# Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here



## Stainless (Aug 20, 2005)

There are a whole bunch of these things in the pipeline now. I thought it might be good to start a consolidated 
"First Impressions" thread, rather than to have the information spread out all over CPF.

For a GREAT review of the stainless steel version, please click here. 
(I did not want to hijack the thread by Cones.)

When you get you Fenix light, please post your impressions in this thread, where everyone can compare notes. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## koala (Aug 22, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

I don't think you are jacking Cones thread.

This thread is for the Fenix aluminium HAII and HAIII lights while Cones thread is for the discontinued stainless steel light.


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## IsaacHayes (Aug 22, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

Might want to change the title to Fenix* L1/L1P* 1st impressions..


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## Geologist (Aug 22, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

Aside from the HAIII, can anyone comapre the Fenix with say a QIII?


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## Haesslich (Aug 22, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

I'd say that'd be a bad idea, Geologist - the Q-III is a unknown-binned LuxIII using a reflector, so the beam color and type may be quite different from the Fenix L1P which uses an R-binned LuxI or just an unknown bin LuxI. Plus, if we're talking about the L1P, it has some sort of UCL camera lens in it, so that'll change the output slightly compared to the plastic Q-III lens.


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## Geologist (Aug 22, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

Agreed and understood. But what about build quality, etc? I am just trying to compare paying about the same amount for a Lux I light.


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## Kiessling (Aug 22, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

Haesslich ... I thought that is what a comparison is all about ... comparing lights with a similar "usage" and form factor to be able to judge the differences in certain aspects.
If the QIII uses different components to achieve its performance won't render a comparison useless, quite the contrary. 
IMHO /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
bernie


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## Stainless (Aug 22, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

[ QUOTE ]
*IsaacHayes said:*
Might want to change the title to Fenix* L1/L1P* 1st impressions.. 

[/ QUOTE ]

Done.

(I can't wait for the reports to start being posted!)


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## IsaacHayes (Aug 22, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

Geologist, IMO, get the Fenix, you can always get the QIII later. The Fenix seems to be as close as possible to perfect light for CPF'ers. It's select enough that I probably won't mod it. You get a nice R bin (L1P) haIII, AR lens, brightness and runtime close to a SL Jr Lux, and very small size that runs on just 1 common AA. You can always find an AA to steal from something.. The QIII you can always get later for sure, and of course mod it if you wanted...

The Fenix is unique because it's the first affordable luxeon single AA light out there, and it's got darn good features too. The SS version had nice machining, I'm sure the L1/L1P will too.

Stainless: I can't wait till I have mine! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## chrisse242 (Aug 22, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

[ QUOTE ]
*IsaacHayes said:*
The Fenix seems to be as close as possible to perfect light for CPF'ers. It's select enough that I probably won't mod it. 

[/ QUOTE ]

In fact it might be the perfect light for non-cpf'ers. We who know how bright an LED-light can be, will probably be somewhat disapointed. But if this light comes out close to the advertised specs it might very well be a minimag-killer for many. Once led-development has gone far enough that this light doesn't need select parts, the price can go further down. 

Chrisse


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## skr (Aug 22, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

If it meets the specs it could even be a Mag 2D killer /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.


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## IsaacHayes (Aug 22, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

Chrisse: I didn't say it would be the brightest. Sure you can slap a U binned luxIII and a 3.7volt li-ion... But for CPF'ers that want a light that runs on a normal AA with a luxeon, this is about as good as you can get without paying a ton for a TNC AA. (you could up the output with a UXOH though... but not many can get them...) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## Haesslich (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

[ QUOTE ]
*Kiessling said:*
Haesslich ... I thought that is what a comparison is all about ... comparing lights with a similar "usage" and form factor to be able to judge the differences in certain aspects.
If the QIII uses different components to achieve its performance won't render a comparison useless, quite the contrary. 
IMHO /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
bernie 

[/ QUOTE ]

Their usage may be similar, but it has to be tempered by the fact that a direct physical and technical comparison of the specs of the lights in question is going to be difficult and, in the end, not really mean all that much - the Q-III uses a LuxIII and a 3-3.6v battery and a polycarbonate lens, while the L1P is using a LuxI with a 1.5-1.7v battery and a UCL glass lens, with different-sized reflectors. 

Beam patterns, throw, and lighting levels are going to be the only things we can compare, so long as we keep the above differences in mind; the runtimes will vary a bit based on the batteries involved, and the LuxIII's supposed to handle heat better than a LuxI, while the Fenix L1P has a picked bin for a relatively uniform output and a better lens. 

As long as we remember those, we're good.


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## chrisse242 (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

[ QUOTE ]
*IsaacHayes said:*
Chrisse: I didn't say it would be the brightest. Sure you can slap a U binned luxIII and a 3.7volt li-ion... But for CPF'ers that want a light that runs on a normal AA with a luxeon, this is about as good as you can get without paying a ton for a TNC AA. (you could up the output with a UXOH though... but not many can get them...) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif 

[/ QUOTE ]

Sure, Sure, it's just that many cpf'ers are not that much in the market for a reasonable bright, inexpensive light that uses readily available batteries. Instead we go for "give me brightness, doens't matter if it needs 50$ worth of batteries for 10 min. runtime."
For myself, I agree. If this light delivers what it promises, it'll be great. Can't wait to get mine.

Chrisse


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## 2dim (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

Enter the 2.5 version...


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## Geologist (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

my initial question about comparing the light with a QIII (I already own a QIII) was not to compare the function of the lights but more that both lights cost around $30 and I was trying to have a cost reference/value for $.


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## Marc (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

Same here, I own a QIII (w/ r123 & dual switch) and I'm pleased with it (cost vs. brightness/runtime/size). I try to convince myself that I don't need an L1P and it's pretty hard to resist to jump in the GB. I'd like to see beamshots comparison of both QIII & L1P in order to make my mind. With that new 2.5 announcement, man it's hard to resist.


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## koala (Aug 24, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

Regarding the Fenix output,

I have a L1+ the beam pattern is _very_ close to Arc4+. If the reflector design doesn't change for the new aluminium lights, then I would expect it to be similiar to the L1+. 

The Q3 has orange peel reflector making the hotspot diffused.


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## LITEmania (Aug 24, 2005)

*Re: Fenix: 1st impressions - everyone please post*

Left : L1 (unknown 1watt), 1 AA Alkaline Fresh Energizer

Right : L1P(R*** 1watt), 1 AA Alkaline Fresh Energizer

1.5 Meter at Gray Wall


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## bhds (Sep 6, 2005)

Received my L1P 2.0 today. As I posted in the groupbuy thread- this light kicks---!

Some first impressions:

*Finish*-I cant remember if this is supposed to be black or grey. Cant really tell. The finish is more of a matte finish and not smooth and shiny typical of other hard ano lights that I have. No imperfections but it does look like it will scuff more easily.

*Switch*- nice and smooth and is flush so standing on its tail is possible. Its a reverse clickie but unless you use momentary on a lot you wont notice the difference.

*Beam*- nice and "white". Nice smooth hotspot with fairly decent sidespill. When its gets darker I will try to compare to some of my other lights. Something kind of interesting is the strong purple halo that surrounds the actual beam/sidespill. Its not noticeable unless you are closer than a foot from a white wall. 

*Reflector*- Very noticeable circular machining marks. Doesnt seem to affect the actual beam though. 4sevens said that this has been improved upon in version 2.5. Not a big deal to me. 
With the light off the reflector has a very noticeable purple "shimmer" at certain angles. The purple halo in the beam is probably a result of this. 


I have had the light on constant for the last 50 minutes with a fresh duracell coppertop. It is somewhat noticeably dimmer but is still putting a nice hotspot on a white wall from 6ft in a normal daylit room with the lights on.
For the price this is an incredible light! I'm glad I got more than 1. If you didnt get in on the groupbuy well..:nana:


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## Phredd (Sep 6, 2005)

*I got mine! (L1P v2.0)*



bhds said:


> - this light kicks---!



I agree with everything he said. My first impression was that 4sevens sent me the wrong light, because I thought it was supposed to be gray. He said it was dark gray and I suppose black is THE darkest of gray... I would call it a satin black, which I very much prefer to gloss.

The light feels robust, except maybe the plastic cover of the tail switch which feels thin - at least compared to Surefire and Arc. They include a spare cover, which is nice, though it makes me wonder if they expect it to fail. The ability to stand on end is a very nice feature.

The reflector has very thin, distinct ridges, but as bhds says, they don't affect the beam. I think the beam is perfect. Aside from the very hot center, the halo is very even and more focused than other lights I've used, like the Arc LS (which this is now replacing).

For me, this light is very close to perfect. It's just the right length for the hand and significantly thinner than the Arc LS, though an inch shorter would be nicer for the pocket. It's plenty bright and I'm very happy with the runtime for a AA. If it weren't for curiousity, I would trade the 2.5 I ordered for another 2.0. I hope the new beam isn't too much narrower.

I hope other CPFers find these first impressions useful.

Phredd


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 6, 2005)

*Re: I got mine! (L1P v2.0)*

Sounds good everything I hear. The HAIII is dyed black and not natural. That is why it's a flat black. The HAII black is shiny like maglites.


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## bhds (Sep 6, 2005)

2 hours 10 minutes. Output is still very useable. Good enough to poke around in my computer(which I did) or navigate in a dark house etc. I could envision this as a very nice edc light using a AA lithium with the ability to fall back to standard alkalines anytime anywhere. :devil:


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## redduck (Sep 6, 2005)

Ni-MH will give you a much flatter discharge and longer peak run time. See http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91435&page=2&pp=30

But my question is that is it really safe to run rechargables in this light. I hope David can give us an answer here.


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## Phredd (Sep 6, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P batteries*



redduck said:


> is it really safe to run rechargables in this light.



The "manual" specifically warns to use only alkaline and NiMH -- and especially not to use 3.6v lithium batteries.

Phredd


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## redduck (Sep 6, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P batteries*



Phredd said:


> The "manual" specifically warns to use only alkaline and NiMH -- and especially not to use 3.6v lithium batteries.
> 
> Phredd



If the manual says it's OK to use NiMH then all is good.


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## bhds (Sep 6, 2005)

The expense and hassle of rechargeables is not for me. 
It would take a long time to recoup the initial costs.


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## 4sevens (Sep 6, 2005)

redduck said:


> Ni-MH will give you a much flatter discharge and longer peak run time. See http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91435&page=2&pp=30
> 
> But my question is that is it really safe to run rechargables in this light. I hope David can give us an answer here.



It is absolutely safe to use nimh rechargables. Their voltage is lower than
alkalines. It is also save to use 1.5V AA Lithiums - commonly available
in your grocery store.

It is NOT save to use lithium-ion cells because their V is 3.6-4.2v
Neither is it save to use 3.0v lithium cells - but you don't have to
worry about that, those are so rare to find - I've only found them here on
CPF from disassembled crv2 packs (or whatever they're called)



bhds said:


> The expense and hassle of rechargeables is not for me.
> It would take a long time to recoup the initial costs.



True, but if you use your light like mad it quickly pays off.
I bought 8 of these energizer 2500mah's from samsclub for $15.
I broke even after a month  So I went back and bought 3 more packs 



hookoo said:


> Okay, I recieved mine today and want a 2.5 asl well. After this groupbuy how do I buy a another one?



If I may mention this early... jsburly.com will carry these soon. I think
he builds shipping into his prices so that will be nice.


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## redduck (Sep 6, 2005)

bhds said:


> The expense and hassle of rechargeables is not for me.
> It would take a long time to recoup the initial costs.



I already have a bunch of them so the initial expenses is not a problem. Your can buy a set of 4 AA, 2 AAA and the charger from Costco for $17. I use them in high drain devices such as my Sony short wave radio, and some of my daughter's toys. More importantly, NiMH will give you much flatter and longer peak run time, something like more than 2 hours at 80%.


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## Stainless (Sep 6, 2005)

Got mine today - one of the few NON-Premium lights ordered.

Looks good - nicely compact.
Threads ARE annodised - inner tail is NOT - all is GOOD.
Really cute pouch. (I LIKE pouches.)
Does solid tailstand- as advertised.
Minor negative - feels a bit slippery - front ridges could be deeper and further forward.

A little light that performs like a bigger light.
Approaching "perfection."


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## 2dim (Sep 6, 2005)

"Minor negative - feels a bit slippery - front ridges could be deeper and further forward."

I just wrap a few elastic bands around the barrel...


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## Stainless (Sep 6, 2005)

2dim said:


> "Minor negative - feels a bit slippery - front ridges could be deeper and further forward."
> 
> I just wrap a few elastic bands around the barrel...



Thanks for the idea... but then again I guess I could use the lanyard that was supplied. (Imagine "slap forehead" emoticon here.)


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## Trashman (Sep 7, 2005)

Wal-mart sells "Digital Concepts" brand of Nimh batteries. 4 batteries (2200mah)and the charger for less than $10. I've been using them and they seem to work well, although I don't have any other brand to use for comparison.


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## bhds (Sep 7, 2005)

Okay, okay. Quit with all the rechargeable stuff Any more and you guys might actually convince be to go and get some. 
Actually, I didnt realize that you could get set up that cheaply.


Lights been on for exactly 6 hours continuous now and its pretty dim compared to when I started. But its still bright enough to navigate a darkened house. In fact its about the level I have my aleph 2 low level set at. A little dimmer than my Arc AAA premium(new version) 

A couple of more observations:

The flat sides are the same diameter as the rest of the light. In other words It rolls off a flat surface pretty easily.

Since the diameter is uniform the length of the light, its fairly easily to confuse the front end from the back. I already put a big thumbprint on the lens.

For those that are anal about accidental discharges, you can lock it out by unscrewing the back end ever so slightly. It doesnt take much. Probably even less than whats required with a surefire l4 bezel. I can forsee some people reporting intermittent or flickering light when in actuality they dont have the backend screwed down all the way.

Time to change the battery in this baby and go and try to get some beamshots:wave:


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 7, 2005)

Ah man you guys are making me excited. I have to wait till mid-end of september before I get my 2.5! Sounds like just the light I've always wanted!


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## bhds (Sep 7, 2005)

some beamshots


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## LifeNRA (Sep 7, 2005)

bhds,

Very impressive beamshots. Looks really great. :goodjob:


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## redduck (Sep 7, 2005)

redduck said:


> Your can buy a set of 4 AA, 2 AAA and the charger from Costco for $17.




Correction: it comes with 6 AAs, 2 AAAs and a charger. Very good deal. It's 2100 mah for AAs though, and 759 mah for AAAs.


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## redduck (Sep 7, 2005)

Very nice beam shots bhds.


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## 2dim (Sep 7, 2005)

"For those that are anal about accidental discharges..."

Had that problem myself...until I discovered 'Pampers'!


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## Mr. Blue (Sep 7, 2005)

4sevens said:


> It is also save to use 1.5V AA Lithiums - commonly available
> in your grocery store.




even though they start out at about 1.7?


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## 4sevens (Sep 7, 2005)

Mr. Blue said:


> even though they start out at about 1.7?



Trust me it's fine. Underload they will easily go below 1.5v.


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## Haesslich (Sep 7, 2005)

Mr. Blue said:


> even though they start out at about 1.7?



Correction: The Energizer data sheet lists them as 1.5v, not 1.7v; I misquoted the figure. Still, as I noted earlier, the circuit in the Fenix is rated to handle anything from 0.9-1.7v (not 1.1-1.9), so you should be safe. I managed to mentally mix up the operating range with the voltage of the lithium batteries - you're still covered, however, so far as operating them goes.


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## Phredd (Sep 7, 2005)

*Comparison Shots*

I thought people might like to see the L1P v2.0 finish, color and tailcap compared to some other lights.

Here are the Arc LS (natural), Fenix L1P (satin black) and Peak AAA (gloss black):








Here are the tailcaps of the Surefire Aviator, Fenix L1P and Arc LSH-P:


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## bhds (Sep 7, 2005)

Nice picts phredd 


Put another thumbprint on the lens this morning. I think I might have to put a small split ring on it so that I can distinguish front from back.

Off topic for a second. Does anyone know of a single C cell luxeon light? This light really shows that you dont need 3v lithiums to drive luxeons anymore. Seems like a C cell would still be a fairly small package with excellent runtime.


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## redduck (Sep 7, 2005)

bhds said:


> Received my L1P 2.0 today. As I posted in the groupbuy thread- this light kicks---!
> 
> Some first impressions:
> 
> *Reflector*- Very noticeable circular machining marks. Doesnt seem to affect the actual beam though. 4sevens said that this has been improved upon in version 2.5. Not a big deal to me.



Some one was asking how to tell the diff between 2.0 and 2.5. Here it is, by just looking at the reflector.


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 7, 2005)

I wonder if a clip could be made for this light? The 2 holes for the lanyard could be tapped, and a nice clip like the PD new Ti clip. (the shape is really cool)


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## LightObsession (Sep 7, 2005)

I would also like a clip. Any ideas anyone?


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## this_is_nascar (Sep 7, 2005)

*Re: Comparison Shots*

Here's what I got on the 1st test using a Ray-O-Vac alkaline cells. It's now on the meter with an Engergizer E2.


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## Stainless (Sep 8, 2005)

this_is_nascar: WOW.


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## 4sevens (Sep 8, 2005)

Also check out John Trotto's runtime graphs in
Lux at 1m for the L1 and L1P v2.0
with both Duracells and Energizer 2500mah NIMHs!

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1077074&postcount=14


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## this_is_nascar (Sep 8, 2005)

*Re: Comparison Shots*

Here's the runtime with the Energizer E2.


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## Mr. Blue (Sep 9, 2005)

great work, Ray....

edit: do you folks think it is ok (in the long run) to leave the push switch "on" and twist the body into the tail to operate the light?...sometimes i just like to "twist it".....+ it may save the clickie


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## 2dim (Sep 9, 2005)

Hey, me too! Hate those reverse clickies!!!


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## DarthLumen (Sep 9, 2005)

Nice Graphs!


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## redduck (Sep 9, 2005)

Mr. Blue said:


> great work, Ray....
> 
> edit: do you folks think it is ok (in the long run) to leave the push switch "on" and twist the body into the tail to operate the light?...sometimes i just like to "twist it".....+ it may save the clickie



This will increase the wear and tear on the threads for sure.


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## Solstice (Sep 10, 2005)

t_i_n- thanks for the graphs! It really appears that lithiums are a nice way to go in this light (and they reduce weight to boot). Man, the Fenix really puts that Chromestar thing to shame .


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## this_is_nascar (Sep 10, 2005)

Solstice said:


> t_i_n- thanks for the graphs! It really appears that lithiums are a nice way to go in this light (and they reduce weight to boot). Man, the Fenix really puts that Chromestar thing to shame .



I'll use lithiums in any light that I can. I like the lighter wieght and performance. As for that Chromestar, that is true, but what you don't see is that the Chromstar holds that level for well over 10-hours.


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## onthebeam (Sep 10, 2005)

Interesting chart indeed. Thanks Nascar. Poses a small dilemna though. So many are pleased that the Fenix takes inexpensive AAs versus CR123. I checked at Sam's Club today and Eveready AAs (they don't sell Duracell) are only about .30 each. The Eveready E2 Lithiums are about $1.60 each! Yikes, that's quite a difference to take advantage of the obvious advantages. (I buy Streamlight CR123s from DLS Enterprises for $1.25, the same price Battery Station charges for their brand.) So, for the Fenix, do you all think the Lithiums are worth the price differential? I just checked Battery Station--they have the Everready E2s for $2 each but their own brand for $1 each. Does anyone have experience with the Battery Station ones?? 

