted, does continue to glow dimly for at least 4 hours. The tritium of course gives off its radioactive goodness regardless =P




=====

Jet-I on 14500


 



=====

Fenix L1P (ok this isn't too fair, but I don't have a LxT)


 



=====

DSpeck FF3 Max (burst)


 



=====

Peak CPF Special (Rainier)


 



=====

Peak Caribbean


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## LITEmania (May 21, 2006)

exellent


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## hord (May 21, 2006)

Excellent Beam shots! I have yet to take a photo but I have been comparing the Golston 7w to the CR123 Jetbeam (both on primaries) and the jetbeam is only just beaten for output... but it is using half the batteries and about 1/3 the size! But will the golston win against a RCR123 in the Jetbeam???

Also FYI I received my AW protected cells in the post today. The RCR123's slide in by themselves (once the right orientation is found) to the CR123 tube... and produce awesome light levels... and heat! The 14500's are very much a 'push in' fit... very tight and you need to take the head & switch off the AA tube to push them back out... but they work fine once in! I am getting some other lathework done so I might get the AA tube skimmed slightly so that the 14500's slide in as well.

This torch just keeps getting better!!!

Cheers Harvey

P.S. since I have cleaned & lubed the CR-123 tube twice... I can turn it on/off very easily with one hand... smooth as butter actually!


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## cheapo (May 22, 2006)

[deleted]

-David


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## FlashMike (May 22, 2006)

cheapo said:


> just wondering, is the beam flawless on this light?


Somy Nex just posted a bunch of beamshots, including links to large versions. You can see the beam yourself. Many others have commented that they like the beam. What is the point of asking this question? What do you expect people to say? "Yes, the beam is completely and utterly without flaws - Every photon goes exactly where is is suppose to go".


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## srvctec (May 22, 2006)

It seams as though cheapo is posting just to be posting. There are about 50 posts from him about wanting a 2-stage and clip.

But then again, he's only 14- this may have something to do with it.


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## NewBie (May 22, 2006)

jsr said:


> Originally Posted by jsr
> During the past week of owning my Jet1, I've noticed more HA blemishes than before. They look like either small debris HA'd over, or small chips HA'd over. They don't bother me much, but I did notice them as I awkwardly admired my Jet1 for 20 minutes straight while my fiance awkwardly looked at me thinking how awkward I am.
> Lately, my Jet1 doesn't seem to be much brighter than my modded Q3. At first, I did (at least I thought I did) see a difference in brightness, especially in the spot. After multiple tests using ceiling bounce, I'm not sure now...they seam to produce almost the same total output. Maybe I got a not so bright one? The tints may also play a factor...the Jet1 is cooler compared to my TWOH-Q3. Considering's it's relative brightness to my Q3, I estimate my Jet1 to be more around 55lms instead of the >70lms others are reporting. My doubt my Q3 is close to 70lms, even when overdriving a TWOH at 900-950mA. It still has a plastic lens too.





LEDcandle said:


> This is using a 14500? Are the contacts all in order? Maybe the light is having one of those intermittent contact problems due to the improper sanding of the exposed area?
> 
> If you have a DMM, the draw from mine for comparison is more than 1A. A T-bin Lux III overdriven at 1A+ should be 90+ lumens, give or take efficiency and other factors. (Figures are from McGizmo's Integrating Sphere test)




Wasn't Don's testing without the reflector and lens?

As such, that 90 lumens drops into the 60 lumen range, putting it right in line with jsr's 55 lumen thoughts.

We will know alot more, after Quickbeam does his review.


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## g36pilot (May 22, 2006)

Others have posted good technical reviews so I'll just add my impressions:

This is a great light! Beam quality and output are excellent.

The HAIII finish on my five pieces is without flaw. At Harvey's recommendation I spent the time cleaning the threads with an old toothbrush, rag, and alcohol then re-lubing. 

In the basic configuration 1AA it's more than adequate for an above average EDC even with the lowly alkaline battery. It's compact (disappears in the pants pocket) and has adequate lumen output.

With the AA extender tube (2AA) it's an outstanding light. Again even with alki's.

The CR123 configuration was down right excellent. And such a compact package! Can't wait to try it with a 3.7v R123.

I like the battery versatility of this system. Basically if it'll fit the tube it'll power the light. When the two stage switch is available this'll be a good EDC for me. 

My primary EDC will be the two stage Jet-I in 1AA configuration powered by the 14500 that I'm about to acquire. It'll be backed up with whatever AA refill I have handy.




Emil!


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## cheapo (May 22, 2006)

[deleted]


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## Marlite (May 22, 2006)

Apologies for a bad post was supposed to be funny and on rereading and noticing support I regret the post. 

Sincerely regret it, got carried away!