(Interesting that the cost savings of the Fenix using AAs is wiped out if using even Battery Station lithiums at $1, versus CR 123s in other lights at $1.25)

When I saw that impressive chart, I also began to wonder about my Nuwai Q 3. Can anyone find a link to a similar runtime chart here? Does have such a flat chart using its Lithium CR123s, too???

Any advice is very much appreciated since I'm eagerly awaiting my Fenix v. 2.5.


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## Lynx_Arc (Sep 10, 2005)

I am awaiting my fenix also. I think the avantage is in being able to use cheap alkalines and nimh, not using lithiums. I plan on using my energizer 2300 nimh AAs mostly in mine and when needed use either alkaline or lithiums as backup. Sure the runtime/output will be a little different but running cost is more important to me not uber performance.


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## this_is_nascar (Sep 10, 2005)

onthebeam said:


> Interesting chart indeed. Thanks Nascar. Poses a small dilemna though. So many are pleased that the Fenix takes inexpensive AAs versus CR123. I checked at Sam's Club today and Eveready AAs (they don't sell Duracell) are only about .30 each. The Eveready E2 Lithiums are about $1.60 each! Yikes, that's quite a difference to take advantage of the obvious advantages. (I buy Streamlight CR123s from DLS Enterprises for $1.25, the same price Battery Station charges for their brand.) So, for the Fenix, do you all think the Lithiums are worth the price differential? I just checked Battery Station--they have the Everready E2s for $2 each but their own brand for $1 each. Does anyone have experience with the Battery Station ones??
> 
> (Interesting that the cost savings of the Fenix using AAs is wiped out if using even Battery Station lithiums at $1, versus CR 123s in other lights at $1.25)
> 
> ...



I will always use the E2 AA or E2 AAA lithiums when possible. The weight and performance benefits are well worth the extra price for me.


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## 4sevens (Sep 10, 2005)

Lynx_Arc said:


> I am awaiting my fenix also. I think the avantage is in being able to use cheap alkalines and nimh, not using lithiums. I plan on using my energizer 2300 nimh AAs mostly in mine and when needed use either alkaline or lithiums as backup. Sure the runtime/output will be a little different but running cost is more important to me not uber performance.



Speaking of nimh's, the 2500 energizers are just a good as the lithiums.
Check out Trotto's awesomes graph:
(note that this graph has a standardized lux reading at 1 meter)


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## Haesslich (Sep 10, 2005)

onthebeam said:


> When I saw that impressive chart, I also began to wonder about my Nuwai Q 3. Can anyone find a link to a similar runtime chart here? Does it show a big advantage using Lithiums, too???
> 
> Any advice is very much appreciated since I'm eagerly awaiting my Fenix v. 2.5.



Uh, the stock Nuwai Q-III uses CR123's, which only COME in lithium or Li-ion forms these days...  However, IIRC, the runtimes for that tend to be about 55-100 minutes at full blast, then tapering off for another 90-120 minutes in moon mode at minimum power after the boost circuit has effectively sucked most of the battery dry. 

For everyday use, I'd still say that the Fenix is a tad cheaper, since running it on normal NiMH rechargeables is a possibility with a similarly flat discharge curve, especially given that R123's give you about half an hour of runtime before petering out in the Q-III, and that the Fenix runs on just about anything which is good for the 'emergency EDC' light.

Plus, you're getting double the runtime on full blast with NiMH as per the chart 4sevens quoted above and an extra hour if you go into the E2 Lithiums. If you figure that into your usage calculations, then a Q-III on primary CR123 cells costs about .27 cents an hour with the Q-III with total 4 hours runtime including moon mode versus .23 cents an hour on the Fenix L1P with the $1.60 Energizer E2 Lithiums you mentioned above for a total 7 hours runtime with moon mode. 

If we factor in the cost with NiMH, which run for about six hours, then the cost drops even more as the cell is reused and you just have to worry about paying for the power the charger uses to recharge the cell. 

The reason everyone's gushing is because it's bright for an AA-light, versatile, and knocks most lights of its class out of the ballpark with its combination of HA-III, good output, quality coated lens, and its versatility; a MMM+ with MadMax MIGHT be brighter, but it uses only Li-Ion batteries, a MMM+ with a BadBoy won't get this bright at all, even with E2's (I tested one that I gave away to someone I'm introducing to flashaholism), and most other lights of this class use 5mm LEDs. But you already knew this. 

(Edited figures for runtime on the NiMH to be 360 minutes, edited cost calculation for Q-III based on total runtime of 220 minutes as per the Cones' review, which had the longest runtime of the three Q-III reviews I've read. Added comments about AA lights and MMM lights).


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## onthebeam (Sep 10, 2005)

Oops. I knew that but some synapses in my brain must be misfiring even more than usual ! . . . Thanks, Haesslich and 4Sevens, for the thoughts on comparison with the nickel metal hydrides, too. . .


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## HaulinLow (Sep 10, 2005)

2dim said:


> "For those that are anal about accidental discharges..."
> 
> Had that problem myself...until I discovered 'Pampers'!


 
:laughing: :sick2:


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## bhds (Sep 10, 2005)

HaulinLow said:


> :laughing: :sick2:


 

Yes. T.M.I


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## ernsanada (Sep 10, 2005)

Just got my Fenix L1P today.
















Beamshot at 8"






Beamshot at 8"







Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting

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Thanks David for the Group Buy!


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## Mrd 74 (Sep 10, 2005)

Nice pics!
Thanks


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## dtsoll (Sep 10, 2005)

yes, very nice pics, thanks indeed!! Doug


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## redduck (Sep 10, 2005)

Is it just me I can see dark cirlces out side the hot spot possibly caused by the tool marks on the reflector. V2.5 should have smoother reflectors.


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## 2dim (Sep 10, 2005)

There's always WriteRight tape...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/92270


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## Siegfried (Sep 10, 2005)

hi, experts,

i am a little confused by trotto's run time graph.
it seems l1 has shorter run time and dimmer output compare with l1p with the same battery.
according to this result, i do not think we should get the l1 except for cost issue. am i right?

regards,
siegfried


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## Solstice (Sep 11, 2005)

Siegfried- the L1 uses an unknown bin LED whereas the L1P uses a good one (R bin). With the new 2.5 reflector, the L1 is purported to reach 38 lumens- at $29, this light represents what I would consider the most bang for the buck (but for myself, I need the L1P  ). After observing this light meticulously, I really feel the quality it offers is unprecidented given the price. I could easily see these things coming out at twice what we are paying and people still buying them.

As others have said, its the AA battery that really garners attention. Sure, there are a dozen other odd lights out there roughly in this size and brightness class, but which one are you going to be able to use when you run out of CR123s in a village in southeastern India? If you take away internet ordering as an option, its still a lot cheaper to buy lithium AAs over CR123s in a store- I have no problem feeding the light these batts, knowing that I can always scrounge a plain old alk if I need to.


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## Haesslich (Sep 11, 2005)

Solstice said:


> Siegfried- the L1 uses an unknown bin LED whereas the L1P uses a good one (R bin). With the new 2.5 reflector, the L1 is purported to reach 38 lumens- at $29, this light represents what I would consider the most bang for the buck (but for myself, I need the L1P  ). After observing this light meticulously, I really feel the quality it offers is unprecidented given the price. I could easily see these things coming out at twice what we are paying and people still buying them.
> 
> As others have said, its the AA battery that really garners attention. Sure, there are a dozen other odd lights out there roughly in this size and brightness class, but which one are you going to be able to use when you run out of CR123s in a village in southeastern India? If you take away internet ordering as an option, its still a lot cheaper to buy lithium AAs over CR123s in a store- I have no problem feeding the light these batts, knowing that I can always scrounge a plain old alk if I need to.



The other thing to remember is that you can use NiMH, so if you have that option, it runs almost as well as the Lithiums - and, on top of that, the runtime is superior to many CR123 lights in the same class with the same output. Plus it's more compact than most.


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## Archangel (Sep 11, 2005)

The L1 is also the only version that comes in grey. (smirk) If case color didn't matter, Mag wouldn't have so many.


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## Haesslich (Sep 11, 2005)

Archangel said:


> The L1 is also the only version that comes in grey. (smirk) If case color didn't matter, Mag wouldn't have so many.



Mag makes them for every Joe, Jane, and Juggie out there - other companies sell one color of light, or maybe two, and don't seem to have issues.  See Streamlight (most of their lights come in just black), Pelican (just yellow, or black), Surefire (HA III nat, black, occasional special-ediiton lights), and so on. 

Personally, I'm probably not going to care what color the flashlight is if I'm stuck in a dark hallway with all the other illumination fixtures having died.


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## Phredd (Sep 12, 2005)

Archangel said:


> The L1 is also the only version that comes in grey.



If you mean the L1P, it's a very, very dark gray. See the pics here as opposed to those on the Fenix site.

Phredd


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## Hikaru (Sep 13, 2005)

Has anyone taken thier Fenix apart yet to look at the switch? If someone could post picts and/or dimenions we might begin to look for some 2-way alternatives for making it into a two level light (like a pimped out Q3).


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## redduck (Sep 14, 2005)

Just buy two Fenix L1P and bind them together and you'll have a 2-stage 80 lumens lights.


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## Kevin Tan (Sep 15, 2005)

Have the L1 n L1P. To me the reflector looks OK. Why wud ppl complain about the reflector having rings when it doesnt degrade the beam? Is it bcus they want a perfect smo? I thought that the rings smooth out the beam artifacts perfectly.


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## bhds (Sep 15, 2005)

Kevin Tan said:


> Have the L1 n L1P. To me the reflector looks OK. Why wud ppl complain about the reflector having rings when it doesnt degrade the beam? Is it bcus they want a perfect smo? I thought that the rings smooth out the beam artifacts perfectly.


 
I dont think anyone has really complained that much about them. Mainly because the beam is already pretty smooth. If the beam sucked really bad then the rings would be more of an issue:shrug:


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## phatalbert (Sep 16, 2005)

Hikaru said:


> Has anyone taken thier Fenix apart yet to look at the switch? If someone could post picts and/or dimenions we might begin to look for some 2-way alternatives for making it into a two level light (like a pimped out Q3).



Is a 2-level upgrade a likely or even possible option to be made available for purchase anytime in the near future?


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## sakurazaka (Sep 17, 2005)

Anybody can post some pictures of the fenix lighten up the whole room and the hallway? In both the horizontal position and the "candle" position if possible.

:thanks:


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## Archangel (Sep 23, 2005)

I just have a couple of quick things to add about the L1 v2 before this thread gets a huge influx of v2.5 impressions...


For starters, the non-lottery aspect of the L1P is the best thing it has going for it. Now maybe that's obvious to the rest of the world, but with us getting pretty much the first batch, i was expecting fairly tight binning. Oopsie. Here's run-times of my three L1s. Variations are expected - and in this case work out well since it suits who i'll be giving them to - but the first one (red) is just sad. (smirk) You needn't mourn for me just yet though, 'cause i checked it out, and for normal car-tasks, i'd risk blinding myself - or more to the point, risk someone else blinding *me* - if the hot spot was much brighter and at short distances the corona is bright enough to be useful.








I'm actually not sure if this next bit is impressive or not since i don't make it a habit to run LEDs on depleted batteries, but it *seems* impressive, at any rate. My long-running L1 was in moon mode - or rather, emergency mode - a solid 17 hours when i decided to measure the voltage. I got .31v; running on an e2 cell, btw. The cut-off to actually *start* though is a bit higher. Near as i can tell it's .41v, which still seems terribly impressive. Whether or not it'll do the same on an alkaline i have no idea. I'll leave that test to one of you guys.


sakurazaka - I don't have an L1P or else i'd take care of you. When i get mine i'll post some pix if no one beats me to it. (smirk) Hopefully someone will though, 'cause i have a bunch of things pending, so it may be a while.

Before i go, here's a pic of a grey Fenix if only because there aren't many shots of it.


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## evanlocc (Sep 23, 2005)

Thanks bhds for the nice beam comparison ! (lets just forget about what batt it run on!



)

Well, I tried once to run the L1+ from the batt that get 'change the batteries' msg from my Canon A40 DC. Still shine for 3 hrs without blink or dim from human eyes. What a best lips-stick size light.


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## Solstice (Sep 23, 2005)

That silver color is pretty slick. I may pick one up when the v2.5 become available from the dealers.


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## Archangel (Sep 23, 2005)

Yeah, i'm a definite fan. I'll know in a week which color i like better, but my money's on this one. It's a shame the color is dependent on version. (smirk) I think Peak spoiled me. Now i want *everyone* to let me mix and match pieces.

4sevens mentioned that v2.5 seems noticeably brighter to the eye which is pretty tasty, but i'm going to be at least a little bit sad to lose that 3-hour (plus) run-time. I guess that's part of the reason this is the one i'll be keeping in the car.


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## this_is_nascar (Sep 23, 2005)

Archangel said:


> pretty tasty, but i'm going to be at least a little bit sad to lose that 3-hour (plus) run-time. I guess that's part of the reason this is the one i'll be keeping in the car.



That's what I'm starting to think too. I have plenty of bright lights. I wanted this for the good combo of brightness vs. runtime. If the v2.5 now goes down to 1.0-1.5 hours of runtime, it's not doing me much good.


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## xpitxbullx (Sep 23, 2005)

I got some 2.5 versions as gifts for some friends. In thier eyes, it will have hella runtime. 

Jeff


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## dc (Sep 25, 2005)

So anybody got got both the v2 and v2.5? Any comments and findings between this 2 twins...

Rgrds,
Daniel


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## Phredd (Sep 25, 2005)

dc said:


> So anybody got got both the v2 and v2.5? Any comments and findings between this 2 twins...



It looks like my 2.5 will ship on Monday. I should be able to post a comparison on Wednesday or Thursday (unless someone beats me to it).

Phredd


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## phatalbert (Sep 25, 2005)

phatalbert said:


> Is a 2-level upgrade a likely or even possible option to be made available for purchase anytime in the near future?



:bump:


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## Jagged (Sep 26, 2005)

I have a friend going to Shenzhen, China next month. I wonder if he could pick pick any up direct and save money. Any idea if that would be possible / legal?


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## bhds (Sep 26, 2005)

I received my v2.5 lights today. Its daylight and I have to go but some quick comparisons between one of the 2.5 vs 2.0 

reflector much smoother and the beam is as perfect as I have ever seen. the 2.0 had noticeable rings around the hotspot when shining against a white wall. 2.5 has nil.

Not slap you in the face brighter but the hotspot is a bit more intense on a white wall.

My 2.0 had a great tint that was slightly lime colored. 2.5 is more white/blue- even better.

:wave: :wave:


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## LightObsession (Sep 26, 2005)

Thanks for the comparison bhds.


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## this_is_nascar (Sep 26, 2005)

I received mine today as well. I'll be posting my own mini review in the Reviews forum, but for now, let me just say that I'm let-down by this purchase. Being the owner of a v2.0, I was really looking forward to these, however I set my expectations too high I guess, not to mention the mechanical issues.


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## txmatt (Sep 26, 2005)

Beam shots after dark? 

My 2.5 supposedly shipped today.


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## GJW (Sep 26, 2005)

Hey Ray,
I'll take one off your hands for you.
Cheap!
:naughty:


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## onthebeam (Sep 26, 2005)

For those who have received their 2.5s already, how does the brightnessa and beam characteristics compare to the Nuwai Q3?


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## onthebeam (Sep 26, 2005)

*.*

.


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## acoldspoon (Sep 26, 2005)

What I'd REALLY like to know, is how the Fenix L1P v2.5 compares to a Nuwai 3W with tactical switch AND a 1AA adapter. As I have one of these Nuwais with 1AA adapters on the way, and have had very good luck with the 2AA adapters (until it disappeared into the yucky New Orleans water while doing SAR), what are the advantages of the Fenix? I think comparing the Fenix to a Nuwai 3W with 1AA adapter will be a little more like comparing apples to apples.


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## joema (Sep 27, 2005)

OK I got my 3 Fenix L1Ps today. Pictures and beamshots below. Sorry if they're a little rough.

I like the Fenix. It has a very nice artifact-free beam pattern, albeit a little narrow for my taste. I'd estimate the overall output at no more than my Caribbean, maybe slightly less -- but that's still impressive.

There's only very slight variation in beam tint and brightness across the three L1Ps I have. In general all three are pretty white. My Caribbean is slightly yellow and my HDS slightly blue. I only notice this when comparing side-by-side.

The switch is a little stiff; requires more pressure than my HDS, but it's OK.

The surface finish was perfect -- no scratches, chips, scuffs or fingerprints. There seemed to be a very slight amount of dust on the reflectors.

The beam pattern is similar to my Caribbean, but with fewer artifacts and a little narrower beam spread. To me that's one of the best features -- very nice looking beam pattern. Prominent hot spot, fainter corona, but decent spill beam.

I tried an e2 lithium vs a fresh Duracell AA -- no major difference, maybe the e2 was very slightly brighter.

Unfortunately I can't do a side-by-side with the Q3, as I gave mine to my brother. However I recollect the Q3 has a little broader beam.

We flashaholics are very picky, but I got mine as gifts, and believe me the Fenix is vastly better than anything most regular people have experienced.

Is it better than the Q3? That's a tough call. Considering the Q3 is available for $29, it really competes more with the L1 not L1P from a price standpoint. Would be interesting to see Q3 vs L1 beam shots.

Peak Caribbean, Fenix L1P, HDS EDC U60






Peak Caribbean, Fenix L1P, HDS EDC U60





Peak Caribbean, Fenix L1P, HDS EDC U60





Peak Caribbean, Fenix L1P, HDS EDC U60 (on max)


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## phatalbert (Sep 27, 2005)

Wow! Great review and pics! I can finally go to bed


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## bhds (Sep 27, 2005)

Beamshots of 1 version 2.0 mixed in with 4 version 2.5.
_Version 2.0 is last one on the right_


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## xiaoyao (Sep 27, 2005)

I think the right one is 2.0 ^_^


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 27, 2005)

The fact that it can make usable light from 1AA is a great feat in itself. Also I welcome the tight beam. Such a small reflector usualy has a wide beam. I like wide beams for bigger lights that I use as area lights when working on stuff. If I have a small EDC like the Fenix I want it to throw far as it may be the only light on me and I want to see far in case of trouble. I cant wait...


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## redduck (Sep 27, 2005)

Beam shots lineup? Judging by the brightness of coronas, I'd say the right most one is a v2.0.


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## bhds (Sep 27, 2005)

Going to do the same beamshots again tonight but mix up the lights and see what the consensus is:naughty:


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 27, 2005)

bhds: sounds like fun. The last one seems to not have a donut hole that close to the wall as the others... Be sure not to overload the camera...


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## Bullzeyebill (Sep 27, 2005)

My L1P, 2.5 has a beautiful white, well formed beam. Donut hole disappears around 5 inches from a white surface. Comparing the L1P with other led and incan lights, using bounce test and LM631 lightmeter, lumen rating is about 17+ lumens. This amount of light with a nice tight beam and usuable side spill is a great night light, and does well searching out things in house during daylight. This is an awesome little light, and well worth the money. I am using Rayovac IC 2000mAh cells, and will probably invest in some Sanyo 2500 cells. Current measured at tailcap is 800mA's with the cells reading 1.27 volts not underload. Current measured in the 600mA range when cells measured 1.33 volts not underload. Last night I measured 470 lux at one meter. I will experiment with some CBP 1650 cells later. 

Bill


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## 4sevens (Sep 27, 2005)

Bullzeyebill said:


> My L1P, 2.5 has a beautiful white, well formed beam. Donut hole disappears around 5 inches from a white surface. Comparing the L1P with other led and incan lights, using bounce test and LM631 lightmeter, lumen rating is about 17+ lumens. This amount of light with a nice tight beam and usuable side spill is a great night light, and does well searching out things in house during daylight. This is an awesome little light, and well worth the money. I am using Rayovac IC 2000mAh cells, and will probably invest in some Sanyo 2500 cells. Current measured at tailcap is 800mA's with the cells reading 2.7 volts not underload. Current measured in the 600mA range when cells measured 3.7 volts not underload. Last night I measured 470 lux at one meter. I will experiment with some CBP 1650 cells later.
> 
> Bill



bill where'd you get the 2.7v and 3.7v cells?


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## Bullzeyebill (Sep 27, 2005)

WHOOPS, not used to working with small numbers. Correction, 1.27, and 1.37 volts. Thanks 4sevens.

Bill

Another correcton. Cells measured last nite were 1.33 volts, not 1.37 volts. Ah, corrections, corrections......


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## Phredd (Sep 27, 2005)

Bullzeyebill said:


> WHOOPS, not used to working with small numbers. Correction, 1.27, and 1.37 volts. Thanks 4sevens.
> Another correcton. Cells measured last nite were 1.33 volts, not 1.37 volts. Ah, corrections, corrections......



What, are you working in the dark?


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## jashhash (Sep 27, 2005)

How did you aproximate the lumens of this light? Did you use an integration sphere?


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## dtsoll (Sep 27, 2005)

I got two L1P 2.5's from litemania and I really like them. I loaded a duracell procell in one of my lights and it put out very good light for 3 hours 30 minutes. It had dimmed significantly but was still very, very usable. I would estimate it at 30-40% of starting brightness. I didn't think I would like the reverse clicky but it really isn't that bad at all. I like the feel of the clicky, nice and crisp, yet easy to press. Both mine are real nice lights. I own two TnC Keylux AA's which are just a work of Art, but these little lights are very cool in their own right!! I just love AA lights and these things are winners, at least to me they are, sure glad I bought em!!! Doug


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## rdshores (Sep 27, 2005)

Bullzeyebill said:



> My L1P, 2.5 has a beautiful white, well formed beam. Donut hole disappears around 5 inches from a white surface. Comparing the L1P with other led and incan lights, using bounce test and LM631 lightmeter, *lumen rating is about 17+* *lumens.* This amount of light with a nice tight beam and usuable side spill is a great night light, and does well searching out things in house during daylight. This is an awesome little light, and well worth the money. I am using Rayovac IC 2000mAh cells, and will probably invest in some Sanyo 2500 cells. Current measured at tailcap is 800mA's with the cells reading 1.27 volts not underload. Current measured in the 600mA range when cells measured 1.33 volts not underload. Last night I measured 470 lux at one meter. I will experiment with some CBP 1650 cells later.


 
*The L1P is advertized at 46 lumens. Why the big difference?*


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## DavidD (Sep 27, 2005)

Brand-newbie. Feel free to disregard. I don't claim to know how voltage boost circuits affect output. I've been lurking for a while & trying to learn what I can. If you boost the voltage, keep the current as-is, that says to me higher power but lower capacity=less runtime. R bins are rated to be 39.8 to 51.7 lumens, give or take. It doesn't make sense to me that lumens would be as low as 17. Then again, you underpower an EDC 60 to reduce the lumens to less than 60, so maybe even with the voltage boost & available current, there is only enough power for 17 lumens.  I'll just sit back, let others answer & try to keep learning.


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## m209 (Sep 27, 2005)

Peak Caribbean is impressive from looking at the beam shots. Is the L1P worth the extra $ compared to the L1?




http://nbox00.tripod.com


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## LEDninja (Sep 28, 2005)

Looking at the photos, the flat surfaces seem to be tucked in instead of sticking out. How is the Fenix rolling resistance on an inclined surface?


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## redduck (Sep 28, 2005)

LEDninja said:


> Looking at the photos, the flat surfaces seem to be tucked in instead of sticking out. How is the Fenix rolling resistance on an inclined surface?


I heard they'll roll.


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## joema (Sep 28, 2005)

That's correct, there's no anti-roll feature. OTOH it does a tail stand perfectly, not bad for a tail clicky.


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## lexina (Sep 28, 2005)

LEDninja said:


> Looking at the photos, the flat surfaces seem to be tucked in instead of sticking out. How is the Fenix rolling resistance on an inclined surface?



you are right - the flat surfaces do not stop the fenix rolling. what does is the lanyard. what i like are the little touches - for eg. the tail cap is flush against the end so that the light can be stood on end in candle mode. to accomplish this, there are 2 little holes for the lanyard instead of 1 so that the lanyard does not have to loop over the edge. another thing is that the tail cap can operate in both click-mode or twist-mode (after clicking on).

in comparison with the Q3, my Fenix has a whiter tint and a more distinct and brighter hotspot with a darker (although still perfectly usable) side-spill. surprisingly, it also out-throws the Q3. the Q3 has a slightly warmer tint and a less dintinct hotspot which blends into a smaller side-spill, probably because of its deeper reflector. both the fenix and Q3 have near-perfect beams with no nasty rings or artifacts. in summary, the Q3 is more of a flood while the fenix is more of a spot. i wouldn't part with either of them!


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## GJW (Sep 28, 2005)

lexina said:


> in summary, the Q3 is more of a flood while the fenix is more of a spot.



Exactly what I wanted to hear.


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## PocketBeam (Sep 28, 2005)

Out throws the Q3, sweet! Who says size (of reflector) matters... hasn't met the Fenix


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## Frangible (Sep 28, 2005)

rdshores said:


> Bullzeyebill said:
> 
> 
> 
> *The L1P is advertized at 46 lumens. Why the big difference?*



I'd really like to know this as well as I had been considering getting a L1P... how many lumens do these actually output?


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## Blades (Sep 28, 2005)

Thanks for the reviews and pic's. I'm really looking forward to my L1P now!!



Blades


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## chevrofreak (Sep 28, 2005)

Fantastic sized light, fits my hand perfectly. The holster is very well made and will be right at home on my Wilderness 5 stitch. Output is phenomenal, I just put it infront of my light meter and read 901 lux at 1 meter. Doing a runtime test now, should have it up in say 5 hours? Less?

EDIT: there was indeed something wrong with my light meter, I believe it was related to my use of a 9v transformer instead of a battery.


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## phatalbert (Sep 28, 2005)

chevrofreak said:


> read 901 lux at 1 meter.



:wow:

QuickBeams Lux reading of an exceptional Peak Caribbean:
"~ 810 at beam center. (28.46 Comparison Chart equivalent) "


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## Kiessling (Sep 28, 2005)

EDIT: removed misplaced post :green:


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## Bullzeyebill (Sep 28, 2005)

chevrofreak, which cells are you using? Lithium AA? I am looking forward to your runtime results. Did you check current? 

Bill


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## pokkuhlag (Sep 28, 2005)

chevrofreak said: Everactive alkaline! in the Groupbuy post. 

He hasn't measured the current, he is doing the runtime graph with an alkaline as I type. And he's also :sleepy: as I type.


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## jtice (Sep 28, 2005)

chevrofreak said:


> Fantastic sized light, fits my hand perfectly. The holster is very well made and will be right at home on my Wilderness 5 stitch. Output is phenomenal, I just put it infront of my light meter and read 901 lux at 1 meter. Doing a runtime test now, should have it up in say 5 hours? Less?



ahhhhh, what light are you talking about???
The Fenix is NOT 800+ lux.

My highest reading one on nimh cells is about 530, and only for a few seconds.


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## pd54 (Sep 28, 2005)

Just got my Fenix L1P in today...

Overall, the beam is flawless...very very smooth. The tint seems good (slightly purple). Something a little disappointing is that my Sam's Element flashlight is noticeably brighter and whiter than the Fenix, although the beam isn't quite as smooth. Is this just the Luxeon lottery?

One thing I did notice is the size of it....it's MUCH smaller than the pictures made it look.

BTW, I'm using freshly charged 2500mAh (AA) and 900mAh (AAA) Energizers.


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## redduck (Sep 28, 2005)

What is Sam's Element flashlight? What does it run on?


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## pd54 (Sep 28, 2005)

It runs on 3xAAA...here's a picture of it:







it comes with 2 with batteries for $26.


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## GJW (Sep 28, 2005)

4.5VDC vs 1.5VDC
5+" vs less than 4"

Doesn't seem like a fair comparison.


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## pd54 (Sep 28, 2005)

GJW said:


> 4.5VDC vs 1.5VDC
> 5+" vs less than 4"
> 
> Doesn't seem like a fair comparison.




I guess that's a good point...I was just thinking that when the Fenix was rated at 46 lumens, it would be brighter...I'll admit though, for it's size and running off of a single AA, it's still very bright.


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## chrisse242 (Sep 28, 2005)

Some comparison shots, I'll let the pics speak for themselves:

Contestants are the arc4 at maximum brightness, an Mj-Led in a standard 2aa-light with fresh alkalines and the Fenix L1p with one nimh hot of the charger.
I used my canon powershot G2 fo those pics.

















Some wildlife shots with snake and Parrot ;-), couldn't capture the spill beam.
















No Snakes, Parrots or other animals were harmed in the Production of these Pictures.

I don't have my Q3 any longer, or I would have included it in this comparison.
My fenix is very bright, but I'd say it doesn't come close to 46 Lumens.
The switch module sometimes seems to unscrew itself when the tailcap is openend. I'll have to find the right tool to screw it down real hard.
The lens is definitly AR-coated, beam is smoth without any visible artifacts.
The MJ-LED I used isn't as blue in real life, but from all the lights compared i'd say the fenix has the "cleanest" white.

No equipment to do a runtime test, but that has been already covered by others.

Overall, the fenix is a great light with massive output and the most common mobile power source on earth.
My favourite for the light of the year!!!

Chrisse


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## LightObsession (Sep 28, 2005)

Thanks for the beamshots Chrisse. The L1P looks good, but I really like the beam of that Arc4.


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## 4sevens (Sep 28, 2005)

LightObsession said:


> Thanks for the beamshots Chrisse. The L1P looks good, but I really like the beam of that Arc4.



Nice pictures, Chrisse! Is that 2.5 from me or from someone else?

Two things to keep in mind here...
Note the Arc4 is using a li-ion which will yield a higher output than 3v primaries.

Second, which is a very important note to consider whenever beamshots
are observed.... The diameter and dimensions of the reflector are a 
fact of how bright the hotspot turns out. The arc4 has a 20mm reflector
if I recall while the fenix has a 16.5mm reflector. Quite a difference if you
ask me. Someone can do the math on the surface area of a circle minus
the area that isn't reflected (the diameter of the luxeon) and you 
can get an idea of how much light is reflected.

Also the depth to diameter ratio is important.

Keep in mind that LUMENS is total light output
While LUX will fluctuate base on how much light is THROWN forward.


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## chrisse242 (Sep 28, 2005)

I ordered this one from Warren, but that doesn't mean any preference. ;-)

I never noticed the arc4 becoming brighter on li-ions and I doubt it does.
You're right in all the other aspects, but my Arc4 is definitly brighter than the fenix, not just the spot, but overall output as well. The arc4 spot may be slightly dimmer but it's bigger, and the spill is brighter too. It's close but the arc4 wins. After all, the Arc4 was sold for a much higher price and uses a cell that is suited much better to run this LED.
In no way I want to diminish the performance of this little Fenix, it's a great light and a clear "must have" IMHO.

Chrisse


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## 4sevens (Sep 28, 2005)

chrisse242 said:


> I ordered this one from Warren, but that doesn't mean any preference. ;-)
> 
> I never noticed the arc4 becoming brighter on li-ions and I doubt it does.
> You're right in all the other aspects, but my Arc4 is definitly brighter than the fenix, not just the spot, but overall output as well. The arc4 spot may be slightly dimmer but it's bigger, and the spill is brighter too. It's close but the arc4 wins. After all, the Arc4 was sold for a much higher price and uses a cell that is suited much better to run this LED.
> ...



I only mention it because I've observed it in three of my arc4+'s 
If you have a light meter, perform an experiment


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## chrisse242 (Sep 28, 2005)

OK, you got me. No light meter here, so I'll have to believe. ;-)

Chrisse


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## Sengoku (Sep 28, 2005)

The fenix is not brighter than the Arc4?(33lumens) which is a confirmed lumen rating on all arc4s. 
The Arc4 doesnt run brighter with li-ion, thats HDS right?


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## bhds (Sep 28, 2005)

Heres another beamshot of 1 version 2.0 mixed in with 4 version 2.5 
_Version 2.0 is 2nd from left_


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 28, 2005)

bhds: Second to last one. In your other image it was the last one. I'm sticking to that.


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## LightObsession (Sep 28, 2005)

Sengoku said:


> The fenix is not brighter than the Arc4?(33lumens) which is a confirmed lumen rating on all arc4s.
> The Arc4 doesnt run brighter with li-ion, thats HDS right?



My understanding is that when most people on this forum refer to brightness, they're referring to the brightest part of the spot of the beam as in when they're checking with they're light meter.

The lumens measurement is for the total output of a light and can't be determined by a brightness measurement of the spot.

As you pointed out, the overall output of the Arc4 appears greater than the L1P because the spill beam is brighter, but the spots appear to have similar brightnesses.


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## bhds (Sep 28, 2005)

Heres a link to a series of timed shots I took last night. My hope was to get a rough estimate on how much runtime is lost with the supposed higher current draw of the 2.5 
T.I.N runtime graph is much more accurate but I like to see if there is any actual discernible difference. 
The pictures are time stamped. I started at 10 min intervals but there wasnt much change so I went to 20 minutes and then finally got tired and went to bed.:sleepy: Only towards the very end can you actually see any difference. (_version 2.0 is 2nd from left)_

My take is that you arent really losing much runtime or gaining much in brightness with the 2.5 upgrade. But, the reflector is a bit smoother and it was free:thumbsup: 

I also edited my prior comparison photos to note the version 2.0

http://home.comcast.net/~mlb39/fenix/index.htm


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## GJW (Sep 28, 2005)

Here's an other size reference:






And here's a beamshot with a QIII (on the left).
*QIII is not stock -- it's running an R123 with a FluPic and is in burst mode. *


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## chevrofreak (Sep 28, 2005)

EDIT: there was indeed something wrong with my light meter, I believe it was related to my use of a 9v transformer instead of a battery.


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## Osprey_Guy (Sep 28, 2005)

I'm curious as to what batteries you were using in the Q3 and in the Fenix for those comparison shots. I haven't received my Fenix yet but I do know that my Q3 is way brighter when using a rechargeable 123.

The Q3 is no longer being used much, now that I have my newest EDC...A KL4 on a Vital Gear FB1 (blows away the Q3 for both spill and throw)...Only 3.3" in length. Although it's even shorter than the Fenix, it does take 123's...And that's what makes the Fenix sound so very interesting. I suppose I might have to start carrying two EDC's!


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## GJW (Sep 28, 2005)

Yeah, I probably should have said.
That QIII was modded with a FluPic module (w/ R123) and it was in burst mode.
I don't have a stock QIII.


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## GJW (Sep 28, 2005)

Osprey_Guy said:


> ... my newest EDC...A KL4 on a Vital Gear FB1 (blows away the Q3 for both spill and throw)



I think your Q3 is broken or your KL4 is truly blessed.
Typically the KL4 is *not* a thrower.


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## Kalinux (Sep 28, 2005)




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## Osprey_Guy (Sep 28, 2005)

Just because the KL4 is mostly spill, that doesn't mean it has no throw. The Q3 isn't exactly known for throw either. I love my Q3...it's a terrific light and because of its flood capability it's been my EDC for nearly a year...until now.

I'm certain that I won the luxeon lottery with my Q3, and yet with a fresh rechargeable in my KL4/FB1, it destroys the Q3 in spill and I'll modify my statement to say that when it comes to throw, it's damn close.

And from the looks of things, the Fenix is going to give both a serious run for the money as an EDC (it's a whole lot cheaper than my KL4/FB1 combo).


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## GJW (Sep 28, 2005)

I don't think it's been said yet but to me, the holster alone is worth $5-$7.
Very nice indeed.
If anyone wants to get rid of theirs I'd be interested.

The whole package is an excellent value.


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## torchtate (Sep 28, 2005)

Received a package from the mailwoman today... :twothumbs 
so I opened it up and inside was my brand new Fenix L1P v2.5 from LITEmania!

Check out a few pics here: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/billrccw/ ---Click on the fenix gallery. There are some comparison shots with other common items of similar size, and there are some beamshots. The fenix is on the left and the beam on the right is from my minimag w/ a terralux tl-5 luxeon I side emitter. I'm standing about 6 feet away from my wall and the camera is set to night mode. In the other beam shot photos I'm standing about 15 feet away from my road bike with a box fan in front of it. The fenix is has a brighter beam and a much whiter tint, but the minimag has a tad more side spill. 

Overall the fenix seems to be an awesome light. It's incredibly small and really really bright. The lens/reflector/optics are first rate. The construction and overall design is of excellent quality...however I can't comment on durability/reliablity since it's brand new. The size and light output make this light a venerable combination :rock:


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 28, 2005)

Chevrofreak must have gotten a super low Vf or his light meter needs calibrating!
Kalinux: that's great!!
GJW, cool, from the pics it looked just like a normal cheapo holster. Glad to hear it's of quality I'll probably use it over the lanyard. How does it attach to the belt? Horizontal, vertical, Clip, Velcro, slide on?

Still amazes me that they are getting that much light from 1.5volts.


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## LITEmania (Sep 28, 2005)

mailed 9/22 arrived 9/29...rather faster than expected...


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## 4sevens (Sep 28, 2005)

GJW said:


> I don't think it's been said yet but to me, the holster alone is worth $5-$7.
> Very nice indeed.
> If anyone wants to get rid of theirs I'd be interested.
> 
> The whole package is an excellent value.



I've a few spare holsters... yes they really are nice. Nylon with neoprene
pouch. Along with the belt loop, it's got a ring at the top for something to
clip on to. 

Contact me if you want some of the spares


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 28, 2005)

Hmm. Now I gotta make a spare AA carrier to stitch to the side of it. I don't have any lights that are small enough to clip on a belt and go exploring with. Now I will. I have hotrodded mags, and a streamlight jr lux, but thats too long to use other than working on cars...


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## chevrofreak (Sep 29, 2005)

oops meant to edit a previous post


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## Osprey_Guy (Sep 29, 2005)

Well, as predicted, my Fenix (2.5) arrived this morning. I've been playing with it for all of 15 minutes, so here's a very quick 1st impression...