Marlite


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## cheapo (May 22, 2006)

[deleted]


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## onthebeam (May 22, 2006)

Right on, David. Don't let these guys get you down. Sixteen or sixty doesn't matter to me. Bob Hope once told me that I was the youngest photographer he'd ever seen, but it was the pictures that mattered and people thought they were pretty well done. Your comments here show your passion for your hobby and nobody should try to take that away from you.


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## cheapo (May 22, 2006)

Thanks. I think we should put this behind us though ok? 

-David


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## g36pilot (May 22, 2006)

No worries David. Ignore the negative posts and the thread usually returns to the original topic.


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## nightrider (May 22, 2006)

Somy Nex said:


> Took a couple of shots of the Jetbeam last night.
> 
> On a fresh 14500, probably closest to the Peak CPF Special, though it doesn't throw as far, but is more floody. Very nice cool white beam.
> 
> ...


Nice beamshots! But I'm not clear on the 3 variations though. Maybe I missed something. Are they diff exposures or lapsed time ( I know it's not a 3-stage light!) Wish it was!


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## Somy Nex (May 22, 2006)

nightrider said:


> Nice beamshots! But I'm not clear on the 3 variations though. Maybe I missed something. Are they diff exposures or lapsed time ( I know it's not a 3-stage light!) Wish it was!



Hi 

I'm sorry i forgot to state, but they are different exposures 

the corridor shots at left have the camera set to ISO64, "Daylight" white balance, f4.0, and taken at 4s, 2s, and 1s respectively.

the exercise bike shots at right are shot at f4.0, ISO 64, Daylight balance, at 1s, 1/3s, and 1/10s.

i use these standard exposures across the board for a wide range of lights, so these certainly do help some in comparing brightnesses and such at different levels =)

hope this helps, thanks for looking =)


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## hord (May 22, 2006)

QUICK UPDATE: Well the Jetbeam on RC123's is certainly a lot brighter and hotter than on primaries! But the Golston still has the edge ever so slightly in both spill and throw... but the beam looks purple compared to the ultra white beam on the Jet!

Also the following isn't meant as a flame/encouragement/argument... merely to state the true facts about Davids posts. I am just a fence sitter on this one... but I think we should all be very excited about the jetbeam instead!

The number of Posts made by David in the three main Jetbeam discussions:

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95

Of those 95 only 13 mention a clip and 25 of them mention the 2 stage clicky.

Again this is JUST the raw numbers to close the argument (hopefully!)

Now back to the Jetbeam... how much does this thing rock!!!:rock:


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## cheapo (May 22, 2006)

I have only been hanging around these posts so that i will know when the new model comes out. I have been repetetive, but i could have sworn i suggested to let it go.

-David


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## Marlite (May 22, 2006)

dude, wtf?? No i am not the 12 year old. I dont even mention the 2 stage switch very often. Just drop it. Let it go. People are supposed to be reviewing lights, and you guys are going on with personal problems. If it doesnt have to do with a light, then dont post... fair enough?

-David[/QUOTE]

David sorry for the offending post, I have removed the post and apologised to all but, am apologising personally to you for being indiscreet. You can delete yours and then we'll have dropped it and let it go, or, do what you will. You're right it was not about lights. Fair enough! 

Regrets, Marlite


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## cheapo (May 22, 2006)

Marlite said:


> David sorry for the offending post, I have removed the post and apologised to all but, am apologising personally to you for being indiscreet. You can delete yours and then we'll have dropped it and let it go, or, do what you will. You're right it was not about lights. Fair enough!
> 
> Regrets, Marlite



no worries.

-David


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## FlashMike (May 23, 2006)

*Good news for all you 123 tube owners

*I purchased the 123 tube in addition to a Jet AA. When I tried to use the tube, it was so hard to tighten that I could not even get the light to turn on. After I cleaned and lubed the threads, I could get the light to turn on, but it was a very tight, two-hand effort to tighten.

Yesterday I was looking at the 123 tube and noticed a burr at the very top of the treads. I decided to attack the burr with some 600 grit Wet/Dry sandpaper (used dry). My goal was to smooth and perhaps slightly roll or chamfer the end of the tube. I was careful not to shorten the length, but I did about 5 minutes of sanding.

Here are the results:






Notice the nice, smooth roll at the top of the tube.The threads look rough because of the nylogel on them.

Now the light turns on easily with one hard, without any binding or tightness. Very nice!

(Edit: Yes, my O-Ring is missing. The one that arrived with the tube had a nick and soon broke. Does anyone know the correct size when looking for a replacement?)


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## nightrider (May 23, 2006)

I had the same issues with my 123 tube, but got them straightened out with a little work. I notice your o-ring is missing. My o-ring broke after a couple of days use. It was real tight. I could barely turn the light the last turn to get it to come on. Without the o-ring it turns on easily... of course it's not very waterproof now. I keep meaning to look for one of those skinny o-rings somewhere. It is a much thinner o-ring than is used on the AA tube or on the Fenix L1P.