I like the size. When I opened the padded envelope the flashlight was already in the pouch and it really struck me just how small it is. It's diminutive size is enhanced by the fact that it is one, small, uniform diameter from head to tail (roughly .15" larger in diameter than a 123 cell, which just happens to be sitting in front of me alongside digital calipers).

The clickie works great (I got used to the reversed clickie after 10 months of carrying my Q3).

Speaking of my Q3...Because they're both single cells "EDC's" with kinda similar price points, a quick comparison was of course in order...With a CR123 in the Q3 (a brand new "Titanium" brand from Amondotech), and a brand new e2 Lithium in the Fenix, here's the bottom line of what my eyes told me. They basically compliment one another... The Fenix definitely has more throw while still offering useful sidespill. The Q3 has way more spill while providing useful throw.

And true to what 4sevens (and others) have said about the holster it is very nice. In fact I wish I could find these in different sizes,...very impressed. 

Overall, this is one heck of a nice package...I feel like I got a lot more than my money's worth. Perfect little EDC, and it takes AA's!!!! :twothumbs


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## onthebeam (Sep 29, 2005)

So, if forced to carry just one, would it be the Q3 or the Fenix? Is the beam as artifact-free and white as the Q3? Hope mine arrives today!!



Osprey_Guy said:


> Well, as predicted, my Fenix (2.5) arrived this morning. I've been playing with it for all of 15 minutes, so here's a very quick 1st impression...
> 
> I like the size. When I opened the padded envelope the flashlight was already in the pouch and it really struck me just how small it is. It's diminutive size is enhanced by the fact that it is one, small, uniform diameter from head to tail (roughly .15" larger in diameter than a 123 cell, which just happens to be sitting in front of me alongside digital calipers).
> 
> ...


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## Osprey_Guy (Sep 29, 2005)

> So, if forced to carry just one, would it be the Q3 or the Fenix? Is the beam as artifact-free and white as the Q3? Hope mine arrives today!!


 Hmmmm...Close call. It really depends on your particular needs.

The beam is very clean. Unlike the Q3, which very gradually diminishes from its center, the Fenix has a more pronounced and brighter spot, which quickly (but smoothly) drops off to useable, far less bright sidespill.

I'd say that it really comes very close to being a tossup depending on personal needs. The Q3 on a 3.7-4.2 volt rechargeable suddenly becomes a whole different animal...considerably brighter than what was reported in my "quick" test. But the AA battery aspect of the Fenix, it's thinner body, candle mode capability (which the Q3 can do as well, but only with the help of a mod), tips the scales back in the Fenix's direction again...Back to a pretty close balance.


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## phatalbert (Sep 29, 2005)

Osprey_Guy said:


> But the AA battery aspect of the Fenix, it's thinner body, candle mode capability (which the Q3 can do as well, but only with the help of a mod), tips the scales back in the Fenix's direction again...Back to a pretty close balance.



Don' t forget about waterproofness, and HAIII. :naughty:


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## GJW (Sep 29, 2005)

onthebeam said:


> So, if forced to carry just one, would it be the Q3 or the Fenix? Is the beam as artifact-free and white as the Q3? Hope mine arrives today!!



Fenix.
The size, the HA3, and the AA battery is what decides it for me.
And for a smooth reflector, the Fenix does an impressive in minimizing artifacts.
I would say that the Q3 has a prettier hotspot but both beams look equally smooth to me.
Regarding tint, my Q3 has a hint of yellow and the Fenix has a hint of blue.
I'll take blue.


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## Osprey_Guy (Sep 29, 2005)

Luxeon lottery at work...My Q3 is very white leaning slightly toward blue...My Fenix is also a very clean white but leaning ever-so-slightly to yellow (warmer might be a more appropriate, friendlier description).

I forgot to mention* that under 3-4" the Fenix has a very pronounced donut (looks like the profile of a life-saver candy), but very quickly dissapears into a near-perfect, smooth beam once you get beyond that.

*That's how little it mattered in the overall quality and usefullness of the beam.

And yes, the finish betwen the Fenix and the Q3 is like night and day. The Fenix easily wins hands down in that regard.


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## joema (Sep 29, 2005)

Like everybody else, I think the Q3 is a good light but it's been out classed by the Fenix. Also the Fenix gives you the option of either alkaline or lithium AA power.

The Q3 is supposedly fully regulated, vs the Fenix semi-regulated, but with an e2 lithium AA, the Fenix has very flat output, and hugely greater run time -- nearly 4 hr to 50%, vs 55 min to 50% for the Q3.

IMO the Q3 has an impressive quality look/feel, but the Fenix is just better.

But -- at the current $29 Q3 price from Amondotech, the Q3 really competes price wise with the L1, not the L1P. That evens it a little more but I still think the Fenix is better.


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## IsaacHayes (Sep 29, 2005)

Cool, I was considering a Q3 for a while but didn't want to bite the 123a bullet. Sounds like the fenix will be better for me, better construction, even smaller, and throws more!! Yeah! I want a small EDC to throw, my ArcAAA (CS LED) is for up close/flood. 
BUT MINE STILL HASN'T COME!!


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## electronics4life (Sep 29, 2005)

I think my holster is damaged/never got sewed.





How is your holster velcro held down?


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## cmendoza (Sep 29, 2005)

Does anyone know if a Maglite 2 AA clip will fit on this?


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## Phaserburn (Sep 29, 2005)

joema said:


> Like everybody else, I think the Q3 is a good light but it's been out classed by the Fenix. Also the Fenix gives you the option of either alkaline or lithium AA power.
> 
> The Q3 is supposedly fully regulated, vs the Fenix semi-regulated, but with an e2 lithium AA, the Fenix has very flat output, and hugely greater run time -- nearly 4 hr to 50%, vs 55 min to 50% for the Q3.
> 
> ...


 
The Q3 isn't regulated; it's only using a boost circuit. Power declines as voltage drops.


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## Lemon328i (Sep 29, 2005)

I just have to chime in that this is the best little flashlight I've ever gotten! I like it so much, I've already given away my CMG Infinity Ultra. I EDC a 3LED Peak Matterhorn (and am anxiously awaiting a pocketclip version), but I will also EDC the L1P. The tiny holster is first rate. 

To: Electronics4life, you must have a defective holster, the velcro on mine is stitched down.

Thanks again to 4Sevens for running an outstanding groupbuy on what may be the flashlight of the year!


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## redduck (Sep 29, 2005)

After received my Fenix my Q3 will retire comforbably in the glove box. It has served me well in the past 5, 6 months.


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## UnknownVT (Sep 29, 2005)

Just got mine today Thur Sept/29 -


Comparison posted -

Fenix L1 v2.5 (Non-Premium) 


vs. Nuwai Q3 (on fresh CR123)








Thanks 4sevens :goodjob:


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## GJW (Sep 29, 2005)

electronics4life said:


> I think my holster is damaged/never got sewed.



I agree.
My velcro is sewn all the way around.


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## joema (Sep 29, 2005)

Phaserburn said:


> The Q3 isn't regulated; it's only using a boost circuit. Power declines as voltage drops.


Thanks for the correction -- you're right.


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## GJW (Sep 29, 2005)

cmendoza said:


> Does anyone know if a Maglite 2 AA clip will fit on this?



The Fenix has a larger diameter so the clip will have to be bent open a bit.
Should work though.


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## 4x4Dragon (Sep 29, 2005)

got my L1P v2.0 today! VERY nice! nice dark HA finish and perfectly centered luxeon. got a Rayovac 15 minute NIMH(2000) in it right now and it's pretty bright. fit and finish are very precise, no battery rattle. I can't get over the fact that all of this i got for less than $40! kinda gets me to thinking about the Arc AAA premium though....... this light, Fenix, suggests to me that maybe the Arc AAA premium should be priced at something around the $30 mark.(standard-$25)

Hooray Fenix!!! Rise of the Fenix!!!

love the holster too!!!


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## Osprey_Guy (Sep 29, 2005)

Electronics4life-

The velcro should be sewn down. I don't know if 4sevens has any spares left (since announcing earlier in this thread, that he had some extras), but in case he doesn't, it's quite easy to sew down that piece of velcro yourself. Several times over the past 10 months I had to repair/reinforce the (much more cheaply made) nylon pouch that came with my Q3. 

In addition to the existing velcro flap, I bought extra strips of velcro from Home Depot and cut them to size. And with a slightly heavier needle, and some stronger, black nylon thread, I found that it wasn't difficult at all to sew the velcro into the flap of the pouch...And by so doing, I was able to dramatically extend the life of the Q3's pouch.


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## 4sevens (Sep 29, 2005)

electronics4life said:


> I think my holster is damaged/never got sewed.
> How is your holster velcro held down?



Who did you get the fenix from? If from me, send it back to me for
a replacement.



4x4Dragon said:


> got my L1P v2.0 today! VERY nice! nice dark HA finish and perfectly centered luxeon. got a Rayovac 15 minute NIMH(2000) in it right now and it's pretty bright. fit and finish are very precise, no battery rattle. I can't get over the fact that all of this i got for less than $40! kinda gets me to thinking about the Arc AAA premium though....... this light, Fenix, suggests to me that maybe the Arc AAA premium should be priced at something around the $30 mark.(standard-$25)
> 
> Hooray Fenix!!! Rise of the Fenix!!!
> 
> love the holster too!!!



If you just consider material and manufacturing costs, the fenix easily doubles
the arc aaa. Double the machined part count, AR glass, reflector coating, 
switch components and assembly, 3 orings and a boot, plus more assembly 
time.  Though they are different animals, the fenix is definitely bigger 
bang per buck


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## LifeNRA (Sep 29, 2005)

I received 2 v2.5 Premiums for my brother and his wife. They wanted something small to carry with them without spending too much money and the AA battery was a big plus for them. Yes I did talk them into buying them. So far they are fairly happy with them. 
We were playing with them yesterday and tonight and one is a nice blueish white tint while the other one is green tinted  . Not cat urine green but more of a lime green. Very noticable side by side. I have explained the luxeon lottery to them but I dont think it made them feel any better about it.
Also both have a lot of dust and scratches on the reflectors. The one with the best tinted beam has several bad scratches on the reflector. But I could not tell that it affected the beam at all. 
Overall they are happy with the good tinted one and not so happy with the green tinted one. 
Seems like a very good light for the money as long as the you get one that has a nice tint to the beam.


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## cave dave (Sep 29, 2005)

Got mine today from 4-7s. Wow this light is nice. Its been burning 2 hrs now on a 2300 nimh. Haven't noticed any dimming. One of my early Lambda mods isn't any brighter and runs for less than 2hrs on Two AA's  If this sucker were packaged in a Surefire box with a Surefire logo nobody would doubt it for a second. Its that good! The holster is very nice too, no extra bulk to it, like some others. China is obviously capable of producing some top notch stuff. Too bad most companies only want the cheap stuff


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## electronics4life (Sep 29, 2005)

4sevens said:


> Who did you get the fenix from? If from me, send it back to me for
> a replacement.



Thanks for the offer, but my wife says she can fix it up easily.


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## redduck (Sep 29, 2005)

This is not the first time I read about dusty reflector. Are they put togehter in a dusty room?


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## Phaserburn (Sep 30, 2005)

4sevens said:


> If you just consider material and manufacturing costs, the fenix easily doubles the arc aaa. Double the machined part count, AR glass, reflector coating, switch components and assembly, 3 orings and a boot, plus more assembly time.  Though they are different animals, the fenix is definitely bigger bang per buck


 
Not to mention the minor fact that one has a R bin luxeon, the other has a single 5mm led. :sick2:


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## Christoph (Sep 30, 2005)

Very impressive I Will have to get several more of these for gifts as well as stash lights.thanks 7777:rock: :goodjob:


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## cmendoza (Sep 30, 2005)

4sevens, Thanks for great lights!

I compared my 1LP to my MMMag with the MiniPro pill a Tbin lux III. I measered to see how far away they could turn off a night light. They were pretty even (about 6 feet). One of the rechargable AA's (both fresh off the charger) was little stronger so the one that had the stronger AA had about 2 inches on the other. At 1/2 hour they both moved up a foot and were still even. At one hour the Fenix held steady but the MiniPro moved up another foot. At 1 1/2 hours the Fenix was still nearly the same distance and double the MiniPro. I checked again at 3 hours and they were even again.

So overall, from this series of one with notibly different AA rechargables (I put the stronger one in the MiniPro) the Fenix with a R ranked Lux I was just as bright and much more efficient!

For what it's worth.


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## GJW (Sep 30, 2005)

4sevens said:


> If you just consider material and manufacturing costs, the fenix easily doubles the arc aaa. Double the machined part count, AR glass, reflector coating, switch components and assembly, 3 orings and a boot, plus more assembly time.  Though they are different animals, the fenix is definitely bigger bang per buck



I too think that the Arcs are overpriced but it's the labor that _helps_ explain the price difference.
Chinese labor and US labor are *MILES* apart price-wise.


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## txmatt (Sep 30, 2005)

In addition, the Fenix is under-driving a Lux while the Arc is overdriving a 5mm. As such, Peter did significant R&D testing different LED's and how they performed (real vs stated specs as well as degradation over time). The lifetime warranty factors in as well.

I've put down my money for both. I love the new Arc AAA and am awaiting the L1P v2.5 which I'm sure will be great, too.


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## LightObsession (Sep 30, 2005)

I received my two L1P 2.5 today and installed the only AA batteries I could find here at work - slightly used Duracell measuring 1.48v unloaded.

Initial impressions/observations:

1. Nice matt finish - doesn't feel slick.

2. Can see rings in the reflector. The reflector on my Nuwai 2AAA .5w is much smoother. The rings in the Fenix reflector may contribute to the smooth beam. Also have some small shiny bumps on the Fenix reflector as well as a few little spots of glue near the lens.

3. Clicky switch very stiff - similar to my Costco 2AA 1w luxeon lights.

4. SWITCH CAN BE USED AS A "TWISTY" by clicking it on and then turning the end cap CCW until it goes off. Turn the end cap CW to turn it back on. This is possible because the clicky stays mechanically latched until it is pushed again to turn it off. I don't recall anyone else mentioning this characteristic. Seems like a nice option to have.

5. Nice sheath. Light doesn't take up much more space in the pocket with the sheath on than without the sheath.

6. Beam tints: Compared to each other, one is more purplish than the other.
- Compared to my Dorcy 3AAA 1w, both Fenix look purplish and the Dorcy appears to have better color rendering. 

7. Output: Much greater than the Nuwai 2AAA.
- Appears to be a little less than the Dorcy 3AAA with new batteries. I realize that the Dorcy will dim quickly and the Fenix will dim slowly. 
- The Dorcy spill is much brighter than the Fenix, but Fenix spill is wider than the Dorcy. 
- The Dorcy hotspot is larger and better defined. Beamshots of these lights are compared in someone else's post. I won't be taking any beamshots.

Summary: They seem like pretty nice lights. I look forward to playing around with them a lot this weekend. If the Q3 doesn't have much more output than these, then I don't feel too bad about not having a Q3. It's interesting that lights with the same luxeon bins (my two Fenix) can have such different tints. These are the most expensive lights I've purchased, so I hope that my fondness of them grows.

THANKS 4Sevens for putting this group buy together. Have a relaxing weekend.


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## Frangible (Sep 30, 2005)

GJW said:


> I too think that the Arcs are overpriced but it's the labor that _helps_ explain the price difference.
> Chinese labor and US labor are *MILES* apart price-wise.



I thought CNC machines worked for pretty cheap in either country


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## cave dave (Sep 30, 2005)

Frangible said:


> I thought CNC machines worked for pretty cheap in either country


 
CNC machines are very expensive. They may not even be using CNC if the labor is cheap enough. Probably are though, at the rate they are making these things.

BTW: if you have a 4sevens model you can use the front head part as a twisty as well since its not glued in place.

-Dave


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## Hookd_On_Photons (Sep 30, 2005)

I received my L1P v2.5 lights today.

As others have noted, they are of excellent quality with respect to appearance and feel.

Both of mine required screwing down the tailswitch with snap-ring pliers about one full turn. The anodizing was worn off on the rim of the tailcaps of both my lights, between the lanyard holes, which I don't mind at all since it's inevitable that I'll add a few dings to the finish eventually.

The Fenixes are brighter than my stock Q-III, Arc LS-H, a modded Arc LS running at 400 mA (one of the infamous eBay 200/400 switchable mods), and an EverLED (old low-dome version) in a stubby Dorcy "Turtlelite" 4AA running on lithiums. The perceived brightness of the Arcs might suffer a bit because they use an NX-05 optic, as opposed to a reflector. I have no idea what the bins of any of my Luxeon lights are.

The Fenix L1P is an almost perfect EDC. It's small, bright, hard-anodized, and uses readily available AA batteries, at a great price-to-performance ratio. The only improvement I can think of would be to add a two-stage switch. There are many situations in which low-level light is more useful, and a low-beam option could help make battery changes less frequent.

I've been lurking on CPF since before there were any Luxeon flashlights. If Fenix L1Ps existed in their current form just three years ago, I have no doubt people would have been willing to pay three times their current price.


On edit: The flimsiness of the lanyard makes me a little nervous. A 1/2" split ring easily fits into a lanyard hole.


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## redduck (Sep 30, 2005)

The light of the year (to me at least) is finally here today. :bow: It’s exactly what I expected, because I have read soooo much about it. It’s only slightly shorter than my Q3, about the same weight, possibly slightly more (both with battery). Fit and finish is top notch as expected. It feels very solid and sturdy. The lens is obviously coated, with bluish tint. As other have reported, some dust can be seen inside the lens and on the reflector, not a big deal. I was able to attach the lanyard with floss trick mentioned by other members here. I loaded my Q3 (old version) with fresh Titanium brand 123, the Fenix L1P v2.5 with fully but not so freshly charged Panasonic2100 mAh Ni-MH and locked myself in the windowless bath room. As others have described, the Fenix has a tighter and hotter hot spot, larger side spill. The brightness of side spill is comparable between the two lights. As a not so scientific test of overall brightness(lumen), I bounced both light off the ceiling at the same spot (but not at the same time) and tried to read the label on a soap bottle from a distance, I am not sure I could not tell the difference. Compare to my Q3, the Fenix has a cooler tint. The edge of the hot spot appears to have a little purple/blue tint, again not a big deal. Overall I am very please with this light. Thanks again 4Sevens for you hard work. :thanks: :thumbsup: :twothumbs :drunk:


Edit to add: the click swith is much lighter than My Q3's. My Q3 has a very stiff switch, sometimes I have hard time to turn it on when my hand is really dry, the dam thing kept slipping forward. Another note, the poch is very nice but I am not much of a pouch guy so I don't really care.


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## redduck (Sep 30, 2005)

Others may disagree but I personally do not want a simple 2-stage switch. To me it only makes turning on/off the light more tedious. When it comes to light my philosophy is more is better. In most of my usage I find my Q3 not bright enough. Occasionally when I need low light, like navigating in the darkened bedroom when the wife is asleep I use my Dorcy 1 AAA. I think in most case, before you reach for a light you already know what level of light you’ll need. What I do want to see in future version however is momentary on capability.


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## redduck (Sep 30, 2005)

A trick I use when even my dorcy 1aaa is "too bright", is to use my pinky to block the lens partilly, this way you can pretty much adjust the light any way you want.


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## ernsanada (Sep 30, 2005)

Top, Fenix 2.0. Bottom, Fenix 2.5







Fenix 2.5






Fenix 2.0






Left, Fenix 2.5. Right, Fenix 2.0 at 5.5"






Left, Fenix 2.5. Right, Fenix 2.0 at 5.5"







Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting


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## redduck (Sep 30, 2005)

Nice pictures! Your 2.5 is noticeably brighter.


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## jng (Sep 30, 2005)

I got my 2 L1Ps today from 4sevens. Had to wait until I got home to try them out (no batteries at work). 

I may have a defective switch on 1 of them. Light (a) won't turn on when I clicked the switch. Light (b) works fine. When I swapped the endcaps, light(a) worked and light(b) turned on but flickers occasionally. I read about how someone else had to tighten down the module with snap ring pliers. I tried the same thing but they were already tight.

Anyone experiencing the same thing? Any ideas?


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## 4sevens (Sep 30, 2005)

jng said:


> I got my 2 L1Ps today from 4sevens. Had to wait until I got home to try them out (no batteries at work).
> 
> I may have a defective switch on 1 of them. Light (a) won't turn on when I clicked the switch. Light (b) works fine. When I swapped the endcaps, light(a) worked and light(b) turned on but flickers occasionally. I read about how someone else had to tighten down the module with snap ring pliers. I tried the same thing but they were already tight.
> 
> Anyone experiencing the same thing? Any ideas?



As many have reported and I've experienced it myself, the
switch in the tail is loose and needs to be screwed in with a pair
of needle nose pliers or clip ring pliers. If you're not comfortable with
that send it back and I'll tighten it. If that doesn't solve it I'll
get it replaced for you.


----------



## jng (Sep 30, 2005)

4sevens said:


> As many have reported and I've experienced it myself, the
> switch in the tail is loose and needs to be screwed in with a pair
> of needle nose pliers or clip ring pliers. If you're not comfortable with
> that send it back and I'll tighten it. If that doesn't solve it I'll
> get it replaced for you.



Hey 4sevens,

How tight does it need to be? I tried to tighten it down w/ snap ring pliers, but it already seemed pretty snug. I didn't crank down on it though (didn't want to slip and and scratch my new light  )
Thanks.


----------



## 4sevens (Sep 30, 2005)

jng said:


> Hey 4sevens,
> 
> How tight does it need to be? I tried to tighten it down w/ snap ring pliers, but it already seemed pretty snug. I didn't crank down on it though (didn't want to slip and and scratch my new light  )
> Thanks.



It doesn't need to be very tight... just not loose. You might have switch
problem. Send the tail only back - if you need my address, email me.


----------



## LifeNRA (Oct 1, 2005)

Just an update on my brothers 2.5 Premium.

He dropped it on the cement today from a hight of about 6 feet. A few scratches on the bezel but other than that it is working just fine. Time to use the lanyard I guess. I tried to tell him but older brothers never listen to their siblings. So far he says he is very impressed with it and it has worked just fine. He says that he just drops it in his pants pocket at work and forgets about it. 

I was looking at it again tonight and the beam is impressive. It actually makes for a very good walking around light. Good throw with nice side spill.
And the one that had the greenish beam, the sister in law got that one  , actually does just fine outdoors. The tint is not really noticable outside at all.

Being able to use common AA batteries is the most amazing thing about these lights I think. Lithiums would seem ideal according to the run graphs others have posted.


----------



## 4sevens (Oct 1, 2005)

Interesting discoveries while removing the converter from the fenix...

Threading is very close to PEU's NECOA BL. In fact the head screws right
into a BL's tail  And the BL head screws right into the fenix's body. 
Weirdness.

The McGizmo 18mm reflector drops right in... it's 1-2mm taller but it fits perfectly. However, there needs to be a way to hold the reflector in.

The Fenix's 1.2mm lens is exactly the same diameter as the one that goes
into the orb raw. Since I destroyed the head trying to get the LE out 
the AR lens is going into my raw.


----------



## 4sevens (Oct 1, 2005)

Well, I had to take some shots 

PICTURES 

Note the clip I found from the ultra G govt issue fit perfectly.
And also the fenix head fits on the Necoa BL


----------



## Haesslich (Oct 1, 2005)

Hmmm... anyone got any spare NEOCA heads? I think I've discovered a way to mod my Fenix L1P.  And also let us know how much the AR lens improves the RAW's output, will you? At least the modding effort was made, even if the light got trashed.


----------



## Lunal_Tic (Oct 1, 2005)

Hey 4x7.

Did you know that your Fenix link to JSB's doesn't have anything on that page?
Is he supposed to have them soon?

-LT


----------



## voodoogreg (Oct 1, 2005)

OK I am sold. who has the L1P 2.5 ready to ship? VDG


----------



## 4sevens (Oct 1, 2005)

Lunal_Tic said:


> Hey 4x7.
> 
> Did you know that your Fenix link to JSB's doesn't have anything on that page?
> Is he supposed to have them soon?
> ...



I think he just ran out of stock. 



voodoogreg said:


> OK I am sold. who has the L1P 2.5 ready to ship? VDG



Nobody 
JSB should have some back in stock in a one or two weeks.

He also has a handful L1 black and silver v2.0's that may show up anytime.
hint hint


----------



## jng (Oct 1, 2005)

4sevens said:


> It doesn't need to be very tight... just not loose. You might have switch
> problem. Send the tail only back - if you need my address, email me.



Sent you a PM.
Thanks.


----------



## jeffb (Oct 1, 2005)

Received Fenix L1P V2.5 today, ordered from JS Burly.

This is a very impressive light, IMO. 
"Presentation case" is nice and the light well protected.

Fit and finish, seem excellent, minor consistent machining marks on reflector don't appear to effect beam.

Beam "color" is very white, it compares favorably to an LE now in an Aleph 1 that seems very white to me. (A light that I have always really liked the beam "color")

When compared to my whitest, McGizmo PD, it has just a very slight "pink" cast..................but when not compared to any other LED , and on a white wall or beige carpet, it is very very good and for me a great color. (that I would call "very white")

Beam pattern is similiar to posted pictures; circular, smooth and a very bright "center", with great throw for an AA.

For testing comparisons, TnC AA, 200ma and 350ma..................LED's in TnC are both white, however the Fenix seemed whiter, and brigher than both (the 350ma is "slightly" brighter when compared to the 200ma.) On a 10 scale, very arbitrarily, the 200 would be a 5, the 350, 6 and the Fenix, an 8. (compared all, with new Duracell AA "coppertops")

Certainly, from a machining standpoint, I much prefer the TnC lights, also the switching mechanism, TNC's, have "twisty" which I prefer.........................however,

for the money, the Fenix in my opinion ='s a great light, very usable and perhaps the best value for a small carry light that I have seen. I did compare to a Q3, and the Fenix is actually brighter, and the whole package, much preferable. (again, just my opinion)

This light competes with much more expensive lights and get's my vote for the "best" light value of 2005.

jeffb


----------



## GJW (Oct 1, 2005)

jeffb said:


> ....I much prefer the TnC lights, also the switching mechanism,
> TNC's, have "twisty" which I prefer.



As others have noted the Fenix works as a twisty just fine.
Just click it on and then use the tail to twist on and off.


----------



## jeffb (Oct 1, 2005)

GJW,

Thanks for the info, I somehow missed that ..........also,

I will be interested in reports of from CPF'ers that carry and use this light; those reports will tell us more about long term durability.

jeffb


----------



## Trashman (Oct 1, 2005)

Well, just got my L1P in the mail and it's still dark light out, but, I can already say "wow!" I had no idea a 1w Luxeon could be this bright. Compared to my Minimag drop in NG750 with TWOJ, I'd say the hotspot is definitely brighter! Doesn't have as wide a beam, though. It looks to be so bright, that I'm wondering if the batteries in my MM are good! (although, being regulated, it shouldn't matter, because I know they're not THAT bad) Can't wait to see it at night.


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## powernoodle (Oct 1, 2005)

I discussed this in TIN's review so I won't belabor it here, but I'll still take the QIII over the Fenix if I had to chose just one. With an R123, the QIII puts out noticeably more light - more flood and throw. 4sevens noted that comparing a R123 light to a AA light isn't a valid comparison, but the lights are similarly sized, similarly priced single LED, single battery lights. And who says a comparison has to be fair anyway. 

For my purposes, I'll take the QIII/R123 combo. I regularly swap in a freshly charged battery, and runtime is not an issue _for me_ as I never use an EDC light like this but for, at most, several short bursts a day. Same size, same price, more light.

If the AA battery, the runtime, etc. are more important than output, then you'll like the Fenix better. Nothing wrong about that.

This is not to diss the Fenix, because I'm a fan. But it hasn't supplanted the QIII in my book just yet. 

best regards


----------



## Phaserburn (Oct 1, 2005)

Just got my Fenix today. I love it; can't remember being this satisfied with a new light in quite some time.

I would agree with Powernoodle on preferring the Q3 over the Fenix as an EDC; with flupic circuit regulation and a li-ion, it's the superior and more versatile performer - as an EDC. But, for around the house, etc, the Fenix wins for me. I love the ability to get hours of runtime on a nimh cell. Bright but not a hot rod, the Fenix does household pocket and candlemode duty with style. And it's feel and quality are top notch.


----------



## redduck (Oct 1, 2005)

powernoodle said:


> I discussed this in TIN's review so I won't belabor it here, but I'll still take the QIII over the Fenix if I had to chose just one. With an R123, the QIII puts out noticeably more light - more flood and throw. 4sevens noted that comparing a R123 light to a AA light isn't a valid comparison, but the lights are similarly sized, similarly priced single LED, single battery lights. And who says a comparison has to be fair anyway.
> 
> For my purposes, I'll take the QIII/R123 combo. I regularly swap in a freshly charged battery, and runtime is not an issue _for me_ as I never use an EDC light like this but for, at most, several short bursts a day. Same size, same price, more light.
> 
> ...




Powernoodle, What type of R123/charger are you using? What's the voltage? Is your Q3 stock, old or new version? How long have you been using R123 in your Q3. I am really interested to know. I have an old version Q3 and am thinking getting the same setup. But I did heard it's not kosher to use rechageable in Q3 because of the higher voltege. If you have already using this setup for a while then it's probably safe.


----------



## Hookd_On_Photons (Oct 1, 2005)

The more I play with the Fenix, the more I like it. Its physical properties and beam quality are very similar to an Arc LS. (I know... blasphemy! But compare what a computer that would be considered middle-of-the-line today to a three year old top-of-the-line model.)

These beamshots on top were taken about 3 feet away from the wall. The Quantum III is on the left, with a fresh SF-123. The Fenix L1P v2.5 is on the right, with a fresh Energizer 2500mAH NiMH AA battery.

The images of my garage were taken from about 10 feet away from the door. I attempted to center the hotspot on the doorknob.

The pictures don't _quite_ do justice to the QIII. It appears greenish in the photo, but not to my eyes (I believe the bin is SW0K). I have no idea what the bin of the Fenix's Luxeon is. Also, the QIII yields a wider field of dim illumination which is not picked up well by the digital camera.





Form factor and beam quality are close enough that I consider them equal. If I already had rechargeable 123s, I'd probably lean towards the QIII. As it is, I'm going with the Fenix, because I can feed it with NiMH AAs. For my non-flashaholic wife, there's no question that the availability of AA batteries makes the Fenix a better choice than the QIII.


----------



## powernoodle (Oct 1, 2005)

redduck said:


> Powernoodle, What type of R123/charger are you using? What's the voltage? Is your Q3 stock, old or new version? How long have you been using R123 in your Q3. I am really interested to know.



I have an older QIII Can't speak as to the voltgage question, but I've been using a variety of R123s - ones that came with the Nano charger, Batterystation batteries, Goldengadget.com batteries, and the new "MP" batteries, and 3 different chargers (nano, battery station, goldengadget). All I can tell you is that its all worked fine for me.


----------



## UnknownVT (Oct 1, 2005)

*redduck* wrote: _"Powernoodle, What type of R123/charger are you using? What's the voltage? Is your Q3 stock, old or new version? How long have you been using R123 in your Q3. I am really interested to know. I have an old version Q3 and am thinking getting the same setup. But I did heard it's not kosher to use rechageable in Q3 because of the higher voltege."_ 

I'm not Powernoodle but could this thread help?

Nuwai Q3 with RCR123 + Nano Charger 

thread of Fenix L1 with direct comparison with the Q3

Fenix L1 v2.5 (Non-Premium)


----------



## wwglen (Oct 1, 2005)

One thing to remember on the comparision between the QIII on R123 and the L1P.

The runtim n the QIII is 20 minutes or so compaired to 3 HOURS for the Fenix.

wwglen


----------



## joema (Oct 1, 2005)

powernoodle said:


> ...I'll take the QIII/R123 combo...runtime is not an issue for me...


It's a good thing run time isn't an issue for you, since the Fenix has about FOUR TIMES the run time to 50% (on a lithium AA) as the QIII does  Keep that charger close by!!


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Oct 1, 2005)

My L1P finally arrived today and I quickly stuck a 2300 nimh energizer in the charger to top it off while fumbling with the lanyard through the holes trick... finally I grabbed a wooden toothpick and used it to stuff it through the two tiny holes.
When I finally fire it up I was annoyed by the half dozen or so tiny specks of dust inside on the reflector that lit up. I waited till about 9pm for it to get dark and took a mile walk down main streets and side streets in all sorts of lighting conditions. When I got back home I used it in the garage on tailstand to get my laundry out of the dryer and then tailstand in my room to put up my clothes.

This is my first luxeon based light, all my other LED lights have 5mm in them so I do not have much to compare it with but here is my try at a comparison... Remember the 2AA penlights with the 222 bulbs (glass glob magnifier) , well my xnova 8led AA is about like it comparitively and the fenix is like a nice 2D flashlight with krypton bulb. The difference is remarkable and the throw of the fenix is about.... 1/2 a block in usefulness or about 50-80 feet. I was watching my xnova being washed out by streetlights and the fenix doesn't seem to be phased by them. The humidity is way up over here as we had a storm go through today so I had a little of the smoke laser light effect going on with it..

As for the tint..... on tailstand I see blue looking at it, probably the lens mostly and when using it the tint seems a very slight tinge of yellow with possibly a little towards green.... looks white enough to not annoy me at all.


----------



## Solstice (Oct 1, 2005)

powernoodle- I get your point about output vs. price vs. runtime, etc. You have a very practical and logical reasoning. I don't always choose lights logically (the fact that I have so many lights is a testament to this  ), but for me, I always imagine an EDC as "which light would I really want with me if I can't get back to home base." In this case, the Fenix would win hands down over a QIII with RCR123 since I wouldn't be taking the ability to recharge nor runtime for granted. For travel, the ability to get a battery anywhere is a big factor (I for one don't need to be carrying ANOTHER charger for some gadget). The fact that the output competes at all with a QIII is a minor miracle IMHO, but the fact that it does so for over 2hrs is icing on the cake. Of course, this is all in total agreement with what you said- no argument.

My only point of contention: The Fenix IS noticably smaller. Try putting one in your front pocket with your wallet, then the other and see which one you find more annoying.


----------



## redduck (Oct 1, 2005)

Thanks guys for the info on R123. I'll definitely check them out. Instead of retiring it to the glove box, I may just have some fun with it.


----------



## Stainless (Oct 2, 2005)

*Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

The original thread has exceeded 200 posts, so I am beginning this new thread.

The original thread is here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1107370#post1107370


----------



## neogoon (Oct 2, 2005)

Got my L1P 2.5 yesterday; fit and finish are very nice, and it was a lot smaller than I expected. I put a koppo wrap on it so I would have something to hold on to (the lanyard is clever but I find a finger loop is more useful) and used it walking on a wooded path and across a golf course. 

The throw was impressive and useful, as was the spill, which was brightened the path and the woods in a 12-foot diameter just in front of me.

A very impressive piece of work.


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## Stainless (Oct 2, 2005)

This thread has exceeded 200 posts, so I have started a new thread here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1107399#post1107399

Moderators please close "Part 1"
Thanks


----------



## gb6491 (Oct 2, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

I received my Fenix L1P v2.5 Friday and want to say a big "thank you" to 4sevens for the GB.

This is a very nice light in both form and function. I am well pleased with it.
The light has a warmer color range luxeon as compared to my Q3. 

The sheath is very well made, but due the the fabric used and method of construction, I find it very difficult to return the light to it when worn behind the hip. This means I will need to carry it my back pocket next to my wallet as I do the Q3. The Fenix has very little bezel protecting the lens and I hope that does not prove a problem in regards to scratching the lens.

I'll not get into output/throw/runtime comparison discussion as I feel that is up to each indivdual's preference. My Q3 has a two stage switch and with the two levels of light will probably remain my EDC (with either the CR123
or RCR123). I'm sure the L1P will see a lot of use also.

Some not to scientific beam shots: http://gbrannon.bizhat.com/lite.htm

Regards,
Greg


----------



## racerx2oo3 (Oct 2, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

Still no Fenix....too bad. I had really hoped that today would be the day. i guess monday will have to do. I had to drown my sorrows in a glass of Booker's bourbon this evening...actually I just love Booker's I but I'll use this as my excuse... Hope everyone who has gotten their Fenix is having a nice weekend, heck I hope everyone is having a nice weekend....


Racer X


----------



## DDS (Oct 2, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

Received my three lights in MD yesterday. Very nice lights and consistent beams/tint in all three. One light had a touchy switch but tightening resolved the problem. Will be great stuffing stocker for my two sons for XMAS !

Thank you very much, 4sevens for all your hard work 

Dave


----------



## LitFuse (Oct 2, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

Is this still necessary with the new software?

Peter 



Stainless said:


> The original thread has exceeded 200 posts, so I am beginning this new thread.
> 
> The original thread is here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1107370#post1107370


----------



## this_is_nascar (Oct 2, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

I can't believe this thread went to a Part-2. This is crazy. Are you telling me this software can't handle more than a few hundred messages? It seems the folks on the "bigger" boards can handle threads with thousands of messages. Between this issue and the "marking new threads marked" issue, it making CPF less and less enjoyable to visit. WTF.


----------



## pokkuhlag (Oct 2, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*



this_is_nascar said:


> I can't believe this thread went to a Part-2. This is crazy. Are you telling me this software can't handle more than a few hundred messages? It seems the folks on the "bigger" boards can handle threads with thousands of messages. Between this issue and the "marking new threads marked" issue, it making CPF less and less enjoyable to visit. WTF.



Chill nascar and take some time to read this post:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1100003&postcount=14

But not all users are aware of that.


----------



## this_is_nascar (Oct 2, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*



pokkuhlag said:


> Chill nascar and take some time to read this post:
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1100003&postcount=14
> 
> But not all users are aware of that.



Maybe they're not aware of it because the software marked that particular new post as read, before folks could read it.


----------



## chanamasala (Oct 2, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

Got mine the other day and I am very happy with it. Looks so much brighter than my 2AA miniMag with 1w Luxeon. Can't see myself using that very much anymore. $23 shipped anbody wants it. Light gray. Anyhow, the fenix shines tree branches up high about 50 feet away which I like. I have a Streamlight 4AA 1w Luxeon that I like a lot and this is about 60% of it. I've been thinking about going c123 with the Q3 but can't get myself to do it. That's a big outlay for a bit more light, more battery hassle, no stand-on-end action, and less high output time. I also like the design of the fenix better anyhow.