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## jsr (May 24, 2006)

Yeah, the o-ring's tough to find. Mine came missing the o-ring, but Emilion shipped me an o-ring. W/o the o-ring, my twists fine, no probs, one-handed. With the o-ring, it's tough...near impossible single-handed, but ok two-handed. It doesn't feel stuck or binding. Did yours feel like it was binding even w/o the o-ring?


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## nightrider (May 24, 2006)

jsr said:


> Yeah, the o-ring's tough to find. Mine came missing the o-ring, but Emilion shipped me an o-ring. W/o the o-ring, my twists fine, no probs, one-handed. With the o-ring, it's tough...near impossible single-handed, but ok two-handed. It doesn't feel stuck or binding. Did yours feel like it was binding even w/o the o-ring?


No. Mine turns very easily w/o the o-ring. It was a little rough at first until I cleaned the threads at the end where the tube had been sanded. I can easily turn it on with one hand now...but I would like an o-ring to make it a little more waterproof.

Sounds like my 123 tube had the same thread problems as FlashMike's light. I was able to correct it, with a little work. My o-ring lasted about a day.

After a week or so with this light, the Jet-1/CR123 combo has become my favorite light. The AA tube probably wont see much use until the 2-stage clickie becomes available. BTW - I've just ordered a P1. We'll see how these lights compare.


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## jsr (May 25, 2006)

Just some info in case no one already mentioned it...I measured the current draw a couple of days ago...

CR123A - 1.05A (about the same draw as my Q3)
14500 - 1.73A!!! Much higher than I expected. My Q3 on a R123A only pulls about 1.05-1.1A.

The last couple of days, I've continued to compare the Jet1's output on a 14500 with my Q3 on a R123A. I don't know if the battery tube is just making better contact with the tailcap lately, maybe I'm unconsciously torquing the tailcap more, or my eyes changed or what, but I do notice a decent difference in output now between my Q3 and Jet1 both on Li-Ion cells. Eh, it's probably just because my brain if farting...it has a tendency to do that.


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## cheapo (May 25, 2006)

hmm, if it does 1.7A, i might just buy an extra one and replace the lux 3 with a lux5, that way i get a flood and a thow light. Maybe replacing it with a k2 emitter would be good too.

-David


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## frisco (May 30, 2006)

My meter says the JetBeam is 50% brighter than the Q3. Meter reading takin right at the glass. Both lights useing the same rCR123 battery.

frisco




jsr said:


> Just some info in case no one already mentioned it...I measured the current draw a couple of days ago...
> 
> CR123A - 1.05A (about the same draw as my Q3)
> 14500 - 1.73A!!! Much higher than I expected. My Q3 on a R123A only pulls about 1.05-1.1A.
> ...


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## jsr (May 30, 2006)

My Q3 runs a TWOH, so that might narrow down the difference in output that you measured.


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## GJW (Jun 1, 2006)

So am I the first one with a broken tritium tube?
 

I was in one of the first group shipped so I have had it a while.
As mentioned by others, my vial was NOT fully recessed but it was carried in my back pocket with my wallet, never with keys or coins.
Weird that it broke but there it was today when I pulled it out.

The recessed half of the vial is still in place complete with jaggedy glass edges. And inside you can still see the phosphorous powder.

:mecry:


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## FlashMike (Jun 1, 2006)

GJW,

Sorry to hear this. Was this a vial on a 123 tube or the AA tube?


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## GJW (Jun 1, 2006)

It was the AA tube.


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## HenryE (Jun 2, 2006)

This piece of Emilion's jewelry came from BeeSee today, and I'm really pleased. I'd say "delighted", but that's BeeSee's condition... This is a phenomenal design, and I congratulate those with the perspicacity to get in line from the start. 

I have the basic unit and the CR123 tube, both with glopoxy. The only feature that I'd like to see is a suitable miniclip. Has anyone solved that? I have no problem with the unit getting banged around and scratched up. After all, it's a tool.

Henry


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## Solstice (Jun 2, 2006)

The clip is to come built into the 2 stage switch whenever that comes around. This switch is also purported to be a "standard" clickie with momentary on! Needless to say, I'm anxious for it, as it will turn the light into my true EDC, but I understand that Emillion has plenty more important things to be worrying about currently, so I'm not going to start whining... or did I just do that?  .


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## dca2 (Jun 2, 2006)

Solstice said:


> ...so I'm not going to start whining... or did I just do that?  .


I do believe you are the first! :huh:


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## LITEmania (Jun 2, 2006)

Anyone tried T.I.C of Tadgear to JetBeam I-AA ?


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