I have had clicker probs that I hope don't show up later. They just went away after screwing and unscrewing the battery cap on about 10 times. The base thingy didn't seem loose to me so I didn't even bother with needle nose pliers. The clicker is quite audible though. I'd rather have it silent I think.

I ordered the $30 Coast 1 AA 1.25w from Sears.com and hope to compare them soon. 1/2" bigger on that one though.


----------



## nerdgineer (Oct 2, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

(deleted) Misunderstanding, I think....


----------



## LightObsession (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*



chanamasala said:


> I ordered the $30 Coast 1 AA 1.25w from Sears.com and hope to compare them soon. 1/2" bigger on that one though.



Please report on the Sears (Coast) 1AA when you get it. I'm curious about it. It's not on the Coast web site.


----------



## Orion (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

I finally got mine on Saturday. I put in a basic ol' Copper Top alkaline that's been in my battery drawer for a while (it's still in there), and I must have won some luxeon lottery because mine is only slightly in the cool range and the side spill is better than what I was led to believe with the reviews. Excellent fit and finish, much like that of an Arc. SO much better than the Q3. Now, the Q3 with the 20mm refector in it (regular CR123) is brighter at the hotspot, but when the original refector is in the Q3, the L1P has a greater hotspot, with not as much of the flood of the Q3 (with original reflector). 

The L1P is slightly cooler than my Q3, but the Q3 luxeon was replaced with a TWOJ a while back. 

I'm now under the quandary of which one to carry. I may mixed it up from time to time. The L1P is skinnier and uses redily available batteries, but the Q3 has the two stage switch, the brighter overall output, and also has a UCL.

Oh well. Not a BAD situation to be in (trying to decide which one to carry). 

Edited to add: I wonder what the output of this would be with a AA lithium. Perhaps I need to find some.


----------



## Lunal_Tic (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

Think we could petition the Fenix folks to put a "normal" clickie in it? I've only carried mine for a bit but the reverse clickie is killing me. I even tried 4x7s method of partially unscrewing the tail but that's really not acceptable.

I really like the light except for the clickie and that's a big exception for me. I'll give it a week or so to see if I can get used to it but then it becomes "just another nice light" rather than an EDC candidate.

-LT


----------



## this_is_nascar (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*



Lunal_Tic said:


> Think we could petition the Fenix folks to put a "normal" clickie in it? I've only carried mine for a bit but the reverse clickie is killing me. I even tried 4x7s method of partially unscrewing the tail but that's really not acceptable.
> 
> I really like the light except for the clickie and that's a big exception for me. I'll give it a week or so to see if I can get used to it but then it becomes "just another nice light" rather than an EDC candidate.
> 
> -LT



I've taken a tailcap apart and the clicky is a standalone componant. I'd expect a replacement that yields a "normal" clicky function would just be a straight drop-in. If Mr. Fenix could call his switch supplier and ask if they have a normal clicky in that exact form-factor, it should work nicely.


----------



## benh (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

A normal clickie would be cool. I'd really like to see some kind of a 2 stage switch/mod so I could run at a lower output for close up task lighting. Either way, for me, the Fenix as it is now is the best EDC sized light I have.

I love it.


----------



## Lunal_Tic (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

Actually the switch is one of the things that made me bail on the Q3. I like the Fenix better over all but to really get use out of it I've got to carry it. Since I've got a number of cr123 lights I like for EDC it will be hard to convert without the switch change.

-LT

PS 4x7s did ask for ideas to pass along to them but I don't know how that will go.


----------



## phatalbert (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

After I noticed how easily accesible the fenix switch was (it actually unscrewed and fell out at my last battery change) I began to wonder if I could switch it with my RiverRock 2 stage headlamp switch. It's probably not possible, but I'm desperate for a 2 stage in my fenix.


----------



## Solstice (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

I actually really like the Fenix switch (although I agree that 2 stage would be sweet!). I like the fact that it won't come on accidentally, yet is easy to press with a nice crisp feel. I find it much easier to operate on the fly than my HDS, partially because the bit of extra length on Fenix lets me get a better grip on it, partially because the switch is just easier to press. The Fenix is very quick to "spring into action." The only thing I would like is some kind of more obvious tactile method of telling the head from the tail while its in my pocket. Even with the lanyard on, I often have to feel both ends to find the switch.


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## Archangel (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

I may be the lone voice, but if i'm going to spend extra money on a new switch, it's going to be a low-resistance momentary-only version as i generally use a small light in small doses. Twisting the tail is perfectly fine for the relatively rare long use of an EDC. After adding NyoGel i can do it one-handed, though i'd use two anyway unless i couldn't. (That's what *she* said.)


----------



## redduck (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

It’s such a PITA to turn on/off my Q3, not only because it has reverse clickie but also(more so) because the switch is sooo stiff. Fenix has a much lighter clickie and because I use NiMH battery in it, so I don’t mind leaving it on for a much longer period of time than otherwise, the switch becomes a less issue. But still I very much like to see a normal clickie available for Fenix.


----------



## redduck (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

I personally do not want a low-high-off 2-stage switch, it’ll only make turning on or off more of a chore. In most case I don’t feel the light is too bright. When I really need low light I always carry 1xAA Dorcy. I attached 2 small split rings to the light and a large split ring to those smaller ones and clip the large one to a belt key chain clip. This way you’ll always know where to find the switch and the access is quicker than pocket or pouch carry in most case. Sometimes I don’t even have to remove the light from the clip.


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## Archangel (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

Man, if the Fenix has a lighter clickie than the Q3 than i'm definitely not in a hurry to pick up Nuwai's offering.

On a completely other note, i don't think anyone has mentioned the donut hole affect at close range. On my L1v2 it disappears at about 2". On my L1Pv2.5 it's about 4". Not that that affects anything in actual use, but it's interesting nonetheless.


----------



## daloosh (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

Thought I'd post some pictures of my Fenix, love it!
('cept that damn reverse clickie!)























cheers,
daloosh


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## MVB (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*



Archangel said:


> Man, if the Fenix has a lighter clickie than the Q3 than i'm definitely not in a hurry to pick up Nuwai's offering.


In side-by-side testing I don't feel any difference in the amount of pressure needed to activate my L1P v2.5 and my Q3 with the new 'tactical' reverse clickie. The Q3 needs to be pressed slightly farther than the Fenix, though. (That is, the Nuwai switch has more 'travel' which is still rather short. The Fenix switch travel is just very short by comparisson...)



> On a completely other note, i don't think anyone has mentioned the donut hole affect at close range. On my L1v2 it disappears at about 2". On my L1Pv2.5 it's about 4". Not that that affects anything in actual use, but it's interesting nonetheless.


That _is_ interesting. At the 4 inch distance where the hole disappears, the entire spill beam is only 6 inches in diameter. Clearly, this is not the best light for extreme close-up work. (But we knew that already, didn't we?  )

Also of interest; _at the moment_ my L1P is brighter than my Q3, but it's not a fair comparisson since the Fenix has a fresh battery, and the Nuwai has over a half hour of use on its CR123... :devil:


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## PocketBeam (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

I got mine on Friday. I have been playing with it all weekend and even did my own run down test with some other lights side by side. This light is awesome for the price. It matches my XM-3 2AA light which uses a Lux III. (By matches I mean it is comparable in output and runtime and even throw. Only side by side can you see the Fenix is slightly less bright.) For my city test with lots of light polution I found the throw to be useful to 50 feet. I even ran it under the water in the sink to make sure it was water proof. Once again for the price this light is awesome. Considuring it runs off a standard AA it is awesome even if higher priced. My wife says it is too bright, as she shields her eyes. So as someone suggested, a two stage switch would be great and about the only thing missing from perfection.

Some people have mentioned the reverse clickie. I have lights that are normal and reverse clickie. While I like the normal clickie more, I don't see the big deal. If I need quick burst then the normal clickie is best. But for normal lighting any clickie is good. Maybe you just need to get used to it...

I tried it with and with out the lanyard. And I like the look better without it. It is small enough and easy to grip so I don't think I will drop it. And it is small enough to easily pocket when not holding it. The quality of the light is top notch. I agree, flashlight of the year. Year I can't wait to see what Fenix does next.

David (4sevens), thanks so much for doing this. Without this group buy I would not have bought the flashlight and I would have missed out. I have done business with you before and you are always very quick and efficiant. The updates are apprieciatted and kept me from wondering. I hope that a few bad apples don't stop all the updates from happening, as that would lower the expieriance. Thanks so much for putting up with the hassles on this. I am very happy with my light. OK, now how can I buy two more at GB prices?


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## DarthLumen (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

Just received my two L1P's today and am extremely impressed. WOW....Pound for Pound, this is a bad boy!

However, one of my units does not have the blueish tint to the lens (like the other) and the light flickers and dims when the clickie is pressed. I hope it's a version 2.5. 

I'm thinking that the flickering may be an issuse with the tailcap. Someone mentioned taking it apart. Forgive my ignorance, but how is this accomplished? I'm hoping the solution is simply to tighten something down.

Thanks.


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## 4sevens (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*



Archangel said:


> Man, if the Fenix has a lighter clickie than the Q3 than i'm definitely not in a hurry to pick up Nuwai's offering.
> 
> On a completely other note, i don't think anyone has mentioned the donut hole affect at close range. On my L1v2 it disappears at about 2". On my L1Pv2.5 it's about 4". Not that that affects anything in actual use, but it's interesting nonetheless.



Note that with a parabolic reflector, the more perfect the reflector, the
greater the distance before the donut dissappears. And perfect parabolic
reflector (which doesn't exist) will product parallel light and the donut hole
should always exist regardless of distance..... also thats assuming an infinitely
small point of light from which the parabolic reflector will reflector from 

In short, this is one way to tell that the v2.5 reflector better than v2.0


----------



## Hookd_On_Photons (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

DarthLumen: Unscrew the tailcap and look inside. You'll see the spring in the center, and a metal rim with two little holes positioned opposite each other. Use a snap-ring pliers or similar tool to screw in the switch assembly (a needle nose pliers or maybe even tweezers could be used, in a pinch). I had to tighten mine about one full turn, and that fixed the flickering problem.

I'll add another vote for a drop-in two-stage clicky. I've got one in a Q-III, and it really does expand the range of usage options. The Fenix's small, bright spot can be a drawback for some close-range tasks.


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## DarthLumen (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*



Hookd_On_Photons said:


> DarthLumen: Unscrew the tailcap and look inside. You'll see the spring in the center, and a metal rim with two little holes positioned opposite each other. Use a snap-ring pliers or similar tool to screw in the switch assembly (a needle nose pliers or maybe even tweezers could be used, in a pinch). I had to tighten mine about one full turn, and that fixed the flickering problem.



Hookd_On_Photons: It worked!!!! Thanks.


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## Solstice (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

Hooray!! I got my Fenix L1P v2.5 today!

Since I've been EDCing the v2.0 for several weeks now, the marveling at the quality of this light that some of you have just discovered is a bit diminished for me. That said, I am NOT dissapointed. In fact, I had very much planned to continue EDCing the v2.0 as it's got some beauty marks by now, most likely has longer battery life, and is bright enough for me. The 2.5 was going to be a shelf queen. However, after playing with my new 2.5, it's the one that is now going to be doing duty in my pocket. 

Brightness: As others have said, the difference isn't night and day, but I can tell that the 2.5 is a bit brighter. I switched out the frequently used lithium from the 2.0 into the 2.5 and put a fresh one in the 2.0- the brightness in the two lights now looks to be about the same.

AR coating: its there, but on the 2.5, its much less noticeable to the naked eye. On the 2.0, there was a very obvious rich purple gleam to the glass if viewed on an angle, the 2.5 has a subtle baby blue gleam. Also, the AR created an obvious purple halo around the beam that is absent in the 2.5. While I kind of thought the purple was cool, it did get a bit distracting, so I prefer the 2.5 beam a little.

Reflector: more "mirror-like" than the 2.0, though finer concentric rings are still visible. There are a few dot-like imperfections/specs of dust, but they don't seem to affect beam quality unless you are really looking for them close up against a white surface. The beam is pretty much perfect- the slightly longer focused "donut-hole" that 4sevens described above is evident.

Tint: This is the main reason I'm switching to the new light. Of course, tint has very little to do with the light itself and more to do with the luxeon lottery- if I had a v2.0 with the LED from my 2.5, I'd probably use that for the sake of runtime. My 2.0 has a decently tinted LED- its pretty white, but has a slight yellow cast that tends to wash out colors- a common characteristic of several of my luxeons. The 2.5 has a much whiter LED that errs just on the side of purple- nicer IMHO. In fact, it competes with HDS for "whiteness," formerly the whitest of my LEDs. I like the new tint enough to make the switch of my EDC. 

Otherwise, all the accollades that have already been stated apply. I do like the printing on the milled flat over the 2.0 position. The only other change I can see is that they changed the lanyard material from a rounded rope to more of a flat ribbon like material. I'm sure the 2.5 will get a few licks on it and won't be pristine anymore, but I like both of these lights enough to consider them "keepers" so I'm not going to worry about cosmetics. They are different, yet similar enough to be considered "backups" of each other.

Thanks again 4sevens! Can't wait to see what both Fenix and modders alike come up with next!


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## Archangel (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

I don't want everyone who owns a Fenix to post how their AR affects the beam ('cause we'd be at Part 3 in about an hour and a half), but this is interesting, because my L1Pv2.5 definitely has the purple halo you describe. I guess that means i got one of the "earlier" ones. I wonder if there's a correlation between those Fenix with switch issues and those with the seemingly new AR glass.




Solstice said:


> AR coating: its there, but on the 2.5, its much less noticeable to the naked eye. On the 2.0, there was a very obvious rich purple gleam to the glass if viewed on an angle, the 2.5 has a subtle baby blue gleam. Also, the AR created an obvious purple halo around the beam that is absent in the 2.5. While I kind of thought the purple was cool, it did get a bit distracting, so I prefer the 2.5 beam a little.


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## this_is_nascar (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*



Archangel said:


> I don't want everyone who owns a Fenix to post how their AR affects the beam ('cause we'd be at Part 3 in about an hour and a half), but this is interesting, because my L1Pv2.5 definitely has the purple halo you describe. I guess that means i got one of the "earlier" ones. I wonder if there's a correlation between those Fenix with switch issues and those with the seemingly new AR glass.



In my case, there was no correlation.


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## Lynx_Arc (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

I finally ran down my first charge on my 2300 nimh energizer.... at the end when it wasn't very bright at all I hooked an ammeter on the 10amp scale and got a measurement of about 90 ma across the removed tailcap... probably about 40-50ma to the LED and it was still putting out useful light that wasn't tinted bad like some underpowered 5mm LEDs are. I measured a little over 800ma fresh off the charger, I think the 100ma second stage would be fine for increasing runtime dramatically.


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## pd54 (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

I've had my Fenix L1P for almost a week now, and I am liking it even more. By itself, the tint looks extremely good; when comparing it to a flashlight with a whiter LED, it still looks good, but it has a slight purpleish hue. Overall, I like this light a lot! Here's some questions I have about it:

I have 4 Energizer 2500mAh batteries that I am not using in any other light. I'm on my 3rd battery (I let the first run down a little ways, then when I replaced it it became much brighter. I let the second battery run down a little bit, but not as much as the first. After I replaced the second battery, I noticed a slight improvement). Since I have fresh batteries, I might as well change them out when it's even just a little less bright. Will it harm the batteries to charge them again even if they have only been used for a short time? I have the Energizer 15 minute charger, btw...don't know if that makes a difference.

Another strange thing I noticed about this light. Occasionally when I press the clickie to shut it off, it will not shut off (it looks just like quickly tapping the momentary off). Then when I press the clickie 1 more time, it does it again. Then I press it 1 more time, and it will sometimes turn off. It's like this:

Off (flashlight is off)
On (pressed the clickie to turn it on - this is normal)
*On (pressed to turn off but stays on)
**On (pressed to turn off but stays on)
***Off (sometimes turns off - may repeat cycle 1 more time)

NOTE: This seems to happen more frequently when the clickie is pressed twice rapidly. If this is confusing I can try to take a video or describe it better :thinking: .

Any thoughts about this?



By the way, what exactly does the "reverse clickie" mean? Does that mean that once it's on, it has momentary off when pressed slightly? Doesn't this almost seem a little...pointless? :shrug: .


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## 4sevens (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*



pd54 said:


> I've had my Fenix L1P for almost a week now, and I am liking it even more. By itself, the tint looks extremely good; when comparing it to a flashlight with a whiter LED, it still looks good, but it has a slight purpleish hue. Overall, I like this light a lot! Here's some questions I have about it:
> 
> I have 4 Energizer 2500mAh batteries that I am not using in any other light. I'm on my 3rd battery (I let the first run down a little ways, then when I replaced it it became much brighter. I let the second battery run down a little bit, but not as much as the first. After I replaced the second battery, I noticed a slight improvement). Since I have fresh batteries, I might as well change them out when it's even just a little less bright. Will it harm the batteries to charge them again even if they have only been used for a short time? I have the Energizer 15 minute charger, btw...don't know if that makes a difference.
> 
> ...




You have a defective switch. If you bought it from me, email me for a 
switch swap.

4sevens


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## savumaki (Oct 3, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*



pd54 said:


> By the way, what exactly does the "reverse clickie" mean? Does that mean that once it's on, it has momentary off when pressed slightly? Doesn't this almost seem a little...pointless? :shrug: .



:rock:My sentiments exactly; why beat a switch to death for a momentary need for light. (and the the controversy rages on :thinking

Karl


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## max3d (Oct 4, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

Two newbie questions of the proud owner of a Fenix 2.5P:

- does anyone know if we can expect a review on the flashligtreviews site any time soon?

- is the light output higher from a 2500mA battery than f.i. a 2000 model or is everything okay as long as the battery can provide the 800 or 900 mA the fenix needs? Is it just a matter of how long it will keep its maximum light level.


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## PocketBeam (Oct 4, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

max3d, maybe we can answer yoru review questions. Remember some people in here have seen as many flashlights as flashlightreviews has.

As for the 2500mA question, one way to think of it as the size of a gas tank for your car. A 2500 mL tank would last longer then a 1600 mL tank. But the gas you put in the tank is the same.

A rechargable nimh or nicd battery has aproximatly 1.2 volts. The voltage stays pretty constant. The milliamp hour rating is how many milliamps it can supply over time. So more milliamps means it can supply more current over time. So basically the mA rating just gives you an idea how long somethign will run. Bigger numbers means longer. BTW, the numbers given by the manufacturer can be off by a few hundred mA, and over time the battery loses capacity.

Keith


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## max3d (Oct 5, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*



PocketBeam said:


> max3d, maybe we can answer yoru review questions. Remember some people in here have seen as many flashlights as flashlightreviews has.
> 
> As for the 2500mA question, one way to think of it as the size of a gas tank for your car. A 2500 mL tank would last longer then a 1600 mL tank. But the gas you put in the tank is the same.
> 
> ...



Hi Keith,

I'm aware of the collective knowledge on this forum, but I'm just looking forward to the systematic and standardized throw and brightness tests on the flashlightreviews site. 

As for the batteries. I understand your explanation of the basics of electronics, but if I remember well from college ages ago, it's a bit more tricky than that. Due to differences in internal resistance of a power supply the voltage drops more or less given a fixed current. Voltage drops shurely means less light on a non controlled Led like Fenix?

Does anybody know if this effect occurs and how much it depends on the specified mAH ratings?


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## AlanP (Oct 6, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

Just got my L1P from JSBurlys today. Very good service from him. Answered all my emails promptly and delivered to the UK in about a week.

Anyway onto the light.........Not sure what version it is (2.0 or 2.5, is there any way of telling the difference?). First impressions? Well apart from a few scuff marks around the bezel and a bit of a dodgy switch (reluctant to work occasionally) it seems a very nice light. I'm not too bothered about the scuff marks as no doubt it would have got them anyway after a bit of use. Re the switch, might just be a bit of dirt that will work it's way loose after a bit of operation, it seems to be improving the more times I use the switch. I'm not convinced about it being 46 lumens max output as stated in the info sheet that came with it. When compared to my Peak Caribbean the Caribbean is obviously brighter than the fenix. Maybe I have a freak 60 lumen Caribbean! Still, it does seem pretty good output for a 1xAA battery.

Very nice belt pouch that comes with it. Not managed to thread the lanyard thru the tailcap holes yet (very tricky). All in all I'll probably EDC it for a while, be a shame to waste such a good belt pouch


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## Orion (Oct 6, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

Another note to add about the new Fenix. I really like the fact that the Luxeon is actually CENTERED within the reflector. I know that there have been many lights out there with either optics or reflectors that weren't centered and it drove lots of people crazy. Glad to see that the Fenix manufacturers got it right.


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## Archangel (Oct 6, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

AlanP -

You should check if your switch needs tightening. The L1P v2.0 has the Fenix logo on the bezel as opposed to a flat. And i agree on both the output and the pouch.


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## AlanP (Oct 6, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*

Archangel -

Thanks for the info. I've tightened the switch as far as I can go and it's still only working intermmitently :-(

Re my version, I must have a 2.5 as logo is on the flat side


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## Haesslich (Oct 6, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*



AlanP said:


> Archangel -
> 
> Thanks for the info. I've tightened the switch as far as I can go and it's still only working intermmitently :-(
> 
> Re my version, I must have a 2.5 as logo is on the flat side



Check the inside of the switch - a few of our members had to use split-ring pliers to twist the switch INSIDE its container till it was snug, which improved the switch problem immensely. Otherwise, talk with JSB about sending the switch back, if it's truly defective.


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## Frenchyled (Oct 6, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*



AlanP said:


> Archangel -
> 
> Thanks for the info. I've tightened the switch as far as I can go and it's still only working intermmitently :-(
> 
> Re my version, I must have a 2.5 as logo is on the flat side



AlanP, I have had the same problem...when I received my L1P, click on didn't produce anything...I tightened the switch and I had intermitent light 

I opened the tail cap and test the contact with the switch unscrewed.. I saw that a bad contact existed between the switch himself and the electronic card..the switch is soldered on the card by two points
I used my iron solder and remade the two small weldings of the switch on the tailcap card...and now it works fine....


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## AlanP (Oct 6, 2005)

*Re: Fenix L1/L1P 1st impressions - please post here - Part 2*



Frenchyled said:


> AlanP, I have had the same problem...when I received my L1P, click on didn't produce anything...I tightened the switch and I had intermitent light
> 
> I opened the tail cap and test the contact with the switch unscrewed.. I saw that a bad contact existed between the switch himself and the electronic card..the switch is soldered on the card by two points
> I used my iron solder and remade the two small weldings of the switch on the tailcap card...and now it works fine....




Thanks Frenchyled. How easy is it to do this? How do you open the tailcap to access the electronic card? My technical knowledge and ability is limited, and I don't want to make things worse than they already are.


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## Frenchyled (Oct 6, 2005)

Ok Alanp..it's not very difficult but you need a needle plier and a small electronic soldering iron

With the needle plier, unscrew the metal part that is in the tail cap, right ?

All the switch details are in these pictures :

Switch of L1P 

You have to weld again the two paws of the switch...before that you can test if it is the same problem as me in just trying the switch directly without the tailcap. Sorry my english is not good enough to explain better, but if another guy understand what I mean, I hope he will post here


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## AlanP (Oct 7, 2005)

Problem appears to be solved. Loose switch after all, doh!


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## savumaki (Oct 7, 2005)

Hi all; well the pair of them finally got here but it was well worth the wait;

Firstly some minor negatives;
-O rings dry (but I had a tube of lube left from a mfg I once worked for)
-one head locked, one not.
-switch slightly loose in one, not installed in the other (it was there, just not 
screwed in)
-ulta clear lens on both.........I think; one for sure since it has a very definite 
purple tint; but the other ?; I think I can see a faint tint but I wonder why they should be so different.

But for the GOOD part; AAAaaaall the things that have been said by others and then some, Both have excellant tints and the outside has NO blemishes. GREAT pocket light. I am looking forward EDC this.
My Q3 (which has more side spill) will have to cool its heals on the shelf for a while.

Karl


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## piper (Oct 7, 2005)

1st impression out of the package was, what a small light!

Beam colour white with a hint of mint, a tiny bit greenish (it could be the lens) when compared to my a bit pinkish Q3 beam.

Very bright with an E2 AA that I have been saving.

Switch good and tight, HA colour good, o-rings lubed nicely. Small imperfection on the battery tube. 

All in all a wonder to behold and a nice little light.

It's a keeper.


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## sakurazaka (Oct 8, 2005)

Seriously a nice light but 2 quick questions;

1. What's exactly is the rings and what do you do with it?
2. How do you change the rubber button?

:huh2:

*EDIT:* 
Ok there seems to be a problem. The light will sometimes dim and flickers a bit until there's no more light! It's back to normal after i shake it vigorously though. Any permanent solution to this? I don't want to keep shaking it


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## BentHeadTX (Oct 8, 2005)

sak,
From what I have read, it sounds like the switch ring is loose. There are instructions how to tighten the switch in this thread and that should take care of your problem. 
My two are on order and time moves slowly...


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## Christoph (Oct 8, 2005)

Great little Light I have sevreral more comming.


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## Inferno (Oct 8, 2005)

First off, Christoph, I want that pocket clip!

I got mine today, and here's what I noticed... the anodizing on the end cap where the switch is seems a slight bit dark green, like on some Surefires, while the rest is black. Only a tad off. The LED isn't centered on mine, but it doesn't make a difference in the beam. Other than that, it's the perfect single AA light! Well, if it had a pocket clip, _then_ it would be perfect...


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## Haesslich (Oct 9, 2005)

Nice use of the new-style PD clip, Cristoph.  What did you use to expand the lanyard hole/holes enough to accept the screws?


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## Billson (Oct 10, 2005)

sakurazaka said:


> Seriously a nice light but 2 quick questions;
> 
> 1. What's exactly is the rings and what do you do with it?
> 2. How do you change the rubber button?
> ...



The rings are extra orings for the waterproofing.

Your switch may be loose. Some members have mentioned that they received their light with loose switches. You can tighten it down with snap ring pliers.


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## Christoph (Oct 10, 2005)

I just tapped the existing holes with a 2-56 tap and 2 flat head screws.They are not super strong.


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## Grummond (Oct 11, 2005)

I just wanted to chime in quickly and say how pleased I am with this light.

I have a particular fondness for lights running on a single aa cell and now this light has made it possible to compete in terms of performance with the QIII, Longbow and so on.

I guess we all have different needs in an EDC but for me this is excellent, good runtime, bright, HAIII, stylish (personal taste of course but to me it just looks plain stylish) and it uses the most common battery in the world, with the option of using Lithium or Ni-Mh depending on your particular needs.

I like many would like to see a normal clicky switch for momentary usage rather than the reverse clicky but then it’s not a huge deal just as preference.

I still value my QIII's, Longbow, KL1 and so on and they will still be used especially with online dealers selling CR123’s at a good price and of course the recent addition of nano chargers and so on but there is something assuring about having a light with you that can be fed with a battery bought from just about any fuel station, corner shop or even found in existing appliances in a pinch.

I’d also just like to thank 4sevens for the outstanding effort in putting the GB together.
Thank you.


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## cave dave (Oct 11, 2005)

Ok I dicovered a new problem with some Fenix lights. I liked my first one (L1P v2.5) from the group buy so much I decide to get another one. This time I went with the Silver L1 v2.0, so i could get a longer burn time.....

major edit: Deleted battery compatibility issue. Always test before post 

Turns out I had a bad batch of Energizer batteries. Light is working just fine.

BTW: the switch unscrews itself! I tightened mine down first thing but then after a couple battery changes it was loose. I think what is happining is the rough edges around the tightening holes catches on the end of the battery compartment and it unscrews. I used some fine sandpaper to smooth everything and added some silicone grease on the battery tube end.


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## carlsjrman (Oct 12, 2005)

thanks for the info. in your opinion, how does the L1 v2.0 compare to the L1P v.2.5? and how do you like the silver color compared the black haIII?


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## ernsanada (Oct 12, 2005)

Top Fenix L1, Middle, L1P 2.0, Bottom, L1P 2.5






Left, L1, Middle, L1P 2.0, Right, L1P 2.5 at 4"







Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting


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## Mr. Blue (Oct 12, 2005)

my 2.0P and 2.5P are two of the best tinted lights I have owned...white but not the blue-white that looks weird at night against foliage, great contrast.
The amount of light from the business end is just astonishing considering the crap AA lights I first saw 40 years ago. These are a great product.


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## sakurazaka (Oct 12, 2005)

Billson said:


> The rings are extra orings for the waterproofing.
> 
> Your switch may be loose. Some members have mentioned that they received their light with loose switches. You can tighten it down with snap ring pliers.


IC thanks. I manage to get around it by screwing in the tail cap _real_ tight. So is this still a switch problem? Just for the knowledge how exactly do i use the pliers? Just put the end of the pliers into the 2 dots on the metal thingy inside the tail cap and twist around? :shrug: 


BTW anyone tested this with Panasonic Oxyrides battery? :naughty: 
Suppose to offer brighter and longer lasting performance. It's 1.7v though.


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## onthebeam (Oct 12, 2005)

sakurazaka said:


> IC thanks. I manage to get around it by screwing in the tail cap _real_ tight. So is this still a switch problem? Just for the knowledge how exactly do i use the pliers? Just put the end of the pliers into the 2 dots on the metal thingy inside the tail cap and twist around? :shrug:
> 
> 
> BTW anyone tested this with Panasonic Oxyrides battery? :naughty:
> Suppose to offer brighter and longer lasting performance. It's 1.7v though.


I have been using the Oxyrides in other flashlights I own. The Streamlight Jr. Luxeon is noticeably brighter with the Oxyrides. For my Fenix, I have an Energizer E2 lithium in there since the runtimes were incredible, with a smooth graph up to about four hours, making it act as if the light was regulated. Since the performance with the E2 is so great, I haven't tried the Oxyride yet but I'd be real curious to see if it's brighter than the Lithium. If so, I'll pop in the Oxyride for sure, runtime be damned!


----------



## cave dave (Oct 12, 2005)

carlsjrman said:


> thanks for the info. in your opinion, how does the L1 v2.0 compare to the L1P v.2.5? and how do you like the silver color compared the black haIII?


I like the silver color better, easier to find and the inevitable scratches don't show.

There is always a bit of Luxeon lottery going on, but my premium 2.5 blows the 2.0(non premium) out of the water. My L1P2.5 has a whiter light and by the naked eye seems twice as bright, most noticable in the spill light. 
The reflector seems the same, some small concentric rings. 

The silver model has a looser fit in the threads. The HAIII anodizing on the black might be thicker or something. This allows easier momentary on mode by unscrewing a bit while on, but also makes it harder to lock out. The looser threads feels alot like the Xnova AA. Both have well centered LEDs, but the switch in the 2.0 is off center. You can't tell unless you open it though.

If I didn't have a premium to compare it against the L1 2.0 would still rock, so it might be good for gifts. I'd say the Premium is well worth the extra money for yourself though.

I hesitate to comment on runtime because my batteries might be screwed up , (2 of 4 were bad) but after about 2.2 hrs the 2.0 became brighter, and may had fairly useable light for another 20 min or so. By that time both were obviously due for a battery change. However I let the 2.0 go for about 3.3 hrs before it became dimmer than a dorcy and I stopped the test.

The 2.0 ran cooler the whole time of course but the 2.5 never became uncomfortable to hold.


----------



## UnknownVT (Oct 13, 2005)

*cave dave* wrote: _"and added some silicone grease on the battery tube end."_

I think Silicone Grease is supposed to be dielectric - 
ie: does NOT conduct electricity. 

Since the electrical contact is made with the body tube ends - 
this might not be such a good thing.


----------



## BillG (Oct 14, 2005)

*Thanks UVT*

thanks UVT!! 

now i know why my l1p is not working too well!

i had silicone grease on my threads....now i took it off.

lets see if it works better now


----------



## Archangel (Oct 14, 2005)

*Re: Thanks UVT*

BillG,

I'm curious if you notice a difference, because i have stuff i got from Lighthound - i forget the name - on all three Fenix and haven't had any issues.


----------



## UnknownVT (Oct 14, 2005)

*Re: Thanks UVT*

*BillG* wrote: _"now i know why my l1p is not working too well!_
_i had silicone grease on my threads....now i took it off._
_lets see if it works better now"_

Silicone grease on the threads (and the O-ring) should be OK - probably a good thing - as the threads on the Fenix L1(P) are anodized so do NOT conduct electricity anyway - it's the body tube ends - which are bare aluminum - that make the electrical contact.

Minimal silicone grease (a very fine film) should be OK even on the tube ends - since lots and lots of people lube their ArcAAA and Infinity Ultras with the stuff, and both these lights do make electrical contact via their threads - 
just don't use lots.

Making sure the switch assembly is tightly screwed down probably will have more effect than cleaning grease off the threads - 
unless you used enough to deep fry a whole turkey.......


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## Stainless (Oct 15, 2005)

Just a reminder to those who are planning to use these as gifts - five of the six flats are blank...






Ok, someone please tell me what i did wrong in trying to post the photo.


Thanks for the help guys!!

BTW: This is NOT the HA model - I was afraid that the engraving tool might not penetrate properly.


----------



## Haesslich (Oct 15, 2005)

Just type IMG and /IMG in the tags - you've got \image in there now, which messes up the tag.


----------



## ernsanada (Oct 15, 2005)

Stainless, I re-posted your picture for you. 

All you need to do is put




in the back.


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## Stainless (Oct 15, 2005)

Thanks for the help guys!

BTW: This was NOT an HA treated model - I don't know if a standard engraving process would work with HA.


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## Haesslich (Oct 17, 2005)

Just got mine - I like the ergonomics of it - it's not too thick, and the extra flats on it help the gripping of the light, while the curves at the front and back make it fit almost perfectly in my hand. On a freshly charged (albeit older) NiMH, it has similar output to a good Q-III, with a wider corona and smaller hotspot. While the Q-III is a shade brighter, I intend to test this again with a Lithium AA to see if it stays the same or not. 

A little bit of silicone grease on the lower half of the threads and on the o-ring helps the machining along a bit - it's pretty smooth as is, and the threads don't feel 'loose' at all, but if you unscrew it JUST a tad, you can jury-rig the 'momentary' switch others have reported by leaving the switch 'on', which is useful for momentary switch fans. Plus, the spring itself appears gold-coated, and the insides look fairly 'finished' save for the two obvious solder blobs at the base of the head. 

And yes, the lens is definitely AR-coated - it's the same tint as the coating on my Lionheart.  Nice little touch. I'm not feeling underwhelmed by the light yet, and for the price I paid it's a bargain - the new Q-III as it were.

Incidentally, at least inside, the Fenix L1P compares favorably with the brightness of a Lionheart at Level 3 in UI1, or thereabouts - it gets massacred at Level 5, but the hotspot and corona are similar in size at the aforementioned level. The Aleph3 combo I have murders it on high (again), but at low they're similar... with a far better corona and larger hotspot on the Aleph, which is no surprise, but it's not bad for a single AA-cell powered light.


----------



## rdshores (Oct 21, 2005)

Doesn't the regulation on the Fenix runtime chart below look pretty poor??? There doesn't seem to be much regulation, only voltage boost. Can some of the electronic whiz guys comment on this.


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## greenlight (Oct 21, 2005)

looks like the L1pv2 is the one to get.


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## joema (Oct 21, 2005)

rdshores said:


> Doesn't the regulation on the Fenix runtime chart below look pretty poor??? There doesn't seem to be much regulation, only voltage boost. Can some of the electronic whiz guys comment on this...


If you want to see poor regulation look at the Maglite discharge curves:

http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/maglite_3d.htm

The Fenix does have boost regulation, aka semi-regulated. However this is effective. Sometimes more sophisticated fully regulated lights have poorer discharge curves than the Fenix, e.g. the Surefire L2, which hit 50% in about 30 min:

http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/surefire_l2.htm

It's true a few particularly well-designed regulation systems produce almost ruler-flat output, such as the HDS. However these are a lot more expensive, and the Fenix actually looks pretty good compared to most, esp with a lithium AA.

There's no free lunch. Adopting more sophisticated buck/boost regulation typically entails an efficiency hit, even more for current regulation. There are ways to compensate, but they entail increased complexity.

The Fenix is an extremely efficient light with a low price. In lumen hrs per watt hr it is probably 3x as efficient as a Longbow Micra or Peak Caribbean, which is why it runs so cool. The straightforward boost-only regulation is probably one reason for that efficiency.


----------



## Phaserburn (Oct 21, 2005)

I've noticed I've been using my Fenix as a real workhorse over other lights; around the house, EDCing, tasklight and candlemode. But, it's not just in it's form factor, output, beam and build quality. And it's not because it's new.

For me, in addition to those obviously good qualities, the Fenix:


*Doesn't get hot*
Runs for a couple hours at a time without affecting #1
Uses nimh AA cells without significant sacrifice
Has a clickie
These qualities all make me pick up, use and carry my Fenix over many other lights. The above points, in conjuction with it's standard features, make this light unique. Have any of you noticed the same things?


----------



## Solstice (Oct 21, 2005)

greenlight said:


> looks like the L1pv2 is the one to get.



Wow- I hadn't seen jtice's graph with the v2.5 included. Man, that is pretty lame. The brightness is virtually exactly the same for the duration of regulated output, but the 2.5 drops off WAY before the 2.0 does. I'm glad I still have my 2.0- my 2.5 has nicer tint, but if the runtime is going to look like this, the 2.0 is the one I'll use.


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## onthebeam (Oct 21, 2005)

Phaserburn said:


> I've noticed I've been using my Fenix as a real workhorse over other lights; around the house, EDCing, tasklight and candlemode. But, it's not just in it's form factor, output, beam and build quality. And it's not because it's new.
> 
> For me, in addition to those obviously good qualities, the Fenix:
> 
> ...



Yep, that's why I love it, too. Hope they work out the tailswitch issues. Too many problems so let's hope it's a one time manufacturing glitch. It's a sweet light. 

Is anyone doing two stage mods yet? Funny, since it's been out for a few weeks now, I'm surprised people aren't writing here about two stage successes. . .


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## Quickbeam (Oct 22, 2005)

Good news, everyone!

Fenix has made contact with me and should be sending a pair of L1P for review.

Doug P.
FlashlightReviews.com


----------



## redduck (Oct 22, 2005)

Can't wait to see the overall output numbers. I bet they'll send you the brightest pair of the lot.


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## 4sevens (Oct 22, 2005)

I have just been informed that all of the issues that we are facing here
will be addressed in the next few batches. I have given the fenix
manufacturers lots of feedback concerning all the issues from the groupbuy. 
They are aware of them and have worked hard to resolve them. By the way,
I have a huge batch coming that I'll sell on BST  Imagine quantity in 4 digits!!


----------



## cratz2 (Oct 22, 2005)

So... with all this talk of huge batches coming...

Any chance there will be any non-black L1+ lights? I have a black L1P v2.5 on the way but would like a different colored sibling if possible. If you will have some L1+, how much will they be shipped in the US?

Also, maybe I've missed it, but is there a revision 2.5 on the L1+ lights or just the L1P? If so, what's the difference? 

Thanks for all your help and always going above and beyond!


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## Lunal_Tic (Oct 22, 2005)

4sevens,

Is the reverse clickie considered an "issue" to be addressed :devil:

-LT


----------



## bucken (Oct 22, 2005)

4sevens,
Will any of that batch be available in time for delivery by Christmas?


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## 4sevens (Oct 22, 2005)

bucken said:


> 4sevens,
> Will any of that batch be available in time for delivery by Christmas?



Oh yes. I've only ordered L1P v2.5's.

LT: no, reverse clickie is not a defect. I did make a request though.


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## Haesslich (Oct 23, 2005)

Any hints as to what they're fixing in the batches? I think I want a second and a third, and some spares for gifts, now.  

Incidentally, anyone else look at their Fenix and think the reflector edges are a tad chipped? It doesn't affect the output, but the edges of the reflector where it meets the area by the lens have what almost appear to be chips in them, or else the lens itself is a bit damaged.


----------



## Archangel (Oct 23, 2005)

A thousand and not a single silver? Man, no fair.


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## Haesslich (Oct 23, 2005)

cratz2 said:


> So... with all this talk of huge batches coming...
> 
> Any chance there will be any non-black L1+ lights? I have a black L1P v2.5 on the way but would like a different colored sibling if possible. If you will have some L1+, how much will they be shipped in the US?
> 
> ...



Given that the L1+ was a limited edition thing, from what I recall, and is no longer in production... I doubt he'll have any of those in stock.  They were superceded by the L1 2.0 and 2.5, IIRC.


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## onthebeam (Oct 23, 2005)

Haesslich said:


> Incidentally, anyone else look at their Fenix and think the reflector edges are a tad chipped? It doesn't affect the output, but the edges of the reflector where it meets the area by the lens have what almost appear to be chips in them, or else the lens itself is a bit damaged.



Yes, my reflector edges are a bit rough, too. But no beam problems. Really have to stare at it to find the flaw.


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## cratz2 (Oct 23, 2005)

Haesslich said:


> Given that the L1+ was a limited edition thing, from what I recall, and is no longer in production... I doubt he'll have any of those in stock.  They were superceded by the L1 2.0 and 2.5, IIRC.



Ahhh... so, are any L1 2.5s coming down the pike?

I'm sure I'll almost always carry the L1P 2.5 for brightness, but in true CPF fashion, I'd like to have a similar yet different light and I'd prefer something other than black for the 'other' one.

Also, what are the differences between the L1 2.0 and L1 2.5?


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## bucken (Oct 27, 2005)

4sevens said:


> By the way,
> I have a huge batch coming that I'll sell on BST  Imagine quantity in 4 digits!!



4sevens,

Will you still be good for this buy before Christmas? I noticed that another recent group buy kind of fell through.


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## 4sevens (Oct 27, 2005)

bucken said:


> 4sevens,
> 
> Will you still be good for this buy before Christmas? I noticed that another recent group buy kind of fell through.



Yes, there will be plenty for the season  I'm waiting for them to arrive
before I post to make them available. These will be shipped with delivery 
confirmation from the US to minimize the order to delivery time.

Please hold your questions until then. 
Let's resume this thread on "impressions"  :thumbsup:


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## pizzaman (Nov 2, 2005)

Mine just arrived!!!

What an amazing looking flashlight. I carefully removed the bottom cap and inserted a fresh AA. I gently clicked the switch.... and clicked.... and clicked...NO JOY!!!






I checked the switch for looseness. Nope, snug. Turning this baby around I snugged up the head.... Eureka!!!





Wow! Bright! White! Hotspot! Spill! Small! AA batts! Sexy!!!

I am in love. My quest for an EDC has ended (for now).

I can't wait to get my ARC-P AAA (on the perpetual waiting list), to create my ultimate personal photon arsenal. 

Arc on the keychain.
Fenix in the pocket.
A2 on the belt.
Flashlight heaven





TR (I get it now).


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## Ben H (Nov 7, 2005)

Just got mine today. All I can say is thanks Fenix! This flashlight is just right. Sure there could be improvements, but for $50 I am very satisfied. I've heard several people say this is their new go-to light and I would have to agree. It's small, bright, cheap to power, durable, waterproof, and only $50. Well done Fenix!


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## TOB9595 (Nov 7, 2005)

I've had the Fenix L1, V2.5 for a couple of days.
WOW!!!!!
What a light.
I would only wish for a clip and anti roll edges...
BUT PERFECT!...
Here's a bunch of light beam pics including the Fenix at distance.
Tom


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## Jayman (Nov 11, 2005)

Finally received my long awaited Fenix! Now I can experience first hand what I've been reading about for the past few weeks. First impression is that it looks like a cross between the Inova T1 and Inova X5. Mainly the knurling on the tailcap is similar to the T1's and the flat sides are like the X5's. I'd say that on alkalines it's about as bright as my Q3 running on standard 123 cells, and it has a wider spillbeam and smaller and more defined hotspot. Fit and finish are top notch and so far none of the minor glitches that I've read about have cropped up. All in all a terrific light that I'll be giving as gifts this Christmas season.


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## Robocop (Nov 11, 2005)

Between myself and fellow member Owen we now have 4 total of the Fenix LIP v2.5 lights. I can say these are very consistent lights with all being very bright and having artifact free beams. Fenix has made the must have light of the year and I am very impressed with this first offering by them. Makes me wonder if they plan to make a 3 watt or even other versions such as a 123 powered light. If they do something tells me that all others will have some major competition as these guys seem to know what they are doing as far as lights go.
I noticed that the tolerances of these lights is very well done and sometimes even a small bit of looseness will keep the light from working. Mine did not fire the first time and I simply tightened the head a small bit and it has worked perfect ever since.
I honestly thought all the hype was just wishful thinking and no way was this little AA light going to be as bright as my QIII....man was I suprised as it is actually a close contest between the two lights with the QIII using a standard 123 cell.
I can only imagine that Fenix has developed a following already as this light is truly one of the best new products I have seen in a long time. Thanks to Fenix for raising the bar ever higher and the future looks good for this company.
I was able to remove the internals from both of mine as I simply wished to have easy access for future changes. These were very hard to take apart however once loose they can be opened at will however I really do not see any reason to change them. I would like to have the option of swapping out the factory circuit any time I wish as I feel there will be many who make future mods for this light. 
The reflector is very well done and I have played around with it using other luxeons and circuits. I have a FF2 with a TXOJ sandwich and this reflector looks better using that sandwich than it does with the IMS reflector. I also placed it on my 3 watt Pelican M3 and once again it looked incredible.
All in all I feel this light to be one of the better bargains I have purchased recently and I look forward to future offerings from Fenix. I think the consistency of the QIIIs performance,as well as cost, was one of the things that made it stand out from the others. The Fenix has duplicated that performance and has gave us all an incredible performer at a fair cost....what else could anyone ask for in a light?....great job Fenix

On a side not does anyone feel that Fenix will follow with other versions of lights? I would like to see what they can do with the AAA size light and also maybe a CR2 or the ever popular 123 cell.


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## freedom (Nov 11, 2005)

I love my L1P. Everything is great including brightness, size, battery type and coating, etc. It would be even better if the reflector is made perfectly smooth and the contact surfaces are clean. I foundd my light dimmed without obvious reason first and later confirmed to be having dirty contact surfaces between the different parts.


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## cognitivefun (Nov 11, 2005)

I can't believe how bright mine is and the beam is perfect. What throw...


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## jollytoker420 (Nov 13, 2005)

I just got my L1P today. Love it. It has a doughnut hole in the middle. I know this is common with the 5w luxeon.... 
It shows up within 4".

Anyone else have this?

I have read quite a few posts so far but nothing but perfect beams.

Thanks


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## NotEnoughLight (Nov 13, 2005)

5W? Did fenix come up with a new model? The one i had is only a R bin lux 1.


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## amlim (Nov 13, 2005)

NotEnoughLight said:


> 5W? Did fenix come up with a new model? The one i had is only a R bin lux 1.


 
i think jollytoker420 is using a 5W's beam as a comparison.


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## NotEnoughLight (Nov 13, 2005)

stupid me....


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## joema (Nov 13, 2005)

jollytoker420 said:


> I just got my L1P today...has a doughnut hole...within 4"...


Many lights have doughnut patterns at extremely close ranges. My Peak Caribbean does at 1", and even my HDS does at 1/2". My L1P did at a few inches. 

This isn't really an issue since you normally don't use a 30+ lumen light a few inches from target -- it's just too bright.

By contrast the doughnut pattern on my U2 was severe and obvious even at 30 feet distance.


----------



## joema (Nov 13, 2005)

A related item: in this thread are beam patterns of 7 Fenixs side-by-side. 

Interestingly at extremely close range there is significant unit-to-unit variation in the doughnut pattern, but this apparently fades out after a few more inches range.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=98107


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## James S (Nov 13, 2005)

well I broke down and ordered one today. I haven't bought a new flashlight in a while  so I'll have some first impressions next week sometime, it sure doesn't sound like I'll be disappointed.


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## jollytoker420 (Nov 13, 2005)

joema said:


> This isn't really an issue since you normally don't use a 30+ lumen light a few inches from target -- it's just too bright.




Actually, I don't know if anyone else has done this but I have used my L2 and QIII to "cheat" at the dark side. Burger King had those scratch off game pieces to win free food, well LED light would show me the text. 75W halogen, fluorescent, 60w incandescent, etc wouldn’t help. I "won" every time. That is an example of using 100 lumens up close and personal to do my dirty work! 

Thanks for the link. I haven't seen that one. 

I was just making sure that I didn't have a defective model. I wasn't aware of the doughnut pattern in less than 5w. I have a 0.5w RR headlight that really doesn't have it. This is my first Lux1. It is an amazing light!!

Thanks again guys!


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## Kevin K (Nov 17, 2005)

Just got mine today, very nice. Great hotspot, good sidespill. Very white with a very tiny bit of blue tint. The machining looks very good. The circular rings around the reflector are there but I can't see them unless I use a magnifying glass. No dust at all on lens or reflector. Thanks 4sevens.:wow:


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## MillerMods (Nov 22, 2005)

I think the Fenix L1 would be great with a AA 3.7V Li-ion and a 5 watt Luxeon. It can be done, because I have the circuit that will do it. half an hour run time per charge. Slightly underdriven for most of the runtime.


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## 4sevens (Nov 22, 2005)

MillerMods said:


> I think the Fenix L1 would be great with a AA 3.7V Li-ion and a 5 watt Luxeon. It can be done, because I have the circuit that will do it. half an hour run time per charge. Slightly underdriven for most of the runtime.



Thats not really practical due to overheating problems plus the short
runtime.

Whats more practical is the AA li-ion with a wiz2 driving at 520mah.
A 750mah cell runs flat full regulation for 1 hour 45 minutes. My fenix
gets warm but not too hot to pickup.


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## MillerMods (Nov 23, 2005)

Hot it will get. I am leaning more to the 3 watt thought now. You are very persuasive you know.  I have found the circuit was easier to design to step up to 7 volts than trying to regulate the current at such a small step up / step down (3.0 to 4.2) to drive a 3 watt luxeon. What is this circuit you speak of? I am very interested, I would like one, do you make them / sell them?


----------



## paulr (Nov 23, 2005)

I just got mine. Overall grade 4 stars from 5, good value, I will buy a few more. Remarks:

1) It was a big pain in the neck to get the lanyard through the two holes. I ended up prying out the switch boot in order to more easily push the lanyard through the 2nd hole from the inside with a SAK tweezer. Then I had to take the switch apart to get the boot back in. I guess disassembling the switch is the right way to change the boot, too.

2) I did have some contact problems with either the switch or the head end. Disassembling/reassembling/tightening stuff fixed it. I notice the + contact is just a circle on a PC board, not even a solder bump. I will probably add a contact disc. I wonder how reliable the switch will be after it's been used for a while. It doesn't seem like that great a switch.

3) I don't have any clue how to get the head apart but for now I don't have a big desire to do that. Short of completely replacing the electronics I don't see what improvements are worth making.

4) Beam is nice, spill is nice but could be a bit wider. Color is neutral, maybe slightly blue. Donut hole is gone once the light is a few inches from the wall.

5) The finish doesn't seem ultra durable. The box indicates there's a silver version made and I think I'd like to buy that version for xmas gifts.

6) The light comes with spare O-rings and switch boot. That's thoughtful of the manufacturer but who's going to remember where they're stored by the time they're needed? With this talk of 50,000 hour LED's eliminating bulb replacements, manufacturers should look for ways to make lights that don't need any other maintenance parts either. 

7) The gift box packaging isn't bad but doesn't scream quality the way that Longbow packaging did. 

8) Actually this light is in some ways what a Longbow should have been, and I'd like to see a Longbow version (better construction and packaging, at higher price if needed).

9) Light has been running (on NiMH) for about 9 minutes in front of me and is only very slightly warm, compared with Arc LS which was quite warm after running this long at about the same power level(?). I think the LED and thermal system could handle more power. The limiting factor is probably what you can draw from an alkaline AA cell for any length of time. But I'd like for this thing to have tighter regulation (different electronics) to keep running at full power on an alkaline AA for longer. It's ok if it kills the cell in 1 hour, especially if there's a 2 stage switch that allows still getting some operation on low power afterwards.

10) after 15 minutes total the light has warmed up a bit more, still not much.

11) I'm not that crazy about the digicam lanyard and I'd have preferred a different lanyard setup, I'm not sure what's ideal.

Overall this is a terrific form factor and it's amazing that other lights haven't used it. The execution is pretty good but I'd like to see some better ones.


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## Quickbeam (Nov 23, 2005)

FYI - I have posted my review of the L1p 2.5 on my site. No problems with the switch at all, although I did mention it since so many folks here seem to have had an issue.

Doug P.


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## Mike abcd (Nov 23, 2005)

Nice review as always. Your site has helped this newbie a LOT and is deeply appreciated!

That alkaline run time graph is pretty ugly and might put some folks off without reason. It behaves a LOT nicer on 2500 mAH NiMH although you have to be careful to avoid over discharging them.

I realize it would increase the review effort a lot but it would be very helpful to see NiMH curves on some of the lights you review or comments on 3rd party runtime results. However, even without them, your reviews are consistently the best I've found with rare exceptions on individual lights.

Mike


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## Xygen (Nov 23, 2005)

Yes, very nice review. And not affected by the hype here at CPF.
I hoped for NiMh an lithium runtimeplots too. But ok....

I just discharged my first NiMh (only a 1400mAh) with my Fenix L1P. When output dropped noticeable, I took the battery out and put it in my cpu-charger to check the remaining capacity. It had 1.06V while discharging at 100mA. It had only 23.5mAh left till 0.9V.

Just wanted to tell you guys. When output drops, the NiMh is almost drained!


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## Roy (Nov 23, 2005)

My runtime plots are nearby here in the Reviews Forum....lithium plot included.


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## Quickbeam (Nov 23, 2005)

Thanks, Roy! I'll probably do a runtime tomorrow anyway with a 2300 NiMH and a Lithium as well.


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## paulr (Nov 23, 2005)

I ran my L1P with a 2500 mAH Sanyo cell til it got dim (still putting out more light than an Arc AA). That took around 2.5 hours. I then put the cell on a Lacrosse BC900 and the initial voltage was something like 0.87 volts! I'd like to see a long runtime test with an alkaline battery and maybe I'll do one. That is, see if it's still putting out usable light after, say, 5 hours, 10 hours, etc.


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## Archangel (Nov 24, 2005)

Mike abcd said:


> That alkaline run time graph is pretty ugly and might put some folks off without reason. It behaves a LOT nicer on 2500 mAH NiMH although you have to be careful to avoid over discharging them.


I don't agree with the "without reason" part. People should definitely be aware that the light needs NiMH or lithium to get close to spec.


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## BentHeadTX (Nov 24, 2005)

The graph is pretty ugly with alkalines but great with NiMH. 

This creates a bit of a quandry when recommending the Fenix to "non-flashohalics". Most people I know do not use flashlights on a regular basis and if they do have NiMH batteries, it is generally just enough to run their cameras, wireless keyboards, mice etc. They will scream if they see the price of lithium AA batteries and end up feeding the L1P alkalines. 

For flashaholics and folks that religously use NiMH batteries, it is a no brainer. For most people that use alkalines, it is a toss up. Maybe if the 2.0 was still available, I would be more inclinded to buy them as gifts.


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## 4sevens (Nov 24, 2005)

BentHeadTX said:


> The graph is pretty ugly with alkalines but great with NiMH.
> 
> This creates a bit of a quandry when recommending the Fenix to "non-flashohalics". Most people I know do not use flashlights on a regular basis and if they do have NiMH batteries, it is generally just enough to run their cameras, wireless keyboards, mice etc. They will scream if they see the price of lithium AA batteries and end up feeding the L1P alkalines.
> 
> For flashaholics and folks that religously use NiMH batteries, it is a no brainer. For most people that use alkalines, it is a toss up. Maybe if the 2.0 was still available, I would be more inclinded to buy them as gifts.



I don't completely agree with that. I've had non-flashaholic get quite
upset that a light (fully regulated) would just stop all of a sudden. He
prefered some kind of warning like a gradual dimming to warn him. I
tried and tried to explain to him the advantages of a constant output
but to no avail. I think the gentle sloping with alkalines is fine for
non flashaholics. Even at 25%, the fenix is still very usuable.


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## Solstice (Nov 24, 2005)

The graph on alkalines is fugly to us flashaholics here, but it wouldn't mean much to an average joe just looking for a small high quality AA light. Compared to the hidious beam of your average minimag, or the "blue/white" flood of a cheap 5mm LED based light, the Fenix is already a giant step ahead.

Remember, brightness perception is logarithmic and the Fenix puts out good light (better than the highly venerated Infinity Ultra) even on standard alks for quite some time. It may not be the brightest it could be, but that's not the point. Similarly, I'd expect that non-flashaholics would be just as happy with the L1 version as the difference in brightness is only really noticeable when comparing the lights side by side (only something we flashaholics tend to do )


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## 4sevens (Nov 24, 2005)

Take for example jtice's awesome graph:






Considering an arc aaa is about 40 lux and the infinity is about
the same... on Alkalines, the fenix would be at that level of brightness
after about 260 minutes.


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## Mike abcd (Nov 24, 2005)

4sevens said:


> Take for example jtice's awesome graph:
> ...
> 
> Considering an arc aaa is about 40 lux and the infinity is about
> ...



Good point although it's more like 180 minutes for the V2.5.


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